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'Go, little book, Qod seod thee good passage, 
And specially let this be thy prayere : 
Unto them all that thee will read or hear, 
Where thoa art wrong, after their help to call, 
Thee to correct in any part or all I* 

1 36323 

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The chief object of the Handbook for Northern France, 
which now appears for the fifth time and corresponds with 
the eighth French edition, is to render the traveller as nearly 
as possible independent of the services of guides, commission- 
naires, and innkeepers, and to enable him to employ his time 
and his money to the best advantage. 

Like the Editor's other Handbooks, it is based on personal 
acquaintance with the country described, a great part of 
which has been repeatedly explored with the view of assuring 
accuracy and freshness of information. The Editor begs to 
tender his grateful acknowledgments to travellers who have 
sent him information for the benefit of the Handbook , and 
hopes they will continue to favour him with such communi- 
cations, especially when the result of their own experience. 

On the Maps and Plans the utmost care has been bestow- 
ed, ahd it is hoped that they will often be of material service 
to the traveller, enabling him at a glance to ascertain his 
bearings and select the best routes. 

A short account of the ordinary approaches to Northern 
France for English and American travellers will be found in 
the Introduction. 

Heights are given in the text in English feet, on the maps 
in metres (1 Engl. ft. « 0.3048 metre; 1 metre = 3.281 Engl. ft. 
or about 3 ft. 3V3 in.). Distances are given in English miles, 
or, in the case of mountain-routes, are expressed by the time 
they usually require. See also p. xxiii. 

In the Handbook are enumerated both the first-class hotels 
and those of humbler pretensions. The latter may often be 
selected by the 'voyageur en gargon' with little sacrifice of 
real comfort and considerable saving of expenditure. The 
asterisks indicate those hotels which the Editor has reason 
to believe to be provided with the comforts and conveniences 
expected in up-to-date establishments, and also to be well- 
managed and reasonable in their scale of charges. Houses of 


a more modest character, when good of their class, are de- 
scribed as *good' or *very fair'. At the same time the Editor 
does not doubt that comfortable quarters may sometimes be 
found at hotels that are unstarred and even unmentioned. 
Although prices generally have an upward tendency, the 
average charges stated in the Handbook will enable the tra- 
veller to form a fair estimate of his expenditure. 

To hotel-proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor 
begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing and cour- 
tesy towards travellers is the sole passport to his commen- 
dation, and that advertisements of every form are strictly 
excluded from his Handbooks. Hotel -keepers are also 
warned against persons representing themselves as agents 
for Baedeker's Handbooks. 


R. = Room, Route. 

A. = Attendance. 
L. = Light. 

B. = Breakfast. 
S. = Supper. 

Ddj. = Ddjeuner, Luncheon. 

D. = Dinner. 


M. = Engl. mile. 

ft. = Engl. foot. 

hr. = hour. 

min. = minute. 

N. = North, Northern, etc. 

S. = South, etc. 
E. = East, etc. 
W. = West, etc. 
fr. = franc. 
c. = centime. 
Jl = Mark, 
pf. = Pfennig. 
omn. = omnibus, 
carr. = carriage, 
comp. = compare, 
ca. = circa, about. 
P.L.M. = Paris - Lyon - M^diterranee 

The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates the year 
of his death. The number of feet given after the name of a place shows 
its height above the sea-level. The number of miles placed before the 
principal places on railway-routes and highroads generally indicates their 
distance from the starting-point of the route. 

Asteriakg are used as marks of commendation. 

Digitized by 




I. Language. Money. Expenses. Passports. Custom 

House. Octroi xi 

II. Routes to Northern France xii 

III. Period and Plan of Tour. Syndicats d*Initiative . . xiv 

IV. Railways. Public Conveyances xvl 

V. Cycling and Motoring xix 

VI. Hotels, Restaurants, and Caftfs xx 

VII. Public Buildings and Collections xxii 

VIII. Post and Telegraph Offices xxii 

IX. Weights and Measures xxiii 

X. Historical Sketch xxiv 

XI. Political Geography xxxii 


Northern France. 

I. North-Eastem France. 

1. From Calais to Amiens and Paris 3 

I. From Calais to Amiens 5 

a. Via Boulogne and Abbeville 5 

b. Via Hazebronck and Arras 16 

c. Vi& Anvin, St. Pol, Fr^vent, and Doullens .... 22 
II. From Amiens to Paris 23 

a. Via Creil 23 

b. Via Beauvais 24 

2. Amiens 24 

3. From Paris to Beauvais and Le Tr^port (Mers) 31 

I. From Paris to Beanvais 31 

a. Via Montsoult and Beaamont 31 

b. Via Chantilly and Creil 32 

II. From Beauvais to Le Tr^port 85 

4. From Dunkirk to Arras (Paris) 37 

5. From Amiens to Arras, Douai, and Valenciennes .... 41 

6. From Douai and Valenciennes to Lille and Courtrai ... 60 

I. Prom Douai to Lille 50 

II. From Valenciennes to Lille 50 

III. From Lille to Courtrai 51 

7. Lille 52 

8. From Paris to Cambrai 61 

a. Via Creil, St. Quentin, and Busigny 61 

b. Via Creil, St. Just, and P^ronne 61 

9. From Amiens (Calais, Boulogne) to ChMons-sur-Marne 
(Bale) via Laon and Rheims 63 

10. From Calais to Nancy (Strassburg) via Lille, Valenciennes, 
Hirson, and Longuyon ^ . . « 66 

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Route ^^® 

11. From Paris to Namur (BriiBBels, Cologne) 67 

a. Via St. Quentin and Maubeuge (Mons-Brussels) .... 67 

b. yi& Soissons, Laon, and Anor 75 

c. Via Soissons, Bheims, and K^zi^res . 78 

i2. From Paris to Bheims 81 

a. Via Meaux and La Fert^-Milon 81 

b. Via Soissons 81 

c. Via Meaux and Epernay 84 

13. Rheims 84 

14. From Paris to Metz 89 

a. Via Gh^ons and Frouard 89 

b. Via Chaions and Verdun 90 

c. Via Rheims and Verdun 98 

d. Via Rheims and K^zi^res-Gharleville 93 

15. From Paris to Nancy (Strassburg) 99 

I. From Paris to Chllons-sur-Mame 100 

II. From Ghalons-sur-Mame to Nancy 105 

16. Nancy 110 

n. Normandy. 

17. From Dieppe to Paris 119 

a. Via Rouen 122 

b. Via Gisors and Pontoise 126 

18. Ronen 128 

19. From Le Havre to Paris via Rouen 140 

20. From Dieppe to Le Havre 147 

Watering-Places between Dieppe and Le Havre . . ' . . . HI 

a. From Dieppe to Le Havre HI 

b. From Dieppe to St. Valery-en-Caux 149 

c. From Dieppe to Veulettes 150 

d. From Dieppe to Etretat 150 

21. Watering-Places in Calvados 152 

a. Trouville-Deauville, Villers-sur-Mer, Houlgate, and 

Cabourg ^52 

b. Lion-sur-Mer, Luc-sur-Mer, Langrune, St. Aubin -sur-Mer, 

and Courseulles 156 

22. From Cherbourg to Paris .158 

23. Caen 169 

24. From Cherbourg to Brest 176 

26. From Granville to Paris 178 

26. From Caen to Le Mans via Alen^on. Falaise 185 

27. From Caen to Laval via Domfront and Mayenne .... 188 

III. Brittany and the Banks of the Loire. 

28. St. Malo, St. Servan, Dinard, and their Environs ... 194 

I. St. Malo and Param^ 194 

II. St. Servan 197 

III. Dinard 197 

IV. Excursions from St. Malo 198 

29. From St. Malo to Rennes and Vannes (Quimper) .... 204 

I. From St. Malo to Rennes 204 

IL From Rennes to Vannes (Quimper) 208 

30. From Paris to Rennes 210 

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Route Page 

I. From Paris to Cbartres 210 

II. From Ghartres to Le Mans 214 

III. From Le Mans to Bennes 220 

31. From Rennes to Brest 223 

32. From St Brienc to Pontivy and Auray 233 

33. From St Brieuc to Quimper 234 

a. Vi& Auray 234 

b. Vi& Load^ac and Obateaulin 235 

c. Via Guingamp and Bosporden 336 

34. Excursions from St. Brieuc and from Guingamp .... 237 

35. Excursions from Morlaix 242 

36. From Brest to Nantes 246 

I. From Brest to Qnimper 246 

II. From Qnimper to Auray 248 

III. From Auray to Vannes and Nantes 251 

37. Frgm Auray to Quiberon. Plouhamel. Carnac. Locmariaquer 255 

38. Nantes 257 

39. From Paris to Nantes 266 

a. Via Le Mans, Sabl^, and Angers 266 

b. Via Le Mans, Sabl/, and Segr^ 268 

c. Via Orltons, Tours, and Angers 270 

40. Angers 272 

41. From Paris to Tours 279 ' 

a. Via Orleans and Blois 279 

b. Via Vendome 283 

42. Orleans 287 

43. Blois 291 

44. Tours 297 

IV. District between Paris, the Vosges, the Jura, and the Loire. 

45. From Paris to Troyes and Belfort 308 

46. From GblLlons-sur-Marne to Chaumont 325 

47. From Paris to Epinal (Vosges) 327 

a. Via Bar-le-Duc, Nancy, and Charmes 327 

b. Via Bar-le-Duc, Neufcbateau, and Mirecourt 328 

c. Via Troyes, Chaumont, Neufchateau, and Mirecourt . . 328 

d. Via Troyes, Jussey, and Darnieulles 330 

48. From Nancy to Dijon 333 

a. Via Toul, Neufchateau, and Oulmont-Chalindrey ... 333 

b. Vi& Mirecourt and Gulmont-Chalindrey 834 

c. Vi& Epinal, Vesoul, and Gray 335 

49. From Epinal to Belfort. Plombi^res 336 

50. From Nancy to Strassburg 340 

51. From Lun^ville to St. Di^ and Epinal 343 

52. Excursions into the Vosges from St. Ditf 345 

63. Excursions into the Vosges from Epinal 348 

54. From Belfort (Strassburg) to Dijon 361 

a. Via Montb^ard and Besan^on 361 

b. Via Vesoul and Besancon 861 

66. Besancon ' 363 

56. From Besancon to Neuchfitel 368 

57. From Besancon (Belfort) to Bourg (Lyons) . . .^ . . ,371 

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RoQte Page 

68. Excursions in the Jura 373 

59. From Paris to Dijon 386 

60. Dijon 394 

61. From Dijon to Neuchatel and to Lausanne 403 

62. Le Morvan. Auxerre. Autun 407 

63. From Dijon to Nevers 416 

a. Via Chagny, Montchanin, and Le Creusot 415 

b. Via Chagny and Autun 418 

B4. From Paris to Nevers 423 

a. Via Fontainebleau and Montargis 423 

b. Via Corbeil and Montargis 423 

c. Via Orleans and Bourges 426 

Index 437 


1. Map of Norlh-Eastern France^ before the title-page. 

2. The Environ* of ParU^ p. 68. 

3. The Valley of the Meuse^ p, 78. 

4. The Seine^ from Pont-de-rArche to Le Havre, p. 138. 

5. The Environs of Mont St. Michel^ p. 194. 

6. The Rance^ from Dinan to St Malo, p. 194. 

7. The Morbihan, p. 252. 

b. The Chateaux on thfi Loire^ p. 282. 

9. Map of Ecutern France (Central Part)^ p. 304. 

10. The Central Vosges Mts.y from the Schneeberg to the Col du Bonhomme, 

p. 345. 

11. The Southern Vosgee Mtt.^ from Fraize to Oirumagny, p. 349. 

12. The Environs of Qirardmer^ p. 350. 

13. The French Jura (South Part), p. 375. 

14. The French Jura (North Part), p. 383. 

15. Map of North-western France, aJter the Index. 

16. Railway Map of France, at the end of the book. 

Plans of Towns. 

1. Al)bevi1le . 

2. Amiens . 

3. Angers . 

4. Arras . . 

5. Autun . . 

6. Auxerre . 

7. Bar-le-Duc 

8. Beaune . 

9. Beauvais . 

10. Beifort. . 

11. Besan^on. 

12. BloU . . . . 

13. Boulogne - sur 
Mer . . 

14. Bourges 

15. Brest . 

16. Caen. . 

17. Calais . 


. 12|18 

. 24' 

. 272 19. 
. 18 

. 418 

. 40S 

. 106 

. 416 

. 33 

. 323 

. 364 





Chdlons ' sur 


Charleville . . . 
Chartres . . . . 
Cherbourg . . . 






36. Mont St. Michel 194 

37. Nancy 110 

38. Nantes 257 

39. Nevers 432 

40. Orlians .... 286 

41. Paris 1 

42. Provins .... 309 
194,43. Rennes 206 

Dole 404,44. Rheims .... 84 

Douai ..... 42'45. Rouen 128 

Dunkirk .... 38 46. St. Malo .... 194 


Epinal 331 

Langres . 
Loon . . 
Le Havre. 
Le Mans . 
Lille. . . 
Mizihres . 


47. St. Ctisentin. . . 72 

48. Sens. . . 

49. Tours 296 

50. Trouville. . . 

51. Troyes .... 

52. Valenciennts , 

53. Vannes. . . 

54. Verdun , . 




of Amiens Cathedral, p. 2C. 

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I. Language. Money. Expenses. Fassports. 
Custom House. Octroi. 

Language. A slight acquaintance with French is indispensable 
for those who desire to explore the more remote districts of Northern 
France, but tourists who do not deviate from the beaten track will 
generally find English spoken at the principal hotels and the usaal 
resorts of strangers. If, however, they are entirely ignorant of the 
French language , they must be prepared occasionally to submit to 
the extortions practised by porters, cab-drivers, and others of a like 
class, which even the data furnished by the Handbook will not 
always enable them to avoid. 

Money. The decimal Monetary System of France is extremely 
convenient in keeping accounts. The Banque de France issues 
Banknotes of 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, and 50 francs, and these 
are the only banknotes current in the country. The French Oold 
coins are of the value of 100, 50, 40, 20, and 10 francs; Silver coins 
of 5, 2, 1, and Y2 franc; Nickel of 25 centimes; Bronze of 10 and 
5 centimes (100 centimes = 1 franc). ^8ou^ is the old name, still 
in common use, for 5 centimes ; thus, a 5-franc piece is sometimes 
called *une piftce de cent sous', 2 fr. = 40 sous, 1 fr. = 20 sous, 
1/2 fr. sa= 10 sous. Italian, Belgian, Swiss, and Greek gold coins are 
received at their full value. Belgian, Swiss, an4 Greek silver coins 
(except Swiss coins with the seated figure of Helvetia) are also current 
at full value ; but Italian silver coins, with the exception of the 5-lira 
pieces, Roumanian, Spanish, and Papal silver coins, and all foreign 
copper coins should be reftised. The stranger should also be on his 
guard against counterfeit silver coins, and should refuse obsolete 
coins such as those with heads of Louis Philippe or of Napoleon 
without the laurel wreath. 

English banknotes and gold are also generally received at the 
full value in the larger towns. The table at the beginning of the 
book shows the comparative value of the French, English, American, 
and German currencies, when at par. Circular Notes or Letters of 
Credit^ obtainable at the principal English and American banks, are 
the most convenient form for the transport of large sums ; and their 
value, if lost or stolen, is recoverable. 

The traveller should always be provided with small change 
(petite monnaie)^ for the purpose of gratuities, etc. 

Expenses. The expense of a tour in Northern France depends of 
course on the tastes and habits of the traveller; but it may be stated 

Digitized by LjOOQIC 


generally that travelling in France is not more expensive than in 
most other countries of Europe. The pedestrian of moderate require- 
ments, who is tolerably proficient in the language and avoids the 
beaten track as much as possible, may limit his expenditure to 
12-15 fr. per diem, while those who prefer driving to walking, choose 
the dearest hotels, and employ the services of guides and commis- 
sionnaires must be prepared to spend at least 20-30 fr. daily. Two 
or three gentlemen travelling together will be able to journey more 
economically than a solitary tourist, but the presence of ladies 
generally adds to the expenses of the party. 

Passpobts are now dispensed with in France, but they are often 
useful in proving the traveller's identity, procuring admission to 
museums on days when they are not open to the public, obtaining 
delivery of registered letters, etc. Pedestrians in a remote district will 
often find that a passport spares them much inconvenience and delay. 

Passports may be obtained direct from the Foreign Office (fee 2«.)i or 
through C. Smith & Song. 23 Craven St., Charing Cross (fee 4«.)i Bvss^ 
4 Adelaide St., Strand (fee it.); Thos, Cook & Son»y Ludgate Circas (fee 3«. 
Gd.) ; and Henry Blacklock ds Co. ('Bradshaw's G aides), 59 Fleet St. (fee 5«.). 
— In the United States applications for passports should be made to the 
Passport Bureau^ State Department, Washington, D.C. 

Sketching, photographing, or making notes near fortified places 
sometimes exposes innocent travellers to disagreeable suspicions or 
worse, and should therefore be avoided. 

Custom House. In order to prevent the risk of unpleasant de- 
tention at the *douane' or custom-house, travellers are strongly re- 
commended to avoid carrying with them any articles that are not 
absolutely necessary. Cigars, tobacco, and matches are chiefly sought 
for by the custom-house officers. The duty on cigars amounts to 
about 13s., on tobacco toG-lOs. per lb. Articles liable to duty should 
always be ^declared'. Books and newspapers occasionally give rise to 
suspicion and may in certain cases be confiscated. The examination 
of luggage generally takes place at the frontier-stations, and travellers 
should superintend it in person. Luggage registered to Paris is 
examined on arrival there. 

Octroi. At the entrance to the larger towns an *Octroi', or muni- 
cipal tax, is levied on all comestibles, but travellers' luggage is usu- 
ally passed on a simple declaration that it contains no such articles. 
The officials are, however, entitled to see the receipts for articles 
liable to duty at the frontier. 

II. Boutes to Northern Trance. 
The quickest and easiest routes from England to Northern France 
are offered by the express through-services from London to Paris 
(see p. xiii). The steamers on the other routes, which are on the 
whole cheaper and may be more convenient for some travellers, 
will generally be found fairly comfortable. Particulars as to the days 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 


and hours of starting, wMcb are liable to vary, may be found in 
Bradshaw's Continental Railway Guide (monthly ; 2a.). Most vis- 
itors to France from the United States will probably travel via Eng- 
land, but those who prefer to proceed direct have opportunities by 
the weekly steamers of the Compagnie GinSrale Transatlantique from 
New York to Le Havre, the weekly steamers of the Hamburg-American 
Line and the Norddeutsrher Lloyd from New York to Cherbourg, the 
weekly steamers of the Holland' American Line from New York to 
Boulogne, etc. 

Traini de Luxe. Besides the ordinary train-service to and from Calais, 
Cherboargi Paris, Dijon, Strassbnrg. etc., there are a number of trains 
de Ivxe with restaurant-cars (d^j. 5, D. 7 fr.) and sleeping-cars, carrying 
first-class passengers only, wbo pay a supplement in addition to the ordinary 
fare. Tickets must be ol)tained in advance from the International SUepivg 
Car Co. (20 Cockspur St., London, or 5 Boulevard des Capucmes, Paris), 
from whom all information may be obtained. In many cases these trains do 
not accept passengers except for comparatively long distances. (1). Sitnplon 
Express from Calais to Venice via Paris, Dijon, and Pontarlier, daily. 
(2). Engadine Express from Calais to St. Moritz via Paris, Troyes, Belfort, 
and Bale, daily in summer. (3). Mediterranean Express from Calais to 
Ventimiglia via Paris and Dijon, in winter only. (4). New York Express 
from Cherboui^ (or Le Havre) to Paris in connection with the transatlantic 
liners. (5). Trouville Expi'ess from Trouville to Paris, daily in summer. 
(0). Nord Express from Paris to Berlin via St. Quentin and Liege, daily. 
(7). Orient Express from Paris to Budapest via Nancy and Strassburg, daily. 
(8). Carlsbad Express from Paris vi& Kancy and Strassburg, daily in summer. 
(9). Savoy Eapress from Paris to Aix-les-Bains via Dijon and Cnlos, thrice 
weekly. (10). Barcelona Express from Paris via Dijon, twice weekly, etc. 

a. Express Boutes from London to Paris. 

Vii DovEB AMD Calais. Express thrice daily, starting from Chjydng 
Cross, Cannon Street, Victoria, Holbom Viaduct, and St. Paul's stations, 
in 7»/4-9 hrs.; fares %. 16*. 8d.,,iJ. 19*. 8d., and 1/. 5«. 6<l. (3rd cl. by night 
service only), return-tickets, valid for one month, il. 15«. 9d., 3/. 9«. iOd., 
and 21. Os. %d. — From London to Calais, 3-4 hrs., fares 1;. iOs. 2d.. 1/. 
1«. 7d., iAs. 6d. — From Dover to Calais, I-IV* hr., fares 10«. lid., 8«. lid. 

Vi2 FoLKBBTOKB AND BouLOONB. Exprcss twice daily from Charing 
Cross and Cannon St. stations, in 7-8 hrs., fiires 21. iOs., il. Us. ?d., and II. 
2*. 9d., return-tickets, valid for a month, H. 7s. lOd., 3/. 3«., 1/. 17*. 6d. — 
From London to BotUoffne, 3Va-4V8 hrs., fares il. iSs. 6d., 1/. 0«. lOd., 12«. 
6d. — From Folkestone to Boulogne, V/f2 hrs., fares 9s. 5d., Is. 5d. 

Vi£ Kbwhavbk AND Dieppe. Express twice daily from Victoria and 
London Bridge stations in 83/4-9^/4 hrs.; fares dSs. 7d., 28s., iSs. Id. (Srdcl. 
by night service only), return-tickets, valid for a month, 3{. Ss. 5d., 21. 
9s. id., il. 13*. 3d. — From London to Dieppe, 61/2-672 hrs., fares 1/. Ss. Id.', 
20i., iis. 9d. — From Nmohaven to Dieppe, 3V2-4 hrs., fares 15<. 3d., iU. Id. 

Vii Southampton and Lb Havbb. Express from Waterloo station 
(daily, except Sun.), in 12Va-14 hrs., fares 11. 13s. lOd., il. 4*. lOd. (no 3rd 
cl.), return -tickets, valid for a month, 21. 16s. 8d., 21. 0«. 8d. — From 
London to Le Ravre, 10-12 hrs., 1/. 8». 4d., 1/. 0«. lOd. — From Southampton 
to Le Havre, 7-8 hrs., fares 23s., 17*. 

b. Other Boutes. 
Peom Southampton to St. Malo, steamer almost dai^yj'"^ ^1%J., 
to Sept. 15th (Sun. excepted), at other times every Tues., Tft^"-^ jq^.^ 
in 12 hrs. % returning every Mon., Wed , 4 Frid. Fares 23j. 10^^. J Londoo 
return-tickets, valid for six months, 36#..8d., 2^. 8d. Fares ^om 
to St. Malo, 35«. lOd., 25«. lOd., return-tickets 53«. 8d., ««. 

Digitized by Lj005^1C _ 

xiv 111. PLAN OF TOUR. 

From Southampton to Cuksbodbg, every Tues., Thurs., & Sat, in 7 hr».» 
returning every Hon., Wed., & Frid. Fares 20«. lOd., 14«. lOd., return- 
tickets, valid for six months, 'di$. 8(i., TAs. Sd. ; from London to Cherbnur;;, 
30<. 4J., 20«. lOd., return-tickets 46«. 8d., 31«. 9>d: 

ViA THB Channel IsxA^fOS, which are reached in summer by daily 
steamers from Southampton and from Weymouth (in winter thrice weekly 
from each port) or by weekly steamer from Plymouth (see below). — 'Fbom 
Jebsbt to St. Malo (3 hrs.), every Wed. & Frid. (returning every Wed. 
& Sat.), and to Okanvillb (^Vz hrs.). every Hon. A Thurs. (returning 
every Tues. A Thurs.). Fares to St. Malo 8«. lOd., 6«. lOd., return-tickets, 
valid for a month, 13«. 8d., 9^. Id.; to Granville 8<., St., return-tickets, 13«., 
Is. 6d. ; from London to GranviUe 35«., 25«., return-tickets 52<., 39«. 6tf. — 
FsoM GoERNSET TO GBERBouBa vift Alderney every Tues. (returning every 
Wed.) in 5-6 hrs.; fares 10«., Is. 6d., return- tickets, valid for a month, 
ibs. %d.y iOs. — From Gukbnsbt to St. Malo direct and to Binio, weekly 
in each case; fares H«. 6c<., 6«. 6<f., return-tickets 13<., 11«. 6d. — Fbox 
GoBBT to Gartbbrt, daily in summer in 1 hr. ; fares 7 fr. 55, 5 fr. 5, 
return 11 fr. 25, 7 fr. 50 c. 

From Plymouth to St. Brieuc via Guernsey and Jersey. Anglo-French 
Steamship Co., every M on. (returning every Wed.); fares 21Jr., 14«., return- 
tickets S2s., 22<. 

From Plymodth to Bekst (10 hrs.), Great Western Railway Co^s Steamer 
(^Antelope'), every Sat. (returning Tues. orWed.) ; fare 10*., return-ticket 15«. ; 
landing-dues at Brest 2 fr. (is. 8d.). 

To Boulogne direct. From London. Bennett Steamship Co.. thrice 
weekly in 9-10 hrs. (6 hrs.' river passage); fare 10*., return 17*. lOd. — 
General Steam Navigation Co.^ thrice weekly in summer ; fares &. 6d., return 
11». 6d. — From Goole. Bennett Steamship Co.^ thrice weekly in ca. 20 hrs. 

To Ddnkibk. From Leith, Geo. Gibson <fr Go's Steamer every Thurs. 
in ca. 36 hrs. (30<. ; return-ticket 50*.). Steamers also every few days from 
London (Wapping) in 10-12 hrs. (fare 10»., return 16«.); every week from 
Hull (about 24 hrs.) ; and every fortnight from Liverpool. 

Steamers also sadl at intervals of a week or longer from Liverpool to 
Le Havre, to St. Nazaire, etc. (see *Bradshaw'). 

m. Period and Flan of Tour. Syndicats d'Initiative. 

Season. Most of the districts described in this Handbook may 
be yisited at any part of the year, but winter is, of course, the least 
pleasant season, while spring and autumn are on the whole prefer- 
able to summer, especially when a large proportion of the trav- 
eller's time is spent in the cities and larger towns. The bathing- 
season at the watering-places on the N. coast generally lasts from 
June to September. Excursions in the elevated region of theVosges 
and the Jura are not possible, or at least pleasant, except in summer. 

Plan. The traveller is strongly recommended to sketch out a plan 
of his tour in advance , as this, even though not rigidly adhered 
to, will be found of the greatest use in aiding him to regulate his 
movements, to economise his time, and to guard against overlook- 
ing any place of interest. English and American tourists are apt to 
confine their interest in N. France to the districts through which 
they are whirled by the express-trains from the N. seaports to Paris : 
but the more leisurely traveller will find much to arrest his atten- 
tion and employ his time pleasantly in various parts of the country 
coming within the scope of this Handbook. Though N. France is 


less richly gifted with natural beauty than those parts of the country 
which border on the Alps or the Pyrenees, it still affords much 
attractive scenery in Normandy, Brittany, the valley of the Seine, 
the Yosges, and the Ardennes. On the other hand it is extremely 
rich in architectural monuments of the greatest importance, con- 
taining an unparalleled series of magnificent Gothic churches at 
Rouen, Amiens^ Bcauvais^ Caen, Chartres, Tours, Rheims, Bowges, 
Orleans, Troyes, and Laon, while the Romanesque style is well illus- 
trated in the abbey-churches of Caen and in many smaller examples. 
The ancient Abbey of Mont St Michel is, perhaps, the most pictur- 
esque edifice in France. Among secular edifices may be mentioned 
the magnificent Palais de Justice at Rouen, the Renaissance chateaux 
of Blois, Chambord, and others in Touraine, the mediasval castles of 
Pierrefonds, Coucy, Chdteau Qaillard, and Rambures , the mansion 
of Jacques Occur at Bourges, and the quaint old houses of Lisieux, 
Rouen, etc. The art collections of Lille are worthy of a great capital, 
and those of Douai, Caen, Valenciennes, Rennes, Nantes, Dijon, 
and Besant^on are also of considerable value. The busy commercial 
harbour of Le Havre and the military ports of Cherbourg and Brest 
deserve a visit, while Nancy, the ancient capital of Lorraine, has a 
special interest for the historical student. Lastly, mention must be 
made of the imposing megalithic antiquities of Camac, 

The pedestrian is unquestionably the most independent of travellers, 
and to him alone the beautiful scenery of some of the more remote districts 
is accessible. For a short tour a couple of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted 
stockings, slippers, the articles of the toilette, a light waterproof, and a 
stout umbrella will generally be found a sufficient equipment. Strong 
and well-tried boots are essential to comfort. Heavy and complicated 
knapsacks should be avoided; a light pouch or game-bag is far less irksome, 
and its position may be shifted at pleasure. A more extensive reserve 
of clothing should not exceed the limits of a small portmanteau, which 
can be easily wielded, and may be forwarded from town to town by rail. 

The following itineraries group the towns of the various districts 
in the order in which they may be visited most expeditiously and 
conveniently. The most important points are indicated by asterisks 
and the names within brackets' show the excursions to be made 
from the town immediately preceding in the list. The names of 
places important only as railway-junctions are printed in italics. The 
maps at the beginning and end of the Handbook will enable trav- 
ellers to modify these itineraries or to combine them with each other. 

North-Eastern France (10-15 days). •Calais, •Boulogne, Etaples, Berck, 
Le Crotoy» Abbeville, •Amiens, •Beauvais, Paris, Compifegne (^Pierrefonds), 
Noyon, •St. Quentin, Butigny, Cambrai, •Valenciennes (Denain, Anzin), 
•Douai, •Arras, •Lille, St. Omer, Hazelrouck, Cassel, Bergues, •Dunkirk 
(Malo-les-Bains), Calais. 

Normandy (15-20 days). •Dieppe (Eu, Le Tr^port), •Eouen. *I'e Ha.vre 

Argentan, Laigle, Verneuil, Dreux, i 
or viu •Mantes and Vernon, to Bouen. 

Digitized by 



Brittany and the Banks of the Loire (20-30 days). *St. Malu (Paramd, 
Cancale, Dinard, *Mont St. Michel), 'Dinan (St. Cast. *Cap Fr^hel), La 
Brohini^re^ ''Rennes, St. Brieuc (Val Andr^, Erquy, Binic, St. Quay), Quin- 
gamp, Paimpol, *Tr^gaier, Lannion (^Environs), Ptouaret^ •Morlaix (•St. Pol- 
de-Ldon, Boscoff, °Haelgoat, Garhaix), Landernean (Lesneven, Ploun^ar- 
Trez), *firest (Lannilis, Le Conquet, ^Brest Boads, Morgat), Landemeaa, 
Ghateaulin, •Quimper (Douamenez, Aadierne, *Pointe du Baz, Pont-rAbb<5, 
•Penmarc'h), Rosporden^ Ck>ncameau, Jiotporden^ Quimperl^ (Pont-Aren), 
Lorient, Hennebont, *AQray (St. Anne-d'Auray, Pontivy, ^CSamac, Qaiberon, 
'^Belle-Ile), ^'Vannes (Golfe du Morbihan), QfUitembtrt^ Ploermel (^Josselin), 
Questemhert^ Bedon, Savenay^ St. Xazaire (Le Pouliguen, Gue'rande, Le 
Croisic), Savenaff, •Nantes, Ancenis, •Angers, Saumur, Port BouM, *Chinoii, 
•Azay-le-Bideau, •Tours C^Loches, "Chenonceaux), *Amboi8e CCheaon- 
ceaux)^ •Chaumont-sur-Loire, "Blois (Beauregard, Cheverny, *Chninbord), 
•Vendome, Ghateaudun, Patay^ •Orleans, Etampes, Paris. Thence via Ram- 
bouillet, •Chartres, "Le Mans, Laval (Mayenne), * vitrd, Fougeres, Pontvrson 
(•Mont St. Michel), and Del to St. Male. 

Champagne, Ardennes, and Vosgei (20-30 days). Paris, Meaux, La 
Fertd-Milon, Villers-Cotteret'', ~Soissons, Gompifegne ("Pierrefonds), Noyon, 
^St. Queniin, Tergnitr^ 'Laon C*CJoucy-le-Chateau), Hirson^ Mdzi^res-Charle- 
ville (* Valley of the Mease, Givet, Sedan), •Bheims, Epernay, ^Chalona- 
sur-Marne, Bar-le-Due, LirouwillOy St. Mihiel, Verdun, Conjtans-Jamy^ Pont- 
a-Mousson, •Nancy (•Toul), Luneville, "St. Di^, iMveline, *G^rardmcr 
(°Longemer, the "Schlucht, the •Hohneck), Bemiremcnt (Cornlmont, 'Bus- 
sang, *Wel9che Belchen), •Epinal, AUleviiUrs (•Plombieres, •Val dUjol), 
Luxeuil, "Belfort, Vesoul, Vitrey^ Bourbonne-les-Bains, VUrey^ *Langres, 
Chaumont, 'Troyes, Longueville^ •P/ovins, LongvevilUy Paris. 

Burgundy and Franche-Oomte (20-30 days). Paris, Melun, *Fontaine- 
bleau, 'Sens, Joigny, •Auxerre, 'Vdzelay, Avollon, Semur, Les Laume*^ 
•Dijon (•Beaune), Auxonne, "Dole, ♦Besan^on, mapital-du-Gros-BoitCLoda)^ 
Pontarlier, •Mouthe, *Morez, "Champagnole, Andelot^ Mouchard (•Salins), 
Poligny, Lons-le-Saunier, *St. Glaude, 1he*Faucille,6ex, BelUgarde, "Bourg, 
Macon, Tournufl, •Gh&lon-sur-Saone, Chelny, Autun, Etttng^ Le Creusnt, 
St. Oengoux^ Cluny, Paray-le-Monial, 'Moulina, •Nevers, Saineair.e, •Buurgcs, 
Gosne, Gien, St. Benoit-sur-Loire, ""Orltfans, Montargis, Paris. 

Syndicats d'Initiative. Tiavellers who propose to pay more 
than a passiT\g visit to any of the chief excursioo-centies will find 
the so-called Syndicats d^Initiative of great use. These are local as- 
sociations, which have sprung up during the last ten years or so, 
for the purpose of collecting and distributing gratuitously all in- 
formation of interest to tourists with regard to local resources and 
attractions, curiosities and monuments, means of communication,, . 
etc. Many of them publish useful little local guides (often gratis) 
and some of them organize excursions at fixed prices. The addresses 
of the principal Syndicats will be found in the Handbook. 

IV. Railway s. Public Conveyances. 

Bailways. The districts treated in this Handbook are served 
mainly by the lines of the Nord, Est^ PariS'Lyon-Miditerranie^ aiid 
OrUans railways, and by the Chemin de Ftr de i' Quest (a state-line 
since 1909) and the other Government lines (Riseau de I'Etat). 

The fares per English mile are approximately: 1st cL 18 c, 
2nd cL 12 c, 3rd cl. 8 c, to which a tax of 10 c. on each ticket 
costing more than 10 fr. is added. The prices given in oui roate- 
headings include this tax. The mail trains (Hrains rapides') generally 


convey flrst-class passengers only, and the express trains (Hrains 
express') first-class and second-class only. The first-class carriages 
are good, bat the second-class are often poor and the third- 
class on the Nord and Oaest lines are not always^ furnished with 
cushioDed seats. Generally speaking, however, the rolling-stock has 
been considerably improved within recent years; and corridor- 
coaches (wagons d, couloir) are found in most of the principal train;?. 
In winter all the carriages are heated. The trains are generally pro- 
yided with smoking carriages, and in the others smoking is allowed 
unless any one of the passengers objects. Ladies' compartments are 
also provided. The trains invariably pass each other on the left, so 
that the traveller can always tell which side of a station his train 
starts from. The speed of Uie express-trains is about 36-45 M. per 
hour, but that of the ordinary trains is very much less. — Inter- 
preters are found at most of the large stations. -^ Excursion Trains 
(Hrains de plaisir*) should as a rule be avoided, as their cheapness 
is more than counterbalanced by their discomfort. 

Sleeping Carriaget ( Wagone-Ute) are provided on all the main lines, and 
the ^Gomp^nie Internationale des Wagons-Lits" has an offloe at Paris (Boal. 
des Capncines 5). Dining Care ( Wagone-Reetaurante) are also run in the chief 
day expresses (d^j. 2V4-4, D. 87s-6 fr.). Wine is extra (half-a-bottie, i fr.). 

FiUoms and Coverlet* may he hired at the chief stations (1 fr.). 

The following are some of the expressions with which the railway 
traveller in France should be familiar: Bail way-sta( ion, la gate (also 
Vtmhareadh^\ booking-office, U gniehtt or lureau; first, second, or third 
class ticket, tm billet de premihrey de seconde, de troitihme cla»&e; to take a 
ticket, prendre un HlUt; to register the luggage, /atVtf enregUtrer lea bagage*; 
luggage-ticket, bulletin de bagage; waiting-room, salle d'attentef refreshment 
room, le buffet (third-class refreshment-room, la bU9ette)\ platform, leperron^ 
le trottoir; railway-carriaee, le wagon; compartment, le eompartiment^ le coupi; 
smoking compartment, futneurs; ladies* compartment, dames seulesg guard, 
eonducteur; porter, /a«fotfr; to enter the carriage^ monter en wagon; take your 
seats! en wiiure! alight, descendre; to change carriages, changer devoiture; 
express train to Calais, U train exprese pour Calais^ Vexpresi d^ Calais, 

TiMB Tables. The most trustworthy information as to the de- 
parture of trains is contained in the Indieateur Chain des Chemins 
de Fer, published weekly and sold at all the stations (1 fr. 25 c). 
There are also separate and less bulky time-tables CLivrets Chaix^) 
for the different lines: du Nord, de I'Est, de I'Ouest, etc. (50 c). 

Railway-time is always that of Paris, but the clocks in the in- 
terior of the stations, by which the trains start, are purposely kept 
five minutes slow. Belgian (Greenwich or West Europe) railway 
time is 4min. behind, and 'MldEurope' time (for Germany, Switzer- 
land, and Italy) 55 min. in advance of French railway-time. 

Tickets. Travellers must purchase their tickets before entering 
the waiting-rooms, and they are not generally admitted to the plat- 
form until the train is ready to receive them. No one is admitted 
to the platform to take leave of friends without a platform-ticket 
( 10 c), which may usually be obtained from the ticket-checker. 
Tickets for intermediate stations are usually collected at the 'sor- 
tie'; those for termini, before the station is entered. ^ t 

Baedeker's Nortbern France. 5(h Edit. Digitized byV^OOglC 

xviii IV. RAILWAYS. 

Return Tickets (BilleU d' alter el retour) are issaed by all the 
railway-companies at a reduction of 20-26 per cent or even more. 
The length of time for which these tickets are available varies with 
the distance and with the company by which they are issued; those 
issaed on Sat and on the eves of great festivals are available for 
three days or for four days if Mon. be a festival. The recognized 
festivals are New Year's Day, Easter Monday, Ascension Day, "Whit- 
Monday, the *Fete Nationale' (July 14th), the Assumption (Aug. 
15th), All Saints' Day (Nov. 1st), and Christmas Day. — Special 
return-tickets, valid for longer periods, are issaed for the various 
watering-plaoes and summer and winter-resorts (billets de bains de 
mer and de stations thermales). These mast be applied for a day 
or two in advance; see the Indicateur (p. xvii). 

GiROULAB Tour Tickets (^Billets de Voyages Cireulaires^ ) are of 
two kinds, viz. *h itinSraires fixes' (routes arranged by the railway 
company), and ^h itinSraires facultatifs' (routes arranged to suit 
individual travellers). The former are convenient as they are issued 
at reduced fares, with liberal arrangements as to breaking the jour- 
ney, but they are not usually granted to third-class passengers. The 
latter, though issued for all three classes, are subject to a variety 
of conditions that practically cancel the ostensible advantages. — 
The so-called Rundreise Tickets ( Voyages intemaiionaux h itiniraires 
facultatifs), with routes arranged to meet the wishes of individual 
travellers, are, however, much more convenient. These tickets 
(books of coupons) are not issued for distances under 600 kil. 
(373 M.) reckoned from the first Continental station reached ttom 
England (c. p. Calais, Dieppe), and they must include a section 
(however short) on some foreign railway beyond France. (The rail- 
ways of Great Britain, Spain, Portugal, Russia, and Greece are not 
included in this international arrangement.) Tickets of this kind 
for distances op to 2000 kil. are valid for 45 days, for 2001-3000 kil. 
for 60 days, beyond that distance for 90 days. They allow of no 
free luggage, bat permit the journey to be broken without formality 
at any of the stations named in them. If the traveller alight at any 
other station he must at once apply to the Chef de gate for recog- 
nition of the break of journey. Some express-trains are not avail- 
able for short distances by the holders of these tickets. — Tickets 
of all the above-mentioned kinds and full information may be ob- 
tained in London (at the principal stations of the southern rail- 
ways and at the ordinary tourist-agencies) as well as in the chief 
towns of France. Consult also the Indicateur (p. xvii). 

LuoGAOE. Travellers within France are allowed 30 kilogrammes 
(66 Engl, lbs.) of luggage free of charge; those who are bound for 
foreign countries are allowed 25 kilogr. only (55 lbs.) ; 10 c. is char- 
ged for booking. On the Belgian, Swiss, and Alsatian lines all lug- 
gage in the van must be paid for. In all cases the heavier luggage 
must be booked, and a ticket procured for it; this being done, the 

V. CYCLING. xix 

traveller need not enquire after bis 'impedimenta' until he arrives 
and presents his ticket at his final destination (where they will be 
kept in safe custody, several days usually gratis). Where, however, 
a frontier has to be crossed, the traveller should see his luggage 
cleared at the custom-house in person. At most of the railway- 
stations there is a consigne, or left-luggage office, where a charge of 
10 c. per day is made for one or two packages, and 6 c. per day for 
each additional article. Where there is no eonsigne the employes 
will generally take care of luggage for a trifling fee. It is usual to 
give the railway-porters (facteurs) a few sous for their services. 

The enormous weight of the Inrge trunks used by some travellers not 
infrequently causes serious injury to the porters who have to handle them. 
Heavy articles should therefore always be placed in the smaller packages. 

There are no Refkbshment Rooms (Buffets) except at the principal 
stations-, and as the viands are generolly indiiElferent , the charges high, 
and the stoppages brief, the traveller is advised to provide himself be- 
forehand with the necessary sustenance and consume it at his leisure in 
the railway-carriage. Baskets containing a cold luncheon are sold at some 
of the buffets for 3-i fr. 

Public Conveyasees. The old French DUigenees^ with their 
conp6, rumble, and inside places at varying prices, have now been 
almost superseded by Omnibuses^ equally comfortless vehicles, in 
which, however, there is no distinction of fares. Some of the chief 
tourist routes, however, are now served by Motor Omnibuses (Auto- 
bus), superior in equipment as well as in speed. Vehicles which 
run in connection with the railways have a fixed tariff, but in other 
cases the fare should be ascertained beforehand. — Hotel Omni- 
buses^ see p. xxl. 

Hired Carriages (VoitwesdeLouage) may be obtained at all the 
principal resorts of tourists at charges varying from 12 to 20 fr. per 
day for a single-horse vehicle and from 25 to 30 fr. for a carriage- 
and-pair, with a pourboire to the driver of 2-5 fr. The hirers almost 
invariably demand more at first than they will ultimately accept, 
and a distinct understanding should always be come to beforehand. 
A day's journey is reckoned at about 30 if., with a rest of 2-3 hrs. 
at midday. — Saddle Horses^ Asses, and Mules may also be hired. 

V. Cycling and Motoring. 
Cycling is a popular amusement in France, and the cyclist's 
wants are everywhere fairly well provided for. Cyclists entering 
France with their machines must obtain from the customs-agent a 
cycle-permit (60 c), which must be carried on the person and pro- 
duced whenever required. If, however, the cyclist remains more than 
three consecutive months in France, he must apply for an official 
metal badge, to be fixed on the steering-pcst. These badges are 
delivered free on payment of the necessary fees and the annual tax 
(3 fr.). Each cycle must have a badge for each seat, aud must, 
moreover, be furnished with a lamp and a bell or horn. Motor-cyiles 
pay double tax. 

Digitized by 



Cyclists in France will find it advantageous to join the Touring 
Club de France (65 Avenue de la Grande- Arm^e, Paris), the annual 
subscription to which is 6 fr. (5«.), including a copy of the monthly 
Gazette. The cluh publishes an Annuaire (2 fr.) , with a list of 
cyclists' hotels, repairers, representatives, etc. Members of the Brit> 
ish Cyclists' Touring Club (47 Victoria St., London, S.W.) also enjoy 
special privileges. Maps, see p. xxxv. 

Motoring enjoys an enormous vogue in Fraiice, and supplies of 
petrol and facilities for repairs are to be found in. practically every 
village. On entering the i country the duty on motor-cars must be 
deposited (150 fr. per 100 kg. for cars weighing not more than 
125 kg. ; 60 fr. per 100 kg. for cars above that weight) ; but the amount 
paid is refunded without reduction when the country is quitted. A 
permit of circulation and a registered number for the car as well as 
a driver s certificate must be obtained at the nearest prefecture. 

Cyclists and motorists should remember that the rule of the road 
in France is the reverse of that in England: keep to the right on 
meeting, to the left in overtaking another vehicle. 

VI. Hotels, Bestaurants, and Caf^s. 

Hotels. Hotels of the highest class, fitted up with every modern 
convenience, are found only in the larger towns and in the more 
fashionable watering-places, where the influx of visitors is great. In 
other places the inns generally retain their primitive provincial 
characteristics. The beds, however, are generally clean, and the 
cuisine tolerable. It is therefore advisable to frequent none but the 
leading hotels in places off the beaten track of tourists, and to avoid 
being misled by the appellation of *Grand-H6ter, which is often 
applied to the most ordinary inns. 

The charges of provincial hotels are usually somewhat lower than 
at Paris, but at many of the largest modern establishments the tariff 
is drawn up on quite a Parisian scale. It is prudent, though not 
absolutely necessary, to enquire the charges in advance. The follow- 
ing are the average charges : room 2-5 fr. ; breakfast or 'premier 
dejeuner', consisting of 'caf^ au lait', with bread and butter, 
1-1 Y2 fr-J luncheon or *second de'jeuner', taten about noon, 2-4 fr.; 
dinner, usually about 7 p.m., 2V2-5 fr. An extra charge of V2-I fr- 
is not uncommonly made for lunch or dinner when served at 
separate tables. Wine, beer, or cider (the ordinary beverage of Nor- 
mandy and Brittany) is generally included in the charge for dinner, 
except in some of the larger hotels, especially in the fashionable 
watering-places. Beer is not often met with at table d'h6te except 
in the second-class hotels of such towns as Boulogne and Le Havre. 
The second dejeuner will sometimes be regarded as superfluous by 
English and American travellers, especially as it occupies a con- 
siderable time during the best part of the day. A slight luncheon 
at a caftf, which may be had at any hour, will be .found far more 


conTenient and expeditions. Attendance on the table d'hote is not 
compulsory, but the charge for rooms is often raised if meals are 
not taken in the house, and the visitor will scarcely obtain so good 
a dinner in a restaurant for the same price. In many hotels yisitors 
are received *en pension' at a charge of 6-7 fr. per day and upwards 
(premier dejeuner sometimes extra). The usual fee for attendance 
at hotels is 1 fr. per day, if no charge is made in the bill; if ser- 
vice is charged, 50 c. a day in addition is generally expected. 

When the traveller remains for a week or more at a hotel, it is 
advisable to pay, or at least call for the account, every two or three 
dnys, in order that erroneous insertions may be at once detected. 
Verbal reckonings are objectionable, except in some of the more 
remote and primitive districts where bills are never written. A 
waiter's mental Arithmetic is faulty, and the faults are seldom in 
favour of the traveller. A habit too often prevails of presenting the 
bill at the last moment, when mistakes or wilful impositions cannot 
easily be detected or rectified. Those who intend starting early in the 
morning should therefore ask for their bills on the previous evening. 

English travellers often impose considerable trouble by ordering 
things almost unknown in French usage ; and if ignorance of the 
language be added to want of conformity to the customs, misunder- 
standings and disputes are apt to ensue. The reader is therefore 
recommended to endeavour to adapt his requirements to the habits 
of the country, and to acquire if possible such a moderate proficiency 
in the language as to render himself intelligible to the servants. 

Artielea of Value should never be kept in the drawers or cup- 
boards at hotels. The traveller's own trunk is probably safer ; but it 
is better to entrust them to the landlord, from whom a receipt 
should be required, or to send them to a banker. Doors should be 
locked at night 

Travellers who are not fastidious as to their table-companions 
will often find an excellent cuisine, combined with moderate charges, 
at the hotels frequented by commercial travellers (voyageurs de com" 
merce, commis-voyageurs). 

Many hotels send Omnibusea to meet the trains, for the use of 
which 72"^ ''• ^^ charged In the bilL Before taking their seats in 
one of these, travellers who are not encumbered with luggage should 
ascertain how far off the hotel is, is the possession of &n omnibus 
by no means necessarily implies long distance from the station. He 
should also find out whether the omnibus will start immediately 
without waiting for another train. 

Bestaurantg. Except in the largest towns, there are few pro- 
vincial restaurants in France worthy of recommendation to tourists. 
This, however, is of little importance, as the travejler may always 
join the table d'h6te meals at hotels, even though not staying in the 
house. He may also dine d. la carte, though not so advantageously, 
in which case he should note the prices beforehand. The refresh- 
Digitized by LriOOQlC 

xxii Vlll. POST OFFICE. 

ment-rooms at railway-stations should be avoided if possible (comp. 
p. xix) ; there is often a restaurant or a small hotel adjoining the 
station where a better and cheaper meal may be obtained. 

Cai^f. The Cafi is as characteristic a feature of French pro- 
vincial as of Parisian life and resembles its metropolitan prototype 
in most respects. It is a favourite resort in the evening, when people 
frequent the caf^ to meet their friends, read tlie newspapers, or play 
at cards or billiards. Ladies may visit the better-class caf^s without 
dread, at least during the day. The refreshments, consisting of coffee, 
tea, beer, cognac, liqueurs, cooling drinks of various kinds (sorbet^ 
orgeat, sir op dt groseille or de framboise, etc.), and ices, are gen- 
erally good of their kind, and the prices are reasonable. 

Vn. Fublie BnildixigB and Collections. 

The Chvbches, especially the more important, are generally open 
the whole day, though some are closed from noon till 2 p.m. Visitors 
may enter freely and inspect the works of art, except during the 
performance of divine service. The attendance of the sacristan or 
^Suissie' is seldom necessary; the usual gratuity is Ys ^* ^^ is 
perhaps not altogether superfluous to remind visitors that they 
should move about in churches as noiselessly as possible to avoid 
disturbing those engaged in private devotion, and that they should 
keep aloof from altars where the clergy are officiating. Other inter- 
esting buildings, such as palaces, chateaux, and castles often belong 
to the municipalities and are open to the public with little or no 
formality. Foreigners will seldom find any difficulty in obtaining 
access to private houses of historic or artistic interest or to the parks 
attached to the mansions of the noblesse. 

Most of the larger provincial towns of France contain a Musbe, 
generally comprising a picture-gallery and collections of Various 
kinds. These are generally open to the public on Sun., and often 
on Thurs. also, from 10 or 12 to 4; but strafigers are readily admitted 
on other days also for a small pourboire. 

ym. Post and Telegraph Offtees. 
Post Office. Letters (whether ^poste restante' or to the traveller's 
hotel) should be addressed very distinctly, and the name of the 
department should be added after that of the town. The offices are 
usually open from 7 a.m. in summer, and 8 a.m. in winter, to 9 p.m. 
Poste Restante letters may be addressed to any of the provincial 
offices. In applying for letters, the written or printed name, and in 
the case of registered letters, the passport of the addressee should 
always be presented. It is, however, preferable to desire letters to 
be addressed to the hotel or boarding-house where the visitor intends 
residing. Letter-boxes (Bottes aux Lettres) are to be found also at 
the railway-stations and at many public buildings, and stamps 
(timbres'poste) may be purchased in all tobacconists' shops. An ex- 



tract froiB^ the postal tariff is given below; moie extensive details 
will be found in the Almanack des Postes et TiUgraphts, 

Ordinary Letters witlun France, including Corsica and Algeria, 10 c. 
per 15 grammes prepaid; for eoantries of the Postal Union 26 c. for 
16 grammes and 15 c. for each addit. 15 grammes. (The silver franc and 
the bronze sou each weigh 5 grammes; 15 grammes, or three of the^e 
coins, are equal to Vs o^* English.) — RegUtered Letters (Mires r^ommctndies) 
25 c. extra. 

Post Cards 10 c. each, with card for reply attached 20 c. 

Post Office Orders (mandats de poste) are issued for most countries in 
the Postal Union at a charge of 25 c. for every 25 fr. or fraction of 25 fr.^ 
the maximum sum for which an order is obtainable being 500 fr. ; for 
Great Britain, 20 c. per 10 fr., maximum 252 fr. 

Printed Papers (imprimis sous bande) : 5 c. per 100 grammes \ to foreign 
countries 5 e. per 50 gr. The wrapper must be easily removable, and must 
not cover more than one-third of the packet. 

Parcels not exceeding 22 lbs. in weight may be forwarded at a moderate 
rate (60 c.-l fr. 25 c.) within France. There is also a parcel-post between 
France and various foreign countries, parcels up to 11 lbs. being conveyed 
at a uniform rate: viz, to Germany, Belgium, Switzerland, 1 fr. 10c. ; 
Spain, Italy, 1 fr. 85 c. ; Great Britain, Austria, Ifetherlands, 1 fr. 60 c. ; etc. 
These parcels must be sealed. All parcels should be handed in at the ridl- 
way-station or at the offices of the parcel-companies, not at the post-of&ces. 

Telegrams. The following are the rates per word : for France, 
Algeria, and Tunis 5 c. (minimum charge 50 c.) ; Luxembourg, 
Switzerland, and Belgium 1272 c; Germany 15 c.; Netherlands 
16 c; Great Britain, Austria-Hungary, Italy, Spain, and Portugal 
20 c.; Denmark 24Y2C.; Sweden 28 c.; Roumania, Servia, etc. 
28 Vs c. ; Norway 36 c; Russia in Europe 40 c; Greece 53Vr67 c; 
Turkey 53 c.; New York 1 fr. 25 c; Chicago 1 fr. 55 c. 

Telephonic Communication between the principal towns , etc» ; 
enquire at the telegraph-offices. 

IX. Weights and Measures. 
(In use since 1799.) 
Millier s 1000 kilogrammes = 19 cwt. 2 qrs. 22 lbs. 6 oz. 
Kilogramme, unit of weight, = 2Y5 lbs. avoirdupois s= 

2Vio lbs. troy. 
Quintal =3 10 myriagrammes = 100 kilogrammes s= 220 lbs. 
Hectogramme (Yio kilogramme) = 10 decagrammes = 100 gr. 
= 1000 decigrammes. (100 grammes = 3Y5 oz. ; 15 gr. 
= 1/2 oz. ; 10 gr. = 1/3 oz- ; ^^h gr. = Vi oz.) 

Myriam^tre = 10,000 metres e= 6V5 Engl, miles. 

Kilometre = 1000 metres = 5 furlongs s=3 about 5/g Engl. mile. 

Hectometre &= 10 decametres «= 100 metres. 

Mdtre, the unit of length, the ten-millionth part of the sphe- 
rical distance from the equator 'to the pole := 3,0784 Paris 
feet = 3,281 Engl, feet = 1 yd. 31/3 in. 

pecim^tre (Viq metre) = 10 centimetres ;;= 100 millimetres. 

Digitized by 



Hectare (square hectomHre) =s 100 ares = 10,000 sq. metres 

= 272 acres. 
Are (square de'camMre) ss 100 sq. mMres. 
Declare = 7io are «= 10 sq. metres. 
Centiare = Vjoo are = 1 sq. mfetre. 

Hectolitre s= i/,q cubic mMre = 100 litres «= 22 gallons. 
Decalitre = Vioo cubic mfitre = 10 litres a=s 2^/5 gals. 
Litre, unit of capacity, = I3/4 pint; 8 litres b= 7 quarts. 

The tbermomefer most commonly used in France is the Centi- 
grade; Reaumur's is much less common. Tbe freezing point on both 
of tbese is marked 0", tbe boiling-point of tbe former 100**, of tbe 
latter 80", wbile Fabrenbeit's boiling-point is 212" and bis freezing- 
point 32°. To reduce Centigrade to Fabrenbeit, multiply tbe number 
of degrees above O'' by 1.8 and add 32 (if below 0** subtract from 32). 

X. Historical Sketch. 

KeTOvini^axu. Tbe bistory of France, properly so called, be- 
gins at tbe end of tbe fiftb century of tbe Christian era , when 
Clovis I. (481-511), son of Childeric, king of tbe Ripuarian Franks 
of Tournai, expelled tbe Romans from Northern Gaul (ca. 496), em- 
braced Christianity, and united all tbe Franks under bis sway. Tbe 
Merovingian Dynasty, which be founded and which took its name 
from Meroveus, tbe father of Cbilderic, rapidly degenerated. Tbe 
Frahklsh state was several times divided among different princes 
of tbe line, and this gave rise to long civil wars and finally to a 
deadly rivalry between Austrasia, the kingdom of the E. Frank*, 
and Neustriaj that of tbe W. Fr inks. The family of Pepin, beads of 
the ^Leudes' or great vassals' of Austrasia and hereditary ^Mayors of 
tbe Palace', first of Austrasia, and afterwards also of Neustria and 
Burgundy, took advantage of this state of affairs to seize for them- 
selves tbe supreme power, after Charles Martel bad saved tbe country 
from the Saracenic invasion by tbe great victory of Poitiers (732). 

Carlo ving^ans. The first king of this dynasty was Pepin the 
Short (le Bref)^ who assumed the crown in 752. His son — 

Chaelemagne (768-814), from whom tbe dynasty is named, 
by bis able administration and by bis victories over tbe Arabs, 
Lombards, Saxons, Avars, etc., founded a vast empire, which, bow- 
ever, lasted but little longer than that of Clovis. After tbe death of 
his son — 

Louis I. {le Dibonnairef 814-840), his realms were divided by 
tbe Treaty of Verdun (843) between Louis the German, who be- 
came King of Germany; Lothaire, who got Italy, Burgundy, and 
Lotharingia or Lorraine ; and — 

Charles II. the Bald {le Chauoe; 840-877), who ruled over 
France. He and bis three successors, Louis II. the Stammerer {le 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 


Bhgue; 877-879), Louis IH. (879-882), andCABLoiLLN (879-884), 
proved themselves weak and incapable lulers, able neither to protect 
their kingdom from the inroads of the Normans nor theii regal power 
from encroachments at the hands of the feudal nobles. 

Charles IIL the Fat (le Qros; 884-887), son of Louis the 
German and himself Emperor of Germany, succeeded Carloman in 
884, but left the care of defending Paris against the Normans to 
Count Obo or Eudes, Duke of France and Count of Paris, in whose 
favour he was deposed in 887. Odo was the ancestor of the Capetian 
family (see below). IV. {U Simple i 898-923), son of Louis le B^gue, suc- 
ceeded Eudes and acquiesced in the establishment of the duchy of 
Normandy. He also was overthrown by the nobles, who put in his 
place, first, Robebt (922-923), brother of Eudes, and then Raoul 
(923-936), Robert's son-in-law. Three other Carlovingians then 
bore the title of King; Louis IV. (d'Outremet; 936-945), son oi 
Charles the Simple; Lothaibb (964-986); and Louis V. {It Fai- 
neant; 986-987); but these monarchs possessed less real power than 
their great subjects Hugh the Oreat^ son of Robert, and Hugh Capet, 

Capetians. Hugh or Hugueb Capet, grand-nephew of Count 
Eudes, was declared king of France in 987 and founded the Third 
or Capetian Dynasty , which furnished France for eight centuries 
with an unbroken line of monarchs, under whom the country ad- 
vanced to greatness and independence. 

Robebt U. (U Pieux), 996. 

Henbi I, 1031. 

Phujp I., 1060. During the reigns of these three monarchs 
France suffers from feudal dissensions and wars with the Dukes of 
Normandy. William, Duke of Normandy, conquers England, 1066. 
Fvrtt Cnuade under Godfrey de Bouillon, 1096. 

Louis YL (le Oroa; 1108-37) encourages the growth of the 
Communes as a check upon the power of the nobles. Suger, abbot 
of St. Denis, the king's minister. 

Louis Vn. {le Jeune; 1137-80) foolishly leaves his kingdom to 
take part in the Second Crusade (1147), and is further guilty of the 
great political blunder of divorcing Eleanor of Guienne and Poitou, 
who marries Henry Plantagenet, afterwards Henry n. of England, 
taking with her as her dowry extensive possessions in France. 

Philip II. (Auguste; 1180-1223) undertakes the Third Crusade, 
in company with Richard Coeur-de-Lion, 1189. On his return he at- 
tacks the English possessions in France, occupies Normandy, Maine, 
and Poitou, and defeats the English, Flemish, and German troops 
at Bouvines in 1214. 

Louis VIII. (le Lion; 1223-26) makes fresh conquests in the 
S. of France. 

Louis IX. (St. Louis; 1226-70) engages in the Seventh and 
Eighth Crusades J the former in Egypt, where he loses the battle of 

Digitized by 



Mansourah and is taken prisoner (1249), the latter against Tunis 
where he dies (1270). 

Philip III. (le Hardi; 1270-86) acquires Provence by inherit- 

Phiup IV. (le Bel; 1285-1314) continues the struggle with 
England. Defeat of Cowirai (1302). Victory of Mons-en-PueOe 
(1304) and conquest of Flanders. Financial embarrassments, exac- 
tions, debased coinage, disputes with Boniface VIII,, suppression 
of the order of Knights Templar, and removal of the papal seat to 
Avignon. The ParUment, or court of justice, becomes the central 
machine of government, and the Pouvoir Public, or Legal and Con- 
stitutional Power, grows at the expense of the feudal and ecclesi- 
Astical powers. The Etati-GSnSraux, or Estates General^ are con- 
voked for the first time. 

Louis X. {le Hutin or the Quarrelsome; 1314-16). 

Philip V. (le Long; 1316-22) and — 

Chaeles IV. (le Bel; 1322-28) are able administrators, but do 
not show so firm a front towards the nobles as Philip IV. With 
Charles IV. the direct line of the Capetians ends, and the crown 
passes to his cousin, Philip of Valois. 

Home of Yalois. Philip VI. (1328-50) defeats the Flemings 
at Cassel (13281 The ^Ouerre de Cent An8\ or Hundred Years' War 
with England (1337-1463), begins, in consequence of the rival pre- 
tensions arising tiom. the second marriage of Eleanor of Guienne 
(see p.xxv). Battle of Cricy (1346). Edward HI. of England be- 
comes master of Calais. 

John n. (U Bon; 1350-64) is defeated and taken prisoner by 
theEngUsh hi Poitiers in 1356. Treaty of BrStigny (1360), con- 
firming the loss of the country to the S. of the Loire. 

Charles V. (le Sage; 1364-80). Battle of Cocherel (1364). 
The English expelled by Bertrand Du Ouesclin, 

Ohablbs VI. (1380-1422) becomes insane in 1392. Defeat of 
the Flemings under Artevelde at Rosbeck (1382). War with the 
Armagnacs and Burgundians. The French under the Constable 
d^Albret defeated by Henry V. of England at Agincourt or Azincourt 
(1415). Paris occupied by the English, 1421. 

Chables VU. (1422-61). The siege of Orleans raised by Joan 
of Arc (1429). Coronation at Rheims. Joan burned at Rouen as a 
witch (1431). The English expelled irom the whole of France ex- 
cept Calais. 

Louis XI. (1461-83) breaks up the Ligue du Bien Public, which 
his hasty and sweeping reforms bad called into existence. He sub- 
sequently displays greater astuteness, and considers no means un- 
fair that aid him to deal a mortal blow at the feudal system. He 
effects great things in administrative reform and territorial unity, and 
puts France in a condition to aspire to foreign conquests. His chief 
acquisitions are Burgundy, Francbe-Comt^, Artois, and Provence. 

Digitized by 



Charges VIII. (1483-98) marries Anne of Brittany, -whose duchy 
is thereby united with the French crown, and makes a temporary 
conquest of Naples (1496), on which he has hereditary claims. 

Louis XII. (le Phre du Peuple; 1498-1515) , first king of the 
younger branch of the House of Valois, conqueror of Milan and (in 
alliance with the Spaniards) of Naples. Having quarrelled with his 
Spanish allies, he is defeated by them on the Garigliano in 1503, 
on which occasion Bayard is present. The League of Cambrai is 
formed for the purpose of expelling the Venetians from the main- 
land of Italy. The Venetians defeated d^t Agnadello (ib09)] but 
they succeed in destroying the League, and in forming the Llgue 
Sainte for the purpose of expelling the French from Italy. They 
defeat the French at Ravenna, 1512. 

Francis I. (1515-47), second-consin and son-in-law of Louis XII., 
defeats the Swiss at Marignano, and recovers the Duchy of Milan 
(1515). Four wars with Charles V. for the possession of Burgundy 
and Milan. Francis defeated and taken prisoner at Pavia (1525). 
Francis encourages art. The absolute power of the throne increases. 

Henbi II (1547-69), husband of Catherine de Midicis, accident- 
ally killed at a tournament. Metz, Toul, and Verdun annexed to 
France (1566). Final expulsion of the English. 

Fbancib n. (1559-60), husband of Mary Stuart of Scotland. 

Chables IX., brother of Francis II. (1560-74). Regency of 
Catherine de Midicis, the king^s mother. Beginning of the Religious 
Wars, Louis de Cond^, Antoine de Navarre, and Admiral CoUgny, 
leaders of the Huguenots; Francois de Guise and Charles de Lor- 
raine command the Roman Catholic army. Massacre of St. Bartho~ 
lomew, 24th August, 1572. 

Henri III (1574-90), brother of his two predecessors, flees from 
Paris, where a rebellion had broken out, by the advice of his mother, 
Catherine de M^dicis (d. 1688); assassinated at St. Cloud by Jac- 
ques Clement, a Dominican friar. 

Honse of Bourboii. — Henri IV (1589-1610), first monarch of 
the House of Bourbon, defeats the Roman Catholic League at Ar- 
ques in 1689, and at Ivry in 1690, becomes a Roman Catholic in 
1693, captures Paris in 1694. Sully, his minister. Religious toler- 
ation granted by the Edict of Nantes (1598). Henri, divorced from 
Margaret of Valois in 1699, marries Marie de M^dicis the following 
year; assassinated by Ravaillac in 1610. 

LoxTis Xin. (1610-43) is at first dependent on his mother Marie 
de M^dicis, the regent ; she is banished to Cologne, where she dies 
in 1642. Richelieu, his minister (d. 1642). English fleet defeated 
at Ri (1627); La Rochelle taken from the Huguenots. France 
takes part in the Thirty Tears' War against Austria. 

LoTJis XIV. (1643-1715) succeeds to the throne at the age of 
five, under the regency of his mother, Anne of Austria. Ministers : 
Mazarin (d. 1661), Louvois (d. 1691), and Colbert (d. 1683). Gen- 

Digitized by 



•rals: Turenne (d. 1676), Cond^ (d. 1686), aild Luxembourg 
(d. 1696). 

War of the Fronde against the court and Mazarin. Cond<^ (Dae 
d^Enghien) defeats the Spaniards at Bocroy in 1643, and at Lens in 
Holland in 1646. Tnrenne defeats the Bavarians at Freiburg and 
at Nordlingen (1644). Submission of the Fronde. Peace of the 
Pyrenees, with Spain (1669). Louis marries Maria Theresa (1660). 

Death of Mazarin (1661). The king governs alone. 

After the death of his father-in-law, Philip lY. of Spain, Louis 
lays claim to the Low Countries. Turenne conquers Hainault and 
part of Flanders (1667) Cond^ occupies the Franehe^Comti, Peace 
of Aix-la-Chapelle, in consequence of the Triple Alliance (1668). 

War with Holland, Passage of the Rhine (1672). Occupation of 
the provinces of Utrecht and Guelderland. Victories of Turenne 
over the Imperial army at Sinzheim, Enaiaheimj Muhlhausen (1674), 
and Turkheim (1676). Death of Turenne at Sasshach (1676). 

Admiral Duquesne defeats the Dutch fleet neaT/fifyraciM« (1676). 
Marshal Luxembourg defeats William of Orange at Montcassel 
(1677). Peace of Nymwegen (1678). Strassburg occupied (1681). 
Occupation of Luxembourg, Revocation of the Edict of Nantes 
(1686). Louis marries Mme. de Maintenon (1686). Devastation of 
the Palatinate (1688). Marshal Luxembourg defeats the Imperial 
troops BXFteurus (1690) and William of Orange at Steerikerke (1692) 
and Neerwinden (1693). The French fleet under Admiral Tour- 
ville defeated by the English at La Hogue (1692). Peace oiRyswyk 

Spanish War of Succession (1701). Victory ofVenddme atXus- 
tara (1702), and of Tallard at Speyer (1702). Taking of Landau 
(1702). Victory at Hochstadt (1703); defeat at Hochstddt, or Blen- 
heim (1704), by the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eugfene of 
Savoy. Marshal Villars defeated by Prince Eugfene at Twin (1706), 
and by Marlborough and the Prince at BamillieB (1709), Oudenaerde 
(1708), and Malplaquet (1709). Peaces of Utrecht (1713) and Ba- 
stadt (1714). 

This reign is the golden age of French literature , illuminated 
by such names as Comeille^ Racine, Molihre, Lafoniaine, Boileau, 
Bossuet, F^nelon, Descartes ^ Pascal, La Bruyhre, and Mme. de 

Louis XV. (1716-74). Dufc«o/'0rf<jan« regent till 1723. Louis 
marries Marie Leszczynska of Poland (1726). The king takes no in- 
terest in public affairs and leads a life of the most pronounced 
selfishness and debauchery. The chief power is in the hands of the 
Due de Bourbon (1723-26), Cardinal Fleury (1726-43), the crea- 
tures of La Pompadour (1746-62) and La Dubarry, the king's 
mistresses, and the Due de Choiseul (1768-62). Austrian War 
of Succession (1740-48). Defeat at Dettingen by George II. of 
England (1743). Defeat of the Dutch and English at Fontenoy 

Digitized by 



(17451, of the Austrians under Charles of Lorraine at Rocoux 
(1746J, and of the Allies near Laeffelt (Lawfeld) in 1747. Taking 
of Maastricht and Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle (1748). Naval war 
against England. 

The Seven Years' War (1756-63). Duke of Cumberland defeated 
by Marshal d'Estr^es at Hastenbeck (1757). The French under 
Prince de Soubise defeated the same year by Frederick the Great at 
Rossbachy and in 1758 at Crefeld^ by the Duke of Brunswick. The 
latter defeated by Marshal BrogUe at Bergen (1760). The French 
defeated a^ Minden (1759), etc. Peace of Paris (1763), by which 
France loses Canada and her other possessions in North America. 
Acquisition of Lorraine (1766) and Corsica (1768). 

During this reign the moral ruin of the monarchy is consummat- 
ed and financial ruin becomes unavoidable. Voltaire^ Rousseau, 
and Diderot are the most influential authors and the great leaders 
of the literary revolution. 

Louis XVL (1774-93), married to Marie Antoinette, daughter 
of Francis I. and Maria Theresa. American War of Independence 
against England (1776-83). Exhaustion of the finances of France, 
Vergennes, Turgot, Necker, Calonne, Brienne, and Necker (a second 
time), ministers of finance. 

1789. Revolution. Assembly of the States General at Versail- 
les, 5th May. Their transformation into a Constituent Assembly, 
17th June. Oath of the Jeu de Paume, 20th June. Creation of the 
National Guard, 13th July. Storming of the Bastille, 14th July. The. 
^Femmes de la Halle' at Versailles, 5th Oct. Confiscation of eccle- 
siastical property, 2nd Nov. 

1790. National Fete in the Champ-de-Mars, 14th July. 

1791. The Emigration. The royal family escape from Paris, but 
are intercepted at Varennes, 2^nd June. Oath to observe the Con- 
stitution, 14th Sept. Assemblie Ligislative, 

1792. War with Austria, 20th April. Storming of the Tuiieries, 
10th Aug. The king arrested, 11th Aug. Massacres in Sept. Can- 
nonade of Valmy against the Prussians, 20th Sept. The National 
Convention opened, and royalty abolished, 21st Sept. 

First Bepublio proclaimed, 25th Sept. Custine enters Mayence, 
21st Oct. Battle of Jemappes against the Austrians, 6th Nov. Con- 
quest of Belgium. 

1793. Louis XVL beheaded, 21st Jan. Republican reckoiiing 
of time introduced, 22ud Sept. t. Reign of Terror. The queen 

t The year had 12 months: Vend^miaire (month of the vendage, or 
vintage) from 22nd Sept. to 2i8t Oct., Brumaire (brume, fog) 22nd Oct. to 
20th Nov., and Frimaire (fritnas^ hoar-frost) 2l8t Nov. to ^th Dec, were 
the three autumn-months. — Nivdse {neige, snow) 2l8t Dec. to 19th Jan., 
Pluviose (p/Mi«, rain) 20th Jan. to 18th Feb., and Ventose {vent, wind) 19th 
Feb. to 2(3th March, winter-months. — Germinal (gerrne, germ), 21st March 
to 19th April, Flordal (/leur, flower) 20th April to 19th May, and Prairial 
{prairie, meadow) 20th May to 18th June, spring-months. — Messidor 

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beheaded, 16th Oct. Worship of Reason introduced, 10th Nov. Loss 
of Belgium. 

1794. Jourdan's victory at Fteurus, 16th June. Belgium re- 
conquered. Robespierre's fall and execution, 27th July. 

1796. Conquest of Holland by Pichegru. Bonaparte commander 
of the troops of the Convention against the Royalists under Danican, 
4th Oct. DiBECTOBY established, 27th Oct. 

1796. Bonaparte's successes in Italy (MonUnotte, MUlesimo, 
Lodi^ Milan^ Castiglione^ Baasano, and Arcole). 

1797. Victory at Rivoli, 17th Jan. Taking of Mantua^ 2nd Feb. 
The Austrians commanded by Archduke Charles, at first victorious, 
are defeated by Bonaparte. Peace of Campo FormiOy 17th Oct. 
Change in the Directory on 18th Fructidor (4th Sept.). 

1798. Bonaparte in Egypt. Victory of the Pyramids, 21 st July. 
Defeated by Nelson at the battle of the Nile (Aboukir), 1st Aug. 

1799. Bonaparte invades Syria. Acre defended by Sir Sidney 
Smith. Victory of Aboukir, 26th July. French armies repulsed in 
Germany, Switzerland, and Italy. Bonaparte returns to France. 
Fall of the Directory, 9th Nov. Establishment of the Consulate, 
24th Dec. Bonaparte First Consul. 

1800. Bonaparte's passage of the SU Bernard, 13-1 6th May. 
Victories at Piacenza, Montebello, Marengo , and Hohenlinden. At- 
tempt to assassinate Napoleon at Paris, 23rd Dec. 

1801. Peace of LunivilU with Germany, 9th Feb. Concordat, 
15th July. 

1802. Peace of Amiens with England, 27th March. Bonaparte 
(with Cambac^r^s and Lebrun) elected Consul for life, 2nd Aug. 

1804. First Empire. Napoleon I. proclaimed Emperor by the 
Senate, 18th May; crowned by Pope Pius VIL, 2nd Dec. 

1806. Renewal of war with Austria. Capitulation of Vim, 17th 
Oct. Defeat of Trafalgar, 21st Oct. Battle of Austerlitz, 2nd Dec. 
Peace of Pressburg, 26th Dec. 

1806. Establishment of the Rhenish Confederation, 12th July. 
War with Prussia. Battles of Jena and Auerstadt, 14th Oct. Entry 
into Berlin, 27th Oct. Continental blockade. 

1807. War with Russia and Prussia. Battles of Eylau and 
Friedland. Treaty of Tilsit, 8th July. Occupation of Lisbon, 
30th Nov. 

1808. War in Spain, in order to maintain Joseph Bonaparte on 
the throne. Code NapoUon promulgated. 

1809. Conquest of Saragossa, 21st Feb. Renewed war with 
Austria. Battle of Eckmiihl, 19th-23rd April. Vienna entered, 13th 

(moisson, harvest) 19th June to 18th July, Thermidor (therme^ warmth) 19th 
July to 17th Aug., and Fructidor (fruit, fruit) 18th Aug. to 16th Sept. 
summer-months. — Each month had 30 days, and consisted of 3 decades, 
weeks being abolished. At the close of the year there were 5 jows com- 
pUmentaires, 17th Sept. to 2l8t. — The republican calendar was dfacon- 
tinued by a decree of 9th Sept., 180&, 


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May. Battles of Aapem^ or Essling, and Wagramy 5th and 6th July. 
Peace of Vienna^ 14th Oct. Abolition of the temporal power of 
the pope. 

1810. Marriage of Napoleon with Marie Louise, daughter of 
Francis II. of Austria, 11th March. Napoleon at his zenith. 

1812. Renewed war with Russia. Battles of Smolensk and the 
Moikowa. Afo<coto entered, 15th Sept. Retreat begun, . 19th Oct. 
Passage of the Beresina. — Wellington's victory at Salamanca. 

1813. Battles of Luizen, Bautzen, Grossbeeren, Dresden, Katz- 
bach, Kulm, Leipzig (16-18th Oct.), Hanau, etc. 

1814. Battles of Brienne, La Rothihre, Montmirail, Laon, 
ArciS'Sur-Aube, and Paris, The Allies enter Paris, 31st March. Ab- 
dication of the Emperor, 11th April. His arrival at Elba, 4th May. 

1814. Bestoration. Louis XYIU. proclaimed king, 6th April. 
First Treaty of Paris, 30th May. 

1815. Napoleon's return from Elba; at Cannes on 1st, and at 
Paris on 20th March. Battles of Ligny and Waterloo, 16th and 18th 
June. Second entrance of the Allies into Paris, 7th July. Second 
Peace of Paris, 20th Nov. Napoleon banished to St. Helena, where 
he dies (5th May, 1821). 

1823. Spanish campaign, to aid Ferdinand YIII., under the Due 
d'Angouleme, son of Charles X. 

1824. Charles X. 

1830. Conquest of il^ter«. 

1830. Revolution of July (27th-29th) and fall of the Bourbons. 

Houge of OrUang. Louis Philippe elected King, 7th Aug. 
Continued war in Africa; consolidation of the colony of Algeria. 

1848. Revolution of February (23rd and 24th). 

1848. Second Bepublic. Sanguinary conflicts in Paris, 23rd to 
26th June. Louts Napoleon, son of the former king of Holland, 
elected President, 10th Dec. 

1851. Dissolution of the Assemble ; Coup d'Etat, 2nd Dec. 

1852. Second Empire. Napoleon IIL elected emperor by ple- 
biscite, 2nd Dec. 

1854. War with Russia. Crimean Campaign. — 1855. Capture 
of Sebastopol, 8th Sept. First Universal Exhibition at Paris. — 1856. 
Peace ofPaHs, 30th March. — 1859. War with Austria. Battles of 
Magenta (4th June) and Solferino (24th June). Peace of Villa- 
franca, 11th July. — 1862. Mexican Expedition. — 1867. Dispute 
with Prussia about Luxembourg. Second Universal Exhibition. 

1870. War with Prussia. Declaration of war, 19th July. Battles 
in August: Weissenburg (Ath), Worth (Qth), Spicher en (Qth)^ Bomy, 
RezonviUe, and Gravelotte (14th, 16th, 18th), Beaumont (30th). 
Battle of Sedan, 1st Sept. Surrender of Napoleon III. 

Third Bepublic proclaimed, 4th Sept. Capitulation of Strass- 
burg, 27th Sept., and of Metz, 27th Oct. Battles near Orleans^ 
2nd-4tb Dec. 

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1871. Battle of St. Quenlin, 19th Jan. Capitulation of Paris, 
28th Jan. The Germans enter Paris, 1st March. 

1871. Communist Insurrection, 18th March. Seat of govern- 
ment removed to Versailles, 20th March. Second siege of Paris, 2nd 
April. Peace of Frankfort, 10th May, resigning Alsace and part of 
Lorraine to Germany. Paris occupied by the Government troops, 
26th May.. — The Communist insurrection finally quelled, 28th 
May. — Af. Thiers, who had been chief of the executive since 17th 
Feb., appointed President of the Republic, 31st Aug. 

1873. Death of Napoleon III., 9th Jan. — Marshal MacMahon 
appointed President instead of M. Thiers, 14th May. Final eva- 
cuation of France by the German troops, 16th Sept. 

1875. Republican Constitution finally adjusted, 25th Feb. 

1878. Third Universal Exhibition, at Paris. 

1879. M, Jules Orivy becomes President. The Chambers of the 
Legislature return from Versailles to Paris. 

1881. Expedition to Tunis. — 1882-85. Expeditions to Tongking 
and Madagascar. 

1887. M. 8adi Camot becomes President in place of M. Gr^vy. 
— 1889. Fourth Universal Exhibition, at Paris. 

1894. Assassination of President Camot. M. J. Casimir Pdrier 
elected president. — 1895. Resignation of Casimir P^rier and election 
of M. Filix Faure to the presidency, Jan. 16th and 17th. Expedition 
to Madagascar and annexation of that island. 

1899. Death of President Faure, Feb. 17th. M. Emile Louhet 
elected president. Dreyfus Trial. — 1900. Fifth Universal Exhibition, 
at Paris. — 1905. Separation of Church and State (abrogation of 
the Concordat, pp. xxx, xxxv). 

1906. M. Armand Fallitres elected president. 

XI. Political Geography. 

Population. At the census taken in March, 1906, France, ex- 
cluding her seamen and colonies, contained 39,252,267 inhab., 
including 1,009,414 foreigners, most of whom were Belgians, 
Italians, Spaniards, or Germans. 

Constitution and Government. France has been a Republic 
since Sept. 4th, 1870. The legislative power is vested in a National 
Assembly, consisting of a Chamber of Deputies and a Senate. The 
farmer consists of 580 members elected by universal suffrage for 
four years. The Senate contains 300 members, elected indirectly 
through electoral colleges and holding office for nine years, one- 
third submitting to re-election every three years. The executive 
power is confided by the Assembly to a President of the Republic, 
elected for seven years, and to twelve responsible Ministers. 

Civil Administration. France is divided into 86 Departments, 
or 87, including the small Territory of Bet fort, forming the sole 



fiagment of Alsace left to France after the war of 1870-71. The 
departments are subdivided into SQ2 Arrondissements^ 2911 Cantons^ 
and 36,222 Communes. At the head of each department is a Prtftci 
(Prefet), over each arrondlssement a Sub-Prefect (8ou8-Pr6fet)y and 
over each commune a Mairty each of whom is assisted by a council. 
The cantons have no special civil administration. 

The departments were formed in 1790 to replace the 32 old pro- 
vinces ; their names are taken from their chief rivers or other striking 
natural features. In the following table we follow the order of the 
river-basins, beginning in the N.E. The correspondence between 
the old provinces and the departments formed out of them is only 
approximately exact. 

Ancient Provinces & Corresponding Modern Departments. 












Le Mans 

1 Territory of 




















Flakdre (Flanders) 


Marche ' 











1 Arras 





Haute- Vienne 

1 Limoges 









Haute- Marne 






La Roche-s.-Yon 




La Roehelle 















La Roehelle 















Tam-d'- Garonne 



I Rouen 
















St. L6 












St. Brieuc 











Loire Infir. 


Haute- Loire 

Le Puy 

















liAKUUKKB^s Northern France. 5th Edit. 


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Cap. 1 







Haute- Garonne 

1 Toulouse 


















BoDRGooNE (Burg.) 












Sa6ne-tt- Loire 

\Maine-d:' Loire 

1 Angers 








St. Etienne 





Basses- Alpes 








ComtA de Foix 











1 Grenoble 




CoMT* DB Nice 



1 Valence 



Etat d*Avignon 


Corse (Corsica) 


1 Vauclute 

1 Avignon 



The Eiat d^Avignon, Savoy^ and Nice were not old French provinces, 
the first having been acquired in 1791 and the other two in 1860. 

Armt. The whole of France is divided into twenty Military 
Regions (RSgions de Corps d'Armie)^ each under a general of divi- 
sion, while Paris has a separate military government. 

Military service is compulsory on every Frenchman, not declared 
unfit, between the ages of 20 and 45. The Army is divided into an 
Active Army and a Territorial Army, each with its Reserve. On 
a peace-footing the former consists of 572,000 men and the latter 
of 800,000 men, forming a total of 1,372,000. On a war-footing 
these two armies combined rise to a total of 4,000,000. The total 
sum expended on the French army in 1906 amounted to 28,747,000/. 

Navy. For naval purposes France is divided into five Arrondisse" 
ments MaritimeSj the seats of which are Cherbourg, Brest, Lorient, 
Rochefort, and Toulon. The fleet consists of about 500 war vessels in 
commission. Including 48 ironclads, 66 cruisers, 236 torpedo-boats, 
and 20 transports. These are manned by about 43,000 men and 
2000 officers. In 1906 France expended on her navy 13,000,000/. 

Justice. Each canton contains a Justice de Paix or Justice of 
the Peace; each arrondissement &2'ribunal of the First Instance ; and 
each department a Cour d' Assises, or criminal court. Above these 
are 26 Cours d'Appel, or courts of appeal, in the principal towns, and 
the Cour de Cassation, or supreme court of appeal, at Paris. There 
are also Commercial, Military, and Naval Courts in places where 
such tribunals have been found desirable. 

Education. Education is compulsory on all^ildreu between 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


six and thirteen years. In the budget of 1906 a sum of about 
10,000,000i. was set down for the Minister of Public Instruction, 
nearly two-thirds being allotted to elementary education. 

The Higher Education is entrusted to sixteen VniversitieSj 
which until 1896 were known as ^acad^mies universitaires'. Two 
of these universities (those of Paris and Bordeaux) have the five fac- 
ulties of theology, law, medicine, science, and letters; three (Lyons, 
Nancy, Lille) have four faculties, eight have ^hree, two have two, 
and two (Marseilles and Rouen) have one faculty only. There are 
also ^Facult^s' of Ptotestant Theology at Paris and Montauban, and 
Roman Catholic Institutes at Paris, Angers, Lyons, and Lille. 

Secondary Education is imparted by about 110 Lycees and 228 
Colleges Communaux, including 38 lycees and 23 colleges for girls. 
In addition to these there still exist a large number of private 

There are altogether 80,946 Elementary Schools. 

The educational work of each department is presided over by an 
Inspecieur d' Academic ^ and each arrondissement has an Inspeateur 
d' Instruction Primaire. 

In addition to the above-mentioned schools and colleges are 
numerous Technical and Special Institutions. 

Religion. All religions are equal bylaw. Until 1905 three sects, 
fis. Roman Catholics, Protestants, and Jews, received grants from 
government, but since the abrogation of the Concordat on Dec. 6th 
of that year all churches are independent of the state. The over- 
whelming majority of the inhabitants of France proper, or about 
38 millions out of 39 millions, are reckoned as Roman Catholics. The 
hierarchy of the Roman Catholic church embraces 17 Archbishops 
and 67 Bishops, whose sees are generally (not always) coextensive 
with the departments. The sees of the archbishops are at Aix, Albi, 
Auch, Avignon, Besan^on, Bordeaux, Bourges, Cambrai, Chamb^ry, 
Lyons, Paris, Rheims, Rennes, Rouen, Sens, Toulouse, and Tours. 
The regular clergy number about 66,000. 

The Ptotestants, who number about 600,000, are divided into 
Lutherans and Calvinists , both governed by Presbyterial Councils 
or Consistories, several of which together may form themselves into 
a Synod. The Lutherans possess in addition a General Synod, or 
supreme council. 

The number of Jews in France does not exceed 77,000. 

XII. Maps. 

The best maps of France are the Cartes de VEtat- Major, or 
Ordnance Maps of the War Office. The chief of these, executed in 
1818-78 is issued in 273 sheets in blact and white, on a scale of 
1:80,0C0. It has appeared also in quarter- sheets (1889), sold 
separately at 30 c. each. There is also an enlargement (1 : 60,000), 

xxxvi Xn. MAPS. 

which is considerably clearer (50 c. per quarter-sbeet). — A new 
map (1 : 50,000; in colours) is being issued by the vService Geo- 
graphique, but only a few sheets (Paris and its environs, etc.) have 
appeared, at 1 fr. 60 c. each. There is also a reduction of the first 
mentioned map, on a scale of 1 : 200,000, in five colours, each sheet 
(II/2 fr.) being equivalent to four of the original map. An older 
map (1852-83) in 33 sheets (uncoloured), on a scale of 1 : 320,000, 
is not kept up to date except as regards the railways (2 fr. per sheet 
engraved, 50 c. zincographed). 

The Ministry of the Interior has published a map of France, on 
a scale of 1 : 100,000, which may be obtained at the Librairie Hachette, 
Boulevard St. Germain 79, Paris. This, which is issued in 587 sheets 
in five colours is convenient for ordinary use, though not sufficiently 
accurate for mountain-excursions (price per sheet 80 c. or 1 fr. 55 c. 
on cloth). 

The excellent Carle Touristt de France (1 : 400,000), in 15 sheets 
in six colours, issued by Andiiveau-Goujon (Henry Barr^re, Rue 
du Bac 21, Paris) in conjunction veith the Touring-Club (p. xx), does 
not stop at the frontiers and gives indications as to road -surfaces, 
gradients, historical monuments, etc. (2^2 fr. per sheet, 4 fr. on 
cloth). — The Carte Bicherel (Theuveny, Rue Taitbout 80. Paris) 
is a reproduction of the above-mentioned map on a scale of 1 : 200,000 
with some additional indications (2^/2 fr. per sheet). — Other 
cycling-maps are the Ca/rte Taride, published by A. Taride, Boulevard 
St. Denis 18 (1:250,000; 90c. per sheet, 21/2 fr. on cloth); and 
the Carte GuUlot (1 : 250,000; 1 fr., 2V2 fr. on cloth), issued by 
Plon, Nourrit, et Cie., Rue Garanci^re 8. — A special map of the 
Vosges and neighbourhood has been prepared by Commandant 
Frezard in six colours (1 : 320,00t); 172fr) a^^d niay be obtained 
from J. B. Schmitt et Fils, Belfort. 

A special map of France for motorists (1 : 900,000), published 
in four colours in five sections (price 4 fr.), may be obtained from 
Theuveny (see above), who sells also similar maps on a larger scale 
(1 : 200,000) of the Environs of Paris and some other districts 
(1 fr. each). 

All these maps may be obtained in the chief tourist-resorts, but 
it is advisable to procure them in advance. The following shops in 
Paris have always a full supply on hand: Barr^re^ Rue du Bac 4; 
Chapelot^ Rue et Passage Dauphine 30 ; Plon, Nourrit, et Cie., Rue 
Garanci^re 8. 

The catalogue of the Service G^ographique de TArm^e (1 fr.) contains 
key -plans of its maps, including also those of Algeria, Tunis, and Africa 
generally (parts sold separately 10 c; Algeria and Tunis, 25 c.). "BarrfereN 
catalogue (gratis) has key-pJans of the 1:80,0(X), 1:200,000. and 1:820,000 
maps; and key-plans of the 1:100,000 map may be obtained at Hacheite's, 
Uoulevard St. Germain 79. 


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Digitized by 



Digitized by LnOOQlC 

i NORTB-EATnar itA^wrff 

1 ' -» :rmi 8t JiiBL ami^CTBnBt 61 

'^ F ^'rm Ainieos (Ctlaii. fannpm ra^ lIndiniE-sar-Xiiiie 

I fUi'* ni UoQ iBt IbffiinE- ... 63 

('* FVom tftlaii to NucT Bbbbue;; ^ ILdLi. Talen- 

r?pnB«. Hinoiif iM liOnaDfnL ...... 65 

K-t>ii ir— tirrri wfarrrwrtfr jbc a ^TBnw% (jBl — 
Vntm iiintm to Eetinsr l*r»-ft:iInBi. * — Fpj* Le 
r'n»fflbiou Ui Roeroi. :^ 

'•■^rn farii to >'*miir(Bn»afiL -oiiiipiit} 67 

^ •• "^t. Uugntin ind Mwiwyf ; A»-flfei— b| . . 67 




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1 . From Calais to Amiens and Paris . 3 

I. From Calais to Amiens 5 

a. Vi4 Boulogne and Abbeville 5 

Wissant, 6. — From Boulogne to Bonningues^ to 

St. Omer; to Arras, 10. — Le Touquet. From Rang- 
du-Fliers-Verton to Berck, 11. — From Noyelles to St. 
Valery-snr-Somme ; to Le Crotoy, 12. — From Abbeyille ; 
to B^thune, 13 ; to Dompierre-sur-AutMe (Gr^cy), 14. — 
From Longpr^ to Le Tr^port; to Ganaples, 14. 

b. Via Hazebrouck and Arras 15 

Aire-sur-la-Lys. From Hazebrouck to Ypres, 17. — 
From Lens to Armenti^res ; to Libercourt ^ to Fr^vent, 

18. — From Achiet to Marcoing via Bapanme, 21. 

c. Vii Anvin, St. Pol, Fr^vent, and DouUens ... 22 
Agincourt, 22. — Naours, 23. 

II. From Amiens to Paris 23 

a.ViaCreil 23 

FoUeville. From St. Just to La-Rue-St-Pierre and to Beau- 
vais,23. — From Clermont to Beauvais \ to Compi^gne, 24. 
b. Via Beauvais 24 

2. Amiens 24 

From Amiens to Rouen; to Anmale, 31. 

3. From Paris to Beauvais and Le Treport (Mers) ... 31 
I. From Paris to Beauvais 31 

a. Via Montsoult and Beaumont 31 

From Beaumont to Creil; to Pontoise; to Hermes, 32. 

b. Via Chantilly and Creil 32 

From Beauvais to Gournay; to Gisors, 35. 

II. From BeauYais to Le Trtfport 36 

From Bu to Ault and Onival, 36. 

4. From Dunkirk to Arras (Paris) 37 

Malo-Ies-Bains. From Dunkirk to Furnes; to Calais, 
40. — From Bergues to Hondschoote, 41. 

5. From Amiens to Arras, Douai, and Valenciennes . . 41 

From Douai to Orchies and Tonrnal; to Pont-a-Marcq. 
From Somain to P^ruwclz vi^ Anain, 46. — From Valen- 
ciennes to Maubeuge; to Mons, 49. 

6. From Douai and Valenciennes to Lille and Courtrai . 60 
I. From Douai to Lille 50 

II. From Valenciennes to Lille 60 

From St. Amand to Blanc-Misseron •, to Tournai, 50. — 
From Orcbies to Tourcoing, 51. 

III. From Lille to Courtrai 61 

From Tourcoing to Menin, 52. 

7. LiUe 62 

From Lille to Tournai; to B^thune^ to Tpres, 60. 

8. From Paris to Cambrai 61 

a. Via Creil, St. Quentin, and Busigny . Qi 

Baedbkbk^s Northern France. 5th Edit. ^^^^ ^1 d 


b. Via Oreil, St. Just, and Ptfronne 61 

From Cambrai to Douai; to Bavai (Dour); to Valen- 
ciennes, 63. 
9. From Amiens (Calais, Boalogne) to Oh&lons-sur-Marne 

(Bale) Tii Laon and Rheims 63 

10. From Calais to Nancy (Strassburg) yia Lille, Valen- 

ciennes, Hlrson, and Longayon 65 

From Annenti^reg to Berguette and to Comines, 65. — 
From Hirson to Eevigny (Bar-le-Duc), 66. — From Le 
Trembloifl to Bocroi, 67. 

11. From Paris to Namur (Brussels, Cologne) 67 

a. Via St. Quentin and Maubeage (Mons-Brussels) . . 67 

From Chantilly to Cr^py-en-Valois, 68. — From Com- 
piigne to ViUer0>Cotteret8 via Pierrefonds •, to Gr^py-en- 
Valois; to Amiens, 70. — From Ghauny to Laon via 
Coney -le-Chiteau, 71. — From St. Quentin to Gnise^ 
to Boisel) to Candry - Cambr^is. From Busigny to 
Hirson. From Le Gateau to Gambrai, 73. — From 
Maubeuge to Hons (Brussels); to Hirson, 74. 

b. Via Soissons, Laon, and Anor 75 

From Anizy to Pr^montr^, 76. — From Laon to M^- 
zieres-Charleville vi& Liart; to Valenciennes, 77, 78. 

c. Via Soissons, Rbeims, and M^zidres 78 

Xontherm€ and its Environs j Valley of the Semoy, 79. 

12. From Paris to Rbeims 81 

a. Via Meanx and La Fert^-Milon 81 

b. Via Soissons 81 

c. Via Meaux and Epernay 84 

13. Rheims 84 

From Rheims to Gbaions-sur*Marne via Ambonnay ■, to 
Gormicy; to Fismes and Dormans, 89. 

14. From Paris to Metz 89 

a. Via Ohaions and Fronard 89 

From Pompey to Nomeny, 89. — Mousson, 90. 

b. Via Cbaions and Verdnn 90 

From Gonflans-Jamy to Audun-le-Ruman, etc., 92. 

c. Via Rheims and Verdun 93 

d. Via Rbeims and M^zidres-Cbarleville 93 

From Bazancourt to Apremont. Sorbon •, Barby, 9d. — 
From Sedan to Bouillon; to L^rouville (l^ancy), 97. — 
Avioth. From Xontm^dy to Virton. From Longuyon 
to Luxembourg; to Nancy, 98. 

16. From Paris to Nancy (Strassburg) 99 

I. From Paris to Chaions-sur-Marne 100 

From Bondy to Aulnay-l^-Bondy. From Lamy to 
Mortcerf, 100. — Jouarre, 101. — From Chateau-Thierry 
to Romilly, 102. — From Epernay to F^re-Gham- 
penoise (Bomilly) \ to Montmirail, 108. — L'Epine, 105. 

II. From Ohaions-sur-Mame to Nancy 105 

From Vitry-le-Franfois to Jessains. From Revigny 
to Haironville; to Triaucourt, etc., 106. — From Bar- 
le-Duc to Glermont-en-Argonne and Verdun, 106. 

16. Nancy HO 

From Nancy to Ghftteau-Salint (Vic; Saargemttnd), 116. 


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1. From Calais to Amiens and Paris. 

188 X. to 212 M. Railway in 374-11 hrs-f according to the route selected. 
The shortest route is ylft Boulogne, Abbeyille, and Greil (flares 83 fir. 40, 
22 fr. 56, 14 fr. 70 c); the longest, seldom taken, vit Hazebrouck and Arras 
(fares 3o fr. 50 c, 24 fr., 16 fr. 66 c). The alternative routes given below 
may be combined to suit individual convenience. — Ytotv London to CalaUi 
see p. xili. 

Calais. — SUtions. CalaU-Maritime (PI. C, 2), for the English traffic ; 
(kOais-Vilk^ or Oare Centrale (PI. B, 6), for all trains except those of the 
Anvln linej Oare des Fontinettes (PI. B, 7) and Cakri»-8t-JHerre (PL A, 6), for 
the Anvin line. 

Hotels. Ckntkal, in the Gare Centrale, B. from 3, D. 3 fr., good; Tkk- 
MiNUS, in the Gare Maritime. — Gband-HStbl (PI. a^ B, 4), Place Richelieu, 
R. from 3, B. IVi^ d^j. or D. 4, pens, from 10, omn. V? ^^"i good; Xbubics 
(PI. b; B, C, 3), Rue de Guise 7, R. from 3, B. IV4, d^j. or D. 3, pens, 
from 10, omn. Vs fr. ; du Sauvagb (PI. c; B, 3, 4), Rue Royale 39, 
R. from 3, B. 1, d^j. or D. 3^/2, pens, from 9V3) omn. 1 fr.. good; dd 
GoMMBKCB (PI. d; B, 4), Rue Royale 61; Victokia (PI. e; G, 3), Rue des 
Thermes 34. 

Bestanraata at the hotels (see above) and at the duino (p. 5; d^j. 3Vs, 
O. 33/4 fr.). — Cafes. BellmWy du Glohe^ Place d'Armes; Qrand-Cifi^ at 
St. Pierre, corner of the Boulevards Pasteur and Lafayette. 

Post i; Telegraph Ofllces, Place Richelieu (Calais ; PI. B, 4) and Boule> 
vard Pasteur 2 (St. Pierre; PI. C, 6). 

Oaba. Per drive, 1-2 pers. 90 c, 3 pers. 1 fr. 20, 4 pers. 1 fr. 60 c. ; 
per hour, IVs) 2, or 2Vs fr. ; double tare after 11 p.m. 

Tramways. 1. From the Place dTArmee (PI. B, C, 3) to the Pont St. Pierre 
(PI. E, 6). 2. From the Boulevard Jacquart (PI. G, 6, 6) to the former Gare 
de St. Pierre (PI. A, 6). 3. From the Boul. Jacquart to the Oare des FonU- 
nette* (PI. B, 7). 4. From the Pont St. Pierre (PI. E, 6) to the HaUe St. Pierre 
(comp. PI. F, 8). A small omnibus runs in the season from the Place 
dTArtnu (PI. B, G, 3) to the Casino (sea-baths; PI. A, 2) ; fares 10-16 c. — A 
tramway also runs from Calais to OuSnes (p. 22), via Pont-du-Leu, Goulogne, 
TEduse- Carrie, and Banc- Valois (fares 15-60 c). — Hotors for Wissant^ 
see p. 6. 

Steamboat to Dover (for London, p. xiii), thrice daily ; fares 13 fr. 65, 
11 fr. 16 c. 

Banks. Adcan A Co.^ Rue Royale 8; Banque de France, Rue Leveux 28; 
Cridit Lyonnaiti Boulevard Jacquart 37; Sociiti Oinirale, Boulevard Gam- 
betta 8. 

British Consul, C. A. Payton, Rue St. Denis 16; Vlce-Consul, E. H. 
Blomefield (also Lloyd's agent). — American Consul, Ja$. B. Milner, Rue de 
Moscou 14; Vice-Consul, H. C. Hall. 

Bngliah Church (Holif Trinity; PI. D, 6), Rue du Xoulin-Brdle ; chaplain, 
Reo. If. H. UmberSi B. A. — Wesleyan Chapel, Rue du Temple. Services 
at both at 11 a.m. and 6.30 p.m. 

Calais, a town with 66,627 Inhab., including St. Pierre-Us- 
Calais (p. 5), and a fortress of the first class, derives its chief im- 
portance from its harbour and its traffic with England, to which it 
is the nearest port on the French coast. The chalk cliffs and castle 
of Dover, 21 M. distant, are visible in clear weather. About 300,000 
travellers pass through the town annually; and in addition there is 
a brisk trade In timber, coal, etc. Calais contains 1500 English 
residents, chiefly engaged in its tuile-manufaotories (p. 5). 

Calais played a prominent part in the early wars between TOnce and 
England. Its harbour was the rendeevous for the fleet of the Dauphin Louis, 

4 Route 1, CALAIS. From Calais 

whose aid had been invited by the discontented English barons against 
King John. In 1346-47, after the battle of Cr^cy, Edward III. starved it 
into surrender after a desperate resistance of eleven months. He consented 
to spare the town on condition that six noble citizens should place them> 
selves, clad in their shirts and with halters about their necks, at his ab- 
solute disposal; and it was only by the urgent intercession of his queen, 
Philippa of Hainault, that he was induced to spare the lives of the un- 
fortunate men, at whose head was the patriotic Eustache de St. Pierre. 
Calais remained in the hands of the English until 1658, when the Duke 
of Guise with 30,000 men succeeded in expelling the small English gar- 
rison (500 men) after a siege of seven days. In 1560 Mary Stuart set sail 
from Calais to assume the Scottish crown ; and in 1814 Louis XVIII. landed 
here on his return to his kingdom. The Spaniards made themselves masters 
of Calais in 1596, but the treaty of Vervins in 1698 restored it permanently 
to France. 

The Harbour J whicli is accessible at all states of the tide, has 
been more than doubled in size by extensive new works, recently 
completed at a cost of 2,400, OOOi. The Old Harbour^ with the former 
railway-station, lies nearest to the Place d^Armes; the imposing 
♦iVcto Harbour farther to the E. Between the two stand the Monu- 
ment des Sauveteurs (PI. 3 ; B, 3), by Lormier, and, a little farther 
on, a Column (PI. 1 j 0, 3) commemorating the return of Louis XVIII. 
in 1814. The Qare Maritime (PI. C, 2), or Pier Station, where 
passengers from England find the trains for Paris, Brussels, etc. 
waiting, is situated on the N.E. side of the Avant-Port (PI. B, 0, 2), 
and is connected with the Oare Centrale (see p. 5) by a short 
branch-line skirting the new harbour. 

The old Hdtel de VilU (PL B, C, 3), in the Place d'Armes, the 
centre of the old town, was erected in 1740 on the site of a former 
building of which the tower still remains (15th cent.). In front it 
is adorned with small bronze busts (1636) of Richelieu, the founder 
of the citadel and the arsenal, and the Due de Guise, Uib^rateur de 
Calais en 1558'. On the balcony is a bust of Eustache de St. Pierre 
(see above). The H6tel de Ville contains a small Musie, open 10 
to 4 or 5 on Mon., Thurs., Sat., Sun., and holidays (on other days 
entr. from the street behind the tower). 

Ground Floor. Sculptures and antiquities ^ natural history collec- 
tions. — IsT Floor. Natural history collections, weapons, ethnographical 
collection, small works of art, fayence, and various other objects. 

2ni> Floor. Paintings. From right to left: 134. CMfflart, Bomeo and 
Juliet; 138. Amaurp'Duval, Portrait of a child (study); 131. JS. RegnauU, 
Orpheus in Hades; 129. Tatteffrain, Women begging for alms at Berck-sur- 
Mer; 42. Brueghel tJu Elder, Masquerade; SO. iif^owd, Fori rait of Louis XV.; 
40. Honthorei, Shepherd; 39. Rubens, Judgment of Paris; 27. Albamo, Bacchus 
demanding immortality for Ariadne; 109-112. Van der Puyl, Portraits; 19. 
LeBourffuignon^ Battle; 10. Bibera, Anatomical lesson; 8. If. Pousdn, Triumph 
of Bacchus; 63. VandeVade, Landscape; 62. Ph. Wouverman, Battle (1620). 
— Porcelain, lace, plans and views of Calais. 

To the left is a massive square Watch Tower, the foundation 
of which is referred to 810, and which was used as a lighthouse 
until 1848. 

The church of Notre-Dame (PI. C, 4), approached by the street 
of the same name leading to the £. from the Place d'Armes, was 

to Amiens, CALAIS. /. Route. 5 

almost completely rebuilt durlDg the Euglish occapation of the 
town, and it has undergone considerable renovation since 1866. 
The building on the left is a reservoir ; the spire is unpleasing. 
The high-altar, with a fine reredos in Italian marble (1624-28), 
decorated with statues, high reliefs, and an Assumption by SegherSy 
the iron choir-screen, and a Descent from the Cross by Rubens (?), 
in the left transept, are the chief objects of interest in the interior. 

At the end of the Rue de Guise, which begins to the left of the 
H6tel de Ville, is th^ H6tel de Ouise (PI. B, C, 4), in the English 
Tudor style, originally founded by Edward III. as a guildhouse for 
the woolstaplers , and presented to the Duke of Guise after his 
capture of the town. The Place Richelieu leads hence towards the 
Gare Centrale, passing the Jardin Richelieu (PI. C, 4), in which a 
^Monument to Eustache de 8t, Pierre and his Companions (PI. 2 ; 
p. 4), by Rodin, was erected in 1896. On the opposite side of the 
street is the Hotel dea Pastes (PI. B, 4), with the Public Library 
(ca, 25,000 vols, and 97 MS S.) on the first floor (open daily, except 
Sun., 10-1 and 4-9; closed in Sept.). 

The Sea-Bathing EstablUhment (PL A, 2-, i fr., ladies 1 fr. 10 c.) and the 
Ccuino are situated beyond the old harbour, on a line beach (omn., see p. 3). 

The Qare Centrale (PI. B, 5), or principal railway-station, lies 
between Calais proper and St. Pierre, and has approaches from 
both. Near it, on the St. Pierre side, is a pretty Park (PL B, 0, 5). 

St. PiBBBB-LEs- Calais, the industrial and commercial part of 
Calais, has extensive manufactures of tulle and lace, an industry 
which was introduced from Nottingham in 1818. The Church of 
St. Pierre (PI.D, 7), built in 1862-70 in the style of the 13th cent., 
and the Hdtel de ViUe (1858-64) are both situated in the Place 
Cr^vecoeur. To the right of the Place Centrale is a War Monument 
(1904), andin the Place del'Egalit^ stands the new Tft«a<re (PI. C, 6). 

From June to Bept. Omnibuses run thrice daily (in 1 hr. ; 76 c.) from 
the Place d*Armes to (5 M.) Sangatte- Flags (Hdt. de la Plage; des Bains ; 
Guersent S^gau), a small bathing-place ^{z M. from Cap Blanc-Nez (p. 6), 
served also by the motor-cars to and from Wisaant (p. 6). 

From Calais to Dvnkirky see p. 40; to Nancy (Strastburg)^ see E. 10; 
to Ch6lons-$ur-Mame (BAU)^ see R. 9. 

I. From Calais to Amiens. 

a. Via Boulogne and Abbeville. 

102 M. a03V4 M. from the Gare Maritime). Bailwat in 2-5 hrs. 

(fares 18 fr. 60, 12 fr. 56, 8 h. 16 c; or 18 fr. 90, i2 fr. 80, 8 fr. 80 c). — 

From Boulogne to Amiens, 76 Va M., in lVr4 hrs. (fares 14 fr., 9 fr. 36, 

6 fr. 10 c). 

After leaving Calais we pass (1 1/4 M.) Les Fontinettes and (I72 ^0 
St. Pierre (see above), beyond which diverges the line to Anvin 
(p. 22). — 41/2 M. Frethun. — As the train approaches (10 M.) 
Caffiera we enjoy a fine view to the left. — 15V2 M. Marquise- 
Rinxent. Marquise (Grand Cerp, a small town (3560 inhab.) 1 V4 M. 
to the N.E., has important iron foundries and marble-quarries, the 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

6 Route I . BOULOGNE-SUK-MER. From Calais 

latter situated in the *ValWe Heureuse', a favourite point for ex- 
cursions from Boulogne. 

Aboat 7 M. to the N. of the station (in summer omn. four times daily, 
motor-car twice) lies WiMaat (Cfr.-Hdt. de la Digw^ E. 2-7, B. 1, d^j. 3, 
D. 3, pens. 8-12 fr. ; H6t. des Baim ; de la Fiage)y a sea-bathing place, 
between Gap Gris-Kes (see below) and Cap Blanc-Net (440 ft.). In the 
season motor-cars ply hence to Ambletense (IV4 fr.) and Wimereux and to 
Calais (2 fr. s 60 min.) vi^ 0/4 hr.) Sangatte (p. 5). 

2172 M. WimiUt'Wimtreux, WimiUe, 2/3 M. to the right, has 
a church dating from the 12-13th centuries. 

Wimereux. Hotels. *Splendid Hotels 150 R., d^j. 4, D. 5 fr., * Grand 
Ifdtelj both on the beach) *0rand-H6tel Mawriden^ d€j. 4, D. 6 fr. — 
Hdtel de la Plage; dee Bctint^ R. from 6, pens. 6V2-9 fr.; Bellevue; Beauri- 
vage\ de f Union, R. from 3, pens, from 7 fr.; iftiMsr, pens, from 7 fr. •, 
Moderne; de la Paix; etc. — Pension Villa Edouard, Rue Gamot, 12 fr. — 
Poet d: Telegraph Office^ Rue Garnot. 

TTtmersuor, at the mouth of the river of the same name, is a bathing- 
place of comparatively recent date, with a good beach (bathing-box and 
costume IV2 fr.), a Grand Casino^ and a race-course and golf-course (272 fr. 
per day) 1 M. to the 1^. (at Aubengttesy Gr.-Hdt. Cosmopolite). Tramway 
to Boulogne, see p. 7. A motor-omnibus plies 6 times daily in summer 
to Ambleteuse and (50 min. \ 2 fr.) Wiesant (see above) and a *Train Re- 
nard' 5 times daily to (25 min.) Ambleteuse (Orand-Hdtel; H6t. Delpierre), 
another little bathing-place 3^/4 M. to the N., with a good beach. James II. 
landed here in 1689 on his flight from England. Cap Grie-Net (165 ft.; 
H6t. de la Sirene), on which rises an electric lighthouse, 5 M. beyond 
Ambleteuse, is the nearest point of France to England (I6V2 H.). 

23 M. Terllncthun^ 1/2 M. from the Colonne de la Grande Armtfe, 
marking the situation of Napoleon's camp (p. 10). Beyond a tun- 
nel, Y2 M. long, we enter the station of — 

25 M. Boulognt'Tinttlleriti (see below), where passengers to 
Boulogne by through - trains to and from Amiens alight. Other 
trains pass through another tunnel, cross the Liant by means of a 
curved viaduct, and enter the Orande Oare of — 

25V2 ^* Boulogne-BUr-Mer. — Statiom. Boulogne-Central or Grande 
Gare (PI. D, E, 4), on the left bank of the Liane, near the Arriere Port; 
Botdogne-MariHme (PI. D, 2; buffet), a little to the K., for the English trafQc; 
Bottlogne-Tintelleries (PI. F, 2), for the express trains between Calais and 

Hotels (comparatively expensive). Near the baths : Hotel dv Pavillom 
Imp^kiai. et des Bains de Mer (PI. a; D, 1), Boul. Ste. Beuve 98, 260 R.; 
Brighton et Marine (PI. b; D, 2), Boul. Ste. Beuve, R. from 6, B. IVi, 
d^j. 4, D. 6, pens, from 12V2 fr-i »" Folkestone (PI. c; D, 2), Quai Gam- 
betta 74; Black's Globe Hotel, Quai Gambetta 70, d^j. 3, D. 4, pens, from 
10 fr.; H6t. de Paris (PI. d; D, 2), Quai Gambetta 64, R. from 6, B. IV2, 
d^j. 872, D. 5, pens, from 12 fr.^ Hot. du Nord, d'Europe, et (3ontinental 
(PI. f; D, 2), Rue de Boston 68, d^j. 3, D. 4 fr.; Hot. -Pens. Berry 
(PI. e; D, 2), Rue de Boston 86. — In the town: HSt. Ohristol et 
Bristol (PI. g \ E, 3), Place Fr^d^ric-Sauyage 14, near the station ; Hburicb 
(PI. i; E, 3), Rue Victor-Hugo 36, R. from 4, B. IV4, d^j. 8, D. 4, pens, 
from 12 fr.; Dervaux (PI. m; F, 3), Grande-Rue 75, opposite the Museum; 
DD LoDVRE (PI. n; D, 3), Place de la R^publique, near the station, R. from 4, 
d^j- 2V2> D- 3, pens, from 10 fr., good; dd Commerce (PL ; E, 3), Rue Thiers 
27; MftTROPOLE-HdTSL (PI. 1; E, 8), Rue Faidherbe 27; H6t. Castiglione 
(PI. q; D, 3). opposite the station, R. from 2V2, B. 1, d^j. 2V2, D. 3, 
pens, from 8 fr. ; de France (PI. p ; F, 3, 4), Rue Rationale 30, pens. 7V2 fr. 
(incl. beer); HSt. de Flandre (PI. k; E, 2), Quai GambetU 52, R. from 


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to Amiens, BOULOGNE-SUR-KER. 7. RouU. 7 

31/s, B. 1, d^j. 2Vs, D. 31/s. pens, from lO^/tfr. — In the upper town: Hdr. 
DB Bou&GooMs (PI. h; 0, 2, 3), Bue de Lille 11, B. from 3, B. 1-1 V4, d^j. 2, 
D. 3, pena. f^om 5 fr. — There are also numeroas Pensiorii. 

Beitauranti at most of the hotels ^ also at the Casino (d^j. 4, D. 6 fr.) 
and at the Gare Maritime. 

Oafai. Or.-Cm/i de Boulogru^ Bue Adolphe-Thiers 37; du FMnix, Bue 
Victor-Hugo 68; du Nord^ corner of Grande-Bue and Bue Victor-Hugo. 

Oabi. From 6 a.m. to midnight, per drive iVs fr., per hour 2 fr., with 
2 horses 2Vt fr. (otherwise same fares as with 1 horse) : from midnight to 
6 a.m. 2 fr. and 2i/i fr. ; outside the town, per hour 2vt fr., if discharged 
outside 26 c. per kilometre (Vs M.) for the return. 

Eleotrio Tramways. From the Plaob Dalton (PI. F, 8): 1. To the 
Ciuino (PI. D, 1); 3. To CMHUon and Le PorUl (comp. PI. C, 6), a fishing- 
village and bathing-resort 2 M. to the S.W.j i. To Mont-Jfetif-d^Outrtau 
(comp. PI. E, 6); 6. To the Dernier-Sou (PI. G, 2); 6. Along the coast (fine 
view) to Wimereux (comp. PI. G, D, 1); 7. To St. Martin (comp. PI. G, 2), 
via the Dernier^ou. 2. From the Casino (PI. D, 1) to Brequereeque (comp. 
PI. G, 6). Fares 10-80 c. — Karrow-gauge line to Bonningues, see p. 10. 

Steameri. To Folkestone (for London), London direct, and Ooole^ see 
pp. ziii, xiv. To iVetr York, steamers of tl^e Hamburg- America Line and Hol- 
land-America Line each once a week. — Excursion steamers on Sun. and 
holidays in summer (daily at the height of the season), 1 fr. for trip of 1 hr. 

Bathing Bitablishmant on the beach on the right bank of the Liane 
(p. 8). Sea-bath, incl. machine, 1 fr. ^ bath in the swimming-bath 50 c.; 
subscription for 12 baths 9 fr. or S^/z fr.; ladies' bathing costume 25c., 
drawers 15 c, *peignoir' 10 or 25 c, towel 5 or 10 c. — Hot Betths^ 1 fir. 

Oaaino (season 16tb June-15th Oct.). Adm. 1 fr., day ticket 2 fir.; per 
week 10, fortnight 17, month 29 fr.; double tickets 19, 32, or 54 fir., etc 
Adm. to Theatre 4 or 5 fr. Subscription to both 22, 39, or 67 fr. ; double 
ticket 39, 67, 111 fr.; etc. See the gratuitous ^Guide Programme'. 

Golf Linki (272 fr. per day) at Aubengues (p. 6). 

Post k Telegraph Office (PI. E, 3), Bue du Pot-d'Etain 24. 

Britiah Vioe-Oontnl, E. F. Farmer^ Bue Correnson 2. — American 
Oontular Agent, Wm, WhUmany Quai Gambetta 6. — Bankers. Banque de 
France^ Bue Victor-Hugo 46; SociiU Qintrale^ Bue Victor-Hugo 32; Adam 
A Co.y Bue Victor-Hugo 6 (also Lloyd's agents). — Merridete's Library^ Bue 
Victor-Hugo 60. 

Phyticiant. Dr. Carr, Boulevard Ste-Beuve ; Dr, Philip, Grande-Bue 95. 
— Sentiita. Mr. ^tUman, Bue Adolphe-Thiers 29; Mr. Manton^ Grande 
Bue Us Mr. McConaghy, Bue Victor -Hugo 44; Mr. Roper, Bue Adolphe 
Thiers 14. 

English Ohnrehea. Holp Trinity (PI. 1, E, 4; services at 11 A 7.80), 
Bue de la Lampe; Bev. W. M. Beid. — St, John's (PI. 2, F, 3; services 
at 11 & 5.80), Bue des Vieillards 28; Bev. J. B. Button Tompson. — 
Wesley an Methodist Church (PI. 3; F, 3), Grande-Bue 68; Bev. J. Gaskin; 
services at 11 and 7. 

Boulogne-sur-Mery the Bononia (?) or Oeasoriacum of the Ro- 
mans, is an important seaport and commercial town, sitaated on the 
Liane, with a population of 51,201, of whom over 1000 are English 
residents. Its numeroas schools enjoy a high reputation. Boulogne 
is an important herring-port and exports large quantities of salted 
fish; and it is the chief centre in France for the manufacture of 
steel pens, introduced from England in 1846. The town is divided 
into the Haute ViUe, or old town on the height to the E., and 
the much larger Basse VUle, including the harbour. The part of the 
Basse Ville on the left or W. bank of the Liane, in which is the 
principal railway-station (p. 8), is known as Capicure. . OOQ Ic 

8 RouU 1. BOULOGNE-SUR-BIER. From Calais 

The Harbour, especially the E. part near the Douane (PI. D, 2), 
presents a very hnsy scene. Boulogne stands next to Marseilles, Le 
Havre, and Bordeaux among the seaports of France. Its harbour, at 
one time tidal only, has heen greatly enlarged by extensive opera- 
tions originally begun in 1879 and resumed in 1901 . The port has 
been deepened to enable vessels to arrive and start at low water 
and a large deep-water harbour and a new naval basin are under 
construction. The Bassin d, flot, a large basin on the left bank of 
the Liane, was constructed by Napoleon to accommodate the flotilla 
which was to convey his troops to England (see p. 10). Hhe Building 
Slips are situated on the W. bank. The West Pier stretches into the 
sea for a distance of 765 yds. 

The Oare Maritime (PI. D, 2), on the quay of the Folkestone 
steamers (p. 6), is connected with the Central RaUway Station 
(PI. D, E, 4) by a short branch-line. On the right bank of the 
Liane, immediately beyond the Pont Marguet (PI. E, 3), is a bronze 
statue (PI. E, 3), by Lafrance, of Fridiric Sauvage (1786-1857), 
who was among the first to use screw propellers for steamboats. — 
Thence the Quai Oambetta leads to the N. to the Halle au Poisson 
(PI. E, 3), in the small square adjoining which is a statue of 
Edward Jenner (1749-1823), the discoverer of vaccination, by 
Eug. Paul (1858). 

The FUh Market is held early in the morning in the Halle (PI. E, 3). 
The fishermen and their families occupy a separate quarter Cla Beurri^re*) 
on the W. side of the town, and form one-tenth of the population. They 
partly adhere to the picturesque costume of their ancestors, and they differ 
somewhat in character and customs from the other inhabitants of the town. 

Farther along the busy quay is the Douane (PI. D, 2), or custom 
house, near which are bonded warehouses and the chamber of 

The *Etabli8sement des Bains, with its Garden and handsome 
Casino (PI. D, 1, 2), occupies the rest of the space between the 
Quai Gambetta and the cliffs (adm., see p. 7). The beach is sandy 
and very extensive. The Etablissement contains a swimming-bath 
for use when the sea is too rough for bathing. — The foot of the 
cliffs, beyond the casino, is skirted by the Boulevard Ste. Beuve, 
named in honour of the eminent critic (1804-69), who was born 
at Boulogne. 

The East Pier, or Jetee de VEst (PI. B, C, 1,2 j small restaurant), 
which extends 567 yds. into the sea, is a favourite promenade, 
especially at full tide, when the steamers enter or leave the port. 
In clear weather the South Foreland lights are visible; the revolving 
white and red light to the N. at Cap Gris-Nez is very distinct. — 
Ou the cliff are the ruins of a brick fort constructed by the English 
in 1545 near the Tour d^Odre ('Turris ardens'; PI. D, 1), a Roman 
beacon- tower, built under Caligula in A.D. 40 and pulled down in 
1644. — The church of St. Pierre-des-Marins (PI. E, 2j 1852), with 
a lofty spire, is in the Gothic style of the 14th century. r 

' ^ ' .oogle 

to Amiens. BOULOONE-SUR-MER. /. Route. 9 

We now retrace our steps to visit the town. The Rue Victor' 
Hugo (PI. £, 3) and its continuation, the Rue Nationale^ contain the 
principal shops . The Rue Adolphe- Thiers (PI . £, 3), parallel to the Rue 
Yictor-Hugo, is the principal artery of traffic in the town ; at its S. 
extremity is the Place Dalton (PI. F, 3), in which rises the church 
of St, Nicholas (13-18th cent.). This square is the chief tramway- 
centre. The Orande-Rue ascends from this point to the Haute Ville. 

The Museum (PI. F, 3), in the Grande-Rue, contains ethnograph- 
ical, historical, and natural history collections, some Egyptian an- 
tiquities, and a few pictures, mostly of the modem French school 
(open in summer daily, except Tues., 11-4; in winter on Sun., 
Wed., Thurs., and Sat.). The Public Library^ on the second floor, 
contains 64,500 vols, and 239 MSS. (open daily 9.30-12.30 & 2-4, 
5, or 6, except during Easter-week and from Sept. 15tk to 30th; 
on Sun. and holidays closed in the afternoon). 

At the top of the Grande-Rue, on the left, is the Sous-Prefecture 
(PI. F, 3), the pretty Square in front of which is adorned with a 
bust of Henri II, hy David d^ Angers, commemorating the restoration 
of the town to France by the English in the reign of that monarch 
(1650). In the Boulevard Auguste-Mariette, farther on, is a bronze 
statue of Aug. Mariette (PL G, 2), the eminent Egyptologist, who was 
a native of Boulogne (1821-81), by Jacquemart. To the left, lower 
down, is a public park known as Les Tintelleries (PL F, 2), where 
concerts are given in summer. A monument in this park, by Thomas, 
commemorates the first successful balloon-voyage from France to 
England, achieved in 1883 by Fr. Lhoste. Close by is the Boulogne- 
Tintelleries Station (p. 6) on the line to Calais. 

The Haute ViLLB (PLF, G,2, 3), forming approximately a square 
(435 yds. by 355 yds.), is enclosed by massive walls and bastions, 
40-55 ft. high, dating from 1231. It has four gateways, flanked by 
massive round towers, the Porte des Dunes, the Porte Oayole, the 
Porte de Calais, and the Porte des Degri8(fQi foot-passengers only). — 
We enter by the Porte des Dunes, within which, to the left, are 
situated the modem Palais de Justice (PL F, 3) and (a little farther 
on) the Hdtel de Ville (PI. G, 3), erected in 1734 and said to oc- 
cupy the site of an ancient castle, where the crusader Godfrey de 
Bouillon was born in 1065. 

In the Rue de Lille, which leads from the H6tel de Ville to the 
Porte de Calais, is the Cathedral of Notre-Dame fPl. G, 2), a building 
in the degraded Italian style, erected in 1827-66. The lantern sur- 
mounting the dome is crowned with a colossal statue of the Virgin 
(fine view ; ascent, 1 fr. ; custodian at the S. portal). 

The interior contains an elaborate high -altar, executed in Borne at 
the expense of the Torlonia family; a fine monument to Hgr. Haffreingue 
(d. 1871), who built the church; and a Lady Chapd, which id resorted to 
by pilgrims during the last fortnight of August. — The Crypt (adm. 1 fr.), 
dating partly from the 7th cent., contains antiquities found in digging the 
foundations of the church. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

10 Route 1, MONTREUIL-SUR-MER. From CalaU 

The Chdteau (PI. G, 2), in which Louis Napoleon wag confined 
after the attempted insurrection of 1840, is the ancient citadel of 
Boulogne, and dates from 1231. It is now converted into barracks 
and an artillery depot (no admission). — The old Cemetery in the 
Route de St. Martin (beyond PI. G, 2) contains the graves of Sir 
Harris Nicolas, Basil Montague^ and numerous other Englishmen. 

In 1804 Napoleon I. assembled an army of 172,000 infantry and 9000 
cavalry on the table-land to the K. of Boulogne, under the command of 
Marshals Soalt, Key, Davoust, and Victor, and collected in the harbour 
a flotilla of 2413 craft of various dimensions, for the purpose of invading 
Bngland and establishing a republic there. The troops were admirably 
drilled, and only awaited the arrival of the fleets from Antwerp, Brest, 
Cadiz, and the harbours of the Mediterranean, which had been in the 
course of formation for several years for this express purpose. Their 
union was prevented by the English fleet under Sir Robert Calder; and 
the victory of Kelson at Trafalgar, on 22nd Oct., 1806, completed the 
discomfiture of the undertaking. 

Kapolbon's Column, or the CoUmne dt la Cfrande-AmUe^ a Doric column, 
176 ft. in height, situated IV2 M. from Boulogne on the road to Calais (comp. 
PI. 0, 1, 2) « was founded in 1804 to commemorate the expedition against 
England, the first stone being laid by Marshal Soult in the presence of 
the whole army. The first empire left the monument unfinished, and in 
1821 Louis XVIII. caused the work to he resumed, intending that the 
column should commemorate the restoration of the Bourbons; but it was 
not completed till 1841 , when its original destination was revived. The 
summit (view) is occupied by a statue of the emperor, one of Bosio"* 
finest works. — Farther to the K.W. are the Fort dt Terlincthun and the 
Chdteau d'Eonvault^ occupied by Henry VIII. in 1544. 

Fbom Boulogne to Bonningubs (p. 22), 27>/« M., narrow-gauge railway 
in 2*/i hrs. (fares 3 fir. 15, 2 fr. 80 c.) vi4 Oitrohove, (4Vs M.) St. Martin, 
(13 M.) Le Waa$t, (15Vs M.) Colembert, and (^/s M.) JAcquu. 

Fbom Boulognb to St. Ombb, 40Vs M., railway in 2 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 85, 
4 fr. 90, 3 fr. 20 c). — This line diverges to the left from that to Paris 
at (51/2 M.) Htsdigneul (p. 11), and ascends the pretty valley of the 
Liane. — 10 M. Banur^ with 2168 inhab. t 15 M. Desvres^ an industrial town 
with 4039 inhab., at the foot of the Mont Hulin (695 ft.). The raUway 
skirts a range of picturesque hills. — lOVz M. Lottinffhem carries on the 
active preparation of phosphates, exported to England and Brittany for 
manure. — 28i/« M. Lumbres^ the junction of the line from Calais to Anvin 
(p. 22) i 87V« M. Arquss (4478 inhab.-, Hdt. de la Grande-Stc-Catherine), 
on the direct line from St. Omer to Berguette (p. 17). We then pass under 
the canal from Aire to St. Omer beside the hydraulic lift (p. 17; to the 
left), and join the line from Calais vi& Arras. — 4O1/2 M. St. Omer, see p. 16. 

Fbom Boulookb to Abbas, 79VsH., railway in 8V4-3S/4 hrs. (fares 14 fr. 
45, 9 fr. 70, 6 fr. 30 c). — This line diverges from the railway to Amiens 
at (17 M.) Staples (p. 11) and ascends the valley of the Canehe. 

*iS^li M. Montreuil-tur-Mer (Hdt. de France; BeUevue, pens. 6Vs fr.; 
du Renard-d'Or; du Comet-drOr)^ an ancient little town with 8635 inhab., 
is situated on a hill now 9Vs M. from the sea, though, as the name indicates, 
it was formerly on the coast. Montreuil was at one time fortified, and its 
lofty walls and citadel still remain. The Chwch was partly destroyed in 
1537 and was rebuilt at the end of the 16th century ; the Boepital, rebuilt 
in 1857, has a fine chapel in the style of the 15th century. — About IVs M. 
from the town, at the village of I^eutfille-*ou$'ifontreuily is the CfuMrtreuse 
de Neuoille or de Notre -Dame- dee 'Trie, the extensive buildings of which 
resemble those of the Grande Chartreuse near Grenoble, ^e convent, 
founded here in the 14th cent., was partly destroyed and sold at the Bevo- 
lution, but was repurchased by the Carthusians and almost completely 
rebuilt in 1872-75 in the Gothic style. Again sold in 1907 as a result of the 
Associations Law of 1901 it is now a private sanatorium (visitors admitted). — 

to Amiens. BERCK. /. RouU, 11 

From Montreuil-sur-Mer a line runs to (10 M.) Rang-du-FUert-Verton (see 
below), and another to (46 M.) Aire-*ur-la'Ly$ (p. 17) vi& (26 M.) Fruge* (p. 22) 
and (89 M.) Thirouannt^ a large village to the 8. of the site of the important 
mediaeval town of that name (the Taruama of antiquity), which was fort- 
ified by Francis I. but destroyed by Charles V. in 1658 in revenge for the 
loss of the *three bishoprics* (Metz, Verdnn, and Toul) in 1662. 

At (30 M.) BeaurctinviUe is a tower of the chateau in which Guy of 
Ponthieu imprisoned Harold of England in 1064. ^ STVs M. Heidin (Sd(. 
de Frtmce)i a small town founded by Charles V. in 1554, after the destruc- 
tion of Vieil Head/in^ 2V2-3 M. farther up the valley. From Hesdin roads 
lead to (12 M.) Grdcy (p. 14) and to Agincourt (p. I22). — 441/2 M. Blangy- 
sur-Temoise^ 3i/s H. to Uie S.E. of Agincourt (p. %). — 49 M. Anvin (p. 22). 
52 M. Wavrant. 55V2 M. St. Pol (p. 22). — The train ascends the valley of 
the Scarpe. — 71 M. Mont- Saint Eloi, a village on a height to the right, 
with a church with two tall towers (18th cent.) and other relics of an 
ancient abbey. The railway then turns to the left, and joins the line from 
Paris to Arras. — 79Vt M. Arras^ see p. 18. 

Quitting Boulogne the train traverses the valley of the Liane. 
At (263/4 M.) Outreau (5981 inhab.) the Une from the Gare Centrale 
joins that from Boulogne-Tintelleries (p. 6). To the left are the 
town of Boulogne and the bridge over the Liane on the line to Calais. 
Several large cement-works are passed. 2872 ^' Pont-de-Briquea 
(Hot. Lambeau). — 31 M. Hesdigneul (Hot. de la Gare; junction 
for St. Omer, see p. 10). 

About 6 H. to the S.W. of the station is the new bathing - resort 
Hardelot-Plage (BCt. Belkvue), with a golf-course, near the chateau and 
forest of the same name. During the season motors run from Boulogne 
(p. 6), Pont-de-Briques (see above), and Paris-Plage (see below). 

42 M. EtapUa (Buffet, dtfj. 2V2 ^r. ; Hot des Voyageurs, H6t. de 
la Gaie, opposite the station ; Hdt. Joos, in the square) is the junction 
for Arras (see p. 10). From Etaples an electric tramway (26 min. ; 
50-60 c.) pUes to (81/2 M.) Paris-Plage. 

Pazis-Plage or Le Touquet. — Hotels. •Atlantic Hotel, on the beach, 
closed in winter, 100 B. from 6, d^j. 4, D. 6, pens, from 16, omn. 2 fr., 
^Bermitage Eota, in the forest, 60 R., similar charges, two first-class 
houses belonging to the same proprietor; Orcmd-H6tel^ with the Casino 
Municipal, Boul. de la Her, open April-Sept., R. from 5, B. IV4, ddj. 4, 
D. 5, pens, from 12 fr.^ H6t. Rigina, in the forest, Ave. du Ohiiteau; H6t. 
des Bains, Rue de Paris, d^j. 2'^, D. 3, pens, from 7V« fr.; J7d/. des Dunes, 
B. from 3, pens, from V/t fr., Bdt. Duboc, R. from 3, D. Q^/a, pens, from 
7 fr., both open all the year round. — Pension Van der Heydsn, Rue 
St. Louis, from 10 fr. — Chalets and Furnished Houses. — Sea Baths 76 c. — 
Information at the Foneiire Immobiliire de Paris-Plage^ Villa St. Josse. 

