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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2011  with  funding  from 

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FEDERAL  WORKS  AGENCY 
WORK  PROJECTS  ADMINISTRATION 

F.  C.  Harrington,  Commissioner 

Florence  Kerr,  Assistant  Commissioner 

Henry  G.  Alsberg,  Director  of  the  Federal  Writers'  Project 


American  Guide  Series 

NORTH  CAROLINA 

A  Guide  to  the  Old  North  State 


Compiled  and  Written  by 

THE     FEDERAL     WRITERS'     PROJECT    OF     THE 

FEDERAL    WORKS    AGENCY 

WORK    PROJECTS    ADMINISTRATION 

for  the  State  of  North  Carolina 
Sponsored  by 

NORTH    CAROLINA    DEPARTMENT    OF    CONSERVATION 
AND  DEVELOPMENT 


The  University  of  North  Carolina  Press 

CHAPEL   HILL    "    MCMXXXIX 


FIRST  PUBLISHED  IN  1939 


9/7.  SL 


''3 

aRCH  £ 

NE  ARTS? 


0 


COPYRIGHT,  1939,  BY  THE  NORTH  CAROLINA  DEPARTMENT 
OF  CONSERVATION  AND  DEVELOPMENT 

MANUFACTURED  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA 


All  rights  are  reserved,  including  the  rights  to  reproduce 
this  book  or  parts  thereof  in  any  form. 


STATE   OF    NORTH    CAROLINA 

GOVERNORS    OFFICE 

RALEIGH 

Clyde   R.  Hoey 

GOVERNOR 

I  am  pleased,  on  behalf  of  the  State,  to 
present  THE  NCRTH  CAROLINA.  GUIDE,  which  has  been 
prepared  by  Federal  Writers*  Project  of  the  Works 
Progress  Administration. 

This  Guide  presents  a  complete  view  of  the 
State,  her  people,  the  historical  background,  and 
a  complete  inventory  of  the  resources  of  North 
Carolina,  all  compiled  in  one  volume.   Many  of 
the  facts  presented  here  are  not  obtainable  else- 
where in  book  form. 

The  procedure  employed  in  the  collection  of 
data  for  this  publication,  its  selection  and  the 
evaluation  of  the  materials  to  be  used,  and  the 
preparation  of  manuscript  through  a  wide-spread 
force  with  varying  degrees  of  experience  and  ca- 
pacities, place  this  volume  and  others  in  the 
national  series  in  a  class  by  themselves. 

As  a  result  of  these  efforts  there  has  come 
a  comprehensive  product  portraying  the  character- 
istics of  the  people  of  one  of  the  greatest  of 
the  American  States,  with  liberal  references  to 
their  historical  heritages  and  the  resources  up- 
on which  they  have  relied  in  building  a  Common- 
wealth which  is  as  outstanding  as  it  is  American 
in  ideals  and  purposes. 


h 


^ 


Numerous  personal  anecdotes  and  sidelights 
of  history  have  been  uncovered  by  research  work- 
ers of  the  project  and  should  add  materially  to 
the  reader's  interest. 


STATE   OF    NORTH    CAROLINA 

GOVERNORS    OFFICE 

RALEIGH 


Clyde   R.  Hoey 

GOVERNOR 


The  people  of  North  Carolina  have  a  great 
history  and  tradition,  and  those  of  today  are 
serving  the  State  in  all  walks  of  life  in  a  mag- 
nificent way  and  making  a  real  contribution  to 
the  fame  and  prestige  of  this  Commonwealth. 

North  Carolina  has  made  phenomenal  progress 
notwithstanding  many  handicaps  during  the  past 
forty  years,  and  the  State  has  come  a  long  way. 
There  is  yet  much  to  be  done.   There  is  a  will 
and  purpose  on  the  part  of  her  people  to  work  out 
the  destiny  of  this  State  in  harmony  with  her 
ideals  of  government  and  conceptions  of  public 
service . 

North  Carolinians  who  would  know  more  of 
their  State  will  find  a  medium  of  acquiring  such 
knowledge  in  this  volume,  and  the  outside  travel- 
er within  her  borders  or  interested  in  investi- 
gating more  fully  the  resources  and  future  of  the 
State  will  find  THE  NORTH  CAROLINA  GUIDE  a  store- 
house of  information  and  a  ready  reference 
source.   I  commend  this  volume  and  congratulate 
those  who  are  responsible  for  its  production. 


jspectfully  submitted, 


July  20,  1939. 


PREFACE 


EXTENDING  FROM  the  sand  bars  along  the  Atlantic  to  the  crest 
of  the  Great  Smokies,  North  Carolina  offers  a  variety  of  pleas- 
ing or  impressive  scenery,  and  to  the  geologist,  the  botanist,  the  biol- 
ogist, and  the  folklorist  an  unusual  field  for  study.  The  State  has  an 
abundance  of  historic  associations  that  form  an  integral  part  of  the 
national  background.  Through  its  development  in  a  few  decades  to  a 
position  in  1937  as  the  fourth  largest  contributor  of  revenue  to  the  United 
States  Treasury  (owing  chiefly  to  the  tobacco  tax),  it  draws  the  atten- 
tion of  the  economist.  In  plain,  foothill,  and  forested  mountain,  the 
hunter  or  the  fisherman,  the  hiker  or  the  leisurely  traveler  may  find  his 
heart's  desire.  A  good  highway  system  makes  the  way  easy  to  any  nook 
or  corner. 

In  the  preservation  and  publication  of  its  historical  records,  North 
Carolina  has  taken  an  advanced  position.  Its  political,  military,  and 
social  events  have  been  treated  in  histories  of  undisputed  value.  Lately 
a  number  of  excellent  works  dealing  with  its  natural  resources  and 
economic  development  have  been  published  either  by  the  State  itself 
or  by  the  University  of  North  Carolina  Press.  But  among  these  publi- 
cations no  single  convenient  volume  gives  a  coordinated  picture  of  the 
State  in  all  its  aspects  of  the  past  and  present.  It  is  such  a  picture  that 
this  guidebook  aims  to  present. 

The  Federal  Writers'  Project  of  North  Carolina  was  started  in  Oc- 
tober 1935,  with  headquarters  at  Asheville,  and  district  offices  were 
established  later  in  seven  ether  cities  of  the  State.  The  project  was 
primarily  designed  to  provide  work  for  unemployed  writers,  journalists, 
and  research  workers.  Little  by  little — from  books  and  periodicals,  from 
chambers  of  commerce  and  State  departments,  out  of  the  memories  of 
kindly  disposed  individuals,  and  by  actual  travel  over  all  the  main  high- 
ways— the  workers  collected  and  sent  to  State  headquarters  between 


PREFACE 


one  and  two  million  words  of  roughly  transcribed  source  material. 

By  a  long  and  arduous  process  of  sifting,  elimination,  and  condensa- 
tion, this  enormous  mass  of  material  was  gradually  reduced  to  the  de- 
sired essentials.  Then  followed  the  no  less  difficult  task  of  arrangement, 
formulation,  revision,  and  thorough  checking  for  accuracy.  Out  of  all 
this  cooperative  effort  has  emerged  the  present  volume. 

Those  engaged  in  this  task  could  not  have  hoped  for  success  without 
the  assistance  generously  granted  them  by  State  and  Federal  depart- 
ments, State  and  city  officials,  chambers  of  commerce,  county  historians, 
officials  of  the  National  Park  Service  and  the  United  States  Forest  Serv- 
ice, and  public-spirited  citizens  in  many  communities.  To  name  all  of 
the  hundreds  of  volunteer  consultants  would  take  many  pages,  but  at 
least  a  few  among  those  who  have  rendered  exceptionally  valuable  assist- 
ance must  be  mentioned.  Of  consultants  connected  with  the  University 
of  North  Carolina,  the  list  includes:  W.  C.  Coker,  Professor  of  Botany; 
H.  M.  Douty,  Assistant  Professor  of  Economics,  Woman's  College;  Sam- 
uel H.  Hobbs,  Jr.,  Professor  of  Rural  Economics;  Guy  B.  Johnson, 
Research  Associate;  Hugh  T.  Lefler,  Professor  of  History;  Gerald  Mac- 
Carthy,  Assistant  Professor  of  Geology;  Z.  P.  Metcalf,  Professor  of  Ento- 
mology, State  College  of  Agriculture  and  Engineering;  Miss  Blanche 
Tansil,  Associate  Professor  of  Institutional  Management,  Woman's  Col- 
lege; B.  W.  Wells,  Professor  of  Botany,  State  College  of  Agriculture  and 
Engineering;  and  W.  A.  White,  Assistant  Professor  of  Geology.  The 
editors  are  also  particularly  grateful  to:  C.  K.  Brown,  Professor  of  Eco- 
nomics, Davidson  College;  H.  J.  Bryson,  State  Geologist;  C.  C.  Crit- 
tenden, Secretary  of  the  North  Carolina  Historical  Commission;  Jona- 
than Daniels,  Editor  of  the  Raleigh  News  and  Observer;  Richard  Dillard 
Dixon,  Clerk  of  the  Superior  Court,  Chowan  County,  Edenton;  Miss 
Adelaide  L.  Fries,  Historian  of  the  Moravian  Church,  Winston-Salem; 
Mrs.  Elizabeth  Lay  Green,  Chapel  Hill;  Miss  Louise  Hall,  Professor  of 
Fine  Arts,  Duke  University;  J.  S.  Holmes,  State  Forester;  Mrs.  Guion 
Griffis  Johnson,  Chapel  Hill;  Paul  Kelly,  Assistant  Director,  Depart- 
ment of  Conservation  and  Development;  and  Coleman  W.  Roberts, 
President  of  the  Carolina  Motor  Club. 

Edwin  Bjorkman,  State  Director 
W.  C.  Hendricks,  State  Editor 


CONTENTS 


?AGE 

FOREWORD    BY    GOVERNOR    HOEY  V 

PREFACE  :  STATE  DIRECTOR,  FEDERAL  WRITERS'  PROJECT  vii 

LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS  XV 

LIST    OF    MAPS  xix 

GENERAL    INFORMATION  Xxiii 

CALENDAR    OF    EVENTS  Xxix 

PART    I.      GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

Tar   Heels   All  —  by  Jonathan  daniels  3 

Natural   Setting:  8 
Physiography;  Climate;  Flora;  Fauna;  Natural  Resources 

The  Indians  25 

History:  31 
First  Settlements;  Proprietary  Regime;  The  Royal  Period;  Revolu- 
tion and  Independence;  Ante-Bellum  Days;  War  between  the  States 
and  Reconstruction;  Recovery  and  Progress 

The   Negroes  51 

Agriculture  ^8 

Modes  of  Travel  64 

Industry   and   Labor  71 

Public   Education  79 

Religion  84 

Sports   and    Recreation  90 

Folkways   and   Folklore  94 

Eating    and   Drinking  ioi 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

107 


The    Arts: 

Literature;  Theater;  Music;  Painting  and  Sculpture;  Handicrafts 

Architecture  122 


137 
149 


PART    II.      CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

ASHEVILLE 

C  h  apel    Hill 

Charlotte  158 

Durham  169 

Eden  ton  181 

Elizabeth    City  190 

Fayetteville  196 

Greensboro  203 

High    Point  214 

New    Bern  221 

Raleigh  233 

Wilmington  247 

Winston-Salem  258 


PART    III.      TOURS 

tour  1  (Portsmouth,  Va.) — Elizabeth  City — Edenton — Wil- 
liamston  ■ —  Washington  —  New  Bern  —  Wilmington  — 
(Myrtle  Beach,  S.  C.)   (US  17)  275 

Section  a.  Virginia  Line  to  Williamston 
Section  b.  Williamston  to  South  Carolina  Line 

1  a  Elizabeth  City — Kitty  Hawk — Nags  Head — Manteo— Fort 
Raleigh — Oregon  Inlet — Hatteras  Inlet  (State  30,  34,  345)     291 

ib  Elizabeth  City — Weeksville — Halls  Creek  (State  170)        304 

ic  Junction  with  US   17 — Orton — Old   Brunswick — South- 
port  (Old  River  Road)  306 


CONTENTS  XI 


PAGE 


2  Junction  with  US  158 — Tarboro — Kinston — Junction  with 

US  17  (US  258)  309 

3  (Emporia,  Va.) — Rocky  Mount — Fayetteville — Lumber- 
ton — (Florence,  S.  C.)  (US  301)  315 

Section  a.  Virginia  Line  to  Wilson 
Section  b.  Wilson  to  South  Carolina  Line 

3A  Fayetteville — Fort    Bragg — Manchester — Spout    Springs 

(State  24)  326 

4  Junction   with  US  301 — Goldsboro — Warsaw — Junction 
with  US  421  (US  117)  328 

5  Junction  with  US  301 — Clinton — Whiteville — (Conway, 

S.  C.)  (US  701)  334 

5A  Junction  with  US  701 — Old  Dock — Crusoe  Island  (State 
!3°)  338 

6  Junction  with  US  158  —  Nashville  —  Wilson  —  Junction 
with  State  102  (State  58)  340 

7  (South    Hill,    Va.)  —  Henderson  —  Raleigh  —  Southern 
Pines — Rockingham — (Cheraw,  S.  C.)  (US  1)  342 

Section  a.  Virginia  Line  to  Raleigh 
Section  b.  Raleigh  to  South  Carolina  Line 

7A  Southern  Pines — Pinehurst  (State  2)  352 

8  (Clarksville,  Va.)— Oxford— Durham   (US  15)  354 

9  Creedmoor — Raleigh — Fayetteville — Laurinburg —  (Ben- 
nettsville,  S.  C.)  (US  15A,  15)  356 

10  (South  Boston,  Va.) — Roxboro — Durham — Junction  with 

US  1  (US  501)  361 

1 1  (Danville,  Va.)  —  Yancey ville  —  Hillsboro  —  Chapel  Hill 
(State  14)  365 

12  (Danville,    Va.) — Reidsville — Greensboro — Salisbury — 
Charlotte  (US  29,  29A,  29)  372 

13  (Ridgeway,  Va.) — Greensboro — Asheboro — Rockingham 
(US  220)  382 

14  Madison — Winston-Salem — High  Point — Junction  with 

US  220  (US  311)  388 


Xll  CONTENTS 

PACE 

14A  Junction   with   US  311  —  Danbury  —  Piedmont   Springs 

(State  89)  392 

15  (Hillsville,  Va.) — Winston-Salem — Salisbury — Albemarle 
(Cheraw,  S.  C.)   (US  52)  394 

Section  a.  Virginia  Line  to  Lexington 
Section  b.  Salisbury  to  South  Carolina  Line 

16  (Independence,   Va.) — Sparta — Statesville — Charlotte — 
(Chester,  S.  C.)  (US  21)  401 

17  Sparta — Wilkesboro — Taylorsville — Conover    (State    18, 

16)  408 

18  Twin  Oaks — Blowing  Rock — Marion — Rutherfordton — 
(Chesnee,  S.  C.)  (US  221)  412 

19  Blowing  Rock — Hickory — Lincolnton — Gastonia — (York, 

S.  C.)   (US  321)  419 

Section  a.  Blowing  Rock  to  Hickory 
Section  b.  Conover  to  South  Carolina  Line 

19A  Lincolnton — Mount  Holly — Junction  with  US  74  (State 

27)  426 

20  (Elizabethton,  Tenn.) — Elk  Park — Spruce  Pine — Burns- 
ville — Junction  with  US  19-23  (US  19E)  428 

20A  Spruce  Pine — Penland — Bakersville — Sioux  (State  26)  433 

20B  Spruce  Pine — Little  Switzerland — Woodlawn  (State  26)      435 

21  (Erwin,  Tenn.)  —  Asheville  —  Sylva  —  Murphy —  (Blairs- 
ville,  Ga.)  (US  19W,  19)  437 

Section  a.  Tennessee  Line  to  Asheville 
Section  b.  Asheville  to  Georgia  Line 

21  a  Junction  with  US  19 — Mt.  Pisgah — Pink  Beds — Junction 

with  US  64  (Candler  Rd.,  Pisgah  Motor  Rd.,  State  284)     446 

21B  Waynesville — Dellwood — Soco  Gap  (State  284,  293)  449 

21c  Waynesville — Dellwood — Mt.  Sterling — Davenport  Gap 

(State  284)  451 

21D  Sylva — Cullowhee — Tuckaseigee — Cashiers  (State  106)        453 


CONTENTS  Xlll 

PAGE 

21E  Junction  with  US  19 — Cherokee — Newfound  Gap — Gatlin- 
burg,  Tenn. — Maryville,  Tenn. — Tapoco — Robbinsville 
— Topton  (State  107E,  107;  Tenn.  71,  73;  US  129)  455 

22  (Newport,  Tenn.) — Marshall — Asheville — Hendersonville 

— (Greenville,  S.  C.)  (US  70-25,  25)  461 

Section  a.  Tennessee  Line  to  Asheville 
Section  b.  Asheville  to  South  Carolina  Line 

22A  Junction  with  US  70-25 — Devils  Fork  Gap — Junction  with 

US  23-1 9W  (State  208,  212)  467 

22B  Hendersonville  —  Saluda  —  Tryon  —  South  Carolina  Line 

(US  176)  469 

23  Dillsboro — Franklin — (Clayton,  Ga.)  (US  23)  472 

24  (Franklin,  Va.)  —  Murfreesboro  —  Roxboro  —  Winston- 
Salem— Mocksville  (US  158).  474 

Section  a.  Virginia  Line  to  Roxboro 
Section  b.  Roxboro  to  Mocksville 

24A  Warrenton — Louisburg  (State  59)  480 

25  Durham  —  Winston-Salem  —  Wilkesboro  —  (Mountain 
City,  Tenn.)  (US  70;  State  62,  54;  US  421)  482 

26  Fort  Landing  —  Raleigh  —  Hickory  —  Hendersonville  — 
Franklin — (Ducktown,  Tenn.)  (US  64,  70-64,  64)  492 

Section  a.  Fort  Landing  to  Raleigh 
Section  b.  Raleigh  to  Statesville 
Section  c.  Statesville  to  Tennessee  Line 

27  Chocowinity — Greenville — Wilson — Zebulon  (US  264)         511 

28  Durham  —  Raleigh  —  Goldsboro  —  New  Bern  —  Atlantic 
(US  70)  513 

28A  Atlantic — Cedar  Island — Portsmouth — Ocracoke  (Mail  or 

chartered  passenger  boat)  523 

29  Greensboro  —  Sanford  —  Clinton  —  Wilmington  —  Fort 
Fisher  (US  421)  525 

30  Old  Fort— Black  Mountain— Asheville  (US  70)  530 
30A  Junction  with  US  70 — Camp  Alice  (Mt.  Mitchell  Toll  Rd.)    534 


XIV  CONTENTS 

31  Junction  with  US  17  —  Lumberton  —  Laurinburg  —  Char- 
lotte— Asheville  (US  74) 

Section  a.  Junction  with  US  17  to  Laurinburg 
Section  b.  Laurinburg  to  Charlotte 
Section  c.  Charlotte  to  Asheville 

32  Junction  with  US  1 — Troy — Albemarle — Charlotte   (US 
15-501,  State  27) 

33  Washington — Belhaven — Swanquarter — Engelhard  (US 
264) 

33A  Junction  with  US  264 — Bath — Bayview  (State  92) 


PART    IV.      NATIONAL    PARK    AND    FORESTS 

Great    Smoky   Mountains  National  Park 
National  Forests 


PART    V.      APPENDICES 

Chronology 
Suggested    Readings 
Index 


LIST      OF 
ILLUSTRATIONS 


Photographs  not  otherwise  credited  have  as  a  ride  been  furnished  by 
the  North  Carolina  Department  of  Conservation  and  Development. 


HATTERAS  TO  NANTAHALA 
Jockey's  Ridge,  Nags  Head 
Old  Hatteras  Light  at  Dawn 
Yaupon  Tree  and  Banks  Pony 
Frisco  on  the  Banks 

Wootten 
Disappearing  Road,  Smith  Island 
Long-leaf  Pine  and  Dogwood,  near 

Pinehurst 
Linville  Falls,  Linville 

Wootten 
Big  Pinnacle,  Pilot  Mountain 


between  12  and  13 

Lake  Lure  from  Chimney  Rock 
Asheville  Chamber  of  Commerce 

Pisgah  and  the  Rat  from  Asheville 
Asheville  Chamber  of  Commerce 

Grandfather  Mountain  from  Linville 

Mount  Mitchell   Framed  in  Rhodo- 
dendron 

Mountain  Farm,  Haywood  County 

Dawn  in  Nantahala  Gorge 

Asheville  Chamber  of  Commerce 


HISTORICAL 

Cherokee  Types 

Tuscarora  Graves,  Louisburg 

Cherokee  Gorget 

B.  S.  Colburn  Collection 
Indian  Mound,  Mt.  Gilead 
Cherokee  Ball  Game 
Cherokee  Bear  Dance 
Blockhouse  at  Fort  Raleigh 

Highton 
Cornwallis'  Headquarters,  Wilming- 
ton 

Highton 
Statue  of  General  Greene,  Guilford 
Courthouse  Military  Park 

Art  Shop,  Greensboro 
Birthplace  of  Andrew  Johnson, 
Raleigh 


between  44  and  45 
Birthplace  of  Gov.  Zebulon  B.  Vance 
Glider   Flight   by   Wright   Brothers, 

Kill  Devil  Hill 
Wright   Brothers'   Monument,   Nags 
Head 

Albert  Burden 
Old  Stone  House  near  Salisbury 

Salisbury  Chamber  of  Commerce 
Nancy  Jones  House,  Cary 
Cupola  House,  Edenton 

Highton 
Old  Market  House,  Fayetteville 

Wootten 
John  Wright  Stanly  House,  New  Bern 

Highton 


ARCHITECTURAL 
Marsh  House,  Bath 

Wootten 
Interior,     Smallwood-Ward 
New  Bern 
Highton 


House, 


between  124  and  125 
Spiral  Stairway,  Powell  House,  near 
Tarboro 
Highton 
Orton  Plantation,  near  Wilmington 
Wootten 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 


Bellamy  Mansion,  Wilmington 

Highton 
Brothers'  House,  Winston-Salem 

Fran\  ]ones 
Library,  Biltmore  House,  Asheville 

Asheville  Chamber  of  Commerce 
Entrance,  Biltmore  House,  Asheville 

Asheville  Chamber  of  Commerce 
State  Capitol,  Raleigh  (interior  view) 
State  Capitol,   Raleigh    (exterior  de- 
tail) 

RELIGIOUS 

"Ecce    Homo,"    St.    James    Church, 
Wilmington 

Wilmington    Chamber  of  Com- 
merce 
St.  Thomas,  Bath 
St.  Paul's,  Edenton 

Highton 
Interior  of  St.  Thomas  Church,  Bath 

Wootten 
Old  Bethabara  Church,  Old  Town, 

near  Winston-Salem 
Moravian       Churchyard,      Winston- 
Salem 
Home  Moravian  Church  and  Salem 
College,  Winston-Salem 
Wootten 
Christ  Church,  Raleigh 
Presbyterian  Church,  New  Bern 
Highton 


State  Capitol,  Raleigh 

Albert  Barden 
Chowan   County  Courthouse,   Eden- 
ton 

Highton 
Burke  County  Courthouse,  Morgan- 
ton 

Morganton    Chamber    of    Com- 
merce 
City  Hall,  Charlotte 

Charlotte  Chamber  of  Commerce 

between  140  and  141 
St.  Lawrence  Catholic  Church.  Ashe- 
ville 

Asheville  Chamber  of  Commerce 
Cedar   Grove   Cemetery,   New   Bern 

Highton 
St.  John's-in-the-Wilderness,  Flat  Rock 
Historical     American     Building 
Survey 
St.  Peter's  Church,  Washington 

Washington    Chamber   of   Com- 
merce 
First    Presbyterian    Church,    Greens- 
boro 

Art  Shop,  Greensboro 
Country    Church    on    US    70,    near 
Morrisville 
Highton 


EDUCATIONAL  AND  INDUSTRIAL 

Old  East  and  the  Well,  Chapel  Hill 

Chas.  A.  Farrell 
Playmakers  Theater,  Chapel  Hill 

Wootten 
Carillon  Tower,  Duke  University 
East  Campus,  Duke  University 

Highton 
Wait  Hall,  Wake  Forest  College 
Aycock  Auditorium,  Woman's  Col- 
lege, Greensboro 

Greensboro    Chamber    of    Com- 
merce 
Chambers    Building,   Davidson   Col- 
lege 

Fran\  Jones 
Performance     in     Forest     Theater, 
Chapel  Hill 

Wootten 
Mint  Museum  of  Art,  Charlotte 

Highton 


between  IJ2  and  ijj 
Jefferson  Standard  Building,  Greens- 
boro 

Greensboro    Chamber    of    Com- 
merce 
Office   Building,   R.   J.  Reynolds  To- 
bacco Co.,  Winston-Salem 

Winston-Salem       Chamber       of 
Commerce 
Cotton   Mills   on  Tar  River,  Rocky 
Mount 

Roc\y  Mount  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce 
Tryon  Street,  Looking  North,  Char- 
lotte 

Charlotte  Chamber  of  Commerce 
Custom  House,  Wilmington 
Asheville    from    Beaucatcher    Moun- 
tain 
Asheville  Chamber  of  Commerce 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 


XV11 


INDUSTRIAL  AND  AGRICULTURAL 


Negro  Field  Hand 

Wootten 
Negro  Field  Hand 

Wootten 
Cotton  Pickers  at  Work 
Unloading    Cotton    at    Gin,    Smith- 
field 
Farm  Security  Administration 
Power  Loom  in  Cotton  Mill 

U.  S.  Department  of  Labor 
Tobacco  Auction 

Farm  Security  Administration 
Cigarette   Machine,   Reidsville 
Weaving    on    Old-Fashioned    Loom, 
Burgess 

WILD  LIFE  AND  SPORTS 

Fawn    Rearing   in    Pisgah    National 

Forest 
Raccoon  on  the  Hunt 
Bruin  as  Tree  Climber 
Mama  Opossum  with  Brood 
Rhododendron  Blossoms 
Shortia    Galacifolia,    found    only    in 

this  State 
Moth  Boat  Race,  Edenton 
Skiing  at  Banner  Elk 
Famous  No.  i  Course,  Pinehurst 
John  G.  Hemmer 

iMISCELLANEOUS 

Tulip  Festival,  Washington 
Rhododendron  Festival  Parade,  Ashe- 
ville 

Asheville  Chamber  of  Commerce 
Swing    Your    Mountain    Gal,    Soco 
Gap 

Asheville  Chamber  of  Commerce 
Performance  of  "The  Lost  Colony," 

Roanoke  Island 
Ox  Team  on  Mountain  Road 
Motor  Boats  at  Engelhard 

Wootten 
Old    Ways    on    New    Roads,    near 
Raleigh 
Highton 
Nash  Street,  Wilson 

Wilson   Chamber  of  Commerce 


between  268  and  269 


Potter  at  Work,  Jugtown 

Cheoah  Dam,  Tapoco 

Old  Mill  Wheel,  Dillingham 

Asheville  Chamber  of  Commerce 
Saw  Mill  on  Dismal  Swamp  Canal 

Wootteti 
Net  Fishing  at  Vandemere 
Well  on  Tenant  Farm 

Farm  Security  Administration 
Old  Plantation  Barn,  Pettigrew  Park 
Cutting  Crimson  Clover 

Highton 
Strawberry  Sale,  Wallace 


between  444  and  445 
Fox  Hunt,  Southern  Pines 

Eddy's  Studio 
Typical  Road  at  Pinehurst 

John  G.  Hemmer 
Quail  Hunting,  Pinehurst 

John  G.  Hemmer 
Trout     Fishing,     Upper     Davidson 
River 

Asheville  Chamber  of  Commerce 
Bringing  in  the  Game 
Camping  Deer  Hunters 


between  556  and  55J 
US  74  at  Hickory  Nut  Gap 

Asheville  Chamber  of  Commerce 
Chowan  River  Bridge,  Edenton 
New      Bridge      Across      Albemarle 
Sound 
Highton 
Typical  Wreck  near  Hatteras 
Only  Negro  Coast  Guard  Crew,  Pea 

Island  Station 
Southport  Fisherman 

Wootten 
Eastern  Farmer 

Wootten 
Darkies  Shelling  Corn 
Wootten 


MAPS 


STATE  MAP  back  pocket 

TRANSPORTATION  {reverse  of  State  Map)  back  pocket 
TOUR  KEY  MAP                                                                                                 front  end  paper 

ASHEVILLE  142-43 

CHAPEL  HILL  152 

CHARLOTTE  164-65 

DURHAM  174-75 

DUKE  UNIVERSITY  CAMPUS  178 

EDENTON  184 

ELIZABETH  CITY  192 

FAYETTEVILLE  198 

GREENSBORO  208-9 

HIGH  POINT  218-19 

NEW  BERN  224 

RALEIGH  238-39 

WILMINGTON  252-53 

WINSTON-SALEM  264-65 


NORTH  CAROLINA 


A  Guide  to  the  Old  North  State 


General  Information 


Railroads:  Three  trunk-line  railroads,  the  Southern,  Seaboard  Air 
Line,  and  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line,  traverse  North  Carolina  in  a 
general  northerly-southerly  direction.  Each  operates  subsidiary  lines. 
The  Southern  Ry.  and  the  Norfolk  Southern  R.R.,  with  subsidiaries, 
cross  the  State  in  an  easterly-westerly  direction.  Other  independently 
operated  lines  are:  Aberdeen  &  Rockfish  R.R.;  Atlantic  &  Western 
Ry.;  Atlantic  &  Yadkin  Ry.;  Clinchfield  R.R.;  Cape  Fear  Ry.;  Caro- 
lina &  Northwestern  Ry.;  Durham  &  Southern  Ry.;  East  Tennessee  & 
Western  North  Carolina  R.R.;  High  Point,  Randleman,  Asheboro  & 
Southern  R.R.;  Laurinburg  &  Southern  R.R.;  Linville  River  Ry.; 
Louisville  &  Nashville  R.R.;  Moore  Central  Ry.;  Norfolk  &  Western 
Ry.;  Piedmont  &  Northern  (electric)  Ry.;  Rockingham  R.R.;  Ten- 
nessee &  North  Carolina  Ry.;  Virginia  &  Carolina  Southern  R.R.; 
Wilmington,  Brunswick  &  Southern  R.R.;  Winston-Salem  South- 
bound Ry. 

Bus  Lines,  Interstate  and  Intrastate:  Atlantic  Greyhound  Corpora- 
tion, Carolina  Coach  Co.,  Carolina  Scenic  Coach  Lines,  Cox  & 
Eggleston,  ET&WNC  Motor  Transportation  Co.,  Independence  Bus 
Co.,  Leaksville-Danville  Bus  Line,  Norfolk  Southern  Bus  Corporation, 
Pan-American  Bus  Line,  Queen  City  Coach  Co.,  Smoky  Mountain 
Trailways,  Virginia  Carolina  Coach  Co.,  Virginia  Dare  Transporta- 
tion Co.,  Virginia  Stage  Lines,  Inc.  Intrastate  Only:  City  Coach  Co., 
Engelhard-Washington  Bus  Co.,  Lincolnton  Bus  Co.,  Mars  Hill  Bus 
Line,  Mount  Airy  Transportation  Co.,  Oteen  Bus  Line,  Southerland 
Brothers,  Seashore  Transportation  Co.,  Yadkin  Coach  Co. 

Steamship  Lines:  Belhaven  Boat  Line — Belhaven  to  Norfolk,  Va.; 
Cashie  River  Line — Plymouth,  Windsor,  Sans  Souci,  Howard;  Eastern 
Carolina  Transportation  Co. — Elizabeth  City,  Mill  Creek,  Nags  Head, 
Mashoes,  Manteo;  Guthrie  Steamboat  Line — Engelhard,  Elizabeth 
City,  Norfolk,  Va.;  Manteo  &  Hatteras  Transportation  Co. — Manteo, 
Rodanthe,  Salvo,  Avon,  Buxton,  Frisco,  Hatteras;  Mooney  Lines — 
Dismal  Swamp  Canal,  Pamlico  and  Albemarle  Sounds,  Elizabeth 
City  and  Norfolk,  Va.,  Engelhard  and  Coinjock;  Ocracoke-Morehead 
City  Mail  Line — Morehead  City,  Beaufort,  Davis,  Sealevel,  Atlantic, 


XXIV  GENERAL     INFORMATION 

Ocracoke,  and  other  points;  Roanoke  River  Steamboat  Co. — Hymans 
Ferry,  Hamilton,  Quitsna,  Williamston,  Jamesville,  Canal  Landing, 
and  other  points  on  Roanoke  River;  Salmon  Creek  Line — Avoca,  Star 
Landing,  and  other  landings  on  Salmon  Creek;  Wanchese  Line — 
Elizabeth  City,  Wanchese,  Manns  Harbor,  Stumpy  Point. 

Air  Lines:  Eastern  Air  Lines,  Inc.,  New  York  to  Miami,  stopping 
at  Raleigh;  New  York  to  New  Orleans,  stopping  at  Greensboro-High 
Point,  and  Charlotte  (see  transportation  map). 

Highways:  32  U.  S.  highways  serve  the  State,  of  which  26  are 
interstate.  Of  approximately  59,000  m.,  10,762  are  included  in  the 
major  State  system;  all  roads  are  maintained  by  the  State;  no  State 
border  inspection;  State  highway  patrol.  Water  and  gasoline  may  be 
obtained  in  all  parts  of  State.  Gas  tax:  State,  6^;  Fed.  1^.  (For  high- 
ways routes  see  state  map.) 

Motor  Vehicle  Laws  (digest) :  Unlawful  to  drive  at  speed  greater 
than  is  reasonable  and  prudent  under  conditions  then  existing,  and 
speed  greater  than  the  following  limits  is  prima  facie  evidence  of 
unlawful  driving:  20  mph.  in  any  business  district;  25  mph.  in  any 
residential  district;  elsewhere,  45  mph.  for  passenger  vehicles,  35  mph. 
for  trucks,  and  30  mph.  for  trucks  or  tractors  with  trailers.  Local  and 
temporary  exceptions  are  indicated  by  signs.  Traffic  in  cities  and  towns 
is  regulated  by  local  ordinance. 

National  uniform  code  applies  for  operation  of  motorcars  on  State 
highways.  Comity  rule  prevails  for  operation  of  cars  carrying  licenses 
obtained  outside  of  North  Carolina,  every  holder  of  an  out-of-state 
license  receiving  the  same  courtesy  that  the  State  issuing  the  license 
grants  to  the  holder  of  a  North  Carolina  license.  Drivers'  licenses  are 
required.  A  person  who  engages  in  any  gainful  employment  or  who 
establishes  a  residence  in  North  Carolina  must  procure  license  for 
all  vehicles  registered  in  his  or  her  name  at  the  time  employment  is 
accepted  or  residence  established.  Minimum  age  16  yrs.  if  application 
is  signed  by  parent  or  guardian,  otherwise  18.  Hand  signals  must  be 
used;  spotlights  are  permitted;  accidents  must  be  reported  to  some 
civil  authority. 

Prohibited:  Coasting  in  neutral,  parking  on  highways,  use  of  stick- 
ers on  windshields  or  windows,  passing  school  bus  when  loading  or 
unloading. 

lntracoastal  Waterway:  A  series  of  canals  connecting  rivers,  sounds, 
bays,  and  creeks  along  the  North  Carolina  coast  affording  sheltered 
inland  route,  north  and  south,  from  Virginia  Line  to  South  Carolina 
Line.  Average  channel  depth  9  to  12  ft.  at  mean  low  water.  Among 
principal  waterways  comprising  the  route  are  Currituck,  Albemarle, 
Pamlico,    and    Bogue    Sounds;    Albemarle    &    Chesapeake,    Dismal 


GENERAL     INFORMATION  XXV 

Swamp  Canals;  Alligator,  Pungo,  Newport,  Bay  Rivers;  Pamlico, 
Neuse,  Cape  Fear  River  estuaries.  Description:  The  Intracoastal 
Waterway,  compiled  by  Federal  Writers'  Project  of  the  Works  Prog- 
ress Administration,  United  States  Government  Printing  Office,  Wash- 
ington, D.  C;  p.  250.  Pilot:  Inside  Route  Pilot,  Intracoastal  Waterway, 
New  Yort^  to  Key  West,  available  from  U.  S.  Coast  and  Geodetic 
Survey,  Washington,  D.  C,  and  its  sales  agents;  p.  50^. 

Navigable  Rivers  {year-round  navigation  7  ft.  or  more,  15-25  m. 
from  mouth):  Black,  Cashie,  Cape  Fear,  Northeast  Cape  Fear, 
Chowan,  Meherrin,  Neuse,  Pamlico,  Perquimans,  Roanoke,  Scupper- 
nong,  Trent. 

Accommodations:  Hotels  in  larger  cities  and  towns.  In  western  and 
central  North  Carolina  are  numerous  tourists'  camps;  fewer  in  eastern 
part  of  State,  but  many  homes  take  in  paying  guests;  several  dude 
ranches  in  the  mountains. 

Liquor  Regulations:  Several  of  the  counties  have  established  pack- 
age liquor  stores  under  county  option.  Except  in  a  few  localities  it 
is  lawful  to  sell  beer  and  ale  not  exceeding  5%  alcoholic  content  by 
weight,  and  both  natural  and  fortified  wine,  the  latter  not  exceeding 
24%  alcoholic  content  by  volume. 

Climate  and  Traveling  Equipment:  Travelers  in  the  mountains  in 
summer  should  have  medium-weight  topcoats  or  sweaters,  as  evenings 
are  generally  cool.  Though  extremely  warm  days  are  unusual  it  is  well 
to  have  light  clothing.  Sun  glasses  are  needed  for  trips  along  the  coast. 
The  Sandhill  region  has  several  winter  resorts  where  only  medium- 
weight  clothing  is  necessary. 

Poisonous  Plants  and  Venomous  Snakes:  Poison-ivy  grows  in 
wooded  areas,  along  fences  and  streams;  poison  sumac  occurs  in  wet 
swampy  lands.  Rattlesnakes  and  copperheads  occur  in  remote  sections. 
Cottonmouth  moccasins  and  coral  snakes  are  found  only  in  eastern 
and  southeastern  sections. 

Recreational  Areas:  Coast — North  Carolina  has  a  coast  line  of  320 
miles  with  many  beaches  and  resorts  offering  facilities  for  water  sports. 
Sandhill — Sports  facilities  available  at  Southern  Pines  and  Pinehurst. 
Piedmont — Artificial  lakes  along  the  Yadkin  and  Catawba  Rivers. 
Mountain — Hiking  and  bridle  trails  lead  to  mountain  peaks,  many  of 
which  are  more  than  a  mile  high;  camping  grounds,  trout  streams, 
artificial  lakes,  wild  game. 

State  La\es  {facilities  for  swimming,  fishing,  boating,  and  other 
water  sports) :  White,  Jones  {for  Negroes) ,  Salters,  and  Singletary 
in  Bladen  County  {see  tour  5) ;  Waccamaw  in  Columbus  County  {see 
tour  31a) ;  Phelps  in  Washington  County  {see  tour  26a) ;  Matta- 
muskeet  and  Alligator  in  Hyde  County  {see  tour  jj)  . 


XXVI  GENERAL     INFORMATION 

Power  Development  La\es  {opportunities  for  water  sports)  :  Yadkin 
River — High  Rock  in  Davidson  County  {see  tour  12) ;  Badin  in 
Montgomery  and  Stanly  Counties  {see  tour  75) ;  Tillery  in  Mont- 
gomery and  Stanly  Counties  {see  tour  32) ;  Blewett  Falls  in  Richmond 
and  Anson  Counties  {see  tour  31b).  Catawba  River — James  in  Burke 
and  McDowell  Counties  {see  tour  26c) ;  Rhodhiss  in  Burke  and 
Caldwell  Counties  {see  tour  26c) ;  Mountain  Island  in  Mecklenburg 
and  Gaston  Counties  {see  tour  19 A).  Cheoah  River — Lake  Santeetlah 
in  Graham  County;  Little  Tennessee  River — Lake  Cheoah  in  Graham 
County  {see  tour  21E). 

Rivers  Suitable  for  Water  Sports  {east  to  west) :  Pasquotank,  Roa- 
noke, Pamlico,  Neuse,  Cape  Fear,  Yadkin,  Catawba,  Broad,  New, 
Watauga,  Little  Tennessee,  and  Hiwassee. 

State  Parkj:  Fort  Macon  State  Park,  near  Morehead  City — close  to 
good  fishing  grounds  and  bathing  centers  {see  tour  28).  Cape  Hat- 
teras  (Phipps)  State  Park,  Dare  County — bathing,  fishing,  and  boating 
{see  tour  iA).  Morrow  Mountain  State  Park  near  Albemarle  in 
Stanly  County — swimming,  hiking,  horseback  riding,  cabins,  and  pic- 
nic sites  {see  tour  32).  Hanging  Rock  in  Stokes  County — water 
sports,  camping  sites,  foot  and  bridle  paths,  trout  fishing  {see  tour 
14).  Rendezvous  Mountain  Park  near  Wilkesboro — picnicking  and 
hiking  {see  tour  25).  Mount  Mitchell  State  Park  in  Yancey  County — 
trails,  paths,  cottages  {see  tour  30 A).  Crabtree  Creek  State  Recrea- 
tion Area  near  Raleigh   {see  tour  9). 

National  Forests:  Three  national  forests  and  one  purchase  unit  pro- 
vide camping  grounds  with  provisions  for  outdoor  cooking:  Croatan 
National  Forest  in  the  southeastern,  Pisgah  in  the  western,  Nantahala 
in  the  southwestern,  and  the  Uharie  Purchase  Unit  in  the  south 
central  part  of  the  State.  The  Pisgah  has  four  divisions — Grandfather, 
Pisgah,  Mount  Mitchell,  and  French  Broad  {see  national  forests). 

National  Par\s:  Great  Smoky  Mountains  National  Park  provides  a 
variety  of  recreational  interests  {see  great  smoky  mountains  national 
park).  Military  Par\s:  Moores  Creek  {see  tour  29)  and  Guilford 
Courthouse  {see  tour  /■?)  have  limited  recreational  equipment. 

Appalachian  Trail  {roughly  following  the  North  Carolina-Tennessee 
boundary  between  TJna\a  Mountain  and  Davenport  Gap,  thence  in  a 
southeasterly  direction  to  the  Georgia  Line) :  Primary  (4-ft.  graded  for 
horses);  Secondary  (4-ft.  cleared);  Manway  (unimproved).  Log: 
Guide  to  the  Southern  Appalachians,  Pub.  No.  8,  Appalachian  Trail 
Conference,  901  Union  Trust  Bldg.,  Washington,  D.  C,  p.  $1.  Maps: 
Quadrangles  of  the  U.  S.  Geological  Survey,  Department  of  the  In- 
terior, Washington,  D.  C,  while  obsolete  as  to  highways  and  trails, 
are  the  most  detailed  topographic  maps  available;  recent  topographic 


GENERAL     INFORMATION  XXV11 

maps  available  in  two  sections  for  Great  Smoky  Mountains  National 
Park;  for  the  Appalachian  Trail,  the  following  quadrangles  are  avail- 
able: Roan  Mountain,  Mount  Mitchell,  Asheville,  Greeneville,  Mt. 
Guyot;  between  Deals  Gap  and  Georgia  Line,  Nantahala,  Cowee, 
Walhalla,  Dahlonega,  10^  ea.,  U.  S.  Forest  Service  maps  (not  con- 
tour), available  free,  for  four  divisions  of  Pisgah  National  Forest, 
U.  S.  Forest  Service,  Asheville;  Nantahala  National  Forest,  U.  S.  For- 
est Service,  Franklin;  booklets  and  folders  available  from  same  sources. 
Information:  The  following  organizations  are  responsible  for  the  vari- 
ous sections  of  the  trail:  between  Unaka  Mountain  and  Davenport 
Gap,  Carolina  Mountain  Club,  Asheville;  Smoky  Mountains  National 
Park,  Park  Service,  Gatlinburg,  Tenn.,  and  Bryson  City;  between 
Wesser  and  Georgia  Line,  Nantahala  National  Forest,  Franklin,  and 
Nantahala  Appalachian  Trail  Club,  Almond. 

State  Game  Refuges:  Western  North  Carolina — Pisgah,  Mount 
Mitchell,  Daniel  Boone,  Wayah  Bald.  Other  refuges:  Holly  Shelter, 
Gates  County,  Robeson  County,  Union  County,  Guilford  County. 
Holly  Shelter  harbors  bear,  deer,  wild  turkey,  and  small  game  {see 
tour  4).  Certain  sections  of  Lake  Mattamuskeet,  State-controlled,  are 
noted  for  ducks  and  geese  {see  tour  jj).  The  territory  surrounding 
these  refuges  usually  furnishes  good  hunting.  Arrangements  for  hunt- 
ing on  State-administered  public  grounds  may  be  made  through 
the  division  of  game  and  inland  fisheries  of  the  North  Carolina  Dept. 
of  Conservation  and  Development,  Raleigh. 

Federal  Game  Refuges:  Swanquarter  and  parts  of  Lake  Matta- 
muskeet in  Hyde  County  and  Lake  Tillery  in  Stanly  and  Mont- 
gomery Counties  are  sanctuaries  for  migratory  waterfowl.  Fishing, 
under  permit,  allowed  on  refuges.  Limited  hunting  and  fishing  are 
permitted  at  irregular  intervals  in  Pisgah  National  Forest  under  U.  S. 
Forest  Service  regulations  {see  national  forests). 

Fish  and  Game:  345  species  of  identified  fish,  including  mountain 
trout,  warm-water  game  fish,  migratory  fish,  and  salt-water  species. 
Coastal  waters  and  many  inland  bodies  afford  fishing  opportunities. 
Game  occurs  throughout  the  State,  including  migratory  wild  fowl, 
upland  game  birds,  deer,  bear,  fox,  squirrel,  rabbit,  opossum,  and 
raccoon. 

Fishing  Licenses:  Issued  by  clerks  of  the  superior  courts  and  vari- 
ous other  persons.  Nonresident,  $5.10;  nonresident  daily  permit,  $1.10; 
State-resident,  $2.10;  State-resident  daily  permit,  60^;  county-resident, 
$1.10  (most  of  the  western  counties  require  licenses  of  county  resi- 
dents— see  local  authorities) .  •  License  requirements  extend  to  both 
sexes  above  age  of  16.  Licenses  are  not  required  to  fish  in  Atlantic 
Ocean,  the  sounds,  or  other  large  bodies  of  water  near  the  seacoast 


XXV111  GENERAL     INFORMATION 

which  do  not  need  to  be  stocked  or  protected  (inquire  locally).  Land- 
owners and  minor  members  of  their  families  may  fish  on  their  own 
lands  without  licenses.  For  size  and  bag  limits  see  State  hunting  and 
fishing  laws. 

Hunting  Licenses:  Issued  by  clerks  of  the  superior  courts  and  vari- 
ous other  persons.  Nonresident,  $15.25;  State-resident,  $2.10;  county- 
resident,  $1.10;  combination  State-resident  hunting  and  fishing,  $3.10; 
guide,  $5.25  (subject  to  change);  nonresident  trapper,  $25.25;  State- 
resident  trapper,  $3.25;  county-resident  trapper,  $2.25.  Persons  who 
have  lived  in  the  State  for  six  months  preceding  application  for 
license  are  regarded  as  residents.  A  nonresident  who  owns  land  in 
the  State  consisting  of  100  acres  or  more  may  hunt  thereon  without 
license.  Other  nonresident  owners  of  lands  in  the  State  may  obtain 
licenses  to  hunt  on  their  own  lands  for  $5.25.  No  license  is  required 
of  a  resident  owner  of  land,  or  a  dependent  minor  member  of  his 
family,  to  hunt  upon  such  land.  The  lessee  of  a  farm  for  cultivation 
may  hunt  thereon  without  license.  A  member  of  the  family  of  a 
resident,  under  16  years  of  age,  may  hunt  under  the  license  of  his 
parent  or  guardian.  A  nonresident  minor  child  of  a  resident  may 
secure  and  use  a  resident  license  when  visiting  such  resident  parent. 
For  size  and  bag  limits  see  State  hunting  and  fishing  laws. 

General  Service  Bureaus  for  Tourists:  North  Carolina  Dept.  of  Con- 
servation and  Development,  Raleigh.  U.  S.  Forest  Supervisors:  Pisgah, 
Asheville;  Nantahala,  Franklin;  Croatan,  Columbia,  S.  C,  or  U.  S. 
Forest  Service,  Washington,  D.  C;  Great  Smoky  Mountains  National 
Park,  Bryson  City. 


Calendar  of  Events 


(nfd  means  no  fixed  date) 


Jan.       5th 
6th 
7th 

9th  to  13th 
4th  wk. 

Rodanthe 
Wilmington 
St.  Helena 
Pinehurst 
Greensboro 

nfd 

Charlotte 

nfd 

Southern  Pir 

Feb.      3rd  Mon. 
4th  wk. 

Gatesville 
High  Point 

nfd 

High  Point 

nfd 

Raleigh 

nfd 

Raleigh 

March 


Old  Christmas  Celebration 
Old  Christmas  Celebration 
Old  Christmas  Celebration 
Pinehurst  Club  Field  Trials 
Carolina    A.A.U.    Wrestling 
Tournament 
Golden  Gloves  Boxing 
Tournament 


February  Fishermen's  Court 
Carolina    A.A.U.    Basketball 
Tournament 

Southern    Furniture    Exposi- 
tion (trade  only) 
Carolinas-Virginia  Boxing 
Tournament 

East  Carolina  Golden  Gloves 
Boxing  Tournament 


1st  wk. 

Raleigh 

Southern  Conference  Basket- 
ball Tournament 

2nd  wk. 

Pinehurst 

Seniors  Golf  Tournament 

3rd  wk. 

Southern  Pines 

Spring  Tennis  Tournament 

3rd  Sat. 

Pinehurst 

Sandhills  Steeplechase  and 

22nd  to  24th 

Southern  Pines 

Racing  Assn.  Meet 
Women's  Mid-South  Golf 

4th  wk. 

Pinehurst 

Championship 

United  North  and  South  Open 

4th  wk. 

Greensboro  and 

Golf  Championship 
Greater  Greensboro  Open 

Sedgefield 

Golf  Tournament 

XXX 


28th  to  29th      Pinehurst 
Last  wk.  Pinehurst 


CALENDAR     OF     EVENTS 

(nfd  means  no  fixed  date) 

Horse  Show 


nfd 

Chapel  Hill 

Easter  Sun. 

Winston-Salem 

Easter  Sun. 

Asheville 

Easter  Mon. 

Winston-Salem 

Apr.      1  st  wk. 

Pinehurst 

4th  to  6th 

Asheville 

6th 

Fort  Bragg 

10th 

Asheville 

2nd  wk. 

Washington 

12th 

State-wide 

3rd  wk. 

Pinehurst 

3rd  wk. 

Greensboro 

3rd  wk. 

High  Point 

3rd  wk. 

Asheville 

4th  wk. 

Sedgefield 

4th  wk. 

Southern  Pines 

nfd 

Try  on 

nfd 

Charlotte 

nfd 

Chapel  Hill 

nfd 

Pinehurst 

nfd 

Wilmington 

nfd 

Durham 

nfd 

Southern  Pines 

North   and  South   Invitation 

Golf  Championship  for 

Women 

Dramatic  Festival  and 

Tournament 

Moravian  Easter  Sunrise 

Service 

Union  Easter  Sunrise  Service 

Morning  German  and  Dance 

North   and   South   Invitation 
Amateur  Golf  Championship 
Land  of  the  Sky  Open  Golf 
Tournament 
Army  Day 

Men's  Amateur  Golf  Tourna- 
ment 

Tulip  Festival 
Halifax  Day 

North  and  South  Professional 
Tennis  Tournament 
North  Carolina  High  School 
Music  Contest 

South  Atlantic  Interscholastic 
Golf  Championship 
Women's  Spring  Golf  Tour- 
nament 

Senior  State  Golf  Champion- 
ship Tournament 
Dogwood  Tennis  Tourna- 
ment 

Gymkhana;  horse  and  hound 
show 

Kennel  Club  Show 
High  School  Week;  debating, 
track,  and  tennis  tournaments 
Kennel  Club  Show 
Airlie  Azalea  Gardens 
Kennel  Club  Show 
Horse  Show 


CALENDAR    OF    EVENTS 


XXXI 


nfd 

State-wide 

Garden  Fortnight  and  Pil- 
grimage 

nfd 

Beaufort 

Gladiolus  Festival 

May      i  st  wk. 

State-wide 

May  Day  Celebration 

i  st  wk. 

Tryon 

Flower  Show 

ist  wk. 

Rocky  Mount 

Gallopade 

ioth 

State-wide 

Confederate  Memorial  Day 

ioth  of  May,  June, 

July,  Aug. 

Cape  Lookout 

Banker  Pony  Roundup 

about    15th 

Greensboro 

Garden  Club  Show 

20th 

State-wide 

Mecklenburg  Declaration  of 
Independence  Day 

20th 

Wrightsville 

Wilmington    Light    Infantry 

Beach 

Celebration 

3rd  or 

Sedgefield 

Left-handed  Golf  Champion- 

4th wk. 

ship  of  the  Carolinas  Tourna- 
ment 

nfd 

Durham 

Flower  Show 

nfd 

Elizabeth  City 

National  Show  of  Racing 
Pigeon  Club 

nfd 

Charlotte 

Garden  Club  Show 

nfd 

Raleigh 

Garden  Club  Show 

nfd 

Kannapolis 

Open  Rifle  Tournament 

June      ist  wk.  Wallace 

ist  wk.  Chadbourn 
2nd  or  3rd  wk.  Asheville 

2nd  wk.  Gastonia 

2nd  Fri.  Rocky  Mount 

2nd  Sat.  Rocky  Mount 

4th  wk.  Banner  Elk 


4th  Sun. 
June,  July,  Aug. 

(full  moon) 

July       ist  wk.  to 
Sept. 

2nd  wk. 

4th 


Near  Linville 
Ocracoke 


Fort  Raleigh 
Roanoke  Island 

Asheville 

Linville 


Strawberry  Festival 
Strawberry  Festival 
Rhododendron  Festival 
Cotton  Festival 
June  German 
Negro  June  German 
Trout  Fishing  Derby  and  Fly- 
Casting  Tournament 
Tri-State  Singing  Convention 
Channel  Bass  Derbies 


The  Lost  Colony  Pageant 
(Wed.,  Thurs.,  Fri.,  Sat.,  and 
Sun.  nights) 

North  Carolina  Open  Tennis 
Tournament 

Men's  Handicap  Golf  Tour- 
nament 


XXX11 


CALENDAR     OF     EVENTS 

(nfd  means  no  fixed  date) 


4th 

Ocracoke 

Banker  Pony  Roundup 

2nd  wk. 

Fort  Bragg 

North     Carolina     Rifle     and 
Pistol  Championship 

2nd  wk. 

Wenona 

Blackland  Station  Farmers 
Field  Day 

3rd  wk. 

Oxford 

Tobacco  Station  Field  Day 

4th  wk. 

Raleigh 

Joint  Farmers  and  4-H  Clubs 
Convention 

4th  wk. 

Asheville 

Women's    Invitation    Golf 
Tournament 

28th  to  29th 

High  Point 

Carolina   A.A.U.   Swimming 
Meet 

nfd 

Linville 

Skeet  Tournament 

nfd 

Wilmington 

New  Hanover  Fishing  Club 
Casting  Tournament 

nfd 

High  Point 

Southern    Furniture    Exposi- 
tion (trade  only) 

nfd 

Beaufort  and 

Cape  Lookout 

Goggle  Fishing  Tournament 

nfd 

Beaufort-More- 

head  City 

Gulf  Stream  Dolphin  Derby 

Aug.     1st  wk. 

Asheville 

Mountain    Folk    Music    and 
Dance  Festival 

1  st  wk. 

Rocky  Mount 

Upper     Coastal     Plain     Test 
Farm  Field  Day 

1st  wk. 

Hendersonville 

Horse  Show 

1  st  wk. 

Blowing  Rock 

Horse  Show 

2nd  wk. 

Lincoln  County 

Rock  Springs  (Methodist) 
Camp  Meeting 

2nd  wk. 

Wilmington 

South  Atlantic  Yachting 
Assn.  Meet 

2nd  wk. 

Blowing  Rock 

Men's  Golf  Tournament 

2nd  wk. 

Asheville 

Men's  Invitation  Golf  Tour- 
nament 

15th 

Wrightsville 

Beach 

Water  Carnival 

3rd  wk. 

Wilson 

Tobacco  Festival 

3rd  wk. 

Asheville 

Men's  Invitation  Golf  Tour- 

nament 


CALENDAR     OF     EVENTS 


XXX111 


18th 


23rd 


Fort  Raleigh 
Roanoke  Island 


Fayetteville 


3rd  wk. 

Blowing  Rock 

nfd 

Swannanoa 

nfd 

Near  Charlotte 

nfd 

Falcon 

nfd 

Linville 

nfd 

Linville 

nfd 

Morehead  City 

nfd 

Newton 

nfd 

Beaufort 

Sept.     Labor  Day 

New  Bern 

Labor  Day 

Linville 

2nd  wk. 

Willard 

2nd  wk. 
2nd  wk. 
4th  wk. 

Sedgefield 
Sedgefield 
Mount  Olive 

nfd 

Charlotte 

nfd 
nfd 

Raleigh 
Durham 

nfd 
nfd 

Spruce  Pine 
Asheville 

Oct.      ist  or 
2nd  wk. 

Sedgefield 

1 2th 
3rd  wk. 
about    15th 

Chapel  Hill 
Raleigh 
Elizabeth  City 

nfd 


Cherokee 


Joint  Celebration  of  the  Birth 
of  Virginia  Dare  and  Found- 
ing of  the  First  English  Col- 
ony in  America 
Fayetteville  Independent 
Light  Infantry  Anniversary 
Women's  Golf  Tournament 
Mountain    Test    Farm    Field 
Day 

Steel  Creek  Singing  Conven- 
tion 

Camp  Meeting   (Holiness) 
Horse  Show 

Men's   and   Women's   Invita- 
tion Golf  Tournaments 
Mid-Carolina     Coast     Water 
Carnival 

Reunion  of  Veterans  of  All 
Wars 
Channel  Bass  Derby 

Boat    Races    on    the    Neuse 
River 

Men's  Handicap  Golf  Tour- 
nament 

Coastal  Plain  Experiment  Sta- 
tion Farmers  Field  Day 
Men's  Golf  Championship 
Women's  Golf  Championship 
Farmers  Festival 
Food  Show 
Debutante  Ball 
Horse  Show 
Mayland  Fair 

Western  North  Carolina  Ne- 
gro Agricultural  Fair 

Mixed  Foursome  Golf  Cham- 
pionship of  the  Carolinas 
University  Day 
North  Carolina  State  Fair 
International    Moth    Boat 
Races 
Cherokee  Indian  Fair 


XXXIV 


CALENDAR     OF     EVENTS 

{Nfd  means  no  fixed  date) 


nfd 


Durham 


Open  Rifle  and  Pistol  Tour- 
nament 


nfd 

Durham 

Dahlia  Show 

nfd 

Greensboro 

Kennel  Club  Show 

nfd 

Asheville 

Kennel  Club  Show 

Nov. 

and  Dec. 

near  Asheville 

Big  Game  Hunts 

Nov. 

3rd  wk. 

Pinehurst 

Mid-South   Professional  Golf 
Tournament 

Thanksgiv- 
ing wk. 
29th  to  30th 

Wilmington 
Pinehurst 

Turkey  Shoot 

Continental  Field  Trial  Club 
Events 

nfd 

Asheboro 

North  Carolina  Fox  Hunters 
Assn.  Meet  and  Field  Trials 

Dec. 

1  st  to  3rd 

Pinehurst 

Pointer     Club     of     America 
Membership  Field  Trials 

5th  to  9th 

Pinehurst 

Pointer  Club  of  America 
Open  Field  Trials 

1  st  Sat. 

Charlotte 

North    Carolina-South    Caro- 
lina   High    School    Football 
Game 

15th  through 

Pinehurst  and 

Golf    and     Tennis     Tourna- 

winter sea- 

Southern Pines 

ments,      Gymkhanas,      Polo, 

son 

Field     Trials,     Fox     Hunts, 

17th 

Kill  Devil  Hill 

Horse   Racing,   Archery,   etc. 
Wright    Flight    Anniversary 
Observance 

about 

20th 

Winston-Salem 

Tobacco     Market    Christmas 

24th 
24th 

Wilmington 
Winston-Salem 

Party 

Community  Christmas  Tree 
Moravian    Love     Feast     and 
Candle  Service 

31st 

Winston-Salem 

Moravian  Watch  Night 

Varial 

nfd 
Die  Dates 

Elizabeth  City 
Hampstead 

National     Show    of    Racing 
Pigeon  Club 
Fiddlers  Convention 

Variable  Dates 

Charlotte 

Textile  Show 

Part  I 


GENERAL 
BACKGROUND 


TAR       HEELS       ALL 


By  Jonathan  Daniels 


AS  OLD  William  Byrd  of  Virginia  told  it,  the  line  between  North 
*Jk  Carolina  and  Virginia  was  drawn  across  the  map  with  much 
JL  JL  bickering  and  boozing.  And  when  the  line  between  the  two 
Carolinas  was  drawn,  legend  insists  that  the  South  Carolina  commis- 
sioners, being  low-country  gentlemen,  were  concerned  with  little  more 
than  keeping  Charleston  in  South  Carolina.  Between  the  lines,  between 
William  Byrd's  aristocratic  contempt  and  the  Charleston  gentlemen's 
aristocratic  unconcern,  was  left  an  area  which  for  years  on  end  rejoiced 
in  the  generalization  that  it  was  a  vale  of  humility  between  two  moun- 
tains of  conceit.  The  generalization  is  useful,  as  most  generalizations 
are.  A  modicum  of  truth  lies  in  it,  a  persisting  modicum,  borne  out  in 
the  report  of  a  modern  North  Carolinian  that  among  his  State's  neigh- 
bors there  were  only  two  classes  of  people,  those  who  never  had  worn 
shoes  and  those  who  made  you  feel  that  you  never  had.  His  report  is 
important  as  reflecting,  in  a  North  Carolina  recently  more  proud  than 
humble,  a  continuing  conviction  that  one  man  is  as  good  as  another 
and  that  if  you  don't  believe  it  he'll  show  you  he's  a  damn  sight  better. 

Such  generalization  may  aid  the  mechanically  and  mentally  hurrying 
traveler,  but  it  also  may  lead  him  into  error  in  a  State  500  miles  long 
in  which  on  the  same  day  the  winds  may  whisper  in  the  palms  at  Smith 
Island  and  the  snow  cover  trees  common  to  Canada  in  the  altitudes  of 
Clingmans  Dome.  Such  a  generalization  certainly  can  indicate  nothing 
about  the  fact  that  between  the  fishermen  of  Manteo  and  the  men  in 
the  coves  beyond  Murphy  there  are  at  least  three  areas,  different  not  only 
in  the  geography  of  Coastal  Plain,  Piedmont,  and  Mountain  Regions, 
but  different  in  the  men  and  their  preoccupations  within  them.  Over 
roads  and  taxes,  representation  and  offices,  they  have  fought  and  quar- 
reled and  still  fight  and  quarrel.  The  East,  which  once  angrily  insisted 
on  political  preference  because  it  paid  most  of  the  taxes,  now  resists  the 
Piedmont,  which  today  does  most  of  the  paying.  The  greater  part  of 
the  tobacco  crop  is  raised  in  the  East  but  all  tobacco  is  manufactured  in 

3 


4  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

the  Piedmont,  and  growers  have  shouted  in  anger  both  at  tobacco  prices 
and  corporation  politics.  The  East,  conventional  old  agricultural  plan- 
tation South  of  cash  crops,  Negro  labor,  and  a  straight  Democratic 
ticket,  remains  socially  conservative  while  it  grows  politically  liberal. 
The  Piedmont  is  the  New  South,  up-and-coming,  in  which  the  cleavages 
of  industry  have  flung  up,  out  of  the  same  small  farmer  class,  the  class- 
conscious  worker  and  the  property-conscious  millionaire.  And  beyond 
them  both  the  Mountain  Region,  still  politically  divided  in  memory  of 
Union  and  Confederate  division  in  the  War  between  the  States,  remains 
more  divided  too  in  its  desire  for  industry  like  the  Piedmont's  and  pre- 
occupation with  its  precipitate  earth — rich,  if  sometimes  difficult,  for 
farming  for  living,  and  magnificent  in  its  appeal  to  those  able  to  come  up 
from  the  physically  undramatic  lowlands. 

So  the  North  Carolinian  is  three  North  Carolinians,  at  least  three. 
But  from  Tidewater  to  Tennessee  he  is  the  native  American.  The  North 
Carolinian  has  been  where  he  is  a  long  time,  as  America  counts.  Largely 
English,  with  lesser  infusions  of  German  and  a  large  element  of  Scotch, 
the  white  North  Carolinian,  through  time  and  a  difference  in  environ- 
ment, has  become  three  different  men;  and,  in  addition,  nearly  one-third 
of  the  population  is  Negro. 

The  East  remains  expansive,  leisurely,  interminably  and  excellently 
conversational,  concerned  with  good  living,  devoted  to  pleasure,  politic- 
ally fixed  but  also  politically  philosophical.  Perhaps  the  absence  of  any 
large  cities  has  contributed  to  the  fact  that  the  easterner's  neighborliness 
is  little  short  of  Gargantuan.  Gregarious  in  an  area  not  thickly  settled, 
he  finds  it  a  trifle  to  go  a  hundred  miles  for  a  dance — and  found  it  a  trifle 
even  when  traveling  meant  trains  and  not  the  simplicity  of  automobile 
movement.  His  social  life  is  restricted  to  no  county  or  town.  His  "social 
set"  is  a  whole  population.  And  the  famous  June  Germans  of  Rocky 
Mount,  where  the  hugest  tobacco  warehouse  is  required  for  the  dancing 
multitude,  are  perhaps  the  best  example  of  his — and  her — gregarious, 
nonexclusive  ideal  of  pleasure. 

The  Piedmont  is  another  land.  It  has  always  been  a  more  serious- 
minded  land.  Somehow,  the  Episcopalians,  though  they  are  relatively 
few  in  number,  seem  to  have  marked  the  East,  not  as  a  church  but  as  a 
people.  In  contrast,  the  Piedmont  seems  more  directly  to  have  grown 
from  the  stern  spirits  of  the  Quakers  of  Guilford,  the  Moravians  of  For- 
syth, the  Calvinists  of  Mecklenburg,  the  ubiquitous  Baptists,  and  that 
practical  Methodism  from  which  the  Dukes  emerged.  The  plantation 
disappeared  at  the  fall  line.  Labor  became  increasingly  white.  Leisure 
was  less  highly  regarded,  and  practical  concerns  were  paramount  above 
philosophy,  even  above  pleasure.  Furthermore,  where  there  was  little 
Negro  labor,  there  was  water  falling  in  the  streams.  And,  long  before  the 


TAR     HEELS     ALL 


hydroelectric  plants  of  Duke,  it  did  not  fall  in  vain.  Hard-working,  hard- 
headed  men,  with  no  foreknowledge  of  the  inevitable  change  in  rela- 
tionship from  money  and  land  to  money  and  machinery,  attached  them- 
selves and  their  region  to  the  change.  Doing  so  long  ago,  they  took  the 
Carolina  Piedmont  into  the  direct  stream  of  modern  mechanical  America 
and  built  the  Piedmont  in  North  Carolina  into  an  area  less  distinguished 
for  its  differences  from  than  its  similarities  to  American  industrial  areas 
elsewhere.  Its  people  are  stirring  or  struggling.  Wealth  here  has  more 
sharply  stratified  society  than  in  the  older  and  more  aristocratic  East. 
But  unlike  some  other  industrial  areas,  its  people  are  homogeneous. 
There  are  more  foreign  corporations  than  there  are  foreign  workers. 
The  stock  ticker  has  come  and  also  the  labor  union.  The  region  has  seen 
both  the  efficiency  expert  and  the  "flying  squadron."  It  has  seen  a  great 
deal  of  industrial  money  and  some  industrial  murder.  It  is  modern  and 
American  in  almost  every  familiar  connotation  of  those  terms. 

Perhaps  the  mountains  meet  the  Piedmont  in  those  towns  where  folk 
have  come  from  the  difficulties  of  scratching  a  living  out  of  the  steep 
sides  of  tough  hills  to  the  promised  ease  and  regularity  and  generosity  of 
the  mills.  The  meeting  has  not  always  been  a  happy  one.  Sometimes  it 
has  been  as  violent  as  might  be  expected  in  the  collision  of  the  Eliza- 
bethan and  electricity.  The  mountain  man  is  by  no  means  so  quaint  as 
some  of  the  novelists  have  made  him.  His  isolation  is  seldom  so  com- 
plete as  it  has  been  pictured;  indeed,  some  sentimentalists  spend  them- 
selves weeping  over  its  disappearance.  There  are  movies  in  every  moun- 
tain town.  Good  roads  run  into  a  great  many  mountain  coves.  The  boys 
and  girls  have  gone  out  of  the  valleys  to  the  schools.  And  now  a  good 
many  simple  mountaineers  are  waiting  in  hopefulness  for  some  simple 
tourists.  But  the  characteristics  of  the  mountaineer  remain.  An  individual 
may  emerge  from  isolation  swiftly,  but  a  people  does  not  immediately 
lose  the  characteristics  created  by  long  dwelling  apart.  The  tourist  is  now 
to  be  welcomed,  but  to  come  to  trust  the  stranger  wholly  is  a  more 
gradual  process.  By  no  means  have  all  the  strangers  who  have  gone  into 
the  mountains  in  the  past  been  worthy  of  trust.  And  though  the  battles 
were  not  of  the  proportions  to  reach  the  history  books,  the  divided  moun- 
taineers in  the  War  between  the  States  received  the  undivided  and  in- 
distinguishable attentions  of  undisciplined  bands  of  soldiers  on  both 
sides.  Furthermore,  the  antagonism  in  the  sixties  in  the  mountains  was 
more  personal  and  immediate  than  elsewhere.  There  the  division  be- 
tween the  Union  and  the  Confederacy  might  be  no  wider  than  the  creek 
between  two  men's  houses.  A  man  learned  to  trust  in  himself,  to  share 
his  deeper  thinking  slowly,  to  welcome  warily,  to  mind  his  own  busi- 
ness, and  to  vote  as  his  granddaddy  fought.  He  still  does. 

But  to  reduce  the  North  Carolinian  to  three  North  Carolinians  is  only 


O  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

the  first  step  in  the  reduction  of  generalization  to  particular  fact.  There 
are  diverse  men  among  mountaineers.  Certainly  there  are  plenty  of  dif- 
ferent types  and  classes  and  people  in  the  Piedmont.  In  the  East  they 
are  a  different  folk  who  fish  on  Harkers  Island  from  those  who  plant 
peanuts  in  Bertie.  And  in  each  area  there  are  those  indistinguishable 
men,  worn  to  an  identity  of  shape  and  coloration  by  the  processes  of 
education.  They  are  everywhere,  able,  active,  or  otherwise,  but  unob- 
trusive, unimpressive  in  determining  the  quality  or  character  of  a  native 
civilization. 

There  are,  however,  in  North  Carolina  interesting  groups  which,  with- 
out losing  the  characteristics  of  section,  yet  create  a  unity  that — beyond 
the  uniformity  of  taxes  and  laws — may  very  well  be  called  North  Caro- 
lina. Strongest  of  all,  perhaps,  is  the  alumni  of  the  University  of  North 
Carolina.  This  of  course  does  not  mean  the  body  of  enthusiasts  articulate 
over  football.  Far  more  importantly  it  means  a  group  of  men  in  every 
section  of  the  State  who  have  something  more  than  a  provincial's  sense 
of  the  meaning  of  his  native  land.  From  Battle  and  Winston  through 
Alderman  and  Venable  and  Graham  and  Chase  to  another  Graham,  a 
series  of  able  presidents  has  made  the  institution  in  a  very  real  sense  the 
center  for  an  aristocracy  of  intelligence  that  in  half  a  century  has  trans- 
formed the  State.  In  no  sense  are  these  men  everywhere  in  North  Caro- 
lina steadily  agreed  on  the  directions  that  the  State  should  take.  Personal 
and  sectional  interests  move  them  as  they  do  other  men.  But  in  a  broad 
and  diverse  State  they  know  each  other  and  have  together  a  sense  of  the 
importance  of  their  university  and  the  schools  that  lead  to  its  doors. 
They  were  chiefly  responsible  for  North  Carolina's  educational  advance. 
They  are  responsible  now  for  their  university's  high  integrity  in  free- 
dom. And  that  institution,  more  than  the  capital  at  Raleigh,  is  the  center 
for  the  progressive  idealism  of  the  State. 

The  university  at  Chapel  Hill  serves  as  a  symbol  for  unity  in  aspira- 
tion as  do  few  other  institutions  in  the  country.  Sometimes  regarded  with 
suspicion,  sometimes  attacked  with  bitterness,  the  university  neverthe- 
less is  more  often  held  in  an  almost  pathetic  affection  by  the  State.  North 
Carolina  was  so  long  in  ignorance,  so  long  in  poverty!  Its  people  today 
are  restless  in  the  consciousness  of  their  former  stagnation.  Chapel  Hill, 
no  longer  remote,  embodies  their  aspiration  that  the  vale  may  become 
the  mountain  (if,  indeed,  already  it  has  not!) — that  the  inconsiderable 
people  between  the  two  aristocracies  may  yet  accomplish  a  greater  des- 
tiny than  either. 

North  Carolina,  which  has  never  been  very  long  on  history,  neverthe- 
less remembers  that  when  it  followed  the  aristocracies  into  the  War  be- 
tween the  States  it  provided  certainly  more  privates  and  probably  fewer 
generals  than  any  other  Southern  State.  It  still  is  a  State  of  privates  ready 


TAR     HEELS     ALL 


to  show  scant  respect  to  any  who  rise  pretentiously  among  them.  It  even 
laughs  sometimes  at  its  own  millionaires  and  is  sometimes  glad  to  get 
rid  of  the  public  officials  it  has  elected.  The  North  Carolinian  is,  as  he 
has  always  been,  an  equalitarian  individualist.  And  he  believes  in  the 
possibility  that  he  and  his  fellows  may  advance.  He  is  no  longer  hum- 
bled, if  he  ever  was,  by  the  aristocracy  of  his  neighbors.  He  learned  in 
the  third  decade  of  the  century  to  boast  easily  and  often,  and  he  had 
something  to  boast  about,  not  only  in  the  material  progress  of  road 
building  and  accelerated  industrial  growth,  but  also  in  improved  race 
relations,  better  care  for  the  unfortunate,  better  schools,  and  a  greater 
university.  But  a  depression  placed  in  neat  relation  to  his  progress  taught 
him  much.  He  is  now  less  proud  of  the  distance  he  has  gone  than  aware 
of  the  distance  he  must  go.  He  knows  that  he  has  "the  greatest  State  on 
earth"  and  that  he  is  as  good  as  anybody  in  it.  But  he  is  by  no  means 
sure  that  this  is  good  enough. 


NATURAL       SETTING 


NORTH  CAROLINA,  one  of  the  Thirteen  Colonies  that  formed 
the  original  United  States  of  America,  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  Virginia,  on  the  east  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  on  the  south  by 
South  Carolina  and  Georgia,  and  on  the  west  by  Tennessee.  Except  for 
the  North  Carolina-Virginia  boundary,  which,  with  but  slight  varia- 
tions, runs  due  east  and  west,  the  State's  boundaries  are  irregular.  Situ- 
ated between  latitudes  33 °  27'  37"  N.  and  36 °  34'  25"  N.,  and  longitudes 
750  27'  W.  and  84 °  20'  W.,  the  State  lies  entirely  within  the  warmer  part 
of  the  north  temperate  zone. 

The  extreme  length  of  the  State  from  east  to  west  is  503.25  miles,  and 
from  north  to  south  187.5  miles-  The  average  length  from  east  to  west 
is  approximately  410  miles,  and  from  north  to  south  approximately  115 
miles.  The  State's  total  area  is  52,286  square  miles,  with  48,666  square 
miles  of  land  and  3,620  square  miles  of  water. 

The  population  in  1930  (U.  S.  Census)  was  3,170,276,  of  whom  2,234,- 
948  were  white,  918,647  Negro,  and  16,579  Indian.  North  Carolina 
ranked  twelfth  in  population  among  the  States.  Of  its  inhabitants 
2,360,429  were  classified  as  rural  and  809,847  as  urban.  The  population  of 
the  largest  city  (Charlotte)  was  82,675. 

North  Carolina  is  popularly  known  as  the  Old  North  State  to  distin- 
guish it  from  its  southern  neighbor,  and  as  the  Tar  Heel  State  from  a 
designation  attributed  to  Cornwallis'  soldiers,  who  crossed  a  river  into 
which  tar  had  been  poured,  emerging  with  the  substance  adhering  to 
their  heels. 


Physiography 


Sloping  down  from  the  crest  of  the  Appalachian  system  to  the  Atlantic 
seaboard,  North  Carolina  lies  wholly  within  the  Atlantic  border  region, 
with  its  three  great  natural  divisions:  the  Mountain  Region,  the  Pied- 
mont Plateau,  and  the  Coastal  Plain. 

Nearly  half  of  the  State's  area  lies  in  the  Coastal  Plain,  the  broad 
almost  level,  forested  or  agricultural  "low  country"  extending  from  the 
seacoast  inland  to  the  fall  line.  Its  extreme  eastern  boundary  is  a  long 


NATURAL     SETTING 


chain  of  islands  known  as  "banks,"  a  narrow  barrier  against  the  At- 
lantic. The  banks  are  constantly  shifting  sand  dunes,  which  in  places 
are  only  one  or  two  feet  above  tide  level,  but  which  at  Kill  Devil  Hills 
in  Dare  County  reach  a  height  of  ioo  feet.  From  the  banks  three  famous 
capes  project  into  the  Atlantic:  treacherous  Hatteras,  "graveyard  of  the 
Atlantic,"  and  Lookout  and  Fear  guarding  the  entrances  to  the  State's 
chief  port  towns,  Morehead  City-Beaufort  and  Wilmington.  Between 
the  banks  and  the  shore  a  chain  of  sounds,  including  Pamlico  and  Albe- 
marle, stretches  along  the  State's  entire  320  miles  of  sea  front.  Notable 
among  the  numerous  islands  lying  within  the  sounds  are  Roanoke  and 
Harkers. 

Bordering  the  sounds  on  the  mainland  is  the  Tidewater  area,  a  belt 
from  30  to  80  miles  wide,  where  the  land  is  level  and  sometimes  swampy. 
To  the  north  a  part  of  the  Great  Dismal  Swamp  spreads  across  the  bor- 
der of  Virginia  into  North  Carolina;  and  farther  south,  swamps  in 
Hyde,  Tyrrell,  and  Dare  Counties  cover  some  300  square  miles.  These 
swamplands,  locally  known  as  "dismals"  and  "pocosins,"  occur  on  the 
divides  or  watersheds  between  the  rivers  and  sounds.  In  this  region  are 
15  natural  lakes,  largest  of  which  is  Lake  Mattamuskeet,  near  the  coast 
in  Hyde  County.  Characteristic  of  the  southeast  is  the  savanna,  a  treeless 
prairieland  with  a  thick  growth  of  grass  and  wild  flowers.  The  savannas, 
the  largest  of  which  covers  some  3,000  acres,  have  been  created  by  a  lack 
of  drainage  and  a  close  impervious  soil. 

Many  of  the  largest  rivers  of  the  Coastal  Plain  rise  in  the  western 
Piedmont  and  join  the  sounds  as  broad  estuaries.  To  the  north  are  the 
Roanoke,  rising  in  Piedmont  Virginia,  and  the  Chowan,  formed  by  two 
rivers  which  rise  in  eastern  Virginia.  Draining  the  central  portion  of  the 
plain  are  the  Tar-Pamlico  and  the  Neuse;  to  the  south  is  the  Cape  Fear. 
The  larger  rivers  are  navigable  almost  to  the  border  of  the  Piedmont. 
In  a  series  of  terraces,  the  Coastal  Plain  rises  gradually  from  sea  level  to 
a  height  of  about  500  feet  at  its  western  margin. 

The  fall  line,  at  the  head  of  river  navigation,  marks  the  western  edge 
of  the  Coastal  Plain.  Running  from  Northampton  and  Halifax  Coun- 
ties on  the  Virginia  border,  the  line  extends  in  a  southwesterly  direction 
through  Anson  County  on  the  South  Carolina  border. 

The  Piedmont  Plateau,  extending  from  the  fall  line  west  to  the  Blue 
Ridge,  consists  of  rolling  hill  country,  with  stiff  clay  soils  and  numerous 
swift  streams  capable  of  producing  great  power  for  industrial  and  urban 
development.  In  this  region,  the  most  densely  populated  in  the  State, 
the  Broad,  the  Catawba,  and  the  Yadkin  Rivers,  which  have  their 
sources  on  the  southeastern  slopes  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  pursue  easterly 
courses  until,  after  cutting  gaps  through  the  ridges,  they  turn  southward 
and  flow  into  South  Carolina,  where  the  Catawba  becomes  the  Wateree. 


10  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

At  its  western  edge  the  Piedmont  Plateau  rises  from  1,200  to  1,500  feet 
above  sea  level.  Spurs  from  the  Blue  Ridge  reach  out  eastward  and  south- 
ward, and  a  few  straggling  irregular  ranges  cross  the  breadth  of  the 
plateau. 

The  Blue  Ridge,  or  eastern  Appalachian  chain,  is  a  steep,  ragged 
escarpment  rising  suddenly  above  the  Piedmont.  It  is  followed  by  a 
downward  fold  with  wide  bottom  that  forms  a  plateau  of  more  than 
6,000  square  miles,  with  an  elevation  of  2,000  to  3,000  feet.  This  plateau 
is  bordered  on  the  north  and  west  by  the  Iron,  Stone,  Unaka,  Bald, 
Great  Smoky,  and  Unicoi  Mountains,  all  of  which  are  part  of  the  western 
Appalachian  chain.  Several  cross  chains,  higher  and  more  massive  than 
the  principal  ranges,  cut  the  great  plateau  into  a  checkerboard  of  small 
mountain-framed  areas  with  independent  drainage  systems. 

Both  the  Blue  Ridge  and  the  Great  Smoky  Ranges  reach  their  cul- 
minating heights  in  western  North  Carolina,  and  together  they  consti- 
tute the  greatest  mass  of  mountains  in  the  eastern  half  of  the  United 
States.  More  than  40  peaks  rise  6,000  feet  or  more  above  sea  level.  Among 
these,  Mount  Mitchell,  on  the  Black  Mountain  spur  of  the  Blue  Ridge, 
attains  a  height  of  6,684  feet,  the  highest  elevation  east  of  the  Mississippi. 
Some  80  peaks  are  from  5,000  to  6,000  feet  high,  while  hundreds  are  from 
4,000  to  5,000  feet. 

The  Blue  Ridge,  a  straggling  irregular  mountain  chain,  crosses  the 
State  in  a  northeast-southwest  direction.  Near  the  South  Carolina  border 
it  turns  westward  and  for  a  considerable  distance  forms  the  bound- 
ary between  the  two  Carolinas.  By  a  southwestern  projection  into 
Georgia,  the  range  unites  again  with  the  western  Appalachian  chain, 
to  which  it  approaches  closely  at  its  entry  into  North  Carolina  from 
Virginia. 

The  Great  Smoky  Mountains  bound  the  plateau  with  marked  definite- 
ness  on  the  west,  the  main  chain  forming  the  boundary  between  North 
Carolina  and  Tennessee.  The  mean  altitude  of  the  range  is  higher  than 
that  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  and  some  of  its  peaks  rise  higher  above  their 
bases  than  any  others  in  eastern  America. 

The  crest  of  the  Blue  Ridge  is  the  principal  watershed  within  the 
State.  Rainfall  on  the  eastern  slope  flows  into  the  Atlantic;  from  the 
western  slope  it  reaches  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  by  way  of  the  Mississippi 
River.  Fed  by  many  tributaries,  the  Hiwassee,  the  Little  Tennessee,  and 
the  French  Broad  Rivers  flow  westerly  and  northwesterly  from  the  Blue 
Ridge  into  Tennessee.  Farther  north  the  New  River  flows  through  Vir- 
ginia and  into  the  Ohio  River.  Within  Tennessee,  the  Nolichucky  and 
Pigeon  Rivers  empty  into  the  French  Broad.  The  Elk  and  the  Watauga 
are  important  tributaries  of  the  Holston  River  in  Tennessee. 

Most  of  the  valleys  formed  by  the  streams  of  the  Mountain  Region  are 


NATURAL     SETTING 


deep  and  narrow.  The  gorge  of  the  Little  Tennessee  at  the  foot  of  the 
Great  Smoky  Mountains  is  from  200  to  500- feet  deep.  Large  and  small 
streams  have  many  waterfalls. 


Climate 

The  climate  of  North  Carolina  is  considered  exceptionally  attractive. 
It  is  that  of  the  warm  temperate  zone  modified  by  the  widely  varied 
topography,  with  elevations  ranging  from  sea  level  to  6,684  ^eet-  Periods 
of  extreme  heat  or  cold  are  infrequent  and  do  not  last  long  when  they 
occur.  In  the  coastal  district,  the  proximity  of  the  ocean  has  a  stabilizing 
influence  both  in  diurnal  and  seasonal  changes  of  temperature,  while  it 
also  tends  to  increase  precipitation.  In  the  western  part  of  the  State,  the 
higher  altitudes  are  associated  with  a  lower  temperature  all  the  year 
around,  but  the  mountains  also  act  as  a  partial  barrier  against  cold  waves 
from  the  inland  sections  of  the  country. 

The  mean  annual  temperature  for  the  State  is  59 °F.,  but  it  ranges 
from  48.40  at  Linville  in  the  northwest  to  64.1  °  at  Southport  in  the 
southeastern  corner.  The  mean  temperature  for  winter  is  42 °  and  for 
summer  75  °.  The  Coastal  Plain  has  an  annual  mean  of  62  °,  the  Pied- 
mont of  60  °,  and  the  Mountain  Region  of  55  °.  The  lowest  temperature 
recorded  in  several  decades  was  — 20  °  in  Ashe  County,  and  the  highest 
was  1070  at  Southern  Pines.  The  length  of  the  growing  season  ranges 
from  174  days  in  the  extreme  west  and  northwest  to  295  at  Hatteras,  with 
numerous  local  variations. 

Rainfall  is  abundant  and  well  distributed,  but  with  sharp  local  vari- 
ations, especially  in  the  west.  Annual  precipitation  averages  are  48.47 
inches  for  the  northeastern  section,  47.26  inches  for  the  central  and  south- 
eastern sections,  and  58  inches  for  the  Piedmont  and  Mountain  Region. 
The  highest  rainfall  in  the  State  is  near  Highlands  in  Macon  County, 
where  the  average  for  many  decades  is  82.41  inches,  and  where  as  much 
as  1 1 1.20  inches  have  been  recorded  in  a  single  year.  Yet  the  lowest  rain- 
fall in  the  State  is  recorded  only  50  miles  away,  at  Marshall,  where  the 
average  annual  is  39.08.  The  snowfall  in  the  western  half  of  the  State 
varies  from  4  inches  at  Monroe  to  47  inches  near  the  Tennessee  border 
in  Ashe  County. 

Flora 

Because  of  its  widely  diversified  topography  and  climate,  North  Caro- 
lina contains  examples  of  nearly  all  the  major  types  of  vegetation  found 
in  the  eastern  United  States.  No  farther  apart  than  a  day's  motor  drive 


12  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

are  the  subtropical  palmetto,  wild  olive,  and  live  oak  of  the  coast  and 
the  balsam-spruce  forests  of  the  high  mountaintops. 

In  contrast  to  the  rocky  shore  of  New  England  is  the  unbroken  stretch 
of  shifting  dunes  along  the  North  Carolina  coast,  where  the  trees  and 
grasses  must  resist  wind  and  moving  sand.  Characteristic  of  these  dunes 
is  the  sea  oat,  a  tall  and  slender  grass,  ripening  in  August  to  golden 
plumes;  the  sea  elder,  a  low  shrub  which  grows  in  bright  green  clumps, 
and  the  seakale,  with  fleshy  leaves  from  which  water  may  be  squeezed. 
On  the  landward  side  of  the  dunes  grow  the  short  wiry  saltgrass,  sea- 
beach  grass,  seaside  evening-primrose,  and  dune  groundcherry.  About 
the  seacoast  towns,  growing  like  weeds,  are  the  gaillardia,  Mexican- 
poppy,  and  other  foreign  plants  brought  over  in  ballast  earth.  On  Smith 
Island,  at  the  mouth  of  Cape  Fear  River,  the  seaside  forest  is  at  its  best. 
Most  beautiful  is  the  live  oak,  with  its  bent  and  twisted  trunk  and 
branches,  and  its  small  evergreen  leaves.  Beneath  the  oaks  grow  dog- 
wood, redbay,  wild  olive,  and  the  yaupon,  a  holly  with  shiny  boxlike 
leaves  and  clusters  of  red  berries.  Here,  too,  grows  the  palmetto,  which 
journeyed  up  the  coast  from  Florida  in  ages  past. 

The  vast  salt  marshes  on  the  eastern  seaboard  are  covered  with  nar- 
row-leaved grasses  that  give  them  the  appearance  of  prairie  lands.  Here 
grow  the  marsh  morning-glory  and  aster,  sea-lavender,  sea-oxeye,  and 
samphire,  a  leafless  plant  decorated  with  brilliant  red  in  the  fall. 

The  plants  of  the  fresh-water  marshes  vary  with  the  depth  of  the 
water.  Cattails,  arrowheads,  ricegrass,  parrotfeathers,  and  lizardtails 
dominate  the  landscape,  and  scattered  communities  of  wild  flowers  touch 
the  marshes  with  brilliant  hues.  Along  the  borders  grow  bluebells, 
clematis,  and  the  marsh  dayflower,  of  a  sky-blue  color. 

The  swamp  forests  are  a  distinctly  southern  plant  community.  Most 
picturesque  is  the  somber  cypress,  with  its  hanging  moss  and  its  knobby 
root  projections,  or  "knees,"  which  actually  are  lungs  that  carry  oxygen 
to  the  roots  below  the  water.  Along  with  the  cypress,  gum  and  white 
cedar  dominate  the  swamp  forests,  in  which  also  grow  the  swamp  red- 
maple,  pumpkin  and  pop  ashes,  and  swamp  hickory.  On  the  margins 
the  sweetgum,  dogwood,  and  possumhaw  are  common. 

The  lakes,  ponds,  and  fresh-water  sounds  of  eastern  North  Carolina 
are  rich  in  aquatic  vegetation.  A  common  plant  on  the  Coastal  Plain 
rivers  and  ponds  is  the  spatterdock,  which  has  arrow-shaped  leaves  and 
greenish-yellow  flowers  that  float  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  shape- 
less lettucelike  leaves  below.  The  tapegrass  sends  its  seedbearing  flower 
above  the  water  and  produces  below  the  surface  its  staminate  flower, 
which  is  cut  loose  when  mature.  Dwarf  duckweed,  smallest  of  all 
flowering  plants,  floats  on  the  water.  Common  are  the  many  species  of 
bladderwort,  which  has  a  trap  door  to  entice  small  forms  of  animal  life. 


JOCKEY  S    RIDGE,    NAGS    HEAD 


OLD  HATTERAS  LIGHT  AT  DAWN 


■■— 


YAUPON  TREE  AND  BANKS  PONY 


FRISCO  ON  THE  BANKS 


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DISAPPEARING   ROAD,  SMITH   ISLAND 


LONG-LEAF   PINE  AND  DOGWOOD,  NEAR  PINEHURST 


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LAKE  LURE  FROM   CHIMNEY  ROCK 


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GRANDFATHER  MOUNTAIN   FROM  LINVILLE 


MOUNT  MITCHELL  FRAMED    IN  RHODODENDRON 


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MOUNTAIN   FARM,   HAYWOOD  COUNTY 


DAWN  IN  NANTAHALA  GORGE 


NATURAL    SETTING  13 

The  abundance  of  pondweed,  a  favorite  duck  food,  has  made  certain 
North  Carolina  waters,  particularly  Currituck  Sound,  the  haunt  of  great 
numbers  of  wild  fowl. 

The  evergreen-shrub  bogs  of  eastern  North  Carolina,  known  also  as 
"pocosins"  and  "bays,"  are  even  in  midwinter  a  dense  tangle  of  green- 
ery. Broad-leaved  bushes  stand  waist-high  in  the  soggy  soil,  and  reeds 
and  cane  form  thick  brakes.  One  of  the  most  common  bog  plants  is  the 
gallberry,  closely  related  to  the  Christmas  holly,  and  valuable  for  its  nec- 
tar. Most  beautiful  of  the  small  trees  in  the  State,  and  one  of  the  few 
large  woody  plants  in  the  bog,  is  the  loblolly-bay,  with  evergreen  leaves 
and  large  white  scented  flowers  that  suggest  the  magnolia.  Best  known, 
perhaps,  is  the  sweetbay,  a  true  magnolia,  whose  flowers  have  a  penetrat- 
ing fragrance.  Among  the  beautiful  bog  flowers  is  the  honeycup,  with 
its  pendant  bells. 

On  the  lower  Coastal  Plain  are  the  great  savannas,  or  sedge  bogs, 
famous  for  the  beauty  and  variety  of  their  wild  flowers,  and  offering  a 
pageant  of  bloom  for  every  month  in  the  year  but  January.  In  the  stiqky 
black  soil  of  these  bogs  grow  the  insectivorous  trumpet,  pitcherplant,  and 
sundew.  Most  famous  of  these  plants  is  the  Venus's-flytrap,  which  is 
fairly  abundant  within  a  radius  of  75  miles  of  the  city  of  Wilmington. 
It  is  not  known  to  grow  wild  in  any  part  of  the  world  except  the  seacoast 
Carolinas. 

On  the  dry  and  coarse  sand  uplands  of  the  southern  half  of  the  Coastal 
Plain  once  stood  magnificent  forests  of  longleaf  pine  that  furnished  resin 
and  turpentine  for  the  great  naval-stores  industry  of  former  days.  Since 
the  reduction  of  the  pine  by  lumbering,  turpentining,  and  fire,  the  Sand- 
hills are  dominated  by  the  turkey  oak  and  the  slender  stiff-leaved  wire- 
grass.  Among  the  common  wild  flowers  of  the  Sandhills  are  violets,  iris, 
pyxie  moss,  moss  pinks  (a  favorite  rock-garden  plant),  and  the  spider- 
wort,  with  its  three-petaled  rose-colored  blossoms. 

Old-field  plant  communities,  nature's  attempt  to  revegetate  waste- 
lands, are  a  common  sight  where  farmers  have  left  old  fields  for  new. 
Crabgrass,  ragweed,  goldenrod,  and  horseweed  spread  in  succession 
across  abandoned  fields,  to  be  followed  and  conquered  by  the  ubiquitous 
broomsedge.  In  the  Piedmont  and  Mountain  Regions  the  paintbrush, 
wild  carrot,  yellow  lily,  evening-primrose,  daisy,  and  aster  make  the 
fields  colorful.  After  the  weeds  come  the  pines,  which  have  taken  pos- 
session of  so  many  of  the  old  fields  in  the  State. 

Greatest  of  all  plant  communities  in  the  State  in  size,  diversity  of 
structure,  and  number  of  species  is  the  upland  forest  of  broad-leaved  and 
coniferous  trees.  Once  forests  dominated  the  whole  State;  today  most 
of  the  virgin  timber  that  remains  is  in  Great  Smoky  Mountains  National 
Park  and  the  Nantahala  National  Forest.  Magnificent  spruce  and  balsam 


14  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

forests  have  been  cut  away,  and  the  once-abundant  chestnut  has  been 
almost  destroyed  by  blight;  but  on  the  vast  slopes  of  the  Smokies  still 
are  forests  like  those  the  pioneers  knew.  Within  the  park  are  143  species 
of  trees,  with  a  splendid  stand  of  spruce  covering  50,000  acres.  The  domi- 
nant hardwoods  are  red  and  white  oak,  yellow  poplar,  hickory,  maple, 
and  basswood.  The  redbud  and  dogwood,  both  flowering  trees,  are 
widely  distributed.  Most  beautiful  of  the  mountain  shrubs  are  the  flame 
azalea,  ranging  in  color  tones  from  pure  white  through  orange  to 
deepest  red,  the  laurel,  with  its  polka-dot  flowers,  and  the  great  rhodo- 
dendron. 

The  largest  areas  of  boreal  forest  in  the  southern  Appalachians  lie 
within  the  boundaries  of  North  Carolina.  In  these  high  forests  grow 
the  balsam  and  red  spruce,  and  beneath  them  the  forest  floor  is  covered 
with  a  thick  mat  of  tree  moss,  brightened  in  summer  with  flowers  of 
the  pink  oxalis.  Widely  scattered  over  the  high  mountain  ridges  are  the 
"balds" — strange  treeless  areas,  some  of  them  dominated  by  the  beauti- 
ful rose-colored  rhododendron,  the  laurel,  and  the  azalea,  others  by  only 
grass  or  sedge. 

Fauna 

Just  as  botanists  were  early  attracted  by  the  great  variety  of  both 
northern  and  southern  species  of  plants  within  the  borders  of  North 
Carolina,  many  scientists,  including  the  Swiss-American  Agassiz,  found 
the  animal  life  of  the  State  no  less  varied  and  interesting. 

As  late  as  the  middle  of  the  18th  century  wild  game  was  abundant  in 
the  State.  In  1760  the  Moravians  recorded  many  bears  and  wolves  about 
their  settlement  in  the  Piedmont  section  and  "a  roosting  place  of  wild 
pigeons  of  which  they  killed  1200." 

Today  there  is  no  longer  the  abundance  of  wildlife  described  by  the 
early  settlers.  Gone  like  the  primeval  forests  are  the  bison,  elk,  and  wolf. 
Only  two  large  quadrupeds  survive  in  any  numbers,  the  black  or  hog 
bear  and  the  Virginia  deer.  The  former  is  found  in  the  wilder  mountain 
areas,  and  in  the  heavy  swamps  of  the  low  country.  The  latter  is  still 
abundant  in  parts  of  the  low  country  and  in  some  parts  of  the  moun- 
tains. 

Of  small  animals,  rabbits  are  the  most  numerous.  In  the  high  moun- 
tains lives  the  New  England  cottontail,  and  in  the  low  country  the 
eastern  cottontail.  On  the  coast  and  along  the  river  swamps  is  the  marsh 
rabbit,  which  takes  to  the  water  when  necessary. 

The  rice  rat  of  the  coastal  marshes  and  river  bottoms  looks  like  a 
young  house  rat  but  has  aquatic  habits.  Florida  wood  rats  live  in  small 
colonies  among  the  river  swamps  in  the  southern  part  of  the  coast  coun- 


NATURAL    SETTING  15 

try.  The  muskrat  is  to  be  found  in  the  northeast  and  in  many  inland 
localities.  Outnumbering  all  of  these  are  the  heavy-set  gray  gopher  rats 
of  the  hedges  and  fields.  In  the  high  mountains  live  the  Cloudland 
white-footed  or  deer  mouse,  the  Carolina  red-backed  vole,  and  the  rarer 
lemming.  The  common  gray  or  cat  squirrel  and  the  flying  squirrel  range 
from  one  end  of  the  State  to  the  other.  The  red  squirrel  or  "boomer" 
lives  only  in  the  mountains.  The  swamp  ridges  and  coastal  islands  are 
the  home  of  the  handsome  southern  fox  squirrel. 

Among  fur-bearing  animals  of  the  State  are  the  opossum,  raccoon, 
mink,  gray  fox,  and  red  fox.  Wildcats  are  still  numerous  in  the  moun- 
tains. Both  the  weasel  and  the  common  skunk  are  found  from  the  Moun- 
tain Region  to  the  Coastal  Plain,  but  they  are  rare.  The  otter  is  even 
less  common,  and  needs  protection  if  it  is  to  be  saved. 

Of  all  Carolina  marine  mammals,  the  bottle-nosed  dolphin  is  best 
known.  This  "porpoise,"  as  he  is  called  by  the  native  Carolinian,  is  often 
to  be  seen  rolling  along  just  beyond  the  surf,  usually  in  company  with 
others  of  his  kind.  A  whale  of  any  size  in  Carolina  waters  now  attracts 
considerable  notice,  but  the  common  dolphins  and  larger  pilot  whales 
are  often  seen.  Sometimes  a  whole  school  of  pilot  whales  is  trapped  in 
shoal  water  and  washed  ashore. 

Off  the  shores  of  the  low  country,  both  within  the  sounds  and  outside 
the  great  barrier  reef,  are  many  varieties  of  fish.  Cape  Hatteras,  where  the 
warm  Gulf  Stream  leaves  the  Atlantic  coast  and  turns  northeast,  marks 
the  dividing  line  in  coastal  waters  between  the  habitat  of  cold-water 
fishes  such  as  the  common  mackerel,  sea  herring,  cod,  and  haddock, 
and  that  of  the  warm-water  fishes  such  as  snapper,  Spanish  mackerel, 
and  great  barracuda.  In  the  northern  sounds,  Currituck  and  Albe- 
marle, which  are  almost  entirely  fresh-water,  live  the  perches  and  the 
large -mouthed  bass,  and  here  the  rockfish,  shad,  and  alewife  come  to 
spawn.  Pamlico,  a  salt  sound,  has  an  abundance  of  ocean  fishes,  includ- 
ing the  weakfish,  menhaden,  croaker,  and  bluefish.  Off  Cape  Lookout 
are  many  sharks,  rays,  sailfish,  large  and  small  barracuda,  and  devilfish. 
In  the  fresh-water  streams  and  lakes  of  the  mountains,  the  brook  or 
speckled  trout  is  native.  At  lower  altitudes  rainbow  and  brown  trout 
are  found.  A  favorite  game  fish  is  the  large-mouthed  black  bass.  Pe- 
culiar to  North  Carolina  waters  is  the  striped  catfish,  or  "penitentiary 
cat." 

Among  the  reptiles  of  North  Carolina  are  many  turtles.  The  logger- 
head, which  weighs  from  250  to  500  pounds  when  mature,  lives  in  the 
sea  and  lays  its  eggs  on  the  beach.  The  diamondbacked  terrapin  is  found 
only  in  the  coast  marshes;  while  the  familiar  box  turtle  makes  its  home 
in  the  damp  woods.  The  only  snapping  turtle  of  North  Carolina  lives  in 
fresh  water  and  sometimes  reaches  a  weight  of  25  pounds.  It  is  palatable, 


l6  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

but  difficult  to  catch.  Two  other  fresh-water  turtles  are  the  mud  turtle 
and  the  musk  turtle.  In  the  low  country  are  a  few  alligators  and,  among 
the  smaller  saurians,  the  American  chameleon  and  the  red-headed  lizard, 
known  locally  as  the  "scorpion."  The  many  members  of  the  snake  family 
include  some  that  are  venomous:  the  diamondbacked,  timber,  and 
ground  rattlers;  the  copperhead,  and  the  cottonmouth  moccasin.  Most 
deadly  is  the  coral  snake,  found  only  in  the  southeastern  corner  of  the 
State,  and  sometimes  turned  up  in  plowing  fields.  This  beautiful  reptile, 
striped  with  black,  red,  and  yellow,  is  capable  of  retaining  its  hold  after 
it  strikes.  Valuable  as  a  killer  of  pests  is  the  harmless  king  snake,  which 
seems  immune  to  the  venom  of  other  snakes. 

The  birds  of  North  Carolina  are  still  numerous,  although  many  spe- 
cies noted  by  early  travelers  and  naturalists  are  now  rare;  and  some,  like 
the  Carolina  paroquet  and  the  great  ivory-billed  woodpecker,  are  seen 
no  more.  Captain  Barlow,  in  1584,  saw  the  herons  rise  from  Roanoke 
Island  in  such  numbers  that  their  cries  sounded  "as  if  an  army  of  men 
had  shouted  together."  Thomas  Harriot,  in  1586,  saw  "turkey  cocks  and 
turkey  hens,  stock  doves,  partridges,  cranes  and  herons,  and  in  winter 
great  store  of  swan  and  geese  .  .  .  also  parrots,  falcons  and  merlinbaws." 

Today  the  coast  has  numerous  winter  and  summer  bird  residents. 
Among  summer  birds  are  the  little  blue  heron  and  the  Louisiana  heron, 
known  for  its  grace  as  the  "lady  of  the  waters."  The  Florida  cormorants, 
which  feed  on  eels,  like  to  build  in  cypress  trees  that  stand  out  in  lakes, 
or  in  pines  along  the  shore.  Fish  crows  often  build  near  heron  and  cor- 
morant colonies,  depending  for  food  not  only  on  fish  and  crabs  but  also 
on  eggs  and  young  from  the  nests. 

Ospreys,  or  fish  hawks,  have  favorite  breeding  places  at  Great  Lake 
in  Craven  County  and  at  Orton  Plantation  in  Brunswick  County.  In 
the  tops  of  cypress  trees  growing  far  out  in  the  water  they  build  enor- 
mous nests,  which  they  enlarge  from  year  to  year  until  some  of  the  nests 
appear  big  enough  to  fill  a  farm  cart.  Currituck  Sound  swarms  with 
ducks,  geese,  and  swans.  Among  the  latter  is  the  beautiful  whistling 
swan,  seen  in  few  other  places  on  the  American  coast. 

The  rare  egret  still  breeds  in  a  few  protected  places  along  the  coast, 
building  its  nest  high  in  cypress  trees.  This  beautiful  bird  was  almost 
entirely  sacrificed  in  the  interest  of  the  millinery  trade,  which  once  val- 
ued its  plumes. 

King  of  the  sand  beaches  is  the  conspicuous  oyster-catcher,  known  in 
Carolina  as  the  "clam  bird,"  brown-black  and  white  in  plumage,  with 
brilliant  vermilion  bill,  red  eyelids,  and  large  yellow  eyes.  Among  other 
typical  coast  residents  is  Marion's  marsh  wren,  which  builds  in  rushes 
and  cattails.  The  loud  rattling  call  of  the  clapperrail  and  the  musical 
note  of  the  piping  plover,  a  small  bird  with  protective  coloring  like  that 


NATURAL    SETTING  V] 

of  the  shells  and  sand,  are  familiar  sounds  along  the  shore.  Like  the  cries 
of  a  pack  of  hunting  hounds  are  those  of  a  flock  of  black  skimmers,  flying 
over  the  water  and  cutting  it  with  knifelike  bills  whenever  they  find  fish. 

Up  and  down  the  length  of  the  coast  range  the  boat-tailed  grackles, 
known  in  North  Carolina  as  "jackdaws."  They  eat  small  shrimps  and 
crabs  washed  up  on  the  beaches.  Another  summer  shore  bird  is  the  willet, 
a  large  sandpiper  that  likes  the  mud  flats.  The  eggs  of  the  willet  being 
used  for  food  by  coast  dwellers,  this  bird  is  becoming  rare. 

Seen  only  in  Brunswick  County,  in  the  southeastern  corner  of  the 
State,  is  the  water  turkey.  This  great  bird  is  glossy  black  in  color,  with 
greenish  tinges.  He  builds  his  nest  of  sticks  and  twigs  and  lines  it  with 
moss,  but  he  has  rarely  been  known  to  breed  in  this  State. 

Gay  summer  visitor  to  the  coast  is  the  painted  bunting,  or  nonpareil, 
which  ranges  from  Beaufort  south.  The  beautiful  prothonotary  warbler, 
rich  orange  and  yellow  in  color,  loves  the  water  and  chooses  to  live  in 
cypress  swamps  or  by  sluggish  streams,  where  he  nests  in  holes  in  trees 
and  stumps.  He,  too,  is  a  summer  visitor,  as  is  also  Swainson's  warbler, 
a  cinnamon-brown  bird  of  the  canebrakes. 

Among  the  birds  of  the  inland  Coastal  Plain,  chuck-will's-widow  is 
familiar  over  the  whole  eastern  part  of  the  State.  Just  as  familiar  is  the 
red-cockaded  woodpecker  of  the  Coastal  Plain  pine  woods,  often  found 
in  small  flocks.  He  has  black  and  white  bars  on  his  back,  and  (in  the 
male)  a  little  red  patch  on  each  side  of  the  head. 

Many  birds  common  to  the  inland  Coastal  Plain  are  found  also  in  the 
central  part  of  the  State:  Bachman's  sparrow,  summer  tanager  or  "sum- 
mer redbird"  (a  sweet  singer  and  lover  of  groves),  brown-headed  nut- 
hatch, orchard  oriole,  blue  grosbeak,  black  vulture,  pine  warbler,  prairie 
warbler,  and  yellow-throated  warbler. 

The  mockingbird  is  common  throughout  the  State  and  lives  in  the  cen- 
tral and  eastern  sections  the  year  around.  A  master  singer,  he  can  imi- 
tate the  notes  of  other  birds  to  perfection.  The  yellow  warbler,  redstart, 
goldfinch,  and  nocturnal  whippoorwill  are  seldom  seen  in  the  east  in 
summer,  but  range  over  the  Piedmont  and  west  of  it.  The  yellow  warbler, 
lover  of  orchards  and  upland  groves,  comes  from  the  south  in  the  middle 
of  April  and  builds  a  warm  nest,  often  lining  it  with  horsehair.  The 
goldfinch — also  called  lettuce  bird,  wild  canary,  and  thistlebird — is  a 
winter  visitor  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  State,  and  a  common  summer 
resident  of  the  central  portion. 

The  Carolina  wren,  sometimes  called  the  "mocking  wren,"  is  one  of 
the  best-known  birds  at  all  seasons  and  in  all  parts  of  the  State.  Its  loud 
ringing  song,  heard  the  year  around,  is  sometimes  translated  "jo-reeper, 
jo-reeper,  jo-ree,"  sometimes  "freedom,  freedom,  freedom."  The  Caro- 
lina chickadee  or  "tomtit,"  like  the  wren,  is  seen  at  all  seasons  through- 


l8  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

out  the  State,  except  on  the  summits  of  high  mountains.  It  is  one  of  the 
best  insect  destroyers  and  among  the  liveliest  of  birds. 

The  southern  hairy  woodpecker  and  the  slightly  smaller  southern 
downy  woodpecker  live  the  year  around  in  the  higher  mountains  and  are 
great  insect  catchers.  The  flicker,  or  golden-winged  woodpecker,  likes 
to  feed  on  the  ground;  ants  form  a  large  part  of  his  diet.  The  worm-eat- 
ing warbler,  Kentucky  warbler,  hooded  warbler,  and  Louisiana  water 
thrush  are  all  found  in  the  Mountain  Region,  although  not  above  eleva- 
tions of  4,000  feet. 

Among  the  characteristic  breeding  birds  of  elevations  above  2,500  feet 
and  below  4,500  is  Wilson's  thrush  (the  veery),  whose  late  evening  songs 
are  especially  beautiful.  Bewick's  wren,  a  small  bird  with  a  long  black 
tail,  is  a  common  mountain  visitor  and  likes  human  habitations.  Its 
musical  song  is  somewhat  like  that  of  the  song  sparrow.  Cairns'  war- 
bler has  been  known  to  nest  as  high  as  6,000  feet.  Among  the  character- 
istic warblers  are  the  black-throated  green  warbler,  chestnut-sided 
warbler,  blackburnian  warbler,  golden-winged  warbler,  and  Canadian 
warbler. 

Many  birds  spend  the  breeding  season  on  the  tops  of  the  higher  moun- 
tains, above  an  elevation  of  4,000  feet.  The  golden-crowned  kinglet  is  a 
summer  visitor  that  builds  its  nest  of  moss  and  lichens  among  the  spruce 
twigs.  The  red-breasted  nuthatch  goes  in  small  flocks,  and  builds  in  dead 
trees,  lining  its  nest  with  grass.  The  black-capped  chickadee  supplants 
the  Carolina  chickadee  on  the  higher  mountaintops.  The  brown  creeper 
is  found  over  the  whole  State  in  winter,  but  breeds  on  the  higher  moun- 
tains. The  winter  wren,  deep  reddish-brown  in  color,  is  an  alert  little 
bird  with  a  stumpy  tail  that  sticks  up  at  a  right  angle.  The  pine  siskin 
has  plumage  streaked  with  brown  and  suffused  with  yellow  during  the 
breeding  season.  It  breeds  in  the  high  mountains,  going  in  flocks  and 
feeding  on  seeds  and  berries.  The  crossbills  also  travel  in  flocks  and  feed 
on  berries.  The  male  is  brick  red,  the  female  brownish  washed  with  yel- 
low; they  nest  while  snow  is  on  the  ground,  building  in  coniferous  trees. 
The  raven,  once  known  to  the  coast,  is  now  found  only  in  the  moun- 
tains, where  it  builds  among  inaccessible  cliffs,  using  the  small  nest  for 
years.  It  feeds  on  carrion,  small  mammals,  snails,  and  young  birds. 
Golden  eagles  have  been  found  on  the  coast  but  are  more  often  seen  in 
the  high  mountains.  Above  an  elevation  of  about  3,700  feet  lives  the 
Carolina  junco,  or  snowbird,  common  in  the  streets  and  gardens  of 
mountain  towns  and  found  all  over  the  State  in  winter. 

Many  birds  that  were  nearing  extinction  have  been  saved  by  State 
protection.  The  wild  turkey  and  ruffed  grouse  are  increasing,  and  quail 
have  become  numerous  again.  Migratory  waterfowl  in  great  numbers 
visit  the  feeding  grounds  provided  among  the  sounds  and  about  the 


NATURAL    SETTING  19 

lakes  of  eastern  North  Carolina.  This  State,  like  others,  is  attempting 
by  means  of  game  refuges  and  national  forests  to  restore  the  wildlife  of 
which  man  has  been  thus  far  so  careless. 


Natural  Resources 

When  in  1629  Charles  I  granted  to  Sir  Robert  Heath  the  territory  out 
of  which  later  the  State  of  North  Carolina  was  formed,  his  vision  of  the 
rich  resources  of  that  land  were  embodied  in  the  patent  itself,  for  he  gave 
to  Sir  Robert  not  only  the  land  but  "the  ports  &  stations  of  shippes  &  the 
Creeks  of  the  sea  belonging  to  the  Rivers,  Islands  &  lands  aforesaid; 
with  the  fishings  of  all  sorts  of  fish,  whales,  sturgeons  &  of  other  Royal- 
ties in  the  sea  or  in  the  rivers  moreover  all  veines,  mines  or  pits  either 
upon  or  conceald  of  Gold,  Silver  Jewells  &  precious  stones  &  all  other 
things  whatsoever,  whether  of  stones  or  metalls  or  any  other  thing  or 
matter  found  ...  in  the  Region." 

The  years  have  proved  that  the  greatest  resources  of  North  Carolina 
were  not  those  "conceald"  below  ground,  but  the  fertile  soil,  the  timber, 
the  streams  that  offered  water  power,  the  abundant  wild  game,  and  the 
"Royaltyes  in  the  sea."  Chiefly  an  agricultural  State,  North  Carolina  has 
the  advantages  of  a  long  growing  season,  an  abundant  rainfall,  and  al- 
most every  variety  of  soil.  The  full  possibilities  for  diversified  farming 
have  not  yet  been  realized,  although  the  State  ranks  high  in  value  of 
farm  products. 

Forests.  The  forests  of  North  Carolina  contain  more  kinds  of  trees 
than  grow  in  the  whole  of  Europe.  Not  only  were  the  vast  original  for- 
ests of  interest  to  science,  but  their  commercial  value  led  early  to  exploi- 
tation with  little  regard  for  the  future.  The  State  geologist  pointed  out  in 
1875  that  people  had  accustomed  themselves  for  generations  to  "treat 
the  forests  as  a  natural  enemy,  to  be  extirpated,  like  their  original  deni- 
zens, human  and  feral,  by  all  means  and  at  any  cost."  Only  recently  has 
the  State  seriously  considered  its  forests  as  valuable  resources. 

In  the  Coastal  Plain,  and  extending  into  the  Piedmont,  is  the  southern 
forest  belt,  covering  12  million  acres,  where  the  dominant  species  are 
second-growth  longleaf  and  loblolly  pine.  Loblolly  or  "old-field"  pine  is 
the  chief  commercial  tree  of  the  region,  and  on  the  dry  sandy  soil  of  the 
plain  replaces  once  magnificent  forests  of  longleaf  pine.  In  the  hardwood 
bottoms  grow  oak,  hickory,  ash,  sweetgum,  and  blackgum,  while  in  the 
deeper  swamplands  are  gum,  cypress,  and  white  cedar  (locally  known  as 
juniper). 

The  central  hardwood  belt  lies  in  the  Piedmont  Plateau  and  comprises 
some  4,500,000  acres.  The  hardwoods  are  red  and  white  oak,  hickory, 


20  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

and  yellow  poplar,  but  much  of  this  region  that  was  once  cultivated  now 
supports  second-growth  shortleaf  and  Jersey  scrub  pine. 

The  northern  forest  of  the  Mountain  Region  is  distinguished  for  great 
variety  of  species.  From  the  plateau  forests  to  an  elevation  of  about  4,500 
feet  there  is  a  mixed  hardwood  growth,  with  some  hemlock,  white  pine, 
and  three  species  of  yellow  pine.  The  principal  hardwoods  include  red 
and  white  oak,  yellow  poplar,  hickory,  maple,  and  basswood.  Little  of 
the  original  chestnut,  ash,  cherry,  walnut,  and  locust  remains.  The  soft- 
woods, largely  cut  out,  are  returning  in  second  growth. 

In  1935,  North  Carolina  had  699  industrial  establishments  using  wood 
as  a  basic  element  in  manufacture;  and  the  products  of  these  establish- 
ments in  that  year  were  valued  at  more  than  65  million  dollars.  Lumber- 
ing operations  reached  their  peak  in  1909,  when  North  Carolina  ranked 
fourth  among  the  States  in  lumber  production.  In  1935  it  ranked  only 
tenth,  although  the  State  contains  more  than  13  billion  board  feet  of 
marketable  timber.  Tanning  extract  has  taken  a  heavy  toll  of  chestnut, 
hemlock,  and  oak.  Pulp  manufacture  is  increasing.  In  the  smaller  in- 
dustries pine,  chestnut,  and  juniper  furnish  material  for  poles,  white 
oak  for  railroad  crossties,  and  cypress,  juniper,  and  pine  for  shingles. 
The  indigenous  chestnut  is  believed  to  be  doomed  by  the  blight. 

Extensive  areas  for  national  forests  have  been  purchased  by  the  Federal 
Government  in  North  Carolina  (see  national  forests)  .  Originally  in- 
tended to  protect  the  great  watersheds,  the  purpose  of  the  national  for- 
ests has  been  expanded  to  include  purchase  and  reforestation  of  denuded 
lands,  improvement  of  timber  stands,  prevention  and  control  of  fire  and 
disease,  and  the  establishment  of  a  sustained  yield. 

Many  agencies  have  been  engaged  in  reforestation  work  in  this  State. 
The  division  of  forestry,  under  the  State  Department  of  Conservation 
and  Development,  administers  the  forest  fire  control  program  and  other 
phases  of  forestry.  The  forestry  department  of  the  State  College  of  Agri- 
culture and  Engineering  owns  and  cultivates  87,000  acres  of  forest  land 
for  furthering  studies  in  forest  development.  The  National  Resettlement 
Administration  has  established  projects  for  reforestation,  and  has  under- 
taken the  purchase  of  100,000  acres  of  submarginal  land  in  Richmond, 
Moore,  Scotland,  Hoke,  and  Bladen  Counties.  Camps  of  the  Civilian 
Conservation  Corps  in  the  State  have  been  an  important  force  in  fire 
protection  and  reforestation,  and  the  Resettlement  Administration  has 
made  progress  in  reclaiming  an  area  near  Murphy,  which  copper- 
smelting  operations  had  reduced  to  a  desert. 

The  development  of  pulp  and  paper  manufacture,  the  cellulose  in- 
dustry, and  the  production  of  chemicals  from  wood  are  indicative  of  the 
increased  commercial  importance  of  North  Carolina  forests. 

Minerals.    Early  explorers  in  North  Carolina  regarded  with  interest 


NATURAL    SETTING  21 

the  few  tobacco  pipes  "tipt  with  silver"  and  the  copper  ornaments  that 
the  Indians  possessed,  and  hoped  to  secure  for  themselves  treasures  of 
gold,  silver,  and  jewels.  Further  exploration  revealed  that  North  Caro- 
lina is  a  laboratory  for  geologists  and  also  offers  opportunities  for  the 
commercial  development  of  a  number  of  minerals.  Although  some  300 
minerals  are  found  within  its  borders,  North  Carolina  ranks  only  thirty- 
seventh  among  the  States  in  mineral  production,  due  largely  to  insuf- 
ficient exploitation. 

As  early  as  1729,  small  shipments  of  iron  were  made  from  this  State 
to  England,  but  iron  deposits  are  widely  scattered  and  most  of  them  are 
low-grade.  The  only  production  of  iron  ore  in  1938  was  at  the  Cranberry 
Mine,  in  Avery  County,  which  was  opened  before  the  War  between  the 
States  and  supplied  iron  to  the  Confederacy.  It  has  been  estimated,  how- 
ever, that  there  are  six  million  tons  of  commercial  ore  near  the  surface 
in  Cherokee  County,  as  yet  undeveloped.  Coal  is  likewise  lacking  in  any 
quantity;  the  largest  deposit  is  the  Deep  River  field,  extending  from  the 
southern  part  of  Chatham  County  10  or  12  miles  into  the  northern  part 
of  Moore  and  Lee  Counties. 

One  of  the  few  tin  deposits  in  the  United  States  occurs  in  North  Caro- 
lina in  a  belt  extending  from  a  point  two  miles  northeast  of  Grover, 
through  the  town  of  Kings  Mountain,  and  northeast  to  Beaverdam 
Creek,  near  Lincolnton.  Copper  ores  have  been  found  in  considerable 
quantity  in  four  areas,  and  in  1929  the  Fontana  Mine  in  Swain  County 
and  the  Cullowhee  Mine  in  Jackson  County  produced  15  million 
pounds.  The  only  copper  production  at  present  is  in  Swain  County, 
although  mines  in  15  different  counties  have  produced  ore  in  the  past. 

Gold  and  silver  have  been  mined  in  more  than  400  localities  in  the 
State.  In  1799  a  17-pound  nugget  of  gold  was  found  on  the  Reed  planta- 
tion in  Cabarrus  County  and  North  Carolina  was  one  of  the  chief  gold- 
producing  States  until  1849.  After  the  War  between  the  States,  mining 
practically  ceased,  but  the  establishment  by  the  Federal  authorities  of  a 
price  of  $35  an  ounce  for  gold  in  1934  brought  renewed  production. 

There  is  little  production  of  manganese,  used  as  a  hardening  alloy  in 
steel  making,  but  deposits  of  manganese  ore  are  found  in  Alleghany, 
Ashe,  Cherokee,  Transylvania,  Madison,  Surry,  and  Cleveland  Coun- 
ties. 

Increased  demand  in  the  United  States  for  chromium  has  brought 
renewed  interest  in  chromite  ore,  which  is  found  in  varying  amounts  in 
the  rocks  of  the  western  part  of  the  State.  Lead  and  zinc  have  been 
mined  at  Silver  Hill  in  Davidson  County,  and  promising  deposits  have 
been  found  in  Haywood,  McDowell,  and  Montgomery  Counties. 

Such  nonmetallic  minerals  as  feldspar,  mica,  clays,  and  building  stones 
are  economically  the  most  important  minerals  in  the  State.  North  Caro- 


22  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

lina  is  the  leading  producer  of  feldspar,  mining  about  half  the  national 
supply.  It  is  used  extensively  in  the  manufacture  of  porcelain.  The 
largest  producing  area  is  the  Spruce  Pine  district  of  about  200  square 
miles  in  Mitchell,  Yancey,  and  Avery  Counties. 

Mica  from  North  Carolina  was  found  in  use  among  the  American 
Indians  at  widely  scattered  points  of  the  United  States.  Deposits  occur 
in  more  than  20  western  counties,  lying  in  a  100-mile- wide  belt  parallel 
to  the  Blue  Ridge.  In  1935,  North  Carolina  produced  55  percent  of  the 
mica  used  in  the  United  States.  Vermiculite,  a  hydrated  form  of  mica, 
used  for  insulation,  is  found  in  large  quantities  in  the  extreme  western 
counties,  the  only  deposits  known  to  be  profitable. 

Kaolin  is  produced  in  Yancey,  Mitchell,  and  Macon  Counties,  chiefly 
in  the  Spruce  Pine  area.  It  is  used  in  making  porcelain,  glass-melting 
pots,  and  tile.  Clays  suitable  for  pottery  are  found  in  Wayne  and  Wilson 
Counties  in  the  east  and  in  Burke,  Catawba,  Lincoln,  Wilkes,  Surry, 
Randolph,  Henderson,  and  Buncombe  Counties  in  the  west.  The  mak- 
ing of  pottery  products  is  a  constantly  growing  industry  in  the  State. 
Clays  for  brick  are  found  scattered  over  the  State,  and  North  Carolina 
ranks  high  in  brick  production. 

The  most  important  talc  deposits  are  in  Swain  County.  Pyrophyllite, 
a  rare  talc  substitute,  is  found  in  great  quantities,  chiefly  at  Hemp  and 
Glendon,  in  Moore  County.  A  number  of  building  and  ornamental 
stones  are  native  to  the  State.  The  pink  granite  of  Rowan  County,  the 
Regal  Blue  marble  of  Cherokee  County,  and  the  Mount  Airy  granite  of 
Surry  County  have  found  national  markets. 

The  extraction  of  bromine  from  sea  water  is  a  recent  development  in 
the  State.  A  plant  near  Wilmington  is  now  producing  15,000  pounds  a 
day  for  use  in  the  gasoline  industry. 

Gem  minerals  of  numerous  varieties  have  been  found  scattered  through 
the  Piedmont  and  Mountain  Region.  However,  most  of  the  discoveries 
of  precious  or  semiprecious  stones  have  been  accidental.  A  corundum 
mine,  opened  in  1871  on  Corundum  Hill,  near  Franklin,  in  Macon 
County,  produced  the  largest  crystal  of  corundum  ever  found.  This 
gray-blue  stone,  weighing  312  pounds,  is  now  in  the  Amherst  College 
collection.  The  same  locality  produced  what  is  perhaps  the  finest 
emerald-green  sapphire  in  the  world,  now  in  the  American  Museum  of 
Natural  History  in  New  York.  Sapphires  have  also  been  found  in 
Transylvania  and  Jackson  Counties,  and  rubies  in  Macon  and  Transyl- 
vania. 

Of  particular  interest  because  it  is  native  only  to  North  Carolina  is 
hiddenite,  sometimes  called  lithia  emerald,  which  was  discovered  near 
Stony  Point,  in  Alexander  County,  in  1879.  It  is  more  brilliant  than  the 
true  emerald,  its  color  ranging  from  a  pale  yellow  to  a  deep  yellow 


NATURALSETTING  23 

green.  The  finest  stone  of  this  kind  is  in  the  American  Museum 
of  Natural  History.  A  few  small  diamonds  have  been  found  in 
McDowell,  Burke,  Rutherford,  Lincoln,  Mecklenburg,  and  Franklin 
Counties. 

Water  Power.  Among  the  most  valuable  natural  resources  of  North 
Carolina  is  water  power.  Favorable  topography  and  the  volume  and  dis- 
tribution of  rainfall  have  given  the  State  a  plentiful  water  supply  and 
potential  water  power  second  only  to  that  of  New  York  among  States 
east  of  the  Mississippi.  In  1939  about  one  million  horsepower  had  been 
developed. 

Of  the  power  developments,  one  at  Waterville  in  Haywood  County 
is  notable  because  of  the  method  employed.  The  waters  of  the  small 
Pigeon  River  have  been  diverted  into  an  8-mile  tunnel  through  the  moun- 
tains and  made  to  fall  861  feet  through  steel  pipes  to  the  turbines.  Most 
of  the  developed  power  is  in  the  Piedmont  section,  where  the  volume  of 
flow  is  large,  and  here  most  of  the  industries  are  situated. 

It  is  estimated  that  only  about  half  of  the  State's  potential  water  power 
has  been  developed.  More  than  half  of  the  power  developed  is  now  con- 
trolled by  the  public  utility  companies. 

Fisheries.  Inside  the  barrier  reef  that  extends  the  length  of  the  North 
Carolina  coast  are  3,000  square  miles  of  fishing  waters,  both  salt  and 
fresh,  and  outside  the  reef  is  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Besides  some  25  species 
of  finfish  that  are  commercially  valuable,  shrimps,  oysters,  clams, 
escallops  and  crabs  are  taken  from  these  waters. 

Parts  of  Pamlico  Sound  and  the  shallow  waters  from  Bogue  Sound 
to  the  South  Carolina  Line  are  capable  of  producing  excellent  oysters. 
Only  about  12,000  of  a  possible  million  acres  of  oyster  grounds  in  the 
State  furnish  the  entire  output,  however.  In  an  effort  to  stimulate  oyster 
culture,  the  Works  Progress  Administration  has  planted  several  mil- 
lion bushels  of  oysters  and  shells  under  the  sponsorship  of  the  State 
Department  of  Conservation  and  Development,  while  the  predecessors 
of  the  WPA  also  planted  considerable  quantities. 

The  soft-shelled  crab  industry  centers  in  the  coastal  waters  of  Curri- 
tuck and  Carteret  Counties,  the  greater  catch  coming  from  Bogue  and 
Core  Sounds.  The  shrimp  industry  is  confined  to  Carteret  and  Bruns- 
wick Counties.  The  hard-shelled  clam  is  taken  in  commercial  quantities 
along  the  borders  of  Onslow,  Carteret,  Pender,  and  Brunswick  Coun- 
ties. 

Besides  food  fish,  there  is  a  large  catch  of  menhaden,  which  is  con- 
verted into  fertilizer  and  oil.  Although  the  menhaden  catch  reached  a 
peak  of  180  million  pounds  in  1918,  it  has  since  declined.  The  menhaden 
industry  is  centered  around  Beaufort  and  Southport. 

Some  15,000  persons  in  North  Carolina  are  directly  dependent  on  the 


24  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

fisheries  for  a  livelihood.  In  1934  the  total  catch  amounted  to  163,462,000 
pounds,  with  a  total  value  to  the  fisherman  of  $1,672,200. 

The  chief  problems  of  the  industry  are  concerned  with  marketing  and 
maintaining  the  source  of  supply.  The  State  provided  in  1923  a  half -mil- 
lion-dollar fund  for  fish  and  oyster  conservation,  and  from  the  hatcheries 
thus  established  and  newer  stations  millions  of  fish  are  distributed  an- 
nually. The  Department  of  Conservation  and  Development,  which 
superseded  the  geologic  and  economic  survey  in  1925,  has  as  one  of  its 
functions  the  development  of  fish  and  oyster  resources.  Through  Fed- 
eral aid  a  cooperative  was  formed  in  1935,  and  money  was  advanced  for 
the  establishment  and  initial  running  expenses  of  a  main  plant  at  More- 
head  City,  and  three  branches. 

Six  hatcheries  for  the  propagation  of  fresh-water  game  fish  have  been 
established  by  the  State  Department  of  Conservation  and  Development. 
These  have  been  supplemented  by  Federal  hatcheries  in  the  Great 
Smoky  Mountains  National  Park  and  the  Sandhills.  Game  fish  are  pro- 
tected by  closed  seasons  and  setting  aside  special  spawning  grounds  for 
certain  periods. 


THE       INDIANS 


OF  THE  SCORE  or  more  Indian  tribes  in  North  Carolina  when 
the  white  man  came,  the  most  important  numerically  were  the 
Cherokee,  a  powerful  detached  tribe  of  the  Iroquoian  family, 
and  the  Tuscarora,  also  of  Iroquoian  stock,  known  as  Skaruren  or  "hemp 
gatherers."  The  Neusick,  perhaps  of  Iroquoian  stock,  later  merged  with 
the  Tuscarora.  The  Catawba  were  the  most  important  of  the  eastern 
Siouan  family,  to  which  also  belonged  the  Keyauwee,  Tutelo,  Saponi, 
Waccamaw,  and  possibly  the  Cape  Fear  tribes. 

Among  the  Algonquian  tribes  were  the  Machapunga  and  Coree,  who 
settled  together  at  Lake  Mattamuskeet;  the  Pamlico  and  the  Hatteras, 
and  the  Weapemeoc  on  Roanoke  Island.  During  the  17th  century  four 
related  tribes  lived  north  of  Albemarle  Sound :  the  Yeopim,  Pasquotank, 
Perquimans,  and  Poteskeet.  The  Bear  River  tribe  lived  in  Craven 
County,  the  Moratoc  on  Roanoke  River,  and  the  Chowanoc  on  Chowan 
River. 

Eno-Will,  John  Lawson's  guide,  believed  to  have  been  a  Shakori  by 
birth,  became  chief  of  the  combined  tribes  of  the  Eno,  Shakori,  and 
Adshusheer,  who  lived  not  far  from  present  Durham.  The  Occoneechee 
had  a  village  near  where  Hillsboro  now  stands.  The  Saponi  were  taken 
into  the  Virginia  Colony  by  Governor  Spotswood,  and  the  Tutelo,  who 
resembled  them,  lived  in  central  North  Carolina.  The  Cheraw  Indians, 
called  Sara  and  Saraw  in  early  records,  were  a  Siouan  tribe  next  in  num- 
bers to  the  Tuscarora,  but  less  prominent  in  history  because  they  had 
been  destroyed  before  white  settlements  were  made.  Living  east  of  the 
Blue  Ridge  between  Danville,  Virginia,  and  Cheraw,  South  Carolina, 
they  were  first  mentioned  in  the  De  Soto  narrative  of  1540,  under  the 
name  Xuala.  Before  1700  they  had  settled  on  the  Dan  River  near  the 
southern  Virginia  Line  where  they  had  two  villages  30  miles  apart, 
Upper  Saura  Town  and  Lower  Saura  Town.  They  gave  their  name  to 
the  Sauratown  Mountains  in  Wilkes  and  Surry  Counties.  The  Cheraw 
were  eventually  absorbed  into  the  Catawba,  once  their  sworn  enemies. 
Today  the  Cherokee  alone  of  North  Carolina  Indians  maintain  their 
tribal  entity. 

The  first  settlers  found  the  Carolina  coastal  aborigines  living  mostly 

25 


26  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

in  conical  tents  or  wigwams  made  of  skins  tied  together  and  stretched 
upon  poles.  Houses  and  huts  of  cypress  or  pine  bark  and  moss  were  not 
uncommon.  Cooking  was  primitive.  Water  poured  into  skins  was  made 
to  boil  by  dropping  in  heated  stones.  Flesh  was  placed  upon  sticks  and 
broiled  over  the  fire,  though  roasting  in  hot  embers  was  a  common 
practice. 

Women  of  the  tribe  did  nearly  all  of  the  work  except  hunting.  They 
cooked,  made  mats  and  baskets  from  reeds  and  rushes,  cared  for  the 
children,  and  cultivated  the  fields.  Agricultural  implements  for  the 
most  part  were  wooden  sticks.  Food  included  deer,  bear,  hares,  fish, 
melons,  nuts,  cucumbers,  "pease,  and  divers  rootes  .  .  .  and  .  .  .  their 
Countrey  corne,  which  is  very  white,  faire  and  well  tasted,  and  groweth 
three  times  in  five  months  . . ."  Besides  maize,  the  Indians  acquainted 
Sir  Walter  Raleigh's  settlers  with  tobacco  and  white  potatoes. 

The  braves  fought  and  hunted  with  bows  and  arrows,  tomahawks, 
spears,  clubs,  and  knives  made  of  stone,  shell,  or  bone.  Boats  were  made 
of  trees,  hollowed  out  by  burning.  The  "medicine  men"  were  skilled  in 
the  treatment  of  some  types  of  illness  and  of  wounds  through  herbal 
remedies,  but  their  primitive  methods,  particularly  conjuring,  often  were 
disastrous  for  their  patients.  When  smallpox  epidemics  raged,  hundreds 
died  after  being  sweated  and  then  plunged  into  cold  streams.  The  crude 
surgery  practiced  often  proved  successful. 

The  Tuscarora,  who  lived  on  the  Roanoke  and  Tar-Pamlico  Rivers 
until  their  migration  northward,  were  an  important  people,  though 
comparatively  little  is  known  about  them.  John  Lawson,  the  surveyor 
general  of  North  Carolina,  who  knew  the  Tuscarora  well  from  close 
contact,  said  (1709)  they  were  "really  better  to  us  than  we  to  them."  He 
relates  details  of  assistance  and  kindly  acts  on  the  part  of  the  Indians. 

The  seizure  of  more  and  more  lands  by  the  settlers  led  to  resentment, 
and  when  the  whites  began  to  kidnap  and  enslave  the  Indians  open 
warfare  developed.  In  1710  the  Tuscarora  sent  a  petition  to  the  provi- 
sional government  of  Pennsylvania  embodying  their  grievances.  Eight 
proposals,  each  attested  by  a  wampum  belt,  were  framed  to  cover  the 
relations  between  Indians  and  whites.  These  belts  with  their  pitiful 
messages  were  finally  sent  to  the  Five  Nations  of  the  North. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  first  war  between  the  Tuscarora  and  the  whites 
the  Indians  had  15  towns  and  a  fighting  strength  of  2,000.  The  war 
opened  with  the  capture  (September  171 1)  of  Lawson  and  Baron  de 
Graffenried.  Lawson  was  put  to  death  but  de  Graffenried  was  liberated. 
Five  tribes  then  formed  a  compact  to  annihilate  the  whites,  each  operat- 
ing in  its  own  district. 

The  massacre,  in  which  130  colonists  on  the  Trent  and  Pamlico  Rivers 
were  slain,  began  on  September  22.  Col.  John  Barnwell,  sent  from  South 


THE    INDIANS  X] 

Carolina  to  aid  the  settlers,  succeeded  in  driving  the  Tuscarora  into  one 
of  their  palisaded  towns  near  New  Bern,  later  violating  the  treaty  that 
he  induced  them  to  sign  by  seizing  some  of  the  Indians  and  selling  them 
into  slavery.  This  started  the  second  war  and  again  South  Carolina  sent 
aid.  Meanwhile  other  tribes  of  the  Tuscarora  had  taken  vengeance  on 
the  Swiss  and  Palatine  settlers  on  the  Trent  River,  killing  about  70,  and 
destroying  much  property.  This  onslaught  almost  effaced  the  New 
Bern  settlement.  To  obtain  aid  from  the  Catawba  against  the  Tusca- 
rora, their  common  enemy,  the  Carolina  authorities  promised  the 
former  a  lower  price  for  commodities.  By  1714  the  remnants  of  the  Tus- 
carora migrated  northward  to  take  shelter  with  the  Five  Nations. 

The  Catawba  Indians  lived  on  both  banks  of  the  lower  Catawba 
River.  Having  been  friendly  to  the  English  during  the  wars  with  the 
French  and  with  other  tribes,  they  participated  in  the  defense  of  South 
Carolina  during  the  Revolution.  Later  they  took  part  in  an  expedition 
against  the  Cherokee.  The  Catawba  were  agriculturists,  not  unlike  their 
neighbors.  The  men  were  brave  and  skilled  in  hunting,  but  they  lacked 
energy.  The  women  were  noted  makers  of  pottery  and  weavers  of 
baskets.  They  practiced  head-flattening  to  some  extent.  After  the  Ca- 
tawba Reservation  in  South  Carolina  had  dv/indled  to  one  square  mile, 
these  Indians  tried  to  live  among  their  old  enemies,  the  Cherokee,  in 
western  North  Carolina,  but  most  of  them  returned  to  their  former 
home.  The  last  survivor- of  the  emigration  died  in  1889. 

Concerning  the  Croatans  (Indians  now  living  chiefly  in  Robeson 
County)  there  is  so  little  authoritative  information  that  the  group  has 
never  been  placed  genealogically.  The  romantic  tradition  that  they  are 
descendants  of  Governor  White's  Lost  Colony  sent  out  by  Sir  Walter 
Raleigh  in  1587  sheds  a  glamor  dimmed  by  other  views  of  their  possible 
origin:  (1)  that  Portuguese  and  Spanish  traders  from  Florida  mingled 
with  a  small  tribe  in  the  Florida  swamps;  (2)  that  escaped  convicts  from 
the  Georgia  penal  colony  took  refuge  among  a  friendly  tribe;  and  (3) 
that  pirates,  ne'er-do-wells,  and  malcontents  from  the  coast  pushed 
farther  inland  to  the  marshlands.  Some  hold  that  the  Robeson  County 
Indians  are  an  admixture  of  pioneer  Scottish,  Negro,  and  Indian  blood 
(see  tour  31a). 

While  their  dominant  characteristics  indicate  an  Indian  origin,  a  con- 
siderable body  of  evidence  lends  support  to  the  claim  that  some  of  their 
ancestors  were  survivors  of  an  English  colony.  Numerous  Anglo-Saxon 
words  now  obsolete  are  still  used  by  the  Croatans.  They  speak  of  houses 
as  "housen"  and  say  "mension"  for  measurement.  Father  is  "feyther" 
and  loving,  "lovend."  In  many  cases  their  family  names  are  identical 
with  those  of  members  of  the  Lost  Colony. 

Separate  schools  for  the  Croatans  were  provided  in  1885,  the  previous 


28  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

generation  having  grown  up  illiterate  because  parents  refused  to  send 
their  children  to  Negro  schools.  During  the  20th  century  social  and 
economic  conditions  among  these  people  improved  to  such  an  extent 
that  they  are  almost  invariably  landowners,  cultivating  cotton,  tobacco, 
and  corn.  They  have  been  accorded  full  use  of  the  ballot,  and  make 
their  influence  felt  in  local  politics.  By  1935  the  community  had  in- 
creased four-fold  since  1890,  when  it  numbered  only  3,640. 

The  Cherokee  Indians,  mountaineers  of  the  South,  with  an  authentic 
history  from  1540,  called  themselves  Yun'wiya  or  Ani  Yun'wiya,  mean- 
ing "Principal  People."  The  name  appears  in  50  different  spellings,  but 
the  term  "Cherokee"  has  no  meaning  in  their  own  language.  It  ap- 
peared first  as  "Chalaque"  in  the  Portuguese  narrative  of  De  Soto's 
expedition,  and  as  "Cheraqui"  in  a  French  account  of  1699.  The  Eng- 
lish form,  "Cherokee,"  was  used  as  early  as  1708. 

They  held  the  entire  Allegheny  region  from  the  headwaters  of  the 
Kanawha  and  the  Tennessee  southward  to  the  region  of  present  Atlanta, 
and  from  the  Cumberland  Range  on  the  west  to  the  Blue  Ridge  on  the 
east,  a  territory  of  about  40,000  square  miles  lying  within  Virginia, 
Tennessee,  North  Carolina,  South  Carolina,  Georgia,  and  Alabama. 

Hernando  De  Soto,  and  later  (1566-67)  Capt.  Juan  Pardo,  recorded 
their  early  history.  In  1684  the  Cherokee  made  their  first  treaty  with  the 
South  Carolina  colonists.  From  1721,  when  the  French  had  established 
themselves  along  the  Mississippi,  until  their  final  withdrawal  in  1763, 
the  British  and  the  French  struggled  for  territorial  and  commercial 
supremacy,  the  Indians  being  pawns  in  the  hands  of  one  or  the  other. 

In  1735  the  tribe  had  64  towns  containing  about  16,000  people  of 
whom  6,000  were  fighting  men.  They  used  guns,  knives,  and  hatchets, 
and  wore  some  European  clothing.  They  owned  horses,  cattle,  hogs,  and 
poultry.  The  men  were  hunters,  but  they  grew  potatoes,  corn,  and 
beans,  and  the  women  made  pottery  and  baskets.  Smallpox  brought 
by  slave  ships  to  Carolina  in  1738  or  1739  broke  out  with  such  devastat- 
ing effect  that  almost  half  the  tribe  was  exterminated. 

During  the  18th  century  the  Cherokee  helped  drive  the  Tuscarora 
northward,  expelled  the  Shawano  from  the  Cumberland,  made  inroads 
into  the  Catawba,  and  were  finally  defeated  by  their  former  friends, 
the  Chickasaw.  Their  wars,  however,  concerned  the  white  man  but 
little.  From  1754  to  1763  the  French  and  English  were  at  grips  in  a 
decisive  conflict,  which,  though  known  as  the  French  and  Indian  War, 
was  concluded  with  an  Anglo-French  treaty  whereby  the  whole  west- 
ern territory  was  ceded  to  England. 

The  opening  of  the  Revolutionary  War  found  the  tribes  almost  to 
a  man  on  the  side  of  the  British,  who  claimed  to  stand  "as  the  sole 
representative  of  authority  between  them  and  extinction  at  the  hands 


THE    INDIANS  29 

of  the  American  borderers."  After  disastrous  attacks  by  British,  Tories, 
and  Indians  on  the  South  Carolina  frontier,  and  an  advance  by  the 
Cherokee  against  the  Watauga  and  Holston  settlements  as  well  as 
against  those  in  Georgia,  the  border  States  determined  to  strike  a  con- 
certed blow  against  the  Cherokee.  In  August  1776,  Gen.  Griffith  Ruther- 
ford with  2,400  men  crossed  the  Blue  Ridge  at  Swannanoa  Gap  and 
proceeded  on  a  campaign  in  which  36  towns  and  villages  were  burned, 
and  many  Indians,  regardless  of  sex  or  age,  were  slain.  The  Indians 
fled  into  the  Great  Smoky  Mountains,  leaving  ruin  and  desolation  be- 
hind. Expeditions  from  Tennessee  and  South  Carolina  completed  the 
rout. 

In  1777  the  Lower  Cherokee  surrendered  all  their  remaining  terri- 
tory in  South  Carolina,  and  the  Middle  and  Upper  Cherokee  ceded  all 
lands  east  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  together  with  the  disputed  territory  on  the 
Watauga,  Nolichucky,  Upper  Holston,  and  New  Rivers.  By  1781  Col. 
John  Sevier  had  overcome  the  Cherokee  in  Tennessee,  who  sued  for 
peace  in  time  to  permit  the  victors  to  send  a  detachment  against  Corn- 
wallis. 

Benjamin  Hawkins,  North  Carolina's  second  United  States  Senator 
(1789-95)  and  agent  to  the  Creeks  and  all  tribes  south  of  the  Ohio  River 
from  1796  until  the  beginning  of  the  War  of  1812,  was  appointed  by 
President  Washington  in  1785  commissioner  to  treat  with  the  Cherokee 
and  other  southern  tribes.  Hawkins  negotiated  the  Treaty  of  Hopewell 
(South  Carolina),  November  28,  1785,  which  gave  to  the  settlers  the 
whole  country  east  of  the  Blue  Ridge  and  the  Watauga  and  Cumberland 
tracts.  During  the  next  half  century  37  treaties  were  made,  every  one 
of  which  cost  the  Cherokee  more  territory. 

In  1 8 10  the  tribal  council  abolished  the  custom  of  clan  revenge.  Dur- 
ing the  War  of  1812  the  Cherokee  aided  the  Federal  Government,  and 
in  the  following  year  cooperated  in  the  campaign  against  the  Creeks. 
In  1820  they  adopted  a  form  of  government  modeled  after  that  of  the 
United  States. 

Sequoyah,  known  to  his  white  neighbors  as  George  Guess,  invented 
the  syllabary  (1820)  that  raised  his  people  to  the  status  of  a  literate 
race.  Like  several  Cherokee  chiefs  he  had  white  blood,  in  his  case  Ger- 
man. He  made  two  trips  to  the  West  searching  for  a  "lost  tribe"  of 
Cherokee;  on  the  second  trip  he  died  in  Mexico.  The  California  sequoia 
trees  are  named  for  him,  as  is  a  mountain  in  the  Great  Smokies. 

Worn  down  by  ceaseless  pressure  from  encroaching  white  settlers 
supported  by  their  State  governments,  which  pressure  reached  a  climax 
with  the  discovery  of  gold  upon  Indian  lands  in  Georgia,  a  small  group 
of  Cherokee  met  with  Federal  agents  at  New  Echota,  Georgia,  in  1835 
and  negotiated  a  treaty  whereby  the  Cherokee  ceded  their  last  remaining 


30  NORTH    CAROLINA:     GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

lands.  The  Government  agreed  to  pay  the  Indians  $5,600,000  and  to 
give  them  an  interest  in  the  territory  west  of  the  Mississippi.  The  treaty 
was  repudiated  by  the  chiefs  and  by  more  than  90  percent  of  the  Indians 
who  had  not  participated  in  nor  agreed  to  the  terms.  Nevertheless  Presi- 
dent Andrew  Jackson  was  determined  that  the  Cherokee  should  be 
removed  and  their  lands  opened  up  for  settlement.  In  1838  President 
Van  Buren  sent  Gen.  Winfield  Scott  with  regulars,  militia,  and  volun- 
teers to  round  up  and  remove  the  remaining  Indians.  Forts  and  stock- 
ades were  built  throughout  the  Cherokee  country  and  into  these  the 
Indians  were  herded,  then  marched  on  the  long  westward  trek.  Thirteen 
thousand  were  thus  transported. 

The  exiles  died  "by  tens  and  twenties  daily,"  nearly  one-fourth  perish- 
ing on  the  route  known  since  as  the  Trail  of  Tears.  The  once-powerful 
tribe  was  divided  into  four  groups:  the  Arkansas,  the  Texas,  and  the 
Indian  Territory  Bands,  while  those  who  escaped  the  removal  became 
known  as  the  Eastern  Band  of  the  Cherokee  Nation  (see  tour  21E). 

The  last  group  fled  into  the  remote  mountain  sections,  chose  Utsala 
as  their  leader,  and  defied  all  attempts  at  capture.  General  Scott  was 
on  the  verge  of  giving  up  what  seemed  a  fruitless  struggle,  when  the 
dramatic  Tsali  incident  offered  him  a  chance  to  effect  a  compromise. 
After  killing  a  soldier  who  had  maltreated  his  wife,  Tsali  fled  into 
the  mountains  with  his  family.  Col.  William  H.  Thomas  persuaded 
Tsali  to  surrender  on  condition  that  the  rest  of  the  tribe  be  allowed  to 
remain  (see  tour  21b). 

Colonel  Thomas  then  turned  to  the  National  Capital  in  behalf  of 
his  Indian  friends.  By  1842  he  had  been  appointed  agent  and  trustee 
of  the  Eastern  Band  with  authority  to  use  their  share  of  the  treaty  money 
to  purchase  lands  for  permanent  settlement.  Later  additional  funds 
augmented  the  reservation  holdings.  As  agent  and  chief,  Thomas  drew 
up  a  simple  form  of  government  which  he  and  his  foster  father,  Yona- 
guska,  administered.  The  first  constitution  under  Federal  supervision 
was  adopted  in  1870. 

Colonel  Thomas  was  born  in  1805  on  Raccoon  Creek  and  first  worked 
at  an  Indian  trading  post.  As  Indian  agent  he  purchased  and  laid  off 
land  for  five  towns:  Birdtown,  Painttown,  Wolf  town,  Yellow  Hill,  and 
Big  Cove,  the  first  three  being  named  for  original  clans.  Resigning 
from  the  State  senate  at  the  outbreak  of  the  War  between  the  States, 
he  organized  the  Thomas  Legion,  composed  of  Cherokee,  which  served 
as  a  frontier  guard  for  the  Confederacy. 

Although  a  State  act  in  1889  established  the  rights  of  the  Cherokee, 
the  legal  status  of  the  Eastern  Band  is  still  somewhat  involved.  They 
are  at  once  wards  of  the  United  States  Government,  citizens  of  the 
United  States,  and  a  corporate  body  under  State  laws. 


HISTORY 


First  Settlements 


THE  FIRST  European  known  to  have  explored  the  coast  of  what 
is  now  North  Carolina  was  Giovanni  da  Verrazzano,  a  Floren- 
tine navigator  in  the  service  of  the  King  of  France.  In  1524,  he 
explored  the  Cape  Fear  coast,  and  on  July  8  of  that  year  sent  to  the 
King  the  earliest  description  known  to  exist  of  the  Atlantic  coast  line 
north  of  the  Cape  Fear.  This  report  was  published  in  1582  in  Hakluyt's 
Divers  Voyages.  Spaniards,  however,  may  have  been  in  the  region  prior 
to  Verrazzano's  visit.  In  1520,  and  again  in  1526,  when  Lucas  Vasquez  de 
Ayllon  headed  Spanish  expeditions  to  the  Carolinas,  he  entered  what  he 
called  the  "Rio  Jordan,"  which  river  was  either  the  Combahee  or  the  Cape 
Fear.  It  seems  likely  that  Hernando  De  Soto  traversed  a  part  of  the 
Cherokee  country  in  1540,  and  then  turned  through  the  mountains  into 
Georgia. 

Neither  the  French  nor  the  Spanish  planted  a  colony,  and  it  was  left 
for  the  English  to  make  the  first  settlements.  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  has  been 
called  the  "Father  of  English  America"  and  Roanoke  Island  has  been 
frequently  referred  to  as  "the  birthplace  of  English  America."  On  March 
25,  1584,  Raleigh  obtained  from  Queen  Elizabeth  a  patent  granting  to 
him,  his  heirs,  and  assigns,  the  title  to  any  lands  that  he  might  discover 
"not  actually  possessed  of  any  Christian  prince,  nor  inhabited  by  Chris- 
tian people."  He  was  authorized  to  plant  colonies  and  to  establish  a  gov- 
ernment. On  April  27,  1584,  Raleigh  sent  out  an  expedition  under  Philip 
Amadas  and  Arthur  Barlow  to  explore  the  country  and  to  select  a  place 
for  a  colony.  Early  in  July  1584  they  landed  on  Roanoke  Island.  After  two 
months,  spent  in  exploring  and  trading  with  the  Indians,  they  returned 
to  England,  taking  with  them  "two  lustie  men,  the  Indians  Manteo  and 
Wanchese."  Upon  their  arrival  in  England,  Amadas  and  Barlow  gave  a 
glowing  report.  They  said  that  the  soil  of  the  new  land  was  "the  most 
plentiful,  sweete,  fruitfull  and  wholesome  of  all  the  world";  that  it  con- 
tained the  "highest  and  reddest  Cedars  of  the  world,"  and  that  the  natives 


32  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

were  "very  handsome  and  goodly  people."  Delighted  with  this  report, 
Queen  Elizabeth  permitted  the  new  land  to  be  named  Virginia. 

In  1585  Raleigh  sent  out  his  first  colony,  with  Ralph  Lane  as  Governor 
and  Richard  Grenville  in  command  of  the  squadron  that  carried  the 
colonists.  There  were  108  men.  On  August  17,  1585,  they  landed  on 
Roanoke  Island.  From  the  very  first,  things  went  badly,  chiefly  because 
too  much  time  was  spent  in  looking  for  gold  and  too  little  in  building 
houses  and  cultivating  the  soil.  The  Indians  became  unfriendly,  some  of 
the  settlers  died,  and  the  others  became  discouraged.  They  abandoned 
the  settlement  in  1586  and  returned  to  England  with  Sir  Francis  Drake, 
who  had  arrived  and  found  them  destitute.  Thus  ended  the  first  English 
colony  in  America. 

Within  a  few  days  after  the  colony's  departure,  an  English  ship  out- 
fitted by  Raleigh  arrived  with  supplies  and  reinforcements.  It  was  fol- 
lowed by  Grenville  with  more  supplies.  Grenville  searched  in  vain  for 
the  settlers  before  he  returned  to  England,  leaving  behind  15  men  to 
hold  England's  claim  to  the  country.  Though  Lane's  colony  failed  to 
establish  a  permanent  settlement,  it  was  the  first  English  colony  in  the 
New  World;  it  resulted  in  Thomas  Harriot's  informative  Discourse  on 
Virginia  and  the  paintings  by  John  White;  and  it  led  to  the  introduc- 
tion of  tobacco,  the  white  potato,  and  Indian  corn  into  England. 

In  April  1587,  Raleigh,  "intending  to  persevere  in  the  planting  of  his 
Countrey  of  Virginia,"  sent  out  another  colony  headed  by  John  White, 
whom  he  appointed  Governor.  Raleigh  had  ordered  White  to  pick 
up  the  15  men  who  had  been  left  at  Roanoke  Island  and  then  make  a 
settlement  farther  north,  but  Ferdinando,  the  ship's  captain,  refused  to 
take  the  company  farther  than  Roanoke.  Here  they  found  the  ruins 
of  the  Lane  fort,  but  no  sign  of  the  men,  except  one  skeleton.  They 
rebuilt  the  fort  and  a  few  houses  and  named  their  settlement  "the  Citie 
of  Ralegh  in  Virginia." 

By  August  of  that  year  supplies  had  begun  to  run  low,  and  White, 
against  his  wish,  was  finally  "constrayned  to  returne  into  England." 
After  being  detained  in  England  by  the  war  then  raging  with  Spain, 
White  returned  to  Roanoke  Island  in  1591  to  find  his  colony  gone. 
There  was  no  trace  except  a  few  broken  pieces  of  armor,  the  word 
"CROATOAN"  carved  on  a  tree,  and  the  letters  "CRO"  on  another 
tree.  The  two  best-known  incidents  in  the  life  of  the  Lost  Colony  were 
the  baptism  of  Manteo — the  first-known  administration  of  a  baptismal 
sacrament  by  English-speaking  people  in  the  New  World — who  was 
given  the  title  "Lord  of  Roanoke,"  the  only  title  of  nobility  ever  granted 
on  United  States  soil;  and  the  birth  on  August  18,  1587,  of  White's 
granddaughter,  Virginia  Dare,  the  first  child  born  in  America  of 
English  parents. 


HISTORY  33 

What  happened  to  the  Lost  Colony  is  an  intriguing  and  unanswerable 
question.  Some  contend  that  they  were  killed  by  Indians;  others  that 
they  were  destroyed  by  the  Spanish.  Still  others  maintain  that  they 
intermarried  with  the  Indians  and  that  the  Croatan  Indians  of  Robeson 
County  are  their  descendants. 

Raleigh  failed  to  plant  a  colony  in  America,  losing  both  fortune  and 
political  prestige.  He  spent  about  $200,000  in  his  colonization  ventures. 
However,  his  ideas  lived,  and  within  a  few  years  of  his  last  effort  the 
first  permanent  English  colony  was  planted  at  Jamestown,  Virginia,  in 
1607. 

Before  long  the  Jamestown  colony  began  to  expand,  furnishing  the 
first  permanent  settlers  in  North  Carolina.  Migrating  southward  in 
search  of  better  lands,  they  followed  the  streams  in  southeastern  Vir- 
ginia that  flowed  into  Albemarle  Sound.  The  movement  was  a  gradual 
one,  and  the  exact  date  of  its  beginning  is  not  known.  The  first  recorded 
expedition  into  North  Carolina  was  made  by  John  Pory,  the  secretary 
of  the  Virginia  Colony,  who  in  1622  traveled  overland  as  far  south  as 
the  Chowan  River  through  a  country  which  he  described  as  "very 
fruitful  and  pleasant." 

In  1629,  King  Charles  I  granted  the  land  south  of  Virginia  to  Sir  Rob- 
ert Heath,  his  attorney  general,  naming  the  region  "Carolana,"  or 
"Carolina," — the  "Land  of  Charles."  Heath  failed  to  settle  his  grant,  how- 
ever. Meanwhile  traders  continued  to  come  into  Carolina  from  Virginia. 
Expeditions  were  sent  into  the  Albemarle  Sound  region  by  Gov.  William 
Berkeley  of  Virginia,  in  1646;  and  Edward  Bland,  a  Virginia  merchant, 
trading  there  in  1650,  wrote  glowing  descriptions  of  it. 

The  oldest  land  grant  on  record  in  North  Carolina  was  made  to  George 
Durant  on  March  1,  1662,  by  the  chief  of  the  Yeopim  Indians.  This  was 
not  the  earliest  grant,  however,  for  it  refers  to  one  that  had  previously 
been  made  by  the  same  Indian  chief.  Carolina  was  even  attracting  con- 
siderable attention  in  England.  A  London  newspaper  in  1649  revealed 
that  plans  were  under  way  to  send  over  a  "Governour  into  Carolana  in 
America,  and  many  Gentlemen  of  quality  and  their  families  with  him." 


Proprietary  Regime 

In  1660,  Charles  II  was  restored  to  the  English  throne,  largely  through 
the  efforts  of  a  few  loyal  friends,  who  held  high  positions  in  the  Govern- 
ment and  the  Army.  In  1663  this  group  applied  to  the  King  for  a  grant 
of  all  the  land  claimed  by  England  south  of  Virginia.  On  April  3,  1663, 
Charles  II  granted  them  the  territory  of  Carolina,  extending  from  lat. 
31  °  N.  to  lat.  360  N.  and  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean  to  the  "South  Seas" 


34  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

(Pacific  Ocean).  The  Lords  Proprietors  were  Edward,  Earl  of  Claren- 
don; George,  Duke  of  Albemarle;  William,  Lord  Craven;  John,  Lord 
Berkeley;  Sir  William  Berkeley,  then  Governor  of  Virginia;  Anthony 
Ashley  Cooper;  Sir  George  Carteret,  and  Sir  John  Colleton.  The  pro- 
prietors were  given  control  of  the  land,  paying  only  a  nominal  rent 
to  the  King,  and  granted  authority  to  establish  a  government.  When 
they  learned  that  their  charter  did  not  include  the  Albemarle  settle- 
ments, they  asked  for  a  new  charter,  granted  in  1665.  This  extended 
the  boundaries  two  degrees  southward,  far  into  Spanish  Florida,  and 
30  minutes  northward,  to  the  present  Virginia-North  Carolina  Line. 

Unfortunately,  the  northern  and  southern  boundaries  were  arbitrarily 
drawn,  unrelated  to  any  features  of  the  land,  and  on  this  account  they 
remained  for  decades  a  source  of  controversy.  The  dispute  between 
Virginia  and  North  Carolina  was  particularly  acrimonious.  The  first 
serious  effort  to  settle  the  dispute  through  a  survey  by  a  joint  commis- 
sion was  in  1728,  when  the  line  was  run  from  the  coast  240  miles  inland. 
An  incidental  result  of  the  survey  was  an  unusually  racy  specimen  of 
early  American  literature,  William  Byrd's  History  of  the  Dividing  Line. 
The  final  completion  of  the  line  to  a  point  near  Bristol,  Virginia,  was 
not  achieved  until  1779,  and  a  more  definite  relocation  was  not  finished 
until  1896. 

Along  the  southern  boundary  the  dispute  concerned  particularly  a 
section  west  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  variously  claimed  by  South  Carolina,  the 
United  States,  Georgia,  and  North  Carolina,  and  over  which  the  so- 
called  Walton  War  was  fought  between  North  Carolina  and  Georgia, 
with  North  Carolina  victorious.  The  trouble  arose  over  an  early  errone- 
ous location  of  the  35th  degree  of  latitude,  but  was  effectively  settled 
in  1 810  after  two  skirmishes  in  what  is  now  Transylvania  County  be- 
tween North  Carolina  militia  and  Georgians  in  the  region.  In  1819  the 
Georgia  Legislature  officially  confirmed  an  accurate  survey  of  the  35th 
parallel,  admittedly  North  Carolina's  southern  boundary. 

The  proprietors  planned  to  develop  three  counties :  Albemarle,  Claren- 
don (in  the  Cape  Fear  section),  and  Craven  (in  the  South  Carolina 
region).  Albemarle  was  the  first  settled  and  is  justly  called  "the  cradle 
of  North  Carolina."  For  many  years  Carolina  was  a  single  province 
and  the  term  North  Carolina  was  not  used.  The  early  Governors  were 
Governors  of  Albemarle,  the  first  one  being  William  Drummond,  ap- 
pointed in  1664.  About  1665  the  first  legislative  assembly  was  held  in 
Albemarle,  and  within  a  few  years  laws  were  passed  to  attract  settlers. 
One  of  these  gave  all  new  settlers  tax  exemption  for  a  year;  another 
prohibited  suing  any  person  within  five  years  after  his  arrival  "for  any 
debt  contracted  or  cause  of  action  given  without  the  County."  These 
laws,  although  exact  copies  of  Virginia  statutes,  antagonized  the  Virgin- 


HISTORY  35 

ians,  who  spread  evil  reports  about  North  Carolina,  calling  it  "Rogue's 
Harbor." 

From  1691  to  1712  the  government  of  North  Carolina  was  admin- 
istered by  a  deputy  appointed  by  the  Governor  of  the  entire  Province  of 
Carolina,  who  resided  in  Charleston  and  administered  the  government 
of  South  Carolina.  After  1712,  North  Carolina  had  a  separate  Governor. 

North  Carolina  faced  difficulties  equal  to  if  not  surpassing  those  of 
any  other  English  colony.  There  were  neither  good  roads  nor  good 
ports.  Virginia  harassed  the  Colony  with  laws  restricting  the  sale  and 
shipment  of  North  Carolina  tobacco  through  her  ports,  and  by  dis- 
puting the  jurisdiction  of  North  Carolina  over  the  territory  along  the 
northern  boundary.  Pirates,  the  most  noted  of  whom  were  "Black- 
beard"  (Edward  Teach,  or  Thatch),  and  Stede  Bonnett,  raided  the  coast 
for  50  years. 

Moreover,  the  government  of  the  Lords  Proprietors  was  never  satis- 
factory. The  proprietors  were  dissatisfied  because  the  Colony  grew 
slowly  and  was  unprofitable,  while  the  settlers  felt  that  the  proprietors 
neglected  the  Colony.  Most  of  the  Governors  were  inefficient  or  dis- 
honest. Land  titles  were  not  clear.  There  were  few  schools,  churches, 
or  internal  improvements.  The  British  navigation  acts  interfered  with 
trade  and  provoked  the  Culpepper  Rebellion,  in  which  the  people  de- 
posed the  Governor  and  put  in  office  men  of  their  own  choosing.  In 
fact,  no  less  than  six  Governors  were  deposed  during  proprietary  rule 
(1663-1729).  There  were  serious  disputes  over  representation  in  the  leg- 
islature, quitrents,  taxation,  and  courts. 

North  Carolina  grew  slowly  in  population  and  wealth.  By  1715  there 
were  three  towns,  Bath,  Edenton,  and  New  Bern,  with  enough  people 
to  entitle  them  to  representation  in  the  assembly.  Bath,  the  oldest  town 
in  the  Colony,  was  incorporated  in  1705  but  never  became  large.  Eden- 
ton, founded  before  1710,  was  the  seat  of  government  for  a  number  of 
years.  New  Bern  was  founded  by  German  and  Swiss  Palatines  in  1710. 
The  Tuscarora  War,  which  broke  out  in  171 1,  was  the  most  serious  upris- 
ing in  the  history  of  the  Colony;  hundreds  of  white  settlers  were  killed 
before  the  Indians  were  subdued  with  the  aid  of  South  Carolina  troops. 
Beaufort  was  established  in  1722.  Brunswick,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Cape  Fear,  was  founded  about  1725  by  settlers  from  South  Carolina. 
Until  the  outbreak  of  the  American  Revolution,  it  was  an  important 
port  as  well  as  a  political  center.  Wilmington,  founded  in  1730  as  New 
Liverpool,  soon  became  the  Colony's  chief  port. 


36  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

The  Royal  Period 

In  1729  the  King  bought  out  the  proprietors  and  North  Carolina  be- 
came a  royal  colony,  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  concerned.  One  proprietor 
retained  his  share,  known  as  the  Granville  District,  which  embraced 
the  upper  half  of  present  North  Carolina  and  included  two-thirds  of 
the  people  in  the  Colony  at  the  time.  The  existence  of  this  district  caused 
much  confusion  until  the  Revolution,  at  which  time  the  land  was  con- 
fiscated by  the  people  living  in  the  district. 

From  1729  to  1775,  North  Carolina  made  considerable  progress.  There 
were  only  five  Governors  during  the  period  of  royal  rule,  and  the  gov- 
ernment was  much  more  stable.  Between  1730  and  1775  the  population 
increased  from  30,000  to  265,000,  and  the  frontier  was  pushed  westward 
to  the  foot  of  the  Blue  Ridge  Mountains.  The  Indians  were  driven 
over  the  Appalachians;  agricultural  methods,  transportation,  and  trade 
improved;  schools  and  churches  were  built,  and  newspapers  were  estab- 
lished. 

Before  1739  the  white  population  was  largely  of  English  stock,  but 
between  that  date  and  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution  a  steady  stream 
of  Scotch  Highlanders,  Scotch-Irish,  and  Germans  poured  into  North 
Carolina.  The  Highlanders  came  into  the  Cape  Fear  Valley  in  large 
numbers,  particularly  after  their  defeat  at  the  Battle  of  Culloden  in 
1745.  The  Scotch  Highlanders  were  the  only  large  group  to  come 
directly  from  their  native  land.  Most  of  the  English  settlers  came  in 
from  Virginia  and  South  Carolina,  while  most  of  the  Scotch-Irish  and 
Germans  came  down  from  Pennsylvania.  A  few  Swiss  and  French  set- 
tled in  North  Carolina  in  the  early  18th  century,  but  the  majority  of 
the  white  population  was  English,  Scotch,  and  German.  The  so-called 
Scotch-Irish  were  "racially  Scotch  and  geographically  Irish." 

In  1760  the  racial  elements  in  the  population  were:  English,  45,000; 
Scotch,  40,000;  German,  15,000;  Negro,  31,000.  Since  the  Colonial  period 
there  has  been  little  foreign  immigration  to  North  Carolina,  and  in 
1930  only  three-tenths  of  one  percent  of  the  State's  total  population 
was  foreign-born,  with  one  exception  the  smallest  proportion  of  any 
State  in  the  Union. 

North  Carolina  was  never  a  unit  geographically,  economically,  or 
socially.  Society  was  rather  distinctly  stratified  into  four  classes.  At  the 
top  was  the  planter  aristocracy,  living  chiefly  in  the  Cape  Fear,  Neuse, 
and  Albemarle  regions,  where  the  plantation  system  took  deepest  root. 
Although  very  much  in  the  minority  as  to  numbers,  this  class  never- 
theless controlled  local  government  and  exerted  a  great  influence  in 
social,  economic,  and  religious  affairs. 


HISTORY  37 

Just  below  the  planters  in  the  social  scale  were  the  small  farmers,  the 
bulk  of  the  population.  The  Piedmont,  which  has  been  described  as  a 
"prolongation  of  Pennsylvania,"  was  the  mecca  of  the  small  farmers. 
There  the  hardy  German  and  Scotch-Irish  settlers  cultivated  their  lands 
with  their  own  hands.  They  grew  their  foodstuffs,  made  their  own 
clothing,  and  envied  no  man.  They  were  self-reliant,  thrifty,  and  dog- 
matic, and  they  did  much  to  determine  the  character  of  society  in  the 
Colony. 

Below  the  small  farmers  were  the  indentured  servants.  These  were 
of  two  kinds,  voluntary  (redemptioners)  and  involuntary,  representing 
many  classes.  A  few  involuntary  servants  were  convicts,  shipped  to  the 
Colony  as  servants  to  pay  for  their  crimes.  Some,  among  them  women 
and  children,  had  been  kidnaped  in  English  cities,  and  spirited  away 
to  America,  to  be  sold  into  bondage.  But  the  majority  of  the  servants 
were  the  voluntary  ones,  who  agreed  to  sell  their  labor  for  a  fixed  num- 
ber of  years  (usually  five  to  seven)  to  pay  for  their  passage  to  the  New 
World.  After  their  period  of  servitude  was  over,  many  by  hard  work 
became  landholders,  some  rising  to  the  status  of  planters. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  social  scale  were  the  Negro  slaves.  Slavery  ex- 
isted from  early  days,  encouraged  by  the  proprietors,  who  offered  50 
acres  of  land  for  each  slave  above  14  years  of  age  brought  into  the 
Colony.  Because  of  the  preponderance  of  small  farmers  who  furnished 
their  own  labor,  slavery  at  first  grew  slowly.  After  the  middle  of  the 
1 8th  century  the  number  of  slaves  increased  rapidly,  as  the  following 
figures  show:  1712,  800;  1730,  6,000;  1754,  15,000;  1765,  30,000;  1790, 
100,572.  The  increase  was  largely  natural,  for  few  Negroes  were  im- 
ported. By  1767  the  Negroes  outnumbered  the  whites  in  some  of  the 
eastern  counties,  where  the  plantation  system  prevailed. 

Ecclesiastically,  North  Carolina  was  not  very  active.  The  first  church 
in  the  Colony  was  built  in  1701-2  by  the  Vestry  of  Chowan  Parish,  after- 
wards St.  Paul's  (see  edenton).  In  1715,  a  Colonial  law  recognized  the 
Church  of  England  as  the  established  church  in  North  Carolina.  Other 
Protestant  denominations  developed  slowly,  but  by  the  end  of  the  Co- 
lonial period,  most  of  the  Protestant  sects  were  well  represented. 

In  the  1 8th  century  there  were  no  public  schools  in  North  Carolina, 
but  there  were  many  teachers.  Education  was  considered  a  function  of 
the  church,  and  nearly  all  of  the  teachers  were  ministers  or  candidates 
for  the  ministry.  The  first  professional  teacher  of  whom  there  is  record 
was  Charles  Griffin,  a  lay  reader  of  the  Anglican  Church,  who  opened 
a  school  in  Pasquotank  County  in  1705. 

The  lack  of  a  public  school  system  did  not  mean  that  the  people  in 
general  were  illiterate.  Children  were  taught  at  home  by  their  parents 
or  by  a  tutor.  The  sons  of  wealthy  planters  were  sent  to  William  and 


38  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

Mary,  Harvard,  Yale,  or  Princeton,  or  to  Scottish  or  English  universi- 
ties. The  education  of  the  poor  and  of  orphans  was  provided  for  through 
the  apprenticeship  system  and  by  requiring  guardians  to  educate  their 
wards. 

After  the  middle  of  the  18th  century  academies,  or  classical  schools, 
were  established.  The  first  in  North  Carolina  was  Tate's  Academy, 
opened  in  Wilmington  in  1760.  Crowfield  Academy  was  opened  the 
same  year  in  Mecklenburg  County.  Hillsboro,  Warrenton,  New  Bern, 
and  Edenton  also  had  early  academies.  The  most  famous  of  these  schools 
was  the  "log  college"  of  the  Rev.  David  Caldwell  at  Greensboro.  The 
first  college  in  North  Carolina  was  Queen's  College,  established  at 
Charlotte  in  1771. 

The  first  free  public  library  was  operating  in  Bath  in  1705,  but  the 
date  of  its  opening  is  uncertain.  The  first  printing  press  was  set  up  at 
New  Bern  in  1749,  by  James  Davis,  "the  father  of  journalism  in  North 
Carolina."  Davis  published  the  first  newspaper  in  the  Colony,  the  North 
Carolina  Gazette,  a  weekly  paper  launched  in  1751. 

Tobacco  and  corn  were  the  chief  crops.  Cotton  was  unimportant  until 
the  19th  century.  Wheat,  flax,  hemp,  and  indigo  were  raised,  as  well  as 
such  "provisions"  as  beans  and  peas.  The  production  of  naval  stores  (tar, 
pitch,  turpentine,  and  rosin)  was  the  chief  industry. 


Revolution  and  Independence 

North  Carolinians  participated  in  all  the  four  wars  between  England 
and  France  for  dominion  in  North  America,  particularly  in  the  French 
and  Indian  War.  At  the  close  of  this  war  England,  faced  with  a  huge 
debt,  inaugurated  a  "new  Colonial  policy,"  one  phase  of  which  was  a 
plan  to  tax  the  colonists  by  means  of  stamps  on  legal  documents,  news- 
papers, and  many  other  articles.  The  people  resisted  enforcement  of  this 
act;  at  Wilmington  and  Brunswick  there  were  demonstrations  and 
an  armed  uprising,  with  the  result  that  no  stamps  were  sold  in  North 
Carolina.  When  the  British  Parliament  in  1767  passed  an  act  taxing 
glass,  white  lead,  tea,  and  other  articles,  nonimportation  associations 
made  effective  use  of  an  economic  boycott.  Finally  England  removed 
all  the  taxes,  except  that  on  tea. 

Meanwhile,  the  farmers  of  the  back  country  v/ere  struggling  against 
Colonial  and  local  government  that  seemed  to  them  inefficient,  venal, 
and  intolerable.  They  were  burdened  by  dishonest  sheriffs,  extortionate 
fees,  corrupt  lawyers,  and  excessive  taxes.  When  the  legislature,  dom- 
inated by  the  eastern  aristocracy,  failed  to  solve  their  problems,  they 
organized  in  1768  as  the  Regulators,  pledged  "to  regulate"  the  govern- 


HISTORY  39 

merit  and  to  remedy  the  abuses.  Later  they  resorted  to  violence  and 
rioted  in  Hillsboro,  dragging  the  judge  from  the  bench,  breaking  up  the 
court,  and  doing  damage  to  the  property  of  some  of  the  officials.  Finally 
Governor  Tryon  led  the  eastern  militia  to  Hillsboro,  and  at  the  Battle 
of  Alamance  Creek  on  May  16,  1771,  the  Regulators  were  defeated. 
Seven  were  put  to  death;  more  than  6,000  accepted  the  Governor's 
pardon  proclamation.  Many  of  the  Regulators  were  still  disaffected, 
however,  and  hundreds  migrated  beyond  the  mountains. 

As  the  American  Revolution  approached  in  1774,  the  people,  in  open 
defiance  of  the  royal  Governor,  Josiah  Martin,  held  a  convention  at  New 
Bern  to  formulate  plans  of  resistance  and  to  elect  delegates  to  the  Con- 
tinental Congress.  When  the  Revolution  broke  out  in  April  1775,  the 
Governor  fled,  royal  authority  broke  down,  and  a  provisional  govern- 
ment was  set  up.  Meetings  were  held  in  various  counties,  and  commit- 
tees were  appointed  to  take  charge  of  local  government  and  raise 
troops.  According  to  local  history,  a  meeting  was  held  in  Charlotte, 
May  20,  1775,  and  a  declaration  of  independence  was  drawn  up.  Some 
contend  there  is  no  conclusive  proof  of  this  meeting,  although  the  date 
commemorating  the  event  is  on  the  State  seal  and  the  State  flag.  It 
is,  however,  certain  that  a  meeting  in  Charlotte  on  May  31,  1775,  drew 
up  a  set  of  resolutions,  more  moderate  in  tone  than  the  so-called  Meck- 
lenburg Declaration.  Boyd's  Cape  Fear  Mercury  published  the  resolu- 
tions, and  for  this  act  was  arraigned  by  the  Governor  as  "a  most 
infamous  publication." 

Many  North  Carolinians  were  loath  to  go  to  war  with  England.  These 
Tories,  or  loyalists,  included  most  of  the  official  class,  some  large  planters, 
many  of  the  Anglican  clergy,  numbers  of  the  Scotch  Highlanders,  and 
many  of  the  Regulators.  Organizing  into  an  army,  the  Tories  met  the 
North  Carolina  Whigs  at  Moores  Creek  Bridge,  February  27,  1776,  and 
suffered  a  crushing  defeat.  In  1777  the  State  legislature,  controlled  by 
the  Whigs,  began  to  pass  laws  by  means  of  which  they  confiscated 
Tory  property  worth  a  million  dollars  during  the  course  of  the  war. 
As  a  result  many  Tories  left  the  State. 

On  April  12,  1776  the  Fourth  Provincial  Congress  meeting  at  Halifax, 
drew  up  a  resolution  authorizing  the  North  Carolina  delegates  in  the 
Continental  Congress  to  "concur  with  the  delegates  of  the  other  Colonies 
in  declaring  Independency. . . ."  This  was  "the  first  authoritative,  explicit 
declaration,  by  more  than  a  month,  by  any  colony  in  favor  of  full,  final 
separation  from  Britain."  In  the  latter  part  of  that  year  the  Fifth  Pro- 
vincial Congress  framed  the  first  State  constitution,  the  salient  features 
of  which  were  a  bill  of  rights;  provision  for  legislative,  executive,  and 
judicial  branches  of  government,  with  the  legislative  branch  given  vir- 
tual control  over  the  other  two  divisions;  property  and  religious  quali- 


40  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

fixations  for  voting  and  officeholding;  representation  of  six  boroughs 
in  the  legislature,  along  with  county  representation;  suffrage  for  free 
Negroes;  separation  of  church  and  state;  and  a  general  provision  for 
public  education.  The  constitution  went  into  effect  in  1777,  without 
being  submitted  to  popular  vote.  Richard  Caswell  was  the  first  Governor 
of  the  independent  State,  being  chosen  by  the  Provincial  Congress.  The 
capital  was  at  New  Bern. 

After  the  Battle  of  Moores  Creek  Bridge  there  was  little  fighting  in 
the  State  until  the  last  year  of  the  war,  but  North  Carolina  soldiers  were 
active  elsewhere.  State  troops  helped  drive  Lord  Dunmore  from  Vir- 
ginia in  1775-76,  and  assisted  in  the  defense  of  South  Carolina  and 
Georgia.  The  State  militia  under  Rutherford  defeated  the  Cherokee 
and  drove  them  farther  west.  Many  North  Carolinians  fought  under 
Washington  at  Brandywine,  Germantown,  and  Monmouth,  and  suf- 
fered at  Valley  Forge  in  the  severe  winter  of  1777-78.  They  rendered 
valiant  service  against  Ferguson  at  Kings  Mountain  on  October  7, 
1780,  and  against  Cornwallis  at  Guilford  Courthouse,  March  15,  1781. 
Cornwallis'  surrender  at  Yorktown,  in  October  1781,  can  be  traced  in 
part  to  the  disastrous  defeat  at  Kings  Mountain,  to  Cornwallis'  heavy 
losses  at  Guilford  Courthouse,  and  to  his  failure  to  recruit  many  Tories 
in  the  State — reverses  which  caused  his  famous  retreat  through  the 
State  to  Wilmington,  and  then  to  Virginia,  culminating  in  the  York- 
town  surrender. 

The  Revolutionary  War  left  North  Carolina  divided  into  two  main 
groups,  conservatives  and  radicals.  The  constitution  of  1776  was  more 
conservative  than  radical.  The  east-west  sectionalism,  which  had  mani- 
fested itself  so  vigorously  before  the  Revolution,  continued,  and  the 
State  government  was  dominated  by  the  landed  aristocracy  of  the  east 
for  half  a  century. 

The  chief  problems  after  the  Revolution  were  the  disposition  of  the 
State's  western  lands,  the  relation  of  North  Carolina  to  the  Union,  and 
the  function  of  the  State  government  in  education,  building  roads, 
canals,  and  other  internal  improvements. 

Before  and  during  the  Revolution  intrepid  pioneers  like  Daniel 
Boone  and  James  Robertson,  and  land  speculators  like  Richard  Hender- 
son, had  made  their  way  into  the  transmontane  country.  The  coloniza- 
tion of  what  later  became  the  State  of  Tennessee  began  with  the  Watauga 
settlement  just  prior  to  the  Revolution.  By  1783  there  were  about  25,000 
people  beyond  the  mountains,  and  four  counties  had  been  created;  three 
other  counties  were  formed  within  a  few  years. 

The  legislature  first  ceded  North  Carolina's  western  lands  to  the 
United  States  in  1784.  The  settlers  in  the  transmontane  country,  who 
favored  the  cession  act,  were  antagonized  by  its  repeal  later  the  same 


HISTORY  41 

year.  They  broke  away  from  North  Carolina  and  organized  the  State 
of  Franklin,  with  a  constitution,  a  separate  legislature,  and  John  Sevier 
as  Governor.  The  new  State  collapsed  in  September  1787,  after  it  failed 
to  secure  support  from  the  Continental  Congress  or  from  other  States. 
Finally,  in  1789-90,  North  Carolina  ceded  its  western  lands  to  the  Fed- 
eral Government;  in  1796  the  region  was  admitted  to  the  Union  as  the 
State  of  Tennessee. 

As  the  Cherokee  Indians  retreated  westward,  and  as  population  grew 
and  roads  were  built,  white  settlers  began  to  move  into  the  mountain 
region.  Buncombe  County  was  created  in  1792,  and  five  years  later  the 
town  of  Asheville  was  incorporated. 

The  people  of  North  Carolina  were  from  the  beginning  inclined 
toward  individualism  and  democracy,  and  their  fear  of  a  strong  central 
government  led  them  to  reject  the  Federal  Constitution  at  the  Hills- 
boro  convention  in  1788.  Although  adopting  this  course  by  a  vote  of 
185  to  84,  the  convention  suggested  a  number  of  amendments,  some 
of  which  were  later  incorporated  in  the  Constitution  as  the  first  ten 
amendments. 

The  Constitution  was  ratified,  however,  by  all  but  North  Carolina 
and  Rhode  Island,  and  went  into  effect  in  the  spring  of  1789.  As  a 
result,  public  opinion  in  the  State  changed,  and  at  the  Fayetteville 
convention,  on  November  21,  1789,  North  Carolina  ratified  the  Con- 
stitution, and  thus  came  under  the  "Federal  Roof."  North  Carolina 
entered  the  Union  too  late  to  vote  for  Washington  in  1789,  and  it  left 
the  Union  too  late  to  vote  for  Davis  in  1861.  It  was  next  to  the  last 
of  the  Original  States  to  enter  the  Union,  and  in  1861  it  was  next  to 
the  last  State  to  leave  it. 

Predominantly  a  State  of  small  farmers,  North  Carolina  was  for  a 
few  years  Federalist  in  its  politics;  but  it  soon  changed  and  aligned 
itself  with  Thomas  Jefferson  and  the  Republican  Party  of  that  day. 
Under  the  leadership  of  Willie  Jones,  and  later  of  Nathaniel  Macon, 
the  State  was  strongly  Republican  for  many  years.  The  Raleigh  Register, 
founded  in  1799  by  Joseph  Gales  at  the  instigation  of  Macon,  was  a 
Republican  organ;  in  1850-51  it  published  the  State's  first  daily  news- 
paper. Macon,  who  seemed  to  personify  North  Carolina  in  his  day, 
believed  that  government  should  be  cheap,  simple,  and  democratic; 
that  the  people  should  not  be  taxed  for  education  and  internal  improve- 
ments, and  that  "that  government  is  best  which  governs  least."  North 
Carolina  was  the  only  State  in  the  Union  which  consistently  opposed 
all  protective  tariff  legislation. 

There  were  no  public  schools  or  colleges  in  North  Carolina  for  many 
years  after  the  Revolution,  and  a  growing  need  was  felt  for  better  edu- 
cational facilities.  The  constitution  of  1776  had  provided  "That  a  school 


42  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

or  schools  shall  be  established  by  the  Legislature  for  the  convenient 
Instruction  of  Youth,  with  such  salaries  to  the  Masters  paid  by  the 
Public,  as  may  enable  them  to  instruct  at  low  Prices;  and  all  useful 
Learning  shall  be  duly  encouraged  and  promoted  in  one  or  more  uni- 
versities." But  the  political  leaders  of  the  State  did  not  interpret  this  to 
mean  that  the  State  should  establish  schools  and  colleges  supported 
by  public  funds.  They  felt  that  the  academies,  which  were  chartered 
by  the  legislature,  though  not  supported  by  it,  fulfilled  this  constitutional 
provision.  More  than  40  academies  were  established  prior  to  1800  and 
more  than  400  between  the  Revolution  and  the  War  between  the  States. 

The  academies  were  private  schools,  many  of  them  sectarian  in  char- 
acter. They  were  allowed  to  grant  certificates  but  not  diplomas  or  de- 
grees. The  trustees  ordinarily  selected  the  teachers,  fixed  the  curriculum, 
gave  the  examinations,  and  in  some  cases  administered  discipline. 

Thirteen  years  elapsed  before  the  legislature  did  anything  about 
establishing  "one  or  more  universities."  Prominent  Federalists,  led  by 
William  R.  Davie,  often  called  "the  father  of  the  university,"  finally 
succeeded  in  getting  a  bill  passed  in  1789,  chartering  the  University 
of  North  Carolina.  New  Hope  Chapel,  now  Chapel  Hill,  was  the  site 
selected.  In  1795  the  university  opened  its  doors  to  students,  the  first 
State  university  to  do  so.  The  legislature  granted  it  a  loan  of  $10,000, 
which  was  later  converted  into  a  gift,  but  made  no  appropriations  for 
its  support,  and  the  trustees  had  to  depend  chiefly  on  gifts  and  tuition 
fees. 

In  early  days  there  had  been  no  fixed  seat  of  government.  New  Bern 
was  the  capital  when  the  Revolution  began,  but  during  the  war  the 
legislature  met  at  Hillsboro,  Halifax,  Smithfield,  Wake  Court  House, 
New  Bern,  Fayetteville,  and  Tarboro.  Finally,  in  1792,  a  legislative 
committee  bought  1,000  acres  of  land  from  Joel  Lane  near  Wake  Court 
House,  and  laid  out  the  city  of  Raleigh.  The  first  capitol  in  Raleigh, 
a  brick  structure  completed  in  1794,  was  burned  in  1831.  The  present 
capitol  was  begun  in  1833  and  completed  in  1840. 


Ante-Bellum  Days 


From  1 815  to  1835,  North  Carolina  made  so  little  economic  and  social 
progress  that  it  was  called  the  Rip  Van  Winkle  of  the  States  and  the 
Ireland  of  America.  The  chief  cause  of  this  backwardness  was  its  inac- 
cessibility to  markets.  In  1815  there  were  only  twenty-three  small  iron 
works,  three  paper  mills,  and  one  cotton  mill  in  the  State.  Many  small 
gristmills  and  distilleries  were  operated,  but  there  was  little  machinery. 
Manufacturing  was  still  in  the  domestic  or  household  stage.  No  large 


HISTORY  43 

trading  city  existed,  and  only  7  towns  in  the  State  had  more  than  1,000 
people.  From  Wilmington,  the  chief  port,  only  a  million  dollars'  worth 
of  goods  were  shipped  in  1816. 

North  Carolina  dropped  in  population  from  third  place  among  the 
States  in  1790  to  seventh  place  in  1840.  Soil  exhaustion,  the  lure  of  the 
West,  lack  of  internal  improvements  and  educational  facilities,  and  un- 
happy conditions  generally  led  many  people  to  forsake  the  State.  Thou- 
sands moved  to  other  States,  among  them  young  Andrew  Johnson  and 
the  families  of  two  other  Carolina-born  Presidents,  Jackson  and  Polk. 

Archibald  De  Bow  Murphey  and  a  few  other  leaders  in  the  State 
urged  as  a  remedy  the  building  of  transportation  facilities,  the  stimula- 
tion of  manufacturing,  the  promotion  of  education,  and  the  develop- 
ment of  the  State's  vast  resources.  But  the  government,  dominated  by 
the  landed  aristocracy  of  the  east,  was  unwilling  to  launch  such  a  pro- 
gram of  internal  improvements. 

By  1830  more  than  half  the  State's  population  lived  west  of  Raleigh. 
Yet  most  of  the  Governors  and  the  majority  of  the  legislature  came  from 
the  east.  Whenever-  a  new  county  was  created  in  the  west,  one  would 
also  be  formed  in  the  east,  so  that  the  east  continued  to  control  the 
government.  The  west  demanded  revision  of  the  constitution  of  1776 
and  a  program  of  internal  improvements.  The  east  opposed  both.  From 
1831  to  1835,  North  Carolina  appeared  to  be  on  the  verge  of  a  revolution. 
Finally,  at  a  convention  held  at  Raleigh  in  1835,  significant  changes 
were  made  in  the  constitution.  Provisions  were  adopted  for  the  reap- 
portionment of  representation  in  the  legislature,  popular  election  of  the 
Governor,  abolition  of  borough  representation,  disfranchisement  of  the 
free  Negro,  and  the  partial  removal  of  religious  qualifications  for  voting 
and  officeholding. 

A  genuine  educational  revival  began  about  1836.  The  first  public 
school  law  was  passed  in  1839,  and  the  first  public  schools  were  opened 
in  1840.  By  1850  more  than  100,000  children  were  attending  approxi- 
mately 2,600  schools.  Under  Calvin  H.  Wiley,  who  in  1853  became  the 
first  State  superintendent  of  common  schools,  a  unified  school  program 
was  inaugurated.  In  i860,  North  Carolina  had  2,854  schools,  open  nearly 
four  months  in  the  year,  with  116,567  children  in  attendance. 

At  the  same  time  many  denominational  colleges  were  being  estab- 
lished. Wake  Forest  College  (Baptist)  had  its  beginning  as  the  Wake 
Forest  Institute,  opened  in  1834.  Davidson  College  (Presbyterian)  near 
Charlotte,  opened  for  students  in  1837.  Trinity  College  (Methodist), 
now  Duke  University,  had  its  beginning  about  1838  at  Trinity  in 
Randolph  County.  Salem  Female  Academy  had  been  started  by  the 
Moravians  in  1802.  Between  1842  and  1858  other  colleges  for  girls  were 
established  by  various  denominations:  Greensboro  Female,  Saint  Mary's, 


44  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

Davenport,  Floral,  Chowan,  Oxford,  and  Statesville.  In  i860  there  were 
6  colleges  for  men  with  900  students,  and  13  colleges  for  girls  with  1,500 
students. 

The  State  also  adopted  a  policy  for  the  care  of  the  blind,  deaf,  speech- 
less, and  insane.  A  school  for  the  blind  and  deaf  was  established  in 
Raleigh  in  1845.  A  State  hospital  for  the  insane  was  opened  in  Raleigh 
in  1856. 

During  this  period  canals  and  roads  were  built,  rivers  and  harbors 
improved,  and  railroads  constructed.  Two  railroad  lines  were  completed 
in  1840,  the  Wilmington  and  Raleigh  (i6i1/4  miles),  which  did  not 
touch  Raleigh,  but  ran  from  Wilmington  to  Weldon  on  the  Roanoke 
River;  and  the  Raleigh  and  Gaston,  to  Weldon.  In  1856  the  North 
Carolina  Railroad  was  completed  from  Charlotte  to  Goldsboro,  and  by 
i860  the  line  had  been  extended  from  Goldsboro  to  the  coast.  The 
Western  North  Carolina  Railroad  was  opened  from  Salisbury  to  Mor- 
ganton  in  1861,  and  by  1880  had  reached  Asheville.  In  i860  the  total 
railroad  trackage  was  889.42  miles.  Many  plank  roads,  or  "farmers'  rail- 
roads," were  built  between  1849  and  i860,  no  fewer  than  81  companies 
being  incorporated  for  their  construction.  Many  of  the  roads  radiated 
from  Fayetteville;  one  of  these,  running  to  Bethania  by  way  of  Salem, 
is  said  to  be  the  longest  plank  road  ever  built.  By  the  time  of  the  War 
between  the  States,  plank  roads  had  about  disappeared. 

Of  25  towns  listed  in  the  i860  census,  only  2  had  a  population  of  more 
than  5,000,  while  13  had  less  than  1,000  each.  Wilmington,  with  13,446, 
was  the  largest;  and  New  Bern,  Fayetteville,  Raleigh,  Salisbury,  and 
Charlotte  were  next  in  size.  Farming  conditions  had  improved  as  a 
result  of  better  transportation  facilities,  and  there  was  a  notable  increase 
in  manufacturing. 

The  majority  of  North  Carolinians  never  held  slaves  at  any  time. 
Most  of  those  who  held  slaves  owned  fewer  than  ten,  though  there  were 
some  families  that  owned  hundreds.  North  Carolina  had  more  free 
Negroes  than  any  other  Southern  State  except  Virginia  and  Maryland. 
Between  1790  and  i860  they  had  increased  from  4,975  to  30,463.  Some 
had  migrated  from  free  States,  others  had  achieved  their  freedom  by 
meritorious  work  or  military  service. 

From  1 816  to  1830  the  movement  for  emancipation  in  North  Carolina 
was  stronger  than  in  any  other  Southern  State.  At  least  40  abolition 
societies  were  operating  in  1826.  As  early  as  1819  the  Underground 
Railroad  had  become  an  active  force  in  the  State.  Branches  of  the 
American  Colonization  Society  were  formed,  and  some  Negroes  were 
sent  to  Liberia  and  elsewhere. 


TUSCARORA  GRAVES,  LOUISBURG 


CHEROKEE  GORGET, 
B.  S.  COLBURN  COLLECTION 


INDIAN  MOUND,  MT.  GILEAD 


PSS? 


CHEROKEE  BALL  GAME 


CHEROKEE  BEAR  DANCE 


BLOCKHOUSE  AT  FORT  RALEIGH 


CORNWALLIS     HEADQUARTERS,  WILMINGTON 


STATUE  OF  GENERAL   GREENE,   GUILFORD  COURTHOUSE  MILITARY   PARK 


BIRTHPLACE  OF   ANDREW  JOHNSON,  RALEIGH 


BIRTHPLACE  OF   GOV.   ZEBULON   B.   VANCE 


V 


.  . 


R  — 


NANCY   JONES   HOUSE,   CARY 


OLD   STONE  HOUSE  NEAR   SALISBURY 


.&>& 


s.. 


CUPOLA   HOUSE,  EDEXTOX 


OLD  MARKET  HOUSE,  FAYETTEVILLE 


JOHX    WRIGHT    STAXLY    HOUSE,    NEW   BERX 


r 


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^^ 


■■■    ill 

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HISTORY  45 

War  and  Reconstruction 

North  Carolina,  like  other  Southern  States,  believed  in  States'  rights 
and  opposed  efforts  to  restrict  slavery  in  the  Territories.  After  the  na- 
tional abolition  movement  began  about  1830,  North  Carolina  ceased  to 
talk  about  slavery  as  a  necessary  evil  and  began  to  defend  it  from  attack, 
enacting  stronger  laws  for  control  of  the  Negroes.  However,  violent 
attacks  on  slavery  were  made  by  a  few  individuals  in  the  State,  among 
whom  were  Levi  and  Vestal  Coffin,  reputed  founders  of  the  Under- 
ground Railroad,  and  Hinton  Rowan  Helper,  author  of  the  Impending 
Crisis,  published  in  1857. 

Union  sentiment  was  strong  in  the  State  even  among  many  slave- 
holding  planters.  The  State  was  not  a  party  to  the  organization  of  the 
Southern  Confederacy  in  February  1861.  Delegates  were  sent  to  a  peace 
conference  held  at  Washington  in  an  effort  to  avert  hostilities.  But  when 
after  Fort  Sumter  had  been  fired  on,  Lincoln  asked  for  troops  to  fight 
the  Confederacy,  North  Carolina  refused.  The  State  adopted  an  ordi- 
nance of  secession  on  May  20, 1861,  and  cast  its  lot  with  the  South. 

North  Carolina  furnished  about  one-fifth  of  all  the  southern  soldiers, 
although  it  had  only  about  one-ninth  of  the  southern  population.  It 
sent  into  the  war  approximately  125,000  men,  a  number  larger  than  the 
State's  voting  population.  About  one-fourth  of  the  Confederates  killed 
in  action,  or  more  than  40,000  men,  were  North  Carolinians.  The  State's 
boast  that  it  was  "First  at  Bethel,  farthest  at  Gettysburg,  and  last  at 
Appomattox"  has  some  basis.  Eighty-four  engagements,  most  of  them 
small,  were  fought  on  North  Carolina  soil. 

While  contributing  heavily  to  the  Confederate  cause,  no  State  was 
more  jealous  of  its  rights  than  North  Carolina.  Gov.  Zebulon  B.  Vance 
protested  against  many  policies  of  the  Confederate  Government,  par- 
ticularly the  conscription  law,  the  impressment  of  property,  the  suspen- 
sion of  the  writ  of  habeas  corpus,  and  the  use  of  Virginia  officers  in 
North  Carolina. 

Near  the  end  of  the  war,  Lee's  army  was  dependent  on  the  food  and 
supplies  that  were  run  into  Wilmington  through  the  blockade  and  were 
shipped  over  the  Wilmington  and  Weldon  Railroad,  "the  life  line  of 
the  Confederacy."  About  $65,000,000  worth  of  goods,  at  gold  prices, 
were  brought  into  Wilmington  during  the  war.  Fort  Fisher,  the  "Gibral- 
tar of  America,"  was  not  captured  by  the  Federal  forces  until  January 
1865,  and  Wilmington,  the  last  Confederate  port,  fell  into  northern 
hands  soon  after. 

North  Carolina,  like  the  rest  of  the  South,  was  in  a  state  of  collapse 
following  the  downfall  of  the  Confederacy.  Economic  exhaustion  and 


46  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

political  and  social  disorder  were  complete.  One  of  the  greatest  problems 
was  the  freedmen.  About  350,000  slaves,  poor  and  without  experience 
in  taking  care  of  themselves,  were  set  free  in  the  State.  Many  of  these 
expected  that  the  United  States  Government  would  give  them  "forty 
acres  and  a  mule,"  and  provide  for  them  generally.  White  leaders  tried 
to  solve  the  problem,  but  accomplished  little. 

North  Carolina  was  not  fully  readmitted  to  the  Union  until  1868.  In 
May  1865,  Gen.  John  McA.  Schofteld  took  military  command  of  the 
State,  and  issued  a  proclamation  announcing  the  cessation  of  war  and 
the  freedom  of  the  slaves.  On  May  29  of  that  year,  President  Andrew 
Johnson,  in  an  effort  to  carry  out  his  plan  of  reconstruction,  appointed 
W.  W.  Holden  Provisional  Governor.  The  President  also  issued  a 
proclamation  of  pardon  and  amnesty,  but  the  leading  citizens  of  the 
State  were  not  eligible.  The  Southern  States  were  required  to  set  up 
governments  and  accept  the  thirteenth  amendment,  abolishing  slavery, 
before  they  would  be  readmitted  to  the  Union.  Before  the  close  of  1865 
a  regular  government  was  set  up  and  Jonathan  Worth  was  elected 
Governor  over  Holden. 

Early  in  1866  the  North  Carolina  legislature  adopted  special  laws, 
called  the  Black  Code,  defining  the  rights  of  Negroes.  According  to 
R.  D.  W.  Connor,  while  "it  did  not  admit  the  Negro  to  entire  equality 
before  the  law  with  the  whites,  nevertheless  it  validated  the  marriages 
of  former  slaves;  changed  the  law  of  apprenticeship  so  as  to  apply,  with 
one  minor  exception,  to  both  races  alike;  declared  Negroes  entitled  to 
the  same  rights  and  privileges  as  whites  in  suits  at  law  and  equity;  made 
the  criminal  law  applicable  to  the  two  races  alike,  except  in  the  punish- 
ment for  an  assault  with  intent  to  rape;  provided  for  the  admission  of 
the  testimony  of  Negroes  in  the  courts,  and  made  provision  for  the  pro- 
tection of  Negroes  from  fraud  and  ignorance  in  making  contracts  with 
white  persons." 

The  Wilmington  Star,  founded  in  1867,  is  the  State's  oldest  daily 
newspaper. 

In  1867  Congress  nullified  the  Presidential  plan  of  reconstruction.  The 
South  was  divided  into  five  military  districts,  and  North  Carolina  was 
thus  again  under  military  rule.  Congress  also  laid  down  the  conditions 
of  readmission  to  the  Union.  North  Carolina,  like  other  Southern  States, 
was  required  to  form  a  new  constitution,  "framed  by  a  convention  of 
delegates  elected  by  male  citizens  of  the  said  State,  21  years  old  and 
upwards,  of  whatever  race,  color,  or  previous  condition."  The  constitu- 
tion had  to  be  approved  by  voters  of  the  State,  and  the  State  had  to 
ratify  the  fourteenth  amendment,  making  Negroes  citizens  of  the 
United  States. 

A  constitutional  convention  met  in  Raleigh  on  January  14,  1868,  and 


HISTORY  47 

drew  up  a  document  which,  with  the  addition  of  many  amendments,  is 
still  effective.  Present  at  this  convention  were  107  Republicans,  of  whom 
18  were  carpetbaggers  and  15  Negroes.  Only  13  Conservatives  (Demo- 
crats) attended.  Some  of  the  most  significant  provisions  of  the  new  con- 
stitution were  the  abolition  of  slavery;  elimination  of  religious  or  prop- 
erty qualifications  for  voting  or  officeholding;  popular  election  of  all 
State  and  county  officials;  abolition  of  the  county  court  system  and 
adoption  of  the  township-county  commission  form  of  government;  pro- 
vision for  charities  and  public  welfare;  and  a  four-months  public  school 
term. 

For  many  years  North  Carolina  had  bad  government,  though  it  never 
suffered  as  much  from  carpetbaggers  and  Negro  politicians  as  some  of 
the  other  Southern  States.  There  was  a  great  increase  in  crime  and  vio- 
lence. The  Union  League,  a  Republican  organization,  was  active  among 
the  Negroes.  The  whites  began  to  organize  the  Ku  Klux  Klan  and 
other  secret  societies,  stating  as  their  purpose  the  protection  of  woman- 
hood, combating  the  influence  of  the  Union  League,  and  restoring 
"white  supremacy." 

Things  came  to  a  head  in  1870.  Maintaining  that  there  was  disorder 
in  Alamance  and  Caswell  Counties  because  of  the  activities  of  the  Ku 
Klux  Klan,  Governor  Holden  proclaimed  these  counties  in  a  state  of 
insurrection.  Military  arrests  were  made  and  a  number  of  leading  citi- 
zens were  imprisoned  without  jury  trial.  By  this  time  the  Conservatives 
had  gained  control  of  the  legislature,  and  steps  were  taken  to  remove 
Holden.  He  was  "impeached  of  high  crimes  and  misdemeanors,"  and 
after  a  trial  which  lasted  almost  two  months  he  was  found  guilty  and 
removed  from  office  on  March  22,  1871.  Thereafter  the  Conservatives 
gradually  gained  control  of  the  State. 

Thirty  amendments  were  added  to  the  1868  constitution  in  1875,  most 
of  which  were  the  result  of  the  experiences  of  Reconstruction.  Schools 
for  white  and  black  were  to  be  kept  separate;  marriages  between  whites 
and  blacks  were  forbidden;  secret  political  societies  were  not  to  be  tol- 
erated; residence  requirements  for  voting  were  raised;  the  legislature 
was  given  control  over  the  appointment  of  justices  of  the  peace;  and  the 
power  of  the  State  government  over  local  affairs  was  increased. 


Recovery  and  Progress 


North  Carolina  was  still  a  very  poor  State  when  Reconstruction  ended. 
The  great  task  of  rebuilding  agriculture,  industry,  transportation,  and 
commerce  was  yet  to  be  accomplished. 

The  farmers,  in  particular,  suffered  during  the  period  from  the  close 


48  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

of  the  war  to  1900.  One  of  the  most  significant  results  of  the  war  was 
the  break-up  of  plantations  into  smaller  farms  and  the  rapid  rise  of 
farm  tenancy.  The  majority  of  landlords  rented  their  land  "on  shares." 
Although  some  leading  farmers  and  a  few  farm  papers  opposed  this 
system,  circumstances  forced  it  on  North  Carolina  and  it  is  still  the 
prevalent  system  of  land  tenure. 

In  manufacturing  there  was  marked  development  almost  immediately 
after  the  War  between  the  States.  Tobacco  manufacture,  the  leading 
industry,  developed  rapidly  after  1880.  Durham,  Winston-Salem,  and 
Reidsville  became  the  chief  tobacco-manufacturing  towns.  By  1900 
there  were  96  factories  in  the  State,  making  tobacco  products  worth 
$14,000,000.  Textile  manufacturing  and  the  furniture  industry  were  next 
in  importance. 

Both  agriculture  and  manufacturing  benefited  by  improved  railroad 
facilities.  In  1900  there  were  more  than  3,800  miles  of  railroads  in  the 
State,  connected  with  lines  leading  to  all  parts  of  the  United  States. 
Many  short  lines  were  consolidated  into  three  large  systems :  the  Southern 
Railway  in  the  Piedmont  and  the  west,  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line  in  the 
east,  and  the  Seaboard  Air  Line  between  the  two. 

There  was  further  need  for  improved  highways.  Roads  were  built  and 
kept  in  repair  by  the  men  of  each  township,  who  were  required  by  law 
to  work  on  the  roads  a  few  days  each  year — a  system  that  never  operated 
satisfactorily.  Before  1900,  Mecklenburg  was  the  only  county  that  had 
built  good  hard-surfaced  roads.  On  December  17,  1903 — a  date  of  great 
significance  in  the  history  of  transportation — the  first  successful  airplane 
flight  by  the  Wright  brothers  took  place  at  Kitty  Hawk. 

Most  of  the  colleges  of  the  State,  the  university,  and  the  public  schools 
had  been  closed  for  a  few  years  during  Reconstruction.  When  they  were 
reopened  they  were  seriously  hampered  by  lack  of  funds.  In  1900,  the 
schools  were  open  only  about  70  days  in  the  year,  and  teachers  were  paid 
only  about  $24  a  month.  There  were  no  compulsory  attendance  laws, 
and  only  a  little  more  than  half  of  the  children  attended. 

Toward  the  close  of  the  century  several  institutions  for  higher  educa- 
tion had  been  opened.  In  1887  the  legislature  established  at  Raleigh  the 
North  Carolina  College  of  Agriculture  and  Mechanic  Arts,  now  the 
State  College  of  Agriculture  and  Engineering  of  the  University  of  North 
Carolina.  In  1891  the  legislature  created  the  State  Normal  and  Indus- 
trial College  at  Greensboro,  now  the  Woman's  College  of  the  University 
of  North  Carolina,  to  train  women  teachers.  In  the  same  year  North 
Carolina  Agricultural  and  Technical  College  for  Negroes  was  estab- 
lished in  Greensboro,  and  the  North  Carolina  School  for  the  Deaf 
and  Dumb  at  Morganton. 

The  year  1901  marks  a  turning  point  in  North  Carolina  history.  In 


HISTORY  49 

that  year  Charles  B.  Aycock  became  Governor,  and  a  new  group,  vitally 
interested  in  the  development  of  the  State's  resources  and  the  advance- 
ment of  the  people,  took  charge  of  the  government.  Aycock  and  other 
leaders  traveled  all  over  the  State,  urging  the  people  to  vote  for  school 
taxes  and  to  provide  better  schoolhouses,  better  teachers,  and  longer 
terms. 

Hundreds  of  school  districts  followed  this  advice,  and  the  State  gov- 
ernment itself  began  to  help  build  schoolhouses.  While  Aycock  was 
Governor,  more  than  1,200  new  schoolhouses  were  built.  Teachers' 
salaries  were  raised,  the  teachers  were  better  trained,  the  number  of  stu- 
dents was  increased,  the  school  term  was  lengthened,  libraries  were 
started  in  rural  communities,  and  better  schoolbooks  were  obtained. 
Teacher-training  schools  were  established,  Negro  education  was  im- 
proved, and  a  new  day  dawned  for  education. 

Soon  after  the  United  States  entered  the  World  War  in  1917,  a  call 
for  5,100  volunteers  for  the  National  Guard  in  North  Carolina  was 
answered  by  8,500  enlistments.  Cantonments  were  established  at  Camp 
Polk,  near  Raleigh;  Camp  Greene,  near  Charlotte;  Camp  Bragg  (later 
Fort  Bragg),  in  Cumberland  and  Hoke  Counties,  and  elsewhere,  where 
several  thousand  troops  were  trained.  The  war  was  brought  to  North 
Carolina's  coast  on  August  8,  1918,  when  a  German  submarine  shelled 
and  sank  the  Diamond  Shoals  lightship.  On  August  16,  the  submarine 
torpedoed  and  sank  the  British  tanker  Mirlo  off  Rodanthe.  Members  of 
the  Chicamacomico  Coast  Guard  Station,  braving  a  sea  of  flaming  oil, 
rescued  the  crew  of  42.  North  Carolina  provided  86,457  men  for  the 
Army,  Navy,  and  Marine  Corps.  During  the  war,  833  North  Carolinians 
died  in  battle  or  of  wounds,  and  there  were  1,542  deaths  of  disease. 
The  Congressional  Medal  of  Honor  was  posthumously  awarded 
to  Lester  Blackwell,  of  Hurdle  Mills,  N.  C,  who  was  killed  near 
Saint  Souplet,  France.  The  Distinguished  Service  Cross  was  be- 
stowed upon  184  North  Carolinians  and  the  Distinguished  Service  Medal 
upon  6. 

North  Carolina,  whose  total  population  in  1930  was  3,170,276,  has 
become  industrialized  without  losing  its  rural  character.  About  80  per- 
cent of  its  people  live  in  rural  districts,  and  there  is  no  city  of  100,000 
population.  Industries  have  not  been  concentrated  to  any  great  degree. 
Cotton  mills,  tobacco  factories,  furniture  plants,  and  other  industrial 
enterprises  exist  side  by  side  in  the  same  communities. 

Kannapolis  has  the  largest  towel  mills  in  the  world,  and  Durham  the 
largest  hosiery  mill.  Badin  for  years  had  the  largest  aluminum  plant. 
Winston-Salem,  Durham,  and  Reidsville  have  the  largest  tobacco  fac- 
tories in  the  world,  and  Wilson,  Greenville,  and  Rocky  Mount  are 
among  the   largest  bright-leaf  tobacco  markets.  Greensboro  has   the 


50  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

largest  denim  mills  in  the  United  States,  and  Canton  the  largest  paper- 
pulp  mills.  High  Point  has  the  largest  furniture  factories  in  the  South. 

Steady  development  of  the  State's  natural  resources  and  gradual 
improvement  in  its  economic  condition  seem  to  be  providing  a  firm 
basis  for  a  richer  civic,  social,  and  cultural  life. 


THE       NEGROES 


OF  THE  3,170,276  people  in  North  Carolina  in  1930,  918,647,  or 
(  29  percent,  are  Negroes.  They  are  scattered  throughout  the 
State,  in  large  numbers  in  the  east  and  in  a  few  cities  of  the 
Piedmont.  Except  for  the  concentration  of  Negroes  in  tobacco-manufac- 
turing centers  the  distribution  follows  rather  closely  the  old  plantation 
regions.  The  highest  percentage  of  Negroes  is  65.2  percent  in  Warren, 
a  Coastal  Plain  county  on  the  Virginia  border,  and  the  lowest  is  in 
Graham,  a  mountain  county,  where  the  1930  census  listed  but  one 
Negro.  The  ratio  of  Negroes  to  total  population  has  shown  a  decline  in 
every  decade  since  1880. 

History.  When  the  earliest  permanent  settlements  were  made  in 
North  Carolina  in  the  middle  of  the  17th  century,  Negroes  were  brought 
in  as  slave  laborers.  The  plantation  regime  developed  first  in  the  tobacco 
belt  along  the  eastern  end  of  the  Virginia  boundary.  By  1767  Negroes 
outnumbered  whites  in  three  eastern  counties,  and  in  three  others  were 
nearly  as  numerous.  In  1880  they  constituted  38  percent  of  the  total 
population  of  the  State. 

The  headman  among  the  slaves  on  a  plantation  was  the  driver,  or 
foreman,  who  staked  ofl  the  "tasks"  in  the  morning  and  checked  them 
off  at  night.  When  a  slave  finished  his  "task"  he  was  through  for  the  day 
and  could  use  his  time  as  he  wished.  Usually  less  than  half  of  a  planter's 
slaves  were  prime  hands,  able  to  do  a  full  day's  work. 

House  servants  and  skilled  tradesmen  ranked  above  field  hands.  But- 
lers, coachmen,  cooks,  seamstresses,  nurses,  weavers,  carpenters,  black- 
smiths, cobblers,  and  other  skilled  slaves  had  a  high  value.  The  selection 
of  the  more  teachable  children  for  these  trades,  the  opportunity  offered 
them  to  acquire  habits  and  skills,  and  their  closer  association  with  the 
white  people,  gave  them  a  special  status. 

Slaves  could  not  own  property  in  land,  houses,  or  livestock,  but  they 
were  not  without  money.  Many  masters  gave  rewards  for  work  done 
beyond  the  allotted  task.  Slaves  were  given  plots  around  the  cabins  and 
were  encouraged  to  have  gardens  and  fowls.  Slave  artisans  were  fre- 

5 1' 


52  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

quently  hired  out  by  their  masters,  or  were  permitted  to  hire  themselves 
out — on  paying  the  master  a  fixed  annual  sum. 

In  numerous  instances,  slaves  worked  under  less  favorable  circum- 
stances. The  task  system  was  not  always  well-regulated  and  it  was  not 
always  used.  The  majority  of  plantations  in  North  Carolina  had  fewer 
than  10  slaves.  On  the  smallest  plantations  with  two  or  three  slaves 
the  master  and  his  family  generally  worked  in  the  fields  with  the 
Negroes. 

Restrictions  increased  after  Nat  Turner's  rebellion  in  Virginia  in 
1831,  and  a  few  slave  conspiracies  in  North  Carolina.  Laws  prohibited 
slaves  from  holding  meetings,  leaving  the  plantation  without  written 
permits,  possessing  firearms,  learning  to  read  and  write,  or  being  manu- 
mitted except  for  meritorious  service  (which  had  to  be  proved  before  a 
court),  and  limited  the  race  in  many  other  ways.  All  Negroes,  bond  and 
free,  as  well  as  Indians,  were  held  incapable  of  witnessing  in  court 
against  white  persons. 

The  number  of  free  Negroes  in  1790,  the  first  accurate  estimate,  was 
4,975 — not  a  large  number,  but  larger  than  in  any  State  except  Mary- 
land and  Virginia.  Slaves  at  that  date  numbered  100,572  and  whites 
288,204.  By  i860  the  number  of  free  Negroes  had  increased  to  30,463, 
and  slaves  to  331,059. 

Negroes  were  free  if  they  had  emigrated  from  free  States,  if  they  had 
been  freed  legally  by  former  owners,  or  if  they  were  the  product  of 
mixed  unions  in  which  the  mother  was  free  and  the  father  a  slave.  The 
majority  of  the  white  people,  rich  and  poor,  resented  the  presence  of 
free  Negroes  in  their  society.  Masters  could  have  caught  runaways  much 
oftener  but  for  the  numbers  of  free  Negroes.  Poor  white  laborers  and 
mechanics  resented  them  for  both  economic  and  social  reasons.  Many 
protests  came  from  mechanics'  associations  against  free  Negro  work- 
men and  the  practice  of  hiring  out  skilled  slaves. 

Towns  usually  required  free  Negroes  to  register  and  wear  badges. 
Curfew  laws  were  passed  for  the  purpose  of  clearing  the  streets  of 
Negroes  by  10  o'clock,  or  some  other  evening  hour.  They  lost  the  vote  in 
1835,  a  privilege  until  then  of  the  few  who  could  meet  the  property 
qualification  that  applied  to  whites  as  well. 

Rigorous  as  were  the  laws,  however,  many  free  Negroes  prospered 
and  some  accumulated  wealth.  The  fight  for  freedom  continued  despite 
the  difficulties  facing  abolitionists  working  in  a  slave  community.  One 
of  the  prominent  abolitionists  of  the  State  was  Lunsford  Lane,  a  former 
slave  who  had  purchased  his  own  and  his  family's  freedom.  Vestal  and 
Levi  Coffin,  famed  operators  of  the  Underground  Railroad  along  the 
banks  of  the  Ohio,  began  their  operations  as  early  as  1819  during  their 
residence  in  North  Carolina. 


THE    NEGROES  53 

When  emancipation  was  proclaimed,  April  28,  1865,  the  natural  reac- 
tion of  the  former  slaves  was  to  test  their  new  freedom  by  moving  about 
at  will  and  doing  those  things  which  they  had  previously  been  restricted 
from  doing.  "To  abandon  his  plow  in  the  middle  of  the  row,"  writes  the 
historian  Connor,  "to  stride  defiantly  by  his  former  master,  out  of  the 
yard,  and  down  the  dusty  road — that,  indeed,  was  a  test  of  freedom  that 
even  the  most  ignorant  Negro  could  understand.  Thousands  of  Negroes 
followed  Sherman's  army  as  it  marched  through  North  Carolina;  other 
thousands  flocked  into  Wilmington,  New  Bern,  Goldsboro,  Raleigh, 
and  other  large  towns,  lured  from  the  plantations  by  the  excitements  of 
town  life  and  the  presence  of  Federal  troops.  Relaxation  of  discipline, 
idleness,  and  crowding  bore  their  inevitable  harvest  of  destitution, 
disease,  and  crime." 

The  problem  of  the  freedmen  was  not  one  which  the  former  masters, 
now  destitute,  were  in  any  mood  to  consider  sympathetically.  The  Fed- 
eral Government  met  the  problem  by  creating  the  Freedmen's  Bureau 
and  giving  it  control  of  all  matters  relating  to  former  slaves  in  the 
South.  The  bureau  operated  in  North  Carolina  from  July  1865  to  Jan- 
uary 1869.  About  $1,500,000  worth  of  food  was  distributed  in  the  State, 
431  schools  were  established  enrolling  20,227  pupils,  and  more  than 
40,000  patients  were  treated  in  hospitals.  Many  destitute  whites  shared 
in  these  benefits. 

Causes  for  bitterness  between  the  races  were  many  at  this  period. 
Theories  of  social  and  political  equality  antagonized  not  only  the  former 
owning  class,  but  the  great  majority  of  white  people.  Even  those  mas- 
ters who,  during  the  slave  regime,  supported  a  tradition  of  benevolent 
paternalism,  could  not  adjust  themselves  readily  to  a  new  system.  They 
were,  besides,  disfranchised  and  bankrupt.  The  nonowning  class  (two- 
thirds  of  the  white  population)  never  had  cause  to  develop  a  feeling  of 
responsibility  and  personal  attachment  to  Negroes,  but  on  the  other 
hand  had  to  meet  their  competition  in  labor.  The  poorest  white  labor- 
ers, artisans,  and  farmers,  who  frequently  lived  under  harder  conditions 
than  the  more  favored  slaves,  were  usually  loudest  in  their  assertions  of 
superiority  over  the  Negro. 

Health  and  Public  Welfare.  On  January  1,  1936,  through  the  cooper- 
ation of  the  Julius  Rosenwald  Fund,  a  Negro  physician  was  added  to 
the  State  division  of  county  health  work  as  field  agent  to  work  with 
local  health  officers  for  public  health  education  among  Negroes.  This 
was  the  first  service  of  its  kind  to  be  rendered  in  the  United  States. 

The  death  rate  for  Negroes  in  North  Carolina  was  15.2  per  thousand 
in  1925,  and  12.2  in  1935;  for  whites,  9.9  in  1925  and  8.7  in  1935.  Although 
the  white  rate  is  lower  than  the  average  for  the  registration  area,  and  the 
Negro  rate  is  falling,  the  figures  would  be  considerably  smaller  but  for 


54  NORTH    CAROLINA:     GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

the  infant  and  maternity  death  rate.  This  situation  is  due  to  the  preva- 
lence of  untrained  midwives  who  deliver  the  great  majority  of  Negro 
babies.  The  division  of  maternity  and  infancy  of  the  State  board,  and 
the  county  offices  are  combating  these  evils  by  licensing,  instructing,  and 
supervising  midwives,  by  distributing  pamphlets  on  infant  care  and 
diet,  and  by  sending  out  nurses  to  make  visits  and  give  personal  advice. 

The  State  Orthopedic  Hospital,  established  at  Gastonia  in  1921,  has 
maintained  a  ward  for  Negro  children  since  1926.  In  1930,  the  Benjamin 
N.  Duke  Memorial  Ward,  a  50-bed  unit,  was  opened.  Orthopedic  clinics 
are  held  at  15  points  in  the  State.  Treatment  is  free  for  those  unable  to 
pay.  In  1938  there  were  30  hospitals  in  the  State  for  white  people  only, 
11  for  Negroes  only,  and  114  admitting  both  races.  All  hospitals  sup- 
ported by  city,  county,  or  State  funds,  24  in  number,  are  in  the  last- 
named  class. 

The  incidence  of  tuberculosis  is  high  among  Negroes,  and  there  is 
some  evidence  that  they  have  less  resistance  to  the  disease  than  do  white 
people.  The  State  sanatorium  for  the  treatment  of  tuberculosis  has  had 
a  division  for  Negroes  since  1923. 

A  concerted,  vigorous  attack  on  venereal  diseases  was  inaugurated  in 
1938.  The  venereal  morbidity  rate  is  known  to  be  higher  among  Negroes 
than  whites.  In  eastern  North  Carolina  the  ravages  of  these  diseases 
have  been  checked  to  some  extent  by  the  widespread  but  not  unmixed 
evil  of  malaria. 

In  1925  a  special  division  for  Negro  work  was  set  up  in  the  State 
Board  of  Charities  and  Public  Welfare  with  funds  provided  by  the 
Laura  Spelman  Rockefeller  Memorial.  The  objectives  of  the  division 
have  been  community  organization,  placement  of  trained  workers, 
school  attendance,  studies  of  the  Negro  family  and  community,  promo- 
tion of  institutes  for  the  supplementary  training  of  social  workers,  and 
cooperation  with  the  executive  counsel  in  matters  relating  to  pardons 
and  paroles. 

State  institutions  for  the  welfare  of  Negroes  in  North  Carolina  are 
the  Morrison  Training  School  for  Negro  Boys  at  Hoffman,  the  Colored 
Orphanage  of  North  Carolina  at  Oxford,  the  State  Hospital  for  Negro 
Insane  at  Goldsboro,  and  the  School  for  Blind  and  Deaf  at  Raleigh.  The 
Memorial  Training  School,  near  Winston-Salem,  was  founded  in  1900 
as  the  Colored  Baptist  Orphanage,  and  was  incorporated  under  a  new 
board  of  Winston-Salem  citizens,  and  a  new  name,  in  1923.  The  North 
Carolina  Industrial  School  for  Negro  Girls  at  Efland  is  an  institution 
for  delinquent  girls  between  the  ages  of  14  and  16.  Its  establishment  in 
1925  was  made  possible  by  the  efforts  of  the  Federation  of  Negro 
Women's  Clubs  of  North  Carolina. 

The  Negro  Farmer.    Probably  the  most  crucial  social  problem  in 


THENEGROES  55 

North  Carolina  and  throughout  the  South  is  the  system  of  farm  tenancy. 
In  1935,  Negroes  owned  or  operated  69,373  farms.  There  were  20,373 
owners,  48,985  tenants  and  croppers,  and  15  managers.  The  ratio  of 
owners  is  greatest  where  Negro  population  is  sparsest. 

Occupations  and  Town  Life.  Negroes  are  employed  as  operatives 
in  tobacco  factories  in  North  Carolina,  to  a  lesser  extent  as  hosiery  mill 
workers,  but  in  furniture  and  textile  plants  they  do  only  sweeping, 
cleaning,  and  freight  handling.  The  only  unionization  of  Negroes  in 
the  State  is  that  of  the  tobacco  factory  workers.  Plumbers,  painters, 
brickmasons,  and  all  skilled  trades  are  not  unionized  to  any  extent. 
Negro  women  find  most  of  their  jobs  in  domestic  service  at  low  wages, 
and  in  laundries.  Barber  shops  and  pressing  and  cleaning  concerns  are 
generally  the  only  Negro  establishments  to  be  found  on  the  main  streets. 
An  occasional  restaurant  or  tailoring  establishment  may  be  situated  out- 
side the  Negro  section,  as  are  the  few  large  business  houses. 

Insurance  is  the  largest  field  of  business  in  which  Negroes  are  engaged 
in  North  Carolina.  The  North  Carolina  Mutual  Life  Insurance  Com- 
pany of  Durham  is  the  largest  business  in  the  country  run  by  Negroes. 
Of  the  23  Negro  banks  in  the  country  which  survived  the  depression, 
two  are  in  North  Carolina,  the  Mechanics'  &  Farmers'  Bank  in  Durham 
and  ah  affiliated  bank  in  Raleigh.  The  State  ranked  third  among  the 
South  Atlantic  States  in  1935  in  the  number  of  retail  stores  operated  by 
Negroes.  Nine  hundred  and  seventy-three  establishments  made  net  sales 
of  $1,088,000. 

Most  Negroes  of  the  professional  class  in  North  Carolina  are  public 
school  teachers,  the  number  in  1930  being  5,607.  There  were  at  that  time 
372  registered  nurses,  246  college  professors  and  college  presidents,  206 
musicians  and  music  teachers  of  professional  rank,  164  physicians  and 
surgeons,  68  dentists,  and  27  lawyers.  Negro  preachers  vary  greatly  in 
their  training  and  leadership,  but  among  their  number  (1,575  m  I93°) 
many  are  of  professional  status. 

In  North  Carolina  towns,  as  in  most  southern  towns,  there  are  seg- 
regated sections  for  Negroes,  and  in  these  sections  housing  and  sanita- 
tion generally  have  been  inadequate.  Exploitive  landlordism  on  the  part 
of  many  white  owners,  and  to  a  lesser  extent,  of  Negro  owners  as  well, 
has  been  an  almost  unregulated  evil. 

Negro  society  is  stratified  in  a  way  similar  to  white  society,  a  fact 
seldom  realized  by  white  people.  The  average  white  person  never  has 
any  dealings  with  Negro  professors,  lawyers,  doctors,  insurance  men, 
merchants,  or  restaurant  operators,  though  he  has  many  contacts  with 
Negro  laborers.  However,  there  is  probably  more  feeling  of  identity  of 
interest  among  all  classes  of  Negroes  than  among  all  classes  of  white 
people,  as  they  are  all  subject  to  the  same  restrictions. 


$6  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

Education.  An  amendment  to  the  State  constitution  was  made  in 
1875,  providing  that  ".  . .  the  children  of  the  white  race  and  the  children 
of  the  colored  race  shall  be  taught  in  separate  public  schools;  but  there 
shall  be  no  discrimination  in  favor  of,  or  to  the  prejudice  of,  either 
race. . . ." 

White  schools  at  the  turn  of  the  century  were  inadequate,  and  Negro 
schools  lagged  behind  them.  A  revolution  in  public  sentiment  took  place 
about  1901,  when  Charles  B.  Aycock,  North  Carolina's  "educational 
Governor,"  took  office  after  a  campaign  centering  about  white  suprem- 
acy in  politics,  and  better  educational  facilities  for  Negro  as  well  as  white 
children.  Before  that  time  Governor  Vance,  in  1877,  had  assisted  in  the 
establishment  of  a  normal  school  for  Negro  teachers  at  Fayetteville.  It 
is  the  earliest  institution  of  its  kind  for  either  race  in  the  South  that  has 
continued  to  operate.  In  the  20  years  following  1917  the  Julius  Rosen- 
wald  Fund,  the  Anna  T.  Jeanes  Fund,  the  John  F.  Slater  Fund,  and  the 
General  Education  Board  contributed  more  than  $2,500,000  to  Negro 
education  in  this  State. 

Emphasis  upon  the  training  of  teachers  for  the  public  schools  has 
been  a  large  factor  in  the  improvement  of  higher  institutions  for  Ne- 
groes, both  public  and  private.  There  are  five  State  institutions  of  col- 
legiate grade  in  North  Carolina,  and  eight  private  colleges.  The  general 
assemblies  of  1921  and  1923  appropriated  nearly  $2,000,000  for  perma- 
nent improvements  at  the  Negro  colleges  and  for  a  10-year  period 
(1921-31)  gave  support  to  the  departments  of  education  in  certain  private 
schools.  The  total  enrollment  of  Negro  college  students  increased  from 
479  in  1924-25  to  nearly  4,000  in  1935-36. 

In  1935  there  was  set  up  in  the  State  the  division  of  cooperation  in 
education  and  race  relations.  The  State  Department  of  Public  Instruc- 
tion, the  University  of  North  Carolina,  and  Duke  University  organized 
to  form  the  division  and  are  carrying  out  plans  to  make  available  to 
Negro  scholars  the  library  resources  of  these  institutions;  to  hold  clinics 
for  Negro  physicians  and  surgeons,  and  institutes  for  Negro  ministers, 
and  to  encourage  research  in  several  phases  of  Negro  history. 

Customary  Racial  Discretions  and  Discriminations.  Separate 
schools  for  Negroes  as  a  policy  in  public  education  provide  opportunities 
which  mixed  schools  could  not  carry  out  in  practice. 

The  former  deplorable  lack  of  provision  for  Negroes  in  hospitals  is 
being  remedied.  For  example,  work  was  begun  in  Wilmington  in  Sep- 
tember 1938  on  a  $125,000  community  hospital  for  Negroes.  The  present 
tendency  is  for  hospitals  to  have  wards  for  both  races.  Separate  hospitals 
for  Negroes  provide  opportunity  for  the  directorship  and  practice  of 
Negro  doctors  and  the  training  of  Negro  nurses,  though  Negro  doctors 
may  attend  members  of  their  race  in  hospitals  that  admit  both  races. 


THE     NEGROES  57 

The  color  line  has  divided  all  the  churches  since  emancipation.  Before 
the  war  there  were  some  independent  congregations  of  Negroes  in  the 
State,  but  after  1831  it  was  illegal  for  them  to  have  Negro  ministers. 
White  ministers  were  assigned  these  congregations  by  church  organiza- 
tions, but  the  usual  custom  was  for  slaves  to  attend  the  masters'  churches 
in  special  galleries  or  sections  of  the  buildings.  After  the  war,  Negro 
churches  were  organized  with  great  rapidity.  The  latest  census  of  re- 
ligious bodies  (1926)  lists  3,203  churches  with  a  total  membership  of 
431,333  for  Negroes  in  North  Carolina.  Negro  ministers  serve  almost 
all  churches  of  the  race. 

Until  recent  years  in  North  Carolina,  but  few  recreational  facilities 
were  available  for  Negroes.  Since  1933  some  progress  has  been  made  in 
providing  the  Negroes  with  parks,  playgrounds,  and  swimming  pools 
in  projects  sponsored  by  the  Federal  Government  in  cooperation  with 
local  efforts.  The  races  are  separated  in  jails,  prisons,  and  poorhouses  but 
accommodations  are  generally  the  same. 

Negroes  have  their  own  motion  picture  houses,  restaurants,  and 
hotels,  and  occupy  gallery  seats  at  some  white  theaters.  They  have  had 
only  limited  use  of  public  libraries.  Separate  coaches  are  provided  on 
trains.  Pullman  tickets  can  be  bought  on  some  lines,  but  the  use  of  the 
dining  car  is  prohibited.  Separate  waiting  rooms  are  the  rule  in  train 
and  bus  stations.  Buses  and  streetcars  assign  the  Negroes  seats  in  the 
rear. 

Even  educated  Negroes  frequently  find  it  difficult  to  register  and  vote. 
Participation  in  civic  affairs  such  as  officeholding,  policing,  and  jury 
service  is  practically  nonexistent.  As  a  result  of  the  Supreme  Court 
decision  in  the  much-publicized  Scottsboro  case,  Negroes  are,  for  the 
first  time  since  Reconstruction,  being  drawn  for  jury  panels,  though  few 
as  yet  have  served  as  jurors. 

Aside  from  these  traditional  racial  distinctions  and  discriminations, 
however,  North  Carolina  bears  a  reputation  for  favorable  race  relations. 
This  is  perhaps  partly  due  to  the  State's  high  educational  rating.  In 
education,  social  welfare,  and  economic  advance  much  has  been  done 
for  and  by  Negroes  in  North  Carolina.  It  is  likewise  true  that  much 
more  remains  to  be  done. 


AGRICULTURE 


INDUSTRIAL  development  has  brought  no  decline  in  agriculture 
in  North  Carolina,  and  the  number  of  farms  is  constantly  increasing. 
Although  the  crop  land  harvested  represents  only  one-fourth  of  the 
total  land  area,  North  Carolina  ranks  among  the  five  leading  States  in 
value  of  crop  production.  A  variety  of  soils,  equable  temperature,  and 
abundant  rainfall  make  it  possible  to  produce  almost  any  crop  that  can 
be  grown  from  Florida  to  Canada. 

The  first  settlers  who  came  down  from  Virginia  and  occupied  the 
seaboard  found  the  inlets  of  the  coast  too  treacherous  and  shallow  to 
admit  large  vessels,  and  the  agricultural  produce  of  the  Coastal  Plain 
was  sent  to  Norfolk,  Va.,  for  shipment  abroad.  The  rivers  that  drained 
the  North  Carolina  Piedmont  flowed  southeasterly  into  South  Carolina, 
and  the  port  of  Charleston,  therefore,  received  the  agricultural  produce 
of  the  back  country. 

This  commercial  handicap  had  a  direct  bearing  on  the  kind  of  settlers 
first  attracted  to  North  Carolina.  Farmers  with  a  large  amount  of  capital 
were  slow  to  move  into  the  Colony.  Extensive  development  of  the  plan- 
tation system  was  hindered  by  lack  of  capital,  and  Colonial  North  Caro- 
lina evolved  a  type  of  small  farm,  isolated  and  self-sufficing. 

In  1715  the  population  of  the  Colony  was  11,200,  and  of  these  3,700 
were  slaves.  There  were  a  few  people  of  considerable  wealth  who  owned 
large  plantations.  On  the  other  hand  many  industrious  small  farmers 
owned  but  two  or  three  slaves,  or  none  at  all,  but  who  managed  to  pro- 
duce tobacco,  corn,  livestock,  and  lumber  products  for  export. 

Some  indication  of  what  was  thought  a  "considerable  estate"  in  early 
18th-century  North  Carolina  is  to  be  seen  in  a  letter  of  about  1710 
describing  the  will  of  a  planter  who  left : 

A  very  good  plantation,  upon  which  he  lives,  with  all  the  houses  and 
some  household  furniture,  two  slaves  and  their  increase  forever,  together 
with  a  stock  of  cows,  sheep,  hogs  and  horses,  with  their  increase  forever,  all 
which  .  .  .  may  moderately  be  valued  at  ^200. 

Most  of  the  settlers  in  the  Coastal  Plain  were  English  farmers,  but  by 
1775  a  large  group  of  Scotch  Highlanders  occupied  the  upper  Cape  Fear 

58 


AGRICULTURE  59 

River  and  its  tributaries.  Some  Scotch-Irish  immigrants  landed  at 
Charleston  and  moved  up  the  Pee  Dee  and  Catawba  Rivers  to  the  hill 
country.  But  the  greater  number  of  sturdy  pioneer  farmers,  Scotch-Irish 
and  German,  landed  at  Philadelphia  and  came  by  wagon  to  North 
Carolina. 

The  Germans,  who  usually  came  in  organized  bodies,  chose  the  rich 
bottom  lands  of  the  Piedmont  and  from  the  beginning  practiced  diver- 
sified farming.  The  cultivation  of  meadowlands  was  a  distinctive  fea- 
ture of  German  agriculture,  and  the  livestock  on  German  farms  was 
superior. 

Tobacco  was  the  chief  export  crop  of  the  Colony.  Indian  corn,  peas, 
beans,  potatoes,  cotton,  indigo,  and  some  wheat  were  also  exported. 
Many  planters  kept  large  herds  of  cattle,  which  they  left  to  range 
unsheltered  and  to  forage  for  themselves.  Pork,  tallow,  and  hides  were 
important  exports,  and  some  cheese  and  butter  were  sent  out  of  the 
Colony.  Rice  was  grown  for  domestic  use.  Many  varieties  of  native  and 
European  fruits  were  cultivated,  hemp  and  flax  were  grown  for  home 
use,  and,  with  wool  and  cotton,  supplied  materials  for  clothes. 

Farming  in  general  was  wasteful  and  extravagant,  for  land  was  plenti- 
ful and  the  bounties  of  nature  seemed  inexhaustible.  "Surely,"  observed 
Byrd  of  Virginia,  "there  is  no  place  in  the  World  where  the  inhabitants 
live  with  less  Labour  than  in  N.  Carolina, . . .  where  Plenty  and  a  Warm 
Sun  confirm  them  in  their  Disposition  to  Laziness  for  their  whole 
Lives."  Yet  even  in  the  Colonial  period  there  were  many  farmers  who 
called  attention  to  wasteful  methods  and  urged  intensive  farming. 

By  1852  a  State  agricultural  society  had  been  formed  and  many  coun- 
ties were  organizing  similar  societies.  Several  agricultural  journals  ap- 
peared, among  them  the  Farmer's  Advocate,  the  Carolina  Cultivator, 
and  the  North  Carolina  Planter.  Most  significant  of  the  agricultural 
studies  was  the  report  on  soils  made  by  Ebenezer  Emmons,  State  geolo- 
gist from  1852  to  1863. 

The  War  between  the  States  stimulated  the  production  of  foodstuffs, 
but  from  1865  to  1900  the  North  Carolina  farmer  became  steadily  poorer. 
Cotton  dropped  from  a  dollar  a  pound  in  1865  to  25  cents  a  pound  in 
1868.  In  the  next  three  decades  it  dropped  to  12  cents,  to  7  cents,  and 
finally,  in  1894,  it  fell  below  5  cents  a  pound. 

The  farmer,  buying  at  high  prices  and  selling  near  the  level  of  pro- 
duction, was  forced  to  run  on  a  credit  basis.  The  merchant  financed  the 
farmer,  taking  a  lien  on  the  crops.  In  return  for  the  risk  he  took,  the 
merchant  demanded  a  price  that  averaged  higher  than  the  cash  price, 
so  that  the  farmer  paid  as  much  as  40  percent  annual  interest  and 
sometimes  more.  The  farmer  was  consequently  driven  to  plant  money 
crops — cotton  and  tobacco — at  the  expense  of  food  crops.  He  was  in  the 


60  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

hopeless  position  of  trying  to  pay  for  his  food  and  his  farm  supplies  out 
of  the  proceeds  of  his  money  crop. 

The  rise  of  farm  tenancy,  more  than  any  other  factor,  forced  single- 
crop  farming  in  North  Carolina.  The  War  between  the  States  had 
broken  the  existing  plantations  into  small  farms,  and  changed  the  rela- 
tionship between  landowners  and  laborers.  Landowners,  deprived  of 
slave  labor,  had  either  to  rent  their  land  for  cash,  pay  wages,  or  let  the 
land  to  tenants  on  shares. 

Since  both  the  landowners  and  the  landless  Negroes  and  whites  who 
furnished  the  labor  had  practically  no  money,  sharecropping  was  the 
logical  development.  Under  this  system  the  landowner  furnished  the 
tenant  with  team,  implements,  and  seed,  and  received  from  the  tenant 
one-half  to  two-thirds  of  the  staple  crops  after  harvest.  He  also  advanced 
provisions  for  the  tenant  family,  and  received  payment  in  either  cash  or 
crops. 

There  was  opposition  to  sharecropping  at  the  outset.  The  Recon- 
structed Farmer,  edited  at  Tarboro,  believed  that: 

What  demoralizes  the  labor  of  our  country  more  than  anything  else  is 
farming  on  shares.  .  .  .  The  manner  in  which  share  laborers  are  managed 
is  a  curse  to  the  country,  for  in  many  instances  they  are  put  off  on  land  .  .  . 
that  will  not  support  them  the  first  year,  no  matter  how  good  the  cultiva- 
tion of  the  crop  may  be. . 

North  Carolina  farmers  were  moved  by  the  same  desperation  that 
was  driving  farmers  all  over  the  country  to  organize.  Already  the  Farm- 
ers' Alliance  Cooperative  Union  had  swept  the  Southwest.  In  North 
Carolina  the  Grange  had  appeared  in  1873,  attained  a  membership  of 
about  10,000  in  1875,  and  then  declined. 

In  1887  the  Farmers'  Alliance  was  organized  in  the  State  under  the 
leadership  of  Leonidas  Polk.  A  practical  farmer  himself,  Polk  had  begun 
publication  of  the  Progressive  Farmer  at  Winston  in  1866,  and  had 
moved  the  weekly  to  Raleigh  when  he  became  State  Commissioner  of 
Agriculture.  The  Alliance  spread  until  in  1890  local  chapters  had  been 
formed  in  every  county  but  one,  and  the  total  membership  was  more 
than  90,000. 

The  Alliance  drew  the  farmers  together  for  education  and  entertain- 
ment. There  were  discussions  of  agricultural  problems,  institutes  to 
spread  the  knowledge  of  scientific  farming,  agricultural  clubs,  and  fairs. 
The  farmers  actively  supported  the  reorganization  of  the  State  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture,  the  establishment  at  Raleigh  of  the  North  Carolina 
College  of  Agriculture  and  Mechanic  Arts,  and  of  the  State  Normal 
and  Industrial  College  for  women  at  Greensboro. 

Through  a  State  agency  set  up  by  the  Alliance,  farmers  were  able  to 


AGRICULTURE  6l 

purchase  directly  from  the  manufacturer  implements,  fertilizers,  and 
even  food  supplies  at  a  saving  of  from  10  to  60  percent.  The  small  capital, 
which  was  raised  by  selling  shares  to  farmers,  made  long-time  credit 
impossible,  and  most  of  the  farmers  were  tied  fast  by  the  crop-lien  system 
and  could  not  take  advantage  of  the  saving  offered  them.  Merchants 
fought  the  inexperienced  cooperatives,  until  the  panic  of  1893  finally 
put  an  end  to  them. 

As  conditions  grew  steadily  worse,  the  farmers  organized  as  the 
Populist  Party.  Joining  with  the  Republicans  this  party  succeeded  in 
bringing  about  the  election  of  a  Fusionist  ticket  in  1896. 

Since  1900  the  number  of  farms  in  the  State  has  continued  to  increase, 
partly  as  a  result  of  the  great  improvement  in  roads,  partly  because  much 
potential  farm  land  remained  unused.  One  million  six  hundred  thou- 
sand people  live  on  North  Carolina  farms,  the  second  largest  farm  popu- 
lation of  the  48  States.  In  1930  there  were  almost  twice  as  many  persons 
classified  as  farmers  as  there  were  persons  classified  as  urban  dwellers, 
and  of  the  total  population  50.5  percent  lived  on  farms.  Though  the 
average  size  of  farms  is  small,  the  average  cash  return  per  farm  in  1930 
was  high — almost  a  thousand  dollars.  In  the  value  of  farm  products  the 
State  in  1937  ranked  second  to  Texas  among  the  Southern  States,  and 
fifth  in  the  United  States. 

Agriculture  is  not  limited  to  any  particular  section,  although  the  cen- 
tral and  southeastern  portions,  comprising  some  22,000  square  miles, 
are  particularly  favored  and  contain  some  of  the  richest  farm  land  in 
eastern  America. 

In  the  southern  part  of  the  Coastal  Plain  diversified  farming  is  increas- 
ing. Remarkable  success  has  been  achieved  by  individuals  and  groups 
through  intensive  truck  farming  and  flower  growing.  Of  increasing 
importance  is  the  strawberry  crop,  valued  at  approximately  $2,000,000  a 
year.  Large  productive  farms  in  this  region  ship  quantities  of  early  truck 
to  outside  markets  and  also  produce  cotton,  corn,  tobacco,  soybeans,  and 
sweet  and  Irish  potatoes. 

Tobacco,  cotton,  and  corn  are  the  chief  crops  of  the  State,  and  tobacco 
now  brings  to  North  Carolina  farmers  a  greater  revenue  than  any  other 
crop.  Tobacco  is  raised  in  the  central  Coastal  Plain,  the  Piedmont,  along 
the  South  Carolina  border,  and  in  the  mountains,  where  burley  is  the 
variety  produced.  In  1937  the  crop  was  valued  at  more  than  $141,000,000. 
In  1919,  with  cotton  at  35  cents  a  pound,  the  total  crop  of  the  State  was 
valued  at  $130,000,000;  in  1935,  at  the  low  price  of  n1/^  cents  per  pound, 
the  total  crop  value  was  approximately  $41,000,000. 

The  Sandhill  section  produces  millions  of  bushels  of  peaches  for 
northern  and  eastern  markets.  Dewberries,  grown  in  great  quantities  in 
this  section,  are  noted  for  their  size  and  flavor. 


62  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

Farming  is  more  diversified  in  the  Piedmont,  where  a  large  urban 
population  in  the  industrial  centers  provides  a  good  market.  The  chief 
products  are  grain,  fruits,  vegetables,  tobacco,  and  cotton.  The  Pied- 
mont has  a  high  percentage  of  farm  owners  and  a  more  balanced  farm 
program,  but  it,  like  the  Coastal  Plain,  suffers  from  a  deficiency  in  live- 
stock and  dairy  products. 

The  Mountain  Region  is  an  area  of  diversified  farming  on  a  domestic 
scale.  With  the  exception  of  potatoes,  cabbage,  and  tobacco,  products 
grown  for  sale  represent  only  a  small  part  of  the  total  agricultural  prod- 
uce. Tobacco  is  the  only  money  crop  of  any  importance.  Other  crops 
are  corn,  wheat,  a  little  buckwheat,  oats,  rye,  sorghum,  late  varieties  of 
Irish  potatoes,  and  hay.  Beef  cattle  and  sheep  are  raised  in  considerable 
numbers,  and  the  region  is  particularly  adapted  to  poultry  raising  and 
dairying.  Cheese  making  is  an  important  industry  in  the  northwestern 
counties.  Fertile  valleys,  especially  those  in  the  thermal  belt,  are  par- 
ticularly suited  to  fruit  growing  and  truck  farming. 

Many  farm  families  in  the  Mountain  Region  derive  an  income  from 
the  cultivation  and  gathering  of  drug  plants,  especially  ginseng  and 
golden  seal.  There  is  some  income  from  the  sale  of  ornamental  leaves 
and  shrubbery,  and  a  trend  toward  the  cultivation  of  mountain  shrubbery 
for  commercial  purposes. 

Corn,  one  of  the  great  crops  of  North  Carolina  before  the  coming  of 
the  white  man,  is  produced  in  every  county.  In  1935  the  value  of  the 
crop  to  the  State  was  a  little  more  than  $32,000,000. 

Although  North  Carolina  is  still  deficient  in  livestock,  in  1935  there 
were  684,266  head  of  cattle,  an  increase  of  nearly  30  percent  over  the 
previous  five  years.  In  the  same  year,  2,500,000  pounds  of  dairy  butter, 
26,000,000  pounds  of  farm  butter,  and  30,000,000  gallons  of  fluid  milk 
were  produced.  There  were  362,104  horses  and  mules,  947,143  swine, 
8,806,000  chickens,  and  90,708  turkeys  on  North  Carolina  farms. 

Between  1932  and  1935  the  gross  income  of  North  Carolina  farmers 
rose  to  slightly  over  $300,000,000,  more  than  doubling  in  three  years. 
These  figures  indicate,  among  other  things,  the  increasing  interest  the 
farmers  are  taking  in  a  balanced  farm  program  and  the  conservation 
of  soil. 

One  of  the  most  serious  economic  and  social  problems  with  which 
North  Carolina  has  to  deal  is  farm  tenancy.  Almost  half  the  farms  in  the 
State  are  operated  by  tenants  who  have  little  chance  for  farm  owner- 
ship. Most  of  these  tenants  live  on  the  Coastal  Plain,  where  the  large 
cotton  and  tobacco  crops  are  produced.  They  frequently  move  from 
farm  to  farm,  and  are  drawn  to  the  factories  by  the  promise  of  ready 
money. 

Extensive  programs  in  reclamation,  conservation,  and  rehabilitation 


AGRICULTURE  63 

are  being  carried  on  in  North  Carolina  by  State  and  Federal  agencies. 
Experiment  farms  and  nurseries  are  conducted  by  the  State  in  the 
Coastal,  Piedmont,  and  Mountain  sections  and  many  of  the  counties 
maintain  farm  agents  and  home  demonstration  agents.  The  State 
College  Extension  Service  is  conducting  a  program  to  encourage  bal- 
anced farming,  increased  livestock  production,  and  more  scientific  utili- 
zation of  the  land.  The  first  4-H  club  was  organized  in  1909  in  Hertford 
County.  There  are  now  (1939)  1,500  such  clubs  in  the  State  with  a  total 
membership  of  43,000. 

The  Farm  Security  Administration  of  the  U.  S.  Department  of  Agri- 
culture has  organized  subsistence  homestead  projects  at  Scuppernong 
Farms,  on  the  border  of  Lake  Phelps  in  Tyrrell  and  Washington  Coun- 
ties, and  at  Penderlea,  in  Pender  County.  Projects  for  demonstration  in 
soil  conservation,  especially  erosion  control,  were  established  in  numer- 
ous sections  of  the  State  by  Federal  Government  agencies  during  the 
1930's. 


MODES       OF       TRAVEL 


THE  FIRST  settlers  in  North  Carolina  found  Indian  trails  that 
penetrated  the  dense  forests  in  many  directions.  These  trails, 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches  wide,  which  led  by  the  most  direct 
route  from  stream  to  stream,  were  the  first  trading  paths  of  the  colonists 
and  were  the  basis  for  many  of  their  roads.  Wherever  possible  the 
Indians  traveled  by  water;  the  white  settlers  wisely  followed  their 
example,  learning  from  them  how  to  build  canoes  from  the  materials 
at  hand. 

The  earliest  settlements  were  made  on  the  coast  and  along  the  many 
rivers  of  the  Coastal  Plain.  Merchants  and  farmers  found  it  necessary  to 
be  near  navigable  streams,  and  all  towns  of  any  commercial  importance 
in  the  eastern  part  of  the  State  were  on  rivers  or  sounds. 

Most  common  of  the  many  kinds  of  small  craft  used  on  the  inland 
waterways  were  canoes  and  "periaugers,"  which  seem  to  be  a  North 
Carolina  variation  of  the  popular  "pirogue."  In  A  Voyage  to  Georgia, 
Begun  in  the  year  1J35,  periaugers  are  described  as :  ". . .  long  flat  bot- 
tom'd  Boats,  carrying  from  20  to  35  tons.  They  have  a  kind  of  a  Fore- 
castle and  a  cabbin,  but  the  rest  open,  and  no  deck.  They  have  two  masts, 
which  they  can  strike,  and  sails  like  Schooners." 

Nearly  all  early  household  inventories  included  one  or  more  canoes. 
Brickell,  in  1735,  wrote  that  there  were  some  canoes  so  large  that  they 
"will  carry  two  or  three  Horses  over  these  large  Rivers,  and  others  so 
small  that  they  will  carry  only  two  or  three  men." 

Among  the  pleasure  boats,  which  were  also  necessary  craft  when  there 
were  few  roads  from  plantation  to  town,  is  that  described  by  Janet 
Schaw,  who  visited  her  brother's  Tidewater  plantation  just  before  the 
Revolution.  Miss  Schaw  made  the  journey  from  Schawfield  plantation 
down  the  Cape  Fear  River  to  Wilmington  in  "a  very  fine  boat  with  an 
awning  to  prevent  the  heat,  and  six  stout  Negroes  in  neat  uniforms  to 
row  her  down." 

Rafts  or  "flats"  were  in  common  use  on  the  rivers  to  transport  tobacco, 
tar,  pitch,  and  turpentine.  An  Englishman,  J.  F.  D.  Smyth,  who  made  a 
trip  to  North  Carolina  about  1770,  notes  at  Halifax  on  the  Roanoke 

64 


MODES    OF    TRAVEL  65 

River  that  "sloops,  schooners,  and  flats,  or  lighters  of  great  burden,  come 
up  to  this  town." 

The  Intracoastal  Waterway,  following  a  continuous  series  of  rivers, 
sounds,  and  canals  lying  within  the  Atlantic  coast,  had  its  beginning  in 
1763  when  George  Washington  made  a  survey  of  the  Dismal  Swamp 
Canal  for  the  State  of  Virginia.  Commercial  transportation  in  small 
crafts  is  steadily  increasing  in  this  waterway.  It  is  used  also  by  yachts- 
men bound  for  Florida  and  by  sportsmen  who  visit  the  hunting  and 
fishing  grounds  that  lie  along  the  coast. 

Of  the  principal  rivers  of  the  State,  the  Meherrin  is  navigable 
from  its  mouth  on  the  Chowan  River  to  Murfreesboro;  the  Chowan, 
between  Albemarle  Sound  and  the  confluence  of  Nottoway  and  Black- 
water  Rivers;  the  Roanoke,  between  the  mouth  and  Hamilton;  the 
Pamlico  and  Tar,  from  the  mouth  to  Washington  (2.6-foot  channel  at 
Greenville) ;  the  Neuse  to  a  point  23  miles  above  New  Bern.  Since  the 
time  of  the  early  settlements  the  Cape  Fear  River  was  navigable  to 
Fayetteville,  a  distance  of  115  miles  above  Wilmington.  In  1923  naviga- 
tion to  Fayetteville  was  abandoned,  but  in  1936  the  channel  was  deep- 
ened and  new  locks  were  constructed  so  that  the  river  affords  a  channel 
27  feet  over  the  ocean  bar,  30  feet  deep  to  Wilmington,  19  feet  deep  to 
a  point  9  miles  above  Wilmington,  and  9  feet  to  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion at  Fayetteville. 