Paris-Plage is a summer-resort of recent creation, situated at the mouth 
of the CanelUy with a fine sandy beach, two casinos, an esplanade, good 
golf-links, a motor-track, etc. The pine-woods (ForSt du Touquet) which 
fringe it were planted on the dunes in 1837. 

The train ciosses the Bale de la Canche by a viaduct. 46 M. 
8t, JoBse, — 49 M. Eang-d^i-FUers-Verton (see above). 

Fbom RAMO-DU-FLiSBS-VKKTOir TO Bbbck, 31/2 M., railway in 1/4 hr. (fares 
70, 66, 40 c). Prolongation to Paris-Plage (see above) projected. 

Berok. — Hotbls (at Berck-Plage; open all the year round). Qr.-H6t. 
ds France et des Bains: sGr.-HOt, de la Paix; Hdt. de Russie, R. from 4, 
B. 1, d^. 4, D. 4, pens, from 9 fr. : Continental^ R. from 3, pens, from 7 fr. ; 
d$ Paris, on the beach, R. from 2, pens, from 6 fr. ; du Olobs^ pens, from 
6 fr.; du Jfordi de la Terrasse, pens, from 6 fr. ; de VEspirance; du Com- 
merce. — Pbmsiok. Cottage des Dunes, with a large garden, pens, from 
7V« fr. — ChaUts and Furnished Houses to let. — Casinos (adm. 60 c). 

12 RouU U ABBEVILLE. Ffom Calais 

Eden Casino^ witlihdt.-re8taarant, on the beacb; Kurtaaly Ave. de la Oare. — 
Post A TtUaraph Office, at Berck-Plage station. — 8%a Baihs. Bathing-box 30, 
^peigTioir* 25, towel K) c. — Syndieat (TJnitiaHve^ Rae Carnot. 

Berek proper, a flshing-village, lies 11/4 M. from Bmrck-Plagty the modem 
sea-bathing place. The latter has the reputation of being remarkably 
healthy and several hospitals have been established here. The beach is 
entirely of sand and there is a long esplanade. 

About 6 H. Arom Kang-dn-Fliers station is Herlimont-PUge (Qr.-H6t. 
de la Plage; H6t. de la Terroisej BelUvueJ^ another small bathing-resort. 

The name of (681/2 M.) Conchil-U-Temple is a reminiscence of 
the Knights Templar. The Authie is ciossed. 56 M. Quend-Fort- 
Mahon is the station for Qucnd-Plage (H6t. Bellevue) and Fort 
Mahon (H6t. de Paris; de la Tour), two small bathing-places. — 
69V2M. Bue (H6t. du Chemin-de-Fer ; dee Voyageurs), The beautiful 
Chapelle du 8t, Esprit, adjoining the church, is a relic of an older 
church dating from the 13- 16th centuries. 

66 M. Noyelles-sur-Mer (Hot. des Voyageurs) is connected by a 
hranch-railway with (7 M.) Forest-V Ahhayt (p, 14). In the vicinity 
is the ford of BLanchetaque, where Edward III. crossed the Somme 
before the battle of Crtfcy. 

A branch-railway runs from Koyelles, along an embankment washed 
by the sea at high tide, to (SVs^-) St. Valery-tnr-Somme (Caeino-Orand- 
H6tel; H6t. de France et de FamUte; du lAon-d^Or; du Commerce)^ a town 
with 3656 inhab., a casino, and modest baihing-arrangements. From this 
little port William the Conqueror finally set sail for England on Sept. 27th, 
1066 (comp. p. 155). Some of the ancient fortifications still remain. At low 
tide the wet sands at the mouth of the Somme may be crossed on foot 
(two ferries, 20 and 16 c.) to (V4 hr. j 2 M.) Le Grotoy (see bolow). — From 
St. Valery the line goes on to (11 M.) Cayenx (H6t. des Bains ; du (Commerce 
et de la Plage*, Central), a frequented sea-bathing resort, about Vf^ M. 
to the N.E. of which lies BrigJUon- Plage (H6t. Bellevue: des Sapins). 

Another branch-railway runs from Noyelles to (5 M.) Xe Orotoy (Oremd- 
Bdtel; H6t. de la Marine; du Crotop), an unpretending sea-bathing place, 
with a small harbour and some remains of its old fortifications. 

To the right as we proceed stretches the wide hay at the mouth 
of the Somme, crossed by the branch-line to St. Valery (see above). 
Beyond (69 M.) Port-U-Orand we cross the canalized Somme. 

74 M. Abbeville. — Hotels. H6t. db la T£tk-dk-B<eup (PI. a; C, 4), 
E. from 3, B. IV43 d^i. 3, D. 3V2| pens, from 9, omn. V2 fr., good; db Fkanob 
(PI. hi C, 3), R. 2V2-^' ^- ^> d^J- ^» !>• 3V2, pens. 10-lUV«, omn. 1/2 fr.? db ia 
Qabb (Pi. c; A, 5), B. from 2, D. 3 fr. — Oafis in the Place de TAmiral 
Courbet. — Oabi. Per drive, l-2pers. 75 c, 3-4pers. Ifr.; per hr. I'/a or 
2 fr. — Pott ft Telegraph Offloe (PI. B, 4), Orande-Bue-Kotre-Dame 19. — 
Sufimming Bath (PI. B, 6), Boul. des Pr^s. 

AhbeviUe, an ancient fortress and an important cloth- manu- 
facturing town, with 20,704 inhab., is situated on the Somme, on 
which there is a small harbour. 

Abbeville was of sufficient importance under Hugh Capet to receive 
a girdle of ramparts , and it was the rendezvous for the leaders of the 
llrst two crusades. At the marriage of Eleanor of Castile to Edward I. 
in 1272 it passed to England, and it remained with little interruption 
under English dominion for nearly 200 years. After a short period under 
the dukes of Burgundy it fell finally to France in 1477. In 1514 the 
marriage of Louis XII. with Mary Tudor, sister of Henry VIII., was cele- 
brated at Abbeville^ and in ld27Wol8ey and Francis I. signed here their 
ani..c. H»l».t Ch.rle» V. Digi,,zsd b, GoOgk 




e parlVil^M' l; DiA>es .Ld^pcig. 


zed by Google 

to Amiens. ABBEVILLE. 7. Route. 13 

The Chuboh op St. Vulpran (PI. B, 4) is a Gothie edifice of 
the 15th and 16th cent., completed in the 17th cent, on a smallei 
scale. The handsome *Fa^ade has two towers terminating in plat- 
forms, and three portals in the Renaissance style, with richly decor- 
ated doors. The exterior of the nave is adorned with elegant but- 
tresses and two open galleries with balustrades. The windows are 
surmounted by truncated gables. To the N. is a tower adjoining a 
wall, which was intended, according to the original plan, to form 
part of the transept. 

The effect of the interior is much less pleasing than that of the ex- 
terior. The nave is narrow, and the arches, injured by the sinking of 
the foundations, have required to be extraneously supported. Contrary 
to the usual rule, the choir is the least ancient part, dating from the 
17th century. The rich triforium in the Flamboyant style is remarkable. 
The first two chapels on the left have fine stone altar- screens (16th centl), 
and the third chapels on each side contain good sculptures (15-16th cent.). 
The Chapel) e de Notre Dame des Mercierp, at the end of the S. aisle, con- 
tains an altar of the Virgin with a representation of the Assumption (1860). 
The altar at the end of the choir has a curious antependium (late 14th cent.) 

Sainted on a gold ground. Opposite the door of the sacristy is a Glori- 
cation of the Virgin painted on glass (1525). 

The Hdtel'Dieu (PI. B, 4, 5), behind the church, partly dates 
from the 14- 15th centuries. — The Place de V Amiral - Courbet 
(PI. B, C, 4), farther on, is embellished with a monument to Ad- 
miral Courbet (1827-85), who was a native of the town, by Falgui^re 
and Merci6. — Lesueur, the composer (1760-1837), who was bom 
near Abbeville, is commemorated by a bronze statue, by Rochet, 
in the Place St. Pierre (PI. C, 3). 

In the public garden at the end of this Place is the Muaie d'Ab- 
beviUe et du Ponthieu (PI. C, 3; open on Thurs., Sun., and holidays, 
12 to 4 or 5 j adm. daily, 10-4, on application), containing natural 
history collections, paintings, engravings, sculptures, etc. The Public 
Library (PI. C, 3; open daily, except Sat. & holidays, 10-12 & 2-4), 
in an adjoining building, contains 47,000 vols, and 342 MSS. — 
The Eglise du 8t. SSpulere (PI. C, D, 3), to the left from the Place 
St. Pierre, dates from the 15th century. 

The Rue Boucher-de-Perthes, the second on the left as we quit 
the Place de VAmiral-Courbet by the Rue St. Gilles, is called after 
the learned geologist and antiquarian of that name (1788-1868), 
whose house, in this street, is now occupied by the Musie Boucher- 
de-Perthes (PI. 1 J C, 4), consisting of antiquities and a collection of 
1600 small paintings of the French, Flemish, and Dutch schools, 
many of doubtful authenticity (adm. as to the preceding Mus^e). 

The church of St OHUb (PI. D, 5), at the end of the Rne 
St. Gilles, possesses a beautiful Flamboyant portal restored in 1863. 

The Monts dt Caubert, to the S. of Abbeville, were the site of an 
immense Roman camp, capable of accommodating 14 legions, no trace of 
which, however, now remains. 

Fbok Abbsvillb to BAthdhe , 58»/2 M., railway in 2V4-3V2 hrs. (fares 
10 fr. 66, 7 fr. 10. 4 fr. 65 c). — The line crosses the railway to Amiens, 
and skirts the ramparts on the S.£. side of Abbeville, near St. Gilles. — 

14 RouU 1 . CRlSCY. From Calais 

71/2 M. St. Eiqnier (S6t. de VAnge-OabrielL an ancient town, wat form- 
erly highly celebrated for ita abbey, which was founded by St. Biqnier 
in 646 and enjoyed the special favour of Dagobert, Charlemagne, and 
Hugh Oapet. It haa, however, never recovered from its frequent de- 
struction at the hands of Kormans, Burgundians, French, Germans, 
and English. In 1586 a determined attack on the town by the troops 
of Oharles V. was valorously repulsed, chiefly through the bravery of 
the women. One heroine, named Becqu(£toillfr, is said to have captured 
a hostile flag with her own hands. The abbey was rebuilt after a fire 
in the 18th cent. ; it is now occupied by a seminary and is comparatively un- 
interesting. The adjoining Church of St. Riquier is, however, a most not- 
able example of Gothic architecture in the 15-16th centuries. The facade 
and W. tower are lavishly adorned with sculpture , though the soft nature 
of the stone has unfortunately withstood the ravages of the weather very 
poorly. The vaulting of the interior deserves speeial notice, as do also 
some of the statues, the font, the bas-reliefs on the walls, the ohoir-st^ls, 
and the high-altar , with a large wooden statue of Christ by Girardon. 
The Salle de la Tr^sorerie is adorned with ten frescoes from the life of 
St. Biquier, with inscriptions in old French, and with a kind of Dance 
of Death, entitled Hhe Three Dead and the Three Living' (16th cent.). 
The treasury is still rich. 

19Vs M. Auxi-U-Chdteau (H^t. St. Martin), a snuOl town on the Authie, 
with the scanty ruins of a chftteau. — 28Vs H. Frivnt; 88V3 M. St. Pol, For 
these two stations and the connecting railway, see p. 22. 42 M. BrUu is 
the junction for Bully-Grenay (p. 18). The railway now descends the 
valley of the Clarenco. Beyond (57 H.) Fouquereuil we join the Calais and 
Arras line, 'IV4 M. on this side of Bithune (p. 18). 

Fbom Abbeville to Dompikebk-sub-Authib (Cr^cy), IS'/a M., local rail- 
way joining the branch from Noyelles (p. 12) at (107s H.) Foreit-VAVbaye. 
It then traverses the Forett of Criey to (15 M.; li/s hr. from Abbeville; 
2 fr. 70, 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 60 c.) Or^cy-en-Fonthieu (adtel du Canoii-d* Or), a 
hamlet famous for the victory won on Aug. 26th, 1346, by Bdward III. of 
England over Philip of Valois, King of France. The English forces could 
not have numbered more than 26,(X)0, while the French army was about 
100,000 strong, but the want of discipline among the haughty French 
nobles contributed largely to the defeat. The slaughter was very great. 
Froissart says that 11 princes, 80 bannerets , 1200 knights, and 90,000 foot- 
men were slain on the French side. One of the eleven princes was the 
blind King John of Bohemia, whose crest (the now familiar ^Prince of 
Wales's Feathers') and motto (*ich dien') were adopted by Edward, the 
Black Prince, who commanded the first division of the English. — 
A monument in the village commemorates John of Bohemia; and the 
battle-field, li/s M. to the E., is marked by an ancient cross CCroix de 
BohSme^. The wind-mill, whence Edward III. watched the battle, on a 
UtUe hill, about Vs M. to the N.E. of the station, existed until late in the 
19th century. 

Another branch-line runs from Abbeville to (28 M.) Eu (p. 36) and 
joins the line to L« Triport (p. 37). 

7972 M. Poni-Remy, a large industrial village, witb a castle, 
dating in part from the 14tb or 15tb cent., wbicb played an im- 
portant part in tli6 Hundred Years* War witb England. — 86 M. 
Longpri (H6t. Prevost-Louchet). Tbe Camp de VEtoiU, 2i/2 M. to 
the E.N.E., is perhaps the most Interesting Roman camp in France. 

Fbom LonofbA to Lb Tb^pobt, 34 M., railway in IV2-2S/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 
50, 4 fr. 40, 2 fr. 86 c). — 4V2 M. Airaines (Hfit. de PEcu-de-France). on the 
river of the same name, has two interesting churches. About 3 H. to the 
W. of (121/2 M.) Oisemont is the large Cffidteau de RambureSy a well-preserved 
mediae val stronghold. At (25 M.) Longrop-Oamaehes we join the line to 
Le Tr^port vift Beauvais (p. 36). 

The branch-railway from Longpri to (11 M.) CanapUt joins here the 

to Amiem. ST. OMER. 1 . Route. 15 

line from Amiens to Doullens, etc. (p. 23). Near (7 M.) St-Liger-Ut-Domart, 
on this branch-line, is Berteaucotirt-les-Dametj with a Romanesque abbey- 
church containing interesting sculptures. 

We pass under the line to Canaples. — 89 M. Hangest-sur- 
8omme. — 93 M. Picquigny (H6t. du Commerce), with a rained 
castle of the 16th century. About 1^/4 M. to the N.E. lies the Roman 
Camp de Tirancourt or Chrand-Fort, 

96 M. Ailly-8ur-8omme; 97V2 M. Dreuil-lh- Amiens. The line 
now emerges from the valley of the Somme. — IOOV2 M. 8t. Boch, 
a snbuiban station for Amiens (p. 24). Traversing two short tunnels, 
and a cutting, we now skirt the S. side of (102 M.) Amiens (p. 24). 

b. ViA Hazebrouck and Arras. 
iSKflh M. (122V4 M. from the Gare Maritime). Railway in 4-7V8 hrs. 
(fares 21 fr. 95, 14 fr. 85, 9 fr. 80 c. or 22 fr. 80, 15 fr. 5, 9 fr. 75 c). 

Calais, see p. 3. — IV4 M. Les Fontinettes (p. 5); 21/2 M. Pont- 
de-Cotdogne; 5^2 ^- ^^^ Attaques. — The line diverges from that 
vi4 Boulogne, crosses the Canal de Guines, skirts the canal from 
Ardres to Gravelines, and crosses that from St. Omer to Calais. 
To the left is the Pont Sans-Pareil, a bridge built in 1752, with four 
branches spanning the two last-named canals. — 772 ^- Pont- 
d^ Ardres (E.6t. Dodanthun), whence a diligence plies to (3 M.) the 
little town of Ardres, which has another station on the railway from 
Calais to Anvin (p. 22). I2V2 M. Audruicq, - 19V2 M. Watten- 
Eperlecques for Watten (H6t. de la Tete-d'Or). 

A branch-railway runs from this station to (13 H.) Qraveline* (p. 40), 
joining the line from Dunkirk to Calais at (9V2 ^0 Bourbourg (p. 40). 

A marshy district, intersected by numerous canals, is now traversed. 

26 M. St. Omer. — Hotels. Hdx. dd Ookmsbob, Rue Henri-Dupuis 4, 
near the basilica, d^j. or D. 3 fr. ; de Fkanok, Grande Place 26, B. from 2Vs^ 
B. «/4, d^j. 3, D. 3, pens. 8, omn. V^fr-i d^s Votagbubs, Bue du St. 8€- 
pulcre. — Oaf^B, in the Grande Place. Bukfftt at the station. — Post k 
Telegraph Offtee, Bue Garnot 64. 

8t, Omer is an industrial and commercial town with 20,993 in- 
hab., and a fortress until recently, situated in a marshy district on 
the Aa, which joins the Canal de Neuf-Foss^ near the station. 

Founded in the 7th cent, by St. Audomare or Omer, Bishop of Thdrouanne 
(p. 11), the town long formed part of Flanders, and was often besieged, pil- 
laged, and burnt. It, however, successfully resisted two attacks by the 
English (1337 and 1339) and no less than eight by the French. Louis XIV. 
captured the town in 1677, since which date it has belonged to France. 

Leaving the station, we cross the Canal de Neuf-Foss^, and 
enter the town by the Rue de TArsenal, on the site of the former 
Porte de Lyzel. A little farther on we pass the arsenal and a square 
with a bronze statue of Jacqueline Robins, a heroine of 1710, re- 
sembling Jeanne Hachette of Beauvais (p. 33). Farther on are the 
ruins of 8t, Berlin, the sole relic of the powerful abbey founded in 
640 by St. Bertin , a monk of Lnxeuil. These consist of a huge 
tower, 190 ft. high, and nine arches, which belonged to a church 
begun in 1326 and finished in 1520, on a site previously occupied 

16 Route 1. ST. OMER. From Calais 

by two earlier churches. Childeric III. died in this abbey after 752, 
and Thomas Becket also fonnd a temporary asylum here on his way 
to Pontigny in 1164. 

The long Rue St. Bertin leads hence to the centre of the town, 
passing, on the left, the College 8t, Bertin^ and, farther on, the Coste 
Military Hospital, a building erected after yarious fires (the last in 
1826) on the site of a college founded in 1592 by English Jesuits 
for the training of the Roman Catholic youth of Great Britain. 
Dr. Alban Butler (d. 1773), author of *Lives of the Saints', was 
director of this institution , and Daniel O'Connell was one of its 
most famous pupils. On the right, beyond the Soua-Ptifecturey is 
the Church of 8t. Denis, rebuilt in the 18th cent., but still retain- 
ing its original tower of the 13th. 

The *Church of Notre-Dame, a large and handsome building dating 
chiefly horn the 13-15th cent., lies to the left, beyond the end of 
the Rue St. Bertin. It has a massive W. tower (165 ft. high) and 
four portals, of which the most elaborate is that on the S., with a 
tympanum adorned with a Last Judgment. 

Intebiob. The chapels which fringe the nave are enclosed by heavy 
screens of the i7th and 18th centuries. In the S. aisle is a group of the 
iSth cent., representing Christ between the Virgin and 8t. John, known as 
the 'Grand Dieu de Thirouanne' because it was brought from the cathedral 
of that town (p. 11) in 1553. The same aisle contains a Descent from the 
Cross by Ri^)ens, spoiled by restoration. In the nave, to the left, is the 
tomb of St. Omer, with bas-reliefs dating from the 13th cent. \ and to the 
right, the tomb of Eustache de Croy (d. 1638), Bishop of Arras, with vary 
interesting statue and ornamentation. The organ-loft,, restored since its 
erection in 1717, deserves attention. The pulpit and the confessionals are 
excellent specimens of wood-carving. In the third chapel on the right: 
0. de Crajfer, Job; in the fourth, A. de Vuu, St. Aldegonda receiving her 
nun's veil from heaven. On the same side, farther on, are some good 
modern reliefs. In the ChapelU Notre Dame des Miraclee, in the S. tran- 
sept, is a large gilded altar (18th cent.) which is surmounted by a wooden 
figure of the Virgin, executed in the 12th century. On the right is a paint- 
ing of St. George and the dragon, by Ziegler; and opposite the altar is 
Christ before Pilate, a large canvas by Van Opstal. Above the latter are 
three small high reliefs, painted and gilded. On the right side of the choir- 
screen (reliefs) is a painting by Van Dyck (^Bender unto Ceesar the thinga 
that are Caesar's") and near it, on one of the pillars, an ex-voto offerine 
of Dean De Lalaing (d. 1533), consisting of a bas-relief in alabaster and 
stone, representing the Hebrew Children in the Fiery Furnace. Opposite is 
a fine painting with side wings ; and opposite the apsidal chapel is the ex- 
voto of Delibourg, Christ descending from the Cross to the altar during a 
celebration of the Communion. Adjoining the left side of the choir-screen 
are an archaic (perhaps Byzantine) bas-relief and the tomb of St. Erkem- 
bode (7th or 8th cent.). The X. transept contains monuments and coloured 
and gilded reliefs, a clock of the 16th cent., and a group of the (3rucifizion. 
In the chapel to the right are some interesting 13th cent, slabs. 

The Rue Henri-Dupuis conducts us from the chief portal to the 
Orande Place via the flsh-maiket, in which, to the left, is the small 
Music Henri'Dupuis (miscellaneous curiosities). In the Grande 
Place rise the old H6tel du BailUage (18th cent.), now a savings 
bank, and the Hdtel de Ville, a modem edifice, which also contains 
the Theatre and the Musie de PeirUure (chiefly Flemk^ paintings of 

Digitized by VnOOk 

to Amiens. HAZEBROUCK. /. RouU. 17 

minor importance; open on the 1st Sun. in each month, 12-4, on 
other days on application). A street parallel to the fish-market 
(see p. 16) leads Arom the Hotel de Yille to the Place Victor-Hugo, 
at the beginning of the Rne Oarnot. The former Hdtel Oolbert 
(1765), Rue Carnot 14, contains the Mus^e Arehiologique (open 
on Suu. & holidays 2-4 or 5 ; on other days on application). — Some 
distance to the left of the Rue Gamot is the Church of St. SeptUcrey 
a huilding of the 13-14th cent, with a tower and spire 170 ft. high. 
In the interior is an Entombment by Gasp, de Grayer. 

About IS/4 M. to the S.E., on the Canal de Keuf-Foasd, is the Asoensear 
des Fontinettes or d* Argues (station, p. 10), a remarkable hydraulic lift, 
eonstracted in 1888-88, hy means of which canal-boats are enabled to avoia 
flye locks and thus to shorten their journey yery considerably. The structure 
consists mainly of two enormous metal caissons, containing sufficient water 
to float the boatt, and so connected that when one is filled or emptied the 
other rises or falls owing to the difiference in weight. The difference of 
leyel thus surmounted is about 40 ft. At the top the caissons are connected 
with a canal carried oyer the railway. 

The DiBBOT Limb from St. Omer to (161/2 M.) Berguette (see below) is 
51/s M. shorter than the railway via Hazebrouck , but is not traversed by 
trains for Arras. It runs \ii (ISJ/a M.) Aire-sur-la-Lys (Hdt. de la Clef 
d'Or: d'AngMenre)^ a town with 1999 inhab., on the Ly$y with an inter- 
estiiffc church {8t. Pierre-^ 15-18th cent.), an HOtel de ViUe of the 18th cent., 
and the handsome Hdtel du BaiUiage or Corpe de Oarde of the 16th cent- 
ury. — From Aire to Berck via Montreuil-sur-Mer, see p. 11. 

From St. Omer to Boulogne^ see p. 10. 

Near (30 M.) Renescwe the line to Boulogne (p. 10) diverges 
to the right 

371/2 M.Ha«ebrouck(Bt«/fet-HdtcI, H6U du Nord, du Faucon, all 
at the station), with 12,819 Inhab., on the Bourre, is an important 
railway-junction , at the intersection of lines to Arras , Dunkirk 
(p. 37), LiUe (p. 52), Calais, and Ypres. The Church of St. Eloi 
(16th cent.) has an elegant and conspicuous tower, 260 ft. high. 

Fbom Hazbbbouck to Ypbes, I9V2M., railway in I-IV4 br. (fares 2 fr. 96. 
2 fr. 20, 1 fr. 60 c). — 7V< M. Oodewaersvelde, the last French station, is 
situated at the foot of the Mont des Cats, on which is a modern convent 
of Trappist monks. The night may be spent in the convent, and the 
following day devoted to excursions to the Moni Xoir and the Mont de Lilhy 
sandy and wooded hills on the Belgian frontier. — At (9V2 M.) Abeele. the 
first Belgian station, the custom-house examination is made. — 1972 M. 
Fprea (Hdt. de la Ch^tellenie; de TEp^e - Ruyale), with a very interesting 
cathedral and cloth-hall. See Baedeher^s Belgium and Holland. 

Branch-lines run from Hazebrouck to (8V2 M.) MervUle, and to (21 M.) 
Hondtchoote (p. 41), vi^ Steenteoorde^ Rexpoide, etc. 

Beyond (41 1/2 M.) Steenbccque the train skirts the Forest of 
Nieppe, 44 M. Thier^nes. Two canals are crossed. — From (47 M.) 
Berguette a branch-line runs to (8V2 M.) EstrSe-Blanehe. 

From Berguette to Armentihresy see p. 66; to 8t. Omer^ see above. 

51 M. Lillera (H6t. du Commerce), with 7993 Inhab. , has a 
curious church in the Transition style. Artesian wells derive their 
name from the district of Artois , where the earliest (still pointed 
out; 65 ft. deep) is said to have been sunk at Lillers in the 12th or 
13th century. — At (57 M.) Fouquereuil the railway to Abbeville 
diyeiges to the right (p. 14). 

Babobkbb's Northern France. 5th Edit. Digitized by d-DOQlC 

18 Route 1. LENS. From Calaii 

5872^* Bithnne (Hotel du Nord; Lion d'Or), a manufacturing 
and commercial town with 13,607 inhab., is situated at the junction 
of two canals. It was the capital of an ancient barony and was one 
of the fortresses of Artois. The peace of Utrecht united it to France 
in 1713. The chief objects of interest are the Belfry^ of the 14th cent^ 
iand the Church of 8t. Vaaatj of the 16th cent., with columns of the 
13th century. — Railway to Lille, see p. 60; to Abbeville, see p. 13. 
Steam-tramway to (11 M.) Estaires. 

62 M. Noeux, — 66 M. BuUy-Orenay has important coal-mines. 

Branch-railways run hence to (W/t M.) Brias (St. Pol and Abbeville; 
p. 14) and to (6 M.) Violainet (p. 60). 

70 M. Lens (Orand-Hdtel; H6t. des Voyageurt; du Commerce; 
deFLandre; Buffet-Hdtel), an ancient town with 27,744 inhab., 
situated on the iSouchet or DeHle^ was formerly fortified, and was 
frequently captured in the wars of the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries. 
Gond^ gained an important victory over the Spaniards in the neigh- 
bourhood in 1648. Lens lies at the centre of the coal-fields of the 
Pas-de-Galais, which have an area of 200sq.M. and yield 15,000,000 
tons of coal per annum, employing 25,000 hands. 

From Lens a branch-railway runs to (SaVi M., in I'/i-l*/* hr.) Jbrmm- 
Hhru (p. 65) vi& Bauwin^Provin^ Don-Sainghin. and Wavrin^ and another to 
(12V« M. in V* ^r.) Libereowt (p. 50). The latter forks at (6 M.) H4nin- 
Liitard^ an ancient town with 16,016 inhab., the one branch leading to 
Libercourt (p. 60), and the other proceeding vi& (4>/2 M.) Courri^M, the 
church of which contains a magnitlcent om of one of Uie Montmorency 
family, and O^h ^0 Carwin (Gygoe; Laloux de Rome), an industrial town 
with 10,736 inhab. (p. 60), to (10 M.) Bauvin- Pterin (see above). 

Another local line runs from Lens to (33Vs M.) Frivent (p. 22) via 

Near (76 M.) Farbus-Vimy the railway to Libercourt diverges to 
the left (see above). The line now traverses the valley of the Scarpe 
by means of a viaduct and embankments, and joins the railway from 
Douai before reaching Arras. 

82 M. Arras. — Hotels. Udr. de l'Umivbbs (PI. a; D, 3), Place de 
la Croix-Bonge 3, with garden, B. 8-6, d^j. 31/2, !>• S>/4, pens. 9>/s-12, 
omn. 1/2 fr., well spoken of; du Commerck (PI. b; E« 3), Kue Gambetta27, 
E. from 2Vit d^j. 3, D. SVsfr. ; do Pbtit-8t-Pol (Pi. ci D, 8), Place du 
Theatre 19, B. 2, d^. 8, D. 8V< fr. ~ Oafes in the Place du Th^&tre; Buffet- 
mta (d<). or D. 8 fr., snack I1/2 fr.) at the station. — Post Office (PI. E, 4), 
Eue Gambetta 40. — Oabt. Per drive for 1-2 pers. 80 c, 3-4 pers. IVsfr-i 
per hour !»/« or 2V« fr. 

Arr<Uj formerly fortified, with 24,921 inhab., situated on the 
right bank of the Scarpe^ the ancient capital of ArtoU^ is now the 
chief town of the department of Poi^de^CalaiB^ and the seat of a 
bishop. Its grain-trade is very considerable. 

Arras was the capital of the Gallic tribe of the Atrehatet, under the 
name of Nemeiacum or Nemetoemna. It seems to have been famous for its 
woollen cloth as early as the 4th century. In the middle ages the tapestry- 
hangings of Arras had a high reputation, and many of them are still 
preserved, especially in England, where the name of the town itself was 
used as their common name. The manufacture has long been extinct. 
The town followed the fortunes of the Pays d' Artois, of which it was the 
capital, passing through many bands before its final incorporation with 


zed by Google 

to Amienf. ABRAS. /. Route. 19 

France in 1640. After the battle of Agincourt (1415) the English and French 
signed the treaty of peace at Arras. The Peace of Arras, in 1482, marks 
an epoch in French history, determining the N. frontier of France at the 
expense of the feudal state of Burgundy. — Arras was the birthplace of 
Mciximaim Rohupimre (175&-94) and his younger brother Jos^h (1763-94), 
and of Joseph Lebon^ originally a eur^, who organized the ^Terror^ in Arras 
and distinguished himself by his cruelties. 

The Station (PI. E, F, 4), in the new quarter that has sprung up 
since the demolition of the fortifications, stands at one end of a broad 
thoroughfare traversing the town under various names (Rue Gam> 
betta. Rue Ernestale, Rue St. Anhert, etc.). On the left side of the 
Rue Gambetta rise the Post Office (PI. E, 4) and, farther on, the 
Chapelle des Vrsulines (PI. E, 3, 4; now a girls* school), in the 
Transition style (1866), with a pretty tower built in Imitation of the 
smaller tower of La Sainte Ghandelle, which formerly adorned the 
Petite Place. We reach the latter Place and the H6tel de Ville by 
the Rue St. G^ry, which leads to the right a little farther on. 

The Petite Place (PI. E, 3) and the Grande Place (PI. E, F, 2, 3), 
united by the broad Rue de la T^illerie in the same style, are curious 
relics of the period of Spanish domination, in the 17th century. 
Both are surrounded with uniformly built houses, with arcades be- 
low, supported by monolithic sandstone columns, and curious gables 
above. No. 49, Grande Place, dates from the 14th century. Beneath 
the Grande Place and other parts of the town are huge subterranean 
magazines and cellars, originally quarries and known as 'boves'. 

The ♦H6tel de VUle (PI. E, 3), in the Petite Place, built in 
the 16th cent, by Jacques Caron and restored in the 19th cent., is 
one of the handsomest in the N. of France, with a line Gothic facade, 
rising upon seven arches of different sizes. The lateral facades are 
in an elaborate Renaissance style; that on the N. is modem. The 
two large saloons on the first floor contain Gothic wood-carving and 
large chimney-pieces. The graceful Belfry (1463-1654), which ter- 
minates in a crown, is 246 ft. high. The 'Banclocque' or *Joyeuse', 
the largest bell, dates from 1728 and weighs nearly 9 tons. 

The church of St. Jean Baptisie (PI. £, 3; 1565-84), near the Petite 
Place, contains a Descent from the Cross attributed to Rubens, and an 
Assumption attributed to Phil, de Ohampaigne. 

A little beyond the H6tel de Yille are the extensive buildings 
of the former Abbey of St. Vaaat (PI. D, 2), entirely rebuilt in 
the 18th cent, and now occupied by the Mus^e. The Garden is 
embellished with bronze busts of eminent natives of Arras. 

The ICuBie, including a gallery of paintings and an archaeological 
collection, occupies most of the groundfloor on the N.W. or garden 
side (see below). The public are admitted (10-1 and 2-6) every 
Sun. from April to Sept., and on the first Sun. of each month during 
the rest of the year (entr. from the garden); for adm. on other days 
visitors apply to the concierge, at the large portal in the Place de 
la Madeleine (entr. from the court, see p. 20 ; gratuity). 

Oronnd Floor. From the Vestibdlb (entered from the garden), which 
contains casts, we turn to the right to the Salon Gabb&. !24. Bonvin., 

2» - 

20 Route I, ARRAS. From CtUaia 

Tavern-interior; J. Bpetony 31. Misery and despair, 85- Repose; 61. R. ColHn, 
Idyl; 64. Corotf Morning e&ect; 82. £vff. Delacroix^ Mlurtyrdom of St. Stephen; 
96. Diaty Odalisques; 174. Bewon Oirardy Portrait of the artist; 188 B4douit»y 
An Arab mill; 207. Monchdblon^ The Roche Verte; 236. Le JtouXy Before 
the burial; 296. RoUrt Fleury^ Leda; 560. Em. Breton, Before the storm. — 
Grande Qalerib. 17. Berthon, During mass; Em, Breton, 82. Hurricane, 
33. Night; 42. Callot, Ariadne; 47. Carrier-Betleuse, Asphalt workers; 
51. Ghigot, St. Josse; 0. CoK» (of Arras), 55. Bull-fiiht, 56. Bar of Bidassoa; 
76. Damojfet Landscape; 85. Demont, The^Flood; 119. Duhem, End of the 
day; 158. Feyen-Perrin, Women of Gancale; 170. Oelhayy Before the magi- 
sirate? 172. GinoU, Eustache de St. Pierre (see p. 4); 177. Gtaiee, Human 
folly; 234. H. Livy, Joash after his escape from the massacre; 244. Marecy 
The grandmother; 313. Sebron, Interior of Vienna cathedral; 322. Taite- 
grain, Louis XI. entering Paris; 366. Tvon, Ceesar; Ziegler, 870. Death of 
the Doge Fuscari, 371. Henri IV and Margaret of Valois. — The following 
Thbeb Booms contain chiefly works by Donere (19 os. 97-111) and other 
painters of Artois. — We return to the Grande Galerie, quit it to the right, 
and find ourselves opposite the entrance to the Mus^e from the Place (see 
p. 19). — On the light are the two Saixes Constant Dutillbdx, with 
works by that painter (1807-65) and his pupils. On the left are the Salle 
DE8 Dessins, and two other Booms containing paintings. — From the 
vestibule bevond we enter the Boom to the Bight. 25. Both, Italian 
landscape; ?S6.''VelvtC Brueghel, The Earthly Paradise; ISO. Van Seemikereky 
Tavern-scene; 236. J.B. Vanloo (?), Portrait of Louis XV.; 260. P. Nee/t, 
Church-interior; 280. Battano, Family-concert; 317,318. Snyders, Hunting- 
scenes; 351. Verbrttggen, Children adorning a statue of Pan; 353. Vermeyen, 
Entombment. — Sallb Gollabd. 249. Van der Meulen, Passage of the 
Rhine; 281, 282. Pourbus (?), 293. Rigaud (?), Portraits; 364. Wouverman, 
Battle. — Salon Italies. 3B. Van den Broeck, Last Judgment; 49. Ph. de 
Champaigne 0), Portrait; 70. Van Craetbeeci, Card-players; 73. De Grayer (1), 
Tobias and the angel; 152, 153. Van E$sen, Still-life; 154. Fahritiua, The 
three angels visiting Abraham; 178. Ooltziue, The golden age; 185. Fran* 

Love-oflFering, 359. Sacrifice to Priapus. 

We next enter the Cloistebs, which are devoted to the Archaeological 
Collection of sculptures and architectonic fragments, etc. The gallery to 
the left contains drawings, plaster casts after the antique, and a large 
wooden model of the cathedral (see below). 

From the vestibule staircases ascend to the upper floors. On the 
First Floor are miscellaneous collections and the Salle Abbageoisb con- 
taining objects of local interest. On the Second Floor are a Natural History 
Colleelion and an Industrial Museum. 

In the same building are preserved the Library (47,700 vols., 209 in- 
cunabula, 2482 MSS.; open Mon.-Frid., 1012 A 2-4) and the Archives Di- 

The Cathedral (PI. D, 2), at the N.E. angle of the abbey-build- 
ings, was bnilt in 1755-1833 to succeed the old abbey-church. It 
contains some good paintings, Including a Descent f^om the Cross 
and an Entombment, attributed respectively to Rubens and Van 
Dyck (both in the ambulatory of the choir), and three small triptychs 
and a fine Head of Christ In the N. transept. In the S. transept is 
a St. Bernard supplicating inspiration from heaven, by Van Thulden. 
The high- altar is adorned with a bas-relief in gilded bronze. One 
of the chapels contains a Madonna by Cortot, and two modern 
monuments of bishops. 

Almost opposite the main door of the museum fgi^e p. 19) opens 

Digitized by VnOO^ 

to Amiens. ALBERT. /. Route. 21 

the Rue dee Rapporteurs, No. 6 in which (PI. 2 ; D, 3) was once in- 
habited by Robespierre. The Rne St. Aabert, on the right, leads to 
the Hdpital 8t. Jean (PI. C, D, 2), In front of which is a Statue of 
Ahh£ HaUvin (1820-95), distinguished for his charity. At the end 
of the Rue St. Anbert rises the FounUiin of Neptune (Pi. 1 : 0, 2); 
tiience the Rue Bandimont leads on to the town-gate, which formed 
part of the old ramparts. To the W. of the Rue St. Aabert is the 
Fiih Market {V\, C, 3). — The streets running parallel with the bar- 
racks lead to the Bouleyard Grespel and to the Promenades (PI. B, 4), 
with their fine trees. Beyond these is the Citadel (PI. A, 4), con- 
structed by Yauban in 1670-74, surnamed 'La Belle-Inutile', and 
now partly dismantled. 

A branch-railway runs from Arras to (3d M.) Doulltm (p. 23). — From 
Arras to Boulbgn€, see pp. 11, 10; to Douai and Valenciennes^ pp. 41-46. 

Beyond Arras the lines to Doullens and St. Pol (p. 22) diverge 
to the right. From (87V2 M.^ Boisleux a branch -line runs to 
(28V2 M.) Camhrai (p. 62) vi& (16 M.) Marquion, — 94 M. Achiet. 

A branch-railway runs from Achiet to (20^/2 M.) Mareoing (Camhrai). 
— 41/2 M. Bapanme (Hot. de la Fleur), a small town of 2946 inhabitanls. 
A Statue of General Faidherbe (1818-89), by Louis-Noel, recalls the great 
battle of Jan. 3rd, 1871, as the result of which the Germans fell back be- 
hind the Somme. — IOV2 M. Vilu-Bertincourt. Branch to Ep^hy (p. 82). — 
2OV7 H. Mareoing, see p. 62. 

97 M. Miraun.ont,' 100 M. Beaucourt-Hamel. — 105 M. Albert 
(Hot, des Voyageurs ; de la Tete-de-Boeuf), an industrial town with 
7046inhab. on the Ancre, which forms here a pretty waterfall. The 
chuich of Notre - Dame ~ de ' Brebihres ^ recently restored, attracts 
numerous pilgrims. The village was called Ancre until the reign 
of Louis XIII., who presented it in 1617 to his favourite Charles 
d'Albert, Due de Luynes. 

Narrow-gauge lines run from Albert to the W. to (27 V2 M.) Doullens 
(p. 23); and to the E. via (26Va M.) Fironne (p. 61) to (48 M.) Ham (p. 64). 

115 M. Corbie (H$t. de la Paste; de la Marine; Restaurant 
Alexandre) f with 4424 inhab., was once celebrated for its Bene- 
dictine abbey, of which the Church ofSt, Pierre (16-18th cent.) still 
remains, though disfigured at the beginning of the 19th century. 
The imposing portal, with its two towers, is well seen from the 

The Somme is now crossed. — 117 M. Daours, at the con- 
fluence of the Somme and the Hallue. On the banks of the latter 
was fought the Battle of Pont-Noyelles, on Dec. 23rd, 1870, be- 
tween Manteuffel and Faidherbe, which compelled the latter to fall 
back on Arras. 

The canalized Somme is crossed. The line to Tergnier diverges 
to the left. — II7V2 M. Longueau^ where passengers to or from 
Amiens change carriages, as the through-trains between Arras and 
Paris do not run into Amiens station (see p. 41). 

I2OV2 M. Amiens, see p. 24. 


zed by Google 

22 Route 1. ST. POL. From Calais 

c. VU Anvin, St. Pol, Freve&t, and OouUens. 
113 M. Railway in lO/i hra. (fares about 19 fr. 90, 14 fr. 56, 10 fr. 36 c). 
There are no throagh-trains or through-tickets on this route, as the narrow- 
gauge line from Calais to ^Vz ^O ^^*if^ does not belong to the Gompagnie 
du Nord. 

The trains start at Calais-Saint' Pierre, see p. 3. — 1/2 M. Calaii- 
Fontinettes, At (2 M.) Couhgne the line to Paris via Boulogne 
diverges to the right, and the line to Arras to the left. 

6V2 M. Gnlnes (VilU de Calais), a town with 4407 inhab., 
formerly the capital of the Comtes de Guinea and at one time fort- 
ified, is connected with Calais by a canal and by a tramway (p. 3). 
To the S. extends a large forest. Gutnes was taken by the English 
in 1352 and held by them for 200 years. 

7V2M. Andres. — 8V2M. Balinghem was the scene in 1620 of the 
famous meeting of the Field of the Cloth of Gold between Henry VIII., 
who had taken up his abode at Gutnes, and Francis I. of France, who 
lodged at Ardres. The interview was so named from the lavish magni- 
ficence with which the two kings entertained each other. 

IOV2 ^* Ardres (H6t. Debruyne ; du Gheval-Blanc), a small town, 
formerly fortified, lies about 3 M. from the railway between Calais 
and Arras (p. 15). — At (I8V2 M.) Bonningues the railway is joined 
by the line from Boulogne (p. 10), and at (31 M.) Lumbres it crosses 
the line from Boulogne to St. Omer (p. 10) and enters the valley 
of the Aa. — 38V2 M. Merck-St- Liivin has a fine church of the 
13th, 16th, and 17th centuries. Beyond (4072 ^0 Fauquembergues, 
a small town with a fine church of the 12th, 13th, and 15th cent., 
we quit the valley of the Aa. — 441/2 M. Rimeux- Ooumay is the 
junction of the Montreuil-Berck line (p. 11). 

49 M. FrageB (H6t. du Cheval-Noir; de la Oare)^ an ancient 
place (3020 inhab.). To Montreuil and to Aire-sur-la-Lys, see p. 11. 

About 8Vs M. to the S. of Fruges, and as far to the V.W. of the sta- 
tion of Blangy-sur-Ternoise (p. 11), lies Aginoourt or Azineourt, famous 
for the victory won by Henry V. over the French, on Oct. 25th, 1415. The 
Knglish troops numbered about 9000; the French not less than 50,000. 

The Chateau of Radinghsm, 8 M. to the N. of Fruges, together with 
its art-collections, was bequeathed to the town in 1907 as a public museum. 

At (58V2 M.) Anvin, the junction of the line to Boulogne 
(p. 11), the narrow-gauge line ends. 62V2 M. Wavrans. 

641/2 M. Bt. Pol (285 ft. ; Buffet; H6t, d* Angleterre), a town with 
3970 inhab., situated on the Ternoise, suffered severely in the wars 
of the 16th cent, and did not finally pass to France until the treaty 
of the Pyrenees in 1659. 

Lines io Arrcu and Boulogne, see p. 11; to Bully-Orenay and Lent, p. 18. 

70 M. Petit' Houvin. The railway now quits the valley of the 
Ternoise for that of the Canche. — 741/2 M. FrAvent (H6t. d' Amiens), 
with 4755 inhab., is the junction of lines to Abbeville (p. 12) and to 
Lens (p. 18). The church of 8t. Vaast dates partly from the 15th 
century. — Beyond (8OV2 M.) Bouquemaison the line descends 
towards the valley of the Authie. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

to Paria. CLERMONT. 1 . Route, 23 

86V2M. Doullens (175 ft.; H6t. des Quatre-FUs-Aymon), an 
industrial town with 6927 inhab., on the Aathie, is the centre of a 
considerable trade in phosphates. The Citcuiel is now used as a 
prison for women. — Branch-line to Albert^ see p. 21 ; to Arrof^ p. 21. 

On quitting DonUens the railway crosses the Authie, and beyond 
(88 M.) Oetaifj^court it begins to ascend as it leaves the y alley of t^t 
riyer. We then descend through the undulating and wooded valley 
of the Fieffe to (96 M.) CanapUs (branch to Longpre^ see p. 14). 
ifiO M. VignacoiM, an industrial village. — 103 M. Fle8$elU8. 

At NaauTiy 3Vs M. to the N., a aubterranean refuge was discovered 
io 1888, forming practically a village, with streets Vs M. in aggregate 
length, flanked with cbambers of varioos kinds. 

109^2 ^* Longpi^i-Ua- Amiens. The Somme is crossed, and the 
Oare dt 8U Roch passed. — 113 M. Amiens, see p. 24. 

n. From Amifmit to Paris, 
a. Via Oreil. 
8iVs M. Railwat in lVs-S>/4 hrs. (fares 14 fr. 76, 9 fr. 90, 6 fr. 46 c). 
The trains start from tbe Oare du Nord (PI. O, 4). 

At (3 M.) Longueau (buffet) the lines to Arras, Lille, etc. 
diverge to the left (p. 21). — 61/2 M. Boves (H6t. de la Paix), with 
a ruined castle on a hill to the right. (Railway to Compi^gne, see 
p. 70.) — The line follows the valley of the Noye, passing several 
peat-bogs. 12 M. AiUy-sur-Noye (H6t. de France), with a church 
partly of the 13th cent, containing a late 16th cent, tomb of Flemish 
workmanship. — 16 M. La Faloise. 

About I'/i M. to the 8.E. (carr. 2 fr.) is FoUeville, with a Chtarch 
(16th cent.) containing the tomb of Baoul de Lannoy (d. 1608), mainly 
by Antonio della Porta, and other interesting sculptures, and a ruined 
CcuUe of the same period, the watch-tower of which is still standing. 

The line here traverses a chalky district, belonging to the cal- 
careous system which begins in the 06te-d'0r, forms the Gham- 
- pagne district, passes into Picardy, and re-appears in the cliffs of the 
S. coast of England. — 22'/2 M. Breteuil-Oare is connected by a 
branch-line, 41/2 M. long, with the small town of Breteuil (2839 in- 
hab. •, Hot. du Commerce). — 261/2 M. Oannes. The railway now 
quits the basin of the Somme and enters that of the Seine. — 
3IV2M. Bt. Just or 8t. Just-en-ChaussSe (Croix d* Or; Cheval Blanc), 
vrith 2687 inhab., is named from its position at the intersection of 
two Roman roads. 

A branch-line runs hence to (10»/a M.) La Ru€-8t-PUrr; where it joins 
the line from Clermont to B$auvaii (see p. 24). Local lines run also to 
(14Y« M.) Estriei'StrDenU (p. 70) and (12i/« M.) Froiasy.- — Railway to Qwm' 
brat, etc., see B. 8b. 

401/2 M. Clermont {HUel 8t. Andri, Rue d*Amiens 6), a town 
with 5488 inhab. , is beautifully situated on a hill-slope, commanded 
by an ancient doi^jon, or keep. The Church of St. Samson dates from 
the 14-16th cent and contains fine stained glass of the 16th cent. 

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24 Route 2. AMIENS. Practical Notes. 

and wood-carvings of the 17tli century. The interesting Hdtel de 
Ville was built in 1320 by Charles IV. le Bel, and restored in 1887. 

A branch-railway runs from Clermont to (ITV^ ^') BeauvaiSy traversing 
the Forest of Hezy and passing (5 M.) La Ru€-St-Fietr$ (p. 28), BresUSy and 
(121/2 M.) Rochy- Condi (p. 32). — I71/2 M. Beawtaia. see p. 33. 

Another branch runs to (2iV2M.) Comp<^n« (p. 68), via {i^ltfA.) Ettrfet- 
St-StenU (p. 70). 

45^/2 M. Liancourt-Rantigny. Liaaoourt (Hoi, du Chemin-de'' 
Fer-dU'Nord), 8/4 M. to the E., an industrial town with 3924 in- 
hab., contains the rained chitean (17th cent.) of the dnkes of La^ 
rochefoncauld-Liancourt and a Statue of Duke Fridirie Alexandre 
(1747-1827), member of the Constituent Assembly in 1789, dis- 
tinguished for his philanthropy and for his encouragement of agri- 
culture. In the church are two interesting monuments. 

491/2 M. Creil. Thence to Paris, see pp. 68, 67. 

b. Via Beaavais. 

02 M. Eailwai in 3V«-5»/t hrs. (fares 16 fr. 70, 11 fr. 30, 7 fr. 90 c). 

On leaving the terminus at Amiens the train skirts the boulevards 
to the S. of the town, passing through two short tunnels and a cutting. 
11/4 M. 8L Roch, a suburb of Amiens (see below). Beyond (6 M.) 
Saleux we quit the line to Rouen (see p. 81). — Several small 
stations, including (I41/2 M.) Conty, the fine church of which, 
dating in part from the 15th cent., contains sculptures of the 15th 
and 16th centuries. — 251/2 M. Crhvecoeur-le-Orand (H6t. du Com- 
merce), with merino-manufactures. The railway descends as it pass- 
es ftom the basin of the Somme into that of the Seine. — 301/2^* 
Oudeuil. — 33 M. 8t, Omer-en-Giausaee. Line to Le Trtfport, see 
p. 35. — 39 M. Montmille^Fouquenies. MonlmiUe possesses a cur- 
ious church over a crypt, of the 9th and 12th centuries. 411/2 ^* 
St. Just'deS'Marais. The line now descends the right bank of the 
ThiraiUy which it crosses, leaving the lines to Goiirnay and Gisors 
(p. 35) on the right. 

43 M. Beauvais^ and thence to Paris, see pp. 33, 32. 

2. Amiens. 

Railway Stations. Oar$ du Nord or d* Noym (PI. G, 4; buffet), the 
chief stalion and general terminus for all trains. Qare St, Roch (PI. C, 4), 
to the E., where the lines' to Bouen and Beauvais diverge (p. 16 and above). 

Hotels. *HoTKL DU Bhim (PL b ; Q, 4), R. from 4, B. IVs, ddj. 3>/t, 

D. 4, pens, from 12, omn. */« f'M Oa.-HdT. db l'Umivbbs (PI. a; Q, 4), 
B. from, 4, B. IV3, d^i. 3, D. 4, pens, from 11, omn. */« fr-« both Rne de 
Noyon and Place Rene-Gk)blet ; *H6t. db Francb bt d^Anolbtbbbb (PI. c; 

E, F, 4), Rue de la R^publique 17, R. from 3, B. 1V», d^j. 3V«, D. 4, 
pens, from 12V«, omn. >/« fr« — lAot. db l'Ecd-db-Fkamce (PI. f? G, 4), 
Place Ren^-Goblet 61, R. from 3, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 8>/s, penn. from 10 fr., 
good ; Gic-HoT. M ODBBMK (PI. g ', G. 4), Esplanade de Moyon 4, R. from 3, 
B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 31^, pens, from 9*A fr.; Hdx. ou Commbbcb (PI. e; F, 4), 
Rue des Jacobins ^ R. from 3, B. li/i, d^j. 3, D. 3V<, pens. 8Vs, omn. 
1/2 fr.; HdT. DB Paris (PI. d; G, 4), Rue de Noyon 38, d<fj. 2V2, l>. 8 fr.; 


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History. AMIENS. 2. RouU. 25 

*H6t. de la Paix (PI. h \ £, 4), Rue Dumdril 15, R. 21/2, B. 1, dej. or D. 3 fr. ; 
DB KouBM ST OE LA PosTB (Pl. i ; £,3, 4), Rue Dum^ril 42, R. 2, dfj. 2V2, 

D. 3, pens. 71/2, omn. 1/2 fr., commercial-, de la Croix -Blanche (PI. k; 

E, 4), Rue de Be^uvais 44. 

BestaorABte at the JIdt. de France et dAngleterre (good) and at several 
oUier hotels. — Gafia. Du/ourmanteile^ Rue des Trois-Cailloux 34, and others 
in the same street. 

Cahs. For 1-2 pers., per drive 76 c., per V2 hr. 1 fr., per hr. i>/2 fr. ; 
3-4 pars., 1 fr., IV4 fr.. and 2 fr.; trunk S c. 

Tramwaya (comp. Plan): 1. From 8t. Acheul (comp. PI. H, 4) to Mon- 
tihret (comp. PI. A, 1) yi& the Place Gambetta (1st section) and the chureh 
of St. lirmio (2nd sect.); 2. From the Qare du Nord (PI. G, 4) to the B^o- 
drome (PI. A, 4) vi& the Place Qambetta (1st sect ) and the Bue Fr^d. Petit 
(2nd sect.); B. From the B&uJevard de Chdteaudun (comp. PI. D, 0) to the 
Cemetery of La Madeleine (comp. PI. G, 1) via the Place Oambetta (1st sect.) 
and the Ecole 8t. Mauice (2nd sect^; 4. Fr^m the Oare du Nord (PI. G, 4) 
to the Place Gambetta (PI. £, 4) via the Boul. de Beauvill^ (1st sect.) and 
the cemetery of St. Pierre (comp. PI. G, 1; 2nd sect.); 5. From the Oare 
du Nord to the Place Gambetta vill St. Martin (PI. F, 5; Ist feet.) and the 
Roe de la B^publique (museum ; 2nd sect.). Fares : 1st class 15, 20, and 
36 c. according to the number of sections £ 2nd class, 10, 16, and 20 c. 

Poat ft Telegraph Ottee (PI. E, 3) , Place de rHdtel-de-Ville. Tele- 
graph Office also at the Gare du Iford. 

Theatre (PI. F, 4), Rue des Trois-OaiUoux 69. — Circue (PI. E, F, 6), 
Place Longueville. 

Batha. Bains du Logis-du-Roi ^ in the pas.sage of that name between 
Kos. 59 and 61 Rue des Trois-Cailloux. 

Baaka. Banqw de France (PI. F, 4), Rue des Jacobins 60; Cridit Lyon- 
naif, CompUHre d'Etcompte, Cridit du Nord^ Rue des Trois-Cailloux 35, 86, 
and 128; BoeUti GMirale, Place Ren^-Goblet 5. 

Booktellert. Librairie Centrale, Rue de la R^publique 8; Becqiiet-D4coberty 
Rue Oriamore 52. 

Britith Yice-€onaul, William Sutdife. — American Consular Agent, 
Charlee Taeeencourt. 

English Cniurch Service once a month, on the first Thurs., in the French 
Protestant Church, Rue de Mete 47. French services on Sun. at 11 and 3. 

Pdt^s de Canards^ a specialty of Amiens, may be obtained good a<t 
Degand'^s, Rue de Noyon 20. 

Amiens^ the ancient capital of Picardy^ now that of the depart- 
ment of the Somme, and one of the principal manufacturing towns 
in France, with 90,920 inhab., is situated on the -Somm* audits 
affluents the Arve and the Belle, These streams form numerous 
canals in the lower part of the town. The principal manufactures 
are linen, woollen stuffs, silk thread, cashmeres, and velvet. The 
central part of the town is surrounded by handsome boulevards on 
the site of the former fortifications. 

Amiens is the ancient Samarobrivaj chief town of the Ambiani, cap- 
tured by Csesar. Christianity was introduced in 301 by St. Firmin, the 
first bishop and martyr, who must not be confounded with St. Firmin 
the Confessor, a later bishop. The town suffered severely from the in- 
cursions of the Normans. (5eded in 1435 to the Duke of Burgundy, it was 
bought back in 1463 by Louis XI ; and in 1597 it was surprised by the 
Spaniards but was retaken by Henri IV. In 1802 the Peace of Amiens 
was concluded here between France, Great Britain, Spain, and Holland. 
In Kov. 1870 the Germans entered the town after the Battle of Amiens, 
which consisted of a number of detached engagements at Villers-Breton- 
neuz, to the E., Dury, to the S., and other points in the vicinity (p. 64). — 
Peter the Hermit (d. 1116), preacher of the first Crusade, Blasset (1600^59), 
the sculptor, Voiture (1698-1648) and Oresset (1709-77), the poets, and Ducange 
(1610-88), the eminent linguist, were natives of Amiens. /-> 1 


26 Route 2. AMIENS. Cathedral. 

On quitting the station (PI. G, 4) we cross the Boulevards, 
which mark the limits of the old town. Immediately opposite is 
the Rue de Noyon, which we follow to the Place Bene^Goblet (PL F, 
G, 4), formerly Place St. Denis, emhellished with a bronze statue 
of Ducange (p. 26), by Caudron. Farther on is the Rue des Trois- 
Oailloux (p. 28). 

The Rue Victor-Hugo leads from the Place Ren<?-Gohlet to the 
right, passing the modem Palais de Justice (PI. F, 3, 4), to the — 

"'Cathedral (PI. F, 3), one of the most imposing Gothic churches 
in Europe. The present building was begun in 1220 on the site of 
an older cathedral destroyed by fire about 1218, the chief architects 
being Robert de Lutarches , Thomas de Cormont, and his son Re- 
gnault. The nave and facade were completed in 1236, the ambula- 
tory and radiating chapels lu 1247, the apse in 1269, while the sider 
chapels were added between 1292 and about 1376. Length 476 ft., 
length of transept 230 ft., width of nave 105 ft. The heaviness 
of the. building , which is on three sides masked by unsightly 
houses, is insufficiently relieved by the lofty and extremely slender 
spire over the transept, 370 ft. in height, re-erected in 1629. The 
two towers of the W. facade, completed long after the rest of the 
building, belong respectively to the 14th and early 16th cent., the 
former being 213 ft., the latter 216 ft. in height, but like the central 
spire they are too small for the edifice. The cathedral was restored 
by VioUet-le-Duc. — The tower over the transept may be ascended 
(apply to the keeper under the W. porch of the facade). 

The *Fa$adb contains three lofty recessed porcbos, richly adorned 
with reliefs and statues, formerly painted and gilded. In front of the four 
piera are the twelve Minor Prophets. In the tympanum above the central 
door (Porte da Sauveur) is a relief of the Last Judgment; 150 statues in 
the vaulting represent the celestial hierarchy, while the large statues on 
each side are the Apostles and the four Mig or Prophets. The doors of this 
central porch are separated by the ''Beau Dieu d''Ami6ns\ an admirable 
figure of the Saviour, holding the Gospels in his left hand and bestowing 
a blessing with his right, while he tramples under foot a lion and a dragon. 
At the sides are the wise and the Foolish Virgins; beneath the Apostlea 
is a doable row of medallions representing the virtues and the vices \ and 
beneath the Prophets scenes referring to their lives and prophecies. — The 
right doorway (Porte de la Mfere-Dieu) is ornamented in a similar way; 
above the doors, the Entombment, Assumption, and Coronation of the Virgin, 
beneath, a figure of the Virgin, and still lower, Adam and Eve; on the 
right side, the Annunciation, the Visitation, and the Presentation; on the 
left side, the Magi, Herod, Solomon, and the Queen of Sheba; below, 
Biblical scenes. — The left porch is dedicated to St. Firmin, the first bishop 
of Amiens. In the tympanum, the Invention and Translation of the relics 
of the saint; between the doors, a figureof St. Firmin; at the sides, oth6r 
saints of the district. The medallions represent the signs of the zodiac 
and employments suitable for each month. — The portals are surmounted 
by beautiful gables, on the central one of which is a modern figure of an 
angel. Above are a handsome gallery, a row of niches containing twenty- 
two colossal statues of kings of France, a magnificent rose-window 38 ft. 
in diameter, and (at the top) a gallery connecting the towers. 

The S. Am) N. Sidbb of the oathedral, which resemble each other 
in treatment, deserve attention also. The S.W. door is known as the 

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Digitized by 



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Cathedral. AMIENS. 2. Route. 27 

Porte de THoiloge or Porte de St. Christophe, from the adjoining 
colossal statue of St. Christopher. Of the statues on the exterior of 
the chapels of the nave the best are those representing the An- 
nunciation (3rd chap.), St. Nicholas (4th chap.), and the Trans- 
figuration (5th chap.). The elaborate sculptures that embellish the 
door of the S. Trantept (Porte de la Vierge Dore'e or Porte St. Honors) 
date, with the exception of the large statues at the sides, from the 
close of the 12th century. In the tympanum are the Apostles and 
the Life of St. Honors, bishop of Amiens ; in the vaulting, angels 
and scenes from the Old Testament, etc.; and at the sides two- 
angels and six unidentified personages. Between the doors is the 
beautiful Vierge Dor^e. The rose-window above the porch represents 
a Vheel of fortune'. — The porch of the N. Transept, the Porte 
St. Flrmin le Gonfesseur, is simpler than the others. Among the 
figures on the exterior of the nave-chapels on the N. side are those 
of St Louis (before 1302), Charles V. of France and his two sons, 
two cardinals, John the Baptist, and St. Flrmin (about 1375). 

The ^iNTEBiOB consists of nave, transepts, aisles, and choir, all flanked 
with chapels. The fine nave rises to the very unusual height of 139 ft., being 
surpassed in this respect by the cathedral of Bcauvais alone. The vaulting 
is borne by 126 remarkably bold columns. Above the nave is a Triforium. 
Over the mnin portal and in the transepts are magnificent rose-windows. 

Nave. By the first two pillars in the S. aisle are the tombs of two 
canons (d. 1504 and 1652). The monuments of the two bishops (d. 1222 
and 1236) who founded the church, on each side of the third bay in the 
nave, are fine works in bronze of the 13th century. The 2ad chapel in 
the 8. aisle contains a St Christopher, by Dupuis, and in the following 
two are an Annunciation and an Assumption by Blasset (17th cent.). — The 
"N. aisle also contaiDS works by Blasset, including a tomb and (in the 
2nd and 3rd chisels) two statues of the Madonna. In the 4th chapel is a 
very antique figure of Christ (known as ^St. Sauve'), freely retouched in 
the 18th century. 

South Transept. The High Reliefs here, representing scenes from the 
life of St. James the Great, date from the beginning of the 16th century. 
Below are small marble bas-reliefs, with the names of members of the 
Confr^rie du Puy Kotre-Dame, a society founded for the encouragement 
of literature and art. Opposite is the former chapel of the Confr^rie, 
containing an altar by Blasset (1627) with an altar-piece (Assumption) by 
Fr. Francken the Younger. Above is a representation of the Madonna 
rescuing a child from a well. 

Choir. Six marble steps ascend to the present choir-entrance (1761), 
which replaces a choir-screen removed in 1755. Beside the wrought-iron 
i^iog* by Jean Veyren, snmamed Vivarais. are marble statues of St.Vincent 
de Paul (1832) and San Carlo Borromeo (1755), placed here in 1832. The 
beaatifully carved *(7Aoir /9/aUs (apply to the verger; 50 c). 110 in number, 
were executed in 1508-19 by Arnould BouUn, Alexandre HveL Antoine 
Avernier^ and other local artists. There are no fewer than 3650 figures, 
the finest being those on the band-rails of the steps. The subjects, 400 in 
number, are chiefly Scriptural, but various worldly occupations and scenes 
are represented also. The pyramidal ornaments above the stalls are 40 ft. 
high. — The gilded wrought-iron screens between the pillars of the 
sanctuary date from 1761 68. — The exterior of the choir-screen is adorned 
with coloured and gilded *High Relict (restored in 1838), representing, 
on the K. side, the history of John the Baptist (1531), on the S. side, the 
life of St. Flrmin (p. 26). Below are the (tombs of ecclesiastics of the 
15-17th centuries. — The first of the radiating chapels contains Eight 
Sibyls and other paintings of the early 16th century. Some of4he stained- 
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28 Route 2. ' AMIENS. Musie de Picardie. 

glass windows in this and the other chapels date from the 13th cent. \ 
the best are in the Lady Chapel in the centre. — Opposite the Lady 
Chapel, behind the high-aliar, is the tomb of Canon Luccuj with the ""Enfant 
Pleureur*^ a much-admired but overrated marble angel by Blasset (1628). 
Korth Transept. To the left of- the door is the font, with the figures 
of four prophets, dating from about 1180. The High Reliefi here, resem- 
bling those in the S. transept, represent the Expulsion of the money- 
changers. Opposite is the chapel of St. Sebastian, by Blasaet (1634-35). The 
tombs of Cresset (p. 25) and Cardinal H^mart de Denonville (d. 1540) also 
are in this transept. — Oomp. John Rutkin, The Bible of Amiens. 

At the back of the charch rises a mediocre statue in bronze of 
Peter the Hermit (PL F, 3), or Pierre of Amiens (see p. 26). 

The Rae Robeit-de-Luzarches, beginning opposite the S. portal 
of the Cathedral and passing the Palais de Justice (p. 26), leads 
back to the Bue des Troix-CaiUoux, the busiest street in the town, 
with the best shops, the Theatre (PI. F, 4; 1778-80), the HalU au 
Bli (PI. F, 4), and the Passage de la Renaissance (PI. F, 3, 4). At 
the W. end of the Rue des Trois-Oailloux is the Place Oambetta 
(PI. E, 3, 4), in which is a clock tower in wrought iron and bronze, 
by Em. Ricquier and Alb. Roze (1897). 

The Rue de la R^pnbllqne leads hence to the left to the boule- 
vards, passing near the Church of St, Remi (PI. E, 4), which has 
been under restoration since 1890. The choir and transepts are in the 
Gothic style of the 13th century. Farther on, on the right, is the — 

*MaB^e de Picardie (PI. E, 4), a handsome building erected in 
1865-69, containing collections of antiquities, sculptures, and paint- 
ings. Admission free on Sun. (11-4 or 6), Tues., and Thurs. (12-4 
or 6) ; on other days on application. Catalogue (1899), 1 fr. 

Chround- Floor. — Boom I. to the right of the entrance, a kind of 
Chapel^ painted and gilded in the Romanesque style, contains sculptures of 
the middle ages and the Renaissance, and has some good stained glass of 
the 15th and 16th centuries. 

Room II (Oalerie Lapidaire) contains Roman and other antiquities; 
sculptures; wood-carvines ; porcelain; furniture; tapestry, monks'* heads 
carved in wood (Nos. 90, 89, 87), etc. — Rooms III and IV: Roman and 
Gallo-Roman antiquities, including a statue of Diana. — Room V: Sculp- 
tures: 24. (Voui, Satyr-, 14. Caudron^ Archimedes. — Room VI: MeroTingian 
and foreign antiquities. — Room VII: Greek antiquities. 

Room VIII (Sculpture QalUry). i n the middle : 18. Ohr^Hen, Follower 
of Bacchus (bronze); 64. Loiton^ The Soul; no number, Ouittet^ African 
water-carrier ; 58. Leteom4^ Olytie ; 47. Lange QttglMmOy Giotto ; 96. Dampt^ 
End of a dream; 17. Chdbrii^ A child's reverie; 81. Roulleau^ Leda; 66. 
Mathety Hesitation; no number, Rote^ Resurrection. Opposite, as we return: 
59. Uviquty Amazon; 63. Loi»on^ Daphnis and Nais; 48. Chtillaumty Bona- 
parte. On the entrance -wall: "No number, FoM$iy Monument of L^on Du- 
vauchel ; 12. Caudron^ Amphitheatre at Aries (bronze-relief). Against the wall 
and opposite the windows : 19. CUsinffer, Leda; 28. DelabrHre, Panther and 
heron; 11 . Ringel d* Jlltach^ March of Bakoczy (terracotta); 76. Renoir^ Eve. 
On the wall facing the entrance: 44. FraneetcM^ Head of Christ (wax); 79. 
Rodin^ Children's games. — At the foot of the staircase in the vestibule: 
52. L€ Pirty Faun hunting (bronze); 25. Cugnot^ Corybante drowning the 
cries of the infant Jupiter (bronze). 

Cbmtral Saloon. Paintings. From right to left: *143. ffireau^ Rising 
storm; 262. Schnetx, Miracle; *199. Maignany Dante meeting Matilda. ~ Vo 
number, Roybet^ Duke of Orbinio ; *41. Boucher^ Crocodile-hunt (1739). — 
7. Bachelier, Bear-hunt; 189. le Poittevin^ Shipwrecked; 91. Demont- Breton^ 

Musie de Pieardie. AMIENS. 2. Route. 29 

MiU: 106. Carolut'Jhtran^ A Sadanese ; 166. Lairm*y Allegorical portrait 
(1671; Duchess of Gleves?); 133. Qramet^ St. Louis Ageing the prisoners at 
DamietU; 84. Daoid^ Countess Dillon; *206. SaUiuon. Arrest in Picardj; 
136. Qir&m^ The Augustan age; 8. BaehtUtr, African lion; 64. (kmaUUoO\ 
Venice. — 2?8. C. Vanlao, Bear-hunt. — 371. Ft4mtih School (17th cenUX 
Drinker; 10. Bemdrf, St. John the Baptist; no number, Agachty The aged 
conqueror; above, 816. ZiegUr^ Peace of Amiens; beyond the door, no 
number, Hmner^ Woman asleep; 266. SautaL Fra Angelica; no number, 
FtmHm^Latour, Figures in a wood; above, 299. B, Fsrns/, Massacre of the 
Mamelukes at Cairo in 1811; Cattet, 60. Spring, 61. Summer. — 183. /. Le- 
fOvre^ Laughing girl; 289. 0. Fonfoo, Ostrich-hunt. — 198. i/M^nan, Voices 
of the tocsin; *180. /. L^ffibwrt^ Lady Godiva; 86. Dtnoant^ Rescue from a 
wreck; 116. Fragoiutrd^ Open-air dinner; no number, /. L^/ebrrre. Kymph 
hunting. — Quentin d« la Tom', Hli. Portrait of the artist (ca. 1760), no 
number. Study; 284. Toequdy Portrait of Cochin; 40. BouehBTy Leopard-hunt. 
— 193. LhormUUy Death and the woodcutter ; 37. Boqutty For the procession ; 
123. GlaUe. The reefs of life; 19. BemuTy Sleeping girl. 

First Floor. — The staircase is adorned with allegorical mural *Paint- 
ings by Fuvis dB Chapannet (^Ludos pro Patria'; *Toil and Best'). — The 
Salle du D6me is adorned with a ceiling-painting (France crowning dis- 
tinguished natives of Pieardy) and various paintings in monochrome, by 
Fil. Barrku. Pu9is d€ Cfunemne* has embellished the adjoining rooms with 
allegorical paintings. 

Room I (on the left side) contains curious old paintings of the *AmUm 
School of the 15th and 16th Cent., presented to the Gonfr^rie du Puy Notre 
Dame (p. 27) by its annual presidents, and bearing quaint titles in old 
French: 322. ^Tree bearing the fruit of eternal life' (1499); then five paint- 
ings (1618-25) in their original fine frames; 325. ^Rock whence issues the 
fountain of living water' (1566); 327. 'Soil whence truth Ukes its birth' 
(1601); 828. *Sacred fire preserved in the holj weir (1617); etc. — 329. 
Burning bush; 381^334. Panels (16th cent.); 330. Bearing of the Cross; 
336-337. Triptych (16th cent.); no number. Panel (15th cent.). Sevres vase; 
old tapestry. 

Room II. French school of the 18th and 19th centuries. 244. Restout, 
Alexander on the sick-bed. ~ Ko number, Makarty Bacchanal ; Miehely 206. 
St. Augustin, 207. Christ the source of life. — 186. UhottXy St. John the 
Baptist; 206. MeyMtTy (Edipus as a child; 44. L. de Boulogncy Augustus 
closing the Temple of Janus ; 16. Bellangiy Return from Elba; 2iB6. Troyouy 
Park of St. Cloud; 311. Watelet^ Landscape. — 272. An^e, Tancred wounded. 

Room III (on the left). From right to left: 24. Bimt^ Landscape; 42. 
Boutangery Ccesar at the Rubicon; 138. Oueldry, Maceration of metals; 298. 
C. Vertuty Greek horseman combatting a lion; 60. Chintreuily The moon; 
141. OuUlemety St. Suliac. — 146. Hesscy Mirabeau announcing the refusal of 
the States General to obey the King's order for a dissolution (June ISth, 
1789). — 263. H. SehiffeVy Vision of Charles IX.; several good landscapes; 
no number, Henri Martin, Inspiration; 266. 8in(baldi, Manon Lescaut; 218. 
MUUeTy Lady Macbeth; 49. Bretony The spring; 214. Monvoitiny Joan the 
Mad, queen of C^tile; *66. Cabanely Death of Francesca da Rimini; 242. 
Rtnouf, End of the day; 140. Ouiaudy Antwerp cathedral; 274. TatUgrainy 
The Mourners of Staples; 130. Olaize the Youngery Athenian fugitives; no 
numbers, TatUgrainy The old musician, J. Lefebvrcy Vestal vir^n. — 312. 
De Winter y During the 'neuvaine' (a devotional act lasting nine days); 112. 
Ferriery Mothers cursing war; no numbers. Bowgeoisy With the Chouans, 
Mme. Virginie Demont- Bretony Seamen. — The adjoining Cabinet contains 

Room IV: 171. LangloiSy Diana andEndymion; 245. Restouty Last Sup- 

8er; 303. Vincenty Henri IV and Sully at the battle of Ivry. — Room V: 
J. Daubignvy Dunes of St. Quentin; 285. De Troyy The Virgin asleep; 
J. L^ebffre. 181. Sophocles, 182. Coriolanus and TuUus; 209. P. Molyny 
Storm; 318. ZubeTy The past of Versailles; 25. Blanehard^ Landscape; 6. 
Baeheliery Childish amusements; 302. Vincenty Arria and Pwtus. — Room VI: 
211. Monchablony Burial of Moses. This room also contains a collection of 
medals. — Room VII: 36. Bonnegrdce, Bashfulness vanquished by love; 

30 Route 2. AMIENS. MusSe de Pieardie. 

101, 102. Dubuftj Sacred aod Profane Music; 276. TeUteffram, Fishermaa; 
no number, Maillardj Last reaources; 154. Jaeqvand^ Condemnation of 
Galileo*, no number, /*. Poutbm the Younger. Queen Marie de Mddicis. — 
Boom VIII: Lagrenie^ 165. Venus bathing, 164. Venus and Oupid^ *278. 
Teniert, Quack; 373. Flemish School ViUage fair; 295, 296. Vardier^ Mytholo- 
gical scenes; 47. Boudeuym and BouU^ Seaport; 50. ' VelveC Brueghel^ Flemish 
feast; 'SOd, *307. Van der Vliet, P -rtraifs of a Dutchman and his wifc^ 
De Lafoue, 162. The Virgin suckling the Holy ChUd. 163. Jacob and Laban; 
45. Le Valentin (J. de BouUmgne)^ The passions: 145. Herrera the Elder^ 
Miracle of the loaves. — 27. Bloemaert, St. Monica; 51. Brit, Landscape; 
231. Piero della Francetea (7), Madonna and Child; *305. Vivarini, Holy Fa- 
mily ; 235. Pourbus (?), The five senses ; 156. Jordaens, Christ appearing to 
Mary Magdalen; 319. Zurbaran(7), St. Catharine of Siena. — Boom IX: 
30S. Vollon, Monkey; 121. Oambart^ Pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Valery v 
261. Schnetz, Sack of Aquileia by Attila; 239. Van Schendet^ Mary Magdalen; 
250. O. Rouitel, The body of Gen. Marceau given to the French army; 36. 
Boquet, The Herbillonnes: 217. MoHn^ Shipwreck; 115. Foucaueovrt^ Banks 
of theSomme: 283. ThuilUer^ Via Tiburtina; 139. Ouirte^ Bmpress Bug^nie 
visiting the cholera patients at Amiens in 1866; 15. Bedter^ Orestes and 
the Furies; 57. Cahat^ Good Samaritan; 273. Sylvettre^ Nero and Locusta; 
63. Oaninadey Death of the Virgin; 39. Boucher y Venus demanding arms 
for ^neas from Vulcan; 17. Bellangiy Waterloo; 200. MartineUiy Susanna 
and the Elders ; 222. Parroeely Cavalry skirmish ; 76. Commj, Sacrifice to 
Jupiter ; 182. Qoyety Council of war ; 70. Ciboty Charity presiding over a 
ujiion of the different bodies of state; 52. Q. Brion^ The christening-day. — 
BoomX: 185. Rob. LefhtrCy Louis XVHI: 9. BariUoty Ponds; 119. Franqiuliny 
Jesus raising the daughter of Jaims; 219. Nattier y Portrait of Oresset the 

?oet; 100. Dnboie-Drahonet. Duchess of Berry; 291. /. B. Vanlooy Louis XV; 
37. Gni, Last sigh of Christ. 

Boom XI, parallel to B. X, contains the * Oalerie Lavalard^ a collection 
of works (mostly small) by the old masters, including several interesting 
examples. From right to left, as we enter from B. IX: Landscapes and 
genre-scenes of the Dutch school; *243. Biberay The mass of Pope Gregory; 
above, 95, 96. Fr. Hahy Portraits. — *'6 (opposite), A. Cuypy Family in a 
landscape; 8. /. O. Cuypy Portrait; 71. Van Arthoi»y Landscape'; 246. Riberay 
St. Francis of Assisi; 3. Brekeknkamy Cobbler; 45. 8. van Ruyedaely Land- 
scape; 100. Jordaenty Game! and vegetable dealer; 230. 8. Boeoy Landscape; 
246. Riberoy St. John the Baptist; 227. TintorettOy Susanna at the bath; •13, 
12, 14. Van Ooyen, Sea-pieces; 38, 89. 8. van Ruyedaely Landscapes; 108. 
Snyderty Game and fruit, etc.; 10. FUncky Portrait; 244. Riberay Plato; 
92, 93. Fyty Game; 36. Pynaekery Sea-piece; 57. Jan Vietorty Interior; 9. 
Everdingeny Landscape ; 247. Vekuquez(?)y Portrait; 166. LargilUirey Portrait; 
23. Lingelbach, Brigands on the watch. — 110 (farther on), Snyderty Game 
and fruit. — The glass-cases contain medals, assignats, and various 
souvenirs. — At the end of the gallery next the staircase is another Cabikkt 
with engravings. 

Opposite the Museum is the Prifecture (18th cent.). A little 
farther on, on the right, is the Bibliothhque CommunaU (PI. E, 4), 
containing ca. 80,0()0 vols, and 1462 MSS. (adm. daily, except on 
holidays, 1-6 ; in winter 8-10 p.m. also). 

The Rue de la R^publiqne ends at the Place Longneville (PI. 
E, 5; circus, see p. 26), whence the Boulevard du Mail (PL F, 4) 
leads to the left towards the Gare du Nord. 

In the Bue Duthoit, close by on the K., is a monument, known as 
the lUuitrations Pieardee (PI. P, 4), consisting of a figure of Picardy, sur- 
rounded with statues and busts of eminent natives of that province. 

In the opposite direction the boulevards lead to the extensive 

Promenade de la Hotoie (PI. A, B, 0, 2, 3), at the W. end of the 

wn, where public festivals occasionally take place. 


Hdtelde ViUt. AMIENS. 2. Boute. 31 

From the Promenade the Rue de la Hotoie (PI. D, 3 ; tramway) 
leads direcUy towards the centre of the town, ending at the Place 
St. Firmin. To the left of this square, at the foot of the Rue de 
Gond^, is the H6ul Morgan^ an interesting private mansion of the 
end of the i5th century. Farther on is the Jardin des Plantet (PI. 
E, 2), which is open to the public. — The Rue au Lin, leading 
straight on from the Place St. Firmin, brings us to the Beffroi (PI. 
E, S), an eccentric edifice of 1748 on a much older base (restored in 
1865), with a bell weighing 11 tons. — The church of 8L €fermain 
(PI. E, 3), lying somewhat to the left, dates from the 16th cent., 
and has a fine tower leaning slightly to the N., a carved portal of 
' the 16th cent, and a St. Sepulchre of 1506. 

The belfry rises immediately behind the Hfttel de ViUe (PI. E, 3j, 
lately enlarged and almost entirely rebuilt. The peace of Amiens 
(see p. 25) was signed here. — In a court to the W. of the H6tel 
de Ville is the fine Facade of the Bailliage (1541). 

In the Rue Vergeaax CNos. 57-59 ; Maiton dv Sagittain) and the Bue 
des Sergenta (No. 67), both ranning to the N. from the Place Gambetta 
(p. 28), are several interesting old houses. Farther to the N. (tramway) 
lies the ^Basse Ville'', intersected by numerous arms of the Somme, and 
containing the church of St. Leu (PI. F, 2) and the HdUl Dim (PI. E, F, 2-, 
16-18th cent.). •— To the W. extend the HortUlonage* (PI. G, 1, 2), a curious 
region of inarket-gardens, irrigated from the Somme. 

Fbom Amiens to Rouen (and Le Havre), 72V2M.. railway in lV4-3*/4 hrs. 
(farea 13 fr. 20, 8 fr. 85, 5 fr. 75 c). — The train follows the line to 
Beauvais as far as (5 M.) Saleux (p. 24). — iSVz M. Poix (Hdtel du Cardinal), 
a prettily situated little town, has a Gothic church of the 15-i6th cent., 
with a richly sculptured interior. — 31 V« M. Abancourt (buffet) it the 
junction for Le Tr^port (see p. 35). — 407^ M. Gaillefontaine (hotels) has 
a i3th cent, church. — 4472 M. Serqueux (buffet) is the junction for the 
line from Paris to Pontoise and Dieppe (p. 12^. 5OV2 M. Sommery. Tunnel, 
1625 yds. long. 56 M. Montirolier'Buchy. from which there is a branch to 
Clares, Motteville, and Le Havre (p. 146). 70 H. Bametal (Croix Blanche) ^ 
an industrial place with 6920 inhab., prettily situated in a little valley. 
Kear the Hdtel de Ville is the Tour de Carville^ a handsome belfiry of 
lfil2-14. — Fine view of Rouen to the right. — 72V2 M. Rouen (Gare du Kord), 
see p. 128. 

FxoK Amiens (St. Roch) to Aumale (p. 35), 35 M., narrow-gauge line 
in 2Vs-3V4 hrs., traversing a wool-manufacturing district. 

From Amiens to Bouhffne and Calaie, see B. 1; to Arrae, Douai, Valen- 
eiennet, etc., see B. 5; to Doullent^ St. Pol, etc., see pp. 23, 22 ; to Chdlons- 
sur-Mame (BEle) vi& Rheinu, see R. 9. 

3. From Paris to Beauvais and Le Treport (Mors). 

I. From Paris to Beaavais. 

a. Vi& Konttoult and Beaumont. 

49 M. Railway in li/a-S hrs. (fares 8 fr. 85, 5 fr. 95, 3 fr. 90 c). 

Trains start from the Gare du Nord (PI. B. C, 23, 24). See also the Map, 

&66. — To Le Triport by this route, 113Vt M., in 8-6V« hrs. (fares 20 fr. 
, 13 fir. 95 c, 9 fr.). — Omnibuses ply from the station at Le Treport 
to Mere (30 c). 

The through-trains do not stop before Montsoult or Beaumont; 
for details as far as Beaumont, see Baedeker* » Handbooh4o Paris. 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 

32 Routed, BEAUMONT. From Paris 

15^2 M. MontsouU, junction for Lutarchea, The line now de- 
scends a picturesque valley and intersects a portion of the ForeU of 
CameUe, To the right is seen the magnificent modern Chateau of 
FraneonviUe. — Beyond (21 M.) Nointel the train crosses the Oiae 
and joins the line from Paris via Pontoise (p. 128). 

23 M. Peraan-'BeaufnonL Penan is an industrial village to the 
left. Beanmont-iiur-Oiso (Hdtel dea Quatre^FUs-Aymon) y a town 
with 4089 inhab., on the left bank of the Oise, is dominated by an 
interesting church of the 13th cent, and a ruined ch&teau. 

From Beaumont to Crbil, I8V2 H., railway ascending the valley of 
the Oise. — 91/2 M. St. Leu-d^Esterent, the consplcuoua church of which is 
chiefly of the 12th century. The largeat of its three towers is Romanesque. 
— iSVs M. Oreil, see p. 68. — In the opposite direcHon this line rans 
viS, Valmondoit to (i3]|^ M.) PontoUe (p. 128). A narrow-gaoge line also runs 
from Beaumont to (90 H.) Bermes (see below). 

251/2 M. Chambly, with an abbey-church (13th cent, j to the right). 
Several small stations. 33 M. Mem (H6t. du Centre), a prettily-situated 
town with 5466 inhabitants. The whole of this district is engaged 
in the manufacture of buttons, brushes, and fancy turnery. — 
371/2 M. Lahoissilte'le'Diluge, The train now passes through 
a tunnel, nearly 1 M. long, and descends the picturesque valley of 
the Thirain, Beyond (461/2 M.) ViUere-sur'Thkre we cross the 
Th^rain, and the imposing cathedral of Beauvais soon comes into 
sight on the right. — 49 M. Beauvais, see p. 33. 

b. YU Ghantilly and Greil. 
541/2 M. Railway (as above) in 2-2S/4 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 85, 6 fr. 66, 4 fr. 
35 c). — ToUTripcrt by this route, 119 M., in 3Vt-7»/4 hrs. (fares as above). 

From Paris to (32 M.) Creil, see R. 11a. On leaving Oreil the 
train 'returns for a short distance in the direction of Paris, then 
enters the valley of the Thirain to the right, and crosses the river 
several times. — 33^/2 ^' Montataire (7141 inhab.) is commanded 
by a handsome church of the 12-1 3th cent, and a ch&teau of the 
15th century. — 35 M. Cramoisy, in the neighbourhood of which 
are extensive quarries of building-stone. — dl^/^M.Cires-lhS'Mello. 
The chitedLU of MeUo, on a hill to the right, dates from the 18th cent- 
ury. — 39 M. Balagny-Saint-Epin. 

41 M. Mouy-Bury. Mouy (Hdt des Voyageurs j Central), to the 
left, is a cloth-making town with 3454 inhab. ; Bury^ to the right, 
has a priory-church of the ll-13th centuries. — 44 M. Heilles- 

The flne chateau of Moucky-le-Chdtely IVs M. to the left, dates from the 
period of the Renaissance. It contains some fine portraits and other paint- 
ings, sculptures by Pajou, Houdon, Carpeaux, etc., and a valuable library. 

46 M. Hermes (railway to Beaumont, see above). — 47 M. ViUer$' 
St'Sipiderey so called from a St. Sepulchre in the church, enclosing 
a slab from the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. Ruined priory of the 
11th century. — 50 M. Rochy-CondS, Branch to Clermont (Soissons, 
Compiftgne) and St. Just, see p. 24. On the hillside to the left is 



zed by Google 


zed by Google 

to Le Triport. BEAUVAIS. 3. Route. 33 

tbe Chdteau of Merlemontj partly of the 16th century. — The 
church of (52 M.) Therdonne has a fine Gothic choir. 

' 54 V2 ^« Beauvais (buffet). — Boteli. Db Fkancb et d'Amqlbtbbbe 
(PJ. a; B, 5), Bue de la Manufacture 16, near the station, B. 2^/fly B. 1, 
d^j. 3, D. 3, pens. 9-10, omn. V2 fr.; Continental (PI. b; C, 4), Place de 
rH6tel-de-Ville 37, B. from 2V«, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 3V2, pens, from 9, 
omn. V2 fr-> i>" l'Ecd, Bue de Halherbe 26^ db la Oabb, pens. 6V2 fr.! 
unpretending. — Oaf^i. Du ChcUet^ Potard^ Place de rHdtel-de-Ville. — 
Oab«. 1 pers. per drive 75 c, each addit. pers. 25 c. up to IV2 fr.; per hr. 
1-2 pers. 1V« fr-2. 3 pera. 2 fr. , 4 pers. 2V2 fr- — Po»t & Telegraph Office 
(PI. C, 3), Bue Jean-de-Ligniferes. 

Beauvaiiy an ancient manufacturing town on the T/t^ram, with 
20,243 Inhab., is the capital of the department of the Oi$e and the 
seat of a bishop. Carpets, woollen cloths, military cloth, gold and 
silver lace, buttons, and brushes are among the chief manufactures. 

Beauvais occupies the site of the ancient capital of the Bellovaei, sub- 
dued by Caesar. Fortified in 1190 by Philip Augustus, the town defied the 
attack of Edward III. in 1346; but about 1420 it was placed in the hands 
of the Bnglish by its bishop, Pierre Cauchon. In its gallant resistance 
to Charles the Bold and his army of 80,000 men in 1472 the women of 
Beauvais especially distinguished themselves by their courage, and one of 
them, Jeanne Laine or ^Hachette^ by name, captured with her own hands 
a hostile banner, now preserved in the Hdtel de Ville. The event is still 
annually celebrated on tbe Sun. nearest St. Peter's day (June 29th). 

In coming from the station (PI. D, 5) we pass the square in 
front of the Octroi, and turn to the left by the Avenue de la Ke- 
publique and the Rue de la Manufacture. A little to the left is the 
Manupactory of Tapbstby (PI. B, C, 5), founded in 1664, i.e. only 
two years after the state-factory of the Gobelins at Paris, of which It 
is the only branch. Visitors are admitted to the small museum and 
the workshops (more interesting) daily, except Sun., 12-4. 

The Beauvais establishment chiefly makes tapestry for furniture, adorned 
with landscapes, flowers, ornamental designs animals, and pastoral scenes, 
and occasionally with historical or mythological subjects. Beauvais tapestry 
differs from Gobelins in being woven on low- warp (bcute lice) looms, in 
which the warp-threads are horizontal, while Gobelins is woven on. high- 
warp (haute lice) looms, with vertical warp-threads. An area of 4Vs sq. 
inches is the average daily task of a good workman. The visitor who has 
previously seen only faded old tapestry will bs struck with the beauty and 
brightness of the colours and the delicacy of the shading, each distinct 
hue being represented by twenty-four different shades. Silk is sometimes 
used in representing flowers, fruit, and metallic lustre, but the whole of 
the rest of the work is in wools, the colours of which are more durable. 
There is, of course, no room for the display of originality, as the works 
are all copies of pictures or cartoons. 

The Church of 8t, Stephen (PI. B, 5), farther on, an edifice 
of the 12th, 13th, and 16th cent, exhibits a curious blending of 
Romanesque (nave) and Gothic (choir). It has a large W. tower and 
a flue rose- window in the N. transept. 

Intebiob. By the second pillar on the right is a Mater Doloroea under 
a Gothic canopy} in the right aisle, Gracifixion of a saint (12th cent.); on 
the pillars near the choir, eight small paintings on panel (i6th cent.); in 
the first chape] on the right, a modern Mater Dolorosa; in the second 
chapel on the left, an Ecce Homo (i6th cent.). Good vaulting and 16th cent. 
* Stained Okus in the choir and ambulatory. 

Babdbkbb's Northern France. 5th Edit. Digitized by G@)OQ[c 

34 Routes. BEAUVAIS. From Paris 

Turning to the right as we quit the church, we soon reach the 
Rue St. Jean, which leads, past several old timher houses {e,g. No. 8), 
to the picturesque Place de VEdtet'de- Ville (PI. B, C, 4), embellished 
with a bronze statue of Jeanne Hachette (p. 33), by Vital Dubray. 
The Hdtel de Ville (PI. B, 4; 18th cent.) has its council-chamber 
adorned with five paintings from the history of the town, by D. MaiUart. 
To the right, in the court, is the Library (open on Sun. & Thurs. 
1-4, Wed. & Frid. 8-9 p.m. ; closed in Sept.), containing 30,000 vols, 
and 178 MSS., and Jeanne Hachette's banner (restored in 1851). 

The •Oathbdbal (flft. Pierre; PI. B, 3), to theN.W., though con- 
sisting merely of a choir and transepts, ranks as one of the finest 
Gothic buildings in France. Its proportions are gigantic to the verge 
of temerity. The exterior height, to the ridge, is 223 ft. ; the vaulting, 
which has twice fallen in because the pillars and buttresses were 
too weak and too few, rises 158 ft. above the pavement, while an 
open-work spire which soared above the crossing to the giddy height 
of 500 ft., fell in 1573 because it was unstayed on the W., through 
the absence of a nave. 

Begun in 1227 the works went on, with interruptions, until after 1578. 
The choir was uerhaps designed by Eudes de MontrtuiL the architect of 
St. Louis ) the if. portol was erected at the expense of Francis I. by J/or- 
tin ChambiffUy who worked also at Sens andTroyes} the S. portal is due to 
MieJtel Lalye. The *8. Portal (1548), excelling the entire facades of many 
other cathedrals both in size and magnificence, has unfortunately been 
stripped of its statues, though it is still richly adorned with carving. It is 

surmounted by a double open arcade, a large rose-window, and a fine 
gable, while it is strengthened by two buttresses in the form of turrets. 
The carved oaken *Door»i by Jean le Pot^ rank among the finest in existence. 

The N. Portal (1537), though not rivalling the other, is also rich; its earved 
doors, also by Jectn le Pot^ are in better preservation. 

Imtbbiob. The beauty of the Choir has given rise to the saying that 
Hhe choir of Beauvais, the nave of Amiens, the portal of Bheims, and the 
towers of Chartres would together make tiie finest church in the world\ 
The piers that have been added for the sake of strengthening the building 
are easily distinguished. The choir is upwards of 130 ft. long, and its 
windows are 56 ft. in height. *There are few rocks, even among the Alps% 
says Buskin in his ^Beven Lompe of Architeeture\ *that have a dear vertical 
fall as high as the choir of Beauvais'. The ambulatory is fringed with Chap- 
els, The first on the right is adorned with a modern fresco by A. Orel- 
let, representing Jeanne Hachette capturing the banner. To the left of 
the choir is the 8aerieiv<, adjoining which are a marble statue of Cardinal 
Forbin Janson, by N. Couetou (1798), a Clock of the 16th cent., and two 
Tapestries (16th cent.), probably made atBeauvais, representing the fabulous 
origin of France, from Bonsard's *La Franciade\ Another tapestry of this 
series, one of 1460, and eight others of the 17th cent., after Baphael's cartoons, 
are displayed in the transepts. The stained glass in the chapel of the K. 
transept is by Engrand le Prince (1522). In the left choir-chapel is a 
modern * Astronomical Clock, 89 ft. high, 20 ft. broad, and 9 ft. deep; it is 
composed of 90,000 pieces, has 52 dials, and gives 80 distinct indications 
(apply to the sacristan, 1 fr. \ on Sat. & Sun. 50 c). 

To the W. of the cathedral is the Baaae-CEuvre^ a Carlovingian 
structure, probably the nave of the older cathedral erected in 987-97. 
It contains tapestry of the 15th century. 

The gateway, flanked by two towers resembling pepper-boxes, 
on the S.W. of the Place de la Oath^drale, belongs tot the Palais de 

Digitized by VnOOk 

to he Triport. AUMALE. 3. Route. 36 

Justice (PI. B, 3), formerly the bishop's palace. It dates from the 
14th cent., though the foundations are Gallo-Roman work, at one 
time forming part of the town-walls. The palace itself was built in 
1500; its richly-sculptured facade should be seen from the court. 
The fine restored Romanesque tower at the back is now partly con- 
cealed by trees. — The ancient building, with remains of an old Gothic 
cloister, behind the Basse-CEuvre is now occupied by a small Music 
(PI. B, 3; open free on Sun. A holidays, 12-4, on other days on 

The Mus€e chiefly contains Gallo-Boman antiquities and medieeval wood- 
carvings, with a few paintings, natural history specimens, and numerous 
small antiquities. 

To the N. of the cathedral is the Bishops Palace(l^l B, 3 j 1878-82). 

Many quaint Old Houses are to be found In the streets near 
the cathedral; e.g. in the Rue St. Laurent (Nos. 26 and 27), diverg- 
ing to the W. from the Rue de rEvechl, and especially in the Rue 
Philippe-de-Beaumanoir and Rue St. Paul, on the other side of the 
church. Farther on is a comer -turret with a leaden figure of 
St. Michael, of the Gothic period. A few yards farther on we reach 
the Place Emest-Qirard (PI. B, 4) and the Theatre (PI. B, 4), to the 
left from which lies the Place de rH6tel-de-Ville. 

A good view of the town is obtained from the 8quar€ du Riservoir (PI. 
B, 0, 6), a promenade on a hill, 5-7 min. walk from the station, on the 
other side of the Th^rain. — About 1/4 M. to the K. of the station is a 
large tree-shaded space known as the Jeu de Paume (PI. D, 3), where a band 
plays on Sun. in summer from 3 to 4 p.m. and tennis-matches take place. 
The Lyeie (PI. D, 2) farther on adjoins a hill on which once lay a Soman 

The church of the suburb of Mai'itsel, to the K.E., has a Romanesque 
tower, a choir of the 12th cent., a nave and portal of the i5-16th, and 
a magnificent wooden altar-screen of the same period. ^ 

Fbom Bbauva.18 to Goubnat (Dieppe), iSVs^., railway in 50 min. (fares 
3 fr. 36, 2 fr. 26, 1 fr. 50 c). This route ascends the Vallie de Bray 
(p. 127). - 1472 M. St. Germer. The village (hotel), i»A M. to the S.W., 
liai an interesting Abbey Church, in the Transition style, partly rebuilt at 
a later date. The *8ainte Chapelle, a reduced copy of the magnificent 
Sainte Ghapelle at Paris, was added to the E. end in 1259. — ISVz M. 
Oournay, 8M ^.i2Q. 

From Beadvais to Gisobs, SiVz M., railway in 1 hr. (fares 8 fr. 90, 9 fr. 
65, 1 fr. 70 c). — 19V2 M. Trie-Chdteau (p. 128). — 2iVz M. Oisors-Ville, 
see p. 127. 

From Beauvais to Amient, see p. 24; to Clermont and Compiigne, 
see p. 24 ; to Bt. Jutt^ Pironne^ and Cambnxi^ see pp. 24, 28 and B. 8b. 

n. From Beauvais to Le Tr^port. 

641/sM. Railway in IVt-Si/sbrs. (fares 11 fr. 86, 7fr. 96, 6fr. 15 c.). 

We follow the Amiens line as far as (59 M. from Paris) 8t. Omer- 
en-Chaussit (p. 24). Several small stations follow. 

78 M. Abanoonrt (buffet), junction for Rouen and Amiens 
(p. 31). — The railway descends rapidly. 82 M. Oourchelles ; 83 M. 

85 M. Anmale (Chapeau BougeJ^ a small town (2417 inhah.) 
prettily situated on the Bresle, which was formerly the £. boundary 

3» ^ 

36 Route 3. EU. Prom Parit 

of Normandy. Henri IV was severely wounded here in 1592 and 
narrowly escaped capture by the Leaguers. The Rue Centrale, passing 
the H6tel de VilU (16-17th cent.), leads from the station to the chief 
building, the church of St. Pierre etSt. Paul, rebuilt in 1508-1610, 
after its destruction by Charles the Bold, who burned the town 
in 1472. The portals, the pulpit (17th cent.), the stained glass, 
and a Holy Sepulchre (15th cent.) are noteworthy. The title of Due 
d'Aumale was borne by the fourth son (1822-97) of Louis Philippe. 
From Aumale a railway runs to (32V2 M.) Envermeu (p. 122) vi& (24 M.) 
Londinierei. — To AmitM^ see p. 31. 

We now descend the pretty valley of tho Bresle. 98 V2 ^* ^^ongy 
(Hdt. de la Poste), an industrial village with a Gothic church of the 
13th, 14th, and 16th centuries. 101 M. Monchaux. 

103 V2 M. Longroy- Gamaches is the junction for Longprtf (p. 14). 
Gamaches (Grand Oerf ; St. Pierre), a small town to the right, contains 
an interesting church of the 12th, 13th, and 15th centuries. 

112 M. Eu {H6t. du Commerce et du Cygne, pens, from 772 fr.; 
de la Gare, pens, from 6 fr.), a town with 5743 iiihab., on the Bresle, 
was a favourite residence of Louis Philippe, who received Queen 
Victoria at the Chdteau here in 1843 and 1845. The latter was built 
in the 16-17th cent, and restored by Louis Philippe, but two-thirds 
of it were destroyed by flre in Nov. 1902. The chapel, which was 
saved, has some modern stained glass from Sevres, designed by Paul 
Delaroohe and Chenavard. The fine Park (no adm.), laid out by Le 
N6tre, commands a view of the sea. — The Church of St. Lawrence^ 
a handsome Gothic editice founded at the beginning of the 11th cent., 
reconstructed in 1186-1230. partly rebuilt about 1450, and restored 
in the 19th cent., is notable for the curious double arches between 
the pillars of the nave. In a chapel on the right are a Holy Sepulchre 
(15th cent.) and a Head of Christ (16th cent). The Madonna in the 
apsidal chapel is said to be one of the earliest works of one of the 
brothers Anguier, who were born at Eu (17th cent.). — The Chapelle 
du CoUhge, built by the Jesuits in 1622-24, contains the monument 
of Henri of Guise, *le Balafr^ or 'the Scarred' (d. 1588), and his wife 
Catherine of ClSves (d. 1633), with their statues and bas-reliefs. — 
The Forest ofEu, 3 M. to the S.W., is a favourite spot for excursions. 

An electric tramway (20 c.) runs from the station vii the town (10 c.) 
to Le Trfyort and Mer$. — Branch-railway to (21V3 M.) Abbeville, see p. 14. 

A DiLiOENOB plies daily in summer from Eu to (6 M.) Ault (1 fr.) and 
(6 M.) Onival (1 fr. 80 c.). — Ault, or Bourg-d'AuU (H6t. St. Pierre or 
dee Bains; de France} de Parit. — Lodgings; Casino), is a small sea-bathing 
resort at the end of a narrow valley. — Onival (Bdt. Continental; Termitms; 
de la Plage. — Casino), another small bathing-resort, lies at the end of 
the clififs and at the beginning of a bank of shingle extending to beyond 
r5>/3 M.) Cayeux (p. 12). — The summer-resort of BdS'de-Cise (hotels) lies 
2V2 M. to the N.E. of Bu. 

A marshy district, between hills, is now traversed. The rail- 
way passes a little to the left of Mers (p. 37). — 1131/2 M. Le 
Triport - Mers (Buflfet-H6tel). 

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to Le TriTport MEBS. 3. Boutt. 37 

Le Triport. — Hotels (omn. to the station 60 e.)> HdTBL de la Plaos, 
B. from 5, B. 1V4) d^j. S^/t. D. 4. pens, from 10 fr. \ dx Fkance, R. from 3, 
B. 1, d^j. 8V2» D. *, pens, from 10 fr.5 pes Bains, B. from 4, B. 11/4, d^j. 3, 
D. SVzt pens, from^fr.; Bsllbvus, Quai Franfoif-Premier; DtrCojCMSBCB, 
Bue du Commerce 5, B. from 2, B. ^4* d^j. 2V2, D. 3, pens, from 7 fr.; all 
these near the sea. Hotel ds Oalais, in the npper part of the town, at 
some distance from the beach, d^j. 2V2 fr. 

8ea-Baths. Cabin 80, costume 35, drawers 30, ^peignoir' 20-25, towel 10, 
bathing attendant 60 c. — The beach at Mers is better. 

Casino. Adm. for 1 day 1-2 fr. 

British Yice-Oonsul, E. HarrUon Barker. 

Omnibus to Mer» or to Eu^ 80 c. — Electric tramway, see p. 86. 

Lt Triport, a town with 4985 inhab. , is situated at the mouth 
of the Breile, at the base of a lofty cliff. The harbour is chiefly 
used by fishing-boats and small trading-craft. Le Tr^port, however, 
from its proximity to Paris, is a very popular sea-bathing resort, 
in spite of its shingly beach, on which rises the Casino, A visitors' 
quarter is springing up on the top of the cliff, connected with the 
beach by a cable tramway threading a tunnel and by a flight of 
stairs with 378 steps. Fine view. 

The only noteworthy edifices in the old town are the H6Ul de 
Villt (with a small museum), erected on the foundations of a tower 
of the 16th cent. ; the iVe^ytert/, a timber house dating from the 
Renaissance period; and the Church of 8t. Jacques flBth cent.), 
which rises above the harbour. The chief objects of Interest in the 
last are the key-stones of the vaults, the Descent from the Gross in 
painted stone, and some quaint pictures. 

Kers. — Hotels (omn. V> f'.). HStel do Casino, pens, from 9 fr. 
Bellxvuk, B. Y4i d^j. 3, D. 3Va f'-t l>oth on the beach; obs Bains, B. 
from 8, B. */4t d^J. 8, D. 31/21 pens, from 7 fr. ; de la Plage, du Gommrrcb, 
DE l'Edbope, these three open all the year round. 

Sea-Baths. Cabin 80, costume 60, 'peignoir' 20, towel 10, attendant 45 c. 

Eleetric Tramway in summer to Tr4port £f^a</on (p . 36) eyery20min.(10c.). 

MerSy about 3/4 M. from Le Treport, lies at some distance from 
the right bank of the Bresle and has in consequence no harbour. The 
space between the cliffs and the sea is wider than at Le Treport, 
the beach, where the Casino (adm. free) is situated, is broader and 
less shingly. 

From Le Treport to Dieppe^ see p. 122. 

4. From Dunkirk to Arras (Paris). 

69»/« M. Bail way in l»/4-4hr8. (fares 12 fr. 85, Sfr. CO, 5fr. 60 c). — 
From London^ LeUh, Hull, and Liverpool to Dunkirk, see p. xiv. 

Dunkirk, Yj» Duvkerque. — Hotels. HAtbl du Cbapeau-Bouoe 
(PI. a; C, 4), Bue St. S^bastien 5, B. from 4, omn. 1/2 fr.; Hdx.-RKSTAURANT 
DBS Abcades, Place Jean-Bart 37, R. from 4, pens, from 11 fr.) Hdx. de 
Flamdre (PI. b \ C, 5), Rue Alexandre-Trois 18, R. from 2, pens, from 9V4 fr. ; 
DE LA Paix (PI. d; 0, 5), Bue David - d' Angers 4 ; du Lion-db-Fland«e 
(PI. e \ B, 5), R. from 21/3, pens. 8 fr. ; du Dix-neuvi^iie SiEole, (PI. c^ B, 5), 
Place de la Oare. 

Oaf^s and Bestaurants, in the Place Jean-Bart, Rue de la Marine 
(PI. C, 4), Bue du Quai (near the Bassin du Commerce), and at the station. 

38 Routed. DUNKIRK. 

abs. Per drive in the town U/a fr.*, to tbe sea-baths li/s fr.; per hour 2 fr. 

Tramways (10-26 c.) from tbe station to Halo-les-Bains (p. 40), Ti& the 
Place Jean-Bart and tbe harbour; to St. Pol-snr-Her (p. 40); etc. 

Steamers. To (7a«n, every Frid. ; to Le Havre, Granville^ St. Brieuc^ 
and Cherbourg^ every Wednesday. To OrecU Britain, see p. xiv. 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. G, 5), Bue Dupouy 12. 

British Oonsul, P. C. Sarell, Bue Gaspard-Kolo ; vice-consul, /. S. Wintle, 
— Ameriean Oonsular Agent, Benjamin Morels 76 Bue Emmery. 

English Ohureb (Fl. G, 3), Place de la Prison, services at 11 and 6.30; 
chaplain. Rev. W. J. Droughty U. A.^ i Avenue Faidberbe, Halo-les-Bains. 

Dunkirk, with 38,287 inbab., is the fourth commercial port in 
France and a fortress of the first class. Its strength Is largely due to its 
position in the Watteringuea, a district drained by means of canals 
and dykes, which in times of danger may be completely laid under 
water. The great majority of the inhabitants of this district are 
Flemings and speak little or no French. There is a small English 
colony at Dunkirk, which is annually re-inforced by summer-visitors. 

The name Dunkirk^ the ^church in the danes\ appears first about the 
9th or 10th century. The town belonged at first to the counts of Flanders, 
but from tbe close of the 13th cent, its possession was frequently disputed 
by the French kings. In 1646 tbe Great Cond^ besieged and took Dunkirk on 
behalf of Louis XIY., but in 1652 the Spaniards again made themselves 
masters of the town. Six years later Marshal Turenne defeated the Spaniards, 
on whose side Cond^ now fought, in the great Battle of the Dunes, and 
Dunkirk was placed in the hands of Cromwell, in return for the services 
of 8000 of his Ironsides, who had largely contributed to the victory. A 
small body of Snglisb Boyalists fought on the other side. The English 
fortified the port and built a citadel, but in 1662 Charles II. sold this 
important position to Louis XIV. for the sum of 5,000,000 livres. In the 
subsequent wars against England the privateers of Dunkirk wrought great 
havoc among the enemy's shipping, and at the Peace of Utrecht in 1713 
and again at the Peace of Paris in 1763 the English insisted on the 
destruction of the harbour. In 1793 Dunkirk offered a gallant resistance to 
the English, and was finally relieved by the victory at Hondscboote (p. 41). 

Though clean and well-built, Dunkirk, apart from its Harhour, 
is comparatively uninteresting. From the Bassin du Commerce (PI. B, 
0, 4, 3) the Quai des HoUandais leads to the S. to the Arriire-Port, 
on the N.W. side of which lies the Basain de la Marine. On the 
S.E. side is the Pare de la Marine (PI. B, 4, 5), the chief promen- 
ade of the inner town. Thence the street runs to the S., towards 
the railway-station, turning to the W. a little farther on and cross- 
ing a canal. To the N.E. of the Bassin du Commerce extends the 
outer harbour (comp. Plan). The chief trade of Dunkirk is in wood, 
grain, and wool. 

In the Rue de la Panne rises the church of 8t, John the Baptist 
(PI. B, C, 4; 18th cent), in which are a Christ by Van Dyck, a 
Holy Family by Guido Reni, and other interesting paintings. — The 
church of St, Eloi (PI. 0, 4), a little to the E., a Gothic edifice of 
the 16th cent, has double aisles, but the whole nave has been unduly 
shortened by the removal of the first bays. The Belfry (1440), a 
massive square tower of brick , 295 ft. high, is now separated from 
tbe church. ^ , 

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DUNKIRK. 4. Route, 39 

The Place Jean-Bart (PI. 0, 4), to the S., occupies the centre 
of the town. It is embellished with a bronze statue, by David 
d* Angers, of Jean Bart (1651-1702), the famous sailor and pri- 
yateer of DunMrk. The Rue des Yieux-Quartiers and then ihe Rue 
Royer, the third turning on the right, lead hence to the Theatre 
and the Mus^e. 

The Musie (PI. D, 4), onthe site of a former convent, the garden 
of which is now a promenade, is open to the public daily, except 
Mon., 12-4 (Sun. 10-6), from June 15th to Oct. 15th, and on Sun. 
and ThuTS., 12-4, during the rest of the year. Strangers may obtain 
access at other times. 

Room I. Models of ships, etc. — Room II, to the right. Medals, weapons, 
ethnographic and other collections. At the 4th window, to the right, Head 
of James II. of England, in wax, with the cap he wore on his death-bed. 
— Room III. Natural history collection. 

The next three rooms contain Paintings. — Boom IV. To the right, 
128. OMzey Festival in honour of Theseus; 467. Mme. DemorU-Breton^ Jean 
Bart landing at Dunkirk after the battle of Texel in 1694; Landscapes by 
Ptlouze (245) and others t 357. Weertt^ The swoon; 66. Boudin^ Trouville; 
317. Tattegrain, Louis XIV. visiting the battlefield of the Dunes ; 178. Le 
RouXf The mysterious stone of Pompeii ; 7. Baadei\ Washington bidding 
farewell to his mother after his election as President of the United States ; 
149. Jadin, Boar-hunt. — In the centre, 1. Carrier-Belleute^ Dancer fastening 
her shoe; 37. Tony-Noil^ Romeo and Juliet fmarble). 

Boom V. To the right, 188. X>e Mame^ Halt at a tavern; 340. Van de 
VtUde^ Sea-piece; 241. PaUl^ Italian landscape; 307. 8nayer$^ Cavaliers 
proceeding to battle; 230. Van der Neer^ Moonlight; 162. 0. de LairuUy 
Resurrection ; *133. Gitardt, View in Venice ; 116. Francten ihe Elder ^ Herodias 
and Salome; 291. Rubenti Assumption, sketch for the painting at Vienna; 
237. Palatnedes^ Happy meeting. — 2. AfffonOj Venus causing the anemone 
to spring from the blood of Adonis; 309. Snofersj Attack on a convoy; 
above the door, 224. Moueheron the Elder, Return from the hunt; 3. Albano^ 
Death of Adonis. — 284. Zorg^ Farm interior; 223. F. MoreeUe^ Portrait; 
69. Conca, Madonna appearing to St. Joseph Galasans. — 306. Snaytre^ 
Cavalry skirmish; 311. Bolimena, Assumption; 266. P. Po<<«r (?), Gattte ; 345, 
346. /. Vemeiy Sea-pieces. 

Room VI. To the right, 147. Hotbem ihe Younger (?), Portrait of Luther 
or Melanchthon; 101. DUrer (?), St. Jerome; 454. Pietro da Cortona, Massacre 
of the Innocents; 157, 168. Jouvenet^ Heads; 238. Patel^ Landscape; 286. 
Salvator Ro$a, 192. Van der Jfeulen, Cavalry engagements ; 394. David, Gen- 
sonn^ the Girondist; 334. Le Valentin (Jean de Boulongne)^ Guitar-player; 
239. Patelt Landscape; 196. Mignard, Duke of Burgundy, grandson of 
Louis XIV. ; J. de Reyn, 264, 266. Portraits, 267-269. St. Alexander delivered 
by angels, triptych with portraits of the donors; 172. lime, Vigie-Lebntn, 
Female portrait; 173. Leelere, Abduction of Europa; 183, 184. Vanloo, The 
artist and his wife; 196. Mignard, Louis XIV.; 278. Rigaud, Portrait of 
a steward. — 325. Teniers the Younger , Village feast; •254. Fr. Powrbue, 
Martyrdom of St. George, a triptych, pronounced by Michiels the artist's 
masterpiece; 118. Fyt., Still-life. — 150. Abr. Janeeem, Woman refusing to 
sacrifice to idols ; 358. Wildene^ Return from the hunt ; 156. /. Jordaene (?), 
Adoration of the Magi ; 146. Van Soeck, Camp i 260. Er. Quellin, St. Helena 
discovering the true Cross; 355. P. de Fo«(T), Dogs attacking a heron; 
180. Letellfer (1668-94), StilMife; 327. Tilburg, Topers; 138. Von Helmont, 
Toper; 283. Zorg^ Rustic interior; 356. M. de Voi. Portrait; 126. Van Ooyen, 
Sea-piece; 306. Snayere, Large landscape. — 243 bis. Peetere, Town and 
Harbour of Antwerp in 1625: 41. Cagnacci, Judith; 368. ZnecharelU, Adoration 
of the Magi. — Sculpture: 14. Chartroueee, Repentant Magdalen. 

Gn the first floor is i\ie Municipal Library, with upwards of 35,000 vols, 
and 87 MSS. r^^^^T^ 

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40 Routed. MALO-LE8-BAIN8. 

The Rue dea Vienx-Remparts leads from the Place dn Thtffttre 
towards Malo-les-Bains (see below), and near NoUre Dame det Dunee 
(PI. 0, 3), a pilgrim-resort, known also as the PetiU' ChapelUf is 
crossed by the tramway (see below). Glose by a Column of Victory 
was erected in 1893 on the site of the old ramparts to commem- 
orate the raising of the siege of Dunkirk in 1793. 

The Rne Gamot (tramway) leads back to the harbour, near the 
Tour de Leughenaer (PI. C, 3), nsed as a lighthouse. Following the 
tramway to the Place d^Armes, we reach the Hdtel de VilU (PI. 0, 4), 
the finest building in the town, which was rebuilt In 1901 in the 
neo-Flemish style. It is of red and white brick, and is sarmonnted 
by a belfry 246 ft. in height The statues around the building 
represent eminent natives. 

Tramways (p. 88) run to St. Pol-tur-Mer (9799 inhab.), iVs M. to the 
W. of the station, and to Malolea-Baina, to the N.E. of Dunkirk. 

Xalo-les-Bains. — Hotki.8. Cattno-SOtei (PI. d; D, 1), on the beach, 
B. from 3, d<j. 8, D. Si/t, pens, from 10 fr. ^ Sdt. d* VOcian (PI. e^ D, 2)^ 
B6t. W (Vl.t-^ D, 2), D. 8 fr.} de la Bmai$$emcej Avenue Bel- Air t dtt Jford, 
Avenue du Kursasl. — Bbstausants. *Cattno (see above), d^j. SVz, D. 
4 fr. t BeUevw^ on the beach. — 8ba Baths. Batm Belle-Plage, Baku du 
Cap-Nord; bath 76 c, 1 fr. incl. costume. — Malo-les-Bains (5761 iohab.) 
is a favourite an4 somewhat expensive sea-bathing resort, wiUi a spacious 
sandy beach, an esplanade IViM. long, numerous chalets to let, a kursasl 
(PI. D, 2), etc. It lA continued by Malo-Terminvs (Grand-H6tel Casino; Hdt. 
Modeme, R. from 3, pens, from 7 fr. ; de la Plage), which also has a kur- 
saal and a casino. 

FuoM DusKiBK TO FuBSBS (Ghent, etc.), 16 M., railway in 1 hr. (fares 

2 fr. 80, 1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 20 c). From (SVs M.) Qhyvelde, the last French 
station, a narrow-gauge line runs to Honaschoote (8 M.^ p. 41). At (18 M.) 
Adinktrke the Belgian customs-examination is made. — 10 M. Fumee (Hdt. 
Royal, etc.), see BaedekerU Belgium and Holland. 

From Dokkirk to Calais, 8OV2 M., railway in 1-lVs kr. (fares 5 fr, 2ft, 

3 fr. 66, 2 fr. 80 c). — At (21/2 M.) Coudekergue-Branehe this line leaves 
the Haaebrouck (Arras) railway to the left. 9Vs M. Loon-Plage (Hdt. des 
Bains) is an unpretending bathing-place. ISVs H. Bourbourg is the Junction 
for the line from Watten to Gravellnes. — 16 M. Oraveliaee (HOt. des Messa- 

f;eries ; du Commerce \ du Vingtiime-8i6cle), an uninteresting town with 6284 
nhab., is strongly fortified and has a port on the Aa^ near its embouchure in 
the North Sea. In the middle ages it belonged to the Counts of Glanders. 
In 1668 the French were defeated on the sands of Gravelines by the 
Spaniards under Egmont, who was assisted by the broadsides of an English 
fleet of ten sail*, but exactly one hundred years later the town was finally 
joined to France. The Spanish Armada was defeated and put to flight by 
the English fleet in 1688 oflT Gravelines. A large quantity of eggs and similar 
produce is annually shipped to England from tills port. — The line con- 
tinues to traverse a flat district, intersected by canals, and passes the 
suburban stations of at. Pierre and Lee Fontinettee before reaching (SOVzH.) 
CalaU (p. 8). 

The railway to Arra? leaves that to Calais (see above) to the 
right at (2V2 M.) Coudekerque-Branche. 

5 M. Bergnes (Ttte d*Or; Ange; Sauvage), a fortified town with 
5032 inhab., at the junction of three canals. It has frequently been 
captured by the French, English, Spanish, and Dutch, butsucoess- 
fiilly resisted the attack of the English in 1793. The church of 
8t, Martin, in the Gothic style, rebuilt in the 17th cent., with a 

Digitized by LjOOQIC 

DOUAI. 5. Route, 41 

lofty tower, contains several interesting paintings and a noteworthy 
high-altar. The Belfry is a Oothic brick erection of the 16th century. 
The Hdtel de Ville, in the Spanish style of the 17th cent., contains 
a small but interesting collection of paintings, chiefly collected from 
the convents of the town (comprising single examples of Van Dyck, 
Ribera, Terburg, Matsys, and Rubens) j adm. on application to the 

From Bergues a branch-railwsy runs to (S^/i M.) Hondaehoote (Hdt. 
du Sauvoffe), a small town with 3824 inhab. (formerly 20,000), 8 M. to the £. 
A monument erected in the public square in 1889 commemorates the victory 
gained by the French in 1793 over the British and their allies, which com- 
pelled the latter to raise the siege of Dunkirk. 

19 M. Cassel (Or. -Hdt. Casino, closed in winter; HCtel du 
Sauvage; du Lion- Blanc), a town with 3091 inhab., deriving its 
name from the 'Castellum Morinorum', which occupied the site in 
Roman times, is situated on the Mont Ccu$el (516 ft.), an abrupt 
hill, 2 M. from the station by road (electric tramway in 10 min., 
30 or 26 c, there and back 50 c). 

Its commanding and strong position made Cassel frequently the object 
of siege and capture, before it was finally annexed to France by the 
treaty of Nimwegen in 1678: and it has given name to three important 
battles (1071, 1828, and 1677). 

The town presents almost no points of interest, though its num- 
erous windmills give it a striking appearance from a distance. The 
terrace of the ancient fort commands a wide view. The old H6tel 
de Yille contains a small MuaSe, 

26 M. HAzebrouck and thence to (69V2 M.) Arras, see pp. 17, 18. 

5. From Amiens to Arras, Douai, and Valenciennes. 

74 M. Railway to Arras, 38V2 M., in 1-2 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 9ft, 4 fr. 70, 
3 fr. 5 c); from Arras to Douai, 16Vs H. , in 25-56 min. (fares 3 fr., 2 fr. 5, 

1 fr. 35 c.)5 from Douai to Valeneiennet, 20 M., in 'A-IV^ hr. (fares 3 fr. 70, 

2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 65 c). ~ From Paris to VcOencietmei, 155 M. in 3V4-4Va 1»m. 
(fares 28 fr. 10 c, 19 fr., 12 fr. 40 c). 

Amiens y see p. 24. The trains run in the direction of Paris as 
far as (3 M.) Longueau (pp. 23, 21), where they join the direct line 
from Paris to Arras. Thence to (38V2 M.)- Arras, see p. 21. 

On leaving Arras our line passes the railway to B^thune and 
•Calais (pp. 18, 16) on the left, and descends the valley of the ififcarpe. 
— 43t/2 M. Roeux; 48 M. Vitry-en-Artois, where Sigibert, King of 
Austrasia, was assassinated in 575 by the emissaries of Fredegonda; 
51 M. Corbehem, The towers of Douai now come in sight; the 
tallest belongs to the H6tel de VUle (p. 43). 

54 M. Douai. — Hotels. HStel dc Obano-Gbbf et du (yOMMBBOB 
(PI. a^ D, 3), Rue St. Jacques 20, R. from 2, d^j. 8, D. 3'/2 fr.; Hotel 
nn NouvEAU-MoNDE, Rue de Valenciennes 25 ; BuFFET-HdTEL, at the station, 
R. from 3, D. 8-3V2 fr., good; Dumetz, Place de la Station 6; 8x. Jacques, 
Place Camot. jr.... 

Restaurants. Bestawant des Palmien, Rue St. Jacques 40, good ; Ee*tavr- 
ant Bousiard, Terrafse St. Pierre 6. — Ca/4a in the Place d'Armes. 


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42 RouU 5. DOUAI. From Amiens 

0»b«. Per drive 80 C, per hr. H/i fr. for 1-2 pere., i fr. 20 c. and 2 fr. 
for 3 pers., 1 fr. 60 c. and 2^/2 fr. for 4 pers.; double fare at night. — 
Electrio Tramways. From the Station (PI. B, 8) vi% the Place d'Armes to 
the Place VHMller (PI. 0, 5; 10 c.)-, from Dorigniu (comp. PI. C, 1) via the 
Place d'Armes to Sin-le-Noble and to Aniche (comp. PI. E, 6). — Po9i A 
Telegraph Office (PI. 0, 3), Eue du B^gninage 11. 

Douaif a town with 33,247 inhab., is situated on the canalized 
channel of the Scarpt, It is an industrial centre of some importance. 
The fortifications have been demolished. . 

Douai is a tovirn of great antiqaity, having probably grown up origin- 
ally round a Gallo-Boman fort. In the wars carried on at various times 
by the French against the English, Flemish, Germans, and Spaniards the 
town often suffered siege and capture. In 1479 , however, it successfully 
resisted the attack of Louis XI., whose discomfiture is still celebrated 
every July by the FSte de Gayant, at which the giant Gayant and his 
family (made of wicker-work), dad in mediaeval costumes, perambulate 
the town to the lively strains of the *air de Gayant'. In 1629 the town 
passed under the dominion of the Spaniards. In l667 Louis XIV. captured 
the town, and though the French were expelled in 1710 by the Duke of 
Marlborough and Prince Eugene, they made good their footine again in 

1712, and their possession was confirmed by the treaty of Utrecht in 

1713. — The Boman Catholic university founded here in 1852 to counteract 
the Protestantism of the Netherlands had a brilliant but brief career. The 
College of English Benedictines (Rue St. BenoU), founded in 1560 for the 
education of English priests, still has about 100 students. In 1610 an Eng- 
lish translation .of the Old Testament for Boman Catholics was published 
at Douai \ and the English Boman Catholic version of the Scriptures, in- 
cluding the Hew Testament translated at Bheims in 1582, is generally 
known as the Douai or Douay Bible. — Douai is the birthplace of Giovanni 
da Bologna {Jean de Bologne or de Douai; 1524-1606), the sculptor, and of 
Jean Bellegambe ifie Elder (ca. 1470-1532), the painter, sumamed ^Maitre des 

The street leading to the W. from the station brings us to the 
handsome Place Camot (PI. D, E, 3), the principal promenade, 
near which is the Mus^e (p. 43). Thence the Rue St Jacques and 
its continuation the Rue de Bellain run to tjie S.W. to the Place 
d'Armes (PI. C, D, 4). 

The church of St. Pierre (PI. C, D, 3), to the right in the Rue 
St. Jacques, rebuilt in the loth cent, is remarkable only for its 
huge tower, dating from the 16th cent, and occupying the whole 
breadth of the facade. It contains several paintings of the French 
school. — Near this church, Rue du Clocher-St-Pierre 19, is the 
Maison des Remy^ a Renaissance house of the 17th cent., restored 
in 1856. 

The church of Notre- Dame (PL D, 4), near the Place d'Armes, 
contains the celebrated *Altar-piece of Anchin, painted in 1620 by 
J. Bellegambe the Elder (see above). Visitors are admitted to the 
sacristy, where the painting hangs, from 9 to 12 and from 2 to 5, 
except on Sun. (50 c). 

The work consists of nine oaken panels, representing, on the outside, 
Christ enthroned between the Madonna, the donor (who is presented by 
his patron, St. Charlemagne), and some monks of Anchin, headed by 
St. Benedict j on the five interior panels the Trinity is seen surrounded by 
members of the Church Triumphant (254 figures). — In the sacristy is also 
a curious mystical representation of the Virgin, of the 15th century. 


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to Valenciennes, DOUAI. 5. Route, 43 

In the garden in front of the chnroh is a bronze statue of Maree- 
line Deabordes -VcUmore (i7SQ'iSb9), the poetess, and on the far 
side the Hospital (PI. D, E, 4^ 17th cent.). — Farther on is the 
Porte de Valenciennes (15th cent.), outside which is a Public Park 
(PL D,E, 4, 5) on the site of the old fortifications (band on Thurs.). 

The ♦H6tbl db Villb (PL C, 4), to the left of the Rue de la 
Mairie, the most notable edifice In the town, is a fine monument 
of Gothic architecture, partly of the 15th century. Above it rises 
a fiye-storied Belfry^ 130 ft. high, the upper part of which is cren- 
elated and fianked with turrets and surmounted by a spire with a 
lion bearing the banner of Flanders. The interior court, the fine 
Gothic chapel, the Salle des Fetes, the Salle de la Rotonde, and 
the Salon Blanc may be inspected. 

The Rue de la Mairie leads hence to the Place Thiers (PL 0, 4), 
with the monument to the Illustrations de Douai^ or famous natives 
of Douai. 

On the other side of the Scarpe, beyond the Place Thiers, is the 
Jardin des Plantes (PL A, 3, 4), iu which is a Musie Commercial 
(adm. Thurs. and Sun., 1 to 4 or 5). Beyond the Jardin des 
Plantes is the Porte d' Arras (PL A, 4), a remnant of the medisBval 
fortifications. In this neighbourhood also is the church of 8t. Jacques 
(PI. B, 3), the interesting altar-piece of which represents a miracle 
of the year 1254. The Rue Campion almost opposite the church 
leads to the Palais de Justice (PL C, 3, 4), in a building formerly 
belonging to an abbey. The ancient hall of the ^Parlement de 
Flandre', which met in Douai after 1709 (now occupied as an 
appeal-court), is adorned with good paintings. 

The *Mxj8BB (PI. D, 3), in the Rue Fortier, a street running 
from the Scarpe to the Place Garnot, is open to the public on Sun. 
& Thurs., 11-4 or 5; to visitors after 9 a.m. on other days for a fee 
(ring at the small door on the left). The exhibits are provided 
with explanatory labels. 

Ground Floor. — At the end of the gallery to the left of the vestibale 
are two glass-cases: *i762. Ch. Corbet, Bust: 825, 1006. DelavilU, Terracottas. 

Sculpture Gallbbt, to the left. — ist Bay. Antique works: eight 
marble busts and reproductions in plaster. — 2Dd Bay. Renaissance works, 
chieHjhyOiovannidaBoloffna(Beey.^): ^934.SamsonsmitiE^ the Philistines, 
original model in terracotta; bas-reliefs ; under glass, ^9^. Christ, terra- 
cotta original, 993. Hercules strangling Antseus, 1068, 1059. Pissatore. At 
the end, *877. Marble bust of Christ. -^ The 3rd Bay contains modern 
works by Bra^ Laowt (both of Douai). Carpeaux, Rodin, and others. 

Firat Floor. Picture Gallert. — On the staircase : 19T7. DetailU^ The 
Battle of Champigny. — Boom I: from right to left, 2083. TJajfa^M*', Black- 
smiths; 148. Fromentin, Street in Algeria; •77. Corot, Landscape; 1668. 
Fantin^LatouTy Grapes; 2066. Demont-Breton, Rising tide; 2043. L. Boilly, My 
little soldiers. — 175. Harpigni$», The Piccola Marina at Sorrento; 129. 
Dutilleux, Landscape; 40. Boillp, Tbe festiyal of the small altars; 1657. 
Berton^ Brumaire; 1071. Demont-Breton, The family; 195. /«a6«y. Smugglers ; 
1993. Eug. Delaeroix, Portrait of Bellinger. — 1594. Dutilleux, Landscape; 
966. A. Dtmont, Brick-deldi •760. /. Breton. Fisher girl; ^m. Breton^ 749. 
Winter-night in Artois, 2041. Hail. — 764. FranfaU, Path through the 
corn; 758. Courbet, Reflection; 54. Bueqwt, Banks of the Meuse. — In the 

44 Route 5. DOUAI. FVom Amiens 

centre: SoiuHn, Sketch of a monument to Dupleix fp. 74) ^ 2026. E. Breton^ 
Church in the eyening. 

EooM II. •204. LargiUi^€j Portrait of a lady ; 1234. L. da Vtnd, The 
Infant Christ and St. John^ 781. Bastanoy Annunciation; 747. F. da Ccrtona^ 
Providence commanding the present and the future. — 1720. Detbordes^ 
Vaccination; 759. David. Mme. Tallien (1807j; 2000. Ziem. StiU-life; 1982. 
Bourgogne^ Prayer; 1990. E. Breton, The song of the nightingale; 1995. 
Deully^ Orpheus ; lti75. DuHlUux^ 174. JBanoteav^ Landscapes. — 1637. BeUiniy 
Madonna; 776. Monnoyer^ Flowers; 1117. Clowt^ Anne de Buren$ *7M. 
Bordone^ Venetian lady ; 320. Xibera, Mathematician. — 777. Paniniy Land- 
scape with ruins; 1832. Le Sidaner, Extreme unction; 1889. Dvhtm, 
St. Genevieve; 2019. Frangaitj Margin of a wood; 1831. E. Breton, Church 
of Courrieres. — 231, 230. J. B. Martin^ Battles; 807. School of PtimaUeeio, 
La Belle Paule (who presented the keys of Toulouse to Francis I. on 
his solemn entry into that town). — In the centre: 2088. Mme. Duhem, 
The Tour des Dames ; 2046. Lantara, Landscape; 1089. School of Giotto, 
^Colmo' or birth-tray, a curious Italian object painted on both sides. 

Boom III. 44. Bosch (more probably Feter Hupt), Trials of Job (grot- 
esque); 283. Van Orley(7), Madonna and Child; 26. J.Bellegambe the Younger, 
Dead bishop lying in state; 61. Brueghel the Elder, The tower of Babel. — 
82. Cranach, Portrait of Calvin's wife; 1666. W. C. Dupster, Mandoline- 
player; 384. Vinciboom, VUlage fair; 332. Ruben$, (Sailing of St. Matthew; 
*177. Ifeda, Still-life; •iSi. Van Dyck, Prometheus; 1640. Berck-Beyde, Quay 
at Haarlem; *52. P. Brueghel the Elder, Village attacked by disbanded 
soldiers; 7w. A. van Everdingen, Torrent; 265. Van Noort, Adoration of 
the Magi; 1598. S. Francis Miracle of Notre-Dame de Cambcn; *ld8. 
C. van Everdingen, Portrait (1633); 389. De Voi the Elder, Portrait. — 362. 
Falmedee Stevene, Portrait; 130. Van Dyci, Christ mourned by angels; 
Van der Meulen, 238. Entry of Louis XIV. and Maria Theresa into Douai, 
239 (farther on), Louis XIV. before Lille ; 1167. Moreelse, Portrait ; 784. Rubene, 
Pan and Ceres; 237. Van der Meulen, Louis XIV. ; 244. Ant. More, Portrait. — 
197. Van Z>yc*, Portrait; 790. Tenter* the Elder, Sorcery; 331. Rubens, 
Vintage; 181. Van Belmont, Village rejoicings; 131. Van Dyck, St. Benedict 
receiving 8S. Placidus and Maurus at Subiaco ; *182. B. van der Belst, 
Portrait; 87. Cuyp, Portrait of a child; *81. French School of the 15th Cent, 
(Marmion?), Siren at her toilet; 1639. Van Beest, Horse- fair; 312. Van 
RavestHn, Portrait; 748. Van Brdeelenkam, Family of Go vaert Flinck ; 1979. 
B. van Orley, Folly; 183. School of Cologne^ Portrait. — *234. Marims 
van Romerstoael, St. Jerome meditating on the Last Judgment; 125. Van 
Orley, Crucifixion of St. Peter. — In the centre: •23. /. Baiegambe (he 
Elder (p. ^), Shutters of a triptych in honour of the Immaculate Con- 
ception (1526); *406. Jean Privost de Mons (picture painted on both sides), 
Virgin appearing to a Cistercian monk and the Last Judgment; *2042. 
Belleganibe tJie Elder, Immaculate Conception, sketch for the central panel 
of No. 23. 

Returning to the vestibule we enter the rooms on the right. Boom I 
belongs to the Ethnographical Collection, which is continued in two rooms 
to the left of the vestibule. — Room II. Paintings. To the right, 1105. 
P. Veronese, Girl with bouquet; 66. Callot, Pillagers; 166. Duplessis. Ben- 
jamin Franklin; 42. Bofsselat, Funeral in the church of Dreux. In the 
glass-cases in the centre: 240. Mignard, Duchess of Longueville; miniatures, 
drawings, etc. ; *669. David d!* Angers, Bust of Merlin, a law>'er of DouaL 
Room III. 173. Oust, The ambulance ; 241. P. Mignard, Ecce Homo ; 1095, 
1096. School of F. Boucher, Narcissus, Jupiter, and Calisto. — Room IV 
contains X'h^ Archcteological Collection, including Roman antiquities found at 
Bavai (p. 49). 

On the First Floor is the Public Library, with 90,000 vols, and 
1820 MSS. (open on week-days, 9 to 12 and 2 to 4 or 5). The collection 
of coins also is deposited here. 

The Collection of Natural Bistoi'y, said to be one of the largest in 
France, is distributed on the ground-floor (mineralogy), 1st floor (geology, 
botany), and 2nd floor (zoology). 

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to Valenciennes. SOMAIN. 5. Route. 45 

The Mu»4e Douaisfen^ or local bisioric&l museum, in Ibe laboratory- 
building on the left side of tbe garden, is open free on Sundays. 

The quarter of the town hehiud the Mus^e is to a large extent 
occupied hy the Arsenal, harraoks, and schools. 

From Douai a branch-line runs to (28 U.) Tournai (p. 60), vi& (13 H.) 
Orchies (p. 50) and (20^/2 M.) Rutnes, the first station in Belgium. Beyond 
(13/4 M.) Pont-de-la-De^l€ the railway traverses the coal-field of L^EsearpelUy 
and passes, on the right, the zinc-works of the 6oci^t€ des Asturies. 

Another branch-line of local interest runs from Douai to (20t/t H.) 
Pont-ii'Marcq vi& (11 M.) Moru-en-Pivile or FuBlle^ where Philippe IV le 
Bel defeated the Flemish in 1304. A cavern on the W, side of the hill 
is known as the Pcu de Roland^ and according to tradition the slain of 
both armies were buried here. 

From Douai to LilU^ see B. 61^ to CamhrcU (Paris), see p. 63. 

On quitting Douai the train runs for a short distance in the 
direction of Arras, then turns to the left. To the right is the line 
to Camhrai. — 5? M. Montigny-en-Oitrevent^ with a modern Renais- 
sance chtteau, seen among the trees to the left. 

61 1/2 M. Somain (H6t. Bourlet; Lavallard; Mia), an industrial 
town and centre of the local coal-trade, has a population of 6545. 
Railway to Camhrai and Busigny, see .pp. 63, 61. 

FitoM SoMAiN TO P&BUWELZ VIA Anzin , 24 M. , railway in l*/* hr. 
(fares 8 fr. 15, 2 fr. 70, 1 fr. 75 c). This line runs through one of the 
most important coal-distrlicts in the N. of France. Nearly every station 
has its coal-mine and miners^ colony, which form the characteristic features 
in the scenery. — 6 M. Denain (Hdt. Modeme; de VBurope), a town with 
24,564 inhab., at the junction of the Scheldt and the Selle^ carries on 
considerable manufactures of steel, sugar -candy, spirits, etc. A steam- 
tramway connects Denain with Valenciennes. — 9V2 V., Hirin, — 11 M. 
Bt. Vaast-la-Haut, an outlying suburb of Valenciennes, is the headquarters 
of the Compagnie d'Anzin, a large coal-mining society founded in 1757 
(mining museum). — 12 M. Anzin (H^it. Ste. Barbe)^ with 14,3S7 inhab. , 
on the Scheldt, is practically a suburb of Valenciennes (tramway to the 
Place d'Armes, 11/4 M.). Besides the works of the Compagnie d^ Anzin (see 
above) there are numerous foundries, workshops, and glass-works in the 
town. In the public square is the Monument of Fontaine^ inventor of 
the parachute now used in lowering the cages into the mines. — At 
(14Vs M.) Bruay (pop. 7432) the line joins the railway to (2 H.) Valen- 
ciennes, and farther on it skirts the forest of Kaismes (see p. 46). 17V2 M. 
Fre$n€M (pop. 6719), where the first vein of coal in this district was 
discovered, in 1720, is also a station on a line from St. Amand to Blano- 
Misseron (see p. 4^. — I8V2 M. Oond4-sur.r£scaut (H6t. du Chevreuil; 
du Grand' Cer/)^ a fortified town with 5310 inhab., is situated at the 
oonfiuence of the Scheldt and the Hayne and on the canal from Cond^ 
to Hons (14 M.). Gond^, which gives name to the princes of Condd, 
daims a very high antiquity. Since the treaty of Nimwegen (1678) it 
has belonged to France. In the Place Verte are the ancestral castle of 
the princes of Cond^, dating from 1410, and the Churchy with a curious 
tower, dated 1606. Steam-tramways ply to Vieux-Cond^ and Valenciennes. 
The road leaving Condd by the Porte de Tournai and traversing the wood 
of the Hermitage leads to Bon-Seeovrs (hotels), a favourite summer- 
resort on a sandy eminence, belonging half to France, half to Belgium. 
It is connected with Valenciennes by tramway. — 20 M. Vi«ux-Cond4 
rT777 inhab.) is the last French stetion. — 24M. Piruwelt, the first Belgian 
station, on the line from Tournai (p. 60) to Mons (p. 74). 

A branch-line runs from Somain to the important coal - mines of 
(21/2 M.) Aniche and (9V2 M.) AuUgny-au-Bae (Cambrai; p. 63) ^ and ^^other 
\ii (6 M.) Marchiennes, a small industrial town, to (I2V2 M.) OrcMe* (p. ou). 


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46 Route 5. VALENCIENNES. From Amiens 

The next stations are (67 M.) Walters and (70/2 M.) Raismes 
(Clef d'Or), an industrial village, with 7652 inhahitants. 

The Forest o/Raitmesy which extends nearly to the Baths of St. Amand 
(p. 50) and aflfords picturesque walks, may be conveniently reached from 
the stations of Bruay (p. 45), Beuvrages (p. 60), Baismes-Vicoigne (p. 50), 
and St. Amand (p. 60), or by tramway. 

The railway now curves to the right, joins the line to Lille (on 
the left), crosses the Ptfruwelz line near Bruay (p. 45), and coalesces 
with the railway from Mons. 

74 M. Valenciennes [Buffet-Hdtel^ at the station). — Hotels. 
*6K.>HdT. DD CoMMBKcB (PI. a^ B, 3), Placc des Hots 3, with electric 
light and baths , R. from 3, B. IV4, d^j. SVz, D. 4, omn. V« fr- » H^t. 
DB Flamdbb (PI. b ; C, 4), Bue de la Halle 2 (omn.); du Nobd (PI. c \ C, 4), 
Bue du Qaesnoy 66 (omn.); HdT.-BcsTAUSANT CoeMiN (PL d; B, 4), Place 
d'Armes 24; HSt. St. Jacques (PL e; B, 3), Place St. Jean 11; des 
V0TAGEDB8 (PL f; B, 3), Rue St. Jacques 3; de l'Univebb (PI. g; B, 3), 
Bue de Paris 54, d^j. or D. 2V2 f^. — Oaf^s in the Place d*Armes. 

Gabs. Per drive, 1-3 pers. 80 c, per V« hr. 1 fr., per hour iVa fr. ; 
for more than 3 pers. 1 fr. 20 c, IV2, or 2 fr. ; double fare at night (11-6; 
10-7 in winter). 

Steam Tramways. From the Marehi avx Berbe* (PL B, 3; p. 47) vi4 
the Station (PL A, 2): 1. To Amin (comp. PL A, 1; p. 45), Raisme* (see 
above), and St. Amand (p. 50) ;• 2. To Condi-sur-V E$caut and Bon-Seeow* 
(see p. 45), with branch from Gond€ to VUux- Condi (see p. 45) and 
Hergniet; 6. To Denain and Lourches (p. 63). — From the end of the Rw 
de Mons (PL D, 3) : 4. To St. Saulvey OnHaing, Btdnt-Miaseron^ and Qw»^«ra<n 
(p. 49). Fares: 2 kilom^res 20 d; 15 c; 5 kiL 40 & 80 c; 10 kiL 75 A 
50 c. ; 15 kil. 1 fr. & 70 c. ; etc. 

Post ft Telegraph Offloe (PL G, 3), Bue de la Vi^warde 8. 

Peotestamt Chubch (PL A, 3), Bue de Paris 66. 

Valenciennes, a town with 31,759 inhah., and formerly strongly 
fortified, is situated at the junction, of the Scheldt and tiie Rhdn- 
elle. The manufacture of 'Valenciennes lace' has died out, but the 
town contains important iron and other factories , and is the chief 
sugar-market in the N. of France. 

The origin of Valenciennes is ancient, and its name may possibly be 
derived from that of Valentinian I., the Boman emperor. At first the 
capital of a small independent principality, the town afterwards passed 
to the counts of Hainault and endured many sieges. Since the treaty of 
Nimwegen in 1678 it has belonged to France. Valenciennes is the birth- 
place of a large number of celebrated men, many of whom are represented 
in medallions round the statue of Froissart (p. 49). Besides the latter, 
Mme. d''Epinay, the authoress, Antoine, Louis, and Francois Watteau, 
J.B.Pater, Pujol, and Harpignies, the painters, Andr^ Beauneveu, H.Lcanaire, 
Oarpeaux, HioUe, Crank, and L. Fagel, the sculptors, were natives of 
this town. 

From the new railway-station (PL A, 2) we tuyn to the right 
and enter the town by the Avenue Ferrand, passing the huge build- 
ing of the Academies (PL A, B, 3), in which are schools of art and 
music and a Museum of Natural History, especially rich in minerals. 

The Lycie (PL B, 3), close by, occupies part of an old college 
founded by the Jesuits in the 16th cent., in another part of which 
is the Municipal Library, containing about 38,600 vols, and 800 MSS. 

Sopen on week-days, 10-1 & 6-8), and the small MusSe BirUzeeh 
books, etc.). 

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to VaUncUnnes. VALENCIENNES. 5. Route. 47 

The Squaie Carpeanx. (PI. B, 3), a little farther on, is em- 
bellished with a hronze statue, by Carpeaux, of Antoine Watteau 
(1684-1721), the painter. The four figures surrounding it represent 
Italian comedy. — In the same square rises the church of 8t, Oery 
(PL B, 3), a Gothic edifice dating from 1225 hut frequently restored, 
with an elegant tower of 1862. The fine wood-carvings in the choir 
(16-18th cent.) illustrate the life of St. Norhert, the founder of 
the PraBmonstratensian order. From this point the Rue de Paris leads 
via the MarchS aux Berbes fPl. B, 3 ; tramway-office) to the hand- 
some Place d^Armes (PL B, 3, 4), the timber dwellings in which 
date from the period of the Spanish occupation (17th cent.). — 
The *H6tbl db Villb, in this Place, is the most interesting build- 
ing in Valenciennes. It was reconstructed in 1612, but the impos- 
ing facade was again rebuilt in 1867-68. The latter consists of a 
low of Doric columns supporting a similar row of the Ionic order, 
above which are Caryatides bearing an open gallery, a pediment 
with sculptures by Carpeaux representing the Defence of Valen- 
ciennes, and a campanile of two stories. The second floor is devoted 
to a Musie of Painting and Sculpture^ with a very extensive collec- 
tion of works of the Flemish School (open to the public on Thurs. 
& Sun., and on other days on application, 10-12 & 2-4; entrance 
by the first archway). New building, see p. 49. 

Room I. Drawings, engravings, Flemish tapestry (16th cent.), etc. 

Boom II. Sculpture. 5oo. BioUe (p. 46), Model for the war-monument at 
Cambrai; 690. Trt^fot^ Shepherd overcoming a mad dog; 612. Ltmaire 
Cp. 46), Girl and butterfly; 631. L. Fagel (p. 46), Beheading of St. Denis; 
005. BiolUy Temptation in the Wilderness (bas-relief). Paintings: 108. Lor. 
di Credi, Madonna; 289. Dem. da Volterra, Dead Christ; 442. French School 
of the 16th Cent, (not Flemish), Adoration of the Child ; 447. German School 
'/the leth Cmt,^ Ecce Homo; Flemish School of the ISth Cent., 443. Death 
uf the Virgin, 444. Adoration of the Magi; 99. Coxie, Christ bearing the 
Cross; 7W. Castas, The Golden Horn (water-colour). 

Boom III. Sculptures, paintings, ^Tapestry. 27. Carpeaux, Model of the 

tatue ofUgolino in theTuileries garden. — Paintings: to the right, 177, 

.'8. QuenHn de Latowr, Portraits (water-colour); 318, 214. Momal, Adam and 

•:::ve; 275. Abel de Pujol, Danaids. Left wall: 79. Ghigot, Escape of Manns 

rom the myrmidons of Sulla; 139. Olaize, St. Elizabeth of Hungary. — 

^' J72. Aha de Pujol, Portrait of himself. 

Boom IV. Front wall, 128. Jules Leonard, Physician of the poor ; 205. 
Miehd, Forest; 59. E. Breton, Before the storm. — 176. De la Hire, Buins; 
75. Charlet, Bavine; 356. /. Vemel, Sea-piece; 100. A. Coypel, A (jhristian 
virgin. In the centre are drawings. 

Boom V. 348. De Troy, J. de Julienne; Louis Watteau, 377-380. Morning, 
Noon, Vespers, Evening, 381. Dismissal; 73. Ph. de Champaigne, Dead 
nobleman; 97. Le Bourguignon, Cavalry fight; 38. Aved, Mme. de Tencin; 
"393. F. Watteau, Minuet under an oak; 226. Nattier, Due de Bouiflers; 
drawings by Ant. WaUeau; 291. H. Rigaud. Portrait; 414. (Tnknown Artist, 
Admiral Coligny; 68. Callet, Louis XVI.; 376. Ant. Watteau, Antoine Pater, 
sculptor of Valenciennes; *351. Le Valentin (J. de Boulongne), Tavern- 
concert; 187. Louis Lenain or J. Miel, Card-players; /. B. Pater (p. 46), 
•248. Open-air concert, *249. Recreation in the country, 246. Dove's nest, 
247. Soiree; 875. .in^ Watteaui^i), Scene in a park; 4L6. Unknown Artist, 
Louis XIV. — In the centre: 667. HiolU, Narcissus (marble). 

Boom VI. 182. Layrand, Ahh6 Lisztt 170. Jordaens, Cradle; 162. 
J. van Huchtenbwg, Attack on a convoy; 343. II Oreco, Christ on the Cross; 

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345. Van Ttiburg, Toper. — *370. 2f. de Fo*, Adoration of the Magi; 223. 
Mtaant (Ib22-l700), Landscape i 01. 'JJell-Jire' lifveffhel^ Toil devoured by 
Veury, and the fsurcr devoured by the Devil j 285. Van Noort^ Dead Christ; 
50, 49. Van Btoemetty Horses; 384. Bnayert^ Landscape; 450. FUmUh School 
of the 17th Cent., Death; *169. Jordaens, Twelfth Night; 217 (above), J. 
Momper, Cattle-market; 96. P. da Cortona, Herodias; •326. Seghera, St. Eloi 
(Eligius) at the feet of the Virgin. — 312, 813. Rubeiu det BataUlet. Cavalry 
attacks; 361. Vinckboon»{^)y Large forest-scenej 6, 7. Van AeM, Still-life; 
228, 229. Ifeeffs the Younger, Ohureh-interiors; 332. Rottenhammer and 
P. BrU, Niobe. 

EooM VII. 206. Van Mieris, Pan and Syrinx; 11. Van ArUvelt^ Sea- 
piece; 62. ^ Hell-fire^ Brueghel, Christ preaching; 3. Al, Adriaenseene, Fish- 
merchant; 141. Van Goyen. Landscape; 833. Siberecht* 0), Peasints at a 
farm; 69. CaJvaeW, Pietk; 40. Van Baslen, Abduction of Europa; 124. Van 
Dyck^ Portrait; 220. Moucheron^ Landscape; 87. Corneliuen^ Charity { 70. 
Aloneo Cano, Madonna; 448. Unknown ArtUt, Madonna and Child with 
St. John. — 428. T. de Keyeer^ A family of ship-owners; 71. CarrtMo de 
Miranda, Don Carlos, afterwards Charles II. of Spain (d. 1700) ; 163. Huye- 
mam. Landscape; Van Udeny 850. Abduction of Proserpine, 349. Ceres and 
the nymph Cyane; 426. Italian School of the 16th Cent,, Altar-piece; 399. 
Wynants. Landscape; 164. Janssens, Party; 403. Zurbaran, Adoration of the 
Child ; 174. Van Laar, Landscape. — The glass cases contain antiquities, 
lace, small carvings, etc. 

Boom VIII. 63. '■ Velvet* Brueghel, Landscape; 806. Bubent, Ecstasy of 
St. Francis of Assisi; 363. Van de Velde, Sea-piece; 237. Van Oott, Ador- 
ation of the Shepherds; 270. Pourbus the Younger, Marie de M^dicis; 60. 
Brouwer, Flemish tavern-scene; 303. Rottenhammer, Madonna and Child, 
with St. John and angels, on copper (reduced copy after Andrea del 
Sarto); 269. Pourbue the Younger {1), Portraits of children; 154. De Heem, 
Still-life; '898. Ph. }Yowerman, Hunters setting out; 386. Van Son, Still - 
Hfc; •lOi. Be Grayer, Our Lady of the Eosary (1641); 268. Pourbue the 
Younger, Portrait; •SU. SaftUoen, Landscape; 89. Van Baelen, Mercury 
regarding Herse and Aglaura on their way to the temple of Minerva; 129. 
Fr. Francken the Elder, Charles V. assuming the monastic dress ; 4. Van AeUt, 
Still-lifo; 342. Teniere the Younger, Interior of a grotto; *i^. Van Dyck, 
Martyrdom of St. James and his converted accuser. — Rubent, *307, 808, 
303, 810 (on the back), St. Stephen^s speech, Stoning of Stephen. Entomb- 
ment of the saint, Annunciation, an admirable triptveh, 13-14 ft. high, 
painted in 1623 for the abbey of St. Amand (p. 50). — 1. Van Achen, Judg- 
ment of Paris; 171. Jordaene, Judgment of Midas; 172. Q. Cetari 
(Cavaliere d*Arpino), Diana and Acteeon; 287. Quinkhard, Interior; 22i. 
Moreelee, Portrait; 125, 126. Van Dyck, St. Paul, St. Matthew; •311. Rubens, 
Descent from the Cross;. 110. Cuyp, Raising of Lasarns; ♦203. Marinue 
van Romertwael, Banker and his wife; 385. Snyderi, Poultry, game, fish, 
and fruit; 250. Martin Penyn (an Antwerp artist whose works are ex- 
ceedingly scarce ; 1575-1646), St. Bernard triumphing over the schismatic 
William of Aquitaine, in presenting the Host 1o him; 332. Snayei's, Wood- 
land landscape; i(Xl. Zueearelli. Cascades at Tivoli; *bi. Bosch (or perhaps 
Peter Buys?), St. James and the sorcerer; 333. Snayers, Landscape; 28i6. 
Adr. van Utrecht, Christ at Bethany. — lOG. De Grayer, St. Peter s repentance ; 
337. Soolemaker, Cattle-market. — In the centre, 201. French School of ca. 
1620 (perhaps School of Amiens, but not by S. Marmion, d. 1489), Panel 
of an ex-voto painting. Sculptures : 44. Carpeaux, Model of the statue of 
Ant. Watteau (p. 47); 559. Hiolle, Arion (gilded plaster). Sevres vases. 

Boom IX, on the other side of the sculpture-gallery. No. 224. C. ^'an• 
teuil, Sanbeam; 184. Lehoux^ Bellerophon, conqueror of theChimeera; 180. 
Layraud, Bulls; 152. Harpignies, The valley of the Aumance; 114. Bug. 
Delacroix, Fall of the Titans; 155. Henner, St. Jerome; 296. Roll, Strike 
of miners; 151. Harpignies, The old nut-tree. — Sculptures by Hiolle and 
Garpeaux, etc. 

Room X contains farther works by Garpeaux, chiefly models. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

VALENCIENNES. 5. Route, 49 

The Rue St. Gery leads from the N.E. corner of the Place d'Arme 
to the Jardin Froiasart (PI. C, 3), with a fine marble Statue of Jean 
FroUaart, the illustrious chronicler (d. about 1410). The statue is 
surrounded with 10 bronze medallions of eminent natives of the town. 

The large Hotpital, on the other bank of the Scheldt, was built in the 
iSth cent, from funds raised by a tax of two 'liards' (about ^/td.) on every 
pot of beer drunk in Hainault. 

From the other end of the Jardin Froissart the Rue des Gapucins 
leads to the Place Veite (PI. D, 3, 4), in which is the Music Qustave 
Crauk^ with works and relics of that sculptor (open free on Sun., Mon., 
& Thurs., 2-4; at other times on application). At the end of the Rue 
Arthur-Dinaux is the Monument de la Lifense de 1793 (PI. C, D, 3), 
by Grauk. On the other side of the Place Verte, and facing the 
Boulevard Watteau, is the new Musee (PI. D, 3, 4), now in course 
of erection. 

The Boulevard Watteau and Boulevard Garpeaux have been laid 
out on the site of the former ramparts. To the left and right of the 
latter are the Pare de la Rhonelle and the Square de la Dodenne 
(PI. G, 5), with the old tower of that name. 

The Rue Abel-de-Pujol, beyond the square, leads to the principal 
church of the town, Notre- Dame-du-Saint- Cordon (PI. G, 4). This 
interesting modem edifice, built in the style of the 13th cent., is 
richly decorated and has good stained-glass windows by L^veque. 

Pleasant Walks and Exgubsions may be made in the neighbourhood 
of Valenciennes, with the aid of the various tramways mentioned at p. 46. 
Good walkers may go as far as Amin^ Raismety or Denctin; while the 
Foreit of RoUimm (p. 46), St. Atnand (p. 50), and Stbourg (see below) are 
more easily reached. Visitors to the (3 M.) Batht of St. Atnand take the 
tramway to the Place de Raismes, descend the Rue du Marais, and cross 
the forest. They may go on thence to Notre-Dam^-d^ Amour ^ on the road 
from Valenciennes to St. Amand. 

Fboh Valbngiennes to Maubedge, 23V^ M., railwav in iVi-lVsl^i'' (fares 
4 fr. 26, 2 fr. 85, 1 fr. 85 c). About IV4 M. to the N.E. of (SVs M.) Curffies is 
8a)owrg, the church of which (13th cent.) contains the tomb of St. Druon. 
The ch&teau of Eth^ a little to the S.E., has a fine park. Fine view of the 
road, as far as Mont St. Aubert, near Tournai. From this point we may 
reach the station of St. Waast (see below) via BelUgnies^ which also has 
a park and marble - quarries. The district is picturesque. — 12 M. Ltt 
Flammgrie-St'WaaMt. — mh M. Bavu (Buffet-Sdtel ; H6t. det Mettagerie*), 
though it now has only 1799 inhab., was a flourishing town under the 
Romans, who called HBagacum or Bcmacwn. Destroyed during the invasions 
of the barbarians it never recovered its prosperity, while it was pillaged, 
burned several times, and laid waste in the 15-17th centuries. A few Roman 
remains have been found. Bavacum stood at the intersection of eight Roman 
roads, afterwards called, like many other thoroughfares in the N., *Brun- 
hilda^s Roads*. Seven of these still remain and are named on a small 
pyramid, which replaces the ancient milestone at their junction. Railway 
to Cambrai via Le Quesnoy, see p. 68. — 23V2 M. Maubeuge^ see p. 74. 

Fbom Valbnciennss to Mons (Brussels), 2OV2 M., railway in I-IV4 hr. 
(fares 3fr. 6, 2fr. 20, 1 fr. 25 c.). The train soon diverges to the E. from 
the Douai line. — 41/2 M. Onnaing. V/t H. Blanc- Misseron is the last 
French station. Branch to St. Amand, see p. 45. At (8V2 M.) Qui^vrain 
(bu£fet) the Belgian customs-examination is made. Six unimportant stations 
are passed. — 15V2 M. Jemmapes. — 2OV2 M. Mons^ see p. 74. 

From Valenciennes to Laon, see p. 78; to Aulnoye^ etc., see p. 74; 

to LilU^ see p. 50; to Cambrai, see p. fiS. 
Babdbkbb*s Northern France. 5th Edit. 

Digitized by 



6. From Donai and Valencieimes to Lille and 

I. From Donai to Lille. 

aO M. Railway in i/j-iy, hr. ffare* 8 fr. 36, 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 60 c). 

Douaiy see p. 41. — The line, running to the N., crosses the 
Canal de la Scarpe, — Beyond (i^^ M.) Pont'dC'la-DeiUe, whence 
branch-lines nin to Orchies (see below) and to Pont-i-Marcq (p. 45), 
important coal-mines are passed and the Canal cU la DeHle is crossed. 

— From (8 M.) Lihtrcourt a branch -line runs to Lens (p. 18), 
either direct or vi4 (3 M.) Carvin (p. 18). Passengers for LiUe 
sometimes change carriages here. — From (13 M.) Seclin (H6i. dti 
Voyageur8)j an industrial town with 6982 inhab., branch-lines run 
to (972 M.) TempUuve (p. 51) and to (8 M.) Don-Sainghin (p. 60). 

— I0V2 M. WattignUs ' Templemars J not to be confounded with 
Wattignles-la-Victolre (p. 74). — 20 M. Lille, see p. 52. 

n. From Valenciennes to Lille. 

29V2 M. Eailway in 1-2V4 hw. (fares 5 fr. 40, 8 fr. 66, 2 fr. 86 c). 

VaUncienneSy see p. 46. The line runs at first in the direc- 
tion of the Douai and Paris railway, but soon diyerges to the right, 
passing between the forests of Raismes (p. 46) and Yicoigne. 2Vs M. 
Beuvrages; 3V2 M. Raismes -Vicoigne; 5 M. La Fortt. 

772 M. Bt. Amand (H6U de Paris; Mouton Blanc) , a town with 
14,454 inhab., situated 72 ^- to the N. of the station, at the con- 
fluence of the Scarpe and the ELnon, originally grew up around an 
abbey founded in the 7th cent, by St. Amand. Nothing now remains 
of the abbey, except its Portal with two octagonal payilions (1632-33) 
partly incorporated with the H6tel de Ville, and the Facade of the 
Church, The latter, a bold construction, consisting of a tower and 
two turrets, was designed by Nic. duBois, who was abbot in 1621-73. 
The Dwelling of the Receveur de VAbbaye^ Rue de Toumai 31, should 
also be visited. — Steam-tramway to Valenciennes (p. 46). 

About 2 M. to the 8.K. (>/4 M. from 8t. Amand-Thermal: see below) are 
the Baths of St. Amand (mui d« V Btdbliuement, pens. 6-12 fr.), with sul- 
phurous water and mad baths, efflcacions in cases of rheumatism and 
diseases of the joints (mad-bath 3, snlphur bath 2 fr.; subscription for 
drinking the waters 6 fr.). Season from May 26th to Sept. i6th. 

A branch -railway runs from St. Amand to (16 M.) Blanc- MUieron 
(p. A9), yia OVa M.) St. Amand-Thermal and (8Vs M.) Fresnes (p. 46). 

Another branch-railway runs to CiO^/^V..) HeUemmes (p. 60) via Cvaoing 
(p. 61), Bouvina, and Sainghin-en-Milantoii (p. 61). 

Fbom St. AifAMD TO TouBNAi, 16 M., railway in 60min. (fores 2 Ar. 46, 

I fr. 70. 1 fr. 16 0.). — 6 M. Afaulde-Jiortagns is the frontier-station. To 
the right is the fort of Maulde. — 7>/s M. BUhaHes is the first Belgian 
station. 12 M. Anioing^ with an old Gothic chdtean. — 16 M. Toumai. see 
p. 60. 

We now traverse the fertile district of La P6vlle (Tabula'). — 

II M. Rosulty to the left of which is the Chdteau du Loir^ dating 
from the i6th century. 131/2 M. Landas, At (16^2 M.) Orchies 

Digitized by LjOOQIC 

ROUBAIX. tf. Route, 51 

(H6t. de la Gare) we join the railway ftrom Douai to Tournai(p. 45). 
Branch to Somain, see p. 45. 

Another branch, I8V2 M. long, leads to Toureoing (see below), parsing 
Cytoing, (T'/s M.) Bou9ines, celebrated for the victory gained there by Philip 
Augustus oyer the Emperor Otho IV. in 1214, (12 M.) Aseqy also a station 
on the line from Lille to Tournai (p. 60), Lannoy^ and RouhaiX' Wattrelos 
(see below). 

I872 M. Nomain. Ahout 372 M. to the left lies Mons-en-PivHe 
(p. 45). — 2OV2 M. Templeuve, 23 M. FrStin, to the right of which 
is the fort of Sainghin-en-MilantoiB (p. 50). — We soon join the 
line from Douai (p. 60). — 291/2 M. LilU (see p. 62). 

m. From Lille to Courtrai. 

I6V2 M. Bailwat in V^-IV* ^^- (fwes 2 fr. 90, 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 35 c). - 
To Ottmd, Wl^ M., in 2-4V4 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 20, 5 fr. 80, 3 fr. 70 c). — From 
Paris to Ottend by this route, 208 M., in 5-12 hrs. (85 fr. 70, 24 fr. 70, 16 fr. 
20 c.); via Maubeuge and Brussels (R. 11), 270 M., in 7-12V2 hrs. (41 fr. 65, 
29 fr. 35, 19 fr. 40 c). — Tramway from Lille to Rovibaix and Tovrcoing^ 
see p. 52. 

Beyond the fortifications of Lille the line to Gourtrai runs on 
towards the N.E. and crosses the Canal de Rouhaix, — 3^2 M* 
Croix - WasquehaL In the distance to the right rises the tallest 
factory-chimney in France (345 ft). 

6 M. Bonba^ix. — Hotels. Fbbraillb, Rue de la Gare 22, R. 8-6, 
D. 3»/s, omn. »/« fr.; Modekne, Rue de la Gare Ij d'Islt, Place de la Gare 5 
DE Pabis, Rue de Lille 4. — Caba, 11/4 fr. per drive, 2 or IVt fr. per hour. 
— Tramways from the station to Wattrtlo* (see below) and Lcmnoy (see 
aboye) ; from the Grande Place to Lilh (see p. 52), Toureoing (1/2 hr. \ 
25-30 c), and the Pare de Barhieux. — American Consul, Joseph E, Haven. 

Rouhaix is an important manufacturing town, the population of 
which rose from 8700 in 1804 to 121,017 in 1908. It is connected 
with the Scheldt and the lower DeMe by means of a canal. The 
Ecole Nationale dea Arts Ir^dAUtrieU is a kind of industrial university, 
with classes for a great variety of industrial, artistic, and technical 

7 M. Toorcoing (H6tel TermintiSj at the station; du Cygne, 
Grande-Place 18), another busy manufacturing town with 81,671 
inhab., practically forms part of Rouhaix. A monument commemor- 
ates the defeat of the English and liustrians here by Jourdan and 
Moreau in 1794. 

Rouhaix and Tourcoing form the centre of one of the busiest industri- 
al districts in France, the population of which has increased fourfold 
during the past half-century. They are adjoined by numerous populous 
communes, Croix, Wattreloty etc. The staple industry of the district is 
wool-manufacturing, in which it bears comparison with any other district 
in the world, representing four-fifths of the entire production in N. France. 
The district lies in the heart of French Flanders, and its industrious and 
enterprising inhabitants have many points in common both with the French 
and the Flemish type — a combination largely accountable for their excep- 
tional prosperity. 

There is an English Churchy outside Croix, on the Lille road (chaplain. 
Rev. Charles Faulkner; services at 10 and 6). and also a French Brotestant 
Church at Rouhaix (Rue des Arts? service at 11). Digitized by GoOqIc 

52 Route 7. ULLE. Practical NoUs, 

From Toarcoing ft branch-railway rans to (9 M.) Menin, contiDuing tbe 
line from Orchies. — 2 M. Tourcoing-Ut-Franei ; V/t M. Halluin (Pomme 
d'Or), with 16,600 inhab., the last French station. — 9 M. ifenin^ a Belgian 
fortified town with about 11,700 inhab., is situated also on the line from 
Tpres and Comines to Gourtrai. 

Beyond Tourcoing the frontier is crossed. 13 M. Mouscron 
(buflfet), with the Belgian custom-house. — I61/2 M. Courtrai 
(H6t. du Damier; Royal; Ville de Gand; du Nord), and thenre to 
Bruges and Ostend^ see Baedeker's Belgium and Holland, 

7. LiUe. 

Hotels. *H5tel dr l^Eubope (PI. a} E, 8), fine Basse 30-32, with baths, 
E. from 4. B. IV2, d^j. 2»/4, D. 3V2, omn. »/« fr- i Gkand-Hotel (PI. ej F, 3j, 
Bne Faidiierbe 20-24-, Hot. Continental (PL k •, F, 4), Panris St. Maurice, 
d^j. 8, D. 3V2 fr.j Central (PI. bj F, 3), Bue Faidherbe 29; de la Paix 
(Pl.g; F, 4), Bue de Paris 46; du Commeboe (PI. j -, F, 4), Bue deB^thune 13 ; 
HoDEBNE (PI. 1; F, 4), Parvis St. Maurice 7; de Flandbe et d'Anoletebre 
(PI. c; F, 3), Place de la Gare 13-15; de Pabis, Place de la Oare 5-7; 
de BbUxblles et db Toubnai (PI. i; F, G, 3), Bue des Buisses 1-3 and 
Bue du Vieux-Faubourg, B. from 2, d^j. or D. 2»/4, pens. 6-9 fr. ; Gb.- 
HSt. de Lton (PI. d; F, 4), hdtel-garni, Bue du Pries and Bue Faidherbe. 
— HdTEL-BuFFET at the station, B. from 4 fr., good. 

Restaurants. Di9oir,t^ Rue du Vieux-March^-aux-Poulets 15-17, k la 
carte; Grand-H6tel (see above), in the entresol, d^j. or D. 3V2 fr. ; also 
at most of the other hotels and many cafds, and the two following 
brasseries : Taverne de BrtixeWss (a la carte ; plat du jour 75 c, in the 
evening 1 fr.), Taveme de Stroibourg^ Grande-Place 12 and 15. A modest 
repast (iyi-U/tfr.)^ with beer, may be obtained in many of the Etitmninett. 

Oaf^B-Brasseries. Jean^ Bue Faidherbe 2; Caf^ du Grand-Hdtel^ same 
street ; Bellepue^ de la Paix^ Moderne, in the Grande-Place ; du Boulevard^ 
Au Coq Lilloit, corner of the Bue Rationale and the Boulevard de la 
Libert^; Ca/i du Globe, at the N.W. end of the Boul. de la Libert^. — 
Taveme de Strasbourg (see above); Brasserie Universelle, March^-aux-Fro- 
mages 21; Brasserie de VUniversiii^ Brasserie des Beaux- Arts^ Place de la 
B^publique. — Automatic Bar, Bue des Ponts-de-Comines 30. — Bar Con- 
tinental, Place de la Gare 11; Bodega, The Savoy (American Bar), Posada 
Wine Company, Bue Faidherbe 29, 5. & 3. 

Cabs: per drive IV4 fr., per hr. I'/i fr., each succeeding hr. IV2 fr«; at 
night (12-6), 2V«, 3, or 2»/4 fr. ; 25 and 50 c. extra for two-horse cabs. 

Tramways. Twenty lines diverge from the Place de la Gare, the 
Place de Tourcoing, or the Grande-Place. Comp. the annexed plan. There 
are two classes on the cars, and the routes are divided into ^sections', for 
each of which the fare is 10 and 15 c. for the first, 5, 10, or 15 c. for each 
additional section. A line runs from the Place de Tourcoing to Rov^aix 
(p. 51) in 1 hr. (fares 75 or 50 c, return-ticket 1 fr. or 80 c). 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. E, 5), Place de la B^publique. Branch- 
office at the station. 

Theatres. Grand- Thidtre (PI. E, 5), Place de S^bastopol. — Hippodrome 
(PI. E, F, 5), Bue Nicolas-Leblanc 87. — Caf^s-Concerts : Palais d'Eti, Square 
Dutilleul (Easter-Sept. ; 40 c.-l fr. 40 c); Casino des Families, at the Brasserie 
Universelle (see above); MouUn-Rouge, Avenue de THippodrome. 

Baths. Bains Ullois, Boul. de la Liberty 219-; Sociitidu Grand-Balneum, 
Place de TArsenal; Bains de V Europe, at the HAtel de TBurope (1 fr.); 
Bains ParUiens. Bue du Quai 18-20; Swimming Bath (PI. C, 4), Quai Vauban 1. 

English Church (Christ Church; PI. F, 5), at the corner of the Bue 
Watteau and the Boul. de la Libert^; services at 11 and 6.80. Chaplain, 
Rev. J. S. Philips, M. A., Bue Jeanne-d'Arc 16. 

British Vice-Consul, /. E. Walker, Bue des Stations 95. — American 
Consular Agent, Christopher J. King, Bue des Stations 97. t 




A. 1 





out ogtw o 




zed by Google 

H6tel de VilU. LILLE. 7. Route 53 • 

LilLe, originally L'Isle, Flem. Ryssel^ the chief town of the 
DSpartement du Nordy and the seat of a university, was formerly 
capital of French Flanders. It is a fortress of the first class, with a 
citadel said to be Vauban's masterpiece, and is situated in a well 
irrigated and fertile plain on the DeHle^ a navigable river with which 
numerous canals are connected. The population is 205,602. The 
Musee (p. 54) in itself repays a visit to Lille. Lille is a very im- 
portant manufacturing place. Its staple commodities are linen and 
woollen goods, cotton, cloth, *Lisle thread', machinery, oil, sugar, 
and cbemicals. 

Lille is said to haye been founded hefore the middle of the 11th eeot., 
hy Goant Baldwin XV. It was ceded by Charles V. to Louis de Male in 
1869, and passed by inheritance to the dukes of Burgundy, of whom one, 
Philip the Good, made it his residence. In the course of the many wars 
that distracted this part of Europe, Lille was held successively by the 
Austrians and Spanish, and it was taken from the latter by Louis XIV. in 
1667. In 1708 it surrendered, after a gallant resistance, to the Duke of Marl- 
borough. The treaty of Utrecht, however, in 1713, finally incorporated Lille 
with France. Lille sustained a severe bombardment from the Austrians 
at the outbreak of the Revolutionary wars in 1792, but *4n vain; Lille, 
often burning, is quenched again: Lille will not yield. The very boys 
deftly wrench the matches out of fallen bombs. . . Memorable also be that 
nimble Barber, who when the bomb burst beside bim, snatched up a sherd 
of it, introduced Soap and lather into it, crying, *^VoiiA mon plut d barbe. 
My new shaving-dish!' and shaved 'fourteen people* on the tpot . , . The 
Plat d barbe became fashionable; 'no Patriot of an elegant turn", says 
Mercier several years afterwards, 'but shaves himself out of the splinter of 
a Lille bomb" (Garlyle). — OeMi^al Faidherbe (1818-89) was a native of Lille. 

From the station the handsome Riie Faidherbe leads straight 
to the Place du Theatre (PI. F, 3), named after the Grand-Theatre, 
which was burned down in 1903. Thence the Rue des Mannelien 
runs to the left to the Grande-Place, the centre of the old town. 

The Bonrse (PL F, 3), a brick and stone edifice, with shops on 
the groundfloor, was begun under the Spanish dominion in 1652. 
The court (apply to the concierge if closed) is surrounded by arcaded 
galleries and contains a bronze statue of Napoleon L by Lemaire 
(1854). The Column (Ha DSesse^) in the centre of the Place commem- 
orates the defence of the town against the Austrians in 1792. On 
the side of the Place next the Rue des Manneliers rises the Grand^ 
Garde, built in 1717, and now occupied by the military staff. 

The Hdtel de Ville (PI. E, F, 4) was erected in 1847-59 in the 
Renaissance style, though tbe S. wing dates from Louis XY's reign. 
It occupies tbe site of a'palace of tbe dukes of Burgundy and con- 
tains the Biblioihhque Municipale (67,000 vols. ; open to visitors on 
Sun. i& Thurs. 11-4, to students on week-days 9 a.m.-lO p.m.. Sun. 
9-1) and a Musee of Engravings and Copies (open Sun., Wed., & 
Thurs., 10-3). 

Returning to the Grande-Place, we follow the Rue Nationale 
(PI. E-0, 4, 6), to the left, to visit the new town. In the second 
street to the left are the church of -Sfe. aieph(n{V\. E, 4; 18th cent.; 
and tbe Military Hospital (1605), once respectively a cbapei an 


zed by Google 

54 Route 7. LILLE. Palais dea 

a college of the Jesuits, vhife to the right is the Square Jussieu 
(PI. E, 4), with a monument to Desrousstaux (d. 1892), a Lille poet. 
The Rue Nationale now intersects the Boulevard de la Lihert^ (see 
below) and leads to the Place de Strasbourg (PI. D, E, 4), in which 
is a Monument to A, Testelin^ organizer of the national defence in 
the N. of France in 1870-71. Farther on is the church of the Sacri- 
Coeur, a new and elegant structure in the Gothic style, of hich the 
tower is not yet completed. 

The handsome Boulevard de la Liberty (PL D-F, 3-5), which 
forms the boundary between the old town and the new quarters bnilt 
in the Parisian style, begins at the Esplanade (p. 60) on the N.W., 
and leads to the S.E. to the extensiye Place de la R^publique (PI. 
E, 6), in which rises an ^Equestrian Statue of /General Faidherhe^ 
by Merci^. To the N.W. of the Place rises the spacious Prifecture 
(PL E, 4, 5), dating from 1865-70 ; to the S.W., the Hdtel des Pastes; 
and to the S.E., the Palais des Beaux-Arts, near which is the Fon- 
taim Vallon. 

The Rue d'Inkermaa leads hence to the S. to the Place S^baslopol 
(PI. E, 5), with the temporary Grand-Th^itre (comp. p. 53). 

The Palais des Beaux-Arts (PL E, F, 5), a striking edifice, design- 
ed by B^rard and Delmas, was opened in 1892, but represents only 
about one-half of the original plan. The collections which it contains 
are among the most important in France, the *Fi«tnre Oallery being 
especially rich in examples of the Flemish and Dutch schools. The 
collections are open to the public daily from 10 to 4 or 5 (closed 
till 2 on Sat. ; antiquities closed daily 12-2). Entrance on the left. 

PaiMGiPAL Gallbbt, next the facade: Soolptnres. At th& entrance, 
Frimiet^ Knight errant (cast). To the right, in the centre: Leroux^ Flower- 
girl^ Andri d'Boudain, Girl; OJteest, Vittoria Colonna; Sanson^ Sasanna at 
the bath; Michel^ Thought; Bosio, Henri IV when a youth (silvered bronze); 
Peynot, The prey; Idrae^ Cupid stung (bronze); Hugttenin^ Hebe; Allar^ 
Temptation of Eve ; BarriaSy Model of the Defence of St. Qnentin ; in front 
of the door on the right, A. d'Houdain, Weighing (cast). — Opposite the 
windows, as we return : Cordotmier^ Beheading of John the Baptist (bas-re- 
lief in plaster); Michel^ Form emerging from matter; Leftbvre^ Blind children 
(cast; original at the Luxembourg); Desruelles, Pastoral; Deplechin^ Am- 
phitrite; Thivier, Fountain of youth (cast) ; A. dHoudain, Faun; Feugirs des 
Fortiy Goatherd; Chaudet, Bust of Napoleon I. ; Lemaire^ Clelia, Roman girl. 
— By the 5th window on the left, Ph. Roland^ Death of Cato of Utica 
bronze). — Aho, casts and busts. Glass-case with bronzes. 

The Small Gallbbt, parallel with the principal gallery, contains 
small Antiquities: vases, sculptures, glass, bronzes, flint objeets, etc. 

Lbft Gallbbt, facing the entrance: 'Antiquities (/. de Vicq Collee- 
tion). — 1st Bay: Mediseval sculptures. — Snd Bay: Church plate from the 
12th cent, on, ivory carvings, tapestry. — 3rd Bay: Wood-carvings; enamels, 
carvings in ivory, books with miniatures; fine i6th cent, tapestry (Esther 
and Ahasuerus). — 4th Bay: Locksmith's work, reliquaries, enamels, spoons; 
furniture, carvings, tapestry, German altar of the i5th cent. ; wooden balus- 
trade. — 6th Bay: Furniture, tapestry: German corporation fountain, in 
Sewter; small sculptures, watches, miniatures, ivory-carvings ; wax me- 
allions; bag-pipes (18th cent.); microscope with morocco case (18ih cent.), 
book-bindings; tombstones. 


zed by Google 

Beaux-Arts. LILLE. 7. Route, 55 

Rotunda to thb lkft. Tapestry and standards. In glass-cases: keys 
of the town, headsman's sword, lace made at Lille, weights and measures, 
textiles; hat, epaulets, and sash of Gen. Faidherbe. — Tbansveksk Qal- 
LEBT. Important Ceramic Collection. — Botdmda to thk bight: Sevres 

Right Gallebt: Ethnographical Collection (Mutie Moillet). 

Two Staibcabbs, one at each end of the sculpture-gallery, lead to the 
first floor. The one near the main entrance, by which we ascend, leads to 
the Pavilion Leleux; the other leads to the Pavilion Brasseur (p. 58). 

FiBST Floob. 
'Picture Gallery (Mueie de Peintvre). The paintings in each room 
are mentioned from right to left. — Pavillom Lblbux or Boom II. 727. 
Smith'Hald, Steamboat pier in Korway, 400. Boeckert, Sermon in Lapland. 

— No number, Florent- 

Menet, Waif, 112. sau- Boulc^^ard de icL Liberie 

vatge, Sea-piece; lo4. * • 

Butin, £x-voto at Hen- 
nequeville. — 1117. 
Zuber, The ravine ; 334. 
Gelhay, Bibliophile; 
1176. Duhem, Peace- 
fulness of night. — No ; 
number, Leclercq, Ma- 
ternity. — 1182. Duvenl^ 
The procession; 1183. 
Ouinier, Children of . 
the Virgin. — Bust of 
Alexandre Leleux, by 
Mme. Deseat. 

Opposite the en- 
trance is the Sfus^e 
Wicar (p. 58) and be- 
side it me — 


MiTiFS or Room I, com- 
municating with the 
Payillon Brasseur (p. 
53). Many of the paint- 
ings here are by un- ' 
identided artists. 989. 
Italian altar-piece (14th 

cent.); ItaUan SehooL Jtue da Ut /tier (Le CflCLttUorh 

982. Holy Family, 990. 

St. Catharine of Siena; 305. School of Botticelli, Madonna; 993. Jtalian School, 
Madonna; '337. Ohirlandaio, Madonna with the eglantine; 1126. Venetian 
School of the 16th Cent., Portrait ; 80. Boni/azio, St. Peter; 1011. French School 
of the 16tk Cent., Justice; 171. Clouet, Portrait; 116. "• Velvet" Brueghel, 
Holy Family; 33. Bellegambe, Trinity; 612. Pourbu* the Younger, Portrait; 
Brueghel the Elder, 125. Spring, 121. Paying taxes; 1003. Flemish trijptych; 
1077. Flemish School, Madonna; 32. Bellegambe, Mystical press; 578. Van 
Orley, Adoration of the Magi. — 594. Patinir, John the Baptist preaching. 

— 1020. Flemish School, Satirical subject; 318. Francken the Elder. Charles V. 
assuming the monastic habit; 983. Flemish School, Tarquin and Lucretia; 
1002. Portion of a Flemish triptych; 813, 812. if. de Vos, Portraits; 317. 
Francken the Younger, Christ on the way to Calvary; 346. Mabuse, Ma- 
donna; 999. Flemish ScTmoI, Christ in the house of Simon the Pharisee; 
58. S. met de Bles, Flight into Egypt; •226. Ger. David, Madonna; 1071. 
Flemish School, Holy Family; 213. P. CrUtusO), PhiUp IV. le Bon; 1022. 
Flemish Sc?y>ol, Toung married couple, with their patron saints, atthe 
gates of the celestial city; 385. Eeemskerck, Allegory of the vices; *74a* 
Dirk BouU, SymboUcal fountain; 1046. Dutch farmer's wife; 1006-lOW. 

56 RouU 7. LIT.LE. Palais des 

Shutters of a German triptych; 8. Amberger, Portrait of Emp. Charles V.; 
497. Israel van Meekenenil)^ Assumption; 905. WoMgemut (t), Hocking of 
Christ; 957. German triptych. — This gallery contains also the Collection 
of Coins, in which the Flemish specimens are especially noteworthy. 

Boom III, beyond B. II. "AOl. Holbein the Younger, Charity. — 568. 
Jfee/s the Elder, Church-interior; 144. CampTtuysen, Huntsmen resting; '^390, 
•391 (farther on), Van der Helt, Portraits; 161. Vam Ceulen the Elder, Anna 
Maria von Schurmann (1660); 405. Honthorst, Triumph of Silenus; 906. 
P. Wouvennanj Huntsmen resting; 319. Fyt, Animals; 681, 630 (farther on), 
Van Ravestein, Portraits; 327. Van Qeest. Portrait; ZustrU, 916. Christ and 
Mary Magdalen, 915. Judith; 218. /. 6. Cuyp, The family; 104. Brouweri^i), 
Luncheon; 582. Is. van Ostade, Batcher; "370. Fr. Hals, Hille Bobbe of 
Haarlem; "328. Van Qeest, Dutch family; 406. P. de Boogh (?), Dutch interior; 
98. Brakenburgh, 'Sc^ne galante*; 373. Dirk Hals, Domestic scene; 434. 
Koedyek, Interior : 309. B. Flemalle, Episode in the life of St. Lambert; *561. 
N. Neuch&tel, J. Neudorfer, the mathematician, and his son. 

Boom IV. 426 Jordaens, Isaac blessing Jacob t above, '<29. Snyders, 
Boar-hunt; *427. Jordaens, Temptation; RtO^ens, 674. St. Bonaventura, 675 
(farther on), St. Francis in ecstasy; 419. Jordaens^ Christ and the Pharisees; 
60. Van Bockhorst, Martyrdom of St. Maurice; 211. De Crayer , Salvator 
Mundi; *287. Van Dyck, Miracle of St. Anthony of Padua (a hungry mule 
kneelf before the Host, neglecting the oats placed near him) ; 423. Jordaens, 
Twelfth Night. — Rubens, 6<7. Providence, ••671. Descent from the Cross 
(ca. 1615), 6)76. Abundance, 1101. Descent from the Cross (sketch). — *627. 
£r> Quellin and Adr, van Utrecht, Christ at Bethany ; *672. Rubens, Death of 
Mary Magdalen ; 283. Van Dyck (?), Portrait; 576. Van Oost the Elder, Portrait; 
*^673. Rubens, St. Francis and the Virgin ; 425. Jordaens, Huntsman and dog ; 
693. Ryckaert, Clam-seller; De Crayer, 208. The *Quattro Coronati' (four 
early martyrs), 210- The son of Tobias and the angel; ^289. Van Dyck, 
Marie de Medicis (ca. 1630). — '286. Van Dyck, Crucifixion. 

Boom V. 433. Van Kessel, Smell. — 741. Steen, Fiddler; 603. E: van 
der Poel, Kitchen; 436. S. Koninck, Portrait; 725. SiberechU, Landscape; 796. 
Versteegh, Interior; 579. Ossenbeck, Strolling musician; 316. Franchoys, A 
prior (1645); •172. Pieter Codde, Portrait of a young man; 742. Steen, Dutch 
musician; Brakenburgh, 96. Merry meal, 97 (farther on), After the wedding; 
724. SiberechU, Ford; 484. Lievens the Elder, Head of an old man. — 239. 
Delft, Portrait; •ese. Jac. van Ruysdael, Landscape; 209. De Crayer, Mira- 
culous draught of fishes (freely retouched); 739. Verspronk, Portrait of a 
young man (1634); 902. De Witte, Church of Delft; •753. Teniersthe Younger, 
Strollers; 982. Unknown ArtUt (17th Cent.), Portrait; 572. Van Oost the Younger, 
Foundation of the Carmelite order. — •761. Teniers (he Elder, Dives in hell ; 
•173. P. Codde, Conversation; 295. Van den Eeckhout, Tribute-money; 811. Vosi?), Portrait; 162. De Champaigne, Annunciation; •751. Teniers the 
Younger, Temptation of St. Anthony ; 237. Van Delen, Portico of a palace ; 
483. Lievens the Elder, SaXome-, 760. Teniers the Elder, Witch-scene. — ^752. 
Teniers the Younger^ Rustic interior; De Champaigne^ •163. Holy Night, 164. 
Good Shepherd ; 687. /. van Ruysdael, Landscape; 692, 691. S. van Ruysdael, 

8. E. Pavilion or Boom VI. Van Goyen, 354. Skaters, 362. Windmill ; 
583. /*. van Ostade, Skaters. — 329, 330. Geeraerts, Children's games; '770. 
Tilburg, Village festival; 187. D. de Koninck, Fruit and animals; 107. P. 
van Bredael, Fair in Italy. — 392. Van der Heist, Venus; 519. Molenaer, 
Carnival scene. — 18. /. d'Arthois, Landscape; Van Bloemen, 59, 58 (farther 
on), Views of Bome, 57. Flight into Egypt; 774. A. van UtretAt, Cock-fight; 
520. Molenaer, Bleachfield; 353. Van Goyen, Landscape; •597. Piatzetta, As- 
sumption; 728. Snayers, Camp; 16, 17. D^Arthois, Landscapes; 731. Snyders, 
Danish dog; 108. Brekelenkam, The inventory. — 539. Ant. More, Portrait; 
567. Oehtervelt, Family meal; 884. Wauiers, Prometheus; 216. B. Cuyp, Por- 
trait; 106, 106. Van Bredael, Yhits at Antwerp. 

Galeeie VfeBONfesE Or Boom VII. •644. Ribera, St. Jerome (1643); 
Dom. TheotocopuK (il Greco), 765. Christ at Gethsemane, 764. St. Francis; 
1021. Spanish School of (he 17th Cent.^ Assumption; •9l7. French School of 
the 17th Cent., Portrait of an architect; Frame. Goya, •349. The young, 360. 


LILLE. 7. Route, 57 

The old, 361. The garrotc; 470, 1111. Lg Nnin^ Interiors; 804. Vignon the 
Eldtr^ Adoration of the Magi ; 616. Pouuin^ Time freeing Truth from Envy 
and Discord (sketch)^ Le Valentin (Jean de Boulonffne), 92. Soldiers cast- 
ing lots for the vesture of Christ, ^ (farther on), Mocking of Christ; 458. 
Lebrun^ Hercules and Cacus; Mignard, 512. Madonna, 511. Fortune; 312. 
Fragonardf Adoration of the Shepherds (sketch); *451. Largilliire^ Jean 
Forest, the landscape-painter, father-in-law of the artist; 459. LebrunO)', 
Vauban; 206. A, Coypel^ Atalide and Bozane (from Racine s ^Ba^aset") ; 665. 
Salvator Ro*a^ Landscape. — 492. C. Maratta, Dedication of a temple of 

Seace*, 447. Ltmfranehl, St. Gregory^ *'780. A. del Sarto, Madonna; 1139. 
. Strozti. Moses; 9. Carav<$ggio^ St. John; 34. Canaiato^ Piazza di San 
Marco; 664. Tintoretto^ Paradise (sketch); P. Veronese^ 139. Entombment, 
*140. Eloquence, *id&. Martyrdom of St. George, •141. Science (spoiled) ; 
609. Leandro Batsano, Christ expelling the money-changers; Tintoretto^ 652. 
Venetian senator, 653. Martyrdom of St. Stephen ; 717. Andrea Schiavone^ 
Esther and Ahasuerus; Domenichino. 913. SS. Stephen and Niccolo da 
Tolentino, 911. Victorious Cupid, 912. Diogenes; 636. Chddo Reni^ Sibyl; 
768. Tiarim, Binaldo and Armida. — 738. Slpada^ Chastity of Joseph; 258. 
Donado^ Scourging of Christ. — 591. Pantoja de la Cruz, Archduke Mathias. 

— In the centre, Botticelli^ Virgin and Child. 

S. W. Pavilion or Boom VIII. L. Boilly^ 75. Jules Boilly as a child, 
♦67. Triumph of Marat; 523-528 (some farther on), Monnoyer^ Flo veers. — 
1133. Boilly^ The game of hot cockles ; 862. Ant. WaUeau (see p. 46), In- 
terior of a park; 260. 2>onr< (of Lille), Portrait of himself. — 864. Fr.Wat- 
teau (nephew of Ant. Watteau), Popular festival at Lille in 1789 ; L. Watteau 
(nephew of Fr. Watteau), 874. View of Lille, 875 (farther on). Federation 
at LiUe; Fr. Watteau, 867. F§te at the Colis^e in Lille, 866. Cavalry skir- 
mish, 873. Feast of St. Nicholas, 872. Happy family, 879. FSte in 1792 in 
memory of the raising of the siege of Lille. — Fr. Watteau^ 869, 870. Battles 
of Alexander, 865. *Braderie', or old clothes fair at Lille, 868. F6te du Bro- 
quelet; 269. Donv4, Sauvage, the painter. — '73. Boilly^ Series of 26 por- 
traits executed for a picture of the interior of Isabey s studio; 779) 778. 
Vaiilant (of Lille), Portraits. Above is a series of large religious paintings 
by Am. de Vuez (1642-1719 or 1720), brought from churches in Lille. — 
•Bronze bust of Bonaparte, by Corbet (1799). 

Boom IX. 166. Chardin, Portrait; 652. Ifattier, 'Scene galante\ — 1107. 
Marilhat^ Oriental landscape; 310. Cjk. Fortin, Chouans; 13. Ansiaux^ John 
the Baptist before Herod. — 715. A, Beheffer^ The dead go quickly; 224. 
Dauzat*, Algerian scene; 11. Andri^ Landscape; 10. Anastatic Hay season. 

— •772. Troyon, Forest of Fontainebleau: 226. L. David, Belisarius (1781); 
358. Oreute^ Psvohe crowning Cupid. — 809. VoiUes, Mme. Li^nard. 

Boom X. 194. Corot, Antique festival; 669. P. Rouueau, Kitchen; 562. 
A. de Neuville, Scouts (Crimea); •136. Cabanel, Nymph carried off by a faun; 
•113. /. Breton, Erecting a Mont de Calvaire; 168. CJUntreuil, Evening mists; 
491. MaiUart, Slayer of monsters: 750. Tattegrain, The 'Cessions k Merci' 
before Philip the Good (1430); 20(). Courbet, .AH^t dinner at Ornans (1849). 

— 394. Henner, Entombment ; •27. Baudry, Punishment of an erring Vestal ; 
1164. Decamps, Hunting. — 645. Ribot, St. Vincent; •280. Amaury-Duval, 
Birth of Venus; •SOO. Mereon, *Le Loup d'Agubbio', the wolf converted by 
St. Francis of Assist in the streets of Gnbbio; 109. Em. Breton, Pond; 545. 
C. L. MUller. Gaming; 445. Lami, Battle of Hondschoote (1793); 190. Ben- 
jamin-Constant, Interior of a harem in Morocco: 223. Daubigny, The Oise; 
544. Mailer, Haidde (from Byron's Don Juan); 313. Fran^ais, Sacred grove. 

— '614. J,F. Millet, Mother feeding her children ('La Becqu<{e^ 1860); 
1168. Rosa Bonheur, Pasture; •232. E. Delacroix, Medea (1838); *i93. Corol, 
Morning landscape. — On an easel, no number, Roll, Nurse. 

Boom XI. Garohu-Dwan (b. at Lille), 151. Sleeping man, 154. Ed. Bey- 
nart, 162. Lady and dog; 376. Harpignies, Recollection of La Meurthe; 81. 
Bonnat, Adam and Eve finding the body orAbel; 379, 378. Barpignies, Land- 
scapes; 448. Lansyer, Sea-piece. — 1135. Carolus-Duran, Em. de Girardin; 
490. A. Maiignan, The blind admiral Carlo Zeno; 160. Catin^ Tobias; 1104. 
E.Breton, Landscape. — 377. Barpignies, Landscape; no number, Chigot, 
Quiet evening; 1. Agache, Fortune; 240. Demont, The betrothal; 380. Bar- 

58 Route 7. LILLE. Palais des Beaux-Arta. 

pignieSf Landscape. — *148. Carolus-Dtwan^ Assassinated; 888. WeerlSy St. 
Francis of Assisi. — Bust of Antoine BraAseur, by Craui. 

Pavillon Bbasseub or Boom XII, at the head of the staircase men- 
tioned on p. 55 . 1108. Henri Martin^ Fate ; 378. Harpignies^ Landscape \ 
184. Commerrey Samson and Delilah. — Ko number, Maroniez^ Fishermen 
of Equihen*, *453. Laugit, Servant of the poor. — *546. C. L. Mmier, 'Not 
this man, but Barabbas'.'; no number, E. Breton^ Spring. — Above, 625. 
Puvis de ChavannUy Sleep. — 255. DeyrolU^ Lesson on the bagpipe; no 
number, Dtnnmlin^ Interrupted procession ; 111. E. Breton^ Christmas; 910. 
Yon, Landscape ; 188. P. de Koninck^ Child exposed on the water to test the 
faithfulness of its mother; above, 499. Mtrton^ Vision. — 866. GviUaumei, 
Arab market; above, 666. Rochegrout, Nebuchadnezzar. 

MusfiB WioAE. This room, parallel to the Galerie des Primitifs (p. 65), 
contains the valuable * Collection of Drawing*^ formed by the painter /. B. 
Wicar (b. at Lille in 1762, d. at Bome in 1834), and bequeathed by him 
to his native dty. 

The collection, which includes 2838 examples chiefly of the ereat Italian 
masters, is arranged in schools, the masters of each being placed in accord- 
ance vrith the dates of their birth. Besides drawings by Andrea del Sarto^ 
Bandinelli^ Caravaggio^ Annibale Caracd^ Correggio^ Carlo Dolei^ DometU- 
chino^ Finiguerra^ Fra Bartolomeo, Oiacomo Franeiaf OMrlandaiOy Oiotto, 
Ouereino^ Guido Reni, Oiulio Romano, Leonardo da Vinci, Mantegna, Mataeeio, 
Fttrmigianino, Perugino, Salviati, Tintoretto, Veronete, Cranaeh, Holbein, 
DUrer, and many other masters, the collection includes 8 by Titian, 196 by 
Michael Angelo (chiefly architectural designs), and 68 ascribed to Raphael. 
Of these last the best are: 479. Study for the ^School of Athens'^ 441. 
Christ crowning the Virgin, sketched from some of his fellow-pupils; 474. 
Coronation of St. Nicholas of Tolentino, an exquisite design for an altar- 
piece on panel; 458. Holy Family, on the back of which is an autograph 
letter. Titian's drawings include a sketch for the painting of the Comaro 
family (580). — This collection also includes a famous **Head of a girl, in 
wax, ascribed by Wicar to the age of Baphael, but more probably a 
Boman work of the 16th cent. ; the drapery of the bust is of terracotta. 
Among the other works of art exhibited here are a bas-relief in marble 
by Donatello (Beheading of John the Baptist) and a child's head in terra- 
cotta ascribed to Donatello, but more probably perhaps by Verrocchio. 

The Mue&e Lapidaire, in the basement, contains baptismal fonts of the 
12th cent., tombstones. Madonnas of the 14th and 15th cent., etc. 

Beyond the Palais des Beaux-Arts, at the corner of the Rae 
Watteau, is the tasteful English Church (PL F, 6; p. 62). The Rue 
de Valmy leads hence to the S.W. to the Place PhilippC'le'Bon(VL E, 
5, 6), in which rises a Monument to Pasteur (1822-95). At the end 
of the Place is the church of St. Michel (PL E, 6), with an interior 
decorated with paintings from the life of the saint. To the left is the 
Quartier des Facultis (Pi. F, 5), accommodating in separate build- 
ings the faculties of medicine, science, law, and literature of the 
University of Lille. Farther on, to the right, are the Jn^iiui In- 
dustriel and the Institut des Sciences NatureUes; to the left, the Ro- 
manesque Protestant Church and the Synagogue. 

The Rue Jean-Bart leads E. past these modern buildings and 
dehonches on the broad Boulevard des Ecoles, at the end of the 
Boulevard de la Libert^, opposite the Ecole des Arts et MStiers (PI. 
G, 5, 6), a monumental edifice, completed in 1900. Adjoining, in 
the Boulevard Louls-Quatorze, is the Institut Pasteur, resemhling 
that in Paris. 

The Boulevard Papin, running to the N. before the Ecole, hrings 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

St. Maurice. LILLE. 7. Route. 59 

U8 to the Port^ de Paris (PL F> 5), formerly included in the old 
fortifications. The gate was built in 1682 in the form of a triumphal 
arch in commemoration of the union of French Flanders with France. 
The sculptures were restored and the formerly plain inner facade 
embellished in 1890-95. 

The Rue de Paris (PI. F, 4, 5) leads hence, to the N., to the centre 
of the old town, with its tortuous and narrow streets, passing close 
to St. Maurice (see below) and near the railway-station. To the E. 
from the Porte de Paris are the Square Ruault, with the old Hdtel 
du Oenie^ and the old Hdpital of St. Sauveur (PI. G, 5; founded in 
1216; 250 beds). Near the latter are the church of St. Sauveur, re- 
built in 1901 after a fire in 1896, and the Noble Tour, a keep of the 
16th century. 

The church of ♦St. Maurice (PI. F, 4), at the end of the Rue de 
Paris and not far from the station, was built in the Flamboyant style 
in the 14-1 5th cent, and was restored in 1872. 

St. Maurice is almost the only important building in Lille that has 
survived the wars of the middle ages. Above the W. portal, which has 
been rebuilt, rises a fine stone open-work spire. When the W. door is 
closed visitors enter by a door to the right of the choir. The interior is 
distinguished by the width of the nave and the double aisles, which are 
all of the same height, by tbe lightness of its columns, and by its richness 
of effect. The modern high-altar is in the Gothic style. 

The Rue Esquermoise (PL E, 3), running to the N.W. from the 
Grande-Place and continued by the broad Rue Royale^ prolongs the 
main artery of traffic in the old town. 

From the junction of these two streets the Rue de la Barre leads to 
the W. to the Esplanade (p. 80), passing a little to the S. of the Gothic 
church of St. Caffuxrine (PI. E, 8), built in the early 16th cent, and enlarged 
in 1725. The church contains a *Painting of the Martyrdom of St. Catha- 
rine, by Rubens (near the entrance). 

From the Rue Esqnermoise we proceed through the Rue Basse 
(right) and thd Rue du Cirque (left) to Notre-Dame-de-la-TreiUe 
(PI. E, F, 3), a church in the style of the 13th cent., designed by 
the London architects H. Glutton and W. Burges, and begun in 1856. 
The building was planned on so ambitious a scale that little has 
been completed. — The Rue Basse leads farther on towards the 
Lycee Faidherhe (PI. F, 3), which contains a Natural History Museum 
(adm. 10-5). 

In this neighbourhood are the ifutie Commercial (PI. F, 3 ; Rue du Lom- 
bard 2; open 10-4) and the Porte de Roubaix or 8t. Maurice (PI. G, 3), built 
in 1622 but altered in 1876. 

To the N. of the Lyc^e is the Place St. Martin, with quaint old 
houses. Farther on , at No. 32 Rue de la Monnaie , is the Hospice 
Comtease^ founded in 1230 by Jeanne, Countess of Flanders, but 
dating In Its present form from the 15th century. Beyond it is the 
Palais de Justice (PI. E, F, 2; 1837), situated on the Basse-Deme, 
a canal spanned a little farther on by the Pont-Neuf (PL E, 2; 1701). 

The Halle aux Sucre* (PI. E, 2), close by, contains an Induttrial Mu- 
seum, open 10-4 (Tues. 2-4). — The EgUte de la MadelHne (PI. F, 2), a domed 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

60 Route 7. LILLE. 

church in the Greek style (1675), contains a painting by Rubens (Adoration 
of the Shepherds) and one by Van Dyek (Crucifixion), both spoiled by re- 
storation. This church has also several other interesting paintings, a fine 
iron choir-screen, etc. — The Chapel of the Public Hospital (PI. E, P, 1), 
close by, contains an Adoration of the Shepherds by Van Dyek. — The 
church of St. Andri (PI. D, 2), an 18th cent, building in the Rue Royale, 
contains a fine contemporary pulpit, busts, paintings, etc. 

The Esplanade (PL D, 2, 3) extends in front of the Citadel (no 
admission), vhich will soon be the only lelic left of the fortifications 
of Lille built byVauban. At the N. end of the Esplanade is a bronze 
statue, by Th. Bra, of General Nigrier (PI. D, 2); farther to the S. 
is a Music Pavilion (military band on Sun. & Thurs. afternoons in 
summer) ; and at the end of the Boulevard de la Libert^ (p. 64) is 
the Jardin Vauhan (PI. D, 3, 4), a pnblic garden in which concerts 
are given in summer (adm. 50 c). On the other side of the canal, 
to the left, is the Jardin de la CitadeUe (PL G, 3), continued by the 
Bois de la DeiUe (Gaf ^-Restaurant), the Race Course of Canteleo, 
and the handsome quarter of the Hippodrome, much frequented in 

The Boulevard Vauban (PL C, D, 4, 5), beginning at the Jardin 
Vauban (see above), passes in front of the Palais Rameau (PL D, 4-, 
exhibitions, etc.) and the CoUhge Libre St, Joseph, Near this point, 
to the right of the Boulevard Vauban , rises the huge Universiti 
Libre (Pi. C, 4, 5), in the Gothic style, with five faculties. 

The church of Notrs-Dame-de- Consolation (PI. B, C, 4) has a richly 
adorned interior and a curious pulpit, representing a ship in full sail. 

From this neighbourhood we may return to the centre of the 
town by the tramway (comp. the Plan). 

From Lille (Calais) to ValencimMi, Aulnoys, Hirson^ and Nanqf, see 
pp. 51, 80, 66-67. 

From Lillb to Touknai (Brussels), I6V2 M., railway in 36-50 min. (fares 
2 fr. 85, 1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 20 c). — Q^k M. Hellemmes (p. 50) ; 6 H. Aseq^ also a station 
on the line from Orchies to Tourcoing (p. 51). — 8 M. Baisiwx is the last 
French, and (11 M.) Blandain (buffet) the first Belgian station, at each of 
which there is a custom-house. — 15V2 M . Tournai (Hdtel d« Vlmpiratria ; BeUe- 
vue; d€ la Nouvelle-Bellevue ; de Hollande), set Baedeker^s Belffium and Holland, 

From Lille to B6thunb (Abbeville), 26^/2 M., railway in i-i*/* hr. 
(fares 4 fr. 60, 8 fr. 10 c, 2 fr.). — The line skirts the S. of Lille, halting at 
the three Partes. — 5V2 V* Loos, a town with 10.640 inhab., is situated near 
an ancient Cistercian Abbey ^ said to have been founded in 1140 bySt. Ber- 
nard, and now used as a prison. — 7 H. Haubourdin^ with 8^ inhab. 
(branch-line to St. Andri-Us-Lille, p. 65). 10 M. Wawrin^ junction for Lens 
and Armenti&res (see p. 18) ) 12 M. Don-Sainghin^ junction for Lens (p. 18), 
H^nin-Li^tard (p. 18), and Seclin (p. 50). 17 M. La BassU^ a small industrial 
town, on the line of canals extending from the Dedle to Aire, St. Omer, and 
Oravelines. — 18Va M. Violaines, Branch-lines to Pont-ii-Yemdin and to Bully- 
Grenay (p. 18). — 26V« M. Bithune^ see p. 18. 

Fbom Lille to Tpbks, 22Va M., railway in 1-23/4 hrs. (fares 3 fr. 60, 
2 fr. 60, 1 fr. 70 c). From Lille to (8V2 M.) La Madeleine^ see p. 65. — 13 M. 
Oomines (mtet des Trois-Rois)^ with 8431 inhab., the last French station, 
was the birthplace of Philip de Comines (1446-1609), the celebrated chron- 
icler. The Lps,, upon which it is situated, is the boundary between 
France and Belgium. — 14 M. Comines (Belgian station), with the euftom- 
house. — 22V2 M. rpres^ see p. 17. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 


8. From Paris to Cambrai. 

a. Vifc Creil» Bt. Qnentin, and Busigny. 

I28V2 M. Railway in SVa-B hrs. (fares 23 fr. 30, 15 fr. 65, 10 fr. 30 c). The 
chief points on this route are Compiiffne (p. 6S) and 8i, Quentin (p. 71). — 
The trains start from the Gare du Nord (PI. B, C, 23, 24-, p. 1). 

To (112V2M.)Bw«*S'wi/, see pp. 67-73. — Our line soon diverges 
to the left from the main line (to Namur; R. 11). The chief station 
passed is (II872 M.) Caudry (H6t, de VEurope,* del'Vnivers; des 
Voyageurs), a manufacturing town (11,066 inhab.\ with a church 
containing a fine copper -gilt reliquary of the l5th century. — 
I28V2 M. Cambraiy see p. 62. 

b. Vifc Creili St. Just, and P^ronne. 

I2IV2 M. Railway in 4-53/4 hrs. (fares 22 fr. 5, 14 fr. 90, 9 fr. 65 c). 

From Paris to (49V2 M.) 8t. Just, see pp. 67, 68 and 24, 23. The 
line here turns to the N.E. and begins to traverse a flat and 
monotonous district. — 651/2 M. Maignelay-Montigny. Maignelay 
has a fine church of the 16th century. 

62V2 M. Montdidier (Buffet-H6tel; H6t. St. Eloi; du Oygne), a 
town with 4443 inhab., on a slope above the Von, is said to have 
been named by Charlemagne in memory of his captive the Lombard 
king Didier, who was at first imprisoned here. The church of 8t, Pierre 
(1476) contains a tomb and font of the 11th cent., and a 'Holy 
Sepulchre'. The church of 8t. Sepulcre, of the 15th and 17th cent., 
with a modern portal, contains a 'Holy Sepulchre' of the 16th century. 
In the Palais de Justice are six fine Brussels tapestries of the 
17th century. Parmentier (1737-1813), the chief advocate of potato- 
culture in France, was bom at Montdidier, and is commemorated 
by a statue there. 

Railway to Compikgne and Amiens^ see p. 70. — A local branch-line runs 
from Montdidier to (37V«M.) AlUrt (p. 21) via (IT^/z M.) Rotihra (p. 64). 

74y2M. Boye (Hot. du Cygne-de-la- Croix ; du Commerce), a town 
with 4382 inhab., carries on an extensive trade in the grain raised on 
the Santerre, the fertile plateau which the railway traverses beyond 
the town. The church of 8L Pierre wm built partly in the 11th, 
partly in the 16th century. Branch to Gompi^gne, see p. 69. 

8272 M. ClianlneB (H6t. de la Gare) has also a station on the 
line from Amiens to Gh&lons-sur-Marne (p. 64). The village, 3/^ M. 
to the N., has a ruined Chateau and an iBth cent. Church. 

86^2 M. MarchSlepot. The railway enters the valley of the 
Somme, and beyond (93 M.) Pironne-la-Chapelette crosses the canal. 

94 M. P^ronne (H6t, St. Claude ; des Voyageurs), a town with 
4525 inhab., is situated on the Somme. Its fortifications were razed 
in 1906-7. 

P^ronne is of venerable origin and was the seat of a celebrated mon- 
astery founded by the Irish monk St. Fursy (d. 650). In the 9th and 10th cent. 

62 Routes, CAMBRAI. 

it belonged to the counts of Verxnandois, one of whom confined King 
Charles the Simple here from 923 till his death in 929. The cell in which 
the unfortunate captive is said to have been starved to death is still pointed 
out. Charles the Bold captured the town in 1465, and when Louis XI. came 
in 1468 to conclude an agreement with him, he imprisoned that monarch 
for two days in the castle, in revenge for his having stirred up the town 
of Li^ge to revolt. Louis was compelled to sign the disadvantageous 'Treaty 
of Pdronne*, and we are told that tame jays and pies used to be taught to 
cry *Pdronne' and *P^rette' in derision of the king's unfortunate policy. 
Louis, however, retook the town in 1477. A statue commemorates Marie 
Fouri (more accurately Catherine de Poix), who distinguished herself in 
the successful defence of the town against the Duke of Kassau in 1636. 
The fortress was captured in 1816 by the Duke of Wellington , and in 1870 
it capitulated to the Germans, after a week's bombardment. 

The church of St. Jean (1509-26) has a fine portal and some 
good railings and stained glass. The Hdtel de Ville contains a small 
Mus^e (adm. 50 c. ; on Sun. gratis). The Chateau consists of four 
heavy mediaBval towers. 

Railway to Albert and to Ham via Athies^ see p. 21. 

From (102 M.) Roisel branch-lines diverge for (5 M.) Hargicourt 
and for St. Quentin (p. 71), and from (107 M.) Epihy another, 
I2V2 M. long, runs to V^lu (p. 21). Beyond (H2V2 M.) VillerS' 
Plouich we cross the Scheldt and its canal. 

116 M. Marcoing. Branch-line to (IV4 M.) Masnilres (2736 in- 
hab.). Railway to Achiet and Bapaume, see p. 21. 

121^2 ^' Cambrai. — Hotels. Hotel Boisst, dk Francb, dd Cygne 
ET DU SoLBiL d'Ob, all in the Place aux Bois^ Hot. de l'Eukopb, 69 Rue 
des Liniers. — Railway Restaurant. — Gabs. Per drive 80 c, 3 pars. 1 fr. 20, 
4 pers. 1 fr. 60 c. ; per hour, IV2, 2, and 2V2 fr. — Electric Tramways, — Pott 
Office^ Rue Vanderburch 13. 

Cambrai has three railway-stations: Oare Centrale; Oare Annexe^ on 
the Somain line; and Oare du Cambrisis^ for the Le Cateau line. 

Cambraiy a town with 27,832 inhah., and the seat of an archbishop, 
is situated on a slope on the right bank of the Scheldt, 

Cambrai is generally identified with the Camaracum of the Antonine 
Itinerary. It afterwards became the capital of a small episcopal province. 
The bishops, often at strife with the people, confided the defence of their 
rights first to the dukes of Burgundy, afterwards to the German emperors, 
who acted as *ch&telains\ The League of Cambrid, directed against Ven- 
ice, was formed here in 1608 between the Emperor Maximilian, Louis XII., 
Pope Julius II., and Ferdinand of Aragon; and in 1529 Margaret of Austria 
and Louise of Savoy, acting respectively for Charles V. and Francis I., 
signed here the ^Paix des Dames'. In 1595 Cambrai opened its gates to 
the Spaniards, but in 1678 Louis XIV. recovered it by the treaty of Nim- 
wegen. In 1815 it surrendered to the Duke of Wellington. Fdnelon 
(1651-1715) and Cardinal Dubois, minister of Louis XV., were archbishops of 
Cambrai ; and the chronicler Enguerrand de Monstrelet (1400-1453) was born 
here. Cambrai gives its name to *cambric\ a fine linen cloth or muslin, 
invented in the 15th cent, by Baptiste Coutaing, and still one of the chief 
products of the town. The French call it *batiste\ after the inventor. 

As we enter the town from the central station, which lies to the 
E., beyond the old fortifications, we pass (on the left) the hand- 
some new College and the Citadely and then the pleasant Jardin de 
I' Esplanade, embellished with statues of Baptiste Coutaing and of 
Monstrelet (see above). The street goes on to the Place aux Bois 

OAMBRAI. 8. Route. M 

and the Place d'Armes, in which is the H6Ul de VilU^ a large and 
handsome modem edifice, with a facade sculptured by Hiolle of 
Valenciennes. The Belfry, in the Rue St. Martin, farther on, to 
the left, dates from the 15th and 18th centuries. 

The Cathedral, or church of Notre-Dame, farther on, to the left, 
an ahbey- church of the 18th cent, (rebuilt since 1869), contains 
statues of F^nelon and Bishop Belmas, by David d' Angers, and eight 
large paintings in grisaille after Rubens, by Geeraerts of Antwerp. 

Facing the exit from the cathedral is the Chapelle du Grand 
Seminairej a former Jesuit college (17th cent.}. The street to the 
right of it leads to the Rue de I'Epee, at No. 15 in which is a Mus^b 
(adm. free on Sun. and holidays, 11-3 or 4 ; on other days fee), with 
paintings chiefly of the Dutch and French schools. 

In the Place F^nelon rises the church of St, OSry, built in the 
18th cent, with a tower 250 ft. high and a dome over the crossing. 
It contains a flue marble rood-screen (below the organ), some antique 
oak medallions (in the choir), and several paintings, including an 
Entombment ascribed to Rubens. 

The Chdteau de Selles, on the banks of the Scheldt, at the N.W. 
corner of the town, is of very ancient origin, but successive re- 
storations extending back to the 11th cent, have entirely altered it. 
We may return hence to the Place aux Bois by a street passing near 
the Porte Notre-Damej the finest of the town-gates, dating from the 
Spanish period (17th cent). — The Public Library, with 49,640 vols, 
and 1423 MSS., occupies an old chapel in the Rue Gambetta, near 
the Place aux Bois (open on week-days, 2-4 and 6-8). 

Fbom Gahbbai to Dodai, 16 M., railway in 50 min. (fares 3 fr. 25, 2 fr. 
25, 1 fr. 50c.). Unimportant stations. From (8V2 M.) Aubignp-au-Bac a branch 
runa to Sotnain (aee p. 45). — 16 M. Douai, see p. 41. 

Fkom Cambrai to Bavai Pour), 33 M., railway in IV2-2V4 hrs. (fares 
5 fr. 95 c., 4 fr., 2 fr. 60 c.) via Soletmes (ISVs M.-, p. 78), and Le Que*- 
noy (25 M.i p. 66). 33 M. Bavai (p. 49). — The railway goes on to (12 M.) 
Dour.^ in Belgium, via (5 M.) RoUin, where the Belgian custom-house 
examination is made. 

Fbox Gahbbai to Valenciensks, 28 M., railway in I-IV2 hr. (fares ca. 
4 fr. 80, 3 fr. 25, 2 fr. 10 c). V2 M. Camhrai-Annexe. The most important 
sugar-refinery in France is situated at Escaudoeuvres (1000 workmen). — S M. 
Bouchain, a small place on the Scheldt, with a church of the 12th, 15th, and 
17th centuries. — IOV2 M. LoureJies, with glass-works. — 15»/2 M. Somain 
(p. 45). — 28 M. ValMciennety see p. 46. 

From Cambrai to L§ Cateau, see p. 73; to Amiens via Marcoing and 
Bapaume, see pp. 62 and 21. 

9. From AmieiiB (Calais, Boulogne) to Ch&lons-Bur- 
Mame (BdU) vik Laon and Eheims. 

134 M. Railway in 3Va-6V* hw. — From Calais and Boulogne to Amieru, 
see E. 1. — From Amiens to Laon, 67 M., in l»/4-3V» hrs. (fares 12 fr. 10, 
8 fr. 15, 5 fr. 30 c). — From Laon to Rheims, 32 M., in l-lVs hr. (5 fr. 80, 
3 fr. 95, 2 fr. 66 c). — From Rheims to Chdloru, 35 M., in 50 min.-lV2 hr. 
(6 fr. 40, 4 fr. 80, 2 fr. 80 c). 

This line forms part of the direct route from London to Bale (day- 
service in 15V4 hrs., fares 4i. lAs. 9<*., dl. 5«. 5 night-service in 14»/4 hrs.. 

64 RouU 9. LA FERE. 

H. 17* 6(f., 3/. 7s. U.\ tick ts valid for 15 days; no Srd cl.). — Another 
and somewhat longer service (ISV? hrs.) runs \ii Calais, Lille, Douai, 
Gambrai, St. Quentin, and Laon (same fares). 

Amifns, see p. 24. — We diverge to the left beyond Amiens 
from the line to Paris, and cross the line from Paris to Arras. — 
6 M. Blangy-Olisy. 10 V2 M. VUlers-Bretonneux^ an industrial town 
with 4636 inhab., wa$ the scene of one of the main engagements in 
the battle of Amiens (see p. 26), in which the French Arm^e du 
Nord was routed. — The fertile district of Santene is now traversed 
and several small stations are passed, including (19^2 ^0 Bosfkrea^ 
the junction for Montdidier and Albert (p. 61). — 23 V2 M. ChaulrUs 
has also a station on the line from Paris to Cambrai (see p. 61). — 
29 M. Neale (H6t. du Lion-d'Or; 2602 inhab.) is a town of con- 
siderable antiquity, with a cliurch partly in the Romanesque style 
of the 13th century. 

36V2 M. Ham (mtel de France), a small town (3233 inhab.) with 
a Castlt dating from the 13th cent., the donjon of which (^Tour 
du Oonntftable'), 110 ft. broad and 110 ft. high, has walls 35 ft. thick. 
Here Louis Napoleon was confined, after the failure of his attempt at 
Boulogne, from 1840 till his escape in 1846. The church of Notrt' 
Dame, partly Romanesque, restored in the 18th cent., the Library, and 
the Belfry, formerly a church-tower, may also be noted. A statue 
of Oeneral Foy (1776-1825), who was bom at Ham, stands in the 
Place de l'H6tel-de-Ville, where also is a small MusSe. 

Beyond (42 M.) Flavy-le-Martel (1810 inhab.) we join the line 
from St. Quentin and follow it in the direction of Paris. 

49 M. Tergnier, see p. 71. Here our line turns to the E. and 
crosses the Crozat and Oise Canals and the river Oise, 

52 V2 M. La Fire (H6tel de V Europe), a fortified town with 
4745 inhab. on the Oise, was bombarded and taken by the Germans 
in 1870. It has a school of artiUery founded in 1719. The EglUe 
8U Montain (15th cent.) contains the tomb of Marie of Luxembourg 
(d. 1546). The Mutie d'AboviUe, on the Esplanade, contain^ ahout 
500 paintings bequeathed to the town by the Countess d'Htfricourt 
(d. 1875), few of them of great value and several injured by the 
bombardment. It is open to the public on Sun., 2-4; on other days 
on application. Catalogue, 1 fr. 

From (56 M.) Veraigny a branch -line runs to (13^2 W.) Derey- 
Mortiers (p. 78), through the valley of the Serre. 

67 M. Laon, see p. 76. — Beyond Laon Ouignicourt (p. 83) 
and other small stations are passed, and the Aime and the Suippe 
are crossed. 

99 M. SheimB, see p. 84. The through -trains to Switzerland 
do not enter the terminus at Rheims; passengers for that town change 
carriages at the station of Biiheny, 

Beyond Rheims the line ascends the valley of the Ve»U to St. 
Hilaire, traversing the monotonous plains of the Hnute Champagne. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

ARMKNTLfcRES. 10. RouU. 65 

— 1071/2 M. SUUry, noted for its wine. — To the lelt of the station 
of (1 171/2 M.) Mournulon stretches the immense Camp de Chdlona 
(29,660 acres) , estahlished in 1857 by Napoleon III., and before 
1870 a veiy important military centre. It Is still used for manoBuvres. 

— At (12*1 M.) St. JIUaire-au-TtmpU the line to Metz via Verdun 
diverges to the left (p. 90). We cross the Rhine and Marue Canul 
and the Marue. 

134 M. diftlons-sur-Kame, see p. 103. 

From Chalons the SwidS expresses go on to (161 H.) Blumej see pp. lOf), 
106; thence to (^8H.) Chawnont, see K. 46; thence to (3J0 M.) Ba/orty see 
pp. 318-322^ and thence to (380 H.) Bdle yi& MiUhauim, ace p. o21. 

10. From Calais (London) to Nancy (Stittssburg) vidl 
Lille, Valenciennes, Hirson, and Lon^fuyon. 

301 M. Bailwat, direct in summer in Wj% hrs. — Frum Calais <Qarc 
Centrale) to Lille, 66V2 M., in I1/2-4 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 10, 8 fr. 10, 5 fr. 25 c). 
— From Lille to Valeneimttes, 29Vx M., in lVs-2V4 hr;*. (5 Ir. 40, 3 fr. 65, 
2 fr. 36 c). — From Valenciennes 10 Nancy , 206 M., through- train in 
summer in T'/a hrs. (fares 36 fr. 66, 24 fr. bO, 16 fr. 20 c). — From Lon- 
don \o Nancy by this route, 13^4 hra.^ via Amiens, 'Lann, Bheims, and 
Chalons (R. 9), 14 hrs. (1st cl. fare by either route 32. 16«. 4d.). 

CalfUB^ see p. 3. — From Calais to (37^2 M.) Ha&ebrouck , see 
pp. 15-17. We leave the Hue from Paris to Arras on the right. 

4672 M. Baillenl (Faucon), a curious and picturesque Flemish 
town with 13,573 inhah., largely engaged in the produciion of hand- 
made lace. The hclfry of the H6Ul de ViUe dates from the 15-17th 
cent., the church of St. Vaaat from the 14th and 17th. The Musie 
contains a small coUection of paintings and antiquities. 

63V2 M. Armentiires (Mot, du Nord, R. 2-5, D. 3 fr.; d<; Paris), 
a prosperous manufacturing town with 28,613 inhah., is situated on 
the Ly$f near the frontier. Its principal product is tahle-linen. Rail- 
way to Lens (Arras), see p. 18. 

A branch-railway runs from Armenti^res to (21^8 M.) Bergueite (p. 17), 
passing the small towns of (6 M.) LaventU, (S^/t M.) La Oorgue-Estairet, 
and (iVJt M.) St. Vmant. — Another branch runs to (10 H.) Comine* (v. 60). 
vii (2 M.) Mouplkiu and i3Va H.) Le Timq}t€t, the front ier-sUtions. 

From (61 ^2 M.) St. Andri a branch runs to Haubourdin (p. 60). — 
621/2 M. La MadtUvM, an industrial place (13,522 iuhab.), whence 
a branch runs to Ypres (p. 17). — We cross the I>e01e and join the 
liues from Tournai, Valenciennes, Paris, and Brfthune. 

66V2 M. Lille, see p. 52. -- From LUle to (96 M.) ValenciexmeB 
in the reverse direction, see pp. 50, 51. 

Beyond Valenciennes we leave the Une to Maubeuge (p. 49) 
to the left, and the line to Le Cateau via Solesmes (p. 76) and the 
Canal of the Scheldt to the right. — 98V2 M. Le Poirier, with iron- 
works. — 100 M. Mainy-Famars. Famafs (Fanum MartU) occupies 
the Bite of a Roman colony, excavations on which in 1824 yielded 
no fewer than 30,000 objects (jewels, coins, trinkets, etc.). 

Babdkkbj**8 Northern France. 5th Edit. Digitized by Lq[POgle 

66 Route 10. HmSON. 

106 V2M. LeQ,ueBnoj(HdtelduOrand'PaTi8), «t fortress with 3941 
inhab., belonged successively to Halnault, Burgundy, and Austria, 
before the Treaty of the Pyrenees united it Anally with France in 
1659. Of its numerous sieges the chief Is that of 1793, when the 
Austrians captured it after a bombardment of ten days, which laid 
two-thirds of the town in ruins; ' It was, however, recovered by the 
Republican troops in 1794. After the battle of Waterloo the Dutcih 
garrisoned Le Quesnoy until 1818. About 11/4 M. to the N.E. is the 
small Chdteau de PotelU^ a well-preserved relic of the 14th century. 
— Railway to Cambrai and to Bavai, see p. 63. 

We next traverse the Forest of Mormal (23,000 acres), and beyond 
(116 M.) Berlaimont (p. 74) cross the Sambre. 

117 M. Aulnoye (p. 74). The railway continues in an E. 
direction. The canalized Sambre is crossed, and the country traversed 
is picturesquely diversified. — Several small stations. 

1231/2 M. Avesnes (^Hdiel du Nord; de la Gate), on the Helpe^ a 
town with 6013 ihhab., and at one time fortified, suffered severely 
in the wars of the 15- 16th centuries. The Church of St. Nicholas 
(13-16th cent.) has a tower 200 ft. high. The Fondation ViUien 
contains a small museum of antiquities, etc. Wool-spinning is an 
active industry in the neighbourhood, centring at AvemelleSj the 
next station. — Railway to Sars-Poteries (Maubeuge), see p. 74. 

133 M. Fouxmies (H6t, de la Providence; Orand-H6iel)j a town 
with 13,876 inhab. and an active woollen industry, is the Junction 
for Valenciennes via Maubeuge (see p. 74). — 137V2 M. Anor 
(p. 78). 

1411/2 M. ILiTBonf Buffet' Hdtel; Hdtel de laPoate; du Commerce), 
a town with 8541 inhab., on the Oise, is noted for its basket-majdng. 
We here pass from the Chemin de Fer du Nord to the Ghemin de 
Fer de I'Est. 

From Hirson to Kevignt (Bar-le-Duc), 105V2 M., railway in 5Vs-6»/4 hrs, 
(fares 19 fr. 15, 12 fr. 95, 8 fr. 40 c). By some trains there are long waits 
at Amagne-Lncquy, Vouziers, or Ste. Henehould. — 91/2 M. Aubenion (Lion 
d'Or), at the confluence of the Aube and the Thon, is engaged in wool- 
spinning. 13 M. Rumigny has a chateau of the 16th century. — 17 M. Liart 
is the junction of the line from Laon to M^aiferes (p. T7). — 88*/2 M. Amagnt- 
Luequp, also on the line from Rheims to M^ziferes-Charlcville (see p. 93). — 
44V2M. Attigny (Hdi. de la Oare; du Commerce)^ an ancient and celebrated 
little town on the Ai*n€ and the Canal deM Ardennes. Wittikfnd, the duke 
of the heathen Saxons, was baptised here in 1B6; and here in 822 Louis 
the Debonair performed his public penitence at the instigation of his pre- 
lates. The Merovingian and Carlovingian kings had a large and splendid 
palace here, built in 647, of which the DOme^ a sort of portico near the 
Hotel de Ville, is the only relic. The Church dates from the i5-16th cent, 
its tower from the 12th. — We now ascend the valley of the Aisne. — 
55 M. Vouzieri (H6t. du Commerce; Lion d^Or)y a town with 3436 inhab., 
picturesquely situated on the left bank of the Aisne, has a church of the 
15-16th cent., with a remarkable portal. A statue commemorates Hwpolyie 
Taine^ the Qritic and historian (i8i8J-93), who was bom here. Hirrow- 
gauge lines run from Vouziers to Buzancy (15 M. in IV4 hr.) viS. ChdiUlon- 
sur-Bar (p. 94) and to Le Ofidtelet'SW-Reioume (26 M. in 2-2»/f hrs.). ^ 65 M. 
Challerange. on the line from Bazancourt to Apremont (p. 93). — 76V2 M. 
Vienn^-lo'Villey which appears as Axuenna In the Itinerary of Antoninus, 


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CHA^TttLY. i i. RoiUe, 67 

is on the road from Bheims to Metz Yi& Verdun. — 79 Vs M. La J^mvilh' 
au-Pont has a modern pilgrimage- chapel and a village-church built partly 
in the 14th, partly in the i6th century. — SiVs ^- Ste, Mmuhould (see p. 91). 
The train then continues to ascend the valley of the Aisne, but finally 
diverges into that of Its tributary, the Ante, and reaches X105V2 M.) Revigny 
(^ee p. 106). 

From Hirson to Loon (Paris) and to Civet (Kamur) , see p. 78 ; to 
Maubeuge^ see p. 74. — Line to Guise (p. 73) under construction. 

The railway beyond Hirson traverses an undulating country, 
dotted with iron-mines, slate-quarries, and factories. — 14372 M. 
8i, Michel-Sougland, The rich abbey of St Michel is now repre- 
sented by its church, dating from the 12th and 16th cent., and some 
buildings of the 18th century. — 162^2 M. Le Tremblois, 

A narrow-gauge railway runs hence to (IQi/s M.) Petit9'Chapelle, on the 
Belgian frontier, vii (7J/2 M.) Bocroi (H6tel du Nord; du Commerce), a forti- 
fied town with 2116 inhab., altuated on a plateau about ISOO ft. above the 
sea -level, 8 H. to the W. It is noted for a brilliant victory won by 
Cond^ over the Spaniards in 1648. Diligence to Revm, see p. 79. 

The slate-quarries of (164^2 M.) Rimogne are the most important 
in the N. of France. — 171 V2 M* Toumes (p.78). — The train passes 
between M^ziferes and Charleville. 

176 M. Miai^res-Cliarleyille, see p. 94. — Thence to (232 M.) 
Longuyon and (301 M.) Nancy, see pp. 94-99. 

11. From Paris to Namnr (Brnssels, Cologne)* 

a. Vi& St. Qnentin, Manbenge, and Erqnelinefl. 


191 M. Railway in 5V2-10»/4 hrs. (fares 33 fr. 25, 22 fr. 95. 15 fr. 6 c). 
The trains start from the Gare du Nord (PI. of Paris, B, C, 23, 24). Trav- 
ellers bound for Brussels follow this route as far as (142 X.) Xaubeuge 
(p.. 74), or they may select the route via Amiens, Valenciennes, and Mons 
(RB. 1, 11. A 5), which, though longer and dearer, has the advantage of a morn- 
ing through-express, with second-class carriages. — For farther details of 
St. Denis, Chantilly, and other places near Paris, see BaedeherU Paris. 

Shortly after the fortifications are passed the line to Soissons, 
Laon , etc. (p. 81) diverges to the right. 41/2 M. St. penis , with 
the tower of its new church conspicuous on the right, and the tower 
of the cathedral farther off. The line to Beauvais via M^ru (p. 32) 
diverges here to the left — 7 M. PierreMtt-Stains. On the right 
rises the Fort de Garches. Beyond (2272 M.) Orry-Coye the train 
crosses a viaduct, 130 ft. high. To the right are the Chdteau de la 
Reine Blanche, a small Gothic structure of .1826, and the pond of 
the same name. We now enter the Forest of Chantilly, 

2572 M. Chantilly {H6tel du Grand Condi; d! AngUterre, etc.), the 
first stopping-place of the through-trains, a town with 6083 inhab. , 
famous, especially in the I7th and 18th cent, as the residence of 
the Cond^s. The well-known Race Course is situated near the station. 
Farther off are the extensive Stables of the Cond^s (18th cent), and 
the two ChdteauXf with their fln6 Park. The main ♦Chliteau, with 
its magnificent art-collections, was presentedtothe InstitutdeFrancr 


^T tilt !>•« »l^Mtii4l« (1832^) and i* open to visitors on Sub , 
nwk. •»* k«ltf*y« itt STunmer, ftmn 1 to 5 (except race-days). 

(V/c f* 'T^KJrJSTwilh 712B inbab., which is frcquentty mentioned 

»• -Sf^JS^rw^SSe ^SSA a >»«»«»« bnilding of the 
t,^ Uttl rr>*» r»^ ^ ±2j*llS?tS^ with l»«elidj and «Utn«, 
^^^•*^ 'ThrtSSLtjrif whS i» 2B0 ft. i« haght. The rich fagade 
•?*ln'1!2l!rT^h Twe^SU styfe. The ehiAes of «. Pierre 
of lh« !&s tywtf>q ;» ^ ft a ^^^l^^^ u^ th« fe»« abbey-church of 

""'i^llir.^;^ *. nit. ««« 4e «n«y 9f tfc. »»««« b, 
*ihiWi. •ni *• >* *",:^ ^r^ ^Ite» mi mattiftctoiies of 

., an important !«•*• "L^ TT «— ^ « ^-M.? <* *« 

Digitized by 


68 Route J 1, ORBIL. From Paris 

by the Due d'Aumale (1822-97) and is open to visitors on San., 
Thnrs., and holidays in summer, from 1 to 5 (except race-days). 
For details, see Baedeker's Paris. 

FbomGhanttllt to CBftpr-EN-VAi.ois, 22V2M., railway in 1-1 V4 hr. (fares 
4 fr. , 2 fr. 70 , 1 fr. 80 c). This branch diverges to the right beyond 
the viaduct mentioned below. — Q.U. Benlis (B6tel de*Arin9$; du Grand- 
C«rf; du Jford)y the Roman Civita* Siflvaneeteiuium, siiuKteA on the Nonttte^ 
is a pleasant little town with 7126 inhab., which is frequently 'mentioned 
in medieeval history. Sixteen towers of the Gallo-Roman Fortijleatioiui 
are still preserved. The Gothic * Cathedral^ a handsome building of the 
12-16th cent., possesses a portal (1164) adorned with bas-reliefs and statues, 
and two square towers, one of which is 250 ft. in height. The rich facade 
of the S. transept is in a late-Pointed style. The churches of St. Pierre 
(16th cent.), Bt. Framhourg (12th cent.), and the former abbey-church of 
at. Vincent (12th cent.) are also worthy of inspection. — 2272 X. Cripy- 
en-VatoU, see p. 82. 

Beyond Chantilly the train crosses the valley of the Nonette by 
a Viaduct, 485 yds. in length and 72 ft. in height, commanding a 
fine view. To the left is a modem ch&tean of the Rothschilds. The 
train passes through a cutting, traversing the quarries of St. Maxi- 
min , which yield excellent building-stone , and soon crosses the 
Oise, To the right is another handsome modern chateau of the Roth- 
schilds. To the left are the church 6f St. Leu-d'Esserent (p. 32), 
the line to Pontoise (p. 128), and the village and manufactories of 
Montataire (p. 32). 

31 V2 M. CreU (Buffet; Hdtel du Chemm-de-Fer, R. 2-3, D. 3 fr. ; 
du Commerce), a town with 9272 inhab., prettily situated on the Oise, 
is an important junction on the Ghemin de Fer du Nord, which has 
large works here. The church of St. Midard is a building of the 
12-15th centuries. Behind the Hotel de Vi£/e(1902) are some remains 
of an ancient royal chateau. 

Branch-line to Pontoite and Beawnont^ see p. 32; to Amiene^ etc., tee 
pp. 24, 23 ; to Beauvai* and Le Triport^ see B. 3. 

Beyond Creil the train skirts the Oise ; the Amiens line diverges 
to the left. — 3872 M. Pont-Ste-Maxence (H6t du Lion-d' Argent), 
with a handsome bridge, built in 1774-86, and an interesting church. 

To the S E. (>/« X.) are the important remains of the Abbaye de Moncel 
(partly 14th cent. ; visitors admitted). — Near the station is the ForSt d'Sal- 
lite, traversed by a road to (3VsX.) FJeurinet and CtytU.) SenUs (see above). 

441/2 M. Longueil'Ste- Marie (to Verberie and Estr^es-St-Denis, 
see p. 70). — 46 V2 M. Le Meux (to Cr^py-en-Valois, see p. 70). 

62 M. Gompi^g^e {Buffet, good). — Hotels. *Palack Hotel, B. 
from 5, B. 1V», d^j. 4, D. 5, pens, from 12, omn. V2 ^ ''• o^^n -April-Nov.; 
Hot. db la Cloohe, R. from 4, d^j. or D. SVsi in the restaurant 6, pens, 
from 10, omn. Vafr^ good; de Fbancb, B. from 3, d^j. 3, D. 3V2 fr 1 pens. 
from 8V2, omn. ytfr.; do Grand-Cbrf, d€j. 2V2, D 3 fr. ; de Flandrb, 
near the station; db la Gabb, with caf^, d€j. 2V»t !>• 3, pens. V/ttr. — 
Pensions, if. A Mme Caron^ Rue d'Ulm 10, 20 B., pens. 8-10 fr., English ; 
Mile. Boeheli, Bne des Dom^liera 2^ 25 B., pens. 6-7 fr. 

Cafes in the Place de rHotel-de-Ville ; others near the station. 

Cabs. Per drive, 2 pers. »/4 f*"., 8 pers. 1 fr. 10 c, 4 pers. IV2 fr.; per 
hr. 1V«, 2, or 2V2 fr. To Pierr^ondt (for 4 pers ) 12 fr., to Champlieu 20 fr. 
(bargain desirable). — Brakes to Pierref<mds on Sun. A Thurs. in summer 

to Namur. GOMPI^GNE. 11. BouU. 69 

(seat 2 fr. ; enquire at tbe hotels). — Otnaibus from the station to tlie town 
50 c, with 66 lbs. of luggage. 

Post k Telegraph Offlee, Rue NapoUoa 5, near the Hdtel de Villa. 

English Ohuroh. St. Andrew^ ATenue Thiers \ chaplain, iZe*. ff. Jftmcomb. 

Compilgne, on the OisCy a town with 16,868 inhah., was always 
a favooiite countTy-residence of the monaichs of France and is, 
theiefofe^ a place of some historical importance. It was here that Joan 
of Arc was taken prisoner by the Borgundians in 1430. A monument 
to her memory, by Leroux, was erected in the Place de rH6tel-de- 
Yille in 1880. The tower in which she was confined is shown near 
the river. 

Taming to the right on leaving the station and crossing the Oise, 
we soon reach the HStel de ViUe, erected at the beginning of the 
16th cent., with a fine facade, now adorned with modem statues, 
above which rises a belfry, 154 ft. in height. It contains a small but 
interesting Museum of paintings and other works of art (open free 
Sun. & Thurs., 2-5, in winter till 4; on other days for a gratuity). 

The early-Gothic church of St, Jacques, a little farther on, was 
much disfigured in the 15th century. Above the fa^de (15th cent.) 
rises a tower with a Renaissance dome, 160 ft. high. The coloured 
marbles in the choir and the wood-carvings are noticeable. — The 
church of 8t. Antoine (12th and 16th cent), on the other side of 
the town, has a fine portal and some stained glass of the Renaissance 
period. * 

. The Chateau or Palace, the most important though not the most 
attractive edifice at Gompiegne, situated a little beyond the church 
of St. Jacques, was built by Gabriel In the reign of Louis XY. In 
front of the facade next the town is a double colonnade, 47 yds. in 
length. The facade overlooking tbe park is 211 yds. in length and 
has a terrace commanding a fine vista through an avenue in the 
forest, nearly 4 M. in length. An iron trellised walk, Vs^* ^^ length, 
leading from this terrace to the forest was constracted by Napoleon I. 
to remind the Empress Marie Louise of her favourite trellis at Schon- 
bmnn ; only a portion of it now exists. Louis Philippe and Napo- 
leon ni. also frequently resided at Gompiegne. The chateau is open 
free every day from 10 to 6 (11 to 4 in winter); the 'appartements 
reserves' are shown on application to the custodian. 

The Intebiob is maintained in almost the same state as under the Empire 
and contains much to interest visitors. The contents include furniture in 
the style of Louis XIV., Louis XV., and Louis XVI., Sevres porcelain, 
tapestries, ceiling-paintings and panels by Qirodet^ DuhoiM, Cotfpet^ and others, 
sculptures, etc. The palace contains also a large uumb&r of paintings 
belonging to the Louvre collection. In the Galerie des Fdtes are statues of 
Kapoleon I. and his mother, by Canova. The chapel (not shown) contains 
some small works by Italian masters. 

The *Parkj entered by a gate on the left as we quit the palace, 
is embellished with statues. The Forest of Compiigne, which is, 
intersected by 354 roads and paths and affords many beautiful walks, 
is 35,850 acres in area and 58 M. in circumference. 

Branch-railways lead from Compi^ne to (22V« M) «<V« (P^ronn 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

10 RouU 11, PIERREFONDS. From ParU 

and Oambrai; pp. 61, 82) and to (25 M.) Soit*on$ (p. 82), by the valley of the 
AiiMy diverging from the line to Villers-Cotterets at (4 X.) Rithondes, — 
Branch-line from Compile to CUrmont and BeauveHty see p. 24. 

Fbom CoMPiftONB TO ViLLBRs^GoTTBSSTS vil PiERBsvoNDS, 23 X., rail- 
Way i^ 1 hr. (fares 4 fir. 16 , 2 Cr. 80 , 1 fr. 80 c). To Pierrefbads, lOVs X., 
railway in 20^.min. (fares 1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 30, 85 c.). — The Une crosses 
the Oise and skirts the forest to the E. and 8.E. — IQi/s X. Pierrefonds 
i*ffOL dtt Baim, with baths, B. from 6, B. IV4, d^. 41/z, D. S^/t, pens, 
from 12, omn. Vs fr. ; des Btrangert. opposite the ch&teau and near the 
station, B. from 8, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. SVz, pens, from 8 fr.; de* Rutnet, Rue 
Oamot; de rSn/er, Bae Viollet-le-Dnc; JJOt.-Restawemi du Lae^ facing the 
lake, d^j. 21/3, D. 2^/4, pens. 7 fr.), prettily situated on a small lake^ and 
possessing a bathing establishment, is chiefly interesting on account of its 
magnificent *Fsudal Castlk (open 9.80-5.30 or 10-4). This building, which 
stands on a rocky height above the village, was erected in 1390 by Louis 
of .Orleans, brother of Charles VI., and was one of the strongest and hand- 
somest of the castles of that period. It was still a powerful fortress under 
Henri lY, but was dismantled in 1617. During the Revolution it was 
sold, and it was afterwards purchased by Xapoleon I. It was restored 
by ViolUUe-Buc (d. 1879), and now belongs to the nation. At the comers 
and in the centre of each side rise massive loopholed towers (eight in all), 
115 ft. in height, with walls 16-20 ft. thick. The entrance is on the 8. 
side. The doigon, with its rich decorations, conveys an excellent idea of 
the splendour of a mediseval feudal lord. Above the fire-place in the hall 
of state are statues of the nine ^preuses\ or heroines, of medieeval romance : 
Semiramis, Lampedo, Deiphila, Tomyris, Tanqua, Penthesilea, Xenelippe, 
Ilippolyta, and Deifemme. — 23 V.. ViUers-CottertU^ see p. 82. 

Fbom CoMPiftoNB to CBftpr-EN-VALOis, 21 V< X., railway in 1 hr. 
(fares 3 fr. 90, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 70 c). The railway diverges from the 
line to Paris at Z« Mntx (p. 68). — 10 X. Vtrberie, a small town, once a 
favourite residence of the Merovingian and Carlovingian kings of the 8-9th 
cent., retains, however, no relics of its early greatness. Here, in 866, Ethel- 
wolf of England married Judith, the daughter of Charles the Bald. The 
church dates from the 14th century. A branch runs hence to Longueil 
(p. 68) and (lO^/a X.) Estr^es-St-Denis (Boves-Amiens; see below).— 15 X. 
Orrouyj about IV2 X. to the N.W. of which is Ohamplieu, with a ruined 
church of the 12th cent., and some Boman remains (baths, theatre, temple, 
etc). The custodian of the ruins lives at Orrouy. — 21]/8 M. Cripy- 
en-VaMSf see p. 82. 

Fbom CompiBone to Amibns, 451/2 X., railway in 2-2Vxhrs. (fares 8 fr. 20, 
5 fr. 50, 8 fr. 60 c). — 9V3 M. EitHet'St-DenUy formerly chief town of 
the barony which gave name to the beautiful Gabrielle d'Estrees, mistress 
of Henri lY. (Bailway to Yerberie, see above.) — 23 X. Montdidier^ see 
p. 61. — 38V2 X. Aforeuil^ with a large ruined castle and the church and 
other remains of a Benedictine priory of the 14-15th centuries. — At (AOVs X.) 
Bovu we join the railway from Paris to Amiens (p. 23). 

67 M. Noyon (H6tel du Nord; de France) j an ancient town with 
7336 inhab., of which St. M^dard and St Eloi (Eligius) were bishops. 
Here Chilperic was buried in 721, Charlemagne crowned king of 
the Franks in 768, and Hugh Capet elected king in 987. Noyon was 
the birthplace of Calvin (1509-64), the reformer, and of Jacques 
Sarrazln (1592-1660), painter and sculptor, to whom a bronze statue, 
by Molknecht, was erected on the promenade in 1861. — ^ The Cath- 
edral is one of the most beautiful examples in France of the Tran- 
sition style of the ll-12th centuries. 

Bound and pointed arches are used promiscuously, but Ihe latter are 

the more numerous. The two W. towers, 200 ft. high, are unnnished; the 

nortico (14th cent.) has three portals, unfortunately much iqjured in the 

^urse of time. In the interior of the nave square pillars with engaged 

taNamur. ST. QUENTIN. 11, Route, 11 

columnfl alternate with single columns. The aisles have galleries with 
pointed arclies, above which is a triforiom with round arches. The transepts 
have a triforium and two rows of coupled windows, one row Gothic, the 
other Romanesque. The choir-apse is surrounded by small circular chapels, 
recalling, as do also the apsidal terminations of the transepts, the cathedral 
of Tournai, whose bishop was subject to IToron until 1186. The chapels 
of the nave were added in the 14-16th centuries. On the N. side of the 
cathedral, and behind the choir, are a QuipUr Bou$4 and the remains of a 
Gothic Chiiter. 

77 M. Glianiiy {H6t. du Pot~d'Etam, good), an industrial town 
of 10,496 inhab., with bleach-fields and a branch of the St. Qobain 
mirror-works (see below). 

Fbom Ghaunt to Laom vi& Oottey-le-Chdteau^ 26^/2 M., railway in IV^hr. 
(fares 4 fr. 80, 3 fr. 25, 2 fr. 10 c). To Cottev, 8 M. in Vz hr. (1 fr. 46 c, 
1 fr., 60 0.). — 8 M. A'nesfiy, with an old porcelain-factory. From (41/2 M.) 
Rond-d'Orliam a branch-railway runs to (5 H.) 8t. Qobain (Hdt. du Point- 
du-Jour), celebrated for its Mirror Works ^ founded in 1693, and probably 
the most ancient in the world (visitors require permission from the office 
in Paris). — 611. Folembray^ where there is a large glass-work. 

SVz It* Oouey-le-Oh&teau {H6t. des Ruines^ B. 2-3, D. 3 fr.; Fomme 
cTOTy R. IVrS, D. 3 fr.), a village famous for its. formidable *Gastle, now 
in ruins, one of the most striking monuments of the feudal ages in Europe. 
This huge stronghjold, which covered an area of 10,0(X) sq. yds., was built 
early in the 13th cent, by Enguerrand III., and till about 1400 it remained 
in the possession of his family, who bore the proud motto : 'Boi ne suys, 
ne prince, ne due, ne comte aussi \ je suys le sire de Coucy\ The wealthy 
Louis of Orleans, who built Pierrefonds, then bought it and altered it in 
the interior. It was dismantled in 1693 by Mazarines orders, but had for 
its last lord Philippe ^Bgalit^' of Orleans. It is now public property and 
open to visitors (fee). The donjon, according to VioUet-le-Duc, is the finest 
specimen in Europe of mediaeval military architecture; ^compared with 
this giant\ he says, *the largest towers known appear mere spindles'. 
It is 210 ft. high and 100 ft. in diameter, and the walls are in some places 
84 ft. thick. Four smaller towers, a moat, and high walls also protected 
the fortress, which stands on an eminence, approached by long steep slopes 
on all sides but one. 

At (16 X.) Anitjf'Ptnon we join the line from Paris to Laon (p. 75) 
via Soissons. 

At (81 72 M.) Tergnier (Buffet ; H6t. du Chemin-de-Fer) are large 
railway^workshops. Railway from Amiens to Rheims, see p. 64. 
An electric tramway to Anizy-Pinon (see above) via St. Gobain 
(^ee above) is to be opened in 1909. 

The main line now qnits the Oise, and for some time skirts the 
Canal de Crozatj which joins the Oise and the Somme. 

951/2 M. St. ^nentin. — Hotels. Du Cygne (PI. a; B, 3), Rue St. 
Martin, B. 2V2-6, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 3V2, omn. 1 fr.5 db Fbancb et d'Anole- 
TEBBB (PI. bj B, 3), Bue St. Martin 28, B. from 3, I>. 3V2 fr. , good 5 
MoDBBNB BT Dv CoMMBBOB (Pll c ; B. 2), Bue du Palais-de-Justice 27, B. 3, 
D. SVaff-; Borrar-HdTKL, B. from 2V2f'.; Hdx. db la Gabs (PI. d; B, 5); 
Oband-H^tbl Tbbminus (building). — Oafes. Ca/4 de VUniver*^ Grand Ca^i^ 
Cafi de Paris, Plaee de rH6tel-de-Ville. 

Oabs. Per drive, 2 pers. 80 c., 8 pers. 1 fr. 20, 4 pers. 1 fr. 60 c, 
perhr., iVa, 2, or 2V«f''.; at night (11 p.m.-6 a.m.), per drive, 2 pers. 1V«» 
3-4 pers. 2 fr., per hr., 2V2 or 3 fr. — Kleotrio Tramways from the station 
to the CimeHire du Nord (comp. PI. C, 1); to the Barracks (Place Thiers | 
PI. B, 1) i and to the Faubourg d'IsU (PI. B, 5) ; from Rocourt (comp. PL A, »i 
io' Remicoitri (como. PI. C, 3). 

Post k Telegraph Ottoe (PI. B,3), Bue de La^Tour 6. 

Baths. Bue Jomentier 9vPlac« du Huit-Octobre 12. 

Digitized by 


72noutell. ST. QUENTIN. From Paris 

St. Qucntin^ an ancient town with 62,768 inhab., is situated on 
rising ground on the right bank of the Somme , at the point where 
it is joined by the Caruil de St. Quentin and the Canal Grozat It 
carries on extensive cotton and woollen manufactures. 

St. Quentin was known to the Bomans as Auguita Veromanduor^tm^ 
and derives its modern name from the youthful martyr who introduced 
Christianity here in the 3rd century. It afterwards hecsme the capital of 
the Counts of Vemiandois. In 1660 it formed part of tiie dowry of Mary, 
Queen of Scots, who derived a revenue from it until her death. In 1667 the 
Spaniards, with thtdr llnglish, German, and Flemish auxiliaries, under 
the Duke of Savoy, signally defeated the French under Coligny and the 
Constable Montmorency near St. Quentin. The battle was fought on i^t. 
Lawrenee*s day, sind it was In gratitude for this victory that Philip II. 
vowed the erection of the Escurial. On the 19th Jan., 1871, the French 
^Arm^e du Nord* under Faidherhe was defeated near St. Quentin by the 
Prussians under General Ooeben. 

Quitting the SU%tion{V\. B, 6*) we cross the Somme and the Canal 
de St. Quentin by r handsome Bridge^ decorated with bronze groups 
by Com.. Theunissen (1907), and enter the town. In ftont of us is 
the Place du Huit-Octohre (PI. B, 4), embellished with ahandsofne 
Monument^ by Barrias, symbolizing the successful defence of the 
town against the first attack of the Germans on Oct. 8th, 1870. 

The Rue d'lsle leads thence to the Place de rH6tel-de-Vllle, in 
which rises the *Monvment of the Siege of 1657, with sculptures by 
C. Theunl^sen (1890). On the N. side of the Place is the ♦HfirBL 
DR ViLLE (PI. B, 3), a fine Gothic building begun at the end of the 
15th century. The facade (1609) consists of an arcade of seven 
pointed arches, above which are nine fine windows in the Flamboyant 
style, separated by niches originally intended for statues and sur- 
mounted by a tasteful balustrade and three gables ornamented with 
rosettes. The Salle du Conseil^ the roof of which rests upon two 
circular wooden vaults, contains a large and elaborate chimney-piece, 
a curious mixture of the Gothic and the Renaissance styles. 

The *Church op Mt. Quenttn (PI. B, 0, 3), a little to the E. of 
the Hotel de Ville, is a fine example of French Gothic of the 12-15th 
cent, but Is unfortunately much masked by other buildings. The 
nave is 370 ft. long and 130 ft. high. The W. portal, which was 
formerly adorned with statues, is one of the oldest parts of the church. 

Intkbiob. The na/e, completed in 1456, the W. transept, and the 
choir are embellished ^ith splendid stained glssa and a graceful triforium. 
Many of the ''.hapelA date from the 14-l&th cent., and, like the choir, are 
adorned with polychrome painting. Beside the 1st chapel on the right is 
a Tree of Jesse in stone (loth cent.) and in the chapel is a nnall I6th cent, 
altar-piece. In the 2nd chapel is a fresco of the 16th cent, (re.'tored), and 
some of the others contain interesting sculptures. The *Ch&ir Sereetk is 
embellished with bas-reliofs (restored in the 19th cent.) referring to ihe 
history of St. Quentin and his fellow-martyrs. SS. Victorlcus and Oentianus, 
all of whom are buried in the crypt (9th cent.). 

In front of the church rises the statue, by Lenglet (1864), ol 
Quentin de La Tour (1704-88), the famous pastelist, who was born 
at St. Quentin. — Henri Martin, the historian (1810-83), another 
native, is commemorated by a statue in front of the lA^cie (Pj. B, 2). 

Digitized by CjOOQIC 


zed by Google 


zed by Google 

to Namur. LE CATEAtJ. U.RouU, 73 

The huge new building (interior unfinished) to the N. of the 
Hdtel de Ville is the Palais db Fbrvaques (PL B, 2), so called 
after the former convent whose site it occupies. It accommodates 
the Palais de Justice, the municipal library, and a spacious ban- 
queting-hall containing a Gobelins tapestry (18th cent.) and several 
modem paintings (Exodus, by F. Tattegrain, etc.). The rooms 
above the hall are to contain a Mus^e of fine art. 

At No. 22, Rue Antoine-L^cuyer, is the Musie Licuyer (PL B, 2), 
containing a rich collection of antiquities and works of art, includ- 
ing a series of ^PcateU by De La Tour (see p. 72). The Mus^e is 
open free on Thurs. & Sun., 2-5 (1-4 in vrinter); on Mon., Tues., 
Wed., & Sat. on application. The public park of St. Quentin, known 
as the Champs'Elysees (PL C, 3), lies to the E. of the older quarters 
of the town. 

Fbom St. Quentin to Guise, 25 M., railway in IV4 hr. (fares 4 fr. 10, 
2 fr. 10, 2 fr. 26 c). — lOVa M. Ribemont (Tonnelierj Dubois), an indnstrial 
town with 2627 inhabiUnts. — 25 M. Guise (Buffei-Hdtel; Couronne)^ an 
industrial town with 7776 inhab., is commanded by an ancient castle, part 
of which dates from the I6th century. In 1339 the English, under John of 
Hainault, burned the town, but the castle was successfully defended by the 
wife of its lord, no other than the daughter of John of Hainault himself. 
Guise was the birthplace of Camille Desmoulins (1762-94), the revolutionary. 
In the Rue de Cambrai is the exceedingly interesting FamilitUre^ or com- 
munistic workmen^s colony, including a Phalanstire, or large common 
dwelling-house for the members, founded about 1850 by J. B. Godin (d. 1888) 
on the plan advocated by Fourier. — Railway to Laon and Valenciennes 
(see p- 78); another to Birson (p. 66) is under construction. 

Another line runs to (2OV2 M.) Roitel (Ep^hy, V^lu, and Bertincourt; 
p. 62), vi& (7V« M.) Vermand, which some authorities identify with the 
Augusta Veromanduorum of the Romans (comp. p. 72). — A narrow-gauge 
line connects St. Quentin with (35V2M.) Caudry-CambHsis (see below). 

IO8V2 M. Boliain (Hdiel du Nord), an ancient town with 6788 
inhab., many times besieged and captured between 1183 and 1815. 
— 1121/2 M. Bnsigny (Buffet- Hdtel; H6t. du Nord), 

A branch -line runs from Busigny to (35 M.) Eirson (p. 66), passing 
various places of industrial importance, including (8^/3 M.) Wassignu^ also 
a station on the line from Valenciennes to Laon via Guise (see p. 78). 

From Busigny to Cambrai and thence to Valenciennes, see pp. 61, 63. 

Beyond Busigny our lino diverges to the right from the line to 
Cambrai and crosses the valley of the Selle by a viaduct 86 ft high. 

118 M. Le Catean (Mouton Blanc)^ a town with 10,700 inhab., 
on the Selle, with important woollen and merino spinning - mills, 
derives its name from an ancient chateau, originally built about 
the 11th cent, by the Bishops of Cambrai. A peace between England, 
Fiance, and Spain, was signed here in 1559. 

A railway runs from Le Cateau to (16 M.) Cafni>rai (p. 62), passing 
(71/2 M.) Caudrj/'Cambritis, whence there are branch-lines to St. Quentin 
(see above) and Denain (p. 45). — The railway proceeds to the B. of 
Gaudry to (6V2 M.) Cotillon, 

From Le Gateau to Valenciennes and to Laon, see p. 78. 

I22V2 M. Ors. The valley of the Samhre is now entered. — 
125V2 M. Landreoieg CH6t. de la Tete-d'Or, D. 3 fr.), h^^^^^^"" 

' ^ Digitized by V^OOQ IC 

74 Route 11. MAUBEUGE. From Pari$ 

the Sambie, with 3924 inhab., was the birthplace of Dupleix (1697- 
1764), founder of the French power in India, who is commemorated 
by a bronze statue, by Fagel. — We pass the S.E. end of the forest 
of Mormal (p. 66). — 129 M. Hachette (Maroilles). — Beyond 
(132 M.) SoMtgniea we cross the Sambre and pass under the line 
to Valenciennes. To the right is the line from Hirson; to the left 
is BerlaknorU. 

184 M. Aolnoje (Buffet-mUl), IV4 M. from the viUage. Rail- 
way from Valenciennes to Hirson (Calais-Nancy), see R. 10. 

The main line continues to follow the valley of the Sambre, 
crossing the river several times. — 189 M. Hantmont (H6L du Com-' 
meree), an industrial town with 13,128 inhabitants. At (141 M.) 
8ou8'U-Boi8 the line to Mens (see below) diverges to the left 

142 M. Manbenge {Buffet- Hdtel ; Hot, du Orand-Cerf, R. 2-3, 
D. 3 fr.; d« to P08U et du Nord, R. 2-3, D. 8 fr.), a fortress of the 
first class, situated on both banks of the Sambre, with 21,620 in- 
hab. , owes its origin to a nunnery and monastery, founded in the 
7th cent by St Aldegonda. The veil and a sandal of the saint are 
preserved in the church. Maubeuge became the capital of Hainault, 
and passed to France by the peace of Nimwegen in 1678. Iii 1793 
the town was invested by the prince of Saxe-Coburg, but it was 
relieved by the battle of WattigrUea (a hamlet 71/2 M. to the S.), 
commemorated since 1898 by a Monument in the town. It carries 
on very extensive manufactures of tools, implements, horse-shoes, 
and other metal goods. The painter Jan Gk>ssaert (1470-1532), better 
known as Mabuse, was bom here. 

Fbou Maubbugb to Mons (BrusUU)y 13 M., railway in 1-2 hrs. — 1 H. 
Sout-le-Boit (see above). — IV4 M. Feiffnies (baffet) ia the last French station. 
About IV4 M. to the W. is Malplaquet^ where Marshal ViUars was defeated 
in 1709 by the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eugene, and where Oeneral 
Pichegru defeated the Duke of York in 1794. — The Belgian custom-house 
examination takes place at (6^/2 M.) Qu^vy (buffet). Belgian time (Greenwich 
time) is 4 min. behind Parisian time. — Beyond (12 M.) Cuesme* we traverse 
the coal-fields of Mons, the nchest in Belgium. — 13 M. Mona (B4t0l 
SchmiU; d« VEipiranee; Jadot)^ Flem. Bergen^ the capital of Hainault^ 
with 27,000 inhab., has a fine Cathedrai (1460-1689), a Belfrf of 1662, an Mat4l 
de Tille of the Ibth cent., etc. For farther details, and for the railway 
from Mons to Brussels, see Baedeker^s Belgium and Holland. 

Fbom Maubeuob to Hibsoh (Coutotrt)^ 33V2 M., railway in 11/2-2 hrs. 
(fares 6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 10, 2 fr. 65 c). — From (3Va M.) FerrHre-la'Orande a 
branch runs to Coutolre^ a town 6V2 M. to the E., with marble-quarries. 
— 10V« M. Sars-Poterietf with important glass-works. A branch-line (9V« M. 
in 1/3 hr.) runs hence to Ave»ne$ (p. 66). — 13 M. 8olre-le-Chdteau, The cha- 
teau no longer exists. The Church (15th cent.) has good old stained glass ; tha 
Mairie and some other houses date from the 16^ century. — At (IT^/a M.) 
Liessies is an ancient abbey-church of the 16th century. The Forett of 
TrHon. which we next traverse, is 7400 acres in extent. 251/2 M. Fottrmies 
(p. 66) \ 281/2 M. Anor (p. 78). — 8372 M. Hirson, see p. 66. 

From Maubeuge to Valmeiennes, see p. 49. 

146 M. Recquignies^ with mirror-works. — 148 M. Jeumont 
(buffet) is the last French station. Passengers' luggage coming tiom. 
Belgium is examined here, unless booked through to Paris. 

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toNamur, LAON. 11. Route, 7b 

150 M. Erquelines {Bufftt-HdUl, d6j. 3, D. 31/3 fr.). Luggage 
^ot registered to pass througli Belgium is here examined by the 
Belgian custom-house officers. The railway continues to follow the 
yaUey of the Samhre. — 168 M. Thuin. 

i68 M. Charleroi (Buffet; HtUl BeukeUera; Sieberit; Qruhtr), 
a manofaotnring town and fortress, with 24,500 inhah., was founded 
hy Charles II. of Spain in 1666. — 177 M. Tamines is the junction 
for Dinant (29 M.), Fleurus (5V2 M.), etc. 

191 M. iVamttr, see p. Bl. 

b. Yii SoissonSi Laon, and Anor. 

194 M. Railway in 7Vs-12Vs hrs. (fares about 83 fr. 90, 22 fr. 45, 14 fr. 25 c. ; 
BO through-tickets). Trains start from the Gare du Nord (see p. 81). 

From Paris to (65 M.) Soissona^ see pp. 81, 82. The line to Laon 
diverges to the left from that to Rheims, and crosses the Aime, Fine 
view of Soissons. — ^l^j^^. Crouy; 71 M. Margival, Then, beyond 
a tunnel 700 yds. long, (74 M^ Vauxaillon, — 76 M. Anizy-Finon, 

Railway to Chauny^ see p. 7i. — A diligence plies frum Anisy to 
(5 M.) Pr4montr4^ formerly celebrated for its Abbey ^ founded by St. Koribert 
in 1120, and the mother-house of the Preemonstratensian order of canons 
regular, who followed the rule of St. Augustine. The present buildings, 
dating from the 18th cent., are occupied as a lunatic asylum. — An electric 
tramway to (41/2 M.) St. Oobain (p. 71) is to be opened in 1909. 

80 M. Chailvet-Urcel, Urcelj 1^2 M» to the S., has a curious 
church of the ll-13th centuries. The town of Laon comes in sight 
on the right. At (84 M.) Clacy-Mona we join the line from Tergnier. 

87 M. Laon. — The Railway Station (270 ft.) is connected with 
the town by an electric railway (ascent in 7 min., 40 or 25 c, down in 
4 min., 25 or 15 e. ; omnibus 60 c). 

Hotels. Db i.'£cc-de-Fbamcb (PI. b*, 0, 1), Rue David 23, R. from 2, 
B. 1, d^j. or D. 8, pens, from 8 fr.$ ds la Hdbb (PI. a^ C, 1), Rue du 
Bourg 4; DB LA Banni^bk (PI. c; C, 1), Rue David i do Nobd (PI. d; 
D, 1), opposite the station. — Oafea. Le la Comidiey Place de THetel- 
de-Ville-, others at the station. 

Oaba. From the station to the town 1 fir. : per drive 75 c. ; per hr. 
IV2 fr. (2 fr. beyond the octroi-limits). Double tare after 11 p.m. 

Foat ft Telegraph Office (PI. 8-, D, 2), Rue Ghfitelaine 45. 

Laouy with 15,288 inhab., is the capital of the department of 
the Aiane and a fortress commanding the 'Troupe de TOise'. The 
town is built in the midst of an extensive plain, on a long. Isolated 
hill (595 ft.) running E. and W., with an elongated spur stretching 
to the S. and bounding the curious valley mentioned at p. 77. 

Laon is the ancient iMgudtmum Remorum^ subsequently named Lau- 
dunum. It was a favourite residence of the later Garlovingian kings. From 
before 5(X) until 1789 it was the seat of a bishop, second in rank to the 
Archbishop of Rheims alone; and in the middle ages its history is mainly 
a record of the struggles of the townsmen to found their liberties and 
maintain them against the encroachments of the bishops. The English oc- 
cupied Laon from 1410 till 1429; and it suffered severely in the later religious 
wars, bfeing captured by Henri IV in 1594. In 1814 Napoleon was defeated 
under the walls of Laon and compelled to fall back upon Soissons; and 
in 1815 the Allies peeupled the town after a fortnight's siege. In 1870 Laon 
capitulated to the Germans without a blow, but as the latter were entering 

Digitized by LnOCDQlC 

76 BouU 11, LAON. From Fork 

the dtadel, a French private of engineers, named Henriot, blew up the 
powder-magazine, killing 79 Germans and 2^9 Frenchmen Occluding him- 
self)* — Laon was the Mrthplace of the Abbi MarqveUe^ who discovered 
the Mississippi in 1673, of the brothers Le Nain^ painters in the 17th cent., 
and of Marshal Sirurier (see below). 

The carriage-road ascends in carves to the left from the end of 
the avenue opposite the Station (PI. D, 1); but pedestrians may 
mount directly to the (1/4 hr.) town, by means of a stairway with 
263 steps, interrupted by inclined planes. A little farther on we 
turn to the left into the Rue du Bourg, which leads to tiie cathedral. 
On the right side of the street is the public Library (PI. 1, C, 1 ; 
open daily 1 to 4 or 6, except Sun. & holidays); a fine Motaic of 
Orpheus and the animals (2nd cent A.D.) is shown here. A short 
distance beyond is the Place de I'Hdtel-de-ViUe (Pi. 0, 1 ; with the 
terminus of the electric railway), embellished with a bronze Statue 
of Marshal Sirurier (PI. 4; 1742-1819), by Doublemard. 

The Rue du Bourg, continued by the Rue Chatelaine, leads to the 
church of •Notrk-Damb (PI. D, 2), still called the CathedraL A 
church existed on this fine site at the beginning of the 12th cent, 
but it was burned down in 1112, and the present building, one of 
the most interesting churches in the N. of France, dates from the 
12-13th centuries. It is at present under restoration. The length 
of the church (outside measurement) is 397 ft, the breadth across 
the nave is 100 ft, across the transepts 175 ft ; the vaulting is 79 ft 
high. The characteristic feature of this church is its fine group of 
lofty towers and spires. The Ta^adey a masterpiece of pure Gothic, 
is flanked by two bold and graceful towers, 184 ft high, which 
were originally surmounted by spires. The lower part of these 
towers is square, the upper octagonal, while above the buttresses at 
the angles rise belfries of two stories, adorned on the second story 
with figures of oxen, in memory of the animals who dragged the 
stones from the plain to the site of the building. It was originally 
intended to erect two similar towers at each end of the transepts, 
but only two of these have been completed (198 ft. high). The 
square lantern-tower above the crossing, 159 ft high, is now crowned 
by a low pyramidal roof instead of the original taU spire. 

The Intekiob vies in interest with the exterior. The transepts also are 
divided into nave and aisles, which, like those of the nave itself, are 
separated by substantial cylindrical columns, from the capitals of which (all 
sculptured differently) slender columns rise to the vaulUng. The aisles 
are furnished with lofty galleries beneath the triforium; the chapels at 
the sides were added in the 13-14th cent., but the screens at the entrances, 
fitted into the arcades of the former windows, date from the 16-17th cent- 
uries. At the end of each transept is an ancient chapel of two stories. 
The E. end of the choir, pierced by a rose-window and three other win- 
dows, is square, as in English cathedrals, a form which frequently recurs 
in the churches of this diocese and is said to be due to the influence of 
an Englishman who held the see in the early part of the 12th century. 
There are rose-windows also above the W. and "S, portals, but that above 
the 8. portal was replaced at a later date by one huge window occupying 
the whole wall. The stained glass in the rose-windows and in the windows 
of the choir is good. The carved wooden piQpit dates from 1681. 

to Namur, LAON. 11. BouU. 77 

The Palais de Justice (PL D, 2), to the left of the choir, was 
formerly the bishop's palace (13th cent.). It retains a few remnants 
of a Gothic cloister and a subterranean chapel. 