From  Colonial  times  Wilmington  was  the  principal  port,  and  since  the 
channel  was  deepened  the  city  has  become  an  important  point  for  dis- 
tribution of  gasoline  and  other  petroleum  products  and  for  a  large 
export  trade.  Construction  of  great  piers  and  deepening  of  the  channel 
at  Morehead  City  in  1935-37  have  made  the  port  available  to  large  ships 
that  may  arrive,  dock,  and  depart  under  their  own  power.  Eliz- 
abeth City  enjoys  a  thriving  trade  on  the  inner  course  of  the  Intra- 
coastal Waterway  and  along  the  Pasquotank  River  from  Albemarle 
Sound. 

In  the  early  days  travel  by  land  was  more  difficult  than  by  water. 
Efforts  at  road  building  in  eastern  Carolina  were  hampered  by  the 
numerous  creeks,  rivers,  and  swamps.  Yet  many  roads  were  made  in 
the  1 8th  century  in  both  the  Coastal  Plain  and  the  Piedmont.  From 
north  to  south  a  highway  ran  through  Edenton,  Bath,  New  Bern,  Wil- 
mington, and  Brunswick.  Brickell  says  that  the  road  "from  Edentown 
to  Virginia"  was  "broad  and  convenient,  for  all  sorts  of  Carriages,  such 
as  Coaches,  Chaises,  Waggons  and  Carts,  and  especially  for  Horsemen." 
The  Northeast  Branch  of  the  Cape  Fear  was  crossed  by  a  bridge  which, 
according  to  Janet  Schaw,  "opens  at  the  middle  to  both  sides  and  rises 
by  pullies,  so  as  to  suffer  Ships  to  pass  under  it."  This  was  Herons 
Bridge,  one  of  the  few  drawbridges  in  the  Colonies.  A  later  18th-century 


DO  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

road  ran  north  and  south  from  Halifax  to  Tarboro  and  another  went  to 
Cross  Creek  (now  Fayetteville) . 

The  constant  stream  of  families  moving  from  Pennsylvania  and 
Maryland  to  North  Carolina  followed  the  "upper  road"  through  the 
mountains  or  the  "lower  road"  across  the  Coastal  Plain.  They  traveled 
in  large  parties,  camping  out  at  night,  and  buying  food  from  farmers 
along  the  way.  Some  of  the  men  of  the  party,  on  horseback  or  on 
foot,  preceded  the  wagons  to  clear  the  way,  others  followed  as  rear 
guard. 

A  party  of  Moravians  moving  in  1753  from  Bethlehem,  Pennsylvania, 
to  take  up  their  lands  in  Piedmont  North  Carolina,  followed  the  diffi- 
cult upper  road  along  the  Blue  Ridge.  In  their  diary  the  Moravians 
recorded  that  "the  road  sloped  so  that  we  could  hardly  keep  the  wagon 
from  slipping  over  the  edge  of  the  mountain  and  we  had  to  use  the 
tackle  frequently."  In  1759  another  party  of  Moravians  came  down  by 
the  lower  road,  "bad  in  many  places  it  is  true,  but  far  easier  to  travel." 

The  few  taverns  in  18th-century  North  Carolina  generally  were  de- 
scribed by  travelers  as  "wretched,"  yet  the  State  made  an  effort  to 
regulate  them.  Before  1741  tavern  keepers  had  to  obtain  licenses  from 
the  Governor,  and  after  that  from  the  county  court.  The  law  specified 
that  the  tavern  keeper  set  up  plain  signs  and  provide  "good  and  suffi- 
cient Houses,  Lodging,  and  entertainment  for  Travellers,  their  servants 
and  Horses." 

However,  there  were  a  few  excellent  taverns  and  coffee  houses.  One 
at  Bute  Courthouse  was  run  by  Jethro  Sumner,  a  Revolutionary  soldier. 
Another,  the  Horniblow  Tavern  of  Edenton,  was  a  gathering  place  for 
lawyers,  and  the  center  of  community  discussions  of  law,  politics,  and 
literature.  At  Salem  was  a  good  tavern,  built  by  the  Moravians  as  early 
as  1772,  and  operated  by  the  church.  The  landlord  was  instructed  to 
treat  his  guests  with  "kindness  and  cordiality,  but  not  to  encourage 
them  to  be  intemperate,"  and  to  behave  so  that  the  guests  could  tell 
"that  we  are  an  honest  and  a  Christian  people,  such  as  they  have  never 
before  found  in  a  tavern." 

At  the  end  of  the  18th  century,  horseback  was  still  the  best  means  of 
travel.  A  man  with  a  good  horse  could  average  35  miles  a  day,  pass- 
ing  through  rivers,  swamps,  and  marshes  that  would  have  halted 
any  vehicle.  Four-wheeled  wagons  drawn  by  two  or  four  horses  carried 
the  produce  of  planters  and  the  wares  of  merchants.  The  Moravians  in 
the  Piedmont  section,  who  carried  on  an  extensive  trade  with  Beth- 
lehem, Pennsylvania,  and  with  the  coast  towns  of  the  Carolinas,  re- 
quired from  25  to  30  days  to  make  the  return  trip  by  wagon  from  Charles 
Town  to  Salem,  averaging  about  18  miles  a  day. 

By  1789  a  stagecoach  was  running  between  Washington  and  Edenton, 


MODES     OF     TRAVEL  67 

and  between  Edenton  and  Suffolk,  Virginia.  In  the  early  19th 
century  there  were  regular  lines  connecting  all  important  towns,  and 
over  these  the  coaches  usually  ran  three  times  a  week.  A  letter  to  Gov- 
ernor Morehead,  in  1849,  complains  that  the  cost  of  a  journey  from 
Charlotte  to  Goldsboro,  210  miles,  is  $23,  while  in  Georgia  or  South 
Carolina  the  same  distance  could  be  covered  for  $5.  As  early  as  1825  a 
line  of  United  States  mail  coaches  with  two  stages  a  week  started  at 
Fredericksburg,  Virginia,  passed  through  North  Carolina  by  way  of 
Greensboro,  Salisbury,  and  Charlotte  and  went  on  to  Milledgeville, 
Georgia,  traversing  586  miles  in  11  days. 

Toll  roads,  operated  by  private  companies,  had  been  in  use  for  many 
years  when  North  Carolina  began  in  the  1850's  to  build  plank  roads. 
Following  an  experiment  in  Canada  in  1834,  a  veritable  fever  for  build- 
ing plank  roads  developed  in  the  United  States.  In  North  Carolina  the 
roads  were  mostly  constructed  by  private  companies  and  operated  as 
toll  roads.  The  principal  plank  roads  radiated  from  Fayetteville,  a  com- 
mercial point  on  the  Cape  Fear  River,  and  longest  and  most  important 
of  these  was  the  road  from  Fayetteville  via  Salem  to  Bethania,  a  distance 
of  129  miles.  Fifteen  tollhouses  on  this  road  collected  tolls  as  follows: 
l/2$  per  mile  for  man  on  horseback;  1$  for  one-horse  vehicle;  20  for 
two-horse  team;  30  for  three-horse  team;  4^  for  six-horse  team.  In  1852 
there  were  32  plank  roads  in  the  State.  By  the  middle  1850's  the  North 
Carolina  and  Western  North  Carolina  Railroads,  having  penetrated  far 
into  the  Piedmont,  began  to  carry  produce  to  markets,  and  by  i860  the 
plank  roads  had  practically  disappeared. 

Prior  to  1885  public  roads  were  laid  out  and  maintained  by  local 
authorities  in  small  road  districts.  The  roads  were  merely  routes  and 
cannot  be  said  to  have  been  built,  but  only  cleared  of  obstructions.  The 
method  of  upkeep  was  to  require  labor,  generally  six  days  a  year,  of  all 
able-bodied  men,  slaves  as  well  as  freemen.  Any  slave  owner  who 
should  have  as  many  as  three  slaves  to  send  out  for  road  work  was 
excused  from  performing  the  service  himself.  Taxes  were  levied  for 
bridges  only. 

The  first  departure  from  the  old  labor-tax  method  took  place  in  1885, 
but  at  the  opening  of  the  20th  century  the  old  method  of  road  upkeep 
had  been  abandoned  in  only  two  counties  in  the  State.  About  one-fourth 
of  the  counties  had  supplemented  the  labor-tax  method  with  special 
road  taxes  and  improved  methods.  Mecklenburg  was  the  first  county 
to  establish  a  county  road  system,  and  for  many  years  had  the  best 
roads  in  the  State.  They  were  built  by  convict  labor  at  a  cost  of  from 
$2,700  to  $4,000  per  mile,  including  the  care  and  feeding  of  the  con- 
victs. Buncombe  and  Guilford  Counties  were  next  to  follow  with  county 
systems. 


68  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

About  1900  the  good  roads  movement  received  a  great  impetus  from 
the  establishment  of  the  rural  free  delivery  of  mail,  and  the  farmers, 
who  as  a  class  had  opposed  the  movement,  became  converted  by  the 
prospect  of  a  daily  visit  from  the  mail  carrier. 

In  October  1901  a  Good  Roads  Train,  one  of  several  operating  in  the 
United  States  that  year,  was  started  by  the  Southern  Railway  Company 
from  Alexandria,  Virginia.  Stops  were  made  at  Winston-Salem  and 
Asheville  in  the  fall,  and  at  Raleigh  in  February.  Road  conventions  were 
held  in  each  of  the  towns,  where  Governor  Aycock  and  other  leading 
citizens  addressed  enthusiastic  audiences.  At  a  mammoth  convention  in 
Raleigh  the  crowning  event  was  the  organization  of  the  North  Carolina 
Good  Roads  Association,  which  became  the  focal  point  of  the  movement. 

In  191 1  the  legislature  appointed  a  central  highway  committee  which 
was  to  get  the  counties  to  cooperate  in  routing  a  highway  from  Morehead 
City  through  Raleigh,  Greensboro,  Salisbury,  and  Asheville  to  the  Ten- 
nessee Line.  The  route  followed  the  line  of  a  railroad  built  about  the 
middle  of  the  previous  century.  Today  that  roundabout  course  is  closely 
followed  by  the  excellent  US  70. 

The  importance  of  the  automobile  in  the  story  of  road  building  can 
scarcely  be  overestimated,  as  modern  public  roads  are  primarily  motor 
highways.  In  1913  there  were  10,000  motor  vehicles  in  the  State;  in  1919 
there  were  109,000.  Not  only  was  public  sentiment  for  good  roads 
greatly  increased  by  the  increasing  number  of  automobiles,  but  the 
whole  purpose  of  road  building  was  changed,  and  the  county  as  an 
administrative  unit  was  found  to  be  inadequate.  License  fees  and  gaso- 
line taxes  brought  in  new  sources  of  revenue. 

The  year  1919  stands  out  in  North  Carolina  road  history;  in  that  year 
much  larger  sums  were  appropriated  to  match  increased  Federal  allot- 
ments, and  Frank  Page  was  appointed  chairman  of  the  State  Highway 
Commission.  During  the  ten  years  he  was  in  office  Mr.  Page  served  with 
marked  ability  and  integrity.  The  1919  program  still  adhered  to  the 
county  maintenance  plan,  aided  by  State  and  Federal  funds. 

Beginning  in  1921,  the  State  took  sole  responsibility  for  the  construc- 
tion and  maintenance  of  a  system  of  hard-surfaced  highways  to  connect 
all  county  seats.  The  change  in  public  opinion  that  made  possible  a 
bond  issue  of  $50,000,000  for  this  purpose  was  partly  due  to  the  indus- 
trial development  of  the  World  War  period.  In  eight  years  a  primary 
highway  system  of  7,500  miles  was  built,  with  all  main  routes  con- 
structed of  concrete  or  asphalt.  In  1933  the  State  assumed  full  respon- 
sibility for  maintaining  the  entire  secondary  road  system,  constituting 
about  4,500  miles.  In  1938,  North  Carolina  had  10,762  miles  of  num- 
bered highways  which  constituted  the  State  highway  system,  and  48,216 
miles  of  improved  county  roads.  A  notable  activity  of  the  last  few  years 


MODES     OF     TRAVEL  69 

has  been  the  building  or  improvement  of  numerous  farm-to-market 
roads  with  the  aid  of  Federal  funds. 

Agitation  for  railroads  began  in  1828  when  Dr.  Joseph  Caldwell, 
president  of  the  State  university,  proposed  that  a  line  be  built  from 
Beaufort  and  New  Bern  to  the  Tennessee  Line.  The  State  was  divided 
over  this  proposal,  however,  and  no  such  railroad  was  commenced  for 
20  years.  The  Raleigh  Experimental  Railroad,  a  mile  and  a  half 
long,  was  the  first  to  be  constructed  (1833)  and  was  successfully  used 
to  move  stone  for  rebuilding  the  capitol.  Horse  power  appears  to  have 
been  used. 

Ten  railroads  were  chartered  by  the  general  assembly  of  1833-34,  only 
two  of  which  were  constructed:  the  Wilmington  &  Raleigh  and  the 
Raleigh  &  Gaston,  both  completed  in  1840.  The  Wilmington  &  Raleigh 
was  1 61. 5  miles  long,  and  was  reported  to  be  the  longest  railroad  in  the 
world  at  the  time.  Rails  were  of  heart  pine  faced  with  iron  strips.  The 
road  cost  nearly  two  million  dollars  and  was  built  by  private  enterprise. 

As  a  result  of  State  aid  in  the  construction  of  the  more  important 
routes,  the  central  part  of  North  Carolina  is  now  well  provided  with 
railroad  facilities,  both  for  north  and  south  trunk  lines  and  short  haul 
lines.  North  Carolina  commerce  is  not  handled  through  home  ports  to 
any  considerable  extent;  hence,  there  is  no  east-west  railroad  based  upon 
the  existence  of  an  adequate  port,  and  the  State  suffers  from  high  freight 
rates  to  and  from  the  East  and  Middle  West.  North  Carolina  is  served 
(1939)  by  4  trunk  lines  and  some  30  independent  lines  with  a  total 
trackage  of  4,800  miles. 

Asheville  had  the  first  electric  street  railway  in  North  Carolina,  its 
initial  line  being  built  in  1889.  Similar  systems  were  established  soon 
after  in  the  other  large  cities.  In  1934  streetcars  began  giving  way  to 
buses  throughout  the  State;  since  then  a  few  trackless  trolleys  have  been 
installed. 

Bus  transportation  had  begun  in  1922,  when  the  Carolina  Motor  Com- 
pany operated  without  a  charter  between  Raleigh  and  Durham.  The 
first  chartered  bus  company  was  the  Highway  Motor  Transit  Company 
of  Goldsboro,  organized  in  1925,  operating  between  Raleigh  and  Wil- 
mington. In  1939,  24  bus  companies  were  serving  the  State,  under  the 
supervision  of  the  State  Utilities  Commission.  There  are  approximately 
5,000  miles  of  bus  lines  in  the  State. 

North  Carolina  is  crossed  by  two  regular  mail  and  passenger  air 
routes,  operated  by  Eastern  Air  Lines.  On  the  New  York  to  Miami 
route,  Raleigh  is  the  only  stop  between  Washington  and  Charleston. 
The  New  York  to  New  Orleans  route  has  airports  at  Greensboro  and 
Charlotte.  There  are  20  airports  in  the  State;  13  are  municipal, 
6   commercial,   and    1    military.   Six   airports — Charlotte,    Greensboro, 


yo  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

Pope  Field  (Fort  Bragg),  Raleigh,  Rocky  Mount,  and  Winston-Salem 
— are  equipped  for  night  flying,  as  are  the  three  intermediate  landing 
fields  at  Lexington,  Maxton,  and  Warrenton.  In  addition  there  are  five 
auxiliary  landing  fields.  Radio  range  beacons  are  operated  at  Raleigh 
and  Greensboro.  Seaplane  anchorages  are  at  Edenton  and  Ocracoke. 

In  1939  the  United  States  Coast  Guard  had  under  construction  at 
Elizabeth  City  an  air  base  with  a  mile  of  water  frontage  on  Pasquo- 
tank River.  This  will  be  the  midway  Coast  Guard  air  base  between 
Cape  May,  New  Jersey,  and  Charleston,  South  Carolina. 


INDUSTRY       AND       LABOR 


Industry 


IN  NORTH  CAROLINA,  as  elsewhere  in  the  South,  there  was 
comparatively  little  interest  in  manufacturing  before  the  War  be- 
tween the  States.  Capital  and  managerial  skill  were  devoted  chiefly 
to  large-scale  agriculture.  The  plantation  economy,  with  its  base  in 
slavery,  was  not  conducive  to  the  growth  of  industrial  enterprise. 

The  first  cotton  mill  not  only  in  the  State  but  in  the  South,  and  also 
the  first  mill  south  of  the  Potomac  operated  by  water  power,  was  estab- 
lished by  Michael  Schenck  near  Lincolnton  in  1813.  The  second  mill, 
which  today  is  the  oldest  plant  in  the  State,  was  erected  by  Joel  Battle 
in  1817  at  the  Falls  of  the  Tar  River  on  the  edge  of  what  is  now  the 
city  of  Rocky  Mount.  In  1830  Dinny  Humphries  built  in  Greensboro 
the  first  mill  in  the  South  to  be  operated  by  steam,  and  during  the  30's 
E.  M.  Holt  established  in  Alamance  County  the  first  complete  southern 
cotton  mill,  covering  the  entire  line  of  processing  from  raw  cotton  to 
fabrics.  During  the  1840's  mills  were  organized  at  Concord,  Salisbury, 
Mocksville,  and  Winston-Salem.  However,  by  i860  there  were  actually 
fewer  spindles  in  operation  in  the  State  than  there  had  been  in  1840, 
although  the  South  as  a  whole  had  made  some  progress. 

On  the  eve  of  the  war,  North  Carolina  had  39  small  cotton  mills  em- 
ploying 1,764  wage  earners.  Of  the  seven  woolen  mills  in  the  State,  only 
two — those  at  Rock  Island  and  Salem — were  of  any  considerable  size. 
The  naval-stores  industry,  however,  was  of  unusual  importance.  More 
than  1,000  small  establishments  accounted  for  70  percent  of  the  national 
output  of  crude  turpentine,  and  nearly  500  were  making  the  distilled 
product.  Numerous  small  enterprises,  gristmills,  sawmills,  cooperage 
firms,  and  others,  supplied  strictly  local  markets.  By  i860  only  a  few 
more  than  14,000  wage  earners  were  employed  in  all  manufacturing  and 
mechanical  occupations. 

Four  years  of  war  shattered  the  old  economy  of  the  South.  North 
Carolina  was  drained  of  its  able-bodied  white  men,  and  production  was 
in  the  hands  of  old  men,  women,  children,  and  Negroes.  Agriculture 

71 


72  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

declined;  the  market  for  cotton  was  inaccessible.  The  vital  imports 
upon  which  the  State  had  formerly  relied  were  excluded  by  the  blockade. 
There  was  neither  the  time  nor  the  capital  to  add  to  the  rudimentary 
industrial  structure  already  in  existence. 

At  the  close  of  the  war,  the  fundamental  and  immediate  economic 
problem  was  the  adjustment  of  agriculture  to  the  changed  status  of  the 
Negro.  The  revival  of  industry  was  less  rapid  than  that  of  agriculture, 
but  between  1870  and  1880  there  was  a  slow  upward  movement  in 
manufacturing.  Invested  capital  increased  from  more  than  $8,000,000  to 
slightly  more  than  $13,000,000;  the  average  number  of  wage  earners 
increased  from  13,500  to  more  than  18,000. 

Beginning  about  1880,  an  unprecedented  interest  in  manufacturing 
began  to  develop.  Local  newspapers  devoted  increasing  space  to  the 
subject,  frequently  issuing  special  industrial  editions,  and  the  State  gov- 
ernment was  manifesting  its  interest.  The  drive  for  manufactures  took 
on  something  of  the  aspect  of  a  crusade.  This  is  reflected  in  the  figures 
on  industrial  growth.  In  cotton  textiles  alone  the  number  of  wage 
earners  increased  from  about  3,000  in  1880  to  more  than  30,000  in  1900, 
and  the  invested  capital  from  $2,500,000  to  more  than  $33,000,000.  North 
Carolina  is  now  second  only  to  Massachusetts  in  the  production 
of  cotton  textiles.  In  1935  the  311  mills  in  operation  employed 
93,964  workers,  and  the  total  output  from  these  mills  was  valued  at 

$233736,776. 

In  industry  as  a  whole,  capital  increased  from  $13,000,000  in  1880  to 
$76,000,000  in  1900,  while  wage  earners  increased  in  number  from  18,000 
to  70,000.  In  1935  the  United  States  census  of  manufactures  reported  a 
total  of  2,632  establishments,  employing  229,534  persons,  who  received 
$152,037,000  in  wages,  and  the  value  of  finished  products  was 
$1,111,978,000. 

Industrial  Growth  and  Diversification.  While  population  in  North 
Carolina  increased  more  than  100  percent  between  1880  and  1930,  the 
number  of  wage  earners  employed  in  manufacturing  increased  more 
than  1,000  percent.  About  66  percent  of  all  wage  earners  in  manufac- 
turing in  1935  were  employed  in  four  industries:  tobacco,  furniture, 
lumber,  and  the  various  textile  divisions  (cotton,  knitgoods,  silk,  rayon, 
wool,  dyeing,  and  finishing) . 

The  cotton-textile  industry  was  the  spearhead  of  industrial  advance  in 
the  State.  Its  growth,  with  minor  interruptions,  was  steady  between  1880 
and  1930.  Like  the  tobacco  and  furniture  industries,  cotton  manufactur- 
ing is  concentrated  in  the  Piedmont.  In  the  beginning,  only  the  coarser 
yarns  were  spun,  but  numerous  mills  today  spin  medium  and  fine  yarns. 

The  knitgoods  industry  in  North  Carolina  had  little  importance  until 
after  the  beginning  of  the  20th  century.  In  1935  there  were  employed, 


INDUSTRYANDLABOR  73 

principally  in  the  hosiery  mills,  some  32,637  wage  earners.  Underwear  is 
also  manufactured. 

The  other  textile  industries,  wool  and  silk,  are  of  relatively  minor 
importance  in  North  Carolina.  Together  they  employ  only  a  few  thou- 
sand wage  earners.  The  expansion  of  the  rayon  industry,  however, 
seems  likely.  The  27  manufacturing  plants  existing  in  1935  employed 
11,389  persons,  and  their  total  production  for  that  year  was  valued  at 
$33,205,761.  More  than  7,000  wage  earners  were  employed  in  1935  in 
dyeing  and  finishing  cotton,  rayon,  and  silk. 

North  Carolina  did  not  participate  largely  in  either  the  culture  or  the 
manufacture  of  tobacco  before  the  War  between  the  States.  The  foun- 
dation of  an  extensive  tobacco  culture  was  laid  by  the  notable  discovery 
in  Caswell  County  in  1852  that  a  sweeter  and  brighter  leaf  could  be 
raised  in  porous  and  sandy  soil.  The  new  "bright  tobacco"  proved  admir- 
ably adapted  for  a  new  tobacco  product,  the  cigarette,  as  well  as  for  other 
manufactured  forms  of  the  "weed." 

Durham  was  a  creation  of  the  tobacco  industry.  By  1884  there  were 
eight  smoking-tobacco  factories  in  the  town,  in  addition  to  one  cigar 
factory  and  one  plug-tobacco  factory.  It  was  here  that  Washington  Duke 
and  his  sons  forged  to  a  position  of  leadership  in  the  industry.  Their 
triumph  was  assured  when,  on  April  30,  1884,  they  installed  the  Bonsack 
cigarette  machine,  with  a  capacity  of  120,000  cigarettes  per  ten-hour  day. 

The  centers  of  tobacco  manufacture  in  North  Carolina  are  Durham, 
Winston-Salem,  and  Reidsville.  The  cigarette  branch  of  the  industry 
has  risen  steadily  in  importance;  the  total  value  of  the  product  in  1935 
amounted  to  $463,280,743. 

The  first  furniture  factory  in  North  Carolina,  and  probably  in  the 
South,  was  established  at  Mebane  in  1881.  By  1900  more  than  1,700 
wage  earners  were  employed  in  the  44  establishments  reporting  to  the 
census  of  manufactures.  High  Point  is  today  one  of  the  major  furniture 
centers  of  the  country;  the  industry  has  also  developed  at  Thomasville, 
Hickory,  Statesville,  Morganton,  Mebane,  and  other  points  in  the  State. 
In  1935  there  were  118  establishments  in  the  State,  and  13,640  wage 
earners  were  employed.  In  1937  North  Carolina  ranked  first  among  the 
States  in  the  production  of  wooden  dining  room  and  bedroom  furniture, 
and  second  in  the  manufacture  of  wooden  kitchen  furniture. 

Although  the  naval-stores  industry  began  to  decline  about  1880,  the 
production  of  lumber  shortly  thereafter  assumed  significant  proportions. 
North  Carolina  pine  first  appeared  in  the  New  York  market  in  1886. 
The  exhaustion  of  the  white  pine  forests  of  the  Great  Lakes  Region  and 
the  construction  of  railroads  in  the  coastal  region  of  the  South  stimulated 
the  growth  of  the  southern  lumber  industry.  The  industry  in  the  State 
reached  its  peak  about  1909.  In  that  year,  and  again  in  1914,  North 


74  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

Carolina  ranked  fourth  among  the  States  in  lumber  production.  In 
1935,  according  to  the  census  of  manufacturers,  the  principal  lumber 
industries  in  the  State — lumber  and  timber  products,  planing-mill 
products,  wooden  boxes,  and  cooperage — had  a  total  output  valued  at 
$28,400,927. 

Although  these  four  industries  are  predominant,  a  number  of  other 
manufacturing  activities  round  out  the  industrial  structure  in  North 
Carolina.  Among  these  activities  are  mineral  products,  stone  cutting, 
and  the  making  of  fertilizer,  clay  products,  leather,  work  clothing,  cot- 
tonseed products,  etc.  In  addition  there  are  numerous  minor  industries, 
such  as  printing  and  baking,  which  cater  almost  exclusively  to  local 
markets. 

Capital  and  Labor  Supply.  It  is  not  known  to  what  extent  the  growth 
of  industry  in  North  Carolina  has  depended  upon  outside  capital.  It 
seems  likely,  however,  that  this  dependence  has  been  relatively  small. 
Lacy  writes  that  he  has  been  able  to  find  no  evidence  of  any  cotton  mill 
established  in  North  Carolina  by  northern  capital  before  1895,  and 
records  of  only  a  few  between  1895  and  1900.  In  more  recent  years  out- 
side capital  has  assumed  greater  importance  in  the  textile  industry, 
although  it  has  been  more  important  in  some  other  Southern  States  than 
in  North  Carolina. 

The  tobacco  industry  of  the  State  was  for  the  most  part  financed 
locally.  The  Dukes  and  the  Reynolds  based  the  expansion  of  their  enter- 
prises on  reinvested  earnings,  especially  during  the  formative  period. 
The  furniture  industry  also  was  locally  financed.  Certainly  the  early 
adventurers  in  this  industry  operated  with  their  own  capital  plus  local 
borrowings.  Some  outside  capital  has  gone  into  the  lumber  industry. 

Moreover,  North  Carolina  industry  has  been  manned  almost  wholly 
by  local  workers  and  by  workers  from  the  surrounding  Southern  States. 
From  1880  to  the  present  time  the  farms  have  provided  a  steady  stream 
of  men,  women,  and  children  to  perform  the  tasks  created  by  industry. 
Although  rates  of  remuneration  in  industry  have  been  generally  low, 
hours  of  labor  long,  and  working  and  living  conditions  often  unsatis- 
factory, tens  of  thousands  of  workers  have  preferred  to  leave  a  struggle 
on  the  farm  for  employment  in  the  mill. 

The  lumber  and  furniture  industries  employ  only  men,  but  cotton 
textiles,  hosiery,  and  tobacco  have  used  women  and  children.  In  1929, 
more  than  44  percent  of  the  wage  earners  in  manufacturing  in  the  State 
were  women.  As  late  as  1909,  more  than  27  percent  of  the  wage  earners 
in  the  hosiery  industry  were  under  16  years  of  age;  in  cotton  textiles, 
nearly  19  percent;  in  tobacco,  about  17  percent.  After  1909  the  employ- 
ment of  children  in  manufacturing  declined.  The  child  labor  law  of 
1919  forbade  employment  of  workers  under  14  years  of  age,  and  the 


INDUSTRY     A  XD    LABOR  75 

statute  of  1937  prohibited  the  employment  of  workers  under  16  years 
of  age. 

Industrial  Relations 

The  Pattern.  The  determination  of  wages,  hours,  and  other  condi- 
tions of  employment  in  North  Carolina  has  been  largely  in  the  hands 
of  the  employer.  Except  for  short  periods,  collective  bargaining  between 
workers  and  employers  has  not  vitally  affected  industrial  relations. 
There  has  been  a  large  measure  of  industrial  paternalism,  particularly 
in  the  textile  industry. 

In  the  early  days  there  was  a  social  basis  for  paternalism.  Most  of 
the  textile  mills,  for  instance,  were  locally  owned  and  operated,  and 
workers  were  recruited  from  the  surrounding  countryside.  The  rela- 
tionship between  owner  and  worker  was  a  personal  one.  The  isolated 
position  of  many  of  the  mills  necessitated  the  construction  of  houses  by 
the  company,  and  thus  the  company-owned  mill  village  developed.  The 
mill  owner  "looked  after"  his  workers.  The  worker  had  to  adjust  him- 
self to  a  new  environment  and  to  a  new  discipline.  Paternalism,  more- 
over, was  rooted  in  the  semifeudal  agriculture  that  encircled  the  new 
industry. 

Labor  Organization.  The  first  organized  labor  movement  to  reach 
the  industrial  workers  of  the  State  was  that  of  the  Knights  of  Labor  in 
the  1880's.  Before  this  time  there  had  been  local  unions  of  skilled 
mechanics,  but  the  Knights  of  Labor  influenced  the  factory  workers  at 
the  very  beginning  of  industrial  development  in  the  State. 

The  first  assembly  (the  unit  of  organization)  of  the  Knights  of  Labor 
in  North  Carolina  was  organized  in  Raleigh  on  June  18,  1884.  A  sur- 
prisingly large  number  of  assemblies  were  formed  in  a  very  short  time; 
in  1888,  64  such  bodies  in  the  State  voted  in  a  referendum  held  by  a 
national  organization.  The  assemblies  were  of  the  "mixed"  variety,  that 
is,  they  included  workers  from  various  occupations.  A  few  short-lived 
labor  papers  appeared  in  the  State.  Nationally,  the  organization  reached 
its  greatest  strength  in  1886,  and  thereafter  declined  rapidly.  The  peak 
in  the  South  came  a  year  or  so  later,  but  the  decline  was  equally  pre- 
cipitous. Although  few  tangible  benefits  were  won  by  the  organization 
in  North  Carolina,  many  new  problems  were  discussed,  and  the  idea 
of  labor  solidarity  was  given  some  semblance  of  reality. 

Between  1898  and  1901,  organization  under  the  leadership  of  the 
American  Federation  of  Labor  proceeded  on  a  considerable  scale.  Rising 
prices  lent  impetus  to  the  movement.  By  1901  there  were  at  least  16 
locals  in  the  State.  A  number  of  small  strikes  and  lockouts  resulted  but 
the  real  test  of  strength  came  in  Alamance  County  in  the  fall  of  1900, 


j6  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

when  the  workers  in  17  or  18  small  mills  walked  out.  The  strike  lasted 
more  than  a  month,  and  its  defeat  broke  the  back  of  the  union  move- 
ment among  the  textile  operatives. 

Although  organization  among  the  factory  workers  had  virtually  dis- 
appeared by  1902,  many  locals  of  skilled  workers  survived.  In  1905  a 
State  Federation  of  Labor  was  formed,  and  thereafter  craft-union  mem- 
bership grew  slowly.  A  union  movement  of  unprecedented  vigor  began 
during  the  World  War.  The  organization  of  skilled  workers  proceeded 
apace,  and  the  factory  operatives  in  tobacco  and  textiles  built  large 
although  short-lived  locals.  The  tobacco  workers  had  their  greatest  suc- 
cess in  Winston-Salem,  where  in  1919  the  union  obtained  a  signed 
agreement  with  the  tobacco  companies.  This  agreement  covered  10,000 
workers.  Locals  were  also  formed  in  Durham  and  Reidsville. 

In  August  1919  an  organizer  for  the  United  Textile  Workers  in  North 
Carolina  claimed  that  30,000  workers  had  joined  the  union  during  the 
previous  few  months.  The  estimate  may  not  have  been  accurate,  but 
the  movement  into  the  union  was  certainly  extensive.  Forty-three  locals 
had  been  chartered  in  the  State  by  that  time.  Two  relatively  successful 
strikes  in  Charlotte  early  in  1919  stimulated  organization  among  the 
cotton-mill  operatives.  A  number  of  other  disputes  followed,  generally 
with  some  gain  for  the  workers  involved.  Stoppages  occurred  in  Con- 
cord, McAdensville,  Mooresville,  Salisbury,  Raleigh,  Gastonia,  and  else- 
where. 

By  1920,  specific  grievances  in  many  cases  had  been  adjusted,  and 
textile-union  membership  began  to  decline  slowly.  During  the  sharp 
depression  beginning  in  the  latter  part  of  1920  and  continuing  through 
1921,  textile  unionism  virtually  disappeared  in  the  State.  The  unsuccess- 
ful strike  against  severe  wage  cuts  in  1921,  involving  9,000  workers  in 
Charlotte,  Huntersville,  Concord,  and  Kannapolis,  marked  the  decline 
of  the  wartime  movement. 

After  1922  a  few  of  the  textile  locals  were  reorganized.  Some  disputes 
occurred.  The  most  important  stoppage  was  occasioned  by  an  unor- 
ganized strike  at  Henderson  in  1927.  In  1929,  when  the  "stretch-out" 
was  added  to  grievances  of  longer  standing,  the  dramatic  disputes  of 
Gastonia  and  Marion  startled  the  Nation.  The  American  Federation  of 
Labor  organizing  campaign  in  the  following  year  resulted  in  a  con- 
siderable growth  of  textile  membership  in  the  State.  These  gains  were 
soon  lost,  however,  partly  because  of  the  depression  and  partly  because 
no  great  effort  was  made  to  hold  them. 

The  business  collapse  beginning  in  1929  brought  a  decisive  drop  in 
labor  standards.  One  consequence  was  a  remarkable  series  of  more  or 
less  spontaneous  strikes  in  furniture,  hosiery,  and  cotton  textiles  in  the 
summer  of  1932.  The  chief  struggle  centered  at  High  Point,  where  5,000 


INDUSTRY     AND    LABOR  J  J 

hosiery  workers  in  24  plants  walked  out.  Cotton-mill  workers  in  Rock- 
ingham, High  Point,  and  Thomasville,  silk  operatives  in  High  Point, 
and  furniture  workers  in  Thomasville  were  involved.  There  were 
minor  disputes  at  Winston-Salem,  Roxboro,  and  Spindale.  Some  of  the 
settlements,  especially  in  hosiery,  represented  partial  victories  for  the 
workers. 

The  passage  of  the  National  Industrial  Recovery  Act,  with  its  recog- 
nition of  the  right  of  collective  bargaining,  stimulated  another  wave 
of  union  organization.  Something  of  the  strength  of  the  movement  can 
be  gaged  from  the  fact  that  between  60,000  and  70,000  textile  workers 
went  out  in  the  unsuccessful  general  strike  in  the  fall  of  1934.  Since  that 
time,  although  union  membership  has  dropped  off  in  some  places,  union 
organization  has  been  maintained  or  strengthened  in  other  places. 
Among  the  factory  workers,  union  strength  is  greatest  in  cotton,  hosiery, 
and  tobacco. 

Labor  Legislation.  Labor  legislation  made  little  headway  in  North 
Carolina  until  1937,  when  several  laws  of  an  advanced  type  were  en- 
acted by  the  general  assembly.  Public  opposition  to  the  employment  of 
children  in  industry  had  begun  to  emerge  in  the  1890's,  and  a  number 
of  child  labor  laws  were  passed  between  1903  and  1931.  All  of  these 
set  the  age  limit  too  low — 12  years  in  1903,  increased  to  14  years  in  1919 
— and  the  earlier  laws  lacked  provisions  for  enforcement.  The  law  that 
went  into  effect  on  July  1,  1937,  is  regarded  as  a  model  measure  of  its 
kind.  The  employment  of  children  in  all  manufacturing  establishments, 
and  in  50  occupations  specifically  defined  as  dangerous,  is  prohibited. 
Examination  and  certification  of  minors  under  18  are  required  before 
employment,  and  they  are  excluded  from  a  smaller  number  of  excep- 
tionally hazardous  occupations.  Children  between  14  and  16  may  work 
during  school  vacations  not  more  than  40  hours  a  week  or  8  hours  a  day 
in  approved  occupations,  and  they  are  allowed  part-time  employment 
during  school  sessions  provided  that  school  and  work  hours  combined 
do  not  exceed  8  hours  a  day. 

Until  1937,  North  Carolina  had  no  maximum-hours  law  for  men, 
and  the  11 -hour  law  for  women  permitted  a  longer  legal  working  day 
for  women  than  in  any  other  State.  The  law  of  1937  provides  a  maxi- 
mum 9-hour  day  and  a  48-hour  week  for  women,  with  a  10-hour  day  and 
a  55-hour  week  for  men.  Despite  exemptions  written  into  the  original 
bill,  the  law  affects  about  200,000  workers  in  the  State  and  represents 
a  sharp  reduction  in  the  maximum  hours  of  labor  permitted. 

A  workmen's  compensation  law,  administered  by  the  State  indus- 
trial commission,  was  passed  in  1929;  and  at  a  special  session  held  in 
December  1936  the  general  assembly  enacted  an  unemployment  com- 
pensation law,  providing  for  the  setting  up  of  a  fund,  a  commission  of 


78  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

three  members  (including  the  commissioner  of  labor),  and  regulations 
governing  benefits,  contributions,  and  machinery  for  operating  the  law. 
The  rate  for  1938  and  thereafter  was  set  at  2.7  percent  of  wages  paid. 
Benefits  are  payable  through  the  State  employment  office,  and  are  fixed 
at  not  more  than  $15  or  less  than  $5  a  week. 

The  same  session  of  the  general  assembly  enacted  a  law  accepting 
the  provisions  of  the  Federal  Social  Security  Act  and  creating  a  division 
of  public  assistance  in  the  State  Board  of  Charities  and  Public  Welfare. 

A  bureau  of  labor  was  established  in  the  State  government  as  early  as 
1887.  Its  functions  were  gradually  enlarged  until,  in  1931,  a  comprehen- 
sive reorganization  resulted  in  the  present  department  of  labor. 


PUBLIC       EDUCATION 


ON  THE  night  of  April  4,  1912,  a  large  audience  had  gathered 
in  Birmingham,  Alabama,  to  hear  Charles  B.  Aycock,  former 
Governor  of  North  Carolina  and  widely  known  as  the  'educa- 
tional Governor."  The  subject  of  Aycock's  speech  was  "Universal  Edu- 
cation." After  he  had  talked  for  a  few  minutes,  amidst  enthusi- 
astic applause,  Aycock  spoke  the  words:  "I  always  talked  about 
education — ."  Here  he  stopped,  threw  up  his  hands,  reeled  backward, 
and  fell  dead. 

This  dramatic  event  was  the  climax  of  a  long  and  fruitful  effort  on 
behalf  of  public  schools.  In  the  ten  years  following  Aycock's  term  as 
Governor,  public  school  expenditures  and  property  values  in  North 
Carolina  increased  threefold,  the  average  salary  of  teachers  was  increased 
50  percent,  3,500  more  teachers  were  employed,  and  3,000  additional 
schools  were  opened  for  use. 

Much  of  the  credit  for  this  development  belongs  to  Aycock.  But  he 
had  in  his  time  the  support  of  Edwin  A.  Alderman,  James  Y.  Joyner, 
Charles  D.  Mclver,  and  other  able  educators;  and  he  had  back  of  him 
more  than  a  hundred  years  of  interest  and  discussion,  as  well  as  more 
than  a  decade  of  actual  operation  of  a  State-wide  system  of  public 
schools  in  the  1850's  and  1860's. 

North  Carolina  wrote  into  its  first  constitution  its  intention  of  having 
a  public  school  system  and  one  or  more  centers  of  higher  learning.  A 
bill  for  the  establishment  of  free  schools  was  introduced  in  the  Colonial 
assembly  as  early  as  1749  and  again  in  1752,  but  was  defeated;  and  in 
1754  an  appropriation  of  ^6,000  was  made  for  building  and  endowing  a 
school,  though  this  money  was  diverted  to  other  uses. 

Milestones  in  the  State's  educational  progress  were  Archibald  D. 
Murphey's  report  to  the  legislature  in  1817;  the  establishment  of  the 
"Literary  Fund"  in  1825;  the  passage  of  a  public  school  law  in  1839; 
the  work  of  Calvin  H.  Wiley,  first  State  Superintendent  of  Schools 
(1853-65);  the  State-wide  canvass  by  Charles  D.  Mclver  and  Edwin  A. 
Alderman  as  institute  conductors  in  1 890-1903;  and  the  gubernatorial 
campaign  of  Charles  B.  Aycock  in  1900. 

79 


00  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

{For  some  account  of  the  early  development  of  educational  activities 
and  interests  in  North  Carolina,  see  history  and  religion.) 

Many  private  academies  had  been  established  in  the  State  by  the 
middle  of  the  19th  century.  Even  in  the  latter  part  of  the  century  it  was 
commonly  believed  that  the  constitutional  provision  for  schools  could 
best  be  fulfilled  by  subsidizing  the  academies.  This  idea  slowly  gave 
way  to  the  belief  in  publicly  supported  schools  for  all  the  people.  Steady 
progress  in  the  20th  century,  as  evidenced  by  increased  expenditures, 
better  trained  teachers,  longer  school  terms,  rural  consolidation,  and 
other  improvements,  continued  until  the  economic  depression  of  the 
early  1930's. 

State  appropriations  for  the  public  schools  in  North  Carolina  were 
not  reduced  between  1931  and  1933,  despite  the  fact  that  collections  of 
State  revenue  during  this  period  fell  $22,000,000  below  the  budget  esti- 
mates and  county,  city,  and  town  revenue  collections  decreased  in  al- 
most the  same  proportion.  The  1931  general  assembly,  anticipating  some 
reduction  in  revenue,  enacted  a  special  law  which  prevented  the  Gov- 
ernor, as  director  of  the  budget,  from  making  any  reduction  in  the 
amount  of  money  appropriated  for  the  public  schools.  During  this 
period  other  State  appropriations  were  reduced  several  millions  of  dol- 
lars by  budgetary  control,  but  State  school  funds  were  not  reduced. 

By  January  1933,  however,  it  became  apparent  that,  though  State  aid 
for  the  schools  should  continue  undiminished  or  even  be  increased, 
many  schools  would  be  forced  to  close  as  a  result  of  the  inability  of  coun- 
ties, cities,  and  towns  to  collect  the  school  taxes  levied  on  property.  The 
general  assembly  therefore  enacted  a  law  providing  a  State-wide  eight- 
months  school  term  as  the  minimum  for  rural  as  well  as  city  schools, 
and  decreed  that  this  term  should  be  entirely  supported  from  State 
revenues  derived  solely  from  indirect  taxes.  It  then  appropriated  the 
amount  needed  to  operate  all  the  schools  for  the  ensuing  two  years, 
thereby  removing  all  taxes  on  property  for  school  operating  costs.  The 
administrative  units  had  to  continue  to  provide  for  debt  service,  to  pro- 
vide the  school  buildings  and  equip  them.  Under  the  law,  any  unit  that 
so  desired  could,  by  a  vote  of  the  people,  levy  supplementary  school 
taxes  on  property  to  provide  a  ninth  month,  employ  additional  teachers, 
or  supplement  the  State  salary  schedule.  In  order  to  provide  the  appropri- 
ation of  $16,000,000  a  year  for  the  maintenance  of  the  eight-months 
school  term,  other  State  appropriations  were  drastically  cut.  The  prop- 
erty tax  load  of  the  various  subdivisions  was  reduced  to  the  extent  of 
about  $20,000,000  a  year. 

North  Carolina  is  one  of  only  two  States  with  a  State-supported  and 
State-administered  uniform  school  system,  the  other  being  the  State 
of  Delaware.  Unusual  economies  in  the  cost  of  administration  and 


PUBLIC     EDUCATION 


operation  have  been  brought  about  without  any  material  sacrifice  in 
teaching  service.  There  has  been  a  steady  increase  in  the  training  and 
certification  of  teachers. 

The  total  annual  expenditure  in  North  Carolina  for  public  schools 
amounts  to  more  than  $30,000,000.  Most  of  the  school  buildings  in  the 
State  are  modern  and  of  approved  design  and  are  valued  at  approxi- 
mately $110,000,000.  More  than  $12,000,000  worth  of  new  school  facili- 
ties were  erected  (1937-39). 

There  are  more  than  24,000  teachers  in  the  State  school  system,  whose 
salaries  aggregate  more  than  $20,000,000  a  year.  Some  73  percent  of  the 
more  than  17,000  white  teachers  and  43  percent  of  the  7,000  or  more 
Negro  teachers  are  college  graduates  and  hold  Grade  A  certificates. 
In  1922  only  17  percent  of  the  white  teachers  and  3  percent  of  the 
Negro  teachers  were  college  graduates.  The  salaries  of  teachers  in  the 
North  Carolina  public  schools  are  based  on  their  certification— that  is, 
the  amount  of  college  training — plus  the  number  of  years  of  teaching 
experience,  up  to  eight  years. 

North  Carolina  transports  more  children  to  and  from  school  every 
day  than  any  other  State  in  the  United  States.  For  160  days  of  each 
year,  a  fleet  of  4,200  buses  transports  306,000  school  children  at  a  cost 
of  $7.42  per  child  per  year — the  lowest  net  cost  in  the  Nation.  These 
4,200  school  buses  travel  an  average  of  150,000  miles  a  day  over  some 
35,000  miles  of  State  and  county  highways. 

Some  one-room  schoolhouses  are  still  left  in  the  State,  especially  in 
the  mountains,  where  consolidation  is  difficult  because  of  geographical 
conditions  as  well  as  bad  weather  during  the  winter  months.  Consoli- 
dation has  been  completed  to  a  high  degree  in  all  the  counties  where  it  is 
feasible  and  economical.  Vocational  education  is  stressed  in  the  con- 
solidated schools.  Home  economics  and  agriculture  courses  are  offered 
in  most  of  the  rural  high  schools,  virtually  all  of  which  are  consolidated 
schools. 

Approximately  830,000  children  are  (1939)  enrolled  in  the  public 
school  system  of  which  665,000  are  in  the  elementary  grades  and  165,000 
in  the  high  schools.  The  largest  school  for  Indian  children  in  North 
Carolina  is  at  Cherokee,  where  289  boarding  and  day  students  are  en- 
rolled. More  than  200  Indian  children  attend  day  schools  at  Big  Cove, 
Birdtown,  Snowbird,  and  Soco. 

There  are  918  high  schools  in  North  Carolina,  of  which  733  are  for 
white  children  and  185  for  Negroes.  Approximately  135,000  are  enrolled 
in  the  high  schools  for  white  children  and  about  30,000  in  high  schools 
for  Negroes.  Marked  progress  has  been  made  in  the  schools  for  Negroes, 
especially  in  the  high  schools.  Negroes  comprise  29.73  percent  of  the 
total  school  population  in  North  Carolina. 


82  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

Instructional  service,  the  curriculum,  and  certification  of  teachers  are 
under  the  administration  of  the  State  department  of  public  instruction, 
while  all  fiscal  affairs  are  under  the  general  control  of  the  State  school 
commission. 

The  University  of  North  Carolina,  consisting  of  the  university  at 
Chapel  Hill  (3,500),  the  agricultural  and  engineering  college  at  Raleigh 
(2,215)  ana1  tne  woman's  college  at  Greensboro  (1,697),  nas  a  signifi- 
cant place  in  the  cultural  life  of  the  South.  State-supported  institutions 
include  also  East  Carolina  Teachers  College  at  Greenville,  the  Western 
Carolina  Teachers  College  at  Cullowhee,  and  three  other  standard 
normal  schools  for  white  students;  the  North  Carolina  Agricultural  and 
Technical  College  at  Greensboro  and  four  standard  normal  schools  for 
Negroes;  and  the  Cherokee  Indian  Normal  School  at  Pembroke  in 
Robeson  County. 

Besides  Duke  University  at  Durham  (3,364),  outstanding  among 
endowed  institutions,  the  State  has  many  accredited  colleges  and  normal 
schools  that  are  denominational  or  privately  supported.  These  include 
Wake  Forest  College  at  Wake  Forest  (978),  Davidson  College  at  David- 
son (678),  and  Meredith  College  at  Raleigh  (538).  Among  institutions 
for  Negroes  are:  Shaw  University  at  Raleigh,  North  Carolina  College 
for  Negroes  at  Durham,  and  Johnson  C.  Smith  University  at  Charlotte. 

Most  of  Cabarrus  County  has  had  a  system  of  progressive  schools  since 
1930.  The  program  emphasizes  cooperation  rather  than  competition  as 
an  incentive,  and  the  correlation  of  the  subject  material  in  large  units 
of  work. 

Goldsboro,  in  the  center  of  the  Coastal  Plain,  began  a  program  of 
progressive  education  in  1932.  The  Goldsboro  High  School  is  one  of 
three  in  the  State  which  are  accredited  by  the  Southern  Association  of 
Colleges  and  Secondary  Schools  without  requirement  of  the  customary 
units  of  credit  for  college  entrance.  The  other  two  high  schools  similarly 
accredited  are  in  Charlotte  and  Greenville. 

The  school  in  the  village  of  Ellerbe,  Richmond  County,  has  attracted 
national  attention  by  successful  teaching  activities  founded  on  socially 
valuable  experience.  Teachers  College  of  Columbia  University  has  sent 
a  number  of  students  to  observe  the  work  of  this  school.  The  students 
conduct  a  nursery  of  native  plants,  operate  a  print  shop,  make  furniture 
and  other  handicraft  products,  have  catalogued  the  school  library  of 
12,000  volumes,  have  built  playground  equipment  and  a  cabin  used  for 
social  gatherings. 

At  Spring  Hope  in  Nash  County  there  is  a  special-opportunity  school 
for  retarded  pupils.  A  completely  changed  curriculum  has  been  set  up 
for  pupils  whose  needs  are  not  met  in  the  conventional  curriculum  and 
who,  on  reaching  the  age  limit  for  compulsory  attendance,  ordinarily 


PUBLIC    EDUCATION  83 

drop  out  of  school  after  repeated  failure  to  qualify.  The  work  has  been 
notably  successful  in  avoiding  the  possible  evils  attendant  upon  segregat- 
ing children  for  special  work.  The  school  receives  a  subsidy  from  the 
General  Education  Board. 

Adult  education  in  North  Carolina  had  its  beginning  about  1919. 
The  first  State  supervisor  of  adult  education,  Elizabeth  Kelly,  of  Frank- 
lin, won  public  support  for  the  work.  The  methods  of  teaching  reading 
to  adults,  which  were  originated  by  Elizabeth  C.  Morriss  in  the  com- 
munity schools  of  Buncombe  County,  have  been  a  notable  contribution. 
The  John  C.  Campbell  School  at  Brasstown  is  making  an  interesting 
experiment  in  handicraft  and  folk  culture.  Another  distinctive  under- 
taking is  the  Southern  Summer  School  for  Workers,  which  has  held 
11  of  its  12  sessions  in  North  Carolina.  During  a  six-weeks  period, 
students  from  Southern  States  are  given  instruction  in  English  and  in 
the  analysis  of  economic  and  labor  problems  as  related  to  Southern 
industrial  and  rural  workers.  In  1938  and  1939  the  school  was  held  in  the 
Asheville  Normal  and  Teachers  College. 

Since  Aycock's  time,  illiteracy  among  whites  has  been  reduced  from 

19.5  percent  in  1900  to  5.6  percent  in  1930;  and  among  Negroes,  from 

47.6  percent  in  1900  to  20.6  percent  in  1930.  The  ratio  of  elementary 
and  secondary  school  enrollment  to  total  population  between  the  ages 
of  5  and  17  increased  from  63  percent  for  whites  and  59  percent  for 
Negroes  in  1900  to  82  percent  for  whites  and  79  percent  for  Negroes  in 

IQ35- 

More  important  than  any  figures  which  can  be  quoted  from  the 
records  is  the  attitude  of  North  Carolina  toward  its  educational  system. 
The  spirit  of  Aycock,  the  belief  in  the  necessity  of  education  for  every- 
one, is  more  alive  today  than  ever.  But  no  one  now  would  think  of 
merely  advocating  "education."  The  problems  today  involve  the  defini- 
tion of  education:  which  kinds  of  training  are  to  be  given  preference; 
the  problem  of  making  schoolhouses  community  centers;  of  discovering 
latent  talents  and  diversifying  training  so  as  to  develop  these  talents; 
of  making  the  schools  serve  the  needs  of  those  who  do  not  go  to  college 
as  well  as  those  who  do;  and  of  making  education  a  continually  devel- 
oping process  in  the  lives  of  everyone,  young  and  old. 


RELIGION 


THOMAS  HARRIOT,  visiting  in  1585  the  coastal  region  of  what 
is  now  North  Carolina,  found  that  the  Indians  believed  in  the 
immortality  of  the  spirit  and  in  "many  gods,  which  they  call 
Mantoac,  but  of  different  sorts  and  degrees,  one  only  chief  and  great 
God,  which  has  been  from  all  eternity."  The  Indians  of  today,  except 
for  lingering  traces  of  a  tribal  religion  practiced  by  the  medicine  men 
and  women  and  conjuring  societies  of  the  Cherokee,  are  predominantly 
Baptist  and  Methodist. 

The  first  baptism  performed  by  English-speaking  people  in  the  New 
World  took  place  on  Roanoke  Island  on  August  13,  1587.  The  convert 
was  the  Indian  Manteo,  and  his  baptism  was  followed  a  week  later  by 
that  of  the  infant  Virginia  Dare.  These  ceremonies,  however,  contrib- 
uted no  more  toward  the  founding  of  a  permanent  religious  establish- 
ment than  did  Sir  Walter  Raleigh's  efforts  at  colonization  lead  to  a 
permanent  settlement  in  the  region. 

Religion  as  an  organized  force  was  introduced  by  the  Quakers,  and 
their  faith  remained  the  only  communion  of  importance  until  1700. 
William  Edmundson,  a  Quaker  missionary,  preached  in  1672  in  Per- 
quimans County,  to  a  people  with  "little  or  no  religion,  for  they  came 
and  sat  down  in  the  meeting  smoking  their  pipes."  He  was  followed  a 
year  later  by  George  Fox,  the  founder  of  Quakerism,  who  spent  18  days 
"sowing  the  Seed"  in  the  Albemarle  section.  Of  his  work  there  he  said, 
"I  have  made  a  little  entrance  for  truth  upon  the  people."  These  pioneers 
were  followed  by  a  succession  of  itinerant  preachers  who  kept  alive  the 
faith  already  implanted. 

Quakerism  attained  its  greatest  influence  under  John  Archdale, 
Quaker  and  proprietor,  Governor  of  the  Province  (1694-96).  In  1701, 
through  the  exertions  of  his  successor,  Gov.  Henderson  Walker,  the 
sect  was  divested  of  most  of  its  political  power. 

The  first  church  in  the  Colony  was  built  in  1701-2  by  the  Vestry  of 
Chowan  Parish,  afterwards  St.  Paul's  at  Edenton.  In  1715,  a  Colonial 
law  recognized  the  Church  of  England  as  the  established  church  in 
North  Carolina.  Other  Protestant  denominations  developed  slowly;  in- 


RELIGION  85 

deed,  as  late  as  1739  Governor  Johnston  reported  that  there  were  still 
only  two  places  in  the  Colony  where  church  (Anglican)  services  were 
regularly  held.  By  the  end  of  the  Colonial  period,  however,  most  of  the 
Protestant  sects  were  well  represented. 

From  the  beginning  there  was  strong  opposition  to  the  Anglican 
Church  and  the  small  gains  made  in  the  Colony  were  nullified  by  the 
Revolution.  Efforts  were  made  in  1790  to  organize  an  American  Epis- 
copal Church  on  the  foundations  of  the  Anglican,  and  in  1794  the 
Rev.  Charles  Pettigrew  was  elected  bishop,  though  he  was  never  con- 
secrated. Bishop  John  Stark  Ravenscroft,  holding  office  from  1823  to 
1830,  strove  to  build  up  the  church  against  the  opposition  engendered 
by  the  "political  feelings  associated  with  its  very  name."  His  successor, 
Bishop  Levi  Silliman  Ives,  who  served  for  23  years,  manifested  such 
strong  Catholic  leanings  towards  the  close  of  his  tenure  as  to  disrupt 
the  church  membership;  he  joined  the  Roman  Catholic  communion 
before  resigning  his  bishopric. 

To  Bishop  Thomas  Atkinson  fell  the  double  task  of  healing  the 
breach  in  the  church  ranks  and  of  dislodging  from  the  public  mind  the 
idea  that  the  Episcopal  Church  was  primarily  for  the  well-to-do.  In  the 
latter  respect  he  met  with  little  success,  for  his  denomination  continued 
to  draw  its  membership  chiefly  from  the  planter  aristocracy  and  the  of- 
ficial and  professional  classes.  Consequently  its  members  exerted  greater 
influence  on  the  State's  affairs  than  their  numbers  alone  would  seem  to 
warrant.  Until  after  the  War  between  the  States,  Episcopalianism  was 
confined  almost  exclusively  to  the  eastern  section. 

Of  the  denominations  that  attained  wide  popular  appeal,  the  first  to 
gain  a  foothold  was  the  Baptist,  though  the  first  congregation,  surviving 
as  the  Shiloh  Church,  was  not  organized  until  1727.  By  1755  the  Baptists 
outnumbered  all  other  denominations  combined.  Membership  came 
principally  from  the  rural  population  and  as  late  as  i860  only  30  of  the 
780  churches  were  in  towns  or  villages.  The  original  church  split  over 
doctrinal  differences  on  several  occasions.  The  most  far-reaching  divi- 
sion came  in  1830,  when  a  group,  disagreeing  with  the  regular  church 
on  the  question  of  benevolences,  withdrew  and  organized  as  the  Primi- 
tive Baptists.  They  opposed  all  missionary  and  Bible  societies  and  theo- 
logical seminaries  as  the  "inventions  of  man  and  not  warranted  by  the 
word  of  God."  Eventually,  Baptist  churches  became  as  much  a  part  of 
the  urban  life  of  the  State  as  other  denominations. 

Methodism,  facing  extreme  difficulties,  achieved  numerical  strength 
second  to  the  Baptists.  Many  manifested  instant  and  violent  opposition 
to  the  sect  because  of  its  stand  against  slavery  and  its  practice  of  preach- 
ing directly  to  the  Negroes.  Methodist  ministers  were  assaulted  and  their 
churches  burned.  One  man,  exasperated  by  his  wife's  connection  with 


00  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

the  faith,  applied  a  blister  plaster  to  her  to  cure  her  of  Methodism.  But 
evangelistic  zeal  did  not  weaken.  Joseph  Pilmoor,  who  in  1772  delivered 
a  sermon  at  Currituck  Courthouse,  was  soon  followed  by  circuit  riders 
who  covered  the  State  from  swamp  to  mountaintop.  Some  of  the  early 
preachers  were  Negroes,  and  to  that  race  belonged  Henry  Evans,  founder 
of  the  Fayetteville  Church.  The  most  indefatigable  proponent  of  Meth- 
odism in  North  Carolina  was  Bishop  Francis  Asbury,  whose  revealing 
diary,  kept  from  1771  to  1815,  is  extant. 

The  Presbyterians  preceded  the  Methodists  by  a  number  of  years,  but 
they  had  a  slower  numerical  growth.  Their  prestige  came  chiefly  from 
the  scholarship  of  their  ministers,  who  played  a  significant  educational 
role.  Organized  congregations  of  Presbyterians  originated  with  the  com- 
ing of  the  Scotch-Irish  from  Pennsylvania  into  the  Piedmont  region 
between  1735  and  1775.  They  were  further  increased  by  the  Scotch  High- 
landers who  came  into  the  State  by  way  of  Wilmington  after  1745. 

Various  other  sects  have  contributed  to  North  Carolina's  many-sided 
history,  some  with  roots  going  back  to  Colonial  days  and  others  of  more 
recent  origin.  The  Lutheran,  German  Reformed,  and  Moravian  ele- 
ments represent  well-defined  Teutonic  waves,  which  came  with  the  tide 
of  immigration  into  the  Piedmont  between  1745  and  1775.  The  Luther- 
ans were  the  most  numerous,  but  the  Moravians  attained  particular 
distinction.  Since  1758  the  Moravians  have  held  impressive  Easter  Sun- 
rise Services  which  attract  as  many  as  50,000  people  to  the  Home  Church 
in  Winston-Salem. 

Other  denominations  represented  in  the  State  include  the  Church  of 
Christ,  Scientist;  the  Seventh  Day  and  other  Adventist  bodies;  the 
Mormon;  the  Pentecostal  and  Pilgrim  Holiness;  the  Universalist;  the 
Dunkard  in  the  upper  Piedmont,  and  the  Mennonite  on  the  edge  of 
Dismal  Swamp.  In  the  east  near  the  Virginia  border  are  congregations 
of  "black  Jews" — Negro  adherents  of  the  Church  of  God  and  Saints  of 
Christ,  who  believe  that  they  are  descended  from  the  lost  tribes  of  Israel. 

Aided  largely  by  northern  and  to  some  extent  by  southern  denomina- 
tions, Negroes  organized  churches  in  great  numbers  after  the  War  be- 
tween the  States.  The  Reconstruction  period  witnessed  the  founding  by 
northern  churches  of  two  universities,  two  colleges,  and  several  lesser 
schools  for  Negroes. 

The  bill  of  rights  of  the  first  State  constitution  declared  that  "all  men 
have  a  natural  and  inalienable  right  to  worship  Almighty  God  accord- 
ing to  the  dictates  of  their  own  conscience."  But  the  32nd  article  of  the 
same  document  stated  that  "no  person  who  shall  deny  the  being  of 
God,  or  the  truth  of  the  Protestant  religion,  or  the  divine  authority  of 
either  the  Old  or  New  Testaments,  or  shall  hold  religious  opinions  in- 
compatible with  the  freedom  or  safety  of  the  State,  shall  be  capable  of 


RELIGION  87 

holding  any  office  or  place  of  trust  or  profit  in  the  civil  department 
within  this  State."  Jacob  Henry,  a  Jew  of  Carteret  County,  served  as  a 
member  of  the  house  of  commons  in  1808.  In  the  year  following,  H.  C. 
Mills  requested  the  house  to  declare  the  seat  vacant  because  of  Henry's 
religion.  Henry's  defense  was  so  stirring  that  the  house  voted  in  his 
favor,  and  the  speech  was  accorded  wide  circulation  in  all  the  Atlantic 
Seaboard  States. 

William  Gaston,  a  brilliant  young  jurist  of  the  Catholic  faith,  later 
influenced  the  modification  of  article  32.  The  change,  made  in  1835, 
substituted  the  word  "Christian"  for  "Protestant"  but  was  still  discrim- 
inative since  the  term  "Christian"  excluded  the  Jews.  In  the  1868  con- 
stitution, the  terminology  of  the  offending  clause  was  changed  so  as  to 
debar  from  office  only  those  who  denied  "the  Being  of  Almighty  God." 

North  Carolina  was  strongly  influenced  by  the  "Great  Revival"  that 
swept  the  country  after  the  Revolutionary  War  and  lasted  intermittently 
until  the  War  between  the  States.  Beginning  as  separate  movements 
within  a  number  of  denominations,  it  grew  into  a  mighty  power  that 
left  few  people  untouched  by  its  manifestations.  By  1804  the  tide  had 
swept  upward  to  its  climax. 

This  emotional  preaching,  interspersed  with  stirring  hymns,  induced 
physical  manifestations  known  as  "the  exercises."  These  included  the 
phenomena  known  as  jerking,  wheeling,  dancing,  laughing,  barking, 
and  falling  down. 

Rarer  but  no  less  interesting  were  the  marrying  and  "impression" 
exercises.  Under  their  influence,  one  could  claim  to  have  a  special  revela- 
tion from  the  Lord  that  a  certain  individual  was  his  rightful  mate,  and 
the  person  so  designated,  fearing  damnation  if  he  acted  contrary  to  the 
Lord's  wishes,  usually  consented  to  the  marriage.  The  Rev.  Joseph 
Moore  wrote  to  the  Rev.  Jesse  Lee  in  1806  that  "many  got  married,  and 
it  was  said  some  old  maids,  who  had  nearly  gotten  antiquated,  managed 
in  this  way  to  get  husbands."  One  old  woman  had  her  entire  crop  of 
flax  broken  free  of  charge  because  her  "impression"  was  that  the  Lord 
wanted  a  neighbor  to  perform  the  task  for  her. 

The  camp  meeting  became  an  established  feature  of  the  Great  Re- 
vival and  its  tradition  still  persists  in  the  periodic  revivals  conducted 
by  the  evangelical  denominations,  in  itinerant  tent  meetings,  and  in 
such  scattered  survivals  as  the  annual  interdenominational  camp  meet- 
ings of  the  Pentecostal  Holiness  Church  at  Falcon  and  of  the  Columbia 
Bible  School  and  the  Eliada  Home,  both  near  Asheville. 

Notwithstanding  its  many  excesses,  the  Great  Revival  brought  to  the 
forefront  trends  in  popular  thought  that  had  not  yet  lent  their  force 
in  any  perceptible  degree  to  the  State's  development.  The  churchman 
received  for  a  time  a  partial  release  from  the  restrictions  of  creed.  His 


00  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

thoughts  became  focused  on  the  individual  and  through  him  on  the 
social  welfare  of  mankind.  The  churches  entered  upon  a  definite  period 
of  benevolent  activities,  and  interested  themselves  in  the  establishment 
of  schools  and  poor  relief. 

The  history  of  education  and  the  history  of  religion  in  North  Caro- 
lina are  closely  interwoven.  As  early  as  1715  the  Quakers  instructed 
their  members  to  be  diligent  in  imparting  to  their  children  the  rudi- 
ments of  learning.  Some  kind  of  school  was  the  complement  of  each 
meetinghouse.  The  Moravians,  noted  for  their  scholarship,  exercised 
considerable  educational  influence.  During  the  Colonial  era  the  Presby- 
terians established  several  classical  schools,  the  most  noted  of  which  was 
the  Rev.  David  Caldwell's  school  at  Greensboro  in  1767,  where  many 
ministers,  lawyers,  and  physicians  were  trained;  and  Queen's  College 
in  Charlotte  in  1771.  Church-controlled  academies  were  chartered  by 
legislative  enactment  for  New  Bern  in  1766  and  Edenton  in  1770.  Such 
diverse  and  uncoordinated  efforts  toward  education  as  were  made  prior 
to  the  Revolution  grew  for  the  most  part  out  of  North  Carolina's  reli- 
gious life. 

After  the  Great  Revival,  Sunday  schools,  offering  free  instruction  for 
poor  children  in  the  rudimentary  subjects,  were  established  by  nearly 
every  denomination.  In  1825,  the  Orange  County  Sunday  School  So- 
ciety, with  22  schools  and  an  enrollment  of  1,000,  petitioned  the  State 
legislature  without  success  to  levy  a  tax  in  behalf  of  its  organization  to 
"save  more  children  from  a  life  of  ignorance  and  vice."  Out  of  such 
beginnings  grew  more  denominational  schools  of  secondary  standing. 
However,  it  was  only  after  the  State  university  had  been  for  30  years 
a  subject  of  bitter  controversy  that  denominations  began  to  establish 
colleges  of  their  own. 

Though  religion  played  a  significant  role  in  shaping  the  formative 
policies  of  the  State  university,  the  influence  of  William  R.  Davie,  a 
deist  and  a  spokesman  for  18th-century  rationalism,  was  strongly  felt. 
Dr.  Samuel  McCorkle,  Presbyterian  preacher  and  teacher,  and  Davie, 
the  most  influential  of  the  trustees,  typified  the  conflicting  concepts.  From 
the  beginning,  charges  of  infidelity  were  brought  against  certain  faculty 
members,  and  with  each  new  charge  church  support  was  further  with- 
drawn. In  an  effort  to  appease  clerical  criticism,  the  university  required 
all  students  to  attend  divine  service  and  examined  them  each  Sunday 
afternoon  in  the  general  principles  of  religion  and  morality.  But  there 
were  those  in  the  churches  who  remained  unimpressed  and  who  called 
attention  to  the  small  number  of  ministers  added  to  the  clerical  popu- 
lation of  North  Carolina  by  the  university. 

The  desire  to  provide  a  sectarian  religious  basis  for  higher  education, 
coupled  with  a  feeling  of  social  responsibility  that  had  found  expression 


RELI GION 


in  the  Sunday-school  movement,  gave  rise  to  a  number  of  denomina- 
tional colleges  (see  education). 

With  their  own  colleges  to  foster,  the  denominations  became  increas- 
ingly opposed  to  the  idea  of  any  State-supported  educational  institution. 
When  in  1837  the  university  trustees,  desiring  to  increase  its  patronage, 
offered  free  tuition  to  any  applicant  "of  good  character  native  of  the 
State,  unable  to  pay  Tuition  Fees,"  and  listed  as  one  of  the  advantages 
of  attending  the  institution  "the  formation  of  lasting  friendships  and 
associations  . .  .  among  those  who  are  to  constitute  no  small  portion  of 
our  future  rulers,  by  the  patronage  of  a  State  institution,"  the  denomina- 
tional colleges  construed  it  as  a  challenge  and  powerful,  unfair  com- 
petition. Charges  were  made  by  denominational  papers  that  the  uni- 
versity was  a  source  of  positive  evil  and  that  it  encouraged  in  its  students 
a  desire  for  "worldly  greatness  without  any  particular  reference  to  the 
higher  and  grander  interests  of  the  soul." 

Strangely  enough,  while  the  denominations  fought  the  university, 
each  struggled  for  its  proportionate  share  of  control  in  the  university's 
affairs.  From  the  beginning  an  intense  jealousy  of  the  Presbyterians 
existed  among  the  other  denominations,  because  for  many  years  a 
majority  of  the  faculty  members  and  most  of  the  presidents  were  Pres- 
byterians. Opposition  to  the  university  and  a  struggle  for  adequate 
representation  in  its  conduct  continued  as  active  forces  in  the  denomina- 
tional life  of  North  Carolina  until  the  late  1890's. 

With  the  dawn  of  the  20th  century  came  an  era  of  conciliation  between 
church  and  state  in  the  educational  field.  This  change  can  be  attributed 
partly  to  the  broader  vision  of  leaders  in  both  factions,  and  partly  to  the 
firmer  financial  foundations  that  the  denominational  colleges  had  estab- 
lished. Then,  too,  public  school  education  had  been  provided  for  by 
the  State  and  the  charge  could  no  longer  be  made  that  State  education 
was  aristocratic.  Religious  and  secular  forces  achieved  a  spirit  of  amity 
which  leaves  little  evidence  of  intolerance.  An  anti-evolution  bill,  for- 
bidding the  teaching  of  evolution  in  any  State-supported  school  of  North 
Carolina,  received  very  limited  backing  when  introduced  in  the  legisla- 
ture during  the  Scopes  trial  in  Tennessee. 

Meanwhile,  denominations  have  increased  in  number  and  in  mem- 
bership. North  Carolina  has  a  church-going  population  of  more  than 
1,400,000,  distributed  among  67  denominations,  and  worshiping  in  more 
than  10,000  churches.  In  1926  it  ranked  fifth  among  the  States  in  num- 
ber of  churches,  twelfth  in  number  of  church  members,  and  third  in 
number  of  church  members  in  rural  areas. 


SPORTS 
AND       RECREATION 


DESPITE  the  difficulties  attending  travel,  the  settlers  of  Colonial 
North  Carolina  would  ride  50  miles  to  see  a  horse  race,  or  leave 
their  businesses  to  watch  an  impromptu  cock  fight  outside  a 
tavern. 

Dr.  Brickell,  in  his  Natural  History  of  North  Carolina,  published 
in  1737,  notes  that  there  were  "Race-Paths  near  each  Town,  and  in  many 
parts  of  the  Country."  Besides  the  public  courses  there  were  race  tracks 
on  most  large  plantations.  Horses  for  racing  not  only  were  bred  on 
plantations  but  were  imported  from  England.  The  jockeys  were  often 
young  Negroes  who  rode  bareback.  In  North  Carolina  the  quarter-race, 
a  short  swift  dash  made  by  two  horses  on  parallel  paths,  was  especially 
popular. 

William  Attmore,  a  Philadelphia  merchant  who  visited  the  Colony 
in  1787,  saw  many  evils  in  connection  with  racing.  Not  only  were  large 
numbers  of  people  drawn  from  their  work,  but  there  was  "wagering 
and  betting;  much  quarreling,  wrangling,  Anger,  Swearing  & 
drinking. . ."  Attmore  saw  "white  Boys,  and  Negroes  eagerly  bet- 
ting Vi  a  quart  of  Rum,  a  drink  of  Grog,  &c,  as  well  as  Gentlemen 
betting  high. . ."  The  Gentlemen  sometimes  staked  a  plantation  on  a 
race. 

Cock  fighting  with  birds  imported  from  England  and  Ireland 
had  as  much  attraction  as  races  between  thoroughbred  horses.  Cham- 
pion cocks  were  also  bred  in  the  Colony  and  were  known  by  name  and 
rated  by  their  prowess.  Such  prize  cocks  fought  the  cocks  of  rival  coun- 
ties and  even  those  of  neighboring  Colonies,  while  great  crowds  gath- 
ered to  watch,  and  betting  was  heavy. 

The  crude  sport  of  gander  pulling  was  considered  a  prime  amuse- 
ment. "This,"  wrote  a  Colonial  gentleman,  "consists  in  hanging  an  old 
tough  gander  by  the  heels,  rubbing  his  neck  well  with  grease  and  soap, 
then  riding  under  him  with  speed,  seizing  him  by  the  neck  as  you 
pass,  and  endeavoring  to  pull  his  head  off." 

Militia  musters  were  ordinarily  celebrated  with  sports  as  well  as  with 
drinking  and  gambling.  Elections  and  other  public  gatherings  also 
furnished  such  opportunities.  Favorite  sports  were  throwing  the  sledge; 

90 


SPORTS     AND     RECREATION  91 

wrestling;  jumping  over  ditches  and  hedges;  fives,  which  was  a  kind 
of  hand  tennis;  long  bullets,  a  kind  of  football;  bandy,  a  forerunner  of 
golf,  sometimes  called  cambuc  or  goff ;  football,  an  early  variant  of  the 
modern  game,  somewhat  like  soccer;  quoits;  tenpins;  shooting  matches, 
and  horse  races. 

Dance  frolics,  as  they  were  called,  were  popular  from  the  early  days 
until  they  received  a  widespread  check  from  the  camp-meeting  move- 
ment not  long  before  the  War  between  the  States.  Although  dancing 
and  even  the  musical  instruments  associated  with  the  dance  were  se- 
verely denounced  by  revivalists,  the  square  dance  with  its  numerous 
figures  has  persisted  in  all  sections  of  the  State. 

Men  gathered  at  taverns  to  play  billiards  and  cards,  to  bowl,  and  to 
drink  and  gamble.  Peter  de  Bois,  living  in  Wilmington,  wrote  that 
"an  intollerable  itch  for  gaming  prevails  in  all  companies."  A  favorite 
game  was  all-fours,  which  was  similar  to  seven-up  and  muggins. 

In  1753  the  general  assembly  passed  an  act  "to  prevent  excessive  and 
deceitful  Gaming."  Tavern  keepers  were  forbidden  to  allow  on  their 
premises  any  game  of  chance  and  skill  except  billiards,  bowling,  back- 
gammon, draughts,  and  chess.  An  attempt  was  made  also  to  limit  the 
amount  of  tavern  debts.  But  these  and  subsequent  measures  failed  to 
check  the  passion  for  gambling. 

Hunting  and  fishing  were  favorite  pastimes  but  the  abundance  of 
game  and  its  use  as  food  made  these  amusements  less  sport  than  business 
or  slaughter.  Deer  were  run  down  with  dogs  by  men  on  horseback,  or 
were  hunted  in  the  Indian  fashion  by  which  a  man  inclosed  in  a  deer- 
skin managed  to  get  into  the  midst  of  a  herd. 

A  common  and  destructive  pastime  was  "fire-hunting."  A  band  of 
men  would  set  fire  to  the  woods  in  a  five-mile  circle  and  drive  the  ani- 
mals to  the  center,  where  they  could  easily  be  surrounded  and  slaugh- 
tered. There  were  organized  hunts  for  deer,  elk,  bear,  and  foxes.  Smaller 
animals,  such  as  opossums  and  raccoons,  were  hunted  a  great  deal  by 
boys  and  by  the  Negroes. 

The  wild  turkey  was  prized  above  all  birds  for  the  delicate  flavor  of 
its  meat.  Turkeys  not  only  were  shot  for  sport  but  were  trapped  in  flocks 
by  hunters  who  built  fires  at  night  under  their  roosting  trees.  They 
then  would  be  shot  in  great  numbers  as  they  took  wing. 

A  picturesque  sport  and  one  which  dates  from  Colonial  times  is  the 
tilting  tournament.  The  contest  was  an  imitation  of  the  jousts  of  the 
Middle  Ages,  providing  displays  of  horsemanship,  pageantry,  flowery 
speeches,  and  chivalric  honors  to  women.  The  "lists"  were  usually  three 
arches,  placed  at  suitable  distances  apart,  from  each  of  which  was  sus- 
pended a  small  metal  ring.  The  knight,  equipped  with  a  pointed  wooden 
lance,  endeavored  to  pick  off  the  rings  while  riding  at  a  gallop.  The 


92  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

winner  chose  the  queen  and  crowned  her,  while  the  runners-up  chose 
ladies-in-waiting. 

Knights  still  ride  at  the  ring  in  some  of  the  Southern  States.  In  North 
Carolina  the  Tryon  Riding  and  Hunt  Club  has  been  staging  the  Laurel 
Tilting  Tournament  annually  since  1925. 

Although  horse  racing  has  declined  as  a  sport,  the  State  and  some  of 
the  surviving  county  fairs  have  their  grandstands  crowded  for  the  horse 
races,  which  almost  always  are  trotting  matches.  Prizes,  usually  of 
money,  are  awarded  to  winners.  Betting  is  an  undercover  practice  as  it 
is  illegal.  Efforts  to  legalize  the  pari-mutuel  system  of  betting  have  been 
made  at  sessions  of  the  general  assembly  in  late  years,  but  without 
success. 

Cock  fighting  has  been  under  a  legal  ban  for  years  and  is  sufficiently 
discredited  in  public  opinion  to  have  little  chance  of  being  legalized 
again.  But  the  sport,  locally  always  spoken  of  as  "rooster  fighting," 
goes  on. 

The  sporting  events  that  draw  the  largest  crowds  at  the  present  time 
are  intercollegiate  football  games.  Interest  in  the  game  and  rivalry 
between  colleges  have  increased  in  recent  years,  though  the  Thanksgiv- 
ing Day  game  between  the  Universities  of  North  Carolina  and  Virginia 
had  become  a  "classic"  even  before  the  era  of  good  roads.  However,  there 
is  as  keen  rivalry  now  between  certain  institutions  within  the  State. 

Baseball  is  popular,  and  several  of  the  larger  cities  maintain  profes- 
sional teams  in  the  Piedmont  League.  There  are  a  number  of  semi- 
professional  leagues  in  the  State.  During  the  1930's  softball  has  increased 
in  popularity  among  amateur  groups. 

Tennis  receives  more  space  than  formerly  on  the  sports  pages  of  the 
State  papers.  The  University  of  North  Carolina  has  won  first  place  in  a 
number  of  national  intercollegiate  contests.  Invitation  tournaments  at 
Asheville,  Pinehurst,  Sedgefield,  Southern  Pines,  and  Charlotte  have 
stimulated  interest  in  the  game. 

Ever  since  the  first  golf  courses  were  built  at  Wilmington  and  Winston- 
Salem  about  1896,  interest  in  the  game  has  grown,  and  in  recent  years 
a  number  of  municipal  golf  courses  have  been  established.  The  State  is 
now  known  for  its  many  fine  courses  and  its  tournaments  that  draw 
star  players  from  all  over  the  country.  The  number  of  courses  (1939) 
total  87  in  64  different  locations.  Of  these  31  have  18  or  more  holes, 
and  26  are  open  to  the  public,  while  for  most  of  the  61  private  courses 
visitors  can  obtain  courtesy  cards  through  friends  or  hotels. 

Golf  is  available  at  every  season  of  the  year,  and  there  is  an  almost 
endless  variety  of  golfing  terrain,  the  altitude  of  the  courses  ranging  from 
8  feet  above  sea  level  at  Cape  Fear  to  4,000  feet  at  Blowing  Rock,  which 
has  the  highest  course  east  of  the  Rockies.  Pinehurst  has  the  reputation 


SPORTS    AND    RECREATION  93 

of  being  the  place  where  more  golf  is  played  annually  than  anywhere 
else  in  the  world.  Its  famous  Number  2  course,  built  by  Donald  Ross, 
is  known  as  the  St.  Andrews  of  America,  and  is  the  scene  of  the  North 
and  South  championship  tournaments. 

The  most  extensive  recreational  areas  of  the  State  are  the  Great 
Smoky  Mountains  National  Park,  and  the  national  forests.  Swimming 
and  boating  can  be  enjoyed  for  a  fairly  long  season  on  the  lakes,  sounds, 
and  seashore  of  the  State,  and  the  rivers  and  lakes  provide  interesting 
canoe  trips. 

Hunting  is  now  regarded  chiefly  as  a  sport,  though  in  remote  sec- 
tions men  and  boys  still  go  to  the  woods  with  guns  for  the  purpose  of 
filling  the  dinner  pot.  North  Carolina  offers  the  sportsman  almost  every 
type  of  game  to  be  found  in  the  country.  The  extensive  hunting  grounds 
are  in  the  large  areas  of  unsettled  country  and  publicly  owned  lands, 
and  in  the  lands  of  private  owners.  Bear,  deer,  wild  turkey,  and  smaller 
game  such  as  rabbits  and  squirrels,  quail,  geese,  ducks,  and  brant,  are 
protected  by  laws  and  game  preserves.  Fox  hunts  are  held  near  Southern 
Pines,  Asheboro,  Tryon,  and  Asheville;  and  the  opossum  hunt,  held 
at  night,  is  popular.  Migratory  waterfowl  in  great  numbers  winter 
along  the  North  Carolina  coast.  Currituck  Sound  and  Lake  Matta- 
muskeet  are  the  best-known  grounds  for  duck,  goose,  and  brant  shoot- 
ing, but  there  are  many  other  hunting  centers  for  these  birds. 

From  the  coldest  streams  of  the  high  altitudes  to  the  warm  seacoast 
waters,  from  the  speckled  trout  to  the  tropical  dolphin  and  amber  jack, 
North  Carolina  has  variety  and  a  plentiful  supply  to  offer  the  fisher- 
man. In  the  mountains,  but  at  lower  altitudes  than  the  brook  or  speckled 
trout,  are  the  rainbow  and  brown  trout.  In  the  power  reservoirs  of  the 
Piedmont  and  the  lakes  and  streams  of  the  Coastal  Plain  are  large-  and 
small-mouthed  bass,  bream,  and  perch.  Roanoke  River  is  probably  the 
best  location  in  the  country  for  striped-bass  fishing. 

The  long  coast  line  and  the  sounds  near  the  coast  are  famous  fishing 
grounds.  Channel  bass,  ranging  from  30  to  50  pounds,  occur  along  the 
entire  coast.  The  powerful  kingfish  or  cero,  from  15  to  40  pounds,  is 
caught  near  Beaufort  and  Morehead  City.  The  sheepshead  is  found  at 
several  points  from  Nags  Head  to  Little  River.  Off  Cape  Hatteras,  Cape 
Lookout,  and  Cape  Fear,  points  nearest  the  Gulf  Stream,  dolphin  and 
amberjack  have  been  taken  in  recent  years. 


FOLKWAYS 
AND       FOLKLORE 


MANY  BIZARRE  customs  and  superstitions  are  hidden  in  the 
Great  Smoky  Mountains  and  the  dunes  of  North  Carolina's 
seacoast.  It  is  a  temptation  to  describe  them  first.  But  it  seems 
more  important  to  give  an  impression  of  the  folkways  of  North  Caro- 
lina as  a  whole — ways  of  doing  and  acting  and  talking  that  are  observed 
as  one  travels  about  and  talks  to  people  in  leisure  hours  or  at  their  ordi- 
nary occupations. 

Americans,  north  and  south,  east  and  west,  appear  to  be  very  much 
alike.  Whether  they  cultivate  cotton  in  the  South  or  corn  in  the 
Middle  West,  they  order  the  same  hats  and  shirts  from  the  same  stores, 
ride  in  the  same  elevators,  and  buy  hoes  and  plows  from  the  same  fac- 
tories. But  there  are  variations  in  the  language  and  customs  surround- 
ing the  use  of  these  factory-made  articles.  The  southerner  "chops"  his 
cotton  instead  of  hoeing  it,  and  says  he  has  "laid-by  his  crop"  when  the 
last  cultivating  has  been  finished.  The  southern  business  man  whips  off 
his  hat  when  a  lady  enters  the  elevator,  while  the  hustling  busy  north- 
erner has  partly  abandoned  this  custom.  The  ante-bellum  southern 
planter  might  have  the  languid  rakish  habit  of  wearing  a  hat  indoors 
at  his  desk,  while  the  northerner  never  did. 

With  few  exceptions  the  white  population  of  North  Carolina  is  made 
up  of  descendants  of  northern  European  stock  from  what  may  be  called 
the  yeoman  class.  Not  so  rich  in  lordly  plantations  as  the  neighboring 
States  of  Virginia  and  South  Carolina,  North  Carolina  had  less  diffi- 
culty in  adjusting  itself  to  social  change  after  the  War  between  the 
States  and  Reconstruction.  As  a  result,  people  in  this  State,  from 
Cherokee  to  Currituck,  have  a  feeling  of  neighborliness,  an  almost 
pioneer  closeness  among  people  in  all  walks  of  life.  Any  Sunday  in  the 
social  columns  of  the  State  newspapers  a  picture  of  some  mill-town 
bride  may  appear  alongside  that  of  the  mill  owner's  daughter. 

The  omnipresent  southern  hospitality  comes  largely  from  a  spirit 
of  delightful  informality,  or  from  just  plain  "southern  don't-care."  The 
southern  housewife  is  not  unduly  embarrassed  by  an  unexpected  guest. 
Good  inns  and  even  sizable  towns  are  still  comparatively  far  apart  in 
the  South.  For  generations  southerners  accepted  travelers  as  a  respon- 

94 


FOLKWAYS     AND     FOLKLORE  95 

sibility,  and  enjoyed  them  as  links  with  the  world  beyond  their  reach. 
Furthermore,  where  the  pattern  of.  eating  and  sleeping  is  fairly  elastic, 
no  one  bothers  much  over  one  more  "name  in  the  pot"  or  one  more 
sleeper  in  a  bedroom.  The  poorest  backwoods  housewife  will  offer  the 
best  she  has,  with  perhaps  a  cheerful,  apologetic,  "Come  in  if  you  can 
get  in  for  the  dirt." 

The  speech  of  the  southerner  appears  to  ignore  effort  in  its  slow, 
carelessly  articulated  syllables.  And  prominent  North  Carolinians  still 
cling  to  their  "  'tain't  so"  and  "  'twan't  nothin'  "  because  their  fathers 
found  these  expressive,  and  they  just  don't  want  to  change.  Perhaps 
provincial,  this  spirit  nevertheless  makes  for  an  individual  flavor  of 
speech  and  thought,  a  sort  of  shrewd  peasant  devotion  to  things  native 
and  tried.  Everywhere,  from  the  country  store  and  filling  station  to  the 
halls  of  the  State  legislature,  pithy  sayings  are  quoted,  salty  yarns  are 
spun.  For  North  Carolinians  possess  the  genuine  countryman's  humor. 
They  live  in  a  State  that  is  primarily  agricultural.  Practically  all  of  them 
have  had  some  contact  with  farm  life.  Even  the  mill  operatives  are  apt 
to  drift  back  and  forth  between  sharecropping  and  mill  work. 

Largely  because  of  this  closeness  to  the  soil  there  are  some  customs 
and  habits  common  to  all  classes  in  the  State,  and  there  remain  prefer- 
ences that  stay  with  a  man  no  matter  how  wealthy  he  may  become  or 
how  well-traveled.  The  real  North  Carolinian  loves  his  turnip  salad 
cooked  with  pork,  his  country  butter  and  fried  ham,  sweet  yams  and 
chopped  barbecue.  He  will  send  home  from  far  places  for  a  supply  of 
white  corn  meal  ground  by  the  old-fashioned  water  mill.  One  of  the 
hardships  of  town  life  for  the  mountaineer  in  a  Piedmont  cotton  mill 
is  the  absence  of  spring  water,  cold  and  clear,  from  the  depths  of  the 
granite  hill.  Similarly,  many  wealthy  city  dwellers  never  lose  their  taste 
for  well  water.  In  town  as  well  as  country  may  be  seen  patchwork  quilts 
sunning  on  the  back  fence,  pliable  home-made  sedge  brooms  standing 
behind  the  "cook-room"  door,  fat  pine  lightwood  supplied  for  kindling, 
and  the  "old-timy"  hickory  cane-bottomed  chair  tilted  back  on  two  legs 
against  the  porch  for  perfect  comfort. 

Many  forms  of  recreation  illustrate  this  kinship  between  classes :  games 
and  beliefs  of  children  are  the  same  in  town  and  country;  similar  meth- 
ods are  used  by  all  hunters  who  go  out  after  foxes,  rabbits,  birds,  'coons, 
and  'possums,  and  fishing  is  a  democratic  sport.  Court  week  is  observed, 
and  holidays  are  numerous.  The  high  spot  of  the  year,  Christmas,  is  a 
day  of  true  southern  gayety,  hailed  often  with  firecrackers  at  daybreak 
and  a  heavily  laden  dinner  table  at  noon,  with  gifts  and  eggnog.  The 
South  has  never  been  solemn  in  the  observation  of  this  sacred  day,  and 
for  a  long  time  Christmas  has  been  doubling  for  the  Fourth  of  July. 
In  recent  decades  the  National  Independence  Day  has  regained  some 


96  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

recognition,  but  Christmas  continues  to  be  the  big  day,  big  in  joy,  big  in 
the  returns  to  trade.  Merchants  have  stimulated  the  development  of 
certain  harvest  celebrations  such  as  the  strawberry,  peach,  and  tobacco 
festivals,  and  of  special  occasions  like  the  dogwood  festivals  and  moun- 
tain-music contests  that  have  the  avowed  purpose  of  encouraging  the 
folk  arts.  These  are  good  examples  of  traditions  arising  to  meet  certain 
needs  of  the  people.  In  similar  fashion  customs  may  pass  and  be  for- 
gotten— witness  the  growing  neglect  of  the  Confederate  Memorial  Day 
since  the  World  War  unified  North  and  South. 

Life  everywhere  in  North  Carolina  is  still  influenced  by  a  code  of 
religious  observation.  The  urge  to  a  simple  faith  gives  the  town  dweller 
his  habit  of  churchgoing,  just  as  it  inspires  his  more  primitive  country 
kin  to  "get  religion"  at  revivals.  After  listening  to  "preaching,"  the 
former  may  leave  his  fine  brick  church  determined  to  swear  off  ciga- 
rettes. The  latter  may  take  a  more  violent  turn  and,  like  one  brother  in 
Harnett  County,  go  home  and  pull  up  his  excellent  tobacco  crop,  con- 
vinced it  is  of  the  Devil's  planting.  The  behavior  is  different  in  degree 
but  the  underlying  urge  is  the  same.  Sometimes  a  revivalist  will  sweep 
together  all  the  elements  of  a  section,  rich  and  poor,  town  and  country, 
into  a  fanatical  band. 

In  its  ordinary  manifestations  the  religious  code  shows  its  influence 
throughout  the  State:  in  the  lack  of  liberality  in  the  daily  press,  in  the 
strictness  of  Sunday  blue  laws,  in  the  rules  of  certain  sects  that  frown 
on  card  playing,  in  the  prohibition  of  dancing  at  some  of  the  largest 
colleges.  In  town  and  country  there  are  various  church  entertainments: 
children's  day  with  dialogues,  recitations,  and  pageants;  homecoming 
days  that  attract  the  old  attendants,  and  birthday  suppers  and  "pound- 
ings" given  for  the  pastor.  A  wake,  with  the  less  sophisticated,  becomes 
something  of  a  social  occasion  as  neighbors  gather  to  "set  up." 

Perfect  geographical  conditions  for  preserving  old  lore  occur  in  the 
southern  mountains.  Here  a  delighted  explorer,  Cecil  Sharp,  the  student 
of  folk  music  and  dances,  found  old  English  forms  of  speech,  Eliza- 
bethan songs  and  ballads,  and  people  who  wove  their  homespun  clothes 
and  made  their  soap  by  the  signs  of  the  moon  just  as  the  country  people 
used  to  do  in  England.  Most  readers  of  folklore  have  heard  of  the 
Great  Smoky  Mountain  natives  and  their  ways.  So  celebrated  has  this 
section  become  that  few  realize  the  very  same  customs  and  forms  of 
speech  may  be  found  in  isolated  sections  in  all  parts  of  North  Carolina 
and  in  other  States  as  well.  Almost  every  county  has  its  backwoods 
districts  where  old  English  ballads  are  still  sung,  where  old  women  know 
how  to  dye  and  weave,  and  where  pottery  churns  and  jugs  are  made 
from  the  local  clay.  There  is,  too,  an  isolation  arising  from  social  con- 
ditions and  wherever  there  are  underprivileged  people  with  scanty  edu- 


FOLKWAYS    AND    FOLKLORE  97 

cation,  families  cling  to  the  old  ways  and  the  old  speech,  unconsciously 
preserving  folklore  that  harks  back  to  pioneer  days,  and  beyond  these 
to  England. 

Few  realize  that  the  Negro  race  has  been  an  agency  for  perpetuating 
Anglo-Saxon  folkways,  and  that  in  remodeling  and  adapting  this  lore 
the  Negro  has  made  one  of  his  most  distinctive  contributions.  But  a 
careful  source  study  has  shown  that  many  so-called  African  supersti- 
tions are  accepted  as  African  in  origin  simply  because  they  are  strange 
to  present-day  white  people.  Actually  many  of  these  beliefs  and  customs 
were  picked  up  from  their  white  masters  by  the  early  slaves,  who 
handed  them  on  to  their  descendants  as  part  of  their  own  folk  belief. 
English  witchcraft  influencing  Negro  conjure  and  hoodoo  ritual,  cures 
and  charms  of  Shakespeare's  time  preserved  by  Negro  midwives,  old 
English  phrases  in  the  softened  Negro  speech,  are  some  of  the  discov- 
eries of  students  of  the  South. 

Although  similarities  occur  in  every  section  of  the  State,  each  isolated 
geographical  division,  created  by  the  great  natural  barriers  of  mountains 
and  sea,  has  developed  special  characteristics.  The  remote  and  stormy 
shoals  and  islands  of  the  seaboard  have  a  distinctive  folklore,  fully  as 
interesting  as  that  of  the  mountains,  but  practically  unknown  to  out- 
siders. Similarities  in  the  customs  of  coast  and  mountain  people  point 
to  their  common  origin.  Some  people  of  both  sections  use  the  obsolete 
forms  of  "holp"  for  help,  "airy"  for  any,  "j'int"  for  joint,  "air"  for 
are — these  and  many  other  expressions  were  good  English  in  Shake- 
speare's time.  Certain  superstitions,  too,  are  recognized  in  both  parts  of 
the  State;  for  example,  meeting  a  woman  is  bad  luck  for  a  mountain 
huntsman  just  as  it  is  for  a  fisherman  of  the  banks — and  as  it  was  in 
past  times  for  the  natives  of  Sussex  or  Ireland. 

However,  the  coast  people,  the  "bankers"  in  particular,  have  lived  so 
long  isolated  that  their  ways  have  a  distinct  flavor  of  their  own.  Espe- 
cially is  this  true  of  their  speech,  though  it  is  difficult  to  convey  the 
impression.  Subtle  differences  of  dialect  depend  not  only  on  phrases 
and  their  pronunciation  but  on  the  intonation,  drawl,  and  rhythm  of 
the  utterance,  impossible  to  indicate  in  print.  People  sensitive  to  dialect 
rhythms  can  tell  by  a  man's  speech  whether  he  comes  from  Hatteras  or 
Roanoke  Island,  or  even  from  which  end  of  Roanoke  Island,  but  they 
can  hardly  define  the  differences,  and  they  could  never  transcribe  the 
pronunciation  phonetically.  There  are  some  easily  recorded  distinctions 
of  North  Carolina  coastal  speech — one  the  quality  of  the  vowels,  "oi" 
for  i.  "Hoigh  toide,  no  feesh,"  says  the  fisherman,  "Oi'm  goin'  home." 
Another  young  native  complains  of  the  girls  ("darlin's"  in  his  dialect), 
"Oi  loike  the  darlin's  but  the  darlin's  don't  loike  me."  Not  everywhere 
on  the  coast,  but  on  certain  banks  and  islands,  the  "v"  is  pronounced 


98  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

"w,"  so  that  it  might  be  remarked  of  Virgil,  for  instance,  that  "Woigil 
is  a  good  prowider  of  wictuals." 

To  the  banker  the  mainland  is  "the  country"  or  "the  country  over 
the  sound."  Daylight  is  "calm  daylight"  or  "calm  of  day,"  and  he  prom- 
ises to  do  a  task  "morning  soon,"  meaning  the  next  day.  When  a  person 
is  dying  he  is  said  to  be  "going  to  leeward."  "Rock"  is  a  word  seldom 
heard,  for  there  are  no  rocks  on  the  sand  dunes.  Instead  of  the  expression 
"to  throw  a  rock,"  the  schoolboy  of  the  coast  uses  the  phrase  "to  chunk." 

There  are  many  picturesque  items  of  folklore  current  among  unso- 
phisticated people,  both  white  and  Negroes,  throughout  the  State.  The 
speech  of  the  countryman  is  full  of  imaginative  phrases,  especially  those 
referring  to  the  mystery  of  the  sky  and  of  the  seasons.  The  names  of 
constellations  include  "Job's  Coffin  in  the  Sky"  and  "the  Lost  Ell  and 
Yard"  (Orion).  Late  afternoon  is  "the  pink  of  the  evenin'  "  or  "day 
down,"  or  the  time  when  "evenin'  is  a-pinkin'  in." 

Common  phrases  of  the  household  may  be  quaint  and  humorous.  A 
mother  speaks  proudly  of  her  boy,  "ain't  he  a  show,"  "ain't  he  a  mess," 
"he's'  something  on  a  stick,"  "plenty  smart,"  "right  smart  and  sassy,"  or 
"smart  as  a  briar,"  "a  regular  little  Trojas  man."  On  the  other  hand  she 
may  declare  "the  little  varmint's  not  worth  the  salt  that  goes  into  his 
bread,"  and  that  she  will  "git  a  switch  to  him  and  wear  him  out,"  "lick 
the  livin'  lard  out'n  him,"  or  "purely  pour  the  hickory  on"  and  see  if 
that  will  "learn  him  manners."  The  boy,  or  "chap,"  may  be  called  a  little 
"shirttail  boy"  to  distinguish  him  from  her  "arm  baby  and  her  knee 
baby."  The  "arm  baby"  is  also  the  "least  'un,"  the  "teeniney,"  or  "teeny 
chap,"  her  youngest.  The  kitchen  is  a  "cook  room,"  the  poker  is  a  "fire- 
stick,"  a  shoehorn  is  a  "slipper-slide,"  the  storeroom  a  "plunder  room," 
and  she  herself  is  always  busy  "  'suaging  young'uns."  A  common  usage 
among  older  people  is  "gran'boy"  for  grandson. 

Among  some  farm  people,  if  the  cow  is  sick  she  has  doubtless  lost 
her  cud  and  another  must  be  made  of  an  old  greasy  dishcloth  and  given 
her  to  chew;  or  if  she  suffers  from  hollow  horn,  her  horn  must  be 
bored  and  salt  inserted.  If  the  crop  is  being  planted  it  must  be  in  the 
right  time  of  the  moon,  for  there  are  such  things  as  good  and  bad  luck. 
And  then  there  are  "bug  days."  "Pa  was  a-plantin'  his  potatoes  when 
Alex  come  along  and  says,  'Mr.  Jones,  stop  right  where  you  are.  Them 
'taters  won't  git  a  chanct  to  make.  The  bugs'll  git  'em.  This  here  is  bug 
day.'  "  Naturally  Pa  stops  and  waits  till  bug  day  has  passed.  For  crops 
that  fruit  underground  he  must  plant  while  the  moon  is  dark,  but  the 
light  of  the  moon  is  best  for  beans  and  such  plants  as  fruit  above  the 
ground.  The  almanac  is  a  necessity  in  these  prognostications,  for  so 
many  things  are  governed  by  the  phases  of  the  moon.  A  woman  is  said 
to  have  a  hard  time  in  childbirth  if  her  child  comes  at  the  wrong  time 


FOLKWAYS     AND     FOLKLORE  99 

of  the  moon.  The  light  or  darkness  of  the  heavens  also  governs  the 
making  of  soap  and  the  killing  of  hogs  and  curing  of  meat. 

These  rules  vary  in  different  localities.  In  one  place  hogs  must  be 
killed  in  the  dark  of  the  moon;  another  neighborhod  swears  that  such 
action  will  cause  the  meat  to  shrivel  in  the  cooking.  In  writing  of  South 
Carolina  Negroes,  DuBose  Heyward  describes  the  stampede  away  from 
the  graveyard  because  the  last  person  to  leave  is  fated  to  be  the  next 
person  to  die.  In  North  Carolina  the  reverse  appears  to  be  believed,  and 
no  one  is  anxious  to  be  the  first  away  from  the  graveyard. 

Folk  beliefs  concerning  sickness  and  death  are  numerous  and  most 
of  them  date  from  early  times.  Notorious  omens  of  bad  luck  are  the 
screeching  of  owls,  baying  of  dogs,  and  "ticking"  of  the  death  watch 
(a  small  insect)  in  the  walls  of  a  room.  A  corpse  is  carried  out  of  the 
house  feet  foremost  and  buried  facing  the  east,  to  be  ready  for  the 
second  coming  of  Christ.  At  the  funeral  it  is  customary  in  country 
districts  to  open  the  coffin  and  allow  the  neighbors  to  pass  by.  A  funeral 
sermon  is  generally  preached,  and  in  some  places  the  men  who  have 
known  the  dead  person  take  turns  shoveling  the  dirt  into  the  grave. 
Where  headstones  are  not  erected  little  fences  are  sometimes  built  or 
even  miniature  roofed  shelters  are  placed  over  the  grave.  Glass  orna- 
ments or  the  toys  of  a  child  are  sometimes  found  on  graves  even  today, 
and  in  certain  Negro  graveyards  the  half-used  bottles  of  medicine  of  the 
deceased  are  placed  there. 

Among  unlucky  omens  the  bird  in  the  house  is  one  most  to  be  feared. 
Often  the  tale  goes  about  that  this  bird  of  ill  fortune  is  white,  and  it  is 
somehow  linked  with  the  idea  of  the  departing  soul  of  the  sick  person; 
or  it  may  be  a  spirit  of  warning. 

The  tales  that  are  told  around  the  fire  at  night  are  apt  to  take  on  a 
droll  sly  humor,  especially  those  "tall  tales"  of  exaggeration.  In  eastern 
North  Carolina  there  is  a  legendary  folk  character  whose  deeds  of 
strength  make  him  comparable  to  the  Paul  Bunyan  of  the  northern  lum- 
bermen. This  is  a  hefty  giant  of  a  man  named  Broadhuss,  who  used  to 
eat  a  cow  or  a  hog  at  a  meal  and,  when  he  wanted  to  drink,  lifted  up  a 
whole  cask  and  of  course  drank  out  of  the  bung.  Extravagant  tales  are 
improvised  about  Broadhuss  and  his  extraordinary  family.  Similar  char- 
acters exercise  the  imagination  in  other  sections. 

Strange  things  are  told  about  certain  animals.  A  'coon  that  is  bothered 
by  fleas  is  supposed  to  get  into  a  creek,  lure  the  pests  onto  the  tip  of 
his  nose,  and  then  duck  under  to  drown  them.  The  'possum  is  said  to 
give  birth  to  its  young  by  way  of  its  nostrils.  Hoop  snakes  are  supposed 
to  be  fantastic  reptiles  that  take  their  tails  in  their  mouths  and  pursue 
their  victims  down  a  hill,  rolling  along  like  a  hoop.  Whip  snakes  are 
thought  to  have  the  habit  of  wrapping  their  victim  against  a  tree  and 


100  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

whipping  him  with  their  tails.  Around  Wilmington,  when  the  sora  rails, 
a  kind  of  marsh  bird,  migrate  for  the  winter,  people  explain  their  sudden 
disappearance  by  saying  that  they  go  into  the  ground  to  come  out  in  the 
spring  as  bullfrogs. 

Many  old  and  lovely  ballads  and  folk  songs  are  still  current  in  all 
sections  of  North  Carolina.  These,  as  well  as  old  dances  and  children's 
singing  games,  have  been  carefully  collected  by  folklorists.  Newer 
ballads  on  subjects  of  current  interest  are  found  here  and  there,  usually 
the  work  of  one  individual  who  sometimes  sells  his  poems  on  sheets  like 
the  old  broadsides.  A  striking  event,  such  as  a  flood,  the  sinking  of  the 
Titanic,  or  a  local  murder,  will  inspire  the  making  of  verses  and  their 
attachment  to  a  familiar  tune  or  to  one  invented  especially  for  the  song. 
Then,  its  origin  forgotten,  its  form  changing,  the  song  spreads  from 
place  to  place  and  becomes  a  part  of  living  folklore  to  be  added  to  the 
great  body  of  oral  tradition. 


EATING 
AND       DRINKING 


IN  THE  LATE  18th  century  a  traveler,  lost  in  the  wilds  of  North 
Carolina,  was  hospitably  received  at  a  farmhouse.  "Here,"  he  re- 
cords in  his  diary,  "I  found  a  large  table  loaded  with  fat  roasted 
turkies,  geese  and  ducks,  boiled  fowls,  large  hams,  hung-beef,  barbecued 
pig  etc.  enough  for  five-and-twenty  men." 

Had  the  traveler  happened  upon  a  small  frontier  cabin  instead  of  a 
large  farmhouse  he  would  have  found  less  variety.  Corn  and  pork  were 
the  staple  foods,  often  the  only  ones.  It  was  said  of  the  average  18th- 
century  North  Carolinian  that  if  he  could  raise  enough  corn  and  pork 
for  subsistence,  he  cared  for  nothing  more.  John  Lawson,  an  early 
historian  of  the  Colony,  thought  the  Carolina  pork  "fed  on  peaches, 
maiz,  and  such  other  natural  produce"  to  be  "some  of  the  sweetest  meat 
that  the  world  afTords."  William  Byrd  "made  a  North  Carolina  Dinner 
upon  Fresh  Pork."  "Meat"  still  means  pork  to  many  people  in  the  State. 

Kitchen  equipment  was  meager  in  most  Colonial  homes,  rich  or  poor. 
The  kitchen  itself  was  a  log  room  that  usually  stood  in  the  back  yard  a 
little  distance  from  the  house.  Cooking  was  done  over  the  coals  in  a 
large  fireplace  with  a  deep  stone  or  brick  hearth.  Big  pots  for  boiling 
were  hung  from  hooks  on  an  iron  crane,  and  the  small  pots  rested  on 
an  iron  trivet,  which  was  a  ring  supported  by  three  legs.  Spiders  and 
skillets  were  set  directly  on  the  coals.  For  baking  there  was  an  iron  oven 
that  stood  on  legs  and  had  a  tight  cover,  so  that  the  coals  could  be  piled 
on  top  as  well  as  raked  beneath.  Chicken  pies  and  deep-dish  pies  of 
apples  and  peaches  were  cooked  in  these  ovens  without  being  put  into 
pans.  Sometimes  brick  ovens  with  close-fitting  iron  doors  were  built 
either  inside  or  outside  the  chimneys.  For  hours  before  baking  was  to 
be  done,  hot  fires  of  oak  or  hickory  were  kept  burning  in  the  oven. 
Then  the  coals  were  raked  out  and  the  food  was  put  in  to  bake  in 
the  stored  heat.  Whole  hams,  suckling  pigs,  chickens,  and  turkeys, 
great  thick  loaves  of  salt-rising  bread,  and  delicate  cakes  were  cooked 
to  a  turn  in  these  ovens. 

The  wills  and  inventories  of  early  settlers  reveal  that  table  equipment 
was  highly  prized.  Although  the  wealthier  planters  lived  in  rude  sur- 


102  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

roundings,  they  were  well  supplied  with  glass,  china,  pewter,  and  even 
silver,  imported  or  made  on  the  place  by  traveling  silversmiths.  The 
majority  of  the  people  ate  from  plain  earthenware,  made  good  use  of 
their  fingers,  and,  like  the  planters,  valued  their  tin,  iron,  and  pewter 
spoons,  steel  knives,  and  two-tined  iron  forks  with  buckhorn  handles. 

In  a  land  where  the  most  critical  travelers  agreed  there  was  "every 
gift  of  nature,"  the  tables  of  the  industrious  farmers  were  well  laden. 
No  meal  was  complete  with  only  one  meat  dish.  There  was  ham — a 
whole  one — and  perhaps  a  smothered  chicken,  roasted  turkey  or  guinea 
hen,  barbecued  lamb  or  pig,  and  often  some  wild  game.  The  smoke- 
houses stood  near  the  kitchen.  Hanging  from  the  rafters  were  cured 
smoked  hams,  bacon,  hog  jowl,  and  sausage,  highly  seasoned  with  sage 
and  red  pepper  and  stuffed  in  long  muslin  sacks  or  tied  in  clean  corn 
shucks.  In  the  wintertime  there  was  also  souse  meat,  scrapple,  and  liver 
pudding.  When  the  dinner  bell,  suspended  from  a  pole,  called  the  hands 
from  the  field,  the  children  said  it  rang,  "Run  nigger  run,  the  pigtail's 
done!"  White  folk  as  well  as  Negroes  liked  their  "chitlin's"  (chitter- 
lings) fried  and  seasoned  with  pepper  sauce. 

"Indian  meal,"  of  water-ground  corn,  was  made  into  many  kinds  of 
bread:  johnnycake,  hoecake,  ash  cake,  corn  pone,  corn  dodger,  cracklin' 
bread,  spoon  bread,  and  corn  light  bread.  Corn  meal  was  made  into 
mush  for  a  breakfast  or  supper  dish.  From  corn  also  came  big  hominy 
and  hominy  grits. 

Besides  corn  breads,  there  were  hot  biscuits,  buckwheat  and  plain 
battercakes,  and  waffles.  Salt-rising  bread  and  light  bread  were  baked 
in  large  batches  to  last  several  days.  Beaten  biscuits  were  for  festive 
occasions. 

Tea  cakes,  ginger  puddings,  potato  pudding  made  from  sweet  pota- 
toes grated  raw,  gingersnaps,  and  gingerbreads  were  popular  sweets. 
Pies  were  great  favorites  and  many  varieties  appeared  on  the  table: 
chess  pies,  molasses  pies,  green  apple,  sweet  potato  custard,  sliced  sweet 
potato  pies,  and  the  deep-dish  pies  called  cobblers,  made  of  peaches, 
apples,  wild  dewberries,  or  blackberries. 

The  favorite  cakes  were  pound,  marble,  spice,  walnut  or  hickory-nut, 
sponge,  and  fruit  cakes.  For  big  occasions  such  as  weddings  and  Christ- 
mas dinners  a  dozen  kinds  of  cake  might  be  made.  Boiled  custard,  bran- 
died  peaches,  and  syllabub  made  from  cream  and  wine  were  also  part 
of  such  festivities. 

Wine  was  often  served  with  cake.  Except  where  religious  prejudice 
barred  it,  every  household  had  a  variety  of  wines,  imported  or  made 
at  home  from  the  many  wild  and  cultivated  grapes,  berries,  and  other 
fruits.  The  scuppernong,  a  white  grape  native  to  the  State,  furnished 
an  especially  fine-flavored  sweet  wine. 


EATING     AND     DRINKING  IO3 

In  the  18th  century  it  was  "very  much  the  custom"  in  North  Carolina 
"to  drink  Drams  of  some  kind  or  other  before  Breakfast."  Rum,  whis- 
ky, and  brandy  were  imported  at  high  prices,  but  the  planter  soon 
began  to  distill  his  own  liquor.  Beer  was  imported  or  home-brewed. 
Apple  cider  and  persimmon  beer  were  country  favorites.  The  "sober 
liquors" — tea,  coffee,  and  cocoa — were  imported,  and  therefore  were 
luxuries.  Native  herb  teas  were  used  as  substitutes  by  some.  Both  the 
Indians  and  the  white  settlers  made  tea  from  the  yaupon,  a  holly  of  the 
eastern  section  of  the  State. 

Old  recipes  have  been  handed  down  by  word  of  mouth  and  in  a  few 
cookbooks,  but  few  people  today  have  the  knack  of  interpreting  direc- 
tions that  require  "a  handful  of  sugar,"  a  "pinch"  of  salt,  or  a  "dash" 
of  mustard.  Recently  when  an  old  Negro  cook  was  being  questioned 
on  a  recipe  she  said:  "Now  I  takes  a  double  han'ful  of  flour  and  lot  of 
butter;  and  if  I  has  a  dozen  eggs,  I  puts  them  in  . . ."  When  asked  to 
interpret  in  cupfuls,  she  said,  "Law,  Miss,  you  knows  I  don't  know 
nuthin'  'bout  dis  messin'  science!"  Nevertheless,  the  art  of  seasoning 
and  mixing  and  cooking  that  came  from  the  plantation  kitchen  has  left 
its  impress  on  the  food  customs  of  most  North  Carolina  homes. 

The  old  plantation  kitchen  is  gone,  but  the  iron  bake-oven,  the  kettle, 
and  the  frying  pan  still  play  an  important  part  in  cooking.  Many  small 
cabins  that  dot  the  cotton  and  tobacco  farms,  or  cling  to  the  mountain- 
sides, use  open  fireplaces  for  cooking  today.  The  hotels  and  restaurants 
of  the  towns  and  cities  now  use  little  of  the  traditional  North  Carolina 
ways  of  cooking,  but  in  the  small  homes  that  make  up  this  rural  State, 
and  in  the  "big  houses"  where  "Aunt  Nancy"  still  measures  by  hand 
and  taste,  the  art  of  cooking  famous  old  dishes  lives  on. 

Southern  cooks  have  a  reputation  for  frying  everything:  meats,  vege- 
tables, breads,  and  even  pies.  Fried  chicken  and  country  ham,  fried 
corn,  sweet  potatoes,  okra,  and  squash,  fried  corn  fritters,  and  fried 
half-moon  pies  (apple  and  peach)  are  food  experiences  never  to  be 
forgotten. 

Hot  biscuits,  fried  chicken,  and  gravy  have  followed  the  southerner 
wherever  he  has  gone.  Fried  chicken  in  North  Carolina  is  properly  a 
chicken  weighing  about  two  pounds,  unjointed,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  and  sizzled  in  hot  lard.  It  is  covered  or  put  in 
the  oven  during  part  of  the  process  to  make  it  tender,  but  it  has  a  crisp 
crust.  Biscuits  always  mean  hot  biscuits,  and  are  usually  made  with 
buttermilk,  soda,  and  lard.  They  are  lightly  kneaded  to  produce  a  fine 
texture,  rolled,  and  baked  in  a  hot  oven  until  brown,  then  split  open 
and  buttered  while  hot. 

Chicken  and  dressing  is  a  favorite  combination  for  Sunday  dinner. 
Fat  fowls,  always  called  "hens"  in  the  South,  are  baked  with  stuffing 


104  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

and  outside  dressing,  and  served  with  rich  giblet  gravy.  The  dressing 
consists  of  crumbled  cold  biscuits,  and  sometimes  corn  bread,  seasoned 
with  onions,  celery,  black  pepper,  and  a  little  sage,  and  made  into  a 
rich  mixture  with  chicken  broth  and  fat.  Chicken  salad,  chicken  pie, 
chicken  and  dumplings,  chicken  hash,  and  smothered  chicken  delight 
the  southern  palate. 

Every  North  Carolinian  thinks,  too,  that  country-cured  hams  are 
among  the  finest  foods.  They  are  fried  and  served  with  red  gravy;  or 
they  are  boiled  or  baked.  The  fat  pork  that  is  fried  or  used  for  seasoning 
boiled  vegetables  is  called  fat  back,  salt  pork,  side  meat,  middlin'  meat, 
or  sowbelly. 

Corn  bread  in  some  form  is  served  every  day  in  many  homes.  Corn 
meal  is  still  made  from  white  corn  and  generally  stone-ground.  Corn 
bread  frequently  is  the  plain  variety,  made  by  adding  water  or  milk 
to  the  meal  to  make  a  stiff  batter.  Salt  and  lard  are  usually  added, 
though  unsalted  bread  is  more  common  in  eastern  Carolina.  It  is  shaped 
into  pones  with  the  hands  and  cooked  in  the  oven.  Sometimes  it  is 
dropped  by  spoonfuls  on  a  hot  greased  hoe  or  griddle  and  cooked  on 
top  of  the  stove.  Corn  pones  are  not  cut,  but  are  broken  at  the  table  when 
served.  "Cracklin'  bread"  is  made  by  adding  cracklings  (fatty  left-overs 
in  the  lard  pot)  to  corn  pones.  It  is  commonly  made  on  the  farm  after 
"hog-killing"  time. 

Corn  bread  is  made  more  often  by  adding  buttermilk,  soda,  salt,  lard, 
and  eggs  to  the  corn  meal  to  make  a  batter.  This  is  poured  into  a  greased 
pan  or  skillet  and  cooked  in  the  oven  or  baked  in  muffin  or  corn-stick 
pans,  or  fried  on  top  of  the  stove  as  cakes.  When  cooked  in  the  pan,  this 
bread  is  also  called  egg  bread.  Batter  bread  or  spoon  bread  is  richer  in 
milk  and  eggs  than  other  corn  breads.  The  meal  is  scalded  or  cooked 
as  a  mush,  and  the  buttermilk,  soda,  and  eggs  are  then  added  to  make 
it  like  a  custard  or  souffle. 

Dear  to  the  heart  and  the  health  of  every  southerner  are  the  greens 
or  "sallet,"  turnip,  mustard,  poke,  and  water  cress,  or  "creases,"  according 
to  the  section  from  which  one  comes.  A  "mess  of  turnip  sallet"  boiled 
with  hog  jowl  or  fat  meat  is  a  common  dish.  It  is  always  considered  best 
when  cooked  in  an  iron  kettle.  The  "pot  likker,"  made  famous  in 
plantation  days,  is  the  juice  left  in  the  pot  after  the  greens  have  been 
removed.  Corn  meal  dumplings,  generally  called  "dodgers,"  are  some- 
times cooked  in  the  pot  liquor. 

Most  vegetables  are  seasoned  with  fat  meat,  especially  string  beans, 
black-eyed  peas,  cabbage,  and  greens;  and  most  of  them  are  cooked  a 
long  time.  In  some  sections  the  people  follow  the  custom  of  eating  peas 
and  hog  jowl  on  New  Year's  Day  to  insure  good  fortune  throughout  the 
year.  Cooking  two  or  more  vegetables  together  is  regularly  done.  Okra 


EATING     AND    DRINKING  IO5 

and  tomatoes  may  be  combined;  also  string  beans  and  corn.  Butter  beans 
and  corn  make  a  combination  called  succotash.  Black-eyed  peas  and 
rice  cooked  together  are  "hoppin'  John."  Beets  are  nearly  always  pickled 
or  served  with  vinegar.  Green  corn,  usually  field  corn,  is  used  frequently 
and  is  called  "roastin'  ears."  It  is  boiled  on  the  cob,  or  cut  and  scraped 
from  the  cob  and  stewed,  fried,  or  made  into  a  pudding. 

To  a  southerner,  potatoes  always  mean  sweet  potatoes,  for  the  white 
variety  is  usually  spoken  of  as  "Irish"  or  "white"  potatoes.  Many  prefer 
sweet  potatoes  baked  in  the  peeling  until  the  juice  oozes  out,  and  served 
with  butter.  Candied  sweet  potatoes  are  a  favorite  also.  The  raw  slices 
are  cooked  with  sugar,  butter,  and  water  in  a  deep  dish  until  tender  and 
candied.  They  are  also  fried,  and  made  into  pies  and  puddings. 

Sorghum  molasses,  as  the  southerner  calls  it,  is  an  amber-colored, 
thick  syrup  to  be  eaten  with  hot  biscuits  and  butter,  or  with  battercakes, 
or  used  in  making  desserts  and  candies.  The  mule-drawn  mill  still 
crushes  most  of  the  sorghum  cane  that  is  cut  from  the  small  patches. 
The  juice  is  boiled  down  and  stored  for  the  winter. 

Truly  native  are  the  black  walnuts,  hickory  nuts,  chinquapins,  and 
wild  grapes.  The  best  native  grapes  are  the  scuppernongs,  which  have 
a  thick  white  skin  and  delightful  fragrance  and  taste,  and  the  purple 
muscadine.  The  fall  of  the  year  brings  the  luscious  "  'simmon  pudding" 
and  locust  and  persimmon  beer.  Watermelons  and  muskmelons  are 
served  out-of-doors  as  well  as  at  the  table,  for  it  takes  a  large  slice  of 
either  to  satisfy  a  southerner. 

Barbecues,  so  popular  and  common  throughout  the  State,  are  a  relic 
of  the  old  open-fire  cooking.  Whole  pigs  and  often  lambs,  chickens, 
and  cuts  of  beef  are  cooked  over  live  coals.  They  are  basted  frequently 
with  a  special  highly  seasoned  sauce,  called  barbecue  sauce.  Brunswick 
stew,  often  cooked  out-of-doors  to  serve  community  groups,  is  a  thick 
stew  usually  made  of  chicken,  butter  beans,  onion,  corn,  and  tomatoes, 
and  seasoned  with  salt  pork.  Fish  muddle,  a  typical  eastern  Carolina 
dish,  is  made  by  putting  several  kinds  of  fish  in  a  kettle  with  layers 
of  onions  and  potatoes,  seasoning  with  fried  fat  meat,  adding  water  to 
cover,  and  cooking  to  a  stew.  "Brush  roasts,"  or  oysters  cooked  on  a  wire 
netting  over  an  open  wood  fire,  are  a  popular  out-of-doors  shore  meal. 
The  oysters  are  served  with  bowls  of  melted  butter,  chow-chow,  and 
plain  corn  bread. 

In  eastern  Carolina  the  proverbial  Sunday  breakfast  is  broiled  salt 
roe  herring  and  hot  biscuits.  In  the  spring  there  is  the  choice  roe  shad, 
and  in  summer  crabs  and  shrimps.  Salt  mullet  is  eaten  the  year  round. 
There  is  a  distinct  dividing  line  at  the  edge  of  the  Piedmont  where  the 
sale  of  mullet  ends  and  sale  of  salt  mackerel  begins.  In  Winston-Salem 
the  Moravian  Christmas  cookies,  old-fashioned  sugar  cake,  citron  pies, 


106  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

and  buns,  are  traditional.  In  the  northwest  counties  sourwood  honey 
is  a  prized  delicacy.  From  the  Brushy  Mountains  come  the  famed  Lim- 
bertwig  apples;  from  Waynesville,  the  cooperative-canned  wild  huckle- 
berries and  blackberries;  from  the  Sandhills,  peaches,  and  from  Tryon, 
grapes.  In  the  Cherokee  Indian  Reservation,  corn,  beans,  and  acorns 
are  still  made  into  bread  by  a  centuries-old  custom;  in  Valdese  another 
bread  of  a  distinctive  flavor  and  aroma  is  made  and  marketed  by  the 
Waldensians.  Around  Mount  Mitchell  deer  and  bear  meat  are  cured  for 
home  consumption,  while  in  Jones  and  Onslow  Counties  hams  are 
cured  for  the  market.  In  the  fall,  along  the  highways,  are  jugs  of  fresh 
apple  cider  for  sale,  and  deep  in  the  hills  the  famous  corn  liquor  is 
still  made. 

Thus  cookery  in  North  Carolina  is  as  varied  as  the  State  topography. 
Every  section — Coast,  Sandhills,  Piedmont,  and  Mountain — offers  a 
distinctive  food  to  lure  the  gourmet.  Yet  all  parts  of  the  State  share  in 
common  many  of  the  food  customs  of  the  old  South. 


THE       ARTS 


Literature 


ANY  ACCOUNT  of  the  literature  of  North  Carolina  must  prop- 
erly begin  with  a  recognition  of  two  descriptions  of  the  Colony 
b.  which  are  valuable  to  historian  and  naturalist :  A  New  Voyage 
to  Carolina,  later  issued  under  the  title  History  of  Carolina,  by  John 
Lawson,  "Gent.  Surveyor-General  of  North  Carolina,"  first  published 
in  London  in  1709;  and  the  Natural  History  of  North-Carolina  by 
John  Brickell,  a  physician  who  practiced  medicine  in  Edenton  about 
1731.  Lawson's  history  is  an  account  of  his  travels  in  Carolina  from 
1700  to  1708,  valuable  as  a  source  book  and  charming  in  style.  John 
Brickell's  natural  history  is  an  expansion  of  Lawson's  book  with  the 
addition  of  a  systematic  description  of  the  plants  and  animals  of  North 
Carolina. 

The  literature  of  ante-bellum  North  Carolina  was  in  no  way  unlike 
the  picture  of  southern  literature  at  that  time  as  the  historian  R.  D.  W. 
Connor  describes  it: 

In  the  ante-bellum  South,  the  professional  writer,  other  than  the  jour- 
nalist, was  looked  at  askance.  Men  wrote  history  from  patriotic  motives; 
they  delivered  addresses  to  grace  public  occasions;  and  they  sometimes 
"indited"  poems  sheepishly  to  "please  the  fair  sex."  But  all  this  was  the 
work  of  leisure;  few  wrote  for  a  living.  Of  pure  literature,  therefore,  the 
output  was  small  and  the  quality  low. 

The  most  influential  book  written  by  a  North  Carolinian  before  the 
War  between  the  States  was  Hinton  Rowan  Helper's  Impending  Crisis 
of  the  South,  published  in  1857  and  dedicated  to  the  nonslaveholding 
whites.  While  holding  no  brief  for  the  Negro,  Helper  attempted  to 
prove  by  comparison  of  statistics  the  superiority  of  free  States  over  slave 
States.  His  book  attracted  little  attention  until  Republicans  announced 
their  intention  of  printing  100,000  copies  of  a  Compendium  of  the  Im- 
pending Crisis  for  use  in  the  Presidential  campaign.  John  Brown's  raid 

107 


108  NORTH    CAROLINA:     GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

heightened  public  interest,  and  the  Compendium  (1859),  which  added 
to  the  original  book  a  chapter  of  extracts  from  the  writings  of  promi- 
nent abolitionists,  had  an  enormous  circulation  and  became  an  issue  of 
the  Presidential  campaign  of  i860.  The  vituperative  style  and  distorted 
statistics  of  the  Impending  Crisis  provoked  numerous  replies  in  the 
North  and  South,  and  in  North  Carolina  and  other  Southern  States  it 
was  a  felony  to  own  or  to  circulate  the  book. 

Among  early  Negro  writers  of  whom  there  is  record  was  David 
Walker,  born  in  Wilmington  in  1785,  author  of  Walter's  Appeal. 
which  has  been  called  "the  boldest  and  most  direct  appeal  for  freedom 
...  in  the  early  days  of  the  antislavery  movement."  George  Moses 
Horton,  born  in  1797  in  Northampton  County,  lived  most  of  his  life  in 
Chapel  Hill,  and  published  several  volumes  of  poetry. 

During  the  years  immediately  following  the  War  between  the  States, 
in  North  Carolina  as  in  other  Southern  States  "the  contest  which  was 
lost  on  the  battlefield  had  to  be  fought  again  with  pen  and  ink."  The 
Land  We  Love,  a  journal  devoted  to  history  of  the  war,  was  edited 
by  Gen.  D.  H.  Hill  at  Charlotte  from  1866  to  1869.  Our  Living  and  Our 
Dead,  edited  at  Raleigh  by  Stephen  Pool  and  Theodore  Kingsbury 
from  1874  to  1876,  was  concerned  with  North  Carolina's  part  in  the  war. 
The  South  Atlantic,  edited  in  Wilmington  by  Mrs.  Carrie  A.  Harris 
from  1877  to  1881,  was  a  monthly  magazine  of  literature,  art,  and 
science. 

Probably  the  best-known  book  produced  in  Reconstruction  days  in 
North  Carolina,  A  Fool's  Errand  (1879),  was  a  novel  written  by  Judge 
Albion  W.  Tourgee,  a  native  of  Ohio  who  settled  in  Greensboro  after 
the  War  between  the  States,  and  who  was  the  author  of  numerous  other 
novels,  pamphlets,  and  legal  works.  A  Fool's  Errand  has  its  setting  in 
North  Carolina  and  describes  the  plight  of  the  southern  Negro  during 
Reconstruction,  and  the  operations  of  the  Ku  Klux  Klan.  In  the  year 
of  its  publication  135,000  copies  of  the  book  were  sold. 

The  novels  of  the  late  19th  century  and  first  decade  of  the  20th 
century  followed  the  pattern  of  American  fiction  of  that  day.  Some, 
like  Robert  Ballard's  Myrtle  Lawn,  published  in  1880,  helped  to 
create  that  rosy  picture  of  the  sunny  South  that  is  now  seen  rarely 
outside  of  motion  pictures.  Ballard's  heroine  epitomizes  the  virtues 
ascribed  to  the  southern  girl  of  the  time:  "Jeannette  Evarts  was  a  pure 
child  of  the  heart;  she  never  read  much,  or  paled  the  freshening  color 
of  her  cheek  by  poring  over  musty  books,  endeavoring  to  solve  mys- 
terious problems,  or  gather  knowledge  from  profound  sciences."  One 
contemporary  critic  declared  that  in  Myrtle  Lawn  there  were  passages 
that  "Scott  or  Macaulay  might  have  dashed  off  in  a  happy  hour  of 
literary  excitement." 


THE    ARTS  IO9 

The  novels  of  Thomas  Dixon  were  more  lurid  and  melodramatic. 
The  Leopard's  Spots,  published  in  1903,  was  "A  Romance  of  the  White 
Man's  Burden — 1865-1900,"  and  was  dedicated  to  a  "sweet  voiced 
daughter  of  the  old-fashioned  South."  Dixon  is  best  known  for  his 
novels  of  Reconstruction  days,  which  in  1915  were  translated  into  the 
screen  play  the  Birth  of  a  Nation. 

Frances  Fisher  Tiernan,  of  Salisbury,  was  the  most  popular  North 
Carolina  novelist  of  her  day.  Writing  under  the  name  Christian  Reid 
she  produced  some  50  novels,  and  many  of  them,  including  her  first, 
Valerie  Aylmer,  published  in  1870,  were  widely  read.  Her  travel 
sketches,  published  in  1876  under  the  title  the  Land  of  the  S%y,  gave 
to  subsequent  writers  a  favorite  phrase  to  describe  the  mountains  of 
the  State. 

Two  books  describing  this  mountain  region  deserve  special  notice. 
Shepherd  M.  Dugger's  the  Balsam  Groves  of  Grandfather  Mountain, 
published  in  1892,  is  a  literary  curiosity  as  well  as  a  travel  book.  Our 
Southern  Highlanders  (1913)  by  Horace  Kephart  is  full  of  keen  anec- 
dote and  folklore.  More  than  any  other  book  it  has  drawn  attention  to 
the  beautiful  mountains  of  North  Carolina  and  to  the  mountaineer's 
manner  of  living. 

Perhaps  the  most  famous  literary  figure  North  Carolina  has  produced 
was  William  Sydney  Porter  (1862-1910)  who  was  born  and  grew  up 
in  Greensboro.  Under  the  pseudonym  of  O.  Henry  he  wrote  the  short 
stories  that  won  him  a  public  all  over  the  world.  Imagination,  bril- 
liant narrative  skill,  and  deep  human  sympathies  mark  all  of  Porter's 
work.  Wilbur  Daniel  Steele,  who  also  was  born  in  Greensboro,  has 
written  short  stories  that  rank  with  the  best  contemporary  American 
stories. 

In  the  field  of  fiction,  national  literature  has  lately  suffered  a  serious 
loss  in  the  death  of  the  North  Carolinian,  Thomas  Wolfe,  interna- 
tionally known  as  the  author  of  two  novels,  Loo\  Homeward  Angel 
(1929)  and  Of  Time  and  the  River  (1935).  For  one  leading  critic  "he 
bestrode  American  literature  like  a  colossus"  and  gave  "an  assured 
promise  that  he  would  encompass  the  whole  vocabulary  of  the  adven- 
turous, romantic,  impressionistic,  plastic  language  of  America." 

James  Boyd  has  written  two  distinguished  historical  novels,  Drums 
(1925)  and  Marching  On  (1927).  Jonathan  Daniels,  liberal  editor  of 
the  Raleigh  News  and  Observer,  is  the  author  of  Clash  of  Angels  (1930) 
and  A  Southerner  Discovers  the  South  (1938).  Under  the  name  "Field- 
ing Burke,"  the  poet  Olive  Tilford  Dargan  has  written  two  novels 
of  social  import  with  their  setting  in  the  State,  Call  Home  the  Heart 
(1932)  and  A  Stone  Came  Rolling  (1935).  William  T.  Polk  has  written 
fine  stories,  and  Marian  Sims  is  the  author  of  many  popular  magazine 


110  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

stories  as  well  as  the  novel,  Call  It  Freedom  (1937),  which  has  been  a 
"best  seller." 

John  Henry  Boner,  who  wrote  "Poe's  Cottage  at  Fordham,"  is  also 
known  for  such  fine  poems  as  "Hatteras"  and  "The  Light'ood  Fire."  The- 
ophilus  H.  Hill,  another  North  Carolina  poet,  is  best  remembered  for  his 
"Sunset"  and  "A  Ganges  Dream";  Henry  Jerome  Stockard,  for  "Unat- 
tained"  and  "Review  of  Our  Dead."  John  Charles  McNeill  showed 
authentic  talent  in  his  two  volumes  of  verse,  Songs  Merry  and  Sad, 
published  in  1906,  and  Lyrics  from  Cottonland  (1907)  collected  and 
published  after  his  death.  Among  contemporary  poets  are  Anne  Black- 
well  Payne,  who  has  published  the  volume  Released  (1930),  and  John 
Van  Alstyne  Weaver,  whose  highly  original  verse  in  the  vernacular 
includes  the  popular  collection  In  American  (1921).  Olive  Tilford 
Dargan,  a  native  Kentuckian  but  now  living  in  Asheville,  is  the  author 
of  the  Cycle's  Rim  (1916),  a  prize  volume  of  poetry,  and  numerous 
plays  and  poems  that  give  her  high  rank  in  American  poetry. 

Among  other  writers  of  note  who  are  associated  with  North  Carolina 
because  of  their  long  residence  in  the  State  are  Edwin  Bjorkman, 
author,  critic,  and  translator,  who  now  lives  in  Asheville;  Struthers 
Burt,  Katherine  Newlin  Burt,  and  Walter  Gilkyson,  of  Southern  Pines. 

The  deep  interest  of  North  Carolinians  in  their  own  State  and  in  the 
South  is  evident  in  oratory,  journalism,  historical  writings,  and  even 
casual  memoirs.  The  speeches  of  Archibald  D.  Murphey,  William  R. 
Davie,  Edwin  A.  Alderman,  Charles  B.  Aycock,  Thomas  L.  Clingman, 
and  Edward  Kidder  Graham  are  a  permanent  contribution  to  the  his- 
tory of  American  oratory.  Through  them  runs  a  strong  consciousness 
of  the  State  and  region.  The  same  consciousness  is  evident  in  the  letters 
of  Walter  Hines  Page,  the  editorials  of  Gerald  Johnson,  the  reporting 
of  W.  T.  Bost,  and  the  writing  of  the  columnist,  Nell  Battle  Lewis. 

Much  of  the  writing  of  State  history  has  been  done  by  patriots  rather 
than  by  trained  historians.  John  H.  Wheeler's  Reminiscences  (1884),  a 
repository  of  family  and  local  history,  and  his  Sketches  of  North  Caro- 
lina (1851),  though  marred  by  numerous  errors,  are  full  of  valuable 
material.  Hawk's  History  of  North  Carolina,  written  with  charm  of 
style  and  narrative  skill,  is  valuable  for  the  early  chapters  of  State  his- 
tory. The  History  of  North  Carolina  (1919)  by  R.  D.  W.  Connor,  W.  K. 
Boyd,  and  J.  G.  de  R.  Hamilton,  and  the  more  recent  North  Carolina 
(1925)  by  Connor  are  reliable  reference  works.  Samuel  A'C.  Ashe's 
History  of  North  Carolina  (1908-25)  is  another  standard  work,  accu- 
rate and  meticulous. 

Of  particular  interest  among  local  histories  are:  Kemp  P.  Battle's 
History  of  the  University  of  North  Carolina  (1907-12),  two  large  vol- 
umes crowded  with  an  amazing  collection  of  historical  information, 


THE     ARTS 


somewhat  contradictory  and  not  always  accurate;  James  Sprunt's 
Chronicles  of  the  Cape  Fear  River  (1914) ;  John  P.  Arthur's  Western- 
North  Carolina  (1914),  and  Forster  Alexander  Sondley's  two-volume 
History  of  Buncombe  County,  all  of  them  rich  in  anecdote,  legend,  and 
history. 

Several  historians  have  won  national  recognition;  R.  D.  W.  Connor 
is  (1939)  National  Archivist;  Holland  Thompson  is  noted  for  two  vol- 
umes in  the  Chronicles  of  America  series,  the  New  South  (1919)  and 
the  Age  of  Invention  (1921);  John  Spencer  Bassett  for  his  Federalist 
System  (1906),  A  Short  History  of  the  United  States  (revised  edition, 
•1934),  and  other  capable  historical  writings. 

North  Carolina  ranks  well  in  comparison  with  other  States  in  the 
possession  of  printed  collections  of  historical  documents.  The  Colonial 
Records  of  North  Carolina  (1886-90)  have  been  edited  by  Col.  William 
L.  Saunders,  and  the  State  Records  of  North  Carolina  (1 886-1 907)  by 
Judge  Walter  Clark.  Collections  of  letters,  diaries,  and  documents,  note- 
worthy among  them  the  Moravian  Records  (1922-30),  have  been  pub- 
lished by  the  North  Carolina  Historical  Commission.  Two  university 
presses,  one  at  the  University  of  North  Carolina  and  the  other  at  Duke, 
have  exercised  an  important  influence  in  stimulating  literary  effort  as 
well  as  scholarly  research  and  publication. 

North  Carolina  claims  many  writers  of  biography  who  have  won  a 
large  public.  Thomas  Hart  Benton  was  the  author  of  a  famous  political 
autobiography  Thirty  Years'  View  (1854-56).  Griffith  J.  McRee  wrote 
the  Life  and  Correspondence  of  James  Iredell  (1857-58),  which  con- 
tains valuable  historical  material.  Archibald  Henderson  is  the  author  of 
the  authoritative  biography  Bernard  Shaw — Playboy  and  Prophet 
(1932),  a  life  of  Mark  Twain  (191 1),  Washington's  Southern  Tour 
(1923),  and  some  20  works  on  drama,  history,  and  mathematics.  William 
E.  Dodd  edited  the  Riverside  History  of  the  United  States  (1915),  has 
contributed  a  standard  biography  in  Woodrow  Wilson  and  His  Wor\ 
(revised  edition,  1932),  and  is  the  author  of  Statesmen  of  the  Old  South 
(1911),  and  other  historical  narratives.  Robert  W.  Winston's  biographies 
of  Andrew  Johnson  (1928),  Robert  E.  Lee  (1934),  and  Jefferson  Davis 
(1930)  are  widely  known.  Gerald  Johnson,  now  on  the  staff  of  the 
Baltimore  Sun,  is  the  author  of  Andrew  Jackson,  an  Epic  in  Home- 
spun (1927)  and  Randolph  of  Roanoke  (1929).  Among  the  biographies 
of  Phillips  Russell  are  Benjamin  Franklin,  the  First  Civilized  American 
(1926),  and  John  Paul  Jones:  Man  of  Action  (1927). 


112  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

The  Theater 

The  first  tragedy  written  by  an  American  and  produced  on  the 
American  stage  was  the  Prince  of'Parthia,  by  Thomas  Godfrey,  a  Penn- 
sylvanian  living  at  Wilmington,  North  Carolina.  It  was  performed  at 
the  Southwark  Theater  in  Philadelphia,  April  24,  1767,  and  was  given 
a  production  in  1847  by  the  Wilmington  Thalian  Association,  one  of 
the  earliest  amateur  theatrical  societies  in  the  State.  Two  comedies 
written  by  North  Carolinians  during  this  early  period  were  Nolens 
Volens,  or  the  Biter  Bit,  by  Everard  Hall,  published  in  New  Bern  in 
1809,  and  Blac\beard,  by  Lemuel  Sawyer,  of  Camden  County,  a  promi- 
nent politician  of  the  State. 

Other  North  Carolinians  made  significant  contributions  to  the  19th 
century  theater.  John  Augustin  Daly  (183.8-99),  of  Plymouth,  was 
one  of  America's  greatest  theatrical  managers.  Henry  Churchill  De 
Mille  (1850-93),  of  Washington,  had  a  varied  stage  career  as  actor, 
teacher,  and  playwright,  and  worked  with  David  Belasco.  His  two  sons, 
William  De  Mille  and  Cecil  B.  De  Mille,  are  distinguished  directors  of 
motion  pictures  in  Hollywood. 

Many  amateur  theatrical  societies  flourished  in  North  Carolina  be- 
tween 1790  and  1850.  Most  important  of  these  was  the  Wilmington 
Thalian  Association,  which  still  exists  and  maintains  a  high  standard 
in  acting  and  production.  Others  were  the  Salisbury  Thespian  Society, 
the  Fayetteville  Thalian  Association,  the  Raleigh  Thespian  Society,  the 
Roscian  Society  of  Halifax,  the  Polemic  Society  of  Raleigh,  and  the 
Thespian  Society  of  New  Bern.  After  1850  interest  in  the  drama  de- 
clined and  did  not  revive  until  Frederick  H.  Koch  launched  the  Carolina 
Playmakers  in  1918. 

Up  to  that  time  North  Carolina  was  considered — in  theatrical  terms — 
"a  dead  State,"  to  which  it  did  not  pay  to  send  even  the  ubiquitous 
French  catalogue  of  plays  for  amateur  production.  Koch  came  from 
North  Dakota,  where  he  had  successfully  developed  the  North  Dakota 
Playmakers,  to  found  a  school  of  creative  writing  at  the  State  university. 
He  instituted  courses  in  playwriting  and  augmented  these  with  authors' 
readings,  tryouts,  and  productions.  The  success  of  the  Carolina  Play- 
makers is  due  in  part  to  Koch's  personality  and  his  genius  for  teaching, 
and  in  greater  part  to  the  philosophy  which  motivated  the  group.  Its 
aim  was  threefold:  "To  promote  and  encourage  dramatic  art,  espe- 
cially by  the  production  and  publishing  of  plays;  to  serve  as  an  experi- 
mental theater  for  young  playwrights  seeking  to  translate  into  fresh 
dramatic  forms  the  traditions  and  present-day  life  of  the  people;  and 
to  extend  its  influence  in  establishing:  a  native  theater  in  other  States." 


THE    ARTS  II3 

The  most  outstanding  among  the  playwrights  developed  by  the  Play- 
makers  is  Paul  Green,  who  won  the  Pulitzer  Prize  for  his  play  of  Negro 
life,  In  Abraham's  Bosom,  produced  by  the  Provincetown  Players  in 
1926.  Green  had  already  written  one-act  plays  for  the  Playmakers  but 
In  Abraham's  Bosom  was  his  first  full-length  play  and  his  first  excursion 
into  the  professional  theatrical  world.  "As  yet,"  wrote  the  dramatic 
critic,  Barrett  M.  Clark,  in  1926,  "we  have  no  genuine  folk  dramatists 
besides  Paul  Green."  Although  unschooled  in  the  professional  theater, 
his  plays  show  integrity  and  a  sensitive  feeling  for  theatrical  effective- 
ness which  he  undoubtedly  owes  largely  to  the  Playmakers.  Among  his 
later  plays  are  Tread  the  Green  Grass  (1929),  the  House  of  Connelly 
(1931),  Roll  Sweet  Chariot  (1935),  Johnny  Johnson  (1937),  and  the  Lost 
Colony  (1937).  The  last-named  play  was  presented  at  Roanoke  Island 
during  the  summers  of  1937  and  1938  by  the  Roanoke  Island  Commis- 
sion in  cooperation  with  the  North  Carolina  Historical  Commission, 
the  Federal  Theater  Project,  and  other  agencies  of  the  Works  Progress 
Administration. 

Thomas  C.  Wolfe,  who  later  won  fame  as  a  novelist,  wrote  his  first 
play  the  Return  of  Buc^  Gavin  in  Professor  Koch's  first  playwriting 
course  in  1918.  In  the  preface  to  this  play  Wolfe  wrote  "The  dramatic 
is  not  the  unusual.  It  is  happening  daily  in  our  lives." 

Since  1920  the  Playmakers  have  given  plays  in  all  parts  of  the  State 
and  have  carried  their  tours  far  afield  into  other  States.  Koch  tells  of 
a  production  in  a  North  Carolina  village  so  small  that  it  housed  barely 
a  dozen  families,  but  an  audience  of  700  trudged  through  a  blinding 
rain  from  the  outlying  farms,  to  see  the  play  given  in  the  new  consoli- 
dated school.  Another  production  was  the  first  play  the  town  had  seen 
in  six  years.  The  plays  have  been  published  in  several  volumes  under 
the  title  Carolina  Fol^  Plays. 

The  group  has  also  initiated  a  bureau  of  community  drama  as  part 
of  the  extension  division  of  the  university,  has  developed  an  extension 
library  containing  1,000  volumes  of  plays,  which  are  in  constant  use, 
and  sends  a  dramatic  director  to  any  community  needing  help  in  pro- 
ducing plays.  This  service  is  free.  An  annual  dramatic  festival  is  held  at 
Chapel  Hill,  in  which  schools,  colleges,  and  little  theater  groups  par- 
ticipate. 

In  addition  to  Green  and  Wolfe,  many  other  Carolina  dramatists 
have  been  influenced  by  the  Playmakers.  Among  them  are  Hatcher 
Hughes,  author  of  the  1922  Pulitzer  Prize  play  Hell-bent  fer  Heaven, 
and  the  folk  comedy  Ruint;  Lula  Vollmer,  author  of  the  war  play 
Sun-Up;  and  Anne  Preston  Bridgers,  who  wrote  Coquette  in  collabora- 
tion with  George  Abbott. 


114  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

Music 

True  folk  music  is  found  in  North  Carolina,  as  elsewhere,  among 
people  whose  lives  are  least  subject  to  changing  standards.  Isolation  and 
lack  of  printed  literature  have  helped  to  perpetuate  old  folk  music. 

Cecil  J.  Sharp,  English  folk-song  specialist,  published  in  1918  a  vol- 
ume of  122  ballads  and  their  variant  texts  and  tunes,  which  he  had  col- 
lected in  the  mountains  of  North  Carolina,  Virginia,  Tennessee,  and 
Kentucky.  He  cites  an  instance  in  which  one  woman  in  Hot  Springs 
sang  to  him  64  ballads  and  songs.  Arthur  Palmer  Hudson,  ballad  spe- 
cialist at  the  University  of  North  Carolina,  points  out  that  singing, 
although  more  common  in  the  mountains,  plays  an  equally  important 
part  in  the  lives  of  country  people  generally. 

In  rural  communities  of  North  Carolina,  the  old-time  singing  school 
and  singing  convention  survive,  although  many  changes  have  occurred 
in  the  type  and  form  of  music.  Of  late  the  old  five-note  notation  and 
shape-note  have  generally  been  supplanted  by  the  round-note  in  simple 
melodic  form.  During  the  autumn,  annual  singing  conventions  are  held 
throughout  the  State.  The  one  at  Steel  Creek  Church,  near  Charlotte,  is 
especially  noted,  and  is  attended  by  thousands  from  all  over  the  State 
and  from  adjoining  States.  The  convention  held  at  Wesley  Chapel, 
Catawba  County,  and  the  Mountain  Song  and  Dance  Festival  at  Ashe- 
ville  are  also  well  known. 

A  kind  of  music,  commonly  known  as  "hillbilly"  or  string  band 
music,  is  popular  in  most  small  agricultural  and  mill  villages.  Songs  and 
instrumental  selections,  both  old  and  new,  are  rendered  in  a  monotonous 
style,  varying  but  little  in  harmonization. 

On  the  Cherokee  Indian  Reservation  it  is  hard  to  differentiate  be- 
tween what  is  traditional,  and  what  is  new  and  synthetic.  Many  of  the 
old  songs  have  been  preserved  in  records,  but  some,  unfortunately, 
have  been  lost.  Ceremonial  and  medicine  songs,  belonging  to  men  now 
dead,  can  be  sung  with  reasonable  correctness  by  the  Indians  who  have 
heard  their  forebears  sing  them,  but  "civilized"  influences  with  the 
younger  Indians  favor  simple  hymn  melodies  and  popular  music,  not 
characteristically  Indian. 

The  songs  of  the  Negro  in  this  State,  as  in  other  Southern  States, 
may  be  divided  into  two  distinct  groups:  the  work  and  dance  songs, 
and  the  religious  songs,  or  spirituals.  The  work  song  is  heard  often, 
for  almost  any  group  working  by  hand  uses  rhythmic  singing  to  speed 
the  task  and  improvises  to  fit  the  occasion.  Contrary  to  general  opinion, 
these  secular  songs  of  the  Negro  are  more  numerous  and  more  nearly 
reflect  the  everyday  life  and  thought  of  the  people  than  do  the  spirituals. 


THE    ARTS  II5 

Howard  W.  Odum,  of  the  University  of  North  Carolina,  called  serious 
attention  to  these  songs  for  the  first  time  in  his  articles  on  Fol\-Songs 
and  FolkjPoetry  as  Found  in  the  Secular  Songs  of  Southern  Negroes, 
published  in  191 1.  Collections  of  Negro  songs  by  Odum,  Guy  B.  John- 
son, of  the  University  of  North  Carolina,  and  Newman  Ivey  White, 
of  Duke  University,  give  prominence  to  ballads,  blues,  and  work 
songs. 

The  Negro  spiritual  is  a  distinctive  contribution  to  American  music, 
of  universal  appeal  for  its  beauty,  emotional  depth,  and  sincerity.  Though 
it  derives  its  materials  from  the  religious  songs  of  the  white  man,  its 
special  character  is  an  original  contribution  of  the  Negro.  Technically, 
the  Negro  spiritual  achieves  its  individual  quality,  according  to  George 
Pullen  Jackson,  of  Vanderbilt  University,  by  modifications  in  pitch, 
compass,  scale  intervals,  and  rhythmic  trend.  Jackson  agrees  with  John- 
son's conclusion  that  the  spirituals  "are  selections  from  white  music, 
selections  influenced  by  the  Negro's  African  musical  heritage."  Negro 
colleges  and  universities  in  North  Carolina  have  advanced  in  musical 
training;  their  choirs  are  made  up  of  trained  voices  and  the  singing 
shows  a  knowledge  of  formal  music. 

The  Federal  Music  Project  of  the  Works  Progress  Administration  has 
several  teaching  units  in  the  State.  Its  symphony  orchestra  was  merged 
with  that  of  Virginia,  and  its  concert  tours  in  both  States  were  well 
attended. 

Composers  who  have  won  national  reputation  for  symphonic  treat- 
ment of  local  folk  music  are  Charles  Vardell,  of  Salem  College,  and 
Lamar  Stringfield,  who  won  the  Pulitzer  Prize  with  his  composition 
From  the  Southern  Mountains.  Rob  Roy  Peery,  of  Salisbury,  now  on 
the  staff  of  Etude,  has  won  many  prizes  in  music  and  has  published 
about  150  works. 


Painting  and  Sculpture 


During  the  Colonial  and  early  Republican  periods,  fine  art  in  North 
Carolina,  as  in  other  communities  without  large  cultural  centers,  con- 
sisted of  portraits  by  visiting  artists  and  a  few  works  purchased  outside 
the  State.  Paintings  by  such  representative  American  artists  as  Benjamin 
West,  Henry  Inman,  and  John  Neagle  found  their  way  into  private 
collections.  A  number  of  canvases  by  the  indefatigable  portraitist  of  the 
last  century,  Thomas  Sully,  remain  in  the  homes  of  North  Carolinians. 
A  collection  given  to  the  Wachovia  Museum  in  Winston-Salem  by  Miss 
Irene  Welfare  in  1904  contains  several  portraits  by  Sully,  including  the 
noted  and  much-sought  Self  Portrait.  In  St.  James  Church  at  Wilming- 


Il6  NORTH    CAROLINA:     GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

ton  is  an  early  work  of  unusual  historic  interest — an  anonymous  painting 
of  Christ  found  in  1748  on  a  Spanish  pirate  ship  seized  after  an  attack 
on  the  town  of  Brunswick. 

The  Englishman  William  Garle  Browne  lived  at  Raleigh  in  the 
middle  years  of  the  19th  century  and  painted  excellent  portraits 
of  many  notable  persons  of  that  day.  Eleven  of  his  works  are  in  the  Hall 
of  History  of  the  North  Carolina  Historical  Commission. 

The  first  North  Carolina  artist  of  national  reputation  was  Elliott 
Daingerfield.  Born  at  Harpers  Ferry,  Virginia,  in  1859,  he  was  brought 
in  infancy  to  North  Carolina,  where  he  spent  his  youth.  He  studied  at 
the  Art  Students'  League  in  New  York  City,  exhibited  there  at  the 
National  Academy,  and  also  lectured  and  wrote  on  art.  Works  by 
Daingerfield,  comprising  oils,  murals,  and  illustrations,  chiefly  of  re- 
ligious subjects  and  landscapes,  appear  in  well-known  galleries  and 
churches.  He  was  head  of  the  Permanent  Art  School  at  Blowing  Rock, 
where  he  resided  for  30  years  until  his  death  in  1932. 

A  contemporary  of  Daingerfield,  John  Elwood  Bundy,  woodland 
landscapist,  is  represented  in  leading  museums  in  the  United  States. 
Bundy  was  born  in  Guilford  County  in  1853,  but  left  the  State  at  an 
early  age,  and  his  career  is  not  conspicuously  identified  with  North 
Carolina. 

Until  recent  years  North  Carolina  had  no  publicly  owned  art  mu- 
seums or  galleries.  Since  the  1920's,  however,  there  has  been  a  significant 
increase  of  popular  interest  in  painting,  sculpture,  and  graphic  work. 
Groups  of  artists  and  art  sponsors  have  sprung  up  in  many  communi- 
ties, and  their  devoted  labors  have  begun  to  produce  gratifying  results. 
The  circulating  exhibitions  of  the  American  Federation  of  Arts  made 
paintings  available  to  many  areas  where  original  works  had  rarely  been 
seen  before.  The  North  Carolina  State  Art  Society  was  organized  in 
1923  to  promote  the  study  and  appreciation  of  art;  it  possesses  a  growing 
collection,  conducts  exhibitions  and  lectures,  and  calls  attention  to  the 
work  of  local  artists.  Other  notable  collections  in  North  Carolina  are 
the  Flora  Macdonald  College  collection  of  modern  European  and 
American  canvases  at  Red  Springs;  the  collection  at  Biltmore  House, 
home  of  George  W.  Vanderbilt  at  Asheville,  which  contains  sculptural 
decorations  by  Karl  Bitter;  and  the  growing  collection  of  modern  paint- 
ings in  the  Mint  Museum  of  Art  at  Charlotte.  Person  Hall  Gallery  in 
Chapel  Hill  has  a  current  program  of  exhibitions  under  the  direction 
of  the  university  art  department. 

A  stimulating  influence  has  been  created  by  the  establishment  of  com- 
munity art  centers  by  the  Federal  Art  Project.  The  first  of  these  spon- 
sored by  the  Federal  Art  Project  in  the  United  States  was  set  up  in 
Raleigh  in  1935.  It  emphasized  chiefly  its  art-teaching  program  and  has 


THE    ARTS  117 

since  succeeded  in  giving  instruction  to  all  children  in  grade  and  high 
schools  in  the  city.  It  has  also  sought  to  vitalize  the  local  folk  arts  and 
crafts  through  work  in  handweaving  and  the  reproduction  of  indigenous 
designs  in  textiles,  copper,  and  clay. 

Another  center,  at  Greensboro,  was  established  by  the  Federal  Art 
Project  in  July  1936.  Its  program  includes  art  classes,  exhibitions,  and 
community  work  in  the  arts  and  crafts.  An  extension  division  for 
Negroes  sponsored,  financed,  and  staffed  by  the  Negroes  themselves,  has 
already  received  much  popular  support.  To  bring  American  art  closer 
to  the  life  of  the  community,  the  center  has  circulated  representative 
works  of  art  produced  in  other  sections  of  the  country,  and  at  the  same 
time  has  brought  to  the  foreground  the  work  of  North  Carolina  artists. 
The  Greensboro  Federal  Art  Center  is  housed  in  the  permanent  Com- 
munity Center  made  possible  by  a  gift  of  $225,000  by  Mrs.  Lunsford 
Richardson  of  Greensboro,  and  her  daughters.  A  permanent  civic  or- 
ganization known  as  the  Greensboro  Art  Association  has  been  formed 
to  develop  the  varied  activities  of  the  center. 

The  Community  Art  Center  of  Asheville  conducts  classes  and  ex- 
hibits of  drawings  and  paintings,  pottery,  woodcarving,  copper,  pewter, 
and  silver  work,  and  fabrics.  The  city  of  Asheville  furnishes  a  gallery 
and  room  for  lectures,  and  regular  exhibitions  are  held  by  the  Asheville 
Art  Guild  and  the  Federal  Art  Project. 

Francis  Speight,  a  leading  landscapist,  and  Charles  Baskerville,  Jr., 
Donald  Mattison,  and  Mary  Tannahill  are  among  North  Carolina 
artists  who  have  gained  reputations  outside  the  State.  While  few  of 
these  painters  are  associated  with  North  Carolina  in  the  public  mind, 
a  considerable  number  of  artists  who  have  remained  at  home,  or  who 
have  come  from  other  parts  of  the  country  to  reside  in  North  Carolina, 
are  today  furthering  the  local  cultural  development,  and  are  also  receiv- 
ing attention  in  wider  art  circles.  Clement  Strudwick  of  Hillsboro 
studied  in  New  York  City,  has  exhibited  extensively  in  North  Carolina 
as  well  as  in  Washington  and  New  York,  and  is  well  known  for  his 
portraits  of  prominent  North  Carolinians.  Other  artists  working  in  the 
State  at  present  are  Gene  Erwin  of  Durham  and  Chapel  Hill,  State 
Director  of  the  Federal  Art  Project  (1939);  Mary  de  Berniere  Graves, 
Chapel  Hill  portrait  painter;  James  A.  McLean,  director  of  the  Raleigh 
Community  Art  Center  and  former  director  of  the  Southern  School  of 
Creative  Arts;  Katherine  Morris  of  Raleigh,  formerly  associated  with 
the  Southern  School  and  at  present  assistant  director  at  the  Raleigh  Art 
Center;  Isabel  Bo  wen  Henderson,  Raleigh  portraitist,  and  Mabel  Pugh 
and  Mary  Tillery,  both  of  Raleigh. 

A  number  of  mural  decorations  have  been  executed  in  North  Carolina 
by  native  and  visiting  artists.  At  the  Rockingham  post  office  and  court- 


Il8  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

house  Edward  Laning  has  executed,  under  commission  of  the  Treasury 
Department  Art  Projects,  a  mural  with  the  subject:  the  Post  as  a  Con- 
necting Thread  in  Human  Life;  and  at  the  Wilmington  post  office 
different  historical  and  contemporary  themes  relating  to  Wilmington 
and  its  surroundings  have  been  depicted  in  eight  reliefs  by  Thomas  Lo 
Medico,  also  working  under  the  auspices  of  the  Federal  Treasury  De- 
partment. James  McLean  has  done  murals  for  the  State  College,  Raleigh, 
and  David  Silvette  for  the  court  room  in  the  Federal  building  at  New 
Bern;  Clifford  Addams  has  decorated  the  council  chamber  of  the  city 
hall  at  Asheville;  and  Ada  Allen  and  Gene  Noxon  have  prepared  murals 
for  Salem  College,  Winston-Salem. 

Outstanding  possessions  of  the  State  in  sculpture,  besides  the  work  of 
Karl  Bitter  mentioned  above,  are  the  memorial  to  the  women  of  the 
Confederacy  by  Augustus  Lukeman,  the  statue  of  Lawson  Wyatt  by 
Gutzon  Borglum,  the  bronze  statue  of  Washington  by  Houdon,  the 
statue  of  Charles  D.  Mclver  (a  replica  of  which  is  on  the  campus  of 
Woman's  College,  Greensboro)  by  F.  Wellington  Ruckstuhl,  all  in  the 
Capitol  Square  at  Raleigh;  the  busts  of  John  A.  Morehead,  William  A. 
Graham,  and  Matt  W.  Ransom  by  Ruckstuhl  in  the  rotunda  of  the 
capitol;  the  sarcophagi  of  James  B.,  Benjamin  N.,  and  Washington  Duke 
by  Charles  Keck  at  Duke  University;  the  Motherhood  group  and  Roc/{ 
of  Ages  of  James  Novelli  at  Durham;  the  George  Davis  monument  at 
Wilmington,  and  the  statue  of  Gen.  Nathanael  Greene  on  Guilford 
battlefield  by  Francis  Herman  Packer. 

The  camera  studies  of  Bayard  Wootten  and  Charles  A.  Farrell  have 
been  used  as  book  illustrations  and  have  been  exhibited  in  leading 
American  cities.  These  camera  artists  have  recorded  life  in  the  State, 
and  their  collections  include  character  studies,  landscapes,  crop  cycles, 
and  such  picturesque  subjects  as  fishing  on  the  North  Carolina  coast. 
George  Masa,  who  died  in  1933,  made  notable  photographs  of  mountain 
scenery  in  western  North  Carolina.  James  Dougherty,  born  in  Ashe- 
ville, is  a  graphic  artist  and  illustrator  of  literary  works. 


Handicrafts 

Colonial  handicrafts  have  survived  in  North  Carolina  despite  the 
flood  of  machine-made  products  from  the  factories.  Isolation,  poverty, 
the  influence  of  tradition,  and  some  steady  local  markets  have  served  to 
keep  alive  these  native  skills.  In  the  mountain  counties  women  have 
often  continued  to  weave  and  sometimes  to  spin  because  factory  prod- 
ucts were  not  easily  available.  In  some  families  the  tradition  of  weaving 
or  making  pottery  products  has  been  strong  enough  in  itself  to  preserve 


THEARTS  119 

the  art  for  generations.  The  presence  of  raw  materials  and  a  local  market 
have  often  encouraged  the  making  of  such  articles  as  simple  furniture 
and  brooms. 

Weaving,  although  widely  practiced  in  the  mountains  and  occa- 
sionally in  the  countryside,  is  now  largely  done  on  new  looms  and 
the  products  are  designed  for  sale.  However,  some  fine  old  family  looms 
still  exist  after  generations  of  use.  Such  a  loom,  more  than  160  years 
old,  was  still  being  operated  (1938)  by  Mrs.  John  Seagle  in  her  shop 
near  Lincolnton.  At  Valle  Crucis  in  the  Finley  Mast  weaving  cabin, 
built  in  1812,  are  two  family  looms  still  used  for  weaving,  and  a  com- 
plete man's  suit  of  blue  and  white  homespun,  made  early  in  the  19th 
century  by  Mr.  Mast's  great-grandmother. 

The  woolen  coverlet  is  the  favorite  product  of  the  mountain  looms. 
Patterns  are  handed  down  from  generation  to  generation  under  the 
same  names;  the  Saint  Anne's  Robe,  Bony  Part's  March,  Whig  Rose, 
and  many  others  are  known  to  North  Carolina  weavers  but  are  not 
peculiar  to  this  State  alone.  Today  many  articles  besides  coverlets  are 
woven  from  wool,  silk,  linen,  and  cotton  directly  for  markets.  Blankets, 
draperies,  table  covers,  luncheon  sets,  shawls  and  scarves,  baby  robes, 
handbags,  and  many  kinds  of  cloth  noted  for  fine  quality  of  workman- 
ship and  dyes  come  from  the  modern  mountain  looms. 

In  the  making  of  baskets  and  brooms  the  mountaineer  craftsman 
excels.  A  variety  of  baskets  are  made  in  native  shapes,  and  in  designs 
suggested  by  demands  outside  the  mountains.  White  oak  splits  are  the 
common  material  although  willow,  honeysuckle,  hickory,  the  inner 
bark  of  pine,  cornstalks,  cane,  rye,  and  wheat  straw  are  also  used. 
Usually  mountain  baskets  are  left  white,  but  they  are  sometimes  colored 
with  native  dyes  of  walnut,  butternut,  or  hickory  nut. 

Brooms  are  made  from  the  broom  corn  that  grows  in  nearly  all  parts 
of  the  mountains  and  must  be  cut  at  a  certain  stage  of  growth  and 
cured  by  the  broom  makers.  Variety  in  brooms  comes  from  the  methods 
of  tying  the  corn,  the  different  colors  used  in  dyeing,  and  the  type  of 
handle  attached.  The  handles  are  cut  out  with  a  knife  and  the  straw  is 
tied  and  attached  by  hand.  No  mountain  home  is  without  some  of  these 
brooms,  and  there  is  a  wide  commercial  demand  for  the  smaller  types 
such  as  hearth  and  whisk  brooms. 

The  few  simple  types  of  mountain-made  furniture,  chairs,  stools,  and 
benches,  are  comfortable  and  durable.  Made  from  maple,  hickory, 
and  oak,  and  sometimes  walnut,  the  chairs  have  seats  of  hickory  bark, 
white  oak  splits,  corn  husks,  or  reeds.  They  are  fashioned  with  in- 
genuity and  without  the  use  of  pegs  or  nails.  Frames  are  made  of  green 
wood  and  rungs  and  seats  of  dry  wood  so  that  as  the  green  wood  dries 
it  shrinks  and  the  frames  tighten  their  hold  on  the  rungs  and  slats. 


120  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

The  chair  maker  does  his  work  usually  under  an  open  shed,  and  his 
only  tools  are  a  drawing  knife,  a  pocket  knife,  and  sometimes  a  hand 
lathe. 

Most  of  the  potteries  of  North  Carolina  are  in  the  Piedmont  section, 
although  there  are  several  in  the  mountains.  In  the  18th  century  a 
colony  of  potters  from  Staffordshire,  England,  settled  in  the  Piedmont 
at  the  juncture  of  Moore,  Randolph,  and  Montgomery  Counties.  Here 
their  descendants  continue  to  fashion  churns,  crocks,  bowls,  and  jugs, 
grinding  the  local  clay  by  mule  power  and  turning  it  on  the  old- 
fashioned  kick  wheel.  Best  known  of  the  potteries  of  this  region  is 
Jugtown  Pottery,  near  Steeds,  fostered  and  directed  by  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Jacques  Busbee.  In  addition  to  preserving  the  native  traditional  de- 
signs, the  Jugtown  Pottery  has  produced  many  special  forms  inspired 
by  old  Chinese  pottery.  At  Cole's  Pottery,  near  Seagrove,  where  the 
pieces  are  also  made  by  hand,  some  of  the  most  beautiful  glazes  in  the 
South  have  been  developed.  Hilton  Pottery  in  Catawba  County  has  also 
produced  special  glazes,  particularly  combinations  of  gray  and  blue. 
Two  craftsmen  of  the  Mountain  Region  who  have  achieved  distinction 
as  potters  are  W.  B.  Stephens  of  Pisgah  Forest  Pottery  near  Asheville, 
and  the  late  O.  L.  Bachelder  of  the  Omar  Khayyam  Art  Pottery,  near 
Candler.  The  Germans  in  Catawba,  and  the  Moravians  in  Forsyth 
County  have  produced  much  good  pottery,  contributing  the  utensils 
that  are  so  much  used  in  rural  North  Carolina  homes. 

The  making  of  rugs,  hooked,  braided,  and  woven,  is  today  providing 
the  mountain  woman  with  a  new  source  of  income.  Most  of  the  rugs 
displayed  along  mountain  highways  are  hooked  with  a  needle  provided 
by  the  mail-order  house;  they  are  of  rags  bought  by  the  pound 
and  colored  with  cheap  dyes,  and  follow  ready-made  patterns.  Here 
and  there  the  rugs  displayed  show  the  careful  workmanship  and 
originality  of  design  that  the  schools  and  handicraft  guilds  have 
encouraged. 

In  the  mountains,  especially,  much  ingenious  metal  work  and  wood 
carving  are  done.  Confiscated  copper  liquor  stills  are  sometimes  trans- 
formed into  trays,  teapots,  and  novelties.  Andirons,  lanterns,  and  book 
ends  are  made  from  iron.  Native  woods  are  used  to  make  trays,  spoons, 
brackets,  and  many  kinds  of  toys.  In  the  toy  shop  at  Tryon,  children  do 
most  of  the  designing  and  carving. 

The  Southern  Highland  Handicraft  Guild,  organized  at  Penland  in 
1928,  has  been  a  great  stimulus  to  mountain  handicrafts  by  bringing 
craftsmen  together,  setting  high  standards  of  workmanship,  and  open- 
ing new  markets.  The  guild  is  composed  of  members  of  most  of  the 
important  handicraft  centers  and  schools  in  the  mountain  area  and 
now  operates  successfully  its  own  salesroom  in  Asheville.  Among  the 


THE    ARTS  121 


schools  now  teaching  handicrafts  are  the  John  C.  Campbell  Folk  School, 
Brasstown;  the  Appalachian  Mountain  Center,  Penland;  Markle  Handi- 
crafts and  Community  Center,  Higgins;  Crossnore  School,  Crossnore; 
Dorland  Bell  School,  Hot  Springs,  and  the  Asheville  Normal  and 
Teachers  College,  Asheville. 


ARCHITECTURE 


THE  STORY  of  architecture  in  North  Carolina  is  the  story  of 
architecture  in  America,  with  local  variations  to  suit  the  place  and 
the  people.  During  the  years  of  striving  for  a  foothold  on  the  land, 
the  Colonial  builders  modified  the  types  they  had  known  at  home  to 
suit  the  conditions  of  a  new  country.  With  increasing  prosperity,  cul- 
tivated amateurs  essayed  strict  imitation  of  English  Georgian  examples 
on  a  small  scale.  The  consciousness  of  independent  nationality  after  the 
Revolution  turned  the  thoughts  of  individual  architects  to  the  styles  of 
the  ancient  republics  for  architectural  expression. 

Uncertainty  as  to  the  appearance  of  the  earliest  makeshift  of  structures 
of  the  16th  century  at  Roanoke  Island  is  only  equaled  by  the  haze  of 
doubt  obscuring  the  17th-century  scene.  However,  since  the  inhospitable 
coast  line  compelled  settlers  to  enter  the  region  about  Albemarle  Sound 
by  way  of  Virginia,  their  dwellings  may  well  have  resembled  closely 
the  structures  of  the  Tidewater.  An  unnamed  and  undated  brick  house 
on  Harveys  Neck  in  Perquimans  County  would  be  quite  at  home  along 
the  lower  James  River,  laid  up  as  it  is  in  Flemish  bond  with  a  pattern 
of  light  headers  outlining  the  steep  gable  on  the  face  of  the  sturdy  end 
chimneys. 

Eighteenth-century  accounts  seem  to  bear  out  this  supposition.  In 
describing  domestic  architecture  of  the  Albemarle  settlements  about 
1731,  Dr.  John  Brickell  of  Edenton  wrote:  "The  most  substantial  Plant- 
ers generally  use  Brick  and  Lime,  which  is  made  of  Oyster-shells  . . .  ; 
the  meaner  sort  erect  with  Timber,  the  outside  with  Clap-Boards,  the 
Roofs  of  both  Sorts  of  Houses  are  made  with  Shingles,  and  they  gen- 
erally have  Sash  Windows,  and  affect  large  and  decent  Rooms  with 
good  Closets. . . ." 

Whether  of  brick  or  timber,  such  Colonial  houses  doubtless  followed 
the  pattern  of  the  English  medieval  cottage.  In  plan  this  usually  con- 
tained two  rooms,  with  perhaps  a  passage  between;  in  elevation  the 
single  story  was  surmounted  by  a  steeply  pitched  gable  roof,  sometimes 
with  dormer  windows,  and  flanked  by  massive  chimneys  at  either  end. 
Extant  examples  indicate  that  the  gambrel  roof  was  sometimes  sub- 


ARCHITECTURE  I23 

stituted  for  the  gable;  in  either  case,  shingles  replaced  the  English 
thatch.  Similar  structures  of  one  or  two  stories  continued  to  be  built 
within  the  State  far  down  into  the  19th  century,  as  the  frontier  moved 
westward  into  the  Mountain  Region.  A  weatherboarded  frame  house, 
transitional  between  this  type  and  the  more  elaborate  houses  of  the 
subsequent  Georgian  Colonial  style,  is  the  Cupola  House  in  Edenton, 
1758,  which  through  some  chance  preserved  the  medieval  European 
tradition  of  the  overhanging  second  story. 

Wood  was  the  material  used  first  for  churches  as  well  as  for  dwell- 
ings; but  judging  from  the  harassed  letters  of  the  Rev.  John  Urmston, 
written  in  171 1  to  his  superiors  of  the  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the 
Gospel,  London,  a  church  in  any  material  was  a  matter  of  supreme 
indifference  to  his  carefree  parishioners.  This  negligence  must  have 
given  way  to  a  degree  of  pious  industry  by  1734,  when  the  tiny  brick 
church  of  St.  Thomas  was  erected  at  Bath  in  Beaufort  Precinct.  Almost 
domestic  in  scale,  it  is  quite  frankly  a  house  of  God,  without  pretense 
to  tower  or  apse. 

The  brick  church  of  St.  Paul's  in  Edenton,  designed  to  replace  certain 
wooden  structures  deplored  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Urmston,  was  begun  in 
1736,  but  the  interior  woodwork  was  not  finished  until  1774.  The  38 
years  required  to  complete  this  second-oldest  church  now  standing  in 
North  Carolina  were  fertile  ones  for  English  architecture  at  home  and 
in  the  Colonies,  and  the  changes  which  they  brought  are  reflected  in  this 
single  building.  Almost  as  severely  simple  on  the  exterior  as  the  St. 
Thomas  Church  at  Bath,  except  for  the  square  tower  with  octagonal 
spire  that  marks  the  entrance,  the  interior  detail  of  St.  Paul's  fol- 
lows closely  the  decorative  formulas  laid  down  in  the  books  of  ar- 
chitectural engravings  that  were  currently  spreading  abroad  the  fashion 
of  English  Renaissance  elegance,  known  in  this  country  as  Georgian 
Colonial. 

In  the  1750's  came  the  accelerated  movement  into  North  Carolina  of 
peoples  of  racial  stocks  other  than  English.  Several  thousand  Scottish 
Highlanders  took  up  lands  in  the  vicinity  of  what  is  now  Fayetteville, 
and  Presbyterian  Scots  from  the  lowlands  as  well  as  Scotch-Irish 
also  arrived  in  great  numbers.  Like  the  Lutheran,  Reformed,  and  Mo- 
ravian Germans  and  the  English  Quakers,  the  Scotch-Irish  settled  gen- 
erally in  the  foothill  regions  of  central  North  Carolina.  Instead  of  the 
large  plantations  of  the  English  coastal  settlements,  smaller  farms  were 
usually  cultivated  by  these  Piedmont  settlers.  Racial  diversity,  dissimi- 
larity of  religion,  geographical  and  economic  differences,  and  uncertain 
means  of  communication  tended  to  develop  contrasting  customs  and 
opinions  in  the  two  regions;  and  their  buildings  were  at  first  as  unlike 
as  their  points  of  view. 


124  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

Perhaps  the  typical  Scotch  house  of  the  late  18th  century  was  one 
described  as  having  "one  room,  one  door,  and  one  window  closed  with 
a  wooden  shutter  . . .  built  of  hewn  logs,  the  interstices  stopped  with 
clay,  the  roof  covered  with  riven  boards."  Later  examples  of  the  type 
still  dot  the  countryside,  despite  the  fact  that  frame  houses  soon  super- 
seded the  original  log  ones. 

The  Moravians,  too,  used  logs,  which  they  sometimes  covered  with 
weatherboarding  after  the  fashion  of  frame  houses.  Such  was  the  con- 
struction of  the  north  end  of  the  Moravian  Brothers  House  in  Salem, 
erected  in  1768-69  to  house  the  unmarried  men  and  boys  of  the  com- 
munity. The  steep  roof  with  dormer  windows,  the  entrance  hoods,  and 
the  unsymmetrical  placing  of  doors  and  windows  illustrate  the  persist- 
ence of  medieval  tradition  in  German  examples  at  a  time  when  the 
formal  symmetry  of  the  Georgian  Colonial  style  was  already  well  estab- 
lished in  the  English  coastal  settlements.  The  south  end  of  the  house, 
added  in  1786,  was  of  brick,  as  were  all  the  important  buildings  in  the 
later  history  of  the  Colony. 

Dunn's  Mountain  granite  was  sometimes  used  by  the  Germans  who 
settled  south  of  the  Moravians,  but  log  houses,  such  as  the  Matthias 
Barringer  House,  Catawba  County,  were  more  common  in  the  18th 
century.  Continental  tradition  seems  to  have  become  less  and  less  marked 
in  the  structures  of  the  Piedmont  settlers,  and  the  last  quarter  of  the 
century  witnessed  the  merging  of  the  German  with  the  English  archi- 
tectural styles. 

Notice  has  already  been  taken  of  a  suggestion  of  Georgian  Colonial 
formality  and  elegance  in  the  Cupola  House  and  in  St.  Paul's  at  Eden- 
ton.  It  is  to  that  town,  therefore,  that  one  may  best  return  for  illustration 
of  the  further  development  of  this  consciously  elaborate  fashion  which 
began  to  supplant  the  unaffected  early  American  style  in  the  English 
coastal  settlements  after  about  1750. 

The  Chowan  County  Courthouse  at  Edenton,  built  possibly  by  Gil- 
bert Leigh  in  1767,  is  not  unlike  the  typical  Georgian  structures  in  Wil- 
liamsburg, Philadelphia,  or  at  Harvard  College.  Built  of  brick  with 
white  trim,  it  rises  in  two  stories,  differentiated  by  a  string  course,  to  a 
level  cornice  beneath  the  hipped  roof.  Two  inconspicuous  flues  replace 
the  massive  end  chimneys  of  the  Colonial  buildings.  The  entrance 
pavilion  is  accented  with  a  pedimented  doorway  framed  by  orders,  and 
crowned  by  a  graceful  cupola  in  the  center  of  the  symmetrical  composi- 
tion. Features  such  as  these  represent  some  of  the  universal  characteris- 
tics imparted  to  all  Georgian  Colonial  buildings  by  individual  study 
of  architectural  books  from  England.  Local  stylistic  differences  prevail- 
ing through  the  leaner  years  of  the  early  settlements  now  melted  away 
in  the  comfortable  warmth  of  increasing  economic  stability,  and  the 


INTERIOR,    SMALLWOOD-WARD    HOUSE  SPIRAL  STAIRWAY,   POWELL   HOUSE, 

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ARCHITECTURE  125 

urbane  graciousness  of  the  new  vogue  reflected  the  growing  maturity  of 
the  Thirteen  Colonies. 

Quite  the  most  ambitious  residence  built  in  North  Carolina  prior 
to  the  War  of  Independence  was  Tryon  Palace  in  New  Bern,  begun  the 
same  year  as  the  Chowan  County  Courthouse  and  finished  three  years 
later.  Governor  Tryon  wrote  of  its  construction  in  1767:  "I  have  em- 
ployed Mr.  Hawks,  who  came  with  me  out  of  England  to  super- 
intend this  work  in  all  its  branches.  He  goes  soon  to  Philadelphia  to 
hire  able  workmen,  as  the  province  affords  none  capable  of  such  an 
undertaking."  In  1798  the  house  was  accidentally  fired,  and  the  main 
block  together  with  the  east  wing  destroyed;  the  remaining  west  wing 
has  been  remodeled  and  covered  with  stucco.  Until  the  discovery  in 
1939  of  John  Hawks'  drawings  for  the  house,  an  engraving  made  from 
them  in  the  1850's  offered  the  sole  visual  evidence  on  which  to  judge 
the  magnificence  of  this  mansion,  unique  in  the  Province. 

When  George  Washington  visited  New  Bern  in  1791  he  is  said  to 
have  been  entertained  at  the  John  Wright  Stanly  House,  now  the  public 
library.  The  building  has  many  points  of  comparison  with  his  own 
residence  on  the  Potomac,  despite  the  absence  of  a  long  colonnade. 
That  edifices  on  such  a  grand  scale  were  scarcely  typical  of  pre-Revolu- 
tionary  towns  in  North  Carolina  is  apparent  from  the  accounts  of  con- 
temporary travelers.  In  1787  William  Attmore,  a  Philadelphia  merchant, 
described  the  prosperous  town  of  New  Bern  thus :  ". .  .  about  500  or  600 
Houses  . . .  are  built  mostly  of  Wood  . . .  many  .  . .  are  large  and  com- 
modious, some  are  one  story  and  some  are  two  Stories  high There 

are  to  many  of  the  houses  Balconies  or  Piazzas  in  front  and  sometimes 
back  of  the  house  this  Method  of  Building  is  found  convenient  on 
account  of  the  great  Summer  Heats  here. . . ." 

One  of  the  houses  which  this  traveler  may  have  seen  is  the  so-called 
Louisiana  House  in  New  Bern,  according  to  tradition  built  in  1776.  In 
Wilmington  a  white  weatherboarded  house  of  similar  design,  which 
served  as  headquarters  for  Earl  Cornwallis  in  April  1781,  has  been  res- 
cued recently  from  possible  destruction,  through  the  efforts  of  the  North 
Carolina  Society  of  Colonial  Dames.  It  was  built  on  the  site  of  a  town 
jail  which  was  shown  on  a  map  dated  1769,  hence  must  have  been 
erected  in  the  1770's.  Both  this  and  the  Louisiana  House  in  New  Bern 
have  gable  rather  than  hip  roofs,  and  their  two-story  porches  are  sup- 
ported by  superimposed  orders.  This  type  was  found  to  be  so  well 
adapted  to  the  climate,  and  capable  of  so  many  variations  in  detail  to 
accord  with  the  whims  of  fashion,  that  the  two-story  weatherboarded 
house,  with  two  rooms  on  each  floor,  with  gable  roof,  and  with  or  with- 
out porches,  became  fairly  standardized  throughout  the  State  well  into 
the  19th  century. 


126  NORTH    CAROLINA:    GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

Of  the  18th-century  examples,  several  such  town  houses  are  still  in 
daily  use  in  coastal  communities,  but  many  of  the  isolated  plantation 
mansions  have  fallen  victim  to  fire  and  decay.  A  map  of  the  lower  Cape 
Fear  River  for  the  period  from  1725  to  1760  shows  the  location  of  over 
60  such  estates,  many  with  plantation  houses,  in  an  area  about  40  miles 
long  by  15  miles  wide  along  the  river  and  its  branches.  The  present 
house  on  Orton  Plantation  in  Brunswick  County  gives  some  idea  of 
the  scale  of  the  vanished  buildings,  even  though  the  exterior  detail  of 
the  18th-century  structure  has  been  altered  to  conform  with  the  ideals 
of  the  Greek  Revival,  and  wings  have  been  added  since  the  beginning 
of  the  present  century. 

After  the  break  from  England  there  arose  a  period  of  self-conscious 
nationalism  in  which  the  Thirteen  Colonies  came  of  age  architecturally 
as  well  as  politically.  English  influence  continued  but  it  was  mingled 
with  a  cultural  strain  from  France.  The  two  infant  democracies  on 
either  side  of  the  Atlantic  were  both  to  seek  inspiration,  for  govern- 
mental and  architectural  theory  alike,  in  the  traditions  of  the  republics 
of  Greece  and  Rome.  Appropriately  enough  the  individual  designer 
was  to  attain  prominence.  In  the  United  States  one  of  the  first  to  revive 
classic  forms  was  Thomas  Jefferson,  who  personally  had  examined 
Roman  remains  in  France  and  accordingly  in  1785  designed  the  capitol 
in  Richmond  on  a  temple  plan. 

The  architectural  principles  of  the  Sage  of  Monticello,  based  on  French 
orderliness  coupled  with  Roman  grandeur  as  interpreted  through  the 
books  of  Palladio,  were  maintained  in  North  Carolina  when  the  new 
capital  city  of  Raleigh  was  laid  out  in  1792.  The  plan  was  smaller  than 
L'Enfant's  scheme  of  1791  for  the  National  Capital  at  Washington,  but 
equally  monumental  in  concept.  At  the  center  was  to  be  a  statehouse 
in  Union  Square  (later  Capitol  Square),  approached  from  each  side  by 
a  99-foot  avenue  named  for  one  of  the  assembly  towns;  and  in  each 
of  the  four  quarters  parks  were  to  be  left  open.  The  statehouse,  of 
brick,  built  by  Rhody  Atkins  between  1792  and  1794,  was  burned  in 
1831;  and  destroyed  with  it  was  the  statue  of  Washington  by  Canova, 
which  had  but  recently  arrived  from  Italy. 

With  a  seat  of  government  provided  for,  it  was  only  fitting  that  build- 
ings should  be  erected  for  the  education  of  future  legislators  in  a  democ- 
racy. The  University  of  North  Carolina  had  already  been  chartered  in 
1789.  Accordingly  the  cornerstone  of  Old  East  Building  in  Chapel 
Hill  was  laid  in  1793,  while  the  statehouse  was  still  in  process  of  con- 
struction. This  building,  erected  by  James  Patterson  between  1793  and 
1795  and  enlarged  by  Alexander  Jackson  Davis  in  1848,  may  be  more 
notable  for  sentimental  associations  than  for  architectural  distinction, 
yet  it  was  eminently  suited  to  its  function  of  housing  students. 


ARCHITECTURE  \T] 

The  first  trustee  of  the  university  was  a  notable  public  servant,  Samuel 
Johnston,  of  Edenton.  Shortly  after  1800  he  built  on  his  estate  overlook- 
ing Edenton  Bay  the  house  which  he  called  Hayes  (see  tour  ia),  after 
the  seat  of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh.  This  mansion  preserves  a  number  of 
Georgian  Colonial  features  that  might  occasion  its  being  labeled  post- 
Colonial,  as  for  example  the  two  outlying  wings  connected  with  the 
main  house,  the  hip  roof,  and  the  spacious  cupola;  but  the  two-story 
colonnade  on  the  bay  side  shows  the  influence  of  Jefferson's  Classical 
Revival.  The  doorway  on  the  town  side,  unlike  the  Georgian  Colonial 
pedimented  openings,  is  flanked  by  side  lights  and  surmounted  by  a 
segmental  fanlight.  Sheltering  the  doorway  is  a  graceful  portico  of 
slender  columns  with  delicate  iron  railings  wrought  in  elliptical  de- 
signs. It  is  semicircular  in  plan  after  the  manner  of  Samuel  Mclntire's 
contemporary  mansions  in  Salem,  Mass.  Both  were  derived  from  the 
fashionable  work  of  the  Adam  brothers  in  18th-century  England. 

The  extent  of  New  England  influence  in  North  Carolina  coastal 
architecture  is  undetermined  as  yet.  Since  sea  trade  between  the  two 
regions  was  a  commonplace  in  the  18th  century  it  would  have  been 
strange  had  there  not  been  some  interchange  of  architectural  ideas.  The 
Masonic  Opera  House  in  New  Bern,  built  in  1808,  exhibits  forms  char- 
acteristic of  the  work  of  the  gifted  gentleman-amateur  of  Boston,  Charles 
Bulfinch;  as,  for  example,  the  shallow  elliptical  surface  arch  in  the  stuc- 
coed brick  wall,  the  corner  quoins,  and  the  prominent  voussoirs  over 
the  flat-arched  windows.  Such  similarities  might  be  accounted  for  by 
the  fact  that  the  details  for  the  design  of  this  structure  were  perhaps 
taken  from  one  of  Asher  Benjamin's  volumes  of  architectural  details. 
Such  could  scarcely  be  the  case  with  the  white  weatherboarded  First 
Presbyterian  Church  built  by  Uriah  Sandy  from  1819  to  1822.  It  re- 
sembles closely  a  New  England  meetinghouse  with  its  fanlighted  door, 
graceful  Ionic  portico,  and  square  tower  diminishing  in  stages  to  an 
octagonal  cupola. 

The  detail  of  several  early  19th-century  New  Bern  houses  likewise 
is  strongly  reminiscent  of  that  in  the  Massachusetts  seaport  towns,  and 
suggests  in  its  fine  scale  and  craftsmanship  the  work  of  ships'  carpen- 
ters. Typical  is  the  brick  Smallwood-Ward  House,  with  the  entrance 
at  one  side  of  the  facade,  and  with  beautifully  executed  wood  carving 
in  its  slender  pedimented  porticoes,  interior  cornices,  and  mantels. 

It  is  possible  that  land  travel  also  may  have  had  some  influence  upon 
architecture  in  the  State;  for  example,  in  the  style  of  the  plantation 
houses  in  the  region  close  to  the  main  stagecoach  route,  which  ran  from 
Washington  through  Richmond  and  Petersburg  to  Raleigh,  and  thence 
south  to  New  Orleans.  Such  a  premise  might  account  for  the  slender 
detail  of  the  early  19th-century  houses  in  Warren  and  Halifax  Counties, 


128  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

which  are  fast  disappearing  through  fire  and  neglect.  Two  of  the  finest, 
of  which  little  remain,  were  built  by  one  Mr.  Burgess:  Montmorenci 
near  Warrenton,  and  Prospect  Hill  near  Airlie.  The  latter,  erected  be- 
tween 1825  and  1828  on  an  ashlar  basement,  was  a  two-story  weather- 
boarded  mansion  with  gable  roof,  end  chimneys,  and  an  unusual  corner 
loggia  on  the  garden  side.  Dependencies  were  located  some  distance 
from  the  house.  The  entrance  doorway  was  framed  by  semicircular 
fanlights  and  side  lights,  and  sheltered  by  a  slender  pedimented  portico, 
and  the  first-floor  windows  on  either  side  of  the  doorway  were  triple, 
with  elaborate  crowning  motifs  in  carved  woodwork.  Within  were  a 
curved  staircase,  delicately  carved  wainscot  and  cornices,  mantels  with 
the  Adam  ellipse,  and  plaster  ceiling  medallions.  Other  contemporary 
houses  in  the  region,  such  as  Burnside  near  Williamsboro,  exhibit  all 
manner  of  combinations  of  channeling,  reeding,  and  interlacing,  com- 
bined with  stars,  ovals,  urns,  classic  figures,  and  delicate  festoons,  all 
characteristic  of  the  period.  Cabinetmakers  of  German  descent  used 
similar  forms  to  some  extent  in  Rowan  and  Cabarrus  Counties. 

Traditionally,  due  to  trade  and  cultural  ties,  southern  mansions  have 
owed  their  detail  to  individual  interpretations  of  English  rather  than 
American  carpenters'  books.  Whatever  the  source  of  Mr.  Burgess'  in- 
spiration, it  appears  to  have  been  quite  different  from  that  pervading 
the  plantation  houses  in  some  other  sections  of  the  State.  The  Leigh 
Mansion,  begun  on  Durants  Neck  near  Hertford  in  the  same  year  as 
Prospect  Hill  (1825),  is  one  of  several  which  retain  that  feature  so  suit- 
able to  the  climate,  the  double  porch  fore  and  aft.  These  Classic  Revival 
examples  are  easily  distinguishable  from  their  Georgian  Colonial  prede- 
cessors by  the  great  colonnades,  running  through  two  stories,  which 
they  carry  in  place  of  the  small  superimposed  orders  of  the  earlier  time. 
Such  houses  have  often  been  styled  Southern  Colonial,  although  erected 
after  the  Revolution  and  the  War  of  1812,  but  they  belong  rather  to  the 
revival  of  Roman  forms  by  Thomas  Jefferson. 

The  logical  expansion  of  Jefferson's  theory  to  include  the  ancient 
democracy  of  Greece  received  additional  impetus  in  this  country  by 
reason  of  the  modern  Greek  war  for  independence  waged  in  the  1820's. 
Towns  such  as  Old  Sparta  in  Edgecombe  County  were  given  Greek 
names,  and  Bracebridge  Hall  near  Old  Sparta  gives  visible  testimony 
to  the  prevailing  fervor  of  the  Greek  Revival.  No  longer  is  the  pedi- 
mented porch  carried  on  tall  slender  supports  but  on  four  sturdy  Doric 
columns  without  bases,  and  characteristic  Greek  fretwork  replaces  the 
delicate  detail  of  the  preceding  years. 

The  destruction  by  fire  of  the  original  statehouse  in  Raleigh  necessi- 
tated the  erection,  between  1833  and  1840,  of  a  new  and  more  monu- 
mental building  under  the  successive  superintendence  of  W.  S.  Drum- 


ARCHITECTURE  129 

mond  and  Col.  Thomas  Bragg.  The  most  prominent  features  of  the 
structure,  the  porticoes  to  east  and  west  of  the  cross-shaped  plan,  again 
reflect  the  spirit  of  the  times  in  their  strict  Greek  Doric  order.  The 
nationally  known  architect,  Ithiel  Town,  then  at  work  on  the  custom- 
house in  New  York,  was  called  into  consultation  on  the  building.  Upon 
his  recommendation  the  commissioners  engaged  as  superintendent  of 
construction  a  young  Scotsman,  David  Paton,  who  had  assisted  the 
eminent  London  architect,  Sir  John  Soane,  designer  of  the  Bank  of 
England.  Paton  made  some  229  drawings  of  the  building  and  its  details 
before  his  departure  for  Scotland  in  1840.  With  the  exception  of  the 
door  and  window  casings,  the  capitol  is  executed  throughout  in  cream- 
colored  granite. 

After  Ithiel  Town's  death  in  1844,  his  partner,  Alexander  Jackson 
Davis,  was  responsible  for  some  work  in  Raleigh  and  Davidson.  As 
already  noted,  he  remodeled  Old  East  and  other  buildings  at  the  Uni- 
versity of  North  Carolina  in  Chapel  Hill,  and  designed  the  old  library, 
Smith  Hall,  which  is  now  the  Playmakers  Theater.  The  strict  temple 
form  was  adopted  for  this  little  building,  but  the  pseudo-Corinthian 
capitals  of  the  pedimented  portico  display  an  individual  touch  in  the 
substitution  of  ears  of  corn  and  other  grains  for  the  traditional  acanthus 
leaves.  A  similar  departure  from  usage  had  been  made  at  the  National 
Capitol  during  the  early  years  of  the  century  by  Benjamin  Henry 
Latrobe,  who  is  credited  by  some  with  the  design  for  Ingleside  in  Lin- 
coln County. 

Latrobe's  pupil,  Robert  Mills,  of  Charleston  and  Washington,  is  re- 
puted to  have  designed  the  Rowan  County  Courthouse  in  Salisbury,  but 
no  connection  has  yet  been  established.  An  equally  fine  example  of  the 
small  public  building  in  the  Greek  Revival  style  is  the  Orange  County 
Courthouse  in  Hillsboro,  erected  in  1846  by  John  Berry,  whose  name  is 
also  connected  with  Wake  Forest  College.  Two  contemporary  build- 
ings, constructed  under  the  supervision  of  the  United  States  Treasury 
Department,  are  of  special  interest:  the  Branch  Mint  at  Charlotte, 
1845-46,  now  reconstructed  on  a  different  site  as  the  Mint  Museum;  and 
the  old  customhouse  at  Wilmington,  1844-46. 

One  of  the  most  striking  houses  in  Wilmington  is  the  wooden  Bellamy 
Mansion,  designed  by  James  F.  Post  and  built  between  1857  and  1859 
by  Negro  artisans.  It  is  approached  by  a  broad  flight  of  steps  and  is 
surrounded  on  three  sides  by  a  tall  Corinthian  peristyle  after  the  fashion 
of  mansions  in  the  deep  South.  Another  residence  on  a  grand  scale  is 
the  Belo  House  in  Salem,  built  in  1849.  Aside  from  the  Corinthian 
porticoes,  the  distinguishing  features  of  the  painted  brick  house  are  its 
ornamental  balconies  combining  wrought  and  cast  iron,  and  the  cast- 
iron  lion  and  dogs  that  stand  guard  at  the  entrance.  This  decorative  use 


I3O  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL    BACKGROUND 

of  metal  during  the  first  60  years  of  the  19th  century  gained  favor  with 
the  development  of  the  product,  until  the  mechanical  era  reduced  the 
practice  to  vulgarity  through  interminable  repetition. 

The  Roman  and  Greek  phases  of  classicism  in  American  architecture 
were  essentially  a  romantic  return  to  the  past,  but  the  most  obvious 
romantic  trend  developed  around  a  literary  interest  in  the  medieval 
picturesqueness  of  Gothic  forms  as  opposed  to  classic  symmetry.  The 
Gothic  Revival  involved  a  superficial  adoption  of  such  characteristic 
details  as  the  pointed  arch,  buttresses,  and  castellated  battlements,  rather 
than  the  accurate  interpretation  of  Gothic  principles  of  construction. 
That  American  cabinetmakers'  books,  printed  even  before  1800,  gave 
directions  for  finishing  such  detail  may  explain  the  presence  of  two 
pilasters,  paneled  with  Gothic  pointed  arches,  which  were  incorporated 
with  otherwise  classic  detail  in  the  afore -mentioned  Prospect  Hill,  built 
in  1825-28.  David  Paton  indulged  in  similar  combinations  for  the  third 
story  of  the  capitol,  1833-40;  and  the  Old  Market  House  in  Fayetteville, 
remodeled  in  1837,  also  combines  Gothic  arches  with  classic  detail. 

Probably  the  most  noteworthy  building  in  the  State  done  wholly  in 
the  Gothic  Revival  style  is  Christ  Church  in  Raleigh  with  its  slender 
stone  spire;  it  was  erected  between  1848  and  1853.  Richard  Upjohn, 
architect  of  Trinity  Church  in  New  York,  based  the  design  upon  the 
principles  of  the  English  medieval  parish  churches  that  he  had  known 
before  his  emigration  to  America. 

During  the  later  years  of  the  Greek  and  Gothic  Revivals  came  other 
movements,  of  which  one  new  current  is  discernible  in  the  church  of 
St.  John's-in-the-Wilderness  at  Flat  Rock,  built  in  1833-36,  remodeled 
in  1854.  In  plan  and  in  its  tower  buttresses  it  belongs  to  the  Gothic 
Revival,  but  its  round-arched  windows,  and  the  wide  eaves  of  its  tower 
roof  are  features  of  the  Early  Renaissance  in  Italy. 

Perhaps  the  South  was  fortunate  in  that  the  lean  years  of  Reconstruc- 
tion coincided  with  a  period  of  dubious  architectural  taste,  for  it  was  in 
some  measure  spared  the  plague  of  ugly  buildings  that  sprang  up  in 
Europe  and  America  alike,  from  the  1860's  through  the  90's;  spared, 
that  is,  except  for  the  array  of  ponderous  post  offices  through  which  a 
paternal  government  proclaimed  its  renewed  stability. 

Henry  Hobson  Richardson,  noted  for  his  revival  of  Romanesque  de- 
sign, probably  had  no  immediate  connection  with  North  Carolina,  but 
imitation  of  his  use  of  rugged  masonry,  towers,  and  broad  low  arches 
is  noted  in  a  number  of  public  buildings,  such  as  the  old  post  office  at 
Wilmington,  1889-91,  in  Carr  Building  at  the  university,  and  in  a  few 
houses. 

A  later  phase  of  the  Gothic  Revival,  often  called  Victorian  Gothic, 
also  had  its  protagonists  in  North  Carolina.  Old  Memorial  Hall  at  the 


ARCHITECTURE  I3I 

university,  built  by  Samuel  Sloan  about  1885,  embodied  this  movement, 
as  do  many  heavy  brick  churches  standing  throughout  the  State.  The 
exterior  of  the  brick  Governor's  Mansion  in  Raleigh  (1884),  with  its 
many  gables,  patterned  roof,  paneled  chimneys,  and  lathe-turned 
porches,  illustrates  the  features  of  the  fashionable  "Queen  Anne"  style 
of  the  '70's.  Many  lesser  buildings  are  dated  unmistakably  by  an 
assortment  or  combination  of  such  features.  Even  Egyptian  details  ap- 
peared, as  in  the  cornice  of  the  old  memorial  arches  at  Guilford  Battle- 
ground (one  of  which  has  been  restored  on  the  Davidson  College 
campus),  and  Moorish  details  as  in  the  Jewish  synagogue  in  Wilming- 
ton. But  most  popular  of  all  for  courthouses,  city  halls,  hotels,  banks, 
theaters,  and  other  public  buildings  was  the  ornate  and  showy  late 
French  Renaissance,  with  its  mansard  roof  and  baroque  detail.  The 
Second  Empire  phase  appeared  in  somewhat  restrained  form  in  the  old 
post  office  in  Raleigh,  1874-79,  an<^  the  Flemish  version,  with  stepped 
gables  and  scroll  ornaments,  in  the  old  city  hall  in  Charlotte,  built 
before  1895. 

The  interminable  revivals  of  misunderstood  historic  styles  were  pro- 
longed by  the  material  expansion  of  the  industrial  era.  One  of  the  few 
voices  crying  aloud  in  this  architectural  wilderness  was  that  of  Richard 
Morris  Hunt,  the  first  American  to  be  trained  in  architecture  at  the 
Ecole  des  Beaux-Arts  in  Paris.  North  Carolina  has  a  distinguished 
example  of  his  work  in  Biltmore  House,  erected  between  1890  and  1895 
on  the  George  W.  Vanderbilt  estate  outside  of  Asheville.  Biltmore  House 
is  a  veritable  French  chateau  of  the  period  of  Francis  I;  but  in  Hunt's 
intelligent  handling  of  the  mass  of  the  building  and  of  the  beautifully 
executed  details,  there  is  revealed  an  understanding  of  the  spirit  that 
produced  the  original  style,  instead  of  the  copybook  attitude  of  most 
of  his  contemporaries. 

This  understanding  of  the  structure  beneath  surface  ornament  has 
guided  the  worthiest  successors  of  Hunt  who  have  worked  in  the  his- 
toric styles  during  the  present  century,  of  whom  but  a  few  may  be  men- 
tioned. Rafael  Guastavino,  a  Spaniard  who  developed  a  light  acoustical 
tile  much  used  for  vaults  even  today,  is  said  to  have  been  inspired  by  the 
Chapel  of  Nuestra  Sefiora  de  los  Desamparados  in  Valencia  when  he 
created  the  St.  Lawrence  Roman  Catholic  Church  in  Asheville.  The 
main  altar  and  Chapel  of  Our  Lady  have  been  attributed  to  Stanford 
White  of  the  famous  architectural  firm  of  McKim,  Mead,  and  White. 
Alfred  Charles  Bossom,  a  Fellow  of  the  Royal  Institute  of  British  Archi- 
tects, adapted  Greek  forms  to  modern  needs  in  his  Charlotte  National 
Bank;  and  in  the  Fidelity  Bank  of  Durham,  which  he  designed  in 
1914-15,  Mr.  Bossom  used  to  good  effect  the  characteristic  forms  of  the 
Early  Renaissance  in  Italy. 


I32  NORTH     CAROLINA:     GENERAL     BACKGROUND 

Charlotte  and  Durham  are  two  among  the  cities  of  the  State  which 
have  developed  systematic  plans  for  further  expansion,  closely  related 
to  architectural  practice.  In  191 1,  Aymar  Embury  II  had  an  opportunity 
seldom  afforded  to  city  planners  and  architects — the  creation  of  a  new 
settlement.  In  the  Sandhills  region  of  the  State,  the  lumber  and  fruit 
center  of  Aberdeen,  and  the  resort  towns  of  Pinehurst  and  Southern 
Pines,  this  architect  is  known  not  so  much  as  a  designer  of  country 
homes,  on  which  he  has  written  books,  nor  as  the  architectural  member 
of  the  Triborough  Bridge  Authority  in  New  York,  but  as  a  man  who 
can  turn  his  hand  with  equal  success  to  inns  and  country  clubs,  office 
buildings  and  stores,  theaters  and  schools.  Since  the  section  possessed  no 
particular  architectural  tradition  of  its  own,  Mr.  Embury  employed  in 
many  of  the  buildings,  such  as  that  for  the  Mid-Pines  Country  Club,  a 
modern  derivative  of  the  Georgian  Colonial  and  early  Classical  Revival 
styles. 

In  Pinehurst  also  is  the  Village  Chapel,  designed  by  Hobart  Upjohn, 
the  grandson  of  the  architect  of  old  Christ  Church  in  Raleigh,  whose 
wide  practice  in  the  State  has  included  churches,  parish  houses,  and 
other  buildings  in  many  towns.  Some  of  his  work  continues  the  stylistic 
traditions  of  the  coastal  region;  some  represents  a  modern  rendering  of 
the  Gothic  style. 

Similar  styles  have  been  reinterpreted  by  Horace  Trumbauer  on  the 
two  campuses  of  Duke  University  in  Durham.  The  earlier  of  the  two 
groups,  completed  in  1928,  is  the  Woman's  College,  built  on  the  site 
occupied  by  Trinity  College  until  1924.  Its  open  quadrangle  and  rotunda 
are  reminiscent  of  Thomas  Jefferson's  University  of  Virginia;  but  the 
individual  buildings  are  put  to  different  uses  and  bear  a  stronger  stamp 
of  the  Georgian  Colonial  style  than  do  those  of  Jefferson's  "academical 
village."  The  later  group  of  buildings,  situated  about  two  miles  dis- 
tant from  the  Woman's  College,  includes  Trinity  College  for  under- 
graduate men,  the  graduate  and  professional  schools,  the  hospital,  and 
the  dominating  chapel,  which  was  the  first  of  the  buildings  to  be  de- 
signed (1923)  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  graduate  dormitory  (1938), 
the  last  to  be  finished  (1932).  The  Woman's  College  follows  the  archi- 
tectural traditions  of  the  South;  but  the  buildings  of  the  university 
proper  are  designed  in  the  traditional  Tudor  Gothic  style  of  Oxford  and 
Cambridge.  Their  fidelity  to  this  style  recalls  the  intellectual  heritage 
of  these  older  universities. 

The  first  thought  of  the  earliest  builders  in  North  Carolina  was  to 
utilize  known  methods  and  the  materials  at  hand.  So  it  has  been  with 
succeeding  generations.  But  the  intervening  years  have  brought  a  need 
for  new  and  complex  structures  such  as  railroad  stations,  hospitals  and 
prisons,  libraries  and  social  centers,  hotels  and  office  buildings,  in  addi- 


ARCHITECTURE  I33 

tion  to  the  older  and  simpler  needs  for  shelter  and  worship,  govern- 
ment and  education.  The  architect  of  today  must  be  able  to  solve  the 
problems  involved  in  all  these  varied  types  of  building,  and  he  has  at 
his  disposal  all  the  mechanical  and  decorative  resources  that  scientific 
invention  has  provided  in  steel  and  its  alloys,  in  concrete,  in  glass,  and 
in  electrical  illumination,  heating,  cooling,  and  humidifying. 

When  confronted  with  new  problems  and  new  materials,  architects 
who  had  been  designing  in  terms  of  the  whole  range  of  historic  orna- 
ment attempted  quite  naturally  to  clothe  their  steel  skeletons  in  the 
garments  of  the  past.  Of  the  many  stylistic  garments  tried,  perhaps  the 
most  suitable  was  the  Gothic,  which  had  developed  as  an  expression  of 
the  desire  for  height.  The  towering  Jackson  Building,  built  in  Asheville 
in  1924  by  Ronald  Greene,  was  designed  in  that  spirit.  But  to  many 
architects  it  seemed  that  the  new  materials  should  express,  not  the  forms 
originated  for  heavy  stone  construction,  but  forms  derived  from  their 
own  especial  properties:  the  lightness  and  potential  height  of  steel  and 
reinforced  concrete  construction;  the  textures  and  decorative  possibili- 
ties of  concrete,  of  glass,  and  of  metal  alloys;  and  the  effective  values 
of  modern  lighting. 

These  are  some  of  the  means  by  which  architects  today  are  working 
toward  a  new  style  designed  to  utilize  new  materials  in  meeting  new 
needs.  Some  call  it  Functionalism,  which  in  its  logical  clarity  and  com- 
plete honesty  it  may  well  be.  Two  commercial  structures  in  the  State 
that  represent  worthy  efforts  in  this  direction  are  the  R.  J.  Reynolds 
Building,  erected  in  Winston-Salem  in  1927  by  Shreve,  Lamb,  and 
Harmon;  and  the  One  Eleven  Corcoran  Street  Building  in  Durham, 
completed  in  1937  by  George  Watts  Carr  of  Durham  in  consultation 
with  the  same  firm.  Nevertheless,  a  better  correlation  of  materials  and 
human  needs  remains  a  challenging  problem  for  the  architects  of  the 
future. 


Part  II 


CITIES       AND       TOWNS 


ASHEVILLE 


Railroad  Stations:  Depot  St.  (Asheville)  and  Biltmore  Village  for  Southern  Ry. 

Bi:s  Station:   Union   Bus  Terminal,   99    Patton   Ave.,    for   Greyhound,    Smoky   Mountain 

Trailways,  Queen  City  Coach  Co.,  East  Tennessee  and  Western  North  Carolina,  Carolina 

Scenic  Coach  Lines,  and  Carolina  Stages. 
Suburban  Buses:  Leave  Pack  Sq. 

City  Buses:  Meet  at  Pack  Sq.  and  Pritchard  Park,  fare  6$. 
Sightseeing  Buses:   Operated   by   private   concerns   to   Great   Smoky   Mountains    National 

Park,  Mount  Pisgah,  and  other  scenic  points;  inquire  Chamber  of  Commerce. 
Airport:  Asheville-Hendersonville,   11  m.  S.  on  US  25  to  Calvary  Church;  L.   2  m.;   no 

scheduled  service. 
Taxis:  25$  and  up. 

Traffic  Regulations:  Turns  prohibited  at  intersections  indicated  by  signs  on  traffic  lights. 
Accommodations:   19  hotels   (2  for  Negroes);   boarding  houses,  tourist  inns,  and  tourist 

camps;  no  seasonal  rates. 
Information  Service:  Chamber  of  Commerce,  19  O.  Henry  Ave.;  Carolina  Motor  Club, 

16  S.  Pack  Sq. 
Radio  Station:  WWNC  (570  kc). 
Theaters  and  Motion  Picture  Houses:  City  Auditorium,  Haywood  St.  at  head  of  Flint  St. 

(under  construction   1939);    Lee    H.    Edwards  Auditorium,    McDowell    St.,    occasional 

productions,  concerts,  etc.;  8  motion  picture  houses   (2  for  Negroes). 
Swimming:  Recreation  Park,  5  m.  E.  on  Swannanoa  Rd.;  Aston  Park,  S.  French  Broad 

Ave.   and  Hilliard  St.;  Horney  Heights  Park,  Haywood  Rd.,   West  Asheville;  Beaver 

Lake,  Merrimon  Ave. 
Golf:  Asheville  Country  Club,  off  Kimberly  Ave.,  18  holes,  greens  fee,  $1.50;  Biltmore 

Forest  Country  Club,    18   holes,   greens  fee,   $2;   Beaver  Lake  Golf  Course,    18   holes, 

greens  fee,  $1;  Municipal  Golf  Course,  5  m.  E.  on  Swannanoa  Rd.,    18  holes,  greens 

fee,  50</-;  Malvern  Hills  Golf  Course,  Haywood  Rd.,  9  holes,  greens  fee,  50^. 
Tennis:  Free  courts,  Aston  Park,  Montford  Park,  Horney  Heights  Park,  inquire  City  Hall. 
Baseball:  McCormick   Field,   Biltmore  Ave.   at  Valley   St.,  leased  to   Asheville   Tourists, 

Piedmont  League  (Class  B). 
Football:  Memorial  Stadium,  off  Biltmore  Ave.  near  McCormick  Field. 
Riding:  Grove  Park  Riding  Academy,  off  Macon  Ave.;  Biltmore  Forest  Riding  Academy, 

Biltmore  Forest. 
Shooting:  Skeet  and  Gun  Club  range,  Rhododendron  Park,  inquire  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce. 
Camping:  Free  camping  sites  in  National  Forests,   inquire  U.  S.  Forest  Service,  Arcade 

Bldg.,  or  Chamber  of  Commerce. 
Hunting  and  Fishing:  Inquire  Chamber  of  Commerce. 

Annual  Events:  Land  of  the  Sky  Open  Golf  Tournament,  late  Mar.  or  early  Apr.;  Sunrise 
Service,  Easter  Sunday;  Women's  Spring  Golf  Tournament,  3rd  week  Apr.;  Rhodo- 
dendron Festival,  2nd  or  3rd  week  June;  North  Carolina  Open  Tennis  Tournament, 
2nd  week  July;  Women's  Invitation  Golf  Tournament,  4th  week  July;  Mountain  Folk 
and  Dance  Festival,  Aug.;  Men's  Invitation  Golf  Tournament,  2nd  week  Aug.  and 
3rd  week  Aug.;  Negro  Fair,  Sept.;  Kennel  Club  Show,  Oct.;  Big  Game  Hunts  in 
Pisgah  Forest,  Nov.  and  Dec. 

ASHEVILLE  (2,216  alt.,  50,193  pop.),  is  situated  on  a  plateau  ringed  by 
ranges  of  the  Blue  Ridge.  It  is  the  economic  and  cultural  center  of  18  moun- 

i37 


I38  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

tain  counties  in  western  North  Carolina  and  combines  the  features  of  a 
tourist  and  health  resort  with  those  of  an  industrial  center. 

Near  the  eastern  entrance  of  the  Great  Smoky  Mountains  National  Park 
and  bordered  by  national  forest  lands,  the  city  is  in  the  midst  of  recreational 
areas  containing  more  than  a  million  acres.  Some  of  the  finest  primeval  for- 
ests in  the  United  States  are  accessible  by  motor  roads  and  hiking  trails. 

Asheville's  streets  roll  and  twist  to  follow  natural  contours.  The  business 
section  presents  an  uneven  mixture  of  old  and  new  buildings,  with  Pack 
Square  in  the  center  at  the  junction  of  the  principal  highways  and  dominated 
on  the  east  by  the  civic  center.  The  French  Broad  River,  whose  gorge  pro- 
vides the  only  railroad  outlet  to  the  north,  borders  the  western  section  known 
as  West  Asheville.  Along  the  river's  banks,  as  well  as  those  of  its  tributary, 
the  Swannanoa,  are  railroad  yards  and  numerous  industrial  plants. 

The  city's  population,  coming  from  all  parts  of  the  country,  is  cosmopoli- 
tan rather  than  typically  southern.  The  finer  homes  are  in  such  sections  as 
Lake  View  Park,  Grove  Park,  suburban  Biltmore  Forest,  and  on  some  of 
the  older  streets.  On  the  west  slope  of  Beaucatcher  Mountain,  surrounding 
the  modern  high  school  for  Negro  children  and  a  few  churches,  are  numer- 
ous houses  occupied  by  Negroes.  Hundreds  of  white  millworkers  and  other 
families  of  the  low-income  group  reside  in  the  West  End.  The  preponderant 
tone  of  the  residential  sections,  however,  is  that  of  the  middle-income  group 
who  live  in  new  subdivisions  or  on  the  more  attractive  streets. 

The  14,255  Negroes  in  Asheville,  28.4  percent  of  the  total  population, 
maintain  a  business  center  on  Eagle  and  Valley  Streets  and  another  on 
Southside  Avenue.  The  better  Negro  homes  are  on  the  east  end  of  College 
Street  and  on  streets  in  the  north  central  part  of  town.  While  the  bulk  of  the 
race  is  employed  in  unskilled  and  domestic  labor,  the  Negroes  are  represented 
in  most  of  the  professions  as  well  as  in  business.  They  have  their  own 
churches  and  schools,  including  the  fully  accredited  Stephens-Lee  High 
School. 

The  site  of  Asheville  was  a  part  of  the  Cherokee  Indian  hunting  ground. 
In  1673  James  Needham  and  Gabriel  Arthur  came  into  Cherokee  territory 
to  establish  trade  with  the  Indians,  who,  by  1700,  were  bartering  skins  for 
guns.  Long  before  the  Revolution  white  hunters  explored  what  is  now  Bun- 
combe County. 

There  were  no  settlements  before  the  Revolution  because  the  English  had 
fixed  the  boundary  of  white  domain  at  the  foot  of  the  Blue  Ridge  and 
guaranteed  the  territorial  integrity  of  the  Indians.  This  assurance  made  the 
Cherokee  allies  of  the  British  during  the  Revolution,  and  inspired  their  raids 
upon  Colonial  settlements.  To  end  Indian  aggression,  Gen.  Griffith  Ruther- 
ford led  his  Colonial  force  through  the  region  in  1776,  marching  down  the 
Swannanoa  River  as  far  as  present  Asheville,  then  proceeding  westward  to 
crush  the  Cherokee  and  destroy  their  villages. 

In  1792  Buncombe  County  was  formed  from  Rutherford  and  Burke  Coun- 
ties, its  territory  extending  to  the  western  boundary  of  the  State.  It  was 
named  for  Col.  Edward  Buncombe,  a  Revolutionary  War  figure. 

The  definition  of  "buncombe"  (spelled  also  bunkum  and  contracted  to 
bunk),  as  meaning  anything  said,  written,  or  done  for  mere  show,  had  its 


ASHEVILLE  I39 

origin  in  a  speech  made  in  the  Sixteenth  Congress  by  Felix  Walker,  Repre- 
sentative from  the  district  of  which  Buncombe  County  was  a  part.  The 
address  was  a  masterpiece  of  fence-sitting,  and  when  a  colleague  asked  the 
purpose  of  it,  Walker  replied:  "I  was  just  talking  for  Buncombe." 

In  1794  John  Burton  laid  out  a  town  tract  of  21  acres  for  the  county  seat 
near  the  heart  of  the  present  business  district  and  named  it  Morristown  in 
honor  of  Robert  Morris  who  helped  finance  the  American  Revolution  and 
who  once  had  large  land  holdings  in  this  section.  Three  years  later  when 
the  settlement  was  incorporated  it  was  renamed  in  honor  of  Samuel  Ashe, 
Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1795-98). 

With  the  construction  of  the  Buncombe  Turnpike  in  1824  the  region 
became  more  accessible  from  South  Carolina,  Georgia,  and  other  Southern 
States.  Visitors  and  health  seekers  came  in  increasing  numbers  to  escape 
the  summer  heat  of  the  southern  coastal  plains  and  many  remained  to  build 
homes.  A  fashionable  resort  grew  up  at  Sulphur  Springs,  west  of  the  town, 
when  Asheville  was  little  more  than  a  stage  stop  "between  the  two  Green- 
villes"  (S.  C.  and  Tenn.). 

To  the  Confederate  Army  the  county  contributed  seven  of  the  ten  com- 
panies composing  the  60th  North  Carolina  Regiment,  including  the  Bun- 
combe Riflemen.  Battery  Park  Hill  took  its  name  from  an  artillery  unit 
stationed  on  that  eminence.  Federal  troops  occupied  the  city  during  the 
final  months  of  the  conflict  after  a  minor  skirmish  a  few  miles  north  of 
town,  and  burned  an  armory  on  Valley  Street. 

Tobacco  became  a  profitable  crop  during  the  Reconstruction  period  and 
several  warehouses  were  built.  Falling  prices  led  to  abandonment  of  the 
industry  until  1931,  when,  because  of  the  successful  cultivation  of  burley 
tobacco  in  the  region,  the  city  again  became  a  tobacco  market  center. 

From  1880,  with  completion  of  the  first  railroad,  Asheville  experienced  a 
slow  but  steady  growth  as  industrial  plants  increased  in  number  and  size 
and  new  residents  built  homes.  Textile  mills  were  established  and  plants 
were  set  up  for  the  manufacture  of  wood  and  mica  products,  foodstuffs,  and 
other  commodities. 

The  coming  of  George  Vanderbilt,  New  York  capitalist,  in  1889,  and  of 
E.  W.  Grove,  St.  Louis  manufacturer,  in  1900,  and  the  improvement  projects 
they  conducted,  served  to  attract  wider  attention  to  the  city  and  to  accelerate 
its  growth.  Vanderbilt  founded  Biltmore  Village,  south  of  the  city,  purchased 
130,000  acres  of  mountain  lands,  and  developed  Biltmore  Estate  with  its 
great  chateau.  Grove  established  the  residential  section  bearing  his  name, 
built  Grove  Park  Inn,  and  cut  the  top  off  Battery  Park  Hill,  using  the  mass 
of  earth  and  stone  to  fill  a  ravine  south  of  Patton  Avenue,  now  the  Coxe 
Street  section.  The  first  streetcar  was  operated  in  1889;  the  last  was  replaced 
by  buses  in  1934. 

In  the  middle  1920's  the  Florida  real  estate  boom  spread  to  Asheville. 
Wild  speculation  and  unwholesome  overexpansion,  both  public  and  private, 
caused  several  bank  failures  and  a  distressing  public  debt.  In  1936  a  debt 
settlement,  based  on  a  long-time  amortization  plan,  was  effected  with  the 
creditors  of  the  city  and  county. 

Among  well-known  writers  who  have  made  their  homes  in  Asheville  are: 


I4O  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

Edwin  Bjorkman,  author,  critic,  and  translator;  Olive  Dargan  (Fielding 
Burke),  poet  and  author  of  Highland  Annals  and  Call  Home  the  Heart; 
Helen  Topping  Miller,  novelist  and  short-story  writer;  William  Sydney 
Porter  (O.  Henry),  short-story  writer;  Lula  Vollmer,  author  of  Sun-Up,  and 
Thomas  Wolfe,  author  of  hoo\  Homeward  Angel  and  Of  Time  and  the 
River. 

The  Civic  Music  Association  engages  outstanding  artists  and  groups  dur- 
ing the  winter.  The  Asheville  Art  Guild  conducts  occasional  exhibits 
on  the  first  floor  of  the  city  hall.  The  Negro  Community  Chorus  of  40 
voices,  and  the  Gospel  Chorus  of  Mount  Zion  Baptist  Church,  30  members, 
appear  in  public  concerts  featuring  Negro  spirituals. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  PACK  SQUARE,  at  the  intersection  of  Biltmore  Ave.,  Broadway,  and 
Patton  Ave.,  named  for  George  Willis  Pack,  philanthropist,  a  native  of  New 
York  State,  was  formerly  the  courthouse  square.  The  first  courthouse,  of  logs, 
erected  in  1793,  was  succeeded  in  turn  by  four  other  buildings.  The  fifth,  a 
three-story  brick  structure,  was  torn  down  in  1903  after  Mr.  Pack  had  given 
land  on  East  College  Street  for  a  new  building. 

The  Vance  Monument,  on  the  west  side  of  the  square,  is  a  75-foot  hewn- 
granite  obelisk  erected  in  1897  to  honor  Zebulon  Baird  Vance  (1830-94). 
A  native  of  Buncombe  County,  Zebulon  Vance  was  in  succession  a  member 
of  Congress,  Colonel  of  Confederate  troops,  twice  Governor  of  the  State,  and 
at  the  time  of  his  death  United  States  Senator.  It  is  said  that  he  loved  every 
foot  of  North  Carolina  soil  from  the  Dismal  Swamp  to  Cherokee,  and  that 
he  gave  $5  to  every  baby  named  for  him  until  they  became  too  numerous. 
The  monument  was  financed  through  popular  subscription  aided  by  a  gift 
from  Mr.  Pack. 

2.  THE  PACK  MEMORIAL  LIBRARY  (open  9-6:30  Mon.-Fri.,  9-7  Sat.), 
4  S.  Pack  Sq.,  is  the  outgrowth  of  a  private  library  organization  started  in 
1879;  a  building  was  donated  to  the  group  by  Mr.  Pack  in  1899.  The  asso- 
ciation in  1919  conveyed  its  property  to  the  city.  The  three-story  limestone 
structure  was  erected  in  1925. 

3.  The  CITY-COUNTY  PLAZA,  E.  of  Pack  Sq.,  is  terraced  and  land- 
scaped with  winding  streets  and  walks.  Behind  it  rise  the  city  hall  and  the 
county  courthouse. 

The  CITY  HALL  (R),  is  built  of  brick,  marble,  and  terra  cotta  in  shades 
harmonizing  with  the  natural  colors  of  the  clay  soil.  Designed  by  Douglas 
Ellington  and  built  in  1927,  the  nine-story  building  is  surmounted  by  a 
tower  covered  with  varicolored  tiling.  A  feather-motif,  recalling  early  Indian 
history,  is  the  prevailing  feature  of  the  decorations.  The  trim  and  wainscot 
of  the  entrance  loggia  are  of  Georgia  pink  marble;  the  vaulted  ceiling  is  of 
dull  gold  tile,  bordered  in  pink,  black,  and  orange.  Symbolic  murals  in  the 
council  chamber  on  the  second  floor,  the  work  of  Clifford  Addams  of  New 
York,  depict  the  story  of  the  Indians  and  white  settlers.  The  carillon  in  the 


ECCE  HOMO,      ST.  JAMES  CHURCH,  WILMINGTON 


ST.  THOMAS,  BATH 


ST.  PAUL  S,  EDENTON 


INTERIOR  OF   ST.  THOMAS  CHURCH,  BATH 


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OLD  BETHABARA   CHURCH,  OLD  TOWN1,  NEAR  WINSTON-SALEM 
MORAVIAN    CHURCHYARD,    WINSTON-SALEM 


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HOME  MORAVIAN   CHURCH   AND  SALEM  COLLEGE,   WINSTON-SALEM 


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CHRIST  CHURCH,  RALEIGH  PRESBYTERIAN   CHURCH,   NEW  BERN 


ST.  LAWRENCE  CATHOLIC  CHURCH,  ASHEVILLE 


CEDAR  GROVE  CEMETERY,  NEW  BERN 


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ST.    JOHN  S-IN-THE-WILDERNESS,    FLAT   ROCK  ST.   PETERS   CHURCH,  WASHINGTON 


FIRST  PRESBYTERIAN   CHURCH,   GREENSBORO 


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COUNTRY   CHURCH   OX    US   70,   NEAR   MORRISVILLE 


ASHEVILLE  141 

tower  was  presented  to  the  city  by  the  Buncombe  County  War  Mothers  as  a 
memorial  to  the  World  War  dead.  On  the  seventh  floor  is  the  Sondley 
Reference  Library  {open  9-6  weekdays),  of  which  29,000  books  and 
pamphlets  have  been  catalogued  (1939).  It  was  bequeathed  to  the  city  by 
Dr.  Forster  Alexander  Sondley  (1 857-1 931),  lawyer,  scholar,  and  book  col- 
lector. The  oldest  printed  volume  here  is  the  St.  Jerome's  Epistles,  published 
in  Parma,  Italy,  in  1480.  The  earliest  imprint  in  the  fine  collection  of  Caro- 
liniana  is  Harriot's  Brief e  and  true  report  of  the  new  found  land  of  Virginia, 
published  by  DeBry  in  Germany  in  1590.  The  library  has  the  second  printing 
of  the  first  edition  in  Latin,  and  a  reprint  of  the  English.  The  notable  col- 
lection of  North  Carolina  law  books  includes  the  famous  Yellow  Jacket 
(named  for  the  color  of  its  cover),  being  a  Collection  of  all  the  public  Acts 
of  the  province  of  North  Carolina,  published  at  New  Bern  in  1752.  In  the 
Indian  collection  are  300  books  including  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles,  printed 
in  the  Cherokee  syllabary  in  New  Echota,  Ga.,  in  1833,  and  a  copy  of  Vol.  1, 
No.  50  of  the  Cherokee  Phoenix  and  Indians'  Advocate  (Feb.  25,  1829),  a 
weekly  newspaper  published  by  E.  Boudinott  at  New  Echota.  The  2,100- 
volume  collection  of  Bibles  and  related  works  includes  works  in  Greek, 
Burmese,  Cherokee,  Armenian,  and  English,  the  Breeches  Bible,  and  a 
reprint  of  Coverdale's  translation  known  as  the  Bug  Bible. 

The  BUNCOMBE  COUNTY  COURTHOUSE  (L),  15  stories  in  height, 
was  designed  by  Milburn  and  Heister  of  Washington,  D.  O,  and  built 
during  the  boom  period  (1925-27).  The  structure  is  of  cream-colored  brick 
with  classic  details  of  Indiana  limestone  and  granite.  The  upper  five  stories 
serve  as  a  county  jail. 

4.  The  FIRST  BAPTIST  CHURCH,  SE.  corner  Oak  and  Woodfin  Sts, 
is  constructed  of  buff  brick,  wood,  and  metal  with  tall  brick  columns  front- 
ing the  facade.  Designed  by  Douglas  Ellington  and  completed  in  1927,  it  has 
an  octagonal  dome  of  varicolored  tile,  surmounted  with  a  copper  lantern. 

5.  The  ST.  LAWRENCE  CHURCH  {Roman  Catholic),  NW.  corner 
Haywood  and  Flint  Sts.,  completed  in  1909,  was  designed  by  Rafael  Guasta- 
vino,  whose  body  rests  in  a  crypt  near  the  entrance  of  the  Chapel  of  Our 
Lady.  Guastavino,  a  native  of  Spain,  won  a  wide  reputation  for  originating 


Key  to  Asheville  Map 

1.  Pack  Square.  2.  Pack  Memorial  Library.  3.  City-County  Plaza.  4.  First  Baptist 
Church.  5.  St.  Lawrence  Church.  6.  McDowell  House.  7.  Biltmore  Estate.  8.  Col- 
burn  Museum.  9.  Lee  H.  Edwards  High  School.  10.  Riverside  Cemetery.  11.  Grove 
Park  Inn.  12.  Sunset  Mountain.  13.  Tobacco  Market.  14.  Site  of  the  Swain  House. 
15.  Beaucatcher  Mountain. 

a.  Post  Office,  b.  Chamber  of  Commerce,  c.  Carolina  Motor  Club.  d.  Bus  Station. 
e.  Southern  Railway  Station,  f.  Southern  Railway  Station — Biltmore.  g.  Airport. 
h.  Play  Park.  1.  Aston  Park.  k.  Recreation  Park.  l.  Horney  Heights  Park.  m.  Base- 
ball Park.  n.  Football  Stadium,  o.  Asheville  Country  Club.  p.  Beaver  Lake  Country 
Club.  q.  Malvern  Hills  Golf  Course,  r.  Biltmore  Forest  Golf  Course,  s.  Municipal 
Golf  Course,     t.  Skeet  Club  &  Rhododendron  Park. 


144  CITIES     AND    TOWNS 

a  cohesive  type  of  self-supporting  arch.  He  came  to  the  United  States  in 
1 88 1,  and  to  Asheville  as  a  consulting  architect  on  the  Biltmore  House. 
Finding  the  facilities  of  the  Catholic  church  inadequate,  he  proposed  con- 
struction of  a  new  building  to  which  he  contributed  his  services  and  part 
of  the  funds.  The  architecture  of  the  brick  structure  is  of  modified  early 
Renaissance  design.  The  entrance  is  flanked  by  twin  towers  and  surmounted 
with  statues  of  St.  Lawrence,  St.  Stephen,  and  St.  Aloysius  Gonzaga.  The 
auditorium  is  spanned  by  a  large  elliptical  dome  having  a  clear  span  of  82 
by  58  feet.  The  self-supporting  dome  is  built  wholly  of  tile,  so  woven  that 
of  its  three  layers  no  two  joints  coincide.  The  main  altar  and  that  of  the 
Chapel  of  Our  Lady  were  designed  by  Stanford  White.  The  reredos,  in 
carved  walnut,  was  obtained  from  an  old  church  in  northern  Spain.  Sur- 
rounding the  reredos  are  figures  of  the  saints  in  polychrome  terra  cotta  by 
Guastavino. 

6.  The  McDOWELL  HOUSE  (private),  283  Victoria  Rd.,  the  oldest  house 
in  Asheville,  was  built  in  1840  by  James  M.  Smith,  the  first  white  child 
born  (1787)  west  of  the  Blue  Ridge.  The  brick  structure  of  post-Colonial 
architecture  has  18-inch  brick  walls,  massive  end  chimneys,  and  a  two-story 
gallery  porch  on  the  front.  There  is  a  fan  transom  over  the  front  door.  The 
original  mahogany  doors  and  mantels  are  retained. 

BILTMORE  VILLAGE,  lying  south  of  the  Swannanoa  River  at  the 
south  end  of  Biltmore  Avenue,  now  a  part  of  the  city  of  Asheville,  was 
designed  and  built  by  George  Vanderbilt  as  a  model  English-type  com- 
munity of  which  Biltmore  House  was  the  manor.  A  native  of  Staten  Island, 
N.  Y.,  Vanderbilt  in  1889  began  buying  land  southeast  of  Asheville,  includ- 
ing Mount  Pisgah  and  several  other  forested  mountains  and  valleys.  A 
village  plaza  and  a  score  or  more  of  houses  were  erected,  in  the  medieval 
half-timber  type  of  construction.  All  Souls  Episcopal  Church  became  the 
cultural  center  of  the  village  and  Biltmore  Hospital,  later  replaced  by  a 
modern  structure,  the  health  center.  The  village  proper  was  sold  to  an 
investment  company  after  Mr.  Vanderbilt's  death.  The  original  architectural 
style  has  given  way  to  modern  brick  stores  and  filling  stations  but  many  of 
the  old  houses,  the  stores  on  the  plaza,  and  the  church  remain. 

7.  The  BILTMORE  ESTATE  (open  9:30-6  daily;  adm.  $2  per  person), 
entrance  on  Lodge  St.  from  Biltmore  Village,  comprises  12,000  acres  of  farm 
and  forest  lands  including  the  landscaped  grounds  surrounding  Biltmore 
House,  the  Biltmore  Dairies,  a  reservation  for  wildlife  propagation,  and  15 
highly  developed  farms  operated  by  tenants. 

In  1892  Mr.  Vanderbilt  appointed  young  Gifford  Pinchot  superintendent 
of  the  Biltmore  forests,  enabling  him  to  institute  the  first  large-scale  refor- 
estation project  in  the  United  States.  On  the  appointment  of  Pinchot  as  chief 
of  the  United  States  Division  of  Forestry  he  was  succeeded  in  1895  by  Dr. 
Carl  Alvin  Schenck,  forest  assessor  of  the  Grand  Duchy  of  Hesse,  whose 
work  as  a  practical  forester  and  as  founder  of  the  Biltmore  School  of  For- 
estry contributed  to  the  development  of  scientific  forestry  in  this  country. 


ASHEVILLE  145 

The  reforestation  project  was  later  made  the  object  of  special  study  by  the 
Appalachian  Forest  Experiment  Station. 

In  19 1 6,  Mrs.  Vanderbilt  sold  80,600  acres  to  the  United  States  Govern- 
ment to  form  the  nucleus  of  the  Pisgah  National  Forest.  Later  she  sold  a 
tract  from  the  estate  for  development  into  the  Biltmore  Forest  residential 
village.  The  50  acres  immediately  surrounding  Biltmore  House  are  laid  out 
in  terraces  and  gardens.  The  front  approach  is  a  grass-carpeted  esplanade 
with  a  circular  pool  in  the  center.  At  the  eastern  end  of  the  esplanade  the 
Rampe  Douce,  an  ornate  stone  structure  designed  in  the  manner  of  the  one 
in  the  gardens  of  the  chateau  of  Vaux  le  Vicomte  in  France,  gives  access 
to  bridle  paths  that  traverse  the  thickly  wooded  slopes.  Beyond  a  hedge  are 
the  spring  gardens  containing  one  of  the  most  complete  collections  of  trees 
in  the  South. 

The  BILTMORE  HOUSE  (guides  on  duty),  designed  by  Richard  Morris 
Hunt  in  the  early  French  Renaissance  style  of  Francis  I,  recalls  the  palatial 
chateaux  at  Blois  and  at  Chambord.  Frederick  Law  Olmsted,  Sr.,  designer 
of  Central  Park  in  New  York  City,  was  landscape  architect,  and  Chauncey 
D.  Beadle,  landscape  engineer. 

Completed  in  1895  after  five  years  of  construction,  with  skilled  artisans 
from  this  country  and  from  Europe,  the  house  covers  an  area  of  4  acres  with 
frontage  of  780  feet.  The  facade  rises  in  three  distinct  stories,  graduating 
in  height  from  the  elaborate  portal  to  the  finial  cresting  on  the  roof.  The 
severity  of  the  mass  is  relieved  by  the  characteristic  French  peaked  roof  with 
dormer  windows  and  lofty  chimney  stacks.  The  walls  are  of  hand-tooled 
Indiana  limestone;  the  roof  is  of  slate. 

The  main  portal  opens  into  the  front  hall,  75  feet  in  height,  with  Guasta- 
vino  tile  ceiling.  At  the  left  of  the  hall  a  spiral  stairway,  modeled  after  that 
of  the  Chateau  de  Blois,  and  supported  by  its  own  arch  construction,  leads 
to  the  topmost  floor.  The  hand-wrought  bronze  railing  of  the  stair  encircles 
a  chandelier  of  wrought  iron  with  a  cluster  of  lights  for  each  landing. 
Adjoining  the  front  hall  is  the  court  of  palms  containing  a  fountain  orna- 
mented with  the  figures  of  a  boy  and  a  swan  by  Karl  Bitter,  Austro- American 
sculptor. 

The  dining  room  walls  are  covered  with  Spanish  leather  above  a  marble 
wainscot.  At  one  end  is  a  Wedgwood  fireplace.  The  banquet  hall  is  designed 
in  the  Norman  tradition.  Over  the  triple  fireplace  that  almost  covers  one 
end  of  the  room  is  a  frieze  by  Bitter,  representing  the  Return  from  the  Chase. 
Five  16th-century  tapestries  depicting  the  story  of  Vulcan  and  the  loves  of 
Venus  and  Mars,  hang  from  the  wall.  They  are  said  to  have  been  made  in 
Brussels  after  the  original  cartoons  by  the  Bolognese  painter  Primaticcio.  At 
the  end  of  the  hall  opposite  the  fireplace  is  a  great  rack  of  Swedish  copper- 
ware  reaching  to  the  ceiling. 

In  the  print  room  are  engravings  by  McArdell,  Earlom,  C.  Turner, 
Cousins,  Ward,  and  Cole.  On  the  center  pillar  of  the  entrance,  an  engraving, 
the  Executioner,  by  Prince  Rupert  after  Spagnoletto,  hangs  above  the  Virgin 
and  Child  by  Theodore  Caspara  Furstenberg  after  Correggio.  The  large 
assembled  engraving  on  the  left  wall  shows  the  family  tree  of  Maximilian 
the  Great  by  Albrecht  Diirer  (1516).  The  six  engravings  on  each  side  of 


I46  CITIES     AND    TOWNS 

this  piece  are  likewise  by  Diirer.  In  this  room  is  an  inlaid  chess  table 
reputed  to  have  been  used  by  Napoleon  I  during  his  exile  on  St.  Helena.  A 
dull  stain  in  the  table  drawer,  tradition  relates,  marks  the  place  where  the 
heart  of  the  Emperor  lay  hidden  until  it  could  be  smuggled  into  France 
for  burial. 

In  the  tapestry  gallery,  adjoining  the  print  room,  covering  almost  the 
entire  100-foot  length  of  the  walls,  are  three  Flemish  tapestries  of  the  late 
15th  century  depicting  Prudence,  Faith,  and  Charity.  The  library  is  paneled 
in  Circassian  walnut.  The  ceiling  painting  is  the  work  of  Giovanni  Battista 
Tiepolo  (1696-1770),  last  outstanding  artist  of  the  Venetian  school.  The 
canvas  was  obtained  from  an  Italian  palace  with  Mr.  Vanderbilt's  agreement 
that  the  name  of  the  original  owner  should  never  be  revealed.  The  shelves 
contain  some  25,000  volumes,  among  them  rare  works  on  art,  architecture, 
and  gardening.  An  upstairs  corridor  displays  the  red  velvet  train  of  Cardinal 
Richelieu. 

BILTMORE  FOREST,  a  suburban  area  lying  south  of  Biltmore  Village, 
was  developed  from  a  portion  of  the  Biltmore  Estate.  With  its  natural 
wooded  setting,  landscaped  drives,  country  club,  riding  academy,  and  a  few 
shops,  this  incorporated  village,  which  has  its  own  municipal  facilities,  is 
considered  one  of  the  most  attractive  in  the  South. 

8.  The  COLBURN  MUSEUM  (open  to  mineralogists  by  permission  of 
owner),  at  the  residence  of  Burnham  S.  Colburn,  Greystone  Court,  Biltmore 
Forest,  contains  one  of  the  finest  collections  of  southern  Appalachian  minerals 
and  Cherokee  Indian  relics  in  existence,  including  specimens  of  almost 
all  the  300  minerals  found  in  North  Carolina.  Hiddenite,  the  rare  emerald- 
green  variety  of  spodumene  which  occurs  in  this  form  only  in  North  Caro- 
lina is  displayed.  Native  minerals  and  gems  are  shown  with  similar  gems  of 
foreign  origin.  The  Cherokee  relics  include  ancient  clay  pots  found  in 
graves,  stone  weapons,  and  gorgets,  carved  from  conch  shells. 

9.  The  LEE  H.  EDWARDS  HIGH  SCHOOL,  McDowell  St.,  was  de- 
signed by  Douglas  Ellington  in  1927.  It  is  constructed  of  granite  in  tones 
ranging  from  white  through  gray  to  pink.  A  tower,  banded  in  orange  brick 
and  terra  cotta,  rises  above  the  central  rotunda.  Besides  the  class  rooms  the 
structure  contains  an  auditorium  seating  1,800. 

10.  In  RIVERSIDE  CEMETERY,  entrance  on  Birch  St.,  is  the  Grave  of 
William  Sydney  Porter  (O.  Henry),  short-story  writer  (1862-1910),  whose 
second  wife  was  Miss  Sarah  Lindsay  Coleman  of  Weaverville.  O.  Henry 
did  some  of  his  writing  while  living  near  Weaverville,  9  miles  north  of 
Asheville. 

A  Monument  marks  the  grave  of  18  interned  German  sailors  who  died 
of  typhoid  fever  during  the  World  War  in  the  United  States  hospital, 
Kenilworth.  With  several  hundred  others,  they  were  held  in  an  internment 
camp  at  Hot  Springs  (see  tour  22a)  after  being  taken  from  German  mer- 
chant ships  in  United  States  harbors.  The  monument  was  erected  in  1932 


ASHEVILLE  147 

by  Kiffin  Rockwell  post  of  the  American  Legion,  and  other  legionnaires 
throughout  the  State. 

Here  also  is  the  Grave  of  Thomas  L.  Clingman  (1812-97),  Representa- 
tive in  Congress  and  later  United  States  Senator,  who  served  as  brigadier 
general  in  the  Confederate  Army.  After  the  war  he  measured  several  moun- 
tain peaks  in  western  North  Carolina  and  assisted  in  developing  the  mineral 
resources  of  the  section. 

The  Grave  of  Zebulon  Baird  Vance  is  marked  by  a  rough  block  of 
granite,  and  nearby  is  the  Grave  of  Gen.  Robert  B.  Vance  (1828-99),  his 
brother.  General  Vance  served  in  the  Confederate  Army  as  commander  of 
the  military  district  of  western  North  Carolina. 

n.  GROVE  PARK  INN,  off  Macon  Ave.,  on  the  west  slope  of  Sunset 
Mountain,  a  resort  hotel  built  in  1912-13  for  E.  W.  Grove,  resembles  a  Swiss 
mountain  hostelry.  With  a  frontage  of  almost  500  feet,  the  mass  of  the 
building  rises  in  a  series  of  terraces,  giving  a  rambling,  horizontal  effect.  The 
walls  are  of  native  granite  boulders.  Massive  dormer  windows  lend  variety 
to  the  red-tiled  roof.  The  lobby  is  notable  for  two  fireplaces  of  unusual  size. 
The  Biltmore  Industries  {open  g-5  Mon.-Fri.,  9-12  Sal.),  adjoining  the 
Grove  Park  Inn  premises,  are  housed  in  a  group  of  buildings  including  work- 
shops, offices,  and  salesrooms.  Here  are  produced  the  Biltmore  homespuns 
(piecegoods),  made  on  hand-operated  looms  from  yarns  dyed  in  the  wool. 

12.  SUNSET  MOUNTAIN  (toll  50$  for  one-seated  cars,  J5<f-  for  two-seated 
cars),  at  end  of  Macon  Ave.,  presents  an  extensive  view  of  Asheville  and 
the  surrounding  mountain  ranges.  The  mountain  was  named  because  of  the 
impressive  sunsets  that  can  be  seen  from  its  summit  (3,100  alt.).  The  moun- 
tain may  be  reached  by  a  hiking  trail  (free)  starting  near  the  end  of  Macon 
Avenue. 

13.  The  TOBACCO  MARKET  (open  in  season).  Two  warehouses  for  the 
sale  of  burley  tobacco  are  operated  in  Asheville:  the  Carolina,  on  Valley 
Street,  and  Bernards,  in  Biltmore.  The  market  usually  opens  the  second  week 
in  December  and  closes  about  January  15.  Mountain  farmers  bring  in  their 
tobacco  to  be  sold  by  auctioneers  who  use  the  rapid-fire  jargon  peculiar  to 
the  trade.  In  1937-38  season  sales  on  the  local  market  aggregated  5,500,000 
pounds. 

ELK  MOUNTAIN  SCENIC  TOUR— 17  m. 

The  Elk  Mountain  Scenic  Tour  along  the  ridges  of  mountains  skirting 
the  city  on  the  northeast  and  east  affords  views  of  mountain  peaks,  coves, 
and  valleys  from  numerous  vantage  points. 

North  from  Pack  Square  on  Broadway;  R.  on  Merrimon  Ave.  to  junction 
with  Beaverdam  Rd.,  2.5  m. ;  R.  on  Beaverdam  Rd.  to  the  junction  with 
a  dirt  road,  5.1  m.  Left  on  the  dirt  road  to  (14),  the  SITE  OF  THE  SWAIN 
HOUSE  (private),  200  yds.,  birthplace  of  two  cousins,  David  Swain  and 
Joseph  Lane,  who  became  Governors  of  different  States.  The  original  log 


148  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

dwelling  was  built  in  1795  by  George  Swain.  The  present  two-story  struc- 
ture was  built  of  hewn  logs  taken  from  the  original  house.  David  Lowry 
Swain,  son  of  George  and  Caroline  Lane  Lowry  Swain,  who  was  born  here 
Jan.  4,  1801,  served  as  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1832-35),  the  youngest 
man  who  ever  occupied  that  position,  and  was  president  of  the  University 
of  North  Carolina  from  1835  until  his  death  in  1868.  Joseph  Lane  was  born 
in  the  Swain  house  on  Dec.  4,  1801,  the  son  of  John  and  Elizabeth  Street 
Lane.  He  moved  to  Kentucky,  later  to  Indiana,  and  was  brevetted  major- 
general  for  service  in  the  Mexican  War.  In  1848  he  was  commissioned  by 
President  Polk  as  Governor  of  the  Territory  of  Oregon,  was  elected  United 
States  Senator  in  1859,  and  Governor  of  the  new  State  in  1861.  In  i860  he 
was  candidate  for  Vice  President  with  Breckinridge. 

Retrace  dirt  road  to  Beaverdam  Rd.  At  5.2  m.  the  Scenic  Loop  takes  R. 
fork,  following  State  694  markers.  The  route  ascends  the  mountain  by  a 
steep  climb  following  a  sand-clay  road. 

At  9.2  m.  is  MOUNTAIN  MEADOWS  INN  (open  in  summer),  a 
rustic  hotel  set  in  mountain  surroundings  with  a  sweeping  view  of  the 
Swannanoa  Valley. 

At  12  m.  is  the  junction  (R)  with  the  toll  road  to  Sunset  Mountain,  and 
at  13.7  m.  is  another  junction  (R)  with  the  Sunset  Mountain  toll  road. 
The  Scenic  Drive  turns  sharply  L.  at  this  junction. 

At  14.9  m.  the  route  turns  R.  to  pass  through  an  underpass  at  the  gap 
of  (15)  BEAUCATCHER  MOUNTAIN,  15.1  m.,  at  the  eastern  edge  of 
the  city  overlooking  Asheville  and  the  ranges  to  the  west.  According  to  tra- 
dition the  mountain  received  its  name  because  young  women  kept  trysts 
with  their  beaux  here. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  ENVIRONS 

Birthplace  of  Zebulon  B.  Vance,  13.5  m.,  Craggy  Rhododendron  Gardens,  29  m. 
(see  tour  21  a);  American  Enka  Plant,  7  m.,  Spivey  Mountain  observation  tower,  7  m., 
Lake  Junaluska  (Methodist  summer  assembly),  27  m.  (see  tour  21b);  Mount  Pisgah, 
25  m.  (see  tour  21  A);  Montreat  (Presbyterian  summer  assembly),  17  m.,  Blue  Ridge 
(Y.M.C.A.  summer  assembly),  17  m.,  Ridgecrest  (Baptist  summer  assembly),  18  m. 
(see  tour  30);  Mount  Mitchell,  29  m-  (see  tour  30A);  Chimney  Rock  and  Lake  Lure, 
25  m.  (see  tour  31c). 


CHAPEL       HILL 


Railroad  Station:  Nearest  at  Durham,  N.  C,  12  m. 

Bus  Station:   121  N.  Columbia  St.  for  Carolina  Coach  Co. 

Airport:  Martindale  Field,  2  m.  NE.  on  old  Hillsboro  Rd.;  no  scheduled  service. 

Accommodations:  1   hotel;   boarding  houses. 

Information  Service:  Alumni  Headquarters,  Carolina  Inn;  campus  Y.M.C.A.;  Graham 
Memorial. 

Theaters  and  Motion  Picture  Houses:  Playmakers  Theater,  campus;  Forest  Theater,  Coun- 
try Club  Rd.;  2  motion  picture  houses. 

Athletic  Fields:  Kenan  Stadium  (football);  Emerson  Field  (baseball);  Fetzer  Field  (track 
and  intramural  contests). 

Golf:  Chapel  Hill  Country  Club,  Country  Club  Rd.,  9  holes,  greens  fee,  50^. 

Annual  Events:  State-wide  Dramatic  Festival  and  Tournament  of  the  Carolina  Dramatic 
Association,  Mar.;  High  School  Week,  Apr.;  University  Day,  Oct.  12. 

CHAPEL  HILL  (501  alt.,  2,699  P°P-)>  seat  °f  the  University  of  North  Caro- 
lina, first  of  the  Nation's  State  universities,  is  situated  on  a  granite  elevation 
250  feet  above  the  eastern  Coastal  Plain  near  the  center  of  the  State.  The 
village  takes  it  name  from  the  little  New  Hope  Chapel  that  stood  in  the  late 
1 8th  century  at  the  crossing  of  the  roads  from  Petersburg,  Va.,  and  New 
Bern,  N.  C. 

The  single  business  block  is  as  undistinguished  as  the  main  street  of  any 
southern  small  town  but  on  the  552-acre  campus  are  dignified  ivied  buildings 
bearing  the  names  of  men  and  women  outstanding  in  State  and  university 
affairs.  Pleasant  streets  are  shaded  by  lichened  oaks,  hickories,  hollies,  cedars, 
flowering  fruit  trees,  redbud,  and  dogwood.  Homes,  old  and  new,  are  set  in 
shady  yards  and  banked  with  flowers  and  shrubs.  Stone  walls  clad  with  ivy 
or  rambler  rose  vines  border  university  as  well  as  private  property.  Fraternity 
houses,  mostly  Georgian,  cluster  about  the  edges  of  the  campus  among  the 
village  churches,  the  post  office,  and  the  Carolina  Inn.  Forested  Battle  Park, 
with  brooks,  springs,  and  picnic  grounds,  is  at  the  east  end  of  the  campus. 
With  no  industries  and  no  commercial  interest  other  than  to  serve  the  uni- 
versity community,  Chapel  Hill  has  remained  a  friendly  village,  its  sociability 
interwoven  with  intellectual  liberalism. 

In  1776  the  Halifax  convention  framed  a  constitution  which  provided  that 
"All  useful  learning  shall  be  duly  encouraged  and  promoted  in  one  or  more 
universities."  Sponsored  by  Gen.  William  R.  Davie,  "father  of  the  univer- 
sity," a  charter  issued  by  the  general  assembly  in  1789  stipulated  that  the 
university  should  not  be  "within  five  miles  of  the  seat  of  government  or  of 
any  place  holding  courts  of  law  or  equity."  In  1792  the  commissioners, 
"because  of  its  healthiness,"  chose  this  hill  where  "the  flat  country  spreads 

M9 


150  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

out  below  like  the  ocean,"  and  where  "an  abundance  of  springs  of  the 
purest  and  finest  water  .  .  .  burst  from  the  side  of  the  ridge."  The  first 
trustees,  with  Gen.  William  Lenoir  as  president,  were  men  who  had  been 
or  later  became  Governors,  legislators,  Senators,  and  State  and  Federal 
judges. 

The  village  grew  with  the  new  institution.  On  Oct.  12,  1793,  when  Davie 
as  grand  master  of  Masons  laid  the  cornerstone  of  Old  East,  the  first  build- 
ing, the  first  town  lots  were  sold.  Oct.  12  is  annually  celebrated  as  University 
Day. 

On  the  opening  day,  Jan.  16,  1795,  in  spite  of  bitter  weather  and  almost 
impassable  roads,  many  prominent  men,  including  Gov.  Richard  Dobbs 
Spaight  (see  new  bern),  assembled  at  Chapel  Hill.  The  first  student, 
Hinton  James,  who  walked  the  170  miles  from  Wilmington  to  Chapel  Hill, 
did  not  arrive  until  Feb.  12;  for  two  weeks  he  was  the  student  body.  By 
the  end  of  the  second  term  there  were  100  students.  Although  the  young 
institution  was  accused  of  being  "aristocratical,"  tuition  fees  were  low  and 
living  conditions  primitive.  The  boys  seldom  saw  a  newspaper  and  weeks 
intervened  between  letters.  The  only  way  to  travel  the  red  clay  roads  was 
by  horseback,  cart,  "chairs,"  or  double  sulkies.  Feather  beds  were  rented 
from  the  steward  for  $24  a  year  or  the  boys  slept  on  hard  boards;  meals  at 
commons  were  $40  for  the  year.  Some  of  the  boys  brought  body  servants 
from  home  to  forage  for  firewood,  carry  water,  and  sometimes  cook  their 
meals. 