The Ruelle des Templiers, the second street to the right of the 
Rne du Glottre beyond Notre-Dame, leads into a street running from 
the Place de rH6tel-de-Ville to the Citadel (PI. E, 2). 

Opposite the ^Ruelle' is the Mus^e (PI. D, 2), in a building at 
the side of a garden surrounding a Chapel of the Templars y of 1134. 
The Mus^e is open to the public on Thurs. & Sun., 1-5 (1-4 in 
winter); on other days on application. It contains antiquities dis- 
covered in the neighbourhood, small bronzes, antique vases, and 
some ancient and modern paintings. The marble statue of Qabrielle 
d'Estr^es (d, 1599), mistress of Henri IV, is noteworthy. 

From the Promenades (PL C, D, 2) to the S. of the Mus^e a 
charming *View is obtained of the opposite side of the hill of Laon. 
The hill here, with its steep sides , encloses a V-shaped valley or 
ravine, partly wooded and partly covered with gardens and vineyards, 
which is known as the Cuve de St. Vincent (PI. B, 0,2). The 13th cent. 
Gothic gateway seen here (^Porte d'Ardon; PL I>, 2) is a relic of the 
early fortifications. Farther to the W. is the Prifecture (PL C, D, 2), 
in the former Abbaye St. Jean. A street leads hence to the Place de 
l'H6tel-de-Ville, near which is the Porte des Chenizelles (PL C, 2). 
another 13th cent, gateway (restored in 1895). Other interesting old 
buildings are to be seen in different parts of the town (e. g. Rue 
Serurier, Nos. 7, 33, 53). 

The Rue St Jean and Rue St Martin lead from the Place de I'Hdtel- 
de-Ville to the Chubch of St. Mabtin (PL B, 1, 2), at the other end 
of the town, a collegiate church of 1140, in the Transition style, with 
two transeptal towers, built in the 13th century. In the interior, to 
the right of the entrance, is a tomb in black marble (12th cent.), with 
a recumbent statue, erroneously described as that of a Sire de Coucy 
(p. 71). The white marble tomb opposite has a fine statue repre- 
senting the widow of one of the Sires de Coucy, who died as an abbess 
in 1335. A chapel on the S. side of the nave, with a stone screen 
of 1540, contains an Ecce Homo of the 16th century. 

Behind the church are the Lycie (PL B, 2) and the Hotel' Dieu. 
A little farther on, near the ruined Porte 8t. Martin, is the Monu- 
ment des Jnstitutturs (PL 6; B, 2), raised in 1899 to the memory of 
three schoolmasters shot by the Germans in 1870. — On the S. end 
of the heights forming the *cuve' is the former Abbaye St. Vincent 
(PL B, 0, 3), now occupied by military engineers. 

Fbou La on to MftziftRES-CHABLKViLLB VIA LiABT, 53 M., railway in 
SVa-S*/* hrs. (fares 10 fr. 40, 7 fr. 5, 4 fr. 60 c). Carriages are changed at 
Liart, where we pass from the Chemin de Fer du Nord to the State rail- 
way. — 8 M. Liesae (Troit Rois; St. Nicolat; Lion cTOr), a village famou'j 
for the miraculous image of Notre-Datne-de-Lieste, dating from the 12th 
century. The church was buUt in the i4-15th centuries. — Several ajnaii 
stations are passed, including (21 M.) Montcornet, a small town with a ra"^ 
mediaeval chateau and remains of fortifications of the 16th century. 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 

78 Boute 11, VERVINS. From Pdfh 

37 H. lAart (p. 66) is the junotion of the line from Hirson to Berlgny. — 
At (62 M.) TournM (p. 67) we join the railway from Hirson to MiHires. 

Fboh Laok to Valknoisnnes, 80 M.. railway in 4Vs-6 hrs. (fores 
14 fr. 35, 9 fr. 70, 6 fr. 35 c). At (12 M.) Methreeourt we cross the Serre, 
an affluent of the Oise, and at (28 M.) Fletvignv-le-Orand we enter the valley 
of the Oi$e. — 81 M. Guise, see p. 73. — The Oise is erossed, and several 
small stations are passed. — From (3S M.) Wauigny, on ue line from 
Busigny to Hirson, express-trains run direct via (427« M.) &t. Soitpld to 
(45 M.) Le Gateau, while other trains make a detour via Busigny. ~ 
56V2 M. Le Gateau, see p. 73. — To the right is the line to Maubeuge 
(p. 74). — 64 M. Solesmeg (Soleil d'Or), a linen-manufacturing place with 
5910 inhabitants. To Cambrai and Bavai, see p. 63. — We continue to 
traverse an industrial district, passing numerous stations. — 751/2 M . lYouvy- 
TJHatU is the junction for Somain via Lourches. — 80 M. Vakncie»neSy 
see p. 46. 

From Laon to Amiens and to RMmt, etc., see R. 9. 

Beyond Laon the line to Hirson soon diverges to the left from 
that to Rheims. From (96 M.) Dercy-Mortier$ a hranch-line rans 
to Versigny (p. 64). We ascend the valley of the Serre, Beyond 
(102 M.) Marie (narrow-gauge line to Montcomet^ see above) the 
train passes into the valley of the Vilpion, — 111 M. Yervins (H6t 
du Cheval-Noir; de la Qare), a town with 3187 inhah., is noted for 
the treaty concluded here in 1598 between Henri lY and Philip II. of 
Spain. — 119 M. Origny-en-ThUrache. La ThUrache was the name 
given to this district because from 696 to 613 it formed part of the 
domains of Thierry, King of Burgundy. Its capital was Guise 
(p. 73). — The valley of the Thon is now crossed by means of a 
viaduct, 60 ft high. 

1221/2 M. Hirson (Buffet), see p, 66. — 128 M. Anor (Cloche d:Or ; 
de la Oare), with 4604 inhabitants. Railway to Aulnoye and Valen- 
ciennes, see pp. 66, 65. — 133 M. Momignies is the first Belgian 
station (custom-house examination). — 14072 M. Chimay (H6t. de 
PUnivers), a town with 3000 inhab., has a chateau belonging to the 
Prince of Chimay and a statue of Froiasart, the chronicler (d. 1410V 
— 160 M. Mariembourg. Railway to (2972 M.) Charieroi (p. 76)} 
to (IO72 M.) Vireux, see p. 80. — 168 M. Romer^e. — 164 M. 
Doische^ junction for Ch&telineau (27 M.) and for Givet (p. 80). — 
166 M. Agimont 'Village. At (169 M.) Hoitare - Lavaux (p. 80) 
we join the line from Givet to Namur. 

0. Yii 8oiMons» Bheims, and Misi^res. 

228 M. Railway in 81/4-131/4 hrs. 24 o throagh-tickets. Fares from Paris 
to Oivtt about 85 f^. 25, 23 fr. 85, 15 fr. 50 c.; from Oivet to Namur 4 fr. 85, 
3 fr. 25, 1 fr. 95 c. Trains start from the Oare dn Kord, though between 
Soissons and Givet the Chemin de Fer de TEst is traversed. 

From Paris to (164 M.) Miti^Tes-aiarleville, see RR. 12, 14 d. 

The railway soon begins to descend the picturesque •Valley of the 
Henae, at the W. extremity of the Ardennes^ a region formerly famous for 
its forests, and containing on this side hills more than 1600 ft. high. The river 
pursues its capricious course between lofty slate-diOis, raising their steep 
wood'dad slopes to the height of several hundred feet, and often approach- 
ing so dose as to leave no room even for a footpath beside the river. The 
railway-jonrney through this beautiful region is very interesting and com- 


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to Namur. M0NTHERM6. 11. Route, 79 

mands constantly varying, though often only too momentary, Tiews as the 
train crosses and recrosses the meandering stream. Some of the finest 
points, moreover, are passed in the train by means of tunnels, so that it is 
advisable to visit them on foot, e.g. the conntry between Monthermd and 
Fumay, and .the neighbourhood of Dinant. The valley is enlivened by 
numerous iron-works, nail-works, and other industrial establishments. 

The railway now follows the right bank of the Mease to near 
Montherm^, traversing the peninsula of Mont Olympe (see p. 94). 
168 M. Nouzon (H6t. du Nord ; de la Poste), picturesquely situated, 
with 7574 inhab., is an important centre of the metallic industry. 
161 M. Joigny^aur-Meuse. — Beyond (164 M.) Braux - Levrezy 
the line enters one of the most picturesque parts of the valley. 
The Rockers de$ Quatre-FUs-Aymon are pierced by a tunnel 
560 yds. long. 

The *Fonr Sons of Aymon\ Renand, Ouiscard, Ad^lard, and Richard, 
'preux chevaliers' of the court of Charlemagne, are the heroes of various 
remarkable adventures related in numerous chansons and legends of the 
middle ages. They were in the habit of riding one behind the other on 
the wonderful horse Bayard, presented to them by the fairy Orlande. 

1 641/2 M. MonthermS'ChdteaU'Regnault-Bogny, Industrial vil- 
lages on the right and left bank. 

Montherm6 {Hdiel de la Pais, by the bridge), with 4170 inhab. and 
extensive slate-quarries , lies about 2 M. to the 17. (omnibus 80 c. } also 
tramway to Lavalditu^ V/4 M. on the way). The village occupies a peculiar 
site, at the head of a loop formed here by the Meuse, not far from its 
junction with the Semoy^ which enters it at Lavaldieu (see below). 

The heights of the neighbouring peninsula command fine views. We 
may descend thence, on the S.W., to the station of (3 M. )D9vilU (see below). 
▲ preferable route leads to the K.W. to (SVz M.) Lai/our (see below). 
Pedestrians will find the valley interesting as far as Bevin, 6 H. farther 
on. The route follows the Meuse, and beyond Laifour comes in sight of the 
Dame* d« Meu8« (see below). 3 M. Anchamptf 3 M. Revin (see below). 

The Valley of the Semoy, still more sinuous than that of the Meuse, 
offers many picturesque points, especially in its lower or French part, 
in which a narrow-gauge line runs from Hontherm^ to Lavaldieu^ Thilay 
(7 M.), and Les ffmttes-Riviirti (11 M.) Hot. Bobinet). — The excursion 
may be extended to Bo?ian (inn), the first Belgian village, or even to 
Bouillon (p. 97). . 

Beyond Montherm^ station we cross to the left bank of the 
Meuse by means of a bridge and a tunnel 1/2 M. long, penetrating 
the peninsula of Montherm^. — 167 M, Devilled with large slate 
quarries. On the right rise the fine Cliffs of Laifour. Beyond 
(I6972M.) Laifour'zx^ a bridge and a tunnel, 540 yds. long. On the 
left are the Cliffs of the Dames de Meuse. Another bridge and tunnel. 

174 M. BeTin {H6t. de la Qare^ R. from 2, D. 3 fr.), an industrial 
town with 5377 inhab., occupies two peninsulas formed by the 
river. It has two suspension - bridges. The Mont MalgrS-Tout 
(1310 ft.), to the E., commands a splendid view. — A diligen'-e 
(172^0 plies from Revin to Roeroi (p. 67). 

The railway crosses the Meuse once more andtraverses the isth- 
mus of Revin. A subterranean canal about 600 yds. long also crossts 
the isthmus, cutting off the circuit of 3 M. made by the river, 

180 M. Fumay (Hotel de la Qare; du Commerce), a town with 

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80 RouUll. DINANT. 

6836 inhab., is situated aboat 3/4 M. to the N.E. of the station 
(omn. 25 c), on an oTal-shaped peninsula. Besides iron-works, it 
possesses the largest slate- quarries in the valley. The handsome 
Church is modern. 

Beyond Fumay the train enters a long tunnel and emerges on 
the bank of the river near the town. 183 M. Haybes, 187 M. Vkeui- 
MoUiain (Hot. de la Gare) is the junction of a line to Charleroi 
viH Mariembourg (p. 78). In the distance (left) appears the pictur- 
esque ruined Chdteau des Hierges, — 189 M. Aubrioes. A little 
farther on the river makes another bend, cut off by the railway 
and a partly subterranean canal. We approach Givet by a tunnel 
below the citadel. 

194 M. Givet (Buffet; *0r,-H6U d'Angleterre, R. from 31/2, B. I1/4, 
d^j. or D. 4, omn. V2 ft".; Mont^dTOr, R. from 21/2, B. 1, d6j. or 
D. 3V2» omn. V2 ^m good), with 7648 inhab., is situated on both 
banks of the Mouse, about 1/2 M. to the right of the station. The 
fortifications were demolished in 1892, with the exception of the 
citadel of Charlemont^ perched on a rock 700 ft. high, on the W. 
side, and so called because founded by Charles V. Givet became 
French at the close of the 17th century. The composer Mihul (1763- 
1817) was born here, and a statue was erected to him in 1892 near 
the station. The best view of the picturesque town is obtained from 
the bridge uniting it with Owet-Notre-Dame^ the suburb on the 
right bank. The citadel commands another fine view. 

Excursion-cars ply twice daily in summer to the Orotles de JSichety 
curious caverns (adm. 2 fr.) at Fromelennes^ 272 M. to the E., and to Landri- 
champs^ 5 M. farther on (return - fares 75 c. and IV2 fr.). — Excursion- 
steamers in July -Sept. ply both up and down the Meuse. — From Givet 
an omnibus (1 fr.) plies daily to (6 M.) Beauraing^ whence a visit may be 
paid to the grottoes of Han-tur-Lesse and Rochefort (see Baedeker"* Beigktm 
d: Holland). 

Givet is the last French station. The railway still follows the 
valley of the Meuse ; for details see Biedeker'a Belgium ^ Holland, 
The line to Doische (p. 78) and Ohatelineau diverges to the 
left. — The Belgian custom-house is at (199 M.) Heer-AgimonU 
Belgian time (Greenwich time) is 4 min. behind French time. The 
line to Hirson (p. 78) diverges to the left. — 201 1/2 M. Haatilrt" 
Lavaux (p. 78). 

211 M. Dinant (H6t, des Posies, R. from 4, dtfj. 3, D. 4fr. ; de la 
Tite-d'Or, R. from 3, D. 31/2 fr. ; des Families, R. from 3, D. 2 fr. ; 
des Ardennesy R. from 2, D. 21/2 fr.)) » *own with 7700 inhab., is very 
picturesquely situated at the base of barren limestone cliffs, crowned 
by a Citadel. The cliff-scenery of the neighbourhood is interesting. 

Branch -line to Jemelle (grottoes of Han-flur-Lesse and Rochefort), see 
Baedeker^s Belgium & Holland. 

Beyond Dinant, to the left, lies its ancient rival Bouvignes, with 
the ruined castle of Crevecoeur, We cross the Meuse. — 216 M. 
Yvoir, about IV2 M, to the W. of which is the castle of Montaigle, 
the finest ruin of the kind in Belgium. — Beyond a tunnel is the 

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FfeRE-EN-TARDENOIS. i2. Route, 81 

station of TaiUefer, — On the left the old citadel of Namur is seen. 
The Mense is ciossed for the last time. 

228 M. Sfamur f^HdUl d'Harscamp, R. from 3, D. 4 fr. ; H6t. 
St. Aubin; de Flandrt; de la Couronne; de HoUande), the strongly 
fortified capital of the province, with 31,200 inhah., at the con- 
fluence of the Sombre and the Meuse^ see Baedeker 8 Belgium and 

12. From Paris to Eheims. 
a. Yii Meavz and La Ferti-Milon. 

97 M. Railway (Gare de TEst ; PI. C, 24) in l»/4-4V» hrs (fares 17 fr. 55, 
11 ft. 90, 7fr. 70 c). Dining-car on the afternoon-express (d^i. SVz, D. 41/3 fr.). 

* From Paris to (311/2 M.) Trilport, see R.'15. The Rheims line 
diverges to the N. from that to Chalons , and beyond (35V2 M.) 
JsUS'ArmentiereB crosses the Mame and then ascends the valley of 
the Ourcq, Three small stations. 

50 M. La Ferti-Milon (H6t, du Sauvage), a small town on the 
Ourcq, was the birthplace of Racine (1639-99), the dramatist, to 
whom a statue, by David d' Angers, has been erected here. The 
ruins of the Castle (begun by Louis d^OrMans , p. 70) date mainly 
from the 14th century. In a niche on each of the towers is a statue 
of one of the nine *preuses' (p. 70). The churches of St. Nicolas 
(Gothic and Renaissance) and Notre-Dame (12th and 16th cent.) 
contain good stained glass of the 16th cent., etc. 

Branch -lines run hence to (SVz M.) Vittera - CoUereU (p. 82) and, to 
(17>/2 M.) CMteau-Thierry (p. 101) via OulchyBreny. 

68 M. F^re-en-Tardenois (H6U du Pot-d^Etain) has an interest- 
ing church. On a hill, l*/4 M. to the N., rises a picturesque ruined 
CastUy built in the 13th cent., but altered in the 16th by the Con- 
stable Anne de Montmorency. — Beyond Fere the train quits the 
valley of the Ourcq by means of a long and deep cutting. — 75 1/2 M. 
Mont'Notre-Dame, with a church of the 12-1 3th cent, and an 
18th cent, chateau. We cross the Veale, and join the line from 
Soissons (see p. 83). — 771/2 M. Bazoches, with a ruined castle 
(12-1 3th cent). — 71 M. Fiames (H6t. Vtfron), a small town, the 
Fines Suesiionum of the Romans. — 97 M. i^fteiriM (buffet), see p. 84. 

b. Yi& Soissons. 

991/2 M. Railway (Gare du Nord; PI. B, C, 23, 24) in 2^/i-b hrs. (fares 
as above). — For farther details as far as Cr^py-en-Valois, see Baedeker^s 
Handbook to Paris. 

The train traverses the district of La Chapelle, quits Paris near 
St. Ouen, and at (21/2 M.) La Plaine-St- Denis diverges to the right 
from the main Ligne du Nord. 41/2 M. Aubervilliers-la-Coumeuve. 
— 6 M. Le Bourget-Drancy. Le Bourget^ to the left, was the scene 
of sanguinary straggles between the French and Germans in 1870. — 

6aidbkbii's Kortbeni France. 5th Kdit, Digitized by QoOglc 

82 Route 72. SOISSONS. From Paris 

9^2 M. Aulnay-lhS'Bondy (p. 100). On the right is the forest of 
Bendy. The train skirts the Canal de VOurcq. — 21 V2 M. Dam- 
martmj near which is the ColVtge de Juilly, founded by the Ora- 
torians in the 17th century. — 2672 M. Le Plessis-BelleviUe. In 
the park, of the chateau of ErmenonvUU^ 3 M. to the left (omnibus, 
1 fr.), is the original tomb of Jean Jacques Rousseau, whose remains 
were removed to the Pantheon at Paris in 1794. 

40 M. Cripy-en-Yalois flfd^ des Trois-Pigeons; de la Gare)^ with 
5375 inhabk, was the ancient capital of a district which belonged 
from the 14th cent, to a younger branch of the royal family of 
France. Branch-railways to Chantilly and Gompi^gne, see pp. 68, 70. 

4872 M. Yillers-Cotterets (Hdtel du Dauphin; Pomme d'Or; 
Epie)^ with 6381 inhab., was the birthplace of Alexandre Dumaa 
the Elder (1803-70), to whom a statue, by A. Carrier-Belleuse, was 
erected here in 1885. The ancient Chdteau^ rebuilt under Francis 1. 
but disfigured in the 18th cent., is now a poor-house. 

A branch-line runs hence through the Forest of Villers-Cotterett fpleas- 
ant excursions) to (8V2 M.) La Ferti-Milon (p. 81). — Railway to Pierre- 
fends and Gompi^gne, see p. 70. 

56 M. Longpont (hotels) ha's a ruined abbey, dating f^om the 
12th century. — Beyond (58^2 M.) Vierzy the train traverses a 
tunnel, upwards of 3/^ M, in length, and reaches (62 M.) Berzy- 
le-Sec. On the left runs the line from Gompi^gne to Soissons. 

65 M. Soissons. — HoteU. lion Bodob, Rue St. Martin 53, R. from 3, 
B. li/t-iVa, d^j. 3, D. 3Vs, omn. 1/2 fr.; Gsoix d'Ob, Rue St. Ghristophe 
25, B. from 2V8, B. 11/4, d^j. 8, D. 81/2, omn. i/a fr., good; Soleil d"Ob. — 
Cqfi du JAon Rouge^ adjoining the hotel ; Bvffety with bedroom.", at the 
station, meal IVs-oVz fr. 

Oabs. Per drive i-2 pers. 76 c., 3 pers. 1 fr. 10, 4 pers. 1 fr. 60 c., 
outside the oetroi-limits and also per hr., 1V«. 2, or 2>/2 fr. — Tram-way 
from the station to ihe town (i/s M. ; 10 c.) and to 8t. Waatt^ see p. 83. 

8oi88on$j an ancient town formerly fortified, with 14,334 inhab., 
is situated on the Aisne^ V2 ^- ^I'^m the station. It carries on a 
considerable grain-trade, and is noted for its haricot- beans. 

Soissons is generally identified with IToviodunvm^ the chief town of the 
Suestonet, mentioned by Oeesar, called under the early empire Augusta 
Suessonum^ and afterwards Suetsiona. It is celebrated for the defeat of the 
Romans under Syagrius in i86 by Clovis. Under the Franks Soissons was an 
important town and became the capital of Keustria. It enjoys an unenviable 
notoriety for the great number of sieges it has undergone, the record only 
closing in October, 1870, when the Germans entered it after a bombardment 
of four days. SB. Crispin and Grispinian are said to have suffered martyrdom 
here in 297, and their successor dt. Sinice is regarded as the first bishop 
of Soissons. In 829, and again in 833, Louis the Debonair was imprisoned 
in the town by his undutiful sons. 

An avenue leads from the station to the Place de la R^publique, 
where a Monument was erected in 1901 to the citizens shot by the 
Germans in 1870. A turning to the left of the Place leads us 
to the ancient ^Portal of St. Jean- des -Vignes, the chief part now 
remaining of the Abbey (founded in 1076) in which Thomas Becket 
spent nine years. It is in the style of the 14th rent., flanked by 
handsome towers of a later date (15-16th cent.),^rising with their 

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toRhcims, SOISSONS. 1^. Route. 83 

spires to the height of 230 and 245 ft. There are also beautiful 
cloisters adjoining the S. tower (adm. to portal and cloisters 20 c. 

The * Cathedral ( Notre- Dame)^ which rises on the right a little 
farther on, is a fine example of mixed Romanesque and Gothic of the 
12-13th centuries. The W. facade, with three doors and a beautiful 
Gothic rose- window, is flanked on the S. side by a tower 215 ft. 
high (14th cent.). 

The admirably proportioned Int£:bior contains acme tapestry of the 
jdth cent., an Adoration of the Shepherds, aitiibnted to Rabens, some 
excellent old stained glass, and a few tombs of historical interest. Tke 
transepts, which also have aisle.*, form as it were a church in themselves, 
the choir being represented by the S. transept (the oldest p&rt of the church), 
which ends in an apse and has an ambulatory,' galleries, and a trifoiium. 
On the E. it is adjoined by a chapel of two storie?. The rrcsent choir 
dates from 1212. 

From the Grande Place, where the Theatre is situated, we next 
enter (to the right) a long street traversing the entire town, and 
containing several edifices of interest. The Abbaye St. Liger retains 
its church partly of the 13th cent., with a facade of the 17th. There 
are two crypts (one of the 9th and 10th cent.) and remains of 
cloisters of the 14th century. Intending visitors apply at No. 8, 
Rue de la Congregation. — The H6tel de Ville (18th cent.), near 
the N.E. extremity of the town, contains the Library on the ground- 
floor, and a small Musie (antiquities, paintings, etc.) on the first 
floor. — The Abbaye Notre-Dame, at the end of the Rue dn Com- 
merce (to the left of the H6tel de Ville), is now used as a banack. 
In the neighbouring Place are the scanty remains of the Roman- 
esque Church of 8t. Pierre (12th cent.). 

On the right bank of the Aisne is situated the suburb of St. Wetast, 
and a little farther down is the hamlet of 8t. M4d<xrd, famous for its once 
powerful and wealthy abbey. This abbey played a leading part even under 
the Merovingian and Carlo vingian kings, and in 1530 it was visited by 
300,000 pilgrims. Its decline dates from the religious wars of the close of 
the 16th cent. (1568), and its site is now occupied by a Deaf and Dumb 
Asylum, Among the scanty remains of the old buildings are pointed ou*t a 
cell in which Louis the Debonair is said to have pined (883), and a tower 
reputed to have been the prison of Ab^lard. The inscription on the wall 
of the former is not older than the 14th century. 

Railway to Compihgne^ see pp. 70, 69; to Laony see p. 75. — A narrow- 
gauge railway runs from Soissons via (9Va M) Condi-sur-Aime (Roman 
camp; church and chapel of the 12th cent.) to (SB'/xM.) Quignicourt (p. 64), 
whence it is continued to Retftel (p. 93^ 23 M. farther). 

Beyond Soissons the line to Rheims ascends the valley of the 
Aisne to (72 M .) Ciry-Sermoise, where it enters that of its tributary 
the Vesle. — 76 M. Braisne (Croix- d'Or), a large village V2 ^« *o the 
N.W., contains, in the *Ovurch of St. Yved^ a most interesting 
example of early French Gothic (12th cent.), strongly resembling 
in style the cathedrals of Laon and Treves ; unfortunately the porch 
and part of the nave have been destroyed. Braisnes was formerly 
a seat of the Merovingian kings. — 80 M. Bazcches, and thence to 
(99'/.^ M.) Rheims (buffet), see p. 81. 

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84 Route 13, RHEIMS. Practical Notes. 

e. Yik Meavx and Epemay. 

107 M. Railway in 23/4-4>/4 lirs. (fares as in B. 12 a). The trains start from 
the Gare de lEst (PI. C, 24). 

From Paris to (88 M.) Epemay, see R. 15. — The railway to 
Rhelms trends to the left and crosses the Mame and the parallel 
canal. At (90 M.) Ay, or At (H6U des Voyagewrs; Lion d'Or), 
champagne of excellent quality Is produced, and we are now in the 
centre of the champagne vineyards, 92 M. Avenay, birthplace of 
Gaston Paris (1839-1903). The country becomes hilly and wooded. 
Beyond (97 M.) Germaine we thread a tunnel 2 M. long beneath 
the Mont Joli (900 ft.), the highest point of the so-called Montagne 
de Reims. 100 M. Rilly-la-Montagne is noted for its wines. Distant 
view of Rheims to the right. The train crosses the Vesle and the 
Aisne and Mame Canal. — 107 M. Rheims (buffet), see below. 

13. Eheims. 

HoteU. •Gr.-Hot. du Lion-d'Ob (PI. b; C, 4), opposite the cathedra], 
with firsi-rate cuisine and cellar, K. from 6, B. V/2, d^j. a la carte, D. 5, 
pens, from 14, omn. >/4 fr. ; *Grand-H5tel (PI. a$ C, 4), near the cathedral, 
H. from 3, B. 1V«, d^j. 31/2, D. 4V?, pens*, from 11, omn. «/4 fr. ; Ge.-H6t. 
CoNTiNiaffTAL (PI. ci B, 3), opposite the station, E. from 3, B. 1, d^j. or 
D. 3, pens, from 8, omn. 1/2 fr.; Ge.-H6t. du Hord (PL f; B, 3), Place 
Drouet-d'Erlon 75, R. from 3, B. 1, ddj. or D. 3, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr., 
good; Hot. du Commerce kt M^tropole (PI. d; C, 3, 4), Bue Bobert-de- 
Cou«y 2, R. from 3, B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 3V2, pens, from 10, omn. »/« ft"-; »» 
l'Europk (PI. e; B, 4), Kue Buirette 29, commercial, R. 2-3, B. 1, d^j. 
or D. 2V2, omn. >/« fr*; »» Metz (PI. g; B, 3), Rue de Talle^and 57, 
d^j. 2V2, I>. 3 fr.; DE LA Croix-d'Or, Rue Buirette 22. — Pensiona. 
Ccutella, Boul. de la Paix 19 bis, 20 B., pens. 8-15 fr. ; Maiton Jehofme- 
cTAre, Rue de Talleyrand 49, for ladies, 25 B., pens. 8-10 fr. 

Restaurants. Tctverne Flamande, Bue de TEtape 37, d^j. 2V4, 1>. 2V2 fr. ; 
RMtaurattt-H6ta de la Place Roy die, Bue du Cloitre 9, behind the cathedral, 
d^i. IV2, D. 2 fr. — Brasseries. De Strasbourg, Bue de TEtape 18, dej. 
2I^fr., well spoken of; Alsadenne, Pl»ce Drouet-d'Erlon 76; Bvffet, at the 
station, good. 

Caf6s. De la Banqtie, Place de rH6tel-de-Ville 4; du Palate, Rue de 
Vesle 6, opposite the theatre, with restaurant; de Paris, Bue Ghanzy 4. 

Oabs. Per drive, l-2pers. 1 fr., 3-4 pers. IV4 fr.; with two horses, 1-4 
pers. 1 fr. 40 c.; at night (10 p.m. to 6 a.m., in winter 7 a.m.) 1 fr. 40, 
1 fr. 75, 1 fr. 90 c. Per hour. 2 fr., 2 fr. 25, 2 fr. 80 c. (outside the octroi- 
limits 2'/2 A 3 fr.j; at night 2 fr. 80 c, 8fr., 3 fr. 25 c. Each box 20 c. 

Electric Tramways (comp. Plan). 1. From the Faubourg de Paris 
(PI. A, 5) to the Faubourg CirH (Cimetiere de TEst, comp. PI. E, 2), white 
pennon. — 2. From the Faubourg de Laon (PI. A, 1) to the Pont Huon 
(Dieu-Lumiere; PI. E, 7), red pennon. — 3. From Neu/cMtel (comp. 
PI. B, 1) via the Avenue de Laon and the Bues Chanzy and Gambetta lo 
Flichambault (PI. G, 6), white and blue pennon. — 4. From the Faubourg 
de Clairmarais (PI. A, 2) vi& the station and the Faubourg G^r^s to thu 
Rue de Cemay (PI. E, 3), white and red pennon. — 5. Circular route 
from the Pont Neuf (PI. C, 5) via the outer boulevards and the station 
back to the Pont Neuf, blue and red pennon. Fares, including *correspondanc6^ 
2nd cl. 10 0., Ist cl. 15 c. — The cars stop at the white-painted posts. 

Theatres. Grand- Thidtre (PI. C, 4), Bue de Vesle 1 (50 c- 4 fr.). — 
Cirque, Boul. de la R^publique. — Casino, Bue de TEtape 20, 


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Cail^ediraU RHEIMS. 13. Route, 85 

Post & Telegraph Offices, Bue C^r^s 30 (PI. C, 3), Bue' Gambetta 64 
(PI. D, 5), Avenue de Laon lu (PL B, 2). Bue de Vesle 151 (PI. B, 4). 

Baths. Bains Rimois, Bue de Vesle 147 ; Bains de SantS, Baitu Neptutif^ 
Place Drouet-d*£rlon 52 and 59. 

Banks. Banqm de France (PI. G, 3), Place de rHdtel-de-Ville 1; Cridit 
Lyonnais^ Bue Carnot 25 j Comptoir d"" Eecompte^ Bue Garnot 14^ Sociiti 
Oinirale, Bue Courmeaux 18. 

American Consal, William Bardel. British Vice-Consul, J. W. Lewthwaite. 

French Reformed Churchy Boul. Lundy 10; service at 10. 

Rheims, Fr. Reims, one of the most historically interesting cities 
of France, with 109,859 inhab., is situated on the right bank of the 
Vesle, in a plain bounded by vine-cUd hills. It is the seat of an 
archbishop, an important centre of the champagne industry, and car- 
ries on yery extensive manufactures of woollen and merino fahrics. 

RheimSj the ancient Durocortorum, the capital of the Remi, was an im- 
portant town even under the Bomans. Christianity was preached here 
towards the end of the 3rd cent. , the consul Jovinus being one of the 
earliest converts. After the Vandals and the Huns had ceasi^L to harass 
it Bheims became a religious centre of the first importance. On Christmas 
Day, 496, Clovis was baptised here by St. Bemigius, Bishop of Bheims -, 
Pope Stephen IV. here crowned Louis the Debonair in 81b: and Coun- 
cils were held in the city in 1049, 1119, 1131, and 1148. Since the be- 
ginning of the Capetian dynasty Bheims has been the place of coronation 
of the French kings (see p. 87), the only exceptions being Hugh Capet, 
who was crowned at Xoyon (p. 70), Henri IV, at Chartres, Xapoleon 1., 
at Paris, and Louis XVIII., Louis Philippe, and Xapoleon 111., who were 
not crowned at all. The most famous coronation was that of Charles VII., 
in 1429, which was brought about through the efforts of Joan of Arc, after 
she had driven the English from the walls. In the 16tii cent. Bheims, 
where there was an English seminary, was a great centre of tibe Boman 
Catholic activity against Queen Elizabeth and England. 

The washing and combing of the fine wools used in the manufacture 
of merinos, cashmeres, and the fine fiannel for which Bheims is celebrat- 
ed, are almost exclusively carried on in establishments owned by Eng- 
lish firms. Messrs. Holden & Son of Bradford, Yorkshire, have branches 
here and at Croix-Boubaix (p. 51). Connected with their Bheims eatab* 
lishment is a colony of about 100 English people. 

In the square in front of the station (PI. B, 3) is a bronze statue, 
by Guillaume, of Colbert (1619-83), the illustrious minister of 
Louis XIV., who was born at Rue C4th& 13, and in the Place Drouet- 
d'Erlon, which leads thence to the S.E., rises the tasteful Fontaine 
Subi (1906), with symbolical representations of the industries and 
rivers of the district. Beyond the Church of St, James (PI. B, 0, 4; 
12-18th cent.) we reach the Rue de Vesle, in which, to the left, 
are the Theatre and the Palais de Justice (PI. 0, 4). The short street 
between these leads direct to the cathedlral, in ftont of which rises 
a small equestrian statue of Joan of Arc, by Paul Dubois (1896). 

The ♦♦Cathedral of Notre -Dame (PI. C, 4), one of the most 
magnificent examples of the early -Gothic style, was founded in 
1211. The choir (finished in 1241), the transepts, part of the nave, 
and finally the superb *W, Fagade all date from the 13th century. 
The last, ^perhaps the most beautiful structure produced lu the 
Middle Ages' (Fergusson), is adorned with three exquisite recessed 
portals, containing about 530 statues, some of which, however, have 
Buffered from the ravages of time. 


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86 Route 13. RHEIMS. Caihedral. 

^Nothing can exceed the majesty of its deeply- recessed portals, the 
beauty of the rose-window that sarmounts them, or the elegance of the 
gallery that completes the facade and serves as a basement to the light 
and graceful towers that crown the composition' (Fergusson).' 

Though the tympana of the portals are, curiously enough, occupied 
by rose-windows in lieu of sculptures, the sides and overhead vaulting 
of the arches, as well as the gables above them, are most elaborately and 
beautifully adorned with statues and carving. Central Portal: at the 
sides and in the gable. Scenes from the life of the Virgin; in the vaulting, 
angels, ancestors of the Yir^n, confessors, martyrs, and holy virgins; on 
the lintel and jambs, the months and seasons; on the pier, Virgin and 
Child. — Left Portal : at the sides, Patron-saints of the cathedral, guardian 
angels, the arts and sciences; on the lintel, Oonversion of St. Paul; in 
the gable vaulting and adjacent arch. Scenes from the Passion, and the 
Invention of the Cross. — Eight Portal : at the sides. Patriarchs, apostles, 
angels, vices, and virtues; on the lintel, History of St. Paul; in the vault- 
ing and adjoining arch. End of the world (from the Apocalypse). 

The facade above the portals is pierced by three large windows, 
tbe magniflcent *Rose Window in the centre being nearly 40 ft in 
diameter. Sculpture also is lavishly employed. In niches in turrets 
at tbe spring of the towers are figures of Christ and St. John (left), 
and the Madonna and St. Paul (right). Then, at the same height, 
the other Apostles, David, Saul, History of David and Solomon, 
David and Goliath. Still higher, extending quite across the facade, 
is a row of 42 colossal statues in niches, representing the Baptism of 
Clovis, in the middle, with the Kings of France at the sides. The 
two fine W. *Towers (14th cent.), with their large windows and aerial 
turrets, are 267 ft. high. The spires were never executed. The 
belfry (59 ft) on the ridge of the chevet, which is decorated with 
eight colossal statues, was built about 1485 after a fire. 

The *iV^. Portal^ with statues of bishops of Rheims, etc., is 
also very fine. Beside it is another doorway, now walled up, the 
tympanum of which is filled with a masterpiece of the early-Gothic 
period, representing the Last Judgment, the finest figure in which 
is the 'Beau Dieu\ or Christ in an attitude of benediction. Adjacent 
is another pretty Doorway^ with a Romanesque tympanum, probably 
a relic of an earlier church. — The S. transept is adjoined by the 
bishop's palace, and has no portal. — Other noteworthy features 
of the exterior are the statues in niches crowning the buttresses, 
the fine flying buttresses themselves, and the open arcade just below 
the spring of the roof. 

Interior. The church, which is cruciform, is 466 ft. long, 99 ft. wide, 
and 126 ft. high. The transepts are short, and are divided into nave and 
aisles. This church has escaped restoration more successfully than most 
other cathedrals and has therefore preserved an air of striking simplicity 
and almost severity. The bright light admitted through tbe lower windows, 
which lost their stained glass in the I8th cent., contrasts disagreeably 
with the subdued light filterirg through the magnificent i3th cent. • Windows 
above. — Elaborate *Frameu;ork surrounds the portals, which arc embel* 
lished with 122 statues in niches. The statues at the principal portal 
represent the death of St. I^icasius, the flrit archbishop of Bheims. — In 
the nave and transepts is preserved some valuable tapestry, comprising 
the 'Tapisseries de Lenoncourt*, fourteen pieces representing scenes form 
♦he life of the Virgin, and named after the donor (1530)^ two 'Tapis 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

Archiepiac, Palace. BH£IMS. 13, RouU. 87 

series du Furl Rol Clovis", presented in 1573, but of a much greater anti-* 
quityi two 'Tapisseries de Pepersack' (comp. below), presented in 1640; 
and two elaborate pieces of the 19th cent., after Baphael's cartoons of St. 
Paul at Lystra and St. Paul on Mars Hill. In the S. transept is a 
painting hy Poussin (Shower of Manna), and in the adjoining chapel are 
an altar-piece by Pierre Jacques of Rheims (d. 1596) and a crucifix of the 15th 
century. — The Clocks with mechanical figures, in the N. transept, dates 
from the 16th century. 

The Choir embraces not only the crossing but also two bays of the 
nave, an extension demanded by the ceremonies at the coronation of the 
Kings of France (see p. 85). The possession of the Sainte Ampoule (see 
below) probably led to the choice of this cathedral as the coronation- 
place $ and on the Archbishops of Bheims, as Primates of the kingdom, 
devolved the honour of performing the ceremony. 

The •Treasury is open 9-12 and 2-5 (Sun. & holidays 1.30-2.30) j free. 
It contains some costly reliquaries and church-plate, a chalice and mon- 
strances of the 12-14th cent., vessels and ornaments used at the coronations 
of different kings, iodading the Vase of St. Ursula (16th cent.), the 
massive gold *Chalice of St. Remigias (llth cent.), an ivory liturgical 
comb (12th cent.), cruciQzes of the ll-12th cent., and the Sainte Ampoule. 
The last is the successor of the famous Ampulla Bemensis, which a dove 
is said to have brought from heaven filled with inexhaustible holy oil at 
the baptism of Glovis in 496. During the Revolution the sacred vessel 
was shattered, but a fragment was piously preserved, in which some of 
the oil was said still to remain. This was carefully placed in a new Sainte 
Ampoule, and used at the coronation of Charles X. in 1825. 

Tickets (1/2 fr. and fee) for the ascent (recommended) of ^e Outer and 
Inner Qalleriee and of the Towere may be obtained at the principal entrance. 

To the S. of the cathedral is the Arohiepisoopal Palace (PL C, 4 \ 
apply to the concierge), a large and handsome edifice dating from 
the 15-17th centuries. The Grande SalU or 8aUe du Tau (1498), the 
hall where the coronation banquet was giyen, has a flueQothic timber 
roof and chimney-piece, and contains five tapisseries de Pepersack* 
(see above), and modern portraits of fourteen kings crowned at Khelms. 
The Chapel (1230), in two stories, contains some good tapestry. 
The court commands a good -view of the S. side of the cathedral. 

The short street running to the N. from the E. end of the cath- 
edral leads us to the regularly-built Place Royale (PI. 0, 3), which 
is emhellished with a hronze statue of Louis XV.^ erected in 1818 
in the place of one destroyed at the Revolution. The original figures 
of Mild Government and Popular Happiness still adorn the base. — 
The broad Rue Colbert connects this square with the Place des 
Marches (PI. 0, 3), to the N., No. 9 in which is the Maiton de V Enfant- 
d'Or (Roy), with a 16th cent, timber facade. In the Rue de Tambour 
(Nos. 18 and 20), to the right, is the House of the Musicians, the 
most interesting of the many quaint old houses in Rheims (late 
13th cent.). The Maison Couvert (1522), at the comer of the Rue 
du Marc (No. 1), the Hdtel de La Salle (1545), Rue de I'Arbalete 4, 
in which the Abbtf de La Salle, founder of the Fr^res de la Doctrine 
Chrtftienne, was born in 1661, and a pretty 16th cent, building in 
the Rue Lingaet may be mentionei also. 

The H6t6l de Ville (PL C, 3), reached by the Rue Colbert, 
is a handsome edifice in the Renaissance style, begun in 1627 under 


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88 BouUia, RHEIMS. 

Louis XIII. (whose equestrian statue adorns the pediment), but 
finished only in 1888. It is surmounted hy a lofty campanile, and 
contains a Library of 120,000 vols., 200 incunabula, and 1800 MSS. 
(open daily, except Mon., 10-4, on Sun. 12-4), and the public Musies, 

The latter (open on Sun. and Thurs. 1-4, but accessible on other days 
also 10-12 & 1-4) include a collection of paintings, embracing a few 
German, Flemish, and Dutch paintings, a large triptych oi the school of 
Rheims (16th cent.), and some modern works; a museum illustrating tlie 
manufacture of champagne; collections of fayence and china; a Japanese 
collection; a collection of local caricatures ; a collection of scenery (Hoiles 
peintes^) used in mystery plays in the 15th cent. ; an antiquarian museum ; 
and an archaeological museum. On the first floor is a large Roman mosaic, 
discovered at Rheims, 36 ft. long by 26 ft. broad, representing the sports 
of the amphitheatre. 

The Galesib Hbnbt Vasitier, Boulevard Lundy 72 (PI. C, D, 2, 3), a 
fine collection of modern French paintings [Corot. Courbet, Millet, Rousseau^ 
Meiuonier, etc.), was bequeathed to the city in 1907. Adm. on application. 

The chief Roman monument at Rheims is the *Forte de Mars 
(PI. B, G, 2), a triple gateway or triumphal arch, reached from the 
H6tel de Ville by the Rue Henri-Quatre. It is referred to the 4th 
cent of our era. On the central archway are represented the Months 
(five destroyed); on the right archway, Romulus and Remus; and 
on the left archway, Leda and the Swan. The fluting of the eight 
Corinthian columns on the outer side should be noticed. 

The modern church of St. Thomeu (PI. B, 1, 2), built in the style of the 
14th cent. , and situated in the suburb of Laon , beyond the railway, 
contains the tomb and statue of Cardinal Gousset, Archbishop of Rheims 
(d. 1866). 

The most ancient ecclesiastical building in Rheims is the abbey 
church of *St. Bemi (PI. D, 5, 6), at the extreme S. end of the town 
(tramways Nos. 2 & 3, see p. 84), which, though freely altered in 
modern times, ^retains the outlines of a vast and noble basilica of 
the early part of the 11th cent., presenting considerable points of 
similarity to those of Burgundy' (Fergusson). The first church on this 
site was founded in the 6th cent, but this was practically rebuilt in 
the ll-12th cent, while the Flamboyant facade and S. end of the 
S. transept date from about 1506. The W. facade is in the Gothic 
style of the 12th cent., but both the towers are Romanesque; the N. 
tower was entirely rebuilt in the 19th cent, when the whole facade 
was restored. The nave also is Romanesque, but the choir is Gothic. 

The *Int£eiob produces an effect of great dignity. The aisles are pro- 
vided with galleries,' that in the N. aisle containing tapestries presented 
by Rob. de Lenoncourt, the donor of those in the cathedral (p. 86). 
Tlie choir, like the choir of the cathedral, is continued into the nave; 
part of it is surrounded by a tasteful marble screen of the time of 
Louis Xni. The choir-windows are still filled with magnificent stained glass 
of the ll-13th centuries. Off the apse open five chapels, with arcades sup- 
ported by graceful columns. Behind the high-altar is the *Tomb of St. Bemi 
or Remigiut, in the style of the Renaissance, but restored in 1847 for the 
third time. It presents the form of a kind of temple in coloured marbles, 
with a group in white marble representing the saint baptising Clovis, 
surrounded by white marble statues of the Twelve Peers of France (the 
Bishops of Rheims, Laon, Langres, Beauvais, Chalons, and Noyon, the 
Dukes of Burgundy, Normandy, and Aquitaine, and the Counts of Flanaen, 
Champagne, and Toulouse). These statues are the only relics of the tomb 



I»ONT*A-MOUSSON. U. Boute. 89 

of 1533-37, which was destroyed at the Revolution. — The 8. transept 
contains a Holy Sepulchre of 1532 and three high-reliefs of 1610, represent- 
ing the Baptisms of Christ, Constantine, and Clovis. — The treasury, shown 
daiiy until 4 or 6 p.m., contains an enamelled cross of the 18th cent, and 
30 Limoges enamels (apply to the sacristan, PJace St. Remi 6; 50 c.). 

The Hotel Dieu or Hospital^ adjoining the church, occupies the 
former abbey of St. Remi, part of the cloisters of which contain a 
Musie Lapidaire (ancient, mediaeval, and Renaissance sculptures, 
including the ^Cenotaph of Jovinus, p. 85), open on Sun. 1-4, on 
other days on application (concierge, Rue Simon 53). 

Beside the church of^t. Maurice (PI D, 5), rebuilt since 1867, 
is the Hdpital Qiniral, occupying a former college of the Jesuits 
(fine library-hall). 

The quaint Place St. Timoth^e, in the old quarter between St. Remi 
and the Boulevard Victor-Hugo, and the H6iel Firet de Mantlaurent (PI. D, 5 ; 
1540-16A7), Rue du Barb&tre 137, will appeal to lovers of architecture. 
Near the latter, at the junction of the Boulevard Victor-Hugo and Boule- 
vard Gerbert, is a colossal statue of Marshal Drouet-d'Erion (1765-1844), a 
native of Rheims. 

The visitor to Rheims should visit one of the vast Champagne Cellars 
(closed 12-2j, among the most important being those of the Maison Pommerpy 
to the S.E. of the town, in the Boul. Gerbert (PI. £, 6; apply at the office; 
gratuity to the guide). For an account of the process of champagne- 
making, see p. lOi. 

A local line runs from Rheims via (15Vs M.) Verzp (Hdt. Dupuis), skirt- 
ing the vineyards of the ^Montagne de Reims', and (23 M.) Ambotmay 
(junction for Epemay; p. 106), to (37 M.) ChdUnU'Wr-Mame (p. 103); 
another to (14 M.) Cormiey (Croix Blanche), on the line from Soissons to 
Guignicourt (p. 83): and a third to (15 M.) Bouletue^ where it forks for 
(27 M.) Fitmes (p. 81), on the N.W., and (31 M.) Dormaru (p. 102), on the S.W. 

From Rheims to Paris, see R. 13-, to Laon, p. 64; to Ch&lons, pp. 64, 65 
to Soisaons, p. 88; to Metz, R. 14. 

14. From Paris to Metz. 
a. Yik Gli&lons and Fronard. 

244 M. Railway (Gare de TEst: PI. C, 24) in 7-10V2 hrs. (fares 44 fr 
10, 29 fr. 90, 19 fr. 30 c; less via Verdun, see p. 93). 

From Paris to (214 M.) Frouardy see R. 15. The train returns 
in the direction of Paris for about 1/2 M. — 215 M. Pompey (3119 
inhab.), with iion-mines and extensive factories. 

A branch -railway runs hence via (IV4 M.) Ctutines^ formerly Condi^ to 
(131/2 M.) Nomeny (Hot. du Commerce), a small though ancient town on 
the Seille. 

We now enter the beautiHd valley of the Moselle^ and after cross- 
ing the river continue to follow its left bank almost the whole way 
to Metz. A canal also runs along the left bank. — 222 M. Dieulouard 
(H6t. du Commerce), commanded by a hill bearing a ruined castle. 
In tills neighbourhood was situated the Roman town of Scarpona, 
noted for a defeat of the Allemanni by Jovinus in 366. 

226 M. Pont«li-MoaB80n {Hdtel de France, Place Duroc; de la 
PoBte, Rue Victor-Hugo, near the station), an attractive town of 
13,548 inhab., situated on the Moselle. The triangular Ptoce Ihiroc, 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

90 Route 14. NOV^ANT. From Paris 

suTiounded with arcades, contains the Hdtel de VilU and a handsome 
House (No. 6) in the Renaissance style, decorated with sculptures. 

The late-Gothic church of 8L Laurent^ with a 17th cent, facade, 
has interesting vaulting and (in the 2nd chapel on the left) a curious 
16th cent, altar-piece. — The Rue du Pont leads from the end of 
the Place Duroc to the old town, crossing the Moselle hy a hridge 
huilt in the 16th century. To the left of the latter is the church of 
8t, Mariin (13-15th cent), with two handsome towers, containing a 
fine Holy Sepulchre in the right aisle, and a gallery of the 15th cent., ' 
now used as the organ-loft. — Farther to the N. is the church of 
8t. Mary (1705), with an ancient abhey, now a seminary. 

On a hill (1010 ft.) to the E. of the town is the litOe village of Houston, 
with the scanty rains of a CasUe. The tower of the Chapel of the castle 
i) sarmounted hy a statue of Joan of Arc, by the Duchesse d^Us^s. 

232 M. Pagrny-8tir-Mo«eUe (Buffet; H6tel-Caf6 de la Oare), is 
the frontier-station, with the French custom-house. Good wine is 
produced on the hills of the left bank. About 11/4 M. to the W. S.W. 
are the extensive ruins of the Chdteau de Preny^ built by the dukes 
of Lorraine and dismantled by Card. Richelieu. — Railway to 
Longuyon via Gonflans-Jamy, see p. 92. 

235 M. Hoy^ant (Buffet), the German frontier-station, with the 
German custom-house. German time is 55 min. in advance of Parisian 
time. Corny, connected with Nov^antby a suspension-bridge, was the 
German headquarters during the siege of Metz. — 28772 M. Ancy- 
iur-Moselle, At J ouy-aux^ Arches, which lies to the right, and at 
(239 M.) ArS'Sur-Moselle, with iron-works, are perceived the exten- 
sive remains of a Roman ^Aqueduct, 60 ft. in height and 1220 yds. 
in length, constructed by Drusus to bring water to Divodurum, 
the modem Metz. Oravelotte (omn.) lies A^/2 M. to the N.E., in the 
valley of the Mance. The train crosses the Moselle. To the right 
are the fort of St. Privat and the ch&teau of Frescati; to the left 
Mt. St. Quentin. 

244 M. Metz, see p. 99. 

b. Yii Ch&lons and Yerdtin. 

216 M. Eailwai in S^z-iiV* hrs. (fares 38 fr. 95, 26 fr. 25, 17 fr. 5 c). 
The trains start from the Gare de I'Est (PI. C, 2i). 

From Paris to (107^/2 M.) Chdlons-sur-Marne, see R. 15. Thence 
to rilS M.) 8t. Hilake-aU'TempU, the junction for Rheims, see 
p. d5. — 121 Y2 M. Cuperly, near the large military Camp de 
Chdlons (p. 65). 

At La Cheppe^ 21/2 M. to the E., is a large circular entrenchment, known 
as AUila's Camp, though really an ancient Roman camp or a Gallic oppi- 
dum. The Campi Catalauni, where Attil& was defeatetl by iEtius in 451 at 
the famous battle of Chalons (p. 104j, were therefore probably adjacent. 

140 M. Yalmy (Hotel), noted for the defeat of the Allies under 
the Duke of Brunswick by the French under Dumouriez and Keller- 
mann in 1792. This was the famous *Cannonade of Valmy', *wherein 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 


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to Metz. VERDUN. 14, BouU. 91 

the French SaTisculottes did not fly like poultry' (Carlyle). A pyr- 
amid on the battlefield, to the S. of the Tillage, contains the heart 
ofKellermann, DucdeValmy(1747-1820), and his stataewas added 
in 1892. Dnmouriez, having afterwards deserted to the enemy, is 
ignored. The train descends through the fertile valley of the Aisne. 

146 M. Ste. Menelibald (Hdtelde Metz ; St, Nicolaajj on the Aisne, 
a town with 4992 inhab., noted for its pork. Part of the WalU of 
the old town are preserved, and also a Churchy dating from the 13- 
14th centuries. No. 8 in the Avenue Victor-Dugo was the posting- 
station where Louis XVI. was recognized by *01d-Dragoon Drouef 
on his attempted flight from France in June, 1791 (comp. p. 93). — 
Railway from Hirson to Revlgny and Bar-le-Duc, see p. 66. 

A well-wooded and picturesque district is now traversed, includ- 
ing the ForeH ofArgonne^ well-known from the campaign of 1792. — 
154 M. ttcrmont-cn- Arponn« (Belle-Vue, pens. 7-81/2 f>*0> ^^^ * ^^^^ 
to the right (branch to Bar-le-Duc, see p. 103). — From(167V2 M.) 
AxibrevlUe an omnibus plies to Varennes-en-Argonne (p. 93). 

174 M. Verdun (comp. the Plan, p. 91). — Hotels. Tbois Hadbsb 
(PI. a; C, 3), Rue de rH3tel-de-ViUe 7, R. from 3, B. 1-1 Va, d<j. or D, SVa, 
pens. from. 91/2, omn. 1 fr.; CoQ Hardi (PI. b^ B, 2), R. from 8V2, B. 1, 
dtJj. 3, D. 3V«, pens, from 8, omn. 1 fr.. Petit St. Mabtin (PI. c; B, 2), Rue 
du St. Esprit 8 and 2; Cloche d'Or, Place St. Paul. — Caf^s in the Place 
Chevert, Rue de rH6tel-de-Ville, and Rue St. Paul. — BuflFet at the 
station. — Oab«. Per drive 1-2 pers. 60 c, 3 pers. 1 f r. 20 c, 4 pers. 1 fr. 
60c.i per hr., IV2, 2, 2V2 fr.j doable fare after midnight. — Tramway 
from the station, 20 c. 

Verdun^ a flrst-class fortress and an episcopal see with 21,706 
iiihab., is situated on the Meuse, which divides at this point into 
several branches. The narrow, winding streets of the upper town 
are most picturesque. 

Verdan, the Roman Virodunttm^ holds an important place in early Europ- 
ean history, for hy the Treaty of Verdun in 843 the possessions of Charle- 
magne were divided among his three grandsons, Lothaire, Louis the Ger- 
man, and Charles the Bald (p. xxiv), and the French and German members 
of the empire were never again united. The town was early the seat of 
a bishop, and remained a free imperial town until 1552, when it was tak- 
en by the French, although it was not formally united to France until 
the Peace of Westphalia in 1648, hy which Austria gave up the three fam- 
ous bishoprics of Verdun , Toul , and Metz. Verdun was bombarded by 
the Prussians in 1792, and, having surrendered after a few hours, the in- 
habitants accorded an amicable reception to the conquerors, to whom a 
party of young girls made an offering of the bonbons Cdrag^es^) for which 
Verdun is noted. The Revolutionists recovered the town after the battle 
of Valmy, and sent three of these innocent maidens to the scaffold. The 
town was again hombarded by the Germans in 1870, and taken after a gal- 
lant resistance of three weeks. 

The Avenue de la Gare leads straight to the town through the 
Porte St. Paul, beyond which are the Palais de Justice (PL B, 1) 
and the College (PI. B, 2). The first street diverging to the left 
leads to the Porte Chaussie (PI. C, 2), a gateway (partly 15th cent.) 
with two crenelated towers, now used as a military prison. Beyond 
it is a bridge across the Mouse. — The Rue Mazel,^o which we 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

92 BouU 14. CONFLANS-JARNY. From ParU 

return, leads to another bridge across the main channel of the river. 
On the left hank is the Place Chevert (PI. B, C, 3), embellished in 
1865 with a bronze statue, by Lemaire, of General Chevert (1696- 
1769), a native of the town, distinguished for his capture and defence 
of Prague (1741-42). -— The Theatre (Pi. B^ 3), on the Quai de la 
Gom^die, to the right before the bridge, overlooks the attractive 
Promenade de la Digue. — In the court of the H6tel de Ville (PI. 
0, 3 ; 1623) are four cannons presented to the town by the French 
Government in memory of its gaUant resistance in 1870. The left 
wing contains the Musie (free on Sun. 2-4 ; 50 c. on Thurs.). — 
The Public Library (PI. B, 3; open Thurs. & Sun. 2-4), near the 
Canal des Augustins, contains 52,000 vols, and valuable MSS. 

The Cathedral of Notre Dame (PI. B, 2, 3), in the upper part of 
the town, dates from the ll-12th cent., but has been much altered 
in the 14th and 17th, especially in the interior. The aisles are now 
divided from the nave by semicircular arches. The space beneath 
the organ in the W. apse is occupied by a fine Chapel. The high-altar 
is placed beneath a gilded canopy, resting on marble columns. In 
the S. transept are a relief dating from. 1555 and a marble statue 
of Notre Dame de Verdun. 

The Bishop's Palace and the Orand Siminaire (PI. A, B, 3) 
adjoin the cathedral. From the Place de la Roche (PI. A, 3) a good 
view is obtained, to the W., of the pastoral valley of the Meuse. 
Beyond the Place rises the Citadel (PI. A, 2, 3; no adm.). 

Verdun is also a station on the railway from Sedan to Lirouville (Kancy) 
see p. 97). — To Bar-U-Due, see p. 108. 

The railway to Metz crosses the Meuse, ascends an incline 
(C6te8 de Meuse) on the other bank (view to the right), passes 
through a tunnel ^/i M. long, and beyond the plateau of the 
Woevre enters the valley of the Moselle. 

187V2 M. Etain (H6t. de la Sirhne), on the Ome (3082 inhab.), 
has an interesting church of the 13th and 15th cent., in which is a 
Madonna attributed to Ligier Richier (pp. 97, 107> 

199 M. Conflans- Jamy (Buffet-Hdtel), near the confluence of 
the Ome and Yron. 

Conflans-Jamy is the junction of the railway from Longuyon to Pagny- 
sur-MoselU (see p. 90). The first station to the 8. is (6V« HO Mars-la-Tour 
(see p. 98). — A narrow-gauM railway runs from Conflans- J amy to (19 M.j 
Audun'le*Roman (p. 99) vi& (h/t M.) VaUerojtMoineviHe (junction for Homi- 
couri'Joeuf) and (8 H.) Briey (H6t. de la Croix*Bkmehe; de la Gare), an 
industrial town with 2630 inhabitanU. 

204 M. Batilly, with the French custom-house. The train then 
crosses the battlefield of Oravelotte, 

208 M. Amanvillers (buffet; hotel opposite), the first German 
station, with the German custom-house. German time is 55 min. 
in advance of Parisian time. Gravelotte lies 4V2M. to the S., StPrivat 
(omnibus) IV4 M. to the N., and Ste. Marie-aux-Chftnes 2V2 M, to 
the N.W. 


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to Met%. RETHEL. 14, BouU. 93 

We change carriages at AmanTillers, and descend the yalley of 
Monvaux. On the left are the forts of Plapperille and St.Qaentin. — 
213 M. MoulinS'US'Mets. The line to ThionyiUe (p. 99) is seen to 
the left The train crosses the Moselle, joins the railway fromFrouard 
(R. 14a), and then the line from Saarhrilcken and Strasshnrg. 

216 M. Mets, see p. 99. 

e. Vifc Bheims and Verdnn. 

(RheimS' Chdlons.) 

220 M. in 9V4-11V* h". , 222Va M. in 9«/4-12V« hrs. , or 230 M. in IOV2- 
12Vs hrs. , according as Bheims is reached Ti& La Fert^-Hilon (Ligne de 
I'Est), via Soissons (Ligne da Nord), or via Epernay (Ligne de TEst). Fares 
about 42 fr., 28 fr. 50, 18 fr. 50 c. 

From Paris to (97-107 M.) Rhehns, see R. 12. Thence to (122 M. 
from Paris via La Ferttf-Milon; 2^2 or 10 M. more hy the other 
routes) 8t. Hilaire-au- Temple, where we join the railway to Metz 
via Ghalons and Verdun (R. 14h), see pp. 64, 65. 

d. Vifc Bheims and H^zieres-Charleville. 
(Oivet, Namur, Luxembourg.) 

269 M. in 9Y4-14V4 hrs. , 261Va M. in 9»/4-15V« hrs. , or 269 M. in IOV4- 
I6V2 IuVm according as Bheims is reached vi& La Fert^*Milon, via Soissons, 
or vi& Epernay. Fares 45 fr. 70, 80 fr. 86, 20 fr. 15 c. 

From Paris t() (97-107 M.) Rheims, see R. 12. — IO2V2 M. 
(from Paris via La Fert^-Milon , 2^2 and 10 M. more hy the other 
routes) WHry-Ut-Reims. — 1071/2 M. Bazaneourt. 

Fbom Bazamcodbt to Apbsmont, 481/x H., railway in 2V«-3V2 l^rs* (fares 
8 fr. 76, 6 fr. 90, 8 fr. 86 c). The line at first follows the valley of the 
Suippe, with its active woollen industry. — 33 M. GhalUrange (p. 66). 
39 M. OrandprS has a church of the 16th century. — 48V3 M. Apremont is 
an iron- working village. Ahout 4VsM. to the S.W. is the little town of 
Varennes-en-Arffonne, where Louis XVL was arrested in 1791 on his 
attempted flight from France; and V/2 M. farther en is AubrivilU (p. 90; 
omnibus), on the line from Gb&lons to Verdon. 

Beyond (11 5 72^0 Tagnon the train passes through a tunnel and 
enters the hasin of the Aisne, where the scenery hecomes more varied. 

I2OV2 M. Bethel (H6t, de France j du Commerce), an industrial 
town with 5708 inhah., is partly situated on a hill to the right of the 
Aisne and of the Canal dea Ardennes, which connects the Aisne 
and the Meuse. The church of 8U Nicholas is in reality formed of two 
churches, different hoth in size and style, placed end to end. The 
oldest part, dating from the 13th cent.,heIonged originally to a priory. 
The H6tel Dieu and several other edifices in the town date from the 
17th century. — To Gulgnicourt and Soissons, see p. 83. 

About 2Y2 M. to the V. is the village of Sorbon, birthplace of Robert 
de Sorbon (1201-74), founder of the Sorhonne at Paris { and 2V2 M. to the 
W. is Barby, birthplace of Jean Oerson (1363-1429), supposed by some to be 
the author of the *De Imitatione\ 

127 M. Amagne-Lucquy (buffet-h6tel), with a large sugar factory, 

18 also a station on the lino from Hirson to Revjgny (see p. 66), 

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94 Route 1 4. MfiZI^RES-CHARLEVILLE. From Path 

Beyond (131 ^2 ^0 Saulces-MoncUn the railway enters the wooded 
and motrntainons district of the Ardennes, — 141^/2 M. PoiZ'Terron 
(H6t. de la Gare). 

A narrow-gauge line runs bence vii (12V3 M.) Vendr9S49 fjunotion for 
Baucourt, p. 97) to (25 M.) ChdfUlon-iurBar (p. 66). 

To the right of the line, a little beyond (148 M.) La FranchevilU, 
rises the large powder factory of St. Ponce. At (150^2 ^0 Mohon 
are situated the workshops of the railway. We cross the Meuse twice, 
the river making a wide bend here to the left. 

161 Va M. M^Bi^res-CharleviUe (*Buffet-H6tel). The station 
is at Gharleville; M^zieres lies about 8/4 M. to the left. 

Cbarleyilla. ^ Hotels. Lion o'Abgkkt (PI. a; A, 2), Roe Thiers 20, 
D. 3V2 fr.; DD CoMEEBCB (PI. bj B, 2), Eue de TEgHse 1; r>v Nord (PI. c; 
B, 8), opposite the station, R. 3-5, D. 8 fr.; db Xbveks (PI. d; A, 1), 
XoTKB Damb, Place de Kevers 20 and 15; Iekminus. 

Sleotric Tramways. 1. From Mohon (see Pi. A, 5) to Le Moulinet (see 
PI. A, 1), ▼!& tbe station. 2. From the Faufourg de Fierre (PI. A, 5) to 
the Faubourg de Flcmdre (PI. A, IX 

Post ft Telegraph Office (PI. B, 2), Rue Victor-Cousin. 

CharlevUUy with 20,702 inhab., derives its name from Charles 
of Gonzaga, Duke of Nevers and Mantua and Governor of Champagne, 
who founded the town in 1606. The chief industries are nail-making 
type-founding, and the manufacture of other small hardware goods. 
The road leading from the station is met at the bridge connecting 
the two towns by a fine boulevard, which extends to the Place Ducale 
(PI. A,B, 1, 2), in the centre of Charleville, a square bordered by 
arcades. The rest of the town is uninteresting. On the N. side rises 
Mont Olympe (670 ft.), a height at one time fortified, but now 
private property. 

Mizi^res {Hdtel du Palais-Royal^ PJ. e. A, 5), the chief town 
of the department of the Ardennes, with 9393 inhab., is situated on 
a peninsula formed by the Meuse, and until recently was strongly 

In 1521 the Chevalier Bayard, with a garrison of 2000 men, successfully 
defended M^zi^res for 28 days against an Imperial army of 35,000. In 1815, 
after a siege of six weeks, the town was compelled to capitulate to the 
Germans, though not before the general pacification. In Jan. 1871 M^ziferes 
surrendered after a severe bombardment. 

To the right, near the bridge which connects the two towns, is a 
War Monument of 1870-71. The only noteworthy building in Me'- 
zi^res is the Parish Church (PI. A, 5), a handsome Gothic edifice of 
1499-1556, with a conspicuous Renaissance tower. The portal on the 
S. side is very richly ornamented. Within this church Charles IX. 
was married to Elizabeth of Austria in 1570. In the newer part of 
the town is a Statue of Bayard (PI. 5, A, 4; see above), by Croisy 

Railways to Hirson^ Aulnoye^ ValeneienneSj Lille, and Calais, see pp. 67- 
65; to Givet and Namur, see pp. 78-81. 

Trains for Sedan, Thionville, and Metz, on leaving Mtfzi^res- 

Charleville, return in the direction of Rheims as fat, as beyond the 

Digitized by V^OOk 


zed by Google 


zed by Google 

toMet%, SEDAN. 14, Route. 96 

station of Mohon (p. 94). Here they diverge to the left into the 
valley of the Meuse, which is crossed at (154 M.) Lumes, From 
(I59V2 M.) Vrigne-Meuse a tramway runs to (3 M.) Vrigne-aux- 
BoiSy where large quantities of hardware are produced. — 161 1/2 M. 
Donchery is the point where the German forces crossed the Mouse, 
at the battle of Sedan, in order to cut off the retreat of the French 
army to M^ziftres. The railway crosses the river, and immediately 
to the right is seen the Chateau de BelUvue^ where Napoleon III. 
surrendered his sword, and where the capitulation of Sedan was 
signed on Sept. 2nd, 1870. The captured army were detained as 
prisoners for three days on the Peninsula of Iges, formed here hy 
the Meuse. The bombardment of Sedan was begun by a battery 
posted on the heights of Frenois^ to the right. The German army 
took up its position in that direction and stiU farther to the E., while 
the French posted themselves on the heights immediately surround- 
ing Sedan. By the end of the day the French position had been 
turned by the Germans, who had made themselves masters of the 
hills commanding it on the N. 

164 M. Sedan. — Hotels. De la Croix d'Ob, Place Turenne, R. 
from 3, B. IV4, d^j. 3, D. 3V2, omn. V2 fr* de l'Eueope, Rue Gambetta 
27, R. from 3, B. 1V4, d^j. 3, D. SVa, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr. 5 de Fbasce, 
Place de la Halle 2, dej. or D. 3 fr.^ de la Poste, Place Verte 2. — 
Buffet at the station. 

Sedan, a town with 19,599 inhab., formerly strongly forti- 
fied, is famous for the battle and capitulation of Sept. 1st and 
2nd, 1870 (see p. 96). Of no great antiquity, the town at one 
time belonged to the Dukes of Bouillon (p. 97), and the revolt of one 
of these noblemen in 1591 led to the siege and capture of Sedan by 
Henri IV. Sedan carries on a prosperous manufacture of fine cloth. 
Within recent years the fortifications have been removed, and their 
place largely taken by handsome new suburbs. 

From the station the Avenue Philippoteaux, crossing the Meuse 
and traversing a new suburb, leads to the Place d' Alsace-Lorraine, 
at the S. extremity of the town, in which are situated the War 
Monument for 1870, the Colllge Turenne, and the Fondation Crussy, 
embracing an asylum and a small Mus^e (adm. on application). 
Thence the Avenue du College leads to the Place d'Armes, in which 
rises the Church of St, Charles, Beyond the church is the Donjon, 
of the 15th cent., the only relic of the ancient Castle, The Place 
Turenne, farther on, is embellished with a bronze statue of Marshal 
Turenne, erected in 1823. The marshal (1611-75), born at Sedan, 
was the son of Henri de La Tour-d'Auvergne, Viscount of Sedan and 
Duke of Bouillon, an ambitious noble who took part in many plots 
against Cardinal Richelieu , and was finally forced to purchase his 
life by yielding up to Louis XIII. the barony of Sedan. — Crossing 
the Meuse, we again enter a new quarter, beyond which are the via- 
duct and suburb of Torc'y. From Torcy the Rue Wadelin^ourt leads 
back to the station. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

96 BouUU, SEDAN. From Parii 

The beet point from which to visit the hattlefleld of Sedan is the 
village of Bazeilles, about 3 M. to the S.E. (cab, 21/2-3 fr. ; tramway 
from the Place Tnrenne, 10 or 20 c; station, see p. 97). The road 
leads to the S. from the Place Nassau, at the end of the Avenue 

The Battle of Bedan« fought Sept. lat, 1870, raged most fiereely in the 
neighbourhood of Bazeilles. Marshal Macllahon, acting under orders from 
Paris dictated by political rather than military considerations, and endeav- 
ouring to march from the Gamp de Chalons (p. 65) to the relief of Ba- 
Kaine in Metz vii Montm^dy (p. 97), had been forced back upon Sedan 
by the Tictorious armies of the Crown Prince of Prussia and the Crown 
Prince of Saxony. The French crossed the Meuse at Mouzon (p. 97) and 
took up a position on the heights of La MoneelU, Daigny^ and Oivonne 
(p. 97), on the right bank of the Oivonne, a small tributary of the Meuse, 
flowing to the K. of Bazeilles, while their line was continued to 
the w., yi& Illp and Floing^ until it rested upon the Meuse near the 
peninsula of Iges (p. 95). The battle began at daybreak, and from 4.90 
to 10 a.m. Bazeilles and La Moncelle were the chief points of attack. 
Step by step the fighting was forced farther to the N., to Daigny and 01- 
vonne, until finally, about 2 p.m., the right wing of the Saxons, who 
attacked from the £., and the left wing of the Prussians, who attacked 
from the W., effected a junction at Illy, and the ring of steel was closed 
round the French. Early in the afternoon some of the French troops 
began to retire in disorder upon the town, and not all the brilliant gal- 
lantry of the cavalry, who dashed themselves against the solid German 
lines in one desperate charge after another, could turn the tide of battle. 
When a German battery opened fire upon the town from the heights of 
Fr^nois (p. 95) there was nothing for it but surrender. Napoleon III., 
who was at Sedan, though not in command, delivered his sword to the 
King of Prussia; and 83,000 men (including 1 marshal, 89 generals, and 
3230 other officers), with wQO horses, 419 cannons, and an enormous quantity 
of stores fell into the hands of the victors. The Germans are said to have 
lost 9000 men and the French 17,000. The victory was mainly due to the 
superior strategy of the German commanders. The French were completely 
out-manoeuvred by the Germans, who had managed to concentrate at 
Sedan a tried force of 240,000 men, and to coop up there the French army 
of 127,000 men, who had no time to recover from the disorganization of 
thdr previous retreat. The German attack was aided by Uie double 
change of command in the French camp. MacMahon was wounded early 
in the day, and was succeeded by Ducrot, who was in turn replaced by 
De Wimpffen. 

Near the beginning of the village of Bazeilles, to the left of the 
road, is the small tavern A laDemihre Cartouche, The name recalls 
the fact that this was the last French position in the village, 
desperately defended by the marines under Martin des Pailldres 
against Yon der Tann's Bavarians. The inn , which was the only 
house in the whole village not burned down , now contains a small 
Museum of relics of the battle (fee), and one of the rooms on the 
first floor is still preserved in the same state as is depicted in A. 
de Neu villous painting of *The Last Cartridge^ the scene of which 
is laid in the house which has borrowed its name. 

The street to the right of the road leads into the village, passing 
near the cemetery, rendered conspicuous by its Ossuaire, containing 
the bones of 2035 French and German sol(liers removed from their 
temporary graves on the battlefield. Visitors obtain admission on 
applying at the nearest tavern , the keeper of which is the sexton. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

to Metz. ST. MIHIEL. 14. Route. 97 

The small monument in front of the Ossuaire commemorates 500 
Bavarians who fell in the battle. — The French soldiers and vil- 
lagers who were killed in the defence of the place are commemorated 
by a truncated Pyramid in the village. — Farther down, near the 
Mouse, is the railway-station of Bazeilles (see below). 

Fboh Sedan to Bouillon, 12 M., diligence (2 fr.) thrice daily. The 
road ascends to the X.E. by the Fond de Oiwnne^ and crosses part of the 
battlefield of 1870 (p. 96). 3 H. Oivonne, on the streamlet of th^ same 
name, was the centre of the French position. At (5 M.) La CJiapelle is the 
French custom-house; and beyond it we enter the Forest of Ardennes. After 
3 M. more we enter Belgium. — 12 H. Bouillon (Hdtel de la Paste, good ; 
des Ardennes)^ a little town dominated by a Castle in which Godfrey de 
Bouillon (1058-1100) was born. Here Kapoleon III. spent the night of 
8rd4th Sept., 1870, in the Hotel de la Poste. The town is prettily situated 
on a peninsula formed by the Semoy, an affluent of the Meuse. The valley 
as far as (2B-30 H.) Montherm^ may be explored on foot in one day (comp. 
p. 79). Steam-tramway from Bouillon to Paliseul, (10 M. ; 1 fr. 15, 80 c). 
Boad from Hontherm^ to the most attractive parts of the valley, see p. 79. 

Fbom Sedan to LSbouville, 91 M. (to Nancy, 127 M.), railway in 
4V4-71/4 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 15, 13 fr. 66, 9 fr. 95 c). — At (2V2 M.) Pont- 
Mauffis the line diverges to the left from that to Metz and begins to 
ascend the attractive valley of the Meuse. 8V« M. Remilly. Branch-line to 
Baucourt and thence to Vendresse (p. 94). — 9 M. Mouzon^ the ancient 
Mosomagus (^Field of the Meuse**), a little town which enjoyed some im- 
portance down to 1660, contains a ciiurch of the 13-15th cent, and the remains 
of an abbev founded in the 10th century. — ISVz M. Litanne-Beaumont. At 
Beaumont^ V/i H. to the S.W., 3000 men under General de Failly guarded 
the passage of the Meuse, but were defeated and captured by the Saxon 
troops on Aug. 30th, 1870. — 24 M. Stenap^ a small town in the Pays Messin 
in Lorraine, was at one time strongly fortified. At 02 M.) Dun-Doulcon 
the valley contracts. 

67 M. Verdun, see p. 91. Our line leaves the railway to Meta on the 
left and that to Chalons and Bheims on the right, and runs to the S.W. 

80 M. St. Mihiel (H6M du Cygne; des Bons-En/anU; Modems)^ with 
9661 inhab., on the Meuse, grew up round an ancient Abbey of 8t. Miehaely 
now occupied by the municipal offices. Both the abbey and the Church of 
St. Michael date from the 17th century. The church contains a fine statue 
of the Madonna, by Ligier Bichier (p. 107; in the choir); a child beside 
two skulls, perhaps by Jean Bichier (in the 1st chapel on the right); 
and good choir-stalls, organ-case, and modern stained glass. The Church 
of St. BU^phen^ in the old town, contains a group of life-sized statues re- 
presenting the * Entombment,, considered the masterpiece of Ligier Bichier. 
Various quaint old houses may be seen in this part of the town. 

91 M. Lirouville^ on the line from Paris to Nancy, is 3V2 M. from 
Commercy (p. 108). 

Beyond Sedan the railway continues to skirt the Meuse for some 
distance. 166 1/2 M. Pont-Maugis (see above). — Crossing the Meuse, 
the line now ascends the valley of the Chiers. 167 V2 M. Bazeilles 
(p. 96). •— I77V2 M. Carignan, a town with 2134 inhab., was at 
one time fortified. Formerly named Yvois, it changed its name 
when Louis XIV. made it a duchy in favour of £ugene Maurice of 
Soissons, son of the prince of Oarignan. A branch-line runs hence 
to (4V2 M.) Mesaempre, with metal-works. — I9OV2 M. Chauvency. 
In the distance, to the right, is the citadel of Montm^dy, beneath 
which the train passes by means of a tunnel, Y2 ^* long. 

196 M. Hontm^dy (H6t. de la Croix-d'Or; de la GareJ, a fortress 
of the second class, with 2441 inhab., is picturesquely situated on the 

Basdbkss^s Northern France. 6th Edit. 7 - 

98 Route 14, LONGUYON. From Paris 

Chiers. The rocky and isolated hill (Mons Medius) from which the 
name is derived is occupied hy the citadel. Montm^dy was taken by 
Louis XIV. in 1667 and hy the Germans in 1870. 

The *Ohureh of Avioth, 41/2 M. to the V., dating from the IMith cent., 
is one of the most interesting in this district. It has two heatitifally 
decorated portals and contains good stained glass of the iSth cent, and 
admirable sculptures. Adjoining is a beautiful little hexagonal chapel of 
the end of the 14th cent,, known as the B9cevretse. 

A branch-railway runs from Hontm^dy. vi& Ecouviez (frontier-station, 
with the custom-house), and LamorUau (with the Belgian custom-house), 
to (I2V2 M.) the little Belgian town of VirUm. — A 'courrier' (railway pro- 
jected) plies from Montmedy to (14 H.) Dcmvillert^ birthplace of Bastien- 
Lepage (1848-84), who is commemorated by a statue (by Bodin). 

198y2 M. VelosneS'Torgny, — Several bridges and two tunnels. — 
207 V2 M. Longuyon (Buffet- Httel; H6U de Lorraine; Marquet)^ 
with 3243 inhab., pleasantly situated at the confluence of the Chiers 
and the Crwsnc, is a centre of the hardware trade. 

From Longuyon to Luxemboubo, 29V4H., railway in 2y8-3V2hrs. [From 
Paris to Luxembourg by this routej234 M., express in 674-81/4 hrs. (fares 
40 fr. 70, 27 fr. 65, 18 fr. 10 c.).] — We leave the line to Thionville and 
Metz on the right, and ascend the upper valley of the Chiers, traversing 
a picturesque region, studded with iron mines and foundries. 6^/2 M. 
Cons-la-Orandville^ with a handsome Renaissance chateau (right) \ 8 M. Itehon. 

9 M. Longwy (BufeUffdtel, good: lermintu; de la Faix; de la Croix 
d^Or), on the Chiers, a town with 9911 inhab., and a fortress of the second 
class, has belonged to France since 1678. It was taken by the Prussians 
in 1792 and 1815 and by the Germans in 1871. It consists of two distinct 
parts, Longtof/Sa* and Longwy-Haut^ united by a tramway that goes on 
to Mont St. Martin (see below). In the lower town are several important 
iron-works and a porcelain manufactory. The picturesque upper town lies 
nearly 11/4 M. from the station by the road (tramway, see M)Ove), though 
there are short-cuts for pedestrians. It commands a fine view. — The 
branch-line from Longwy to (11 M.) Villerupt and (23V2 M.) Audun-le-Roman 
(p. 99) is chiefly of industrial importance. 

11 M. Mont-SU Martin (hotel), the last French station (but custom-house 
at Longwy), has a handsome Romanesque church. Branch-line vi^ (3V« ^0 
Athua (frontier-station) to (13 M.) Arlon^ see Baedeker's Belgium d: Holland. 
— The Luxembourg custom-house is at (14 M.) Rodange (bu£fet). Luxembourg 
railway- time is 65 min. in advance of French railway-time. — 16 M. Pitange; 
branch-line to JSttetbrUck and (SSVa M.) DieHrch (see Baedeker's Belgium d 
Holland). 181/2 M. Bascharge; 211/3 M. Dippach; 25 M. Lendelange. 

291/4 M. Luxembourg (Hdt. Clesse, Staar, near the station; Brasseur, 
Continental, de Cologne, etc., in the town), the capital of the grand-duchy 
of Luxembourg. For details and for the railways from Luxembourg to 
Spa, to Treves, and to Thionville, see Baedeker's Belgium and HolUmd 
and Baedeker^s Rhine. 

Fbom Longdton to Nanot (and Metz. vi& Conflaas - Jarny or Pagny- 
sur-Moselle), 691/2 M., railway in 83/4-41/4 hrs. (fares 15 fr. 86, 11 fr. M), 
8 fr. 76 c). This line forms part or the route traversed by the throa|h 
trains from Calais to Nancy, Strassburg, etc. (B. 10). It runs to the 8.E. 
through a monotonous district. — 14 M. Baroncouri (junction for Audun- 
le-Roman, see p. 99). -^ 26 M. Cmflans-Jamy (buffet) is also a station on 
the line from Verdun to Metz (p. 92). — At (311/2 M.) Mars-la-Tour (H6t. 
du Commerce) several sanguinary cavalry-engagements took place during 
the battle of Beeonville, on Aug. 16th, 1870. A large Monument^ paased 
before we reach the station, commemorates the French who fell, and is 
surrounded with vaults containing the bones of 10,000 soldiers. — Fronoi 
r4 M.) Onville a branch-line runs to (61/2 M.) Thiaueourt^ situated to the 
S.W. in the pretty valley of the Rupt de Mad, which the main line also 

toMetz. THIONVILLE. 14. Route, 99 

traverses towards the E. ^ At (46 M.) Pagny-sur-MoteiU fp. 90) our line 
unites with that from Mete to Fronard and l^ancy (see pp. 90, 89, and 109). 

Beyond Longuyon the line to Thionyille and Metz threads a 
tunnel and enters the valley of the Crutne, which it continnes to 
ascend, crossing the stream seyeral times. Beyond (213 M.) Pi'erre- 
pont^ picturesquely situated, a tuntiel (V2 M.) is trayersed. — We 
quit the yaUey hy another tunnel. 

223 M. Audun-le-Roman is the frontier-station, with the French 
custom-house. Branch-Unesto Baroncourt (see p. 98), to Conflans- 
Jamy (p. 92), and to Longwy (p. 98). — The German custom- 
house is at (228 M.) Fentsch (Ft, Fontoy\ where the time is 
56 min. in adyance of French railway-time. Beyond another tunnel 
we begin to descend the valley Of the Fentsoh. 233 M. Hayingen 
(Fr. Hayange\ with important iron-works. 

238 M. Thionville, or Diedenhofen(H6t, Terminus; Mehn; de la 
Po8te)y a fortified town on the MoselLe, with 1 1,930 inhah., was 
captured in 1643 by the Prince of Cond^ and in 1870 by the Germans. 

From Thionville to Luxembourg (p. 98), see Btudektrs Belgium and 
Holland or Baedeker** Rhine; to Trhte* (43Vv H.), SaarbrUckeUy Saargemiind^ 
etc., see BaedeTcer'^t Rhine. 

The Metz line now ascends the valley of the Moselle. 241 1/2 M. 
Ueckingen (Fr. Uckangey^ 242 M. Reichersherg (Fr. Richenioni)\ 
245 V2 M. Hagendingen (Fr. Hagondange), the centre of the iron- 
founding carried on in the valley of the Orn€, which is traversed by a 
short goods-line; 248 V2M. Maizieres; 254 M. Devant-les-Ponts^ near 
Fort Moselle. The line describes a curve to the W. and crosses the 
Moselle. To the right diverges the line to Verdun and Paris, then 
the lines to Frouard and Paris and. to Saarbriicken and Strassburg. 

259 M. UeiE(Grand'H6tel; Qrand-HtUl de Metz ; Orand-Hdtel 
Royal ; Angleterre, etc.). For details of Metz and the Battlefields of 
1S70, see Baedeker's Rhine. 

15. From Paris to Nancy (Strassburg). 

219 M. Railway (Gare de TEst; PL C, 24) in iVi-lOVthrs. (fares 89 fr. 65, 
26 fr. 80, 17 fr. 60 c.). — From Paris to Strassburg, 312 M., Chemin de 
Fer d' Alsace -Lorraine beyond Avricourt (p. 341), in V/i-ii hrs. (fares 
56 fr. 55, 3t fr. 90, 24 fr. 60 c). The German second-class carriages are 
as good as the French first-class carriages. 

Besides the ordinary express-trains an Oriental Express leaves Paris 
every evening at 7.20, reaching l^ancy in 5 hrs. and Strassburg in T^/a hrs. 
This train , which is made up of a limited number of sleeping-carriages, 
saloons, and dining-carriages, takes passengers for all intermediate stop- 
ping-places, if there is room. Supplement to Chalons-sur-Marne 5 fr. 35 c, 
to Nancy 11 fr., to Avricourt 12 fr. 80 c, and to Strassburg 15 fr. 10 c, all 
in addition to the ordinary 1st cl. fares. Places may be booked In advance 
at the office of the Gompagnie des Wagons-lits, Boulevard des Gapucinesd, 
in Paris, and at 122 Pall Mall, London. — Dinner 6 fr., wine extra. 

Another line has been opened to Vitry-le-Frangois (p. 106), via Coutom- 
miers (p. 808), but though IV* M. shorter it is served by slower trains 
(6S/4-7V4 hrs. instead of S-5V2 hrs.). 



100 BouU15. , LAGNY. From Paris 

I. From Paris to Ch&lons-sur-Mame. 

l(m/s M. Railway in 21/4-6 brs. (fares 19 fr. 50, 18 fr. 20, 8 fr. 66 c). 

The train paBses under several streets, Intersects the Ghemln de 
Fer de Geinture, and crosses the Canal de St. Denis and the fortifl- 
cations. — 31/2 M. Pantin (32,696 inhah.). Beyond the Canal de 
rOarcq we reach (6V2 M.) Noisy-le-Sec, To the left is the large 
station of the Chemin de Fer de Grande Ceinture-, to the right di- 
verges the railway to Belfort (R. 46). — 7 M. Bondy, 

A braneh-Une runs hence to (2V2 H.) Qargan , where it forks, th^ 
right braneh running to (4Vs M.) Livry, with an ancient abbey, the left 
branch vi& the Forest of Bondy to (5 H.) Aulnay-lU-Bondyy on the line to 
Soissons (p. 82). 

8M. JL« Eaincy-Villemomhle. Le Raincy^ to the left, is a modem 
town of 8080 inhab., built in the park of the chateau, which belong- 
ed to the Orleans family and was pillaged in 1848. 

An electric tramway runs from Le Baincy to C2}/t M.) Montfermeil in 
Vs ^T, (fares 45 c., 35 c.). 

11 V2 M. ChelUS'Ooumay, At CheUea, to the left, was the villa 
of the Merovingian kings, in which Fredegunda caused Chilperic I. 
to be murdered in 534. Chelles was celebrated for its abbey, 
destroyed after 1790. Farther on is a fort. — 14 M. Vaires-Torcy. 
At Noisiel, V2 M. to the E. of Torcy, is Menier's huge chocolate-factory. 

171/2 M. Lagny (^H6tel du Pont-de-Fer^ on the Marne; de la 
Renaistance, Place du March^-au-BM), the Latiniacum of the Romans, 
is a commercial town of 5560 inhab., situated on the Marne, It was 
burnt by the English in 1358, sacked by Jacques de Lorraine in 1544, 
and taken by Henri IV from the Duke of Parma in 1591. 

The early-Gothic Church of St, Pierre, with double aisles, is 
worth a visit. It is really the choir of an immense abbey-church, 
no more of which was ever built In the square near the church is a 
curious old fountain ; and not far off are some remains of a famous 
Abbey, founded in the 7th cent, by St. Fursy (p. 61). 

A branch-railway runs from Lagny to (12 M.) Mortctrf. The trains 
start from a local station on the left bank of the river, about 1 M. from the 
main station (omnibus). TVs H. VilUneu9§-le'ComU contains a church of 
the 13th century. At (12 H.) Morturf (p. 306) the line meets the branch- 
railway from GretB to Vitry-le-Fran<?ois. 

DiUgence from Lagny to (6 H.) Ferriires (p. 308), 76 c. 

Beyond Lagny the train crosses the Marne and enters a short 
tunnel. The river here makes a detour of 10 M., which vessels 
avoid by means of the Canal de Chalifert (to the right), which is also 
carried through a tunnel. — 23 M. Esbly, on the Qtand Morin, 

Branch-line to (6 H.) Criey-en-Brie (Hdt. des Families; Trois Bois), a 
small town with remains of its medieeval fortifications. ChapelU-tur-CHey, 
1/2 H. to the E., has a remarkable church of the 13th century. 

28 M. Meauz {Buffet; mtel de la Sirhne, Rue St. Nicolas, R. 
ftom 2V2) pens, fiom 10 fr. ; Trots Rois, Rue des Ursulines, near the 
cathedral, R. from 2V2> !>• 3) omn. ^2 fr.), a town with 13,921 inhab., 
is situated on the Marne and carries on an active trade in grain and 
Brie cheeses. C^r\r^rs]r> 

Digitized by V^OOQ IC 

to Nancy. CflATEAU-THIERRY. 15. BouU. 101 

Heauz, the ancient /ofwium, was the capital of the province of Brie 
in the middle aees. In 866 it was burnt by the Nonnans^ the English 
captured it in 1422, but in 1429 it was re-taken by the French. It was 
one of the first places In France to adopt the Reformation. 

We enter the town via the Place Lafayette, adjoined on the left by 
handsome bonlevards. Farther on is the Hdtel de ViUe, containing 
a library of 20,000 vols, and a small Mwee (Sun. 2-6). 

The * Cathedral ofSt.Etienne is a Gothic edifice of the 12-16tb cent- 
uries. The facade, well worth examination, is unfortunately marred 
by the slated roof of the still unfinished S. tower. The N. tower, 
which has no spire, is 260 ft. high and commands an extensive view. 

The transept is adorned with elaborate enrichments. The choir, the 
latest portion of the building, belongs to the best period of Gothic art. 
In the Ghapelle des Fonts are a Visitation (high relief) and an Adoration 
of the Magi, attributed to Phil, de Champaigne. Bostuet, Bishop of Meaux 
from 1681 to 1704, is buried in the sanctuary, and the nave contains two 
statues of him (erected in 1822 and 1907). On the left in the ambulatory 
are a handsome portal of the 15th cent. (Forte Mavgarni) and the kneeling 
statue of Philip of Castile (d. 1627). Organ-case of 1627. 

To the left of the facade of the cathedral is the Episcopal Palace, 
rebuilt in the 17th cent., with a garden laid out by Le Ndtre; to the 
left of the choir, the Mattri8e(i2th or 13th cent.). — Some curious old 
Mills are situated in the bed of the river, behind the H6tel deYille. 
< Motor-omnibuses (starting in the Place du Marchd) ply thrice a day from 
Meaux to Couhmmiers (p. 308) via Cr^cy-en-Brie (p. lUO). 

The train passes close to the cathedral as it quits Meaux, and 
crosses the Canal de TOurcq and the Mame. — At (31 V2 M.) Trilport 
the line to Rheims via La Fert^-Mllon diverges to the left (R. 12a). 
Farther on is a tunnel, 735 yds. long. 36 M. ChangisSt-Jean, 

41 M. La Fert^-souB-Jouarre (Hdtel de VEpie; de Paris), on 
the Mame, a town with 4841 inhab., is famous for its mill-stone 
quarries. The valley in which it lies is fertile and well-cultivated, 
and the hills are covered with woods or vineyards. 

Jouarre (hotels), the Gallic Divodurus (*divine fortress'), I'A M. to the 
8. (omnibus), was formerly noted for its abbey, founded in the 7th cent., 
afterwards replaced by a Benedictine convent. One of the 13th cent, towers 
of the latter still remains. Behind the Church (15th cent.) is a crypt of 
an earlier structure, With Merovingian Columns of marble and sarcophagi 
of various periods. — A branch-line runs from La Fert€-8ous-Jouarre to 
(30 M.) Montmirail (p. 102). 

The train crosses two bridges, threads a tunnel, 1030 yds. 
long, crosses a third bridge, and sldrts the left bank. — 46 M. 
NanteuilSaacy, Beyond (62 M.) Nogent-VArtaud-Charly is another 
tunnel. — 65 M. Chezy'SW-Mame, To the left diverges the line 
from Ch&teau-Thierry to La Fert^-Milon (see p. 81). 

b^JdXhktetLU'ThieTTyi^Buffet'HSul; ElSpJiant; Cygne,B„ttom2, 
D. 3 f^.), on the Mame, Y2 M. from the station, is an attractive town 
with 7347 inhab. and manufactories of mathematical and wind in- 
struments. A fierce battle was fought here in 1814. 

At the entrance of the town, to the right, is a mediocre Statue 
of La Fontaine (p. 102). Farther on are a Belfry datipg from the 


102 Route 16. EPERNAT. ' From Parii 

16tli century, and the Place de rH6tel-de-ViUe with the handsome 
new Hdtd de ViUe and the Theatre, We ascend from the square by 
a flight of 102 steps to the ruined Castle, which we enter from the 
right. This castle, said to have been built by OhaYles Martel in 720, 
was besieged and taken by the English in 1421, by Charles V. in 
1544, and by other assailants on various other occasions. 

Quitting the ruins by the small gateway in the tower on the 
outer wall, opposite the entrance, we descend in the direction of the 
College, In the adjoining house (Rue de La Fontaine 12) Jean de La 
Fontetne (1621-95), the fabulist, was bom; it now contains a library 
and a small museum. In the Grande-Rue, lower down, rises the un- 
interesting Church of St. Cripin (15th cent.). 

Fbom ChItbad-Thibert to Bomillt, 64V2 M., railway in 21/2-3 hrs. 
(fares 9 fr. 85, 6 fr. 66, 4 fr. 35 c). — This Une diyerges from the Ghaions 
railway at (5Vs M.) Mizy (see below), the first station, and ascends the valleys 
of the Swnulin and the DhuU. Part of the water-supply of Paris is derived 
from the Dhuis by means of an aqueduct, 81 M. long, beginning at (15 M .) 
Pargny-la-DhuU. — 2IV2 M. Hontmirail (H6UI de la Tour-d'Auvefgns; du 
Orand-Condi)^ a town of 2335 inhab., situated on a hill commanding the 
pretty valley of the Petit Morin^ is noted for a victory gained by Napoleon 
over the Allies in 1814. The Chdteau, which lies to the S.W., surrounded 
by a large park, was magnificently rebuilt in the 17th cent, by Louvois, 
the minister of war of Louis XIV. Cardinal de Rett (1614-79) was bom 
at Montmirail. — b4M. Estemap is also a station on the line from Paris to 
Vitry vi& Coulommiers (p. 308). — Beyond (51 M.) Lwey-Conflans we cross 
the Seine and join the line from Paris to Troyes. — 54^/2 M. Romilly- 
sur-Seine, see p. 311. 

A branch-line also runs from Ghftteau-Thierry to (281/2 H.) La Ferti- 
Milon (p. 81) via (17V2 H.) Oukhy-Breny (p. 81); on the line from Paris to 

At Chateau - Thierry begin the vineyards of Champagne. — 
64^2 M. Mizy (see above). At (72V2 M.) Dormans Henri of Guise 
defeated the Germans and Huguenots in 1575, but received the 
wound which gave him the surname of %e Balafr^' or Hhe scarred'. 
To Rheims, see p. 89. A little farther on, to the right, is Troissy, 
with a handsome church of the 16th cent., and to the left are the 
ancient priory of Binson and the plateau of Chdtillon-sur'Mame, 
where a colossal statue of Pope Urban II. ri042-99), who was bom 
in the neighbourhood, was erected in 1887, from a design by 
Roubaud. — 78 M. Port-h-Binson-Chmilon, Near (84 M.) Damery- 
Boursault rises (to the right) the *Chdteau of Boursault, in the 
Renaissance style, the property of the Duchesse d'Uz^s. 

88 M. Epemay. — Hotels. Db l*Europb, Rue Porte -Lucas 18, 
R. from 3, B. 1, d^j. or D. 3V«, pens. 9, omn. 1 fr. ; db Pakis, Place Auban- 
Moet 28, pens. V/2 fr.; ob CHiLONS, Rue des Berceaux 6; Tbkminus, B. 
from 2, D. 2^4 fr., db la Cloohb, db la Gabb, Place Thiers, 1, 5, and 2. 
— Oafei. Du Centre^ Rue Flodoard ; de Rohan^ Rue de Ghillons ; de Paris, 
Rue Porte-Lucas. — Good Buffet at the station. 

Epemay, the Spamacum of antiquity, a town with 21,637 inhab., 
prettily situated on the left bank of the Mame, is the centre of the 
champagne-trade. The handsome houses in the suburb of La Folic, 
on the E., close to which the train passes as it quits the town, afford 


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to Nancy. CHALONS-SUR-MARNE. 15. RouU, 103 

some indication of the lucratiYe nataie of the local industry. Either 
here or at Rheims (p. 89) a visit should be paid to one of the vast 
CeUats of the champagne-makers, consisting of long galleries, hewn 
in the chalk rock, containing hundreds of thousands of bottles (the 
number laid down annually is estimated at 5 millions) and admir- 
ably adapted for the numerous delicate operations necessary for the 
production of the wine. 

Ghampagne is said to have been invented at the beginning of the iSth 
century. Its diatinguiahing quality of effervescence is d ae to the carbonic 
acid gaa generated by fermentation, vtrhioh, under its own pressure of 
4 or 6 atmospheres, is held in a state of liquefaction until th^ cork is 
removed. The best wines are made from mixtures (in various proportions) 
of black and white grapes. The must that first issues from the presses 
is reserved for the Wins de cuv^e"*, or first quality brands. After the lees 
have had time to settle, sugar is added to increase the alcoholic strength 
of the liquid, which is then placed in casks to ferment. Two or three 
months later (usually about the end of December) it is racked off (the 
sediment remaining behind), diluted or strengthened as required, and 
finally strained and fined. In spring, after more sugar has been added, 
it is again drawn off into bottles made of very strong and thick glass, 
weighing 25-30 oz. each., which are then placed head downward in cellars 
kept at a constant temperature of 46-50** Fahr. The sediment thus collect^ 
ing in the necks of the bottles is got rid of by a process known as *d^« 
gorgeage', in which the cork is allowed to fly out. The bottles are im- 
mediately , filled up with a carefully compounded mixture of old wine, 
cognac, and sugar; and after being allowed to rest for some weeks or 
months the champagne is ready for sale. 

From Btersay to FAbb - Ghampbh oisb (Bomilly), 25V3 M., railway 
in IV4-IV2 hr. (fares 4 fr. 60, 3 fr. 10 c. 2 fr.). — This line diverges to the 
right from the 6trassburg railway at (41/2 M.) Oiry-Jfareuil^ and traverses 
a wine-growing district, vii (8V2 M.) Avit9 and (14 M.) Vertiu. — 251/2 U. 
Fhrt-Ohamptnoiu is also a station on the line from Paris to Vitry-le- 
Francois (p. 809), from which there diverges, at Bizamne^ 6 M. to theW., 
a branch to Romilly (p. 311). 

Fbom EPBBifAT TO MoMTUiBAiL, SSV? H. , uarrow- gauge railway in 
8Va hrs. (fares 5 fr. 76, 3 fr. 85 c). — 16 H. Montmort has a casUe of 158J 
and a 13th cent, church. — 88^/3 M. MonimiraiU see p. 102. 

From Epemay to RheirM vi& Ay, see p. 84. Another line runs viH 
Amhcmnaif (P* 89), on the local line between Bheims and Gh§Ions-8ur>Harne. 

92 M. Oiry-Mareuil, see above. About 3 M. to the S. of (99 M.) 
Jdlons, near the Chdieau d*Ecury at Champigneul-Champagney is a 
very ancient heronry, occupied by the birds from Feb. to August. 

10772 M* CliilonB-sur-Mame. — Hotels. Db la Hautb-m^bk- 
DlBU (PI. a: G, 2), E. from 3V2, B. IV2, d^j. 31/2, D. 4, omn. V4 f»., du Eenard 
(PI. bj G,2), E. from 2Vi, B. 1, d^. or D. 3, omn. 1/2 fr.. Place de la E^- 
publique 26 and 24; db la Glogbb et ou Palais (PI. c; D,2), Ene St. Jacques 2, 
near Notre-Dame, E. 2V2-3i^, B. 1, d^j. 8, D. SVa, omn. V2 fr.; du Chemin- 
db-Fbb, near the station. — Bestaurants. Stxmpoux, Place de la E^publique, 
D. 21/3 fr.i Bujff^et at the station, d^j. or D. SVsfr., good. — Oaf^s. De la 
Bourse, Belle -Vue^ Place de la E^publique 32 and 48; des Oiseaux^ Eue 
de rHotel-de-Ville; de Parity Porte de Mame. — Brasseriei. De Tantonville^ 
Eue de Mame 82; AltactetMey Eue Thiers 18. 

Oabs. Per drive between 6 or 7 a.m. and 10 or 8 p.m., 1 fr. ; between 
10 or 8 p.m. and midnight, IV4 fr. ; at night 2 fr. ; per hr^ 2, 21/4, or 8 fr. — 
To VEpiney 8 fr. there and back, with stay of 1 hr. — Electric Tramways 
(10 c). From the Station (PI. A, i^ to the Favbtmrg Bt. Jean (PI. E, 8); from 
PeUtrFagnikree (comp. PI. A, 2) to the Fanbourg St. Jacques (PI. D, 1). — 
Post fr Telegraph Office (PI. G, 2), Eue Lochet 8. 


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104 RouU 15. CHALONS-SUR-MARNE. From Paris 

Chdlorhssur-Mamey with 27,808 Inhab. , is the chief town of 
the department of the Mame , the headquarters of the 6th army 
corps, and the seat of a hishop. It is also an important centre of 
the champagne trade. 

Ch&lons, the Catalaunum of the Bomans, is mentioned as early as the 
3rd century. In 451 the neighhourhood was the scene of the great defeat 
of Attila and his Huns by the Romans and the allied Franks and Visigoths. 
This sanguinary and hard-won victory, reckoned by Sir Edward Creasy 
among the 'Fifteen Decisive Battles of the World\ checked Attila*s Eighty 
attempt to found a new anti-Christian dynasty upon the wreck of the tem- 
poral pawer of Bome\ In 1430 and 1484 the town successfully defended 
itself against attacks by the English \ but in 1814 it was occupied by the Prus- 
sians, in 1816 by the Russians, and in Aug., 1870, by the Germans. 

From the Station (Pi. A, 2) we turn to the left, cross the rail- 
way, the Mame (which flows in an artificial channel excavated in 
1776), and finally the lateral canal, at the entrance of the town 
proper. Thence the Rue deMame leads straight to theH6tel deYille. 

The Cathedral (PI. B, G, 2), to the right in this street, is a hand- 
some Gothic edifice, built in the 13th cent, and recently restored. 
The large portal, in the classic style, was added in 1628. The fine 
interior contains some stained glass of the 13-1 6th cent., a canopied 
high-altar, with six marble columns, two handsome tombstones, on 
the pillars to the left and right of the choir, and several other works 
of art. The choir is prolonged into the nave, as at Rheims. 

Opposite the cathedral is the Irutitution 8t, Etienne^ a theolog- 
ical seminary. The square in front of it is embellished with a re- 
production of Mercitf's * Gloria Victis*, now in Paris. To the left is 
the H6ta Dieu (PI. B, 2), founded in the 16th cent, and farther 
on in the same cUrection is the Ecole des Arts et Mitiers (PI. C, 1, 2). 

The H6tel db Villb (PI. C, 2), erected in the 18th cent., pre- 
sents few features of interest. In front is a Monument to President 
CamoU The building to the right contains the Library^ with about 
73,000 vols, (open daily, except Wed., 12 to 6) , and the Musie 
(adm. Sun. andThurs., 12 to 4 or 5: on other days on application). 

In the court between the library and the Mus^e a church-portal of the 
17th cent, has been re-erected, and a good collection of Hindoo gods 
arranged. — On the groundfloor are antiquities, casts, and modem sculp- 
tures. — On the first floor are natural history collections, reproduetiona 
in carved wood of noted French works of art, and the Collection Fieot^ con- 
sisting chiefly of furniture, small works of art, and paintings. Among 
the last I are specimens of Francken^ FrimatieciOy Holbein^ P. van Bredaelj 
Qiotto (fresco), etc. 

The church of Notrb-Dame (PI. C, D, 2), a few yards behind the 
Hotel deVille, the most interesting building in Ghltlons, was erected 
between 1158 and 1322 and restored in 1852-70L It has two towers, 
surmounted by modem spires, on the facade, and two others to the £. 
of the transepts. The stained-glass windows (16th cent.) are fine, 
especially the first two on the left side. The aisles are provided 
with capacious galleries, and the three chapels in the apse are each 
preceded by two columns, from which the vaulting^springs. There 
are several fine monuments. 


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to Nancy. QHALONS-SUR-MARNE. 15. Route. 105 

On the E. outskirts of the town is the church of SL Loup (PI. £, 2), 
dating from 1120, with a handsome and recently restored interior. It 
contains a statue of St. Christopher, referred to the 15th cent., and a few 
ancient paintings, including a small triptych (Adoration of the Ma^; visitors 
may open it), hy a Flemish master of the 16th cent., in the 2nd chapel 
on the right. — The church of 8t. John (PI. E, 3), at the S.E. extremity 
of the town, dates firom the ll-16th cent, and unites a Gothic choir with 
Romanesque nave and aisle^. -> Notre Dame de PEpiney see below. 

To the S. of the Place de rH6tel-de-Ville is the church of 
8t. Alpin OPl. 0, 2\ 12-13th and 16-16th cent.), which contains 
numerous ancient paintings (Ecce Homo, on a gold ground, on the 
Iflt pillar of the choir] and some fine stained glass of the 16th century. 

The Place de la Ripublique (PI. G, 2), a little beyond St. Alpin, 
forms the centre of the town. To the right, at its other end, Is the 
Jard (Pi. B, G, 3 ; band on Sun. and Thurs. afternoons) , a public 
park lying In front of the little Chdteau du Marchi (17-18th cent.), 
now occupied by a savings-bank. The Rue Loohet, built above a 
canal passing under the chUeau, leads hence back to the town, 
passing on its way a handsome Synagogue and a Protestant Church. 
The Jard is bounded on the right by a canal, between which and the 
Marne lies the Jardin Anglais (PI. B, 3). — On the left is the Cours 
d'Ormesson (PI. G, 3), with an Agricultural Laboratory and the 
Jardin des Plantes. At the end of the Gours is the Prifecture (PI. D , 3) , 
erected in the 18th century. Facing it are the modern Archives. At 
the end of the Rue Gamot rises the Porte 8te. Croix (PI. D , 3), 
a triumphal arch, 60 ft. high, erected in 1770 to welcome Marie 
Antoinette, and left unfinished. 

The Mut^e Garinet (PI. D, 2), Rue Pasteur 13, containing paintings, 
tapestries, etc., is open free on Tues. 2-5 (l>d in winter). 

Kot far from the station, from which its two towers are visible, is 
the former Manor of Jaequueon^ now used as a distillery, brewery, and 
malt-house. Connected with it are 7 M. of cellarage, hewn in the chalk, 
which are eenerally shown on application. 

About 6 M. to the E.. on the road to Ste. Menehould, is the village 
of L'Spine, famous for its beautiful and much-frequented * Pilgrimage 
Churchy built in 1420-1529 (recently restored) to shelter a miraculous statue 
of the Virgin, found in a thorn-bush by some shepherds. The portal is 
especially elaborate. The miraculous image (restored) , the organ of the 
16th cent., the choir-screen, the treasury, and the representation of the 
Holy Sepulchre should be noticed. 

From Chalons-sur-Mame to TVoyss, see p. 316 Qocal station near the 
main-line station); to Chaumont^ see R. 46; to Amiene (Rheims), see R. 9; to 
Bheime vill Amhonnay (Epemay), see p. 89 ; to Meti vi& Verdun, see pp. 90-93. 

n. From Ch&lonB-Bnr-Mame to Naney. 

112 M. Railway in 2V4-51A hrs. (fares 20 fr. 85, 18 fr. 80, 8 fr. 90 c). 

The line skirts the chalk hUls on the right bank of the Marne, 
traversing the wide plain known as the Champagne Pouilleuse. 
At (IO8V2M. from Paris) Coolus the line toTroyes (p.316) diverges 
to the right. II6V2 M. Vitry-la-Ville has a chateau of the 18th cent., 
to the right; 12372 M. Loisy-sur^MamCy with a handsome church 
of the 13th cent., to the left. We next cross the Marne and reach — 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

106 Route 15. VITRY-LE-PRANgOIS. From PtirU 

127 M. Vitry-le-Franfois (mtetits VouageurSy Rue deVaux 34, 
R. from 3, D. SVi, pens, from 8 fr., good; de la CUnkty. E. from 
21/2 1 D. 31/2 fr.), a town with 8487 inhab., formerly fortified, 
founded on a regular plan in 1546 by Francis I. in place of Vitry- 
le-BrHU, 2V2 M. to the N.E., which was destroyed by Charles V» 
in 1644. At the end of the Avenue Gamot, leading straight on 
from the station, is a Monument commemorating the Review atVitry 
in 1891. Behind is the H6tel de ViUCy containing a small Mus^e, 
which includes natural history and antiquarian collections, a picture 
gallery, and Oriental curiosities. From the Place d'Armes, in the 
centre of the town, radiate the four chief streets. On the left side 
of the Place is the church of Notre Dame^ a large and handsome 
edifice of the 17th cent, containing two noteworthy monuments of 
the end of the 18th century. In a small square to the right is a 
bronze statue, by Maiochetti, of JBoy^r-Co^tord (1763-1846), a native 
philosopher and politician. 

Fboh Y1TBY-LB-FBAM901S TO Jbssains (Troyes, Ohaumont), SSVs H., 
railway in IVrlVi hr. (fares 5 fr. 90 c, 4 f r^ 2 fr. 60 c). — At (21 M.) Valen- 
tigny a branch diyerges to St. DitUr (p. 335). — 25 M. Brienne-le-Ohateam 
(Croix Blanche; Hayard) is famous as the seat of a militarv school (sup- 
pressed in 179Q)i of which Napoleon I. was a pupil (1779-84). A bronze 
statue of Napoleon at the age of sixteen , in front of the Hotel de Yille, 
commemorates the fact. It was also the scene of a sanguinary struggle in 
1814, between Napoleon and Bliicher, in which the latter was forced to 
retire. Brienne has giren name to a family of distinction, one of whose 
members, Jean, was Eine of Jerusalem in 1209 and Emperor of Con- 
stantinople in 1281-87. Above the town rises the large Chdteau of the 
Prince de Bauffremont-Oourtenay, dating from the 18th century. The park 
is open to tile public, and tile collection of paintings (numerous portraits) 
in the interior may also be visited. The Church dates from the 16th century. 
— Railway to Troytt vit Piney, see p. 816. 

The railway to Jessains next ascends the valley of the Auhe^ which 
it crosses beyond (28V2 HO Dienville, We now loin the line from Troyes 
to Chaumont, and reach (881/2 H.) Jessaint (p. 818). 

From Vitry-le-Franjois to Parit vi4 CouUmmiert^ see pp. 309, 308. 

Beyond Yitry the railway crosses the Mame for the last time 
and skirts the Rhine and Mame Canal ^ which begins at Yitry and 
ends at the 111, near Strassburg, a distance of 196 M. — The scenery 
now becomes monotonous. 136V2M.Ble8m6-HaiLS8ignimont (small 
Buffet) is the junction for Ghaumont (Dijon ^ Bide) ; see R. 46. 148 M. 
Sermaize-leS'Bains (H6t. de la Cloche ; de la Source, at the Etab- 
lissement), on the SaulXy with a small Etahlissement de Bains, Y2 ^* 
from the station, supplied by a mineral spring resembling that of 
Contrextfville (p. 335). 

We next cross the Saulx, the Rhine and Mame Canal, and the 
Omain, and reach (148 M.) Revigny, 

Branch-railway to (IT^/z M.) St, JHzier (p. 826); to Binon, see p. 67. 
Local railways run also to the 8.E., through the valley of the Saulx, to 
(16>/sM.) HaironvilU, and to the K.E., to (21 V2 ^0 TriaucourLvi^ (14 M.) 
Lislt-en^Barroii, whence a branch diverges to Bembercourt-aux-PoU (p. 106). 

167Y2 M. Bar-le-Duc. — Hotels. Db Mbtz Et nu Commbbcs (PI. b; 
B, 2), Boul. de la Rochelle 17; db la Gabb (PI. a; 0, 2), with caf^, opposite 
the station*, du Ctonk (PI. c\ B, 2), Boul. de la Kochelle 14, R. from 3, D. 8, 


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ioNaney, BAR-LE-DUC. 15. RouU. 107 

pens, from 7 fr. — Oafes. Det OiuauXy at the theatre (flee below); Lambert^ at 
the Hdtel de Metzj de la Rochette^ at the corner of the Rnea de la Gare and 
de la Bochelle. 

Oabi. Per drive 1 fr., per hour 2fr. (i.e. for 1-2 pers.; each addit. 
per9. % c> «aUra in the Yille Basse, 50 c. to the Ville Haute). 

Poit fr TelegTvph QfifiM i^l. 16; B, 2), Rue Voltaire 2. 

Bar-le-DuCy the ancient capital ol ULa Dukes of Bar and the chief 
town of the department of the Meuse^ with 17,807 ii^aIl^ is situated 
on the Omain and the heights rising on its left hank. It waa 
the birthplace of the second Duke of Guise (1519-63), Marshal 
Oudinot (1767-1847), and Marshal Exelmans (1776-1852). Bar- 
le-Duc is noted for its preserves, and it also produces good wine. 

In front of the railway-station is a War Monument for 1870-71 
(PI. 12j C, 1, 2> The busiest part of the town is the * Ville Basse', 
which is intersected from E. to W. by the Boulevard de la Rochelle, the 
principal street. At the E. end of this street is the new church of 
St. Jean (PI. 8 ; D, 2), an imposing edifice in the Romanesque style. 

Notre-Dame (PI. B, 1), at the W. end of the town, dates from 
the 15th cent., and possesses a remarkable Gothic choir. Grossing 
the Ornain by the bridge, we reach the Rue Entre-deux-Ponts, which 
begins at the Monument of the Michaux (PL 11 ; B, 2), a family who 
introduced important improvements in the manufacture of bicycles, 
and passes the Theatre (PI. 20; B, 2). Behind the latter is the Cafi 
dea OiseauXj one of the sights of the town, which boasts a fine col- 
lection of stuffed birds and other animals. — Farther on is the Place 
Reggio (PL B, 2), embellished with a bronze statue, by J. Debay, 
of Marshal Oudinot, Duke of Reggio (see above). — Farther up, to 
the left, is the church of 8t, Antoine (PI. 6; B, 2), of the 14th cent.; 
a canalized arm of the Ornain flows beneath the church. 

The *Ville Haute', or upper town, commanded by a Clock Tower, 
may be reached hence by following the Rue de la Oouronne to the 
Porte de la Couronne (1761) and thence ascending the Rue Gilles- 
de-TrSves to the left, passing the former College Gilles-de-Trhves 
(PL 23, B, 3; 1671). The latter street ends at the esplanade in front 
of the remains of the Chdteau (PL 2 ; B, 3), destroyed in the 
17th century. The Rue des Ducs-de-Bar, the chief street of the 
upper town, leads to the Place de la H^le, containing some Old 
Houses, one of which (No. 3) is fitted up as a commercial museum. 

The church of St. Etiennb or St, Pierre (PL 7; 0, 3) is the prin- 
cipal building in Bar-le-Duc. It dates from the 14th cent., with the 
exception of the portal, flanked by a tower, which is in the Gothic 
and Renaissance styles. 

Intbbiob. The sculptures on the screen of the first chapel on the right 
are noteworthy, but the chief oWect of interest is a *Statue (in the right 
transept), by Ligier Bidder, of St. Mihiel in Lorraine (p. 97), a pupil of 
Michael Angelo, representing a corpse in which decay has already set in. It 
is carved of St. Mihiel stone soaked in wax and oil to give it the appearance 
and durability of marble, and formed part of the tomb of Ren^ de Chalons, 
Prince of Orange, who was killed in 1544 at the siege of St. Disder. 

No. 21, Place St. Pierre, a handsome old house ij/ the early 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

108 Route 15. . TOUL. From ParU 

Renaissance period, contains a small Music (PI. 15; G, 3), open to 
the public on Sun., 1-4, and on other days on application. 

There are a number of other interesting old buildings in the 
'Yille Haute*, especially in the Rue des Ducs-de-Bar. A house in 
which Prince Charles Edward Stuart lired for three years is also 
pointed out. At the upper end of the Rue des Ducs-de-Bar is Le 
Pdquis, a promenade shaded by fine elms. In the Rue Lapique, 
-which leads down from this vicinity to the Boulevard de la Rochelle 
(p. 107), is the H6tel de ViUe (PI. 0, 2), formerly Oudinot's mansion. 

From Bas-le-Ddo to Clbbmont-bn-Abgonmb and to Ybrdum, 85 and 
42 H. (fares 4 fr. 85, 3 fr. 20 c, and 5 fr. 95. 3 fr. 80 c). Thia narrow-gauge 
line has a special station in the Rue St. Miniel, behind the railway-station. 
At (i2Vs If .) Rembereourt-auX'PoU a branch-line diverges to LiiU-en-Barrois 
(p. 103). — At (I8V2 M.) Beauzie the line forks, one branch leading to (35 M.) 
Clermont-en-Argonne (p. 91), the other to (42 M.) Vm-dun (p. 91). 

161 M. LongevilU; I64V2M. Nancois-TronvilU. Railway to 
Neufch&teau andEpinal, see p. 328. To the right is theMame canal, 
which farther on makes a wide curve and enters the valley of the 
Meuse by means of a tunnel 2V2 M. long, while the railway bends 
to the left. Beyond (171 M.) Emecou/rt'Loxeville the train enters 
the cuttings by which the line pierces the heights between the 
vaUeys of the Seine and Meuse. — 178 M. LSrouviUe (2999 Inhab.). 

Railway to Sedan vi& Verdun, see p. 97. 

183 M. Commercy (^H6t. de Paris^ R. 2-4, D. 3 fr., goodj de la 
Cloche, pens. 7 fr.), a town with 7836 inhab., is situated on an arm of 
the Meuse. The imposing Chdteau of the 17th cent., which the train 
passes on quitting the station, was at one time the residence of the 
Dukes of Lorraine, and is now used as barracks. In the town is 
a bronze Statue of Dom Calmet (1672-1767), the learned historian, 
who was bom in the neighbourhood. Commercy is noted for its 
^Madeleines', a kind of cake (1 fr. 20 c.-2 fr. per box). 

The train now crosses two arms of the Meuse, 188 M. Sorey, 
beyond which a tunnel, 612 yds. long, is traversed. 

191 M. Fagny-Bur-Meuse ( Buffet- H6tel). Railway to Domremy 
and Neuf chateau, see p. 329. We now enter the valley of the Moselle 
by a tunnel 3/4 M. long, and once more approach the Rhine and 
Marne Canal. — 194 M. Foug. 

199 M. Toul (Hdtel de la Comidie ; de Metz; Chariot dfOr; Cloche 
d'Or; de France; de la Oare; de VEurope)^ the Tullum Leucorum 
of the Romans, Is one of the most ancient towns in Lorraine. Its 
bishopric was founded by the Irish monk St Mansuy, who died about 
the year 350. It is a fortress of the first class and was taken by the 
Germans in 1870. Pop. 13,663. The town is situated between the 
canal and the Moselle, about 72 M. from the station. From the Porte 
de France the Rue Thiers leads to the Place Croix-en-Bourg, with 
a pretty marble Fountain, and is continued by the Rue Gambetta, 
at the end of which we turn to the left. 

The church of 8t. Qengoult, a fine Gothic ediflce^of the,13-15th 

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to Nancy. FROUARD. 15. RouU. 109 

cent., has an unusually lofty interior ; its large -windows are filled 
with fine stained glass of the 13th century. The finest part of the 
church is, however, the beautiful Flamboyant CloiHen, to the N. of 
the nave, dating from the 16th century. These are enclosed on both 
sides by six double arcades resting on very light and graceful columns 
and separated from each other by small truncated columns. The clois- 
ters give on the Place du Marchtf, through which we may reach tW 
church of St. Etienne, via the Rue Lafayette (right), Rue Mich&tel 
(left), and Rue Liouville (right). 

*8t, Etienne, the former cathedral , is noteworthy for its size 
and its harmonious proportions, and ^till more for its beautiftd W. 
front, which is flanked by two light and graceftil towers, terminating 
in octagonal lanterns. The choir and transepts (both with fine stained 
glass), date from the 13th, the facade from the 16th, and the nave 
from the 14th and 15th centuries. The * Cloisters which adjoin this fine 
church on the S. were built in the 13-14th cent, and are larger and 
of an even more perfect style than those of St. Gengoult They form 
a rectangle, 75 yds. long and 55 yds. broad, and consist of 22 sections 
with four arches, each with four small clustered columns and two 
small isolated columns, besides the archway to the court. — The 
Chapel entered from the cloisters contains a large altar-piece, with 
figures in ftill relief, representing the Adoration of the Shepherds. 
The large and imposing Hdtel de Ville , formerly the bishop's 
palace, built in 1740, contains the public library and a small museum. 
Behind it is a public garden with a marble figure, France recovered, 
by Maindron (1874). 

A branch-line ascends the yalley of the Moselle from Toul to (16 M.) 
PorU-Si-Vinceni (p. 334), vi& (4Vt M.) Pierre-la-TrtUhe, near which are some 
interesting caverns (partly unexplored). 

From Tool to Nmfehdttau (Dijon)^ see p. 333; to Troyes, see p. 316. 
As the train leaves Toul we enjoy a fine view, to the right, of 
both its churches and especially of the facade of St. Etienne. We 
cross the canal and theii the Moselle, — 204 M. Fontenoy^suf' Mo- 
selle. The river and canal run parallel to the railway. We again 
cross the river and reach (210 M.) Liverdun, finely situated to the 
left, with remains of fortifications. The church , containing inter- 
esting sculptures , dates from the 13th cent. ; the governor's house 
from the 15th. — The tunnel (to the left), 550 yds. long, by which 
the canal is carried beneath the town, and the bridge (to the right) 
by which it crosses the Moselle, near the railway-bridge, are strik- 
ing examples of engineering skill. The scenery at this point is, per- 
haps, the most beautiAil on the entire journey. 

At (214 M.) Prouard (Buffet-Hdlel), a village of 4180 inhab., the 
railway to Metz (R. 14a) diverges to the left, while the line to Naiicy 
quits the valley of the Moselle and enters the valley of the Meurthe. 
— 216 M. Champigneulles, with iron-works. RaUway to Ohateau- 
Salins, Vic, etc., see p. 116. — In the distance, to the left, we 
catch a glimpse of Nancy. — 219 M. Nancy (rail, restaurant), p. 110. 


16. Nancy. 

Hotels. Ghand-Hotsl (PI. d*, C, 3, 4), Place Stanislas 2, R. from 4, 
B. IV2, d^j. 4, D. 4V2-6i omn. 1 fr., well spoken of; Gr.-Hot. dk l'Univbrs 
ET Du Commerce (PI. g; B, 3, 4), Rue dcs Cannes 2, R. from 8, d^j. 3, 
D. 8V2, omn.^ V2 ^' i (3b -H6t. de l^Europb (PL b; B, 4), Rue des Cannes 5, 
R. from 3, B. iVa, d^j. 3V«» I>- *, omn. V2 fr.j Hdx. d'Aitolbtbrbb (PI. ej 
B^ 4), Rue SUnislas 61, R. from 3, B. IV4, d^j. 3, D. SVs fr.) db Pakis 
(PI. h; C, 4), Rue St. Dizier 10; AMftRiCAiN (PI. c; B, 4), Place St. Jean 3, 
near the station, R. from 3, ddj. 3 fr. — Hdtela HeubMs. H6t. Terminus, 
HES DEDX-HAMispnftRES (PI. f ; A, 4), R. 4-16, B. H/* fr., both in the Place 
Thiers, near the station; de la Poste (PI. a; C, 4), Place de ]a Cath^drale; 
Cbntral-H6tel, Rue du Faubourg-Stanislas 6, near the station, R. 4-12 fr. 

Reitauranti. Stanislas^ Place Stanislas 9 ; at the Grand- ffOM (see above)) 
Petit-Vata^ Rue des Dominicains 33, d^J. 2Vs, B. 3 fr.-, Socher de Cemcale^ 
Rue des Garmes 11, d^j. 2V4» !>• 3 ft.; at the ffdt. AnUricain (see above), 
and at the Brasserie* mentioned, below. — *Railu)ay Restaurant. 

Oafei. Cafi Glacier ^ Place Stanislas, overlooking the Pepini^re; de la 
Com^die-Rotonde^ to the right of the theatre, with gardens; du Grand-Edtel^ 
Grand-Ccifi^ StaMsku^ du Commerce^ Place Staniflas; des Deux-JUmisphh-es^ 
Place TMers. — Bratseriea. Brasserie Viennoise (restaurant), Rue des 
Michottes 6 (PI. B, 3), k la carte; Brasserie Lorraine (restaurant), Rue 
St. Jean 5, d^j. 2V2, D. 3 fr. ; Brasserie Thiers, at the station, d6j. 3, D. 8V»fr. ; 
Brasserie de fEst, at Max^ville (closed in winter; tramway, see below). 

Oaba. With one borse iVi, luggaae-cab IVsf with two horses 1*/% fr. per 
drive ) per hr. '/^ fr. more. From midnight to 6 a.m. 1/2 fr. more per drive 
or per lir. 

Electric Tramways (10-20 c; correspondance 5-10 c. extra). 1. From 
Maxiville (see PI. B, 1) to Bonsecours and to Jarville (see PI. C, D, 7). 2. From 
the Station (PI. A, 4) to St, Max and to Euey-lhs- Nancy (see PI. E, 4). 
3. From the Bon Coin (see PI. A, 4) to the Place Lobau (PI. D, 6). 4. From 
PrMlle (see PI. A, 3) to the Pipiniire and the Swing Bridge (PI. D, 1). 

5. From the Place Camot (PI. B, 3) to the Rue de Tout (see PI. A, 7). 

6. From the Rue St. Georges (PI. (3, 4) to MaUivUle (see PI. E, 1). 7. From 
the Bom Coin (see PL A, 4) to St. Spvre (PL C, 8). — Cable Railway from 
the Cimetih'e de Priville (see PI. A, 3) to St. Antoine (p. 116); fare 20 c. 

Theatrei. 2Vi^<Ure irunietpa^ (PL C. 3), Place SUnislas ) Ca<<no (PL C, 4), 
Rue St. Georges; Eden TMdtre (PL B. 4), Place St. Jean. — FStes, concerts, 
and exhibitions at the Sidle Poirel (rl. B, 4), Rue Poirel, near the station. 

Pott fr Telegraph Offlee (PL C, 4), Rue Pierre-Fonrier. 

Hatha. Bains du OSeutno, Passage du Casino (PL C, 4), Rue St. Dizier 21, 
and Rue des Dominicains 40; Bains Marceau (Hammam Nancden), Passage 
Harceau, Rue du FaubouN;-St-Jean 57, and Rue de la Commanderie (PL A, 4). 

Banks. Banque de France (PL B, 4), Rue Chansy 2; Cridit Lyonnais, 
Rue St. Georges 7bis; Soci^ti GinirdU, Rue St. Dizier 42; Comptoir d'Es- 
cotnpte, Rue St. Jean 56. 

University (p. 115). Special, courses for foreigners are given during 
the vacation (Ist Jaly-31st Oct.) and throughout the session. Apply to M. 
le Directeur des Cours, at the university. 

French Protestant Service in the Temple St. Jean, Place St. Jean, at 
10 a.m. — French Methodist Chapel^ Rue Ste. Anne 6; services at 10.30 a.m. 

Sthdicat d'Initiativb des Vosges et de Nancy, Rue Mazagran 3, Place 

Among the specialties of Nancy are Embroidery, Macaroons, and Art' 
istie Pottery and Glass. 

Chief Sights : Place Stanislas (p. Ill), Picture Gallery (p. Ill), Cath- 
edral (p. 113), ;Sf^ Epwre (p« 114), Palais Ducal (Musie Lorrain, p. 114), Fran- 
ciscan Church and Cours Liopold (p. 115). 

Nancy, the capital of the department of Meurthe-tt-MostUe, and 
tbe seat of a bishop, formerly the capital of.Lonaine and the seat 

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mteldeVau. NANCY. ' 1$. Route, HI 

of the dnkes, of whom Stanislaus Leszczynski (d. 1766), ex-king of 
Poland, was the last, is sitnated on the Meurtht^ and contains 
110,570 inhabitants. It was greatly embellished by Dukes Leopold 
(d. 1720) and Stanislaus, and is one of the best-built towns in France. 
The XJnivtrsiiy of Nancy takes a high rank and its school of forestry 
(p. 113) is the only establishment of the kind in France. 

After taking Nancy in 1476 and losing it again in the following year, 
Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, was defeated and slain beneath its 
walls by the Duke of Lorraine and the Swiss in 1477. Kancy was one of 
the first places in which the Revolutionary spirit was shown by the troops 
in 1790, and Carlyle gives a vivid account in his ^French B«90lutioh* of the 
uprising of 'Ch&teau-Vieiix' and its suppression by Bouill^. In 1870 the 
town was occupied by the Germans without resistance. — Among the 
famous natives of Nancy are Callot (1592-1635), Sylvettre (d. 1691), and 
St. Vrbain (d. 1758), the engravers: E^ri (1705-63), the architect; Marshal 
Drouot (1774-1847); Itabey (1767-1855), the painter; Grandville (or Girard; 
180847), the caricaturist (p. 113); and Edm. de Goneourt (1822-96), the writer. 

The Place Thiers (PI. A, B, 4), in front of the station, is adonied 
with a statue of President Thiers (1797-1877), by Guilbert, erected 
in 1879. The town is entered by the Forte Stanislas, of 1762, one 
of the seven handsome gates of Nancy. Farther on, to the left, are the 
Place Caraot and Gours Leopold (p. 116). To the right, in a small 
square in front of the Lycie, is a Statue ofDomhade^ the agriculturist 
(1777-1843), by David d'Angers. The Puhlic Library^ to the left of 
the square, contains 126,140 vols, and 1695 MSS. (open daily, ex- 
cept Sun. and holidays, 9-12 in summer, 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. in 
winter). The Rue Stanislas leads hence to the square of that name, 
crossing the Rue St. Dizler, the busiest in the town. 

The ♦Place Stanislas (PI. 0, 3, 4), laid out in 1762-55, the 
finest point in the town, with a bronze Statue of Stanislaus Les%' 
czynski by Jacquot, erected in 1831, is surrounded with handsome 
edifices by Htfr^, and adorned with tasteful iron railings of the 
18th cent., and two monumental fountains. To the £. rises the 
Episcopal Palace (empty since 1906), to the W. the Theatre^ to the 
N. (at a little distance) the Are de Triomphe (p. 113), and to the S 
the H6tel de Ville. 

The H6tel de ViUe (PI. C, 4), built in the 17th cent, contains 
a very handsome hall, with frescoes by Girardet and paintings by 
modern artists, and a fine staircase with wronght-iron banisters by 
Lamour. Several rooms are occupied by a Musie^ containing ancient 
and modern paintings, open to the public on Sun. and Thurs., from 
12 to 4 or 6, on other days on application (50 c). 

Pirit Floor. — Paintings. Boom I. To the right, 127. VannL Old man 
holding a terrestrial globe; •50. DucdOy Madonna; 111. SanoferratOy Madonna; 
129. Early Copy of P. Veronese^ Marriage at Cana. — 124. Miguel de Tohar, 
Monk praying; 136. School of Bologna, Annunciation; 90. Ann. Garaceiy 
Christ at the Sepulchre; 90. P. da Cortona, Cumeean Sibyl announcing to 
Augustas the birth of Christ; 7. Baroeeia. Annunciation; 87. Peruginoy 
Madonna, Christ, St. John, and angels. — 69. Guido Reni, Cleopatra; •273. 
Rubms^ Transfiguration (painted in Italy ca. 1604, under the influence r 
Caravaggio) $ 272. RoUenhammer (?), Good Samaritan ; 125. A, VaeearOj Cbr^ 
appearing to the Virgin. — 234. Van HtmessMy Expulsion of the mom 

112 Route 16. NANCY. Mu$ie. 

changers; 438. Le Barbier, Death of Ddsilles (p. 115); 119. TintorMo. ChHst 
at the Sepulchre; 20S. Dt Crayer, Plague at Milan ; 101. i2<6era, Baptism 
of Christ; no number, A. Morot^ Lion-hunt; 96. Fordmone^ Parting of 
St. Peter and St. Paul; 268. Fourbtu the Younger^ Annunciation. — 2. A, del 
Scarto, Tobias and the angel; 106. A. Saeehi^ Alexander YII. at the 'Corpus 
Christi' procession; 206. /. B. de Champaigne^ St. Paul. — In the middle, 
Equestrian statue of Duke Charles III., in bronze, by Chaligny. 

Booh n, to the left of the entrance. — To the right, 12. Btutano^ 
Christ and Caiaphas; 110. Sasio/errato^ Madonna; 62. FeU^ Melancholy 
(replica of the painting in the Louvre); 74. L. da Vinci O)^ Salvator 
Mundi; 24. Caravaggio, Descent from the Cross; 76, 77. LocaUHi, Land- 
scapes; 1. Alberti^ Portrait; 36. Cerquozei^ Fruit; 61. FeU, Archangel; 10. 
Bassano, Deluge; 26. Cigolij Entombment; 72, 73. Lcmfrcmoo^ Heads of 
Aposfles. — !39. P, van Laer^ surnamed Bamboccio^ Strolling musicians; 
418. Jouvenel, Raising of Lazarus; 190. Bakhupun, Sea-piece; 620, 621. Joe, 
Vemet^ Roman ruins. — 62. Owtrdiy Piazca di San Marco; 38. Cerguotei^ 
Fruit; 11. Battano^ Christ and the Holy Women ; 120. Tintoretto,t Pentecost; 

362. Le Guaepre, Landscape; 109. Saeehi^ Trinity; no number, Fordenone^ 
Portrait; 61. Oranaed, Holy Family. — 81. MalteaeO)^ Tapestry and jewellery. 