The  university's  original  endowment  consisted  of  old  claims  on  sheriffs 
and  other  officers,  and  escheats,  including  unclaimed  land  warrants  granted 
to  Continental  soldiers,  collection  of  which  was  uncertain  and  often  made 
enemies  for  the  new  school.  By  constant  struggle  and  periodic  appeals  for 
private  benefactions,  the  institution  grew  despite  general  poverty,  opposition 
to  taxation,  denominational  hostility,  and  sectional  controversies  between  the 
east  and  west.  The  general  assembly  did  not  appropriate  public  funds  for 
its  maintenance  until  1881. 

Joseph  Caldwell  came  from  Princeton  in  1796  to  accept  the  chair  of 
mathematics  and  until  he  was  elected  the  first  president  in  1804,  the  school 
was  under  a  succession  of  "presiding  professors."  Notable  in  Caldwell's 
regime  (1804-12,  1817-35)  was  tne  erection  in  1830  of  a  modest  observatory, 
the  first  in  connection  with  an  American  university,  to  house  instruments  he 
had  purchased  in  London.  Under  Caldwell,  the  institution  grew  from  a 
small  classical  school  into  a  creditable  college.  He  was  succeeded  by  David 
Lowry  Swain,  youngest  Governor  of  the  State  (1832-35),  an  astute  poli- 
tician and  practical  financier  who  did  much  to  popularize  the  university 
over  the  whole  State  and  to  build  up  its  endowment  before  the  termination 
of  his  long  tenure  (1835-68). 

The  university  remained  open  during  the  War  between  the  States,  although 
as  each  Southern  State  seceded  its  student  sons  summarily  departed  until,  at 
the  1865  commencement,  there  were  but  four  graduates  and  10  or  12  students. 
Union  troops  protected  college  property  when  they  occupied  the  village  in 
April  1865.  Unable  to  weather  the  storms  of  Reconstruction,  its  endow- 
ment dissipated    in   worthless   securities,  the  institution    was   closed   by   a 


CHAPEL     HILL  151 

carpetbag  administration  in  1868.  It  was  not  successfully  reopened  until 
1875  after  a  heroic  fight  led  by  Cornelia  Phillips  Spencer  and  friends  and 
alumni  headed  by  Kemp  Plummer  Battle.  Dr.  Battle,  president  (1876-91), 
established  the  first  summer  normal  session  in  the  South  (1877),  and  wrote 
a  comprehensive  two-volume  history  of  the  university. 

During  the  administration  of  Dr.  Francis  Preston  Venable  (1900-14)  the 
university's  finances  were  set  in  order,  student  athletics  were  encouraged, 
and  creative  scholarship  was  required  of  the  faculty.  Venable  Hall,  the 
chemistry  building,  recalls  his  eminence  in  that  field. 

The  brief  administration  of  Edward  Kidder  Graham  (1914-18)  was  no- 
table for  the  enlargement  of  the  university's  service  to  the  State  at  large, 
increased  resources  for  administrative  and  building  purposes,  and  a  strength- 
ening of  student  morale  and  honor  standards.  During  his  regime,  Mrs. 
Robert  Worth  Bingham  (Mary  Lily  Kenan  Flagler)  endowed  the  Kenan 
professorships  in  memory  of  her  parents  and  her  uncle.  Under  President 
Harry  Woodburn  Chase  (1918-30),  the  university  achieved  an  international 
reputation  for  high  standards  of  scholarship  and  for  freedom  in  research 
and  teaching.  In  1922  the  institution  was  elected  to  membership  in  the 
Association  of  American  Universities  and  in  1931  to  its  presidency.  The 
administrative  consolidation  of  the  university,  the  woman's  college  at 
Greensboro,  and  the  college  of  agriculture  and  engineering  at  Raleigh  into 
the  Greater  University  with  Frank  Porter  Graham  as  president,  was  effected 
in  1932. 

In  the  regular  session  (1936-37)  there  were  250  faculty  members  and 
3,052  students,  1,077  correspondence  students,  and  868  in  extension  classes, 
with  an  estimated  2,000  for  the  summer  session.  The  student  body  includes 
representatives  of  36  States  other  than  North  Carolina,  though  most  of  the 
21,000  alumni  live  in  the  State.  Women,  who  in  1938  constituted  10  per- 
cent of  the  enrollment,  are  not  admitted  to  the  general  college  (freshman 
and  sophomore  classes)  except  in  the  School  of  Pharmacy. 

The  College  of  Liberal  Arts  has  been  expanded  into  the  Schools  of 
Commerce,  Law,  Library  Science,  Medicine,  Pharmacy  (largest  in  the 
South),  Public  Health,  the  College  of  Arts  and  Sciences,  the  Graduate  School, 
the  Summer  School,  the  School  of  Fine  Arts,  and  the  Extension  Division. 

The  Institute  for  Research  in  Social  Science  was  organized  in  1924  with 
Howard  W.  Odum  as  director.  It  promotes  social  science  and  research. 
Numerous  specialized  studies  on  southern  life  have  been  published,  with 
the  attainment  of  a  cultural  inventory  of  the  whole  region  as  the  ultimate 
objective. 

The  Carolina  Playmakers  have  made  a  distinguished  contribution  to 
American  folk  drama,  finding  their  sources  in  the  life  and  history  of  the 
State.  Their  founder  and  director,  Frederick  H.  Koch,  came  to  the  uni- 
versity in  1918.  The  Playmakers  annually  present  six  plays,  six  experimental 
productions  (written  and  directed  by  students),  and  eight  readings  of  con- 
temporary plays.  Four  volumes  of  original  plays  have  been  published.  Koch 
also  organized  the  Bureau  of  Community  Drama  and  helped  organize  the 
State-wide  Carolina  Dramatic  Association.  Among  "Prof"  Koch's  pupils 
have  been  Maxwell  Anderson,  Paul  Green,  Hatcher  Hughes,  Lula  Vollmer, 


J.S    NVN3X 


IS  N0S8311Vd 


CHAPEL    HILL  153 

Anne  Preston  Bridgers,  Shepherd  Strudwick,  Sidney  Blackmer,  and  Thomas 
Wolfe. 

Faculty  members  include  Archibald  Henderson,  mathematician,  historian, 
and  biographer  of  George  Bernard  Shaw;  Paul  Green,  philosopher  and 
Pulitzer  prize  playwright;  Phillips  Russell,  biographer  of  John  Paul  Jones, 
Emerson,  and  others;  Howard  W.  Odum,  sociological  writer.  Judge  Robert 
W.  Winston,  who  reentered  the  university  at  the  age  of  60,  has  since  written 
biographies  of  Andrew  Johnson,  Jefferson  Davis,  and  Robert  E.  Lee. 

The  University  Press  publishes  annually  about  30  books  and  issues  five 
periodicals  and  technical  journals.  The  press  specializes  in  books  about  the 
South's  social,  economic,  and  racial  problems,  and  experimental  textbooks. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

{Unless  otherwise  stated,  all  university  buildings  are  open  during  school 
hours.) 

1.  The  OLD  WELL,  in  a  little  classic  temple  on  maple-shaded  Cameron 
Avenue,  in  the  heart  of  the  campus,  is  the  shrine  and  symbol  of  the  univer- 
sity, and  center  for  outdoor  "pep"  meetings,  though  for  years  its  chief 
mission  was  to  furnish  the  only  water  available  to  students. 

2.  SOUTH  (MAIN)  BUILDING,  opposite  the  well,  modeled  after  Prince- 
ton's Nassau  Hall,  is  a  three-story  brick  building  with  a  Westover  River 
Front  entrance  and  a  two-story  Ionic  porch  at  the  rear.  It  dates  to  1798  when 
its  cornerstone  was  laid  and  walls  for  a  story-and-a-half  building  erected. 
Students  made  little  huts  in  the  structure,  which  remained  roofless  until  a 
lottery  and  President  Caldwell's  canvass  of  the  State  in  his  stick-back  gig 
provided  money  for  its  completion  (1814).  When  the  university  was  closed 
in  1868,  horses  and  cows  were  stabled  on  the  lower  floor.  Remodeled  (1926), 
South  Building  houses  administrative  offices. 

3.  OLD  EAST,  flanking  the  well  on  the  E.,  is  the  country's  oldest  standing 
State  university  building.  Designed  and  built  by  the  "mechanic,"  James 
Patterson,  its  cornerstone  was  laid  in  1793.  It  is  a  simple  well-proportioned 
three-story  brick  building,  without  architectural  distinction.  Originally  in- 


Key  to  Chapel  Hill  Map 

1.  The  Old  Well.  2.  South  (Main)  Building.  3.  Old  East.  4.  Old  West.  5.  The 
Davie  Poplar.  6.  Person  Hall.  7.  Hill  Music  Hall.  8.  New  West.  9.  Memorial  Hall. 
10.  Gerrard  Hall.  11.  The  University  Library.  12.  The  Morehead -Patterson  Bell  Tower. 
13.  Kenan  Stadium.  14.  The  Playmakers  Theater.  15.  New  East.  16.  Davie  Hall. 
17.  The  Coker  Arboretum.  18.  The  President's  House.  19.  Spencer  Hall.  20.  The  Stone 
Cottage.  21.  The  Widow  Puckett  House.  22.  The  Hooper  House.  23.  The  Chapel  of  the 
Cross.  24.  Graham  Memorial.  25.  The  Sprunt  Memorial  Presbyterian  Church.  26. 
Gimghoul  Castle. 

a.  Post  Office,  b.  Bus  Station  c.  Information  Service,  d.  Emerson  Field,  e.  Fetzer 
Field.       f.  Golf  Course. 


154  CITIES     AND    TOWNS 

tended  as  the  south  wing  of  a  larger  structure  to  face  east  along  a  mile-long 
avenue,  Old  East  was  two  stories  high  and  had  16  rooms,  each  accom- 
modating four  students.  Bricks  were  burned  from  clay  with  wood  taken 
from  university  lands.  Sea  shells  given  by  a  Wilmington  friend  were  brought 
by  boat  to  Fayetteville  and  thence  by  wagon  to  Chapel  Hill  where  they  were 
converted  into  lime.  In  1824  Old  East  was  lengthened  and  made  one  story 
higher  to  conform  to  Old  West,  built  in  that  year.  In  1924  the  danger  of 
collapsing  walls  and  foundations  entailed  remodeling  the  interior  of  Old 
East,  but  the  work  did  not  destroy  the  original  lines. 

4.  OLD  WEST  (1824),  flanking  the  well  on  the  W.,  matches  Old  East,  and 
serves  as  a  dormitory. 

5.  The  DAVIE  POPLAR,  N.  of  the  well  in  the  heart  of  the  old  campus, 
is  a  great  ivy-covered  tree  named  for  the  father  of  the  university.  Under  it 
the  commissioners  supposedly  paused  to  eat  lunch  when  they  were  inspecting 
the  site  for  the  new  university. 

6.  PERSON  HALL,  W.  of  the  poplar,  first  chapel  of  the  university,  was 
started  in  1793  and  finished  in  1797  through  the  gift  of  Gen.  Thomas  Person. 
It  was  built  in  three  sections,  the  original  laid  in  Flemish  bond  with  care- 
fully designed  post-Colonial  details.  The  H-shaped  one-story  building  is, 
architecturally,  one  of  the  most  notable  structures  in  Chapel  Hill.  It  is  used 
(1939)  by  the  School  of  Fine  Arts. 

7.  HILL  MUSIC  HALL,  NW.  of  Person  Hall  facing  the  poplar,  is  a  white 
sandstone  and  buff  brick  building  originally  the  Carnegie  Foundation  Li- 
brary (1907-29).  Through  the  gift  of  alumnus  John  Sprunt  Hill  and  his 
wife,  it  was  remodeled  as  a  center  for  university  musical  activities.  The 
auditorium  seats  796,  has  a  four-manual  pipe  organ,  can  accommodate  a 
chorus  of  125  and  a  60-piece  orchestra. 

8.  NEW  WEST,  W.  of  Old  West,  was  begun  in  1857,  as  was  its  companion 
building,  New  East,  to  provide  much-needed  accommodations,  when,  after 
the  gold  rush,  the  enrollment  increased  from  170  students  in  1850  to  456 
in  1858.  It  is  a  three-story  building  of  stuccoed  brick  and  sandstone  trim, 
with  a  large  central  pavilion  flanked  by  wings.  The  architecture  is  of  Italian 
influence  with  well-executed  detail.  New  East  is  similar  in  design  but  has 
four  stories.  New  West  houses  the  department  of  psychology  and  has  on  its 
third  floor  the  Dialectic  Society  Hall  {open  on  application  to  janitor). 
The  "Di"  and  the  "Phi"  literary  societies,  organized  in  1795,  were  long  in 
charge  of  all  student  activities  and  expulsion  from  the  society  was  tanta- 
mount to  dismissal  from  the  university.  Their  tradition  of  violent  political 
disagreement  arises  from  the  fact  that  the  Di  was  for  western  and  the  Phi 
for  eastern  students.  Sectionalism  still  plays  a  part  in  the  choice  of  members, 
but  the  organizations  are  largely  forensic  and  parliamentary.  They  annually 
sponsor  State-wide  high  school  triangular  debating  contests;  finals  are  held 
in  Chapel  Hill. 


CHAPEL     HILL  155 

9.  MEMORIAL  HALL,  opposite  New  West,  is  a  white-columned,  buff- 
painted  brick  convocation  hall.  Erected  in  1 931,  it  contains  memorial  tablets 
to  war  dead,  prominent  alumni,  and  benefactors  of  the  university.  One 
honors  James  Knox  Polk,  nth  President  of  the  United  States,  who  was 
graduated  with  the  first  honors  of  his  class  in  1818  and  "never  missed  a  duty 
while  in  the  institution."  He  attended  the  1847  commencement  while  he  was 
President. 

10.  GERRARD  HALL,  between  Memorial  Hall  and  South  Building,  built 
in  1822,  is  a  small  rectangular  brick  structure,  which  served  for  many  years 
as  a  chapel.  It  was  named  for  a  university  benefactor,  Maj.  Charles  Gerrard. 
There  was  formerly  a  classic  portico  on  the  south  side  intended  to  face  an 
east-west  avenue,  abandoned  when  merchants  complained  that  it  would 
divert  traffic  from  Franklin  Street.  It  was  used  for  years  to  accommodate 
small  audiences,  but  in  1938  was  condemned  for  use,  awaiting  restoration. 

11.  The  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARY  {open  8:15  a.m.-u  p.m.  weekdays;  2-6 
Sun.),  at  the  end  of  the  unfinished  quadrangle  behind  South  Building, 
erected  in  1929,  is  the  heart  of  the  new  campus.  It  is  an  impressive  lime- 
stone structure  with  monumental  granite  steps,  a  Corinthian  portico,  and  a 
low  dome.  The  interior,  conservatively  decorated  in  the  classic  style,  is  finished 
in  plaster  and  travertine.  The  343,832  volumes  constitute  one  of  the  three 
largest  book  collections  in  the  South.  The  extension  service  lends  some 
50,000  volumes  yearly.  Among  important  special  collections  are  those  dealing 
with  North  Carolina  and  the  South,  consisting  of  books,  letters,  diaries, 
plantation  records,  and  maps.  The  Hanes  Collection  for  the  Study  of  the 
Origin  of  the  Book  includes  Babylonian  tablets,  Egyptian  papyri,  1,000 
medieval  manuscripts,  and  560  books  printed  in  the  15th  century.  There 
are  separate  departmental  libraries  and  a  union  catalogue  showing  also 
holdings  of  the  Library  of  Congress,  the  John  Crerar  and  Duke  University 
libraries. 

12.  Rising  behind  the  dome  of  the  library,  facing  on  South  Road,  is  the 
MOREHE AD-PATTERSON  BELL  TOWER,  erected  in  193 1,  an  impos- 
ing Italian  Renaissance  campanile  in  a  setting  of  boxwoods,  presented  by 
John  Motley  Morehead  and  Rufus  Lenoir  Patterson.  Names  of  their  fami- 
lies, long  associated  with  the  university,  are  inscribed  on  the  bells.  Each 
afternoon  at  5  o'clock  the  chimes  ring  out  old  hymns,  university  songs,  and 
occasionally  popular  music. 

13.  KENAN  STADIUM,  behind  the  bell  tower,  built  in  1927,  is  approached 
by  roads  and  paths  through  the  woods  that  encircle  it.  This  concrete  amphi- 
theater nestles  in  a  natural  bowl  and  seats  24,000  in  its  permanent  stands. 
The  end  walls  of  the  oval  are  terraced  in  native  shrubs  and  slope  down  to  a 
gateway  on  the  western  end  and  a  field  house  on  the  eastern  end.  The 
stadium  was  the  gift  of  William  Rand  Kenan,  Jr.,  in  memory  of  his  parents. 
It  is  used  for  major  athletic  events  and  commencement  exercises  and  in 
the  summer  for  plays,  pageants,  and  concerts. 


I56  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

14.  The  PLAYMAKERS  THEATER,  SE.  of  South  Building,  when  built 
in  1849,  was  called  the  Smith  Building  for  Gov.  Benjamin  Smith,  first  bene- 
factor of  the  university,  who  gave  land  warrants  for  20,000  acres.  It  was 
designed  by  Alexander  J.  Davis  at  the  height  of  the  Greek  Revival  and  has 
a  portico  of  the  Corinthian  order.  The  column  capitals  are  designed  with 
ears  of  corn  and  other  grains  in  place  of  the  traditional  acanthus  leaves. 
This  was  the  first  library  of  the  university  (used  only  by  faculty  and  visitors) 
and  scene  of  the  annual  commencement  balls.  After  a  period  as  the  law 
school  it  was  converted  into  the  experimental  theater  of  the  Carolina  Play- 
makers  who  also  maintain  a  Forest  Theater  for  occasional  outdoor  produc- 
tions on  Country  Club  Road  in  Battle  Park. 

15.  NEW  EAST,  opposite  the  Playmakers  Theater,  erected  in  1857,  houses 
the  geology  department.  On  the  1st  floor  is  the  Geological  Museum  {open 
9-4  Mon-Fri.;  9-1  Sat.;  and  on  special  occasions).  In  the  collection  are 
specimens  of  rare  North  Carolina  gems,  fossil  wood  from  sedimentary  rocks, 
and  itacolumite,  flexible  sandstone  from  Stokes  County.  On  the  4th  floor  is 
the  Philanthropic  Assembly  Hall  {open  all  hours). 

16.  DAVIE  HALL,  E.  of  New  East,  built  in  1908  and  named  for  the  uni- 
versity's founder,  houses  the  botany  and  zoology  departments.  In  the  build- 
ing are  many  specimens  of  mounted  plants  and  animals  and  the  Herbarium 
{open  9-5  weekdays),  one  of  the  largest  in  the  South. 

17.  The  COKER  ARBORETUM,  NW.  corner  Cameron  Ave.  and  Hills- 
boro  St.,  is  a  5-acre  university  garden  transformed  from  a  boggy  cow  pasture 
by  Dr.  W.  C.  Coker.  It  is  one  of  the  most  complete  botanical  gardens  of  its 
kind  in  America  and  contains  almost  every  shrub  or  tree  that  grows  in  the 
temperate  zone.  A  loose  rock  wall  marks  its  boundaries  and  a  wistaria 
trellis  borders  Cameron  Avenue. 

18.  The  PRESIDENT'S  HOUSE,  SE.  corner  Franklin  and  Hillsboro  Sts., 
built  in  1909,  is  a  large  dwelling  with  colonnaded  portico  and  porches  on 
three  sides,  erected  in  President  Venable's  regime  on  the  site  of  President 
Swain's  former  home.  President  Graham  holds  open  house  Sunday  nights 
for  students  and  faculty. 

19.  SPENCER  HALL,  SW.  corner  Franklin  and  Hillsboro  Sts.,  women's 
dormitory,  bears  the  name  of  Mrs.  Cornelia  Phillips  Spencer  (1825-1908), 
ardent  supporter  of  the  university  after  the  War  between  the  States.  She 
climbed  to  the  tower  of  South  Building  and  rang  out  the  glad  tidings  when 
word  was  received  that  the  university  would  reopen.  The  LL.D.  conferred 
upon  Mrs.  Spencer  in  1895  was  the  first  honorary  degree  bestowed  upon  a 
woman  by  the  university.  Among  her  many  writings  was  Last  Ninety  Days 
of  the  War  (1866),  written  at  the  request  of  Gov.  Zebulon  B.  Vance. 

20.  The  STONE  COTTAGE  {private),  NE.  corner  Franklin  and  Hills- 
boro Sts.,  was  originally  the  law  office  of  Judge  William  H.   Battle  and_ 
Samuel  F.  Phillips,  later  United  States  Solicitor  General.  Italian  in  style  it 
is  of  field  stone  construction  covered  with  stucco.  Here  in  1845  began  the 
university's  first  professional  school,  that  of  law. 


CHAPEL    HILL  157 

21.  The  WIDOW  PUCKETT  HOUSE  {private),  501  E.  Franklin  St., 
built  about  1799  by  John  Puckett,  is  one  of  the  few  remaining  houses  with 
the  narrow  front  porch  and  open-work  "veranda  supports"  peculiar  to  early 
Chapel  Hill  dwellings.  A  characteristic  loose  rock  wall  borders  the  lawn. 
For  many  years  this  was  the  home  of  the  Rev.  Dr.  James  Phillips,  mathe- 
matics professor  and  father  of  Cornelia  Phillips  Spencer. 

22.  The  HOOPER  HOUSE  {private),  NE.  corner  Franklin  St.  and  Battle 
Lane,  was  built  in  18 14  by  William  Hooper,  grandson  of  the  signer  of  the 
Declaration  of  Independence  of  the  same  name,  and  once  professor  at  the 
university.  The  original  lines  and  proportions  of  the  frame  structure  are  well 
preserved.  It  has  a  gambrel  roof  and  end  chimneys  which  step  back  unat- 
tached above  the  second  story. 

23.  The  CHAPEL  OF  THE  CROSS  {Episcopal),  Franklin  St.  adjoining 
Spencer  Hall,  has  three  buildings  connected  by  a  cloister.  The  original 
church,  built  with  slave  labor  (1842-46),  is  a  small  brick  building  in  the 
Gothic  Revival  style,  and  contains  an  old  slave  gallery.  The  new  church 
building  and  the  parish  house,  designed  by  Hobart  B.  Upjohn  in  the  same 
style  and  built  in  1924-25,  were  the  gift  of  the  Durham  industrialist,  William 
A.  Erwin,  in  memory  of  his  grandfather,  Dr.  William  R.  Holt.  The  brick 
parish  house  forms  the  rear  of  the  garth,  connecting  the  two  church  buildings. 
The  new  buildings  were  constructed  of  pink  Mount  Airy  granite;  the 
stained-glass  windows  were  designed  by  Bacon,  of  London. 

24.  GRAHAM  MEMORIAL  (1932),  off  Franklin  St.  on  the  old  campus, 
student  union  and  major  center  of  student  activity,  was  a  gift  to  the  uni- 
versity from  alumni  and  friends,  including  an  anonymous  donation  of  $80,000. 
The  red  brick  building  has  an  8-columned  portico  with  balustraded  parapet. 
It  was  named  in  honor  of  Edward  Kidder  Graham,  whose  portrait  hangs  in 
the  lounge  with  those  of  other  university  presidents. 

25.  The  SPRUNT  MEMORIAL  PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCH  (191 8), 
opposite  Graham  Memorial,  is  a  noteworthy  example  of  village  church  archi- 
tecture, designed  by  Hobart  B.  Upjohn  in  the  Wrenn  tradition.  An  oval 
stairway  connects  the  parish  house  with  the  main  body  of  the  church. 

26.  GIMGHOUL  CASTLE,  on  Point  (Piney)  Prospect,  Gimghoul  Rd.,  is 
a  turreted,  native  stone  structure  which  affords  a  sweeping  view  of  the 
countryside.  It  belongs  to  the  Gimghouls,  a  junior  social  order.  Beneath 
Dromgoole  Rock  at  the  castle  entrance,  according  to  college  legend,  is  the 
grave  of  Peter  Dromgoole,  killed  in  a  duel  with  a  fellow  student  over  his 
sweetheart  and  buried  secretly  by  the  terrified  survivor  and  the  seconds. 


POINTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  ENVIRONS 

Fossil  Forest,  3  m.  (see  tour  10);  University  Lake,  3  m.   (see  tour  //);  Duke  Uni- 
versity, 12  m.  (see  durham). 


CHARLOTTE 


Railroad  Stations:  60 1  W.  Trade  St.  for  Southern  Ry.;  401  W.  4th  St.  for  Piedmont  & 
Northern  R.R.;  N.  Tryon  at  13th  St.  for  Seaboard  Air  Line  R.R. 

Bus  Station:  Union  Terminal,  410  W.  Trade  St.,  for  Atlantic  Greyhound,  Carolina  Coach, 
Queen  City  Coach,  and  Smoky  Mountain  Trailways;  Selwyn  Hotel,  132  W.  Trade  St., 
reservations  for  Pan-American   Bus   Line. 

Airports:  Municipal  Airport,  7  m.  W.  on  US  74-29,  for  Eastern  Air  Lines;  Cannon 
Airport,  2.5  m.  W.  on  Tuckaseege  Rd.,  sightseeing  trips. 

Taxis:  Cruisers  10^,  baggage  extra;  cabs  on  call,  four  passengers  25$  within  city  limits. 

City  Buses:  Fare  7^;  meet  on  Independence  Sq. 

Traffic  Regulations:  No  turns  on  Independence  Sq.;  30  min.  parking  in  downtown  sec- 
tion; other  regulations  indicated  by  signs. 

Accommodations:  18  hotels  (2  for  Negroes);  boarding  houses,  tourist  camps. 

Information  Service:  Chamber  of  Commerce,  123  W.  4th  St.;  Carolina  Motor  Club, 
437  S.  Tryon  St. 

Radio  Stations:  WBT  (1080  kc),  WSOC  (1210  kc). 

Theaters  and  Motion   Picture  Houses:   Armory  Auditorium,   310   N.  Cecil   St.,  festivals, 

concerts,    etc.;    Charlotte   Little  Theater,    211    E.    9th    St.,    occasional    productions;    10 

motion  picture  houses  (3  for  Negroes). 
Swimming:  Wilora  Lake,  3  m.  NE.  on  State  27;  Willamette  Pool,  5  m.  SW.  on  US  29; 

Fairview  Pool  for  Negroes,  Fairview  Park,  Martin  St. 
Golf:  Carolina  Golf  Club,  3  m.  SW.  on  US  74-29,  18  holes,  greens  fee,  75^;  Sharon  Golf 

Club,  3  m.  SE.  on  State  262,   18  holes,  greens  fee,  75^;   Hillcrest  Golf  Club,   1412 

Westover,  9  holes,  greens  fee,  40^. 
Baseball:  Hayman's  Field,  off  S.  Mint  St.,  Piedmont  League  (Class  B). 
Football:  Municipal  Stadium,  N.  Cecil  St.  and  Park  Dr. 
Riding:  Marsh-Connell  Riding  Academy,  1  m.  S.  on  US  21. 

Annual  Events:  Golden  Gloves  Boxing  Tournament,  Jan.  or  Feb.;  Kennel  Club  Show, 
Apr.;  Garden  Club  Show,  May;  Food  Show,  usually  in  Sept.;  County  Fair,  Oct.;  Tex- 
tile Show,  variable  date  in  autumn;  North  Carolina-South  Carolina  High  School 
Football  Championship,  1st  Sat.  Dec. 


For  further  information  regarding  this  city,  see  Charlotte,  a  Guide  to  the  Queen 
City  of  North  Carolina,  another  of  the  American  Guide  Series,  sponsored  1939 
by  Hornet's  Nest  Post  No.  9,  American  Legion. 


CHARLOTTE  (732  alt.,  82,675  P°P-)>  trie  population  of  which  more  than 
quadrupled  during  the  first  30  years  of  the  20th  century,  is  characteristic  of 
the  industrial  North  Carolina  Piedmont.  Towering  business  buildings,  great 
warehouses,  and  numerous  factories  betoken  its  importance  as  a  commercial 
and  manufacturing  center.  Near  the  South  Carolina  boundary,  a  score  of 
miles  east  of  the  Appalachian  foothills,  the  city  reaches  into  fertile,  cultivated 
lands  from  which  it  draws  much  of  its  life  and  wealth. 

158 


CHARLOTTE  159 

Independence  Square,  formed  by  the  intersection  of  Trade  and  Tryon 
Streets,  is  the  center  of  the  city,  within  six  blocks  of  which  are  tall  office 
buildings  and  the  principal  stores.  In  the  shadow  of  the  larger  buildings, 
on  side  streets,  are  old  structures  of  dull  red  composition  stone  or  crumbling 
brick,  giving  way  gradually  to  buildings  of  mirrored  surfaces,  expanses  of 
plate  glass,  and  chromium  trim. 

A  few  blocks  north  of  the  square  and  extending  to  the  Seaboard  Air  Line 
passenger  station  are  some  remnants  of  early  Charlotte — old  houses  and 
spreading  lawns,  once  the  charm  of  the  community — most  of  which  have 
disappeared  in  the  expansion  of  the  business  area. 

Fine  old  trees,  landscaping  and  gardening  characterize  the  residential  sec- 
tions of  Eastover,  Myers  Park,  and  Dilworth,  east  and  southeast  of  the  center 
of  the  city,  where  many  of  the  finer  homes  are  situated.  Beyond  these  devel- 
opments are  large  estates,  marking  the  trend  of  the  wealthy  toward  the  coun- 
try. The  bulk  of  the  city's  population  lives  in  middle-class  homes  on  attrac- 
tive, tree -shaded  streets  and  in  the  newer  suburbs. 

Save  on  the  southeastern  edge,  the  city  is  surrounded  by  textile-mill  villages 
where  long  rows  of  square,  identical  four-room  houses  are  occupied  by 
hundreds  of  white  operatives.  These  suburbs,  chiefly  Chadwick-Hoskins  on 
the  west  and  North  Charlotte,  are  sizable  towns  in  themselves,  having  their 
own  stores  and  branch  post  offices. 

Charlotte's  25,163  Negroes,  30  percent  of  the  total  population,  live  in 
scattered,  segregated  districts.  Biddleville,  the  western  suburb  where  Johnson 
C.  Smith  University  is  situated,  contains  the  homes  of  the  business  and  pro- 
fessional groups.  Lying  between  South  McDowell  and  South  Brevard  Streets 
is  Blue  Heaven,  typical  of  the  sections  inhabited  by  the  poorer  Negroes. 
Although  the  bulk  of  the  Negro  population  is  employed  in  common  labor 
and  in  domestic  service,  the  race  is  well  represented  in  business  and  in  the 
professions.  A  religious  publication  firm  and  two  insurance  companies  oc- 
cupy their  own  office  buildings. 

The  present  Charlotte  area  was  occupied  by  the  Catawba  Indians  when 
the  first  permanent  settlers  began  arriving  about  1748 — Scotch-Irish  and  Ger- 
mans who  came  south  through  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia,  and  English, 
Huguenots,  and  Swiss  from  Charleston,  S.  C.  Catawba  and  passing  Cherokee 
Indians  gave  the  settlers  trouble  and  there  were  skirmishes  with  some  hostile 
northern  Indian  allies  of  the  French.  In  1761  the  Catawba  withdrew  into  the 
territory  that  had  been  assigned  them  just  inside  the  South  Carolina  Line 
and  by  1763  the  settlers  were  no  longer  molested  by  the  Indians. 

The  section  was  a  part  of  Anson  County  until  1762  when  Mecklenburg 
County  was  formed.  The  original  conveyance  of  360  acres  for  the  town  site 
was  made  by  Henry  E.  McCulloch,  agent  for  George  A.  Selwyn,  in  1765 
for  "ninety  pounds,  lawful  money."  The  county  seat  was  built  around  a 
log  courthouse  and  chartered  in  1768.  Town  and  county  were  named  for 
Queen  Charlotte  of  Mecklenburg-Strelitz,  wife  of  George  III. 

Fertility  of  the  soil  brought  more  settlers  and  prosperity  to  the  region. 
In  1 77 1  a  college  was  established.  The  area  around  Charlotte  became  a  focal 
point  of  dissatisfaction  with  British  rule  under  Gov.  Josiah  Martin  because 
of  the  imposition  of  ever-increasing  taxes  and  disallowance  of  the  college 


l6o  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

charter  by  the  English  Crown  due  to  Whig  and  Presbyterian  influence  on 
the  board  of  trustees.  Finally,  news  that  the  blood  of  colonists  had  been  shed 
by  the  British  at  Lexington  and  Concord  was  climaxed  by  a  meeting  of  27 
representative  men,  called  by  Col.  Thomas  Polk,  a  military  leader,  county 
assemblyman,  and  great-uncle  of  President  Polk.  The  session  convened  May 
19,  1775.  On  the  following  day,  according  to  local  history,  the  delegates 
affixed  their  signatures  to  a  declaration  of  independence  (Mecklenburg  Dec- 
laration). It  met  with  wild  acclaim  by  the  excited  crowd  milling  about  the 
courthouse.  The  date  is  inscribed  upon  the  State  flag  and  upon  the  Great 
Seal  of  North  Carolina  and  is  observed  as  a  State  holiday. 

Capt.  James  Jack  was  chosen  to  take  the  message  to  Philadelphia  where 
Congress  was  then  sitting.  After  a  hazardous  ride  on  horseback,  partly 
through  Tory  country,  he  arrived  at  the  Congress  only  to  meet  with  refusal 
on  the  part  of  the  members  to  consider  the  measure.  The  records  containing 
the  declaration  were  destroyed  by  fire  in  1800. 

Because  of  the  controversy  that  later  arose  over  the  authenticity  of  the 
Mecklenburg  Declaration,  Captain  Jack  in  18 19  issued  a  statement  attesting 
that  he  rode  to  Philadelphia  with  the  document.  This  statement,  along  with 
those  of  delegates,  is  believed  by  many  to  establish  proof  of  the  genuineness 
of  the  first  declaration  of  independence  in  the  Thirteen  Colonies.  However, 
other  historians  hold  that  there  is  no  evidence  of  the  May  20,  1775  meeting. 
Proof  exists  of  a  meeting  in  Charlotte  on  May  31,  1775,  which  adopted  a 
set  of  resolves  more  moderate  in  tone  than  the  so-called  declaration. 

On  Sept.  26,  1780,  Charlotte  was  occupied  by  the  British  under  Cornwallis, 
but  not  until  the  invader's  advance  had  been  hotly  contested  by  the  local 
militia.  The  Whigs  harassed  the  British  outposts  and  a  number  of  skirmishes 
took  place  in  the  vicinity.  At  the  Mclntyre  Farm,  angry  bees  helped  a  hand- 
ful of  Whigs  to  disperse  the  British  raiders. 

A  week  after  Cornwallis  learned  of  the  defeat  and  death  of  Colonel  Fer- 
guson at  Kings  Mountain  (Oct.  7,  1780),  he  withdrew  into  South  Carolina, 
asserting:  "Let's  get  out  of  here;  this  place  is  a  damned  hornets'  nest."  The 
epithet  is  perpetuated  on  the  city's  seal,  and  in  the  names  of  local  organi- 
zations. 

Shortly  before  the  British  invasion,  13-year-old  Andrew  Jackson,  his 
mother  and  two  brothers  moved  from  the  Waxhaw  settlement,  then  a  part 
of  Mecklenburg  County  where  Andrew  was  born  (1767),  into  South  Caro- 
lina. One  of  the  brothers,  Hugh,  was  killed  at  the  Battle  of  Stono.  Andrew 
and  the  other  brother,  Robert,  were  taken  captives.  Tradition  relates  that 
British  soldiers  ordered  the  boys  to  blacken  the  soldiers'  boots  and  when 
they  refused,  they  were  set  upon  by  the  British  and  severely  wounded.  Robert 
died  from  the  effects  of  his  wounds  and  Mrs.  Jackson  died  a  few  days  later. 
The  future  President  carried  the  scars  of  his  wounds  the  rest  of  his  life. 
He  lived  in  the  Waxhaw  settlement  for  a  few  years,  spending  part  of  his  time 
in  Charlotte. 

President  Washington  visited  the  town  in  1791.  James  Knox  Polk,  nth 
President  (1845-49),  was  horn  near  Charlotte  in  1795. 

At  the  end  of  the  18th  century  Charlotte  was  the  center  of  a  gold  rush 
and  until  the  discovery  of  gold  in  California  in  1848  this  was  the  most 


CHARLOTTE  l6l 

productive  region  in  the  country.  A  branch  of  the  United  States  Mint  was 
built  in  Charlotte  in  1836,  and  with  the  exception  of  the  years  of  the  War 
between  the  States,  was  operated  until  1913. 

Charlotte  and  Mecklenburg  County  sent  several  units  to  the  Confederate 
Army,  including  the  Charlotte  Grays,  the  Hornets'  Nest  Rifles,  and  officers 
of  the  Bethel  Regiment.  The  last  meeting  of  the  Confederate  Cabinet  was 
held  in  the  city  and  at  the  end  of  the  war  there  were  1,200  soldiers  in  local 
hospitals.  While  in  Charlotte,  Jefferson  Davis,  President  of  the  Confederacy, 
learned  of  Lincoln's  assassination  (Apr.  15,  1865). 

The  abolition  of  slavery  and  the  introduction  of  wages  into  the  economy 
of  agriculture  changed  the  principal  occupation  of  this  and  other  sections 
of  the  Piedmont  from  farming  to  manufacturing.  Development  of  enormous 
quantities  of  hydroelectric  power  on  the  Catawba  River,  which  flows  a  short 
distance  west  of  the  city,  aided  the  expansion  of  industry. 

Textile  mills  are  the  lifeblood  of  the  Piedmont  and  in  Charlotte  they  are 
the  barometers  of  prosperity,  though  the  city's  265  manufacturing  plants 
produce  a  wide  variety  of  other  goods.  Its  central  position  and  shipping  facili- 
ties have  made  the  city  the  most  important  distribution  point  in  the  Caro- 
linas.  Numerous  wholesalers  and  jobbers  maintain  warehouses  and  offices 
here  and  employ  fleets  of  trucks  to  transport  materials  over  an  area  of  several 
hundred  square  miles. 

Charlotte  is  headquarters  for  the  Duke  Power  Company's  system  in  North 
and  South  Carolina,  serving  160  communities,  with  3,000  miles  of  high- 
tension  transmission  lines. 

Churches  have  played  a  prominent  part  in  Charlotte's  life.  Founded  by 
staunch  Presbyterians  at  a  time  when  the  Church  of  England  dominated  the 
church  and  school  life  of  the  Colony,  this  has  always  been  a  Calvinist  strong- 
hold. Not  until  1771,  however,  were  Presbyterian  ministers  allowed  to 
perform  marriage  ceremonies.  Virtually  all  denominations  are  now  well  rep- 
resented and  Sunday  observance  has  long  been  a  contention  between  church 
leaders  and  those  who  would  have  a  more  "open"  town. 

Since  the  World  War  there  has  been  an  increasing  interest  in  music,  lit-. 
erature,  the  fine  arts,  and  the  drama.  A  symphony  orchestra  of  60  members 
is  supported  by  popular  subscription.  Queens-Chicora  College  maintains  a 
student  symphony  orchestra.  The  Community  Concert  Association  brings 
artists  to  the  city;  the  Charlotte  Festival  Chorus  of  400  singers  gives  outdoor 
performances  of  light  opera  and  concerts  sponsored  by  the  municipality.  The 
North  Carolina  Poetry  Society  has  a  membership  of  90.  The  Little  Theater 
group  presents  12  programs  each  season  in  its  own  auditorium.  Works  of 
art,  historic  relics,  and  handicraft  products  are  displayed  in  the  Mint 
Museum. 

The  faculty  and  student  body  of  Johnson  C.  Smith  University  exert  an 
important  influence  on  the  cultural  advancement  of  the  Negroes.  The  music 
department  of  the  institution  is  widely  known  and  the  university  quintet 
tours  the  continent  presenting  programs  of  spirituals. 


l62  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

i.  INDEPENDENCE  SQUARE,  at  the  intersection  of  Trade  and  Tryon 
Sts.,  is  the  Site  of  the  First  Courthouse,  indicated  by  a  circular  iron  marker 
at  the  center  of  the  intersection.  The  courthouse,  built  about  1765,  was  a  log 
structure,  set  upon  piers  10  feet  high,  and  had  an  outside  stairway.  The  upper 
floor  was  used  for  sessions  of  court,  church,  and  public  meetings,  while  the 
lower  floor  served  as  a  market  house.  Here  the  Mecklenburg  Declaration  of 
Independence  was  read,  and  here  militiamen  and  armed  citizens  resisted 
the  advance  of  Lord  Cornwallis  and  his  British  regulars.  During  their  occu- 
pancy of  the  city  the  British  damaged  the  courthouse  and  court  was  held 
at  the  home  of  Joseph  Nicholson  until  1782.  The  Site  of  Cornwallis'  Head- 
quarters is  marked  by  a  plaque  in  the  sidewalk  at  the  northeast  corner  of 
Trade  and  Tryon  Streets. 

2.  A  MONUMENT  TO  CAPT.  JAMES  JACK,  211  W.  Trade  St.  marks 
the  site  of  the  tavern  conducted  by  Patrick  Jack,  father  of  "The  Paul  Revere 
of  the  South."  The  stubby  gray  stone  with  a  bronze  plaque  showing  a  rider  in 
bas-relief  bears  the  roster  of  the  Capt.  James  Jack  Chapter  of  the  Children 
of  the  American  Revolution,  who  subscribed  for  the  monument. 

3.  The  FIRST  PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCH,  W.  Trade  St.  between  N. 
Church  and  Poplar  Sts.,  rebuilt  in  1894,  is  a  stuccoed  brick  building  of 
Norman-Gothic  design.  Its  spire  rises  above  old  trees  shading  a  broad  yard 
in  the  midst  of  business  structures.  The  McAden  memorial  window,  on 
the  left  of  the  front  entrance,  is  by  Sir  Edward  Burne-Jones.  In  1815,  when 
this  block  was  set  aside  for  the  church,  the  first  structure  served  all  denomina- 
tions, though  Presbyterians  predominated.  In  1832  this  group  paid  a  small 
debt  and  took  over  the  church.  During  Reconstruction  meetings  of  the  Ku 
Klux  Klan  were  held  in  the  basement,  many  of  Charlotte's  first  citizens 
being  members.  Within  two  years  the  group  came  to  believe  that  the  organi- 
zation was  getting  out  of  hand  and  they  resigned.  Thereafter  meetings  were 
no  longer  held  in  the  church. 

The  Old  Cemetery,  lying  at  the  rear  of  the  church  and  fronting  on  West 
5th  St.,  served  the  town  as  a  common  burying  ground  until  about  1854  and 
was  used  for  interments  by  the  Presbyterians  until  1870.  Among  the  out- 
standing citizens  buried  here  are  Nathaniel  Alexander,  Governor  of  North 
Carolina  (1805-7),  Col.  Thomas  Polk,  and  Gen.  George  Graham.  Many  of 
the  headstones  are  crumbling  from  age.  One  epitaph  reads:  "Her  Breach 
in  the  Social  Circle  Will  Long  Be  Severely  Missed." 

4.  The  SHIPP  MONUMENT,  corner"  S.  Mint  St.  and  W.  4th  St.  at  the 
rear  of  the  post  office,  memorializes  the  military  reinstatement  of  the  South- 
ern States  after  the  War  between  the  States.  The  granite  shaft  is  30  feet  high 
and  weighs  15  tons.  Lt.  William  Ewen  Shipp,  the  first  southerner  graduated 
from  West  Point  after  the  conflict,  chose  service  with  the  10th  Cavalry 
(Negro),  and  was  killed  in  the  Battle  of  Santiago,  Cuba,  July  2,  1898.  His 


CHARLOTTE  163 

body  was  interred  at  Lincolnton.  Subscriptions  to  defray  the  cost  of  the 
monument  were  made  by  school  children  throughout  the  State. 

5.  The  BIRTHPLACE  OF  JULIA  JACKSON  (private),  832  W.  5th  St., 
built  in  the  1820's,  is  a  two-story,  white  frame  structure  of  Classic  Revival 
design,  with  a  wide  Ionic  portico  and  green  blinds.  Here  Mrs.  Anna  Jack- 
son, wife  of  Gen.  Stonewall  Jackson,  came  from  Virginia  to  live  with  her 
sister,  Mrs.  James  P.  Irwin,  and  here  the  general's  only  daughter,  Julia,  was 
born  Nov.  23,  1862.  Two  other  sisters  of  Mrs.  Jackson  married  men  who 
became  Confederate  generals:  D.  H.  Hill  and  Rufus  Barringer. 

6.  The  CHARLOTTE  PUBLIC  LIBRARY  (open  9-9  weekdays  except 
Wed.,  9-1),  310  N.  Tryon  St.,  is  a  stone  building  designed  in  the  Renaissance 
manner,  with  a  four-column  central  portico  rising  the  full  height  of  the 
building.  On  each  side  of  the  portico  are  three  tall  arched  window  openings 
with  pilasters  between.  The  hip  roof  has  a  square  base  at  its  center  and  is 
surmounted  by  a  dome.  The  library  contains  the  collection  of  Gen.  Stone- 
wall Jackson,  a  small  library  of  only  300  volumes,  but  of  a  diversity  that 
reveals  the  intellectual  depth  of  a  man  remembered  principally  for  his  mili- 
tary genius — and  the  Bessie  MacLean  Memorial  Collection  of  Musical  Ref- 


7.  The  HOME  OF  WILLIAM  PHIFER  (closed),  722  N.  Tryon  St., 
built  in  1848-52,  was  the  scene  of  the  last  meeting  of  the  Confederate  Cab- 
inet (Apr.  20,  1865).  The  session  convened  at  what  is  now  122  South  Tryon 
Street  but  adjourned  to  the  Phifer  house  to  consult  with  Secretary  of  the 
Treasury  George  A.  Trenholm,  who  was  ill  and  a  guest  in  the  home.  The 
two-story,  square,  brick  building  with  square  tower  and  cupola  was  closed 
about  1915.  Plans  were  being  considered  in  1939  for  restoring  the  building. 

8.  The  LITTLE  THEATER  (open;  apply  to  director),  211  E.  9th  St., 
occupies  the  auditorium  of  the  old  Presbyterian  College  building,  which  was 
converted  into  the  College  Apartments.  The  theater  section  has  a  portico 


Key  to  Charlotte  Map 

1.  Independence  Square.  2.  Monument  to  Capt.  James  Jack.  3.  The  First  Presbyterian 
Church.  4.  The  Shipp  Monument.  5.  The  Birthplace  of  Julia  Jackson.  6.  The 
Charlotte  Public  Library.  7.  The  Home  of  William  Phifer.  8.  The  Little  Theater. 
9.  The  Public  Buildings.  10.  The  Site  of  the  Confederate  Navy  Yard.  n.  The  Site  of 
Liberty  Hall  Academy.  12.  The  Mint  Museum.  13.  The  Martin  L.  Cannon  Residence. 
14.  The  Queens-Chicora  College  for  Women.  15.  Dilworth  Methodist  Church.  16.  The 
Tulip  Gardens.     17.  The  Rudisill  Gold  Mine.     18.  Johnson  C.  Smith  University. 

a.  Post  Office,  b.  Chamber  of  Commerce,  c.  Carolina  Motor  Club.  d.  Southern  Ry. 
Station,  e.  Piedmont  &  Northern  R.R.  Station,  f.  Seaboard  Air  Line  R.R.  Station. 
g.  Union  Bus  Station,  h.  Armory  Auditorium.  1.  Municipal  Stadium,  k.  Hyman's 
Field  (baseball),  l.  Independence  Park.  m.  Latta  Park.  n.  Bryant  Park.  o.  Carolina 
Golf  Club.  p.  Sharon  Golf  Club.  q.  Hillcrest  Golf  Club.  r.  Charlotte  Country  Club. 
s.  Myers  Park  Golf  Club.     t.  Municipal  Airport,     u.  Cannon  Airport. 


CHARLOTTE 

1939 


l66  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

with  Ionic  columns,  and  seats  about  400.  The  theater  has  a  membership 
of  more  than  900,  and  publishes  its  own  magazine.  The  group  presents  six 
major  productions  and  six  workshop  programs  each  season. 

9.  The  PUBLIC  BUILDINGS  (C.  C.  Hook,  architect),  600-700  blocks  of 
E.  Trade  St.,  erected  in  the  early  1920's,  are  in  a  landscaped  setting.  The 
City  Hall,  of  modified  classic  design  with  limestone  exterior  and  fireproof 
construction,  houses  the  offices  of  mayor,  city  manager,  and  various  depart- 
ments and  contains  the  council  chamber.  Three  other  buildings  of  the  munici- 
pal group  are  of  gray  brick  with  limestone  trim,  standing  behind  the  city 
hall  and  harmonizing  in  design.  The  County  Courthouse,  of  neoclassic 
design,  contains  the  county  executive  offices,  superior  and  county  court  rooms, 
and  the  county  jail.  In  the  plaza  at  the  entrance  is  a  Monument  to  the 
Signers  of  the  Mecklenburg  Declaration,  a  granite  shaft  erected  in  1898 
and  moved  from  the  former  courthouse  to  the  present  site. 

10.  The  SITE  OF  THE  CONFEDERATE  NAVY  YARD  is  indicated  by 
a  marker  on  the  wall  of  the  railway  underpass  near  226  E.  Trade  St.  In 
May  1862  it  was  decided  to  move  the  center  of  naval  ordnance  from  Norfolk, 
Va.,  to  Charlotte,  which  had  the  advantage  of  safety  from  invasion  from  the 
sea  yet  rail  connection  with  the  port  of  Wilmington. 

11.  The  SITE  OF  LIBERTY  HALL  ACADEMY  is  commemorated  by  a 
marker  at  the  SE.  corner  of  3rd  and  S.  Tryon  Sts.,  now  occupied  by  a  filling 
station.  Until  the  early  1920's  the  county  courthouse  stood  on  the  site.  In 
December  1770  Governor  Tryon  suggested  to  the  assembly  that  a  school  for 
higher  learning  was  needed  in  the  back  country.  Within  a  month  a  bill  was 
enacted  providing  for  the  establishment  of  Queen's  College  in  Charlotte. 
Controversy  over  land  titles  and  the  Regulator  movement  hampered  progress. 
In  June  1773  Governor  Martin  issued  a  proclamation  to  the  effect  that  the 
King  had  disallowed  the  charter.  A  local  historian  states  that  "the  King 
objected  to  the  number  of  dissenting  ministers  among  the  trustees,"  and 
complained  that  "a  College  under  such  auspices  was  well  calculated  to  ensure 
the  growth  of  a  numerous  democracy." 

The  school  continued  in  spite  of  fruitless  efforts  to  obtain  a  charter  under 
the  name  of  Queen's  Museum.  The  meetings  that  led  to  the  drafting  of  the 
Mecklenburg  Declaration  were  held  in  the  building.  Diplomas  were  issued 
under  the  name  of  Queen's  Museum  in  1776,  but  soon  after,  for  patriotic 
reasons,  the  name  was  changed  to  Liberty  Hall  Academy,  and  thus  it  was 
incorporated  in  1777.  When  Cornwallis  occupied  the  town  in  1780  he 
burned  the  building. 

12.  The  MINT  MUSEUM  (open  10-5  Tues.-Sat.;  3-5  Sun.),  corner  Hamp- 
stead  Place  and  Eastover  Rd.,  now  an  art  gallery,  was  reconstructed  from 
materials  of  the  original  branch  of  the  United  States  Mint,  being  an  almost 
exact  reproduction.  The  original  building  was  designed  by  William  Strick- 
land (1787-1854)  of  Philadelphia,  who  was  architect  for  the  United  States 
Customhouse,  the  Masonic  Temple,  and  the  Merchants  Exchange  in  Phila- 


CHARLOTTE  167 

delphia.  Designed  in  the  Federal  style,  the  two-story  structure  is  T-shaped 
in  plan,  the  stem  of  the  letter  forming  a  long  well-proportioned  gallery  on 
the  main  floor.  The  cross  arm  is  formed  by  the  foyer  with  rooms  to  the 
right  and  left  of  the  entrance.  The  interior  has  vaulted  ceilings  and  walls  of 
local  stone. 

The  long  facade  of  the  central  section  is  broken  by  a  severe  pedimented 
portico  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps.  Beneath  the  sloping  eaves  of  the 
pediment  a  golden  American  eagle  is  perched  with  outspread  wings.  Stuart 
Warren  Cramer,  Sr.,  assayer  of  the  mint  (1889-93),  wr°te:  "This  eagle  was 
a  landmark  in  Charlotte  when  I  first  came  here  and  a  pet  of  Charlotte  people, 
as  well  it  might  be,  for  it  was  perhaps  the  largest  eagle  in  the  world, 
being  14  feet  from  tip  to  tip,  and  five  feet  high.  When  I  had  to  re- 
decorate it,  it  took  over  165  books  of  gold  leaf  and  10  books  of  silver  leaf 
to  cover  it." 

The  assay  office,  established  as  a  coinage  mint  in  1835,  began  operations 
two  years  later.  It  served  the  gold-producing  districts  of  the  southern  Ap- 
palachian region,  at  that  time  the  only  gold-yielding  territory  in  the  country. 
The  new  building  was  occupied  in  1845.  During  the  War  between  the  States 
it  served  as  Confederate  headquarters  and  hospital.  Closed  in  1913,  the 
structure  was  razed  in  1933  and  rebuilt  on  the  present  site  the  following 
year.  In  the  galleries  are  exhibited  historic  relics,  ceramics,  native  and  foreign 
handicrafts.  The  works  of  art  include  a  canvas,  Madonna  and  Child,  by 
Francesco  Granacci,  from  the  Samuel  H.  Kress  collection. 

13.  The  MARTIN  L.  CANNON  RESIDENCE  {grounds  open  by  permis- 
sion), 400  Hermitage  Rd.,  is  the  former  home  of  James  B.  Duke,  tobacco 
and  power  magnate  {see  Durham).  The  original  house,  erected  by  Z.  V. 
Taylor  about  19 15,  was  purchased  in  1920  by  Mr.  Duke  who  enlarged  and 
remodeled  it.  The  landscaped  10-acre  estate,  from  early  spring  to  fall,  blooms 
with  flaming  azalea,  pink  and  white  dogwood,  and  other  plants  and  shrubs. 

14.  QUEENS-CHICORA  COLLEGE  (Women)  {buildings  open  during 
school  hours),  between  Queens  Road  and  Radcliffe  Ave.,  has  seven  buildings 
of  dark  red  brick  trimmed  with  white  stone,  on  a  large  wooded  campus. 
Its  small  sorority  houses  are  of  the  bungalow  type.  This  institution  was 
founded  in  1857  as  the  Charlotte  Female  Academy,  and  first  occupied  a 
building  on  North  College  Street.  Continuing  under  various  names  until 
closed  in  1890,  it  was  reopened  in  1895  as  the  Presbyterian  College  for 
Women.  In  1912  the  name  was  changed  to  Queen's  College,  in  honor  of  the 
Colonial  institution,  and  the  college  was  moved  to  its  present  site.  In  1930 
it  was  consolidated  with  Chicora  College  of  Columbia,  S.  C,  and  the  present 
name  was  taken.  Operated  by  the  Presbyteries  of  Mecklenburg,  Kings  Moun- 
tain, and  Greenville  in  the  Synods  of  North  Carolina  and  South  Carolina, 
the  college  has  an  enrollment  of  about  350  and  is  a  member  of  the  Southern 
Association  of  Grade  A  Colleges. 

15.  DILWORTH  METHODIST  CHURCH,  603  E.  Boulevard,  a  lime- 
stone structure  of  English  Gothic  design  with  lofty  twin  towers,  was  erected 


l68  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

in  1922  with  funds  raised  by  private  subscription  and  augmented  by  a  con- 
tribution of  the  Duke  Foundation. 

16.  The  TULIP  GARDENS  {open  during  blooming  season  in  March),  at 
the  residence  of  J.  B.  Ivey,  1628  E.  Morehead  St.,  contain  about  20,000  plants 
in  numerous  varieties  that  bloom  usually  the  last  two  weeks  of  March. 
Plantings  of  tulips  border  the  walks  and  driveway.  Each  variety  is  marked 
for  the  information  of  visitors. 

17.  The  RUDISILL  GOLD  MINE  {closed),  corner  Gold  and  Mint  Sts.,  pro- 
duced from  40  to  60  tons  of  ore  per  day  averaging  about  $12  a  ton  until  the 
company  suspended  work  in  1938  on  account  of  the  low  gold  content.  Hav- 
ing operated  from  1826  until  the  California  rush,  the  mine  lay  inactive  until 
1934  when  operations  were  resumed. 

18.  JOHNSON  C.  SMITH  UNIVERSITY  (Negro)  {buildings  open  dur- 
ing school  hours),  entrance  on  Beatties  Ford  Rd.,  between  Martin  and 
Mill  Sts.,  occupies  an  85-acre  wooded  campus  with  22  buildings  most  of 
which  are  of  Greek  Revival  design.  Degrees  are  conferred  in  liberal  arts, 
science,  and  theological  courses.  A  premedical  course  is  under  supervision 
of  a  branch  of  the  American  Medical  Association.  Students  from  other  col- 
leges make  use  of  the  well-equipped  laboratories.  The  senior  division  of  the 
College  of  Liberal  Arts  is  coeducational.  The  library  has  an  extensive  musical 
collection,  including  facsimiles  of  the  original  manuscripts  of  Stephen  Collins 
Foster.  Although  controlled  by  the  Presbyterian  Church  of  the  U.S.A.,  the 
university  is  nonsectarian.  Student  enrollment  is  about  350. 

The  first  land  acquired  was  by  gift  of  Col.  William  R.  Myers,  a  former 
slave  owner,  who  saw  the  need  of  educational  facilities  for  the  Negro  race. 
When  founded  in  1867  the  school  was  known  as  Biddle  Memorial  Institute. 
In  recognition  of  a  substantial  endowment  made  by  the  widow  of  Johnson  C. 
Smith  of  Pittsburgh,  Pa.,  the  present  name  was  adopted  in  1923.  James  B. 
Duke  made  a  large  contribution  to  the  institution  in  1925. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  ENVIRONS 

Sugaw  Creek  Crossroads  (Revolutionary  battle),  3  m.  {see  tour  12);  Birthplace  of 
James  K.  Polk,  12  m.  {see  tour  16);  St.  Joseph's  Church,  15  m.,  Rhyne  Homestead, 
16  m.  {see  tour  19A);  Mclntyre  Farm  (Battle  of  the  Bees),  6.5  m.,  Capps  Hill  Gold 
Mine,  6  m.,  Old  Hopewell  Church,  10  m.,  Birthplace  of  Andrew  Jackson,  26  m.  {see 
tour  31b);  Steel  Creek  Church,  9  m.,  Belmont  Abbey  and  schools,  14  m.  {see  tour 
Sic);  Wallis  Rock  House,  5  m.  {see  tour  32). 


DURHAM 


Railroad  Station:  Union  Station,  Peabody  St.  for  Southern  Ry.,  Seaboard  Air  Line  R.R., 
Norfolk  Southern  R.R.,  Norfolk  &  Western  R.R.,  Durham  &  Southern  R.R. 

Bus  Station:  Mangum,  Chapel  Hill,  and  Riggsbee  Sts.  for  Atlantic  Greyhound,  Carolina 
Coach,  Virginia  Stage  Line,  and  Queen  City  Bus. 

Taxis:  25^-45^,  1-5  passengers. 

City  Buses:  io(\  4  tokens  for  25^;  meet  at  Five  Points. 

Accommodations:  8  hotels  (2  for  Negroes) ;  boarding  houses,  tourist  camps.  Duke  Uni- 
versity cafeteria  open  to  public. 

Information  Service:  Chamber  of  Commerce,  Washington  Duke  Hotel,  207  N.  Corcoran 
St.,  Market  St.  entrance;  Carolina  Motor  Club,  206  E.  Chapel  Hill  St. 

Radio  Station:  WDNC  (1500  kc). 

Theaters  and  Motion  Picture  Houses:  Carolina  Theater,  corner  Roney  and  Morgan  Sts., 
opera,  legitimate  plays;  Page  Auditorium,  Duke  campus,  concerts,  lectures;  Little 
Theater,  1st  floor  City  Hall,  120-24  Morris  St.,  lectures,  musicales,  amateur  productions; 
Erwin  Auditorium,  corner  W.  Peabody  St.  and  Erwin  Rd.,  W.  Durham,  plays,  con- 
certs; 6  motion  picture  houses  (1  for  Negroes). 

Swimming:  Duke  Park,  end  of  N.  Mangum  St.,  US  501;  Forest  Hills  Clubhouse,  1639 
University  Dr.;  Crystal  Lake  Park,  6  m.  NW.  on  Guess  Rd. 

Golf:  Hope  Valley  Country  Club,  4  m.  SW.  on  Chapel  Hill  Rd.  (US  15-501),  18  holes, 
greens  fee,  fi  weekdays,  $1.50  Sat.  and  Sun.;  Hillandale  Golf  Club,  2  m.  NW.  on 
US  70,  18  holes,  greens  fee,  50^  women,  $1  men. 

Tennis:  Forest  Hills  Park,  Duke  Park,  Hope  Valley  Club,  Duke  University  courts. 

Hunting  and  Fishing:  Inquire  Chamber  of  Commerce. 

Baseball:  El  Toro  Park  (municipally  owned),  N.  end  Morris  St.,  Piedmont  League 
(Class  B). 

Football:  Duke  Stadium. 

Riding:  Fisher  Riding  Academy,  2  m.  W.  on  S.  Erwin  Rd.;  Hope  Valley  Riding  Club, 
6  m.  SW.  on  Hope  Valley  Rd. 

Polo:  1  m.  N.  on  US  501. 

Annual  Events:  Kennel  Club  Show,  Apr.;  Flower  Show,  May;  Carillon  Recitals  by  Anton 
Brees,  Thursdays  at  dusk  and  Sundays,  4:30  p.m.,  June-Sept.;  Horse  Show,  Sept.; 
County  Fair,  3rd  wk.  Sept.;  Dahlia  Show,  Oct. 

DURHAM  (405  alt.,  52,037  pop.),  is  a  modern  industrial  city  in  the  eastern 
Piedmont.  The  universal  demand  for  tobacco,  coupled  with  the  business 
genius  of  the  Duke  family,  is  exemplified  in  long  rows  of  red-faced  factories 
where  thousands  toil  daily,  filling  whole  trains  with  their  products.  Here  was 
created  the  fortune  that  endowed  Duke  University. 

Three  streets  converge  at  Five  Points,  center  of  the  business  district,  which 
in  the  1860's  was  a  country  crossroads.  A  few  skyscrapers  along  the  principal 
streets  tower  above  crowded  rows  of  lesser  buildings.  The  great  tobacco  fac- 
tories lie  close  to  the  heart  of  the  business  district  and  the  railroad  tracks  that 
serve  them  cross  up-town  streets. 

Many  of  the  finer  homes  are  in  the  southwest  part  of  the  city  along  Chapel 

169 


I70  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

Hill  Road  and  beyond  in  the  Hope  Valley  subdivision.  Commonplace  dwell- 
ings throughout  the  town  house  the  families  of  mill  and  factory  workers. 
In  South  Durham  is  a  section  known  as  Hayti,  where  12,000  Negroes  live  and 
operate  their  own  business  firms. 

The  two  campuses  of  Duke  University  lie  to  the  northwest  and  west  of 
the  city's  center.  Throughout  the  town  are  parks  and  playgrounds  for  both 
races. 

Often  the  air  is  permeated  by  the  pungent  scent  of  tobacco  from  the  stem- 
meries,  and  the  sweetish  odor  of  tonka  bean  used  in  cigarette  manufacture. 
From  9  to  5  o'clock  Durham's  streets  reflect  the  activity  of  its  business  houses 
and  professional  offices.  Then  the  hoarse  bellow  of  the  bull  whistle  at  the 
American  Tobacco  factory  reverberates  over  the  town,  joined  by  the  shriek- 
ing blasts  of  the  Liggett  and  Myers  whistle.  The  iron  gates  of  the  factory 
yards  are  flung  wide  and  an  army  of  workers  pours  forth — men  and  women, 
white  and  colored.  Buses  and  trucks,  heavily  laden,  rumble  along  the  thor- 
oughfares. For  an  hour  or  two  the  streets  are  alive  with  the  hurry  and  noise 
of  a  big  city.  Then  the  bustle  subsides  and  relative  calm  is  resumed. 

The  region  around  Durham  was  occupied  by  the  Occoneechee,  Eno,  Schoc- 
coree,  and  Adshusheer  Indians,  who  had  migrated  elsewhere  before  1750 
when  the  first  white  settlers,  of  English  and  Scotch-Irish  extraction,  secured 
land  grants  from  the  Earl  of  Granville.  The  section  was  then  a  part  of  Orange 
County,  and  by  1777  contained  only  a  few  hundred  inhabitants. 

Durham  is  new  by  North  Carolina  reckoning,  dating  from  the  1850's 
when  a  settlement  known  as  Prattsburg  contained  wheat  and  corn  mills  serv- 
ing the  farmers.  Construction  of  the  North  Carolina  Railroad  in  1852-56 
gave  some  impetus  to  growth.  William  Pratt,  a  large  landowner,  refused  to 
give  a  right-of-way  or  land  for  a  station.  Dr.  Bartlett  Durham  offered  4  acres 
about  2  miles  west  of  Prattsburg  and  the  station  was  named  for  him.  The 
railroad  detoured  around  Prattsburg  and  the  Pratt  property. 

The  town  of  Durham  was  incorporated  in  1867,  and  when  Durham  County 
was  created  from  Orange  and  Wake  in  1881,  it  was  made  the  seat.  In  1865 
there  were  fewer  than  100  people  in  Durham,  but  by  1880  the  number  had 
increased  to  2,041.  In  the  spring  of  1865  Gen.  Joseph  E.  Johnston  surrendered 
to  Gen.  William  T.  Sherman  at  the  Bennett  House  near  Durham. 

The  rise  of  the  tobacconists  marked  the  beginning  of  the  town's  industrial 
life.  As  early  as  1858  Robert  F.  Morris  was  manufacturing  tobacco.  Sher- 
man's soldiers  liked  the  product  of  this  factory,  which  in  1865  was  being 
operated  by  John  R.  Green,  originator  of  the  Bull  Durham  blend;  later 
William  T.  Blackwell  joined  the  business. 

Meanwhile  Washington  Duke,  mustered  out  of  the  Confederate  Army  in 
1865,  walked  137*  miles  to  his  old  farm  near  Durham  to  start  life  over  again. 
He  began  grinding  tobacco,  which  he  packed,  labeled  Pro  Bono  Publico,  and 
sold  to  soldiers  and  others.  This  venture  proved  so  successful  that  soon  he  was 
joined  by  his  three  sons,  Brodie,  Benjamin  N.,  and  James  B.  (Buck);  by 
1874  a^  f°ur  were  established  in  Durham  as  manufacturers  of  smoking  to- 
bacco. To  escape  the  sharp  competition  in  this  field,  "Buck"  Duke  decided 
to  start  making  cigarettes,  which  by  1880  had  become  important.  A  few 
years  later  the  installation  of  cigarette  machines  increased  daily  production 


DURHAM  171 

from  2,500  to  100,000  and  made  large-scale  exportation  to  Europe  pos- 
sible. 

After  a  period  of  sharp  competition,  during  which  Blackwell  and  others 
were  gradually  absorbed,  the  Duke  organizing  genius  formed  (1890)  the 
American  Tobacco  Company,  embracing  practically  the  entire  tobacco  indus- 
try in  the  United  States,  with  James  B.  Duke  as  its  guiding  spirit.  The  adver- 
tising campaign  inaugurated  about  that  time  was  unusually  comprehensive. 
Billboards,  signs,  and  even  cliffs  displayed  the  giant  figure  of  the  Bull  of 
Durham.  When  Anne  Thackeray  called  upon  Lord  Tennyson  "she  found 
the  poet  laureate  peacefully  smoking  Bull  Durham." 

In  191 1  the  American  Tobacco  Company  was  dissolved  into  smaller  units 
as  a  result  of  a  decree  by  the  United  States  Supreme  Court,  but  by  that  time 
the  Duke  fortune  was  firmly  founded  and  Durham  was  established  as  the 
world's  tobacco  capital.  The  city  manufactures  about  one-fourth  of  all  the 
cigarettes  produced  in  this  country  and  nine  warehouses  conduct  sales  of 
leaf  tobacco.  In  addition  to  this  domestic  supply,  several  million  pounds  of 
foreign-grown  tobaccos  are  imported  annually. 

James  B.  Duke  did  with  tobacco  what  Rockefeller  did  with  oil  and  Car- 
negie with  steel.  Through  bartering  at  crossroads  he  became  adept  at  trade. 
Unwilling  to  spend  much  time  in  school,  he  did  not  consider  college  training 
essential  to  success.  After  amassing  a  fortune,  however,  he  provided  the 
means  for  establishing  a  great  university.  In  the  latter  part  of  his  life  he 
engaged  in  the  development  of  water  power  in  the  Piedmont  and  Mountain 
sections  of  North  and  South  Carolina.  The  Southern  Power  System  (the 
Duke  Power  Company  and  its  subsidiaries)  was  the  result. 

In  December  1924  the  Duke  Endowment  of  $40,000,000  for  numerous 
benefactions,  including  aid  for  hospitals  but  particularly  for  Duke  University, 
was  announced.  Mr.  Duke  died  the  following  October  and  by  the  provisions 
of  his  will  the  endowment  was  increased  to  nearly  $80,000,000.  This  benefac- 
tion is  the  largest  emanating  from  the  South  and  the  largest  yet  made  for 
the  exclusive  benefit  of  the  region. 

The  other  large  industries  of  Durham  are  cotton-textile  and  hosiery  mills. 
In  all  some  87  manufacturing  establishments  employ  13,000  persons.  The 
city  is  an  important  medical  center. 

Notable  in  Durham  is  the  status  of  the  Negro  population.  The  Negroes 
have  a  college  and  operate  business  firms,  including  banks,  a  large  insur- 
ance company,  schools,  newspapers,  a  library,  and  a  hospital.  In  1887  Negroes 
owned  but  two  lots  in  the  city  and  1,366  acres  in  the  county.  In  1935  their 
city  holdings  alone  amounted  to  more  than  $4,000,000,  and  their  business 
assets  aggregated  $7,000,000.  Negro  industry  has  expanded  since  1865  from 
a  single  blacksmith  shop  owned  by  Lewis  Pratt,  a  former  slave.  Gen.  Julian 
S.  Carr  lent  the  Negro  John  Merrick  money  to  start  his  business  career,  first 
as  a  barber  then  as  a  real  estate  investor.  Washington  Duke  gave  the  print- 
ing press  used  in  publishing  the  first  Negro  newspaper.  White  bankers 
helped  organize  the  first  Negro  bank. 

The  North  Carolina  Mutual  Life  Insurance  Company  has  grown  from 
a  small  beginning  in  1898  into  the  largest  Negro  insurance  company  in  the 
world,  operating  in  eight  States  and  employing  1,067  persons.  Oldest  among 


172  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

the  23  churches  for  Negroes  in  the  city  are  St.  Joseph's  African  Methodist 
Episcopal,  and  the  White  Rock  Baptist. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  The  DURHAM  HOSIERY  PLANT  {open  by  permission),  115  S.  Cor- 
coran St.,  manufactures  full-fashioned  and  seamless  silk  hosiery  and  cotton 
socks.  A  branch  mill  on  Walker  Street  spins  cotton  yarn.  In  1925  the  plant 
was  the  largest  producer  of  hosiery  in  the  country — 300,000  pairs  per  day. 
About  1,000  persons  are  normally  employed. 

2.  TRINITY  M.E.  CHURCH  (1922),  W.  corner  Church  and  Liberty  Sts., 
was  designed  in  the  neo-Gothic  style  by  Ralph  Adams  Cram.  It  is  built  of 
rough  local  stone  with  semicircular  steps  and  stained-glass  windows. 

3.  The  DURHAM  PUBLIC  LIBRARY  {open  10-6  Mon,Fri.,  g-g  Sat.), 
311  E.  Main  St.,  erected  in  1921,  contains  about  27,000  volumes  and  a  col- 
lection of  foreign  dolls.  It  was  first  opened  at  Five  Points  in  1898. 

4.  The  EPHPHATHA  EPISCOPAL  CHURCH,  NW.  corner  Geer  and 
North  Sts.,  is  one  of  four  churches  in  the  United  States  built  exclusively  for 
deaf-mutes.  Services  are  in  the  sign  language. 

5.  THE  LIGGETT  AND  MYERS  PLANT  {open  8-11,  1-4  Mon.-FrL; 
guides),  W.  Main  between  Cigarette  and  Fuller  Sts.,  produces  Chesterfield, 
Picayune,  and  other  cigarettes,  as  well  as  smoking  tobaccos.  Acres  of  brick 
buildings,  mostly  three  stories  in  height,  contain  the  mass  of  machinery  that 
processes  the  tobacco  from  redrying  the  "hands"  to  the  packed  products. 
After  aging  in  storage  for  two  or  three  years  the  tobacco  is  carefully  blended 
and  placed  in  the  hoppers  of  cigarette  machines  where  it  is  encircled  by 
cigarette  paper,  and  issues  as  a  continuous  cylinder  to  be  cut  into  proper 
lengths.  Each  machine  turns  out  1,200  cigarettes  a  minute.  After  inspection 
the  cigarettes  are  transferred  to  another  machine  for  packaging  and  then 
to  another  for  incasing  in  cellophane  covers.  Finally  cases  filled  with  cartons 
are  loaded  into  freight  cars  from  conveyor  belts. 

6.  The  ERWIN  COTTON  MILLS  {not  open  to  public),  between  9th  and 
14th  Sts.,  Mulberry  St.  to  Hillsboro  Rd.,  manufacture  wide  sheeting,  sheets, 
and  pillow  cases.  Denims  are  made  at  the  company  mills  in  Erwin;  outing 
flannels,  suitings,  coverts,  and  ticking  in  the  mill  at  Cooleemee.  The  three 
local  mills  employ  1,800  workers,  most  of  whom  occupy  company-owned 
houses  around  the  mills.  The  Erwin  Auditorium  (1922)  contains  a  library, 
reading  room,  and  game  room.  Since  1892,  when  the  Erwin  chain  of  mills 
began  making  muslin  tobacco  bags,  it  has  become  the  second  largest  con- 
cern in  the  State  manufacturing  cotton  goods. 

7.  The  DUKE  MEMORIAL  M.E.  CHURCH  (1914),  500  Chapel  Hill  St., 
of  cream-colored  pressed  brick  with  limestone  trim,  is  designed  in  a  modified 


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OLD  EAST  AND  THE  WELL,  CHAPEL   HILL 


PLAYMAKERS    THEATER,    CHAPEL    HILL 

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CARILLON   TOWER,   DUKE   UNIVERSITY 


EAST  CAMPUS,   DUKE  UNIVERSITY 


WAIT  HALL,   WAKE   FOREST  COLLEGE 


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CHAMBERS    BUILDING,   DAVIDSON    COLLEGE 


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PERFORMANCE    IN    FOREST    THEATER,    CHAPEL    HILL 
MINT  MUSEUM  OF  ART.  CHARLOTTE 


JEFFERSON    STANDARD   BUILDING, 
GREENSBORO 


OFFICE   BUILDING,   R.    J.   REYNOLDS 
TOBACCO     CO.,     WINSTON-SALEM 


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COTTON   MILLS   ON   TAR  RIVER,   ROCKY   MOUNT 


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TRYON  STREET,  LOOKING  NORTH,  CHARLOTTE 


CUSTOM   HOUSE,   WILMINGTON 


ASHEVILLE   FROM   BEAUCATCHER   MOUNTAIN 


DURHAM  173 

English  Gothic  style.  Chimes  in  the  tower  were  given  by  Mrs.  J.  Edward 
Stagg,  granddaughter  of  Washington  Duke,  as  a  memorial  to  her  husband. 
They  are  played  each  day  at  noon. 

8.  In  old  MAPLEWOOD  CEMETERY,  both  sides  of  Chapel  Hill  St.,  S.  of 
Duke  University  Rd.,  is  the  mausoleum  of  the  Duke  family,  an  austere 
building  shadowed  by  overhanging  trees;  and  the  grave  of  Gen.  Julian  S. 
Carr  (1845-1924),  who  made  a  fortune  in  the  tobacco  business,  contributed 
to  Trinity  and  other  colleges,  helped  equip  and  maintain  two  Durham 
companies  in  the  Spanish-American  War,  and  was  prominent  in  the  affairs 
of  the  Methodist  Church,  the  Democratic  party,  and  the  Confederate 
veterans. 

9.  The  AMERICAN  TOBACCO  COMPANY  PLANT  {open  g-11,  2-3 
weekdays;  guides),  SW.  corner  Pettigrew  and  Blackwell  Sts.,  manufactures 
Bull  Durham  smoking  tobacco,  Lucky  Strike,  and  some  35  other  brands  of 
cigarettes  and  smoking  tobaccos.  It  employs  about  2,500  persons.  Although 
this  is  the  smallest  unit  for  production  of  Lucky  Strikes,  the  plant  manu- 
factures about  5,000,000  of  these  cigarettes  an  hour.  The  entire  process  from 
the  "toasting"  to  the  packed  product  is  handled  by  machinery. 

10.  The  DURHAM  COTTON  MANUFACTURING  PLANT  (open, 
apply  at  office),  2002  E.  Pettigrew  St.,  is  a  continuation  of  the  community's 
first  textile  mill,  established  in  1884.  Various  kinds  of  colored  cotton  cloth 
are  manufactured  by  a  force  normally  numbering  400. 

11.  The  PUBLIC  LIBRARY  FOR  NEGROES  (open  10-8  Mon.-Fri.,  9-6 
Sat.),  501  S.  Fayetteville  St.,  was  established  by  Dr.  A.  M.  Moore  in  1913. 
From  a  small  Sunday  school  library  in  the  White  Rock  Baptist  Church  it 
has  grown  to  7,000  volumes. 

12.  The  NORTH  CAROLINA  COLLEGE  FOR  NEGROES  (coeduca- 
tional), 191 1  S.  Fayetteville  St.,  is  housed  in  eight  buildings  on  a  50-acre 


Key  to  Durham  Map 

1.  The  Durham  Hosiery  Plant.  2.  Trinity  M.  E.  Church.  3.  The  Durham  Public 
Library.  4.  The  Ephphatha  Episcopal  Church.  5.  The  Liggett  and  Myers  Plant.  6.  The 
Erwin  Cotton  Mills.  7.  The  Duke  Memorial  M.E.  Church.  8.  Maplewood  Cemetery. 
9.  The  American  Tobacco  Company  Plant.  10.  The  Durham  Cotton  Manufacturing 
Plant.  11.  The  Public  Library  for  Negroes.  12.  The  North  Carolina  College  for 
Negroes.     13.  The  Tobacco  Warehouses. 

DUKE    UNIVERSITY 

14.  East  Campus.     15.  West  Campus. 

a.  Post  Office,  b.  Union  Station,  c.  Bus  Terminal,  d.  Chamber  of  Commerce. 
e.  Carolina  Motor  Club.  f.  Five  Points,  g.  El  Toro  Baseball  Park.  h.  Hope  Valley 
Country  Club.  1.  Hillandale  Golf  Course,  k.  Duke  Park.  l.  Forest  Hills  Club  House. 
m.  Crystal  Lake  Park. 


DURHAM 

1939 


1^6  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

campus.  The  school  was  begun  in  191 0  as  a  training  school  for  ministers, 
through  the  efforts  of  the  Rev.  James  E.  Shepherd,  who  raised  funds  by  sub- 
scriptions. The  emphasis  on  religious  training  was  dropped  in  191 6  and 
the  name  was  changed  to  National  Training  School.  Ownership  was  trans- 
ferred to  the  State  in  1923.  A  faculty  of  22  teaches  a  student  body  of  about 
280.  The  institution  is  a  member  of  the  Association  of  Colleges  for  Negro 
Youth  and  of  the  Association  of  American  Colleges.  It  confers  A.B.,  B.S., 
and  B.S.C.  degrees.  The  college  mixed  chorus  of  50  members  gives  con- 
certs and  broadcasts.  The  college  plant  includes  an  administration  building, 
a  gymnasium,  dining  hall,  two  dormitories  for  men,  a  dormitory  for  women, 
laboratories,  and  a  library  with  more  than  12,000  volumes. 

13.  The  TOBACCO  WAREHOUSES  {open  during  season),  Morgan  St., 
N.  of  Main  St.,  in  the  center  of  the  bright-leaf  belt,  sold  a  total  of  35,446,826 
pounds  of  tobacco  in  1935-36.  The  season  opens  about  the  middle  of  Septem- 
ber and  closes  the  first  of  March.  Buyers  representing  the  large  manufac- 
turers and  independents  purchase  tobacco  at  daily  auctions. 


DUKE  UNIVERSITY 
{Buildings  open  during  school  hours  unless  otherwise  indicated.) 

Duke  University  has  two  separate  campuses  covering  more  than  5,000 
acres:  the  East,  or  Woman's  Campus,  and  the  West,  or  University  Campus. 
The  two  are  connected  by  a  1.5-mile  drive  bordered  by  the  homes  of  faculty 
members. 

Springing  from  Union  Institute,  a  community  school  founded  by  Meth- 
odists and  Quakers  in  Randolph  County  in  1838,  the  university  has  an 
unbroken  history.  Brantley  York  was  the  first  director.  Under  Braxton 
Craven,  Union  Institute  expanded  (1852)  into  a  teacher-training  school. 
Seven  years  later  the  name  was  changed  to  Trinity  College  and  the  institu- 
tion became  Methodist  sectarian.  Under  Dr.  John  Franklin  Crowell,  the  col- 
lege was  moved  to  Durham  in  September  1892,  where  it  was  established  on 
the  present  East  Campus.  The  administration  of  Bishop  John  C.  Kilgo  (1894- 
19 10)  was  notable  for  strong  denominational  emphasis  and  a  courageous 
defense  of  academic  freedom. 

Rapid  expansion  followed  increased  benevolences  by  the  Methodist  Epis- 
copal Church,  South,  and  by  private  contributions.  In  1924  the  Duke  Endow- 
ment Fund  was  established  by  James  B.  Duke  and  the  name  was  changed 
in  his  honor.  Since  then  the  university  has  been  nonsectarian  except  in  the 
School  of  Religion. 

Including  the  Woman's  College,  the  university  occupies  55  buildings  and 
has  a  faculty  and  administrative  staff  of  more  than  500.  Enrollment  gen- 
erally exceeds  3,400,  and  for  the  summer  term  averages  2,000,  more  than 
half  of  them  graduate  students. 

The  professional  Schools  of  Law,  Religion,  and  Medicine  overshadow  all 
other  features  of  the  institution.  Emphasis  on  religion  was  one  of  the  inten- 
tions of  the  founder.  The  Medical  School,  adjoining  Duke  Hospital,  is  the 


DURHAM  177 

only  school  granting  the  M.D.  degree  in  North  Carolina;  it  has  excellent 
equipment  for  the  work,  and  its  faculty  members  are  active  in  research.  A 
germicidal  ray  is  used  for  sterilizing  the  air  of  operating  rooms. 

Among  the  authors  who  are  or  have  been  connected  with  the  university 
are:  John  Spencer  Bassett,  William  K.  Boyd,  Charles  Abram  Ell  wood,  Hope 
Summerell  Chamberlain,  Edwin  C.  Mims,  and  William  McDougall.  The 
Duke  University  Press  publishes  books  of  educational  significance  and  nine 
scientific  and  literary  periodicals. 

The  university  maintains  a  symphony  orchestra  and  glee  clubs  for  men 
and  women.  The  Duke  University  Choir  has  150  members.  The  Artist 
Series  brings  famous  musicians  to  the  city. 

14.  EAST  CAMPUS  (WOMAN'S  COLLEGE),  W.  Main  between  Bu- 
chanan and  Broad  Sts.,  120  acres  in  area,  has  a  quadrangle  of  buildings 
designed  in  the  Federal  style,  with  a  domed  auditorium  forming  the  focal 
point.  The  rotunda  of  the  auditorium  is  flanked  by  a  library  and  a  student 
union.  The  older  buildings  were  utilized  by  Trinity  College;  eleven  were 
added  1925-27.  Trees  and  rolling  lawns  surrounded  by  a  wall  of  local  stone 
provide  an  attractive  setting. 

15.  On  the  WEST  CAMPUS  are  Trinity  College,  undergraduate  school 
for  men;  the  Graduate  School  of  Arts  and  Sciences,  the  Schools  of  Religion, 
Law,  Medicine,  Nursing,  and  the  Duke  Forest.  The  buildings,  designed  by 
Horace  Trumbauer,  were  erected  (1923-32)  of  stone  from  the  university's 
quarries  near  Hillsboro.  The  Law  School,  the  Chemistry  Building,  and  the 
Nurses'  Home  are  designed  in  the  Collegiate  Gothic  style,  based  upon  the 
Tudor  Gothic  and  Elizabethan  traditions  of  the  early  Renaissance  in  Eng- 
land. The  campus  is  penetrated  by  walks  and  drives  winding  about  rock 
gardens  and  terraces,  while  rolling  wooded  hills  form  a  background. 

a.  The  campanile  of  DUKE  UNIVERSITY  CHAPEL  rises  above  the 
buildings  of  the  entire  unit.  The  tower,  38  feet  square  at  the  base,  rises  to  a 
height  of  210  feet,  and  is  similar  in  composition  to  the  Bell  Harry  Tower 
of  Canterbury  Cathedral.  The  cruciform  chapel  seats  2,000.  The  stained- 
glass  windows  are  designed  in  the  medieval  manner  but  the  decorative  com- 
positions are  the  original  work  of  G.  Owen  Bonawit.  The  choir  of  Amiens 
was  the  source  of  inspiration  for  the  woodwork.  In  the  tower  is  a  carillon 
of  50  bells,  the  gift  of  George  A.  Allen  and  William  R.  Perkins,  chairman 
and  vice-chairman,  respectively,  of  the  Duke  Endowment.  Recitals  are 
given  by  Anton  Brees,  Belgian  carilloneur  for  the  university  and  for  the 
Bok  Singing  Tower  in  Florida. 

b.  The  DUKE  MEMORIAL  CHAPEL,  adjoining  the  western  transept  of 
the  main  chapel,  contains  three  sarcophagi  wherein  lie  the  bodies  of  Wash- 
ington Duke,  and  his  sons,  James  B.  and  Benjamin  N.  Duke.  These  are 
carved  with  life-size  reclining  figures,  the  work  of  Charles  Keck  of  Phila- 
delphia, who  also  executed  the  bronze  statue  of  James  B.  Duke,  which 
stands,  cigar  in  hand,  in  a  plot  before  the  main  chapel.  The  design  of  the 


DURHAM  179 

grisaille  windows  is  based  upon  that  of  the  windows  of  Norbury,  Derbyshire, 
England.  Subscriptions  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States  paid  for  the 
memorial  chapel. 

c.  The  GENERAL  LIBRARY  {open  9-10:30  weekdays,  2-6,  y-10  Sun.), 
stands  between  the  Schools  of  Law  and  Religion.  It  houses  departmental 
libraries  in  religion,  chemistry,  physics,  biology,  and  engineering.  The  uni- 
versity's library  facilities  provide  421,517  volumes,  2,154  periodicals,  and  files 
of  76  newspapers.  The  Peacock  Collection  is  Caroliniana.  In  the  Treas- 
ure Room,  2nd  floor,  are  out-of-print  early  editions  and  documents.  Por- 
traits of  men  prominent  in  the  growth  of  the  university  hang  in  the  reference 


d.  The  UNION  has  rooms  for  visitors  and  two  dining  halls.  In  Hall  A  are 
corbels  on  which  are  carved  the  shields  of  14  colleges  of  the  University  of 
Cambridge.  Sixteen  college  shields  of  the  University  of  Oxford  are  on  the 
corbels  of  Hall  B. 

e.  The  GRAY  BUILDING  has  a  Fossil  Collection  on  the  3rd  floor  {open 
8:30  0.171.-12:30  p.m.  M on. -Sat.),  one  of  the  most  complete  in  the  South. 

/.  DUKE  HOSPITAL,  a  $4,000,000  plant,  opened  in  July  1930,  maintains 
a  public  dispensary  of  14  clinics  (open  12:30  daily).  The  hospital  contains 
406  beds  and  50  bassinets.  Besides  the  usual  departments  of  surgery,  gen- 
eral medicine,  pediatrics,  obstetrics,  and  gynecology,  there  are  subsidiary 
divisions  including  pathology,  medical  instruction,  radiology,  and  social 
service.  Braces  and  special  shoes  for  orthopedic  patients  are  made  in  a  shop 
in  the  building.  The  hospital  employs  more  than  500  aides,  including  100 
staff  members  and  100  workers  engaged  solely  in  research. 

g.  The  MEDICAL  SCHOOL  LIBRARY  {open  8:30  a.m.-n  p.m.  Mon, 
Fri.,  8:30  a.m.-io  p.m.  Sat.,  9  a.m.-io  p.m.  Sun.)  contains  13,941  volumes. 
On  its  paneled  walls  hangs  a  collection  of  Chatham  prints. 

h.  DUKE  STADIUM,  seating  40,000  in  its  permanent  stands,  is  of  horse- 
shoe shape  built  in  a  natural  hillside  amphitheater. 

i.  In  the  SARAH  DUKE  IRIS  GARDEN  are  50,000  iris  of  more  than  500 
varieties;  100,000  daffodils  of  almost  300  varieties;  20,000  tulips  of  nearly 
100  varieties;  500  Japanese  cherry  trees,  and  thousands  of  other  plants, 
shrubs,  and  trees. 


Key  to  Duke  University  Campus 

a.  Duke  University  Chapel,  b.  Duke  Memorial  Chapel,  c.  The  General  Library, 
d.  The  Union,  e.  The  Gray  Building,  f.  Duke  Hospital,  g.  The  Medical  School 
Library,     h.  Duke  Stadium,     i.  The  Sarah  Duke  Iris  Garden,     j.  The  Herbarium. 


l8o  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

/'.  Behind  the  University  Chapel  is  the  HERBARIUM,  covering  300  acres, 
a  project  of  the  forestry  department. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  ENVIRONS 

Duke  Homestead,  6  m.,  Fairntosh  Plantation,  10  m.,  O'Kelly  Grave,  10  m.,  Quail 
Roost  Farm,  14  m.  (see  tour  10);  Bennett  Memorial,  site  of  the  Johnston  surrender  to 
Sherman,  6  m.,  Hillsboro,  Colonial  borough  town,  12  m.  (see  tour  25);  University  of 
North  Carolina,  12  m.   (see  chapel  hill). 


E    D    E    N    T    O    N 


Railroad  Station:  E.  Queen  St.  for  Norfolk  Southern  R.R. 

Bus  Station:  E.  King  and  Broad  Sts.  for  Carolina  Coach  Co.  and  Norfolk  Southern  Bus 
Corp. 

Accommodations:  2  hotels;  boarding  houses. 

Information  Service:  Carolina  Motor  Club,  116  E.  King  St.;  Edenton-Chowan  Chamber 
of  Commerce,  Municipal  Building,  E.  King  St. 

Motion  Picture  Houses:  1. 

EDENTON  (16  alt.,  3,653  pop.),  seat  of  Chowan  County  and  one  of  the 
three  oldest  communities  in  the  State,  is  a  placid  town  on  a  peninsula  formed 
by  Pembroke  and  Queen  Anne's  Creeks  near  the  western  extremity  of  Albe- 
marle Sound.  Here  lived  men  who  helped  shape  the  Colony's  destiny  and 
made  the  town  a  political,  commercial,  and  social  center.  Its  citizens  played 
prominent  parts  in  defying  the  British  Crown,  assisting  the  Revolutionary 
forces,  and  launching  the  new  State. 

The  business  section  occupies  a  few  tidy  blocks  along  and  adjacent  to  Broad 
Street,  which  bisects  the  town  in  its  course  to  the  bay  front.  Once  distin- 
guished by  a  double  row  of  great  elms  and  a  public  well,  the  thoroughfare 
has  been  modernized  to  provide  parking  space.  Old  wharves,  with  fish  houses 
and  packing  plants,  oil-storage  tanks  and  lumber  mills,  edge  the  bay.  Inter- 
secting Broad  Street  are  mulberry-  and  elm-shaded  King,  Queen,  Eden, 
Church,  Gale,  Albemarle,  and  Carteret  Streets,  named  long  before  the  Re- 
public was  established.  Along  the  sound  are  old  plantation  estates  that  have 
always  been  a  part  of  the  community's  life.  The  Negroes,  33  percent  of  the 
total  population,  live  on  the  sprawling  northeast  and  northwest  fringes  of 
the  town,  and  are  largely  employed  in  lumber,  veneer,  peanut,  and  fishing 
operations. 

In  1622  John  Pory,  secretary  of  the  Virginia  Colony,  explored  the  rich 
bottom  lands  to  the  Chowan  River  and  by  1658  settlers  had  come  down  from 
Jamestown.  In  1710  the  Edenton  settlement  was  a  borough  of  some  impor- 
tance, virtual  capital  of  the  Colony,  and  the  Governor's  residence.  The  Indians 
called  it  the  Town  in  Matecomak  Creek  and  it  was  also  known  as  the  port  of 
Roanoke.  The  assembly  in  1715  passed  an  act  "...  to  build  a  Courthouse  and 
House  to  hold  the  Assembly  in  ...  in  the  forks  of  Queen  Anne's  Creek."  The 
forks  were  known  as  Queen  Anne's  Towne  until  1722  when  the  place  was  in- 
corporated as  Edenton  in  honor  of  Governor  Charles  Eden,  who  had  just 
died,  having,  according  to  the  inscription  on  his  tombstone,  administered  the 
affairs  of  the  Province  for  eight  years  "to  ye  great  satisfaction  of  ye  Lords 
Proprietors  and  ye  ease  and  happiness  of  ye  people."  In  time  the  town  was 


l82  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

outstripped  by  contemporaries  and  the  seat  of  government  moved  to  a  "more 
sentrical"  location. 

Two  early  shipyards  did  a  thriving  business  and  "against  the  delicate  hori- 
zon stretched  a  fairy  lattice,  the  masts  and  riggings  of  ships  .  .  .  deep  sea 
ships,  full-rigged  ships,  men-o'-war,  merchantmen,  sneaking  coasters,  rum 
boats,  whalers."  Hewes'  shipyard  was  off  the  point  where  Pembroke  Creek 
empties  into  Edenton  Bay.  A  severe  storm  in  1936  revealed  for  a  short  time 
large  bulkheads  and  ways  put  together  with  wooden  pegs,  indicating  that 
ships  of  considerable  size  had  been  built  there.  As  early  as  1769  seine 
fishing  was  employed;  great  catches  were  salted  and  shipped  over  a  wide 
area. 

Matching  the  patriotism  of  Edenton  matrons  who  held  the  first  feminine 
Revolutionary  tea  party,  the  men  dispatched  to  beleaguered  Boston  a  ship- 
load of  corn,  flour,  and  pork.  Edenton's  merchant  prince,  Joseph  Hewes,  one 
of  North  Carolina's  three  signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  placed 
his  vessels  at  General  Washington's  disposal  and  Dr.  Hugh  Williamson,  at 
his  own  expense,  provided  cargoes  of  army  supplies.  Williamson,  who  was 
surgeon  general  of  the  North  Carolina  militia  (1780-82)  and  a  signer  of  the 
Federal  Constitution  (1787),  began  his  political  career  as  a  member  of  the 
general  assembly  from  the  borough  of  Edenton  in  1782.  From  1790  to  1793 
he  served  in  Congress,  and  in  1812  published  a  two-volume  history  of  the 
State.  Samuel  Johnston,  whose  home  still  stands,  was  outstanding  in  the 
assembly  and  in  both  Provincial  and  Continental  Congresses,  Governor 
(1787-89),  and  first  United  States  Senator  from  North  Carolina.  Gen.  Ed- 
ward Vail,  Col.  Thomas  Benbury,  and  Col.  James  Blount  were  among 
those  who  organized  troops  to  aid  Washington. 

In  1 78 1,  when  Jeremiah  Mixson,  80-year-old  town  crier,  brought  the  news 
that  a  British  force  was  coming  from  Suffolk  to  burn  the  town,  the  terrified 
population  evacuated  by  boat,  skiff,  and  barge  to  Windsor  on  the  Cashie 
River.  They  returned  to  their  undamaged  homes  a  week  later  when  the 
British  were  recalled  to  join  Cornwallis. 

Edenton  sent  several  units  to  fight  in  the  southern  cause,  among  them 
the  Edenton  Bell  Battery  organized  in  1861-62  by  Capt.  William  Badham. 
Artillery  was  scarce  and,  in  response  to  Beauregard's  request,  virtually  all 
the  bells  in  town  were  cast  into  cannon.  Federal  troops  occupied  town  and 
vicinity  from  February  1862  until  the  end  of  the  war.  Off  Sandy  Point  in 
the  sound  near  Edenton  the  ironclad  Albemarle  engaged  a  Federal  fleet, 
May  5,  1864. 

From  the  earliest  days  Edenton's  principal  occupation  has  been  the  shad 
and  herring  fisheries.  Cotton,  corn,  soybeans,  tobacco,  early  and  late  truck, 
cantaloupes,  and  watermelons  are  shipped  out  by  boat,  train,  and  truck. 
However,  the  most  important  crop  produced  from  the  fine  loamy  soil  of 
the  region  is  Jumbo  peanuts;  the  town  is  the  largest  peanut  market  in  the 
State  and  the  second  largest  in  the  world.  There  are  storage  warehouses  and 
two  processing  plants,  shipping  annually  a  half-million  85-pound  bags.  The 
town's  23,000-spindle  textile  mills  make  it  the  cotton-yarn  center  of  north- 
eastern North  Carolina.  Nearby  waters  afford  good  angling  for  bass  and 
perch,  as  well  as  facilities  for  boating  and  bathing. 


EDEN  TON  183 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  ST.  PAUL'S  CHURCH,  NW.  corner  Broad  and  Church  Sts.,  erected 
1736-60,  is  the  second  oldest  church  standing  in  North  Carolina.  Its  slim 
steeple  and  ivy-covered  brick  walls  are  partly  hidden  by  great  elms,  mag- 
nolias, and  crapemyrtles.  Its  graveyard  forms  a  charming  park.  The  Vestry 
of  Chowan  Parish,  afterwards  St.  Paul's,  was  organized  in  1701.  It  was  the 
first  religious  body  in  the  State  and  the  first  corporation.  Parish  records, 
dating  from  1701,  preserve  much  of  the  recorded  history  of  the  day. 

The  original  wooden  building  erected  in  170 1-2  on  what  is  now  Hayes 
Plantation  (see  tour  id)  was  the  first  church  in  North  Carolina.  In  171 1  the 
Rev.  John  Urmston  wrote  that  "The  Vestry  met  at  an  Ordinary  where  rum 
was  the  chief  of  their  business,"  that  the  church  had  "neither  floor  nor 
seats,"  and  that,  as  the  key  was  lost  and  the  door  open,  "all  the  Hoggs  and 
Cattle  flee  thither  for  shade  in  the  Summer  and  Warmth  in  the  Winter." 
Ground  was  cleared  for  the  present  brick  structure  in  March  1736  and  the 
vestry  expended  "for  250  bu.  of  shells  £J&  7s.  6d."  and  "in  part  of  bricks 
^100."  In  1740  the  assembly  provided  a  tax  levy  upon  every  tithable  person 
in  the  county  for  the  church's  completion  and  ordered  that  it  be  used  for 
vestry  meetings  as  soon  as  "fit  for  Divine  Worship,"  under  penalty  of  fine  if 
it  then  met  elsewhere.  "Ye  roof  was  righted"  by  1745,  but  the  first  Divine 
Worship  was  not  held  until  Apr.  10,  1760.  The  interior  woodwork  was  not 
finished  until  1774. 

The  exterior,  although  simple  in  design,  is  marked  by  a  semicircular  apse, 
enlarged  in  1828,  and  a  square  three-story  tower  with  an  octagonal  spire. 
The  main  entrance  is  in  the  base  of  the  tower.  The  side  doors  are  paneled 
and  framed  with  brick  quoins.  The  plan  of  the  building  suggests  a  medieval 
parish  church  measuring  40  by  60  feet,  although  in  detail  it  follows  the 
Georgian  Colonial  mode.  The  interior  is  divided  into  nave  and  aisles  by 
rows  of  wooden  columns  supporting  a  sectional  vaulted  ceiling  of  ornamental 
plaster.  The  high  box  pews,  free  since  1868,  have  doors;  aisle  galleries  and 
certain  pews  in  the  body  of  the  church  were  once  set  aside  "for  the  use  of 
our  people  of  color."  The  church  was  lighted  only  with  candles  until  1869 
when  oil  lamps  were  added. 

The  Rev.  Daniel  Earle,  D.D.,  served  the  parish  from  1757  until  his  death 
in  1790,  though  not  allowed  to  hold  services  during  the  Revolution  because 
he  combined  fiery  Revolutionary  activities  with  adherence  to  the  Church  of 
England.  He  was  also  a  planter  and  pioneer  in  the  fishing  industry.  Before 
the  church  windows  were  glazed  in  1771,  the  rector  arrived  one  morning  to 
find  a  verse  attached  to  the  church  door: 

A  half-built  church, 
A  broken-down   steeple, 
A  herring-catching  parson, 
And  a  damn  set  of  people. 

Parson  Earle  presided  over  a  mass  meeting  on  Aug.  22,  1774,  to  protest 
against  the  Boston  Port  Act,  declaring  that  "the  cause  of  Boston  is  the  cause 
of  us  all."  Yet  it  was  not  until  June  19,  1776,  that  his  vestry  signed  the  Test, 


EDEN  TON  185 

an  ecclesiastical  declaration  of  independence,  averring  that  "the  people  of 
this  Province  singly  and  collectively  are  bound  by  the  Acts  and  Resolutions 
of  the  Continental  and  Provincial  Congresses." 

The  Rev.  Charles  Pettigrew,  first  bishop-elect  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal 
Church  in  North  Carolina,  served  as  rector  of  St.  Paul's  for  a  time  in  1775 
and  in  1791,  after  Parson  Earle's  death. 

The  silver  chalice  and  paten  used  every  Holy  Communion  day  bear  the 
maker's  mark,  crude  capitals  AK  in  a  rectangle.  There  is  mystery  connected 
with  the  silver's  maker  and  donor.  In  1703  Gov.  Francis  Nicholson  of  Vir- 
ginia gave  ;Tio  to  the  church,  whereupon  the  vestry  ordered,  according  to 
the  minutes,  "that  the  ten  pounds  in  pieces  of  eight  wt.  17  p.w.t.  shall  be 
sent  to  Boston  to  purchase  a  chalice  for  the  use  of  the  church  with  this 
Motto  Ex  Dono  Francis  Nicholson  Esq.  her  Majesty's  Lieutenant  Govr.  of 
her  Majesty's  Colony  and  Dominion  of  Virginia."  In  July  of  1714  Col. 
Edward  Moseley,  a  prominent  early  vestryman,  wrote  to  inform  Governor 
Nicholson  that  his  laudable  design  had  been  executed,  though  not  without 
difficulty,  and  that  he  had  lodged  the  ^10  "in  Mr.  Pere  Dummer's  hands  of 
Boston  towards  procuring  church  plate."  Jeremiah  Dummer  was  a  Boston 
silversmith  (1645-1718)  who  produced  some  of  the  finest  ecclesiastical  and 
convivial  pieces  of  the  period,  but  the  identity  of  the  mysterious  AK  is  un- 
determined. When  the  actual  presentation  of  the  silver  was  made  to  the 
parish  in  1727,  it  was  inscribed,  not  with  the  name  of  the  donor,  but  as 
"The  Gift  of  Collonell  Edward  Mosely  for  ye  use  of  ye  church  in  Edenton 
in  ye  year  1725."  The  church's  pewter  service,  a  chalice  and  paten  (c.  1700), 
was  the  gift  of  Queen  Anne. 

In  ST.  PAUL'S  CHURCHYARD  are  buried  the  proprietary  Governors 
Henderson  Walker,  Thomas  Pollock,  and  Charles  Eden,  other  persons 
prominent  in  Colonial  times,  and  several  Revolutionary  patriots.  The  tomb- 
stone of  Mrs.  Ann  Booth  Pollock  Clark  Cox  carries  an  account  of  the  Revo- 
lutionary activities  of  her  grandfather,  Col.  Edward  Buncombe. 

2.  The  SITE  OF  THE  PENELOPE  BARKER  HOME,  213  Broad  St.,  is 
occupied  by  the  Penelope  Barker  Hotel.  Mistress  Barker  was  the  leading 
spirit  in  the  Edenton  Tea  Party.  Tradition  relates  that  she  horsewhipped  a 
British  officer  whom  she  discovered  trying  to  make  off  with  her  horses. 

3.  The  JOSEPH  HEWES  HOUSE  {private),  105  W.  King  St.,  was  built 
in  1750-60  by  Maj.  Nathaniel  Allen,  a  Revolutionary  figure;  his  uncle,  Joseph 


Key  to  Edenton  Map 

1.  St.  Paul's  Church.  2.  The  Site  of  the  Penelope  Barker  Home.  3.  The  Joseph  Hewes 
House.  4.  Beverly  Hall.  5.  The  Cupola  House.  6.  The  Site  of  Hewes  Store.  7.  The 
Site  of  Horniblow's  Tavern.  8.  The  Chowan  Courthouse.  9.  Edenton  Green.  10.  The 
Revolutionary  Cannon.  11.  The  Site  of  the  Edenton  Tea  Party.  12.  The  Site  of 
Edenton  Academy.     13.  The  Iredell  House.     14.  Peanut  Processing  Plants. 

a.  Railroad  Station,  b.  Union  Bus  Station,  c.  Carolina  Motor  Club.  d.  Federal  Building 
and  Post  Office,     e.  Mackey's  Ferry. 


100  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

Hewes,  once  made  his  home  here  with  Major  Allen.  Here  was  born  the 
latter's  son,  William  Allen  (1803-79),  who  settled  in  Ohio  and  became  Con- 
gressman, Senator  (1837-49),  and  Governor  of  that  State  (1874-76).  The 
framework  of  the  original  house  is  intact,  a  two-story  clapboarded  structure 
on  a  foundation  of  coral  rock  brought  in  as  ship's  ballast.  The  two-story  ell 
with  upper  and  lower  porches  was  added  in  1825.  The  small  Doric  entrance 
portico  at  the  King  Street  entrance  is  a  restoration  (1934)  of  the  original 
one. 

4.  BEVERLY  HALL  {private;  grounds  and  gardens  always  open),  114  W. 
King  St.,  stands  in  a  setting  of  magnolias,  cape  jessamine,  Japanese  cherries, 
weeping  willows,  and  many  plants  and  shrubs  indigenous  to  the  region.  It 
is  a  Georgian  Colonial  structure  of  white-painted  brick  with  green  shutters. 
Shallow  steps  lead  to  the  main  porch  on  the  east  elevation,  which  has  slim 
Doric  columns  and  a  delicate  second-floor  latticed  rail.  The  central  columns 
extend  to  the  hip  roof  forming  a  two-story  portico  over  the  entrance.  The 
doorway  is  ornamented  with  fanlights  and  side  lights.  The  west  elevation 
also  has  a  portico.  The  four  great  chimneys  are  enclosed. 

This  house  was  built  in  1810  for  use  as  a  State  bank  with  living  quarters 
for  two  officers  and  their  families.  The  vault,  of  solid  brick  walls  2  feet  thick, 
rises  12  feet  above  the  foundation  to  the  banking  floor.  Steel  bars  cover 
bottom,  sides,  and  domed  roof  of  the  vault.  The  2-pound  key  is  a  curiosity. 
After  the  bank  ceased  operations  (1835)  the  house  was  converted  into  a 
residence.  For  a  time  during  the  War  between  the  States  it  was  headquarters 
for  Federal  Maj.  Edward  Terwilliger. 

5.  The  CUPOLA  HOUSE  {open  3-5  daily;  y-g  p.m.  Mon.  and  Fri.;  adm. 
25<f),  408  S.  Broad  St.,  is  the  oldest  standing  house  in  Edenton.  Inscribed  on 
the  front  gable  finial  in  raised  letters  is  "F.C.-1758,"  indicating  the  year  it 
was  built  by  Francis  Corbin,  the  notorious  land  agent  of  Lord  Granville.  This 
two-story  early  Georgian  Colonial  frame  house  with  native  pine  clapboards 
was  originally  painted  white,  with  green  shutters  and  trim.  A  12-inch 
framed  overhang  across  the  second-story  front,  reminiscent  of  17th-century 
structures,  has  corbeled  brackets.  Three  great  buttressed  end  chimneys  rise 
clear  of  the  house  from  the  eave  line.  The  small  entrance  portico  has  a 
vaulted,  plastered  ceiling.  The  fenestration  is  symmetrical,  with  solid  shutters 
fastened  with  large-headed  bolts  and  slotted  sticks  securing  first-floor  win- 
dows and  louvered  shutters  at  the  others. 

The  house  takes  its  name  from  its  octagonal  cupola,  or  "lantern,"  used 
for  sighting  incoming  ships  and  illuminated  on  the  King's  birthday,  public 
holidays,  and  other  festive  occasions.  A  Chippendale  stair  leads  to  the  attic 
whence  a  circular  stair  winds  around  an  octagonal  mahogany  newel  post 
to  the  cupola. 

Most  of  the  rooms  have  the  original  hand-carved  paneling,  chair  rails, 
mantels,  and  over-mantels.  The  woodwork  from  one  room  was  sold  to  the 
Brooklyn  Museum  of  Art,  where  it  was  reconstructed  as  part  of  the  repro- 
duction of  the  first  floor  of  the  Cupola  House  as  it  appeared  in  Corbin's  day. 
This  sale  was  made  before  acquisition  of  the  property  by  the  Cupola  House 
Association. 


EDEN  TON  187 

The  drawing  room  on  the  first  floor  contains  the  Shepard-Pruden 
Memorial  Library,  with  a  small  collection  of  early  Caroliniana.  In  an  up- 
stairs room  is  the  Edenton  Museum  of  relics  and  documents,  including  an 
original  treaty  with  the  Tuscarora  Indians  (1712)  written  on  parchment. 
Other  items  are  the  tea  set  used  at  the  Edenton  Tea  Party,  a  portrait  of 
Mistress  Penelope  Barker,  and  a  large  iron  fireback  bearing  the  likeness  of 
George  II  and  the  royal  arms  in  bas-relief. 

6.  The  SITE  OF  HEWES  STORE,  NE.  corner  Broad  and  E.  King  Sts.,  is 
marked  by  a  tablet  in  the  south  wall  of  a  brick  building.  Hewes  shipped 
provisions  for  Valley  Forge  up  the  Chowan  River  to  South  Quay  in  Nanse- 
mond  County,  Va.,  whence  they  were  relayed  by  wagon  to  the  Continental 
Army. 

7.  The  SITE  OF  HORNIBLOW'S  TAVERN,  E.  King  St.  at  head  of 
Colonial  Ave.,  is  occupied  by  the  Hotel  Joseph  Hewes.  This  is  one  of  the 
five  tavern  sites  in  America  continuously  occupied  as  such  since  Colonial 
days.  Mrs.  Horniblow  was  required  to  post  bond  as  a  guarantee  that  the 
house  would  not  "on  the  Sabbath  day  suffer  any  person  to  tipple  or  drink 
more  than  is  necessary."  In  James  Boyd's  Drums,  the  tavern  is  called  Horn- 
blower's,  although  it  was  first  known  (1729)  as  the  King's  Arms.  A  point  on 
the  sound  near  Edenton  is  called  Hornblower's  Point. 

8.  The  CHOWAN  COURTHOUSE,  E.  King  St.  at  the  head  of  the  green, 
was  built  in  1767,  supposedly  by  Gilbert  Leigh  who  resided  in  Edenton  at 
the  time.  It  replaced  the  first  courthouse  erected  in  1719.  This  is  one  of 
the  finest  surviving  examples  of  Georgian  Colonial  public-building  architec- 
ture. It  is  constructed  of  warm  red  brick  with  white  trim.  A  horizontal  belt 
course  marks  the  second-floor  line,  white  lintels  accent  the  heads  of  the 
windows,  and  a  level  cornice  ornamented  with  modillions  forms  a  continuous 
line  beneath  the  hip  roof.  The  central  pavilion,  projecting  slighdy  from  the 
facade,  has  a  classic  pediment,  and  a  pedimented,  pilastered  doorway  fronted 
by  sandstone  steps  worn  3  inches  deep.  Two  slender  flues  rise  near  the 
center  of  the  building  on  either  side  of  the  square  clock  tower  whose  domed 
octagonal  cupola  is  surmounted  by  a  patriarchal  cross.  The  "spring  floor" 
on  the  second  story  was  both  assembly  and  ballroom,  modeled  after  such 
rooms  at  Bath  and  Tunbridge  Wells  in  England.  It  is  one  of  the  largest 
solidly  paneled  rooms  of  the  Colonial  period,  hand-carved,  with  painted 
panels  of  native  white  pine  1/4  inches  thick,  33  inches  wide,  and  48  inches 
long. 

On  the  second  floor,  in  the  master's  station  of  the  Unanimity  Masonic 
Lodge  Room  {open  upon  application  at  Chowan  Herald  office),  is  the 
Washington  Chair.  Elaborately  carved  and  embellished  with  Masonic  sym- 
bols, it  was  used  by  George  Washington  when  he  was  master  of  the  Alex- 
andria, Va.,  lodge.  Upon  threatened  British  invasion,  Alexandria  lodge  was 
suspended  and  the  chair  given  into  the  keeping  of  Capt.  G.  B.  Russell,  who 
eventually  found  safety  in  Edenton  Bay.  In  1778,  the  Alexandria  lodge 
being  still  dormant,  the  captain  presented  the  chair  to  the  Edenton  lodge. 


100  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

Old  courthouse  records  reveal  that  complaints  of  bewitchment  were  com- 
mon in  Colonial  times.  In  one  case  Martha  Richardson  was  charged  with 
"not  having  ye  fear  of  God  before  her  Eyes,  but  being  led  by  ye  Instigation 
of  ye  Devil"  into  bewitching  sundry  of  Her  Majesty's  subjects.  The  accusa- 
tion against  another  defendant  was  that  she  did  "Devilishly  and  Maliciously 
bewitch  and  by  assistance  of  the  Devil  afflict  with  Moral  paynes  of  the  body 
of  Deborah  Bounthier  whereby  the  sd.  Deborah  departed  this  life."  The 
husband  of  the  alleged  witch  in  this  case  insisted  that  the  plaintiff  "bring  ye 
same  to  proof"  else  he  would  "much  bruse"  the  body  of  the  plaintiff.  How- 
ever, most  records  of  these  cases  close  with  the  notation:  "Wee  of  ye  Jury 
find  no  Bill." 

9.  EDENTON  GREEN,  lying  between  King  St.,  Colonial  Ave.,  Water, 
and  Court  Sts.,  is  without  owner  or  record  of  title  but  is  maintained  by  the 
town.  It  was  once  called  the  "Publick  Parade"  and  equipped  with  stocks, 
rack,  and  pillory.  The  grassy  lawn  with  flower  beds,  fountain,  and  casual 
walkways,  shaded  by  arching  oaks,  slopes  gently  down  to  the  bay. 

The  Confederate  Monument,  N.  edge  of  the  green,  is  the  granite  figure 
of  a  Confederate  soldier  atop  a  slim  shaft. 

The  Hewes  Monument,  S.  edge  of  the  green,  is  the  only  marker  erected 
by  Congressional  appropriation  to  a  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence. The  granite  shaft,  designed  by  Rogers  and  Poor,  was  dedicated  in 
1932.  Joseph  Hewes  (1730-79)  was  a  vestryman  of  St.  Paul's,  delegate  from 
North  Carolina  to  the  Continental  Congress,  and  as  chairman  of  the  Com- 
mittee of  Marine  of  that  body  was  virtually  first  Secretary  of  the  Navy. 
John  Paul  Jones  wrote  to  his  patron,  Hewes:  ". .  .  to  your  friendship  I  owe 
my  present  enjoyments,  as  well  as  my  future  prospects.  You  more  than  any 
other  person  have  labored  to  place  the  instruments  of  success  in  my  hands." 
Hewes'  presentation  of  North  Carolina's  Halifax  Resolves  to  the  Continental 
Congress  on  May  27,  1776,  was  the  first  utterance  for  independence  in  that 
body.  He  died  while  attending  the  Congress,  and  is  buried  in  Christ  Church- 
yard, Philadelphia. 

10.  The  REVOLUTIONARY  CANNON,  mounted  on  the  sea  wall  at  the 
foot  of  the  green,  are  3  of  a  shipment  of  45  purchased  in  France  for  the 
Continental  Army  by  Thomas  Benbury  and  Thomas  Jones,  Edenton  patriots. 
They  were  cast  in  1748  and  brought  to  Edenton  in  1778  by  Capt.  William 
Boritz.  Unable  to  collect  transportation  charges,  the  captain  unloaded  his 
cargo,  sank  the  ship,  and  became  a  citizen  of  Edenton.  Tradition  has  it 
that  during  the  War  between  the  States  patriotic  citizens  mounted  the  old 
pieces  on  wagon  wheels  with  the  intention  of  defending  the  town.  When 
forces  from  the  Federal  fleet  disembarked  Feb.  12,  1862,  the  commanding 
invader  ordered  his  men  to  break  the  trunnions  and  spike  the  guns,  as  "there 
were  more  danger  standing  behind  them  than  marching  in  front."  Two  of 
the  cannon  were  presented  to  the  State  and  are  mounted  on  Capitol  Square 
in  Raleigh. 

11.  The  SITE  OF  THE  EDENTON  TEA  PARTY,  Colonial  Ave.  facing 
the  W.  side  of  the  green,  is  marked  by  a  large  bronze  teapot  mounted  on  a 


EDEN  TON  189 

Revolutionary  cannon.  Here  stood  the  home  of  Mrs.  Elizabeth  King,  where  on 
Oct.  25,  1774,  gathered  51  ladies,  with  Mrs.  Penelope  Barker  presiding.  They 
endorsed  the  resolutions  of  the  First  Provincial  Congress  (see  new  bern) 
and  further  resolved:  "We  the  Ladys  of  Edenton  do  hereby  solemnly  engage 
not  to  conform  to  that  pernicious  practice  of  drinking  tea,  or  ...  ye  wear 
of  any  manufacture  from  England,  until  such  time  that  all  acts  which  tend 
to  enslave  this  our  native  country  shall  be  repealed."  The  beverage  con- 
sumed was  a  concoction  made  from  dried  raspberry  leaves.  The  names  of 
the  signers  of  this  pact  are  inscribed  on  a  tablet  on  the  courthouse  facade. 
An  original  mezzotint  of  this  first  feminine  Revolutionary  tea  party  is  in 
the  Metropolitan  Museum  in  New  York,  and  a  plaque  in  the  rotunda  of  the 
capitol  at  Raleigh  commemorates  the  event,  which  elicited  contemporary 
reference  to  Edenton's  "female  artillery." 

12.  The  SITE  OF  EDENTON  ACADEMY,  Court  St.  between  E.  Queen 
and  Church  Sts.,  is  occupied  by  a  graded  school.  The  academy,  which  stood 
until  1906,  was  chartered  in  1770.  The  first  legislative  enactment  for  the 
promotion  of  schools  in  North  Carolina  was  a  bill  to  erect  a  schoolhouse  in 
Edenton,  adopted  by  the  assembly  in  April  1745. 

13.  The  IREDELL  HOUSE  (open  by  permission),  107  E.  Church  St.,  is 
a  severely  plain  white-painted  frame  structure,  the  main  portion  erected  in 

1790  and  the  east  wing  added  in  1821.  In  the  chimney  is  a  tablet  to  James 
Iredell  (1751-99),  outstanding  jurist  and  Revolutionary  political  leader.  In 

1 79 1  he  published  Iredell's  Revision,  the  most  comprehensive  compilation 
of  North  Carolina  statutes  up  to  that  time.  Judge  Iredell  was  the  ablest 
defender  of  the  Federal  Constitution  while  it  awaited  ratification  by  the 
people  of  North  Carolina  (see  fayetteville),  and  was  appointed  Jus- 
tice of  the  first  United  States  Supreme  Court  by  George  Washington.  His 
son,  Judge  James  Iredell,  Jr.,  was  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1827-28). 

In  an  upstairs  room  occurred  the  death  of  James  Wilson  (1742-98),  a 
Pennsylvania  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence  and  United  States 
Supreme  Court  Justice.  He  was  buried  at  Hayes  (see  tour  ia),  but  in  1906 
his  remains  were  removed  to  Pennsylvania  and  a  cenotaph  was  placed  at  the 
original  grave. 

14.  PEANUT  PROCESSING  PLANTS  (open  8-5  weekdays;  guides).  The 
Albemarle  Peanut  Co.,  2nd  St.  and  Badham  Rd.  in  North  Edenton,  and  the 
Edenton  Peanut  Co.,  Soundside  Rd.  across  Johnston's  Bridge,  are  both  five- 
story  structures.  The  two  mills  employ  about  250  people,  mostly  Negroes, 
and  have  an  annual  capacity  of  about  40  million  pounds  each.  Goobers 
grown  in  12  northeastern  counties  are  cleaned,  sorted,  and  graded  for  sale 
and  shipment,  shelled  or  unshelled,  to  roasters,  salters,  and  makers  of  con- 
fectioneries and  salad  and  cooking  oils. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  ENVIRONS 

U.  S.  Fish  Hatchery  at  Pembroke,  0.5  m.,  Hayes  Plantation,  0.5  m.  (see  tour  ia). 


ELIZABETH       CITY 


Railroad  Station:  W.  end  of  Main  St.  for  Norfolk  Southern  R.R. 

Bus   Station:   Virginia  Dare  Hotel,   McMorine   St.   between   Main    and   Fearing  Sts.,    for 

Carolina  Coach  Co.  and  Norfolk   Southern  Bus  Corp. 
Piers:  Norfolk  Southern  docks,  Water  St.  at  foot  of  E.  Burgess,  for  Elizabeth  City  (Nor- 

folk-Hatteras),  Wanchese,  C.  H.  Mellison,  and  Cooper  Bros. 
Airport:  i  m.  S.  on  US  170;  no  scheduled  service. 

Accommodations:  3  hotels,  boarding  houses,  tourist  homes. 

Information  Service:  Chamber  of  Commerce-Merchants'  Association,  Virginia  Dare  Hotel 
arcade;  Carolina  Motor  Club,  106  N.  Road  St. 

Motion  Picture  Houses:  3(1   for  Negroes). 

Golf:  Elizabeth  City  Country  Club,  5  m.  E.  on  State  30  and  Country  Club  Rd.,  9  holes, 

greens  fee,  $1. 
Swimming:  Municipal  pool,  N.  Pennsylvania  Ave.  {open  in  summer);  river  beaches. 

Annual  Events:   International  Moth   Class  Association  National   Regatta,  3   days  in  mid- 
Oct.;  Racing  Pigeon  Club,  national  shows,  May  and  Dec. 

ELIZABETH  CITY  (8  alt.,  10,037  pop.),  shipping  point  and  retail  trade 
center  for  a  large  section  of  northeastern  North  Carolina,  is  connected  with 
outside  markets  by  water,  rail,  and  highway.  It  is  the  only  town  on  the  40- 
mile  length  of  the  Pasquotank  River,  and  its  landlocked  harbor  at  the  head 
of  the  State's  great  system  of  sounds  is  30  miles  from  the  ocean  in  a  direct 
line.  The  town  is  a  convenient  base  from  which  to  visit  the  duck-hunting 
country  of  Currituck,  the  game  grounds  of  the  Dismal  Swamp,  historic  and 
vacation  spots  along  the  sounds  and  ocean,  and  sport-fishing  waters  off  the 
banks  and  inlets. 

Pasquotank  River  is  a  link  in  the  Intracoastal  Waterway,  and  at  Elizabeth 
City  forms  one  of  the  finest  inland  harbors  along  the  Atlantic  seaboard. 
Fresh  water,  free  from  teredos  and  barnacles,  good  wharfage,  and  marine 
railways  induce  many  yachtsmen  to  winter  their  craft  here.  The  town  is 
headquarters  for  the  7th  District,  U.  S.  Coast  Guard,  which  maintains  a  ship- 
yard and  supply  base  here.  The  Coast  Guard  Air  Base  (under  construction 
1938-39)  occupies  a  300-acre  site  with  a  mile  of  water  frontage  on  Pasquo- 
tank River. 

Visible  from  any  of  a  half-dozen  streets  that  sweep  down  to  the  water  or 
parallel  the  shore,  the  river  mirrors  moving  or  anchored  craft.  The  harbor 
is  the  home  port  of  freighters,  tugs,  barges,  cruisers,  yachts,  bugeyes,  and 
catboats,  as  well  as  the  locally  developed  moth  boat.  Elizabeth  City  is  one  of 
the  largest  fish-marketing  centers  in  the  South.  Fish  houses,  shipyards,  and 
other  marine  facilities  cluster  about  the  water  front.  Upon  occasion  the  box- 
like James  Adams  Floating  Theater  is  moored  at  the  foot  of  Main  Street. 
For  years  this  old  river  queen  has  opened  her  season  at  Elizabeth  City, 

190 


ELIZABETH    CITY  I9I 

though  her  annual  tour  extends  from  Wilmington,  Del.,  to  Wilmington, 
N.  C. 

The  business  district  is  concentrated  around  the  three  blocks  of  Main  Street 
between  the  river  and  the  public  square.  On  the  north  and  west  outer  edges 
of  the  town  near  the  railroad  tracks  are  the  lumber,  veneer,  cotton,  and 
hosiery  mills,  as  well  as  the  sections  where  the  cotton-mill  workers  live.  The 
Negroes,  representing  37  percent  of  the  population,  live  in  rambling,  scat- 
tered districts,  the  most  populous  at  the  south  end  of  town  along  Shepard 
and  South  Road  Streets  and  Roanoke  Avenue. 

The  harvesting  of  the  Irish  potato  crop  about  the  middle  of  June  brings 
an  influx  of  buyers,  inspectors,  and  truckers,  impartially  referred  to  by  the 
townsfolk  as  "potato  bugs."  A  similar  situation  exists  during  the  May  pea 
and  early  fall  sweet  potato  seasons.  Cotton,  corn,  peanuts,  and  soybeans  are 
the  staple  crops.  The  latter  are  grown  mainly  for  seed  purposes  and  are 
gathered  with  harvesters  manufactured  locally.  Lumber  and  cotton  manu- 
factories are  the  chief  industries. 

As  early  as  1666  Bermudians  established  themselves  on  the  Pasquotank 
River  where  they  engaged  in  shipbuilding.  In  1672  Pasquotank  County, 
named  for  an  Indian  tribe  in  the  region,  was  constituted  a  precinct  in  the 
Great  County  of  Albemarle  and  the  first  courts  were  held  at  Relfe's  Point. 
William  Edmundson  and  George  Fox  made  Quaker  converts  through  the 
section  the  same  year.  In  1706  the  first  meetinghouse  of  that  faith  in  the 
State  was  erected  in  the  county  near  the  earliest  school.  Blackbeard  roved 
these  waters  for  a  time  and  maintained  headquarters  at  the  Old  Brick  House. 
Trading  vessels  called  at  the  port  and  customs  inspections  were  held  as 
early  as  1722  at  the  Narrows  of  Pasquotank,  as  the  town  site  was  then 
called.  In  1739  Pasquotank  was  erected  into  a  county. 

The  West  India  trade,  spurred  by  the  cutting  of  the  Dismal  Swamp  Canal 
in  1790,  and  the  attendant  swarm  of  "shingle-getters"  who  came  to  grub 
out  the  swamp  timber,  led  to  the  formation  of  the  town.  The  50-acre  Nar- 
rows Plantation  of  Adam  and  Elizabeth  Tooley  was  conveyed  to  the  town 
commissioners  to  be  laid  off  in  small  tracts  and  assigned  by  lot.  First  in- 
corporated (1793)  as  Reading,  the  name  was  changed  to  Elizabeth  Town, 
either  in  honor  of  Elizabeth  Tooley  or  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  In  1799  it  re- 
placed Nixonton  (Old  Town)  as  county  seat  and  in  1801  was  named  Eliza- 
beth City. 

In  the  early  1800's  ocean-going  vessels  crowded  the  docks  where  Negro 
slaves  loaded  shingles,  barrel  staves,  and  ship  parts  to  be  exported  to  the 
West  Indies,  or  unloaded  cargoes  of  molasses,  rum,  sugar,  and  tropical  fruits. 
Three  shipyards  did  a  thriving  business  building,  overhauling,  and  repairing 
sailing  vessels.  Many  of  the  builders,  blacksmiths,  and  caulkers  were  Negro 
slaves.  Oak  bark  stripped  from  staves  was  used  to  tan  leather  and  William 
Steiger's  combined  tannery  and  bakeshop  at  Canal  Bridge  gave  the  name 
Leather  Hill  to  the  slight  rise  at  the  south  end  of  town.  Stagecoaches  made 
regular  stops,  traveling  along  the  canal  bank  from  Norfolk,  Va. 

Federal  occupation  of  the  town  in  1862  was  a  "grand,  gloomy,  and  peculiar 
time."  The  sheriff  and  many  citizens  set  fire  to  their  own  houses  at  the 
approach  of  the  Federal  fleet  and  the  brick  courthouse  was  also  burned. 


ELIZABETH    CITY  193 

Elizabeth  City  experienced  a  slow  but  steady  growth  after  the  War 
between  the  States,  particularly  in  connection  with  the  farming,  lumbering, 
and  fishing  interests  in  the  surrounding  territory,  and  the  establishment  of 
cotton  and  hosiery  mills.  However,  in  this  period  the  town's  interests,  like 
those  of  all  the  section  east  of  Chowan  River  and  north  of  Albemarle  Sound, 
were  much  more  closely  linked  with  those  of  neighboring  Virginia  cities 
than  with  the  rest  of  North  Carolina.  Before  1921  a  north-south  railroad 
and  a  few  sound  steamers  formed  the  only  oudet.  The  construction  of  good 
roads,  begun  in  1921,  and  the  Chowan  River  Bridge  (1926)  connected  the 
town  and  the  surrounding  section  economically  with  North  Carolina,  and 
the  Albemarle  country  was  "bought  back  from  Virginia,  which  long  had 
held  it  as  hostage." 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  The  PUBLIC  SQUARE,  lying  between  Martin,  Main,  and  Elliott  Sts. 
and  Colonial  Ave.,  is  a  broad  double  square  of  grassy  lawn  shaded  by  great 
elms,  oaks,  and  pecans,  and  flanked  on  three  sides  by  residences. 

The  FEDERAL  BUILDING  (open  6  a.m.-n  p.m.),  NW.  corner  Main 
and  Martin  Sts.,  erected  in  1908  and  enlarged  in  1938,  occupies  half  of  the 
square.  In  proportion  and  detail,  this  building  is  in  the  style  of  the  later 
Italian  Renaissance. 

The  PASQUOTANK  COUNTY  COURTHOUSE  {open  9-5  week- 
days), SW.  corner  of  the  square,  was  designed  and  built  by  A.  L.  West  in 
1882  of  red  brick  heavily  trimmed  with  granite.  Four  stone-faced  piers  sup- 
port a  columned  and  pedimented  porch  above  the  Main  Street  entrance.  The 
porch  is  surmounted  by  a  cupola  with  a  clock  and  bell.  The  latter  strikes  the 
hours,  rings  the  alarm  for  fires  and  lost  children,  and  sounds  the  summons 
to  court.  Deed  books  date  from  1700  and  will  books  from  1752. 

Behind  the  courthouse,  facing  Colonial  Avenue,  is  the  Agricultural 
Building,  a  red  brick  structure  in  the  Georgian  Colonial  style  erected 
(1937-38)  with  Federal  aid.  It  houses  county  offices  and  the  Elizabeth  City 
Public  Library  (open  10-1  Mon.,  Wed.,  Thur.,  Sat.;  2-6  Mon.-Fri.;  j-y  p.m. 
Tues.  and  Fri.).  On  the  2nd  floor  is  an  auditorium  seating  240. 

2.  The  JUDGE  SMALL  HOUSE  (private),  204  Colonial  Ave.,  long  the 
Pool  home,  was  erected  in  1800  on  the  site  of  the  present  Federal  Building, 
from  which  it  was  removed  in  1902  to  make  way  for  that  structure.  It  is  a 
weatherboarded  frame  house  painted  white  with  green  blinds.  Doric  columns 


Key  to  Elizabeth  City  Map 

1.  The  Public  Square.  2.  The  Judge  Small  House.  3.  The  Nash  House.  4.  The  Site 
of  Tooley's  Grog  Shop.  5.  Christ  Church.  6.  The  Fearing  House.  7.  The  Charles 
House.  8.  The  Pasquotank  River  Yacht  Club  Barge.  9.  The  Elizabeth  City  Shipyards. 
10.  The  Miles  Clark  House.     11.  The  Beveridge  House. 

a.  Post  Office,  b.  Courthouse,  c.  Chamber  of  Commerce-Merchants'  Association. 
d.  Carolina  Motor  Club.     e.  Bus  Station,     f.  Railroad  Station. 


194  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

rise  across  the  front  elevation  to  a  level  cornice  beneath  the  gabled  roof, 
forming  a  portico  with  a  second-story  balustraded  gallery.  The  building  is 
constructed  of  hand-hewn  timbers,  joined  with  wooden  pegs  and  hand- 
wrought  nails.  The  interior  is  notable  for  hand-carved  mantels,  wainscot,  and 
arched  doorways.  Officers  used  the  house  as  headquarters  during  Union 
occupation  of  the  town. 

3.  The  NASH  HOUSE  (private),  NW.  corner  Colonial  Ave.  and  Martin 
St.,  is  a  large  white  weatherboarded  structure  with  massive  chimneys,  many- 
paned  windows,  and  dormers  in  the  gabled  roof.  The  facade  is  adorned  with 
a  two-story  Doric  portico.  The  house  was  erected  in  the  early  1800's  and  was 
originally  owned  by  Quaker  Benjamin  Albertson,  who  in  1834  published 
the  Herald  of  the  Times,  "a  family  newspaper  devoted  to  news,  literature, 
science,  morality,  agriculture,  and  amusements." 

4.  The  SITE  OF  TOOLEY'S  GROG  SHOP,  112  S.  Water  St.,  is  occupied 
by  a  hardware  store.  Here  Elizabeth  Tooley  catered  to  the  Dismal  Swamp 
"shingle-getters,"  her  tippling  house  being  one  of  several,  also  called  "dog- 
geries" or  "three-cent  shops."  Thieving  slaves  found  them  a  ready  market 
for  plunder,  according  to  a  petition  presented  to  the  legislature  by  aggrieved 
planters  in  1859.  The  grog  shops,  however,  met  strong  competition  from 
the  grocery  stores,  whose  proprietors  kept  a  free  whisky  barrel  and  plenty 
of  honey  and  sugar  to  mix  with  the  liquor. 

5.  CHRIST  CHURCH  (Episcopal),  SE.  corner  Church  and  McMorine 
Sts.,  is  the  oldest  in  the  city.  The  original  building  was  erected  in  1825  on 
ground  deeded  to  the  parish  in  1790  by  descendants  of  Isaac  Sawyer,  who 
in  1761  purchased  a  250-acre  tract  from  Lord  Granville  for  10  shillings.  The 
present  Gothic  Revival  structure  with  its  ivy-clad  walls  and  steeple  was 
erected  in  1856. 

6.  The  FEARING  HOUSE  (private),  SE.  corner  S.  Road  and  Fearing  Sts., 
is  the  oldest  residence  in  Elizabeth  City.  The  original  portion  was  built  about 
1740  by  Charles  Grice,  a  shipbuilder  from  Germantown,  Pa.,  who  was  one 
of  the  town's  founders.  Isaiah  Fearing,  a  New  Englander,  moved  to  Eliza- 
beth City  after  the  War  of  1812  and  married  the  sixth  and  widowed  Mrs. 
Grice.  Members  of  the  Fearing  family  still  own  and  occupy  the  house.  The 
original  part  of  the  structure  includes  four  large  rooms  and  two  hallways 
with  hand-carved  paneling  and  hand-hewn  heartwood  timbers,  fastened  with 
wooden  pegs  and  hand-wrought  nails.  The  south  ell  was  added  in  1825  and 
the  two-story  columned  portico  and  the  north  ell  were  added  shortly  after 
the  War  between  the  States. 

7.  The  CHARLES  HOUSE  (private),  710  W.  Colonial  Ave.,  was  built 
in  the  early  1800's  by  William  Charles.  This  Greek  Revival  mansion  was 
formerly  surrounded  by  the  broad  acres  of  a  plantation  and  was  approached 
by  a  characteristic  double  row  of  elms  and  boxwoods.  The  street  facade  is 
adorned   with   a  two-story   Doric   portico   with  six    columns.   The   dentils, 


ELIZABETH    CITY  I95 

paneled  eaves,  and  soffit  of  the  cornice  reveal  a  high  order  of  craftsmanship. 
Brick  for  the  massive  end  chimneys  and  foundation  were  probably  made  on 
the  plantation.  Inside  are  hand-carved  mantels  and  two  mahogany  stair- 
ways, one  of  which  terminates  in  a  gracefully  proportioned  "monkey  tail." 
Behind  the  big  house  are  the  old  winery  and  dairy  houses  of  red  brick  with 
stout  wooden  doors  and  latticed  windows.  During  the  War  between  the 
States  the  mansion  served  as  a  hospital. 

8.  The  PASQUOTANK  RIVER  YACHT  CLUB  BARGE  {private), 
moored  just  offshore  Riverside  Ave.  beyond  the  Coast  Guard  shipyard,  is 
club  headquarters  for  moth-type  sailboat  enthusiasts.  The  moth  is  a  small 
sailing  yacht  developed  by  Capt.  Joel  Van  Sant,  after  whose  design  the 
original  Jumping  Juniper  was  constructed  at  Elizabeth  City  in  1929.  There 
are  1,500  registered  moths.  The  n-foot  craft  with  a  15-foot  sail  and  center- 
board  is  easy  to  maneuver  and  transport.  The  hull  is  of  native  juniper  (white 
cedar).  The  harbor  is  the  scene  of  the  annual  International  Moth  Regatta  for 
the  Antonia  Trophy. 

9.  The  ELIZABETH  CITY  SHIPYARDS  (open  all  hours;  telephone  office 
for  guide  and  appointment  to  board  yachts)  on  Riverside  Ave.  extend  along 
the  river  shore  for  several  hundred  yards  on  what  has  been  a  shipyard  site 
since  the  early  1800's.  The  marine  railway  accommodates  boats  up  to  200 
feet  and  800  tons  and  there  are  facilities  for  repairing  machinery  and  hulls 
of  wooden  and  steel  vessels.  Between  Riverside  Avenue  and  the  Yacht 
Basin  just  offshore,  is  a  shaded,  gardened  lawn  with  an  ingenious  sun  dial 
showing  the  time  in  Eastern  Standard  and  solar  time. 

10.  The  MILES  CLARK  HOUSE  (private),  11 14  Riverside  Ave.,  is  some- 
times mistaken  for  a  yacht  club;  its  spacious  landscaped  grounds,  gay  awn- 
ings, and  tall  flagpole  reflect  the  owner's  hobby.  The  Clark  yacht,  the  Dons, 
a  77-foot  cabin  cruiser  formerly  the  property  of  Doris  Duke  Cromwell,  is 
often  at  the  sea  wall  at  the  edge  of  the  lawn.  The  two-story  house  is  of  red 
brick  roofed  with  tile  and  topped  with  broad  flat  sun  decks.  The  south  ele- 
vation in  the  form  of  a  semicircular  bay  is  topped  with  a  low  dome.  Inside, 
the  circular  stair  well  has  a  mural  decoration  representing  the  coast  between 
Cape  Henry  and  Cape  Hatteras  with  a  lighting  arrangement  that  produces 
cloud,  storm,  or  fair-weather  effects.  The  floors  are  calked  like  a  ship's  decks, 
and  the  vaulted  ceiling  and  mahogany  paneling  of  the  drawing  room  suggest 
the  saloon  of  a  palatial  yacht. 

11.  The  BEVERIDGE  HOUSE  (private),  1208  Riverside  Ave.,  is  a  shingled 
cottage  built  over  the  river  on  brick  piers  and  reached  only  by  a  narrow  rustic 
bridge  from  the  riverbank  or  by  boat.  This  type  of  construction  was  long 
used  on  the  sound  side  at  Nags  Head  (see  tour  iA). 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  ENVIRONS 

Old  Brick  House,  10  m.,  Great  Dismal  Swamp,  15  m.  (see  tour  ic);  Wright 
Memorial,  Kitty  Hawk,  63.8  m.,  Fort  Raleigh,  83  m.  (see  tour  iA);  Bayside  Planta- 
tion, 3  m.,  Enfield  House,  3  m.  (see  tour  iB). 


FAYETTEVILLE 


Railroad  Stations:  Hay  and  Hillsboro  Sts.  for  Atlantic  Coast  Line  R.R.;  Russell  and 
Maxwell  Sts.  for  Aberdeen  &  Rockfish  R.R.;  depot  on  Hay  St.  at  E.  end  of  Rankin 
for  Norfolk  Southern  R.R. 

Bus  Station:  Franklin  and  Donaldson  Sts.  for  Carolina  Coach,  Queen  City  Coach,  Greens- 
boro-Fayetteville,  and  Greyhound  lines. 

Airport:  Municipal,  5  m.  N.  on  US  15 A;  no  scheduled  service. 

Accommodations:  4  hotels  (1  for  Negroes);  tourist  homes,  and  camps. 

Information  Service:  Chamber  of  Commerce,  Carolina  Motor  Club,  Prince  Charles  Hotel, 
Hay  St.;  Travelers  Aid,  ACL  station. 

Theaters  and  Motion  Picture  Houses:  Lafayette  Opera  House,  Person  and  Dick  Sts., 
concerts,  local  productions,  occasional  road  shows;  Little  Theater,  Bradford  Ave.,  local 
productions;  3  motion  picture  houses. 

Swimming:  Victory  Lake,  Faytex  Mill,  2  m.  S.  on  Cumberland  Rd.;  Page's  Lake  and 
picnic  grounds,  20  m.  SE.  on  State  28. 

Golf:  Country  Club  of  Fayetteville,  3  m.  N.  on  US  15 A,  9  holes,  greens  fee,  50$. 

Annual  Events:  Community  Sing,  1st  Sun.  July:  Fayetteville  Independent  Light  Infantry 
anniversary,  Aug.   23;   Cumberland  County   Fair  and   Gala  week,   usually   in  Oct. 

FAYETTEVILLE  (107  alt.,  13,049  pop.),  seat  of  Cumberland  County,  lies 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  Cape  Fear  River.  The  most  conspicuous  point  of 
interest  is  the  century-old  Market  House,  standing  "where  all  roads  meet," 
and  containing  the  old  bell  that  still  rings  the  curfew  at  9  o'clock  every 
night. 

Business  houses  line  Gillespie,  Green,  Hay,  and  Person  Streets  at  the  foot 
of  the  Haymount  Hills.  Older  residential  sections  contain  tree-shaded  struc- 
tures more  than  100  years  old.  Sherwood  Forest,  in  the  western  suburbs,  has 
some  of  the  finer  homes.  Negroes  of  the  city  live  in  several  communities,  the 
largest  of  which  is  Murchison  Heights,  on  the  north  side  of  town. 

The  white  population  is  largely  descended  from  the  first  Scottish  settlers. 
While  the  majority  of  the  city's  5,357  Negroes,  41  percent  of  the  total  popu- 
lation, are  at  the  bottom  of  the  economic  scale,  a  number  have  worked  their 
way  to  financial  security.  The  State  Normal  School  for  Negroes  has  exerted 
an  important  cultural  influence  upon  the  race. 

Fayetteville  dates  from  1739  when  Scots  led  by  Colonel  McAllister  settled 
Campbelltown,  whose  orderly  streets  are  still  distinguishable  in  the  eastern 
part  of  town  along  the  river.  In  1746-47,  a  group  of  expatriated  Scots,  men 
who  had  escaped  "the  penalty  of  death  to  one  of  every  20  survivors  of 
Culloden,"  established  a  gristmill  and  village  at  Cross  Creek,  a  mile  north- 
west of  Campbelltown,  where  they  found  two  streams  crossing  each  other. 

The  preponderance  of  Scottish  population  made  the  town  a  center  of 
Tory  influence.  Here  in  1774  came  Flora  Macdonald  and  her  husband,  Alan, 

196 


FAYETTEVILLE  I97 

who  led  troops  of  Highland  Scots  against  Whigs  at  the  Battle  of  Moores 
Creek  Bridge  (see  tour  29).  Nevertheless,  Whigs  met  here,  at  Liberty  Point, 
June  20,  1775,  and  signed  resolutions  pledging  themselves  to  "resist  force 
by  force,"  and  to  "go  forth  and  be  ready  to  sacrifice  our  lives  and  fortunes 
to  secure  freedom  and  safety." 

A  number  of  minor  encounters  took  place  in  and  about  Fayetteville  dur- 
ing the  Revolutionary  War  and  in  1781  Cornwallis  occupied  the  town  en 
route  to  Wilmington.  In  1783  the  settlements  of  Campbelltown  and  Cross 
Creek  united  and  were  incorporated.  Having  shifted  their  allegiance,  the 
citizens  named  the  place  Fayetteville,  the  first  community  so  honoring  the 
Marquis  de  Lafayette. 

Fayetteville  served  as  the  State  capital  from  1789  to  1793  and  in  the  latter 
year  missed  by  one  vote  becoming  the  permanent  seat  of  government.  On 
Nov.  21,  1789,  the  State  convention  held  here  ratified  the  Federal  Consti- 
tution. In  the  same  year  the  general  assembly,  meeting  in  Fayetteville,  char- 
tered the  University  of  North  Carolina. 

By  1823,  with  a  population  of  3,532,  Fayetteville  was  second  only  to 
Wilmington  in  size  and  commerce.  The  town  was  accessible  to  vessels  of 
light  draft  that  brought  imports  from  the  Atlantic  and  carried  back  products 
of  the  fields,  looms,  potteries,  and  forges.  A  network  of  roads  radiated  from 
the  town,  the  most  important  being  the  noted  Plank  Road  of  timbers  upon 
heavy  stringers,  which  ran  129  miles  northwest  to  Bethania. 

On  May  29,  1831,  the  most  destructive  fire  in  the  United  States  up  to  that 
time  destroyed  600  homes,  125  business  houses,  several  churches,  and  the 
convention  hall  where  sessions  of  the  general  assembly  had  been  held.  In 
1865  Sherman  occupied  the  town,  wrecked  the  only  printing  press,  and 
burned  some  of  the  mills. 

Railroads  aided  the  town's  growth  after  1870  and  the  advent  of  the  textile 
mills  offset  the  decline  of  the  turpentine  and  lumber  industries.  River  traffic 
was  suspended  in  1923,  but  in  1936  a  lock  and  dam  built  at  Tolar's  Land- 
ing made  a  9-foot  slack-water  channel  available  to  Fayetteville.  A  dock 
and  terminal  were  built  to  provide  facilities  for  revival  of  the  river  trade. 
Six  textile  mills  are  operated,  most  of  them  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
city. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  The  MARKET  HOUSE  (open  10-6:30  weekdays),  Market  Sq.,  at  the 
intersection  of  Green  and  Gillespie,  Person  and  Hay  Sts.,  houses  a  public 
library  and  relics  of  the  War  between  the  States.  This  three-bay  brick  build- 
ing has  a  hipped-roof  central  section  surmounted  by  a  tower  whose  clock 
has  run  accurately  since  1838,  when  the  building  was  erected.  Three  arched 
passageways  pierce  the  central  section  and  Ionic  pilasters  on  the  upper  walls 
separate  the  many-paned  arched  windows.  Single-story  arcaded  wings  with 
balustraded  roofs  flank  the  central  section.  The  bell  in  the  cupola  is  rung 
each  day  at  7:30  for  breakfast,  at  1  p.m.  for  dinner,  at  sunset,  and  at  9  p.m. 
for  curfew.  The  building  served  originally  as  a  slave  market;  later  it  housed 
a  public  realty  exchange  and  the  town  hall. 


FAYETTEVILLE  1 99 

The  Market  House  occupies  the  Site  of  Convention  Hall,  destroyed  by 
the  fire  of  1831.  Here  was  held  the  convention  that  ratified  the  Federal 
Constitution  (1789),  and  sessions  of  the  general  assembly  (1789-93).  On 
Mar.  4,  1825,  General  Lafayette  addressed  a  large  crowd  of  people  from  a 
stage  erected  at  the  door,  thanking  them  for  naming  the  town  in  his  honor. 
On  the  northwest  corner  is  a  bronze  tablet  commemorating  events  that  took 
place  on  the  site. 

2.  The  SANFORD  HOUSE  (private),  225  Dick  St.,  is  a  two-story  weath- 
erboarded  structure,  painted  white,  with  a  hip  roof.  It  rests  on  high  brick  base- 
ment walls.  The  porch  is  four  columns  wide  with  Ionic  details  superimposed 
upon  Doric.  The  upper  doorway  has  the  original  fanlight  and  side  lights 
but  the  lower  door  has  been  remodeled.  The  building  housed  a  bank  as  early 
as  1807  and  the  vault  is  intact  in  the  basement.  Lafayette  was  entertained 
here  in  1825.  In  one  of  the  rooms  is  a  marble  mantel  with  a  hand-carved 
design  of  two  doves  in  the  center  and  vases  of  flowers  on  the  posts.  Here  as 
a  boy  resided  Elliott  Daingerfield  (1 859-1932),  painter. 

3.  LIBERTY  POINT,  Person  and  Bow  Sts.,  was  the  scene  of  a  meeting  of 
39  patriots  who  pledged  resistance  to  Great  Britain,  June  20,  1775. 

4.  The  FIRST  PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCH,  E.  corner  Bow  and  Ann  Sts, 
was  built  about  1816,  gutted  by  fire  in  1831,  and  rebuilt  with  the  original 
walls  in  1832.  This  oblong  brick  building  has  a  spacious  portico  with  six 
square  columns  and  a  simple  steeple.  In  the  vestibule  are  a  marble-topped 
mahogany  table  and  sacramental  silver  dating  from  1824.  For  many  years 
whale  oil  was  burned  in  the  ornamental  chandeliers. 

5.  The  MACKEITHAN  HOUSE  (private),  Cool  Spring  St.  and  Cool 
Spring  Lane,  built  in  1778,  served  in  ante-bellum  days  as  a  tavern.  This 
white-painted  frame  house  has  a  two-story  porch  across  the  front.  The  steep- 
pitched  roof  is  flanked  by  massive  end  chimneys. 

6.  COOL  SPRING,  NW.  corner  Cool  Spring  St.  and  Cool  Spring  Lane,  on 
the  bank  of  Cross  Creek,  was  a  source  of  drinking  water  before  the  War 


Key  to  Fayetteville  Map 

1.  The  Market  House.  2.  The  Sanford  House.  3.  Liberty  Point.  4.  The  First  Pres- 
byterian Church.  5.  The  Mackeithan  House.  6.  Cool  Spring.  7.  The  Site  of  Pember- 
ton's  (McNeill's)  Mill.  8.  The  Site  of  Cross  Creek.  9.  The  McLaughlin  House.  10.  The 
James  Dobbin  McNeill  Monument.  11.  The  Site  of  Flora  MacDonald's  Home. 
12.  McNeill's  Mill.  13.  St.  John's  Episcopal  Church.  14.  The  Masonic  Building. 
15.  The  Armory.  16.  The  Methodist  Church.  17.  The  Hale  (McNeill)  Home.  18.  The 
Site  of  the  Confederate  Arsenal.  19.  The  State  Normal  School  for  Negroes.  20.  James 
Square.     21.  Cross  Creek  Cemetery. 

a-b.  Chamber  of  Commerce  and  Carolina  Motor  Club.  c.  Norfolk  Southern  R.R. 
Station,  d.  Atlantic  Coast  Line  R.R.  Station,  e.  Aberdeen  &  Rockfish  R.R.  Station. 
f.  Bus  Station,  g.  Cross  Creek  Park.  h.  Highland  Ball  Park.  1.  Fayetteville  Country 
Club.     k.  Victory  Lake.     l.  Page's  Lake. 


200  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

between  the  States.  At  the  head  of  the  steps  leading  to  the  spring  is  the  Site 
of  the  Flora  Macdonald  Rally,  where  she  spurred  the  Highland  Scots 
to  fight  for  England.  According  to  tradition  Flora  Macdonald,  then  52  years 
of  age,  rode  up  and  down  the  line  on  a  white  horse,  cheering  the  soldiers. 

7.  The  SITE  OF  PEMBERTON'S  (McNEILL'S)  MILL,  Cool  Spring  St. 
opposite  the  spring,  is  occupied  by  a  water-driven  machine  shop.  In  1861 
a  mill  that  manufactured  gray  cloth  for  Confederate  uniforms  stood  here. 

8.  The  SITE  OF  CROSS  CREEK  is  visible  from  the  intersection  of  Grove 
and  Kennedy  Sts.  The  name  derives  from  two  small  creeks,  Cross  from  the 
west  and  Blount  from  the  south,  that  met  and  apparently  separated,  forming 
an  island  of  some  size.  It  was  said  that  the  streams,  when  swollen  from  the 
rains,  actually  crossed  each  other  in  their  rapid  course.  A  cotton  mill,  built 
about  1840  by  De  Gross,  a  Frenchman,  eliminated  the  crossing.  The  mill  was 
razed  by  Sherman's  troops  in  1865. 

9.  The  McLAUGHLIN  HOUSE  (closed),  SW.  corner  Person  and  B  Sts., 
is  a  century-old  dwelling  of  hand-hewn  weatherboards,  12  inches  wide.  A 
winding  stairway  and  a  walnut  mantel  carved  with  a  fan  design  are  unusual 
features  of  the  interior. 

10.  The  JAMES  DOBBIN  McNEILL  MONUMENT,  SE.  corner  Green 
and  Bow  Sts.,  is  a  rough-hewn,  flat-faced  boulder  carved  with  fire  hose 
winding  around  small  bronze  tablets  surmounted  by  a  bronze  eagle.  A  cen- 
tral tablet  bears  a  profile  and  record  of  James  D.  McNeill  (1850-1927),  six 
times  mayor,  commander  of  the  Fayetteville  Division  of  North  Carolina 
Naval  Reserves,  captain  of  the  Red  Shirts  (see  Wilmington),  and  organizer 
and  for  26  years  president  of  the  State  Firemen's  Association. 

11.  The  SITE  OF  FLORA  MACDONALD'S  HOME,  NE.  corner  Green 
and  Bow  Sts.,  where  she  lived  in  1775,  is  occupied  by  a  filling  station.  Born 
in  the  Hebrides  in  1722,  Flora  was  a  member  of  the  Clanranald  branch  of 
the  Macdonald  clan,  whose  men  supported  Bonnie  Prince  Charlie,  last  of 
the  Stuart  pretenders  to  Britain's  throne.  After  his  defeat  at  Culloden,  the 
royal  fugitive,  with  a  price  upon  his  head,  fled  to  the  Hebrides.  Determined 
to  save  him,  Flora  disguised  the  prince  as  a  servant  girl  and  smuggled  him 
safely  across  the  water  to  the  Isle  of  Skye  whence  he  escaped  to  France.  Her 
ruse  discovered,  she  was  arrested,  but  her  courage  and  beauty  won  the  public 
heart  and  she  was  released  to  become  an  idol  of  London  society.  In  1750 
she  married  Alan  Macdonald,  son  of  the  Laird  of  Kingsbury,  and  in  1774, 
the  Macdonalds,  with  the  blessing  of  George  III,  emigrated  to  America  and 
settled  on  Cross  Creek.  Because  of  their  strong  royalist  sentiments,  their 
properties  were  confiscated  and  Alan  Macdonald  was  imprisoned.  Flora  fled 
to  Wilmington,  sold  part  of  her  possessions  for  passage,  and  returned  to 
Scotland.  A  college  at  Red  Springs  is  named  in  her  honor. 

12.  McNEILL'S  MILL,  NW.  corner  Green  and  Old  Sts.,  a  square  wooden 
building  darkened  by  age,  rests  on  the  foundations  of  the  town's  oldest  in- 


FAYETTEVILLE  201 

dustrial  plant,  a  gristmill  erected  in  1764  by  Robert  Cochrane  of  Pennsyl- 
vania. Capt.  James  D.  McNeill,  an  early  owner,  evolved  the  slogan:  "The 
mill  was  here  before  the  town  was;  the  mill  will  be  here  when  the  town 
ain't."  The  present  mill,  built  in  1832  and  still  owned  by  the  McNeill  family, 
uses  parts  that  are  more  than  a  century  old. 

13.  ST.  JOHN'S  EPISCOPAL  CHURCH,  242  Green  St.,  was  erected  in 
1 8 17,  burned  in  1831,  and  rebuilt  with  the  original  walls  in  the  Gothic  Re- 
vival style.  The  181 7  structure  was  one  of  the  most  elaborate  brick  churches 
of  the  period.  It  was  "built  something  in  the  Gothic"  and  had  a  fine  organ, 
clock,  and  bell. 

14.  The  MASONIC  BUILDING  (open  to  members  only),  221  Mason  St., 
home  of  Fayetteville  Masons  since  it  was  built  in  1858,  is  a  two-story  clap- 
board structure  with  small  porches  on  two  sides,  painted  gray  and  trimmed 
in  white.  When  organized  and  chartered  in  1760  by  the  Grand  Lodge  of 
Masons  in  Scotland,  it  was  called  Union  Lodge;  in  1788  its  name  was  changed 
to  Phoenix  Lodge. 

15.  The  ARMORY  (open  for  dances,  boxing  matches,  etc.),  214  Burgess 
St.,  a  one-story  white  brick  building  erected  in  1933,  is  headquarters  for  the 
Fayetteville  Independent  Light  Infantry,  organized  in  1793  and  reputed  to 
be  the  second  oldest  military  organization  in  continuous  service  in  the  United 
States.  The  unit  has  served  in  every  national  war  since  its  founding  and  was 
a  part  of  the  30th  Division  in  the  World  War.  Its  motto  is:  "He  that  hath 
no  stomach  to  this  fight,  let  him  depart." 

16.  The  METHODIST  CHURCH,  NW.  corner  Hay  and  Old  Sts.,  dedi- 
cated in  1908,  is  the  red  brick  steepled  edifice  of  a  Methodist  organization 
that  originated  in  the  late  1770's  from  a  weekly  "preaching"  by  Henry 
Evans,  a  free  Negro  shoemaker.  White  members  of  the  congregation  erected 
a  chapel  for  themselves  in  1803,  and  their  Sunday  school,  organized  in  1819, 
is  the  earliest  Methodist  Sunday  school  in  the  State  of  which  there  is 
authentic  record. 

17.  THE  HALE  (McNEILL)  HOME  (private),  NW.  corner  Hay  and 
Hale  Sts.,  is  a  two-story  brick  dwelling  built  in  1847  and  first  called  Green- 
bank.  The  mahogany  rails  and  posts  of  the  interior  stairway  were  made 
in  Scotland.  Two  rooms  have  mantels  of  black  marble,  fanciful  heavy  mold- 
ings, and  gas  fixtures.  The  thick  doors  are  dressed  with  huge  locks.  All 
timbers  are  mortised  and  fastened  with  wooden  pins. 

18.  The  SITE  OF  THE  CONFEDERATE  ARSENAL,  SW.  corner  Hay 
St.  and  Maple  Ave.,  destroyed  by  Confederates  before  Sherman's  occupation 
in  1865,  is  identified  by  a  marker. 

19.  The  STATE  NORMAL  SCHOOL  FOR  NEGROES,  Murchison  Rd. 
at  NW.  city  limits,  established  in  1877,  is  the  oldest  normal  school  in  North 


202  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

Carolina.  The  plant  includes  12  brick  buildings  and  a  library  of  30,000  vol- 
umes. There  are  more  than  500  students  and  a  faculty  of  52.  Dr.  E.  E.  Smith, 
who  served  as  principal  (1 883-1 933),  and  during  leaves  was  United  States 
Minister  to  Liberia  and  an  adjutant  in  the  Spanish-American  War,  is  hon- 
ored by  a  marble  tablet  on  the  campus.  Charles  W.  Chesnutt  (1 852-1932), 
one-time  principal,  was  the  author  of  short  stories  and  novels. 

20.  JAMES  SQUARE,  intersection  Ramsey,  Green,  Rowan,  and  Grove  Sts., 
is  on  the  site  of  the  first  Cumberland  County  Courthouse,  built  about  1755. 
In  the  center  of  a  grassy  circle  is  a  Confederate  Monument,  the  heroic  iron 
figure  of  a  soldier,  mounted  on  a  15-foot  granite  pedestal.  The  square  was 
named  for  James  Hogg,  a  prominent  early  citizen. 

21.  CROSS  CREEK  CEMETERY,  Grove  St.  between  Ann  St.  and  Cross 
Creek,  shaded  by  ancient  cedars  and  pines,  contains  the  graves  of  many 
Scottish  settlers.  Confederate  soldiers  are  buried  around  the  Confederate 
Monument,  erected  Dec.  30,  1868,  earliest  memorial  to  the  Lost  Cause.  It  is 
a  10-foot  octagonal  shaft  on  a  white  marble  base  surmounted  by  a  cross,  de- 
signed by  George  Lauder.  Here  also  is  the  grave  of  the  artist,  Elliott  Dainger- 
field. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  ENVIRONS 

Old  Bluff,  Scottish  Presbyterian  Church,  14.5  m.  (see  tour  3);  Fort  Bragg,  U.  S. 
Military  Reservation,  10  m.  (see  tour  3A);  the  Parapet  (earthen  fortress),  1  m., 
Duncan  Shaw  House,  9.5  m.,  State  Fish  Hatchery  and  Game  Farm,  10  rrr.  (see 
tour  9). 


GREENSBORO 


Railroad  Station:  Joint  terminal,  E.  Washington  and  Forbis  Sts.,  for  Southern  Ry.  and 
Atlantic  &  Yadkin  R.R. 

Bits  Station:  Union  terminal,  226  E.  Market  St.,  for  Carolina  Coach  Co.,  Atlantic  Grey- 
hound, and  Greensboro-Fayetteville  lines. 

Airport:  Greensboro-High  Point  (Lindley  Field),  9.4  m.  W.  of  Jefferson  Sq.  on  US  421, 
for  Eastern  Air  Lines. 

Taxis:  1  to  4  passengers,  25^  and  up. 

City  Buses:  Fare  io</',  trackless  trolleys  7^;  trolleys  and  buses  meet  at  Jefferson  Sq.; 
4  tokens  25^  on  each  line. 

Traffic  Regulations:  Turns  prohibited  at  intersections  indicated  by  signs  on  traffic  lights: 
parking  restrictions  indicated  by  signs. 

Accommodations:  10  hotels  (2  for  Negroes);  boarding  houses  and  tourist  homes. 

Information  Service:  Chamber  of  Commerce,  Jefferson  Standard  Life  Insurance  Bldg. ; 
Carolina  Motor  Club,  229  N.  Elm.  St. 

Radio  Station:  WBIG  (1440  kc). 

Theaters  and  Motion  Picture  Houses:  Aycock  Auditorium,  Woman's  College,  U.  N.  C, 

Spring  Garden  and  Tate  Sts.;  Odell  Memorial  Auditorium,  Greensboro  College,  College 

Place  off  W.  Market  St.;  Senior  High  School  Auditorium,  Westover  Terrace,  concerts, 

lectures,  and  plays;  8  motion  picture  houses  (1  for  Negroes). 
Swimming:  Hamilton  Lakes,  3  m.  W.  of  Jefferson  Sq.  on  US  421;  Greensboro  Country 

Park,   5   m.   NW.    of   Jefferson   Sq.   on   US   220,  R.    0.5   m.;   Nocho    Recreation   Park 

(Negro),  E.  Bragg  St.  and  Benbow  Rd.;  Ritter's  Lake,  5  m.  S.  on  US  220;  Oakhurst 

Swimming  Pool,  W.  on  US  29-70  at  city  limits. 
Golf:  Sedgefield  Country  Club,  9  m.  W.  of  Jefferson  Sq.  on  US  29-70,  18  holes,  greens 

fee,  $1.50   weekdays,   $2    Sat.,    Sun.,   and   holidays;    Starmount    Golf  Club,    Hamilton 

Lakes,  3  m.  W.  of  Jefferson  Sq.  on  US  421,  18  holes,  greens  fee,  $1  weekdays,  $1.50 

Sat.,  Sun.,  and  holidays. 
Tennis:  Memorial   Stadium,  Bagley  and   Dewey  Sts.,  8   courts;  Sedgefield,   9   m.   W.   of 

Jefferson  Sq.  on  US  29-70.     The  city  maintains  30  other  courts;   call  City  Recreation 
.  Dept.  to  reserve  court  for  1  hi. 

Baseball  and  Football:  Memorial  Stadium,  Bagley  and  Dewey  Sts. 
Riding:  Sedgefield  Riding  Academy,  7.2  m.  W.  on  US  29-70,  L.  on  Groome  Town  Rd.; 

Mary  Lee  Riding  Academy,  4.1  m.  W.  of  Jefferson  Sq.  on  US  29-70,  L.  on  Yow  St. 
Hunting  and  Fishing:  Lake  Brandt  (municipal),  10  m.  NW.;  Greensboro  Country  Park, 

5.5  m.   NW.  of  Jefferson  Sq.  on  US  220;  inquire  Chamber  of  Commerce,  or  game 

warden,  county  courthouse. 

Annual  Events:  State  high  school  music  contest,  3rd  wk.  Apr.;  Garden  Club  show,  around 
May  15;  golf  tournaments,  spring  and  fall  for  women,  championship  for  men  in  fall; 
Kennel  Club  show,  in  fall;  Central  North  Carolina  Fair,  in  fall;  State  high  school 
track  meet,  in  fall. 

GREENSBORO  (838  alt.,  53,569  pop.),  at  the  eastern  point  of  the  triangle 
of  close-lying  cities  that  includes  Winston-Salem,  the  tobacco  town,  on  the 
west,  and  furniture-manufacturing  High  Point  at  the  southern  apex,  is  typi- 
cal of  the  industrial  Piedmont  from  which  the  community  draws  its  raw 
materials,  electric  energy,  manpower,  and  trade.  The  city  is  an  educational 

203 


204  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

and  textile-manufacturing  center,  though  its  diversified  industries  also  pro- 
duce structural  steel,  chemicals,  and  terra  cotta. 

In  the  business  section,  new  structures  tower  above  old  outmoded  build- 
ings. The  Jefferson  Standard  Building  dominates  the  sky  line  and  marks 
the  city's  center  at  Jefferson  Square,  where  Market  and  Elm  Streets  cross. 
The  streets  are  broad,  and  in  the  residential  sections  are  shaded  by  stately 
oaks,  maples,  and  other  trees. 

The  newer  homes  are  in  such  subdivisions  as  Sunset  Hills,  Westerwood, 
Lake  Daniel,  Fisher,  Lathan,  and  Irving  Parks;  many  fine  old  houses  lie 
along  the  city's  original  streets.  Trim  lawns  and  gardens  are  everywhere  in 
evidence  and  public  parks  and  playgrounds  are  numerous. 

The  industrial  areas  stretch  along  the  railroads  for  2  miles  on  either  side 
of  town.  Four  white-cottaged  mill  communities  in  the  northeast  section 
indicate  the  importance  of  the  textile  industry. 

The  city's  14,050  Negroes,  26  percent  of  the  total  population,  live  in  more 
or  less  scattered  segregated  areas.  Warnerville,  in  the  southwest  part  of  the 
city,  has  hundreds  of  commonplace  houses  occupied  by  Negroes  of  the  labor- 
ing class.  The  largest  Negro  section  is  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  city,  where 
the  professional  and  cultural  groups  occupy  attractive  homes.  Negroes  of  the 
city  maintain  their  own  library,  theater,  dramatic  and  literary  societies,  and 
have  recreational  facilities  such  as  ball  parks,  swimming  pools,  and  play- 
grounds. 

The  earliest  Quaker,  German,  and  Scotch-Irish  settlers  in  the  country 
around  Greensboro  were  small  freeholders,  whose  zeal  for  religious,  eco- 
nomic, and  political  freedom  dotted  the  region  with  churches,  wrested  pros- 
perity from  the  wilderness,  and  helped  win  independence  from  the  British 
Crown. 

The  city  occupies  part  of  the  original  grant  in  1749  from  John  Carteret, 
Earl  of  Granville,  to  the  Nottingham  Company,  for  settlement  of  a  colony 
of  Scotch-Irish  Presbyterians  on  the  waters  of  North  Buffalo  and  Reedy  Fork 
Creeks.  To  the  east,  on  Stinking  Creek,  a  German  colony  settled  at  the 
same  time,  and  to  the  west,  along  Deep  River  and  its  tributaries,  two  groups 
of  Quakers  took  up  lands. 

In  1770  Guilford  County,  also  known  as  Unity  Parish,  was  created  from 
portions  of  Orange  and  Rowan  Counties.  The  name  honors  Lord  North, 
Prime  Minister  of  England  and  Earl  of  Guilford.  The  first  courthouse,  of 
logs,  was  built  5  miles  northwest  of  Greensboro  in  1774.  Around  it  grew 
up  the  straggling  village  of  Guilford  Courthouse,  whose  name,  after  the 
Revolution,  was  changed  to  Martinsville  in  honor  of  Alexander  Martin, 
Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1782-85;  1789-92),  and  delegate  to  the  Con- 
stitutional Convention  in  Philadelphia.  Of  this  village  there  is  no  remaining 
trace. 

Men  from  Guilford  County  played  a  prominent  part  in  the  Battle  of 
Alamance  in  1771,  where  Regulators  clashed  with  Governor  Tryon's  troops. 
Cornwallis,  who  invaded  the  county  in  1781,  was  all  but  defeated  at  the 
Battle  of  Guilford  Courthouse  on  Mar.  15  {see  tour  13).  Such  leaders  as 
Colonels  John  Paisley,  William  Dent,  and  Arthur  Forbis  commanded  troops 
recruited  from  the  region. 


GREENSBORO  205 

Because  Martinsville  was  not  centrally  situated,  the  general  assembly  in 
1808  authorized  commissioners  to  purchase  and  lay  off  a  tract  of  42  acres 
at  the  geographic  center  of  the  county.  The  new  town  was  named  Greens- 
boro in  honor  of  Gen.  Nathanael  Greene,  leader  of  the  Colonial  forces  at 
Guilford  Courthouse. 

Two  companies  were  recruited  for  the  War  of  1812.  People  of  the  county 
were  generally  opposed  to  secession  in  i860,  but  when  North  Carolina  took 
its  stand  with  the  Confederacy,  180  men  marched  away  with  the  Guilford 
Grays,  besides  those  who  enlisted  in  other  units.  The  city  served  as  a  Con- 
federate depot  for  supplies  and  specie.  Jefferson  Davis,  fleeing  southward 
after  the  fall  of  Richmond,  met  Gen.  J.  E.  Johnston  here  to  decide  on  sur- 
render to  Sherman  and  also  held  here  a  meeting  with  his  cabinet  in  April 
1865.  Nearly  7,000  Confederate  troops  were  paroled  in  Greensboro  after  the 
surrender. 

Early  in  the  19th  century  there  were  factories  for  making  chairs,  carriages, 
wool  and  fur  hats,  and  tobacco  products.  About  1833  the  first  steam  cotton 
mill,  the  nucleus  of  the  textile  industry,  was  placed  in  operation. 

After  the  War  between  the  States,  the  Negro  district  known  as  Warner- 
ville  was  founded  by  Yardley  Warner,  a  Quaker,  who  purchased  34  acres, 
divided  the  land  into  half-acre  tracts,  and  sold  them  to  the  freedmen  on 
liberal  terms.  In  later  years  the  land  has  been  divided,  added  to,  and  resold. 

Since  1890,  when  the  city's  population  was  3,317,  Greensboro's  progress 
has  been  rapid.  Ceasar  and  Moses  Cone  established  textile  mills,  which  were 
followed  by  other  mills  and  factories.  Greensboro's  115  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments employ  about  12,000  persons  and  produce  annually  products  val- 
ued at  60  million  dollars.  The  home  offices  of  several  large  insurance  com- 
panies are  maintained  in  the  city. 

Since  Dr.  David  Caldwell  established  his  "log  college"  in  1767,  Greens- 
boro encouraged  learning  and  now  has  six  colleges  in  the  city  or  immediate 
environs,  three  of  them  for  Negroes.  Minister,  physician,  teacher,  and  states- 
man, Dr.  Caldwell  served  as  a  delegate  to  the  first  constitutional  convention  in 
Halifax  in  1776.  His  log  college  had  an  enrollment  of  about  50  and  served 
as  "an  academy,  a  college,  and  the  theological  seminary."  From  it  were 
graduated  men  who  became  leaders  in  this  and  neighboring  States.  By  1820 
the  Greensboro  Female  Academy  had  been  founded,  and  other  academies, 
boarding  schools,  and  seminaries  followed. 

The  Euterpe  Club,  organized  in  1889  as  the  Coney  Club,  has  helped 
develop  music  appreciation,  and  the  Civic  Music  Association  brings  noted 
musicians  to  the  city.  Woman's  College  sponsors  an  annual  North  Carolina 
High  School  music  contest  which  in  1938  brought  5,100  participants.  Well- 
trained  glee  clubs  are  maintained  by  the  Woman's  College,  Greensboro  Col- 
lege, and  by  two  of  the  Negro  colleges:  Bennett,  and  the  Agricultural  and 
Technical  College. 

William  Sydney  Porter  (O.  Henry,  1862-1910)  was  born  in  Greensboro 
and  as  a  boy  worked  in  a  local  drug  store.  About  1880  he  was  playing  second 
violin  in  a  string  orchestra  formed  primarily  for  serenading  the  young 
women  of  Greensboro  Female  Academy.  The  Greensboro  Record  quoted  an 
associate  of  Porter's:  "I  can  see  Will  Porter  right  now  with  his  foot  on  a 


206  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

stump  and  his  fiddle  across  his  knee  saying  to  Charlie  Collins,  'Charlie, 
gimme  your  A'.  .  .  One  number  we  sure  could  play — the  old  Saltello  Waltz — 
because  we  played  it  at  every  concert  .  .  .  The  funny  thing  about  this  waltz 
was  that  so  far  as  we  knew  it  had  no  stopping  place,  no  end.  We  just  kept 
on  playing  and  playing  until  Charlie  Collins  would  say,  'Look  out  fellers, 
I'm  going  to  stop!'  " 

Other  literary  figures  associated  with  the  city  are  Wilbur  Daniel  Steele 
(b.  1886),  four  times  winner  of  the  O.  Henry  Memorial  Award,  and  Albion 
Winegar  Tourgee,  a  prolific  writer  of  Reconstruction  days,  who  came  to 
Greensboro  in  1865,  and  is  best  known  for  his  A  Fool's  Errand. 

Richard  Berry  Harrison,  Negro  actor  who  played  the  character  of  "De 
Lawd"  in  Marc  Connelly's  play,  the  Green  Pastures,  was  for  seven  years 
head  of  the  dramatic  department  of  the  Agricultural  and  Technical  College. 
Charles  Winter  Wood,  his  successor  in  the  role  and  organizer  of  the  first 
professional  stock  company  for  Negroes  in  America,  is  head  of  the  drama 
department  of  Bennett  College. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  The  JEFFERSON  STANDARD  LIFE  INSURANCE  BUILDING 
(1923),  Jefferson  Sq.,  NW.  corner  Market  and  Elm  Sts.,  was  designed  by 
Charles  C.  Hartmann.  This  17-story  structure  of  modified  Gothic  design,  is 
the  tallest  building  in  the  city.  The  top  floor,  occupied  by  a  restaurant,  gives 
a  panoramic  view  of  the  surrounding  country. 

2.  The  MASONIC  TEMPLE  (open  9-1 1,  2-5  daily),  426  W.  Market  St.,  is 
a  two-story  marble  and  granite  structure  of  neoclassic  architecture.  It  was 
designed  by  John  B.  Crawford,  and  built  in  1928.  A  marker  in  front  recalls 
that  the  building  stands  on  the  site  of  O.  Henry's  birthplace.  The  Masonic 
Museum,  founded  in  1933,  contains  Masonic  relics. 

3.  The  SHERWOOD  HOME  {private),  426  Gaston  St.,  was  erected  in 
1843.  This  red  brick  dwelling  with  white  colonnaded  portico  was  built  by 
M.  S.  Sherwood,  who  once  published  the  Greensboro  Patriot,  founded  in 
1826.  Lyndon  Swaim,  a  later  editor,  and  his  step-daughter,  Mary  Swaim — 
mother  of  O.  Henry — lived  here. 

4.  The  main  building  at  Keeley  Institute,  447  W.  Washington  St.,  is 
BLANDWOOD  (open;  telephone  for  permission),  a  rectangular  two-story 
structure  of  gray  stuccoed  brick.  At  the  entrance  is  a  square  flat-topped  tower 
of  three  stories  with  arches  in  three  sides  of  the  first  story.  Built  in  1825, 
Blandwood  was  originally  the  home  of  John  Motley  Morehead,  Governor  of 
North  Carolina  (1841-45).  Gen.  Pierre  G.  T.  Beauregard  and  his  staff,  mov- 
ing troops  to  join  Lee  in  Virginia,  were  guests  here  for  several  days  in 
1865.  In  1897  the  house  was  converted  into  a  sanitarium.  The  east  and  west 
wings  were  added  in  1905. 

5.  GREENSBORO  COLLEGE,  main  entrance  on  W.  Market  St.  between 
S.  Cedar  St.  and  College  PL,  is  one  of  the  oldest  Methodist   colleges  for 


GREENSBORO  1QT] 

women  in  the  world.  Its  ivy-covered  brick  buildings  are  set  in  a  25-acre, 
tree-shaded  campus.  The  1937-38  enrollment  was  about  250. 

A  year  before  the  charter  was  obtained  (1838),  the  trustees  of  the  Greens- 
boro Female  College  purchased  210  acres  west  of  Greensboro,  40  of  which 
they  reserved,  while  the  rest  eventually  was  sold  for  nearly  enough  to  pay 
the  original  purchase  price.  The  cornerstone  of  the  first  building  was  laid 
in  1843  and  the  school  opened  in  1846  with  the  Rev.  Solomon  Lea,  of  Leasburg 
{see  tour  24b),  as  head  of  the  first  faculty.  After  a  disastrous  fire  in  1863  the 
school  was  rechartered  in   1869,  though  not  reopened  until  1873. 

The  Main  Building  (1904)  is  a  three-story  brick  structure  of  wide  pro- 
portions trimmed  with  white  stone.  From  the  central  rotunda,  supported 
by  Doric  columns  and  topped  with  a  low  open  cupola,  wings  extend  in  three 
directions.  The  reception  hall  contains  portraits  of  former  officials  of  the 
college.  The  second  floor  of  the  rotunda  contains  the  library.  The  art  depart- 
ment is  housed  on  the  third  floor.  Fitzgerald  Hall,  erected  in  191 2  and 
named  for  J.  W.  Fitzgerald,  is  a  two-story  brick  building  ornamented  with 
three  Doric  porticoes.  Hudson  Hall,  built  in  19 17,  a  duplicate  of  Fitz- 
gerald Hall,  was  named  in  honor  of  Mrs.  Mary  Lee  Hudson.  Odell 
Memorial  Building,  containing  the  college  auditorium  {open  for  school 
entertainments ,  etc.)  on  College  Place  just  off  the  campus,  erected  in  1922 
and  named  for  J.  A.  Odell,  is  a  two-story  brick  building  with  a  Roman 
arched  entrance.  Atop  the  structure  is  a  flat  balustraded  promenade. 

6.  The  OLD  BUMPASS  HOME  {private),  114  S.  Mendenhall  St.,  was 
erected  in  1847  by  the  Rev.  Sidney  Bumpass,  prominent  Southern  Methodist 
minister.  The  red  brick  structure  of  modified  Georgian  Colonial  architec- 
ture is  fronted  by  a  portico  with  four  limestone  Doric  columns  and  is  shaded 
by  great  oaks.  A  Methodist  paper,  the  Weekly  Message,  was  published  here 
and  the  house  was  used  for  religious  meetings.  After  the  death  of  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Bumpass  in  1857,  his  widow  continued  the  work.  Because  of  her  active 
participation  in  the  temperance  movement,  community  betterment,  and  the 
religious  life  of  the  region,  the  section  around  this  house  became  known 
as  Piety  Hill. 

7.  The  WOMAN'S  COLLEGE  OF  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  NORTH 
CAROLINA  {buildings  open  during  school  hours  unless  otherwise  noted), 


Key  to  Greensboro  Map 

1.  The  Jefferson  Standard  Life  Insurance  Building.  2.  The  Masonic  Temple.  3.  The 
Sherwood  Home.  4.  Blandwood.  5.  Greensboro  College.  6.  The  Old  Bumpass  Home. 
7.  The  Woman's  College  of  the  University  of  North  Carolina.  8.  Idlewood.  9.  The 
Buffalo  Presbyterian  Church.  10.  The  Cone  Textile  Mills.  11.  World  War  Stadium. 
12.  Dunleith.  13.  Community  Center.  14.  The  Agricultural  and  Technical  College  of 
North  Carolina.     15.  Bennett  College.     16.  The  Settle  Home. 

a.  Post  Office,  b.  Chamber  of  Commerce,  c.  Carolina  Motor  Club.  d.  Railroad  Station. 
e.  Union  Bus  Terminal.  F.  Stadium,  g.  Central  Carolina  Fair  Association  Grounds. 
h.  Greensboro  Country  Club.  1.  Sedgefield  Country  Club.  k.  Starmount  Golf  Club. 
l.  Airport. 


210  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

Tate  and  Spring  Garden  Sts.,  one  of  the  largest  woman's  colleges  in  the 
United  States,  has  a  no-acre  campus  and  45  buildings.  It  was  founded  by 
Dr.  Charles  D.  Mclver  as  the  State  Normal  and  Industrial  School,  and 
opened  in  1892.  The  institution  later  became  known  as  the  North  Carolina 
College  for  Women.  In  1931  it  was  made  a  unit  of  the  Greater  University. 
The  college  confers  five  degrees  for  courses  in  liberal  arts,  sciences,  educa- 
tion, home  economics,  and  music,  and  had  an  enrollment  of  1,891  for  the 

The  main  entrance  is  from  Spring  Garden  Street  on  College  Street.  A 
driveway  runs  (R)  from  College  Street  past  the  Administration  Building, 
constructed  in  1892  of  red  brick  with  Mount  Airy  granite  and  limestone 
trim.  Towerlike  structures  flanking  the  entrance  and  containing  bay  win- 
dows rise  to  the  roof  level  where  they  terminate  in  low  spires.  The  McIver 
Building,  built  in  1908,  is  a  three-story  structure  of  red  brick  with  lime- 
stone trim  in  three  sections,  east  and  west  wings  having  been  added.  A 
pedimented  two-story  Ionic  portico  rises  from  the  second  story  level.  The 
building  contains  lecture  rooms,  laboratories,  and  offices.  On  the  front  lawn 
is  the  life-size,  bronze  Monument  to  Charles  Duncan  McIver,  founder, 
by  F.  Wellington  Ruckstuhl,  a  replica  of  that  on  the  capitol  grounds  at 
Raleigh. 

The  Alumnae  Building,  erected  in  1935  of  red  brick  and  marble  trim, 
houses  offices  of  the  alumnae,  student  government  association,  and  student 
publications.  Three  brick  walks  approach  the  marble  entrance  portico, 
adorned  with  Corinthian  columns  and  a  classic  entablature.  The  Students' 
Building,  of  red  brick  with  granite  and  limestone  trim,  was  erected  in 
1901.  It  is  of  modified  Romanesque-Gothic  design  with  ornamented  gables. 

The  Library  Building  (open  weekdays,  summers  y:^  a.m.-g:^o  p.m.; 
winter  8  a.m.-io  p.m.)  was  erected  in  1905,  a  gift  of  Andrew  Carnegie, 
damaged  by  fire  in  1932,  and  rebuilt  and  enlarged  in  1933.  The  two-story 
red  brick  structure,  trimmed  with  limestone,  has  a  central  entrance  orna- 
mented with  Ionic  pilasters.  It  contains  45,000  volumes. 

Spencer  Hall,  built  in  1904,  is  a  succession  of  red  brick  buildings  trimmed 
with  granite.  On  the  Walker  Avenue  facade  is  a  Georgian  Colonial  portal, 
and  on  the  College  Street  side  are  gabled  entrances  with  colonnaded  por- 
ticoes and  peaked  dormers. 

West  of  the  dormitory  group  is  the  new  athletic  field  and  the  new  gym- 
nasium. The  Aycock  Building  (open  for  chapel,  lectures,  plays,  etc.),  cor- 
ner Tate  and  Spring  Garden  Sts.,  contains  offices  and  an  auditorium. 

8.  IDLEWOOD  (rose  garden  open  May  and  ]une,  day  and  night),  Inde- 
pendence Rd.,  estate  of  Mrs.  C.  C.  Hudson,  contains  8,000  varieties  of  plants 
and  flowers  on  an  estate  of  12  acres,  including  1,500  varieties  of  roses. 

9.  The  BUFFALO  PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCH,  Church  St.  extension  at 
northern  city  limits,  commonly  called  Old  Buffalo,  was  built  in  1827,  the 
third  church  on  the  site.  The  congregation  was  organized  in  1756.  The 
structure  of  hand-made  brick  is  of  southern  post-Colonial  architecture.  It 


GREENSBORO  211 

was  originally  designed  as  a  one-story  building,  but  space  was  added  before 
the  War  between  the  States  for  a  loft,  just  over  the  entrance,  to  be  occupied 
by  Negroes,  and  a  portico  with  four  white  columns  was  erected  across  the 
front.  The  fine  oaks  surrounding  the  structure  are  older  than  the  church. 
The  old  burying  ground  behind  the  church  contains  the  graves  of  the  first 
pastor,  Dr.  David  Caldwell,  and  other  Revolutionary  patriots  including 
Gen.  Daniel  Gillespie. 

10.  The  CONE  TEXTILE  MILLS  (not  open  to  public)  are  situated  in  four 
villages  occupying  the  northeastern  section  of  the  city,  in  a  2V2  square-mile 
area  north  of  East  Bessemer  Avenue  and  east  of  North  Elm  Street.  The 
villages,  once  outside  the  corporate  limits,  are  now  incorporated  with  the 
city.  The  Revolution  mills  and  village  lie  in  the  north  of  the  area,  Proximity 
mills  and  village  in  the  south,  and  White  Oak  mills  and  village  and  Prox- 
imity print  works  in  the  northeast.  The  combined  population  of  the  section 
is  15,000,  of  whom  5,500  are  employed  in  the  mills.  A  Negro  mill  village 
with  a  population  of  750  has  its  own  public  school  and  Y.M.C.A.  The  mills, 
established  in  1895,  are  Greensboro's  largest  industry  and  one  of  the  most 
important  textile-manufacturing  groups  in  the  South. 

n.  WORLD  WAR  STADIUM,  on  Bagley  St.  between  Dudley  St.  and 
Park  Ave.,  with  seating  capacity  of  10,000  including  sections  for  Negroes, 
was  designed  by  Harry  Barton,  associated  with  Leonard  White,  and  erected 
by  citizens  of  Guilford  County  in  honor  of  local  residents  who  lost  their 
lives  in  the  World  War. 

12.  DUNLEITH  (private),  480  Church  St.,  the  home  of  Judge  Robert  P. 
Dick,  built  in  1857,  stands  in  a  beautiful  grove  of  elms,  oaks,  cedars,  and 
Norway  pines.  The  white  frame  house  is  of  three  sections.  The  central 
towerlike  portion  contains  the  main  entrance,  a  Georgian  Colonial  doorway 
with  a  fanlight  and  side  lights.  The  portico,  rising  to  the  second  story,  is 
surmounted  by  an  iron  balustrade.  There  are  two-story  gabled  wings,  extend- 
ing north  and  south  from  the  central  section. 

General  Cox  occupied  the  residence  for  a  period  during  the  War  between 
the  States,  when  tents  of  Union  soldiers  dotted  the  spacious  grounds.  Robert 
P.  Dick  was  a  member  of  the  North  Carolina  Supreme  Court  (1868-72),  and 
later  served  as  Federal  district  judge.  For  many  years,  with  Judge  John  H. 
Dillard,  he  conducted  a  private  law  school. 

13.  COMMUNITY  CENTER  (W.  C.  Holleyman,  architect),  Summit  Ave. 
and  Church  St.,  reconstructed  in  1938  in  the  Romanesque  style  from  the 
old  Presbyterian  Church  and  Smith  Memorial  Building,  was  presented  to 
the  city  of  Greensboro  by  Mrs.  Lunsford  Richardson,  Sr.,  and  her  three 
daughters.  The  original  tower  and  exterior  of  the  church  are  preserved  and  a 
new  structure  unites  the  two  buildings  to  form  a  single  composition.  The 
center  houses  the  public  library,  art  center,  and  historical  museum,  besides 
providing  quarters  for  social  welfare  organizations. 

The  Presbyterian  congregation  was  organized  in   1824  with  four  slaves 


212  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

among  the  12  original  members.  The  building,  erected  in  1892,  third  on  the 
site,  was  vacated  in  1928  when  a  new  church  was  built  on  Fisher  Park  Circle. 
The  adjacent  cemetery  contains  many  old  graves  including  that  of  the  first 
pastor,  John  A.  Gretter  (d.  1853).  The  John  M.  Morehead  Monument 
marks  the  grave  of  a  prominent  citizen  who  became  Governor. 

The  Greensboro  Public  Library  {open  9-6  weekdays)  has  36,365  vol- 
umes, including  a  valuable  collection  of  books  on  North  Carolina  with  full 
sets  of  Colonial  and  State  records,  and  the  complete  O.  Henry  collection  of 
C.  Alphonso  Smith.  In  the  latter  is  an  original  manuscript. 

The  Greensboro  Historical  Museum  contains  relics  of  the  Revolutionary 
period  such  as  weapons,  household  furnishings,  and  coins. 

14.  The  AGRICULTURAL  AND  TECHNICAL  COLLEGE  OF 
NORTH  CAROLINA  (Negro,  coeducational),  a  standard  four-year  college, 
occupies  a  28-acre  campus  lying  between  Laurel,  Dudley,  Lindsay,  and  East 
Market  Streets.  The  institution  was  established  in  1891  by  an  act  of  the 
general  assembly  for  the  instruction  of  Negroes  in  agriculture  and  the  me- 
chanical arts.  The  course  was  later  expanded  to  include  the  liberal  arts.  The 
plant  includes  11  buildings  and  two  farms.  The  college  maintains  a  Little 
Symphony  Orchestra  which  tours  adjacent  States,  and  a  band.  The  enroll- 
ment for  1937-38  was  655. 

The  buildings,  two  and  three  stories  in  height,  are  of  brick  with  sandstone 
trim,  arched  doorways,  balconies,  and  balustrades.  Forming  sides  of  a  quad- 
rangle are  the  Dudley  Memorial  Building,  housing  the  college  library  of 
20,000  volumes;  Morrison  Hall,  and  Noble  Hall. 

15.  BENNETT  COLLEGE  (Negro  women),  on  E.  Washington  St.,  be- 
tween Macon  and  Bennett  Sts.,  occupies  a  landscaped  campus  of  40  acres 
with  14  buildings.  Established  as  Bennett  Seminary  in  1874  by  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church,  the  institution  became  Bennett  College  (coeducational) 
in  1889,  and  Bennett  College  for  Women  in  1926.  The  college  has  a  capital 
endowment  of  nearly  a  million  dollars,  an  enrollment  (1937-38)  of  305,  and 
is  a  member  of  the  Association  of  American  Colleges.  The  A.B.  and  B.S. 
degrees  are  conferred.  The  Bennett  College  Dramatic  Club  has  won  a  repu- 
tation for  the  excellence  of  its  presentations,  and  the  glee  club  frequently 
makes  public  appearances. 

Most  of  the  buildings  were  erected  since  1922  and  the  older  ones  were 
rebuilt  in  recent  years.  The  Carnegie  Public  Library  for  Negroes  {open 
9-9  Mon.-Fri.,  9-5  Sat.),  a  one-story  building  of  mottled  brick,  on  the 
campus,  serves  the  Negroes  of  the  city.  The  L.  Richardson  Memorial  Hos- 
pital comprises  a  training  school  that  enables  student  nurses  to  pursue  a 
college  course. 

16.  The  SETTLE  HOME  {private),  400  Asheboro  St.,  was  built  in  1873  by 
Judge  Thomas  Settle,  who  served  twice  as  Associate  Justice  of  the  North 
Carolina  Supreme  Court  and  was  Minister  to  Peru  when  he  was  nominated 
for  Governor  by  the  Republicans  in  1876  and  defeated  by  Zebulon  Vance. 


GREENSBORO  213 

The  structure  stands  well  back  from  the  street  in  a  yard  shaded  by  white 
and  red  oaks.  A  porch  extends  across  the  Asheboro  Street  front  with  a  small 
second-story  porch  rising  above  the  entrance.  A  Georgian  Colonial  door  has 
side  lights  and  a  fanlight.  Of  the  four  bay  windows,  three  rise  to  the  roof. 
The  building  serves  as  an  apartment  house. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  ENVIRONS 

Sedgefield,  9  m.  (see  tour  12);  Guilford  Courthouse  National  Military  Park,  5  m. 
(see  tour  13) ;  Gudford  College,  6  m.,  Lindley  Nurseries,  9  m.  (see  tour  25) ;  Alamance 
Church,  6  m.  (see  tour  2g). 


HIGH       POINT 


Railroad  Stations:  Southern  Ry.  passenger  station,  W.  High  and  S.  Main  Sts.,  for  Southern 

Ry.,  High  Point,  Randleman,  Asheboro  &  Southern  R.R. 
Bus  Station:  Union  Terminal,  224  N.  Wrenn  St.,  for  Atlantic  Greyhound,  Carolina  Coach, 

and  Greensboro-Fayetteville  lines. 
Airport:  Greensboro-High  Point,  US  311  to  State  68,  R.   9  m.  to  Friendship,  R.  on  US 

421,  0.6  m.,  for  Eastern  Air  Lines. 
Taxis:  25^  and  upward. 

City  Buses:  Fare  io<?,  4  tokens  25^,  meet  at  intersection  of  Washington  and  N.  Main  Sts. 
Traffic  Regulations:  Street  turns  and  parking  restrictions  indicated  by  signs. 

Accommodations:  3  hotels;  boarding  houses,  and  tourist  camps. 

Information  Service:  Chamber  of  Commerce  (Giant  Bureau),  415  N.  Main  St.;  Carolina 
Motor  Club,  213  N.  Main  St. 

Radio  Station:  WMFR  (1200  kc). 

Theaters  and  Motion  Picture  Houses:  Paramount  Theater  in  city  hall  auditorium,  occa- 
sional productions,  concerts,  lectures;  Amphitheater,  City  Lake  Park,  5  m.  E.  on  US 
29-70,  open  air  spectacles  and  meetings;  4  motion  picture  houses. 

Swimming:  City  Lake  Park,  1.5  m.  E.  on  US  29-70;  Negro  Park,  Gordon  St. 

Golf:  Emerywood  Country  Club,  Country  Club  Dr.  and  Hillcrcst  Dr.,  9  holes,  greens 
fee,  50^;  Blair  Park  links  (municipal),  S.  Main  St.  (US  311)  at  city  limits,  9  holes, 
greens  fee,  60^;  Sedgefield  Country  Club,  8  m.  E.  on  US  29-70,  18  holes,  greens  fee, 
$1.50  weekdays,  $2  Sundays. 

Tennis:  Blair  Park,  S.  Main  St.  at  city  limits;  City  Lake  Park,  Jamestown;  Negro  Park, 
Gordon  St. 

Hunting  and  Fishing:  Quail,  dove,  and  squirrel  hunting  in  season,  inquire  Chamber  of 
Commerce;  fishing  at  City  Lake  Park. 

Riding:  Sedgefield  Riding  Academy,  8  m.  E.  on  US  29-70. 

Shooting:  Skeet  Club,  5  m.  W.  on  US  311. 

Baseball:  Willie  Park,  English  and  Oakdale  Sts.;  Thomasville  Chair  Company  Park, 
4  m.  W.  on  US  29-70. 

Annual  Events:  Southern  Furniture  Exposition  (open  to  trade  only)  Jan.  and  July;  Caro- 
lina A.A.U.  basketball  championship  meet,  Feb.;  Carolina  A.A.U.  wrestling  cham- 
pionship meet,  Mar.;  South  Atlantic  Intcrscholastic  golf  championship,  Apr.;  Western 
North  Carolina  track  meet,  Apr.;  Carolina  A.A.U.  swimming  championship,  July  15-16. 

HIGH  POINT  (980  alt.,  36,745  pop.),  an  industrial  center  on  a  level  plateau 
in  the  Piedmont,  is  known  chiefly  for  its  large-scale  production  of  furniture. 
The  city,  rectangular  in  shape,  is  divided  north  and  south  by  the  railroad 
tracks,  and  east  and  west  by  the  100-foot-wide  Main  Street,  with  the  railroad 
station  in  the  center. 

On  Main  Street,  from  the  railroad  crossing,  the  retail  business  section 
extends  for  several  blocks  on  both  sides  of  the  tracks.  The  residential  dis- 
trict lies  almost  wholly  on  the  north  side  of  town,  although  many  beautiful 
homes  still  stand  along  South  Main,  Hamilton,  and  Willowbrook  Streets. 
On  the  northwest  in  Emerywood,  a  recent  development  with  landscaped 

214 


HIGH      POINT  215 

grounds,  are  many  of  the  finer  homes.  The  streets  of  the  city  are  shaded 
by  great  oaks  and  elms  extending  to  the  outer  edges  of  the  business  section. 
Scattered  about  the  city  are  15  parks  with  a  total  of  132  acres. 

Covering  about  4  square  miles  on  the  south  are  scores  of  furniture  fac- 
tories, hosiery  and  silk  mills,  and  other  manufacturing  plants.  Two  of  the 
cotton  mills  have  their  own  villages  containing  hundreds  of  small  modern 
cottages  for  the  factory  workers,  churches,  community  buildings,  and  play- 
grounds. 

Uptown  streets  show  constant  activity,  for  this  industrial  community  is 
visited  by  salesmen,  buyers,  and  factory  representatives.  Several  large  con- 
ventions are  held  here  every  year.  On  Saturday  afternoons  the  streets  take 
on  a  carnival  appearance  and  sidewalks  are  jammed  with  pedestrian  traffic. 

The  city's  7,229  Negroes,  20  percent  of  the  total  population,  live  in  scat- 
tered sections  on  East  Washington  Street,  Kivett  Drive,  Welch  Street,  Fair- 
view  Street,  and  on  Burns  Hill,  where  many  own  their  own  homes.  They 
have  a  well-equipped  park  on  Gordon  Street  in  the  eastern  part  of  town. 

Guilford  County,  in  which  High  Point  lies,  was  originally  settled  by  the 
Quakers  about  1750,  but  the  town  was  not  laid  out  until  1853  when  the 
State-built  North  Carolina  &  Midland  Railroad  was  brought  through.  In 
that  year  Solomon  Kendall  sold  part  of  his  farm  for  $5,000  for  a  town  site 
which  was  laid  out  exactly  square,  2  miles  long  and  2  miles  wide.  So  intent 
were  the  surveyors  on  making  the  town  of  precise  dimensions  that  they  ran 
the  eastern  boundary  "through  the  doors  of  Jane  Parson's  house." 

Named  because  it  was  the  highest  point  on  the  railroad  line  between 
Goldsboro  and  Charlotte,  the  new  village  became  an  important  trading  center 
with  completion  in  1854  of  the  plank  road  between  Salem  and  Fayetteville. 
This  road,  130  miles  long,  followed  part  of  the  old  Indian  trail  and  pioneer 
wagon  road  from  the  mountains  to  the  Cape  Fear  River  and  was  the  most 
important  highway  in  the  State.  Mileposts  were  placed  along  the  west  side 
of  the  road,  with  the  mile  numbers  carved  instead  of  painted,  so  night  trav- 
elers could  feel  the  figures.  One  of  the  old  mileposts  is  in  the  Quaker  Museum 
at  Springfield  Meetinghouse  (see  tour  14). 

High  Point  was  incorporated  in  1859  and  soon  became  the  trading  center 
of  surrounding  farm  communities.  In  the  late  1880's  it  had  two  tobacco  fac- 
tories and  three  warehouses,  but  this  industry  was  overshadowed  by  its  rapid 
expansion  in  neighboring  cities.  In  1888  furniture  manufacturers  were  at- 
tracted by  the  abundance  of  hardwood  timber  available,  and  the  quiet  coun- 
try town  quickly  changed  into  a  modern  industrial  center.  Since  then  the 
population  has  increased  ninefold.  The  city  limits  were  extended  in  1923. 

The  town's  160  manufacturing  plants,  which  employ  12,000  people,  in- 
clude 30  furniture  factories  with  an  annual  output  valued  above  $21,000,000, 
and  22  hosiery  mills  which  produce  150  million  pairs  of  hose  per  year. 
Other  industries  produce  rayon  cloth,  art  glass,  paints,  paper  boxes,  and 
electrical  machinery.  There  is  a  local  saying  that  "Only  a  wise  man  knows  his 
own  factory  whistle  in  High  Point." 

High  Point's  Negroes  were  at  first  employed  in  the  tobacco  plants.  In  later 
years  large  numbers  were  attracted  from  Georgia  and  South  Carolina  by  an 
expanding  program  of  local  public  works.  Many  are  now  engaged  in  busi- 


2l6  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

ness  and  the  professions.  In  1891  the  Society  of  Friends  founded  a  school 
to  provide  education  for  Negroes. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  The  GIANT  BUREAU  (open  8-12,  7-5  weekdays),  415  N.  Main  St., 
symbolizing  the  city's  position  as  a  furniture-manufacturing  center,  houses 
the  office  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce.  It  was  built  in  1925  of  wood  painted 
white,  is  32  feet  high,  27  feet  long,  and  14  feet  wide.  A  square  screen  on 
the  top  represents  a  mirror.  The  front  of  the  building  is  designed  to  simulate 
a  bureau  with  drawers  and  knobs. 

2.  The  WORLD  WAR  MEMORIAL,  W.  Broad  and  College  Sts.,  a  gift  to 
the  city  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  M.  J.  Wrenn,  was  sculptured  in  Italy  by  Maurecinni 
from  stone  quarried  at  Flatresanti,  and  erected  in  1923.  The  statue  is  of  a 
soldier,  facing  west.  On  the  base  are  names  of  High  Point  men  who  served 
in  the  World  War. 

3.  TOMLINSON  OF  HIGH  POINT  PLANT  (open  by  special  permis- 
sion), 305  W.  High  St.,  is  one  of  the  largest  furniture  factories  in  the  South, 
producing  more  than  200  patterns  with  an  annual  value  of  about  $3,000,000. 
Besides  the  office  and  mill  on  West  High  Street,  there  are  three  mills  on 
South  Hamilton  Street.  The  buildings,  of  red  brick,  ranging  from  three  to 
five  stories  in  height,  contain  approximately  650,000  square  feet  of  floor 
space.  The  company,  founded  by  S.  H.  Tomlinson,  was  organized  in  1900 
and  began  operation  the  following  year  in  a  small  sheet-iron  building.  The 
first  few  years  of  operation  were  devoted  to  production  and  jobbing  of  chairs. 
The  factory  expanded  in  19 12  and  again  in  19 16.  Although  the  routine  opera- 
tions are  by  machinery,  each  piece  is  finished  by  hand.  The  Williamsburg 
Gallery  (open  by  permission),  in  the  W.  High  St.  office  building,  contains 
reproductions  of  old  furniture  at  Williamsburg,  Va.,  representing  the  work 
of  early  American  craftsmen. 

4.  The  OLD  FIELD  HOME  (private),  217  W.  High  St.,  erected  in  1852, 
is  the  second  residence  built  in  High  Point.  This  two-story  brick  structure 
has  a  front  portico  level  with  the  ground,  with  four  Doric  columns.  An  ell 
contains  the  dining  room  and  kitchen. 

5.  The  HIGH  POINT  PUBLIC  LIBRARY  (open  9-9  weekdays),  corner  S. 
Main  and  E.  Commerce  Sts.,  occupies  the  main  floor  of  the  old  Federal 
Building,  a  two-story  stone  structure  with  flat  roof,  surrounded  by  a  stone 
balustrade.  The  raised  portico  has  six  columns.  The  library  contains  16,000 
volumes  and  the  Dalton  collection  of  bird  eggs. 

6.  The  SOUTHERN  FURNITURE  EXPOSITION  BUILDING  (open  to 
trade  only),  209  S.  Main  St.,  was  built  in  1921.  The  10-story,  red  brick 
structure,  trimmed  in  granite,  limestone,  and  marble,  occupies  the  entire 
width  of  the  block  between  Main  and  Wrenn  Streets  and  has  208,000  square 


HIGH     POINT  217 

feet  of  floor  space.  Twice  a  year,  in  January  and  July,  a  furniture  exposition 
conducted  in  the  building  is  attended  by  approximately  200  exhibitors  and 
2,500  buyers. 

7.  OAKWOOD  CEMETERY,  at  the  N.  end  of  Steele  St.,  contains  the 
graves  of  many  Confederate  soldiers.  Here  is  the  Grave  of  Laura  Wesson, 
called  the  Florence  Nightingale  of  the  War  between  the  States.  As  a  girl  in 
her  teens  she  enrolled  as  a  nurse  in  the  Wayside  Hospital,  where  5,000  Con- 
federate soldiers  were  treated.  When  a  smallpox  epidemic  broke  out,  Laura 
Wesson  served  the  segregated  patients  until  she  contracted  the  disease  and 
died  (Apr.  25,  1865). 

8.  The  JOHNSON  FARMHOUSE  (private),  102  Louise  Ave.,  bears  the 
date  of  its  construction  (1842)  on  an  original  chimney.  Although  additions 
have  been  built,  much  of  the  old  house,  with  its  low  beamed  ceilings,  re- 
mains. The  two-story,  white  frame  residence  has  a  portico  with  10  Doric 
columns  arranged  in  clusters  of  two  and  three.  Old  elms,  magnolias,  and 
large  boxwoods  grace  the  lawn. 

Across  the  street,  on  a  site  occupied  by  an  apartment  house,  was  Johnson's 
Camping  Ground.  Its  position  on  the  plank  road  between  Fayetteville  and 
Salem  made  it  popular  with  travelers  in  the  early  19th  century.  Around  a 
blazing  campfire  news  of  the  day  was  exchanged,  ballads  and  hymns  were 
sung,  and  horses  and  other  chattels  were  swapped.  Construction  of  railroads 
put  an  end  to  the  camping  grounds. 

9.  On  the  SITE  OF  WELCH'S  INN,  1425  E.  Lexington  Ave.,  a  section  of 
the  original  building  remains.  Probably  used  as  a  dining  room,  it  is  now  a 
residence  (private).  The  oblong  building  of  hand-made  brick,  erected  in 
1786,  has  a  single  story  with  gabled  roof.  Welch's  Inn  was  a  tavern  on  the 
stagecoach  road  from  Raleigh  to  Salisbury  during  the  early  1800's,  noted  for 
its  comfortable  beds  and  palatable  food.  A  sign  proclaimed  "J.  Welch,  Enter- 
tainment." The  highway  runs  through  the  site  of  the  main  portion  of  the 
building,  leaving  the  remaining  ell  upon  a  bank  close  to  the  road. 

10.  HIGH  POINT  COLLEGE,  Montlieu  Ave.  between  E.  and  W.  College 
Drive,  was  established  as  a  coeducational  institution  by  the  Methodist  Prot- 


Key  to  High  Point  Map 

1.  The  Giant  Bureau.  2.  The  World  War  Memorial.  3.  Tomlinson  of  High  Point 
Plant.  4.  The  Old  Field  Home.  5.  The  High  Point  Public  Library.  6.  The  Southern 
Furniture  Exposition  Building.  7.  Oakwood  Cemetery.  8.  The  Johnson  Farmhouse. 
9.  The  Site  of  Welch's  Inn.  10.  High  Point  College.  11.  William  Penn  High  School. 
12.  Blair  Park.     13.  Log  House  of  the  Blair  Family. 

a.  Post  Office,  b.  Chamber  of  Commerce — Giant  Bureau,  c.  Carolina  Motor  Club. 
d.  Southern  R.R. — High  Point,  Randleman,  Asheboro  &  Southern  R.R.  Station,  e.  High 
Point,  Thomasville  &  Denton  R.R.  Station,  f.  Union  Bus  Terminal,  g.  Airport. 
h.  Baseball  Park.  1.  Emorywood  Country  Club.  k.  Sedgefield  Country  Club.  l.  Blair 
Park  Links  (municipal),     m.  Parks. 


HIGH  POINT 

1939 


220  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

estant  Church  in  1920,  aided  by  a  donation  to  the  building  fund  and  a  gift 
of  52  acres  by  the  city  of  High  Point.  The  college  has  a  Grade  A  rating  and 
in  the  1938-39  school  year  had  458  students.  The  long,  red  brick  buildings 
occupy  a  landscaped  campus  with  winding  walks  and  drives.  Roberts  Hall, 
erected  in  1922,  faces  Montlieu  Avenue,  near  the  center  of  the  campus.  The 
building  is  three  stories  in  height  and  houses  the  administrative  offices,  class- 
rooms, assembly  rooms,  laboratories,  dining  room,  and  kitchen.  Woman's 
Hall  (R),  and  McCulloch's  Hall  (men's)  (L),  were  completed  when  the 
college  opened  in  1924.  The  M.  J.  Wrenn  Memorial  Library  {open  during 
school  hours),  erected  in  1936-37  by  Mrs.  M.  J.  Wrenn  in  honor  of  her  hus- 
band, is  on  the  east  front  of  the  campus  near  the  highway.  The  Harrison 
Gymnasium,  just  north  of  McCulloch's  Hall,  is  well-equipped.  The  Stadium, 
on  the  field  near  Lexington  Avenue  and  East  and  West  College  Drives,  has 
a  grandstand  with  a  seating  capacity  of  3,000. 

11.  WILLIAM  PENN  HIGH  SCHOOL  (Negro),  Washington  St.  exten- 
sion 0.5  m.  from  center  of  city,  was  established  in  1923  when  the  buildings 
originally  belonging  to  the  High  Point  Normal  and  Industrial  Institute 
were  taken  over  by  the  city.  The  first  building  was  erected  in  1892  by  the 
Society  of  Friends  of  New  York  to  provide  education  for  Negroes  of  the 
town.  James  A.  Griffin,  the  first  Negro  principal,  served  from  1897  to  1923. 
In  1900  the  men  students  made  and  burned  200,000  bricks  and  built  Congdon 
Hall  for  the  girls. 

Before  the  War  between  the  States  the  site  was  used  as  a  slave  market 
and  during  the  war,  for  Camp  Fisher,  mobilization  camp  for  Confederate 
soldiers,  named  for  Col.  Charles  E.  Fisher,  who  was  killed  in  the  first  Battle 
of  Manassas.  Four  regiments  were  trained  here. 

12.  BLAIR  PARK,  S.  Main  St.  at  city  limits,  86  acres  in  area,  includes  the 
municipal  golf  course,  clubhouse,  tennis  courts,  and  children's  playgrounds. 
The  land  was  a  gift  to  the  city  of  High  Point  by  the  Blair  family. 

13.  The  original  LOG  HOUSE  of  the  Blair  family,  S.  Main  St.  at  city 
limits,  stands  across  the  highway  from  Blair  Park,  adjacent  to  the  present 
Blair  home.  Erected  in  1798,  the  house  remains  as  first  built  except  for  a 
brick  chimney  and  new  floors. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  ENVIRONS 

Old  Gold  Mines,  5  m.,  Quaker  Meetinghouse  and  Museum  (Jamestown)  5  m.,  Brum- 
mell's  Inn  (1814)  9  m.  {see  tour  12);  Springfield  Meetinghouse,  museum,  and  ceme- 
tery, 4  m.,  Deep  River  Meetinghouse,  5  m.,  Grave  of  Martha  Bell  (Revolutionary 
heroine),  10  m.  {see  tour  14). 


NEW       BERN 


Railroad  Station:  Union  Station,  Hancock  and  Queen  Sts.  for  Atlantic  Coast  Line  R.R.. 

Norfolk  Southern  R.R.,  and  Atlantic  &  North  Carolina  R.R. 
Bus  Station:  140  Broad  St.  for  Seashore  Transportation  and  Norfolk  Southern. 
Airport:  Trent  Marsh,  New,  S.  Front,  and  End  Sts.  at  city  limits;  no  scheduled  service. 
Taxis:  25^  anywhere  in  city. 

Accommodations:    4    hotels    (1    for   Negroes);    tourist    homes,    boarding   houses;    tourist 
camps  near  city. 

Information  Service:  Chamber  of  Commerce,  Old  City  Hall,  Craven  St. 

Motion  Picture  Houses:  3   (1   for  Negroes). 

Golf:  New  Bern  Country  Club,  4  m.  W.  on  Pembroke  Rd.,  9  holes,  greens  fee,  $1. 

Hunting  and  Fishing:  Inquire  Chamber  of  Commerce  or  U.  S.  Forest  Service,  Post  Office 

Bldg. 
Swimming:  River  beaches  at  Bridgeton,  2  m.  E.  on  US   17;  Minnesott  Beach,  25  m.  E. 

and  S.  on  State  306,  302. 

Annual  Events:  Boat  Races  on  Neuse  River,  Labor  Day. 

NEW  BERN  (18  alt.,  11,981  pop.),  one  of  North  Carolina's  oldest  towns, 
retains  the  flavor  of  past  centuries.  The  community,  which  possesses  a  domes- 
tic architecture  of  charm  and  distinction,  is  spread  across  a  bluff  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Neuse  and  Trent  Rivers,  35  miles  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 
Massive  brick  town  houses,  stately  Georgian  residences,  and  wistaria-cur- 
tained clapboard  cottages  line  narrow  streets  shadowed  by  oaks,  poplars, 
elms,  and  pecan  trees.  Many  of  the  old  streets  retain  their  original  brick 
pavements.  Residential  East  Front  Street  has  aged  homes,  three  lines  of 
arching  trees,  and  a  wide  promenade  along  the  Neuse  River  sea  wall.  The 
outlying  Negro  sections  are  similar  to  those  in  other  southern  towns. 

The  first  settlers  were  survivors  of  an  expedition  of  650  German  Palatines, 
Protestants  expelled  from  Baden  and  Bavaria.  Under  the  leadership  of  the 
Swiss  Baron  Christopher  de  Graffenried,  and  aided  by  a  gift  of  ^4,000 
from  Queen  Anne  of  England,  this  group  planned  a  colony  in  America. 
De  Graffenried  placed  Christopher  Gale  and  John  Lawson  in  charge  of  the 
expedition.  In  January  1710,  two  ships  sailed  from  Gravesend,  England. 
Storms  impeded  the  vessels  and  disease  ravaged  the  voyagers,  more  than  half 
of  whom  succumbed.  A  French  vessel  captured  one  of  the  transports  as  it 
entered  Chesapeake  Bay  in  April,  and  plundered  the  colonists.  Fever  fur- 
ther reduced  the  number  and  only  a  sickly  remnant  reached  the  Chowan 
River,  where  Thomas  Pollock,  a  wealthy  planter,  provided  them  with  trans- 
portation to  the  Neuse  and  Trent  Rivers. 

In  September  1710,  de  Graffenried  himself  arrived  with  a  colony  of  Swiss. 
He  purchased  10,000  acres,  paying  the  Lords  Proprietors  at  the  rate  of  5  cents 
an  acre.  He  recompensed  King  Taylor,  Tuscarora  Indian  chief,  and  John 


222  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

Lawson,  who  also  claimed  an  interest  because  of  his  position  as  surveyor 
general  of  the  Colony. 

The  town  was  laid  out,  probably  by  Lawson,  with  the  principal  streets 
in  the  form  of  a  crucifix,  one  running  northwest  from  the  rivers'  junction 
and  one  from  river  to  river.  This  served  the  dual  purpose  of  religious  ex- 
pression and  defense  against  the  Indians,  since  ramparts  were  erected  along 
the  transverse  road.  De  Graffenried  named  the  town  for  his  country's  capi- 
tal, Bern. 

In  September  171 1  the  settlement  was  almost  wiped  out  by  a  Tuscarora 
uprising.  In  the  first  attack  80  settlers  were  slain.  Lawson  and  de  Graffenried 
were  taken  to  the  Indian  fort,  Nohoroco,  where  Lawson  was  tortured  to 
death  and  de  Graffenried  was  held  prisoner  for  six  months.  The  war  raged 
intermittently  for  two  years  and  the  colonists  were  reduced  to  such  despera- 
tion that  in  1713  many  of  them  returned  with  de  Graffenried  to  Switzerland. 

The  settlement  made  a  new  start  under  the  leadership  of  Col.  Thomas 
Pollock,  proprietary  Governor  (1712-14,  1722),  who  had  acquired  de  Graffen- 
ried's  interests.  In  1723  it  was  incorporated  as  a  town,  and  made  the  seat  of 
Craven  County,  named  for  William,  Earl  of  Craven,  one  of  the  Lords 
Proprietors. 

Sessions  of  the  Colonial  assembly  met  here  from  1745  to  1761  with  the 
exception  of  1752.  From  1770  to  1774  it  was  the  seat  of  the  royal  Governors. 
On  Aug.  25,  1774,  Col.  John  Harvey,  former  speaker  of  the  assembly,  called 
a  convention,  which  met  in  New  Bern,  formed  a  provincial  congress,  and 
elected  Harvey  moderator.  This  First  Provincial  Congress  decided  that  after 
Sept.  1,  1774,  all  use  of  East  India  tea  should  be  prohibited;  after  Nov.  1, 
1774,  importation  of  African  slaves  should  cease,  and  after  Jan.  1,  1775,  no 
East  India  or  British  goods  should  be  imported. 

The  Provincial  Congress  appointed  Richard  Caswell,  Joseph  Hewes,  and 
William  Hooper  delegates  to  the  Continental  Congress  at  Philadelphia,  on 
Sept.  5,  1774.  The  following  April,  the  royal  Governor,  Josiah  Martin,  or- 
dered dissolution  of  the  assembly,  then  fled  aboard  a  British  man-of-war, 
thereby  ending  royal  rule  in  North  Carolina. 

After  the  Revolution  shipbuilding  became  an  important  activity,  and  tim- 
ber, iron,  and  rope  were  produced  locally.  Race  tracks,  fox  hunts, 
and  balls  were  popular.  New  Bern  became  noted  for  its  gay  social  life. 
Trade  was  carried  on  chiefly  with  the  New  England  ports  of  Salem  and 
Boston;  exports  consisted  mostly  of  leaf  tobacco,  molasses,  lumber,  and 
naval  stores.  The  Bank  of  New  Bern  was  chartered  by  the  general  assembly 
in  1804. 

This  commerce  is  perhaps  the  most  logical  explanation  of  the  late  18th- 
century  New  England  character  of  many  New  Bern  houses,  preservation  of 
which  is  due  to  a  series  of  favorable  circumstances.  The  town  was  spared 
the  ravages  of  the  War  between  the  States  because  of  continued  Federal 
occupation  after  Gen.  Ambrose  E.  Burnside's  defeat  of  Confederate  Gen.  L. 
O'Bryan  Branch  on  Mar.  14,  1862.  The  Confederates  tried  to  retake  the 
town  Mar.  14,  1863,  and  Feb.  1  and  5,  1864,  but  were  unsuccessful.  New 
Bern  also  escaped  the  effects  of  rapid  progress.  With  the  advent  of  the  rail- 
road in  1858,  its  importance  as  a  port  and  distributing  point  declined  and 


NEW     BERN  223 

gradually  it  subsided  into  a  placid  river  town.  A  40-block,  3-day  fire  in  1922 
was  confined,  by  a  shift  of  the  wind,  to  the  Negro  section. 

New  Bern  has  a  few  industries  connected  with  agriculture  and  fishing,  a 
shipyard,  tobacco  warehouses,  lumber  and  wood-working  mills.  Nearby 
waters  afford  good  fishing  and  hunters  take  duck,  goose,  quail,  turkey,  deer, 
and  squirrel  from  the  surrounding  area.  New  Bern  is  connected  with  the 
Intracoastal  Waterway  by  the  Neuse  River.  The  municipality  owns  its 
water  and  electric  systems. 

Prominent  early  citizens  were  Richard  Dobbs  Spaight,  and  his  son  of 
the  same  name,  and  Abner  Nash,  Governors;  Martin  Howard,  Provincial 
Chief  Justice  (1767-73),  who  presided  at  all  the  Regulator  trials;  and  Eliza- 
beth Shine,  mother  of  Admiral  David  G.  Farragut.  Later  figures  were 
William  Gaston,  jurist  and  orator;  Gabriel  and'George  W.  Rains,  prominent 
Confederate  Army  officers,  and  Furnifold  M.  Simmons,  U.  S.  Senator 
(190 1 -31),  and  outstanding  political  leader.  The  most  prominent  Negro  citi- 
zen was  John  Cook,  brought  to  the  city  as  a  slave  in  1805.  Obtaining  his 
freedom,  he  devoted  his  life  to  charitable  works.  When  he  died  in  1856  he 
was  buried  in  the  white  cemetery  and  a  monument  was  raised  to  his 
memory  by  popular  subscription.  In  1916  his  body  was  removed  to  Green- 
wood Cemtery. 

Negroes,  who  represent  52  percent  of  the  city's  total  population,  work  in 
the  mills,  on  the  farms,  and  in  domestic  service,  though  a  few  are  engaged 
in  business  and  professional  activities.  The  first  public  schools  for  Negroes 
in  North  Carolina  were  established  at  New  Bern  in  1862,  when  soldiers  of 
a  New  England  regiment  volunteered  as  teachers. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

The  city  has  identified  its  points  of  interest  with  numbers  and  signs  of  the  Bear  of  Bern. 
In  the  following  section  these  numbers  are  indicated  in  parentheses. 

i  (1).  UNION  POINT,  junction  of  the  Neuse  and  Trent  Rivers,  at  the 
SE.  corner  of  E.  Front  and  S.  Front  Sts.,  was  occupied  by  the  Indian  village 
Chattawka  before  de  Graffenried  erected  a  government  house  and  fort  here 
in  1710.  Successively  occupied  by  oyster  plants,  wharves,  turpentine  stills, 
and  a  trash  dump,  it  was  converted  in  1932  into  a  public  park  surrounding 
the  modern  Woman's  Clubhouse. 

2  (2).  The  SIMPSON-DUFFY  (OAKSMITH)  HOUSE  {private),  SE. 
corner  E.  Front  and  Pollock  Sts.,  a  large  three-story  brick  house  with  dormer 
windows  in  the  hip  roof  and  a  captain's  walk,  was  built  about  18 10  by 
Samuel  Simpson.  In  the  late  1860's  it  was  acquired  by  Capt.  Appleton  Oak- 
smith,  who  remodeled  it,  and  placed  over  the  Pollock  Street  entrance  a 
stone  panel,  carved  with  the  head  of  a  woman  between  two  lions'  heads. 
Legend  ascribes  the  panel  to  de  Graffenried,  and  the  woman's  head  as  a 
representation  of  Queen  Anne,  since  de  Graffenried  is  supposed  to  have 
been  in  love  with  the  queen.  The  Site  of  the  Treaty  Tree,  near  the  house, 
is  the  spot,  tradition  relates,  where  de  Graffenried  signed  a  peace  pact  with 
the  Indians. 


NEW    BERN  225 

3  (3).  The  HASLEN  HOUSE  KITCHEN  {private),  46  E.  Front  St.,  is 
locally  credited  with  being  the  oldest  standing  building  in  Craven  County, 
though  the  date  of  its  construction  is  not  known.  The  kitchen  has  been 
converted  into  a  Dutch-type  house  of  two  stories  with  a  gambrel  roof.  John 
Bird  Sumner,  Archbishop  of  Canterbury  (1842-62),  was  a  visitor  in  the 
house  during  his  boyhood.  His  mother  was  a  sister  of  Dr.  Thomas 
Haslen. 

4  (4).  The  SITE  OF  THE  FIRST  PRINTING  OFFICE  IN  NORTH 
CAROLINA,  SW.  corner  E.  Front  and  Broad  Sts.,  is  indicated  by  a  marker. 
James  Davis  set  up  his  press  here  in  1749  and  two  years  later  began  publi- 
cation of  the  North  Carolina  Gazette,  first  newspaper  in  North  Carolina.  In 
1 75 1  he  published  Swann's  revisal  of  North  Carolina  laws,  familiarly  known 
as  the  "Yellow  Jacket"  because  of  the  yellow  cover  on  the  second  edition 
(1752).  This  was  the  first  book  published  in  the  State. 

5  (8).  The  EMORY-BISHOP  HOUSE  {private),  NW.  corner  E.  Front 
and  New  Sts.,  was  originally  the  home  of  wealthy  Sir  George  Pollock,  who 
in  1819  here  entertained  President  Monroe  and  Vice  President  Calhoun. 
Later  it  became  the  home  of  Matthias  Manly,  Justice  of  the  North  Carolina 
Supreme  Court  (1860-65).  The  two-story  frame  house  has  been  remodeled 
and  enlarged.  Dormer  windows  and  broad  porches  have  been  added  and 
the  small-paned  windows  replaced  with  single-paned  ones.  The  interior  hand- 
carved  mahogany  staircase,  cornices,  and  wainscot  are  retained. 

6  (10).  The  SITE  OF  THE  HOME  OF  COL.  JOSEPH  LEECH,  SW. 
corner  E.  Front  and  Change  Sts.,  is  identified  by  a  marker.  Colonel  Leech 
( 1 720-1 803)  was  a  member  of  the  First  Provincial  Congress,  the  assembly, 
the  council  of  safety,  and  the  State  constitutional  convention,  as  well  as  State 
treasurer,  custodian  of  Tryon  Palace,  and  mayor  of  New  Bern  at  the  time 
of  President  Washington's  visit  in  1791. 


Key  to  New  Bern  Map 

1.  Union  Point.  2.  The  Simpson-Duffy  (Oaksmith)  House.  3.  The  Haslen  House 
Kitchen.  4.  The  Site  of  the  First  Printing  Office  in  North  Carolina.  5.  The  Emory- 
Bishop  House.  6.  The  Site  of  the  Home  of  Col.  Joseph  Leech.  7.  The  Louisiana  House. 
8.  The  Smallwood-Ward  House.  9.  The  Jarvis-Hand  House.  10.  The  Slover-Guion 
House.  11.  The  Richardson  House.  12.  The  Jerkins-Duffy  House.  13.  The  Gaston 
House.  14.  The  Courthouse  Lawn.  15.  City  Hall.  16.  The  First  Baptist  Church. 
17.  Christ  Episcopal  Church.  18.  The  Site  of  the  Old  Courthouse.  19.  The  Federal  Build- 
ing. 20.  The  Centenary  Methodist  Church.  21.  St.  Paul's  Roman  Catholic  Church  22.  The 
John  Wright  Stanly  House.  23.  The  First  Presbyterian  Church.  24.  New  Bern  Academy. 
25.  The  Masonic  Temple.  26.  The  Site  of  the  Rains  House.  27.  Cedar  Grove  Ceme- 
tery. 28.  Kafer  Park.  29.  The  National  Cemetery.  30.  The  Site  of  James  Gill's  Shop. 
31.  The  Jones-Lipman  House.  32.  The  Bryan-Ashford  House.  33.  The  West  Wing  of 
Tryon  Palace.     34.  The  Remains  of  Fort  Totten. 

a.  Post  Office,  b.  Chamber  of  Commerce,  c.  Union  Railway  Station,  d.  Union  Bus 
Station. 


226  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

7  (12).  The  LOUISIANA  HOUSE  {private),  NW.  corner  E.  Front  and 
Change  Sts.,  a  two-and-a-half-story  frame  clapboarded  structure,  according 
to  tradition  was  built  in  1776.  The  galleried  portico  is  supported  by  two  tiers 
of  square  wooden  columns  and  protected  at  the  second  story  by  a  simple 
wooden  railing.  There  are  two  brick  end  chimneys  on  the  right  side  and  a 
low  service  ell  in  the  rear.  There  was  originally  a  portico  of  similar  design 
in  the  rear.  William  Attmore  wrote  in  1787  that  "this  Method  of  Building 
is  found  convenient  on  account  of  the  great  Summer  Heats  here."  The  gable- 
roofed  house  was  named  for  its  resemblance  to  old  types  in  Louisiana. 
Mary  Bayard  Devereux  Clark,  poet,  lived  in  the  house  until  her  death  in 


8  (13).  The  SMALLWOOD-WARD  HOUSE  {private),  95  E.  Front  St., 
built  between  1812  and  18 16  for  Eli  Smallwood,  is  a  three-story,  nearly  square 
structure  with  the  entrance  at  one  side  of  the  facade.  The  weathered  red 
brick  exterior  walls  are  laid  in  Flemish  bond.  The  house  has  beautiful  wood 
carving  in  the  slender,  pedimented  porticoes,  interior  cornices,  and  mantels. 
The  deeply  recessed  and  paneled  front  doorway  with  its  delicately  leaded 
glass  transom  is  protected  by  a  classic  pediment  with  an  arched  soffit.  The 
pediment  is  supported  by  slender  coupled  columns;  the  floor  of  the  porch 
is  raised  on  a  low  platform,  approached  by  a  short  flight  of  steps.  The  side 
porch,  similar  in  detail,  is  of  somewhat  broader  proportions  and  has  a  simple 
triangular  pediment.  The  white-shuttered  windows  are  topped  with  wide 
stone  lintels  and  have  narrow  stone  sills.  A  single  chimney  at  the  left  gable 
end  and  trim  pedimented  dormers  break  the  lines  of  the  steeply  pitched 
metal  roof,  which  was  originally  covered  with  shingles.  The  interior  is  noted 
for  its  broad  stair  hall,  whose  winding  stair  is  cut  off  from  the  entrance  hall 
by  a  graceful  elliptical  arch.  On  the  first  floor  are  the  counting  room,  now 
used  as  a  drawing  room,  and  the  dining  room.  On  the  second  floor  are  two 
bedrooms  and  the  original  drawing  room  converted  into  a  bedroom.  The 
chair  rails  and  pedimented  overmantels  in  the  dining  and  drawing  rooms 
display  exceptional  craftsmanship.  The  nautical  rope  molding  in  the  cor- 
nices and  door  trim  gives  credence  to  the  theory  that  James  Coor,  an  English 
naval  architect,  is  responsible  for  much  of  this  work.  Under  the  Cypress 
Tree  (11),  at  the  rear  of  the  house  and  near  the  Neuse  River,  Indian  treaties 
and  Revolutionary  parleys  were  held.  One  of  the  first  ships  built  in  North 
Carolina  was  launched  within  the  tree's  shadow.  Here  Richard  Dobbs 
Spaight  conferred  with  Gen.  Nathanael  Greene  and  pledged  his  assistance  to 
the  cause  of  the  Revolution.  President  Washington,  Edward  Everett,  and 
other  notables  have  viewed  the  river  from  this  spot. 

9  (14).  The  JAR  VIS-HAND  HOUSE  {private),  SE.  corner  E.  Front  and 
Johnson  Sts.,  built  in  1803,  is  late  Georgian  Colonial  in  design,  of  soft-textured 
red  brick,  with  carved  wooden  cornice  and  portico.  The  detail  of  its  sheltered 
and  recessed  doorway  is  particularly  fine.  Iron  bars  protect  basement  win- 
dows, and  the  doors,  46  inches  wide,  have  7-inch  keys  for  the  double-bolt 
locks.  The  interior  hand-carved  woodwork  is  especially  noteworthy.  Federal 
troops  used  the  house  as  a  hospital  during  the  War  between  the  States. 


NEW     BERN  227 

10  (16).  The  SLOVER-GUION  HOUSE  {private),  SW.  corner  E.  Front 
and  Johnson  Sts.,  erected  about  1835,  is  a  massive,  three-story  brick  house  of 
Early  Republican  type  with  a  central  portico.  The  large  windows  have  shut- 
ters divided  into  three  sections  fastened  with  iron  catches.  The  first-floor 
windows  have  wrought-iron  balconies.  The  brick  kitchen  and  slave  house  in 
the  rear  have  been  modernized.  General  Burnside  made  his  headquarters 
here  in  1862. 

11  (17).  The  RICHARDSON  HOUSE  (private),  SE.  corner  Johnson  and 
Craven  Sts.,  is  a  massive  four-story  frame  house  with  a  railed  one-story  front 
porch  which  has  curved  cement  steps  at  both  ends.  Built  in  1828,  it  is  one 
of  several  in  New  Bern  that  has  a  captain's  walk,  also  called  catwalk  or 
widow's  walk.  These  railed  platforms  between  the  chimneys,  reached  by  a 
trap  door  in  the  roof,  were  used  to  sight  approaching  ships.  In  1863  the 
house  was  used  by  the  9th  New  Jersey  Infantry  for  a  hospital.  The  original 
staircase  and  several  hand-carved  mantels  were  removed  by  Federal  "bum- 
mers" (plundering  stragglers). 

12  (18).  The  JERKINS-DUFFY  HOUSE  {private),  SW.  corner  John- 
son and  Craven  Sts.,  was  built  by  Alonzo  T.  Jerkins  in  1790.  The  white  clap- 
board dwelling,  L-shaped  in  plan,  has  an  entrance  with  carved  pediment 
and  fanlight,  flanked  by  slender  columns  and  approached  by  shallow  steps 
on  both  sides.  In  the  angle  of  the  ell  is  a  two-story  gallery  porch  with  square 
wooden  columns  and  a  delicate  railing  at  each  level.  There  is  a  captain's 
walk  between  the  chimneys  at  the  west  end  of  the  house.  The  interior  is 
finished  with  wide  paneling.  The  house  is  on  the  Site  of  the  Birthplace 
of  William  Gaston  (1778-1844),  who  served  as  Justice  of  the  North  Caro- 
lina Supreme  Court,  wrote  the  words  of  the  State  song,  "Old  North  State," 
and  influenced  adoption  of  a  constitutional  amendment  permitting  Catholics 
to  hold  State  offices.  Gastonia  and  Gaston  County  are  named  for  him  (see 
tour  igb). 

13  (19).  The  GASTON  HOUSE  (private),  SW.  corner  Craven  and  New 
Sts.,  is  a  two-story  frame  structure  built  close  to  the  street  and  fronted  by  a 
double-gallery  porch  with  a  noteworthy  balustrade  at  the  second  floor.  The 
entrance  is  on  the  west  of  the  facade  and  the  roof  is  marked  by  dormer  win- 
dows. Fine  mantels  and  wainscot  are  used  throughout  the  spacious  house, 
which  was  erected  in  181 8.  In  the  rear  yard  is  Judge  Gaston's  original  law 
office,  a  one-story  frame  building  painted  red  and  falling  into  disrepair. 

14.  On  the  COURTHOUSE  LAWN,  W.  side  of  Craven  between  New  and 
Broad  Sts.,  is  the  Washington  Oak  (20),  planted  in  1925  as  a  memorial  of 
President  Washington's  visit,  and  a  Marker  (21)  with  bronze  memorial 
tablets  to  the  three  New  Bernians  who  were  Governors  of  the  State:  Richard 
Dobbs  Spaight,  Richard  Dobbs  Spaight,  the  younger,  and  Abner  Nash. 

15  (22).  CITY  HALL  (open  9-5  weekdays),  NW.  corner  Craven  and  Pol- 
lock Sts.  (erected  as  a  post  office  in  1897,  remodeled  in  1935),  is  of  yellow 


228  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

brick  trimmed  with  terra  cotta.  Over  its  arched  entrances  are  two  copper 
black  bears,  symbols  of  the  town.  Inside  hangs  a  framed  banner,  gift  of  the 
Burgesses  of  Bern  in  1896,  after  New  Bern  had  adopted  the  armorial  bear- 
ings and  colors  of  the  patron  city.  Here  also  are  the  original  parchment 
grants  from  Queen  Anne  to  de  Graffenried. 

16  (26).  The  FIRST  BAPTIST  CHURCH,  Middle  St.  between  S.  Front 
and  Pollock  Sts.,  a  Gothic  Revival  brick  structure,  was  built  in  1848.  The 
congregation  was  organized  in  1809.  Early  pastors  of  this  church  have  left 
an  imprint  upon  Baptist  affairs  in  North  Carolina.  Thomas  Meredith  was 
long  prominent  in  the  denomination  and  the  Baptist  woman's  college  in 
Raleigh  bears  his  name.  William  Hooper,  a  leader  in  founding  Wake  Forest 
College,  and  Samuel  Wait,  its  first  president,  were  pastors  of  this  church. 

17  (27).  CHRIST  EPISCOPAL  CHURCH,  NE.  corner  Pollock  and  Mid- 
dle Sts.,  a  weathered  red  brick  edifice  whose  lofty,  gold-crowned  spire  rises 
above  great  trees  shading  an  old  graveyard,  was  erected  in  1873  upon  the 
site  of  two  earlier  churches.  The  parish  was  organized  in  1715  and  the  first 
church  was  built  in  1750.  A  Bible,  Book  of  Common  Prayer,  and  silver  com- 
munion service  given  by  George  II  are  retained,  though  royal  Governor 
Martin  attempted  to  take  them  with  him  when  he  fled  the  town  in  1775. 
When  Parson  Reed,  the  royalist  rector,  prayed  for  the  King,  lads  prompted 
by  patriot  parents  drummed  at  the  door  and  shouted  "Off  with  his  head!" 
This  church  was  razed  during  the  Revolution,  reputedly  because  the  brick 
had  been  brought  from  England.  The  second  church  was  erected  in  1825. 
Its  outer  walls  were  used  in  construction  of  the  present  building.  In  a  corner 
of  the  churchyard  fence,  with  its  muzzle  imbedded  in  the  ground,  is  the 
Lady  Blessington  Cannon  (28),  taken  from  the  British  ship  Lady  Blessing- 
ton,  captured  in  the  Revolution. 

18  (29).  The  SITE  OF  THE  OLD  COURTHOUSE,  at  the  intersection 
of  Middle  and  Broad  Sts.,  is  the  spot  where,  on  May  31,  1775,  patriots 
adopted  resolutions  pledging  their  support  to  the  cause  of  independence. 

19  (31).  The  FEDERAL  BUILDING  {lobby  always  open),  SW.  corner 
Middle  and  New  Sts.,  erected  in  1933-35,  is  designed  in  the  Georgian 
Colonial  style  with  tapestry  brick  walls  and  limestone  trim.  The  architect 
was  Robert  F.  Smallwood.  David  Silvette  painted  the  murals  in  the  court- 
room {open  in  court  season  or  upon  request),  depicting  scenes  in  the  early 
history  of  the  section.  The  building  occupies  the  original  site  of  the  John 
Wright  Stanly  House. 

20  (32).  The  CENTENARY  METHODIST  CHURCH,  SE.  corner 
Middle  and  New  Sts.,  built  in  1905,  is  a  buff  brick  structure  of  modified 
Romanesque  design  with  a  semicircular  arcade  at  the  main  entrance  between 
two  towers  of  different  heights.  The  first  church,  Andrews  Chapel,  was 
built  in  1802.  A  church  called  Centenary,  erected  on  New  Street  in  1843-44, 
remains,  though  unused. 


NEW    BERN  229 

21  (33).  ST.  PAUL'S  ROMAN  CATHOLIC  CHURCH,  Middle  St.  be- 
tween New  and  Johnson  Sts.,  was  erected  in  1841.  It  is  a  white  clapboard 
structure  with  a  square,  steepled  entrance  tower.  The  parish,  organized  in 
1820,  was  the  first  of  the  Catholic  faith  in  North  Carolina. 

22  (36).  The  JOHN  WRIGHT  STANLY  HOUSE,  New  St.  between 
Middle  and  Hancock  Sts.,  now  a  Public  Library  {open  10-12,  j-S  week- 
days), was  built  prior  to  1790.  It  contains  a  collection  of  items  from  Tryon 
Palace,  including  door  knobs,  locks,  keys,  and  bricks.  The  building  formerly 
stood  on  the  lot  occupied  by  the  Federal  Building;  it  was  moved  to  its  present 
location  and  remodeled  in  1935-36.  The  main  block  of  the  frame  house  with 
its  corner  quoins  and  flush  siding  is  rectangular  in  plan  with  a  continuous 
cornice.  The  windows  of  the  lower  floor,  like  the  doorway,  are  pedi- 
mented.  Its  Georgian  hip  roof  has  three  hipped  dormers  and  a  flat  deck, 
which  is  surrounded  by  a  balustrade  and  flanked  by  two  chimneys.  This  was 
the  home  of  John  Wright  Stanly,  merchant  and  patriot,  who  lost  14  privateers 
in  the  Revolution.  Washington,  Lafayette  and  Nathanael  Greene  were 
entertained  here.  It  was  also  the  home  of  the  builder's  son,  John  Stanly, 
jurist  and  legislator,  and  the  birthplace  (1817)  of  John  Stanly's  grandson, 
Gen.  Lewis  Addison  Armistead,  who  was  killed  while  leading  a  Con- 
federate division  at  Gettysburg. 

23  (37).  The  FIRST  PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCH  {always  open),  New 
St.  opposite  the  Stanly  House,  was  built  by  Uriah  Sandy  (1819-22).  This 
white  weatherboarded  meetinghouse,  with  fanlighted  door,  a  graceful  Ionic 
portico,  and  a  square  tower  diminishing  in  five  stages  to  an  octagonal  cupola, 
is  55  by  70  feet.  Early  prints  show  urns  on  each  set-back  of  the  tower  but 
they  have  disappeared.  The  many-paned  windows  on  the  first  story  are 
rectangular,  while  those  at  the  gallery  level  are  arched  with  traceried  mun- 
tins.  The  hand-carved  pulpit  is  between  the  two  doors,  and  the  floor  rises 
toward  the  rear.  In  1893  the  rear  entrance  was  added  and  conventional  pews 
were  installed.  Originally  there  were  straight  seats  under  the  balconies  and 
mahogany  box  pews  in  the  center.  Printed  deeds  were  issued  to  holders  of 
these  pews  who  paid  from  $150  to  $300  for  their  use.  During  Federal  occu- 
pation the  church  was  used  as  a  military  hospital.  Church  relics  are  kept 
in  the  building,  including  the  original  church  deed,  a  sperm-oil  lamp  once 
used  here,  and  the  original  communion  service.  The  congregation  was 
organized  in  1817. 

24  (38).  NEW  BERN  ACADEMY,  Hancock  St.,  between  New  and  John- 
son Sts.,  housing  a  section  of  the  city  schools,  is  a  late  Georgian  Colonial 
structure,  erected  in  1 806  on  the  site  of  the  original  academy  building  burned 
in  1795.  The  red  brick  building  rises  in  two  stories  to  a  level  hand-carved 
cornice  beneath  a  hip  roof,  broken  by  two  central  chimneys.  A  central 
pavilion  projects  slightly  from  the  facade  and  is  surmounted  by  a  pediment. 
A  classic  semicircular  entrance  portico  was  restored  in  1935.  New  Bern 
Academy,  the  first  incorporated  school  in  the  State,  opened  in   1764  and 


23O  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

received  its  charter  in  1766.  It  was  partially  maintained  by  a  tax  of  a  cent 
a  gallon  on  all  liquors  brought  up  the  Neuse  River. 

25  (39).  The  MASONIC  TEMPLE  (open  9-12,  7-5  daily),  SE.  corner 
Hancock  and  Johnson  Sts.,  was  completed  in  1808  and  is  one  of  the  oldest 
in  continuous  service  in  the  country.  The  brick  building  of  Classical  Revival 
architecture  has  a  shallow  surface  arch  of  elliptical  outline  in  the  stuccoed 
wall,  corner  quoins,  and  prominent  voussoirs  over  the  flat-arched  windows. 
The  second-floor  lodge  room  contains  notable  hand-carved  paneling,  and 
Masonic  relics.  St.  John's  Lodge,  No.  3,  A.F.  and  A.M.  was  chartered  Jan. 
10,  1772,  by  Joseph  Montfort,  only  Provincial  grand  master  for  America. 
The  Masonic  Theater,  on  the  first  floor,  is  one  of  the  oldest  theaters  still 
in  use  in  the  United  States.  The  building  was  renovated  in  1938,  the  decora- 
tions based  upon  Egyptian  design. 

Under  the  trees  behind  the  Masonic  Temple  is  the  Site  of  the  Duel 
(Sept.  5,  1802)  between  Gov.  Richard  Dobbs  Spaight,  the  elder,  and  John 
Stanly,  the  younger.  As  rival  leaders  of  the  Republican  and  Federalist  parties, 
they  clashed  frequently.  Stanly  charged  that  Spaight,  as  Senator,  had  avoided 
voting  on  important  legislation  under  pretense  of  illness.  Spaight  retaliated 
with  a  forcefully  worded  handbill.  A  challenge  from  Stanly  was  promptly 
accepted.  Mortally  wounded  on  the  fourth  fire,  Spaight  died  the  following 
day.  Criminal  proceedings  were  instituted  against  Stanly  but  he  was  par- 
doned by  Gov.  Benjamin  Williams. 

26  (40).  The  SITE  OF  THE  RAINS  HOUSE,  61  Johnson  St.,  is  occupied 
by  the  Presbyterian  manse  (private).  In  a  home  on  this  site  Gabriel  J. 
Rains  was  born  in  1803,  and  his  brother,  George  Washington  Rains,  in  1817. 
Gabriel  invented  submarine  explosives  used  against  blockading  Federal  ships 
and  was  superintendent  of  the  Torpedo  Bureau  of  the  C.S.A.  George,  in- 
ventor and  author,  was  connected  with  munitions  operations  in  the  Confed- 
erate service. 

27  (41).  CEDAR  GROVE  CEMETERY,  NE.  corner  Queen  and  George 
Sts.,  was  opened  in  1800  by  the  Episcopalians  and  turned  over  to  the  city  in 
1854.  At  the  Queen  Street  entrance  is  the  Weeping  Arch,  so  named  because 
its  highly  absorbent  coquina  rock  retains  moisture  that  drips  like  tears.  Some 
believe  that  the  touch  of  a  drop  marks  one  as  the  next  to  pass  in  a  hearse. 
The  Confederate  Monument,  a  15-foot  marble  shaft,  identifies  a  mass  Con- 
federate grave.  Tradition  says  that  his  law  desk  and  chair  were  buried  in  this 
cemetery  with  the  body  of  William  Gaston.  Interred  here  are  William  J. 
Williams,  who  painted  the  Masonic  portrait  of  Washington  owned  by  the 
Alexandria,  Va.,  lodge,  a  photograph  of  which  is  in  the  New  Bern  Public 
Library,  and  Moses  Griffin,  benefactor  of  city  schools. 

28  (42).  KAFER  PARK,  NW.  corner  Queen  and  George  Sts.,  is  the  city 
athletic  field,  part  of  the  area  taken  over  by  the  municipality  after  the  Decem- 
ber 1922  fire. 


NEW    BERN  231 

29  (43).  The  NATIONAL  CEMETERY,  N.  end  of  National  Ave.,  con- 
tains the  graves  of  3,500  Union  soldiers. 

30  (44).  The  SITE  OF  JAMES  GILL'S  SHOP,  Broad  St.  between  George 
and  Burn  Sts.,  is  indicated  by  a  marker.  Gill,  a  locksmith  and  silversmith, 
in  1829  invented  an  early  revolver,  a  percussion  cap  weapon  with  14  cham- 
bers. 

31  (46).  The  JONES-LIPMAN  HOUSE  (private),  SW.  corner  Pollock 
and  Eden  Sts.,  is  a  small  frame  structure.  Here  Emeline  Pigott,  Confederate 
spy,  was  imprisoned  during  Federal  occupation.  She  was  caught  trying  to 
slip  through  the  lines  into  New  Bern  without  a  pass.  Her  story  that  she  was 
attempting  to  take  a  chicken  to  her  sick  mother  failed  to  impress  the  captain 
who  questioned  her.  She  was  released  from  jail  without  trial  and  given  a 
military  escort  to  her  home  county  of  Carteret.  She  later  admitted  having 
swallowed  incriminating  papers  which  she  had  on  her  person  when  arrested. 

32  (48).  The  BRYAN-ASHFORD  HOUSE  {private),  115  Pollock  St., 
was  built  in  1804  by  James  Bryan.  It  is  a  two-and-a-half-story  brick  structure 
with  a  story-and-a-half  clapboard  wing.  The  entrance  is  set  in  paneled  reveal 
and  has  a  transom.  The  small  porch  has  four  slender  columns  on  high  square 
bases.  Iron  guardrails  of  balcony  height  and  full-length  louvered  shutters  pro- 
tect the  first-floor  windows,  which  extend  down  to  the  floor.  The  wing, 
built  in  1824  for  a  law  office,  has  the  ridge  of  its  roof  running  perpendicular 
to  the  street  and  a  well-proportioned  entrance,  with  hand-carved  pediment 
and  sunbursts,  in  the  center  of  the  front  gabled  facade. 

33  (50).  The  WEST  WING  OF  TRYON  PALACE  (private),  24  George 
St.,  is  all  that  survives  of  Tryon  Palace,  the  town's  first  show  place,  once 
regarded  as  one  of  the  most  beautiful  structures  in  British  America.  This 
relic  retains  no  vestige  of  past  glory,  beauty,  or  elegance.  It  served  as  ware- 
house, dwelling,  stable  and  carriage  house,  parochial  school,  and  chapel 
prior  to  its  conversion  (1931)  into  an  apartment  house.  In  1798,  a  Negro 
woman,  searching  for  eggs  in  the  cellar  with  a  lightwood  torch,  started  a  fire 
that  destroyed  the  central  section  and  east  wing. 

Tryon  Palace  was  built  in  1767-70  under  the  supervision  of  John  Hawks, 
who  came  from  England  with  Tryon.  It  was  the  Governor's  residence  and 
statehouse,  containing  assembly  hall,  council  chamber,  and  public  offices. 
This  was  the  seat  of  government  under  royal  Governors  Tryon  and  Martin, 
and  under  Richard  Caswell,  first  constitutional  Governor  (1777).  Here  was 
held  North  Carolina's  First  Provincial  Congress,  in  defiance  of  royal  author- 
ity (1774),  and  the  first  constitutional  general  assembly  (1777).  In  1791, 
when  Washington  was  tendered  a  magnificent  ball,  his  horses  were  stabled 
in  the  executive  offices  and  he  described  the  palace  as  "now  hastening  to 
ruin." 

Tryon  was  able  to  secure  the  appropriation  for  the  erection  of  the  palace 
from  an  assembly  tractable  because  of  the  recent  repeal  of  the  unpopular 
Stamp  Act.  The  amount  involved  was  more  than  ^16,000.  Wide  disapproval 


232  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

of  such  expenditure  of  the  people's  tax  money  was  a  factor  in  precipitating 
the  War  of  the  Regulation,  in  which  Tryon  resorted  to  armed  force  to  quell 
the  Regulators. 

The  Hawks  design  included  a  brick  house  of  two  main  stories,  87  feet 
wide  and  59  feet  deep,  with  two  outlying  wings  of  two  low  stories  each,  con- 
nected with  the  main  block  by  semicircular  colonnades.  One  wing  contained 
servants'  quarters  and  a  laundry,  the  other,  granary  and  hayloft.  Written 
accounts  describe  the  construction  from  the  shingled  roof  "More  beautiful 
than  slate  or  tyle"  down  to  "two  wells  with  Pumps  Compleat." 

William  Attmore,  besides  describing  in  1787  the  "grand  Staircase  lighted 
from  the  Sky  by  a  low  Dome,  which  being  glazed  kept  out  the  weather," 
noted  that  "the  King  of  G.  Britain's  Arms  are  still  suffered  to  appear  in  a 
pediment  at  the  front  of  the  Building;  which,  considering  the  independent 
spirit  of  the  people  averse  to  every  vestige  of  Royalty  appears  Something 
strange." 

Over  the  vestibule  door  was  a  Latin  inscription,  ironic  to  tax-burdened 
Carolinians: 

A  free  and  happy  people,  opposed  to  cruel  tyrants,  has  given  this  edifice  to  virtue. 
May  the  house  and  its  inmates,  as  an  example  for  future  ages,  here  cultivate  the  arts, 
order,   justice,   and   the  laws. 

34.  The  REMAINS  OF  FORT  TOTTEN  lie  at  the  western  edge  of  the 
city  between  US  17  and  70.  Trenches  and  breastworks  thrown  up  by  Federal 
troops  in  1862  are  in  a  remarkably  good  state  of  preservation.  Trenches  were 
built  across  New  Bern  from  the  Neuse  to  the  Trent  River  and  a  fort  was 
erected  at  each  terminus  and  in  the  center.  Plans  were  considered  in  1939  for 
restoring  the  central  fort. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  ENVIRONS 

Croatan  National  Forest,  10  m.  (see  tour  28). 


RALEIGH 


Railroad  Station:  Union  Station,  Dawson  and  W.  Martin  Sts.,  for  Seaboard  Air  Line  R.R., 

Southern  Ry.,  and  Norfolk  Southern  R.R. 
Bus  Station:   McDowell    and   W.  Martin   Sts.   for  Atlantic  Greyhound,  Carolina  Coach, 

Southerland  Bros.,  and  Norfolk  Southern. 
Airport:  Municipal,  3.5  m.  S.  on  US  15A  for  Eastern  Air  Lines;  taxi  50^. 
Taxis:  25^,  1-4  passengers,  anywhere  in  city. 
City  Buses:  <$. 
Traffic  Regulations:  Turns  on  red  lights  and  parking  indicated  by  signs. 

Accommodations:  10  hotels  (2  for  Negroes);  tourist  homes,  tourist  camps. 

Information  Service:  Chamber  of  Commerce,  17  W.  Davie  St.;  Carolina  Motor  Club, 
15  W.  Davie  St.;  State  Highway  Dept.,  112  E.  Morgan  St. 

Radio  Station:  WPTF   (680  kc). 

Theaters  and  Motion  Picture  Houses:  Memorial   Auditorium,  Fayetteville  and  South  Sts., 

Ambassador  Theater,    Fayetteville   St.,    and    State   Theater,    S.    Salisbury   St.,   concerts, 

local  productions,  occasional  road  shows;  6  motion  picture  houses  (1  for  Negroes). 
Swimming:  Pullen  Park,  approached  from  Hillsboro  St.  or  US  1 ;  John  Chavis  Memorial 

Park  (Negro),  Lenoir  St.  at  city  limits. 
Golf:  Raleigh  Golf  Assn.,  4  m.  S.  on  county  road  S.  of  airport,  18  holes,  greens  fee,  50^; 

Carolina  Pines,  3.5  m.  S.  on  US    15A,   18  holes,  greens  fee,  50^;  Cheviot  Hills,  9  m. 

NE.  on  US  1,  9  holes,  greens  fee,  25^. 
Tennis:  Raleigh  Tennis  Club,  Dover  Rd.  off  Oberlin  Rd.;  Carolina  Pines,  3.5  m.  S.  on 

US  1 5  A. 
Riding:  Batchelor  Riding  Academy,  2  m.  E.  on  US  64;  Carolina  Pines,  3.5  m.   S.  on 

US  1 5  A. 
Boating:  Pullen  Park,  approached  from  Hillsboro  St.  or  US  1. 
Baseball,  Football:  Riddick  Stadium,  State  College. 

Annual  Events:  Governor's  Inaugural  Ball,  1st  wk.  Jan.  in  years  following  those  divisible 
by  4;  Southern  Conference  Basketball  Tournament,  3  days,  early  Mar.;  Engineers  Fair, 
State  College,  spring;  Flower  Show,  Raleigh  Garden  Club,  May,  Oct.;  Farmers  Con- 
vention, July;  4-H  Club  meeting,  July;  Debutante  Ball,  Sept.;  State  Fair,  3rd  wk. 
Oct.;  State  Literary  and  Historical  Assn.,  State  Folklore  Society,  State  Art  Society,  1st 
wk.  Dec. 