Room m, adjoining, whence a staircase descends to the sculptures 
(p. 113). To the right: 195. Breenbergh^ Landscape; 256. A. van Oetade^ 
Still-life; 214. Van Dyekit\ Madonna and Child (replica of the painting at 
Dresden). — 289. Teniere the younger^ Fortune-teller; 215. Van Dyck^ Van 
Opstal the painter; 221. Fr. Francken and /. de Mompety Christ in the desert; 
262. Pourhue the Elder ^ Portrait; 292. Van Thulden^ Christ after the Scourg- 
ing; 275. Rubene, Jonah (ca. 1618); 201. P. BrU^ Landscape; 243. Lievens^ 
Crucifixion; 274. Rubenij Christ walking upon the water (ea. 1618); 266. 
O. van 0«, Portrait; 222. V<m Bverdingen j Landscape; 248. Mattye^ Money- 
changers; 192. Broutcer, Disappointed toper; 237. Jordaent (more probably 
Rubene7)j Two female heads (studies); 2o8. /. Peeters^ Sea-piece; 244. /ean 
Looien, Oaks; 281. /. van Ruyedael, Oaks; 200. BHl, Rained tower; 226. 
Van Ooyen^ Landscape ; 290. Teniere the Younger^ Village-scene ; 196. Brueghel 
the Younger, Village festival; 282. /. van Ruysdael^ Hut; 202. F. BolO), Dutch 
cook; 228. Van der Hagen^ Sunset; 220. UlsTieimer^ Good Samaritan; 230. 
Seemskerek^ Pancakes; 261. Van Pool, Winter. — 209. Bekker^ Bridge; 260. 
G. van Poeknburghy Diana bathing ; 293. Van Thulden^ Perseus and Andromeda ; 
246. y. Maas, Portrait; 187. D'Arthoit, Fair; 229. C. de Heem, SUll-life; 
221. Van JF«, Still-life; 264. J. van Ravestein^), Portrait; 188. D^ArthoU, 
Edge of a wood ; 231. Heemekerck the Younger, Seller of pancakes. — 251. 
/. de Momper, Caravan; 197. 'VelveV Brueghel 0), Landscape; 242. Sa/tleven^ 
Swineherds; 225. Francis, Abb^ Gr^goire; 306. FlemUh School^ Village 
festival ; 227. Guerviller, Calvary; Oerman liehool, 288. Christ at the Sepulchre, 
300. Circle of children, 287. Beheading of John the Baptist, 298. Rape of 
Helen; 2()6. Cranaeh the Younger {% Birth of the Virgin; 299. Oerman 
/School, St. Jerome; 102. i2«&«ra(?), Sorceress; 10 j. S.Romero, Portrait. — 
216. Van Dyck (?), Count John of Nassau and his family. 

Room IV. French School of the end of the 18th and beginning of the 
19th centuries. To the left and right, 458, 459. Meunier, Palace-interiors; 
J. Girardet, 390. The sleeper, 391. Rising, 392. Nymphs sleeping, 393. Nymphs 
surprised. From right to left : 410. leabey. Napoleon I. ; 876. Fragonard\?), 
Child astonished; 820. Braecateat, Ruined house; *366. E. Delacroix, Death 
of Charles the Bold (p. Ill); 385. Fr. Girard, Portrait; 403. Grot, Marshal 
Duroc; no number, Monchablon, Landscape. — No number, Franfcde, 
Source; 467. Monvoiein, Gilbert, the poet, in hospital; A5i. Constance Metyer, 
Portrait. — 411. Isabey, Dieppe; 499. Rouillard, Marshal Oudinot; 492. 
Prud'^hon, Head of Christ; no number, Sellier (of Nancy), Mme. V. Mass^; 

363. Dvpuye, P. Jobart (1690); no number. Sellier^ The Villa Medici in 
1862; 370. Falconet, Girl with a straw hat; 311. De Beaumont, The captain's 
part; no numbers, Prinet^ Game of billiards, H. Roycr, In Brittany, PetHjean^ 
Evening at Verdun. 

Room V. Early French School. To the right of the side-door: 462. 
Mignard, Portrait; 350. N. Coypel^ Holy Family; 617. C. Vanloo^ Silenus; 

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NANCY. 16. Route. 113 

below, 428. LargillUreO), Portrait; 421. LafosteQ). Delugei 382. QaUoche^ 
St. Martin. — 825. Claude Charle$ (of Nancys 1661-1747), Holy Family; 414. 
JeaureU de Bertry, StiU-life-, 463. P. Mignard^ Lady as St. Catharine-, 512. 
Tocqui^ Portrait; 368, 869. Falconet^ Portrait of the artist and his wife; 473. 
Nattier y The playful menace; 444. Le Ifain, Interior ; •426. Largillihre^ Portrait. 
— 866. Detportes^ Game and fruit; 440. Lemoine^ Moderation of Scipio; 466. 
Monnoyer^ Flowers and still-life; 559. Vouet^ Nymph testing the arrows 
of Cupid ; 388. Claude Lorrain (?), Landscape ; ♦317. Boucher^ Aurora and 
Cephalus; 461. P.Mignard^ Madonna; 427. Largillikre, Portrait; 528. Vouet^ 
Cupid's revenge; below, Four small portraits attributed to Clouet; •513. 
Be Trap J Diana resting; 618, 519. J. B. Vanloo^ Louis XV.; no number, 
Lemoine. Hercules delivering Hesione. — 496. Rettout, Boflfrand, the 
architect (?); 425. LargiUiire, Elisabeth Charlotte of the Palatinate, Duchess 
of Orleans ; 352. Ch. CoyptH^ Einaldo and Armida. — 203. Ph. de Champaigne^ 
EcccHomo; 479, 480. Pergaut, Young birds; 488. N. Pousein^ Jesus entering 
Jerusalem; 416. Jowenet^ Portrait of himself; 204. Ph. de Champaigne^ 
Charity; no number, L. de La Hire, Bacchanale. 

Room VI. To the right: 878. E. Frianiy Idyl; 460. E. F. Miehd, Summer- 
night ; 470. A. Morot (of Nancy), Crucifixion; 603. Saiier, Mary Magdalen. — 
522. H. Venvet^ Marshal Drouot ; 506. SeUier^ The Levite of Mount Ephraim ; 
no nambers, Frianty Grief, Manety Portrait; 510. SteverUy Expectation; 607. 
SaiieTy Trickster; 493. BaffaHlliy Edmond de Goncourt. — 358. Bevillpy 
Death of Serg. Blandan (Algeria; 1842); 859. Diaz de la Pefta^ The glade; 
500. H. Boyevy Nymph ; 469. Morot, Incident at the battle of Aquce Sextiee 
(Aix in Provence; 102 B.C.); 406. Hennery Nun praying; 504. SelUety 
Leander; no number, J. Larcher^ Daphnis and Cbloe. — 582. Zubery 
Autumn evening ; 380. Frianty Portrait of himself; 506. Saiier. Vitellius at 
Bedriacum; no numbers, L. Voiriny Races at Jarville, M. ScMffy Portrait 
of himself; 482. PetUjeany Village-street in Lorraine; 397. OourlieTy End 
of autumn. 

RoOH VII, adjoining Room I, contains chiefly works by the carica- 
turist Orandville (comp. p. 111). 

Ground Floor. — Sculptures, including casts from the antique and 
modem French works in marble and bronze; busts of illustrious natives 
of Lorraine. 

The Cathedral (iVotr«-2)amc; PLC, 4), behind the H6tel de 
Ville, heyond the Prefecture, was built in 1703-42 by J. H, Mansart^ 
after the model of Sant' Andrea della Yalle at Borne. The facade 
consists of a row of Corinthian columns, surmounted by a row of 
the Composite order, and is flanked by towers terminating in domes, 
supporting lofty lanterns. In the interior are a cupola painted by 
Jacquart, some fine iron-work, and a rich treasury. 

The Bue St. Georges, in front of the cathedral, ends at the Porte 
8t. Oeorges (PI. D, 4), of 1606. The Bue BaUly leads to the left 
before this gate to the Place d" Alliance (PL D, 4), embellished with 
a fountain commemorating the alliance concluded in 1756 between 
Louis XY. and the Empress Maria Theresa. The Bue d' Alliance 
leads hence to the left to the Place Stanislas. 

In the vicinity of the Place d' Alliance are the Ecole Foreatitre (PI. D, 4), 
with an important Forestry Museum, and the Botanic Garden (PI. D, 4). 
The latter, entered from the Rue Ste. Catherine, is open all day. 

The *Arc de Triomphei formerly called the Porte Royale (PL 
C, 3), to the N. of the Place Stanislas, is the finest of the seven 
triumphal arches which decorate Nancy. It was erected in 1761 by 
Stanislaus in honour of Louis XV., his son-in-law, of whom it bears 
a medallion, and consists of a triple gateway in the Corinthian 

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114: Route 16. NANCY/ Palais Ducal. 

style, embellished with statues and bas-reliefs. On the monumental 
facades at each end are (left) a bronze Statue ofCallot (see p. Ill), 
with busts of Israel Sylvestre and Ferd. de St. Urhainy by Eug. Lau- 
rent (1877), and (right) a Statue of Heri (p. ill), by Jacquot. 

Outside the arch lies the Place de la Carriere^ named from 
the tournaments formerly held here. At the farther end is the Palais 
du Oouvemement (PI. C, 2), formerly the residence of the governors 
of the province, afterwards the prefecture, and now the headquarters 
of the 20th army corps. 

By the gateway on the right we enter the Pepiniere (PI. D, 2, 3), 
an attractive and umbrageous park, with another entrance in the 
N. comer of the Place Stanislas, to the left of the fountain. A band 
plays here on Tues., Thurs., and Sun., at 8.30 p.m. in summer and 
2.30 p.m. in winter. In 1892 a somewhat singular bronze statue by 
Rodin was erected here to Claude GeUee {Claude Lorrain; 1600-82), 
the celebrated painter. 

A little to the W. of the Place de la Garri^re rises the handsome 
modem Gothic church of St. Epvre (PI. G, 3), erected in 1863-75 
by Morey^ with a W. tower 285 ft. high (ascent 50 c), and a spire 
above the crossing. The interior, with its graceful, slender columns, 
contains mural paintings by Art, Sublet. — In front of the church 
is a small modern Equestrian Statue of Reni 11.^ Duke of Lorraine 
(1473-1508), who defeated Gharles the Bold at Nancy (p. HI), by 
M. Schiff. 

The chief edifice in the Grande-Rue, which contains several inter- 
esting old houses, is the Palais Ducal (PI. G, 2), begun on the plans of 
Jacquot de Vaucouleurs under Duke Rene II., but dating mainly from 
the reign of his son and successor Antoine le Bon (1508-44), whose 
motto ('J'esp^re avoir') appears on the keystones of the groundfloor 
arches. The most striking external feature is the *Qrarhde Porierie 
(1505-12), by Mansuy Gauvain, between the oriel windows; the 
equestrian statue oi Antoine le Bon above the door is modem (by 
I. Viard; 1850). Within is the *Mu86e Lorrain, open free on Sun. 
and Thurs., 1-4, on other days 50 c. (ring briskly). 

Obound Floob. Two galleries and a room are dedicated to the anti- 
quities and to the sculptures and other objects dating from the middle 
ages and the Renaissance. — Inner Oallery. 360. Equestrian statue of a 

(notably Nos. 290, 294 in the 3rd glass-case), pottery, etc. Then mediaeval 
sculptures, including : 91. Altar-piece of the 14th cent. ; 54. Madonna and 
Child (i5th cent.) ; 115, 116. Tombstones of the 17th cent. ; 190. Sleeping 
child (terracotta), by V. de Bouilld. — Next Room. 5. Madonna, 10. St. Joseph 
(both 15th cent.)) 49. The Seven Scenes of the Passion; 2*i0. St. Joseph 
(16th cent.); *%. Last Supper, by Florent Drouin (1582); 218. St. Ursula 
(i6th cent.); *117. Sepulchral statues, by Ligier Richier. — Outer Oallerf. 
78. St. Margaret (18th cent.); 25. Equestrian statue (15th cent. ; perhaps 
Ben^ U.). 

FiBST Floob. Chambrt du Due Antoine. to the right. 154. Handsome 
Renaissance chimney-piece; *State-bed! of JDake Antoine (1515), from the 
Chateau de Vaud^mont; seven pieces of 'Tapestry of the 15th cent., erron- 
eously supposed to have been discovered in the tent of Charles the Bold 

St. S^astien. NANCY. 16. Route, 115 

after the battle of Nancy ; under glass, piece of Persian figured silk of the 
11th century. — The Oalerie des Cerft^ adjoining, contains portraits and 
other paintings (F«yen-PlBrHn, Finding of the body of Charles the Bold), 
ancient weapons, porcelain, medals, bindings, illuminated MSS., church 
plate, etc. \ also a Temptation of St. Anthony (gouache drawing), by Callot 
tNo. 579), and an astronomical clock. In the centre is a seiies of fine 
engravings representing the funeral of Charles III. of Lorraine (1006). At 
the end is a fine Benaissance chimney'^iece firom Joinville. — The cabinet 
at the end contains antiquities from the Merovingian cemetery at Vieil- 
Aitre; coins, tokens, and dies^ plans and views of Nancy, etc. 

The Franciscan Chnrch (^Egliae des Cordeliers; PI. G, 2), ad- 
joining the ducal palace, was built by Ren^ II. In memory of his 
victory over Charles the Bold in 1477. 

The church contains several interesting monuments (bell to the left of 
the portal). On the left side of the church are monuments of Antoine de 
Vau(Umcnt (d. 1U7) and of JfoHs d^Hareourt (d. 1476), his wife; Philippa 
of Oaeldresy second wife of Bend II. (d. 1547), with a fine statue by Ligier 
Bichier, representing the deceased in the costume of a nun; Jacgua Callot; 
Charlu r., Duke of Lorraine •, and Duke Ltopold I. The ttiird monument 
on the right side of the church is the curious mausoleum of ReiU II. 
(d. 1506). The magnificent polychrome frame-work is old (ca. 1515), but the 
statues of the duke and the Maidonna date from 1816. Aij^acent is the tomb 
of Charles of Lorraine. Cardinal de Vaudimont (d. 1587), with a statue by 
Drouin, a native of Nancy. To the left of the choir is the CJiqpdle Ronde^ 
or ducal mortuary chapel, added in 1607>32, with seven black marble 

The Grande-Rue, which traverses the 'old town*, ends at the 
Porte de la Craffe or Notre-Dame (PI. C, 2), of the end of the 
14th cent., but restored in the 16th and 19th cent., with two round 
towers. Farther on is the similar Porte de la CitadelUy of 1598. 

The Rue de la Craffe leads to the left to the Conrs Leopold (PI. 
B, 2, 3), a handsome tree-shaded square, 510 yds. long and 130 yds. 
wide, at the N. end of which is the Porte DisUleSy built in 1785 ; 
the name commemorates the devotion of an officer, killed in 1790 
by the mutinous soldiery (comp. p. 111). — In the centre of the 
Cours Leopold stands a bronze Statue of Marshal Drouot (p. Ill), 
hy David d* Angers. — The Place Cartkot (PL B, C, 3) is embellished 
with a Monument to President Camot. To the right is the University^ 
designed by Morey (p. 114), with an interesthig Natural History 
Museum (open in summer on Sun. and Thurs., 1-4). Behind the 
university is a monument, by Bussl^re, to Pierre Qringoire. the poet 

A little to the E. of the Place Camot is the smaU Place Lafayette 
(PI. C,3), with a bronze equestrian statue of Joan ofArc^ byFr^miet. 

The long Rue St. Dizier (PI. C, 4, 5; tramway) traverses the 
entire S.E. half of the town. About halfway down , somewhat to 
the right, is the church of St. Sebastian (1719-31; PI. B, 4), with the 
monument of Girardet, the painter (1709-78). Farther on, the Rue 
Charles-Trois leads to the left to the modern church of St. Nicholas 
(PI. C, 5), which contains several paintings by early artists of Nancy. 
At the end of the Rue St Dizier is the double Porte St. Nicolas 
(PI. C, 6), built in the 17th cent., but altered in I860. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

116 Route 16, NANCY. 

The Rue de Strasbourg, traversing the suburb of St. Pierre be- 
yond this gate, passes the Hospital and the elegant modem church 
of 8t, Peter (PI. 0, T). Farther on is the Eglise de Bonseeourt, 
situated about IV4 M. to the S.E. of the Rue Stanislas, a church 
of the 18th cent., frequented by pilgrims, and containing the hand- 
some mausolea of King Stanislaus and his ^ife. 

The W. suburb of St. Jeany beyond the railway -station, is bnilt on 
the fite of the marsh where the body of Oharles the Bold was found 
after the Battle of Nancy (see p. 111). The modest Croix de Bourgogne 
marks the exact spot. 

The church of Bt. Lion (PI. A, 4), a handsome modem Gothic edifice, 
is dedicated to Pope Leo IX., once Bishop of Toul, who was bom at 
Dabo in Lorraine. — Among other modern edifices in this quarter are 
the MilUary Hotpiial (1907) and tbe BcuiUea of the Sacred Heart (1903-6). — 
Farther to the N., on the C6te dee Clkmoinee, is the conspienous sanatoriom 
of St. Antoine (cable-railway, see p. IIQ). 

Fboh Nam or to ChItbau-Salins (Yic; Saargemiind), 24 K., railway in 
lVs-2Vs br«- (f<^rM ^ fr-1 3 fr- ^xJ^ fr- ^ «•)• ^« foUow the Une to Paris as 
far as M.) Champigneullee (v, 109), where we tarn to the right and cross the 
Meorthe. — 17 M. Moneel (buffet) is the frontier-station, with the French 
custom-house. 191/2 H. Chambrey^ with the Qerman custom-house. From 
(21 M.) Bmrihicourty on the BeHle^ a branch-line runs to (2 M.) Vic-eur^ 
Seilley a small town with the ruins of an old castle and some disused 
salt-works. 24 M. CMteathSaline also has some abandoned salt-works, 
from which it derives its name. — Continuation of the railway to JHeuxe 
(p. 841) and BaargemUnd, see Baedeker^s Jthine. 

From Nancy to MetZy see p. 109 and B. 14 a; to JH/on^ see B. 48; to 
Epinaly see B. 47b; to Btrassburgy see K. 50^ to Calaie^ see pp. 99-94 and B. 10. 

Digitized by 



17. From Dieppe to Paris 119 i 

Pourville, Pays, etc. From Dieppe to Le Tr^port, 121, 122. ' 

a. Vijl Rouen 122 ; 

From St. Pierre -du-Vauvr»y to Lea Andelys. From * 

Vernon to Gisors, 123. — From Vernon to Pacy-aur-Eure. I 

From Mantes to Paris via Argenteuil, 124. 

t). Via Gisors and Pontolse 126 | 

From Gisors to Pont-de-PArehe, 127. 

18. Rouen 128 

Barirons of Roaen, Bonseconrs, 139. — From Bouen 
to Le Havre by the Seine. From Rouen to Orleans, 
via Elbeuf, Dreux, and Chartres, 139. 

19. From Le Havre to Paris via Rouen 140 

Ste. Adresse. From Le Havre to Honfleur, 145. — From ' 

Br^ut^-Beuzeville to Lillebonne. From Motteville to 
Clares and to Mont^rolier-Bucby. From Barentin to 
Gaudebec, 146. 

20. From Dieppe to Le Havre and Etretat 147 

Watering- Places between Dieppe and Le Havre . . 147 

. a. From Dieppe to Le Havre . 147 

From Fecamp to Etretat, 14S. 

b. From Dieppe to St.Valery-en-Caux 149 

VeuIes-les-Roses, 149. 

c. From Dieppe to Veulettes 150 

From Cany to Les Pctites-Dalles. St. Pierre-en-Port, 153. 

d. From Dieppe to Etretat 150 

Yport; Vaucotte:?, 151. -- From Etretat to Le Havre, 152. 

21. Wateriog-Places in. Calvados 152 

a. Trottville-DeauviUe, Villers-sur-Mer, Houlgate, and 
Cabourg 152 

Chateau d'H^bertot. From TrouvIUe to Honfleur, 154. — 
From Dives-Cabourg to Benouville, 156. 

b. Lion-sur-Mer, Luc-sur-Mer, Laugrane, St. Aubin- 
8ur-Mer, and GourseuIIes 156 

I. From Caen to Luc-sur-Mer direct 156 

li. From Caen to Luc-sur-Mer via Ouistreham . . 156 
IIL From Luc-sur-Mer to Langrune, St. Aubinsur- 

Mer, and CoarseuUes 157 

22. From Cherbourg to Paris 158 

Environs of Cherbourg, 161. — From Valognes to Bar- 
ileur. From Carentan to Carteret (Jeraey). FromKeuilly 
to Isignv and Grandcamp. From Lisoa to Coutances via 
St. L6, l62. — From Bayeux to Port-en-Bessin ; to Luc 
vi& Asnelles; to Arromanches \ to La Besace. From M6- 
zidon to Trouville. From Le Mesnil-Mauger to Ste. Gau- 
burge, 165. — From Lisieux to Trouvillo and to Hon- 
fleur \ to LaTrinit^-de-R^ville. Abbey of Val Richer, 166. 
— From Bernay to Ste. Gauburge. From Serquigny to 
Rouen. From Conches to Laigle, 167. ~ From Evreux 
to Louvlers; to Verneuil; to Dreux ^ to Honfleur, 168. 

Bakdkkkrs Ncrtbern France. 5th Edit. 8 - 


23. Caen 169 

From Caen to Diye8-Gal)oarg t to Falaise: to Gran- 
ville, 176. 

24. From Cherbourg to Brest . 176 

From Cioutaiices to Lessay, ITt. — St. Jacut-de-la-lfer. 
La Garde-St-Cast, 178. 

26. From Granville to Paris ; 178 

From Granville to Gond^-anr-Vire; to Arranches; to 
Mont St. Midicl, 179. •— From Vire to Bomagny; 
Hortain. From Monteecret-Vassy to Tinchebray, 180. 
— From Brionze to Couterne, 181. — From Ste. Qau- 
burge to Hortagne \ La Trappe, 182. 

26. From Caen to Le Mans vitk Aien^on. Falaise .... 185 

From Couliboeuf to Falaise, 185. 

27. From Caen to Laval vi& Domfront and Mayenne . . 188 

From Mayenne to Foug^res; to Pr^-en-Pail, 190. 

Yhe former province of Normandy (p. xxxiii), on the whole a pictur* 
esque, fertile^ and well-cultivated region, Is traversed by the lower course 
of the Seine, on which stands its old capital Rouen. Famous for its ancient 
townS) its cathedralS) its abbeys, and its castles, as well as for its historical 
associations, Kormandy enjoys also a more modern reputation for the 
watering-places that stud its "S. coast (BR. 20, 21). 

The Celtic tribes tbat inhabited this part of France w^re subdued by 
Ceesar's lieutenant Q. Titurins Sabinus (De Belle Gallico III, 17), and under 
Qratian theii^ country became known as Gallia Lugdunensis Secunda. 
Later it formed part of tbeFrankish kingdom ofNeustria. Ihe Northmen 
appeared on its coasts as early as 841, and by the contention of St. Clair- 
sur-Epte in 911 their leader Hollo was recognized by Charles th<* Simple 
as duke of ITormandv. RolU*''s most famous successor was William II. 
(1037-87), known Ss WilHam the Conqueror^ under whom the duchy reached 
the height of its power.' The conquest of England (lu66) wa<i detrimental 
to the interests of Normandyt after William's* death its possession was 
disputed until Henry I. united it definitely to the English crown by his 
victory at Tinchebray (p. 18: >) in 1106. For a century Normandy was 
governed by the Anelo-Norman kings, but in 1204 Philip Augustus of France 
captured Rouen ana in 1259 Henry III. of England was forced to renounce 
all claim to the duchy at the treaty cf Abbeville. The first properly con- 
stituted Ettates of Normandy date from 1837. The provinrc suffered 
severely during the so-called Hundred Years* War (1337-1453). Edward III. 
of England landed at St. Vaast-la-Hougue in 1345 and rapi^y overran the 
country, but by the treaty of Br^tigny in 1360 he renounced' his claim to 
Normandy, and in I860 the only Norman town in the possession of the 
English was Cherbourg. Thirty-five years later the English again appeared 
in Normandy and by 1420 Henry V. had made himself master of the 
province. Be<)istance to the foreign invader, however, gradually began 
to make headway. Rouen opened its gates to the French in 1449; next 
rear the English suffered a crushini defeat at Formigny; and in Aug. 
.450 they finally evacuated the province. Nothing remained to them of 
the old Anglo-Norman possessions except the Channel Llands. In 1468 
Normandy was declared an inalienable part of the royal domains. Since 
then its history has been comparatively tranquil, apart from its brief but 
violent part in the religious wars of the 16th cent, terminated in Normandy 
by the peaee of Amboise (1568). 



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Digitized by 



zed by Google 

17. Frbm Dieppe to Paris. 

104V2 or 126 M. Bailwat in 2V«-5hr8. (farea 18 fr. 90, 12 fr. 80, 8fr. 
30 c.)- The quiekeat trains mm via fiouen, though that route is the longest 
in mileage. — From London to Diqtpe, see p. xiii. 

Dieppe. ^ ArrivaL The boat-trains ran to and from the Oar 9 Mori' 
time (PI. D, 2j buBet?. The Cen'ral Station (PI. C, 3) lies ca. Vi M. from 
the beach. Omkibus from Uie station to the hotels or to a private address 
30 c, with luggage 60 c., at night 50 and 80 c. 

Hotels. Travellers are recommended to ascertain charges beforehand. 
♦Hotel Rotal (PI. a, 0, 1; No. 16), 200 R. from 6, B. 1V», d^j. k la carte, 
D. 6 dc 10, pens, from 16, omn. V/t fx.^ *HdT. MttTBOPoi.B (PI. d. D, 1; 
No. 24). ItO B. ftpom 5, B. 1V«, d«. 4, D. 6, pens. from, ^j, omn. 1V« t'r. ; 
•GBAHD-HdxBL (PI. g, E, I5 No. 59), 150 B. from 6, B. IV2, d^j. 4, D. 6, 
pens, from 15, omn. 1 fr.; Rboima Palace (PI. b, B, 1; No. 1), 150 R. 
from 4, B. IV2, d^j. 4, D. 5, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr. •, Hdr. dis Etbahobes 
(PI. f, D, I5 No. 33), 85 B. from SJ/f, B. I1/2, d^j. 4, D. 6, pens, from 10, 
omn. l>/2fr.; all these first-class hotels are in the Rue iguado, facing 
tiie sea and open only during the season. — Less pretending: HdT. du 
Bbih ST DB Nbwbavbn (PL e; C, 1), Rue Agnado 11, R. from 6, B. IVx, 
dej. 3, D. 4, pens, fiom 10, omn. 1 fr.} Hot. Beao-Rivage (PI. oj D, 1), 
Rue Aguado 32; H6t. des Familles (PI. 1} C, 2), Rue de rH6tel-de-ville29, 
R. from 4, B. 11/4, d^j. 3, D. 4, pens, from lU fr.; HdT. db Pabis (PI. m; 

C, 1), Place Camille-Saint-Saens 1, D. 31/7, omn. 1 fr., good. — Open all the 
year round: Hot. dr Nobbandie, Rue de la Barre 14; Hot. db la Paix 
(PL j ; C, 2), Grande-Rue 212; H6t. de la Plaqb et Windsok (PI. i; D, 1), 
Rue Aguado 20, R. from 3, B. 1, d^j. 8, D. 4, pens, from 9 fr. ; Hdr. nu 
Soleil-o'Ob (PJ. c; B. 2), Rue Gambetta 4, R. from 3, B. 1, d^j. 3, D.Si/t, 

rs. from 8Vt fr. ; Hot. dd Chabiot-d'Ob (PL k ; C, 2), Rue de la Barre otf , 
from 3, B. 1, d^j. 2V2, D. 3V«, pens, from 8fr.; HdT. du Commbbce 
(PL n: D, 2), Place Nationale 2, B. from 3, B. 1, d^j. 2Vx« D. 3, pens, 
from 9V« fr., good; HAt. no G^ant (PL p; D, 2), Rue du ChSne-Perc^; 
H6t. no Gbakd-Cbbp (PJ. h; C, 1, 2), Bue de la Halle -au-Bl^ 16. — 
Pensions (English). BuckUmdy Rue Tcustain, 52 fr. per week; Ulle. Brau^ 
Rue Gambetta 82, from 6 fr. per day ; etc. 

Restaurants. Ca/i-Reitawant du Casino , inside the casino, d^J. 4, 

D. 5fr.; Brcuserie du Casino^ outside the casino, d^j.2V2i !>• SVafr. (gipsies); 
Rutaurant du Faisan Dori or Cdboiiy Grande-Rue 74; Reiiaurani du RocJur- 
dt-Caneale^ Rue de Lamorini^re, d^j. 2, D. 2V4 fi^. (rooms also); at the 
little Bdtel da Arcade* and others under the arcades of the Bourse, next 
the Poissonnerie, on theQuai Duquesne and the Quai Henri-Quatre, d^j. IVi, 
D. 2 fr. (ind. cider; wine extra). 

Cafis. Ct^fi Suiese, Grande-Rue 1, and in the Arcades ; Ca/i de Rouen, 
Ca/i dee TribunavXy both at the other end of the Grande-Bue. 

Cabs with seats for two pers. IV4 fr. per drive (after midnight 2V2 fr.)i 
l»/4 or 8>/2 fr. per hr.; with four seats l*/2-3 and 2-4 fr. respectively. 
Higher charges on the days of the races. — Onuiibvtes for excureions, see 
p. 120. 

Post ft Telegraph Office (PL 14; C, 2), Rue Victoi-Hugo 14 and at the 
baths in summer. 

Baths (see p. 12Q). Sea-BaVie. Within the casino : with bathing box 
or tent 75 c. ; with costume and towels 1 fr. 80 c. for men, 1 fr. 95 c. for 
ladies. Outside: 60 c, 1 fr. 60, and 1 fr. 60 c; tent 60, foot-bath 15, 
costumet 60, towel 10, *peignoir' 25, costume and towels 1 fr. or 1 fr. 10 c. 
— Warm Bath* (PL 1; C^ 1), with fresh or salt water, in the adjoining 
annexe, 1-274 fr* 

Casino (open June 15th-Sept. 30th). Adm. before 12 noon 60 c, 12-6 
1 fr., evening or whole day 3 fr., less ^ter Sept. 16th; subscription per 
week 13. fortnight 23, month 40, season 60 fr. ; 2 pers. 25, 43, 6tf, and 110 fr. ; 
S pers. t6. 68, »0, and 160 fr. — Theatbe, adm. 1-6 fr. 

Steamboats to Newhaven twice a day (see p. xiii). — • Fxcursion 
steamers in sumn er to (lV«hr.) le TripcrtjM. ts (2 hrs.) &t. Valeiyen-Caux 


120 Route 27. DIEPPE. From Dieppe 

Omnibuses in summer to Veules (2 fr.), Bemeval (IV4 fr.), Pouvcille 
(1 (r,\ 76 c. to the golf-course), /*tty«(60c.), and Arque* and Mctriin-EglUe. 
^ Kotor Omnibus to VcwengevUle via Pourville. 

British Vice-consul, H. W. Lee-Jortm, Quai Duquesne 8. — American 
GonsttUr Agent, W. P. 8. Palmer-aamborne, Quai de Lille 8. 

English Church. AU Saints (PI. 7^ B, 2), Rue de la Barre; services 
at 11 and 7.30; chaplain, Rev. C. H. Merk, Ph. i>., 35 Faubourg de la Barre. 

Golf Links, on the Pourville road, 1 M. from Dieppe (visitors' fees, 
3 fr. per day, 10 h, per week, 26 fr. per month). 

Carved Ivory and Lace are specialties of Dieppe. 

Dieppe^ with 23,629 inhab., is situated in a valley formed by 
two ranges of lofty -white chalk-cliffs , at the mouth of the Arques, 
The estuary was formerly called the ^Deep\ from which the town 
derives its name. In spite of the vicinity of Le Havre, Dieppe, with 
its deep and safe harbour, still carries on a considerable trade in 
coal with England and in timber with Norway and Sweden. Dieppe 
is also a fashionable watering-place, being annually visited by 
numerous English as well as French families. Captured and destroy- 
ed several times during the wars between England and France and 
afterwards in the religious wars, Dieppe suffered severely firom the 
plague in 1668 and 1670, and in 1694 the citadel and town were 
reduced to ruins by the English fleet returning from an unsuccessful 
attack on Brest (p. 230). 

The Gare Maritime (PL D, 2) and the Steamboat Quays are on 
the N. side of the old Avant Port or outer harbour. To the S., 
beyond the Bassins Duquesne and BMgny, lies the Central Station 
(PI. C, 3} ; and to the E., between the Bassin Duquesne and the 
suburb of Le Pollet (PI. E, 3) , inhabited by sailors and fishermen 
said to he of Venetian origin, are several basins of more recent date 
extending to the S. To the N.E. of the Gare Maritime extends the 
Vieux Chethol, or harbour-entrance ; a good view may be obtained 
from the W. pier. Oh the opposite cliffs rises the modem Gothic 
church of Notre-Dame-de^Bon-Secours (PI. F, 2). The Quai Henri- 
Quatre, on which stands the College (PI. 2; D, 2), built in the 18th 
cent. , leads to the W. from the Gare Maritime to the Poissonnerie, or 
Fish-Market (PI. D, 2), a busy and animated scene in the morning. 

Along the N.W. side of the town, between the fine Boulevard 
Maritime (Pi. G-E, 1), laid out in 1901, and the Rue AguadOy in 
which are the principal hotels, stretches La Plage^ a handsome pro- 
menade, 2/3 M. long. The tall chimneys seen in the Rue Aguado 
helong to the extensive Tobacco Manufactory (PI. 9; D, 1, 2). 

At the S.W. extremity of the Plage is the Casino and Etablissement 
des Bains (PI. 0, 11. The casino is a handsome brick and glass 
structure replete with every convenience and including a small 
theatre (adm., see p. 119). The terrace in front is reserved for sub- 
scribers; below it are the dressing-cabins. In fine weather the scene 
is very amusing. 

llie site of the casino was occupied until the end of the 14th 
cent, by a small harbour, a relic of which still exists in the Porte 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

to Paris. DIEPPE. 17. Route. 121 

du Port'd'Oueat (PL 13; C, 1), a gateway with two round towers, to 
the S. Close hy, in the Place Camille- Saint- Saens, is the Theatre 
(PI. 16; C, 1); to the E. are the Warm Baths (PI. 1) and the H6tel 
de VilU (PI. 8). — The Musie (PI. 11 -, 0, 1), in the Rue de THdtel- 
de-Yllle, contains local antiquities and curiosities, a natural history 
collection, and some paintings, besides a collection of art and a 
lihrary presented in 1889 by Saint- Saens, the composer. Adm. 
daily, except Mon., in summer, 11-6; in winter on Tues., Thurs., 
Sat., and Sun., 11-3. 

The iZtie de Sygogne (PI. B, 1, 2), which skirts the haee of the 
castle-hill, leads through a new quarter to the Place de la Barre, 
whence the Rue de Ghastes (right) brings us to the entrance of the — 

Castle (PI. B, 1, 2), erected in 1433 on a precipitous white 
cliif at the S.W. extremity of the Plage as a defence against the 
English. Visitors are admitted daily from 8 to 11.30 a.m. and from 
1.30 to 5 p.m. (fee). Fine view from the terrace and from the edge 
of the adjoining cliffs. 

We regain the town by the Rue de la Barre, which is continued 
to the N.E., to the Quai Henri-Quatre, by the Grande-Rue. 

The chnrch of St. Remy (PI. 6; C, 2), not far from the castle, 
in a mixed style of the 16th and 17th cent., contains huge round 
columns, of which those in the choir have elaborately carved cap- 
itals. In the Lady Chapel, and at the entrance to the sacristy, on the 
left of the choir, are some good sculptures. 

The church of 8t, Jacques (PL 4; C, D, 2), a little farther on, 
is an interesting florid Qothic edifice, dating from the 12-16th cent, 
and possessing all that 'lace-like beauty of detail and elaborate 
finish, which charms in spite of soberer reason, that tells us it is 
not in stone that such vagaries should be attempted' (Fergusson). 
The 14th cent, portal is flanked with turrets, adorned with statues 
in niches; the W. tower dates from the 16th century. 

The Imtbkior (closed 12-l.SO) is fine. The bosses of the vaults of the 
choir and several of the chapels are sculptured ; and the church contains also 
other rich carved work in ue Pointed and Renaissance styles, such as the 
screens of most of the chapels and the fine arches to the left of the choir. 
The first chapel on the right (restored in 1612) contains a modern copy of 
the Holy Sepulchre at Eu (p. 36). The Lady Chapel is richly adorned with 
sculptures and modern stained glass by Lusson. The fine wooden stair- 
case in the sacristy, the modern choir-stalls, the organ-case (1675), and the 
pulpit (1670) are noteworthy. 

The Place Nationale, adjoining the church, is embellished with 
a fine Statue ofDuquesne (Pi. 15 ; D,2), a native of Dieppe, and one 
of the most illustrious admirals of France, who defeated the Dutch 
admiral De Ruyter in 1676. The statue is by the elder Dantan. 

The most interesting point in the environs of Dieppe is the ruined castle 
of Arquu (p. 126), situated 8V4 M. to the 8. The excursion may be made 
by train, by excursion brake, or by carriage (there and back 6 or 6 fr.). 

About 8 M. to the W. of Dieppe (omn., see p. 120), by the cliflfs of the 
Caude-OdUj lies Pourville {Grand-Hdtel ; casino), a prettily situated little 
bathing-place at the mouth of the Scie. At Varengeville-sur-Mer (hotel), 

122 Route 77. PONT-DE-L'ARCHE. From Dieppe 

2i/t M. farther on, if the Manoir ^Ango^ a farmhoase bailt in the 16th eent. 
bf the merchant-prince Ango of Dieppe, who entertained Francis I. here, 
and 2 M. farther is the Lighlhouf of Ailly (grataity). About ■/« If. from 
the lighthouse is Varengeville- Plage (Hdt. de la Terraase, pens, from 
8 f r.), and IV4 M. farther on 8te. Marguerite^ at the mouth of the Saine, 
with a Romanesque church dating in part from the 12th century. We 
next reach (SVs M. from Dieppe) Quibervitte (Hdt. du Casino, open June- 
Sept., B. from 3, B. >/«> ^^J- 3, D. SV^i pens, from 7 fr.; des Bains), a 
small bathing - place, reached also from the station of Ouville-la-Riviere 
(3 M.; omn. thrice daily in summer, 75 c). — Pays {HOtel de Aiys, of 
the first class : furnished houses to let) is a pretty little bathing-place, with 
fine villas, V/i M. to the V,E. of Dieppe by the shore (at low tide only), 
2i/s H. yi& Le Pollet. It may be reached also by omnibus (see p. 12J). 
The Citi de lAmee or Camp de dear, on the cliff to the right as we 
approach, is said to have been a Gallic ^oppidum\ — Berneval (Hdt. 
de la Plage-, Grand-Hdtel) is another bathing-place, 7 M. to the K.E. of 
Dieppe (omn. see p. 120). 

Fkom Dibppk to Lb TsftriosT , 28 M:, railway in lV4-lVs ^r. (fares 
5 fr. 16, 8 fr. 60, 2 fr. 26 c). —,2^2 M. RouxmemU (p. 126). 10 M. Envermeu, 
with a handsome church (IStH cent.). To Aumale, see p. 36. — 19Vs H. 
Touffrevill^-Criel. Criel (Hdt. de la Plage), l^A H. to the N.W., on the Tbree, 
has a small bathing-place at the mouth of the rirer, l>/4 M. farther on. — 
The line crosses the Y^res and ascends rapidly. View limited. — 26 M. 
Eu, see p. 86. — 28 M. Le Triport (p. 87). 

From Dieppe to Le Havre (F4eampj Btretat)^ see R. 20. 

a. From Dieppe to Paris yi& Boaen. 

125 M. R^iLWAT in 2Vf6 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 90, 12 fr. 80, 8 fr. 80 c). From 
Dieppe to Roven^ 88 M., in IV4-IV4 hr. (fares 8 fr. 55, 3 ir. 40, 1 fr. 70 c). — 
From Bouen to Parie, 87 M., in 2>/4-4V4 hrs. (fares 15 fr. 35, 10 fr. 40, 6 fr. 
70 c). — Altematiye route from Mantes to Paris, see p. 124. 

Soon after quitting Dieppe the train passes tbiongh a tunnel 
about 1 M. long , and then enters the valley of the 8eie^ which it 
crosses 2'2 times. I8V2 M. St Victor-VAbbaye. The line then traverses 
a high embankment, beyond which the views are attractive. At 
(26 M.) Clares (Cheval Noir) we intersect the railway from Motteville 
to Amiens (p. 146), which unites the Dieppe line with the line to Le 
Havre. To the left is the pretty chateau of CUret (16-16th cent.). 
2872 M. MonvUle, The line to Le Havre diverges to the right near 
a small viaduct 32^2 ^> Malaunay, From this point to Ronen the 
district traversed is cheerful and picturesque. — 3472 M. Maromme, 
Then a long tunnel. 

38 M. Bouen (Gare de la Rive Droite), see p. 128. 

The train passes through two long tunnels and crosses the Seine, 
affording a beautiful view of Rouen to the right. To the left, on the 
hills which rise from the river, stands the church of Bonseeours 
(p. 139). — 41^2 M. Sotteville^ an industrial suburb of Rouen; 
44 M. SLEtienne-dU'Rouvray, — 461/2 M. Oissel (smaU buffet). 
Branch-line to Elbeuf (Glos-Monfort), see p. 140. — We cross the 

51 M. Pont-de-1'Arche (H6t. de Normandit^ with c&f^, good; dei 
euX'Oares), where the Seine is again crossed, above the influx of 

) Eure^ is the junction of a line to Gisors (p. 127). The fine church 

to Parii. VERNON. 17. SouU. 


of the 15-16th cent has some admirable wood-carving of the 17-18th, 
and good stained glass of the 16-17th centuries. 

Nearly 1 If . to the W. is the rained Abbev of Bonport^ foanded about 
1190 by Bicbard Coeur-de-Lion , of which the handsome refectory (13th 
cent.) and the abbot's lodgings are the chief remains (no admission). 

To the left is the large Barrage de Poses, — 58^2 M. 8t, Pierre^du- 
Vauvray, A branch-railway runs hence to (6 M.) Loutners (p. 140). 

From St. PiEsastDU-VADvaAT to Lks Andelys, 10 M., railway In 26- 
35 min. (fares 1 fr. 90 , 1 fr. 30, 80 c). The train crosses the Seine and 
beyond {d^/t M.) Muidt skirts the right bank of that river. To the right 
appears' the castle of Gaillard (see below). 7 M. La Roqw; 8V2 H. La 
Vcteherie. — 10 M. les Andelys, a town wilh 5514 inhab., on the right bank 
of the Seine, consisting of Pttit Andely (Hdt. de la ChaSne-d'Or; Bellevue), 
nearest the Seine, and Orand Andely (Qrand-Hdtel, good} Hdt. de Paris; 
du Grand -Cerf), 1/2 M. from the station. At the former are a number of 
picturesque old houses, and the interesting Church of St. Sauveur (12th and 
; 14th cent.), with a fine choir with round pillars and a handsome altar. — 
On a neighbouring height are the (10 min.) ruins of the famous castle of 
*aaillard, erected by Richard Coeur-de-Lion in 1197 to command the 
navigation of the Seine and protect ITormandy against the French monarchs. 
Chateau Gaillard; the ^gay castle", ha? been described as the greatest mon- 
ument of Richard's genius, and it was certainly one of the finest specimens 
of a Norman castle, either in England or l^ormandy. It was protected by 
triple lines of outworks and 17 towers, and its walls were 8-14 ft. thick. 
In 1204 this almost impregnable stronghold was captured by Philip Augustus 
after a siege of Ave months. The castle afterwards became a state-prison, 
and in 13l4 w^as the scene of the murder of Margaret of Burgundy, wife 
Of Louis X. It was destroyed by Henri IV in 1603, along with the castles 
of several dangerous Korman barons. The donjon is still in tolerable 
preservation. — The Church of Notre-DauM at Grand Andely dates from 
the ld-16th cent., and contains good stained glass, choir-stalls, and various 
works of art, including a Martyrdom of St. Clara, by Q. Varin, the master 
of Poussin, and a Last Supper, attributed to Lesueur. The choir has a 
square termination. A bronze statue, by Brian (1861), of Hieolat Poustin 
(1694-1666), who was born in the neighbourhood, adorns the square bearing 
his name. The H6t9l de Ville possesses a large painting of Coriolanus by 
this artist. — A public conveyance plies between Les Andelys and the 
railway-station of Saussay-l^s-Ecouis CP« 1^- 

The train now penetrates the chalk-hills by means of two tunnels. 
— 661/2 M. GaiUon (H6t. d'Evreux) ; the town, with 2479 inhab., lies 
1 1/4 M. to the left. The chateau of GaiUon, erected in 1500 by Cardi- 
nal Georges d'Amboise and now replaced by a prison, was one of 
the finest in Normandy, and a fayourite residence of Francis I. 

77 M. Vernon (H6U d'Evreux; de Paris; du Soleil-d'Or; duLion- 
d^Or), with 8667 inhab., once strongly fortified, possesses a con- 
spicuous tower, erected in 1123 by Henry I. of England. The 
Church is an interesting building of the 12-16th cent. , containing 
several noteworthy works of art. To the S. stretches the Forest of 
Bizy ; and on the right bank of the Seine are Vemonnet and the 
Forest of Vernon. 

Fkok Vernon to Gisoks, 26 M., railway in 1V4-3 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 60, 
3fr. 10 c, 2fr.). The trains start from a special station, adioiniug JJ® 
main-Une station. — We cross the Seine. 6 M. Gasny. About 1 M. to the 
E., on the right bank of the Seine, lies La Rocht-Ouyon (Hdt. de la Mi»JJ»; 
Eonge? H6t.Pitre), with a ruined ch&teaa of the 12-16thcent. ^^^l^f^^ji 
partly modern ch&teau belonging to the Larochefoucauld ^^f^^lJIlgiive <? 
Bray-Ecos, The village of Ecoi, about 3 M. to the W., ii ^^^^ 

Digitized by LjOOQLC 

124: Route 17. BIANTES. FromDieppi 

acconnt of the fine Chdieau du Chunay, dattng from the 15-16th cent, bat 
largely rehnflt in modem timea. — At (181/2 M.) Dangu is a 16th cent, 
chateau. — 21 Vs H. ^ea*{/tet'Inval. To the left, the tower of Ifeautles (12th 
cent.). Our line now joins the railway from Pont^e-rArche (p. 127). 
231/2 M. GUort'VilU. — 25 M. CfUors-Ouett. 

Another railway runs from Vernon to (I2V2 M.) Paey-tur-Eure (p.l4(^, 
where It joins the line from Elheuf (Bouen) to Dreaz and Chartres. 

The long tunnel between (82 M.) BonnilrtS'SurSeine and RoUe- 
boise cuts off the wide circuit which the river describes here. — At 
the chateau of (85^2 M.) Roany-sur-Seine Sully, the celebrated 
minister of Henri lY, was born in 1559. The Duchessof Berry resided 
in it from 1818 to 1830. 

89 M. Mantes (Grand Cerf; Rochet de Cancale, very fair ; H6t, 
Moderne), a picturesque town with 8329 inhab., surnamed *'LaJoiU\ 
has two railway-stations : Mantes-Stationy where many of the trains 
do not stop, and Mantes-Emhranchement (buffet), where the route 
from Paris to Caen and Cherbourg (R. 22) diverges. The Avenue de 
la R^publique, passing the Falais de Justice (1906), leads from the 
latter station to the Place de la R^publique, whence the Rue Nation- 
ale descends to the Seine. 

The tower of 8t. Maclou , open at the top and adorned with 
carved niches for statues (some of which remain), unites the Gothic 
and Renaissance styles; it dates from the 14th century. The ancient 
Hdtel de Ville is under restoration. In front of It is a Renaissance 
Fountain by N. Delabrosse (1521). 

It was at the capture of Mantes that William the Conqueror 
received by a fall from his horse the injury of which he afterwards 
died at Rouen (1087) ; and that prince is said to have bequeathed a 
large sum for the erection of the present Gothic church of *Notre- 
Dame on the site of one burned down during the siege. The bulk 
of the edifice dates from the end of the 12th cent. , though it hat 
been frequently altered and recently restored. The elegant gallery 
at the top of the towers, formed by a double balustrade, is modem. 
The W. facade is embellished with a fine rose-window and the triple 
portal is richly sculptured, though unfortunately mutilated. The 
part to the right dates from 1300. 

The fine Interior, which has no transepts, is unusually brightly lighted, 
owing to the absence of stained windows. In the nave round pillars 
alternate with clustered columns, some of which rise as high as the lofty 
vaulting. The pillars at the end of the choir, and those supporting the 
stilted Gothic arches, are specially noteworthy. The triforium gallery is 
lighted by small windows from behind. The towers, from the height of 
the vaulting of the aisles to the summit of the nave, open into the church. 
The five apsidal chapels, and the large 8. chapel, the roof of which is 
supported by a central pillar, were added in the 14th century. 

A small island in the Seine here is united with Mantes and 
with Limay, on the opposite bank, by handsome modem bridges. 
An old bridge (12-1 5th cent.) spans the Seine farther up. 

From Mantes to Pabis via Argentbutl, 36 M., railway in l-l'/^ hr. 
(fares 6 fr. BO, A fr. 40, 2 fr. 86 c). This line crosses the Seine aad follows 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

to Paris. 

POISSY. 17, Route. 126 

the right bank vi& (I'A M.) lAmay, (7 M.) Jutiert, (9Vs M) Meulan-Hardri- 
courts and (15 M.) TrM. Mmtlan (Udt. Pinohon) and Triel both posseai 

(26V2 M.) CormeilUt-tn-ParUuy and (30 H.) Arg^ntmil (Soleil d'Ov), see 
B<Mdektr*9 Paris. 

From Mantes to Caen and Ofiirbovrg^ see B. 22. 

To the left, as ve quit the station of Mantes, we obtain a fine 
view of the towers of the town. 941/2 M. EpOne-Miziltts; 99^/2 M. 
lits Mureawfj 8/4 M. f^om Meulan (see above); 103 M. VemouiUet-' 
Vemeuil, the station on the left bank for Triel (see above). The 
railway now closely follows the windings of the Seine, on its left bank. 

108 M. Poitty. — Hotels. H6t£L ds Rouen, Rue de Paris 10, near 
the station; de l^Estuboeon, Boul. de la Seine 6, with flrst-class restaurant; 
DO Gbeiiin*oe-Fbr, Place de la Oare; db la Mairib, Rue de Paris 18. 

Poissy^ a town witb 7959 inhab. , was the birthplace of St. Louis 
f 121 5-70). It was also the scene of the abortive conference held in 
1561 with a view to adjust the differences between the Roman 
Catholic and Protestant parties, the compromise arrived at being 
vetoed by the Sorbonne. — The Church of Notre-Dame is a fine 
building in the Transition style Tea. 1140), altered in the 15tb and 
16th cent, and restored in the 19th. Above the centre rises a well- 
preserved bell-tower, terminating in a lofty spire, and at the W. end 
is a square tower, surmounted by an octagonal story capped by a small 
stone spire. We enter by the double portal on the S. side, an ele- 
gant work of the 16th cent., but unfortunately much mutilated. The 
nave and part of the choir show both Norman and Gothic arches, 
and groined vaults, the compartments of which are separated by 
arched Joists, as in barrel-vaulting. The triforium is formed by a 
row of twin-arches. The aisles exhibit vaulting in which the pointed 
arch is used, and the apsidal chapels have stilted vaulting. The 
apse, recently restored, is lighted by five rose-windows. — In f^ont of 
the church is a bronze statue, by Fr^mlet, of Meisaonier, the painter 
(1815-91), nearly opposite his former house. — Ligne de Grande 
Geinture to Paris, see Baedeker's Paris. 

Ill M. AchlreSy in the forest of St. Germain, is the Junction of 
the direct line from Dieppe vi& Gisors (R. 17b). At (1141/2 M.) 
Maisons-Laffltte is a ch&teau built in the 17th cent by Mausart. 
In the vicinity is a Race Course. 

The Seine is crossed before and after (II6V2 M.) HouiUeS" 
CarrikreS'St-Denis. — To the left is the asylum of Petit-Nanterre, 
to the right St. Germain and Its terrace. On the left we see the hills 
of Cormeilles, Sannois, and Montmorency, then Argenteuil, and the 
fort of MtValtfrien. The Seine is crossed for the last time at (121 M.) 
AsnihreSj where the lines to Argenteull and Versailles diverge. The 
train passes Clichy, Intersects the fortifications of Paris, threads a 
tunnel, and reaches — 

126 M. Paris (Gare St. Lazare). 

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126 RouU 17. FORGES-LES-EAUX. From DUppe 

b. From Dieppe to Faris yi& OiBoro and Fontoise. 

104V2 M. Railway in 3i/2-5»/« lira, (fare^ 18 fr. 90, 12 fr. 80, 8 fr. 30 c). 

Dieppe^ see p. 119. ^-21/2 M. Rouxmemilj junction for Le Tr€- 
port (p. 122). — 3V2 M. iLrqnes-la-Bataille, a small town at the 
confluence of the Bitkune and the ArqueSj with an imposing ruined 
CastUf is celebrated for the decisive victory won here in 1589 by 
Henri IV with 4000 men over the forces of the League, amounting to 
30,000 men, under the Due de Mayenne. Founded in the 11th cent, 
on the border of Normandy by a Seigneur d'Arques, the castle changed 
hands frequently during the wars which raged in this district; the 
English held it from 1419 until 1449, when it finally passed to 
France. It did not become a ruin till the 18th cent, and is now 
public property, always open to visitors (gratuity). Although oc- 
cupying a secure position on the summit of a hill, this stronghold 
was farther protected by a moat and two walls, the first of which is 
flanked by four massive towers of brick and stone, built by Francis I. 
The donjon dates from 1123. — The Church of Arques, a handsome 
Gothic building of the 16th cent. , contains a fine Renaissance rood- 
loft, old stained glass, etc. — The Fore$t of Arques lies to the N.E. 

I5Y2 ^* Bure$-Londiniere8. Bures has a fine Gothic church of 
the 12-18th cent, with a Holy Sepulchre of the 16th cent, and other 
noteworthy sculptures. 18 M. Mesnihres has a fine Renaissance 
ch&teau (on the left). — 21 M. HenfclUltel-en-Bray (Orand Cerf; 
Lion d^Or), a town with 4293 inhab. , is noted for its cheese. The 
handsome church dates from the 12-16th centuries. The town 
contain? a small Mus^e. — Beyond (25 M.) Nesle -St -Scire the 
railway quits the valley of the B^thune. — 30^2 ^* Serqneiix 
(Buffet), also a station on the line from Amiens to Rouen (p. 31). 

3272 M. ForgeS-les-Eanx. — Hotels. Gb.-Hot. du Pabc, at the 
Btabliasement; HSt. Conxinbntal, close by, open end of May to end of 
Sept., B. from 3, B. IV41 d^j. 4, D. 5, pens, from 10, omn. Vz fr* ; ^^ Mod- 
ton, DU Lion-d^Ob, both in the town. — Etablissbhknt (season 15th Jane- 
1st Oct.). Adm. in the morning 50 c, afternoon 1 fr., whole day IVs fr. ; 
sabseription for a month 26 fr. ; bath 2i/z-4 fr. (including linen). — Omnibus 
from the Hdt. du Lion-d^Or to Serqueuz (IVs M. ; see above) in connection 
with the trains. 

Forges owes its reputation to its cold chalybeate springs (44^/2^ 
Fahr.), first brought into notice by Anne of Austria, mother of 
Louis XIY., but now little frequented. The Etabliasement, includ- 
ing a casino and a hotel, is situated in a small park, about 1 M. 
from the station and about I74M. from Serqueux station (see above). 
A 'Summer Palace' is under construction. 

46 M. Goarnay (H6UI du Nord), a town with 4199 inhab., is 
the centre of the Pays de Bray^ a fertile grazing country, noted fox 
its butter and cheese. The fine Church of St. Hildewrt^ dating 
from the 11th cent, and restored in the 19th, contains some good 
wood-carving. The fountain in the Place Nationale dates from the 
8th century. — Railway to Beauvais, see p. 36, r^^^^]^ 

igi ize y v^ 

to Paris. GISORS. 17, Route. 127 

The line now traverses the Vallic dt Bray and beyond (54 M.) 
Amicouri'Talmontiers enters a hilly pastoral district, watered by 
the Eptt, 

61 V2 M. OiBors (Buffet; H6t, de VEcu-de-France, R. 2-6, pens. 
6-8 fr., good', Modeme; des TroiS'Pomons), a town with 4888 inhab., 
situated on the Epte and two of its tributaries, was the former 
capital of the Norman Yexin. 

The Vexin (Pagtu Vaucauinvs) was the mediseval name of the region 
extending along the right bank of the Seine foom the Oise to beyond 
Jomi^ges; the "S. portion, below Vernon, was the Norman Vexin, a 
district often disputed by the English and French, the S. part was the 
French Vexin. 

The town is divided into two parts by a broad thoroughfare, 
called the Rue de Gappeville as far as the Epte and thence the Rue 
du Bourg. The Rue de Paris leads from the foot of the Rue du Bourg 
to (V2 M.) the station of Qison-Ville (see pp. 35, 124, and below). 
— No. 20 in the Rue dn Foss^-des-Tanneurs, which runs from the 
Rue de Gappeville to the Rue de Paris, is a Timber House in the 
Renaissance style, with a richly carved facade. The Hdtel de Ville^ 
farther on, was formerly a convent; the facade on the other side is 
the more interesting. It contains a small Mus^e and a library. 

The large Church of 8t, Oervais, on the left side of the Rue 
du Bourg, dates from the 13-16th centuries. The "W. portal and 
towers form an extraordinary combination of the Gothic and Renais- 
sance styles; while the N. portal, on the other hand, is a remarkable 
specimen of florid Gothic. The flnely carved oaken doors (16- 
17th cent.) of both these portals should be noticed. 

The Intebiob. which has double aisles, illustrates the same technical 
erudition and baa taste. The most interesting objects are the carved and 
twisted pillars, on the S. side; the antique stained glass; the stone organ-loft; 
a Tree of Jesse in the 1st chapel on the S. side; a sculptured 'cadaver' (1526) 
erroneously attributed to Jean Goujon (in the 4th chapel); the vaulting 
and bosses in the aisles and side-chapels; the balustraded gaJlery in the 
S. transept; the arcading at the end of the S. aisle; 12 ancient painted 
panels behind the high-altar; the reliefs in the last chapel of thelf. aisle; 
and the curious capitals in that aisle. 

The Castle, built in the 12th cent, by Henry II. of England, oc- 
cupies the top of the hill on which the town is built. Little of this 
once strong fortress now remains except its outer ramparts, which 
are protected by a moat and 12 round towers. The decagonal donjon, 
rising on an artificial mound in the centre, dates from the 12th century. 
The large *Tour du Prisonnier', near the donjon, contains a dungeon, 
the walls of which have been curiously carved with a nail by some 
whilom captive. On this side is also a small court-yard, between 
a large round tower and a square tower. 

Fbom Oisobs to Pont-de-l'Abchb (Rouen), 33V2M., railway in IV^-i'Ahr. 
(fares 6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 10, 2 fr. 65 c). This line traverses a monotonous 
district, with numerous textile factories. — IV4 M. GUors-VilU (see above). 
10 M. Etripaffny (hotels), an ancient little town on the Bonde, with al5th cent, 
chateau. — 16 M. SausMay-liM-EeouU, Ecouu, 31/2 M. to the W., has a 
remarkable church founded in 1310. Diligence froin the station toj^es 
Andelys (!»/« fr.), 8ce p. 123. — From the station of (30 M.) Minesquevute- i 


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128 BouUia, ROUEN. Practical 

Lyons a diligence pliea to (iVs M.) Lyons-la-ForSt (Licorne; Orand-Cerf), 

Sleasantly situated in the centre of the Fdret de Lyon* (3S6 sq. M.). — llie 
ne now descends the valley of the AndelU. — ^ H. Radqpont, with a 
mined castle and a ch&tean of the 18th centuxy. — SS^/2 X. Pont-de-rArche, 
see p. 122. 

From Gisors to BeauvaU, see p. 36; to Vernon^ see p. 123. 

63 Y2 ^* Trit-Chdteau, a village with a ruined castle and a 
Gothic chnich containing some good sculpture. 

66 V2 M. Chaumont-en-Vexin (H6t. St. Nicolas) is situated on 
the slopes of a hill, on which the French kings built a castle (now 
almost wholly destroyed) to aid them in their struggles with the 
English for the possession of Normandy. The vUlage has a pretty 
church of the 15-1 6th centuries. 

As the train ascends to (70 M.) Liancourt-St- Pierre we have an 
extensive view to the left <4V2 M. Chars, junction for Magny-en- 
Vexin (Grand Gerf), an industrial village, .8 M. to the W., with an 
interesting Benaissance church. 

861/2 M. Pontoise (H6t. de la Oare; du Grand- Cerf; du Soleil 
d'Or), a town with 8492inhah., picturesquely situated on a height 
on the right bank of the Oise. The town dates from the days of 
the Romans, and from an early period played a somewhat import- 
ant part in French history, owing to its position as capital of the 
French Vexin (p. 127J and its proximity to Paris. It was frequently 
involved in the wars of the kings of France with the kings of Eng- 
land and the dukes of Normandy, and also in the civil struggles of 
later date. The only remains of its fortifications are the walls of the 
ancient chiteau, which protected the town on the side next the river. 
For farther details, see Baedeker's Paris. — Railway to Creil via 
Beaumont, see p. 32. 

Fine view to the left. We cross the Oise. — 87^2 M. Eragny- 
Neuville. Beyond (90 M.) Conflans-Fin-d'Oise we cross the Seine, 
near its confluence with the Oise. To the right diverges the railway 
to Rouen. 

From (9OV2 M.) Achhres to (104V2 M.) ParU, see p. 125. 

18. Eoaen. 

stations. Gare de VOuegt Rive Droite or de la Rue Verte (PI. C, 1), the 
chief station (buffet), for all trains to Le Havre and Dieppe^ Oare de VOnest 
Rive Gauehe or de St. Sever (PI. D, E, 5^ buffet); Gare du Nord (PI. F, G, 2), 
for Amiens (p. 31); Gare d'Orlitm* (PI. G, D. 5), Place Carnot, for Elbeuf, 
Dreux, etc. (p. 139), and for Serquigny (p. 167). 

Hotels. H6t. db la Poste (PI. f ; C, 2), Eue Jcanne-d'Arc 72, R. from 4, 
d^. 2V2, D' 3V2, pens, from it fr., well spoken of; Hot. db Pabis (PI. d; 
D, 4), Quai de Paris 50, R. from A, d^j. 3, D. 4, pens, from 12 fr., good; 
H6tbl d'Anolbtbrbb (PI. a; C, D, 3, 4), Cours Boieldieu 6, E. from 6, 
d^j. 472, D. SVa-eVz, pens, from 12 fr.; H3t. d'Albion (PI. b; C, 4), Quai 
de la Bourse 16, R. from 4, B. l»/2, d^j. 3, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr.; Hot. 
DB Fbancb (PI. e; D, 2), Rue des Carmes 99, R. from 4, d^j. 3, 1*. a, 
pens, from 11 fr. , very fair; Hot. du Xord (PI. c; G, 3), Rue de la 
Grosse-Horloge 91, R. from 3, d^j. 3, D. 3V2t pens, from 10 fr., well spoken 
of. — H6t. du Ghkmim-db-Fbr-db-Dikppb (PI. k; C, 1), Rue Yertc 22, 


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ROUEN. 18, Route, 129 

oppoaite the Qare de la Rive Droite, R. from 2V2, B. lV«i d^j. 3, D. SVa fr. ; 
H5t. VicTOKiA (PI. j; C, 1), Rue Verte 10. — Hot. dk x^obuandib (PI. g\ 
D. 8D, Rue du Bee 9-13, R. from 2, B. 1, d^j. 2V8, D. 3, pens, from 
71/2 fr., good: Thk Glabbmdon Hotel (English), Rue de la Vicomtd 3 (PI. c, 
3, 4), R. from 2, B. 1, d^j. 2V2, I>. 3, pens, from 8 fr.; H6t. de Rooen 
KT DD CoMMBBCE (PI. i; D, 3), Rue da Bee 19-23, pens. 7 fr. j Hot. Lisiedx 
(PI. hi D, 3), Rue de la Savonnerie i-, HdT. Uniykbs, Rue St. Roman g, 
R. 3-4 fr. — On the left bank: Hot. Modebne (PI. 1; D, 4), Place La 
Fayette, near the Gare de POuest. — Feruion Lemercier^ Rue Beffroi 12, 
6>Sfr.; Mme. Heller^ Rue Decamps 8. 

Beatauranta, at the hotels. Also, *Re*tauratU de la Cathidrale, Rue des 
Carmes 8, ddj. 272, D. 3V2 fr. ; ^ te PorU-dt-ParU^ Quai de Paris 34, d^j. 2, 
D. 2V«fr. i Rf$taurarU de Paris, Rue de la Grosse-Horloge 95, d^j. H/2, D. l»/4' 

2 fr.; ^ la Cow-Martin, Rue Orand-Pont 10 and 14, same charges. 

Oaf^a (those on the quays most frequented). Victor, at the theatre 
(concerts on summer evenings) « with restaurant ^ de la Bourse, Cours 
Boieldieu 5, with restaurant (d^j. 1V2-3, D. 13/4-3 fr.); Houdard, Quai de 
Paris 68; du Commerce, Quai de Paris and Place de la Rdpubliquej des Posies, 
Rue JeannC'd'Arc 43. — Brasserie de VOpira, Rue des Gharrettes, behind the 
theatre, d^j. Q^jz;!). 3 fr. (band); Brasserie Paul, Rue Grand-Pont 77 (band); 
Brasserie de VEpoque. Rue Guillaume-le-Conqu^rant 11 (PI. C, 2, 3); Brasserie 
du Vingtihtti'Siiele, Place La Fayette, at the H6t. Moderne (see above). 

Oaba. Per drive IV2 fr., per hour 2 fr. ; at night (12-6 a. m.), 2% or 

3 fr. — Each trunk 20 c. 

Electric Tramways : two systems. The first (head office at the Pont 
Comeille) comprises ten lines. 1. From the Oare du Nord (PI. F, 2) to 
Maromme (see PI. A, 3; p. 122), with a continuation to Notre-Dame-de-Bonde' 
ville-, 2. From the (iuai Oaston-Boulet (PI. B, 3) to Damital (see PI. G, 1; 
p. 31); 3. From the Edtel de Ville (PI. D, 2) to the station of SoUevUle (see 
PI. D, 5; p. 122) and to St. Etienne-du-Rouvray (p. 122); 4. From the Place 
Beauvoisine (PI. D, 1) to the Jardin des Plantes (see PI. C, D, 5; p. 134) ; 5. From 
the Place Beauvoisine to the Charireux (see PI. D, 5); 6. From the Qare de 
la Rue Verte (PI. C, 1) to Petit-QuevUly (see PI. C, 5; p. 140); 7. From the Pont 
Gorneille (PI. D, 4; p. 133) to the Gare de la Rue Verte and to the Champ des 
Oiseaus (see PI. C, 1) ; 8. From the Church of St. Sever (see PI. D, 5) to the 
Oare de la Rue Verte (PI. C, 1); 9. From the BatTiire du Havre (see PI. A, 3) 
to the RoiUe de Lyons-la- Forit (PI. G, 3); 10. Circular line, from the Pont 
Corneille to Pont Corneille^^ the quays and the boulevards. — The second 
system (head office at the Pont Boieldieu) comprises five lines : 1, 2, 3. From 
the Quai de la Bourse (PI. C, 3) to AmfrevUle-la- Mi-Voie (see PI. G, 5), to 
Bapeaume (see PI. A, 2), and to Bihorel via the Rue Louia-Bouilhet ; 4. From 
the Place Camot (PI. D, 4) to the Bassin aux BoU (see PI. A, 4) via the Rue 
L^on-Mal^tra ; 5. From the Place du Boulingrin to the CimetUre du Nord 
(see PL £, F, 1). Each line is divided into sections; fares (1st and 2nd cl.) 
15 and 10 c. within the town, 10 and 5, or 15 and 10 outside. The halting - 
places are marked by white posts. — Tramway to Bonsecours, see p. 139. 

Motor Omnibus to Le Boisguillaume and Isneauville, 2^it and 5 M. to the 
N. — Omkibus to Buclair (p. 139), 12V« M. to the W. 

Steamboats. To La Bouille (p. 139) in li/s hr., from the Pont Boieldieu 
(PI. D, 4), 5 times daily (7 times on Sun. and holidays) in summer ; fares 80 c, 
60 c, returning by rail from La Londe or La BaulUe-Moulineaux (p. 140), or 
vice versa, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 60 c, 1 fr. (omnibus to station extra). Stations, 
see p. 140. — To Le Havre, see p. 139.— A time-table (Iioraire) of the steamers 
may be procured gratis at the toll-house of the Pont Boieldieu. 

Post ft Telegraph Office, Rue Jeanne-d'Arc 45 (PI. C, 2). 

Theatres. TMdtre des Arts (PI. D, 3, 4), Quai de la Bourse (adm. 
60c.-6V«fr.) ; Thtdtre Frangais (PI. C,3),Vieux Marchd (V2-5 fr.), performances 
from Oct. to April; Alhamhra (PI. E, 3), Place de la Rdpubliqae ('/2-372 fr.); 
Folies-Bergire (PI. E, 4), He Lacroix (}/t-d fr.). 

5ath8. Bains de la Bourse, Rue Kationale 4 ; Comeille, Boul. Oauchoise 23 ; 
le Lacroix, at the Pont Gorneille; Bains-Douches, Rue du Prd 63. 
Babdkkeb's Northern France. 5th Edit. ^ioOglc 

130 lioute 18. ROUEN. History, 

Bookaellers. Langloit, Rue Thiers 20 \ LestringanL Schneider. Rue Jeanne 
d'Arc 11 and 26. 

British Consul, G.B. C. CHpperton, Quai du Havre 111»'b. — American Con- 
sul, Oscar Malmros^ Rue Jeanne-d^Arc 83 ; Yice-Consul, E. M. J. Dellepiane. 

English Church. All SainU (PI. E, 4), He Lacroix, Rue Gentrale 38; 
services on Sun. at 10.30 and 8.30. Chaplain, Rev. F. S. Sanson^ 2 Place 
Garnot. — Wesle^an Churchy at the corner of the Rue Grand-Pont and the 
Rue Madeleine; services on Sun. at 11 and 6.30. 

Roueriy formerly the capital ot Normandy , now that of the de- 
partment of the Seine-Infirieure^ and the seat of an archbishop, 
with 118,459 inhah. , is a very important cotton-mannfactnring place. 
It is the richest of French cities in mediaeval architecture, though 
the construction within the last forty years of handsome streets like 
those of Paris has swept away a large nnmher of the quaint old 
houses, that abounded in the former crooked and picturesque but not 
very healthy streets. The old walls of the town, which bade defiance 
to Henry V. of England in 1416 and to Henri IV of France in 1692, 
have been converted into boulevards planted with trees. . 

Bouen is the Geltic Rototnagtts, chief town of the Velioccuti. Under 
Augustus it was the capital of Gallia Lugdunensis Secunda, and under 
Rollo the Northman it became the centre of the Duchy of Normandy 
(p. 118). Its bishopric was established in 260. The last Duke of Normandy 
was King John of England, who murdered his nephew , Arthur of Brit- 
tany, in the castle of Rouen, and was dispossessed by Philip Augustus in 
1204. Rouen was retaken by the English in 1419, and retained until 1449. 
In 1431 it was the scene of the condemnation and burning of Joan of Arc 
(see p. 134). The town suffered severely in the later religious wars; 
Catholics and Calvinists alternately held the upper hand and rivalled each 
other in cruelty. In 1B92 the townsmen successfully resisted Henri IV ; 
but they opened their gates to him four years later, after he had abjured 
Protestantism. The Revocation of the Edict of Nantes inflicted a severe, 
though temporary, blow on the prosperity of Rouen. — Among the famous 
natives of this town are Pierre Corneille (1606-84), his brother Thomas (1625- 
1709), La Salle (1643-87), the explorer of North America, Jouvenei (1644- 
1717), Fontenelle (1657-1757), GiricauU (1791-1824), Boieldieu (1775-1834), and 
G. Flaubert (1821-80). — Gomp. T. A.Cook^ The Story of Rouen (London ; 1899). 

The chief thoroughfare of Bouen is the handsome Rue Jeanne 
d'Arc (PI. C, 1-4), which runs from the Rue Verte (Gare de la Rive 
Droite, p. 128) to the Quai de la Bourse (p. 134). At its N. end, 
where it is intersected by the boulevards, is a bronze statue, by 
Lefeuvre, of Armand Carrel (1800-36), the publicist. 

Beside the railway station is the church of St. Romain (PI. G, 1; 
17-18th cent.), with a richly decorated interior and a modern tower. 

To the left of the Rue Jeanne- d'Arc is the Tonr de Jeanne d'Axc 
(PI. C, 1), the donjon of a castle built by Philip Augustus in 1207. 
It contains a small museum with objects relating to Joan of Arc 
(entr. Rue Bouvreuil). It is uncertain whether the heroine was 
imprisoned in this tower or in one of those pulled down in 1809. 

In the Rue St. Patrice, to the right of the Rue Jeanne-d*Arc, is 
the Gothic church of St. Patrice (PI. C, 2; 16th cent.), containing 
*8tained Glass dating from 1638-1626, little inferior to that in 
St. Vincent (p. 134). The allegorical window at the end of the N. aisle, 
attributed to J. Cousin^ is considered the best. — On the E. side of 

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Cathedral. ROUEN. 18. Route. 131 

the Jardin Solfirino (PI. 0, 2), farther down the Rue Jeanne- d* Arc, 
is the Mus^e des Beaux-Arts (p. 135). 

The ♦Palais de Justice (PI. C, D, 2, 3), in the Rue aux Juifs, 
huilt hy the architects Roger Ango and RouUand Leroux (?) in the 
late-Gothic style, was erected in the 16-16th cent, for the Echiquier 
de Normandiej the supreme tribunal (Parlement) of the province. 
The central part of the edifice, with a very richly ornamented facade, 
and the projecting wings form an entrance- court, enclosed hy a railing. 
The left wing is ancient, with the exception of the staircase at the 
angle (1903) and was used as a model for the rebuilding of the 
right wing in 1844-62. The facade towards the Place Verdrel dates 
from 1885. The assizes are now held in this building. 

Intebiob. The courts are open to tbe public when in session ; at other 
times visitors apply to the concierge, who lives in the right wing (fee). 
The lavish decorations are almost entirely modern. The left wing contains 
the Salle des Procweur$ or des Pas-Ferdus^ a spacious hall with a high- 
pitched waggon- roof of timber, erected in 1499 and restored in 1876. On 
the N. side is the ancient judicial bench, erected bere in 1508, consisting 
of two stone slabs resting on iron supports. — The Salle des Audiences Solen- 
neVeSj in the right wing (usually visited first) has a ceiling- painting (Justice 
triumphant), by D. F. Laug^e. — In the central portion visitors are shown 
the small Salle de la Tow^ reserved for the king when attending the meetings 
of the parlement, and the Salle des Assises, the former meeting-hall, which 
has a iloe cassetted ceiling in carved wood (1509; restored in 1860). 

Behind the Palais de Justice, Rue St. Ld 40, is the Hdtel des 
SociiUs Savantes (1717), containing a Commercial Museum (open 
daily, except Sun. and holidays, 9-6). 

Returning to the Rue Jeanne-d'Arc, we descend it to the first 
street on the left, which brings us to the *rour de la Grosse-Horloge 
or Belfry (PI. 0, 3), erected in 1389 and restored in 1892. The 
clock, which has two large sculptured dials, is placed on a kind of 
Porch dating from 1527. In the basement of the tower is a fountain, 
with figures of Alpheus and Arethusa, and beneath the porch are 
bas-reliefs representing the Good Shepherd. The Rue Thouret, to 
the left, beyond the tower, leads past the former H6tel de Ville 
(16th cent.) to the Palais de Justice. — Opposite the end of the 
Rue de la Grosse-Horloge rises the — 

^Cathedral, or Notre- Dame (PI. D, 3), one of the grandest 
Gothic edifices in Normandy, although remarkably unsymmetrical 
in plan. The principal parts date from 1202-20 (transept of 1280). 
The *Facade (1509-30; under restoration) is profusely decorated 
in the florid style; in the tympanum of the principal portal is a fine 
Tree of Jesse (1624). The two unfinished towers of the facade are 
of unequal height. The *Tour de Beurre, the loftier and more beau- 
tiful, 252 ft. in height, derives its name from having been erected 
with the money paid for indulgences to eat butter during Lent. 
The other, the Tour St, Romain, is 245 ft. high; with the exception 
of the highest story it dates firom the 12th cent, and is thus the 
oldest part of the whole building. The beautiful Central Tower 

9* ^ 

132 Route 18. ROUEN. Cathedral. 

over the transept, is surmonnted by an inconginous iron spire (since 
a fire in 1822), which reaches the height of 486 ft. 

The two side-portals, begun in 1280 and finished early in the 
14th cent., are of great interest, especially that on the N., called 
the *Portail des Libraires from the book-stalls that once occupied 
the court. The sculptures on the tympanum (unfinished) represent 
the Resurrection and the Last Judgment, those on the aichivolt, 
saints and angels, the others, grotesque subjects. The S. portal, 
known as the Portail de la CaUnde, is said to owe its name to the 
^Calende', an imaginary animal regarded as a symbol of Christ, to 
whom the portal is dedicated. The sculptures above the entrance 
represent scenes from the Passion ; the others correspond to those 
of the N, portal. 

The Intsbio? of the church (446 ft. in length; transept 169 ft. in length; 
nave and aisles 106 ft. in width; 92 ft. in height) is in the early-Pointed 
style, and possesses three fine rose-windows in the nave and transepts. 
The choir has double aisles, and the transepts are divided into middle 
and side aisles by columns and arches of the same design as those in the 
nave. The axis of the church slopes a little towards the E. end. ^Above 
the pillars and arches of the nave runs another line of both in place of 
a triforium; above this again are two galleries one above the other; and 
higher yet, and crowning all, is seen the clerestory with its windows, so 
that there are five horizontal divisions in the walls of the nave, which parallel in England.* (Winkler^i ^French CathedraW). Fart of the 
stained glass dates from the 13th century. The first chapel on the right, 
in the Tour de Beurre, contains a large altar-piece, representing the Cru- 
cifixion and the Martyrdom of St. Stephen, and also several monuments of 
the 13th and 14th centuries. The last chapel on the 8. side of the nave 
contains the tomb of Rollo (d. 937), first Duke of Normandy, and the cor- 
responding chapel on the N. side that of his son William Longue-Ep4€ 
(d. 948); both tombs date from the 13th century. From the N. transept 
a beautiful Gothic staircase (1477-79), with open tracery, ascends to the 
chapter-library (p. 133). 

The stalls in the Choir were executed in 1457*69, under the direction 
of Fhilippot Viart, the sculptor. The iron screens of the chapels are 
closed except during service (apply to the sacristan; fee). The stained glass 
in the windows of the ambulatory dates from the 13th century. In the 
S. ambulatory is an ancient mutilated figure in limestone, 7 ft. in height, 
ot Richard Cceur-de-Uon (d. 1199), discovered in 1838; his heart is interred 
below. Its original resting-place in the choir is indicated by a small 
marble tablet. In the N. ambulatory is a corresponding (modern) figure 
of Richard's elder brother, Benrp CurtmaiUle (d. 1183), who also is buried in 
the choir. Nearly opposite the latter is the tomb of Bishop Maurille (d. 1285), 
who rebuilt the church. 

The beautiful *Lady Chapel contains several magnificent monuments. 
The Gothic chapel-like tomb to the left on entering is that of Duke Pierre II, 
de Briti (d. 1465), seneschal of Normandy. Adjoining is the monument 
of his grandson, Louie de Brixi (d. 1631), also seneschal of Normandy, erected 
by his widow, the well-known Diana of Poitiers (d. 1566), mistress of Henri II, 
and attributed to Jean Cousin and Jean Ooujon. — Farther on is the Monu- 
ment of Cardinal de Croy (d. 1844), erected in 1857. — The most imposing 
of all is the magnificent **Monument of Cardinal Oeorgee d^Amboiee (d. 1510), 
the powerful minister of Louis XII., and his nephew, who also was a 
cardinal, by Roulland Leroux^ erected in 1520-25, but modified after 1541 
when the second kneeling statue was added. In the centre are kneeling 
statues of the cardinals, and behind them a bas-relief of St. George and 
the draeon and statues of Christ, the Virgin, and six saints. The six sta- 
tuettes below represent the virtues, those above Apostles, Prophets, and 

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St. Maclou. BOUEN. IS. Route, 133 

Prophetesses. The whole is remarkable for its exquisite finish and is 
ranked among the chefs-d^oeuvre of the Renaissance in France. — The altar- 
piece, an Adoration of the Shepherds, is by PML dt Ghampaigne. 

The Chapter lAbrary (comp. p. 132) contains the Treatury of the cath- 
edral (no adm.)' The objects of interest here include the leaden box 
found in 1840 which contained the heart of Richard Goeur-de-Lion, Flemish 
and Aubusson tapestry, reliquaries including the ^fierte de St. Romain^ (see 
below), monstrances, a portrait of Card. York, the last of the Stuarts, etc. 

Visitors may ascend to the top of the spire on applying to the con- 
cierge at the Portail des Libraires (2 fr. for 1-4 pers. *, 60 c. each additional 
pers.); 390 steps to the platform, whence the view is already very fine, 
and iSSl more thence to the lantern. 

Opposite the main entrance of the cathedral is a handsome build- 
ing of the 16th cent., hy Roalland Leroux, known as the Bureau de$ 
Finances, now containing the Museum of Industrial Design (open 
daily 10-6, except Sun. and holidays). The old Cour des Comptes 
(16th cent.), to the left of the main portal, is now surrounded by 
modem buildings. 

The extensive pile immediately behind the cathedral is the Arch- 
bishop's Palace (partly 16th cent.). — Crossing the Rue de la R6- 
publique, we reach the church of — 

*8t. Haclon (PI. E, 3), a very rich example of the florid Gothic 
style, begun after 1437 by Pierre Robin and consecrated in 1521. The 
modem spire above the crossing, completed in 1868, is 289 ft. high. 
The W. Portal, a very elaborate piece of work, has a pentagonal 
porch. The exquisitely carved reliefs on the wooden * Doors are 
ascribed to Jean Goujon; and in the Last Judgment of the tym- 
panum bas-relief Ruskin finds a ^fearful grotesqueness' worthy 
of the united powers of Orcagna and Hogarth. The chief points of 
interest in the interior are the Gothic staircase leading to the organ 
(1518-20), the stained glass (15-16th cent.), and the carvings. 

At 1^0. 188, Rue MartaJnville, a short dis^nce from the church, is 
the AUre St. Maclou (PI. E, 3; from the Latin "atrium'), an ancient cem- 
etery enclosed with arcades (1526-1640) now converted into school-buildings. 
On the pillars still linger some sculptured fragments of a Dance of Death. 

We now return to the Rue de la R^publique and descend it to 
the left. The Rue des Halles, on the right, leads to the Anciennes 
JJalles (PI. D, 3), where there is a curious monument of the Renais- 
sance in the shape of the Fierte St. Romain (1542), an open chapel, 
under which runs a vaulted passage. The ancient ceremony of the 
*levtfe de la fierte', or raising of the reliquary of St. Romain by a 
condemned prisoner, who thus obtained pardon, used to be per- 
formed here every year on Ascension Day. — Passing under the 
archway of the chapel, we soon reach the quays. 

The Quays extend for 11/2 M* along the banks of the Seine, here 
upwards of 300 yds. in breadth. The river is even at this distance 
from the sea (80 M.) affected by the tide, and a harbour of con- 
siderable depth and capacity has been formed at Rouen, The Pont 
ComeilU, or *Stone Bridge' (PI. D, 4), the oldest bridge in Rouen 
passes over the lower end of the lie Lacroix^ where there is a Si 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

134 Route 18, ROUEN. Hot, du Bourgtheroulde, 

of ComeilU (p. 130), \>y David d' Angers. Farther down is the iron 
Pont Boieldieu (PI. D, 4). Above the Pont Goinellle on the Quai 
de Paris is the Porte QuUlaumt-le'Lion (PI. E, 3), a relic of the old 
walls (1749), with sculptures hy Claude Le Prince. The church of 
Bonsecours and the monument of Joan of Arc on the hill beyond 
are well seen flrom the quays. — Farther down the river is a Tranz- 
porter Bridge (Pont Tranabordeur; PI. B, 4), constructed in 1899 from 
the plans of Arnodin (toll, 10 and 5 c. ; ascent of the uprights 50 c). 
On the opposite bank lies the suburb of St. Sevkb, in which are the 
Oare dt la Rive Gauche (p. 128; PI. D, E, 6), the Qare d'Orliant (p. 128; PI. C, 
D, 5), the Jardin des Plantes^ and a monument to Abbi de La Salle (p. 87). 

Parallel to the Quai de la Bourse^ which extends along the N. 
bank to the W. of thePontBo'ieldieu, stretches the Cour8 Boieldieu^ a 
favourite promenade. At one end is the Thtdtre des Arts (P1.D,3, 4), 
and at the other a bronze Statue of Boieldieu (p. 130), by Dantan the 
Younger. Adjacent are the Bourse and Tribunal de Commerce (PI. 
G, 4), an 18th cent, building, and the Hdtel des TSUgraphes, At the 
W. end of the Quai de la Bourse is the Douane (PI. C, 4). 

We leave the quay and re-enter the town by the Rue Jeanne 
d'Arc (comp. p. 130). On the left rises the pretty little Gothic church 
of St. Vincent (PI. G, 3), built in the 16th cent., with a tower added 
in the 17th. It has double aisles, but no transept. The W. entrance, 
with its graceful porch, and the S. portal, with its fine wooden 
doors, should be noticed. 

The *atained Olats (i6th cent.) in the aisles and ambulatory of this 
church is the finest in Bouen. The windows at the ends of the K. aisle, 
by Engrand and Jean le Prince^ of Beauvals, are considered the best; they 
represent the Works of Mercy and the Glorification of the Virgin. In the 
sacristy are eight tapestries of the Renaissance and of tbe 17th cent, (shown 
on request). 

Farther to the N., oh the same side of the street, is the handsome 
Tour St. Andri (PI. G, 3 ; 1542-46), a relic of a church demolished 
in the 19th century. It stands in a small square, on one side of which 
the front of a timber-dwelling of 1520 has been re-erected. View 
from the tower, ascended by an easy staircase (always open ; fee). 

The Rue aux Ours, running to the W. from this point, leads to 
the Place de la Pucelle (PI. 0, 3), with a paltry figure of Joan of Arc 
as Bellona over a fountain, by P. Slodtz (1765). 

The *H6tel dn Boorgtheroulde (PI. G, 3), on the W. side 
of the Place (No. 15), erected at the close of the 15th cent., in the 
style of the Palais de Justice, is adorned with numerous reliefs, some 
of which represent the interview on the *Field of the Gloth of Gold* 
in 1520 (p. 22). The graceful hexagonal tower is decorated with 
sculptures, and the windows also are very beautiful. The building 
is now occupied by a bank, but the court is open to the public on 
week-days (on Sun. apply to the concierge). 

A little higher up than the Place de la Pucelle is the Place du 
VieuX'Marchi (Vh C, 3), where Joan of Arc was burned in 1431, 
on the spot marked by a cross on our plan. ^ I 

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MutSe, ROUEN. 18. RouU. 135 

The bouse in which Comeille was born is Ko. 4, Rue Corneilte, to the 
S.W. of the Place (PI. B, 3) ; his dwelling-house, now public propertV, is 
situated at Petit-Gouronne (p. 140), 51/2 H. to the S.W. 

From the N.W. comer of the Vieax Maich^ the Rue Caachoise 
leads to the Place Cauchoise (PI. B, 2), with a monnment to Pouyer- 
Quertiefy minister of finance in 1871, by Guilloux (1894). 

About Y2 M. to the N.W. is St. Oereais (PI. A, 1), a Bomanesque church 
rebuilt in 1868-76, with a curious old crypt of the 4th century. WiUiam 
the Conqueror died in the priory to which the church belonged in 1087 
(comp. p. 121). 

The Rue Thiers leads back from the Place Cauchoise to the 
Jardin Solf6rino, with the Mus^e. 

The Hntie-BibliotlL^qne (PI. G, 2), a handsome modern edi- 
fice by Sauvageot, was opened in 1888. In front of the entrance 
facing the garden are seated figures of Michel Anguier and Nic. 
Poussin^ and on the basement, to the right, is a medallion of G, 
Flaubert (p. 130). The *Mu$6e des Beaux- Arts is open daily from 
10 (Mon. from 12) to 4 or 6; gratis on Sun., Thurs., and holidays, 
other days 1 fr. The great staircase in the vestibule ascends to the 
ceramic collections. To the right and left on the groundfloor are 
sculpture rooms, and beyond them the collections of ancient (right) 
and modern (left) paintings. Sticks and umbrellas must be given 
up (tjo fee). Catalogue out of print. 

Sculptures. Boom to the Left. E. Leroux, Rachel ; on the right, 
Pollety Bloah; Marquette^ Cupid; on the left, Ltharivel-Durocher^ Toung 
girl and Cupid; Marxoton^ Chastas ; Mtuuion^ Nymph of Diana; right, Ltfhwrt- 
Deumier^ Morning-star; Simart^ Orestes; Vatselot^ Chloe ; busts and casts. — 
Boon. TO THK Bight. Caf fieri. *Seated figure of P. Comeille ; right, Guil- 
louxy Dying Orpheus; Becquet^ The Seine at its source; iflle. Diiterk^ Sleep; 
left, Pradier^ Bacchante; Etex, Monument of the painter G^ricault ; to the 
right and left of the staircase are marble busts of Napoleon, by Canova^ 
and of the painter E. H. Langlois, by David d*Ang%r*. 

Paintings. Old Masters. I. Largs Boom. To the left: no number, 
De Troy^ Susanna and the elders (1727); 470. Pe»ne, Portrait of his daughter; 
179. Dacreax, Portrait of himself; 498. Rigaud, Louis XV. 5 De Troy, 562. 
Ascension, 563. Assumption; PtUel, 464. Summer, 465. Spring; 578. Vten fik^ 
Portrait of the artist and his wife; 113. /. B. ComeilU, Baising of Lazarus; 
588. Vincent^ Portrait of Houel, landscape-painter of Bouen (1772); 423. 
Mignard, Bepose on the Flight; 235. Guardiy The Villa Medici; 191. 
Farinato^ Adoration of the Magi; 178. Jan le Ducq^ Tavern interior; 34. 
Berghem^ Concert; 455. NeUeher^ Concert; iS^. P. van Mol^ Generosity of 
Scipio; 651. PUtro Longhi, A game of cards (1702); 422. P.Mignard, Mme. 
de Maintenon; 599. Vouet^ Apotheosis of St. Louis. — The two Small 
Booms next the garden contain portraits of Albert of Austria and his 
wife by Tan Thulden (552, 553), a landscape by Huysmant (26i), and other 
Flemish works. 

II. Labob Boom. To the left: *570. Velaequet (?), Portrait; 494. 
i2t&era(?). The Good Samaritan; 493. RiberUy Zachariah; 318. Lan/ranco^ 
Mars and Venus. — 236. Ouerdno, Visitation; no number, Spanish School 
(17th cent), St. Peter weeping; 8i. Ann. Caraeei, St. Francis of Assisi; 
*472-474. PintginOy Adoration of the Magi, Baptism of Christ, Besurrection 
(predelle of the Ascension at Lyons ; comp. p. 263) ; Veronue^ 572. St. Barna- 
bas heaUng the sick, 573. Vision. — 510. Steen, Wafer-seller; 430. Van Mol, 
Head of an old man; *210. Gerard Bavid^ Madonna with saints and angels, 
one of the gems of the collection ; 803. Th. de Keyser (?), The music lesson ; 
274. JordaenSy Head of an old man; 362. Lemonnier, Plague at Milan ; 491. 
Re*tot$tt Presentation in the Temple; 365. Lemonniery same subject; 556. 

136 Route 18, ROUEN. Musie. 

Tilborff (?), Village-feast. — 564. D4 Troy, Duchease de la Force; 367. Z« 
Jfain, Nativity; *648. Sehwl of Fontainebleau, DinnA bathing; 421. Migneard^ 
Ecce Homo: *149. L, David, Portrait of a young woman drawing (Hme. 
Lebrun?); 481. Poussin, Venus and iEneas; 664. French Sefu>ol, Portrait, 
fluppofled to be of Corneille; 490. Restout, Portrait of M. du Basset; ♦284. 
Jouvmet, Death of St. Francis; 561. Tovrni^res, Portrait of Chancellor 
d'Aguesseau; 877. Le Sueur, Dream of Polyphilus. — 636. Snyders, Boar- 
hunt; 309. La Hire, Adoration of the Shepherds (1685). 

The III. Labob Room contains several figures of apostles, saints, etc. 
by Jowtenet (p. 180); also: 26. Belle (1674-1734), Portrait; 558. Toumiire*^ 
Poi trait of a girl ; 505, 504. H. Robert, Monuments and ruins ; 319. LargUlihre, 
Portrait; 285. Jouvenet^ Portrait of himself; 310. La Hire, Nativity; 321. 
LcwgiUihre, Portrait of a princess of Hohan; 165. Deeportes, Stag-hunt; 312. 
La Hire, Descent from the Cross; 457. Oudry, Deer pursued by hounds; 
no numoer, Boilly, Portrait of Boi'eldieu (p. 130); 816. N. Lancret, Bathers; 
H. Robert, o03. Sea-piece, 501. Cascades of Tivoli ; ToumUres, *660. Summer, 
*559. Autumn. — 1. Room to thb Right: 4. Caravaggio, St. Sebastian and 
Irene; 20. Bateano, Adoration of the Shepherds; School of Botticelli, 54. 
Virgin and Child, 55. Vestals. — II. Room to thb Right: 565. Be Troy, 
Nunc dimittis; 157. Beecamps, Portrait of himself; 526. Santerre, Singer; 
837. Mme. Lebrun, Portrait of Mme. Grassini. — The Gallebt on the other 
side of the large rooms contains ancient and modern drawings, a few fine 
crayons, and some paintings. — The staircases at the end of this gallery 
lead to the other wing of the building. 

Modem Pictures. — Labgb Room. To the left: Oiricault (p. 180), 
Studies; 604. Ziem, Stamboul; 489. Renouf, The pilot; 97. Chetplin^ Game 
at lotto; 107. R. Collin, Sleep; 239. Guillemet. Beach at Villers (p. 155) ; 148. 
DauXngny, Banks of the Oise; 495. Ribot, Alonso Cano on the scaffold; 
*147. Daubigny, Lock in the valley of Optevoz; 196. Flameng, Taking of 
the Bastille; no number, Binet^ In tbe sun; 566. Troyon, Cattle watering; 
124. D. Court (of Rouen), Boissy d*Anglas presiding at the Convention ; 
544. Steven*, Dog's work; no number, Marais, At pasture; 403. Maignan, 
Homage to Clovis II.; 605. Ziem, Landscape; Phil. Rousseau, 515. The 
Cheeses, 514. Coupled dogs; 496. Riesener, Leda; 607. Rochegrotse, Andro- 
mache; 216, 214, 218, 219 (farther on), Oiricault, Studies; J. F. Millet, ♦Por- 
trait of a naval officer; ^152. E. Delacroix, Justice of Tri^ftn; 115. Corot, 
Ponds of Villc-d*Avray ; no number, Ltfebwre, Griselda; 116. Corot, View 
of Ville-d*Avray; 16. Barillot, The barrier; 30. Benner, Women bathing; 
419. Mereon, St. Isidore of Madrid; 606. Ziem, Dutch landscape; 688. Vollon, 
The artist's monkey; *265. Ingres, ^La Belle Z^lie' (Mme. Aymon; lb06); 
368. Lepoittevin, Friends of the farm; 52. Boissard de Boisdenier, Episode 
on the retreat from Moscow ; no number, Cormon, The victors of Salamis ; 
25. Bellangi, Charge of cavalry at Marengo; 58. L. Boukmger, Maseppa. 
In the centre are two Sdvres vases. — The three Small Rooms to the 
front contain drawings, by Oiricault, and pictures, chieBy by .^^ and 
Lottier. — Gallebt adjoining the street: 37(). Lepoittevin, Landscape; 25^. 
Oiraud, Bowls at Pont Aven (Brittany); no number, Marais, In the meauiow; 
224. Olaize, The miserly housekeeper ; no number, J. Lemon, Portrait-group 
in a studio ; 456. Nozal, End of the day ; 2. Agache, Enigma ; 165. Dimarest, 
The last voyage ; 603. Zacharie, The woman with the pigeons ; 146. Dantcm, 
Quoit-players ; 466. Patrois, Joan of Arc led to the stake ; 142. Daliphard 
(of Rouen). Melancholy; 531. Sd>ron, Street in New York. — Small Room, 
beyond: 399. Luminals, Return from the chase; also some small pictures. 

First Floor. The first landing of the staircase from the vestibule 
(p. 135) is decorated with a 'Group of Hercules and the Lernsean Hydra, by 
P. Paget; above is a fresco (*Inter Artes et Naturam') by Puvis de Chavannes. — 
The Cebamio Colleotion, occupying six rooms on the first floor, consists 
mainly of an extensive series of Rouen faience of the 17-18th centuries. 
The best period of the manufacture is represented in Room I. — Paintings. 
Room 1. Architectural dravdngs. — Room 2. From right to left: Diiterle, 
Landscapes with animals; 369. Lepoittevin, Moonrise; no number, FUmdrin^ 
FraAngelico: 273. Jollivet, Massacre of the Innocents; no number, Schnets^ 
The flood; 43. Binet, Landscape; 254. Hillemacher, Siege of Rouen in 1418. — 

SU Ouen, ROUEN. 18. Route. 137 

Booh 8. To the right, 376. Leirel, Gentlemen in a gambling-den ; no number, 
Laugi9y The wax-taper and the Madonna; 469. L. 0. Pelotue, Moonlight 
scene; 80. Cabat.L&kQ in Italy; Courts 128. Bigoletto, 127. Gleaner; 684. 
VioUet-le-DttCj Valley of Jouy; 3. Amaury-Dnval, Woman bathing; no 
number, Bigolot^ Thrashing-mill. — Boom 4. Small pictures. — Boom 5. 
Ifo numbers, Protais, At dawn. Lapostokt, Outer harbour of Dunkirk (p. 38), 
Dawcmtt St. Bonaventura; 150. DefauXy Banks of the Loire; no numbers, 
Fouriij Death of Mme. Boyary, Laurent-Detrotuteaux, Siispects (1793); 328. 
Laugiey St. Elizabeth; 125. Court. Portrait. — Boom 6, called the Salon 
Marjolin Scheffer (drawings). — We return and next visit a long Gallest : 
313. LaHire^ Monk adoring the Virgin; 19. Basi(mo(Xit Circumcision; 492. 
HestctUt Baising of Lazarus; 524. Sctint'Ygny (17th cent.), Adoration of the 
Shepherds; 314. La Hire^ St. Anne teaching the Virgin ; 525. Sain^-Ygny^ Ador- 
ation of the Magi; no number, Courts Martyrdom of St. Agnes; 11. Aviat, 
Charlotte Corday; 342. Le/ebvre^ Death of William the Conqueror. — Passing 
through three rooms of the ceramic collection (see p. 136), we return to 
the entrance. 

The Municipal Library (visitors admitted daily, 2-4, except 
Men. and during Aug.), at the back of the Mus^e, contains 140,000 
vols., 600 incunabula, 4000 MSS., MS. music, autographs, engravings, 
medals and coins, and abput 2000 portraits of eminent Normans. 

At the angle of the Musee adjoining the Rue Thiers is the Mon- 
ument of Louis Bouilhet (1821-69), poet and dramatist, a fountain 
with bust by E. Guillaume. Opposite is the desecrated Church of 
8t. Laurent (P1.D, 2), of 1444-68 (recently restored), with a fine 
tower (1490-1501). In front of the church is a statue of Gustave 
Flaubert (p. 130), by Bernstamm (1907). 

Behind St. Laurent is the church of St. Godard (PI. D, 2), dating 
from the end of the 15th century. Most of the fine stained glass is 
either modern or restored. The chapels to the right and left of the 
choir each contain a good window of the 16th century. The choir 
Itself is decorated with mural paintings by Le H^naff (19th cent). 

If the afternoon is advanced visitors should go direct from this 
church to the Museum of Antiquities (closed at 4 or 5; p. 138); other- 
wise they may follow the Rue Thiers to the Place de VHdtel-de^ Ville. 

Here stands the church of ♦*St. Onen (PI. D, E, 2), one of the 
most beautiful Gothic churches in existence, surpassing the cath- 
edral, both in extent and in excellence of style. Most of it was built 
in 1318-39; but the W. Portal, flanked by two towers 282 ft. in 
height, and unfortunately a little too small, was erected in 1848-51. 
The * Tower over the transept, 269 ft in height and flanked with 
graceful turrets, is surmounted by an octagonal open-work lantern, 
terminating in a gallery (caUed 'La Gouronne de Normandie') which 
commands a fine prospect. The N. Facade, which is adjoined by 
the H6tel de Ville (see p. 138), has no lateral portal; but the S. 
*Portail des Marmousets (16th cent.), so called from the heads with 
which it is adorned, deserves minute inspection. The reliefs over 
the door represent the Death and Assumption of the Virgin. Above 
this portal is a magnificent rose-window, still higher is an arcade 
with six statues, and the whole is crowned with a pediment bearing 
a statue of St. Ouen (d. 678), Archbishop of Rouen. ^ j 

ed by LnOO QlC 

138 Route IS. ROUEN. mttl dt ViUt. 

Interior. The proporUons of the church (449 ft. in length, 85 ft. in 
width; transept 188 ft. in length; 106 ft. in height) are remarkably pleas- 
ing. i?here are no lateral chapels off the nave. The walls appear to be 
almost entirely displaced by the numerous windows, 135 in number, all 
filled with stained glass (mostly of the 15-16th cent.). The unusually lofty 
triforium is exceedingly beautiful. The modern rose- window in the nave 
(see p. 137) is inferior to those in the transepts. The graceful and light effect 
produced by the interior is largely due to the absence of non -structural 
ornamentation. None of the few works of art in the church are par- 
ticularly noteworthy, except, perhaps, the tombs of two abb€s of St. Ouen 
in the Lady Chapel. — The verger (fee) shows the choir-chapels and points 
out several spots which command fine views of the interior. The apsidal 
chapel contains the tomb of Alex, and Colin de Berneval, architects of 
the church in the 15th century. The fine hammered iron railing round 
the choir was executed by Kic. Flambart in 173847. The modem Gothic 
high-altar was designed by Sauvageot. The whole of the interior is reflected 
in the b^nitier near the W. door. — The visitor should not omit to ascend 
to the triforium and the outer gallery (I fr. each pers.). 

The H6tel de ViUe (PL D, E, 2), on the N. side of the church, 
a building in the Italian style, was formerly the dormitory of the 
abbey of St. Ouen. It contains handsome staircases and statues of 
Comeille and Joan of Arc In the vestibule. The council- chamber 
on the 1st floor is adorned with paintings by BaudoQin (1896). 

In front of the edifice rises a mediocre Equestrian Statue of 
Napoleon /., by Vital-Dubray (1866). At the back of St. Ouen's 
and the H6tel de Yille is a public garden, embellished with statues. 
The Chambre aux Ctercs^ a Norman tower of the 11th cent., adjoins 
the church on this side, and probably formed part of an earlier church. 

A little beyond the garden is the church of St. Vivien (PI. E, 2), dating 
from the 14-15th cent. , with an organ-case of the 17th cent. , a marble 
altar-piece of the 18th cent., etc. In the Bue Eau-deRobec (PI. E, F, 2), 
near by, are some interesting timber houses. 

We now ascend the Hue de la R^publique to the N., passing 
the Ijycie Comeille (PI. D, 1 ; 17-18th cent.), formerly a Jesuit 
college, with a chapel (1610-1704) fronting the Rue Bourg-l' Abbtf. 
At the top of the Rue de la R^publique is the large Fontaine Ste. 
Marie (PI. D, 1), by Falguilre and Deperthes^ with a figure of Rouen 
seated on an antique ship and surrounded by genii and symbolical 

To the left is an old convent, containing the *Unsenm of Anti- 
quities and the Kuseum of Natural History fPl. D, 1). 

The Antiquakian Museum (open daily, 10 to 4 or 5, except on Mon. 
and Sat.) comprises sculptures and wood - carvings of the middle ages; 
beautiful stained-glass windows and other articles nrom churches and sup- 
pressed monasteries; Roman mosaics and other antiquities; weapons; fine 
iron-work ; medals, etc. Among the most interesting objects are a wooden 
*Ciborium of the 16th cent., an enamelled ''Goblet by P. Raymond, a *Chitnneif 
Piece in carved wood, painted and gilded (16th cent.), a large *ifoeaic found 
at Lillebonne (p. 146) in 1870. another mosaic of Orpheus and the animals, etc. 

The MusftDM D^HisTOiBB Natdbblls, the entrance to which is near the 
Bue Beauvoisine, is open daily, 10 to 4 or 5 (on Hon. from 12), adm. 
50 c., free on Sun., Thurs., and holidays. The collection of birds on the 
third floor is noteworthy. 

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EnviroM, ROUEN. 18. Route. 139 

Envibons of Roubn. 

From Roujem to Bonsbcocbs. — 1. By the EUctric Tramtoay to MetnU- 
Etnard (blue and white cftra), leaving the Quai de Paris, a little above 
the Pont Corneille (PI. E, 1), every 10-20 min. and reaching Bonsecours in 
15-20 min. ; fares 40 or 30 c., return 50 or 25 c. 2. By the Tramway to Am/re- 
ville (see p. 129^ blue disk with white stripes) and the Funiadar Railway 
to Eauplet: tramway (15 or 10 c.) from the Gare d' Orleans (PI. D, 4) along 
the Quai de Paris and the Boute d'Eau^let to the station of the funicular 
railway (ascent or descent every */< hr. in 5 min., fare 25 c). — There are 
several caftfs and restaurants .at Bonsecours: Casino, near the funicular 
railway, d^j. 2V4. !>• 2^/4 fr.; A Ma Campagnt^ Boute de Paris 75, near the 
station of the Mesnil-Esnard tramway, d<j. ii/s, I>- 1^4 ^' 

BonseooorSt sitaated lon a hill on the right bank of the Seine, 
2 M. above Ronen, is a favourite resort for the sake of the view, the 
church, and the monument to Joan of Arc. 

The Chubch of Bonsbcoubs, a pilgrim-resort, built in 1840-42 
in the pointed style of the 13th cent., is gorgeously decorated in the 
interior. The carved wooden pulpit, the gilded bronze altar, the 
choir-stalls, and pavement are noteworthy. 

The Monument to Joan of Arc, erected In 1892 (adm. 25 c), 
consists mainly of three elegant little Renaissance buildings, by 
Lisch, connected by a platform. The principal chapel, with a dome 
66 ft. high surmounted by a St. Michael, by Thomas, encloses a 
statue of Joan of ArCy by Barrias ; the other two have statues of 
8S. Catharine and Margaret (by Verlet and Ptfpin), whose voices 
are supposed to have first Inspired Joan. 

The *VUw from the platform embraces the city, the valley of 
the Seine for many miles above and below Rouen, and in the dis- 
tance the verdant hills of Normandy. 

CantBleu, picturesquely situated on the road to Le Havre, 41/2 M. to the 
W. of Rouen, has a di&teau built by Mansart. About 2 M. farther on is 
St. Mariin-de-Boieherville, with the magnificent ruined Ahhey of Bt. Oeorge*- 
de-Boief^ervilte, dating from the ll-13th centuries. The church is still in 
tolerable preservation. The chapter-house, built about 1160, was added 
to in the 17th century. 

A pleasant steamboat-excursion may be taken to La Bouille, a small 
but busy town, 12Vt M. below Bouen, see p. 140. 

Fbom Roubn to Lb Havbb bt the Sbiwb, about 80 M., steamboat every 
second day from June 1st to Sept. SOth, sometimes two days running, in 
6-7 hrs.) fare 6 fr.. 4fr.; deck-saloon or patserelle (recommended), 8fr.; 
return-ticket available by railway in one direction and valid for three 
days, 13 fr. 10 c., 9 fr., 7 fr. 50 c; restaurant on board, d^j. 4, D. 5 fr., 
incl. wine. This trip is recommended in fine weather, at least as far as 
Caudebec (p. 146) \ an extra wrap, to wear on board, is advisable. The 
steamers start from the Pont Bo'ieldieu (enquiry-office close by, in the Quai 
de la Bourse), and passengers may embark or disembark in small boats 
^ e. ; 25 c. each for a party) on giving previous notice, at La BouiUe (see 
above), Duckrir^ Jumiigee (p. 146), OverbaviUe-la-MailUraye, Caudebee (p. 146), 
VUUquier(p. 146), and QuiUeb9t{f (Tancarville ; p. 146). Honfleur (p. 1^5) is 
ni longer called at by the steamers from Bouen. Le Havre (Quai l^otre- 
Darne), see p. 140. 

Fbom Bodbn to OaLftANs, vii Elbrup, Dbbux, and Ghabtbes, 144 H., 
railway in 6«/«-8»/« hrs. (fares 25 tt. 30, 17 fr. 65, 11 fr. 55 c). To Elbeuf, 
14'/? M., railway in V2-V4 hr. (fares 2 fr., 1 fr. 40, 80 c). The trains start 

140 Route 18. ELBEUF. 

from tbe Gare d'Orleans (p. 128), and follow the left bank of the Seine, at some 
distance from the river. — 2 M. PetU-Qftevilly ; S^/z M. Grand-QueinUy. 5^h V. 
Petit' Couronne^ with Corneille^s dwelling-house (comp. p. 135), now a museum 
fadm. 104). — 9V2 M. La Bouille-Moulinectux. The train next traverses 
three tunnels and a viaduct, and once more skirts the left hank of the river. 

UVa M. Elbeuf iOrand-Hdtel, Place de rHdtel-de-Ville, d^j. 2»/» fr., 
good; ffdt. de VUhivert, B,ue de la Barriere 55), a cloth-manufacturing town 
with 18.729 inhab., on the left bank of the Seine. The churches of St. Jean^ 
near the Place de la Mairie, and St. Etienne, about "A M. to the S.W., both 
dating from the Renaissance period, contain good stained glass of the 
16th century. The Gare d'Elbeuf-St-Aubin (p. 167) lies on the right bank 
of the Seine, about IV2 M. from the Gare d'Elbeuf-Ville (for Bonen, 
Chartres, and Orleans), on the opposite bank. — Branch-lines from the 
Gare St. Avbin to (5Vs M.) Oinel (p. 122) and to (5V3 M.) La Londe. Omnibus 
(2 fr.) to (UVs M.) Le Jfeubourg (p. 168). Motor omnibus (4 fr. 30, return 
7 fr. 60 c.) twice daily to (2 hrs.) Pont-Audemer (p. 168). 

Beyond (21 M.) Tostes the line enters the Forit de Louviere^ and beyond 
(251/2 M.) St'Oermain^de-Louviers the £ure is crossed. — 26i/« M. Louviers 
(MotUon d* Argent^ R. from 2, D. 3 fr. ; Orand Cerf)^ a cloth-manufacturing 
town with 10,302 inhab., is situated on the Eure. The Gotbic church of Notre 
Dame has a magnificent S. portal of 1494. Branch to St. Pierre-du-Vauvrajfy 
see p. 123. — Between Louviers and Dreux the railway follows the valley 
of the Eure, which presents no striking scenery. From (30 M.) Acqvigny 
a line runs to Evreux (p. 167) \ and from (44V2 M.) Pacy-sur-Eure (Lion 
d'Or) another runs to Vernon (p. 123). — 51 1/2 H. Btieil is also a station on 
the line teom Gherbourg to Paris (p. 169). 541/2 M. Ivry-la-Bataille, famous 
for the victory gained in 1590 by Henri IV over the League, celebrated 
by Macaulay in a stirring lay. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of a 
castle and some remains of an abbey of the 11th century. — 57 M. Ety- 
Anet (Hdt. de Diane, at Anet). The famous Chdteau d^Anei (open Sun. 
& Thurs. 2-5), 1 M. to the S.E., was built in 1548-1552 for Diana of Poitiers 
by Philibert Delorme at the command of Henri II. Only a few remains 
of the original building are preserved, including the chapel, which still 
retains some sculptures by Jean Goujon and a marble mosaic. There is also 
a second chapel built by Diana, in which she was buried, but her monu- 
ment is destroyed. — 59V2 M. Croih-Sorel. At St. Roch^ on the opposite bank 
of the Eure, is the large paper-mill of the firm Firmin-Didot of Paris. — 
65 M. St. Oeorgee-Motel. Branch to Evreux (p. 168). — 72 M. Breax (Bwfet), 
sfte p. 183. — The line now ascends the valley of the Blaise. — 97 M. 
Ohartres (Buffet)^ see p. 211. — Traversing the level plains of the Beauee 
(p. 281), our line intersects the railway from Paris to Vendome and Tours 
(see p. 284) at (113 M.) Vovef. It also crosses the Kogent-le-Rotrou and Orleans 
line (see p. 215) at (129 M.) Paiay^ where Joan of Arc and Dunois overthrew 
the English in 1420, and which was the scene of obstinate contests 
between the French and the Bavarians in 1870. — 144 M. Orliant^ see p. 287. 

From Rouen to Amieng^ see p. 81 ; to and from London via Le Havre 
and Southampton, see pp. 146, 145, xiii. 

19. From Le Havre to Paris vi& Rouen. 

From Le Havre to Paris, 142V2 M., Railwat in 3V2-7V« brs. (fares 
25 fr. 55, 17 fr. 25, 11 fr. 25 c); to Bouen, see pp. 145, 146. - From Lon- 
don (Southampton) to Le Havre^ see p. xiii. 

Le Havre. — Hotels. "GB.-Hdx. Fkasoati (PI. a \ B, 4), Rue du Perrey 1 , 
with a terrace commanding the sea, 170 R. ^om 6, B. IVt, d^j. 5, D. 6, 
pens, from 12, omn. 1 fr., of the first class. — Hdx. Continental (PI. b; 
C,4), Chauss^e des Etats-Unis 13, opposite the Jetde, R. from 6, B. l>/f, 
d^j. 4, D. 5, pens, from 13, omn. 1 fr. — GR.-Hdr. db Normandib (PI. e; 
0,3), Rue de Paris 106-108, 100 R. from 4, B. li/s, d^j. 2»/2, D. SVe, pens, 
from 10, omn. 1 Ir., guud^ Gk.-HOx. Modkun£, Boul. de Strasbourg 81, new, 

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LE HAVRK. 19. RouU. 141 

R. from 4, B. 1, d^j. or D, 3, pens, from 11 fr. 5 Hot. Tobtoni (PI. e? C, 3), 
Place Gambetta 1-5, with caf6 (see below), B. from 8, d<).3, D. 4, pens. 
8 fr. ; Ds BoBDBAUX (PI. d *, C, 3). Place Gambetta 17, B. from 4, B. IV4, 
d^j. S^/f, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr.^ d'Angletbbbk (PI. f; G, 2), Rue 
de Paris 124-126, K. from 3, B. IVs, ddj. 3, D. SVs, pens, from 91/2 fr.; 
Tebminus, Cours de la R^publique 23, R. from 31/2, B. 1, d^j. 2V2, D. 3, 
pens, from 8V2 fr. ; de Kussik (hdtel - meubld ^ PI. c, C, 3), Rue de Bor- 
deaux 42, R. from 3, B. s/4 fr. ; dbs Abmes-db-la-Villb-du-Havrb (PI. k ; 
C, 4), Rue d'Estimauville 2T-29, R. from 3, B. IV4, d^j. 3V2, I>. 31/2, pens, 
from 10, omn. 1 fr.; des K&gociamts (PI. 1; C, 3), Rue Comeille 3-5, 
R. 2Vt-3, B. 1, d^j. 3. D. 3V«, pens. 8V2-9» omn. V« fr-i de L'AmBACTfi 
ET de Paris (PL i ; C, 4), Grand-t^uai, R. from 3, d^j. 3, D. 3V« fr. ; NonvEL- 
HoTEL, Rue de Paris 82, H. from 2V2, B. 1, d6j. 2«/2, D. 3, pens, from 
8V3 fr. i Pabisibn, opposite the station, R. from 2, d^j. 21/2, 1>. 8 fr. 

Restaurants. At the above-mentioned hotels {Frcucati and Tortoni the 
best); also, Hdt.-Restaurant du Plat-d^Arg^t^ Place Richelieu, dej. 1^/4, D. 
2V4 fr. 

Oafes. Tortoni (see above ; band in the evening), du ThMtre^ des Fteura^ 
and others in the Place Gambetta; Frcueati (see p. 140); Orand-Ca/6 Inter- 
national^ Cafi Quillaume-Tell^ Place de rH6tel-de-Ville; Cafi de Faris, 
Place Richelieu. 

Cabs. In the town, per drive 1 fr. 25 c, per hr. 2 fr. (from 12-6 a.m. 
2 & 2Vs fr.); on the heights as far as the octroi-limits, per drive 1^4, per hr. 
2V4 fr. (at night 21/2 and 3 fr.) ; to Ste. Adresse (Le Carreau), per drive 
iV4, per hr. 2V4 fr. (3 fr. at night). Trunks, 20, 30, or 50 c. 

Electric Tramways. 1. From the JeUe[(Fl. B, G, 4) to OravUle (p. 145), 
via the Hue de Paris, the Hotel de Ville, the Rue Thiers, and the Rond-Point 
(comp. PI. G, 1). — 2. From the JeUe to the Station (PI. F, 2), via the Rues 
Aug.-Kormand, Gustav^-Cazavan, and de Bordeaux, the Place Gambetta, 
and Quai d'Orl^ns. — 3. From the Jetie to La Hive (comp. PI. A, 1 ; p. 145), 
via the Rue Auguste-Kormand and Boul. Maritime. — 4. From the H6tel 
de Ville (PI. C, 2) to La Hive, via the Boul. de Strasbourg and Boul. Mari- 
time. — 5. From the Rond Point (comp. PI. G, 1) to Ste. Adreae (comp. 
PI. A, 1), vi& the Cours de la R^publique, the Station, Boul. de Strasbourg, 
Hdtel de Ville, Rue St. Roch, and Rue d'Etretat. ~ 6. From the StaHon 
(PI. F, 2) to Sanvic and BUville (comp. PI. A, 1), via the Boul. de Strasbourg, 
Boul. Maritime, Rue Guillemard, etc. — 7. From the Orand-Quai (PI. C, 4) 
to the Grand* Bassins (Fl. G, 5), via the Rue de Paris, Hdtel de Ville, Boul. 
de Strasbourg, the Station, Rue LafQtte, etc. — 8. From the Hdtel de Ville 
(PI. 0, 2) to the Abattoiri and the ChanHert de la MidUerranie (near the 
Seine), via the Rue LafEtte. — 9. From the Boul. Amirat-Mouchex (K. of 
Place Amiral-Courbet ; PI. G, 4) to Sanvic (comp. PI. 0, 1), via the Rue 
Bellot, the quays, Rues de Bordeaux, de Metz, de MontiviUiers, etc. — 10. 
From the Place Thiert (PI. D, 1) to Notre Dame (PI. 0, 4), via the Rue du 
Champ-de-Foir, the Bassin de la Barre, and the Rue Faidherbe. — 11. From 
the Place Gambetta (PI. C, 3) to the Cimetiire Ste. Marie (comp. PI. C, 1; 
p. 145), vi& the Rue de Paris, Hdtel de Ville, Boul. de Strasbourg, Rue 
de Meu, Rue de Montivllliers, etc. — Fares: 1st d. 15 c., 2nd cl. 10 c, 
within Uie town, 5 c. extra with ^correspondance*; outside the town, 10 c. 
or 5 c. extra. 

From the Jetie (PI. C, 4) to Montivilliert (comp. PI. G, 1; p. 149), via 
the Boul. Frangois-Premier, Hdtel de Ville, Rue Jules^Lecesne, Cours de la 
H^publique, Rue Demi doff, Graville (p. 145). and Harjteur (p. 145; golf- 
course); fares 75 or 50 c, return 1 fr. 20 or 80 c. 

Cable Railways. FuniciOaire de la COte, from the Rue Gustave-Flau- 
bert 55bis (PI. D, 1), to the Rue F^Ux-Faure 44 bis ; every 5 min., fare 10c. — 
Funiculaire Ste. jfarie, from the Rue de Kormandie, near the end of the 
Cours de la R^publique (PI. G, 1), to the Cimeti6re Ste. Marie (p. 145). 

Steamboats. From the Grand- Quai to Honfieur (p. 145) twice or thrice 
a day (fares 2 fr., 1 fr. 20, 70 c). From the Quai Kotre-Dame to Rown 
(see p. 139). From the Grand-Quai to Trouvilie (p. 152), thrice daily, in 
ca. V4 hr. (fares 3 fr. 26, 1 fr. 70, 90 c.) •, to Caen (p. 169), daily, in 3-4 hrs. 


142 Houte 19. LE HAVRE. Practical Notes. 

(farea 6 £r. 00, 3 fr. 50 c, return ticket 7, 6 ft.). From the Qa&i d'Anvers 
to 8L Malo (p. 194; returning vii St. Brieae, p. 224), weekly, in 12Vs hrs. 
(fares 12V2, 10, 8 fr., cabine de luxe 20 fr.); to Cherbourg (p. 158), once 
or twice a week, in 7-8 hrs. (Cares 12, 10, 8 fr.). From the Quai de Ham- 
bourg to Morlaix (p. 226), every Sat., in 15 hrs. (fares 25, 16, 10 fr.). — 
Steamers also from the Grand-Quai to Southampton (London) and from the 
Bassin de TEure to New York (every Sat.), etc., see p. xiii. 

Porters (Cotnmiteionnaire*) meet the boats at the various quays ; landing 
or embarking a trunk 10 c; trunk from the quay to the station, 1 fr., 
other packages 50 c. 

OmnibuB to Etretat (p. 151) twice daily in 3-3 Vs hrs., starting from the 
Place du Vieux-Harch^ 17 <& 23 (PI. C, 4; fares 3 fr. 60, 2 fr. 10 c); 
to Bt. Romain daily (fare 1 fr. 25 c). — Motor Omnibuses. From the 
Southampton steamer and from Quai d'Orleans 7 to Etretat (see p. 162). 
From Quai d'Orleans 7 to Font-Audemtr (p. 168), four times diuly via 
TancarviUe (p. 146) or St. Romain^ Lillehonne (p. 146), and Port Jir6n,e {Quille 
htuf; p. 139), in 3'/« bra. (fare 4V4 fr., ferry extra, return ticket 9 fr.). 

Post A Telegraph Office (PI. C, D, 2), Boul. de Strasbourg 106. — 
Branch Office, Bue de Paris 1. 

Baths. Sea Baths: Frtucali, Bue du Perrey 1, incl. costume and towel 
60 c.; ladies, 50c., with costume 1 fr.; guide-baigneur 50 c.; less for sub- 
scribers. — Fresh Water Baths : Baint d^Ingouville^ Bue Ernest-Renan 6 ; 
Bains St. Frangoi*, Bue du Grand-Croissant 3. 

Theatres. Orand-TMdtre^ Place Gambetta; Thidtre- Cirque^ Boul . de Stras- 
bourg 155. — Caf^-Congrrt : Foliee-Bergkrt (PI. B, 3), Bue Lemaitre 54. >- 
Casinos. At the Hdtel Frateati; adm. 1 fr. ; subscription for the season 
dOfr. Casino Marie- Christine^ at Ste. Adresse (p. 145); adm. 1 fr. 

Bankers. Banque de France (PI. G, D, 1, 2), Bue Thiers 22; Cridit 
Lyonnais, Place de THdtel-de-Ville 24; Soditi Gin4rale, Bue de la Bourse 27 
and Place Carnot 2-4. 

British Consul - General, Sorry L. Churchill, Rue Edousrd- Larue 6; 
vice-consul, (7. D. Wallis. — American Consul, Alphonse Ocmlin^ Place Gam- 
betta 23; vice-consul, /. F. Beecher. — Lloyd's Agent, J. S. Rowelly Place 
Gambetta 23. 

English Church, Rue de Mexico 54 (PI. D, E, 2); services at 10.80 and 
4.30. Chaplain, Ven. WMlock Fendavis, M. A.. Rue Marsadow 3. — Wuleyan 
Methodist Chapel, Place Gambetta 21 (PI. 0,3); services at 11.15 and 6.30^ 
ministers. Rev, A. S. Hocking and P. EUenberger. — Mission to Seamen, Quai 
d'Orleans 89. 

Le Havre , formerly called Havre - d« - Ordee ft-om a chapel of 
Notre-Dame-de-Grdce founded by Louis XII. in 1509, Is a hand- 
some town with broad streets, but it contains few special points 
of interest. Its situation at the mouth of the Seine is extremely 
advantageous, and, next to Marseilles, it is the most important sea- 
port in France (132,430 inhab.). The buildings and the commercial 
prosperity of the town, which is mainly derived from its ship-buUding 
yards and sugar-reflneries, are of very recent origin. 

The importance of Le Havre dates from the reign of Francis I., who 
fortified it in 1516 and endeavoured to make it a harbour of the first rank, 
thence to carry out his naval schemes against England. In 1545 he assembled 
here 176 sail, the attack of which on the Isle of Wight was, however, 
repulsed. In 1562 Le Havre was occupied by English troops lor a short 
time. Under Richelieu and Colbert the prosperity of the town rapidly 
increased, and in 1694 the English fleet made a determined but unsuccess- 
ful attack on the new rival of English commerce. 

The Rub db Pabis (PI. C, 2-4), beginning at the W. end of the 
Grand- Quai, where passengers from England disembark, and inter- 
secting the town from S. to N., is the centre of traffic. At its S. end 


zed by Google 

MueSe. LE HAVRE. 19. Rovte. 143 

^ands the Mutie (PI. 0, 4), built in 1845 (open on Sun. and Thurs., 
10 to 4r, in winter; on Snn., Mon., Tnes., & Thurs., 10-5.30, in 
summer; and on other days on application to the concierge^ 3rd dooi 
on the left). 

On the Ground Floor are scnlptorea: Mathurin Moreau, The ejdles) 
St. Marceaux,, Tomb of F^lix Faure (at Pere-Lachaise) \ Mvlot^ Armida \ 
DUterle^ The shoot; Bourdelle, Family tragedy ^ Deloyt^ Fr^d^ric Lemaitre ) 
Charpentier, The improviaatore 5 Bonnaffi^ Terpsichore j Samon^ Pieta; 
Oudin6^ Sleeping Psyche^ also some busts and bas-reliefs. — The Basehkst 
contains a small archaeological collection. — In the Entresol are en- 
gravings and drawings. — Staxrcasb. Paintings : 229. Roll^ Inundation at 
Toulouse in IbTti; tM5. A. Yvon^ Christ expelling the money-changers; 
27. ReiMufy Brooklyn Bridge. 

First Floor. Grand Salon, from right to left: 22. Andrea del Scuio (?)« 
Holy Family; 23. SoUmenaj Simon Magus; 7. Caravaggio, Portrait; 18. Ovido 
RenL St. Catharine; 6. BroiuinOy Cosimo de' Medici; no number, Perugino^ 
St. Margaret. — Ko nambers, C. Maratta^ Presentation in the temple, Zampieri^ 
St. Cecilia; 16. Manfredi^ The Prodigal Son; 14. Ouardi, Piazza of St. Mark 
at Venice; 13. Qiordano^ Cato of Utica; no number, iV«ma(<ccto, Adam and 
Eve; 25. TiepotOy Sketch for a ceiling i 6. Alhri(7)y Youthful goldsmith; 
no number, Manfredi^ Singing lesson; 49. Van Dyckil)^ St. Sebastian; no 
number, Van Balen the Elder ^ Beturn from the chase ; 54. HuyemoMi Land- 
scape; no number, Van Artoi* and Teniert, Landscape; 53, 52. A. Oryf 
the YoungeTy Bunting -scenes; 67. Tenters i?u Younger ^ Card-players; 55. 
Hvyemanty Landscape; no number, P. BrU^ Landscape with figures; 82. M, 
d*JJondecoetery Dog and game. -— 79. A. Cuyp, Litile girl leading a goat; 
97-99. Van de Velde the Younger^ Sea-pieces; 86. If. J/oei, Portrait of an 
admiral ; 84. Jongkind, Dawn ; 1&5. Fragonardj Head of a youth; no number, 
Rigaud^ Portrait; 128. aouet^ Portrait; 241. Ktm, Lot and his daughters (1747); 
no number, LargiUiire, Portrait; 146. Beeportee, Game and fruit (1706); 
181. Be La/oue^ Consecration of the Virgin. — 185. Largilliere^ Portrait of 
a sculptor; 132. T. Couture^ Prodigal Son; 251. Lipicie^ Old man reading 
a manuscript ; no number, Quirin^ Andromache; 226. H. 72o6er<, Conflagration 
at Rome; no numbers, T. Couture. Fool, i7snn«r. Recumbent woman; 'Iroyon^ 
238. Sheep, 239. Setting sun; 131. Covrbet, Deer-shed; 206. 205. Michelj 
Landscapes; no number, Le Orand^ Old woman of Brittany; 162. Odrieault^ 
Portrait; no .numbers, Chaplin^ Portrait, OMcaulty Head of a mastiff, JSmoi^, 
Landscape. — "So numbers, Boulanger^ Resignation, /. P. Laurent^ The 
interdict, Le Blant^ Capture of arms in Brittany. — Small Rooh at the 
other end: Pictures, drawings, faience. — Galerie Langevin, to the left: 
Modern pictures, coins, furniture, porcelain, enamels, etc. 

Farther up the Rue de Paris, on the right, is the church of 
Notre-Dame (PI. 0, 4), built in the 16th cent, in a style shewing 
the transition tiom. Gothic to Renaissance. The tower, formerly higher, 
was originally a fortified beacon. Organ-case of 1630. Modem 
stained-glass windows. 

In the Place du Vieux-March€ (PI. C, 4), to the right, a little farther 
on, is the former Palais de Justice, now containing an important Mueeum 
of Natural HUtory (open April-Sept, on Sun., Tues., ii Thurs. 10-5, in winter 
Sun. & Thurs. 10-4). 

We now cross the Place Oambetta (PI. 0, 3), which is bounded 
on the W. by the Grand-Thidtre and on the E. by the Basain du 
Commerce, and is embellished with statues, by David d'Angers, of 
Bemardin deSt, Pierre (1737-1814), author of *Paul and Virginia', 
to which the reliefs refer, and Casimir DelavignCj the dramatist 
(1798-1843), both natives of Le Havre. Thence we continue to follow 
the Rue de Paris to the fine Public Gardens (military band on Thurs. 

144 RouU 19. LE HAVRE. 

from 8.30 to 9.30 p.m.) in front of the Hdtel de VilU (PI. 0, 2), a 
noteworthy modem building in the Renaissance style. The hand- 
some Boulevard de Strasbourg^ which passes the H6tel de Yille, is 
nearly IV4 ^* long and traverses the town ftrom the sea on the W. to 
the railway-station (see helow) on the E. (tramway, see p. 141). 

In this street, to the W. of the Hdtel de Ville, is the Sqitare 8U Roch 
(PI. B, 2). with statues of Armida, by Mulot, and Rebecca, by Fabisch, and 
a small bronze bust of Jules Tellier (1863-89), the poet. A military band 
plays here on Sun. afternoons in summer. — At the W. end of the boulevard 
begins the N. mole of the new outer harbour (see below). The Boulevard 
Maritime leads hence to the right to Ste. Adresse (p. 145). 

We turn to the £. (right) at the H6tel de Yille, in order to reach 
the station. In the Boulevard de Strasbourg we pass the Sous-Pti- 
feature (PI. D, 2), on the left, fronting the Place Camot, on the 
S. side of which is the Exchange (PI. D,2, 3), a large erection 
(1878-80) in the Renaissance style, with six domes (open 9-12 and 
3-5.30). The S. facade of the Exchange faces the Place Jules-Ferry 
(PI. D, 3). Farther on, to the left, is the Falais de Justice (PI. E, 2), 
in a pseudo-classical style, and to the right are several Barracks, 
The Railway Station (PI. F, 2) is at the E. end of the boulevard. 

At Rue Ancelot 2bis is the Lpcie (PI. D, 1), containing also the Library 
(62,200 vols.-, 49U MSS.), open daily 9-12, 2-5, and 8-10 (closed on Sun. A 
holidays and from Aug. 15th to Sept. 30th). 

The extensive Harbour and Docks (PI. A-G, 2-5) deserve a visit. 
Apart from the outer harbours the docks have a water-area of about 
190 acres and about 8 M. of quays. 

The port includes the immense JTev AveuU-Port^ or outer harbour, the 
Old AvatU-Fort^ on the K. side of which is the Grand- Quai, and 10 Docis 
with 16 locks or sluices (comp. the Plan). A good view of the outer 
harbours (most interesting at high tide) is obtained from the Houvelle Jetie 
(PI. B, 5), which is at all times a favourite promenade. To the right are 
the Grand-Hotel Frascati (p. 140), with a casino and bathing-establishment, 
the batteries defending the entrance to the harbour, the new N. mole (see 
below), and the clififs of Ste. Adresse (p. 145), with the two lighthouses of 
La H6ve (p. 145). To the 8. E., beyond the busy mouth of the Seine, ap- 
pears Villtrville (p. 154), with Honfleur (p. 145) to the left and Trouville 
and Deauville (pp. 152, 154) to the right. — The Nouvd Avant-Port (PI. 
A, B, 3-5), begun in 1896, is protected by a H. mole beginning at the end 
of the Boulevard de Strasbourg (see above) and by a S. mole which is a 
prolongation of the embankment between the embouchure of the Seine 
and the harboar proper. — The oldest dock, and also one of the smallest, 
is the Batsin du Roi. excavated in 1669. The largest is the *Bas$in de 
VEure (PL £, F, 3, 4, 5), upwards of 70 acres in area, constructed in 1846- 
1856. where the huge Transatlantic steamers lie. The Dock Warehoiuet to 
the K.E. of this dock cover, with their various dependencies, an area of 
57 acres. The Bcusin de la Ciiadelle occupies the site of a citadel constructed 
by Charles IX. The Caned de Tancarville^ which eaters the Bassin de I'Eure 
to the N. of the Bassin Bellot. is intended to connect the Seine directly 
with the harbour, and to enable ships to avoid the dangers of the ^barre', 
or tidal wave in the estuary. The canal, which is named from the castle 
mentioned at p. 146, is 15 M. long, lUO ft. wide, and 14 ft. deep. 

A good view of the town may be enjoyed from the CSte d*Jngouville^ 
the cable-railway to which (p. 141) is reached via the Rue and Place Thiers. 
Just before the Place we pass the Ckureh of St. Michel (PI. C. 1), in the 
Renaissance style, with stained glass by Duhamel-Marette. — The Eue de 
ta Cote, in which the cable-railway ends, extends to the W. to (*/s U.) 
He. Adresse (p. 145), by which we may descend. OoOqIp 

HONFLEUR. 19, Route, 145 

The *View is apedally fine at funset and at night when the town and 
harhoor are lit up. Unfortunately, however, it is much hindered hy the 
numerous villas and garden-walls. — On the E. the Hue de la Gdte is 
continued hy the Bue de TAhbaye (IV4 M.), past the Fort de Toumewitte and 
the Grcmd Oimetlire 8te. Marie, whence we may descend towards the Cours 
de la R^publique, by the Funieulaire Ste. Marie (p. 141) or by the Bue du 
G^n^ral-Bouelles . 

Ste. Adresse {H6t. Marie-CkrifU^e, B. & B. only: Gr,-ff6t. des Pharea; Cafi- 
ReBtauratUFradier, on the beach), on the diff, 2VsM. to theK.W. of Le Havre, 
is much frequented for sea-bathing (bath with costume SO-75 c.)* It may be 
reached by tramway (Ko. 6; p. 141), or on foot Yi& the Boul. Maritime, be- 

? Inning at the W. end of the Boul. de Strasbourg (PI. A, 2). The Ccuino (adm. 
fr.) was formerly the villa of the late Queen Maria Christina of Spain. The 
Fharet de la Hh>e, commanding a magnificent view, may be reached in 
15-20 min. from Ste. Adresse. About halfway up is a sugarloaf monument 
to General L^ivre-Deanouettee (1773-1822), who perished by shipwreck. It 
is dangerous to approach the crumbling edge of the clifiiB at the top. 

Fbom Lb Havbb to Hohflbub, steamer from the Grand-Quai, twice or 
thrice daily in »/« hr. (fares 2 fr., 1 fr. 20, 76 c). — Honfleur (Cheital Blane, 
Quai Beaulieu, B. from 3, d^j. 2V2, I>. 3 fr.{ du Dauphin, Bue du Dauphin; 
Ferme-St'Simion, V2 M. from the quay, pens. 10 fr., closed in winter; 
de la Renaissance, du Havre, both on the Cdte de GrEce. — British Vice- 
Consul, /. R. D. Charleason; American (Consular Agent, John N. Bourke), 
a seaport town with 9461 inhab., picturesquely situated on the left bank 
and at the mouth of the Seine, has declined since the foundation of Le Havre, 
but its harbour has recently been enlarged and improved. Honfleur exports 
large quantities of eggs, poultry, vegetables, and fruit to England. 

The station is situated near the harbour. The Hdtel de Yille,, containing 
a small Musie, and the Lieuienance, with a portal of the 16th cent., stand 
near the outer harbour. The curious timber Church of St. Catharine, dating 
from the end of the 16th cent., consists of two parallel naves with aisles. 
It contains a good oi^an-loft, a painting of Christ in Oethsemane by /. Jor- 
detmu, and a Bearing of the Cross by Eraamua Qmllin (in the nave). 
The 06te de Ordee, to the W. of the harbour, is so named from a pil- 
grimage-chapel much resorted to by sailors. It commands a fine view of 
the mouth of the Seine; and the plateau forms an agreeable and shaded 
promenade. Below, on the road to Trouville, is a Sea-bathing Eatabliahment ' 
but the b^ach is muddy and little frequented. — A motor-omnibus leave 
the Cheval Blanc hourly in the season for (10 M.) Trouville (60 min. ; fare 
2 fr. 10 c). Boute, see p. 154. 

From Le Havre to Etretat, Ficamp, and Dieppe by railway, see B.20^ 
to Etretat by road (public vehicles, p. 142), see p. 162. 

From Le Havre to Bonen. 

64V3 M. Bailwat in 1-2V4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 40, 6fr. 95, 4 fr. 56 c.). 

On quitting Le Havre we pass (I74 M.) GravilU-Ste-Honorine 
(13,273 inhab.), a kind of suburb of Le Havre, with Its interest- 
ing Norman church of the 11 -13th cent., to the left. — 3^2 ^' 
Hdrfleur (H6t, des Armes), with 3118 inhab. and a golf-course, 
once an important seaport. Its old harbour has been filled up by 
deposits of the Lezarde; the new harbour, about i/2 M. away, is 
connected with the Canal de Tancarville (p. 144). In 1416 the town 
was taken by Henry V. of England, to whom the foundation of the 
fine Gothic Church Is attributed. Railway to Dieppe (see pp. 149-147). 

From (I6V2M.) Briauti'Beuzeville (Buffet; Railway Hotel) a line 
runs to Les Ifs (p. 148 j Fecamp, Etretat) and another to Lillebonne. 

Fkom BBftAUTA-BKUZsviLLs TO LiLLBBONMB, 8^2 M., railway in 20-35 min. 
(fares 1 fr., 70 c., 40 c). — SVa M. Bolhee (Hot. de Fecamp), a prettily situated 

Babdbkbr*s Northern France. 6th Edit. 10 ^ 

146 Route 19. CAUDEBEC. 

industrial town, with 11,688 inhaMtanta. — The church of (6Vs M.) Oruehet- 
U'Valcuit contains some beautiful choir-stalls. The andent abbey dates from 
the 12-17th centuries. ^ 87s M. Lillebonne (H6t. du Commerce: de Frcmee)^ 
a small town (6180 inhab.) on the site of Juliobona , the capital of the 
Galetes (Pays de Caux), contains a well-preserved 1%eatre and numerous 
other relics of Boman times. The ruined Caetle belonged to William the 
Conqueror, who here proposed to his nobles the conquest of England. — 
Motor-omnibus from Llllebanne to Le Spvre (p. 140>fottr times daily, twice 
Ti& (7 M.) the imposing ruined Castle of Tanearviile (mainly 18th cent.), 
situated on a rock rising 166 ft. above the Seine. 

1972 M. Bolbee-Nointot, 2 M. to the N. of Bolbec (see p. 146; 
omn. 72 fr')' 

AtQZl U.)AUouviUe'Bellefo88e is a huge oak, said to be 800 years 
old, with two chapels in its hollow trunk. — 31 M. Yvetot (H6t, det 
Victoire$; du Chemin-de'Fer, good], a manufacturing place (7133 
inhab.), the ancient counts or soi-disants kings of which are playfully 
described by B^ranger. 

Motor omnibuses from the Rue Carnot to Caudebec (see below; 4 times 
daily in yzhr.) and LiHebonne (?ee above; twice daily in IVahr.; fare 2 fr. 
80 c.)-, to Canv (p. 147) ihrice daily in IV4 hr. (fare 2V4 fr.). — Diligence 
from the Hue Pasteur to Caudebec^ see below. 

From (36 M.) Mottevitle railways run viS, St. Vaatl-BoavilU to 
St. VaUry-en-Caux (p. 149; 19V2 M.), and vi4 CUres (l^l/j M.), 
on the line from Dieppe to Rouen (p. 122), to Montirolier-Buchy 
(26 M.), on the line from Rouen to Amiens (p. 31). 

43 M. Pavilly (Hot. de Tlmage-St-Pierre), with 3178 inhabitants. 
— 44 M.Barentin (H6U du Orand-St-Pierre), a manufacturing town 
with 6039 inhab., possesses a fine new Romanesque church. 

Fbom Barbntin to Caudbbbc, 18 M., railway in 1 hr. (fares 8 fr. 96, 
2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 50 c). — About 2 M. to the S. of (12 M.) rainviUe-JumUgei^ 
on a peninsula of the winding Seine, is the village of Jumieges (B&tel 
de VAbbaye)^ a steamboat station (p. 189). The * Abbey ^\ihe majestic and 
picturesque ruins of which rise near the village, was founded in 664 and 
was not destroyed till 1790 (adm. daUy 11 to 6; V2 fr.). — iVh M. St. Wan- 
dfille also retains the extensive ruins of a magniBcent Abbey^ founded in the 
7th cent.; tbe buildings have been rented by M. Htiurice Maeterlinck, the 
Belgian poet (adm. Mon. A Thurs.). — 18 M. Oaudebeo-en«>Oaux (H6t. de 
la Marine.^ B. 2-5, d^j. or D. 8 fr., good; H6t. du Havre) y a small town with 
many quaint old bouses, was formerly the capital of the Pape de Caux. 
and played a considerable part in the wars between the Knglish and 
French. It was captured in 1419 by the former under Tidbot and 
Warwick. The beautiful Church combines the Gothic and Renaissance 
styles; the magniGcent tower is 178 ft. high. The W. portal, the balu- 
strades on the top. formed of Gothic letters, the triple floral crown of Uie 
spire, and the stained glass are noteworthy. Caudebec retains much of 
its medieeval quaintness. It is also a steamboat-station (p. 1B9); motor- 
omnibus to Tvetotvand to Lillebonne, see above; diligence toT^/sM. Yvetot 
(see above) thrice daily in IV4 br. (fare 1 fr.). — Pleasant expeditions may 
be made to (IV4 M.) 8te. Oertrude^ with a fine 16ih cent, church, and along 
the banks of the Seine to Villequier (p. 139), a fishing-village about 3 M. 
below Caudebec. 

The train quits the fertile table-land of the Pays de Caux and runs 
along the viaduct of Bareniin, 545 yds. in length, and 110 ft. above 
the level of the valley. Beyond a tunnel, nearly I72 M. in length, 
it reaches (49 M.) Malaunay^ where the Dieppe line diverges. From 
this poiut to (C41/2 M.) Rouen and Paris, see pp^22-125. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 


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20. From Dieppe to Le Havre and Etretat. 

Watering-Flaoes between Dieppe and Le Havre. 

a. From Dieppe to Le Hayre. 

72 M. Railway in 4Vr5V4 hra. (fares 13 fr. 10, 8 fr. 75, 6 fr. 70 c). 
— To Fecamp, W/t M. in %2i/ihrB. (fares 8 fr. 6, 6 fr. 46, S fr. 66 c). 

Dieppe, see p. 119. — "We follow the Rouen line until beyond 
tbe first tunnel (p. 122), then cross the Scie, and proceed to the W., 
passing several small stations. — 25^2 M. 8t, Vaast-Boavillej 
junction for a line to Rouen vil Mottevllle (p. 146). To 8t. Vatery- 
en^Caux, see p. 149. — 30 M. Cany (B6t, du Commerce; de France) 
is a small town on the right bank of the Durdent, whence diligences 
run to Veulettes and Les Petites' Dalles (p. 150) and a motor-omni- 
bus to Yvetot (p. 146). — 38 M. Valmont (H6t. du Commerce; de 
France) has an ancient feudal castle (restored in the 16th cent) 
and a beautiful ruined Abbey (12th cent.) with old monuments. 

44^2 ^* Fioamp. — Hotels. Gb.-H6t. dss Bains et t>s Losdbks 
(PI. a; B, 3), Bool, de^ Bains, open during the season, R. fromi, B. IVs, 
d^). 3, D. 4, pens, from 8fr.; Hdr. de la Plaob (PI. c; B, 8), Rue des 
Corderies} d^Anolbtebbe (PI. b*, B, 3), same street, open June Ist-Sept. 80th, 
R. from 3. B. 1, d^j. 3, D. 3V2, pens, from 9, omn. V« ^'m POOd: dd 
Chabiot-d^Ob (PI. d; D, 4), Place Thiers, R. from 8, B. 1, d^j. 2»/t, D. 3, 
pens, from 9V« fr.; Cancht (PJ. e^ B, 4), Place Thiers, pens, from 7 fr.; 
DU Obavd-Cebf, near the abbey, peas. 6 fr. 

Sea-Baths. Bath with bathing-box 75, with costume and linen i fr. 
20 c. ; no extra charge for services of *guide-baigneur\ — Oaaine. Admission 
before noon 26 c, afternoon 50 c. ; subscription, per week 11, fortnight 18, 
month 85 fr.; two pers., 18, 82, 54 fr.; etc. Admission to theatre (for 
non-subscribers) 1V», 2V«, & 3 fr. 

Tramway (July 16th-0ct. i5th). From the Casino vi& the Place Thiers 
to the Abbey Church ; fare 25 c. 

Omnibutet. To Etretat^ see p. 148; to Z^s /^7«s-i>a//Ss (11 M ., IV4 fr. *, 

see p. 150), thrice daily during the season ; to St. Pierre-en-Port (7V« H., 
V/t fr. ; see p. 150), twice daily ; to Yport (p. 151) and to Valmont C " ^ 
Post and Tele^aph Office (PI. D, 8), Avenue Oambetta 7. 

British Yioe-Oonsul, Alex. O. B. Bax. 

Ficamp is a town with 16,737 inhab., situated in a small valley 
running inland from the sea. The S. end of the town is about 1^4 ^> 
from the little harbour at the N. extremity of the vaUey. 

According to the legend the name is derived from Fiem CamptUy Afield 
of the fig-tree', from the fact that the sea washed up en the coast here the 
trunk of a fig-tree in which Joseph of Arimathea had placed the Precious 
Blood (see p. 148). Its position on the English channel and its possession 
of a tolerable harbour gave Fecamp a certain importance in the early history 
of Normandy and in tbe wars between England and France. Its ancient 
Benedictine abbey, founded by Duke Richard the Fearless about 990, is the 
only one of tbe famous monasteries of Normandy that stood to theN.E. of 
the Seine. Charles II. landed here in 1651 on his escape from England after 
the battle of Worcester. 

The Church of St, Etienne (Pi. E, 3), [to the left of the station, 
dates from the 16th century. The S. portal is flue) the facade and 
tower are modern. 

^^From the Place Thiers (PI. D, E, 4), the centre of the town, we 
follow the Rue Alexandre- Legros to the abbey. T)rb Abbey Church 


148 Route 20. FECAMP. 

(PI. E, F, 4), a most interesting relic dating principally from 1175- 
1225, conceals an interior of great beauty and grace under a some- 
what unattractive exterior. The central tower (13th cent.) is, 
however, stately though simple, and on the S. side is a fine portal 
of the 12th cent., restored in 1842. 

The iMTBBiOB is 418ft. long and 115 ft. wide. In the Nave is a fine 
modern carved oak pulpit. — The Choir contains stalls of 1748 and two 
altars overshadowed by an 18th cent, canopy. The two pillars in front 
of the choir bear the remains of a rood-loft of 1500. — The B. Trcmsetpt 
contains a curious group of painted statues, representing the Death of 
the Virgin, executed by a monk in 1519. Adjacent are some smaller groups 
of figures engaged In prayer and a ciborium of the 15th century. — The 
Chapeli of the Atnbvlaiory are embellished with handsome Benaissanoe 
balustrades and with arcades. In the 1st chapel to the right is the 
handsome door of the sacristy. The Srd chapel contains a Romanesque 
frieze, formed of 16 curious bas-reliefs, representing scenes from the lives 
of Christ and the Virgin, and a 17th cent, altar-screen in carved stone. In 
the 4th and 5th chapels are tombs of abbots of Fecamp. In the 6th or Lady 
Chapel are fine stained glass of the 13-16th cent., a carved wooden altar- 
screen of the 17th cent., and some beautiful wood-carving. The 7th chapel 
has a 16th cent. door. — Behind the high-altar is a marble ciborium ot 
the 16th cent., reputed to contain some of the ^Precious Blood' (see p. 147), 
which still attracts numerous pilgrims. — The N. Traruept contains a Calvary, 
a Holy Sepulchre, some carvings of scenes from the life of Christ, and 
an astronomical clock of 1667. 

The remains of the abbey, adjoining the N. side of the church, 
are now occupied by the H6tel de Ville (PI. E, F, 4), built in the 
17th century. The Muset Municipal in the interior, containing a gal- 
lery of pictures, is open on Sun., Mon., Thurs., & Sat., 2-5 (2-4 
in winter), on other days on application. There is also a small 
Public Library. 

No. 108 Rue Th^ag^ne-Boufart is the distillery of Binidictint 
(PI. (jj 3), a well-known liqueur, first made by the Benedictine 
monks. The handsome building, with a Renaissance tower, was 
rebuilt after a fire in 1892. Visitors are admitted daily 9-11 & 
1.30-5 (2-4 in winter; 26 c.) and are conducted by an employee 
(who expects a gratuity) to view the distillery (uninteresting), the 
handsome Salle des AbbiSy approached by a fine staircase, and the 
Music, a small collection of sculptures, furniture, curiosities, and 
works of art. 

The Bathing Establishment is situated on the broad shingly 
beach, at some distance from the harbour. The Casino (PI. A, 3, 4) 
stands near the cliff, to the left In front of the bbach are a terrace 
and a carriage-road, and above are situated several pretty chalets. 
The adjoining roads are, however, unattractive and the surroundings 
are featureless. — The Harbour (Pl.B-F,l-3) is one of the chief 
stations in France for deep-sea fishing-boats, and it also carries on 
trade in coal with England and in timber with the Baltic ports. 

From F&cak^ to Etrbtat, lOVa H., omnibus daily (Vf* fr.), viH 
(18/4 M.) St. Lionard and (4V2 M.) Froberville (p. 150). 

Beyond two tunnels we enter a wooded valley and then ascend 
to (49 M.) Les Ifs (Hotel and Buffet outside the station), ^iib. a fine 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

VEULES-LES-ROSES. 20, Route. 149 

chateau of the 16th century. To Etretat, see R. 20d; to Rouen, via 
Br^aut^-BeuzeYille, see pp. 145, 146. — 521/2 M. Ooderville; 65 M. 
EcrainvUle, — 57 M. Criquetot-l'Esnevalj 6 M. from Etretat hy road 
though 18 M. hy rail. 

66 V2 ^- Montivilliers (Hot. Fontaine), an industrial town (5492 
inhah.) on the Lezarde, is connected "with Le Havre by tramway 
(p. 141). It has an old Abbey Church of the 11th and 15th cent, 
and an interesting old Cemetery. — 63 M. Harfleur has another 
station on the main line to Rouen (p. 145). Thence to (72 M.) 
Le Havre (p. 140), see p. 145. 

b. From Dieppe to St. Valery-en-Caux and Veules. 

38 M. Railway to (33 M.) St. Valery in 1V3-3 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 5, 4 fr. 
75, 3 fr. 10 c). Omnibus four times a day from the station at St. Valery to 
(6 M.) Veules; fare 1 fr. There is also a Diligence thrice a week from 
Dieppe to Veules direct (15 M. in 3 hrs.; fare 2 fr). — From Paris viH Rouen 
and Motteville (p. 146) to St. Valery, 125 M., Railway in 4V4-7 hrs. (fares 
22 fr. 70, 15 fr. 35, 9fr. 95 c.). 

From Dieppe to (251/2 M.) St, Vaast-BosvUle, where carriages 
are changed, see p. 147. Farther on the sea appears on the left. 
■ — 291/2 M, Neville, a large village with an interesting church. 

381/2 M. St. Valery-en-Caux. — Hotels. DelaPaix, 60 r. from 3, 
pens, froift 8 fr., db la Plage, 60 R. from 3, pens, from 8 fr., both closed in 
winter ; Aiglk-d'Ob, 40 R. from 2%, pens. 9 fr. 60 c, des BainsIj d^j. 2V2 fr-, 
these two commercial*, obFeai^ce, de Pabis, pens, from 7 fr. 

Sea-Baths. Bath and bathing-hox 50 c., with costume, etc., 1 fr., ^gujide- 
baignenr* 40c. — Casino. Admission till 6 p. m. */<, later 1 fr.; subscrip- 
tion, per week 8, fortnight 15, month 25, season 40 fr.; for two pers., 15, 
26, ae, and 53 fr.; etc. 

8t, Valery-en-Caux, a town and bathing-resort with 3544 inhah., 
possesses a small harbour, in a hollow between two high cliffs. 
To the right of the station lies the old town, with a church of the 
15-16th centuries. The Couis de I'Est, opposite the station, leads 
to the Place de I'Hotel-de-Ville. Beyond the bridge, on the Quai 
du Havre, is the Maison de Henri IV (1540). The narrow Rue des 
Bains leads to the Casino, with its broad terrace and bathing-estab- 
lishment. The beach, as usual on this coast, has a border of shingle 
before the strip of firm sand used by the bathers. 

The omnibus -route from St. Valery to Veules passes the old 
town and crosses several pretty little valleys. The chateau of 
(21/2 ^0 Manneville dates from the 16th century. 

6 M. Venles-leB-BoseB. — Hotels. 6B.-HdT. des Bains et db la 
Plage (with the diligence-office), closed in winter, 120 B. at 3-5, pens. 
7-9 fr. ; des Toubellks, 50 R. at 2-4 , pens. 7-10 fr. — Sea-Baths 30 c, 
with costume and towels 50 c, *guide-baigneur' 30 c. — Casino. Per day 
V2, fortnight 7, month 13 fr. — Diligence to (15 M.) Dieppe, see above ; 
carriage 25-30 fr. Omnibus from ihe H6t. des Tourelles to (40min.; 1 fr.) 
Si. Pierre-U'Viger^ four times daily. 

Veules-Ua-Roaes, a large village in a pretty valley, is a pleasan' 
sea-batbing resort, and numerous handsome viUas have been built 


zed by Google 

150 Route 20. TEULETTES. 

overlooking the tiny beach, between two cliffs. A limpid stream, 
skirted by a shady walk, runs through the Tillage, and large quan- 
tities of water-cresses are grown near its curious source close to the 
road to St. Yalery. Yeules somewhat resembles Etretat (p. 161) in 
its general characteristics, but is considerably less pretending. 

c. From Dieppe to Veulettes. 
Let Petites-Salles. 
Railway to (30 M.) Cany in l»/4-2»/4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 50, 4 fr. 40, 2 fr. 
86 c). Diligence from Cany to (6 M.) Veulettes four times daily in the 
season (fare 1^/4 fr.) ; and also to Lei Petites-Dalles (see below). — Railway 
from Paris via Rouen .and Motteville (p. 146) to Cany, 122 M., in 4V4-7 hrs. 
(fares 22 fr. 15 c, 15 fr., 9 fr. TO c). 

From Dieppe to (30 M.) Cent/, see p. 147. 

The road to Veulettes follows the picturesque valley of the 
Durdent, towards the N. 2^2 M. Vitteflew; 3 M. FalueL The river 
enters the sea by means of a canal beneath the shingle to the right of 
the bridge over which the road runs. 

6 M, Vealettes. — Hotels. H6t. db la Plaqb, pens, from 7 fr. \ dks 
Bains, adjoining. — Sea-Baths 40 c, for subscribers to the casino 30 c, 
complete costume with 'peignoir' 60 c, 'guide-baigneur* 40 c. — Casino. 
Admission by day 80, in the evening or whole day 50 c. Subscription for 
a week 4, fortnight 7^/2, month 15, fr.; for two pers. 8, 15, and 22 fr.; 
for three persons 12, 20, and 27 fr. 

Veulettes itself is a small village, situated about ^2 M. from the 
sea, in a valley to the W. of the valley of the Durdent ; but the 
bathing-establishment and the villas perched on the cliffs form an 
agreeable summer-resort The shingle-strewn beach is very wide 
and is about ^/^ M. long. The environs are somewhat tame. 

Lcs Petites-Dalles is 5 M. to the 8.W. of Veulettes, and St. Valery 
(p. 149) iA about 6 M. to the N.E. No public conveyance to either. 

From Cany to Lks Petitbs -Dalles , 7^/2 M., diligence thrice daily 
In the season (see the 'Indicateur'); farelVz fr- Lm Petites-Dalles may be 
reached also from Fecamp (see p. 147). 

Lea Petitet-Salles (Qr,-H6t. des Bains et de la Plage^ open Hay 15th- 
Oct. 15th, 80 R. from 3, pens, from 7 fr.; Hdt. des Pavilions-^ Ledun) is 
a fishing-village, with a Casino and Bathing EstabHshment^ situated at the 
mouth of a small valley bounded by cliffs and rocks and affording various 
sheltered walks. 

The parallel valley, 1 M. to the W., is called the valley of Les Orandes 
Dalles (Hdt. de la Plage), and about IV4 H. farther on is the sea-bathing 
place of St. Pierre-en-Port (H6t. des Terrasses), V/2 M. from Fecamp (omn., 
see p. 147). 

d. From Dieppe to Etretat. 

m/itl. Railway in 2V4-3V8 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 30, 6 fr. 90, 4 fr. 50 c). — 
From Le Havre to EtreUt, 32V2M. in lV4-2Vjhrs. (fares 5 fr. 95 c, 4 fr., 2 fr. 
60 c); by road, see p. 162. — Railway from Paris to Etretat, vii Rouen and 
Brdaut^-Beuzeville, 143 M., in 4-6V2hrs. (fares 25 fr. 85, 17 fr. 50, 11 fr. 46 e.}. 

From Pieppe to (49 M.) Les Ifs , see pp. 147, 148. The line 
diverges to the left from that to Ftfcamp and Le Havre and runs 
towards the W. — 62 M. Froherville-Yport. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

ETRETAT. 20. Route. 151 

An omnibus (50 e.; oarr. 3-6 fr.) plies daily in the season to (2V2 M. 
to the K.W.) Yport (H6t. du Casino; Chicot; 0. Tougard; Loiael; Duboe)^ 
a considerable Tillage with a tidal hnrbour, and a sea-bathing establish- 
ment resembling that of Fecamp. About IV4 M. to the W. is Vaueottes- 
Mur Mer (H6r. Delebarre), another small bathing-place, with Vattetot-tur-Mer 
on the cliffs above. 

55 M. Les-Loges-VaucotUi'Sur-Merf 2^/4 M. from Vaucottes- 
gur-Mer (see above). — 56 '/2 M» Bordeaux-BenouviUe, 

58^/2 M. Etretat. — Hotels. *Golp Hotel & Roches-Blamches, below 
the Falaise d'Amont, at the end of the btach, lOJ R. from 5, B. IVt, d^j. 5, 
D. 7 (in tbe restaurant d^j. 6, D. 8-9), pens, from 15, omn. 1 fc; Uau- 
viLLB, on the beach at the end of the Bue Alphonse-Karr, open the whole 
year round, 120 R. from 5, B. IV2, d<5j. 4, D. 5, pens, from 1*2, omn. V« fr-j 
English \ Blanqdbt, Rue de la Valette, on the beach. — Hot. du la Plagk, 
Place Victor-Hugo, open ihe whole year round, R. from 3, B. 1, d.i\. 3, 
D. 4, pens, from^fr.. English; Omont, Route du Havre 6, open the whole 
year lound, R. from 3, H. 1, d^j. 3. D. 3»/«, pens, from 8 fr.; d'Anolb- 
TBBBB, R lUte du Havre 85^ K. from 3, B. 1, d^j. 3>/2) I>* ^t P^ns. from 9 fr., 
omn. 40 c., Engli^h•, deNobmamdie, des Bbdx-Adoustins (open the whole 
year round), both in the Place du March^. — Villas to let and furnished 
apartments are easily found. — Rettawant du Ccuino (see below), d^j. 5, 
D. 6 fr., and k la carte. 

Sea-Baths. At the Casino, hath, foot-bath, and attendant 90 c, sub- 
scription for twelve baths 7 fr. 20, for twenty-five 14 fr. 40 c, costume 
30, ^peignoir' 25, towel 10 c. — Warm Baths, behind the casino: bath IV4- 
2Vs, douche 2-2V2 fr. ; less for subscribers. 

Casino. Adm. in the morning 50 c, afternooa till 6p.m. 1 fr., evening 
(theatre extra) 1 fr., whole day 2fr.*, subscription for a week 12, fort- 
night 23, month 40, season 60 fr. ; for 2 pers. 22, 40, 65, and 95 fr. ^ each 
pers. beyond two, 7, 14, 20, and 25 fr. All subscriptions are ^suspended' on 
extra occasions. Season June 15th- Oct. 1st. 

Goff Oourse (18 holeO on the Falaise d'Aval, 5 min. from the casino. 
— Lawn Tennis Club^ see p. 162. 

Post and Telegraph uffice. Route du Havre 26. 

Omnibus to Fieamp (see p. 148) from the Hdt. Omont. Motor Omnibus 
to Le Havre, see pp. 162, 142. 

Etretat f one of the most fasMonahle watering-places on the K. 
coast of France, is a small town, with !2024 inhah. , situated, like 
most of its neighbours, at the foot of lofty cliffs, here 300 ft. high. 
It is surrounded with pretty villas and attractive country-houses, 
but it possesses no harbour. Etretat is especially affected by artists 
and literary men, who are attracted by its picturesque and curious 
situation, but these have brought in their train enough of the fash- 
ionable world to render the cost of living here considerably higher 
than at less pretentious but equally comfortable watering-places on 
the same coast. 

The Railway Station^ beyond which is the Grand-yal(seep.l52), 
is at some distance from the beach. On the way to the latter we 
pass the Church of Notre 'Dame, with a portal of the llth rent. 
and a tower of the 13th. The Beach is protected from the sea 
by a sort of embankment of shingle ; and a terrace, with the Casino^ 
has been constructed. The bathing-establishment is to the right ; 
the left part of the beach is used by the fishermen for hauling up 
their boats, and for their 'Caloges', i.e. old boats turned upside down 
and used as huts for storing nets, etc. 


zed by Google 

152 RimUW. ETRETAT. 

The H^UPTS at EtreUt ai« among the most intereeting on this coast 
Both the Falaiu d^AmoiU (to the ri^t) and the Falaise it Aval (to 
the left) aie pierced by PorUs^ worn by the action of the sea, and the 
same canse has produced Tarions cnrions pyramidal and needle-Hke 

The Falaise d'AmaU is ascended by a long flight of steps, be- 
ginning on the beach. On the summit are a modem chapel and t 
semaphore. Near the latter a path, to the left, leads down to t 
short tunnel descending to the beach. 

To reach the top of the Falaise ^Aval we pass behind the B6tel 
BUnquet and follow first the Rue du Docteor-de-Miramont and 
then the telegraph-wires, finally mafcing directly for the 'ijutd 
Dubesc' (ifmts. \ to the right on the summit of Ae diff, ahtve tie 
FcTt€ dTAr^ Fine Tiew to the left of the AigmOU ttEhtUL i 
prramid *230ft high, the Petit-Port, bounded by precipitom diffi, 
and the gieuitic rocky gateway called the MammepoHt, Neax ^ 
^stter is a zi^far stairway descending to the beach. At low tiie '•t 
may return by the loot of ^e difis and throng Ae Porte d'Anl 
(^see aborel, near which is a gretto called the 'Tron ^ rH<HUie'. 

In the Orand^Val, the raHey to the right of the raflway, is tbe 
Pastft^ a pitimenade to which admission is gained by payB£Dt| 
1 iiwe-»naisX Farther on are the Prc-iestoKt Ch^pd (serrioe in i 
mer at 10 a.Tzu'^ and the Pmhlic Oorakms. 

Ft^M Ftkitat to Lk Hat«i, W rwTw>«r, aee K.SOa. — By 

IT V^ »o'*.'«r onmittts fovr tLm«t 4aLy, twice Ti£ Si. Joaim, nili/ikr| 
>>Art:a£ fr » 1^ E: ^v ^ Harre, »e*r tfce post-ofiioe ^sre ^/s fr^xttmr 
' :t«: V-s fr,\. — Tht rt»i at trst asoa^ f^r 9amt 4istaace. 1^ IL . 
r .>i^ $ X. !.« r.isrit^ l^H ■. i^im Am u m mt !■ M mmt (HoC T " 

'try v:^> » ii^iibvH**, tlif rerc^Tztj; lUJa of wUck is Tisliie for 3& 1 
•1 ki *'f~i|r«- ^ t *. t?rt.»«rt, aKxi 1*4 ■- froM A. Jmmm (Hotel j 
r :^.f\, a t sLlnjST.:;>gfe. «»v"rr<4 u> t-x artists, ^h M. CemmOe, Tbe 

a lar^t -rL.fcM, incicaiiiij: ib* yrpxi^drT of Le Havre itraanrar. see pJ 
iHi lilt r^Li ij F « S^w- Adreitf*. ^^ r ai raally makes a l<n;J 
9n&^. jia5i$^JD$ COM e»& of Su,Airet9e (p. lt5V. u> (17 X.) MMMm&re (p. f* 

21, WmtttiiLf-FlMM im OiJvmiM. 

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Digitized by LnOOQlC 

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zed by Google 

152 Route 20, ETRETAT. 

The ♦Cliffs at Etretat are among the most interesting on this coast. 
Both the Falaise d^Amont (to the right) and the Falaise d'Aval (to 
the left) are pierced hy PorteSy worn hy the action of the sea, and the 
same cause has produced various curious pyramidal and needle-like 

The Falaise d^Amont is ascended hy a long flight of steps , he- 
ginning on the heach. On the summit are a modem chapel and a 
semaphore. Near the latter a path, to the left, leads down to a 
short tunnel descending to the heach. 

To reach the top of the Falaise d^Aval we pass hehind the H6tel 
Blanquet and follow first the Rue du Docteur-de-Miramont and 
then the telegraph-wires, finally making directly for the ^Castel 
Dnhosc' (rfmts.), to the right on the summit of the cliff, ahove the 
Porte d^Aval, Fine view to the left of the Aiguille d' Etretat, a 
pyramid 230 ft high, the Petit-Port, houndisd hy precipitous cliffs, 
and the gigantic rocky gateway called the Manneporte, Near the 
latter is a zigzag stairway descending to the beach. At low tide we 
may return hy the foot of the cliffs and through the Porte d'Aval 
(see above), near which is a grotto called the 'Trou h. THomme'. 

In the Orand'Valy the valley to the right of the railway, is the I 
PassSe , a promenade to which admission is gained by payment 
(iawn-tennis). Farther on are the Protestant Chapel (service in sum- 
mer at 10 a.m.) and the Public Gardens. 

Fboh Etbbtat to Lb Havbb, by Railway, see R. 20a. — By Rcadti 
17 If., motor omnibus four times daily, twice vi& St. Jouin, inlV^hr.,! 
starting from ISRoote du Havre, near the ppstrofflce (fare 2V2 fr.^ return*! 
ticket 4Vs fr.). — Tlie road at first ascends for some distance. 1^4 H. Lm 
'tilleul. 3 M. 2ki Poterie, i% tf. from Brunetal-Ui-Bains (Hdt. HarUn)J 
About 2 M. to tlie N.N. W. is tlie Cap Antifer (310 ft.), a dangerous promo^ 
tory with a lighthouse, the revolving light of which is visible for 35 K 
on an average. 6V2 M. Goubert, about IV4 M. from St. Jouin (Hdtel d^ 
Paris), a fishing-village, resorted to by artists. 8V2 M. Caii9ille. The towei 
of the i3th cent, church of (12 H.) Oeteville is noteworthy. W/tM. JSanfriel 
a large village, indicating the proximity of Le Havre (tramway, see p. 141)1 
On the right is Fort Ste. Adresse. The road finally makes a long de-l 
scent, passing one end of Ste. Adresse 0[>. 145), to (17 M.) Le Havre (p. 140) J 

21. Watering-Places in Calvados, 
a. Troavllle-Deanville» Villers-Bur-Mer, Houlgate, and Cabourg. 

From Le Havre to Trouville, Stbambb thrice daily in ca. *U hr. (fares 
3 fr. 25, 1 fr. 70, 90 c). — From Trouville to ViHerS'SW-Mer, 7 M., Railway 
in Vs hr. (fares 1 fr. 25, 85, 55c.); to HoulgaU, n^ltHL., in V4-I hr. (fares 
2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 50 c, 1 fr.); to Cabourg, W/t M., in I-I1/4 hr. (fares 2 fr. 60, 
1 fr. 75, 1 fr. 15 c). — From Bouen Trouville may be reached vii Glos- 
Montfort (p. 16S) and Pont-rEvSque (p. 166); from Cherbourg and CJaen 
Cabourg may be reached vii Dozule-Pntot (p. 156) or vi& M^tidon (p. 165). — 
From Trouville to Paris vi& Lisieux (p. 165), IS6V2 M., in 8V4 hrs. (fares 
24 fr. 75, 16 fr. 75, 10 fr. 95 c. j *Trouville Express', Ist cl. only, 10 fr. extra). 

Trouville. — Hotela (charges usually raised during the races). *HdT. 
DB Pabis (PI. b; C, 3), *'B6t. dbs Rochbs-Noibbs (PI. a; C, 2), at theN.E. 
end of the town, 170 R. from 5, B. 2, d^j. 6, D. 8, pens, from 15 fr. ; both 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 


zed by Google 


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TROUVILLE. 21.R0UU. 163 

of the first claas and near the beach. — HSt. Bellkyue (PL c; C, 8), IfiO B. 
from 6, B. IVsi ddj. 4, D. 6. pens, from I2V2, omn. 1 fr. ; 6K.-HdT. d'Anglb- 
TKKRB (PI. d; C, 3), behind the casino, R. from 5, B. 1V», d^j. 4, D. 6, 
pens, from 13 fr. 5 •Hot. du Bras-d'Ob (PL g; C, 8), 120 B. from 6, D. 5, pCns. 
from 10, omn. »/4-l fr. — Hot.-Bbstadkant do Heldbb, Place de THdtel-de- 
Ville, B. from 3, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr. 5 Hot. de la Plage (PL e 5 C, 3), 
B. from 3, pens, from 7 fr., well spoken of; Bbags^jodb (PL h j C, 4), Qua! 
Valine 14, pens, from 10 fr.; do Louvbs (Pi. k; G. 3), B. from 3, pens, 
from 10 fr., Tivoli (PL i; C, 3), R. from 2V2, B. I1/4, d^j. 3, D. 4 fr., Bue 
de )a Her; db la Jbt£s-Pboiibnaoe (PL f ; D, 1), B. from 4, pens, from l2 fr. ; 
DU Chalbt*deb-Boches, behind the Hdt. des Boches-Noires (PI. C,2); Hdr.- 
Rbsiadbant db Bodbgoqmb bt db la Plaob (PL q ; C, 3), d^j. 2Y«, l>- 3V« fr. ; 
HdT. Mbukioe, Bues Carnot and St. Michel (PL 0, 3), B. from 3, pens, from 
8 fr. ; db's Baiks, Bue des Bains 6 (PL G, 3), pens, from V/t fr. ; de Fkancb, 
Quai Joinyille36, near the station. — On the Honfleur road, Toubing Hotel, 
B. from 3, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr. — The Bdtels du Helder^ Tivoli^ and 
de France are open all the year round. — Furnished Sousee and Lodgings 
are easily obtained. 

Bestauranti. At the Hdtel$ du ffelder^ de la Plage, de Bonrffogne, and 
the other hotels; at the Caeino; on the Promenade Pier (dej. 3, D. 4 fr.). — 
Buffet at the station. — Oafei. De la Plage^ near the pier; iden-Casino 
(PL 2, B,3; caf^-concert), also on the beach, adm. 1-5 fr. 

Sea-saths opposite the Gasino and the Hdtel des Boches-Koires ; bathing- 
box 60c.-3fif.; costume 60, ^peignoir' 80, towel 15, ^guide baigneur' 60 c. 

Oasino {Salon; PL 1. G, 3). Admission for one day 1-3 fr. (according 
to the season), theatre 3-4 fr. extra. Subscription (including adm. to theatre 
thrice a week) per week 25, fortnight 40, month 70 fr ; double-ticket 45, 
70, and 110 fr. Concert every afternoon ; ball on Sat. evening. 

Oabi. With one horse, between 5 a.m. and 12.30 a.m., per drive IV22 
with luggage 2fr.; with two horses 2 and 8 fr.; for Deauville 2 and 3 
or 8 and 4 fr.; from the pier to the station 2 and 3 or 8 and 4 fr. For 
drives in the neighbourhood a bargain should be made. — Oarriaget for 
hire, Bue des Bains 55, Bue de la Gav^e 11. — llotor Oara for hire. Auto- 
garage duPonty Place duPont; Cheringou, Bue des Bains 88; Bedel Modern- 
garage, Bue de Pont-rEvfique 104. 

Feat ft Telegraph Office (PL 9 ; G, 3), Bue Victor-Hugo 20. 

Steamboat to Le Havre, daily during tiie season, in */« hr., see p. 141. — 
Ferry (PL G, 4) to Deauville, 6 a.m.-10 p.m. (5 c. ; 10 c. after 7 p.m.). 

Omnibui from the station to the town , i/s f'l &t night 70 c, or 70 
and 90 c. with SO kilos of luggage. To Honjleur via Villerville^ see p. 154. 

Exonreien - Brakes ply regularly in the season to various points of 
interest in the vicinity (consult the placards ; fares 3-8 fr. accordmg to the 
distance); office at the Fish Market (Poissonnerie). 

Stndicat dUsitiative at the Hdtel de Ville. 

Trouvillt'SVLr~Mer^ pleasantly situated at the mouth of the Tou- 
ques, Is one of the most frequented watering-places on the coast of 
Normandy. The season lasts from July to October and is at its height 
in August, when living here is extremely expensive. In 1830 Trou- 
ville was a humble fishing-village with a small harbour; now it has 
6401 inhab., and the beach and adjacent slopes are covered with 
handsome villas and country-houses. 

The Railway Station (PI. C, 5) is situated on the left bank of 
the river, between Deauville and TrouviUe. We cross a bridge to 
reach the latter. The Harbour (PI. B, G, 3-5) is much used by 
flshing-boats and also carries on some trade in timber*. The church 
on the hill to the right of the harbour, Notre-Dame-des- Victoires 
(PL 6; 0, 4), is a modern erection. The Fish Market (PI. 8; 0, 4), 
near the end of the quay, presents an interesting spectacle when 

154 Route 21, DEAUVILLE. Watering-Maces 

the flshing-boats come in. Thence the important Rue des Bains 
leads to Notre-Dame-de-Bons-Secours (PI. 6; 0, 3), another small 
modem church, with a fine facade and a Renaissance tower. Beyond 
the flsh-market rises the Hotel de ViUe (PI. 4; C, 3), in the style of 
Louis XIII., to the left of which is the Place de la Cahotte (ferry 
to Deauville, see p. 163). 

The * Beach (Plage) of TrouriUe (PI. B, 0, 2, 3), stretching tiom 
tlie harhour to the Hotel des Roches-Noires, a distance of about 2/3 M., 
is one of the finest in Franco and during most of the day in the 
season is thronged with holiday-makers and bathers in fashionable 
and attractire costumes. It is bordered for nearly its entire length 
by a broad paved or boarded promenade. It has been pithily de- 
scribed as the ^Summer Boulevard of Paris'. 

The Casino (PI. 1 ; G, 3), known also as the Salon, a large edifice 
on a terrace overlooking the beach, offers all the attractions common 
to fashionable institutions of the sort (see p. 153). — At the other end 
of the beach is the Promenade Pier (PI. 0, D, 1), or Jetie des Anglais,' 
adm. 10 c, gratis to passengers by the steamer to Le Havre, which 
starts here at low-tide. 

DeauvUle. — Hoteli. ^Qrand-Hotbl (PL 1 ; A, 5), 120 R. from 5, D. 8, 
pens, from 15, omn. 2fr. ; GR.-HdT. de la Tbrrassb (PI. m ; B, 4), 120 B. 
from 4, D. 4, pens, from 10, omn. 1 fr., both on the beieh; Hdx db l*Eubopb 
(PI. n; G, 6), Fbascati (PI. oj 0, 5), Spobtino Hotel (PI. p ; C, 6), all near 
the station. — Botues and FumisMd Apartments may be obtained. — Sea 
Bathing as at Trouviile. — Ferrv to Troaville, see p. 153. — Ool/ Course, 
Ayenue de Villers, 1 M. from the station. 

Daring a fortnight in August the Race Course (PI. B, C, 6) at Deaaville 
is the scene of a highly fashionable race-meeting. 

Deauville, which shares the railway-station with Trouviile, may 
be reached from the right bank of the harbour either by ferry (5-10 c.) 
or by the bridge near the station. Founded in modem times as a 
sea-bathing resort, it has broad and straight streets, but the original 
plan was never carried out and the town presents the appearance of 
a half-filled canvas. The beach is distinctly inferior to the beach at 
Trouviile, and at low water the tide recedes too far. The Terrasse 
skirts a number of fine houses, situated somewhat far apart. 

From the beach a tramway runs to Tourg Mile- lee- Sahlons (10 e.) and 
Binerville (20 c.), about halfway to Villers-eur-Mer (p. 156). 

ExcDRSioNs from Trouviile and Deauville (see p. 153 and comp. the Map, 
p. 138). To the ruins of Bonneville, Lassay, and St. Amoult, see pp. 166, 166. 
— To the (10 M.) CMUau d'Hihertot, a castle of the 17th cent., situated at 
8t. Andri-d*Hibertot. The road intersects the picturesque Foreet of Touquee 
and passes (5 M.) 8t. Oatien and OVs M.) St. Benoitd'Bibertot, The fUtion 
of Quetteville (p. 1(6) lies 21/3 H. to the V.E. of the chateau. 

From Tbouvillb to Honflbur, 10 M., motor-omnibus hourly in the 
season irom the station (50 niin.; fare 2 fr. 10 c, to Villerville 1 fr. lO c). 
The road ascends a steep hill, passing the fine Chalet Cordier and several 
pretty villas. l»/4 M. Hennequeville. — SVa M. Villerville {H6lel de Parte; 
des Bains; de la Plage, pens. 7-8 fr. \ Continental; des Parisiens) is a pictur- 
esquely-situated bathing-place of more humble pretensions than Trouviile 
or Deauville. It has a small Casino. Villas and chalets to be let. — The 
road goes on to (41/2 M.) Criqueboeuf, with its pretty ivy-covered church, 
beyond which the view is confined by trees. — 10 M. Honjteur (p. 146). 

" Digitized by V^nOOk 

in Calvados. VlLLERS-SUR-BfER. 27. Route, 166 

The Railway to Gabouro diverges to the right from that to 
Lisieux and Paris. On the right lies the race-course of Deauyille. — 
31/2 M. TourgivilU, To the right rises Mont Canisy (330 ft), with 
the insignificant mins of the Chdteau de Lcusay and of the Church of 
8L Amouttj an 11th cent priory. From Tourg^ville a visit may 
he paid to the Chdteau de Olatigny (16-17th cent), which has a line 
carved wooden facade. — 8 M. Blonville (Normandy Hotel, pens, 
ftom 7 fr.), a simple hathing-resort 

7 M. VillerS-BUr-Mer. — Hotels. Dbs Hsbbaoes bt Bbaubivaqb, 
on the beach, R. from 4, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr. \ db Pabis bt db la Plagb, 
adjacent, R. from 4Vs, pens, from 10^.; do Bbas-d^Ob, D. 4, pens, from 
8 fr. ; DB Fbancb, B. from 3, pens, from 8 fr.,iopen all the year round \ i>d 
Okano-Baloon, pens, from 9 fr. — Sea-Batha, IVt fr.; bathing-box and foot- 
bath 60, costume 50, 'peignoir' 40, towel 10 c. — Oaaino, adm. 1-2 fr. 

ViUen^sur-Mer is a picturesquely situated hathing-place re- 
sembling Trouville. The environs are undulating and prettily 
wooded; the beach, 1 M. from the station (omn. 60 c.), is very 
extensive and flanked by tasteful villas. — Interesting excursion to 
(372 M.) Houlgate vi& the Desert and the Vaches Noires (see below). 

The railway now ascends a steep incline, passing the station of 
OonnevUle-St- Vaast and traversing woods. 

12^2 M. Houlgate. — Hotela. *Obano- Hotel d'Hoclqate, Rue 
Baumier, of the first class, with sea-view, separated from the casino by 
a garden, 240 R. fron? 5, D. 6, pens, from 12 fr.; Hdr. BsAUsfijouB, R. from 3, 
pens, from SVs fr., an annexe of the Qrand-Hdtel ; Hot. Imbbbt, withHdT. 
DB LA Xbb as an annexe, R. from 3, pens, from 9 fr. ; Bbllevde, R. 6-8, 
D. 4, pens. 10-12 fr.; Mon*Castbl, pens. 9-10 fr., open all the year round; 
DB Pabi.s, pens. 7-8 fr. 

Sea-Batha. 1 fr. 45-1 fr. 60 c. Bathine-box 50-60, costume 40-60, 'peignoir' 
26-35 c, etc. — Casino. Adm. per day 1 fr., evening I fr. ; subscription for 
a week 16 fr., fortnight 25 fr., month 40 fr.; for 2 pers. 25, 40, a^ 65 fr. 

Houlgate f an attractive hathing-resort of recent origin, consisting 
mainly of villas with shady gardens and extending to within V2 M. 
of Dives- Gabourg (see below), has a fine sandy beach. It was 
formerly called Beuzeval-Houlgate, though the old village of Beuzeval 
lies some distance to the E. 

About 3 M. to the N.E. is the Disert^ a chaos of rocks fallen from 
the cliffs which are known as the VcKhu Noires. 

The railway now approaches the sea and passes between the 
last few houses of Houlgate and the shore. A little farther on the 
Dives enters the sea. Walkers to Gabourg cross the small harbour 
at its mouth by a ferry. — I33/4 M. Dives- Cab ourg^ about 2/4 M. 
from each of the places it serves. 

Dives-Bur-Mer (H6t. Ouillaume-le-Conquerant^ a quaint build- 
ing; de Normandie; des Voyageurs, d^j. 272> D. 3 fr.) was the harbour 
from which William the Gonqueror first set sail for England in 1066 
(comp. p. 12). A column on a neighbouring height commemorates 
the event; and the names of his companions, so far as known, have 
been inscribed inside the porch of the Churchy which dates from the 
14th and 15th centuries. The timber Market Buildings, not far from 
the church, date in part from the 16th century. 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 

156 Route 21. CABOUBG. Watering-Places 

Cabourg. — Hotels. *GBAMD-HdT£L , on the beach, adjoining the 
Casino, at the end of the Avenue de la Her, 200 B. from 10, D. 8 fr. — 
Hot. des Ddos-de-Nobhandie, also on the beach, d^j. SVzi I>. ^ fr* i du Casino, 
DD NoBD, Avenue de la Her; des Deux-Homdes, Avenue de Trouville, B. 3-5, 
D. 3V« fr. ; 1>E LA PosiE. 

Sea -Baths, li/a fr. ; bathing-box alone 60 c., costume 60 c., etc. — 
Casino. Adm. 1 fr. and 1 fr. extra for the ^Salle des fStes'; subscription 
for a week 12, fortnight 20, month 30 fr.; for 2 pers. 20, 30, and 40 fr. 

Omnibus tramwat to Houlgate (60 c.) vis^ Dive* (30 c). 

Cabourg is of modern origin, at least so far as the sea-batbs are 
concerned. It is laid out on a fan-shaped plan, wbich, however, as at 
Deauville, is far from being completed. It has several well-shaded 
avenues and a wide sandy beach. There is, of coarse, the usual 
liuge Casino, with its Terrasse, and in the neigbbourhood is a Qotf 
Course (18 holes). 

Fjboh Dives-Cabourg to B^nodville (Caen,LuC'Sur'M€r)y 9^2 V..^ steam 
tramway in 1 hr. (fares 1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 85, 90 c). The line passes the entrance 
of Cabourg (25, 20, 15 c), and proceeds at some distance from the sea. — 
21/2 H. Le Home (Grand-H6tel)i a small watering-place with several villas. 

— Several other small stations. — 8 H. Ranville. We cross the Ome and 
a canal. — At (9i/« H.) B4nouville we change cars for Caen (see below). 

The railway, quitting tbe sea, runs to the S. to (6 M.) DotuU- 
Putot, where it forks, one brancli leading to (17V2 M.) Mizidon and 
the other to (20 M.) Caen, See pp. 165, 176. 

b. Lion-Bur-Meri Lno-sur-Mer, Langnmef St. Anbin-Bur-Mdr, 
and Courseolles. 
I. From Oaen to Luc-aur-Her direot. 
U H. Bailway in IV4-IV2 br. from the Oare de VOuett at Caen, in con- 
nection with the trains on the main line from the 8. (fares 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 80, 
1 fr. 30 c); or 10 H. in 30-35 min. less from the Qare St. Martin (p. 169), 
whence special trains run (comp. tbe Indicateor) ; fares 1 fr. 75, 1 fr. 35, 95 c. 

Caen, see p. 169. After leaving the Gare de I'Ouest the train 
makes a wide circuit to the W. of the town, passing the station of 
La Maladrerie, and reaches the Oare St, Martin (buffet), where 
carriages are changed. — 6M. Couvrechef; 7^2 M. Cambes; 9Y2M. Ma- 
thieu. Before reaching the station of(12M.) Douvr««-to-D/Wt;fanrfc 
we have a view, to the right, of its graceful tower (12th cent.), sur- 
mounted by a spire in open stone-work, flanked by turrets. — I2Y2M. 
Chapelle-de-la-Delivrande, a hamlet with the famous pilgrimage 
church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Delivrande, The present handsome 
church, with two towers, in the style of the 13th cent., is modem. 

— 14 M. Luc'Sur-Mer, see p. 157. 

II. From Caen to Luc-sur-Mer vi& Ouistreham. 

15 H. Steam Tbamwat in 1 V2 hr. (fares 2 fr. 90, 2 fr. 15, 1 fr. 45 c). 

Caen, see p. 169. Starting in the Boul. St. Pierre, the tramway 
skirts the left bank of the canal between Caen and the sea, via Calix, 
Hirouville, and (41/2 M.) BlainvUle. At (6 M.) Binouville it is joined 
by the tramway from Dives-Cabourg (see above). 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

in Calvados, LUC-SUR-MER. 21. Route, 167 

9V2 M. OoiBtreham (H6t. de I'Vnivers; de la Marine), an ^Id 
seaport at the month of the canal, with a Romanesque chnrch (12th 
cent.). Steamboat to Le Harre (p. 140). — 10 M. Riva-Bella (H6t. 
de la Plage) and (I2V2 M.) La Brhche-d' Hermanville have sea-haths. 

13 M. Lion-BHT-Mer. — HoteU. Grand-Hotel, on the beach, E. from 3, 
d^j. 3, D. If pens, from 8 fr. ; HdT. de la Plage, R. from 3, pens, from 7 fr. ; 
Du Calvados, pens, from 6 fr.; BBLLEVUSf D. 3 fr. — Furnished Howts. — 
Sea-Baths. Bathing-box 20 c, costume 40 c, 'peignoir^ 15 c, towel 10 c. — 
Small Ccuino. — Lavn Tenni* Club. 

Liori'sur-Mer is the leading watering-place on the W. coast of 
Calvados, thongh it is less pretentious than Houlgate or Gabourg 
and has no casino. The whole coast to the W. of Caen, though a 
little shingly, is very suitable for bathing , and at places it rises in 
cliffs of some height. At certain points the end of the season is apt 
to be accelerated by the smell of the sea-weed cast up in large 
quantities by the sea, which, though used as manure by the peasants, 
is 'seldom wholly carted away before it begins to decay. There are 
few distractions at these watering-places beyond those offered by the 
sea and the beach. The bathing-boxes are large enough to be let 
(26-45 fr. per month) as day-quarters for visitors. 

13^2 ^> Haut'Lion has a Renaissance chiteau. 

15 M. Luc-SUr-Mer. — Hotels. Bklle- Plage, D. 31/2, pens, from 
8fr.; DE8 Familles, D. 3, pens.- from 6fr. ; dd Petit-Enfer, du Soleil- 
Levakt, pens, at thess from 7 fr. ; all on the beach. — Sea-Baths. Bathing- 
box 40, costume 30-60, ^peignoir' 30-40, towel 10 c. — Casino. Adm. 1 fr., 
subs, for a week 7, fortnight 13, month 20 fr.; family-tickets less. 

Luc'sur-Mer is the oldest though not now the pleasantest or 
most frequented bathing-place on this coast. It possesses a tolerable 
Casino, — The Faculty des Sciences of Caen maintains a Maritime 
Laboratory at the £. end of the beach of Luc, in the direction of Lion. 

III. From Luo-sur-Mer to Langrune, St. Aubin-sur-Her, and Oourseulles. 

Vz, I'At and 5 H. Eailwat in 5, 10, and 25 minutes. This railway is 

used also by the steam-tramway to Courseulles and Bayeux (see p. 165; No. 2). 

Beyond Luc the railway runs close to the shore. The Rockers du 
Calvados in the sea are said to derive their name from the *Salvador', 
a vessel belonging to the *Invincible Armada', wrecked here in 1688. 

1/2 M. ri5i/2 M. from Caen) Langmne. — Hotels. Gband - Hotel 
Cauvin, E. 2-5, pens. 7-9 fr. ; Hot. de la Mee, with cafd ; du Petit-Paradis ; 
all on the beach. — Bathing-box 30 c. ; costume 30 c, towel 10 c. 

Langrune resembles Luc in its general characteristics, but it is 
only 3/4 M. by the shore from Luc and 1 M. from St. Aubin, both 
of which have casinos. The Church has an elegant stone spire dating 
from the 13-14th cent, and contains a fine stone pulpit. 

13/4 M. St. Anbin-BUr-Mer. — Hotels. De la Tebbass^, halfway to 
Langrune, D. 3, pens. 6-8 fr. ; St. Aubin (pens. 7 fr.), Bellevue, well- 
situated on the beach; de la Masime, D. 3 fr. — Casino, near the E. end 
of the beach. — Ca/rf dt VUniver*^ near the Casino. — Bathing-box 25 c. 
— Lawn Tennis Club. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

158 Route 22 CHERBOURG. Practical Notet. 

8t, Aubin-sw^Mer, though only a village like Langrone, with a 
rather shingly heach, affords on the whole hotter hathing. It has a 
long *Terra8se* of attractive villas, and possesses oyster-heds. — 
Between St. Auhin and Bemieres is Rive-PlagCf with villas. 

3 M. BemUrei'8ur'Mer (Yigne; de Paris) also has a few hathing- 
hoxes and an interesting charch dating from the ll-13th centuries. 

5 M. Conrfeidles (^H6t, de Paris; des Etrangen^ pens. T^/a fr. — 
ReataurarU des Parcs^aux-Huttres) , at the month of the Seullea^ 
carries on an active trade in oysters. Its sea-haths, at a little 
distance from the town, are the most primitive on this coast and the 
most exposed to the sea-weed annoyance. The oyster-heds are 
hetween the station and the harhour. 

At CreuUy, d'/s M. up the valley of the Seniles, is a fine old cha- 
teau of thel2-i6th cent.; the ruined PlHory of St, Gabriel^ Vft M. farther 
on, dates from the 11th, 13th, and 15th centuries. 

Steam-tramway from Courseulles to Bayeux^ see p. 165. 

22. From Cherbourg to Paris. 

230 M. Cbbuin de Feb de l^Odbst in 6V2-9 hrs. (fares U fr. 65, 28 fr. 15, 
18 fr. 40 c). To Caen, 132 M. in 21/4-^1/2 hrs. (fares 14 fr. 90, 10 fr. 10, 
6 fr. 60 c). Restaurant -car by the afternoon express (D. 37a-5 fr.). — 
From Southampton to Cherbourg^ see p. ziv. 

Cherhonrg. — Hotels. *Palaoe Hotel des Bains bt du Casino (PI. d; 
£, 3), bevond the Avant-Port dii Commerce, open only in the season, 
B. from 4, B. li/s, d^j. 4, D. 5, pens, from 9, omn. to the station 1, to the 
quay 1/2 fr., frequented by Americans. — Hdx. db L^AMiBAUTft et de l^JSubopb 
(PI. a; E, 4). Quai Alexandre-Trois 16, E. from 31/2, B. li/,, d^j. 3, D. 8V2, 
pens, from lOVs, omn. */< ^^'j good; de Fkance et do Commbbcb (PI. c; 
E, 4), Rue du Bassin 41, B. from 8, B. iV4, d^}. 3, D. 3V3, pens, from 10, 
omn. *^fr., good; de l^Aiglb et d'Anoletebbe (PI. bt B,4), Place Bricque- 
ville, B. from 3, B. II/4, d^j. 2V4, D. 31/4, pens, from 8V2, omn. 1 fr., good ; 
DB l'Etoile (PI. g; D. 4), Buc Gambetta 7^ dd Louvbe (PI. e*, D, 3), Bue de la 
Paix 30, B. 1, d^j. 2V2, D. 3V2, pens. from. 10, omn. V2fr.; des NftoociAKTS 
ET DE l^Agbicultube, Buc de la Fontaine 37 \ du Nobd et de la Paix (PI. U 
D, 3), Rue de la Paix 32, R. 2-3, d^j. or D. 2V2, pens. 6-7. omn. Vt fr. 

Oafes. Du Grand-Balcon (with restaurant), de Paris^ Quai de Caligny *, 
d$ VAmirauU, de V Europe^ Quai Alexandre-Trois; du Orand-TMdtre^ at 
the iheatre. 

Oabs. Per drive IV2, per hr. 2 fr. — Cabbiages for excursions at 
FaUanfs, Bue de TAncien - Quai 10. Motob Gabs for hire at the Oarage 
Mallet, Bue du Bassin 11. 

Tramways. From the Place du Chdteau (PI. E, 4) to Tourlaville (comp. 
PI. 0.3; p. 161); and to Equeurdreville and Querqueville (comp. PI. A, 3, 4; 
p. 161). Fares 10 o. within the town , 10 c. per section outside the town, 
15 c. for two sections, 25 and 35 c. all the way. — Omnibus to Barflmr 
fp. 162), twice daily (6 a.m. and 4 p.m.); to Beaumont and AuderviUe at 
6.15 a.m. (IV2 and 2 fr.); to OmonvUle-la-Eogue (p. 161) on Mon., Wed., 
Thur<., & Sat. at 4 p.m. (IV2 fr.). 

Boats for expeditions within Cherbourg Boads: to the IHgue (see 
p. 159; 2 hrs. there and back) about 10 fr. for 5pers., 5-6 fr. for 2 pers.; 
a bargain should be made. 

Steamboats to the Digue (on holidays, 1 fr.); Alderney and Quermey 
on Wed. in 5-6 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 60, 8 fr. 75 e.); Le Havre, every Frid. (see 
p. 142). To Southampton (London), see p. ziv. To Bremen, Hamburg, Kew 
York, Brazil, etc., once a week. 

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. D, 4), Bue de la Fontaine 54. 

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Roadstead. CHERBOURG. 22. Route. 159 

SMk- Baths (PI. B, 3), to the E., beyond the commercial harbour, 
50 0., with coftume and towel 75 c. Poor beach. — Casino, adm. 50 c. per 
day; balls weekly daring the bathing-season (adm. 1 fr.). Military band 
on Thurs. & Sunday. 

British Vioe-Oonsul, Capt. G. D. Btregford. — American Oonsular Agent, 
Octavt Canuet. 

French Protestant Church (P1.D,5), Place Bivette; service at 11a.m. 
English Church Service* are held here in Aug. and Sept. at 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. 

Cherbourg, a town with 43,837 Inhab. and a fortress of the first 
class, is the third naval harbour of France. It owes its importance 
to its sitnation at the N. extremity of the peninsula of the Cotentin 
(p. 161), in a bay embraced between Gap LM on the E., and Gap 
de la Hague on the W., and directly facing the coast of England, 
which is ahout 70 M. distant. 

Cherbourg is supposed by some authorities to occupy the site of the 
Roman station of Coriatlum or Coriallo ; others regard the name as a cor- 
ruption of CasMirrsAtfr^rtM (G«>sar's Castle), and it has also been suggested that 
the name is the same as the English Scarborough. The site of the town seems 
to have been early occupied by a baronial castle; and a Count of Cher-* 
bourg followed William the Conqueror to England in 1066. Its proximity 
to England exposed it to frequent attack; and it was taken by the Eng- 
lish in 1295, 1346, and 1418. In 1856 it became the capital of Charles the 
Bad of Navarre, and it continued to be a favourite landing-place for English 
expeditions against France until 1450, when it was taken by Charles VII. 
Finally, in 1758, the English fleet under Lord Howe landed a force here 
under General Bligh, who destroyed the fortifications and burnt the ship- 
ping and all the naval stores, though he left the town and its inhabitants 
unmolested. In April, 1814, the Due de Berri landed here, and in Aug., 
1890, Charles X., the ex-king, embarked at Cherbourg for England. 

The town, most of which is modem, well-built, and clean, is 
comparatively uninteresting. The Commercial Harbour, which is 
situated at the mouth of the Divette and the Trotebec, lies to the 
E. of the town. This harbour, of quite secondary importance to the 
naval port (see p. 160), comprises two basins and an entrance- 
channel, 656 yds. long, flanked by granite breakwaters. Large quan- 
tities of butter, eggs, and poultry are exported hence to England. 
At the S. end of the harbour is the Railway Station (PI. E, 6). 

The KoADSTBAD of Cherbourg, which lies in front of the two 
ports, has a total superficies of 4 sq. M., but as certain parts of it 
are too shallow for large ships at low water, the total available 
anchorage is about one-fifth of that, or about 600 acres. Though 
sheltered on three sides this roadstead is naturally exposed to the 
full force of gales from the N., and Vauban, the great military en- 
gineer, seemed almost to be flying in the face of nature when he 
proposed to establish a naval port here. The efforts to protect the 
anchorage by means of a *digue' or breakwater, placed about 2^/2 M. 
from the town, were twice baffled by winds and waves, but a third 
attempt, begun in 1832, has succeeded in rearing a gigantic barrier 
which seems likely to withstand the fury of the tempest. The present 
^Digue is a substantial breakwater, 8942 yds. long, from 164 to 220 
yds. broad at the base, and 65 yds. broad at low water-mark. It i" 
formed of huge blocks of granite, carefully fitted together and prese 

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160 Route 22, CHERBOURG. Harbour, 

ing a sloping face to the sea on each side. On this base rests a mass 
of masonry, 30 ft. high and 30 ft. thick, rendered practically monolithic 
by the use of hydraulic cement. The works cost upwards of 2,680,000^ 
Visitors are permitted to land on the Digue (hoats, see p. 158), 
which is fortified with four forts and twelve batteries. The excur- 
sion is one of the pleasantest at Cherbourg, and visitors enjoy an 
opportunity of viewing at close quarters some of the men-of-war 
which are usually lying in the roads. The view from the breakwater 
to the W. of the central fort is finer than that from the E. The 
channels at the ends of the Digue are commanded by forts on the 
mainland, as well as by detached forts on islets. The defences of 
the town are completed by a chain of detached forts on the sur- 
rounding heights. 

The Naval Habboub, or Dockyard (PI. B, 0, 1, 2, 3), is strongly 
defended on the landward side by a special line of redoubts and a 
ditch, which practically render it quite separate from the rest of 
the town to the S.W. It is entered from the Rue de I'Abbaye. 
Foreigners should present their passports vised by their consul. The 
visit takes about IY2 hour. 

Louis XIV., with the aid of Vauban, first conceived the idea of estab- 
lishing a naval harbour at Cherbourg, in opposition to Portsmouth, about 
80 M. distant. The works were, however, soon abandoned; and nothing 
was done until Napoleon I. took up the project with vigour. Its com- 
pletion was reserved for Napoleon III., who opened the port in presence 
of Queen Victoria in 1858, exactly 100 years after the last Enelish attaok 
on the town. The harbour and its buildings cover an area of 64 acres, and 
comprise three principal basins hewn in the solid rock, several smaller 
docks, well equipped workshops, magazines, and storehouses of every sort, 
and innumerable sheds, barracks, and other military and naval establish- 
ments. The three chief basins (the Avant-Porty Bcutin NapoUon-TroU, and 
Bcunn Charlet-Dix) have a minimum depth of 30 ft. at low water and can 
easily accommodate 40 ships of the line at one time. 

Between the Bassiu Charles-Dix and the sea is situated the Direction de 
VArtillerie (PI. B, 1). with an extensive Absenal, perhaps the most interest- 
ing point in the dockyard for the ordinary visitor. It contains about 
50,000 weapons CK),000 muskets), artistically arranged in geometrical patterns 
and in the shape of porticos, palm trees, baskets, etc. Visitors are generally 
conducted over one or more of the Men -of- War lying in the harbour; but 
as these are usually dismantled, they are not so interesting as when lying 
outside in the roads. A Collection of Modde is also shown. 

Near the commercial harbour lies the handsome Thtairt (PI. 10; 
E,4). In a small square adjoining the Avant-Port is a bronze Buit 
of BricquevilUy a colonel of the first empire, by David d' Angers. 
The Place NapoUon (PI. D, 3), to the left, farther on, is embellished 
with a \}Tonze Equestrian Statue of Napoleon 1,^ by ArmandLeVtfel. 
The inscription, ^J' avals r^solu de renouveler \ Cherbourg les mer- 
veilles de TEgypte', refers to the construction of the Digue, which 
the emperor compared to the Pyramids. 

The Church of La Trinite (PI. D, 3, 4), on the S. side of the 
square, dates from the 15th century. The nave is decorated with 
polychrome paintings, and above the arches are painted and gilded 
reliefs representing scenes from the Passion and a Dance of Death. 

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Environs. CHERBOURG. 22. RouU. 161 

The H6TBL DB ViLLB (PI. 6; D, 3), on the W. side of the Place 
de la R^puhlique, contains a Mwie of some importance (open on 
Sun., 10-12 & 2-4 or 5, free; other days, except Mon., for a fee). ^ 

The paintings and ceramic collection are on the first floor; the collec- 
tions of natural history and antiquities on the second. — The Mwnidpal 
Library (PI. 2; D, 4), Rue Thiers, is open on week-days, 2-4 and 5-9 (in 
winter closed on Mun. but open on Sun. 10-12 and 2-6). 

Beyond the Monument des Coloniaux (PL D, 3; 1895) the Rue 
de I'Ahhaye leads towards the naval haibour. At No. 9 in this 
street is an entrance to the public Pare Emmanuel-Liais (PI. G, D, 
4). This contains a* museum of natural history, antiquities, and a 
collection of coins besides some paintings (open as the Mns^e, see 
above, and also on Thurs. 2-5) . 

On the S. side of the town is the noteworthy modem church of 
Notre-Dame'du-Voeu (PLD, 5), in the Romanesque style, with two 
towers and spires at the W. end. It replaces an earlier church of 
the 12th cent. , built, along with an abbey, in ftilillment of a solemn 
vow taken by Queen Matilda of England during a storm. 

In the pretty Public Garden (PI. F, 5), to the E. of the station, 
are a statue to Millet (1814-75), the painter, and a 13th cent, gate- 
way of the ancient chapel of the Abbaye du Voeu. 

The Montagne du Route (PL F, 5), beyond this garden, commands 
a fine *yiew of the town and the roadstead. The summit, reached 
in V4 ^» oil ^oot, is occupied by a fort (no adm.). 

Etavironi. Pleasant excursions (carr. 2 fr. per hour) may be made from 
Cherbourg to the CMteau de Mariinvast (see below), the park of which is 
open on Sun. from 12-6; to the (2Vs M.) Chdteau de Towlaville (i6th cent.), 
on the Barfleur road (tramway, p. 168); to the village of (dV«M.) Querqueville 
(tramway, p. 163), 1 M. beyond which is the Chdteau de NaequevilUy 
formerly the residence of Count Alexis de Tocqueville, the great political 
writer and historian. About 2 M. farther on is the bathing-beach of (6 M.) 
Landemer (Voisin; Millet), to which an omnibus (60 e.) plies from the 
tramway terminus. The little port of Omonville-la-Rogue (omnibus from 
Cherbourg, li/s fr., 4 times weekly) lies 6 M. from Landemer. Thence we 
may proceed to the pretty Bay of 8t. Martin (2i/s M. farther), beside Cape 
La H<ngue (16 M.), from which the CHiannel Islands are visible. 

From Cherbourg to Coutancee^ FoUigny (Granville), Pontorson (Mont 
St. Michel), Doi (St. Malo), and Brest, see B. 24. 

The railway on quitting Cherbourg runs to the S. through the 
Cotentin, a flat and marshy region, famous for its cattle. The 
name is said to be a corruption of Ager Constantinus, Many of the 
followers of William the Conqueror came from this part of Nor- 
mandy ; and some of the most illustrious names among the English 
aristocracy are derived from those of humble villages in the Cotentin. 
The hedges here give quite an English aspect to the country. 

To the left rises the Montagne du Roule (see above). — BeyoncT 
(33/4 M.) Martinvast, with a chateau and stud-farm belonging to 
Baron Schickler, we traverse a hilly district to (7 M.) Couville. 
Diligence to Flamanville (12 M.). — 11 M. Sottevait, to the left, has 
a chiteau of the 17th centary. Railway toCoutances, etc., see p. 176. 

Baboejcbk's Northern France. 5th Edit. Digitized by QiDOQlC 

162 Route 22. CARENTAN. From Cherbourg 

171/2 M. Yalognes (Hdtel du Louvre), a small decayed town 
with 6746 inhab. and a chorcli, which dates from the 14th century. 

Fbom Valoonks to Babflkub , 221/s M. , railway in i*/^-2 hrs. (fares 
3fr.70f 2 fr. 80, 2 fr. 5 c). This line has a special station near the main- 
line station. •— 6 H. Bt-Mariin-d'AudouviUe-VaudrevilU. Branch to Monte- 
bourg, see below. — &J2 M. Letlre-Quiniville. QuinMlle (hotel) is a sea- 
bathing place with a good beach. King James II. of England watched 
the battle of La Hog^e (see below) from this neighbourhood. — 157^ M. 
8t-Yaaat-la-Hoague (Hdtel de France; de Ifomutndie), a sea-bathing town 
with 2635 inhabitants. The harbour is defended by forts on the He Tatihou, to 
the y., and on the He de la Hougue^ to the S. La Hogue is famous for the 
defeat of the French admiral De Tourville by the united English and Dutch 
fleets, under Bussell and Booke, which took place off the coast in May, 1692. 

22Vs M. Barfleur (Sdiel du Phare) is a small seaport and sea-bathing 
resort, which was of considerable importance in the middle ages as a port 
of communication between Kormandy and England. In 1120 Prince Wil- 
liam, only son of Henry I., with 140 young noblemen of the English court, 
set sail here in the ill-fated ^White Ship", which struck on one of the rocks 
outside the harbour and went down with all on board, except a poor butcher 
of Bouen. The Powte de BarJIeur or Raz de Oatteville^ 2Vs H. to the 17., 
the B. extremity of the peninsula of the Cotentin, is marked by a light- 
house, 245 ft. high. — A public conveyance (2 fr. 10 c.) plies twice daily 
in 3 hrs. from Barfleur to (17 M.) Cherbourg. 

From the station of (221/0 M.) Montebourg a branch-line runs to 
the town of the same name, 272 M. to the S.W., and to (2V2 M. 
farther on) the railway from Yalognes to Barfleur (see above). 

351/2 M. Carentan (H6U d^AngUierre, R. 2-3, D. 31/2 fr.; du 
Commerce), a town with 4076 inhab. on the canalized Taute, ex- 
porting vegetables and dairy - produce to England. The church 
dates from the 15th century. 

Fkom! Cabbmtan to Gabtkbbt (Jerety). 26V2 M., railway in 1-1 Vz hr. 
(fares 4 fr. 80, 3 fr. 25, 2 fr. 10 c). — 14Vs M. La Haye-du-PuUs, junction for 
the Cherbourg and Brest line (p. 176). 21 M. Porfbail (Des Voyageurs; 
du Nord), a small seaport carrying on trade with Jersey. — 26^2 M. Carteret 
(*H6t. de la Mer^ pens. 8-10 fr.; d'AngleteiTey pens. 6^/2-8 fr., goodt du Com- 
merce'^ du Petit -Vatel^ pens. 6V2 fr.), a thriving bathing-place and seaport, 
with a daily service of steamers in summer to (1 hr.) Oorey on the island 
of Jereey (fares 7 fr. 56, 5 fr. 6 c, return-tickets 11 fr. 25, 7 fr. 50 c). 

Grossing the Vire we quit the Ootentin. — 43 M. NeuiUy, 
Branch-railway to (5 M.) laigny (H6t. de France, R. 2-4, D. 2V« fr. ; du 
Cknnmeree), with 2549 inhab. and a small harbour which exports large 
quantities of butter to England. — A steam-tramway plies from Isigny 
to (7 M.) Orandcamp-lee-Baine (Grand-Hdtel, B. 2V«-6, D. 3 fr. 5 H6t. de la 
Groix-Blanche ; de la Plage), going on thence viS (14V2 M.) St. Lawent-sur- 
Mer (H6t. de la Plage), a new bathing-resort, and (17 M.) Formigny, famous 
for the battle that practically ended the Hundred Years' War (1450; see 
p. 118), to (26 M.) Le MolayLittry (p. 163). 

To the right flows the EUe, an affluent of the Vire. 

461/2 M. Liion (Buffet; H6tel de la Oare). 

From LisoN to Coutancbs (Oranville. Avranches, etc.), SO M., rail- 
way in Vh-2*/A hrs. (fares 5 fr. 40, 3 fr. 66, 2 fr. 36 c). The train enters the 
valley of the Firs, and ascends it to 8t. L6. Views to the right. 

12 M. St. L6 CE6t. de lUniverty d^j. 21/2, D. 3 fr., well spoken of; de 
Normandie^ d^j. 2V2, I>. 3 fr.. good), a very ancient place, with 12,181 
inhab., and the chief town of the department of the Manche, is pictur- 
esquely situated on a slope on the right bank of the Vire. It derives 
its name from St. Laudus (d. 368), one of its early bishops. The town 

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to Paris. BAYEUX. ^2, Route. 163 

was fortified by Gbarlemagne, and was taken several times by tbe Nor- 
mans and Englisb. Tbe Church of Notrt-Dam^^ built in tbe 14-16tb cent, 
and restored in tbe 17tb cent., bas two handsome towers; and outside 
tbe cboir is a fine Gotbic stone pulpit. Tbe H6tel de VUU (a modern 
structure), tbe Palais de Juttiee^ and tbe Pri/eeture ar^ situated in a 
square near tbe cathedral. In the vestibule of tbe first, to tbe rigbt, 
is tbe ^Torigny Marble% an antique pedestal witb an important in- 
scription. — llie Mutie (adm. on Sun., 12-3, and Tburs., i-i) contains 
paintings of no great value, various works of art (triptych witb five large 
enamels), antiquities, medals, etc. — At St. Ld is one of tbe principal 
stud-farms in France, with about 400 horses (adm. 12.30-5.30). — Branch- 
railway to Cfuilbervaie (p. 175 ; 16 M.) via (7V« M.) Conddsur- Vire (to Granville, 
see p. 179) and (10V« M.) Toriffny-wr-Vire (St. Pierre 5 d'Angleterre), a small 
town with two ancient churches and a diateau (late 16tb cent.), the lati er 
now used as the town-hall and containing a mus^e. 

From St. Ld to Coutances tbe railway traverses an'Undulating district. 
Views to tbe left. — 30 M. Coutances, see p. 176. 

54 V2M. Le Molay'Littry, whence tramways ply to (7 M.) BalUroy- 
le-Bourg and to (19 M.) Orandcamp-les- Bains (p. 162). 

631/2 M. Bayenz (^Hdtel du Luxembourg , Rue des Bouchers 25, 
R. from 3, D. 31/21 pens, from 10 fr. ; du Lion-d'Or, Rue St. Jean 71, 
D. 3, pens. 8-12 fr.; Benedictine Convent- Pension, for ladles), a 
town of 7736 inhab. and the seat of a bishop, Is situated to the right. 

The site of the town was occupied by tbe capital of the Baiocassi, 
called by tbe Romans Augustodurum. Subsequently the town became tbe 
capital of the Bessin. In the wars witb England it was taken by Edward III. 
in 1346, by Henry V. in 1417, and by Dunois in 1450, after tbe battle 
of Formigny. 

The *Cathbdbal of Notre-Dame, about V2 M. from the station, 
from which It is visible, is a striking Gothic edifice of the 12-1 5th 
cent., built on the site of an earlier church founded in the 11th cent, 
by Bishop Odo of Bayeux, half-brother of William the Conqueror. The 
two Romanesque towers of the W. facade are surmounted by Gothic 
spires ; the Flamhoyant E. tower has a modern dome. The chevet, 
with its graceful turrets, is one of the most beautiful examples of 
the early-Gothic style in France. The lateral portals are also note- 
worthy features of the exterior, which is still elahorately decorated, 
though many of the sculptures have been mutilated. 

Tbe Interior produces an equally dignified impression. The Roman- 
esque arcades of the nave belonged to a church of tbe 12th cent^ tbe span- 
drels of the lower arches are covered with rich diapering. The exceed- 
ingly graceful pointed arches of the apse, constructed in the IStb cent., 
are among tbe chief beauties of the church; while, on the other hand, 
the windows of this part of the building fail of effect on account of their 
small size. The windows of the transepts and above the organ-loft are, 
however, large and fine. There are 22 chapels in the cathedral, and a large 
crypt (adm. 50 c.) under the cboir, dating from the Uth century. Tbe 
first chapel to the left contains a magnificent altar-piece in stone ; and the 
stalls and four sedilia in the choir should be examined. Adjoining one 
of the towers on the outside is a chapter-boose of the IStb cent, (restored ; 
adm. 50 c). Ascent of the tower, 1 fr. 

The fine Renaissance house. No. 6 Rue Bienvenue, should be 
noticed. The Rue des Ohanoines and then the Rue Bourbesneur, 
to the right, lead to the handsome Place du St. Sauveur. Here (to 
the right) is the Public Library (30,000 vols.), containing a small 


164 Boute 22. BAYEUX. From Vhtrbourg 

Musie (shown on application). In the latter is preserved the famous 
•Baybux Tapbstey, which is conveniently exposed to view, under 
glass, in the second room. 

This famous Taputry consists of a strip of linen doth, now somewhat 
brown with age, 380 ft. long and 18 inches wide, embroidered in coloured 
woollen thread with scenes illastrating the events which led to the con- 
quest of Bngland by William in 1066. Most of the scenes are explained 
by Latin inscriptions, the letters «f wMch, about an inch long, are also 
stitched in wool. Tlie main subjects occupy the centre of the tapestry, 
and above and below run ornamental borders, filled with scenes from 
Asop^s Fables, sporting scenes, fabulous animals of the most grotesque de- 
scription, and (towards the end) the bodies of the slain at Hastines. Eight 
colours appear in the worsted used, but there is little attempt to distribute 
these according to verisimilitude. The flesh-parts of the figures are merely 
outlined; the English are uniformly depicted with moustaches and the 
Normans without; and there is an evident effort made to retain a general 
resemblance in the recurring figures of William and Harold. 

The origin of this interesting work has given rise to much contro- 
versy. A favourite opinion ascribes it to Matilda, wife of the Conqueror, 
and tradition has it that it was her death alone that prevented the final 
scene of William's coronation appearing on the tapestry. Though possibly 
not by Matilda, the work Is undoubtedly a contemporary work of Wil- 
liam's rdgn ; so that its importance as a historical document far outweighs 
its interest as a specimen of the domestic art of the 11th century. It is 
mentioned in an inventury of goods belonging to Bayeux cathedral in 
1476; but general attention was not drawn to it until 1724, when it was locally 
known as the ^Toilette du Due Guillaume\ In 1808 Napoleon I. exhibited it 
at the Louvre in Paris in order to incite the French to another conquest of 
England; but it was afterwards restored to Bayeux. — The first of the 
58 scenes is in the middle of the left side of the room : — 

1. Edward the Confessor despatches Harold to announce to William 
that he will one dav be king of England. 2. Harold sets out. S. Church. 
4. Harold at sea. o. Harold driven by a storm to Ponthieu. 6. Harold 
prepares to land. 7. Guy, Count of Ponthieu, arrests Harold. 8. Ouy and 
Harold ride to Beau r in. 9. Interview between Ouy and Harold. 10. Mes- 
sengers from William arrive to request the release of Harold. 11. They 
threaten Guy. 12. William receives a messenger. 13. William receives 
Harold at Eu. 14. William Ukes Harold to Bouen. 15. A priest and 
Elgiva, daughter of William. 16. William and his army, accompanied by 
Harold, reach Mont St. Michel, on a campaign against Conan, Duke of 
Brittany. 17. They cross the river Couesnon; Harold rescues several Nor- 
mans from the quicksands. 18. Conan put to flight at Dol. 19. William 
attacks Dinan. 20. Conan surrenders the keys of the town on the point of 
a lance. 21. WilUam knights Harold. 22. They return to Bayeux (Baffias). 
28. Where Harold takes the oath. 24. Harold returns to England. 25. And 
reports to Edward the result of his embassy. 26. Funeral of Edward at 
St. Peter's Church (Westminster Abbey). This scene seems out of order, as 
Edward lies on his death-bed in No. 27, and dies in No. 28. 29. The crown is 
offered to Harold. 80. Harold is crowned by Stigand. 31. The people pay 
homage. 82. Portentous appearance of the comet of 1066. 88. Harold arms 
hhnself. 84. English ship on the Norman coast. 36. William orders a 
fleet to be built. 86. His ships are launched. 87. The fleet is armed and 
provisioned. 88. William sets sail and arrives at Pevensey. 89. The horses 
are landed. 40. The Normans march towards Hastings. 41. Wadar, whose 
name appears in Domesday as a vassal of Odo, William's brother, acts as 
commissariat-officer. 42. The viands are prepared. 48. Banquet of William. 
44. William, Odo of Bayeux, and Robert ofMortain take council. 45. The 
camp is fortified. 46. William is informed of Harold's approach. 47. A 
house is burned. 48. The Normans advance. 49. William questions Vital 
the scout. 50. William's advance is announced to Harold. 61. William 
harangues his troops and the battle begins. 52. Death of Leofwine and 
Oyrih, Harold's brothers. 58. The thick of the fight. 54. Odo encourages 

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to Paris. LISIEUX. 22. Route 166 

the Normans. 56. William raises Ms visor to show his men that he is not 
dead as reported. 66. Harold's army is cut to pieces. 67. Death of Harold. 
58. Flight of the English. — Beprodnctions of the tapestry (5 fr.) are best 
obtained at 7o«to<fi'«, in the town. 

A little to the right of the library is a statue of Alain Chartier 
(1386-1449), the poet, who was bom at Bayeax. — On the first floor 
of the Hdtel de Ville, incorporating the former episcopal palace, is 
a Musie (free on Sun. & Thurs., 1 to 4 or 5; other days on appli- 
cation), Including some interesting paintings. — Bayeux still retains 
many quaint old houses which will delight the antiquarian: Rue 
St Martin, Nos. 43, 69, Rue St. Malo, No. 4, etc. 

Steam-tramways ran from the station at Bayeux as follows: 
i. To Pobt-bm-Bbssin, 7 M., in 40 min. (fares 1 fr. 20, 1 fr., 65 c). — 
3 H. Svay^ with a 12th cent, church. — 4Vs M. MaUwu. The river Aurt 
disappears here into the Fotsa du Souqf^ four curious natural openings, 
emerging 2 M. farther on at the foot of the clifQi. — 7 M. Port-9n-B9tsin 
(Hdt. de la Matine; de TEurope) has a small harbour. 

2. To Luc vi& njea and Courseulles, 1972 M., in 21/4 hrs. (3 fr. 70, 
2 fr. 95, 2 fr. 6 c). — 5»/2 M. Bpes-Bourffy beyond which the branch to Ar- 
romanches (see below) diverges to the left. — 8 M. Aanelles {Edt. des Bains^ 
B. 2Vt, pens. 8 tt.y de la BeUe-Plage. pens. V/t fr.), and (12 M.) Ver-sur-Mer 
(Hdt. de la Plage) are small sea-bathing places. — liVs M. Courseulles 
(p. 168). Thence to (19Va M.) Lue, see pp. 168, 157. 

3. To Abbomanchbs, 8 M., in 1 hr. (1 fr. 66, 1 fr. 26, 85 c). Ar- 
romanohes-les-Bains (Grand-Bdtel^ pens. 7-10 fr. ; Bdt. de V Etoile-dwNord) 
is a prettily-situated bathing-resort. 

4. To La Besack, 28 M., in 2»/4 hrs. (4 fr. 60, 3 fr. 80, 2 fr. 60 c), 
vi& (10 M.) BalUroy-le-Bourg (p. 163). 26 M. La Beeaee, on the line from 
Caen to Vire, see p. 175. 

691/2 M. Audrieu, to the right, with a fine church of the 13-14th 
centuries. 731/2 M. BrelteviUe-Norrey. 76V2 M. Carpiquet. — As 
the railway approaches Caen we see, on the left, La Maladrerie 
(p. 156), with a prison. Fine view of the town. We cross the 
Ome and enter the picturesque town of — 

82 M. Caen (p. 169). 

On leaving Caen we have a view of the town on the left. 861/2 M- 
FrenouviUe-Cagrhy, — 901/2 M. Moult- Argences. — 96^2 M. MSzidon 
(Buffet; H6t. de I'Europe; Ste. Barbe). Railway to Argentan, etc., 
see pp. 186, 186. 

From M^zidon to Tkodville, vift Cabourg, Honlgate, and Villers- 
sur-Mer, SV/2 M., railway in l»/4-3V4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 70, 8 fr. 86, 2 fr. 50 c). 
The train descends the Vallie d^Auge^ with rich pastures watered by the 
Divet. — 81/2 M. ffotot, with an interesting church of the 16th cent.; 10 M. 
Beuvron. — At (I2V2 M.) DotuU-Putot a line diverges to Caen (p. 175). — 
171/8 M. Dives-Cabourff. Thence to (31V« M.) Trouville, see p. 165. 

We now cross the Dives, — IOOV2 M. Le Mesnil-Mauger. 

A branch-railway runs hence to (39 M.) Ste. Oavhurge (p. 182)^ via 
(15 M.) Vimottiiere (Soleil d'Or), a small town 3 M. to the X. of Camefnbert^ 
a village noted for its cheese, and (3672 M.) Echauffour (see p. 167). 

We pass through a tunnel, I8/4 M. long. 

112 M. Liiienz (Buffet; Hdtel de Normandie, Rue au Char 26, 
R. 2-5, dej. 2V2, D. 3 fr. ; Modeme, Rue de la Gare 6; de France et 
d^Espagne, Grande-Rue 121), the ancient Novicmagus, the capital 
of the Lfxovti, and formerly the seat of a bishop, is a prosperous 

166 Route 22. BERNAY. From Cherbourg 

indastiial and commercial town, with 16,239 inhab., situated at the 
confluence of the Touques and the Orbiquet. The leading industry 
is the manufacture of woollen cloth and flannel 

The imposing Cathedral of 8t, Pierre lies about V2 M. to the left 
of the station, closely adjoined by the former episcopal palace and 
other buildings. This church was built about 1170, at a single epoch 
and by a single architect, with the exception of the apse, the chapels 
of which were added about 123Q, and the central Lady Chapel, which 
was erected in the 16th cent, by Pierre Cauchon, Bishop of Beauvais, 
one of Joan of Arc's judges, in expiation of his condemnation of 
that heroine. The S. tower (230 ft. high), the only one with a spire 
was rebuilt in 1679. The transept is surmounted by a lantern-tower. 
The S. side is embellished with a striking portal, which Ruskin calls 
*one of the most quaint and interesting doors in Normandy', the 
work of which is ^altogether rude, but full of spirit'. In the ihterior 
(360 ft. long, 98 ft. wide, 65 ft. high) the choir-stalls and five large 
paintings by Lemonnier^ Lagrenee, Larrieu, Lacourt, and Robin, in 
the chapels of the nave, representing scenes from the lives of SS. 
Peter and Paul, are noteworthy. Henry II. of England married 
Eleanor of Guienne in this cathedral in 1164. 

The Episcopal Palacf, built in 1680, is now used as a court- 
house, and contains the small Mus^e. The staircase in the court 
ascends to the Public Garden. The Music (open on Thurs. and 
Sun., 1-4; on other days on application) contains chiefly modem 
French pictures. 

The church of St, Jacques (late 16th cent.), a little to the S., 
reached by the Rue au Char, contains some good stained glass and 
ancient paintings and wood-carving, but the only interesting feat- 
ure of the exterior is the staircase leading up to it. In the neigh- 
bourhood are many quaint old houses ; e.g. in the Rue aux Ftvres 
(Maison de Francois Premier, or de la Salamandre), Rue d^Orbiquet, 
Rue de la Paix, Place Victor- Hugo, and Rue de Caen (Maison de 
Charlotte Corday). 

From Lisieux to Teolville (18 M. , railway in ^fi-i hr.) and to 
HoNFLEUR (26 M., in i-lVa hr.). Leaving the line to Caen on the left, we 

gas8 through a tunnel V2 ^> long, and descend the valley of the Touques. 
M.iXe Brmil-Blangv. — 10^/2 M. Font-l'Ev^que (Bras cTOr), a quaint old 
town, noted for its cheese. The line to Honjleur (p. 145) diverges here to 
the N.E., via QuetteviUe (p. 168). — The next station on the TrouviUe line 
is (16 M.) Touques (Hot. de la Marine), a small river-port, with two ancient 
churches. 2V4 M. from the mouth of the Touques and iV4 M. from the 
ruined cfhdteau de Bonnecille (adm. 50 c). 18 M. Trouville, see p. 152. 

A hranch-line runs from Lisieux to (20 M.) La Trinit^-de-RMlle (p. 167), 
via (7 M.) 8t. Pierre-de-Mailloc, near the ancient Chdteau de Mailloe (visitors 
admitted), and (12 M.) Orbee (H6t. de France •, de TEquerre), a small town 
with an interesting church. 

At St. Ouen-le-JHtij 7 M. to the W. of Lisieux, is the ancient Abbey 
of Val Richer, of which Thomas Becket was for a time abbot. It was 
transformed into a chateau hy Guisot, who died here in 1874. 

1311/2 M. Bemay (Lion d'Or; Cheval Blanc), a commercial and 
industrial town with 8115 inhab., is situated on the left bank of the 

to Paris. CONCHES. 22, Rout f. 167 

Charentonne. The church of Ste, Croix (14-16th cent.) has an 
elegant tower and contains a fine high-altar of red marble, dating 
from 1683-84, and some curious sculptures, including an Infant 
Jesus, on the tabernacle of the altar, ascribed to P. Puget. Remains 
of the Abbey (101,3), round which the town grew up in the 11th cent., 
and of the Abbey Church are still extant, the former occupied by the 
SouS'Pri feature, the Hdtel de ViUe, and other public offices, the latter 
serving as a market. Behind it is a small MusSe (open Sun. & Thurs. 
1 -4). The horse-fair of Bemay, held in the 6th week of Lent, is one 
of the most important in France. On a hill outside the town, to 
the left of the railway, stands the church of Notre-Dame'de-la' 
Couture, built in the 14-1 6th centuries. 

A branch-railway runs from B^rnay to (33 M.) Ste. Geiuburge^ follow- 
ing at first the valley of the CharentonM. At (10 M.) La TriniU-de-Riville it 
is joined by the line from Lisieux (see p. 166), and at (29 M.) Eehauffowr 
merges in the railway from Le Mesnil-Manger to Ste. Gauburge (p. 165). 

The church of (138 M.) Serquigriy (buffet) is adorned with a fine 
portal of the 11th century. 

Fbom Sxbquignt to Rouen, 38 M., in IV2-IV4 hr. (fares 6 fr. 85, 4 fr. 
60 c, 3 fr.). The line follows the attractive valley of the Risle. — 7 M. 
Brionnt (H6t. de France), an industrial town (3351 inhab.) with a castle 
of the 12th century. — 12 M. Olos-Mon^fort (buflfet); to Evreux and Hon- 
fleur, see p. 168. Oar line hence runs to the E. via (21 M.) Bourgtheroulde^ 
(31 M.) Elbetif (St. Aubin; p. 140), where we cross the Seine, (36V« M.) Tour- 
ville, and (37 M.) Oistel (p. 122). — 45V2 M. Rouen (Rive Droite), see p. 128. 

At (141 M.) Beaumont-U- Roger (Hot. de Paris) are a ruined 
abbey (12-1 3th cent) and an interesting church (14-16th cent.). 

162 M. Conohei (Buffet; Croix Blanche), near which is a ruined 
castle (12th cent.). The church of Ste. Foy (15th cent.) has 27 
stained-glass ^Windows (16th cent.), those in the choir designed by 
Aldegrever. The vaulting of the choir and aisles, two reliefs in the 
chapels, and the elegant spire (rebuilt) should also be noticed. 

A branch-line runs hence to (24 M.) LaigU (p. 182), via (17 M.) RugUt 
(H6t. de TEtoile), which contains two interesting old churches. 

Tunnel. — Near (157 1/2 M^O -^^ Bonrieville is the ruined Abbaye 
de la Noe, founded in 1144 by Matilda, daughter of Henry I. of 
England and wife of the German Emperor Henry II. 

163V2 M. Eyrenz. — Kailway Stations. Gare de tOuett (buffet), to 
the 8. of the town, for all trains. The Qare de Louvier* is for goods-trains 

Hotels. Du Grano-Gbkp, Rue de la Harpe 14, R. 2-12, B. IV4, d^i. 2Vs> 
D. 8, omn. Vz f'-^ Moderns, Rue Chartraine 23, R. 2-10, B. 1, d^. 2ys, 
D. 3, pens, from 8V2« omn. 1 fr. ; dc Ghbval-Blano, Rue de la Harpe 44, 
R. 2-5, B. V*' ^^j- 2V2, D. 3, pens. 8V4-9V2, omn. Vaf'-i du Rochbb-dk- 
Cangale, Grande-Rue 35, pens. 71/2 fr. ^ de la Bighx, Rue Josephine 7. 

Evreuxy on the Iton, is the chief town of the department of Eure 
and the seat of a bishop. Pop. 18,971. The chief trade is in grain. 

Evreux is a place of considerable antiquity, though the Mediolanum 
Aulereolum of the Romans is represented by the village of Vieil-Eweux, 
41/2 M. to the 8.E., where various Roman remains have been found. This 
Roman settlement was destroyed by the Franks under Clovis, and the town 
which succeeded was overthrown by the Norsemen at the end of tbe 

168 Route 22. EVREUX. 

9th century. Henry I. of England burnt Evrenz, with the eonsent of the 
bishop, on condition of rebuilding the chorches; and at the dose of the 
12th cent, it was once more given to the flames, on this occasion by Philip 
Augostas. The town gives name to the English family of Deverenz. 

The Cathedral of Notre' Dame, not far f^om the station, is a bnild- 
ing of great interest, though it confuses all styles of architecture in 
vogue from the 11th to the 18th cent., and is, unfortunately, not quite 
detached from other buildings. The main portal, which has two towers 
of unequal height, dates from the close of the Renaissance period ; 
but the most interesting feature of the exterior is the Flamboyant 
N. portal, built in 1511-31. The crossing is surmounted by a hand- 
some 16th cent, tower, with an open-work spire. 

The Imtbriob (restored 1875-S6) is 355 ft. long, with very lofty vaulting. 
The lower portion of the nave, which is remarkably narrow (21 ft.), is 
Romanesque, the remainder Gothic, of the 13-15th centuries. The chapels 
of the choir and ambulatory are closed with beautiful Renaissance screens 
of carved wood, and the stalls and delicate iron-work in the chcir and 
treasury (to the S.) date from the 15th cent.; but the chief glory of the 
interior is the * Stained Okus in the Lady Ghiu^el and the transepts, 
dating from tne 15th and 16th cent, respectively. The rose-window of the 
8. transept is a fine example of flowing tracery, with the peculiarity of 
having all the mullions of the same thickness. 

The cathedral is adjoined by some remains of Gothic Cloisters 
and by the tasteful BUhopa Palace (1481 j restored in 1876). To 
the N. is the Tour de VHorloge, a belfry of 1490. 

The Music (adm. daily, 12-4, 50 c; Sun. & Thurs. free), at the 
comer of the Rue de VHorloge and the Place de rH6tel-de-Ville, 
contains statues and other antiquities chiefly from Yieil-Evreux 
(p. 167), some modem French pictures, and medisTal relics. — In 
front of the handsome Hdtel de Ville (1890-95) is a pretty Fountain, 

In the extreme W. of the town is the former abbey-church of 
8t, Taurin^ founded in 1026, with a few Gothic additions of later 
date. It contains a crypt, some antique stained glass of the 16-16th 
cent., and some good wood-carving and bas-reliefs of the 16th cent- 
ury. On the way thither we pass the Palais de Justice, comprising 
an ancient Renaissance church. • 

A branch-railway runs /rom Evreux to (iV/2 M.) Louviert (n. 140), 
following the valley of the JUm. — Branch-lines run also to (SS^/s M.) 
Vemeuil (p. 182) vi& iV«y, Damville^ Condi-OouvilU, and Brstwil; and to 
(26V« M.) Dreux (p. 183) vi& Prey, Bt, Andri-de-V Eure, and 8t. Georges- 
Molel (p. 140). 

Fbom Evbeux to Honplbuk, 57 M., in 4-5V« brs. — 15V« M. Le Neubourg, 
a small town with the ruins of a castle and a 16th cent, church. 25Vz K< 
Si-Martin-Brionne. Brionne, see p. 167. — 26Vs M. Lt Bec-Hellouin, with the 
scanty remains of the Abhty of Bee, of which Lanfranc and Anselm, the 
first two archbishops of Canterbury after the Norman (Conquest, were in- 
mates before their elevation. — 90 M. Oloi-Montfort (buffet); to Ser- 
quigny and Bouen, see' p. Iff7. — The line now descends the valley of 
the Bisle. — 89 M. Pont-Audemer {H6t. du Lion-d'Or^ B. 3, D. 8 fr.; du 
Pot'ctEtain^ near the station), a picturesquely situated industrial village 
of 6111 inhab., on the Bisle. The church of Bt. Ouen, the chief building, 
dates from the 11th, 15th, and I6th cent, and contains some good stained 
glass and some curious wood-carvings. At No. 62 Rue aux P&tissiers, 
opposite the Hotel de Ville, is the MusH-Bibliothique (open Sun. 1-4). A 
eamboat plies daily on the Rifle from Pont-Audemer to (12 M.) Le ffawre. 


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CAEN. 23,RouU. 169 

in 2V2 hrs. (S fr.). Motor - omnibuses to QuitUbeuf (see p. 142), Elheuf 
(p. 140), lAsieux (p. 165), and Honjlew (p. 146). — 49V« M. Quett»>ilU (p. 154). 
— 57 M. ffon/leur, s«e p. 145. 

Beyond Evreux we have a good view of the town on the left 
and then pass through three tunnels. 173^2 M. BoUset (Eure), 
beyond which the Eure is crossed. 

180 M. BueU is also a station on the line from Rouen to Orleans 
via Elbeuf, Dreux, and Chartres (p. 140). — I86V2 M. Breval, — 
I94V2 M. Mantes (Rail. Restaurant) and thence to Paris, see R. 17a. 

23. Caen. 

Railway Stations. Oare d« P Quest (PI. F, 6), the chief station (Bufi'et, 
d^j.3, D. 3V2, meal IVzfr.), to the 8.E., used by all trains, including 
those to the coast (but eomp. p. 156); Oare St. Martin or de la Mer (PI. 
B, 2), to the N.W. — Oare du Tramvoay 4 Vapeur (steam-tramway^ PI. D, 
3 \ see p. 175), Boul. St. Pierre. 

Hotels. "Hot. d'Anolbtebbb (PI. a \ D, 3), Bue St. Jean 79, B. from 
4. B. li/s, d^. 3, D. 4 (in the restaurant 4 and 5), pens, from 10 fr., omn. 
30 c, box 25 c.. *H6t. de la Place-Botale (PI. c; C, 3), Place de la 
B^publique, R. 3-5, B. !»/«, d€j. 3, D. 3V2, pens. 10-12, omn. »/« f"**} English 
clientele, two first-class houses with lifts, hatha, etc. — Hot. de Fkance 
(PI. e-, E, 5), Bue de la Gare 6, near the Gare de TOuest, B. 2Va-4, B. 1, 
d^j. 3, D. 372, pens. 8-10 fr. •, *H6t. Modebne et de Londres bAunis (PI. f; C, 
D, 3), Boul. St. Pierre, B. from 3, B. IV4, d^j. 3, D. 3»^ fr. 5 do Cehtbb et 
BE LA Victoire (PI. gj D, 2, 3), Place du Maroh^-au-Bois, B. 2, d^j. 2»/2, 
D. 3 fr. \ DE NoRMANDiB (PI. d; D, 3), Bue St. Pierre 25, B. 2, B. "A, d6j. 2V2, 
D. 3, pens. 71/2 fr. — Pension de Famille. Quirin, Bue de Gedle 56, pens. 
6-7 fr., English. 

Restaurants. Pipin-FcAre, Place du March^-au-Bois 13-17 (PI. D, 2, 3), 
h la carte; de Madrid, Bue St. Jean 71, with garden, ddj. 3, D. 31/2 fr. (incl. 
wine), snd k la carte; Robert, Place St. Sauveur 11, d<j. 2V2, I>. 3 fr. (incl. 
wine); Bellevue, Place St. Martin, d^j. or D. 2V2 fr. (Incl. wine). — Cafes. 
Du Orand-Balcon, Bue St. Pierre 6U; de Madrid, see above; de VHdtel- 
de-Vilie, dee Voyageure, Place de la B^publique. 

Cabs. Per drive 1 fr., per hr. 2 fr., each additional »/< li'- 60 c- 5 V2 f'» 
more at night (11-7). — Luggage, 25 c. per package. 

Electric Tramways (comp. Plan). 1. From the Ocare de VOuett (PI. F, 5) 
to the Gare St. Martin (PI. B,2); 2. From the Gare de rOueet to the Rue 
Bicoquet (PI. A, 2) ; 3. From the Octroi de Falaiee (comp. PI. E, 6) via the 
Bue de Vaucelles to the Maiadrerie (comp. PI. A, 2); 4. From the Pont de 
CourtonM (PI. B, 3) to Venoix (comp. PI. A, 3). Fares, 1st class 15 c, 2nd 
cl. 10 c. ; correspondance (at the Place St. Pierre) 5 c. more. 

Post ft Telegraph Offices at the Hotel de Yille (PL C, 3) and the Bue 
de la Marine (PI. £, 4). 

Baths. Baine de la ViUe, Bue Daniel Huet 4 (PI. G,4); Bairn Catillon, 
Bue St. Louis 14. 

Steamboat daily to Le Havre from the Qnai de Juillet (PL F, 4; see 
p. 141). 

British Vice-Consul, Chat. Htttier, Bue Guilbert 27 (PI. D, 4, £, 3). 

English Church (St. MiehaePe), Bue Bichard-Lenoir (left bank of the 
canal); services at 10.80 & 3.30 (3 in winter). — MUsion Service at 7 p. m. 
at the British Seamen's Institute, Quai Vendoeuvre (PL £, 3). — French 
Protestant Church (PL C, 2), Bue de Ge3le 41. 

Stmdioat d'Initiativb du Calvados, Bue de Berni^res 10 (PL D, 3). 

Caen^ the chief town of the department of Calvados, with 44,442 
inhab., and next to Rouen the most interesting town iii^Normandy, 

Digitized by V 

170 Route 23. CAEN. St. Pierre, 

is sitnated on the Ome, abont 9 M. from the coast, with which it is 
connected by a canal, a railway (p. 175), and a steam-tramway fp. 175). 

Caen, mentioned as Cadomum in the early part o^ the ilth cent., first 
rose to importance in the time of William the Conqueror, under whom 
were built the castle and the two abbeys whose beautiful churches are 
still the chief ornaments of the town. In 1846 Caen, at that time *a city 
greater than any in England save London\ was taken and pillaged by Ed- 
ward III. of England; and Henry V. again captured it in 1417. France 
did not succeed in finally wresting it from the English until 1450. Caen 
suffered much in the religious wars of France and was well-nigh ruined 
by the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685. In 1798 Caen was the 
focus of the Girondist movement against the Convention ; and it was from 
this town that Charlotte Corday, born in the neighbourhood, set out to 
assassinate Marat. Auber (1782-1871), the composer, and Malherbe (1555-1628), 
the poet, were natives of Caen. Bean Brummel (consul at Caen) lies buried 
in the Protestant Cemetery, Bue du Hagasin-k-Poudre (PI. 0, 1). 

The celebrated Quarries of Caen stone, which have for centuries af- 
forded excellent building-material for the churches and other important 
ediBces of France and England, lie to the W. and 8. of the town. 

On leaving the station (PL F, 5) we turn to the right, take the 
first street to the right again, which leads under the railway and 
over the Orne, and so reach the handsome Monument of the Sons of 
Calvados, commemorating the war of 1870-71. In the Rue St. Jean 
(PI. D, 6-3), beginning at the farther end of the Place, which we 
now follow , rises (on the right) the church of St. Jean (PL D, 4), 
of the 14-15th cent., with two elegant but unfinished towers (16th 
cent.). The church is unfortunately much hidden by the adjoinin| 

There are several interesting old houses in the Rue St. Jean, among 
them (No. 214) the H^M de Beuvron (16th cent.) and (between Nos. 20 and 24) 
the JSdtel de Than (16th cent.), and in the adjacent Rue des Carmes and 
Rue Guilbert. The H6tel de Brae (ca. 1680), No. 27 in the last-named street, 
is now the British vice-consulate. 

♦St. Pierre (PL D, 3), in the boulevard of the same name, is a 
most interesting example of Gothic architecture, though dating from 
various epochs from the 13th to the 16th century. The chapels and 
the turret of the *Apse, both very elaborately decorated, were added 
in the Renaissance period. The most striking feature is the *ToweT 
(245 ft.), to the right of the main portal, a masterpiece of the bold 
and graceful style of art which prevailed at the beginning of the 14th 
century. The spire is pierced, and its base is surrounded by eight 
small turrets. There is a portal in the side of the tower, but the 
church has no transepts. 

The interior inclines slightly to the left beyond the choir. The 
capitals of the massive pillars in the nave are carved with a curious mis- 
cellany of sacred, profane, and grotesque subjects. (Note especially the 
third capital on the left.) The end of the nave centres on a single pillar, 
the usual termination being one on each side. The vaulting and keystones 
of the E. half of the nave are noteworthy. The ornamenta^on of the five 
* Chapels of the apse is especially lavish, including unusually large key- 
stones and modern stained glass. 

in the Place St. Pierre, opposite the church, is the Exchange^ 
formerly the Hotel Le Valois or d'EcovUU (1538), which has a 
charming court, with elaborate sculptures. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

La TrinitS. CAEN. 23. RouU. 171 

On an eminence beyond St. Pierre are situated the remains of 
the Castle (P1.G,D,2; no adm.) begun by William the Conqueror 
and finished by Henry I., and several times altered. It is now 
used as barracks, and presents few points of interest. 

In the Bue de Gedle (Voa. 17, 28, 31) and in the picturesque quarter 
between the church of St. Pierre and the caatle are many quaint old 
houses : Place du lUarchd-au-Bois, Rue Montoir-Poissonnerie (Nos. 10 & 12, 
16th cent.), and Eue Porte- au-Berger. The Bue des Ghanoines (PI. D, E, 
2{ Gothic turret at No. 29) leads to the former church of ^9/. CfiUet (PI. E, 
2), dating from the 11th cent, but rebuilt in the 14th. 

♦La Trinity (PI. E, F, 2), the church of the Abbaye-aux-Dames, 
was founded in 1062 by Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror, 
while the latter at the same time founded the church of the Abbaye- 
aux-Hommes (p. 172), as an expiation of the sin they had com- 
mitted in marrying within the forbidden degrees of consanguinity. 
La Trinity, with the exception of one chapel on the right of the 
choir, in the Transition style, is Norman-Romanesque ; it was skil- 
fully restored in the 19th century. Two square towers rise on the 
W. facade and another from the transepts ; all three, long deprived 
of their spires, were provided with balustrades in the 18th century. 
The interior is no less striking. The nave only is open to the public ; 
It has small galleries surmounting the aisles. For admission to the 
transept and to the crypt beneath the choir application must be made 
at the Hotel-Dieu (50 c. each pers.). The choir is reserved for the 
nuns who manage the Hotel-Dieu, but it is visible from the transept 
(through the grille). 

The Hdtel-Dieu or Hospital (PI. F, 2), adjoining the church, is 
established in the former nunnery, rebuilt in the 18th century. The 
nuns of La Trinity were generally daughters of noble families and 
enjoyed considerable privileges. The abbess was known as Madame 
de Caen. Visitors are admitted. The extensive park contains a 
maze around a mound which commands an attractive view. 

We retrace our steps to St. Pierre, and then follow the Rue St. 
Pierre (PI. C, D, 3), in which are several old houses (Nos. 18, 20, 
52, 54, 75, 80). some with 15th cent, wood-carving. Farther on is 
8t. Sauveur (PI. C, 3), consisting of two naves placed side by 
side, the one on the right dating firom the 15th cent., the one 
on the left (*de St. Eustache') from the 14th. These are terminated 
by a richly decorated apse of 1546. There is a handsome belfry 
and spire of the 14th cent., and the S. door has carved wooden 
panels of the 15th century. 

The Rue Froide, skirting the church, passes the end of the Rue 
de la Moniiaie, in which are the remains of several ancient buildings 
(Ildtel de la Monnaie of 1531, H6tel Duval de Mondrainville of 
1549, etc), and leads to the Palais deVVniversiti (PI. C,1), which 
was partly rebuilt' and considerably enlarged in the last century. 
It contains a Natural History Museum (adm. Sun., 12-3 or 4), the 
ethnographical collections of Dumont d'Urville (p. 188), and 

172 RouU 23. CAEN. St. Etienne, 

library of 146,696 yolumes. In front of it, in the Rue Pasteur, are 
bronze statues of Malherbe (p. 170), by the elder Dantan, and 
Laplace (1749-1827; a native of Calvados), the mathematician, by 
Barre. — Near the Uniyerslt^ are the modem Gothic Benedictine 
Churchy attached to a convent, and the Promenade St. Julien, — 
At the W. end of the Rne Pastear is the Place St. Sauvear, in which 
is another church of St, Sauveur (P1.B,2,3), dating from the 12th, 
14th, and 18th cent., now a corn-market. On the right side of the 
square rises the Palais de Justice (18th cent.). In the centre is a 
bronze statue, by L. Rochet, of Elie de Beaumont (1798-1874), the 
geologist, a natiye of the department. 

The Rue Ecuy^re (old houses at Nos. 9 and 42) and the Rue 
Guillaume-le-Conqutfrant, continuing the Rue St. Pierre to the W., 
lead to — 

♦St. Etienne or St, Stephen (PI. A, B, 3), the church of the A6- 
baye-aux-Hommes, founded by William the Conqueror at the same 
date as La Trinity (p. 171). St. Etienne is in the same style as La 
Trinity, though larger, but its unity of style was destroyed by alter- 
ations in the 18th cent., when the choir was rebuilt in the Pointed style. 
It is difficult to obtain a satisfactory view of the church, on account of 
the buildings which hem it in(apse, see p.l73). The W. facade, with two 
elegant towers of the 13th cent., 295 ft. high, is remarkably plain; 
and the interior also, like that of La Trinity, is distinguished by its 
dignified simplicity. The aisles here too are provided with galleries ; 
the N. aisle is adjoined by a Gothic chapel added in the 14th century. 
The transepts are shallow and have no doorways. A lantern-tower 
of the 17th cent, replaces the pyramidal spire, 400 ft. high, which 
formerly surmounted the crossing. A black marble Slab in front of 
the high-altar marks the tomb of William the Conqueror (d. 1087) ; 
but the bones of the monarch were rudely scattered by the Hugue- 
nots in 1562, and again in 1793, so that the tomb is now empty. 
The sacristy, itself an interesting specimen of architecture, contains 
an ancient portrait of the Conqueror. Other noteworthy features are 
the choir-stalls, the carved clock-case in the N. transept, the pulpit, 
and the organ-case, supported by columns. 

Profeasor Freeman writea w follows of thij tiighly intereating church, 
which be deacribea aa perhaps the nobleat and moat perfect work of ita 
time. *The choir has given way to a later creation ; but the nave of Wil- 
liam and Lanfranc la atill there, preciaely auch a nave aa we ahould expect 
to ariae at the bidding of William the Great. Brected at the moment when 
the Bomaneaque of l^ormandy had caat aaide the earlier leaven of Bernay 
and Jumi^gea, and had not yet begun to develop into the more florid 
'^ . « . . ^ ^ Wil" 

atyle of Bayeux and Saint Gabriel, the church of William, vaat in aeale, 
bold and aimple in ita deaign, diadaining ornament, but never ainking into 
rudeneaa, ia indeed a church worthy of ita founder. The minater of Ma- 

bold and aiiaaiple in ita deaign, diadaining ornament, but never ainking into 
rudeneaa, ia indeed a church worthv of ita founder. The minater of Ma- 
tilda (La Trinity ; aee p. 171), far richer, even in ita earlieat parta, amaller 

in aize, more delicate in workmanahip, haa nothing of that aimplicity and 


the other breathea the true apirit of hia loving and faithfnl Dncheas'i 

f;randeur of proportion which marks the work of heY huaband. The one 
a the expreaaion in atone of the imperial will of the conquering Duke; 

Cyormem ConqwtP, Vol. iii, p. 109). ^ r 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

Antiquarian Mm^eurn. CAEN. 23. Route. VI o 

A little to the N. of this point is the former Church of St. Nicolas 
(PI. A, 2), built in 1083-93, and now used for storing hay. The apse 
and transept may he seen from the cemetery. Mr. Fergasson be- 
lieves it to be the only church in Normandy that retains the original 
covering of the apse, consisting of a lofty pyramidal roof of stone. 

The Abbaye-aux-Hommes was rebuilt in the 18th cent., and is 
now occupied by the LycSe Malherbe (PI. A, 3). To reach the facade, 
which is turned away from the church, we retrace our steps to the 
Palais de Justice, and enter the Place du Pare, to the right, where 
there is a bronze Statue of Louis XI V,, by the younger Petitot. From 
this point the admirable apse of St. Etienne (p. 172) is best seen. 

The Lye^e contains several handsome rooms (visitors admitted). The 
Re/eetorv and the Chtxpel are panelled with oak and adorned with paintings. 
The railing of the Main Staircase was executed by a monk.— Another portion 
of the abbey is occnpied by the neighbouring Ecole Normala d^ImtUtUrieei. 

In the Rue de Gaumont, leading £. from the Place du Pare, is 
the Old Church of St, Etienne (PI. B, 3), of the 15th century. No. 33, 
nearly opposite, formerly a Jesuit college, contains the' Antiquarian 
MuBenm (PL B, 3), open to the pubUc on Sun. and Thurs., 2-4, but 
accessible to strangers on other days also. 

Though the collections are not large, they contidn some interesting 
objects, including an antique bronze tripod; Merovingian ornaments, found 
in a tomb near Caen; a goblet called ^William the Conqueror's", but in 
reality an Italian work of the end of the 15th cent.; and embroidered 
chasubles, etc., of the 16th century. 

The Rue St. Laurent, running to the S. from the end of the Rue 
Gaumont, leads to Notre Dame or La Oloriette (PI. B, G, 3), a church 
built by the Jesuits in 1684, and to the Prefecture, 

Opposite the Prefecture is an ancient seminary (17th cent.), now 
occupied as the H6tel de Ville (PI. G, 3). The entrance is on the 
E. side, in the Place de la R^publique (PI. G, 3). The ♦Mus^ in the 
left wing of the H6tel de Ville, is open to the public on Sun. and 
Thurs., 11-4 or 5, other days on application (60 c. ; ring at the door). 

On the staircase : 245. ff. J. Forettier, The burial of William the Con- 
queror interrupted by the former owner of the soil, who had been un- 
justly dispossessed to secure a site for the church (p. iT2); 317. Aba de 
Pujol., Old man with his children. 

Boom I. From right to left, 247. Baron Oirard., Death of Patroclus 
(unfinished); 219. Boudin, Sea-piece; 329. Sauvagey Death of Bishop Gaudry 
of Laon; 230. Courbet, Sea-piece. — 297. Mcdlebranche (of Caen; 1790-1888), 
Snow effect; 261. E. Krilg., Portrait after death of Feyen-Perrin; 248. E. 
Oirixud, Procession of the Circumcision at Cairo. — b38. Tatieffrain^ Sea- 
piece ; 225. E. Btdand, Bestitution to the Virgin ; 215. Binety Landscape ; 
252. Harpiffnies, Hunting (1876). — Above the door, 234. Debon, WUliam 
the Conqueror entering London (1855). — In the centre, 12. Lt/ivre-Detimier, 
Virgil as a child (marble). 

R. II. To the right is a series of portraits. — 273. R. L^btre (of 
Bayeux; 1756-1831), Portrait of the artist; 217. L, Bonnat^ Dr. Tillaux; 345. 
H. Vernet, His brother Eobustien; 333. Arv Scheffer^ Dr. Duval; above, 
French tapestry (I8th cent.) with the Foundation of Carthage, after (3oypel. 
- 316. Prinet, Balcony; 231. Th, Couture., Damocles. — 249. Oiraud^ Por- 
trait of E. M^lingue, the actor. — 302. Q. Miltngue^ Slave- dealers. — In 
the centre is a collection of medals. 

R. III. To the right are modern pictures including, 296. Luminaii, 
The shepherd of Kerlat; 270. LecomU du Noiiy., Contemplation, ToUers of 

174 RouU 23. CAEN. MusSe. 

the Sea, Orientals ^ 341. Thirion^ St. Sdverin; 228. Chartran, The wax-taper^ 
323. 2%. Ribot, The oyster and the litigants. — 126. C.Bega^ Landscape ^ 
85, 84. Boudewym and BouU^ Landscapes ; 137. Mimcheron^ Landscape. — 78. 
/. d'ArthoiSy Landscape^ 177. Parroeel, Sobieski relieving: Vienna; 13S. 
Mopaerty Continence of Scipio; 86. Bosschaerty Portrait; 139. Van Romeyny 
Landscape and animals ; 141. Van der Lamm (not Stevens), Dancing. — 
142. ZustriSy Baptism of Christ; 109. Qudlin the EldeVy The Virgin present- 
ing a stole to St. Hubert ; 12i^. Denner^ Head of an old man ; 144. German 
School of the 16th Cent.y Atropos; 128. Comeli* van Haarleniy Venus and 
Adonis; 83. Van Bloemeny Italian landscape; 135. 04rard de Laireuey Con- 
version of St. Augustine ( 133. Hondecoeter. Hen and chickens; 132. Van 
den Tempel (not Van der Heist), Portrait; 99. B. Flemalhy Adoration of the 
Shepherds; 101. Franck the Younger y Slaves to the passion of love; 95. Ph. 
de Champaigney Head of Christ; *112. Rubens, Bacchanal; 126. A. Boonen 
(?; not F. Bol), Portrait of a magistrate; 97. Van Dyck (?), Communion of 
St. Bonaventura; 103. JordaenSy A beggar ; 114. F. Snydersy Interior of an 
office; nOO. F. FloriSy Portrait (1658); 110. Rubensy Melchisedec and Abra- 
ham; 119. P. de Vos (?), Fight between dogs and a bear; 104. Van der 
Meuleny Passage uf the Rhine; 111. D. Mytent (not Rubens), Portrait, suppos- 
ed to be of James I. of England; Ph. de Champaigne. 92. Vow of Louis XIII., 
94. The Samaritan Woman, 93. Annunciation; *121: School of Bruges of 
the end of the 15th Cent.y Virgin and three .saints. — 79. ''Velvet'' Brueghel and 
Van Baleny Th^ four elements ; above the door, 182. J. Reatouiy Washing 
of the feet. — In the middle, B. Oayrardy Daphnis and Ohloe (marble). 

R. IV. 120. Flemish School of the 17 th Cent.y St: Sebastian ; 13. Cerquotzi{y). 
Gipsies playing cards. — 62. Genoese School of the 17th Cent.y Apollo and 
Marsyas; 47. StrozzL Mercury and Argus; 67. Lombard ScJiool of the 17th 
Cent.y St. Jerome; 41. A. del Sarto (?), St. Sebastian; 30. Paniniy Reception 
of the kuights of the Holy Ghost at Versailles; 68. Neapolitan School of 
the 17th Cent.y Man snapping his fingers; *^. P. Veronese., Judith; Byzantine 
School (on panel), 1. St. Theodore, 2. St. Demetrius; 5. Umhrian School, SS. 
Paul and Kicholas (on panel); 35. PeruginOy St. Jerome; 56. P. Veronesty 
Christ giving the keys of heaven to St. Peter; 18. D. Fetiy Birth of the 
Virgin; 23. Lanfranchiy St. Peter; 39. Rossiy Interior of a cattle-shed. — 
91. Calvaerty St. Sebastian; 50. TintoretiOy The Lord's Supper (sketch); 65. 
Neapolitan School of the 17th Cent., St. Sebastian; 21. Guerdnoy Dido. — 48. 
Ti^olOy Ecce Homo; 49. Tintoretto, Descent from the Cross; 15. Cima da 
Coneglianoy Virgin, St. George, and St. Bochus (tryptych); 11. Cerquotziy 
Flowers; •*84. PeruginOy Marriage of the Virgin; 9. Carpaccio (y). Madonna 
and Child; 54. P. Veronese, Temptation of St. Anthony; 52. Vecchiettay An- 
nunciation; 12. Cerquozziy Fruit; 22. OuercinOy Virgin and Child. — 58. 
VitaJe da BolognOy Madonna; 60. Itcdian School of the 16th Cent., Entomb- 
ment; 56. P. Veronese, Flight into Egypt; 20. Guercino, Coriolanus. — In 
the centre. Marble bust of Roulland, by Guillaume. 

R. V. 82, *81, '80. Van Bloemeny Landscapes. — 74. Ribera (?), 24. Lan- 
franchi. Heads of aoostles. — 76. Zurbaran (?), St. Clara; 89. Brueghel (?), 
Flemish festival; 10. Murillo (?), The Redeemer; 72. School of Ribera, The 
Crown of Thorns. — 173. School of Le Sueur, Christ and the scribes. — 
In the centre, 17. Schoenewerk, Child and tortoise (marble). — From this 
room we ascend to the Collection Mancel (p. 175). 

R. VI. 161. Bourguignon, Batlle- field; 160. Jouvenet, Fr. Romain, the 
architect ; 310. J. Nourryy Portrait of himself; 205. Unknown Master of the 
17th Cent.y Malherbe; 168. Ch. LeBruny Daniel in the lions' den; 145. School 
of Fr. Bouchery Mercury entrusting Bacchus to the nymphs ; 183. Restouty 
Baptism of Christ ; 159. Gallochey Roland discovering the love of Angelica 
and Medoro. — 171. Le Sueury Solomon before the Ark; 176. Oudrpy Dogs 
and boars. — *184. JJ. Rigaudy Marie Cadenne; 153. De Fontenay, Portrait; 
174. /. B. Martin y The siege of Besanjon; 186. ff. Rigaudy Portrait; R. 
Toumiires io( C&en)y 190. Chapelle and Racine, *19 1. Portrait, •192. Audran, 
the engraver, 193. Brodon, the sculptor; 187, 186. H. Rigaud (7)y Portraits; 
181. E. Restout (of Caen), Portrait of a canon of Pr^montrd (comp. p. 75); 
163. S. Julieny Tithonus and Aurora; 170. CI. Lefhvre, Portrait of a magis- 
trate; *I69. Ch. Le BrtMy Baptism of Christ; 175. Nattier (?), Marquis 

Library. CAEN. 23. Route. 175 

d'Argenson. — 162. J. Jouvenei (t) ^ Apollo and Tethys; 179. Pousiiny Death 
of Adonis; 161. J. Jouvmety St. Peter healing the sick. Above the door, 
147. S. Bourdon, Minerva protecting the arts. — In the centre, 5. Etex, 
Kizzia; 15. Moreau'Vauthiery Bather (marbles). 

The *]Cancel Collection on the 2nd floor (open Tnes., Thurs., A Sun. 
1-4) contains a library, engravings (694 by Durer, 248 by Rembrandt, 973 
by Callot), and £ome valuable paintings including: 1. Cotimo Tura (not Man- 
tegna), St. James the Great; 16. A. van Ottade, Tavern scene; 17. S. van 
Ruysdael, Landscape (1661) » 19. Tmiera (?; not C. Saftleven), Slaughtered 
pig; 20. J. Ducky Family concert; 21. L. van Udeny Snow-scene; 22. J. 
WdUcappd, Flowers; 23. Van Dych (?). Portrait (1630); 24. /. WeeniXy Por- 
trait (1688); 26. D'HondecoeUVy Still-life; 32. Vcm Goymy Landscape (1631); 
34. Tenters (not Brouwer), Topers; 37. Bolognese School (not P. van Hoi), 
Death of St. Francis of Assisi; 41. P. van Slingelandt, Portrait; 60. Memling 
(not Hub. van Eyck), Madonna and Child ; 60. Watteauy 'Conversation galante". 

The Library f also in the H6tel de Yille , in part of the formei 
chapel of the seminary, contains about 120,000 vols., 109 incuna- 
bula, and 664 MSS., besides portraits of illustrioas natives of Nor- 
mandy and a copy of the celebrated Bayeux tapestry (p. 164). 

In the Place Gambetta (PI. G, 4),' to the S. of the H6tel de Yille, 
is the modern Oer^darmerie, opposite the facade of which is the Musee 
Langlois (Sun. and Thurs., 11-4), containing paintings by Ool. Lang- 
lois. — Farther to the S. are the fine promenades known as the Cours 
Sadi-Camot (PI. C, D, 4, 5) and the Orand-Cours (band on Sun. & 
Thurs.), which skirt the Prairie in which is the Hippodrome or race- 
course (races on the first Sun., Mon., and Tues. in August). 

About V2 M. to the E., at Rue Basse 201, is the Manoir de NollenV 
or des Qens-d'Armes (PI. 0-, 3; 16th cent.), a picturesque ruined 
edifice, so called from two statues of armed men on the main tower. 
The towers and connecting wall are ornamented with curious old 
medallions, and the main tower still retains a fine grated window. 

The interesting, but somewhat remote Jardin dea FlanieB (PI. B, 1 ; 
open all day) contains numerous hothouses, important herbaria, etc. 

About 2V2M. lo the W. of Caen are the remains of the Ahbave d*Ar- 
dMMty founded in 1121 (fine 14th cent, church) and now incorporated in 
a farm. 

FaoM Cabn to Dives-Caboubo (Trouville). 1. Railwap (20 M., in Vi-lV^br.) 
from the Gare de TOuest vi& (15V» M.) DozuU-Putoty where we join the 
line from Mdsidon (p. 166). — 2. Tramway (I6V2 M., in IV4 hr.) from the 
Boul. St. Pierre (fares 3, 2i/4, 1V« fr) via Binouville (p. 166). 

Fbom Cabn to Falaisb (see also R. 27), 28V2 M., steam-tramway in 
3V4 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 5, i fr. 16, 2 fr. 76 0.). 

From Caen to Gkanvillb. a. Vi& Vire and FoUigny, 82 M., railway 
in 31/2- AVa brs. (fares 16 fr., 10 fr. 15, 6 fr. 65 c). 6V2 M. Verton; 11 M. 
Noyers; ilUL. ViUert-Bocaffe (Hdt. des Trois-Rois). The line now traverses 
the undulating and wooded district known as the Socage. dOV2 M. La 
Betaee (p. 165). From {SS M.) Ouilbervitte a branch-line diverges to (16 M.) 
8t. L6 (p. 162). — 46V2 M. Firs, and thence to (82 M.) GranvUley see pp. 180, 
179. — b. Via Lison and St. Lo, 92 M., railway in 4V3-6*/4 brs. (W fr. 90, 
11 fr. 46, 7 fr. 40 c). To (35V2 M.) LUon^ see pp. 165-1625 thence to (66 M.) 
CwtaneeMy see p. 1^*, thence to (821/2 M.) FoUigny y see p. 177; and thence 
to (92 M.) GranviUey see p. 179. 

From Caen to Lucsur-MeTy see p. 166; to Cherbourg and ParUy see 
R. 22; to Falaieey Alen^on^ and Le Manty see R. 26; to Dom/ronty Mapenne, 
and Lavaly see R. 27. 


zed by Google 


24. From Cherbourg to Brest. 

(QranvilU, Mont 8U Michel, 8t, Malo.) 
261 M. Railway in 13»/z hrs. (fares 51 fr. 95, 88 fr. 95, 28 fr. 60c.J. — 
To QranvilU. changing carriages at Folligny (p. 179), 84 M., in i^U hrs. 
(fares 15 fr. 45, 10 fr. 45, 6 fr. 75 c.). — To Mont St. Michel. BaUway to 
(991/2 M.) Pontorson in 6^2 hrs. (p. 178; fares 19 fr. 95, 14 fr. 95, lOfr. 95 c); 
thence hy steam - tramway or carriage (7 or 5V2 M.^ see p. 199). — To 
St. Malo, changing carriages at Dol (p. 204 { halt of 1 hr. 40 min.), 1271/2 H., 
in 9V2 hrs. (fares 25 fr. 45, 19 fr. 10, 13 fr. 5 c). — Considerable halts at 
one or more intermediate stations on all these routes. 

To (12 M.) Sottevast, see p. 161. — The line diverges to the S., 
trayersing an undulating and wooded .district. 

17 M. "BTieqxiebeefVieux-Chdteau), a small town with an imposing 
ruined Castle of the 14-16th cent., near which rises a hronze statue, 
by Canova, of General Lemarois (1776-1836), a native of the town. 

22V2M. Nihou, — 25 M. .8t. Sauveur-U'Vicomte (H5t. des 
Voyageurs) is commanded by the ruins of a chateau and an abbey, 
dating from the 10-llth centuries. — 33 M. La Haye-du-Puits (H6t. 
du Commerce; Champagne), with an old ruined castle, see p. 162. 

36 M. Angoville-sur-Ay. — 381/2 M.* Lessay, with a flue abbey- 
church (11th cent.), is the station for the small sea -baths of 
St. Oermain-8ur-Ay , 3^/4 M. to the N.W. Narrow-gauge line to 
Coutances, see p. 177. — 441/2 M. Piriers,with an interesting church 
(14-16th cent.). Beyond (48^/2 M.) 8t. Sauveur-Lendelin we join 
the line from Llson (p. 162). 

57 M. Coutances (Buffet; H6U de France, R. from 2V2» D. 3fr.; 
d'Angleterre, D. 3fr. ; de la Oare; du Dauphin), a picturesquely 
situated town with 6824 inhab. and the seat of a bishop, is of 
ancient origin. 

Its name is derived from Confltantius Chlorus, who is believed to have 
fortified it in the third century. It suffered much from the incursions of 
the Normans, as well as subsequently in the English wars. From 1417 
till 1449 it was occupied by the English. The Huguenots captured Cou- 
tances in 1561, 1563, 1565, and 1566. 

The most conspicuous building is the fine Gothic *Caihtdral, 
dating in great part from the 13th cent., with a grand Facade, 
flanked by two towers, and a beautiful central Tower of great bold- 
ness, which forms a fine lantern in the interior. Ruskin singles 
out the W. towers of this church as showing one of the earliest 
examples (if not the very earliest) of the fully developed spire, and 
points out Hhe complete domesticity of the work ; the evident treat- 
ment of the church-spire merely as a magnified house-roof. The 
tower should be ascended both for inspecting it and for the view 
from the top, which embraces St. Malo and the island of Jersey. 

In the interior the chief points of interest include the friforiom and 
the beautiful rose-windows in the nave, the double ambulatory in the 
choir, with its coupled columns, the Gothic high-altar of 1755-57, and some 
Gothic bas-reliefs in the last chapel on the right before the choir. 

Beside the catl^edral is a Monument to Admiral ToUrviUe (1642- 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

AVRANCHES. 24. Route. 177 

1701). A little to theS. E. is the simple and attractive Gothic Oiurch 
of 8t, Pierre, reconstructed after 1494 and containing finely carved 
choir-stalls and some good glass ; and to the N.E. is 8L Nicolas 
(1620-22, with 13th cent, portal)^ another highly interesting church. 
— Behind the small Mus€e is a fine Public Garden, in the suhurb 
beyond which is a ruined Aqueduct of 1232, rebuilt in 1595. 