RALEIGH  (363  alt.,  37,379  pop.),  the  capital  of  North  Carolina,  was  made 
to  order  in  a  wooded  wilderness  on  a  Piedmont  hill  near  the  geographical 
center  of  the  State.  In  the  center  of  the  city  is  oak-shaded  Capitol  Square, 
covering  6  acres  and  dominated  by  the  stately  old  Capitol  Building.  Sur- 
rounded by  State  departmental  buildings,  the  square  forms  a  hub  from 
which  the  principal  streets  radiate. 

Of  the  four  squares  set  aside  for  parks  in  the  quarters  of  the  original  town 
plan  two  survive:  Nash  on  the  southwest,  still  a  park,  and  Moore  on  the 
southeast,  used  as  a  produce  market.  Caswell  Square,  on  the  northwest,  is 
occupied  by  the  State  Board  of  Health  buildings.  Burke  Square,  on  the  north- 
east, contains  the  Governor's  mansion. 


234  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

Fayetteville  Street,  running  south  from  Capitol  Square  to  the  modern 
Memorial  Auditorium,  was  once  the  Sunday  promenade  for  Raleigh's 
beaux  and  belles.  Now  it  is  the  chief  commercial  artery,  lined  with  stores, 
hotels,  theaters,  the  Federal  Building,  courthouse,  and  city  hall.  The 
streets  paralleling  and  crossing  Fayetteville  form  the  main  business 
section. 

Raleigh  is  predominantly  a  city  of  comfortable,  unpretentious  homes  with 
broad  lawns  and  gardens  beneath  tall  old  trees.  Suburbs  such  as  Cameron 
Park,  Mordecai,  and  Boylan  Heights  perpetuate  the  names  of  prominent 
families.  The  residential  section  Hayes  Barton  was  named  for  the  home  of 
Sir  Walter  Raleigh  in  England.  Most  Negroes  live  in  the  northeast,  east,  and 
south  sections. 

The  atmosphere  of  Raleigh  reflects  its  varied  functions  as  a  governmental, 
educational,  social,  and  shopping  center.  Life  in  Raleigh  has  two  distinct 
aspects:  one,  the  political  and  official,  changing  every  four  years  with  each 
new  State  administration;  the  other,  that  of  a  community  of  southern  tradi- 
tion and  charm  whose  families  have  been  neighbors  for  generations.  When 
the  general  assembly  is  in  biennial  session,  social  life  attains  its  gayest  tempo; 
hotel  lobbies  swarm  with  delegations  and  hotel  rooms  glow  with  midnight 
conferences. 

In  1 771  when  Wake  County  was  formed  from  parts  of  Cumberland,  John- 
ston, and  Orange  Counties,  a  courthouse  and  jail  were  erected  on  the  hillside 
in  front  of  the  residence  of  Joel  Lane,  who,  with  his  brothers  Joseph  and 
Jesse,  had  come  here  in  1741.  This  home  became  so  popular  with  travelers 
that  the  owner  built  a  tavern  and  helped  to  erect  a  log  church,  the  Asbury 
Meetinghouse.  The  settlement  was  known  as  Wake  Courthouse  or  Blooms- 
bury.  Joel  Lane  served  as  one  of  Tryon's  lieutenants  at  Alamance  in  1771 
(see  tour  25).  The  county  was  made  coextensive  with  St.  Margaret's  Parish, 
and  both  were  named  for  Margaret  Wake,  wife  of  Governor  Tryon. 

Despite  objections  from  North  Carolina's  principal  towns,  the  State  con- 
vention in  1788,  seeking  a  central  location  for  an  "unalterable  seat  of  govern- 
ment," resolved  that  the  site  should  be  within  10  miles  of  Isaac  Hunter's 
plantation.  Hunter's  land  was  among  the  17  tracts  considered,  but  the  com- 
mission of  legislators  purchased  1,000  acres  of  Joel  Lane's  land  for  ^1,378, 
and  it  has  been  suggested  that  Lane's  excellent  punch  played  a  part  in  the 
transaction. 

The  town  was  laid  out  by  William  Christmas  in  April  1792  with  Union 
(now  Capitol)  Square  reserved  for  the  statehouse.  The  four  parks  were 
named  for  the  first  three  Governors  under  the  constitution  and  for  Attorney 
General  Alfred  Moore.  The  streets  were  named  for  the  eight  districts,  each 
identified  by  the  name  of  its  principal  city,  for  the  commissioners,  and  for 
other  prominent  citizens.  In  pursuance  of  instructions  the  commissioners 
built  a  brick  statehouse  "large  enough  for  both  houses  of  the  assembly,"  and 
upon  its  completion  (1794)  Raleigh  was  taunted  with  being  a  "city  of  streets 
without  houses." 

In  1799  two  newspapers  championed  the  rival  creeds  of  the  Federalist  and 
Whig  parties.  By  1800  the  population  numbered  669,  and  during  that  year 
Methodist  Bishop  Francis  Asbury  held  a  "big  meeting"  in  the  statehouse, 


RALEIGH  235 

which  at  the  time  was  used  for  religious  gatherings,  balls,  and  public 
meetings. 

With  State  aid,  the  Raleigh  Academy  for  boys  and  girls  was  established 
on  Burke  Square  in  1801.  The  Indian  Queen  Tavern,  on  the  site  of  the 
present  Federal  Building,  advertised  in  1803  that  it  was  the  best  in  town  with 
"13  rooms,  9  of  which  have  fireplaces."  Casso's  Inn,  opened  in  1804  at  the 
corner  of  Morgan  and  Fayetteville  Streets,  was  an  early  political  rendezvous. 
The  town  bell  hung  at  this  corner. 

Destructive  fires  occurred  in  181 8,  1821,  and  1831.  In  the  last  the  State- 
house  was  destroyed  and  with  it  the  marble  statue  of  George  Washington  by 
the  Italian  sculptor,  Canova,  reputed  to  have  been  the  most  precious  work  of 
art  in  the  United  States. 

In  1840  a  three-day  celebration,  with  parades,  orations,  and  subscription 
balls  marked  the  completion  of  the  new  statehouse  and  the  entrance  of  the 
first  train  over  the  Raleigh  &  Gaston  R.R.,  first  standard-gage  railway  in  the 
State.  The  Raleigh  Guards,  organized  in  1846,  served  in  the  Mexican  War. 
In  1850  the  Raleigh  Register  published  the  first  daily  newspaper  in  North 
Carolina. 

Although  Union  sentiment  was  strong  in  Raleigh,  100  guns  were  fired  on 
Capitol  Square  and  bells  were  rung  when  the  State  convention  adopted  the 
secession  ordinance  on  May  20,  1861.  The  city  became  a  concentration  point 
for  Confederate  troops,  and  gunpowder  and  other  supplies  were  manufac- 
tured here.  Saltpeter  was  stored  in  the  capitol  rotunda.  When  Sherman's 
army  entered  without  resistance,  Apr.  14,  1865,  David  L.  Swain  {see  ashe- 
ville  and  chapel  hill)  delivered  the  keys  to  the  capitol  in  the  absence  of 
Governor  Vance. 

After  a  period  of  military  control,  a  State  regime  was  set  up  under  Presi- 
dent Johnson's  Reconstruction  plan,  but  this  was  upset  by  the  Congressional 
Reconstruction  program  in  1867.  Military  rule  again  prevailed  pending  the 
adoption  of  a  new  constitution  and  ratification  of  the  14th  amendment. 

W.  W.  Holden  was  elected  Governor  in  1868.  A  Negro-controlled  carpet- 
bagger assembly  took  charge  of  State  affairs,  indulged  in  lavish  expenditure, 
voted  themselves  salaries  of  $8  per  day  and  20^  per  mile  for  travel,  and 
installed  an  open  bar  in  the  capitol,  which  was  dubbed  the  "third  house." 
Nicks  in  the  capitol  steps  remain  where  whisky  barrels  were  rolled  in  and 
out.  This  situation  stimulated  Ku  Klux  Klan  activity  in  the  State,  which  was 
met  by  drastic  action  on  the  part  of  Governor  Holden  and  resulted  in  his 
impeachment  in  1870  on  charges  of  malfeasance  {see  history).  The 
Democrats  were  finally  restored  and  Reconstruction  was  brought  to  an  end 
with  Zebulon  B.  Vance's  return  to  the  Governorship  in  1877. 

By  1900  cotton  and  knitting  mills,  a  tobacco  warehouse,  and  an  electric 
power  plant  had  been  established.  A  union  passenger  station  was  built  for 
the  three  railroads  serving  the  city.  In  1920  the  corporate  limits  were 
extended  to  cover  7%  square  miles. 

Raleigh's  population  includes  some  2,000  State  and  numerous  Federal 
employees,  since  the  city  is  the  administrative  center  of  the  national  recovery 
program  in  the  State.  Manufactured  products  include  cotton  goods,  cotton- 
seed oil,  furniture,  building  supplies  and  automobile  bodies.  Raleigh  is  a 


236  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

center  for  the  distribution  of  cotton  and  bright-leaf  tobacco.  Large  printing 
establishments  publish  books  and  periodicals. 

Raleigh's  literary  history  began  with  Joseph  Gales,  State  printer  (1800-29), 
publisher  of  the  first  two  volumes  of  the  Annals  of  Congress,  His  wife,  Wini- 
fred Marshall  Gales,  wrote  Matilda  Berkley  (1804),  first  novel  printed  in  the 
State.  Capt.  Samuel  A.  Ashe  (1840-1938),  journalist  and  historian,  was  the 
author  of  History  of  North  Carolina;  Josephus  Daniels,  Secretary  of  the 
Navy  under  Wilson,  and  Ambassador  to  Mexico  (1933-  ),  wrote  Our 
Navy  at  War,  and  Life  of  Wilson.  Raleigh  poets  include  Henry  Jerome 
Stockard  (1858-1916),  who  wrote  Fugitive  Lines,  and  Theophilus  Hunter 
Hill  (1836-1901),  whose  Hesper  and  Other  Poems  was  the  first  book  pub- 
lished under  the  copyright  laws  of  the  Confederate  States.  Thomas  Dixon, 
author  of  Leopard's  Spots  and  the  Clansman,  is  clerk  of  the  United  States 
district  court  in  Raleigh  (1939).  Clarence  Poe,  editor  of  the  Progressive 
Farmer,  has  written  books  on  agriculture  and  travel.  Jonathan  Daniels,  editor 
of  the  News  and  Observer,  wrote  Clash  of  Angels  and  A  Southerner  Dis- 
covers the  South;  Anne  Preston  Bridgers,  coauthor  of  Coquette,  was  one  of 
the  founders  of  the  Raleigh  Little  Theater. 

At  the  annual  meeting  of  the  North  Carolina  Literary  and  Historical 
Association,  the  Mayflower  Cup  is  awarded  for  the  year's  outstanding  book 
by  a  North  Carolinian.  The  State  Art  Society  owns  and  exhibits  the  Robert 
Phifer  collection  of  prints  and  paintings. 

In  1808  Raleigh  was  the  home  of  John  Chavis,  Negro  schoolmaster  who 
taught  both  white  and  colored  people.  As  early  as  1816,  Archibald  D. 
Murphey  introduced  resolutions  in  the  assembly  favoring  establishment  of 
a  Government-controlled  colony  for  "persons  of  colour  who  have  been  or 
shall  be  emancipated."  The  Raleigh  Auxiliary  Society  for  Colonizing  the 
Free  People  of  Colour  of  the  United  States  was  organized  in  18 19.  By  1829 
there  were  nine  such  societies  in  the  State.  John  Rex,  taciturn  Raleigh  tanner 
who  originally  endowed  Rex  Hospital,  left  a  sizable  part  of  his  estate  (1838) 
in  trust  to  finance  transportation  to  Africa  for  all  his  slaves  who  were  willing 
to  go.  While  the  State  did  not  officially  support  any  colonization  effort, 
there  were  many  private  contributions,  notably  by  the  Quakers. 

The  12,575  Negroes  of  the  city,  33  percent  of  the  total  population,  own 
and  operate  hotels,  newspapers,  banks,  and  a  savings  association.  They  have 
two  colleges,  libraries,  municipal  playgrounds,  churches,  hospitals,  and  other 
institutions.  Many  are  represented  in  the  professions,  although  the  bulk  of 
the  Negro  population  is  engaged  in  domestic  work  and  in  business  estab- 
lishments. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  The  STATE  CAPITOL  {open  9-5  Mon.-Fri.;  g-i  Sat.)  rises  in  impres- 
sive simplicity  from  the  center  of  Capitol  Square  at  the  N.  end  of  Fayette- 
ville  St.  Solid  and  imposing,  yet  of  graceful  lines,  the  structure  is  an  excellent 
example  of  the  Greek  Revival  mode.  The  building  is  illuminated  at  night 
by  tinted  floodlights.  Sentimental  attachment  to  the  century-old  building  has 
resisted  efforts  to  replace  it  with  a  larger  modern  structure. 

The  capitol  was  authorized  by  the  general  assembly  in  1832.  W.  S.  Drum- 


RALEIGH  237 

mond  and  Col.  Thomas  Bragg  were  the  architects,  with  Ithiel  Town,  then  at 
work  on  the  New  York  Customhouse,  as  consultant.  Through  Town, 
David  Paton  was  secured  in  1834  t0  ta^e  complete  charge.  Paton  imported 
stonemasons  from  Scotland,  whose  cutting  and  finishing  he  personally  di- 
rected. The  cornerstone  was  laid  in  1833,  and  the  building  was  completed 
in  1840  at  a  cost  of  $530,684. 

The  cruciform  structure,  160  feet  long  north  to  south,  140  feet  east  to 
west,  and  97 1/%  feet  high  at  the  center,  is  constructed  of  rectangular  granite 
blocks  of  irregular  size,  quarried  a  mile  southeast  of  the  site.  Once  streaked 
with  black,  the  stone  has  weathered  to  a  warm  tan.  The  Raleigh  Experi- 
mental Railway,  first  in  North  Carolina,  ran  from  the  east  portico  of  the 
capitol  to  the  quarry  to  haul  the  stone.  Horse-drawn  cars  were  operated  over 
this  strap-iron  tramway,  and  a  passenger  car  was  run  after  working  hours 
"for  the  accommodation  of  such  ladies  and  gentlemen  as  desired  to  take  the 
exercise  of  a  railroad  airing." 

Doric  porticoes  on  the  east  and  west  wings  and  the  weathered  green  copper 
roof  and  dome  with  its  crownlike  cresting,  provide  the  dominant  architec- 
tural motifs  of  the  exterior.  The  difficulty  of  adapting  the  Doric  order  to  a 
three-story  building  was  overcome  by  using  the  first  story  as  a  base  and 
permitting  the  columns  to  run  through  the  upper  stories  to  an  adequate 
pediment.  Paton  employed  Greek  methods  of  construction,  stone-cutting, 
and  finishing.  No  color  was  applied,  but  an  adjustment  of  light  and  shadow 
was  obtained  by  recessing  the  windows  between  simple  piers.  In  the  entrance 
hallways  are  worn  stairs  with  wrought-iron  handrails,  uneven  flooring  of 
slabs,  and  monolithic  Ionic  columns,  all  of  granite.  Wood  was  used  for  the 
heavy  studded  doors  and  light  window  frames. 

The  carved  ornamental  detail  in  the  halls  and  public  rooms  is  Greek,  em- 
ploying Ionic  and  Corinthian  forms,  but  the  private  offices  show  touches  of 
the  English  Gothic.  The  vestibules  are  decorated  with  columns  and  pilasters 
similar  to  those  of  the  Ionic  Temple  on  the  Ilissus,  near  the  Acropolis.  The 


Key  to  Raleigh  Map 

1.  The  State  Capitol.  2.  The  State  Supreme  Court  Building.  3.  The  State  Office 
Building.  4.  The  State  Agricultural  Building.  5.  The  Richard  B.  Haywood  House. 
6.  Christ  Church.  7.  The  Treasurer  Haywood  House.  8.  The  Governor's  Mansion. 
9.  The  Henry  Clay  Oak.  10.  Peace,  a  Junior  College  for  Women.  11.  The  Mordecai 
House.  12.  Oakwood  Cemetery.  13.  St.  Augustine's  College.  14.  National  Cemetery. 
15.  The  Site  of  the  Birthplace  of  Andrew  Johnson.  16.  The  Richard  B.  Harrison  Library. 
17.  The  Wake  County  Courthouse.  18.  The  Memorial  Auditorium.  19.  Shaw  Univer- 
sity. 20.  The  Sacred  Heart  Cathedral.  21.  The  St.  Paul  A.M.E.  Church.  22.  The 
Joel  Lane  House.  23.  St.  Mary's  School.  24  Confederate  Breastworks.  25.  Pullen 
Park.  26.  The  North  Carolina  State  College  of  Agriculture  and  Engineering  of  the 
University  of  North  Carolina.  27.  The  State  School  for  the  Blind.  28.  Central  Prison. 
29.  The  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane. 

a.  Post  Office,  b.  Union  Station,  c.  Bus  Station,  d.  Chamber  of  Commerce,  e.  Caro- 
lina Motor  Club,  f.  Caswell  Square — State  Board  of  Health,  g.  Nash  Square,  h.  Moore 
Square.  1.  Airport,  k.  Raleigh  Golf  Association,  l.  Carolina  Pines,  m.  Cheviot  Hills. 
n.  Negro  Park. 


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24O  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

remainder  is  groined  with  stone  and  brick  pilasters  of  the  Roman  Doric 
order. 

At  the  intersection  of  the  principal  axes  of  the  plan  is  a  rotunda  crowned 
by  a  low  dome  which,  despite  its  stylistic  inconsistency,  harmonizes  with 
the  Doric  detail  of  the  exterior.  The  interior  of  the  rotunda  has  a  maximum 
height  of  93V2  feet.  Bronze  plaques  on  the  walls  of  the  first  floor  com- 
memorate important  events  or  personages  in  North  Carolina  history.  There 
are  niches  containing  busts  of  John  M.  Morehead  {see  Greensboro),  William 
A.  Graham  {see  tour  //),  Samuel  Johnston  {see  tour  ia),  and  Matt  W. 
Ransom  {see  tour  24a).  All  were  sculptured  by  F.  Wellington  Ruckstuhl 
between  1909  and  1912. 

The  floor  of  the  rotunda  at  the  second  story  is  in  the  form  of  a  gallery 
around  a  17-foot  circular  well,  overhanging  the  lower  floor  about  9  feet  with- 
out apparent  support.  Mortised  curving  stone  stairs  to  the  third  floor,  at  the 
north  of  the  west  entrance,  are  supported  by  their  own  construction. 

On  the  first  floor  are  offices  for  the  Governor,  secretary  of  state,  State  treas- 
urer, and  State  auditor.  The  second  floor  contains  the  senate  chamber  and 
the  hall  of  the  house  of  representatives.  The  plan  of  the  house  of  representa- 
tives is  that  of  a  Greek  amphitheater,  with  a  semicircular  Greek  Doric  colon- 
nade. The  senate  chamber,  with  columns  of  similar  order,  is  cruciform  in 
plan  with  a  rostrum  at  the  north  side. 

The  third  floor,  used  for  clerical  purposes,  is  finished  in  the  florid  Gothic 
style.  The  lobbies  as  well  as  the  rotunda  are  lighted  with  cupolas. 

On  the  east  grounds  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Zebulon  Baird  Vance  {see  ashe- 
ville)  by  Henry  J.  Ellicott,  erected  in  1903.  Beside  it  are  fountains  in  two 
lily  ponds  and  two  mortars  from  Fort  Macon.  To  the  southeast  of  the  capitol 
is  a  statue  of  Charles  D.  Mclver  {see  greensboro)  sculptured  by  Ruckstuhl 
and  erected  in  191 1.  On  the  south,  within  an  iron  fence,  is  a  bronze  copy 
of  Houdon's  Washington  from  the  original  in  the  capitol  at  Richmond,  Va., 
placed  here  in  1858.  It  is  flanked  by  a  pair  of  French-cast  cannon  made  in 
1748,  mounted  at  Edenton  in  1778,  and  brought  here  in  1903.  West  of  this 
is  a  statue  of  Charles  Brantley  Aycock  by  Gutzon  Borglum,  erected  in  1924. 
At  the  southwest  corner,  facing  Morgan  Street,  is  a  monument  to  the  women 
of  the  Confederacy  by  Augustus  Lukeman.  To  the  west  of  the  capitol  is  a 
statue  by  W.  S.  Packer  of  Ensign  Worth  Bagley  of  Raleigh,  first  American 
officer  killed  in  the  Spanish-American  War.  Beside  it  is  a  Spanish  gun, 
mounted  here  in  1908.  On  the  northwest  is  Borglum's  statue  of  Henry  Law- 
son  Wyatt,  first  North  Carolina  soldier  killed  in  action  in  the  War  between 
the  States,  at  Bethel  Church,  June  10,  1861.  Dominating  the  west  grounds 
and  Salisbury  Street  is  a  reproduction  of  Muldoon's  Confederate  Monument, 
a  70-foot  shaft  surmounted  and  flanked  with  bronze  figures  of  Confederate 
soldiers.  Two  32-pounders  cast  in  1848,  are  mounted  beside  the  monument. 

2.  The  STATE  SUPREME  COURT  BUILDING  (all  depts.  open  ?-5  week- 
days), facing  the  capitol  between  Salisbury  and  Fayetteville  Sts.,  is  a  four-story 
limestone  structure  of  modified  French  Renaissance  design.  Completed  in 
1913,  it  houses  several  State  departments.  The  State  Library,  on  the  1st 
floor,  originated  in  a  miscellaneous  collection  of  books  for  the  use  of  legislators 


RALEIGH  241 

and  State  officials.  It  contains  works  on  genealogy,  material  relating  to  the 
War  between  the  States,  early  newspapers,  Colonial  and  State  records.  On  the 
3rd  floor  are  the  Supreme  Court  Chamber,  the  offices  of  court  officials  and 
of  the  attorney  general.  The  Library  of  the  Supreme  Court,  founded  in 
1 81 2,  occupies  the  4th  floor. 

3.  The  STATE  OFFICE  BUILDING  (1938),  NW,  corner  Salisbury  and 
Edenton  Sts.,  is  a  five-story  white  granite  structure  of  modern  design.  The 
1  st  floor  is  occupied  by  the  North  Carolina  Historical  Commission.  The 
Hall  of  History  {open  9-5  Mon.-Fri.,  9-1  Sat.,  winter;  half -hour  earlier  in 
summer)  is  the  commission's  museum  containing  items  dating  from  the 
Roanoke  Island  colony,  and  works  of  art,  literature,  sculpture,  manufactur- 
ing, handicraft,  and  commerce,  as  well  as  archives,  and  relics  of  the  wars 
in  which  North  Carolina  has  participated.  There  is  a  copy  of  Canova's  statue 
of  George  Washington.  State  departments  and  commissions  occupy  the  other 
floors. 

4.  The  STATE  AGRICULTURAL  BUILDING  (1923),  NW.  corner  Eden- 
ton and  Halifax  Sts.,  is  a  four-story  limestone  structure  designed  in  the  neo- 
classic  style  with  a  three-story  Ionic  colonnade  above  a  rusticated  first  story. 
Housed  in  an  annex,  built  in  1925,  with  entrance  at  101  Halifax  St.  is  the 
State  Museum  {open  9-5  weekdays),  which  contains  numerous  species  of 
invertebrates,  mammals,  birds,  reptiles,  amphibians,  fishes,  fossil  forms,  min- 
erals, and  plant  life.  The  building  also  contains  offices  of  various  State  de- 
partments and  houses  the  Phifer  collection  of  paintings  of  which  the  North 
Carolina  State  Art  Society  is  custodian. 

5.  The  RICHARD  B.  HAYWOOD  HOUSE  {private),  127  E.  Edenton  St., 
was  built  in  1854  of  bricks  made  by  family  slaves  for  Dr.  Richard  Benehan 
Haywood,  whose  descendants  own  and  occupy  it.  The  rectangular  two-story 
structure  has  a  hip  roof,  four  chimneys,  and  a  four-column  Doric  portico. 
This  house  was  commandeered  during  Federal  occupation  as  headquarters 
for  Maj.  Francis  P.  Blair,  Jr.,  a  classmate  of  Dr.  Haywood  at  the  University 
of  North  Carolina,  and  was  visited  by  Generals  Sherman  and  Grant. 

6.  CHRIST  CHURCH  {Episcopal),  SE.  corner  Edenton  and  Wilmington 
Sts.,  is  probably  the  most  noteworthy  Gothic  Revival  building  in  the  State. 
It  was  designed  by  Richard  Upjohn,  architect  of  Trinity  Church  in  New 
York,  and  erected  between  1848  and  1853.  The  design  is  based  upon  that 
of  an  English  medieval  parish  church.  The  main  block  is  of  local  red-gray 
stone  neatly  squared  and  faced.  Joined  to  it  by  a  three-arched  cloister  is  a 
square  bell  tower  of  gray  stone,  accented  with  darker  red-gray  stone  and 
with  three  levels  of  small  windows.  A  slender  octagonal  spire  tapers  from  the 
tower  to  a  height  of  about  100  feet.  Its  weathercock  is  said  to  be  the  only 
chicken  Sherman's  army  left  in  Raleigh.  The  subdued  interior  is  dominated 
by  the  altar  and  reredos  of  Caen  limestone  carved  in  France.  A  slave  gallery 
extends  across  the  western  end  of  the  nave.  Built  partly  with  slave  labor,  the 
church  replaced  an  1829  structure.  Records  of  the  parish  date  from  its  organi- 


242  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

zation  in  1821.  The  first  rector  was  John  Stark  Ravenscroft,  first  Episcopal 
Bishop  of  North  Carolina. 

The  Parish  House  and  Chapel  of  the  Annunciation  (19 13)  is  con- 
nected by  a  cloistered  walkway  to  the  north  and  east  of  the  church.  Designed 
by  Hobart  Upjohn,  grandson  of  the  church's  architect,  and  constructed  of 
granite  from  the  same  quarry,  it  harmonizes  with  the  old  church. 

The  Rectory  (private),  11  Newbern  Ave.,  oldest  building  of  the  church 
group,  was  erected  about  181 8.  It  is  of  brick  with  granite  lintels  and  sills, 
and  has  double-gallery  porticoes  on  the  east  and  west  elevations,  each  of 
which  has  eight  massive  modified  Doric  columns  in  two  tiers  of  four.  It  was 
originally  constructed  as  the  North  Carolina  State  Bank  and  the  residence  of 
its  president.  The  vault  was  removed  when  the  parish  acquired  the  property 
in  1873. 

7.  The  TREASURER  HAYWOOD  HOUSE  (private),  211  Newbern  Ave., 
was  built  about  1794  by  John  Haywood,  State  treasurer.  It  is  owned  and  occu- 
pied by  his  descendants,  remaining  much  as  it  was  when  built  and  contain- 
ing many  of  the  original  furnishings.  The  house  is  of  Classical  Revival  design, 
finished  with  beaded  weatherboarding.  A  small  double-gallery  entrance 
porch,  with  Doric  columns  and  single  wrought-iron  railings  flanking  the 
steps,  rises  to  a  level  dentiled  cornice  beneath  the  gabled  roof.  There  is  a 
wing  on  the  left  and  two  great  end  chimneys.  Lafayette  dined  here  in  1825. 

8.  The  GOVERNOR'S  MANSION  (telephone  housekeeper  for  appoint- 
ment), 210  N.  Blount  St.,  stands  on  Burke  Square,  which  in  1792  was  sug- 
gested as  a  "proper  situation  for  the  Governor's  house."  The  building  was 
authorized  by  the  assembly  in  1885  and  finished  with  convict  labor  in  1891. 
Gustavus  Adolphus  Bauer,  the  designer,  employed  numerous  gables,  pat- 
terned roof,  paneled  chimneys,  and  lathe-turned  porches  in  the  then-fash- 
ionable Queen  Anne  style.  The  mansion  is  of  red  brick  and  sandstone  with 
broad  marble  entrance  steps.  Spacious  rooms  finished  in  native  pine  contain 
relics  including  a  chair  from  Tryon's  Palace  (see  new  bern),  a  gold-framed 
mirror  and  walnut  sideboard  from  the  Confederate  blockade  runner  Ad- 
Vance,  and  a  silver  service  from  the  U.S.S.  North  Carolina. 

9.  The  HENRY  CLAY  OAK,  North  St.  no  ft.  NW.  of  Blount  St.,  6  feet 
in  diameter,  is  believed  to  be  between  500  and  600  years  old.  Under  this  tree 
in  1844  while  he  was  a  guest  of  Kenneth  Rayner,  Henry  Clay  wrote  the  well- 
known  Raleigh  letter  to  the  National  Intelligencer  which,  because  of  its 
evasive  treatment  of  the  question  of  admitting  Texas  as  a  slave  State,  was  a 
factor  in  his  defeat  for  the  Presidency. 

10.  PEACE,  A  JUNIOR  COLLEGE  FOR  WOMEN,  N.  end  of  Wilmington 
St.,  in  a  10-acre  grove,  was  opened  in  1872  by  the  Rev.  Robert  Burwell  after 
it  had  been  organized  in  1857  as  a  Presbyterian  girls  school  by  the  Rev. 
Joseph  M.  Atkinson  and  William  Peace,  prominent  Raleigh  merchant  who 
donated  the  site.  During  the  War  between  the  States  the  partially  com- 
pleted main  brick  building  was  used  for  a  Confederate  hospital  and  after- 


RALEIGH  243 

wards  housed  a  Freedmen's  Bureau.  Since  1907  the  Presbyterian  Church  of 
North  Carolina  has  owned  and  controlled  the  institution,  which  is  an  ac- 
credited Grade  A  junior  college  and  high  school  with  a  faculty  of  20  and  a 
student  body  of  200. 

11.  The  MORDECAI  HOUSE  {private),  NW.  corner  Wake  Forest  Rd.  and 
Walnut  St.,  is  a  Greek  Revival  mansion  of  heart-pine  timbers  painted  white 
with  green  blinds.  In  1758  Joel  Lane  gave  the  older  portion,  with  its  hand- 
hewn  timbers  and  wooden  pegs,  to  his  son,  Henry.  The  four  front  rooms 
and  the  two-story  columned  portico  as  well  as  the  east  portico  were  added 
in  1824  by  Moses  Mordecai,  whose  descendants  own  and  occupy  it.  Lafayette 
stopped  here  in  1825,  and  in  i860  Gen.  Joseph  Lane  (see  asheville),  grand- 
son of  one  of  Raleigh's  earliest  settiers,  and  then  a  Vice-Presidential  candi- 
date, was  a  guest. 

12.  In  OAKWOOD  CEMETERY,  NE.  corner  Linden  and  Oakwood  Aves., 
are  buried  six  North  Carolina  Governors:  Aycock,  Bragg,  Holden,  Worth, 
Swain,  and  Fowle. 

13.  ST.  AUGUSTINE'S  COLLEGE  (Negro),  NE.  corner  Oakwood  Ave. 
and  Tarboro  Rd.,  was  founded  in  1867  by  the  Episcopal  Church.  Its  20 
buildings  stand  on  a  35-acre  campus.  There  are  300  students  and  22  teachers. 
The  curriculum  includes  a  preparatory  course,  a  four-year  college  course 
leading  to  A.B.  and  B.S.  degrees,  and  the  Bishop  Tuttle  School  of  Religious 
Education  and  Social  Service.  St.  Agnes  Hospital  and  Training  School  is 
affiliated  with  the  college.  According  to  tradition,  Willie  Jones,  commissioner 
for  the  State-at-large  when  Raleigh  was  founded,  and  one  of  the  framers 
of  the  State  constitution,  is  buried  in  an  unmarked  grave  on  the  grounds, 
once  a  part  of  his  plantation. 

14.  NATIONAL  CEMETERY,  SE.  corner  E.  Davie  St.  and  Rock  Quarry 
Rd.,  established  in  1867,  covers  7  acres  and  contains  the  graves  of  1,274 
Union  soldiers,  many  of  whom  were  originally  buried  on  Bentonville  Battle- 
field in  1865  {see  tour  3). 

15.  The  SITE  OF  THE  BIRTHPLACE  OF  ANDREW  JOHNSON,  123 
Fayetteville  St.,  is  indicated  by  a  granite  marker.  At  the  head  of  this  street 
stood  Casso's  Inn,  early  political  meeting  place.  In  the  innyard  was  the  home 
of  Jacob  Johnson,  hosder,  janitor,  and  town  constable,  whose  wife,  Polly,  did 
the  weaving  for  the  inn.  On  Dec.  29,  1808,  when  pretty  Peggy  Casso  was 
attending  her  wedding  ball  in  the  statehouse,  a  little  girl  summoned  her: 
"Come  quickly,  Ma'am!  Polly  the  weaver  wants  you."  Polly  had  a  baby  son 
and  wouldn't  Peggy  name  him?  Dropping  on  her  knees  beside  the  infant, 
she  said:  "I  name  thee,  on  this  my  wedding  night,  Andrew."  Sixteen  years 
later  the  Star  and  North  Carolina  Gazette  advertised  a  reward  of  $10  for 
the  return  of  two  runaway  apprentices,  William  and  Andrew  Johnson, 
brothers.  Andrew  worked  as  a  tailor's  apprentice  at  Carthage  {see  tour  52) 
and  later  settled  in  Tennessee.  On  his  return  to  Raleigh  in  1867,  President 
Johnson  called  first  on  Mrs.  Peggy  Stewart,  his  godmother. 


244  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

16.  The  RICHARD  B.  HARRISON  LIBRARY  (Negro)  {open  2-6  Tues., 
Thurs.,  Fri.;  2-9  Wed.;  1-9  Sat.),  135  E.  Hargett  St.,  was  founded  in  1935 
by  an  interracial  group  and  the  State  Library  Commission,  and  named  for 
the  Negro  actor  (see  Greensboro).  The  library  contains  20,000  volumes. 

17.  The  WAKE  COUNTY  COURTHOUSE,  316  Fayetteville  St.,  stands 
on  property  conveyed  to  the  county  for  5  shillings  by  Theophilus  Hunter  and 
James  Bloodvvorth  in  1795  for  erection  of  a  "large  and  eligant"  wooden 
building.  The  present  courthouse  is  a  rectangular,  four-story  building  of 
granite  and  terra  cotta  designed  in  the  neoclassic  style  with  recessed  loggias 
in  front  and  rear  elevations  fronted  by  Corinthian  columns. 

18.  The  MEMORIAL  AUDITORIUM,  S.  end  of  Fayetteville  St.,  harmonizes 
with  the  Greek  Revival  design  of  the  capitol.  Erected  in  1932  by  the  city  and 
designed  by  Atwood  and  Weeks,  it  memorializes  Wake  County  citizens 
who  served  in  various  wars.  Of  white  brick  and  marble,  it  contains  an  audi- 
torium seating  3,600,  committee  rooms,  banquet  hall,  kitchen,  and  a  fire 
station.  The  ballroom  is  the  scene  of  the  annual  Debutante  Ball  in  September, 
when  young  ladies  from  all  sections  of  the  State  make  their  bows  to  society. 
The  Governors'  inaugural  balls  are  also  held  here. 

19.  SHAW  UNIVERSITY  (Negro,  coeducational),  SE.  corner  E.  South 
and  Wilmington  Sts.,  had  its  beginning  in  December  1865  in  a  theological 
class  for  freedmen  conducted  by  Dr.  Henry  M.  Tupper,  Union  Army  chap- 
lain, and  his  wife.  Chartered  in  1875  under  its  present  name,  the  university 
is  supported  by  the  Negro  State  and  Northern  Baptist  Conventions.  It  has 
400  students  taught  by  a  faculty  of  30,  and  grants  the  degrees  of  A.B.,  B.S., 
B.D.  and  B.S.  in  Home  Economics.  Ten  red  brick  buildings  of  eclectic  design 
occupy  a  25-acre  wooded  campus. 

20.  The  SACRED  HEART  CATHEDRAL,  NW.  corner  Hillsboro  and 
McDowell  Sts.,  was  constructed  in  1924  of  gray  granite  and  designed  in  the 
neo-Gothic  style  with  pointed-arch  windows  and  low  corner  tower.  It  adjoins 
the  residence  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Bishop  of  the  Diocese  of  Raleigh. 

21.  The  ST.  PAUL  A.M.E.  CHURCH,  NW.  corner  Edenton  and  Harring- 
ton Sts.,  originated  in  1849  when  Negro  members  of  Edenton  Street  Meth- 
odist Church  organized  as  the  city's  first  Negro  congregation.  In  1853  they 
acquired  the  old  Christ  Church  building,  which  they  moved  to  this  site  on 
rollers  at  night  amid  singing  and  shouting.  The  present  red  brick,  steepled 
edifice  was  erected  in  1884.  Occasionally  the  topic  of  the  morning  sermon 
is  reenacted  at  night  by  pantomime  dramatizations  that  have  been  compared 
v/ith  early  morality  plays. 

22.  The  JOEL  LANE  HOUSE  (open;  resident  caretaker),  728  W.  Hargett 
St.,  built  before  1771  by  Joel  Lane,  is  the  oldest  house  in  Raleigh,  though 
150  feet  removed  from  its  original  site.  This  Dutch  Colonial  structure  has  a 
gambrel  roof,  dormer  windows,  a  vine-embowered  entrance  stoop,  and  great 
end  chimneys.  The  rear  wing  is  a  later  addition  and  the  whole  has  been 


RALEIGH  245 

remodeled.  Refurnished  in  the  style  of  its  period,  the  house  serves  as  head- 
quarters for  the  Wake  County  Committee  of  the  Colonial  Dames. 

23.  ST.  MARY'S  SCHOOL,  900  Hillsboro  St.,  founded  in  1842  by  the  Rev. 
Aldert  Smedes,  was  conducted  successively  by  him  and  his  son,  the  Rev.  Ben- 
nett Smedes,  as  an  Episcopal  school  for  young  ladies  until  1897,  when  it  was 
acquired  by  the  Episcopal  Church.  St.  Mary's,  the  largest  Episcopal  high 
school  and  junior  college  in  the  United  States,  is  fully  accredited  and  has  a 
student  body  of  200  and  a  faculty  of  20.  On  the  shady  20-acre  campus  are 
14  buildings  connected  by  covered  ways.  Smedes  Hall,  the  main  building, 
is  a  substantial  red  brick  structure  with  white  columned  portico  and  broad 
steps,  flanked  by  wistaria-covered  East  and  West  Rock  Buildings.  The  little 
frame  cruciform  Chapel,  with  a  hooded  entrance,  was  designed  by  Richard 
Upjohn.  Ravenscroft,  802  Hillsboro  St.,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  grove,  is  the 
residence  of  the  Episcopal  Bishop  of  the  Diocese  of  North  Caroina. 

24.  CONFEDERATE  BREASTWORKS,  E.  of  11 15  Hillsboro  St.,  marked 
by  a  line  of  young  trees,  were  erected  in  1865  for  defense  of  the  town,  though 
never  used.  The  earthen  battlements  are  well  preserved. 

25.  PULLEN  PARK,  approached  from  Hillsboro  St.  and  from  the  Western 
Outlet  (US  1-70),  was  established  in  1887  on  80  acres  by  R.  Stanhope  Pullen. 
The  tract  has  been  enlarged,  with  Federal  aid,  into  a  picnic  and  recreation 
ground  with  public  swimming  pool  and  playground  facilities. 

26.  The  NORTH  CAROLINA  STATE  COLLEGE  OF  AGRICULTURE 
AND  ENGINEERING  OF  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  NORTH  CARO- 
LINA {buildings  open  during  school  hours  unless  otherwise  noted),  Hills- 
boro St.  at  Oberlin  Rd.,  has  40  buildings  in  a  30-acre  campus.  College  prop- 
erty includes  35  acres  in  orchards  and  gardens,  15  acres  in  poultry  yards,  and 
400  acres  in  a  nearby  experiment  farm.  The  plant  is  valued  at  $5,300,000. 
Six  additional  experimental  test  farms  are  maintained  in  different  parts  of 
the  State  in  cooperation  with  the  State  Department  of  Agriculture. 

With  a  teaching  staff  of  256,  the  college  annually  enrolls  about  2,150  resi- 
dent students  and  offers  undergraduate  and  graduate  training  for  technical, 
scientific,  and  professional  service  in  36  vocations.  It  includes  the  Schools  of 
Agriculture,  Engineering,  Science,  Textile  Arts,  and  the  Summer  School. 
The  college  also  has  an  extension  service  with  2,700  students  enrolled  in 
correspondence  and  night  classes,  and  a  Department  of  Home  Demonstration. 
A  unit  of  the  Reserve  Officers'  Training  Corps  gives  four  years  instruction 
in  military  science  and  tactics. 

Opened  in  1889  as  the  North  Carolina  College  of  Agriculture  and  Me- 
chanic Arts,  the  college  was  established  through  the  efforts  of  the  Watauga 
Club,  an  organization  of  Raleigh  young  men  interested  in  the  establishment 
of  an  industrial  school,  and  Col.  L.  L.  Polk,  whose  Progressive  Farmer 
sponsored  a  farmers'  movement  for  an  agricultural  college.  One  of  the  first 
buildings,  Holladay  Hall  (1888),  named  for  the  first  president,  serves  as 
the  administration  building.  It  was  erected  on  land  donated  by  R.  Stanhope 
Pullen  and   accommodated   the  original  student   body   of  72   and  their   8 


246  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

teachers.  In  19 17  the  name  was  changed  to  North  Carolina  State  College  of 
Agriculture  and  Engineering.  In  1932  it  became  a  unit  of  the  Greater  Uni- 
versity {see  chapel  hill),  but  through  all  these  changes  it  has  been  popu- 
larly referred  to  as  State  College. 

Since  1926  the  Engineers  Fair  has  been  an  annual  spring  event,  open  to 
the  public,  sponsored  by  the  Engineering  Council,  a  student  organization. 
The  fair  exhibits  engineering  models,  charts,  and  devices. 

Dominating  the  Hillsboro  Street  campus  entrance  is  the  War  Memorial, 
a  116-foot  campanile  of  white  Mount  Airy  granite,  designed  by  William 
Henry  Deacy,  begun  by  alumni  in  1921  as  a  monument  to  the  33  State  Col- 
lege men  who  lost  their  lives  in  the  World  War,  and  completed  in  1937  with 
Federal  aid. 

The  D.  H.  Hill  Library  {open  8:30  a.m.-ioi^o  p.m.  weekdays)  is  a 
domed  and  colonnaded  red  brick  structure  in  the  Federal  style,  designed  by 
Hobart  Upjohn.  It  was  erected  in  1926  and  named  for  the  third  president  of 
the  college.  Modern  murals  adorn  the  rotunda.  The  library  contains  35,000 
bound  volumes  and  much  unbound  material.  The  Frank  Thompson  Gym- 
nasium (1924)  has  accommodations  for  2,500  at  indoor  contests,  and  Riddick 
Stadium  seats  15,000,  or  20,000  with  temporary  stands. 

On  the  campus  is  the  Andrew  Johnson  House  {admission  upon  applica- 
tion to  \eeper),  a  tiny,  gambrel-roof  frame  structure,  the  birthplace  (1808) 
of  the  17th  President  of  the  United  States.  It  was  removed  from  its  original 
site  on  Fayetteville  Street  to  Pullen  Park,  and  in  1937  was  moved  here. 

27.  The  STATE  SCHOOL  FOR  THE  BLIND  {admission  upon  applica- 
tion at  superintendent' s  office},  coeducational,  S.  end  Ashe  Ave.,  occupies  a 
dozen  buildings  on  a  100-acre  tract.  Established  in  1845,  it  was  removed  to  its 
present  site  in  1923. 

28.  CENTRAL  PRISON  {no  visitors  except  prisoners'  relatives'),  W.  end  of 
Morgan  St.,  authorized  by  the  general  assembly  in  1869,  is  a  battlemented 
structure  that  required  14  years  to  erect.  Its  12-acre  area  is  surrounded  by  a 
gray  granite  wall.  The  prison  contains  the  only  lethal  gas  execution  chamber 
east  of  the  Mississippi. 

29.  The  STATE  HOSPITAL  FOR  THE  INSANE  (DIX  HILL)  {grounds 
open),  Boylan  Dr.  at  Boylan  Ave.,  was  authorized  in  1848  by  the  general 
assembly  at  the  instigation  of  Dorothea  Lynde  Dix.  The  site  she  selected  is  a 
forested  tract  of  1,248  acres.  The  main  building,  designed  in  the  Gothic 
Revival  style  by  Alexander  Jackson  Davis,  was  opened  in  1856. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  ENVIRONS 

Meredith  College,  3.5  m.,  Method,  Negro  rural  community,  4  m.,  State  Fair  Grounds 
and  highway  shops,  5  m.,  Cary,  birthplace  of  Walter  Hines  Page,  author  and  Ambassador 
to  the  Court  of  St.  James's,  8  m.,  Crabtree  Creek  Park,  National  recreation  and  demon- 
stration area,  11  m.  (see  tour  yb);  State  College  Experiment  Farm,  3  m.,  State  School 
for  Negro  Deaf  and  Blind,  3  m.,  State  Forest  Nursery,  7  m.,  Nancy  Jones  House,  where 
the  Governor  of  North  Carolina  made  his  observation  ("It's  a  long  time  between 
drinks")  to  the  Governor  of  South  Carolina,  10  m.   (see  tour  28). 


WILMINGTON 


Railroad  Stations:  Union  Station,  Redcross  and  Front  Sts.,  for  Atlantic  Coast  Line  R.R.; 
end  of  Brunswick.  St.  for  Seaboard  Air  Line  R.R. 

Bus  Station:  SW.  corner  2nd  and  Walnut  Sts.,  for  Seashore  Transportation,  Queen  City 
Coach,  and  Atlantic  Greyhound. 

Airport:  County-owned,  3  m.  N.  on  US  117,  1  m.  E.  on  Airport  Rd.;  no  scheduled  service. 

Taxis:  25^. 

City  Buses:  Fare  S<t;  Carolina  Beach  25^. 

Piers:  Ann  St.  for  line  to  Norfolk,  Baltimore,  and  Philadelphia;  freight,  occasional  pas- 
sengers. 

Traffic  Regulations:  Right  turn  on  red  lights  from  right  lane;  no  parking  on  streets, 
1   a.m.  to  6  a.m.;  30-min.  parking  in  restricted  zones. 

Accommodations:  4  hotels;  boarding  houses  and  tourist  homes  in  city  and  at  nearby 
beaches.  Free  tourist  campground,  Greenfield  Park,  N.  bank  of  Greenfield  Lake. 

Information  Service:  Chamber  of  Commerce  and  Carolina  Motor  Club,  both  in  Cape  Fear 
Hotel,  2nd  and  Chestnut  Sts. 

Radio  Station:  WMFD   (1370  kc). 

Theaters  and  Motion   Picture  Houses:  Thalian  Hall   in  City  Hall,  NE.  corner  3rd  and 

Princess  Sts.,  occasional  road  shows,  local  productions;  3  motion  picture  houses. 
Swimming:  Greenfield  Lake,  S.  end  of  3rd  St. 

Golf:  Municipal  Golf  Course,  4  m.  E.  on  US  74-76,  18  holes,  greens  fee,  50^. 
Tennis:  Pembroke  Jones  Park,  Market  and  14th  Sts.;  Wallace  Park,  Market  and  21st  Sts.; 

Robert  Strange  Playground,  8th  and  Nun  Sts.;  Greenfield  Lake  Park. 
Hunting  and  Fishing:  Inquire  Chamber  of  Commerce. 

Annual  Events:  Old  Christmas  celebration,  Jan.  6;  Easter  Carols;  Wilmington  Light 
Infantry  outing,  Wrightsville  Beach,  May  20;  Municipal  Christmas  Tree. 

WILMINGTON  (32  alt.,  32,270  pop.),  seat  of  New  Hanover  County,  is  a 
river  port  city  at  the  head  of  a  narrow  peninsula  between  Cape  Fear  River  and 
the  Atlantic  Ocean,  30  miles  from  the  river  mouth.  The  city,  with  a  history 
of  more  than  two  centuries,  is  in  a  region  noted  for  the  variety  of  its  vege- 
tation. 

The  river  is  so  thickly  lined  with  piers  and  warehouses  that  it  is  visible 
only  at  street  ends  and  at  the  customhouse  wharf.  Several  residential  streets 
have  landscaped  parkways  where  palmettos  grow  in  profusion.  Fine  old 
homes,  many  surrounded  by  informal  gardens  and  some  inclosed  by  high 
walls,  are  sheltered  by  oaks,  maples,  and  magnolias.  Fountains  and  monu- 
ments mark  many  street  intersections.  Negro  homes  are  scattered  about  the 
city  near  the  industrial  plants,  though  a  few  are  in  better  sections. 

The  city  bustles  with  activity  on  weekdays.  White  and  Negro  hucksters 
cry  their  wares  in  the  early  morning  on  residential  streets  and  Negro  steve- 
dores sing  work  songs  on  the  docks  as  they  handle  cotton,  sugar,  and  odorous 
fertilizer.  Saturday  brings  a  horde  of  farmers  from  outlying  farms.  The  peal 

247 


240  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

of  many  church  bells  breaks  the  Sunday  calm.  In  summer,  tourists  throng 
the  streets,  en  route  to  and  from  nearby  beaches. 

Before  the  advent  of  the  white  man,  Indians  traveled,  fished,  and  fought  on 
Cape  Fear  River.  The  first  Barbadian  settlers  came  in  1665  and  by  1725  the 
first  permanent  plantations  had  been  established.  For  years  the  river  was  the 
only  means  of  communication,  social  and  commercial.  Every  home  of  con- 
sequence had  its  barge  and  a  crew  of  Negro  slave  oarsmen. 

Wilmington  dates  from  1730  when  English  yeomen  built  log  shacks  on  a 
bluff  east  of  the  junction  of  the  Northeast  and  Northwest  Branches  of  the 
river.  The  settlement,  called  New  Liverpool,  shortly  admitted  colonists  from 
the  lower  peninsula,  who  sought  protection  from  pirates  and  better  harbor 
facilities.  In  1733  John  Watson  obtained  a  grant  of  640  acres  adjoining  New 
Liverpool  and  called  the  place  New  Town  (or  Newton).  Gov.  Gabriel  John- 
ston, in  1734,  changed  the  name  to  honor  his  patron,  Spencer  Compton,  Earl 
of  Wilmington,  and  the  town  became  a  commercial  center.  In  1745  the  as- 
sembly authorized  the  building  of  Fort  Johnston  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
as  a  protection  against  Spanish  pirates;  it  was  completed  in  1764. 

Resentment  against  the  Stamp  Act  reached  a  climax  in  Wilmington  in 
1765  when  the  funeral  rites  of  Liberty  were  performed  on  Market  Street. 
The  resignation  of  the  stamp  master  was  demanded  and  obtained.  At  Bruns- 
wick {see  tour  iC)  His  Majesty's  Ship  Diligence  was  prevented  from  land- 
ing the  obnoxious  stamps. 

Patriotism  flamed  during  the  Revolution  among  such  residents  of  Wilming- 
ton as  Cornelius  Harnett,  statesman;  Gen.  Robert  Howe,  trusted  friend  of 
Washington;  and  William  Hooper,  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independ- 
ence. Following  the  Battle  of  Guilford  Courthouse,  Cornwallis  occupied  the 
town,  June  29,  1781,  and  conducted  numerous  raids  in  the  vicinity  before 
starting  on  his  march  to  Yorktown. 

Innes  Academy  was  established  in  1783,  with  funds  bequeathed  by  Col. 
James  Innes  "For  the  use  of  a  free  school."  In  1804  the  Bank  of  Cape  Fear 
was  incorporated.  Women  of  the  town  organized  the  Female  Benevolent 
Society  in  1817.  After  a  slave  uprising  in  1831,  six  of  the  leaders  were  tried 
and  hanged. 

During  the  War  between  the  States,  the  town,  protected  by  Forts  Fisher, 
Caswell,  and  Johnston  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  was  the  chief  port  of  entry 
for  Confederate  blockade  runners.  In  1862  they  brought  in  yellow  fever  from 
Nassau,  causing  hundreds  of  deaths.  When  forts  and  town  fell  to  Union 
forces  in  January  1865,  the  fate  of  the  southern  cause  was  sealed,  for  Wilming- 
ton was  the  last  port  in  use  by  the  Confederacy.  Disastrous  fires  during  and 
after  the  war  destroyed  many  homes,  churches,  and  warehouses. 

The  Wilmington  Star,  North  Carolina's  oldest  daily  newspaper,  was 
founded  Sept.  23,  1867,  by  Maj.  William  H.  Bernard,  and  has  had  a  continu- 
ous existence  since  that  date.  In  1875  Government  engineers,  under  Henry 
Bacon,  closed  New  Inlet,  which  had  been  deepened  by  a  hurricane  in  1871, 
thus  saving  Wilmington's  harbor  by  insuring  a  sufficient  depth  over  the  main 
bar.  The  dam  is  known  as  the  Rocks. 

Under  a  carpetbag  administration  the  surviving  institutions  of  disfranchised 
white  citizens  were  steadily  undermined,  though  the  Democrats  regained 


WILMINGTON  249 

control  in  1876.  In  1895  a  fusion  of  Republicans  and  Populists  acquired 
control  and  elected  or  appointed  several  Negroes  to  municipal  offices.  Resent- 
ful whites  organized  a  clan  called  the  Red  Shirts,  who,  in  the  election  of 
1898,  so  intimidated  Negro  voters  that  the  Democrats  won  a  sweeping  vic- 
tory. A  few  days  later  (Nov.  10)  the  Red  Shirts  compelled  the  resignation 
of  all  Negro  officeholders.  The  mayor  and  councilmen  were  forced  to  resign 
and  elect  successors  named  by  the  Red  Shirts.  A  Negro  printing  office 
was  burned.  A  Negro  shot  and  killed  a  white  man,  general  gunfire  started, 
and  20  or  more  Negroes  were  slain.  This  action  presaged  final  recov- 
ery of  the  State  administration  by  the  Democratic  party  and  restriction  of 
the  franchise  for  Negroes,  eliminating  their  influence  in  North  Carolina 
politics. 

Until  19 10  Wilmington  was  the  largest  city  in  North  Carolina.  The  shallow 
channel  and  the  distance  from  the  sea  limited  its  development,  and  its  indus- 
try and  trade  failed  to  match  the  more  spirited  stride  of  inland  cities.  During 
the  World  War  three  shipyards  were  built  here  by  the  United  States  Gov- 
ernment and  several  vessels  were  launched  for  naval  duty.  Deepening  of  the 
channel  brought  a  resurgence  of  trade  to  the  city.  Oil  companies  built  ter- 
minals and  chemical  industries  were  established  to  extract  bromine  from  sea 
water.  One  of  the  largest  cotton  compresses  in  the  United  States  is  located 
here.  Fertilizer  plants  produce  about  400,000  tons  annually.  Other  industries 
include  lumber  mills,  creosoting  plants,  and  a  shirt  factory. 

The  harbor  handles  more  than  a  million  tons  of  cargo  annually  and  port 
revenue  collections  exceed  $12,000,000  a  year.  The  controlling  depth  is  30 
feet  over  the  ocean  bar  and  29  feet  in  the  river  channels,  with  a  30-foot  depth 
in  the  anchorage  basin.  The  city  is  accessible  to  the  Intracoastal  Waterway 
through  the  Cape  Fear  River,  where  at  the  old  Liberty  Shipyard  property, 
there  is  a  free  yacht  basin.  Wilmington  is  an  important  railroad  center,  with 
the  general  offices  of  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line  and  division  headquarters  for 
the  Seaboard  Air  Line. 

The  Thalian  Association,  one  of  the  earliest  theatrical  organizations  in 
North  Carolina,  was  formed  prior  to  1800.  The  group  was  revived  in  1814, 
and  again  in  1846,  continuing  until  the  War  between  the  States.  A  little 
theater  group,  formed  in  1929,  assumed  the  old  name.  Full-length  plays  are 
presented,  including  the  works  of  members.  Jews  of  the  city  maintain  a 
social  center  called  Harmony  Circle.  The  Brigade  Boys  Club,  outgrowth  of  a 
semimilitary  organization  known  as  the  Boys  Brigade,  maintains  a  library 
and  gymnasium,  and  conducts  a  character-building  program  for  Wilmington 
youth. 

The  bulk  of  the  city's  13,106  Negroes,  40  percent  of  the  total  population, 
are  employed  at  manual  and  domestic  labor,  though  many  are  engaged  in 
the  skilled  trades  and  a  few  are  represented  in  the  professions. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  THE  U.  S.  CUSTOMHOUSE,  Water  St.  between  Princess  and  Market 
Sts.,  stretches  the  length  of  a  city  block.  Designed  by  James  A.  Wetmore  and 
built  in  1914-16  of  natural  sandstone,  its  three  stories  are  marked  by  classic 


25O  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

simplicity.  A  recessed  court  between  the  end  wings  on  the  river  elevation 
forms  a  gardened  esplanade  with  fountain,  trees,  flowers,  and  stone  benches, 
fronted  by  a  massive  balustrade.  From  the  wharf,  where  the  U.  S.  Coast 
Guard  cutter  Modoc  docks,  there  is  a  wide  view  of  the  river.  Across  the 
river  on  the  Eagle  Island  shore  is  the  Site  of  Berry's  Shipyard,  also  called 
the  Confederate  Navy  Yard,  where  in  1862  the  ironclad  North  Carolina  was 
built.  Upstream  the  water  front  is  crowded  with  docks  and  warehouses 
served  by  railroad  tracks.  Within  this  area  are  cotton  compress  plants  and 
facilities  for  handling  the  export  and  import  trade.  Downstream  are  more 
docks  and  warehouses  for  cotton,  chemical,  cooperage  and  other  concerns.  A 
mile  to  the  south,  on  a  point  jutting  into  the  river,  is  the  Dram  Tree,  an 
ancient  cypress.  Tradition  relates  that  in  ante-bellum  days,  ships'  crews  in- 
dulged in  a  dram  of  rum  as  their  craft  passed  the  point.  Farther  south  are 
the  tanks  of  the  oil  companies,  which  annually  distribute  millions  of  gallons 
of  petroleum  products. 

2.  The  SITE  OF  THE  OLD  COURTHOUSE,  NE.  corner  Front  and  Mar- 
ket Sts.,  occupied  by  business  structures,  where  on  Nov.  16,  1765,  Dr.  William 
Houston,  the  royal  stamp  master,  was  forced  to  vacate  his  office,  is  indicated 
by  a  marker  that  also  recalls  the  action  of  militia  in  preventing  the  landing 
of  stamped  paper  and  the  defense  pledge  adopted  by  citizens  of  the  county 
on  June  19,  1775. 

3.  The  SITE  OF  CONFEDERATE  HEADQUARTERS,  NW.  corner  Mar- 
ket and  3rd  Sts.,  occupied  by  an  automobile  service  station,  is  indicated  by  a 
marker.  This  was  the  military  center  when  Wilmington  was  a  strategic  port 
as  the  "life  line  of  the  Confederacy."  John  C.  Calhoun,  Secretary  of  War,  on 
Apr.  12,  1 819,  was  entertained  in  the  old  building,  which  was  torn  down 
during  the  World  War. 

4.  The  GEORGE  DAVIS  MONUMENT,  Market  and  3rd  Sts.,  memorializ- 
ing the  Confederate  States  Senator  and  Attorney  General,  is  a  heroic  por- 
trait statue  of  bronze  on  a  granite  pedestal,  executed  by  Francis  Herman 
Packer  and  erected  in  191 1. 

5.  The  CORNWALLIS  HOUSE  {private),  SW.  corner  Market  and  3rd 
Sts.,  is  State  headquarters  of  the  North  Carolina  Society  of  Colonial  Dames, 
who  plan  (1939)  to  establish  a  museum  of  Colonial  relics  in  the  building. 
The  two-story,  white,  weatherboarded  structure,  shaded  by  huge  magnolias, 
is  believed  to  have  been  built  in  the  1770's.  The  roof  is  gabled  and  the  front 
porches  are  carried  on  two  superimposed  ranges  of  Ionic  columns.  The  cen- 
tral bay  of  the  colonnade,  slightly  wider  than  the  rest,  is  surmounted  by  a 
pediment.  The  first  floor  of  the  house  is  raised  well  above  the  ground  on  a 
high  latticed  basement.  The  double  cellars  have  apartments  locally  referred 
to  as  dungeons.  Tradition  tells  of  a  tunnel  that  led  two  blocks  west  to  the 
river.  Cornwallis  maintained  his  headquarters  here  while  in  possession  of  the 
city  in  1781.  The  original  floor  boards  bear  marks  reputedly  made  by  British 
muskets. 


WILMINGTON  251 

6.  ST.  JAMES  CHURCH  {Episcopal),  SE.  corner  3rd  and  Market  Sts.,  of 
Gothic  Revival  design,  T.  U.  Walter,  architect,  was  erected  in  1839  near  the 
site  of  an  earlier  church  built  in  1751.  The  parish  was  founded  in  1735.  The 
building  rests  on  a  raised  foundation  wall  extending  to  the  high  stone  steps 
of  the  front  entrance.  A  transept  was  added  in  1879.  Until  the  War  between 
the  States  the  interior  had  galleries  around  three  sides  of  the  nave  "for  the 
use  of  our  people  of  color."  The  wooden  altar  and  reredos  were  carved  by 
Silas  McBee  and  his  sister,  of  Sewanee,  Tenn.  The  church  was  used  for  a 
hospital  during  Union  occupation  of  the  town. 

In  the  vestry  room  hangs  a  painting  of  the  head  of  Christ,  Ecce  Homo 
(Behold  the  Man),  artist  unknown,  taken  from  a  captured  Spanish  ship  that 
attempted  to  seize  the  town  of  Brunswick  in  1748.  Other  booty  from  the  ship 
was  sold  and  the  proceeds  contributed  to  the  building  funds  of  St.  Philip's, 
Brunswick,  and  St.  James.  For  generations  children  of  the  parish  have  greeted 
the  rising  Easter  sun  with  carols  sung  from  the  tower  of  St.  James  above  the 
belfry. 

In  the  Churchyard  is  the  grave  of  Cornelius  Harnett  (1723-81),  member 
of  13  Colonial  assemblies,  deputy  provisional  grand  master  of  the  Masonic 
order  in  North  America,  and  delegate  to  the  Continental  Congress.  He  wrote 
the  clause  for  religious  freedom  in  the  constitution  of  North  Carolina.  Here 
also  is  the  grave  of  Thomas  Godfrey  (1736-63),  author  of  the  Prince  of 
Parthia,  the  first  drama  written  by  a  native  American  and  produced  on  the 
professional  stage.  It  was  published  in  1765  and  produced  in  Philadelphia  in 
1767. 

7.  The  NEW  HANOVER  COUNTY  COURTHOUSE,  SE.  corner  3rd  and 
Princess  Sts.,  was  built  in  1892  of  red  brick  with  white  granite  trim.  The 
annex,  erected  in  1925,  is  of  white  granite  in  Georgian  design.  On  the  3rd 
floor  is  the  New  Hanover  County  Museum  {open  3-5  Wed.  and  Fri.),  con- 
taining a  collection  of  early  Wilmingtoniana,  Oriental  curios,  geological  speci- 
mens, Confederate  and  World  War  relics. 


Key  to  Wilmington  Map 

1.  The  U.  S.  Customhouse.  2.  The  Site  of  the  Old  Courthouse.  3.  The  site  of  the 
Confederate  Headquarters.  4.  The  George  Davis  Monument.  5.  The  Cornwallis  House. 
6.  St.  James  Church.  7.  The  New  Hanover  County  Courthouse.  8.  The  City  Hall. 
9.  The  Cornelius  Harnett  Monument.  10.  The  Hebrew  Temple,  n.  The  Wilmington 
Light  Infantry  Armory.  12.  The  Bellamy  Mansion.  13.  The  Hugh  McRae  House. 
14.  St.  Mary's  Cathedral.  15.  The  Council  Tree.  16.  The  Site  of  the  Birthplace  of 
Ann  Whistler.  17.  The  First  Presbyterian  Church.  18.  The  Dudley  Mansion.  19.  The 
Confederate  Memorial.  20.  St.  Thomas  Church.  21.  The  DeRossett  House.  22.  Hilton 
Park.  23.  Oakdale  Cemetery.  24.  The  United  States  National  Cemetery.  25.  Green- 
field Park. 

a.  Post  Office,  b.  Union  Station,  c.  Seaboard  Air  Line  Station,  d.  Union  Bus  Station. 
e.  Chamber  of  Commerce,  f.  Cape  Fear  Twin  Bridges,  g.  Airport,  h.  Yacht  Basin. 
1.  Pembroke  Jones  Park.  k.  Robert  Strange  Playground,  l.  Cape  Fear  Country  Club. 
m.  Municipal  Golf  Course. 


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254  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

8.  The  CITY  HALL,  NE.  corner  3rd  and  Princess  Sts.,  built  in  1855,  has 
18-inch  walls  surfaced  with  cream  stucco  and  is  fronted  by  a  Corinthian 
portico.  Besides  housing  municipal  offices  the  building  contains  Thalian 
Hall,  an  auditorum  seating  1,000,  and  the  Wilmington  Public  Library 
{open  10-9  weekdays  except  June  i-Sept.  1,  9-5),  with  25,000  volumes. 

9.  The  CORNELIUS  HARNETT  MONUMENT,  E.  Market  and  4th  Sts., 
is  a  white  marble  obelisk  erected  by  the  North  Carolina  Society  of  Colonial 
Dames  in  honor  of  the  Revolutionary  statesman. 

10.  The  HEBREW  TEMPLE,  SE.  corner  E.  Market  and  4th  Sts.,  built  in 
1875,  is  the  first  temple  erected  by  Jews  in  North  Carolina.  The  design  is 
based  upon  Oriental  tradition,  employing  Saracenic  detail. 

11.  The  WILMINGTON  LIGHT  INFANTRY  ARMORY,  Market  St. 
between  4th  and  5th  Sts.,  a  two-story  structure  of  pressed  brick  and  marble, 
built  in  1852,  served  as  a  residence  until  acquired  by  the  Wilmington  Light 
Infantry  in  1892.  Fixtures  include  a  built-in  stove  and  wall  safe.  There  are 
remnants  of  a  tunnel  that  once  connected  the  basement  with  the  old  Corn- 
wallis  House. 

The  company  was  organized  in  1858  and  equipped  by  Jefferson  Davis, 
Secretary  of  War  under  President  Pierce.  During  the  War  between  the  States 
the  unit  occupied  Forts  Johnston  and  Caswell.  In  the  World  War  its  members 
were  assigned  to  various  regiments. 

12.  The  BELLAMY  MANSION  (private),  NE.  corner  E.  Market  and  5th 
Sts.,  used  by  the  North  Carolina  Society  of  Colonial  Dames  for  assembly 
rooms,  is  an  example  of  Greek  Revival  architecture.  It  was  designed  by 
James  F.  Post  and  built  in  1859.  A  massive  Corinthian  portico  borders  three 
sides  of  the  wooden  structure.  The  wide  entrance  door  with  its  segmental, 
pedimented  heading,  is  carved  in  a  design  of  roses  and  leaves.  The  front 
yard  is  enclosed  by  an  elaborate  cast-iron  fence.  During  Union  occupation 
Federal  troops  maintained  offices  in  the  building. 

13.  The  HUGH  MacRAE  HOUSE  (private),  E.  Market  St.  between  7th 
and  8th  Sts.,  a  Gothic  Revival  house  designed  in  the  style  of  a  Tudor  baronial 
castle,  was  built  about  1850  by  James  Post  and  remodeled  in  1902  by  Henry 
Bacon,  designer  of  the  Lincoln  Memorial  in  the  Capital.  The  ivy-clad  brick 
building  with  brown  stucco  and  stone  trim  has  two  main  stories,  a  basement, 
an  attic,  and  a  flat  roof  with  low  battlements.  Beneath  the  main  cornice  are 
a  series  of  pointed  arches.  The  south  elevation  has  a  conservatory  with 
wrought-iron  supports  surmounted  with  a  wrought-iron  balustrade.  The 
yard  is  enclosed  by  a  wrought-iron  fence  with  wide  gates,  designed  by  Bacon, 
at  both  north  and  south  carriage  entrances.  During  the  War  between  the 
States  the  house  was  used  by  Federal  troops  as  a  hospital. 

14.  ST.  MARY'S  CATHEDRAL  (Roman  Catholic),  NW.  corner  Ann  and 
5th  Sts.,  of  Spanish  Renaissance  design,  is  the  work  of  Rafael  Guastavino, 


WILMINGTON  255 

built  (1912-13)  under  the  supervision  of  Rafael  Guastavino,  Jr.  Graceful 
towers  flank  the  front  entrance  and  a  dome  spans  the  main  section  of  the 
glazed-brick  building.  The  interior  walls  are  decorated  with  mosaic  figures 
of  the  saints  in  varicolored  tile.  The  stained-glass  windows  were  made  by 
Franz  Meyer  in  Munich,  Germany. 

15.  The  COUNCIL  TREE,  near  SE.  corner  4th  and  Ann  Sts.,  is  a  great  oak, 
which  in  1740  marked  the  town  boundary  and  under  whose  shade,  tradition 
relates,  were  held  political  and  other  gatherings. 

16.  The  SITE  OF  THE  BIRTHPLACE  OF  ANN  WHISTLER,  mother  of 
the  artist,  James  Abbott  McNeill  Whistler,  SW.  corner  4th  and  Orange  Sts., 
is  occupied  by  a  residence. 

17.  The  FIRST  PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCH,  NE.  corner  3rd  and  Orange 
Sts.,  was  erected  in  1928  after  a  design  by  Hobart  Upjohn.  The  body  of  the 
church,  granite  with  limestone  trim,  is  English  Gothic  with  a  clerestory. 
The  front  with  its  spire  suggests  the  French  Gothic,  particularly  the  Cathe- 
dral at  Chartres,  while  the  brick  Sunday  school  building  is  Tudor.  The 
structure  replaced  an  earlier  church  on  the  same  site  whose  onetime  pastor, 
the  Rev.  Joseph  Ruggles  Wilson,  was  the  father  of  Woodrow  Wilson.  A 
mosaic  tablet  in  the  vestibule  memorializes  the  28th  President,  who,  as  a  boy, 
was  a  member. 

18.  The  DUDLEY  MANSION  (private),  SW.  corner  Front  and  Nun  Sts., 
was  constructed  between  1830  and  1835  of  red  brick,  since  painted  white.  It 
is  designed  in  the  Federal  style.  The  two-story  main  block  of  the  house 
is  flanked  by  recessed  wings.  Twin  stone  steps,  with  iron  railings,  rise  to  a 
small  landing  in  front  of  the  porticoed,  fanlighted  doorway.  At  the  rear  is 
a  two-story  conservatory,  from  which  stone  steps  lead  to  the  garden,  terraced 
broadly  down  to  the  water's  edge.  An  iron  railing  mounted  on  brownstone 
marks  the  Front  Street  entrance.  Around  the  house  are  luxuriant  palmettos. 
This  was  originally  the  home  of  Edward  B.  Dudley,  Governor  of  North 
Carolina  (1836-41),  participant  in  one  version  of  the  famous  "It's  a  long 
time  between  drinks"  anecdote.  In  1847  Governor  Dudley  entertained  Daniel 
Webster  here.  In  1909  President  William  H.  Taft  was  the  guest  of  James 
Sprunt,  who  owned  the  house  at  that  time. 

19.  The  CONFEDERATE  MEMORIAL,  3rd  and  Dock  Sts.,  designed  by 
Francis  H.  Packer,  is  a  bronze  group  of  soldiers  in  bas-relief  set  against  pol- 
ished white  granite. 

20.  ST.  THOMAS  CHURCH,  Dock  St.  near  2nd,  now  a  Roman  Catho- 
lic mission  and  school  for  Negroes,  conducted  by  the  Sisters  of  Mercy,  was 
built  in  1845  as  St.  Thomas  Pro-Cathedral.  James  Cardinal  Gibbons  was  an 
early  priest.  Upon  completion  of  the  new  cathedral  in  1913,  St.  Thomas  was 
given  to  the  Negroes  by  the  white  congregation.  The  building  is  of  brown- 
stone  with  buttressed  sides  and  a  battlemented  roof. 


256  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

2r.  The  DeROSSETT  HOUSE  (private),  NE.  corner  2nd  and  Dock  Sts., 
believed  to  have  been  designed  by  James  Post,  was  built  about  1840.  It  is  of 
modified  Georgian  Colonial  design  with  a  facade  of  fluted  Doric  columns  and 
a  hip  roof  crowned  with  a  cupola.  The  terraced  garden  is  surrounded  by  a 
6-foot  openwork  brick  wall. 

22.  HILTON  PARK,  N.  end  of  4th  St.  at  the  river,  occupies  the  site  of  the 
former  estate  of  Cornelius  Harnett.  The  one  remaining  wing  of  the  Harnett 
House  serves  as  a  mill  office.  The  3-acre  park  was  named  for  William 
Hilton,  Cape  Fear  explorer.  Here  is  what  is  claimed  to  be  the  World's 
Largest  Christmas  Tree,  a  live  oak  festooned  with  moss,  70  feet  in  height, 
15  feet  in  circumference  at  the  base,  its  limbs  spreading  115  feet.  The  tree  is 
decorated  for  the  Christmas  season. 

23.  OAKDALE  CEMETERY,  N.  end  of  15th  St.,  shaded  with  live  oaks 
draped  with  Spanish  moss,  is  brightened  in  the  spring  by  dogwood  blooms. 
Dr.  W.  W.  Wilkings,  the  last  man  killed  in  a  political  duel  in  North  Caro- 
lina (1857)  is  buried  here.  The  gravestone  of  Henry  Bacon,  also  buried  here, 
was  designed  by  his  brother,  who  copied  a  pattern  of  honeysuckle  buds  that 
Henry  Bacon  had  admired  in  Egypt. 

A  marble  cross  marks  the  Grave  of  Mrs.  Rose  O'Neill  Greenhow,  a 
Confederate  spy.  As  a  leader  in  Washington  society  she  obtained  and  trans- 
mitted military  information  to  southern  commanders.  Her  message  revealing 
the  Federal  order  for  McDowell's  advance  on  Manassas  is  credited  with  en- 
abling Confederates  to  forestall  a  surprise  attack  and  win  the  first  battle  of 
Bull  Run.  Arrested  by  Allan  Pinkerton,  Federal  detective,  in  August  1861, 
she  was  imprisoned  until  April  1862,  when  she  was  sent  to  Richmond,  Va. 
While  returning  from  England  aboard  the  Confederate  blockade  runner 
Condor,  the  ship  grounded  off  New  Inlet  near  Wilmington.  Mrs.  Greenhow 
was  sent  ashore  in  a  small  boat,  which  capsized  in  the  surf.  Weighted  with 
a  belt  containing  gold  coin,  she  was  drowned. 

In  another  grave  Capt.  William  W.  Ellerbrook  and  his  dog,  Jocho,  lie  in 
the  same  casket.  The  dog  died  in  a  futile  effort  to  rescue  his  master  from  a 
burning  building. 

A  simple  granite  cross  bearing  the  name  Nance,  marks  the  grave  of  Nancy 
Martin  who  was  buried  in  a  cask  of  rum  in  1857.  To  preserve  the  body  when 
the  girl  died  at  sea  her  father  seated  it  in  a  chair  and  enclosed  both  in  the 
liquor. 

A  monument  over  the  Grave  of  Lizzie  B.  Turlington  records  that  she 
was  "Murdered  by  W.  L.  Bingham,"  her  fiance.  She  and  Bingham  were  deaf 
mutes  and  Miss  Turlington  was  a  teacher  in  the  State  school  for  the  deaf  and 
dumb.  When  she  wished  to  postpone  their  marriage  Bingham  persuaded  her 
to  take  a  ride  with  him.  Her  body,  found  a  few  days  later,  was  buried  here 
on  Christmas  day,  1886.  Bingham  disappeared  and  his  fate  is  unknown. 

24.  In  the  NATIONAL  CEMETERY,  Market  and  20th  Sts.,  along  the 
banks  of  Burnt  Mill  Creek,  are  buried  2,400  Union  soldiers.  Many  of  the 


WILMINGTON  257 

bodies  were  disinterred  from  battlefields  after  the  war  and  removed  to  this 
reservation. 

25.  GREENFIELD  PARK,  S.  end  of  3rd  St.,  surrounding  Greenfield  Lake, 
originally  a  mill  pond,  has  a  sunken  garden  of  native  flowers.  The  insectivo- 
rous Venus's-flytrap  grows  here.  A  playground,  bathing  beach,  and  boating 
facilities  are  maintained.  Wild  fowl  find  shelter  here  during  the  winter 
months. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  ENVIRONS 

Airlie  (azalea  gardens),  8  m.,  Wrightsville  Beach,  10  m.,  Fort  Caswell,  35  m.  {see 
tour  ib);  Orton  Plantation  and  Ruins  of  St.  Philip's  Church  at  site  of  Old  Brunswick, 
16  m.  {see  tour  iC);  Castle  Hayne  (immigrant  farm  colony),  10  m.,  Carolina  Beach, 
15  m.,  Kures  Beach  and  fishing  pier,  19  m.,  Ethyl-Dow  Plant,  20  m.,  Fort  Fisher, 
20  m.,  the  Rocks,  21  m.,  Moore's  Creek  Battlefield,  31  m.  {see  tour  29). 


WINSTON-SALEM 


Railroad  Station:  Union  Station,  300  S.  Claremont  St.,  for  Southern  Ry.  and  Norfolk  & 
Western  R.R. 

Bus  Stations:  426  N.  Cherry  St.  for  Atlantic  Greyhound  and  Queen  City  Coach.  Pan- 
American  Bus  Lines  stop  at  Zinzendorf  Hotel,  233  N.  Main  St. 

Airport:  Miller  Municipal,  3  m.  N.  of  Courthouse  on  Liberty  St.  extension;  taxi  fare  45^; 
no  scheduled  service. 

Taxis:  1   to  4  passengers,  25^. 

City  Buses:  4  bus  lines  start  at  Courthouse  Sq.:  Duke  Power  Co.,  jtf,  4  for  25^;  Inde- 
pendent (Waughtown  line)  10^,  4  for  25^,  (Polo  and  Country  Club)  10^,  3  for 
25^;  Blue  Eagle,  5^  within  city,  5<?  additional  outside  city  limits;  Brown's  5$.  Safe 
Bus  Inc.  (Negro)  stop  on  Church  and  3rd  Sts.,  5^.  Transfers  to  buses  of  same  line; 
no  intercompany  transfers. 

Accommodations:  8  hotels   (2  for  Negroes);  tourist  homes,  auto  camps. 

Information  Service:  Chamber  of  Commerce  and  Carolina  Motor  Club,  Robert  E.  Lee 
Hotel  building,  5th  and  Marshall  Sts. 

Radio  Stations:  WSJS  (1310  kc);  WAIR  (1250  kc). 

Theaters  and  Motion  Picture  Houses:  R.  J.  Reynolds  Memorial  Auditorium,  N.  Haw- 
thorne Rd.,  lectures,  concerts;  State  Theater,  SE.  corner  Liberty  and  5th  Sts.,  motion 
pictures  and  occasional  road  shows;   6  other  motion  picture   houses    (2   for  Negroes). 

Swimming:  City -owned  pool  in  Lligh  School  Gymnasium,  Hanes  Park,  Northwest  Blvd.; 
Crystal  Lake  (outdoor),  Reynolda  Rd.  (US  421),  5  m.;  Negro  recreational  center  and 
swimming  pool,  Cameron  Ave.  and  E.  14th  St. 

Golf:  Forsyth  County  Country  Club,  Country  Club  Rd.,  1.5  m.  W.  of  city  limits,  18 
holes,  greens  fee,  $1.50;  Hill  Crest,  3  m.  W.  of  city  limits  on  US  158,  9  holes,  greens 
fee,  50$. 

Tennis:  Municipal  courts  at  various  places;  call  city  Recreation  for  reservation. 

Riding:  Anderson  Riding  Academy,  Main  and  5th  Sts.  to  Polo  Rd.,  5.4  m. 

Skfet  Shooting:  Forsyth  County  Gun  Club,  Cherry  St.  extension,  one  block  N.  of  inter- 
section with  25th  St.;  Izaak  Walton  Skeet  Club,  Thomasville  Rd.    (State   109),  4  m. 

Baseball:  Southside  Park,  Waughtown  St.,  SE.  of  Salem  Creek  and  Main  St.,  Piedmont 
League   (Class  B). 

Polo:  Polo  Rd.,  0.5  m.  W.  from  US  421,  2  m.  beyond  city  limits;  riding  horses  available. 

Annual  Events:  Moravian  Sunrise  Service  on  Easter  Sunday;  Easter  Monday  German, 
Twin  City  Club;  May  Day  pageant;  Candle  Tea,  Nov.;  Moravian  Love  Feast  and 
Candle  Service,  Christmas  Eve;  Moravian  Watch  Night,  New  Year's  Eve. 

WINSTON-SALEM  (884  alt.,  75,274  pop.),  in  the  north-central  section  of 
the  North  Carolina  Piedmont,  is  the  leading  industrial  city  of  the  State.  The 
two  towns,  Winston  and  Salem,  became  one  municipality  in  19 13. 

Salem  Square  is  still  the  heart  of  Salem;  around  it  stand  the  first  buildings, 
bearing  witness  in  their  dignity  of  design  and  the  beauty  of  their  stone  and 
brick  masonry  to  the  patience  and  craftsmanship  of  their  builders.  Salem's 
streets  are  lined  with  arching  trees;  its  houses,  built  in  rows  flush  with  the 
sidewalk,  have  plain  exteriors  and  dormers  with  small  glass  panes.  The  For- 
syth County  Courthouse  is  the  center  of  Winston.  Nearby  is  the  business 

258 


WINSTON-SALEM  259 

district,  dominated  by  the  22-story  Reynolds  office  building,  a  set-back  sky- 
scraper of  vigorous  design,  and  the  18-story  Nissen  Building.  Winston's 
streets  are  comfortably  wide  and  the  houses  are  well  set  back. 

East  of  the  city  hall  and  extending  north  beyond  the  courthouse,  the 
tobacco  factories  lie  in  solid  masses,  block  upon  block,  with  here  and  there 
a  textile  mill.  Here  the  pungent  odor  of  tobacco  and  the  whirring  rattle  of 
spindles  and  looms  furnish  a  dominant  note. 

The  newer  homes  of  the  wealthy  are  in  suburbs  such  as  Buena  Vista  and 
the  Country  Club  section;  in  West  Highlands,  Southside,  and  Ardmore 
within  the  city  limits.  Many  of  the  older  families  live  in  ancestral  homes  in 
Salem.  To  the  north  and  east  are  crowded  unpainted  shacks,  housing  the 
bulk  of  the  city's  large  Negro  population,  42  percent  of  the  total.  Between 
these  extremes  are  hundreds  of  homes  of  well-to-do  whites  and  prosperous, 
educated  Negroes.  Along  East  14th  Street  is  a  half-mile  of  Negro  homes 
with  neat  premises  and  front  yards  adorned  with  shrubbery  and  flowers.  A 
few  fine  houses  are  in  this  group. 

The  Negroes  of  the  city  have  their  own  schools,  churches,  hospital,  Y.M. 
and  Y.W.C.A.,  library  facilities,  and  professional  and  cultural  activities. 
Many  are  employed  in  the  Reynolds  Tobacco  Company  in  which  a  number  of 
them  own  stock.  Negroes  operate  an  insurance  company,  a  large  bus  business, 
and  a  weekly  newspaper.  The  Twin  City  Glee  Club  and  the  Smith  Glee  Club 
are  talented  Negro  singing  groups,  composed  for  the  most  part  of  factory 
workers.  The  Winston-Salem  Teachers  College  is  developing  choral  music, 
chiefly  Negro  spirituals. 

The  minutely  accurate  records  of  the  first  Moravian  settlers  hold  the  key 
to  an  understanding  of  the  modern  city.  In  January  1753,  a  small  party  of 
Moravians  from  Bethlehem,  Pa.,  led  by  Bishop  August  Gottlieb  Spangen- 
burg,  in  their  search  for  desirable  land  for  a  settlement,  reached  "the  three 
forks  of  Muddy  Creek,"  where  they  found  a  fertile  country  of  forested  hills. 

From  Lord  Granville,  the  only  one  of  the  Lords  Proprietors  who  had  kept 
his  share  of  Carolina,  the  Moravians  bought  98,985  acres  and  called  the  tract 
"der  Wachau,"  for  the  Austrian  estate  belonging  to  ancestors  of  Count 
Zinzendorf,  patron  of  the  Moravian  Church.  The  name  became  Wachovia 
when  the  English  language  was  employed.  The  deed  was  made  to  James 
Hutton  of  London  "in  trust  for  the  Unitas  Fratrum,"  as  the  Moravians  were 
called.  To  finance  their  settlements  they  organized  a  land  company  in  which 
each  stockholder  received  2,000  acres  and  bore  his  proportionate  share  of  the 
expense  of  colonization. 

On  Oct.  8,  1753,  12  settlers  set  out  on  foot  from  Bethlehem  with  three 
guides  who  later  returned.  The  records  show  that  they  were  chosen  for  use- 
fulness in  a  pioneer  community.  The  little  band  arrived  at  the  Wachovia 
tract  on  Nov.  17,  1753,  and  stopped  where  there  was  an  abandoned  cabin 
and  meadowland  that  could  be  cultivated  for  a  quick  yield  of  necessary 
food.  For  this  shelter  and  their  safety  they  "rejoiced  heartily,"  holding  their 
first  Carolina  Love  Feast,  or  fellowship  meeting.  Thus  was  founded  the  first 
setdement,  Bethabara,  House  of  Passage,  sometimes  known  as  Oldtown 
{see  tour  25),  354  miles  from  the  present  Winston-Salem. 

They  were  welcome  in  a  country  that  lacked  ministers,  doctors,  and  skilled 


26(5  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

craftsmen.  Where  scattered  settlers  were  of  different  religious  faiths,  the 
Moravians  held  fast  to  their  own  church  customs.  On  New  Year's  Eve,  they 
observed  Watch  Night  by  reading  the  Memorabilia,  or  annual  record  of  com- 
munity and  world  events.  Love  Feasts  were  occasions  for  rejoicing  and  the 
remembrance  of  friends.  The  Easter  Sunrise  Service  proclaimed  the  Chris- 
tian's triumph  over  the  grave.  Nor  would  they  do  without  musical  instru- 
ments even  in  the  crude  surroundings  of  Bethabara.  Soon  after  their  arrival 
a  wooden  trumpet  was  made  from  a  hollowed  limb.  Later  they  brought  French 
horns,  trombones,  a  violin,  and  even  an  organ. 

In  spite  of  hardships,  the  Bethabara  settlement,  enlarged  by  families  from 
Pennsylvania  and  from  Europe,  grew  and  prospered.  In  1758  Indian  alarms 
drove  the  settlers  of  scattered  farms  into  Bethabara  for  food  and  protection. 
Crowded  conditions,  which  led  to  an  epidemic  of  typhus,  and  the  desire 
of  some  to  discard  the  communal  system  led  to  the  founding  of  a  new 
settlement,  Bethania,  in  1759  {see  tour  25),  6  miles  from  the  present  city. 

When  the  Wachovia  tract  was  bought,  a  town  was  planned  at  the  center 
of  it.  Tradition  says  the  name  Salem,  meaning  "peace,"  was  selected  by 
Count  Zinzendorf  before  he  died  in  1760.  On  a  bitter  cold  January  day  in 
1766,  12  men  went  to  the  new  town  site,  on  a  hill  above  a  creek,  and  began 
cutting  logs  for  the  first  house,  singing  hymns  as  they  worked.  This  cabin 
stood  until  1907;  its  heavy  door  and  stairsteps  are  on  exhibition  in  the 
Wachovia  Museum. 

By  the  fall  of  1771,  Salem  had  several  family  houses  and  community 
buildings.  Civil  and  religious  affairs  were  under  the  supervision  of  congre- 
gation boards  whose  control  was  facilitated  by  a  lease  system.  No  lots  in 
Salem  were  sold  outright,  but  were  leased  for  one  year  subject  to  renewal 
as  long  as  the  tenant  was  satisfactory. 

Bishop  John  Michael  Graff's  diary  gives  an  account  of  Revolutionary  days 
in  Salem.  Some  members  claimed  exemption  from  military  service  on  the 
grounds  of  conscientious  objections.  Heavy  fines  and  threefold  taxes  were 
collected  in  lieu  of  service.  A  legislative  act  confirmed  the  validity  of  their 
property  titles,  endangered  by  the  Confiscation  Act  of  1777.  The  years  1780 
and  '81  were  particularly  trying.  Detachments  of  Continentals  poured  into 
Wachovia  for  supplies.  Although  the  Moravians  raised  no  troops,  they  fur- 
nished aid  to  the  patriots,  and  Traugott  Bagge,  a  Salem  merchant,  acted  as 
a  purchasing  agent  for  the  army  in  this  section.  After  the  Battle  of  Kings 
Mountain  {see  tour  31c)  British  prisoners  were  brought  to  the  settlement, 
chiefly  to  Bethabara.  Whigs  engaged  a  party  of  Tories  at  Shallow  Ford,  10 
miles  west  of  Salem,  in  1780.  Cornwallis  came  this  way  in  pursuit  of  Greene, 
spending  the  night  of  Mar.  16,  1781  in  Bethania,  where  the  British  de- 
stroyed much  property,  then  passed  through  Salem.  President  Washington 
visited  Salem  in  1791  and  was  lodged  at  the  new  tavern.  He  and  his  secre- 
tary, with  Governor  Martin,  attended  a  Moravian  singing  meeting  "to  their 
great  edification."  Washington  inspected  the  town,  "seeming  especially 
pleased  with  the  waterworks." 

Matthew  Micksch  was  the  first  tobacconist,  opening  a  "shop  for  tobacco" 
in  1773.  In  1828  John  Christian  Blum  established  a  printing  shop  and  began 
publication  of  his  famous  Almanac.  Probably  the  earliest  wool-carding  ma- 


WINSTON-SALEM  26l 

chinery  in  the  State  was  that  introduced  by  Vaneman  Zevely  in  1815.  In 
1836,  as  agent  for  the  Salem  Cotton  Manufacturing  Company,  Francis  Fries 
built  the  first  cotton  mill  in  the  town.  He  began  business  on  his  own  account 
in  1840  with  a  small  wool-carding  establishment,  and  in  1849  he  and  his 
brother  operated  a  wool  and  cotton  mill. 

When  Forsyth  County  was  formed  in  1849,  Salem  lay  near  the  center 
of  it  and  was  the  natural  choice  for  a  courthouse  site.  The  congregation 
agreed  to  sell  land  just  north  of  Salem  for  a  county  town  on  condition  that 
the  courthouse  should  be  placed  on  the  crest  of  a  hill  and  that  the  streets 
of  the  new  town  should  be  continuous  with  the  streets  of  Salem.  For  two 
years  the  county  seat  had  no  separate  designation,  but  in  1851  the  legislature 
named  the  new  community  for  Maj.  Joseph  Winston  of  Kings  Mountain 
fame.  During  the  building  of  the  courthouse,  the  Forsyth  courts  were  per- 
mitted to  meet  in  the  Salem  Concert  Hall  on  condition  that  no  whipping 
posts  be  placed  within  the  town  limits.  In  1854  tne  plank  road  to  Fayetteville, 
120  miles  long,  was  completed. 

Salem  was  incorporated  by  the  assembly  of  1856-57;  Winston  by  the 
assembly  of  1859.  Incorporation  marked  the  separation  of  town  and  church 
affairs  in  Salem.  After  Winston  became  the  county  seat  it  attracted  residents 
from  the  North  Carolina  Piedmont,  Virginia,  and  elsewhere  who  built  mills 
and  factories.  As  the  members  of  denominations  other  than  Moravian  in- 
creased they  erected  their  own  churches. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  War  between  the  States  the  younger  generation 
of  Moravians,  free  from  scruples  against  bearing  arms,  enlisted  with  their 
neighbors.  The  Forsyth  Rifles  were  uniformed  by  Francis  Fries.  Wachovia 
saw  Union  soldiers  only  when  Stoneman's  raid  reached  Salem,  and  when 
the  10th  Ohio  Calvary  was  quartered  there  after  the  war.  At  that  time  F.  and 
H.  Fries  woolen  goods  and  Nissen  wagons  were  widely  known,  but  gradu- 
ally the  tobacco  industry  assumed  first  place,  the  first  tobacco  factory  and 
the  Winston-Salem  Tobacco  Market  opening  in  1872.  R.  J.  Reynolds  built 
his  first  tobacco  factory  in  1875  and  in  the  same  year  the  Western  North 
Carolina  R.R.  began  serving  the  town.  This  was  followed  by  rapid  expan- 
sion as  new  factories  were  started  and  banking  and  commercial  firms 
sprang  up  to  meet  the  requirements  of  the  growing  community. 

Winston-Salem  is  the  center  of  the  State's  largest  banking  organization, 
a  trading  point  for  a  large  section  of  the  Piedmont,  and  the  home  of  six- 
score  industries  with  an  annual  production  valued  at  $300,000,000. 

Calvin  Henderson  Wiley  (1819-87),  first  State  superintendent  of  schools 
in  North  Carolina  (1853-65),  spent  many  years  in  the  city,  and  assisted  in 
founding  its  graded-school  system.  Largely  through  his  efforts  the  perma- 
nent public  school  endowment  was  not  touched  for  military  purposes  during 
the  War  between  the  States. 

The  present  local  bands  are  developed  from  trombone  bands  that  played 
at  Moravian  festivals  long  before  the  Revolution.  The  largest  is  the  band  of 
the  Home  Moravian  Church  with  150  members;  its  leader,  Bernard  J.  Pfohl, 
has  been  with  the  organization  since  1879.  The  Mozart  Club,  organized  in 
1932,  founded  a  loan  fund  for  music  students.  The  Civic  Music  Association 
arranges  concerts  by  talented  artists.  Salem  College  annually  presents  a  May 


262  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

Day  pageant,  and  at  commencement  time  the  School  of  Music  gives  a  pro- 
gram of  choral  and  orchestral  music. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

1.  The  COFFEE  POT,  SW.  corner  S.  Main  and  Belew  Sts.,  was  erected 
in  1857  by  Julius  Mickey  as  a  sign  for  his  tin  shop.  The  pot  with  its  support 
is  16  feet  10  inches  high.  Tradition  relates  that  a  Confederate  soldier  hid 
within  the  pot  during  the  raid  by  Stoneman's  Federal  troops. 

2.  The  BELO  HOUSE  {private),  455  S.  Main  St.,  built  in  1849  by  Edward 
Belo  as  a  store  and  residence,  is  well  preserved.  The  three-story  structure  was 
once  a  center  of  social  and  commercial  life,  but  has  been  converted  into  an 
apartment  house.  The  weatherboarded  central  bay  is  recessed  between 
brick  wings,  and  the  whole  is  painted  white.  A  pedimented  Corinthian  portico 
rises  to  the  full  height  of  the  Main  Street  fagade,  shielding  a  roofed  second- 
story  balcony  supported  by  smaller  columns  of  similar  design  and  guarded 
by  an  elaborate  cast-iron  grille.  The  severity  of  the  walls  is  relieved  by  the 
dull  black  of  the  shingled  roof  and  three  long  rows  of  green-shuttered  small- 
paned  windows.  Street-level  paneled  doors  open  into  the  ground  floor,  which 
served  for  the  mercantile  establishment;  the  north  wing  housed  the  clerks. 

The  family  occupied  the  south  wing  which  faces  a  higher  level  on  Bank 
Street.  Here  the  two-story  fagade  is  marked  by  a  pedimented  Corinthian 
portico  and  a  second-story  balcony  with  an  ornate  grille.  Terraces  descend 
to  the  Main  Street  corner.  On  the  broad  stone  facings  of  the  retaining  wall 
are  the  heavy  cast-iron  figures  of  two  dogs  and  a  lion. 

3.  The  SALEM  LAND  OFFICE  BUILDING  {private),  SE.  corner  S. 
Main  and  Bank  Sts.,  was  erected  in  1797  as  the  office  and  home  of  the 
church  warden,  who  administered  all  town  affairs,  including  the  sale  of 
land.  Now  a  residence,  it  is  one  of  the  finest  examples  of  early  Salem  architec- 
ture. Flush  with  the  sidewalk,  its  first-floor  walls  are  of  stone,  some  of  the 
blocks  being  more  than  8  feet  long  and  6  inches  thick,  taken  from  a  quarry 
north  of  the  town;  the  second  floor  is  of  hand-made  brick.  Most  of  the 
joists  are  held  together  by  wooden  pegs;  its  nails  were  hammered  out  on 
the  blacksmith's  anvil.  Sprawling  hinges  extend  across  the  front  door,  whose 
heavy  lock  and  great  key  were  made  by  Lewis  Eberhardt,  early  Salem  lock- 
smith. In  1876  the  lower  floor  was  made  into  offices  for  the  congregational 
and  provisional  secretaries. 

4.  The  HOUSE  OF  THE  COMMUNITY  PHYSICIAN  {private),  463  S. 
Church  St.,  built  in  1800,  is  a  well-preserved  three-story  building  of  red, 
hand-made  brick.  Its  numerous  small-paned  windows  are  set  closely  together 
in  regular  rows.  This  was  the  residence  of  Dr.  Vierling,  early  Salem  physi- 
cian, whose  amputating  saw  and  other  instruments  are  in  the  museum  of 
the  Wachovia  Historical  Society. 

5.  The  MORAVIAN  GRAVEYARD,  entrance  by  way  of  Cedar  Ave., 
known  throughout  the  South  as  "God's  Acre,"  was  consecrated  in   1771. 


WINSTON-SALEM  263 

Five  wooden  arches  inscribed  with  quotations  from  the  Bible  lead  into  the 
graveyard.  The  field  is  divided  into  square  plots,  surrounded  by  wide  paths. 
To  the  north  are  the  graves  of  married  women;  east  of  these  are  single 
women,  girls,  and  female  infants;  south  are  married  men,  and  east  of  these 
single  men  and  male  children.  The  uniformity  of  the  white  marble  markers 
lying  flat  on  the  ground  is  intended  as  a  reminder  that  "in  death  all  are 
equal." 

6.  The  HENRY  LINEBACK  HOUSE  {private),  508  S.  Main  St.,  built 
in  1822  and  later  occupied  by  Henry  Lineback,  a  photographer,  is  a  one- 
and-a-half-story  clapboarded  dwelling  with  two  large  dormers  and  a  chim- 
ney of  hand-made  brick.  The  symmetrical,  five-bay  facade  has  a  plain  door- 
way with  simple  molded  trim,  a  dark  paneled  Dutch  door,  and  a  four-light 
transom.  The  original  design  has  been  altered  by  an  addition  on  the  north 
side. 

7.  The  WINKLER  BAKERY,  527  S.  Main  St.,  occupied  by  a  tearoom,  was 
erected  about  1800  and  for  a  century  operated  by  the  Winkler  family.  The 
main  floor  was  used  for  the  bakery,  the  second  floor  as  the  family  residence. 
In  1936  a  stoop  entrance  replaced  a  porch  which  extended  over  the  side- 
walk. Otherwise  the  building,  its  first  story  of  uncut  stone  and  the  second 
of  hand-made  brick,  remains  unaltered. 

8.  The  MUSEUM  OF  THE  WACHOVIA  HISTORICAL  SOCIETY 
{open  by  appointment;  W.  /.  Hall,  custodian,  4  E.  Ban\  St.),  NE.  corner 
S.  Main  and  Academy  Sts.,  maintained  Jby  the  Wachovia  Historical  Society, 
was  erected  in  1794  and  occupied  until  1896  by  a  boys  school.  The  building 
has  two  stories  and  an  attic.  The  basement  and  first  story  are  of  stone, 
covered  with  stucco,  and  the  superstructure  is  of  hand-made  brick,  laid  in 


Key  to  Winston-Salem  Map 

1.  The  Coffee  Pot.  2.  The  Belo  House.  3.  The  Salem  Land  Office  Building.  4.  The 
House  of  the  Community  Physician.  5.  The  Moravian  Graveyard.  6.  The  Henry  Line- 
back  House.  7.  The  Winkler  Bakery.  8.  The  Museum  of  the  Wachovia  Historical 
Society.  9.  The  Brothers  House.  10.  The  Home  Moravian  Church.  11.  Salem  Col- 
lege. 12.  The  Community  Store.  13.  The  John  Vogler  House.  14.  The  Blum  House. 
15.  The  Christian  Reich  House.  16.  The  Salem  Tavern.  17.  The  Chimney  House. 
18.  The  Brown-Williamson  Tobacco  Factory.  19.  The  R.  J.  Reynolds  Office  Building. 
20.  The  R.  J.  Reynolds  Tobacco  Plant.  21.  The  P.  H.  Hanes  Knitting  Plant.  22.  The 
Tobacco  Warehouses.  23.  The  Nissen  Building.  24.  The  Journal  and  Sentinel  Building. 
25.  The  Centenary  Methodist  Church.  26.  The  Richard  J.  Reynolds  Memorial  Audi- 
torium. 27.  The  Chatham  Manufacturing  Plant.  28.  The  Winston-Salem  Teachers  Col- 
lege.    29.  The  Nissen  Wagon  Plant. 

a.  Courthouse,  b.  City  Hall.  c.  Central  Park.  d.  Twin  City  Athletic  Park.  e.  Wash- 
ington Park.  f.  Waterworks,  g.  Union  Station,  h.  Fair  Grounds.  1.  Airport,  k.  Post 
Office,  l.  Chamber  of  Commerce,  m.  Bus  Station,  n.  P.  H.  Hanes  Park.  o.  Polo 
Field,  p.  Crystal  Lake.  q.  Runnymede  Iris  Park.  r.  Forsyth  County  Golf  Course. 
s.  Hill  Crest  Golf  Course,     t.  Municipal  Stadium. 


266  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

Flemish  bond.  The  severity  of  its  five-bay  facade  is  relieved  only  by  the 
graceful,  segmental  arched  headings  of  the  window  openings  and  by  a 
wrought-iron  lamp  above  the  simple  six-paneled  door.  Above  the  door  is  a 
four-light  transom.  The  gable  roof  of  hand-made  tile  is  broken  by  two  end 
chimneys.  The  house  has  an  old  oven,  a  vaulted  cellar  room,  and  a  winding 
staircase  to  the  third  floor.  The  museum  contains  the  first  fire  engine  used 
in  Salem;  a  printing  press  used  in  Hillsboro  before  1776  and  brought  to 
Salem  by  John  C.  Blum;  a  carriage  driven  from  Salem  to  New  York  in 
1825;  a  Self-Portrait  painted  by  Thomas  Sully  in  1837  for  Daniel  Welfare 
of  Salem;  tools  used  in  constructing  the  town's  first  waterworks;  old  musical 
instruments;  household  equipment;  early  surgical  instruments,  uniforms, 
weapons,  and  flags.  In  1937  the  old  museum  building  was  augmented  by  the 
addition  of  a  new  hall  of  history  on  the  north. 

9.  The  BROTHERS  HOUSE  {private),  SW.  corner  S.  Main  and  Academy 
Sts.,  was  built  in  two  units,  the  clapboarded  portion  in  1768,  being  one  of 
the  oldest  standing. structures  in  Salem,  and  the  brick  in  1786.  The  building 
has  two  stories  in  front  on  the  Main  Street  side  and  three  stories  in  the  rear. 
Its  two  arch-hooded  doorways,  shuttered  windows,  and  hand-wrought  guard- 
rails are  typical  of  old  Salem  architecture.  The  steeply  pitched  gable  roof  is 
broken  by  two  tiers  of  dormer  windows  and  three  chimneys  with  hooded 
tops.  Originally  occupied  by  the  unmarried  men  of  the  Unitas  Fratrum,  it 
has  been  used  during  recent  years  as  a  home  for  widows  and  unmarried 
women  belonging  to  the  Home  Moravian  Church,  and  is  sometimes  referred 
to  as  the  Widows  House.  Here  each  year  are  made  the  small  slender  wax 
candles  used  at  the  Christmas  Love  Feast.  Candles  are  made  at  a  candle 
tea,  given  in  November  by  the  Moravian  women  in  Colonial  dress.  Formerly 
there  was  a  spring  back  of  the  Brothers  House  and  a  marker  records  that 
Cornwallis'  soldiers  drank  from  its  waters. 

10.  The  HOME  MORAVIAN  CHURCH,  529  S.  Church  St.,  like  the  oldest 
Moravian  church  in  North  Carolina  (Bethabara),  is  notable  for  its  beautiful 
brick  masonry  of  simple  design,  its  massive  proportions,  and  for  the  char- 
acteristic architectural  features  of  the  exterior — the  arch-hooded  doorway,  the 
long  many-paned  arched  windows  on  the  front  facade,  the  octagonal  cupola 
with  its  open  arcade  and  onion-shaped  dome,  the  latter  topped  with  a  sphere 
and  weather  vane,  and  the  fine  cove  cornice  on  the  two  long  sides.  A  small 
wing  with  hooded  doorway  extends  to  the  right. 

The  cornerstone  of  the  building  was  laid  in  1798,  and  the  dedication  took 
place  two  years  later.  Bachman  came  from  Lititz,  Pa.,  to  install  the  first 
organ.  A  clock  in  the  front  gable,  operated  by  stone  weights,  was  made  by 
Abraham  Durninger  and  Sons,  Herrnhut,  Germany,  and  in  1791  was  in- 
stalled in  a  tower  on  the  square,  where  the  bell  had  been  placed  in  1772. 
Clock  and  bell  were  installed  in  the  church  while  the  building  was  under 
construction.  The  clock  still  strikes  the  hours  and  quarter-hours.  The  interior 
of  the  church  has  been  rebuilt  and  the  original  plan  has  been  enlarged. 

Standing  upon  the  stone  stoop  at  the  entrance,  the  bishop  each  year  con- 
ducts the  Easter  Sunrise  Service  of  the  Moravian  Church,  to  which  thou- 


WINSTON-SALEM  267 

sands  of  visitors  come.  This  service,  the  most  widely  known  of  Moravian 
customs,  originated  in  Herrnhut  in  1732,  when  young  men  of  the  congrega- 
tion assembled  in  the  graveyard  before  dawn  for  an  hour  of  prayer  and  song 
in  celebration  of  the  Resurrection.  They  acted  upon  their  own  initiative, 
but  the  following  year  the  Moravian  Church  adopted  the  service.  Count  Zin- 
zendorf,  chief  official  of  the  church,  introduced  instrumental  music  into  the 
service,  an  unusual  practice  in  Protestant  churches  at  that  time.  The  first 
Moravian  Sunrise  Service  in  North  Carolina  was  held  at  Bethabara  in  1758. 
The  first  Sunrise  Service  in  the  graveyard  at  Salem  took  place  in  1773  at  the 
grave  of  John  Birkhead,  a  British  soldier. 

The  Moravians  commemorate  the  birth  of  Jesus  with  Love  Feasts  in  the 
Home  Church  on  Christmas  Eve.  A  service  for  children  is  held  at  4:30,  and 
another  at  7:30  is  for  the  adult  congregation.  A  group  of  women  in  white 
distribute  buns  from  baskets,  and  men  serve  mugs  of  coffee.  Then  the  choir 
sings  an  anthem  and  the  congregation  "breaks  bread  together  as  one  Chris- 
tian family."  After  an  address,  candles  are  distributed,  and  during  the 
closing  hymn  they  are  held  aloft  by  the  congregation,  symbolizing  "the  com- 
bined light  of  individuals  who  let  their  light  so  shine,  even  as  Jesus  came  as 
a  light  into  the  world." 

On  New  Year's  Eve  the  Bishop  of  the  Southern  Province  reads  the 
Memorabilia,  or  summary  of  the  closing  year's  events,  from  the  pulpit  of 
the  Home  Moravian  Church.  This  record  is  drawn  from  daily  diaries  kept 
by  the  minister  of  each  congregation;  from  accounts  of  local  and  national 
events;  from  minutes  of  the  various  church  boards,  church  registers,  and 
biographies  read  at  funerals.  Wars,  politics,  the  state  of  the  weather,  fashions, 
and  the  homely  details  of  daily  living  have  all  been  faithfully  preserved  since 
1753,  with  the  result  that  these  records  constitute  a  valuable  and  authentic 
historical  source.  Until  1856  they  were  written  in  German,  but  a  full  trans- 
lation to  the  end  of  1783  exists  in  Records  of  the  Moravians  in  North  Caro- 
lina, edited  by  Dr.  Adelaide  L.  Fries,  archivist  of  the  Moravian  Church  in 
America,  Southern  Province.  When  the  clock  in  the  gable  peals  the  hour 
of  midnight,  the  instruments  of  the  band  outside  announce  the  New  Year. 
Since  1771  this  tune  has  been  the  same:  147-A,  Marenzo: 

Now  thank  we  all  our  God, 

With    heart    and    hands    and    voices. 

11.  SALEM  COLLEGE  (nonsectarian),  Church  St.  facing  Salem  Sq.,  one 
of  the  oldest  schools  for  women  in  the  State,  is  owned  and  operated  by  the 
Moravian  Church.  In  1772  a  day  school  was  opened,  offering  instruction  in 
French,  German,  music,  drawing,  painting,  and  fine  needlework,  as  well  as 
in  arithmetic,  history,  and  other  academic  subjects.  Reorganized  in  1802, 
with  a  boarding  school  to  accommodate  many  outside  students  not  of  the 
Moravian  faith,  it  became  Salem  Female  Academy,  and  later  Salem  College. 
It  offers  a  premedical  course  and  opportunity  for  training  in  social  and 
domestic  sciences.  The  student  body  in  the  college  usually  numbers  about 
350.  The  associate  preparatory  school,  Salem  Academy,  on  a  hill  east  of  the 
campus,  has  about  80  students. 

The  college  buildings  {open  during  school  hours  unless  otherwise  noted), 


268  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

on  a  50-acre  campus,  are  designed  in  the  characteristic  German-Moravian 
style,  based  upon  the  18th-century  architecture  of  middle  Europe.  The  more 
recently  constructed  buildings  have/  been  designed  to  conform  to  the  style 
and  plan  of  the  original  Salem  structures. 

The  College  Office  Building,  corner  Church  and  Academy  Sts., 
was  completed  in  1810  and  first  served  as  home  of  the  Inspector  of  Salem 
Female  Academy.  The  one-and-a-half-story  brick  structure  has  a  wide,  arch- 
hooded  doorway  approached  by  a  double  flight  of  stone  steps.  The  arched 
transom  above  the  door  is  filled  with  delicate  tracery.  Two  white-trimmed 
double-hung  windows  on  both  sides  have  arched  brick  headings  and  dark 
louvered  shutters.  A  fine  cove  cornice  carries  the  overhang  of  the  eaves.  The 
tile  roof  is  pierced  with  four  gabled  dormers.  Beneath  the  structure  is  a 
stone-paved  cellar.  In  Memorial  Hall  is  an  organ  whose  specifications  were 
prepared  by  Harry  A.  Shirley  (1865-1928),  former  dean  of  the  School  of 
Music.  Main  Hall,  used  for  classes,  is  designed  with  a  large  white  Doric 
portico,  supported  by  four  columns.  The  bases  and  steps  are  of  hewn  granite. 
South  Hall,  south  of  Main  Hall,  was  erected  in  1803-4  f°r  tne  boarding 
school.  Adjoining  South  Hall  is  the  building  known  as  the  Sisters  House, 
occupied  by  the  college  faculty.  Completed  in  1786,  this  well-proportioned 
structure,  of  hand-made  clay  brick  laid  in  Flemish  bond,  has  dormer  win- 
dows, tile  roof,  and  floors  of  wide  plank  and  stone.  Here  the  single  sisters 
lived  and  worked  at  their  spinning  and  weaving.  The  Salem  College 
Library  {open  during  school  term  8  a.m.-io  p.m.  weekdays,  2-5  Sun.), 
dedicated  in  1938,  is  of  modified  late  Georgian  Colonial  architecture.  The 
exterior  harmonizes  with  its  adjacent  neighbor  on  Salem  Square,  the  Sisters 
House.  Several  paintings  and  old  music  manuscripts  are  included  in  the 
library  collection. 

12.  The  COMMUNITY  STORE  (private),  NW.  corner  S.  Main  and  West 
Sts.,  served  as  a  center  of  trade  during  the  period  1775-1817.  The  size  of  the 
building  is  unchanged  but  the  front  has  been  altered.  The  exterior,  of 
uncut  stuccoed  stone,  has  dormers  and  square,  small-paned  windows. 

13.  The  JOHN  VOGLER  HOUSE  (private),  700  S.  Main  St.,  was  erected 
in  1819  by  John  Vogler,  a  silversmith  and  cabinetmaker.  This  sturdy,  three- 
story  building  of  red,  hand-made  brick,  standing  flush  with  the  sidewalk, 
is  well  preserved.  The  windows  are  narrow  and  small-paned  and  the  usual 
dormers  are  omitted. 

14.  The  BLUM  HOUSE  (private),  724  S.  Main  St.,  built  in  1 815,  is  a  plain, 
two-story  frame  structure,  with  two  rows  of  close,  narrow-paned  windows 
and  solid  wooden  blinds.  Adjoining  front  doors  lead  to  different  parts  of 
the  building.  The  south  door  was  the  entrance  to  Blum's  residence,  the 
north  door  opened  upon  the  book  shop.  His  print  shop  occupied  a  frame 
building  in  the  rear  that  was  torn  down  several  years  ago.  Since  1828, 
when  John  Christian  Blum  bought  a  second-hand  Washington  hand  press 
and  began  to  publish  Blum's  Almanac,  the  publication  has  ranked  second 
only  to  the  Bible  in  literary  popularity  with  thousands  of  Tar  Heel  agricul- 
turists who  have  tilled  and  planted  upon  its  advice.  Not  one  issue  has  been 


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WINSTON -SALEM  269 

missed  in  1 1 1  years.  The  original  front-page  design  and  wood-cut  illustrations 
that  embellished  the  first  copies  are  still  used  although  the  Almanac  issues 
from  a  modern  plant  at  218  North  Main  Street. 

15.  The  CHRISTIAN  REICH  HOUSE  {private),  NE.  corner  S.  Main 
and  Blum  Sts.,  was  built  in  1792  by  John  George  Ebert,  who  sold  it  to  Scho- 
bar,  who  in  turn  sold  it  to  Christian  Reich  for  use  as  a  home  and  tin  shop. 
Reich's  tools  are  preserved  in  the  museum  of  the  Wachovia  Historical  Society. 
The  frame  structure  with  thick,  clapboarded  walls,  was  on  the  verge  of 
collapse  when  a  program  of  restoration  was  begun  in  1938.  The  two-and-a- 
half-story  gabled  home  is  notable  for  its  pedimented  entrance  portico. 

16.  The  SALEM  TAVERN  {private),  800  S.  Main  St.,  was  built  in  1784 
by  Abraham  Loesch,  replacing  an  older  frame  structure  erected  in  1772  and 
burned  in  1784.  George  Washington  was  entertained  here  in  1791.  The  mas- 
sive three-story  brick  structure  is  raised  a  half  story  above  the  sidewalk. 
Across  the  front  is  a  two-story  gallery  porch  with  white  latticed  railings  and 
square  wooden  posts  at  each  level.  The  porch  is  covered  with  a  lean-to  roof. 
The  broad  gable  roof  of  the  main  structure  is  pierced  with  a  simple,  gabled 
dormer  on  the  front. 

17.  The  CHIMNEY  HOUSE  {open  8-5  weekdays;  adm.  25$),  113  W. 
Walnut  St.,  was  built  by  Abraham  Loesch  in  1789  and  named  for  the  huge, 
twisting,  central  chimney  of  local  stone.  The  house  is  of  hand-hewn  logs 
but  was  weatherboarded  about  1800.  The  doors  have  hand-made  iron  latches 
and  hinges,  no  two  being  of  the  same  type.  The  house  contains  a  collection 
of  old  china,  furniture,  and  household  effects. 

18.  The  BROWN-WILLIAMSON  TOBACCO  CO.  FACTORY  {open  on 
application  at  office),  NW.  and  SW.  corners  1st  and  Liberty  Sts.,  manufac- 
tures smoking  and  chewing  tobaccos.  The  plant  includes  five  buildings  with 
125,000  feet  of  floor  space,  and  employs  950  persons. 

19.  The  R.  J.  REYNOLDS  OFFICE  BUILDING  (1928-29),  by  Shreve, 
Lamb,  and  Harmon,  designers  of  the  Empire  State  Building,  NE.  corner  N. 
Main  and  4th  Sts.,  22  stories,  is  the  tallest  structure  in  North  Carolina  with 
the  pinnacle  of  its  tower  315  feet  above  street  level.  An  Observation  Tower 
{open  8-12:30,  1:30-5,  Mon.-Fri.)  gives  a  view  of  the  entire  city  and  its  en- 
virons. From  a  distance  the  building  has  the  appearance  of  a  fluted  column, 
crowned  by  a  stepped  pyramid.  Floodlighted  at  night,  the  tower  is  an  out- 
standing landmark  in  the  city. 

20.  The  R.  J.  REYNOLDS  TOBACCO  CO.  PLANT  {portions  of  factory 
open  on  application  igth  floor  Reynolds  office  building;  guides)  occupies 
10  city  blocks  from  1st  to  6th  Sts.,  and  between  Main  and  Linden  Sts.  The 
company  manufactures  cigarettes,  smoking  and  chewing  tobacco,  and  oper- 
ates its  own  tinfoil  factory.  In  the  Camel  cigarette  plant  great  banks  of 
machinery  shred  the  tobacco  and  feed  it  into  other  machines  that  wrap,  cut, 
and  package  the  cigarettes  at  the  rate  of  several  thousand  per  minute.  The 
process  is  automatic,  even  to  the  placing  of  cellophane  wrappers  and  revenue 


270  CITIES    AND    TOWNS 

stamps,  though  inspectors  watch  for  and  eliminate  any  defective  materials. 
The  process  is  likewise  automatic  in  the  Prince  Albert  smoking  tobacco  fac- 
tory, including  the  making  of  tin  containers,  sealing,  stamping,  and  final 
packing. 

The  plant,  which  started  in  1875  in  one  small  frame  building,  occupies 
129  acres  of  floor  space,  employs  13,000  persons,  and  ships  100  standard 
cars  of  tobacco  products  each  week.  Forty-three  billion  cigarettes  were 
manufactured  in  1936.  Seventy-five  tobacco  sheds  are  in  the  northern  part 
of  the  city.  Because  of  the  heavy  importation  of  Turkish  tobacco,  and  of 
cigarette  papers  from  France,  Winston-Salem,  250  miles  from  the  sea,  is 
the  ninth  port  of  entry  in  the  United  States. 

21.  The  P.  H.  HANES  KNITTING  PLANT  (open  on  application  at 
office;  guides),  N.  Main  St.  between  6th  and  7th  Sts.,  manufactures  men's 
and  boys'  underwear.  The  company  operates  six  factory  units,  three  here 
and  three  in  Hanes,  N.  C.  In  the  latter  the  raw  cotton  is  manufactured  into 
yarn;  the  Winston-Salem  units  turn  the  yarn  into  finished  products.  Auto- 
matic knitting  machinery  carries  on  the  process  of  manufacture.  About  2,500 
persons,  most  of  them  skilled  operatives,  are  employed  in  the  plants. 

22.  The  TOBACCO  WAREHOUSES  (open  in  season),  between  5th, 
Trade,  Liberty,  and  9th  Sts.,  are  humming  centers  of  activity  from  the  first 
Monday  in  October  until  the  middle  of  February,  as  the  Old  Belt  flue-cured 
tobacco  of  this  section  is  brought  in  for  sale.  Each  of  the  warehouses  covers 
an  acre  or  more.  As  much  as  a  million  pounds  is  sold  in  a  single  day  from 
10  warehouses,  nearly  60,000,000  pounds  being  an  average  season's  turnover. 

23.  The  NISSEN  BUILDING,  SW.  corner  4th  and  Cherry  Sts.,  designed 
by  W.  L.  Stoddard,  is  18  stories  high  and  was  completed  in  1927.  Built  of 
buff  brick  laid  in  Flemish  bond,  the  mass  is  relieved  by  granite,  marble,  and 
limestone  facings.  This  structure  was  financed  by  a  business  that  can  be 
traced  back  to  1787,  when  the  first  Nissen  wagon  was  built. 

24.  The  JOURNAL  AND  SENTINEL  BUILDING  (open  on  application 
at  office),  420  N.  Marshall  St.,  designed  by  Harold  Macklin,  was  con- 
structed in  1927.  The  style  is  in  keeping  with  the  simplicity  of  the  old 
German  Moravian  architecture.  The  design  of  the  cupola  on  the  roof  and 
the  Palladian  window  in  the  front  and  center  of  the  second  story  are  based 
upon  those  of  Independence  Hall,  Philadelphia. 

25.  The  CENTENARY  METHODIST  CHURCH,  W.  5th  St.  between 
Poplar  and  Spring  Sts.  (1931),  designed  by  Mayer,  Murray,  and  Phillip, 
is  a  massive  yet  simple  stone  structure  of  modified  Gothic  design.  Over  the 
wide-arched  entrance,  slightly  recessed,  is  a  traceried  window  with  a  carved 
limestone  facing.  On  both  sides  of  the  entrance  the  walls  are  fashioned  into 
huge  square  tower-like  masses  which  rise  to  the  pointed  arch  that  surmounts 
the  central  portion  of  the  front  facade.  The  plan  of  the  building  is  cruciform 
with  transepts  flanking  both  sides  of  the  long  nave.  There  are  three  galleries, 
one  over  each  transept  and  one  over  the  narthex.  Nine  Gothic  lancet  win- 
dows rise  above  the  apse. 


WINSTON -SALEM  T]\ 

26.  The  RICHARD  J.  REYNOLDS  MEMORIAL  AUDITORIUM  (open 

for  school  assemblies,  entertainments,  etc.),  N.  Hawthorne  Rd.  (1924), 
designed  by  Charles  Barton  Keene,  was  the  gift  of  Mrs.  Katherine  S. 
Reynolds.  It  was  erected  as  a  memorial  to  her  husband,  Richard  J.  Reynolds, 
founder  of  the  R.  J.  Reynolds  Tobacco  Company.  Standing  on  an  eminence 
known  as  Silver  Hill,  the  auditorium  is  connected  by  a  walkway  with  the 
Reynolds  High  School  and  the  Music  Building.  The  structure  seats  1,030 
on  the  main  floor  and  1,087  m  tne  balcony.  Six  huge  Corinthian  columns 
of  Indiana  limestone  support  the  roof  of  the  portico.  The  structure,  of 
modified  Georgian  Colonial  design,  is  built  of  red  brick  with  limestone  cor- 
nices and  trim.  In  the  lobby  are  two  marble  statues,  the  Discus  Thrower 
and  the  Wrestlers,  made  in  Florence,  Italy,  and  given  to  the  high  school  by 
a  citizen  of  Winston-Salem. 

27.  The  CHATHAM  MANUFACTURING  CO.  PLANT  (open  on  ap- 
plication at  office),  Chatham  Rd.  between  R.R.  tracks  and  Northwest  Blvd., 
is  the  largest  producer  of  woolen  blankets  in  the  United  States.  These  are 
manufactured  in  the  company  plants  at  Elkin  (see  tour  16),  and  finished 
here.  Most  of  the  wool  used  is  from  the  mountains  of  Tennessee,  Virginia, 
and  North  Carolina,  although  some  is  imported. 

28.  The  WINSTON-SALEM  TEACHERS  COLLEGE  (Negro,  coeduca- 
tional), at  the  end  of  Wallace  St.  facing  Bruce  and  Slater  Sts.,  occupying  a 
55-acre  campus  with  seven  brick  buildings,  is  a  Grade-A  college  for  the  train- 
ing of  Negro  elementary  teachers.  The  institution  is  a  monument  to  the 
perseverance  of  Dr.  S.  G.  Atkins  who  resigned  the  superintendency  of  the 
Negro  schools  in  Winston-Salem  in  1892  to  found  the  Slater  Industrial 
Academy.  At  first  designed  to  teach  Negro  boys  and  girls  the  manual  arts 
and  home  economics,  it  was  recognized  by  the  State  in  1895,  and  in  1897 
was  chartered  as  the  Slater  Industrial  and  State  Normal  School.  The  State 
assumed  full  control  in  1905.  A  new  charter  issued  in  1925  changed  the  name 
to  Winston-Salem  Teachers  College.  The  B.S.  degree  in  education  is  con- 
ferred. The  faculty  numbers  22  and  the  student  enrollment  is  550.  A  15-acre 
tract  is  used  for  growing  truck  and  farm  crops. 

29.  The  NISSEN  WAGON  PLANT  (open  Mon.-Fri.;  guides  on  applica- 
tion to  office),  1539  Waughtown  St.,  is  the  successor  of  the  factory  estab- 
lished in  Salem  in  1787  by  George  E.  Nissen.  Except  for  fire  and  reorganiza- 
tion the  business  has  operated  continuously  since  that  time,  making  prairie 
schooners  for  emigrants  to  the  West  and  wagons  used  in  three  wars.  Still 
employing  white  oak  and  hickory,  though  using  modern  machinery,  the 
firm  produces  about  2,500  wagons  a  year. 

POINTS  OF  INTEREST  IN  ENVIRONS 

Friedberg  Church,  7  m.,  Adam  Spach  House,  8  m.  (see  tour  15);  Hanes,  2  m. 
{see  tour  24);  Reynolda  Estate,  2  m.,  Bethabara  Church,  3.5  m.,  Bethania,  6  m., 
Korner's  Folly,  11m.  (see  tour  25). 


Part  III 


TOURS 


TOUR 


(Portsmouth,  Va.) — Elizabeth   City — Edenton — Williamston — Washington 
— New  Bern — Wilmington — (Myrtle  Beach,  S.  C);  US  17. 
Virginia  Line — South  Carolina  Line,  285  m. 

The  Norfolk  Southern  R.R.  parallels  route  between  Moyock  and  Edenton,  and  between 
Washington  and  New  Bern;  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line  R.R.  between  New  Bern  and 
Wilmington;  the  Wilmington,  Brunswick  &  Southern  between  Wilmington  and  Southport. 
Roadbed  paved  throughout  except  on  portions  of  side  routes.  Hotel  accommodations  in 
cities  and  larger  towns;  few  tourist  accommodations  between  towns. 

Section  a.  VIRGINIA  LINE  to  WILLIAMSTON;  87  m.  US  17 

US  17  runs  through  the  ancient  Albemarle  region,  passing  level  stretches  of 
truck  farms,  penetrating  dense  swamps,  crossing  picturesque  bridges,  and 
skirting  the  great  indentations  of  coastal  sounds  and  broad  river  estuaries. 
The  section  is  famous  for  duck  hunting  and  sport  fishing. 

Possession  of  the  section  was  wrested  from  the  Indians  by  the  English. 
Troublous  times  marked  the  regime  of  the  Lords  Proprietors  (1 663-1 729) 
and  that  of  the  Crown  (1729-76).  Pirates  sailed  the  sounds  and  rivers  spread- 
ing terror  in  their  wake.  There  was  fighting  here  during  both  the  Revolution 
and  the  War  between  the  States. 

The  counties  north  of  Albemarle  Sound  were  long  referred  to  as  the 
Lost  Provinces  because  of  the  difficulty  of  communication  with  the  rest  of 
the  State.  A  network  of  modern  highways,  connected  over  the  numerous 
inland  waters  by  bridges,  causeways,  and  ferries,  has  opened  up  formerly 
isolated  areas. 

Almost  all  the  people  of  the  section  are  native-born.  Families  take  pride 
in  their  descent  from  early  settlers,  and  many  trace  their  ancestry  to  the  17th 
century  when  this  was  the  scene  of  the  first  permanent  settlements  in  the 
State.  Though  some  towns  give  the  impression  that  their  people  live  largely 
in  the  past,  others  are  frankly  new  and  modern. 

US  17  (the  Ocean  Highway)  crosses  the  North  Carolina  Line  19 
miles  south  of  Portsmouth,  Va.  (see  va.  tour  6),  following  the  banks  of 
the  Dismal  Swamp  Canal  from  Deep  Creek,  Va.  Between  Deep  Creek 
and  South  Mills,  N.  C,  the  route  is  known  as  the  George  Washington 
Highway. 

The  GREAT  DISMAL  SWAMP  has  been  reduced  by  drainage  from 
2,200  to  750  square  miles.  It  is  30  miles  long  north  to  south  and  varies  in 
width.  With  its  northern  border  a  little  south  of  Norfolk,  Va.,  the  swamp 
covers  parts  of  Norfolk  and  Nansemond  Counties  in  that  State  and  in  North 

275 


276  TOURS 

Carolina  extends  through  portions  of  Currituck,  Camden,  Pasquotank,  and 
Gates  Counties.  The  swamp  was  named  by  Col.  William  Byrd  of  Virginia, 
a  member  of  the  1728  expedition  that  charted  the  dividing  line  between  the 
two  Colonies.  Byrd's  Description  of  the  Dismal  with  proposal  to  drain  it, 
written  about  1730,  says: 

.  .  .  the  ground  of  this  swamp  is  a  meer  quagmire,  trembling  under  the 
feet  of  those  that  walk  upon  it.  .  .  .  Towards  the  south  end  of  it,  is  a  very 
large  tract  of  reeds  without  any  trees  at  all  growing  amongst  them  which 
being  constantly  green  and  waving  in  the  wind  is  called  the  Green  Sea.  .  .  . 
Near  the  middle  of  the  Dismal  the  trees  grow  thicker — the  cypresses  as  well 
as  the  cedars.  These  being  always  green  and  loded  with  very  large  tops,  are 
much  exposed  to  the  winds,  and  easily  blown  down.  ...  By  these  the  pas- 
sage is  in  most  places  interrupted,  they  lying  piled  in  heaps  and  horsing  on 
one  another;  nor  is  this  all  for  the  snags  left  on  them  point  every  way,  and 
require  the  utmost  caution  to  clamber  over  them.  'Tis  remarkable  that,  to- 
wards the  heart  of  this  horrible  desart,  no  beast  or  bird  approaches,  nor  so 
much  as  an  insect  or  reptile.  This  must  happen  not  so  much  from  the  moisture 
of  the  soil,  as  from  the  everlasting  shade  occationed  by  the  thick  shrubbs 
and  bushes,  so  that  the  friendly  warmth  of  the  sun  can  never  penetrate  them 
to  warm  the  earth.  Nor  indeed  do  any  birds  fly  over  it . . .  for  fear  of 
the  noisome  exhalations  that  rise  from  this  vast  body  of  dirt  and  nasti- 
ness. .  . .  With  all  these  disadvantages  the  Dismal  is  in  many  places  pleasant 
to  the  eye,  though  disagreeable  to  the  other  sences,  because  of  the  perpetual 
verdure,  which  makes  every  season  look  like  spring,  and  every  month 
like  May. 

George  Washington,  who  with  Fielding  Lewis  and  others,  surveyed  the 
swamp  in  1763,  described  the  region  as  a  "paradise."  Washington  became 
one  of  the  stockholders  in  the  company  which  hoped  to  reclaim  the  land 
and  to  provide  transportation  facilities  between  Hampton  Roads  in  Virginia 
and  the  rivers  and  sounds  of  North  Carolina.  The  Dismal  Swamp  Canal, 
dug  by  Negro  slaves  although  authorized  by  the  legislature,  was  constructed 
(1790-1822)  by  private  subscription.  The  Albemarle  and  Chesapeake  Canal 
also  connects  Albemarle  Sound  with  Chesapeake  Bay. 

In  the  dense  forests  of  bald  cypress,  black  gum,  and  juniper,  the  sunlight 
filters  down  upon  a  tangle  of  woodbine  and  honeysuckle.  Game  is  still 
plentiful,  especially  in  the  almost  inaccessible  Coldwater  Ditch  section,  where 
bear,  deer,  opossum,  and  raccoon  occur.  The  swamp  is  also  a  haven  for 
many  species  of  birds,  among  them  the  rare  ivory-billed  woodpecker.  In 
summer  the  canal  bank  is  a  mass  of  honeysuckle,  reeds,  myrtle,  and  Virginia 
creeper. 

Fire  and  ax  have  made  ruthless  attacks  on  the  swamp  without  materially 
altering  it.  It  is  virtually  an  unbroken  wilderness,  owned  by  lumber  com- 
panies who  operate  sawmills  along  the  borders.  There  are  miles  of  scattered 
clearings  where  the  peat  has  burned  down  8  or  10  feet  to  the  sand  and  clay. 
After  a  fire  in  1923  had  destroyed  150  square  miles  of  swamp  timber,  peat- 
land  continued  to  burn  until  1926.  Lightning,  sparks  from  a  log  train,  or  the 
carelessness  of  a  smoker  can  start  a  fire  that  will  smolder  for  months. 


TOUR    I  277 

LAKE  DRUMMOND,  connected  with  the  canal  by  the  3-mile  Feeder 
Ditch,  is  a  fresh-water  lake  in  the  heart  of  the  swamp.  Although  on  the 
Virginia  side,  it  is  named  for  William  Drummond,  first  Governor  of  North 
Carolina  (1663-67),  who  supposedly  discovered  it.  The  Irish  poet,  Thomas 
Moore,  visited  the  lake  in  1803  and  wrote  a  melancholy  ballad,  the  Lake  of 
the  Dismal  Swamp. 

The  swamp  water,  colored  by  the  leachings  of  gum,  cypress,  maple,  and 
juniper,  resembles  old  Madeira  wine.  Pure  juniper  water  is  considered  de- 
licious and  healthful,  and  was  once  carried  by  ships  on  long  sea  voyages. 
Juniper  tea,  made  from  steeped  cedar  "straw,"  was  once  a  common  beverage 
in  swamp  lumber  camps  and  was  believed  to  give  immunity  from  malaria. 

Legend  has  endowed  the  Dismal  with  imaginary  terrors.  Stories  of  ghosts, 
savages,  moonshiners,  desperate  fugitives,  poisonous  plants,  and  stealthy 
serpents  once  kept  all  but  the  most  intrepid  from  penetrating  its  inner  depths, 
though  it  was  long  a  favorite  refuge  of  runaway  slaves.  In  reality,  treacherous 
quicksands  are  probably  the  most  serious  danger  to  the  unwary  traveler. 

On  the  Virginia-North  Carolina  Line,  0  m.,  is  the  Site  of  the  Halfway 
House.  Built  about  1800,  half  in  North  Carolina  and  half  in  Virginia,  the 
house  was  a  stagecoach  stop.  There  was  much  gambling  in  the  taproom  and 
the  place  was  notorious  as  a  dueling  ground  and  hide-out.  Fugitives  from 
Virginia  rested  as  contentedly  on  the  North  Carolina  side  as  did  North 
Carolina  fugitives  on  the  Virginia  side.  An  unsupported  legend  is  that  while 
visiting  here  Edgar  Allen  Poe  wrote  the  Raven. 

SOUTH  MILLS,  8  m.  (8  alt.,  404  pop.),  was  formerly  named  Old  Leb- 
anon. A  120-foot  drawbridge  crosses  the  canal  near  the  locks.  South  Mills 
is  known  as  a  Gretna  Green;  local  magistrates  actively  compete  for  the  trade. 

Left  from  South  Mills  on  graded  State  343  to  SAWYERS'  LANE  BATTLEFIELD, 
3  m.,  scene  of  an  engagement,  Apr.  19,  1862,  between  Union  and  Confederate  troops. 
Breastworks  and  trenches  remain. 

At  10  m.  is  the  junction  with  paved  State  30. 

Right  on  State  30  the  highway  penetrates  a  portion  of  the  Great  Dismal  Swamp  which, 
at  7  m.,  presents  an  appearance  of  desolation.  In  places  gaunt  dead  cypress  masts  rise 
above  thick,  gray  underbrush;  in  others  the  boggy  surface  is  littered  with  charred  logs 
and  stumps. 

GATESVILLE,  25  m.  (27  alt.,  225  pop.),  is  the  seat  of  Gates  County,  named  in  1780 
for  Revolutionary  Gen.  Horatio  Gates.  Here  is  annually  held  the  Fishermen's  (February) 
Court  {3rd  Mon.  in  Feb.),  which  developed,  after  slaves  had  been  freed,  as  a  day  on 
which  Negro  labor  was  employed  for  the  fishing  season.  When  the  hiring  was  over,  the 
ensuing  celebration  at  times  became  an  orgy  of  drunkenness  and  gambling.  Free  liquor 
flowed  from  barrels  on  the  hotel  porch.  Fist  fights  were  common  and  "hell-raising  was 
the  order  of  the  day."  People  still  observe  the  occasion  by  coming  to  town,  with  no  set 
purpose  other  than  meeting  old  friends,  seeing,  and  being  seen. 

Bennetts  Creek  {fishing,  hunting,  and  trapping)  borders  the  town  on  the  south;  freight 
and  passenger  boats  once  plied  its  waters,  now  used  chiefly  by  pleasure  craft. 

Gates  County  Courthouse  (1836),  Court  St.,  is  a  stuccoed  structure,  one  of  the  few 
public  buildings  in  the  State  designed  in  the  Gothic  Revival  style.  Its  bell  was  purchased 
in  1 78 1.  The  Confederate  Monument,  Court  St.  opposite  the  courthouse,  was  erected 
in  1 91 5.  It  bears  an  inscription  to  Wm.  P.  Roberts,  the  youngest  general  in  the  Con- 
federate Army. 


278  TOURS 

Right  from  Gatesville  on  State  37,  in  BUCKLAND,  7  m.  (45  pop.),  is  the  Dr.  Smith 
House  {visitors  welcome).  This  old  columned  house,  built  in  1775,  is  owned  and 
occupied  (1939)  by  former  slaves  of  the  family.  Its  interior  carved  woodwork  has  been 
sold. 

At  40  m.  on  State  30  is  the  Chowan  (cho-wan')  River. 

WINTON,  43  m.  (65  alt.,  582  pop.),  seat  of  Hertford  County,  incorporated  in  1754, 
was  named  for  the  DeWinton  family  of  England;  the  county*s  name  honors  the  Marquis 
of  Hertford.  During  the  War  between  the  States  the  town  was  burned  except  for  one 
log  cabin.  The  first  courthouse  was  set  on  fire  in  1830  by  Wright  Allen,  who  sought  thus 
to  destroy  a  forged  note.  He  was  exposed,  tried,  and  publicly  hanged  on  the  courthouse 
grounds.  Winton  levies  no  local  taxes;  its  revenue  is  derived  from  municipally  owned 
and  operated  farm  lands.  Citizens  protested  so  vigorously  against  the  noise,  smoke,  and 
dust  of  trains  that  the  railroad  tracks  were  laid  30  miles  away.  Winton  was  the  birthplace 
of  Richard  J.  Gatling  (1818-1903),  inventor  of  the  Gatling  gun. 

Right  from  Winton  3  m.  on  a  dirt  road  is  TUSCARORA  BEACH  {bathing,  boating, 
and  dancing),  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Chowan  River. 


At  19  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 


Left  on  this  road  to  the  Old  Brick  House  {visitors  welcome),  0.7  m.,  on  the  bank 
of  the  Pasquotank  River,  traditionally  a  haunt  of  the  pirate  Blackbeard  {see  tour  33 A). 
The  house  is  of  wood  except  for  the  brick  ends,  one  of  which  bears  the  date  1700.  At 
the  doorstep  formerly  rested  a  circular  stone  slab  marked  "E.  T.  1709."  The  initials 
are  supposed  to  stand  for  Edward  Teach,  or  Thatch,  both  of  which  are  given  as  Black- 
beard's  real  name. 

The  interior  once  contained  fine  paneling  and  richly  carved  mantels.  On  either  side 
of  the  fireplace  were  closets  communicating  with  a  concealed  passage  leading  from  the 
basement  to  the  river.  Blackbeard  confined  his  prisoners  and  hostages  in  the  basement, 
legend  relates,  and  if  pressed  by  the  approach  of  his  enemies,  escaped  through  the 
tunnel  to  his  boat. 

ELIZABETH  CITY,  22  m.  (8  alt.,  10,037  P°P-)  (see  Elizabeth  city). 

Points  of  Interest:  Public  Square,  Judge  Small  House,  Fearing  House,  Charles  House, 
Shipyards  and  Yacht  Basin,  Beveridge  House,  and  others. 

Elizabeth  City  is  at  the  southern  junction  with  State  30  (see  tour  jA) 
and  the  junction  with  State  170  (see  tour  iB). 

At  37  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  side  road. 

Left  on  this  road,  which  is  paved  for  8  miles  and  then  graded,  to  the  peninsula 
known  as  DURANTS  NECK,  between  Little  and  Perquimans  (per-quim'-ans)  Rivers. 
The  peninsula  was  named  for  George  Durant,  whose  land  title  is  the  oldest  recorded 
in  the  State. 

NEW  HOPE,  10  m.  (153  pop.),  a  farm  settlement,  adjoins  the  Hecklefield  Farm, 
estate  of  Capt.  John  Hecklefield,  prominent  in  the  affairs  of  the  Albemarle  Colony.  The 
Albemarle    assembly   and    the   county   courts   frequently    met    here    in    the    early    1700's. 

At  16  m.  is  the  Leigh  Mansion,  a  Greek  Revival  house  built  in  1825  by  Col.  James 
Leigh.  The  estate  includes  a  major  portion  of  the  1,000-acre  Durant  grant,  which  has 
been  reduced  to  about  850  acres  by  the  encroachment  of  the  surrounding  waters. 

This  mansion,  of  red  brick  burned  on  the  place  by  slaves,  has  a  double-gallery  porch 
front  and  rear.  The  Doric  columns  of  the  portico  are  white  and  the  steps  are  marble. 
The  paneled  ballroom  on  the  third  floor  is  lighted  at  each  end  by  a  triple  window 
crowned  with  an  elliptical  fanlight.  The  separate  kitchen  is  reached  by  a  balustraded 
walk  raised  on  brick  piers.  Tradition  says  that  recalcitrant  slaves  were  punished  in  the 
gloomy  depths  of  the  cellar. 

In  the  yard  is  a  stone  slab,  said  to  be  the  gravestone  of  Seth  Sothel,  North  Carolina's 
"most  despised  Governor."  Appointed  in  1678,  he  was  captured  by  pirates  on  his  way  to 


T  O  U  R     I  279 

Carolina.  He  took  office  in  1683  and  served  until  1689  when  he  was  seized  and  banished 
by  the  colonists  who  had  become  incensed  over  his  corrupt  conduct.  Buried  in  the  mud 
under  an  old  elm  tree  is  a  slab  supposed  to  have  marked  George  Durant's  grave. 

WINFALL,  38  m.  (16  alt.,  426  pop.),  is  a  village  in  the  bend  of  the  high- 
way, shaded  by  ancient  trees  arching  overhead,  its  calm  undisturbed  by  the 
busy  hum  of  its  eight-stack  sawmill. 

Right  from  Winfall  on  State  37  is  BELVIDERE,  6  m.  (101  pop.),  a  village  settled 
by  Quakers  in  the  early  18th  century.  Strong  believers  in  education,  the  Quakers  founded 
here  one  of  the  State's  earliest  schools,  Belvidere  Academy. 

South  of  Winfall  US  17  crosses  the  broad  Perquimans  River,  which  rises 
in  the  Great  Dismal  Swamp  and  flows  southeast  to  Albemarle  Sound.  The 
hard-surfaced  highway  is  built  on  what  was  formerly  a  corduroy  road  that 
had  as  its  foundation  a  causeway  placed  by  the  Indians.  The  road  is  bulwarked 
on  both  sides  by  curved  sheets  of  corrugated  iron,  bombproofs  salvaged  from 
World  War  supplies.  The  causeway  leads  to  a  modern  drawbridge.  As  early 
as  1784  there  was  a  floating  bridge  here  supported  on  whisky  barrels. 

HERTFORD,  40  m.  (15  alt.,  1,914  pop.),  seat  of  Perquimans  County,  is 
a  peninsula  town  in  the  bend  of  the  river.  It  was  first  called  Phelps  Point  for 
the  owner  of  the  site,  and  was  a  port  of  entry  as  early  as  1701.  When  incor- 
porated in  1758  it  was  renamed  for  the  Marquis  of  Hertford. 

The  Edmundson-Fox  Memorial  (L),  south  of  the  bridge,  erected  (1929) 
by  the  North  Carolina  Yearly  Meeting  of  Friends,  bears  an  inscription  claim- 
ing that  here  was  held  "the  first  religious  service  on  record  in  Carolina."  This 
claim  ignores  the  baptisms  of  Manteo  and  Virginia  Dare  on  Roanoke  Island 
{see  tour  1 A  and  religion)  and  services  in  Charleston,  S.  C. 

In  1672  William  Edmundson,  follower  of  George  Fox,  the  founder  of  the 
Religious  Society  of  Friends,  preached  a  sermon  to  the  settlers  on  the  Wor\ 
of  God.  In  September  of  the  same  year  Fox  spent  18  days  "in  the  north  of 
Carolina"  and  had  many  "meetings  among  the  people." 

The  Perquimans  County  Courthouse,  Main  St.,  is  a  Georgian  Colonial 
structure  of  kiln-burned  brick  with  a  columned  entrance  portico  and  a  clock 
cupola  above  the  fanlighted  window  in  the  gable.  The  original  building, 
probably  constructed  in  1731  or  earlier,  was  of  one  story  with  the  jury  room 
detached.  In  18 18  the  Masons  added  the  second  story  in  return  for  which 
they  were  allowed  the  use  of  the  large  upper  room.  In  an  1890  remodeling, 
extensive  changes  were  made.  In  1932  Clinton  W.  Toms,  tobacco-manufac- 
turing executive,  made  possible  restoration  of  the  building.  Small-paned 
windows,  interior  paneling,  and  heavy  inside  wooden  shutters  were  again 
installed,  the  clock  cupola  was  added,  and  the  original  worn  red  brick  were 
painted  a  warm  ivory. 

County  records  are  unbroken  from  the  first  deed  book,  dated  1685,  and 
include  the  Durant  deed,  oldest  on  record  in  North  Carolina.  On  Mar.  1, 
1661  (1662),  George  Durant  acquired  from  Kilcocanen,  chief  of  the  Yeopim 
Indians,  a  tract  of  land  known  as  Wecocomicke.  Durant's  deed  mentions  a 
still  earlier  purchase  of  adjoining  lands  by  Samuel  Pricklove,  giving  support 
to  the  contention  that  the  earliest  permanent  settlements  in  the  State  were 


280  TOURS 

on  Durants  Neck.  However,  there  is  evidence  of  an  earlier  settlement  be- 
tween the  Roanoke  and  Chowan  Rivers. 

The  Site  of  the  Old  Eagle  Tavern,  which  was  razed  in  1920,  covered 
six  lots  in  the  heart  of  town.  It  is  known  to  have  existed  as  early  as  1754. 
George  Washington  was  supposedly  a  guest  while  in  the  vicinity  surveying 
the  Dismal  Swamp  Canal.  Tradition  says  William  Hooper,  signer  of  the 
Declaration  of  Independence,  once  lived  here. 

The  Harvey  Home  (private),  Main  St.,  built  before  1800,  has  a  two-story 
porch  fronted  by  tall  columns.  The  hand-hewn  heart  pine  timbers  are  fas- 
tened with  wooden  pegs.  Beneath  an  old  tree  shading  the  house  is  a  spot 
believed  to  be  Kilcocanen's  Grave.  The  sidewalk,  flanked  by  markers, 
crosses  the  grave. 

Left  from  the  center  of  Hertford,  at  the  point  where  US  17  swings  R.,  a  branch  road, 
paved  for  half  its  length,  runs  into  HARVEYS  NECK,  a  peninsula  12  miles  long.  Here 
was  the  Colonial  seat  of  John  Harvey,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1679)  and  Thomas 
Harvey,  Governor  (1694-99).  The  latter's  son,  Col.  John  Harvey  (1725-75),  was  known 
as  the  Father  of  the  Revolution  in  North  Carolina  because  of  his  activities  in  behalf 
of  independence  while  speaker  of  the  assembly,  a  post  which  he  held  at  his  death.  Colonel 
Harvey,  known  as  Bold  John,  remarkable  for  his  decision  of  character  and  strong 
political   principles,   was  moderator  of   the  First  Provincial   Congress    (see  new  bern). 

At  9-7  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  lane  leading  (L)  to  Ashland  (visitors  welcome),  a 
well-preserved  old  frame  plantation  house  built  in  1775  by  John  Skinner.  The  portico 
columns  are  of  the  Ionic  order  and  the  house  is  notable  for  the  gracefully  arched  masonry 
cf  the  foundation  and  massive  end  chimneys.  There  are  four  rooms  in  the  arcaded  base- 
ment. 

At  10.5  m.  are  the  Ruins  of  Belgrade  Mansion,  home  of  the  Harvey  family  until 
burned  during  the  War  between  the  States.  In  the  family  burying  ground  is  the  Grave  of 
Gov.  Thomas  Harvey.  The  tombstone  bears  the  date  1729.  Thomas  and  Miles  Harvey, 
also  buried  here,  were  members  of  the  1776  North  Carolina  General  Assembly. 

EDENTON,  53  m.  (16  alt.,  3,563  pop.)  (see  edenton). 

Points  of  Interest:  St.  Paul's  Church,  Beverly  Hall,  Cupola  House,  Chowan  Courthouse, 
Edenton  Green,   Peanut-Processing   Plants,  and    others. 

1.  Right  from  Edenton  on  paved  State  32  which  follows  the  old  stagecoach  route  known 
for  years  as  the  Virginia  Rd. 

At  WINGFIELD,  10  m.,  on  the  banks  of  the  Chowan  River,  are  the  Ruins  of  the 
Union  Fort  captured  and  partially  destroyed  in  1863.  Wingfield  plantation  house,  burned 
during  the  same  engagement,  was  the  Colonial  seat  (1760)  of  Richard  Brownrigg, 
pioneer  in  the  section's  fishing  industry. 

At  BANDON,  15  m.,  was  the  home,  built  in  1757,  of  Daniel  Earle,  Revolutionary 
rector  of  old  St.  Paul's  (see  edenton).  He  conducted  here  an  early  classical  school  for 
boys.  Bandon,  named  for  the  Earle  estate  in  Ireland,  was  the  site  of  a  Chowanoke  Indian 
village;  many  relics  have  been  found  in  mounds  nearby. 

2.  East  from  Edenton  on  Water  St.  and  across  Johnston's  Bridge  to  the  unpaved  Soundside 
Rd.;  R.  on  this  road  to  Hayes  (private),  0.5  m.,  in  a  beautiful  grove  (R)  on  the  edge 
of  Edenton  Bay.  The  1,500-acre  plantation  was  acquired  in  1765  by  Samuel  Johnston 
(I733"I8i6),  and  he  built  the  mansion  in  1801.  It  was  named  for  the  estate  of  Sir 
Walter  Raleigh  in  England.  Ivy  culled  from  Hayes  in  England  flourishes  here  as  well  as 
in  St.  Paul's  Churchyard  and  on  the  Chowan  Courthouse.  Johnston  served  as  Governor 
(1787-89)  and  was  the  first  U.S.  Senator  from  North  Carolina.  During  his  lifetime 
Hayes  was  a  social,  intellectual,  and  political  center. 

The  two-story  central   section    of  the   house   is  surmounted   with   a   large   cupola   and 


TOUR    I  201 

is  connected  to  the  one-story  wings  by  curved,  covered  passages.  One  of  the  smaller 
buildings  contains  the  library,  the  other  the  kitchen.  The  southwest  elevation,  facing  the 
bay,  has  a  two-story  Doric  portico  supported  upon  shallow  brick  arches  and  ornamented 
at  the  second  floor  with  a  wrought-iron  railing.  The  northeast  elevation,  five  bays 
in  width,  has  a  small  semicircular  portico.  Fanlights  and  side  lights  grace  the  doorway. 
The  shutters  are  permanently  fixed  over  the  upper  halves  of  the  windows  to  lessen  the 
sun  glare.  The  house  contains  steel  engravings  and  portraits  by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds 
and  Thomas  Sully,  and  a  5,000-volume  library  whose  catalogue,  written  with  a  quill 
pen,  looks  like  an  exquisite  engraving. 

The  Soundside  Road  is  believed  to  have  been  made  by  early  settlers  along  the  course 
of  an  old  Indian  trail.  Doubling  and  redoubling  upon  itself,  it  passes  several  plantations 
that  have  existed  since  Colonial  times,  and  at  the  mouth  of  Yeopim  River  reaches 
Drummonds  Point  {fishing  boats  for  hire),  8  m.,  named  for  Gov.  William  Drummond. 
In  the  mouth  of  the  river  is  BATTS  {BATZ)  GRAVE  or  BATTS  ISLAND.  An  early 
deed  (1696)  of  Chowan  Precinct  records  the  sale  of  27  acres  known  as  Batts  Grave,  but 
tide  erosion  has  reduced  it  to  but  one  acre.  Early  in  the  18th  century  it  belonged  to 
George  Durant,  Jr.  The  Indians  called  the  island  Kalola  for  the  sea  gulls  that  alone 
disturbed  its  solitude  until  Jesse  Batts,  a  hunter  and  trapper,  came  here.  Batts  fell  in  love 
with  Kickowanna,  daughter  of  a  Chowanoke  chief,  Kilcanoo.  She  returned  his  love, 
spurning  the  suit  of  Pamunky,  chief  of  the  Chasamonpeaks.  For  his  bravery  in  helping 
defeat  the  Chasamonpeaks,  Batts  was  adopted  into  the  tribe.  Thereafter  the  couple 
lived  on  the  upper  waters,  but  Batts  made  frequent  visits  to  his  island  home.  Kickowanna 
often  went  in  her  canoe  to  visit  him  there.  One  night  in  a  raging  storm  she  was  drowned. 
Batts  never  left  the  island  again  and  died  a  brokenhearted  man. 

South  of  Edenton  on  US  17  (L)  at  Pembroke  Creek,  53.5  m.,  is  a  U.  S. 
Fish  Hatchery  {open),  where  shad,  herring,  bass,  and  other  fishes  are 
propagated.  Here  is  the  Site  of  the  Home  of  Stephen  Cabarrus  (1754- 
1808),  a  Frenchman  who  came  to  America  during  the  Revolution.  He  be- 
came a  member  of  the  North  Carolina  General  Assembly  in  1783,  and  for 
10  of  the  15  years  that  he  served  was  speaker  of  the  lower  house.  He  was  z 
member  of  the  first  board  of  trustees  of  the  University  of  North  Carolina.  A 
North  Carolina  county  and  a  street  in  Raleigh  bear  his  name. 

South  of  EMPEROR,  60  m.,  the  highway  crosses  the  Chowan  River 
Bridge.  At  the  southern  end  of  the  bridge  is  EDENHOUSE  POINT,  61.5 
m.,  near  the  Site  of  the  Home  of  Charles  Eden,  proprietary  Governor 
of  North  Carolina,  who  died  in  1722  and  was  buried  in  a  grove  of  willows 
nearby;  the  Governor's  remains  were  exhumed  and  reburied  in  St.  Paul's 
Churchyard  (see  edenton). 

There  is  some  evidence  that  the  earliest  permanent  settlement  in  North 
Carolina  was  on  a  point  of  land  between  the  mouths  of  the  Chowan  and 
Roanoke  Rivers,  and  that  some  form  of  government  existed  before  the  Durant 
purchase.  The  first  recorded  exploration  to  the  Chowan  River  was  John 
Pory's  in  1622.  In  1653  the  Virginia  assembly  granted  to  Roger  Green,  who 
had  just  explored  the  region,  1,000  acres  for  himself  and  10,000  acres  for 
the  first  100  people  who  would  settle  on  the  Roanoke  River  south  of  the 
Chowan  "next  to  those  persons  who  have  had  a  former  grant."  There  is  no 
record  that  Green's  grant  was  ever  settled,  but  its  language,  according  to 
Connor,  the  historian,  "leads  irresistibly  to  the  conclusion  that  when  it  was 
issued  there  were  already  settlers  along  the  waters  of  the  Chowan."  On  the 
Nicholas  Comberford  map  of  1657  is  shown  a  neatly  drawn  house  at  the 
west  end  of  Albemarle  Sound,  marked  "Batt's  House."  This  lends  weight  to 


282  TOURS 

an  entry  in  George  Fox's  Journal  (1672),  in  which  he  mentions  meeting  in 
Connie-Oak  (Edenton)  Bay  "Nathaniel  Batts,  who  had  been  Governor  of 
Roanoke.  He  went  by  the  name  of  Captain  Batts,  and  had  been  a  rude,  des- 
perate man."  Batts  may  have  been  appointed  Governor  of  South  Albemarle 
by  Sir  William  Berkeley,  a  Lord  Proprietor  and  Governor  of  Virginia. 

Left  from  Edenhouse  Point  on  a  dirt  road  to  EDENHOUSE  BEACH  (bat  hi  fig,  boating, 
fishing),  1  m.,  a  quiet  resort  on  the  banks  of  the  Chowan,  close  by  Albemarle  Sound. 

At  63  m.  US  17  crosses  Salmon  Creek.  South  of  the  bridge,  on  both  sides 
of  the  highway,  is  Mill  Landing  Farm,  an  estate  Lord  Duckenfield  held  by 
grant  from  the  Crown.  The  only  estate  building  remaining  is  an  old  mill 
erected  in  1710,  which  still  grinds  corn  for  the  neighborhood. 

WINDSOR,  74  m.  (10  alt.,  1,425  pop.),  on  the  Cashie  (cah-shy')  River, 
was  a  port  of  entry  before  the  War  between  the  States.  Merchandise  was 
relayed  from  here  to  the  interior  by  wagons  over  the  old  Halifax  Road.  The 
town  boasted  a  Million  Dollar  Bank,  branch  of  the  North  State  Bank.  The 
three  main  streets  are  King,  Queen,  and  York,  and  the  cross  streets  are 
named  for  the  various  Lords  Proprietors,  according  to  the  plan  drawn  in 
England.  Windsor  became  the  seat  of  Bertie  County  in  1750. 

Surrounding  plantations  grow  cotton,  tobacco,  peanuts,  and  truck  produce. 
The  town  has  sawmills,  barrel  mills,  and  peanut  and  tobacco  warehouses. 
Fishing  with  seine,  net,  and  hook  and  line  is  available  in  the  vicinity.  Game 
includes  deer,  squirrel,  quail,  wild  goose,  and  duck.  Raccoon  hunting  on  the 
Cashie  is  popular  with  local  sportsmen. 

The  Site  of  Windsor  Castle,  Belmont  Ave.,  is  on  a  hill  overlooking  the 
town.  The  castle  was  an  eight-room  log  house  built  by  William  Gray,  who 
named  it  for  the  royal  residence  in  England.  The  present  house  (private), 
near  the  site  of  the  earlier  house,  was  erected  in  1855  by  Patrick  Henry  Win- 
ston, whose  descendants  still  own  it.  The  stately  white  columns  and  broad 
verandas  are  characteristic  of  ante-bellum  southern  dwellings. 

Rosefield  Homestead  (L),  at  the  southern  limits  of  the  town  on  Wind- 
sor's other  hill,  overlooks  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Cashie.  It  was  named 
for  the  wild  roses  that  once  bloomed  there,  and  was  the  original  home  of 
John  Gray,  who  donated  the  town  site  in  1722.  The  frame  house,  built  in 
1856,  has  not  been  altered  since  1861. 

Right  from  Windsor  on  State  308  to  Hope  House,  3.5  m.,  the  abandoned  home  of 
David  Stone,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1808-10).  It  was  once  the  show  place  of  the 
county,  with  a  secret  stairway,  spacious  ballroom,  gambling  rooms,  and  solid  wooden 
gutters. 

South  of  Windsor  the  highway  runs  through  green  swampland,  spicy 
with  the  odor  of  pine  and  cedar,  and  in  spring  and  early  summer  fragrant 
with  the  blooms  of  wild  grape,  sweetbrier  rose,  and  honeysuckle. 

At  81.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  marked  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  tract  known  as  the  INDIAN  WOODS,  5  m.,  a  reservation 
set  up  in  1717  for  the  Tuscarora  Indians  remaining  after  the  war  of  1711-13.  They 
lived  here  until   1803  when  they  entered  into  a  99-year  lease  with  some  of  the  settlers 


TOUR     I  203 

and  left  to  join  their  kinsmen  in  New  York.  About  1857  their  descendants  came  from 
New  York  to  make  final  settlement  with  the  heirs  of  the  lessees. 

US  17  crosses  Conine  Swamp  and  the  Roanoke  River  over  a  long  bridge 
and  viaduct.  Framed  by  hedges  of  honeysuckle,  the  viaduct  passes  over 
tangled  swamp  where  gnarled  and  moss-draped  cypresses  shadow  clumps  of 
lush  ferns. 

WILLIAMSTON,  87  m.  (76  alt.,  2,731  pop.),  seat  of  Martin  County,  lies 
on  the  western  bank  of  the  Roanoke  River.  First  called  Skewarky,  the 
town  was  later  named  in  honor  of  Col.  William  Williams  of  the  Martin 
County  militia.  The  county  was  named  for  Josiah  Martin,  North  Carolina's 
last  royal  Governor  (1771-76).  A  port  of  entry  before  the  Revolutionary  War, 
the  town  had  an  old  courthouse  built  in  1774  on  stilts  over  the  river.  To  enter 
the  courthouse  people  climbed  ladders  from  their  boats.  When  court  was 
declared  in  session  the  ladders  were  removed  and  no  one  was  permitted  to 
leave.  Chief  amusements  during  court  week  were  oyster  roasts  and  fist  fights. 

Williamston,  a  tobacco-marketing  town,  has  also  a  peanut  factory,  fer-  [ 

tilizer  plants,  lumber  mills,  and  commercial  fisheries.  l 

The  Asa  Biggs  Home  {private),  Church  St.,  is  a  square  structure  distin- 
guished by  a  railed  balcony  under  each  second-story  window.  Judge  Biggs 
(181 1-78)  was  prominent  in  the  State's  political  life  and  held,  among  his 
many  offices,  Federal  and  Confederate  district  judgeships. 

Right  from  Williamston  on  State  125  to  Rainbow  Banks,  10  m.,  site  of  an  old  fort 
where  Union  gunboats  were  driven  from  the  Roanoke  River.  | 

Section  b.  WILLIAMSTON  to  SOUTH  CAROLINA  LINE;  i9y  m.  US  17 

In  this  section  are  relics  of  Provincial  rule,  ivy-grown  Colonial  houses,  and 
forts  thrown  up  during  the  War  between  the  States.  The  route  runs  through 
forests  of  longleaf  and  loblolly  pine,  traverses  cypress  swamps  where  black- 
water  creeks  meander,  and  crosses  broad  rivers  that  empty  into  island-bound, 
brackish  sounds  to  the  east. 

Forests  and  fields  run  with  game;  most  of  the  streams  teem  with  fish. 
Several  State  parks,  game  preserves,  and  resorts  are  close  at  hand.  Rivers  and 
sounds  offer  boating,  fishing,  and  bathing;  beaches  for  surf  bathing  line  the 
outer  banks. 

South  of  WILLIAMSTON,  0  m.,  US  17  passes  fields  planted  with  pota- 
toes, tobacco,  corn,  cotton,  peanuts,  and  garden  produce.  Bright-leaf  tobacco 
is  the  principal  crop.  Almost  every  farm  has  a  small  fruit  orchard.  At  10  m. 
the  route  crosses  Great  Swamp,  overgrown  with  brush,  scrub  pine,  and  scat- 
tered gum  and  cypress. 

WASHINGTON,  23  m.  (11  alt.,  7,035  pop.),  seat  of  Beaufort  County,  is 
on  the  north  bank  of  the  Tar-Pamlico  River.  Narrow  streets,  parallel  with 
or  at  right  angles  to  the  river,  indicate  an  18th-century  plan,  though  the 
town,  almost  wiped  out  by  two  fires  in  1864,  has  few  old  houses.  The  river 
laps    at   foundations    of    mercantile    establishments    on    Main    Street    and 


284  TOURS 

borders  yards  and  gardens.  In  spring  the  farther  shore,  covered  with 
clematis,  called  virgins-bower  by  some  of  the  older  inhabitants,  is  a  mass  of 
purple  bloom. 

The  scuppernong  grape  and  related  varieties  are  indigenous  to  the  region. 
The  Meish  grape  was  developed  in  Beaufort  County  by  Albert  Meish,  who 
came  from  Westphalia,  Germany.  Washington  is  a  marketing  center  for 
cotton,  tobacco,  and  garden  produce. 

Originally  Beaufort  County  was  part  of  Pamtecough  (Pamticoe)  Precinct 
of  the  County  of  Albemarle,  which  in  1696  became  the  Great  County  of 
Bath.  Pamtecough  was  the  name  of  a  tribe  of  Indians  in  the  region.  In  1705 
Bath  was  divided,  the  portion  north  of  Pamtecough  River  constituting 
Pamtecough  Precinct.  The  name  was  changed  to  Beaufort  in  1712,  honoring 
Henry  Somerset,  Duke  of  Beaufort,  who  had  inherited  the  proprietary  rights 
of  the  Duke  of  Albemarle. 

On  Nov.  30,  1 77 1,  the  general  assembly  authorized  James  Bonner  to  estab- 
lish a  town  at  the  Forks  of  Tar  River,  which  Colonel  Bonner  later  named 
for  his  commander  in  chief.  The  George  Washington  Bicentennial  Commis- 
sion established  the  fact  that  of  the  422  cities  and  towns  in  the  Nation  named 
for  George  Washington,  this  town  was  the  first.  Earliest  recorded  mention  of 
the  place  as  Washington  is  in  an  order  of  the  council  of  safety  at  Halifax 
dated  Oct.  1,  1776. 

The  Beaufort  County  Courthouse,  SW.  corner  2nd  and  Market  Sts.,  is 
a  square  two-story  structure  of  brick  painted  white,  built  about  1800.  A  mod- 
ern annex  in  the  rear  is  of  red  brick.  The  clock  in  the  cupola  antedates  the 
building.  In  the  courthouse  is  a  will,  inscribed  in  French  and  dated  1820, 
which  indicates  that  Col.  Louis  Taillade  lived  in  Washington  at  that  time. 
Taillade  accompanied  Napoleon  from  Elba  to  France  when  the  ex-Emperor 
attempted  to  regain  his  lost  domains. 

The  Johnston  House  {private),  Market  St.,  a  two-story  frame  house  with 
wide  porch,  notable  for  its  Georgian  doorway  and  exterior  front  stair,  was 
occupied  in  1810  by  Thomas  Harvey  Myers  I,  whose  wife,  Margaret,  was 
the  daughter  of  Dr.  Gustavus  Brown,  personal  physician  to  George  Wash- 
ington. 

St.  Peter's  Episcopal  Church,  NE.  corner  Bonner  and  Main  Sts.,  is  a 
vine-clad  Gothic  Revival  structure  erected  in  1868.  It  is  of  weathered  brick 
with  a  large  square  tower.  The  original  wooden  church  (1822)  was  destroyed 
in  1864  by  a  fire  that  started  when  a  citizen  burned  valuable  documents  to 
prevent  their  being  taken  by  Federals.  As  the  tower  burned,  heat  caused  the 
bell  to  toll  until  it  fell  from  its  supports.  After  the  bronze  had  melted  an  old 
Negro  carried  it  in  a  wheelbarrow  to  his  home.  After  the  war,  he  returned 
the  metal,  and  proceeds  from  its  sale  were  added  to  the  building  fund.  Fed- 
eral troops  burned  the  town  later  in  the  same  year. 

The  Myers  House  (c.  1814)  and  the  Telfair  House  (c.  1818)  {private), 
Water  St.  next  to  the  NE.  corner  of  Bonner  St.,  are  square  old  town  houses 
with  stoops  close  to  the  street,  after  the  New  England  fashion.  They  are  of 
frame  construction,  two  stories  on  a  brick  foundation,  and  topped  with  a 
shingle  roof.  During  the  War  between  the  States  a  shell   passed  entirely 


TOUR     I  285 

through  the  Telfair  house.  Both  houses  are  owned  by  descendants  of  the 
builders. 

Washington  Field  Museum  {open  2-5,  j-10  p.m.  daily),  Charlotte  and 
2nd  Sts.,  a  log  cabin  in  a  grassy  yard,  was  founded  in  1923  by  young  people 
who  refer  to  it  as  "the  Bug  House  Laboratory."  Exhibits  include  birds,  in- 
sects, frogs,  reptiles,  fossils,  and  minerals  of  local  origin,  together  with  some 
historical  items. 

On  W.  Main  St.  is  the  Dimock.  House  {private),  onetime  home  of  Dr. 
Susan  Dimock  (1847-75),  first  North  Carolina  woman  licensed  as  a  phy- 
sician. After  being  denied  admission  to  Harvard  Medical  School,  she  studied 
at  Zurich  and  in  Vienna.  Upon  her  return  to  America  she  became  physician 
for  the  Hospital  for  Women  and  Children  in  Boston,  where  a  street  is  named 
in  her  honor. 

The  De  Mille  House  {now  a  tourist  home),  SE.  corner  Bridge  and  2nd 
Sts.,  is  a  three-story  red  brick  house  with  a  one-story  front  porch  built  about 
1830  by  Thomas  De  Mille,  one  of  the  first  vestrymen  of  St.  Peter's.  His 
great-grandsons,  Cecil  and  William,  have  attained  prominence  in  the  motion- 
picture  industry.  The  latter  was  born  in  this  house. 

The  Brown  House  {private),  NW.  corner  2nd  and  Washington  Sts.,  is  a 
two-story  frame  house  distinguished  by  curving  porch  steps  at  either  end 
of  the  square-columned,  one-story  front  porch.  The  first-floor  windows  ex- 
tend down  to  the  floor  and  all  windows  have  louvered  shutters.  Modillions 
ornament  the  level  cornices  of  the  porch  and  of  the  hip  roof.  The  house 
was  used  as  a  hospital  when  Federal  troops  occupied  the  town;  soldiers 
destroyed  all  but  one  of  several  marble  mantelpieces. 

A  square  frame  house  painted  tan  with  red  trim,  219  Harvey  St.,  was 
formerly  at  242  E.  Main  St.  This  is  the  Birthplace  of  Josephus  Daniels, 
Secretary  of  the  Navy  (19 13-21);  Ambassador  to  Mexico  (1933-  ).  Also 
born  in  Washington  was  Churchill  C.  Cambreleng  (1 786-1 862),  Minister 
to  Russia  during  the  Van  Buren  administration. 

Washington  is  at  the  junction  with  US  264  {see  tour  jj). 

South  of  Washington  US  17  crosses  the  Pamlico  River  and  passes  Rodman 
Quarters,  an  ante-bellum  plantation  bequeathed  by  John  Gray  Blount  to 
his  grandson,  Judge  W.  B.  Rodman,  who,  after  the  war,  found  it  so  desolated 
from  Union  and  Confederate  occupation  that  he  never  went  there  again. 

CHOCOWINITY  {MARSDEN),  26  m.  (40  alt.,  150  pop.),  is  a  village 
junction  for  the  Norfolk  Southern  R.R.  Here  is  Trinity  Episcopal  Church, 
a  small,  square,  one-story  frame  building  painted  white  and  topped  with  a 
cross.  The  church  was  founded  in  1775  by  the  Rev.  (Parson)  Nathaniel 
Blount. 

Chocowinity  is  at  the  junction  with  US  264  {see  tour  2j). 

At  VANCEBORO,  41  m.  (24  alt.,  742  pop.),  is  the  Craven  County  Farm 
Life  School,  educational  center  of  the  section. 


286  TOURS 

In  BRIDGETON,  56  m.  (8  alt.,  721  pop.),  on  the  Neuse  River,  are 
lumber  mills  and  a  crate  factory. 

Left  from  Bridgeton  on  paved  State  302  through  forest  lands,  swamps,  and  potato 
fields  is  GRANTSBORO,  11  m.  (500  pop.),  a  shipping  point  for  Irish  potatoes,  at  the 
junction  with  paved  State  306.  Right  12  m.  on  State  306  to  MINNESOTT  BEACH 
(small  hotel,  cottages,  overnight  cabins;  trout  and  croaker  fishing;  duc\,  goose,  and 
brant  shooting),  on  the  Neuse  River. 

At  15  m.  on  State  302  is  BAYBORO  (468  pop.),  seat  of  Pamlico  County.  Bay  River 
is  a  link  in  the  Intracoastal  Waterway.  Commercial  fishing,  oyster  culture,  and  the 
raising  of  Irish  potatoes  are  the  principal  occupations. 

US  17  makes  a  sharp  L.  turn  across  the  Neuse  River  bridge. 

NEW  BERN,  58  m.  (18  alt.,  11,981  pop.)  {see  new  bern). 

Points  of  Interest:  Smallwood-Ward  House,  Slover-Guion  House,  John  Wright  Stanly 
House  {public  library),  First  Presbyterian  Church,  Tryon  Palace,  and  others. 

New  Bern  is  at  the  junction  with  US  70  {see  tour  28). 

At  70  m.  (L)  is  the  Foscue  House,  an  old  brick  plantation  dwelling  built 
in  the  early  18th  century.  House  and  lands  are  traditionally  haunted. 

POLLOCKSVILLE,  71  m.  (13  alt.,  357  pop.),  on  the  banks  of  the  nar- 
row Trent  River,  was  named  for  Col.  Thomas  Pollock  {see  new  bern),  a 
large  landowner  and  proprietary  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1712-14, 
1722).  In  Colonial  days  this  town  was  surrounded  by  plantations  on  which 
remain  a  few  houses  of  faded  splendor. 

At  73  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  12. 

Right  on  State  12  is  TRENTON,  10  m.  (28  alt.,  500  pop.),  seat  of  Jones  County, 
built  half  around  Brock  Mill  Pond  where  huge  gnarled  cypresses,  shrouded  with  Spanish 
moss,  overhang  unruffled  blue  water.  The  mill  has  operated  continuously  since  before 
the  War  between  the  States.  The  old  courthouse  was  burned   by  Union  troops  in   1863. 

Great  Dover  Swamp  lies  in  the  northern  section  of  the  county  and  Whiteoak  Swamp 
in  the  south-central  portion.  Small  game  and  fish  are  plentiful,  and  deer  thrive  in  the 
eastern  savannas.  A  few  lumber  mills  comprise  the  sole  industry. 

When  George  Washington  visited  Trenton  in  1791,  he  was  entertained  at  the  Old 
Shingle  House  (private),  then  a  Colonial  tavern.  The  shingles  were  removed  when  it 
was  remodeled  into  a  dwelling.  Pegs  were  used  in  constructing  the  Thomas  Webber 
House  (private),  Jones  St.,  a  modernized  two-story  wooden  building  where  the  first 
court  in  Jones  County  was  held  in  1784. 

MAYSVILLE,  78  m.  (41  alt.,  797  pop.),  depends  on  farming  and  lumber 
milling.  In  the  vicinity  are  broad  savannas  and  shallow  ponds  where  at- 
tempts were  made  to  raise  rice  in  Colonial  days.  The  border  of  the  CROAT- 
AN  NATIONAL  FOREST  {see  national  forests  and  tour  28),  first  to  be 
created  in  coastal  North  Carolina,  is  near  the  eastern  edge  of  the  town. 

1.  Left  from  Maysville  on  the  Catfish  Rd.  to  CATFISH  LAKE,  3  m.,  one  of  five  lakes 
within  the  forest.  Deer  and  other  game  occur  in  the  bog  lands  of  this  LAKES  POCOSIN 
AREA.  Pocosin  is  derived  from  an  Algonquian  term  for  a  swamp  or  dismal.  The 
permanently  saturated  peaty  soil  is  overlain  with  sand  or  sandy  loam  bearing  a  sparse 
growth  of  trees,  mostly  black  pine,  and  a  dense  undergrowth  of  evergreen  shrubs  and 
vines.  In  places  the  streams  are  coffee-colored. 


TOUR     I  287 

2.  Left  from  Maysville  on  the  Maysville-Swansboro  Rd.  to  Yellowhouse  Field,  4.5  m., 
site  of  the  home  of  Col.  John  Starkey  (d.  1765),  staunch  defender  of  the  colonists' 
rights  and  pioneer  advocate  of  a  public  school  system.  At  7  m.  is  the  three-story  frame 
Home  of  Daniel  Russell  {private),  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1 897-1901).  Governor 
Russell,  a  kinsman  of  Colonel  Starkey,  is  buried  on  Hickory  Hill  nearby. 

JACKSONVILLE,  95  m.  (23  alt.,  783  pop.),  seat  of  Onslow  County, 
stands  on  baylike  New  River.  Dominating  the  village  from  the  small  central 
square  is  the  red  brick  Onslow  County  Courthouse  (1904).  The  earliest 
mention  of  Wandand's  Ferry,  which  preceded  Jacksonville,  is  in  a  record  j 

of  court  held  there  in  July  1757. 

Onslow  was  formed  (1734)  from  the  Great  County  of  Bath,  and  named 
for  Arthur  Onslow,  then  Speaker  of  the  British  House  of  Commons.  Most  \ 

of  the  settlers  were  English  and  German.  Spanish  buccaneers  and  pirates 
beset  the  region  in  the  1740's.  j 

This  is  one  of  the  few  coastal  counties  of  the  State  whose  mainland  bor- 
ders the  ocean  without  an  intervening  sound,  and  it  gives  its  name  to  the 
long  curve  between  Beaufort  Harbor  and  Cape  Fear.  Holly  Shelter  Swamp 
is  in  the  southern  portion.  New  River,  whose  upper  reaches  are  lost  in 
Whiteoak  Swamp,  is  the  only  large  river  in  North  Carolina  with  headwaters 
and  mouth  in  the  same  county.  It  is  5  miles  wide  at  the  mouth,  where  exten- 
sive oyster  beds  are  under  cultivation.  New  River  oysters  are  large,  grow 
singly  instead  of  in  clusters,  are  finely  flavored,  and  command  a  high  price 
in  the  markets.  Tobacco  is  the  chief  money  crop. 

South  of  Jacksonville  US  17  runs  through  well-wooded  country  with  few 
farms.  Natural  gardens  of  wild  flowers  cover  many  acres  displaying  blooms 
every  month  but  January.  Here  grow  insectivorous  pitcher-plants  including 
the  rare  Venus's-flytrap  {see  tour  4). 

FOLKSTONE,  111m.  (69  alt.,  53  pop.),  is  at  the  junction  with  State  38, 
a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  State  38  is  SNEADS  FERRY,  9  m.  (125  pop.),  on  New  River  {limited  accom- 
modations for  fishermen).  A  free  ferry  crosses  to  MARINES,  10  m.  (300  pop.). 

HAMPSTEAD,  129  m.  (56  alt.,  350  pop.),  is  the  scene  of  a  fiddler's  con- 
test each  fall.  The  first  prize  one  year  was  a  mule. 

Left  from  Hampstead  on  a  dirt  road  through  woods  to  the  water,  1  m.  {boats  and 
guides  available).  Topsail  Inlet  nearby  is  a  favorite  spot  for  angling  for  bluefish,  drum, 
sheepshead,  and  mackerel. 

South  of  Hampstead  is  a  marker  (R)  at  the  Washington  Tree,  under 
which  the  first  President  stopped  to  rest  on  his  way  to  Wilmington  in  1791. 

Passing  BAYMEADE,  140  m.,  US  17  enters  a  plantation  where  the 
resinous  sap  of  longleaf  pine  trees  is  gathered,  and  then  along  an  avenue 
of  spreading  moss-strewn  oaks  set  in  thick,  subtropical  vegetation. 

WILMINGTON,  146  m.  (32  alt.,  32,270  pop.)  {see  Wilmington). 

Points  of  Interest:  Customhouse,  Cornwallis  House,  St.  James  Church,  Bellamy 
Mansion,  Hilton  Park,  Greenfield  Park,  and   others. 


200  TOURS 

Wilmington  is  at  the  junction  with  US  421  (see  tour  29). 

Left  from  Wilmington  on  paved  US  76  to  the  junction  with  the  improved  Masonboro 
Loop  Rd.,  5  m.;  R.  4  m.  on  this  road  to  MASONBORO  SOUND.  Here  is  Eschol 
(private),  the  summer  home  (1760)  of  Gen.  Alexander  Lillington,  a  prominent  figure 
before  and  during  the  Revolution  (see  tour  29);  it  is  occupied  by  his  descendants.  All 
along  Masonboro  are  old  summer  homes  and  sites  of  homes  that  served  distinguished 
families  of  the  Colonial  and  Revolutionary  periods.  George  Moore  cut  a  road  from 
his  plantation  at  Rocky  Point  on  the  Northeast  Cape  Fear  River  to  Masonboro,  over 
which  his  wife  and  28  children  traveled  on  horseback  each  summer  to  the  coast. 
Luggage  and  household  belongings  were  transported  the  25  miles  on  the  heads  of 
Negro  slaves.  On  many  of  the  old  estates  are  pans  used  during  the  War  between  the 
States  for  obtaining  salt  from  sea  water.  Signs  indicate  small  resorts  where  roasted 
oysters  are  served  during  the  winter  months. 

From  BRADLEYS  CREEK,  7.5  m.,  Wrightsville  Beach  is  visible  (R)   in  the  distance. 

Airlie  (private;  open  occasionally  in  early  spring),  8  m.,  is  a  rambling  white-painted 
frame  house  with  green  blinds  and  a  green  roof.  A  broad  porch  on  the  southeast  over- 
looks the  sound. 

In  the  landscaped  gardens  of  the  estate  are  found  almost  every  known  variety  of  azalea, 
and  the  Topel  tree,  an  unusual  hybrid  developed  by  R.  A.  Topel,  who  grafted  the  yaupon 
on  another  holly.  It  has  broad,  shiny,  dark-green  leaves  without  sharp  points,  and  clusters 
of  brilliant  red  berries,  about  three  times  the  size  of  the  holly  berry. 

On  the  bank  of  Bradleys  Creek  is  the  Moorings,  the  estate  to  which  Capt.  John 
Newland  Maffitt,  one  of  the  most  noted  of  the  Confederate  blockade  runners,  retired 
after  the  War  between  the  States. 

US  76  runs  along  Wrightsville  Sound  to  Wrightsville  Sound  Station,  9  m. 

Left  from  Wrightsville  Sound  Station  on  a  paved  road  across  the  electric  car  tracks 
to  the  Babies  Hospital  (1928),  a  model  institution. 

US  76  crosses  a  bridge  and  causeway  over  Wrightsville  Sound  to  HARBOR  ISLAND, 
9.5  m.,  where  are  a  public  dance  pavilion  and  summer  headquarters  of  the  Cape  Fear 
Country  Club. 

Wrightsville  Beach,  10  m.  (109  pop.),  a  seashore  resort  (surf,  sound,  and  channel 
bathing;  yachting,  motorhoating,  deep-sea  fishing,  and  dancing),  has  an  average  summer 
population  of  4,000.  Many  business  and  fraternal  organizations  hold  conventions  here. 
There  are  hotels,  inns,  and  cottages  (open  in  summer),  and  headquarters  of  the  Carolina 
Yacht  Club. 

Boats  are  available  for  deep-sea  fishing  or  for  pleasure  trips.  At  the  southern  end  of 
the  island,  reached  both  by  road  and  trolley,  is  Lumina  (dance  pavilion,  picnic  grounds, 
and  bathhouses).  Grounded  upon  the  sands  off  Wrightsville  Beach  are  the  skeletons  of 
the  Emily  and  Fanny  and  Jenny,  Confederate  blockade  runners  scuttled  during  the  War 
between  the  States. 

US  17  crosses  the  Cape  Fear  River  to  EAGLES  ISLAND.  Some  of  the 
numerous  flowers  along  the  causeway  were  brought  here  from  foreign  ports 
in  the  soil  used  as  ballast  by  ships  calling  for  cotton  and  naval  stores.  The 
waterlily,  marsh  bluebell,  marsh  aster,  spiderlily,  marshmallow,  and  numer- 
ous other  plants  thrive  on  the  marshy  land.  The  highway,  along  the  course 
of  the  first  toll  road  authorized  by  the  legislature,  has  been  successively  a 
corduroy,  plank,  and  rock-ballast  road  and  has  carried  traffic  for  two  cen- 
tures.  Bridges  span  Alligator  Creek  and  the  Brunswick  River. 

At  150  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  Old  River  Rd.  (see  tour  iC). 

At  151  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  74  (see  tour  j/«). 

In  SUPPLY,  175  m.  (37  alt.,  no  pop.),  guides  are  available  for  deer  and 
quail  hunting. 


TOUR     I  289 

1.  Left  from  Supply  on  a  dirt  road  to  LOCKWOODS  FOLLY  INLET,  5  m.,  whose 
name  appears  on  maps  as  early  as  1671.  Lockwood  probably  came  from  Bermuda, 
and  the  name  recalls  his  foolhardiness  in  starting  a  settlement  exposed  to  both  sea  and 
Indians;  it  was  promptly  destroyed  by  the  latter.  The  beach  reveals  the  skeletons  of 
several  Confederate  blockade  runners  scuttled  when  cornered  by  Federal  gunboats,  or 
sunk  by  gunfire;  among  them  are  those  of  the  Spunky,  Georgiana  McCaw,  Bendigo, 
Elizabeth,  Ranger,  Dare,  and  Vesta. 

i 

1.  Left  from  Supply  on  paved  State  30  is  SOUTHPORT,  17  m.   (26  alt.,  1,760  pop.), 

seat   of   Brunswick   County,   on    a   beautiful    estuary    of   the    Cape    Fear    River    (bathing  \ 

beaches;  still-   and  deep-water   fishing;    hunting).   When    founded    by    Benjamin   Smith  1 

(see  tour  iC),  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1810-11),  and  others  in  1792  it  was  called  \ 

Smithville;   the   present   name    was    adopted    in    1889.   In   one   year   nearly   2,000    boats, 

including  500  yachts,  touched  at  Southport,  which  is  midway  between   New  York  and 

Florida  on  the  Intracoastal  Waterway.  Sea  breezes  make  the  summers  cool,  and  proximity 

to  the  Gulf  Stream  tempers  the  winters.  The  town  is  attractive  with  groves  of  wind-swept 

live  oaks,  spiny  Mexican  poppies  growing  along  the  streets,  and  a  profusion  of  western 

gaillardia  and  sea  evening  primrose. 

Fort  Johnston,  on  a  6-acre  bluff  was  the  first  fort  built  in  North  Carolina,  named  in 
honor  of  Gabriel  Johnston,  Governor  (1734-52).  It  was  completed  in  1764  and  in  1775 
it  became  the  refuge  of  Josiah  Martin,  Governor  (1771-76),  who  remained  until  patriots 
forced  him  to  flee,  July  18,  1776,  on  which  date  it  was  destroyed  by  fire.  The  State 
owned  the  property  until  1794  when  it  was  ceded  to  the  Government  on  condition  that 
a  new  fort  be  built.  The  substantial  brick  masonry  then  erected  is  in  good  repair.  It 
was  seized  by  Confederates  in  1861.  It  is  now  used  by  Army  Engineers  as  a  base  for 
dredge  crews  and  survey  parties,  and  by  the  Lighthouse  Service  for  crews  working  on 
lighthouses  and  buoys. 

The  Ruins  of  Fort  Caswell  are  2  miles  by  water  and  about  8  miles  by  land  south 
of  Southport.  Constructed  in  1825,  the  fort  was  manned  during  the  War  between  the 
States,  Spanish-American,  and  World  Wars.  It  is  now  operated  as  a  summer  beach 
resort. 

The  forts  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cape  Fear  River  afforded  protection  to  blockade 
runners  during  the  War  between  the  States,  giving  access  to  the  port  of  Wilmington  and 
constituting  the  "life  line  of  the  Confederacy."  Because  of  the  configuration  of  the  coast, 
it  was  difficult  to  effect  a  close  blockade.  The  blockade-running  ships  were  designed 
for  speed  and  easy  maneuvering,  usually  side-wheelers  armored  with  iron  and  rigged 
as  schooners.  They  would  reach  the  coast  and  steam  noiselessly  along  at  night  until  the 
protection  of  the  forts  was  reached.  If  overhauled,  they  had  orders  to  ground  and  fire 
the  boat  rather  than  submit  to  capture.  More  than  30  such  ships  were  scuttled  between 
Topsail  Inlet  and  Georgetown,  S.   C,  a  few  of  which  are  still   visible  at  low  tide. 

SMITH  ISLAND,  sometimes  called  Bald  Head,  about  17,000  acres  in  area,  is  available 
by  boat  from  Fort  Caswell,  2  m.,  or  from  Southport,  4  m.  The  extreme  tip  of  the  island 
forms  the  dread  CAPE  FEAR,  the  "promontorium  tremendum"  of  DeBry's  map.  FRY- 
ING PAN  SHOALS,  20  miles  off  Cape  Fear,  marked  by  a  lightship,  are  among  the 
most  dangerous  along  the  coast.  Cape  Fear  is  described  by  George  Davis  (see  Wil- 
mington), in  An  Episode  in  Cape  Fear  History  in  the  South  Atlantic  Magazine,  January 

l879  = 

"Looking  then  to  the  Cape  for  the  idea  and  reason  of  its  name,  we  find  that  it  is  the 
southernmost  point  of  Smith's  Island,  a  naked  bleak  elbow  of  sand  jutting  far  out  into 
the  ocean.  Immediately  in  its  front  are  Frying  Pan  Shoals  pushing  out  still  farther  20 
miles  to  sea.  Together  they  stand  for  warning  and  woe;  and  together  they  catch  the  long 
majestic  roll  of  the  Atlantic  as  it  sweeps  through  a  thousand  miles  of  grandeur  and 
power  from  the  Arctic  towards  the  Gulf.  It  is  the  playground  of  billows  and  tempests,  the 
kingdom  of  silence  and  awe,  disturbed  by  no  sound  save  the  sea  gull's  shriek  and  the 
breakers'  roar.  Its  whole  aspect  is  suggestive,  not  of  repose  and  beauty,  but  of  desolation 
and  terror.  Imagination  cannot  adorn  it.  Romance  cannot  hallow  it.  Local  pride  cannot 
soften  it.  There  it  stands  today,  bleak  and  threatening  and  pitiless,  as  it  stood  three 
hundred  years  ago  when  Grenville  and  White  came  near  unto  death  upon  its  sands. 
And  there  it  will  stand  bleak  and  threatening  and  pitiless  until  the  earth  and  sea  give 


29O  TOURS 

up  their  dead.  And  as  its  nature,  so  its  name,  is  now,  always  has  been,  and  always  will 
be  the  Cape  of  Fear." 

Pirates  including  Blackbeard,  Stede  Bonnett,  and  Richard  Worley  preyed  upon  shipping 
in  this  region.  Finally  Robert  Johnson,  Governor  of  South  Carolina  (1717-19),  sent 
Col.  William  Rhett  against  Bonnett.  A  desperate  encounter  occurred  within  Southport 
Harbor  during  the  summer  of  171 8.  Bonnett's  vessel  escaped  up  the  Cape  Fear  to  the 
Black  River,  where  it  was  overtaken  by  Rhett's  ship.  Bonnett  at  last  surrendered  with 
40  survivors  of  his  band.  They  were  taken  to  Charleston,  S.C.,  for  trial.  Bonnett  managed 
to  escape  in  woman's  apparel  but  was  soon  recaptured.  All  were  hanged  and  their  bodies 
buried  in  Charleston  Harbor  below  the  high-water  line.  While  awaiting  execution,  Bonnett 
wrote  an  appeal  asking  to  be  spared  that  he  might  devote  the  remainder  of  his  life 
to  good  works. 

SHALLOTTE,  183  m.  (33  alt.,  214  pop.),  is  on  the  Shallotte  River  (fish- 
ing; boats  and  guides  available).  In  1729,  according  to  the  Pennsylvania 
Gazette  of  Apr.  29,  1731,  this  settlement  was  known  as  Shelote,  but  there  is 
no  record  of  its  origin. 

US  17  crosses  the  South  Carolina  Line  23  miles  north  of  Myrtle  Beach,  S.  C. 
(see  s.  c.  tour  /). 


TOUR       I    A 


Elizabeth  City — Kitty  Hawk — Nags  Head — Manteo — Fort  Raleigh — Oregon 
Inlet — Hatteras  Inlet;  State  30,  34,  345.  129  m. 

Paved  roadbed  to  Manteo;  uncertain  travel  S.  of  Oregon  Inlet  along  sand  bar  beach  road. 

Limited   accommodations   as   far   as    Kitty  Hawk;   hotels   and   boarding  houses   at   Kitty 
Hawk,  Nags  Head,  Manteo,  and  Hatteras. 

This  route,  known  as  the  Virginia  Dare  Trail  between  Elizabeth  City  and 
Fort  Raleigh,  runs  along  the  picturesque  banks,  narrow  strips  of  sand  that 
form  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  State,  separating  the  ocean  from  the  sounds. 
The  Indians  called  the  banks  "out  islands."  Along  this  treacherous,  wreck- 
strewn  stretch  of  the  Atlantic  coast,  is  the  site  of  the  first  successful  airplane 
flight  and  of  the  first  English  settlements  in  America. 

State  30  branches  northeast  from  US  17  {see  tour  /)  in  ELIZABETH 
CITY,  0  m.  {see  Elizabeth  city),  and  crosses  Pasquotank  River  drawbridge. 
At  night  the  illumination  from  moored  craft  and  the  streets  of  Elizabeth 
City,  topped  by  the  beacon  on  the  water  tank,  is  visible  for  several  miles. 
The  so-called  FLOATING  ROAD,  1.5  miles  long,  begins  at  the  east  side  of 
the  bridge  and  crosses  small  MACHELHE  ISLAND,  known  locally  as  Goat 
Island.  Its  owner  combined  the  first  two  letters  of  the  names  of  his  four 
children — Mary,  Charles,  Eloise,  and  Helen — to  form  the  name.  A  deep 
but  narrow  cut  is  spanned  by  Stinking  Gut  bridge  and  thence  the  road 
crosses  FERRY  SWAMP.  The  first  course  over  this  swamp  was  a  corduroy 
road  flanked  by  bogs  that  meant  death  to  anyone  who  fell  into  them.  After 
piles  had  been  driven  down  100  feet,  only  to  disappear,  the  State  decided  to 
"float"  a  road.  A  16-foot-wide  jointed  strip  of  concrete  was  suspended  on 
steel  netting.  For  a  time  this  rose  and  fell  with  the  tides,  but  eventually  set- 
tled below  tidewater.  The  problem  was  finally  settled  by  the  present  asphalted 
roadbed,  elevated  on  pilings  joined  by  steel  cables.  The  fragrant  swamp 
woodlands  of  pine  and  cedar  are  gay  in  spring  with  dogwood,  honeysuckle, 
wild  rose,  and  Carolina  yellow  jessamine;  cattails  rise  from  the  waving  reeds 
and  smilax  twines  around  the  taller  trees.  From  the  Floating  Road  the  high- 
way runs  through  a  large  pecan  grove. 

CAMDEN,  4  m.  (9  alt.,  116  pop.),  a  rural  community,  is  the  State's 
smallest  county  seat.  Originally  called  Jonesboro,  the  village  was  named  for 
Charles  Pratt,  Earl  of  Camden,  as  was  the  county  when  it  was  cut  off  from 
Pasquotank  in  1777.  The  Camden  County  Courthouse,  with  a  portico  of 
four  massive  columns  on  brick  piers,  was  built  in  1847.  Originally  the  ground 
floor  was  used  to  quarter  horses.  Potatoes  are  grown  extensively  in  the  section. 

291 


292  TOURS 

During  the  harvest  season,  people  work  day  and  night  digging  and  shipping 
the  crop. 

1.  Left  from  Camden  on  graded  State  343  to  the  junction  with  the  dirt  Shipyard  Ferry 
Rd.,  3.5  m. ;  L.  on  this  road  0.5  m.  to  the  Sawyer  House  {private),  built  by  Charles 
Grice  in  1746  and  believed  to  have  been  used  as  a  hospital  and  refuge  during  the 
War  between  the  States.  It  is  a  rectangular,  two-story  brick  house,  with  concealed  end 
Chimneys,  a  one-story  front  porch,  and  a  small  frame  ell  in  the  rear. 

2.  Right  from  Camden  on  paved  State  343  to  the  junction  with  the  old  dirt  Indiantown 
Rd.,  2  m. ;  L.  on  this  road  0.5  m.  to  Fairfax  Hall,  also  called  the  Brick  House  because 
it  is  one  of  the  two  brick  houses  in  the  county.  The  old  mansion  was  supposedly  built 
about  1700.  The  interior  paneling  and  front  stoop  have  been  removed.  It  was  the  home 
of  Brig.  Gen.  Isaac  Gregory,  who  led  the  gallant  North  Carolina  brigade  at  the  Battle  of 
Camden,  Aug.  16,  1780,  in  which  he  suffered  two  bayonet  wounds  and  had  his  horse 
shot  from  under  him. 

Shiloh  Baptist  Church,  at  SHILOH,  12  m.  (500  pop.),  bearing  the  date  1727,  is 
the  oldest  organized  Baptist  church  in  the  State.  The  building,  erected  in  1841,  is  of 
hand-hewn  pine,  joined  with  pegs.  On  the  floor  are  marks  made  by  musket  butt  plates 
when  the  church  was  used  as  a  Federal  arsenal.  In  the  churchyard  is  the  Grave  of 
Dempsey  Burgess,  major  and  later  lieutenant  colonel  in  Gregory's  Continental  brigade. 
Burgess  was  a  member  of  the  Provincial  Congress  in  1775  and  1776  and  of  the  Fourth 
and  Fifth  Continental  Congresses  (1795-99). 

OLD  TRAP,  16  m.  (318  pop.),  a  truck-marketing  village,  became  a  storm  center 
when  many  of  its  nonslaveholding  citizens  refused  to  support  the  Confederacy.  When 
young  men  were  conscripted  for  the  Confederate  Army,  the  resulting  controversy  was 
bitter  and  prolonged.  Northern  sympathizers  of  southern  birth  were  here,  as  elsewhere  in 
the  South,  opprobriously  known  as  "buffaloes." 

In  Old  Trap  and  all  through  the  district  that  borders  the  broad  mouth  of  the 
Pasquotank  River  is  heard  frequently  the  colloquialism:  "Did  you  travel  or  come  by 
boat?"  "Travel"  is  the  old  Elizabethan  word  for  walk. 

In  SHAWBORO,  12  m.  (15  alt.,  300  pop.),  a  rural  village,  is  (L)  a  Twin 
House,  consisting  of  two  story-and-a-half  gabled  houses  built  one  behind  the 
other  about  10  feet  apart  and  connected  by  a  one-story  gabled  structure.  The 
first  was  built  about  1820  and  the  other  added,  it  is  said,  after  a  quarrel  be- 
tween the  husband  and  wife,  who  decided  to  live  apart. 

SLIGO,  15  m.  (15  alt.),  was  named  by  Edward  Dromgoole,  Methodist 
circuit  rider,  from  Sligo,  Ireland,  who  visited  here  in  1783. 

Left  from  Sligo  on  State  34  is  the  village  of  MOYOCK,  10  m.  (5  alt.,  500  pop.), 
which  has  the  only  bank  in  Currituck  County.  The  local  Woman's  Club  sponsored  the 
planting  of  cannas  the  length  of  the  town.  Left  from  Moyock  on  a  dirt  road  11  m.  to 
PUDDING  RIDGE,  on  the  edge  of  the  Dismal  Swamp.  Until  1935,  an  Amish-Mennonite 
colony,  called  "hook-and-eye"  Mennonites,  because  they  wore  no  buttons,  was  here. 
This  custom,  like  that  of  shaving  the  upper  lip,  was  adopted  by  their  progenitors 
when  they  were  opposing  civil  authority  in  Switzerland,  where  buttons  and  mustaches 
were  taxed.  The  Mennonites  came  here  in  1907   from  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  and  Indiana. 

Church  rules  decree  that  no  member  may  serve  on  a  jury,  bring  a  lawsuit,  hold  public 
office,  swear  oaths,  attend  theaters,  or  use  tobacco  or  liquor.  The  men  wore  long  hair, 
flowing  beards,  and  straight-hanging  coats.  The  women  wore  a  quilted  or  slatted  bonnet 
except  on  Sundays,  when  they  put  on  the  "prayer  covering,"  a  white  bonnet  trimmed 
with  lace  and  frills  and  tied  under  the  chin.  From  infancy  children  were  appareled  like 
their  elders.  They  spoke  the  "Pennsylvania  Dutch"  dialect,  but  church  services  were 
conducted  in  German.  All  but  one  family  have  moved  elsewhere. 

State  34,  now  the  main  route,  runs  southeast  from  Sligo  to  CURRITUCK 
'boats  and  guides  available),  19  m.  (10  alt.,  213  pop.).  The  name  of  the 


TOUR     I  A  293 

town,  the  county  and  the  beautiful  fresh-water  sound  which  it  borders  is 
from  Coratank  (Ind.  wild  geese).  The  sound  is  a  link  in  the  Intracoastal 
Waterway.  Currituck  was  formerly  a  part  of  the  Great  County  of  Albe- 
marle. Early  settlers  were  jubilant  when,  in  1728,  following  the  boundary 
dispute  between  North  Carolina  and  Virginia,  the  line  was  established  to 
include  them  in  North  Carolina. 

The  sound  abounds  with  migratory  waterfowl,  attracted  by  the  wild 
celery,  sago  grass,  and  pondweed.  Sportsmen  from  all  over  the  country 
utilize  the  clubhouses  and  lodges  that  dot  the  islands  and  the  shores.  Fish 
taken  include  bass,  rock,  mullet,  white  and  ring  perch,  herring,  pickerel,  and 
shad. 

The  whistling  swan  (Cygnus  columbianus)  breeds  in  Alaska  and  north- 
western Canada  but  winters  on  Currituck  Sound.  When  full-grown  they 
weigh  from  12  to  16  pounds.  They  seem  to  mate  for  life  and  are  accom- 
panied by  their  young  during  the  first  winter. 

Timothy  Hanson  in  1720  brought  to  Currituck  County  the  seeds  of  the 
grass  (Phleum  pratense)  which  he  developed  into  the  fodder  grass,  timothy. 

Around  Currituck  firesides  is  still  told  the  legend  of  16-year-old  Betsy 
Dowdy's  ride  in  December  1775.  The  bankers  feared  that  if  Gen.  William 
Skinner  did  not  go  to  Col.  Robert  Howe's  aid  at  Great  Bridge,  Va.,  the  British 
would  defeat  the  small  American  force  there,  invade  North  Carolina,  and 
pillage  their  homes.  On  her  wiry  banker  pony  Betsy  rode  all  night  from  the 
dunes  of  Currituck  to  General  Skinner's  headquarters  in  Perquimans,  50 
miles  distant.  Meanwhile  the  Battle  of  Great  Bridge  was  won,  Dunmore 
evacuated  Norfolk,  and  eastern  Carolina  was  saved  from  British  invasion. 

Currituck  Courthouse,  built  in  1876,  is  of  weathered  red  brick.  This  is 
the  governmental  center  since  there  are  no  incorporated  towns,  and  local 
affairs  are  administered  by  the  county.  People  of  the  section  refer  to  the 
town  as  "the  courthouse." 

South  of  Courthouse  Point,  on  a  little  rise  (R)  overlooking  the  sound,  is 
Pilmoor  Memorial  Methodist  Church,  a  neat  structure  of  red  brick  with 
small  steeple  and  white  trim,  erected  in  1928  on  the  spot  where  Joseph  Pil- 
moor, on  Sept.  28,  1772,  preached  the  first  Methodist  sermon  ever  delivered 
in  North  Carolina.  It  operates  one  of  the  few  Sunday  school  buses  in  the 
State,  Miss  Memorial. 

COINJOCK,  29.5  m.  (12  alt.,  216  pop.),  is  on  the  bank  of  the  Albe- 
marle and  Chesapeake  Canal,  a  link  in  the  Intracoastal  Waterway.  Coinjock 
is  a  shipping  point  for  watermelons. 

BERTHA,  35  m.  (26  pop.),  is  at  the  junction  with  paved  State  3. 

Left  on  State  3  is  POPLAR  BRANCH  (boats  on  charter  to  the  banks),  2  m.  (325  pop.). 
To  the  east  on  the  outer  banks  is  Currituck  Beach  Lighthouse,  generally  known  as 
Whaleshead,  though  the  post  office  is  COROLLA  (no  pop.).  The  lighthouse  is  of  rough 
unpainted  brick,  163  feet  high,  with  a  light  of  160,000  candlepower.  It  was  erected 
in  1875  t0  fill  a  dangerous  unlighted  gap  between  Cape  Henry  to  the  north  and 
Bodie  Island  to  the  south,  where  south-bound  ships  keep  well  inshore  to  avoid  the 
north-flowing   current  of    the   Gulf   Stream. 

On  Ian.  31,  1878,  the  Metropolis  was  wrecked  3  miles  south  of  the  lighthouse  with 


294  TOURS 

a  loss  of  more  than  ioo  lives.  Victims  were  buried  on  the  beach  in  graves  marked  with 
rude  boards. 

JARVISBURG,  41  m.  (550  pop.),  the  birthplace  of  Thomas  Jarvis,  Gov- 
ernor of  North  Carolina  (1879-84),  one  of  Currituck's  favorite  sons. 

At  POINT  HARBOR,  52  m.  (60  pop.),  the  highway  crosses  the  3-mile- 
long  Wright  Memorial  Bridge,  marking  the  confluence  of  four  sounds — 
Albemarle,  Currituck,  Croatan,  Roanoke — and  giving  entrance  to  Dare 
County  through  an  iron  archway  whose  inscription  recalls  that  this  county 
was  the  birthplace  of  the  Nation  (1584)  and  of  aviation  (1903). 

Dare,  youngest  of  Albemarle  counties,  was  erected  in  1870  from  Hyde, 
Currituck,  and  Tyrrell,  and  named  for  Virginia  Dare.  Its  area  includes 
300  square  miles  of  land  and  1,200  square  miles  of  water. 

At  intervals  along  the  80-mile  stretch  of  beach  from  the  Virginia  Line  to 
Hatteras  Inlet,  several  Coast  Guard  Stations  are  maintained.  Day  and 
night  patrols  watch  for  signals  from  ships  in  distress,  notify  summer  cot- 
tagers of  storm  warnings,  and  rescue  motorcars  stranded  in  the  soft  sand. 

From  the  archway  the  highway  passes  for  nearly  a  mile  through  a  dense 
forest  in  which  pine  and  dogwood  predominate,  and  then  opens  suddenly 
into  a  wide  expanse  of  sand  dunes,  with  the  blue  waters  of  the  Atlantic 
beyond.  Under  Federal  agencies  (1936-37),  sand  fences  were  built  and 
grasses  planted  to  stabilize  the  migratory  ridges,  whose  steady  westward 
progress  had  engulfed  hundreds  of  acres  of  forest  lands  and  destroyed  or 
endangered  dwellings  and  villages. 

The  highway  swings  R.  to  parallel  the  ocean  beach,  lined  for  several 
miles  with  cottages  and  boarding  houses. 

KITTY  HAWK,  59.5  m.  (250  pop.),  is  hidden  in  the  wind-swept  trees 
(R)  beyond  the  dunes.  The  name,  according  to  some,  is  derived  from  the 
mosquito  hawks  that  swarm  here  at  certain  seasons.  A  more  colorful  ex- 
planation is  that  the  name  comes  from  the  cry  of  the  wild  goose.  The  Indians 
evolved  \illy  from  kill,  and  computed  the  white  man's  year  "Fum  a  Killy 
Hauk  to  a  Killy  Hauk,"  the  time  between  killing  of  the  first  goose  of  one 
season  and  the  first  killing  of  the  next  season.  However,  a  map  prepared 
for  the  Lords  Proprietors  in  1729  designates  the  place  as  Chickahauk. 

It  is  generally  believed  that  the  beautiful  Theodosia  Burr,  daughter  of 
Aaron  Burr  and  wife  of  Joseph  Alston,  Governor  of  South  Carolina 
(1812-14),  perished  off  the  coast  here.  On  Dec.  30,  1812,  she  sailed  from 
Georgetown,  S.  O,  on  the  Patriot,  a  small  pilot  boat,  to  visit  her  father  in 
New  York,  and  was  never  seen  again.  The  boat  was  then  believed  to  have 
been  wrecked  off  Hatteras  during  a  storm. 

In  1869,  Dr.  W.  G.  Pool  was  called  to  attend  a  poor  banker  woman,  who 
gave  him  a  portrait  from  her  wall  for  a  fee,  and  told  him  its  story.  In  1812 
a  small  pilot  boat  with  sails  set  and  rudder  lashed,  drifted  ashore  at  Kitty 
Hawk.  There  were  no  signs  of  violence  or  bloodshed  on  the  deserted  ship — 
an  untouched  meal  was  on  the  table,  and  silk  dresses  hung  within  a  cabin. 
On  the  wall  was  the  portrait  of  a  young  and  beautiful  woman,  painted  in 
oil  on  polished  mahogany  and  set  in  a  gilded  frame.  The  bankers  stripped 


TOUR     I  A  295 

the  boat,  and  the  portrait  fell  to  the  woman's  sweetheart,  who  gave  it  to  her. 
The  bankers  believed  that  pirates  had  forced  all  on  board  to  walk  the 
plank,  only  to  be  frightened  away  before  they  could  plunder  the  ship. 

Upon  comparison,  Dr.  Pool  was  impressed  by  the  resemblance  of  his 
portrait  to  a  picture  of  Aaron  Burr;  photographs  of  the  portrait  were  sent 
to  members  of  the  Burr  and  Edwards  families,  who,  almost  without  excep- 
tion, proclaimed  the  likeness  that  of  Theodosia.  Compared  with  the  Sully 
portrait,  features  and  expression  were  found  to  be  similar.  The  Nags  Head 
portrait  is  in  a  private  museum  in  New  York  City. 

Legendary  confessions  round  out  the  story.  Years  later,  two  criminals, 
later  executed,  admitted  they  were  members  of  a  pirate  crew  that  boarded 
the  Patriot  and  forced  passengers  and  crew  to  walk  the  plank.  A  dying 
beggar  in  a  Michigan  almshouse  confessed  he  was  one  of  the  pirates,  and 
that  he  had  been  haunted  by  the  face  of  the  beautiful  woman  who  pleaded 
for  her  life  that  she  might  go  to  her  father  in  New  York. 

At  intervals  along  the  beach  are  the  wrecks  of  several  ships.  In  1927  the 
Greek  steamer  Paraguay  broke  in  two  when  she  grounded  on  a  reef.  A  year 
later  the  Carl  Gerhard  was  driven  ashore  between  the  bow  and  stern  of  the 
Paraguay.  At  low  tide  the  decks  of  the  Carl  Gerhard  furnish  footing  for 
fishermen,  though  at  high  tide  her  decks  are  awash,  and  in  rough  weather 
her  masts  are  hardly  visible. 

The  beach  has  other  and  less  tragic  associations.  In  the  summer  of  1900 
the  postmistress  at  Kitty  Hawk  received  a  letter  from  Dayton,  Ohio,  asking 
information  about  the  topography  of  the  section  with  reference  to  proposed 
"scientific  kite-flying  experiments"  which  Wilbur  Wright  and  his  brother 
Orville  planned  to  make  during  their  September  vacation.  Capt.  W.  J.  Tate, 
whose  wife  was  postmistress,  answered  the  letter  and  served  as  host  when 
they  arrived.  Over  a  period  of  three  years  the  Wrights  carried  on  glider 
experiments,  eventually  equipping  a  glider  with  a  gasoline  motor. 

On  May  22,  1928,  there  was  unveiled  at  Kitty  Hawk  a  commemorative 
marble  marker,  erected  with  contributions  solely  from  Kitty  Hawk  citizens, 
and  inscribed:  "On  this  spot,  Sept.  17,  1900,  Wilbur  Wright  began  the 
assembly  of  the  Wright  brothers'  first  experimental  glider  which  led  to  man's 
conquest  of  the  air." 

At  63.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  asphalted  Government  road. 

Right  on  this  road  the  Wright  Memorial  Monument,  1  m.  (R),  erected  by  the 
Federal  Government  in  1932,  rises  from  the  top  of  Kill  Devil  Hill.  The  surrounding 
350-acre  park  is  a  landscaped  spot  in  the  barren  expanse  of  glaring  dunes.  Native  wire 
grass  and  transplanted  sod  were  used  to  anchor  the  hill.  A  spiral  walk  leads  to  the 
summit  of  the  90-foot  dune.  The  monument,  of  Mount  Airy  granite,  60  feet  high,  has 
a  star-shaped  base  resting  on  a  sunken  foundation  35  feet  deep.  On  its  top  is  a  three-way 
beacon,  visible  for  30  miles  on  a  clear  night.  On  the  outer  walls  are  wings  in  bas- 
relief,  and  the  inscription:  "In  commemoration  of  the  conquest  of  the  air  by  the 
brothers  Wilbur  and  Orville  Wright  conceived  by  Genius,  achieved  by  Dauntless  Resolu- 
tion and   Unconquerable  Faith."  At  night  the  monument  is  illuminated  by  floodlights. 

Within  the  monument  massive  bronze  doors  lead  to  a  memorial  room  of  Salisbury 
pink  granite,  which  has  a  central  niche  for  a  small  model  of  the  original  Wright 
plane,  and  on  either  side  niches  for  busts  of  the  Wright  brothers.  Engraved  on  a  stainless 
steel  table  is  a  map,  charting  notable  flights  in  the  first  25  years  of  aviation.  Inscriptions 


296  TOURS 

record  the  date  of  the  first  flight  of  a  power-driven  airplane,  Dec.  17,  1903.  Curving 
inner  stairs  ascend  to  the  observation  platform  atop  the  monument,  which  affords  an 
extensive  view  of  the  surrounding  area. 

North  of  the  monument,  600  feet,  is  the  granite  boulder  marker  erected  by  the 
National  Aeronautic  Association,  unveiled  Dec.  17,  1928,  the  25th  anniversary  of  the 
flight.  It  stands  on  the  spot  where  the  crude  and  fragile  machine  left  the  earth  under  its 
own  power.  Four  flights  were  made,  the  brothers  alternating  at  the  controls,  until  a 
sudden  gust  of  the  21-mile  wind  rolled  the  machine  over,  damaging  it  so  that  further 
experiments  were  impossible.  Orville  was  at  the  controls  on  the  first  flight  when  the 
plane  stayed  in  the  air  12  seconds,  traversing  120  feet.  On  the  fourth  flight,  with  Wilbur 
at  the  controls,  it  was  flown  852  feet  in  59  seconds,  and  the  news  was  flashed  around  the 
world. 

KILL  DEVIL  HILL,  one  legend  relates,  was  named  for  a  brand  of  Medford  rum  so 
potent  that  it  was  considered  strong  enough  to  "kill  the  devil."  Tribute  to  the  power 
of  this  liquor  was  paid  in  the  Ballad  of  Kill  Devil  Hills,  or  the  Ballad  of  Medford  Rum, 
and  according  to  William  Byrd,  in  his  History  of  the  Dividing  Line:  "Most  of  the  Rum 
they  get  in  this  country  comes  from  New  England,  and  it  is  so  bad  and  unwholesome,  that 
it  is  not  improperly  call'd  'Kill  Devil.'  " 

Right  from  the  monument  1  m.  on  a  paved  road  to  the  FRESH  PONDS,  the  largest 
of  which  covers  125  acres.  Lying  on  this  narrow  sand  bar  between  the  salt  waters 
of  ocean  and  sound,  these  pools  are  covered  with  pond  lilies  and  contain  fresh-water  fish. 
They  are  popularly  considered  bottomless,  and  the  mystery  of  their  existence  has  been 
variously  explained;  an  inlet  may  have  once  existed  at  this  point,  connecting  the  ocean 
with  Kitty  Hawk  Bay. 

Left  from  the  Fresh  Ponds  on  a  sand  road  1.2  m.,  across  two  free  bridges,  is 
COLLINGTON  (200  pop.),  a  fishing  village  on  Collington  Island  in  Kitty  Hawk  Bay. 
Originally  named  Carlyle  Island,  it  was  granted  in  1663  to  Sir  John  Colleton,  a  Lord 
Proprietor.  Some  believe  this  to  be  the  Trinity  Harbor  of  DeBry's  map.  John  Lawson 
wrote  in  1709:  "I  cannot  forbear  inserting  here  a  pleasant  story  that  passes  for  an 
uncontested  Truth  amongst  the  inhabitants  of  this  Place;  which  is  that  the  Ship  which 
brought  the  first  Colonies,  does  often  appear  amongst  them  under  sail,  in  a  gallent 
posture,  which  they  call  Sir  Walter  Raleigh's  Ship;  and  the  truth  of  this  has  been 
affirmed  to  me  by  men  of  the  best  Credit  in  the  Country." 

Most  of  the  inhabitants  are  of  English  and  Swedish  descent.  Delicious  figs  grow  on 
the  island,  where  a  few  of  the  old  two-wheeled  oxcarts,  formerly  common  on  the  banks, 
are  still  in  use. 

At  67  m.  is  NAGS  HEAD  BEACH.  Garages  border  the  highway  and 
boardwalks  and  driveways  lead  to  the  rear  of  cottages  facing  the  ocean. 

The  Wreck  of  the  Huron  is  indicated  by  a  marker  recalling  the  disaster 
of  Nov.  24,  1877,  when  108  lives  were  lost.  When  the  sea  is  calm,  tank, 
boiler,  and  bell  are  visible  about  175  yards  offshore.  The  wreckage  swarms 
with  fish,  particularly  sheepshead. 

NAGS  HEAD,  68.2  m.  (39  pop.),  has  been  a  resort  for  more  than  a 
century.  Until  1929  the  sound  side  was  the  site  of  the  larger  cottages  and 
hotels,  and  cottagers  and  Sunday  excursionists  came  by  boat  to  a  long 
pier  jutting  out  into  Roanoke  Sound.  Opening  of  the  Virginia  Dare  Trail 
and  the  Wright  Memorial  Bridge  has  directed  development  along  the  ocean 
boulevard. 

An  explanation  for  the  name  Nags  Head  is  that  in  the  early  days  of  the 
settlement  "land  pirates"  deliberately  sought  to  wreck  ships.  On  a  stormy 
night  a  lantern  was  tied  to  the  neck  of  an  old  nag,  which  was  then  ridden 
along  the  beach.  Mistaking  the  light  for  a  beacon,  ships  were  lured  to  the 
treacherous  reefs,  there  to  be  boarded  and  looted  by  the  wily  shoremen. 


TOUR     I  A  297 

In  the  folklore  of  this  coast  are  a  headless  horseman  who  gallops  silently 
over  the  dunes,  and  an  everlasting  stain  on  the  sandy  beach  from  the  blood 
of  a  banker  woman  slain  by  her  husband  who  found  her  in  the  embrace 
of  another  and  did  not  wait  to  learn  that  the  stranger  was  her  long-absent 
brother. 

The  White  Doe,  reincarnation  of  Virginia  Dare,  supposedly  still  roams 
the  hills,  visible  to  humans  only  on  the  stroke  of  midnight.  According  to 
one  tale,  the  Lost  Colony  was  adopted  by  an  Indian  tribe.  Virginia  was 
loved  by  the  young  brave  Okisco  and  by  the  magician  Chico.  To  thwart  his 
rival,  Chico  changed  the  young  woman  into  a  white  doe.  Wenando,  magi- 
cian of  another  tribe,  gave  Okisco  a  silver  arrow  that  would  magically 
restore  the  maiden  to  human  form  if  it  pierced  the  heart  of  the  white  doe. 
When  Okisco  shot  the  doe  through  the  heart,  a  mist  arose  revealing  the 
form  of  Virginia  Dare — dead. 

The  sea  constantly  encroaches  at  Nags  Head  and  steadily  the  span  of 
sandy  beach  between  cottage  line  and  ocean  grows  narrower.  The  shore  is 
building  up  on  the  sound  side  so  that  cottages,  originally  erected  on  pilings 
over  the  water,  stand  on  dry  sand.  JOCKEYS  RIDGE  and  ENGAGEMENT 
HILL  are  more  than  100  feet  high.  Hardly  less  imposing  are  the  SEVEN 
SISTERS  and  lesser  dunes  farther  south. 

At  intervals  paved  roads  lead  (R)  to  the  sound  side.  High  dunes  give  way 
to  rolling  beachland  and  flat  meadows.  At  the  Whalebone  Filling  Station, 
74  m.,  is  the  skeleton  of  a  whale  washed  up  on  the  beach  in  1927. 

At  the  Whalebone  Filling  Station  is  the  junction  with  a  beach  road  {see 
drive  on  the  banks). 

State  34  branches  R.  across  2.5  miles  of  causeway  and  bridges  over  Roa- 
noke Sound,  to  enter  ROANOKE  ISLAND,  76.5  m.,  12  miles  long  with  an 
average  width  of  3  miles. 

At  78  m.  State  34  makes  a  junction  with  paved  State  345.  At  the  junc- 
tion is  the  Site  of  the  Battle  of  Roanoke  Island.  After  the  fall  of 
Hatteras,  Roanoke  Island  was  the  only  hope  of  defense  for  Albemarle 
Sound  and  its  tributary  rivers.  When  Gen.  Ambrose  E.  Burnside  with 
15,000  troops  sailed  up  Croatan  Sound  and  landed  on  the  island,  the  Con- 
federates under  Col.  Henry  M.  Shaw  engaged  the  Federals  but  were  forced 
to  retreat  and  finally  to  surrender  on  Dec.  7,  1862. 

Left  on  State  345  is  WANCHESE,  4  m.  (1,040  pop.),  which  has  one  of  the  best 
harbors  in  the  section  and  is  a  trading  point  for  northern  Pamlico  Sound  {one  boat 
daily  to  Hatteras).  It  is  the  center  of  Dare's  shad-fishing  industry  in  which  90  percent  of 
the  county's  population  is  employed. 

Right  from  the  Junction  on  State  345  is  MANTEO,  79.5  m.  (12  alt.,  547 
pop.),  seat  of  Dare  County  and  its  only  incorporated  town.  The  village  was 
named  for  the  Indian  Manteo.  Old  docks  line  the  water  front  and  two- 
wheeled  oxcarts  occasionally  rumble  up  and  down  the  shell-paved  streets. 

Manteo  {guides  and  boats  available  for  fishing  and  hunting)  has  numer- 
ous freight,  passenger,  and  mail  boats  besides  those  engaged   in  fishing. 


290  TOURS 

Government  surveys  show  a  greater  variety  of  fishes  in  Dare  County  waters 
than  in  any  other  county  in  the  United  States.  Game  fish  attract  sportsmen 
the  year  around.  Channel  bass  weighing  50  to  75  pounds  are  frequently 
taken.  Other  varieties  are  bluefish,  speckled  or  gray  trout,  rock  or  striped 
bass,  pigfish,  blackfish,  and  several  kinds  of  perch. 

Numerous  varieties  of  waterfowl  migrate  to  this  natural  feeding  ground — 
the  white  swan  and  many  species  of  wild  duck  and  wild  goose.  Shore  birds 
such  as  golden  plover  and  yellowlegs,  furnish  sport  for  hunters.  The  section 
also  affords  quail  and  snipe  shooting. 

Roanoke  hominy,  commonly  called  big  or  lye  hominy,  is  still  prepared 
in  some  rural  sections  as  the  Indians  made  it.  Tradition  says  they  served  it 
to  Amadas  and  Barlow  in  1584. 

At  80  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  Mother  Vineyard  (not  open  to  public  except  by  special  arrange- 
ment), 0.5  m.  Here  is  an  unusually  fine  scuppernong  grapevine,  covering  more  than  an 
acre.  Local  tradition  is  that  the  vine  was  planted  by  Amadas  and  Barlow  from  roots 
brought  from  the  Scuppernong  River.  Another  theory  claims  discovery  of  the  vine  in 
Tyrrell   County,  near  Columbia   (see  tour  26a). 

Fort  Raleigh  {always  open),  83  m.,  is  the  site  of  the  first  attempted 
English  settlement  in  America,  the  Citie  of  Ralegh  (or  New  Fort)  in  what 
was  then  Virginia.  Between  1584  and  1591  seven  separate  English  expedi- 
tions visited  Roanoke  Island  {see  history). 

On  July  4,  1584,  Amadas  and  Barlow  touched  the  present  North  Carolina 
coast,  planted  the  arms  of  England,  and  took  possession  of  the  continent 
for  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  under  his  patent  from  Queen  Elizabeth.  After  two 
months  of  exploration  they  returned  to  England,  taking  with  them  the 
Indians,  Manteo  and  Wanchese,  and  samples  of  the  strange  products  of  the 
land,  including  tobacco  and  potatoes.  In  1585,  Sir  Richard  Grenville  brought 
over  a  Raleigh  colonizing  expedition  of  108  persons  under  Gov.  Ralph 
Lane,  landing  on  Roanoke  Island,  Aug.  17.  Grenville  returned  to  Eng- 
land and  the  colonists  built  a  fort.  Trouble  with  the  Indians  and  near- 
starvation  ensued,  and  when  Sir  Francis  Drake's  fleet  appeared  in  1586  the 
Lane  colonists  departed  with  him.  Two  weeks  later  Grenville  returned 
with  supplies  and,  finding  the  Lane  colony  gone,  left  15  men  to  hold  Eng- 
land's claim. 

Gov.  John  White's  expedition  arrived  in  1587  and  found  no  trace  of  the 
men  except  an  unburied  skeleton,  the  fort  and  dwellings  in  ruins.  They 
rebuilt  the  fort  and  restored  friendly  relations  with  the  Indians,  aided  by 
Manteo,  who,  on  Aug.  13,  1587,  was  baptized  and,  by  order  of  Sir  Walter 
Raleigh,  invested  with  the  title,  Lord  of  Roanoke.  This  is  the  first  recorded 
celebration  of  a  sacrament  by  English-speaking  people  in  America. 

Among  the  colonists  was  Governor  White's  daughter,  Eleanor,  wife  of 
Ananias  Dare.  The  daughter  of  this  couple,  born  on  Aug.  18,  1587,  was  the 
first  white  child  born  of  English  parents  on  American  soil.  The  following 
Sunday,  Aug.  25,  she  was  christened  Virginia,  for  the  Colony  was  then 
called  Virginia. 

On  Aug.  27,  1587,  John  White  sailed  for  England  "for  the  present  and 


TOUR    I  A  299 

speedy  supply  of  certain  known  and  apparent  lacks  and  needs,  most  requisite 
and  necessary  for  the  good  and  happy  planting  of  us,  or  any  other  in  the 
land  of  Virginia."  White  was  detained  in  England  by  the  Spanish  Armada 
and  not  until  Mar.  20,  1591,  was  he  able  to  embark  to  America.  He  arrived 
at  Roanoke  Island  Aug.  15,  1591,  searched  for  two  days,  and  "found  the 
houses  taken  down  and  the  place  very  strongly  enclosed  with  a  high  pali- 
sade of  great  trees,  with  curtains  and  flankers,  very  fortlike;  and  one  of  the 
chief  trees  or  posts  at  the  right  side  of  the  entrance  had  the  bark  taken 
off,  and  five  feet  from  the  ground,  in  fair  capital  letters  were  graven 
CROATOAN,  without  any  sign  or  cross  of  distress."  So  ends  the  romantic 
story  of  that  tragic  Lost  Colony  of  116  men,  women,  and  children.  There 
have  been  numerous  conjectures  as  to  their  ultimate  fate,  but  the  truth  has 
never  been  discovered. 

Governor  White  made  minute  and  careful  drawings,  now  in  the  British 
Museum,  of  the  activities  of  the  colonists  and  their  Indian  neighbors.  These 
drawings,  as  well  as  other  pertinent  records  of  the  time,  were  consulted  in 
the  reconstruction  of  the  fort  and  other  buildings. 

Small  blockhouses  flank  the  entrance  to  the  palisaded  reservation  and  rise 
from  the  four  corners.  Reproductions  of  the  colonists'  log  houses  stand 
among  the  pine,  oak,  dogwood,  and  holly.  They  are  built,  as  is  the  palisade, 
of  split,  unpeeled  juniper  logs  and  are  chinked  with  Spanish  moss.  The  stone 
used  for  foundations  and  fireplaces  is  ancient  ballast  rock,  recovered  from 
the  waters  around  the  island. 

The  Fort,  on  the  original  foundations  within  its  own  palisade,  is  of  pine 
with  a  projecting  upper  story  and  sides  pierced  for  gunfire.  Here  are  the 
stone  monument  erected  in  1896  in  memory  of  the  Lost  Colony,  and  a 
bronze  plaque  bearing  the  one  word  Croatoan.  The  Museum  contains  im- 
plements used  in  Colonial  days.  The  Chapel,  of  juniper  logs,  20  by  30  feet, 
thatched  with  native  reeds,  stands  on  a  little  hummock  north  of  the  fort. 
Rough  backless  benches  are  set  in  the  sand,  which  serves  as  a  floor.  Each 
year,  on  Aug.  18,  the  Roanoke  Colony  Memorial  Association  celebrates  the 
birthday  of  Virginia  Dare  at  Fort  Raleigh.  The  350th  anniversary  took  an 
elaborate  form  in  1937. 

State  345  continues  to  WEIR  POINT,  84  m.,  at  the  tip  of  Roanoke 
Island.  Here,  in  1902,  Reginald  A.  Fessenden,  of  the  U.  S.  Weather  Bureau, 
built  an  experimental  wireless  station  and  established  communication  with 
a  ship  similarly  equipped.  He  subsequently  completed  his  experiments  else- 
where and  secured  patents  for  his  system. 

A  ferry  runs  between  Roanoke  Island  and  Manns  Harbor  {see  tour  26a). 


300  TOURS 

DRIVE  ON  THE  BANKS 

This  route  is  recommended  for  the  adventurous 

Whalebone  Filling  Station  to  Hatteras  Inlet,  55  m. 

Unpaved  sandy  road,  unusable  at  certain  times  of  the  year  and  during  high  tide;  safest 
when  ground  is  frozen.  Inquire  locally  about  conditions.  Automobile  tires  should  be 
somewhat  deflated  before  leaving  paved  roadbed;  motorists  should  carry  long  strips 
of  coarse  canvas  or  an  old  sail  for  use  under  the  wheels  to  provide  traction  if  needed. 
Coast  Guard  Stations  between  Oregon  and  Hatteras  Inlets  assist  motorists.  Hotel  at 
Hatteras  village. 

The  constantly  shifting  dunes  of  this  long  narrow  reef  created  by  the 
restless  currents  of  the  Atlantic  form  fantastic  shadows,  contrasting  with  the 
gray  green  or  blue  of  the  waters  in  a  scene  of  primitive  splendor. 

Bodie  (body)  Island  Lighthouse  {open),  5  m.,  was  built  in  1872.  The 
first  light  here  was  erected  in  1848  to  mark  the  dangerous  stretch  of  low- 
lying  coast  between  Capes  Henry  and  Hatteras.  Rebuilt  in  1859,  it  was 
destroyed  during  the  War  between  the  States;  Fort  Oregon  was  built  near 
the  site  during  that  conflict.  When  rebuilt  it  was  placed  on  a  new  site  west 
of  the  inlet  that  had  recently  been  opened.  Five  sailing  vessels  were  wrecked 
in  the  vicinity  while  the  tower,  finished  in  1872,  was  under  construction. 
The  lighthouse  is  163  feet  high  and  throws  a  160,000-candlepower  beam 
visible  for  19  miles. 

OREGON  INLET,  8  m.,  a  mile  wide,  is  crossed  by  a  toll  ferry  {50$ 
trip  for  car  and  driver;  extra  passengers  10$  each  way).  This  is  one  of  the 
best  points  on  the  coast  for  drum  (channel  bass)  fishing.  While  drum 
and  bluefish  are  running,  scores  of  fishing  boats  with  shining  lures 
trailing  astern  pass  through  the  inlet,  and  millions  of  pounds  of  fish  are 
taken. 

The  6,500-acre  area  between  Oregon  Inlet  and  Rodanthe  constitutes  the 
PEA  ISLAND  MIGRATORY  WATERFOWL  REFUGE  under  control 
of  the  U.  S.  Biological  Survey;  it  is  a  part  of  the  Cape  Hatteras  National 
Seashore. 

Pea  Island  Station  {open),  15  m.,  is  the  only  one  in  the  Coast  Guard 
service  manned  by  Negroes.  In  the  surf  nearby  is  the  rusty  boiler  of  a 
grounded  Confederate  blockade  runner. 

NEW  INLET,  17  m.,  opened  in  1933  by  a  severe  northeast  storm  and 
ocean  tides,  is  crossed  by  free  bridges. 

RODANTHE,  21  m.  (420  pop.),  is  on  the  most  easterly  point  on  the 
North  Carolina  coast.  Here,  folk  celebrate  the  birth  of  the  Christ  Child  on 
Jan.  6,  Old  Christmas,  or  Twelfth  Night,  a  custom  for  generations. 

Chicamacomico  Station  {open)  marks  the  dangerous  coast  at  Rodanthe. 
Here  is  the  surfboat  in  which,  on  Aug.  16,  1918,  Capt.  John  Allen  Midgett 
and  a  crew  of  5  braved  a  sea  of  blazing  oil  and  gasoline  to  rescue  42 
persons  from  the  torpedoed  British  tanker,  S.S.  Mirlo.  For  this  deed  Con- 


TOUR    I  A  3OI 

gress  awarded  them  bronze  Medals  of  Honor.  Close  by  the  station  is  the 
burial  mound  of  British  seamen  drowned  in  the  wreck  of  the  St.  Catharis, 
Apr.  16,  1891,  in  which  90  lives  were  lost. 

At  SALVO,  27  m.,  on  a  barren  sand  hill,  grows  an  immense  fig  tree 
whose  branches  spread  over  an  area  250  feet  in  circumference.  It  produced 
from  50  to  100  bushels  of  figs  annually  until  1933,  when  it  was  damaged 
in  a  storm. 

AVON,  39  m.,  (489  pop.),  is  a  fishing  village  also  known  locally  by 
the  Indian  name  Kinnakeet.  Big  Kinnakeet  Station  (open)  is  here.  Tons 
of  bluefish  are  caught  near  here  every  season.  Fruit  trees,  vineyards,  and 
truck  gardens  evidence  the  fertility  of  this  little  area. 

South  of  Avon  the  beach  road  winds  through  woods  where  palmettos 
grow  in  abundance,  trees  are  hung  with  Spanish  moss,  and  the  vegetation 
is  generally  subtropical.  The  open  beach  is  strewn  with  wreckage,  attesting 
the  aptness  of  Cape  Hatteras  waters  being  called  "the  Graveyard  of  the 
Atlantic."  A  grisly  joke  is  the  local  observation  that  Hatteras'  chief  importa- 
tion is  wrecks. 

On  CAPE  HATTERAS,  45  m.,  wildlife  is  abundant.  For  years  herds 
of  wild  ponies,  cattle,  and  hogs  ranged  at  will,  till  the  Federal  program  of 
sand  fixation  by  grass  plantings  necessitated  a  strict  stock  law.  In  1938  the 
county  placed  a  bounty  on  the  few  remaining  wild  ponies,  traditional  de- 
scendants of  Barbary  ponies  brought  over  by  the  Raleigh  colonists  or  saved 
from  wrecked  Portuguese  ships.  In  winter  the  waters  are  dotted  with  ducks 
and  geese,  and  there  is  frequently  the  gleam  of  a  white  swan.  Sandpipers 
and  gulls  feed  in  flocks,  undisturbed  by  scurrying  sandfiddlers.  Eagles  and 
ospreys  wheel  above  the  water  on  the  lookout  for  prey,  and  schools  of  por- 
poises sport  just  beyond  the  breakers  of  the  roaring  Atlantic. 

At  the  tip  of  the  cape,  1,200  acres,  including  the  gently  shelving  beach 
on  the  south,  were  given  to  the  Federal  Government  by  Frank  Stick  and 
J.  S.  Phipps  to  be  developed  as  the  CAPE  HATTERAS  NATIONAL  SEA- 
SHORE, which  will  eventually  be  included  in  a  greater  recreational  area 
embracing  50  miles  or  more  of  beachland  and  bordering  sound. 

Within  the  area  is  Cape  Hatteras  Lighthouse,  abandoned  in  1936.  Spi- 
rally painted  black  and  white,  the  structure  is  193  feet  high  and  commands 
a  view  of  a  great  wreck  area.  Within  125  yards,  15  or  more  ship  skeletons 
protrude  from  the  sands.  The  first  lighthouse,  built  in  1798,  was  blown 
up  during  the  War  between  the  States.  The  present  abandoned  lighthouse, 
when  built  in  1869-70,  was  2  miles  inland,  but  when  the  encroaching  Atlantic 
was  only  100  feet  away  the  Government  decided  to  retreat  to  higher 
ground.  A  166-foot  skeleton  tower  at  the  edge  of  Buxton  woods  replaces  the 
older,  more  picturesque  structure;  it  has  a  revolving  light  visible  for  19 
miles  on  a  clear  night. 

After  the  engagement  between  the  Merrimac  and  the  Monitor  in  Hampton 
Roads,  Mar.  9,  1862,  the  Monitor  was  dispatched  to  Charleston  Harbor  Dec. 
29  in  tow  of  the  side-wheeler  Rhode  Island.  The  following  night  the  unsea- 


302  TOURS 

worthy  little  "cheese  box"  sank  in  a  gale  off  Hatteras,  with  a  loss  of  4 
officers  and  12  men;  49  of  her  crew  were  saved  by  the  Rhode  Island. 

DIAMOND  SHOALS,  most  treacherous  shallows  on  the  coast,  extend 
25  miles  out  to  sea  from  the  cape.  They  are  vast  shifting  ridges  of  sand, 
swept  down  the  coast  by  powerful  ocean  tides.  Few  ships  stranded  on  the 
shoals  are  ever  refloated,  but  the  Matinee  R.  Thurlow  proved  an  exception 
when  she  ran  aground  during  a  storm  on  Oct.  13,  1927.  Her  crew  of  nine 
signaled  for  help  and  coast  guardsmen  took  them  ashore  in  a  surfboat. 
The  Coast  Guard  cutter  Mascoutin,  which  was  dispatched  from  Norfolk, 
Va.,  could  find  no  trace  of  the  schooner  and  reported  her  lost.  Thirteen 
days  later  the  Dutch  tanker  Sleidrecht  sighted  the  schooner  in  the  North 
Atlantic.  A  general  order  to  run  down  the  modern  Flying  Dutchman  was 
broadcast.  Every  few  days  the  sea  wanderer  was  reported  in  a  different  place 
but  she  was  never  overtaken  and  her  fate  is  unknown. 

The  shoals  are  marked  by  Diamond  Shoals  Lightship,  moored  13  miles 
off  the  tip  of  Cape  Hatteras.  With  radio  signals  and  a  beacon  visible  for 
14  miles,  the  ship  serves  continuously  for  a  year,  when  she  and  her  crew  of 
16  are  relieved  by  another  "wave  wallower." 

Early  efforts  to  maintain  a  lightship  here  proved  futile,  but  there  has  been 
one  since  1897  except  for  brief  intervals.  One  such  interval  occurred  on  Aug. 
8,  1918  when  a  German  submarine  opened  fire  on  a  merchant  ship  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  away.  The  lightship  wirelessed  a  warning  to  vessels  in  the 
vicinity  and  the  submarine  located  and  sank  her.  The  crew  escaped  in  small 
boats  to  Cape  Hatteras. 

West  of  the  cape  the  road  passes  sand  hills  whose  thickly  timbered  ridges  are 
clothed  with  loblolly  pine,  live  oak,  and  holly  including  the  yaupon  (yo'pon), 
locally  called  cassena  holly.  The  trees  incline  westward,  bent  by  the  prevail- 
ing winds.  These  woods  contain  deer  and  small  game.  Yaupon  {Ilex  cassine 
and  Ilex  vomitorid)  is  a  dark  evergreen  with  bright  red  berries.  The  small 
glossy  leaves  are  dried  and  used  for  tea,  emetic  to  those  unaccustomed  to  it, 
though  it  contains  much  caffeine.  It  was  called  the  "black  drink"  when  used 
by  the  Creeks  at  their  annual  "busk"  or  green-corn  thanksgiving  for  cere- 
monial purification. 

At  46.5  m.,  is  BUXTON  (315  pop.),  most  of  whose  houses  cluster 
around  the  sound-side  docks. 

FRISCO,  50  m.  (115  pop.),  has  neat  white  houses  with  bright  blue 
blinds  and  dooryards  gay  with  flowers  and  picket  fences.  The  Frisco  Station 
{open)  is  on  the  beach  here. 

Southwest  of  Frisco  the  route  continues  through  the  woods,  which  at 
length  give  way  to  open  beachland  strewn  with  still  more  wreckage. 

HATTERAS,  54  m.  (5  alt.,  500  pop.),  is  the  largest  community  on  the 
beach.  Sportsmen  interested  in  deep-sea  fishing  have  materially  aided  its 
development.  Houses,  some  flamboyantly   painted,  nestle   among  scrubby, 


TOUR    I  A  303 

stunted  live  oaks  and  waterbushes  teeming  with  mockingbirds.  The  people 
are  weathered  and  bronzed,  possessed  of  a  sturdy  independence  and  self- 
reliance.  Occupations  are  limited  almost  entirely  to  fishing  and  boating  and 
to  Government  employment  in  the  Lighthouse  Service  and  the  Coast  Guard. 

These  people  speak  in  broad  Devon  accents.  Many  older  families  believe 
they  are  descended  from  shipwrecked  English  sailors.  Most  are  members  of 
well-defined  clans.  Old  words  and  phrases  survive  and  the  distinctive  banker 
enunciation  gives  the  speech  a  special  quality.  Couthy  is  the  banker's  word 
for  capable;  heerd  for  heard.  "Don't  fault  me  if  I'm  scunnered"  means 
"Don't  blame  me  if  I'm  disgusted."  The  mainland  is  usually  referred  to  as 
the  country,  and  day  begins  at  "calm  daylight."  Disremember  and  disen- 
courage  are  frequently  heard.  Fleech  means  to  flatter,  although  the  native 
is  sparing  with  his  praise. 

In  this  neighborhood  a  "model  T"  is  driven  as  if  it  were  a  ship  in  sail. 
To  turn  left  is  to  "port  the  helm,"  and  when  the  right  front  tire  blows 
out,  "she's  listin'  by  the  starb'rd  beam."  A  wife  riding  in  the  rear  seat  is 
"supercargo  in  the  stern  sheets." 

Towns  are  called  neighborhoods,  and  while  there  are  no  boarding  houses 
proper,  tourists  {comers  n  goers)  find  shelter  along  the  way.  Graves  are 
usually  close  by  the  houses  in  the  yards,  but  there  is  always  the  chance  that 
the  bones  of  the  departed  may  be  blown  out  if  the  winds  are  high.  A  canoe 
is  a  cunner,  and  some  of  the  houses  rest  on  blocks  because  of  the  toids 
(tides). 

The  woods  disappear  at  the  western  end  of  the  island,  which  is  low  and 
wet,  and  marsh  joins  the  sandy  beach. 

HATTER  AS  INLET,  55  m.,  is  the  principal  inlet  on  the  northern  Caro- 
lina coast,  and  famous  for  angling  {boats  available  for  trips  to  the  Gulf 
Stream,  20  miles  offshore).  Dolphin,  amberjack,  tarpon,  sailfish,  marlin, 
and  swordfish  provide  sport  for  deep-sea  fishermen  {fishing  best  in  late  May, 
early  ]une,  and  Oct.). 

Where  the  marsh  and  beach  converge  at  the  inlet  are  traces  of  Fort 
Hatteras  and  its  outlying  flank  defense,  Battery  Clark.  Col.  W.  F.  Martin 
was  in  charge  of  Fort  Hatteras  when,  on  Aug.  27,  1861,  a  Federal  fleet  ap- 
peared, equipped  with  Dahlgren  guns,  secure  beyond  the  range  of  the  old- 
style  smooth-bore  pieces  of  the  Confederate  defenders.  After  most  of  the 
fort's  guns  had  been  silenced,  Federal  troops  landed  on  the  beach,  and 
Colonel  Martin  surrendered,  Aug.  29.  The  fall  of  Fort  Hatteras  opened  to 
Union  forces  an  effective  entrance  into  North  Carolina. 


TOUR       IB 


Elizabeth  City — Weeksville — Halls  Creek;  State  170.  17.5  m. 

Paved  roadbed  between  Elizabeth  City  and  Symons  Creek,  narrow  graded  road  between 
Symons  Creek  and  Halls  Creek. 

State  170  branches  southeast  from  US  17  (see  tour  ia)  in  ELIZABETH 
CITY,  0  m.  {see  Elizabeth  city). 

At  1  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  Elizabeth  City  State  Normal  School  (colored),  1  m.  Started 
in  1 89 1  in  a  single  wooden  building,  the  school  now  occupies  nine,  most  of  which  are 
brick.  Students  work  for  the  school  to  pay  part  of  their  tuition.  About  one-fifth  of  the 
500  students  are  boys.  The  two-year  course  is  for  teacher  training. 

At  a  country  church,  1.5  m.,  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  Enfield  Farm  (private),  2  m.,  on  the  bank  of  the  Pasquotank 
River.  Here  was  erected  in  1670  the  home  of  Thomas  Relfe,  provost  marshal  of  the 
general  court  and  one  of  the  first  vestrymen  of  Pasquotank  Parish.  Two  rooms  of  the 
original  building,  with  brick  walls  3  feet  thick,  are  incorporated  in  the  present  farmhouse. 

Enfield  Farm  was  the  Scene  of  the  Culpepper  Rebellion  in  1678.  The  conduct 
of  acting  Governor  Miller  had  become  so  repugnant  that  the  people  of  the  section,  led 
by  John  Culpepper,  former  surveyor  general  of  South  Carolina,  George  Durant  (see  tour 
1  a),  and  other  planters,  seized  Miller  and  six  members  of  the  council  and  imprisoned 
them  at  Enfield.  They  then  convoked  a  legislature,  appointed  courts  and  for  two  years 
exercised  all  the  rights  and  powers  of  government.  When  Culpepper  went  to  London 
to  defend  his  conduct  the  Lords  Proprietors  declined  to  punish  him.  Arrested  by  royal 
authorities  on  charges  of  embezzlement  and  treason  for  seizing  the  King's  customs, 
he  was  acquitted. 

Cobbs  Point,  formerly  called  Pembroke,  on  Enfield  Farm,  was  the  scene  of  a  minor 
naval  battle  in  1862.  Visible  are  the  remains  of  a  rude  fort,  hastily  thrown  up  to  defend 
the  harbor  when  Federal  gunboats  came  up  the  river  from  Roanoke  Island. 

Bayside  {private),  3  m.,  is  a  Classical  Revival  plantation  house  on  the 
highest  point  of  land  along  the  Pasquotank  River.  It  was  built  by  John 
Hollowell  about  1800.  The  white-columned  mansion  faces  the  highway,  in 
a  setting  of  wide  lawns,  spreading  trees,  and  spacious  gardens.  The  over- 
seer's dwelling  and  one  of  the  slave  cabins  are  still  standing  and  in  use. 

WEEKSVILLE,  7.5  m.  (8  alt.,  no  pop.),  on  New  Begun  Creek,  is  the 
center  of  the  most  fertile  farming  territory  in  northeastern  North  Carolina. 

At  SYMONS  CREEK,  11  m.,  is  the  Site  of  the  First  Quaker  Meet- 
inghouse in  North  Carolina  (1706).  A  marker  indicates  the  Site  of  the 
First  School  in  North  Carolina,  established  in  1705  by  Charles  Griffin, 
a  lay  reader  of  the  Established  Church   sent  out  by  the   Society  for  the 

304 


TOUR     IB  305 

Propagation  of  the  Gospel.  He  was  the  first  professional  teacher  in  North 
Carolina  of  whom  there  is  record. 

NIXONTON,  14.8  m.  (115  pop.),  on  Little  River,  originally  Old  Town, 
was  the  seat  of  Pasquotank  County  until  1800.  Nixonton  was  the  center 
of  a  flourishing  trade  with  the  West  Indies  in  the  early  1800's. 

The  Old  Customhouse  {private),  on  a  hill  sloping  to  the  river,  is  a  one- 
story  wooden  structure  built  in  1745  and  now  serving  as  a  dwelling.  The 
original  structure  contained  three  rooms  and  paneling  that  has  been  removed. 
The  claim  is  made  that  the  lumber,  bricks,  and  paneling  were  brought  from 
England.  Two  rooms  and  two  porches  have  been  added. 

At  HALLS  CREEK,  17.5  m.,  opposite  Halls  Creek  Church,  is  a  memorial 
tablet  marking  the  Site  of  the  Grand  Assembly  of  the  Albemarle 
(1665),  the  first  assembly  of  settlers  ever  held  in  North  Carolina.  It  con- 
vened by  order  of  William  Drummond,  North  Carolina's  first  Governor; 
George  Catchmaid  was  speaker.  The  assembly  petitioned  the  Proprietors  to 
allow  the  North  Carolinians  to  hold  their  lands  under  the  same  conditions 
as  the  Virginians.  Accession  to  this  request  was  made  in  what  is  known  as 
the  Great  Deed  of  Grant  (1668).  Tradition  relates  that  one  of  the  bylaws 
of  the  assembly  provided  that  "the  members  should  wear  shoes,  if  not 
stockings"  during  the  session  of  the  body  and  that  they  "must  not  throw 
their  chicken  and  other  bones  under  the  tree." 


TOUR       I    C 


Junction  with  US  17 — Orton — Old  Brunswick — Southport;  Old  River  Rd. 
26  m. 

Sand-clay  road. 

Hotel  accommodations  at  Southport. 

The  Old  River  Rd.  branches  south  from  US  17,  0  m.  (see  tour  ib), 
4  miles  west  of  Wilmington,  parallels  the  Cape  Fear's  western  bank  through 
woodlands  shaded  by  century-old  oaks. 

CLARENDON  (private),  8  m.,  a  1,000-acre  estate,  in  1730  was  the  seat 
of  Marsden  Campbell.  The  Colonial  frame  house  was  torn  down  about  1920 
to  make  way  for  a  modern  residence.  Clarendon  was  once  the  name  for  the 
whole  Cape  Fear  region. 

TOWN  CREEK,  9  m.  (100  pop.),  is  the  site  of  the  first  settlement 
(1664)  on  the  Cape  Fear  River,  although  a  party  of  New  Englanders  in 
1660  had  attempted  to  settle  here.  In  1661  and  1663  exploring  parties 
from  Barbados,  headed  by  Capt.  William  Hilton,  paved  the  way  for  the 
party  of  royalist  refugees  who  in  1664  established  a  settlement  at  the  mouth 
of  Town  Creek,  which  they  called  Charles  Town.  They  were  joined  the 
following  year  by  other  Barbadians,  among  them  Sir  John  Yeamans,  who 
had  been  appointed  their  Governor.  These  Barbadians  planted  cotton  and 
exported  boards,  staves,  and  shingles.  The  settlement  was  abandoned  in 
1667,  and  in  1670  Yeamans  became  one  of  the  founders  of  the  Charles 
Town  on  the  Ashley  River  in  South  Carolina. 

On  the  Site  of  Lilliput,  10  m.,  was  one  of  the  earliest  plantations  on 
the  river,  that  of  Eleazar  Allen,  receiver  general  of  the  Colonies  for  the 
southern  district  (1745-48),  noted  for  his  hospitality.  According  to  his  tomb- 
stone, he  was  serving  as  chief  justice  of  the  Colony  at  his  death.  Lilliput 
later  became  the  property  and  for  a  time  the  residence  of  Sir  Thomas  Frank- 
land,  a  great-grandson  of  Oliver  Cromwell. 

On  Orton  Plantation  (open  occasionally),  14  m.,  is  the  only  surviving 
mansion  of  the  Colonial  period  on  the  Cape  Fear  River.  The  estate  was 
probably  named  for  the  village  of  Orton  in  the  lake  district  of  England,  seat 
of  the  Moore  family.  The  house  was  built  in  1725  by  "King"  Roger  Moore, 
so  called  because  of  his  imperious  manner.  It  was  subsequently  occupied  by 
his  grandson,  Gen.  Benjamin  Smith,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1810-11). 
Following  a  dispute  between  Benjamin  and  his  brother  James,  the  latter 
dropped  the  name  Smith  to  assume  his  grandmother's  name  of  Rhett,  and 

306 


TOUR     I  C  307 

went  to  South  Carolina  where  he  became  the  founder  of  the  Rhett  family 
of  that  State. 

Entrance  to  the  10,000-acre  estate  is  marked  by  massive  gray  stone  pillars 
surmounted  by  iron  spread-eagles.  The  drive  winds  between  tall  trees  and 
past  ponds  once  planted  with  rice.  Across  the  diked  marshland  were  rails 
for  a  small  car  on  which  visitors  rode  to  the  house  from  the  river. 

On  a  high  bluff  overlooking  the  river  is  the  mansion,  in  a  formal  setting 
of  boxwoods,  camellias,  and  azaleas.  It  is  of  brick,  painted  white,  almost 
square  in  plan,  with  a  Doric  portico.  Above  the  heavy  wooden  entrance 
door  is  a  small  balcony.  Dimensions  of  the  original  building  were  about 
60  by  75  feet,  but  subsequent  owners  added  wings  and  modernized  the 
interior. 

On  Orton  Estate,  half  a  mile  southeast  of  the  mansion,  is  Old  Palace 
Field,  the  site  of  Russellborough.  This  55-acre  tract  was  bought  from  Roger 
Moore's  estate  by  Captain  Russell  of  the  British  Navy,  who  once  owned 
the  Campbelltown  tract  {see  fayetteville).  It  was  later  sold  to  Arthur 
Dobbs,  Governor  (1754-65),  and  in  1767  became  the  property  of  William 
Tryon,  Governor  (1765-71).  A  rubble  of  ruins,  almost  hidden  by  trees 
and  vines,  is  all  that  remains  of  the  winter  mansion  occupied  by  Tryon 
when  he  was  in  Brunswick.  Here  a  marker,  of  brick  and  stone  from 
the  ruins,  commemorates  the  Stamp  Act  Defiance.  When  the  British 
Parliament  passed  the  Stamp  Act,  citizens  of  the  region,  headed  by  Alder- 
man Moses  John  DeRossett,  demanded  and  received  the  resignation  of  Stamp 
Master  William  Houston  {see  Wilmington),  and  by  ordered  demonstra- 
tions so  evinced  their  dissatisfaction  that  when  H.M.S.  Diligence  arrived  in 
November  1765  with  the  stamps,  they  were  not  unloaded.  Incited  by  the 
seizure  of  two  ships  whose  papers  had  not  been  stamped,  1,000  partly  armed 
citizens,  headed  by  Speaker  John  Ashe  and  Col.  Hugh  Waddell,  proceeded 
to  Brunswick.  On  Feb.  19,  1766,  in  defiance  of  two  armed  British  vessels, 
the  Diligence  and  the  Viper,  and  garrisoned  Fort  Johnston  at  the  river's 
mouth,  the  mob  forced  the  release  of  the  seized  ships  and  the  resignation 
of  William  Pennington,  His  Majesty's  comptroller,  who  agreed  to  issue  no 
more  stamped  paper.  Two  months  later  Parliament  repealed  the  act. 

Just  south  of  Old  Palace  Field  is  the  Site  of  Old  Brunswick,  15  m., 
founded  in  1725  when  Col.  Maurice  Moore  laid  off  the  town  and  named 
both  town  and  county  for  the  Prince  of  Brunswick.  After  the  Tuscarora 
massacres  of  171 1  {see  tour  2),  Colonel  Moore  headed  the  relief  force  from 
South  Carolina  and,  attracted  by  the  river  lands  as  he  crossed  the  Cape  Fear, 
conceived  the  idea  of  settling  here.  This  was  not  possible  until  1725,  the 
Lords  Proprietors  having  prohibited  settlements  within  20  miles  of  the  river 
up  to  that  time.  In  1731  Dr.  John  Brickell,  in  his  Natural  History  of  North- 
Carolina,  wrote:  "Brunswick  Town  is  most  delightfully  seated,  on  the 
South-side  of  that  Noble  River  Cape  Fear;  and  no  doubt  but  it  will  be 
very  considerable  in  a  short  time,  by  its  great  trade,  the  number  of  Mer- 
chants, and  rich  planters,  that  are  settled  upon  its  banks."  As  many  as  42 
vessels  carrying  valuable  cargoes  sailed  from  the  port  in  one  year. 