Froh Coutances to Lessat, ca. 20 M., narrow-gauge railway via TS M.) 
TourvilU, (6 M.) Agon, and the sea-bathing places of CotOainvUU (Ti/zM.; 
Hot. Beau-Rivage), Firou, and Crianee*. 

From (61 1/2 M.) Orval-Hyenville a branch-line runs to RegnSvUle 
(6V2 M.) via the sea-bathing resort oi Monimartirh. Beyond (681/2 M.) 
Quettreville the Sienne is crossed. — 67 M. Cirences (p. 179). 

741/2 M. Folligny (buffet) is the junction of the line from Paris 
to Granville (R. 25). — Beyond (82 M.) Montviron-Sartilly we catch 
a glimpse of Mont St. Michel to the right. The See is crossed. 

85V2 ^* Ayranches. — Hoteli. Gband-Hotel ds Fbamob et de 
L0NDBB8, B. 3-5, D. 372 fr., good; D'AMOLETEKaB, B. 3, D. 3Vsfr., good; 
BoMMEAU, DB l'Odbst, at the station, B. 2, D. 3 fr. — Cafi du Grand 
Balcon, Bue de la CSonstitution. — OmmbuM from the station 45 c, at night 
60 c, with luggage 60 or 80 c. Electric Tramway from the Gare de TOuest 
to the Gare St. James, 30 c. (down 10 c.)- 

English Ohuroh(iS(t Michaa's), Bue Bouillant, services at 10.30 and 6-, 
chaplain, Eev. A. C. Bates. 

Avranckes, one of the oldest towns in Normandy, with 7360 in- 
hab., is picturesquely situated on a hill on the left bank of the See^ 
commanding an exquisite and justly famed ♦View of the Bay of St. 
Michel. The direct footpath to the town ascends to the right from 
the station, but carriages must make a detour to the left. 

The name of the town is derived from the Abrineatui, who are men- 
tioned by Pliny. The bishopric of Avranches was probably founded in the 
6th century. From 1421 till 1450 the town was occupied by the English. 
Avranches suffered severely at the hands of the Huguenots; and in 1591 
it stubbornly resisted the troops of Henri IV, on the ground that he was 
a Protestant. In July, 1629, the revolt of the Nu-Piedt, or armed rising 
of the peasantry against the ^Gabelle', broke out at Avranches. The rising 
was put down with relentless cruelty. 

Avranches at one time possessed a beautiful Norman-Gothic 
cathedral, but this was destroyed in 1790, and only a few shapeless 
ruins in front of the Sous-Prefecture are left to recall it. An inscrip- 
tion on a broken column indicates the spot where Henry II. of 
England did humble penance in 1172 for the murder of Thomas 
Becket. The Place commands a fine view. The Public Garden, to the 
right, farther on, contains a marble statue, by Cartellier, of General 
Valhubert (1764-1805), who was born at Avranches. The new 
Palaia de Justice replaces the old one (originally the Bishop's Palace), 
which was burned down in 1899. Notre-Dame-des-Champs (fine 
stained-glass windows) and St, Satumin are modern Gothic churches ; 
St. Gervais, nearer the centre of the town, dates from the 17th century. 
The interesting Jardin des Plantes (good view) is entered from the 
W. side of the square in front of Notre-Dame. 

Narrow-gauge railway to OranviUe and Sourdeval, see p. 179. 

Baedekek's Northern France. 5th Edit. Digitized by OSoglc 

178 RouU26. GRANTILLE. 

Beyond Ayranches the railway recrosses the S^e , and beyond 
(90 M.) Pontaubault it crosses the 8£lunt by a lofty bridge (branch- 
line to Virt via Moriain^ see p. 180). — 95 M. Sefnon-Tanis. 

991/2 M. Fontorson. Pontorson and Mont St. Bfichel, see p. 199. 
Railway to Fouglrea and Vitri^ see p. 223. 

Our line crosses the river Couesnon^ the boundary between Nor- 
mandy and Brittany. — 113 M. Dol (Buffet)^ the junction of the 
line f^om St. Malo to Rennes (see p. 204). At (121 M.) Miniac- 
Morvan a branch-line diverges to La Gouesni^re-Cancale (see p. 202). 
Beyond (124 M.) Pleudihen and again beyond (1261/2 M.) La Hisse 
the railway crosses the picturesque valley of the Ranee (p. 201) by 
viaducts, 100 ft. in height. 

I3OV2 M. Dinan, see p. 202. 

136 M. Cor8eulf9.n important strategic point held by the Romans, 
is identified with the capital of the Curiosilites or the Fanum Martis 
of the Theodosian Itinerary. — 1411/2 M. Plancott (H6t. des Voya- 
geurs), pleasantly situated in the valley of the Arguenon. 

From Plancoet a diligence plies to the K. to (6 M.) St. Jaeut-de-la-Mer, 
while a narrow-gauge railway runs to the IT.W. to (12 M.) Ile-St-Cast 
(56 min. ^ 1 fr. 46 c, 1 fr.). — St. Jacut-de-la-lCer (H6t. des Baint; Convent 
Fension) is a small seaport and bathing-resort, near which are the Pierr€$ 
Sonnantes de St. Jacut^ rocks which emit a resonant note when struck. — 
The narrow-gauge railway passes (4V2 M.) Le OuUdo^ near the picturesque 
ruined Chdteau de Quildo^ and (8 H.) Matignon (Hot. desVoyageurs). lOVs H. 
St. Cast is the stotion for La Oarde-Bt-Oast (H6t. de la Plage; Betttvue)^ 
a rising bathing-place with a sandy beach. To the N.W. of St. Cast are 
the old Fort de la Latte and the Cap FriMy vvith fine cliff scenery (steamer 
from St. Malo, see p. 194). 12 H. Ile-St-Ca*t lies near the Pointe de St. Cast. 

1481/2 M. Landibia, The train now traverses a wood. 

156 M. Lamballe, and thence to Brest, see pp. 224-229. 

25. From Granville to Paris. 

204 M. Bailwai (Chemin deFer de POueet^ Rive Oauehe) in 6*/4-10 hrs. 
(fares 86 fr. 86, 24 fr. 90, 16 fr. 26 c). Bestaurant-cars (see p. xvU). — To 
Mont St. Michel, see p. 179. Oomp. the Map, p. 66. — From SotUhampton 
yi& Jereey to Oranvilky see p. ziv. 

Ghranyille. — Hotels. Gband-HStbl, Bue Couraye 10, at the begin- 
ning of the lower town, B. from 8, B. IVa, d^j. 8, D. 872, pens, from 8V«, 
omn. i/t fr., well spoken of; Grand -MdTBL du Xoro bt dbs Tbou- 
CouBONMES, Bue Lecampion, in the lower town, near the harbour, B. 
from 8, B. I1/4, d^j. 8, D. 3^2, pens, from 9, omn. V< f^*; HdT. dbs Baimb, 
Bue des Juifs. near the beach; Houllegattb, Bue dn CourS'Jonville 26, 
B. 2V2-3V2* d6j. 3, D. 3% pens. 7»/2-8Vs, omn. V«fr'i i>" Paeis, Bue du 
Cours-Jonville 9, B. from 2V2, D. 2V2, pens. V/2, omn. Vt fr. ; Gautiek, 
Bue du Calvaire; d'Akgletebbb, Bue Couraye 73, B. 272-6, pens. 7-10, 
omn. 3/4 fr. — JRestawant du Casino, with terrace on the sea, d^j. 3. D. 4 fr. 
(incl. wine and adm.), good ; others at the hotels. — Cc^/i de la Ville (with 
theatre), du Commerce, de V Union, all in the Bue Lecampion. 

Oabs. Per drive, 1-3 pers.. 1 fr., per hr. 2 fr.; each addit. pers. 25 or 
60 c. — Motor Omnibus Excursions in summer. 

Steamers daily in summer to the (1 hr.) lies Chausey (return-fare 3 fr.); 
less often to Bt. Malo (p. 194; return 6 fr.) and Cancale (p. 199; return 6 fr.). 
— To Jersey (Southampton), see p. xiv. 

Pott ft Telegraph Oftoe, Bue Lecampion 9. 


zed by Google 

GRANVILLE. U. Route. 179 

Sea-Baths. Bathing-box 30, costume 50, 'peignoir^ 20, towel 10 c. — 
Casino (open Jane 25tli-Oct. 1st). Adm. 1 fr. \ subs, for a week 8, fortnight 15, 
season 30 fr. 

GranvilUy a small fortified seaport, with 11,940 inhab., at the 
mouth of the Bosq, is said to have been originally founded in 
the 12th century. The English fortified it in 1640 but lost it 
the following year. They burned it in 1695 and bombarded it 
in 1803. It consists of two distinct parts, viz, the lower town, 
the larger half, between the station and the harbour, and the upper 
town, perched on a steep rock extending into the sea and surround- 
ed by the old fortifications. The street beginning at the station 
leads to the Gours JonviUe, whence the Rue Lecampion descends, 
to the left, to the Harbour^ which is frequented by numerous fish- 
ing-boats and a few coasting-vessels. A street diverging from the 
Cours Jonville a little farther on leads to the beach (see below). 

The upper town, reached directly from the harbour, commands 
a fine view. The Church of Notre-Dame was enlarged and restored 
in the Gothic style in the 15-16th centuries. The interior is of 
irregular proportions. A path to the N.E., outside the fortifications, 
leads down to the Beach^ on the opposite side of the town from the 
harhour. The path passes at the end through the ^Tranchie aux 
Anglai8\ a narrow passage between two rocks, beyond which is the 
firm sandy beach with the Casino. The women of Granville wear a 
picturesque headdress of white linen. 

From Granville to Conde-sdr-Vire (p. 163), new narrow-gauge railway 
via (2 M.) Donville (Hdt. de la Plage^ D. 2, pens, from 71/2 fr. ; Fanny M4quin), 
a sea-bathing resort, (Mrences (p. 177), Perq/^ and Tessy-»ur-Vire. 

From Grakvillb to Avbanches. — a. By Railway vi& FoUigny, 2OV2M., 
in I-IV* hr. (fares 3 fr. 80, 2 fr. 55, 1 fr. 70 c), see below and p. 177. — 
b. By Narrow-gauge Railway, 21 V2 M., in 2 hrs. (2 fr. 70 c, 2 fr.). — 4V2 M. 
Si, Pair (H6t. des Bains \ de France), an inexpensive bathing-resort, with a 
good beach but a far-receding fide. 7 M. Jvllouville (Casino-H6tel 5 Chevalier), 
another sea-side resort. — 8'Aj M. OaroUes (ff6t. Benit, pens. 6 fr. ; des Bains) 
is a village on the top of a cliff, with a good beach below (1 M. away). 
Omn. to Montviron-SartiUy (p. 177). — IIV2 M. 8L Jean-le-Thoinaa. — 15V2 M. 
Qenits. Walkers may cross the bay to Mont St. Michel (p. 199) in less than 
an hour (carr. and pair, 2V2 fr. each pers.). — 2IV2 M. AvranchtSy see p. 177. 

— This line is continued to (23V2 M. from Avranches) Sourdeval (p. 180). 

From Granville to Mont St. Michel. 1. Railway to (34V2 M.) Pon- 
torson and thence tramway to (5V2 M.) Mont St. Michel (p. 199) \ 2V4-3 hrs. 
in all (return-fares, incl. tramway, 8 fr. 75, 6 fr. 70, 4 fr. 85 c). — 2. Railway 
to (9y2 M.) FolUgny^ see below j thence to Mont St. Michel^ see pp. 177, 
178, 199. — 3. In the season an omnibus plies direct from Granville via 
GenSta (see above) to Mont St. Michel (return-fare 6 fr.). 

From Granville to Caen^ see p. 175. 

On quitting Granville the railway ascends the valley of the Bosq. 

— 5 M. 8t. Planchers, To the left the line to Coutances (p. 176). 

91/2 M. FoUigny (Buffet,- Hotels^ near the station). 

Railway to doutances, Pontorson (Mont St. Michel), etc., see pp. 177, 178. 

We cross the pretty valley of the Aitou. ^~ I8V2 M. Villedieu- 
les-PoileSj a small town on the Sienne^ to the right, contains num* 
erous boiler- works. The church dates from the 15-16th centuries. 

About 6 M. to the N.W. are the ruins of the Abbey 0/ Hambye. 

12 ♦ 

180 Route 25. VIRE. From OranvilU 

261/2 M. St Sever (Hot. des Voyageurs), to the right, with an 
abbey-church, part of which dates ^rom the 13th century. — Farther 
on we cross the Vire (see below). 

32 M. Vire (Buffet ; H6t. 8t. Pierre, ChevaL Blanc, at both R. 
from 2, D. 3, pens, from 8V2 ^r.), an old town with 6353 inhab., 
picturesquely situated on a hill washed by the river of the same 
name, is an important woollen -manufacturing centre and carries 
on trade in the granite quarried in the neighbourhood. 

The long Rue du Galyados ascends to the right from the station 
to the town. At the top (^2 M.) , in the Rue aux F^vres (to the 
right), is the square Tour de CHorloge, with a Gothic gateway of 
the 13th cent., flanked by two round crenelated towers. 

To the left, near the end of the Rue de la Saulnerie, rises the 
Church of Notre-Bame, a Gothic structure of the 12-16th cent., with 
double aisles and a central tower. In the interior are a tasteful 
Renai3sance doorway and some noteworthy carvings. 

The adjoining Place Nationale is embellished with a bust of 
Chtnedolle (1769-1833), a native poet, and with a Monument to 
1789, consisting of a column with a statue of the Republic. 

The scanty ruins of the Chdteau, which is said to have been 
founded by Charlemagne, occupy a picturesque situation on the brow 
of a rocky peninsula, dominating the charming valley of the Vire. 

In this valley in the 15tli cent, dwelt Olivier Basselin, the fuller, to 
whom are attributed the famous drinking-songs, which, known as 'Vaux 
de Vire', gave origin to the modern term 'Vaudeville'. The real author 
was Jean le Houx, who flourished at the close of the i6th century. 

This part of the town, called the Valh^rel, possesses the hand- 
some modern Norman Church of St. Anne, with a central tower. 
Paintings and numerous statues adorn the choir and apse. 

The Rue Armand-Gaste', leading hence to the upper town, passes 
through the Place de rH6tel-de-Ville, in which rise a bronze statue, 
byDebay, of Castel (1758-1832), another native poet of Vire, and a 
crenelated Tower. — The Hdtel de Ville contains a Library and a 
small MusSe (Sun. & Thurs. 2-4; on other days on application) 
of paintings, coins, porcelain, carvings, antiquities, curiosities, etc. 

A branch-railway runs from Vire to (251/2 M.) Romagny vi& (16 H.) 
Sourdeval (Poste), a small industrial town (thence to Avranches, see p. 179), 
and (23 M.) Mortain-le-Neufbourg, IV4 M. to the X.W. of Mortain. — Kortain 
(Po»te, E. 2-5, pens. 7i/j-9 fr., good -, de la Crotx-Blanche) is a picturesquely 
situated little town, on a rooky eminence rising from the Cance. The Church 
of St. EvrouU is an interesting example of the 13th century. The rocky 
valley of the Gance is attractive, especially above Mortain, at the Petit 
aimifMire^ the andent Abbaye Blanche (1161-81). A good view is obtained 
from the Chapelle St. Michel^ on a neighbouring hil}. From Romagny to 
Domfront^ see p. 189. — The line proceeds to the W. vi& (36 M.) St. Hilaire- 
du-ffarcouit (branch to Fougeres, p. 238), and joins the railway to Avranches 
at (51 M.) Pontaubault (p. 178). 

Fine view of Vire, to the right, as we quit the station. — 46 M. 
Montsecret' Vassy, 

A branch-railway runs hence to (6 M.) Tinchebray (H6t. du Lion-d'Or; 
de la Pie), a small industrial town (8952 inhab.), with manufactures of 

to ParU ARGENTAN. 26. Route. 181 

hardware. At the battle of Tinchebray in 1106 Henry I. of England 
defeated and captured his elder brother Robert Curthose, Duke of Normandy. 

53 M. Flers (Buffet; Hdtel de VOuest; du Oroa-Chene, at the 
station; des Jumellea), a modern cotton-manufacturing town with 
13,704 inhabitants. The Chdteau, part of which dates from the 
16th cent., was restored in 1901 and is now used as the town -hall. 

Flera is also a station on the railway from Caen to Laval (see p. 188). 

6OV2 M. Messei (see p. 188). -— 63 M. Briouze (Poste), a little 
town carrying on a trade in cattle and granite. 

Fkom Bbioczb to Codtkbnk, I8V2 M., railway in i-Pf* hr. (fares 
3 fr. 85, 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 60 c). — B'/j M. Lonlay-U-Tatony with an ahbey- 
charch of the 11th and 16th cent.; 8Vz M. La FirU-Maei (Hdt. da Grand 
Turc, B. lV«-2, D. 3 fr.; du Cheval-Noir) , a vUlage with 6488 Inhab., 
carrying on the manufaetare of ticking. — IS^/x H. Bagaoles-de-rOme 
^H6t. de FEtablistement-Thermal, pens, from 16 fr., *0ranA-H6M^ pens, from 
Wft fr., both first-class; H6t. dt ParU; de la Terraste; Pasguierj Villa 
Beau-aUe; Villa 81. Fran^oit^ kept by nuns), a hamlet situated in a deep 
rocky gorge on the Vie^ a tributary of the Mayenne. It possesses a sul- 
phurous thermal spring, with sedative properties, beneficial in cases of 
phlebitis, and a cold chalybeate spring. A casino, a park, a lake, and 
pretty walks are among the attractions. — 18>^ M. Couterne^ see p. 215. 

Attractive and extensive view to the right. — 75 M. Ecouchi, 
beyond which the monotonous plain melts into a pleasant and 
undulating country, with meadows and woods. — The line crosses 
the Ome and follows the valley of that river. 

81 M. Argentan (^Buffet; Hdtel des Trois-MarieSj de Normandie^ 
R. 2-3, D. 3 fr., both in the Rue de la Chauss^e), the Gallic Argento- 
diiniim, is a town with 6387 inhab., situated on the Orne. The *Church 
of 8t. Qermairif reached by the Rue de la Chauss^e, dates from the 
late-Gothic and Renaissance periods. The W. tower is crowned by a 
Renaissance dome, and the tower over the crossing forms a fine in- 
ternal lantern. The nave contains two galleries, with balustrades, 
and the transepts terminate in apses. The ambulatory is in the 
Renaissance style. The vaulting, the choir-screen, the altars in the 
choir and S. transept, and the organ should be noticed. 

Near the church, to the S., stands the Hdtel de Ville^ near which, 
to the right, are a ruined donjon, and, to the left, the old Qidteau 
(16th cent.), now used as the Palais de Justice. In front of the last 
is a small square, embellished with a monument in honour of MSzerai 
(1610-83), the historian, Ch. Eudes d'Houay (1611-99), the surgeon, 
and Jean Eudes (1601-80), founder of the Eudistes. To the right 
of the palais is the old church of 8t. Nicolas (ca. 1600) ; to the left 
is the promenade known as the Cours, 

The Rue du Griffon, diverging from the Rue de la Ghauss^e near 
St. Germain, leads to the other side of the town, where are situated 
the large round Tour Marguerite, with a peaked roof, a relic of the 
fortifications, and the Gothic church of 8t. Martin, in which, however, 
the gallery and the balustrade beneath the windows are in the Re- 
naissance style. 

Argentan is also a station on the railway from Caen (Falaise) to Aim- 
(on and Le Mans (see R. 26). — Diligence to (15 M.) Carrouget (p. 215). 

182 Route 25. LAIGLE. From Granville 

From (88 M.) Almeneches a diligence plies to the village of 
MortrSe, 3'/2 M. to the S., near which are the Chdteau d'O^ a magni- 
ficent edifice of the Renaissance, and the Chdteau de Clerai^ of a 
somewhat later period. The railway now crosses the Orrie, 

9072 M. Surdon (huflfet). Railway to Alen^on, etc., see R. 26. — 
Beyond (96^/2 M.) Nonarit-le-Pin the train passes, on the left, 8t. Ger- 
main- de- Claire feuille^ the church of which (14- 15th cent.) con- 
tains some fine, though mutilated, wood-carving, and several antique 
paintings upon panel. 99*/2 M. Le Merlerault (H6t. du Lion-d'Or), 
a great horse-hreeding centre. — 106 M. Ste, Gauburge (huffet). 

A branch-railway runs hence to (22Va M.) Mortagne (p. 216), via (12 M.) 
Solignp - la ' Trappe , 21/2 M. to the N.E. of which is the monastery of La 
Trappe or La Grande Trappe^ in a wild situation near several ponds, 
but otherwise uninteresting (men only admitted). The monastery, founded 
in the 12th cent., was most famous under the Abb^ de Banc^ (d. 1700), who 
introduced the rule of strict silence, hard work, and plain fare. Bxpelled 
at the Revolution, the monks returned in 1815 ( and in 1833 the new 
monastery and church were consecrated. The Romanesque chapel was 
added in 1892. 

Branches from Ste. Gauburge to Bernay and to Le Metnil-Maugar^ see 
pp. 167, 165. 

The railway continues to descend the valley of the Risle^ and 
crosses the river twice. 

116 M. Laigle (Buffet; Hot. de V Aigle-d' Or ; du Dauphin), an in- 
dustrial town with 5242 inhab., situated on the Risle, manufactures 
needles, pins, buckles, etc. The Gothic church of 8t. Martin, near 
the railway, to the left, has a handsome tower (15th cent.). 

A branch runs from Laigle to (25»/2 M.) Mortagne (p. 215), vift the For 61 
du Perche and (14V« M.) Tourouvre. — To Conchet (Evreux), see p. 167. 

• We cross the Risle and beyond the two branch-railways mentioned 
above traverse the Forest of Laigle. 125 M. Bourth. 

13072 M. Vemenil (H6t. du Commerce, D. 3 fr. ; du Saum^n, 
R. 2-4, D. 3 fr.), a town with 4446 inhab., was fortified in the 
12th cent, by Henry I. of England. The battle of Vemeuil, fought 
in 1424 between the English under the Duke of Bedford and the 
French, resulted in the defeat of the latter. The church of La 
Madeleine, a remarkable edifice of the ll-17th cent., has a lofty and 
elegant Gothic *Tower of 1506-30, to the left of which Is a poor porch, 
still bearing the inscription ^Temple de la Raison'. 

Iktebiob (recently restored). Above the Gothic arches of the nave are 
round arches. SeveriU of the stained-glass windows and various works of 
art date from the 15th and 16th cent., while some of the more modern 
works are noteworthy. Choir-stalls of the 16th cent. ; interesting iron pulpit. 

In the street to the left as we quit the church is a House of the 
15th Cent, vnth a turret displaying a chequered pattern in stone, 
brick, and flint. The Rue du Canon leads thence to the church of 
St. Lawrence (partly 16th cent.) and the Tow Grtse, an ancient keep 
148 ft. high (small museum ; fee). — The church of Notre-Dame 
(12-16th cent.) contains a number of interesting sculptures, and 
has also some good stained glass. — The Tour St. Jean, dating 
partly from the 15th cent., belongs to a secularized^church. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

to Paris. DREUX. 25. Route. 183 

The branch-line from Evreux (p. 167) is continued beyond Vernenil to 
(24 M.) La Loupe, via (IO1/2M.) LaFerti- Vidame-Lamblore and (18 M.) Senonches. 

13672 M. Tillilres, with a 16th cent, church with elaborate 
vaulting, and (143V2 M.) Nonancourt are both on the Avre, a tribut- 
ary of the Eure. "We traverse a pastoral district, dotted with manu- 
factories, and cross the Avre before reaching (147 M.) St-Germain- 

163 M. Drenx (Buffet; H6tel du Paradis, Grande- Rue 51, R. 
from 21/2, B. 1, dej. ^3/4, D. 3, pens. 9-13, omn. 1/2 ^'r.; de France, 
Rue St. Martin 24, R. from 3, B. 3/^, dtfj. 23/4, D. 3, pens. 8-10, 
omn. 1 fr., good], with 9928 inhab., is situated on the Blaise, a 
tributary of the Eure, at the base of a hill on which rise the ruined 
castle and the Ohapelle Royale. 

Dreux is a place of high antiquity. ELnown to the Romans as Duro- 
eassis or Drocae, in the territory of the Carnutes, it was annually the scene 
of a great meeting of the Gauls. In the middle ages it gave name to a 
famous family of counts, which, however, became extinct in 1378. In 
1562 the Roman Catholics under the Due de Guise defeated the Protestants 
in a most sanguinary battle near Dreux, and captured their leader, the 
Prince of Condd. In 1580, and again in 1593, Henri IV besieged the town ; 
and on the second occasion he destroyed the castle. The Germans made 
themselves masters of the town in l^ov., 1870, after a short resistance. 

Quitting the station and crossing the river, we soon reach the 
Place Mitizeau, named in honour of two famous architects of Dreux, 
who flourished in the 16th and 17th centuries. 

The Church of St. Pierre, of the 13-1 5th cent., shows traces of 
the handiwork of the M^t^zeaus. Only one of its two towers has 
been finished (in the 16th cent.; 118 ft.) and the "W. and N. doors 
are much weathered. The Lady Chapel and the chapels of the aisles 
contain some good old stained glass (restored). In the right transept 
is a fine organ-case, designed in 1614 by Clement M^t^zeau. 

The Hdtel de Ville, which resembles a large square donjon, 
was built between 1502 and 1537 and illustrates the transition from 
the mediaeval to the Renaissance style. The facade (restored) on the 
side farthest from the Place is flanked by two projecting turrets at the 
angles, and is embellished with blind arcades and elaborate carving 
round the door and windows. The staircase and the vaulting in the 
interior should be noticed. At the top of the tower is a beU of 1561 
in a framework of the same period. 

. The route hence to the Chapelle Royale follows the Grande-Rue 
(to the left, the Hospital Chapel, of the 17th cent., and at No. 27 a 
.16th cent, house), then (left) the Rue aux Tanneurs (leading to the 
modern Palais de Justice) and (right) the Rue du Palais ; Anally 
-we follow a lane behind the Palais de Justice and pass through a 
small gateway to the left. The remains of the Castle, part of which 
is seen as we ascend, are insignificant. The Chapelle occupies part 
of the outer ward, which has been converted into a fine public promr 
enade (open daily till 6 p.m. in summer, 4 p.m. in winter). 

It is advisable to examine the exterior of the chapel before applying 
at the gate for admission (fee). The visitor should not hurry over his 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

184 Route 25. DREUX. From GranviUe 

inspection of the interior, especially as lie quits the building by a side- 
door in the crypt, without returning to the nave. — Mass on Sun. at 10 a.m. 

The "'Ghapellb Rotale, or ChapelU 8t. LouiSy is a handsome and 
highly interesting erection, in spite of the medley of architectural 
styles which it presents. It was begun in 1816 by the Dowager 
Dnchess of Orleans, mother of Louis Philippe, and enlarged and 
completed by her son as a burial-place for the Orleans family. 
The principal part of the chapel, and the first built, is the rotunda, 
80 ft. high , crowned by a dome 43 ft. in diameter. The nave, 
the apse, and the transepts, which were afterwards added so as to 
form a Greek cross, are all very short. The strange appearance of 
the pile is heightened by four balustrades which run round the out- 
side of the dome, one above the other. On either side of the main 
entrance is an octagonal turret, in open stone-work; and the portal 
itself is lavishly ornamented with sculptures, representing the Angel 
of the Resurrection, the Eternal Father, Ecce Homo, St. Louis beneath 
the oak-tree at Yincennes, the Apostles (on the door), etc. 

The Intebiob is even more gorgeous than the exterior. The first ob- 
jects to attract attention in the part of the church used for service are 
the magnificent *Stained Window*. In the JTaw^ to the right, Christ in 
Gethsemane and St. Arnold washing the feet of pilgrims; to the left, 
Crucitizion and St. Adelaide giving alms, after ZaHm'^6 ; in the Tranuptt^ 
Twelve saints, after Ingres ; in the cupola, Descent of the Holy Ghost, 
after Lorivihre. Many of the sculptures, which are unfortunately difficult 
to see, are fine \ they include statues and bas-reliefs. — The funeral monu- 
ments are arranged in the Apse, to which steps descend behind the altar. 
At the sides are marble statues, by JPradier^ above the tombs of the young 
Due de Penthi^vre and of a young Princesse de Montpensier. At the foot 
of the steps is the monument of Louis Philippe (d. 1^50) and his consort, 
Marie Amilie (d. 1866), with a group of the deceased by Merdd. To the 
right is the tomb of the Princess Marie^ Duchess of Wiirtemberg (d. 1839), 
with her effigy, by Lemaire, and a statue of the Angel of Resignation, 
sculptured by herself; then the tombs of the Duke of Orlians (d. 18^, with 
a statue by Loison., after Arp Seheffer^ of the Duchess of Orlians (Helena of 
Mecklenburg-Schwerin •, d. 1868), with a statue by ChapUj and the Princess of 
Salerno (d. 1881), mother-in-law of the Due d'Aumale, with a statue by 
A. Lenoir. To the left of the altar rest Mme. Adelaide (d. 1847), sister of Louis 
Philippe, with a statue by A. Millet (1877), and the Dowager Duchess of Orlians 
(d. 1821), foundress of the chapel, with a statue by the younger Barre. There 
are other tombs in the ambulatory, some unoccupied and some without 
monuments. Among the statues here the most noteworthy are those of 
two youthful Princes de Montpensier, by Millet; and the charming group 
by Franceschi, marking the grave of two children of the Comte de Paris. 
The Duchesse d'Aumale (d. 1869; statue by Lenoir) and the Due d'Avmale 
(d. 1897) are also interred here. — On each side steps lead down to the 
Crypt proper. The four magnificent *Stained Windows^ representing scenes 
from the life of St. Louis, were designed by Eouget, Jacquant, E. Delacroix^ 
E. Wattier^ ff. Vernet^ Bouton^ and H. Flandrin. Most of the five other 
*8tained Windows in the passages, representing scenes from the Passion, 
were designed by Lariviire. All the stained glass used in the ch^)el was 
made at Sevres. — The large crypt beneath the rotunda and the smaller 
one beneath the sanctuary contain other tombs and funeral urns. 

After the circuit of the promenades has been made and the 
views enjoyed, there is little more to be seen at Dreux. In the square 
at the end of the Grande-Rue is a bronze statue, by J. J. Allasseur, 
of RotroUj the dramatic poet (1609-50), who was born at Dreux. 


zed by Google 

to Paris. ST. CYR. 25. Route. 185 

A branch-railway runs from Dreux through the valley of the En re to 
(17 M.) Maintenon^ passing (IOV2 M.) Nogent-U-Roi, near which 10 Coulombs^ 
with the rains of a Romanesque abbey. 

From Drenx to Chariret (Orldans) and to Bueil and Rotten^ see pp. 140, 139. 

The river Eure is crossed. 160 M. MarchezaU-Broue, — The 
castle at (164 V2 M.) Houdan (H6t. du Plat-d'Etain, R. 2, D. 3 fr.), of 
which the donjon and a round tower with fonr turrets still stand, 
also helonged to the counts of Montfort. It was built in 1105-37; 
the Gothic church dates from the 11th century. 

1751/2 M. Montfort-VAmaury. The town (H6t. des Voyageurs), 
which lies about I3/4 M. to the left of the station, contains an interest- 
ing church of the 15-16th cent., and the ruined castle (10th cent.) 
of the Comtes de Montfort, which was the birthplace of Simon de 
Montfort, the able though cruel leader in the campaign against the 
Albigenses and the father of the famous Earl of Leicester. 

179 M. VilUers - Neaupkte, At Pontel, near Neauphle, is the 
17th cent. Chdteau de PontchaHrain. — 183 M. Plaisir-Orignon. 
Orignon possesses a well-known Agricultural Institute, established 
in a fine chateau of the 17th century. — Branch to (10 M.) Epdne- 
Mezilres (p. 125) through the pretty valley of the Mauldre, via 
Maule, with an old church and a 17th cent, chateau. 

190 M. 8t. Cyr-VEcoUj famous for its military school, founded in 
1806, numhering 760-800 cadets between the ages of 16 and 20. The 
huilding, which is well seen from the train (to the right), was originally 
occupied by a school for daughters of the nohility, founded by Mme. 
de Maintenon, and for these 'Demoiselles' Racine wrote his dramas 
of 'Esther' and 'Athalie'. Railway to Rennes, see R. 30. 

Before reaching (193 M.) Versailles (see Baedeker's Paris) we 
see the fortified plateau of Satory on the right and the palace and 
park of Versailles on the left. Tunnel. — 198 M. Bellevue is the 
only station between VersaiUes and Paris at which the trains stop. 

204 M. Paris, 

26. From Caen to Le Mans vid Alen9on. Falaise. 

103VsM. Railway in 3»/4-5V2 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 80, 12 fr. 75, 8 fr. 25 c.). To 
Alenfon, 69 M., in 2V2-3V2 hrs. (fares 12 fr. 55, 8 fr. 40, 5 fr. 46 c); to 
Falaise, 82 M., in IV8-IV4 i»r. (fares 5 fr. 80, 8 fr. 96, 2 fr. 65 c). 

Caen, see p. 169. Our train follows the Paris railway to (15 M.) 
Mezidon (p. 165^, then turns to the S. and ascends the valley of 
the Dives. — 19'/2 M. St, Pierresur-Dives (H6t. du Dauphin ; de 
France), a small town to the left, possesses a Gothic abbey-church 
with three fine towers, one of which is a relic of an earlier Norman 
building. — 26V2 M. Coulihoeuf. 

Fbom CouLiBiEUF TO Falaise, 5V2M., branch-railway ia IBmin., meeting 
at Falaise another branch from Berjou-Cahan (p. 188; 18V2M.). 

FaUiae. — Hotels. De Normandie, Rue Amiral-Courbet, E. 2-4, pens. 
7-10 fr. i df/ Orand-Cer/y Ene de Caen, E. 2-5, pens. 9-13 fr. ; de la Croix- 
Verte, Eue de la Pelleterie; de la Qare, Eoute de Tours — Tramway round 
the town and the castle (affording fine views). ^ , 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

186 Route 26. FALAISE. From Caen 

Falaise^ a tawn with 7014 inbab., is picturesquely situated on a rocky 
height, on the right hank of the Ante, a small affluent of the Dives. 
William the Conqueror was horn here in 1027. His mother was tiie 
daughter of a simple tanner of Falaise, who won the he&rt of Robert the 
Magnificent, also called Robert the Devil, sixth Duke of Normandy. Wil- 
liam^s successors, the kings of England, remained in more or less peace- 
able possession of the town until 1450, when it was Anally captured by 
Charles VII. of France. Falaise underwent one siege more in 1590, when 
it was occupied by the Leaguers and retaken by Henri IV. 

From the station the Rue d^Areentan leads to tbe left to the suburb 
of Gulbray (see below) and on the right descends to the Place St, Gervais. 
The Church of St. Oervait is a Norman and Gothic edifice, the most 
noteworthy feature of which is the 6ne Norman tower above the tranaepi. 
In the interior we notice the bosses of the choir and chapels, and the 
balustrade under the windows of the choir. The Church of the IWni^, 
reached by the street of that name on the other side of the Place 
St. GervaiSi is a handsome structure of the 14-15th cent., with a Renais- 
sance W. front, consisting of an ancient triangular porch converted into 
a chapel. The choir possesses a fine arcaded balustrade like that at 
St. Gervais. — A few paces farther on is an ^Uquestrian Statu» of William 
the Conqueror^ in bronze, by Rochet, erected in l861. Round, the base are 
btonse figures of the first six dukes of Normandy. Adjacent stands the 
Hotel de ViUe^ to the right of which passes the street leading to the castle. 

The Castle of Falaiae, a picturesque Norman ruin dating back to the 
10th cent., is finely situated on a ragged promontory jutting out over 
the valley, opposite another rocky height named the Mont Mirat. During 
the middle ages it was a fortress of great strength and importance. The 
remains include the outer Enceinte^ strengthened with round towers of 
the 12th cent, and now enclosing the buildings of a college ^ the Do9U<m 
or Keepy of 1123, a massive Norman structure measuring 65 ft. in height 
and the same in breadth; and TalboVs Tower, a round tower ISO ft. high, 
added by the English in 141S^. The interior of the donjon, which is 
shown by the concierge, is interesting only for the view over the valley. 
The dun{!eon in which King John Lackland is said to have con6ned his 
nephew Arthur of Brittany is also shown. The top (to which, however, 
visitors are now denied access) commands a fine view, and it was benre, 
or from one of the windows, that Robert the Devil is said to have first 
seen Arlette, the tanner's daughter (see above), washing linen in the small 
stream at the foot of the castle rock. Talbot's Tower contains two vaifiied 
chambers. The breach through which Henri IV entered the castle is seen 
at the end of the disengaged part of the enceinte next the promenade. 
This part was formerly defended by a moat. 

Returning to the Hotel de Ville we pass behind it and skirt the 
castle-hill by a promenade, bounded on the left by a Hoepital (18th cent.) 
and the river Ante, leading to the Porte dee Cordeliers (13th cent.), the 
only considerable relic of the fortiQ cations. Thence the Rue des Corde- 
liers leads back to the Place St. Gervais. 

At the suburb of Ouibrai^^ beyond the railway, a much-frequented horse- 
fair has been held since the 11th cent., lasting from Aug. 10th to Aug. 25th. 
The Church is mainly a Norman structure of the 11th century. Above the 
high-altar it a fine group of the Assumption by an unknown sculptor. 

The first station beyond Conlihoeuf is (30 M.) Fresne-la- Afire. 
Beyond (351/2 M.) Montabart the line to Granville (R. !i5) diverges 
to the right. From (42 M.) Argentan (p. 181) to (51 M.) Surdon 
(p. 182) our line coincides with that from Granville to Paris, from 
which it diverges to the right at the latter. To the left are seen the 
towers of S^es. 

56V2 M. 8^68 (Cheval Blanc, R. 2-3, D. 3 fr.), a town with 
3982 inhab. and the seat of a bishop, is of ancient origin but has 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

to Le Mans. ALENgON. 56. Route. 187 

been repeatedly devastated and rebuilt. The main street leads in 
a straight line from the station to the Place de la Cath^drale. 

The Cathedral {Notre'Dame}^ a pilgrimage-church, is a handsome 
Gothic edifice of the 13-14th centuries. The W. front is preceded by 
a porch with a fine iron grille and is flanked by towers (230 ft. 
high), the stone spires of which have been restored. 

The lofty arches and beautiful triforium of the nave are supported by 
round columns. The transepts are lighted by good rose-windows, and the 
"S. arm contains a fine tympanum and a modera monument. An old well, 
surrounded by a stone coping, has been discovered to the right of the choir. 
The high-altar, with its two faces, is adorned with baa-reUefs in bronze 
and marble. The adjacent panelling is embellished with four fine bas- 
reliefs of scenes from the life of the Virgin. 

Beyond S^es the scenery improves. 62 M. Vingt-Hanaps. 

69 M. Alen^on (Hot. du Grand-Cerf, R. from 2V2, I>. 31/2 fr., 
de France^ both Rue St Blaise; de la GareJ^ the chief town of the 
department of the Ome, with 17,843 inhab., is situated at the 
confluence of the Sarthe and the JBriante. It carries on extensive 
manufactures of woollen and linen cloth, and the famous 'Point 
d'Alen^on' lace is still highly valued. The duchy of Alen^on, created 
in the 14th cent, was an apanage of the house of Yalois. 

The Rue de la Gare, the Rue St Blaise (containing the Prefec- 
ture; 17th cent), and the Grande-Rue lead from the railway -station 
to the Place de la Madeleine, at the end of which is the Maison 
d'Ozi^ built in 1450. The church of Notre-Dame^ on the right in 
this Place, has a 15th cent, nave and transepts and a'tower of 1744. 
The handsome triple porch is flanked by graceful turrets (ca. 1500). 
The pediment of the central bay of the porch contains a group re- 
presenting the Transfiguration. The exterior is adorned with bal- 
ustrades. The most noteworthy features within are the vaulting, the 
stained-glass windows (15-16th cent), the Renaissance organ-loft, 
and the canopied altar. 

The Rue aux Sieurs, farther on, to the right, leads to the Corn 
Market, a huge rotunda, and then to the Place d'Armes. Here stand 
the remains of the old Castle, now a prison, consisting mainly of 
the keep (14th cent.) and the gateway, flanked with two towers 
(15th cent). 

Adjacent is the Hdtel de Ville, a building of 1783, containing 
a small Mus€e (open on Sun. and holidays, 1-4). 

Besides objects of natural history (including numerous ^Diamants d'Alen- 
(on\ i.B. smoky quartr.-crystals found in the neighbouring granite-quarries) 
the collections comprise a number of paintings by Jouvenet, Ovdry, Oiri- 
cauU, Chardin, Desportes, Ribera, Dommichino, and others. 

The Promenade at the back of the H6tel de Ville affords a view 
of the Church of St. Leonard, at the end of the Grande-Rue, an 
edifice of 1489-1505, lately restored. 

From Alengon to Condi- tur-Huitne (for Ghartres) and to Domfront, 
see p. 215. 

Beyond Alen9on the Le Mans railway crosses the Sarthe. 75 M. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

188 RouU 27. DOMFRONT. From Cam 

Bourg-le- Hoij with the considerable remains of a 12th cent, castle. 
— 78 M. La Hutu - Coulomhiers , junction of branch-Unes to 
ri5i/2 M.) Mamers (p. 216) and to (18 M.) Sim-U- OuUlaume 
(p. 220). — The train continues to follow the winding Sarthe, re- 
ciossing the riyer. 851/2 M. Vvwin-Beaumont, Vivoin^ V2 ^* *® ^^^ 
left of the line, possesses a ruined convent and an interesting church 
of the 13th century. — We again cross the Sarthe. 971/2 M.NeuviUe. 
The train now joins the line from Rennes (R. 30) and crosses the 
Sarthe for the last time. 

1031/2 M. Le Mans, see p. 216. 

27, From Caen to Laval vi& Domfiront and Mayenne. 

97>/i M. Eailwat in 4V«-6»/4 hrs. (fares 17 fr. 70, 11 fr. 86, 7 fr. 76 c). 
To Dom/roni. 66V3 M., in !^/4-8Vt hrs. (fares 9 fr. 96, 6 fr. 76, 4 fr. 40 c); 
to Maytnne, 78 M., in 4-4V4 hrs. (fares 14 fr. 20, 9 fr. 66, 6 fr. 20 c). 

Catn, see p. 169. Our train follows the Cherbourg line (p. 165) 
for a short distance, but soon diverges to the left from it and from 
the lines to CourseuUes (p. 158) and Yire (p. 180). It then ascends 
the valley of the Ome, crossing that river several times and passing 
several small stations. Beyond (26 M.) Clicy (H6t. de la Petite- 
Saisse, pens. 6-7 fr.) the train crosses the Orne for the last time 
and passes from its valley into that of the Noireau by a tunnel up- 
wards of 1 M. long. 28 V2 M. Berjou-Cahan is the junction of a line 
to (18 M.) Falaise (p. 185), which also leads partly through the 
valleys of the Noireau and the Orne. 

The valley of the Noireau, which we cross repeatedly, is pleas- 
antly diversified. 31 72 M. Pont-Eramhourg. — 33 M. Condj-sur- 
Koireau (Lion d'Or), a manufacturing town with 6247 inhab. and 
numerous spinning- factories, was the birthplace of Dumont d'Urville 
(1790-1842), the distinguished navigator, to whom a bronze statue, 
by Melknecht, has been erected here. 36 M. Caligny. At (38^2 M.) 
Cerisi'Belle-EtoUe we join the line from Granville to Paris (p. 181), 
which we continue to follow for some time beyond (41 M.) Flers 
(p. 181), before diverging from it to the right. — 44 M. Messei; this 
station is nearer the market-town of Messei than that on the Paris 
railway fp. 181). The town contains considerable remains of a castle 
of the 10th century. — We now descend the valley of the Varenne, 
crossing the stream several times. — As we near Domfront, we have 
a fine view of the town to the left. 

55 M. Domfront (H6t. TrouiUard et de la Poste, R. 2-4, drfj. 3, 
D. 31/2 f^»i good; du Commerce, both centrally situated), an ancient 
town with 4663 inhab., is picturesquely situ&ted on a hill rising 
steeply on the left bank of the Varenne. 

Its position made it one of the chief fortresses of Normandy, and it 

was repeatedly besieged in the Hundred Years' War and in the religious 

-jntests of later date. It« military history hcgins in iM with its siege 


Digitized by LnOOQlC 

to Laval. MAYENNE. 27. Route 189 

and capture by William the Gonqneror, and ends in 1574, when Gabriel 
de Montgomery, the Scottish knight who accidentally killed Henri II in 
a tournament (1559) and afterwards became a Huguenot leader, sought 
refuge here but had to yield to Marshal Matignon. 

It takes 74 hr. to ascend from the station to the town by road, 
but pedestrians may follow short-cuts to the left. The small Church 
of Notre-Dame-sur-l'Eau, at the base of the hill, near the station, is 
a Norman edifice of the 11th century. The Castle (to the left, on 
the top of the rock) has been in ruins since the 16th cent., and 
little now remains of it except a picturesque comer of the keep 
dominating the valley. Henry 11. of England here received the 
papal nuncio sent to reconcile him with Thomas Becket. The ram- 
parts have been converted into a promenade, and command a beau- 
tiful view. A street leads hence to the modem Hdtel de Ville and 
the Church of St, Julien. Behind these are some well-preserved 
remains of the Fortifications, including several towers of the town- 
wall, the tallest of which is the Tour de Godras. 

From Domfront to Alengon and Condi, see p. 215. — A branch-line 
runs to the W. from Domfront to Rotnagny and (Id^/s M.) Mortain (p. 180). 
Thence to Avranches, see p. 180. 

Beyond Domfront the scenery increases in interest. — 69 M. 
Torchamp; 62 M. Ctauci. — 69 M. Amhrieres, with a ruined castle 
founded by Henry I. of England. We now reach the banks of the 
Mayerhne, which we cross. — 70 M. St. Loup -du- Oast ^ 73 M. 
St. Fraimhault'de-Prieres. 

78 M. Mayenne (Orand-Hdtel, R, from 21/2, D. 3 fr., Grand- 
guiUotj both on the quay), an ancient cloth-manufacturing town 
with 10,020 inhab., is situated on both banks of the Mayenne, here 
a wide and navigable stream. 

The lordship of Mayenne was advanced to a marquisate in favour of 
Claude I., Duke of Guise, and in 1573 it was created a duchy and peerage 
for Charles of Lorraine, who styled himself thenceforth Due de Mayenne. 
Its strongly fortified castle was frequently besieged during the middle ages 
and was taken by the English, under the Earl of Salisbury, in 1424. 

On quitting the railway-station, we turn first to the right and 
then to the left, and descend the Rue St. Martin to the Mayenne, 
where we obtain a fine view of the town proper on the opposite 
bank, with Notre-Dame and the castle in the foreground. The views 
up and down stream are also fine. 

The Church of NotrC'Dame, founded in 1110, was in great part 
skilfully rebuilt in the original style in 1868-72. In front is a statue 
of Joan of Arc (1896). The Castle, reached by the streets to the left 
beyond the bridge, is now a prison, but part of its enclosure has 
been converted into a public promenade. 

The Hdtel de Ville, at the upper end of the main street begin- 
ning at the bridge, contains the public library and a small mus^e. 
In the square behind it is a bronze statue of Cardinal Jean de Che- 
verus (1768-1836), Bishop of Boston (U. S. A.) and Montauban and 
Archbishop of Bordeaux, who was a native of Mayenne. The statue 
itself and the bronze reliefs on the pedestal are by David d'Angers. 

190 Routed?. MARTIGNie. 

JttblainM (p. 220) lies about 7 M. to the S.E. of Mayenne. 

Fbom Matenne to FouG]ftEE8, 36 M., railway in IV'i-SVahrs. (fares 6 fr. 96, 
4 fr., 2 fr. 60 c). Tbis line diverges to the left from that to Domfront and 
crosses the Mayenne. — 6 H. 8t. Oeorget-ButUxoent (1986 inbab.); 8V2 M. 
ChAUUon-tvr'Cohnont (2023 inhab.)^ 14 M. 8t. Denifde-OasHnes (2774 iobab.). 
— I8V2 M. Emee (ffdt. de la Tite-Noire, pens. 6 fr., omn. 50 c. j tte to PosU)y 
on the river of the same name, is an industrial town of 5297 inhab., 
commanded by a. Chdieau of the 16th century. A branch-line runs hence 
to Laval (p. 220). — 24 M. at. JHerre-des-Landes. — 27V2 M. Luitr^. — 29 M. 
La 8elle-en-Luitri, also on the line from Vitro to Pontorson (p. 223). — 
36 M. Foughres, see p. 223. 

Another branch- railway runs fr?m Mayenne to (28V2 M.) Pri-en-Pail 
(Alencon; p. 215). 

Fartber on we cross a viaduct 80 ft. bigh. — 8272 M. Commer; 
86 V2 M. Martigni. At (9072 M.) La ChapelU-Anthenaise we join tbe 
line from Paris via Le Mans (R. BO). 947'> M. Louvemi. 

9772 M. Laval, see p. 220. 

Digitized by 



28. St. Malo, St Servan, Binard, and their Environs . . 194 

I. St. Malo and Paramtf 194 

II. St. Servan 197 

III. Dinard 197 

St. Enogat. St. Lunaire. St. Briac, 198. 

IV. Excursions from St. Malo 198 

To Gancale, 198. — To Mont St. Michel, 199. — To 
Dinan, 201. — From Dinan to Dinerd, 204. 

29. From St. Malo to Rennes and Vannes (Qoimper) . . 204 

I. From St. Malo to Rennes 204 

From Rennes to Ghateaubriant, UQS. 
II. From Rennes to Vannes (Qoimper) 208 

a. Via Redon 203 

b. VillPloermel 209 

From Ploermel to Ploaay; to Chateaubriant, 209. 

30. From Paris to Rennes 210 

I. From Paris to Cbartres 210 

From Ghartrea to Saumur, 214. 

II. From Chartres to Le Mans 214 

From Gond^ to Alen^on and Domfront. From Nogent* 
le-Botroa to Orleans. From Gonnerr^ to Mamers and 
to St. Galais, 215. — From Le Mans to La Ghartre t to 
St. Denis-d'Orques, etc. From Le Mans to Tours, 219. 

III. From Le Mans to Rennes 220 

From SiU^-le-Guillaume to La Hutte-Goalombiersito 
Sabl^. From Evron to Jublains; to Ste. Sozanne, 220. 
— ' From Laval to Gennes-Longuefuye \ to Mayenne ; 
to Gh&teaubriant, 221. — From Vitr^ to Pontorson 
(Mont St. Michel); to Martign^-Fercbaud, 223. 

31. From Rennes to Brest 223 

From Lamballe to Le Val-Andr^, Krquy, Moncontonr, 
224. — From St. Briene to Collin^e, 226. — From 
Ploun^rin to Plestin ; Locquirec, 226. — Bodilis. Lam- 

I bader. La Martyre. From lianderneau to Brignogan. 

Plongastel, 228. — Excnrslons from Brest. From Brest 
to Le Gonquet; to Morgat; to Douarnenez; to Lan- 
ddvennec; to Portsall; to L'Aber-wrach: to St. Pol- 

' de-L^on, 231, 282. 

i 32. From St. Briene to Pontivy and Auray 233 

/ From Pontivy to Meslan, 234. 
33. From St. Brieuc to Quimper 234 

a. Via Auray 234 

b. Vill Lond^ac and Ghateaulin 235 

I c. Vi& Guingamp and Rosporden 236 

I 34. Excursions from St. Brieuc and from Guingamp . . 237 
i I. From St. Brieuc to Guingamp by the Nanrow- 

! Gauge Railway 237 

From Portrieux to Paimpol, 237. 

I II. From Guingamp to Paimpol 238 

I Environs of Paimpol, 239. 

Digitized by 



HI. From Guingamp to Tre'guier 239 

From Trdguier to Port-Blanc 5 to Lannion, 24u. 
IV. From Gvdngamp to Lannion. Environs of Lannion 240 
From Lannion to the GhEteaux in the Valley of the 
L^guer; to Plestin; to Trdbeurden ; to Perros-Guirec; 
to Tr^gastcl, 240, 241. 
35. Fxcursions from Morlaix . . . . , 242 

I. From Morlaix to St. Pol- de-Leon and to Koscoff 242 
He de Batz, 243. 

IT. From Morlaif to St. Jean-du-Doigt and to Plou- 

gasnon 243 

I III. From Morlaix to Carhaix. Huelgoat 244 

I St. Herbot, 245. 

I 36. From Brest to Nantes 246 

' I. From Brest to Quimper 245 

From Quimper to Pont-TAhb^ and St. Guenole'j to 
Douarnenez and Audierne, etc., 247, 248. 

II. From Quimper to L orient and Auray 248 

I From Rosporden to Ooncarneau, 248. — From Quimperle 

I to Pont-Aven; to Le Pouldu, 249. — Port-Louis. He 

de Groix. From Lorient to Gourin, 250. 

I III. From Auray to Vannes and Nantes 251 

I The Morbihan, 252. — From Vannes to Sarzeau and 

' St. Gildas; to La Roche-Bernard-, to Locmin^, 258. 

37. From Auray to Quiberon. Plouharnel. Garnac. Loc- 

i mariaquer 254 

Bellc-Ile-en-Mer, 256. 

38. Nantes 257 

From Nantes to Ghateaubriant*, to Paimbceuf ; to Pornic { 

to St. Nazaire, Le Croisic, and Gu^rande, 265, 266. 

I 39. From Paris to Nantes 266 | 

; a. Via Le Mans, Sable', and Angers 266 1 

From La Suze to Saumur vii La FUche. Solesmes. I 

I From Sabl^ to La Fl^che, 267. — From La Possonni^re 

I to Cholet. Chateau de Serrant. Champtoceaux, 268. 1 

1 b. Via Le Mans, SabW, and Segr^ 268 I 

I From Segr^ to Ghs^teaubriant and St. Nazaire, 269. ^ I 

I c. Via Orleans, Tours, and Angers 270 j 

1 Usst^, 270. — Bagneux. From Saumur to Fontevrault. 

' From Les Eosiers to Gennes, 2T2. I 

! 40. Angers 272 ■ 

' From Angers to Les Ponts-de-C^ 5 to Noyant-M^on ; to 1 

La Flfeche^ to Segr^, 279. 

I 41. From Paris to Tours 279 | 

I a. Via Orleans and Blois 279 

I I. From Paris to Orleans 279 

Montlhdry, 280. — From Etampes to Auneau *, to Beaune- 

la-Bolande, 281. 
II. From Orleans to Tours 281 

Chateau de Chaumont, 282. 
b. ViaVend6me 283 

Digitized by 



42. Orleans 287 

Environs, 290. — From Orleans to Montargis t to Gien, 

43. Blois 291 

Chateaux de Ghambord, de Beauregard, and de Che- 
vemy, 294, 295. — From Blois to Yendome and Pont- 
de-Braye; to Bomorantin and Villefranche-Sttr-Glier; 
to Lamotte-Beuvron; to Montrichard, etc., 295, 296. 

44. Toors and its Environs 296 

Excursions from Tours: Chenonceaux, 900; Chinon, 
301; Loches, 902. 

The ancient duchy of BreUtgn* or Brittany (comp. p. xxxiv), *pays de 
granit, reconvert de chines', forming the extreme N.W. corner of France, 
still differs in many important respects from the rest of the country. The 
inhabitants are of pure Celtic race and their native tongue is akin to Welsh. 
In upper or B. Brittany this language has to a great extent given place to 
French, but upwards of a million inhabitants in the W. provinces (Fin- 
ist^re, Cdtes du Nord, Morbiban) still speak it, and in many places in the 
interior French is not understood. The peasants still retain their ancient 
picturesque dress, which is seen to greatest advantage on Sundays and at 
^Pardons and other fStes. Many of their manners and customs also are 
quaint and primitive, and curious old legends and superstitions are met at 
every turn. In addition to its wild scenery Brittany offers the traveller 
a special attraction in the megalithic monuments of the prehistoric population 
at Carnac and Locmariaquer. 

When the Romans invaded the country the unknown prehistoric in- 
habitants, the builders of the great stone monuments (comp. p. 254), had 
been largely superseded by Gallic tribes, who named it Armoriea ('country 
near the sea'). But the ancestors of the bulk of the present population 
did not begin to arrive until the 5th century; and for a century and a 
half Armoriea received a steady stream of Celtic immigrants from Britain, 
driven out by the Teutonic invaders of that island. The new-comers 
brought their language, customs, political organisation, and religion to 
their new country, which thenceforth beeame known as 'Little Britain' 
or simply Brittany. The autonomous settlements they established were 
known as plou or {onn, according as they were under secular chiefs or 
under bishops. In course of time these settlements expanded and united 
to form five little states : Domnonia (Tr^guier and L^on), Comubia or Cor- 
nouaiUe (Quimper), and Bro Weroch (Vannes), on the coast : Poher (Carhaix) 
and Poutrecoet (Ploermel and Pontivy), in the interior. In the 9th cent, 
the Bretons, united under Nomino^^ established their independence against 
the Franks; and although in 1169 Oeoffretf, son of Henry II. of England 
and Kormandy, became duke of Brittany, the country successfully resisted 
the attempts both of France and of England. Finally, however, the duchy 
passed to France, through the marriages of Anne of Brittany, first to 
Charles VIII. in 1491 and secondly to Louis XII. in 1499. Formally the 
duchy passed to Claude of France, daughter of Anne and Louis and wife 
of Francis I., and the union of Brittany and France was at last consum- 
mated on the accession of her son, Henri II of France, in 1547. During 
the wars of the League after the death of Henri III Brittany was agitated 
by civU strife, but finally submitted to Henri IV in 1598 (p. 268). — In 
1798 the Chouant, or royalists of Brittany, rose in a revolt which was 
repressed only by the energetic intervention of Hoche (Quiberon, 1795). 

Baedbkeb's Northern France. 5th Edit. Digitized by[^ 



28. St. Malo, St. Servan, Dinard, and their Environs. 
I. St. Halo and Parami. 

St. Halo. — ArrivAL The Quay of the steamers from Southampton, 
Jersey, etc. is aboat IV4 M. from the Railwaif StcUion by the direct route 
(p. l^)i but the lock between the tidal basin and the wet dock is often 
open, in which case the detour mentioned on p. 195 must be taken. A 
distinct bargain should be made with the Porters who offer their services, 
especially it' they undertake to convey the luggage from the custom-house 
to the station. 

Hotels. ^Os.-Hdx. Franklin, outside the town, near the Casino, 120 B. 
from 4, B. IV2, d^j. 3V«, I>. 4V«i pens. from 9, omn. 1 fr., English; •Gb.- 
Bdt. D£ Fbanok XT DB Chatbacbsiand, Place Chateaubriand, with sea- view 
from the back-windows, 185 E. from 4, B. 11/4, d^j. 8, D. 4, pens, from 10, 
omn. 1 fr.; Hdx. db l'Unitbrs, Place Chateaubriand, B. from 4, B. 1, 
d^j. 37*, D. 4, pens, from 10, omn. V? fr., good. — In the town: do Gxntrb 
KT DB LA Paix, Ruc St. Thomas 6, 70 R. from 2V2, B. 1. d^j. 3, D. 3Vx, 

f>ea8. from 8V«i omn. 1/2 fr. ; Centbal-Benoit, GraDde-Rue 12, D. 2V2» pens, 
rom 71/2, omn. V2 f'*) good; du Commerce, Rue St. Thomas, d^j. 3, omn. 
1/2 fr. ; DE l'Union, in a blind alley near the Grande Porte and the Rue 
de la Poissonnerie, R. from 2Vs f'' \ i>b Normandib bt de Brbtaone. Rue 
St. Thomas, pens, from B fr. ; Bbllbvde, at the Porte Champs- Vauverts, R. 
from 2, D. 31/2, pens, from 7, omn. */a fr. ; db la Marine, Rue des Marins 7, 
R. 2-3, D. 2^/4, pens. 7-8, omn. */a fr. ; de Provbnob et d^Anoletbrrb, Rue 
de la Poissonnerie, unpretending. — At the station : Chadoin. D. 21/2, pens. 
6V2 fr. -, DBS VoTAOEURs, with restsurant, d^J. 2 fr. — Many English and other 
visitors patronize St. Malo in summer, so that the hotels are often crowded 
and expensive. The Hdtels Franklin, de France et de Chateaubriand, du 
Centre et de la Paix, and Central-Benoit are closed in winter. 

Oaf6s. Continental^ des Voyageurs, de V Ouest, de Paris^ Place Chateaubriand. 

Cabs. Stand putside the Porte St. Vincent, where the tariff is posted 
up : per drive IV4 fr., per hr. 21/4 fr., each additional 1/4 i^'* V* f'* Motor 
cabs at the same tariff. 

Steam Tramways (comp. the Plan). 1. From the Cale de Dinan to the 
Porte St. Vincent (10 c). 2. From the Porte St. Vincent to Parami-Bowrg 
via the coast (20 A SO c). 3. From the Port€ St. Vincent to the Mairie at 
St. Servan viE the railway-station (15 A 20 c). 4. From the Mairie at 
St. Servan to Parami-Bowg via the railway - station (15, 20, A 80 c). — 
Tramway to Gancale, see p. 198. 

Baa-Baths. Bathing-box and costume 1 fr. on the Grande Plage, 70 c 
on the Plage du Bey. Warm Salt Water Baihs (1 fr.), near the Casino. 

Casino. Adm. 60 c. ; theatrical performances and concerts 24 fr. Sub- 
scription for a week 27 fr., fortnight 36, month 55, season 80 fr. : 2 pers. 
35, 56, 80, and 120 fr. 

Pont Roulant (p. 197) between St. Malo and St. Servan (p. 197), fares 
10 and 5 c, after 8 p.m. 15 and 10 c, after 10 p.m. 30 and 25 c. — Steaaa 
Ferry to Dinard almost every 1/4 ^r. (from 8 a.m. to 7.45 p.m.) during the 
season, starting at the Cale de Dinan, in the outer harbour, the Cale du 
Grand-Bey (p. 195), or the Cale du Petit-Bey, according to the tide. Passage 
in 10-15 min. (fares 25c. *, after 6 p.m. 50c.). Motor-launches C vedettes'; same 
fares) ply also after 8 p.m. 

Steamers. To Dinan^ see p. 201. — To the Islands in the bay, CaneaU, 
Mont St. Miehelj Granville^ Cap Frihd^ eto., at irregular intervals \ see local 
advertisements and bills. — To St. Brieue weekly in 2S/4 hrs. (5, 4, 8 Cr.), 
returning via Le Havre (see p. 224). — To Southan^ton (London) and to 
t he CJumnel Islands, see pp. xiii, xiv. 

Brakes to CancdU daily in tiie season at 1.30 p.m. from Place Chateau- 
briand 2 (fare 2V2 fr.); to St. Suliac (p. 201), twice weekly (2Vi fr.). 

Post ft Telegraph Office (PI. 7), opposite the W. facade of the church. 

British Vice- Consul, Hon. E. Henniker- Major. — American Consular 
Agtnt, Raymond Moulton, 

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ST. MALO. 28. Route. 195 

English Church, at Param^ (p. 196). — Work among the British 
seamen frequenting the port is carried on by the 8t. Andrmo^* Waterside 

8U MalOf a fortified seaport with 10,647 inhab., occupies a re- 
markably picturesque situation, on a rock (formerly an island) rising 
between the harbour and the mouth of the Ranee, flanked on the 
left by St. Seryan, and facing Dinard on the opposite hank. 

St. Halo derives its name from the Welsh monk St. Malo or St. Maclou, 
who became its first bishop in the 6th cent., but its importance, formerly 
much greater than at present, dates from a considerably later period. The in- 
habitants of St. Halo early distinguished themselves as bold traders in time of 
peace and as daring privateers in time of war. Jacques Gartier (1491-1557), 
who discovered Canada in 1634. was a native of St. Malo; the famous ad- 
miral Duguay-Trouin (1673-1736) was at first a privateersman from the same 
port; Surcouf (1773-1827), well known as a corsair, and Mah^ de la Bour- 
donnais (1699-1753), who took Madras from the English in 1746, were also 
'Malouins\ In 1622 St. Malo sent valuable aid to Louis XIII. at the siege 
of La Bochelle; and its cruisers had been so successful in war and trade, 
that in 1711 the town contributed 30 million francs to support Louis XIV. 
in the wars of the Spanish Succession. The English made various un- 
successful attempts to capture the town and bombarded it several times. 
In 1768 the Duke of Marlborough landed at St. Servan with 16,000 men, 
but though he did immense damage to shipping and other property, he 
was unable to take St. Halo. — St. Halo was the birthplace of MauperttUs 
(1698-1769), Lamettne (1709-51), Chateaubriand (1768-1848), Broutsai* (1772- 
1838), and Lamennais (1782-1854). 

The Harbour (recently completed), in a shallow hay between 
St. Malo and St. Servan, consists mainly of an outer basin, a tidal 
harbour, two wet docks, and an inner reservoir. St. Malo imports 
timber and coal, exports provisions of all kinds to England, and takes 
a considerable share in the Newfoundland cod-fishery. 

The Railway Station is situated in the suburb of Rocahey^ near 
the harhour, between St. Malo and St. Servan, and about ^2 ^. from 
each. To reach the former we follow the Avenue Louis-Martin, 
between a wet dock on the right and the inner reservoir and the 
tidal harbour on the left (lock, see p. 194). The tramway route 
(5 min. longer) traverses the Sillon, which was originally an embank- 
ment connecting the rock on which the town stands with the main- 
land. — At the end of the Sillon next the town is the modest Casino, 
i n front of which is a bronze Statue of Chateaubriand (PI. 9 ; see 
above), by A. Millet. 

As we enter the town by the Porte St. Vincent, with its finely- 
sculptured coats-of-arms, the Castle, dating from the 14- 15th cent., 
and now used as barracks, stands on our right. It consists mainly 
of four towers, one of which may he ascended for the sake of the 
view. An almost equally extensive and more varied view may, 
however, be enjoyed from the *Ramparts enclosing the town, which 
date chiefly from the 16th century. Visitors should not omit to make 
the circuit of the town on the ramparts, hoth for the sake of en- 
joying the curious appearance of the town, and also for the view of 
the hay, which is finest when the tide is foil. The bay is dotted 
with fortified islets, one of which, the Orand-Bey, 560 yds. from 


196 Route '28. PARAM^. 

the town, contains the simple tomb of Obateaahriand (d. 1848). 
8t. M&lo is remarkable for the great height to which the tide rises. 
Ordinary tides rise from 23 to 26 ft., spring-tides 49 ft. above low- 
water mark; and at low water an immense tract is uncovered, so 
that it is possible to walk dryshod to the Grand-Bey. — In the 
Place de la Hollands is a statne of J deques Car tier (see p. 195), by 
O. Bareau (1905), and on the Qoai de Dinan is one of Robert Surcouf 
(PI. 11; see p. 195), by Oaravaniez (1903). 

Most of the streets are steep, narrow, and tortuous. From the 
small PUu:e Chateaubriand^ in front of the castle, we ascend to the 
centre of the town by the Bue St. Thomas or the Rue St. Vincent 
(opposite the gateway), and then turn to the left. 

The Parish Churdi , formerly the cathedral, was built partly in 
the 12th and 14th cent, (choir) but chiefly in the 15-16th cent ; 
the facade dates from 1713 and the elegant spire from 1859. 

The beat part of the interior is the choir, which has a fine triforiom 
and three windows filled with modern stained glass. The ivory figure of 
Christ (facing the pulpit), a modem tomb to the right, and other sculp- 
tares are well executed, and several of the pictures also are of some value \ 
the latter, however, are badly lighted. 

The street nearly opposite the front of the church leads to another 
small Place, embellished with a marble Statue of Duguay^Trouin 
(PI. 10; see p. 195), by Molknecht. — The H6tel de VilU (PI. 3), 
also in this square, contains several rooms decorated with paintings 
(apply to the concierge) and a small but interesting Museum (open 
on Sun. and Thurs., 1-4), which should certainly be visited by those 
entering Brittany for the first time. 

The Sea-bathing Establishment lies beyond the castle, to the E. 
of the town. The beach consists of fine sand, and slopes gradually. 

Parami. — HoteU. At Parami-les-Baim, nearly 1 M. from St. Malo 
by the Sillon (tramway) : OBAND-HdTSL db Pabam ft, adjoining the Casino, 
200 R. from 4, B. IV2, d^j. 8Vsi I>- ^Vs) P«iu- from 10, omn. 1 fr.; Hdr. 
Doouat-Trooin, B. with sea-riew from 5 fr.; D£ Coubtois-Ville, near the 
Casino; NoTBK-DAMK-DBsOBftVES. — At Roehebonne, nearly 1 M. farther on: 
*Bbistol Palace Hotel, on the beach, with terrace and gardens, B. iVs, 
d^j.8Vt, D. 4, pens, from 10, omn. ifr.; Hdr. de la Plage, belonging to 
the same proprietor and also on the beach, pens, from 8 fr. ; Coktinbhtal, 
in the same neighbourhood, ddj. or D. 272 fr.; des Baihs bt db Boohb- 
BOHMB, Boul. Chateaubriand, B. from 2, D. 2V3i pens, from 6, omn. */4 fr.; 
de la Paix, on the beach, pens. Sfr. ; db l'OcAan, d^j. or D. 2V2, pens, 
from 8, omn. s/4 fr. ; de Fbance, Boul. Chateaubriand, pens, from 7 fr. ; 
Intebwatiokal, at the Bond-Point, R. 2-8, D. 3, pens. 7-9, omn. »/« f'- i ©u 
Cbmtbb, near the Bond-Point, d^. 2, D. 21/2 fr. 

Bea-Bathi at the Ptage du Casino^ 1 fr. 40 c. ; at Rochebonne 1 fr. — 
Casino, at the new beach; adm. 50 c., theatre 2-5 fr. 

Bnfflish Ohuroh (St. John the Baptist) ^ Bue Daguay-Trouin; services at 
10.80 and 6; chaplain, Bev. H. Nor(hcott^ M. A.^ Chimiere. 

Param/ (6140 inhab.) is formed of three distinct parts: Parami- 
leS'BainSj Rochebonne^ both of recent origin, and the village of 
Paramif situated at a short distance from the sea, on the road to 
Gancale (see p. 198). Param6-les-Bains consisU mainly of the hotels 

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ST.SERVAN. 28, Route. 197 

and casino, with a paved terrace and a fine sandy beach, hnt the 
surroundings are flat and shadeless, and there is no promenade ex- 
cept the terrace. Rochehonne, 1^/4 M. from St. Malo, is more pleas- 
antly situated and has rapidly developed. 

Rothineuf (Grand-Hotel ; Terminus), 3^/4 M. from St. Malo (tramway), 
and La OuimoraU (Hotel, moderate) , a little farther on, are also aea- 
bathing resorts. Some of the rocks near the former have been carved 
into fantastic figures by a local priest. 

n. St. ServaxL. 

Hotels. VicTOBiA HoTKL (formerly Edt. Bdlevfte\ Qrande-Bue 63 (St. 
Halo end), 60 R., B. 1, ddj. 3, D. 4, pens, from 10 fr., English, good; 
Hot. de 1 Union, Bue Dauphine 21, on the beach. — Penaiona. Primaiotra 
(Miss Qoldham), Bue Yille Pepin; MaUon Mathiat^ 6«. per day, 36«. per 
vjreek (less in veinter). 

Steam "Fexxy to Dinard^ every hour from the Port St. P^re (fares and 
times as from St. Malo), returning at the half-hours. ^ Vedettes^ from 8 a.m. 
to 6.30 p.m., starting at the half-hours (from Dinard at the hours). 

Sea-Baths. Bathing-box 40 c. ; box, costume, and t owel 60 or 75 c. 

English Church, Bue Chapitre; services at 11 And 6; chaplain. Rev. P. 
J. Afiehell, U. A. — English Physician, Dr. Ashdown. 

St. Servan, formerly only a suburb of St. Malo, is now a separate 
but uninteresting town with 12,242 inhabitants. It may be reached 
from St. Malo by the road passing the station (tramway, p. 194), or 
(better) by the Pont Roulant at the mouth of the harbour. This 
bridge (fares, see p. 194) moves upon rails laid at the bottom of 
the sea, and is drawn from side to side of the harbour-mouth by 
means of a stationary steam-engine on the St. Servan side. The plat- 
form for passengers is 40 ft. aboye the rails. The modern Hdtel de 
VUUf at the top of the Grande-Rue, and the Church ofSte, Croix, to the 
S., built in the 18-19th cent., are the only buildings of any preten- 
sions. Besides sharing the harbour of St. Malo, St. Servan has two 
small harbours at the mouth of the Ranee: the Port de Solidor and 
the Port St. Phre, between which rises the 14th cent. Tour de Solidor 
(visitors admitted; view). These harbours are separated from the 
bay of Les Sahlona by a rocky promontory, crowned by a fort on the 
site of an ancient town called Aleih. Bathing Establishments on the 
bay of Les Sablons and on the bay of Les Fours-k-Chaux. 

IIL Dinard. 

Hotels. *BoYAL, on the beach, with a restaurant and terrace, and the 
Annexe Hdt. Emeraude ; *de la Plage et du Casino, near the Casino, open 
June-Sept., 100 R. from 6, B. IV2, d^j. 4, D. 5, pens, from 16, omn. 1/2 fr.; 
*CBrsTAL Hotel, Avenue de la Malouine, near the beach, B. from 8, B. IV2) 
d^j. 5, D. 7, pens, from 12 or 15, omn. IV2 fr.; Gband-H6tel, v^rith a sea- 
view, B. from 4, electric light 1/2, B. IV4, d^j. 31/2, D. 41/2, pens, from 10, 
omn. V2^fM well spoken of. — Hdx. des Teiibassbs; Windsob; OB.-HdT. 
DE Pbovenoe et d^Angletebbe, Bue du Casino, B. IV2, d^j. 3, D. 4. pens, 
from 8 fr. ; Gb.-H6t. Victoeia, Bue Levavasseur, E. from 4, B. VJa, d^j. 
3V2, D. 4, yenB. from 8 fr. ; HdT. Bellbvub, opposite the pier, B. nrom 3, 
B. 1, d^j. 2V2, D. 3, pens, from 9 fr.; des Bains, Bue des Bains, B. from 2, 
D. 3, pens, from 7 fr. ; de la VallAe, on the quayj Anglo-Nobmand, des 
Colonies (E. from 3, D. 2V2 or 3, pens, from 8 fr.), both Rue Levavassenr 

198 RouU2a, DINARD. 

lldv.-IUtTAUiuMT DM LA Paix, Plftoe du Ck)minerce^ Box. BTox 
tUo tUiion. ■ - The II6ttU Windsor^ dt Provence et ^Angl^errcy J5 
ltMtM«t dee (V«tUM, de In IViix, and Modenu remain opexi al 
routtd, « Vtnaion. Ker-Edm^ Boul. Fcari, pens, from 8 or 5 fj 

OMtBM. VneiM Uifk-Ufy adm. 1 fr., for the whole day- 
Muvl Uk««lr« 8 tr.) subaoripUon for a week 30, fortnigriit 50, 
•WMan UO f».) for two pert. 50. 90, 1^ * 166 fr. 0retm<i- Ceesin 
th« II Al. UoYiU, au annexe of tne preceding; same cliarges. — O4 
al 81. Urlao (•«• boUnvX — Sea-Batha. ^Bain- complet" 1 fx-., to bx 
ll> c. at Uk« ohUf ealabHshmeni, less at the others. 

Oa¥a» IVr driy« V «, per hr. 2 fr.; at night 21/3 and 3>/s fr. 

•laaia Faftiea to i«l. Malo (see p. ltS4) and to St. Seinran Cp. i 

•laaie TtMaway ftom the Cale de Dinard and the station to Si, 
^. Iwm^y and St. Brimt (see below). 

The iUMiheata ftom St. Halo to IKaan (tee p. 201^ toodi al 
^ Kfx a(l«r leaving St. Malo. 

VmI 4 Telaftaph Oltea« Bne da Casino. 

ImilUh Oh«r«h t «$t. Mrt»» f ai«rl, Bue des Bains, scrriees at 
%\ «ha^al«« Xwx (\ A r,^ J<V««a, 

I^iiittnjl U 4^ mod«iii tovn vith 6114 inhab., pictarv 
^tutHvl on A roc^ prMMmtorr «i^ ^^ ^^ ^'^nk of ike ests 
l^<» Hmic») opp4>«lt4$ $t. Mal^ and St. S^mn. It is tke leadii.j 
WlhlUf r«90Tl In Brittany ovio^ t«> its attnctiTe site, its j^ 
««miy tM^ci> it$ fictuTi^tt^ vievs^ aikd its pleasant v^alks. 
<Mlvtn>ti» Mi^ $|^nU^ with TtlUs^ and it is ms^h fr««^nemed \r \ 
U«^ vt^^hx^^ In July and An^vst h bs a S4a«vhat expcssiTc » 
th« tMv« d^(ir;.%'n^. th^ c^i^f Wc^i^-WiKk. visk AcCk 
<liv^^ tk* Vk|^ $»Nk Wtw^wn the ^i»at it r*jmxn£ (y^ the S. ef vj 
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198 RouU28. DINABD. 

Hdr.-BjtsTADiuiiT DB LA Paix, Place du Ck)mmerce; Hdr. Hodebme, near 
the atation. — The E6tas Windsor, de Provence et d'Angleterre^ Bellevue, det 
Bains, des Colonies, de la Paix, and Moderns remain open all the year 
round. — Pension. Ker-Eden, Boul. Fdart, pens, from 8 or 5 fr. 

Oaiinoa. Casino High-Life^ adm. 1 fr., for the whole day incl. ball 
and theatre 8 fr.; subscription for a week 30, fortnight 50, month 66. 
season 95 fr.^ for two pers. 50, 90, 120, & 185 fr. Grand- Casino^ behind 
the Hdt. Boyal, an annexe of the preceding; same charges. — Oolf-Oourae 
at St. Briac (see below). — Sea-Batha. ^Bain' complet' 1 fr., to subscribers 
70 c. at the chief establishment, less at the others. 

Oabs. Per drive IVs* per hr. 2 fr.; at night 2V2 ftnd 8V2 fr. 

Steam Perriea to St. Malo (see p. 194) and to St. Servan (p. 197). 

Steam Tramway from the Gale de Dinard and the station to 8t. Enogat, 
St. LmuHri, and St. Briae (see below). 

The SteamboatB from St. Malo to Dinan (see p. 201) touch at Dinard 
1/4 hr. after leaving St. Malo. 

Post ft Telegraph Office, Rue du Casino. 

Bnfflish Ohuroh (St. Bartholomew), Bue des Bains, services at 11 and 
6 ; chaplain, Rew. C. J. Vcdpy French, M. A. 

Dinard is a modem town witb 6114 inliab., picturesquely 
situated on a rocky promontory on the left bank of the estuary of 
the Bance, opposite St. Malo and St. Servan. It is the leading sea- 
bathing resort in Brittany owing to its attractive site, its spacious 
sandy beach , its picturesque views , and its pleasant walks. The 
enylrons are sprinkled with villas, and it is much frequented by Eng- 
lish visitors. In July and August it is a somewhat expensive resort. 

The Qrlve de I'Ecluse, the chief bathing-beach, with the Oasino, 
faces the open sea, between the Pointe de Dinard (to the S. of which 
passengers from St. Malo land) and the promontory of La Malouine, 
It may be reached either direct viH the 6rande-Bue and the Bue des 
Bains (to the right), or (preferable for walkers) by a foot-path as- 
cending the Pointe de Dinard and then skirting the shore. — The 
other bathing-establishment (Grlve du Prieuri) is on the bay of 
Dinard. The Pointe de la VicomtS, farther S., commands a fine view 
of the estuary of the Ranee. 

St. Enogat {Or.-BOt. de la Mer; Hdt. Michelet; Ker-Arvor; des Strangers 
et de St. Enogat, pens. 6-7 fr., good; Du Oneselin, unpretending; Pens. Belle- 
vue, 6-7 fr. ; furnished villas), a large village about 1 M. from Dinard, beyond 
the second promontory of La Malouine, is also a favourite batbing-resort. 

St. Lunaire {* Grand- H6tsl, 150 B. from 6, D. 7, pens, from 10, omn. 
1 fr.; E6t. do St. Lunaire et de Longchamps; de Paris, B. 3-5, pens. 8-11 fr.; 
des Bains, pens. 7-10 fr. ; English-American Hotel, Edt. de la Terrasse, both 
small) and St. Briac (H6tel des Panoramas, on the beach, pens. 7 fr. ; du 
Centre; de France; de la Houle), 1*/* and 3S/4 M. farther to the W., also 
afford excellent bathing and beautiful views of the rocky coast and islands. 
There are good golMinks (18 holes) at St. Briac. Living at both these 
watering-places is more primitive than at Dinard or St. Malo, though 
not much less expensive. It is advisable to make enquiries beforehand. 

IV. EzourBions from St. Malo. 
Comp. the Maps to the right and Itft of the Plam at p. 194. 
To Cancale. 9 M. Steam Tbamway (fares 1 fr. 20 and 85 c.) vi& Par ami 
(p. 196), La BeuglaU, St. Miloir-les-Ondes, and (6 M.) St. Coulomb. Omnibus 
from La Oouesni^re (p. 204; 1 fr.). — Branch also to La Houle (p. 199; 
1 fr. 25, 90 c). Steamers sometimes ply to Cancale in the season (there 
and back 4 fr.). Excwsion Brakes, see p. 194. 


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MONT ST. MICHEL. 28. Route. 199 

Cancale (H6tel Du Ouesclin, d^j. 3, D. 31/2, pens. 8-12 fr.; du 
Centre; du Hoc; de V Europe^ dtfj. 2, pens. 6-7 fr. ; de France)^ a town 
with 7061 inhab., is magnificently situated on a height above the bay 
of the same name, also called the bay of St. Michel. Its small har- 
bour, known as La Houle, lies about V2 ^* to the S. The leading 
industry of the town is the rearing of oysters, which enjoy a high 
reputation. The oyster-beds cover a total area of 430 acres. The 
Rockers de Cancale form an islet well seen from the neighbourhood 
of the town. The height above the bay also commands a noble • View. 

To Mont St. Michel. Bailwat to (28 H.) Pontorson in 11/4-2 brs. 
(fares 4 fr. 95, 3 (r. 36, 2 fr. 15 c.) and Steam Tramway thence to (7 M.) 
Mont 8t. Michel in Vz hr. (fares 1 fr. 15, 85, 55 c); return-fares from St. Malo, 
including tramway, 8 fr. 15, 6 f r. 70, 5 fr. 50 c. In summer public vehicles 
also ply from Pontorson to Mont St. Michel (6V2M.; IV2-2V2 fr. there and 
back). — Steamers sometimes ply from St. Malo to Mont St. Michel in the 
season (there and back 5 fr.). 

From St. Malo to (15 M.) Dol^ where we change carriages, see 
p. 204. — 20 M. La Boussac; 26 M. Pleine-Foughres, beyond which 
we cross the Couesnon and the railway to Vitr^. The Gouesnon is 
the boundary between Brittany and Normandy. 

28 M. FontoiBon (^Hot. de Bretagne, R. from 2, D. 3 fr. ; de 
V Quest, R. 2-3, D. 3V2 ^r.), a small seaport with 2728 inhab., Ues at 
the mouth of the canalized Couesnon. It is the Junction of lines to. 
Avranches (Granville; Cherbourg) and to VitrS (Paris) ; see pp. 178 
and 223. 

The ^Tramway to Mont St. Michel starts at the railway-station 
and runs to the W. of the road, joining it only at the embankment 
mentioned below. — The carriage-road turns to the right at the 
public fountain. The last portion runs along an embankment or 
causeway, nearly 1 M. in length, constructed in 1879 across the Bay 
of Mont St. Michel, to afford access to the village at all states of 
the tide. 

On the flat expanse of the Bav of 8t. Michd (100 sq. M.) the tide re- 
cedes for a distance of Ti/s M., but rushes in again quicker than a horse 
can gallop. There are numerous dangerous quicksands (none, however, 
near the Hont). Since 1856 nearly 50,000 acres have been reclaimed from 
the sea here, and converted into pasture. Fine sand impregnated with 
carbonate of lime (known as 'tanguej is thrown up by the sea and is U3ed 
as manure by the peasants. 

Mont St. Michel. — HoteU. * Etablissements Podlasd R^uifis, 
B. 3V«i d^j. 2V2, D. 3 fr., omelettes a specialty 5 Ddquesclik, E. 2, ddj. 
or D. 2 fr. Rooms should be engaged in advance in summer. — Caf^s. 
Caf6 Veuve Poulard f Ca/i dee Remparte. — Visitors should time their visit 
80 as to see the tide come in (tides approximately as at St. Halo or 
Qranville). On Sun. and holidays the Mont is overcrowded with excur- 

Mont St. Michel is a' small village, clinging to a curiously isolated 
rock, rising 160 ft. above the ^Gr^ve* or sands at the end of the wide 
bay of the same name, about ^2 M. from the shore. Round the foot 
of the rock run the ancient ^Fortifications, dating mainly from the 

200 Route 28. MONT ST. BHOHEL. Excursions 

15th cent., and consisting of thick and lofty walls, strengthened by 
toweis and bastions. The summit of the rock is occupied by the 
buildings of the ancient monastery, and on the highest point of all 
is the church. The general effect is singularly picturesque. 

The ♦♦Abbey is reached by a flight of steps, beginning at the 
highest part of the village, or (better) by the ramparts, which we 
ascend opposite the H6tel Poulard. The ascent is made in about 
1/4 hr. The buildings, largely hewn out of the rock, are of different 
forms andyarious periods, but most of them date from the ll-13th 
centuries. The largest and most interesting is La Merveille, to the 
right. Visitors are admitted daily in summer from 8 to 6, at other 
seasons 9-11 and 12-4 (fee to the guide). 

The Benedictine Abbey of Mont 8t. Michel was founded in 708 by 
St. Anbert, Bishop of Avranches, in obedience to the commands of the 
Archangel Michael, who appeared to him in a vision. The rock, pre- 
viously known as Mons Tumba, had been a pagan sanctuary. The monks 
were protected by BoUo and the succeeding rulers of Normandy, and in 
1066 they sent six ships to assist William in the conquest of England. 
Pilgrims resorted to the rock in great numbers, and their pious gifts 
greatly enriched the monastery. Learning also flourished here, and in the 
l2th cent, the abbey was known as the ^City of Books', from its extensive 
collection of MSS. In 1203 Philip Augustus burned the monastery, then 
an English possession, but he afterwards rebuilt it when he himself 
became master of Normandy. Mont 8t. Michel was the only Norman 
fortress that successfully defied Henry Y. of England. In 1254 St. Louis 
visited the rock; and in 1469 Louis XI. founded the knightly order of 
8t. Michd. Abuses and disorders began to prevail among the Benedictine 
monks here, and in 1622 they were replaced by brethren of the order of 
St. Maur, wlio remained until the Revolution. The monastery then became 
state property and was used as a prison until 1863, when it was restored 
to its religious uses under the Bishop of Avranches. It is now being 
restored at the expense of the state. The Abbey of St. Michaers Mount, 
in the Bay of Penzance, was an offshoot of Mont St. Michel. 

We enter by the Chdtelet, a lofty donjon of the 15th cent., flanked 
by two projecting turrets, and after visiting the Salle des Oardea 
ascend the Orand Degri Abbatial to a platform (260 ft.) known as 
the 8aut Gaultier, from a prisoner who perished in an attempt to 
escape in the 16th century. The adjoining Churchy begun in 1020 
in the Norman style, has undergone many modifications. The nave 
possessed formerly seven bays, but three have been removed. The 
beautiful choir is in the Gothic style of the 16th century. In the 
chapels of the ambulatory are some interesting bas-reliefs of the 
pejiod. From the outer gallery we have a good view of the central 
tower, which has been rebuilt in the original style, with a Gothic 
spire, and since 1897 has been once more surmounted by a gilded 
bronze statue of St. Michael (total height, 610 ft). The 'staircase 
of lace^ is no longer shown. 

On quitting the church we find ourselves on a level with the 
third story of *Xa Merveille (1203-28), a huge building abutting 
against the rock on the N. On this story we visit the ^Cloiaters^ a 
masterpiece of the 13th cent. (1226-28), forming a rectangle 27 yds. 
long by 16 yds. broad. They contain 220 columns of polished granite. 

fromSuMalo. MONT ST. MiCfiEL. 28. Route. 201 

100 engaged in the walls and the others ranged in douhle arcades, 
with graceful yaults, and emhellished with exquisite carvings, a 
beautiful frieze, and inscriptions. Adjacent is the Refectory (after- 
wards a dormitory), of the same epoch. — From the entrance to the 
cloisters we descend to the Promenoir (early 12th cent), the Crypte 
de VAquilon (11th cent.), various dungeons, and a Crypt used as a 
cemetery. The Wheel for hoisting provisions along an inclined plane 
is also shown. — Some corridors recently rendered passable lead 
to the ChapeUe 8t. Martin (11th cent.), under the S. transept of the 
church , and to the Crypte des Oros-Piliers (15th cent.), beneath 
the choir of the church, so called from its nineteen columns, each 
12 ft. in diameter. On the second floor of La Merveille are the 
Salle des Hotes (13th cent.), beneath the refectory, and the *8alle 
des Chevaliers, an admirable specimen of 13th cent, architecture, 
92 ft. long, with pointed vaulting and a triple row of columns. — 
On the lowest story of La Merveille are the Almonry and the Cellar 
(1203), which are known as the Montgomeries, in memory of an 
unsuccessful attack in 1591 by the Sire de Montgomery, leader of 
the Huguenots. 

In a lane to the right of the exit from the Abbey is a small local 
Utueutn (1 fr.), a miniature Mme. Tussand's, with representations of more 
or less authentic scenes from the history of the Mont. 

The tour of the rock (^s hr.) can seldom be made dry-shod, as there is 
usually a certain depth of water near the causeway (seat in a boat, 1 fr.). 
Visitors who desire to walk on the sands should carefully ascertain the hours 
of the tides (p. 199). 

To Dinan. a. By the Bancs, ITi/z M., Steamboat in 2 hours in the. 
season, starting at hours determined by the tide (see the bills), from the 
quay near the ?orte St. Vincent; from Dinard, V«i^P> later. The boats do 
not always return the same day. Fares, about 2-4 fr., according to dass; 
return-tickets V«"2 fr« extra. — 'Vedettes' also make the excursion in 
summer (3 fr., return iVs fr.). 

This is a very agreeable excursion , though the beauties of the Bance 
do not, perhaps, quite justify their local reputation. It is, therefore, hardly 
advisable both to go and come by the riVer, especially as the interval al- 
lowed by the steamer is not long enough for the proper inspection of the 
interesting town of Dinan. 

The steamer touches at Dinard (p. 197). We have a fine retro- 
spect of St. Male, and then (to the left) of St. Servan, with the 
Tour de Solidor and the roadstead. On the Backer de BizeuXj between 
St. Servan and the Pointe de la Vicomttf (p. 198), rises a colossal 
figure of the Virgin (40 ft. high), by Caravaniez. Farther on, to 
the right, appear La Richardais, the Pointe de Cancaval, and Mont 
Maria, The little tower rising from the river is named the Tour des 
Ztbres, On the left, beyond a house known as VEgorgerie^ from the 
murder of an entire family, are the wide Baie de St, Jouan and then 
St, Suliac, on a small sheltered bay, with a church of the 13th century. 
Behind us, to the right, is Le Minihic. To the left is the Pointe du 
Oarrot, and on the succeeding height. La Ville-hs-Nonais, 

The channel contracts at the Pointe St. Jean, which is about 

202 Route 28. DINAN. ExeurBions 

halfway to Dinan; opposite rises the picturesquely-sitaated Chdteau 
de la Roche, The river again expands. In the distance, to the left, 
rises the church of Pleudihen, To the right, above a mill, lies 
PLou'er, The modem tower of Le Chine-Vert is a picturesque object 
as we look back upon it. To the left is Mordreue, The channel 
again narrows considerably and the banks become wooded. To the 
left is the attractive little valley of the Prat, Above the wooded bank 
rise rocky heights. At a curve of the river we see the imposing Via" 
duct on the railway from Dol to Dinan, 105 ft. high. Fine view 
behind us and picturesque rocks (to the left 'La Demoiselle'). A 
little beyond the viaduct is the Lock of Le Chdtelier, The surplus 
water of the river sometimes escapes in a pretty waterfall (to the 
left). The banks now become low and the scenery monotonous. 
To the left is the fine Chdteau de Grillemontj to the right are cliffs, 
and in front appears Dinan. Farther on we see, to the left, more 
wooded cliffs and obtain a picturesque view of the town and viaduct. 
Dinan^ see below. Omnibus to the station, on the other side of 
the town, 1 fr. 

b. Bt Railwat, 32 M., in 2 brs. (6 fr. 50, i fr. 85, 3 fr. 65 c). 

A junction-line, 9 H. shorter, mns between La Goitesnihr4-Caneal«, the 
first station (p. 204), and Miniac-Morvan (p. 1T8), bat there is no difference 
made either in the time or the fare. The branch passes Chdteauneuf^ 
with an old rained castle. 

From St. Malo to (16 M.) Vol, see p. 204. From Dol to (32 M.) 
Dman, see p. 178 ; this line is a continuation towards the W. of that 
from Pontorson (p. 199). 

32 M. Dinan (see Plan, p. 194). — Hotels. De Bhetaomk (PI. a), 
Place Daclo8,.R. from 4, B. IV4, d^j. 8, D. 4, pens, from 8, omn. *Ufr.\ 
DB Pabis £t d'Anglbtesbe (F1. b), Bae Thiers, B. 2^, B. 1, d^j. 21/2, D. 8, 
pens, from SVsi omn. V2 fr-i English j db la Posts (P). c), Place Du 
Guesclin 21, B. 1, d^j. 2V2, D. 3, pens, from 9, omn. »/«■*/« fr-i Enelish; 
Mabgdkrite, Place Da Guesclin 27, B. 2-4, B. «/i, d^- 2»/2, D. 3, pens. 7Vr9, 
omn. Vs fr. \ de l'Eubopb, at the station, B. 2, d^j. 2, D. 272 fr> — Peneioni. 
Mme. St. Oaij Bellevue, Les Buttea, pens. 6-7 ir. ; Mile. Petithomme, Buc 
des Buttes. — Railway ReataurarU. 

Steamboat to St. Halo, starting from the harbour near the old bridge, 
at variable hours, announced on bills posted in the town (comp. p. 199). 

English Ohurch (Christ Church), in Bue Broussais (services at 11 and 6)^ 
chaplain, Rev. O. P. Irby, M. A., Les Tilleuls, Bue de TEspdrance. 

Stndicat d'Imitiative, Agence Latouche, Bue de Cocherel. 

Bman, an ancient town of 11,078 inhab., with curious and pictur- 
esque houses and streets, is finely situated on a height on the left 
bank of the Ranee. 

Quitting the station, we follow the Rue Thiers to the fine promen- 
ade known as the Grands-Fossis. Farther on, beyond the little Place 
Duclos, the PetitS'FossSs diverge to the right. On both sides con- 
siderable remains of the Ramparts of the 13th and 14th cent, are 
still extant. The suburb to the right is largely inhabited by the 
English colony (about 350). 

From the harbour we ascend to the viaduct, whence we reach the 
centre of the town, and visit the promenades and the castle last. — 

from 8t, Malo. DINAN. SS, Route. 203 

In the Place Duclos is the modern Hdtel de Ville. The stieet to the 
left leads hence to the Place Du Guesclin, embeltished with an 
equestrian statue of the ConnitabU Du Quesclin^ who recaptured the 
town from the English in 1359, by Frtfmiet (1902). The Place oc- 
cupies the site of the field in which he defeated in single combat 
an English knight, named by the Breton chroniclers ^Sir Thomas of 
Canterbury'. — Farther on, to the right, is the Chdteau of the Duchess 
Annej erected in the 14th cent, and partly built into the ancient 
town-walls. This interesting pile was recently carefully restored and 
fitted up as \Musie^ containing antiquities, coins, funeral monuments, 
objects of natural history, etc. (adm. daily 8-7; tickets are sold in 
the tobacco-shops). The donjon, 112 ft. in height, commands a fine 
view. — The exterior of the castle is best viewed from the Petits- 
Fosses, to which we may descend by the Porte St. Louis (see beloV). 

The Rue du Chateau leads to the most picturesque parts of the 
town , skirting the base of steep rocks, till it reaches the banks of 
the Ranee, the irooded channel of which offers various attractive 
views. The river is spanned by an imposing stone ^Ftaduct, 270 yds. 
long and 130 ft. high. — Thence we ascend direct to the centre of the 
town, the narrow streets of which contain many quaint old houses. 

The church of 8t, Sauveur^ in the neighbourhood, to the left, is 
a curious edifice, the right side of which is Romanesque, the left 
Gothic. The Romanesque portal is unfortunately in very bad pre- 
servation. The right wall is adorned on the exterior with arcades 
and mouldings, and a tasteful Gothic chapel was added at the third 
bay in the 15th century. There is but one aisle, consisting of the 
Gothic part of the W. arm. The choir is also Gothic. The holy- 
water basin, supported by Caryatides, to the left of the entrance, dates 
from the 12th century. In the N. transept is a stone marking the spot 
where the heart of Bertrand Du Guesclin is buried; and in one of the 
choir-chapels, on the same side, are two tasteful Gothic credences. — 
Behind this church is the Jardin Anglais, whence 8 pleasant new 
promenade, affording fine views of the picturesque valley of the 
Ranee, leads by the old ramparts to the Porte St. Louis (see above). 

The narrow street opposite the left transept is continued by the 
Rue Oroix-Quart to the old Rue du Jerzual, leading to the Porte du 
Jerzual, one of the most curious parts of the old town, Gothic out- 
side and Romanesque within. A little to the left is the Porte 81. Malo, 
a similar but less interesting structure. 

The street leading to the S. from the Porte St. Malo debouches 
in the Rue de THorloge, near the 15th cent. Tour de VHorloge. 
Short of the tower, on the right, is the Place des Cordeliers, beyond 
which is the Grande-Rue, leading back to the Hdtel de Yille. 

8t, Malo, to the right, near the latter, is a large church of the 
15th cent., the W. arm of which was rebuilt in 1855-65. In the 
interior is a large modern painting by Archenaultj^epresentin" 
Christ triumphing over Death and Sin. Digitized by LnOOt^ 

204 Route 29. DOL. 

Aboat IV4 M. to. the 8. of Dinan is Lihon, with a rained ch&teaa of 
the 12-18th cent., and the church and other remains of a priory of the 
18th centnry. — The Chdteau de la Coninnais (15th cent.) is picturesquely 
situated about '/< M. to the N. Other excursions may be made to the 
ehUteau of La Belliire (SVs M.), formerly the residence of Du Guesdin's wife, 
the Lady Tiphaine, with its curious octagonal chimneys \ and to the ch&teau 
of La Oaraye, famous for the charity and self-sacrifice of Glande Toussaini, 
Gomte de la Garaye, and his wife, whose story has been pleasantly versi- 
fied by Mrs. Norton. 

Bailway to Lamballe. joining the line to Brest, see p. 178. 

A branch-railway, 13 M. long, runs from Dinan to Dinard (p. 197), 
passing Bt. Samson, Fleslin-Plouir, and PleurtuU. — Another runs to the 
S. to (24 M.) La Brohiniire (p. 223), on the line from Bennes to Brest. 

29. From S>t. Malo to Rennes and Vannes (Quimper). 
I. From St. Halo to SennoB. 

5J M. Railway in IV2-2V4 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 20, 6 fr. 20, i ft. 5 c). 

8t. MalOj see p. 194. To the right as we lea-ve St. Malo appears 
St. Servan (p. 197). — From (572 M.) La Oouesnihre-CancaU an 
omni'bus plies to Cancale (71/2 M.; see p. 198); and a branch-line 
leads to Mlnlac (p. 202). 872 M. La Fresnais. Farther on the line 
crosses the marsh of Del (see below). 

14 M. Del (Buffet, dtfj. or D. 21/2 fr. ; Grand' Maison^ in the town, 
R.from 2V2, d^j. 21/9, D. 3 fr.; Hot de la Oare), a town with*4588inhab., 
still preserves many quaint mediaeval houses, with the first stories 
projecting over the street and supported by arches. The Cathedral, 
an interesting building of the Idth and 16th cent., is dedicated to 
St. Samson, an English monk who is said to have founded a monastery 
on the site of Dol ; and some authorities are inclined to trace the 
influence of English architects in the square end of the choir and in 
other particulars (comp. p. 76). The W. facade, with its two towers 
of the 13th and 16th cent, is remarkably plain, but the S. transept 
has a handsome 14th cent, portal with a porch. There is a portal 
(15th cent.) on the S. side of the nave also, but none on the N., 
where the church touched the town-walls, and where the chapels are 
furnished with battlements. The church also possesses a central tower. 
The large window of the choir is filled with good stained glass of the 
13th century. The N. transept contains the tomb of Bishop James 
(d. 1504), by Jean Juste; unfortunately it is mutilated and has lost 
the statue. In the apse is a fine chapel dedicated to St. Samson. 

Near Carfantain, about IV4 M. to the S.E., is the Stone of Dol or of the 
Champ Dolent, a menhir 80 ft. high, surmounted by a cross. — About IV4 M. 
to the N. is the Maraia de Sol, a ferUle plain inundated in 709 but re* 
claimed in the 12th cent., and protected by a ^digue* or embankment 
22 M. in length. In the middle of the plain rises the Mont Dol (210 ft.), 
on which is situated a village with a 15th cent, church. 

Railways to Pontorton (Mont St. Michel) and Dinan, etc., see p. 178. 

24 Y2 M. Combourg (H6t. du Ghiteau et desYoyageurs ; de France). 
The town r5208 inhab.) lies about 3/4 M. to the left and possesses 
a chateau (14-15th cent.) belonging to the Chateaubriand family, in 
which the famous author of that name spent part of his childhood. — 


zed by Google 


zed by Google 

RENNES. 29. Route, 205 

We now descend the pretty valley of the canalized JlUj crossing 
the stream several times. 30 M. Dinge; 321/2 M. Moniftuilsuf-UU ; 
36 M. 8U Midard-mr-llU; 38 M. St. Oermainsur-lUe, — 421/2 M. 
Betton. — We quit the lUe valley and cross the Vilaine, 

61 M. Bennei. — Hotels. 'Hotel Hodkbnb (PI. d; ii, B, 3), Quai 
Lamennaifl 17, B. from 4, B. IV4, d^j. 3, D. 4, pens, from 12V«, omn. »U fr., 
Grand-Hotel (PI. a; A, 3), Rue de la Monnaie 17, R. from 3, B. 1, d^j. 3, 
D. i, omn. V^f'-i l>oth belonging to the same company ^ HdT. de Fkancb 
(PI. h; B, 2), Rue de la Monnaie 6, E. from 3V2, B. IVt, d^j. 8V1, D. 4 fr., 
omn. 70 c. — Continental (PI. c; B, 3), Rue d'Orl^ns; Central, Place 
St. Michel 7 (PI. B, 2), d6j. or D. 21/2, pens, from 7V«, omn. V2 fr-i Gr.-Hot. 
Parisien, to the right opposite the station, B. from 2, d^j. or D. 27?) pens. 
7-8 fr. ; H6t. de Brbtaone, to the left opposite the railway-station, R. 2-3, 
B. V«i d^J* 2, D. 2V2, pens. 6V2-7V2 fr.-, dks Votagedrs, Avenue de la 
Oare 20. Dugdbsglin, to the left of the station, both unpretending. 

Cafes. Orand-Ca/iy Ca/4 de France, at the Grand-Hotel and Hot. de 
France (see above)'; de la Comidie, Olacier, at the theatre; Or.-Ca/i de la 
Paix, at the Chamber of Commerce ip. 207) ; du Palais, de V Europe, on 
the quay. — Brcuserie-RetUiwant du Coq-d'Or, at the back of the theatre. — 
Cafi'Concert de r Alcazar, Rue du Champ- Jacquet 26 (PI. B, 2). 

Caba. Per drive !»/«, per hr. l»/« fr.; at night (10-6) 2V« and 3 fr. 

Elactrie Tramways (all passing the Place de la Mairie; PI. B, 3). 1. From 
the Station (PI. D, 6) to the Faubourg de Foughra (PI. D, 1). 2. From the 
Station (PI. D, 5) to the Cimelih'e du Nord (comp. PI. B, 1). 3. From the 
Pont de Nantes (PI. A, 5) to the Octroi de Pari* (comp. PI. D, 2). 4. From 
the Port-Cahourt (comp. PI. A, 3) to the Croix-St-HiUer (comp. PI. D, 4). 

5. From the Croix - SI - Hilier (comp. PI. D, 4) to the Cimetiere de VE»t. 

6. From the Octroi de Paris to Cesson. Fares 10-25 c. 

Steam Tramways to (13 M.) Lifr^, (20 M.) St. Aubin-du- Cormier, and 
(34 M.) Foughres (p. 223), on the N.E. ; to Liffri (see above), (24 M.) Sent, 
(35 M.) Antrain (p. 223), and (iOV? VL.) Pleine-Foug^es; to (Sy^li.) Mordaies 
and (22V2 M.) PUlan (p. 209), on the 8.W. ; to (12 M.) Chdteaugiron and (31 M.) 
La Guerche-de-Bretagne (p. 223), on the S.B. ; to (ftVa M.) La Mitiisre, (15 M,) 
HidA, (19V? M.) Tintiniac, and (35 M.) Miniac-Morvan (p. 178), on the N.E. ; 
to La Misihre (see above) and (23 M.) Bdcherel. 

Post ft Telegraph Office (PI. B, S), at the Palais du Commerce. 

Rennes, the ancient capital of Brittany, and now the chief town 
of the department of JUe - et -Vilaine , the headquarters of the 
10th army corps and the seat of an archbishop, of a university, and 
of a court of appeal, is a town of 75,640 inhab., situated at the con- 
fluence of the canalized llle and the Vilaine. 

Rennes, the capital of the Redonee, one of the Celtic tribes inhabitin| 
the Armoriccm Peninsula, was formerly called Condole (whence Cond^) and 
became a place of some importance under the Bomans. It was afterwards 
the capital of the Duchy of Brittany until the duchy passed to France 
(p. 193). Few traces of its ancient importance remain, as nearly the whole 
of the town was burned down in 1720 by a conflagration that lasted for 
seven days , and since then it has been rebuilt on a regular and monotonous 
plan. It has now little industry or commerce, and its spacious modern 
streets are generally dull, lifeless, and deserted. 

A well-built modern quarter lies between the railway-station 
(PI. D, 5) and the town proper on the right bank of the Vilaine. 
To the left of the Avenue de la Gare is the spacious Champ-de-Mars 
(PI. 0, 4), with the departmental War Monument for 1870. At 
the foot of the Avenue stands the LycSe (PI. 0, 3), an imposing 
structure in the style of the 17th cent., a room in wl^ch was used 

Digitized by V^OOk 

206 Route ^9. RENNES. Muae'e. 

for the second trial of Capt. Dreyfus, in Aug. 1899. It occupies the 
Bite of a Jesuit college, of -which the only relic now left is the 
Eglise Toussaints (PI. C, 3), a little behind the university. Farther 
on, on the quay, is the Palais Vniversitaire^ partly occupied by the 
*Mii8te (PL 0, 3), which includes various scientific collections and 
one of the finest provincial picture galleries in France (open on Sun. 
& Thurs., from 12 to 4 or 5, on other days on application). The 
principal entrance faces the quay, but on the days when the museum 
is not open to the public we enter by the back (Rue Toullier). 

Ground Floor. — Sculptures, for the most part modern and in plaster 
(Rodin^ *Bust of a woman ; David d' Angers, *Bnai of Lamennais \ C^$evox^ 
Bronze bas-relief from the old monument of Louis XIY. in the Place du 
Palais, p. 207). — A Nkw Booac here contains paintings by Corot, JHax, 
Bobert-FUwyy Dvpr^, Ziem, Prud'Jum, and Lagrenie. — The galleries beyond 
this room contain the Katubal Histoby Gollectioms. 

First Floor. — Piotubbs. The staircase and Boom I contain Engravings 
and "Drawings, by old masters, and also several paintings (by Qvido Reni, 
Drouais, Jouvenet, etc.)* — Room II. Modem paintings. 

Boom III. To the right: 235, 236. /. Courtois, Landscapes; 301. Pata, 
Landscape with rains; *84. Ds Orayer, Baising of the Cross; 21. CHordano, 
Martyrdom of St. Lawrence; 251. Ferdinand (of Bennes), Presentation of 
the Virgin. — Van Kessel, 104. Terrestrial paradise, 105. ^^oah's Ark; 271. 
/ouMne<,Ghrist in Gethsemane; 294.iron(^ior«<)Betting ; 31. Bassano, Penelope; 
85. De Grayer, Baising of Lazarus; 38. Ricd, St. Barbara; *101. Honthorst, 
Denial of St. Peter. — 89. Van Dyek (?), Holy Family; *108. Jordaent, Cruci- 
fixion; 102. Buysmans, Landscape; 17. Cerguozzi, Fruit and .flowers; 81. 
Philip de Champaigne, Penitent Magdalen (1657); 139. Rubens (?) and Snyders, 
Lion and tiger hunt; *10. Paolo Veronese, Perseus delivering Andromeda; 
110. Loth, Woman taken in adultery ; 144. Schwartz. Crucifixion. 

Boom IV. 165. P. Wouverman, Horse -fair; 29. Palomino de Velasco, 
Vision of St. Anthony. — 13. Ann. Caracci, Bepose in Egynt ; 137. Pourbus 
the Younger, Charron, the author; *296. Ze J^ain, The new-bom child; 146. 
Snyders, Wounded dog; 311. Quesnel, Portrait; *255. Claude Lorrain, Land- 
scape; 212. Bon Boulogne, Children and birds; ^i. Casanova, Destruction 
of a bridge (three other paintings of this series farther on); 135. P. Neeff* 
the Elder, Interior ; 87. Gerrit van Eees (not Decker), Landscape with cattle ; 
305. Pouesin^ Buinn of a triumphal arch; 302. Patel, Landscape with ruins. — 
3. /. de Arellano. Flowers ; Ant. Coypel, 239. Venus bringing arms to iEneas, 
240. Jupiter and Juno upon Mt. Ida; Seghers, St. John the Evangelist. — 
282. Vanloo, Portrait; 167. Wynants, Landscape; 111. Maas, A magistrate; 
96. Franeken the Younger, Jesus at the house of Simon ; 1B6. Wynants, Land- 
scape; 132. W. van Mieris, Lady at her toilette; 162. VuchelO), Man 
listening to a woman who robs him; 153. Teniers the Younger, Tavern; 
^138. RembrandU, Young woman having her nails cut by an old one ; 164. /. 
WOdens, Landscape; 134. My tens, Flte; 159. S. Koninck (not Van Tol), 
Dutch interior; 109. Leermans, Trumpeter and maid-servant; 297. Le Nain, 
Madonna, St. Anne, the Holy Child, and angels; *237. Jean Cousin CI), 
Jesus at the marriage in Cana of Galilee, a large painting from the church 
of St. Gervais, at Paris; 76. Adr. van Ostade (not Brouwer), Topers in a 
barn; 99. Van fferp, ^La Vierge au chardonneret^ (goldfinch); 224. Chardin, 
Still-life; 73. /. van der Bent, Landscape; 246. Dumoutitr, Portrait of an 
old woman; 131. Mieris the Elder, The painter's sons ; no number. Van der 
Werff, Moses saved from the water. — 72. Biga, View of Marseilles; 161. 
M. van Beemskerck, St. Luke painting the Virgin. — Casts; Sevres porcelain. 

Boom V. 331. French School, Ball at the court of the Valois ; 24. Lucatdli, 
Landscape; no number, Livy, Death of John the Baptist; 318. School of 
Fontainebleau, Woman no longer young; S25. CI. Vignon, St. Catharine; 
no number, Restout, Orpheus; 216. J. (7alk>(. Landscape. — 14. L. Cartteei, 
Martyrdom of St. Peter and of St. Paul; 276. Lebrun, Descent from the 
Cross; 262. Ferdinand, Crucifixion. — 238. IT. Coypel, Bcsurrectioni 115-130. 

Cathedral. RENNES. 29. -Route. 207 

Vem der Mtulen and hU School, Battle-pieees ; 242. De*porte$, Wolf- hunt; 
318. R. TovmUru, Portrait of a French marshal; 217. /. CalM, Landscape; 
80. *■ Velvef Brueghel^ Village on a canal. — 89. Tintoretto, Massacre of the 
Innocents; 298. Natoire, St. Stephen. 

Boom VI contains nothing of importance. The door of the staircase 
to the 2nd floor opens here. 

Boom VII. 238. Chaiffneau, Forest of Fontainebleau; no number, Bowr- 
ffogne. Gifts of autumn; 314. 8igi, The pines of Pl^d^liac. — 234. Couder, 
Tannegny-Buch&tel carrying off the Dauphin (Charles VII.) from Vincennes 
to save him from the attacks of the Duke of Burgundy (1418); 275. Lansper, 
Landscape; F. Lqfond, Momine. — 206. Blin (of Bennes), Landscape; 2G2. 
Ovillemot, Sappho and Pbaon; 295. Mouehot, Bazaar at (3airo; no number, 
Fepen-Fmrin, sleeping nymph; 207. Blin, Landscape^ no number, Fslouae, 
In a wood; 196. AM d« P^jol, Xaomi and Buth. 

The Second Floor is devoted to the Abchaological Museum, com- 
prising polished and cut stones, bronzes, foreign objects, vases, medals, 
arms, casts of ancient gems and other precious objects found in the district, 
and various other antiquities. There are also several paintings of the 
early It^an school, including a triptych ascribed to Giotto, and a re- 
presentation of Death said to be painted by King Bend of Ax^jou. — A small 
room (Salle Aussant) contains a collection of fayence. 

At the end of the Quai de rUnlverslte, to the left, rises the 
Chamber of Commerce, a large structure in the Renaissance style, 
only partly completed. It contains a school of art, the post-office, etc. 

The Pont de Berlin, to the right of the Quai de TUniversit^, and 
the street forming its continuation lead to the Place du Palais 
(PI. 6, 0, 2, 3), on^ of the principal open spaces of the town. 

On the N. side of this Place stands the Palais de Justice (PI. 
C, 2), erected for the Parlement of Brittany in 1618-54, by Jacques 
Debrosse, the architect of the Luxembourg in Paris. The somewhat 
heavy facade is preceded by statues of four eminent lawyers of 
Brittany. Several of the rooms in the interior are adorned with paint- 
ings by Coypel, Jouvenet, Jobbe-Duval, and other well known artists 
(apply to the concierge, at the end of tbe corridor on the right; fee). 

To the S.W. of the Place du Palais Ues the Place de la Mairie 
(PI. B, 3). The H6UI de VUU here, rebuilt by Gabriel, the architect 
of Louis XV., after the great fire of 1720 (p. 205), is in the form 
of a semicircle between two pavilions and is surmounted by a tower 
ending in a bulbous dome. The Theatre, on the opposite side, is also 
in a semicircular form, but presents its convex side to the Place. — 
Adjoining the H6tel de Ville is the Library, with 110,000 vols., 
600 MSS. and numerous incunabula. 

To the N.W. of the H6tel de Ville is St. Sauveur (PI. B, 3), a 
church of 1725, containing a canopied high-altar, a handsome pulpit, 
and a bas-relief of the marriage of the Virgin (altar on the S.). 

A little farther on rises the Cathedral (St, Pierre; PL A, 3), a 
building of ancient foundation but dating in its present form mainly 
from the 19th century. The facade is in the classical style. The 
interior is adorned with paintings by Le H^naflP and Jobb^-Duval. 
The last chapel in the S. aisle contains a fine altar-piece, in carved 
and painted wood, executed in the 15th century. 

In the lane opposite the cathedral rises the Porte Mordelaise 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

208 Route 29. RENNES. From Bennes 

(PI. A, 3), an interesting relic of the mediaeval fortifications of the 
town (15th cent.), surrounded by old houses. Through this gate the 
Dukes of Brittany and Bishops of Rennes made their formal entries 
into the town. 

A little to the right, farther on, is the Church of 8t. Stephen (PI. A, 2), 
of the 17th cent., containing several statues by Barri^ stained-glass win- 
, dews by Lixvergne, and a painting by Jourjon. 

We now follow the Rue de la Monnaie (PI. A, 3, B, 2). The fourth 
turning on the left brings us to a small square with a bronze statue, 
by Dolivet, of Leperdit, maire of Rennes during the Terror, who had 
the courage to resist the ferocious Carrier (p. 268). Farther to the N. 
is the large unfinished modem Gothic church of Notre- Dame-de^ 
Bonne-Nouvelle (PI. B, 2), whence the Rue St. Melaine leads to the 
E. to the church of Notre-Dame-en'Saint-Melaine (PI. D, 2), an 
abbey-church of the ll-13th cent., with a tower surmounted by a 
modem statue of the Virgin. The chief interior adornments are the 
monument by Valentin (near the entrance), the Gothic high-altar, 
and the choir screen in carved wood, all modem. 

A liUIe farther on, to the right, is the Thabor (PI. D, 2), part of the 
garden of the former Abbey of St Melaine, and now the chief open-air 
resort of Bennes •, it is embellished with a figure of Liberty and with a 
statue of Du Guesclin, the celebrated (^onn^table of France, who was bom 
near Rennes (see p. 224) in 1314 or 1320 (d. 1380). On the E. this promenade 
is adjoined by the Jardin dee Plantes (PI. D, 2), which is open to the 
public and affords extensive views. 

From the Place St. Melaine we return by the Contour de la Motte, 
passing the modern Chapelle des Missionnaires , the Prefecture, and 
the promenade of La Motte, upon an ancient moat-hill. The Rue 
Victor-Hugo leads thence to the right to the Place du Palais, while 
the Rue Gambetta descends straight to the Vilaine, which it reaches 
beside the Faculty des Sciences (PI. 0, D, 3) of the university. On 
the opposite bank begins the Avenue de la Gare (p. 205). 

A walk may be taken, on the left bank of the Vilaine, to the Chdteau 
de la Privalape, famous for its butter (2 M. to the S.£. of Bennes). 

From Bennes to Chateaubbiant (Angers), 38 H., railway in lV2-2V4hrs. 
(fares 6 fr. 85. 4 fr. 60 c, 3 fr.). — 15 M. Janzi, About 2 M. to the N.W. of the 
station of (21 M.) Retiers lies Eesi^ with a larse dolmen or *All^e Couverte* 
named the Roche awe Fie*. — At (28V2 M.) Martigni-Ferchaud this railway 
joins the line from Vitr^ (p. 223). — 38 M. Chdteaubriant, see p. 269. 

From Bennes to Brett, see B. 81 \ to Parie (Le Mans, Chartre^), see B. 30. 

II. From BenneB to VanneB (Quimper). 
a. Yi& Bedon. 
79 H. Bailwat in 2Vf3V« hrs. (fares 10 fr. 60, 7 fr. 15, 4 fr. 60 c). By 
some trains carriages are changed at Bedon, where we pass from the 
Ghemin de Fer de TOuest to the Chemin de Fer d'Orl^ans. 

The valley of the Vilaine^ which this line follows more or less 
all the way to Redon, crossing repeatedly from one bank to the other, 
affords numerous picturesque views of wooded hills and rocky summits 
surmounted by castles and chateaux. — At (23 M.) Messac our line 
's joined by one from Chlteaubriant to Ploermel (p. 209). We now 

to Vannes. PLOERMEL. 29. Route. 209 

cross a viaduct 70 ft. high aud traverse a tunnel 1/2 M. long. 32V2 M. 
Besli, At (36 M.^ MasaSrac we join the line from Chateaubriant 
and Segr^ (p. 269). The train passes through a marshy district. 
40 M. Avessac. To the left runs the railway to Nantes. — 44*/2 M. 
Bedon, and thence to Yannes and Quimper, see pp. 253-248. 

b. Yi& PloSrmel. 
• 84 M. Railway in 3V4-6V2 hra. (fares about 16 fr. 45, 10 fr. 46, 6 fr. 
75 c). Carriages are changed at La Brohini^re, Ploermel, and Questembert. 

From Rennes to (23 M.) La BrohirUhre, see p. 223. We diverge 
to the S. from the line to B^est, and traverse a bleak region, which, 
however, abounds in rude monolithic monuments. — 27^2 M. 
8t. Mcen (2966 inhab.) has an ancient abbey of the 12-13th cent^ 
nries. Branch to Loud^ac (p. 233). — 31 V2 M. Gael; 36 M. Mauron; 
4472 M. Loyal. On the right is the large Elang au Due. 

49 M. Ploermel {Hot. de France, R. from 2, d^j. 2V2i ^. 3, omn* 
1/2 ^r., good; du Commerce, similar charges), a town of &424 inhab., 
retains part of its old walls (16th cent). The Church of St. Armel, 
rebuilt in 1511-1602, with a tower added in 1740, has a very fine 
N. portal and good stained glass of the 16th century, and contains 
two sepulchral statues of the 14th century. A Romanesque cloister 
in the Petit Siminaire contains the tomb of Philippe de Montauban 
(d. 1517) and his wife, decorated with statues and statuettes. 

Fboh Plokbmel to Plouat (Lorient)y 56 M., narrow-gauge railway in 
3Va hra. (fares 6 fr. 95, 4 fr. 65 c). — Near (41/4 M.) GuiUac, to the left of 
the line, rises a modem pyramid, commemorating the famous Cdtnbat of 
Thirty, fought between ^ Breton and SO English knights iu 1351. After 
a most sanguinary contest the former, commanded by Jean de Beaumanoir, 
vanquished the latter, who were led by Bembro (Pembroke?). The story 
rests on the authority of comparatively modem Breton poets ; the tiames of 
the conquerors are inscribed on the obelisk. It is said that as the English 
were not numerous enough to provide more than 20 champions, 4 Flemings 
and 6 Bretons fought on their side. — 10 M. Joaselin (H6t. de France), a 
small town on the Oust, is commanded by the fine * Castle (12th cent., but 
practically rebuilt in the 16-17th cent.) in which the famous Gonn^table 
de Clisson died in 1407. It belongs to the Rohan family. The garden- 
facade is especially rich. Visitors admitted in the absence of the family. 
The Church of Notre-Dame-du-Soncier (15th cent.) contains the cenotaph of 
the Constable, with white marble statues of himself and his wife, sur- 
rounded by statuettes of monks. The ancient mural paintings should also 
be observed. An annual pilgrimage is made to this spot on the Tuesday 
in Whitsun -Week. — From (23V2 M.) Moulin-CHlet a branch runs to Pontivy 
(12Vs M.) and from (28V3 M.) Loemini (hotels), an old town, a line runs to 
Vannes (p. 251). —Beyond (40 M.) Baud-Camors and (42 M.) Baud- Gar e- P.O. 
our line crosses the Blavet. — ^ 56 H. Plouay and thence to Lorient, see p. 250. 

From Ploebuel to ChItsaubbiant, 58Vs M., railway in 2?/4r4 hrs^ 
(fares 10 fr. 65, 7 fr. 10, 4 fr. 65 c). — Beyond (14 M.) Gwr we cross the Aff. 
The church of (23 M.) Maure contains a bishop's tomb of tlie 14t^ century. — 
We cross the Vilaine. — SlVt M. Ueeeac, on the line from Rennes to 
Redon (p. 208). S3 M. Bain-de-Bretagne (Croissant), with 4873 inhab., has 
some quaint houses of the 15-16th centuries. — 45V2 M. Erc4-Teillay; 50 M. 
Rougi. — 58»/aM. Chdteaubriant, see p. 269. 

^ DiLiQENCB daily at 2 p.m. from Ploermel to (90»^ M.) PUlan (p. 205), 
viS Campiniac. r^ 1 

Bakdekee's Northern France. 5th Edit. Digitized by C^^OglC 

210 Route 30. RABfBOUILLET. From ParU 

Beyond Ploermel we cross the Oust twice, and follow its coarse 
as far as (69 M.) Malestroit (H6t. de France j Oroix-Verte), a quaint 
old town with a church of the 12- 15th centuries. — We then cross 
the Claye and heyond (64 M.) Pleucadeuc traverse the Landts de 
Lanvaux, — 69 V2 M. Questembert^ and thence to Vannes and Quimper, 
see pp. 263-248. 

30. From Paris to Aeniies. 

232 H. Bail WAT (Chemin d« Fer de VOuett)^ from the Gare Mont- 
parnaase (see PI. 0, 16$ p. i) or the Gare St. Basare (PL G, IQ), in 5*/4^7 hrs. 
(fares 42 fr., 28 ft. 85, 18 fr. 55 c). — From Paris to U Mmt, 131 M., raU- 
way in 8-6»/4 hrs. (fares 23 fr. 76, 16 fr. 5, 10 fr. 50 c). 

I. From FariB to Chartrei. 

54Vx H. Bailwat in lV2-2Vs hrs. (fares 9 fr. 86, 6 fr. 65, i fr. 35 c), 
from the Gare Montpamasse or the Gare St. Lazare (see ahove). Comp. 
the Map, p. 66. 

From Paris to (13V2 M.) 8t, pyr, see p. 185. Farther on the lint 
to Oherhourg diverges to the right, and we pass, on the same side, 
the fort of St. Cyr. — I7V2 M. Trappes, Ahout 3 M. to the S.S.E. 
lie the remains of the ancient Abbaye de Port-Royal ^ founded in 
1204, a favourite retreat, from 1625 to 1666, of men of learning 
and religion, around whom clustered some of the most illustrious 
younger men of the day, such as Pascal and Racine. The attach- 
ment of the society to Jansenism led to its dispersion and to the 
destruction of the convent — 20^2 M. La Verrihre ; ^y^ M. Les 
EasartS'le-Roi ; 26 M. Le Perray, We traverse a small wood. 

30 M. BamboniUet (Croix BUmehe, R. 3-6, pens. 9-12 fr., 
LioTh d'Or, both in the Rue Nationale), a town with 6165 inhab., 
known for its old chateau, where Francis I. died in 1547. The 
ch&teau afterwards belonged to Charles d'Angennes, husband of the 
celebrated Marquise de Rambouillet (d. 1665), and was acquired 
for the crown by Louis XYI. Charles X. signed his abdication here 
in 1830. 

From the station we follow the street to the left, whence the 
Rue Chasles leads to the right to (5 min.) the Place F61ix-Faure, 
from which we may enter the Small Park (see below). 

The Chdteau or Palais National, reached by the Rue Nationale 
and the avenues in the park beyond the ornamental water, consists 
of a number of incongruous buildings, surrounding an old crenelated 
tower. Neither exterior nor interior is of any special interest 

The *Parks of the chateau , which surpass the gardens of Ver- 
sailles in size, variety, and natural beauty, are the chief attraction 
of Rambouillet In front of the ch&teau is a Parterre, adjoined by 
the Small Park, The sheet of water in the latter is diversified by 
several islets (boat 60 c. per hr. for each pers.). To the right beyond 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 


zed by Google 


zed by Google 

to Rennes. GHABTRES. 30, Route. 211 

this lake is the Pare Anglais, which we reach most diiectly hy skirt- 
ing the left margin of the lake and passing through a magnificent 
avenue of Louisiana cypresses, said to he unique in Europe. The 
English Park contains streams of water, a chalet, and a hermitage. To 
the right of this park, to the N.W. of the lake, is a Dairy constructed 
by Louis XVI., with a temple and an artificial grotto. Beyond, at the 
^p of the avenue, is a Farm, where Napoleon I. kept the first merino 
£heep brought from Spain to France. To the fight, between the Pare 
Anglais and the N. part of the town, lies the Great Park, which 
covers 3000 acres and contains numerous avenues of noble trees. 
— To the N. of the town extends the Forest of Rambouillet. 

At (38 M.) Epemon, an ancient town with 2370 inhab., to the 
right, an obelisk has been erected to its defenders in 1870. 

43M.Maiiitenon(H6t.-8f<.Picm,- de toGarc,R.2V2-4,D.3V4fr.), 
a small town on the Eure, to the right of the railway, possesses a 
handsome chateau of the end of the 15th cent., which was enlarged 
and restored in the 17th cent, by Fran^oise d'Aubign<5 (1636-1719), 
widow of the poet Scarron, who took the title of Marquise de Main- 
tenon on her marriage to Louis XIY. in 1684. To the right, beyond 
the station, are the ruins of the huge Aqueduct begun by Louis XIV. 
to conduct the waters of the Eure to his gardens at Versailles. Up- 
wards of 30,000 men, chiefly soldiers, were employed on this work 
from 1684 to 1688, but it was then discontinued owing to the great 
mortality among the labourers. Louis XV. used part of the materials 
to construct a chateau for Mme. de Pompadour, which, however, has 
disappeared. — Branch-lines hence to Dreux (see p. 186) and to 
Auneau (p. 284). 

Beyond Maintenon the train crosses the valley of the Voise by 
a lofty viaduct and ascends the valley of the Eure, AS^/o M. Jouy ; 
61 M. La VilUtte-St-Prest, The train crosses the Eure, and the 
spires of Chartres now come into sight on the left. 

64V2 ^' Chartres (^Buffet, good). — Hotels. Gkand Monarque, r 
from 4, B. iV«, d^j. SVa, D. 4. pens, from 10, omn. Va ''•» oe France, 
E. from 3, B. 1, d^j. a, D. 3V«i pens, from 11, omn. V? ft".; do Doc 
DE Chartres, B. from 3, omn. 72 ir., good; all in the Place des Epars 
(PI. b, c, a; A, 4,0). 

Cafei. In the Place des Epars, and near the railway station; Ccifi 
Frangais, Boul. Chasles 20. — Bestauranti-Pitisteiies. BouHUUr^ Place 
Marceau; E. YilleiU^ Rue des Changes 45, near the cathedral, well spoken of. 

Gabs. Per drive V** per hr. 2 fr. — Steam Tramtcapt, see p. 214. 

Poit and Telegraph Offlroe (PI. 6, 4), Rue des Changes, near the cathedral. 

Giartres, the capital of the department of Eure-et- Loir ^ with 
23,219 inhah., on the left hank of the Eure, is one of the most 
important corn-markets in France, and is noted also for its spate's*. 
Most of the streets are narrow, steep, and tortuous. 

Chartres, the Autricum of th*i Carnutes (whence Chartres) , is said to 
have heen founded ahout 600 B.C., and was the centre of early Gallic 
worship and the seat of the College of Druids. The powerful Counts of 
Chartres play an important part in the history of the jjradual develop- 

212 Route 30, CHAKTRIES. From Parii 

ment of the Frencli monarchy. The dty was seyeral times besieged in 
the Konnan, Burgundian, and religious wars. Henri IV of Kayarre was 
crowned king of France here in 1594. Ghartres was occupied by the 
Germans in 1870, and formed a useful point cfappui in their operations 
against the Army of the Loire. It gives its name to a duchy, held since 
1661 as an apanage of the Orleans family, but now merely titular. It is 
to *a day at Chartres' and to the inspiration of its ^minster's vast repose' 
that we owe Mr. Bussell Lowell's ^Oathedrar. The pilgrim must be left 
to himself to identify the 'pea-green inn' at which the prudent bard *fir8t. 
ordered dinner'. Comp. also Cecil Headlam. ^The Story of Gharlres' (Lon- 
don, 1902). 

The **Oathbdbal of Noteb-Damb (PI. B, 3) is one of the grandest 
Gothic edifices in France } tradition avers that it is built above a 
grotto where the Druids celebrated the worship of a 'virgin who 
should bear a child'. The present crypt, however, dates only from 
the 11th cent., and the cathedral in its present form from the 12- 
13th cent, (consecrated in 1260). The principal tower was almost 
wholly rebuilt in 1607-14. 

The large *W. Facade, which is somewhat severe in general 
aspect, is pierced by three doorways lavishly adorned with sculp- 
tures, representing scenes in the life of Jesus Christ, with statues 
and statuettes of Prophets, the Elders of the Apocalypse, and other 
Biblical characters. Aboye the doors are three pointed windows, 
surmounted by a handsome rose-window, above which again runs 
an arcade with sixteen large statues of £ings of France. Over the 
arcade rises a gable, containing a figure of the Virgin between two 
angels and bearing on its apex a figure of the Saviour. The rose- 
window dates from the 13th, and the higher parts from the 13- 
14th centuries. The statues in the doorways are stiff and Byzantine 
in type, with flat faces, short arms, elongated bodies, and ungraceful 
drapery ; but they are, nevertheless, a distinct advance on anything 
previously achieved, and mark an epoch in the history of art. The 
facade is flanked by two fine * Towers, rising to a height of 350 ft. 
and 376 ft. The S. tower (end of the 12th cent. ; restored in 1904) 
excels the other in purity and harmony of style, while the richly 
adorned spire added to the N. tower in 1606-13 by Jehan Texier 
of Beauce is described by Fergusson (*History of Architecture*) as 
the most beautifully designed spire on the continent of Europe. 

The *8ide Portals, which are much more elaborately decorated 
than those in the W. front, date from about 1250 and are preceded 
by porches of the 14th century. The sculptures on the N. portal 
represent scenes from the life of the Virgin, and those on the S. the 
Last Judgment. The noble style of the large statues, the wonderful 
expretsiveness of the statuettes, the variety and life of the bas- 
reliefs, and the finish of the mouldings combine to range these 
portals among the most splendid examples of monumental sculp- 
ture. There are two towers flanking each of the side-portals and one 
on each side of the beginning of the apse, but none of them have 
been carried above the springing of the roof. The votive Chwpelle 
Xendomt, between the buttresses on the S., was begun in 1417. — 

to Rennet CHARTRES. 30. Route. 213 

The Chapelle 8t, Piat (16th cent), adjoining the chevet to the 
right, is entered fiom within the cathedral hy a staircase. To the 
N. of the main portal is the Pavilion de VHorloge (16th cent.), and 
to the left of the chevet is the Bishop's Palace (17th cent.). 

The *lNTBRioB producea a no less imposing effect than the exterior 
through the vast and m^estic harmony of its proportions and the parity 
of its details. It is 428 ft. long, 105 ft. wide across the nave, ISO ft. 
across the transeots, and 120 ft. high. The superb * Stained Olau dates 
chiefly from the iSth cent., perhaps the finest being that in the three wheel 
windows, each of which is 36 ft. in diameter. Above the arches of the 
nave runs a low triforium-gallery, surmounted by a lofty clerestory. The 
wide and lofty windows are either plain single openings, or are divided 
into two lights by a mullion of unusual slenderness. On the floor of the 
nave is a curious maze of coloured lines, called La Li€v«y the total length 
of which is said to be 967 ft. It is supposed to have served as a peni- 
tential path for worshippers, the stations on it corresponding to the beads 
of a rosary. Each arm of the transept has an aisle and is embellished 
with a rich wheel-window above a row of single-light pointed windows. 

The Choir and Apse are surrounded by a double ambulatory, and the 
latter is adjoined by seven chapels. The * Choir Screen is adorned with 
exquisite sculptures (4ike point-lace in stone'), begun by Jehan Texier 
about 1514 and not finally completed till two centuries later. The 41 
sculptured groups represent scenes in the lives of the Madonna and of 
Christ. At the berinning of the K. choir-aisle is a Madonna (the ^Vierge 
au PilierO of the loth or 16th cent., which is an object of great veneration. 
In a cabinet behind the high-altar is preserved the Veil of the Virgin Mary, 
said to have been presented to Charlemagne by the Empress Irene and 
to have been given to the cathedral by Charles the Bald. 

The large Crypt ^ below the choir, contains some mediocre mural 
paintings, and is of little interest to the ordinary traveller. It is reached 
by a flight of steps adjoining the 17. portal. It is open before 9 a.m., but 
after that hour those who wish to see it apply at the Maison des Clercs 
(PI. 1; B. 3), beside the S. door, where also permission to ascend the 
Tower* (375 steps ; 40 e. and fee) is obtained. 