After  Spanish  vessels  attacked,  captured,  and  partially  destroyed  the  town 


308  TOURS 

in  1748,  it  was  almost  immediately  retaken  and  rebuilt.  A  painting,  Ecce 
Homo,  taken  from  a  captured  Spanish  ship,  is  in  St.  James  Church,  Wil- 
mington. Cornelius  Harnett  {see  Wilmington)  was  reared  here  in  his 
father's  Brunswick  tavern. 

As  early  as  1733  Brunswick  felt  the  growing  importance  of  New  Town 
(Wilmington).  The  roadstead  had  proved  unsafe  in  stormy  weather  and 
exposed  to  pirates,  and  although  royal  Governors  lived  here  during  the 
winter  months,  everyone  fled  in  summer  to  escape  the  swarms  of  mosquitoes. 
In  1735  Gov.  Gabriel  Johnston  bought  land  at  Wilmington  and  moved 
courts,  council  and  port  offices  thither.  Wilmington  flourished  while  Bruns- 
wick dwindled,  and  after  the  Revolutionary  War  was  finally  abandoned. 

St.  Philip's  Church  (1740-65)  is  Brunswick's  most  noted  ruin.  Cedar 
trees  grow  within  the  33-inch-thick  brick  walls  which  survived  the  Federal 
bombardment  of  Fort  Anderson.  The  chancel  windows,  slender  and  arched, 
are  flanked  by  doorways.  The  side  walls  have  four  windows  each,  15  feet 
high  and  7  feet  wide.  At  first  utilizing  a  mere  shed,  Brunswick  churchmen 
improved  their  place  of  worship  until  finally  in  1765  this  once-handsome 
little  edifice  was  sufficiently  completed  for  services.  Built  of  English  brick 
combined  with  some  locally  made,  it  was  His  Majesty's  Chapel  in  the  Colony, 
and  the  royal  Governors,  Dobbs  and  Tryon,  had  their  pews  raised  above  the 
others.  Behind  the  church  lie  many  of  Brunswick's  citizens.  Among  them 
are  Arthur  Dobbs,  royal  Governor  (1754-65),  and  Alfred  Moore,  Justice 
(1799-1805)  of  the  U.  S.  Supreme  Court  {see  tour  //). 

At  18  m.  is  the  Site  of  Fort  Anderson,  part  of  the  defense  line  of  Wil- 
mington, captured  by  Union  troops  after  a  severe  bombardment,  Feb.  17-19, 
1865.  Only  grass-clad  ruins  mark  the  spot. 

Howes  Point,  19  m.,  is  the  site  of  the  plantation  of  Job  Howe,  birthplace 
of  Gen.  Robert  Howe  (1732-86),  aide  of  George  Washington.  The  planta- 
tion was  plundered  by  British  troops  under  Cornwallis,  May  12,  1776.  After 
destroying  mills  in  the  vicinity,  the  British  embarked  for  Charleston.  Their 
advance  upon  Orton's  mill  was  halted  at  a  small  spring-fed  lake  since  called 
Liberty  Pond. 

The  Old  River  Rd.  runs  to  SOUTHPORT,  26  m.    {see  tour   ib). 


TOUR 


Junction  with  US  158 — Tarboro — Kinston — Junction  with  US  17;  US  258. 
143  m. 

Seaboard   Air    Line   R.R.    parallels    the   route   between    Murfreesboro    and    Rich    Square; 
Atlantic  Coast  Line   R.R.   between   Scotland  Neck   and   Tarboro;   Eastern  Carolina   R.R. 
between  Tarboro  and  Farmville;  Norfolk  Southern  R.R.  between  Snow  Hill  and  Kinston. 
Roadbed  paved  throughout. 
Hotels  in  towns;  tourist  homes  and  camps  along  route. 

US  258  traverses  a  section  of  the  Coastal  Plain  where  bright-leaf  tobacco 
is  the  staple  crop.  Small  farms  lie  between  pine  forests  containing  a  few 
maple,  ash,  gum,  oak,  and  hickory  trees.  The  highway  crosses  several 
eastward-flowing  rivers  which  in  spring  and  fall  rise  to  torrential  proportions 
and  rage  through  fertile  bottom  lands. 

At  0  m.  US  258  branches  south  from  US  158  {see  tour  24a),  2  miles 
west  of  Murfreesboro. 

The  route  crosses  the  Roanoke  River,  22  m.,  on  Edwards  Ferry  Bridge, 
built  in  1926  and  named  for  an  early  ferry  run  by  Cullen  Edwards,  holder 
of  a  pre-Revolutionary  land  grant.  Indians  called  the  Roanoke  the  River  of 
Death,  because  of  its  rapids  and  sudden  floods.  Near  this  point  Gilbert 
Elliott  of  Elizabeth  City  built  the  Confederate  ironclad  ram  Albemarle  {see 
tour  26a). 

Old  Trinity  Episcopal  Church  (L),  28  m.,  is  built  of  deep-toned  red 
brick  in  modified  English  Gothic  style.  Ivy  growing  on  the  church  tower 
was  reputedly  brought  from  Westminster  Abbey.  The  church  was  organized 
in  1832  from  Kehukee  Parish.  In  the  garden-like  cemetery  is  the  Tomb 
of  Whitmel  Hill  (1743-97)?  colonel  in  the  Continental  Army.  As  a  mem- 
ber of  the  State  constitutional  convention  at  Halifax  in  1776,  he  was  on  the 
committee  that  drafted  the  document  and  was  a  member  of  the  Continental 
Congress  (1778-81)  and  of  the  State  senate.  In  the  Hillsboro  convention  of 
1788  he  stood  with  the  Johnston-Iredell-Davie  minority  for  adoption  of  the 
Federal  Constitution. 

SCOTLAND  NECK,  29  m.  (102  alt.,  2,339  P°P-)>  on  a  fertile  neck  of 
land  in  a  bend  of  the  Roanoke  River,  was  settled  in  1722  by  a  colony  of 
Scottish  Highlanders  from  Virginia.  Several  factories  manufacture  peanut 
products  and  there  are  two  hosiery  mills.  The  brick  building  of  Vine  Hill 
Academy,  founded  in  18 10,  still  stands,  though  it  is  now  used  for  storage. 
Until  closed  in  the  early  1900's  the  school  exerted  an  important  influence  in 
this  part  of  the  State. 

309 


310  TOURS 

Legend  has  it  that  after  the  Stuart  restoration,  John  and  Edward  Crom- 
well, brothers  of  the  Protector,  fled  to  America  (1675).  While  on  the  ocean 
they  decided  to  change  their  names  to  escape  possible  persecution  and  per- 
formed a  solemn  ceremony  of  writing  their  names  on  paper  and  cutting 
the  letter  M  from  the  Cromwell  and  casting  it  into  the  sea.  The  brothers 
first  landed  in  New  Jersey,  but  later  settled  near  Scotland  Neck,  at  what  is 
still  called  Crowell's  Crossroads. 

At  37  m.  US  258  crosses  Deep  Creek,  whose  waters  are  darkened  by 
passage  through  upland  swamps  of  cypress  and  juniper. 

PRINCEVILLE,  49  m.  (39  alt.,  614  pop.),  is  one  of  the  country's  few 
incorporated  villages  politically  dominated  by  Negroes.  Chartered  in  1885, 
it  has  an  all-Negro  administration  including  a  volunteer  fire  company.  The 
place  is  really  a  suburb  of  Tarboro,  where  most  of  its  male  inhabitants  are 
employed. 

At  Prince ville  is  the  junction  with  US  64  {see  tour  26a),  which  unites 
with  US  258  between  Princeville  and  Tarboro. 

TARBORO,  50  m.  (58  alt.,  6,379  pop.),  seat  of  Edgecombe  County,  is 
a  tobacco-selling  and  cotton-manufacturing  center  on  the  western  bank  of 
Tar  River.  The  county  was  formed  in  1735  and  named  for  the  Earl  of 
Edgecombe,  British  commissioner  for  trade  and  plantations.  The  town  was 
laid  out  in  1760  on  or  near  the  site  of  an  earlier  Tar  Burrow  established  by 
people  of  English  descent  from  Virginia.  At  the  insistence  of  the  rector  of 
St.  Mary's  Parish,  such  names  as  St.  John,  St.  Andrew,  and  St.  Patrick  were 
given  to  the  shady  winding  streets  branching  from  Tarboro  Common. 

Tarboro  was  one  of  several  towns  that  played  host  to  North  Carolina's 
itinerant  legislature  in  its  early  days.  The  1787  session,  with  180  members 
in  attendance,  met  here.  About  50  legislators  were  packed  into  Toole's 
Tavern;  others  were  quartered  in  private  homes.  William  Attmore,  a  Phila- 
delphia merchant  in  Tarboro  at  the  time,  notes  in  his  journal:  "Every  family 
almost  received  some  of  the  members;  Beds  were  borrowed  from  the 
Country,  3  or  4  placed  in  a  room  and  two  of  their  Honors  in  a  bed."  After 
the  fuel  had  been  exhausted  at  the  tavern,  the  members  resorted  to  "Drams  of 
some  kind  or  other  before  Breakfast;  sometimes  Gin,  Cherrybounce,  Egg 
Nog,  etc." 

The  assembly  met  at  the  courthouse;  it  had  a  long  room  for  the  commons 
and  a  smaller  room  for  the  senate.  Every  member  sat  with  his  hat  on  except 
when  addressing  the  chair.  Members  gambled  in  a  tavern  at  an  "E.O. 
table"  brought  thither  by  a  Mr.  Faulkner  of  Philadelphia,  and  at  other  games, 
one  New  Bern  trader  losing  £600  in  a  night. 

In  providing  entertainment  for  the  visitors,  attempts  were  made  to  "repre- 
sent dramatic  pieces,  but  with  very  bad  success.  .  .  .  Two  of  the  actresses 
were  adventuresses  from  Charleston."  One  Billy  Ford  emerged  from  a  "jovial 
meeting"  of  the  legislature  wearing  a  silk  handkerchief  to  hide  a  black  eye 
caused  by  a  swiftly  hurled  orange  skin.  "Somebody  also  threw  the  leg  of 
a  Turkey  which  miss'd  him,  but  fell  not  guiltless  to  the  floor,  giving  Toole 
a  violent  blow  on  the  back,"  in  which  connection  Attmore  remarks  that  at 


TOUR    2  311 

the  tavern  they  "invited  me  to  go  upstairs  to  be  introduced  to  some  great 
Men,  but  I  was  engaged!" 

Edgecombe  County's  principal  crops  are  cotton,  tobacco,  and  peanuts; 
Tarboro  factories  manufacture  cotton  cloth,  cottonseed  products,  veneers, 
corn  meal,  and  feed.  The  municipality  operates  a  creamery  and  maintains 
a  high  standard  for  its  milk  supply. 

Tarboro  Common,  a  shaded  park  in  the  center  of  the  business  section, 
contains  a  monument  to  Col.  Louis  D.  Wilson  (1789-1847),  who  represented 
Edgecombe  County  for  19  years  in  the  general  assembly.  In  the  course  of  a 
speech  urging  North  Carolina's  participation  in  the  war  against  Mexico,  a 
younger  senator  remarked  that  it  was  well  enough  for  Wilson  to  favor  "this 
contemptible  war,"  as  he  was  too  old  to  go.  Wilson  rallied  a  volunteer  militia 
from  Edgecombe,  and  proceeded  to  Mexico.  He  died  of  fever  at  Vera  Cruz. 
Wilson  and  Wilson  County  bear  his  name  (see  tour  3).  Other  monuments 
honor  Confederate  soldiers  of  Edgecombe  County  and  Henry  L.  Wyatt, 
slain  at  Bethel  Church,  June  10,  1861,  whose  death  was  remembered  by  his 
Confederate  comrades  as  the  "First  at  Bethel"  (see  raleigh). 

Local  legend  places  the  Bark  House  (private),  501  W.  Wilson  St.,  on  the 
site  of  an  early  fort  built  by  settlers  as  protection  against  Indians,  who  were 
numerous  in  the  region  until  about  1720.  The  frame  structure  is  covered 
over  with  slabs  of  bark. 

Dr.  J.  P.  Keech's  Office  (open),  115  E.  Church  St.,  contains  a  collection 
of  early  novels  and  school  texts,  Indian  relics,  old  weapons,  and  wooden 
gavels  from  a  community  house  erected  by  Thomas  Blount  in  1808. 

Calvary  Episcopal  Church,  NE.  corner  Church  and  David  Sts.,  was  or- 
ganized as  St.  Mary's  Parish  in  1741.  The  present  building,  third  on  the  site, 
was  begun  in  i860,  though  not  completed  until  1867.  Its  twin  towers  are 
green  with  English  ivy.  In  the  wall-enclosed  churchyard  is  the  Grave  of 
William  Dorsey  Pender  (1834-63),  killed  at  Gettysburg,  youngest  major 
general  in  the  Confederate  Army.  Here  also  is  the  Grave  of  Col.  William 
Lawrence  Saunders,  secretary  of  state  of  North  Carolina  (1879-91)  and 
compiler  of  the  Colonial  Records  of  North  Carolina.  His  tombstone  bears 
the  statement,  "I  decline  to  answer,"  made  by  Colonel  Saunders  when  ques- 
tioned in  a  Ku  Klux  Klan  investigation  (see  tour  //). 

At  59  m.  is  the  junction  with  paved  State  43. 

Left  on  State  43  to  the  junction  with  an  improved  road,  3.2  m. ;  L.  1  m.  on  this  road 
to  Bracebridge  Hall  {private),  birthplace  and  lifetime  residence  of  Elias  Carr,  leader 
in  the  agrarian  movement  in  the  1890's  and  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1893-97). 
The  two-story  mansion  with  Doric  portico,  set  in  a  grove  of  oaks  with  the  usual 
dependencies,  was  probably  built  in  the  i83o's. 

FARMVILLE,  75  m.  (82  alt.,  2,056  pop.),  is  an  agricultural  and  tobacco- 
marketing  center  with  warehouses  scattered  about  the  town. 

Farmville  is  at  the  junction  with  US  264  (see  tour  27). 

At  84  m.  is  a  bronze  tablet  on  a  boulder  marking  the  course  of  the  Old 
Hull  Rd.,  cut  by  British  troops  during  the  Revolution.  A  second  tablet  on 


312  TOURS 

the  boulder  indicates  the  Grave  of  Gen.  Thomas  Holliday,  Greene  County 
soldier  of  the  War  of  1812. 

SNOW  HILL,  87  m.  (64  alt.,  826  pop.),  seat  of  Greene  County,  is  an 
agricultural  center  in  a  prosperous  tobacco-producing  area.  It  was  founded 
in  1799  but  not  incorporated  until  1855. 

Snow  Hill  is  on  the  site  of  the  Indian  town  of  Cotechney,  the  Tuscarora 
stronghold,  to  which  in  171 1  were  brought  the  captives  John  Lawson  and 
Baron  de  GrafTenried,  founders  of  New  Bern  (see  new  bern).  Lawson,  who 
as  surveyor  general  of  North  Carolina  had  disposed  of  large  areas  of  land 
claimed  by  the  Indians,  was  tortured  to  death.  Legend  says  his  captors  thrust 
lightwood  splinters  into  his  flesh  and  set  them  afire.  De  Graffenried  was 
released  after  six  months'  imprisonment. 

Greene  County,  named  for  Revolutionary  Gen.  Nathanael  Greene,  was 
laid  out  in  1791  from  the  now  extinct  Dobbs  County.  It  was  first  named 
for  James  Glasgow,  but  was  renamed  in  1799  after  Glasgow  had  been  con- 
victed of  fraud  in  connection  with  the  issuance  of  land  grants. 

When  Samuel  Ashe,  Governor  (1795-98),  heard  of  Glasgow's  plans  to 
remove  incriminating  records  and  burn  the  statehouse  at  Raleigh,  his  com- 
ment was,  "An  angel  has  fallen."  A  special  court  of  circuit  judges  found 
Glasgow  and  his  associates  guilty.  He  was  fined  ^2,000,  but  the  Negro, 
who  at  his  behest  had  attempted  to  burn  the  statehouse,  was  hanged.  This 
special  court,  directed  by  an  act  of  1799  to  sit  at  Raleigh,  was  the  nucleus  of 
the  State's  highest  tribunal,  an  act  in  1805  constituting  it  the  State  supreme 
court.  Glasgow's  body  was  moved  to  an  unmarked  grave  in  Raleigh. 

Greene  County  was  settled  about  1710  by  families  from  Virginia,  Mary- 
land, and  North  Carolina  counties  to  the  north.  Though  one  of  the  smallest 
counties  in  the  State,  it  is  one  of  the  richest  agriculturally,  yielding  abundant 
crops  of  tobacco,  corn,  and  cotton. 

The  Greene  County  Courthouse  (1935)  is  the  third  to  serve  the  county. 
Constructed  of  brick  and  limestone,  it  is  two  stories  in  height  with  a  third- 
story  attic.  The  symmetrical  facade  is  designed  with  a  portico  of  four  Doric 
columns  and  consonant  Greek  detail.  The  first  courthouse  was  erected  in 
1806. 

The  Episcopal  Church  is  a  simple  four-bay  structure  with  white  over- 
lapped vertical  siding.  A  rude,  unpainted  cross  surmounts  the  peak  of  the 
front  gable  and  a  bell  rack  stands  to  the  left  rear  of  the  church  in  the  yard. 

A  marker  at  the  principal  business  intersection  designates  the  Granville 
Line,  surveyed  in  1743.  Snow  Hill  lies  on  the  southern  boundary  of  the  "one- 
eighth  part"  of  Carolina  retained  by  Lord  Granville  in  1729  when  the  other 
Lords  Proprietors  surrendered  their  charters  (see  history).  This  marker  also 
commemorates  an  Indian  battle  at  Fort  Nohoroco,  a  Tuscarora  fortress 
nearby  on  Contentnea  Creek.  On  Mar.  20-23,  I7I3'  m  perhaps  the  severest 
battle  fought  with  the  Indians  up  to  that  date,  Col.  Maurice  Moore  broke 
the  power  of  the  Tuscarora  and  their  allies  in  North  Carolina.  The  Tus- 
carora surrendered  20  of  their  chief  men  to  Moore  and  later  emigrated  to 
New  York  to  join  the  Five  Nations. 


TOUR    2  313 

Right  from  Snow  Hill  on  paved  State  102  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road,  5.7  m. ;  L. 
0.4  m.  on  this  road  to  the  junction  with  a  lane;  R.  0.2  m.  up  the  lane  to  the  Henry 
Best  House  {private;  open  on  request).  This  was  the  home  of  a  Greene  County  soldier 
of  the  Revolution  and  was  built  probably  in  the  early  1800's.  It  is  a  two-story,  clap- 
boarded  house,  one  room  deep,  with  end  chimneys  and  ell  at  the  rear.  A  two-story 
porch,  the  length  of  the  front,  is  supported  on  two  ranges  of  square  columns,  vaguely 
Doric  in  detail,  which  are  a  later  addition.  There  is  a  fine  dentiled  and  modillioned 
cornice  at  the  rear.  The  upper  gallery  of  the  porch  is  enclosed  by  a  delicate  wood  railing. 
Inside,  a  wainscot  with  beveled  paneling  runs  around  the  hall  and  the  two  lower 
rooms;   the  staircase  has  a  spiral  newel. 

KINSTON,  102  m.  (46  alt.,  11,362  pop.),  on  the  northern  bank  of  the 
Neuse  River,  is  the  seat  of  Lenoir  County  and  a  tobacco  center.  Queen  Street, 
named  for  Charlotte,  queen  of  George  III,  extends  north  from  the  river, 
traverses  the  business  section,  surmounts  a  low  hill,  and  becomes  the  prin- 
cipal residential  avenue.  Old  streets,  with  the  exception  of  Queen,  resemble 
alleys  in  their  narrowness.  Commercial  life  at  Kinston  attains  its  peak  during 
the  tobacco-selling  season  each  fall.  Nine  warehouses,  tobacco  stemmeries, 
three  textile  mills,  a  lumber  mill,  and  radio  broadcasting  station  WFTC  are 
operated  in  the  town. 

The  site  of  Kinston  in  1740  was  the  homestead  of  William  Heritage,  a 
New  Bern  planter  and  jurist  who  had  removed  to  Atkins  Banks  on  the 
Neuse.  In  1762  Governor  Dobbs  authorized  establishment  of  a  town  at 
Atkins  Banks,  with  Richard  Caswell,  Francis  McLewean,  Simon  Bright,  Jr., 
John  Shine,  and  David  Gordon  as  trustees.  They  laid  out  the  town  and 
named  the  streets  for  themselves  and  Heritage.  The  main  street  of  the  new 
King's  Town  (Kingston)  was  designated  King  Street  in  honor  of  George 
III.  During  the  Revolution  zealous  patriots  adopted  the  form  Kinston. 

Lenoir  County,  named  for  Revolutionary  Gen.  William  Lenoir  {see  tour 
iga),  was  formed  in  1791  from  Dobbs  County,  but  before  1758  it  was  part 
of  the  Great  County  of  Bath. 

Before  the  War  between  the  States,  the  Dibble  family  established  a  buggy 
factory  here  and  operated  a  fleet  of  freight  and  passenger  boats  to  New  Bern. 
The  firm,  oldest  in  Kinston,  still  maintains  a  repair  shop.  Among  the  earliest 
industries  was  the  shoe-manufacturing  plant  of  John  Cobb  Washington  and 
George  Washington,  relatives  of  President  Washington.  The  section  near 
the  factory  was  called  Yankee  Row  when  Federal  troops  were  quartered 
there,  Dec.  13-14,  1862. 

On  the  SE.  corner  of  Gordon  and  Heritage  Sts.  is  the  Site  of  the  Birth- 
place of  Dr.  James  Augustus  Washington,  who  with  Dr.  Isaac  E.  Taylor 
in  1839-40  first  administered  medicine  with  a  hypodermic  needle. 

The  Lenoir  County  Courthouse  (1887),  SE.  corner  Queen  and  King 
Sts.,  a  two-story  white  stuccoed  building  with  a  clock  cupola,  replaced  two 
earlier  ones.  The  first  of  wood  (1792)  was  burned.  A  brick  building  erected 
in  1845  was  set  afire  by  the  clerk  of  the  court  in  1878.  The  few  records  that 
could  be  saved  were  removed  to  a  store  building  which  the  determined  clerk 
fired  a  few  nights  later.  The  incendiary  served  a  term  in  the  penitentiary, 
but  Lenoir  is  without  its  early  records. 

On  the  courthouse  green  is  a  Monument  to  Richard  Caswell  (1729-89), 


314  TOURS 

a  Maryland  surveyor  who  came  to  North  Carolina  with  letters  to  Governor 
Johnston.  After  serving  as  deputy  surveyor  of  the  Colony  and  clerk  of  Orange 
County  Court,  he  started  his  long  career  in  the  general  assembly  (1754-71), 
where  he  evinced  vigorous  interest  in  court  reforms.  Caswell  commanded 
Tryon's  right  wing  at  Alamance  (see  tour  25)  and  led  a  patriot  force  at 
Moores  Creek  Bridge  {see  tour  29).  He  was  a  delegate  to  the  Continental 
Congress  (1774-76)  and  first  Governor  under  the  constitution  (1776-80), 
during  which  time  he  helped  organize  and  equip  troops.  In  1780  he  was 
elevated  to  a  major  generalship  in  command  of  the  entire  State  militia.  He 
served  as  Governor  a  second  time  (1785-87),  and  died  in  1789  while  Speaker 
of  the  assembly  at  Fayetteville.  His  body  was  returned  to  Kinston,  where 
he  had  resided  for  25  years  (see  tour  28). 

The  Public  Library  (open  9-5  weekdays},  109  King  St.  opposite  the  court- 
house, is  supported  jointly  by  the  city  and  its  civic  organizations.  The  central 
section  of  the  house,  two  stories  in  height,  is  flanked  by  one-story  wings. 
Usually  referred  to  as  the  Peebles  House,  it  is  the  oldest  in  Kinston,  having 
been  built  by  a  man  named  Lovick  and  sold  to  Abner  Nash  in  1824.  Re- 
modeling has  changed  its  original  appearance. 

St.  Mary's  Episcopal  Church,  SW.  corner  King  and  Independent  Sts., 
is  a  red  brick  structure  built  in  1901  on  a  cruciform  plan,  with  a  tower  topped 
with  battlements  to  the  left  of  the  facade.  The  organization  of  its  parish 
antedates  the  act  establishing  the  town  of  Kinston. 

Kinston  is  at  the  junction  with  US  70  (see  tour  28). 

At  103  m.  US  258  crosses  the  Neuse  River. 

At  103.1  m.  is  the  junction  with  paved  State  55. 

Left  on  State  55  to  the  junction  with  paved  State  12,  0.7  m. ;  R.  14.2  m.  on  State 
12  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  R.  2.7  m.  on  the  dirt  road  to  the  Whitaker 
Plantation  House  {private),  a  story-and-a-half  structure,  sloping  in  the  manner  of  a 
New  England  "salt-box"  to  one  story  at  the  rear,  with  extended  front  porch  on  square 
piers.  The  pegged  frame  house  is  covered  with  weatherboarding.  The  massive  right 
chimney  is  still  standing  but  only  the  base  of  the  left  remains.  Plainly  visible  in  the  one- 
story  section  are  holes  made  by  a  cannon  ball  which  went  through  the  house  during  the 
War  between  the  States.  Here  on  Mar.  8,  1865,  Gen.  Braxton  Bragg  repulsed  Federal 
forces  led  by  General  Cox,  capturing  many  prisoners.  This  was  one  of  the  last  Con- 
federate victories,  since  Federal  reinforcements  forced  Bragg  to  retire  immediately  to 
Goldsboro.  Twelve  days  later  these  same  Confederate  troops  met  defeat  in  the  "last  stand 
of  the  Confederacy"  at  Bentonville   {see  tour  5). 

RICHLANDS,  131  m.  (64  alt.,  503  pop.),  is  a  sawmill  and  farming  town 
that  grew  up  on  Avirett,  ante-bellum  plantation  of  James  Battle,  who  owned 
the  7-mile  stretch  of  land  from  this  point  to  Catherine  Lake. 

At  143  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  17  (see  tour  ib),  1  mile  west  of  Jack- 
sonville. 


TOUR 


(Emporia,   Va.) — Rocky   Mount — Fayetteville — Lumberton — (Florence,   S. 

C);  US  301. 

Virginia  Line — South  Carolina  Line,  196  m. 

Atlantic  Coast  Line  R.R.  parallels  entire  route;  Seaboard  Air  Line  R.R.  between  Garysburg 

and  Weldon. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  cities  and  towns;  tourist  homes,  inns,  and  camps  at  intervals. 

Section  a.  VIRGINIA  LINE  to  WILSON;  64  m.  US  301 

Between  the  Virginia  Line  and  Wilson,  US  301  runs  through  the  Coastal 
Plain,  traversing  a  countryside  broken  by  pine  forests,  stands  of  hardwood, 
and  occasional  swamps.  Sand-clay  roads  lead  into  farming  country  that  pro- 
duces peanuts,  tobacco,  cotton,  potatoes,  and  corn.  Rivers  on  the  lower  slopes 
of  the  Piedmont  Plateau  have  been  developed  into  power  sources  for  manu- 
facturing enterprises. 

US  301  crosses  the  Virginia-North  Carolina  Line,  0  m.,  11  miles  south  of 
Emporia,  Va.  (see  va.  tour  14). 

The  route  follows  part  of  the  old  Petersburg-to-Halifax  highway  used  by 
Cornwallis'  army  in  1781,  and  over  it  southern  troops  hauled  supplies  during 
the  siege  of  Petersburg  in  1864-65. 

GARYSBURG,  7  m.  (145  alt.,  284  pop.),  is  a  farm  village  at  the  junction 
with  US  158  (see  tour  24a). 

At  8  m.  a  steel  and  concrete  bridge  spans  the  Roanoke  River,  100  feet 
below. 

WELDON,  9  m.  (77  alt.,  2,323  pop.),  the  market  town  of  a  peanut- 
growing  district,  began  to  assume  importance  after  railroad  links  from  Vir- 
ginia had  been  built  in  1832-34.  When  these  terminals  were  connected  with 
Wilmington  on  completion  of  the  Wilmington  &  Raleigh  R.  R.,  in  1840,  the 
161.5-mile  stretch  was  described  as  the  longest  railroad  in  the  world.  The 
line  was  renamed  the  Wilmington  &  Weldon  R.  R.  in  1854. 

In  1835  a  9-mile  canal  was  chartered  from  Rock  Landing  to  Weldon's 
Orchard,  in  which  the  masonry  of  the  three  original  locks  is  still  sound. 
Power  is  developed  from  the  Roanoke  River.  Besides  cotton  and  knitting 
mills,  Weldon  has  peanut-processing  factories,  tobacco  warehouses,  a  brick 
plant,  and  lumberyards.  Forests  and  streams  of  the  vicinity  abound  with  game 
and  fish. 

315 


316  TOURS 

Before  the  first  frosts  of  fall  the  peanuts  grown  throughout  this  section 
are  plowed  out  and,  still  attached  to  their  vines,  are  stacked  in  the  fields  to 
cure  for  several  weeks.  The  actual  harvest  is  marked  by  clouds  of  dust  attend- 
ing the  operation  of  the  giant  mechanical  "pickers"  as  the  threshing-machines 
are  called  that  dot  the  fields  among  the  black  stacks. 

HALIFAX,  15  m.  (135  alt.,  321  pop.),  ancient  borough  town  and  seat 
of  Halifax  County,  was  the  scene  of  North  Carolina's  first  constitutional 
convention.  Men  whose  names  live  in  the  State's  early  history  walked  beneath 
the  oaks  and  sycamores  along  narrow,  crooked  King,  Dobbs,  and  Granville 
Streets  in  the  days  when  Halifax  was  noted  for  its  gay  social  life. 

As  early  as  1723  settlers  were  established  in  this  region,  and  when  the 
county  was  set  up  in  1757,  it  was  named  for  the  second  Earl  of  Halifax, 
president  of  the  British  board  of  trade,  which  then  administered  Colonial 
affairs.  In  1758  Halifax  succeeded  the  older  Enfield  as  the  county  seat.  In 
1760  Halifax  was  made  a  borough  and  from  1776  to  1782  nearly  every  session 
of  the  general  assembly  was  held  here. 

Agriculture  has  always  been  the  chief  occupation  in  this  section  of  the 
State  and  the  factories  that  have  grown  up  relate  to  agriculture:  peanut- 
processing  plants,  cottonseed  oil  mills,  and  fertilizer  factories. 

The  Courthouse  Green,  part  of  the  4  acres  set  aside  for  public  buildings 
when  the  town  was  laid  out  in  1758,  is  at  the  intersection  of  King  (Main) 
St.  and  the  Weldon  Rd.  The  Halifax  County  Courthouse  (1910),  a  brick 
structure  with  a  Corinthian  portico  and  surmounted  with  a  dome,  succeeds 
two  previous  buildings  (1759  and  1847).  When  the  first  courthouse  was 
built  here,  the  office  of  the  clerk  of  the  court  occupied  a  separate  building. 
In  the  archives  is  a  complete  set  of  will  books,  beginning  in  1759.  From  a 
platform  in  front  of  the  first  courthouse,  on  Aug.  1,  1776,  Cornelius  Harnett 
(see  Wilmington)  read  the  Declaration  of  Independence  to  the  assembled 
citizens  who  carried  him  through  the  streets  on  their  shoulders.  On  the 
green  is  a  marker  honoring  Brig.  Gen.  Junius  Daniel  (1828-64),  gallant 
Halifax  soldier  killed  at  the  Battle  of  Spottsylvania  and  buried  in  an  un- 
marked grave  in  the  old  Colonial  Churchyard. 

The  Old  Jail  (closed),  two  blocks  NE.  of  the  courthouse  on  King  St.,  is 
a  high  square  structure  built  in  1759  and  used  (1939)  for  a  storehouse.  Be- 
hind the  barred  windows  in  its  two-foot-thick  brick  walls,  Flora  Macdonald, 
the  Scottish  heroine  who  had  helped  Prince  Charlie  to  escape,  visited  her 
husband,  Alan,  after  his  capture  at  the  Battle  of  Moores  Creek  Bridge  (see 
tour  2g).  After  his  liberation,  Alan  rejoined  his  wife  in  Scotland. 

Near  the  jail  is  the  Site  of  the  Eagle  Hotel,  designated  by  a  marker. 
This  old  hostelry  served  as  headquarters  for  members  of  Provincial  con- 
gresses and  assemblies  that  met  in  Halifax.  Cornwallis  and  Tarleton  lodged 
at  the  inn  when  they  arrived  May  4,  1781,  and  with  4,000  troops  occupied 
the  town  for  about  a  week.  The  tradition  is  that  great  banquets  and  balls 
were  held  at  the  Eagle  Hotel  for  President  Washington  on  Apr.  17,  1791, 
and  for  the  Marquis  de  Lafayette  on  Feb.  27,  1825. 

Adjacent  to  the  jail  is  the  old  Clerk's  Office  (private),  a  one-story,  red 


TOUR    3  317 

brick  building  with  swinging  iron  shutters,  constructed  about  1780.  After  its 
use  as  the  office  of  the  clerk  of  the  court  it  was  the  printing  shop  of  Abraham 
Hodge,  who  came  from  New  Bern  to  Halifax  in  1784  to  publish  a  weekly 
newspaper,  the  Journal.  The  house  is  (1939)  a  Negro  dwelling. 

Across  the  road  are  (R)  the  Colonial  Churchyard  and  the  Site  of 
Quanky  Chapel  (Church  of  England),  a  frame  structure  (1760)  in  which 
all  denominations  worshiped  between  1820  and  1830.  Buried  in  the  cedar- 
shaded  enclosure  are  many  of  Halifax's  early  citizens,  including  Abraham 
Hodge  (1755-1805). 

The  Masonic  Temple  (not  open),  Weldon  Rd.  W.  of  the  courthouse,  a 
two-story  clapboarded  structure,  30  by  30  feet,  was  erected  shortly  after 
1769,  and  is  the  oldest  Masonic  temple  built  for  that  purpose  and  still  in  use 
in  the  United  States.  The  first  floor  was  used  for  a  schoolroom  until  1829. 
The  Royal  White  Hart  Lodge  held  its  first  meeting  in  1764,  though  not 
chartered  until  1767.  The  master's  chair  was  installed  in  1765,  silver  candle- 
sticks in  1784,  and  the  handsome  ballot  box  in  1820.  A  bell,  cast  in  1810, 
hangs  between  10-foot  posts  in  the  yard. 

In  the  adjoining  sedge  field  is  a  fenced  enclosure;  the  plaque  on  the  gate 
bears  the  inscription:  "The  grave  of  montfort.  This  gate  swings  only  by 
order  of  the  Worshipful  Master  of  Royal  White  Hart  Lodge."  Col.  Joseph 
Montfort  (1724-76)  was  clerk  of  Halifax  court  from  1758  until  his  death, 
clerk  of  the  district  court,  town  commissioner,  and  a  member  of  several 
Colonial  assemblies.  In  1772  he  received  from  the  Duke  of  Beaufort,  grand 
master  of  Masons  of  Great  Britain,  an  appointment  as  Provincial  grand  mas- 
ter of  North  America. 

Northwest  of  the  Masonic  Temple  on  the  Weldon  Rd.  (L)  is  Loretta 
(private),  a  gray  clapboard  house  with  sharply  pitched  roof,  central  gable, 
and  an  ornate  curving  front  porch,  somewhat  remodeled  since  it  was  the 
Halifax  home  (1783-1805)  of  Gen.  William  R.  Davie  (1756-1820).  One  of 
North  Carolina's  five  delegates  to  the  1787  Constitutional  Convention  in 
Philadelphia,  Davie  was  instrumental  in  securing  from  the  general  assembly 
in  1789  an  act  to  establish  the  University  of  North  Carolina,  and  as  grand 
master  of  Masons  in  the  State  laid  the  cornerstones  of  the  university's  first 
two  buildings  (see  chapel  hill).  In  1798  Davie  was  elected  Governor,  but 
resigned  in  1799  to  become  Ambassador  to  France.  After  his  defeat  for  a 
seat  in  Congress,  in  1805  he  retired  to  Tivoli  plantation  near  Landford, 
S.  C,  where  he  remained  until  his  death. 

The  Grove,  in  the  SW.  part  of  Halifax,  was  the  property  of  Willie  (pro- 
nounced Wiley)  Jones  (1741-1822).  The  Colonial  mansion  he  built  on  this 
estate  in  1765  was  famous  for  its  lavish  hospitality,  racing  stable,  and  track. 
Nothing  remains  of  the  house  but  a  brick  chimney.  Jones,  planter,  legislator, 
and  coauthor  of  the  first  State  constitution,  acted  as  Governor  of  North  Caro- 
lina in  1776  while  president  of  the  council  of  safety.  He  served  several  terms 
in  the  Continental  Congress  and  as  the  ultra  States'-rights  advocate  opposed 
ratification  of  the  Federal  Constitution  by  the  Hillsboro  convention;  though 
elected  to  the  1787  Constitutional  Convention,  he  declined  to  serve. 


318  TOURS 

John  Paul  Jones,  "father  of  the  American  Navy,"  was  a  guest  at  the  Grove 
for  more  than  a  year.  John  Paul,  as  he  was  then  known,  having  killed  the 
ringleader  of  a  mutiny  on  his  ship  in  1773  and  having  been  advised  to  stay 
in  hiding  for  a  time,  fled  to  America  and  assumed  the  surname  Jones.  There 
is  a  tradition  that  he  selected  the  name  to  honor  his  friends,  Willie  and  Allen 
Jones. 

In  1781  Cornwallis  quartered  a  portion  of  his  troops  at  the  Grove;  during 
the  War  between  the  States.  Confederate  Colonel  McRae  camped  on  the 
estate  with  an  entire  regiment,  and  Union  soldiers  occupied  the  house  at  the 
close  of  the  war. 

St.  Mark's  Episcopal  Church,  King  St.,  was  built  on  the  Grove  property 
in  1830  to  replace  the  old  frame  Colonial  Church.  It  is  of  wood,  painted 
gray,  four  bays  long  with  steeply  pointed  roof  and  belfry  at  the  front.  The 
vertical  siding  has  overlapped  joints.  The  building  was  at  one  time  damaged 
by  fire  and  has  been  remodeled. 

Constitution  House  was  restored  in  1920  and  moved  from  its  original 
site  behind  the  Colonial  Churchyard  to  the  Grove  property.  It  is  a  small, 
square,  clapboarded  frame  building  raised  on  brick  piers,  with  a  narrow 
front  porch,  well-proportioned  doorways,  and  two  outside  brick  chimneys. 
Here  on  Apr.  4,  1776,  139  delegates  to  the  Provincial  Congress  met.  Samuel 
Johnston,  of  Chowan  County  {see  edenton),  as  president  of  the  congress, 
appointed  a  committee  to  "take  into  consideration  the  usurpation  and  vio- 
lences attempted  and  committed  by  the  King  and  Parliament  of  Britain 
against  America."  On  Apr.  12  the  committee  reported,  designating  Joseph 
Hewes,  William  Hooper,  and  John  Penn  as  North  Carolina's  delegates  to 
the  Continental  Congress,  ".  .  .  to  concur  with  the  delegates  from  the  other 
Colonies  in  declaring  Independency,  and  forming  foreign  alliances,  reserv- 
ing to  this  Colony  the  sole  and  exclusive  right  of  forming  a  Constitution 
and  laws  for  this  Colony  .  .  ."  These  Halifax  Resolves  constitute  the  first 
official  action  by  any  Colonial  legislature  for  absolute  separation  from  Great 
Britain  and  for  national  independence.  In  recognition  of  this  fact  the 
North  Carolina  flag  bears  the  date,  and  Apr.  12,  Halifax  Day,  is  a  State 
holiday. 

On  Nov.  12,  1776,  an  elected  congress  assembled  in  Constitution  House, 
drew  up  a  constitution  not  submitted  to  the  people  and  elected  Richard 
Caswell  Governor  by  ordinance  {see  tour  2). 

Across  Quanky  Creek  from  the  Grove  is  the  Site  of  Quanky  Place,  the 
plantation  of  Col.  Nicholas  Long  (1728-98),  a  wealthy  planter  who  served 
as  commissary  general  of  the  North  Carolina  Revolutionary  forces.  Colonel 
and  Mrs.  Long  erected  workshops  here  to  make  implements  of  war,  clothing, 
and  other  supplies  for  the  soldiers.  Tradition  says  the  Longs  entertained 
President  Washington  at  Quanky  Place  in  1791. 

In  one  of  the  dashes  into  Halifax  made  by  the  patriots  while  the  British 
were  in  possession  of  the  town,  an  American  cavalryman  was  cut  off  from 
his  command  on  Quanky  Creek  Bridge.  The  trooper  forced  his  horse  to 
leap  the  railing  and  plunge  into  the  water  30  feet  below;  his  mount  was 
killed  but  he  escaped. 


TOUR    3  319 

ENFIELD,  26  m.  (113  alt.,  2,234  P°P-)>  trie  oldest  town  in  Halifax 
County  and  formerly  a  tobacco-marketing  center,  has  plants  for  the  manu- 
facture of  peanut  products.  From  1745  until  supplanted  by  Halifax  in  1758, 
Enfield,  then  known  as  Huckleberry  Swamp,  was  the  seat  of  Edgecombe 
County.  As  a  protest  against  British  oppression,  in  1759  Francis  Corbin  (see 
edenton)  and  Joshua  Bodley,  agents  of  Lord  Granville,  were  seized  by 
armed  men  and  lodged  in  jail  at  Enfield  until  the  agents  readjusted  their 
captors'  tax  levies. 

At  the  Columbian  Peanut  Plant  (open)  peanuts  are  stored,  cleaned, 
shelled,  and  packed  in  jute  bags  for  shipment. 

Right  from  Enfield  on  a  sand-clay  road  to  Branch  Plantation  (private),  0.7  m.,  home 
of  John  Branch,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1817-20).  He  served  as  U.  S.  Senator 
(1823-29),  Secretary  of  the  Navy  under  Andrew  Jackson,  Congressman,  and  Governor 
of  the  Territory  of  Florida  (1843-45).  The  two-story  house,  painted  gray,  is  one  room 
deep  with  one  end  chimney  at  the  left  and  two  at  the  right.  The  eave  is  lined  with  a 
coarse  dentiled  cornice.  General  Lafayette  is  said  to  have  addressed  admirers  from  the 
upper  porch  in  1825.  Governor  Branch  is  buried  in  the  family  graveyard  100  yards 
east  of  the  house. 

At  27  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  avenue  of  oaks. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  East  Carolina  Industrial  Training  School,  0.3  m.,  a 
college  for  Negroes  whose  four  red  brick  buildings  stand  at  the  corners  of  a  grassy  court. 

At  28  m.  US  301  crosses  FISHING  CREEK  near  which  bones  of  an 
ichthyosaurus  were  excavated  some  years  ago.  On  the  creek  bank  is  a  large 
flat  stone  impressed  with  human  and  animal  footprints  and  intricate  designs. 

WHITAKERS,  33  m.  (134  alt.,  930  pop.),  was  named  for  Richard  and 
Elizabeth  Carey  Whitaker,  the  first  white  settlers  to  venture  into  this  Tus- 
carora  stronghold.  They  settled  on  Fishing  Creek  and  in  1740  built  Whitakers 
Chapel,  a  Church  of  England  chapel  used  by  Methodists  in  1786  when 
Bishop  Asbury  preached  there. 

BATTLEBORO,  38  m.  (131  alt.,  330  pop.),  started  (1840)  as  a  rail- 
road stop  in  a  rich  agricultural  area.  The  station  was  named  for  James  and 
Joseph  Battle,  stockholders  in  the  Wilmington  and  Raleigh  R.  R. 

At  44  m.  is  the  junction  with  paved  State  95. 

Left  on  State  95  to  the  junction  with  a  lane,  4.5  m. ;  R.  on  the  lane  to  the  Battle 
Homestead  (visitors  welcome),  property  of  the  Battle  family  since  c.  1742  when  Elisha 
Battle  purchased  this  rich  Tar  River  bottom  land,  then  a  part  of  Cool  Spring  Plantation, 
from  the  Earl  of  Granville.  Elisha  Battle  was  a  member  of  the  Halifax  convention  in 
1776  and  chairman  of  the  committee  of  the  whole  in  the  assembly  at  Tarboro  in  1787 
for  consideration  of  the  Federal  Constitution,  adoption  of  which  he  opposed  in  1788 
at  Hillsboro. 

The  one-and-a-half  story  house  has  a  gambrel  roof  and  massive  end  chimneys.  In 
the  eastern  chimney  was  a  brick  dated  1742,  lost  in  repairing.  Three  dormers  in  front, 
a  porch  the  length  of  the  house,  and  additions  to  right  and  rear  are  later  alterations. 
The  wide-paneled  doors,  the  12-light  windows,  and  the  interior  paneling  are  excellent 
examples  of  18th-century  craftsmanship.  The  east  facade  has  two  8-light  windows  on 
each  side  of  the  chimneys,  set  high  so  that  a  person  sitting  in  the  room  could  not  be 
shot  from  ambush. 


320  TOURS 

US  301  crosses  Tar  River,  45.5  m.,  on  a  high  concrete  bridge.  Legend 
recalls  that  Cornwallis'  soldiers,  fording  the  river  near  here,  found  their  feet 
black  with  tar  that  had  been  dumped  into  the  river.  Their  observation  that 
anyone  who  waded  North  Carolina  streams  would  acquire  tar  heels  is  said 
to  have  given  North  Carolinians  the  nickname  of  "Tar  Heels." 

ROCKY  MOUNT,  46  m.  (121  alt.,  21,412  pop.),  the  fifth  largest  bright- 
leaf  tobacco  market  in  the  world  (1938)  and  an  industrial  and  railroad 
center,  was  named  for  the  mounds  near  the  site  at  the  Falls  of  the  Tar.  The 
town,  incorporated  in  1867  with  50  inhabitants,  lies  half  in  Nash  and  half 
in  Edgecombe  Counties,  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line  tracks  bisecting  Main  Street 
and  marking  the  county  boundary,  so  that  citizens  living  on  one  side  of  the 
street  have  to  attend  court  in  Nashville  while  those  on  the  other  side  go 
to  Tarboro. 

Rocky  Mount  has  seven  tobacco-redrying  plants  and  10  tobacco-auction 
warehouses  with  a  combined  capacity  of  8,000,000  pounds.  The  output  of  42 
manufacturing  establishments  includes  cotton  yarns,  pile  fabrics,  broad  silks, 
shirts,  overalls,  cottonseed  oil  and  meal,  fertilizer,  cordage,  and  lumber 
products.  From  a  station  on  the  pioneer  Wilmington  &  Raleigh  R.  R.  (1840) 
the  town  has  developed  into  a  modern  railroad  center  and  division  point 
with  repair  shops  and  yards  for  four  divisions  of  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line. 
Rocky  Mount  has  a  radio  broadcasting  station,  WEED,  1420  kc.  The  Gal- 
lopade,  an  annual  spring  carnival,  was  inaugurated  in  1935. 

The  Rocky  Mount  Cotton  Mills  {not  open  to  public),  1151  Falls  Rd., 
second  largest  in  the  State,  were  established  by  Joel  Battle  in  181 8,  and  have 
been  continuously  under  the  management  of  the  Battle  family.  The  original 
building,  burned  in  1863  by  Federal  forces,  was  rebuilt  after  the  war  only 
to  be  destroyed  by  an  incendiary.  Rebuilt  in  1871,  the  plant  has  been  en- 
larged and  modernized.  The  output  is  cotton  yarns. 

Mangum's  Warehouse,  covering  a  city  block,  is  the  scene  of  the  annual 
all-night  June  German  {2nd  Friday  in  June),  given  by  the  Carolina  Cotillion 
Club,  and  attended  by  thousands  of  guests  from  several  States.  This  ball  has 
been  an  important  social  event  since  1880  when  a  group  of  young  men 
formed  the  club.  On  Saturday  night  after  the  ball  Negroes  use  the  same 
warehouse  and  decorations  for  their  June  German. 

The  Thomas  Hackney  Braswell  Memorial  Library,  near  the  junction 
of  US  301  and  State  43,  given  in  1923  by  Dr.  Mark  Russell  Braswell  in 
memory  of  his  son,  contains  a  collection  of  Indian  artifacts,  paper  money,  old 
records,  and  curios.  The  red  brick  building  with  white  limestone  trim  is  of 
one  story  with  end  pavilions  and  a  central  portico. 

Rocky  Mount  is  at  the  junction  with  US  64  {see  tour  26a). 

Right  from  Rocky  Mount  on  State  43  to  the  Lewis  Home  (private),  1.3  m.,  built  in 
1839  by  Bennet  Bunn  on  the  western  bank  of  Tar  River.  The  deep  red  bricks  for  the 
three-story  mansion  are  reputed  to  have  been  brought  from  England  wrapped  individually 
in  paper.  The  house  has  a  hip  roof  and  an  entrance  with  a  simple  fanlighted  doorway 
on  the  second  floor  level.  The  balcony  and  the  four-column  portico,  resting  on  a  raised 
arcadcd   brick   basement,  are  modern. 


TOUR    3  321 

On  State  43  at  5.4  m.  is  the  Dortch  House  (private).  The  old  part,  moved  from  a 
nearby  field  to  be  added  as  a  kitchen  ell  at  the  rear,  was  built  c.  1798;  it  has  a  steep 
roof,  small  windows,  heavy  chimney,  and  fireplace  with  beveled  panels. 

On  the  lower  floor,  front  and  rear,  are  Palladian  windows  framed  with  Ionic  fluted 
pilasters  and  entablature.  The  modillioned  cornice  returns  at  the  corners  and  follows 
the  raked  line  of  the  gable.  Interior  woodwork  includes  a  mahogany  stair  rail,  paneled 
wainscot  and  mantelpieces,  and  finely  carved  door  and  window  casings  with  arabesque 
panels  above.  This  part  of  the  house  was  built  c.  1803. 

At  9.7  m.  on  State  43  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  R.  1.1  m.  on  this  road  to  (L) 
the  Hilliard  Home  (p-ivate),  built  about  1908.  The  pegged  frame  was  brought  to  this 
site  from  Woodlawn,  about  6.5  miles  away,  where  William  and  James  Hilliard  settled 
in  1760.  The  plantation  once  covered  30,000  acres. 

The  Cooper  House  (private),  12  m.,  was  formerly  the  Battle  home.  The  kitchen, 
dining  room,  and  parlor  connected  by  a  passageway  are  later  additions  to  the  original 
small  wooden  building,  which  was  mortised  and  assembled  with  wooden  pegs.  The 
house  stands  on  a  little  hill  on  a  mile-square  tract  purchased  by  William  Battle  from 
the  State  in  1779  for  50  shillings  per  hundred  acres. 

WILSON,  64  m.  (147  alt.,  12,613  P°P-)»  tne  largest  bright-leaf  tobacco 
market  in  the  world  (1938)  and  the  seat  of  Wilson  County,  was  named  for 
Col.  Louis  D.  Wilson  {see  tour  2).  The  county,  formed  in  1855,  was  settled 
largely  by  Irish  and  English  families  who  came  from  Virginia  as  early  as 

I79°- 
Uptown,  Nash  is  a  narrow  and  bustling  business  street,  but  west  of  Pine 

Street  it  broadens  into  a  mile-long,  tree-shaded  arcade  through  a  section  of 
comfortable  homes  surrounded  by  landscaped  lawns  and  gardens.  The  in- 
dustrial section  has  cotton  and  fertilizer  factories,  10  stemmeries  and  redry- 
ing  plants,  and  8  tobacco  warehouses,  including  sprawling  Smith's  Ware- 
house, called  the  world's  largest. 

Tobacco,  the  State's  first  commercial  crop,  originally  produced  only  for 
export,  was  packed  in  huge  hogsheads  and  rolled  through  the  woods  to 
water-edge  inspection  houses  where  sailor-buyers  broke  open  the  casks  for 
examination  before  bargaining.  This  gave  rise  to  the  warehouse  auction 
system  still  used  and  the  practice  of  terming  it  a  "break,"  though  the  loose- 
leaf  method  is  now  employed. 

When  the  graded  tobacco  "hands"  are  "in  order,"  the  farmer  hauls  them 
to  market.  The  warehouses  are  one-story  buildings  with  plenty  of  open  floor 
space  and  numerous  skylights  to  allow  natural  lighting,  as  tobacco  is  judged 
for  color  as  well  as  for  texture  and  aroma.  Lots  are  piled  in  shallow  baskets 
and  arranged  in  rows  down  which  pass  the  auctioneer  and  buyers. 
The  procedure  moves  so  swiftly  that  more  than  300  lots  are  sold  in  an 
hour  and  86,000,000  pounds  have  been  sold  in  a  season.  However,  a 
visitor  may  watch  the  sale  without  understanding  a  word  of  the  auc- 
tioneer's patter  and  without  hearing  a  single  word  spoken  by  a  buyer,  as 
a  mere  gesture  or  change  of  expression  indicates  a  bid  to  the  watchful 
seller. 

A  tobacco  festival  and  exposition  are  held  annually  in  August. 

Wilson's  manufactured  products  include  cotton  yarns,  cottonseed  meal 
and  oil,  fertilizers,  bale  covering,  bus  bodies,  and  wagons.  The  town  main- 
tains a  radio  broadcasting  station,  WGTM,  13 10  kc. 

The  Wilson  County  Courthouse,  Nash  and  Goldsboro  Sts.,  three  stories 


322  TOURS 

and  attic  high,  was  built  in  1924  in  neoclassic  design,  replacing  a  building 
erected  in  1855. 

Fronting  on  Whitehead  and  Lee  Sts.  is  the  12-acre  campus  of  the  Atlantic 
Christian  College,  incorporated  in  1902,  a  coeducational  institution  with 
350  students,  operated  by  the  North  Carolina  Christian  Church.  The  build- 
ings, of  brown  brick,  are  of  various  styles.  The  adjoining  Jacksonville  Farm 
was  bought  by  the  school  in  191 4. 

Natives  of  Wilson  were  Dempsey  Bullock  (1863-1928),  local  poet  and 
historian,  and  Henry  Groves  Connor  (1852-1924),  Associate  Justice  of  the 
North  Carolina  Supreme  Court  and  Federal  district  judge.  Two  sons  of 
Judge  Connor  attained  prominence:  George  W.  Connor,  Associate  Justice 
of  the  North  Carolina  Supreme  Court  (1924-38),  and  Robert  D.  W.  Connor, 
first  U.  S.  Archivist  (1934-  )•  Josephus  Daniels,  wartime  Secretary  of 
the  Navy  and  Ambassador  to  Mexico  (1933-  ),  lived  in  Wilson  as  a 
boy;  his  mother  was  postmistress  of  the  town  for  years. 

Wilson  is  at  the  junction  with  State  58  (see  tour  6)  and  US  264  (see 

TOUR  2j). 


Section  b.  WILSON  to  SOUTH  CAROLINA  LINE;  132  m.  US  301 

Between  Wilson  and  the  South  Carolina  Line  US  301  swings  along  the 
edge  of  the  fertile  Piedmont  Plateau.  Forests  of  longleaf  and  shortleaf  pine 
are  sprinkled  with  oak,  maple,  ash,  and  gum.  Shallow  streams  have  worn 
sloping  ravines  in  many  places. 

At  5  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  117  (see  tour  4). 

SELMA,  26  m.  (214  alt.,  1,857  P°P-)»  ^s  an  industrial  town  with  two 
textile  mills.  The  section  north  of  the  Southern  Ry.  tracks  is  known  as 
OLD  MR.  ATKINSON'S  DEER  PARK;  here  a  spring  attracted  deer 
before  the  town  was  established.  Near  Mitchiner's  Station,  the  early  name 
of  the  village,  a  detachment  of  Gen.  Joseph  E.  Johnston's  Confederates, 
retreating  from  Bentonville  in  March  1865  (see  tour  5),  fought  a  rearguard 
action. 

At  28  m.  is  the  northern  junction  with  US  70  (see  tour  28). 

SMITHFIELD,  31  m.  (140  alt.,  2,543  P°P-)>  seat  °f  Johnston  County, 
is  a  tobacco-market  town  on  a  bluff  above  the  Neuse  River.  The  town's  most 
cherished  tradition  is  that  in  1789  it  missed  becoming  the  capital  of  North 
Carolina  by  only  one  vote.  The  assembly  in  1746  created  the  county  and 
named  it  for  Gabriel  Johnston,  Governor  under  the  Crown  (1734-52),  and 
also  set  up  St.  Patrick's  Parish  of  the  Church  of  England,  coextensive  with 
the  county.  Founded  in  1770,  Smithfield  was  named  for  Col.  John  Smith 
(1687- 1 777),  an  early  settler  from  Virginia  who  was  a  delegate  to  the  Halifax 
convention  and  who  owned  the  land  on  which  the  town  was  built.  In  Co- 
lonial days  the  town  was  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Neuse. 

Gov.  William  Tryon,  taking  militia  to  quell  the  Regulators  in  May  1771 


tour  3  323 

(see  tour  25),  stopped  at  Smithfield  to  augment  his  force  with  a  detach- 
ment of  Johnstonians,  but  liberty  meetings  condemning  British  tyranny  were 
held  in  1774.  The  general  assembly  convened  at  Smithfield  on  May  3,  1779. 
In  April  1781,  Cornwallis  and  his  army,  going  from  Wilmington  to  York- 
town,  passed  through  the  town. 

The  Johnston  County  Courthouse  (1921)  is  a  three-story  granite  and 
limestone  structure  of  neoclassic  design.  The  main  facade  is  adorned  with 
Roman  Doric  columns  and  pilasters,  forming  an  entrance  loggia.  On  the 
green  is  a  statue  of  a  soldier  dedicated  to  the  citizens  of  Johnston  County  who 
died  in  the  World  War,  and  a  fountain  to  veterans  of  the  same  conflict.  The 
county's  first  courthouse  (1747)  was  at  Clayton  (see  tour  28). 

Smithfield  is  at  the  southern  junction  with  US  70  (see  tour  28). 

The  Smithfield  Art  Pottery  (open),  32  m.,  is  operated  by  a  craftsman 
whose  family  have  been  potters  for  four  generations. 

At  HOLTS  LAKE,  35  m.,  a  recreation  center  (fishing,  bathing,  boating), 
is  the  junction  with  US  701  (see  tour  5). 

DUNN,  53  m.  (214  alt.,  4,558  pop.),  is  the  marketing  center  of  a  farm- 
ing area  where,  it  is  claimed,  there  has  never  been  a  crop  failure.  The  town 
was  founded  by  descendants  of  early  English  and  Scotch  settlers. 

Dunn  is  at  the  Junction  with  US  421  (see  tour  2g). 

At  61  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  FALCON,  2.7  m.  (279  pop.),  a  settlement  and  gathering  place 
of  the  Pentecostal  Holiness  Church,  which  maintains  an  orphanage  and  school  and 
conducts  annual  camp  meetings  in  August.  The  work  is  interdenominational. 

At  64  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  marked  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  0.6  m.  to  the  junction  with  another  dirt  road;  L.  0.6  m.  on  the  dirt 
road  to  Old  Bluff  (Bluff  Creek)  Church  {f(ey  available  at  last  house  before 
reaching  church),  named  for  a  high  point  of  land  on  which  it  stands.  Built  in  the  1840's, 
the  well-preserved,  white  weatherboarded  structure,  with  pedimented  gable  ends  and 
recessed  entrance  loggia,  is  used  for  services  only  once  a  year  (4th  Sunday  in  Sept.).  The 
interior  has  galleries  on  three  sides.  Near  the  church  is  a  monument  to  its  founder, 
the  Rev.  James  Campbell,  a  Scottish  missionary  sent  from  Philadelphia  in  1758,  who  in 
three  years  organized  Old  Bluff,  Barbecue,  and  Long  Street  Churches  {see  tour  3A). 

FAYETTEVILLE,  78  m.  (107  alt.,  13,049  pop.)  (see  fayetteville). 

Points  of  Interest:  Market  House,  First  Presbyterian  Church,  Cool  Spring,  Site  of  Cross 
Creek,  Site  of  Flora  Macdonald's  House,  and  others. 

Fayetteville  is  at  the  junction  with  US  15A  (see  tour  9)  and  State  24  (see 
tour  3A). 

Left  from  Fayetteville  on  paved  State  28  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road,  28  m. ;  L. 
0.3  m.  on  the  dirt  road  to  the  Purdy  House  {private),  a  two-story  brick  mansion  with 
porches  across  the  front  and  rear  at  both  floor  levels.  The  porches  and  kitchen  have 
been  added  to  the  original  structure.  It  was  erected  in  1808  by  James  S.  Purdy  on  land 
granted  the  Purdy  family  by  George  III  before  the  Revolution.  The  brick  of  the  16-inch 


324  TOURS 

walls  is  laid  in  Flemish  bond.  Notable  features  of  the  interior  are  a  fireplace  with  Ionic 
detail,  wainscot  of  beveled  paneling,  and  a  fairly  ornate  cornice  in  the  right-hand  room. 

Between  Fayetteville  and  the  South  Carolina  Line  US  301  penetrates  part 
of  the  cotton  kingdom  where  "clay  hills  combine  with  the  beaming  sun,  the 
Negro,  the  landless  white,  and  the  mule  to  supply  the  world's  demand  for 
a  cheap  fabric."  Spring  plowing  turns  up  dull  red  soil,  sometimes  making 
the  earth  seem  cloud-shadowed  even  on  bright  days.  Grown  men  do  the 
plowing,  but  at  chopping  time  in  midsummer  women  and  children,  black 
and  white,  ply  their  hoes.  Cotton-picking  time  in  the  autumn  brings  out 
entire  families. 

LUMBERTON,  111  m.  (143  alt.,  4,140  pop.),  seat  of  Robeson  County, 
is  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Lumber  (Lumbee)  River.  Here  are  textile  mills, 
a  fertilizer  factory,  and  five  tobacco  warehouses;  the  town  is  also  a  shipping 
point  for  truck  produce.  Farmers'  cooperatives  are  represented  in  stores, 
groups,  and  a  curb  market. 

Robeson  County  was  formed  in  1787.  Col.  Thomas  Robeson,  Whig  hero 
of  the  Battle  of  Elizabethtown  (see  tour  5)  and  later  State  senator,  opposed 
the  creating  of  a  new  unit  from  his  own  county  of  Bladen  until  it  was  sug- 
gested that  the  new  county  be  given  his  name.  Robeson  County  was  the  first 
in  the  State  to  prohibit  the  sale  of  alcoholic  beverages  (1886).  The  Robeson 
County  Courthouse  (1908)  is  the  fourth  to  serve  the  county.  It  has  a  com- 
plete series  of  will  and  deed  books  beginning  with  1787;  the  first  courthouse 
was  built  in  1788.  The  present  structure,  of  Italian  Renaissance  design,  has 
walls  of  buff  brick  set  in  yellow  mortar  with  heavy  quoins  at  the  corners. 
It  is  three  stories  in  height  with  a  colonnaded  and  domed  cupola. 

Early  inhabitants  of  this  section  were  Croatan  Indians  who,  some  con- 
tend, are  descended  from  survivors  of  Raleigh's  Lost  Colony  (see  tour  iA). 
Others  maintain  that  they  are  descended  from  Portuguese  traders  who  came 
here  from  Florida  (see  tour  31a).  The  first  white  settlers  (1725),  Scottish 
Highlanders,  chose  the  eastern  and  western  parts  of  the  county;  English  and 
a  few  French  settled  the  southern  portion. 

By  the  latter  half  of  the  18th  century  Lumberton  had  become  a  trading 
center  for  timber  and  naval  stores.  Rafts  of  pine  logs  on  which  were  piled 
other  pine  products  such  as  tar,  pitch,  turpentine,  and  resin,  were  floated 
down  the  Lumber  River  to  Georgetown,  S.  C.  When  the  timber  was  depleted, 
Robeson  County  residents  turned  to  farming  and  cattle  raising. 

During  the  Revolutionary  War  the  section  seethed  with  conflict  between 
Whig  and  Tory  factions;  the  royalists  usually  emerged  victorious. 

Lumberton  is  at  the  junction  with  US  74  (see  tour  31a). 

ROWLAND,  129  m.  (151  alt.,  915  pop.),  named  for  a  pioneer  family  of 
the  section,  was  once  only  a  cotton  market,  but  has  become  the  marketing 
center  of  a  prosperous  agricultural  region  producing  corn,  grain,  and  melons. 

Left  of  US  301  at  its  junction  with  State  71  in  Rowland  is  a  marker 
pointing  out  the  Grave  of  Dr.  James  Robert  Adair  in  the  family  grave- 
yard. Dr.  Adair  was  a  surgeon  on  the  staff  of  King  George  III,  and  later 


TOUR    3  325 

surgeon  in  Gen.  Francis  Marion's  army  during  the  Revolution.  He  spent 
nearly  40  years  among  the  Indians,  chiefly  the  Chickasaw,  and  published  in 
1775  the  History  of  the  Indian  Tribes,  a  book  expounding  his  theory  that 
the  Indians  are  of  Semitic  origin,  but  valued  for  its  intimate  account  of  the 
habits  and  customs  of  the  tribes.  He  was  able  to  win  the  allegiance  of  the 
Indians  from  the  French  and  Spanish  to  the  English.  The  song,  Robin  Adair, 
written  by  Lady  Caroline  Keppel,  resulted  in  his  return  to  England  and  their 
marriage. 

Right  from  Rowland  on  paved  US  501  to  Ashpole  Presbyterian  Church,  1.5  m., 
successor  to  a  log  church  built  here  in  1796.  The  present  building,  third  on  the  site, 
was  partly  completed  during  the  War  between  the  States.  Simple  lines  are  accentuated 
by  a  small  belfry  over  the  front  entrance.  The  gallery,  whose  east  side  was  reserved 
for  slaves,  remains  unchanged.  Timbers  are  hand-hewn,  mortised  with  wooden  pegs. 
Weatherboarding,  flooring,  and  seats  are  hand-planed  and  put  together  with  hand-made 
nails.  The  origin  of  the  name  is  accredited  to  John  Cade,  one  of  the  early  settlers,  who 
built  bridges  of  ash  poles  across  the  millrace  just  below  his  dam. 

Once  the  church  gave  each  member  in  good  standing  a  small  metal  disc  or  token, 
which  allowed  them  to  partake  of  communion.  The  principal  event  of  the  year  was  the 
Spring  Sacrament,  which  persists  as  Homecoming  Day  (3rd  Sunday  in  May). 

Ashpole  Cemetery,  in  use  for  more  than  150  years,  is  on  the  eastern  side  of 
Mitchells  Creek,  near  the  site  of  the  old  Adair  home. 

At  132  m.  US  301  crosses  the  South  Carolina  Line,  26  miles  north  of 
Florence,  S.  C.  {see  s.  c.  tour  24). 


TOUR 


Fayette ville — Fort  Bragg — Manchester — Spout  Springs;  State  24.  23  m. 

The  Atlantic  Coast  Line  R.R.  parallels  the  entire  route;  Cape  Fear  R.R.  serves  Fort  Bragg 
Military  Reservation.  Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

The  route  between  Fayetteville  and  Spout  Springs  runs  through  sandy  hills 
forested  with  pine  and  scrub  oak. 

State  24  branches  northwest  from  US  301  {see  tour  j)  in  FAYETTE- 
VILLE, 0  m.  {see  fayetteville). 

At  4  m.,  in  a  grove,  is  the  Nott  House  {private),  an  ante-bellum  planta- 
tion house  sheathed  with  wide  clapboards  and  having  broad,  double  gal- 
leries at  the  front  and  rear.  Hand-made  iron  hinges  and  fasteners  are  attached 
to  solid  paneled  doors  and  shutters. 

FORT  BRAGG,  U.  S.  MILITARY  RESERVATION  {open),  10  m.  {for 
information  concerning  artillery  practice  and  directions  to  Long  Street 
Church  inquire  at  headquarters),  is  a  field  artillery  training  center  covering 
120,000  acres  in  Cumberland  and  Hoke  Counties,  the  largest  military  reser- 
vation in  the  United  States.  The  post  was  established  in  1918  and  named  for 
Gen.  Braxton  Bragg,  Confederate  corps  commander  {see  tour  24). 

Gen.  Francis  Marion,  the  Swamp  Fox,  made  this  site  his  headquarters 
while  he  harassed  British  forces.  CornwalliSj  after  the  Battle  of  Guilford 
Courthouse  {see  tour  /j),  maintained  headquarters  here. 

Fort  Bragg  has  a  complete  system  of  municipal  and  recreational  facilities, 
a  chapel,  and  a  school  for  children;  the  buildings  are  modern,  built  of  brick 
and  stucco.  The  post  organization  is  made  up  of  four  regiments  of  field 
artillery  with  latest  equipment.  A  field  artillery  board  tests  experimental 
materiel  on  the  firing  range.  Pope  Field,  the  Air  Corps  station,  is  garrisoned 
by  Flight  C,  16th  Observation  Squadron,  and  the  Second  Balloon  Squadron. 
The  landing  field  has  a  mile-long  runway. 

In  summer  the  Reserve  Officers  Training  Corps  comes  to  Fort  Bragg  for 
training,  units  of  the  North  Carolina  National  Guard  encamp  for  two  weeks, 
and  the  Citizens  Military  Training  Camp  is  conducted.  Since  the  establish- 
ment of  the  Civilian  Conservation  Corps  in  1932,  Fort  Bragg  has  been  head- 
quarters of  District  A. 

Long  Street  Church,  organized  in  1758,  is  on  the  old  Yadkin  Rd.  within 
the  reservation.  Highland  Scots  settled  the  region  as  early  as  1736.  The  Rev. 
Hugh  McAden,  a  Presbyterian  missionary,  first  held  services  at  the  home 
of  Alexander  McKay  in  1756.  Two  years  later  Long  Street,  Old  Bluff,  and 

326 


TOUR     3  A  327 

Barbecue  Churches  were  organized,  with  the  Rev.  James  Campbell,  a  native 
of  Argyllshire,  as  first  pastor.  For  137  years  services  were  held  continuously 
in  Long  Street  Church,  whose  name  is  believed  to  refer  to  the  settlements 
lining  the  road  for  a  mile  or  more.  The  simple  hip-roof  structure  was  built 
(1845-47)  of  hand-dressed  longleaf  pine  timbers.  The  interior  is  entered 
through  two  front  doors  between  which  is  the  pulpit,  set  high  up  against  the 
wall. 

Near  Long  Street  Church  is  the  Site  of  the  Battle  of  Monroes  Cross- 
roads (Mar.  10,  1865).  Maj.  Gen.  Judson  Kilpatrick  commanded  the  Federals 
and  Lt.  Gen.  Wade  Hampton  the  Confederate  forces.  Upon  the  arrival  of 
Federal  reinforcements  the  Confederates  retreated. 

Beyond  the  rock  wall  of  the  church  cemetery  a  stone  marks  the  graves  of 
30  unidentified  men  who  fell  in  the  battle.  Highlanders  and  their  descendants 
are  also  buried  here. 

In  MANCHESTER,  13  m.  (190  alt.,  49  pop.),  once  a  turpentine  shipping 
point  on  Lower  Little  River,  is  the  Site  of  Holly  Hill,  now  occupied  by  a 
story-and-a-half  house.  It  was  the  Murchison  family  seat  from  the  days  when 
Kenneth  Murchison,  a  Revolutionary  soldier,  erected  his  home  in  a  mag- 
nificent grove  of  hollies. 

At  17.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  OVERHILLS  (197  alt.,  200  pop.),  1.2  m.,  the  Percy  Rockefeller 
Estate,  which  at  one  time  covered  40,000  acres.  The  rambling  red  brick  mansion  with 
tile  roof  and  iron  balcony  was  erected  in  1928.  There  is  a  smaller,  white-painted  brick 
house,  and  a  golf  course. 

Visible  on  either  side  of  the  highway  at  22  m.  is  a  rare  variety  of  pyxie 
plant,  the  flowering  moss  (Pyxidanthera  breuijolia) .  Apparently  a  relic  of 
an  almost  extinct  family,  it  survives  in  compact  mats,  three  to  five  feet  wide, 
of  tiny  white  wheel-shaped  flowers,  closely  overlapped  on  slender,  branching 
stems.  It  was  discovered  in  1928  by  Dr.  B.  W.  Wells,  head  of  the  Botany 
Department  of  State  College,  Raleigh,  and  is  believed  to  exist  only  within  a 
6-mile  area  around  SPOUT  SPRINGS,  23  m.  (333  alt.,  106  pop.). 


TOUR       4 


Junction  with  US  301 — Goldsboro — Warsaw — Junction  with  US  421;  US 
117.  101  m. 

Atlantic    Coast   Line    R.R.    parallels    route. 

Roadbed   paved   throughout. 

Hotels  in  towns;  tourist  homes  and  camps  along  the  highway. 

US  117  crosses  eastern  North  Carolina  flat  lands  where  shadowy  cypress 
swamps  are  almost  as  common  as  tobacco  fields.  Cotton  farms  are  numerous 
though  truck  is  also  produced  in  large  quantities. 

US  117  branches  south  from  its  junction  with  US  301,  0  m.  (see  tour  3), 
5  miles  south  of  Wilson. 

At  2.1  m.  the  highway  spans  Black  Creek,  a  mile  north  of  where  Corn- 
wallis  crossed  during  his  retreat  from  Wilmington  in  1781  over  Old  Fort 
Road,  now  called  Cornwallis  Trail. 

FREMONT,  9  m.  (152  alt.,  1,316  pop.),  was  the  birthplace  of  Charles 
Brantley  Aycock  (1859-1912),  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1901-5),  and  a 
champion  of  public  education. 

GOLDSBORO,  21  m.  (in  alt.,  14,985  pop.),  seat  of  Wayne  County,  is 
a  manufacturing  and  agricultural  town  on  the  Neuse  River  in  the  approxi- 
mate center  of  eastern  North  Carolina's  bright-leaf  tobacco  belt.  Miniature 
firs,  pines,  and  other  shrubs  grow  in  the  midstreet  parks  of  the  residential 
boulevards.  Tobacco  warehouses  and  30  manufacturing  enterprises  give  the 
town  a  flourishing  trade.  The  Wayne  County  Fair  is  an  annual  (Oct.)  event 
here. 

Wayne  County,  established  in  1779  from  part  of  Dobbs,  and  named  for 
"Mad  Anthony"  Wayne,  Revolutionary  hero,  has  a  gently  rolling  surface 
suitable  to  diversified  farming.  From  here  are  shipped  Irish  potatoes,  cucum- 
bers, string  beans,  strawberries,  and  watermelons. 

Goldsboro,  formerly  Goldsborough,  founded  soon  after  completion  in  1840 
of  the  Wilmington  &  Raleigh  R.R.,  now  part  of  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line, 
was  named  for  a  civil  engineer  who  assisted  in  the  rail  line  survey.  Goldsboro 
and  Waynesboro  were  settled  by  English  immigrants  from  whom  most  of 
the  present  white  inhabitants  are  descended.  When  the  county  seat  was 
moved  from  Waynesboro  in  1847  to  the  new  railroad  village,  many  houses 
and  stores  were  torn  down  and  rebuilt  at  Goldsboro.  In  1865  a  part  of  Sher- 
man's troops  were  concentrated  here. 

Dr.  Edwin  A.  Alderman,  president  of  the  University  of  North  Carolina 

328 


TOUR    4  329 

(1896-1900),  of  Tulane  University  (1900-1904),  and  of  the  University  of 
Virginia  (1904-31),  was  a  resident  of  this  town. 

The  Wayne  County  Courthouse  occupies  the  original  courthouse  site. 
A  whipping  post  stood  on  the  lawn  until  after  the  War  between  the  States. 

The  City  Hall  is  a  light  brick  structure  of  two  stories  with  Ionic  portico, 
a  pedimented,  Italian  Baroque  cupola,  and  statues  of  Liberty  and  Justice 
surmounting  low  square  towers  at  the  front  corners.  The  Memorial  Com- 
munity Building  (1924),  N.  William  and  E.  Walnut  Sts.,  whose  construc- 
tion was  financed  by  popular  subscription,  is  headquarters  of  various  civic 
organizations  and  has  a  gymnasium.  The  I.O.O.F.  Childrens  Home,  E. 
Ashe  and  N.  Herman  Sts.,  occupies  a  half-dozen  brick  buildings  surround- 
ing a  large  playground  with  recreational  facilities. 

The  Colonel  Washington  Home,  215  SW.  Center  St.,  in  an  oak  grove, 
was  a  headquarters  for  Gen.  W.  T.  Sherman  in  1865.  The  two-story  frame 
structure  with  its  double-gallery  porch  is  boarded  up  and  in  a  state  of  dis- 
repair. The  Slocumb  House  {private),  Ashe  and  Jackson  Sts.,  a  two-story 
frame  building  with  bracketed  cornice,  peaked  dormer,  and  broad  front 
porch  supported  by  modified  Ionic  columns  arranged  in  pairs,  was  head- 
quarters for  General  Logan  of  the  Union  Army. 

The  Borden  House  {private),  S.  George  St.  facing  Chestnut  St.,  was 
headquarters  for  General  Schofield.  This  remodeled  two-story  brick  resi- 
dence has  an  unusually  heavy  cornice  and  a  small  arched  portico. 

In  the  Willow  Dale  Cemetery,  Elm  St.,  is  a  Confederate  Monument 
with  the  statue  of  a  southern  soldier  on  a  granite  base.  It  was  erected  in 
1883  from  proceeds  of  a  bazar  to  which  contributions  were  made  by  north- 
ern business  firms. 

Goldsboro  is  at  the  junction  with  US  70  {see  tour  28). 

At  23  m.  on  the  northern  bank  of  Neuse  River  is  the  Site  of  Waynes- 
boro, former  seat  of  Wayne  County  (1782- 1847),  first  known  as  the  Court 
House.  Dr.  Andrew  Bass,  delegate  to  the  Provincial  Congress  of  1775  and 
to  the  Hillsboro  convention  of  1788,  who  owned  the  land  on  which  Waynes- 
boro stood,  is  believed  to  have  been  its  founder.  Waynesboro  disappeared 
after  removal  of  the  seat  to  Goldsboro. 

At  23.1  m.  the  route  crosses  the  muddy  Neuse  River.  Along  these  shores, 
on  Dec.  14,  1862,  General  Evans  repulsed  Federal  troops  under  General 
Foster,  who  had  won  a  skirmish  two  days  earlier  at  Kinston. 

At  25  m.,  embedded  in  the  cement  pavement  of  the  highway,  is  a  Tomb- 
stone (R)  broken  during  the  War  between  the  States  by  the  wheels  of  a 
gun  carriage.  Inscribed  "Gone  But  Not  Forgotten,"  it  marks  the  grave  of  a 
circus  clown  who  died  near  here  in  the  1840's. 

At  31  m.  is  a  marker  indicating  the  former  Grave  of  Ezekiel  and  Mary 
Slocumb,  Revolutionary  figures  of  the  Battle  of  Moores  Creek  Bridge,  who 
were  buried  on  the  Slocumb  farm  here  until  they  were  moved  to  Moores 
Creek  Battlefield  {see  tour  2g).  Lieutenant  Slocumb  made  a  leap  on  horse- 


330  TOURS 

back  over  a  wide  ditch  and  high  wall  on  this  farm  to  escape  British  soldiers. 
Mrs.  Slocumb,  left  at  home  with  an  infant  when  her  husband  departed  for 
Moores  Creek,  had  a  dream  in  which  she  beheld  her  husband  lying  mortally 
wounded.  She  saddled  a  mare  and  rode  75  miles  until  she  heard  the  sound  of 
the  cannon.  Quickening  her  pace,  she  arrived  at  a  clump  of  woods.  ". .  . .  Just 
then  I  looked  up,  and  my  husband,  as  bloody  as  a  butcher  and  as  muddy  as  a 
ditcher,  stood  before  me."  She  spent  the  remainder  of  the  day  succoring  the 
wounded  on  the  battlefield. 

MOUNT  OLIVE,  35  m.  (165  alt.,  2,685  P°P-)>  1S  m  a  farming  area  that 
produces  bright-leaf  tobacco,  cotton,  vegetables,  berries,  and  melons.  The 
town  is  the  State's  largest  bean  market,  handling  about  250,000  baskets 
annually.  Mount  Olive  was  founded  upon  the  advent  of  the  railroad  in 
1839-40.  Its  first  industrial  plant  was  a  turpentine  still.  Confederate  troops 
were  encamped  here  for  a  few  days  in  March  1865,  prior  to  the  Battle  of  Ben- 
tonville  (see  tour  5).  A  farm  near  Mount  Olive  was  the  birthplace  of  Curtis 
H.  Brogden,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1874-76),  father  of  Willis  }. 
Brogden,  Associate  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  North  Carolina 
(1926-35). 

FAISON,  42  m.  (166  alt.,  589  pop.),  is  one  of  the  largest  cucumber  mar- 
kets in  the  world.  A  local  pickle  plant  (open;  apply  at  office)  annually  uses 
about  70,000  bushels  of  cucumbers  besides  cauliflower,  onions,  and  sweet 
peppers.  Strawberries  and  produce  are  shipped. 

The  Faison  Home  (private)  was  built  prior  to  1785,  as  the  residence  of 
Henry  Faison,  first  settler  and  founder  of  the  town.  The  white  frame  house 
with  green  blinds  has  lost  its  early  character  through  remodeling.  In  the 
Town  Cemetery  are  old  gravestones  and  ground-level  vaults. 

Right  from  Faison  on  State  403  to  the  Williams  Home,  0.3  m.,  a  square  frame  two- 
story  sttucture  erected  in  1853.  A  six-column  portico  rises  to  the  eaves,  and  there  are 
two  one-story  wings.  The  fine  proportions  are  said  to  be  the  result  of  the  influence 
of  an  aunt  who  was  deeply  interested  in  Ruskin's  writings  on  art.  General  Terry  of  the 
Union  Army  maintained  his  staff  here  in  1865.  In  the  Williams  Art  Gallery  of  Plan- 
tation Life  {open  by  permission)  is  a  collection  of  paintings  by  Mrs.  Marshall  Williams 
(b.  1866),  including  ante-bellum  scenes  and  portraits. 

East  of  Faison  are  level  piney  uplands  penetrated  by  streams  bordered 
with  swamps;  south  and  southeast  are  pocosins  (see  tours  ib  and  28). 

WARSAW,  51  m.  (160  alt.,  1,222  pop.),  is  a  truck  market  center  border- 
ing on  the  cotton  belt. 

Right  from  Warsaw  on  paved  State  24  is  TURKEY,  5  m.  (153  alt.,  213  pop.),  a 
pepper  market.  Each  year  in  June  and  July  farmers  and  traders  bring  in  great  loads  of 
bell  peppers,  hot  peppers,  and  the  tiny  bird's-eye  variety  which  rivals  the  output  of 
Mexico.  Up  to  12,000  baskets  are  sold  daily  during  the  season.  Inhabitants  of  Turkey  pay 
no  city  property  taxes;  municipal  funds  are  provided  by  license  taxes,  fines,  and  other  fees. 

KENANSVILLE,  59  m.  (127  alt.,  450  pop.),  seat  of  Duplin  County, 
was  named  for  the  family  of  Col.  James  Kenan  (d.  1810),  who  in  1765  led 
a  force  of  volunteers  from  Kenansville  to  Brunswick  (see  tour  iC)  to  op- 
pose enforcement  of  the  Stamp  Act.  He  served  as  county  sheriff,  trustee  of 


TOUR    4  331 

the  University  of  North  Carolina,  councilor  of  State,  and  for  many  years  was 
in  the  general  assembly. 

Among  documents  in  the  Duplin  County  Courthouse  is  a  record  of  the 
trial  of  Darby  and  Peter,  two  Negro  slaves  convicted  Mar.  15,  1787,  of  mur- 
dering their  master  with  an  ax.  Darby  was  sentenced  to  be  ". .  .  tied  to  a 
stake  on  the  courthouse  lot  and  there  burned  to  death  and  to  ashes  and  his 

ashes  strewed  upon  the  ground "  Peter,  less  severely  punished  because  of 

his  youth,  was  to  have  "one  half  of  each  of  his  ears  cut  off  and  be  branded 
on  each  cheek  with  the  letter  M,"  and  receive  n  lashes.  Also  in  the  court- 
house is  the  signed  Oath  of  Allegiance  and  Abjuration,  adopted  in  Duplin. 

Grove  Academy  was  conducted  here  in  the  middle  1800's.  Among  its 
students  were  William  R.  King,  Vice  President  of  the  United  States  (1853- 
57),  and  F.  M.  Simmons,  U.  S.  Senator  from  North  Carolina  (1901-31).  A 
school  for  young  women,  known  as  the  Female  Seminary,  was  operated  here 
until  the  1920's.  An  early  philanthropist  was  Alexander  Dickson  (d.  1814), 
who  bequeathed  most  of  his  large  estate  to  the  poor  children  of  his  county. 

The  first  church  built  by  Scotch-Irish  settling  here  about  1736  was  near 
what  is  now  the  old  Rutledge  Cemetery.  The  Golden  Grove  Church,  the 
congregation's  third,  near  the  center  of  town,  is  weatherboarded,  painted 
white,  and  has  a  square  tower  and  pointed  windows. 

In  the  Duplin  County  jail,  in  September  1831,  Dave  Morisy,  a  Negro,  was 
incarcerated  for  fomenting  a  plot  in  which  insurgent  slaves  were  to  murder 
all  the  white  people  between  Kenansville  and  Wilmington,  and  then  to  seize 
Fort  Caswell  at  Smith ville  (Southport).  The  revelation  of  the  plan  caused 
intense  excitement.  Some  15  Negroes  were  arrested,  and  prominent  citizens 
asked  Gov.  Montfort  Stokes  for  militia  to  guard  the  jail.  Dave  confessed, 
implicating  David  Hicks,  a  Negro  preacher.  The  two  were  convicted  and 
publicly  hanged.  Their  heads  were  cut  off  and  placed  on  poles  at  highway 
intersections  and  slaves  were  marched  by  to  gaze  upon  them.  Dave's  head 
was  placed  on  the  Wilmington  Road  (now  US  117),  which  became  known 
as  the  Negro  Head  Road. 

TIN  CITY,  75  m.,  is  a  farm  village. 

Right  from  Tin  City  on  paved  State  41  is  WALLACE  2  m.  (51  alt.,  734  pop.),  market- 
ing center  of  a  large  strawberry-raising  section.  An  auctioneer  conducts  the  sale  of  ber- 
ries in  a  shed,  open  on  all  sides.  An  annual  Strawberry  Festival  is  held  early  in  June.  The 
time  was  selected,  according  to  an  auctioneer,  because  "the  growers  won't  have  time  to 
count  their  money  until  the  market  closes." 


At  77  m.  is  the  junction  with  graded  State  401. 


Right  on  this  road  is  WILLARD,  1  m.  (50  alt.,  100  pop.),  and  the  North  Carolina. 
Coastal  Experiment  Station,  conducted  by  the  State  in  cooperation  with  the  Federal 
Government.  Here  experiments  are  being  carried  on  to  produce  a  variety  of  scuppernong 
grape  that  will  bear  in  clusters,  thus  facilitating  transportation.  The  scuppernong,  a  mem- 
ber of  the  muscadine  family,  is  a  white  grape  of  delicious  flavor,  probably  the  oldest 
cultivated  native  American  variety.  It  is  common  in  the  Cape  Fear  River  section,  originat- 
ing, it  is  believed,  along  the  banks  of  the  Scuppernong  River  in  Tyrrell  County  (see 
tour  26a). 

A  field  day  and  farmers'  picnic,  held  annually  since  191 7  (2nd  Thurs.  Sept.)  at  the 
station,  attracts  thousands  of  farmers  and  their  friends.  For  10  cents  a  person  may  enter 


332  TOURS 

the  vineyard  and  eat  all  the  grapes  he  wishes.  On  the  following  day  a  similar  gathering 
of  Negro  farmers  is  held. 

Adjoining  the  experiment  station  on  the  west  is  Penderlea  Farms,  a  project  inaugu- 
rated by  the  Division  of  Subsistence  Homesteads  and  managed  (1939)  by  the  Farm 
Security  Administration.  It  contains  192  farmstead  units  of  about  20  acres;  each  has  a 
one-story  frame  house,  a  barn,  a  pigpen,  a  poultry  house,  and  a  corncrib.  All  the  houses 
have  complete  bathrooms,  and  are  equipped  with  electricity  and  water  under  pressure. 
The  cost  of  the  complete  farm  units,  $5,750,  has  been  prorated  so  that  their  occupants 
can  acquire  them  with  payments  extending  over  a  period  of  40  years.  Some  of  the  families 
selected  have  been  removed  from  submarginal  land  taken  out  of  cultivation  by  the  Gov- 
ernment, others  were  promising  but  impoverished  tenant  farmers.  They  raise  as  much  of 
their  subsistence  as  possible  and  are  given  advice  on  farming  and  the  preservation  of  their 
foodstuffs  by  agents  of  the  Farm  Security  Administration.  The  project  contains  approxi- 
mately 10,500  acres,  which  includes  a  community  pasture,  a  timber  lot,  a  playground,  and 
an  athletic  field.  The  schoolhouse  serves  also  as  a  community  building;  tractors  and  other 
heavy  equipment  are  owned  by  the  project. 

At  85  m.  in  the  Graveyard  of  Old  Hopewell  Presbyterian  Church 
is  the  Grave  of  Hinton  James,  who,  after  walking  170  miles  to  Chapel 
Hill,  became,  on  Feb.  12,  1795,  the  first  student  to  matriculate  at  the 
University  of  North  Carolina.  He  studied  engineering  and  later  did  much 
to  improve  the  channels  in  the  Cape  Fear  River. 

BIG  SAVANNAH,  87  m.,  is  a  railroad  station  in  an  area  noted  for  the 
variety  of  its  wild  flowers  and  shrubs.  Here  grow  the  wild  orchid,  and 
several  insectivorous  plants  including  the  bladderwort,  the  pitcherplant,  and 
the  rare  Venus's-flytrap,  which  is  found  only  near  the  Carolinas'  coast.  This, 
described  by  Darwin  as  "the  most  wonderful  little  plant  in  the  world," 
grows  to  a  height  of  from  4  to  12  inches  and  produces  a  white  showy  flower 
in  early  May.  In  a  group  of  three  near  the  center  of  each  half  of  the  leaf 
are  triggers  which,  when  touched,  cause  the  leaf  to  close  like  a  trap.  Insects 
thus  caught  are  digested  by  enzymatic  juices  secreted  by  the  plant. 

In  the  swamps  the  prevailing  trees  are  the  bald  cypress  and  juniper  (white 
cedar),  usually  festooned  with  Spanish  or  gray  moss,  which  is  not  moss 
nor  a  parasite  but  is  related  to  the  pineapple  and  the  aerial  orchids  of  the 
tropics. 

BURGAW,  89  m.  (49  alt.,  1,209  pop.),  is  the  seat  of  Pender  County. 
The  county  was  formed  in  1875  and  named  for  William  Dorsey  Pender 
(1834-63),  youngest  major  general  of  the  Confederacy.  The  county  claims 
the  greatest  diversification  of  crops  in  the  State  but  strawberries  are  the 
main  product. 

Left  from  Burgaw  on  sand-clay  State  53  to  State-owned  HOLLY  SHELTER  GAME 
REFUGE,  15  m.  About  15,000  of  its  35,000  acres  have  been  opened  as  public  hunting 
grounds  where  bear,  deer,  quail,  and  waterfowl  are  taken  in  season  (see  general  infor- 
mation). The  refuge  is  in  Holly  Shelter  Pocosin,  which  covers  more  than  100  square 
miles  in  the  eastern  central  section  of  Pender  County. 

ST.  FIELENA,  91  m.  (55  alt.),  is  the  first  of  several  agricultural  colonies 
developed  for  immigrants  by  Hugh  MacRae,  Wilmington  real  estate  oper- 
ator. Land  acquired  by  the  development  company  was  cut  into  small  farms 
of  10  to  30  acres.  These  were  improved,  equipped,  and  sold  to  the  colonists 
on  easv  terms. 


tour  4  333 

The  first  group  at  St.  Helena  was  composed  of  seven  families  from 
northern  Italy,  thrifty,  industrious,  and  experienced  grape  growers.  Forage 
crops  are  grown  in  summer  and  cover  crops  in  winter  to  keep  the  land 
constantly  in  productivity.  Scientific  methods  of  agriculture  are  followed. 

Settled  on  MacRae's  other  developments  are:  Hollanders  at  Van  Eden, 
in  Pender  County;  Germans  at  New  Berlin,  in  Columbus  County;  Poles 
and  Ruthenians  at  Marathon,  and  a  mixed  group,  principally  Dutch,  at  Castle 
Hayne   (see  tour  29). 

At  101  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  421  (see  tour  29). 


TOUR 


Junction  with  US  301 — Clinton — Whiteville — (Conway,  S.  C);  US  701. 
Junction  with  US  301 — South  Carolina  Line,  111  m. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  towns;  summer  hotels  at  White  Lake;  tourist  homes  and  camps  along  the  high- 
way. 

Between  the  junction  with  US  301  and  the  South  Carolina  Line,  US  701 
crosses  generally  level  countryside  having  many  lakes,  and  is  bordered  by 
long  stretches  of  pine  forests  and  marshlands  of  luxuriant  growth.  The 
farms  produce  truck  and  berries  except  near  the  South  Carolina  Line  where 
cotton  and  tobacco  are  the  principal  crops. 

US  701  branches  south  from  its  junction  with  US  301,  0  m.  (see  tour  j£), 
at  a  point  4  miles  southwest  of  Smithfield. 

At  12  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  unpaved  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  BENTONVILLE  BATTLEFIELD,  7  m.,  where  the  Confederates 
under  Gen.  Joseph  E.  Johnston  were  defeated,  Mar.  19-21,  1865,  by  Sherman's  army  in 
the  last  major  battle  of  the  War  between  the  States.  Federal  casualties  were  reported  as 
1,646  and  Confederate  losses,  2,606.  Approximately  10  miles  of  Confederate  trenches, 
still  well  preserved,  run  across  the  battleground. 

The  Bentonville  Battle  Monument  (1927),  erected  jointly  by  the  North  Carolina 
Historical  Commission  and  the  United  Daughters  of  the  Confederacy,  stands  in  a  tri- 
angular grassplot.  On  a  half-acre  park,  over  a  mass  grave  of  300  unidentified  Confederates 
killed  at  the  Harper  House,  is  a  stone  pyramid,  erected  in  1934  by  the  Goldsboro  Rifles. 

The  Harper  House,  9  m.,  a  two-story  wooden  structure,  with  its  blacksmith  shop  and 
outbuildings  was  filled  with  Confederate  wounded.  It  bears  bullet  holes  and  other  marks 
■of  battle. 

CLINTON,  33  m.  (158  alt.,  2,712  pop.),  the  seat  of  Sampson  County, 
was  founded  and  laid  off  in  1818  and  named  for  Richard  Clinton,  who 
gave  five  acres  for  the  county  seat.  The  local  industrial  establishments  in- 
clude a  large  lumber  plant.  The  county,  formed  in  1784  from  part  of  Duplin 
and  named  for  Col.  John  Sampson,  is  noted  for  its  large  huckleberries, 
locally  referred  to  as  Sampson  Blues. 

On  the  courthouse  square  is  a  Monument  to  William  Rufus  King,  13th 
Vice  President  of  the  United  States  (1853),  who  was  born  near  here  and 
practiced  law  in  Clinton.  In  the  Daniel  Joyner  House  (1810)  white  women 
and  children  sought  refuge  from  the  threatened  Negro  insurrection  of 
September  1831  (see  tour  4). 

Clinton  is  at  the  northern  junction  with  US  421  (see  tour  29). 

334 


tour  5  335 

Right  from  Clinton  on  paved  State  24,  in  a  farming  section  where  quail  and  small 
game  are  plentiful,  is  ROSEBORO,  12  m.  (137  alt.,  768  pop.).  The  Culbreth  family,  who 
are  said  to  have  furnished  more  ministers  of  the  gospel  than  any  other  family  in  the  State, 
live  here. 

1.  Left  from  Roseboro  on  Butlers  Island  Rd.  across  Big  Swamp,  3  m.  to  the  junction 
with  a  trail;  at  the  west  margin  of  the  swamp  L.  on  this  trail  to  the  end  of  the  floodgate 
dam.  Cross  two  streams  on  the  log  footway  and  follow  path  to  high  land  on  HICKS 
ISLAND  (open),  4.5  m.,  a  primitive  beauty  spot,  thickly  grown  with  shrubs  and  moss- 
hung  trees,  and  brilliant  in  the  spring  and  summer  with  wild  flowers.  This  privately 
owned  1,000-acre  island  is  surrounded  by  the  waters  of  South  River,  Big  Swamp,  and 
Little  Swamp.  The  first  English  trappers  who  came  here  are  said  to  have  found  blue- 
eyed  Indians  who  spoke  a  dialect  similar  to  16th-century  English.  Some  people  believe 
that  these  Indians  were  descendants  of  Raleigh's  Lost  Colony  (see  tour  iA). 

2.  Right  from  Roseboro  on  State  242,  on  Little  Coharie  Creek,  is  the  Site  of  the 
Home  of  Gabriel  Holmes,  2  m.,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1821-24).  At  SALEM  - 
BURG,  6  m.  (318  pop.),  is  the  Duke-endowed  coeducational  Pineland  College,  estab- 
lished in  1914.  It  offers  elementary,  preparatory,  and  junior  college  courses.  A  500-acre 
farm  provides  food  for  175  students,  employment  for  many  of  them,  and  a  crop  surplus 
that  is  marketed. 

At  36  m.  is  the  southern  junction  with  US  421  (see  tour  29). 

GARLAND,  46  m.  (62  alt.,  509  pop.),  on  the  South  River,  was  formerly 
an  important  lumber-market  center  but  is  now  chiefly  a  shipping  point  for 
huckleberries. 

Between  Garland  and  the  South  Carolina  Line  are  numerous  lakes  and 
dry  basins  known  as  bays.  Many  geologists  believe  these  were  formed  by 
the  fall  of  meteors. 

WHITE  LAKE,  62  m.  (89  alt.),  is  a  resort  village. 

1.  Left  from  the  town  on  an  improved  road  to  WHITE  LAKE  (hotels,  cottages,  and 
bathhouses;  good  rod  fishing),  1  m.,  spring-fed  and  surrounded  by  large  areas  of  white 
sand  broken  by  pines  and  turkey  oaks.  The  lake  is  about  1.3  miles  wide,  and  its  water  is 
unusually  clear. 

2.  Left  from  the  village  of  White  Lake  on  unpaved  State  41  to  BLACK  LAKE  (swim- 
ming, boating,  fishing),  6  m.,  about  the  same  size  as  White  Lake. 

At  63.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  sand-clay  State  53. 

Left  on  State  53  to  SINGLETARY  LAKE  (bathing  beach,  boathouses,  picnic  grounds, 
tennis  courts),  6  m.,  a  recreation  center  in  the  35,000-acre  JONES  AND  SALTERS 
LAKES  LAND  UTILIZATION  PROJECT.  The  assembly  hall  and  bunkhouses  are  for 
the  use  of  boys  and  girls  camps.  Within  the  project  the  Government  has  built  highways 
and  truck  trails;  fire  hazards  have  been  reduced  and  a  wildlife  conservation  program 
inaugurated. 

At  68  m.  is  the  junction  with  sand-clay  State  242. 

Right  on  State  242  to  evergreen-bordered  JONES  LAKE,  3  m.,  in  the  Land  Utilization 
Project,  a  recreation  center  for  Negroes. 

US  701  crosses  the  valley  of  the  rushing  Cape  Fear  River  on  a  high  cause- 
way. The  Cape  Fear  has  often  overflowed  its  banks,  causing  much  damage 
to  the  bottom  lands. 


336  TOURS 

ELIZABETHTOWN,  69  m.  (85  alt.,  765  pop.),  seat  of  Bladen  County, 
on  the  western  bank  of  the  Cape  Fear  River,  was  settled  by  Scotch,  English, 
and  Irish  soon  after  the  county  had  been  formed  in  1734,  and  in  1773  was 
named  for  Queen  Elizabeth.  In  front  of  the  community  building  is  a  marker 
commemorating  the  Battle  of  Elizabethtown. 

Old  plantations  along  the  river  have  fallen  into  ruins  although  at  present 
there  are  many  prosperous  farms.  For  several  years  lumbering  was  an 
important  industry  here.  A  peanut-products  factory  is  one  of  the  chief  indus- 
trial plants. 

The  Tory  Hole,  Site  of  the  Battle  of  Elizabethtown,  is  on  Broad  St., 
near  the  center  of  town.  In  1781  the  region  around  Elizabethtown,  Camp- 
bellton,  and  Fayetteville  was  a  Tory  stronghold.  Whigs  were  driven  from 
their  homes  and  their  estates  pillaged.  One  August  night  a  small  band  of 
patriots,  having  decided  to  strike  back,  reached  the  banks  of  the  Cape  Fear 
opposite  Elizabethtown,  which  was  then  held  by  300  Tories  under  Godden 
and  Slingsby.  They  waded  across  and  launched  an  attack.  After  Godden  and 
Slingsby  had  been  mortally  wounded  the  Tories  retreated,  some  taking  refuge 
in  houses,  others  leaping  to  safety  into  a  deep  ravine,  since  called  the  Tory 
Hole. 

At  78.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  graveled  road. 

Left  on  this  road  2.3  m.  to  the  Brown  Marsh  Presbyterian  Church  (R),  a  weather- 
boarded  structure  with  an  entrance  on  the  left  side,  and  another  on  the  gable  end.  The 
building  has  remnants  of  solid  shutters  for  the  windows  of  the  five  bays.  Within  are  rude 
benches  and  a  rear  gallery.  The  building  was  erected  in  1825,  replacing  one  built  in  1787. 
Dr.  Joseph  R.  Wilson,  father  of  Woodrow  Wilson,  occasionally  preached  here.  In  the 
cemetery  are  buried  the  ancestors  of  Anna  Mathilda  McNeill  Whistler,  mother  of  James 
Abbott  McNeill  Whistler,  the  painter. 

CLARKTON,  79  m.  (93  alt.,  458  pop.),  an  agricultural  village,  is  one 
of  the  oldest  tobacco  markets  in  the  State.  There  was  a  Highland  Scotch 
settlement  here  as  early  as  1760. 

In  WHITEVILLE,  92  m.  (66  alt.,  2,203  pop.),  founded  in  1810,  and  the 
seat  of  Columbus  County,  are  several  tobacco  warehouses.  Some  contend  that 
the  name  commemorates  John  White,  associated  with  the  Lost  Colony  (see 
tour  1  A),  but  it  probably  honors  John  B.  White,  member  of  the  general 
assembly  of  1809,  whose  family  deeded  (1809)  the  land  for  the  first  court- 
house. The  county  was  formed  from  Bladen  in  1808.  Woodrow  Wilson  and 
his  father  were  guests  at  the  old  White  house  when  it  was  occupied  by  Col. 
W.  M.  Baldwin.  When  young  Woodrow  was  caught  climbing  a  tree  in  the 
White  yard  on  the  Sabbath,  Presbyterian  wrath  is  said  to  have  broken  the 
Sabbath  calm. 

The  Memory  grape  that  bears  a  large  black  fruit,  was  introduced  here  in 
1868  by  Col.  T.  S.  Memory,  who  discovered  it  growing  among  his  Thomas 
vines. 

Whiteville  is  at  the  junction  with  US  74  (see  tour  31a). 

In  Welsh  Creek  Township,  about  4  miles  northeast  of  Whiteville,  are  sev- 


tour  5  337 

eral  hundred  so-called  Free-issues,  people  of  mixed  Indian,  white,  and 
Negro  blood,  whose  ancestors  were  woodsmen  when  turpentine  was  profit- 
ably produced  in  this  region. 

At  94  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  130  (see  tour  5A). 

Between  94  m.  and  the  South  Carolina  Line,  US  701  crosses  TRUCE 
LAND,  set  apart  in  June  1781  as  a  refuge  for  non-combatants  during  the 
Revolutionary  War  by  an  agreement  between  Colonel  Gainey  and  Gen. 
Francis  Marion.  The  area  was  under  rigid  military  rule.  Toward  the  end  of 
the  war  the  section  became  a  refuge  for  robbers  and  renegades. 

TABOR  CITY,  110  m.  (1,165  pop.),  is  a  market  for  tobacco  and  other 
agricultural  products.  From  50  to  75  thousand  hampers  of  beans  are  sold 
here  annually. 

At  111  m.  the  highway  crosses  the  South  Carolina  Line,  28  miles  north 
of  Conway,  S.  C.  (see  s.c.  tour  24). 


TOUR 


Junction  with  US  701 — Old  Dock — Crusoe  Island;  State  130,  county  road. 
18  m. 

Paved  highway  to  Old  Dock. 

State  130  branches  southeast  from  its  junction  with  US  701,  0  m.  (see 
tour  5)  2  miles  south  of  Whiteville,  and  runs  through  lowland  swamps  and 
pocosins. 

OLD  DOCK,  15  m.  (35  pop.),  a  waning  farm  village,  in  ante-bellum 
days  was  an  important  shipping  point  for  naval  stores;  its  name  refers  to 
wharfs  that  once  stood  along  the  Waccamaw  River. 

Left  from  Old  Dock  on  a  dirt  road  through  Green  Swamp  to  CRUSOE 
ISLAND,  18  m.,  a  community  isolated  for  several  generations.  Not  prop- 
erly an  island,  this  point  is  an  elevated  knoll  in  country  consisting  of 
meandering  streams  of  dark  water  and  tangled  swamps  where  large  herds 
of  deer  survive  and  bears  often  overrun  the  section,  preying  upon  livestock. 
Almost  every  home  has  a  kennel  of  bear  hounds. 

The  country  around  the  Green  Swamp  and  Lake  Waccamaw  was  first 
granted  to  Patrick  Henry.  It  is  said  that  later  owners,  not  interested  in  settling 
the  land,  divided  it  into  640-acre  tracts  and  used  it  chiefly  for  stakes  in 
gambling. 

One  of  the  many  explanations  of  the  origin  of  Crusoe  Island's  inhabitants 
is  that  they  are  descendants  of  a  band  of  pirates  who  fled  to  the  back  country 
to  avoid  capture  after  an  unsuccessful  raid  on  the  river  settlements.  Another 
is  that  their  ancestors  were  a  tribe  of  coastal  Indians  who  were  forced  into 
the  swamp  by  the  early  settlers.  A  third,  and  more  widely  accepted  version, 
is  that  the  island  was  settled  by  French  refugees. 

This  story  is  that  in  1804,  during  Napoleon's  rule,  a  number  of  men  were 
sentenced  to  death  for  treason.  Some  of  the  officers  in  charge,  including  a 
young  French  surgeon,  Jean  Formy-Duvall,  conspired  to  help  the  prisoners 
escape  and  a  pseudo  death  report  was  returned  by  Formy-Duvall.  After  one 
of  the  supposedly  dead  men  had  been  captured,  the  young  surgeon,  with  a 
number  of  others  involved,  left  France  for  Haiti.  Shortly  after  their  arrival, 
the  island  was  thrown  into  a  panic  by  Jean  Jacques  Dessalines,  the  Negro 
who  expelled  the  French  and  from  1804  to  1806  reigned  as  emperor.  Formy- 
Duvall,  his  family,  and  three  other  French  families,  to  escape  Dessaline's 
cruelty,  fled  the  island,  finally  reaching  Smithville,  now  Southport.  Learning 
of  the  isolated  section  in  the  Green  Swamp  and  fearing  that  they  might  be 
returned  to  France,  they  moved  into  the  interior.  Still  another  theory  is  that 

338 


tour  5 a  339 

during  the  War  between  the  States  many  nonslaveholding  whites  fled  here 
to  avoid  being  drafted  for  military  service.  For  many  years  there  was  a 
definite  line  beyond  which  no  Negro  could  pass. 

Most  of  the  inhabitants  are  sturdy,  blond,  and  have  florid  complexions. 
Their  speech,  which  contains  no  trace  of  Latin,  bears  a  close  resemblance  to 
certain  northern  English  dialects.  Particularly  noticeable  is  the  manner  in 
which  they  linger  on  the  last  letter  or  syllable.  "Th'ust  a  daid  stick  inter 
t'land,"  they  say,  speaking  of  the  fertility  of  their  soil,  "an'  u'd  grow-awe." 
Handicrafts  were  being  taught  the  islanders  by  WPA  workers  during  the 
late  1930's. 


TOUR 


Junction  with  US  158 — Nashville — Wilson — Junction  with  State  102;  State 
58.  78  m. 

Norfolk  Southern  R.R.  parallels  route  between  Wilson  and  Stantonsburg. 
Roadbed  paved  throughout. 
Hotels  in  towns. 

This  route  crosses  rolling  hills  and  small,  rapid  streams  in  farming  coun- 
try where  bright-leaf  tobacco  and  cotton  are  the  staple  crops.  In  the  forests 
pine  predominates  over  the  hardwoods. 

State  58  branches  south  from  its  junction  with  US  158,  0  m.  (see  tour 
24a),  a  mile  east  of  Warrenton. 

At  CENTER VILLE,  19  m.  (100  pop.),  is  the  junction  with  unpaved 
State  561. 

Left  on  this  road  is  the  Portis  Gold  Mine,  6  m.,  at  the  confluence  of  Shocco  and  Fish- 
ing Creeks,  discovered  about  1845  by  a  settler  named  Portis  who  was  amazed  by  the 
firelight  gleam  of  gold  particles  in  the  clay  with  which  he  chinked  his  cabin.  The  mine, 
operated  intermittently  until  1936,  produced  gold  worth  $3,000,000. 

At  28  m.  is  the  Site  of  Belford,  in  ante-bellum  days  an  important  junc- 
tion of  the  Halifax-Raleigh  stage  route.  A  neighborhood  church  retains  the 
name. 

At  32  m.  is  Rose  Hill  (private),  a  mansion  built  in  1792  by  George 
Boddie  on  land  granted  to  his  father,  Nathaniel  Boddie,  by  Lord  Granville. 
Its  double  porch  is  fronted  by  Doric  columns  and  a  circular  drive  winds  to 
the  entrance.  The  flower  garden  was  laid  out  by  a  landscape  gardener  from 
England.  In  1876  the  house  was  enlarged  and  it  has  been  subsequently  re- 
modeled and  modernized,  but  the  original  lines  have  been  preserved. 

NASHVILLE,  35  m.  (180  alt.,  1,137  pop.),  and  Nash  County,  of  which 
it  is  the  seat,  were  named  for  the  Revolutionary  patriot,  Brig.  Gen.  Francis 
Nash  (see  tour  //).  This  pleasant  tobacco-belt  town  has  a  wide  business 
street  which  develops  into  a  residential  boulevard  planted  with  broadleaf 
Norway  maples.  This  region  is  favorable  to  diversified  farming  as  well  as  to 
tobacco  culture.  The  cornerstone  of  the  brick  Nash  County  Courthouse 
(1883)  contains  a  quart  of  Nash  County  brandy. 

Nashville  is  at  the  junction  with  US  64  (see  tour  26a). 

SILVER  LAKE,  48  m.,  is  a  recreation  center. 

340 


TOUR    0  34I 

WILSON,  54  m.  (147  alt.,  12,613  pop.)  {see  tour  3),  is  at  the  junction 
with  US  301  {see  tour  j)  and  US  264  {see  tour  2j). 

STANTONSBURG,  65  m.  (92  alt.,  607  pop.),  incorporated  in  1817  and 
supposedly  named  for  the  founder,  was  a  thriving  village  before  the  Revo- 
lution; it  has  become  a  marketing  center  for  a  tobacco-producing  area. 

At  78  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  102  {see  tour  2),  2  miles  west  of 
Snow  Hill. 


TOUR 


(South  Hill,  Va.) — Henderson — Raleigh — Southern  Pines — Rockingham — 

(Cheraw,  S.  C);  US  i. 

Virginia  Line — South  Carolina  Line,  180  m. 

Seaboard  Air  Line  R.R.  parallels  the  route  between  Norlina  and  Rockingham. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  cities  and  towns;  tourist  homes,  inns,  and  camps  along  route. 


Section  a.  VIRGINIA  LINE  to  RALEIGH;  66  m.  US  i 

This  route  runs  through  rolling  cotton,  corn,  and  tobacco  farm  lands, 
and  occasional  pine  and  oak  forests.  US  i  crosses  the  Virginia-North  Carolina 
Line,  0  m.,  15  miles  south  of  South  Hill,  Va.  {see  va.  tour  /). 

At  NORLINA,  8  m.  (438  alt.,  761  pop.),  is  the  northern  junction  with 
US  158  (see  tour  24a). 

Between  Norlina  and  Henderson  lies  part  of  the  State's  "black  belt," 
populated  by  descendants  of  slaves,  numerous  in  this  plantation  region. 
Many  Negroes  bear  the  names  of  the  families  to  whom  their  ancestors 
belonged.  Operating  in  this  section  prior  to  the  War  between  the  States  were 
groups  of  white  men  called  by  the  Negroes  "paddyrollers."  The  name 
referred  to  the  patrols  of  six  men  from  each  militia  company  established  by 
legislative  acts,  whose  duty  it  was  to  patrol  each  district  at  least  once  every 
two  weeks,  apprehending  and  punishing  Negroes  found  outside  their  masters' 
plantations  without  passes  or  making  themselves  otherwise  objectionable. 
In  Negro  dialect  the  patrols  became  "patteroles,"  or  "patter-rollers,"  which 
forms  are  used  by  Joel  Chandler  Harris  in  Uncle  Remus  and  by  Charles  W. 
Chesnutt  in  the  Conjur  Woman.  As  the  common  punishment  was  to  place 
the  offender  across  a  barrel  and  apply  a  paddle  instead  of  the  legal  lash,  and 
as  the  barrel  was  apt  to  roll  under  the  impact,  the  administrators  became 
facetiously  known  as  "paddle-rollers,"  and  finally  "paddy-rollers." 

At  9.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  junction  with  another  dirt  road,  1.4  m. ;  R.  2  m.  on  this 
road  to  Poplar  Mount  {private),  in  a  grove  of  great  oaks  (R).  Before  the  War  between 
the  States  the  house  was  surrounded  by  a  grove  of  imported  yew  trees,  of  which  only  a 
single  magnificent  tree  remains.  The  rambling  story-and-a-half  house  is  covered  with 
beaded  weatherboarding,  with  entrance  door  protected  by  a  low  gabled  porch.  There  are 
two  end  chimneys  at  the  right  end,  beyond  which  are  several  additions.  On  the  left  is  a 
small  office  building  with  hip  roof  and  a  small  porch  supported  by  octagonal  posts. 

Poplar  Mount   was   built   as   the  home  of   Weldon   Nathaniel    Edwards    (1 788-1 873), 

342 


tour  7  343 

Congressman  (1815-27),  State  senator  (1833-36,  1850-54),  speaker  of  the  State  senate 
1850-54),  leader  in  the  organization  of  the  secession  party  early  in  1861,  and  president 
of  the  North  Carolina  secession  convention  in  1862.  Edwards  practised  scientific  agricul- 
ture. Instead  of  planting  cotton  he  concentrated  on  the  growing  of  grain,  hay,  fruit,  and 
tobacco,  and  the  breeding  and  improvement  of  stock.  Game  chickens  were  his  pride  and 
joy  and  furnished  entertainment  for  his  numerous  guests. 

RIDGEWAY,  10  m.  (422  alt.,  100  pop.),  is  in  a  region  of  prosperous 
small  farms  producing  vegetables,  berries,  fruits,  and  Ridgeway  cantaloups. 
Most  of  the  farmers  came  here  in  the  1880's  from  southern  Germany  by 
way  of  New  York  and  Pennsylvania.  Since  the  beginning  of  the  settlement, 
when  most  of  the  people  spoke  no  English,  the  Lutheran  Church  has  been 
the  center  of  social  life.  The  church  served  also  as  a  schoolhouse  and,  until 
the  children  began  attending  State  schools,  both  English  and  German  were 
taught.  Part  of  the  church  services  are  still  conducted  in  German. 

MANSON,  12  m.  (429  alt.,  70  pop.),  is  a  community  of  farmhouses. 
About  1850  the  Roanoke  Ry.  built  a  line  from  this  point  to  Clarksville,  Va. 
During  the  War  between  the  States,  General  Longstreet's  soldiers  took  up  the 
entire  railroad  and  laid  it  between  Greensboro  and  Danville,  Va.,  to  trans- 
port supplies  from  western  North  Carolina  to  Richmond. 

MIDDLEBURG,  17  m.  (489  alt.,  138  pop.),  a  farming  community 
founded  in  1781,  was  midway  between  terminals  of  the  Raleigh  &  Gas- 
ton R.R.  Dr.  Joseph  Hawkins  established  one  of  the  State's  earliest  medical 
schools  at  his  home  here  in  1808.  Several  granite  quarries  are  operated  in  the 
vicinity. 


At  17.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 


Right  on  this  road  to  Pleasant  Hill  (private),  0.6  m.,  a  two-and-one-half-story  clap- 
boarded  house  with  gable  roof,  dormers,  and  twin  end  chimneys.  The  low  wings  on  each 
side  of  the  central  section  and  some  of  the  ornaments  in  the  cornice,  notably  the  Greek 
fret,  are  possibly  additions  of  the  1850's  when  the  house  changed  ownership.  An  in- 
appropriate porch  with  rough  stone  columns  was  added  in  1869. 

Pleasant  Hill  was  erected  by  Col.  Philemon  Hawkins,  Jr.  (1752-1833).  Hawkins  fought 
alongside  his  father,  Tryon's  chief  aid  at  Alamance  (see  tour  25),  but  father  and  son 
later  became  ardent  patriots.  The  son  was  a  colonel  in  the  Provincial  militia,  member  of 
Provincial  Congresses  and  of  the  1789  convention  that  ratified  the  Federal  Constitution 
(see  fayetteville).  Pleasant  Hill  in  1777  was  the  birthplace  of  Colonel  Hawkins'  son, 
William  Hawkins,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1811-14). 

At  2.1  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  L.  1.5  m.  on  this  road  to  the  junction 
with  a  sand-clay  road;  R.  2  m.  on  this  road  to  Ashland  (private).  This  two-story  house, 
three  bays  wide,  has  a  doorway  on  the  right-hand  bay  and  a  story-and-a-half  addition  on 
the  right  with  end  chimneys  matching  the  twin  chimneys  on  the  left  side  of  the  main 
house.  The  beaded  weatherboarding  is  painted  white,  and  both  eaves  and  window  head- 
ings have  well-designed  cornices.  A  later  porch  extending  across  the  entire  facade  is  sup- 
ported by  Roman  Doric  columns,  supplemented  by  log  posts.  Ashland  was  built  in  1746 
by  Samuel  Henderson,  farmer  and  miller.  He  was  one  time  high  sheriff  of  Granville 
County  and  became  the  father  of  Richard  Henderson. 

Near  Ashland  is  the  Grave  of  Richard  Henderson  (1735-85),  judge  of  the  Crown 
who  was  driven  from  the  bench  at  Hillsboro  by  the  Regulators  (see  tour  23);  they  later 
burned  his  home.  Judge  Henderson  was  the  founder  and  president  of  the  Transylvania 
Colony,  organized  in  1775  to  form  a  new  State  in  the  Indian  territory  that  later  became 
Tennessee  and  Kentucky.  Daniel  Boone  helped  in  the  negotiations  with  the  Indians  for 


344  tours 

the  purchase  of  the  land  and,  with  30  axmen,  went  ahead  to  cut  a  passage  through  the 
tangled  laurel  thickets  for  the  emigrants. 

HENDERSON,  23  m.  (513  alt.,  6,345  P°P-)>  an  industrial  town  in  the 
bright-leaf  tobacco  belt,  is  the  seat  of  Vance  County.  Its  huge  warehouses 
bustle  with  activity  in  the  fall  as  tobacco  farmers  bring  in  their  crops  by 
automobile,  truck,  and  wagon.  Auction  sales  of  tobacco  (Mon.-Fri.,  Sept. 
to  Christmas)  are  bewildering  scenes.  Only  warehouse  habitues  can  under- 
stand the  jargon  of  the  auctioneer  as  he  works  with  lightning  rapidity.  In- 
dustrial plants  include  cotton  mills,  a  fertilizer  plant,  and  motor  truck 
factory. 

Henderson  is  the  residence  of  the  Castello  family,  former  circus  riders, 
whose  real  name  is  Loughlin.  The  mother  of  the  family  is  descended  from 
one  of  the  last  jesters  of  the  English  court.  The  old  barn  in  which  they  had 
a  practice  circus  ring  for  winter  rehearsal  is  still  standing. 

On  the  courthouse  lawn  is  a  Monument  to  Leonard  Henderson  (1772- 
1833),  Chief  Justice  of  the  State  Supreme  Court,  for  whom  the  town  was 
named  when  laid  out  in  1840. 

Henderson  is  at  the  southern  junction  with  US  158  (see  tour  24a). 

Right  from  Henderson  on  paved  State  39  to  WILLIAMSBORO,  7  m.,  settled  about 
1740  and  called  Nutbush  until  1780  when  Col.  Robert  Burton  named  the  town  Williams- 
borough  for  his  father-in-law*  Judge  John  Williams,  who  had  given  him  the  land.  By 
the  early  1800's  the  place  was  a  thriving  community  with  the  finest  race  track  in  the 
State. 

The  Site  of  the  Sneed  Mansion  House  is  on  one  of  the  original  town  lots.  The 
mansion  was  such  a  favorite  with  lawyers  and  judges  that,  until  about  i860,  court  was 
often  said  to  have  "adjourned  to  Sneed  Mansion  House." 

St.  John's  Episcopal  Church,  a  white  clapboarded  structure  with  gable  roof  was  built 
in  the  late  18th  century.  The  entrance  in  the  front  gable  end,  which  is  topped  with  a 
small  wooden  cupola,  is  protected  by  a  small  gabled  portico  with  four  slender  posts;  in 
the  pediment  of  the  portico  is  a  symbolic  star.  The  parish  was  organized  in  1746.  The 
first  rector  was  the  Rev.  John  Cupples,  sent  out  in  1766  by  the  Society  for  the  Propaga- 
tion of  the  Gospel.  The  roster  of  the  first  vestry  includes  names  prominent  in  the  section. 

On  the  south  side  of  Main  St.  is  a  long  lane  leading  to  Cedar  Walk  {private),  hidden 
from  view  by  a  few  of  the  cedars  that  gave  the  place  its  name.  It  was  built  in  1750  by 
Hutchins  Burton  for  a  boarding  school,  and  called  Blooming  Hope.  Burton  hanged  him- 
self from  the  attic  stairwell  and  visitors  testify  to  the  presence  of  his  ghost.  The  house  is 
two  stories  high  with  a  central  door  flanked  by  pilasters.  The  wing  at  the  left,  a  later 
addition,  has  a  fine  dentiled  cornice,  the  detail  of  which  resembles  the  work  at  Burnside 
and  Prospect  Hill  (see  architecture). 

1.  Right  from  Williamsboro  1  m.  on  a  dirt  road  to  the  Ruins  of  Oakland.  Four  chimneys 
are  all  that  remain  of  the  summer  home  occupied  about  1820  by  James  Turner,  Governor 
of  North  Carolina  (1802-5),  and  U.  S.  Senator  (1805-16). 

2.  Left  from  Williamsboro  0.9  m.  on  a  dirt  road  to  the  junction  with  another  dirt  road; 
R.  1.3  m.  on  this  road  to  the  junction  with  a  marked  lane;  R.  0.6  m.  on  the  lane  to 
Burnside  (private).  This  two-story  weatherboarded  house  has  a  dentiled  cornice  and 
upper  and  lower  doorways  with  semicircular  fanlights  and  side  lights.  A  brick  in  the 
east  end  chimney  bears  the  date  1801.  The  interior  carved  woodwork,  designed  with 
varying  detail,  is  characteristic  of  the  Classic  Revival  period. 

Tradition  is  that  in  1760  this  was  the  home  of  Col.  Memucan  Hunt,  first  State 
treasurer,  and  later  that  of  his  son,  Dr.  Thomas  Hunt,  who  inherited  the  place  about 
1820.  It  was  named  Burnside  in  1824,  after  Dr.  Hunt  had  sold  it  to  Patrick  Hamilton, 
one   of  five   brothers   who  came  here  from   Scotland   about    1806.  The  Hamiltons  were 


tour  7  345 

born  in  Burnside,  Lanarkshire,  according  to  the  tombstone  of  William  Hamilton  (1779- 
1840)  in  St.  John's  Churchyard. 

On  State  39  at  12.7  m.  in  Townsville  (421  alt.,  244  pop.),  is  the  Nutbush  Presby- 
terian Church  (1805),  whose  congregation  was  organized  in  1754.  This  little  white 
weatherboarded  box  of  a  church  with  square-headed  windows  was  one  of  the  few 
churches  for  white  people  where  John  Chavis  often  preached  between  1809  and  1832. 
Chavis,  a  free  Negro,  displayed  unusual  intelligence  as  a  child  and  was  sent  to  Prince- 
ton— according  to  tradition,  to  demonstrate  whether  a  Negro  could  acquire  a  college 
education.  He  became  a  Presbyterian  minister  and  taught  school  in  Raleigh  and  other 
North  Carolina  towns.  Among  his  pupils  were  Willie  P.  Mangum,  later  a  U.  S.  Senator, 
Charles  Manly,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1849-51),  and  the  sons  of  Chief  Justice 
Leonard  Henderson. 

BEARPOND,  28  m. 

Left  from  Bearpond  on  a  graveled  road  to  the  Site  of  Gillburg,  2  m.,  marked  by 
stone  slave  houses  built  before  1820. 

KITTRELL,  31  m.  (372  alt.,  220  pop.),  is  surrounded  by  the  flowering 
fields  and  rows  of  evergreens  of  a  nursery. 

Right  from  Kittrell  on  the  unpaved  Lynbank  Rd.  to  RUIN  CREEK,  2  m.,  Site  of 
Popcastle  Inn,  a  Colonial  tavern  and  gaming  house  operated  until  about  i860.  It  is  said 
to  have  been  built  by  a  nobleman,  a  political  refugee  from  Europe,  and  later  owned  by 
Captain  Pop,  a  pirate  who  hid  gold  nearby. 

At  35  m.  US  1  crosses  Tabbs  Creek  on  which  John  Mask  Peace,  first 
known  white  settler  of  this  region,  lived  in  1713. 

FRANKLINTON,  40  m.  (432  alt.,  1,320  pop.),  is  a  textile-manufacturing 
and  lumber-milling  town  as  well  as  a  shipping  point  for  cotton  and  bright- 
leaf  tobacco. 

Left  from  Franklinton  on  paved  State  56  is  LOUISBURG,  10  m.  (226  alt,  2,182 
pop.),  seat  of  Franklin  County.  This  town,  the  "old  fords  of  the  Tar,"  was  first  settled 
in  1758,  and  in  1764  was  named  in  commemoration  of  the  capture  by  American  forces 
of  the  French  fortress  at  Louisburg,  Nova  Scotia.  Lumber  is  the  principal  manufactured 
material.  Louisburg  is  the  birthplace  of  Edwin  W.  Fuller,  author  of  the  Angel  in  the 
Cloud  and  Other  Poems  and  Sea  Gift  (1873),  a  novel  once  so  popular  at  the  University 
of  North  Carolina  that  the  work  was  known  as  the  Freshman's  Bible. 

Louisburg  College,  in  a  10-acre  oak  grove,  is  a  Methodist  coeducational  junior  col- 
lege, with  a  student  body  of  about  400.  The  buildings  of  red-painted  brick  are  scattered 
about  the  administration  center  (1855),  which  has  a  Greek  Doric  portico;  the  later 
wings  have  small  Roman  Doric  porticoes.  A  chimney,  remains  of  a  building  erected  in 
1 814  and  burned  in  1928,  bears  a  tablet  with  the  date  1802.  The  school  was  chartered 
as  the  Louisburg  Female  Seminary  in  that  year  when  it  was  decided  to  separate  the  male 
and  female  departments  of  the  Franklin  Academy  for  Males  and  Females,  whose  first 
building  was  erected  in  1779. 

In  1855  tne  school  was  reorganized  as  a  private  college.  In  1891  it  came  into  the 
possession  of  Washington  Duke,  who  operated  it  until  his  death  in  1907;  his  son, 
Benjamin  N.  Duke,  gave  it  to  the  North  Carolina  Methodist  Conference. 

The  Drinking  Fountain  and  Marker,  Courthouse  Sq.,  was  erected  to  commemorate 
the  designing  by  Orren  Randolph  Smith,  a  North  Carolinian,  of  the  Stars  and  Bars — 
first  of  the  Confederacy's  four  flags — and  its  first  display  in  North  Carolina  at  Louis- 
burg, Mar.  18,  1 861. 

1.  Left  from  Louisburg  on  oil-treated  State  561  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road,  2.5  m. ; 
L.  2  m.  on  the  dirt  road  to  the  John  Allen  Place  {private).  The  house  is  covered  with 
beaded  weatherboarding  and  fronted  by  a  one-story  bracketed  porch.  The  east  chimney 


346  TOURS 

is  said  to  date  from  181 8,  but  the  part  belonging  to  this  date  has  been  incorporated  with 
the  rest  of  the  story-and-a-half  structure  and  is  indistinguishable.  The  west  chimney  bears 
the  date  1837. 

Inside  are  beautiful  old  furniture  and  interesting  relics.  John  Allen  was  known  as 
"Spelling  John"  because  of  his  phenomenal  memory.  He  could  spell  a  word  and  tell 
where  it  stood  by  page  and  line  in  the  old  blue-back  speller.  The  family  has  a  lustre 
goblet  that  he  won  as  the  best  speller  in  North  Carolina,  and  a  letter  signed  by  Robert  E. 
Lee  testifying  to  the  excellence  of  John  Allen's  scholarship  at  Washington  (later  Wash- 
ington and  Lee)  College.  The  family  also  has  a  book  of  calculations  used  for  dictation 
in  the  schools  when  textbooks  were  not  available;  it  was  written  about  1814  with  a 
goose  quill  and  illustrates  the  "rule  of  threes."  John  Allen's  half  brother,  Orren  Randolph 
Smith,  was  living  here  when  his  Confederate  flag  was  first  displayed. 

On  State  561  is  (R)  the  Old  Collins  Place  {private),  9.4  m.,  a  two-story  house,  two 
rooms  wide,  with  two  stone  end  chimneys.  Every  opening  in  the  facade  is  designed  with 
a  Palladian  motif. 

2.  Left  from  Louisburg  on  paved  State  39  to  the  Home  of  Green  Hill  (private),  1  m., 
where  Bishop  Coke  held  the  first  North  Carolina  Methodist  Conference  in  1785.  This 
well-preserved  white  frame  farmhouse  has  dormer  windows,  three  great  brick  end 
chimneys,  and  high  porches.  Green  Hill  was  prominent  in  State  as  well  as  Methodist 
affairs,  represented  Bute  County  in  four  Provincial  Congresses  (1774-76),  and  was  a 
major  of  the  Bute  militia  in  the  Revolution. 

3.  Right  from  Louisburg  on  paved  State  39  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road,  2  m. ;  L. 
2  m.  on  this  road  to  the  point  where  Lynch's  Creek  enters  Tar  River,  the  Site  of  the 
Hanging  of  Major  Lynch  (1767).  This  British  officer,  commissioned  to  collect  taxes 
in  the  frontier  Colony,  was  here  summarily  executed,  carrying  out  the  sentence  of  a 
mock  court;  the  term  "lynch  law"  is  believed  by  some  to  have  so  originated.  One  of  the 
last  remaining  bands  of  Tuscarora  Indians  in  North  Carolina  was  exterminated  here  in 
1725.  Skeletons  and  relics  have  been  found  nearby. 

At  49.5  m.  US  1  follows  a  boulevard  whose  grassy  parkway  is  planted 
with  dwarf  magnolias  and  shrubs.  In  WAKE  FOREST,  50  m.  (400  alt., 
1,536  pop.),  a  college  town,  the  streets  are  bordered  with  fine  trees,  and  old 
houses  harmonize  with  the  ivy-grown  buildings  on  the  wooded  campus  of 
Wake  Forest  College  (Baptist)  in  the  heart  of  the  village.  When  Wake 
Forest  Institute  opened  in  1834,  each  of  its  16  students  was  required  to  bring 
an  ax  and  a  hoe  in  addition  to  two  sheets  and  two  towels. 

Reorganized  as  a  college  in  1838,  Wake  Forest  in  1894  added  a  school 
of  law  and  in  1896  a  department  of  religion,  first  in  connection  with  an 
American  college  of  liberal  arts.  The  standard  four-year  course  leads  to 
degrees  of  B.A.  and  B.S.,  and  graduate  work  is  offered  leading  to  the  M.A. 
degree.  A  summer  school  is  conducted. 

The  college  buildings  occupy  a  beautiful  25-acre  campus  shaded  by  mag- 
nolias, oaks,  maples,  elms,  and  cedars.  Wait  Hall,  erected  in  1839  and  named 
for  the  institution's  first  president,  Samuel  Wait,  was  destroyed  by  fire  in 
1933.  A  building  program  in  the  1930's  included  a  new  Wait  Hall,  three- 
story  brick  building  in  modified  Georgian  Colonial  style;  the  William 
Amos  Johnson  Memorial  Medical  Building;  a  combination  gymnasium 
and  auditorium;  concrete  stadium  and  field  house.  The  Old  Dormitory 
was  built  about  1839  by  Capt.  John  Berry  (see  architecture).  Off  the 
campus  are  the  Calvin  Jones  House  (1820);  the  North  Brick  House 
(1838)  which  served  as  the  home  of  early  presidents;  and  the  South  Brick 
House  (1838). 


tour  7  347 

The  marked  Site  of  Isaac  Hunter's  Tavern,  which  Hunter  operated 
in  1788,  is  at  60  m.  The  North  Carolina  General  Assembly  ruled  that  the 
State  capital  should  be  placed  within  10  miles  of  this  point. 

RALEIGH,  66  m.  (363  alt.,  37,379  pop.)  {see  raleigh). 

Points  of  Interest:  State  Capitol,  Christ  Church,  Site  of  the  Birthplace  of  Andrew 
Johnson,  Joel  Lane  House,  N.  C.  State  College  of  Agriculture  and  Engineering,  and 
others. 

Raleigh  is  at  the  junction  with  US  15A  {see  tour  9),  US  64  {see  tour 
26),  and  US  70  {see  tour  28). 


Section  b.  RALEIGH  to  SOUTH  CAROLINA  LINE;  114  m.  US  1 

Between  RALEIGH,  0  m.,  and  14  m.,  US  1  unites  with  US  64  {see 
tour  26). 

This  route  swings  into  thickly  wooded  farming  country  where  cotton, 
corn,  and  tobacco  are  the  predominant  crops. 

MEREDITH  COLLEGE,  3.5  m.,  is  a  four-year  Baptist  college  with  a 
student  body  of  more  than  500  young  women.  Fourteen  buildings,  most  of 
them  of  brick,  lie  at  the  end  of  a  tree-lined  avenue  (R).  Established  in  1899, 
the  institution  was  named  for  the  Rev.  Thomas  Meredith,  for  many  years 
a  leader  of  the  Baptist  denomination  in  North  Carolina.  A  summer  session 
is  conducted  in  conjunction  with  Wake  Forest  College. 

METHOD,  4  m.  (444  alt.,  300  pop.),  Negro  village,  was  developed  by 
Berry  O'Kelly  (d.1932),  Negro  educator,  merchant,  and  leader,  who  founded 
the  school  which  bears  his  name.  The  plant  includes  three  large  brick  build- 
ings and  a  church. 

At  5  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  70  {see  tour  28),  which  unites  with  US 
1-64  between  this  point  and  8  m. 

In  the  State  Fairgrounds,  5  m.  (R),  the  annual  fair  {yd  w\.  Oct.)  is 
attended  by  about  250,000  people.  A  steel  grandstand  and  concrete  bleachers, 
race  tracks,  agricultural  exhibit  buildings,  machinery  sheds,  stock  barns, 
offices,  and  a  hospital  are  included  in  the  equipment. 

State  Highway  Shops,  5.1  m.,  a  group  of  sprawling,  barnlike  buildings 
(R),  include  a  supply  depot,  garage,  and  repair  shop. 

At  8  m.  US  70  {see  tour  28)  branches  R. 

At  8.5  m.  on  US  1-64  is  CARY  (496  alt.,  900  pop.),  a  farming  com- 
munity founded  about  1852  by  A.  Frank  Page,  father  of  Walter  Hines 
Page,  the  author,  editor,  and  wartime  Ambassador  to  Great  Britain  (1913- 
18).  The  Birthplace  and  Home  of  Walter  Hines  Page  {private)  is 
across  the  railroad  tracks,  half  a  block  from  Schoolhouse  St.  The  two-story 
white  dwelling  stands  in  a  grove  of  elms,  surrounded  by  a  picket  fence. 


348  TOURS 

Page  as  a  boy  of  12  is  said  to  have  walked  the  railroad  tracks  8  miles  to 
Raleigh  to  hear  President  Andrew  Johnson  speak. 

Right  on  a  graveled  road  from  a  brick  filling  station  at  the  outskirts  of  Cary  to  the 
junction  with  dirt  Reedy  Creek  Rd.,  at  a  schoolhouse,  2  m. ;  R.  2.5  m.  on  this  road  through 
a  pine  forest  to  the  Old  Company  Mill,  on  the  bank  of  Crabtree  Creek  beside  a  dam. 
Walter  Hines  Page  laid  some  of  the  scenes  of  his  novel  the  Southerner  in  this  neighbor- 
hood. The  old  mill,  owned  by  his  grandfather  and  operated  as  a  powder  factory  during 
the  War  between  the  States,  is  in  good  condition,  its  overshot  wheel  intact  after  100 
years.  In  front  of  the  mill  are  marks  of  an  old  trail,  probably  a  portion  of  the  old  Rams- 
gate  Road  cut  by  Governor  Tryon  on  his  way  to  quell  the  Regulators  {see  tour  25).  Boy 
Scout  cabins  and  a  pond  (swimming)  occupy  the  space  in  the  woods.  The  site  is  part  of 
Crabtree  Creek  Park,  a  6,000-acre  national  recreation  and  demonstration  area. 

At  14  m.  US  64  (see  tour  26)  branches  R. 

At  16  m.  on  US  1  is  APEX  (504  alt.,  863  pop.),  which  received  its  name 
in  the  early  1870's  when  a  survey  for  the  Raleigh  &  Augusta  R.R.  showed 
this  to  be  the  highest  point  on  the  right-of-way  between  Norfolk  and  San- 
ford.  After  North  Carolina  had  adopted  prohibition  in  1907,  Apex  was 
used  by  the  Baldwin  gang  as  headquarters  for  distributing  liquor  run  in 
from  Virginia. 

The  route  crosses  the  Haw  River,  30  m.,  through  a  region  where  the  hills 
attain  the  elevations  of  small  mountains,  and  the  landscape  takes  on  a 
rugged  aspect  seldom  found  in  the  Piedmont.  Swift-flowing  streams,  Rocky 
River,  Robinson,  and  Bear  Creeks,  furnish  power  for  many  small  mills  that 
grind  the  wheat  grown  in  the  region. 

US  1  crosses  the  Deep  River,  31.5  m.,  a  narrow  stream  that  twists  through 
green  valleys.  High  abrupt  banks  in  places  become  hanging  cliffs  with  a 
drop  of  100  feet  or  more.  Rabbits,  squirrels,  and  birds  are  abundant.  Deep 
River  joins  the  Haw  a  mile  to  the  southeast,  their  confluence  forming  the 
Cape  Fear. 

LOCKVILLE,  41  m.,  formerly  known  as  Ramseys  Mill,  was  the  scene 
of  a  British  encampment  after  the  Battle  of  Guilford  Courthouse  (see  tour 
13).  Cornwallis'  troops  remained  only  long  enough  to  build  a  bridge  across 
Deep  River. 

Between  this  point  and  52  m.,  US  1  unites  with  US  15-501  (see  tour  10). 

South  of  Lockville  US  1,  called  the  Jefferson  Davis  Highway,  has  bronze 
and  granite  markers  placed  at  10-mile  intervals  by  the  United  Daughters 
of  the  Confederacy  to  honor  the  President  of  the  Confederacy. 

At  42  m.  the  highway  crosses  the  Granville  Line  (see  tour  2  and 
history). 

SANFORD,  46  m.  (375  alt.,  4,253  pop.),  seat  of  Lee  County,  on  the  edge 
of  the  pine  belt  bordering  the  Sandhill  section,  is  the  market  town  for  four 
counties.  Loads  of  tobacco  and  cotton  on  the  way  to  the  warehouses  give  the 
town  animation  in  the  fall.  In  the  surrounding  country  descendants  of  Staf- 


tour  7  349 

fordshire  potters  who  came  here  200  years  ago  continue  their  craft,  using  the 
old-time  kick  wheel  and  mule-power  grinding  mills. 

The  North  State  Pottery  {open)  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best  known 
in  the  State. 

Sanford  is  at  the  junction  with  US  421  {see  tour  29). 

At  47.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  country  road. 

Left  on  this  road  a  short  distance  to  the  Buffalo  Presbyterian  Church.  The  white 
frame  Victorian  Gothic  building,  erected  between  1878  and  1880,  is  the  fourth  to  serve 
the  congregation.  The  Scottish  congregation  was  organized  before  April  1796. 

CAMERON,  57  m.  (304  alt.,  287  pop.),  is  one  of  the  largest  dewberry 
markets  in  the  world,  shipping  an  average  of  60,000  crates  each  May. 

VASS,  61  m.  (287  alt.,  602  pop.),  is  likewise  a  dewberry  market. 

At  62  m.  the  route  crosses  Little  River.  Beyond  are  the  dry,  white  ridges 
of  the  Sandhills.  Shortleaf  pines  give  way  to  the  lighter  green,  longleaf 
variety.  The  region  abounds  with  fox,  raccoon,  opossum,  squirrel,  rabbit, 
quail,  and  dove.  Many  deer  stray  into  this  section  from  the  game  refuge  at 
Fort  Bragg  {see  tour  3A). 

SOUTHERN  PINES,  72  m.  (516  alt.,  2,524  pop.) 

Transportation:  New  York -Florida  Limited  via  Seaboard  Air  Line  R.R.  Additional  trains 

with  through  Pullman  service  in  winter. 
Accommodations:    11    modern   hotels,    most   of   them    open   only   during   winter   season; 

tourist  homes  and  boarding  houses;  rates  slightly  higher  in  winter. 
Information  Service:  City  Clerk,  Library,  E.  Broad  St. 
Golf    (rates    also   by  season):    Mid-Pines  Country  Club,    18   holes,   greens   fee,   $2;   Pine 

Needles  Country  Club,   18  holes,  greens  fee,  $2;  Southern  Pines  Country  Club,  two 

18-hole  courses,  greens  fee,  $1.50. 

ANNUAL  EVENTS 

Golf  Tournaments:  Weekly  matches  between  Dec.  15  and  Apr.  1;  Women's  Mid-South 
Championship  (54  holes),  3rd  wk.  Mar.  Horse  Events:  Sandhills  Steeplechase  and 
Racing  Assn.  meet,  3rd  Sat.  Apr.;  gymkhanas  on  alternate  Fridays  throughout  season; 
horse  shows,  Jan.  and  Apr.;  hunter  trials,  Mar.  Tennis:  Spring  tournament,  2nd  wk. 
Mar.;  Dogwood  tournament,  4th  wk.  Apr. 

This  winter  resort  whose  golf  courses  attract  the  foremost  professionals 
and  amateurs  of  the  country,  was  established  primarily  as  a  health  resort. 
Exploitation  of  the  mild  dry  climate,  coupled  with  the  adaptability  of  the 
Sandhills  to  peach  growing  and  truck  raising,  helped  to  develop  this  region 
of  pine  barrens,  which,  after  the  exhaustion  of  its  hardwoods,  had  almost 
reverted  to  a  wilderness. 

During  the  season  Southern  Pines'  population  swells  to  about  5,000  resi- 
dents. The  town,  incorporated  in  1887,  centers  around  the  landscaped  rail- 
way station.  Broad  Street,  running  parallel  with  the  tracks,  is  a  two-way 
boulevard  with  a  parkway  of  magnolias,  pines,  and  blossoming  shrubs. 
Here  are  gift  shops,  book  stores,  newsstands,  specialty  shops,  and  a  motion 
picture  theater. 


350  TOURS 

The  writers'  colony  at  Southern  Pines  had  as  its  founder  James  Boyd, 
author  of  Drums,  and  his  wife,  who  influenced  Katherine  Newlin  Burt, 
the  novelist,  and  Struthers  Burt,  novelist  and  essayist,  to  join  them  here. 
Other  members  of  the  colony  are  Lawrence  B.  Smith,  author  of  fishing  and 
hunting  stories;  Walter  and  Bernice  Gilkyson,  short-story  writers,  and  Almet 
Jenks  and  Maude  Parker,  contributors  to  national  magazines. 

Southern  Pines  is  at  the  junction  with  State  2  {see  tour  J  A). 

ABERDEEN,  76  m.  (500  alt.,  1,382  pop.),  is  a  trading  town  and  shipping 
point  for  tobacco,  truck,  and  fruit.  A.  Frank  Page,  a  miller,  and  father  of 
Walter  Hines  Page,  came  here  from  Wake  County.  The  family  built  the 
railroad  that  is  now  part  of  the  Norfolk  Southern.  Originally  called  Blues 
Crossing,  the  town  became  Aberdeen  when  it  was  incorporated  in  1893. 
Many  of  the  early  settlers  in  this  section  were  Scottish. 

Left  from  Aberdeen  on  paved  State  5  to  Old  Bethesda  Church  (adm.  by  permission 
of  Mrs.  Belle  Pleasants  whose  house  is  100  yds.  R.  Homecoming  usually  1st  Sun.  in  Oct.), 
1  m.  The  church  (1850),  a  rectangular  white  clapboarded  structure  with  tower  and  spire 
in  the  center  of  the  facade,  contains  an  old  slave  gallery  with  a  separate  entrance.  At  the 
close  of  the  War  between  the  States,  part  of  General  Sherman's  army  encamped  in  and 
around  the  building. 

The  congregation,  organized  in  1790  by  the  Philadelphia  Presbytery,  built  its  first 
church  that  year  in  the  midst  of  a  5-acre  tract  which  had  been  granted  in  1766  by  King 
George  III  to  John  Patterson. 

In  Bethesda  Cemetery  is  the  Tomb  of  Walter  Hines  Page.  On  a  simple  slab  of 
gray  granite  is  inscribed  only  his  name  and  the  dates  Aug.  15,  1855— Dec.  21,  1918. 
Here  also  is  the  Grave  of  Frank  Page,  his  brother,  first  chairman  of  the  North  Carolina 
Highway  Commission,  which  started  the  State's  present  highway  system.  Beneath  the 
cedars  in  the  older  portion  of  the  cemetery  lie  crumbling,  crude,  and  stained  monuments 
to  early  settlers.  One  is  inscribed:  "In  Memory  of  COLIN  BETHUNE  (an  honest  man). 
A  native  of  Scotland  by  accident,  but  a  citizen  of  the  U.S.  from  choice  who  died  Mar.  29, 
1820.  Aged  64  years. 

His  dust  must  mingle  with  the  ground 

Till  the  last  trump's  awakening  sound 

It  will  then  arise  in  sweet  surprise 

To  meet  its  savior  in  the  skies." 

PINEBLUFF,  80  m.  (307  alt.,  289  pop.),  a  small  winter  resort,  has  a  few 
scattered  houses,  many  of  them  winter  residences,  on  its  wide  streets.  The 
large  hotel  was  converted  into  a  club,  later  into  a  sanatorium. 

At  84  m.  the  route  crosses  the  Lumber  River  and  runs  through  the  Sand- 
hills into  a  region  of  dark  pine  forest  and  darker  cypress  swamp,  draped  in 
vines  and  Spanish  moss. 

HOFFMAN,  88  m.  (428  alt.,  569  pop.),  is  the  center  for  the  62,000-acre 
SANDHILLS  LAND  UTILIZATION  PROJECT.  Here  the  Bureau  of 
Agricultural  Economics  is  (1939)  demonstrating  the  restoration  of  economic 
value  to  submarginal  farm  lands  and  cut-over  forests  by  developing  them  as 
recreation,  forestry,  and  wildlife  conservation  areas.  With  the  exception  of 
the  fish  hatchery,  this  project  when  completed  will  be  administered  by  the 
State. 

Within   this  area   are:   the   Indian   Camp   Recreational   Park   {cabins, 


TOUR    7  351 

trailer  camp,  recreation  pavilion),  on  the  shore  of  80-acre  Lake  McKinney 
{boating,  bathing);  the  Bureau  of  Fisheries'  McKinney  Lake  Hatchery 
containing  20  one-acre  ponds  for  propagating  bass,  bream,  and  crappie;  the 
Hoffman  Nursery,  growing  from  15  to  25  million  forest  seedlings  for 
reforestation  work  on  its  175  acres,  and  the  Pine  Forest  Game  Farm, 
equipped  with  a  brooder  house,  incubator  house,  fences,  and  coops  for  the 
propagation  of  quail  and  turkeys. 

ROCKINGHAM,  102  m.  (211  alt.,  2,906  pop.),  seat  of  Richmond 
County,  was  established  in  1785  and  named  for  the  Marquis  of  Rockingham 
who  befriended  the  Colony  before  the  Revolutionary  War.  Many  of  the 
inhabitants  are  descendants  of  original  settlers  and  the  town  has  retained 
somewhat  the  air  of  another  generation.  Although  the  county  has  over  a 
million  peach  trees,  cotton  constitutes  75  percent  of  the  farm  output.  The 
10  mills  in  the  region  employ  white  operatives  exclusively. 

In  Rockingham  Saturday  is  still  "Negro  day."  The  Negro  population  of 
the  section  is  almost  as  large  as  the  white.  Since  they  live  mostly  on  the 
cotton  plantations,  where  the  land  is  level,  the  rows  long,  and  the  summer 
sun  scorching,  Rockingham  grants  them  one  day  to  call  their  own.  The 
carnival  spirit  prevails  as  whole  families  stroll  about  in  their  best  clothes. 
In  picking  time  cotton  hands  discuss  the  price  of  cotton  and  the  wages 
planters  are  paying  for  labor  in  order  to  bargain  with  their  overseers. 

Rockingham  is  at  the  junction  with  US  220  {see  tour  13)  and  US  74 
{see  tour  31b). 

South  of  Rockingham  US  1  parallels  the  Pee  Dee  River  and  at  114  m. 
crosses  the  South  Carolina  Line,  10  miles  north  of  Cheraw,  S.  C.  {see  s.  c. 
tour  6). 


TOUR       7    A 


Southern  Pines — Pinehurst;  State  2.  7  m. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Resort  hotels,  many  open  only  in  winter. 

State  2,  known  as  Midland  Rd.,  branches  northwest  from  its  junction 
with  US  1  in  SOUTHERN  PINES,  0  m.  (see  tour  7).  Midland  Rd.,  a 
boulevard  with  pine-planted  central  parkway,  is  paralleled  in  stretches  by 
bridle  paths. 

The  residential  suburb,  KNOLLWOOD,  2  m.,  is  composed  of  country 
estates,  winter  cottages,  and  year-round  residences. 

At  2.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  marked  paved  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  KNOLLWOOD  AIRPORT,  2.5  m. 

At  2.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  marked  sand  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  the  Carolina  Orchid  Growers  Greenhouses  (open  2:30-4:30 
weekdays;  adm.  $1;  proceeds  to  charity),  100  yds.  The  climatic  conditions  of  the  tropics 
are  maintained  for  the  many  rare  orchids  grown  here. 

At  6  m.  is  the  Sandhills  Steeplechase  and  Racing  Association  Track 
and  Arena  (meet  yd  Sat.  Mar.). 

PINEHURST,  7  m.  (536  alt.,  1,600  pop.). 

Railroad  Station:  South  edge  of  village  at  US  15-501  for  Norfolk  Southern  R.R. 

Airport:  Knollwood  Airport,  5  m.  east  on  State  2  and  paved  road. 

Accommodations:  5  large  hotels;  rates  higher  Oct.  to  May. 

Information  Service:  Pinehurst,  Inc.,   1   Dogwood  Rd.  at  Market  Sq.,  or  E.  C.  Mignard, 

Hotel  Ambassador,  New  York  City. 
Golf:  Pinehurst  Country  Club,  four  18-hole  courses;  greens  fee,  $1  to  $2.50. 
Tennis:  6  sand-clay  courts. 

ANNUAL  EVENTS 

Golf  Tournaments:  Mid-South  Professional  Tournament,  mid-Nov.;  Seniors  Tournament, 
2nd  wk.  Mar.;  United  North  and  South  Open  Championship,  3rd  wk.  Mar.;  North 
and  South  Invitation  Championship  for  Women,  last  wk.  Mar.,  1st  wk.  Apr.;  North 
and  South  Invitation  Amateur  Championship,  2nd  wk.  Apr.  Tennis:  United  North 
and  South  Tournament,  2nd  and  3rd  wks.  Apr.  Races:  Sandhills  Steeplechase  and 
Racing  Assn.  meet,  3rd  Sat.  Mar.  Horse  Show:  Pinehurst  Jockey  Club,  Mar.  28-29. 
Field  Trials:  Continental  Field  Trial  Club,  late  Nov.;  Pointers  Club  of  America  mem- 
bership events,  1st  wk.  Dec;  open  events,  2nd  wk.,  Dec;  Pinehurst  Field  Trial 
Club,  2nd  wk.  Jan.  Kennel  Show:  Pinehurst  Kennel  Club,  auspices  American  Kennel 
Club,  early  Apr. 

352 


tour  7 a  353 

Pinehurst  is  a  winter  resort,  resembling  a  country  village.  Roads  and  drives 
ramble  past  great  estates,  many  of  which  are  open  the  year  around,  com- 
fortable hotels  and  inns,  and  numerous  smaller  residences  and  cottages  de- 
signed in  a  modified  Georgian  Colonial  style.  Aymar  Embury  II,  of  New 
York  and  Pinehurst,  set  the  architectural  style  of  the  colony.  Frederick  Law 
Olmsted,  landscape  architect,  laid  out  the  parks  and  open  spaces,  ornamenting 
the  curving  roads  with  evergreens,  hollies,  and  flowering  shrubs.  Sweet- 
scented  longleaf  pines  give  the  village  its  name. 

The  Market  Place,  Pinehurst's  business  district,  is  the  focal  point  of  the 
village,  which  does  not  depend  on  the  surrounding  country  for  patronage 
or  supplies.  While  tennis  courts  and  country  club  verandas  attract  gay 
throngs,  groups  of  elderly  ladies  take  the  air  in  old-fashioned  tallyhos  or 
victorias,  and  children  pile  into  wagonettes  when  they  go  on  picnics. 

James  W.  Tufts,  of  Boston,  in  1895  bought  5,000  sandy  acres  from  the 
family  of  Walter  Hines  Page  for  $1  an  acre.  His  early  plans  for  using 
some  of  his  millions  to  build  a  health  resort  did  not  materialize  but  later 
he  established  a  recreational  and  sports  center  here.  The  founder's  son, 
Leonard  Tufts,  further  developed  the  resort. 

Pinehurst,  not  incorporated  as  a  town,  is  a  private  business  enterprise  oper- 
ating under  the  corporate  laws  of  North  Carolina.  A  special  charter  in  191 1 
granted  the  owners  the  right  to  exercise  police  powers.  The  village  regulations 
prohibit  locomotives  from  operating  at  night,  dogs  from  howling  at  night, 
and  roosters  from  crowing. 

The  Village  Chapel  (nonsectarian,  Episcopal  ritual;  Sun.  services  during 
winter  season;  frequent  organ  recitals),  one  block  south  of  Market  Sq.,  is  a 
pale  red  brick  structure  suggestive  of  old  New  England  meetinghouses.  The 
facade  is  marked  by  a  portico  of  four  Corinthian  columns  supporting  a  simple 
pediment.  A  square  tower  in  the  Wren  tradition,  with  a  four-faced  clock, 
diminishes  in  stages  to  a  slim  octagonal  spire  that  rises  high  above  a  back- 
ground of  dense  foliage.  There  are  urns  on  each  set-back  of  the  tower. 
Hobart  Upjohn's  design  for  this  church  (see  architecture)  was  awarded  a 
Diploma  of  Merit  at  the  International  Exhibit  at  Turin,  Italy,  in  1926,  the 
year  of  its  completion. 

The  Woman's  Exchange,  opposite  the  chapel,  occupies  a  log  cabin,  built 
in  1823  and  once  the  kitchen  of  an  early  plantation  house.  Moved  here  to 
serve  as  a  museum,  the  cabin  is  a  clearing  house  for  home  products  of 
Moore  County,  including  needlework  and  antiques. 

The  Pinehurst  Country  Club,  two  blocks  southwest  of  the  chapel,  is  a 
center  of  social  and  sporting  life.  Broad  verandas  and  terraces  overlook  the 
four  golf  courses.  Donald  Ross,  golf  architect  whose  home  is  in  Pinehurst, 
planned  the  courses.  Number  Two  is  used  for  championship  play.  Number 
One  was  designed  especially  for  ladies  and  Number  Four  for  beginners. 


TOUR       8 


(Clarksville,  Va.) — Oxford — Durham;  US  15. 
Virginia  Line — Durham,  47  m. 

Southern  Ry.  parallels  route  between  the  Virginia  Line  and  Durham;  Seaboard  Air  Line 
R.R.  between  Oxford  and  Durham. 
Roadbed  paved  throughout. 
Hotels  at  Oxford  and  Durham. 

Between  the  Virginia  Line  and  Durham,  US  15  traverses  rolling  country- 
side and  elevated  flat  lands  where  tobacco  and  corn  are  produced  on  small 
farms.  The  route  is  marked  by  granite  squares  and  bronze  tablets  every  10 
miles  to  designate  this  as  part  of  the  Jefferson  Davis  Highway. 

US  15  crosses  the  Virginia-North  Carolina  Line,  0  m.,  6  miles  south  of 
Clarksville,  Va.  (see  va.  tour  3). 

STOVALL,  7  m.  (478  alt.,  415  pop.),  is  dependent  on  the  growing  of 
tobacco  and  vegetables. 

Right  from  Stovall  on  an  unpaved  road  to  the  marked  Site  of  the  Home  of  John 
Penn,  4  m.,  a  North  Carolina  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence;  Penn  came 
from  Virginia  in  1774  and  resided  here  until  his  death  in  1788.  He  was  buried  here 
until  1895  when  his  remains  were  moved  to  Guilford  Battleground  (see  tour  /j);  the 
body  of  his  wife,  Susannah  Lyne,  lies  in  the  family  burying  ground. 

At  8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  narrow  concrete  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  Home  of  Col.  William  T.  Gregory  (private),  1  m.  Near 
his  home  Colonel  Gregory  (1868-1933),  an  eccentric  landowner  and  tobacco  planter, 
operated  a  general  store  where  he  gave  away  rather  than  sold  articles. 

At  17  m.  is  the  northern  junction  with  US  158  (see  tour  24a),  which 
unites  with  US  15  between  this  point  and  Oxford. 

OXFORD,  18  m.  (476  alt.,  4,101  pop.),  seat  of  Granville  County,  is  a 
manufacturing  town  and  tobacco  market  where  autumn  sales  are  conducted 
in  nine  large  warehouses.  The  State's  first  storage  warehouse  devoted  solely 
to  aging  cured  leaf  tobacco  was  built  here  in  1866. 

Oxford  was  founded  in  1764  when  Bute  County  was  formed  from  Gran- 
ville (see  tour  24A)  and  the  seat  of  Granville  was  moved  to  Samuel  Benton's 
plantation,  called  Oxford.  Granville  County  had  been  formed  in  1746  and 
named  for  John  Carteret,  Earl  of  Granville,  who  retained  his  domain  when 
the  other  Lords  Proprietors  surrendered  their  charters  to  the  Crown  in  1729. 
The  Oxford  Academy,  authorized  in  181 1  when  the  general  assembly 
empowered  trustees  to  raise  funds  by  means  of  a  lottery,  was  established 

354 


tour  o  355 

in  1817  and  existed  until  1880.  At  the  eastern  city  limits  on  US  158  is  the 
Site  of  Horner  Military  School,  established  in  1851  by  James  Hunter 
Horner  and  moved  to  Charlotte  in  1914. 

Oxford  Orphanage,  College  St.,  occupies  the  site  of  St.  John's  College,  a 
Masonic  seminary  for  male  students  that  existed  between  1858  and  the  War 
between  the  States.  The  orphanage,  opened  in  1873  by  the  Grand  Lodge  of 
Masons  in  North  Carolina,  provides  academic  courses  and  vocational  train- 
ing for  about  400  children.  The  Oxford  Colored  Orphanage,  founded  by 
Negro  Masons  in  North  Carolina,  is  maintained  by  the  State. 

The  Granville  County  Courthouse,  whose  front  portion  was  built  in 
1838,  contains  county  records  from  1786.  At  Capehart  Cleaners,  opposite 
the  courthouse,  is  a  Collection  of  Indian  Relics  found  in  this  section.  In 
the  17th  and  early  18th  centuries,  Granville  County  was  the  home  of  17 
Indian  tribes,  most  powerful  of  whom  were  the  Tuscarora. 

Between  Oxford  and  Creedmoor  the  route  passes  the  homes  of  white  and 
Negro  tenant  farmers  and  traverses  fields  of  tobacco  and  corn. 

At  28  m.,  across  the  railroad  to  the  L.,  is  HESTER  (90  pop.),  a  farm 
village  dominated  by  the  meeting  hall  of  Hester  Grange,  a  farmers  club. 

Right  from  Hester  on  a  sand-clay  road  to  Indian  Grave  Hill,  1  m.,  where  many 
Indian  relics  have  been  found  and  carried  away  by  amateur  archeologists. 

At  32  m.  US  15  skirts  (L)  the  edge  of  CREEDMOOR  (358  alt.,  388 
pop.),  sustained  by  a  small  lumber  mill  and  a  farm  trade. 

Creedmoor  is  at  the  junction  with  US  15A  (see  tour  9). 

In  NORTHSIDE,  38  m.  (56  pop.),  the  highway  spans  the  Neuse  River, 
narrow  and  shallow  in  this  upland  reach. 

DURHAM,  47  m.  (405  alt.,  52,037  pop.)  (see  durham). 

Points  of  Interest:  Durham  Hosiery  Plant,  Liggett  and  Myers  Tobacco  Co.  Plant, 
Erwin  Cotton  Mills,  American  Tobacco  Co.  Plant,  Duke  University,  and  others. 

Durham  is  at  the  junction  with  US  501  (see  tour  10)  and  US  70  (see 
tours  25  and  28). 


TOUR       9 


Creedmoor — Raleigh — Fayetteville — Laurinburg — (Bennettsville,  S.  C);  US 

15A,  15. 

Creedmoor — South  Carolina  Line,  132  m. 

Norfolk  Southern  R.R.  parallels  the  route  between  Raleigh  and  Fayetteville;  Aberdeen  & 

Rockfish  R.R.  between  Fayetteville  and  Raeford;  Laurinburg  &  Southern  R.R.  between 

Raeford  and  Laurinburg. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  cities  and  towns;  tourist  homes,  inns,  and  camps  along  the  highway. 

Between  Creedmoor  and  Laurinburg  US  15A  winds  along  the  eastern 
slopes  of  the  Piedmont  Plateau.  Thick  forests  of  cedar,  holly,  and  stubby- 
leaved  slash  pine  rise  over  growths  of  dogwood  and  redbud  in  the  northern 
portion;  longleai  pine  dominates  the  southern.  Fields  are  planted  with 
tobacco,  cotton,  and  occasionally  vegetables. 

US  15A  branches  south  from  US  15  at  CREEDMOOR,  0.  m.  {see  tour  8). 

Between  9  m.  and  15  m.  is  the  HARRICANE  SECTION,  once  notorious 
for  the  illicit  manufacture  of  corn  liquor  in  stills  concealed  among  the  hills 
and  pine  woods. 

RALEIGH,  24  m.  (363  alt.,  37,379  pop.)  {see  raleigh). 

Points  of  Interest:  State  Capitol,  Christ  Church,  Site  of  the  Birthplace  of  Andrew 
Johnson,  Joel  Lane  House,  N.  C.  State  College  of  Agriculture  and  Engineering,  and 
others. 

Raleigh  is  at  the  junction  with  US  64  {see  tour  26),  US  1  {see  tour  7), 
and  US  70  {see  tour  28). 

South  of  Raleigh  US  15A  passes  through  a  section  that  contains  some  of 
the  most  productive  farming  land  in  North  Carolina.  Peach  orchards  blossom 
along  the  route  in  spring,  and  in  summer  miles  of  cotton  fields  show  their 
delicate  blooms. 

CARALEIGH,  26  m.  (355  alt.,  200  pop.),  is  a  village  built  to  house 
the  employees  of  a  cotton  mill,  since  closed. 

At  27.5  m.  is  the  entrance  (R)  to  CAROLINA  PINES,  a  recreational 
development  {hotel,  clubhouse,  restaurant,  golf  course,  la\e,  tennis  courts, 
riding  stables).  Frogs  are  propagated  here  and  mineral  water  bottled. 

The  219-acre  Raleigh  Municipal  Airport,  28  m.,  a  regular  stop  on  the 
Eastern  Air  Lines  route,  has  three  paved  runways,  a  Weather  Bureau  station, 
and  passenger  accommodations. 

356 


tour  9  357 

At  28.1  m.  a  tablet  imbedded  in  a  boulder  commemorates  the  Ramsgate 
Road.  This  highway  between  Wake  Crossroads,  now  Raleigh,  and  Orange 
County  was  built  by  Gov.  William  Tryon  in  1771  before  his  expedition 
against  the  Regulators  (see  tour  25).  The  route,  so  named  for  the  old 
Ramsgate  Road  in  England  over  which  pilgrims  to  Canterbury  journeyed 
centuries  ago,  was  nicknamed  Ramcat  or  Rhamkatte  in  derision  of  Tryon. 

FUQUAY  SPRINGS,  43  m.  (963  pop.),  a  tobacco-market  town,  was  once 
a  health  resort.  It  has  a  mineral  spring  covered  by  a  springhouse  in  a  wooded 
park. 

At  55  m.  is  the  northern  junction  with  US  421  (see  tour  29). 

The  highway  crosses  the  deep  Cape  Fear  River  at  55.5  m. 

LILLINGTON,  56  m.  (752  pop.),  the  seat  of  agricultural  Harnett 
County,  was  named  for  Revolutionary  Col.  Alexander  Lillington  (see  tour 
29). 

At  the  McKinnon  House  (R),  75  m.,  during  the  War  between  the  States, 
Federal  soldiers  hanged  McKinnon  for  refusing  to  reveal  where  he  had 
hidden  his  share  of  the  money  distributed  by  directors  of  the  local  banks 
when  Union  troops  were  approaching.  After  the  soldiers  had  left,  a  slave 
cut  down  and  revived  his  master. 

At  76  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  unpaved  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  Carvers  Falls,  0.5  m.  Here  the  Cape  Fear  River  is  60  feet  wide 
and  drops  18  feet.  The  falls  serve  as  shower  baths  for  youngsters  who  use  the  thick 
forest  and  ravine  for  bathhouses. 

Tokay  Vineyard,  80  m.,  once  the  site  of  a  large  winery,  was  replanted 
in  1934  after  a  long  interval  of  neglect. 

The  Parapet,  82  m.,  is  the  name  given  to  ruins  of  breastworks  thrown 
up  during  the  War  between  the  States  by  Gen.  Joseph  E.  Johnston's  army 
in  anticipation  of  a  Federal  attack  on  Fayette ville. 

FAYETTEVILLE,  83  m.  (107  alt.,  13,049  pop.)  (see  fayetteville)  . 

Points  of  Interest:  Market  House,  First  Presbyterian  Church,  Cool  Spring,  Site  of 
Cross  Creek,  Site  of  Flora  Macdonald's  House,  and  others. 

Fayetteville  is  at  the  junction  with  US  301  and  State  28  (see  tour  3) 
and  with  State  24  (see  tour  3A). 

Southwest  of  Fayetteville  whites  and  Negroes  of  all  ages  work  in  the 
cotton  and  tobacco  fields  along  the  road.  Occasionally  in  late  summer,  when 
immediate  harvest  is  necessary  to  prevent  cotton  rotting  on  the  stalks,  girls 
and  women  incongruously  dressed  in  beach  pajamas  or  shorts  work  in  the 
fields. 

The  Duncan  Shaw  House,  92.5  m.,  built  in  i860,  is  a  plantation  dwelling 
with  a  two-story  front  porch  supported  by  columns  made  to  simulate  stone. 
Beams  and  clapboards  are  pegged  together. 


358  TOURS 

LAKE  RIM,  93  m.,  has  a  240-acre  STATE  FISH  HATCHERY  and 
GAME  FARM,  established  in  1924.  The  hatchery  propagates  large-mouthed 
black  bass,  blue  bream,  and  crappie;  the  game  farm,  quail,  pheasants,  and 
wild  turkeys.  Demonstration  and  experimental  areas  are  planted  with  Asiatic 
chestnuts,  pines,  and  black  locusts. 

RAEFORD,  105  m.  (262  alt.,  1,303  pop.),  seat  of  Hoke  County,  is  a 
cotton-manufacturing  town. 

At  Raeford  is  the  junction  with  paved  State  211. 

1.  Left  from  Raeford  on  State  211  to  the  Antioch  Presbyterian  Church  (L),  at  a 
bend  in  the  road,  6.9  m.  This  weatherboarded  building  painted  white  is  six  bays 
long.  Above  the  entrance  doors  are  four  rectangular  windows,  with  a  quatrefoil  opening 
in  the  gable.  Galleries  run  around  three  sides  of  the  interior.  The  church  was  built 
about  1883  near  the  site  of  an  older  building  whose  pews  were  used  by  Union  soldiers 
to  build  a  bridge  over  Raft  Swamp  River.  In  the  church  cemetery  are  the  graves  of 
early  Scottish  settlers  including  that  of  the  Rev.  John  Mclntyre  (1750-1852),  who  came 
to  America  in  1791,  was  ordained  in  1809,  and  preached  in  both  English  and  Gaelic 
at  several  churches  in  this  area.  He  was  one  of  the  organizers  of  the  Fayetteville 
Presbytery  in  1813  and  the  Synod  of  North  Carolina  at  Alamance  Church  the  same  year. 
Local  legend  says  he  preached  a  sermon  on  his  100th  birthday. 

Right  from  Antioch  Church  2  m.  on  a  sand-clay  road  to  a  granite  marker,  indicating 
the  Site  of  the  Battle  of  McFall  Mill  or  Raft  Swamp,  Sept.  1,  1781.  Less  than 
100  Whig  patriots  under  Colonel  Wade  met  a  much  larger  number  of  Tories  under 
Colonels  Ray,  McDougal,  David  Fanning,  and  "Sailor"  Hector  McNeill.  The  Con- 
tinentals were  defeated  and  pursued  by  Fanning,  who  killed  19  Whigs  and  captured 
54  prisoners.  The  Tory  loss  was  negligible. 

On  Oct.  15,  1 78 1,  McNeill,  encamped  on  the  edge  of  the  swamp,  heard  that  Ruther- 
ford was  resting  at  McFall  Mill,  and  proceeded  to  take  up  the  causeway.  When  Whig 
dragoons  under  Major  Graham  launched  a  surprise  attack  the  Tories  fled,  their  horses 
floundering  through  the  water;  many  were  overtaken  and  killed.  This  marked  the  end 
of  armed  Tory  opposition  in  this  section. 

At  RED  SPRINGS,  12  m.  (204  alt.,  1,300  pop.),  is  a  medicinal  spring  whose  sulphur 
water  is  colored  by  a  red  pigment.  Chief  industrial  plants  are  silk,  rayon,  and  lumber 
mills.  The  population  is  composed  of  three  racial  groups,  exemplified  by  separate  doors 
at  the  local  theater:  for  whites,  for  Robeson  County  Indians,  and  for  Negroes. 

The  town  is  built  on  land  granted  to  "Sailor"  Hector  McNeill  in  1775;  a  large 
portion  of  it  is  still  owned  by  his  descendants.  By  1850  this  was  a  recognizable  community 
known  as  Dora,  the  general  assembly  authorizing  the  change  of  name  to  Red  Springs 
in  1885. 

Flora  Macdonald  College,  a  Presbyterian  school  for  girls,  started  as  Floral  College 
(see  tour  jia).  In  1914  the  name  was  changed  to  honor  Flora  Macdonald,  the  Scottish- 
American  heroine  who  helped  Bonnie  Prince  Charlie  escape  during  the  last  Stuart 
uprising  in  Scotland  (see  fayetteville).  Although  some  historians  maintain  that 
none  of  Flora's  children  were  buried  in  America,  memorial  services  were  held  Apr.  28, 
1937,  for  two  children  supposedly  hers,  whose  remains  were  moved  from  an  isolated 
spot  in  Montgomery  County  to  the  college  campus.  The  college  owns  a  collection  of 
paintings,  mostly  modern  American. 

Flora  Macdonald  College  confers  A.B.  and  B.S.  degrees.  Seven  modern  brick  buildings 
occupy  a  gardened  campus,  shaded  by  longleaf  pines,  particularly  lovely  when  the 
azaleas  bloom  in  April. 

2.  Right  from  Raeford  on  State  211  is  TIMBERLAND,  4  m.,  (50  pop.),  an  agricultural 
village  and  winter  resort.  SANATORIUM,  10  m.  (57  pop.),  is  a  small  village  in  which 
is  the  North  Carolina  Sanatorium  for  the  Treatment  of  Tuberculosis,  established 
in  1907  and  maintained  by  the  State  since  1909.  A  tablet  at  the  entrance  to  the  main 
building  honors  the  founder  and  first  superintendent,  Dr.  James  E.  Brooks.  The  modern 


tour  9  359 

$3,000,000  plant  accommodates  550  resident  patients.  There  is  a  separate  Negro  division. 
The  institution  issues  a  monthly  paper,  the  Sanatorium  Sun. 

Across  a  ravine  about  200  yards  at  108.6  m.  is  Bethel  Presbyterian 
Church,  a  weatherboarded,  white-painted  building  erected  in  1855.  The 
porch  gable  is  supported  by  four  slender  columns  and  an  octagonal  domed 
cupola  surmounts  the  center  of  the  roof.  The  church  society  was  organized 
about  1780.  In  the  church  Bible  are  entries  reputedly  indited  by  General 
Sherman  but  probably  written  by  some  wag  in  the  Federal  Army: 

"Mr.  McNeill  will  please  preach  a  sermon  on  the  illusions  of  pleasure  and 
hope. 

"Mr.  McNeill  will  please  prove  the  absurdity  of  the  Universalist  doctrine. 

"Mr.  McNeill  will  please  preach  a  sermon  from  the  First  Epistle  of  John, 
4  Chapter. 

"Mr.  McNeill  will  please  pray  for  Old  Abe. 

"By  order  of  W.  T.  Sherman,  Major  Genl.  Comd.  U.  S.  Forces." 

WAGRAM,  115  m.  (309  pop.),  on  the  edge  of  the  Sandhills,  is  a  shipping 
point  for  peaches. 

Right  from  Wagram  on  a  graveled  road  to  the  Site  of  the  Old  Spring  Hill  Baptist 
Church,  0.8  m.  In  the  church  cemetery  is  the  Grave  of  John  Charles  McNeill  (1874- 
1907),  author  of  Songs  Merry  and  Sad,  and  Lyrics  from  Cotton  Land. 

Near  the  cemetery  is  the  small  brick  Hexagon  House,  in  the  1860's  a  meeting  place 
of  the  Richmond  County  Temperance  and  Literary  Society.  The  hexagonal  building  has 
a  window  on  each  side  and  a  door  facing  the  road.  On  the  hip  roof  is  a  wooden 
goblet,  turned  upside  down. 

At  121.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  dirt  Wire  Rd.,  so  named  when  a 
telegraph  line  was  run  beside  the  road;  it  was  part  of  the  ante-bellum  stage 
route  between  Cheraw,  S.  C,  and  Fayetteville. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  Laurel  Hill  Church  (R)  2.6  m.,  a  weatherboarded  build- 
ing with  an  octagonal  cupola  and  two  doors  in  the  front  gable  end.  One  of  General 
Sherman's  buglers  carved  his  name  in  the  belfry  in  1865. 

In  the  graveyard  is  buried  Duncan  McFarland,  Congressman  (1805-7)  and  wealthy 
landowner.  Tradition  relates  that  he  once  rode  horseback  all  the  way  to  Washington, 
but  slaves  had  to  cut  a  bridle  path  to  the  road  before  he  could  set  out  on  his  journey. 

LAURINBURG,  125  m.  (227  alt.,  3,312  pop.),  seat  of  Scotland  County, 
was  founded  in  the  1870's.  The  county  was  formed  from  Richmond  County 
in  1899  and  named  for  the  homeland  of  its  first  settlers. 

The  Scotland  County  Courthouse  (1901-2),  Church  St.,  is  a  square 
building  with  a  Corinthian  portico.  In  the  yard  is  the  William  Graham 
Quakenbush  Monument,  an  obelisk  on  a  granite  base.  Quakenbush  was 
principal  of  the  Laurinburg  High  School  (1879-1900).  The  Confederate 
Monument  is  a  30-foot  column  supporting  the  figure  of  a  soldier. 

At  McDougald's  Funeral  Home,  half  a  block  south  of  the  courthouse, 
hangs  the  Mummy  of  Ferrenzo  Concepio,  an  itinerant  Italian  musician 
who  was  murdered  with  a  tent  stake  at  Laurinburg  in  1909.  The  undertaker 
embalmed  the  body  but  has  waited  in  vain  for  relatives  or  friends  to  claim  it. 

The  privately  owned  Laurinburg  Industrial  Institute,  occupying  sev- 


360  TOURS 

eral  brick  buildings,  offers  its  800  Negro  students  academic  and  vocational 
training. 

Laurinburg  is  at  the  junction  with  US  74  (see  tour  31a),  and  US  15,  now 
the  route. 

At  126  m.  is  the  southern  junction  with  paved  US  501. 

Left  on  US  501  to  Stewartsville  Cemetery,  3  m.,  an  old  Scotch  burying  ground. 
Many  of  the  monuments  are  ornamented  with  thistles. 

Buried  here  is  the  Rev.  Colin  Lindsay,  born  in  Scotland,  according  to  the  story, 
several  years  after  the  supposed  death  of  his  mother.  After  Mrs.  Lindsay  had  apparently 
died,  she  was  interred  in  the  family  vault.  Roused  by  grave  robbers  seeking  valuables, 
she  lived  to  regain  her  full  health  and  some  years  later  to  become  the  mother  of  Colin. 
He  came  to  America  in  1792,  and  shortly  afterward  settled  in  this  region. 

At  132  m.  US  15  crosses  the  South  Carolina  Line,  10  miles  north  of 
Bennettsville,  S.  C.  (see  s.  c.  tour  3). 


TOUR       I    O 


(South  Boston,  Va.) — Roxboro — Durham — Junction  with  US   i;   US  501. 
Virginia  Line — Junction  with  US  1,  85  m. 

Norfolk  &  Western   Ry.  parallels    the   route  between  the  Virginia   Line   and  Durham. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  cities  and  towns;  tourist  homes  and  camps  along  the  route. 

Between  the  Virginia  Line  and  Durham  US  501  crosses  generally  level 
terrain;  between  Durham  and  Pittsboro  the  country  is  broken  by  ridges 
and  ravines  utilized  for  woodland  and  pasture.  Bordering  the  highway  are 
fields  of  tobacco  and  corn  interspersed  with  pine  and  oak  forests. 

US  501  crosses  the  Virginia-North  Carolina  Line,  0  m.,  14  miles  south 
of  South  Boston,  Va.  {see  va.  tour  //). 

ROXBORO,  13  m.  (671  alt.,  3,657  pop.),  a  cotton-manufacturing  and 
tobacco-marketing  center,  is  named  for  Roxburgh  in  Scotland;  it  is  the  seat 
of  Person  County,  formed  in  1791  and  named  for  Revolutionary  Gen. 
Thomas  Person  {see  tour  24a  and  chapel  hill).  This  region  is  an  exten- 
sion of  the  Virginia  Blue  Wing  copper  district,  containing  novaculite,  a 
quartz  used  for  whetstones;  silver,  and  in  the  western  part,  granite  valuable 
for  building. 

Manufactured  products  include  toweling,  upholstery  and  drapery  fabrics. 
One  cotton  mill  has  a  yearly  output  of  60  million  pounds  of  yarn. 

The  town  was  founded  when  the  temporary  seat  of  Person  County  was 
moved  here  from  Payne's  Tavern  and  a  courthouse  was  erected  between 
two  springs.  John  R.  Green,  a  Roxboro  native,  originated  Bull  Durham 
tobacco  {see  Durham).  William  W.  Kitchin,  Governor  of  North  Caro- 
lina (1909-13),  was  a  native  of  Person  County. 

The  white  stone,  box-shaped  Person  County  Courthouse  was  built  in 
1930.  On  the  lawn  is  a  square  granite  block  inscribed  with  the  names  of  the 
county's  Confederate  soldiers,  and  honoring  Capt.  E.  Fletcher  Satterfield 
(1837-63),  killed  at  Gettysburg. 

Roxboro  is  at  the  junction  with  US  158  {see  tour  24a). 

South  from  Roxboro  on  the  sand-clay  Hurdles  Mill  Rd.,  which  was  the  Colonial  rou'e 
between  Virginia  and  Hillsboro,  to  the  Site  of  Payne's  Tavern,  4  m.  Local  tradition 
asserts  that  this  was  the  birthplace  of  Dolly  Payne  Madison,  wife  of  President  James 
Madison,  though  records  of  New  Garden  Meetinghouse  {see  tour  25)  fix  her  birthplace 
there.  A  farmhouse  occupies  the  tavern  site,  but  there  are  traces  of  a  brick  wall  that  once 
surrounded  the  tavern.  At  this  inn — referred  to  as  Payne's  "onery,"  presumably  a  cor- 
ruption of  "ordinary" — Cornwallis   passed   a  night  in   1781.   After   the  death   in  Phila- 

361 


362  TOURS 

delphia  in  1793  of  her  first  husband,  John  Todd,  and  one  of  her  two  children,  Dolly 
is  said  to  have  returned  here  with  her  small  son  while  James  Madison  visited  at  the 
Taylor  home  near  the  tavern. 

At  27  m.  US  501  passes  (L)  the  edge  of  Rougemont  (275  pop.),  whose 
name  (Fr.,  red  mountain)  was  suggested  by  the  color  of  the  soil  on  nearby 
Riggs  Mountain. 

Quail  Roost  Farm  (open),  29  m.  (R),  is  a  model  1,500-acre  dairy  farm 
stocked  with  purebred  Guernseys. 

At  30  m.,  beside  the  junction  with  a  paved  road,  is  a  Memorial  Tablet 
to  Willie  (Wiley)  Person  Mangum,  president  of  the  U.S.  Senate  (1842-45). 

Left  on  this  road  to  4-mile-long  LAKE  MICHIE,  3  m.,  Durham  reservoir.  Shrubs, 
holly  trees,  and  wild  flowers  line  the  shore.  This  territory,  in  which  many  Indian  relics 
have  been  found,  was  the  home  of  the  Occoneechee,  Eno,  and  Adshusheer  Indians 
until  about  1750.  At  7  m.  on  the  paved  road  is  the  junction  with  a  narrow,  unimproved 
road  (impassable  in  wet  weather);  L.  4  m.  on  this  road  to  the  Grave  of  Willie  P. 
Mangum,  marked  by  a  simple,  crumbling  headstone. 

An  arrowhead  (R)  35  m.,  bearing  a  bronze  tablet,  points  out  part  of  the 
Indian  Trading  Path.  A  natural  outcropping  of  rock  nearby  is  shaped  like 
a  horseshoe.  Here,  tradition  says,  an  Indian  chief  came  frequently  to  invoke 
the  assistance  of  the  war  god  for  his  tribe. 

At  39  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  marked  unpaved  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  Duke  Homestead  (open  3-5  p.m.  Sun.),  1  m.,  a  small 
white  clapboarded  dwelling  built  in  1851  by  Washington  Duke,  founder  of  the  Duke 
tobacco  family  (see  Durham).  The  walls  and  floors  are  of  hand-hewn  pine.  The 
house  has  been  restored,  and  the  original  furniture,  with  supplementary  pieces  also  used 
in  the  1860's,  has  been  placed  in  the  rooms. 

At  BRAGGTOWN,  40  m.,  is  the  junction  with  a  paved  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  Fairntosh  Plantation  (grounds  and  out-buildings  open),  7  m. 
The  square,  green-shuttered  manor  house,  of  white  clapboards  and  fronted  by  a  broad 
porch,  was  built  in  1802  by  Duncan  Cameron,  who  defended  North  Carolina  landowners 
when  the  heirs  of  Lord  Granville  sued  for  recovery  of  property  confiscated  by  the  State 
at  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution.  The  house  contains  much  of  the  original  furniture. 
In  the  carriage  house  is  the  Cameron  carriage  and  nearby  are  the  old  red  brick  kitchen, 
the  white-painted  law  office  of  the  master,  a  row  of  slave  cabins,  and  a  schoolhouse. 
A  gray  frame  chapel  containing  a  hand-made  walnut  altar  and  pews  is  lighted  by  a 
cluster  of  stained-glass  windows. 

DURHAM,  43  m.  (405  alt.,  52,037  pop.)  (see  Durham). 

Points  of  Interest:  Durham  Hosiery  Co.  Plant,  Liggett  &  Myers  Tobacco  Co.  Plant, 
Erwin  Cotton  Mills,  American  Tobacco  Co.  Plant,  Duke  University,  and  others. 

Durham  is  at  the  junction  with  US  15  (see  tour  8)  and  US  70  (see  tours 
25  and  28). 

Between  50  m.  and  54  m.  US  501  traverses  a  shallow  valley  called  the 
Triassic  Sea  by  geologists. 


TOUR     10  363 

At  52  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  Mount  Moriah  Church  Rd. 

Right  on  this  road  300  yds.  to  the  Fossil  Forest,  fields  from  which  petrified  wood  has 
been  unearthed. 

CHAPEL  HILL,  55  m.  (501  alt.  2,699  P°P-)  (see  chapel  hill). 

Points  of  Interest:  Old  East,  University  Library,  Kenan  Stadium,  Playmakers  Theater, 
Coker  Arboretum,  Widow  Puckett  House,  Gimghoul  Castle,  and  others. 

Left  from  Chapel  Hill  on  paved  State  54  to  the  junction  with  paved  State  55,  6  m. ; 
R.  4  m.  on  State  55  to  the  O'Kelly  Church,  a  two-story  white  clapboarded  structure 
with  a  small  steeple.  Here  a  monument  marks  the  grave  of  James  O'Kelly  (1757-1826), 
founder  of  the  O'Kellite  sect.  O'Kelly  objected  to  the  episcopal  powers  of  Bishops 
Coke  and  Asbury  and,  in  1792,  followed  by  a  group  of  dissenting  ministers,  broke  away 
from  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church.  This  schism  was  first  known  as  the  Republican 
Methodist  but  the  name  was  later  changed  to  the  Christian  Church,  and  in  1932  merged 
to  become  the  Congregationalist-Christian  Church. 

PITTSBORO,  72  m.  (409  alt.,  675  pop.),  seat  of  Chatham  County,  is  the 
market  town  for  an  agricultural  region  and  has  a  plant  that  manufactures 
silk  garment  labels.  The  county  was  named  for  the  Earl  of  Chatham  and 
the  town  for  his  son,  William  Pitt,  champion  of  Colonial  rights  in  the 
British  Parliament.  The  town  was  setded  in  1771  by  planters  of  the  Cape 
Fear  region,  attracted  by  its  pleasant  summer  climate. 

Chatham  County  Courthouse  (1882),  is  a  three-story  square  structure 
with  a  raised  basement,  a  pedimented  portico,  and  red-painted  brick  walls 
having  stuccoed  white  columns  and  pilasters.  The  building  is  topped  with 
a  tower  and  octagonal,  domed  belfry.  It  occupies  a  central  square  from 
which  branch  Pittsboro's  old  streets.  On  July  16,  1781,  when  Pittsboro  was 
still  called  Chatham  Courthouse,  David  Fanning  with  a  party  of  Tories 
raided  the  town  while  a  court  martial  was  in  progress,  capturing  44  persons. 
Fanning  terrorized  a  wide  area  (see  tours  ii,  zj,  26b,  and  32).  Cornwallis 
spent  the  night  at  Chatham  Courthouse  in  the  course  of  his  march  to 
Wilmington  after  the  Battle  of  Guilford  Courthouse. 

The  Yellow  House  (private),  on  the  south  side  of  the  square,  was  moved 
from  the  west  side.  The  right  end  of  the  house,  which  has  weathered  clap- 
boards and  sagging  sills,  survives  from  the  house  built  by  Patrick  St.  Law- 
rence, early  town  commissioner  and  trustee  of  Pittsborough  Academy,  which 
was  so  luxurious  that  it  bankrupted  both  St.  Lawrence  and  his  contractor. 
A  device  for  fastening  folding  doors  to  the  ceiling  allowed  the  entire  lower 
floor  to  be  thrown  into  a  ballroom. 

The  Waddell  House  (private),  Hillsboro  St.,  a  two-story  yellow  frame 
house  with  red  blinds  and  red  brick  end  chimneys,  was  the  birthplace  of 
Capt.  James  Iredell  Waddell  (1824-86),  commander  of  the  Confederate 
cruiser,  Shenandoah,  which  carried  the  only  Confederate  flag  that  ever  went 
around  the  world.  After  the  collapse  of  the  Confederacy,  Waddell,  then  in 
the  Pacific,  sailed  around  Cape  Horn  to  England  where  he  remained  until 
the  members  of  his  crew  were  granted  amnesty. 

St.  Bartholomew's  Episcopal  Church  (1833),  Salisbury  St.,  is  a  small 
rectangular  building,  its  entrance  marked  by  a  low  square  tower  and  steeple 


364  TOURS 

on  the  right  of  the  facade.  A  veneer  of  red  brick  was  applied  (1938)  over 
the  original  clapboard  construction.  The  congregation  was  organized  in 
Revolutionary  days.  Within  the  building,  finished  in  stained  pine,  are  a 
slave  gallery  and  furnishings  carved  from  native  walnut  by  one  of  the  rectors, 
the  Rev.  R.  B.  Sutton.  The  communion  service  was  made  of  family  silver 
given  by  communicants.  In  the  old  graveyard  is  the  Crypt  of  John  Owen, 
Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1828-30). 

The  Pittsborough  Scientific  Academy  Building  {private),  a  gabled 
white  frame  structure  of  one  room,  is  now  incorporated  into  a  residence. 
Erected  in  1886,  it  once  housed  the  academy,  established  by  legislative  act 
in  1787.  William  Bingham  was  its  first  principal  and  among  its  pupils  were 
John  Owen  and  Charles  Manly,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1849-51). 

The  village  of  LOCKVILLE,  85  m.,  is  at  the  junction  with  US  1  (see 
tour  yb). 


TOUR       II 


(Danville,  Va.) — Yanceyville — Hillsboro — Chapel  Hill;  State  14. 
Virginia  Line — Chapel  Hill,  57  m. 

Southern  Ry.  intersects  the  route  at  Hillsboro. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  and  boarding  houses  in  towns. 

This  route  traverses  an  agricultural  region  of  low,  rounded  hills,  the  "up- 
country"  to  which  the  early  planters  of  Tidewater  Carolina  took  their  house- 
holds in  summer.  The  section  is  rich  in  history  and  legends  of  Colonial, 
Revolutionary,  and  ante-bellum  days. 

State  14,  a  continuation  of  Va.  86,  crosses  the  North  Carolina  Line  in 
DOWDY  TOWN,  0  m.,  3  miles  south  of  Danville,  Va.  (see  va.  tour  4). 
South  of  this  point  the  road  widens  and  runs  through  a  wooded  countryside 
dominated  by  pine,  oak,  walnut,  sycamore,  and  poplar.  The  bottom  lands 
are  planted  with  tobacco,  cotton,  and  corn. 

Bright-leaf  tobacco  was  developed  on  the  Slade  brothers  farm  on  Rattle- 
snake Branch  near  PURLEY,  10  m.  (600  alt.,  75  pop.).  Here  a  piece  of 
gray  sandy  loam  unsuited  to  other  crops  was  planted  with  tobacco.  It  pro- 
duced a  leaf  lighter  in  color,  sweeter,  and  finer  in  texture,  which 
proved  highly  suitable  for  smoking  mixtures,  cigarettes,  and  plug-tobacco 
wrappers. 

Bright-leaf  culture  spread  from  this  section,  known  as  the  Old  Bright 
Belt,  to  other  counties  having  the  same  type  of  soil.  Barns  used  for  curing 
are  usually  built  of  hand-hewn  logs  chinked  with  red  clay,  and  roofed  with 
hand-riven  shingles.  Fireboxes,  fed  from  the  outside  of  the  building,  have 
metal  flues  that  extend  to  the  far  side  of  the  barn  and  back  to  an  exit  above 
the  firebox. 

During  the  four  days  required  for  curing  a  barn  full  of  tobacco  an 
attendant  must  keep  up  the  fires  and  guard  against  accidents.  Sometimes, 
the  process  becomes  a  social  occasion  to  which  neighbors  are  invited.  In 
late  summer  they  feast  on  watermelons  and  roasted  corn;  when  nights  grow 
colder  a  hot  stew  or  other  food  is  served  and  young  and  old  gather  around 
the  fire  to  sing  familiar  hymns  and  ballads. 

At  10  m.  is  the  northern  junction  with  US  158  (see  tour  24b). 

In  YANCEYVILLE,  12  m.  (619  alt.,  500  pop.),  seat  of  Caswell  County, 
people  arise  early,  and  open  their  stores  on  the  courthouse  square  before 
breakfast,  but  close  them  for  midday  dinner.  Ample  time  remains  for  dis- 

365 


366  TOURS 

cussing  the  news  under  the  trees  in  front  of  the  brick  courthouse,  which  was 
erected  soon  after  Person  County  was  cut  off  from  Caswell  in  1791. 

Until  1 8 10  the  community  was  known  as  Caswell  County  Courthouse,  for 
Richard  Caswell,  first  constitutional  Governor  (see  tours  2  and  28).  When 
incorporated  the  town  was  named  for  Bartlett  Yancey  (1785-1828),  a  na- 
tive of  Caswell  County  who  served  four  years  in  Congress.  He  was  gradu- 
ated from  the  University  of  North  Carolina  despite  his  mother's  protests 
that  she  "had  never  known  a  young  man  to  enter  that  institution  who  was 
ever  of  any  account  afterwards."  Except  when  an  uncle  lent  him  a  horse, 
he  walked  the  40  miles  to  Chapel  Hill.  Later  he  studied  law  under  Judge 
Archibald  Murphey,  and  helped  create  the  educational  fund  that  was  the 
beginning  of  the  public  school  system  of  the  State. 

For  half  a  century  Yanceyville  was  an  important  town  but  it  was  handi- 
capped by  lack  of  transportation  facilities.  Laurence  Stallings,  co-author  of 
What  Price  Glory?  once  lived  here. 

Caswell  County,  like  Alamance  and  Orange  with  a  population  pre- 
dominantly Negro,  was  visited  by  carpetbaggers  and  was  the  scene  of  con- 
siderable Ku  Klux  Klan  activity  during  the  Reconstruction  period.  The 
slaying  of  carpetbagger  John  W.  Stephens  at  Yanceyville  in  1870  by  mem- 
bers of  the  Klan  resulted  in  a  reign  of  terror  and  finally  in  the  impeachment 
of  Gov.  William  Holden  (see  history).  When  Capt.  John  G.  Lea  (see  tour 
24b),  former  Klan  leader,  died  in  1935,  he  left  a  sworn  statement  relating 
that  "Chicken"  Stephens  was  tried  in  absentia  by  a  Klansmen's  jury  and 
sentenced  to  die  for  the  burning  of  buildings  and  the  destruction  of  crops. 
Lured  to  a  purported  conference  in  the  courthouse,  Stephens  was  disarmed 
and  stabbed  to  death. 

Martial  law  followed;  Colonel  Kirk  and  his  regiment  of  Tennesseans  took 
charge.  Prominent  men,  including  Colonel  Lea,  were  arrested.  However, 
it  was  never  proved  who  killed  Stephens  nor  even  that  there  was  a  Klan 
in  Caswell  until  Colonel  Lea's  death.  The  Negroes,  frightened  by  the 
mysterious  and  unpunished  slaying,  ceased  their  political  activity.  Klan 
records  show  that  besides  the  Stephens  case,  in  Caswell  County  two 
white  men  and  six  Negroes  were  whipped,  a  Negro  wounded,  and  another 
killed. 

At  13  m.  is  the  junction  with  paved  State  62. 

Left  on  State  62  is  MILTON,  12  m.  (314  pop.),  founded  in  1728  and  long  noted 
for  its  horse  races.  It  was  the  social  and  trade  center  of  this  tobacco-  and  corn-growing 
section  when  tobacco  was  brought  by  flatboats  up  the  Dan  River.  Early  citizens  refused 
for  a  time  to  let  a  railroad  run  through  the  town  lest  the  noise  demoralize  the  slaves 
and  frighten  the  horses.  Many  of  the  public  records  were  destroyed  during  the  Revolution 
when  Cornwallis  and  his  troops  were  pursuing  General  Greene.  A  few  ante-bellum  houses 
remain  on  the  elm-shaded  streets. 

An  Apothecary  Shop  is  identified  by  glass  jars  of  colored  liquids  in  the  window.  A 
"sody  water"  fountain  installed  in  the  1890's  has  never  been  popular.  Hitching  posts 
remain  from  horse  and  buggy   days  and  benches  still  line   the  street  in  front  of  stores. 

In  the  Presbyterian  Church  are  pews  which,  according  to  tradition,  were  made 
and  presented  by  Tom  Day,  a  freed  mulatto,  who  made  furniture  still  prized  in  the 
Carolinas  and  Virginia. 


TOUR     II  367 

PROSPECT  HILL,  29  m.  (714  alt.,  100  pop.),  a  farming  village,  was 
settled  shortly  after  the  Revolutionary  War. 

Left  from  Prospect  Hill  on  unpaved  State  144  to  Bushy  Fork  Crossroads,  7  m.;  R. 
2  m.  on  an  unpaved  road  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road  at  a  white  house;  R.  1.5  m., 
on  the  dirt  road  to  Union  Grove.  Baptist  Church,  built  by  Negroes  in  1893.  Three 
stone  gateways  each  have  granite  tablets  inscribed  with  names  of  four  families  of  the 
congregation  symbolical  of  the  12  tribes  of  Israel.  The  church  bell,  mounted  on  a  little 
hill,  can  be  heard  for  10  miles.  In  a  clear  spring  are  white  pebbles  each  placed  by  a 
church  member.  The  leader  of  a  church-owned  flock  of  chickens,  a  pet  rooster  named 
for  the  Apostle  Paul,  lies  buried  beneath  a  marker  inscribed:  "PAUL,  Killed  Nov.  10, 
1933,  Aged  10  years." 

At  40  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  sand-clay  Caldwell  Rd. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  junction  with  a  side  road,  1  m.  (opposite  a  two-story  frame 
dwelling);  R.  1.5  m,  on  this  road  to  Tyaquin,  site  of  the  home  of  Thomas  Burke 
(1747-83),  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1781-82).  He  named  the  estate  for  his  family's 
seat  in  Ireland,  though  he  had  emigrated  to  America  because  of  a  family  quarrel.  Here 
Burke  retired  at  the  expiration  of  his  term  as  Governor.  His  grave,  in  a  grove  on  the 
plantation,  is  marked  by  a  heap  of  stones. 

At  41  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  lane. 

Left  on  the  lane  a  short  distance  to  the  Kirkland  Place,  also  called  Ayrmount 
{private),  on  land  granted  to  William  Few  in  1763.  The  two-story  building  of  brick 
laid  in  Flemish  bond  is  three  bays  wide,  with  flanking  one-story,  two-bay  wings.  The 
end  chimneys  are  flush  with  the  wall.  William  Few,  father  of  William  Few,  Jr.,  the 
autobiographer,  and  of  James  Few,  the  Regulator,  operated  a  tavern  here  and  ran 
a  mill  on  the  Eno  River.  James  Few  was  hanged  from  a  tree  on  the  battlefield 
immediately  after  the  Alamance  engagement  {see  tour  25). 

HILLSBORO,  42  m.  (543  alt.,  1,232  pop.),  seat  of  Orange  County,  is  in 
the  fertile  valley  of  the  Eno  River,  just  east  of  the  low-lying  Occoneechee 
Mountains.  The  Haw,  Eno,  and  Occoneechee  Indians  lived  here  and  left 
many  relics  and  legends  (see  tour  25).  The  factories  in  this  little  industrial 
village  contrast  with  weathered  old  houses  and  massive  trees. 

Hillsboro's  manufactures  include  cedar  chests,  oil,  flour,  timber  products, 
cotton,  and  rayon.  Nearby  deposits  of  granite,  sandstone,  and  other  minerals 
are  a  commercial  asset.  Much  of  the  stone  used  in  the  Duke  University  build- 
ings {see  Durham)  was  quarried  2  miles  to  the  north. 

Almost  the  entire  white  population  is  descended  from  the  Scotch-Irish, 
Welsh,  English,  and  Germans  who  took  up  land  in  the  Earl  of  Granville's 
territory.  When  the  town  was  platted  in  1754  by  William  Churton,  Gran- 
ville's surveyor,  it  was  called  Orange  as  was  the  county.  Later  it  was  named 
Corbinton  for  Francis  Corbin  {see  edenton),  but  in  1759  it  was  incorporated 
as  Childsboro  for  the  attorney  general.  In  1766  Governor  Try  on  named  it 
Hillsborough  in  honor  of  the  Earl  of  Hillsborough,  kinsman  of  Lady  Tryon 
and  Secretary  of  State  for  the  Colonies.  Planters  from  the  low  country, 
including  Governors  Tryon  and  Martin,  seeking  refuge  from  the  heat 
and  mosquitoes,  brought  their  families  to  Hillsboro,  making  it  a  gay  summer 
capital. 

As  the  court  town  and  county  seat  it  became  the  center  of  Regulator  dis- 
turbances {see  tour  25).  On  Sept.  24,  1768,  Regulators  took  possession  of 
the  town,  and  for  two  days  conducted  mock  courts.  They  plundered  and 


368  TOURS 

burned  the  homes  of  officials,  many  of  whom  fled.  After  their  defeat  May  16, 
1771,  at  the  Battle  of  Alamance  (see  tour  25),  six  of  their  leaders  were 
hanged  here. 

The  Provincial  Congress  met  at  Hillsboro  August  1775,  as  did  the  general 
assemblies  in  1778,  1780,  1783,  and  1784.  During  the  Revolution  the  town 
served  as  a  concentration  point.  Before  the  Battle  of  Guilford  Courthouse 
(see  tour  73)  Cornwallis  occupied  the  town  (Feb.  20-25,  I7^1)  anQl  invited 
all  loyalists  to  join  him.  He  paved  the  muddy  main  streets  with  great  cobble- 
stones, part  of  which  remained  until   1909. 

On  Sept.  13,  1781,  Hillsboro  was  raided  by  a  Tory  band  under  Col.  David 
Fanning  and  Col.  Hector  McNeill,  who  seized  Governor  Burke  and  his 
suite  and  took  them  to  Wilmington.  Burke  was  transferred  to  Charleston 
as  a  prisoner  and  closely  confined  on  Sullivans  Island.  He  was  paroled  to 
James  Island,  where  he  lived  in  constant  danger  of  his  life.  After  his  appeal 
for  protection  was  ignored,  he  escaped,  fled  to  North  Carolina,  and  resumed 
his  official  duties. 

Here  in  the  1788  convention  anti-Federalists,  led  by  Willie  Jones  (see 
tour  3),  prevailed  against  the  Johnston-Iredell-Davie  followers  to  reject 
adoption  of  the  Federal  Constitution,  delaying  North  Carolina's  entry  into 
the  Union  until  November  1789  (see  fayetteville). 

Brig.  Gen.  Francis  Nash  (1742-77),  brilliant  young  Hillsboro  officer,  left 
his  name  to  a  North  Carolina  county  and  town  (see  tour  6),  and  to  the 
capital  of  the  State  of  Tennessee.  A  star  in  a  pavement  at  Germantown 
marks  the  spot  where  he  fell.  Other  noted  residents  were:  Willie  P.  Mangum 
(1793-1861),  Whig  political  leader,  Congressman  (1823-25),  and  U.S.  Sena- 
tor (1830-35,  1840-52);  Dr.  Edmund  C.  F.  Strudwick  (1802-79),  nrst  presi- 
dent of  the  State  medical  society,  and  J.  G.  de  Roulhac  Hamilton  (1878- 
),  whose  writings  include  Reconstruction  in  North  Carolina,  North 
Carolina  Since  i860,  and  numerous  historical  monographs. 

Orange  County  Courthouse,  SE.  corner  King  and  Churton  Sts.,  two 
stories  in  height  and  constructed  of  hand-pressed  red  brick,  was  built  in 
1845  by  Capt.  John  Berry.  At  the  center  of  the  low-pitched  roof  is  a  low 
square  tower  and  octagonal  cupola.  The  temple-like  Doric  portico  is  of  Greek 
Revival  design.  The  first  of  the  building's  predecessors  burned  in  1790; 
the  second  was  razed  and  its  timbers  used  to  build  the  colored  Methodist 
church,  still  standing.  Records  date  from  1755.  The  cupola  clock  was  made 
in  Birmingham,  England,  in  1766  and  presented  to  the  town  supposedly  by 
George  III  about  1769.  It  once  reposed  in  the  tower  of  St.  Matthew's  Church 
and  for  a  time  in  the  old  market  house.  Its  original  bell  was  lost,  the  story 
goes,  when  the  clock  was  thrown  into  the  river  by  raiding  Tories  and  the 
bell  was  perhaps  used  to  make  cannon.  A  chest  in  the  sheriff's  office  con- 
tains old  measuring  cups  and  the  standards  of  weights  sent  from  London. 

Eagle  Lodge  (private),  Churton  St.,  a  severe  two-story  brick  building, 
three  bays  long,  fronted  by  a  four-columned,  pedimented  Ionic  portico,  is  a 
good  example  of  Greek  Revival  design.  It  was  erected  (1823-25)  with  pro- 
ceeds from  a  lottery  conducted  by  the  lodge.  The  building  stands  on  the 
Site  of  the  Residence  of  Edmund  Fanning — the  house  was  destroyed  by 


TOUR     II  369 

the  Regulators.  In  ballads  sung  by  the  Regulators,  Fanning,  register  of  deeds 
of  Orange  County,  was  accused  of  building  his  fine  house  with  ill-gotten 
gains. 

When  Fanning  first  to  Orange  came, 

He  looked  both  pale  and  wan; 

An  old  patched  coat  upon  his  back, 

An  old  mare  he  rode  on; 

Both  man  and  mare  warn't  worth  five  pounds, 

As  I've  been  often  told. 

But  by  his  civil  robberies 

He's  laced  his  coat  with  gold. 

The  site  of  the  early  parish  church,  NW.  corner  Churton  and  Tryon  Sts., 
is  occupied  by  the  Confederate  Memorial  Library  {open  9-5  weekdays), 
erected  in  1934  of  local  stone  with  white  trim.  The  facade  is  centered  by  a 
small  Roman  Doric  portico.  There  are  large  chimneys  at  both  gable  ends, 
and  the  gable  roof  is  broken  by  four  small  dormers.  Here  in  1764  the  first 
church  for  St.  Matthew's  Parish  was  built.  By  1784  the  building  was  "far 
gone  in  decay,"  but  it  had  been  repaired  for  use  as  a  "school  and  free  meet- 
inghouse" when  the  1783  convention  held  its  sessions  there.  By  public  proc- 
lamation it  was  offered  to  the  first  denomination  to  organize  and  call  a 
minister.  The  Presbyterians  complied  and  it  was  used  for  both  church  and 
school  until  1791  when  it  was  destroyed  to  check  the  progress  of  a  fire. 

The  Presbyterian  Church,  Queen  St.  adjoining  the  library,  was  built 
( 1 812-15)  from  proceeds  of  a  lottery  authorized  by  the  general  assembly  in 
1810.  The  building  is  of  Gothic  Revival  style  with  pointed-arch  windows 
and  a  square  tower  and  steeple  over  the  central  entrance.  In  front  of  the 
church  is  a  monument  to  Archibald  DeBow  Murphey  (1777-1832),  jurist 
and  advocate  of  social,  economic,  and  educational  reforms  far  in  advance 
of  his  times. 

The  Town  Cemetery,  Churton  St.,  behind  the  Presbyterian  Church,  was 
set  aside  for  a  burying  ground  when  the  town  was  platted  in  1754.  Here 
is  the  original  grave  of  William  Hooper  (1742-90),  North  Carolina  signer 
of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  who  resided  in  a  house  two  doors  be- 
yond the  church.  When  Guilford  Battleground  was  being  restored  in  1891 
(see  tour  /j),  the  committee  secured  permission  to  move  Hooper's  remains 
there,  and  accordingly  took  the  ashes  and  gravestone  to  the  railroad  station. 
Before  the  train  arrived,  indignant  citizens,  led  by  Josiah  Turner,  retrieved 
and  replaced  the  stone  in  its  original  position,  though  Hooper's  ashes  were 
interred  at  the  battleground. 

A  headstone  marks  the  Grave  of  William  A.  Graham  (1804-75),  U.  S. 
Senator,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1845-49),  and  Secretary  of  the  Navy 
in  Fillmore's  Cabinet,  who  began  the  practice  of  law  in  Hillsboro  after  his 
graduation  from  the  State  university. 

The  Home  of  Thomas  Burke  (private),  Queen  St.  off  Churton  St.,  is  a 
one-and-a-half-story  frame  house  with  end  chimneys,  and  a  two-story  addi- 
tion on  the  left.  Part  of  the  house  is  fronted  by  a  porch  with  an  extended 


370  TOURS 

shed  roof  and  the  gable  roof  is  pierced  by  three  narrow  dormers.  Burke  was 
chosen  Governor  by  the  general  assembly  in  1781.  The  house  was  later  occu- 
pied by  Dennis  Heartt,  publisher  of  Hillsboro's  first  newspaper,  the  Hills- 
borough Recorder  (1820).  W.  W.  Holden,  Reconstruction  Governor,  was 
Heartt's  "printer's  devil." 

St.  Matthew's  Episcopal  Church  {admittance  by  rector),  just  oflf  Queen 
St.,  was  built  (1812-15)  on  land  given  for  the  purpose  by  Judge  RufEn,  be- 
cause it  was  the  spot  where  the  lovely  Ann  Kirkland  consented  to  become 
Mrs.  Ruffin.  The  brick  structure  is  of  the  Gothic  Revival  type.  The  entrance 
is  through  a  square  central  tower  surmounted  with  a  tapering  steeple  bear- 
ing a  cross.  In  the  vestibule  is  a  chart  showing  the  position  of  graves  in  the 
churchyard.  An  illumined  mosaic  window,  picturing  the  Savior  wearing  an 
18th-century  hat  wreathed  with  a  crown  of  thorns,  is  a  memorial  to  Rev. 
Moses  Ashley  Curtis,  rector  of  the  church  for  21  years. 

The  Cameron  Estate,  separated  from  the  churchyard  by  a  brick  wall, 
has  a  beautiful  grove,  once  part  of  Hillsboro  Common.  Rebecca  Cameron 
(H.  M.  LeGrange),  author,  was  born  here  in  1844.  She  died  in  1936  and 
is  buried  in  St.  Matthew's  Churchyard.  She  is  author  of  Salted  with  Fire 
and  A  Partisan  Leader  in  ijj6.  A  small  frame  outbuilding  with  stone  end 
chimneys  was  Judge  Ruffin's  Law  Office.  Thomas  RufEn  (1787-1870) 
was  chosen  Chief  Justice  of  the  State  Supreme  Court  by  the  toss  of  a  coin, 
when,  after  the  death  of  Chief  Justice  Henderson,  Justice  Daniel  refused 
to  choose  between  Ruffin  and  William  Gaston  {see  new  Bern),  each  of 
whom  proffered  the  honor  to  the  other. 

In  the  grove  is  the  marked  Site  of  the  Regulator  Hanging  on  June  19, 
1 771.  The  unmarked  graves  of  the  victims — Benjamin  Merrill,  Captain 
Messer,  Robert  Matear,  James  Pugh,  and  two  other  Regulators — are  nearer 
the  river,  close  to  an  old  stone  chimney  that  is  the  remnant  of  a  house  in 
which  Tryon's  tax  collectors  met  in  1765. 

The  Nash  House  {private),  Margarets  Lane,  is  believed  to  have  been 
erected  in  1769  by  Isaac  Edwards,  Governor  Tryon's  private  secretary.  In 
two  sections  on  different  floor  levels,  the  older  has  flush  weatherboarding  18 
inches  wide,  large  hand-hewn  sills,  and  hand-wrought  hardware.  Governor 
Tryon  may  have  occupied  the  house  in  1768;  it  served  as  Governor  Martin's 
summer  residence  in  1772.  In  1807  it  became  the  property  of  Frederick  Nash, 
Chief  Justice  of  the  State  Supreme  Court  (1852-58).  Judge  Nash  was  the 
son  of  Abner  Nash  {see  tour  28  and  new  bern).  From  his  death  in  1858 
till  1892,  his  daughters  and  his  niece  conducted  here  for  young  ladies  the 
"Select  Boarding  School  of  Misses  Nash  and  Kollock." 

Hillsboro  is  at  the  junction  with  US  70  {see  tour  25). 

Right  from  Hillsboro  on  the  improved  Dimocks  Mill  Rd.  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt 
road,  2  m. ;  R.  0.3  m.  on  this  road  to  Moorefields  {open).  This  old  eight-room  Georgian 
Colonial  house  was  built  in  1752-55  by  Judge  Alfred  Moore,  Attorney  General  of  North 
Carolina  and  early  U.S.  Supreme  Court  Justice.  Hand-hewn  timbers  are  fastened  with 
wooden  pegs  and  hand-wrought  nails.  The  door  and  window  blind  hinges  are  the  hand- 
made HL  type,  usually  called  the  "Lord-help-us"  hinge.  The  house  was  remodeled  in 
1931    but    the   only   addition    was   a   porch   and   a   new   roof.  The  original    hand-carved 


TOUR     II  371 

stairway  and  mantels  remain.  On  the  grounds  are  chimneys  of  the  slave  quarters  and 
both  family  and  slave  burying  grounds,  though  Judge  Moore  was  interred  at  Old 
Brunswick   (see  tour   iC). 

At  42.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  0.2  m. ;  R.  0.1  m.;  under  the  track  at  the  station  and  R.  0.5  m. ; 
(at  track  after  crossing)  0.3  m. ;  R.  0.2  m.  to  the  remnants  of  Hillsboro  Military 
Academy.  Construction  was  begun  in  1859  and  during  the  War  between  the  States 
the  academy  was  used  to  train  Confederate  recruits.  After  the  war  it  was  operated  for 
several  years  by  Graves  and  Horner.  Five  bays  on  the  extreme  left  of  the  barracks 
remain;  the  commandant's  house  has  been  restored.  The  old  barracks  had  some  of  the 
fortified  aspects  of  the  medieval  castle  and  the  connecting  walls  had  Gothic  quatrefoils. 

CARRBORO,  55  m.  (510  alt.,  1,242  pop.),  is  a  textile-manufacturing 
village. 

Right  from  Carrboro  on  a  sand-clay  road  to  University  Lake,  2  m.,  in  a  setting 
of  rolling  hills  and  dense  Piedmont  forests.  The  lake  (fishing)  is  formed  by  damming 
Price  and  Morgan  Creeks. 

At  57  m.,  at  the  junction  with  US  501  {see  tour  10),  is  CHAPEL  HILL 
(501  alt.,  2,699  P°P-)  (see  chapel  hill). 

Points  of  Interest:  Old  East,  University  Library,  Kenan  Stadium,  Playmakers  Theater, 
Coker  Arboretum,  Widow  Puckett  House,  Gimghoul  Castle,  and  others. 


TOUR       I     2_ 


(Danville,    Va.) — Reidsville — Greensboro — Salisbury — Charlotte;    US    29, 

29A,  29. 

Virginia  Line — Charlotte,  139  m. 

Southern  Ry.  parallels  the  route  throughout. 

Roadbed  paved   throughout. 

Hotels  in   cities   and   towns;    tourist  homes   and   camps. 

This  route  across  the  Piedmont  runs  over  gently  rolling  land,  wooded  or 
planted  with  corn,  tobacco,  small  grains,  and  other  crops. 

US  29  crosses  the  North  Carolina  Line,  0  m.,  5  miles  southwest  of  Dan- 
ville, Va.  (see  va.  tour  4). 

PELHAM,  2.5  m.  (740  alt.,  153  pop.),  a  trading  center  in  rural  Caswell 
County,  lies  in  a  region  well  adapted  to  the  culture  of  bright-leaf  tobacco 
(see  tour  //).  This  was  a  local  Gretna  Green  when  North  Carolina  marriage 
laws  were  more  convenient  than  those  of  Virginia. 

Southwest  of  STACEY,  13  m.  (767  alt.,  45  pop.),  the  road  follows  a  high 
ridge  through  a  region  of  farms  marked  by  tobacco  barns,  crude  log  affairs 
which  nevertheless  appear  more  substantial  than  the  cabins  of  the  tenant 
croppers.  During  August  and  September  smoke  curls  from  the  chimneys 
day  and  night,  the  flare  at  evening  lighting  a  solitary  attendant  or  a  scene 
made  gay  by  the  banjo  strumming,  singing,  and  dancing  of  a  group  tending 
the  curing  fire.  The  distant  sky  line  is  pierced  by  the  brick  smokestacks  of 
Reidsville's  tobacco  factories.  Storage  warehouses  of  the  American  Tobacco 
Co.,  15.4  m.,  border  the  highway  for  more  than  a  mile  (L). 

REIDSVILLE,  18.3  m.  (841  alt.,  6,851  pop.),  is  an  industrial  city 
with  wide  streets,  one  of  North  Carolina's  three  tobacco-manufacturing 
centers.  Other  factories  manufacture  cotton,  silk  and  rayon  textiles,  shoe 
polishes  and  leather  preservatives,  concrete  forms,  food  products,  and  feed- 
stuffs. 

The  town  grew  out  of  a  settlement  which  began  in  18 15  when  Reuben 
Reid  and  his  family  purchased  a  farm  and  built  their  home  on  the  Danville- 
Salisbury  road.  The  village  was  named  for  Reuben's  son,  David  S.  Reid, 
Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1851-54),  and  U.S.  Senator.  William  Lindsey 
established  the  first  tobacco  factory  here  in  1858  and  produced  the  brand, 
Lindsey's  Level  Best.  In  1863  the  Confederate  Government  built  the  Pied- 
mont Air  Line  for  transporting  troops  and  supplies  to  Lee's  and  Johnston's 
armies.  Maj.  Mortimer  Oaks  and  James  Allen  entered  the  tobacco  business 

372 


tour  12  373 

in  1 871,  and  three  years  later  F.  R.  and  S.  C.  Penn  came  from  Virginia 
and  opened  a  tobacco  factory  here  that  steadily  expanded. 

The  American  Tobacco  Co.  Plant  {open  Mon.-Thurs.  9-4:15;  Fri.  9-12), 
an  outgrowth  of  the  Penn  factory,  covers  an  entire  city  block.  The  air- 
conditioned  brick  buildings  are  equipped  with  machinery  capable  of  pro- 
ducing 100,000,000  cigarettes  a  day.  The  principal  product  is  Lucky  Strike 
cigarettes.  Because  of  the  large  quantities  of  Turkish  tobacco  and  cigarette 
paper  imported  by  the  company,  Reidsville  was  made  a  port  of  entry. 

In  the  Federal  Building  (1936),  weekly  receipts  averaging  $1,000,000 
indicate  the  revenue  derived  from  the  tobacco  industry.  This  striking  brick 
and  limestone  structure  has  monumental  entrances  flanked  by  chrome  and 
frosted-glass  lamps  and  surmounted  by  gilt  eagles. 

In  the  old  Settle  Family  Graveyard  is  the  ivy-covered  marble  Tomb  of 
Mrs.  Stephen  A.  Douglas,  first  wife  of  Abraham  Lincoln's  political  antag- 
onist. Following  her  death  in  1852  in  Washington,  D.  C,  the  body  was 
brought  in  a  horse-drawn  hearse  to  her  girlhood  home.  The  party  did  not 
reach  the  cemetery  until  after  dark  and  the  tradition  is  that  the  last  rites  were 
held  by  the  flare  of  lightwood  torches. 

Reidsville  is  at  the  junction  with  US  158  (see  tour  24b). 

Right  from  Reidsville  on  State  65  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road,  3  m. ;  R.  2  m. 
on  this  road  to  an  old  Iron  Works  Mill,  where  a  marker  recalls  that  at  different  times 
Greene  and  Cornwallis  camped  here  during  the  Revolution. 

At  10  m.  is  MONROETON,  a  crossroads  settlement.  Left  8.5  m.  from  the  crossroads 
to  the  old  Cunningham  (Patrick)  Mill,  erected  in  181 6.  Members  of  the  Ku  Klux  Klan 
gathered  here  (see  tour  j_j).  The  mill,  powered  by  an  overshot  wheel,  still  grinds 
meal.  Carved  over  the  door  of  a  springhouse  near  the  mill  is  the  name  of  the  builder, 
"J.  Patrick,  1824." 

South  of  Reidsville  US  29  runs  through  a  hilly,  wooded  section,  crossing 
Troublesome  Creek  at  24.7  m.  and  Haw  River  at  25.5  m.  At  30  m.  is 
MONTICELLO  (800  alt.,  100  pop.),  settled  by  English  Calvinists  after 
the  organization  of  Guilford  County  (1770). 

GREENSBORO,  42  m.  (838  alt.,  53,569  pop.)  (see  greensboro). 

Points  of  Interest:  Jefferson  Standard  Building,  Greensboro  College,  Woman's  College 
of  the  University  of  North  Carolina,  Cone  Textile  Mills,  and  others. 

Greensboro  is  at  the  junction  with  US  70  (see  tour  25),  US  421  (see  tours 
25  and  29),  and  US  220  (see  tour  13). 

US  29  unites  with  US  70  between  Greensboro  and  High  Point.  Between 
45.5  m.  and  Thomasville  it  is  a  four-lane  boulevard. 

At  49  m.  (R)  are  the  Offices  of  the  Pilot  Life  Insurance  Co.  (open 
9-3),  named  for  Pilot  Mountain  in  Surry  County  (see  tour  15a).  The  build- 
ings stand  on  a  knoll  in  a  landscaped  park.  Windows,  made  of  quartz  mined 
at  Spruce  Pine  (see  tour  20),  permit  maximum  ultraviolet  radiation  and 
remain  permanently  closed,  as  the  building  is  air-conditioned. 

Across  the  highway  from  the  Pilot  buildings  is  the  entrance  to  SEDGE- 


374  tours 

FIELD  (350  pop.),  a  resort.  Sedgefield  Inn,  a  rambling  Tudor-style  build- 
ing, stands  in  a  3,600-acre  woodland  park.  Here  are  attractive  country  homes 
and  the  Valley  Brook  Golf  Course  (18  holes;  greens  fee,  $1.50  weekdays, 
$2  Sun.),  scene  of  open,  amateur,  and  professional  matches. 

JAMESTOWN,  53  m.  (779  alt.,  350  pop.),  has  two  distinct  sections. 
The  business  buildings  are  in  the  newer  settlement.  In  old  Jamestown,  settled 
by  Quakers  in  1757,  are  shady  lawns  and  gardens  around  old  homes,  some 
of  which  are  in  ruins.  The  village  was  named  for  James  Mendenhall,  a  Penn- 
sylvania Quaker  who  came  to  North  Carolina  in  1759. 

Gold  and  copper  were  discovered  about  18 15  in  the  granite  hills  along 
Deep  River,  5  miles  south  of  town.  Several  mines  were  operated  but  the  cost 
of  production  finally  exceeded  the  value  of  the  ore,  and,  except  for  copper 
mining  during  the  War  between  the  States,  the  mines  were  abandoned.  The 
dumps,  tunnels,  and  dilapidated  buildings  remain.  A  girls  school  was 
founded  in  Jamestown  about  181 2,  and  for  several  years  after  1820  George  C. 
Mendenhall  conducted  the  Tellmont  Law  School,  one  of  the  earliest  in  the 
State.  Early  agricultural  and  religious  papers  were  published  here,  and  in 
1839  an  attempt  was  made  to  grow  silkworms  in  this  section. 

The  High  Point  City  Park  (R),  54  m.,  contains  a  40-acre  lake,  cov- 
ering sites  of  a  pre-Revolutionary  tannery,  a  Quaker  hat  factory,  and  a 
woolen  mill.  A  swimming  pool  {open  in  summer)  is  nearby.  The  dam  and 
spillway  are  illuminated  at  night.  An  outdoor  amphitheater  seats  2,500 
persons. 

Near  the  reservoir  is  an  Old  Quaker  Meetinghouse,  now  a  museum, 
that  was  erected  about  1819.  It  has  hand-hewn  timbers  and  hand-made  red 
brick  laid  in  Flemish  bond  upon  a  heavy  stone  foundation. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  High  Point  City  Park  is  (R)  the  Mendenhall 
House,  an  ivy-covered  brick  ruin,  built  in  1824  by  Richard  M.  Mendenhall 
and  used  for  a  store  once  run  by  a  slave.  The  initials  R  M  M  are  carved 
on  a  stone  slab  under  the  eave  line  in  the  gable. 

Opposite  the  entrance  to  the  park  is  (L)  the  Steele  House  {private), 
a  brick  building,  erected  in  181 1,  remodeled  and  painted  dull  yellow. 

Beyond  the  Steele  House  is  (L)  the  Coffin  House  {pivate),  a  weather- 
boarded  building,  painted  white,  that  was  erected  before  1820  by  Dr.  S.  G. 
Coffin,  who  here  conducted  a  school  in  which  young  gentlemen  "read 
medicine."  In  the  late  1830's  the  house  was  remodeled  and  Greek  Revival 
details  added.  From  about  1840  to  1850  the  school  was  conducted  by  Dr. 
Madison  Lindsay.  Dr.  J.  L.  Robbins,  a  pupil  and  later  associate  of  Dr. 
Coffin's,  assumed  direction  in  1854.  In  1856,  in  the  presence  of  several 
students,  he  used  an  anesthetic  in  a  successful  operation  for  removal  of  an 
abdominal  tumor,  the  first  use  of  a  general  anesthetic  in  North  Carolina. 

At  56  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  70A-29A,  an  alternate  route  around 
High  Point. 

Right  2  m.  on  US  70A-29A  to  the  junction  with  State  68  and  the  Wallburg  Rd. 
Straight  ahead   1   m.   on  the  Wallburg  Rd.    {paved  to  the  county  line)   to  the   junction 


tour   12  375 

with  a  dirt  road;  L.  3.5  m.  on  the  dirt  road  to  Brummels  Inn  (private)  on  Rich  Fork 
Creek.  This  weatherboarded  building  painted  white  with  green  trim  has  end  chimneys 
and  stands  in  a  small  grove  of  maples.  The  old  stage  road  formerly  passed  close  to.  the 
inn,  operated  by  the  wealthy  slave-owning  Jacob  Brummel.  The  house  was  originally 
a  one-room  log  structure  on  a  stone  and  brick  foundation.  It  was  later  a  two-story  frame 
building  with  a  one-story  ell  at  the  right  end.  Three  doorways  open  in  from  a  porch 
extending  the  length  of  the  house.  The  central  door,  in  the  old  log  section,  formerly  led 
into  the  dancing  room  of  the  tavern;  a  chimney  with  a  slab  inscribed  "J.  B.  1814" 
stands  between  this  room  and  the  ell.  The  tongue  and  groove  doors  are  battened  and 
have  HL  hinges. 

Among  other  relics  in  the  tavern  is  an  old  conch  shell  formerly  used  for  calling  the 
slaves.  One  slave  girl  could  blow  a  blast  strong  enough  to  be  heard  6  miles  away. 
A  tale  is  still  told  about  a  stranger  named  William  D.  Weatherfcrd,  who  appeared  at  the 
inn  during  the  winter  of  1854,  announced  he  had  buried  a  satchel  of  gold  in  the 
woods  "between  two  trees,"  and,  a  few  hours  after  his  arrival,  died.  He  was  buried  in 
the  graveyard  behind  the  inn.  The  Brummels  were  never  able  to  identify  the  stranger 
or  to  find  the  gold. 

HIGH  POINT,  59  m.  (940  alt.,  36,745  pop.)  {see  high  point). 

Points  of  Interest:  Tomlinson  Furniture  Plant,  Southern  Furniture  Exposition  Building, 
High  Point  College,  Blair  Park,  and  others. 

High  Point  is  at  the  junction  with  US  311  {see  tour  14). 

Left  from  High  Point  on  Kivett  Dr.  to  the  Hayworth  Springs  Picnic  Grounds  (tables, 
water).  A  footpath  leads  0.5  m.  over  the  hill  to  the  Old  Gold  Mines,  where  the  ruins, 
pumps,  and  water  dam  are  half-hidden  in  a  dense  growth  of  oak  and  pine.  Three  mines 
were  opened  here  following  the  discovery  of  gold  in  North  Carolina  (see  tour  32). 
Although  the  ore  assayed  more  than  $23  a  ton  the  vein  disappeared  before  the  mines 
had  begun  to  yield  a  profit. 

At  61.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  High  Point  bypass  {see  above). 

THOMASVILLE,  66.7  m.  (853  alt.,  10,090  pop.),  with  a  daily  output 
of  about  8,000  chairs,  displays  a  huge  chair  on  the  common.  Main  Street  is 
divided  by  double  railway  tracks,  and  factories,  residences,  and  stores  are 
intermingled.  The  screech  and  whine  of  woodworking  machinery  have  been 
heard  here  since  the  early  1870's  when  the  first  chair  factories  began  utiliz- 
ing the  abundance  of  hickory  and  oak  in  the  vicinity.  Since  1920  cotton, 
rayon,  and  silk  mills  have  been  established.  An  advanced  form  of  city- 
manager  government,  with  aldermen  divided  between  the  two  dominant 
political  parties,  operates  under  liberal  civil  service  rules.  ,j< 

The  Mills  Home  {open),  near  the  southern  city  limits,  an  orphanage 
supported  by  the  Baptist  Church,  comprises  a  group  of  brick  buildings  in  a 
50-acre  grove  and  a  600-acre  school  farm.  The  home  cares  for  500  children. 

;il 

LEXINGTON,  78  m.  (811  alt.,  9,652  pop.),  manufacturing  town  and  ,1 

seat  of  Davidson  County,  was  settled  in  1775  and  later  named  for  the  Revo- 
lutionary battle  site.  Three  open  plots  and  the  courthouse  square  were  re- 
served for  public  buildings  when  Lexington  became  the  county  seat  in  1824. 
The  Confederate  Monument,  Main  and  Center  Sts.,  is  on  the  site  of  the 
first  courthouse  (1824).  The  present  Davidson  County  Courthouse,  a 
temple-like  Classical  Revival  structure  on  the  southwest  corner  of  the 
square,  was  built  in   1870  using  the  walls  of  the  older  structure.  It  was 


376  TOURS 

remodeled  in  191 8.  Six  stone  Corinthian  columns  rise  across  the  front  eleva- 
tion; on  the  roof  is  a  square  clock  cupola.  Slave  auction  blocks  flank  the 
entrance  steps. 

In  the  yard  of  the  John  Lowe  residence,  N.  Main  St.,  are  four  registered 
Century  Oaks,  estimated  to  be  about  175  years  old. 

Principal  industrial  plants  are  flour  and  cotton  mills.  Grimes  Bros.  Mill, 
established  in  1879  and  still  using  part  of  the  original  building,  was  the 
first  roller-process  flour  mill  in  the  State. 

Lexington  is  at  the  junction  with  US  64  (see  tour  26b)  and  the  northern 
junction  with  US  52  (see  tour  15a),  which  unites  with  US  29-70  between 
this  point  and  Salisbury. 

At  88  m.  is  the  junction  with  improved  State  703. 

Right  on  State  703,  at  a  right-angle  bend  overlooking  the  Yadkin  River,  is  a  junction 
with  a  dirt  road,  5  m.  Left  1  m.  on  this  road  to  the  BOONE  MEMORIAL  PARK  AND 
CAVE.  Here  is  the  marked  Site  of  a  Cabin  Built  by  Daniel  Boone  (see  tour  18). 
A  Museum  of  Relics  in  a  reproduction  of  the  log  cabin  includes  a  stone  inscribed 
"D.  Boone."  About  100  yards  from  the  cabin  is  what  has  been  known  for  generations 
as  Boone's  Cave,  or  the  Devil's  Den,  where  Daniel  is  said  to  have  hidden  from  the 
Indians.  The  opening,  about  2  feet  wide,  overlooks  the  river  and  is  obscured  by  the 
surrounding  forest.  The  cave,  3  to  5  feet  high,  runs  into  the  solid  rock  80  feet  in  one 
direction  and  45  feet  in  another. 

A  marker  (L),  88.5  m.,  designates  the  Site  of  Old  Trading  Ford, 
covered  by  the  waters  of  High  Rock  Lake.  In  Colonial  times  setders  annually 
met  the  Indians  to  trade,  especially  for  shad,  near  here  on  the  Yadkin  River. 
After  General  Greene,  retreating  before  Cornwallis,  crossed  the  river  here 
on  Feb.  2-3,  1781,  a  sudden  rise  of  the  water  prevented  the  British  from 
following  and  permitted  the  Americans  to  escape. 

The  highway  crosses  the  Yadkin  River,  89.5  m.,  at  the  upper  end  of 
HIGH  ROCK  LAKE  over  a  bridge  more  than  1,000  feet  long.  The  lake 
serves  as  a  fresh-water  reservoir  for  Salisbury,  and  the  hydroelectric  plant 
at  High  Rock  Dam  furnishes  power  for  the  Carolina  Aluminum  Co.  High 
Rock  is  one  of  several  great  power  developments  on  the  Yadkin,  which 
drains  the  greatest  area  (9,300  sq.  m.)  and  supplies  the  greatest  amount  of 
electric  power  (300,000  hp.)  of  any  stream  in  North  Carolina,  and  has  an 
equal  amount  of  undeveloped  power.  Below  its  confluence  with  the  Uharie 
River  at  the  upper  end  of  Lake  Tillery,  it  is  called  the  Pee  Dee.  It  was  said 
that  Daniel  Boone's  desire  to  explore  the  upper  Yadkin  led  him  westward  to 
the  "Kintuck"  country  (see  tour  25).  The  Pee  Dee  was  said  to  be  the  river 
of  Stephen  Foster's  song  until  he  substituted  the  Swanee  as  being  more 
euphonious. 

SPENCER,  92  m.  (747  alt.,  3,128  pop.),  is  a  division  point  of  the  Southern 
Ry.  Fifteen  hundred  persons,  some  of  whom  live  in  Salisbury,  are  em- 
ployed here  in  the  railroad  offices,  roundhouses,  and  shop. 

SALISBURY,  96  m.  (764  alt.,  16,951  pop.),  one  of  the  oldest  towns  of 
the  Piedmont,  is  the  seat  of  Rowan  County,  and  an  industrial  center.  Town 
and  county  are  important  for  their  textile  plants,  producing  combed  yarn, 


tour  12  377 

blankets,  and  cotton  goods;  for  transmission  of  electrical  power,  and  for  an 
extensive  granite-quarrying  industry. 

The  town  was  founded  in  1753,  incorporated  in  1755,  and  named  for  the 
Marquis  of  Salisbury  and  the  English  cathedral  town.  Records  beginning  in 
1753  are  preserved  in  the  Rowan  County  Courthouse  (1926).  A  superior 
court  entry  of  Nov.  6,  1787,  shows  that  Andrew  Jackson  was  admitted  to  the 
local  bar  on  that  date.  Beside  the  new  structure  is  the  Old  Courthouse,  a 
two-story  Greek  Revival  edifice,  with  a  fine  Doric  entablature,  and  six 
Doric  columns  on  the  front  two-story  portico.  It  was  erected  between  1854 
and  1857  after  a  design  attributed  to  Robert  Mills,  and  houses  (1939)  a 
community  center,  public  library,  chamber  of  commerce  office,  and  Red 
Cross  headquarters. 

Barracks  erected  east  of  Crane  Creek  during  the  War  of  18 12  were  used 
as  a  camp  of  instruction  for  recruits  from  western  North  Carolina,  South 
Carolina,  and  Georgia  for  service  on  the  Canadian  border.  In  1814,  when  a 
volunteer  regiment  was  enlisted  to  fight  the  Creek  Indians,  the  ladies  of 
Salisbury  presented  them  with  a  blue  silk  flag  with  fringe  of  gold  and  the 
painted  motto:  "Let  not  the  rage  of  war  obliterate  honor  and  humanity 
toward  the  females  of  our  savage  foe."  However,  General  Jackson  had  sub- 
dued the  Creeks  before  the  regiment  saw  service. 

Gen.  John  Steele,  Congressman  and  first  Comptroller  of  the  Currency 
(1796-1802),  and  Gen.  William  R.  Davie  (see  tour  j  and  chapel  hill) 
lived  here.  The  Site  of  the  Office  of  Spruce  Macay,  is  near  the  corner 
of  Fisher  and  S.  Church  Sts.;  here  Andrew  Jackson  practiced  law  (his  office 
building  was  taken  to  the  Philadelphia  and  Chicago  [1893]  Expositions). 
James  K.  Polk,  whose  mother  was  a  native  of  Rowan  County,  was  a  fre- 
quent visitor,  and  Woodrow  Wilson  spent  much  time  in  the  city  during  his 
student  days  at  Davidson  (see  tour  16). 

Frances  Fisher  Tiernan  (1846-1920)  of  Salisbury  wrote  50  or  more  novels 
under  the  pen  name,  Christian  Reid.  Her  best-known  book  the  Land  of 
the  S\y  (1876)  is  said  to  have  given  western  North  Carolina  the  designa- 
tion it  continues  to  bear.  Sidney  Blackmer,  the  actor,  was  born  here;  his 
career  began  with  the  Carolina  Playmakers  at  Chapel  Hill. 

The  congregation  of  St.  John's  Evangelical  Lutheran  Church,  NE. 
corner  W.  Innis  and  Church  Sts.,  was  organized  between  1747  and  1768 
and  housed  in  a  log  structure,  the  first  church  erected  in  Salisbury.  The 
present  building,  of  Gothic  design,  is  constructed  of  brick  trimmed  with 
stone. 

Near  the  center  of  Salisbury  is  a  National  Cemetery  containing  the 
graves  of  12,216  soldiers  (1939).  During  the  War  between  the  States  11,700 
Federal  soldiers  who  died  in  the  Salisbury  prison  were  interred  here.  Only 
the  boundaries  of  the  burial  trenches  are  marked,  though  the  record  of 
names  of  the  dead  has  been  kept.  Robert  Livingstone,  son  of  David  Living- 
stone, the  missionary,  was  buried  among  the  soldiers.  Veterans  of  the 
Spanish-American  and  World  Wars  also  are  buried  here. 

The  Confederate  Monument  at  the  intersection  of  Innis  and  Church  Sts., 
erected  in   1909,  is  a  reproduction  of  the  Baltimore,  Md.,  monument  by 


378  TOURS 

Frederick  Ruckstuhl.  The  bronze  group  on  a  pedestal  of  pink  Rowan 
granite  represents  a  mortally  wounded  southern  soldier  supported  by  Fame, 
who  holds  a  crown  of  glory. 

The  Site  of  the  Salisbury  Prison  is  on  Honah  St.,  one  of  the  four 
largest  maintained  by  the  Confederate  Government.  First  intended  as  a 
prison  for  Confederate  deserters  and  others  awaiting  court  martial,  it  was 
converted  into  a  camp  for  Union  prisoners,  and  by  March  1862  held  1,500 
captured  troops.  In  October  1864,  10,000  prisoners  arrived  to  be  crowded 
into  a  space  sufficient  for  only  2,000.  Some  built  mud  huts  for  themselves 
or  burrowed  into  the  earth.  Food,  clothing,  and  sanitary  provisions  were 
inadequate.  Between  October  1864,  and  February  1865,  there  were  3,419 
deaths.  Serving  as  guards  were  the  State  Junior  Reserves,  boys  under  17, 
and  the  Senior  Reserves,  men  over  45,  later  over  50,  since  all  others  were 
supposed  to  be  bearing  arms.  Of  the  2,800  prisoners  who  began  the  march 
to  Wilmington  when  a  transfer  was  ordered  in  February  1865,  only  1,800 
reached  the  destination.  When  Federal  Gen.  George  Stoneman  captured 
Salisbury  in  April  1865,  he  used  the  same  stockade  for  Confederate  prisoners 
and  when  he  departed  he  burned  the  entire  equipment,  as  well  as  factories, 
railroad  shops,  and  public  buildings  of  the  town. 

Livingstone  College,  Monroe  St.,  housed  in  eight  brick  buildings,  on 
315  acres,  is  a  coeducational  institution  with  400  Negro  students. 

A  vault  in  a  local  cemetery  contains  the  body  of  Ben  Freeze,  a  retired 
Rowan  County  business  man,  placed  there  in  1936  fully  dressed  and  lying 
upon  a  double  bed.  He  expressed  the  wish  that  his  wife  be  laid  beside  him 
when  she  died. 

Salisbury  is  at  the  southern  junction  with  US  52  {see  tour  15b). 

1.  Right,  sharply,  from  Salisbury  on  US  70  to  Catawba  College,  2  m.,  a  four-year 
coeducational  institution  maintained  by  the  Evangelical  and  Reformed  Church.  The 
administration  building  is  a  three-story  brick  structure  of  Tudor  design  with  central 
entrance  tower  and  battlemented  roof.  Established  at  Newton  in  1852  the  college  was 
brought  here  in  1925.  The  student  body  numbers  400. 

2.  Right  from  Salisbury  on  the  Beatties  Ford  Rd.  to  the  old  Organ  Church,  10  m.  This 
Evangelical  Lutheran  Church,  originally  Zion's  Church,  is  one  of  the  three  mother 
churches  of  the  denomination  in  North  Carolina.  It  was  organized  shortly  after  1747. 
Hickory  Church,  the  first  building,  was  owned  and  used  jointly  by  the  Lutheran  and 
German  Reformed  congregations.  The  present  sturdy  two-story  stone  structure  erected  in 
1 79 1  is  the  third  used  by  the  Lutherans.  The  building  no  longer  contains  the  old  pipe 
organ  for  which  the  church  was  named,  nor  the  old  goblet-shaped  pulpit  with  high 
soundboard  and  winding  steps.  The  organ  was  built  in  the  church  entirely  by  hand  by 
a  member  of  the  congregation,  named  Steigerwalt  (Stirewalt),  and  was  the  first  organ 
in  any  Lutheran  church  in  North  Carolina. 

Grace  Reformed  Church,  12  m.,  was  built  (1795-1811)  by  members  of  old 
Hickory  Church  when  they  separated  from  the  Lutherans.  It  was  commonly  called  the 
Lower  Stone  Church  because  it  was  built  of  the  same  kind  of  stone  as  the  old  Organ 
Church  but  on  a  lower  site  on  Second  Creek. 

At  98  m.  are  the  Rowan  County  Fairgrounds  (R),  and  the  junction 
with  a  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  Salisbury  Municipal  Airport,  1  m.,  which  has  3.000-foot 
runways  and  one  of  the  largest  hangars  in  the  State. 


tour   12  379 

The  marked  Site  of  the  Home  op  Betsy  Brandon  (R)  is  at  100  m. 
While  General  Washington  in  1791  was  on  the  way  to  Salisbury  he  stopped 
at  the  farm  home  of  Squire  Richard  Brandon.  All  the  family  except  14-year- 
old  Betsy  had  gone  to  Salisbury  to  see  the  President.  He  told  her  that  if  she 
would  give  him  breakfast  she  should  see  General  Washington  before  any 
of  the  others. 

CHINA  GROVE,  104  m.  (821  alt.,  1,258  pop.),  is  a  manufacturing 
town  with  a  branch  of  the  Cannon  Mills. 

China  Grove  is  at  the  northern  junction  with  paved  US  29 A,  now  the 
route. 

Left  here  on  US  29,  an  alternate  and  shorter  route  to  Concord,  12  m. 

Right  on  US  29A;  KANNAPOLIS,  110  m.  (765  alt.,  12,661  pop.),  is 
the  largest  unincorporated  town  in  the  State,  owned  by  Cannon  Mills  {not 
open  to  public),  whose  factories,  offices,  stores,  and  warehouses  line  both 
sides  of  the  highway  for  more  than  a  mile.  When  started  in  1877  the  mills 
produced  only  rough  cotton  yarn  and  cloth;  towels  were  not  manufactured  I 

until  1898.  They  are  now  the  largest  producers  of  household  textiles  in  the 
world,  with  plants  scattered  throughout  the  South  and  extensive  sales  offices 
in  New  York  City.  Towels,  blankets,  and  sheets  are  made  at  Kannapolis, 
where  the  heaviest  production  is  concentrated.  Towels  are  manufactured  at 
the  rate  of  40,000  dozen  a  day. 

The  town  of  Kannapolis  was  built  on  a  600-acre  tract  of  abandoned  land 
in  1906  by  J.  W.  Cannon,  Sr.,  founder  of  the  mills.  A  mammoth  illuminated 
sign,  representing  a  cannon,  rises  above  the  factory  buildings. 

CONCORD,  117  m.  (704  alt.,  11,820  pop.),  the  seat  of  Cabarrus  County, 
was  so  called  because  two  factions,  disagreeing  over  the  place  for  the  county 
seat,  finally  reached  a  harmonious  settlement  at  this  spot.  Concord  has  almost 
a  score  of  manufacturing  plants  (1939),  producing  cotton  goods,  cotton- 
seed oil,  lumber,  flour,  mattresses,  and  hosiery. 

The  First  Presbyterian  Church,  N.  Main  St.,  is  a  red  brick  reproduction 
of  a  church  in  New  Haven,  Conn.  Its  carillon  can  be  heard  throughout 
the  city.  The  old  cemetery,  behind  the  church,  has  been  converted  into  a 
Memorial  Garden,  with  winding  paths  and  flowers.  Beyond  the  rear  wall 
is  a  slave  cemetery. 

Concord  is  at  the  southern  junction  with  US  29.  I| 

1.  Right  from  Concord  on  the  Poplar  Tent  Rd.  to  the  Site  of  the  Phifer  Home,  1  m.,  ,, 

where  President  Washington  was  the  guest  of  Col.  Martin  Phifer  in  1791.  The  house, 
then  one  of  the  show  places  of  the  State,  was  built  by  Revolutionary  Col.  John  Phifer, 
who  entertained  Governor  Tryon  here  in  1768,  and  was  later  a  member  of  the  Mecklen- 
burg Committee  {see  charlotte).  The  Phifer  Long  Tavern  on  the  plantation  is  occu- 
pied (1939)  by  Negroes. 

At  3  m.  an  iron  cross  marks  the  Site  of  Cabarrus  Black  Boys  Action  in  their  Gun- 
powder Plot.  During  the  conflict  between  Governor  Tryon  and  the  Regulators  {see 
tour  25),  the  Governor  had  ordered  a  shipment  of  gunpowder,  flints,  blankets,  and 
other  military  supplies  sent  from  Charleston,  S.  C,  to  General  Waddell  at  Salisbury.  A 
group  of  young  men,  knowing   that  the   supplies   were  to  be  used   in   oppressing   their 


380  TOURS 

own  people,  blacked  their  faces,  overtook  the  wagon  train  camped  on  Phifers  Hill,  and 
captured  it  (May  2,  1771).  They  smashed  the  kegs  of  powder,  tore  the  blankets  into 
strips,  and  Maj.  James  White  fired  a  pistol  into  the  train,  causing  a  tremendous  explo- 
sion. When  Governor  Tryon  offered  a  pardon  to  anyone  who  would  give  evidence  against 
the  others,  two  half  brothers,  each  unknown  to  the  other,  turned  informants.  Their 
treachery  forced  the  other  plotters  to  flee  the  State. 

2.  Right  from  the  square  at  Concord  on  the  improved  old  Charlotte  Rd.  to  Smithfield 
{private),  5  m.,  family  home  of  Maj.  Robert  Smith.  This  pre-Revolutionary  structure 
overlooking  the  Rocky  River  is  a  large  square  house  to  which  wings  have  been  added. 
Windows  and  doors  are  irregularly  placed  and  the  broad  thick  chimneys  have  their 
original  tops.  In  the  family  burying  ground  slabs  are  held  by  mortar  in  brick  founda- 
tions. Slaves  were  buried  in  a  plot  nearby. 

President  Washington,  with  Maj.  William  Jackson,  his  aide,  dined  here  on  Sunday, 
May  29,  1 79 1.  Local  tradition  relates  that  the  President,  while  making  his  toilet  before 
dinner,  discovered  he  had  left  his  powder  puff  in  Charlotte  the  previous  night.  After 
dinner  he  continued  on  his  journey  to  the  Phifer  home.  Traveling  in  a  coach  of  pale 
ivory  and  gilt,  bearing  designs  painted  to  represent  the  four  seasons,  as  well  as  the  coat 
of  arms  of  the  Washington  family,  the  President  noted  ".  . .  lands  of  a  reddish  cast  and 
well  timbered,  with  but  little  underbrush,  and  the  first  meadows  since  leaving  Virginia. 
Here  also,  appears  to  be  a  fine  wheat  country." 

3.  Left  from  Concord  on  a  dirt  road  to  St.  John's  Church,  6  m.,  one  of  the  first  three 
Lutheran  churches  in  North  Carolina.  The  first  building  was  a  rude  hut  of  unhewn 
pine  logs,  without  floor,  windows,  or  chimney,  owned  jointly  by  the  Lutheran  and 
German  Reformed  denominations.  It  was  used  for  both  church  and  school,  and  called 
Dutch  Buffalo  Creek  Church.  In  1771  the  Lutherans  withdrew,  adopted  the  name  St. 
John's,  and  erected  the  old  Red  Meetinghouse.  Here  was  held  (1794)  the  first  ecclesiastic 
assembly  of  the  Lutheran  Church  of  North  Carolina.  The  fifth  and  present  brick 
structure  was  erected  in  1845  and  extensively  remodeled  in  1888.  The  roof  is  steeply 
pitched  and  the  tall  windows  evenly  placed. 

Between  120  m.  and  122  m.  on  US  29  in  a  section  known  as  ROCKY 
RIDGE  are  huge  gray  and  weathered  rocks  on  both  sides  of  the  road. 
These  range  in  size  from  small  stones  to  100-ton  boulders  and  in  some 
places  form  vast  ledges  which  serve  as  back  yards  or  side  entrances  of  houses. 

The  Stonewall  Jackson  Training  School  (R),  121  m.,  was  chartered 
in  1907  by  the  general  assembly  and  financed  with  funds  offered  Mrs. 
Jackson  as  a  pension  and  declined  by  her.  The  boys  are  housed  in  16  three- 
story  cottages  grouped  about  an  administration  building. 

SUGAW  (SUGAR)  CREEK  PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCH,  126  m.,  a 

one-story  brick  building  with  a  low-pitched  gable  roof,  was  erected  in  1868- 
69,  and  is  the  fourth  church  on  this  site.  The  exterior  walls  are  adorned  with 
brick  pilasters.  In  the  rear  is  a  two-story  brick  addition.  The  congregation 
of  this  church,  organized  in  1756,  is  the  oldest  in  Mecklenburg  County. 

Here  is  a  marker  to  Capt.  Joseph  Graham  (1759-1836),  who  was  wounded 
(1780)  in  a  skirmish  with  the  British  at  this  crossroads  in  the  retreat  from 
the  Battle  of  Charlotte  (see  charlotte).  Captain  Graham,  although  left  for 
dead,  was  cared  for  overnight  by  Mrs.  Susan  Alexander,  who  found  him  at 
the  spring  where  he  had  crawled  to  drink  and  bathe  his  wounds.  The  fol- 
lowing night  he  returned  to  his  own  home  on  horseback,  and  within  two 
months  had  recovered  sufficiently  to  rejoin  his  command.  Captain  Graham's 
Revolutionary  reminiscences  include  an  account,  from  memory,  of  the  adop- 
tion of  the  Mecklenburg  Declaration  (see  history). 


TOUR     12 

CHARLOTTE,  139  m.  (732  alt.,  82,675  pop.)  (see  charlotte). 


381 


Points  of  Interest:  Independence  Square,  First  Presbyterian  Church,  Site  of  Confederate 
Navy  Yard,  Mint  Museum,  Martin  Cannon  Residence,  and  others. 

Charlotte  is  at  the  junction  with  US  21  (see  tour  16),  US  74  (see  tour 
3/),  and  State  27  (see  tours  J2  and  19A). 


TOUR       13 


(Ridgeway,  Va.) — Greensboro — Asheboro — Rockingham;  US  220.  Virginia 
Line — Rockingham,  123  m. 

Norfolk   &  Western  Ry.  parallels  route  between  Price  and  Madison;   Atlantic  &  Yadkin 
R.R.   between  Madison  and   Greensboro;  High  Point,  Randleman,   Asheboro  &  Southern 
R.R.  between  Randleman  and  Asheboro;  Norfolk  Southern  R.R.  between  Asheboro  and 
Ellerbe.  Roadbed  paved  throughout. 
Hotels  in  towns;  tourist  homes  and  camps  along  the  highway. 

This  route,  traversing  the  heart  of  the  industrial  Piedmont  in  an  almost 
straight  line,  drops  from  hills  astir  with  busy  mills  to  flat  sandy  stretches 
of  peach  orchards. 

US  220  crosses  the  State  Line,  0  m.,  4  miles  south  of  Ridgeway,  Va.  {see 
va.  tour  21).  PRICE,  0.5  m.  (1,003  a^-'  47  P°P-)>  hes  m  a  bright-leaf 
tobacco-growing  section  and  is  a  shipping  point  for  hardwood  timber. 

At  2  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  county  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  MATRIMONY  CREEK,  5  m.,  which  runs  through  a  section 
referred  to  as  the  MEADOWS,  being  a  part  of  the  land  granted  to  the  North  Carolina 
surveyors  for  their  service  in  running  the  North  CaroJina-Virginia  Line  and  bought  from 
them  by  Col.  William  Byrd  (see  tour  1a).  The  tract  embraced  20,000  acres  in  the 
valley  of  the  Dan,  which  Byrd  referred  to  as  "an  Eden  land  ...  a  land  of  milk  and 
honey  ...  a  place  where  everything  grows  plentiful  to  supply  the  wants  of  man."  How- 
ever, the  story  is  that  he  held  it  so  lightly  that  he  lost  the  land  on  one  turn  of  the  cards. 

In  his  History  of  the  Dividing  Line  Colonel  Byrd  wrote:  "About  four  Miles  beyond  the 
River  Irvin  (now  Smith),  we  forded  Matrimony  Creek,  call'd  so  by  an  unfortunate 
marry'd  man,  because  it  was  exceedingly  noisy  and  impetuous.  However,  tho'  the  Stream 
was  clamorous,  yet,  like  those  Women  who  make  themselves  plainest  heard,  it  was  like- 
wise clear  and  unsully'd." 

STONEVILLE,  5  m.  (990  alt.,  564  pop.),  has  a  furniture  factory,  a  cotton 
mill,  and  several  tobacco  warehouses. 

Left  from  Stoneville  on  paved  State  770  is  LEAKSVILLE-SPRAY,  9  m.  (700  alt., 
5,088  pop.),  two  towns  connected  by  a  mile-long  boulevard,  but  considered  one  com- 
munity because  their  textile  and  manufacturing  interests  are  identical.  DRAPER,  15  m. 
(1,020  pop.),  is  a  third  town  in  the  Leaksville-Spray  combination.  In  these  towns  are 
three  locally  owned  mills  and  ten  of  Marshall  Field  Co.'s  plants  manufacturing  bed- 
ding, curtains,  woolen  goods,  and  the  Karstan  American-Oriental  rugs.  The  Field  units 
employ  about  5,500  people  and  at  Spray  maintain  central  offices  for  their  manufacturing 
interests. 

An  inexpensive  process  for  manufacturing  calcium  carbide,  from  which  acetylene  gas 
is  made,  was  discovered  at  Spray  in  1892  by  Thomas  L.  Willson,  a  Canadian. 

US  220  crosses  the  Mayo  River  at  8.5  m.,  then  parallels  it  for  several 
miles. 

382 


TOUR     13  383 

MAYODAN,  10  m.  (594  alt.,  1,948  pop.),  a  cotton-mill  town  on  the 
summit  of  Cedar  Point  Mountain,  is  named  for  the  Mayo  and  Dan  Rivers. 
The  Washington  Cotton  Mills  have  a  daily  output  of  200,000  dozen  suits 
of  knit  underwear. 

MADISON,  11.5  m.  (577  alt.,  1,497  pop.),  is  a  market  town  for  an 
agricultural  region.  It  was  laid  out  in  181 8  by  Randolph  Duke  Scales  and 
named  for  President  James  Madison  who  had  relatives  living  nearby  on 
Mayo  River.  About  18 12  the  Roanoke  Transportation  Co.,  organized  by 
eastern  capitalists  to  make  the  Dan  navigable  thus  far,  created  a  boom  in 
real  estate. 

Boxwoods  {private),  Academy  St.,  built  in  1804  by  Randolph  Duke 
Scales,  is  a  much  remodeled  red  brick  mansion,  two  and  a  half  stories  high. 
An  addition  has  been  built  on  the  north  end.  The  house  stands  upon  an 
eminence  overlooking  the  Dan  River  and  the  fields  where  the  owner  used 
to  watch  his  slaves  at  work.  The  doorway  in  the  original  front  of  the  house 
has  a  fanlight  and  reeded  ornamentations.  In  1846  Scales  left  the  house, 
then  called  Rural  Retreat,  upon  a  sudden  impulse,  and  with  his  family  and 
slaves  moved  to  Mississippi. 

Madison  is  at  the  junction  with  US  311  {see  tour  14). 

At  12.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  704. 

Left  on  State  704  to  Mulberry  Island  Farm  (private),  6  m.  The  white-painted  man- 
sion with  its  columned  veranda  is  surrounded  by  pines  and  oaks.  On  the  1,104-acre  estate 
is  a  stable  for  show  horses.  The  house  was  built  by  Judge  Thomas  Settle  (1831-88),  a 
member  of  the  North  Carolina  Supreme  Court  during  the  Reconstruction  period. 

Moores  Knob  (R)  and  Hanging  Rock  (R),  of  the  Sauratown  Mountains, 
are  conspicuous  from  the  highway  at  17  m. 

At  20.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  158  {see  tour  24b). 

At  25.5  m.  is  a  junction  with  State  703  and  with  an  unnumbered  road. 

At  the  SW.  corner  of  the  crossroads  is  an  Old  Brick  House  {private), 
dated  1790  by  a  deed. 

1.  Right  on  paved  State  703  to  the  Old  Sanders  House  (private),  1  m.,  a  two-story, 
four-room  house,   built  in    1815,  faced    with  the  original  beaded   weatherboarding.   The  (J 
brick  chimney  at  the  right  end  of  the  house  is  laid  in  Flemish  bond  with  glazed  headers 

in   a  diamond   pattern.   The    exterior   has   been  altered   past  recognition   with   a   central 

gable  and  brackets  and  a  modern  porch  and  door.  The  most  notable  original   features 

are  wide  tongued   and  grooved   wall   boards,    12-light  windows,    and   HL  hinges.   This 

house    was   once   Hezekiah   Sanders'    inn   where    stagecoaches   changed    horses.    In    1822  II 

Sydney  Porter  of  New  England  breakfasted  here,  and  remained  for  a  while  to  teach  in  a 

community  school.  Later  he  moved  his  family  to  Greensboro,  where  his  son,  O.  Henry, 

was  born. 

2.  Left  on  the  unnumbered  road,  paved  for  1.5  miles,  to  (R)  the  Reid  House  (private), 
4  m.,  built  about  181 6.  The  original  beaded  weatherboarding  and,  beneath  a  modern 
porch,  a  doorway  with  a  semicircular  fanlight  have  been  preserved.  The  fireplace  mantel 
is  notable  for  the  graduated  moldings,  which  evidently  were  carved  according  to  the 
caprice  of  a  local  artisan. 


384  TOURS 

SUMMERFIELD,  26.5  m.  (881  alt.,  400  pop.),  was  originally  called 
Bruce's  Crossroads  for  Charles  Bruce  who  owned  the  site,  but  in  1 812  it  was 
named  Summerfield  in  honor  of  a  visiting  evangelist. 

The  Bruce  Plantation  was  the  Colonial  homestead  of  Charles  Bruce,  a 
member  of  the  committee  that  framed  the  North  Carolina  Constitution  and 
organized  the  State  of  North  Carolina.  His  home  served  as  the  meeting 
place  of  the  Friends  of  Liberty  prior  to  the  Revolutionary  War.  During  a 
skirmish  between  "Light  Horse  Harry"  Lee  and  Colonel  Tarleton,  Feb.  12, 
1781,  Lee's  bugler,  a  boy  named  Gillis,  was  killed.  He  is  buried  here  in  the 
Bruce  family  graveyard.  The  British  soldiers  who  slew  this  unarmed  boy 
were  later  captured,  executed,  and  buried  near  the  crossroads. 

After  his  home  had  been  destroyed  by  the  British  following  the  Battle  of 
Guilford  Courthouse,  Bruce  built  another  house  on  this  site.  Andrew  Jack- 
son in  1787  read  law  at  the  Bruce  home;  he  received  his  license  to  practice 
and  became  constable  before  departing  for  Tennessee.  While  in  Guilford, 
Jackson  is  said  to  have  enjoyed  the  sports  of  cock  fighting  and  horse  racing. 
Near  Summerfield  were  his  racing  paths,  now  a  part  of  the  Guilford  Battle- 
ground Park. 

In  front  of  the  Summerfield  public  school  building  is  a  Memorial  to 
Charles  Bruce  and  Young  Gillis. 

Albion  Tourgee,  who  came  to  North  Carolina  from  New  York,  drew  his 
character  of  the  Negro  blacksmith  in  A  Fool's  Errand  from  an  ex-slave  on 
the  Purcell  plantation  in  this  vicinity. 

The  Old  McNary  House  (R),  31  m.,  was  built  about  1761  by  Francis 
McNairy,  a  Revolutionary  patriot.  Judge  John  McNairy,  associate  of  Andrew 
Jackson,  was  born  here.  The  house,  narrow  in  proportion  to  its  height, 
is  weatherboarded  but  probably  had  simple  flat  siding  of  wide  boards,  some 
of  which  are  visible  around  the  entrance.  There  are  two  small  rooms  on  each 
of  the  two  floors,  and  the  boards  of  the  inside  walls  are  finely  tongued  and 
grooved.  In  the  lower  left  room  is  a  fireplace  unusually  elaborate  for  so 
modest  a  building,  with  the  design  composed  entirely  of  reeded  paneling. 

At  32.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  LAKE  BRANDT  (stocked  with  perch,  bream),  2  m.,  source  of 
Greensboro's  water  supply. 

US  220  at  33  m.  enters  the  119-acre  GUILFORD  COURTHOUSE  NA- 
TIONAL MILITARY  PARK,  scene  of  the  Battle  of  Guilford  Courthouse 
on  Mar.  15,  1781.  Here,  between  Hunting  and  "Horse  Pen  Creeks,  Corn- 
wallis'  2,000  trained  soldiers  met  the  Americans  under  Gen.  Nathanael 
Greene,  1,420  veterans  and  2,984  raw  recruits.  Though  Cornvvallis  held  the 
field,  Connor  says  that  Greene's  men  "outmarched,  outmaneuvered,  and  out- 
fought their  better-equipped  adversaries,"  and  the  encounter  so  crippled  the 
British  that  it  paved  the  way  for  the  surrender  at  Yorktown.  After  the  Revo- 
lution the  settlement  at  Guilford  Courthouse  was  named  Martinsville  in 
honor  of  Alexander  Martin,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1782-85,  1789-92), 
and  one  of  North  Carolina's  five  delegates  to  the  Constitutional  Convention 
at  Philadelphia  in  1787. 


TOUR    13  385 

Within  the  park  are  monuments  to  many  Revolutionary  heroes.  The  Gen- 
eral Greene  Memorial  is  an  equestrian  statue,  modeled  by  Francis  Herman 
Packer  and  erected  by  the  U.  S.  Government  in  1915.  The  statue  is  mounted 
on  a  granite  shaft  surrounded  by  a  granite  platform.  The  Monument  to 
Mrs.  Kerenhappuch  Turner,  a  life-size  bronze  figure  of  a  woman,  is  one 
of  the  first  erected  in  America  to  a  Revolutionary  heroine  (1902).  Mrs. 
Turner  rode  horseback  from  Maryland  to  North  Carolina  to  nurse  a  wounded 
son. 

The  Colonial  Column  has  four  large  shields  bearing  historic  items,  a 
bronze  figure  representing  a  Continental  soldier,  and  a  tablet  portraying 
a  man  with  a  rope  around  his  neck  representing  the  Regulators  hanged 
after  the  Battle  of  Alamance  (see  tour  25).  The  Holt  Monument,  erected 
in  1893  by  Gov.  Thomas  M.  Holt,  honors  the  North  Carolina  troops  under 
Maj.  Joseph  Winston  who  remained  fighting  the  Hessians  and  Tarleton's 
cavalry  after  the  Continental  Line  had  withdrawn  from  the  battle.  The 
Maryland  Monument,  a  rough  granite  shaft  bearing  the  State  seal,  was 
presented  by  the  historical  society  of  that  State  in  memory  of  the  Maryland 
soldiers  who  fell  here. 

Other  monuments  honor  John  Penn  and  William  Hooper,  North  Caro- 
lina signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  whose  remains  were  rein- 
terred  here  in  1894;  Gillis,  the  bugler,  and  Judge  David  Schenck,  who 
organized  the  Guilford  Battle  Ground  Co.  in  1887.  In  1917  this  company 
deeded  to  the  Federal  Government  for  a  national  military  park  the  land 
with  the  monuments.  The  Museum  (open  9-5),  in  the  administration  build- 
ing, contains  relics  of  the  Revolution.  This  two-story  brick  structure  is  in  the 
Colonial  tradition.  A  clapboard  ell  on  the  left  is  balanced  by  a  porch  on  the 
right. 

At  33.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  marked  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  270-acre  GREENSBORO  COUNTRY  PARK,  0.8  m.,  a  recreational 
development  (water  sports)  lying  on  both  sides  of  Hunting  Creek,  adjoining  the  Guilford 
Courthouse  Park  boundary. 

GREENSBORO,  39  m.  (838  alt.,  53,569  pop.)  (see  greensboro). 

Points  of  Interest:  Jefferson  Standard  Building,  Greensboro  College,  Woman's  College 
of  the  University  of  North  Carolina,  Cone  Textile  Mills,  and  others. 

Greensboro  is  at  the  junction  with  US  421  (see  tours  2^  and  29),  US  70  ( 

(see  tour  2^),  and  US  29  (see  tour  12). 

RANDLEMAN,  59.3  m.  (717  alt.,  1,863  P°P-)>  is  a  textile  and  hosiery 
manufacturing  center.  It  also  was  the  home  of  Naomi  Wise,  whose  murder 
at  Naomi  Bridge  about  1800  by  her  treacherous  lover  furnished  the  theme 
for  the  ballad,  the  Sorrowful  Fate  of  Naomi  Wise. 

South  of  Randleman  the  route  traverses  a  hilly  region. 

At  59.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  311  (see  tour  14). 

From  this  point  there  is  a  panorama  of  the  Uharie  (Uwharrie)  Mountain 
Range.  Through  the  valley  to  the  west  winds  the  Uharie  River. 


386  TOURS 

ASHEBORO,  65  m.  (879  alt.,  5,021  pop.),  seat  of  Randolph  County, 
was  named  for  Samuel  Ashe,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1795-98),  and 
the  county  for  Peyton  Randolph  of  Virginia.  When  the  county  was  formed 
in  1779,  the  site  of  the  town  was  a  wilderness.  Jesse  Henley  conveyed  two 
acres  upon  which  the  first  courthouse  was  built. 

Asheboro  owes  its  industrial  importance  to  water  power  furnished  by  two 
rivers,  the  Deep  and  the  Uharie.  The  40  or  more  industrial  units  include 
hosiery  mills,  a  chemical  company,  lumber  and  furniture  plants,  box,  mat- 
tress, garter,  and  broom  factories. 

This  section  was  the  home  of  the  Keyauwee,  the  Saponi — for  whom  the 
Deep  River  was  once  called  the  Sapong — and  several  other  small  tribes  of 
Indians  before  the  coming  of  the  white  man.  The  Indian  Trading  Path  be- 
tween Virginia  and  Salisbury  passed  just  north  of  Asheboro.  Along  this  path 
near  Shepherd  Mountain  the  site  of  an  Indian  village  was  discovered  and 
the  burial  ground  nearby  excavated  in  1936.  Numerous  skeletons,  weapons, 
and  other  artifacts  found  are  on  display  at  the  University  of  North  Carolina 
{see  chapel  hill). 

The  first  white  settlers  in  this  region  are  believed  to  have  been  Germans 
fleeing  from  the  wars  of  Europe  about  1740.  Shortly  thereafter  came  English, 
Irish,  and  Scotch,  the  latter  in  the  greater  numbers.  The  annual  field  trials 
{late  Sept.)  of  the  Fox  Hunters  Association  of  North  Carolina  and  a  bench 
show  for  fox  hounds  are  held  here.  Fox  hunts  are  held  in  the  Uharie  Moun- 
tains to  the  southwest. 

At  68.5  m.  are  the  Randolph  County  Fairgrounds  where  an  annual  fair 
is  held  in  October. 

At  78.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  paved  State  705. 

Left  on  State  705  to  the  junction  with  a  marked  dirt  road,  6  m. ;  L.  2.8  m.  on  this 
road  to  JUGTOWN,  noted  for  its  pottery.  Here  the  clay  mixer  is  turned  by  a  mule  and 
the  old-fashioned  kick  wheel  is  still  in  use.  The  "red  ware,"  really  a  bright  orange,  is 
a  soft  burn  and  adapted  to  cooking.  Transparent  as  well  as  colored  glazes  are  employed. 

At  80.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  Cole's  Pottery,  3.5  m.,  one  of  the  oldest  in  North  Carolina, 
and  known  for  unusual  glazes. 

BISCOE,  91.5  m.  (609  alt.,  819  pop.),  is  the  market  town  for  a  peach- 
orchard  region;  here  during  July  and  August  many  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren find  employment  in  picking  and  packing  the  fruit.  From  the  highway 
miles  of  orchards  stretch  in  orderly  array. 

Biscoe  is  at  the  junction  with  US  27  {see  tour  32). 

CANDOR,  96.5  m.  (729  alt.,  462  pop.),  is  the  marketing  center  for  the 
peach  growers  of  the  region  that  extends  west  to  Aberdeen  and  south  to 
Rockingham  {see  tour  jb).  Here  in  1928  the  first  commercially  successful 
peach  orchard  in  this  area  was  planted  by  M.  R.  Clark,  who  set  out  30,000 
trees  a  mile  from  the  town.  More  than  200  orchards  have  since  that  time 
grown  to  maturity.  It  is  estimated  that  1,200,000  trees  grow  in  the  district. 


TOUR    13  387 

Their  blossoms  {late  Mar.  and  early  Apr.)  delight  visitors.  Gold  was  for- 
merly mined  at  Candor,  and  the  region  yields  excellent  pottery  clay. 

Left  from  Candor  on  State  2  is  SAMARCAND,  4  m.  (698  alt.,  125  pop.),  the  North 
Carolina  State  Home  and  Industrial  School  for  Girls  and  Women.  Sand  in  my  Shoes  by 
Katherine  Ball  Ripley  (1931)  recounts  the  experiences  of  the  author  on  a  peach  orchard 
near  Samarcand. 

NORMAN,  107.5  m.  (210  alt.,  240  pop.),  containing  a  large  lumber 
mill,  is  a  marketing  town  for  an  agricultural  section.  It  was  originally  called 
Fair  Grounds  for  the  fairs  and  horse  races  held  here.  The  bank,  lacking 
police  protection,  was  held  up  so  often  that  it  has  been  converted  into  a  cafe. 

At  112  m.  is  ELLERBE  SPRINGS  {small  hotel,  swimming  pool,  picnic 
grounds  open  ]une  to  Oct.),  one  of  the  old  health  resorts  of  the  State,  once 
a  mecca  for  those  suffering  from  asthma  and  hay  fever. 

ELLERBE,  113  m.  (253  alt.,  615  pop.),  has  a  hosiery  mill  and  several 
cotton  gins.  At  the  Ellerbe  Public  School,  a  modern  brick  structure,  the 
students  operate  a  store  and  a  printing  plant,  direct  a  cooperative  produce 
market,  and  maintain  a  nursery  from  which  they  have  beautified  the  school 
grounds  and  many  homes  in  the  vicinity.  They  have  also  built  their  own 
clubhouse  and  tennis  courts. 

ROCKINGHAM,  123  m.  (210  alt.,  2,906  pop.)  {see  tour  jb),  is  at  the 
junction  with  US  1  {see  tour  yb)  and  US  74  {see  tour  31b). 


TOUR       14 


Madison — Winston-Salem — High  Point — Junction  with  US  220;  US  311. 
65  m. 

Norfolk  &  Western  Ry.  parallels  route  between  Madison  and  Winston-Salem;  High  Point, 

Randleman,  Asheboro  &  Southern  R.R.  between  High  Point  and  Sophia. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  cities  and  towns;  tourist  homes  along  the  route. 

Between  Madison  and  High  Point  this  route  penetrates  an  agricultural 
section  whose  rolling  fields  are  rimmed  by  the  distant  Sauratown  Moun- 
tains. Through  a  region  of  once-popular  mineral  springs,  the  highway  enters 
the  industrial  area  of  Winston-Salem  and  High  Point.  This  stretch  is  typical 
of  the  Piedmont  section,  where  the  warp  of  the  economic  structure  is  agri- 
culture and  the  woof  industry. 

Southwest  of  MADISON,  0  m.  (see  tour  13),  stretches  of  woodland 
break  the  monotony  of  the  small  but  thrifty  farms,  with  their  chinked-log 
tobacco  barns. 

Between  5  m.  and  9  m.  the  route  runs  through  the  fertile  bottom  lands 
of  the  Dan  River. 

At  6.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  772. 

Left  on  State  772  is  PINE  HALL,  2  m.  (579  alt.,  400  pop.),  site  of  one  of  the  largest 
plants  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  face  brick  and  clay  products  in  the  State. 

Just  south  of  the  DAN  RIVER  PARK  (swimming,  picnicking),  9.6  m., 
a  recreational  area  lying  on  a  hilltop,  the  highway  crosses  the  river  and  low- 
lying  cornfields. 

At  12.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  89  (see  tour  14A). 

WALNUT  COVE,  13  m.  (634  alt.,  1,081  pop.),  was  first  called  Lash 
for  Dr.  William  A.  Lash  upon  whose  land  the  town  was  platted.  The  three- 
story,  18-room  brick  Lash  House  stands  a  half-mile  to  the  right  of  the 
center  of  town.  The  colored  glass  windows,  bell-shaped  turret  covered  with 
shingles,  and  jigsaw  scrollwork  in  the  gables  belong  to  the  period  following 
the  War  between  the  States.  The  chief  industrial  establishment  is  a  veneer 
plant. 

Southwest  of  WALKERTOWN,  22.5  m.  (982  alt.,  410  pop.),  US  311 
runs  through  a  section  of  small  homes.  Many  are  occupied  by  industrial 
workers  employed  in  Winston-Salem. 


iirt 


TOUR     14  389 

WINSTON-SALEM,  30  m.  (884  alt.,  75,274  pop.)  (see  winston-salem). 

Points  of  Interest:  Wachovia  Museum,  Brothers  House,  Home  Moravian  Church,  Salem 
College,  R.  J.  Reynolds  Tobacco  Plant,  and  others. 

Winston-Salem  is  at  the  junction  with  US  52  (see  tour  13a),  US  421  (see 
tour  25),  and  US  158  (see  tour  24b). 

Southeast  of  Winston-Salem  US  311  runs  through  an  area  where  crops 
are  diversified  and  many  of  the  farmers  supplement  their  incomes  by  employ- 
ment in  nearby  industrial  towns. 

At  48  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  68. 

Left  on  State  68  to  Deep  River  Quaker  Meetinghouse,  5  m.,  a  simple,  boxlike  brick 
structure,  five  bays  long,  with  segmental-arched  windows.  A  chimney  occupies  the  usual 
position  of  a  tower.  The  meeting  was  organized  in  1758  and  the  earliest  church  on  this 
site,  erected  in  1778,  was  used  until  1875  when  the  present  building  was  erected. 

HIGH  POINT,  49  m.  (935  alt.,  36,745  pop.)  (see  high  point). 

Points  of  Interest:  Tomlinson  Furniture  Plant,  Southern  Furniture  Exposition  Build- 
ing, High  Point  College,  Blair  Park,  and  others. 

High  Point  is  at  the  junction  with  US  29-70  (see  tour  12). 

At  51  m.,  just  outside  the  corporate  limits,  is  the  junction  with  the  d 
Springfield  Rd. 

Left  on  the  Springfield  Rd.  to  the  Springfield  Friends  Meetinghouse  (apply  to 
curator),  0.5  m.  The  grounds,  shaded  by  old  trees,  are  entered  through  a  memorial 
gateway.  The  meeting  was  organized  in  1773.  The  modern  building  (1926),  the  fourth 
here,  is  of  red  brick  fronted  with  a  portico  whose  columns  are  in  pairs.  It  is  connected 
by  a  colonnade  to  the  low,  one-story,  ivy-clad  church  built  of  hand-made  bricks  in  1858. 
Inside  this  plain  rectangular  building  (now  a  museum)  are  the  old  shutters  used  to 
separate  the  sexes.  Exhibits  include  Indian  relics  and  mementos  of  early  American  rural 
life,  as  well  as  trophies  of  the  Revolutionary  War  and  the  War  between  the  States. 

In  the  cemetery  is  the  Grave  of  John  Brasleton,  a  British  soldier  fatally  wounded  in 
the  Battle  of  Guilford  Courthouse  (see  tour  13).  A  Revolutionary  patriot,  Enos  Blair, 
is  also  buried  here  with  his  12  children. 

Adjoining  the  Springfield  Meetinghouse  are  the  lands  of  a  Model  Farm,  1  m.  Balti- 
more Friends,  distressed  by  conditions  in  the  South  after  the  War  between  the  States, 
purchased  a  tract  of  200  acres,  erected  a  dwelling  and  barn  and  stocked  the  farm  with 
blooded  cattle,  sheep,  and  hogs.  The  rebuilding  of  soil  by  planting  of  cover  crops  was 
stressed.  Within  three  years  the  Model  Farm  was  revolutionizing  agricultural  methods 
in  the  vicinity.  A  part  of  the  original  plantation,  within  the  city  limits  of  High  Point 
and  privately  owned,  still  operates  as  the  Model  Farm.  The  white  frame  farmhouse, 
erected  (1868)  by  the  Friends,  stands  in  a  grove  of  oaks. 

South  of  High  Point  US  311  follows  the  route  of  several  old  roads.  This 
was  originally  the  Indian  Trail  from  the  upper  Yadkin  to  the  Atlantic 
Ocean.  Then  it  was  used  by  the  Moravians  at  Salem  as  a  wagon  road  (see 
winston-salem).  A  century  later  it  became  the  Fayetteville  and  Western 
Plank  Rd.,  whose  130-mile  stretch  was  the  longest  ever  constructed  in  the 
State  (see  high  point).  The  plank  roads  fell  into  decay  during  the  War 
between  the  States  and  were  practically  abandoned  during  Reconstruction 
days. 


390  TOURS 

At  the  junction  with  State  610,  51.7  m.  (L)  is  part  of  what  was  Hunt's 
Tavern  {private),  a  two-story  weatherboarded  building,  narrow  in  propor- 
tion to  its  height,  believed  to  have  been  erected  about  1830.  Notable  decora- 
tive features  are  the  wrought-iron  strap  hinges — 2-inch  bars  nearly  the  width 
of  the  front  door,  tapering  and  terminating  in  a  leaf  motif.  Inside  is  a  fire- 
place with  a  broad  segmental  arch  and  paneled  over-mantel.  The  tavern  is 
in  what  was  Bloomington,  a  village  on  the  Plank  Road.  Before  the  railroad 
was  built  to  High  Point  in  1855  the  tavern's  capacity  was  always  taxed.  Part 
of  the  building  was  torn  down,  later  the  remainder  was  added  to,  making 
the  present  building. 

The  Ragan  House  (private),  a  frame  dwelling  with  gingerbread  trim,  is 
on  the  site  of  a  general  store  conducted  by  Amos  Ragan,  who  was  part 
owner  of  the  tavern,  operated  the  stage  line  between  Fayetteville  and  Salem, 
and  also  had  the  mail  contract.  The  old  Post  Office  is  in  the  rear  of  the 
present  Ragan  house. 

US  311  skirts  the  edge  of  ARCHDALE,  53  m.  (971  alt.,  628  pop.),  estab- 
lished as  Bush  Hill  in  1773  by  Quakers.  In  1887  it  was  renamed  for  the 
Quaker  John  Archdale,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1694-96).  Oaks,  wil- 
lows, and  elms  shade  streets  lined  with  comfortable  little  homes.  Though  it 
formerly  had  its  own  tanneries  and  mills  it  is  now  virtually  a  residential 
suburb  of  High  Point.  From  1885  to  1889  the  North  Carolina  Prohibitionist 
was  published  here. 

Right  from  Archdale  on  State  61  is  TRINITY,  1  m.  (850  alt.,  554  pop.),  settled  in 
the  latter  part  of  the  18th  century  by  Quakers  and  Methodists.  In  front  of  the  modern 
high  school  is  the  marked  Site  of  Trinity  College,  established  here  as  Union  Insti- 
tute in  1838.  Quaker  patronage  of  the  Friends'  school  at  New  Garden  gave  Methodists 
control  of  Union  Institute,  which  became  Normal  College  in  1851,  and  Trinity  College 
in  1859.  The  school  gained  a  wide  reputation  for  scholarship  before  it  was  moved  to 
Durham  in  1892,  where  in  1924  it  became  the  nucleus  of  Duke  University  {see 
Durham). 

In  GLENOLA,  57  m.  (805  alt.,  50  pop.),  is  a  brickyard  where  fire  and 
building  brick  are  made  from  the  local  red  and  ivory  clay. 

Left  from  Glenola  on  a  dirt  road  to  a  cemetery  containing  the  Grave  of  Martha  Bell, 
2  m.,  Revolutionary  heroine.  Nearby  was  the  plantation  and  gristmill  of  Martha's  hus- 
band, William  Bell,  first  sheriff  of  Randolph  County.  Martha  ran  both  mill  and  house 
while  he  was  with  the  American  troops. 

Legend  relates  that  when  General  Cornwallis  asked  that  he  might  make  the  Bell 
house  his  headquarters  and  use  the  mill  to  grind  corn  for  his  soldiers  Mrs.  Bell  inquired: 
"Is  it  your  intention.  General,  to  burn  the  house  and  mill  when  you  have  done  with 
them?"  He  replied  in  the  negative,  whereupon  Mrs.  Bell  remarked  that  if  he  had  any 
such  intention  she  would  burn  them  herself.  It  is  said  that  soon  after  Cornwallis'  de- 
parture, Col.  "Light  Horse  Harry"  Lee  and  Col.  William  Washington  arrived  and  asked 
her  to  learn,  if  possible,  when  Cornwallis  had  received  his  latest  reinforcements.  Riding 
into  the  British  lines  some  distance  away,  armed  with  dirk  and  pistols,  Mrs.  Bell  made 
a  thorough  check  of  the  strength  of  the  army  and  returned  to  report  her  findings  to  the 
Americans.  This  was  the  first  of  many  occasions  on  which  she  was  able  to  supply  infor- 
mation concerning  the  movements  of  the  British  in  the  vicinity. 

South  of  Glenola  the  country  is  rolling  and  the  low  hills  of  the  Uhaiie 


TOUR     14 


391 


Range  are  referred  to  locally  as  mountains.  The  farms  produce  cereals,  vege- 
tables, and  melons. 

SOPHIA,  61.5  m.  (801  alt.,  153  pop.),  was  settled  before  1779  by  Penn- 
sylvanians  of  German  ancestry.  They  named  the  town  for  the  Electress  of 
Hanover,  mother  of  George  I  of  England.  Sophia  was  established  in  the 
midst  of  hardwood  forests,  most  of  which  have  been  cut,  leaving  only  the 
smaller  oak  that  is  hewn  into  cross  ties. 

At  65  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  220  {see  tour  /j). 


TOUR       I    4   A 


Junction  with  US  311 — Danbury — Piedmont  Springs;  State  89.   11.6  m. 

Roadbed  paved  except  on  side  trips. 

State  89  branches  northwest  from  its  junction  with  US  311,  0  m.,  0.6 
miles  north  of  Walnut  Cove  (see  tour  14),  and  crosses  low  mountains,  with 
Moores  Knob  and  its  Hanging  Rock  conspicuous  on  the  L. 

From  MEADOWS,  5  m.  (50  pop.),  at  the  intersection  with  the  German- 
ton  Rd.,  is  a  striking  view  of  the  Dan  River  Valley  (R). 

DANBURY,  9  m.  (825  alt.,  300  pop.),  at  the  foot  of  the  Sauratown 
Mountains  near  the  Dan  River,  is  the  seat  of  Stokes  County,  a  quiet  little 
town  active  on  court  days.  Stokes  County,  formed  in  1789,  was  named  for 
Col.  John  Stokes,  a  Revolutionary  officer,  member  of  the  original  board  of 
trustees  of  the  University  of  North  Carolina  and  the  State's  first  Federal  dis- 
trict judge,  appointed  by  George  Washington.  He  was  a  brother  of  Mont- 
fort  Stokes,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1830-32). 

The  first  settlement  on  the  site  of  Danbury  was  an  Indian  village.  In  the 
1790's  an  Indian  trading  post  here  was  called  Crawford.  This  became  a 
frontier  town  with  flourishing  barrooms,  and  on  pay  days  was  a  boisterous 
spot. 

Before  the  War  between  the  States  an  iron  foundry  operated  here  at  full 
blast;  limekilns  and  mica  mines  were  active,  and  Government  distilleries 
and  a  tobacco-manufacturing  concern  employed  many  men.  In  1852  the  com- 
missioners, appointed  to  select  a  more  centrally  situated  county  seat  than 
Germanton,  chose  a  flat  ridge  near  Cascade  Falls.  On  their  way  home  from 
that  expedition  they  stopped  at  the  old  Moody  Tavern  in  Crawford  and 
decided  to  compliment  the  tavern  or  its  whisky  by  moving  the  courthouse 
here  and  calling  the  town  Danbury. 

North  Carolina's  "tribute  block"  in  the  Washington  Monument  (built 
1848-84)  in  the  National  Capital  was  quarried  in  Stokes  County  near  Dan- 
bury, taken  by  wagon  to  Fayetteville  and  by  water  to  Washington. 

Standing  on  a  high  bank  overlooking  the  highway  is  (R)  the  Brick 
House,  built  in  the  early  1800's  by  Winston  Fulton,  who  for  many  years 
operated  a  tanyard  in  the  town.  It  has  three  stories,  10  rooms,  and  a  broad 
porch.  An  account  book  used  by  Fulton  gives  side  lights  on  trade  from  1850 
to  1855.  Payment  was  usually  made  in  labor  or  with  barrels  of  apples,  pounds 
of  wool,  deer  skins,  and  other  commodities. 

The  first  courthouse,  built  shortly  after  1849  when  Forsyth  County  was 
separated  from  Stokes,  was  replaced  in  1904  by  the  present  Stokes  County 

392 


tour   1 4  a  393 

Courthouse,  a  brick  building  in  the  center  of  a  shady  square  surrounded 
by  old  houses.  The  Moody  Tavern  {private),  beside  the  courthouse,  was 
built  about  1841.  It  is  a  long,  narrow,  three-storied,  weatherboarded  struc- 
ture with  a  two-storied  veranda  across  the  wide  front  elevation. 

Right  from  Danbury  on  a  dirt  road  to  the  Rogers  Magnetic  Iron  Ore  Deposits, 
2.5  m.,  near  the  Dan  River.  Here  during  the  War  between  the  States  the  Confederate 
Government  mined  ore  and  shipped  it  down  the  river  to  a  furnace  near  Danbury.  General 
Stoneman  and  his  Union  cavalrymen  halted  the  enterprise.  The  mine  was  again  in  opera- 
tion in  1939.  The  old  furnace,  built  of  local  stone,  remains.  A  tram  that  ran  on  rails, 
similar  to  the  one  used  in  building  the  State  capitol  in  Raleigh,  brought  stone  from  a 
nearby  quarry  for  construction  of  the  furnace. 

At  11.6  m.  is  the  PIEDMONT  SPRINGS  settlement,  at  the  junction  with 
a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  once-fashionable  Piedmont  Springs,  0.2  m.  (L),  marked  by 
an  abandoned  pavilion  and  a  broken  fountain. 

At  1.9  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  0.5  m.  on  this  road  to  HANGING  ROCK  STATE  PARK  (boating,  swimming, 
fishing,  camping),  a  recreational  area  of  3,096  acres  in  the  heart  of  the  Sauratown 
Mountains.  The  land,  given  by  interested  citizens,  lies  wholly  within  a  40,000-acre  State 
game  preserve.  The  formation  for  which  the  park  was  named  is  a  point  of  solid  rock 
at  the  end  of  a  long  ridge  with  a  perpendicular  drop  of  175  feet.  A  15-acre  lake,  foot 
and  bridle  trails,  and  motor  roads  were  completed  in  1938. 

Behind  the  park  Administrative  Offices  (guides  available)  a  footpath  runs  to  the 
Cascade  Falls.  Beyond  the  falls  a  road  passes  Cooks  Wall  which,  though  a  natural 
formation,  appears  to  have  been  man-made.  The  road  ascends  Moores  Knob  (2,585  alt.). 
Nearby  is  a  deposit  of  flexible  sandstone,  itacolumite,  found  also  in  Brazil. 

At  5.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  another  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  0.5  m.  to  VADE  MECUM  SPRINGS  (1,800  alt.,  55  pop.).  The 
alkaline  water  is  similar  to  that  of  Carlsbad.  The  property  is  now  leased  by  the  Episcopal 
Church  for  a  summer  camp.  An  Indian  legend  tells  that  Nikawita,  who  loved  Nanlahwah, 
was  banished  by  Nanlahwah's  chieftain  father  because  he  favored  another  warrior, 
Dhonide.  Nikawita,  however,  returned  and  the  maiden  met  him  at  the  spring.  As  they 
embraced,  Dhonide's  arrow  pierced  Nikawita's  temple.  When  Dhonide  emerged  from 
his  hiding  place  to  take  the  girl,  the  waters  of  the  stream  rose,  engulfed  the  spring,  and 
carried  the  two  to  their  deaths.  Hence  the  name,  Vade  Mecum  (Lat.,  go  with  me).  As 
long  as  the  Saura  Indians  remained  in  these  mountains  the  stream  flowed  over  the 
spring,  thus  denying  the  tribe  the  curative  waters  in  punishment  for  the  sacrilege  com- 
mitted on  its  banks.  About  i860  the  course  of  the  stream  was  diverted  and  spring  re- 
claimed. 

At  8  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  66  near  GAP  (see  tour  15). 

,1 


TOUR 


(Hillsville,      Va.) — Winston-Salem — Salisbury — Albemarle — (Cheraw,      S. 

C.);US52. 

Virginia  Line — South  Carolina  Line,  155  m. 

Atlantic  &  Yadkin  R.R.  parallels  the  route  between  Mount  Airy  and  Rural  Hall;  Southern 

Ry.    between    Rural   Hall   and    Winston-Salem,    and    between    Lexington    and    Salisbury; 

Winston-Salem   Southbound   R.R.   between  Winston-Salem  and  Lexington,   and   between 

Albemarle  and  Wadesboro;  Yadkin  R.R.  between  Salisbury  and  Norwood;  Atlantic  Coast 

Line  R.R.  between  Wadesboro  and  McFarlan. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotel  accommodations  in  cities  and  towns;  tourist  homes  and  camps  along  route. 

Section  a.  VIRGINIA  LINE  to  LEXINGTON;  64  m.  US  52 

This  route  runs  through  the  Blue  Ridge  Mountains  and  the  western  half 
of  the  Piedmont  Plateau,  penetrating  sections  devoted  to  industrial  as  well 
as  agricultural  pursuits. 

Known  as  the  Fancy  Gap  Scenic  Highway,  US  52  crosses  the  North  Caro- 
lina Line,  0  m.,  17  miles  south  of  Hillsville,  Va.  (see  va.  tour  7).  Between 
the  State  Line  and  Mount  Airy,  apple  orchards  line  the  highway,  which 
makes  a  twisting  descent  into  the  "Hollow,"  a  saucerlike  depression  circled 
by  mountains. 

Lying  within  the  Hollow's  little  plateau  is  MOUNT  AIRY,  5  m.  (1,104 
alt.,  6,045  pop.),  with  homes,  stores,  post  office,  and  five  of  its  churches  con- 
structed of  the  beautiful  local  gray  granite.  Besides  its  quarry  the  town  has 
textile  mills  and  furniture  factories. 

1.  Left  from  Mount  Airy  on  State  80  to  the  Mount  Airy  Granite  Quarry  (open), 
1  m.,  one  of  the  largest  and  best-equipped  open-face  granite  quarries  in  the  world.  One 
hundred  thousand  carloads  of  granite  have  been  shipped  for  use  in  such  structures  as 
the  Wright  Memorial  at  Kitty  Hawk  (see  tour  iA),  the  Arlington  Memorial  Bridge,  and 
the  Union  Trust  Building  in  the  National  Capital.  A  single  finished  stone  often  fills 
a  flatcar. 

2.  Right  from  Mount  Airy  on  paved  US  601  through  hilly  country.  At  5.3  m.  in 
WHITE  PLAINS  (1,150  alt.,  242  pop.),  on  opposite  sides  of  Stewarts  Creek,  are  the 
Homes  of  the  Original  Siamese  Twins,  Eng  (Chinese,  right)  and  Chang  (Chinese, 
left)  Bunker.  Born  at  Bangesau,  Siam,  Apr.  15,  181 1,  of  a  Chinese  father  and  a  Siamese 
mother,  the  twins  were  connected  by  a  thick  fleshy  ligament  joining  the  lower  ends  of 
the  breastbones. 

They  were  brought  to  this  country  in  1829  by  an  American  ship  captain.  The  surname 
Bunker  was  adopted  from  a  bystander  at  the  immigration  office  when  the  twins  were 
told  they  must  have  a  family  name.  P.  T.  Barnum  exhibited  them  and  gave  them  wide  pub- 
licity. 

394 


tour   15  395 

In  1842,  in  Wilkes  County,  they  married  twin  sisters,  Sallie  and  Adelaide  Yates.  They 
later  moved  here  where  they  divided  their  time  in  three-day  periods  between  the  two 
homes  and  reared  large  families.  Many  of  their  descendants  live  in  the  community.  The 
twins  died  within  an  hour  of  each  other  in  1874  and  were  first  buried  in  the  garden  of 
one  of  the  homes.  Their  remains  were  later  moved  to  the  cemetery  of  the  Baptist  Church 
here,  where  a  double  monument  marks  the  Grave  of  the  Siamese  Twins. 

In  DOBSON,  13.8  m.  (1,265  a^->  44^  pop.),  is  the  fourth  Surry  County  Court- 
house (191 8),  a  brick  building  containing  records  complete  since  the  county  was 
formed  in  1771.  At  old  Richmond  in  the  northwest  part  of  present  Forsyth  County  was 
Surry  County's  first  courthouse  where,  on  Nov.  12,  1787,  Andrew  Jackson  was  admitted 
to  the  practice  of  law. 

On  US  601  at  14.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  graveled  road. 

Left  10.6  m.  on  this  road  to  ROCKFORD  (834  alt.,  210  pop.),  the  seat  of  Surry 
County  from  1790  until  1850.  Parts  of  the  16-inch  brick  walls  of  the  courthouse  erected 
in  the  1790's  remain.  While  attending  court  Andrew  Jackson,  the  "cock-fighting,  brief- 
less barrister,"  stopped  at  a  tavern,  whose  landlord,  after  the  Battle  of  New  Orleans, 
wrote  in  his  ledger  across  Jackson's  overdue  account:  "Paid  in  full  at  the  Battle  of 
New  Orleans." 

Southeast  of  Mount  Airy  US  52  crosses  a  hilly,  thinly  settled  countryside 
where  creek  bottoms  are  planted  with  grains  and  tobacco,  and  the  distant 
horizon  is  shadowed  by  the  bulk  of  the  Blue  Ridge.  At  7  m.  the  road  breaks 
through  a  narrow  defile  to  reveal  Pilot  Mountain  to  the  south,  Fishers  Peak 
to  the  northwest,  and  Mount  Airy  in  the  Hollow  nearby. 

PILOT  MOUNTAIN,  17  m.  (1,010  pop.),  is  the  banking  and  business 
town  of  this  section. 

At  19.5  m.  (R)  is  the  junction  with  a  graveled  private  toll  road. 

Right  on  this  road  up  PILOT  MOUNTAIN  (2,413  alt.),  a  curious  rock  formation 
rising  from  country  so  low  to  the  east  and  south  that  it  seems  to  tower  over  an  immense 
plain.  At  2  m.  is  the  tollgate  {motorists  50$  ea.,  hirers  25$  ea.).  Cars  must  be  parked 
at  the  top  of  Little  Pinnacle,  4  m.,  whence  a  footpath  leads  to  the  base  of  Big  Pin- 
nacle. There  is  a  choice  of  a  stiff  climb  up  the  cliff  or  a  ladder  to  reach  the  rock-strewn 
but  comparatively  level  summit  (camping,  picnicking;  no  water  nearer  than  the  toll- 
gate). 

On  clear  days  there  is  a  panorama  of  the  uplifts  encircling  Mount  Airy  and  an  ex- 
tensive section  of  the  Blue  Ridge.  Pilot  is  one  of  six  mountains  in  North  Carolina  bearing 
the  name.  The  Indians  called  it  Jo-Mee-O-Kee  (Ind.  the  Great  Guide),  because  it  served 
them  as  a  landmark. 

KING,  26  m.  (1,200  alt.,  416  pop.),  one  of  the  earliest  settlements  in  what 
is  now  Stokes  County,  is  the  highest  point  on  the  road  between  Mount  Airy 
and  Winston-Salem.  The  highway  in  this  region  has  been  called  successively 
King's,  Hollow,  and  Old  High  Road. 

At  30  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  66. 

Left  on  State  66  is  a  twisting  ascent  through  peaceful  farm  and  dairy  country,  with 
Pilot  Mountain's  uplift  conspicuous  (L).  At  GAP,  12  m.  (15  pop.),  where  five  billow- 
ing mountain  ranges  are  visible  on  a  clear  day,  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road  (R),  on 
which  are  several  mineral  springs  and  the  entrance  to  Hanging  Rock  State  Park  (see 
tour  14). 

At  15  m.  on  State  66  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  L.  2  m.  on  this  road  to  the 
Rock  House,  a  vine-covered  ruin  gutted  by  fire  in  1897.  ^n  1768  Col.  Jack  Martin 
settled  here  on  his  8,000-acre  grant  from  the  Crown,  and  in  1770  began  to  build  the 


396  TOURS 

Rock  House,  which  was  not  completed  for  15  years.  It  was  built  by  slave  labor  of  local 
flint  stones  with  walls  3  feet  thick.  The  huge  kitchen  fireplace  in  the  basement  was 
large  enough  to  roast  an  ox.  There  is  a  story  of  a  young  daughter  of  the  Martins  who 
was  kidnaped  and  held  for  ransom  in  a  place  known  as  Old  Tory's  Den.  She  removed 
her  petticoat  and  waved  it  frantically.  Her  father  saw  the  distress  signal  through  a 
spyglass  and  rallied  a  party  who  rescued  the  girl  and  punished  her  kidnapers. 

In  the  family  graveyard  across  the  road  is  the  Grave  of  John*  Martin,  who  came  to 
North  Carolina  with  his  parents  when  he  was  12  years  old  and  died  at  Rock  House  in 
1822.  He  was  a  Revolutionary  soldier,  member  of  the  House  of  Commons,  and  presiding 
judge  of  Stokes  County  court  for  30  years.  His  court  was  contemporaneously  termed  "an 
eternal  comedy  of  errors,"  owing  to  Martin's  droll  humor  and  occasionally  unceremonious 
procedure. 

South  of  RURAL  HALL,  31  m.  (1,002  alt.,  600  pop.),  a  crossroads  trad- 
ing center,  the  highway  pursues  a  gentle  downgrade  and  at  34  m.  so  uni- 
form is  the  slope  that  a  car  can  coast  for  a  mile  or  more. 

WINSTON-SALEM,  43  m.  (884  alt.,  75,274  pop.)  (see  winston-salem). 

Points  of  Interest:  Wachovia  Museum,  Brothers  House,  Home  Moravian  Church,  Salem 
College,  R.  J.  Reynolds  Tobacco  Plant,  and  others. 

Winston-Salem  is  at  the  junction  with  US  158  (see  tour  24b),  US  311 
(see  tour  14),  and  US  421  (see  tour  25). 

Right  from  Winston-Salem  on  the  oil-treated  Old  Salisbury  Rd.  to  the  junction  with 
a  dirt  road,  6  m. ;  R.  2  m.  on  this  road  to  the  Fri"edberg  Church,  a  white  frame  struc- 
ture erected  1823-27,  and  remodeled  in  1904.  Nothing  of  the  original  building  is  in 
evidence  except  a  part  of  the  stone  foundations.  The  first  meetinghouse  of  Friedberg 
Church  was  consecrated  on  Mar.  11,  1769,  and  the  first  resident  minister  was  appointed 
the  following  year. 

At  2.5  m.  on  the  dirt  road  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  lane;  L.  0.5  m.  up  the  lane  to 
the  Adam  Spach  House,  the  walls  of  which  are  standing.  It  is  owned  by  the  Wachovia 
Historical  Society.  When  erected  by  Adam  Spach  it  was  evidently  intended  to  withstand 
Indian  attacks.  The  house,  built  of  uncut  stones  laid  without  mortar,  was  only  one  story 
in  height  with  a  full  basement  and  a  small  attic.  A  spring  beneath  provided  water  in 
case  of  siege  and  there  was  sufficient  room  in  the  basement  for  the  cattle.  Every  room 
contained  loopholes  through  which  muskets  could  be  fired  when  the  shutters  were 
barred. 

Adam  Spach,  a  native  of  PfafTenheim,  Alsace,  settled  here,  about  3  miles  south  of  the 
Wachovia  line,  in  1754.  During  the  Indian  war  he  took  refuge  in  the  fort  at  Bethabara 
and  afterwards  had  the  Brethren  come  to  his  home  to  hold  services.  This  they  did  until 
1766  when  families  of  Moravians  from  Pennsylvania  had  settled  in  the  section  in  suffi- 
cient numbers  to  form  the  Friedberg  congregation. 

ERLANGER,  62  m.  (806  ah.,  500  pop.),  is  a  company  town  owned  by 
the  Erlanger  Cotton  Mills,  producers  of  piece  goods  and  labels.  Facilities 
include  playgrounds,  athletic  fields,  day  nursery,  kindergarten,  grade  school, 
community  center,  Y.M.C.A.,  churches,  and  dairy. 

LEXINGTON,  64  m.  (809  alt.,  9,652  pop.)  (see  tour  12),  is  at  the  junc- 
tion with  US  64  (see  tour  26b),  and  US  29  (see  tour  12),  which  unites  with 
US  52  between  this  point  and  Salisbury  (see  tour  12). 


tour  15  397 

1 
Section  b.  SALISBURY  to  SOUTH  CAROLINA  LINE;  74  m.  US  52 

Granite  quarries,  gold  and  copper  mines,  mills,  and  cotton  gins  mark  this 
portion  of  the  Piedmont  Plateau.  Much  of  the  hilly  terrain  is  cut  by  rapid 
rivers,  which  furnish  abundant  hydroelectric  power. 

SALISBURY,  0  m.  (764  alt.,  16,951  pop.)  (see  tour  12),  is  at  the  junc- 
tion with  US  29  (see  tour  12). 

GRANITE  QUARRY,  4.5  m.  (802  alt.,  507  pop.),  is  a  wayside  village 
in  one  of  the  State's  leading  granite-producing  areas. 

Left  from  Granite  Quarry  on  a  dirt  road,  marked  Dunn's  Mountain  Church,  to  the 
Old  Stone  House  {open),  1  m.,  built  by  Michael  Braun  in  1766.  This  austere  two- 
and-a-half-story  house  has  a  gable  roof  and  end  chimneys.  A  smooth  stone  set  in  the 
front  between  two  upper  windows  bears  an  inscription,  the  second  line  of  which  has 
never  been  explained: 

"MICHAEL  BRAUN-MRICHREDA-BRAU 
IO-PE-ME-BE-MI-CH-DA-1766." 

The  house,  surrounded  by  old  cedars  and  locusts,  is  on  the  crest  of  a  hill.  Its  stone  { 

walls,  2  feet  thick,  rise  two  stories  from  a  foundation  12  to   15  feet  deep.  Floor  boards  j 

a  foot  wide,  hand-carved  wainscoting  and  moldings,  and  plastered  walls  show  excellent 
workmanship,  though  most  of  the  mahogany  paneling  has  been  stripped  off  and  the 
plaster  is  covered  with  the  scrawled  names  and  initials  of  casual  picnickers.  Tradition 
relates  that  when  a  young  Continental  officer  reconnoitering  in  the  vicinity  was  pursued 
by  British  dragoons,  he  rode  straight  through  the  front  door.  The  mistress  slammed  the 
door  in  the  faces  of  his  pursuers  and  he  escaped  into  the  woods  at  the  rear.  The  house 
once  served  as  a  prison  in  which  the  British  kept  their  captives.  A  young  Colonial  soldier 
attempting  escape  had  gained  the  window  sill  when  the  guard  saw  him  and  struck  with 
his  saber.  He  missed  and  the  soldier  escaped,  but  the  saber  marks  on  the  window  casing 
are  still  visible. 

GOLD  HILL,  14.3  m.  (764  alt.,  156  pop.),  is  in  a  mining  region  where 
ten  or  more  gold-  and  copper-bearing  lodes  lie  within  an  area  of  3.5  square 
miles.  After  gold  was  discovered  in  1842,  the  place  became  a  lively  mining 
camp  of  2,000  people,  but  it  later  shrank  to  a  quiet  country  village. 

At  MISENHEIMER,  17.5  m.  (675  alt.,  250  pop.),  is  the  Pfeiffer  Junior 
College,  supervised  by  the  Woman's  Home  Missionary  Society  of  the  M.  E. 
Church.  The  five  new  buildings,  of  red  brick  joined  by  arcades,  were  the 
gift  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Henry  Pfeiffer  and  were  erected  in  1935  when  the 
name  of  the  school  was  changed  from  Ebenezer  Mitchell  Junior  College. 
The  college  owns  250  acres,  including  a  campus,  a  farm,  dairy,  poultry  yards, 
gardens,  and  peach  and  apple  orchards.  Students  exchange  their  labor  for 
part  of  their  tuition  fees.  j 

At  NEW  LONDON,  23  m.  (697  alt.,  246  pop.),  a  vein  of  gold  was  dis- 
covered in  1935. 

ALBEMARLE,  30  m.  (505  alt.,  3,493  pop.),  on  the  crest  of  a  spur  of 
the  Uharie  Range,  is  the  seat  of  Stanly  County  and  a  marketing  place  for 
the  region.  The  county  was  named  for  John  Stanly  (see  new  bern)  when  it 
was  formed  in  1841.  Albemarle's  industrial  plants  manufacture  textiles^ 
cottonseed  oil,  lumber,  flour,  and  bricks. 


398  TOURS 

In  1842,  the  year  the  town  was  incorporated,  the  first  courthouse  was  built 
on  the  intersection  of  the  two  main  streets  but  was  later  moved  to  a  corner 
lot  for  which  farmer  Ned  Lowder  once  refused  to  trade  his  fox  hound.  The 
move  was  actuated,  the  story  goes,  because  various  young  bloods  had  at- 
tempted to  drive  their  horses  and  buggies  up  the  courthouse  steps.  The 
present  Courthouse,  on  the  opposite  corner,  is  a  two-story  brick  structure 
flush  with  the  sidewalk.  Not  so  many  years  ago  it  was  the  custom  for  the 
court  crier  to  lean  from  the  courtroom  window  and  call  witnesses  and 
jurors  from  the  street. 

Wiscasset  Mills  {open  on  application),  a  Cannon  unit  {see  tour  12),  is 
the  largest  full-fashioned  hosiery  plant  in  the  South. 

Albemarle  is  at  the  junction  with  State  27  {see  tour  32). 

NORWOOD,  39.5  m.  (1,452  pop.),  is  a  rural  community  with  a  large 
textile  factory. 

At  41.5  m.  US  52  crosses  the  ROCKY  RIVER  {fishing,  camping)  which, 
2  miles  to  the  east,  joins  the  Pee  Dee  River. 

ANSONVILLE,  48.5  m.  (324  alt.,  532  pop.),  was  founded  as  a  summer 
settlement  in  1844-45  by  a  group  of  planters  from  the  lower  Pee  Dee  seeking 
higher  ground  to  escape  malaria.  They  engaged  a  Mr.  Hatchett  from  Phila- 
delphia to  build  their  houses  and  a  school  for  their  daughters;  the  sons  were 
sent  away  to  school.  The  Ruins  of  the  Carolina  Female  College,  on  the 
northern  side  of  town,  a  three-story  red  brick  building  of  Classical  Revival 
design,  with  ell  at  the  left  added  later,  are  used  for  storing  cottonseed.  This 
school  operated  from  1850  until  about  1867  when  it  was  closed  by  politics 
and  two  successive  epidemics  of  typhoid.  Diplomas  for  "proficiency  in 
science  and  polite  literature"  were  granted,  a  few  of  which  are  still  in  exist- 
ence. 

Beyond  the  center  of  town  is  (R)  the  Major  Cole  House  {private),  built 
for  Major  Cole  by  Mr.  Hatchett  (1844-45),  and  occupied  (1939)  by  the 
former's  descendants.  The  foundation  of  the  square,  two-story,  hip  roof 
brick  structure,  as  well  as  the  window  and  door  sills  are  of  sandstone  from 
a  nearby  quarry,  and  the  bricks  were  burned  by  the  major's  slaves.  The 
unusually  fine  cast-iron  rails  and  lacy  supports  of  the  front  porch  were  im- 
ported from  France  and  are  reminiscent  of  those  seen  in  New  Orleans.  The 
ironwork,  designed  with  an  intricate  grapevine  motif,  was  formerly  painted; 
traces  of  purple  and  green  are  still  visible. 

Opposite  the  Cole  House  is  (L)  the  Gen.  William  Smith  House  {pri- 
vate), also  built  by  Hatchett  (1844-45).  It  is  a  white  weatherboarded  struc- 
ture with  delicately  leaded  glass  in  its  doorway.  Two-story  gallery  porticoes 
and  other  additions  were  built  in  the  1880's.  Quarters  at  the  rear,  arranged 
approximately  in  a  semicircle,  include  a  dairy,  kitchen  and  ironing  room, 
smokehouse,  cabin,  and  coach  house  converted  into  a  garage.  Behind  this 
group  is  a  red  barn  with  whitewashed  sandstone  portico  of  three  arches  in 
the  Victorian  Gothic  or  Queen  Anne  style. 


tour  15  399 

In  a  grove  of  tall  pines  on  the  outskirts  of  Ansonville  is  Bethlehem 
Cemetery,  in  which  is  a  marker  honoring  Ralph  Freeman,  generally  re- 
ferred to  as  Elder  Ralph,  who  was  born  a  slave,  joined  the  Baptists,  had 
"impressions  to  preach"  and  received  his  license  from  the  church  of  which 
he  was  a  member.  After  the  Bear  Creek  Association  bought  and  gave  him 
his  freedom  he  became  an  ordained  Primitive  Baptist  minister,  traveling 
and  preaching  in  Anson,  Montgomery,  Moore,  Randolph,  and  Davidson 
Counties.  A  white  preacher,  Joseph  Magee,  was  frequently  his  traveling 
companion.  Ralph  also  supplied  at  times  for  the  Rev.  John  Culpepper 
(white)  while  the  latter  was  representing  the  district  in  Congress.  Ralph 
died  in  1831. 

Tombstones  in  the  cemetery  give  evidence  of  the  fever  epidemic.  One 
bears  an  epitaph  said  to  have  been  composed  by  the  departed  young  lady, 
which  reads: 

The  pursuit  of  Education  led  me  from  home 
I  bade  my  Companions  Farewell 
I  met  the  contagion  and  sunk  to  the  tomb 
And  now  with  my  Savior  I  dwell. . . . 

WADESBORO,  60  m.  (433  alt.,  3,124  pop.),  seat  of  Anson  County  and 
the  leading  cotton-mill  town  of  the  region,  lies  at  the  edge  of  the  Sandhill  dis- 
trict in  the  longleaf  pine  belt.  The  hills  nearby  are  known  as  the  Carr  Moun- 
tains. The  site  of  Wadesboro  was  the  gift  of  Capt.  Patrick  Boggan,  son  of  the 
Lord  of  Castle  Finn,  who  came  from  Ireland  before  the  Revolutionary  War. 

Wadesboro's  Oldest  House  {private),  on  Wade  St.,  was  built  about  1800 
by  Captain  Boggan  for  one  of  his  daughters.  As  the  marriage  of  each  of  his 
nine  children  approached,  Boggan  became  so  furious  that  in  eight  cases  the 
bride  and  groom  chose  elopement.  Parental  forgiveness,  when  it  finally  came, 
was  invariably  followed  by  the  gift  of  house,  land,  and  slaves. 

Boggan  was  captain  of  the  Minute  Men  of  Salisbury  with  a  commission 
under  General  Greene.  Once  while  he  was  on  a  secret  visit  home,  Tories  sur- 
rounded his  house  and  demanded  his  surrender.  The  captain  placed  his  wife's 
flax  knife  under  his  coat  and  meekly  followed  the  Tories  out  of  the  house.  His 
captors,  though  heavily  armed,  were  unprepared  for  an  attack  and  so  he  was 
able  to  throw  them  into  confusion,  kill  three,  and  escape. 

Anson  County  was  formed  in  1748  while  North  Carolina  was  still  a  Prov- 
ince of  the  Crown.  It  was  named  for  Lord  George  Anson  (1697-1763),  the 
English  admiral  and  circumnavigator  sent  to  protect  the  Carolinas'  coast  from 
pirates  and  Spanish  raiders  between  1723  and  1735.  His  biographer  wrote  in 
1838  that  Anson  was  popular  among  the  settlers  who  "gave  his  name  to  dis- 
tricts, towns,  and  mines  . . ."  and  explained  this  popularity  by  quoting  Mrs. 
Hutchinson  of  South  Carolina,  who  wrote  (about  1729)  that  Anson  was 
"free  from  that  troublesome  ceremoniousness  which  often  renders  many  peo- 
ple . . .  extremely  disagreeable  ...  he  is  really  so  old-fashioned  as  to  make  some 
profession  of  religion  . . .  [and]  amidst  all  the  scandalous  warfare  that  is 
perpetually  nourished  here,  he  maintains  a  strict  neutrality. . . ." 

Anson's  first  courthouse,  erected  in  1755  at  Mount  Pleasant  {see  tour  31b), 
was  sold  to  be  used  for  a  church  after  the  county  had  been  divided.  In  1785  a 


400  TOURS 

log  courthouse  built  on  the  brow  of  a  hill  was  so  designed  that  wagons  could 
pass  beneath  it.  The  town  platted  around  this  courthouse  was  called  New 
Town,  but  changed  later  to  Wadesboro  in  honor  of  Col.  Thomas  Wade,  who 
is  buried  at  Mount  Pleasant.  The  modern  brick  and  stone  Courthouse  in 
the  center  of  town  is  of  classic  design,  fronted  by  a  tall  colonnade.  Built  in 
191 4,  it  is  surrounded  by  a  landscaped  square  with  several  memorial  monu- 
ments and  tablets. 

Wadesboro  is  at  the  junction  with  US  74  (see  tour  31b). 

MORVEN,  69  m.  (341  alt.,  590  pop.),  comprises  both  an  old  town  and  the 
new  one  that  grew  up  around  the  station  2  miles  east  when  the  railroad  was 
built  here.  Old  Morven  began  about  1800  when  William  Covington  built  a 
tavern  at  a  junction  on  a  stagecoach  route.  In  its  Old  Scotch  Graveyard  are 
buried  Covingtons,  McKenzies,  Fergusons,  McRaes,  and  McKays. 

When  Robert  F.  W.  Allston,  Governor  of  South  Carolina  (1856-58), 
bought  McKenzie's  plantation,  he  brought  his  sports-loving  friends  here  for 
horse  racing  and  cock  fighting.  The  Anson  Guards,  organized  at  Morven 
prior  to  the  War  between  the  States,  was  the  first  county  militia  in  the  State 
to  offer  its  services.  During  the  occupation  by  Gen.  Judson  Kilpatrick  and 
Union  troops,  Morven  was  burned. 

McFARLAN,  73  m.  (297  alt.,  138  pop.),  is  a  rural  village  settled  by 
Scotch-Irish. 

US  52  crosses  the  South  Carolina  Line  at  74  m.,  10  miles  north  of 
Cheraw,  S.  C.  (see  s.  c.  tour  2). 


TOUR       I    6 


(Independence,     Va.) — Sparta — Statesville — Charlotte — (Chester,     S.     C); 

US  21. 

Virginia  Line — South  Carolina  Line,  133  m. 

Southern  Ry.  parallels  the  route  between  Statesville  and  the  South  Carolina  Line. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  cities  and  towns;  tourist  homes  along  the  route. 

This  route  crosses  mountain  pastures  in  the  Blue  Ridge  and  runs  through 
the  undulating  Piedmont  Plateau  and  fertile  plains. 

US  21  crosses  the  Virginia-North  Carolina  Line,  0  m.,  4  miles  south  of 
Independence,  Va.  {see  va.  tour  7). 

TWIN  OAKS,  3  m.  (2,430  alt.,  20  pop.),  is  at  the  junction  with  US  221 
{see  tour  18). 

Between  this  point  and  Roaring  Gap  most  of  the  timber  has  been  cut  and 
mountain  pasture  lands  and  plowed  fields  lie  on  steep  slopes. 

SPARTA,  6  m.  (2,939  a^-j  4^6  pop.),  is  the  seat  of  Alleghany  County. 

ROARING  GAP,  18  m.  (2,914  alt.). 

Season:  June  15-Sept.  15. 

Accommodations:  Modern  resort  hotel;  camp  for  girls  at  Big  Lake;  Girl  Scout  Council 

camp  at  Lake  Louise.  Nonsectarian  church;  hospital  open  during  season. 
Recreation:  Swimming,   boating,   horseback  riding;    18 -hole  golf   course,  greens  fee,  $2; 

occasional  plays  by  Barter  Theater  group;  picnic  grounds. 

This  summer  resort  occupies  a  1,030-acre  tract  on  a  high  plateau.  Most  of 
its  property  is  owned  by  residents  of  Winston-Salem.  Left  from  the  main 
road  on  Lake  Drive,  which  circles  the  lake,  is  a  Trout  Hatchery  {open). 
Here  is  an  outdoor  picnic  ground. 

Between  Roaring  Gap  and  DOUGHTON,  24.3  m.  (100  pop.),  at  the 
foot  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  US  21  drops  1,600  feet  as  it  runs  through  timberland 
where  conifers  stand  out  among  the  deciduous  trees.  {Strong  fences  guard 
dangerous  curves;  viewpoint  turnouts.)  Southeast  of  Doughton  US  21  enters 
the  Piedmont  Plateau. 

STATE  ROAD,  32  m.  (1,310  alt.,  100  pop.),  named  for  an  early  high- 
way, is  at  the  northern  end  of  the  Yadkin  Valley,  a  rich  grazing  country. 

Left  across  a  ravine  is  the  Hugh  Chatham  Memorial  Hospital,  37  m., 
opened  in  193 1  as  a  memorial  to  Hugh  Gwyn  Chatham. 

401 


402  TOURS 

ELKIN,  37.5  m.  (947  alt.,  2,357  P°P-)>  an  industrial  town,  is  said  to 
have  been  so  named  because  an  Indian  shouted  "Elk  in"  when  the  elk  he 
pursued  fell  into  the  creek  here.  An  antler  allegedly  belonging  to  this  same 
elk  is  now  in  the  possession  of  Mrs.  Raymond  Chatham,  great-granddaughter 
of  Richard  Gwyn,  who  in  1829  purchased  land  here  and  established  a 
small  cotton  mill  in  1858. 

Around  Elkin  are  thermal  belts  where  destructive  frosts  seldom  occur 
from  fruit-blossoming  until  late  autumn.  Apples  are  grown  in  large  quan- 
tities. 

The  Chatham  Manufacturing  Co.  Plant  {open  on  application  at  the 
office),  a  modern  three-story  brick  building,  contains  the  latest  machinery 
used  in  washing,  dyeing,  carding,  spinning,  and  weaving  wool  and  cotton. 

In  1878  Alexander  Chatham  and  Thomas  Gwyn  built  a  little  woolen  mill 
on  the  banks  of  Elkin  Creek.  Farmers  brought  their  fleece  over  rough 
mountain  roads  to  the  mill  where  it  was  made  into  cloth  on  a  commission 
basis  or  was  traded  for  the  rough  jeans  then  manufactured  at  the  mill. 

The  mills,  much  expanded  and  moved  from  the  earlier  site  to  be  near  the 
railroad,  are  still  owned  by  the  Chatham  family.  Most  of  the  wool  used 
comes  from  Virginia  and  North  Carolina,  though  some  is  obtained  from  the 
West  and  imported  from  abroad.  This  company  is  one  of  the  largest  pro- 
ducers of  woolen  blankets  in  the  world. 

A  concrete  bridge  across  the  Yadkin  River  connects  Elkin  with  JONES- 
VILLE,  38.5  m.  (998  alt.,  1,306  pop.). 

South  of  Jonesville  the  route  runs  into  a  bright-leaf  tobacco  country  in 
which  mud-chinked  curing  barns  appear  at  intervals  {see  tour  //). 

BROOKS  CROSSROADS,  48.4  m.  (1,072  alt.),  is  at  the  junction  with 
US  421  {see  tour  25). 

In  the  middle  of  the  main  street  of  HAMPTON VILLE,  50.1  m.  (1,050 
alt.,  75  pop.),  is  a  winch  and  bucket  well,  which,  tradition  relates,  was  first 
built  by  Henry  Hampton,  an  Englishman  who  settled  here  prior  to  the 
Revolutionary  War  and  served  as  a  colonel  of  Colonial  troops. 

At  53.8  m.  the  route  enters  a  fertile  countryside  where  the  yards  of  homes 
are  planted  with  old-fashioned  flowers  and  shrubs. 

The  Carson  House  {private),  57.5  m.,  an  unpainted,  weather-beaten 
old  frame  farmhouse,  was  the  home  of  Lindsay  Carson,  father  of  Kit  Car- 
son, the  noted  frontiersman,  before  he  moved  to  Madison  County,  Ky.  The 
land  was  granted  in  1761  to  Kit's  grandfather,  William  Carson.  Some  claim 
that  Kit  Carson  was  born  here. 

HARMONY,  60  m.  (978  alt.,  337  pop.),  a  quiet  country  village,  grew  up 
around  the  old  Harmony  Mills  Campground,  where  "protracted  meetings" 
were  held  annually  for  many  years  by  members  of  various  churches. 

At  TURNERSBURG,  65  m.  (791  alt.,  150  pop.),  the  route  crosses  Rocky 
Creek  on  a  concrete  bridge.  A  small  dam  provides  power  for  a  yarn  mill 
that  has  been  in  operation  continuously  since  1850. 


TOUR     I  6  403 

At  65.7  m.  (L)  is  ALLISON'S  LAKE  {privately  owned;  swimming  and 
boating  free),  two  small  bodies  of  water  with  an  old  water  wheel  near  the 
dam  at  the  lower  lake. 

At  67.1  m.  the  route  crosses  the  South  Yadkin  River  on  a  long  bridge 
that  spans  cultivated  fields  on  both  sides  of  the  stream,  which  is  almost  dry 
at  times  but  swells  dangerously  in  floodtime  and  covers  the  fields. 

At  69  m.  (R)  on  a  hilltop  in  a  grove  of  oaks  is  Bethany  Presbyterian 
Church,  a  rectangular,  one-story  white  frame  structure  erected  in  1855. 
The  congregation  was  organized  in  1775  and  the  first  church  built  near  the 
site  of  the  cabins  of  the  first  Scotch-Irish  settlers  from  Pennsylvania.  This 
was  then  part  of  the  hunting  grounds  of  the  Cherokee  and  Catawba  In- 
dians; old  Fort  Dobbs,  built  for  protection  against  them,  stood  a  few  miles 
to  the  southwest. 

East  and  north  of  the  church  is  a  Cemetery  enclosed  by  a  wall  built  in 
3  days  by  members  of  the  congregation  from  stone  taken  from  a  quarry 
several  miles  away.  "July  1825"  is  carved  on  a  stone  near  the  gate.  Here  are 
buried  Revolutionary  and  Confederate  soldiers,  pioneers,  and  their  de- 
scendants. 

Inside  the  south  gate  is  the  marked  Grave  of  Dr.  James  Hall  (1744- 
1826),  first  pastor  of  Bethany  Church,  which  he  served  for  38  years.  In  1778 
he  opened  a  classical  school,  Clio's  Nursery,  in  a  log  building  near  his  home 
on  Snow  Creek,  using  for  awhile  manuscript  textbooks  which  he  wrote.  At 
his  home,  with  the  aid  of  a  purchased  "philosophical  apparatus,"  he  taught 
the  Academy  of  Sciences,  the  first  attempt  in  North  Carolina  to  make  the 
sciences  a  part  of  academic  training.  During  the  Revolution  he  organized  a 
company  of  cavalry  from  the  men  of  his  congregations  and  served  as  captain 
as  well  as  chaplain  of  the  regiment. 

The  Ebenezer  Academy  Building,  at  the  southern  end  of  the  grounds,  is 
a  single-story  frame  structure,  weather-beaten  and  deserted.  From  its  or- 
ganization by  citizens  of  Bethany  in  1822  until  it  closed  in  1857  this  was  the 
leading  institution  of  higher  education  between  the  Yadkin  and  Catawba 
Rivers.  Students  were  prepared  here  for  Princeton  and  later  for  Davidson 
College.  After  the  academy  closed  the  building  was  long  used  for  a  public 
school. 

At  72.5  m.  is  a  marker  at  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  marked  Site  of  Fort  Dobbs,  1  m.,  built  of  logs  in  1755 
as  a  refuge  from  Indian  attacks.  It  was  named  for  Gov.  Arthur  Dobbs  (1754-65). 

STATESVILLE,  77  m.  (925  alt.,  10,491  pop.),  seat  of  Iredell  County,  is 
a  well-planned  old  town  with  wide  streets  and  many  trees.  There  are  pink 
dogwoods  on  Davie  Avenue,  elms  on  Center  Street,  oaks  on  Front  and  West 
End  Avenues,  myrtles  along  Sharpe  Street,  maples  in  the  Boulevard  section, 
walnuts  on  the  street  named  for  them,  as  well  as  tulip  trees,  magnolias,  and 
cedars.  Of  the  60  or  more  manufacturing  concerns,  the  principal  factories 
are  textile  mills  and  woodworking  plants. 


404  TOURS 

Following  the  organization  of  the  Statesville  Audubon  Club  in  1930,  the 
entire  city  by  ordinance  became  a  bird  sanctuary.  The  birds  have  responded 
to  this  civic  welcome  by  making  Statesville  their  home  in  increasing  num- 
bers. 

Scotch-Irish  and  Germans  from  Maryland  and  Pennsylvania  came  to  this 
region  about  1750  and  called  their  settlement  and  their  church  Fourth 
Creek.  Although  Statesville  was  founded  on  the  site  in  1789,  it  was  still  a 
small  village  when  a  fire  in  1852  destroyed  most  of  the  buildings.  With  the 
opening  in  1856  of  a  college  for  women  and  the  coming  of  the  Western 
North  Carolina  R.R.  soon  afterward,  it  began  to  grow  rapidly. 

Iredell  County  was  named  for  James  Iredell,  Associate  Justice  of  the  first 
U.  S.  Supreme  Court  {see  edenton).  The  county  produces  more  wheat  than 
any  other  county  in  the  State  and  local  flour  mills  are  the  largest  in  the 
State. 

Quincy  Sharpe  Mills,  born  in  Statesville  in  1884,  was  killed  in  action  at 
Chateau-Thierry,  France,  July  26,  1918.  His  war  letters  were  published  in 
1923  as  One  Who  Gave  His  Life  and  his  Editorials,  Sketches,  and  Stories 
in  1930. 

The  Iredell  County  Courthouse  (1899),  is  a  two-story  building  of 
cream  brick  in  modified  Renaissance  style,  fronted  with  a  portico  and 
topped  with  a  low  dome.  Elms  shade  the  gardened  lawn.  In  the  rear  are 
the  county  jail  and  public  welfare  buildings,  both  designed  to  harmonize 
with  the  courthouse;  Lawyers  Row,  one  of  the  oldest  structures  in  States- 
ville, a  one-story  red  brick  building  that  has  been  modernized  for  county 
offices;  Home  Demonstration  Cottage,  a  center  for  farmers  and  their 
wives;  and  the  Statesville  Community  House. 

The  Statesville  Presbyterian  Church,  corner  W.  End  Ave.  and  Meet- 
ing St.,  is  a  substantial  modern  stone  structure  on  the  site  of  the  18th-century 
Fourth  Creek  Meetinghouse.  Fourth  Creek's  congregation,  the  first  between 
the  South  Yadkin  and  Catawba  Rivers,  was  organized  in  1764-65. 

Across  the  street  is  the  old  Fourth  Creek  Burying  Ground,  surrounded 
by  a  low  stone  wall.  In  a  gardened  triangle  is  the  James  Hall  Marker,  of 
native  granite,  to  the  pioneer  preacher,  teacher,  missionary,  and  soldier.  He 
was  the  first  regular  pastor  of  Fourth  Creek  (1778-90),  as  well  as  of  Bethany. 

Mitchell  College,  W.  Broad  St.,  2  blocks  west  of  the  public  square,  is 
housed  in  a  group  of  brick  buildings  on  a  wooded  knoll.  It  was  founded  in 
1856  and  is  operated  by  the  Concord  Presbytery  of  the  Southern  Presbyterian 
Church.  After  several  changes  of  name,  it  was  designated  Mitchell  College 
in  1896  for  Mrs.  Eliza  Mitchell  Grant  and  Miss  Margaret  Eliot  Mitchell,  who 
taught  here  from  1875  to  1883.  They  were  daughters  of  Dr.  Elisha  Mitchell 
for  whom  Mount  Mitchell  is  named  {see  tour  30 A).  Until  1932,  when  men 
were  admitted  as  day  students,  the  school  was  conducted  for  girls.  The 
enrollment  is  about  250. 

The  Zeb  Vance  House,  219  W.  Broad  St.,  is  so  called  because  it  was 
designated  by  North  Carolina's  wartime  Governor  as  the  temporary  State 
capitol  and  executive  mansion  when  Union  troops  occupied  Raleigh  {see 
raleigh). 


TOUR     I  6  405 

Wallace  Brothers  Herbarium  (open),  Meeting  St.,  has  one  of  the 
largest  collections  of  roots,  herbs,  and  other  medicinal  plants  in  the  world. 

1.  Right  from  Statesville  on  paved  State  90  to  the  Piedmont  Experiment  Station  (open 
on  application),  0.5  m.,  the  joint  project  of  the  N.C.  and  U.S.  Departments  of  Agricul- 
ture. 

2.  Left  from  Statesville  on  paved  US  70,  in  the  cemetery  of  the  Third  Creek  Presbyterian 
Church,  13  m.,  is  the  Grave  of  Peter  Ney,  with  a  headstone  inscribed:  "In  Memory  of 
Peter  Stuart  Ney  a  native  of  France  and  soldier  of  the  French  Revolution  under  Napoleon 
Bonaparte  who  departed  this  life  Nov.  15,  1846,  aged  77  years." 

Ney,  a  school  teacher  and  fencing  master  who  arrived  in  Charleston,  S.  C,  in  January 
18 16,  is  believed  by  many  to  have  been  Michel  Ney,  Marshal  of  France.  According  to 
French  history  Marshal  Ney  was  executed  for  treason  on  Dec.  7,  1815,  for  aiding 
Napoleon  in  the  Battle  of  Waterloo,  and  is  buried  in  the  Pere-Lachaise  cemetery  in  Paris. 

It  has  been  claimed  that  the  execution  and  burial  were  feigned  and  that  Marshal  Ney 
escaped  to  America.  Associates  of  the  schoolmaster  told  of  his  intense  loyalty  to  Napoleon 
and  of  the  documents  he  preserved  as  proof  of  his  identity.  In  1887  a  group  received 
permission  to  exhume  the  body,  and  discovered  that  the  skeleton  did  measure  approxi- 
mately 5  feet,  10  inches,  the  height  of  the  marshal,  but  they  failed  to  find  a  silver  plate 
such  as  the  marshal  was  believed  to  have  worn  in  his  head  following  an  operation.  In 
the  Papers  of  Archibald  D.  Murphey,  Volume  I,  published  by  the  North  Carolina  His- 
torical Commission,  are  two  letters  in  which  Murphey  speaks  of  engaging  the  school- 
master to  help  with  historical  work,  and  learning  that  Peter  Stuart  Ney  was  a  Scot. 

At  BARIUM  SPRINGS,  82  m.  (955  alt.,  400  pop.),  is  a  Presbyterian  or- 
phanage of  the  same  name.  The  mineral  springs  here  containing  salts 
of  barium,  sulphur,  and  iron  were  discovered  and  used  by  the  Indians. 

TROUTMANS,  83  m.  (955  alt.,  432  pop.),  founded  in  1853,  was  named 
for  the  first  settlers  who  started  a  wagon  shop  here.  A  fair  is  held  here  each 
fall  (harvest  time). 

In  MOORESVILLE,  93  m.  (911  alt.,  5,619  pop.),  established  in  1868,  the 
leading  industry  is  cotton  manufacturing. 

Mooresville  Cotton  Mills  (open)  employ  2,000  people  in  the  manu- 
facture of  towels  and  cotton  materials.  This  is  one  of  the  few  plants  that 
produce  the  finished  articles  from  raw  cotton. 

MOUNT  MOURNE,  97  m.  (844  alt.,  150  pop.),  a  village  scattered  along 
the  highway,  is  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  in  this  region.  Its  early  history 
is  recorded  in  the  Centre  Presbyterian  Church  (L)  whose  congregation 
was  organized  in  1765.  The  present  plain  rectangular  building,  of  hand- 
made, sun-dried  bricks,  with  tall  windows  and  solid  green  shutters,  was 
built  in  1854.  About  three  sides  of  the  church  is  a  slave  gallery.  In  the 
vestibule  is  a  white  marble  marker  to  members  who  enlisted  in  the  Revo- 
lutionary War,  many  of  whom  are  buried  in  the  cemetery  across  the  road. 
Revolutionary  figures  from  this  congregation  included  Ephraim  Brevard, 
surgeon,  signer  of  the  Mecklenburg  Declaration  (see  charlotte),  and  Gen. 
William  L.  Davidson,  killed  when  trying  to  block  Cornwallis  at  Cowans 
Ford,  in  1781.  The  Synod  of  the  Carolinas  was  organized  here  Nov.  5,  1788. 

At  98  m.  is  the  Site  of  Crowfield  Academy,  forerunner  of  Davidson 
College.  Established  in  1760,  it  was  the  first  school  in  this  section  of  the 
State  to  include  courses  in  the  classics. 


406  TOURS 

In  DAVIDSON,  100  m.  (826  alt.,  1,445  P°P-)>  is  Davidson  College  (L), 
founded  in  1837.  Its  brick  buildings,  old  and  new,  are  sheltered  by  towering 
oaks  and  elms.  The  oldest  buildings  of  the  original  college  group,  Eumanean 
and  Philanthropic  Halls,  are  Greek  Revival  structures  erected  for  the 
two  literary  societies  in  1849.  They  are  two-story  buildings  of  brick  and 
stone  with  simple  Doric  porticoes.  The  second-story  portico  columns  are  set 
upon  square  piers.  The  side  facades  have  three  bays  separated  by  flat  un- 
adorned pilasters.  Two  of  the  original  student  dormitories  are  also  in  use. 
Chambers  Building  (1929),  a  brick  structure  in  Classic  Revival  style  with 
columned  portico  and  dome,  is  the  center  of  college  life  and  activities. 
Modern  fraternity  houses  are  grouped  around  a  court  on  the  southwest 
corner  of  the  campus. 

Davidson  has  a  student  body  of  680  and  a  faculty  of  40.  A  50-piece  student 
symphony  orchestra  gives  concerts  during  the  school  year  and  makes  a  tour 
with  the  choral  group  each  spring. 

Immediately  after  the  announcement  in  November  1895  triat  Prof.  Wil- 
liam Konrad  Roentgen  had  discovered  at  Wiirzburg,  Germany,  that  rays 
generated  in  a  vacuum  tube  have  the  quality  of  penetrating  opaque  bodies, 
Dr.  Henry  Louis  Smith  constructed  an  apparatus  at  Davidson  College  that 
produced  X-rays.  Dr.  Smith,  alumnus  of  Davidson  and  its  president  (1901- 
12),  served  as  president  of  Washington  and  Lee  University  (1912-30). 

Other  alumni  include  Woodrow  Wilson;  R.  B.  Glenn,  Governor  of 
North  Carolina  (1905-9);  Dr.  C.  Alphonso  Smith,  founder  of  the  Virginia 
Folklore  Society;  Henry  Smith  Richardson,  manufacturing  chemist  and 
philanthropist,  and  S.  Clay  Williams,  tobacco-manufacturing  executive. 

At  the  southern  boundary  of  CORNELIUS,  102  m.  (833  alt.,  1,230 
pop.),  a  cotton-manufacturing  center,  is  the  old  white  frame  Mount  Zion 
Methodist  Church  (L),  with  a  burying  ground  for  Confederate  soldiers. 
Reunion  picnics  are  held  here  annually. 

In  HUNTERSVILLE,  107  m.  (814  alt.,  800  pop.),  is  a  Memorial  Play- 
ground, established  by  the  Woman's  Club.  Every  tree,  shrub,  and  flower 
bears  the  name  of  some  child  living  in  the  town. 

Right  from  Huntersville  on  the  Gilead  Rd.  to  Cedar  Grove,  the  Torrance  estate,  3  m. 
The  three-story  structure  was  built  by  James  G.  Torrance  in  1831.  The  sun-dried  bricks 
were  made  by  slaves;  lumber  was  cut  and  carved  on  the  place;  nails  were  hand-forged. 
Within  are  large  fireplaces  with  high  mantels. 

CHARLOTTE,  120  m.  (732  alt.,  82,675  P°P-)  (see  charlotte). 

Points  of  Interest:  Independence  Square,  First  Presbyterian  Church,  Site  of  Confederate 
Navy  Yard,  Mint  Museum,  Martin  Cannon  Residence,  and  others. 

Charlotte  is  at  the  junction  with  US  74  (see  tour  31),  US  29  (see  tour 
12),  and  State  27  (see  tours  32  and  19A). 

At  PINEVILLE,  131  m.  (575  alt.,  1,108  pop.),  Nancy  Hanks  (see  tour 
21E),  mother  of  Abraham  Lincoln,  is  said  to  have  attended  school. 

Left  from  Pineville  on  paved  US  521  across  a  bridge  beside  a  small  Negro  cabin,  1  m. ; 
L.   220   yards  off  the   highway   is   the   Site   of   the   Birthplace   of  James  Knox  Polk 


TOUR     I  6  407 

(1795-1849),  nth  President  of  the  United  States,  marked  by  a  rubble-stone  pyramid  15 
feet  high.  Polk  moved  to  Tennessee  with  his  family  when  he  was  1 1  years  old,  but  re- 
turned to  enter  the  University  of  North  Carolina  (see  chapel  hill).  He  was  graduated 
with  honors  after  three  years  and  two  years  later  completed  his  law  course. 

According  to  one  version  of  the  story  of  what  the  Governor  of  North 
Carolina  said  to  the  Governor  of  South  Carolina,  the  meeting  of  the  two 
officials  took  place  south  of  Charlotte,  near  the  State  Line  (see  tour  28). 

A  1735  agreement  to  include  Catawba  Indian  territory  in  South  Carolina 
is  the  reason  for  the  irregular  course  of  the  boundary  between  North  Caro- 
lina and  South  Carolina  in  this  section. 

US  21  crosses  the  South  Carolina  Line  at  133  m.,  7  miles  northeast  of 
Fort  Mill,  and  continues  to  Chester,  S.  C.  (see  s.  c.  tour  5). 


TOUR       17 


Sparta — Wilkesboro — Taylorsville — Conover;  State  18,  16.  72  m. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Limited  hotel  accommodations  in  larger  towns;  tourist  homes  in  towns  and  a  few  along 

the  route. 

From  the  center  of  a  mountainous  region  this  route  crosses  an  isolated 
section  served  by  no  railways,  and  a  prosperous  farming  country  where  peach 
and  apple  orchards  line  the  slopes.  Meadows  lush  with  bluegrass  make  dairy- 
ing an  important  industry. 

Between  SPARTA,  0  m.  {see  tour  16),  and  Wilkesboro,  State  18  follows 
a  route  where  in  many  places  the  right-of-way  was  blasted  out  of  rocky  cliffs. 

LAUREL  SPRINGS,  10  m.  (2,822  alt.,  100  pop.),  a  quiet  farming  vil- 
lage, was  the  scene  of  frequent  robberies  and  murders  by  bushwhackers  and 
deserters  during  the  War  between  the  States. 

The  Doughton  Home  {private),  11  m.  (R),  a  frame  farmhouse 
shaded  by  hemlock  trees,  was  the  birthplace  of  Robert  L.  (Farmer  Bob) 
Doughton,  U.  S.  Congressman  (1911-  ).  On  this  farm  is  the  house  in 
which  the  Siamese  twins  were  married  {see  tour  15a). 

MULBERRY  GAP,  17  m.,  is  a  natural  pass  through  the  Blue  Ridge. 
Between  the  pass  and  the  foot  of  the  mountain  at  22  m.  is  a  steep,  twisting 
road  whose  numerous,  well-banked  curves  present  broad  views. 

NORTH  WILKESBORO,  36  m.  (974  alt.,  3,668  pop.),  largest  town  in 
the  upper  Yadkin  Valley,  was  chartered  in  1891  when  citizens  voted  to 
separate  from  Wilkesboro.  Industrial  plants  include  a  large  tannery,  furni- 
ture factories,  foundries,  and  machine  shops.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  poultry 
markets  in  the  South. 

Many  mountain  folk  eke  out  a  livelihood  by  what  is  known  in  local  par- 
lance as  "yarbin'  it,"  colloquialism  for  gathering  and  selling  roots,  barks,  and 
herbs  to  a  local  firm  that  exports  them. 

Between  North  Wilkesboro  and  Wilkesboro  the  highway  crosses  the 
Yadkin  River,  whose  basin  is  noted  for  its  broad  fertile  valleys  and  scenic 
beauty. 

WILKESBORO,  37  m.  (1,042  alt.,  1,042  pop.),  seat  of  Wilkes  County, 
on  the  south  bank  of  the  Yadkin,  was  settled  before  the  Revolution  and 
called  Mulberry  Fields.  County  and  town  were  named  for  John  Wilkes 

408 


TOUR    17  409 

(1727-97),  English  statesman  and  defender  of  popular  rights.  John  Wilkes 
Booth,  Lincoln's  assassin,  was  related  to  John  Wilkes  through  his  paternal 
grandmother. 

The  first  log  courthouse  was  used  until  1830.  The  present  Courthouse 
is  a  Classical  Revival  brick  and  stone  structure  with  a  two-story  pedimented 
portico  and  unusual  roof  setbacks.  The  first  deed  recorded  was  a  grant  in 
1779  of  3,400  acres  to  Col.  Benjamin  Cleveland  (see  tour  25),  whose  tract, 
Roundabout,  was  in  a  horseshoe  bend  of  the  river.  "Old  Roundabout"  was 
a  popular  nickname  for  Cleveland  who  was  widely  known  for  his  vigorous 
activity  in  the  Whig  cause.  He  led  men  from  this  region  to  the  Battle  of 
Kings  Mountain  (see  tour  31c),  where  he  commanded  the  left  flank  of  the 
Continental  forces.  He  was  a  scourge  to  the  Tories  around  Ramsours  Mill, 
as  well  as  in  the  New  and  upper  Yadkin  River  sections.  After  the  war  he 
lost  Roundabout  to  a  "better  title,"  whereupon  he  removed  in  1785  to  the 
Tugalo  country  in  South  Carolina.  Here  he  became  a  county  court  judge. 
Possessed  of  little  formal  education,  Cleveland  held  legal  technicalities  and 
lengthy  perorations  in  contempt.  He  had  attained  a  weight  of  450  pounds 
and  often  slept  serenely  on  the  bench,  content  to  be  prodded  if  his  snoring 
interrupted  the  business  of  the  court.  Cleveland  County  was  named  for  him 
(see  tour  31c). 

After  the  War  between  the  States  a  band  of  army  deserters  and  outlaws, 
who  had  been  plundering  Wilkes  County  for  several  months,  were  trapped 
in  a  house  which  was  set  afire.  All  of  the  bandits  except  Colonel  Wade, 
their  leader,  surrendered,  were  tried,  sentenced,  and  shot.  Tradition  relates 
that  while  Wade  was  being  sought  he  escaped  by  hiding  under  the  waters 
of  the  Yadkin  River  near  the  bank,  breathing  through  a  reed. 

The  Tory  Oak,  NE.  corner  of  the  courthouse  lawn,  is  a  25-foot  dying 
remnant  of  the  "stately  oak"  that  served  as  a  gibbet  for  five  Tories  hanged  by 
Colonel  Cleveland.  One  of  the  victims  was  the  Tory  leader  William  Riddle, 
who  had  spared  Cleveland's  life  under  similar  circumstances. 

The  Cowles  House  (private),  a  clapboarded  residence  with  graceful 
portico  and  three  dormer  windows,  was  built  in  1803  by  Johnny  Waugh. 
It  was  the  home  of  Calvin  J.  Cowles,  president  of  the  convention  that  adopted 
the  State  constitution  in  1868. 

St.  Paul's  Episcopal  Church,  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  town,  is  a  small 
weathered  brick  structure  erected  in  1846-49. 

Right  on  graveled  State  268  to  ADLEY  CHURCH,  3.5  m.  Opposite,  on  a  high  hill 
on  the  north  side  of  the  Yadkin  River,  is  the  old  STOKES  MANSION  (private),  a  square 
two-story  building  with  wide  porches  around  three  sides.  The  slave  cabins  are  of  hewn 
logs.  This  was  the  home  of  Montfort  Stokes,  U.  S.  Senator  (1816-23).  Elected  Governor 
in  1830,  Stokes  resigned  Nov.  19,  1832  to  accept  an  appointment  by  President  Jackson 
as  commissioner  to  report  on  conditions  in  the  Indian  Territory. 

At  8  m.  is  GOSHEN  POST  OFFICE  (88  pop.),  in  the  fertile  GOSHEN  VALLEY, 
where  for  generations  the  people  have  made  baskets,  using  the  simplest  tools  and  white 
oak  for  splits.  They  fall  back  on  split-bottom  maple  chairs  whenever  the  basket  business 
lags.  They  also  grow  a  little  tobacco  for  home  use,  raise  some  corn,  and  usually  keep  a 
cow.  The  clan  spirit  is  strong  in  these  families  who  take  pride  in  their  work  though  it 
yields  a  very  meager  living.  Most  of  their  output  is  bartered,  payment  consisting  of 
almost  anything  that  can  be  eaten  or  worn. 


410  TOURS 

FERGUSON,  16  m.  (60  pop.)  was  blighted  when  the  flood  of  191 6  so  damaged  the 
roadbed  of  the  Watauga  &  Yadkin  River  R.R.  that  it  had  to  be  abandoned.  A  sawmill 
and  lumber  plant  had  been  built  at  the  head  of  the  railroad  constructed  to  transport  the 
timber  from  a  vast  mountain  area. 

Between  Wilkesboro  and  Moravian  Falls  State  16-18  runs  along  the  broad 
ridge  between  Cub  Creek  (L)  and  Moravian  Creek  (R). 

From  the  old  CUB  CREEK  BAPTIST  CHURCH  (L),  40  m.,  a  plain 
white-painted  building,  is  visible  to  the  north  and  west  the  towering  bulk  of 
the  Blue  Ridge,  its  many  peaks,  gaps,  and  gorges  outlined  against  the  hori- 
zon. The  slopes  of  the  Brushy  Mountains  to  the  south  are  checkered  with 
peach  and  apple  orchards. 

MORAVIAN  FALLS,  41  m.  (1,206  alt.,  250  pop.)  (hotel  and  picnic 
grounds),  received  its  name  from  the  waterfalls  on  Moravian  Creek.  For 
more  than  40  years  Moravian  Falls  has  been  known  as  a  printing  and  pub- 
lishing center.  The  Yellow  Jacket,  a  monthly  newspaper,  began  its  career 
here  in  1895,  and  developed  a  circulation  of  350,000  (1939). 

Right  from  Moravian  Falls  on  paved  State  18  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road.  0.1  m. ; 
L.  on  this  road  0.4  m.  to  the  MORAVIAN  FALLS,  where  a  clear  mountain  stream 
flows  between  wooded  hills  and  gushes  over  a  broad  expanse  of  steep  rock.  Here  a  group 
of  Moravian  surveyors  camped  in  1752. 

South  of  Moravian  Falls  the  route  follows  State  16  through  the  valley  of 
the  east  branch  of  Moravian  Creek. 

At  41.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  marked  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  YELLOW  JACKET  LAKE  (swimming),  1  m.,  named  for  the 
paper  in  Moravian  Falls. 

At  44  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  SUMMIT  OF  PORES  KNOB,  4  m.  (2,680  alt.).  Here  is  a 
campground  and  a  60-foot  observation  tower,  from  which  parties  often  view  the  sunrise. 

At  46  m.  the  highway  begins  the  ascent  of  the  Brushies,  whose  slopes  in 
spring  are  covered  with  the  pale  pink  of  myriad  apple  blossoms.  In  the  fall, 
roadside  stands  ofler  the  fruit  and  sweet  cider. 

South  of  KILBYS  GAP,  47  m.,  a  mountain  pass,  State  16  enters  a  long 
narrow  valley.  To  the  L.  is  SUGAR  LOAF  MOUNTAIN,  a  conical  mass 
of  stone  with  patches  of  scrubby  trees. 

TAYLORSVILLE,  56  m.  (1,247  alt.,  926  pop.,  1,800  including  mill  sec- 
tion), seat  and  market  town  of  Alexander  County,  is  in  the  foothills  of  the 
Blue  Ridge  Mountains,  in  the  hiddenite  (lithia  emerald)  region.  The  county 
was  formed  in  1846,  almost  100  years  after  its  first  settlement,  and  named 
for  Nathaniel  Alexander,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1805-7).  Taylorsville 
was  incorporated  in  1887.  Haglar,  chief  of  a  tribe  of  Indians  who  lived 
nearby  on  the  Catawba  River,  first  advocated  prohibition  in  the  State  (1761). 

1.  Right  from  Taylorsville  on  the  Liledoun  Rd.  on  BARRETTS  MOUNTAIN    (1,950 
alt.),  4  m.,  is  a  broad  view  of  the  surrounding  countryside. 


TOUR     17  4II 

2.  Left  from  Taylorsville  on  paved  State  90  is  HIDDENITE,  5  m.  (1,140  alt.,  450  pop.), 
where  the  gem  of  that  name  was  discovered  about  1879  by  William  Earl  Hidden,  a 
scientist  who  had  been  sent  to  North  Carolina  by  Thomas  A.  Edison  to  look  for  platinum. 
The  transparent  crystals,  ranging  in  color  from  light  yellow  to  emerald  green,  are  found 
nowhere  else  in  the  world;  an  appreciable  quantity  of  zircon  has  also  been  found  here. 
The  finest  specimen  of  hiddenite,  in  the  American  Museum  of  Natural  History,  is  2%  by 
V2  by  Ys  inches;  the  best  collection  is  in  the  Colburn  Museum  (see  asheville).  Its 
sulphur  springs  made  Hiddenite  a  health  resort  until  the  hotel  burned  down.  When  the 
mines  ceased  operations  Hiddenite  became  a  quiet  mountain  village. 

STONY  POINT,  9.5  m.  (700  pop.),  is  known  for  the  first  emerald  mine  in  the  United 
States.  After  the  first  gem  had  been  found  in  1875  a  mine,  of  which  no  traces  remain, 
was  operated  for  a  brief  period.  One  emerald  from  this  mine,  weighing  nearly  9  ounces, 
is  in  the  American  Museum  of  Natural  History.  Geologists  maintain  that  this  section  has 
immense  undeveloped  mineral  wealth. 

MILLERSVILLE,  62  m.  (L),  has  a  small  cotton  mill,  a  score  or  more 
boxlike  houses  occupied  by  operatives,  and  a  few  stores.  From  the  long  con- 
crete bridge  across  the  Catawba  River,  63  m.,  is  visible  no  yards  to  the  R. 
Oxford  Dam  (power-house  open;  fishing,  boating,  swimming).  A  walkway 
across  the  dam  affords  a  view  of  Lookout  Shoals  Lake  (L),  with  a  30-mile 
shore  line,  and  Oxford  Lake  (R),  even  larger.  South  of  the  dam  (R)  is 
POLYCARP  (picnic  grounds),  employees'  village  of  the  Duke  Power  Co. 

CONOVER,  72  m.  (1,060  alt.,  973  pop.),  is  a  textile-  and  furniture-manu- 
facturing town,  many  of  whose  employees  live  in  the  surrounding  communi- 
ties. 

Conover  is  at  the  junction  with  US  70-64  (see  tour  26c). 


TOUR       I     8 


Twin   Oaks — Blowing   Rock — Marion — Rutherfordton — (Chesnee,  S.   C); 

US  221. 

Twin  Oaks — South  Carolina  Line,  168  m. 

East  Tennessee  &  Western  North  Carolina  R.R.  intersects  route  at  Boone  and  Linville; 
Clinchfield  R.R.  roughly  parallels  it  between  Woodlawn  and  the  South  Carolina  Line. 
Roadbed  paved  throughout. 
Hotels  in  towns  and  resorts;  tourist  homes  and  camps  along  the  route. 

This  route  crosses  wide-flung  ranges,  giving  access  to  peaks,  gorges,  water- 
falls, and  interesting  natural  phenomena,  and  penetrates  the  busy  and  closely 
settled  area  of  the  foothills  bordering  the  Piedmont  Plateau. 

US  221  branches  southwest  from  its  junction  with  US  21  {see  tour  16) 
in  TWIN  OAKS,  0  m.  (2,430  alt.,  20  pop.),  a  crossroads.  Sheep  from  this 
section  furnish  much  of  the  cooperatively  marketed  wool  used  in  the  manu- 
facture of  the  hand-loomed  and  machine-made  homespun  for  which  western 
North  Carolina  is  widely  known.  There  is  no  railroad  in  Alleghany  County 
and  no  paved  highway  served  the  region  until  1920.  The  population,  entirely 
rural,  is  evenly  distributed. 

At  13  m.  US  221  crosses  the  South  Fork  of  New  River,  a  potential  source 
of  hydroelectric  power. 

JEFFERSON,  24  m.  (2,940  alt.,  296  pop.),  seat  of  Ashe  County,  was 
founded  in  1800  and  named  for  Thomas  Jefferson.  Rows  of  blackheart  cherry 
trees  and  weathered  old  buildings  line  the  main  street.  The  town  is  almost 
surrounded  by  mountains.  To  the  west,  cutting  off  the  afternoon  sun,  is 
Paddy  (4,200  alt.),  named  for  a  man  who  was  hanged  at  its  base.  Phoenix 
Mountain  (4,700  alt.)  is  to  the  north  and  Nigger  Mountain  (5,000  alt.)  to 
the  south. 

Ashe  County,  named  for  Samuel  Ashe,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1795- 
98),  is  a  mountainous  plateau  with  a  mean  elevation  of  more  than  3,000 
feet.  There  are  said  to  be  more  cattle  than  people  in  the  county,  and  more 
sheep  than  cattle,  yet  the  estimated  idle  range  could  graze  as  many  more. 
A  horse  show  is  an  important  part  of  the  Jefferson  Fourth  of  July  celebration. 

The  mountain  farm  lands  are  fertile  and  cultivated  to  the  summits.  One 
of  the  richest  iron  deposits  in  the  State,  the  undeveloped  Ballou  Iron  Mine, 
is  in  the  northern  part  of  the  county. 

Right  from  Jefferson  on  State  681  is  CRUMPLER,  9  m.  (600  pop.),  in  mountainous 
bluegrass  country.  Here  are  All  Healing  Springs  and  Bromide  Arsenic  Springs, 
once  popular  with  tourists  and  health  seekers. 

412 


TOUR     I  8  4T3 

At  25  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  unimproved  road. 

Left  on  this  road;  at  the  summit  of  NIGGER  MOUNTAIN,  4  m.  (5,000  alt.),  is  a 
cave  once  used  as  a  hide-out  by  runaway  Negro  slaves.  The  isolated  summit  affords 
wide  views. 

WEST  JEFFERSON,  26  m.  (3,005  alt.,  704  pop.),  is  the  market  and 
railroad  town  for  this  section.  The  Kraft-Phenix  Cheese  Corporation 
Plant  (open),  uses  approximately  15,000  pounds  of  milk  a  day.  The  Pres- 
byterian Church,  a  modern  structure  built  of  biotitic  granite  quarried  on 
Buffalo  Creek,  gleams  darkly  with  the  mica  in  the  rock. 

BOONE,  52  m.  (3,234  alt.,  1,295  P°P-)>  tne  seat  °^  Watauga  County,  is 
almost  directly  under  Howards  Knob  (4,451  alt.).  The  town  was  named  for 
Daniel  Boone  whose  home  was  in  this  section  (1760-69).  About  1760  the 
great  hunter  crossed  the  mountains  through  Deep  Gap  into  the  unexplored 
forests  around  the  Watauga  River. 

Bishop  August  Gottlieb  Spangenberg  and  Henry  Anties,  while  seeking 
a  site  for  a  Moravian  settlement  in  1752  (see  winston-salem),  rode  through 
what  is  now  Boone  and  the  adjacent  valley  of  the  New  River. 

Sections  of  Watauga  and  Ashe  Counties,  together  with  adjacent  areas  now 
in  the  State  of  Tennessee,  were  once  included  in  the  Watauga  Settlements. 
The  region  belonged  to  North  Carolina,  but  being  so  far  from  the  jurisdic- 
tion of  any  government,  the  settlers  in  1772,  led  by  John  Sevier  and  James 
Robertson,  organized  as  the  Watauga  Association,  a  little  republic  with  a 
written  constitution.  A  peace  commission  was  formed  and  courts  were  organ- 
ized with  stated  sittings.  Swift  justice  was  administered,  as  in  the  case  of 
a  horse  thief  arrested  on  Monday,  tried  on  Wednesday,  and  hanged  on 
Friday  of  the  same  week. 

On  one  occasion  in  1776  hostilities  between  Indians  and  Wataugans  broke 
out  with  such  suddenness  that  the  settlers  had  to  run  pell-mell  for  a  block- 
house, leaving  behind  the  Bibles  in  the  church.  A  sally  party  was  met  with 
jubilation  when  it  returned  with  the  Bibles  and  the  scalps  of  11  Indians. 
In  1 778  North  Carolina  asserted  itself,  and  the  sovereignty  of  the  little  back- 
woods republic  disappeared  for  all  time. 

Boone  is  the  terminus  of  the  narrow-gage  East  Tennessee  and  Western 
North  Carolina  R.R.  (its  eastern  section  formerly  known  as  the  Linville 
River  R.R.),  built  in  1886  as  a  logging  railroad,  and  now  a  general  utility 
line  called  "Tweetsie"  by  the  people  it  serves  in  this  mountain  region. 
"Tweetsie"  takes  four  hours  to  make  her  tortuous  66-mile  run,  barring  stops 
for  "critters"  to  get  off  the  tracks  or  for  delivery  of  a  spool  of  thread  or  bottle 
of  medicine  to  a  waiting  housewife. 

The  mountains  are  heavily  wooded;  rivers  and  streams  abound  with  bass, 
speckled  and  rainbow  trout.  The  county  has  an  active  camp  of  the  Izaak 
Walton  League. 

The  Appalachian  State  Teachers  College  has  a  campus  surrounded 
by  mountains.  Rock  walls  and  walks  connect  sturdy  buildings  of  brick  and 
stone,  and  the  grounds  are  planted  with  rhododendron,  azalea,  and  balsam 
and  shaded  by  tall  white  pines. 


414  TOURS 

The  college  has  an  enrollment  of  about  1,000,  exclusive  of  the  summer 
term.  Founded  in  1899  by  B.  B.  and  D.  D.  Dougherty,  as  Watauga  Academy, 
the  institution,  now  State-operated,  comprises  a  demonstration  school,  a 
high  school,  and  a  four-year  college.  The  school  farms  part  of  its  600  acres 
and  maintains  its  own  hospital  and  power  plant. 

Boone  is  at  the  junction  with  US  421  {see  tour  25). 

South  of  Boone  the  highway  makes  a  winding  climb  through  low  moun- 
tains where  rhododendron  flourishes  along  the  banks  of  streams. 

BLOWING  ROCK,  61  m.  (3,586  alt.,  503  pop.)  {see  tour  ig),  is  at  the 
junction  with  US  321  {see  tour  ig). 

Between  Blowing  Rock  and  Linville  US  221 — called  the  Yonahlossee  Trail 
from  yanu  (Cherokee,  blac\  bear) — follows  the  general  course  of  old  Indian 
traces.  The  drive  along  the  crest  of  the  Blue  Ridge  is  nowhere  below  3,500 
feet  in  altitude.  In  late  June  rhododendron  blooms  so  luxuriantly  that  the 
sky  seems  to  glow  with  its  deep  pink. 

At  63.6  m.,  where  an  arrow  marker  points  to  Grandfather  Mountain,  the 
profile  of  an  old  man  lying  in  repose  is  clearly  discernible.  This  formation 
dominates  the  route  between  Blowing  Rock  and  Linville  and  as  it  rises  in 
one  long  sweep  gives  an  impression  of  great  height. 

At  72  m.  is  the  marked  entrance  (L)  to  the  Rhododendron  Gardens 
{blooming  season:  azalea,  May;  laurel,  early  June;  rhododendron,  late  June), 
a  500-acre  natural  tract  of  rhododendron,  wild  azalea,  and  mountain  laurel. 

At  77.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  Forest  Service  truck  trail. 

Left  on  this  trail  (better  negotiated  on  foot)  to  GRANDMOTHER  GAP,  1  m.,  whence 
a  foot  trail  leads  1  m.  to  a  lookout  tower  on  the  summit  of  GRANDMOTHER  MOUN- 
TAIN (4,686  alt.).  At  Grandmother  Gap  the  Blue  Ridge  Parkway  branches  (R)  toward 
Linville  Falls. 

At  79  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  Grandfather  Mountain  toll  road,  at  the 
highest  point  on  the  Yonahlossee  Trail  (4,355  alt.). 

Right  on  this  road  (graded;  open  May  to  Dec.;  50$  for  car  and  driver,  25$  for  each 
additional  person)  is  a  parking  place,  1  m.,  affording  extensive  views.  A  foot  trail  leads 
0.5  m.  to  the  peak  of  GRANDFATHER  MOUNTAIN  (5,964  alt.). 

In  1794  the  French  botanist  Andre  Michaux  climbed  to  the  top  and  triumphantly 
sang  the  Marseillaise,  believing  this  to  be  the  highest  point  in  North  America.  Grand- 
father's great  stone  face,  then  as  today,  "was  carved  in  rock  and  plumed  with  ferns,  and 
in  the  furrows  of  his  face,  worn  by  the  lapse  of  time,  clung  and  crept  the  most  beautiful 
flowers  and  vines." 

Crowning  the  peak  is  a  scattered  growth  of  red  spruce  (Picea  rubra),  locally  called 
tamarack,  whose  trunks  rise  straight  and  without  branches  up  to  about  40  feet. 

The  panorama  from  Grandfather  includes  to  the  northeast  Flat  Top  of  the  Blue  Ridge, 
and  on  clear  days  Pilot  Mountain.  Southeast  are  the  Brushies,  with  the  peak  of  Hibriten 
outstanding,  and  the  long  low  ridge  of  the  South  Mountains.  To  the  south  the  Linville 
River  is  walled  in  by  the  Linville  Mountains  on  one  side  and  the  sharply  cleft  Jonas 
Ridge  on  the  other.  Table  Rock  and  Hawksbill  are  outstanding  on  Jonas  Ridge.  Farther 
south  is  the  Old  Shaky  Range.  About  southwest  are  the  remote  Blacks,  whose  Mount 
Mitchell  is  the  highest  peak  east  of  the  Mississippi. 


TOUR    I  8  415 

LINVILLE,  81.5  m.  (3,623  alt.,  500  pop.). 

Season:  June  i-Sept.  30. 

Accommodations:  3  resort  hotels;  furnished  cottages;  children's  summer  camps. 

Golf:  Linville  Golf  Club,  2  courses,  36  holes,  greens  fee,  $2. 

Annual   Events:   Horse   show,   Aug.;    Men's  Handicap   Golf  Tournaments,   July   4   and 

Labor  Day;  Ladies'  and  Men's  Invitation  Golf  Tournaments,  Aug.;  Skeet  Tournament, 

July;  Barter  Theater,  occasional  summer  performances. 

Linville  is  a  cottage-colony  summer  resort  in  a  16,000-acre  natural  park. 
Rustic  houses,  shrub-banked,  line  shady  roads  that  lead  from  a  broad, 
tamarack-shaded  green.  In  addition  to  the  activities  at  the  golf  club  and  the 
lake,  Linville  River  affords  trout  fishing.  Since  1933  the  Barter  Theater,  a 
New  York  troupe,  has  presented  plays  every  other  Friday  evening  from  July 
to  September.  Barter  is  accepted  for  admission  when  proffered.  Proceeds 
from  the  horse  show  go  to  Crossnore  School. 

Right  from  Linville  on  State  181  is  MONTEZUMA,  2  m.  (3,797  alt.,  150  pop.),  a 
station  on  the  East  Tennessee  &  Western  North  Carolina  R.R.  (narrow-gage),  which 
attains  an  elevation  of  4,045  feet  at  Linville  Gap. 

NEWLAND,  5  m.  (3,589  alt.,  328  pop.),  seat  of  Avery  County,  is  the  highest  county 
seat  in  North  Carolina.  At  the  headwaters  of  the  North  Toe  River,  it  was  first  called 
Old  Fields  of  Toe,  when  it  was  a  muster  ground  for  forces  to  fight  the  Indians.  Some 
of  the  Kings  Mountain  Boys  assembled  here  to  start  their  march   {see  tour  31c). 

Avery  County,  the  100th  and  last  county  created  in  North  Carolina  (191 1),  was  named 
for  Col.  Waightstill  Avery  (1741-1821),  Revolutionary  patriot,  and  first  Attorney 
General  of  North  Carolina,  who,  when  challenged  to  a  duel  by  young  Andrew  Jackson, 
allowed  Jackson  to  fire,  and  then  marched  up  to  lecture  him  on  his  hotheadedness. 
Avery  is  one  of  the  most  mountainous  of  all  North  Carolina  counties.  Principal  products 
are  mica  and  feldspar,  shrubbery,  garden  truck,  and  lumber. 

At  83  m.  are  the  LINVILLE  GOLF  COURSE  and  LAKE  KAWANA 
{swimming,  boating).  South  of  the  lake  are  extensive  nurseries  where, 
in  season,  packers  under  open  sheds  wrap  evergreens  and  flowering 
plants  for  shipment.  For  almost  a  mile  the  road  passes  through  a  pine-bough 
tunnel. 

At  84.5  m.  the  highway  crosses  ANTHONY  LAKE  (private),  part  of 
the  Howard  Marmon  estate. 

The  route  crosses  the  Linville  River  at  PINEOLA,  85  m.  (3,538  alt.,  310 
pop.),  on  the  edge  of  the  Grandfather  Division  of  the  Pisgah  National  Forest 
(see  national  forests).  The  Forest  Service  has  planted  spruce  here  on  an 
extensive  cut-over  area. 

The  State  maintains  the  DANIEL  BOONE  GAME  REFUGE  of  44,000 
acres  in  the  forest  between  Pineola  and  Edgemont.  Deer,  elk,  and  other 
game  have  been  placed  in  the  area,  and  the  streams  have  been  stocked  with 
trout. 

At  CROSSNORE,  90  m.  (3,546  alt.,  181  pop.),  is  Crossnore  School 
(R),  housed  in  14  buildings,  some  of  local  river  rock,  on  a  250-acre  moun- 
tain tract.  The  school,  with  an  enrollment  of  about  800,  was  founded  in 
191 1  by  Dr.  Mary  Martin  Sloop.  It  affords  educational  opportunities,  with 
emphasis  on  arts  and  crafts,  to  hundreds  of   mountain  boys,  girls,  and 


416  TOURS 

adults.  Dr.  Eustace   Sloop,  husband   of  the  founder,   heads  the  Garrett 
Memorial  Hospital,  a  stone  building  in  the  school  group. 

At  90.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  paved  State  194,  the  Three-Mile  Creek  Rd. 

Right  on  State  194  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road,  1.5  m. ;  L.  0.5  m.  on  this  road  to 
the  Site  of  Uncle  Jake  Carpenter's  Cabin,  marked  only  by  a  barn.  From  1845  until 
his  death  in  1920  Uncle  Jake  recorded  local  deaths.  His  notebook  includes: 

"Al  Wiseman  age  76  Aug  9  dide  1899.  He  made  brandy  by  10000.  Franky  Davis  age 
87  dide  Sept  10  1842.  She  fite  wolves  all  nite  at  sugar  camp  to  sav  her  caff  threw 
chunks  of  fire  the  camp  ware  half-mil  from  horn  she  had  nerve  to  fite  wolf  all  nite. 
Margit  Carpenter  age  87  dide  jun  5  1875  ware  good  womin  to  pore  when  she  ware 
amind  to  be.  She  did  not  have  no  bed  to  slep  on  she  slep  on  her  skin  to  mak  lik  hard 
times.  No  womin  has  to  li  on  her  skin  when  she  war  marrid.  Joe  Sing  age  70  dide  nov 
15  1890.  He  robed  by  nite  made  rales  by  day.  Wm.  Davis  age  100.8  dide  Oct  5  1841 
ware  old  soldier  in  rev  war  an  got  his  thi  broke  in  las  fite  at  Kings  Montin.  He  ware  a 
farmer  and  mad  brandy  and  never  had  no  dronkerds  in  famely.  Davis  Frank  age  72 
dide  July  29  1842  ware  a  fin  man  but  mad  sum  brandy  that  warnt  no  good.  Homer 
Hines  age  28  dide  July  shot  hisself  cos  of  womin  and  whusky.  Dogs  run  after  him. 
Charles  McKinney  age  79  dide  may  10  1852  ware  a  farmer  lived  in  blew  ridge  had  4 
womin  cors  marrid  1  live  in  McKinney  gap  all  went  to  fields  to  mak  grane  all  went  to 
crib  for  corn  all  went  to  smok  hous  for  mete  he  killed  75  to  80  hogs  a  year  and  womin 
never  had  no  words  bout  his  havin  so  many  womin.  Thare  ware  42  childen  belong  to 
him  they  all  went  to  prechin  together  nothing  said  he  made  brandy  all  his  lif  never  had 
no  foes  got  along  fin  with  everbody  like  him.  Wm  Carpenter  age  76  dide  nov  15  1881 
war  fin  honter  kilt  bar  and  wolves  by  100  dere  by  100." 

LINVILLE  FALLS,  96  m.  (3,325  alt.,  52  pop.)  takes  its  name  from  the 
spectacular  falls  and  steep,  wooded  gorge  of  the  Linville  River. 

Left  from  the  village  on  graded  State  105  (Kistler  Memorial  Highway)  is  a  rough 
stone  Monument  to  Andrew  M.  Kistler  (1871-1931),  1.5  m.,  an  advocate  of  good 
roads  for  the  mountain  section.  Left  from  this  marker  0.9  m.  on  a  dirt  road  to  a  parking 
space  in  the  yard  of  a  farmhouse,  where  markers  indicate  vantage  points. 

1.  Left  from  the  parking  space  0.7  m.  on  a  trail  to  the  first  cascade,  UPPER  FALLS, 
where  the  water  rushes  over  a  smooth  12-foot  shelf  of  rock. 

2.  Right  from  the  parking  space  0.5  m.  on  a  trail  to  the  LOWER  FALLS,  where  the 
river  drops  90  feet  over  great  boulders. 

The  short  but  boldly  broken  range  of  Jonas  Ridge  with  its  sheer  precipices  forms  the 
eastern  wall  of  the  canyon.  The  cliffs  of  the  Linville  Mountains  rim  it  on  the  west. 
Hawksbill  (4,030  alt.)  and  Table  Rock  (3,909  alt.)  are  the  most  clearly  defined  peaks 
on  Jonas  Ridge,  others  being  Chimney  and  Gingercake  Mountains. 

The  rugged  sides  of  Linville  Gorge  are  carved  out  of  solid  rock  and  crowned  with  a 
forest  of  evergreens.  Trees  great  and  small  grow  out  of  the  walls  of  the  ravine;  some 
lean  far  over  the  river  from  the  crannies  that  give  them  precarious  rootholds.  Rhododen- 
dron grows  thick  among  the  hemlocks  on  the  slopes. 

Near  Linville  Falls  are  vantage  points  from  which  are  visible  the  mysterious  Brown 
Mountain  Lights  (see  tour  26c). 

Between  Linville  Falls  and  Woodlawn,  US  221  drops  downgrade.  At 
101.5  m.  (R),  300  yards  from  the  highway,  is  GILKEYS  CAVE  (LIN- 
VILLE CAVERNS),  a  cavern  with  several  side  chambers,  extending  about 
a  mile  back  into  the  mountain.  Within  are  stalactites  and  stalagmites  pos- 
sessing refractory  powers,  and  a  stream  and  pools  of  clear  water. 

At  WOODLAWN,  111  m.  (1,394  a^-j  5°  P°P-)»  ls  a  limestone  quarry 
operated  by  the  State  Highway  Commission  with  convict  labor. 


TOUR     I  8  417 

Woodlawn  is  at  the  junction  with  State  26  (see  tour  20B). 
At  116.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  graveled  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  junction  with  another  graveled  road,  1.2  m. ;  L.  0.5  m.  on 
this  road  to  the  Pete  Murphy  Fish  Hatchery  (open),  with  a  seasonal  capacity  of 
600,000  rainbow  trout,  bass,  and  bream. 


At  118  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  64  (see  tour  26c). 


MARION,  120  m.  (1,437  alt.,  2,467  pop.),  seat  of  McDowell  County, 
is  a  textile-manufacturing  town,  named  for  Gen.  Francis  Marion,  Revolu- 
tionary leader  known  as  "the  Swamp  Fox."  The  town  was  established  soon 
after  1842.  The  county's  name  honors  Revolutionary  Col.  Joseph  McDowell 
(see  tour  26c).  First  settlements  on  the  town  site  were  made  on  land  grants 
to  Continental  soldiers. 

Until  the  courthouse  was  built  in  1844,  a  room  in  Col.  Jonathan  L.  Car- 
son's house  was  reserved  for  court  sessions,  with  a  temporary  jail  in  the 
attic.  The  first  store  was  for  the  sale  of  whisky. 

On  record  in  McDowell  County,  dated  Nov.  10,  1795,  is  a  copy  of  the 
will  of  Robert  Morris  (1734- 1806),  Philadelphia  merchant  who  helped 
finance  the  American  Revolution  but  died  a  bankrupt.  He  was  a  signer  of 
the  Declaration  of  Independence.  In  1781  he  founded  the  Bank  of  North 
America  and  in  1798  he  entered  a  debtor's  prison  in  Philadelphia.  At  one 
time  Morris  owned  200,000  acres  in  this  region.  The  city  of  Asheville  was 
first  named  Morristown  (see  asheville).  After  bequeathing  his  prop- 
erty to  his  wife  and  children,  Morris  closes  the  will  with  ".  .  .  regret  at 
having  lost  a  very  large  Fortune  Acquired  by  honest  Industry  which  I  had 
long  hoped  and  expected  to  enjoy  with  my  family  during  my  own  life, 
and  then  to  distribute  it  amongst  those  of  them  that  should  outlive  me.  Fate 
has  determined  otherwise  and  we  must  submit  to  the  decree  which  I  have 
done  with  patience  and  fortitude." 

RUTHERFORDTON,  145  m.  (1,096  alt.,  2,020  pop.),  seat  of  Ruther- 
ford County,  is  at  the  foot  of  the  Blue  Ridge  on  the  edge  of  the  Piedmont 
Plateau.  Muster  place  of  some  of  the  Kings  Mountain  Boys  and  site  of 
early  gold  mines,  Rutherfordton  was  established  in  1779,  town  and  county 
being  named  for  Revolutionary  Gen.  Griffith  Rutherford  (see  tours  jo,  21b, 
and  26c).  When  Bishop  Asbury  visited  here  in  1796,  he  recorded  in  his 
journal:  "the  country  improves  in  cultivation,  wickedness,  stills,  and  mills." 

Most  important  asset  of  the  county  is  the  textile  industry,  manufacturing 
a  variety  of  products  from  cotton,  wool,  and  silk.  The  chief  crops  are  grain, 
cotton,  sweet  potatoes,  fruits,  vegetables,  and  melons. 

Gold  mines  are  still  operated  north  of  Rutherfordton.  From  1790  to  1840 
this  was  the  center  of  the  gold-mining  industry  of  the  Nation  and  $3,000,000 
worth  was  minted  on  the  spot  into  $1.00,  $2.50,  and  $5.00  pieces.  Christopher 
Bechtler,  the  first  man  in  the  United  States  to  coin  gold  dollars  (1834),  had 
a  private  mint  under  Government  sanction.  Some  of  his  dies  are  in  the  State 
Hall  of  History,  Raleigh,  and  the  old  press  on  which  the  coins  were  struck 
is  in  the  Museum  of  the  American  Numismatic  Society  in  New  York. 


418  TOURS 

Rutherford's  gold  fever  reached  its  height  in  1830  but  subsided  in  the 
greater  excitement  of  the  California  '49  rush.  Mining  was  not  resumed  in 
Rutherford  until  1931. 

Rutherfordton  is  at  the  junction  with  US  74  (see  tour  31c),  which  unites 
with  US  221  between  here  and  Forest  City. 

FOREST  CITY,  152  m.  (869  alt.,  4,069  pop.),  is  a  textile  town,  noted 
for  its  excellent  planning.  The  business  section  is  built  around  a  large  public 
plaza.  It  was  once  known  as  Burnt  Chimney  and  was  the  muster  ground  of 
the  Burnt  Chimney  Volunteers  of  the  Confederate  Army. 

Forest  City  is  at  the  eastern  junction  with  US  74  (see  tour  sic). 

At  ALEXANDER,  153.5  m.  (1,000  pop.),  sheeting,  pillow  tubing,  and 
window-shade  cloth  are  produced.  The  mills  at  CAROLEEN,  159  m. 
(1,478  pop.),  manufacture  unbleached  domestic.  AVONDALE,  160  m. 
(600  pop.),  is  one  of  the  Hanes  mill  towns.  The  mill  (open  on  application  to 
superintendent)  is  a  large  red  brick  building  (L)  in  which  chambrays  and 
draperies  are  made. 

The  highway  bypasses  HENRIETTA,  161.5  m.  (806  alt.,  1,384  pop.), 
whose  mills  produce  print  cloth  and  sheeting.  The  town  was  settled  before 
the  Revolution  by  English  emigrants,  and  was  once  known  as  High  Shoals. 

CLIFFSIDE,  165  m.  (1,654  P°P-)>  1S  on  tne  hank  of  the  wide,  muddy 
Second  Broad  River.  The  highway  winds  down  a  hill  through  the  main 
part  of  town  and  passes  (R)  the  dam  and  the  many-windowed  building  of 
the  main  Hanes  Mill  (open),  where  terry  cloth  is  made  into  beach  wear. 

At  165.5  m.  the  route  crosses  Broad  River. 

US  221  crosses  the  South  Carolina  Line  at  168  m.,  5  miles  northeast  of 
Chesnee,  S.  C.  (see  s.  c.  tour  iy). 


TOUR 


Blowing  Rock — Hickory — Lincolnton — Gastonia — (York,  S.  C);  US  321. 
Blowing  Rock — South  Carolina  Line,  94  m. 

Carolina  &  Northwestern  R.R.   parallels  route  between  Lenoir  and  the  South  Carolina 

Line. 

Paved  highway. 

Hotel  accommodations  in  cities  and  resort  towns;  many  tourist  homes  and  camps  in  the 

southern  section. 


Section  a.  BLOWING  ROCK  to  HICKORY;  42  m.,  US  321 

This  route  between  the  mountains  and  the  Piedmont  foothills  presents 
striking  contrasts  in  spring  and  fall.  The  mountains  are  just  beginning  to 
stir  with  life  in  April  when  the  gardens  a  short  distance  to  the  south  are  a 
riot  of  bloom.  Early  frosts  turn  mountain  foliage  to  russet  and  gold  while 
the  plains  still  bask  in  the  haze  of  Indian  summer. 

BLOWING  ROCK,  0  m.  (3,586  alt.,  503  pop.). 

Season:    May    i-Sept.    30. 

Accommodations:  2  year-round  hotels;  4  summer  resort  hotels;  boarding  houses;  fur- 
nished and  unfurnished  cottages;  children's  summer  camps. 

Golf:  Green  Park-Norwood  Golf  Club,  18  holes,  greens  fee,  $2. 

Annual  Events:  School  of  English  (creative  writing),  weekly  lectures,  June  15-Aug.  31; 
golf  tournaments,  June,  July,  Aug.;  horse  show,  Aug. 

Blowing  Rock,  one  of  the  oldest  resorts  in  the  southern  Appalachians,  is 
the  only  incorporated  town  on  the  Blue  Ridge  Parkway,  which  connects  the 
Shenandoah  and  Great  Smoky  Mountains  National  Parks.  The  village  was 
developed  in  the  late  1880's  when  stages  over  rough  mountain  roads  were 
the  only  means  of  access,  since  the  altitude  made  a  railway  impracticable. 

In  St.  Mary's  of  the  Hills,  on  the  main  street  of  Blowing  Rock,  hangs 
a  painting  by  Elliott  Daingerfield,  the  Madonna  of  the  Hills.  Daingerfield 
spent  his  summers  at  Blowing  Rock  for  years. 

In  Blowing  Rock  is  the  entrance  to  the  Moses  H.  Cone  Memorial  Park 
{open  weekdays;  no  automobiles  or  picnic  parties),  3.  3,750-acre  estate 
given  to  the  State  by  the  heirs  of  Moses  H.  Cone  (1857- 1908),  Greens- 
boro industrialist  (see  greensboro).  A  graded  road  and  foot  trail  lead 
to  the  summit  of  Flat  Top  (4,595  alt.).  Cone  is  buried  on  the  moun- 
tain's slope.  There  are  bridle  paths  and  wooded  walks,  including  trails 
around  two  lakes.  Here  are  one  of  the  finest  stands  of  balsam  in  the  country, 
dense  forests  of  pine,  and  a  deer  park. 

419 


420  TOURS 

Blowing  Rock  is  at  the  junction  with  US  221  (see  tour  18). 

Right  from  Blowing  Rock  on  the  marked  Glen  Burney  Trail  (hiding)  to  GLEN 
PARK,  at  the  head  of  Johns  River  gorge.  The  trail  gradually  descends  into  the  gorge 
and  parallels  New  Years  Creek  to  GLENBURNEY  FALLS  and  on  to  GLEN  MARY 
FALLS  (benches,  picnic  tables).  The  falls  can  be  reached  by  motor  over  the  Johns 
River  Rd. 

South  of  Blowing  Rock  US  321  penetrates  a  portion  of  the  Grandfather 
Division  of  Pisgah  National  Forest  (see  national  forests).  The  route 
descends,  first  abruptly,  revealing  extensive  views,  then  more  gradually  as  it 
enters  the  fertile  Yadkin  Valley. 

At  2  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  marked  improved  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  BLOWING  ROCK  (parking  space,  refreshment  stands  open 
in  summer),  0.7  m.,  an  immense  cliff  (3,656  alt.)  overhanging  the  JOHNS  RIVER 
GORGE  with  its  valley  2,000  to  3,000  feet  below.  The  Blowing  Rock  is  so  called  be- 
cause the  rocky  walls  of  the  gorge  form  a  flume  through  which  the  northwest  wind  at 
times  sweeps  with  such  force  that  it  returns  to  the  sender  light  objects  cast  over  the  void. 
This  current  of  air  flowing  upward  prompted  the  Ripley  cartoon  about  "the  only  place 
in  the  world  where  snow  falls  upside  down."  Visible  from  the  rock  down  the  gorge  to 
the  southwest  are  Hawksbill  Mountain  and  Table  Rock.  To  the  west  are  Grandfather 
and  Grandmother  Mountains. 

Many  honeymooning  couples  visit  Blowing  Rock,  long  the  legendary  haunt  of  lovers. 
It  is  told  that  two  Indian  braves,  fighting  for  the  chieftain's  daughter,  struggled  all  day 
up  and  down  the  narrow  ridge.  When  the  stronger  warrior  cast  his  opponent  over  the 
cliff  the  maiden  realized  the  defeated  brave  was  the  one  she  loved  and  she  implored 
the  God  of  the  Winds  to  save  him.  The  Wind  caught  up  the  warrior  and  lifted  him 
through  the  air  to  safety.  Since  that  day  the  Wind  has  returned  any  object  tossed  over 
the  gorge. 

Another  legend  relates  that  the  Madonna  of  the  Hills,  on  the  morning  of  the  summer 
solstice,  walks  out  of  the  hills  here  to  greet  the  Dawn.  If  her  coming  is  attended  by  blue 
skies,  fields  will  yield  abundant  crops  to  bring  gladness  to  the  hill  country;  but  if  clouds 
mask  the  peaks  and  mists  roll  out  of  the  hollows  to  cling  about  her  feet,  barren  fields, 
sadness,  and  want  are  in  store. 

At  3.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  graveled  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  Rock  Knob  Observation  Tower,  2  m.,  a  lookout  that  affords 
wide  views. 

PATTERSON,  15.3  m.  (1,253  alt.,  187  pop.),  on  the  Yadkin  River,  is  on 
the  site  of  a  large  Saura  Indian  village  reported  by  an  explorer  in  1671. 

Left  from  Patterson  on  graveled  State  268  through  Happy  Valley's  farm  lands. 

At  LEGERWOOD,  3  m.  (75  pop.),  is  the  Patterson  School,  founded  in  1910  and 
maintained  for  mountain  boys  by  the  Episcopal  Church.  During  the  summer,  boys  earn 
tuition  by  work  on  the  school  farm.  The  curriculum  includes  courses  in  handicrafts. 
Weekly  church  services  are  held  in  the  more  than  century-old  Chapel  of  Rest,  the  com- 
munity church. 

At  5  m.  (R)  is  Fort  Defiance  (visitors  welcome)  on  a  little  knoll  commanding  a 
wide  view  of  the  valley.  This  big  old  farmhouse  has  heavy  exposed  timbers,  most  of 
them  whipsawed,  joined  with  hand-made  nails.  The  house  has  been  weatherboarded  and 
has  a  modern  tin  roof.  Window  cornices,  mirrors,  and  other  furniture  were  shipped 
from  Liverpool  to  Charleston,  S.  C,  thence  by  wagon  to  Happy  Valley.  The  house  also 
contains  relics  of  Indian  and  Revolutionary  days.  Since  Gen.  William  Lenoir  (1751- 
1839),  Revolutionary  officer  and  Kings  Mountain  leader,  built  the  mansion  in  1784-85, 
it    has    been    continuously   owned    and    occupied    by   his    family.   The    box  wood -enclosed 


TOUR     19  421 

family  graveyard,  which  contains  the  Grave  of  General  Lenoir,  occupies  the  site  of  the 
early  Indian  fort  from  which  the  estate  takes  its  name.  Rising  behind  Fort  Defiance  is 
INDIAN  GRAVE  MOUNTAIN,  where  a  tribe  once  camped,  leaving  graves  that  yielded 
numerous  artifacts  when  excavated  about  1900. 

At  19.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  hard-surfaced  State  90. 

Right  on  State  90  along  a  low  shelf  overhanging  a  narrow  valley  which  widens  at 
COLLETTSVILLE,  7.8  m.  (1,098  alt.,  136  pop.),  at  the  confluence  of  Mulberry  Creek 
and  the  Johns  River. 

Left  from  Collettsville  1  m.  on  a  dirt  road  to  BROWN  MOUNTAIN  BEACH  {cot- 
tages, dance  hall;  swimming,  fishing),  a  summer  resort  developed  in  the  valley  of 
Wilson  Creek  on  lands  scooped  out  by  the  disastrous  191 6  flood. 

North  of  Collettsville  State  90  parallels  Franklin  Creek.  At  11.3  m.  the  hills  begin 
to  close  in  and  the  route  skirts  sharp  cliffs. 

At  HOPEWELL  GAP,  12.4  m.,  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road.  Right  3  m.  on 
this  road  to  SAND  MOUNTAIN  (2,200  alt.),  with  an  observation  tower  on  its  summit. 

At  20  m.  is  the  top  of  WILSON  RIDGE,  with  Grassy  Knob  (L)  and  High  Knob 
(R).  From  Wilson  Ridge  State  90  follows  Estes  Mill  Creek  to  Wilson  Creek  and  up 
that  stream,  through  a  region  of  waterfalls,  sharp  divides,  and  deep  gaps. 

EDGEMONT,  27  m.  (50  pop.),  in  the  heart  of  the  Grandfather  Division  of  the 
Pisgah  National  Forest,  is  the  center  of  extensive  reforestation  activities  conducted  by  the 
U.S.  Forest  Service  and  is  on  the  southern  boundary  of  the  DANIEL  BOONE  GAME 
REFUGE  {see  national  forests). 

LENOIR,  23  m.  (1,182  alt.,  6,532  pop.),  is  a  furniture-manufacturing 
town,  and  its  proximity  to  several  mountain  resorts  attracts  many  visitors. 
On  the  outskirts  are  lumber  mills  and  yards.  The  town,  named  for  Gen. 
William  Lenoir,  is  the  seat  of  Caldwell  County;  here  is  the  ranger  station 
for  the  Grandfather  Division  of  Pisgah  National  Forest. 

The  Lenoir  High  School  Band  Building,  W.  Harper  Ave.,  is  a  three- 
story  brick  structure  for  the  exclusive  use  of  this  band.  The  organization 
owns  a  truck  for  the  transportation  of  its  instruments  and  a  bus  for  members. 
The  group  has  made  broadcasts,  phonograph  records,  and  has  appeared  in 
motion  pictures. 

1.  Left  from  Lenoir  on  Norwood  St.,  past  the  golf  course,  to  the  junction  with  a  dry- 
weather  dirt  road,  2  m. ;  L.  5  m.  on  this  road  {open  except  during  fire  season;  apply 
State  forestry  office)  to  HIBRITEN  MOUNTAIN  (2,265  alt.)  {picnic  ground,  fireplaces). 
From  the  observation  tower  are  sweeping  views  in  all  directions  to  distant  mountain 
chains. 

2.  Left  from  Lenoir  on  paved  State  18  is  KINGS  CREEK,  12  m.  (36  pop.);  R.  from 
Kings  Creek  1.5  m.  on  a  dirt  road  to  the  Hollow  Springs  Primitive  Baptist  Church, 
where  old-time  singing  has  been  held  annually  {Aug.)  since  1895. 

GRANITE  FALLS,  33  m.  (1,213  a^->  2>x47  P°P-)>  has  textile  and 
hosiery  mills  and  a  lumber  plant. 

At  38.2  m.  the  highway  crosses  the  Catawba  River  over  a  bridge  between 
two  lakes  (fishing,  boating,  swimming),  RHODHISS  (R)  and  OXFORD 
(L).  Property  of  the  Duke  Power  Co.,  these  two  lakes,  with  Lookout  Shoals 
Lake  and  Lake  James  (see  tour  26c),  were  formed  by  impounding  the 
waters  of  the  Catawba  River. 


422  TOURS 

HICKORY,  42  m.  (1,163  alt.,  7,363  pop.),  has  been  called  Hickory 
Tavern,  Hickory  Station,  and  the  City  of  Hickory,  which  with  West  Hickory 
and  Highland  has  a  population  of  more  than  10,000.  Hickory  wagons  have 
been  made  here  since  1880,  when  a  small  wagon-manufacturing  plant  was 
established.  Among  the  town's  65  industrial  concerns  are  hosiery,  cotton, 
and  knitting  mills,  iron  foundries,  and  furniture  factories.  The  Shuford 
Mills,  whose  headquarters  are  here,  comprise  one  of  the  largest  groups  of 
cordage  mills  in  the  country. 

The  Log  House  (private),  a  two-story  structure  of  logs  weatherboarded 
over,  on  a  200-acre  tract  just  inside  the  city  limits,  is  Hickory's  oldest  build- 
ing. It  was  erected  in  1828. 

Lenoir-Rhyne  College,  a  coeducational  Lutheran  institution  (400  stu- 
dents), is  housed  in  six  brick  buildings  on  a  37-acre  campus  in  northeast 
Hickory.  Shade  trees  line  the  landscaped  driveways  and  the  sloping  lawn. 
Originally  called  Lenoir  College  when  organized  in  1891  on  the  site  donated 
by  Capt.  Walter  W.  Lenoir,  the  name  was  changed  in  1923  to  honor  also 
one  of  its  greatest  benefactors,  textile-manufacturer  Daniel  E.  Rhyne. 

Carolina  Park  (open)  has  an  arboretum,  developed  by  George  F.  Ivey, 
containing  foreign  and  domestic  trees,  labeled  with  both  common  and  sci- 
entific names.  Here  also  is  the  American  Legion  Swimming  Pool  (open). 

Between  Hickory  and  Conover,  50  m.,  US  321  unites  with  US  64  (see 
tour  26c). 

Section  b.  CONOVER  to  SOUTH  CAROLINA  LINE;  44  m.  US  321 

This  section  of  US  321  runs  through  the  hills  of  the  western  Piedmont 
Plateau  past  old  houses,  scenes  of  Revolutionary  battles,  and  former  Indian 
haunts. 

At  CONOVER,  0  m.,  is  the  junction  with  State  16  (see  tour  iy).  Here 
US  321  branches  R.  from  US  64  (see  tour  26c). 

NEWTON,  3  m.  (997  alt.,  4,394  pop.),  seat  of  Catawba  County,  is  a 
textile-manufacturing  town  whose  business  section  lies  around  the  court- 
house square.  In  the  southeast  corner  of  the  square  is  a  Memorial  to  the 
Heroes  of  the  Johns  River  Massacre  in  Rutherford's  forced  march  against 
the  Cherokee  in  1776  (see  tours  21b  and  50). 

After  Adam  Sherrill  had  crossed  the  Catawba  and  received  the  first  land 
granted  in  the  area  (1748),  the  region  was  settled,  mosdy  by  Pennsylvania 
Dutch.  Catawba  College,  founded  at  Newton  in  1852,  was  moved  to  Salis- 
bury (see  tour  12).  A  Soldiers  Reunion  for  veterans  of  all  wars  is  held 
annually  (Aug.). 

1.  Left  from  Newton  on  paved  State  10  to  the  Barringer  House  (piivate),  2  m.  (L. 
of  the  forks),  built  in  1762  by  a  German  settler,  Matthias  Barringer.  The  well-preserved 
log  house  has  dovetailed  and  mortised  joints.  The  lower  floor  contains  three  rooms 
and  the  second  floor  a  single  room.  Most  of  the  logs  have  been  covered  with  weather- 
boarding.  The  subdivision  of  counties  has  placed  this  house  successively  in  Mecklenburg, 
Tryon,   Lincoln,    and    Catawba   Counties.    When    Catawba    was    formed    in    1842    court 


TOUR    19  423 

was  held  here  for  about  two  years  until  Newton  was  made  the  county  seat.  For  years 
after  the  Revolution  the  local  militia  held  an  annual  muster  here,  during  which  young 
men  drilled,  older  ones  discussed  crops  and  politics,  and  women  and  children  enjoyed 
one  of  the  few  social  gatherings  of  the  year. 

The  muster  ball  held  upstairs  in  the  Barringer  House  was  the  climax  of  the 
occasion.  A  Barringer  granddaughter  once  forded  the  swollen  South  Fork  to  come  home 
to  a  muster  ball,  holding  her  baby  and  her  bundled  party  finery  above  her  head  as  she 
swam  her  horse  across  the  flood  waters. 

2.  Right  from  Newton  on  a  marked  dirt  road  to  St.  Paul's  Church  (c.  1808),  2  m., 
part  of  whose  timbers  came  from  an  earlier  log  church  in  which  services  were  held  in 
1759.  High  galleries  reached  by  steep  steps  run  around  three  sides  of  the  interior. 

3.  Right  from  Newton  on  sand-clay  State  73  to  the  John  W.  Robinson  Farm  (visitors 
welcome),  5  m.,  part  of  a  10,000-acre  tract  granted  the  pioneer  settler,  Henric  Weidner, 
before  the  Revolution.  Beneath  a  great  oak  on  the  lawn  Weidner  conferred  with  the 
Indians;  in  1752  the  Catawba  painted  it  red  as  a  warning  to  the  settlers  that  the 
Cherokee  were  on  the  warpath.  Here  Col.  Charles  McDowell  in  1781  mustered  volunteers 
for  the  march  to  Kings  Mountain  (see  tour  31c).  Weidner  died  in  1792  and  is  buried  in 
the  family  graveyard.  Among  other  Revolutionary  relics  in  the  Robinson  house  is 
Weidner's  will,  in  which  he  disposed  of  his  10  slaves  and  "in  order  that  the  children 
might  be  more  cheerful,"  devised  to  them  two  stills. 

At  13.5  m.  on  State  73  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road  at  the  Bob  Leatherman  farm; 
L.  1.3  m.  on  this  road  to  Wesley  Chapel,  where  an  annual  singing  convention  is  held 
(Oct.)  under  a  rustic  arbor.  Most  of  the  singing  is  without  accompaniment,  and  hymn- 
books  printed  with  shaped  notes  are  used. 

4.  Left  from  Newton  on  sand -clay  State  73  to  the  junction  with  a  graded  road,  4.1  m. ; 
L.  1.2  m.  on  this  road  to  the  junction  with  another  graded  road;  R.  1.3  m.  on  this  road 
to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  L.  1.3  m.  on  the  dirt  road  to  Balls  Creek  Campground, 
•established  in  1853.  Camp  meetings  are  held  here  annually  (last  w\.  Aug.).  As  many  as 
20,000  persons  have  been  present  at  one  service. 

MAIDEN,  10  m.  (875  alt.,  1,628  pop.),  is  a  manufacturing  town.  A 
marker  (R),  18.5  m.,  indicates  the  Site  of  the  Battle  of  Ramsours  Mill 
(400  yds.  to  the  R.),  a  Revolutionary  skirmish  that  paved  the  way  for  the 
Battle  of  Kings  Mountain.  At  sunrise  on  June  20,  1780,  Francis  Locke  with 
400  patriots  surprised  and  routed  1,300  Tories  who  had  been  gathered  at  the 
spot  by  emissaries  of  Cornwallis,  preparatory  to  joining  the  British  at  Cam- 
den. The  Tuckaseege  Rd.,  which  crosses  the  bridge  over  Clarks  Creek  north 
of  the  battleground,  was  once  an  Indian  trail. 

LINCOLNTON,  19  m.  (860  alt.,  3,781  pop.),  seat  of  Lincoln  County 
and  the  oldest  town  west  of  the  Catawba  River,  is  dependent  on  cotton 
manufacturing.  In  the  leisurely  uptown  streets,  folk,  deeply  interested  in 
local  history,  often  stop  to  discuss  the  details  of  Lord  Granville's  grant  as 
casually  as  people  elsewhere  talk  of  baseball  or  the  price  of  cotton.  The  city 
and  county  were  named  for  Col.  Benjamin  Lincoln  of  the  Revolutionary 
Army. 

In  the  region  are  many  old  plantations  owned  by  descendants  of  the  pio- 
neer Germans  whose  names  have  been  Anglicized.  At  one  family  reunion 
grandchildren  present  included  Peter  Klein,  John  Kline,  Jacob  Cline,  John 
Small,  George  Little,  and  William  Short. 

After  the  Revolution  and  before  the  churches  voiced  their  disapproval 
(1858),  distilling  was  an  important  occupation  here.  One  ordained  minister 


424  TOURS 

owned  more  than  1,000  acres  and  conducted  "a  sawmill,  cotton  gin,  tan- 
yard,  blacksmith  shop,  and  distillery." 

The  county  seat  was  at  Tryon  Courthouse  (see  tour  31c)  until  Lincoln- 
ton  was  incorporated  in  1785  as  the  county  seat.  Three  years  later  the  first 
log  courthouse  was  replaced  by  one  of  planks,  painted  a  bright  red.  Two 
other  courthouses  preceded  the  present  Lincoln  County  Courthouse 
(1921),  a  stone  and  concrete  structure  with  columns  across  the  east  and 
west  facades.  Ezekiel  Polk,  grandfather  of  President  James  K.  Polk  (see 
tour  16),  was  Lincoln's  first  clerk  of  court. 

James  Pinckney  Henderson,  born  near  Lincolnton  in  1808  and  licensed  to 
practice  law  here  in  1829,  became  the  first  Governor  of  Texas  (1846-47). 

Tarleton's  Tea  Table,  on  the  square,  is  a  large  boulder  from  which  the 
British  officer  is  said  to  have  taken  his  meals.  The  Inverness  Hotel  (1840), 
NE.  of  the  square,  is  a  three-and-a-half-story  red  brick  inn,  with  interior 
hand-carved  woodwork  and  a  spiral  stairway  running  up  four  flights.  The 
exterior  has  end  chimneys  and  a  one-story  porch  in  the  center  of  its  five- 
bay  facade.  The  Michael  Hoke  House  (now  apartments),  on  a  side  street 
off  N.  Aspen,  was  built  in  1833.  It  is  a  clapboard  house  with  an  H-shaped 
plan;  its  pillared  portico  has  been  removed.  Maj.  Gen.  Robert  F.  Hoke 
(1837-1912)  was  born  here.  His  capture  of  the  Federal  force  at  Plymouth 
(see  tour  26a)  resulted  in  a  telegram  from  Jefferson  Davis  promoting  him 
to  a  major  generalship. 

Confederate  Memorial  Hall  (open  hours  vary),  E.  Pine  and  N. 
Academy  Sts.,  a  square  brick  Georgian  structure  erected  in  1813,  was  once 
the  Pleasant  Retreat  Academy,  which  advertised  that  in  1822  "boarding, 
including  firewood,  lodging,  washing,  and  candles  can  be  had  at  the  usual 
price  of  $7.50  per  month."  The  building  is  used  as  a  hall  by  the  United 
Daughters  of  the  Confederacy  and  contains  a  small  library  and  historical 
relics. 

Lincolnton  is  at  the  junction  with  State  27  (see  tour  19A). 

Right  from  Lincolnton  on  the  Tuckaseege  Rd.  to  Magnolia  Grove  (private),  6  m., 
a  residence  built  (1824)  by  David  Smith  on  the  site  of  a  pre-Revolutionary  inn  known 
as  Dellinger's  Tavern.  The  tavern  was  used  as  a  courthouse  after  the  division  of  Tryon 
County  into  Lincoln  and  Rutherford  in  1779,  its  old  springhouse  serving  as  a  jail. 

At  20.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  marked,  improved  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  LITHIA  SPRINGS,  1.5  m.;  here  is  Lincoln  Lithia  Inn  (open 
in  summer;  riding,  tennis,  swimming),  developed  in  1887  by  Benjamin  N.  Duke  and 
Gen.  Robert  F.  Hoke  on  the  latter's  estate.  The  inn  is  a  rambling  white  frame  structure 
surrounded    by    broad    verandas. 

HIGH  SHOALS,  28  m.  (724  alt.,  1,200  pop.),  is  a  textile  town  on  the 
South  Fork  of  the  Catawba  River.  The  power  dam  was  built  in  1893  when 
the  first  cotton  mill  was  established.  Recreation  grounds  (swimming,  pic- 
nicking) extend  along  the  river  and  lake  shore.  Between  1800  and  1850 
rolling  mills  and  iron  works  were  in  operation. 

At  30  m.  is  Long  Creek  Memorial  Baptist  Church,  a  modern  brick 
church  building  (1919)  on  the  site  of  one  of  the  oldest  Baptist  churches  in 


TOUR     19  425 

the  State.  The  earliest  gravestone  in  the  cemetery  is  that  of  Edward  Boyd, 
who  died  in  1728.  The  first  log  structure  on  the  site  was  used  until  a  lady 
of  the  congregation  canvassed  the  region  on  horseback  soliciting  funds  for 
a  new  church  which  was  to  have  "glass  windows." 

DALLAS,  32  m.  (784  alt.,  1,489  pop.),  was  the  seat  of  Gaston  County 
from  1846  to  191 1.  Its  square,  weathered  Old  Courthouse,  topped  with  a 
cupola,  has  been  converted  into  a  high  school  and  community  center. 

1.  Left  from  Dallas  on  paved  State  275  to  the  old  Hoyle  Place  (private),  3  m.,  a  two- 
story  log  house  built  by  Peter  Hoyle  about  1755. 

2.  Left  (north)  from  Dallas  on  a  dirt  road  to  Philadelphia  Church,  3.5  m.,  on  the 
Catawba  River.  This  Lutheran  congregation  was  organized  prior  to  1767  and  first 
called  Kastner's  (Costner's)  Chapel.  Adam  Costner,  who  came  from  Germany,  is  buried 
in  the  churchyard  beneath  a  slab  marked  1767. 

GASTONIA,  36  m.  (825  alt.,  17,093  pop.),  seat  of  Gaston  County,  is  a 
textile-manufacturing  town  surrounded  by  a  rich  agricultural  region.  Within 
Gastonia's  corporate  limits  are  several  mill  communities;  these,  for  the  most 
part,  are  composed  of  identical  though  solidly  constructed  houses.  City  and 
county  were  named  for  judge  William  Gaston  {see  new  bern). 

During  a  strike  in  1929  at  the  Loray  Mills  here,  Chief  of  Police  O.  F. 
Aderholt  was  killed  in  a  skirmish.  In  a  sensational  trial  at  Charlotte  seven 
organizers  were  convicted  of  conspiracy  to  murder  the  chief  and  received 
sentences  varying  from  five  to  25  years.  Ella  May  Wiggins,  strike  sym- 
pathizer and  mother  of  five,  was  killed  when  a  truck  load  of  unarmed 
workers  was  fired  upon.  Several  novels  written  about  this  strike  include: 
A  Stone  Came  Rolling,  by  Fielding  Burke  (Olive  Dargan);  Stride,  by 
Mary  Heaton  Vorse;  and  To  Make  My  Bread,  by  Grace  Lumpkin. 

Civic  projects  in  Gastonia  are  a  nutritional  camp  for  undernourished 
children,  and  an  interracial  council  to  promote  better  understanding  between 
whites  and  Negroes. 

The  Gastonia  Community  Center  Building,  W.  2nd  Ave.,  is  centered 
by  Memorial  Hall,  a  two-story  building  with  an  octagonal  tower  sur- 
rounded by  a  one-story  arched  porch  across  the  front.  It  was  erected  by  the 
citizens  of  Gastonia  in  memory  of  veterans  of  all  wars.  On  either  side  are 
low,  one-story  buildings  of  red  brick — the  Gaston  Public  Library  (R) 
and  the  Woman's  Clubhouse. 

Gastonia  is  at  the  junction  with  US  74  {see  tour  J/c). 

Right  from  West  Gastonia  on  a  narrow  paved  road  to  Pisgah  Church,  3  m.,  whose 
congregation  was  organized  in  1793  by  Associate  Reformed  Presbyterians  who  objected 
to  the  psalm  singing  at  Goshen  (see  tour  31c)  and  at  Long  Creek,  west  of  Bessemer 
City. 

At  5  m.  is  Karyae  Park,  recreation  and  religious  center  of  the  Adelphotia  Arachoviton 
Karyae,  a  society  of  Greek-Americans  from  Arachova,  Greece.  The  organization,  formed 
in  1932,  purchased  this  tract  at  the  foot  of  Crowders  Mountain  and  built  a  chapel, 
pavilion,  dining  hall,  and  cottages.  A  convention  is  held  annually  (Aug.). 

South  of  Gastonia  US  321  crosses  Catawba  Creek,  37  m.,  and  runs  through 
a  prosperous  residential  section  into  another  mill  district.  It  crosses  the  South 
Carolina  Line  at  44  m.,  10  miles  north  of  York,  S.  C.  {see  s.  c.  tour  16). 


TOUR 


Lincolnton — Mount  Holly — Junction  with  US  74;  State  27.  32  m. 

Seaboard  Air  Line  R.R.  parallels  route  throughout. 
Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

State  27  branches  southeast  from  US  321  in  LINCOLNTON,  0  m.  {see 
tour  19). 

At  2  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  Site  of  the  Schenck  Mill,  0.5  m.,  first  water-power 
cotton  mill  south  of  the  Potomac.  The  excavation  for  the  overshot  wheel  of  this  mill 
is  near  Old  Mill  Creek.  It  was  built  in  1813  by  Michael  Schenck,  a  Pennsylvania 
Mennonite,  who  came  to  Lincoln  County  in  1790.  The  machinery,  purchased  in  Phila- 
delphia, was  shipped  by  water  to  Charleston,  S.  C,  and  thence  by  wagon  to  Lincoln 
County. 

At  6.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  Denver  Rd. 

Left  on  this  road  past  Machpelah  Church  to  Killian's  store,  5  m. ;  R.  3  m.  on  a  dirt 
road  to  Brevard  House  {open).  Known  also  as  Mount  Tirzah,  this  frame  residence, 
surrounded  by  a  rock  wall,  has  an  elaborate  overmantel  in  one  of  the  rooms  and  a 
massive  crystal  chandelier  in  the  ballroom.  An  iron  furnace  on  the  grounds  was  called 
Mount  Tirzah  Forge  and   later  Brevard  Forge. 

On  the  Denver  Rd.  at  a  Negro  campground,  6  m.,  the  roads  fork. 

1.  Left  (north)  from  the  forks  5  m.  to  Ingleside  {private),  the  Forney  estate,  built  early 
in  1 817  by  Maj.  Daniel  M.  Forney,  who  was  commissioned  in  the  War  of  18 12,  served 
as  senator  from  Lincoln  County,  and  U.  S.  Congressman.  Gen.  Peter  Forney  (1756- 1834) 
developed  profitable  iron  mines  and  furnaces  on  the  estate.  Benjamin  Henry  Latrobe, 
who  designed  the  National  Capitol,  is  said  to  have  drawn  the  plans.  Massive  columns 
mark  the  front  elevation.  Slaves  on  the  plantation  made  the  bricks  used  in  the 
building.  The  finest  inlaid  wood  was  used  in  the  paneled  drawing  room.  A  delicate 
circular  staircase  leads  from  the  spacious  hall. 

On  the  plantation  stand  the  crumbling  remains  of  the  Log  House  built  before  the 
Revolution  by  Major  Forney's  grandfather,  Jacob  Forney,  who  came  to  North  Carolina 
in  1754.  Here  Cornwallis  and  his  men  camped  for  three  days  until  the  waters  of  the 
Catawba  subsided  to  permit  their  crossing  in  pursuit  of  Greene's  army.  They  took 
Forney's  gold  and  silver,  butchered  his  animals  and  fowls,  and  confiscated  his  grain  and 
wines. 

2.  Right  from  the  Negro  campground  at  the  forks  on  the  Denver  Rd.  4  m.  to  the 
Morrison  Estate  {private),  also  called  Cottage  Home  and  the  Hall.  The  original  house 
was  burned  and  replaced  by  the  present  one.  Dr.  Robert  Hall  Morrison,  the  first  owner, 
was  the  founder  of  Davidson  College  {see  tour  16).  Three  of  his  five  daughters  married 
men  who  became  generals  in  the  Confederate  Army  {see  charlotte).  After  Jackson's 
death,  his  horse,  Old  Fancy  or  Little  Sorrel,  was  sent  to  the  Morrison  farm  for  the 
remainder  of  his  days.  The  animal's  preserved  body  is  in  the  Confederate  Museum  at 
Richmond,  Va. 

426 


TOUR     I  9  A  427 

STANLEY,  14  m.  (1,084  P°P-)>  an  industrial  town  since  a  cotton  mill 
was  established  here  in  1891,  is  one  of  the  oldest  communities  in  Gaston 
County.  Upon  completion  of  the  old  Carolina  Central  R.R.  from  Charlotte 
in  1862,  the  town,  then  called  Brevard  Station,  became  a  concentration  point 
for  Confederate  soldiers  from  surrounding  counties. 

Right  from  Stanley  on  paved  State  275  to  the  Rhyne  House  (private),  2  m.  This 
1 1 -room  brick  home  on  Hoyles  Creek  has  been  continuously  occupied  since  1779  by 
descendants  of  Thomas  Rhyne  who  emigrated  from  Germany  during  the  Revolution. 
About  1850  fire  destroyed  most  of  the  woodwork  but  the  brick  walls  were  undamaged 
and  the  structure  was  restored.  A  cupboard  remains  from  the  original  furnishings.  It  is 
10  feet  high,  of  solid  walnut  with  inlays  of  satinwood,  put  together  with  wooden  pegs. 

MOUNT  HOLLY,  20  m.  (2,254  P°P-)>  1S  an  industrial  town  on  a  tract 
described  in  an  old  Armstrong  grant  from  George  II,  and  transferred  to 
George  Rutledge  in  1754,  as  a  parcel  of  land  "on  the  So.  side  of  the  Catawba 
River  on  Kuykendall,  the  Dutchman's  Creek."  Pennsylvania  Dutch  were 
destined  to  play  an  important  part  in  the  development  of  this  and  neighbor- 
ing counties.  Holly  trees  on  the  creek  bank  suggested  the  town's  name. 

Besides  textile  industries,  Mount  Holly  has  a  hydroelectric  plant  of  the 
Duke  Power  Co. 

The  Old  Hutchinson  Place,  W.  of  the  Mount  Holly  school  buildings, 
is  the  Site  of  the  Home  of  Robert  Alexander,  soldier  of  the  Revolution, 
planter,  and  one  of  the  first  members  of  the  general  assembly  (1781-87). 

On  the  southern  edge  of  town  is  the  Costner  Place,  called  the  Model 
Farm  by  Gen.  D.  H.  Hill  (1821-89)  when  he  came  here  after  the  War  be- 
tween the  States.  At  the  end  of  one  year  he  renamed  it  Hard  Scrabble  and 
returned  to  Charlotte. 

Left  from  Mount  Holly  on  paved  State  271  is  MOUNTAIN  ISLAND,  3  m.  (30  pop.), 
where  stands  the  old  St.  Joseph's  Roman  Catholic  Church  (1842),  associated  with 
the  early  efforts  of  the  bishop  who  later  became  James  Cardinal  Gibbons  of  Baltimore. 
In  the  plain  frame  structure  are  the  original  worn  pews  and  clear  glass  windows.  The 
Stations  of  the  Cross  are  represented  by  simple,  crudely  painted  pictures. 

During  the  pastorate  of  Father  J.  P.  O'Connell,  James  Gibbons,  then  32  years  of  age, 
was  made  bishop  and  vicar  apostolic  of  North  Carolina,  the  State's  first  Roman 
Catholic  bishop  and  the  youngest  in  America  at  that  time.  In  1869  Bishop  Gibbons 
established  the  Sisters  of  Mercy  in  the  State,  bringing  nuns  from  Charleston,  S.  C,  to 
found  schools  and  hospitals.  Among  monuments  to  his  work  are  Belmont  Abbey  and 
Cathedral  (see  tour  31c.) 

South  of  Mount  Holly  State  27  crosses  a  bridge  over  the  Catawba  River. 
Mills  border  the  highway  at  THRIFT,  25  m.  (600  pop.). 

At  27  m.  is  the  Cannon  Airport,  a  private  flying  school. 

At  30  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  74  {see  tour  31c). 


TOUR       2_    O 


(Elizabethton,  Tenn.) — Elk  Park — Spruce  Pine — Burnsville — Junction  with 

US  19-23;  US  19E. 

Tennessee  Line — Junction  with  US  19-23,  49  m. 

East  Tennessee  &  Western  North   Carolina   R.R.  parallels  route  between   Elk  Park  and 

Minneapolis;  Clinchfield  R.R.  and  Black  Mountain  R.R.  in  part  between  Spruce  Pine  and 

Burnsville. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  towns;  tourist  homes  along  route. 

This  route,  giving  access  to  mountain  vacation  areas,  crosses  and  recrosses 
the  Toe  River  in  a  section  of  the  southern  Appalachians  characterized  by 
extensive  forests  and  rushing  streams. 

US  19E  crosses  the  Tennessee  Line,  0  m.,  25  miles  south  of  Elizabethton, 
Tenn.  (see  tenn.  tour  iA). 

ELK  PARK,  1.8  m.  (3,182  alt.,  488  pop.),  is  a  mountain  town  among 
lofty  peaks.  In  the  midst  of  stores  and  dwellings  crowded  about  the  railroad 
station  is  an  old  gristmill  turned  by  a  water  wheel. 

In  this  section,  as  elsewhere  in  western  North  Carolina,  autumn  brings  a 
harvest  of  apples,  some  of  which  are  made  into  apple  butter.  The  fruit  is 
cooked  out  of  doors  in  big  iron  kettles.  Some  believe  that  only  brown  sugar 
and  cider  can  give  the  proper  flavor,  though  others  use  molasses  "sweet- 
ening." 

At  2.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  paved  State  194. 

Left  on  State  194  is  HEATON,  2  m.  (500  pop.),  where  the  route  crosses  the  ELK 
RIVER  (brown,  broo\,  speckled,  and  rainbow  trout  fishing). 

At  7  m.  is  BANNER  ELK  (4,000  alt.,  340  pop.),  a  summer  resort  in  the  Elk 
River  Valley  surrounded  by  peaks  5,000  to  6,000  feet  high.  Banner  Elk  was  the  home 
of  Shepherd  M.  Dugger  (1854-1938),  author  of  the  Balsam  Groves  of  Grandfather  Moun- 
tain (see  the  arts). 

Lees-McRae  College,  a  coeducational  junior  college  offering  vocational  training,  grew 
out  of  a  school  established  in  1900  by  the  Rev.  Edgar  Tufts,  a  Presbyterian  minister,  to 
further  education  in  his  mission  field.  The  college  is  operated  by  the  Edgar  Tufts 
Memorial  Association,  under  the  control  of  the  Presbyterian  Church  of  the  U.S.  In 
summer  the  local-stone  college  buildings  are  operated  as  a  resort  hotel,  Pinnacle  Inn. 
Students  work  out  part  of  their  tuition  fees  in  the  college  industries,  which  include 
woodworking,  ironwork,  and  weaving.  In  summer  they  work  at  various  tasks  in  con- 
nection with  the  operation  of  the  inn. 

Other  projects  of  the  association  include  Grace  Hospital,  founded  in  1907,  conspicuous 
among  the  group  of  buildings,  and  serving  the  surrounding  countryside  as  well  as  the 

428 


TOUR    2  0  429 

college;  and  Grandfather  Orphanage,  which  has  its  own  little  group  of  cottages  and 
cares  for  some  85  mountain  children.  Also  on  the  college  grounds  is  Wildcat  Lake 
(swimming,  boating,  fishing).  Skiing  is  a  winter  sport. 

East  of  Banner  Elk  cattle  and  sheep  roam  hillside  meadows  and  mountainsides  thickly 
wooded  with  rhododendron.  This  shrub  serves  as  a  thermometer  on  cold  days.  When  the 
temperature  drops,  so  do  the  long  glistening  leaves,  and  as  the  mercury  falls  lower, 
the  edges  begin  to  curl  under  until  at  zero  the  entire  leaf  is  rolled. 

At  10  m.  the  route  begins  to  wind  down  Bowers  Mountain  in  a  series  of  sharp, 
corkscrew  turns. 

VALLE  CRUCIS,  15  m.  (2,720  alt.,  200  pop.),  overlooks  the  Watauga  River  Valley 
where  far  below  two  creeks  form  a  clearly  defined  cross.  On  a  slope  (L)  is  the  Valle 
Crucis  School  for  girls,  outgrowth  of  a  mission  founded  by  the  Episcopal  Church  in 
1842  and  reorganized  in  1895.  The  main  buildings  are  of  cement  blocks,  dominated  by 
the  little  Church  of  the  Holy  Cross,  fashioned  of  local  gray  stone.  When  the  mission 
was  founded,  using  the  Indian  expression,  there  was  but  "one  smoke"  in  the  valley. 
During  the  summer  the  plant  is  operated  as  a  resort  hotel.  The  school  owns  about  500 
acres  of  land  and  operates  its  own  farm,  apple  orchard,  dairy,  and  hydroelectric  plant.  In 
the  Mast  Cabin  (open),  a  typical  pioneer  log  cabin  erected  in  1812,  are  old  family  looms 
still  used   (1939)    (see  the  arts). 

VILAS,  19  m.  (2,811  alt.,  50  pop.),  is  at  the  junction  with  US  421   (see  tour  25). 

At  CRANBERRY  3.3  m.  (3,202  alt.,  350  pop.),  is  an  old  iron  mine  said 
to  have  been  worked  by  Cherokee  Indians. 

South  of  Cranberry  US  19E  follows  the  general  course  of  the  North  Toe 
River  (Ind.  Estatoe)  as  it  grows  from  a  small  stream  to  a  mountain  river. 

At  MINNEAPOLIS,  6.5  m.  (3,400  alt.,  450  pop.),  are  the  largest  de- 
posits of  amphibole  asbestos  in  the  State.  It  is  shipped  to  plants  manufac- 
turing fireproof  roofing,  curtains,  clothing,  and  insulation  for  furnaces  and 
steam  piping. 

At  11  m.  the  route  crosses  Roaring  Creek  near  the  point  where  it  flows 
into  Toe  River.  This  tributary  is  associated  with  the  men  from  Virginia, 
what  is  now  Tennessee,  and  North  Carolina  who  passed  this  way  going 
to  Kings  Mountain.  The  frontiersmen,  fresh  from  a  campaign  against  the 
Indian  Confederation  of  the  Ohio,  during  which  they  had  learned  and 
adopted  Indian  tactics,  were  aroused  by  Col.  Patrick  Ferguson's  threat  to 
destroy  the  mountain  region. 

Mounted  woodsmen  numbering  about  a  thousand  under  Cols.  William 
Campbell,  Isaac  Shelby,  and  John  Sevier  {see  tours  18  and  26c)  broke 
camp  at  Sycamore  Shoals  on  the  morning  of  Sept.  26,  1780,  and  rode  into 
the  mountains.  The  cavalcade  ate  dinner  on  the  Grassy  Bald  of  the  Roan 
the  next  day.  There  two  men  deserted  to  warn  Ferguson  at  Gilbert  Town. 

On  reaching  Gillespie  Gap,  near  the  present  Little  Switzerland  {see  tour 
20B),  the  company  divided,  fearing  ambuscade,  because  by  this  time  the 
deserters  could  have  reached  Ferguson.  Colonel  Campbell's  force  followed 
the  crest  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  dropped  off  the  south  side,  and  camped  in 
Turkey  Cove.  The  other  detachment  camped  up  North  Cove  by  Honeycutt 
Branch.  From  that  point  they  crossed  the  south  end  of  Linville  Mountain 
and  took  the  Yellow  Mountain  Road  down  Paddie  Creek  to  the  Catawba 
River.  The  men  in  the  Turkey  Cove  camp  rode  into  the  lowlands  across  the 


430  TOURS 

present  site  of  Lake  James.  When  the  victorious  woodsmen  straggled  back 
again,  Ferguson  was  dead  and  his  entire  force  slain  or  captured  (see  tour 
Sic). 

A  mica  mine  is  operated  at  PLUMTREE,  14.5  m.  (2,840  alt.,  no  pop.). 

The  valley,  rimmed  by  Humpback  and  Yellow  Mountains,  widens  into 
agricultural  land  at  about  20  m.  Sunnybrook  Farm  {tourist  cabins),  22  m., 
was  homesteaded  in  1778  by  Samuel  Bright,  first  white  settler  in  the  Toe 
River  Valley.  When  he  moved  farther  west  his  land  was  taken  up  by 
William  Wiseman  who  had  left  London  as  a  stowaway  when  a  boy.  In  1794, 
when  he  was  gathering  rare  plants  for  the  palace  grounds  at  Versailles,  the 
French  botanist  Andre  Michaux  visited  Wiseman  and  taught  the  settlers 
how  to  prepare  the  plentiful  wild  ginseng  for  the  Chinese  market.  A  de- 
scendant of  William  Wiseman  owns  part  of  the  original  farm. 

SPRUCE  PINE,  28  m.  (2,517  alt.,  1,546  pop.),  is  noted  for  the  mining 
and  marketing  of  feldspar  and  kaolin,  almost  limitless  in  the  region.  Truck 
loads  of  white  rock  on  the  roads  are  on  the  way  to  grinding  plants  where 
the  feldspar  is  pulverized,  then  shipped  to  be  used  as  a  constituent  of  glass, 
in  the  glaze  on  chinaware,  bathroom  fixtures  or  other  ceramics,  or  as  an 
ingredient  in  scouring  powders. 

The  Spruce  Pine  mining  district  is  one  of  the  few  areas  in  the  United 
States  that  ship  refined  primary  kaolin,  or  china  clay.  In  1937  the  TVA  had 
developed  methods  of  processing  the  North  Carolina  kaolins  to  the  point 
where  the  finished  product  rivals  any  English  kaolins  and  is  equal  to  the 
world's  best.  Mica  sparkles  in  the  soil  of  the  entire  region. 

Scrap  mica,  a  byproduct  of  sheet  and  punch  mica,  is  pulverized  by  a  wet- 
grinding  process  and  used  in  wallpaper,  rubber,  paint,  decorative  plaster, 
and  axle  grease.  A  boy's  emergency  use  of  mica  in  a  bicycle  tire  in  191 1 
resulted  in  its  adoption  on  a  large  scale  by  the  manufacturers  of  automobile 
tires. 

The  village  of  Spruce  Pine  sprang  up  when  the  Carolina,  Clinchfield  & 
Ohio  R.  R.  (now  the  Clinchfield),  completed  about  1908,  built  a  station 
on  the  Toe  River.  When  large  operators  were  stripping  the  mountains  of 
white  oak,  chestnut,  and  poplar,  the  town  became  a  shipping  center.  Some 
of  the  timber,  unsuited  for  lumber,  has  since  been  utilized  for  chemical 
purposes.  "Wood  money,"  small  brass  coins  given  by  local  buyers  in  payment 
for  wood,  passes  for  full  value.  Ferns,  mountain  laurel,  hemlock  boughs, 
and  millions  of  galax  leaves  are  shipped  from  here  every  year.  The  galax  is 
an  evergreen  herb  with  glossy  round  or  heart-shaped  leaves  that  turn  to 
maroon,  copper,  or  purplish  shades  in  autumn. 

The  annual  Mayland  Fair  (Sept.)  exhibits  products  of  Mitchell,  Avery, 
and  Yancey  Counties. 

In  Spruce  Pine  is  the  marked  Camp  Site  of  the  Frontiersmen  (Sept.  28, 
1780),  on  the  third  night  of  their  march  from  Sycamore  Shoals  to  Kings 
Mountain. 

Spruce  Pine  is  at  the  junction  with  State  26  (see  tours  20A  and  20B). 


TOUR    2  0  43I 

At  37.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  graveled  State  104. 

Right  on  State  104  to  the  junction  with  a  graveled  side  road,  5.6  m. ;  L.  0.6  m.  on  this 
side  road  to  KONA  (corner).  Here  occurred  the  sensational  murder  of  Charlie  Silver, 
for  which  his  wife,  Frankie,  who  had  reported  his  disappearance,  was  hanged  in  Mor- 
ganton,  July  12,  1832.  After  the  body  had  been  found  beneath  the  floorboards  of  the 
Silver  cabin,  Frankie  was  taken  to  Morganton,  tried,  convicted,  and  sentenced  to  death. 
Relatives  helped  her  to  escape  in  a  load  of  hay,  but  she  was  shortly  recaptured.  In  the 
confession  which  followed  she  told  how,  crazed  with  jealousy,  she  waited  until  her 
husband  had  gone  to  sleep  before  she  attacked  him  with  an  ax,  dismembered  the  body, 
and  attempted  to  burn  portions  in  the  fireplace.  Upon  the  scaffold  Frankie  read  a  poem, 
which  is  extant,  referring  to  the  "jealous  thought  that  first  gave  strife  to  make  me  take 
my  husband's  life,"  and  admitting  that:  "With  flames  I  tried  him  to  consume,  but  time 
would  not  admit  it  done." 

At  8  m.  on  State  104  in  BANDANA  (237  pop.)  is  the  Site  of  the  Sink  Hole  Mine. 
Here  are  indications  that  Spaniards,  possibly  under  Juan  Pardo,  may  have  carried  on 
extensive  mining.  Local  legend  has  it  that  some  of  the  mica  taken  back  to  Spain  by  these 
men  is  still  in  existence.  Others  maintain  that  the  mines  were  operated  by  the  Indians. 
Here  in  1858  Thomas  Clingman  (see  asheville  and  tour  21E)  tried  unsuccessfully 
to  locate  silver.  He  found  flattened  stone  picks  and  other  evidences  of  Indian  operations. 
Others  have  found  arrowheads,  stone  clubs,  battle-axes,  and  soapstone  pots,  indicating 
Indian  camp  sites.  Mica  from  Sink  Hole   was  used  for  windowpanes  in  early  houses. 

At  MICAVILLE,  38  m.  (2,504  alt.,  118  pop.),  two  large  companies 
operate  several  mica  mines  and  purchase  feldspar  from  individual  miners.  At 
Micaville  is  the  junction  (L)  with  State  104  (see  tour  26c). 

BURNSVILLE,  43  m.  (2,817  alt.,  866  pop.),  seat  of  Yancey  County, 
is  named  for  Capt.  Otway  Burns,  privateer  in  the  War  of  1812  (see  tour  28). 
According  to  an  anecdote,  a  visitor  at  the  unveiling  of  the  bronze  statue  of 
Burns  in  the  town  square,  remarked,  "I  didn't  know  he  was  an  Indian!" 

The  Private  Museum  (open  during  office  hours)  of  Dr.  W.  B.  Robertson, 
exhibits  North  Carolina  minerals,  precious  stones,  and  early  Americana, 
including  lighting  devices.  A  patchwork  quilt  made  by  Mrs.  Robertson 
contains  the  names  of  the  350  Yancey  County  men  and  women  who  served 
in  the  World  War. 

Left  from  Burnsville  on  sand-clay  State  695  to  the  junction  with  the  Big  Tom  Wilson 
Motor  Rd.,  10.8  m.,  named  for  Thomas  D.  Wilson,  woodsman,  hunter,  and  trapper  who 
served  as  guide  to  Dr.  Elisha  Mitchell  in  1844.  His  knowledge  of  woodcraft  enabled  him 
in  1857  to  pick  up  Dr.  Mitchell's  trail  and  find  the  scientist's  body  (see  tour  30 A). 

Left  2.5  m.  on  the  Tom  Wilson  Rd.  to  ESKOTA  (5  pop.).  Here  is  the  tollgate  (open 
June-Sept.;  75$  a  person  to  Stepps  Gap,  25$  additional  to  summit;  $1.50  round  trip  if 
south  road  is  used  for  egress). 

At  2.8  m.  the  toll  road  crosses  Mitchell  Creek.  Left  up  the  south  bank  of  Mitchell 
Creek  0.3  m.  on  a  foot  trail  to  the  forks;  L.  at  the  forks  the  trail  fords  Sugarcamp  Creek 
just  above  its  confluence  with  Mitchell  Creek,  fords  Mitchell  Creek,  and  follows  its  north 
bank  to  another  forks,  1  m. ;  R.  here  the  trail  fords  the  creek  again  and  follows  the 
stream  to  MITCHELL  FALLS,  1.5  m.  In  the  circular  pool  at  the  foot  of  this  waterfall 
Big  Tom  Wilson  found  the  body  of  Dr.  Mitchell. 

The  motor  road  ascends,  crossing  and  recrossing  Cane  River,  which  it  closely  parallels. 
At  5  m.  are  the  BLUE  SEA  FALLS  (about  200  yds.  R.  of  the  road).  From  this  point 
the  road  begins  a  sharper  twisting  ascent  of  the  Black  Mountain  Range. 

At  STEPPS  GAP,  15  m.,  where  cars  may  be  parked  and  the  trip  continued  on  foot, 
there  is  a  choice  of  roads;  the  R.  fork  leads  1.5  m.  to  Camp  Alice,  and  connects  with 


432  TOURS 

the  one-way  south  toll  road  (see  tour  30A);  the  L.  fork  leads  2  m.  to  the  summit  of 
MOUNT  MITCHELL  (6,684  alt.),  highest  peak  in  eastern  America,  in  MOUNT 
MITCHELL  STATE  PARK  (see  tour  30 A). 

US  19E  passes  small,  scattered  settlements  along  Bald  Creek.  At  intervals 
women  hook  rugs  in  summer  in  open  sheds  that  line  the  road  and  exhibit 
their  bright  handiwork  on  clotheslines. 

At  49  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  19-23  {see  tour  21a). 


TOUR       2.    O    A 


Spruce  Pine — Penland — Bakersville — Sioux;  State  26.  30  m. 

Roadbed   paved  throughout. 
Accommodations  limited. 

This  route  along  a  mountain  shelf  through  farm  country  offers  outstanding 
views,  though  many  slopes  have  been  denuded  of  trees  by  lumbering  opera- 
tions. For  several  miles  west  of  Bakersville  the  high  bald  peak  of  Roan  Moun- 
tain dominates  the  landscape. 

State  26  branches  northwest  from  its  junction  with  US  19E  in  SPRUCE 
PINE,  0  m.  (see  tour  20). 

At  2  m.  (L)  is  the  Minpro  Grinding  Plant  (open),  its  shining  silver 
sides  flanked  by  piles  of  white  feldspar. 

At  3.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  graveled  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  PENLAND,  2  m.  (2,462  alt.,  125  pop.).  Here  is  the  APPA- 
LACHIAN MOUNTAIN  CENTER  {open),  a  wooded  225-acre  tract  on  Conley  Ridge. 
Founded  in  191 2  under  the  auspices  of  the  Episcopal  Church,  the  center  includes  a 
boarding  and  day  school  for  children  under  12  years  of  age,  operated  as  a  camp  in 
summer,  and  the  Penland  School  of  Handicrafts.  The  Edward  F.  Worst  Craft  House, 
a  rustic  structure  of  poplar  logs  on  a  stone  foundation,  was  named  for  the  authority  on 
hand  weaving,  who  in  1930  helped  found  the  Hand  Weavers  Institute,  which  holds 
two  sessions  here  annually   {Apr.  and  Aug.). 

BAKERSVILLE,  12  m.  (2,470  alt.,  426  pop.),  is  the  seat  of  Mitchell 
County,  which  was  formed  in  1861  by  Union  supporters  who  wished  to  sep- 
arate from  the  secessionists,  and  named  for  Dr.  Elisha  Mitchell  (see  tour 
30 A).  The  court  sat  in  the  shade  of  a  grove  of  trees  near  the  site  of  the  present 
courthouse  until  a  log  courthouse  was  built  here  in  1867.  The  early  1870's 
saw  the  beginning  of  the  mining  of  mica,  which  has  been  the  chief  industry 
here  ever  since. 

This  section  lies  in  the  rugged  area  that  early  settlers  were  willing  to  leave 
to  the  Cherokee  and  the  Catawba  as  long  as  there  was  plenty  of  low-country 
land.  When  that  had  been  taken  up,  settlers  began  to  overflow  into  the  hills. 
By  1763  the  Crown,  which  had  found  the  Indians  convenient  buffers  against 
Louisiana  during  the  war  with  France  and  Spain,  cemented  their  allegiance 
by  excluding  white  settlers.  After  the  Revolution  the  general  assembly 
opened  the  country  for  settlement  (1783). 

In  one  old  grant  a  man  wanting  to  oust  his  brother-in-law  who  was  a 
"squatter,"  entered  "40  acres  of  land  on  the  head  of  Rock  House  Creek" 
running  various  courses  so  as  to  include  the  "turnip  patch  cleared  by  Isaac 

433 


434  tours 

McFall."  He  then  conveyed  it  to  Elijah  Hall  for  "one  flintlock  gun,  1  spotted 
sow,  and  9  pigs." 

1.  Right  from  Bakersville  on  an  improved  road  {toll  $1  in  summer;  otherwise  free) 
that  parallels  Little  Rock  Creek  through  the  Roan  Valley  and  runs  between  the  slopes 
of  Big  Roan  (R)  and  Pumpkin  Patch  Mountain  (L).  The  Roan,  referred  to  locally 
almost  as  if  it  were  a  person,  is  a  mountain  of  pastures,  with  trees  growing  mostly  in  the 
deep  ravines,  though  there  is  a  narrow  belt  of  firs  at  the  top.  It  is  noted  for  the  variety 
and  abundance  of  its  wild  flowers.  From  Sunrise  Rock,  the  highest  point  on  the  SUMMIT 
OF  BIG  ROAN,  10  m.  (6,313  alt.),  one  of  the  highest  peaks  in  North  Carolina,  it  is 
claimed  that  six  States  are  visible  on  clear  days.  Rhododendron  gardens  here  reach 
the  peak  of  their  beauty  in  late  June  and  early  July. 

2.  Right  from  Bakersville  on  a  graveled  road  following  Cane  Creek  is  HAWK,  4.1  m. 
(500  pop.).  Here  is  Roby  Buchanan's  Mill  (open),  a  little  one-room  building  with  a 
water  wheel,  in  which  Roby  Buchanan  practices  his  self-taught  art  of  cutting  and  polishing 
native  gems,  using  equipment  he  has  made  himself.  He  turns  out  beautiful  specimens 
of  more  than  a  dozen  semiprecious  stones,  which  he  finds  or  purchases  locally. 

At  15  m.  is  a  cluster  of  houses  and  a  general  store,  known  as  LOAFERS 
GLORY.  Watching  the  neighborhood  men  gather  here  to  swap  knives  and 
spin  yarns,  an  industrious  woman  once  observed  tartly  that  this  must  be 
"loafer's  glory,"  and  the  name  stuck. 

At  26  m.  State  26  crosses  the  Toe  River.  SIOUX,  30  m.  (2,100  alt.,  21 
pop.),  is  at  the  junction  with  US  19W-23  (see  tour  21a). 


TOUR       2.    O    B 


Spruce  Pine — Little  Switzerland — Woodlawn;  State  26.  20  m. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 
Resort  inn  at  Little  Switzerland. 

This  route,  called  the  Etchoe  Pass  Rd.,  runs  through  a  mountain  region 
that  attracts  many  summer  visitors.  Farm  settlements  directly  below  the 
sheer  cliffs  are  a  patchwork  of  yards,  gardens,  and  fields. 

State  26  branches  south  from  US  19E  in  SPRUCE  PINE,  0  m.  {see  tour 
20). 

At  GILLESPIE  GAP,  6  m.  (2,802  alt.),  a  rock  pyramid  (L)  honors  the 
patriots  who  passed  Sept.  29,  1780,  on  their  way  to  Kings  Mountain  {see 
tour  31c),  also  Gen.  Francis  Marion  who,  with  30  picked  men,  was  sent 
to  dislodge  the  Cherokee  at  Etchoe  Pass.  As  Marion  and  his  men  entered 
the  pass,  they  were  ambushed  and  21  of  the  soldiers  were  killed.  The  Blue 
Ridge  Parkway  crosses  the  State  highway  in  this  gap. 

West  of  Gillespie  Gap  the  route  runs  along  the  crest  of  the  Blue  Ridge 
and  affords  spectacular  views. 

LITTLE  SWITZERLAND,  9  m.  (3,500  alt.,  163  pop.),  a  1,200-acre  tract 
running  along  both  sides  of  the  Blue  Ridge  crest,  was  founded  in  1910  as  a 
summer  colony.  At  the  northern  entrance  is  the  Big  Linn,  an  old  tree 
under  which  the  frontiersmen  on  the  way  to  Kings  Mountain  are  said  to 
have  held  council. 

Much  of  the  property  is  still  wooded.  A  rustic  inn  and  cottages,  as  well 
as  a  number  of  private  homes,  comprise  the  colony.  The  simplicity  of  this 
resort,  which  has  neither  golf  course  nor  electric  lights,  attracts  many  writers, 
artists,  and  other  visitors. 

From  a  little  knoll  directly  behind  the  inn,  Mount  Mitchell  is  visible 
on  a  clear  day.  It  is  said  that  when  it  is  plainly  outlined,  the  weather  will 
continue  fine.  Q,ilXi6 

1.  Right  from  the  entrance  to  Switzerland  Inn  on  a  plainly  marked  road  to  KiLMicifAELj 
Tower  {open  only  in  summer;  adm.  25$),  a  50-foot  lookout  on  a  knob  with  an  elevation 
of  4,000  feet.  Wooden  arrows  point  out  and  identify  the  encircling  peaks. 

2.  Right  from  Little  Switzerland  on  the  Bearwallow  Gap  Rd.  through  feldspar  mining 
country  to  the  McKinney  Mines  (open),  4  m. 

435 


436  TOURS 

At  12  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  unpaved  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  Wild  Acres,  2  m.,  a  summer  hotel  consisting  of  two  large 
buildings  at  the  top  of  the  mountain.  This  hotel  and  a  few  cottages  are  all  that  were 
completed  of  a  1926  real  estate  development. 

Between  Wild  Acres  and  Woodlawn,  the  road  winds  down  among  for- 
ested slopes  broken  here  and  there  by  cleared  spaces.  For  part  of  the  descent 
State  26  follows  Armstrong  Creek  (R)  as  it  flows  through  tangled  under- 
growth and  ferns,  over  rocks  and  moss-grown  logs. 

WOODLAWN,  20  m.  (1,394  ah->  5°  P°P-)>  is  at  tne  junction  with  US 
221  (see  tour  J 8). 


TOUR       XI 


(Erwin,  Tenn.) — Asheville — Sylva — Murphy — (Blairsville,  Ga.);  US  19W, 

19. 

Tennessee  Line — Georgia  Line,  185  m. 

Southern  Ry.  parallels  route  between  Asheville  and  Murphy. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  cities  and  towns;  tourist  camps,  guest  houses,  resort  inns  along  the  route. 


Section  a.  TENNESSEE  LINE  to  ASHEVILLE;  $6  m.  US  19W  and  19 

This  route  winds  through  a  region  of  towering  peaks  and  deep  valleys. 
Through  a  sparsely  settled  forest  area,  the  highway  runs  between  cliffs  of 
white  sandstone  streaked  with  bronze  on  one  side  and  a  rocky  creek  bed  half- 
hidden  by  rhododendron  and  laurel,  on  the  other. 

US  19W  crosses  the  Tennessee  Line  at  SPIVEY  CREEK  GAP,  0  m. 
(3,200  alt.),  15  miles  south  of  Erwin,  Tenn.  (see  tenn.  tour  /). 

At  Spivey  Creek  Gap  is  the  intersection  with  the  Appalachian  Trail. 

Right  on  the  Appalachian  Trail  (4-foot,  cleared)  to  BIG  BALD  MOUNTAIN, 
5.8  m.  (5,530  alt.),  that  affords  views  of  Mount  Mitchell  and  Celo  on  the  east;  Little 
Bald  and  Flattop  on  the  north,  and  Ogle  Meadows  on  the  south.  Big  Bald  is  sometimes 
called  Griers  Bald  for  David  Grier,  who  lived  a  hermit  here  from  1802  until  1834  after 
having  been  rejected  by  the  daughter  of  Col.  David  Vance.  He  became  involved  in 
disputes  when  settlers  came,  and  killed  a  man.  Although  Grier  was  acquitted  on  the 
grounds  of  insanity,  he  was  later  slain  by  one  of  his  victim's  friends,  not,  however,  until 
after  he  had  published  a  pamphlet  explaining  why  he  had  taken  the  law  into  his  own 
hands. 

South  of  Cane  River  Bridge,  7  m.,  the  road  follows  curves  of  Cane  River 
(stocked  with  bass,  trout,  and  perch)  through  a  valley  where  small  moun- 
tain farms  bordering  the  river  are  connected  with  the  highway  by  swinging 
footbridges. 

In  HIGGINS,  16.5  m.  (2,350  alt.,  65  pop.),  is  the  Markle  Handicraft 
School  (open),  part  of  a  community  development  project  supervised  by 
the  Presbyterian  Church,  U.S.A.  The  project  is  housed  in  three  buildings 
of  local  stone. 

At  22.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  19E  (see  tour  20)  and  US  19,  now  the 
route. 

437 


438  TOURS 

At  38.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  213. 

Right  on  State  213  at  MARS  HILL,  2  m.  (2,300  alt.,  455  pop.),  is  Mars  Hill  College, 
a  coeducational  Baptist  junior  college  with  an  enrollment  of  more  than  500  students.  On 
the  campus,  where  many  of  the  buildings  are  of  local  granite,  is  a  Monument  to  Old 
Joe.  When  the  first  college  building  was  completed  in  1856,  the  farmers  who  had  raised 
the  money  found  they  were  $1,100  short.  The  sheriff  seized  as  security  Old  Joe,  one  of 
their  slaves,  and  kept  him  in  jail  until  the  amount  had  been  paid. 

STOCKSVILLE,  42.4  m.  (2,250  alt.,  75  pop.),  is  at  the  junction  with 
paved  State  695. 

Left  on  State  695  is  Barnardsville,  6  m.  (2,185  alt->  500  P°P-)-  Right  1.5  m.  from 
Barnardsville  on  the  marked  Craggy  Gardens  Highway  to  Camp  Tom  Browne  (L),  a 
19-acre  summer  camp  for  the  Young  Tar  Heel  Farmers,  an  organization  of  boys  from 
high  school  agriculture  classes.  At  4  m.  on  the  Craggy  Highway  is  Dillingham  (275 
pop.),  at  the  entrance  gate  of  the  Mount  Mitchell  Division  of  Pisgah  National  Forest 
{picnic  and  camp  sites,  springs,  and  shelters  at  intervals). 

Left  2.5  m.  from  Dillingham  on  a  Forest  Service  road  to  BIG  IVY  CAMPGROUND 

{water,  fuel,  fireplaces,  sanitary  facilities,  swimming  pool). 

At  11  m.  on  the  Craggy  Highway  {steep  grade)  is  the  Bear  Pen  Parking  Ground. 

Left  0.8  m.  from  the  parking  ground  on  an  easy  trail  up  a  wooded  slope  to  CRAGGY 
FLATS,  anteroom  of  the  natural  CRAGGY  GARDENS  {blooming  season  in  June).  This 
largest  known  stand  of  purple  rhododendron,  in  places  more  than  a  mile  wide, 
extends  10  miles  along  the  crest  of  the  Great  Craggy  Mountains  at  altitudes  above  5,000 
feet.  Some  of  the  rhododendron  are  12  feet  high.  The  shrubs  are  so  dense  that  their 
blooms  form  a  solid  blanket  of  rich  rose  and  purple. 

Left  from  Craggy  Flats  2.5  m.  on  a  well-marked  trail  to  CRAGGY  PINNACLE 
(5,944  alt.);  on  the  same  trail  2.5  m.  across  the  saddle  to  the  top  of  CRAGGY  DOME 
(Big  Craggy  Mountain),  highest  peak  in  the  gardens  (6,105  alt.).  From  this  point  the 
mountains  within  a  radius  of  100  miles  are  visible  on  clear  days. 

At  16  m.  on  State  695  is  CANE  RIVER  GAP,  where  the  road  descends  abrupdy.  At 
21.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  Big  Tom  Wilson  Rd.  {see  tour  20). 

Between  Stocksville  and  Asheville  US  19  follows  the  general  route  of  the 
old  Catawba  Trail,  major  tradeway  between  the  Indians  in  the  Carolinas 
and  the  tribes  of  the  Ohio  Valley. 

Near  WEAVERVILLE  (fishing,  swimming) ,  47  m.  (2,300  alt.,  848  pop.), 
are  sulphur,  iron,  sodium,  and  lithia  springs.  William  Sydney  Porter 
(O.  Henry)  lived  here  for  a  time. 

At  49  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  paved  Reems  Creek  Rd. 

Left  on  the  Reems  Creek  Rd.  to  the  Birthplace  of  Zebulon  B.  Vance  {p-ivate), 
5.5  m.  (R),  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1862-65,  1877-81),  and  U.S.  Senator  {see 
asheville).  This  house,  built  by  Col.  David  Vance  about  1786,  originally  was  a  two- 
story  log  building.  About  1893  the  structure  was  reduced  to  one  story  and  sheathed  with 
clapboards.  In  the  Vance  (Hemphill)  Cemetery,  across  the  highway,  on  a  knoll, 
300  yds.,  is  the  Grave  of  David  Vance  I  (1745-1813),  Revolutionary  officer  and  a 
member  of  the  commission  that  ran  the  line  between  Tennessee  and  North  Carolina  in 
1799.  Vance  liberated  his  slaves  by  terms  of  his  will.  He  selected  the  cemetery  site 
because:  "A  little  knoll  surrounded  by  mountains  should  be  a  beautiful  place  to  start 
from  on  the  Resurrection  Day." 

Here  also  is  the  Grave  of  David  Vance  II  (1792- 1844),  a  volunteer  in  the  War  of 
1 81 2,  and  the  unmarked  Grave  of  Dr.  Robert  Brank  Vance,  son  of  David  Vance  I, 


tour  21  439 

killed    (1827)    in   a   pistol    duel  with    Samuel   P.    Carson,    his   political    opponent    {see 
tour  22b). 

At  50  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  70-25  {see  tour  22a),  which  unites 
with  US  19  between  this  point  and  Asheville. 

US  19  enters  Lake  View  Park,  52  m.,  a  residential  section  bordering  (R) 
the  green  shores  of  BEAVER  LAKE  {boating,  swimming). 

ASHEVILLE,  56  m.  (2,216  alt.,  50,193  pop.)  {see  asheville). 

Points  of  Interest:  Biltmore  House,  Civic  Center,  Sondley  Library,  Grove  Park  Inn, 
Sunset  Mountain,  and  others. 

Asheville  is  at  the  junction  with  US  70  {see  tour  30),  US  25  {see  tour 
22),  and  US  74  {see  tour  J/c). 

Section  b.  ASHEVILLE  to  GEORGIA  LINE;  729  m.  US  19 

This  all-mountain  route  gives  access  to  the  Pisgah  and  Nantahala  National 
Forests,  to  the  Great  Smoky  Mountains  National  Park,  and  runs  through 
the  Nantahala  Gorge. 

US  19  crosses  the  French  Broad  River,  1.4  m. 

At  3.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  paved,  narrow,  and  winding  State  191, 
called  the  Brevard  Rd. 

Left  on  State  191  to  the  APPALACHIAN  FOREST  EXPERIMENT  STATION  at 
Bent  Creek,  6  m.  (R),  one  of  the  first  experimental  forests  established  by  the  U.  S. 
Forest  Service. 

At  6.1  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  sand-clay  Bent  Creek  Rd. 

Right  0.1  m.  on  the  Bent  Creek  Rd.  is  the  entrance  to  Pisgah  Division  of  Pisgah 
National  Forest  {see  national  forests).  At  3  m.  on  the  Bent  Creek  Rd.  is  the 
Bent  Creek  Campground  {open  all  year;  water,  fuel,  fireplaces,  sanitary  equipment,  and 
shelter).  From  this  point  the  Bent  Creek  Rd.  is  usually  open  in  summer.  At  BENT 
CREEK  GAP,  7  m.,  is  the  junction  with  the  Shut-In  Trail;  R.  on  this  trail  to  the  top 
of  PISGAH  MOUNTAIN.  At  13  m.  on  the  Bent  Creek  Rd.  is  the  North  Mills  River 
Campground  maintained  by  the  U.  S.  Forest  Service  {accommodations  for  trailers  and 
tents,  water,  fuel,  sanitary  conveniences,  swimming  pool).  Left  from  this  campground, 
on  the  North  Mills  River  Rd.,  is  the  junction  with  State  191   at  18  m. 

At  7.5  m.  on  State  191,  are  the  low  stone  and  brick  buildings  of  Pisgah  Forest 
Pottery  (L),  featuring  ware  with  unusual  glazes.  All  shaping,  turning,  decorating,  and 
glazing  is  done  by  hand;  even  the  cameo-decorated  ware  is  painted  free-hand  with 
porcelain  paste. 

At  14  m.  is  the  junction  (R)  with  the  North  Mills  River  Rd. 

On  US  19  at  4  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  paved  and  marked  Johnston 
Blvd.  (Johnston  School  Rd.). 

Right  on  this  road  {graveled  from  the  railroad  crossing)  to  the  summit  of  SPIVEY 
MOUNTAIN  (3,331  alt.),  3  m.  The  view  from  the  fire  tower  includes  the  French 
Broad  Valley  and  the  city  of  Asheville. 

At  5  m.  (L)  is  the  entrance  to  Asheville  School,  a  private  boys'  prepara- 
tory school,  occupying  buildings  of  brick,  stone,  and  stucco  construction.  It 


440  TOURS 

was  founded  in  1900,  and  offers   a  six-year  course.  Many  of  its  165  students 
come  from  distant  States. 

The  American  Enka  Corporation  Plant  {open  only  by  formal  invita- 
tion) is  at  8  m.  (L)  across  a  bridge  over  the  railroad  tracks.  This,  one  of 
the  largest  factories  in  the  South,  is  a  subsidiary  of  the  Enka  Corporation  of 
Arnhem,  Netherlands.  It  manufactures  rayon  thread  from  spruce  pulp. 
About  2,700  people  are  continuously  employed  in  the  modern  brick  plant, 
which  commenced  operation  in  1929. 

The  company-owned  Enka  Village  (2,050  alt.,  800  pop.),  for  officials 
and  employees,  has  its  own  stores,  fire  department,  hospital,  church, 
country  club,  and  a  Dutch  school.  Enka  Lake  provides  water  needed  in 
the  manufacturing  process  and  is  also  used  for  recreation. 

At  9.9  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  Candler  Rd.  {see  tour  21  A). 

LUTHERS  (2,175  a^-)  is  at  13  m.  (L).  The  group  of  weathered  build- 
ings here  are  the  Omar  Khayyam  Art  Pottery,  noted  for  unusual  designs. 

At  14.6  m.  is  the  entrance  lane  (L)  winding  down  the  hill  to  the  old 
Turnpike  Hotel  (2,269  alt-)>  once  the  noonday  stagecoach  stop  between 
Asheville  and  Waynesville.  The  original  frame  structure  was  built  in  1866; 
the  larger  building,  also  frame,  was  added  in  1880. 

In  CANTON,  19  m.  (2,609  a^->  5>IJ7  P°P-)>  is  (R)  tne  Champion 
Paper  and  Fibre  Co.  Plant  {open  by  permission),  one  of  the  world's 
largest  pulp,  paper,  and  extract  mills.  The  company  employs  1,500  persons, 
owns  140,000  acres  of  forest  land,  and  obtains  additional  timber  from 
5,000,000  acres  of  independently  owned  forests.  It  maintains  a  continuous 
program  of  reforestation  to  insure  against  shortage  of  raw  material. 

West  of  Canton  the  highway  parallels  the  Pigeon  River,  whose  blackened 
waters  are  flecked  with  white  foam,  effluent  from  the  mill. 

CLYDE,  23  m.  (2,539  alt.,  458  pop.),  ships  beef  cattle. 

At  23.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  Smathers  House  {private),  0.3  m.,  oldest  in  Haywood 
County,  a  three-story  frame  building  erected  in  1795  by  Jacob  Shook,  a  Pennsylvania 
farmer  who  was  granted  the  site  for  his  Revolutionary  services.  Shook  entertained  Bishop 
Francis  Asbury  {see  tour  22a  and  religion)  here  about  1810  and  the  first  Methodist 
church  in  Haywood  County  was  organized  here.  The  third  floor  was  equipped  as  a 
chapel. 

LAKE  JUNALUSKA  METHODIST  ASSEMBLY,  27  m.  (2,583  alt.). 

Season:  June  1 — Sept.  1. 

Admission:  Ground  fee  at  the  gates  ranging   from   50^  a  day  to  $7.50   for   the  season. 
Accommodations:    12    hotels   and    boarding    houses;    furnished    cottages   for   rent   during 
the  season. 

This  1,250-acre  site,  with  its  250-acre  lake,  is  the  summer  recreational  and 
educational  center  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  South.  The  name 


TOUR    2  1  441 

honors  Chief  Junaluska  (see  tour  21E).  The  grounds  contain  over  20  miles 
of  graded  roads,  more  than  200  summer  homes,  and  20  public  buildings, 
including  a  large  open-air  auditorium  with  a  seating  capacity  of  4,000.  A 
summer  session  of  Duke  University  held  here  includes  courses  in  music, 
literature,  religion,  and  art.  Water  pageants,  motorboat  races,  and  carnivals 
are  annual  events. 

Right  from  Lake  Junaluska  on  partly  paved  State  209  to  the  junction  with  improved 
State  289,  13  m. ;  L.  0.7  m.  on  State  289  to  the  junction  with  improved  State  292;  R. 
7  m.  on  State  292  through  the  Fines  Creek  section,  noted  for  cattle  raising  and  fishing 
streams,  to  the  junction  with  the  Max  Patch  toll  road  (automobiles  50$,  pedestrians  25$); 
R.  0.5  m.  on  the  toll  road  to  MAX  PATCH  (4,660  alt.),  a  mile-long  bald  (inn, 
swimming  pool).  Here  is  unfolded  a  panorama  of  the  Great  Smokies  and  the  Balsam 
Mountains  with  the  deep  gorge  of  the  Pigeon  River  in  the  foreground. 

A  Cherokee  legend  connects  this  region  with  an  immortal  race  that  inhabited  forests 
above  the  clouds.  Once  a  wandering  Indian  maiden  fell  asleep  and  dreamed  of  a  celestial 
lover  who  later  appeared  and  carried  her  away.  The  tribe,  believing  her  stolen  by  a 
neighboring  tribe,  set  out  to  conquer  them.  Grieved  by  the  bloodshed,  the  celestials 
permitted  the  maiden  to  summon  her  people  to  a  council.  When  her  brother  raised  his 
tomahawk  to  slay  her  husband,  the  brother  was  killed  by  a  thunderbolt.  The  girl 
prepared  to  return  to  her  people  but  her  husband,  to  reconcile  her,  promised  that  all 
brave  warriors   and  faithful   wives  should    live   eternally   in  the   cloudlands   after  death. 

WAYNESVILLE,  31  m.  (2,644  a^->  2'4X4  P°P-)>  named  for  "Mad 
Anthony"  Wayne,  the  Revolutionary  general,  is  the  seat  of  Haywood  County, 
and  a  vacation  and  health  resort.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  the  5,000-  to 
6,000-foot  peaks  of  the  Balsam  and  Smoky  Mountains.  Col.  Robert  Love 
gave  the  land  for  the  public  square,  courthouse,  jail,  cemetery,  and  several 
churches.  The  region  was  settled  by  officers  and  soldiers  who  had  received 
land  grants  in  the  years  following  the  Revolution.  The  county  was  named 
for  John  Haywood,  State  treasurer  (1787-1827)  (see  raleigh). 

The  Haywood  County  Courthouse  (R)  is  a  modern  stone  building 
erected  in  1932.  On  the  grounds  is  a  granite  boulder  with  a  plaque 
memorializing  the  10  Revolutionary  soldiers  buried  in  the  county. 

On  the  property  of  the  old  Sulphur  Springs  Hotel  (1886)  is  a  marker 
claiming  that  this  is  the  site  where  the  last  shot  on  land  in  the  War  between 
the  States  was  fired  May  10,  1865,  by  Robert  P.  Conley,  though  histories 
mention  May  13  as  the  date  and  Brownsville,  Tex.,  as  the  locale. 

Waynesville  is  at  the  junction  with  partly  paved  State  284  (see  tours 
21B  and  21C). 

Left  from  Waynesville  on  State  284,  called  Pigeon  Loop  Rd.,  through  rolling  country 
where  apple  orchards  border  the  road.  From  DAVIS  (PIGEON)  GAP,  4  m.,  is  a  view 
of  Mount  Pisgah,   about   15    miles    southeast. 

At  WOODROW,  7  m.  (60  pop.),  the  East  and  West  Forks  of  the  Pigeon  River 
converge. 

At  WAGON  ROAD  GAP,  24  m.,  State  284  unites  with  the  Pisgah  Motor  Rd.  (see 

TOUR    21  A). 

Southwest  of  Waynesville  US  19  makes  a  long  upward  climb. 

The  MORRISON  STATE  FISH  HATCHERY  (open),  37.2  m.  (R), 
propagates  trout.  A  small  zoo  contains  bear,  deer,  gophers,  and  monkeys. 


442  TOURS 

At  BALSAM  GAP,  37.9  m.  (3,315  alt.,  308  pop.),  the  Southern  Ry.'s 
station  is  the  highest  point  of  any  standard-gage  railway  east  of  the  Mississippi 
River.  Trains  going  up  the  grade  are  often  assisted  by  "pusher"  locomotives. 

Between  Balsam  Gap  and  the  Georgia  Line  US  19  runs  within  the 
boundaries  of  the  NANTAHALA  NATIONAL  FOREST  (see  national 
forests)  which  contains  much  privately  owned  land. 

Southwest  of  Balsam  Gap  and  its  surrounding  cabbage-growing  country, 
the  highway  parallels  the  Tuckasegee  River.  At  one  place  the  railway  tracks 
tunnel  through  the  mountain  under  the  road  and  at  another  the  road  dips 
down  under  a  railway  trestle.  On  the  right  is  the  Plott  Balsam  Range. 

SYLVA,  48.6  m.  (2,047  a^t-»  I>34°  P°P-)>  became  the  seat  of  Jackson 
County  in  1913.  The  town  is  named  for  William  Sylva,  a  native  of  Denmark 
and  an  early  settler;  the  county,  for  Gen.  Andrew  Jackson.  Sylva  is  sur- 
rounded by  seven  peaks  more  than  6,000  feet  high.  On  a  hill  in  the  eastern 
part  of  town  are  the  homes  of  workers  in  the  big  paperboard  plant  and 
tannery,  Sylva's  oldest  industry.  Overlooking  the  business  section  on  an 
elevation  at  the  head  of  the  street  is  the  red  brick  Jackson  County  Court- 
house. 

Sylva  is  at  the  junction  with  State  106  (see  tour  21 D). 

DILLSBORO,  50.9  m.  (1,985  alt.,  284  pop.),  headquarters  of  talc-  and 
mica-mining  interests,  is  at  the  junction  with  US  23  (see  tour  23). 

At  the  end  of  a  little  valley  just  past  WILMOT,  59.5  m.  (1,865  *^>  25° 
pop.),  is  the  only  view  of  the  Smokies  from  this  route  east  of  Bryson  City. 
Clingmans  Dome  (R)  is  barely  distinguishable  from  the  other  peaks. 

At  60.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  107E  (see  tour  21E). 

Near  the  site  of  WHITTIER  (L),  61.5  m.  (1,839  alt->  287  P°P-)>  on  the 
Tuckasegee  River  was  the  settlement,  Stihoyi  or  Stecoee.  It  was  the  first  of  the 
^6  Indian  towns  destroyed  by  Gen.  Griffith  Rutherford  and  his  punitive  force 
in  1776  (see  tour  26c).  Although  the  Cherokee  had  abandoned  their  town 
and  fled,  the  soldiers  burned  the  houses  and  cut  the  standing  corn. 

Stihoyi  is  better  known  as  the  Thomas  farm  since  it  was  the  site  chosen 
for  his  home  by  Col.  W.  H.  Thomas,  white  chief  and  friend  of  the  Eastern 
Band  of  the  Cherokee,  to  whom  they  owe  their  existence  as  a  tribal  unit 
(see  tour  21 E). 

The  highway  bridge  crosses  the  Oconaluftee  River,  64  m.,  near  its  con- 
fluence with  the  Tuckasegee.  Near  this  point  the  Indian  Tsali  (Old  Charley), 
his  brother,  and  sons  were  slain  by  a  firing  squad  of  Gen.  Winfield  Scott's 
soldiers  during  the  removal  in  1838.  Tsali,  his  wife,  and  kinsman  had  been 
seized  by  the  soldiers,  but  Tsali's  feeble  wife  was  unable  to  travel  fast.  A 
soldier  prodded  her  with  his  bayonet  to  hasten  her  steps.  Exasperated  beyond 
endurance,  Tsali  urged  his  kinsmen  to  strike  down  the  soldiers  and  escape; 
one  soldier  was  killed  and  the  others  fled.  Meanwhile  hundreds  of  Indians 


tour  21  443 

were  escaping  from  the  stockades  and  from  the  westward  march.  The  task  of 
capturing  the  fugitives  had  become  so  difficult  that  General  Scott  decided  to 
use  the  Tsali  incident  as  an  opportunity  for  a  compromise.  Colonel  Thomas 
persuaded  Tsali,  his  brother,  and  three  sons  to  surrender  on  condition  that 
the  other  fugitives  be  permitted  to  remain.  The  youngest  son,  Wasituna 
(Washington),  was  spared,  because  of  his  youth. 

ELA,  64.5  m.  (1,795  alt.,  65  pop.),  is  at  the  junction  with  State  107  (see 
tour  21E). 

BRYSON  CITY,  69.5  m.  (1,736  alt.,  1,806  pop.),  is  the  seat  of  Swain 
County,  named  for  David  L.  Swain  (see  asheville),  Governor  of  North 
Carolina  (1832-35).  The  town  is  in  a  bowl-like  depression  formed  by  the 
Tuckasegee  River  at  the  foot  of  Rich  Mountain. 

The  surrounding  country  was  once  inhabited  by  the  Cherokee;  Bryson 
City  occupies  the  site  of  Yonah  Calaghi,  home  of  Chief  Eonee  (Big  Bear), 
whose  grave  is  at  the  Bear  Spring  in  the  town.  Nearby  is  the  Cherokee 
Reservation  (see  tour  21E),  where  resides  the  North  Carolina  remnant  of 
this  once-powerful  tribe. 

Bryson  City  has  a  woodworking  plant,  is  headquarters  of  copper  and 
feldspar  operations  and  is  a  shipping  point  for  purebred  stock.  On  the  lawn 
of  the  aluminum-painted  Swain  County  Courthouse  is  a  marker  to  Tsali. 

In  the  town  cemetery  is  the  Grave  of  Horace  Kephart  (1862-1931),  who 
was  instrumental  in  establishing  the  Great  Smoky  Mountains  National  Park; 
he  wrote  Our  Southern  Highlanders  and  other  books.  His  grave  is  marked 
by  a  10-ton  granite  boulder  from  the  park.  From  a  groove  in  the  top  of  the 
boulder  can  be  sighted  Mt.  Kephart,  lofty  peak  in  the  Smokies  named  in  the 
explorer's  honor. 

Right  from  Bryson  City  on  State  288,  a  dirt  road,  across  the  Tuckasegee  River 
bridge  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road  at  the  mouth  of  Noland  Creek,  6  m. ;  R.  0.3  m. 
on  this  dirt  road  to  the  4,000-acre  estate  of  Philip  G.  Rust  of  Wilmington,  Del.,  where 
an  extensive  reforestation  project  was  begun  in  1937. 

At  16  m.  on  State  288  is  BUSHNELL  (1,480  alt.,  75  pop.),  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Little  Tennessee  and  the  Tuckasegee  Rivers.  In  this  region  the  cabins  cling  to  the 
mountainsides  or  perch  across  the  river,  connected  with  the  road  by  swinging  bridges. 
Most  of  these  people  are  entirely  Nordic.  There  are  few  Negroes  and  almost  no  tenant 
farmers.  Kephart  says  this  country  was  settled  "neither  by  Cavaliers  nor  by  poor  whites, 
but  by  a  radically  distinct .  .  .  people  who  are  appropriately  called  the  Roundheads  of  the 
South.  . . .  The  first  characteristic  that  these  pioneers  developed  was  an  intense  indi- 
vidualism .  .  .  the  strong  and  even  violent  independence  that  made  them  forsake  all  the 
comforts  of  civilization  and  prefer  the  wild  freedom  of  the  border.  ..."  Their  descendants 
have  preserved  to  a  marked  degree  the  individualism,  independence,  and  originality  of 
character  of  their  ancestors. 

Although  in  the  popular  concept  every  mountaineer  uses  hillbilly  dialect  and  handles 
both  bullets  and  ballads  with  an  Elizabethan  abandon  and  a  free  frontier  fervor,  valley- 
dwelling  mountaineers  are  not  so  different  from  lowlanders  as  they  are  from  the  isolated 
inhabitants  of  the  coves  far  back  in  the  mountains.  Pungent,  graphic,  and  expressive, 
the  deep-cove  type  coins  his  own  word  if  he  can  think  of  none  at  the  moment  that  suits 
his  need.  Though  the  Scotch-Irish  influence  is  noticeable  chiefly  in  the  sounding  of  the 
letter  r,  the  English  is  really  predominant.  He  speaks  often  in  Elizabethan,  Chaucerian, 
or  pre-Chaucerian   idiom;   his  pronoun   hit   antedates   English  itself,   while  Ey  God,  a 


444  tours 

favorite  expletive,  is  the  original  of  egad  and  precedes  Chaucer.  The  highlander  uses 
many  expressions  in  common  with  the  Canterbury  Tales:  heap  o'  ]ol\s,  afore,  peart; 
some  of  his  ballets  are  old  English  folk  songs. 

At  47  m.  is  LAKE  CHEOAH   (L)    {fishing,  boating). 

At  DEALS  GAP,  50  m.  (1,979  ah.),  is  the  junction  with  US  129  {see  tour  21E). 

Southwest  of  Bryson  City  US  19  passes  through  a  valley  with  the 
Tuckasegee  River  (R)  spanned  occasionally  by  swinging  footbridges.  The 
climb  up  the  ALARKA  MOUNTAINS  begins  gradually  in  a  series  of  long 
curves  with  steep  peaks  rising  close  by.  Outstanding  on  the  northern  horizon, 
though  usually  cloud-capped,  are  the  mighty  bulks  of  Clingmans  Dome,  iden- 
tified by  the  natural  meadow  on  its  southern  flank,  and  Andrews  Bald,  show- 
ing bare  against  the  dense  green  of  spruce,  balsam,  and  rhododendron. 

The  NANTAHALA  GORGE,  82.8  m.,  is  a  high  light  in  a  route  pre- 
senting a  succession  of  extraordinary  views.  This  canyon  of  the  Nantahala 
River  is  so  deep  and  its  sides  so  sheer  that  the  Indians  named  it  Land  of 
the  Middle  Sun,  believing  that  only  the  noonday  sun  could  penetrate  its 
depths. 

One  of  the  several  Cherokee  legends  told  of  this  gloomy  and  forbidding 
place  is  that  the  gorge  was  the  haunt  of  the  Uktena  {\een-eyed),  a  huge 
horned  serpent.  The  bright  gem  blazing  from  between  his  horns  was  called 
ulstitlu  (it  is  on  his  head),  and  meant  death  to  the  family  of  any  Indian 
who  beheld  it.  However,  when  detached  it  became  the  ulunsuti  {transparent) , 
the  great  talisman  that  revealed  the  future  to  its  possessor.  When  a  wary 
hunter  encased  himself  in  leather,  surprised  the  monster,  killed  him,  and 
tore  the  great  jewel  from  his  head,  the  snake  writhed  from  one  side  of  the 
gorge  to  the  other,  shutting  out  the  radiance  of  the  sun  and  causing  the 
perpetual  twilight.  The  great  jewel  was  said  to  be  the  rutile  quartz,  so  rare 
that  there  was  only  one  specimen  among  the  eastern  Cherokee  in  1890. 

In  the  gorge  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  are  caves  claimed  by  some  to  have 
been  occupied  by  a  race  that  preceded  the  Cherokee.  High  up  above  the 
caves  on  a  narrow  shelf  carved  out  of  the  rock  is  the  road  to  Point  Lookout 
{see  tour  21E). 

At  WESSER,  83  m.  (1,714  alt.,  18  pop.),  between  the  highway  and  the 
Nantahala  River  (R),  is  the  Gorge  Dell  Camp  Picnic  Ground  {water,  fire- 
places, sanitary  conveniences). 

As  the  highway  winds  through  and  up  the  gorge  the  river  disappears  from 
sight  and  only  the  tops  of  tall  trees  are  visible.  Here  and  there  a  waterfall 
cascades  from  a  high  peak. 

NANTAHALA  (1,942  alt.,  49  pop.),  89.4  m.,  is  at  the  junction  with  the 
Winding  Stair  Scenic  Rd.  {see  tour  26c). 

At  TOPTON,  93.1  m.  (2,599  ^-i  25°  P°P-)>  tne  highway  leaves  the 
gorge  through  RED  MARBLE  GAP  and  enters  farming  country,  the  basin 
of  the  Valley  River  bordered  on  the  right  by  the  Snowbird  Mountains,  and 
on  the  left  by  the  Valley  River  Mountains  of  the  Nantahala  Range.  Topton 
is  at  the  junction  with  US  129  {see  tour  21E). 


RACCOON  OX  THE  HUNT 


BRUIN   AS   TREE  CLIMBER 


* 


MAMA  OPOSSUM  WITH  BROOD 


I'     f   '• 


Jtk*^ 


>     .  X 


«t*a&  :^:gt- 


SHORTIA   GALACIFOLIA,   FOUND  ONLY    IN   THIS   STATE 


RHODODENDRON    BLOSSOMS  .      ! 


f  II 


MOTH   BOAT  RACE,   EDENTON 


i 


SKIING  AT  BANNER  ELK 


FAMOUS  NO.  2  COURSE,   PINEHURST 


FOX  HUNT,  SOUTHERN  PINES 


TYPICAL  ROAD  AT  PINEHURST 


.:,:■; '   - :  r  ..-\-.;v 


m 


QUAIL   HUNTING,   PINEHURST 


TROUT   FISHING,   UPPER   DAVIDSON   RIVER 


tjr5 


:*:'/: 


"*--•«:•  '  --y ' 


^*,J  /  * 


,"*&■; 


/ 


CAMPING   DEER   HUNTERS 


tour  21  445 

ANDREWS,  101.4  m.  (1,775  a^'>  i>748  pop.),  has  a  tannery  and  extract 
plants,  as  well  as  lumber  mills. 

A  legend  tells  of  a  silver  mine  from  which  the  Indians  obtained  the 
"shiny  metal"  for  their  trinkets.  At  the  mouth  of  Factory  Creek,  near 
Andrews,  is  a  large  shelving  rock  over  the  entrance  to  a  cave,  now  closed 
by  slides.  Here  lived  an  old  Indian,  Sontechee,  who  kept  all  white  settlers 
away  from  the  place.  It  was  believed  he  knew  where  the  mine  was  but  he 
died  without  revealing  the  secret. 

West  of  Andrews  the  road  winds  through  the  broader,  level  stretch  of  the 
KONNAHEETA  VALLEY,  old  flood  plains  of  the  river  that  here  spread  to 
a  width  of  about  2  miles. 

On  the  L.  at  105.8  m.  is  the  Valley  River  Dahlia  Farm  {open  under 
supervision  of  caretaker),  one  of  the  largest  dahlia  gardens  in  North  Carolina. 

The  Plant  and  Quarries  {open),  106  m.  (R),  of  the  Columbia  Marble 
Co.  produce  a  high-grade  marble  (Regal  Blue);  its  predominant  white 
shades  to  grayish  and  mottled  blue  with  occasional  streaks  of  pink. 

In  MARBLE,  107.5  m.  (1,686  alt.,  304  pop.),  is  the  Museum  of  Arthur 
Palmer  (open),  housed  in  a  tar-paper  shack  (L).  The  collection  includes 
furniture,  farm  implements,  muskets,  and  cooking  utensils  used  by  the  early 
settlers.  There  are  also  Cherokee  relics  taken  from  mounds  and  samples 
of  minerals  found  in  the  section. 

At  TOMOTLA,  (L),  110.5  m.  (1,600  alt.,  16  pop.),  mining  operations 
uncovered  remains  of  an  old  shaft  and  tools  believed  to  have  been  used  by 
De  Soto  and  his  Spaniards  (see  tour  26c)  when  they  made  their  trek  across 
the  region  in  search  of  gold  (1540).  One  of  the  old  picks,  a  cannon  barrel, 
and  coin  molds  found  in  the  tunnel  are  in  the  Palmer  collection. 

MURPHY,  122  m.  (1,535  a^->  x>6i2  pop.),  at  the  confluence  of  the 
beautiful  Hiwassee  and  Valley  Rivers,  is  the  seat  of  Cherokee  County  and 
one  of  the  oldest  settlements  in  the  extreme  western  section  of  the  State. 
Streets  of  generous  width  center  on  the  square,  which  displays  a  Confederate 
monument  flanked  by  cannon.  The  Cherokee  County  Courthouse  (1926), 
built  of  local  blue  marble,  is  a  two-story  structure  of  neoclassic  design,  with  a 
coiner  entrance  in  the  form  of  a  pedimented  Corinthian  portico.  A  large 
octagonal  cupola  with  a  clock  and  crowning  lantern  surmounts  the  building. 

When  first  established,  about  1830,  as  an  Indian  trading  post,  the  settle- 
ment was  known  as  Huntersville  for  its  founder,  Col.  A.  R.  S.  Hunter  from 
Virginia.  In  1838,  when  Fort  Butler  was  set  up  for  the  Cherokee  removal 
(see  Indians),  Colonel  Hunter  entertained  Gen.  Winfield  Scott  at  his  home. 
The  town  was  renamed  in  honor  of  Archibald  D.  Murphey,  statesman  and 
champion  of  popular  education.  The  difference  in  spelling  is  the  result  of 
a  typographical  error. 

Murphy  is  at  the  junction  with  US  64  (see  tour  26c). 

US  19  crosses  the  Georgia  Line  at  129  m.,  11  miles  north  of  Blairsville, 
Ga.  (see  ga.  tour  6). 


TOUR       2_    I    A 


Junction  with  US  19 — Mt.  Pisgah — Pink  Beds — Junction  with  US  64; 
Candler  Rd.,  Pisgah  Motor  Rd.,  State  284.  38  m. 

Roadbed  paved  to  Stony  Fork,  remainder  graveled  {open  all  year). 
Rustic  inn  {open  Apr.-Nov.);  campground  and  picnic  accommodations. 

This  mountain  route  enters  the  Pisgah  National  Forest,  noted  for  its 
abundant  wildlife  and  flowering  shrubs,  and  passes  Mt.  Pisgah,  a  fawn- 
rearing  Dlant,  and  shimmering  Looking  Glass  Falls. 

The  paved  Candler  Rd.  branches  south  from  its  junction  with  US  19, 

0  m.  {see  tour  21b),  at  a  point  9.9  miles  west  of  Asheville.  CANDLER, 

1  m.  (2,108  alt.,  50  pop.),  on  Hominy  Creek,  said  to  have  been  named  by 
a  group  of  hunters  who  cooked  hominy  upon  its  banks,  is  at  the  junction 
with  the  Pisgah  Motor  Rd.,  now  the  route. 

At  4  m.  Pisgah  and  the  Rat,  twin  eminences,  loom  above  the  range  straight 
ahead.  From  a  distance  the  Rat  resembles  a  rodent  with  tail  extended  and 
head  lowered  between  its  front  paws.  When  snow  covers  the  northern  slope 
of  Pisgah,  figures  of  a  Bride  and  Groom  stand  out  in  heroic  stature  on  the 
mountainside. 

STONY  FORK,  8  m.  (2,368  alt.),  has  a  colony  of  summer  cabins,  a  few 
permanent  homes,  and  a  sprinkling  of  refreshment  stands. 

At  9  m.  is  the  ENTRANCE  TO  THE  PISGAH  DIVISION  OF  THE 
PISGAH  NATIONAL  FOREST  {see  national  forests)  and  (L)  the 
Stony  Fork  Campground  {water,  firewood,  sanitary  conveniences).  South 
of  this  point  the  Pisgah  Motor  Rd.  makes  a  steep  ascent  of  7  miles. 

In  spring  the  blooms  of  the  serviceberry  and  the  dogwood  trees  throw  a 
veil  of  white  over  the  new  green  of  the  forest.  In  May  the  woods  are  gay 
with  azalea  that  varies  from  white  to  deep  orange.  The  bloom  of  the  laurel 
shades  from  white  to  delicate  pink,  and  in  June  the  purplish-red  splotches  of 
the  rhododendron  are  profuse.  Among  flowers  in  the  woods  are  colum- 
bine, bluet,  wild  iris,  Indian  pink,  ladyslipper,  and  trillium.  In  autumn 
the  deciduous  trees  are  a  riot  of  color  against  the  dark  blue  green  of  the 
evergreens. 

Although  the  variety  and  size  of  the  trees  change  with  the  difference 
in  altitude,  oaks  predominate.  Flowering  native  trees  include  the  silverbell, 
the  sourwood,  and  the  holly.  On  the  extreme  heights  the  growth  is  generally 
scrubby  owing  to  the  poor  quality  of  the  soil  as  well  as  to  the  elevation. 

Large  and  small  game  abound  in  the  forest.  The  preserve  is  closed  to 

446 


TOUR    2  I  A  447 

hunting  except  in  prescribed  periods  when  shooting  is  permitted  to  reduce 
the  game  population.  Trapped  deer  and  fawns  are  shipped  to  other  forests 
for  restocking. 

Apparent  in  the  forest  are  bear  wallows  and  grubbings,  also  deer  rubs, 
where  the  bucks  polish  their  hardening  antlers.  The  "browse  line"  effect 
of  dense  deer  population  is  noticeable  at  places  on  trees  and  shrubs.  The 
forest  is  open  to  fishing  for  periods  of  a  few  days  each,  between  May  15 
and  Aug.  31. 

Buck  Spring  Lodge  {closed),  16  m.  (L),  a  large  structure  of  logs  built 
by  George  W.  Vanderbilt  {see  asheville)  on  what  was  then  his  hunting 
estate,  is  at  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  Pisgah  Parking  Lot  {refreshments  sold  during  summer), 
0.2  m.  Straight  ahead  from  the  parking  lot  0.5  m.  on  a  foot  trail  over  a  comparatively 
level  path  through  dense  forest  to  the  divide  in  a  clearing.  Left  1  m.  on  the  trail  following 
a  stone-stepped  course  through  scrub  oak,  then  bushes,  finally  up  a  stiff  ascent  to  the 
TOP  OF  BIG  PISGAH  (5,749  alt.).  The  view  includes  points  in  North  Carolina  and 
South  Carolina  and  sometimes  Georgia,  Tennessee,  and  Virginia. 

On  the  Pisgah  Motor  Rd.  at  17  m.  is  Pisgah  Forest  Inn,  a  rustic  hostelry 
from  whose  front  porch  the  Pink  Beds  and  the  round  dome  of  Looking 
Glass  Rock  are  visible. 

The  Frying  Pan  Campground  {water,  firewood,  sanitary  conveniences), 
18.5  m.  (R),  is  the  highest  campground  (5,040  alt.)  in  the  forest. 

WAGON  ROAD  GAP,  20.5  m.,  is  at  the  junction  with  State  284  {see 
tour  21b),  now  the  route.  The  PINK  BEDS  (L),  23  m.  (3,277  alt.),  are 
a  stretch  of  natural  garden,  visible  from  the  highway  for  several  miles,  and 
probably  named  for  the  wealth  of  mountain  laurel  growing  here. 

At  23.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  Forest  Service  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  Pink  Beds  Forest  Campground  {water,  firewood,  sanitary  con- 
veniences), 0.3  m. 

The  U.S.  Fawn  Rearing  Plant  {visitors  by  permission  of  the  Ranger- 
Station  or  the  U.S.  Forest  Service  in  Asheville;  season,  ]une  i-Oct.  1)  is  at 
24  m.  (L).  This  is  the  only  plant  in  the  United  States  that  has  for  its  primary 
purpose  the  rearing  of  fawns.  People  in  this  area  are  given  permits  to  capture 
fawns,  which  the  plant  buys  at  $4  a  head  and  raises  on  bottles.  When 
they  are  six  months  old,  they  are  shipped  to  other  preserves.  About  135 
fawns  are  reared  each  year. 

LOOKING  GLASS  FALLS,  29  m.  (L),  is  formed  by  the  water  of  Look- 
ing Glass  Creek  tumbling  85  feet  from  a  rocky  precipice. 

On  the  R.  side  of  the  road,  across  from  the  falls,  is  the  junction  with  a 
trail. 

Right  1  m.  on  this  trail,  following  a  small  creek,  to  LOOKING  GLASS  ROCK  (4,000 
alt.),  a  granite  monolith  with  a  wide  fan  of  water  falling  from  its  broad,  bare  top. 
During  wet  springs  and  in  winter  when  the  water  is  frozen  the  reflected  light  makes  the 


448  TOURS 

rock  glisten  like  a  giant  mirror.  From  the  top  of  the  rock  is  a   panorama  of  peaks, 
valleys,  and  streams. 

The  Davidson  River  Campground  {water,  firewood,  sanitary  facilities, 
swimming  pool)  is  at  33  m. 

Left  from  the  Davidson  River  Campground  on  a  graveled  road  to  White  Pine  Camp- 
ground  {water,  firewood,  sanitary  conveniences),  0.5  m. 

At  36.5  m.  the  route  leaves  the  forest. 

PISGAH  FOREST,  38  m.  (2,107  a^->  775  P°P-)>  is  at  trie  junction  with 
US  64  (see  tour  26c). 


TOUR       2_    I    B 


Waynesville — Dellwood — Soco  Gap;  State  284,  293.  13  m. 

Roadbed   paved   throughout. 
Limited  accommodations. 

This  route  winds  up  a  narrow  valley  to  a  remote  gap,  on  the  boundary  of 
the  Cherokee  Reservation  (see  tour  21E),  and  approaches  the  Great  Smoky 
Mountains  National  Park. 

State  284  branches  north  from  US  19  at  WAYNESVILE,  0  m.  (see  tour 
21b).  At  DELLWOOD,  5  m.  (155  pop.),  is  the  junction  with  State  293, 
now  the  route. 

Left  on  State  293  through  upper  JONATHANS  CREEK  VALLEY,  deep 
and  narrow,  lying  close  under  PLOTT  BALSAM  MOUNTAIN  (6,200 
alt.). 

At  10.1  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  graded  dirt  Black  Camp  Gap  Rd. 

Right  on  this  road  to  BLACK  CAMP  GAP,  9  m.  (4,492  alt.),  an  abandoned  lumber 
camp  where  stone  pillars  mark  the  entrance  to  the  park.  From  this  point  on,  the  road 
follows  an  old  lumber  railroad  bed. 

At  14  m.,  in  a  high  shallow  valley,  is  HEINTOOGA  RIDGE,  with  beech  trees,  grass, 
and  a  little  stream  {parking  space,  picnicking  ground,  tourist  camp).  Here  the  road 
is  closed  to  all  but  fire  trucks.  About  100  yards  L.  is  HEINTOOGA  or  FLAT  CREEK 
BALD  (5,240  alt.),  from  which  is  a  view  to  the  south  of  the  main  divide  of  the  Smokies 
from  Clingmans  Dome  to  Mt.  Guyot. 

West  of  the  junction  with  the  Black  Camp  Gap  Rd.,  State  293  runs  past 
small  farms. 

At  SOCO  GAP,  13  m.  (4,338  alt.),  the  hard-surfaced  road  terminates  in 
the  "old  field"  at  Cold  Spring,  head  of  Jonathans  Creek.  Here  is  the  marked 
boundary  of  the  CHEROKEE  RESERVATION. 

The  Cherokee  refer  to  this  gap  as  Ahalu'na  (Ind.  place  where  they 
ambushed).  Before  the  coming  of  the  white  man,  the  Cherokee,  who 
used  this  place  for  a  lookout,  once  ambushed  a  large  party  of  invading 
Iroquois,  slaying  all  but  one.  Following  custom,  they  cut  off  the  ears  of  this 
victim  and  released  him  to  carry  the  news  back  to  his  people. 

Another  story  concerns  the  great  Chief  Tecumseh.  At  the  time  of  the 
War  of  1812,  he  and  certain  of  the  tribes  north  of  the  Ohio  had  allied 
themselves  with  the  British.  Tecumseh  came  to  enlist  the  aid  of  the 
Cherokee.  A  council  was  called  to  hear  him  and  Tecumseh  made  an  im- 
passioned   plea    to    the    assembled    warriors.    However,    their    own    chief, 

449 


450  TOURS 

Yonaguska,  advised  continued  peace.  When  he  realized  what  the  outcome 
would  be,  Tecumseh  is  said  to  have  made  his  departure  by  leaping  over  the 
heads  of  the  warriors  seated  in  a  ring  around  the  chiefs. 

In  March  1865,  Col.  George  W.  Kirk  with  a  regiment  of  Union  troops 
invaded  this  region  by  way  of  Cataloochee  {see  tour  21C),  burning  and 
destroying  as  he  went.  Colonel  Thomas'  regiment  of  Cherokee  met  Kirk  at 
Soco  and  helped  drive  him  back  into  Tennessee. 

Left  from  Soco  Gap  on  a  dry  weather  dirt  road  to  SOCO  FALLS,  1.3  m.,  tumbling 
60  feet  in  a  cuplike  space  between  two  peaks.  The  moisture  at  the  foot  has  produced 
an  unusual  growth  of  miliums. 


TOUR       2.    I    C 


Waynesville — Dellwood — Mt.  Sterling — Davenport  Gap;  State  284.  35.7  m. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 
Limited  accommodations. 

This  route  entering  the  eastern  edge  of  the  Great  Smoky  Mountains  Na- 
tional Park  reveals  exceptionally  fine  mountain  views,  including  that  from 
the  lookout  tower  on  Mt.  Sterling.  It  also  crosses  the  Cataloochee  Creek 
section,  noted  for  its  trout  fishing. 

State  284  branches  north  from  US  19  at  the  courthouse  in  WAYNES- 
VILLE, 0  m.  (see  tour  21b).  The  country  rolls  away  in  widely  sweeping 
hills  to  DELLWOOD,  5  m.  (155  pop.). 

The  road  that  first  traversed  this  section  was  hardly  more  than  a  track 
though  dignified  by  the  designation  of  turnpike.  Bishop  Asbury  describes 
crossing  Cataloochee  in  December  18 10:  "But,  O  the  mountain,  height  after 
height,  and  five  miles  over!" 

North  of  Dellwood  for  several  miles  the  route  traverses  the  broad  flat  lands 
of  JONATHANS  CREEK  VALLEY.  The  stream  (trout  fishing)  is  named 
for  Jonathan  McPeters,  one  of  the  first  white  men  in  this  section. 

Jonathans  Creek  Bridge  is  crossed  at  7.9  m.  An  ivy-covered  mill  with 
a  water  wheel  is  at  11.5  m.  At  11.6  m.  is  (L)  the  combination  garage,  store, 
and  filling  station  that  is  COVE  CREEK  POST  OFFICE  (33  pop.).  To  the 
north  houses  cling  precariously  to  the  sheer  mountainsides  that  rise  above 
the  narrow,  twisting  road. 

From  COVE  CREEK  GAP,  17.2  m.  (4,062  alt.),  at  the  easternmost  part 
of  the  GREAT  SMOKY  MOUNTAINS  NATIONAL  PARK  (see  great 
smoky  mountains  national  park)  are  views  of  Sterling  Ridge,  the  Great 
Balsam  Range,  the  main  Smokies  dominated  by  the  bulk  of  Mt.  Guyot, 
and  Mt.  Pisgah  in  the  south.  North  of  the  gap  the  road  broadens  and  winds 
down  the  northern  slope  of  Cataloochee  Divide  to  SAL  PATCH  GAP, 
18.6  m.  (3,473  alt.). 

From  MT.  STERLING  GAP,  27.4  m.  (3,894  alt.),  the  rocky  sides  of  Mt. 
Sterling  are  visible  (L),  rising  from  the  surrounding  forest. 

Left  from  Mt.  Sterling  Gap  on  a  foot  trail  mounting  the  slope  west  of  the  highway, 
to  Mt.  Sterling  Ridge.  L.  on  the  trail  to  the  SUMMIT  OF  MT.  STERLING  (5,835  alt.), 
3  m.  From  a  60-foot  steel  lookout  tower  is  a  wide  view  of  the  great  wilderness  area 
of  the  eastern  sector  of  the  Smokies.  In  the  foreground,  1,000  feet  below,  is  Cataloochee 
Creek. 

45i 


452  TOURS 

From  the  gap  State  284  descends  to  MT.  STERLING  POST  OFFICE, 
34.3  m.  (1,557  alt.,  250  pop.),  where  a  group  of  buildings  clusters  on  the 
banks  of  Big  Creek. 

Right  from  Mt.  Sterling  Post  Office,  on  a  level  trail  along  the  tracks  of  a  narrow-gage 
railway,  is  the  power  company's  village  of  WATERVILLE,  1  m.  (40  pop.),  on  the  Big 
Pigeon  River;  it  is  served  by  the  Tennessee  &  North  Carolina  Ry.  Here  is  the  Hydro- 
electric Plant  {open)  of  the  Carolina  Power  &  Light  Co.  The  waters  of  the  Pigeon 
River  and  Cataloochee  Creek  are  impounded  by  the  180-foot-high  dam.  A  tunnel,  8  miles 
long,  cut  through  the  solid  rock  base  of  Mt.  Sterling  Ridge,  carries  the  water  to  the 
generating  plant.  Built  in  1928  at  a  cost  of  $13,000,000  this  plant  has  a  capacity  of 
145,000  hp.  and  supplies  power  for  western  North  Carolina,  eastern  Tennessee,  western 
South  Carolina,  and  part  of  Georgia. 

At  DAVENPORT  GAP,  35.7  m.,  a  stone  marker  dated  1821  was  placed 
by  the  Davenport  surveying  party  on  the  North  Carolina-Tennessee 
boundary. 

At  Davenport  Gap  is  the  junction  with  the  Appalachian  Trail  (4-foot, 
graded  for  horses). 

Left  on  the  Appalachian  Trail  to  the  junction  with  an  ungraded  side  trail,  13.6  m. 
Right  on  the  ungraded  trail  {45-miniite  hil^e)  along  the  north  slope  to  the  summit 
(6,621  alt.)  of  MOUNT  GUYOT  (gee'-o,  with  the  g  hard),  the  second  highest  peak  in 
the  Smoky  Mountains,  discovered  by  S.  B.  Buckley,  who  named  it  for  his  friend, 
Arnold  Guyot  (1807-84).  Guyot  was  born  in  Switzerland,  came  to  America  in  1848, 
and  accepted  the  chair  of  geology  and  physical  geography  at  Princeton.  His  meteorological 
observations  led  to  the  formation  of  the  U.  S.  Weather  Bureau.  He  devoted  years  to 
the  study  of  the  Appalachian  Mountains,  and  between  1856-60  explored  the  Smokies  and 
the  Black  Mountains.  Guyot's  barometric  measurements  of  the  altitudes  of  the  peaks 
vary  hardly  20  feet  from  those  of  the  later  geologic  surveys,  made  with  better  equip- 
ment. A  fire  tower  gives  extensive  views. 

Between  Mount  Guyot  and  Clingmans  Dome  {see  tour  21E)  is  a  region  of  heath  balds. 
These  treeless  areas,  in  the  midst  of  spruce  and  hardwood  at  altitudes  of  4,000  feet  and 
higher,  are  covered  with  a  growth  of  almost  impenetrable  rhododendron  and  laurel. 
Locally  they  are  variously  called  "hells,"  "wooly-heads,"  and  "slicks,"  the  latter  because 
from  a  distance  the  dense  shrubs  of  almost  uniform  height  appear  to  be  a  smooth 
covering. 


TOUR       2_    I    D 


Sylva — Cullowhee — Tuckaseigee — Cashiers;  State  106.  34  m. 

Roadbeds  paved  and  sand-clay. 
Limited   accommodations. 

This  route  follows  the  gorge  of  the  rocky  and  swift-flowing  Tuckaseigee 
River  whose  sides  are  lined  with  luxuriant  forests,  thick  with  rhododendron 
and  azalea. 

State  106  branches  south  from  its  junction  with  US  19,  0  m.,  in  SYLVA 
{see  tour  21b). 

At  2.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  116,  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  State  116  is  WEBSTER,  2  m.  (2,188  alt.,  134  pop.),  built  on  an  Indian 
mound  from  which  relics  have  been  taken.  Webster  was  the  seat  of  Jackson  County 
until  it  was  replaced  by  Sylva  in  191 3.  The  old  courthouse  serves  as  a  store  building. 
Nickel  ore  occurs  in  the  section. 

South  of  the  junction  with  State  116  is  a  thickly  settled  farming  country. 

At  CULLOWHEE  (Cherokee:  Gualiyi,  place  of  the  spring  salad),  7.2  m. 
(2,066  alt.,  1,200  pop.),  is  Western  Carolina  Teachers  College,  founded 
in  1889  by  Robert  L.  Madison.  The  18  brick  buildings  occupy  a  partly 
wooded  campus  that  includes  a  natural  amphitheater.  On  the  100-acre  farm 
are  a  dairy  and  small  cannery.  On  the  farm  is  an  Indian  mound  that  was 
opened  by  the  Valentine  brothers,  who  removed  the  artifacts  to  their  museum 
in  Richmond,  Va.  Dean  W.  E.  Bird  of  the  college  has  the  original  account 
of  Chief  Yonaguska's  trance  in  which  he  urges  the  Indians  not  to  use  intoxi- 
cants. The  manuscript  was  written  in  Cherokee  by  the  chief's  brother.  In 
Cullowhee,  on  the  Speedwell  Rd.,  west  of  St.  David's  Episcopal  Church,  is 
the  Site  of  the  Home  of  Adam  Corn,  built  in  1820.  He  was  an  early 
Baptist  preacher  in  western  North  Carolina.  Mica-grinding  mills  are  oper- 
ated here. 

EAST  LAPORTE,  10  m.  (2,186  alt.,  200  pop.),  was  built  by  a  lumber 
company. 

Left  from  East  LaPorte  on  the  dirt  Caney  Fork  Rd.  to  the  Milas  Parker  Farm 
{visitors  welcome),  3  m.  Just  off  the  road  (L)  on  the  farm  is  the  Jutaculla  Rock, 
whose  soft  sandstone-  is  covered  with  mysterious  tracings  that  have  never  been  inter- 
preted. Cherokee  .  legend  —  relates  that  the  marks  were  made  by  a  mythical  giant, 
Tsul'kula,  in  leaping  from  his  home  on  the  mountaintop  to  the  creek  below. 

453 


454  tours 

At  12  m.  is  TUCKASEIGEE  (2,184  alt->  26  P°P-)- 

1.  Right  from  Tuckaseigee  on  a  logging  trail  to  the  Smoke  Hole,  3.5  m.,  where  passersby 
often  warm  their  hands  in  the  vapor  which  arises  when  the  temperature  is  low.  The 
Cherokee  explain  this  as  the  smoke  from  the  town  house  of  the  Nunnehi,  immortals 
who  dwell  beneath  the  mountains  and  the  rivers. 

2.  Left  from  Tuckaseigee  on  dirt  State  281,  called  the  Canada  Rd.,  to  Anvil  Tongue, 
6  m.,  a  great  rock  hanging  over  the  Canada  Prong  of  the  Tuckasegee  River.  Right  0.2  m. 
on  a  dirt  road  to  a  Natural  Rock  Bridge  spanning  the  prong,  and  WOLF  CREEK 
FALLS. 

South  of  Tuckaseigee  State  106  passes  through  wild  country  where  the 
mountains  overhang  the  river,  houses  perch  on  the  hillsides,  and  frail  wooden 
bridges  span  the  ravines  in  many  places. 

At  GRASSY  CREEK  FALLS  (R),  16.5  m.,  the  creek  waters  spill  over  a 
cliff  into  the  river.  From  this  point  the  climb  up  SHOAL  CREEK  MOUN- 
TAIN begins. 

HIGH  FALLS  GAP  (R),  20.5  m.,  is  a  cleared  space  at  the  top  of  a  hill. 

Right  on  a  foot  trail  down  the  steep  mountainside  to  a  fork;  L.  here  to  another  fork; 
L.  to  a  point  at  1.5  m.,  from  which,  across  the  ravine,  are  visible  the  HIGH  FALLS  OF 
THE  TUCKASEIGEE.  The  water  plunges  60  feet  in  a  single  downpour,  then  is  broken 
by  a  projecting  ledge  into  twin  sheets  falling  25  feet. 

State  106  ascends  the  mountain  to  ONION  SKIN  FALLS,  22.1  m. 

Southeast  of  GLENVILLE,  24.5  m.  (3,250  alt.,  400  pop.),  the  highway 
parallels,  crosses,  and  recrosses  the  waters  of  Hurricane  Creek;  then  it  crosses 
the  "long  middle"  top  of  the  Blue  Ridge.  CASHIERS,  34  m.  (3,000  alt.,  185 
pop.),  is  at  the  junction  with  US  64  (see  tour  26c). 


TOUR       2    I    E 


Junction  with  US  19 — Cherokee — Newfound  Gap — (Gatlinburg,  Tenn.) — 
(Maryville,  Tenn.) — Tapoco — Robbinsville — Topton;  State  107E,  107;  Tenn. 
71,  73;  US  129.  151  m. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Limited   accommodations    in    towns    along    the    route;    tourist  camps    in    Smoky    Park; 

resort  inn  at  Tapoco. 

This  loop  route  through  the  Great  Smoky  Mountains  National  Park 
swings  into  Tennessee,  and  re-enters  North  Carolina  at  the  park's  extreme 
southwest  boundary.  It  enters  the  Cherokee  Reservation  and  runs  for  long 
stretches  through  uninhabited  country. 

State  107E  branches  northeast  from  its  junction  with  US  19,  0  m.  (see 
tour  21 b),  at  a  point  9  miles  west  of  Dillsboro  and  runs  through  rolling 
farm  country  to  Soco  Creek  bridge,  4.8  m.  Refreshment  stands  and  country 
stores  displaying  Indian  pottery,  baskets,  and  beadwork  line  the  road. 

CHEROKEE,  6.1  m.  (1,945  a^->  225  P°P-)>  adjoins  the  entrance  to  the 
CHEROKEE  RESERVATION  {open  all  year). 

This  reservation  comprises  50,000  acres  in  Swain  and  Jackson  Counties 
and  isolated  tracts  totaling  13,000  acres  in  Graham  and  Cherokee  Counties. 
It  is  the  home  of  the  Eastern  Band  of  Cherokee  (see  Indians),  descendants 
of  a  group  of  Cherokee  who  fled  from  Gen.  Winfield  Scott's  soldiers  in  1838, 
during  the  Indian  removal,  and  took  refuge  in  the  Great  Smokies  where 
they  defied  capture.  General  Scott  agreed  to  let  the  fugitives  remain  in  return 
for  the  surrender  of  Tsali  (see  tour  21b)  and  his  kinsmen  who  had  killed 
a  soldier  in  making  their  escape.  This  land  was  purchased  for  them  with 
the  New  Echota,  Ga.,  treaty  money,  by  William  H.  Thomas,  Indian  agent. 

The  Oconaluftee  (Ind.  near  the  river)  River  flows  through  the  reservation 
lands,  which  are  mostly  mountainous,  though  coves  provide  arable  land. 
Except  the  balds,  the  mountains  are  forested  with  hardwoods  and  ever- 
greens. 

This  is  the  largest  organized  Indian  reservation  east  of  Wisconsin.  It  is 
estimated  that  between  700  and  800  of  the  3,327  residents  are  full-blooded 
Cherokee.  The  lands  are  held  in  common  for  the  tribe  under  the  super- 
vision of  the  Office  of  Indian  Affairs.  Domestic  matters  are  administered  by  a 
chief,  assistant  chief,  and  a  tribal  council  of  12,  all  of  whom  are  elective. 
Tracts  are  assigned  family  groups  who  may  erect  improvements  in  which 
they  retain  a  proprietary  interest  that  may  be  sold  to  their  successors.  Most 
of  the  Cherokee  are  members  of  the  Baptist  or  Methodist  churches.  Never- 

455 


456  TOURS 

theless,  traces  of  their  pagan  past  are  evidenced  by  the  15  or  more  practicing 
medicine  men  and  women  and  the  survival  of  conjuring  societies. 

Modern  brick  buildings  on  a  hill  near  the  entrance  contain  the  administra- 
tive offices,  hospital,  school,  and  dormitories.  Approximately  600  Cherokee 
children  are  instructed  in  the  central  boarding  school  and  in  five  outlying 
community  day  schools.  One-half  of  the  school  day  is  devoted  to  training 
in  industries  and  crafts.  Basketry  and  pottery  making  have  been  well  de- 
veloped. Emphasis  is  placed  on  farming,  dairying,  and  forestry.  Most  of  the 
coves  are  reached  by  an  extension  staff  offering  instruction  to  adults  in  gar- 
dening, agriculture,  and  crafts. 

A  large  athletic  field  occupies  a  level  tract  between  the  highway  and  the 
buildings.  Here  is  held  the  annual  Cherokee  Indian  Fair  {usually  1st.  u>\. 
in  Oct.;  adm.  50<j;),  a  tribal  gathering  and  exhibition  of  handicrafts  and  agri- 
cultural products.  Archery  and  blowgun  contests,  primitive  games,  and 
dances  are  presented.  One  of  these,  the  Green-Corn  Dance,  an  ancient  cere- 
monial celebrating  the  coming  of  the  harvest,  is  the  Indian  thanksgiving. 
A  feature  of  the  fair  is  the  game  of  Cherokee  Indian  ball,  similar  to  la- 
crosse but  much  older.  A  purification  rite  lasts  the  entire  night  before  the 
game. 

In  and  about  the  reservation  the  swarthy,  impassive,  solemn-visaged 
Indians  go  about  their  everyday  pursuits.  They  have  for  the  most  part 
adopted  modern  attire,  though  the  tribal  dress  is  used  on  festive  occasions. 
Many  of  the  women  still  wear  voluminous  gathered  skirts  and  the  red 
bandanna  head  covering,  and  carry  their  children  in  slings  on  their  backs; 
some  of  the  men  wear  long  hair  and  a  bandanna  neckerchief. 

The  Oconaluftee  River  Bridge,  6.2  m.,  is  at  the  junction  with  State 
107.  Right  on  State  107,  now  the  route,  at  7.5  m.  is  the  last  filling  station 
and  tavern  between  this  point  and  Gatlinburg,  Tenn.  Beneath  the  Boundary 
Tree  (L),  7.7  m.,  also  called  the  Old  Line  Tree,  on  the  line  dividing  the 
Qualla  Indian  Boundary  from  the  Great  Smoky  Mountains  National  Park, 
is  a  concrete  pillar  marked  QIB.  This  giant  poplar  bears  the  date  July  9, 
1795.  It  was  a  corner  of  one  of  the  grants  deeded  to  Felix  Walker  of 
"bunkum"  fame  (see  asheville),  when  this  was  a  part  of  Buncombe 
County. 

Within  the  park  the  route  continues  to  follow  the  Oconaluftee  through  a 
peaceful  countryside  where  dwellings  are  far  apart.  Saplings,  transplanted 
rhododendron,  and  shrubbery  bordering  the  highway,  as  well  as  the  absence 
of  signboards  and  unsightly  shacks,  are  evidences  of  the  National  Park 
Service's  improvements. 

At  10  m.,  across  the  river  (R),  is  RAVENSFORD  (2,037  alt-)>  on  Raven 
Fork.  Here,  before  the  park  took  over  its  lands,  a  lumber  company  main- 
tained a  village,  with  church,  school,  stores,  and  railroad. 

Right  from  Ravensford  on  a  dirt  road  is  BIG  COVE,  3  m.,  an  Indian  settlement  that 
has  retained  more  Indian  atmosphere  and  a  stronger  tribal  solidarity  than  any  of  the 
other  Indian  reservation  towns.  The  Cherokee,  who  live  in  simple  wooden  houses,  have 
preserved  their  ancient  folklore,  songs,  and  legends,  and  occasionally  still  dance  the  Dance 
of  Friendship,  the  Beaver  Dance,  and   the  Dance  of  Thanksgiving   for   abundant  crops. 


TOUR    2  I  E  457 

Here  is  a  Log  School  House,  built  by  Quakers  in  1880;  it  has  been  remodeled  and  is  now 
used  for  Cherokee  children. 

Near  the  confluence  of  Mingus  Creek  and  the  Oconaluftee,  10.5  m.,  stood 
a  log  house  in  which,  local  tradition  says,  Nancy  Hanks,  mother  of  Abraham 
Lincoln,  lived,  and  in  which  Lincoln  was  born.  The  story,  if  true,  would 
make  Lincoln  a  North  Carolinian. 

SMOKEMONT,  13.3  m.  (2,188  alt.,  25  pop.),  an  abandoned  lumber 
village,  is  (1939)  being  converted  into  a  tourist  center. 

At  Smokemont  the  route  begins  an  ascent  along  the  side  of  THOMAS 
RIDGE,  named  for  Col.  William  Holland  Thomas,  adopted  son  of  Chief 
Yonaguska  and  friend  of  the  Cherokee  (see  Indians).  At  THREE  FORKS, 
16.2  m.,  is  the  confluence  of  Kanati  Fork,  Kephart  Prong,  and  Beech  Flats 
Prong,  forming  the  Oconaluftee  River;  the  highway  follows  Beech  Flats 
Prong. 

From  NEWFOUND  GAP  (parking  space),  23.1  m.  (5,048  alt.),  on 
the  Tennessee  Line,  the  impressive  panorama  includes  the  Balsam  Mountains 
in  the  east;  Mt.  Le  Conte  (6,593  alt.)  in  the  north;  on  the  west  Mt.  Collins 
(6,188  alt.),  and  the  bulk  of  Clingmans  Dome.  At  Newfound  Gap  is  the 
junction  with  the  Appalachian  Trail,  the  Skyline  Drive,  and  Tenn.  71  (see 
tenn.  tour  5),  now  the  route. 

1.  The  Skyline  Dr.,  running  west  from  Newfound  Gap  to  Clingmans  Dome,  is  more 
than  a  mile  high  at  all  points,  with  easy  grades  and  rounded  curves,  and  is  regarded 
as  a  masterpiece  of  engineering. 

Left  on  the  Skyline  Dr.  on  the  Tennessee  side  through  a  forest  of  balsam,  hemlock, 
spruce,  and  rhododendron.  At  0.3  m.  the  drive  crosses  to  North  Carolina  and  passes 
around  the  shoulder  of  MT.  MINGUS,  1.2  m.  (5,800  alt.).  The  State  Line  is  touched 
again  at  INDIAN  GAP,  1.7  m.,  which,  until  a  road  was  built  through  Newfound  Gap, 
had  been  the  principal  gap  of  the  Smoky  Range.  Through  this  gap  passed  the  Tuckaleechee 
and  Southeastern  Trail,  important  in  war  and  commerce  since  it  connected  the  Overhill 
(Tennessee)  and  the  South  Carolina  settlements  of  the  Cherokee  Nation.  Tradition  is  that 
De  Soto  and  his  band  crossed  Indian  Gap  in  1540.  Col.  William  H.  Thomas  attempted 
to  build  a  road  through  the  gap  during  the  War  between  the  States  but  abandoned  the 
effort.  In  1864,  when  Gen.  Robert  B.  Vance  moved  his  artillery,  the  dismounted  cannon 
were  dragged  over  the  bare  stones  of  this  precipitous  course. 

Near  the  head  of  Deep  Creek,  left  of  the  gap,  is  the  region  in  which,  according  to 
Cherokee  legend,  Ataga'Hi  (Ind.  the  gull  place),  the  Enchanted  Lake,  lies.  A  hunter 
coming  near  would  know  it  by  the  sound  of  many  wings  but  he  would  not  behold 
the  lake  unless  his  spiritual  vision  were  sharpened  by  prayer.  In  its  purple  waters  bloom 
waterlilies  and  here  the  wounded  birds  and  animals  come  to  be  healed. 

From  Indian  Gap  (R)  is  a  view  of  Chimney  Tops.  MT.  COLLINS,  4  m.  (6,188  alt.), 
named  by  Arnold  Guyot  for  Robert  Collins,  one  of  the  first  settlers  on  Oconaluftee,  gives 
views  on  the  North  Carolina  side. 

From  the  Parking  Space,  7.6  m.,  where  Forney  Ridge  joins  Clingmans  Dome,  a 
chain  of  mountains  is  visible  in  three  directions  with  the  steep  final  rise  of  Clingmans 
tree-clad  peak  to  the  north. 

Right  from  this  point  on  a  paved  trail  to  the  SUMMIT  OF  CLINGMANS  DOME 
(6,642  alt.),  0.3  m.,  loftiest  peak  in  the  Smoky  Mountains  National  Park.  An  observation 
tower  gives  wide  views  in  all  directions.  The  mountain  was  known  to  the  Indians  as 
Ku  wa'  hi  (Ind.  mulbeiry  place).  Under  this  and  three  nearby  mountains  the  bears 
were  said  to  have  their  "town  houses."  Cherokee  mythology  ascribes  to  each  kind  of 
animal  a  giant  progenitor.   The   Great  White'  Bear   was   chief  and   doctor.   The  bears, 


458  TOURS 

believed  to  be  really  human  and  able  to  talk  when  they  wished,  met  on  Mulberry 
Place  to  dance  and  converse  before  going  to  sleep  for  the  winter.  Early  white  settlers 
called  Clingmans  Dome  "Smoky  Dome."  It  is  named  for  Gen.  Thomas  Lanier  Clingman 
(1812-97),  Confederate  general,  U.S.  Senator,  and  explorer  (see  asheville  and  tour 
3oA). 

2.  Right  from  Newfound  Gap  on  the  Appalachian  Trail  (4-foot,  graded  for  horses) 
to  MT.  KEPHART,  2.1  m.  (6,200  alt.),  named  in  honor  of  Horace  Kephart  (see  tour 
21b).  In  this  region  the  trail  traverses  part  of  the  area  that  was  until  recently  the 
wildest,  least-known  section  of  the  Smokies.  At  4.1  m.  is  CHARLIES  BUNION  (5,400 
alt.),  so  burned  during  logging  operations  that  the  soil  washed  off.  It  was  named  because 
Charlie  Conner,  a  guide,  described  it  as  about  the  size  of  "this  bunion  on  my  foot." 

The  cow  herder  of  the  Smokies  has  vanished.  In  the  late  1920's  he  and  his  dog  still 
patrolled  the  main  divide  and  the  leads,  tending  the  herds  of  small  Black  Poll,  a  type 
of  cattle  which  thrives  on  the  slopes.  Nipping  heels,  barking  at  heads,  and  running  from 
side  to  side,  the  dog  obeyed  the  instructions  of  the  master's  gesture  or  voice,  needing 
only  an  occasional  "pull  of  his  years"  for  correction. 

The  herders'  cabins,  5  or  6  miles  apart  along  the  ridge,  were  used  in  winter  by  bear 
hunters.  The  Tennesseeans  stalked  their  bears.  The  Carolinians  used  Plott  hounds,  a 
mixture  of  the  hound,  which  chased,  and  the  Mississippi  bear  dog,  which  fought.  Some- 
times it  took  several  days  to  drive  out  the  bears.  Division  of  meat  was  made  by 
"selling  out";  to  insure  impartial  distribution,  one  man  behind  a  tree  called  the  name 
of  one  of  the  party  as  a  piece  of  meat  was  held  up,  out  of  his  sight. 

At  GATLINBURG,  TENN.,  40.1  m.  (1,550  alt.,  500  pop.),  is  the  junc- 
tion with  Tenn.  73,  now  the  route.  Left  on  Tenn.  73  to  MARYVILLE, 
TENN.,  77.6  m.  (1,150  alt.,  4,958  pop.),  at  the  junction  with  US  129 
(see  tenn.  tour  3),  now  the  route. 

Left  on  US  129  is  DEALS  GAP,  115.6  m.  (1,957  3^t-)>  on  the  Tennessee- 
North  Carolina  boundary  and  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  Great  Smoky 
Mountains  National  Park.  At  Deals  Gap  is  the  junction  with  State  288 
(see  tour  21b)  and  the  Appalachian  Trail. 

Left  on  the  Appalachian  Trail  (4-foot,  graded)  to  GREGORY  BALD,  6.6  m.  (4.948 
alt.),  with  views  of  Parsons  Bald  to  the  west,  Yellow  Creek  Mountains  and  Cheoah  Bald 
to  the  south,  and  Rye  Patch  on  Long  Hungry  Ridge  to  the  east.  The  Cherokee  called 
Gregory  Bald  Tsistuyi  (Ind.  the  rabbit  place).  Here  rabbits  had  their  "town  houses" 
and  here  lived  their  chief,  the  Great  Rabbit,  large  as  a  deer. 

Little  River,  rising  on  the  Tennessee  side  under  this  range,  is  the  locale  of  another 
Indian  legend.  High  up  in  a  mountain  gap  lived  an  ogress  whose  food  was  human 
livers.  Once  she  destroyed  an  entire  encampment  on  Little  River  and  scattered  the  bones 
of  her  victims  over  the  gap.  The  Indians  never  smiled  after  this.  The  women,  however, 
taught  their  children  to  pray  for  protection.  After  the  ogress  had  carried  off  the 
daughter  of  Chief  White  Feather,  monster  and  child  were  found,  the  ogress  transformed 
into  gentleness  through  the  prayers  of  the  child.  She  returned  the  little  girl  to  her  father 
and  shortly  thereafter  disappeared  forever. 

On  US  129  at  116.6  m.  is  LAKE  CHEOAH,  created  by  the  Aluminum 
Co.  of  America  by  damming  the  northward-flowing  Little  Tennessee  River. 
The  road  follows  the  lake  shore  to  the  dam,  119.1  m.  A  lighted  concrete 
walkway  leads  (L)  across  the  dam  to  the  Power  Plant  (opeii). 

At  119.4  m.  is  a  one-way  bridge  across  the  Little  Tennessee  River,  which 
joins  the  Cheoah  River  below  the  dam. 

Tapoco  Lodge,  119.9  m.  (1,210  alt.),  is  a  year  around  tourist  hotel  (all 
accommodations} .  The  main  building  served  as  the  private  lodge  of  Andrew 


TOUR    2IE  459 

Mellon  while  the  giant  power  projects  of  his  aluminum  company  were  under 
construction.  Cottages  are  also  operated  by  the  lodge. 

South  of  Tapoco  Lodge,  US  129  enters  the  gorge  of  the  Cheoah  River, 
which  falls  rapidly  over  a  rock-strewn  bed  and  winds  through  wild  and 
primitive  country. 

At  125  m.  is  visible,  overhead  across  the  road,  the  large  pipe-line  that 
conveys  water  from  Lake  Santeedah  (Ind.  blue  waters)  to  Lake  Cheoah  as 
a  part  of  the  power  development. 

Between  128.4  m.  and  138.5  m.  the  route  follows  the  irregular  shore  line 
of  LAKE  SANTEETLAH  {small-mouthed  bass  and  bream  fishing;  boats 
and  guides  available)  which  has  an  area  of  3,000  acres.  Scores  of  fishing 
camps  and  tourist  cabins  line  its  shores.  The  tree-clad  Snowbird  Mountains 
rise  from  its  farther  edge.  Land  surrounding  the  lake,  comprising  25,000 
acres,  was  being  acquired  by  the  Federal  Government  in  1939  for  inclusion 
in  the  Nantahala  National  Forest. 

At  138.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  Forest  Service  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  JOYCE  KILMER  MEMORIAL  FOREST;  enter  near  the 
junction  of  Big  and  Little  Santeetlah  Creeks,  then  follow  an  old  wagon  road  to  a 
cleared  parking  space,  14  m.;  thence  on  a  foot  trail  0.5  m.  over  a  mountain  rise  into 
the  heart  of  BIG  POPLAR  COVE.  Here  is  a  granite  boulder  with  a  bronze  plaque  in- 
scribed to  Joyce  Kilmer,  author  of  the  poem,  Trees.  It  was  dedicated  on  the  18th 
anniversary  of  his  death,  July  30,  1936. 

This  3,800-acre  tract  at  a  point  where  the  Snowbird,  Cheoah,  and  Unicoi  Ranges 
converge,  is  in  the  Nantahala  National  Forest  {see  national  forests)  and  is  a  part 
of  a  38,000-acre  area  proposed  (1939)  for  maintenance  as  a  primitive  wilderness  and 
wildlife  sanctuary.  Its  virgin  forest  includes  poplar,  hemlock,  and  oak,  one  of  the  finest 
stands  of  its  type  in  America.  Some  of  the  giant  tulip-poplars  are  125  feet  high  and 
20  feet  in  circumference.  Bears,  deer,  and  wild  boars  are  so  numerous  that  the  U.S. 
Forest  Service  allows  them  to  be  hunted  annually.  The  boars  are  descended  from 
Prussian  and  African  wild  boars  that  escaped  from  a  private  hunting  estate  established 
nearby  in  1910. 

ROBBINSVILLE,  139  m.  (2,150  alt.,  345  pop.),  seat  of  Graham  County, 
is  a  little  mountain  village  at  the  crossroads  around  the  wooden  courthouse 
which  is  nearer  to  the  capitals  of  six  other  States  than  to  its  own. 

A  hotel,  facing  on  this  square,  appears  to  be  a  one-story  structure;  but, 
being  built  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  its  first  floor  in  front  becomes  the 
third  floor  in  the  rear.  Snowbird  Indians,  Cherokee  who  live  in  the  Snow- 
bird Mountains,  use  Robbinsville  as  a  shopping  place  and  are  often  on  the 
streets. 

On  a  hill  overlooking  the  village  is  the  marked  Grave  of  Chief  Tsunu'la- 
hosji  (Junaluska)  and  his  wife.  At  the  Battle  of  Horseshoe  Bend,  Mar.  29, 
1 814,  between  Creeks  and  Federal  troops,  Junaluska  saved  the  life  of 
Andrew  Jackson  but  later  is  said  to  have  regretted  his  bravery.  A  ridge 
west  of  Waynesville  and  a  lake  and  the  surrounding  grounds  are  named  for 
him  {see  tour  21b).  Junaluska  died  in  1858  when  almost  100  years  old. 

Lumbering  is  the  principal  activity  of  this  region,  though  fishing  and 
hunting  attract  many  sportsmen.  A  large  band  mill  manufactures  lumber. 


460  TOURS 

About  one-sixth  of  the  county  is  fenced  and  cultivated;  the  remainder  is  open 
range.  Cattle,  sheep,  and  hogs  are  pastured  on  this  free  range  and  signs  warn 
motorists  to  watch  out  for  cattle. 

Southeast  of  Robbinsville  US  129  traverses  a  high  plateau  dotted  with 
farms.  At  149  m.  it  passes  through  TULULA  GAP  (2,950  alt.),  to  POINT 
LOOKOUT.  Here  a  natural  rock  offers  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  Nantahala 
Gorge,  with  the  river,  the  railroad,  and  the  highway  winding  along  its 
length  far  below  (see  tour  21b). 

At  151  m.  in  RED  MARBLE  GAP  (2,750  alt.)  is  TOPTON  (2,599 
alt.,  250  pop.),  where  US  129  crosses  a  bridge  over  the  Southern  Ry.  Topton 
is  at  the  junction  with  US  19  (see  tour  21b). 


TOUR       2.    2. 


(Newport,  Tenn.)  —  Marshall  —  Asheville  —  Hendersonville — (Greenville, 

S.  C);  US  70-25,  25. 

Tennessee  Line — South  Carolina  Line,  83.5  m. 

Southern  Ry.  parallels  route  between  Tennessee  Line  and  Hendersonville. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  cities  and  towns;  tourist  homes  and  camps  along  the  route. 

Section  a.  TENNESSEE  LINE  to  ASHEVILLE;  50  m.  US  70-25 

This  route  is  the  principal  approach  from  the  Middle  West  to  the  moun- 
tains of  western  North  Carolina. 

US  70-25  crosses  the  Tennessee-North  Carolina  Line,  0  m.,  19  miles  east 
of  Newport,  Tenn.  (see  tenn.  tour  12)  and  follows  in  general  the  valley  of 
the  French  Broad  River. 

At  0.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  county  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  PAINT  ROCK,  3  m.  (1,265  alt.,  120  pop.),  named  for  a  sheer 
100-foot  cliff  overlooking  the  French  Broad  River.  The  red  stains  on  the  surface  of  the 
rock  are  caused  by  oxidation  of  iron.  The  1799  boundary  commission,  composed  of  Gen. 
Joseph  McDowell,  Col.  David  Vance,  and  Maj.  Mussendine  Mathews,  surveying  the  North 
Carolina-Tennessee  Line  reported  that  the  stains  resembled  the  figures  of  "some  humans, 
wild  beasts,  etc."  A  legend  says  that  two  Indian  lovers  from  different  tribes,  forbidden  to 
marry,  cast  themselves  from  the  top  and  stained  the  rock  with  their  blood. 

Near  Paint  Rock,  in  1855,  John  D.  Hyman,  editor  of  the  Spectator,  and  Dr.  W.  L. 
Hilliard,  postmaster,  both  of  Asheville,  fought  a  bloodless  duel  after  Hyman  had  criti- 
cized the  mail  service.  When  one  round  of  fire  with  rifles  was  exchanged  a  button  was 
clipped  from  Hilliard's  coat. 

East  of  the  junction  with  the  road  to  Paint  Rock  the  highway  twists  and 
turns  to  follow  the  contour  of  the  mountainsides  or  to  find  passage  through 
gaps  in  the  ridges.  The  Southern  Ry.  tracks  along  the  riverbank  follow  the 
only  possible  course  between  Newport  and  Asheville. 

HOT  SPRINGS,  7  m.  (1,332  alt.,  637  pop.),  for  years  known  as  Warm 
Springs,  was  a  famous  resort  until  the  1920's.  The  curative  properties  of  its 
waters,  valued  by  the  Indians  and  discovered  by  Henry  Reynolds  and 
Thomas  Morgan  in  1778,  attracted  invalids  in  spite  of  the  dangerous  road. 
Bishop  Francis  Asbury,  writing  in  1800,  described  some  of  the  hazards: 

"After  we  had  crossed  the  Small  and  Great  Paint  Mountain,  and  had 
passed  about  30  yards  beyond  the  Paint  Rock,  my  roan  horse  led  by  Mr. 
O'Haven  reeled  and  fell  over,  taking  the  chaise  with  him;  I  was  called  back, 

461 


462  TOURS 

when  I  beheld  the  poor  beast  and  the  carriage,  bottom  up,  lodged  and  wedged 
against  a  sapling,  which  alone  prevented  them  both  being  precipitated  into 
the  river." 

Of  their  departure  two  days  later  the  bishop  wrote: 

"We  crossed  the  ferry  curiously  contrived  with  a  rope  and  pole  for  half  a 
mile  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  to  guide  the  boat  by.  And  O  the  rocks!" 

This  road,  long  called  the  Old  Love  Road,  is  still  in  existence  but  little 
used.  The  Buncombe  Turnpike  from  Saluda  Gap  through  Asheville  to 
Warm  Springs  was  completed  in  1828  and  brought  a  stream  of  travel  into 
western  North  Carolina  from  the  south. 

Zebulon  Baird  Vance,  later  (1862  and  1877)  Governor  of  North  Carolina 
{see  asheville),  was  once  a  clerk  in  the  Patton  Hotel,  an  imposing  building 
with  13  white  pillars  to  represent  the  Thirteen  Original  Colonies.  After  it 
burned  in  1884,  Col.  J.  H.  Rumbough  built  the  Mountain  Park  Hotel, 
destroyed  by  fire  in  the  1920's.  In  one  of  its  booklets  the  management  stated: 

"Here  flow  the  new-born  crystal,  untainted  waters,  and  here,  far  down 
in  the  mysterious  laboratories  of  Nature,  are  found  the  minerals  which 
impart  to  these  waters  the  life-giving  virtues  that  bring  the  bloom  back  to 
the  cheek,  the  lustre  to  the  eye,  tone  to  the  languid  pulse,  strength  to  the 
jaded  nerves,  and  vigor  to  the  wasted  frame." 

The  springs  are  on  an  estate  once  the  property  of  Mrs.  Bessie  M.  Safford 
(1858-1930),  daughter  of  Colonel  Rumbough,  and  daughter-in-law  of  An- 
drew Johnson,  17th  President  of  the  United  States. 

In  19 1 7-1 8  a  camp  for  2,700  interned  German  sailors  and  officers  was 
operated  at  Hot  Springs. 

On  a  landscaped  campus  in  the  center  of  town  are  the  eight  local  granite 
buildings  of  the  Dorland  Bell  School  for  Girls,  founded  in  1887  by  Dr. 
and  Mrs.  Luke  Dorland.  Now  a  mission  school  of  the  Presbyterian  Church 
in  the  U.S.A.,  it  offers  high  school  courses  and  training  in  home  economics, 
handicrafts,  and  kindergarten  teaching  to  125  students. 

1.  Left  from  Hot  Springs  on  the  Appalachian  Trail  to  RICH  MOUNTAIN,  4.8  m.  (3,643 
alt.),  where  a  forest  fire  tower  gives  views  in  all  directions. 

2.  Right  from  Hot  Springs  on  the  Appalachian  Trail  to  LOOKOUT  POINT,  1.5  m., 
with  a  view  of  the  French  Broad  River  gorge   (R).  At  GOVENFLOW  GAP,  6.6  m. 

(2,450  alt.),  are  wide  mountain  views. 

3.  Left  from  US  70-25  on  a  Forest  Service  road  to  Silvermine  Campground  (camping, 
water,  fireplaces,  sanitary  equipment),  0.2  m.,  maintained  by  the  U.  S.  Forest  Service. 

South  of  Hot  Springs  the  route  crosses  the  French  Broad  River  and  begins 
a  long  mountain  ascent,  running  for  several  miles  through  the  French  Broad 
Division  of  Pisgah  National  Forest  {see  national  forests). 

Good  roads,  automobiles,  and  the  radio  have  brought  "civilization"  to 
much  of  the  mountain  country;  but  in  the  isolated  hollers  change  comes 
slowly  and  through  the  young  people.  Many  highlanders  live  in  cabins 
built  a  hundred  years  ago.  They  plant  crops,  make  soap,  and  cure  ills  by  the 
same  methods  their  ancestors  used.  The  mountaineer  kills  his  hogs  and  splits 


TOUR    22  463 

his  rails  when  the  moon  is  "right,"  and  he  plants  some  potatoes  on  Good 
Friday,  even  if  he  must  dig  in  the  mud  to  do  so.  Housewives  trudge  miles 
to  the  nearest  crossroads  store  to  trade  butter,  eggs,  and  chickens  for  salt, 
sugar,  coffee,  and  snuff. 

The  older  generation  may  have  little  formal  education,  but  they  have  a 
great  store  of  learning  handed  down  by  word  of  mouth.  Through  them  are 
preserved  many  old  English  and  Scotch  ballads  and  dances.  Even  their 
language,  quaint  to  lowlanders,  is  an  Anglo-Saxon  survival.  Like  Chaucer, 
the  mountaineer  often  says  hit  for  it.  Like  Shakespeare  he  calls  a  bag  a  po\e 
and  green  garden  stuff  sallet. 

At  12.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  208  {see  tour  22A). 

Near  the  top  of  a  mountain  grade  US  70-25  passes  the  village  of 
WALNUT,  17  m.  (2,000  alt.,  500  pop.),  where  cars  can  be  serviced.  For- 
merly known  as  Jewel  Hill  or  Duel  Hill,  the  village  was  the  seat  of 
Madison  County  from  1851  until  1855. 

MARSHALL,  28  m.  (1,650  alt.,  1,132  pop.),  named  for  Chief  Justice 
John  Marshall,  has  been  since  1855  the  seat  of  Madison  County,  formed 
in  1 85 1  and  named  for  James  Madison.  This  county  produces  more  burley 
tobacco  than  any  other  in  North  Carolina.  The  town,  built  in  the  wooded 
gorge  of  the  French  Broad  River,  is  said  to  be  "one  mile  long,  one  street 
wide,  and  sky  high."  Legend  says  that  here  the  first  pegged  shoes  were  made 
because  cobblers,  unable  to  stretch  their  thread  to  arm's  length,  could  not 
make  sewn  soles.  Many  houses  are  on  the  mountain  towering  above  the 
town;  others  seem  to  cling  to  the  sides  of  sheer  cliffs. 

Since  there  was  no  other  suitable  place  the  high  school  was  built  on 
BLANNERHASSET  ISLAND,  which  is  sometimes  flooded  by  high  water. 
The  island  is  believed  to  have  been  named  for  Blennerhasset  Island  in  the 
Ohio  River,  opposite  Marietta,  which  figured  in  the  ill-fated  ambitions  of 
Aaron  Burr. 

South  of  Marshall  the  highway,  cut  from  the  overhanging  rock,  follows 
the  east  bank  of  the  French  Broad.  At  42  m.  the  route  turns  sharply  (L) 
away  from  the  river  and  winds  high  above  the  surrounding  country.  At 
44  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  19-23  {see  tour  21a),  which  unites  with 
US  70-25  between  this  point  and  Asheville. 

LAKE  VIEW  PARK,  45  m.,  is  a  residential  subdivision  around  artificial 
Beaver  Lake  (R). 

ASHEVILLE,  50  m.  (2,216  alt.,  50,193  pop.)  {see  asheville). 

Points  of  Interest:  Biltmore  House,  Civic  Center,  Sondley  Library,  Grove  Park  Inn, 
Sunset  Mountain,  and  others. 

Asheville  is  at  the  junction  with  US  19-23  {see  tour  21),  US  74  {see  tour 
j/c),  and  US  70  {see  tour  jo). 


464  TOURS 

Section  b.  ASHEVILLE  to  SOUTH  CAROLINA  LINE;  33.5  m.  US  25 

The  route,  following  the  old  Buncombe  Turnpike,  crosses  the  Blue  Ridge, 
but  the  grade  is  so  gentle  and  the  ridge  so  low  that  the  crossing  is  barely 
noticeable. 

From  Pack  Square  in  ASHEVILLE,  0  m.,  US  25  runs  south  across  the 
Swannanoa  River  into  the  suburban  village  of  BILTMORE,  2  m.  (see  ashe- 
ville). 

Surrounding  ARDEN,  9.7  m.  (2,225  alt.,  103  pop.),  is  a  region  of  old 
estates  not  visible  from  the  highway. 

At  10  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  sand-clay  Fanning  Rd. 

Right  on  this  road  to  Rugby  Grange  {private),  1.7  m.,  onetime  home  of  George 
Westfeldt,  Swedish  diplomat,  who  bought  the  property  from  "Tiger  Bill"  Haywood  of 
Charleston,  S.  C.,  shortly  after  the  War  between  the  States  and  named  it  for  Rugby  School 
in  England.  Solidly  built  of  local  stone  with  galleries  on  all  sides,  the  house  crowns  a 
knoll  above  Cane  Creek  Valley. 

At  2.5  m.  is  Buck  Shoals  {private),  built  in  1891,  once  home  of  the  humorist  Bill 
Nye.  This  turreted  wooden  house  overlooks  the  valley  of  the  French  Broad  River.  While 
living  in  a  cottage  at  Skyland,  Nye  made  the  observation:  "George  Vanderbilt's  extensive 
grounds  command  a  fine  view  of  my  place."  Nye  is  buried  in  Calvary  Churchyard. 


uuuus  coiiiinuiiu  a  nuc  view  ui  my  jjiacc.      i>yc  is  uum 

At  10.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  gravel  road. 


Left  on  this  road  to  Christ  School,  1.5  m.,  an  Episcopal  school  for  boys,  whose  20 
granite  buildings  occupy  a  terraced,  landscaped  campus.  Founded  in  191  o  by  Thomas  C. 
Wetmore,  it  has  an  enrollment  of  about  no  with  courses  from  the  sixth  grade  through 
high  school. 

Struan  {private),  3.5  m.,  a  white-columned  mansion,  is  the  oldest  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. Built  in  1847  by  Alexander  Robertson  of  Charleston,  S.  C,  and  named  for  the 
Robertson  estate  in  Scotland,  the  house  was  raided  by  Union  soldiers.  The  marks  of  their 
hobnailed  boots  are  visible  on  the  old  floors,  and  a  small  sideboard  door  that  they  kicked 
in,  looking  for  brandy,  has  never  been  replaced.  The  stairway  is  of  graceful  design.  The 
roof  of  the  southern  veranda  is  made  of  boards  curved  to  resemble  a  ship's  timbers. 

US  25  passes  (L)  Calvary  Episcopal  Church,  11.4  m.,  consecrated  in 
1859,  destroyed  by  fire  in  1935,  and  rebuilt  in  1937.  The  brick  building  with 
pointed-arch  openings  and  a  buttressed  tower  follows  the  Gothic  style.  In 
the  churchyard  the  Grave  of  Bill  Nye  is  marked  by  a  rough  granite  boulder. 

Adjoining  the  church  grounds  is  the  junction  with  a  sand-clay  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  Asheville-Hendersonville  Airport,  2  m. 

South  of  FLETCHER,  12.3  m.  (2,112  alt.,  500  pop.),  are  the  rich  fields 
of  the  Cane  and  Mud  Creek  Valleys. 

HENDERSONVILLE,  21  m.  (2,146  alt.,  5,070  pop.). 

Railroad  Station:  Southern,  7th  Ave.  E. 

Bus  Station:  Church  St.  between  4th  and  5th  Aves. 

Information  Service:  Chamber  of  Commerce,  Skyland  Hotel  Bldg. 

Accommodations:   8   hotels,    3    open   in   summer   only;    tourist   homes,    boarding   houses; 

several  children's  summer  camps  in  vicinity. 
Golf:  Hendersonville  Country  Club,  5th  Ave.  to  Laurel  Park;   18  holes,  greens  fee,  75^ 

ex.  Sat.,  Sun.,  and  holidays,  $1. 


TOUR    2  2  465 

Hendersonville  is  a  mountain  resort  that  attracts  a  large  summer  colony 
from  all  parts  of  the  United  States.  The  broad  streets  are  shaded  by  maples 
and  oaks  in  the  deep-lawned  residential  sections,  where  many  of  the  fine 
houses  are  now  tourist  homes. 

The  city  is  the  seat  of  Henderson  County,  formed  in  1838,  a  mountainous 
area  with  altitudes  varying  from  1,400  to  5,200  feet.  Town  and  county  were 
named  for  Leonard  Henderson  (1772-1833),  Chief  Justice  of  the  North 
Carolina  Supreme  Court. 

Industrial  plants  produce  print  cloth,  paper  boxes,  hosiery,  pottery,  and 
yarn. 

Dixon's  Sanatorium,  3rd  Ave.  and  Flemington  St.,  also  known  as  the 
Judson  College  property,  is  an  outstanding  landmark.  Granite  pillars  mark 
the  entrance  to  the  wooded  grounds.  The  three-story  granite  building,  built 
about  1858,  served  various  schools.  The  main  facade  has  a  recessed  two-story 
portico  topped  with  a  pediment  containing  a  sentinel  window.  A  balustrade 
fronts  the  second-story  balcony,  and  a  square  cupola  surmounts  the  roof. 

In  Oakdale  Cemetery  on  6th  Ave.,  R.  0,7  m.  from  Main  St.,  is  the  Tomb 
of  the  Sunshine  Lady,  Mrs.  Charles  B.  Hansell  of  Atlanta,  Ga.  Mrs.  Han- 
sell  came  to  Hendersonville  about  1900  suffering  with  tuberculosis.  Before 
her  death  she  requested  that  she  be  buried  so  that  the  sun  would  always 
shine  upon  her  body.  In  the  top  of  her  concrete  tomb  are  numerous  lenses 
through  which  the  skeleton  was  visible  until  the  tomb  was  covered  in  1939. 

Hendersonville  is  at  the  junction  with  US  64  (see  tour  26c)  and  US  176 
(see  tour  22B). 

1.  Right  from  Main  St.  on  5th  Ave.  to  Laurel  Park  Estates  (open)  3  m.  At  3.2  m. 
is  the  junction  with  a  side  road;  L.  0.5  m.  on  this  road  to  RHODODENDRON  LAKE 
(water  sports).  At  0.7  m.  on  the  side  road  (R)  is  the  Hendersonville  Country  Club 
and  Golf  Course  (open). 

JUMPOFF  MOUNTAIN,  7.5  m.,  affords  wide  views.  On  its  summit  for  10  years 
stood  the  steel  girders  of  the  Fleetwood  Hotel,  a  reminder  of  the  real  estate  boom  of 
1925-26.  Thousands  of  dollars  were  fruitlessly  invested  in  this  building  which  was  never 
more  than  the  towering  framework  of  a  skyscraper  surrounded  by  rusting  radiators  and 
corroding  bathtubs. 

2.  Right  from  Hendersonville  on  Caswell  St.  to  KANUGA  LAKE  (clubhouse,  annexes, 
cottages,  water  sports,  and  pavilion  for  recreational  activities),  6  m.,  a  400-acre  summer 
assembly  ground  owned  and  operated  by  the  North  and  South  Carolina  Dioceses  of  the 
Episcopal  Church.  The  assembly  usually  opens  about  June  10. 

South  of  Hendersonville  on  US  25  is  FLAT  ROCK,  23.9  m.  (2,207  alt., 
1,062  pop.),  said  to  be  the  oldest  summer  resort  in  western  North  Carolina, 
"discovered"  by  residents  of  the  South  Carolina  and  Georgia  lowlands  seek- 
ing a  moderate  summer  climate.  About  18 12  a  land  company  purchased  an 
extensive  tract  and  launched  the  first  real  estate  boom  in  this  part  of  the 
State.  In  1820  North  and  South  Carolina,  cooperating  to  provide  for  the 
increasing  stream  of  traffic  through  Saluda  Gap,  issued  State  bonds  to  build 
the  Buncombe  Turnpike. 

St.  John's-in-the-Wilderness  (Episcopal),  24.6  m.  (R),  was  built  in 
1834-36  by  summer  residents  from  Charleston  and  Savannah   under   the 


466  TOURS 

leadership  of  Charles  S.  Baring.  The  general  plan  and  tower  buttresses 
of  this  building  of  hand-made  yellow  bricks  characterize  it  as  an  odd  com- 
bination of  Gothic  Revival  reminiscent  of  the  Early  Renaissance  in  Italy. 
Round-arched  windows  appear,  also  wide  eaves  under  the  roof  of  the  square 
bell  tower,  added  in  1854.  The  front  gable  bargeboards  are  decorated  with 
a  saw-tooth  motif  and  the  rear  facade  has  a  tall  triple-arched  window.  This 
church  replaced  the  small  chapel  of  ease  of  the  Baring  family  built  in  1832. 
In  the  churchyard  are  the  Graves  of  the  Family  of  Count  de  Choiseul, 
French  consul  at  Savannah;  his  son  Charles  fought  for  the  Confederacy  and 
was  killed  in  Virginia  in  1862.  The  Grave  of  Christopher  G.  Memminger, 
Secretary  of  the  Treasury  of  the  Confederate  States,  is  also  here. 

BONCLARKEN,  24.9  m.,  on  HIGHLAND  LAKE  (water  sports),  is 
the  assembly  grounds  for  the  Associate  Reformed  Presbyterian  Church.  The 
Christian  and  Lutheran  Churches  also  hold  annual  conferences  here.  The 
Highland  Lake  Golf  Club  maintains  a  9-hole  course. 

At  25.7  m.  the  highway  passes  the  entrance  (R)  to  Woodfields,  a  build- 
ing with  wide,  shaded  piazzas,  once  known  as  Farmers  Hotel,  little  altered 
since  it  was  built  in  1850. 

South  of  Flat  Rock  the  route  follows  a  twisting  downgrade.  The  wooded 
shores  of  LAKE  SUMMIT  (fishing,  swimming,  boating)  are  (L)  at  29.5  m. 

At  33.5  m.  US  25  crosses  the  South  Carolina  Line,  30  miles  north  of 
Greenville,  S.  C.  (see  s.  c.  tour  8). 

US  25  follows  the  old  Greenville  Road,  which,  at  the  North  Carolina- 
South  Carolina  Line,  was  the  scene  of  a  number  of  duels  fought  prior  to  the 
War  between  the  States.  In  an  encounter  between  Dr.  Robert  Brank  Vance 
and  Samuel  P.  Carson,  in  1827,  the  former  was  mortally  wounded  (see  tour 
21  a).  About  the  year  1855  Maj.  Marcus  Erwin  of  Asheville  and  Judge  John 
Baxter  of  Hendersonville  met  in  a  duel,  the  culmination  of  a  number  of 
newspaper  articles  Major  Erwin  had  written  on  States'  rights.  Judge  Baxter, 
who  fired  his  pistol  into  the  ground,  was  wounded  in  the  hand  by  Major 
Erwin's  bullet. 


TOUR       2.    2.    A 


Junction  with  US  70-25 — Devils  Fork  Gap — Junction  with  US  23-19W;  State 
208,  212.  35  m. 

Improved  highways. 

This  short  route  gives  access  to  a  once  very  remote  mountain  region  in  the 
country  of  moonshine  and  feuds. 

State  208  branches  north  from  its  junction  with  US  70-25,  0  m.,  7  miles 
east  of  Hot  Springs  (see  tour  22a). 

At  4  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  212. 

Right  on  State  212  is  a  region  known  *as  the  LAUREL  SECTION  OF  MADISON 
COUNTY — sometimes  called  "the  Land  of  Do  Without" — whose  remoteness  and  inacces- 
sibility long  kept  the  people  in  a  primitive  state.  The  area  is  divided  into  Shelton,  Little, 
and  Big  Laurel,  the  Spillcorn,  and  Foster  Creek  sections.  The  streams  that  give  the 
country  its  distinctive  character  cut  through  wooded  mountainsides  where  poplar,  oak, 
gum,  and  haw  trees  tower  above  tangles  of  rhododendron,  laurel,  and   dogwood. 

The  upper  part  is  sometimes  known  as  the  "English  Settlement,"  not  because  its  Scotch- 
Irish  inhabitants  came  from  England  but  because  many  families  are  descended  from  a 
man  named  English.  Many  of  these  folk  walked  across  the  mountains  through  Cum- 
berland Gap  into  Kentucky  to  join  the  Union  Army  during  the  War  between  the  States. 

The  little  corn  the  mountaineers  produce  can  be  marketed  only  with  difficulty,  unless 
it  becomes  "corn  juice" — more  easily  transported  and  more  profitable.  The  making  of 
illicit  liquor,  locally  called  "blockading,"  contributed  to  the  feuds  that  have  given  this 
region  its  old  name  of  "Bloody  Madison."  Men  known  to  have  given  information  to 
revenue  officers  were  shot  from  ambush,  and  sometimes  relatives  of  the  slain  would 
retaliate  in  kind.  Family  enmity  incurred  over  a  fist  fight,  rivalry  in  love,  or  even  the 
whipping  of  a  neighbor's  dog,  might  start  a  feud  of  long  standing.  While  most  of  the 
families  are  honest,  hard-working,  law-abiding  citizens,  some  in  the  Laurel  country,  as 
elsewhere,  are  inclined  to  terrorize  the  neighborhood.  However,  the  description  of  primi- 
tive conditions  in  which  most  novelists  delight  was  more  appropriate  to  life  in  the  moun- 
tains 20  years  or  more  ago. 

On  State  208  at  9  m.  is  ALLANSTAND  (2,000  alt.),  near  the  Tennessee 
Line  and  close  under  wild  Bald  Mountain.  Here  early  in  the  19th  century 
a  man  named  Allan  kept  a  "stand,"  where  drovers  could  spend  the  night 
while  driving  cattle,  sheep,  horses,  and  swine  from  Tennessee  to  the  South 
Carolina  and  Georgia  markets. 

In  1895  Frances  L.  Goodrich  started  the  Allanstand  Cottage  Industries, 
since  absorbed  by  the  Southern  Highland  Handicraft  Guild.  The  gift  of  a 
40-year-old  coverlet  suggested  to  her  the  revival  of  the  almost  forgotten 
mountain  arts  as  a  means  of  broadening  the  outlook  of  the  isolated  mountain 
women  and  of  bringing  them  an  income.  Older  women  were  able  to  recall 
and  teach  others  the  secrets  of  the  blue  pot,  into  which  go  indigo,  bran, 

467 


468  TOURS 

madder,  and  lye,  as  well  as  a  large  amount  of  patience.  The  dyeing  takes 
place  before  the  wool  is  spun,  hence  the  expression,  "dyed  in  the  wool." 
Using  bark  and  leaves,  these  weavers  are  able  to  develop  green,  brown, 
yellow,  orange,  and  black  dyes.  Hickory  bark,  with  the  addition  of  an  alkali 
to  "set  the  dye,"  gives  a  rich  olive  green. 

State  208  crosses  the  State  Line  at  10  m.,  20  miles  south  of  Greeneville, 
Tenn.  {see  tenn.  tour  7). 


TOUR       2.    2.    B 


Hendersonville — Saluda — Tryon — South  Carolina  Line;  US  176.  22  m. 

Southern  Ry.  parallels  route. 
Roadbed  paved  throughout. 
Hotel  accommodations  in  towns. 

The  highway  traverses  the  mountainous  southwestern  part  of  the  State 
where  the  mild  dry  climate  has  made  resorts  popular. 

US  176  branches  southeast  from  its  junction  with  US  25,  0  m.,  in  HEN- 
DERSONVILLE (see  tour  22b),  and  passes  through  farming  country. 
EAST  FLAT  ROCK,  3  m.,  is  the  railroad  station  for  Flat  Rock  (see  tour 
22b).  To  the  southeast  the  highway  widens  and  the  road  descends  through 
deep  gorges  along  forested  slopes  to  the  bottom  of  Saluda  Mountain.  At 
7.4  m.  is  the  Green  River  Bridge,  the  stream  almost  obscured  by  the  trees 
and  flowers  of  the  deep  canyon. 

SALUDA,  10.4  m.  (2,097  ^-j  55^  P°P-)  is  Dunt  on  Saluda  Mountain, 
where  the  steep  grade  of  the  Southern  Ry.  makes  an  extra  locomotive  neces- 
sary for  a  heavy  train.  Here  is  a  branch  of  the  Spartanburg  (S.  C.)  Baby 
Hospital  (open  May  15- Aug.  31),  occupying  a  two-story  frame  house  with 
accommodations  for  35  infants  and  18  mothers.  The  hospital  was  established 
in  1914  with  Dr.  D.  Lesesne  Smith  as  superintendent.  Here  are  held  the 
annual  summer  sessions  of  the  Southern  Pediatric  Seminar,  organized  in 
1 92 1  by  Dr.  Smith  to  benefit  the  general  practitioner  and  to  provide  a  post- 
graduate course  in  methods  of  diagnosis,  prevention,  and  treatment  of  chil- 
dren's diseases. 

The  Mountain  Home  (open),  11.5  m.  (R),  is  a  two-story  frame  building 
with  large  porches  overlooking  the  Pacolet  Valley.  It  is  maintained  by  the 
Brotherhood  of  Railway  Clerks  as  a  summer  resort  for  members  and  their 
families. 

At  MELROSE,  13  m.  (1,481  alt.,  20  pop.),  is  an  automatically  controlled 
safety  device  for  stopping  runaway  trains  by  shunting  them  to  a  spur  track 
running  up  the  mountain. 

Right  from  Melrose  on  the  graveled  and  marked  old  Saluda-Tryon  Rd.  to  PEARSON'S 
FALLS  (adm.  25$;  shelter,  ovens,  tables),  1  m.  In  this  400-acre  preserve  are  all  types  of 
flora  common  to  the  deciduous  forests  of  eastern  America.  The  falls,  tumbling  over 
rugged  rocks,  present  a  scene  of  unusual  beauty. 

Southeast  of  Melrose  US  176  crosses  and  recrosses  the  Pacolet  River  (trout 
and  bass). 

469 


470  TOURS 

At  18.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  side  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  HARMON  FIELD,  0.1  m.,  Tryon's  recreation  center  in  the  Pacolet 
Valley.  The  field  comprises  a  permanent  horse  show  ring,  steeplechase  course,  polo  field, 
baseball  and  football  grounds,  and  a  well -equipped  playground.  Here  is  held  the  annual 
Spring  Festival  (Apr.).  The  200  or  more  participants  wear  medieval  garb  for  the  tilting 
tournament,  pageant,  and  the  grand  ball.  The  annual  Horse  and  Hound  Show  and 
Gymkhana  (Apr.)  are  sponsored  by  the  Tryon  Riding  and  Hunt  Club.  The  club  main- 
tains some  500  miles  of  bridle  paths  and  in  season  organizes  "drag"  and  live-fox  hunts. 

TRYON,  21  m.  (1,085  alt->  r>67°  P°P-)- 

Transportation:  Southern  Ry. 

Accommodations:  4  hotels,  lodges,  and  inns. 

Golf:  Tryon  Country  Club,  1.5  m.  N.  on  US  176  and  the  Country  Club  Rd.,  9  holes, 

greens  fee,  $1. 
Annual  Events:  Spring  Festival,  Harmon  Field  (Apr.);  Gymkhana  and  Horse  and  Hound 

Show,  Harmon  Field   (Apr.). 

The  largest  town  in  Polk  County,  Tryon  lies  on  the  southern  slope  of  the 
Blue  Ridge  close  to  Tryon  Peak,  for  which  the  town  is  named.  The  peak 
retained  the  name  of  North  Carolina's  royal  Governor,  William  Tryon, 
though  the  county  which  bore  it  was  abolished  in  1779.  Tryon  has  an  unusu- 
ally mild  winter  climate,  as  it  lies  within  the  Thermal  Belt,  ordinarily  free 
from  frost  and  dew.  Many  fine  fruits,  including  Tryon  grapes,  grow  here. 

The  Lanier  Library,  10,000  volumes  in  a  brown-shingled  building,  is 
maintained  by  the  Lanier  Club,  a  women's  organization  founded  in  1890 
and  named  for  the  poet,  Sidney  Lanier,  whose  last  home  was  near  Tryon. 
The  Drama  Fortnightly,  little  theater  group,  presents  plays  every  other 
Wednesday  and  Thursday  nights  during  the  winter. 

Gillette  Estates,  once  the  home  of  William  Gillette,  actor  and  play- 
wright, has  been  converted  into  a  residential  suburb.  Friendly  Hills  {pri- 
vate), Country  Club  Rd.,  is  the  winter  home  of  the  writer,  Margaret  Culkin 
Banning.  Other  writers  associated  with  Tryon  include  Anne  Bosworth 
Greene,  also  an  artist,  and  Thomas  Dixon  {see  the  arts). 

The  Toy  House  {open  10-12,  3-5  Mon.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  Fri.),  on  a  hillside 
on  Howard  St.,  is  the  home  of  the  Tryon  Craft  School.  It  was  opened  in 
1936  by  the  Misses  Eleanor  Vance  and  Charlotte  Yale,  founders  of  the  Bilt- 
more  Industries  {see  asheville)  and  of  the  Tryon  Toy-Makers  and  Wood- 
Carvers.  Miss  Vance,  skilled  craftswoman  and  former  pupil  of  William 
Fry,  instructs  the  children,  selected  for  their  ability  and  aptitude,  in  wood 
carving  and  designing. 

The  Appalachian  Hand  Weavers  {visitors  welcome)  occupy  a  vine-cov- 
ered building  at  the  western  edge  of  Tryon.  In  the  workshop  skilled  moun- 
tain workers  weave  homespun  on  hand-looms  from  yarns  dyed  in  the  wool. 
The  shop  also  features  other  mountain-made  products. 

Left  from  Tryon  on  State  181  in  the  village  of  LYNN,  2  m.  (250  pop.),  is  a  frame 
cottage  in  which  Sidney  Lanier  (1842-81),  the  poet,  spent  his  last  days.  A  Monument  to 
Lanier  was  erected  in  the  garden  of  the  premises  in   1930. 

At  2.2  m.  on  State  181  is  the  junction  with  the  graveled  Howard  Gap  Rd.;  L.  4  m. 
on  this  road   to  ROUND  MOUNTAIN  where   in    1906  a   granite  shaft   was  erected   to 


TOUR    22B  471 

mark  the  Site  of  the  Battle  of  Round  Mountain  (1776).  Skyuka,  a  young  Indian 
whom  Capt.  Thomas  Howard  befriended,  warned  the  settlers  gathered  at  the  Old  Block- 
house of  an  impending  Indian  attack.  Guiding  them  behind  Round  Mountain  he  enabled 
Captain  Howard  to  defeat  the  Indians  and  end  hostilities  for  the  time. 

At  5  m.  on  State  181  is  COLUMBUS  (1,145  ah.,  340  pop.),  seat  of  Polk  County,  a 
village  without  railway  facilities,  named  for  Dr.  Columbus  Mills  who  was  a  member  of 
the  general  assembly  that  created  Polk  County  in  1855.  The  brick  Polk  County  Court- 
house with  classic  portico,  built  in  the  same  year,  is  still  in  use.  A  small  silk  mill  is  oper- 
ated in  the  village. 

At  21.8  m.  are  the  entrance  gates  to  LAKE  LANIER  {tea  house;  fish- 
ing, boating,  swimming),  a  175-acre  artificial  lake  bordered  by  7  miles  of 
driveway. 

Right  on  the  entrance  drive  to  the  Junction  with  West  Shore  Dr.,  0.2  m. ;  R.  2  m.  on 
West  Shore  Dr.  to  the  PIEDMONT  BOY  SCOUTS  CAMP,  established  in  1925. 

Old  Blockhouse,  21.9  m.,  just  within  the  North  Carolina  boundary,  is 
a  pre-Revolutionary  structure  built  as  an  Indian  trading  post  and  later  used 
for  protection  against  hostile  Cherokee.  It  is  a  low,  one-story  building  with 
end  chimneys  and  a  long  veranda.  Unchanged  except  for  the  addition  of 
weatherboarding  about  1880,  it  has  been  converted  into  the  home  and  shop 
of  an  antique  dealer. 

US  176  crosses  the  South  Carolina  Line  at  22  m.,  25  miles  northwest  of 
Spartanburg,  S.  C.  {see  s.  c.  tour  12). 


TOUR       2.    3 


Dillsboro — Franklin — (Clayton,  Ga.);  US  23. 
Dillsboro — Georgia  Line,  35  m. 

Tallulah  Falls  R.R.  parallels  route  between  Franklin  and  Clayton,  Ga. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Accommodations  in  towns;  camping  facilities  in  Nantahala  National  Forest. 

US  23  penetrates  the  heart  of  the  Nantahala  National  Forest,  crossing 
wooded  mountain  ranges  in  a  section  known  for  its  trout  streams,  minerals, 
precious  stones,  wild  and  rugged  scenery,  and  beautiful  waterfalls. 

South  of  DILLSBORO,  0  m.  (see  tour  21b),  US  23  crosses  the  Tucka- 
segee  River  and  winds  down  a  pleasant  tree-shaded  way.  Paralleling  Savan- 
nah Creek,  the  road  traverses  farm  country  and  then  begins  to  wind  and 
climb  up  the  slopes  of  the  tree-covered  COWEE  MOUNTAINS,  rising 
close  from  the  road  on  the  R.  and  falling  sheer  to  the  valley  on  the  L. 

WATAUGA  GAP,  11.3  m.  (3,300  alt.),  is  in  the  COWEE  RANGE, 
the  water  divide  between  the  Little  Tennessee  and  Tuckasegee  Rivers. 

At  18.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  side  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  LAKE  EMORY  {swimming,  fishing,  boating),  0.6  m.,  formed 
by  damming  the  Little  Tennessee  River  for  electric  power. 

At  20.2  m.  is  the  eastern  junction  with  US  64  (see  tour  26c). 

West  of  the  junction  the  highway  crosses  the  Little  Tennessee  River,  which 
rises  in  Georgia  and  flows  northward.  Muskellunge,  game  fish  seldom  found 
south  of  the  Great  Lakes,  here  sometimes  attain  a  length  of  5  feet  and  a 
weight  of  50  pounds. 

On  a  rise  at  20.3  m.  is  an  Indian  Mound  (L)  in  the  form  of  a  truncated 
cone,  the  largest  in  North  Carolina.  A  Cherokee  house  that  once  stood  on 
this  mound  was  part  of  the  Cherokee  town  of  Nikwasi.  The  Indians  believed 
that  it  was  the  home  of  the  Nunnehi  (Immortals),  and  that  a  perpetual  fire 
burned  within.  Here  a  British  agent  held  council  with  the  Cherokee  in  1730. 

FRANKLIN,  21  m.  (2,113  ^t.,  1,094  P°P-)>  seat  °f  Macon  County,  is  on 
a  high  ridge  overlooking  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Little  Tennessee,  which 
is  surrounded  by  the  peaks  of  the  Cowee,  Fishhawk,  and  Nantahala  Ranges. 
This  was  the  site  of  the  old  Cherokee  settlement,  Nikwasi,  known  as  Sacred 
Town.  Although  twice  destroyed  and  rebuilt,  it  was  occupied  by  the  Chero- 
kee until  the  land  was  sold  in  1819.  Franklin,  named  for  Jesse  Franklin, 

472 


tour  23  473 

Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1820-21),  is  known  for  the  beauty  of  its  setting 
and  its  mountain  climate. 

Industrial  plants  of  the  town,  dependent  upon  the  vast  natural  resources 
of  the  section,  include  paper  mills,  extract  factories,  talc  and  mica  mines. 
Lumber  companies,  together  with  a  dogwood-shuttle  mill,  provide  a  market 
for  much  of  the  timber. 

Macon  County  was  formed  in  1828  and  named  for  Nathaniel  Macon, 
North  Carolina  statesman  and  Revolutionary  soldier  (see  tour  24).  For 
more  than  a  century  Indians  and  whites  have  mined  this  section  for  gold 
and  precious  stones.  Holes  in  which  trees  bearing  300  rings  are  growing, 
are  believed  to  be  mines  left  by  the  Spanish  expedition  of  1560  following 
De  Soto's  earlier  trail.  Important  commercially  are  mica,  kaolin,  and  asbestos. 
Experts  estimate  that  the  mineral  resources  of  the  region  have  hardly  been 
scratched.  Many  precious  and  semiprecious  stones  occur,  including  amethyst, 
garnet,  sapphire,  beryl,  aquamarine,  and,  on  Cowee  Creek,  fine  rubies.  The 
section  is  known  for  its  fine  apples  and  cabbages,  though  truck,  grain,  and 
berry  crops  are  also  produced.  Some  livestock  is  also  raised. 

Franklin's  most  imposing  structure,  the  Macon  County  Courthouse,  E. 
Main  St.,  is  a  red  brick  and  cast-stone  building  which  also  houses  the  offices 
of  the  Wayah  district  ranger  of  the  Nantahala  National  Forest  (see  national 
forests).  The  offices  of  the  forest  supervisor  are  in  the  Federal  Building. 

At  21.1  m.  is  the  western  junction  with  US  64  (see  tour  26c). 

South  of  Franklin  US  25  parallels  the  course  of  the  Little  Tennessee  River 
to  the  Georgia  Line. 

The  route  crosses  Cartoogechaye  (Ind.,  the  village  beyond)  Creek  at 
23.5  m.,  so  named  because  it  empties  into  the  Little  Tennessee  just  beyond  the 
old  Indian  village  of  Naguessa. 

Crossing  Coweta  Creek  at  30  m.,  and  Commissioner  Creek  at  34.5  m., 
the  route  reaches  the  Georgia  Line  at  35  m.,  9  miles  north  of  Clayton,  Ga. 
(see  ga.  tour  7). 


TOUR       Z    4 


(  Franklin,    Va . ) — Murf  reesboro — Roxboro — Winston-Salem — Mocksville ; 

US  158. 

Virginia  Line — Mocksville,  252  m. 

Atlantic  Coast  Line  R.R.  parallels  the  route  between  Garysburg  and   Weldon;  Seaboard 

Air  Line  R.R.  between  Garysburg  and  Henderson;  Southern  Ry.  between  Henderson  and 

Oxford,  and  between  Winston-Salem  and  Mocksville. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  cities  and  towns;  tourist  homes,  inns,  and  camps  along  route. 

Section  a.  VIRGINIA  LINE  to  ROXBORO;  134  m.  US  158. 

Between  the  Virginia  Line  and  Roxboro  this  route  parallels  the  Virginia- 
North  Carolina  boundary,  running  through  rolling  farm  lands  and  second- 
growth  forests.  Water-rooted  cypresses  rise  from  swampy  places.  Crops  are 
chiefly  cotton,  corn,  and  tobacco,  with  limited  areas  of  potatoes  and  peanuts. 

US  158  crosses  the  North  Carolina  Line,  0  m.,  12  miles  south  of  Franklin, 
Va.  (see  va.  tour  7). 

MURFREESBORO,  11m.  (1,000  pop.),  in  an  agricultural  and  lumbering 
area,  is  a  college  town  on  the  Meherrin  River.  Its  old  homes  and  large  trees 
give  indication  of  its  18-century  origin. 

William  Murfree  in  1787  gave  land  surrounding  Murfrees  Landing.  To- 
bacco, naval  stores,  corn,  pork,  and  lumber  were  shipped  down  the  Meherrin 
to  the  Chowan  River  and  thence  across  Albemarle  Sound  to  the  ocean.  The 
yellow  brick  Murfree  Home  {private)  is  the  mansion  of  the  founder's  fam- 
ily. The  porch  columns  were  added  in  recent  years. 

Chowan  College,  oldest  Baptist  women's  school  in  the  State,  founded  in 
1848  as  Chowan  Baptist  Female  Institute,  has  an  enrollment  of  about  100. 

At  13  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  258  (see  tour  2). 

JACKSON,  31  m.  (150  alt.,  677  pop.),  seat  of  Northampton  County,  is 
the  market  for  a  cotton-,  corn-,  and  peanut-growing  area.  When  the  first 
courthouse  was  built  in  1742  the  town  was  known  as  Northampton  Court- 
house; it  was  incorporated  in  1823  as  Jackson,  for  Andrew  Jackson.  In  1831, 
during  the  slave  insurrection  led  by  Nat  Turner  in  the  adjoining  county  of 
Southampton,  Va.,  North  Carolina  militia  were  mobilized  at  Jackson  in 
readiness  for  a  local  slave  uprising  that  did  not  materialize.  It  was  agreed  that 
the  alarm  signal  would  be  the  firing  of  a  musket.  Accidental  discharge  of  a 
militiaman's  gun  caused  a  near-panic. 

474 


TOUR    24  475 

The  Northampton  County  Courthouse  (1859)  has  a  facade  of  tall  col- 
umns, large  windows,  and  high  ceilings.  Tradition  says  Cornwallis  stopped 
at  a  tavern  that  stood  on  a  corner  diagonally  opposite  the  courthouse.  The 
Bragg  House  was  built  in  1835  by  Thomas  Bragg,  Governor  of  North  Caro- 
lina (1855-59),  U.  S.  Senator,  and  Attorney  General  of  the  Confederate 
States.  In  the  family  cemetery  near  the  house  is  the  Grave  of  Thomas  Bragg. 

At  Boones  Mill  Pond,  34  m.,  the  highway  crosses  a  bridge  over  the  race 
and  dam  where  a  mill  once  stood,  the  Site  of  the  Battle  of  Boones  Mill, 
July  29,  1864. 

At  35  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  sand  road  crossing  the  plantation  of  Matt 
W.  Ransom,  Confederate  general  who  became  U.  S.  Senator  (1872-95)  and 
Minister  to  Mexico. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  Ransom  House  {grounds  open),  0.3  m.,  a  plantation  manor 
built  in  1857,  now  falling  into  disrepair.  The  rectangular  building  has  a  high,  wide 
porch  and  a  long  flight  of  outside  steps.  The  Grave  of  General  Ransom  is  in  the  family 
cemetery  nearby. 

GARYSBURG,  41  m.  (145  alt.,  284  pop.),  is  at  the  junction  with  US  301 
{see  tour  j),  which  unites  with  US  158  between  this  point  and  WELDON, 
43  m.  (77  alt.,  2,323  pop.)  {see  tour  3). 

ROANOKE  RAPIDS,  47  m.  (169  alt.,  3,404  pop.),  named  for  the  rapids 
in  the  Roanoke  River,  is  an  industrial  town  that  has  trebled  its  population 
since  1930.  Founded  in  1893  by  John  Armstrong  Chaloner,  a  New  York  in- 
dustrialist seeking  a  site  for  cotton  mills,  the  town  was  first  called  Great 
Falls.  More  than  5,000  operatives  are  employed  in  the  local  knitting,  damask, 
and  paper  mills. 

Left  from  Roanoke  Rapids  on  1st  St.  to  an  unpaved  road;  R.  on  this  road  are  visible 
the  FALLS  OF  THE  ROANOKE,  1  m. 

LITTLETON,  62  m.  (389  alt.,  1,133  P°P-)»  was  founded  before  the  Revo- 
lutionary War  and  named  for  William  P.  Little,  whose  parents  built  Mosby 
Hall.  Part  of  Little's  private  race  track  followed  what  is  now  Mosby  Avenue. 
Lumber  manufacturing  and  truck  farming  are  the  chief  occupations. 

Old  Ordinary  Tavern,  called  locally  the  "old  ornery,"  now  housing  a 
grade  school,  was  erected  in  1774.  Mosby  Hall  (1774)  has  mantel  friezes 
modeled  after  those  of  the  Parthenon.  A  lead  roof  was  removed  during  the 
War  between  the  States  to  be  made  into  bullets. 

VAUGHAN  (Vaughn),  66  m.  (353  alt.,  211  pop.),  is  a  village  sur- 
rounded by  corn  and  tobacco  country. 

Right  from  Vaughan  on  a  sand-clay  road  to  Buck  Springs  {open),  4  m.,  home  of 
Nathaniel  Macon  (1 758-1 837),  three  times  Speaker  of  the  U.  S.  House  of  Representatives 
(1801-7),  U.  S.  Senator  (1815-28),  and  North  Carolina's  foremost  proponent  of  the 
political  principles  of  Thomas  Jefferson.  Macon  County  is  named  for  him. 

The  house,  a  plain  structure  of  poplar  plank,  restored  in  1937,  stands  in  a  great  oak 
grove;  it  is  named  for  a  nearby  spring  in  what  was  once  a  deer  park.  A  neighbor  of 
Macon's  described  the  building  as  a  "neat  little  single-storied  frame  house  sixteen  feet 
square,  with  an  upstairs  and  a  cellar  furnished  in  the  plainest  style  for  his  own  dwelling, 
with  a  sufficient  number  of  outhouses  to  accommodate  comfortably  his  visitors." 


476  TOURS 

At  77  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  58  {see  tour  6). 

WARRENTON,  78  m.  (250  alt.,  1,072  pop.),  seat  of  Warren  County, 
for  more  than  half  a  century  preceding  the  War  between  the  States  was 
known  as  a  center  of  culture  where  men  prominent  in  the  State  and  Nation 
made  their  homes,  and  where  numerous  private  schools  and  academies 
flourished.  A  hotel  and  the  3-mile  railroad  connecting  the  town  with  the 
Seaboard  Air  Line  R.R.  at  Warren  Plains  are  municipally  owned.  Textile 
manufacturing  is  the  chief  industry. 

Warrenton  and  Warren  County  were  founded  in  1779  and  named  for 
Gen.  Joseph  Warren  of  Massachusetts,  who  fell  at  Bunker  Hill.  The  town 
was  laid  out  in  that  year  by  William  Christmas.  The  only  building  then  on 
the  site  was  a  granary  where  grain  was  collected  to  finance  the  Revolution, 
though  there  was  a  settlement  nearby  at  the  junction  of  the  Shady  Grove  and 
Halifax  stage  roads.  A  central  square  was  set  aside  for  the  courthouse  that 
was  built  in  1783.  Before  i860  well-to-do  plantation  owners  found  life  in 
Warrenton  gay,  with  elaborate  dinners  and  balls,  horse  racing,  card  playing 
and  "cocking  mains"  between  prize  birds. 

Warrenton  was  the  birthplace  of  Frances  Boyd  Calhoun,  author  of  Aunt 
Minerva  and  William  Green  Hill,  and  also  of  Peter  Mitchel  Wilson 
(1849-  ),  journalist,  and  Crichton  Thorne,  author  of  Chimney  City, 
which  won  an  O.  Henry  Memorial  Prize  Award  in  1931. 

Emmanuel  Episcopal  Church,  229  N.  Main  St.,  when  erected  in  1824 
for  a  parish  organized  three  years  before,  was  a  frame  structure  with  the 
inside  south  gallery  reserved  for  Negroes.  In  1854-55  tne  building  was  en- 
larged and  the  turreted  central  tower  and  steeple  added.  In  this  church  on 
July  5,  1836,  Horace  Greeley  was  married  to  Mary  Cheney,  who  had  been 
teaching  at  one  of  Warrenton's  private  schools. 

The  Eaton  Place  {private),  306  N.  Main  St.,  was  built  in  1843  by  Wil- 
liam Eaton,  Sr.,  who  was  perhaps  the  wealthiest  owner  of  land  and  slaves  on 
Roanoke  River.  He  built  the  house  as  a  summer  home  where  his  daughter, 
Ella,  could  entertain  her  school  friends.  She  later  married  P.  Hansborough 
Bell,  Governor  of  Texas  (1849-54),  and  they  made  their  home  here  for 
several  years. 

The  rectangular,  two-story  brick  structure  with  its  Greek  Revival  details 
is  typical  of  the  work  of  its  builder,  Jacob  Holt.  The  house  is  surrounded  by 
fine  boxwoods.  Holt  was  one  of  a  group  of  skilled  artisans  who  came  to 
Warrenton  from  Prince  Edward  County,  Va.,  in  the  1840's.  He,  his  brother, 
Thomas,  also  a  builder,  and  Edward  T.  Rice,  who  specialized  in  brick  con- 
tracting, were  responsible  for  most  of  the  excellent  houses  built  in  Warren- 
ton and  Warren  County  prior  to  the  War  between  the  States. 

The  Major  Nat  Green  House  {private),  410  N.  Main  St.,  better  known 
as  the  Tasker  Polk  house,  is  a  three-story  brick  dwelling  built  in  1850.  Upon 
the  death  (1862)  of  William  H.  Polk,  brother  of  James  Knox  Polk,  nth 
President  of  the  United  States,  his  widow  returned  here  to  her  girlhood  home 
to  live;  Tasker  Polk  was  her  son.  The  house  is  (1939)  the  residence  of  Wil- 
liam T.  Polk,  short-story  writer  and  historian. 


TOUR    24  477 

The  Presbyterian  Church,  411  N.  Main  St.,  was  erected  in  1855  of  brick 
in  modified  Georgian  Colonial  style  for  a  congregation  organized  in  1827. 

The  Pendleton  Place  {private),  107  Ridgeway  St.,  a  two-story  frame 
house  with  a  large  garden,  holds  paintings  and  other  works  of  art.  The  house 
was  erected  before  1850. 

The  oldest  part  of  the  Doctor  Gloucester  House  (private),  209  Ridge- 
way St.,  was  built  by  a  Revolutionary  surgeon.  It  is  sometimes  called  the 
Captain  Brehon  house,  having  been  owned  for  a  time  by  a  wealthy  sea  cap- 
tain. The  main  two-story  section  has  Greek  Revival  details,  an  unusual 
stepped-arch  heading  above  the  first-story  windows,  and  lighthouses  painted 
on  the  windows.  In  1857-58  the  house  was  acquired  by  Capt.  and  Mrs. 
Thomas  M.  Crossan. 

Captain  Crossan  was  the  first  commander  of  the  State-owned  blockade 
runner,  Ad-Vance.  He  went  to  England  in  November  1862  with  John  White, 
State  agent  for  purchase  of  supplies  in  Europe  for  North  Carolina  troops,  and 
they  bought  the  Lord  Clyde,  "an  iron,  side-wheel  passenger  steamer." 
Crossan  had  it  outfitted  and  named  it  in  honor  of  Governor  Vance,  who 
referred  to  it  as  "an  elegant,  long-legged  vessel."  The  Ad-Vance  ran  the 
blockade  at  Wilmington  until  captured  in  September  1864. 

The  Captain  White  House  (private),  300  Halifax  St.,  is  a  two-story  frame 
dwelling  with  end  chimneys,  remodeled  in  1840.  Capt.  W.  J.  White  was  a 
son  of  John  White  and  served  as  quartermaster  of  the  1st  North  Carolina 
Cavalry  Regiment. 

The  Judge  John  Hall  Place  (private),  309  E.  Franklin  St.,  is  a  two- 
story  frame  house  shaded  by  magnificent  white  oaks.  Built  in  1810,  it  has 
been  continuously  occupied  by  lineal  descendants  of  the  original  owner. 
Judge  Hall  served  as  judge  of  superior  court  (1800-18),  Associate  Justice  of 
the  State  Supreme  Court  (1818-32),  and  also  conducted  a  law  school. 

The  Bragg  House  (private)  is  a  two-story  frame  structure  veneered  with 
brick.  It  was  erected  about  1800,  but  subsequently  remodeled.  This  was  the 
home  of  Thomas  Bragg,  contractor  and  builder,  and  his  wife,  Margaret  Cross- 
land.  Among  their  12  children  were  Thomas  Bragg,  who  became  Governor 
of  North  Carolina;  John  Bragg,  appointed  a  superior  court  judge  in  Ala- 
bama in  1842,  and  U.  S.  Congressman  (1851-53);  and  Braxton  Bragg  (1817- 
76),  a  captain  in  the  Mexican  War,  and  a  general  in  the  Confederate  Army. 
The  Warrenton  town  spring  was  named  Buena  Vista  Spring  in  commemora- 
tion of  Bragg's  participation  in  that  engagement  and  Fort  Bragg  (see 
tour  3A)  was  also  named  in  his  honor. 

Warrenton  is  at  the  junction  with  State  59  (see  tour  24A). 

NORLINA,  82  m.  (438  alt.,  761  pop.),  is  at  the  junction  with  US  1  (see 
tour  ya),  which  unites  with  US  158  between  this  point  and  HENDERSON,, 
97  m.  (513  alt.,  6,345  pop.)  (see  tour  ya). 

At  103  m.  are  a  Boulder  and  Tablet  to  John  Penn,  signer  of  the  Decla- 
ration of  Independence  from  North  Carolina,  whose  home  is  12  miles  from 


478  TOURS 

this  marker  (see  tour  8).  Between  Henderson  and  Oxford  US  158  is  desig- 
nated the  John  Penn  Highway. 

US  158  crosses  the  Trading  Path,  107  m.,  an  Indian  trail  and  traders' 
route  from  Virginia  to  South  Carolina.  Few  traces  of  it  remain. 

OXFORD,  108  m.  (476  alt.,  4,101  pop.)  (see  tour  8),  is  at  the  junction 
with  US  15  (see  tour  8). 

BEREA,  118  m.  (80  pop.),  is  a  farm  community. 

Right  from  Berea  on  an  unpaved  road  to  Goshen,  4  m.,  plantation  of  Gen.  Thomas 
Person  (1 733-1 800),  a  prominent  Revolutionary  leader  for  whom  Person  County  and 
Person  Hall  at  the  University  of  North  Carolina  were  named.  Although  he  was  an  alleged 
leader  of  the  Regulators  (see  tour  25),  he  escaped  with  a  brief  imprisonment  when  less 
affluent  agitators  were  hanged.  He  was  one  of  the  State's  leading  planters,  a  member  of 
all  five  Provincial  Congresses,  active  leader  of  the  Granville  delegation  during  his  17 
years  in  the  general  assembly,  and  was  elected  to  the  1784  Continental  Congress,  though 
he  did  not  serve.  He  was  a  charter  trustee  and  early  benefactor  of  the  university  (see 
chapel  hill). 

ROXBORO,  134  m.  (671  alt.,  3,657  pop.)  (see  tour  10),  is  at  the  junc- 
tion with  US  501  (see  tour  10). 

Section  b.  ROXBORO  to  MOCKSVILLE;  118  m.  US.  i58 

West  of  Roxboro  US  158  traverses  an  area  of  light  sandy  loam  which 
grows  a  high  grade  of  bright-leaf  tobacco. 

LEASBURG,  12  m.  (650  alt.,  200  pop.),  is  an  ante-bellum  town  with 
unpainted  houses  and  a  general  store  shaded  by  oaks  attributed  to  acorns 
brought  from  England  by  the  settlers.  Founded  in  1751  by  James  Lea,  the 
town  was  the  seat  of  Caswell  County  until  1791.  Capt.  John  G.  Lea  was  a 
Ku  Klux  Klan  leader  and  in  1870  was  said  to  have  been  a  member  of  the 
group  that  killed  J.  W.  Stephens  (see  tour  //). 

At  18  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  14  (see  tour  //)  which  unites  with 
US  158  between  this  point  and  24  m.  (see  tour  //). 

North  of  YANCEYVILLE,  22  m.  (619  alt.,  500  pop.)  (see  tour  //),  old 
homes,  built  by  slave  labor,  stand  back  from  the  highway  amid  their  shelter- 
ing trees. 

LOCUST  HILL,  30  m.  (700  alt.,  60  pop.),  a  village  in  the  hills  of 
Caswell,  is  named  for  locust  trees  in  the  vicinity.  Rose  Hill  (private),  in  the 
Locust  Hill  community,  is  the  two-story  clapboarded  frame  home  of  Bedford 
Brown,  U.  S.  Senator  (1829-40),  State  legislator,  and  opponent  of  secession 
in  i860. 

REIDSVILLE,  45  m.  (841  alt.,  6,851  pop.)  (see  tour  12),  is  at  the  junc- 
tion with  US  29  (see  tour  12). 

WENTWORTH,  53  m.  (850  alt.,  200  pop.),  the  hill-top  seat  of  Rocking- 
ham County,  is  a  one-street   village  with   a   modern   courthouse   and   jail 


TOUR     24  479 

flanked  by  old-fashioned  houses.  Town  and  county  were  named  for  Charles 
Watson  Wentworth,  Marquis  of  Rockingham,  a  leader  of  the  faction  that 
championed  the  cause  of  American  independence  in  the  British  Parliament. 

Settlers  were  mostly  English,  Irish,  German,  and  Scotch-Irish  people  from 
Virginia  and  other  Colonies  to  the  north.  Iron  deposits  were  worked  exten- 
sively in  the  early  days;  the  Troublesome  Iron  Works,  opened  in  1770  and 
named  for  a  nearby  stream,  was  probably  the  first  in  the  State. 

Southwest  of  STOKESDALE,  73  m.  (950  alt.,  238  pop.),  a  village  named 
for  John  Stokes,  a  Revolutionary  figure,  US  158  crosses  the  steep  foothills  of 
the  Sauratown  Mountains.  At  88  m.  is  the  junction  with  U.  S.  421  (see  tour 
25)  which  unites  with  US  158  between  this  point  and  Winston-Salem.  The 
bulk  of  Pilot  Mountain  looms  against  the  hazy  Blue  Ridge  in  the  distance 
(R). 

WINSTON-SALEM,  92  m.  (884  alt.,  75,274  pop.)  (see  winston-salem). 

Points  of  Interest:  Wachovia  Museum,  Brothers  House,  Home  Moravian  Church,  Salem 
College,  R.  J.  Reynolds  Tobacco  Plant,  and  others. 

Winston-Salem  is  at  the  junction  with  US  311  (see  tour  14),  US  421 
(see  tour  25),  and  US  52  (see  tour  15a). 

At  94  m.  US  158  passes  the  mill  village  of  HANES,  where  cotton  yarn 
used  in  making  men's  underwear  is  manufactured. 

CLEMMONS,  107  m.  (792  alt.,  65  pop.),  most  of  whose  residents  are 
employed  in  Winston-Salem,  was  founded  in  pre-Revolutionary  days  by 
Peter  Clemmons;  his  nephew,  Edmund  Clemmons,  established  a  fund  to 
build  a  secular  community.  Moravians  of  the  community  maintain  a  church 
and  an  adjoining  cemetery  containing  small,  flat  gravestones. 

A  bridge  spans  the  yellow  Yadkin  River  and  the  adjacent  bottom  lands, 
109  m.  Southwest  of  the  bridge  the  route  for  4  miles  traverses  Willsherr 
Lodge,  country  estate  of  S.  Clay  Williams,  tobacco-manufacturing  executive. 

MOCKSVILLE,  118  m.  (814  alt.,  1,503  pop.)  (see  tour  26b),  is  at  the 
junction  with  US  64  (see  tour  26b). 


TOUR       2_    4 


Warrenton — Louisburg;  State  59.  24  m. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

State  59  runs  through  comparatively  undeveloped  back  country  where  signs 
and  filling  stations  are  few. 

At  6  m.,  about  100  yards  to  the  L.  and  100  yards  south  of  a  pine  grove,  is 
the  unmarked  Site  of  Bute  County  Courthouse.  The  territory  between 
Warrenton  and  Louisburg,  including  all  of  what  is  now  Warren  and  Frank- 
lin Counties,  was  Bute  County,  formed  in  1746  and  named  for  John  Stuart, 
Earl  of  Bute,  first  lord  of  the  treasury  under  George  III.  So  intense  was  the 
patriotism  of  her  citizens  that  a  current  phrase  in  1775  was  "There  are  no 
Tories  in  Bute."  Because  of  the  unpopular  British  title,  the  general  assembly 
in  1778  erased  the  name  of  the  county,  and  the  courthouse  was  abandoned. 

In  a  thicket  (L)  at  8  m.  is  the  Grave  of  Gen.  Jethro  Sumner  (c.  1733- 
85),  member  of  the  provincial  council  in  August  1775,  who  distinguished 
himself  at  the  Battles  of  Stono,  McGowans  Creek,  and  Eutaw  Springs. 

At  10  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  sand-clay  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  JONES  (SHOCCO)  SPRING,  1.5  m.,  where  part  of  an  old  resort 
hotel  is  still  standing.  Built  about  1835,  this  hotel  often  accommodated  as  many  as  400 
guests  who  came  to  drink  the  sulphur  waters,  attend  the  lavish  balls,  and  play  billiards 
in  the  game  rooms.  Here  is  the  Site  of  St.  John's,  built  before  the  Revolution  as  the 
principal  chapel  of  the  Church  of  England  in  St.  John's  Parish.  Nathaniel  Macon  was  one 
of  the  wardens.  Although  the  church  was  abandoned  in  1776,  an  adjoining  cemetery 
remains.  Here  also  is  Montmorenci,  remains  of  the  plantation  manor  house  of  Gen. 
William  Williams,  usually  called  "Pretty  Billy"  to  distinguish  him  from  various  cousins 
of  the  same  name.  The  frame  house,  marked  by  delicate  detail,  was  built  for  the  general 
in  the  early  19th  century. 

At  11  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  sand-clay  road. 

Right  on  this  road,  concealed  in  a  grove  of  trees  is  a  Cemetery  (L),  0.5  m.,  contain- 
ing the  Grave  of  Annie  Carter  Lee,  daughter  of  Gen.  Robert  E.  Lee.  Born  in  1839,  she 
died  at  White  Sulphur  Springs,  a  health  resort  nearby,  at  the  age  of  23.  A  granite  mono- 
lith was  erected  over  the  grave  by  Warren  County  citizens  in  August  1886. 

At  16  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  narrow  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  an  unkempt  Cemetery,  2  m.,  containing  the  Grave  of  Matthew 
Dickinson  (1780-1809),  of  Somers,  Conn.,  first  preceptor  of  Franklin  Academy  at  Louis- 
burg (see  tour  ya).  His  tombstone  was  brought  from  Connecticut  in  1809  by  sailing  ship 
and  oxcart  to  this  remote  spot. 

480 


TOUR    24  A  481 

At  INGLESIDE,  19  m.,  is  the  Home  of  Fenton  Garland  (1837-85),  a 
printer  who  invented  one  of  the  first  practical  machines  for  setting  and  cast- 
ing metal  type. 

LOUISBURG,  24  m.  (226  alt.,  2,182  pop.)  {see  tour  ya). 


TOUR 


Durham — Winston-Salem — Wilkesboro — (Mountain  City,  Tenn.);  US  70, 
State  62,  54,  US  421. 
Durham-Tennessee  Line,  196  m. 

Southern  Ry.  parallels  the  route  between  Durham  and  Winston-Salem  and  intersects  at 

North  Wilkesboro. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  cities  and  larger  towns;  tourist  accommodations  along  route,  though  fewer   in 

the  western  section. 

West  of  DURHAM,  0  m.,  US  70  winds  through  a  gently  rolling  country 
of  woodlands  and  small  farms. 

The  Bennett  Memorial  (L),  5  m.,  composed  of  two  Corinthian  columns 
surmounted  with  an  entablature  inscribed  with  the  word  "Unity,"  marks  the 
site  of  the  surrender  of  Gen.  Joseph  E.  Johnston  to  Gen.  W.  T.  Sherman.  All 
that  remains  of  the  old  Bennett  house  where  the  negotiations  took  place  are 
the  vine-covered  field-stone  chimney  and  the  old  well  nearby. 

On  Apr.  26,  1865,  at  the  third  meeting  of  Generals  Johnston  and  Sherman 
to  discuss  terms  of  surrender,  a  "military  convention"  was  signed  under 
which  36,817  Confederate  soldiers  in  North  Carolina  and  52,453  in  Georgia 
and  Florida  laid  down  their  arms. 

The  route  crosses  the  Eno  River  at  6  m.  near  an  old  Occoneechee  Indian 
settlement,  of  which  no  traces  remain.  The  river  is  named  for  Eno  Will, 
who  served  as  guide  to  John  Lawson  in  1708  (see  new  bern). 

At  10.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  marked  dirt  old  Durham-Hillsboro 
Rd. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  Dickson  House  {private),  0.8  m.,  standing  on  a  hill  (R). 
The  remodeled  structure  is  two  stories  high,  two  small  rooms  wide,  with  ell  at  rear  and 
end  chimney  on  the  left.  The  exterior  is  covered  with  beaded  weatherboarding,  and  has 
paneled  and   louvered  shutters. 

Here  General  Johnston  spent  a  week  while  negotiating  with  Sherman.  Tradition  says 
that  Johnston  asked  for  a  piece  of  white  cloth  to  be  used  as  a  flag  of  truce.  Since  the 
house  afforded  none,  Alexander  Dickson  gave  his  only  shirt  for  the  purpose. 

The  ante-bellum  estate  (R),  Occoneechee  (private),  12.2  m.,  has  been 
remodeled  with  gables  and  circular  windows,  and  covered  with  shingles. 
The  date  1891  is  painted  on  the  roof  of  a  large  barn.  This  was  operated  as  a 
model  farm  by  Gen.  Julian  S.  Carr  until  his  death  in  1924  (see  Durham). 
A  shaded  path  along  the  riverbank,  known  as  the  Dark  Walk,  has  long 
been  popular  with  romantic  couples. 

482 


TOUR    25  483 

On  the  L.  is  the  slight  bulk  of  the  Occoneechee  Mountains  rising  some  300 
feet  above  the  countryside. 

HILLSBORO,  13  m.  (543  alt.,  1,232  pop.)  {see  tour  //),  is  at  the  junc- 
tion with  State  14  {see  tour  //). 

Several  decaying  buildings  in  an  oak  grove,  22  m.  (R),  mark  the  Site  of 
Bingham  School,  one  of  the  State's  earliest  military  academies.  Founded  in 
1793  by  the  Rev.  William  Bingham,  ancestor  of  Robert  W.  Bingham,  Ambas- 
sador to  the  Court  of  St.  James's  (1932-37),  the  school  was  conducted  in 
different  localities,  but  occupied  this  site  for  more  than  50  years.  In  1889  it 
was  removed  to  Asheville,  where  it  suspended  operations  in  1928. 

MEBANE,  23.3  m.  (678  alt.,  1,568  pop.),  industrial  and  tobacco-market 
town  and  trade  center  for  a  large  farm  area,  was  founded  in  1854  by  Frank 
Mebane. 

Flanking  the  highway  in  the  heart  of  the  town  are  (L)  the  tracks  of  the 
Southern  Ry.,  and  (R)  the  buildings  of  the  White  Furniture  Co.  Plant 
{open),  the  oldest  furniture  factory  in  North  Carolina.  In  1881  the  brothers 
David  A.  and  William  E.  White  set  up  a  small  plant  for  production  of 
spindles  from  dogwood.  Soon  after,  they  turned  to  the  manufacture  of  furni- 
ture and  the  factory  has  become  one  of  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  the  South. 
Other  manufactured  products  of  the  town  include  bedsprings,  mattresses, 
and  cotton  yarns.  The  annual  Six-County  Fair  is  held  at  Mebane  in  the  fall. 

At  28  m.  is  the  eastern  junction  with  State  62. 

HAW  RIVER,  29  m.  (537  alt.,  1,394  P°P-)>  a  textile-milling  center,  was 
named  for  its  bordering  stream  in  a  region  once  roamed  by  the  Haw  Indians. 
Adam  Trollinger,  a  German  immigrant,  settled  here  in  1747,  where  his  son, 
Jacob,  later  erected  a  gristmill.  For  many  years  known  as  Trollinger's  Ford, 
the  village  was  an  important  crossing  point  during  the  Revolutionary  War. 
In  1 88 1  a  power  dam  was  constructed  and  the  first  textile  mill  erected. 

At  Haw  River  is  the  western  junction  with  State  62,  now  the  route. 

At  29.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  junction  with  a  lane,  1  m. ;  0.8  m.  across  a  cornfield  is  the 
Trollinger  Tree.  Cornwallis  ordered  Jacob  Trollinger  tied  to  this  tree  with  a  bridle  bit 
in  his  mouth  when  Trollinger  became  abusive  over  the  British  raid  of  his  mill.  One  of 
Trollinger's  sons  went  to  Virginia  to  serve  in  a  powder  factory  and  the  other,  with  a 
Negro  body  servant,  was  sent  by  the  father  to  General  Washington  with  the  hope  that 
"both  together  would  make  one  good  soldier,"  neither  being  of  military  age. 

DIXONDALE  {private),  29.5  m.  (L),  is  the  former  home  of  Thomas 
M.  Holt,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1891-93).  This  weatherboarded 
house,  in  the  style  of  the  1880's,  has  bracketed  eaves  and  porches,  elaborate 
iron  cresting  along  the  roof  ridge,  and  broad  verandas  supported  by  carved 
wood  posts  of  varying  design. 

GRAHAM,  31  m.  (656  alt.,  2,972  pop.),  seat  of  Alamance  County,  is  a 
textile  center  connected  industrially  with  Haw  River  and  Burlington.  It  was 


484  TOURS 

established  in  1849  and  named  for  William  A.  Graham,  Governor  of  North 
Carolina  (1845-49),  wno  as  Secretary  of  the  Navy  (1850-53)  organized  Com- 
modore M.  C.  Perry's  expedition  to  Japan. 

Since  most  of  the  early  settlers  were  German,  some  claim  that  the  county's 
name  is  derived  from  Allemania.  Old  records  also  bear  the  spellings  of 
Alemanni  and  Alamanz.  Alamance,  like  Caswell  and  Orange  Counties,  was 
the  scene  of  activities  of  the  Ku  Klux  Klan  {see  tours  //  and  13). 

The  Alamance  County  Courthouse,  occupying  the  central  common,  was 
erected  in  1923.  It  is  a  stone  structure  of  neoclassic  architecture.  The  design 
of  the  columns  of  the  portico  is  based  upon  that  of  the  Tower  of  the  Winds 
in  Athens.  In  the  courthouse  hangs  an  oil  painting  of  the  Battle  of  Alamance 
by  C.  C.  and  Margaret  Thompson.  The  latter  is  a  lineal  descendant  of  Robert 
Thompson,  who,  while  negotiating  unarmed  for  a  peaceful  settlement,  was 
shot  down  by  Tryon.  In  front  of  the  courthouse  is  a  Confederate  Monu- 
ment, surmounted  with  the  figure  of  a  southern  infantryman. 

Left  from  Graham,  State  62  runs  through  an  area  known  as  STINKING  QUARTER, 
on  the  Stinking  Quarter  Creeks.  It  was  so  named  because  of  herds  of  buffalo  killed  by 
early  settlers  who  salvaged  the  skins  but  left  the  carcasses  to  decay. 

At  4  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  R.  2  m.  on  this  road  to  Indian  Tomb,  on 
the  south  slope  of  a  hillside  of  gray  rock.  Below  the  ledge  is  a  stone  table  within  which 
Indians  hewed  a  tomb  for  a  departed  chieftain.  Beside  the  stream,  towering  30  feet, 
is  Pix  Head  Rock  resembling  a  huge  reptile.  Within  the  tiered,  snakelike  body  are  two 
rock-lined  caves,  believed  to  be  a  tribal  ossuary  for  the  cleansed,  polished,  and  rejointed 
bones  of  great  chieftains. 

Northwest  of  Graham  on  State  54  is  BURLINGTON,  34  m.  (658  alt., 
9,737  pop.),  a  town  of  the  new  South.  In  1855,  when  the  first  train  was  run 
through,  the  settlement  of  six  families  was  known  as  Company  Shops.  In 
1887,  when  it  became  Burlington,  there  were  three  cotton  mills,  one  coffin 
factory,  and  a  few  smaller  plants.  The  first  hosiery  mill  was  established  in 
1896.  There  are  (1939)  26  hosiery  mills,  20  other  textile  mills,  and  30  mis- 
cellaneous mills.  Two  municipally  owned  tobacco  warehouses  are  leased  to 
private  operators. 

Burlington  is  at  the  junction  with  State  144,  which  unites  with  US  70 
between  this  point  and  36.5  m. 

Right  from  Burlington  on  paved  State  100  to  Elon  College,  3  m.  (717  alt.,  373 
pop.),  the  site  of  Elon  College,  established  in  1891,  operated  by  the  Christian  Church, 
with  an  enrollment  of  650  students.  The  brick  buildings  are  of  modified  Georgian  style. 
It  offers  preliminary  courses  in  dentistry,  medicine,  religious  education,  and  engineering, 
as  well  as  a  four-year  liberal  arts  course. 

A  Battle  of  Alamance  marker  is  at  36.5  m.,  beside  the  junction  with 
State  144. 

Left  on  State  144  to  Alamance  Creek  bridge  at  a  junction  with  a  dirt  road,  3.5  m. 
Here  is  the  old  Alamance  Cotton  Mill,  now  a  part  of  the  Standard  Hosiery  Mills 
(open);  the  part  nearest  the  creek  is  white  weatherboarded  and  that  nearest  the  road, 
brick.  Established  in  1837  by  Edwin  M.  Holt,  it  was  the  second  built  in  the  State.  The 
original  mill  had  528  spindles,  was  lighted  by  whale-oil  lamps,  and  produced  bunch 
yarn  in  5-pound  bundles.  In  1854  Holt's  son,  Thomas  M.  Holt,  Governor  of  North 
Carolina    (1891-93),    engaged    a    Frenchman    to    teach    him    to    color    yarns,    and    their 


TOUR    25  485 

Alamance  Plaids  were  the  first  colored-cotton  fabrics  produced  in  the  South   on  power 
looms. 

Right,  1.5  m.  from  Alamance  Creek  bridge  on  the  dirt  road  to  Huffmans  Mill,  a 
frame,  weatherboarded  structure  built  in  1771  on  the  bank  of  Back  Creek  by  Christian 
Huffman.  One  of  his  descendants  still  operates  the  mill  with  its  old  buhrstones  for  the 
many  patrons  who  believe  that  meal  so  ground  has  a  finer  quality  than  that  produced 
by  modern  rollers. 

At  7  m.  on  State  144  is  Alamance  Battleground,  where  on  May  16,  1771,  a  battle 
was  fought  between  a  group  of  citizens  known  as  the  Regulators  and  the  provincial 
militia  under  the  royal  Governor,  William  Tryon.  A  monument  erected  in  1880  com- 
memorates the  encounter,  regarded  by  some  as  the  first  of  the  American  Revolution. 

This  engagement  was  the  outgrowth  of  protests  by  large  groups  of  farmers  in  the 
Piedmont  section  against  what  was  claimed  to  be  unjust  taxation,  ruthless  methods  of 
collection,  and  the  imposition  of  illegal  fees  by  public  officers.  Their  petitions  to  the 
assembly  in  1768  urged  repeal  of  the  tax  laws  and  the  dismissal  of  officials  so  merciless 
that  they  would  sell  the  only  cow  or  horse  of  a  poor  family  to  satisfy  a  tax  levy  and  not 
even  return  the  surplus  due  the  owners.  The  complaints  stated  that  beds,  bedclothes,  and 
even  their  wives'  petticoats  were  being  seized. 

When  peaceful  petitions  were  ignored  or  dismissed,  the  issue  reached  a  violent  conclu- 
sion. Two  thousand  partly  armed  Regulators,  most  of  whom  did  not  expect  to  fight,  were 
defeated  by  the  Governor's  troops,  but  not  until  the  latter  had  suffered  heavy  casualties. 
Tryon  set  fire  to  the  woods  on  the  battlefield  and  several  wounded  Regulators  perished 
in  the  flames.  One  of  the  insurgent  leaders  was  hanged  on  the  field  and  14  others  were 
tried,  six  of  whom  were  hanged  at  Hillsboro  (see  tour  //). 

Between  42  m.  and  Greensboro  US  70  is  a  40-foot  highway. 

In  SEDALIA,  45  m.  (25  pop.),  is  a  group  of  red  brick  buildings  housing 
the  Alice  Freeman  Palmer  Memorial  Institute,  a  junior  college  and  high 
school  for  Negroes,  with  an  enrollment  of  250.  It  was  begun  in  1901  by 
Charlotte  Brown,  who  still  headed  the  institute  in  1939. 

Left  from  Sedalia  on  a  marked  dirt  road,  and  then  R.  up  the  lane  at  the  barn  to  the 
McLean  House  (open),  0.5  m.  It  was  erected  before  1767  by  John  McLean  and  his  wife, 
Jane  Marshall.  The  U-shaped  structure  is  of  poplar  logs  fastened  together  with  wooden 
pegs  and  covered  with  clapboards.  An  immense  chimney  with  a  fireplace  n  feet  wide 
occupies  the  west  end.  This  house  was  the  home  of  five  generations  of  the  McLean 
family  and  from  it  McLeans  went  out  to  serve  in  six  wars.  Col.  William  Washington  was 
here  in  the  spring  of  1781,  and  tradition  says  Cornwallis  plundered  it. 

At  the  County  Home,  53  m.,  is  the  junction  with  a  paved  road,  marked 
Huffine  Mill  Rd. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  junction  with  another  paved  road,  2  m. ;  R.  4.4  m.  on  this 
road  to  the  Rankin  House  (private),  at  the  confluence  of  North  and  South  Buffalo  Creeks. 
This  weatherboarded  house  with  stuccoed  end  chimney  was  built  about  1768  by  John 
and  William  Rankin  on  land  granted  them  by  the  Earl  of  Granville  in  1765.  Both  of  the 
brothers  took  part  in  the  Battle  of  Alamance,  and  William  was  one  of  those  excluded 
from  the  blanket  pardon  offered  participants  by  Governor  Tryon.  A  natural  stone  trough 
is  pointed  out  as  the  place  where  Cornwallis'  horse  fed  while  he  camped  here. 

GREENSBORO,  55  m.  (838  alt.,  53,569  pop.)  {see  greensboro). 

Points  of  Interest:  Jefferson  Standard  Building,  Greensboro  College,  Woman's  College 
of  the  University  of  North  Carolina,  Cone  Textile  Mills,  and  others. 

Greensboro  is  at  the  junction  with  US  29  {see  tour  12),  US  220  {see 
tour  13),  and  US  421  {see  tour  29). 


486  TOURS 

West  of  Greensboro,  US  421,  now  the  route,  is  known  as  the  Boone  Trail 
because  it  roughly  parallels  the  traditional  course  taken  by  Daniel  Boone 
from  the  plains  to  the  mountains. 

At  61  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  marked  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  is  Guilford  College,  1  m.  (939  alt.,  500  pop.),  settled  by  Quakers 
in  1750  and  called  New  Garden.  The  New  Garden  Boarding  School,  opened  by  the 
Friends  in  1837  to  avoid  a  school  "in  a  mixed  condition,"  grew  into  Guilford  College, 
incorporated  1889,  now  having  an  enrollment  of  300.  This  is  the  oldest  and  most  in- 
fluential Quaker  college  in  the  South,  though  no  longer  "Friends'  select."  The  shaded 
campus  and  athletic  field  occupy  30  of  its  290  acres. 

Unusual  for  the  day  in  which  it  was  founded,  the  school  has  always  been  coeduca- 
tional. However,  the  first  building,  Founders  Hall  (1834-37),  or-  hand-made  brick  and 
hand-hewn  timbers,  originally  had  three  entrances:  the  east  for  boys,  the  west  for  girls, 
and  the  center  for  teachers  and  visitors.  Singing  was  a  misdemeanor  in  boarding  school 
days  and  while  music  was  permitted  in  1887,  it  was  not  a  recognized  part  of  the  cur- 
riculum until  1894.  Dancing  was  forbidden  until   1933. 

During  the  Revolution  sick  and  wounded  soldiers  were  nursed  by  the  pacifist  Quakers, 
and  British  and  patriot  dead  were  buried  side  by  side  in  great  square  graves.  The  school 
was  kept  open  during  the  War  between  the  States  and  the  Reconstruction  period,  though 
many  Quaker  boys  had  to  flee  through  the  lines  to  escape  conscription  at  Greensboro. 
Baskets  of  food  hung  in  the  log  barn  behind  the  school  farmhouse  for  passing  Unionist, 
Secessionist,  or  bushwhacker,  all  alike  hungry  men  to  the   Quakers. 

The  Library  (1909)  is  a  red  brick  building  with  classic  portico  and  high  arched 
windows.  In  its  collection  of  17,628  volumes  is  a  first  edition  of  George  Fox's  Journal. 
Memorial  (Science)  Hall  (1897),  in  memory  of  Mary  Elizabeth  Lyon,  was  given  by 
her  brothers,  Benjamin  and  James  B.  Duke;  all  three  were  students  in  the  1870's. 

The  New  Garden  Meetinghouse,  erected  in  1912  to  accommodate  the  sessions  of  the 
North  Carolina  Yearly  Meeting  of  Friends,  is  the  college  chapel.  The  first  meetinghouse, 
a  weatherboarded  building,  was  erected  in  1751. 

Nathanael  Greene  was  disowned  by  his  sect  for  bearing  arms,  yet  in  the  meetinghouse 
yard  is  the  Grave  of  William  Armfield,  a  good  Quaker  who,  incensed  over  Cornwallis' 
destruction  of  his  crops,  took  his  squirrel  gun  and  departed  ostensibly  to  hunt.  He  joined 
the  Revolutionary  forces  at  the  courthouse  and  fought  all  day.  Upon  his  return  his  family 
inquired  about  his  game  and  he  replied  that  "it  wasn't  worth  bringing  home." 

Right  from  Guilford  College  on  the  Battleground  Rd.  to  the  David  Hodgin  farm, 
2  m.,  containing  the  Site  of  the  Birthplace  of  Joseph  E.  Cannon,  Speaker  of  the 
House  of  Representatives  (1901-11).  While  he  was  a  Congressman  from  Illinois,  "Uncle 
Joe"  twice  visited  the  place.  The  story  is  that  when  the  old  log  house  was  pointed  out 
as  his  birthplace,  he  remarked,  "I'll  be  damned!  Let's  go."  However,  he  later  had  perma- 
nent record  made  of  his  birth  at  New  Garden. 

Right  from  Guilford  College  on  Friendly  Rd.  to  the  Dolly  Madison  Well,  0.5  m., 
site  of  the  birthplace  of  Dolly  Payne  Madison.  John  and  Mary  (Coles)  Payne  removed 
on  certificate  from  Cedar  Creek  Monthly  Meeting  in  Virginia  to  New  Garden  Monthly 
Meeting  in  1765.  In  a  house  that  once  stood  here  "Dolley  their  Daughter  was  born  ye 
20  of  ye  5  mo.  1768"  The  Paynes  returned  to  Virginia  in  1769. 

At  2  m.  on  the  Friendly  Rd.  is  the  Site  of  the  Caldwell  Home  and  Log  College. 
Dr.  David  Caldwell,  minister,  physician,  and  teacher,  came  to  North  Carolina  in  1765  as 
a  Presbyterian  missionary  to  the  Alamance  and  Buffalo  congregations  (see  Greens- 
boro). In  1767  he  opened  his  classical  school  for  boys.  He  interceded  with  both  Tryon 
and  the  Regulators  for  peaceful  settlement  of  their  difficulties.  So  ardent  a  patriot  did  he 
become  that  Cornwallis  offered  ,£200  for  his  capture,  and  when  encamped  on  Caldwell's 
farm  he  ravaged  it  even  to  the  precious  library  and  family  Bible.  Caldwell  was  a  member 
of  the  State  constitutional  convention  in  1776,  and  in  the  Hillsboro  convention  of  1788 
he  opposed  ratification  of  the  Federal  Constitution  mainly  because  it  lacked  a  religious 
test.  He  was  tendered  the  presidency  of  the  University  of  North  Carolina  at  its  formation 


TOUR    25  487 

but  declined  because  of  his  advanced  age,  though  he  subsequently  taught  and  preached 
until  1820. 

The  Lindley  Nurseries,  Inc.,  64  m.  (600  acres),  was  begun  in  1877  by 
J.  Van  Lindley  to  develop  shrubs  and  trees  suited  to  North  Carolina. 

At  FRIENDSHIP,  65  m.  (893  alt.,  100  pop.),  is  Lindley  Field  (sched- 
uled service  by  Eastern  Air  Lines),  tri-city  airport  serving  Greensboro, 
Winston-Salem,  and  High  Point.  In  addition  to  the  hangars,  a  low  white 
building  in  contemporaneous  style  houses  the  airport  offices  and  a  station 
of  the  U.  S.  Weather  Bureau. 

KERNERSVILLE,  73  m.  (1,023  alL>  r>754  P°P-)>  a  town  with  a  few 
small  mills,  has  changed  little  since  it  was  settled  by  families  of  German 
extraction  about  1770.  According  to  tradition,  about  1756  Caleb  Story  bought 
the  400-acre  town  site  outright  at  the  rate  of  a  gallon  of  rum  for  100  acres. 

A  marker  at  the  Salem  Street  intersection  on  the  highway  indicates  the 
Site  of  Dobson's  Tavern.  George  Washington  breakfasted  here  June  2, 
1791,  according  to  his  diary:  "In  company  with  Govr.  I  set  out  for  Guilford 
by  four  o'clock — breakfasted  at  one  Dobson's  at  the  distance  of  11  m.  from 
Salem." 

An  architectural  curiosity  of  elaborate  and  fantastic  design  is  Korner's 
Folly  (open  9-6;  adm.  adults  ^.o(-,  children  25$),  half  a  mile  L.  from  US  421 
on  Salem  St.  The  three-story,  22-room  brick  residence  was  built  in  1880  by 
J.  Gilmer  Korner,  artist  and  traveler.  The  sharp-pitched  roof,  covered  with 
shingles  said  to  have  been  cut  fom  a  single  tree,  is  broken  by  numerous  tall 
chimneys.  The  facade  has  recessed  arches  and  narrow  windows.  Caesar 
Milch,  a  German  artist,  did  the  frescoes,  using  themes  suggested  by  some  of 
Rubens'  paintings.  The  rooms  on  the  lower  floor  have  silk-paneled  walls, 
marble  floors,  and  profusely  carved  woodwork.  No  two  doors  are  of  the  same 
dimensions,  but  all  those  on  the  first  floor  reach  the  ceiling.  Narrow  stairways 
appear  in  unexpected  places.  The  third-floor  music  room  was  once  used  as  a 
little  theater.  Mrs.  Korner  wrote  plays  performed  there  by  local  talent  and 
Mr.  Korner  painted  the  scenery,  some  of  which  is  displayed  to  visitors.  A 
leaflet  explains  that  Mr.  Korner  "traveled  widely,  painting  everywhere,  even 
upon  the  Rock  of  Gibraltar,  the  male  bovine  symbol  so  synonymous  with  the 
'roll-your-own'  product  of  a  great  tobacco  company." 

Right  from  Kernersville  on  State  703  are  several  interesting  houses,  most  notable  of 
which  is  (R)  the  Benbow  House  (private),  5  m.,  a  two-story  brick  structure  erected  in 
1823  by  Charles  Benbow,  member  of  a  Quaker  family  that  came  from  Bladen  County. 
The  former  rear  of  the  two-story  brick  house  faces  the  present  road.  The  gabled  roof  of 
the  main  structure  is  broken  by  two  end  chimneys;  at  one  side  is  a  gabled  one-story  service 
wing;  on  the  front  is  a  broad  two-story  porch.  The  interior  woodwork — a  reeded  mantel, 
the  door  trim,  and  the  chair  rails — evidences  skillful  workmanship.  Behind  the  house  is 
a  small  frame  building  used  until  a  few  years  ago  as  a  clubhouse  by  students  of  Oak  Ridge 
Military  Institute. 

On  State  703  is  OAK  RIDGE,  6  m.  (885  alt.,  400  pop.),  seat  of  Oak  Ridge  Military 
Institute,  occupying  several  brick  buildings  with  stuccoed  white  columns.  Founded  in 
1852,  the  school  has  operated  without  interruption  except  during  the  War  between  the 
States. 


400  TOURS 

At  80  m.  is  the  eastern  junction  with  US  158  (see  tour  24b)  which  unites 
with  US  421  between  this  point  and  Winston-Salem. 

WINSTON-SALEM,  84  m.  (884  alt.,  75,274  pop.)  (see  winston-salem). 

Points  of  Interest:  Wachovia  Museum,  Brothers  House,  Home  Moravian  Church,  Salem 
College,  R.  J.  Reynolds  Tobacco  Plant,  and  others. 

Winston-Salem  is  at  the  junction  with  US  158  (see  tottr  24b),  US  311 
(see  tour  14),  and  US  52  (see  tour  75). 

West  of  Winston-Salem  US  421  is  bordered  on  both  sides  by  sugar  maples 
and  thick  hedges.  The  avenue  marks  the  boundary  of  the  R.  J.  Reynolds 
estate,  Reynolda  (private}.  The  mansion,  in  a  dense  grove  of  trees,  is  not 
visible  from  the  highway.  On  the  estate  are  a  private  golf  course,  a  lake,  and 
gardens  of  various  types.  Opposite  the  second  entrance,  which  leads  to  the 
administration  buildings  and  post  office,  is  Reynolda  village  for  employees 
of  the  estate. 

At  86.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  paved  road  marked  Oldtown. 

Right  on  this  road  to  Bethabara  (beth-"a'b'-ara,  Heb.,  house  of  passage),  2.5  m.  (57 
pop.),  better  known  as  Oldtown,  as  it  was  the  first  (1753)  Moravian  settlement  in  North 
Carolina  {see  winston-salem).  All  that  remains  of  this  once-thriving  communal  settle- 
ment are  a  few  houses  and  the  old  church.  Two  of  the  houses  antedate  the  church. 

Bethabara  Church  {open;  inquire  at  house  across  road),  built  in  1788,  has  2-foot-thick 
fieldstone  walls  plastered  over.  The  one-and-a-half-story  structure  is  built  in  two  sections, 
the  higher  section  having  an  octagonal  tower  and  steeple.  At  the  rear  of  the  auditorium 
a  narrow  stair  leads  to  upper  rooms  and  the  sturdy  belfry  with  the  original  mellow- 
toned  bell.  Comprising  the  right  side  of  the  building  are  four  rooms  originally  used  as 
living  quarters  for  the  minister  and  his  family.  Worn  stone  steps  wind  down  to  a  vaulted 
cellar. 

At  the  corner  of  the  church  a  marker  indicates  the  Site  of  the  Cabin  in  which  the 
first  settlers  lived  until  they  could  build  houses  of  their  own. 

Atop  a  low  hill  behind  the  church  in  the  Oldest  Moravian  Graveyard  in  North 
Carolina  are  stones  dated  1754.  The  first  Moravian  Easter  Sunrise  Service  in  North  Caro- 
line was  held  at  Bethabara  in    1758. 

In  the  churchyard  a  huge  millstone  with  a  bronze  plaque  marks  the  Site  of  Bethabara 
Fort  (1756),  and  posts  inscribed  F  indicate  the  Outlines  of  the  Stockade  that  enclosed 
the  principal  houses  of  the  village.  The  fort  was  a  place  of  refuge  for  settlers  of  the  region 
during  the  French  and  Indian  War.  Another  marker  identifies  the  Site  of  the  Old 
Tavern. 

At  90  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  67. 

Right  on  State  67  to  the  junction  with  a  paved  road  at  Oldtown  School,  1.5  m. ;  R. 
1  m.  on  this  road  to  BETHANIA  (789  alt.,  100  pop.),  formerly  called  New  Town,  site 
of  the  second  Moravian  settlement  in  North  Carolina  (1759),  established  by  dissenters 
from  Bethabara  who  objected  to  communal  government. 

The  Bethania  Church  (1807),  of  large,  hand-made  bricks,  with  a  hooded  entrance 
and  an  open-roof  cupola,  is  similar  to  the  Home  Church  in  Winston-Salem.  The  single- 
manual  pipe  organ  was  built  by  hand  in  1773  by  Joseph  Bullitschek,  a  cabinet  maker  who 
also  had  built  organs  for  Bethabara  and  Salem. 

During  the  time  that  Bullitschek  was  the  official  organist  he  was  annoyed  by  Dr. 
Schumann,  the  local  physician,  who  often  went  early  to  church  to  play  the  organ.  Bul- 
litschek finally  reversed  the  pipes,  without  Schumann's  knowledge.  The  doctor's  discords 
so  distressed  him  that  Bullitschek  was  no  longer  disturbed. 


TOUR    25  489 

A  marker  indicates  the  Site  of  Cornwallis'  Headquarters  where  he  spent  a  night  in 
Bethania,  Mar.  16,  1781.  He  destroyed  much  property  and  held  the  minister,  Ernst,  as 
hostage  until  all  the  best  horses  had  been  delivered  to  him.  Bethania's  small  mills  and 
stores  ceased  operations  when  Gen.  George  Stoneman  plundered  the  place  on  Apr.  1,  1865. 

At  14.8  m.  on  State  67  is  the  junction  with  a  paved  road;  R.  0.5  m.  on  this  road  to 
the  junction  with  a  sand-clay  road;  L.  1.5  m.  on  the  sand-clay  road  to  the  junction  with 
a  dirt  road  just  before  reaching  Richmond  Hill  Church;  R.  0.3  m.  on  the  dirt  road  to  a 
lane;  L.  1.2  m.  (as  far  as  passable)  on  the  lane;  through  fields  about  2  m.  to  Richmond 
Hill  (private),  the  home  and  school  operated  here  from  1847  until  his  death  in  1878 
by  Richmond  Pearson,  teacher  and  Chief  Justice  of  the  State  Supreme  Court.  The  large, 
square,  porchless  brick  house  is  decaying  in  grounds  overgrown  with  brush.  Of  the  1,000 
students  who  read  law  under  his  direction,  Thomas  Settle,  David  Reid,  W.  B.  Rodman, 
W.  P.  Bynum,  and  R.  P.  Dick  became  justices  of  the  State  Supreme  Court.  Another  stu- 
dent, James  Hobson,  married  Sallie,  Judge  Pearson's  third  daughter;  their  son,  Richmond 
Pearson  Hobson,  sank  the  Merrimac  in  Santiago  Harbor,  during  the  Spanish-American 
War.  The  judge's  only  son,  Richmond  Pearson,  served  as  Minister  to  Persia  and  Greece 
(1902-9). 

The  route  crosses  the  Yadkin  River,  95  m.,  over  a  high  bridge.  Here  a 
marker  relates  that  at  Shallow  Ford,  5  miles  south,  Whigs  defeated  Tories 
in  1780  and  Cornwallis'  army  passed  that  way  in  1781.  YADKIN  VALLEY 
BEACH  {picnic  sites)  is  on  the  river  shore  at  the  R.  of  the  bridge. 

At  100  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  Glennwood  (private),  0.8  m.,  a  well-preserved  two-story  clap- 
boarded  mansion  with  Greek  Doric  portico  built  in  the  1830's  by  Tyre  Glenn  on  an 
estate  of  6,000  acres  and  continuously  occupied  by  his  descendants.  The  hand-made 
cherry  doors  are  pegged.  The  brick  summer  kitchen  has  a  large  chimney  and  fireplace, 
and  one  remaining  slave  cabin,  called  the  "boys'  house,"  is  now  a  toolroom.  Several 
pieces  of  furniture,  hand-made  by  slaves  and  still  in  use,  survived  raids  by  disbanded 
Union  soldiers  and  freed  slaves.  The  older  house,  in  which  the  Glenns  lived  while  the 
mansion  was  being  built,  has  been  remodeled. 

YADKIN VILLE,  112  m.  (1,050  alt.,  590  pop.),  seat  of  Yadkin  County, 
was  formed  in  1805  from  Surry  and  named  for  the  river  that  forms  its 
northern  and  eastern  boundaries.  The  Yadkin  County  Courthouse  (1855) 
has  red-painted  brick  walls  marked  by  stuccoed  white  pilasters  without  bases 
and  stark  white  window  frames.  The  spacious  fireplaces  are  still  in  use,  but 
the  buckets  for  drinking  water  have  been  replaced  by  a  more  sanitary  system. 
On  the  courthouse  square  is  a  Boone  Trail  marker. 

The  D.  A.  Reynolds  Basket  Plant  {open),  the  only  factory  in  the  State 
that  manufactures  tobacco  baskets,  turns  out  50,000  of  the  shallow  containers 
in  the  six  or  seven  months  of  annual  production. 

BROOKS  CROSSROADS,  119  m.  (1,072  alt.),  is  at  the  junction  with 
US  21  {see  tour  16). 

At  126  m.  the  highway  begins  to  leave  the  flat  country.  Far  to  the  north 
is  the  Yadkin  Valley,  and  the  Brushy  Mountains  rise  to  the  south. 

At  134.2  m.  US  421  skirts  a  ridge  in  the  upper  reaches  of  Hunting  Creek 
Valley  (L). 


490  TOURS 

NORTH  WILKESBORO,  142  m.  (1,016  alt.,  3,668  pop.)  (see  tour  17), 
is  at  the  junction  with  State  16-18  (see  tour  iy). 

At  151  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  marked  improved  motor  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  Rendezvous  Mountain  State  Park,  2.5  m.  (2,480  alt.  at  high- 
est point),  a  142-acre  tract  on  a  spur  of  the  Blue  Ridge  between  Reddies  River  and  Lewis 
Fork  Creek.  The  park  (camping  and  picnicking  sites)  was  presented  to  the  State  in  1926 
by  Judge  Thomas  B.  Finley  in  trust  for  the  Daughters  of  the  American  Revolution.  A 
bronze  marker  commemorates  the  Wilkes  County  patriots  drilled  here  by  Col.  Benjamin 
Cleveland  (see  tour  ij)  to  suppress  the  Indians  and  fight  the  British  at  Kings  Mountain 
(see  tour  31c). 

At  152  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  Parsonville  Rd. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  Cleveland  Cabin  (unoccupied),  1.5  m.,  a  two-story,  two- 
room-wide  log  house  with  huge  stone  end  chimneys.  This  was  the  home  of  Capt.  Robert 
Cleveland,  who  was  wounded  in  the  Battle  of  Kings  Mountain,  to  which  he  had  marched 
with  his  brother  Benjamin  (see  tour  17).  The  house,  in  an  old  apple  orchard,  has  fallen 
into  disrepair,  but  plans  have  been  made  (1939)  to  restore  it.  Captain  Cleveland  is  buried 
with  other  members  of  his  family  in  a  fenced  enclosure  in  an  open  field  nearby. 

The  Wade  Harris  Bridge  (marked),  160.5  m.,  was  named  for  the  editor 
(d.  1936)  of  the  Charlotte  Observer.  The  bridge  is  290  feet  long  and  106  feet 
above  the  bottom  of  the  gorge. 

DEEP  GAP,  169  m.  (3,131  alt.,  200  pop.),  is  a  pass  used  by  Daniel  Boone 
to  cross  the  Blue  Ridge  into  the  wilderness  beyond.  The  route  of  the  Blue 
Ridge  Parkway  passes  through  this  gap. 

Left  of  Grand  View,  173  m.  (3,384  alt.),  is  a  bowl-shaped  gorge  with 
spruce  and  fir  outstanding  among  the  trees  thickly  covering  its  walls;  beyond 
the  gorge  Jiggs  and  Dugger  Mountains  rise  against  the  billowing  Blue 
Ridge. 

At  174.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  Browns  Chapel  Rd. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  Boone  State  Fish  Hatchery,  0.5  m.,  that  propagates  brown, 
brook,  and  rainbow  trout. 

The  Three  Forks  Baptist  Church  (L),  177.5  m.,  is  a  small  white 
weatherboarded  structure  with  square  tower.  Daniel  Boone's  name  is  on  the 
church's  rolls  though  some  historians  assert  Boone  was  not  a  church  member. 

BOONE,  180  m.  (3,334  alt.,  1,295  P°P-)  (see  TOUR  *$)>  1S  at  the  junction 
with  US  221  (see  tour  18). 

RICH  MOUNTAIN  GAP,  184  m.  (3,642  alt.),  affords  a  wide  view  of 
rolling  grazing  land. 

The  old  gristmill  (R)  with  wheel  intact,  185.5  m.,  has  stood  idle  since 
about  1920. 

VILAS,  186  m.  (2,811  alt.,  75  pop.),  a  settlement  with  a  small  cheese 
factory,  is  at  the  junction  with  State  194  (see  tour  20). 


TOUR    25  491 

SUGAR  GROVE,  188  m.  (2,775  ^K..,  215  pop.),  named  for  the  sugar 
maples  growing  here,  is  the  center  of  a  cheese-making  section.  The  Sugar 
Grove  post  office  was  established  in  March  1837,  when  John  Mast,  first  post- 
master, reported  revenues  totaling  $14  a  year.  Of  the  16  who  have  served  as 
postmasters  during  the  century,  12  were  members  of  the  Mast  family,  in- 
cluding the  incumbent  V.  B.  Mast  (1939). 

ZIONVILLE,  195  m.  (3,159  alt.,  138  pop.),  a  mountain  village,  contains 
a  Boone  marker. 

US  421  crosses  the  Tennessee  Line  at  196  m.,  11  miles  south  of  Mountain 
City,  Tenn.  {see  tenn.  tour  iA). 


TOUR       2.    6 


Fort  Landing  —  Raleigh  —  Hickory  —  Hendersonville — Franklin —  (Duck- 
town,  Tenn.);  US  64,  70-64,  64. 
Fort  Landing — Tennessee  Line,  613  m. 

Norfolk   Southern  R.R.   parallels   route   between   Columbia   and   Plymouth,   and   between 

Zebulon  and   Raleigh;   Atlantic   Coast  Line   R.R.   between  Plymouth  and   Spring  Hope; 

Southern  Ry.   between  Raleigh  and   Cary,  Statesville   and  Old  Fort,  Hendersonville  and 

Lake  Toxaway;  Seaboard  Air  Line  RR.  between  Raleigh  and  Cary. 

Roadbed  graded  between  Fort  Landing  and  Columbia;  improved  between  Old  Fort  and 

Bat  Cave;  remainder  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  cities  and  towns;  boarding  houses,  tourist  homes,  and  tourist  camps  along  the 

route. 

Section  a.  FORT  LANDING  to  RALEIGH;  174  m.  US  64 

This  route  passes  through  the  flat  and  swampy  lowlands  of  the  Tidewater 
and  the  level  terrain  of  the  Coastal  Plain.  In  the  easternmost  section,  settle- 
ments are  small  and  far  apart  and  the  forests,  rivers,  and  marshes  abound 
with  game  and  fish.  Nearing  the  industrial  Piedmont,  the  route  passes 
through  the  tobacco  belt. 

FORT  LANDING,  0  m.  (310  pop.),  a  fishing  village  on  the  Little  Alli- 
gator River,  is  believed  to  be  the  oldest  settlement  in  Tyrrell  County.  It  was 
named  for  the  old  fort  that  protected  the  settlement  in  Colonial  times.  Logs 
of  the  fort  are  visible  about  150  feet  from  the  shore  at  low  tide.  A  12-foot 
canal,  branching  out  from  the  river  pier  and  extending  10  miles  inland,  car- 
ries the  run-off  from  the  swampland. 

At  Fort  Landing  is  the  ferry  to  East  Lake  (car  and  driver,  75<?,  extra  passengers  io^; 
ferry  leaves  at  7:30  a.m.,  12  m.  and  4  p.m.;  return  trips  at  8:30  a.m.,  2  p.m.  and  5 
p.m.  Crossing  time,  50  min.).  The  ferry  runs  down  the  Little  Alligator  River,  passing 
GREAT  ISLAND  (L),  1.5  m.,  and  several  uninhabited,  wooded  islands  at  3.5  m.  (L). 
At  4  m.  the  ferry  crosses  the  bar  of  the  Little  Alligator  River  between  LONG  SHOAL 
POINT  (L)  and  SANDY  POINT  (R).  Long  Shoal  Point  forms  a  shoal  across  the 
Alligator  River  to  the  channel  of  the  Intracoastal  Waterway.  Marsh  grass  grows  in  pro- 
fusion and  swans  and  geese  feed  here  during  the  winter. 

Alligator  River  was  so  named  because  alligators  are  found  in  its  waters.  On  the  L.  is 
ATKINSONS  (DURANT)  ISLAND  on  GREAT  SHOALS.  With  its  trees  and  under- 
growth, the  island  resembles  a  sailboat.  Clubhouses  and  hunting  lodges  are  maintained 
in  the  vicinity. 

EAST  LAKE,  7  m.  (200  pop.),  on  Alligator  River,  includes  three  communities: 
Buffalo  City,  Twiford  Neighborhood,  and  Lake  Neighborhood.  The  first  is  the  center 
of  lumbering  operations,  the  second  is  engaged  in  fishing  and  farming,  and  the  third  is 
a  shipping  point.  A  well-known  product  of  the  section  is  its  moonshine  whisky,  commonly 
called  East  Lake  Corn. 

492 


TOUR    2  6  493 

East  of  East  Lake  a  graded  dirt  road  runs  through  a  changing  countryside  of  peaty 
swamplands,  forests,  and  farm  lands.  In  this  region  the  chief  occupations  are  fishing  and 
lumbering.  A  canal  parallels  the  road  almost  all  of  the  14  miles  to  Manns  Harbor. 

At  10.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road  {impassable  in  wet  weather}. 

Right  1.9  m.  on  this  road  to  BUFFALO  CITY  (100  pop.),  on  Milltail  Creek  (boats 
and  guides  available  for  a  5-mile  trip  up  Milltail  Cree\  to  Beechland),  5  miles  west  of 
Beechland,  a  once-prosperous  community  that  is  now  a  deserted  wilderness.  The  place 
was  abandoned  before  i860;  it  is  not  known  when  the  first  settlers  came  or  when  the 
survivors  departed.  Tradition  relates,  however,  that  at  the  peak  of  prosperity  some  200 
white  residents  occupied  more  than  5,000  acres  and  worked  many  slaves  on  their  planta- 
tions. They  built  a  7-mile  bridge  of  logs  to  Long  Shoals  Bay,  and  dug  a  2-mile  canal  to 
Milltail  Creek,  down  which  shingles  were  floated  to  be  loaded  on  ships  coming  up  the 
Alligator  River.  Their  products  were  shipped  to  the  West  Indies,  there  traded  for  rum, 
molasses,  and  other  commodities.  It  is  believed  that  sailors  brought  cholera  to  the  com- 
munity. Within  a  short  time  all  but  a  few  inhabitants  were  dead;  the  survivors,  fearful 
for  their  own  lives,  abandoned  the  settlement.  Vestiges  of  the  log  bridge,  canal,  the 
roads,  and  numerous  gravestones,  hidden  in  underbrush,  are  all  that  remain. 

MANNS  HARBOR,  21  m.  (5  alt.,  280  pop.),  sometimes  called  Croatan  because  of  a 
legend  that  the  Lost  Colony  took  refuge  here,  is  a  little  village  with  a  church,  a  school, 
a  sawmill,  and  a  few  houses  that  are  all  owned  by  their  occupants.  Fish  houses  flank  the 
river  docks. 

At  Manns  Harbor  is  a  ferry  to  Roanoke  Island  (car  and  driver,  50$,  passengers,  lorf; 
feiry  leaves  at  7:30  and  every  1  Vi  hrs.  thereafter  until  6:30  p.m.  The  ferry  leaves  Roanoke 
Island  at  7  a.m.  and  every  il/i  hrs.  thereafter  until  5:30  p.m.  Crossing  time,  30  minutes). 

Crossing  Croatan  Sound  the  ferry  passes  Croatan  Light,  which  is  equipped  with  auto- 
matic beam  and  fog  horn.  Midway  of  the  crossing  is  a  view  of  the  sand  dunes  on  the 
outer  reef  of  Roanoke  Island,  the  cottage  lines  dominated  by  Kill  Devil  Hill  and  the 
Wright  Memorial.  Tawny  Pamlico  Sound  appears  on  the  south,  blue  Albemarle  Sound 
on  the  north. 

The  ferry  docks  at  CROATAN  SOUND,  25  m.;  R.  from  Croatan  Sound  on  a  dirt 
road  to  the  junction  with  State  345,  26.2  m.  (see  tour  iA). 

West  of  Fort  Landing  US  64,  a  graveled  road,  runs  through  long  stretches 
of  forest,  some  of  which  have  been  cut  over.  Within  a  few  miles  of  Columbia 
are  fields  planted  with  potatoes. 

COLUMBIA,  15  m.  (12  alt.,  864  pop.),  seat  of  Tyrrell  County,  is  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  Scuppernong  River,  6  miles  south  of  Albemarle  Sound. 
Marked  contrasts  exist  in  this  ancient  town  where  old  and  new  houses  stand 
side  by  side.  During  the  potato  season  the  community  is  alive  with  activity 
but  at  other  times  there  is  ample  leisure. 

This  section  was  once  the  home  of  King  Blunt,  a  powerful  Tuscarora 
chief  who  was  friendly  with  the  English.  Columbia  was  first  a  trading  post 
known  as  Shallops  Landing.  As  early  as  1680  Capt.  Thomas  Miller  and 
Col.  Joshua  Tarkenton  came  up  the  Scuppernong  on  an  exploring  expedition 
and  were  so  pleased  with  the  country  that  they  called  it  Heart's  Delight.  In 
1800  the  town  was  known  as  Elizabeth,  but  10  years  later  the  name  was 
changed  to  Columbia  to  honor  Christopher  Columbus. 

The  Tyrrell  County  Courthouse,  built  in  1903,  succeeds  a  courthouse 
built  in  1748  on  Kendricks  (now  Mackeys)  Creek,  and  a  second  one  built 
on  J.  Pinner's  "Colonial  Farm"  in  1798.  The  site  of  the  present  building 
was  sold  to  the  county  by  Thomas  Hoskins  and  Zebedee  Hassell  in  1800. 
Records  begin  in  1736. 


494  tours 

Among  the  documents  in  the  courthouse  is  a  letter  to  Governor  Caswell 
from  Joseph  Hewes  {see  edenton),  stating  that  Tyrrell  and  Perquimans 
Counties  sent  the  first  Revolutionary  volunteers  from  the  Albemarle  section. 
During  the  War  between  the  States,  Mary  L.  Ambrose,  with  a  Negro  boy 
as  her  only  companion,  penetrated  the  Union  lines  on  horseback  with  $5,000 
in  cash  strapped  about  her  waist  and  succeeded  in  delivering  the  money  to 
the  Confederates  near  Tarboro. 

Tyrrell  County  was  a  part  of  the  original  land  grant  to  one  of  the  Lords 
Proprietors,  Anthony  Ashley  Cooper,  afterwards  third  Earl  of  Shaftesbury. 
It  has  the  smallest  population  (5,164)  of  any  county  in  North  Carolina. 

The  streams  and  lakes  near  Columbia  contain  herring  (North  Carolina 
robin),  rock,  shad,  perch,  catfish,  and  mullet  in  large  quantities.  It  is  said 
that  anyone  who  eats  a  fish  caught  under  the  Scuppernong  River  bridge  will 
ever  after  wish  to  make  his  home  in  the  neighborhood. 

1.  Right  from  Columbia  on  a  dirt  road  is  Carawan  Farm,  4  m.,  to  which  Thomas 
Alexander  fled  with  the  county  records  when  Union  troops  marched  on  Columbia.  An 
old  colored  mammy,  Aunt  Anna,  hid  them  under  her  bed  in  the  slave  quarters.  The 
big  house  was  ransacked  but  she  met  the  searching  party  with  a  deluge  of  boiling 
water  from  her  kettle  and  her  cabin  remained  untouched. 

2.  Left  from  Columbia  on  State  94  at  6  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  L.  6.3  m, 
on  the  dirt  road  to  the  Frying  Pan,  an  indentation  of  Alligator  River  whose  shores  form 
the  outline  of  a  frying  pan.  In  its  waters,  darkened  by  juniper  trees,  grows  the  American 
lotus,  lovely  in  summer  with  its  large  cream-colored  corolla. 

At  the  western  edge  of  Columbia,  paved  US  64  crosses  the  Scuppernong 
River,  a  black,  winding  stream.  The  name  is  derived  from  askup'-onong 
(Algonquin,  at  the  place  of  the  sweet  bay  tree).  Tradition  says  scuppernong 
grapes  were  discovered  by  the  two  brothers  Alexander  nearby  in  the  18th 
century.  In  18 19  Senator  Nathaniel  Macon  sent  two  bottles  of  scuppernong 
wine  to  Thomas  Jefferson  at  Monticello,  describing  it  as  "the  best  in  America." 

From  the  bridge  the  highway  passes  over  a  mile-long  causeway  through 
swampland.  The  road  penetrates  woods  and  fields  where  Carolina  yellow 
jessamine  and  wild  azalea  bloom  in  spring,  huckleberries  and  blackberries 
ripen  in  summer,  and  ageratum  and  purple  sage  blossom  in  the  fall. 

CRESWELL,  25  m.  (350  pop.),  a  small  farming  community  with  a 
lumber  plant,  was  founded  in  1874  by  William  Atkinson  and  named  for 
John  A.  J.  Creswell,  Postmaster  General  at  that  time. 

1.  Left  from  Creswell  on  a  dirt  road  to  St.  David's  Episcopal  Church,  1  m.,  known 
also  as  Pettigrew's  Chapel,  built  in  1803  by  the  Rev.  Charles  Pettigrew  who  served 
also  as  rector  of  St.  Paul's  at  Edenton  (see  edenton).  Pettigrew  died  in  1807,  and 
some  years  later  the  congregation,  led  by  his  descendants  and  Josiah  Collins,  rebuilt  the 
chapel.  The  building  is  cruciform  in  plan.  Its  interior  furnishings  are  all  hand-carved. 
An  inscription  on  a  memorial  window  recalls  that  the  rector  was  the  first  bishop-elect  of 
the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church  in  North  Carolina.  He  was  also  instrumental  in  founding 
the  University  of  North  Carolina  and   was  a  member  of  its  first  board  of  trustees. 

2.  Left  from  Creswell  on  another  dirt  road,  2  m.,  to  the  Somerset  Canal;  R.  1  m.  on  a 
road  paralleling  the  Somerset  Canal  to  a  crossroads;  L.  0.5  m.  on  the  crossroad  to 
the  Bonarva  Canal;  R.  1  m.  on  a  road  paralleling  the  Bonarva  Canal,  within  the  Farm 
Security    Administration's    10,635-acre    project   called    Scuppernong    Farms,    is    (R)    the 


tour  26  495 

Magnolia  (Pettigrew)  Plantation  House  {private),  a  white-painted  frame  residence 
recently  restored.  It  has  a  hip  roof,  in  the  center  of  which  is  a  platform  enclosed  by  a 
rail.  The  house  was  erected  by  Ebenezer  Pettigrew  about  1830  and  (1939)  serves  as  the 
residence  of  the  farm  superintendent.  Several  farms,  averaging  118  acres  each,  are 
occupied.  The  Administration  has  provided  homes  by  remodeling  some  that  were  already 
on  the  property  and  constructing  several  new  houses  costing  less  than  $1,000  each. 
Continuing  on  the  road  paralleling  the  Bonarva  Canal,  3  m.,  to  the  Pettigrew  Ceme- 
tery (L),  which  contains  the  Grave  of  Gen.  James  Johnston  Pettigrew,  marked  by  a 
marble  monument.  General  Pettigrew  was  an  officer  in  the  Confederate  Army  and  led 
the  North  Carolina  brigade  which  advanced  "farthest  at  Appomatox." 

Right  1  m.  from  the  Pettigrew  Cemetery  to  Somerset  (1st  floor  open  by  permission) 
on  the  shore  of  Lake  Phelps  at  the  terminus  of  Somerset  Canal.  The  house  was  built 
in  1804  by  Josiah  Collins,  an  Englishman,  whose  original  plantation  of  25,000  acres 
was  one  of  the  largest  estates  in  North  Carolina.  Rows  of  trees  were  planted  along  the 
avenue  of  approach.  The  mansion  is  of  hand-hewn  cypress  timber  with  hand-wrought 
ironwork,  upon  a  foundation  of  bricks.  There  are  large  brick  fireplaces,  wide  porches, 
windows  reaching  from  floor  to  ceiling,  graceful  stairways,  and  a  "cooling  room"  on  the 
upper  floor,  in  which  the  bodies  of  the  dead  were  kept  awaiting  burial. 

A  huge  four-story  frame  barn,  believed  to  be  the  last  of  its  type  in  the  South,  remains 
on  the  estate.  The  top  story,  with  gambrel  roof,  contained  the  bins  from  which  grain 
was  run  through  chutes  to  barges  on  Transportation  Canal,  whence  it  was  conveyed 
by  the  Alligator  River  to  Albemarle  Sound  for  ocean  shipment. 

In  front  of  the  house  Josiah  Collins  built  a  race  track;  here  the  fast  horses  in  the 
section  competed  and  tournaments  were  held.  The  queen  of  the  occasion  was  brought 
to  the  scene  on  a  finely  bedecked  barge.  In  the  lists,  young  men  in  armor  competed 
with  lances,  and  others  engaged  in  fencing  and  archery.  On  one  occasion,  mounted  men 
armed  with  spears  attacked  50  wild  boars  that  had  been  captured  in  the  surrounding 
swamps.  In  the  melee  a  youth  was  thrown  from  his  horse  and  torn  to  pieces  by  the 
infuriated  animals. 

Somerset  has  changed  hands  many  times.  About  1926  it  was  purchased  by  a  bachelor 
whose  friends  believed  he  had  invested  $10,000  unwisely.  One  morning  a  servant 
dashed  into  his  room  crying  that  the  herring  were  running.  The  catch  for  the  day 
sold  for  nearly  $20,000. 

LAKE  PHELPS  (stocked  with  fish),  supposed  by  some  authorities  to  be  of  meteoric 
origin,  is  12  miles  long  and  8  miles  wide;  it  lies  on  a  plateau  14.5  feet  higher  than  the 
surrounding  country.  The  crystal-clear  water  is  believed  to  come  from  springs.  Canals, 
cut  by  slave  labor  in  ante-bellum  days,  provide  the  only  outlets. 

It  is  through  these  canals — which  are  about  7  feet  deep  and  30  feet  wide  and  connect 
through  the  Scuppernong  River  with  Albemarle  Sound — that  the  herring  enter  the 
lake  in  spawning  time.  Great  quantities  are  caught  in  the  spring.  Lake  Phelps  is  a  bird 
sanctuary;  200  acres  along  its  shore  were  leased  by  the  State  in  1938  for  development  into 
Pettigrew  State  Park. 

ROPER,  42  m.  (13  alt.,  660  pop.),  a  farm  village,  was  formerly  a  busy 
settlement  called  Lees  Mill,  which  served  the  needs  of  the  wealthy  planters 
of  Tyrrell  County  in  Colonial  days. 

At  the  close  of  the  17th  century,  Capt.  Thomas  Blount  of  Chowan,  a 
blacksmith  and  ship's  carpenter,  settled  on  the  eastern  bank  of  Kendricks 
Creek.  Later  he  bought  the  Cabin  Ridge  plantation  where  the  town  of  Roper 
stands,  and  in  1702  built  the  first  mill  in  this  section.  He  died  in  1706,  and 
his  widow  married  Thomas  Lee.  In  time  both  the  mill  and  the  settlement 
were  called  Lees  Mill.  The  mill  was  used  continuously  until  1920.  Only  the 
water  wheel  and  a  small  part  of  the  building  are  left  to  mark  one  of  the 
earliest  developments  of  water  power  in  North  Carolina. 

Right  from  Roper  on  a  dirt  road  is  CHESSON,  0.7  m.,  a  small  hamlet  on  the 
Norfolk  Southern  R.R.  near  the  Site  of  Buncombe  Hall,  a   noted  Colonial  residence. 


496  TOURS 

Joseph  Buncombe,  wealthy  planter  of  south  Albemarle,  came  from  St.  Kitts  in  the 
West  Indies.  His  purchase  of  1,025  acres  from  Edward  Moseley  in  1736  is  the  first 
recorded  deed  in  Tyrrell.  He  built  a  house  on  Kendricks  Creek,  near  what  is  known 
as  Buncombe  Landing.  Legend  relates  that  during  the  early  days  of  Buncombe's  residence 
a  vessel  from  the  West  Indies  was  unloading  at  the  wharf,  having  among  her  crew 
a  youth  who  had  once  served  in  the  Guinea  slave  trade.  Recognizing  some  Guinea  natives 
among  the  slaves  handling  cargo,  he  indicated  to  one  of  them  a  point  over  the  stern 
of  the  vessel,  and  explained  that  a  deep  hole  led  to  Guinea.  One  dark  night  the  slave 
and  several  of  his  fellows  weighted  themselves,  dropped  into  the  water,  and  perished. 
The  deep  place  in  the  stream   is  still  known  as  the  Guinea  Hole. 

The  lands  of  Joseph  Buncombe  were  bequeathed  to  his  nephew,  Edward  Buncombe, 
who  came  from  the  West  Indies  about  1766  to  inspect  his  Carolina  possessions.  Deciding 
to  settle  in  Carolina,  Edward  Buncombe  arranged  for  the  construction  of  a  large 
house,  employing  as  his  builder  Stephen  Lee  of  Lees  Mill.  In  1768,  Edward  Buncombe 
returned  to  south  Albemarle.  Besides  being  a  planter  he  engaged  in  shipping,  and  owned 
his  own  schooner,   the  Buncombe.   Above  the    entrance   to   his   house  was: 

Welcome  all 

To    Buncombe   Hall. 

In  the  hall,  which  had  55  rooms,  all  guests,  ric*1  or  poor,  were  cordially  received.  The 
host  is  even  supposed  to  have  detained  favorite  guests  by  removing  bridges  on  either 
side  of  the  estate. 

The  Provincial  Congress  of  1776  appointed  him  colonel  of  the  5th  Regiment  of  North 
Carolina.  From  Tyrrell  he  recruited  the  men  of  his  regiment,  and  at  Buncombe  Hall 
he  equipped  and  trained  them  at  his  own  expense.  Colonel  Buncombe  was  wounded 
at  Germantown  in  1777  and  died  of  his  wounds  while  on  parole  in  Philadelphia.  The 
hall  was  sold  and  it  deteriorated  until  by  1878  only  the  naked  framework  of  the  dining 
room  and  the  kitchen  walls  remained.  There  is  nothing  to  show  where  the  hall  stood 
except  a  slight  depression  near  the  track  of  the  railroad  running  over  the  ridge.  A  county 
in  western  North  Carolina  was  named  for  Edward  Buncombe  {see  asheville). 

PLYMOUTH,  49  m.  (21  alt.,  2,139  P°P-)»  seat  °f  Washington  County, 
is  an  old  port  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Roanoke,  with  well-kept  lawns  and 
fine  old  trees  whose  branches  arch  above  the  streets. 

Plymouth  was  founded  in  1780  with  the  gift  of  a  site  by  Arthur  Rhodes, 
a  former  resident  of  Plymouth,  Mass.  It  became  a  thriving  shipping  point, 
but  during  the  War  between  the  States  was  the  scene  of  several  naval  battles, 
which  by  1865  had  reduced  it  to  n  battle-scarred  buildings.  Plymouth's 
industries  include  canning,  lumber  manufacture,  and  several  of  the  best- 
equipped  fisheries  in  the  State. 

On  the  courthouse  lawn  is  the  Battle  of  Plymouth  Marker,  which  re- 
calls not  only  deeds  of  Confederate  soldiers  but  also  the  achievement  of  a 
Union  officer,  Lt.  William  Barker  Cushing.  In  1864  a  Confederate  force 
under  Gen.  R.  F.  Hoke  captured  Plymouth  after  a  three-day  batde.  The  iron- 
clad ram  Albemarle ,  which  had  destroyed  one  Federal  gunboat  and  driven 
away  two  others,  was  anchored  in  Roanoke  River.  On  the  night  of  Oct.  27, 
1864  the  Albemarle  was  sunk  by  the  explosion  of  a  torpedo  placed  by  Cush- 
ing, who  escaped  by  swimming  down  the  river. 

Grace  Episcopal  Church,  a  brick  Gothic  Revival  structure  with  pointed 
steeple,  designed  by  Richard  Upjohn  (c.  1850),  surrounded  by  trees  and 
flowers,  is  flanked  on  one  side  by  the  Roanoke  River.  Years  ago  12  trees  were 
planted  in  the  churchyard  and  named  for  the  Apostles.  Lightning  killed  the 
tree  named  Judas  without  damaging  any  of  the  others.  During  the  War 


TOUR    26  497 

between  the  States  the  church  gave  up  its  pews  and  gallery  to  make  coffins 
for  the  many  who  had  fallen  in  battle. 

WILLIAMSTON,  70  m.  (76  alt.,  2,731  pop.)  (see  tour  7),  is  at  the 
junction  with  US  17  (see  tour  /). 

PRINCEVILLE,  101  m.  (39  alt.,  614  pop.)  (see  tour  2),  is  at  the  junc- 
tion with  US  258  (see  tour  2),  which  unites  with  US  64  between  Prince- 
ville  and  TARBORO,  102  m.  (58  alt.,  6,379  P°P-)  (see  T0UR  2)- 

At  106  m.  (50  yds.  L.  of  the  highway)  is  the  Powell  House  (open  to 
visitors),  a  buff-painted  mansion,  built  in  1858-61.  A  porch  that  originally 
extended  across  the  front  and  sides  has  been  reduced  to  a  small  entry  shelter. 
The  roof  is  surmounted  with  a  lantern  cupola  reached  by  a  hand-carved 
spiral  stair.  Plaster  walls  in  the  round  and  domed  vestibule  and  rear  entry 
hall,  and  in  the  circular,  four-story  central  hall,  are  hand-painted  in  gold 
with  a  background  of  faded  blue.  Frescoes  on  ceilings  and  cornices  are  cov- 
ered with  gold  leaf.  One  of  the  two  ceiling-high  mirrors  was  cracked  in 
April  1865  when  taken  into  the  forest  with  other  valuables  to  be  hidden  at 
the  approach  of  Sherman's  army.  The  Federal  invaders  were  persuaded  to 
spare  the  house  by  a  soldier  who  was  one  of  several  Maryland  artisans  em- 
ployed to  erect  it. 

ROCKY  MOUNT,  118  m.  (121  alt.,  21,412  pop.)  (see  tour  j),  is  at  the 
junction  with  US  301  (see  tour  ■?). 

NASHVILLE,  128  m.  (180  alt.,  1,137  P°P-)  (see  tour  6),  is  at  the  junc- 
tion with  State  58  (see  tour  6). 

In  SPRING  HOPE,  139  m.  (261  alt.,  1,222  pop.),  are  small  brick  and 
frame  buildings  lining  wide,  paved  streets.  The  town — named  for  an  older 
Spring  Hope,  a  stage  junction  that  once  existed  4  miles  to  the  south — was 
built  on  property  acquired  in  1887  from  the  Hendricks  family  at  a  price  so 
low  that  grateful  citizens  offered  the  couple  a  trip  anywhere  on  the  Atlantic 
Coast  Line  R.R.  They  accepted  a  trip  to  Rocky  Mount  about  20  miles  away. 

The  highway  crosses  the  Tar  River,  142  m.,  on  a  high  steel  bridge.  Dorothy 
Perkins  roses  climb  over  trellises  and  cover  many  of  the  houses  in  this 
section.  Many  of  the  farms  have  open  wells  in  their  front  yards. 

ZEBULON,  153  m.  (323  alt.,  860  pop.),  a  neat  village  with  several  tobacco 
warehouses,  is  at  the  junction  with  US  264  (see  tour  2j). 

WENDELL,  157  m.  (337  alt.,  980  pop.),  is  a  tobacco-marketing  village 
with  several  warehouses  near  the  highway. 

At  166  m.  the  highway  crosses  the  Neuse  River,  narrow  and  muddy  at  this 
point. 

RALEIGH,  174  m.  (363  alt.,  37,379  pop.)  (see  raleigh). 

Points  of  Interest:  State  Capitol,  Christ  Church,  Site  of  the  Birthplace  of  Andrew 
Johnson,  Joel  Lane  House,  N.  C.  State  College  of  Agriculture  and  Engineering,  and 
others. 


498  TOURS 

Raleigh  is  at  the  junction  with  US  70  (see  tour  28),  US  1  (see  tour  7), 
and  US  15 A  (see  tour  9). 

Section  b.  RALEIGH  to  STATESVILLE;  148  m.  US  64 

This  section  of  US  64  crosses  the  Piedmont  Plateau  through  an  area  of 
hills,  watercourses,  and  rich  bottom  lands.  In  the  region  are  farms  and  small 
manufacturing  enterprises. 

Between  RALEIGH,  0  m.,  and  14  m.,  US  64  unites  with  US  1  (see  tour 
yb).  Between  5  m.  and  8  m.  US  64  unites  with  US  70  (see  tour  28). 

The  HAW  RIVER  is  crossed  at  29  m.  In  January  1865  a  heavy  freshet 
swept  away  every  bridge  on  the  Haw.  This  was  considered  a  blessing  in 
disguise  since  it  prevented  bands  of  Federal  raiders  from  crossing  the  river. 

PITTSBORO,  33  m.  (409  alt.,  675  pop.)  (see  tour  10),  is  at  the  junction 
with  US  15-501  (see  tour  10). 

The  old  De  Graffenried  House  (private),  37  m.,  was  built  about  1810 
for  Delia  Alston  when  she  married  John  Baker  De  Graffenried.  It  is  one  of 
six  houses  presented  by  Joseph  John  (Chatham  Jack)  Alston  to  his  children. 
Known  also  as  "40-mile  Jack"  because  of  the  size  of  his  plantation,  Joseph 
John  Alston,  who  came  here  from  Halifax  County  in  1791,  was  one  of  the 
largest  landowners  and  slaveholders  in  this  section,  The  dwelling,  standing 
in  an  oak  grove  surrounded  by  an  ancient  rail  fence,  has  many  original  fur- 
nishings and  portraits. 

US  64  crosses  the  Rocky  River,  45  m.  Wheat  is  the  principal  crop  in  this 
section,  though  tobacco,  sheep,  poultry,  and  honey  are  important  products. 

Near  SILER  CITY,  50  m.  (598  alt.,  1,730  pop.)  (see  tour  29),  at  the 
junction  with  US  421  (see  tour  29),  rabbits  are  particularly  numerous.  Boys 
catch  thousands  every  year  in  home-made  traps. 

West  of  Siler  City  the  highway  penetrates  the  Uharie  (Uwharrie)  Moun- 
tains, whose  rocks  are  classified  by  geologists  as  among  the  oldest  on  the 
North  American  Continent.  These  worn  hills  rarely  reach  a  height  of  1,800 
feet.  The  Deep  River,  as  it  flows  through  narrow  valleys  in  the  range 
and  cascades  over  rocks,  provides  many  scenic  spots,  as  well  as  water  power. 

At  RAMSEUR,  63  m.  (460  alt.,  1,220  pop.),  an  industrial  village  (L) 
hidden  in  the  valley  of  the  Deep  River,  is  a  cotton  mill  beside  a  stone  dam. 

At  64  m.  the  highway  crosses  Sandy  Creek. 

About  4  miles  R.  on  this  creek  was  the  home  of  Harmon  Husband,  Quaker  leader 
in  the  Regulator  rebellion  of  1771.  After  the  Battle  of  Alamance  (see  tour  25),  Husband 
and  other  Regulators  were  outlawed  by  Governor  Tryon.  Husband  escaped  and  later 
settled  near  Pittsburgh,  Pa.  Some  of  his  descendants  live  in  this  section. 

FRANKLINVILLE,  65  m.  (463  alt.,  676  pop.),  is  a  mill  village  of  white 
cottages  in  terraced  rows  along  a  bluff  that  overlooks  the  Deep  River.  The 


tour  26  499 

founding  of  a  gristmill  here  in  1801  marked  the  beginning  of  the  town.  In 
1838  it  was  remodeled  as  a  cotton  mill. 

FAITH  ROCK,  L.  of  the  bridge  spanning  the  river,  was  used  by  Andrew 
Hunter  in  178 1  in  escaping  from  the  Tory  leader  David  Fanning  (see  tours 
10,  11,  and  32).  He  rode  Fanning's  horse  down  this  steep,  slippery  cliff  to  the 
river  below  and  to  safety  beyond. 

ASHEBORO,  74  m.  (879  alt.,  5,021  pop.)  (see  tour  /j),  is  at  the  junc- 
tion with  US  220-311  (see  tour  13). 

At  78  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  unpaved  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  John  Wesley  Stand  Church,  2  m.,  established  here  in  1837. 
The  settlers  built  a  brush  arbor  on  the  deer  stand.  During  the  War  between  the  States 
services  were  discontinued  but  when  peace  came  the  Methodists  erected  another  arbor 
and  finally  a  small  building,  which  has  been  replaced  by  a  modern  structure. 

At  84  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  Hoover  Hill  Churchyard,  2  m.,  which  contains  the  grave 
of  Andrew  Hoover,  ancestor  of  Herbert  Hoover,  31st  President  of  the  United  States. 
Andrew  Huber,  a  Quaker,  came  from  Germany  to  Philadelphia  in  1738  and  to  this 
neighborhood  in  1774.  He  changed  his  name  to  Hoover  and  operated  a  plantation  and 
gold  mine  nearby.  Some  of  his  descendants  migrated  to  the  Middle  West;  others  reside 
in  this  region. 

The  route  crosses  the  Uharie  River,  89  m.  Local  residents  spell  the  name 
Uwharrie.  The  valleys  were  settled  by  German  colonists  who  may  have 
named  it  New  Werra  after  a  river  in  their  old  homeland. 

LEXINGTON,  105  m.  (809  alt.,  9,652  pop.)  (see  tour  12),  is  at  the  junc- 
tion with  US  70-29  (see  tour  12),  and  with  US  52  (see  tour  15a). 

At  110  m.  is  REEDS  CROSSROADS.  On  the  grounds  of  the  school 
is  a  marker  memorializing  the  stop  made  here  by  President  George  Wash- 
ington in  1 79 1. 

At  113.5  m.  US  64  crosses  the  Yadkin  River  on  a  long  bridge. 

MOCKSVILLE,  124  m.  (814  alt.,  1,503  pop.),  seat  of  Davie  County,  is 
built  around  a  landscaped  public  square  with  the  courthouse  on  its  south- 
east side.  In  front  of  the  courthouse  is  a  boulder  announcing  that  Daniel 
Boone  "lived  and  learned  woodcraft  in  Davie  County,"  and  that  his  parents 
are  buried  not  far  distant. 

This  region  was  settled  between  1740  and  1750  by  Scotch,  Irish,  and 
English,  and  sometime  later  by  Germans  from  the  neighboring  Moravian 
Wachovia  (see  winston-salem).  The  settlers  were  harassed  by  Cherokee 
raids  from  the  west,  especially  during  the  French  and  Indian  Wars  (1750-63). 

Mocksville  is  at  the  junction  with  US  158  (see  tour  24b). 

Right  from  Mocksville  on  paved  US  601  in  the  Joppa  Graveyard,  1.5  m.,  are  the 
Graves  of  Squire  and   Sara  Boone,  parents  of  Daniel  Boone.  The  original  headstones 


500  TOURS 

with  their  18th-century  lettering  and  spelling  remain,  but  have  been  encased  in  a  monu- 
ment. This  is  the  site  of  the  Joppa  Presbyterian  Church,  organized  in  1760.  It  survives 
as  the  First  Presbyterian  Church  in  Mocksville. 

West  of  Mocksville  US  64  runs  through  an  area  rich  in  timber.  Several 
patches  of  woodland  are  maintained  by  the  State  forestry  division  to  demon- 
strate reforestation  and  efficient  forest  management. 

STATES VILLE,  148  m.  (925  alt.,  10,490  pop.)  (see  tour  16),  is  at  the 
junction  with  US  21  (see  tour  16). 

Section  c.  STATESVILLE  to  TENNESSEE  LINE;  291  m. 
US  64-70,  64 

Between  Statesville  and  the  Tennessee  Line,  US  64  crosses  the  foothills  of 
the  Appalachians  and  enters  the  western  North  Carolina  mountains  through 
a  region  of  peaks,  streams,  waterfalls,  and  forests.  The  section  is  rich  in  natu- 
ral resources  including  timber,  minerals,  and  water  power.  The  highway 
penetrates  two  national  forests. 

West  of  STATESVILLE,  0  m.,  is  a  region  of  cultivated  fields  interspersed 
with  dense  woodlands. 

The  Central  Piedmont  Soil  Erosion  Experiment  Farm  (open),  10.5  m. 
(L),  established  in  1930,  is  a  joint  project  of  the  U.  S.  and  N.  C.  Departments 
of  Agriculture,  where  experiments  are  being  conducted  to  determine  the  best 
methods  for  checking  erosion. 

At  11.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  graveled  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  LOOKOUT  SHOALS  LAKE  (fishing,  boating,  camping), 
5.5  m.,  one  of  a  chain  of  artificial  lakes  formed  by  impounding  the  waters  of  the 
Catawba  River  for  hydroelectric  power. 

CONOVER,  20  m.  (1,060  alt.,  973  pop.)  (see  tour  iy))  is  at  the  junction 
with  State  16  (see  tour  ij),  and  US  321  (see  tour  79). 

HICKORY,  28  m.  (1,163  a^-»  7'3^3  P°P-)  (see  tour  19),  is  at  the  junc- 
tion with  US  321  (see  tour  19). 

CONNELLY  SPRINGS,  39  m.  (1,195  alt->  384  P°P-)>  nas  mineral  waters 
that  once  attracted  summer  visitors. 

Right  from  Connelly  Springs  on  an  improved  road  to  Rutherford  College,  1  m. 
(330  pop.),  site  of  a  coeducational  school  of  the  same  name  operated  for  many  years 
by  the  Western  North  Carolina  Methodist  Conference  and  since  1933  leased  ar.d  operated 
as  a  high  school  and  junior  college  by  the  Burke  County  board  of  education.  The 
forerunner  of  Rutherford  College  was  the  Owl  Hollow  Schoolhouse,  opened  in  1853 
by  Robert  Abernathy  in  a  one-room  cabin.  In  1869  John  Rutherford  gave  young 
Abernathy  funds  to  buy  200  acres  of  land  to  build  a  town,  the  present  Rutherford 
College.  In  the  42  years  of  Robert  Abernathy's  regime  the  school  provided  free  tuition 
to  hundreds  of  students,  many  of  whom  became  preachers.  The  two-story  brick 
Administration  Building  is  fronted  with  a  Doric  portico  and  the  main  roof  is  sur- 
mounted with  a  lantern  cupola. 


TOUR    26  501 

VALDESE,  44  m.  (1,203  alt.,  1,816  pop.),  in  the  foothills  of  the  Blue 
Ridge,  was  settled  in  1893  by  a  colony  of  50  families  from  the  Cottian  Alps 
of  northern  Italy.  These  short,  dark,  French-speaking  people  called  them- 
selves Waldensians  for  the  12th-century  reformer,  Peter  Waldo.  Here  they 
purchased  a  tract  of  3,000  acres  at  $4  an  acre.  With  the  rocks  taken  from 
the  hills  they  built  their  homes,  school,  and  church.  The  early  buildings, 
some  of  which  are  visible  from  the  main  street,  suggest  Italian  farmhouses. 

Under  the  patient  toil  of  the  settlers,  hillsides  worn  away  by  erosion  were 
covered  with  terraced  vineyards  and  productive  farms.  Francis  and  John 
Garrou,  who  had  left  home  to  learn  trades,  returned  in  1901  and  set  up 
textile  mills  that  grew  into  important  industries  and  transformed  the  com- 
munity into  a  manufacturing  town.  Through  a  cooperative  system  Valdese 
established  stores,  dairy  farms,  a  power  plant,  laundry,  bakery,  and  butcher 
shop.  The  cooperative  system  has  given  way  to  private  enterprise.  In  addi- 
tion to  the  textile  mills,  there  are  a  shoe  factory,  box  factories,  and  other 
small  plants.  The  Waldensian  bakery  distributes  bread  and  cakes  over  a 
wide  area. 

In  the  Waldensian  Presbyterian  Church  (1899),  a  stuccoed  stone 
building  with  lancet  windows  and  fronted  with  a  square  tower,  services  are 
conducted  in  French  on  the  second  Sunday  in  each  month.  The  other 
services  are  in  English.  On  the  second  floor  of  the  church  is  a  Museum 
{open)  containing  household  articles,  tools,  and  clothing  brought  from 
Europe  or  made  by  hand  in  the  town. 

The  Site  of  Camp  Vance,  46  m.,  was  used  by  Confederate  soldiers  dur- 
ing the  War  between  the  States. 

MORGANTON,  50  m.  (1,181  alt.,  6,001  pop.),  seat  of  Burke  County, 
is  in  the  Catawba  River  Valley  encircled  by  ranges  attaining  an  elevation 
of  4,500  feet.  Modern  structures  in  the  business  section  contrast  with  the 
century-old  courthouse.  Thriving  industries  and  extensive  trade  create  a 
quick-moving  tempo. 

For  a  few  years  after  its  formation  from  Rowan  in  1777,  Burke  County 
extended  to  the  Mississippi  River,  the  present  State  of  Tennessee  then  being 
a  part  of  North  Carolina  and  Burke  the  westernmost  county  of  the  State. 
The  name  honors  Thomas  Burke  {see  tour  //),  Governor  of  North  Caro- 
lina (1781-82).  The  county  seat  was  first  called  Morganborough  for  Gen. 
Daniel  Morgan,  a  Revolutionary  soldier. 

When  the  court  square  and  streets  were  laid  out,  the  commissioners 
named  the  latter  for  the  principal  streets  of  Charleston,  S.  C,  the  city  to 
which  early  mountain  dwellers  went  for  their  loaf  sugar  and  Jamaica  rum, 
and  later  for  slaves  brought  from  Africa. 

The  Burke  County  Courthouse  (1833),  now  covered  with  cement, 
standing  among  the  trees  on  Central  Square,  was  built  of  local  stone, 
though  two  members  of  the  committee  wanted  to  use  bricks  brought  from 
South  Carolina.  Twin  stairways  lead  from  opposite  corners  of  the  building 
to  the  courtroom  on  the  second  floor.  This  hip-roof  structure  is  surmounted 
with  a  square  tower.  In  February  1865,  General  Stoneman's  army  or  camp 


502  TOURS 

followers  raided  the  building,  threw  the  records  into  the  square,  and 
burned  them.  Only  a  "tryal  docket"  (i 792-1 804)  escaped. 

To  the  old  log  courthouse  on  this  same  site  in  1788  was  brought  John 
Sevier  (1745-1815),  after  he  had  been  arrested  near  Jonesboro  by  Col.  John 
Tipton  and  charged  with  treason  against  the  State  of  North  Carolina. 
Sevier  was  a  leading  figure  in  the  Watauga  Association  (see  tour  18)  and 
was  Governor  of  the  State  of  Franklin,  later  incorporated  into  Tennessee. 
Although  the  State  of  Franklin's  separation  from  North  Carolina  was 
caused  by  neglect  on  the  part  of  State  authorities,  Sevier  and  his  associates 
were  vigorously  condemned  and  steps  were  taken  to  dissolve  the  insurgent 
State. 

While  the  trial  was  in  progress,  Sevier's  friend,  James  Cosby,  disguised 
as  a  rustic,  left  Sevier's  mare  in  front  of  the  courthouse  doorway,  entered 
the  courtroom,  and  as  soon  as  he  was  sure  that  Sevier  had  seen  the  horse, 
interrupted  the  trial  by  demanding  whether  the  judge  wasn't  "done  with 
that  man."  In  the  ensuing  confusion  Sevier  ran,  leaped  on  his  horse,  and 
outdistanced  pursuers.  Sentiment  against  him  subsided  and  he  was  elected 
to  the  State  assembly,  was  a  member  of  the  first  Congress,  and  was  elected 
first  Governor  of  Tennessee  (1796). 

The  old  courthouse  was  the  scene  (1832-33)  of  the  trial  and  hanging  of 
Frankie  Silver  for  the  murder  of  her  husband  in  present  Yancey  County 
(see  tour  20). 

The  Community  House  (1935)  is  a  white-painted  brick  structure  in  the 
Colonial  tradition,  surrounded  by  old-fashioned  flower  gardens,  flagged 
walks,  and  boxwood  borders. 

On  the  southern  outskirts  of  the  town  the  State  owns  1,200  acres  of  land 
upon  which  are  the  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane  and  the  North  Caro- 
lina School  for  the  Deaf.  The  hospital,  authorized  by  the  general 
assembly  of  1875  and  completed  11  years  later,  can  accommodate  about 
2,500  patients.  The  School  for  the  Deaf,  authorized  in  1891,  includes  a  model 
farm  that  produces  sufficient  food  for  the  more  than  350  students.  Academic 
as  well  as  vocational  subjects  are  taught. 

Right  from  Morganton  on  State  181  to  the  junction  with  State  105,  1.3  m. ;  L.  7  m. 
on  State  105 — known  as  the  Kistler  Memorial  Highway  in  honor  of  Andrew  M.  Kistler, 
a  proponent  of  good  roads  for  the  mountain  section — is  LAKE  JAMES  (tourist  camps, 
fishing,  hunting).  This  artificial  reservoir,  with  152  miles  of  mountainous  shores,  was 
created  by  the  Duke  Power  Co.  on  the  Catawba  River. 

At  24  m.  on  State  105  the  PINNACLE,  an  unusual  mountain  formation,  is  visible. 
From  Wisemans  View,  34  m.,  are  sweeping  views;  at  38  m.  is  LINVILLE  FALLS 
(see  tour  18). 

At  3  m.  on  State  181  is  the  beginning  of  Quaker  Meadows,  the  site  of  one  of  the 
earliest  settlements  in  the  section,  where  a  Quaker  fur  trader  camped  before  the  French 
and  Indian  War.  The  Indians  cleared  the  bottoms,  which  grew  up  in  grass,  giving  the 
place  its  name.  When  Bishop  August  Gottlieb  Spangenberg  came  here  in  1752  in  search 
of  lands  for  the  Moravians  (see  winstox-salem),  he  described  the  place  as  "fifty 
miles  from  all  settlements."  Among  the  first  settlers  (1752)  at  Quaker  Meadows  was 
David  Vance,  Revolutionary  patriot,  one  of  the  founders  of  Buncombe  County,  and 
grandfather  of  Zebulon  B.  Vance,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1862  and  1877)  (see 
asheville).  After  the  Revolutionary  War  David  Vance  settled  in  present  Buncombe 
County  where  he  is  buried  (see  tour  21a). 


TOUR     26  503 

Soon  after  the  French  and  Indian  War,  Joseph  McDowell  and  his  cousin,  "Hunting 
John"  McDowell,  came  to  the  Catawba  Valley,  the  former  to  build  his  home  at  Quaker 
Meadows,  the  latter  at  Pleasant  Gardens.  The  mountain  men,  on  their  way  to  Kings 
Mountain  (see  tour  31c),  assembled  at  Quaker  Meadows  in  October  1780.  At  the 
McDowell  home,  Zebulon  B.  Vance  was  married  to  Miss  Harriette  Espy  on  Aug.  3,  1853. 

At  8.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  Table  Rock  Rd.;  L.  1.6  m.  on  this  road  to  Table 
Rock  (3,909  alt.).  From  this  point,  reached  by  a  trail,  are  impressive  views  of  Chimney 
Mountain  to  the  south  and  the  sharp  crest  of  Havvksbill  and  the  long  ridge  of  Gingercake 
Mountain  to  the  north. 

At  11  m.  is  CLEARWATER  BEACH,  a  recreation  center  on  Steels  Creek. 

Beyond  Clearwater  Beach  State  181  begins  the  steep  ascent  of  Ripshin  Ridge  to 
Loven's  Hotel,  16  m.,  near  Cold  Spring.  Visible  from  the  hotel,  under  favorable  atmos- 
pheric conditions  at  night,  are  the  Brown  Mountain  Lights,  a  phenomenon  that  has 
puzzled  scientists  for  50  years.  The  lights,  which  appear  behind  Jonas  Ridge,  resemble 
the  glow  of  balls  of  fire  from  a  Roman  candle.  After  reaching  a  maximum  intensity 
they  fade  out  to  appear  at  other  points.  The  U.S.  Geological  Survey  suggested  that  the 
lights  might  be  caused  by  the  refraction  of  headlights  on  trains  and  automobiles  in  the 
valley  beyond.  The  National  Geographic  Society  reported  that  the  source  could  be  from 
discharges  of  static  electricity. 

GLEN  ALPINE,  55  m.  (1,206  alt.,  529  pop.),  is  an  industrial  community 
built  around  knitting  mills. 

MARION,  71  m.  (1,437  alt.,  2,467  pop.)  (see  tour  18),  is  at  the  junction 
with  US  221  (see  tour  18).  Between  Marion  and  73  m.  US  221  unites  with 
US  64. 

At  73  m.  is  the  marked  SITE  OF  PLEASANT  GARDENS.  When 
Joseph  McDowell  came  to  the  Catawba  River  Valley  before  the  Revolution 
and  settled  at  Quaker  Meadows,  his  cousin,  John  McDowell  settled  here 
and  built  a  two-room  log  cabin.  He  called  the  tract  Pleasant  Gardens  and 
he  became  known  as  "Hunting  John"  because  of  his  prowess  in  tracking 
game  in  the  wild  Indian  country. 

"Hunting  John's"  son,  Joseph,  saw  action  at  the  Battle  of  Kings  Moun- 
tain with  his  cousins,  Charles  and  Joseph;  became  a  colonel  of  the  militia 
and  a  physician,  and  served  in  the  house  of  commons  (1787,  88,  91,  92). 
He  usually  appended  "P.G."  to  his  signature  and  was  called  "Pleasant 
Gardens  Joe"  to  distinguish  him  from  his  cousin  "Quaker  Meadows  Joe." 

After  the  death  of  Col.  Joseph  McDowell,  P.G.,  his  widow  married  Col. 
John  Carson.  She  gave  the  name  Pleasant  Gardens  to  the  Carson  house,  and 
thus  the  entire  section  came  to  be  known  by  that  name.  Her  son,  Samuel  P. 
Carson,  served  in  Congress  and  fatally  wounded  Dr.  R.  B.  Vance  in  a  duel 
fought  below  the  South  Carolina  Line  in  1827  (see  tours  2 ia  and  22b). 

At  75  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  104. 

Right  on  paved  State  104  to  the  dam  at  LAKE  TAHOMA  {camping,  picnicking,  swim- 
ming, boating),  2.5  m.,  a  500-acre  lake  that  mirrors  rimming  mountains. 

At  8.5  m.  this  scenic  drive  enters  the  boundaries  of  the  Mount  Mitchell  Division  of  the 
Pisgah  National  Forest  (see  national  forests).  In  the  forest  is  the  BLACK  MOUN- 
TAIN RANGE,  for  which  the  town  of  Black  Mountain  is  named  (see  tour  jo). 
BUCK  CREEK  GAP,  12.2  m.  (3,200  alt.),  lies  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  the  major  water 
divide  of  the  eastern  United  States.  At  Buck  Creek  is  the  junction  with  the  Blue  Ridge 
Parkway. 


504  TOURS 

At  BUSICK,  14  m.  (300  pop.),  is  the  junction  with  a  graveled  Forest  Service  road;  L. 
1.5  m.  on  this  road  to  the  junction  with  a  Forest  Service  trail;  R.  3  m.  on  this  trail 
to  the  TOP  OF  MOUNT  MITCHELL,  the  crest  of  the  Black  Mountains  and  highest 
peak  in  eastern  America  (see  tour  30A).  Between  Balsam  Cone  (6,645  ah.)  and  Potato 
Hill  (6,487  alt.),  is  an  area  of  4,000  acres  of  virgin  timber  containing,  at  successive  eleva- 
tions, belts  of  Appalachian  hardwoods  and  northern  hardwoods.  This  tract  is  being 
maintained  by  the  U.S.  Forest  Service  as  a  primitive  area. 

North  of  Busick  State   104  parallels  the  South  Toe  River. 

At  14.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  gravel  Forest  Service  road. 

Left  on  this  road  2  m.  is  the  32,000-acre  MOUNT  MITCHELL  STATE  GAME 
REFUGE  (picnic  grounds,  water,  sanitary  facilities),  containing  deer,  bear,  and  other 
game.  In  this  little  cove  are  the  residence  of  the  chief  refuge  warden,  game  breeding 
pens,  a  small  zoo  of  native  wildlife,  and  the  Toe  River  Fish  Hatchery,  maintained  by 
the  North  Carolina  Department  of  Conservation  and  Development. 

At  16  m.  is  the  CAROLINA  HEMLOCK  FOREST  SERVICE  CAMPGROUND  (water, 
fireplaces,  fuel,  tables,  sanitary  facilities). 

MICAVILLE,  26  m.  (2,504  alt.,  118  pop.),  is  at  the  junction  with  US  19E  (see 
tour  20). 

Between  the  junction  with  State  104  and  Old  Fort,  US  64  follows  the 
route  taken  by  Gen.  Griffith  Rutherford,  leading  a  force  of  patriots  in  1776 
during  his  campaign  against  the  Cherokee  (see  tours  21b  and  jo). 

OLD  FORT,  84  m.  (1,438  alt.,  866  pop.),  is  a  small  manufacturing  town 
at  the  foot  of  the  Blue  Ridge.  This  is  the  Site  of  Davidsons  Fort,  an  early 
shelter  for  pioneer  settlers  and  friendly  Catawba  Indians.  Built  in  1757 
for  protection  against  the  Cherokee,  for  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  century  the 
stockade  was  the  farthest  western  outpost  in  North  Carolina  of  the 
advancing  whites  and  served  as  a  base  for  exploration  and  settlement  of  the 
Blue  Ridge.  To  the  fort  fled  the  family  of  Samuel  Davidson  after  Davidson 
had  been  ambushed  and  slain  by  Cherokee  near  Christian  Creek  in  1784 
(see  tour  jo). 

At  Old  Fort  US  70  (see  tour  jo)  branches  R. 

Between  Old  Fort  and  Bat  Cave  US  64  is  a  graveled  road  through  a 
sparsely  settled,  thickly  forested  mountain  section  of  unusual  beauty.  For 
several  miles  the  highway  parallels  the  Broad  River. 

In  BAT  CAVE,  105  m.  (1,472  alt.,  66  pop.),  a  little  village  with  a  post 
office  and  a  few  stores,  the  route  crosses  the  Broad  River  flowing  through 
HICKORY  NUT  GORGE.  Here  is  the  junction  with  US  74  (see  tour  31c). 
South  of  this  point  US  64  is  paved. 

In  EDNEYVILLE,  112  m.  (approx.  100  pop.),  a  delicious  cider  is  sold 
during  the  fall. 

Left  from  Edneyville  on  the  Sugarloaf  Mountain  Rd.  to  SUGARLOAF  MOUNTAIN, 
7  m.  (3,967  alt.).  From  an  observation  tower  here  is  a  view  of  the  surrounding  moun- 
tains. Accommodations  are  available  at  a  dude  ranch  on  the  peak. 

HENDERSONVILLE,  120  m.  (2,146  alt.,  5,070  pop.)  (see  tour  22b), 
is  at  the  junction  with  US  25  (see  tour  22b). 

HORSE  SHOE,  125.9  m.  (2,083  a^->  3°  P°P-)>  1S  surrounded  by  farm- 
ing country  with  occasional  woodlands. 


TOUR    2  6  505 

DAVIDSON  RIVER,  137.6  m.  (2,099  alt->  l6°  P°P-)>  is  named  for  the 
stream  that  flows  through  the  village.  The  highway  crosses  Davidson  River 
{trout  fishing)   at  138.1  m. 

PISGAH  FOREST,  138.2  m.  (2,107  alt->  775  P°P-)> is  a  sma11  lumbering 
community. 

Right  from  the  village  of  Pisgah  Forest  on  improved  State  284  to  the  entrance 
to  PISGAH  NATIONAL  FOREST,  1.5  m.  (see  tour  21  A),  marked  by  concrete  pillars. 

BREVARD,  141.2  m.  (2,230  alt.,  2,339  P°P-)>  seat  °f  Transylvania 
County,  is  named  for  Ephraim  Brevard,  Revolutionary  soldier  and  a  mem- 
ber of  the  Mecklenburg  Committee  {see  charlotte).  In  a  region  of 
mountains,  forests,  waterfalls,  and  trout  streams  where  roads  and  trails 
are  well  marked,  Brevard  attracts  many  summer  visitors.  The  town  was 
incorporated  in  1867  with  seven  voters,  every  one  of  whom  held  office. 

The  high  hat  industry,  a  craft  widely  practiced  in  early  Colonial  days 
and  lingering  in  remote  spots  until  the  War  between  the  States,  once 
flourished  here.  The  town  hatter  made  by  hand  wool  hats,  muskrat  hats, 
and  fine  beaver  hats.  In  this  section  any  high  hat  is  called  a  "beaver,"  or,  in 
derision,  a  "bee  gum."  Owners  of  high  hats  once  paid  an  annual  State 
revenue  tax  of  $4.  A  similar  levy  was  made  on  those  who  carried  gold- 
headed  canes. 

Modern  Brevard's  industries  include  the  manufacture  of  lumber,  tanning 
extract,  and  cotton  goods.  Brevard  College  (L),  occupying  a  group  of 
brick  buildings,  is  a  standard,  coeducational  junior  college  with  400  students 
and  a  faculty  of  25,  maintained  by  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  South. 

Left  from  Brevard  on  US  276  to  the  junction  with  an  unpaved  road,  4  m. ;  L.  0.8  m. 
on  this  road  to  MAIDENHAIR  FALLS  on  Hogshead  Creek. 

On  US  276  at  6  m.  is  CONNESTEE  FALLS  (adm.  10$),  where,  legend  relates,  many 
years  before  the  coming  of  the  white  settlers  a  young  Englishman  was  wounded  and 
captured  by  the  Cherokee.  The  Indians  spared  his  life  and  he  fell  in  love  with  the 
Princess  Connestee  who  had  nursed  him  back  to  health.  During  their  courtship  the 
two  often  sat  by  the  waterfall.  With  the  consent  of  Chief  Wahilla,  the  girl's  father, 
they  were  married.  Later,  while  visiting  a  trading  post  for  supplies,  the  white  man 
was  persuaded  by  friends  to  return  to  his  own  people.  The  heartbroken  Indian  wife 
threw  herself  over  the  falls,  where  her  tragic  figure  may  sometimes  be  seen  in  the 
gorge  below. 

During  the  first  decade  of  the  19th  century  the  land  lying  within  this  section,  and  in 
a  strip  about  12  miles  wide,  north  of  and  paralleling  the  present  North  Carolina- 
South  Carolina  boundary,  was  the  subject  of  dispute  between  North  Carolina  and 
Georgia,  which  then  bordered  the  area,  and  became  known  as  the  Orphan  Strip. 
In  1803  it  was  incorporated  by  Georgia  as  Walton  County.  This  resulted  in  violence 
and  bloodshed  known  as  the  Walton  War.  While  the  section  was  a  no  man's  land 
it  became  the  refuge  of  renegades  and  desperate  characters  seeking  to  avoid  the  laws 
of  either  State.  Commissioners  from  both  States  met  in  Asheville  June  15,  1807.  Later, 
at  Caesars  Head,  they  signed  an  agreement  that  Georgia  had  no  right  to  claim  any 
territory  north  or  west  of  the  Blue  Ridge  and  east  or  south  of  "the  present  temporary 
line  between  the  whites  and  Indians." 

CAESARS  HEAD  (adm.  25$),  12  m.  (3,218  alt.),  is  a  rocky  precipice  that  resembles 
the  profile  of  Julius  Caesar  and  towers  above  the  plains  of  South  Carolina. 

US  276  crosses  the  South  Carolina  Line  26  miles  northwest  of  Travelers  Rest  (see 
s.  c.  tour  10). 


506  TOURS 

ROSMAN,  150.3  m.  (2,189  a^->  4^4  P°P-)>  nas  developed  into  a  small 
industrial  town  since  the  ante-bellum  days,  when,  according  to  legend,  it 
was  on  the  Underground  Railroad  used  by  slaves  escaping  to  the  north. 

At  158  m.  is  the  junction  with  paved  State  281. 

Right  on  State  281  to  LAKE  TOXAWAY,  0.5  m.  (3,036  alt.,  125  pop.),  once  a 
fashionable  summer  resort  built  around  a  beautiful  artificial  lake.  Since  191 6,  when  a 
flood  swept  the  dam  away,  little  remains  to  recall  the  heyday  other  than  a  hotel  and 
tourist  cabins. 

A  concrete  bridge,  158.5  m.,  crosses  the  Toxaway  River  (stocked  with 
bass  and  trout).  Above  and  below  the  bridge  the  river  falls  over  a  rugged 
rock  formation. 

SAPPHIRE,  164.1  m.  (3,104  alt.,  50  pop.),  is  so  named  for  the  precious 
stones  found  near  here,  and  because  the  sky  and  water  seem  to  be  an 
unusually  intense  blue.  The  highway  winds  through  a  region  praised  for 
its  beauty  by  generations  of  travelers  because  of  the  combination  of  forested 
mountains,  streams,  and  sky.  SAPPHIRE  LAKE,  167.7  m.  (L),  is  a  small 
body  of  water  in  a  mountain  setting. 

At  169.5  m.  is  the  entrance  of  Fairfield  Inn  {swimming,  boating;  horses 
available)  overlooking  FAIRFIELD  LAKE.  Back  of  the  inn  is  ROCK 
MOUNTAIN,  named  for  its  granitine  face.  Long  Branch  Creek  falls  over 
a  cliff  to  form  the  lake,  which  is  encircled  by  a  drive. 

CASHIERS,  172.4  m.  (3,524  alt.,  185  pop.),  is  a  summer  resort  in  the 
midst  of  impressive  scenery.  LAKE  CASHIERS  {fishing)  is  near  the  village. 

Cashiers  is  at  the  junction  with  State  106  {see  tour  21D). 

Left  on  State  106  to  High  Hampton  Inn  and  Country  Club  (swimming,  boating, 
golf,  tennis,  riding,  hiding,  fishing)  1.7  m.,  on  land  that  was  part  of  the  2,200-acre 
Hampton  estate,  planted  with  trees  and  shrubbery  from  many  parts  of  the  world.  The 
old  inn,  built  about  1850  by  Gen.  Wade  Hampton,  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1932. 
General  Hampton,  an  officer  in  the  Confederate  Army,  Governor  of  South  Carolina 
(1876-79),  and  U.  S.  Senator,  spent  his  summers  here  until  his  death  in  1902.  The  inn, 
erected  in  1933,  is  operated  as  a  resort  hotel;  it  is  rustic  in  style,  with  exposed  beams 
and  the  exterior  covered  with  bark.  Here  also  are  three  small  lakes. 

Right  from  High  Hampton  on  a  steep  road  (impassable  in  wet  weather)  to 
Grimshawes,  5  m.,  a  log  structure  5  feet  wide  and  6  feet  long,  called  the  smallest 
post  office  in  the  United  States. 

At  SUNRISE  VIEW,  176.5  m.  (4,150  alt.),  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt 
road  {impassable  in  wet  weather). 

Left  2  m.  on  this  road  to  a  trail;  L.  1  m.  on  this  trail  to  the  SUMMIT  OF  WHITE- 
SIDE MOUNTAIN  (4,930  alt.),  whose  solid  rock  face  towers  over  the  countryside 
and  is  one  of  the  highest  sheer  precipices  (1,800  feet)  in  eastern  America.  The  trail 
extends  0.5  m.  to  Devils  Courthouse,  a  jutting  rock  formation  on  the  east  side  of 
Whiteside. 

In  this  section  of  the  Nantahala  National  Forest  {see  national  forests) 
hemlock  and  spruce  grow  in  profusion  on  the  mountains.  During  May  the 
azalea,  which  showed  earlier  blossoms  shading  from  white  to  orange,  is  a 


TOUR    26  507 

flaming  red.  Laurel,  rhododendron  and  other  mountain  shrubs  grow 
higher  than  usual  among  the  hemlock  trees.  The  banks  of  the  streams  are 
covered  with  moss  and  lacy  ferns.  Here  and  there  a  mountaineer's  cabin 
breaks  the  wilderness. 

HIGHLANDS,  184.4  m.  (3,835  alt.,  443  pop.). 

Season:    June    i-Oct.    15. 

Accommodations:  1   hotel,  cottages. 

Golf:  Highland  Golf  Club,   18  holes;  daily,  weekly,  or  monthly  rates. 

Highland  Club  Lake:  Swimming,  boating,  fishing. 

Other  Sports:  Tennis,  skeet,  riding,  hiking. 

Highlands  is  a  summer  resort  that  attracts  visitors  from  many  parts  of 
the  country,  including  naturalists  who  come  to  study  the  diversified  flora. 
Near  the  country  club  are  several  summer  homes,  including  that  of  Bobby 
Jones,  noted  golfer. 

Highlands  lies  on  a  high  plateau,  just  above  the  Georgia  Line.  To  the 
northeast  the  Appalachians  extend  all  the  way  to  Canada,  thus  favoring  the 
southward  spread  of  that  region's  plant  and  animal  life. 

The  variety  of  plant  and  animal  life  from  the  different  zones  makes  this 
area  an  encyclopedia  of  the  Carolina  mountains.  On  the  southeastern  slope 
of  Whiteside,  just  northeast  of  Highlands,  is  a  forest  containing  century-old 
conifers,  and  the  largest  and  finest  specimens  of  hemlock,  birch,  cherry,  and 
Fraser's  magnolia  known  in  the  United  States.  A  large  section  of  magnifi- 
cent forest,  surrounding  Highlands,  known  as  the  Primeval  Forest,  has  been 
purchased  by  the  Government  and  saved  from  cutting  and  destruction. 

Among  rare  plants  found  in  the  region  is  the  prized  shortia,  discovered 
in  1788  by  the  French  botanist,  Andre  Michaux.  It  grows  only  in  a  limited 
region  of  the  Carolina  mountains  and  in  Japan. 

The  Highlands  Museum  and  Biological  Laboratory  {open),  housed  in 
a  single-story  frame  building,  was  founded  in  1927  by  Dr.  Clark  Foreman 
to  preserve  the  private  collections  made  by  the  earlier  residents  of  the  town. 
A  report  by  the  director,  Dr.  E.  E.  Reinke,  professor  of  biology  at  Vander- 
bilt  University,  led  to  the  establishment  of  Weyman  Memorial  Laboratory 
in  1931.  Leading  southern  universities  lent  their  cooperation,  as  did  such 
institutions  as  the  Smithsonian,  the  American  Museum  of  Natural  History, 
Woods  Hole  Laboratory,  and  Charleston  Museum.  Dr.  W.  C.  Coker  of 
the  University  of  North  Carolina  succeeded  Dr.  Foreman  as  president. 

In  the  museum  there  is  a  cross  section  of  a  425-year-old  hemlock  tree. 
Labels  on  the  growth  rings  associate  historical  events  starting  with  the  last 
voyage  of  Columbus  in  1503.  The  great  tree  was  cut  when  the  golf  course 
was  laid  out.  Thomas  Grant  Harbison  (1863-1936),  botanist  and  horti- 
culturist, compiled  a  Chec\  hist  of  Ligneous  Flora  of  the  Highlands  Region. 

Left  from  Highlands  on  a  gravel  road  up  SATULAH  MOUNTAIN  (4,560  alt.)  to 
Sloan  Gardens  {open  daily),  1.5  m.,  containing  unusual  flowers  as  well  as  common 
varieties. 

Trails  from  Highlands  lead  to  the  peaks  of  nearby  mountains,  including  BEARPEN 
(4,100  alt.)  on  the  north,  BLACKROCK  (4,355  alt.)  on  the  east,  and  FODDERSTACK 
(4,280  alt.)  on  the  south. 


508  TOURS 

Northwest  of  Highlands  is  a  series  of  waterfalls.  The  first,  BRIDAL 
VEIL,  186  m.,  drops  over  the  highway.  At  DRY  FALLS  {picnic  grounds), 
186.5  m.  (L),  the  visitor  may  park  his  car,  descend  steps,  and  stand  behind 
the  falls,  viewing  the  Cullasaja  River  through  the  sheet  of  water.  LOW 
FALLS,  187  m.,  are  visible  (L)  as  the  route  descends  into  the  Cullasaja 
Gorge.  The  highway,  overlooking  the  river  250  feet  below,  was  carved  out 
of  perpendicular  cliffs. 

Between  205.2  m.  and  206.1  m.  US  64  unites  with  US  23  (see  tour  25). 

US  64-23  crosses  the  Litde  Tennessee  River  at  205.2  m.  FRANKLIN, 
206  m.  (2,113  alt.,  1,094  P°P-)  (see  tour  23). 

At  210  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  gravel  Forest  Service  road. 

Right  on  this  road  (steep  ascent,  many  hairpin  carves)  through  dense  forests  and 
shrubs,  cool,  damp,  and  fragrant,  to  the  WAYAH  STATE  GAME  REFUGE,  2.8  m., 
a  14,000-acre  wildlife  area  within  the  Nantahala  National  Forest.  It  contains  deer,  wild 
turkey,  ruffed  grouse,  fox,  gray  squirrel,  quail,  and  wildcat. 

At  Arrowwood  Glade  (picnic  grounds),  3.3  m.  (R),  are  trout-rearing  pools. 

The  Nantahala  (Wayah)  Gap  Campground  (water,  cooking  and  sanitary  facilities) 
is  at  9.6  m.  In  Wayah  (Ind.  wa'-ya',  wolf)  Gap  the  Cherokee  rallied  to  make  a  last 
stand  against  Gen.  Griffith  Rutherford  in  1776  (see  tours  21b  and  30).  Tradition  says 
that  Daniel  Boone  took  part  in  this  engagement  as  did  his  brother,  who  was  killed. 
After  the  fight  the  victorious  whites  discovered  that  one  of  the  slain  warriors  was  a 
woman  bedecked  in  war  paint  and  feathers. 

Right  from  the  gap  1.2  m.  on  a  Forest  Service  road  to  Wilson  Lick  Ranger  Station, 
and  up  the  steep  course  2.8  m.  farther  to  the  SUMMIT  OF  WAYAH  BALD  (5,336  alt.), 
one  of  the  highest  mountains  in  eastern  America  whose  summit  is  reached  by  a  motor 
road.  From  the  John  B.  Byrne  Tower,  erected  in  1937  as  a  memorial  to  a  former 
supervisor  of  the  Nantahala  National  Forest,  are  views  in  all  directions.  The  valley  far 
below  is  marked  with  the  sharp  curves  of  the  Little  Tennessee  River. 

West  of  Wayah  Gap  on  the  Forest  Service  road  is  AQUONE,  18  m.  (62  pop.);  the 
village  of  KYLE,  25.5  m.  (200  pop.),  and  at  33.9  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  Winding 
Stair  Rd.,  now  the  route.  At  37.1  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  19  (see  tour  21b). 

West  of  the  junction  with  the  Wayah  Rd.,  US  64  runs  through  the  heavily 
wooded  peaks  that  surround  the  Cartoogechaye  Creek  Valley.  At  WAL- 
LACE GAP,  219.1  m.  (3,640  alt.),  where  the  route  penetrates  the  crest 
of  the  Nantahala  Range,  is  the  junction  with  a  Forest  Service  road. 

Left  on  this  road,  following  Kimsey  Creek,  to  Deep  Gap  Campground  (water,  cooking 
and  sanitary  facilities),  5.5  m. 

At  Deep  Gap  is  a  junction  with  the  Appalachian  Trail.  This  area  adjoins  the  Standing 
Indian  State  Game  Refuge,  of  33,000  acres,  maintained  under  a  cooperative  agreement 
by  the  N.C.  Department  of  Conservation  and  Development  and  the  U.  S.  Forest  Service 
as  a  game  management  area. 

Right  0.5  m.  on  the  trail  (4-foot,  graded)  to  STANDING  INDIAN  (Ind.  Yunwitsule- 
nunyi,  where  the  man  stood)  (5,500  alt.),  a  bald  peak  called  "the  grandstand  of  the 
southern  Appalachians."  A  Forest  Service  tower  is  an  excellent  vantage  point. 

Ages  ago,  according  to  Cherokee  legend,  on  the  banks  of  the  Little  Tennessee  near 
Nikwasi  (see  tour  23),  an  awful  beast  with  widespread  wings  and  beady  eyes  plunged 
suddenly  from  the  sky,  seized  and  carried  away  a  child.  Such  raids,  repeated  elsewhere, 
terrorized  the  people  who  cleared  the  mountaintops  for  lookouts.  The  den  of  the  marauder 
was  finally  discovered  on  the  south  slope  of  this  peak,  inaccessible  even  to  the  most  daunt- 
less hunter.  In  answer  to  supplication  the  Great  Spirit  sent  thunder  and  lightning  against 


TOUR    26  509 

the  monster  and  destroyed  it;  ever  after  the  mountaintops  have  remained  bald.  Standing 
Indian  received  its  name  because  a  warrior  stationed  there  fled,  deserting  his  post,  when 
the  destroying  bolt  flashed  from  the  sky.  For  this  defection  he  was  turned  to  stone  and 
still  appears,  a  dismal  figure  at  eternal  vigil. 

Dr.  B.  W.  Wells,  while  believing  that  the  "riddle  of  the  balds"  is  as  yet  unsolved,  holds 
the  view  that  the  Indians  eliminated  the  original  forests  for  camps  or  lookouts  and  that 
the  grasses  obtained  so  fast  a  hold  they  were  able  to  choke  out  tree  seedlings. 

RAINBOW  SPRINGS,  223.7  m.  (250  pop.),  is  a  village  built  by  a  lum- 
ber company  to  serve  a  large  band  mill  here. 

In  the  YELLOW  MOUNTAIN  RIDGE  is  BLACK  GAP,  226.2  m. 
(3,700  alt.).  This  section  is  settled  sparsely.  The  few  mountain  cabins  are 
of  hewn  logs  or  rough  slabs  nailed  together. 

In  Buck  Creek  Valley,  228.7  m.,  is  (R)  BUCK  CREEK  RANCH  {fish- 
ing, hunting),  a  1,000-acre  public  campground  on  the  banks  of  Buck  Creek. 

Following  the  course  of  the  Glade  Branch  of  Buck  Creek,  the  highway 
dips  down  and  then  begins  a  gradual  ascent  to  GLADE  GAP,  231.4  m. 
Unfolded  to  view  at  this  point  is  a  panorama  of  dark  peaks  and  green 
valleys  bordering  the  waters  of  the  Hiwassee  River. 

Between  Glade  Gap  and  Elf,  smaller  streams  flow  into  the  waters  of 
Shooting  Creek,  which  parallels  the  highway.  Corundum  is  found  in  the 
valley  in  large  quantities  and  the  creek  is  famous  for  its  speckled  trout. 
The  community  of  SHOOTING  CREEK,  236.2  m.  (2,130  alt.),  is  on  the 
bank  of  the  stream  of  the  same  name. 

It  is  said  that  on  one  occasion  the  people  of  an  Indian  town  on  the 
Hiwassee  River,  near  its  confluence  with  Shooting  Creek,  prayed  and  fasted 
that  they  might  see  the  Nunnehi  {Immortals).  At  the  end  of  seven  days  the 
Nunnehi  came  and  took  them  under  the  water.  There  they  still  reside 
and  on  a  warm  summer  day  when  the  wind  ripples  the  surface  those  who 
listen  well  can  hear  them  talking  below. 

At  245  m.  US  64  crosses  the  Hiwassee  River. 

HAYESVILLE,  247  m.  (1,900  alt.,  305  pop.),  is  the  seat  of  sparsely 
settled  Clay  County.  The  town,  surrounded  by  peaks,  stands  in  a  maple 
grove  overlooking  the  Hiwassee  Valley.  The  county  was  named  for  Henry 
Clay  and  the  town  for  George  W.  Hayes,  who  represented  the  district 
in  the  legislature. 

The  mineral  resources  of  the  section  are  rich  and  varied  but  for  the 
most  part  undeveloped.  Gold  has  been  found  in  paying  quantities.  The 
most  notable  mines  were  operated  at  Warne.  Mica  occurs  in  the  higher 
ridges,  and  in  the  valleys  are  deposits  of  corundum,  kaolin,  magnetic  iron 
ore,  and  other  minerals. 

In  1838,  at  the  time  of  the  Cherokee  removal  {see  Indians),  Fort  Embree, 
on  a  hill  1  mile  southwest  of  Hayesville,  was  one  of  the  collecting  stockades. 
The  Hayesville  High  School,  a  modern  brick  building,  is  a  successor 
to  Hicksville  Academy,  founded  in  1855  by  John  O.  Hicks.  It  was  the 
oldest  school  in  the  State  west  of  Asheville  and  attracted  students  from 
Georgia,  Tennessee,  and  Alabama. 


510  TOURS 

BRASSTOWN,  260.1  m.  (150  pop.),  is  so  called  through  the  white 
man's  false  rendering  of  the  Indian  word  meaning  place  of  fresh  green. 
In  the  General  Store  (R)  is  a  collection  of  Cherokee  relics. 

The  John  C.  Campbell  Folk  School  {visitors  welcome),  on  a  175-acre 
farm,  is  a  nonprofit  venture  in  rural  adult  education.  It  was  organized 
and  named  by  its  present  director  (1939),  Mrs.  Olive  Dame  Campbell,  in 
memory  of  her  husband,  director  of  the  Southern  Highland  Division  of 
the  Russell  Sage  Foundation,  and  author  of  the  Southern  Highlander  and 
His  Homeland. 

The  school  program  falls  into  two  general  phases:  a  course,  inspired 
by  the  Danish  folk  schools,  for  young  adults,  to  supplement  public  school 
work;  and  a  community  program  involving  recreational,  cultural,  and 
economic  as  well  as  educational  features. 

The  Mountain  Valley  Cooperative,  Inc.,  operates  a  Creamery  {open) 
east  of  Brasstown;  the  credit  union  makes  small  loans  for  worthy  purposes. 
Handicrafts  have  been  developed  to  enable  the  people  to  create  beauty  as 
well  as  to  supplement  farm  incomes.  Examples  of  their  work  are  on  display 
in  the  Craft  Room  of  the  main  building.  Part  of  the  school  plant  is  a 
Folk  Museum,  housed  in  an  old  log  cabin. 

MURPHY,  268.1  m.  (1,535  alt-a  :>6i2  pop.)(^<?  tour  21b),  is  at  the 
junction  with  US   19  {see  tour  21b). 

From  KINSEY,  269.9  m.  (1,609  a^->  25  P°P-)>  ta^c  1S  shipped  to  distant 
manufacturers. 

At  278.1  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  294,  an  improved  road. 

Right  on  State  294  to  SHOAL  CREEK,  at  the  junction  with  a  TVA  access  road, 
12.5  m. ;  R.  4  m.  on  this  road  to  the  Hiwassee  Dam  Site,  a  TVA  project  upon  which 
construction  was  started  in  1937.  This  dam  will  be  similar  in  design  to  the  Norris  Dam 
in  Tennessee,  though  35  feet  higher.  Plans  specify  a  length  of  1,265  feet  with  a  spillway 
in  the  middle,  and  a  height  of  300  feet.  It  is  estimated  the  cost  will  be  $21,500,000.  When 
completed  (1940),  it  will  create  a  lake  of  10  square  miles,  extending  as  far  east  as 
Murphy.  The  project  will  make  a  connecting  link  with  the  interstate  navigable  streams 
and  constitute  an  aid  in  flood  control,  while  developing  an  enormous  amount  of  electrical 
energy  as  a  byproduct. 

Near  the  Tennessee  Line  the  landscape  is  desolate.  The  vegetation  has 
been  killed  by  sulphur  fumes  from  the  copper  smelters  at  Copper  Hill,  Tenn. 
Attempts  to  control  the  fumes  are  meeting  with  some  success  and  efforts 
are  being  made  (1939)  to  restore  vegetation. 

Tradition  relates  that  these  copper  mines  were  lost  to  the  State  of 
North  Carolina  because  the  surveyors  ran  out  of  liquor  when  they  reached 
the  high  peak  just  north  of  the  Hiwassee  River  and  instead  of  continuing 
the  line  southwest  they  turned  due  south  to  the  Georgia  Line,  where  they 
knew  of  a  still. 

At  290.9  m.,  US  64  crosses  the  Tennessee  Line,  4  miles  east  of  Ducktown, 
Tenn.  {see  tenn.  tour  13  and  ga.  tour  13). 


TOUR       2.    7 


Chocowinity — Greenville — Wilson — Zebulon;  US  264.  81  m. 

Norfolk  Southern  R.R.  parallels  entire  route. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  towns;  tourist  homes,  inns,  and  camps  along  the  route. 

This  route  runs  through  farm  lands  where  bright-leaf  tobacco  is  the 
principal  crop. 

US  264  branches  northwest  from  its  junction  with  US  17,  0  m.,  at 
CHOCOWINITY  (see  tour  ib). 

At  3.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  paved  old  US  264. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  Grimes  House  {private),  1.5  m.,  a  two-story,  clapboarded, 
frame  house  with  a  single-story  porch  across  the  front,  and  brick  end  chimneys.  The 
house,  erected  by  Dempsie  Grimes  I  in  1793,  has  been  continuously  occupied  by  his 
descendants.  Here  was  born  Confederate  Gen.  Bryan  Grimes  (1828-80),  and  J.  Bryan 
Grimes  (1868-1923),  who  served  as  Secretary  of  State  of  North  Carolina.  General  Grimes, 
involved  in  a  feud  with  three  Paramore  brothers,  was  shot  from  ambush  on  Aug.  14, 
1880.  William  Parker  was  charged  with  the  murder  but  was  acquitted  for  lack  of  evidence. 
Parker  left  the  community  but  returned  in  1891,  and  is  said  to  have  drunkenly  boasted 
that  he  was  the  assassin.  The  next  morning  Parker's  body  was  found  hanging  from  the 
river  bridge  at  Washington. 

GRIMESLAND,  6.3  m.  (36  alt.,  377  pop.),  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Tar  River,  was  built  on  part  of  the  Grimes  plantation. 

LOGTOWN,  15  m.,  before  1788  was  known  as  Martinborough  and  was 
the  site  of  a  Pitt  County  courthouse.  The  county  was  formed  in  1760  and 
named  for  William  Pitt,  Earl  of  Chatham.  A  tablet  on  a  boulder  marks 
the  Site  of  the  Courthouse.  Behind  the  site  is  part  of  the  first  brick  road 
in  eastern  Carolina.  Parson  Blount,  the  King's  representative,  had  this  road 
built  through  the  red  clay  to  enable  slaves  to  roll  brandy  barrels  up  the  hill. 

GREENVILLE,  18  m.  (71  alt.,  9,194  pop.),  seat  of  Pitt  County,  is  the 
second  largest  bright-leaf  tobacco  market  in  the  world.  In  the  fall,  when 
growers  bring  their  tobacco  to  market,  the  narrow  streets  are  crowded 
with  trucks,  automobiles,  and  wagons  laden  with  the  crop. 

Greenville  was  founded  in  1786  and  named  for  Gen.  Nathanael  Greene 
(see  tour  /j).  George  Washington  wrote  in  his  diary  that  on  Apr.  19,  1791, 
he  "dined  at  a  trifling  place  called  Greenville."  White  inhabitants  are 
chiefly  descendants  of  early  English  settlers,  and  most  of  the  Negroes,  many 
of  whom  work  in  the  tobacco  stemmeries,  are  descended  from  the  slaves 
on  the  cotton  and  tobacco  plantations. 

5" 


512  TOURS 

Thomas  J.  Jarvis,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (1879-85),  U.S.  Senator, 
and  Minister  to  Brazil,  practiced  law  in  Greenville.  Dr.  John  Davis  Humber, 
cancer  authority,  was  born  here  Dec.  5,  1895. 

The  Courthouse  (1910)  is  a  three-story,  white  brick  structure  with  Ionic 
porticoes,  corner  quoins,  and  a  clock  cupola.  A  tablet  recalls  the  visit  of 
President  Washington. 

East  Carolina  Teachers  College,  on  the  east  side  of  town,  was  estab- 
lished by  the  general  assembly  in  1907  as  the  East  Carolina  Teachers  Train- 
ing School.  Half  of  its  1,767  students  are  classified  as  "self-help."  The  20 
buildings  on  the  100-acre  campus  are  of  red  brick  with  white  trim  and  tile 
roofs.  The  college  comprises  13  departments,  offers  a  four-year  course, 
and  has  a  library  containing  19,000  volumes. 

On  the  south  side  of  town,  along  State  43,  are  10  Tobacco  Warehouses 
{open  in  fall),  ranging  in  size  from  a  half  to  a  full  city  block.  They  are 
crowded  in  season  with  farmers,  auctioneers,  and  buyers.  Annual  sales  have 
exceeded  60,000,000  pounds. 

A  marker  at  32.5  m.  indicates  the  Grave  of  Bentjamin  May,  Revolu- 
tionary soldier. 

FARMVILLE,  34  m.  (86  alt.,  2,056  pop.)  {see  tour  2),  is  at  the  junction 
with  US  258  {see  tour  2). 

At  53  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  58  {see  tour  6),  which  between  this 
point  and  Wilson  unites  with  US  264. 

WILSON,  56  m.  (147  alt.,  12,613  P°P-)  (see  tour  j«),  is  at  the  junction 
with  US  301  {see  tour  jc),  and  with  State  58  {see  tour  6). 

Small  farm  villages  between  Wilson  and  Zebulon  have  developed  since 
the  Norfolk  Southern  R.R.  was  built  here  in  1907. 

At  80  m.  is  the  junction  with  sand-clay  State  95. 

Right  on  State  95  to  the  Murray  Chair  Plant  (open),  3  m.  The  first  Murray  came  to 
this  section  in  1750  from  Buckinghamshire,  England,  and  plied  his  craft  of  hand  fashion- 
ing split-bottom  chairs.  The  present  Murray  produces  the  same  type  of  chair  by  the  same 
method  except  that  kerosene  and  electric  power  have  supplanted  the  old  boom  and  treadle. 

ZEBULON,  81  m.  (323  alt.,  860  pop.),  is  at  the  junction  with  US  64 
{see  tour  26a). 


TOUR       2.    8 


Durham — Raleigh — Goldsboro — New  Bern — Atlantic;  US  70.  218  m. 

Southern  Ry.  parallels  route  between  Durham  and  Goldsboro;  Atlantic  &  North  Carolina 

R.R.  between  Goldsboro  and  Morehead  City;  Beaufort  &  Western  Ry.  (operated  by  Norfolk 

Southern  R.R.)  between  Morehead  City  and  Beaufort. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  cities  and  larger  towns;  tourist  homes  and  camps  along  route. 

This  route  between  DURHAM,  0  m.  (see  Durham),  and  Core  Sound 
traverses  the  hills  of  the  industrial  Piedmont  and  the  agricultural  flatlands 
and  fishing  villages  of  the  coast.  In  this  part  of  eastern  Carolina  the  people 
are  as  interested  in  the  tradition  of  their  land  as  in  the  current  price  of  the 
tobacco  crop. 

At  16  m.  (R)  is  the  Nancy  Jones  House  (private),  a  white  clapboarded 
structure  of  two  stories  built  in  1805.  It  has  a  steeply  pitched  gable  roof, 
exterior  end  chimneys,  and  a  double-gallery  entrance  portico  with  pediment. 
A  windmill  stands  behind  the  house. 

The  long  undiscovered  diary  of  Mrs.  Nancy  Anne  Jones  describes  a  widely 
quoted  incident.  On  a  hot  summer  day  in  1838,  Gov.  Edward  B.  Dudley 
of  North  Carolina  (see  Wilmington)  and  Gov.  Pierce  Mason  Butler  of 
South  Carolina  arrived  at  the  same  time,  were  ushered  into  the  parlor 
and  served  tall  cool  mint  juleps.  Lany,  the  maid,  and  the  houseboy  ran  to 
mix  more  juleps,  but  not  quickly  enough  for  the  thirsty  Governors. 

Lany  reentered  the  room  as  the  Governor  of  North  Carolina  was  saying 
to  the  Governor  of  South  Carolina:  "It's  a  damn  long  time  between  drinks." 
"Damn  long!"  his  companion  replied.  When  Mrs.  Jones  heard  of  the 
remark  from  the  scandalized  maid,  she  was  shocked  and  embarrassed  at 
the  implied  reflection  on  her  hospitality. 

Another  version  has  been  handed  down  in  the  family  of  John  Motley 
Morehead,  Minister  to  Sweden  (1930-33),  whose  grandfather  was  Governor 
of  North  Carolina  (1841-45).  After  futile  correspondence  between  Governor 
Morehead,  a  Whig,  and  Gov.  J.  H.  Hammond  of  South  Carolina,  a  Demo- 
crat, concerning  the  extradition  of  a  political  offender,  the  two  officials  met 
with  their  staffs  and  legal  advisers  for  a  conference  on  the  State  Line,  not 
far  from  Charlotte.  During  the  discussion  Governor  Hammond  became 
excited  and  finally  announced  that  further  refusal  would  result  in  his  send- 
ing a  military  force  into  North  Carolina  to  seize  the  fugitive. 

"Now,  sir,"  he  shouted,  crashing  his  fist  upon  the  table,  "what  is  your 
answer?" 

513 


514  TOURS 

"My  reply,  sir,"  answered  Governor  Morehead  with  great  deliberation, 
"is  this:  It's  a  damn  long  time  between  drinks." 

This  unexpected  answer  had  the  effect  of  so  relieving  the  tension  that 
the  two  Governors  were  able  to  talk  dispassionately  and  eventually  to  reach 
a  settlement  satisfactory  to  both  States. 

At  CARY,  18  m.  (496  alt.,  900  pop.),  is  the  western  junction  with 
US  1-64  (see  tours  yb  and  26b),  which  unite  with  US  70  between  this 
point  and  21  m. 

At  23  m.  US  70  passes  (R  and  L)  the  Experiment  Farm  of  the  State 
College  of  Agriculture  and  Engineering  of  the  University  of  North  Carolina, 
conducted  in  cooperation  with  the  State  Department  of  Agriculture.  From 
the  farm  crimson  clover  was  introduced  into  the  State  in  1890  and  the 
culture  of  lespedeza,  soybeans,  and  other  crops  has  been  promoted.  Lespedeza 
was  inadvertently  brought  to  North  Carolina  by  Union  troops  in  hay  im- 
ported from  China. 

RALEIGH,  26  m.  (363  alt.,  37,379  pop.)  (see  raleigh). 

Points  of  Interest:  State  Capitol,  Christ  Church,  Site  of  the  Birthplace  of  Andrew  John- 
son, Joel  Lane  House,  N.  C.  State  College  of  Agriculture  and  Engineering,  and  others. 

Raleigh  is  at  the  junction  with  US  1  (see  tour  7),  US  64  (see  tour  26), 
US  15A  (see  tour  9). 

At  29  m.  (R)  is  the  North  Carolina  School  for  Negro  Deaf  and 
Blind  Children  (open  on  application  to  office),  erected  in  1931,  a  group 
of  four  red  brick  buildings  on  a  200-acre  tract. 

GARNER,  32  m.  (386  alt.,  476  pop.). 

Left  from  Garner  on  an  unpaved  road  to  POOLE'S  WOODS,  3  m.,  a  75-acre  tract  of 
giant  oaks,  maples,  and  200-year-old  pines.  This  forest,  used  as  a  demonstration  area  by 
the  State  College  School  of  Forestry,  was  preserved  by  William  H.  Poole  (d.  1889)  in  his 
will,  the  terms  of  which  gave  rise  to  a  legend  that  he  had  bequeathed  the  woods  to  his 
own  dead  body.  Neighborhood  Negroes  believe  the  wood  is  haunted. 

At  33  m.  is  the  State  Forest  Nursery,  operated  by  the  North  Carolina 
Department  of  Conservation  and  Development.  Since  its  establishment  in 
1926  the  annual  output  of  seedlings  has  reached  three  million.  The  nursery 
specializes  in  several  varieties  of  pine  and  produces  some  cypress,  white  cedar 
(juniper),  red  cedar,  and  two  varieties  of  poplar. 

CLAYTON,  42  m.  (345  alt.,  1,533  pop-)>  is  a  lumber-  and  cotton-mill 
village.  In  1747  the  Round  House  Farm  near  Clayton  was  the  site  of  the 
first  court  in  Johnston  County.  There  a  Negro  woman  slave  who  had  poisoned 
her  master  was  publicly  burned  at  the  stake.  Born  here  were:  Dr.  Herman 
Harrell  Home,  author,  psychologist,  and  philosopher;  William  E.  Dodd, 
(1869-  ),  author  of  Life  of  Wilson,  and  Ambassador  to  Germany 
(1933-37);  N.  Y.  Gulley,  professor  of  law  at  Wake  Forest  College;  and 
J.  M.  Battle,  of  St.  Louis,  manufacturing  druggist. 


TOUR    20  515 

At  intervals,  in  fields  near  the  highway  southeast  of  Clayton,  are  great, 
smooth  granite  boulders,  sometimes  in  great  heaps  with  trees  growing 
among  them. 

Between  SMITHFIELD,  52  m.  (140  alt.,  2,543  P°P-)  (see  tour  j),  and 
a  junction  at  55  m.,  US  70  unites  with  US  301  (see  tour  3). 

The  legislative  act  of  1873  providing  for  the  incorporation  of 
PRINCETON,  66  m.  (152  alt.,  509  pop.),  and  changing  the  early  name, 
Boone  Level,  devoted  three  of  its  four  paragraphs  to  prohibiting  the  sale 
of  whisky  in  the  village  or  within  2  miles  thereof. 

GOLDSBORO,  77  m.  (in  alt.,  14,985  pop.)  (see  tour  4),  is  at  the 
junction  with  US   117   (see  tour  4). 

At  78  m.  are  the  Remains  of  Earthen  Breastworks  thrown  up  in  de- 
fense of  the  city  before  the  Battle  of  Goldsboro  (1863). 

LA  GRANGE,  89  m.  (113  alt.,  1,500  pop.),  a  trading  center  with  a 
hardware-manufacturing  plant,  was  first  known  as  Rantersville  (or  Ram- 
bertsville)  and  later  Moseley  Hall.  The  latter  was  the  name  of  the  nearby 
plantation  of  Edward  Moseley  (d.  1749)  (see  edenton),  and  the  birthplace 
of  William  Dunn  Moseley  (1 795-1 863),  first  elected  Governor  of  Florida. 
No  traces  of  the  plantation  or  hall  remain. 

At  102  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  marked,  narrow  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  Grave  of  Richard  Caswell,  0.3  m.,  first  Governor  of 
North  Carolina  under  the  constitution  (1776-80). 

At  102.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  graded  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  junction  with  another  graded  road,  3.4  m.  Right  1  m.  on 
this  road  to  the  WOMAN'S  INDUSTRIAL  FARM  COLONY  {open  subject  to  regula- 
tions), a  reformatory  institution  of  the  State  prison  system  comprising  500  acres  and 
several  buildings.  The  plant,  opened  in  1929,  usually  has  about  275  inmates. 

At  102.5  m.  (L)  is  the  Caswell  Training  School  (open  subject  to  regu- 
lations), a  State  institution  for  mentally  defective  juveniles.  There  are  17 
buildings  besides  the  employees'  houses,  and  1,250  acres  of  land,  the  larger 
portion  of  which  is  under  cultivation. 

KINSTON,  104  m.  (46  alt.,  11,362  pop.)  (see  tour  2),  is  at  the  junction 
with  US  258  (see  tour  2). 

At  108  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  marked  paved  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  TOWER  HILL,  1.5  m.,  reputed  capital  of  North  Carolina 
between  1758  and  1762,  when  the  London  board  of  trade  repealed  an  act  establishing 
the  capital  here. 

The  John  Tull  House  (private)  was  originally  the  home  of  William  Heritage,  first 
settler  of  Kinston.  Subsequently  the  house  was  occupied  by  three  generations  of  Tulls. 

At  109  m.  the  highway  crosses  the  muddy  Neuse  River,  subject  to  floods 
after  excessive  upstate  rains.  In  the  river,  but  usually  invisible,  is  the  hull 


516  TOURS 

of  the  Confederate  gunboat  Neuse,  built  near  Seven  Springs  and  floated 
to  Kinston  to  be  fitted  with  armor  plate.  The  vessel,  grounded  by  low  water, 
was  destroyed  in  1865  to  prevent  its  falling  into  the  hands  of  Federal 
troops. 

FORT  BARNWELL,  121  m.  (250  pop.),  a  small  farming  village  {guide 
available  here  for  Fort  Barnwell)  is  named  for  Col.  John  Barnwell,  a  South 
Carolinian  appointed  late  in  171 1  by  Gov.  Edward  Hyde  to  command  a 
force  to  avenge  the  Tuscarora  massacre  and  to  prevent  further  uprisings 
(see  Indians). 

Left  from  Fort  Barnwell  to  the  Site  of  Fort  Barnwell,  2  m.  Near  the  fort  is  the 
marked  Site  of  the  Grave  of  Gen.  William  Bryan,  commander  of  Revolutionary  forces 
at  New  Bern. 

US  70  passes  DE  GRAFFENRIED  PARK  (R),  142  m.,  a  suburb  of 
New  Bern  named  for  the  city's  founder  (see  new  bern). 

At  143  m.  is  the  junction  with  Fort  Totten  Dr. 

Right  on  the  drive  to  Fort  Totten,  100  yds.,  a  Federal  defense  work  erected  after  the 
capture  of  New  Bern  by  Union  forces  in  1863.  Negro  churches  at  New  Bern  grew  from 
praying  bands  of  emancipated  blacks  who,  during  and  after  the  war,  met  at  Fort  Totten 
and  elsewhere  for  services  on  Sunday  afternoons.  Negro  lore  tells  of  strange  sights  and 
sounds  on  dark  nights — an  Indian  by  a  campfire;  an  aged,  shrouded  Negress  at  Reisen- 
stein's  Alley;  and  a  white-maned  horse.  From  the  dark  come  hoofbeats,  snorts  of  horses, 
and  the  tramp  of  soldiers  marching  to  ghostly  drumbeats  and  orders  of  long-dead  com- 
manders. 

NEW  BERN,  144  m.  (18  alt.,  11,981  pop.)  (see  new  bern). 

Points  of  Interest:  Smallwood-Ward  House,  Slover-Guion  House,  John  Wright  Stanly 
House  (public  library),   First  Presbyterian  Church,  Tryon  Palace,  and  others. 

New  Bern  is  at  the  junction  with  US  17  (see  tour  lb). 

JAMES  CITY,  145  m.  (10  alt.,  600  pop.),  a  Negro  village,  dates  from 
the  fall  of  New  Bern  in  1862.  Depredations  were  ascribed  to  Negroes,  and 
General  Foster,  Federal  commander  in  New  Bern,  ordered  their  segregation 
across  the  Trent.  They  settled  on  this  property,  which  belonged  to  Col. 
James  Bryan,  and  named  the  settlement  for  him.  Colonel  Bryan  succeeded 
in  regaining  possession  of  the  property  after  the  war  only  after  prolonged 
litigation. 

At  146  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  paved  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  grass-grown  Remains  of  Fort  Amory,  200  yds.  (R). 
Erected  by  Federal  troops  in  1862  as  part  of  a  mile-long  defense  works  between  the 
Trent  and  the  Neuse,  a  part  of  its  pentagonal  earthen  rampart  and  deep  moat  retains  the 
original  lines. 

At  2  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  sand-clay  old  Pollocksville  Rd. 

Right  2  m.  on  this  road  to  the  Remains  of  Trenches  used  during  the  War  between 
the  States. 

Here  are  the  Tombs  of  Richard  Dobbs  Spaight  and  Rich\rd  Dobbs  Spaight,  Jr.,  his 
son.  The  former  was  North  Carolina's  first  native-born  Governor  (1792-95)  and  the 
latter  was  the  last  Governor  elected  by  the  general  assembly   (1835-36).  These  tombs  and 


TOUR    20  517 

others  of  the  family  are  on  property  once  a  part  of  Clermont,  a  2,500-acre  estate  owned 
variously  by  the  Spaights  and  Moores.  Spaight,  Sr.,  was  killed  by  John  Stanly  in  a  duel 
in  New  Bern  on  Sept.  5,  1802  (see  new  bern). 

Madam  Mary  Vail  Moore,  whose  daughter  married  Richard  Dobbs  Spaight,  built  a 
brick  mansion  on  the  Trent  River  at  Clermont,  which  was  burned  in  1862  by  Federal 
troops  who,  according  to  local  tradition,  took  Spaight's  skeleton  from  its  tomb  and  dis- 
played the  skull  atop  a  pole.  Stories  are  told  of  Madam  Moore's  visits  to  New  Bern  in  an 
elegantly  equipped  barge,  manned  by  Negro  oarsmen  in  pretentious  livery. 

At  7  m.  Brices  Creek  (fishing  boats  at  the  bridge)  curves  through  thick  forests.  Perch 
and  robin  are  abundant. 

At  CROATAN,  157  m.  (28  alt.,  29  pop.),  a  Forest  Fire  Tower  (R) 
affords  a  wide  view  of  the  surrounding  forest  and  marsh. 

The  Self-Kick-in-the-Pants  Machine  {public  invited;  no  questions 
as\ed),  set  up  by  Tom  W.  Haywood  in  front  of  his  filling  station  in  July 
1937,  has  worn  out  four  shoes  in  its  service  to  tourists  and  citizens.  If 
you  feel  that  you  deserve  "a  good  swift  kick,"  turn  the  handle;  the  cable 
will  be  pulled  and  a  huge  shoe  laced  to  an  iron  "leg"  will  administer 
the  boot. 

Croatan  (see  tour  iA)  lies  within  the  CROATAN  NATIONAL 
FOREST  (see  national  forests),  an  area  of  cutover  timber  acquired  for 
use  in  the  demonstration  of  forest  conservation.  The  boundary  contains  five 
shallow  spring-fed  lakes,  Ellis  (Forest  Service  campground),  Great,  Long, 
Little,  and  Catfish  (see  tour  ib),  that  overflow  through  wide  seepage  areas 
to  form  the  principal  creeks.  Some  scientists  believe  that  these  lakes  were 
formed  by  meteoric  showers  that  struck  the  Carolinas  thousands  of  years 
ago;  others  say  they  were  low  spots  in  the  ocean  floor  or  the  result  of  wind 
action  when  the  area  first  rose  above  the  surface  of  the  sea. 

The  LAKES  POCOSIN  (see  tour  ib)  is  a  40,000-acre  section  of  damp, 
low  land  under  water  during  wet  weather,  extending  from  the  lakes.  Except 
where  roads  have  been  cut  and  camps  built  by  the  Forest  Service,  the  region 
is  inaccessible,  a  retreat  for  alligator,  deer,  bear,  and  wildcat. 

At  161  m.  the  highway  passes  deeply  wooded  Slocum  Creek,  where  there 
is  good  fishing  in  the  shadowy  swamp. 

HAVELOCK,  165  m.  (24  alt.,  100  pop.),  became  known  during  prohibi- 
tion days  as  a  distributing  point  for  C.C.C.  (Craven  County  Corn),  bootleg 
whisky  manufactured  in  the  woods  and  swamps. 

Right  from  Havelock  on  a  Forest  Service  road  to  ELLIS  LAKE,  8  m.,  where  a  camp 
makes  part  of  the  dense  forest  accessible.  GREAT  LAKE,  a  mile  west  of  Ellis  Lake, 
abounds  with  fish.  Bear,  deer,  and  quantities  of  smaller  game  are  in  the  surrounding 
forests.  Here  are  stands  of  age-old  cypress,  red  gum,  and  other  virgin  timber  now  so 
rare  in  the  southern  lowlands. 

NEWPORT,  172.4  m.  (20  alt.,  481  pop.),  on  the  north  bank  of  black- 
water  Newport  River,  is  an  agricultural  village.  Whitewashed  oaks  grow 
close  to  the  pavement  and  shade  old  houses.  In  late  summer  small  boys 
hawk  large,  luscious  figs  along  the  streets.  Near  his  home  in  the  village  is 


518  TOURS 

the  Grave  of  Robert  Williams,  who  made  salt  from  sea  water  during  the 
Revolution. 

At  178  m.  is  the  junction  with  paved  State  24. 

Right  on  State  24,  paralleling  the  north  shore  of  Bogue  Sound  and  traversing  forests 
of  maritime  pine  and  scrub  oak,  are  occasional  fields  of  corn  locally  called  "whisky  trees." 
At  intervals  through  the  trees  are  views  of  Bogue  Sound,  almost  choked  by  salt  marshes 
and  broad,  half-submerged  bars.  The  sand  is  pumped  from  the  narrow  channel  of  the 
Intracoastal  Waterway  by  ceaselessly  busy  dredges. 

Across  the  sound  is  the  25-mile  stretch  of  BOGUE  BANKS  or  BOGUE  ISLAND, 
dotted  with  dense  thickets  of  scrub  pine  and  myrtle.  Snowy,  shifting,  wind-blown  dunes 
have  encroached  upon  the  trees  and  shrubs  and,  in  places,  the  treetops.  This  island  is  be- 
lieved to  be  the  first  land  in  America  of  which  there  exists  a  written  description — that 
of  Verrazzano,  an  explorer  who  sighted  it  in  1524. 

At  19  m.  State  24  crosses  a  wooden  bridge  and  causeway  over  the  estuary  of  Whiteoak 
River. 

SWANSBORO,  20.5  m.  (394  pop.),  a  comparatively  isolated  fishing  village  and  small 
resort,  overlooks  the  inlet  at  the  eastern  end  of  Bogue  Sound.  This  region  was  settled 
about  1720  and  the  inlet  was  an  early  trade  outlet. 

MOREHEAD  BLUFFS,  179  m.  (18  alt.)  (R),  is  a  predepression  realty 
development  with  a  network  of  lonely  paved  streets  and  an  impressive 
hotel    overlooking    Bogue    Sound. 

Right  from  Morehead  Bluffs  on  a  dirt  road  to  Hollywood  {private),  0.3  m.,  a  low, 
rambling  seacoast  house  with  narrow  eaves.  It  is  occupied  by  descendants  of  Appleton 
Oaksmith,  reputed  slave  runner  and  assemblyman  (1874-76).  The  story  is  told  that 
he  arrived  in  a  richly  laden  sailing  vessel,  crossing  Beaufort  Bar  with  no  one  aboard  but 
himself,  his  wife,  and  a  small  child. 

At  182  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  paved  road. 

Right  on  this  road  across  a  bridge  and  causeway  to  ATLANTIC  BEACH  {hotel,  casino, 
bathhouses,  and  picnic  grounds),  2.5  m.,  a  resort  on  Bogue  Island. 

Left  from  Atlantic  Beach  on  a  winding,  hard-surfaced  road  that  skirts  white  sand 
dunes  and  culverts  thickly  grown  with  myrtle,  cedar,  and  yaupon,  to  Fort  Macon  State 
Park,  3.8  m.,  a  playground  covering  the  east  end  of  Bogue  Island.  The  Coast  Guard 
Station  (L)  has  a  skeleton  steel  Lookout  Tower  {open). 

Fort  Macox,  erected  in  1828-35  and  restored  in  1936,  commands' Beaufort  Inlet.  An 
earlier  fortification  was  built  on  the  spot  in  the  1740's  to  protect  Beaufort  against  the 
Spaniards.  The  court  is  roughly  pentagonal,  with  doors  and  windows  opening  on  cham- 
bers constructed  under  the  rampart  of  the  inner  fort.  A  deep  moat  separates  the  inner 
structure  from  the  outer  defenses.  Gun  emplacements  in  both  sections  remain.  Beneath 
the  outer  rampart  are  water-filled  dungeons.  Domed  rooms,  arches,  supports,  and  vaulted 
stairways  indicate  skillful  military  engineering. 

Fort  Macon  was  in  the  hands  of  Confederate  forces  from  the  beginning  of  the  war  until 
it  was  captured  Apr.  24,  1862,  by  Federal  troops  under  Gen.  Ambrose  E.  Burnside. 

MOREHEAD  CITY,  182  m.  (6  alt.,  3,483  pop.),  with  its  sister  city, 
Beaufort,  occupying  opposite  sides  of  the  Newport  River,  is  a  resort,  fishing 
center,  and  ocean  port.  Morehead,  as  it  is  generally  called,  is  the  more 
modern  town.  The  Atlantic  &  North  Carolina  R.R.,  nicknamed  the  Old 
Mullet  Road  because  of  the  quantities  of  mullet  formerly  shipped  over  it, 
bisects  the  broad  main  street.  Summer  cottages  are  scattered  over  treeless 
blocks   to  the  west,  separated  from  the  business  district  by  the  Promised 


TOUR    2  8  519 

Land,   shacks    and    small   houses    occupied   by    boatmen    and    commercial 
fishermen. 

Morehead  City  was  founded  in  1857  by  John  Motley  Morehead,  Governor 
of  North  Carolina  (1841-45),  as  a  land  speculative  enterprise.  Members  of 
the  crews  of  several  British  vessels  trapped  in  the  harbor  by  a  Federal 
blockade  settled  here. 

The  fisheries  and  allied  industries  of  ice  and  fertilizer  manufacture  oper- 
ate throughout  the  year.  The  menhaden  fleet  seines  for  fish  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  oil  and  fertilizer,  and  there  is  a  packing  plant  for  food  fish. 

The  Ocean  Shipping  Port  Terminal  (R),  at  the  bridgehead,  was  erected 
1935-37  with  Federal  aid.  The  1,000-foot  pier  is  easy  of  access  through  a 
11,000-foot  channel,  and  ships  can  enter,  turn  around,  and  depart  under 
their  own  power.  The  port,  built  at  a  cost  of  $2,000,000,  is  one  of  the  best 
south  of  New  York. 

From  Morehead  City  US  70  crosses  a  concrete  bridge  and  sand-filled 
causeway. 

At  185.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  side  road. 

Right  on  this  road  and  bridge  on  PIVERS  ISLAND,  100  yds.  (4  alt.),  is  the  Marine 
Biological  Station  of  the  U.  S.  Bureau  of  Fisheries  and  a  Marine  Museum  {open). 
In  the  local  waters  there  are  291  species  of  fishes,  153  species  of  decapod  crustaceans,  216 
species  of  mollusks,  and  132  forms  of  marine  algae.  Special  studies  include  the  biology 
and  cultivation  of  the  oyster,  the  propagation  of  the  diamondback  terrapin,  and  the  dis- 
tribution of  the  shrimp.  Laboratory  facilities  are  available  to  competent  independent 
research  workers. 

BEAUFORT  (bo'fort),  186  m.  (10  alt.,  2,957  P°P-)>  retains  the  charm 
and  flavor  of  an  18th-century  seacoast  town.  Narrow  streets  curve  between 
neatly  whitewashed  rows  of  spreading  oaks  and  elms.  Houses  with  narrow 
porches  and  no  eaves  front  the  sea  and  churches  with  low  wooden  steeples, 
surrounded  by  cemeteries  filled  with  weather-stained  monuments,  appear 
much  as  they  did  a  century  ago. 

First  known  as  Fishtown,  the  village  was  laid  out  in  1722  as  Beaufort, 
honoring  Henry,  Duke  of  Beaufort.  Settlers  are  believed  to  have  come  here 
as  early  as  1709 — French  Huguenots  followed  by  English,  Scotch,  Irish,  Ger- 
mans, and  Swedes.  In  171 1  the  settlers  fought  the  Tuscarora.  A  fort  was 
erected  at  Old  Topsail  Inlet  as  early  as  1712,  and  in  1755  Fort  Dobbs  was 
built  on  the  mainland.  In  1747  Beaufort  was  captured  by  Spanish  pirates, 
who  were  driven  out  a  few  days  later  by  armed  citizens. 

The  first  courthouse,  erected  in  1722,  also  served  as  the  customhouse.  The 
present  (fourth)  Carteret  County  Courthouse  (1907)  is  a  red  brick  struc- 
ture with  a  pedimented  portico  and  cupola.  It  contains  records  and  land 
grants  dating  from  1713.  Carteret  County  formed  in  1722  was  originally  a 
precinct  of  the  Great  County  of  Bath,  and  was  named  for  the  Lord  Proprietor, 
Sir  George  Carteret. 

The  Dr.  Cramer  (Sam  Thomas)  House,  corner  Turner  and  Ann  Sts., 
served  as  a  courthouse  for  many  years  prior  to  1835,  when  it  was  moved 
from  its  original  position  in  the  street  between  the  four  corners.  It  is  a  tiny 


520  TOURS 

one-story  clapboarded  structure  with  narrow  eaves  and  a  porticoed  entrance 
on  the  right. 

The  Odd  Fellows  Building,  Turner  St.,  a  two-story  brick  structure,  was 
built  about  1830  by  masons  employed  at  Fort  Macon.  Legend  says  that  the 
work  was  done  at  night  by  torchlight. 

The  Davis  House  {open),  at  the  end  of  Front  St.,  is  an  old  inn  with  relics 
on  display.  Also  on  Front  Street  is  a  Monument  to  Capt.  Otway  Burns 
(1755-1850),  privateer  commander  of  the  Snap  Dragon  during  the  War  of 
1 812  and  so  picturesque  a  figure  that  biography  is  unable  to  disentangle  him 
from  legend.  His  knowledge  of  the  coast  gained  as  a  coastwise  merchant, 
together  with  his  daring  made  him  the  terror  of  British  merchant  ships  from 
Greenland  to  Brazil.  There  is  no  record  of  the  full  damage  he  inflicted,  but 
it  was  so  great  that  the  British  Government  offered  $50,000  for  his  capture, 
dead  or  alive.  In  1814,  when  the  British  captured  the  Snap  Dragon,  he 
escaped  capture  because  rheumatism  had  kept  him  ashore. 

After  serving  in  the  general  assembly  (1821-35),  his  friend  Andrew  Jack- 
son appointed  him  keeper  of  Brant  Island  Shoal  Light,  "where  he  sank  into 
his  anecdotage,  fond  of  his  bright  naval  uniform,  his  cocked  hat,  good 
whiskey,  and  a  good  fight."  A  town  in  western  North  Carolina  is  named 
for  him. 

The  Thomas  Duncan  House,  Front  St.,  is  a  sturdy  clapboarded  structure 
of  two  stories  with  a  lean-to,  marked  by  upper  and  lower  balustraded  porches 
beneath  the  sloping  roof  on  the  front  elevation. 

The  Ernest  Duncan  House,  Front  St.,  is  a  two-story  frame  structure  with 
two  oddly  placed  dormers  and  a  pedimented  main  doorway  on  the  right  of 
the  facade. 

Legend  relates  that  in  the  Old  Town  Cemetery  an  unidentified  man  was 
buried  standing  erect.  Tradition  says  that  another  man  who  had  perished  at 
sea  was  buried  in  a  drum  of  spirits  in  which  his  body  was  placed  to  preserve 
it  on  the  return  voyage.  The  granite  tomb  of  Capt.  Otway  Burns  is  sur- 
mounted with  a  cannon  taken  from  his  privateer,  the  Snap  Dragon. 

From  Beaufort  chartered  passenger  boats  or  mail  boats  are  available  for  Cape  Lookout. 
The  mail  boat  leaves  Beaufort  at  12  m.,  arriving  at  Harkers  Island,  1  p.m.;  Cape  Lookout, 
2  p.m.;  fare  to  Cape  Lookout,  50^  one  way.  Such  boats  are  also  available  to  Portsmouth 
and  Ocracoke  from  Beaufort  as  well  as  from  Adantic  (see  tour  28A). 

To  the  south  of  Back  Sound  is  SHACKLEFORD  BANKS,  a  7-mile  sand  island.  Here 
is  the  Site  of  Diamond  City,  a  "lost  town"  of  the  19th  century  where  human  skeletons 
have  been  uncovered  by  shifting  sands.  Storm  and  tide  undermined  and  destroyed  their 
homes  and  supposedly  drove  the  few  inhabitants  to  more  sheltered  localities. 

CORE  BANKS  extend  northeast  from  Shackleford  Banks.  On  the  outer  point  where 
marsh  flats  join  the  two  is  CAPE  LOOKOUT,  12  m.  Here  is  Cape  Lookout  Light- 
house (open),  i6fi  feet  high,  distinguished  by  its  unusual  markings  of  alternate  black 
and  white  lozenges.  The  tower,  built  in  1859,  replaced  one  built  in  181 2.  A  fixed  white 
light  of  160,000  candlepower  marks  this  as  the  most  important  headland  south  of  Cape 
Hatteras  (see  tour  iA).  A  lightship  is  anchored  offshore  near  the  outlying  shoals. 

Off  Cape  Lookout  are  favorite  fishing  grounds,  since  the  natural  harbor  provides  quick- 
refuge  from  storms.  Sink  nets,  set  at  nightfall  and  pulled  in  the  next  morning,  are  used 
for  trout  and  croakers.  Haul  nets,  cast  and  drawn  back  immediately  to  the  fishing  vessel, 


TOUR    2  8  521 

are  used  for  bluefish  and  mackerel.  "Buy  boats"  purchase  the  hauls  and  take  the  fish  to 
Beaufort  or  Morehead  City  markets. 

At  187  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  a  large  log  house,  the  Beaufort  Community  Center  {open; 
recreational  facilities),  0.5  m. 

Adjoining  this  is  the  summer  Marine  Biological  Laboratory  of  the  Woman's  College 
of  the  University  of  North  Carolina. 

Extending  northeast  from  the  laboratory  is  the  Lennoxville  Rookery,  a  protectorate 
of  the  Audubon  Society,  where  thousands  of  herons  and  egrets  propagate.  During  the 
nesting  season,  April-July,  the  society  employs  a  warden  for  the  special  protection  of  the 
egrets,  which  became  nearly  extinct  at  the  hands  of  plume  hunters. 

Between  Beaufort  and  Atlantic  US  70  follows  the  western  shore  of  Core 
Sound,  curving  inland  to  avoid  salt  marshes  and  spanning  brackish  creeks 
at  narrow  points.  Along  the  docks  are  oystermen's  small  shacks  with  their 
mounds  of  shells.  Small  farms  along  the  shores  have  a  rich  growth  of  semi- 
tropical  produce.  Many  natives  go  barefoot  most  of  the  year,  and  despite 
broad  straw  hats  that  droop  like  parasols,  they  are  burned  brown  by  sun  and 
wind. 

At  192  m.  is  the  junction  with  an  unpaved  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  Merrimon,  12.4  m.  (250  pop.),  a  farm  hamlet  bordering  the 
OPEN  GROUNDS,  a  desolate  30,000-acre  stretch  of  sand  and  peat  bogs,  grown  with 
sagebrush  and  scrub  pine,  owned  by  the  University  of  Chicago.  The  land  is  now  a  refuge 
for  deer,  bear,  and  wildcats.  It  is  protected  by  a  private  game  warden. 

Between  192  m.  and  196  m.  US  70  crosses  wide  North  River  and  several 
lesser  streams  over  one-way  wooden  bridges. 

OTWAY,  196  m.  (250  pop.),  is  a  fishing  village  named  for  Capt.  Otway 
Burns. 

Right  from  Otway  on  an  unpaved  road  {impassable  in  wet  weather)  through  farm 
country  and  semitropical  woodland,  to  STRAITS,  4.2  m.  (170  pop.),  a  farm  community 
named  for  the  half-mile  strip  of  water  between  the  mainland  and  Harkers  Island.  Starr 
Methodist  Church  preserves  the  name  of  a  minister  associated  with  the  community's 
most  popular  tradition.  Legend  relates  that  during  the  winter  of  1813  the  citizens  of 
Straits  were  starving,  after  a  crop-killing  drought  the  previous  summer.  The  frozen 
sounds  prevented  fishing  and  the  Napoleonic  wars  and  a  British  blockade  made  com- 
merce and  imports  impossible.  Parson  Starr  decided  to  invoke  Divine  assistance.  "If  it  is 
predestined  that  there  be  a  wreck  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  please,"  he  prayed,  "let  it  be 
here!"  In  a  few  days  a  ship  laden  with  flour  was  wrecked  on  Core  Banks  and  starvation 
was  averted. 

A  free  ferry  transports  vehicles  1  m.  to  and  from  HARKERS  ISLAND  (1,200  approx. 
pop.).  Back  Sound  separates  the  island  from  the  banks  on  the  south  and  Core  Sound  on 
the  east.  The  island  is  about  5  miles  long  and  1  mile  wide.  Legend  says  that  Manteo, 
Indian  friend  of  the  first  white  settlers  on  Roanoke  Island  {see  tour  iA),  was  born  here. 

Because  of  their  long  isolation,  older  citizens  have  preserved  folk  customs  and  speech 
characteristics  of  their  English  forebears.  They  say  po\e  for  pocket;  consentable  means  to 
be  willing,  and  a  kiss  is  called  a  buss.  A  water  dog  is  still  the  Shakespearan  kelpie.  Hit 
is  commonly  used  for  it;  abashed  for  discredited,  and  abraded  for  nauseated.  Molasses  is 
referred  to  as  them.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  are  engaged  in  fishing.  At  Shell  Point,  on 
the  east  end  of  the  island,  is  a  huge  pile  of  oyster,  clam,  scallop,  and  conch  shells,  be- 
lieved to  have  been  put  there  by  Indians;  skeletons,  earthen  bowls,  pipes,  and  arrow- 
heads have  been  found  here. 


522  TOURS 

Between  SMYRNA,  198  m.  (150  pop.),  a  neat  fishing  village  of  shin- 
ingly  painted  houses,  and  Stacy,  US  70  crosses  Williston,  Oyster,  and  Marie 
Creeks.  It  passes  canals,  formed  by  the  excavation  of  sand  for  road  building, 
clumps  of  pine,  salt  marshes  thick  with  marsh  grass,  and  occasional  bright 
flowers  of  the  orchid  family. 

STACY,  208  m.  (610  pop.),  is  a  shipping  point  for  soft-shelled  crabs  in 
summer  and  scallops  in  fall. 

ATLANTIC,  218  m.  (685  pop.),  on  the  bluff  of  a  wide  peninsula  on 
Core  Sound,  is  a  fishing  village.  Gnarled  and  stunted  water  oaks,  wind- 
swept landward,  cluster  near  the  highway  in  the  back  yards  of  houses  facing 
the  sound.  A  little  wooden  church  (L)  nestles  in  a  grove  of  moss-grown 
dwarf  oaks.  Here  and  there  throughout  the  village  are  clumps  of  myrtle  and 
yaupon. 

Atlantic  is  at  the  eastern  terminus  of  US  70.  Mail  or  passenger  boats  are 
available  here  for  trips  to  Cedar  Island,  Portsmouth,  and  Ocracoke  (see  tour 
28  A). 


Atlantic — Cedar  Island — Portsmouth — Ocracoke;  mail  or  chartered  passen- 
ger boat.  30  m. 

Daily  mail  boat,  25  passengers,  leaves  Atlantic  1  p.m.,  stops  at  Cedar  Island  and  Ports- 
mouth, arrives  at  Ocracoke,  5  p.m.;  return  trip  leaves  Ocracoke  7  a.m.,  arrives  Atlantic 
11  a.m.  One-way  fare  to  Portsmouth,  $1.25;  to  Ocracoke,  $1.50.  Limited  accommodations. 

This  boat  trip  proceeds  north  through  parts  of  Core  and  Pamlico  Sounds. 
Boatmen  hold  to  the  channel  to  avoid  shallow  bars  and  fish  weirs.  Sharks 
sometimes  invade  the  waters  through  the  inlets,  lured  by  the  abundant  game 
fish. 

In  Core  Sound  (L)  is  CEDAR  ISLAND,  and  (R)  are  CORE  BANKS 
(see  tour  28),  where  pine,  cedar,  and  myrtle  thickets  cover  sand  dunes. 

Passing  the  twin  Wainwright  Shoals  (L)  the  course  enters  Pamlico 
Sound,  largest  island-bound,  salt  sea  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  named  for  the 
Pamticough  Indians  who  once  inhabited  its  shores.  Its  waters  yield  oysters 
and  many  varieties  of  fish. 

DRUM  INLET,  5  m.  (R),  is  important  in  maintaining  the  proper  salinity 
of  the  sound  for  shellfish  propagation.  It  was  closed  for  several  years  prior  to 
1933,  when  severe  storms  reopened  it. 

PORTSMOUTH,  24  m.  (104  pop.),  is  a  quiet  fishing  village  that  once 
had  visions  of  becoming  a  great  port.  It  was  settled  in  the  early  1700's  and 
until  1765,  when  a  hurricane  destroyed  the  great  wharves  that  lined  nearby 
Beacon  Island,  it  was  an  important  discharging  and  loading  point  for  boats 
from  many  countries.  Before  the  War  between  the  States  it  became  the  resort 
of  rich  planters.  Fort  Granville,  built  in  1753,  was  fired  by  the  Confederates 
upon  the  fall  of  Ocracoke.  The  Federals  maintained  a  prison  and  hospital 
here  until  after  the  war,  but  there  are  no  traces  of  fort,  prison,  or  hospital. 
Even  the  Coast  Guard  Station,  built  in  the  early  1890's,  had  its  garrison 
removed  in  1938. 

OCRACOKE,  25  m.  (59  pop.),  on  the  north  side  of  Ocracoke  Inlet, 
is  a  fishing  village  settled  in  the  17th  century.  Islanders  in  precarious  houses, 
coast  guardsmen,  and  sportsmen  live  peaceably  here  although  there  is  no 
civil  officer  of  the  law.  At  the  boat  landing  is  a  hotel,  a  frame  structure  built 
around  three  sides  of  a  sandy  courtyard.  Infrequent  hurricanes,  hardly  one 
in  a  decade,  strike  with  great  force.  The  village  was  inundated  in  the  storm 
of  1933. 

523 


524  TOURS 

Ocracoke  Coast  Guard  Station  {open)  was  built  in  1904. 

In  spite  of  the  evidence  against  it,  the  legend  persists  locally  that  Theodosia 
Burr  Alston  was  rescued  from  a  shipwreck  near  the  island  and  lived  at 
Ocracoke  until  her  death  {see  tour  iA). 

Ocracoke,  one  legend  says,  was  named  by  the  pirate  Blackbeard  {see  tour 
3 3 A),  who  dropped  anchor  one  day  in  the  inlet  and  before  unloading  his 
booty  surveyed  the  coast  to  make  sure  that  it  was  clear.  There  was  nothing 
to  break  the  still  stretches  of  sand  and  calm  of  the  shallow  sea.  He  suddenly 
shook  his  fist  and  yelled  into  the  unbearable  stillness,  "Oh,  crow,  cock!" 
However,  Lamb's  map  of  1676  and  Hark's  of  1680  show  an  Okok,  and 
Lawson's  of  1709  shows  an  Occacock. 

Tradition  says  a  house  in  the  village  known  as  the  Old  Pirate  House 
was  his  home  and  the  hiding  place  for  plunder.  At  Teachs  Hole,  in  the  inlet 
near  the  village,  the  buccaneer  tarred  and  caulked  his  ships.  This  was  also 
the  scene  of  the  battle  in  which  Blackbeard  met  his  fate  in  171 8  {see  tour 
33^). 

Before  the  War  between  the  States  Ocracoke  was  an  important  port  of 
entry.  In  the  1700's  large  storage  warehouses  were  maintained  here.  The 
most  famous  was  on  Shell  Castle,  a  small  island  of  shell  rock  in  the  inlet, 
owned  by  John  Gray  Blount,  merchant  prince  and  landowner.  A  pitcher  in 
the  Blount  Collection  in  the  Hall  of  History  {see  raleigh)  bears  a  sketch 
of  Shell  Castle.  Here  ships  were  loaded  with  cargoes  of  tar,  pitch,  and  tur- 
pentine, and  returned  with  staples  and  manufactured  articles.  The  captain 
of  a  Spanish  ship  once  offered  to  cover  Shell  Castle  with  Spanish  doubloons 
but  Blount  refused  to  sell  at  any  price. 

After  the  royal  Governor,  Josiah  Martin,  had  been  driven  out  of  the 
Colony,  he  wrote  the  home  government  from  New  York:  "The  contemptible 
Port  of  Ocracock  .  . .  has  become  a  great  channel  of  supply  to  the  Rebels 
while  the  more  considerable  Ports  of  the  Continent  have  been  watched  by 
the  King's  ships,"  but  concluded  that  "Commodore  Hotham  the  Naval 
Commander  . . .  will  no  doubt  take  all  proper  measures  for  shutting  up  that 
Avenue  of  succour  to  the  Rebels." 

Cattle,  hogs,  and  many  shaggy  wild  ponies  once  roamed  Ocracoke  and 
other  islands  of  the  banks.  The  ponies  are  said  to  have  been  descendants 
of  Barbary  ponies  brought  by  Sir  Walter  Raleigh's  colonists,  or  by  Portu- 
guese sailing  vessels,  but  an  old  banker  superstition  would  have  them  evolved 
from  sand  fiddlers.  Lack  of  fresh  water  on  the  banks  impelled  a  curious 
cooperation  among  the  ponies.  Gathered  in  a  circle,  they  would  paw  broad 
shallow  water  holes  in  low  spots  and  lie  prone  to  drink.  An  annual  pony 
roundup  is  held  on  July  4.  Wild  hogs,  living  in  brakes  of  myrtle  and  cedar, 
are  molested  only  by  occasional  hunters.  Channel  bass  derbies  are  held  here 
during  the  full  moon  in  June,  July,  and  August. 


Greensboro — Sanford — Clinton — Wilmington — Fort  Fisher;  US  421.  214  m. 

Atlantic  &  Yadkin  R.R.  parallels  the  route  between  Greensboro  and  Lillington. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  cities  and  towns;  tourist  homes  and  camps  along  the  route. 

Between  GREENSBORO,  0  m.  (see  greensboro),  and  Wilmington  US 
421  crosses  North  Carolina's  Piedmont  Plateau  and  the  Coastal  Plain.  The 
landscape  changes  with  the  altitude:  hardwood  forests  in  the  low  central 
hills,  cotton  and  tobacco  farms  on  the  plain,  small  truck  farms  among  the 
pine  forests  of  the  lowlands.  South  of  Wilmington  the  route  runs  down  a 
peninsula  between  the  Atlantic  Ocean  and  the  Cape  Fear  River  to  Fort 
Fisher. 

At  2  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  Alamance  Church  Rd. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  Alamance  Presbyterian  Church  (1875),  4  m.,  the  fourth 
building  erected  on  the  site.  The  first  log  church  was  built  in  1762.  In  the  graveyard 
surrounding  this  brick  structure  are  the  marked  graves  of  men  who  fell  in  the  Revolu- 
tionary War  and  of  others  prominent  in  the  early  affairs  of  the  community.  Col.  Arthur 
Forbis,  wounded  in  the  Battle  of  Guilford  Courthouse  (see  tour  is),  is  buried  here. 
Forbis  lay  on  the  field  during  the  rainy  night  following  the  battle.  A  Tory,  named  Shoe- 
maker, responded  to  an  appeal  for  water  by  thrusting  a  bayonet  through  his  leg.  Next 
morning  Forbis  was  found  by  a  Miss  Montgomery,  who  helped  him  upon  his  horse  and 
to  his  home.  He  died  about  three  weeks  later,  at  the  age  of  34.  Shoemaker  was  captured 
and  hanged  by  a  band  of  Whigs. 

LIBERTY,  22  m.  (790  alt.,  873  pop.),  in  a  prairielike  flat,  is  named  for 
the  Liberty  Oak,  no  longer  standing,  under  which  Union  officers  are  said  to 
have  celebrated  Gen.  Joseph  E.  Johnston's  surrender  in  1865  (see  tour  25). 

In  SILER  CITY,  34  m.  (598  alt.,  1,730  pop.),  are  large  Washboard 
Factories  (open).  The  first  settlement,  a  stop  on  the  stage  road,  was  called 
Silers  Crossroads. 

Siler  City  is  at  the  junction  with  US  64  (see  tour  26c). 

At  MOUNT  VERNON  SPRINGS,  39  m.  (500  alt.,  135  pop.),  mineral 
water  is  bottled  and  shipped.  One  irreconcilable  citizen  still  displays  on  his 
lawn  the  town's  former  name.  Ore  Hill. 

The  Patterson  Home  (visitors  welcome),  55  m.  (R),  is  a  two-story 
weatherboarded  house  with  hip  roof,  once  the  home  of  Charles  D.  Mclver 
( 1 860-1906),  founder  of  the  Woman's  College  of  the  University  of  North 
Carolina  (see  greensboro). 

525 


526  TOURS 

SANFORD,  59  m.  (375  alt.,  4,253  pop.)  {see  tour  yb),  is  at  the  junc- 
tion with  US  1  {see  tour  yb). 

JONESBORO,  62  m.  (431  alt.,  838  pop.),  was  settled  in  1859  by  Scotch- 
Irish.  The  town  extends  for  nearly  a  mile  along  the  highway  sheltered  by  a 
continuous  row  of  shade  trees.  The  site  of  the  railway  station  was  purchased 
for  $40  and  a  blind  mule. 

Right  from  Jonesboro  on  a  sand-clay  road  to  Shallow  Well  Christian  Church,  1  m., 
built  by  a  religious  group  that  branched  from  the  O'Kellyite  sect.  James  O'Kelly  had  led 
a  split  from  Southern  Methodism  {see  tour  io)  and  his  followers  worshiped  in  a  brush 
arbor  near  a  spring.  The  dissenters  abandoned  the  arbor,  and  about  1820  built  this 
wooden  church  with  elevated  pulpit  and  mourners'  corners,  across  the  road  on  a  pine- 
covered  hill,  and  dug  a  shallow  well  for  which  the  church  was  named.  A  cemetery  occu- 
pies the  site  of  the  old  arbor.  A  part  of  Sherman's  army  camped  behind  the  church  in 
1865. 

At  64  m.  is  Pine  Knots  (1760),  home  of  Isaac  Brooks,  widely  known  in 
early  days  for  the  hospitality  of  its  owners.  A  wooded  tract  has  been  set  aside 
for  the  use  of  tourists. 

SUMMERVILLE,  81  m.,  formerly  known  as  Toomer,  was  the  seat  of 
Harnett  County  (1855-58).  The  Summerville  Presbyterian  Church  was 
founded  by  Scottish  settlers,  many  of  whom  are  buried  in  the  churchyard. 
Though  the  church  organization  has  been  dissolved,  the  building  is  kept  in 
repair. 

LILLINGTON,  84  m.  (752  pop.)  (see  tour  9),  is  at  the  junction  with 
US  15A  {see  tour  9),  which  unites  with  US  421  between  this  point  and 
85  m.  where  US  15A  branches  L. 

At  88  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  McKay  Graveyard,  2  m.,  on  the  Cape  Fear  River,  where 
the  McKays,  McCranies,  and  Buies,  first  settlers  of  the  region,  are  buried.  Nearby  is  a 
cemetery  where  slaves  were  interred. 

BUIES  CREEK,  90  m.  (376  pop.),  is  a  town  on  a  creek  by  the  same 
name.  The  stream  was  named  for  the  Buie  family,  early  Scottish  settlers 
who  came  to  this  section  in  1746  after  the  Battle  of  Culloden. 

Campbell  College  (1887),  almost  concealed  among  the  pines,  grew 
from  the  one-room  schoolhouse  of  James  Archibald  Campbell.  Now  with  10 
brick  buildings,  its  own  farm  and  dairy,  this  coeducational  Baptist  junior 
college  has  almost  absorbed  the  town.  Paul  Green,  the  playwright,  a  former 
student,  personally  supervised  the  construction  of  the  Paul  Green  Theater. 

Until  a  few  years  ago  dreams  and  superstitions  played  an  important  part 
in  the  life  of  the  back-country  people  of  this  section,  and  conjurers  were 
held  in  high  respect.  When  a  child  was  born  the  father  announced  the  fact 
by  firing  a  gun.  Grown-ups  finished  their  meals  before  the  children  were 
served,  and  children  were  not  permitted  to  talk  while  their  elders  were  con- 
versing. To  kill  a  cat  brought  bad  luck,  so  dissenters  were  sometimes  hired 
to  dispose  of  the  surplus  felines.  If  mothers  allowed  their  babies  to  look 
into  a  well  there  would  be  difficulty  in  teething. 


TOUR    29  527 

Because  of  the  difficulty  of  getting  occasional  labor,  the  farmers  band 
together  for  corn  shucking,  logrolling,  and  hog  killing,  and  farmers'  wives 
regale  the  workers  with  brandied  cakes  and  scuppernong  grape  pies.  For 
diversion  there  are  square  dances  and  swimming,  called  "goin'-in-a-washin'." 

At  94  m.,  where  the  highway  crosses  the  CAPE  FEAR  RIVER,  ante- 
bellum citizens  were  served  by  a  ferry.  Here  once  stood  a  gallows. 

ERWIN,  96  m.  (195  alt.,  1,875  P°P-)>  is  a  cotton-mill  town. 

Right  from  Erwin  on  sand-clay  State  82  to  the  Averasboro  Battleground,  3  m., 
where  on  Mar.  15,  1865,  Gen.  William  J.  Hardee  with  6,000  Confederate  troops  unsuc- 
cesssfully  attacked  Sherman's  army. 

Oak  Grove  {open),  the  John  Smith  home  on  the  battlefield,  was  used  as  a  hospital 
by  Confederate  troops.  The  10-room  house,  with  a  chimney  at  each  end  and  a  large 
porch,  is  of  logs  covered  with  pine  clapboards.  Parts  are  held  together  with  wooden  pegs. 
Near  the  home  are  breastworks  used  during  the  battle.  The  house  was  directly  in  the 
line  of  fire,  and  one  6-inch  ball  passed  entirely  through  the  third  story.  In  this  house  in 
1866  neighborhood  women  organized  one  of  the  first  Confederate  memorial  societies, 
which,  on  May  15,  1867,  became  the  Smithville  Memorial  Association.  The  house  once 
served  as  a  station  on  the  Raleigh-Fayetteville  stage  route. 

The  William  Smith  House,  a  frame  building,  standing  much  as  it  was  in  the  1860's, 
served  as  a  Federal  hospital.  The  Union  slain,  buried  in  the  garden,  were  later  removed 
to  the  National  Cemetery  at  Raleigh. 

Chicora  Confederate  Cemetery,  enclosed  by  an  iron  railing,  is  the  burial  place  for 
55  soldiers  killed  in  the  Battle  of  Averasboro.  Markers  at  the  heads  of  the  mounds  show 
that  from  two  to  1 1  were  buried  in  each  grave. 

DUNN,  100  m.  (214  alt.,  4,558  pop.)  (see  tour  3b),  is  at  the  junction 
with  US  301  (see  tour  3b). 

CLINTON,  128  m.  (158  alt.,  2,712  pop.)  (see  tour  5),  is  at  the  junction 
with  US  701  (see  tour  5). 

At  139  m.  is  the  Site  of  the  De  Vane  Plantation  House,  birthplace 
(1782)  of  William  Rufus  King,  U.  S.  Senator  and  Minister  to  France,  who 
was  elected  Vice  President  of  the  United  States  (1853).  After  his  election 
King  went  to  Cuba  for  his  health,  where,  under  a  special  act  of  Congress, 
the  oath  of  office  was  administered  to  him.  A  few  weeks  later  he  died  in 
Cahaba,  Ala. 

At  168  m.  is  the  junction  with  improved  State  602. 

Right  on  this  road  to  MOORES  CREEK  NATIONAL  MILITARY  PARK,  5  m. 
Blankets  of  Carolina  yellow  jessamine  and  the  blue  bells  of  clematis  hang  from  the  shrubs 
along  the  edge  of  the  creek.  The  pitcherplant,  trumpet,  sundew,  and  Venus's-flytrap  are 
among  the  unusual  local  varieties. 

Here  on  Feb.  27,  1776,  the  Tory  Scottish  Highlanders  were  decisively  defeated  by 
Whigs  in  the  Battle  of  Moores  Creek  Bridge,  the  first  victory  gained  on  North  Carolina 
soil  by  American  armies  in  the  Revolution,  a  battle  that  determined  North  Carolina's  stand 
in  the  long  struggle  for  American  independence. 

On  Feb.  19,  1776,  Gen.  Donald  Macdonald  and  his  Scottish  troops,  marching  out  of 
Cross  Creek,  now  Fayetteville,  on  his  way  to  meet  Cornwallis  at  Wilmington,  were 
intercepted  at  Moores  Creek  Bridge  by  Col.  Richard  Caswell  and  Col.  Alexander  Lillington 
with  their  minutemen.  In  the  battle  that  followed  only  one  Whig  was  killed  and  one 
wounded.  The  Highlanders  fled,  leaving  50  killed  or  wounded,  including  Donald  McLeod, 


528  TOURS 

second  in  command.  Their  commanding  officer  and  Alan  Macdonald,  husband   of  Flora 
(see  fayetteville),  were  among  the  850  prisoners  taken. 

In  this  30-acre  tract  all  historic  monuments  to  patriots  and  Scots,  except  the  marker 
at  the  bridge,  are  accessible  by  automobile.  The  State  acquired  the  battleground  in  1898, 
and  in  1926  the  general  assembly  transferred  the  park  to  the  Federal  Government.  In  1933 
Moores  Creek  National  Military  Park  was  placed  under  the  National  Park  Service. 

At  182  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  117  (see  tour  4),  which  unites  with 
US  421  between  this  point  and  Wilmington. 

At  183  m.  US  421  crosses  the  Northeast  Branch  of  the  Cape  Fear  River. 

CASTLE  HAYNE,  185  m.  (20  alt.,  39  pop.),  is  the  center  for  one  of 
several  agricultural  colonies  developed  in  this  region  by  Hugh  MacRae, 
Wilmington  real  estate  operator  and  financier.  Though  the  St.  Helena  colony 
(see  tour  4)  was  the  first,  Castle  Hayne,  a  6,000-acre  development,  is  the 
most  widely  known  for  the  horticultural  achievements  of  its  50  families,  40 
of  whom  are  from  the  Netherlands. 

Between  eight  and  10  thousand  cartons  of  flowers  are  marketed  each 
season:  paper  white  narcissi,  daffodils,  tulips,  Dutch  irises,  peonies,  and 
gladioli.  Several  years  ago  when  one  of  the  growers  placed  his  bulbs  in  cold 
storage  the  temperature  was  accidentally  allowed  to  go  below  the  usual 
degree,  and  as  a  result  the  plants  bloomed  earlier.  By  this  treatment,  Casde 
Hayne  bulbs  are  made  to  bloom  at  any  time  desired.  Products  include  early 
spring  vegetables,  strawberries,  corn,  forage,  and  cover  crops,  the  soil  being 
in  productivity  throughout  the  year. 

WILMINGTON,  194  m.  (32  alt.,  32,270  pop.)  (see  Wilmington). 

Points  of  Interest:  Customhouse,  Cornwallis  House,  St.  James  Church,  Bellamy  Man- 
sion, Dudley  Mansion,  Hilton  Park,  Greenfield  Park,  and  others. 

Wilmington  is  at  the  junction  with  US  17  (see  tour  ib). 

South  of  Wilmington  on  US  421  (Carolina  Beach  Blvd.)  is  CAROLINA 
BEACH,  209  m.,  a  mainland  seashore  resort  (modern  hotel  open  June  1- 
Sept.  1;  cottages  and  apartments;  bathing,  surf  casting,  deep-sea  fishing, 
and  dancing),  with  a  normal  population  of  about  60  families.  Grounded  in 
the  sand  off  Carolina  Beach  are  several  battered  wrecks,  including  the  Venus, 
the  Lynx,  the  Hebe,  and  the  Beauregard,  Confederate  blockade  runners. 

Right  from  Carolina  Beach  on  a  road  (partly  paved)  to  the  Site  of  the  Battle  of 
Big  Sugar  Loaf,  8  m.  Here,  during  the  land  and  sea  battle  involving  Fort  Fisher,  a 
landing  party  of  Federal  troops  under  Gen.  Alfred  H.  Terry  entrenched  themselves  and 
thwarted  attempts  of  Confederate  troops  led  by  Gen.  R.  F.  Hoke  and  Gen.  W.  W.  Kirk- 
land  to  reinforce  the  beleaguered  defenders  at  the  fort.  Remnants  of  the  entrenchments 
are  visible.  Sugar  Loaf  is  the  site  of  a  camp  of  the  Coree  Indians,  established  long  before 
white  men  set  foot  on  Cape  Fear  soil.  From  this  point  the  Coree  crossed  the  river  and 
made  forays  upon  Orton  and  other  plantations  (see  tour  iC). 

Between  Carolina  Beach  and  Fort  Fisher  US  421  passes  sand  dunes  along 
the  beach;  myrtle  and  turkey  oaks  grow  with  morning-glories  and  irises  on 
what  was  once  a  battlefield.  For  two  days  and  nights  this  whole  area  between 
river  and  ocean  was  swept  by  withering  gunfire  that  preceded  the  fall  of 
Fort  Fisher. 


TOUR    29  529 

At  212  m.  is  WILMINGTON  BEACH,  a  small  coastal  resort  (surf  bath- 
ing), and  at  213  m.,  KURE  BEACH  (surf  bathing). 

Right  from  Kure  Beach  on  a  dirt  road  to  the  Ethyl-Dow  Chemical  Plant  (open; 
apply  at  office),  1  m.,  where  bromines  are  extracted  from  sea  water,  a  major  feat  in 
industrial  chemistry.  The  water  is  pumped  from  the  ocean  overland  to  the  plant  for 
processing  and  then  is  discharged  into  the  river  to  reenter  the  sea  at  a  point  about  16 
miles  from  the  original  intake.  The  bromine  so  extracted  furnishes  about  40  percent  of 
the  supply  used  for  antiknock  gasolines.  The  plant  was  constructed  in  1928  and  subse- 
quently enlarged. 

At  213.7  m.  on  US  421  is  the  junction  with  a  side  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  Site  of  Sedgely  Abbey,  0.2  m.,  an  elaborate  residence  built 
about  1726  of  coquina,  a  soft  limestone.  Near  the  abbey  site  was  Gander  Hall,  the 
Colonial  estate  of  Capt.  James  Mcllhenny,  of  which  nothing  remains  but  a  grove  of  oaks 
and  the  cellar.  It  was  so  named  because  in  1831,  when  the  price  of  goose  feathers  was 
high,  the  captain  decided  to  raise  geese  on  a  large  scale.  He  purchased  a  handsome  flock 
only  to  find  out  too  late  that  all  were  ganders.  Neighborhood  Negroes  regard  the  place 
with  awe.  On  occasions  the  ruins  have  been  searched  for  gold  supposedly  hidden  there, 
and  the  belief  is  that,  even  when  a  search  is  started  on  a  clear  day,  the  skies  begin  to  cloud 
over,  wind  moans  through  the  trees,  and  cries  and  groans  are  heard. 

At  214  m.  is  FORT  FISHER  BEACH,  on  the  Site  of  Fort  Fisher,  Con- 
federate stronghold  during  the  War  between  the  States.  The  only  remains 
of  the  emplacement  are  stretches  of  grass-grown  breastworks,  marked  by  a 
monument  to  northern  and  southern  soldiers  who  fought  in  the  battle 
(Dec.  20,  1864-Jan.  13,  1865).  The  Federal  fleet  alone,  in  two  attacks,  fired 
more  than  2,000,000  pounds  of  projectiles.  Cannon  balls  and  skeletons  of  men 
have  been  found  on  the  beach  where  the  ocean  is  washing  away  the  earth- 
works. 

South  of  Fort  Fisher  on  a  dirt  road  to  the  Rocks,  1.6  m.,  a  dam  closing  the  New 
Inlet  mouth  of  Cape  Fear  River.  From  the  Rocks  (good  fishing)  there  is  a  sweeping  view 
of  the  river's  mouth  and  of  the  Atlantic.  To  the  southwest  is  SMITH  ISLAND,  at  whose 
southern  tip  is  Cape  Fear  (see  tour  ib). 


TOUR       30 


Old  Fort — Black  Mountain — Asheville;  US  70.  26  m. 

Southern  Ry.  parallels  route. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in   towns;   inns  and    boarding  houses   maintained  by   religious  denominations  on 

assembly  grounds  (during  summer  season);  tourist  homes  along  the  route. 

This  short  route  between  Old  Fort  at  the  foot  of  the  Blue  Ridge  Moun- 
tains and  Asheville  runs  over  the  divide  and  through  a  scenic  section  that 
includes  several  summer  resorts  in  the  Black  Mountain  region.  The  grades 
of  both  US  70  and  the  Southern  Ry.  adhere  closely  to  old  Indian  paths. 

Before  1880  west-bound  travelers  started  an  adventurous  trip  at  Old  Fort 
where  the  railroad  ended.  By  stagecoach  they  crossed  the  Blue  Ridge  to 
Asheville,  described  as  "a  decidedly  civilized  place." 

West  of  OLD  FORT,  0  m.  (see  tour  26c),  US  70  begins  the  ascent  of  the 
eastern  slope  of  the  Blue  Ridge  Mountains,  twisting  almost  constantly  to 
follow  the  contours  of  the  mountainsides.  By  a  remarkable  feat  of  engineer- 
ing the  tracks  of  the  railroad  were  laid  over  the  12  miles  between  the  foot 
of  the  mountains  and  the  gap  near  Ridgecrest.  In  crossing  the  backbone  of 
the  Blue  Ridge  the  tracks  run  through  seven  tunnels  and  rise  1,070  feet. 

At  2.8  m.  (L)  is  the  Old  Fort  Picnic  Ground  (water,  fuel,  fireplaces,  sani- 
tary facilities). 

At  3  m.  is  the  junction  with  Mill  Creek  Rd. 

Right  on  this  road  to  ANDREWS  GEYSER,  3  m.,  a  fountain  that  projects  its  slender 
column  of  water  about  75  feet  into  the  air.  The  fountain  was  built  in  191 1  by  George 
Baker  of  New  York  as  a  memorial  to  Col.  A.  B.  Andrews  who  was  prominently  identified 
with  railway  engineering  in  North  Carolina. 

At  5.7  m.  near  the  crest  of  the  ridge  is  Point  Lookout  (parking  space; 
refreshment,  service  for  cars),  popular  with  motorists  because  of  its  sweep- 
ing view  of  the  ROYAL  GORGE  and  surrounding  peaks. 

At  RIDGECREST,  7.7  m.  (2,529  alt.,  100  pop.),  near  the  highest  rise 
of  the  mountain,  approximately  15,000  Southern  Baptists  gather  during  the 
summer  for  religious  conferences  and  educational  and  recreational  activities. 

At  Ridgecrest  is  the  western  portal  of  the  Southern  Ry.'s  Swannanoa 
Tunnel,  1,800  feet  in  length.  The  cutting  of  this  tunnel  in  1879,  at  a  cost 
of  $600,000  and  120  lives,  marked  the  completion  of  this  line  and  an  early 
use  of  nitroglycerine  in  engineering. 

530 


TOUR    30  53I 

Cars  may  be  parked  at  Ridgecrest  and  directions  obtained  for  the  foot  trail  to 
Catawba  Falls,  2.5  m.,  on  the  headwaters  of  the  Catawba  River.  Tumbling  in  a  con- 
tinuous misty  spray  from  five  levels  of  rock,  these  falls  are  outstanding  in  a  region  noted 
for  its  streams  and  cascades. 

West  of  Ridgecrest  the  route  descends  the  mountain.  At  9.4  m.  is  the  junc- 
tion with  the  toll  road  to  Mount  Mitchell  (see  tour  30 A). 

BLACK  MOUNTAIN,  10.7  m.  (2,366  alt.,  737  pop.),  is  a  summer  tour- 
ist center  in  the  midst  of  religious  assembly  grounds  and  vacation  resorts. 
Adjoining  Lake  Tomahawk  (boating,  swimming,  dancing)  is  a  9-hole 
golf  course.  A  small  airport  borders  the  town  on  the  west. 

At  Black  Mountain  is  the  junction  with  State  9. 

1.  Right  on  State  9  to  MONTREAT,  2  m.  (2,400  alt.,  100  pop.)  {between  Sept.  and 
July,  free;  between  July  1  and  Sept.  1 ,  Sunday  free,  one  hour  daily  free,  otherwise  35$ 
a  day.  Accommodations:  3  hotels,  boarding  houses,  300  private  houses). 

Montreat,  comprising  4,500  acres  of  forest,  streams,  and  mountains,  is  owned  and 
operated  by  the  Mountain  Retreat  Association  as  assembly  grounds  for  the  Presbyterian 
Church  in  the  U.  S.  Each  year  more  than  20,000  people  attend  the  July  and  August  con- 
ferences on  various  branches  of  church  work. 

Fronting  Lake  Susan  {water  sports)  is  Assembly  Inn,  built  of  local  granite  under  the 
supervision  of  the  Rev.  Dr.  R.  C.  Anderson,  president  of  the  association.  The  interior  is 
of  mica  flint  and  the  floors  are  of  varicolored  marble.  Records  of  the  12  branches  of  the 
Presbyterian  and  Reformed  Churches  of  the  United  States  and  two  divisions  of  the 
church  in  Canada  are  preserved  here  by  the  historical  foundation.  The  Anderson 
Auditorium,  a  round  building  of  local  rock,  seats  4,000.  Montreat  College  (for  girls), 
housed  in  a  granite  building,  offers  its  260  students  a  standard  high  school  and  two-year 
college  course.  The  summer  school  is  supervised  by  New  York  University. 

2.  Left  from  Black  Mountain  on  a  macadamized  road  to  BLUE  RIDGE,  3  m.,  southern 
conference  center  of  the  Student  Y.M.C.A.  and  Y.W.C.A.,  a  1,600-acre  mountain  tract 
owned  and  operated  by  Blue  Ridge  College,  Inc.,  a  subsidiary  of  the  Y.M.C.A.  Graduate 
School  of  Nashville,  Tenn.  Summer  sessions  of  the  graduate  school  as  well  as  inter- 
denominational religious,  social,  educational,  and  recreational  conferences  are  conducted 
here  each  season.  During  the  World  War,  2,500  Y.M.C.A.  workers  were  trained  at  Blue 
Ridge.  Since  1933  the  property  has  been  used  during  the  winter  months  by  Black  Moun- 
tain College. 

Several  smaller  buildings  surround  the  white,  three-story  main  building,  Robert  E. 
Lee  Hall,  which  serves  as  hotel  and  school.  Lake  Laurel  provides  facilities  for  swim- 
ming and  boating. 

Black  Mountain  College  (18  faculty  members,  56  students)  is  an  experimental, 
coeducational  institution  founded  in  1933  following  the  withdrawal  from  Rollins  College 
at  Winter  Park,  Fla.,  of  Prof.  John  A.  Rice.  Three  other  professors  and  15  students  fol- 
lowed Professor  Rice  to  form  the  nucleus  of  the  new  college  which  is  controlled  by  a 
board  of  fellows  elected  by  the  faculty,  and  consisting  of  six  faculty  members  and  the 
chief  student  officer.  The  aims  are  to  keep  the  college  so  small  that  no  one  person  will 
ever  have  to  devote  full  time  to  administrative  work  and,  by  integrating  academic  work 
with  community  life,  to  develop  resourcefulness  and  general  intellectual  and  emotional 
fitness. 

Students  and  instructors  associate  on  an  equal  basis,  residing  in  the  same  building 
and  working  together  in  classroom,  dining  hall,  field,  and  forest.  There  are  no  required 
courses,  no  fraternities  nor  sororities,  and  no  football  team.  Students  are  responsible  for 
their  own  work  and  conduct.  Emphasis  is  laid  upon  the  plastic  arts,  music,  and  dra- 
matics. Final  examinations  are  given  by  professors  from  other  institutions.  It  is  planned 
to  transfer  the  college  after  the  1938-39  term  to  the  recently  purchased  Lake  Eden 
property. 


532  TOURS 

At  11.7  m.  (R)  is  the  Western  North  Carolina  Tuberculosis  Sana- 
torium, occupying  modern  brick  buildings,  erected  in  1937-38  with  the  aid 
of  Federal  funds. 

State  Test  Farm  {open),  13.5  m.,  of  the  North  Carolina  Department  of 
Agriculture,  at  which  summer  field  meetings  are  held,  conducts  tests  in  soil 
fertilization,  orchard  and  vineyard  development,  and  in  raising  swine  and 
poultry.  Equipment  includes  barrack  accommodations  for  100,  dining  hall, 
and  swimming  pool. 

At  13.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  sand-clay  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  LAKE  EDEN  {swimming,  boating),  2  m.,  a  small  resort  with 
cottages,  pavilion,  and  an  artificial  lake. 

The  western  Radio  Transmission  Station  of  the  North  Carolina  highway 
patrol  is  at  14.4  m.  (R).  The  single,  300-foot  antenna  tower  is  topped  with 
a  beacon. 

West  of  the  textile  village  of  SWANNANOA,  15.7  m.  (2,220  alt.,  1,800 
pop.),  the  highway  parallels  the  Swannanoa  River. 

For  a  time  before  the  Revolutionary  War  the  Swannanoa  Valley  was 
regarded  as  a  neutral  hunting  ground  between  the  Cherokee  and  Catawba 
tribes.  In  1776  Gen.  Griffith  Rutherford,  during  his  expedition  against  the 
Cherokee,  was  so  impressed  with  the  beauty  of  the  valley  that  he  called  it 
"Eden  land."  The  trail  is  now  known  as  the  Rutherford  War  Trace. 

At  18.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  sand-clay  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  Asheville  Farm  School,  2  m.,  a  boarding  school  for  moun- 
tain boys  over  14  years  of  age,  owned  and  supported  by  the  Board  of  National  Missions 
of  the  Presbyterian  Church  of  the  U.S.A.  School  fees  may  be  worked  out  on  the  684-acre 
farm.  All  instruction  is  individual,  based  on  creative  activity  projects. 

At  19.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  narrow  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  home  of  Marsh  Owens,  100  yds.,  where  cars  may  be  parked; 
R.  from  this  point  0.2  m.  on  a  trail  to  the  side  of  JONES  MOUNTAIN.  Here  a  granite 
slab  marks  the  Grave  of  Samuel  Davidson,  one  of  the  first  settlers  in  North  Carolina 
west  of  the  Blue  Ridge.  With  his  wife,  child,  and  Negro  slave,  Davidson  came  to  this 
section  in  1784  and  built  a  house  on  Christian  Creek.  A  few  weeks  later,  while  looking 
for  his  horse,  he  was  shot  and  killed  by  a  Cherokee.  His  family  fled  for  safety  to  the  block- 
house at  Old  Fort  (see  tour  26c).  Settlers  of  the  Old  Fort  section  recovered  Davidson's 
body  which  they  buried  on  the  mountain. 

At  21.2  m.  (R)  is  Oteen  {open  subject  to  regulations),  United  States 
Veterans  Hospital,  occupying  modern  buildings  on  a  320-acre  tract.  In  addi- 
tion to  21  wards  with  beds  for  850  patients  the  equipment  includes  a 
theater,  a  library,  and  recreational  facilities.  Occupational  therapy  is  pro- 
vided for  the  patients. 

At  21.4  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  Swannanoa  Rd. 

Left  on  this  road  to  ASHEVILLE  RECREATION  PARK,  1  m.,  an  amusement  center 
and  playground  operated  bv  the  citv  of  Asheville,  and  (R)  the  ASHEVILLE  MUNICIPAL 
GOLF  COURSE  (see  asheville),  1.2  m. 


tour  30  533 

The  highway  enters  Asheville  through  the  Beaucatcher  Tunnel,  cut 
through  BEAUCATCHER  MOUNTAIN. 

ASHEVILLE,  26  m.  (2,216  alt.,  50,193  pop.)  {see  asheville). 

Points  of  Interest:   Biltmore  House,   Civic  Center,   Sondley   Library,  Grove  Park   Inn, 
Sunset  Mountain,  and  others. 

Asheville  is  at  the  junction  with  US  74  {see  tour  31c),  US  19-23  {see 
tour  21),  and  US  25  {see  tour  22). 


TOUR       30 


Junction  with  US  70— Camp  Alice;  Mount  Mitchell  Toll  Rd.  18.5  m. 

Toll  $1  per  person;  open:  north  9  a.m.-i  p.m.,  south  a-6  p.m. 

At  Camp  Alice  is  an  alternate  route  connecting  with  State  695  (see  tour  20).  If  ascent 
is  made  by  one  entrance  and  descent  by  the  other,  toll  is  $1.50.  Meals  and  lodging 
(limited)  at  Camp  Alice.  Inquire  of  Asheville  Chamber  of  Commerce  for  open  seasons 
and  condition  of  road. 

From  its  junction  with  US  70,  0  m.,  (see  tour  50),  at  a  point  1.3  miles 
east  of  Black  Mountain,  the  Mount  Mitchell  Toll  Rd.  begins  the  difficult 
twisting  ascent  of  the  Black  Mountain  Range,  which  projects  north  of  the 
Blue  Ridge  and  contains  some  of  the  highest  peaks  in  the  eastern  United 
States.  The  road  rises  more  than  4,000  feet  in  18  miles  and  is  wide  enough 
for  only  one  car,  so  no  passing  is  possible.  In  the  course  of  the  rise  are  pro- 
found climatic  changes  which  account  for  the  diversity  of  plant  and  animal 
life  typical  of  the  mountainous  district  of  western  North  Carolina. 

CAMP  ALICE,  18.5  m.,  is  at  the  junction  with  the  Big  Tom  Wilson  Rd. 
[see  tour  20);  R.  1.5  m.  on  a  foot  trail  to  the  summit  of  MOUNT 
MITCHELL  (6,684  alt-)*  tne  highest  peak  east  of  the  Mississippi  River. 

The  mountain  was  named  for  Dr.  Elisha  Mitchell,  professor  at  the  Uni- 
versity of  North  Carolina,  who  in  1835  measured  its  altitude  and  found  it 
to  be  higher  than  Mount  Washington,  N.  H.,  then  considered  the  highest 
peak  in  eastern  America.  In  1844  Dr.  Mitchell  and  General  Clingman  (see 
tour  21E  and  asheville)  made  measurements  in  the  Black,  the  Balsam, 
and  the  Great  Smoky  Mountains.  When  General  Clingman  published  a 
statement  that  he  had  discovered  a  higher  peak  than  Mount  Mitchell,  Dr. 
Mitchell  attempted  to  verify  his  own  measurements  by  running  a  series  of 
levels  from  the  terminus  of  the  railroad  near  Morganton  to  the  Half-Way 
House.  From  this  point  on  June  27,  1857,  he  started  to  Big  Tom  Wilson's 
in  Yancey  County  by  the  route  he  had  followed  in  1844,  intending  to  meet 
his  son  Charles.  After  three  days  had  elapsed  and  he  failed  to  return,  his 
son  reported  the  professor's  disappearance  and  men  set  out  to  search  for 
him.  Big  Tom  Wilson,  who  had  been  Dr.  Mitchell's  guide  in  1844,  dis- 
covered his  trail  and  found  the  body  in  a  pool  at  the  foot  of  a  waterfall,  since 
called  Mitchells  Falls  (see  tour  20).  The  body  was  taken  to  Asheville  and 
there  interred  in  the  Presbyterian  Churchyard,  but  a  year  later  it  was  re- 
moved and  buried  at  the  peak  of  Mount  Mitchell. 

Early  estimates  place  the  height  of  the  peak  at  6,711  feet.  A  subsequent 
report  of  the  U.  S.  Geographic  Board  announced  the  altitude  as  6,684  ^eet- 
Among  the  peaks  of  almost  equal  height  and  beauty  visible  from  the  tower 

534 


tour  30 a  535 

on  the  summit  are  Celo  (6,351  feet),  the  Black  Brothers  (6,620  feet),  Potato 
Knob  (6,419  feet),  and  Cattail  Peak  (6,609  feet)>  accessible  by  trails. 

Mount  Mitchell  State  Park,  at  the  summit,  covers  1,224  acres  and  in- 
cludes a  reforestation  project.  The  program  provides  for  the  addition  of 
recreational  facilities  such  as  trails  and  cottages. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  mountain  is  the  32,000-acre  Mount  Mitchell 
State  Game  Refuge  {see  tour  26c),  from  which  bear,  deer,  raccoon,  wild 
turkey,  and  pheasant  replenish  the  game  supply  of  the  surrounding  moun- 
tains. Streams  on  the  reservation  and  some  streams  outside  are  stocked  with 
trout  from  the  hatchery  maintained  on  the  State  refuge.  Within  the  reserva- 
tion are  more  than  50  miles  of  trout  streams  open  to  the  public  three  or  four 
times  each  summer  for  supervised  fishing,  upon  payment  of  a  daily  fee. 


TOUR       31 


Junction    with     US     17 — Lumberton — Laurinburg — Charlotte — Asheville; 
US  74.  320  m. 

Seaboard  Air  Line  R.R.  parallels  the  route  in  general  between  Wilmington  and  Charlotte 

and  between   Shelby  and   Rutherfordton;  Atlantic  Coast  Line  R.R.  between  Wilmington 

and  Boardman;  Southern  Ry.  between  Charlotte  and  Kings  Mountain  and  between  Shelby 

and  Rutherfordton. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Hotels  in  cities  and  towns;  tourist  homes  and  camps  along  the  route. 


Section  a.  JUNCTION  WITH  US  17  to  LAURINBURG;  107  m.  US  74 

This  route  runs  through  the  low,  swampy  Coastal  Plain  and  through  the 
thriving  Piedmont  where  cotton  and  tobacco  fields  are  broken  by  occasional 
woodlands. 

US  74  branches  west  from  its  junction  with  US  17,  0  m.,  5  miles  west 
of  Wilmington  (see  Wilmington). 

Near  MACO,  7  m.  (49  alt.),  the  ghostly,  ephemeral  Maco  Light  is  visible 
on  dewy,  moonless  nights  following  warm  days.  Some  attribute  the  phe- 
nomenon to  phosphorescent  swamp  vapors.  Others  say  it  is  the  lantern  of  a 
flagman  killed  when  his  warning  was  unheeded  by  the  engineer  of  an  ap- 
proaching train. 

Between  9  m.  and  14  m.  US  74  crosses  the  northern  neck  of  Green 
Swamp  (see  tour  $A). 

BOLTON,  26  m.  (66  alt.,  976  pop.),  in  a  low,  semiswamp  region,  has 
several  lumber  mills.  San  Domingo  is  a  settlement  of  small  landholders, 
"almost  white  people,"  of  Caucasian,  Negro,  and  Indian  blood. 

At  WANANISH,  30  m.  (58  alt.,  300  pop.),  is  a  plant  for  the  manufac- 
ture of  tools  used  in  the  turpentine  industry. 

Left  from  Wananish  State  214  makes  a  4-mile  loop  (3  miles  paved)  skirting  the  shore 
of  LAKE  WACCAMAW,  7  miles  long  and  5  miles  wide,  a  summer  resort  {limited  hotel 
accommodations;  water  sports).  Gnarled  water  oaks  and  gangling  pines  festooned  with 
Spanish  moss  border  the  lake,  at  the  eastern  end  of  which  is  an  Indian  Mound  {acces- 
sible only  by  boat).  An  Indian  legend  relates  that  once  this  basin  was  a  field  of  exquisite 
flowers,  flooded  by  an  angry  god  as  punishment  for  misdeeds.  Some  scientists  attribute 
the  lake's  origin  to  the  infall  of  giant  meteorites  {see  tour  28). 

536 


tour  31  537 

WHITEVILLE,  43  m.  (66  alt.,  2,203  P°P-)  (see  tour  5),  is  at  the  junc- 
tion with  US  701  (see  tour  5). 

From  CHADBOURN,  51  m.  (108  alt.,  1,311  pop.),  about  700  carloads 
of  strawberries  are   shipped  annually. 

BOARDMAN,  63  m.  (94  alt.,  158  pop.),  an  almost  deserted  settlement, 
was  a  busy  lumber-mill  town  of  1,500  inhabitants  before  the  removal  of  the 
mill  in  1926. 

LUMBERTON,  77  m.  (137  alt.,  4,140  pop.)  (see  tour  •?),  is  at  the 
junction  with  US  301  (see  tour  ^). 

West  of  Lumberton  US  74  traverses  the  Croatan  country  and  roughly 
parallels  the  Lumber  River  (Ind.  Lumbee). 

PEMBROKE,  89  m.  (172  alt.,  524  pop.),  center  of  the  Croatan  settle- 
ment (see  Indians),  was  named  for  the  Earl  of  Pembroke,  and  was  once 
known  as  Scufnetown.  Hamilton  McMillan,  schoolmaster  and  local  his- 
torian, who  advanced  the  theory  that  the  Croatans  were  descendants  of 
Raleigh's  Lost  Colony  (see  tour  iA),  suggested  that  Scuffletown  was  a 
corruption  of  old  English  Scoville  Town. 

These  Indians  resent  being  called  Croatans  because  it  connotes  an  African 
admixture,  but  they  have  never  been  able  to  obtain  tribal  recognition  from 
the  Cherokee  in  western  North  Carolina  (see  tour  21E).  They  were  early 
given  the  status  of  "free  persons  of  color,"  but  were  not  permitted  to  carry 
firearms,  a  prohibition  that  helped  to  precipitate  the  Lowry  uprising  during 
the  Reconstruction  period.  The  Last  of  the  Lowries,  a  Paul  Green  play  in 
the  first  series  of  Carolina  Folf^  Plays  (1922),  deals  with  that  incident. 

There  are  few  landmarks  or  survivals  of  tribal  customs,  and  the  Indians 
themselves  have  little  interest  in  their  racial  background,  history,  or  de- 
velopment, nor  has  the  field  been  thoroughly  investigated  by  outside  schol- 
ars. These  people  are  readily  recognized  as  a  distinct  ethnological  group.  Un- 
like the  usual  American  Indian,  their  features  are  soft  and  rounded.  Lips 
are  broad,  but  the  nose,  though  large,  is  neither  broad  like  a  Negro's  nor 
aquiline  like  an  Indian's.  Complexions  are  copper  to  light  brown;  hair  black, 
long,  and  straight;  eyes  dark.  The  young  women  are  often  darkly  beautiful. 

The  Cherokee  Indian  Normal  School  (coeducational),  founded  in 
1887  and  maintained  by  the  State,  trains  teachers  for  Indian  schools,  and 
has  a  high  school  department,  a  three-year  college  department,  and  a  course 
for  deaf  Indians.  The  school  occupies  16  buildings,  mostly  of  brick,  on  a 
35-acre  campus.  The  faculty  numbers  about  20  and  the  student  body  more 
than  300. 

ALMA,  97  m.  (182  alt.,  35  pop.),  is  a  farm  community  on  the  edge  of 
the  Sandhills  where  watermelons  and  cantaloupes  are  extensively  grown. 

MAXTON,  100  m.  (197  alt.,  1,386  pop.),  was  settled  by  Highland  Scots 
whose  descendants  predominate  in  the  section.  A  story  is  told  that  10  men 
answered  a  train  passenger's  "Hello,  Mac!"  shouted  from  the  car  window. 
The  weekly  newspaper  is  called  the  Scottish  Chief. 


538  TOURS 

Maxton  was  an  early  trade  crossing  between  the  Cheraw  district  and 
Fayetteville.  The  settlement  was  first  called  Shoe  Heel  (Quehele  in  Gaelic), 
from  the  course  of  a  small  stream  nearby. 

Right  from  Maxton  on  State  71  (the  Red  Springs  Rd.)  to  FLORAL  COLLEGE 
COMMUNITY,  3.5  m.,  Scotch  settlement  and  the  site  of  Floral  College,  parent  of  Flora 
Macdonald  College  at  Red  Springs  (see  tour  9).  This  school  (1841-78),  founded  by  John 
Gilchrist,  was  among  the  first  nonsectarian,  diploma-granting  women's  colleges  in  the 
South.  Only  one  building,  a  two-story  frame  structure,  now  serving  as  a  residence,  remains. 

LAURINBURG,  107  m.  (227  alt.,  3,312  pop.)  (see  tour  9),  is  at  the 
junction  with  US  15-501  and  US  15A  (see  tour  9). 

Section  b.  LAURINBURG  to  CHARLOTTE;  9y  m.  US  74 

West  of  Laurinburg  the  route  leaves  the  Sandhills  to  enter  gently  rolling 
country,  passing  through  a  region  believed  by  geologists  to  be  a  prehistoric 
ocean  beach.  The  towns,  well  shaded  by  trees,  many  of  them  fine  oaks  and 
maples,  stand  out  like  oases  on  the  plain. 

OLD  HUNDRED,  9  m.  (318  alt.,  53  pop.),  was  so  named  because  of 
the  100-mile  post  placed  here  when  the  slave-built  railroad  came  through 
from  Wilmington,  though  it  should  have  been  nearer  Wilmington. 

HAMLET,  17  m.  (349  alt.,  4,801  pop.),  is  a  railroad  center  and  trading 
point  for  peach-  and  tobacco-growing  sections. 

ROCKINGHAM,  22  m.  (211  alt.,  2,906  pop.)  (see  tour  yb),  is  at  the 
junction  with  US  1  (see  tour  yb). 

At  23.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  US  220  (see  tour  /_j). 

At  35  m.  US  74  crosses  the  Pee  Dee  River  below  the  dam  (R)  that  forms 
Blewett  Falls  Lake. 

LILESVILLE,  38  m.  (478  alt.,  496  pop.),  is  a  new  town  in  an  agricul- 
tural region  that  was  prosperous  before  the  Revolution.  Many  of  the  most 
ardent  Regulators  (see  tour  25)  were  enlisted  from  this  section.  Lumbering 
is  an  important  industry. 

The  Lilesville  Baptist  Church,  organized  in  1777,  is  one  of  the  oldest 
Baptist  congregations  in  the  State.  Here  preachers  Tirant  (Methodist)  and 
Durant  (Baptist)  debated  from  sunrise  until  dark  on  the  question  of 
infant  baptism.  The  first  log  church  was  succeeded  in  the  1840's  by  a  frame 
building  with  a  slave  shed  in  which  the  Negroes,  required  to  accompany 
their  masters  to  church,  were  separated  from  the  white  congregation  by  a 
low  wall  that  permitted  them  to  see  the  preacher  and  hear  the  services  with- 
out being  seen.  The  present  white  frame  building,  with  a  square  belfry  over 
the  small  vestry,  was  erected  in  1871. 

Right  from  the  church  on  a  dirt  road  to  MOUNT  PLEASANT,  6  m.,  site  of  the  first 
Anson  County  Courthouse,  a  log  building  erected  in  1755.  On  Apr.  28,  1768,  500  Regu- 
lators (see  tours  //  and  25)  of  Anson  County  forcibly  removed  the  magistrates  from 
the  bench   and  held   a  public  discussion  of  injustices  in  the   exaction  of  fees   and  taxes. 


tour  3i  539 

They  sent  Governor  Tryon  a  petition  demanding  the  election  of  county  officers  by  popular 
vote,  because  "no  people  have  a  right  to  be  taxed  but  by  the  consent  of  themselves  or 
their  delegates."  The  seat  of  government  was  moved  to  New  Town  (now  Wadesboro)  in 
1787  {see  tour  15b). 

The  Grave  of  Col.  Thomas  Wade  (1720-86),  Revolutionary  officer,  in  a  grove  50 
yards  west  of  the  courthouse  site,  is  marked  by  a  bronze  tablet  on  Indian  Execution 
Rock,  so  named  because  tribal  executions  supposedly  took  place  here. 

WADESBORO,  42  m.  (433  alt.,  3,124  pop.)  (see  tour  13b),  is  at  the 
junction  with  US  52  (see  tour  15b). 

Lee  Park  (swimming  pool,  golf  course,  ball  par\,  and  playground)  is  at 
69.5  m. 

MONROE,  71  m.  (595  alt.,  6,100  pop.),  seat  of  Union  County,  was 
named  for  President  James  Monroe.  The  town  lies  around  the  Courthouse 
Square,  two  of  whose  corner  wells  have  been  converted  into  ornamental 
drinking  fountains.  Great  magnolias  shade  benches  and  memorials.  Union 
County  Courthouse,  a  two-story  red  brick  building  with  arched  windows 
and  a  graceful  square  clock  tower,  was  erected  in  1886.  North  and  south 
wings  were  added  in  1922.  Marshal  Foch  spoke  from  the  courthouse  lawn 
Dec.  9,  1 92 1,  and  decorated  the  colors  of  the  5th  and  17th  Field  Artillery 
Regiments  from  Fort  Bragg  (see  tour  3 A)  with  the  fourragere  of  the  Croix 
de  Guerre  for  conspicuous  bravery  with  the  A.E.F. 

T.  Walter  Bickett,  Governor  of  North  Carolina  (191 7-21),  was  born  and 
reared  in  Monroe.  Industrial  plants  of  the  town  include  cotton,  lumber, 
knitting,  cottonseed-oil,  and  roller  mills,  marble  works,  and  a  creamery. 

The  substantial  three-story  red  brick  Town  Hall  was  built  in  1847-48 
for  use  as  the  county  jail.  A  runaway  Negro  slave  unwittingly  made  pos- 
sible its  erection.  When  captured  by  his  angry  and  drunken  master,  he  was 
dragged  the  8  miles  into  town  with  a  log  chain  around  his  neck.  His  mas- 
ter, found  guilty  of  his  murder,  pleaded  an  old  English  law,  and  escaped 
with  paying  a  fine  of  $3,000  and  $390.39  court  costs  with  which  the  county 
built  the  jail. 

Left  from  Monroe  on  State  75  is  WAXHAW,  12  m.  (645  alt.,  840  pop.),  named  for 
the  Waxhaw  Indians  who  claimed  the  land  between  the  Rocky  and  Catawba  Rivers.  The 
earliest  record  of  the  tribe  is  found  in  the  diary  (1709)  of  John  Lawson,  who  came  from 
Charleston,  S.  C,  to  survey  territory  now  included  in  North  Carolina.  Lawson  wrote 
that:  "These  Indians  are  of  an  extraordinary  Stature,  and  call'd  by  their  Neighbors  Flat 
Heads. ...  In  their  infancy  their  nurses  lay  the  Back-part  of  their  Children's  Heads  on 
a  Bag  of  Sand.  . . .  They  use  a  roll,  which  is  placed  on  the  babe's  Forehead,  it  being  laid 
with  its  back  on  a  flat  Board,  and  swaddled  hard  down,  thereon,  from  one  end  of  this 
Engine  to  the  other.  This  Method  makes  the  child's  Body  and  limbs  as  straight  as  an 
arrow  ...  it  makes  the  eyes  stand  a  prodigious  way  asunder  .  .  .  which  seems  very  fright- 
ful; They  being  asked  the  reason  .  .  .  reply 'd  the  Indian's  sight  was  much  strengthened 
and  quickened  thereby.  .  .  .  He  that  is  a  good  hunter  never  missed  of  being  a  Favourite 
amongst  the  women;  the  prettiest  girls  being  always  bestowed  upon  the  chieftest  Sports- 
Men  and  those  of  grosser  Mould,  upon  the  useless  Lubbers."  The  tribe  was  so  reduced  by 
the  Yamasee  War  of  171 5  that  they  united  with  the  Catawba. 

The  Grave  of  Maj.  John  Foster,  an  officer  of  the  Revolutionary  War  who  came  from 
Ireland  in  1765,  is  on  the  south  side  of  Waxhaw  Creek,  near  the  site  of  his  home. 

At  14  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  L.  6  m.  on  this  road  to  the  junction  with 


540  TOURS 

another  dirt  road;  L.  3  m.  on  this  road  to  the  Andrew  Jackson  Monument  on  the  sup- 
posed site  of  a  farmhouse  in  which  Andrew  Jackson  (see  charlotte)  was  born,  Mar.  15, 
1767.  The  old  boundary  line  between  North  and  South  Carolina  ran  close  to  the  house, 
but  it  was  not  until  Jackson  became  a  hero  that  the  two  States  claimed  his  birthplace. 
Jackson  spoke  of  himself  as  a  native  of  South  Carolina,  but  research  seems  to  have  proved 
that  the  McKimsey  house  stood  on  the  North  Carolina  side. 

The  region  west  of  MATTHEWS,  86  m.  (716  alt.,  454  pop.),  is  an  in- 
dustrial area,  geologically  much  older  than  the  Coastal  Plain.  There  is  no 
distinctive  flora,  but  plants  from  widely  scattered  areas  occur — yucca  from 
the  deserts  and  plains  of  the  West,  rhododendron  from  the  Appalachians, 
and  giant  prickly  pear  from  the  semitropical  South.  Cotton  growing  is  the 
principal  agricultural  activity. 

CHARLOTTE,  97  m.  (732  alt.,  82,675  pop.)  (see  charlotte). 

Points  of  Interest:  Independence  Square,  First  Presbyterian  Church,  Site  of  Confederate 
Navy  Yard,  Mint  Museum,  Martin  Cannon  Residence,  and  others. 

Charlotte  is  at  the  junction  with  US  29  (see  tour  12),  US  21  (see  tour 
16),  and  State  27  (see  tours  52  and  19 A). 

Right  from  Charlotte  on  W.  Trade  St.  into  Beatties  Ford  Rd.  At  6.2  m.  is  the  junction 
with  a  dirt  road;  L.  1.6  m.  on  this  road,  taking  two  successive  L.  turns  to  the  Capps 
Gold  Mine  (closed),  an  old  vein  operated  between  1937-39  by  a  Canadian  company. 
Company  buildings  housed  the  miners,  and  a  three-story  processing  plant  extracted  gold 
from  the  ore.  Some  veins  yielded  $150  a  ton,  though  the  average  was  less  than  $15  a  ton. 
The  shaft  drops  to  a  depth  of  410  feet.  The  mine  failed  to  yield  a  profit  and  operations 
were  suspended. 

Gold  was  discovered  in  Cabarrus  County  in  1799  (see  tour  32)  and  was  mined 
at  numerous  places  in  this  section  until  the  California  rush  in  1849. 

At  6.5  m.  is  the  McIntyre  Log  House  and  a  monument  that  marks  the  Site  of  a 
Revolutionary  Skirmish,  Battle  of  the  Bees,  known  also  as  Mclntyres  Branch  Skirmish, 
Oct.  3,  1780,  between  the  British  under  Major  Doyle  and  the  Whigs  under  Capt.  James 
Thompson  and  Capt.  George  Graham.  A  detachment  of  450  redcoats  foraging  for  supplies 
overturned  a  beehive  on  the  McIntyre  farm  and  in  the  resulting  confusion  were  routed 
by  a  handful  of  patriots.  The  log  cabin,  with  dovetailed  corners,  has  portions  of  its 
original  timbers  intact. 

At  10  m.  within  wall-enclosed  premises  is  the  Hopewell  Presbyterian  Church, 
organized  in  1763,  in  whose  burying  ground  is  the  Grave  of  Dr.  Ephraim  Brevard, 
the  Grave  of  John  McKnitt  Alexander,  members  of  the  Mecklenburg  Committee  (see 
charlotte),  and  the  Grave  of  Gen.  William  Lee  Davidson.  The  present,  rectangular, 
brick  building,  with  a  gallery  extending  around  three  sides,  was  erected  in  1828  and  subse- 
quently remodeled.  A  two-story  educational  building  stands  to  the  rear  of  the  church. 


Section  c  CHARLOTTE  to  ASHEVILLE;  116  m.  US  74 
This  route  runs  from  plains,  across  foothills,  and  up  into  rugged  highlands. 

Between  CHARLOTTE,  0  m.,  and  Kings  Mountain  US  74  unites  with 
US  29;  between  Charlotte  and  Gastonia  it  is  a  landscaped,  four-lane  high- 
way, known  as  Wilkinson  Blvd. 

At  3.2  m.  is  a  marker  on  the  Site  of  Camp  Greene  (R),  used  as  a  can- 
tonment during  the  World  War. 


TOUR     31  541 

At  4  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  paved  road. 

Left  on  this  road  is  DIXIE,  4  m.;  L.  1.5  m.  from  Dixie  to  the  Steel  Creek  Pres- 
byterian Church,  erected  in  181 8  after  four  earlier  churches  on  the  site  had  been 
destroyed  by  fire.  The  rectangular  church  of  red  brick  with  white-painted  wooden  trim 
has  Gothic  windows  and  a  large  gallery  across  the  front.  The  plant  includes  an 
educational  building,  community  house,  and  manse.  The  congregation  was  organized 
in  1762.  The  first  bench  of  ruling  elders  (1767)  of  which  there  is  a  record  includes 
Col.  Robert  Irwin  and  Zaccheus  Wilson,  members  of  the  Mecklenburg  Committee. 
Markers   show   the  names  of   13  Revolutionary   soldiers  buried  in   the   church   cemetery. 

At  6  m.  is  a  gravel  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  Wayside  Cottage  {open),  100  yds.,  a  six-room  brick  and  frame 
cottage,  headquarters  of  an  organization  working  among  shut-ins.  Founded  in  1926  by 
Harold  C.  (Old  Wayside)  Brown,  ex-soldier  of  the  British  Army,  poet,  actor,  himself 
confined  to  a  wheel  chair,  the  movement  reaches  nearly  1,000  physically  handicapped 
persons  in  all  parts  of  the  world.  Activities  include  marketing  of  articles  made  by  shut-ins, 
publication  of  a  magazine,  radio  broadcasts,  and  much  correspondence. 

At  6.2  m.  is  the  entrance  (L)  to  the  Charlotte  Municipal  Airport. 

At  10.8  m.  Wilkinson  Blvd.  crosses  the  Catawba  River  over  the  Soldiers 
Memorial  Bridge,  honoring  the  World  War  dead  of  Gaston  and  Mecklen- 
burg Counties. 

At  11  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  7. 

Left  on  State  7  is  BELMONT,  2  m.  (685  alt.,  4,121  pop.),  seat  of  three  institutions 
operated  by  orders  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church:  Sacred  Heart  Academy  (1899),  a 
girls  boarding  school  with  an  enrollment  of  100;  St.  Leo's  School  (1910)  for  boys 
between  six  and  eight  years  of  age,  with  about  100  pupils,  and  Belmont  Abbey  College, 
conducted  by  the  Benedictine  Order,  with  an  enrollment  of  200.  The  college  comprises  a 
preparatory  department,  junior  college,  and  schools  of  philosophy  and  theology.  The 
Gothic  church  with  twin  towers  has  a  Munster  window. 

Belmont  Abbey  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  Caldwell  plantation,  presented  to  Bishop 
(later  Cardinal)  Gibbons  in  1876  by  the  Rev.  Jeremiah  O'Connell  who  had  secured 
it  immediately  after  the  War  between  the  States.  A  group  of  Benedictines  came  to  establish 
a  monastery   in   what   was  then  a  wilderness. 

The  frame  chapel  dedicated  in  1877  to  Mary,  Help  of  Christians,  later  became  known 
as  Maryhelp.  A  small  brick  college  building  was  erected,  the  beginning  of  the  first 
Roman  Catholic  college  in  the  middle  South  for  the  education  of  boys.  The  mission  was 
made  independent  in  1884,  and  the  community  of  Belmont  received  the  official 
title  Maryhelp  Abbey. 

Another  honor  came  in  1910  when  Pope  Pius  X  formed  an  Abbey  Nullius  from 
eight  counties  of  the  region.  Bishop  Leo  Haid,  in  recognition  of  whose  25  years'  adminis- 
tration Belmont  Abbey  was  raised  to  the  status  of  a  cathedral,  chose  as  the  heraldic  symbol 
of  the  institution  the  fir  tree,  with  the  motto  Crescat  (Lat.,  let  it  grow). 

At  2.5  m.  is  Goshen  Presbyterian  Church,  the  first  of  this  denomination  west  of 
the  Catawba  River,  believed  to  have  been  organized  in  1764,  because  in  that  year 
the  Rev.  Alexander  McWhorter  was  sent  by  the  Synod  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia  to 
"the  back  parts  of  North  Carolina"  to  organize  churches.  The  present  frame  church  was 
built  in  1839. 

At  14  m.  US  29-74  skirts  CRAMERTON  (633  alt.,  2,000  pop.),  an  un- 
incorporated town,  whose  land  and  utilities  are  owned  by  Cramerton  Mills, 
Inc.  (display  room  and  portions  of  plant  open),  textile  manufacturers. 


542  TOURS 

At  19.3  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  paved  road. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  North  Carolina  Orthopedic  Hospital  (160  beds),  1  m., 
in  Babington  Heights,  the  only  institution  of  its  kind  in  the  State.  It  was  founded  in 
1921  by  Robert  Babington.  The  Benjamin  N.  Duke  Memorial  Ward  is  a  50-bed  unit 
for  Negro  children. 

GASTONIA,  21  m.  (825  alt.,  17,093  pop.)  {see  tour  igb),  is  at  the 
junction  with  US  321  {see  tour  igb). 

Right  from  Gastonia  on  paved  State  274  is  BESSEMER  CITY,  7  m.  (904  alt.,  3,739 
pop.),  a  textile-mill  town  in  a  valley  at  the  foot  of  Whetstone  Mountain.  The  town's 
name  honors  the  inventor  of  the  blast-furnace  steel-manufacturing  process.  At  11.5  m. 
on  State  274  is  a  marker  (L),  indicating  the  SITE  OF  TRYON  COUNTY  COURT- 
HOUSE, in  a  pine  grove  near  the  present  Tryon  High  School  building. 

Tryon  County,  named  for  William  Tryon,  royal  Governor  (1765-71),  was  formed 
in  1769  from  Mecklenburg.  The  site  for  the  courthouse,  prison,  and  stocks  was  chosen 
but  the  Revolutionary  War  intervened  and  they  were  never  built.  The  home  of  Christian 
Mauney  was  used  as  the  courthouse,  one  room  serving  as  a  jail.  Patriots  of  Tryon 
County  assembled  Aug.  14,  1775,  and  drew  up  a  set  of  resolutions,  one  of  several  that 
antedated  the  Declaration  of  Independence  at  Philadelphia.  In  1779  the  territory  was 
divided  and  Tryon  County  abolished   {see  tour  igb). 

At  25.5  m.  (L)  is  LINCOLN  ACADEMY,  a  private  coeducational  in- 
stitution for  Negroes,  founded  in  1888  by  Miss  Emily  C.  Prudden,  a  New 
Englander,  as  a  school  for  girls,  and  deeded  in  1890  to  the  American  Mis- 
sionary Society.  The  11  brick  buildings  occupy  a  tract  of  90  acres,  part  of 
which  is  used  for  experimental  farming.  The  school  offers  high  school 
and  vocational  training  to  275  students.  Since  1922  Negroes  have  com- 
posed the  teaching  staff.  The  Christian  Association  of  Negro  Colleges  uses 
this  as  a  conference  center. 

KINGS  MOUNTAIN,  29  m.  (969  alt.,  5,632  pop.),  a  textile-mill  town 
near  the  scene  of  an  important  battle  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  is  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountain  bearing  the  same  name. 

Neisler  Mills  {open  on  application  at  office)  produce  chenille  draperies, 
cotton  and  rayon  upholsteries,  jacquard  bedspreads,  China  cotton  and 
woolen  blankets,  and  table  damasks. 

At  Kings  Mountain  is  the  western  junction  with  US  29  {see  s.  c.  tour  7). 

Left  from  Kings  Mountain  on  State  161  to  a  Kings  Mountain  marker,  8.8  m.;  R. 
4.8  m.  to  KINGS  MOUNTAIN  BATTLEFIELD,  across  the  South  Carolina  Line.  On 
the  crest  of  the  ridge  (1,040  alt.),  an  86-foot  obelisk  of  white  Mount  Airy  granite  was 
erected  through  Congressional  appropriation  in  1909,  also  a  duplicate  (1909)  of  the 
defaced  slate  marker  placed  in  1815  by  Dr.  William  McLean. 

For  34  years  after  the  battle  (Oct.  7,  1780),  the  field  was  shunned  even  by  the  morbidly 
curious,  but  on  July  15,  1815,  Dr.  McLean,  a  survivor,  with  friends  and  relatives  of 
men  who  died  there,  met  at  the  battlefield  to  inter  the  scattered  bones  and  to  com- 
memorate with  a  marker  the  victory  over  the  British.  As  the  crest  of  the  mountain  was 
comparatively  bare  of  trees,  the  bright  red  uniforms  of  the  1,100  Britishers  made  easy 
targets  for  the  mountain  men  who  attacked  them  with  a  force  of  equal  strength.  The 
official  report  of  Colonel  Campbell  and  his  associates  numbered  Ferguson's  losses  as  206 
killed,  128  wounded,  and  600  taken  prisoners.  Twenty-eight  Whigs  were  killed  and 
62  wounded  {see  tour  20). 


tour  31  543 

At  39.7  m.  are  the  Cleveland  County  Fairgrounds  (R),  where  one  of 
the  largest  county  agricultural  fairs  in  the  State  is  held  annually  (Oct.). 

On  a  wooded  hillside  (L)  is  a  row  of  tall  white  columns  fronting  a  gutted 
brick  shell,  all  that  remains  of  the  hotel  (burned  in  1928)  at  CLEVELAND 
SPRINGS,  41  m.  Originally  known  as  Sulphur  Springs,  in  the  1880's  this 
was  one  of  North  Carolina's  famous  watering  places. 

SHELBY,  43  m.  (853  alt.,  10,789  pop.),  seat  of  Cleveland  County,  is  a 
textile-manufacturing  town.  The  business  district  radiates  from  Court 
Square,  whose  trees  shade  the  columned  courthouse. 

Shelby  was  named  for  Gen.  Isaac  Shelby,  leader  at  the  Battle  of  Kings 
Mountain.  It  is  the  home  of  Governors  O.  Max  Gardner  (1929-33)  and  Clyde 
R.  Hoey  (1937-  ),  and  playwright  Hatcher  Hughes,  whose  drama,  Hell- 
Bent  jer  Heaven,  won  the  Pulitzer  Prize  in  1924.  Heavenbound  is  a  musical 
pageant  written  by  Violet  Thomas,  a  Shelby  Negress. 

The  county  was  named  for  Col.  Benjamin  Cleveland  of  Kings  Mountain 
fame  (see  tours  iy  and  25).  Most  of  the  early  settlers  came  from  Maryland, 
Pennsylvania,  Virginia,  and  eastern  Carolina  between  1760  and  1820.  The 
25  textile  plants  employ  about  a  fourth  of  the  white  population.  Other  plants 
include  foundry  and  machine  shops,  and  factories  for  the  manufacture  of 
cottonseed  products  and  fertilizer.  All  the  chief  crops  of  the  State  except 
tobacco  thrive  here.  Transmission  lines  make  rural  electrification  an  accom- 
plished fact  in  this  section,  where  the  majority  of  farm  homes  are  served. 

At  61  m.  the  route  crosses  Puzzle  Creek,  and  at  61.3  m.,  the  Second 
Broad  River. 

At  FOREST  CITY,  63  m.  (869  alt.,  4,069  pop.)  (see  tour  18),  is  the 
junction  with  US  221  (see  tour  18),  which  unites  with  US  74  between  this 
point  and   RUTHERFORDTON,   70   m.    (1,096  alt.,   2,020   pop.)    (see 

TOUR  l8). 

West  of  Rutherfordton  the  route  enters  the  foothills  of  the  Blue  Ridge, 
following  in  general  the  route  believed  to  have  been  taken  by  Hernando  De 
Soto  in  1540  on  his  march  through  the  Appalachian  country.  Tales  of 
hoarded  gold  and  other  precious  metals  brought  these  explorers  into  a  re- 
gion never  before  penetrated  by  white  men. 

At  81  m.  is  the  eastern  end  of  Hickory  Nut  Gorge  through  which  flows 
the  Broad  River,  sometimes  known  as  the  Rocky  Broad  to  distinguish  it 
from  the  Second  and  French  Broads.  Along  its  banks  rhododendron  attains 
a  luxuriant  growth. 

At  the  lower  end  of  LAKE  LURE,  82  m.,  a  dam  (R),  housing  in  its 
base  a  hydroelectric  plant,  spans  the  river  channel;  it  backs  up  the  waters 
into  a  lake  which,  with  its  indentations,  has  a  shore  line  of  27  miles.  The 
lake,  a  popular  resort,  was  impounded  in  1925-26  as  part  of  a  real  estate 
development.  Within  the  basin  were  farmhouses,  a  school,  a  church,  and  a 
cemetery.  The  graves  were  removed  to  a  new  burying  place  on  higher 
ground,  a  modern  school  built,  and  the  homes  replaced. 


544  tours 

LAKE  LURE  (village)  {hotel,  golf  course,  bathing  beach,  boats  and 
launches),  87  m.  (204  pop.). 

The  long  mountain  range  towering  above  the  lake  (R)  is  known  as  RUM- 
BLING BALD,  because  of  the  thunderous  rumbling  that  sometimes  eman- 
ates from  it.  Faults  exist  among  the  rocks  and  landslips  have  exposed  caves 
high  on  the  slopes. 

Left  from  the  gardened  plaza  in  front  of  Lake  Lure  Inn  a  trail  leads  to  the  Bottom- 
less Pools,  400  yds.  (adrn.  25$).  The  path  follows  a  rocky  stream  that  winds  between 
trees  and  rhododendron.  The  pools,  below  the  cascades,  are  of  great  depth. 

The  paulownia,  a  flowering  tree  sometimes  called  the  empress  tree,  iden- 
tified by  deep  lavender  blooms  that  appear  before  the  leaves,  grows  in  this 
vicinity.  It  was  originally  brought  to  western  North  Carolina  by  George 
Vanderbilt  {see  asheville),  and  it  is  believed  that  the  seeds  were  scattered 
by  birds. 

At  88  m.  the  route  crosses  the  Broad  River. 

CHIMNEY  ROCK,  89  m.  (209  pop.),  a  village  lying  in  the  gorge  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountain,  has  shops  featuring  native  hooked  rugs,  pottery,  and 
wood  carving.  The  region  abounds  with  scenic  trails  for  hiking  and  horse- 
back riding.  Several  summer  camps  are  operated  nearby.  High  cliffs  tower 
on  either  side  of  the  Broad  River,  which  tumbles  over  and  around  huge 
granite  boulders. 

According  to  the  tale  told  by  Cherokee  aborigines,  it  was  here  that  a  clever 
medicine  man  outwitted  the  Little  People,  those  awesome  gods  of  Chimney 
Rock.  On  a  journey  through  the  only  pass  to  their  tobacco  supply  they  were 
stopped  by  strange  sights.  One  brave  warrior  volunteered  to  fight  his  way 
through  but  never  returned.  Thereupon  the  medicine  man  of  the  tribe, 
invoking  his  magic,  turned  himself  into  a  mole.  He  succeeded  in  burrowing 
his  way  through  the  gap  and  returned,  but  was  unable  to  bring  any  tobacco 
with  him.  Summoning  all  his  powers,  since  he  believed  that  many  of  his 
people  were  dying  for  want  of  tobacco,  he  swept  through  the  gorge  in  the 
form  of  a  whirlwind,  tearing  away  cliffs  and  hurling  boulders  into  the  val- 
ley. The  boulders  crushed  the  Little  People  and  the  way  was  opened.  With 
the  procuring  of  tobacco,  the  sick  were  healed. 

The  Raleigh  Register  and  State  Gazette  published  an  account  (Sept.  23, 
1806)  of  an  occurrence  in  the  gorge,  as  related  to  the  Rev.  George  Newton, 
schoolmaster  of  Asheville,  by  Patsy  Reaves,  "a  widow  woman  who  lives 
near  the  Apalachian  Mountain."  On  July  31,  1806,  about  six  o'clock  in  the 
evening  Mrs.  Reaves'  children,  startled  by  the  appearance  of  figures  on  the 
mountain,  called  their  mother. 

".  .  .  Mrs.  Reaves  says  she  went  about  three  poles  toward  them  and  with- 
out any  sensible  alarm  or  fright,  she  turned  toward  the  Chimney  Mountain 
and  discovered  a  very  numerous  crowd  of  beings  resembling  the  human 
species;  but  could  not  discern  any  particular  members  of  the  human  body, 
nor  distinction  of  sex;  that  they  were  of  every  size,  from  the  tallest  men 
down  to  the  least  infants;  that  there  were  more  of  the  small  than  the  full 


tour  31  545 

grown,  and  they  were  all  clad  with  brilliant  white  raiment;  that  they  ap- 
peared to  rise  off  the  side  of  the  mountain,  south  of  the  said  rock,  and  about 
as  high;  that  a  considerable  part  of  the  mountain's  top  was  visible  above 
this  shining  host;  that  they  moved  in  a  northern  direction,  and  collected 
about  the  Chimney  Rock." 

Robert  Siercy,  who  was  sent  for,  beheld  the  same  spectacle  and  added: 
"that  two  of  a  full  size  went  before  the  general  crowd  about  the  space  of 
20  yards;  and  as  they  respectively  came  to  the  place,  they  vanished  out  of 
sight,  leaving  a  solemn  and  pleasing  impression  on  the  mind,  accompanied 
with  a  diminution  of  bodily  strength." 

In  181 1,  according  to  published  reports,  two  troops  of  cavalry  appeared 
to  beholders,  engaged  in  battle.  This  incident  was  described  in  Zeigler  and 
Grosscup's  Heart  of  the  Alleghanies  (1883). 

The  Little  People  and  their  later  appearing  spirits  are  explained  as 
mirages.  Moisture-laden  atmosphere  moving  from  the  Coastal  Plain  might 
serve  as  a  prism,  scientists  point  out,  refracting  the  light  rays  upon  meet- 
ing the  lighter  atmosphere  at  this  sharp  break  in  topography. 

Left  from  Chimney  Rock  village,  through  a  gateway  where  clipped  hedges  and  bright 
perennial  gardens  soften  inverted  arches  and  rock  pylons,  a  motor  toll  road  (adm.:  adults, 
$1,  children  6-12,  50$)  leads  across  the  Rocky  Broad  River  and  climbs  through  a 
mountain  woodland  and  along  ridgetops  to  the  foot  of  Chimney  Rock,  3  m. 

Chimney  Rock  is  a  monolith  rising  225  feet  from  the  mountain  of  the  same  name. 
From  the  parking  place  at  the  foot  of  the  chimney,  trails  and  stairways  lead  to  the 
summit.  Along  the  way  are  platforms  and  balconies  at  vantage  points.  From  the  top  of 
the  chimney,  range  after  range  of  the  Blue  Ridge  is  visible,  with  Lake  Lure  below  and 
the  foothills  to  the  east.  The  stairway  over  the  cliffs  leads  past  the  Opera  Box,  the  Devils 
Head  (Satan  moulded  in  granite),  and  Exclamation  Point.  The  Skyline  Trail  extends 
to  the  top  of  HICKORY  NUT  FALLS  (400  feet  high)  and  back  along  the  face  of  the 
precipice  by  the  Appian  Way  to  the  base  of  Chimney  Rock. 

At  92.8  m.  is  a  narrow  footbridge  (L)  across  the  Broad  River.  Here  the 
stream,  following  a  wide  sandy  bed,  curves  sharply  among  rocks  and 
boulders,  numerous  enough  to  serve  as  stepping  stones  when  the  water  is 
low. 

Left  from  this  bridge  is  a  marked  trail  (flashlight  necessary;  guide  advisable)  up  the 
mountain  to  a  deep  rock  fissure,  the  entrance  to  a  small,  dark,  damp  chamber  whose 
exit  is  a  corkscrew  drop  through  a  pile  of  rocks.  Here  another  small  chamber,  devoid 
of  formations,  leads  into  a  corridor  sloping  steadily  downward,  beyond  which  few  have 
explored. 

To  the  L.  of  this  formation  is  Bat  Cave,  its  roof  formed  by  two  massive  boulders 
almost  meeting  in  a  peak.  The  entrance  is  30  feet  high  and  the  cave  runs  back  about 
100  feet.  In  the  hottest  weather  a  current  of  cool  air  comes  from  this  cave. 

BAT  CAVE  (village),  93  m.  (1,472  alt.,  66  pop.),  is  at  the  junction  with 
US  64  (see  tour  26c). 

Here  the  course  of  the  swift-flowing  Broad  River  branches  north  and  the 
route  runs  west,  climbing  from  the  river  gorge  by  a  series  of  hairpin  loops. 
Impressive  mountain  scenery  is  revealed  as  the  road  gains  altitude.  The 
pass  is  attained  at  Hickory  Nut  Gap,  99.7  m.  (3,000  alt.).  From  this  point 
descent  is  made  through  a  sharply  twisting  course. 


546  TOURS 

ASHEVILLE,  116  m.  (2,216  alt.,  50,193  pop.)  {see  ashbville). 

Points  of  Interest:  Biltmore  House,  Civic  Center,  Sondley  Library,  Grove  Park  Inn,  Sun- 
set Mountain,  and  others. 

Asheville  is  at  the  junction  with  US  70  {see  tour  jo),  US  19-23  {see 
tour  21),  and  US  25  {see  tour  22). 


TOUR       3     2. 


Junction  with  US   i — Troy — Albemarle — Charlotte;  US  15-501,  State  27. 
107  m. 

Moore  Central  R.R.  intersects  route  at  Carthage;  Norfolk  Southern  R.R.  parallels  between 
Biscoe   and   Wadeville    and   between   Allen    and   Charlotte;    Yadkin   R.R.    and    Winston- 
Salem  Southbound  R.R.  intersect  at  Albemarle. 
Roadbed  paved  except  on  portions  of  side  tours. 
Hotels  in  cities  and  towns;  few  tourist  homes  and  boarding  houses. 

Passing  frequent  outcroppings  of  Triassic  shale,  this  route  runs  through 
a  region  containing  coal,  talc,  and  gold,  and  an  abundance  of  pottery  clay. 
In  the  southeastern  Piedmont,  the  route  crosses  a  farm  area  and  enters  the 
industrial  city  of  Charlotte. 

West  of  the  junction  with  US  1,  0  m.,  6  m.  southwest  of  Sanford,  US 
15-501  cuts  across  Moore  County.  The  Sandhills  resorts  that  have  grown 
with  improved  transportation  and  the  demand  for  a  mild,  dry  winter  cli- 
mate, have  developed  a  section  formerly  considered  worthless  except  for 
lumber  and  turpentine. 

CARTHAGE,  12  m.  (1,129  pop.),  seat  of  Moore  County,  is  chiefly  con- 
cerned with  tobacco  and  farm  produce. 

Scottish  families  from  the  Cape  Fear  region  settled  here  about  the  middle 
of  the  1 8th  century.  In  February  1776  they  mustered  a  regiment  of  High- 
landers that  marched  to  the  Battle  of  Moores  Creek  Bridge  {see  tour  2g). 

The  modern  Moore  County  Courthouse  (apply  here  for  admission  to 
quail  farm;  see  below)  dominates  the  town  from  its  gardened  setting.  On 
the  lawn  is  a  marker  in  honor  of  a  man  who  once  worked  here  as  a  tailor, 
Andrew  Johnson,  later  President  of  the  United  States.  West  of  the  court- 
house is  a  marker  to  James  McConnell  of  the  French  Flying  Corps  (d.  1917). 
The  Memorial  Hospital  also  bears  his  name. 

Right  from  Carthage  on  a  graveled  road  11.2  m.  to  the  junction  with  a  second 
graveled  road;  R.  0.5  m.  on  this  road  to  the  Williams  Burying  Ground  near  Governors 
Creek.  Here  is  the  Grave  of  Benjamin  Williams,  member  of  the  Provincial  Congress, 
the  U.S.  Congress,  both  houses  of  the  general  assembly,  Governor  of  North  Carolina 
(1799-1802,  1807-8),  and  a  member  of  the  original  board  of  trustees  of  the  University 
of  North  Carolina. 

Continue  on  the  first  graveled  road  from  the  junction  with  the  second  graveled 
road  0.1  m.  to  the  junction  with  a  third  graveled  road.  Left  0.1  m.  on  this  road  across 
the  Deep  River  on  a  high  steel  bridge  to  Horseshoe  Farm,  a  plantation  at  a  wide  bend 
in  the  stream.  At  0.2  m.  (L)  is  the  Philip  Alston  House  (private^,  known  also  as  the 
House  in   the   Horseshoe,   a  pre-Revolutionary,   two-story   frame   house,    with    brick  end 

547 


548  TOURS 

chimneys  and  a  front  porch.  Bullet  holes  in  the  weatherboarding  are  evidences  of  the 
Whig-Tory  skirmishes  of  1780-81. 

During  his  occupancy  of  Wilmington,  British  Major  Craig  aroused  the  Highland  Scots 
and  other  Tories  until  the  region  between  the  Haw  and  Yadkin  Rivers  was  virtually 
in  a  state  of  civil  war.  Upon  one  occasion  Colonel  Alston  and  25  Whigs  were  trapped 
in  the  Alston  house  by  Tory  David  Fanning  and  his  men  {see  tours  10,  11,  13,  and  26b). 
After  brisk  shooting  Alston  was  forced  to  surrender  and  in  order  to  save  his  plantation 
from  the  torch,  signed  an  agreement  not  to  bear  arms  against  the  Crown. 

Across  the  road  from  the  Alston  house  is  a  commercial  Quail  Farm  {adm.  restricted: 
apply  at  Carthage  Courthouse),  where  hundreds  of  quail  and  wild  turkeys  are  raised 
annually. 

On  the  third  graveled  road  at  2.7  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road;  R.  0.5  m. 
on  this  road  to  the  only  Anthracite  Coal  Mine  south  of  Pennsylvania,  most  of  the 
product  being  used  locally. 

Carthage  is  at  the  junction  with  State  27,  now  the  route. 

At  13.5  m.  is  (R)  the  Grave  of  Dr.  George  Glascock,  Revolutionary 
surgeon,  son  of  Patty  Ball,  George  Washington's  maternal  aunt.  Glascock's 
murder  in  1787,  attributed  in  his  son's  affidavit  to  the  instigation  of  Col. 
Philip  Alston,  cost  Alston  his  seat  in  the  general  assembly  until  he  was 
reinstated  after  acquittal  at  a  later  trial. 

At  18  m.  is  the  junction  with  graveled  State  22. 

Right  on  State  22  to  the  "ghost"  town  of  PARKWOOD,  2  m.  (R),  buried  deep  in 
pine  woods  and  deserted  for  nearly  half  a  century  except  for  a  caretaker.  In  the 
1880's  it  was  the  flourishing  village  of  a  millstone  factory,  even  boasting  of  the  first 
telephone  system  in  the  county.  Parkwood's  main  thoroughfare  is  now  overgrown. 
Wistaria  and  honeysuckle  creep  into  the  French  windows  of  the  old  hotel,  whose  last 
guest  registered  Apr.  2,  1891.  The  factory  walls  guard  machinery  rusting  under  rotting 
shingles;  unused  millstones  lie  beside  the  stream. 

McCONNELL,  6  m.  (56  pop.),  is  the  center  of  the  Moore  County  gold  fields,  unworked 
since  about  1900  because  the  low  gold  content  made  operations  unprofitable. 

North  of  McConnell  State  22  crosses  Deep  River,  6.5  m.,  on  one  of  the  few 
remaining  high  covered  bridges,  studded  inside  with  wooden  pegs. 

At  7.8  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  graveled  road;  R.  2  m.  on  this  road  to  the  Quaker 
School  {open),  an  orphans  home  established  by  Quakers  from  Guilford  County  in  the 
1880's.  The  school  teaches  spinning  and  weaving. 

At  21  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road,  marked  Pinehurst  and  Mt. 
Carmel. 

Left  on  this  road  to  the  junction  with  another  dirt  road  at  Mt.  Carmel  Church,  4.3  m. ; 
R.  2.3  m.  on  this  road  to  the  PETRIFIED  WOOD.  On  both  sides  of  the  road  for  some 
distance  are  sections  of  wood  petrified  when  air  pockets  in  them  became  filled  with  silica. 

At  22.2  m.  is  the  junction  with  paved  State  705. 

Right  on  State  705  is  HEMP,  2  m.  (425  alt.,  100  pop),  built  on  the  old  Plank  Road 
from  Fayetteville  to  Salem,  whose  main  street  is  an  elbow  in  the  highway.  Farmers 
lounge  on  store  porches  while  their  horses  stand  hitched  at  the  curb.  In  striking 
contrast  are  the  new  houses  in  the  settlement  surrounding  Pinehurst  Mills,  which  manu- 
facture rayon.  Up  a  hill  to  the  west  of  town  are  the  older  houses  and  Elise  Academy, 
a  boarding  school  founded  in  1904. 

Time  and  progress  have  made  little  change  in  the  housekeeping,  farming  methods, 
and  customs  in  some  of  the  isolated  retjions  of  the  Sandhills  section.  Manv  of  the  homes 


TOUR    32  549 

contain  spinning  wheels  and  hand  looms  that  were  used  until  a  few  years  ago.  When 
a  woman  passes  middle  age  her  neighbors  give  her  a  surprise  party,  after  which  she 
is  no  longer  "Miz  Scott,"  but  "Lady"  or  "Old  Lady  Scott."  One  woman  in  Sheffield 
Township  (called  Shuffield)  indignantly  refused  to  eat  at  her  own  party  as  she  did  not 
consider  herself  ready  for  the  shelf.  .  ■ 

Left  from  Hemp  2  m.  on  an  unimproved  road  to  the  Gerhardt  Mine  (no  visitors 
below  surface),  the  largest  pyrophyllite  mine  in  the  world,  though  referred  to  locally 
as  a  talc  mine.  Here  the  deposit  is  200  feet  underground.  Grinding  mills  pulverize  the 
material  for  use  as  talcum  powder  and  as  a  filler  in  roofing,  linoleum,  and  fertilizer. 

BISCOE,  34.7  m.  (609  alt.,  819  pop.)  (see  tour  13),  is  at  the  junction 
with  US  220  (see  tour  13). 

West  of  Biscoe  the  route  passes  through  the  northern  edge  of  Montgom- 
ery County's  peach  belt,  crossing  Little  River  at  38.9  m.,  in  which  are 
perch,  bass,  suckers,  and  catfish. 

TROY,  41.7  m.  (664  alt.,  1,522  pop.),  is  a  town  of  unusually  broad 
streets  and  wide  lawns  where  most  business  is  transacted  on  Saturday  by 
farmers  and  traders  who  also  swap  yarns  in  the  stores.  A  rayon  and  a  rug 
factory  are  operated.  After  the  present  Montgomery  County  Courthouse 
had  been  erected  in  1921  business  failed  to  follow  it  up  the  hill  where  the 
three-story  cream-colored  brick  building  with  porticoed  entrance  stands  in 
lonely  grandeur. 

In  1844  Troy  became  the  seat  of  Montgomery  County,  formed  from  Anson 
in  1779  because  it  was  "grievous  and  troublesome"  to  go  so  great  a  distance 
to  court.  The  county  was  named  for  Brig.  Gen.  Richard  Montgomery,  who 
captured  the  first  British  regimental  colors  taken  in  the  Revolution  and  fell 
at  the  siege  of  Quebec  in  1775. 

WADEVILLE,  49  m.  (558  alt.,  32  pop.),  was  named  for  Col.  Thomas 
Wade  (see  tour  15b  and  31b). 

Left  from  Wadeville  on  State  109  is  MOUNT  GILEAD,  5  m.  (421  alt.,  1,011  pop.), 
which  serves  a  fertile  farm  area  and  the  adjoining  power  development. 

1.  Right  from  Mount  Gilead  4  m.  on  sand-clay  State  731  is  HYDRO  (50  pop.),  em- 
ployees' village  of  the  Carolina  Power  &  Light  Co.  This  little  town  of  gardened  lawns 
and  neat  houses  stands  on  a  low  bluff  overlooking  the  waters  of  LAKE  TILLERY, 
formerly  Norwood  Lake,  a  6,000-acre  hydroelectric  power  reservoir  formed  by  damming 
the  Yadkin  River.  From  the  Hydro  dam  at  the  southern  tip,  the  lake  (stocked  with 
white  perch,  bass,  and  catfish)  extends  18  miles  north  into  the  foothills  of  the  Uharie 
National  Forest  (see  tours  13  and  26).  The  Power  Plant  (open;  special  guides  for 
visitors)  generates  83,200  hp. 

2.  Left  from  Mount  Gilead  2  m.  on  sand-clay  State  731  to  the  junction  with  a  dirt  road; 
R.  0.5  m.  on  this  road  to  an  Indian  Mound,  on  a  tract  given  to  the  State  by  L.  D. 
Frutchey  for  a  State  park  and  for  archeological  research.  Elliptical  in  form,  the  mound 
rises  16  feet  and  covers  an  area  about  100  feet  square.  Archeologists  believe  that  it  is 
the  site  of  a  council  house,  probably  of  a  Siouan  tribe. 

From  the  bridge  over  Lake  Tillery,  58  m.,  is  a  view  of  Morrow  Moun- 
tain (R),  rising  above  thickly  wooded  hills. 

At  64.6  m.  is  the  junction  with  paved  State  740. 


550  TOURS 

Right  on  State  740  to  the  junction  with  an  improved  road,  1.8  m. ;  R.  3.8  m.  on 
this  road  into  MORROW  MOUNTAIN  STATE  PARK  {cabins,  picnic  and  camp  sites, 
riding  and  hiking  trails,  recreational  facilities),  a  2,700-acre  tract  in  scenic  hills. 

At  5  m.  on  State  740  is  BADIN  (3,063  pop.),  site  of  the  Plant  of  the  Carolina 
Aluminum  Co.  {portions  of  plant  open),  which  in  1936  produced  16  percent  of  the 
world's  output  of  aluminum.  Established  in  1913,  the  village  was  named  for  Adrien 
Badin,  the  French  industrialist  who  first  started  the  construction  of  an  aluminum- 
reduction  plant  on  the  Yadkin.  In  191 5  the  Aluminum  Co.  of  America  took  over  the 
town  and  the  plant.  A  golf  course  and  other  recreational  facilities  are  provided  for  the 
workers. 

Right  from  Badin  3  m.  on  a  dirt  road  encircling  a  bluff  above  the  Yadkin  Narrows 
where  part  of  the  electric  power  used  in  the  manufacture  of  aluminum  is  generated. 
Here  the  river  is  spanned  by  a  spillway  dam  210  feet  high  and  3,700  feet  long,  with  a 
maximum  water  head  of  187  feet  (20  feet  higher  than  Niagara  Falls).  Badin  Lake, 
formed  by  the  dam,  offers  water  sports. 

A  combined  output  of  136,000  hp.  is  generated  by  this  plant,  the  one  at  the  falls, 
2  miles  below  the  narrows,  and  the  High  Rock  Dam  {see  tour  12)  on  the  upper 
Yadkin,  all  operated  by  the  same  company. 

ALBEMARLE,  66  m.  (505  alt.,  3,493  pop.)  (see  tour  15b),  is  at  the 
junction  with  US  52  (see  tour  15b). 

At  83.9  m.  is  the  junction  with  a  marked  dirt  road. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  Reed  Gold  Mine,  4  m.,  where  gold  was  first  discovered 
in  North  Carolina  in  1799  (still  in  operation  in  1939).  Twelve-year-old  Conrad  Reed 
found  a  yellow  lump  in  Meadow  Creek  about  the  size  of  a  smoothing  iron.  It  was  used 
for  a  door  stop  until  1802  when  the  boy's  father  sold  it  to  a  silversmith  in  Fayetteville 
for  $3.50.  In  1803  Reed  is  said  to  have  found  a  nugget  weighing  28  pounds,  for  which 
he  received  $8,000.  The  mine's  production  between  1803  and  1845  was  estimated  at 
$1,000,000.  Unlike  most  North  Carolina  prospectors,  John  Reed  died  a  rich  man. 

The  success  of  the  Reed  mine  started  the  gold  hunt  all  over  the  Carolina  Piedmont. 
The  State  became  an  important  producer,  and  gold  mined  in  North  Carolina  between 
1799  and  1930  amountd  to  $23,672,307.  Near  the  Reed  mine  is  the  abandoned  Phoenix 
Mine,  opened  in  1856,  where  Adolph  Theis  during  the  1880's  perfected  a  chlorination 
process  for  recovering  gold  from  sulphides. 

At  100.3  m.  (R)  is  the  Wallis  Rock  House  (private),  a  well-preserved 
two-story  structure  erected  in  178-.  The  walls  and  end  chimneys  are  of  hewn 
stone,  but  in  the  rear  is  a  clapboarded  lean-to  addition.  There  is  a  design 
of  hearts  arranged  point  to  point  in  the  west  gable  end,  and  round  loop- 
holes may  have  been  used  for  rifles. 

CHARLOTTE,  107  m.  (732  alt.,  82,675  pop.)  (see  charlotte). 

Points  of  Interest:  Independence  Square,  First  Presbyterian  Church,  Site  of  Confederate 
Navy  Yard,  Mint  Museum,  Martin  Cannon  Residence,  and  others. 

Charlotte  is  at  the  junction  with  US  29  (see  tour  12),  US  21  (see  tour 
16),  US  74  (see  tour  31),  and  State  27  (see  tour  19A). 


tour     33 


Washington — Belhaven — Swanquarter — Engelhard;  US   264.  82  m. 

Norfolk  Southern  R.R.  intersects  route  at  Bunyon,  Pantego,  and  Belhaven. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Limited  accommodations  in  larger  towns. 

This  route  traverses  low-lying  country  following  the  irregular  outlines  of 
the  north  shore  of  Pamlico  River  and  Pamlico  Sound.  Swamps  make  much 
of  this  rich  land  impractical  for  farming.  FishLig  is  the  chief  occupation. 
The  region  abounds  with  game,  particularly  waterfowl. 

East  of  WASHINGTON,  0  m.  (see  tour  ib),  US  264  passes  through 
farming  country. 

At  1 1  m.  is  the  junction  with  State  92  (see  tour  33 A). 

On  the  outskirts  of  YEATSVILLE,  19  m.  (450  pop.),  is  Pungo  Creek, 
beyond  which  the  highway  passes  through  swampland,  with  the  EAST 
DISMAL  SWAMP  on  the  L.  and  HELL  SWAMP  on  the  R.  The  head  of 
Broad  Creek  is  crossed  at  24  m.,  then  Pantego  Creek  on  the  outskirts  of 
PANTEGO,  27  m.  (6  alt.,  329  pop.). 

Left  from  Pantego  on  graded  State  97  to  TERRA  CEIA,  5  m.  (36  pop.),  a  settlement 
of  Netherlanders,  where  bulbs  and  truck  produce  are  grown  at  Broadacres  Farm  (open). 
Narcissi  bloom  in  March,  tulips  in  early  April. 

The  route  parallels  Pantego  Creek  to  BELHAVEN,  30  m.  (4  alt.,  2,458 
pop.),  on  the  Pungo  River,  where  a  12-foot  channel  gives  access  to  the 
Intracoastal  Waterway.  Lumbering,  trucking,  fishing,  and  oystering  are 
the  principal  occupations. 

At  42  m.  the  route  crosses  the  Alligator  River-Pungo  River  Cut  of  the 
Intracoastal  Waterway. 

SWANQUARTER,  59  m.  (10  alt.,  223  pop.),  seat  of  Hyde  County,  is 
on  Swanquarter  Bay,  an  indentation  of  Pamlico  Sound  below  the  Pamlico 
River. 

Hyde  County,  formerly  the  precinct  of  Wickham,  was  formed  from  Bath 
County  in  1738  and  named  for  Edward  Hyde,  Governor  of  North  Carolina 
(1710-12).  Peat  bogs  abound  throughout  the  section  and  salt  marshes  bor- 
der the  coast.  Large  oyster  beds  are  in  adjacent  waters. 

The  Hyde  County  Courthouse  is  a  red  brick  structure  built  in  1850  to 
which  two  wings  have  been  added. 

551 


552  TOURS 

The  present  brick  Providence  Church  (M.  E.  South)  is  on  the  site  of 
an  older  wooden  church.  According  to  local  legend  there  was  much  con- 
troversy over  the  site  for  the  first  church.  A  public-spirited  citizen  offered 
space  in  his  yard  when  the  owner  of  the  chosen  site  would  not  sell.  In 
August  1876,  just  after  the  church  had  been  finished,  a  tidal  wave  swept 
over  the  fan-shaped  bay  into  the  village.  In  answer  to  prayers  of  a  young 
ministerial  student  for  Providential  intervention  to  make  the  better  site 
available,  the  church  was  floated  across  the  main  street  to  the  spot  first 
selected.  Early  next  morning  the  lot  owner  was  at  the  courthouse  eager  to 
give  the  church  a  deed  to  the  property,  convinced  that  it  was  holy  ground. 
The  church,  then  named  Providence,  was  the  only  building  moved  by  the 
storm. 

East  of  Swanquarter  the  highway  parallels  the  south  shore  of  LAKE 
MATTAMUSKEET  (bass  fishing)  within  the  U.  S.  Biological  Survey's 
50,000-acre  Lake  Mattamuskeet  Wildlife  Refuge.  Several  attempts  to 
pump  off  the  water  from  this  lake,  which  is  below  sea  level  and  on  submar- 
ginal  land,  were  not  only  unsuccessful  but  also  drove  away  the  great  number 
of  geese  and  swans  accustomed  to  winter  here.  After  the  Government's  pur- 
chase of  this  area  in  1934,  the  pump  house  was  converted  into  an  administra- 
tion building  and  many  acres  of  grain  and  duck  foods  were  planted  to  attract 
both  upland  game  birds  and  waterfowl.  In  addition  to  geese,  ducks,  and 
swans,  the  area  contains  egrets,  herons,  terns,  loons,  grebes,  cormorants,  bit- 
terns, eagles,  ospreys,  sandpipers,  gulls,  and  quail.  Two  areas  of  approxi- 
mately 5,000  acres  each  adjoining  the  lake  have  been  set  aside  as  public 
shooting  grounds,  operated  seasonally  by  the  North  Carolina  Department 
of  Conservation  and  Development. 

NEW  HOLLAND,  67  m.  (in  pop.),  was  built  while  the  process  of 
reclamation  was  under  way,  upon  land  lying  below  the  level  of  the  water 
that  once  covered  it.  The  only  railroad  ever  built  in  Hyde  County,  the  New 
Holland,  Higginsport,  &  Mt.  Vernon,  was  run  to  the  town  but  was  later 
abandoned.  Since  the  Federal  Government  assumed  charge,  the  houses 
were  moved  to  higher  ground,  and  the  128-foot  smokestack  was  made  into 
an  observation  tower. 

LAKE  LANDING,  73  m.  (10  pop.),  on  Lake  Mattamuskeet,  is  a  hunt- 
ing and  fishing  center.  An  octagonal  Ink  Bottle  House  (private),  two 
stories,  with  shingled  walls  and  the  chimney  in  the  center  of  the  building, 
was  erected  for  a  residence  before  i860. 

ENGELHARD,  82  m.  (4  alt.,  340  pop.),  on  Pamlico  Sound,  at  the  east- 
ern terminus  of  US  264,  is  a  village  of  many  canals.  Thousands  of  truck- 
loads  of  fish  are  shipped  from  this  point  annually. 

From  Engelhard  a  graded  dirt  road  runs  northeast  through  low  swampland  to 
STUMPY  POINT,  30  m.  (4  alt.,  216  pop.),  an  isolated  fishing  village  lying  like  a  half- 
moon  around  its  bay.  More  fish  are  caught  here  than  at  any  other  place  on  the  North 
Carolina  coast,  some  3,000,000  pounds  being  shipped  annually.  Through  a  cooperative 
organization  known  as  the  Fishermen's  Exchange,  the  men  of  Stumpy  Point  operate  their 
own  packing  house.  Goose  and  brant  hunting  attracts  sportsmen  in  season. 


TOUR       3     3    A 


Junction  with  US  264 — Bath — Bay  view;  State  92.  10  m. 

Roadbed  paved  throughout. 

Limited  accommodations  at  Bath,  also  at  Bayview  during  spring  and  summer  seasons. 

This  route,  passing  through  farm  land,  connects  the  old  village  of  Bath 
with  Bayview,  a  resort  on  the  Pamlico  River. 

State  92,  branching  southeast  from  US  264,  0  m.,  1 1  miles  east  of  Wash- 
ington, passes  well-kept  farms  interspersed  with  pine  woods. 

At  1.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  dirt  Camp  Leach  Rd. 

Right  on  this  road  to  a  footpath,  300  yds.;  L.  about  30  paces  on  this  path  to  the 
Magic  Horse  Tracks  in  a  little  hollow.  Tradition  relates  that  on  Aug.  19,  18 13,  Jesse 
Elliott  rode  off  to  enter  his  horse  in  a  Sunday  race.  When  warned  by  church  members 
against  violating  the  Sabbath  he  retorted:  "I'll  ride,  though  I  ride  to  Hell."  Here  he  was 
thrown  and  killed  by  his  horse  whose  hoofprints  supposedly  restore  themselves  when 
covered  with  earth. 

At  5.5  m.  is  the  junction  with  the  dirt  Archbells  Point  Rd. 

Right  on  this  road  to  the  Site  of  Eden's  Palace,  2  m.,  near  the  mouth  of  Bath  Creek. 
The  tract  is  known  also  as  the  Beaseley  Place  and  the  House  of  Governors.  One  old  ram- 
shackle house,  the  Bryan  Place,  built  in  1720,  stands  unoccupied  and  in  disrepair.  Some 
believe  this  to  be  a  remnant  of  the  palace. 

Charles  Eden  was  Governor  of  the  Province  from  1714  until  his  death  in  1722  (see 
edenton),  and  for  a  time  maintained  his  capital  at  Bath.  It  is  said  that  the  town 
once  served  as  headquarters  of  the  pirate  Blackbeard  (see  tour  28 A),  whose  house  and 
base  of  operations  were  at  Plum  Point,  across  the  creek  from  Eden's  home.  Legend 
relates  that  a  subterranean  passage  was  cut  from  the  palace  to  the  steep  bank  of  the 
creek,  through  which,  in  complicity  with  the  pirate,  Eden  and  his  secretary,  Tobias 
Knight,  shared  the  pirate's  plunder.  Knight  was  tried  for  improper  dealings  with  Black- 
beard,  and  though  acquitted,  lost  face.  His  accusers  were  unable  to  prove  that  Eden 
was  implicated,  and  his  defenders  contend  that  the  accusations  were  made  by  political 
enemies. 

Legend  says  that  Blackbeard  came  to  Bath  after  having  taken  advantage  of  the  offer 
of  pardon  extended  by  Britain's  King  to  all  pirates  who  would  surrender  themselves 
and  agree  to  abandon  piracy.  Blackbeard  is  said  to  have  paid  unsuccessful  court  to  the 
daughter  of  Governor  Eden,  who  was  at  the  time  engaged  to  another  man.  Incensed 
by  his  rejection,  Blackbeard  captured  his  rival,  put  off  to  sea,  cut  off  one  of  his 
prisoner's  hands,  and  had  the  young  man  hurled  into  the  sea.  The  hand  was  sent 
in  a  silver  casket  to  Miss  Eden,  who  languished  and  died. 

Subsequently  the  pirate  married  a  young  girl,  reputed  to  have  been  his  thirteenth 
wife,  and  settled  in  Edenton.  He  soon  slipped  into  his  piratical  ways,  whereupon  the 
townspeople  called  upon  Governor  Eden  for  action.  The  Governor  failed  to  respond,  so 
the  appeal  was  taken  to  Governor  Spottswood  of  Virginia,  who  offered  a  reward  of  X100 
for  the  pirate's  capture.  Learning  that  Blackbeard  was  in  Pamlico  Sound  near  Ocracoke 

553 


554  tours 

Inlet,  Lt.  Robert  Maynard  of  the  Royal  Navy  came  down  from  Hampton  Roads,  Va., 
with  two  small  ships,  sought  him  out  and  engaged  him  in  battle,  Nov.  22,  171 8. 
Blackbeard  was  killed  in  personal  combat  with  Maynard,  who  cut  off  the  pirate's  head, 
fastened  it  to  the  bowsprit  of  his  ship,  and  sailed  back  to  Bath  where  there  was  great 
rejoicing. 

BATH,  6  m.  (9  alt.,  361  pop.),  is  the  oldest  town  in  North  Carolina,  and 
onetime  capital  of  the  Province.  This  riverside  village  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  little  peninsula  formed  by  Bath  and  Back  Creeks,  whose  inhabitants  are 
engaged  in  fishing  and  agriculture,  has  changed  little  in  the  last  century. 
Everywhere  are  houses  old  a  hundred  years  ago  and  new  only  when  Gov- 
ernor Eden  occupied  his  palace.  The  highway  runs  along  the  Main  Street 
where  telephone  and  power-line  poles  are  20th-century  anachronisms. 

From  the  south  end  of  Main  Street  is  a  view  of  the  mouth  of  Bath  Creek, 
opening  into  the  broad,  blue  Pamlico  River.  Along  the  banks  of  the  creek 
are  piles  of  stone,  ballast  rock  from  ships  of  early  colonists. 

In  1739  George  Whitfield,  preacher  and  evangelist,  wrote  from  Bath:  "I 
am  here,  hunting  in  the  woods,  these  ungospelized  wilds  for  sinners."  An- 
gered by  the  refusal  of  lodging,  Whitfield  is  said  to  have  walked  outside  the 
town  and  invoked  the  curse  of  Heaven  upon  the  place  and  its  inhabitants. 
Some  contend  that  since  that  time  it  has  failed  to  prosper. 

Bath  was  originally  called  the  Town  of  Pamticoe  (or  Pamticough)  on 
Old  Town  Creek.  This  Indian  word  survives  in  the  name  of  the  neighboring 
county,  river,  and  sound.  In  the  late  17th  century  an  epidemic  of  smallpox 
among  the  Indians  along  the  Pamlico  River  so  reduced  their  number  that 
the  way  was  cleared  for  white  settlers.  The  first  of  these  were  French  Prot- 
estants from  Europe,  seeking  religious  liberty.  They  were  followed  by  colo- 
nists from  the  upper  Albemarle  and  from  Virginia,  who  settled  along  the 
river  as  early  as  1690. 

The  town  was  the  seat  of  old  Bath  County,  named  for  the  Earl  of  Bath, 
one  of  the  Lords  Proprietors,  until  1738  when  Bath  County  was  divided  and 
the  town  became  the  seat  of  Beaufort  County.  In  1785  the  county  seat  was 
moved  to  Washington.  The  village  was  a  point  of  attack  in  the  Tuscarora 
massacre  of  Sept.  22,  1711.  For  30  years  thereafter,  by  act  of  the  assembly, 
the  anniversary  was  observed  as  a  day  of  fasting  and  prayer. 

Characteristic  of  the  early  architecture  is  the  facework  on  some  of  the 
buildings  of  diagonal  sheathing;  that  on  the  R.  slants  downward  to  the  L., 
and  vice  versa,  converging  at  a  perpendicular  line  in  the  center. 

The  Town  Marker  (L),  on  Main  St.,  is  a  stone  monument  commemorat- 
ing the  historical  importance  of  the  town.  Bath  was  formally  laid  off  in  1704 
by  John  Lawson,  surveyor  general  to  the  Crown,  who  with  Joel  Martin  and 
Simon  Alderson  were  its  founders.  When  incorporated  Mar.  8,  1705,  at  a 
meeting  of  the  assembly  held  at  the  house  of  Capt.  John  Hecklefield  on 
Little  River  (see  tour  ia),  Bath  contained  12  houses. 

The  Marsh  House  (L),  on  Main  St.,  now  the  Bath  Hotel,  was  built, 
some  claim,  in  1730,  and  if  so  would  be  the  oldest  building  in  the  town. 
Others  contend  that  it  was  erected  in  1744  by  M.  Cataunch  for  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Whitemore.  Jonathan  Marsh,  shipping  master,  acquired  it  after  the  White- 
mores  left  because  of  the  tragic  death  of  their  niece,  Mrs.  Mary  Evans,  who 


tour  33A  555 

is  buried  back  of  the  house  under  a  Soapstone  Marker  bearing  her  carved 
likeness  and  verses  about  her  charms  and  virtues. 

Although  front  porches  and  columns  have  been  added  and  the  small- 
paned  windows  have  been  replaced  with  modern  sashes,  the  structure  is  well 
preserved.  Its  most  curious  feature  is  a  brick  end  chimney,  17  feet  across  at 
the  base  and  4  feet  thick,  containing  two  windows  that  open  on  tile-floored 
closets  in  upper  and  lower  stories.  At  the  top  of  the  house  the  chimney  breaks 
into  twin  flues,  a  slanting  roof  covering  the  division.  The  cemented  stone 
cellar,  8  feet  deep,  has  a  large  fireplace  with  ovens  in  the  side. 

The  Buzzard  Hotel  (L),  on  Main  St.,  is  a  remodeled  dwelling  built  in 
1740,  and  named  for  its  builder.  There  is  a  stepped  ivy-clad  chimney. 

The  Williams  House,  SE.  corner  Main  St.,  where  State  92  turns  L.,  is  a 
weathered  two-story  frame  structure  built  in  1748,  shaded  by  arching  oaks 
and  elms,  and  surrounded  by  a  hedge  and  an  old  picket  fence. 

St.  Thomas  Episcopal  Church,  on  the  R.  as  the  highway  turns  L.  into 
Bayview  Rd.,  built  in  1734,  is  the  oldest  standing  church  in  North  Carolina 
and  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  United  States.  Certain  lands  were  early  set  aside 
as  the  glebe  of  St.  Thomas  Parish.  The  Parish  of  Pamticough,  for  the  people 
of  Bath,  was  organized  with  a  vestry  in  1701  and  was  partly  maintained 
from  England  with  assistance  from  the  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the 
Gospel  in  Foreign  Parts  until  long  after  the  construction  of  the  present  build- 
ing. St.  Thomas  had  the  first  public  library  in  North  Carolina,  started  in 
1700  by  the  Rev.  Thomas  Bray,  who  was  founder  and  secretary  of  the  society. 

From  the  enclosing  hedge  a  brick  walk  between  ancient  graves  leads  to 
this  tiny  church  on  a  little  knoll  in  a  grassy  yard.  It  is  a  simple  rectangular 
building,  without  tower  or  apse,  of  common  brick  in  Flemish  bond  with  a 
slight  pattern  in  the  headers  of  the  gabled  facade.  The  doorway,  with  its 
arched  brick  pediment  and  hand-pegged  wooden  door,  is  the  only  opening 
in  the  facade.  Cusped  bargeboards  edge  the  gable  rafters.  Ivy  has  crept  up 
the  front  and  sides  and  through  the  window  frames. 

The  interior  of  St.  Thomas  recalls  the  Tuscarora  massacre  when,  to  thwart 
desecration  by  the  savages,  the  dead  were  interred  beneath  the  straight-backed 
pews  of  the  original  church.  These  pews,  elevated  on  wooden  platforms  a 
step  above  the  brick  aisle,  are  still  in  use,  the  present  church  occupying  the 
identical  site  of  its  predecessor.  Recessed  windows  and  large  hanging  lamps 
add  to  the  charm  of  the  interior.  Silver  candelabra  on  the  altar,  presented 
to  the  church  by  King  George  II,  are  still  in  use.  The  bell  bears  the  date 
1732,  when  it  was  cast  in  London.  Known  as  a  Queen  Anne  bell,  it  is  be- 
lieved to  have  been  bought  for  Bath  Church  from  the  Queen's  Bounty  money, 
as  she  left  a  fund  for  the  purchase  of  church  furniture  and  for  charity.  The 
silver  chalice,  obtained  the  same  way,  has  been  missing  since  1905.  At  the 
right  of  the  altar  is  a  tablet  with  a  long  epitaph,  quoted  verbatim,  with  change 
of  name  and  place,  by  Edna  Ferber  in  her  novel  Show  Boat  {see  Elizabeth 
city).  In  1925,  Miss  Ferber  visited  the  James  Adams  Floating  Palace  The- 
ater, then  anchored  at  Bath,  "the  only  show  boat  experience  I  ever  had." 
Buried  beneath  the  church  in  1765  is  Mrs.  Margaret  Palmer,  wife  of  the 
surveyor  general  of  the  lands  of  the  Province.  Under  a  glass  case  is  an  old 


556  TOURS 

family  Bible,  presented  to  the  parish  by  Capt.  S.  A.  Ashe  of  Raleigh.  The 
Prayer  Book  and  Psalms  in  prose  and  poetry  are  bound  with  the  Bible. 

At  the  south  end  of  Main  St.,  on  Bonners  Point  (L),  is  the  Old  Bonner 
House  (1743)  with  many-paned  windows  and  a  doorway  with  side  lights 
and  transom. 

An  Old  Ship's  Bell,  which  legend  says  was  taken  from  a  ship  belonging 
to  Blackbeard,  hangs  at  the  rear  of  the  public  school  and  is  used  to  summon 
the  children  to  classes. 

East  of  Bath  State  92  crosses  Back  Creek  and  then  curves  south  to  BAY- 
VIEW  {hotel;  swimming,  boating,  fishing),  10  m.,  a  summer  resort  on  the 
shore  of  the  Pamlico  River,  popular  for  fish  fries  and  dancing. 


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Part  IV 


NATIONAL       PARK 
FORESTS 


AND 


GREAT       SMOKY 

MOUNTAINS 

NATIONAL       PARK 


Location:  Western  North  Carolina  and  eastern  Tennessee. 

Season:  Open  all  year;  sightseeing  buses  operate  Apr.  i-Nov.  15. 

Administrative  Offices:  Park  Superintendent,  Gatlinburg,  Tenn.;  Chief  Ranger  Station, 
Bryson  City,  N.C. 

Admission:  Free.  No  registration  or  fees  for  automobiles.  Photographing  permitted  but 
commercial  motion-picture  operators  requiring  special  settings  must  secure  permits 
from  Secretary  of  Interior. 

Nearest  Railway  Stations:  Waynesville,  Whittier,  Ela,  Topton  (Murphy  branch  of 
Southern  Ry.);  Waterville  (Tennessee  &  North  Carolina  R.R.). 

Highway  Mileage:  57  m.  hard-surfaced;  approx.  200  m.  of  good  gravel  roads  in  and 
around  area. 

Trail  Mileage:  860  m.,  of  which  about  500  graded,  suitable  for  hiking  and  horseback 
riding.  Appalachian  Trail  traverses  park.  Guidebooks  available  from  Appalachian 
Trail  Assn.,  Washington,  D.  C. 

Guide  Service:  Inquire  Chamber  of  Commerce,  Asheville. 

Accommodations:  All  types  in  Asheville,  Waynesville,  Bryson  City;  hotels,  tourist  camps 
planned  for  park  (1939);  tourist  camps  at  Flat  Creek  {see  tour  21B)  and  Smokemont 
{see  tour  21E).  Overnight  camping  prohibited  except  in  emergencies. 

Climate,  Clothing,  Equipment:  Dependent  on  altitude;  above  4,000  ft.  blankets  necessary 
the  year  around.  Rainfall  abundant  but  not  excessive.  April  may  be  rainy.  May  bracing 
and  pleasant.  June  most  spectacular  month;  rhododendron  and  laurel  in  bloom.  July, 
August,  and  first  half  of  September  warm  and  usually  dry,  with  only  occasional  showers. 
Warm  wraps  needed  at  all  seasons.  Horseback  riders  and  hikers  need  serviceable 
clothing,  preferably  wool  to  absorb  perspiration  and  protect  against  chill  on  breezy 
mountaintops  or  after  a  rain.  Shorts  should  not  be  used  on  trails.  Light  poncho  and 
sweater  are  useful.  Shoes  or  boots  should  be  stout,  well-broken,  hobnailed;  wool  socks 
should  be  worn. 

Fishing:    {see    general    information). 

Great  Smoky  Mountains  National  Park  encloses  the  best  surviving  rem- 
nant of  the  forest  that  once  extended  from  the  Atlantic  coast  to  the  prairies 
of  the  Middle  West.  Its  virgin  tracts  of  hardwood  and  red  spruce  total  202,000 
acres,  the  largest  in  the  United  States.  The  variety  of  plant  life  is  said  to  be 
greater  within  the  park  than  in  any  other  equal  area  in  the  temperate  zone. 
It  is  estimated  that  nearly  4,000  plant  species  are  represented  in  the  flora  of 
the  park,  of  which  1,000  different  kinds  of  flowering  plants  have  been  iden- 
tified. 

Establishment  of  the  park  was  authorized  by  an  act  of  Congress  approved 
May  22,  1926,  after  citizens  of  North  Carolina  and  Tennessee  had  worked 
for  many  years  to  have  the  area  preserved  for  the  people.  Of  $11,800,878.76 
spent  to  buy  land  for  the  park,  $2,162,283.29  was  raised  by  the  State  of  North 
Carolina  and  $2,345,330.18  by  the  State  of  Tennessee;  $5,000,000  was  given 
by  the  Laura  Spelman  Rockefeller  Memorial  and  $2,293,265.29  by  the  Gov- 
ernment. 

The  park  area — 640  square  miles  of  the  wildest  highlands  in  eastern 

559 


560  NATIONAL     PARK     AND     FORESTS 

America — lies  almost  equally  in  Tennessee  and  North  Carolina.  Additional 
lands  approved  for  purchase  will  bring  the  total  area  to  about  687  square 
miles.  The  axis  of  the  reservation  runs  nearly  east  and  west;  its  greatest 
length  is  54  miles  and  greatest  breadth  19  miles. 

The  Great  Smoky  Mountains,  mostly  included  in  the  park,  have  lofty 
peaks,  deep  valleys,  sharp  ridges,  dashing  streams,  and  dense  forests.  There 
are  two  cross  ranges  in  the  park  besides  the  Smokies,  the  Balsam  in  North 
Carolina  and  the  Chilhowee  in  Tennessee. 

Fifty-three  peaks  in  the  park  are  more  than  a  mile  high.  Clingmans  Dome 
(see  tour  21E),  the  highest,  has  an  elevation  of  6,642  feet.  Mount  Le  Conte 
High  Top  in  Tennessee  appears  to  be  the  highest,  for  its  summit,  6,593  feet 
above  sea  level,  rises  5,301  feet  above  its  base.  Other  uplifts  in  the  park 
having  an  altitude  of  more  than  6,000  feet  include  Balsam  Corner,  Big  Butt, 
Big  Cataloochee,  Mount  Buckley,  Mount  Collins,  Mount  Guyot,  Mount 
Hardison,  Tumpoff,  Mount  Kephart,  Mount  Le  Conte  Cliff  Top,  Mount  Le 
Conte  Myrtle  Point,  Love  Peak,  Luftee  Knob,  Old  Black,  Mount  Sequoyah, 
Thermo  Knob,  Tricorner  Knob,  and  Mount  Yonaguska. 

From  the  base  to  the  summit  of  the  higher  peaks  are  three  life  zones:  the 
Carolinian  or  Upper  Astral,  the  Alleghenian  Transition,  and  the  Canadian. 
Because  the  seasons  vary  with  the  altitude,  it  is  possible  in  a  short  climb  or 
ride  to  observe  plants  in  different  stages  of  growth. 

There  are  known  to  be  143  species  of  trees  in  the  park,  more  than  in  all 
Europe.  The  highest  mountains  are  clothed  with  dense  forests  of  spruce,  fir, 
and  some  hemlock.  Mountains  of  intermediate  height  are  covered  with 
hardwood,  beech  predominating.  The  open  beech  forests  with  their  clean 
forest  floors  somewhat  resemble  the  grounds  of  well-kept  country  estates. 
Hardwood  forests  at  lower  altitudes  are  in  many  cases  almost  impenetrable 
because  of  the  dense  undergrowth.  Some  mountains,  covered  only  with  grass 
or  heath,  and  called  "balds"  (see  tour  21C)  offer  unobstructed  views  in  all 
directions.  Yellow  poplars  attain  a  diameter  of  9  feet. 

Springs  within  the  park  feed  600  miles  of  cold,  crystal-clear,  and  trout- 
filled  streams  that  tumble  over  rocky  beds  and  roar  over  falls.  These  branches 
drain  into  the  Cataloochee,  Forney,  Hazel,  Eagle,  Panther,  Abrams,  and 
Deep  Creeks,  and  the  Little  Pigeon,  Oconaluftee,  Tuckasegee,  and  Little 
Rivers,  whose  waters  eventually  find  their  way  into  the  Tennessee  River. 

The  park  streams  are  bordered  with  rhododendron  and  laurel,  and  in  the 
flowering  season  the  mountain  slopes  are  bright  with  flame  azalea  and  wild 
honeysuckle  beneath  the  dark  stand  of  trees.  Crests  and  ridges  have  a  thick 
covering  of  sand-myrtle  and  Rhododendron  catawbiense ,  which  grows  three 
times  the  height  of  a  man  and  in  June  has  large  clusters  of  rose-purple 
flowers,  though  some  of  it  appears  on  the  higher  summits  as  late  as  August. 
Rhododendron  punctatum  (rose  flower,  shrub  height)  and  Rhododendron 
maximum  (white  to  pink  flowers)  cover  large  areas  of  the  slopes  and  val- 
leys. Mountain  laurel,  called  ivy  by  the  mountaineer,  reaches  its  maximum 
development  in  the  Smokies.  Arborescent  laurel  a  foot  or  more  in  diameter 
and  30  feet  high  is  not  unusual.  On  the  cool  floor  of  the  fir  and  spruce  groves 
at  the  highest  altitudes  grows  flora  characteristic  of  the  northern  woods. 

Wildlife  on  the  slopes  and  peaks  of  the  park  is  less  abundant  than  in 


GREAT    SMOKY    MOUNTAINS    NATIONAL    PARK  561 

some  other  mountainous  regions  of  North  Carolina  and  Tennessee.  Most 
of  the  larger  animals,  such  as  deer  and  black  bear,  once  almost  exterminated 
by  hunters,  are  now  increasing  under  park  protection.  The  54  kinds  of 
mammals  found  in  the  park  include  red  and  gray  fox,  skunk,  opossum, 
mink,  spotted  and  striped  muskrat,  and  raccoon,  with  smaller  animals  plen- 
tiful, particularly  on  the  lower  levels. 

Large  birds  of  prey  are  rare.  In  the  higher  ranges  are  such  northern  species 
as  the  junco  or  snowbird,  mountain  vireo,  several  warblers,  winter  wren, 
raven,  and  certain  hawks  and  owls.  Ruffed  grouse  and  quail  or  "partridge" 
are  common  and  wild  turkeys  are  seen  occasionally. 

The  Cherokee  Indians  have  many  legends  (see  tours  21b,  26c)  about 
this  area,  which  was  part  of  their  former  home  (see  tour  21E).  Origin  of 
the  name  Great  Smoky  is  buried  in  obscurity,  but  it  was  probably  suggested 
to  Indians  or  early  settlers  by  "the  tenuous  mist,  a  dreamy  blue  haze  like 
that  of  Indian  summer,  or  deeper"  that  hovers  almost  always  over  the  high 
peaks.  Earliest  official  Government  use  of  the  term  is  in  the  1789  act  of 
cession  delimiting  the  boundaries  of  North  Carolina  and  what  is  now  the 
State  of  Tennessee:  "...  thence  along  the  highest  ridge  of  said  mountains 
to  the  place  where  it  is  called  Great  Iron  or  Smoky  Mountain."  Tradition 
is  that  Hernando  De  Soto  and  his  Spanish  soldiers  (see  tours  21E  and  31c) 
were  the  first  white  men  to  see  the  southern  highlands,  which  they  named 
for  the  Apalachee  Indian  tribe  they  had  known  in  northwest  Florida. 

The  Great  Smoky  region  was  the  scene  of  early  struggles  between  Eng- 
land and  France  for  colonial  dominance.  However,  a  large  part  of  the  area 
has  never  been  inhabited  and  very  few  white  people  lived  there  until  about 
the  time  of  the  War  between  the  States.  During  that  conflict  the  ranges 
were  an  effective  barrier  to  invasion. 

Some  roads  within  the  park  are  part  of  the  interstate  highway  system; 
others  are  being  improved  and  will  eventually  be  connected  with  these  and 
with  other  attractive  routes  in  North  Carolina  and  Tennessee  and  with 
the  Blue  Ridge  Parkway.  Among  the  park  roads  is  the  Skyline  Drive,  which 
follows  the  crest  of  the  Smokies  for  7  miles  from  Newfound  Gap  to  Cling- 
mans  Dome  (see  tour  21E).  Many  trails  parallel  or  radiate  from  the  road- 
ways. 

The  Appalachian  Trail,  extending  from  Mount  Katahdin,  Maine,  to 
Mount  Oglethorpe,  Ga.,  traverses  the  entire  length  of  the  park  along  its 
highest  ridges,  following  in  general  the  North  Carolina-Tennessee  boundary 
for  a  total  distance  of  70  miles.  The  trail  gives  access  to  numerous  mountain 
peaks,  gaps,  and  balds. 

The  park  area  has  been  largely  deserted  by  its  inhabitants,  who  were 
chiefly  descendants  of  Scotch,  Irish,  and  English  pre-Revolutionary  immi- 
grants. The  picturesque  log  cabins  and  primitive  gristmills  of  those  who 
have  remained  are  now  owned  by  the  Government  and  occupied  under 
lease.  Some  of  the  primitive  structures  will  be  preserved  as  relics  after  the 
area  is  entirely  evacuated. 


NATIONAL       FORESTS 


Season:  Open  all  year. 

Administrative  Offices:  Regional  Forester,  Southern  (Eighth)  Region,  of  the  Forest 
Service  of  the  U.  S.  Dept.  of  Agriculture,  Atlanta,  Ga. 

Admission:   Free. 

Climate,  Clothing,  Equipment:  Climate  varies  with  altitude  (see  great  smoky  moun- 
tains national  park).  Antivenom  kits,  mosquito  lotion,  typhoid  inoculation  recom- 
mended for  coastal  campers. 

Special  Regulations:  Camping:  Permitted  anywhere  except  during  fire  season  (Apr.  and 
May,  Oct.  and  Nov.),  when  restricted  to  designated  Forest  Service  campgrounds. 
These  are  improved  areas  set  aside  in  the  various  divisions  and  provided  with  pure 
water,  fireplaces,  fuel,  tables,  and  sanitary  facilities.  Campers  may  use  own  tents 
or  trailers.  Sanitary  and  fire  regulations  posted.  Fire  Building:  Necessary  fire  building 
outside  of  campgrounds  permitted  to  campers  under  special  rules  for  forest  fire 
prevention.  Any  dead  or  down  timber  may  be  used.  Fishing:  Permitted,  unless  other- 
wise posted,  under  special  permit  obtainable  at  Forest  Service  adminstrative  offices, 
State  or  county  license  a  prerequisite  (see  general  information;  see  district  ranger 
for  current  regulations).  Hunting:  Federal  and  State  game  refuges  closed;  hunting 
permitted  occasionally  during  open  season  when  necessary  to  reduce  game  popu- 
lation of  forest  preserves.  Hunters  chosen  by  lot  from  applicants  who  must  have 
State  or  county  licenses  and  pay  a  fee  for  the  hunt.  Firearms  and  unleashed  dogs  not 
permitted  in  game  refuge  areas.  Residence  sites  available  in  specified  areas  for  annual 
rental  fee,  house  to  meet  Forest  Service  requirements,  lease  renewable  annually  as 
long  as  regulations  not  violated. 

Summary  of  Attractions:  Scenery;  primitive  areas;  nature  trails;  geologic,  historic,  and 
archaeologic  interest;  mountain  climbing;  hiking;  picnicking;  bathing;  boating;  fishing; 
hunting;   camping. 

The  United  States  Forest  Service  has  under  its  administration  in  North 
Carolina  three  National  Forests  and  two  purchase  units  which  were  estab- 
lished under  the  provisions  of  the  Act  of  March  i,  191 1,  known  as  the 
Weeks  Law,  as  amended  by  subsequent  acts.  The  forests  and  purchase  units, 
with  their  respective  acreages  are  as  follows  (June  30,  1938): 

The  Nantahala  National  Forest  was  established  in  191 1.  The  present 
gross  area  within  the  exterior  boundaries  of  the  forest  is  1,349,000  acres  of 
which  the  Forest  Service  proposes  to  purchase  approximately  1,190,000  acres; 
322,465  acres  are  now  under  Government  ownership  or  in  the  process  of 
acquisition. 

The  Pisgah  National  Forest  was  established  in  191 1  and  the  present  gross 
area  is  1,178,000  acres  of  which  the  Forest  Service  expects  to  buy  approxi- 
mately 947,000  acres.  A  total  of  449,659  acres  are  vested  in  Federal  owner- 
ship or  in  the  process  of  acquisition.  The  forest  is  divided  into  four  ranger 
districts:  Pisgah,  Mount  Mitchell,  Grandfather,  and  French  Broad,  all  lying 
in  western  North  Carolina. 

The  Croatan  National  Forest  was  established  in   1934  and  the  present 

562 


NATIONAL    FORESTS  563 

gross  area  is  306,300  acres,  240,300  of  which  have  been  listed  for  possible 
purchase.  The  total  acreage  now  in  Government  ownership  or  in  the 
process  of  acquisition  is  116,625  acres- 

The  Uharie  purchase  unit  was  established  in  1934  and  has  a  present 
gross  acreage  of  560,000  acres,  of  which  426,900  acres  have  been  designated 
for  possible  purchase.  The  total  area  now  in  Federal  ownership  is  22,992 
acres. 

The  Yadkin  purchase  unit  was  established  in  191 1.  The  gross  area  is 
194,496  acres  of  which  149,496  acres  have  been  listed  for  possible  purchase. 
No  purchases  have  been  made  in  this  unit  to  date. 

The  forests  were  first  created  to  protect  the  watersheds  of  navigable 
streams  and  to  provide  merchantable  timber  in  perpetuity,  but  they  have 
been  subsequently  developed  also  for  their  wildlife  and  forage  resources, 
and  as  public  recreational  areas.  Co-ordinated  plans  provide  for  a  full  policy 
of  multiple  land  use,  with  each  particular  area  devoted  to  the  purpose  it  can 
best  serve.  Every  legitimate  form  of  public  use  consistent  with  the  protection 
and  perpetuation  of  the  timbered  watersheds,  streams,  wildlife,  and  other 
forest  resources  is  encouraged  and  promoted  under  Forest  Service  policies. 

Forest  resources  yield  financial  returns  through  timber  sales,  grazing  privi- 
leges, water-power  licenses,  the  renting  of  land  for  summer  home  sites,  and 
mining  permits.  Several  CCC  camps  stationed  within  and  near  the  forests 
aided  materially  in  the  development  program  (1932-39). 

When  these  lands  were  first  acquired  by  the  Forest  Service  they  were 
generally  in  a  low  state  of  productivity  as  a  result  of  destructive  methods  of 
lumbering  and  devastating  fires.  However,  improved  logging  methods,  road 
and  trail  building,  and  the  practice  of  scientific  forestry  in  cutting  and  de- 
veloping timber  have  brought  about  great  changes.  The  forested  areas  are 
noticeably  improved,  particularly  the  vigorous  young  growth;  the  streams 
carry  less  mud  and  silt  after  rains,  and  the  public  has  derived  financial  as  well 
as  recreational  benefits. 

Tree  growth  and  plant  vegetation  in  the  forests  range  from  the  sub- 
tropical on  the  coast  to  the  extreme  northern  types.  The  flowering  season 
reveals  a  difference  in  development  and  bloom  varying  with  altitude  as  well 
as  a  difference  in  forest  or  plant  type.  In  some  areas  timber  stands  are  pre- 
served in  their  natural  state,  to  retain  the  aspect  of  the  original  North 
American  forests.  Other  areas  possessing  high  recreational  value  also  are 
left  uncut. 

The  recreational  facilities  of  the  mountain  forests  have  been  more  fully 
developed,  while  Piedmont  and  Coastal  forests  provide  experimental  grounds 
for  the  application  of  scientific  methods  in  restoring  denuded  or  burnt-over 
areas  to  timber  productivity,  and  serve  as  examples  for  private  landowners 
in  those  regions. 


Part  V 


APPENDICES 


CHRONOLOGY 


1524     Giovanni  da  Verrazzano,  Florentine  navigator  in  the  service  of  France,  explores 

North  Carolina  coast. 
1526     D'Ayllon  expedition  possibly  enters  Cape  Fear  River. 
1540     De   Soto   is   believed  to  have  penetrated   western  Carolina. 

1584  Sept.  Philip  Amadas  and  Arthur  Barlow  take  possession  of  coast  of  Carolina  and 
adjoining  territory  in  name  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  Land  is  named  Virginia. 

1585  Aug.  Sir  Richard  Grenville  leaves  colony  of  108  men  on  Roanoke  Island  under 
Ralph  Lane,  who  builds  Fort  Raleigh. 

1586  June.  Despondent  colonists  embark  for  England  with  Sir  Francis  Drake,  ending 
first  English  colony  in  America. 

July  4.    Grenville,  returning  with  supplies,  finds  colonists  gone  and  leaves  15  men 
to  hold  the  island. 

1587  July  22.  New  colony  (91  men,  17  women,  9  children)  sent  by  Sir  Walter  Raleigh 
under  charge  of  Gov.  John  White,  reaches  Roanoke  but  finds  fort  deserted  and  in 
ruins. 

Aug.  13.    Baptism  of  Manteo,  first  performance  of  baptismal  ceremony  by  English- 
speaking  people  in  the  New  World. 

Aug.  18.    Birth  of  Virginia  Dare,  first  child  of  English  parents  born  in  America. 

Aug.  27.    Governor  White  returns  to  England. 
1 59 1     Aug.   9.    Governor  White  arrives  at  Roanoke  to  find  settlement  abandoned;  no 

trace  found  of  Lost  Colony. 
1622     John  Pory,  secretary  of  the  Colony  of  Virginia,  explores  the  country  to  the  Chowan 

River. 
1629     Charles  I  grants  territory  between  latitudes  31°  N.  and  36°  N.  to  Sir  Robert  Heath 

and  names  region  Carolina. 
1653     Roger  Green  granted   lands  along  Roanoke  and   Chowan  Rivers,   which  he  had 

previously  explored. 

1662  Chief  of  Yeopim  Indians  grants  land  in  Perquimans  County  to  George  Durant. 

1663  Charles  II  grants  to  Earl  of  Clarendon  and  seven  others,  territory  between  latitudes 
31  °  N.  and  36°  N.,  from  Atlantic  Ocean  to  "South  Seas."  Government  under  the 
Lords  Proprietors  (1 663-1729)  begins.  William  Drummond  appointed  Governor 
of  County  of  Albemarle,  comprising  northern  part  of  Carolina. 

1665     Several  hundred  persons  under  Sir  John  Yeamans  land  at  junction  of  Cape  Fear 
River  and  Old  Town  Creek  and  lay  out  a  village  called  Charles  Town  (near  present 
site  of  Wilmington)   which  a  few  years  later  was  abandoned. 
Grand  Assembly  of  Albemarle  held. 

1669     John  Locke  draws  up  Fundamental  Constitutions. 

1672  William  Edmundson,  a  Quaker,  sent  from  Maryland  by  George  Fox,  preaches  at 
the  bend  of  Perquimans  River  (now  Hertford).  Albemarle  section  is  visited  by 
George  Fox. 

1677  John  Culpepper  heads  revolt  against  acting  Governor  Miller,  imprisons  president 
and  members  of  council,  and  assumes  control. 

1683     Seth  Sothel,  who  has  purchased  interests  of  Lord  Clarendon,  becomes  Governor. 

1693     Fundamental  Constitutions  abrogated  by  Lords  Proprietors. 

567 


568  CHRONOLOGY 

1702  Church  erected  by  the  vestry  of  Chowan  Parish,  near  Edenton,  believed  to  be  the 
first  one  in  North  Carolina. 

1704  General  assembly  enacts  law  disfranchising  all  dissenters. 

1705  Town  of  Bath  incorporated;  first  school  conducted  in  Pasquotank  County. 

1 710  Town  of  New  Bern  founded  by  Baron  de  Graff enried. 

1 71 1  Sept.    More  than  100  settlers  massacred  in  general  uprising  of  Tuscarora  Indians. 

1 71 2  Militia  of  two  Carolinas,  aided  by  friendly  Indians,  attack  Tuscarora,  killing  300, 
capturing   100. 

1 713  Troops  under  Col.  James  Moore  of  South  Carolina  capture  Fort  Nohoroco,  Tusca- 
rora stronghold,  taking  800  prisoners.  Bills  of  credit  for  ^800  issued  to  pay 
Indian  war  debt;  first  issue  of  paper  money  in  North  Carolina. 

1 71 5     Assembly  passes   act   to   build   a   courthouse   and   an   assembly   house  at  forks  of 
Queen  Anne's  Creek,  later  Edenton. 
Anglican  Church  (Church  of  England)  is  established  in  Carolina  by  law. 

1 71 8     Pirate  Edward  Teach,  commonly  called  Blackbeard,  killed  by  Lieutenant  Maynard 

near  Ocracoke. 
1722     Town  of  Beaufort  laid  out. 
1725     Permanent  settlements  in  Cape  Fear  region. 

1728  Survey  of  Carolina- Virginia  Line  begun. 

1729  Lords  Proprietors  surrender  territory  to  George  II,  except  one-eighth  interest  re- 
tained by  Lord  Granville.  Period  of  Royal  Governors  (1729-75)  begins. 

1730  Carolina  is  divided  into  two  provinces;  George  Burrington  appointed  Governor 
of  North  Carolina.  Population  about  30,000. 

1735  North  Carolina-South  Carolina  boundary  survey  begun. 

1745  England  and  France  at  war;  Fort  Johnston  built  on  south  bank  of  Cape  Fear  River. 

1746  Scottish  Highlanders,  Scotch-Irish,  and  Germans  begin  settlements  in  State. 
1749  First  printing  press  in  North  Carolina  is  installed  at  New  Bern  by  James  Davis. 

1 75 1  First  newspaper  in  the  Colony,  the  North  Carolina  Gazette,  published  at  New 
Bern  by  James  Davis. 

First  edition  of  A  Collection  of  All  the  Public  Acts  of  Assembly,  of  the  Province 
of  North -Carolina,  by  Samuel  Swann,  published  at  New  Bern  by  James  Davis — 
first  book  published  in  North  Carolina. 

1753  Moravians  purchase  98,985  acres  between  Dan  and  Yadkin  Rivers  from  Lord 
Granville  and  name  the  tract  Wachovia. 

1753     Bethabara,  first  Moravian  town,  founded. 

1755     Assembly  directs  laying  of  road  from  Wilmington  to  Hillsboro. 

1760     Population  about  131,000. 

Tate's  Academy  opens  in  Wilmington — first  academy  established  in  North  Caro- 
lina. 

1763     French  and  Indian  War  ends. 

1765  Cargo  of  stamped  paper  for  use  in  Colony  arrives  in  Cape  Fear  River;  armed 
resistance  prevents  enforcement  of  Stamp  Act. 

1767  Mar.    15.    Andrew  Jackson,  seventh  President,  born  in   Waxhaw  settlement. 
The  Rev.  David  Caldwell  opens  his  classical  school  in  Guilford  County. 

1768  People  of  Orange  County  form  an  association  known  as  the  Regulators  for  abate- 
ment of  abuses  in  taxation  and  for  correction  of  grievances. 

1 771  May  16.  Regulators  defeated  by  Governor  Tryon's  forces  at  Alamance;  seven 
Regulators  hanged. 

Queen's  College  in  Charlotte  chartered — the  first  college  founded  in  North  Caro- 
lina. 

1773  Flora  Macdonald  and  husband  among  300  Scottish  Highland  families  who  join 
settlements  on  Cross  Creek. 


CHRONOLOGY  569 

1774  Aug.     First  State-wide  Provincial  Congress  held  at  New  Bern;  Col.  John  Harvey 
elected  speaker. 

Aug.  Provincial  Congress  decides  that  after  Sept.  1,  1774  use  of  East  India  tea 
shall  be  prohibited;  after  Nov.  1,  1774  importation  of  African  slaves  shall  cease. 
Nov.  23.    Committee  of  safety  orders   cargo  of  tea  to  be  returned. 

1775  Population  about  265,000.  Frontier  pushed  to  foot  of  Blue  Ridge  Mountains. 
Apr.    8.     Governor   Martin   dissolves  assembly,   ending   royal    rule   in   State;    pro- 
visional government  set  up. 

May  20.  Traditional  date  of  Mecklenburg  Declaration  of  Independence  at  Char- 
lotte. 

May  31.  Resolves  passed  by  Mecklenburg  County  Committee  declaring  all  com- 
missions issued  by  Crown  null  and  void;  new  county  government  organized  in- 
dependent of  Crown. 

July  19.    Governor  Martin  takes  refuge  aboard  ship-of-war. 

Fort  Johnston  burned  by  militia  under  Hugh  Waddell,  John  Ashe,  Cornelius 
Harnett,  and  James  Moore. 

Aug.  21.  Delegates  meet  at  Hillsboro,  elect  Samuel  Johnston  president,  declare 
North  Carolina  will  pay  its  proportionate  part  of  expense  in  forming  a  Conti- 
nental  Army,   and   establish   a   State  government. 

1776  Feb.  27.    Tories  defeated  by  Whigs  at  Moores  Creek  Bridge. 

Apr.  12.     Provincial  Congress  at  Halifax  adopts  resolution  for  independence. 
May  29.     British  troops  plunder  Gen.  Robert  Howe's  plantation  at  Brunswick. 
Aug.  2.    National   Declaration  of  Independence  is  signed  for  North  Carolina   by 
Joseph  Hewes,  William  Hooper,  and  John  Penn. 

Dec.  18.  Congress  at  Halifax  adopts  State  constitution  and  elects  Richard  Caswell 
Governor  by  ordinance. 

1777  State  legislature  passes  act  to  confiscate  property  of  Tories. 

1778  Apr.  5.     Articles  of  Confederation  ratified  by  North  Carolina. 

July  21.  John  Penn,  Cornelius  Harnett,  and  John  Williams  sign  Articles  of 
Confederation  for  North  Carolina. 

1780  June  20.    Tories  defeated  at  Ramsours  Mill  by  Whigs  under  Col.  Francis  Locke. 
Sept.  26.    Cornwallis  occupies  Charlotte. 

Oct.  7.     British  defeated  at  Kings  Mountain. 

1781  Mar.     15.    Cornwallis    wins    technical    victory    over    Gen.    Nathanael    Greene    at 
Guilford  Courthouse  but  begins  retreat  to  Wilmington. 

Nov.  18.  On  receipt  of  news  of  Cornwallis'  surrender  at  Yorktown,  British  under 
Maj.  James  H.  Craig  evacuate  Wilmington. 

1782  Assembly  rewards  Revolutionary  soldiers  with  land  grants. 

1784     Dec.   14.    Convention  at  Jonesboro   (now  Tennessee)   elects  John  Sevier  president 
and  formulates  constitution  for  the  State  of  Franklin. 

1786  Apr.  14.    Governor  Caswell  denounces  revolt  of  State  of  Franklin  as  usurpation. 

1787  Sept.    State  of  Franklin  reabsorbed  by  North  Carolina. 

Sept.  17.  William  Blount,  Richard  Dobbs  Spaight,  and  Hugh  Williamson  sign 
Constitution  of  United  States  as  representatives  from  North  Carolina. 

1788  State  convention  at  Fayetteville  decides  to  establish   a   capital   in  Wake  County, 
"within  ten  miles  of  Isaac  Hunter's  plantation." 

1789  Nov.  21.    Federal  Constitution  ratified  for  North  Carolina  by  convention  meeting 
in  Fayetteville. 

Assembly  authorizes  cession  of  western  lands  to  the  Federal  Government. 

1790  Population  393,751;  State  ranks  third. 

Congress  of  the  United  States  accepts  deed  to  western  lands;  organizes  them  as 
the  Territory  South  of  the  River  Ohio. 

1 791  President  George  Washington  makes  tour  of  State. 

1792  City  of  Raleigh  is  platted  as  State  capital. 

1794     Dec.  20.    General  assembly  meets  in  new  capital. 
First  statehouse  at  Raleigh  is  built. 


570  CHRONOLOGY 

1795  Jan.  16.    University  of  North  Carolina,  chartered  1789,  is  opened. 
Nov.  2.    James  K.  Polk,   nth  President,  born  near  Charlotte. 

1796  June   1.     Western  region,  the  Territory   South   of  the  River  Ohio,   admitted   to 
Union  as  State  of  Tennessee. 

1799  Gold  discovered  in  Cabarrus  County. 

1800  Population  478,103;  State  ranks  fourth. 

1804     General  assembly  charters  Bank  of  Cape  Fear  and  Bank  of  New  Bern. 
1808     Dec.  29.    Andrew  Johnson,  17th  President,  born  in  Raleigh. 
1810     Population  555,500. 

1 813     Earliest  known  date  of  a  cotton  mill   in  North  Carolina — the  Schenck  Mill   in 
Lincoln  County. 

1 8 19  Boundary  disputed   by   North   Carolina,   South   Carolina,   and   Georgia   settled   by 
confirmation  of  35th  parallel  as  official  line. 

1820  Population  638,829. 

1825     The  Marquis  de  Lafayette  entertained  at  several  places  in  State. 
1827     Oct.    First  tollgate  installed  for  Buncombe  Turnpike  from  Saluda  Gap  through 
Asheville  to  Tennessee  Line. 

1830  Population  737,987;  State  ranks  fifth. 

1 83 1  June  21.    Statehouse  at  Raleigh  destroyed  by  fire. 

Fayetteville  virtually  wiped  out  by  most  disastrous  fire  recorded  in  State  up  to 
this  time. 

1833  Railroad  from  Cape  Fear  to  Weldon,  162  miles,  begun. 

1834  Wake  Forest  Institute  opens. 

1835  Convention  in  Raleigh  frames  amendments  to  constitution  of  1776. 
Free   Negroes   disfranchised. 

1837  Jan.    1.    Edward   B.   Dudley,   first   Governor  elected    by   vote    of   the   people,    in- 
augurated. 

Davidson  College  opens. 

Dec.    United   States    branch   mint  at  Charlotte   begins   operations. 

1838  Union   Institute,  forerunner   of  Duke  University,   opens  at  Trinity. 

Majority  of  Cherokee  Indians  removed  from  western  North  Carolina  to  Indian 
Territory. 

1839  July  4.     Raleigh  &  Gaston  R.R.  completed. 
First  public  school   law. 

1840  Population   753,419;  State  ranks  seventh. 
Wilmington  &  Raleigh  R.R.   completed. 
New  State  capitol  in  Raleigh  completed. 
First  public  schools  opened. 

1845     School  for  the  blind  and  deaf  opened  at  Raleigh. 

1849  Construction  of  plank  roads  begun. 

1850  Population    869,039. 

1856     North  Carolina  R.R.  to  Charlotte  completed. 

State  hospital  for  the  insane  is  opened  at  Raleigh. 
1859     Raleigh  Working  Men's  Association  is  formed. 
i860     Population  992,622;  State  ranks   12th. 

1 861-  North  Carolina  furnishes  one-fifth  of  Confederate  soldiery  during  the  four  years 
65     of  war. 

1 861  Apr.  16.    Forts  Caswell  and  Johnston  seized  by  Confederates. 
May  20.    North  Carolina  adopts  secession  ordinance. 

Aug.  29.    Forts  Hatteras  and  Clark  captured  by  Federals. 

1862  Apr.  26.    Fort  Macon  surrenders  to  Federals. 
Dec.  7.    Federals  capture  Roanoke  Island. 


CHRONOLOGY  571 

1864  Oct.  27.  Lieutenant  Cushing  blows  up  Confederate  ram  Albemarle  near  Plymouth. 

1865  Jan.  Fort  Fisher  falls  to  Union  forces;  Wilmington,  last  Confederate  port,  captured. 
Mar.  14.  General  Sherman  occupies  Fayetteville;  defeats  Johnston  at  Bentonville, 
Mar.  19,  and  occupies  Raleigh,  Apr.  13. 

Apr.  26.     Johnston  surrenders  to  Sherman  at  Bennett  House,  near  Durham. 
1865-  Period  of  Reconstruction. 
76 

1868  Jan.  14.  Convention  called  under  Reconstruction  Act  meets  in  Raleigh  and  frames 
constitution. 

Apr.  21-23.    Constitution  ratified  by  popular  vote. 

June  25.    North  Carolina  Constitution  approved   by  Congress. 

July    2.    Fourteenth    amendment    ratified    by    general    assembly;    North    Carolina 

readmitted  to  Union. 

1869  March  5.     General  assembly  ratifies  fifteenth  amendment. 

1870  Owing  to  activities  of  the  Ku  Klux  Klan,  Governor  Holden  proclaims  Alamance 
and  Caswell  Counties  in  a  state  of  insurrection  and  sends  militia  into  section. 
Population  1,071,361. 

1 871  Mar.  22.    Governor  Holden  impeached  for  malfeasance  in  office  and  removed. 

1873  Aug.  7.    Eight  amendments  to  constitution  approved  by  popular  vote. 

1874  Local-option   law   for   sale   of  intoxicants   enacted. 

1875  Grange,  farmers'  organization,   attains  membership  of  10,000. 
Thirty  amendments  added  to    1868  constitution. 

1876  Zebulon  Baird  Vance,  wartime  Governor,  reelected,  marking  the  return  of  the 
Democratic  Party  to  power. 

1877  First  State  normal  school  for  Negroes  in  State  established  at  Fayetteville. 

1880  Population  1,399,750;  State  ranks  15th.  Manufacture  of  tobacco  products  rapidly 
developing. 

Railroad  completed  to  Asheville. 

1881  State-wide  prohibition  defeated  by  vote  of  166,325  to  48,370. 

1887     North  Carolina  College  of  Agriculture  and  Mechanic  Arts  established  in  Raleigh. 

1889  Nearly  50,000  Negroes  migrate  to  western  States. 

1890  Population  1,617,949. 

1891  Assembly  provides  for  creation  of  normal  and  industrial  school  at  Greensboro; 
normal  school  for  Negroes  at  Elizabeth  City,  and  North  Carolina  School  for  the 
Deaf    and    Dumb   at   Morganton. 

1896     D.   L.   Russell  elected   Governor  on   Fusion  ticket  composed   of  Republicans   and 

Populists  on  agrarian  platform. 
1898     Race  riots  in  Wilmington. 

May   n.     Ensign  Worth  Bagley,  of  Raleigh,  first  naval  officer  to  lose  his  life  in 

the    Spanish-American   War,    killed   on    the    LJ.S.S.    Winslow   in    the   harbor   of 

Cardenas. 
1898-  Three   regiments  of   volunteers,  two  of  whites  and   one  of  Negroes,  ready   for 
99     service  in  Spanish-American  War.  One  white  regiment  sent  to  Havana. 

1900  Population  1,893,810;  State  ranks  15th. 

1 90 1  Gov.  Charles  B.  Aycock  inaugurates  program  of  expansion  and  improvement  for 
public  schools. 

1909  State- wide  prohibition  effective  under  Turlington  Act. 

1910  Population  2,206,287;  State  ranks   16th. 

1 917     May   21.    8,500    volunteers   for   National    Guard   organized    in   response   to   call 

for  5,100. 
1917-  86,457  North  Carolinians  in  U.S.  Army  and  Navy;  833  deaths  in  battle  and  from 
18     wounds  in  World  War;   1,542  deaths  from  disease.  Congressional  Medal  of  Honor 
posthumously  awarded  Robert  Lester  Blackwell,  of  Hurdle  Mills,  N.  C,  who  was 


572 


CHRONOLOGY 


killed  near   Saint  Souplet,  France,  Oct.    n,   191 8.  Distinguished   Service  Crosses 
awarded  to  184  North  Carolinians,   and  Distinguished   Service  Medals  to  6. 

1920  Population   2,559,123;  State  ranks  14th. 

1 92 1  Program  of  State- wide  highway  construction  begun. 

1924     Trinity  College  in  Durham  endowed  by  James  B.  Duke;  name  changed  to  Duke 
University. 

1930  Population  3,170,276;  State  ranks  12th. 

1931  State  assumes  control  of  entire  highway  system. 

1933     General    assembly    adopts   program    for   financing    8-month   public    school    term; 

local  communities  permitted  to  supplement  term  by  referendum  vote. 
J935     Under  special  legislation   17  eastern  counties  vote  to  establish  liquor  stores. 

Improved  labor  laws  enacted. 
1937     County    local    option    for   establishment   of    liquor   stores    adopted    by   assembly; 

old-age  pensions  and  unemployment  insurance  established. 


SUGGESTED       READINGS 


Andrews,  Evangeline  W.,  and  Charles  McL.  Andrews,  eds.  Journal  of  a  Lady  of  Quality. 
New  Haven,  Yale  University  Press,  1921.  341  p.  illus. 

Arthur,  John  P.  Western  North  Carolina,  1730  to  igi 3.  Raleigh,  Edwards  and  Broughton 
*   Printing  Co.,  1914.  710  p.  illus. 

Ashe,  Samuel  A'Court.  History  of  North  Carolina.  Greensboro,  C.  L.  Van  Noppen,  1908, 
v.  1.  Raleigh,  Edwards  and  Broughton  Printing  Co.,  1925,  v.  2. 

An  excellent  general  history,  particularly  the   first  volume — Colonial   beginnings  to 
1783- 
Attmore,    William.    Journal    of    a    Tour   to    North    Carolina,    1787.    Chapel    Hill,    The 
University  of  North  Carolina  Press,  1922.  46  p.   (James  Sprunt  Historical  Publications, 
v.    17,  no.    2.) 

Bartram,  William.  The  Travels  of  William  Bartram.  Philadelphia,  James  and  Johnson, 
1791.  Reissued,  New  York,  Macy-Masius,    1928.   414  p. 

Botkin,  B.  A.  "Folk  and  Folklore."  Essay  in  Culture  in  tlie  South,  edited  by  W.  T. 
Couch.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University  of  North  Carolina  Press,  1935.  p.  570-593. 

Boyd,  William  K.  The  Story  of  Durham.  Durham,  Duke  University  Press,  1925.  334  p. 
illus. 

,  ed.   William   Byrd's  Histories  of  the  Dividing  Line  betwixt   Virginia  and  North 

Carolina.  Raleigh,  N.  C.  Historical  Commission,  1929.  341  p.  facsim. 

Facts  mingled  with  biased  comment  in  this  work,  notable  for  readability  and  charm. 
Written  by  the  second  William  Byrd  of  Westover,  and  edited  by  one  of  the  most 
distinguished  North  Carolina  historians. 

Brawley,  Benjamin  G.  Negro  Builders  and  Heroes.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University  of  North 
Carolina  Press,  1937.  315  p.  illus. 

Brickell,  John.  The  Natural  History  of  North-Carolina.  Dublin,  1737.  408  p.  illus.  Re- 
printed by  the  authority  of  the  Trustees  of  the  Public  Libraries,  Raleigh,  191 1.  417  p. 
illus.,    maps. 

Brown,  Cecil  K.  A  State  Movement  in  Railroad  Development.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University 
of  North  Carolina  Press,  1928.  300  p.  illus.,  maps. 

Bryson,  Herman  J.  The  Story  of  the  Geologic  Maying  of  North  Carolina.  Raleigh,  1928. 
42  p.  illus.,  map.  (N.  C.  Department  of  Conservation  and  Development,  Educational 
Series,  No.   1.) 

Caine,  Louis  S.  Game  Fish  in  the  South  and  How  to  Catch  Them.  Boston  and  New  York, 
Houghton  Mifflin  Co.,  1935,  259  p.  illus.,  maps. 

Campbell,  Olive  Arnold  (Dame),  and  Cecil  J.  Sharp.  British  Folksongs  from  the  Southern 
Appalachians.  New  York,  G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons,  1917.  341  p.  maps. 

Cheshire,  Joseph  B.  Nonnulla;  Memories,  Stories,  Traditions.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University 
of  North  Carolina  Press,  1930.  255  p. 

Clark,  Kenneth.  An  Eastern  North  Carolina  Town  House:  the  Smallwood-Jones  House. 
New  York,  R.  F.  Whitehead,  1927.  (White  Pine  Series  of  Architectural  Monographs,  v. 
13,  no.  3;  p.  51-72.  illus.) 

Coker,  W.  C,  and  H.  R.  Totten.  Trees  of  the  Southeastern  States.  Chapel  Hill,  The 
University  of  North  Carolina  Press,  1933.  399  p.   illus. 

573 


574 


SUGGESTED     READINGS 


Connor,  R.  D.  W.  North  Carolina,  Rebuilding  an  Ancient  Commonwealth.  Chicago  and 
New  York,  The  American  Historical  Society,  Inc.,  1929.  4  v.  illus. 

The  best  general  history  of  the  State  which  has  been  written,  with  emphasis  on 
movements;  third  and  fourth  volumes  biographical. 

,  W.  K.  Boyd  and  J.  G.  deR.  Hamilton.  History  of  North  Carolina.  Chicago,  Lewis 

Publishing  Co.,  1919.  6  v.  illus. 
Cooper,  William  A.  A  Portrayal  of  Negro  Life.  Durham,  The  Seeman  Printery,  1936.  no 

p.  illus. 
Couch,  W.  T.  "The  Negro  in  the  South."  Essay  in  Culture  in  the  South,  edited  by  W.  T. 

Couch.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University  of  North  Carolina  Press,  1935.  p.  432-77. 
Crews,   Hall.    Old  Salem.   New   York,    R.    F.   Whitehead,    1927.    (White   Pine   Series   of 

Architectural  Monographs,  v.  15,  no.  2.  illus.,  plans.) 

Dickey,  J.  A.,  and  E.  C.  Branson.  How  Farm  Tenants  Live;  a  Socio-economic  Survey  in 
Chatham  County,  N.  C.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University  of  North  Carolina  Press,  1922. 
47  p.  diagrs.  (University  Extension  Bulletin,  v.  2,  no.  61.) 

Dugger,  Shepherd  M.  The  Balsam  Groves  of  the  Grandfather  Mountain.  Philadelphia, 
1892.  187  p.  illus.  Reissued,  Philadelphia,  John  G.  Winston  Co.,  1907.  300  p.  illus. 
Reissued,  Banner  Elk,  by  the  author,   1934.  310  p. 

A  combination  of  romance  and  description;  quaint  style  characterized  by  exaggerated 
ornateness  and  unconscious  humor. 

Eaton,  Allen  H.  Handicrafts  of  the  Southern  Highlands.  New  York,  Russell  Sage  Founda- 
tion, 1937.  370  p.  illus. 

A  beautiful  book,  with  58  Doris  Ulmann  photographs  and  many  others,  and  eight 
pages  in  color.  Interesting  and  authoritative,  and  a  considerable  proportion  of  it 
North  Carolina  material. 

Embury,  Aymar,  II.  New  England  Influence  on  North  Carolina  Architecture.  New  York, 
R.  L.  Whitehead,  1927.  24  p.  plates.  (White  Pine  Series  of  Architectural  Monographs, 
no.  72.) 

Fries,  Adelaide  L.,  ed.  Records  of  the  Moravians  in  North  Carolina.  Raleigh,  N.  C. 
Historical  Commission,  1922,  v.  1;  1925,  v.  2;  1926,  v.  3;  1930,  v.  4. 

Gilbert,  Dorothy  L.  Guilford,  a  Quaker  College.  Greensboro,  J.  J.  Stone  and  Co.,  1937. 
359  p.  illus. 

Gobbel,  Luther  L.  Church-State  Relationships  in  Education.  Durham,  Duke  University 
Press,  1938.  251  p. 

Goodrich,  Frances   L.   Mountain   Homespun.  New  Haven,   Yale  University   Press,    1931. 
91  p.  illus. 

Green,  Charlotte  H.  Birds  of  the  South.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University  of  North  Carolina 
Press,  1933.  277  p.  illus. 

A  nature-study  treatment  of  the  permanent  and  winter  birds  of  the  region;  32  color 
plates. 

Hannigan,  C.  F.  New  Bern,  Athens  of  North  Carolina.  New  York,  R.  L.  Whitehead,  1927. 
24  p.  illus.,  plates.  (White  Pine  Series  of  Architectural  Monographs,  v.  13,  no.  1.) 

Harriot,  Thomas.  Narrative  of  the  First  English  Plantation  of  Virginia.  First  printed 
at  London,  1588,  now  reproduced  after  De  Bry's  illustrated  edition  printed  at  Frankfort 
in  1590,  the  illustrations  having  been  designed  in  Virginia  in  1585  by  John  White. 
London,  B.  Quaritch,  1893.  nip.  illus.,  maps. 

A  contemporary  account  of  the  Indians  and  their  mode  of  living,  told  by  one  of 

Sir   Walter  Raleigh's  colonists. 

Herring,  Harriet.  Welfare  Wor\  in  Mill  Villages.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University  of  North 
Carolina  Press,  1929.  406  p. 

A  social  study  of  extra-mill  activities  in  322  North  Carolina  mill  villages. 

Hobbs,  Samuel  H.,  Jr.  North  Carolina,  Economic  and  Social.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University 
of  North  Carolina  Press,  1930.  403  p.  maps,  tables,  diagrs. 
A  comprehensive  study. 


SUGGESTED    READINGS  575 

Hooker,  Elizabeth.  Religion  in  the  Highlands.  New  York,  Home  Missions  Council,  1933. 
maps,  diagrs. 

Hoyt,  William  H.  The  Mecklenburg  Declaration  oj  Independence.  New  York,  G.  P. 
Putnam's  Sons,  1907.  284  p.  illus. 

Hunnicutt,  Samuel  }.  Twenty  Years  of  Hunting  and  Fishing  in  the  Great  Smoky  Moun- 
tains. Knoxville,  S.  B.  Newmann  and  Co.,  1926.  216  p.  illus. 

Jackson,  George  P.  White  Spirituals  in  the  Southern  Uplands.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University 
of  North  Carolina  Press,  1933.  444  p. 

Jenkins,  John  W.  James  B.  Duke,  Master  Builder.  New  York,  George  H.  Doran  Co., 
1927.  302  p.  illus. 

Johnson,  C.  S.,  E.  R.  Embree  and  W.  W.  Alexander.  The  Collapse  of  Cotton  Tenancy. 

Chapel  Hill,  The  University  of  North  Carolina  Press,  1935.  81  p. 
Johnson,   Guion   G.   Ante-Bellum   North    Carolina:   a   Social  History.   Chapel    Hill,  The 
University  of  North  Carolina  Press,  1937.  935  p. 

Scholarly  thoroughness  happily  combined  with  more  than  usual  readability. 
Johnson,  Theodore  S.  North  Carolina  Today  and  Tomorrow.  Raleigh,  N.  C.  Department 

of  Conservation  and  Development,  1936.  270  p.  maps,  tables,  diagrs. 
Keeler,  O.  B.  Golf  in  North  Carolina.  Raleigh,  N.  C.  Department  of  Conservation  and 

Development,  1938.  52  p.  illus. 
Kephart,  Horace.   Our  Southern  Highlanders.  New  York,  Outing  Publishing  Co.,  1913. 
395  p.  illus.,  map. 

An   authoritative    source   on   the  characteristics,   background,   mode   of  living,  and 

speech  of  the  mountain  people. 

Lawson,  John.  New  Voyage  to  Carolina.  London,  1709.  258  p.  plates,  map.  Reissued  as 

History    of    Carolina,    London,    W.    Taylor    and    F.    Baker,    171 4.    Reissued,    Raleigh, 

Strather  and  Barcom,  i860.  390  p.  Reissued  as  History  of  North  Carolina,  Richmond, 

Garrett  and  Massie,  1937.  259  p. 

In  three  parts:  (1)  Journal  of  a  Thousand  Miles'  Travel;  (2)  Description  of  Carolina; 
(3)  An  account  of  the  Indians  of  Carolina.  The  author  was  an  explorer,  surveyor, 
historian,  and  co-founder  of  New  Bern,  who  left  the  best  contemporary  account  of 
the  region.  He  was  burned  at  the  stake  by  Indians  in  171 1. 

Lefler,  Hugh  T.  North  Carolina  History  Told  by  Contemporaries.  Chapel  Hill,  The 
University  of  North  Carolina  Press,  1934.  454  p. 

A  great  number  and  variety  of  contemporary  accounts,  with  pertinent  editorial 
comment. 

Lemert,   B.   F.   The   Cotton   Textile   Industry  of   the  Southern   Appalachian    Piedmont. 

Chapel  Hill,  The  University  of  North  Carolina  Press,  1933.  188  p. 
Long,  Hollis  M.  Public  Secondary  Education  for  Negroes  in  North  Carolina.  New  York, 

Columbia  University  Press,  1932.   115  p.  illus.,  maps. 

Mason,  Robert  L.  The  Lure  of  the  Great  Smokies.  Boston  and  New  York,  Houghton 
Mifflin  Co.,  1921.  211  p.  illus.,  maps. 

McCoy,   George   W.   Guide  to   the   Great  Smoky  Mountains  National  Park-   Asheville, 

Inland  Press,  1933.  142  p.  illus. 
Mitchell,  Broadus.  The  Industrial  Revolution  in  the  South.  Baltimore,  The  Johns  Hopkins 

Press,  1930.  298  p. 
Mitchell,  George  S.  Textile  Unionism  and  the  South.  Chapel  Hill,   The  University  of 

North  Carolina  Press,  1931.  92  p. 

Noble,  M.  C.  S.  A  History  of  the  Public  Schools  of  North  Carolina.  Chapel  Hill,  The 
University  of  North  Carolina  Press,  1930.  460  p. 

A  survey  of  public  school  education  from  Colonial  days  to  1900,  by  a  man  who 
performed  yeoman  service  in  the  State's  educational  awakening. 
North  Carolina  Department  of  Conservation  and  Development.  Come  to  North  Carolina. 

Raleigh,  1936.  33  p.  illus.,  maps. 
.  North  Carolina  Game  and  Inland  Fishing.  Raleigh,  1935.  59  p. 


cyfS  SUGGESTED    READINGS 

.North  Carolina:  Variety  Vacationland.  Raleigh,  1937.  35  p.  illus. 

.Privately-Owned  Public  Hunting  Grounds.  Raleigh,  1931.  7  p.  Circular  no.  22. 

,  and  Department  of  Labor.  Industrial  Directory  and  Reference  Book,  of  the  State 

of  North  Carolina.  Raleigh,  1938.  932  p.  maps,  charts. 
Odum,  Howard  W.,  and  Guy  B.  Johnson.  The  Negro  and  His  Songs.  Chapel  Hill,  The 

University  of  North  Carolina  Press,   1925.  306  p. 

An  objective  portrayal  of  the  religious,  social,  and  work  songs  of  the  Negro. 

Ormond,  Jesse  M.  The  Country  Church  in  North   Carolina.  Durham,   Duke  University 

Press,  1 93 1.  369  p.  illus. 
Poe,  Clarence.  "The  Farmer  and  His  Future."  Essay  in  Culture  in  the  South,  edited  by 

W.  T.  Couch.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University  of  North  Carolina  Press,  1935.  p.  319-343. 

Poteat,  E.  McNeill.  "Religion  in  the  South."  Essay  in  Cidture  in  the  South,  edited  by 
W.  T.  Couch.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University  of  North  Carolina  Press,  1935.  p.  248-69. 

Potwin,  Marjorie  A.  Cotton  Mill  People  of  the  Piedmont.  New  York,  Columbia 
University  Press,   1927.   166  p.  map. 

Most   of   the   material   gathered    around    Spartanburg,   S.   C,   but  applicable  to   the 
North  Carolina  Piedmont  as  well,  particularly  Gaston  County. 

Puckett,  N.  N.  Folk,  Beliefs  of  the  Southern  Negro.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University  of  North 
Carolina  Press,  1926.  644  p.  2,400  Negro  folk  beliefs  with  comment  on  their  origin 
and  the  part  they  play  in  the  Negro's  life. 

Reid,  Christian  (Mrs.  F.  C.  Tiernan).  The  Land  of  the  S\y.  New  York,  D.  Appleton  and 
Co.,    1900.   130  p.  illus. 

An  entertaining  account  of  a  trip  to  Asheville  and  the  Carolina  mountains  in  1876; 
the  title  is  still  a  popular  term  for  the  region. 

Royster,  Hubert  A.  Medical  Morals  and  Manners.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University  of  North 
Carolina  Press,    1937.   329  p. 

Scarborough,  Dorothy.  A  Song  Catcher  in  Southern  Mountains.  New  York,  Columbia 
University  Press,    1937.  476  p.  illus. 

Shaw,  George  C.  John  Chavis.  Binghamton,  Vail-Ballou  Press,  1931.  60  p.  illus. 

Sheppard,  Muriel  E.  Cabins  in  the  Laurel.  Chapel  Hill,  The  University  of  North  Carolina 
Press,   1935.  313  p.  illus. 

Intimate  glimpses  of  life  in  the  Carolina  Blue  Ridge;   128  full-page  photographs  by 
Bayard  Wootten. 

Sprunt,  James.  Chronicles  of  the  Cape  Fear  River.  Raleigh,  Edwards  and  Broughton 
Printing  Co.,  1914.  594  p. 

.  Tales  and  Traditions  of  the  Lower  Cape  Fear.   Wilmington,  Le  Gwin   Bros., 

1896.  215  p.  illus. 

Taylor,  C.  C,  and  E.  W.  Zimmerman.  Economic  and  Social  Conditions  of  North  Carolina 
Farmers.  Raleigh,  State  Board  of  Agriculture,   1923.  87  p. 

An   accurate   study   based   on   a  survey   of   1,000   North    Carolina   farmers  in   three 
typical  counties.  Numerous  tables  give  condensed  information. 

Thornborough,  Laura.  The  Great  Smoky  Mountains.  New  York,  Thos.  Y.  Crowell 
Co.,  1937.  147  p.  illus. 

Truett,  Randle  B.  Trade  and  Travel  Around  the  Southern  Appalachians  Before  1830. 
Chapel  Hill,  The  University  of  North  Carolina  Press,  1935.  192  p.  plates,  maps. 

U.  S.  Congress.  Senate  Committee  on  Indian  Affairs.  Indians  of  North  Carolina.  Wash- 
ington, Govt.  Print.  Off.,  1915.  252  p.  maps,  plates.  (63rd  Cong.,  3rd.  Sess.,  Senate 
Document  677.) 

United  States  Department  of  the  Interior.  General  Information  Great  Smoky  Mountains 
National  Park  '»  North  Carolina  and  Tennessee.  Washington,  Govt.  Print.  Off.,  1932. 
14  p.  tables,  map. 


SUGGESTED    READINGS  577 

Wager,  Paul  W.  County  Government  and  Administration  in  North  Carolina.  Chapel  Hill, 
The  University  of  North  Carolina  Press,  1928.  447  p. 

A  description  of  forms  and  practices  in  county  government  with  suggested  changes, 
written  by  a  specialist. 
Wells,   B.   W.   The   Natural  Gardens   of  North   Carolina.   Chapel  Hill,  The   University 
of  North  Carolina  Press,  1932.  458  p.  illus. 

Descriptions  of  the  11  major  plant  communities  of  North  Carolina,  from  seacoast  to 
mountaintop,  with  keys  to  the  herbaceous  wild-flower  plants. 
Woofter,   T.   J.,  Jr.  The  Plight   of   Cigarette  Tobacco.   Chapel  Hill,  The   University  of 
North  Carolina  Press,  1931.  99  p.  illus. 


INDEX 


INDEX 


Aberdeen,   350 

Abolition    societies,    44 

Adair,  Dr.  Jaines  Robert,  grave,  324-25 

Aderholt,  O.  F.,  425 

Ad-Vance  (blockade  runner),  477 

Agricultural  and  Technical  College  of 
North    Carolina    (Greensboro),    212 

Agriculture,  58-63;  conservation  and 
reclamation,  62,  63;  cotton,  324;  dairy 
products,  62;  early,  58,  59;  Farmers 
Alliance,  60;  Four-H  clubs,  63;  jour- 
nals, 59,  60;  livestock,  62;  sharecrop- 
ping,  59,  6s;  subsistence  homesteads, 
63;  tenancy,  48,  62;  tobacco,  365,  512; 
value  of  products,  61 

Air  lines,  xxiv,  69,  70 

Airlie,  288 

Airplane,   first  flight,   295-96 

Airports,   see   Air   lines 

Alamance  Battleground,  485 

Alamance  Cotton  Mill,   484-85 

Alamance  Creek,  battle,  39,  485 

Albemarle,  397-98 

Albemarle  (Confederate  ram),  309;  sink- 
ing,  496 

Albemarle,  Great  County  of,  305;  first  as- 
sembly, 305 

Albemarle    Region,    275 

Alderman,   Edwin  A.,   79,    no,   328,   329 

Alexander,  418 

Alexander,  John  McKnitt,  540 

Alexander,  Nathaniel,  162 

Allanstand,    467-68 

Allen,  Eleazar,  306 

Allen,  John,  Place,  345-46 

Allen,   William,   185-86 

All  Healing  Springs,  412 

Alma,  537 

Alston,  Joseph  (Chatham  Jack),  498 

Alston,    Philip,    House,    547-48 

Aluminum  Company  of  America,  458 

Amadas,  Philip,  31,  298 

Ambrose,  Mary  L.,  494 

American  Enka  Corp.  plant,  440 

American  Federation  of  Labor,  see  Indus- 
try and  Industrial  Relations 

American  Tobacco  Co.  plant  (Durham), 
173;    (Reidsville),    373 

Amory,  Fort,  remains,  516 


581 


Anderson,   Fort,   site,   308 

Andrews,  445 

Andrews,  Col.  A.  B.,  530 

Andrews  Geyser,  530 

Anson,   Lord   George,    399 

Ansonville,   398-99 

Apex,  348 

Appalachian  Forest  Experiment  Station, 
439 

Appalachian  Hand  Weavers   (Tryon),  470 

Appalachian  Mountain  Center  (Penland), 
433 

Appalachian  State  Teachers  College 
(Boone),  413-14 

Appalachian  Trail,  xxvi-xxvii,  437,  452, 
457>  458,  462,  508,   561 

Archdale,  390 

Archdale,  John,  84 

Architecture,  122-33;  Classic  Revival, 
126,  128,  130;  Colonial,  122-26;  Eccle- 
siastical, 123,  127,  130,  131,  132; 
Georgian  Colonial,  123,  124,  127; 
Gothic  Revival,  130;  modern,  131-33; 
Moravian,  123,  124;  New  England  in- 
fluence, 127;  town  houses,  125-28;  see 
also   tours ;   towns 

Arden,   464 

Area,  8 

Armistead,  Lewis  Addison,  birthplace,  229 

Arthur,  John  P.,  in 

Arts,  The,  107-21;  handicrafts,  n  8-21; 
literature,  1 07-11;  music,  n  4-1 5;  paint- 
ing, 1 15-18;  sculpture,  1 16-18;  theater, 
112,  113,  163-66,  415,  James  Adams 
Floating,  190-91,  555;  see  also  Archi- 
tecture; Carolina  Playmakers 

Asbury,  Francis,  86,  440,  451,  461-62; 
in  Raleigh,  234 

Ashe,  John,  307 

Ashe,   Samuel,    139 

Ashe,  Samuel  A'C,   no,  236 

Asheboro,   386 

Asheville,  137-48;  description,  137-38; 
history,  138-39;  industry  and  trade,  139; 
mountain  resort,  138;  Recreation  Park, 
532 

Asheville  Farm  School,  532 

Ashland,  280,  343 

Atkinson,  Thomas,   85 


582 


Atlantic    (village),   522 
Atlantic   Beach,    518 

Atlantic    Christian    College    (Wilson),    322 
Attmore,  William,   125 
Averasboro  Battleground,  527 
Avery,   Col.    Waightstill,    415 
Avon,  301 
Avondale,    418 

Aycock,  Charles  B.,  49,  79,  no;  birth- 
place, 328;  grave,  243 

Bacon,  Henry,  254;  grave,  256 

Badin,    550 

Badin,    Adrian,    550 

Bakersville,   433-34 

Balds,   mountain,    452,   509 

Ballads,  see  Folkways  and  Folklore 

Ballard,   Robert,    108 

Ballou  Iron  Mine,  412 

Balls  Creek  Campground,  423 

Balsam  Gap,  442 

Bandon,  280 

Banker  ponies,  301,  524 

Banks  (coastal  islands),  9,  300-3,  518, 
520,  523-24 

Banner  Elk,   428 

Banning,  Margaret  Culkin,  470 

Baptists,  see  Churches;  Religion 

Baring,   Charles  S.,   466 

Barium  Springs,  405 

Bark  House  (Tarboro),  311 

Barker,  Penelope,  site  of  home,  185 

Barlow,   Arthur,   31,   298 

Barnwell,  Col.  John,  26,  27,  516 

Barnwell,  Fort,  site,  516 

Barringer   House,   124,   422-23 

Baseball,  92 

Bassett,  John  Spencer,  in 

Bat  Cave,  504,  545 

Bath,  35,  554-56 

Bath,  Great  County  of,  284,  554 

Battle,    Elisha,   319 

Battle  Homestead,  319 

Battle,  Kemp  P.,  no,  in,  151 

Battle  of  the  Bees,  540 

Battle,  William  H.,   156 

Battleboro,  319 

Batts  Grave,  281 

Batz  Island,  281 

Baxter,  Judge  John,  duel  with  Erwin,  466 

Bayboro,  286 

Bayside,  304 

Bay  view,  556 

Beaucatcher  Tunnel    (Asheville),   533 

Beaufort,  35,  519-20 

Beaufort  County  Courthouse  (Washing- 
ton), 284 

Bechtler,  Christopher,  417 

Belhaven,  551 

Bell,  Martha,  390 


INDEX 


Bellamy  Mansion  (Wilmington),  129,  254 

Belmont,  541 

Belmont  Abbey  College   (Belmont),  541 

Belo  House    (Winston-Salem),   129,  262 

Belvidere,   279 

Benbow  House   (Oak  Ridge),  487 

Bennett  College    (Greensboro),   212 

Bennett  Memorial,  482 

Benton,  Thomas  Hart,   in 

Bentonville  Battlefield,  334 

Berkeley,  William,  33 

Berry,  John,  129,  368 

Bessemer  City,  542 

Best,  Henry,  House,  313 

Bethabara    (Oldtown),    488 

Bethania,   488 

Beverley  Hall  (Edenton),  186 

Bickett,  T.  Walter,  539 

Big  Cove,   456-57 

Big  Savannah,  332 

Big  Sugar  Loaf,  battle,  528 

Biggs,  Asa,  283 

Biltmore  (village),  144 

Biltmore  Forest,  146 

Biltmore  House  (Asheville),  131,  145-46 

Bingham,  Rev.  William,  364,  483 

Bingham,  Robert  W.,  483 

Birds,    16-19 

Biscoe,    386 

Bitter,  Karl,   145 

Bjorkman,  Edwin,  no,  140 

Black  Camp  Gap,  449 

Black  Gap,  509 

Black  Mountain  (town),  531 

Black  Mountain  College,  531 

Blackbeard,  35,  278,  524,  553-54 

Blackmer,  Sidney,  377 

Blackwell,  Lester,  49 

Blandwood   (Greensboro),  206 

Blannerhasset  Island    (Marshall),  463 

Block  House,  471 

Blockade  Runners,  45,  248,  256,  288,  289, 

528;  Ad-Vance,  477 
Blount,  John  Gray,  524 
Blount,  Rev.  Nathaniel,  285,  511 
Blowing  Rock,  420 
Blowing  Rock  (town),  419 
Blue  Ridge  (Y.M.C.A.  assembly),  531 
Blue  Sea  Falls,  431 

Blum  House   (Winston-Salem),  268-69 
Blum,  John  Christian,  260,  266,  268-69 
Boardman,  537 
Bodie  Island  Lighthouse,  300 
Boggan,  Capt.  Patrick,  399 
Bogue  Banks  (islands),  518 
Bolton,  536 
Bonclarken,  466 
Boner,  John  Henry,   no 
Bonner   House    (Bath),   556 
Bonner,  James,  284 


INDEX 


583 


Bonnett,  Stede,  35,  290 

Boone,   413-14 

Boone,  Daniel,  40,  343-44,  413,  486,  490, 

499.  508 
Boone  Memorial  Park,  376 
Boones  Mill,  battle  site,  475 
Borden  House  (Goldsboro),  329 
Bossom,   Alfred   Charles,    131 
Bost,  W.  T.,  no 

Bottomless  Pools  (Chimney  Rock),  544 
Boundaries,  8 
Boxwoods  (Madison),  383 
Boyd,  James,  109,  350 
Boyd,  W.  L,  no 
Bracebridge  Hall,  128,  311 
Bragg,  Fort,  326 
Bragg,  Gen.  Braxton,  477 
Bragg  House   (Warrenton),  477 
Bragg,  John,  477 

Bragg,  Thomas,  475,  477;  grave,  243 
Branch,  Gen.  L.  O'Bryan,  222 
Branch,  John,  319 
Branch  Plantation,  319 
Brandon,  Betsy,  379 
Brasstown,  510 
Bray,  Rev.  Thomas,  555 
Brevard,  505;  College,  505 
Brevard,  Ephraim,  405;  grave,  540 
Brevard  House,  426 
Brick  House  (Blackbeard),  278 
Brickell,  John,  107,   122 
Bridal  Veil  Falls,  508 
Bridgers,  Anne  Preston,   113,  236 
Bridgeton,  286 
Brogden,  Curtis  H.,  330 
Bromide  Arsenic  Springs,  412 
Brothers     House     (Winston-Salem),     124, 

266 
Brown,  Bedford,  478 
Brown  House  (Washington),  285 
Brown  Mountain  Beach,  421 
Brown  Mountain  Lights,  416,  503 
Brown-Williamson    Tobacco     Co.     factory 

(Winston-Salem),    269 
Browne,  William  Garle,  116 
Bruce,  Charles,  384 
Brummels  Inn,  374-75 
Brunswick,  35,  307 

Bryan-Ashford  House  (New  Bern),  231 
Bryson  City,  443 
Buck  Creek  Ranch,  509 
Buck  Shoals,  464 
Buck  Springs,  475 
Buffalo   City,    493 
Buies  Creek,  526 
Bullock,  Dempsey,  322 
"Buncombe,"  definition,   138-39 
Buncombe,  Edward,   138,  496 
Buncombe  Hall,  site,  495-96 
Buncombe,  Joseph,  496 


Buncombe  Turnpike,  462,  465 

Bundy,  John  Elwood,  116 

Burgaw,  332 

Burgess,  Dempsey,  grave,  292 

Burke    County    Courthouse    (Morganton), 

501-2 
Burke,  Fielding,  pseud.,  see  Dargan,  Olive 

Tilford 
Burke,  Thomas,  368;  grave,  367 
Burke,  Thomas,  House  (Hillsboro),  369-70 
Burlington,  484 
Burns,  Otway,  520 
Burnside,  344 
Burnside,  Gen.  Ambrose  E.,  297,  518;  in 

New   Bern,   222,   227 
Burns ville,  431 

Burr,  Theodosia,  legend,  294-95,  524 
Burt,  Katherine  Newlin,  no,  350 
Burt,  Struthers,  no,  350 
Bus  lines,  xxiii,  69 
Bushnell,  443 

Bute  County  Courthouse,  site,  480 
Butler,  Pierce  Mason,  513 
Buxton,  302 

Buzzard  Hotel   (Bath),  555 
Byrd,  William,  3,  34,  276,  382 

Cabarrus  Black  Boys,  gunpowder  plot, 
379-80 

Cabarrus,  Stephen,  281 

Caesars  Head,   505 

Caldwell,  Joseph,  150 

Caldwell,  Rev.  David,  38,  205;  grave,  211; 
log  college,  38,  486 

Calhoun,  Francis  Boyd,  476 

Calhoun,  John  C,  250 

Cambreleng,  Churchill   C,  285 

Camden,   291 

Camden  County  Courthouse  (Camden), 
291 

Cameron,  349 

Cameron,   Rebecca,   370 

Campbell,  Col.  William,   542 

Campbell  College    (Buies  Creek),   526 

Campbell,  John  C,  Folk  School  (Brass- 
town),  510 

Campbell,  Olive  Dame,  510 

Campbell,  Rev.  James,  323,  327 

Campgrounds  (U.  S.  Forest  Service): 
Bent  Creek,  439;  Big  Ivy,  438;  Carolina 
Hemlock,  504;  Davidson  River,  448; 
Deep  Gap,  508;  Ellis  Lake,  517;  Frying 
Pan,  447;  Gorge  Dell,  444;  Nantahala 
(Wayah  Gap),  508;  North  Mills  River, 
439;  Old  Fort,  530;  Pink  Beds,  447; 
Silvermine,  462;  Stony  Fork,  446; 
White  Pine,  448 

Candler,  446 

Candor,  386-87 

Cannon,  Joseph  E.,  birthplace,  486 


584 


Cannon,  J.  W.,  Sr.,  379 

Cannon  Mills   (China  Grove),  379;   (Kan- 

napolis),  379 
Canova,  statue  of  Washington,  235 
Canton,  440 

Cape  Hatteras  Lighthouse,  301 
Cape  Hatteras  State  Park,  xxvi,  301 
Cape  Lookout  Lighthouse,  520 
Capital,  various  locations,  42 
Capitol,  State,  see  State  Capitol 
Capps  Gold  Mine,  540 
Carawan  Farm,  494 
Caroleen,  418 
Carolina    Aluminum    Co.    plant    (Badin), 

550 
Carolina  Beach,  528 

Carolina  Female  College  (Ansonville),  398 
Carolina   Pines,   356 
Carolina   Playmakers,    113,    151-53;    forest 

theater,    156;   theater,    129,   156 
Carolina    Power   &    Light   Co.    dam    (Til- 

lery),  549;   (Waterville),  452 
Carpenter,    Uncle    Jake,    416 
Carpetbaggers,  47,  235,  248-49 
Carr,  Elias,  311 

Carr,  Gen.  Julian  S.,  171,  482;  grave,  173 
Carrboro,  371 
Carson  House,  402 
Carson,  Kit,  402 
Carson,  Samuel  P.,  503;  duel  with  Vance, 

439.  466 
Carthage,  547 
Cary,  347 
Cashiers,  506 
Casso's  Inn,  235,  243 
Castle  Hayne,  528 
Caswell,  Fort,  289 
Caswell,    Richard,    40,    313-14,    318,    527; 

grave,  515 
Caswell  Training  School,  515 
Catawba  College   (near  Salisbury),  378 
Catawba  Falls,  531 
Cedar  Walk  (Williamsboro),  344 
Cemeteries,   National,  see  National   Ceme- 
teries 
Central  Piedmont  Experiment  Farm,  500 
Central  Prison   (Raleigh),  246 
Chadbourn,   537 

Chamberlain,  Hope  Summerell,    177 
Champion    Paper    and    Fibre    Co.,    plant 

(Canton),  440 
Chapel    Hill,    149-57;    description,    149; 

history,    149-51;    see   also    University    of 

North  Carolina 
Charles  House   (Elizabeth  City),   194-95 
Charles  Town,  306 
Charley,  Old,  see  Tsali 
Charlotte,    158-68;    description,    158-59; 

history,  159-61;  industry  and  trade,  161; 

Mecklenburg   Declaration,    160 


I  NDEX 


Chatham    Mfg.    Co.    plant    (Elkin),    402; 
(Winston-Salem),  271 

Chavis,  John,  236,  345 

Cherokee    (village),    455 

Cherokee    County    Courthouse    (Murphy), 
445 

Cherokee    Indian    Normal    School     (Pem- 
broke),   537 

Cherokee    Reservation,     455-56;    see    also 
Indians 

Chesnutt,  Charles  W.,  202 

Chicora    Confederate     Cemetery     (Averas- 
boro),   527 

Chimney  House  (Winston-Salem),  269 

Chimney  Rock,  545 

Chimney  Rock   (village),   544-45 

China  Grove,  379 

Chocowinity,   285 

Chowan    College    (Murfreesboro),    474 

Chowan    County    Courthouse     (Edenton), 
124,   125,    187-88 

Christ  School    (Arden),  464 

Churches: 

African    Methodist    Episcopal: 

Raleigh:  St.  Paul,  244 
Associate   Reformed    Presbyterian: 

Pisgah,  425 
Baptist: 

Asheville:  First,  141;  Cub  Creek,  410; 
Lilesville,  538;  Long  Creek  Memorial, 
424-25;  New  Bern:  First,  228;  Shiloh, 
85,  292;  Three  Forks,  490;  Union 
Grove,  367 
Christian: 

Shallow  Well,  526 
Episcopal: 

Asheville:  All  Souls,  144;  Bath:  St. 
Thomas,  555-56;  Blowing  Rock:  St. 
Mary's  of  the  Hills,  419;  Brunswick: 
St.  Philip's,  308;  Chapel  Hill:  Chapel 
of  the  Cross,  157;  Chocowinity:  Trin- 
ity, 285;  Creswell:  St.  David's,  494; 
Durham:  Ephphatha,  172;  Edenton: 
St.  Paul's,  183-85;  Elizabeth  City: 
Christ,  194;  Fayetteville:  St.  John's, 
201;  Flat  Rock:  St.  John's-in-the- 
Wilderness,  130,  465-66;  Fletcher: 
Calvary,  464;  Halifax:  St.  Mark's, 
318;  Hillsboro:  St.  Matthew's,  370; 
Kinston:  St.  Mary's,  314;  New  Bern: 
Christ,  228;  Pinehurst:  Village  Chapel, 
:32>  353;  Pittsboro:  St.  Bartholo- 
mew's, 363-64;  Plymouth:  Grace, 
496-97;  Raleigh:  Christ,  130,  241-42; 
Scotland  Neck:  Old  Trinity,  309; 
Snow  Hill,  312;  Tarboro:  Calvary, 
311;  Valle  Crucis:  Holy  Cross,  429; 
Warrenton:  Emmanuel,  476;  Wash- 
ington: St.  Peter's,  284;  Wilkesboro: 
St.     Paul's,     409;     Williamsboro:     St. 


INDEX 


585 


Churches    {continued) 

John's,   344;   Wilmington:   St.   James, 
251 
Evangelical   Lutheran: 

Old  Organ,  378;  Salisbury:  St.  John's, 

377 

Jewish: 
Wilmington:  Hebrew  Temple,  131,254 

Lutheran: 

Philadelphia,  425;  St.  John's,  380 

Methodist: 

Charlotte:  Dilworth,  167-68;  Cor- 
nelius: Mount  Zion,  406;  Currituck: 
Pilmoor  Memorial,  293;  Durham: 
Duke  Memorial,  172-73,  Duke  Uni- 
versity Chapel,  177,  Trinity,  172; 
Fayetteville,  201;  John  Wesley  Stand, 
499;  New  Bern:  Centenary,  228; 
Straits:  Starr,  521;  Swanquarter: 
Providence,  552;  Winston-Salem: 
Centenary,  270 

Moravian: 

Bethabara,  488;  Bethania,  488;  Fried- 
berg,  396;  Winston-Salem:  Home, 
266-67 

Presbyterian: 

Alamance,  525;  Antioch,  358;  Ash- 
pole,  325;  Bethany,  403;  Bethel,  359; 
Brown  Marsh,  336;  Buffalo,  349; 
Chapel  Hill:  Sprunt  Memorial,  157; 
Charlotte:  First,  162;  Concord:  First, 
379;  Fayetteville:  First,  199;  Goshen, 
541;  Greensboro:  Old  Buffalo,  210- 
11;  Hillsboro,  369;  Hopewell,  540; 
Kenansville:  Golden  Grove,  331; 
Laurel  Hill,  359;  Long  Street,  326- 
27;  Mount  Mourne:  Centre,  405;  New 
Bern:  First,  127,  229;  Old  Bethesda, 
350;  Old  Bluff,  323;  Statesville,  404; 
Steel  Creek,  541;  Sugaw  (Sugar) 
Creek,  380;  Summerville,  526;  Third 
Creek,  405;  Townsville:  Nutbush, 
345;  Valdese:  Waldensian,  501;  War- 
renton,  477;  West  Jefferson,  413; 
Wilmington:  First,  255 

Primitive  Baptist: 

Hollow  Springs,   421 

Quaker: 
Deep    River,    389;    Guilford    College: 
New  Garden,  486;  Springfield,  389 

Reformed : 
Grace,  378 

Roman   Catholic: 

Asheville:  St.  Lawrence,  131,  141-44; 
Belmont:  Cathedral,  541;  Mountain 
Island:  St.  Joseph's,  427;  New  Bern: 
St.  Paul's,  229;  Raleigh:  Sacred 
Heart  Cathedral,  244;  Wilmington: 
St.  Mary's  Cathedral,  254-55;  St. 
Thomas,  255 


Clarendon  (estate),  306 

Clark,  Mary  Bayard  Devereux,  226 

Clark,     Miles,     House     (Elizabeth     City), 

195 
Clark,  Walter,  in 
Clarkton,  336 
Clay,  Henry,  242 
Clayton,  514 
Clearwater  Beach,   503 
Clemmons,  479 
Cleveland  Cabin,  490 
Cleveland,  Capt.  Robert,  490 
Cleveland,  Col.  Benjamin,  409,  490 
Cleveland  Springs,  543 
Cliffside,   418 
Climate,   1 1 
Clingman,    Thomas    L.,    no,    431,    458, 

534;  grave,  147 
Clinton,   334 

Clio's  Nursery  (school),  403 
Clyde,  440 
Coast    Guard,    see    United    States    Coast 

Guard  Stations 
Coastal  Plain,  3,  8-9;  farming,  62 
Cobbs  Point,  304 
Coffee  Pot  (Winston-Salem),  262 
Coffin  House   (Jamestown),  374 
Coinjock,  293 

Coker  Arboretum    (Chapel  Hill),   156 
Coker,  W.  C,   156,  507 
Colburn      Museum       (Biltmore      Forest), 

146  • 
Cole,  Maj.,  House   (Ansonville),  398 
Cole's  Pottery,  386 
Collettsville,  421 
Collington,  296 
Collins,  Josiah,  495 
Collins  Place,  346 
Columbia,  493 

Columbia  Marble  Co.   (Marble),  445 
Columbus,  471 
Concord,  379 
Cone,  Ceasar,  205 
Cone,    Moses    H.,    205,     419;     Memorial 

Park,  419 
Cone  Textile  Mills   (Greensboro),  211 
Confederate  Memorial  Library  (Hillsboro), 

369 

Connelly  Springs,  500 

Connestee  Falls,  505 

Connor,  George  W.,  322 

Connor,  Henry  Groves,  322 

Connor,  R.  D.  W.,  107,  no,  in,  322 

Conover,  411 

Constitution,    Federal:    rejection,   41,   368; 

ratification,  41,  197,  199 
Constitution  House    (Halifax),  318 
Constitution,  State:  first,  39,  40,  318;  1835 

revision,  43;  1868  revision,  46,  47;  1875 

amendments,  47 


586  INDEX 


Cook,  John,  223 

Cooper  House,   321 

Coor,  James,  226 

Corbin,  Francis,  186,  319 

Core  Banks    (islands),  520,  523 

Corn,  crop  value,  62 

Cornelius,   406 

Cornwallis  House   (Wilmington),  125,  250 

Cornwallis,  Lord,  390;  at  Bethania,  489;  at 
Brunswick,  308;  at  Charlotte,  160;  at 
Guilford  Courthouse,  384;  at  Hillsboro, 
368;  at  Long  Street,  326;  at  Salem,  260; 
at  Wilmington,  248,  250 

Cotton,  crop  value,  61;  see  also  Industry 
and  Industrial  Relations 

Cowles,  Calvin  J.,  409 

Crabtree  Creek  State  Park,  348 

Craggy  Flats,  438 

Craggy  Rhododendron  Gardens,  438 

Cram,  Ralph  Adams,  172 

Cramer,  Dr.,  House  (Beaufort),  519-20 

Cramer,  Stuart  Warren,  Sr.,  167 

Cramerton,  541 

Cranberry,  429 

Craven,  Braxton,  176 

Creswell,  494 

Croatan   (village),  517 

Croatan  National  Forest,  see  Forests,  Na- 
tional 

Cross  Creek,  site   (Fayetteville),  200 

Crossan,  Capt.  Thomas  M.,  477 

Crossnore  School   (Crossnore),  415-16 

Crowell's  Crossroads,  310 

Crowfield  Academy,  38,  405 

Grumpier,    412 

Crusoe  Island,   338-39 

Cullasaja  Gorge,  508 

Cullowhee,   453 

Culpepper,  John,  304 

Culpepper  Rebellion,  35,  304 

Cupola  House   (Edenton),   123,   186-87 

Currituck,  292-93 

Currituck  Beach  Lighthouse,  293 
Currituck   Sound,   293 

Cushing,  Lt.  William  B.,  496 

Daingerfield,    Elliott,    116,    419;    boyhood 

home,  199;  grave,  202 
Dallas,  425 

Daly,  John  Augustin,   112 
Danbury,  392 

Daniel  Boone  Game  Refuge,  415,  421 
Daniel,  Gen.  Junius,  316 
Daniels,   Jonathan,    109,   236 
Daniels,    Josephus,    236,    322;    birthplace, 

285 
Dare,  Virginia,  32;  birthplace,  298-99 
Dargan,   Olive   Tilford,    109,    no,    140 
Davenport  Gap,  452 
Davidson,    406;    College,    406 


Davidson  County  Courthouse  (Lexington), 

375-76" 
Davidson,   Gen.   William   L.,   405;   grave, 

540 
Davidson  River  (village),  505 
Davidson,  Samuel,  504;  grave,  532 
Davie,  Gen.  William  R.,  42,  88,  no,  149, 

377;    home    (Halifax),   317 
Davis,    Alexander    J.,    126,    129,    156,   246 
Davis,    George,    250 
Davis   House    (Beaufort),   520 
Davis,    James,    38,    225 
Davis,    Jefferson,     in    Charlotte,     161;    in 

Greensboro,    205 
Deals  Gap,  458 
De  Ayllon,  Lucas  Vasquez,  31 
Deep  Gap,  490 
De    Graffenried,    Christopher,    26,    221-22, 

223,  312 
De    Graffenried    House    (Near    Pittsboro), 

498 
De  Mille,  Henry  Churchill,   112 
De  Mille  House   (Washington),   285 
DeRossett  House   (Wilmington),  256 
DeRossett,  Moses  John,  307 
De  Soto,  Hernando,  28,  31,  445,  457,  543, 

561 
Diamond  City,   site,  520 
Diamond  Shoals,   302 
Diamond  Shoals  Lightship,  302 
Dick,  Robert  P.,  211 
Dickson  House,  482 
Dillingham,  438 
Dillsboro,   442 
Dimock,  Dr.  Susan,  285 
Dismal  Swamp,  275-77 
Dismal  Swamp  Canal,  276 
Dix,  Dorothea  Lynde,  246 
Dixon,  Thomas,  109,  236 
Dixondale,  483 

Dixons   Sanitarium    (Hendersonville),    465 
Dobbs,  Arthur,  308 
Dobbs,  Fort,  site,  403 
Dobson,  395 

Dodd,  William  E.,  in;  birthplace,  514 
Dorland     Bell     School     for     Girls      (Hot 

Springs),  462 
Dortch  House,  321 
Doughton,  401 
Doughton,  Robert  L.,  408 
Douglas,  Mrs.  Stephen  A.,  grave,  373 
Dowdy,   Betsy,   293 
Dowdy  Town,  365 
Drake,  Sir  Francis,  32,  298 
Dram  Tree    (Wilmington),  250 
Draper,  382 

Dromgoole  Rock   (Chapel  Hill),   157 
Drum  Inlet,  523 

Drummond,  William,  34,  277,  305 
Dry  Falls,  508 


INDEX 


587 


Dudley,  Edward  B.,  255,  513 

Dudley  Mansion  (Wilmington),  255 

Dugger,  Shepherd  M.,  109,  428 

Duke  Homestead,  362 

Duke  Hospital   (Durham),   179 

Duke,  James  B.,  167,  170-71;  endowment, 
171;  grave,  177 

Duke  University,  176-80;  architecture, 
132;  enrollment,  176;  faculty,  176;  his- 
tory, 176-77;  Press,  177;  schools  and 
colleges,  176-77 

Duke,  Washington,   170;  grave,   177 

Duncan,  Ernest,  House   (Beaufort),  520 

Duncan,   Thomas,   House    (Beaufort),    520 

Dunleith  (Greensboro),  211 

Dunn,  323 

Durant,  George,  279;  grant,  33;  supposed 
grave,  279 

Durants  Neck,  278 

Durham,  169-80;  description,  169-70; 
history,  170-71;  industry  and  trade,  171; 
tobacco  manufacturing,  170-71;  see  also 
Duke  University 

Durham,  Bartlett,  170 

Eagle  Hotel   (Halifax),  site,  316 

Eagle  Lodge  (Hillsboro),  368-69 

Eagles  Island,  288 

Earle,  Rev.  Daniel,   183,  280 

East  Carolina  Industrial  Training  School, 
319 

East  Carolina  Teachers  College  (Green- 
ville), 512 

East  Dismal  Swamp,  551 

East  Flat  Rock,  469 

East  Lake,  492 

East  LaPorte,  453 

Eating  and  Drinking,  101-6 

Eaton  Place   (Warrenton),  476 

Ebenezer  Academy  building,  403 

Ecce  Homo   (painting),  251,  308 

Eden,  Charles,  181,  553;  grave,  185;  home 
site,  281 

Eden  Palace,  site,  553 

Edenhouse  Beach,  282 

Edenton,  181-89;  description,  181;  fish- 
eries, 182;  history,  181-82;  museum, 
187;  tea  party,  182,  site,  188-89 

Edgemont,  421 

Edmundson,  William,  84,   191,  279 

Edneyville,  504 

Education,  see  Public  Education;  Re- 
ligion 

Edwards,  Weldon  Nathaniel,  342-43 

Elizabeth  City,  190-95;  description,  190- 
91;  history,  191-93;  State  Normal 
School,  304;  yacht  basin,   195 

Elizabethtown,  336;  battle,  336 

Elk  Park,  428 

Elkin,   402 


Ellerbe,  387 

Ellerbe  Springs,  387 

Ellington,  Douglas,    140,   141 

Elliott,  Gilbert,  309 

Ellwood,  Charles  Abram,  177 

Elon  College,  484 

Embree,  Fort,   509 

Embury,   Aymar,   II,   132,   353 

Emory-Bishop  House  (New  Bern),  225 

Enfield,   319 

Enfield  Farm,  304 

Englehard,  552 

Enka    (village),   440 

Eno  Will,  482 

Episcopalians,  see  Churches;  Religion 

Erlanger,  396 

Erwin,   527 

Erwin  Cotton  Mills   (Durham),   172 

Erwin,    Maj.    Marcus,    duel    with    Baxter, 

446 
Eschol,  288 
Ethyl-Dow     Chemical     Co.     plant     (Kure 

Beach),  529 
Evans,  Henry,  86,  201 

Fairfax  Hall,  292 

Fairntosh  Plantation,  362 

Faison,  330 

Faith  Rock,  499 

Falcon,  323 

Fall  line,  9 

Falls  of  the  Roanoke,  475 

Fanning,   David,    363,   368,   499,    548 

Fanning,  Edmund,  368-69 

Farmers  Alliance,  60 

Farmville,  311 

Fauna,  14-19 

Fawn  Rearing  Plant,  447 

Fayetteville,  196-202;  description,  196; 
fire,  197;  history,  196-97;  Light  In- 
fantry, 201;  river  traffic,   197 

Fear,  Cape,  9,  289-90 

Fearing  House   (Elizabeth  City),    194 

Ferber,  Edna,  555 

Ferguson,  410 

Ferguson,  Maj.  Patrick,  542 

Fessenden,  Reginald  A.,   299 

Few,  James,  367 

Fish,  xxvii,  15,  23,  93;  hatcheries,  24; 
licenses,  xxvii 

Fisher,  Fort,  45,  529 

Flat  Rock,  465 

Fletcher,  464 

Floating  Road,  291 

Flora,  11-14;  poisonous  plants,  xxv 

Flora  Macdonald  College  (Red  Springs), 
358 

Floral  College  Community,  538 

Foch,  Marshal,  539 

Folklore,  see  Folkways  and  Folklore 


588  INDEX 

Folkways  and  Folklore,  94-100;  animal 
tales,  98,  99;  ballads,  100,  463; 
"banker"  speech  characteristics,  97,  98, 
303,  521;  customs,  94-99,  463;  festivals, 
95,  96;  mountains:  feuds,  467,  speech 
characteristics,  443-44,  superstitions,  462- 
63;  music  and  dances,  96,  100;  Negroes: 
influence,  97,  superstitions,  516;  reli- 
gious influence,  96 

Football,   92 

Forbis,  Col.  Arthur,  525 

Forest  City,  418 

Forests,   13-14,  19,  20 

Forests,     National,     xxvi,     20,     562-63; 
program,      563;      recreational     facilities, 
563;    resources,   563 
Croatan,  286,  517,  562-63 
Nantahala,    442,    459,   473,    506-7,   508, 

562-63 
Pisgah,  439,  446-48,  462,  503,  505,  562 
Uharie,   563 
Yadkin   Purchase   Unit,   563 

Formy-Duvall,   Jean,    338 

Forney,  Gen.  Peter,  426 

Forney,  Jacob,  426 

Forney,  Maj.  Daniel  M.,  426 

Fort    Barnwell    (village),    516 

Fort   Defiance,   420-21 

Fort   Fisher   Beach,    529 

Fort  Landing,  492 

Fort  Macon  State  Park,  518 

Foscue  House,  286 

Fossil  Forest,  363 

Fowle,  Daniel,  grave,  243 

Fox,   George,    84,    191,   279;   Journal,   282 

Franklin,  472-73 

Franklin,   State  of,   41,   502 

Franklinton,    345 

Franklinville,    498-99 

Free   Issues,   336-37 

Freedmens   Bureau,   53,  243 

Freeman,   Ralph,   399 

Fremont,  328 

French  and  Indian  War,  28 

Fries,  Dr.  Adelaide  L.,  267 

Fries,   Francis,   261 

Frisco,  302 

Frying  Pan,  494 

Frying  Pan  Shoals,   289 

Fuller,  Edwin  W.,  345 

Fuquay  Springs,  357 

Gales,    Joseph,    236 
Gales,   Winifred   Marshall,    236 
Game:    laws,    xxviii;    licenses,    xxviii;    ref- 
uges: Federal,  xxvii,   State,  xxvii 
Gander  Hall,  site,   529 
Gap,  395 

Gardner,  O.  Max,  543 
Garland,   335 


Gaston  House   (New  Bern),  227 

Gaston,  William,  87,  223;  birthplace,  227; 

grave,  230 
Gastonia,  425 
Gatesville,    277 

Gatling,   Richard   J.,   birthplace,   278 
Georgia  boundary,  34 
Gibbons,  James  Cardinal,  255,  427,  541 
Gilkey's  Cave  (Linville  Caverns),  416 
Gilkyson,    Walter,    no 
Gill,    James,    231 
Gillespie  Gap,  435 
Gillis    (bugler),   384,   385 
Gimghoul  Castle   (Chapel  Hill),  157 
Glade  Gap,   509 

Glascock,  Dr.  George,  grave,  548 
Glasgow,    James,    312 
Glen  Alpine,  503 
Glenn,  R.  B.,  406 
Glennwood,   489 
Glenola,   390 

Gloucester,   Dr.,  House    (Warrenton),   477 
Godfrey,  Thomas,    112;  grave,  251 
Gold  Hill,   397 

Goldsboro,   328-29;   battle,    515 
Golf,  92-93 

Goodrich,  Frances  L.,  467 
Goshen  Valley,   409 

Governor's  Mansion  (Raleigh),  131,  242 
Graham,   483-84 
Graham,  Capt.  Joseph,  380 
Graham,  Edward  Kidder,  no,  151,  157 
Graham,    Frank    Porter,    151 
Graham,   Gen.   George,  grave,    162 
Graham,  William  A.,  484;   grave,  369 
Grand  View,  490 
Grandmother  Gap,  414 
Granite   Falls,   421 
Granite  Quarry,  397 
Grantsboro,  286 
Granville    County    Courthouse     (Oxford), 

355 

Granville  district,  36 

Granville,  Fort,  523 

Granville  Line,  312 

Grassy   Creek   Falls,    454 

Graves,  Mary  deBerniere,  117 

Great  Dismal   Swamp,  275-77 

Great  Smoky  Mountains  National 
Park,  451,  455-58,  559-61;  description, 
559-61;  flora  and  fauna,  560-61;  his- 
tory, 559-60;  peaks,  560;  roads  and 
trails,  561;  water  courses,  560 

Greeley,  Horace,  marriage,  476 

Green,  Maj.  Nat.  House  (Warrenton),  476 

Green,  Paul,   113,   153,  526 

Green,    Roger,    281 

Greene,  Anne  Bosworth,  470 

Greene,  Gen.  Nathanael,  205,  384;  me- 
morial,  385 


INDEX 


589 


Greenhow,  Rose  O'Neill,  grave,  256 
Greensboro,   203-13;   Community  Center, 

211-12;   country  park,   385;   description, 

203-4;    education,    205;    history,    204-5; 

industry  and  trade,  205 
Greensboro  College  (Greensboro),  206-7 
Greenville,    511-12 
Gregory,   Gen.   Isaac,   292 
Grenville,  Richard,  32,  298 
Griffin,  Charles,  37,  304-5 
Grimes,  Gen.  Bryan,  511 
Grimes  House,  511 
Grimes,  J.  Bryan,  511 
Grimesland,  511 
Grimshawes,   506 
Grove,  E.  W.,  139,  147 
Grove,   The    (Halifax),    317 
Guastavino,  Rafael,   131,   141-44,  254-55 
Guess,    George,    29 
Guilford  College,   486 
Guilford  Courthouse,  battle,  40,  384 
Guilford     Courthouse     National     Military 

Park,   384-85 
Guyot,  Arnold,  452 

Haglar,  Chief,  410 

Hakluyt,  Richard,  31 

Hale  Home   (Fayetteville),  201 

Half-Way  House,  site,  277 

Halifax,  316-18 

Halifax  Resolves,  39,  318 

Hall,  Dr.  James,   404;  grave,  403 

Hall,    Judge    John,    House     (Warrenton), 

477 

Hall  of  History   (Raleigh),  241 

Halls  Creek,   305 

Hamilton,  J.  G.   deR.,    no,  368 

Hamlet,  538 

Hammond,  J.  H.,  513 

Hampstead,   287 

Hampton,  Gen.  Wade,  506 

Hamptonville,  402 

Handicrafts,   1 18-21 

Hanes,  479 

Hanes,  P.  H.,  knitting  plant  (Winston- 
Salem),  270 

Hanging  Rock   State  Park,   393 

Hanks,   Nancy,   406,    457 

Hanson,    Timothy,    293 

Harbison,    Thomas    Grant,    507 

Harbor  Island,   288 

Harkers   Island,    521 

Harmony,   402 

Harnett,  Cornelius,  248,  256,  308,  316; 
grave,  251 

Harriot,  Thomas,  32,  84 

Harris,   Wade,    Bridge,    490 

Harrison,   Richard    B.,    206 

Harrison,  Richard  B.,  Library  (Raleigh), 
244 


Harvey,  Col.  (Bold)  John,  222,  280 

Harvey   Home    (Hertford),    280 

Harvey,   John,   280 

Harvey,  Thomas,  280;  grave,  280 

Harveys  Neck,   280 

Hatteras    (village),   302-3 

Hatteras,  Cape,  9,  301 

Hatteras,  Fort,  303 

Hatteras  Inlet,  303 

Havelock,   517 

Haw  River,  483 

Hawkins,  Benjamin,  29 

Hawkins,   Col.    Philemon,   Jr.,   343 

Hawkins,   William,   343 

Hawks,  John,   125,  231 

Hayes   (Edenton),    127,  280-81 

Hayesville,   509 

Haywood,  Richard  B.,  House  (Raleigh), 
241 

Heartt,  Dennis,  370 

Heath,  Sir  Robert,  grant,  33 

Hecklefield   Farm    (New  Hope),   278 

Hell   Swamp,   551 

Helper,  Hinton  Rowan,   107 

Hemp,  548 

Henderson,    344 

Henderson,  Archibald,   in,   153 

Henderson,    James   Pinckney,    424 

Henderson,  Leonard,  344 

Henderson,   Richard,   grave,   343 

Hendersonville,   464-65 

Henrietta,  418 

Hertford,  279-80 

Hester,  355 

Hewes,  Joseph,  182;  monument  (Eden- 
ton),  188;  site  of  store   (Edenton),   187 

Hewes,  Joseph,   House    (Edenton),    185-86 

Hexagon  House    (near   Wagram),   359 

Hickory,   422 

Hickory  Nut  Falls,    545 

Hickory    Nut    Gap,    545 

Hickory   Nut   Gorge,   504,   543 

Hicks   Island,   335 

Hiddenite,    411 

High  Falls  of  the  Tuckasegee,  454 

High   Hampton,   506 

High  Point,  214-20;  city  park,  374;  Col- 
lege, 217-18;  description,  214-15;  furni- 
ture manufacturing,  215;  history,  215- 
16;  industry  and  trade,  215 

High   Shoals,    424 

Highlands,  507;  Museum  and  Biological 
Laboratory,  507 

Highways,  xxiv;  Buncombe  Turnpike, 
139;  Fayetteville  and  Western  Plank 
Road,  389;  good  roads  movement,  48; 
modern,  68;  plank  roads,  44,  197;  see 
also  folding  map 

Hill,  Gen.  D.  H.,  108,  427 

Hill,  Green,  House,  346 


590 

Hill,  John  Sprunt,    154 

Hill,  Theophilus  H.,   no,  236 

Hill,    Whitmel,    grave,    309 

Hilliard,  Dr.  W.  L.,  duel  with  Hyman,  461 

Hilliard  Home,  321 

Hillsboro,  367-70;  Military  Academy 
ruins,    371 

Hilton,   Capt.    William,    306 

History,  31-50;  first  settlements,  31-33; 
proprietory  regime,  33-35;  royal  period, 
35-38;  revolution  and  independence,  38- 
42;  ante-bellum  days,  42-44;  war  and 
reconstruction,  45-47;  recovery  and 
progress,  47-50;  for  local  history  see 
towns;   tours 

Hiwassee   Dam,    510 

Hobson,  Richmond  Pearson,  489 

Hodge,    Abraham,    317 

Hoey,  Clyde  R.,  543 

Hoffman,   350-51 

Hoke,  Gen.  Robert  F.,  424,  496 

Hoke,   Michael,   House    (Lincolnton),    424 

Holden,  William  W.,  46,  235,  370;  grave, 
243;  impeachment  and   removal,   47 

Holly    Shelter    Game    Refuge,    332 

Hollywood,   518 

Holmes,  Gabriel,  home  site,  335 

Holt,  Edwin  M.,  484 

Holt,  Jacob,  476 

Holt,  Thomas  M.,  483,  484 

Hooper,  William,  248,  280;  grave,  385; 
original  grave,  369 

Hoover,    Andrew,    grave,    499 

Horner  Military   School,   site,   355 

Hornets'  Nest    (Charlotte),   160 

Horniblow  Tavern,  site  (Edenton),  66, 
187 

Horse  Shoe,  504 

Horton,  George  Moses,   108 

Hot  Springs,  461-62 

Howard,  Martin,   223 

Howe,  Gen.  Robert,  248;  birthplace,  308 

Hoyle  House,  425 

Hughes,   Hatcher,    113,   543 

Hunt,   Richard  Morris,   131,   145 

Hunter,  Isaac,   Tavern,   347 

Huntersville,   406 

Hunting,   see   Game 

Hunts  Tavern,   390 

Hm oil  (ship),  wreck,  296 

Husband,  Harmon,  498 

Hyde   County  Courthouse    (Swanquarter), 

55i 
Hydro,  549 
Hyman,  John  D.,  duel  with  Hilliard,  461 

Indians,  25-30;  Catawba,  25,  27,  28,  433; 
Cheraw,  25;  Cherokee,  28-30,  433,  456, 
508;  Cherokee  legends,  441,  444,  445, 
449-50,    457,     458,     505,     508-9,     544; 


INDEX 


Indians    (continued) 

Cherokee  removal,  29,  30;  Cherokee 
songs,  114;  Coree,  25,  528;  Croatan,  27, 
28,  324,  537;  early  tribes,  25-27;  Hat- 
teras,  25;  Keyauwee,  25,  386;  Macha- 
punga,  25;  mounds,  453,  472,  549; 
Neusick,  25;  Nikwasi,  472;  Nunnehi, 
472;  Occoneechee,  25,  482;  Pamticoe, 
554;  Pasquotank,  25;  Perquimans,  25; 
Poteskeet,  25;  religion,  84;  Saponi,  25, 
386;  Saura,  393;  Snowbird,  459;  Tus- 
carora,  25-28,  35,  312,  554,  555;  Tus- 
carora  massacre,  26-27,  222!  Tutelo,  25; 
Waccamaw,  25;  Waxhaw,  539;  Weape- 
meoc,   25;  Yeopim,  25,  279 

Indian  Woods,  282-83 

Industry  and  Industrial  Relations,  71- 
78;  American  Federation  of  Labor,  75- 
76;  ante-bellum,  42,  43;  capital  and 
labor  supply,  74,  75;  development  after 
1880,  48;  furniture,  73;  growth  and 
diversification,  71-74;  industrial  com- 
mission, 77-78;  industrial  relations,  75- 
77;  industrial  statistics,  72;  Knights  of 
Labor,  75;  labor  organizations,  75-77; 
legislation,  77,  78;  lumber,  73,  74;  mis- 
cellaneous industries,  74;  strikes  and 
lockouts,  75-77;  textiles,  72,  73;  tobacco, 
73,  321;  workmen's  compensation,  77 

Information  service,  xxviii;  see  also  cities 
and   towns 

Ingleside,    129,    426 

Intracoastal  Waterway,  xxiv,  65,  223,  249, 
286,    289,   293,   492,    551 

Inverness   Hotel    (Lincolnton),   424 

Iredell  House    (Edenton),   189 

Iredell,    James,    189 

Iredell,    James,    Jr.,    189 

Ives,  Levi  Silliman,   85 

Jack,  Capt.  James,   160,   162 

Jackson,    474-75 

Jackson,  Andrew,  160,  377,  384,  395,  459; 

birthplace,  540;  duel  with  Avery,  415 
Jackson,     Gen.     Thomas     J.     (Stonewall), 

library,    1 63 
Jackson,    Mrs.    Thomas    J.,    163;    see   also 

Stonewall  Jackson  Training  School 
Jacksonville,   287 
James  City,   516 

James,   Hinton,    150;  grave,   332 
Jamestown,  374 
Jarvis,  Thomas  J.,   512 
Jarvisburg,    294 

Jarvis-Hand  House   (New  Bern),  226 
Jefferson,   412 

Jerkins-Duffy  House   (New  Bern),  227 
Johns   River  Gorge,    420 
Johnson,     Andrew,     birthplace,     243;     in 

Carthage,   547;   Reconstruction  plan,    46 


INDEX 


591 


Johnson,   Andrew,    House    (Raleigh),    246 

Johnson,   Gerald,    no,    in 

Johnson,  Guy  B.,   115 

Johnston,  Fort,  248,  289 

Johnston,  Gabriel,  85,  248,  308 

Johnston,  Gen.  Joseph  E.,  334,  482 

Johnston  House   (Washington),  284 

Johnston,  Samuel,   127,   182,  280,  318 

Jonathans   Creek,    451 

Jones  and   Salters  Lakes  Land  Utilization 

Project,   335 
Jones,  John  Paul,   188,  318 
Jones-Lipman  House  (New  Bern),  231 
Jones,   Nancy,   House,   513 
Jones   (Shocco)   Springs,  480 
Jones,  Willie,   41,  317;  grave,  243 
Jonesboro,  526 
Joppa  Graveyard,  499-500 
Joyce   Kilmer   Memorial   Forest,   459 
Joyner,  James  Y.,  79 
Jugtown,  386 

Junaluska    (Tsunu'lahosji),  Chief,   459 
Jutaculla  Rock,  453 

Kannapolis,  379 

Kanuga  Lake,  465 

Karyae  Park,  425 

Kenan,  Col.  James,   330 

Kenan   Stadium    (Chapel   Hill),    155 

Kenan,  William   Rand,  Jr.,   155 

Kenansville,    330-31 

Kephart,  Horace,  109;  grave,  443 

Kernersville,   487 

Kilgo,   John   C,    176 

Kill  Devil   Hill,   296 

Kilmer,  Joyce,  Memorial   Forest,   459 

King,  395 

King  Blunt    (chief),   493 

King  Taylor   (chief),  221 

King,  William  Rufus,  331,  334;  birthplace, 

527 
Kings  Mountain   (town),   542 
Kings  Mountain,  battle,  40,  542 
Kings  Mountain  Boys,  429,  430,  435,  503, 

542 
Kinsey,   510 
Kinston,  313-14 

Kirk,  Col.  George  W.,  366,  450 
Kirk-Holden  war,   47 
Kirkland   Place    (Ayrmount),   367 
Kitchin,  William  W.,  361 
Kittrell,  345 
Kitty  Hawk,  294 
Knight,  Tobias,  553 
Knollwood,  352 
Koch,  Frederick  H,  112,  151 
Korner's   Folly    (Kernersville),   487 
Kraft-Phenix    Cheese    Corpn.    plant    (West 

Jefferson),   413 
Ku  Klux  Klan,  47,  366,  373 


Kure  Beach,  529 


Labor,  see  Industry  and  Industrial  Re- 
lations 

LaFayette,  Marquis  de,  at  Fayetteville,  199; 
at  Halifax,  316;  at  Raleigh,  242,  243 

La  Grange,  515 

Lake  Junaluska  (Methodist  Assembly), 
440-41 

Lake  Landing,  552 

Lake  Lure   (village),  544 

Lake   Mattamuskeet  Wildlife  Refuge,   552 

Lake  Toxaway    (village),   506 

Lakes,  xxvi;  Allisons,  403;  Badin,  550; 
Beaver,  439,  463;  Black,  335;  Blewett 
Falls,  538;  Brandt,  384;  Cashiers,  506; 
Catfish,  286,  517;  Cheoah,  444,  458; 
Drummond,  277;  Eden,  432;  Ellis,  517; 
Emory,  472;  Enka,  440;  Fairfield,  506; 
Great,  517;  High  Rock,  376;  Highland, 
466;  Holts,  323;  James,  502;  Jones, 
335;  Junaluska,  440;  Kanuga,  465; 
Kawana,  415;  Lanier,  471;  Little,  517; 
Long,  517;  Lookout  Shoals,  411,  500; 
Lure,  543;  McKinney,  351;  Mattamus- 
keet, 552;  Michie,  362;  Oxford,  411, 
421;  Phelps,  495;  power  development, 
xxvi;  Rhodhiss,  421;  Rhododendron, 
465;  Rim,  358;  Salters,  335;  Santeetlah, 
459;  Sapphire,  506;  Silver,  340;  Sin- 
gletary,  335;  Summit,  466;  Tahoma, 
503;  Tillery,  549;  Tomahawk,  531; 
University,  371;  Waccamaw,  536;  White, 

335 

Lakes  Pocosin,  286,   517 

Land  Utilization  Projects:  Jones  and  Salt- 
ers  Lakes,   335;    Sandhills,   350-51 

Lane,  Joel,  234,  243 

Lane,  Joel,  House  (Raleigh),  244-45 

Lane,  Joseph,  243;  birthplace,   147-48 

Lane,  Lunsford,  52 

Lane,  Ralph,  32,  298 

Lanier  Library   (Tryon),  470 

Lanier,    Sidney,    470 

Latrobe,  Benjamin  Henry,  426 

Laura  Spelman  Rockefeller  Memorial,  559 

Laurel  section   (Madison  County),  467 

Laurel    Springs,    408 

Laurinburg,  359-60;  Industrial  Institute, 
359-60 

Lawson,  John,  26,  107,  221-22,  296,  312, 

554  _ 
Leaksville-Spray,    382 
Leasburg,    478 

Lee,  Annie  Carter,  grave,  480 
Lee,  "Light  Horse"  Harry,  390 
Leech,  Joseph,  225 

Lees-McRae  College   (Banner  Elk),  428-29 
LeGrange,    H.   M.,    pseud.,   see   Cameron, 

Rebecca 


592  INDEX 

Leigh  Mansion   (Durants  Neck),   128,  278 

Lennoxville   Rookery,    521 

Lenoir,  421 

Lenoir,  Gen.  William,  150,  420-21 

Lenoir-Rhyne   College    (Hickory),    422 

Lewis  Home,   320 

Lewis,    Nell   Battle,    no 

Lexington,  375-76 

Liberty,   525 

Liberty    Hall    Academy,    site    (Charlotte), 

166 
Library,    first    free,    38;    State    (Raleigh), 

240-41 
Liggett  &  Myers  Co.  plant  (Durham),   172 
Lilesville,   538 
Lillington,  357 

Lillington,   Gen.  Alexander,  288,   527 
Lilliput,  site,   306 

Lincoln,  Abraham,  tradition  of  birth,   457 
Lincoln  Academy,  542 
Lincolnton,  423-24 
Lindley   Nurseries,   487 
Lineback,  Henry,  House  (Winston-Salem), 

263 
Linville,   415 
Linville    Caverns,    416 
Linville   Falls,   416 
Linville  Falls    (town),  416 
Liquor  regulations,  xxv 
Literature,    107-n 
Lithia  Springs,  424 
Little    Switzerland,    435 
Littleton,  475 

Livingstone   College    (Salisbury),    378 
Loafers    Glory,    434 
Lockville,   348 
Lockwoods  Folly  Inlet,   289 
Locust   Hill,    478 
Logtown,  511 
Long,   Col.  Nicholas,  318 
"Long  time  between  drinks,"  407,  513-14 
Looking  Glass  Falls,   447 
Looking  Glass  Rock,  447-48 
Lookout,  Cape,  9,   520 
Lords  Proprietors,  33-34 
Loretta    (Halifax),   317 
Lost   Colony,   27,    32,   S5,   3^4,    335,    493, 

537;  pageant,  113 
Louisburg,   345;    College,    345 
Louisiana    House    (New    Bern),    125,    226 
Low  Falls,  508 
Lumberton,   324 

Lutherans,  see  Churches;  Religion 
Lynch  law,  origin  of  term,  346 

McAden,  Rev.  Hugh,  326 
MeConnell,  548 
McCorkle,  Rev.   Samuel,   88 
Macdonald,  Alan,   200,  316,  528 
Macdonald,   Donald,    527 


144 
503 


Macdonald,  Flora,  200,  316;  site  of  home 
(Fayetteville),  200;  see  also  Flora  Mac- 
donald  College 
McDougall,    William,    177 
McDowell,  Col.  Joseph,  503 
McDowell  House    (Asheville), 
McDowell,    "Hunting   John, 
McFall   Mill,   battle,    358 
Mclntyre  Log   House,    540 
Mclntyre's  Branch  Skirmish   (Battle  of  the 

Bees),  540 
Mclver,   Charles  D.,   79,   525;   monument, 

210 
MacKeithan    House    (Fayetteville),    199 
McLean  House   (Sedalia),   485 
McNairy  House,   384 
McNeill,  James  Dobbin,  200 
McNeill,      John      Charles,      no;      grave, 

359 
Maco  Light,  536 
Macon,  Fort,  518 
Macon,  Nathaniel,  41,  475 
MacRae,   Hugh,   332-33,   528 
MacRae,  Hugh,  House  (Wilmington),  254 
McRee,   Griffith  J.,   111 
Madison,   383 
Madison,  Dolly  Payne,   birthplace,   361-62, 

486 
MafEtt,  Capt.  John  Newlands,  288 
Magic   Horse   Tracks,    553 
Magnolia  Plantation  House,   495 
Maiden,  423 
Maidenhair  Falls,  505 
Manchester,  327 
Mangum,  Willie  Person,   362,  368;  grave, 

362 
Manly,    Charles,    364 
Manly,  Matthias,  225 
Manns  Harbor,  493 
Manson,  343 
Manteo,  297 

Manteo    (Indian),  31;  birthplace,   521 
Marine    Biological    Laboratory     (Woman's 

College),  521 
Marine   Biological   Station    (Pivers   Island), 

519 
Marion,   417 

Marion,  Gen.   Francis,   326,   435 
Market  House    (Fayetteville),    130,    197-99 
Markle  Handicraft  School    (Higgins),   437 
Mars  Hill,  438;  College,  438 
Marsh  House  (Bath),  554 
Marshall,    463 
Martin,   Alexander,   204 
Martin,  Col.  Jack,  395 
Martin,   John   396 
Martin,  Josiah,  39,  222,  289 
Martinsville,  site,  384 
Masa,    George,    118 
Masonboro  Sound,   288 


INDEX 


593 


Masonic  Opera  House  (New  Bern),  127, 
230 

Masonic  Temple  (Halifax),  317 

Masonic  Temple  (New  Bern),   127,  230 

Matrimony  Creek,   382 

Maxton,  537 

Maynard,   Lt.  Robert,   554 

Mayodan,  383 

Maysville,  286 

Mebane,    483 

Mecklenburg  Declaration,  39,  160,  380 

Mecklenburg   Resolves,    160 

Meish  grapes,  284 

Mellon,   Andrew,    458-59 

Melrose,    469 

Memminger,    Christopher    G.,    grave,    466 

Memorial    Auditorium    (Raleigh),    244 

Mendenhall    House    (Jamestown),    374 

Meredith  College,  347 

Meredith,   Rev.  Thomas,   228,   347 

Method,   347 

Methodists,  see  Churches;   Religion 

Metropolis    (ship),   wreck,   293-94 

Micaville,   431 

Michaux,   Andre,   414,   430,    507 

Middleburg,    343 

Midgett,   Capt.   John   Allen,   300 

Miller,    Helen   Topping,    140 

Millersville,    411 

Mills  Home    (Thomasville),   375 

Mills,    Quincy   Sharpe,    404 

Mills,   Robert,   377 

Milton,  366 

Minerals,  20-23;  bromine,  22;  clay,  21, 
22;  coal,  21;  coal  mines,  548;  copper, 
21;  Cranberry  iron  mine,  429;  feldspar, 
21,   22,    430;   gems,   22,    23,   473;   gold, 

21,  417-18,  550;  granite,  377,  394; 
iron,    21;    kaolin,    22,    430;    mica,    21, 

22,  430,  442;  pyrophyllite,  549;  talc, 
22,  442;  tin,  21;  silver,  21;  stone,  21; 
vermiculite,    22 

Mining,   see  Minerals 

Minneapolis,    429 

Minnesott  Beach,   286 

Mint  Museum    (Charlotte),   129,   166-67 

Misenheimer,    397 

Mitchell   College    (Statesville),    404 

Mitchell,  Dr.  Elisha,  431,  534;  grave,  534 

Mitchell  Falls,  431 

Mocksville,  499 

Modes  of  Travel,  64-70;  air  lines, 
70;  buses,  69;  early  vehicles,  65;  early 
water  craft,  64,  65;  highways,  67,  68 
Indian  trails,  64;  raihoads,  69;  stage 
coaches,  66,  67;  street  railways,  69 
waterways,  64,  65 

Monitor,    U.S.S.,    wreck,    301-2 

Monroe,  539 

Monroes   Crossroads,   battle,    327 


Montezuma,    415 

Montfort,  Joseph,  230;  grave,  317 

Monticello,    373 

Montmorenci   (near  Warrenton),   128,  480 

Montreat    (Presbyterian    assembly),    531 

Moody   Tavern,    392 

Moore,   Alfred,   grave,   308 

Moore,   Col.   Maurice,   307,   312 

Moore,    Judge    Alfred,    370 

Moore,    King   Roger,    306 

Moore,   Thomas,    277 

Moorefields,    370-71 

Moores    Creek    Bridge,    battle,    39,    527-28 

Moores     Creek     National     Military     Park, 

527-28 
Mooresville,    405 
Moorings,    288 
Moravian  Falls,  410 
Moravian      Graveyard       (Winston-Salem), 

262-63 
Moravians,   see   Architecture ;    Churches; 

Religion;    Winston-Salem 
Mordecai   House    (Raleigh),   243 
Morehead   Bluffs,    518 
Morehead   City,   518-19 
Morehead,  John  Motley   (1 796-1 866),  206, 

513-14;    519;  grave,   212 
Morehead,    John    Motley    (b.    1870),    155, 

513 

Morganton,   501-2 

Morris,  Robert,   139;  will,  417 

Morrison,  Dr.  Robert  Hall,  426 

Morven,    400 

Mosby   Hall    (Littleton),   475 

Moseley,  Edward,    185,   515 

Moseley,       William       Dunn,       birthplace, 

515 
Moth  boat,  195 
Mother   Vineyard,    298 
Motor   vehicle   laws,   xxiv 
Mount  Airy,   394 
Mount  Gilead,   549 
Mount  Holly,  427 
Mount  Mitchell   State   Game   Refuge,   504, 

535 

Mount  Mitchell  State  Park,  535 

Mount  Mourne,   405 

Mount   Olive,    330 

Mount    Pleasant,    538-39 

Mount  Sterling,  452 

Mount   Vernon   Springs,    525 

Mountain  Island,  427 

Mountain   Region,   3-5;   farming,   62 

Mountains:  Alarka,  444;  Appalachians,  10; 
Balsam,  560;  Balsam  Cone,  504;  Bar- 
retts, 410;  Bearpen,  507;  Beaucatcher, 
148;  Big  Bald,  437;  Black  Brothers, 
535;  Blackrock,  507;  Blacks,  503,  534; 
Blue  Ridge,  10,  530;  Bowers,  429; 
Brushy,    410;    Cattail    Peak,    535;    Celo, 


594  INDEX 

Mountains    (continued) 

535;  Charlie's  Bunion,  458;  Chilhowee, 
560;  Chimney  Rock,  545;  Clingmans 
Dome,  457-58;  Collins,  457;  Cowee, 
472;  Craggy  Dome,  438;  Craggy  Pin- 
nacle, 438;  Crowders,  425;  Elk,  147- 
48;  Flat  Top,  419;  Fodderstack,  507; 
Grandfather,  414;  Grandmother,  414; 
Gregory  Bald,  458;  Guyot,  452;  Hein- 
toogah  Bald,  449;  Hibriten,  421;  How- 
ards Knobb,  413;  Indian  Grave,  421; 
Jones,  532;  JumpofF,  465;  Kephart, 
458;  Max  Patch,  441;  Mingus,  457; 
Mitchell,  432,  504,  534;  Nantahalas, 
508;  Nigger,  412,  413;  Occoneechee, 
483;  Paddy,  412;  Phoenix,  412;  Pilot, 
395;  Pisgah,  439,  446,  447;  Plott  Bal- 
sam, 449;  Pores  Knob,  410;  Potato 
Knob,  535;  Potato  Hill,  504;  Rendez- 
vous, 490;  Rich,  462;  Roan,  434;  Rock, 
506;  Round,  470-71;  Rumbling  Bald, 
544;  Saluda,  469;  Sand,  421;  Satulah, 
507;  Sauratown,  393,  479;  Shoal 
Creek,  454;  Smokies,  10,  559-61; 
Spivey,  439;  Standing  Indian,  508; 
Sterling,  451;  Sugar  Loaf,  410,  504; 
Sunset,  147;  Table  Rock,  503;  Tryon, 
470;  Uharie,  390-91,  498;  Wayah  Bald, 
508;    Whiteside,    506,   507 

Moyock,  292 

Mulberry  Gap,   408 

Mulberry    Island    Farm,    383 

Murfreesboro,    474 

Murphey,  Archibald  De  Bow,  43,  79,  no, 
236,    369 

Murphy,   445 

Murray  chair  plant,   512 

Museum  of  the  Wachovia  Historical  So- 
ciety   (Winston-Salem),    263-66 

Museum,   State    (Raleigh),   241 

Music,    1 14-15 

Myers   House    (Washington),    284 

Nags  Head,   296-97;  Beach,   296 

Nantahala,  444 

Nantahala   Gorge,    444 

Nantahala  National  Forest,  see  Forests, 
National 

Nash,  Abner,   227 

Nash,   Frederick,   370 

Nash,  Gen.  Francis,  368 

Nash  House   (Elizabeth  City),  194 

Nash    House    (Hillsboro),    370 

Nashville,    340 

National  Cemeteries:  New  Bern,  231; 
Raleigh,  243;  Salisbury,  377;  Wil- 
mington,  256-57 

National  Forests,  see  Forests,  National 

National    Parks,    see    Parks,    National 

Natural     Setting,     8-24;     climate,     n; 


Natural   Setting    (continued') 

fauna,    14-19,    561;    flora,    n-14,    560; 
physiography,  8-1 1;  resources,  19-24 

Negro  Head   Road,   331 

Negroes,  51-57;  black  code,  46;  death 
rate,  53;  education,  56;  farming,  54, 
55;  first  public  schools,  223;  folkways, 
97;  health  and  public  welfare,  53,  54; 
history,  51-53;  hospitals,  54;  occupa- 
tions and  town  life,  55;  population 
analysis,  51;  professional  life,  55;  racial 
discriminations,  56,  57;  slave  population 
before  1790,  37;  slavery,  51,  52;  songs, 
114,   115;  voters,  57;  see  also  Religion 

New  Bern,  35,  221-32;  academy  build- 
ing, 229-30;  architecture,  221,  descrip- 
tion, 221;  Federal  occupation,  222;  his- 
tory,  221-23;    industry    and   trade,    223 

New    Holland,    552 

New   Inlet,    300 

Newfound   Gap,  457 

Newland,  415 

Newport,    517-18 

Newton,    422 

Ney,  Peter  Stuart,    405 

Nicholson,    Francis,    185 

Nissen  Wagon  Co.  plant  (Winston- 
Salem),  271 

Nixonton,   305 

Nohoroco,  Fort,  312 

Norman,  387 

North  Carolina  Coastal  Experiment  Sta- 
tion,  331-32 

North  Carolina  College  for  Negroes 
(Durham),  173-76 

North  Carolina  Gazette,  first  newspaper, 
38,  225 

North   Carolina   Orthopedic   Hospital,    542 

North    Carolina    Sanatorium,    358-59 

North  Carolina  School  for  Negro  Deaf 
and  Blind,  514 

North  Carolina  School  for  the  Deaf 
(Morganton),    502 

North  Carolina  State  College  of  Agricul- 
ture and  Engineering,  245-46;  experi- 
mental farm,  514 

North    State    Pottery    (Sanford),    349 

North    Wilkesboro,    408 

Norwood,    398 

Nye,   Bill,   464;   grave,    464 

Oak      Ridge      Military       Institute       (Oak 

Ridge),   487 
Oaksmith,    Appleton,    223,    518 
Occoneechee    Farm,    482 
Ocean    Port    Terminal     (Morehead    City), 

519 
Ocracoke,   523 

Odd   Fellows   Building    (Beaufort),   520 
Odum,   Howard   W.,    115,    151,    153 


INDEX 


595 


O.  Henry,  pseud.,  see  Porter,  William 
Sydney 

O'Kelly,    James,    526 

Old   Dock,   338 

Old  East  Building  (Chapel  Hill),  126, 
150,  153-54 

Old  Fort,   504 

Old  Hundred,  538 

Old  North  State,  8 

Old  North  State   (song),  227 

Old  Trap,   292 

Old   Well    (Chapel   Hill),    153 

Oldtown    (Bethabara),    488 

Olmsted,  Frederick  Law,  353 

Olmsted,   Frederick   Law,    Sr.,    145 

Omar   Khayyam   Art  Pottery,   440 

Onion   Skin   Falls,   454 

Open   Grounds,    521 

Orange  County  Courthouse  (Hillsboro), 
129,   368 

Ordinary,    Old    (Littleton),    475 

Oregon  Inlet,  300 

Orton   Plantation,    126,    306-7 

Oteen  (Veterans'  Administration  Hospi- 
tal), 532 

Overhills,  327 

Owen,  John,  grave,  364 

Oxford,  354-55;  Orphanage,  355 

Oxford    Dam,    411 

Pack,  George  Willis,    140 

Paddyrollers,    342 

Page,    Frank,   grave,    350 

Page,  Walter  Hines,  no;  birthplace,  347- 
48;  grave,  350 

Paint  Rock,  461 

Painting,    1 15-18 

Palmer,  Alice  Freeman,  Memorial  Insti- 
tute  (Sedalia),  485 

Palmer,  Arthur,  Museum   (Marble),  445 

Pamlico  Sound,  297,  523 

Pantego,    551 

Parapet    (near   Fayetteville),   357 

Pardo,  Capt.  Juan,  28 

Parks:  Karyae,  425;  Moses  H.  Cone 
Memorial,    419 

Parks,  National,  xxvi;  Cape  Hatteras  Sea- 
shore, 301;  Great  Smoky  Mountains, 
451,  455-58,  559-61;  Guilford  Court- 
house Military,  384-85;  Moores  Creek 
Military,    527-28 

Parks,  State,  xxvi;  Cape  Hatteras,  301; 
Crabtree  Creek,  348;  Fort  Macon,  518; 
Hanging  Rock,  393;  Morrow  Moun- 
tain, 550;  Mount  Mitchell,  535;  Petti- 
grew,   495;   Rendezvous  Mountain,   490 

Parkwood,    548 

Pasquotank  Harbor,   190 

Paton,   David,    129,   237 

Patterson,   420 


Patterson,   Rufus  Lenoir,   II,    155 
Patterson   School    (Legerwood),   420 
Payne,    Anne    Blackwell,    no 
Paynes   Tavern,    site,    361-62 
Pea    Island    Refuge,    300 
Peace,    Junior    College    (Raleigh),    242-43 
Pearson,    Judge   Richmond   Mumford,    489 
Pearson,  Richmond,   489 
Pearson's    Falls,    469 
Peery,  Rob  Roy,    115 
Pelham,  372 
Pembroke,  537 

Pender,    William    Dorsey,   grave,    311 
Penderlea  Farms,  332 
Pendleton  Place    (Warrenton),   477 
Penland,  433 
Penn,   F.   R.,   373 
Penn,    John,    354;    grave,   385 
Penn,    S.    T,    373 

Perquimans     County     Courthouse      (Hert- 
ford), 279 
Person,   Gen.   Thomas,    154,    478 
Person   Hall    (Chapel   Hill),    154 
Petrified  wood,  548 
Pettigrew,   Gen.   James  Johnston,  495 
Pettigrew,   Rev.   Charles,   85,    185,   494 
Pettigrew   State  Park,    495 
Pheiffer     Junior     College      (Misenheimer), 

397 

Phifer  Home,   379 

Phifer,    Robert,    collection,    236 

Phillips,  Samuel   F.,   156 

Piedmont    Experiment    Station,    405 

Piedmont  Plateau,   3-6,  9-10;   farming,   62 

Piedmont   Springs,  393 

Pigott,   Emeline,   231 

Pilmoor,    Joseph,    86,    293 

Pinchot,   Gifford,    144 

Pine    Hall,    388 

Pinebluff,   350 

Pinehurst,  352-53 

Pinehurst  Mills    (Hemp),  548 

Pineland    College    (Salemburg),    335 

Pineola,  415 

Pineville,   406 

Pink  Beds,  447 

Pirate   House    (Ocracoke),   524 

Pisgah  Forest   (village),  505 

Pisgah   Forest  Pottery,   439 

Pisgah   National   Forest,   see  Forests,   Na- 
tional 

Pittsboro,  363-64;  Scientific  Academy,  364 

Pivers   Island,    519 

Pix  Head  Rock,  484 

Pleasant  Gardens,  site,  503 

Pleasant   Hill,    343 

Plott  hounds,  458 

Plumtree,   430 

Plymouth,    496;    battle,   496 

Pocosin,  Lakes,  286,  517 


596  INDEX 


Poe,  Clarence,  236 

Poe,  Edgar  Allan,  legend,  277 

Point  Harbor,   294 

Point  Lokoout   (Nantahala  Gorge),  460 

Point  Lookout   (Royal  Gorge),  530 

Polk,  Col.  Leonidas  L.,  60 

Polk,   Col.   Thomas,    160;   grave,   162 

Polk,  Ezekiel,   424 

Polk,  James  Knox,  155,  160,  377;  birth- 
place, 406-7 

Polk,  William  T.,   109,  476 

Pollock,  Col.  Thomas,  221,  222,  286; 
grave,   185 

Pollocksville,    286 

Polycarp,    411 

Poole's    Wood,    514 

Pop   Castle  Inn,   site,   345 

Poplar  Mount,  342-43 

Population,  8,  44;  early  social  divisions, 
37;   racial   elements,   36 

Populists,   61,  249 

Porter,    Sydney,   383 

Porter,  William  Sydney,  109,  140,  438; 
birthplace,    205-6;  grave,    146 

Portis  gold   mine,   340 

Portsmouth,    523 

Pory,    John,    33,    181,    281 

Post,   James   F.,    129,   254,   256 

Powell  House,   497 

Precipitation,    1 1 

Presbyterians,   see   Churches;    Religion 

Price,   382 

Princeton,  515 

Princeville,    310 

Public  Education,  79-83;  adult,  83;  col- 
leges and  universities,  82;  first  public 
schools,  43;  illiteracy,  83;  Negroes,  56; 
private  academies,  80;  site  of  first 
school,  304-5;  State-financed,  80;  sta- 
tistics,   80,    81;   see  also  Religion 

Puckett,    Widow,    House     (Chapel    Hill), 

157 
Purdy  House,  323-24 
Purley,   365 

Quaker  Meadows,   502 
Quaker  Meetinghouse   (Jamestown),  374 
Quakers,   see   Churches;   Religion 
Qualla    Boundary,    see    Cherokee    Reserva- 
tion 
Quanky    Chapel    (Halifax),   site,    317 
Queens-Chicora    College    (Charlotte),    167 
Queen's  College    (Charlotte),  38,    166 

Raeford,   358 

Ragan  House,  390 

Railroads,  xxiii,  69;  Atlantic  &  North 
Carolina,  518;  E.T.  &  W.N.C.,  413; 
North  Carolina,  44;  Raleigh  Experi- 
mental, 69,  237;  Raleigh  &  Gaston,   44, 


Railroads    {continued) 

69,    235;    Western   North   Carolina,    44; 
Wilmington  &  Raleigh,   44,  69,  315 

Rainbow   Springs,    509 

Rains,    Gabriel,    323;    birthplace,    230 

Rains,    George    W.,    223;    birthplace,    230 

Ralegh,  Citie  of,  32 

Raleigh,  233-46;  description,  233-34; 
early  schools  and  taverns,  235;  Federal 
occupation,  235;  first  railroad,  235;  his- 
tory, 234-36;  industry  and  trade,  235- 
36;    Reconstruction   assembly,    235 

Raleigh,   Fort,   298 

Raleigh  Register,  first  daily  newspaper, 
41.    235 

Raleigh,    Sir   Walter,    31,    32 

Ramseur,    498 

Ramsgate  Road,  348,  357 

Ramsours    Mill,    battlefield,    423 

Randleman,    385 

Rankin  House,  485 

Ransom,  Matt  W.,  475 

Ravenscroft,    John    Stark,    85,    242 

Ravensford,   456 

Recreation,    see    Sports    and    Recreation 

Recreational  areas,  xxv;  coast,  xxv;  lakes, 
xxv,  xxvi;  national  forests,  xxvi;  Na- 
tional parks,  xxvi;  rivers,  xxvi;  State 
parks,   xxvi 

Red    Shirts,    249 

Red   Springs,  358 

Reed   Gold   Mine,   550 

Reforestation,    20 

Regulators,  38,  39,  232,  367,  369,  498, 
538-39;  at  Alamance,  485;  site  of 
hanging,  370 

Reich,  Christian,  House  (Winston-Salem;, 
269 

Reid,  Christian,  pseud.,  see  Tiernan. 
Frances    Fisher 

Reid,   David   S.,   372 

Reid   House,   383 

Reidsville,   372-73 

Religion,  84-89;  Anglican  Church,  37, 
84,  85;  Associate  Reformed  Presbyterian 
assembly  (Bonclarken),  466;  Baptist  as- 
sembly (Ridgecrest),  530;  Baptists,  85; 
Constitutional  test,  86,  87;  denomina- 
tional colleges,  88,  89;  Episcopal 
assembly  (Kanuga  Lake),  465;  German 
Reformed,  86;  Great  Revival,  87; 
Greek  center  (Karyae),  425;  Lutheran, 
86;  Methodist  assembly  (Lake  Juna- 
luska),  440-41;  Methodists,  85,  86; 
Moravians,  66,  86;  Negroes,  57,  86; 
Presbyterian  assembly  (Montreat),  531; 
Presbyterians,  86;  Quakers,  84,  site  of 
first  meetinghouse,  304;  Y.M.C.A.  as- 
sembly (Blue  Ridge),  531;  see  also 
Churches 


I  NDEX 


597 


Rendezvous   Mountain   State  Park,   490 

Reptiles,    15-16;    venomous,    xxv 

Resources,    natural,    19-24 

Rex,  John,  236 

Reynolda,   488 

Reynolds,  Richard  J.,  261,  271 

Reynolds,  R.  J.,  Office  Building  (Winston- 
Salem),    133,    269 

Reynolds,  R.  J.,  Tobacco  Co.  plant  (Win- 
ston-Salem), 269-70 

Rhett,  Col.  William,  290 

Rhododendron    Gardens    (Craggy),    438 

Rhododendron  Gardens  (near  Blowing 
Rock),    414 

Rhyne  House,  427 

Rich  Mountain   Gap,   490 

Richardson,    Henry    Smith,    406 

Richardson   House    (New   Bern),   227 

Richlands,    314 

Richmond  Hill,  489 

Ridgecrest,   530;   Baptist  assembly,   530 

Ridgeway,  343 

Rivers,  xxv,  xxvi,  9,  n -12;  Alligator,  492; 
Bay,  286;  Broad,  504,  543,  545;  Cape 
Fear,  247,  248,  289,  335,  527,  first 
settlement,  306;  Cane,  437;  Catawba, 
421,  424;  Cheoah,  458;  Chowan,  281; 
Cullasaja,  508;  Davidson,  505;  Deep, 
348,  386,  498;  Elk,  428;  French  Broad, 
138,  463;  Green,  469;  Haw,  498; 
Hiwassee,  510;  Linville,  415;  Little, 
549;  Little  Alligator,  492;  Little  Ten- 
nessee, 458,  472,  473;  Lumber,  324; 
Meherrin,  474;  navigable,  xxv;  Nan- 
taha'la,  444;  Neuse,  221,  515;  New, 
287;  North  Toe,  429;  Oconaluftee,  455; 
Pacolet,  469;  Pasquotank,  190,  291; 
Pee  Dee,  376;  Perquimans,  279;  Pigeon, 
440,  452;  Roanoke,  283,  309,  475: 
Rocky,  398;  Scuppernong,  494;  suitable 
for  water  sports,  xxvi;  Tar-Pamlico, 
283,  320;  Toe,  429;  Toxaway,  506; 
Trent,  221;  Tuckasegee,  442;  Uharie, 
386,    499;    Yadkin,    376,    408,    479 

Roanoke   Island,   297;   battle,   297 

Roanoke  Rapids,   475;   damask  mills,   475 

Roaring    Gap,    401 

Robbins,  Dr.  J.  L.,  374 

Robbinsville,    459-60 

Robertson,    James,    413 

Rock  House    (near  Gap),   395-96 

Rockefeller^  Laura  Spelman,  Memorial,  559 

Rockford,   395 

Rockingham,  351 

Rocks,   the,   248,   529 

Rocky  Mount,   320;   cotton  mills,   320 

Rodanthe,  300 

Rogers  magnetic   iron  ore,   393 

Roper,  495 

Rose   Hill    (Locust  Hill),   478 


Roseboro,   335 

Rosefield   (Windsor),   282 

Rosman,   506 

Round    Mountain,    battle,    471 

Rowan     County     Courthouse     (Salisbury), 

129,   377 
Rowland,   324 
Roxboro,    361 
Royal    Gorge,    530 
Ruckstuhl,    F.    Wellington,    118,    240 
Rudisill    gold    mine    (Charlotte),    168 
Ruffin,  Judge  Thomas,  370 
Rugby   Grange,    464 
Russell,   Daniel,    287 
Russell,  Phillips,   ill,   153 
Russellborough,   site,    307 
Rutherford    College,    500 
Rutherford,    Gen.    Griffith,    29,    138,    422, 

442,    504,    508,    532 
Rutherfordton,    417-18 

Sacred  Heart  Academy   (Belmont),   541 
St.  Augustine's  College   (Raleigh),  243 
St.    Helena,    3^2-^^ 
St.    Mary's    School    (Raleigh),    245 
Salem    College     (Winston-Salem),    267-68 
Salem    Land     Office     Building     (Winston- 
Salem),  262 
Salem  Tavern,  66,  269 
Salemburg,    335 

Salisbury,   376-78;   prison  site,  378 
Saluda,  469 
Salvo,  301 
Samarcand,   387 
San  Domingo,   536 
Sanders  House,  383 

Sandhills  Land  Utilization  Project,  350-51 
Sandhills    Region,    61 
Sandy   Point,    battle,    182 
Sanford,   348-49 

Sanford   House    (Fayetteville),    199 
Sapphire,  506 

Saunders,  William  L.,   m;  grave,  311 
Savanna,    9,    13 

Sawyer   House    (Camden),    292 
Sawyers'    Lane    battlefield,    277 
Schenck,   Carl   Alvin,    144 
Schenck,    Michael,    426 
Schofield,   Gen.    John   McA.,    46 
Schools,  see  Public  Education 
Scotland  Neck,  309 
Scott,  Gen.  Winfield,  30,  442-43,  455 
Sculpture,    11 6- 18 
Scuppernong  Farms,  494-95 
Scuppernong    grapes,    284,    298,    331 
Secession,    ordinance,    45,    235 
Sedgefield,   373-74 
Sedgely  Abbey,  site,  529 
Selma,   322 
Sequoyah    (George  Guess),   29 


598 

Settle,  Thomas  P.,  212,   383 

Sevier,    John,    29,    41,    413;    trial,    502 

Shackleford   Banks,   520 

Shallotte,    290 

Shallow  Ford,  489;  skirmish,  260 

Sharp,  Cecil   J.,   114 

Shaw,   Duncan,   House,   357 

Shaw   University    (Raleigh),    244 

Shawboro,    292 

Shelby,    543 

Shell    Castle,    524 

Shepard-Pruden  Memorial  Library  (Eden- 
ton),    187 

Sherman,  Gen.  William  T.,  at  Bennett 
House,  482;  at  Bentonville,  334;  at 
Fayetteville,   197;  at  Raleigh,  241 

Sherwood    Home     (Greensboro),    206 

Shine,  Elizabeth,   223 

Shipp,   Lt.   William  Ewen,   162 

Shooting  Creek,   509 

Shuford    Mills    (Hickory),    422 

Siamese    Twins,    394-95,    408 

Siler  City,  4987  525 

Silver,  Frankie,  431;  trial  and  hanging, 
502 

Simmons,  Furnifold  M.,   223,  331 

Simpson-Duffy  House  (New  Bern),  223 

Sims,  Marian,  109,  no 

Sligo,  292 

Sloan   Gardens    (Satulah   Mt.),   507 

Slocum  Creek,  517 

Slocumb,   Ezekiel    and   Mary,    329-30 

Slocumb  Flouse    (Goldsboro),   329 

Slover-Guion  House   (New  Bern),  227 

Small  House   (Elizabeth  City),   193-94 

Smallwood-Ward  House  (New  Bern), 
127,  226 

Smathers    House,    440 

Smith,  Benjamin,   156,   289,   306 

Smith,  Dr.  C.  Alphonso,  406 

Smith,   Dr.   E.   E.,   202 

Smith,  Dr.  Henry  Louis,  406 

Smith,    Dr.,    House    (Buckland),    278 

Smith,  Gen.  William,  House  (Ansonville), 
398 

Smith  Island,  289 

Smith,  Johnson  C,  University  (Char- 
lotte),  168 

Smith,  Orren  Randolph,  345 

Smithfield,   322-23,    380;   art  pottery,   323 

Smoke  Hole,  454 

Smokemont,    457 

Smyrna,   522 

Sneads    Ferry,    287 

Snow   Hill,   312 

Soco  Gap,    449 

Soco  Falls,  450 

Somerset  (Lake  Phelps),  495 

Sondlcy,  Forster  A.,   in,   141 

Sondley  Library  (Asheville),  141 


INDEX 


Sophia,    391 

Sothel,   Seth,   supposed  grave,   278-79 

South     (Main)     Building     (Chapel    Hill), 

153 

South  Mills,   277 

Southern  Furniture  Exposition  Building 
(High    Point),    216-17 

Southern  Highland  Handicraft  Guild,  120, 
467 

Southern  Pediatric  Seminar  (Saluda), 
469 

Southern  Pines,  349-50 

Southern  Summer  School  for  Workers  in 
Industry,  83 

Southport,   289 

Spach,   Adam,  House,   396 

Spaight,  Richard  Dobbs,  150,  227;  duel 
with  Stanly,  230,  517;  grave,  516-17 

Spaight,  Richard  Dobbs,  younger,  227; 
grave,  516-17 

Spangenburg,  August  Gottlieb,  259,  413, 
502 

Sparta,    401 

Spartanburg  Baby  Hospital   (Saluda),  469 

Spencer,  376 

Spencer,   Cornelia   Phillips,    151,    156 

Sports  and  Recreation,  90-93;  baseball, 
92;  cock  fighting,  90;  football,  92; 
gander  pulling,  90;  golf,  92-93;  horse 
racing,  92;  militia  musters,  90,  91; 
square  dancing,  91;  tennis,  92;  tilting 
tournaments,  91,  92;  see  also  Fish; 
Game;  Recreational  areas 

Spray,  382 

Spring  Hope,   497 

Spruce  Pine,  430 

Sprunt,    James,    in 

Stacy,    522 

Stamp  Act,  defiance,  38,  248,  307 

Standing  Indian   State  Game  Refuge,   508 

Stanley,   427 

Stanly,  John,  birthplace,  229;  duel  with 
Spaight,  230,  517 

Stanly,   John   Wright,   229 

Stanly,  John  Wright,  House  (New  Bern), 
125,  229 

Stantonsburg,   341 

Starkey,  Col.  John,  287 

State  Art  Society,  236 

State  Capitol    (Raleigh),   126,   236-40 

State  College,   245-46 

State  Fairgrounds,  347 

State  Forest  Nursery,  514 

State  Hospital  for  the  Insane  (Morgan- 
ton),    503;    (Raleigh),    246 

State   Library    (Raleigh),   240-41 

State  Museum   (Raleigh),  241 

State  Normal  School  for  Negroes  (Fayette- 
ville), 201-2 

State  School  for  the  Blind   (Raleigh),  246 


INDEX 


599 


State  Supreme  Court  Building    (Raleigh), 

240-41 
State  Test  Farm    (Swannanoa),  532 
Statesville,    403-5 
Steamship  lines,  xxiii 
Steele,  Gen.  John,  377 
Steele,   Wilbur  Daniel,    109,   206 
Stephens,    John   W.,    366 
Stepps  Gap,  431 
Stinking  Quarter,  484 
Stockard,  Henry  Jerome,   no,  236 
Stokes,  Col.  John,  392 
Stokes   Mansion,    409 
Stokes,  Montfort,  409 
Stokesdale,  479 

Stone  House  (near  Salisbury),  397 
Stoneman,  Gen.   George,  378,   489,  501-2 
Stoneville,  382 

Stonewall  Jackson  Training  School,  380 
Stony  Point,  411 
Stovall,  354 
Straits,   521 

Strickland,  William,  166 
Stringfield,  Lamar,  115 
Struan,  464 

Strudwick,  Clement,   117 
Stumpy  Point,  552 
Sugar   Grove,    491 

Sully,  Thomas,   115;  self-portrait,  266 
Sulphur  Springs  Hotel  (Waynesville),  441 
Summerfield,    384 
Summerville,    526 

Sumner,  Gen.  Jethro,  66;  grave,  480 
Sunnybrook   Farm,    430 
Sunrise    View,    506 
Sunshine    Lady,    tomb     (Hendersonville), 

465 
Supply,  288 
Supreme  Court  Building,  State   (Raleigh), 

240-41 
Swain,  David  Lowry,  150;  birthplace,  147- 

48;  grave,  243 
Swain  House,  site   (near  Asheville),   147- 

48 
Swannanoa,    532 
Swannanoa   Tunnel,   530 
Swanquarter,    551-52 
Swansboro,    518 
Sylva,  442 
Symons   Creek,   304-5 

Tabor  City,  337 

Tar  Heel  State,  8 

Tar  Heels,  legend,  320 

Tar   Heels   All,    3-7 

Tarboro,  310-n 

Tate's    Academy,    38 

Taylorsvile,    410 

Teach,  Edward,  see  Blackbeard 

Teach's  Hole   (Ocracoke),  524 


Tecumseh,  Chief,   449-50 

Telfair  House   (Washington),  284-85 

Tennessee,    formation,    41 

Tennis,   92 

Terra  Ceia,  551 

Theater,  see  Arts 

Thermal  belt,  470 

Thomas,  Col.  William  H.,  30,   442,  450, 

455,  457 

Thomas  Legion,  30 

Thomasville,  375;  chair  factories,  375 

Thompson,  Holland,   in 

Thorne,  Crichton,  476 

Thurlow,  Maurice  R.   (ship),  302 

Tidewater  Region,  4,  9 

Tiernan,  Frances  Fisher,   109,  377 

Tobacco:  crop  value,  61;  development  un- 
der Dukes,  170-71;  see  also  Industry 
and   Industrial   Relations 

Tokay  Vineyard,  357 

Tomlinson  of  High  Point  plant  (High 
Point),  216 

Tomotla,   445 

Topsail  Inlet,  287 

Topton,  444 

Tory  Oak  (Wilkesboro),  409 

Totten,  Fort,   232,   516 

Tourgee,  Albion  W.,  108,  206,  384 

Tower  Hill,  515 

Town  Creek,   306 

Town,  Ithiel,  129,  237 

Transportation,  see  Modes  of  Travel 

Transylvania  Colony,  343 

Treasurer  Haywood  House  (Raleigh),  242 

Trenton,   286 

Trinity,   college   site,   390 

Trollinger,   Jacob,   483 

Troutmans,   405 

Troy,  549 

Truceland,    337 

Trumbauer,  Horace,  132,  177 

Tryon,  470 

Tryon   County,   542 

Tryon   County   Courthouse,   site,   542 

Tryon  Palace  (New  Bern),  125,  231-32 

Tryon,  William,  125;  suppression  of 
Regulators,   39,    485 

Tsali  (Old  Charley),  30,  442-43,  455 

Tuckasegee    Falls,    454 

Turkey,   330 

Turner,  James,  344 

Turner,  Mrs.   Kerenhappuch,   385 

Turnersburg,    402 

Turnpike    Hotel,    440 

Tuscarora    Beach,    278 

Twin  House    (Shawboro),  292 

Twin  Oaks,   412 

Uharie  National  Forest,  see  Forests,  Na- 

TIONAL 


6oo 


INDEX 


Union  League,  47 

United    States    Coast    Guard    Stations:    air 

base,    190;    Big  Kinnakeet,    301;   Chica- 

macomico,     300-1;     Fort    Macon,     518; 

Frisco,  302;  Ocracoke,  524;  Pea  Island, 

300 
United  States  Customhouse  (Wilmington), 

249-50 
University   of  North   Carolina,    6,    149-57; 

enrollment,       151;       faculty,        151-53; 

Greater    University,    151;    history,    149- 

51;    Press,    153;    schools    and    colleges, 

151 

Upjohn,  Hobart  B.,  157,  242,  255,  353 
Upjohn,  Richard,  130,  241,  245,  496 
Urmston,    Rev.    John,    123,    183 

Vade   Mecum   Springs,    393 

Valdese,    501 

Valle  Crucis  School,  429 

Vance,    Camp,    site,    501 

Vance,  David  I,  502;  grave,   438 

Vance,   David    II,   grave,   438 

Vance,  Dr.  Robert  Brank,  duel  with  Car- 
son, 466;  grave,  438-39 

Vance,  Gen.  Robert  B.,  457;  grave,   147 

Vance,  Zebulon  Baird,  45,  140,  235,  462, 
502,    503;    birthplace,    438;    grave,    147 

Vance,  Zebulon  B.,  House  (Statesville), 
404 

Vanceboro,   285 

Vanderbilt,  George  W.,   139,   144,   447 

Vardell,    Charles,    115 

Vaughan,  475 

Venable,  Francis  Preston,   151 

Verrazzano,    Giovanni    da,    31,    518 

Vilas,  490 

Vine  Hill  Academy   (Scotland  Neck),  309 

Virginia,  early  name  of  North  Carolina, 
32 

Virginia   boundary,    34 

Vogler,  John,  House  (Winston-Salem), 
268 

Vollmer,    Lula,    113,    140 

Wachovia   tract,    259-60 

Waddell,   Capt.   James   Iredell,   363 

Waddell,  Col.  Hugh,  307 

Waddell  House    (Pittsboro),   363 

Wade,  Col.  Thomas,  grave,   539 

Wadesboro,  399-400 

Wagram,  359 

Wait,   Samuel,  228 

Wake   County   Courthouse    (Raleigh),   244 

Wake  Forest,  346;  College,  346 

Waldcnsians,    501 

Walker,    David,    108 

Walker,    Felix,    139 

Walker,  Henderson,    84;  grave,    185 

Walkertown,    388 


Wallace,    331 

Wallace     Bros.     Herbarium      (Statesville), 
405 

Wallace  Gap,  508 

Wallis    Rock   House,    550 

Walnut,  463 

Walnut  Cove,  388 

Walton  War,  34,  505 

Wananish,   536 

Wanchese,  297 

Wanchese    (Indian),   31 

Warrenton,    476 

Warsaw,  330 

Washington,   283-85;   Field  Museum,   285 

Washington,  Col.,  home   (Goldsboro),  329 

Washington,    Col.    William,    390 

Washington  Cotton  Mills   (Mayodan),  383 

Washington,  Dr.  James  A.,  birthplace,  313 

Washington,  George:  at  Dobson's  Tavern, 
487;  at  Greenville,  511;  at  Halifax,  316; 
at  Hertford,  280;  at  New  Bern,  231;  at 
Reeds    Crossroads,    499;    at   Salem,    260, 
269;    at    Salisbury,    379;    at    Smithfield, 
380;    at    Trenton,    286;    Canova    statue, 
235;   Dismal   Swamp   Canal,   276 
Watauga  Settlements,  40,  413,  502 
Water  power,  23 
Waterville,    452 
Waxhaw,    539 

Wayah  State  Game  Refuge,  508 
Waynesboro,   site,   329 
Waynesville,    441 
Wayside  Cottage,  541 
Weaver,  John  Van  Alstyne,    no 
Weaverville,    438 
Webster,   453 
Weeksville,    304 
Weir   Point,   299 

Welch's  Inn,   site    (High  Point),   217 
Weldon,  315 
Wendell,  497 
Wentworth,    478-79 
Wesser,    444 

Wesson,    Laura,    grave,    217 
West    Jefferson,    413 
Western   Carolina   Teachers   College    (Cul- 

lowhee),   453 
Western   North   Carolina   Sanatorium,   532 
Wheeler,  John  H.,   no 
Whistler,  Ann,   birthplace,   255 
Whitaker  Plantation  House,  314 
Whitakers,  319 
White  Doe,  legend,  297 
White     Furniture     Co.    plant     (Mebane), 

483 
White,   John,   32,   298 
White  Lake   (village),   335 
White,  Newman  Ivey,   115 
White   Plains,    394 
Whiteville,    336 


INDEX 


60 1 


Whitfield,  George,  554 

Whittier,    442 

Wiggins,    Ella   May,    425 

Wild   Acres,    436 

Wiley,   Calvin   H.,   43,   261 

Wilkesboro,    408-9 

Willard,   331-32 

Williams,   Benjamin,    547 

Williams  Home  (Faison),  330 

Williams   House    (Bath),   555 

Williams,    S.    Clay,    406 

Williamsboro,   344 

Williamson,    Hugh,    182 

Williamston,    283 

Willsherr   Lodge,    479 

Willson,  Thomas  L.,   382 

Wilmington,  35,  247-57;  description, 
247-48;  harbor,  249;  history,  248-49; 
industry  and  trade,  249;  Light  In- 
fantry, 254;  river  port,  249;  ship  build- 
ing,  249;    yacht   basin,   249 

Wilmington    Beach,    529 

Wilmot,    442 

Wilson,  321-22 

Wilson,  James,  original  grave,   189 

Wilson,    Louis    D.,    311 

Wilson,  Peter  Mitchel,  476 

Wilson,  Rev.  Joseph  Ruggles,  255,  336 

Wilson,  Thomas  D.   (Big  Tom),  431,  534 

Wilson,  Woodrow,  255,  336,  377,  406 

Windsor,   282 

Windsor  Castle    (Windsor),  282 

Winfall,    279 

Wingfield,  280 

Winkler   Bakery    (Winston-Salem),    263 

Winston,   Maj.    Joseph,   385 

Winston,  Robert  W.,  m,  153 

Winston -Salem,  258-71;  description,  258- 
59;  history,  259-61;  industry  and  trade, 
261;  Moravians,  259-61;  Teachers  Col- 


Winston-Salem    {continued) 

lege,   271;   tobacco   manufacture,   260-61 
Winton,  278 

Wiscasset    Mills    (Albemarle),    398 
Wise,   Naomi,   385 
Witchcraft,    188 
Wolf  Creek  Falls,  454 
Wolfe,  Thomas  C,   109,   113,    140 
Woman's    College    of    the    University    of 

North  Carolina,   207-10 
Woman's   Industrial    Farm   Colony,    515 
Wood,    Charles    Winter,    206 
Woodfield,    466. 
Woodlawn,    416 
Woodrow,   441 
Wootten,   Bayard,    118 
World   War,   49 
Worst,  Edward  F.,  433 
Worth,  Jonathan,  46;  grave,  243 
Wright    Memorial    Monument,    295-96 
Wright,  Orville,   295 
Wright,   Wilbur,   295 
Wrightsville    Beach,    288 
Wrightsville    Sound,    288 
Wyatt,  Henry  L.,  311 

Yadkin  County  Courthouse   (Yadkinville), 

489 
Yadkin  Narrows,  550 
Yadkinville,   489 
Yancey,    Bartlett,    366 
Yanceyville,  365-66 
Yeamans,  Sir  John,  306 
Yeatsville,    551 
Yonaguska,   Chief,    30,   453 
York,   Brantley,    176 

Zebulon,   497 

Zinzendorf,  Count,  259,  267 

Zionville,  491 


Date    Due 
Due             Returned              Due           Returned 

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