At the corner of the Rne des Changes, to the S. of the cathedral, 
is the post-offlce, in a fine 13ih Cent. Howe (PI. B, 4), and in the 
Place de la Poissonnerie, reached thence hy the second street on the 
left, is the Maison du Saumon (PI. 2; C, 4), of the 15th century. 
From this point the Rue St. Eman leads past the Escalier de la Reine 
Berthe (PI. 2; 0, 4), a 16th cent, turret, and is continued hy the 
Rue du Bourg to the Porte Ouillaume (Pl.D, 4), an interesting relic 
of the mediaeval fortifications of the town. Crossing the moat here 
and following the boulevard to the right as far as the first hridge, 
we then ascend to the church of St. Pierre (PI. C, D, 6), a fine edifice 
(12-13th cent.) with good *8tained Glass. The apsidal chapel con- 
tains twelve splendid Limoges * Enamels, hy Leonard Limosin (1547), 
each 2 ft. high and 11 in. wide, hrought from the Chateau d'Anet 
(p. 140J and representing the Apostles (bell for the custodian on 
the left). 

The Rue St. Pierre leads hence to the N., passing near the 
Church ofSt. Aignan (PI. 0, 4, 5), a buUding of the 13th, 16th, and 
17th centuries. At No. 16 Rue St. Pierre is the new Musee de la 
Sociite Areh^ologique (open 1-4 on week-days; adm. 1 fr.). A lit*'- 
to the S.W. sUndfl the H6tel de VilU (PL B, C, 6), in the fo 

214 Route 30, OHARTRES. From Paris 

H6tel de Montescot (restored in 1614), containing the MusSe Muni- 
cipal with a few good paintings and other works of art (open on Son. 
& Thnrs., 12-4, and shown on application on other days, 11-4). 

Proceeding towards the W. from the H6tel de Yille, we reach 
the expansion of the boulevards called the Place des Epars (PI. A, 5), 
in the centre of which rises a hronze statue, by Pr^ault, of General 
Marceau (1769-96), a native of Chartres. 

Among other ancient buildings at Chartres are the Maiton du Doctettr 
or d€ Claude Hwi (PI. 4, B, i; 16th cent); the Cellier de Loim (PI. 5, B, 8; 
13th eent.), and the Church of 8t. Andri (PI. C, 2; 1103, restored in the 
16th cent.). 

The finest part of the boulevards is the Butte des Charbonniers 
(PL A, B, 2, 3), on the N.W. side of the town. To the right, at 
this point, are some remains of the old city-walls. 

A steam -tramway runs from Chartres to (20Vs M.) Bonneval (p. 284), 
and to (2V2 M.) Lh>es. Another line runs to Angerville (p. 281). 

Railway from Roum to OrUans vi& Chartres, see p. 139. — A branch-line 
runs from Chartres to (18 M.) Auneau (p. 284). 

Fboh Chabtbes to Sadmdb, 123 M., railway in 41/4-61/4 hrs. (fares 
19 fr. 30, 14 fr. 95, 9 fr. 75 c). The line at first traverses the uninteresting 
plain of the Beauce and crosses the Eure. — I6V2 M. Jlliert, a small town 
on the Loir. — 23 H. Brou (ffOM des TroU-Mariee)^ a small town on the 
Ozanne^ with imnortant markets and a Church of the 13th ceptury. Branch 
I0 La Loupe (p. 215). — Beyond (31 M.) Arrov. the junction for Ifogent-le- 
Botrou (see p. 215) , we see the chateau of Courtalain (15th cent.) to the 
left and cross the rerre by a large viaduct. — 34 M. Courtalain-St-PtlUrin 
(bufiet) is the junction of a line to Orleans (see p. 215). The country now 
becomes more varied. — Beyond (46V2 M.) Mondoubleau (Grand-Monarque), 
on the Orenne^ with a picturesque ruined castle of the 10-15th cent., the 
train descends the valley of the Braj/e, crossing the stream several times. 
From (52 M.) 8arg4-sur-Braye a line runs to (oOi/a M.) Tours (p. 296) via 
Chdteaurenault (p. 286) and Vouvrap (p. 283). From (60 M.) Betsi-sur-Brape, 
a small industrial town, a line diverges to 8t. Calais and Connerrd (see 
p. 215). — 65 M. Xe Poni-de-Braye (H6t. de la Oare) is the junction of the 
line to Venddme and Blois (p. 295), traversing the pretty valley of the Loir^ 
which our train also follows for some time. Bonsard, the poet (1524-85), 
was born at the manor ot La Poistonniire iTt\\ts\ visitors admitted), 2VtM. 
to the S. — To the right are the ch&teau of La Floite (15th cent.), two other 
ch&teaux, and several grottoes. — 71 M. La Chartre-sur-le-Loir, connected 
with Le Mans by a tramway (see p. 219). From (81 H.) Chdteau-du-Loir 
(buffet) Chrand-Hdtel). also on the railway from LeMans to Tours (p. 219), 
a. line runs vii La Fleche (p. 267) to Angers (p. 272; 29 M.). We now cross 
the Loir and quit its valley, of which we obtain a fine view as we ascend. 
We then descend into another beautiful valley. — 92i/s M. ChdUau-ta' 
Valliire, on the Fare, was the capital of a duchy which gave title to MUe. 
de la Valli^re (1644-1710), mistress of Louis XIV. Bail way from Ch&teau- 
renault to Port-Boulet. see p. 286. — 103 M. Noyant-Mion^ junction of a 
line to Ani|;ers (p. 272). — II8V3 M. Vivy ^ the junction of a line to La 
Fl6che (p. 267). — 123 M. Saumur (Oare d^OrUane)^ the principal station, 
Va M. from the town proper (see p. 271). 

n. From Chartres to Le Hans. 

76V2 M. Bailwat in 13/4-3 hrs. (fares 14 fr., 9 fr. 35, 6 fr. 10 c). 

The first station beyond Chartres is (61 1/2 M. from Paris) 81- Au- 
bin-St-Luperce. At (66 M.) CourvUU (Hdt. de TEcu) the line ap- 
proaches the Eure, ^e coarse of which it now follows, quitting the 

toRennes. NOGENT-LE-ROTROU. 30, Route. 215 

plains of La Beance for the pastures of Le Perche, on which are 
reared the excellent dranght-horses known as Tercherons'. Abont 
6V2 M. to the S. is the Chdteau de ViUebon (16-17th cent), in which 
Sully (see below) died in 1641. — 71 M. Pontgouin; 77 M. La Loupe 
(Chene-Dor^, the junction of branch -lines to (24 M.) Vemoull 
(p. 182) and to (271/2 M.) Brou (p. 214). 84 M. Bretoncelles. — 
87 V2 M. CondS-sur-Huisne or Hutne (Buffet; H6t. du Lion-d'Or). 
Fkom GoNDft TO Albmcon AMD DoMFBONT, 84Vs M., railway in S-di/a hrs. 
This line at first ascends the valley of the ffuUne^ traversing a hilly dis- 
trict. — 18 V* M. Mortagne (Grand Cerf; de France; dee Trois-MarcJiandi), an 
ancient hut decaying town with 3800 inhab.. possesses a church begun in 
1494, finished in the 16th cent., and altered in the 19th. It is an important 
horse-breeding centre, and is the junction of lines to Laigle (p. 182), Mamers 
fsee below), Ste. Gauburge (p. 183), etc. — 4IV2 M. Alen^on, see p. 187, 
Line from Surdon (Caen) to Le Mans, see pp. 186-188. — From (54 M.) 
La LaceUe a diligence plies to (7 M.) Carrougety with a curious ch&teau 
(i6-17Ut cent.), containing a 16th cent, staircase, portraits, and tapestry. -^ 
The small town of f69 H.) Pri-m-Pail is the junction of a line to (2873 H.) 
Mayenne (p. 189). 70 M. Couteme, the junction for La Fert^-Mac^ and Briouze 
(see p. 181). 76V2 M. Juviffny-sotu-Andaine. — 84Vs H. Domfroniy see p. 188. 

Our line now crosses the Huisne, the valley of which it descends 
all the way to Le Mans. 

9272 M. Nogent-Ie-Botrou {Buffet; Hdtel du Dauphin^ R. 2-3, 
D. 3^2 ^r.), a town with 8406 inhab., was the birthplace of Remy- 
Belleau, the poet (1628-77), to whom a statue was erected here In 
1897. The Castle of St, John^ of the ll-16th cent, was once the 
property of Sully (see above and p. 427). At the Hdtel Dieu is the 
handsome tomb of Sully, with marble statues of himself and his wife, 
by Boudin (1642). The church otSt. Hilaire dates from the 10th, 13th, 
and 16th centuries. In tbe Rue St. Laurent are two 16th cent, houses. 

Fkom Nogent - le - Rotkod to OblAans (p. 287), 72 M., railway In 
4V4 hrs., via (26 M.) Arrou (see p. 214), 28 M. Oourtalain-St-PeUeHn (p. 214), 
39 M. Chdteaudun (p. 284), and (57 H.) Patay (p. 140). 

IO5V2 ^< La Ferti'Bemard (St Jean; Ghapeau-Rouge), a small 
town to the left, with a fine church of the 15-16th cent., with 
curious galleries and elaborate sculptures. The H6tel deYUle is 
established in one of the old town-gates (15th cent). — 111 M. 
Sceaux-Boesse. — 116 M. ConnerrS-BeillS. 

A branch-line runs hence to (28 M.) Kamers (ff6i. du Cygne^ R. 2-3, pens. 
8-9 fr. ; (fEtpagney pens, from 71/2 fr.), a cloth-making town (5924 inhab.), 
connected by railway with Mortagne (see above) and with La Hutte-Covlombiers 
(p. 188). — Connerr^ is also the point of divergence of lines to (36V2 M.) 
Oourtalain-Si'PelleHn (p. 214), and to (20 M.) St. Calais (H6tel de France)^ 
a small town (3676 inhab.) with a ruined castle and an abbey-church of 
the 14-16th centuries. The last is connected by a short branch-line with 
(7V2 M.) Bessi-tw-Braye^ on the railway from Chartres to Saumur (p. 214). 

We again cross the Huisne. Beyond (120 V2M.) Pont-de-Oennes^ 
Montfort and (123 M.) 8t, MarS'la'Briire the train passes through 
plantations of pines. 127^2 ^* Yvre-VEvique, The names of these 
last stations are all known in connection with the important battle 
of Le Mans in 1871 (p,216), which is commemorated by a column on 
the Plateau cfAiivcws, above Yvr^-rEve<|ue. — Oi^r line re-cros^eg 

216 Route 30, LE MANS. From Paris 

the Huisne and traverses PonUieue, connected with Le Mans by an 
electric tramway and by the steam-tramway to La Ghartre (p. 219). 
To the left diverges the line to Tours. 131 M. Le Mans. 

Le Mans. — Hotels. HdTSL dd Dauphin (PI. d; G, 3), db Fkancb 
(PI. C-, B, 3), Place de la R^publiqne, R. from 3, B. IV4, d^j. 8, D» 3V« fr.; 
PB Pabis (PI. a; B, 4), Avenue Thiers 16, with lift, B. 3-5, B. 1, d€j. 3, 
D. 3V2, pens. SVa-iOVa, omn. Vs^'m new} dd Sadmon (PI. b; B, 3), Place 
de la B^publiqne, B. 1, d^j. 2Vti B. S, pens. 9. omn. 1/2 ^m good; dd Hainb 
(PI. e; B, 3), Bue des Minimes 10, B. 2, d^j. SVsi D- 3fr.; Gomtinentai., 
opposite the rail, station, very fair. — Bettaurants. Soyee, Place ^e la 
B^publique; Bufet at the railway-station. 

Cab with one horse IV4 fr. per 'course', 1 fr. 80 c. per hr. ; at nieht 
1 fr. 76 and 2 fr. 25 c. -, with two horses 1 fr. 60, 2 fr. 26 c, 2 fr., 2 fr. 50 c. 

Electric Tramways from the Flace de la RipubUque (PL B, 3) to the 
StaHon (PI. A, B, 6), to the Rue des MaUleU (PI. D, 1), to Pontlieue (PI. D, 6), 
to the Eospitca (PI. A, 1), etc. ; fare 10 c, or 15 c. with *corre8pondance\ — 
Steam Tramways, see p. 219. 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. B, G, 3), Place de la R^publiqne. 

Syndicat d'Initiative, Boulevard Ben^-Levasseur 7. 

Le ManSy formerly the capital of Maine, and now the chief place 
of the department of the Sarthe^ the headquarters of the 4th army 
corps, and the seat of a bishop, is an ancient town with 65,467 inhab., 
situated on the Sarthe, chiefly on a height rising from the left bank. 
The staple commodities are grain and flax. 

Le Mans, the ancient capital of the Aulerci-Cenomani, afterwards 
occupied and fortified by the Bomans, became under Charlemagne one of 
the most important cities in the kingdom of the Franks. Taken by Wil> 
Ham the Conqueror in the 11th cent., it had afterwards, like the towns of 
Normandy, many vicissitudes to bear during the Anglo-French wars, and 
it is said to have undergone upwards of twenty sieges. The Vendeans 
were defeated here by General Marceau in 1798; and the victorious troops, 
in spite of the efforts of some of their officers, massacred many thousands 
of the unfortunate Boyalists in the streets of the town , not even sparing 
women and children. In 1871 the Germans under Prince Frederick CSiarles 
defeated the Second Army of the Loire here in a *week of battles^ 
(Jan. 10-17th), effectually preventing the attempt to relieve Paris. 

Le Mans was the birthplace (in 1183) of Henry II., the first of the Plan> 
tagenet line of English kings. 

The Avenue Thiers leads from the station to the Prefecture and 
the church of Notre'Dame-de'la'Couturej in the centre of the town. 
In the Square de la Prefecture is a bronze statue, by Filleul, of 
Pierre Belon, a physician and botanist of the 16th century. 

The church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Couture (t.«. ^de culturi Dei* ; 
PL C, 3), dating mainly from the 12th and 14th cent., has a fine W. 
front, flanked with two unfinished towers. The *Portal, which is pre- 
ceded by a porch, is lavishly adorned with sculptures representing 
the Last Judgment (tympanum), with statues of Apostles, and statu- 
ettes of saints (on the vaulting). 

Interior. The nave, which is in a very primitive Gothic style, ha» 
no aisles and is roofed by domical vaulting, stilted in the same way as 
that of St. Maurice at Angers (p. 274). It contains several noteworthy 
pictures (by Fhil. de Champaigne^ Restota,Van Thttlden, L. Coracct, and others )\ 
and opposite the pulpit is a statue nf the Madonna attributed to O. Pilon^ 
On the walls are tapestries of the 16th century. The choir is still earlier* 


zed by Google 


zed by Google 

to Benrtes. LE MANS. 30. Route. 217 

tban the nave, the end of it being in the Romanesque style. Beneath it 
is a crypt. In the sacristy is preserved the shroud of St. Bernard, Bishop 
of Le Mans in the 6th cent., made of some Oriental fabric. 

In the PrSfecture^ Reside the chnrch, is the municipal Husenm 
(PI. C, 4; open daily, except Mon., 12-4). We enter hy the iron 
gate and the door opposite it. 

The first Gallery entered contains objects of natural history, 27 scenes 
and portraits from Scarron's *Boman Gomique^, by Coulom (of Le Hans; ca. 
1712-16), engravings, pottery, weapons, Egyptian antiquities, etc. 

Gallebt to the left: 54. L. Boulogne^ Calypso; 68. /. Brueghel^ Festival; 
36. Van Baien, Holy Family; 136. Dro^tloo/, Peasants quarrelling. More 
objects of natural history, casts, antiquities. — Room at the end, adjoining 
the first gallery. From right to left: *288. Ribera^ Christ delivered to the 
executioners; 116. Coulom^ Portrait; 292. Ronibouts^ Tobias and the angel; 
815, 316. Boudewynt and Bout* (not 8choewartz\ Landscapes; 262. Oudry^ 
Dogs fighting over a hare; 380. Unknown Artist of the 17th Cent.^ Portrait 
of Scarron, the author; 236. Mcerilhtxty Landscape. The glass-cases contain 
medals and an ethnographical coUegtion. 

Room to the right: 341. C. Vanloo^ Washing of the feet; farther on 
to the right, 194. Jolhard (of Le Mans, 1797-1861), Evening; 83. Corot^ 
Landscape; 130. Dnjohert^ Banks of the Mame; 317. Servin^ Interior of a 
cattle-shed. — 296. L. Royer^ Battle of Auvours (10th Jan., 1871) ; 193. 
Jobbi-Duval, Harvest; 234. A. if atgrnan, Waiting ; •122. L. David^ Portraits.— 
299. L. Royer^ Choir of the cathedral of Le Mans; 342. A. del Sarto. Portrait 
of the artist; 258. Moreau de Tours., Blanche of Castile. In the glass-cases 
are bronzes, antiquities, cameos, medals, enamels, etc. Among these is the 
famous *Enamel of Geoffrey Plantagenet (d. 1151), a plaque of champleve 
enamel, 2 ft. high and 1 ft. wide, representing Geofl'rey, Count of Aigou, 
father of Henry II. of England (see p. 216) and founder of the Plantagenet 
line. It originally adorned his tomb in the cathedral. A knife belonging 
to Charles the Bold with a richly chased and enamelled sheath (15th cent.) ; 
an enamelled coffer of the 13th cent.; and the grave-plate of a surgeon of 
Le Mans (d. 1673) may also be noticed. 

Grande Galebib (from right to left) : 10. Florentine School of the 14th Cent., 
St. Agatha; 61. Le BrttUy Christ in the Garden of Olives; 162. Frcms Floris, 
Last Judgment; 351. 8. Vouet, St. Veronica; 201. Kaif, Kitchen; 39. Baroccio., 
Entombment; 163. /. Fyt, Still-life; 161. Francken the Elder, Adoration of 
the Magi ; 187. JSuysmans, Landscape ; 811. Santerre, Mme. Pelletier des Forts ; 
200. Ka{f, Still-life; 60. F. Bol, Portrait; 308. Ruysdad, Landscape; 67. 
Brueghel. Loves of the gods; 271. Fourbut, Duchess of Guise; 246. Molenaer, 
Tavern interior; 46. Van Bloemen, Peasants resting; 169, 160. Fr. Franck, 
Venus; 326. Tenter*, Tavern-scene; Poutsin, 272. Child awakened by Cupid, 
273. Rebecca; 175. Rembrandt (not Orimoux), Portrait of his sister Elizabeth 
(copy); 333. A. Turcfii^ Samson and Delilah; 203. L. de La Hire, Christ in 
the Garden of Oiives. — 76. School of the Clouets, Portrait of a nobleman 
of Vibraye; 295. Ul. Roy, Execution of a murderer. — 80. Conetable, Land- 
scape; 332. Troy on. Farmer; 154. Frangais, The Seine at Bougival; 145. 
Dv^ri, Harvesters; •335. Valentin 0), St. John in Patmos; 202. La Hire, 
Irene removing the arrows from the body of St. Sebastian ; 55. L. Boulogne, 
Jupiter and Semele ; 338. Jansen van CeuUn (? ; not Vcm der Hdtt), Portrait 
of a youth; 49. F. Bol, Children and goat; Ph. de Champaigne, 70. Adoration 
of the Magi, 71. Holy Family; 60. Bronzino, Portrait; 191. K. du Jardin, 
A magistrate; •120. Cuyp 0), Portrait; 232. LuinOJ), St. Catharine; 312. 
Sehalcken, Portrait; 301. Flemish School (not Rubens), Portrait; 78, 79. School 
of the Clouets, Portraits of Catharine de M^dicis and Henri III; Jouvenet., 
*197. Presentation in the Temple, 198. Latona; •m. Kalf, Still-life; "224. 
Lesueur, Diana hunting; 31. Caravaggio {7)., Prodigal Son; 62. Ld>run, Ho- 
sannah; 147. Van Dyck, St. Sebastian. — Then some early Italian pictures, 
including No. 27. Holy Family, by Pinturicchio (?; not Pemgino). Then, 
77. School of the Clouets^ Jeanne de la Tre'mouille; 46. H. met de Bles, St. 
Christopher*'- In the glass-cases : natural history objects, medals, and fayence. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

218 Eoute 30. LE MANS. From Paris 

The Prefecture contains also the Public Library ^ open daily, 94, except 
on Snn.,Wed., and holidays. It contains 61,400 printed volumes and 500 MSS. 

The Boulevard Ren^-Levasseur leads hence to the Plaee de 
la RSpublique (PI. B, 3), in which stands a *War Monument for 
1871 (see p. 216). The statue of General Ghanzy, commander of 
the Army of the Loire, is by Grauk; the fine groups of Attack and 
Defence are hy Groisy. 

In this Place are the Bourse and the new Tribunal de Commerce 
and, farther on, the Palais de Justice and the Church of ihe Visita^' 
Hon, two 18th cent huildings, belonging originally to a convent. — 
The Rue Gambetta, which descends from this point towards the 
Pont Gambetta, passes between the General Hospital (PI. A, B, 3), 
an edifice of the 17th cent., with a fine chapel, and the Place de 
VEperon (PL B, 3), where upwards of 5000 Vendeans were wounded 
or slain in 1793 (comp. p. 216). • 

The Rue Dumas (adjoining the Grand-H6tel; PL B, 3) and the 
following streets (Rue Marchande, etc.) lead from the Place de la 
R^publique to the Place des Jacobins (PL G, 2), in which are the 
Cathedral and the Theatre, the latter constructed in 1842 on the site 
of a Gallo-Roman amphitheatre. The Tunnel on the W. side of the 
Place descends to the Sarthe. 

The Rue de )a Juiverie leads to the left from the end of the Rae 
Dumas to the former church of St. Pierre-la-Gour (12-18th cent.), at Rue 
des Foss^s-St-Pierre 6, in the crypt of which is the Archaeological Muuum 
(PI. B, 2; open daily, except Hon., 12-4). This contains antiquities and 
medieeval and Renaissance objects of art, including some ancient vases 
pottery, fayence, enamels, statues, funereal monuments, furniture, etc. 

The ♦Cathedral (PL G, 1, 2), which is dedicated to St. Julian, 
the first bishop of Le Mans (3rd cent.), consists of two yery distinct 
parts: the nave of the ll-12th cent., with some modifications in the 
Transitional style ; and the choir and transepts rebuilt on an ampler 
scale after 1217, the one in the early-Gothic style, the other in the 
late-Gothic of the 14th (S. transept) and 15th (N. transept) centuries. 
In spite of this discrepancy, however, the Cathedral of Le Mans 
ranks among the leading churches of France, and the general effect 
is one of great nobility. The "W. portal (11th cent.) is severe and 
simple, and is unrelieved by a tower. Between two buttresses to 
the right is a stone supposed to be a menhir. On the S. side of the 
nave is a Lateral Portal in the Transition style of the 12th cent., 
preceded by the crenelated Porche du Cavalier, adorned with statues 
resembling those of the great portal of Ghartres Gathedral (p. 212). 
The transept terminates at each end in a tower, of which the base 
is Romanesque and the upper portions of the 15-16th centuries. 
The soaring apse, with its girdle of chapels, is one of the most im- 
posing features of the exterior. 

The Interior presents the same striking contrast as the exterior, but 
each of the' two parts is a fine example of its own style. The nave is 
divided into iive bays roofed with domical vaulting ^ the aisles consist of 
ten bays with groined vaulting. The richly ornamented capitals deserve 
attention; and the stained-glass windows of the aisles areamon^ the most 

to Rennes. LE MANS. 30, Route, 219 

ancient known (ll-12th cent.). The transept, the vaulting of which is 
loftier than that of the nave, has an open triforium and a magnificent rose- 
window (N. arm) filled with i5th cent, stained glass. The •CAotr, with its 
donhle ambulatory, is in the purest Gothic style and is beautified by fine 
^Stained Oleus Windows of the i3-14th centuries. Among the minor features 
of interest in the interior are the tomb of Mgr. Bouvier (d. 1864), in the 
style of the 13th cent. (N. transept); two Renaissance tombs, in a chapel 
opposite 5 the tomb of Queen Berengaria of Sicily, wife of Richard Copur- 
de-Lion (iSth cent.), brought to the cathedral from a neighbouring abbey 
(S. transept); the organ-screen, in the Renaissance style; a Holy Sepulchre 
of 1610, in terracotta, painted and gilded (chapel adjoining the screen); and 
the door leading from the ambulatory to the sacristy, constructed from 
the fragments of a rood-screen of 1620. In the sacristy are five pieces of 
tapestry of the 15-16th centuries. 

The H6tel du Orabatoire, a Renaissance building opposite the 
cathedral, was formerly the canons' hospital. The Grande-Rue (PI. B, 
C, 1, 2) and various other streets in this quarter contain many quaint 
old houses. No. 11 Grande-Rue is named the House of Queen Beren- 
garia, because it occupies the site of a mansion said to have been 
occupied in the 13th cent, by the widow of Richard OcBur-de-Lion 
(see above). It contains a small art-museum (9-11 and 1-5; apply 
at No. 14; fee). 

Crossing the river by the Pont Yssoir, we next reach the church 
of Notre-Dame or 8t. Julien-du-Fri (PI. B, 1), dating mainly from 
the ll-12th cent, and well illustrating the Romanesque style of that 
period. The N. aisle contains a bas-relief of the 16th cent., re- 
presenting a procession. The frescoes are modem. 

About ^2 M. to the E. of the Place des Jacobins is the Horti- 
cultural Garden (PI. D, 2), open on Sun. and Thurs. and on Tues. 
when the band plays, and to strangers on other days on application. 

From Le Mans to Angers and to Nantes, see R. 89; to Alengon, see R. 26. 

Steam Tbahwats ('Tramways de la Sarthe') run between Le Mans and 
the following places. 1. La Ghabtbe (p. 214), SOVz M., in 2>/4 hrs. (fares 
3 fr., 2 fr. 25 c.) via Pontlieue (p. 216), Parignd-V EvSque, Grand-Luci, etc. — 
2. Maykt (see below), 3OV2 M., in 21/2 hrs. (2 fr., IV2 fr.), via AUonms, Tvre- 
le-Pdlin, etc. — 8. St. Denis-d'Obqdes, 28V2M.. in 21/2-3 hrs. (2fr. 85, 2fr. 
16 c), via Dejrrd, Loui, etc. — I. Mamebs (p. 2i5), 36V2M., and La FebtS- 
Bebnabd (p. 216), 34 M., in 3 hrs. (3 fr. 50 or 2 fr. 65 c. and 3 fr. 40 or 2 fr. 
55 c). At (23V2 M.) La Ditourhe the line forks, Mamers and La Fert^-Bernard 
lying respectively to the left and right. 

Fbom Le Mans to Toubs, 61 V2 M., railway in 2V4-3 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 20, 
7 fr. 50, 4 fr. 90 c). This line turns to the S. and traverses the Huisne. 
At (5 M.) Arnage we quit the valley of the Sarthe. 18 M. Mapet (Hot. 
du Croissant); tramway, see above. To the right and left are several 
chateaux. 231/2 M. Aubigne is the junction of a branch-line to (21V2 M.) 
La Fleche (p. 267), which passes the small town of (91/2 M.) Le Lude, with 
its handsome chateau of the 15-18th centuries. 26 M. Vaas, on the Loir, 
31 M. Chdteent-du-Loir, also a station on the line from Ghartres to Saumur 
(p. 214), We now cross the Loir and ascend the valley of the Esootais. 
4(4 M. NeuilU-Pont-Pierre (Hot. 8te. Barbe), a small town IV4 M. to the right, 
on the Chateaurenault and Port-Boulet line (p. 286). About 2 M. to the W. 
of (481/2 M.) at. Antoine-du-Roefier lies Semblangay, with the picturesque 
ruins of a castle of the 12-13th centuries. 531/2 M. Meitray, with a well- 
known agricultural reformatory for boys. At (54 M.) La Uembrolle-sur- 
Cfioisaie we join the railway from Paris to Tours vil Vendome (see p. 286). 
Beyond (56l^ M.) Fondettes-St-Oyr we cross the Loire and reach the Nantes 
raUway (R. 39 c). — 61i/« M. Tours, see p. 296. 

220 Route 30. LAVAL. From Paris 

m. From Le Hans to Bonnes. 

101 M. Railway in 2V«-4»A hrs. (fares 18 fr. 45, 12 fr. BO, 8 fr. 10 c). 

On leaving Le Mans we cross the Sarthe and obtain a fine view 
of the town to the right. — 138 M. (from Paris) La MiUsse-la-Bizzoge ; 
144 M. Domfront; 146 M. Conlie; 150 V2 M. CrissS. 

I6372 M. Bill6-le-Guillanme (H6u de Bretagne^ R. 2, d^j. or D. 
272 f'O) '^ town with 2964 Inhah., possesses a mined castle of the 
loth cent., the keep of which is 126 ft high, and a Gothic church 
with a heautiful portal of the 13th cent, and a large crypt of the 
12th. The castle was several times taken by the English. 

A branch-railway runs hence to (18 M.) La Hutte-Coulomhitrt (p. 188), 
passing (ISVs M.) Freinay-tur-Barthe (Chevalier; du Bon-Laboureur), a small 
town on a steep, rocky hill, with a ruined castle and a church in the 
Transitional style. Omn. in summer from Fresnay to (7 M.) St. Lionard- 
da-Bois and to St. Cineri, two picturesque places in the 'Alpea Mancelles\ 

Another branch-line runs to (32V3 M.) Sam (p. 267). 

167 72 M. Evron (H8t, du Commerce; Lemoine)^ a small town 
(4041 inhab.) with an interesting church (ll-14th cent.). Part of 
the rich ornamentation of the interior refers to a miracle attributed 
to some of the ^Milk of the Madonna', brought from the Holy Land 
by a pilgrim and now preserved in the church. The timber Market 
BuUdings date from the 14th century. 

FromBlvron an omnibus runs to Jublaini (Edt. de V Quest) ^ a village 
8V2 M. to the N.W., occupying the site of the Gallo-Roman NoviodunuMy 
the capital of the Diablintes^ of which considerable remains still exist. The 
most notable of these is the Castellum^ or fort, the walls of which, strength- 
ened by round and square towers, are standing to a height of 10-13 ft. — 
The omnibus goes on to (7 M.) Mayenne (p. 189). 

Another omnibus plies to Ste. Suzanne {Hdt. du Lion-d'Or, pens. 5 fr.), 
4V2 M. to the S. of Evron, with an ancient fortified wall and a ruined 

17972 M. La Chapelle-Ariihenaise^ the junction of a line to Caen 
via Flers, Domfront, and Mayenne (see R. 27). 

187 M. Laval (Buffet). — Hoteli. Hot. db l'Oobst, B. 2V2-4, dej. 3, 
D. 3, pens. 9-11 fr., db Pabis, E. 2V2-4, d€j. 3, D. SVafr., both in the Eue 
de la Paix; de la T^tk-Noibe, Rue du Pont-de-Mayenne 91. — CafU in 
the Rue de la Paix and Place de rHotel-de-Ville. 

Oaba 1 fr. per drive, at night 2 fr.*, with two horses 2 and 3 fr.; 
one piece of luggage 20, two pieces 30, three or more 50 c. 

Laval, the capital of the department of the Mayenne and the 
seat of a bishop, is a town with cotton manufactories and 29,751 
inhab., situated on the Mayenne. It was taken by Talbot in 1428, 
and changed hands several times during the wars of the League and 
La Vende'e. 

The Rue de la Gare, to the right of the station, leads to the Rue 
de la Paix and the Pont Neuf, whence a fine view is obtained, on 
the left, of the cathedral and castle, the Pont Vieux, etc., and, on 
the right, of the viaduct and pleasant promenades. Beyond the 
bridge we reach the Place de THotel-de-Ville, embellished with a 
bronze sUtue, by David d' Angers, of Ambroise Pari (1617-90), 
styled the ^Father of French Surgery', who was bom^near Laval. 

Digitized by CjOOQIC 

to Rennes. LAVAL. 80. Route, 221 

The Rue JoinAdlle, beginning at the Place de rH6tel-de-Ville. runs 
near the Church of NotrerDame or de* Cordeliers, a structure of the 14>15th 
cent, containing several fine marble altars of Ihc 17th century. 

The Castle, which is seen to most advantage from the quay 
between the Pont Neuf and the Pont Vieux, on the opposite bank, 
consists of two parts, the *01d' and the *New'. The Old Castle 
is a sombre-looking edifice, now a prison. Visitors are admitted 
(on application at the Prefecture, Rue des Trois- Croix) to the court, 
to the interesting donjon (12th cent.}, and to the chapel (11th cent.). 
The New Castle dates partly from the Renaissance period and is 
now the Palais de Justice. 

In the Place des Arts, to the right of the Place du Palais, is the Mtueum, 
containing the public library and a small archseological collection (Thurs. 
and Sat., and 1st & 3rd Sun. of each month, 1-5). 

The Cathedral is an unimposing and irregular building of the 
12th and 16th centuries. The Romanesque W. and S. portals are 
modem; but the Renaissance N. portal dates from 1676-97. The 
interior is more interesting than the exterior. The oldest part is the 
transept (12th cent.). The choir (16th cent.) has five radiating 

Behind the cathedral stands the Porte Beucheresse^ one of the 
old town-gates, in the Gothic style, flanked by two towers. — The 
Rue Marmoreau descends hence to the Place de Herc^, in which are 
the Palais de VIndustrie (1862) and the attractive-looking MusSe des 
Beaux- Arts (1891-96), containing a small collection of paintings, 
l)y Flandrin, Isabey, Lenepveu, Meissonier, etc. (adm. Sun., Thurs., 
and holidays 9-12 and 2-4 or 5). 

The Jardin de la Perrine, behind the Mus^e, descends to the 
river. To the right is the beautiful 12th cent, church of Notre'Lame- 
d'Avcnicres, with aspire of 1634. — In the Rue du Pont-de-Mayenne, 
beyond the Pont Vieux (14th cent.), rises the 15th cent, church of 
St. VenSrand^ with a fine facade. 

From Laval a branch-line runs to (20 M.) Oennes-Longu^uffe (Sabl^, 
Angers; p. 269), via (1872 M.) Meslay, whence a visit may be paid to the 
Stalactite caves (adm. 1 fr.) of Saulges (Hot. de la Grotte-&-Ma^ot). — 
A ridlway also runs to the village of (20 M.) St. Jean-sur-Erve. — From 
Laval to Mayenne, Dom/roni, Flert, and (7aen, see B. 27. 

Feom Laval to Hatenne, 72 M., railway in 6V2 hrs. (8 fr. 95, 6 fr. 
96 c). — 24 M. Ernie (p. 190). — 42 M. Laadivy- — 45V2 M. Fpugerolle*. — 
72 M. Mayenne, see p. 189. 

Fbom Laval to CHiTSAUBBiANT, 48 M., railway in 2-4V4hr8. (8 fr. 60^ 
fr. 80, 3fr. 80 c). — 13«/2 M. Coui-le- Vivien (2672 inhab.). — 28 M. Oraon 
(Perle), with 8977 inhab., on the Oudon, has a fine 18th cent, chateau. 
Branch to Ghemaz^, see p. 269. — At (80 M.) Pouanci a branch diverges 
to Segr^ (p. 269). — 48 H. Chdteaubriani, see p. 269. 

In leaving Laval the train crosses the valley of the Mayenne by 
a viaduct which affords a fine view of the town to the left. — Beyond 
(I92V2 M.) Le Genest we have a view to the right of the interesting 
old Abbey of Clermont, founded in 1150 and now converted into a 
chateau. The abbey-chuich contains some magnificent monuments 
of the Sires de Laval, dating from the 14-16th contuses. 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 

222 BouteSO, VITR6. From Paris 

2O872 M. VitrA (^Hdt. des Voyageurs, de France^ both good and near 
the station, R. 2-3, d^j. 2V21 1>. 3 fr.), an ancient town with 10,092 
inhab., is picturesquely situated on the left bank of the VUaine, It 
still retains some portions of its fortifications, a ruined castle, and 
numerous quaint mediaeval houses, and is in this respect one of the 
most interesting towns in France. Vitr^ early embraced the Pro- 
testant doctrines, and the Huguenots successfully defended them- 
selves here against the army of the League in 1589. 

On leaving the railway-station, we proceed at first to the left 
and then follow the boulevard round the old walls to the Rue Beau- 
drairie, which passes farther on between the Rue d'Embas and the 
Rue Poterie, These streets are the most quaint and picturesque in 
the town, exhibiting a singular array of old and sombre -looking 
houses of timber or stone, with galleries, sculptured ornamentation, 
balconies, and porches of the most varied description. In some cases 
the upper stories project over the foot -pavement so as to form 
covered arcades resembling those at Berne and not unlike the ^Rows' 
at Chester. 

In the Place du Ghatelet, to the left of the Rue Beaudrairie, is 
the CastUj dating mainly from the 14-15th cent., but restored in the 
19th. The castle belonged to the Seigneurs de la Tr^moille, whose 
motto (*post tenebras spero lucem'), above the gateway, is supposed 
to refer to their attachment to the Reformed faith. 

The interesting interior is entered by the Chdtelel, in which is the 
library; on the right are an 11th cent, chapel and awing used as a prison 
(to he demolished). The most important of the four towers is the Donjon 
or Tour 8t. Laurent^ in which is the small municipal Mtueum (open on the 
1st & 8rd Sun. of each month, 1-4 or 5 ; at other times odm. 50 c). Mag- 
nificent view from the top. ' 

The Church of Notre -Dame, in the upper part of the town, 
reached from the Place du Chitelet vii the Rue Notre -Dame, is 
a handsome Gothic edifice of the 16-16th cent., with a stone spire 
(203 ft. high), recently rebuilt, above the crossing. On the outside, 
to the right, is a fine pulpit of the 16th cent., bearing a symbol of 
the Trinity, in the form of a head with three faces. 

The chief treasure of the interior is the ^Triptych in the sacristy, 
dating from 1544 and consisting of thirty-two Limoges enamels depicting 
scenes from the New Testament. Among the other objects of interest are 
the holy-water basins and the stained-glass windows (all modern, except 
one of the Renaissance period in the S. aisle). 

The Rue Notre-Dame skirts the Place du Marchix and ends at 
the Place des Hallea, which contains several picturesque old houses, 
with lean-to roofs and outside staircases. Here also stands a round 
tower, forming a reUc of the old fortifications. 

From the Place des Halles we may follow the Promenade du Val^ 
in order to view the town from its most picturesque side, where the 
Ramparts and a Oate are still in existence. Turning to the left we 
regain the station. 

About 4 M. to the 8. of Vitr^, and 2Vs M. to the V. of Argentr^ (p. 223), 
is the Oh4teau dea Bochera, a mansion of the 15th cent., where Ifme. 

Digitized by CjOOQ IC 

to Rennes. F0UG:^RES. 30. Route. 223 

de S^vign^ frequently resided. Her portrait, by Ifignard, and variona per- 
sonal relics are shown. — About SVsM. to the W.N.W. of Vitr^ is CJuunpeanx^ 
with an interesting church of the loth cent, and a ruined chateau of the 14th. 
Fbom YiTBft TO PoNTOBSON (Mout St. Hichel), 49 M., railway in S-SVshrs. 
(fares 8 fr. 85, 6 fr. 95, 3 fr. 90 c). The train passes in full view of the 
castle of Vitre (to the right), crosses the Vilaine^ and ascends to the "S. 
through the picturesque valley of its affluent, the Cantaehe. — 12 M. Chd' 
Mlon-en-Vendelait. To the left is a small lake. 19 V2 M. La SelU-en- 
LuitrS, the junction of a branch-line to Mayenne (p. 189). 

23 H. Fougdrea (H6t. des Yoyagwws^ 8t. Jacques^ both in the upper part 
of the town •, de la Oare, unpretending), a busy town of 23,537 inhab., with 
large shoe -making factories, picturesquely situated on the small river 
Jftmfon. is still partly surrounded by its ancient fortifications and possesses 
a feudal castle of great extent and importance. Both castle and town were 
taken by the English in 1166 and in 1449 and underwent numerous other 
sieges. Foug^res was the scene of important contests during the Vendean 
war of 1798. 

We leave the station and the modern quarter of the town by the 
avenue to the right, and ascend to the Place d'Armes. To the left is the 
Place du Marchd, with an equestrian statue of General de la Riboitiire^ a 
native. The Bue Ballier leads thence to the Rue Nationale, in which are 
two old timber houses, and, farther on, to the Church of St, Leonard (15- 
17th cent.), with a modern portal and a Flamboyant rose-window. — 
In the opposite direction the Bue Rationale leads to a small square 
containing the Theatre. We descend to the right by the old Bue de la 
Pinterie and the Bue de la Fourchette Oeft) to the Porte St. Sulpice^ an 
old town-gateway C15th cent.), adjoining the wall of the castle. It is most 
picturesque when viewed from the outside, and commands a good view. 
A little farther on is the Church of St. Sulpice^ of the 15-18th cent., contain- 
ing some wood-carving of the 17th and 18th cent., a fine dborium, and a 
kind of altar-piece in granite (in a chapel off the S. aisle). — The Cattle^ 
commandingly situated on a rocky height, dates from the 12-16th cent., 
and presents a picturesque and imposing appearance, with its eleven battle- 
mented towers. The ruins are now being restored. — A branch-line runs 
from Foug^res to St. HUaire (p. 180). 

In leaving Foug^res the train passes through a short tunnel below the 
town. 41 Vt M. Antrain (4nter amnes"), at the confluence of the Oyeance and 
the Coueenon, — 49 M. Pontorson and thence to Mont St. Michel, see p. 199. 
Another branch-line runs from Vitr^ to (251/2 M.) Martigni-Ferchavd 
(see p. 190; for (3h&teaubriant and Kantes) via (7 M.) Argentri, with a 
ch&teau of the 15th cent., 2V2 M. to the S. of the (3h&teau des Rochers 
(p. 222), and (I51/2 H.) La Ouerehe'de-Bretagne (nop. 3151), with an old 
collegiate church, part of which dates from the 13th century. 

Beyond Yiti^ our line descends the yalley of the Yilaine, diverg- 
ing to the left from the line to Pontorson (see above), and passing 
several small stations. — 232 M. Rennes (p. 205). 

31. From Bennes (Paris) to Brest. 

155 M. Bailwat in 4V4-7 hrs. (fares 28 fr. 10 e., 19 fr., 12 fr. 40 c). 
Bestaurant-car by the morning-express. 

Rennei, see p. 205. On leaving Rennes onr line diverges to the 
right from those to Ghlteaubriant and Redon (see p. 208), and crosses 
the Vilaine. To the right runs the line to St. Malo (R. 29). -— 
1372 M. Hontfort-Bur-Hea (Cheval Blanc; CroUsant), a small and 
ancient town, with a tower of the 15th cent, and other relics of its 
former fortiflcations. — 20 M. Montauban-de-Bretagne (Oosnier), 
with a chateau of the 14-15th centuries. — 2B M. La Brohinikne. 

224 Route 31, ST. 6RIEUG. From Rennei 

Branch-line to I^oirmel and Que$tembert, see pp. 209, 210; to Dinan^ see 
p. 204. — A narrow-gauge line runs hence to (36V2 M.) Loudiac 0?. 283). 

Beyond (26 M.) Quedillac the train crosses the Ranee, 28^/2 M. 
'Caulnes; 331/2 M. Broona, birthplace of Du Guesclin(1320?-1380); 
40 M. PUnSe-Jugon, with 3696 inhabitants. 

50 M. Lamballe (Hotel de France; du Commerce), a town with 
4562 inhab., is picturesquely situated to the right of the railway. 
The hill on which it lies is crowned by the Church of Notre-Dame, a 
handsome and interesting edifice of the 13-15th centuries. 

This church was originally the chapel of the castle of the Comtes de 
!Penthi^vre, which was destroyed by Card. Bichelieu in 1626. It was in 
besieging this castle in 1590 that La l^oue, the ^Bayard of the Huguenots', 
met his death. Princess Lamballe, the unhappy favourite of Marie Antoinette, 
and one of the victims of the atrocious nia'saeres of September, 1792, was 
the widow of the last duke of Penthi^vre. 

The Place Comemuse contains some quaint old houses and the • 
Church ofSt John (1420-65: tower of the 17th cent.). — The Church 
of 8t. Martin dates ftom 10o4 but was altered in the 15th cent, and 
restored in the 19th. Beside it is a large Horse Breeding EBtablish'- 
ment (shown from 12 to 4 or 5). 

A diligence (2 fr.) plies twice daily in summer from Lamballe to Le 
Val-Andri ( Grand-Edtei et H6t. du VerdeM ; de la Ptagt, etc. ; Convent Pension), 
a sea-bathing place 9Vs M. to the K., with a casino and a sandy beach 
beneath the cliffs of Ghateau-Tanguy, passing (Ti/s H.) the village of PUneuf 
(H5t. de France). — Erquy (HOt. dee Baine)^ SVs M. to the if.E., another 
bathing-resort, is also served by a diligence (13 H. from Lamballe \ 2Vs fr.). 
Gape Fr^hel (p. 178) is 11 M. distant. — An omnibus (IV4 fr.) runs from 
Lamballe to (10 M.) Moneontour (p. 225). 

From Lamballe to Dinan^ Pontorsony Cherhourg^ etc., see B. 24. 

Beyond (57 M.) Yffiniac and Langueux the sea comes into sight 
on the right. — The train traverses a lofty embankment and viaduct 
(125 ft. high). 

63 M. St. Brieuc (Buffet), — Hotela. HSt. d'Anglbtbbbb, Place Du 
Guesclin, B. from 8, B. 1, d^. 2Vs) D. 3 fr. ; dk Fbamcb, Gboix-Blamchx, 
Rue St. Guillaume 68 and 39, B. from 2Vt, B. 1, d^j. or D. 3 fr., good; 
Gboix-Bodob, Rue de Gouedic 2, B. ^4, d^j. ^Vs, D. 3 £r. — Oaf^a. Jouhaux, 
Bue St. Guillaume ; du Champ-de-Mart, Place du (;hamp-de-Hars ; de V Untvers^ 
near the theatre. — Oaba. Per drive, 2 pers. 1V4} 3-4 pers. I1/2 fr. \ per hr. 
2 fr., at night (8-7) V^ ^^^ ^h &• extra. — Steamboats. To Le Hamre, once 
a week in 14 hrs.; fares 15, 12, 9 fr., cabine de luxe 20 fr.^ return by 
St. Halo, see pp. 142, 194. To Plymouth vi& Jereey and Ouernteyy see p. xiv. — 
Pott ft Telegraph ()ffioe, Bue de Bohan 15. — Hatha, Bue de Rohan 4. — 
British Vice-Oonaul, H. W. Beghin. —Syndicat d:' Initiative^ Bue St Guillaume 26. 

8t, Brieuc, a town with 23,041 inhab., the capital of the Cdtes- 
du'Nord department and the seat of a bishop, is situated on the 
left bank of the Oouit, about 1 M. aboTO the point where it flows 
into the Manche, The town sprang into existence round a monastery 
founded here at the end of the 5th cent, by St. Brieuc, a missionary 
from Britain. St. Brieuc contains many quaint and picturesque old 
houses, in one of which (in the Rue Fardel) James II. lived for some 
days while plotting an invasion of England. 

Following first the Rue de la Gare, opposite the station, and then 
the Rue du Lyc^e (to the right), we soon reach the Champ-de-Martt 

Digitized by V^ 

to Brest GUINGAMP. 3J. Route. 225 

with a War Monument for 1870-71, by Ogtf, a native of the town. 
To the left stands the church of 8t. QuiUaume (13th cent. ; rebuilt 
in 18^4), containing two frescoes by Gou^zou. The first turning 
to the right in the Rue St. Guillaume leads to the Orande Ptomen- 
ade^ with the Palais de Justice, behind which is the Tramway 
Terminus. — In the neighbouring quarter is the modern church of 
St, Michel, in the classical style. The street opposite this church 
and the Rue Jouallan lead to the March^ an Bl^, with the Theatre. 
Thence the Rue des Halles, to the right, leads to the Cathedral 
of St. Stephen, an edifice of the 13-15th and 18th cent., the two 
square towers of which lend it the appearance of a fortress. It con- 
tains an organ-case of 1540 and numerous monuments, many of 
which, executed by Chapu and by Og^, are erected to bishops of 
St. Brieuc. 

The Hdtel de Ville, adjoining the cathedral, contains a small Musee, 
open on Sun. and Thurs., 2-4 p.m. Opposite the cathedral is the 
Prefecture, which is adjoined by the Bishop's Palace, dating partly 
from the 16th century. The street passing to the left of the latter leads 
to Notre'Dame-d'Espirance or St. Pierre, another 13th cent, church, 
recently rebuilt. It is resorted to by pilgrims and contains a Calvary. 
The cross-street to the left brings us back to the Champ-de-Mars. 

Good views of the picturesque ravine of the Gouet and of the Bay of 
St. Brieuc are obtained from the Tertre de Bui, to the N.W., with a figure 
of the Madonna by Og^. 

The port of St. Brieuc is Le Ligui^ 1 M. to the N. (railway). About IV2 M. 
farther on stands the ruined Tour de Cetton, built in 1395 to protect the 
mouth of the river, but blown up by Henri IV in 1598. — The railway 
goes on to Sous-la-Tour, at whi<'h are a good beach and a bathing resort 
known as Bains de St. Laurent (H(^t. des Bains). 

Fbom St. Bsieoc to Gollim£:b,26>/2 M., narrow-gauiie railway in 2-2V4 hrs. 
(fares 3 fr. 30, 2 fr. 20 c), starting at the Gare de TO nest and passing the 
tramway-terminus (see above). The Viadue du Toupin (115 ft. high) over the 
valley of the Gou^dic close to St. Brieuc, and the Circular Viaduct of 
Douvenant, near the Bay ofTffiniac, are among the interesting engineering 
features of this line. — 167^ M. Koncontour (HOt. du Commerce, K. lV«-2, 
pens. 6-7 fr.), a small town with 1300 inhab., the parish-church of which 
(St. Mathurin^s) is a favourite resort of Breton pilgrims who bring their 
cattle to be touched by the reliquary of the saint. It contains some ad- 
mirable stained glass of the 16th century. The ^Pardon de St. Mathurin' 
is celebrated here on Whitmonday, attracting great crowds of visitors. 
About 1 M. to the S. is the Chapelle Notre- Dame-du-Haut with the ^Saints 
gu^risseurs\ — The line ascends rapidly. — 267« M. Collinie is situated 
at the foot of the Montague du Mdn^. 

From St. Brieuc to Pontivy and Auray^ see R. 32 ; to Quimper, see R. 33 ; 
to Quingamp vit Binic^ see R. 33. — Omnibus daily to Le ValAndri (p. 224). 

Beyond St. Brieuc the train crosses the valley of the Gouet by 
a viaduct, 190 ft. high. — 691/2 M. Plouvara-PUrruuf. — 74 M. 
Chdtelaudren. The village, V2 M. to the N., has a chapel containing 
panelling painted in the 15th cent, with 72 Biblical subjects. 

S2 M. Guingamp (^H6t. de France, R. 2-3, D. 3, pens. 8V4-9 fr., 
^ood ; de V Quest, R. from 2, D. 31/2 fr). a town on the Trieux, with 
9212 inhab., is noted for its church of Notre-Dame-de-Bon'Secours 
(14-16th cent.), one of the chief pilgrim-resorts in Brittany. The 

Bakdkker's Northern France. 5th Fdit. Digitized by uJoOQIc 

226 Route 31. MORLAIX. From Rennea 

interesting ^Pardon' takes place on the Sat. before the first Sun. in 
July. The venerated figure of the Madonna is in a 14th cent, porch 
(restored 1854) to the left of the nave ; the statues of the apostles 
should he noticed also. 

The interior of the church, which has doable aisles, is Gothic on the 
K. side, Eenaissance on the S. side. The curious heads and arms pro- 
jecting from the piers beneath the central tower should be observed. The 
most remarkable tombs are those of Marshal Rolland de Coetguerheden 
(i4th cent.) and Bishop Slorel (d. 1401). 

Quaint old houses may be seen in the main street and in the 
spacious Place de la Pompe. At the entrance to the latter is a small 
leaden Fountain of 1588 (restored in 1743). — At the end of the 
Promenade du Vally are the scanty ruins of a castle (15th cent.). 

The Gothic chapel at Grdces, a village IV2 M. to the W., dates from 
1507-21 and contains some noteworthy sculptures. 

From Guiugamp to Paimpoly Triguier^ and Lannion^ see pp. 238-240^ 
to Carhaix^ etc., see pp.236, 237 j to Bt. Brieuc by the narrow-gauge rail- 
way, see p. 237. 

The railway skirts Guingamp, affording a pretty view of the en- 
virons. 91 M. Belle-Ule-Bigard (Hot. Le Troadec). — 98 M. Plouaret 
(Hot. Rocher, unpretending but good), ^2 M. to the right, has a 
16th cent, church. 

From Plouaret to Lannion^ Perrot-Guirec^ etc., see pp. 240, 241. 

The railway traverses an undulating country, and beyond two 
short tunnels reaches (103 M.) Plounirin. 

About 2Vt M. to the S.E. lies the Chapel of K»ramenac*h, a curious 
structure of the 15th century. — A diligence plies from Ploun^rin to (7V« M.) 
Fleitin-Iei-Grevei (Grand* Maison; de§ Voyageur»)y a town with 3919 
inhab. and sea-baths IV4 M. farther on , on the fine beach at 8t. Effkun 
(Hot. du H^ron). — About 41/2 M. to the 1^. of Plestin is Looquireo iH6t. 
de* BatfM, B. 1-2, D. 2V2 fr.), another resort of the same kind, on a rocky 
peninsula. St. MicM-en-Grive^ see p. 241; St, Jean-du-Doigty p. 244. 

To the left of the railway, farther on, lies the village of Plouegat- 
Moysan^ near which is the rude chapel of St. Laurent^du^Pouldow^ a 
frequented pilgrim-resort on the night of Aug. 9-lOth, when many 
curious superstitious rites are performed. 

After making the circuit of the churchyard on their knees, the pilgrima 
climb into a kind of furnace beneath the altar, kissing the stone. They 
then rub their hands and faces on the feet of the saints statue, and finally 
plunge into a fountain beside the church, as a cure for or preservative against 
rheumatism. This last ceremony may be performed by deputy. The women 
bathe at daybreak , after the men. At midnight the men assemble in a 
neighbouring field, where various competitions are held in honour of the 
parish, followed by copious libations, for drunkenness is one of the vices 
that leaven the otherwise excellent character of the Breton. 

Farther on the Monts d' Arr^e (p. 244) are seen on the left, and we 
cross the Douron by a viaduct, 80 ft. in height. 112 M. Plouigneau, 
We cross the lofty Viaduct of Morlaix (see p. 227). 

118 M. Horlaiz (buvette). — Hotels. Hdi. de l'Eubope, B.8-6, d^j. 
or D. 3Vs, omn. >/4 fr., well spoken of ^ Bozellec, at the sUtion, E. 2-2V2, 
1^. !^V2| pons. 7 fr. ; Biunelleo ; nu Comjiebcb ; de la Postb. — Ca/i de In 
Terraue. Place Thiers. — Pott A Telegraph Office^ Rue de Brest 16. — Sttum- 
hoat to Le Havre every Wed. (comp. p. 142). 

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to Brest ST. TH^GONNEC. 3U RouU. 227 

MorlaiXj a town with 15,984 'Inhab., is picturesquely situated on a 
tidal river, about 4 M. from the English Channel. The Rue Gambetta 
describes a considerable curve in descending from the station ; a 
flight of steps to the left, near the church of St. Martin (18th cent.), 
offers a shorter route for pedestrians. At the end is the Hdtel de ViUe, 
between the Place Emile-Souvestre and the Place Thiers, both of 
which are situated above vaulted channels at the confluence of the 
Jarlot and Queffltui^ which here unite to form the Rivitre de MorLaix, 
Between the Place Thiers and the Place Cornic is the * Viaduct, 
310 yds. [long and 190 ft. high, with a bridge for foot-passengers 
below the railway. In the latter Place is a bronze bust of CorrUc- 
Duchene (1731-1809), a famous privateer of Morlaix. 

The Harbour is formed by the RiviSre de Morlaix. Morlaix 
carries on an active trade with the N. of Europe in grain, oil-seeds, 
vegetables, butter, honey, wax, leather, horses, etc. To the left of 
the wet dock is a Tobacco Manufactory. 

On the quay to the rigbt of the same dock is the Fontaine de* Anglaie^ 
marking the spot where oOO Englishmen were surprised asleep and slain 
after an attack on Morlaix by Henry VIII. (1523). 

The church of St. Melaine^ near the Place Thiers, dates from 
1560, its tower from 1574. The carvings on the font, organ-case, and 
vaulting should be noticed. The quaint old houses in the Rue St. 
Melaine, and especially the Grande-Rue (No. 14 with a fine carved 
staircase ; fee) and the Rue du Mur {Maiion de la Reine Anne, No. 33 ; 
25 c.) should be inspected. — Farther on is St. MatMeu (16th cent), 
with a massive tower of 1548. 

In the Place des Jacobins, on the other side of the Jarlot, is an 
old convent-church (with two fine windows) now containing HieMuaSe 
(Sun. and Thurs., 1-4, free; other days 25c.), which includes paint- 
ings by Delacroix, Fragonard, Troyon, and Diaz. — The quaint 
costume of the peasants is seen at Morlaix to advantage on market- 
days (Sat.). 

From Morlaix to 8t. Pol-de-Mon and Rotcoff^ St. Jean-du-Doigt^ Car- 
haiXy etc., see pp. 242-245. 

An interesting excursion (carr. 12-15 fr. ^ diligence every morning, 
1 fr.) may be made from Morlaix to (S^/s M.) Carantee (Grand-Hdtel ; Hdt. 
da Kelenn), where there is a good beach. Visitors provided with a 
permit may hire a boat here for an expedition to the (S/4 hr.) Chdteau du 
Taureau, a fort built in the 16th century. — From Morlaix we may visit 
also St. TMgonnec and Quimiliat, (carr. 12 fr.), see below. 

1231/2 M. Pleyber- Christ. — 127 M. St. Tliigonneo (H6tel du 
Commerce; de la Qrand MaUon, R. IV2, pens. 6 fr.). The town 
(3206 inhab.), I3/4 M. to the N. (omn. 1 1/2 ^0, lias a handsome 17th 
cent. Church, with good wood-carvings. In the churchyard are a 
curious Triumphal Arch (1587), an Ossuary (1581) containing a 
Holy Sepulchre of 1702, and a 'Calvary' (1610). — The line now 
crosses the Ferkzi by a viaduct 100 ft. high. 130 M. Quimiliau (H6t. 
des Yoyageurs, pens. 5 fr.) contains one of the most curious *Cal- 
varies' in Brittany adorned with statues and statuettes (1581). Its 


228 Route 31. . LANDERNEAU. From Rermes 

church, like that of Lampaid^ 2 M. to the left of the railway, dates 
from the 17th cent., with earlier features. 

134 M. Landivisian (flo«. du Commerce, R. 1V2-2, d^j. 2V2 fr., 
good) is a small industrial town (4385 inhab.), IV4 M. to the N. of 
the railway (omn. 40 c). Its interesting church, in the Flam- 
boyant style, has a fine S. portal of 1652. 

About 3i/« H. to the N.W. lies Bodilis, with & tasteful Benaissance 
church, and 4V« M. farther on, to the left of the road, arc the intereating 
ruins of the Ohdteau of Kerjean (l6th cent.). — About M. to the N.E. is 
Lambader, with a pilgrimage -chapel of the 14th cent, containing a fine 
rood-loft of 148t. Farther on are 0/«M.) Plouvom (3015 inhab.) and (IVfM.) 
the Chdteau of Kiruxori (17th cent.). 

We now descend the valley of the Elwn. — 140 M. La Roche^ 
to the leftjhas a fine church of 1559, with a remarkable tower of 1575. 
Near the station is a ruined castle, destroyed in the 16th century. 

A visit may be paid to the handsome Church of St. Salomon (15-16th cent.) 
at La Kartyre, a village 2Vt M. to the S.B., with a noted horse-fair in July. 

14372 M. Landernean (Buffet; Hdtel de VUnivers, R. from 2V2> 
D. 3, pens. 71/2 ^r» good ; Raould)^ the junction of the Nantes line 
(R. 36), is a cloth-manufacturing town with 7737 inhabitants. It 
contains many quaint houses and a mediseval bridge across the 
Elom. The church of St. Thomaa de Cantorbery dates from the 
16-17th cent.; the church of St. Huardon, rebuilt in 1860, has a 
fine tower of 1690. 

From Landbrnbau to Bkionogan, 18i/j M., railway in IVa-l'A hr. 
(fares 2 fr. 90, 1 fr. 55 c). — 2V2 M. Ptouidern; i^jt IS.. Trimaou^ean; 8 M. 
Ploudaniel (3094 inhab.). -- 10 M. Le FolgoSt (another station, see p. 232) 
is noted for the pilgrimage, on Sept. 8th, to the tomb of Salaun le 
Folgoet Cfou du bois'). The curious Church of 1419 has two fine lateral 
portals and possesses a handsome rood-loft. Behind the choir is the 
foantain of the Folgoet, with a statue of the Madonna. — 10>/s M. Lesneven 
(H6t. de France; des Trois-Pilierg), a town with 3375 inhab., has important 
horse-fairs. Line to Plabennec (Brest), see p. 232. — IdVzM. Plouider 
(2815 inhab.). Line to St. Pol-de-L€on, see p. 232. — ISVz ^. Ooulven has 
a fine church-tower of the 15th century. Megalithic monuments abound 
in the bleak environs. — 17V« M. Flouneour-Trez (2957 inhab.). — 18V« M. 
Brignogan (Hdt. des Baint-de-Uer ; des Baigneurs) has a fine sandy beach 
dotted with erratic blocks, bat-the tide recedes to a great distance. The 
'Men-Harz', a menhir 30 ft. high, is about V2 M. to the N.W. ; and the 
rocky point of Nis Vran Ccrow's nest') is l»/4 M. to the N.E. 

The railway continues to follow the valley of the Elorn and 
traverses a forest To the left is the Anse de Kerhuon, a small bay 
crossed by a lofty viaduct and containing the chief timber depot of 
the French navy. — 150 M. Kerhuon, 

A ferry (10 c.) here crosses the Elom to Le Passage^ whence a road 
ascends to (IV4 M.) Flougastel (Hdt. des Voyageurs; d'Arvor)^ a village 
noted for the quaint costumes of its inhabitants , and for the Tardon* of 
St. John, on June 24th. The cemetery contains a curious monumental 
* Calvary of 1602-4, embellished with numerous statuettes and reliefs. Large 
quantities of strawberries are grown in the neighbourhood. — Omnibus 
to (71/2 M.) Daoulas (p. 245), fare 1 fr. 

152^2 M. Le Rody also is situated on a creek. About this point 
begin the Roads of Brest^ the shores of which are well wooded and 
picturesque. The train traverses a long cutting. ^ t 




I Ua 




ti eesr 






r i 


Digitized by 



zed by Google 


zed by Google 


zed by Google 

to Brest. BREST. 3L Route. 229 

155 M. Brest. — Hotels (often full in summer). Hotel Gomtimbhtal 
(PI. a; D, 3), Place de La Tour-d'Auvergne. R. from 3, B. I1/4, d€j.8, 
D. 3Vs (la the restaurant 4 & 4V,<)f pens, from 10, omn. Vs ^'m vvoll spoken 
of; DBS VoTAGEUBS (PI. b ; D, 2, 8), Rue de Siam 16, R. from 2V2i B. IV4, 
d^j. 3, D. 3V2» pens, from 9, omn. V« ''"• » Qr.-H6t. Modebnb (PI. d; 1>, 
2), Rue Louis-Pasteur 1, R. from 2i/«, B. 1, d^j. 21/2, I>. 3, pens, from 9, 
omn. 1/2 fr'i i>B Fbancb (PI. e; D, 3), Rue de la Mairie 1, R. from 2>/3, 
B. 1, d^j. 2Vi, D. 3, pens, from 8, omn. 1/2 fr. 

Restaurants. Grand- Cafi (see below); de Parity Rue Emile-Zola 42; 
Central, Rue d'Aiguillon 50; Brataerie de la Marine, Place du Champ- 
de-Bataille; Lombard^ Rue de la Mairie. 

Cafes. Du Commerce, Rue d^Aiguillon 33 and Place du Champ-de-Ba- 
taille; Grand-Ca/4, Cafi Brettoi*, Rue de Siam 17 and 19. — Cafi-Concert 
du Caaino Brestois, Rue de Siam 111. 

Cabs. For 1-2 pers., per drive IV2, per br. 2 fr. ; 3-4 pers., 2 & 2»/2 fr. 

Sleetric Tramways: 1. From the Bue Inkermann (comp. PI. £ , 1) to 
St. Pierre-Quilbignon (comp. PI. A, 4) via the Porte du Conquet (Ist section); 
continuation to Le Conquet, see p. 231. 2. From Kermor (PI. F, 3) to 
Lambizellee (comp. PI. C, 1) via the Qa&i du Commerce, the Rue de la 
Mairie, and K^rinou (Ist sect.). 8. From the Place du Chdieau (Pi. C, 4) 
to St. Marc (comp. PI. E, 1) via the Boul. de la Marine, the Rue Louis- 
Pasteur, the Rue de Paris, and ihe Octroi St. Marc (1st sect.). Fare 10 c. 
per section, 15 c. with correspondance. 

Steamboats to Le Fret (Morgat), seep. 232; Douamenez, p. 232; Landi- 
vennecy p. 232; the lie d'Ouesaant, p. 232; to Qu4lem (Camaret) thrice weekly, 
morning and afternoon, 50 c. — Steamers ply at least once a week to 
Dunkirk (p. 37; 30 (fe 15 fr.), to Le Havre fp. 140; 20 & 10 fr.), to NcuUet 
(p. 257; 12 «fe 8 fr.), and to Bordeaux (20 & 10 fr.). — To Plymouth (Lon- 
don), see p. xiv. 

Post & Telegraph Office (PI. D, 3), Place du Champ-de-Bataille. 

Banks. Banque de France (PI. C, 3, 4), Rue de Siam 100 1 Cridit 
Lyonnais, Rue Louis-Pasteur 16; SociHi Oinirale, Rue d'Aiguillon 20. 

Warm Baths, Rue du Chllteau 15. — Sea Baths at the Casino de Kermor 
(PI. G, 3; cafd-restaurant). 

British Vioe-Oonsul, S. 8. Dickson. Place du Chateau 5. — American 
Consular Agent, A. Pitel, Kue FmileZola 11. 

French Protestant Church (PI. D, 3), Rue d'Aiguillon 4 (service at 
11 a.m.). 

Brest J a town with 85,294 inhab., the chief naval poit of Fiance, 
and a fortress of the first class, is situated in the department of 
Finisthre, the westernmost part of France, to the N. of the Roads of 
Brest. Though it possesses also a commercial harbour, its im- 
portance depends entirely upon its naval arsenal , and its history is 
practically the history of the latter. 

The town of Brest existed as early as the 4th cent., but its historical 
importance dates only from the long struggle for the possession of Brittany 
in the 14th cent, between Charles of Blois and Jean deMontfort. Edward III. 
of England, who supported the latter, obtained possession of Brest in 1842 
and the English did not relinq uish it until 1397, when Richard II. sold it to 
Charles YU. of France for 12,000 crowns. In 1489 Brest opened its gates 
to Charles Vlll. of France, and offered a successful resistance to Anne of 
Brittany, who was assisted by an English fleet. The English afterwards 
threatened Brest several times, and Lord Howard attacked it unsuccess- 
fully in 1518. Brest did not begin to be a naval port of importance until 
about 1681. Richelieu began the extensive harbour-works, and Vauban 
fortified the port in time to beat back an energetic attack of the English 
and Dutch fleets in 1694. Information of this expedition is believed to 
have been conveyed to the French court by Jacobite spies. In 1794 Admiral 
Howe defeated the French fleet, under Yillaret and Joyeuse, off Brest. 

230 Route 31. BREST. Castle. 

The town is built on two rocky hills on the banks of the Penfetd^ 
which forms the naval harbour, the chief part being on the left bank. 
Three roads lead to the town from the Station (PI. E, 3), which lies 
outside the fortifications. That straight in front conducts us in a few 
minutes to the Place du Champ'de'BatailU(V\. C, D, 3), vi&the Porte 
Foy, the Rue Voltaire (left), and the Rue de la Rampe or Rue 
d'Aiguillon (right). The two last streets lead on beyond the Place 
to the Btie de 8iam (PI. C, 3), the principal street in Brest, while in 
the other direction they end at the Cours Dajot (see below). — The 
Avenue de la Gare, to the right from the station, leads to the upper 
end of the Rue de Siam, which descends thence to the naval har- 
bour. — The street to the left from the station passes between the 
commercial harbour and the Cours Dajot to the Place du Chateau. 

The Commercial Harbour (PI. E, 3), of recent construction, in- 
cludes at present five basins, with a total area of 100 acres, with two 
moles, and a breakwater */2 M. long. The Cours Dajot (PI. C, D, 4) 
is a handsome promenade laid out in 1769, and embellished with 
statues of Neptune and Abundance, by Goyzevox. It communicates 
with the commercial harbour by flights of steps. The *Vie\D of the 
roadstead thence is particularly fine. 

Brett Boads, in which several men-of-war are usually anchored, are 
formed of an irregular bay, 14 M. long and*7 H. wide, almost landlocked 
by a peninsula, which leaves free only a single channel on the N., called 
the Ooulet, 1-2 M. broad and 3 M. long. The entrance is thus somewhat 
difficult, but the Ooulet once passed, ships find themselves in perhaps the 
largest and safest roadstead of Europe, in which 400 men-of-war can ride 
at anchor at one time. The roads are defended by powerful batteries, 
for the most part on the level of the water, and commanded themselves 
by the guns of the vast system of fortifications which guard the harbour 
and town. The peninsula of Plougastel (p. 228) divides the roadstead into 
two main parts, from which various smaller bays ramify. The part next 
the town is called the Br<u de Landemeau^ into which the Elom or Lan- 
derneau falls; the other is the Bras de Chdteaulin (p. 245), which receives 
the Chftteaulin or Aulne. 

At the W. end of the Cours Dajot, on a rock overlooking the 
harbour, rises the Castle (PI. C, 4j, an important military work, 
modified by Vauban from a construction of the 13th century. Visitors 
are admitted on application at the entrance (fee), but there is 
nothing of great interest in the interior. The *View from the Tour 
de Brest, on the side next the harbour, is, however, very fine. In- 
cluding the donjon, the castle has eight towers, the original conical 
roofs of which were replaced by Vauban with platforms, on which 
cannon were mounted. Various cells and dungeons are shown 
to the visitor, most of them with their special tale of horror or 

The *Naval Harbour (Port Militaire; PI. B, 4, 3, 2) is a sort 
of canal, 3 M. long, averaging 100 yds. in breadth, and from 30 to 
40 ft. deep , excavated in great part from the living rock, at the 
m outh of a small stream called the Penfeld. 

The *8wing Bridge {Pont Toumant; PI. B, 4), at the end of the 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

Excursions. BREST. 31, Route. 231 

Rue de Siam (p. 280), constructed in 1861 to connect Brest with 
Recouvrance, is one of the largest of the kind in existence. It is 
128 yds. long, with an average height of about 70 ft. The two iron 
wings of which it is composed turn upon tower-shaped piers ; four 
men can open or shut the hridge in 10 minutes. The visitor will 
hardly fail to he struck with the comhined boldness and lightness 
of this remarkable structure. A bridge-of-boats for foot-passengers 
crosses the harbour below the swing - bridge. — The best general 
survey of the naval port is obtained from the swing-bridge, though 
as the canal forms a series of curves, concealed by the rising banks, 
nothing like the whole of it can be seen from any one point. 

The animation and variety of the port, with th^e immense magazines, 
workshops, barracks, etc., lining it on i)oth sides, are more easily imagined 
than described. No one at all interested in naval matters should fail to 
endeavour to obtain permission to inspect the arsenal, which employs 
between 8CO0 and 9000 workmen. Permits are issued from 9 to 11 a. m. 
at the Majoritd-G^n^rale, Rue Loui?-Pa?teur 79; foreigners should present 
a passport with the vise of their consul. 

The town offers few other points of interest besides those al- 
ready mentioned. The Church of St. Louis (PI. C, 2), though founded 
in 1688, has only recently been finished. 

At Ko. 2 Rue Duquesne (PI. G, 2) U the Chapelle St. Joseph^ containing 
two 16th cent, tombstones, one of which was discovered in 1898 under the 
floor of the church of St. Lopis. In a gallery at the end is a small museum. 

Near the upper end of the harbour, on the right bank, is the Etablisse- 
mmt de* Pupilles de la Marine, where orphans are received at the age of 
seven to be trained as sailors. At thirteen they enter the Ecole dee Mouetu 
(ship-boys) on board a vessel lying in the roads, from which they are 
drafted into the navy, or pass at the age of sixteen to the Eeole dea Novices, 
on board another ship for farther training. The 'Borda% also anchored 
in the roads, contains the Naval School. 

The Music (PI. C, 3), in the Place Sadi-Carnot, is open free on 
Sun. & Thurs., 11-4, and to strangers on other days also. It con- 
tains a small collection of paintings, including works by Van Goyen, 
Coypel, and Daubigny, and the public Xiftrory. TheBofanic Garden 
(PI. 0, 2), beyond the Quartier de la Marine, is open in summer, 
on Thurs., 2-3. It includes a museum of natural history. Near it 
is the large Naval Hospital, with 1200 beds. 

ExcuBsiOKS. Various pleasant excursions may be made in the roads and 
environs of Brest by means of steamers and public conveyances. Small steam 
launches may also be had for hire. — Besides Plouffattel (see p. 228) we 
may mention the Chapel of St. Ann near (S'/a M.) Portzie, which is reached 
by a picturesque road along the coast or vi^ St. Plerre-Quilbignon (see 

From Brest to Le Conquet (Pointe de St. Mathieu), 13Vi M., tramway 
No. 1 (p. 229) to St. Pierre-Quilbignon and thence to Le Conquet (hourly 
in summer in I'/i hr.; 1 fr. 40 c, 1 fr.). — 1V« M. St. Pierre- Quilbiffnon 
(10,943 inhab.). To St. Ann's Chapel, see above. — To the left, about 
9 M. from Brest, lies the Anse de Bertheavme (two small hotels). — I8V2 M. 
Le Cctaquet (B6t. du Commerce; de Breiagne; Ste. Barbe), a small port 
with a bathing- beach, IV2 M. distant. From Le Conquet a feriy crosses 
the estuary to the Peningula of Kermorvan. — The Pointe de St. Mathieu, 
the W. extremity of Finistfere, lies 2V2 M. from Le Conquet by the coast. 
Near the lighthouse is a mined Abbey Church (12-14th cent.). Fine view. 

The He d'Onessant, a small islet inhabited by fshermen, lies about 


232 Route 31. BREST. 

14 M. off the coast, and is reached hy steamers plying from Le Gonquet in 
3-3V2 hrs. It gives name to the indecisive battle of Ushant^ fought in 1788 
between the English fleet under Eeppel and the French under D'Orvillierfl. 
Between this island and the J$l€ de Moltne^ to the S.E., are the Pierres 
VerteSj on which the English liner *Drummond Castle^ was lost, with 
300 lives, in June, 1896. 

Fkom Bbest to Mobgat. Steamer 0/2-V« fi*.) from the commercial 
harbour twice daily (thrice at the height of summer) to P/4 hr.) Le Fret, 
and omnibus thence to Horgat in 1 hr. (1 fr.). The steamer traverses 
Brest Boads from X. to 8., passing the Pointe de VArmorique on the left, 
and the Pointe de* Eepagnolt on the right. Le Fret is of no interest (sailing- 
boat to Le Passage, lO fr.). — The omnibus passes (3Va M.) Orozon (H6t. 
du Commerce)^ whence diligences ply to CMteaulin (see p. 216) and to 
Camaret (see below). — 41/2 M. Morgat COrand-Edtel de Morgat, B. from 3, 
!>• BVs) pens, from 7 fr. ; H6t. de la Plage , B. from 3, pens, from 9 fr. ^ 
Hervi, K. from 2, pens. 6-71/2 fr.), a bathing -resort on the peninsula of 
, Crozon, with interesting cliff-caverns. Boat to visit the six chief caverns, 
1-3 pers. 4 fr. — ITumerous other excursions may be made by carriage from 
Morgat: to the Cap de la Citivre (6 M.), Pointe de Dinant {JL^jt M.), to Camaret 
(Hot. de France; de la Marine), 71/2 M. to Ihe X.W., etc. Steamer to Douar- 
nenez (p. 247) in V* ^i*- (^ ^'0, twice daily in summer (except Frid.). 

Fboh Brest to Douabmenez (p. 247), steamer thrice a week in summer 
(in 3 hrs.), returning next day (single fare 5 or 3 fr.). 

Fbom Bbest to LAKDfivEmiEC, by special steamer (1 fr.) on Sun. in 
summer and by the Chateaulin steamer (p. 246) twice weekly. At Landi- 
vennee (Hot. Le Stum; Salaiin), at the mouth of the Chateaulin, is a ruined 
Alibey of the 9-11 th cent, and a 16th cent, church. 

Fbom Brest to Portsall, 22 M., narrow-gauge railway in 1*/* hr. 
(fares 2 fr. 70, 1 fr. 80 c), starting from the Oare des Chemine de Fer DiparU- 
mentaux (PI. C, 3). - 3V2 M. LamUtellec (19,916 inhab.), an industrial 
suburb of Brest. At Le Rufa, beyond a viaduct and a large brewery, the 
line to L'Aber-wrach (see helow) diverges to the right. — 4V2 M. Bohart; 
71/2 M. Guikrs. — From (IOV2 M.) St. Renan (Hot. du Commerce) an omni- 
bus plies to the prettily fitnated little harbour of Lanildvt (6 M. ; hotel). 
131/2 M. Lanrivoari has 'pardons' onthe4lh Sun. in Sept. and the 3rd Sun. 
in Oct., remarkable for the superstitious beliefs and ceremonies connected 
with its ancient cemetery. — 17V2 M. Flourin is another pilgrim - resort . 
About 41/2 M. to the W. (omn. ; 60 c.) is Argenton (hotel), a fishing-village 
with a bathing-beacb. — 20 M. Floudalmi^zean (Bretagne; Grand' Maison), 
a village with 3465 inhabitants. — 21 M. Triompan has a good bf ach. — 
22 M. PorteafX^ where the rock-bound coast is exposed to the full fury of 
the sea, is a summer-resort with a golf-course. 

Fbom Bbest to L'Abeb-wbach, 22V2 M., railway in IV4 hr. (2 fr. 80, 
1 fr. 85 c). — To Ze Rufa^ see above. — 7V2 M. Oouesnou, with a *pardon* on 
Ascension Day. — 11 M. Pldbennec (3886 inhab.). To St. Pol-de-L^on, see 
below. 14 M. Plouvien (2624 inhab.). — I8V2 M. lannilis (H6t. Lagadec) 
lies about IV4 M. from the remarkable estuary of the Aher-Benoit^ on the 
N. — 19 M. Le Coiquer; 21 M. Landida. — ^^2 M. rAber-wrach (Edt. 
Bellevue, pens. 5 fr.), a small fishing-hamlet, is situated on the estuary 
of the Aber-wrach opposite Plovguerneau (5824 inhab.). The bay to the 
W., closed by the Pointe du Libenter, offers opportunities for bathing. 
The He Vierge, to the N.E., is marked by a lofty lighthouse. 

From Brest to St. PoLDE-LfioN, 4OV2 M., railway in 3V2-4V4 hrs. (6 fr., 
3 fr. 35 c). To (11 M.) Pldbennec, see above. — 18 M. Le FolgoSt, nearer 
the village than the other station (p. 228). — 19 M. Leeneven (p. 22S); 
22V2 M. Plouider (p. 228) ; 3IV2 M. Plouescat, V/i M. from the sea — 40V2 M. 
St. Pol-de-Lion, see p. 242. 

Digitized by 



32. From St. Brieuc to Pontivy and Aoray. 

79 M. in 3>/r6 hrs. Chemin de Fer de 1 Quest as far as C46 M.) 
Pontivy, thence to (34 M.) Auray by the Liene d'Orl^ans. There is no 
through train. Fares about 14 fr. 40, 9 fr. 75, 6 fr. 25lc. 

8t. Brieuc J see p. 2Q4. Our line diverges to tbe left from that 
to Brest. — 5 M. St. Julien, 1 V4 M. to the N.E. of which is the Camp 
de Peran (or *Camp des Pierres brfiMes*), an ancient vitrified fort. 
— 6 M. Plaintelj with 2539 inhabitants. 

11 M. Qaintin (H6t, du Commerce; de la Grand' Maison)^ with 
2948 inhab., picturesquely situated on the Gouet and near a Pond^ 
is noted for its linen cloth ('toiles de Bretagne'). The Chateau 
was built in the 17-18th cent, (no-adm.). The modern church of 
Notre-Dame possesses part of the 'Virgin's Girdle', brought from 
Jerusalem in 1248 and now preserved in a golden reliquary. Behind 
the church is an old Town Gate (16th cent.). 

Diligences ply from Qnintin to (251/2 M. 5 5 fr.) Rostrenen (p. 235) via 
(lO^la M. ; 2 fr.) Corlay^ the commercial centre of this horse-breeding 
district. The ancient castle of Corlay was rebuilt in the 15th century. 

Beyond (13V2 M.) Le Pas we pass the Fore»t of Lorgea and, 
beyond the next station, the Chdteau of Lorge$ (to the left). — 
171/2 M. Ploeuc-'V Hermitage, Ploeuc (4706 inhab.) lies 88/4 M. to 
the E. — 2IV2M. Vzel^ 2 M. to the W. of the railway, has a ruined 
chateau. — 261/2 M. La Motte (2648 inhab.). 

3OV2 M. Loud^ac (H6t. de France), with 6746 inhab., is noted 
for its cloth maTiufactures. The church of St. Nicholas dates from 
1728. The large forest has an area of 6670 acres. 

From Loud^ac to Carhaix hndChdieattlini see pp. 235, 236 ; to La Brohmih'e^ 
see p. 224. 

The railway now crosses the Oust and the canal from Nantes to 
Brest. — 38V2 M. St. Girand. 

441/2 M. Pontivy (H6t. Grosset, R. 2-21/2, dej. or D. 21/2-8, 
pens. 81/2, omn. 1/2 fr. ; de France), a town with 9506 inhab. on 
the Blavet and the above-mentioned canal, grew up round a mon- 
astery said to have been founded in the 7th cent., by St. Ivy, a 
monk of Lindisfarne. In 1805 Napoleon erected a new town here, 
in order to overawe the district, which lay in the heart of the most 
royalist portion of Brittany, and changed the name of the place to 
Napoleonville. On our way from the station we pass through this 
new town, with its wide, clean streets. The sub-prefecture, the 
Hdtel de Yille, the post-office, and the court of justice are all in 
the Place Nationale here. 

The Place du Martray, in the old town, contains a tasteful stone 
House with a turret, dating from 1578. Other picturesque old houses 
may be seen in the neighbouring Bue du Fil and Rue du Pont. 

The Rue Lorois, to the right, leads to the Chdteau, of 1485, 
which was formerly a stronghold of the Rohan family and still 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

234 Route 32. GUMfiN^-SUR-SCORFF. 

belongs jo the duke of that name. Two fine towers of the original 
four are still standing. 

The Rue de I'Eglise, beginning at the Place du Martray, leads 
past an old wooden Market and an 18th cent. Chapel to the Church 
of Notre-Dame-de-la-Joiej which dates from the 16th cent, and has 
a massive tower with a modem spire. In the interior we notice the 
monumental high-altar, the old wooden statues of saints, by the 
pillars of the nave, and the recumbent statues in niches. 

In the adjoining square rises the Monument de la Federation 
Bretonne- Angevine, commemorating the agreement concluded by 
the deputies of Brittany in 1790; it consists of a column with an 
allegorical statue, by Goff and Chavalliaud (1894). — A few steps 
bring us to the bank of the Blavet, on the other side of which is the 
Hospital and behind it an old town-gate. Near a bridge we again 
reach the Place Nationale. 

Prom Pontivy to MouUn-Oilet, on the line from Ploermel to Plouay, 
see p. 209. 

Fbom PoNTivr TO Meslan, 3OV2 M., narrow-gauge railway in 2 hrs. 
(3 fr. 80, 2 fr. 50 c). The railway lirflt ascends the pretty valley of the 
Blavet. — 2V2 M. Stival^ with the 16th cent. CJiapel of St. Miriadec (good 
stained glass). V/z M. CUguirec (3633 Inhab.), 1»A M. to the N. — 17 M. 
GuSmene-Bur-Soorff (H6t. Modeme^ R. from 2, ddj. 2*12, D. 3, pens. 5-6 fr. \ 
de Bretagne ; de$ Voyageurs) is an old place with 2027 inhab. and the mins 
of a 15th cent. Chdteau. it is the hirthplace of Bisson (see p. 249). — 
2IV2 M. Lignol. — About IV4 M. to the S. of (25 M.) St. Caradee-Kemat- 
cleden is KemascUden, with the Church of Notre-Damt (1459). — 28V2 M. 
Bemi. — 3OV2 M. MeslaHy on the line from Lorient to Oourin, see p. 250. 

Beyond Pontivy the line descends the valley of the Blavet. — 
64 M. St. Nicolas-des-Eaux has a Chapel of St, Nicodemus (1639), 
which is annually visited by many pilgrims. On the day of the 
*Pardon' (the first Sat. in Aug.) the cattle of the neighbourhood are 
brought in procession to a Fountain (1608) near the chapel. Some 
of the animals are presented to the saint and are afterwards bought 
by the peasants, who firmly believe that they will bring them luck. 
— Between two short tunnels is the station of (661/2 M.) St. Rivalain. 
The station of (621/2 M.) Baud lies 3 M. to the W. of the town of 
that name, for which the line from Ploermel to Plouay is more con- 
venient (see p. 209). — 66^/2 M. Lambel-Camors is situated in the 
midst of the forest of Camors. 

Beyond (711/2 M.) Pluvigner^ a town with 6437 inhab. and a 
church of 1546, we join the line from Brest to Nantes. — 79 M. 
Auray^ see p. 251. 

33. From St. Brieuc to ftuimper. 
a. VifcAnray. 

141 M. in 6V3-9V4 hrs. Xo through train; carriages are charged at 
Pontivy and at Auray. Fares about 25 fr. (0, 17 fr. 45, 11 fr. 30 c. 

From St. Brieiic to Auray, see R. 32; thence to Quimper, 

see R. 36n. 


zed by Google 

CARHAIX. 33. Route. 236 ' 

b. Vi& Loadiac nnd Ch&teaulin. 

I28V2 M. No through train. Carriages nre changed at Londdac, whence 
we travel on a line of the Chemins de Fer Economiques, and at Chateanlin, 
where we change to the Brest and Quimper line (Chemin de Fer d' Or- 
leans). In addition there is always a fairly long wait at Carhaix. It is 
impossible to accomplish the journey in one day as the connections are 
bad, but it is an interesting route through one of the most curious and least 
known parts of Brittany. Fares from St. Brienc to Lottdtae (SOVa M.) 5 fr.50, 
3fr. 80, 2fr. 45 c.; from Loud^ac to Cftdteaulin (7» M.) 14 fr. 30, 9fr. 60, 
5 fr. 25 c. : from Chateaulin to Quimper (19 M.) 3 fr. 45, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 55 c. 

From St. Brienc to Loudiac , see R. 32. Our line skirts the 
highroad from Rennes to Brest as far as Rostrenen. The OusA is 
crossed. — 41/2 M. (from Loudiac) SU Caradec, with a church of 
1664. — 10 M. St, Gtien^ amidst characteristic scenery. — 13 M. 
MUf-de-Bretagne (H6t. de la Grande-Mai son), with 2436 inhab., 
lies on a hill to the right before the station is reached. The sur- 
roundings are attractive, particularly the Valley of Poulanere, 
33/4 M. to the N. — We reach the Blavet, cross it twice, and ascend 
its pretty valley to the left. 

16 M. Caurel lies near the fine Forest of QuSnScan, which ex- 
tends almost to Gouarec. — I8V2 M. St. Oelven. — 21 M. Bon- 
RepoSj near the ruined church (13th cent.) and other remains of 
the abbey of that name. — 23^/2 M. Gouarec (Auberge Lannezval), 
picturesquely situated, is a good centre for excursions in the valley 
of the Blavet. — 27^/2 M. Plouguemivel. 

31 M. Rostrenen (H6t. des Voyageurs et du Commerce, R. 2, 
B- ^Aj d^j. or D. 2V2 fr.)) »» old place with 2185 inhab., has a 
church (Notre-Dame-du-Boncier) founded in 1295 but afterwards 
altered and partly rebuilt in the 19th century. Diligence to Quintin, 
see p. 233. — 36V2 M. Afa«i-CarAa/x. — 4OV2 M. TrSbrivan-le- 
Moustoir. At Le Moustoir is a 16th cent, church. We join the line 
from Guingamp to Rosporden (p. 236) on the right. 

441/2 M. Carhaix (Buffet, with rooms; H6t. de la Tour d'Au- 
vergney R. 2-3, d^j. 21/2, D. 3 fr., good; de France), a town with 3600 
inhab., on the right, is picturesquely situated on a hill on the left 
bank of the Hi^re. It perhaps represents the ancient Vorganium, the 
capital of the Osismii and the point of intersection of several Roman 
roads, of which some traces remain. It has a large trade in cattle. 

The Rue des Augustins, the chief street, reached by turning 
first to the left and then to the right from the station, passes near 
the Place du Champ-de-Bataille, in which stands a bronze statue 
by Marochetti (1841) of La Tour d'Auvergnt (1743-1800), 'the first 
grenadier of France' and a native of Carhaix. The Rue du Pav^, on 
the right at the end of the Place (interesting Old House at the 
comer), leads to the old collegiate Church of St. Trimeur (16th cent.), 
which has a fine tower. Farther on, to the right beyond a square 
containing the post-office, is the 16th cent. Church of Plouguer, 
which contains some good wood-carvings. 

Bailway to Ovingomp and Botporden, see B. S3c^ to IforlafXy see p. 244. 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

236 Route 33. PLEYBEN. 

48V2 ^- Port-de-Carhaix^ on the canal from Nantes to Brest, 
which our line crosses by-and-by. — Beyond (52 M.) 8t. Hernin- 
CUden we enter the pretty winding valley of the Aulne, which is 
followed as far as Ohateaulin. — 66V2 M. Spizet-LandeUau. The 
Chapelle du Cran (1632), at Sp^zet, 88/4 M. to the S., contains ad- 
mirable stained glass of 1548. — 59 M. Plonivez-du-Faou. 

62 M. Ch&teauneuf-du-raon (H6t. du Midi), with 4016 inhab., 
is very picturesquely situated on the slope of a hill dominating the 
left bank of the Aulne. — 64V2 M. Langalet. — 67 M. Lennon. 

71 M. Tleyhen (Hot. de la Croix-Blanche , R. IV27 dej. 2, D. 
2V2 fr-)> ^^^^ b^^S inhab., stands on a plateau I1/4 M. to the right. 
It has a 16th cent, church with a tasteful porch, a handsome square 
tower terminating in an octagonal lantern, and fine stained glass 
(1564). Beside the church are a 15th cent, charnel-house and a 
curious Calvary of 1650, in the style of that at Plougastel (p. 228 ). 

Beyond (741/2 M.) St. Segal the line descends rapidly. — 77 M. 
Port'Launay, the harbour of Chateaulin, with extensive quays. — 
Crossing the Aulne we enter (79 M.) Chdteaulin. For this town and 
the line thence to Quimper, see R. 36 1. 

c. Vi& Gaingamp and Bosporden. 

95V2 M. in 6V2-9V4 brs. There is no through train. Carriages are 
changed at Guingamp, whence we travel by the Chemins de Fer Econo- 
miques, and at Rosporden, where we join the Chemin de Fer d'Orl^ans. 
Fares from St. Brieuc to Guingamp (I8V2 M.) 3 fr. 45, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 50 c.-, 
from Guingamp to Rotporden (64V2 M.) 11 fr. 75, 7 fr. 90, 5 fr. 10 c. ; from 
Rosporden to Quimper (12V« M.) 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 55 c, 1 fr. 

From St. Brieuc to Guingamp, see p. 225. — We diverge to the 

left from the line to Brest and ascend the valley of the Trieux, 

About 31/2 M. from Guingamp we see on the left the village of 

Coadout^ which is noted for its 'Pardon des Coqs' (1st Sun. in 

Advent), so called from the cocks presented to St. Ildut. The finest 

cock is placed on the belfry and when it flies down it becomes the 

property of the first person who can catch it, to whom it brings 

good luck. — 71/2 M. (from Guingamp) Moustirus-Bourbriac is the 

station for the country- town of Bourbriac (Hot. Le Ray), 88/4 M. to 

the left, which has 4326 inhab. and a church with a fine belfry of 

1501. — The line now ascends over some granite hills, covered 

with heath and furze, which form part of the chain of the Monts 

d'Arr^e (p. 244). — 12 M. Pont-Melves, 33/4 M. to the S. of which 

is Bulat-Pestivien, with a church of Notre-Dame (15-16th cent.j 

tower of 1552), interesting for its sculptures, and an important 

'pardon' (on Sept. 8th). We now reach a plateau. — 15 M. Plou- 

gonver, 21/2 M. to the right, has a belfry of 1666. — At (21 M.) 

Callac (Hot. de Bretagne), with 3629 inhab., important cattle-fairs 

are held. We descend into the picturesque valley of the Hilre, — 

271/2 M. Camoet'Locam, beyond which our line is joined by those 

from Morlaix (see p. 214) and from Loud^ac (see p. 235). 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

BINIC. 34, Route, 237 

33V2 M. Carhoix, see p. 235. — Beyond (37V2 M.) Port-de- 
Carhaix (p. 236) we diverge to the left from the line to Ohiteanlin 
(see p. 236) and ascend a pretty valley. — After passing (41 1/2 M.) 
Motre/f we ascend over the E. spurs of the Montagues Noires (see 
p. 246), a small chain of hills running parallel with the Monts 
d'Arr^e (p. 244). 

46V2 M. Gourin (H6i. du Cheval-Blanc, K IV2. d^j. 21/4. D- 
21/2 fr-)' *" o^d plaee with 6053 inhab., is situated on the S. slope 
of the Montagnes Noires, 520 ft. above sea-level, and commands a 
fine view. The church of St. Peter dates from the 15th cent, and 
the chapel of Notre -Dame from the 16th. Baside the town are 
quarries of stone and slate. Railway to Meslan and Lorient, see 
p. 250. — We descend into the valley of the Jnam, 

491/2 M. Kerbiguety with the ruins of a 16th cent, chateau. We 
traverse a viaduct 59 ft. high. — 531/2 M.Gai«cri/f, with 4972 inhab. 
and a church of 1570. The hole is crossed. — 57 M. Scaer (Hot. 
des Voyageurs), with 6565 inhab., lies to the left, short of the 
station. — 60 M. Coatloch. —Beyond (62^/2 M.) Kemivel the Pond 
ofRosporden is crossed. — 641/2 M. Rosporden^ and thence to ( 1 21/2 M.) 
Quimper, see p. 248. 

34. Excursions from St.Brieuc and from Ouingamp. 

I. From St. Brieuc to Guingamp by the Narrow-Oauge Eailway. 

34 M., in 2»/4-3 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 25, 2 fp. 86 c). 

Stations in St. Brieuc, see p. 225. Passing under the bridge 
of Rohannech we reach a point above the Haut-L^gu^ whence we 
have an admirable view over the valley of the Gouet, the plateau 
of Ple'rin, and the sea. A good 1/4 M. farther on we cross the 
Viaduct of Souzain, 316 yds. long and 120 ft. high. The branch- 
line to the right runs to the harbour (p. 225). Four more viaducts 
are crossed. Fine view to the left. — Beyond (31/2 M.) Ptirin is a 
lofty viaduct called the Viaduc du Par fond de Oouet, — 6 M. Pordic, 
2 M. from the sea. 

8I/2 M. Binic (^H6t. de France; de Bretagne; de la Plage; de 
I'Univers; furnished houses), a seaport with 2231 inhab., at the 
mouth of the Jc^ is a sea-bathing resort with a quiet, though some- 
what muddy, beach. Steamer to Guernsey weekly (p. xiv). Two 
more lofty viaducts are crossed. — 12 M. Etables (H6t. Bellevue 
et de la Plage, R. from 21/2, d6j. 3, D. 31/2, pens, from 7, omn. 
3/4 fr. 5 de la Croix-de-Pierre), with 2146 inhab., is another sea- 
bathing resort, with two small beaches respectively 1/2 M. and 2/3 M. 
from the town, — I31/2 M. Portrieuz (Hot, du Talus ; de la Plage), 
a pleasantly situated village with a good harbour of refuge, also 
frequented for sea-bathing. 

From Portbiedx to Paibipol, 16 M., mail-gig once daily (fare 3 fr.). 
Beyund St. Quay (p. 23S) we traverse a pretty, undala^ing tract and 


238 Route 34, PAIMPOL. Excursions 

gradually leave the coast. -- 6 M. Piouha (H6t. du Commerce), with 4746 
inhab., lies 2 M. from the sea. — 9V3 M. Lanloup, at the end of a valiev 
IV4 M. from the Plage de Brihec. — 12V2 M. Plouizec (inns), barely 1 M. 
from the sea, which we again approach. — From the road near (lIVaM.) 
Abbaye de Beauport we have quite a good view of the fine ruins (13-15th cent. ; 
no adm.). The ves[eiation of the gardens here is southern in character 
owing to the Gulf Stream. — 15 M. K^rity is pretlijy situated near the bay 
of Beauport. — 16 M. I-aimpol, see below. 

141/2 M. St. Quay (Hot. de La Plage,- de St. Quay; du Gerhot- 
d'Avoine)j the most attractive sea-bathing resort on this coast, has 
several line sandy beaches. — The station of (I8I/2 M.) Piouha is 
IV4 M. from the town (see above). — 231/2 M. LanvoUon (Hot. de 
Bietagne) dominates the valley of the Leff, which we cross by a 
viaduct. About 41/2 M. down the valley lies Lanleff, with the so- 
called Temple de Lanleffj an interesting circular church of the 
12th cent., modelled on a reduced scale from the church of the Holy 
Sepulchre at Jerusalem, like that at Quimperle (p. 248). — 34 M. 
Guinyamp, see p. 225. 

II. From Ouingamp to Paimpol. 

23 M. Railway in IV2 hr. (fares 4 fr. 15, 2 fr. 80, 1 fr. 80 c). — This 
is a fine excursion, the best views being to the left. 

Guingampj see p. 225. The railway crosses the Trieux^ passes 
under the Brest line, and ascends rapidly towards the N. — 6 M. 
Trigonneau-Squifflec. — 91/2 M. Plouec, junction for the branch- 
line to Treguier (see p. 239). Beyond an undulating tract we return 
to the valley of the Trieux and recross that stream. 

There are two stations at (13 M.) PorUrieux (Buvettej Grand- 
Hotel; H6t. de France], the first one 1/2 M. outside the pretty little 
town, which lies to the left on the Trieux. The river here forms a 
small harbour, which is reached by the tides. 

The line now runs above the river, which is most beautiful 
at high tide.- The Leff is crossed by a handsome bridge. — On the ' 
left bank appears the curious Chdteau de la Boche-Jagu (15th cent.). 
— • 16 M. Frinandour or Frynaudour ('nose in the water*). — 
191/2 M. PlounvO'L6%ardrieux is the station for Liza/rdrieux (Hot. 
du Commerce), another small port, 2-21/2 M. to the N., on the left 
bank, which is reached by a lofty suspension bridge. The river, 
here very wide, takes the name of Lidano. The railway finally 
quits the estuary of the Trieux. 

23 M. Paimpol (JETdt. Oiequel, Continental, at both R. 21/2-d, 
pens. 6V2-8V2» omn. 1/2 fr.), a small town (2805 iuhab.) situated 
at the end of a bay with high wooded banks, has small sea-baths 
and a Harbour, but contains little of interest. In the oval Place 
du Martrai are 8ome old houses. The Churchy of the 13th and 
15th cent., possesses a 16th cent, triptych and some old pictures. 
On a hill outside the town stands the Tour de Kerroc'h, with statues 
df the Virgin and St. Anne. — Paimpol is an important centre for 
the French boats engaged in the cod-flshery off Newfoundland and 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

from Ouingamp, TRfiGUIER. 34. Route, 239 

Iceland; and the annual departure in Febraary of the ''Ulandais 
(fishermen hound for Iceland j 'pecheurs d'Islande') is the occasion 
oi* a celebrated festival. 

Envikons op Paimpol. — To the E. of Paimpol lie (H/* M.) Kirity and 
(13/4 M.) the Ahbaye de Beauport (see p. 238). — About 7V2-« M. to the S.E., 
and nearly i M. to the right of the St. Brieuc road, is LanUff (p. 238). — 
About 5 H. to the N. and IV4 M. off the coast is the He Brehat {H6t. 
Lucas; Burton^ pens. 5-7 fr.), offering a good harbour of refuge, large enough 
for men-of-war. The island, which may be reached by the Foinie de 
lArcouest (motor-lauuch 25 c.) and the fine beach of Launay, possesses 
small sea-baths and is surrounded by curious islets and rocks. The re- 
turn is made via Ploubatlanec and by shaded roads affording many pretty 
glimpses. — A diligence plies from Paimpol to Triguier (6 M.; see below) 
via Lizardrieux (3 M. ; p. 238) in 2 hrs. (2 fr.). — From Paimpol to Portrienx^ 
see p. 237. 

m. From Oningamp to Triguier. 

20 M. Nabeow- Gauge Railway in i»/«-2Vs hrs.*, carriages changed at 
Plouec. Fares from Guingamp to PIoiiSg 1 fr. 70, i fr. 15, 70 c.j from 
Plouec to Triguier 1 fr. 30, 90 c. 

From Guingamp to (9^/2 M.) Plouec^ see p. 238. The line tra- 
verses a plateau. 11 M. Ranan, — 14^/2 M. Pommerit-Jaudy, whence 
the fine valley of Jaudy is reached. — 15V2 M» ^^ Roche- DerrUn 
(H6t. de France), on the Jaudy, has a ruined chateau and an inter- 
esting church (12th and 14-16th cent.) with a Renaissance altar- 
piece. Charles of Blois was defeated and taken prisoner here in 1347 
by Tanneguy Duchatel. The Jaudy is crossed. — 16 M. Langa%ou. 

20 M. Triguier {Utt. de France^ Rue Colvestre, R. from IV2, 
dej. or D. 2Y2. peiis. 6V2 ^r-J I^ion d'Or), a pretty town with 3028 
inhab. and a good little Harbour (5V2 M. from the sea), lies partly 
on the hills at the confluence of the Jaudy and the Guiudy, which 
unite to form the Tr^guier, Near the station, at the harbour, is the 
Calvaire de Reparation, raised in 1904 as a protest against the 
erection of a statue to Ernest Renan (1823-92), a native of Tr^guier, 
whose monument (by Boucher; 1903) stands in the Place de 
TEglise. We ascend to the town by the long Rue des Bouchers 
or by the Rue Ernest-Renan , where a tablet marks the house in 
which Renan was boin. 

The *Chureh^ formerly a cathedral, was begun in 1150 but not 
finished until 1461. Of the three transeptal towers, that to the S. 
has a spire (207 ft), that to the N. is Romanesque. The 15th cent. 
Cloisters are entered from the left transept. In the church is the 
Tomb ofau Yves (1253-1303), patron-saint of advocates ('advocatus, 
sed non latro, res miranda populo'), restored in 1890. The stalls 
(17th cent.), the lectern , and two carved wooden altars , \ in* the 
ambulatory, are noteworthy. — Behind the church the garden (now 
public) of the old episcopal palace extends down to the river. 

About V2 M. to the S., near the Pontrieux road, rise.- the belfry of 
St. Michael, a reUc of an old Gothic church (fine view). A little lower 
down, to the right of the village of Le Minihj/y is the site of the house in 
which St. Yves was born on Oct. 17th, 1253. ^^ 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

240 Route 34. LANNION. Excursions 

At PlougretcarU , 41/2 M. to the K. , is the chapel of St Gonery , con- 
taining the fine mausoleum of Ouillaume de Halgouet (d. 160S), bishop of 

Road to Lizardrieux and Paimpol^ see p. 239. 

Fbom Tb^guieb to Pobt-Blanc, 6 H. by road (carriage sent from the 
hotel at Port- Blanc to the station if ordered). — We cross the Guindy by 
the Pont Noir and pass Plouguiel and Penv^an (see below). — Port-Blane 
CUotel, pens. 4-5 fr.) is a small bathing-resort of recent origin, with a 
few villas, on a rocky coast studded with barren islets. 

FaoM TBftGDiEB TO Lanniom, 18 M., narrow-gauge railway in 1V« hr. 
(fares 1 fr. 95, 1 fr. 80 c). — The Guindy is crossed. — In the church 
of (2 M.) Plouguiel is a tomb with a 14th cent, statue. — Beyond (4Vx M.) 
Penvenan is the fine viaduct of Kerdeozer. — At (11 M.) Petit-Camp we 
join the line from Lannion to Perros-Guirec (see p. 211). 

IV. From Guingamp to Lannion. Environs of Lannion. 

26V« M. Railway in I-V/a hr. (fares 4 fr. 80, 3 fr. 26, 2 fr. 10 c). 

From Guingamp to (16 M.) Plouaret^ see p. 226. The line to 
Lannion runs towards the N. — At (21 M.) Kirauzem is an elegant 
Gothic chateau. Valley of the Leguer, see below. 

26^/0 M. Lannion. — Hotel*. Hot.db l'Eubope, Rue des Capucios, B. 2-3, 
B. 8/«i d^j- 2V2, D. 3, pens. 8-9, omn. V2 fr-j good 5 du Gband-Tcbc kt des 
VoYAOBUBS, near the station, R. 2, d^j. or D. 2V2, pens. 6V2, omn. 1/2 fr. ; 
DE Fbanoe, near the bridge. — Post ft Telegraph Office, Place du Centre. — 
Carriages at the Hot. de lEurope or from Nicol^ Avenue de la Gare. 

LannioUy a town with 5856 inhab. and a small fishing Barbour, 
in charmingly situated on the Liguer, the mouth of which faces -W. 
The town, which is an important centre for excursions, contains 
some interesting old Houses, The Church of St. Jean (16-1 7th cent.) 
has a square tower of 1519. — On a hill 2/3 M. to the N. stands the 
interesting church ot Brelioenez, dating chiefly from the 12th cent.; 
the round pillars of the nave have gi?en a little under the weight 
of the aisles; there is a crypt beneath the choir. 

Railway to Triguier^ see above. 

From Lannion to the Chateaux in the Valley of the LiauEa, 
a very interesting excursion of 4 hrs. (carr. 10 fr.). On the right 
bank lies (2'/2 M.) Buhulien^ whence we go on foot to the scanty 
but picturesque ruins of the Chdteau de Coetfrec (15th cent), on 
the left bank. About 41/2 M. from Buhulien, via (31/2 M) Ton- 
quedee^ lie the ruins of the large Chdteau de Tonquidee (fee), 
dominating the right bank ; this chateau was already a ruin in 1395 
and was rebuilt in the 15th century. Proceeding thence towards 
Lannion we first visit the Chateau deKergrist and then theChapelle 
de Kerfons (those wishing to take train from K^rauzern , 2 M. 
from Kergrist, visit Kerfons first). The Chdteau de Kergrut (15th 
cent.; still inhabited) is 21/2-3 M. to the S.W. of the Chateau de 
Tonqu^dec, vl^ Kermorgan^ where the road to Lannion along the 
left bank diverges to the right. About 1/2 M. farther S. stood the 
Chdteau de Runfau, of which only the chapel remains (15th cent.). — 
The Chapelle de Kerfom or Kerfaouez^ in the direction of Lannion, 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

from Guingamp, PERROS-GUIBEC. 34, Route. 241 

near the left bank of the L^guer, is reached hy a path diverging to 
the right from the highroad 2/3 M. from Kermorgan (see p. 240 ; in 
all 3/4 M. from Kermorgan). It dates from the 16th cent, and is 
interesting for its wooden rood-screen of the period. We are here 
41/2 M. fromLannion, which is reached via (2M.^Ploubezre, a large 
village with an interesting chnrch and calvary. 

Fbom Laitnion to Plbstin (p. 226), IOI/2 M. The road runs vilt 
(7M.) St. Michel-en-Orhve (H6t. de la Plage; Lion d'Or; Bellevne) 
and St, Efflam (p. 226), situated at the two extremities of the exten- 
sive Ldeue de Greve, on the site of a former forest said to have been 
swallowed up by the sea in 709, like the Marais de Dol (p. 204). 

Fbom Lannion to Tb^bbubdbn, 71/2 M. (diligence daily, 2 fr. j 
carr. 10 fr.). Tribeurden (H6t. Martret, good) is a sea-bathing 
resort in a charming situation, with two fine beaches and a small 
harbour at the mouth of the L^guer , where there are numerous 
picturesque rocky islets. It may be reached also by boat from Lannion. 

Fbom Lannion to Pbbbos-Guibec, 8 M., narrow-gauge railway in 
40 min. from the Gare de TOuest (fares 1 fr., 65 c). — iVz M. Petit-Camp^ 
junction for the line to Tr^guier (see p. 240). 

8 M. PerrOB-Guirec {H6t. du Levant^ dea Bains, both unpretend- 
ing), a small harbour prettily situated on the bay of the same 
name, has two bathing-beaches, viz. the fine beach of *Trestraou 
(Gr.-H6t. de la Plage, R. 3-6, dej. 21/2, D- 3, pens. 7-9, omn. 
V2 ff • ; H6t. des Bains), with the most important baths , and the 
beach of Tre8tngnel(Qi. 'B.6t. de Perros-Guirec, R. 3-5, B.l, d^j.3, 
D. 31/2, poiis. 7-9, omn. 1 fr.). 

Fbom Pebbos-Guikec to Tb^gastsl, 4V2 M. via,.Trestraou (see above) 
and the chapel of Notre-Dame de-la- Clart4 (Hot. de la'Clart^, open July 1st- 
Sept. 30th, pens. 5-8 fr.), which appears on the hill and whence we have 
a good view. The direct route passes Vs ^* to the right of Floumanac'h 
(Hot. Bellevue; des Rochers), a village with a small harbour in a chaos 
of curiously shaped Roeks. On the hither side of its lighthouse is the little 
Clutpelle St. Quirec, with a statue into which pins are stuck by girls who 
wish to be married. Opposite, in the sea, lie the Seven Islands^ the chief 
of which is the He aux Moinet, with a lighthouse and a dismantled fort. 

Fbom Lannion to Tb^gabtel, 8 M., diligence once daily in the 
season (2 fr.). With a carriage (10 fr.) the excursions to Perros-Guirec 
and to Tr^astel may be combined. 

The road begins at the ^nd of the harbour, at the extremity of 
the promenade called the AlMe-Verte, and ascends towards the N., 
leaving a road to Perros-Guirec on the left. The route is uninterest- 
ing until we approach the sea. — Before reaching (6 M.) Tregastel 
(not the Tr^gastel near Plougasnou, p. 244) we pass a curious 
Calvary. — 8 M. Plage de Trigastel (H6t. de la Plage , de la Mer, 
at both R. 11/2, dtfj. or D. 2, pens. 6 fr.). This part of the coast is 
chiefly noted for its curious Rocks, which are arranged in groups 
worn by the sea into the most singular shapes. ' The beach of yellow 
sand slopes gradually, so that the tide goes a long way out. 

From Tr^astel to Plovmanac^h and to FeiTos-OvireCy see above., 

Bakdkkkb's ITorthem France. 5th Edit. 16 jl^ 


35. Excursions from Morlaix. 

I. From Morlaiz to St. Fol-de-L^on and to Boscoff. 

17V2 M. Eailwat to St. Pol, 13 V2 M., in 40-46 min. (fares 2 fr. eO, 
1 fr. 76, 1 fr. 15 c.) ; thrnce to Boscoff in 12 min. (FO, 56, 80 c). 

Morlaix, see p. 226. The branch-line to Roscoff diverges to the 
right from the main line beyond Morlaix. — Beyond (7 M.) TauU- 
Henvic the Pen»S Is crossed by a viaduct 100 ft high. — IO72 M. 
PlouSnan. To the right, in the distance, appear the spires of St. Pol- 
de-L^on and the estuary of the Penz^. 

131/2 M. St. Pol-de-L6on (^Hdt. de France^ plain), a quiet town 
with 8140 inhab., lies 1/2 M. from the sea, where its little harbour 
of PempotU is situated. 

It was founded in the 6th cent, by St. Pol^ a Welsh monk and first 
bishop of the town. The two fine religious monuments preserved here 
attest its importance in the middle ages. 

The *ChapelU du Creizker (*centre of the town' in Breton), dating 
chiefly from the 14th cent., is noted for its open-work *Tower (266 ft. 
high), with a spire surrounded by turrets. We enter by the N. porcb, 
an elaborately carved work of the 16th century. The handsome piers 
supporting the tower, with their slender clustered columns; the 
windows at each end and on the S. side; and an altar surmounted 
by a wooden altar-piece with twisted columns, on the right, are the 
chief points of interest in the interior. 

The former * Cathedral, a curious building of the 13-16th cent., 
with two handsome open-work Tovers, 180 ft. high, presents pecul- 
iarities that are hardly to be found united elsewhere. These include 
a porch with a terrace intended for benedictions, a lepers' door to 
the right of the main entrance, a catechumens' porch on the S., 
and a gallery for pronouncing excommunications above the window 
of the S. transept. 

The most noteworthy objects in the interior are the tastefnl triforinm, 
surmounted by a frieze and a balustrade; the organ-case, of 1668 ; a stained- 
glass window of 1560 (Works of Charity) in the right aisle, near the 
baptistery, and a f^ne rose- window in the right transept ; sixty-nine choir- 
stalls of 1512; a palm in gilded wood, in the form of a cress, whence the 
ciborium was formerly hung over the highaltar; five tombs of bishops, 
in the ambulatory, a Benaissance wall-niche, in the apsidal chapel; a 
curious painting of a figure with three faces, symbolizing the Trinity, In 
the vaulting of the 3rd chapel on the right; and, in the 1st chapel on the 
left, the bones of St. Pol and the tombstone of Amice Picard (d. 1(52), 
who is here venerated as a saint. 

In the Place du Petit-Gloitre, behind the cathedral, is a former 
prebendary's house (16th cent.). The Rue de la Bive leads thence 
to Pempoul (p. 243). 

The former episcopal palace (18th cent.), to the left of the 
church, is now the H6Ul de Ville; the garden has been converted 
into a promenade. 

The Rue Verderel, to the left of the Chapelle du Creizker, leads 
to the Cemetery J which contains an old church (16th cent.); the 
handsome stations of the cross, arranged in a seinicirde.ioaDd the 

Digitized by LjOOQ IC 

ROSCOFF. 35. RouU, 243 

cross, are of granite. By the outer wails are some old charnel-houses 
in a very neglected state. 

This street goes oa towards Fimpoul^ a small harbour on a marshy 
bay, beyond which lies Caraniec (p. 227). There is a small and unattractive 
beach called the Plage Ste. Ann€. 

On the right we approach the sea, at the mouth of the river 
Morlaix. On the other side is the Pointe de Prlmel (p. 244). 

17t/2 M. Boscoff. — Hotels. Hot. des Bains de Mek, near the church, 
pens, from 6, omn. i/s fr. ; Talabardon, adjacent, d^j. 2, D. 21/2, pens, 
from 5 fr. ^ db la Maison-Blanchb, near the harbour; db la Mabine, near 
the beach, B. 2-3, dej. or D. 2V2, pens. 61/2-71/2, omn. V2fr.5 i>d Palmikr, 
opposite Jhe post-office, B. IV2-2, d^j. 2, D. 2V2, pens. 5-6 fr. 

Roscdff (Hhe blacksmith's mound'), a small s^port with 5054 
inhab., carries on a trade in the excellent vegetables of the neigh- 
bourhood, the fertility of which is said to be due to the Gulf Stream. 

We turn to the right beyond the station to reach the town. In 
the street to the left of the harbour are a house with a small 
oratory and some remains of cloisters, and the Chapelle St. Ninien^ 
which commemorates the landing of Mary, Queen of Scots, in 1648, 
at the age of five, when on her way to be betrothed to the Dauphin 
Francis. Prince Charles Edward Stuart also landed hei e after es- 
caping! from Scotland in 1746. Farther on in the town, on the left, 
is the Church of Noire- Dame- dt^ Or oax-Baz^ noted for its unusual 
tower (1550), which has a spire somewhat resembling a minaret. 
Short of the church are two small chapels of the same period. 

Inside the churcb, in the left aisle, is an alabaster altar-piece of the 
15th cent.; on the right is an old font, in a rotunda of the 17th cent.; 
under the wooden vaulting are friezes adorned with sculpture; the beau- 
tiful i high- altar dates from the 17th century. 

The Mairie, in the street to the right of the church, is an inter- 
esting old house ; other old houses may be seen in other streets. 

In the Place in front of the church, farther on to the left, is a 
Marine Laboratory, to which visitors are admitted (entr. by the 
small door). The street on the hither side of the laboratory leads to 
the Sea Baths^ on small beaches which present long stretches of 
sand at low tide. The He de Batz is visible thence. 

The street beginning in front of the church leads back to the 
station. From the point where it turns to the left for the station we 
may follow the Route de St. Pol straight on in order to visit a huge 
Fig TreCy which is shown in a former convent-garden a little farther 
on (adm. 50 c). 

About 21/2 M. off the coast lies the small He de Batz (Hot. Robinson ; 
boat 26 c.)i inhabited by sailors. There is a small harbour on the S. side. 
The island contains little of interest. 

II. Erom Morlaix to St. Jean-dn-Doigt and to Plougasnou. 
11 M. DiLiQBMCB every morning (1 fr.) to FloitgaenovrPtimel; from Plou- 
gasnou io, St. Jean-du-Doigt V/aU. on foot or by carriage (short-cut VsM.). 

MorlaiXj see p. 226. Our mad is a continuation of the quay on 
the right bank heyond the viaduct; it ascends to the N., then descends 

16* ^ 

244 BouU35, PLOUGASNOU. 

into a valley, beyond which it re-ascends to a plateau. In the distance 
to the left appears St. Pol-de-L^on (p. 242). Finally we pass the 
direct road (right) to St. Jean-du-Doigt. 

St. Jean-dii-Doigt (H6t. St. Jeanet des Bains-de-Mer, R. IVs-^i 
d^j. 2, D. 2V2, pens. 5-7 fr.), 10 M. to the N.E. of Morlaix, derives 
its name from the lelic of St. John the Baptist preserved in its church. 
The local 'pardon' takes place on St. John's Eve (23rd June). The 
Church, a remarkable edifice of 1440-1513, has a valuable treasury 
containing fine chalices and an interesting crucifix in addition to the 
finger of St. John, which is preserved in a gold and silver enamelled 
casket of the 15th cent. (50 c. each visitor). Near the cjiurch, at 
the entrance to Ike cemetery, is a Miraculous Fountain, with a taste- 
ful Renaissance monument. The cemetery contains a Mortuary 
Chapel of 1577. — The 8ta Baths are situated on a fine beach 2/3 M. 
to the N., half way to Plougasnou. 

About 8 M. to tbe E. of St. Jean lies Loequirec (p. 228), wbich also 
is reached by diligence from Morlaix, starting every morning. 

Plongasnou (H6t. des Bains; de Bretagne), also 10 M. from 
Morlaix, has 3843 inhab. and an interesting Renaissanoe church. 
The diligence goes on to the little Sea-Baths of Frimel (Qr.-Hdt, 
Frimel; Hot. des Bains; de la Plage), at the little harbour of Tre- 
gastel (not the Tr^gastel near Lannion, p. 241), IVi M. to the N. 
The adjacent Pointe de Primel is a rocky promontory to the right of 
the broad estuary of the river Morlaix, facing the promontory of 
Roscoff (p. 243). 

in. From Morlaix to Carhaiz. Hnelgoat. 

3OV2 M. Railway in l»A-2i/2 hrs. (fares 6 fr. 50, 3 fr. 70, 2 fr. 40 c). 
Morlaix, see p. 226. After crossing the Viaduct our line diverges 
to the right from the line to St. Brieuc and Paris. — The station of 
6 M.) Plougonven-Plourin lies respectively 3 M. to the W. and 
M. to the S.E. of the villages after which it is named. We then 
cross the Monts d'Arrie, the principal chain in Brittany (1280 ft), 
partly barren and partly thickly wooded. We ascend rapidly. — 
10 V2 M. Le CloUre-Lann6anou. View to the right. — Beyond (16 M.) 
Scrignac' Berrien we descend into the valley of the Aulne. View to 
the left. 

21 M. Hnelgoat-Locmaria; the station is at Locmaria, 4 M. from 
Huelgoat (omn. 1 fr., there and back 11/2^1.). 

The road to Huelgoat ascends the valley of an affluent of the Aulne. 
About >/« H. short of Huelgoat, on the left (guide-board), a fairly steep 
and muddy path leads down to a spot called Le Oouffi'e, Here amidst 
magnificent scenery the stream forms a cascade and then disappears under 
the rocks for a distance of 220 yards. A little farther on, before reaching 
the bridge, and a few min. to the right of tbe road (guide-board), is the 
curious little OroUe d^Artut, to which the rocks give the appearance of a 
huge dolmen. The Camp d'Artus lies beyond (see p. 246). -^ HufllMat 
iBdt. de France, to the right beyond the church, R. from IV21 d^j. or>/t, 
pens. 7fr. ; de Bretagte, at the entrance to the villoge; du Lac, near the 
lake), prettily situated in a wooded valley studded with rocks, near a large 

CHATEAULIN. 36, BouU. 245 

pond, offers pleasant aummer quarters. The 16th cent. Church has a modem 
belfry. The objects of note in the interior include the ancient font-cover; 
a wooden dais; the wooden Irieze below the vaulting; and a group re- 
presenting a priest between a nobleman and a beggar. The Pond is lower 
down on the left; at the bridge over the stream flowing into it is a pictur- 
esque mill and a chaos of rocks called the *M^nage de la Vierge' (house- 
hold of the Virgin), the Pillow, the Armchairs, etc. An ascent to the 
right beyond the bridge brings us in 5 min. to an enormous rocking-stone, 
known as the *rocher tremblant\ The road to the right beyond the bridge, 
which may be joined by following the path to the left beyond the rocking 
stone, leads above the partly wooded valley named the Camp d\Jrtus. At 
the end (ca. s/4 M.) is a pleasanter road by which we may return through 
the woods, coming out near the Grotte d'Artus (p. 244). 

About 41/2 M. to the S.W. of Huelgoat, in the opposite direction from 
the church, is St. Herbot (Auberge de Bellevue), with a pretty Chctpel of 
the 16th cent, containing a magnificent rood-screen of the period. An inter- 
esting ^pardon* is held here in May, combined with a cattle-fair. Interesting 
points in the environs are the Chdteau du Rusquec (V4 M.), and the Ccucadu 
of St. Herhot (insignificant in summer), formed by the Ellez, an affluent 
of the Aulne. 

24 M. PouUaouen, 3 M. to the W. of the station, with an abandon- 
ed mine of argentiferous lead. — 27 Y2 M. PlounSvezel. — 3OI/2 M« 
Carhai^ (p. 235). 

36. From Brest to Nantes. 

222 M. BliLWAT in 71/4-10 hrs. (fares 33 fr. 6, 22 fr. 36, 14 fr. 55 c). 
This is the quickest, though not the shortest route from Quimper and 
Vannes to Paris. Other routes, diverging at Redon (p. 253), lead via 
Kennes or via Ch&teaubriant. 

I. From Brest to Qnimper. 

641/2 H. Bailwat in 21/3-31/4 hrs. (fares 11 fr. 86, 7 fr. 95, 5 fr. 15 c). 
Best views to the right on this picturesque route. 

Brest^ see p. 229. Thence to (12 M.) Landerneau^ see p. 228. 
We diverge to the right from the railway from Rennes, cross the 
Elom^ and ascend to (I872 M.) Dirinon, We cross a viaduct 1/4 M. 
long and 120 ft. high. 23 V2 M. Daoulas (Hot. de Bretagne). This 
name is said to be derived from the Breton words ''mouattr daou 
laz ('monastery of the two murders'), and the legend relates that 
the monastery here was originally founded in expiation by a knight 
who had slain two monks at the altar in the 6th century. The chief 
remains of the monastery are parts of the church and cloisters, dating 
from the 12th century. An omnibus (1 fr.) plies hence to (7 M.) 
Plougastel (p. 228). — 30 M. Hanvec, To the right we see the 
roads of Brest. Beyond a tunnel (V4 M. long) we reach (371/2 M.) 
Quimerc\ about 33/4 M. to the N.W. of which is the pilgrim-resort 
of Rumengolf visited on March 25th, Trinity Sunday, Aug. 15th, 
and Sept. 8th. — Beyond ariaduct (130 ft. high) the district becomes 
less hilly. We cross the navigable Aulne by another lofty viaduct 
(160 ft high). 

45 V2 ^* Cli&teaiilin {H6tel de la Orande-Maison^ plain), a town 
with 4237 inhab., picturesquely situated on the Aulne. In the neigh- 
bourhood are important slate-quarries. The only relic^f the castle, 

Digitized by VnOOk 

246 RouU36. QUTMPER. From Brest 

which stood on a rock on the left bank of the Aulne, is the Chapel 
of Notre-Dame, dating fyom the 15-16th centuries. 

A steamboat (2 fr.) plies twice weekly from Port-Launay^ the harbour of 
Chateaulin, !>/« M. down the river (omnibus), to Brett (p. 229) in 5 hrs., 
touching at yarious intermediate places. — A diligence runs daily from 
Ghateaulin to (21 M.) Croton (p. 232) in 4 hrs. (fare 3 fr.), passing (7 M.) 
SU. Marie-durMini-Hom, whence the Mini-Horn' (1030 ft.), the chief summit 
of the Montagnet Noxre$ (p. 237), may be ascended in >/« hr. (fine view). 
From Ch&teaulin to Carhaix and LoudiaCy see B. 33b. 

The railway now quits the Talley of the Aulne and descends that 
of the Steir, which it repeatedly crosses. — 531/2 M. QuemSniven. — 
To the left diverge the branch-lines to Bouarnenez and to Pont 
I'Abb^. Beyond a tunnel we cross the Odet and reach — 

641/2 M. Quimper (*miel de VEpSe, R. 3-6, de'j. 3, D. SVa, pens, 
from 10 fr., du Pare, R. from 2, d^j. 21/2, D. 3, pens, from 81/2 fr., 
both in the Rue du Pare; de Frdrice, Boulevard de TOdet, R. from 
21/21 pens, from 81/2 ^r. ; Buffet, at the station). This *pleasant river- 
side city of fables and gables', the capital of the department of 
Finisthre and the seat of a bishop, occupies a fine situation at the 
confluence of the Steir and the Odet (Kemper signifying ^con'fluence' 
in the Breton tongue). Pop. 19,616. 

The •Cathbdral op St. Corbntin, near the quay on the right 
bank, is one of the finest Gothic edifices in Brittany? Though its 
construction extended over two centuries (13-15th), it is marked by 
great unity of plan. The Portals are richly sculptured but have 
suffered from the hand of time. The spires on the towers are modem. 

The Choir, the axis of which is not parallel with that of the nave, is 
the finest part of the interior. Other features of interest are the stained 
glass (both ancient and modern), the mural paintings (chiefly by FanDarffemtj 
a modern Breton artist), the altar-pieces and statues of the 14th and 15tb 
cent., and the tombs of the bishops. The High Altar is a gorseous modem 
work in gilded bronze, adorned with statuettes and high-reliefs. 

The Place St. Corentin is embellished with a Statue of Laennec 
(1781-1826), inventor of the stethoscope, who was born at Quimper. 
The Hdtel de Ville, containing the public Ubrary,is also in this square. 

The Mus^, in the building to the left, is open dally (except 
Mon.), 12 to 4. 

On the groundfloor are two rooms containing an Interesting ArchaeO' 
logical Collection, and a group of about 60 figures illustratiiig Breton eostomet. 
The first floor contains a Picture QalUry^ with several good examples of old 
masters, especially of the Flemish and Dutch schools. The most important 
is by Aloneo Cano (the Virgin presenting to 8t. lldefonso a chasuble em- 
broidered by herself), in the second room to the left of the entrance. There 
are also a valuable collection of engravings and some sculptures. 

The modernized LycSe^ farther on in the same direction, pre- 
serves part of the old Town- Walls, — The street in front of the 
cathedral crosses the Steir, a tributary of the Odet, and passes near 
the Church of 8t, Mathieu, which dates from the loth cent, and was 
recently rebuilt, with a handsome modem tower. — On the other 
side of the Odet, at the foot of Afont Fntgy^ lie the Prifeeture and 
the AlUes de Locmaria. The Romanesque Chuxch of Locmaria 

ed by Google 

to Nantes, PENMARC'H. 36, Route. 247 

(11th cent.), at the end of the Alle'es, is interesting. There is a 
smaU harbour on the Odet, 10-11 M. from the sea. 

About 11 M. from Quimper, at the mouth of the Odet, lies Bdnodat 
( Orand-Hdtel), a village frequented for sea-bathing. In summer a steam- 
launsh (1 fr. ^ c.) plies thither from Quimper daily, as well as an omnibus 
(1 fr.), starting from the Place St. Gorentin at 2 p.m.-, sailing-boat 8-12 fr. 
From B^nodet we may cross the rirer by ferry (6 c.) and proceed via 
Combrit (see below) to (5 M.) Pont-rAbb^ (see below). 

Fbom Qdimpbsto PoNT-L'ABBft AND St. Gu&MOLft ( PeiMutrc'h). To Pont- 
TAbb^, 13V«M., railway in V2-I hr. (fares 2 fr. 46, 1 fr. 65, 1 fr. 10 c); thence 
narrow-gauge railway to (bVs H.) Penmarc'h and (11 M.) 8t. Gu^nol^, in 
60 min. (1 fr. 40, 96 c). Carriage for the excursion from Pont r Abbe 
8-iO fr., or 12-16 fr. including Loctudy. — 6 M. Pluguffan. 10 M. Combrit- 
Trimioe. The church of Combrit, IVs M. from the station, contains some 
interesting wood-carvings. About 3 M. to the N.W., on the right bank of 
the Odet, are the inteiresting remains of the Roman Villa of Le Pirennou. — 
I3V2M. Pont-1'Abb* (Lion d* Or, E. IV2-2, D. 3 fr.j det Voyagews), a town 
with 6132 inhab., on the river of the same name, contains a Church (14-16th 
cent.) which belonged to a convent, and a CcuOe (now the Hotel de Ville). 
still retaining a tower of the 13th century. Pont-FAbb^ is the capital of 
the Bigoudent, a race differing in many respects from the other inhabitants 
of Brittany and supposed to be the descendants of a pre-Celtic population 
(p. 193). Their peculiar costumes, often elaborately embroidered, may be 
seen on Sundays and holidays. — Omnibus (60 c.) daily in summer to 
(4 VL.) Loctudy (Hdt. dea Bains, pens, from dVifr*) "^^^ fair), an unpretending 
bathing-place (Flage de Langoz), with an interesting Bomanesque church 
(11th cent. ^ restored). Ferry to He Tvdy opposite (10 c). 

The Road from Pont-rAbb^ to Penmarc'h traverses a wild district, 
with many megalithic monuments. At (1^4 M.) the Chdteau de Kernuz 
(16th cent.) visitors are admitted to inspect an admirable collection of 
prehistoric and Gallo- Roman antiquities. Farther on we see to the right 
the village of St. Jean-Trolimon (4 M. from Pont-l'Abb^) with the Chapelk 
de Tronoin (I6th cent.). — 4 M. Plomewr, with the Chapelk Bte. Tumette. — 
The Nasbow-Gauge Railway (see above) makes a detour to the S. via 
(4 M.) Plobannalecy (6 M.) Tre/fiagat, and (6 M.) Guilvinee (H6t. de TOc^an, 
R. from 11,2, pens, from 6V3 fr.), a small port and bathing-resort. 

91/2 M. Fenmaro'h (pron. ^penmar^ ; H6t. de St. ChtinoU), a village with 
6702 inhab., is the modem representative of a once flourishing town, 
scattered ruins of which extend as far as (IV4 M.) the Pointe de Penmarc'h. 
The discovery of Newfoundland, the inroaids of the sea, war, and the 
disappearance of the cod-fish ruined this town in the 16th century. The 
principal church is that of St. Nonnoy dating from the 16th century. — 
On the Pointe de Penmarc^h is the Phare d'Eckmilhl, a lighthouse 200 ft. in 
height, erected in 1893-97, with an electric light visible to a distance of 60 M. 
(adm. 11-12 and 2-5). Close by is the little Hdtel du Phare-d'EckmUhl (dej. 
2'/2, pens. 6 fr.). — 10 M. Kirity, with a ruined church of the 14- 15th cent, 
and an old manor-house of the 16-16th. 

11 H. St. autaold (Orand-HdUl, d^j. 3 fr. ; Hdl. de Bretagneh a small 
seaport and bathing place, with a picturesque church-tower of the 16th cent., 
is situated on a rocky and dangerous coast (comp. p. 248). 

Fbom Qdimpeb to Dodabnbnkz and Audibbnb (Pointe du Raz), 27V2 M., 
railway in 1V4-2 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 26, 2 fr. 55, 2 fr. 26 c). — 16 M. Douamenea 
(Hdtel de France, &6j. 2Vs, pens, from 9 fr.; du Commerce, pens, from 7 fr.; 
de V Europe), a town with 13,568 inhab., situated on a fine bay of the same 
name, is an important centre of the sardine-fishery. Steamer in summer 
to (I2V2 M.) Morgat (p. 232). Steamer to Brest, see p. 232. — The *pardon' 
(last Sun. in Aug.) of Ste, Aume-la-Palud, 7 M. to the K. of Douarnenez, 
attracts about 30,000 visitors annually. About 1/2 H. to the S. of Douarnenez 
Ifes Triboul (5130 inhab.), with the Plage dee Sabks-Blance (Hotel, B. 2-4, 
pens. 6-7 fr.), a picturesquely situated bathing resort. — The Mini-Horn 
(p. 246) is easily ascended from Plomodiern (Breton, Plodihern), 11 M. from 

248 RouUSe, QUIMPEBL^. From Brett 

Douarnenez; 7H. farther to the N.E. is Locronan^ the 16th cent, church 
of which contains the tomb of St. Renan (16th cent.). 

At Douarnenez carriages are changed for the local line to Audieme. — 
24 M. Pont'Croix (2714 inhah.v Hdt des Voyageurs), with a curloos old 
collegiate church, Notre- Dame'd€'Ro»eudon (13th and 16th cent.). — 27V2 M. 
Audieme {H6t. de France, pens. 8>/4-9V2 fr.; du Cammtrce^ pens. 7-8 fr., 
good), Breton Ooatim, was once like Peninarc''h (p. 247) an important town« 
but now contains only 4706 inhabitants. — The ^Fointe du Bas (carr. 8- 
12 fr.; seat in hotel-brake, 3 fr.), the westernmost point of Finist^re, 9V2 H. 
from Audieme, commands an almost constantly wild and tempestuous sea- 
view. The only buildines here are a Bignal Station and two BoUlt {Hdta 
du Raz-de-Sein, ddj. or v. 3, pens. 9*/4-10 fr., good; de la Potnte-du-Rat^ 
d^j. 2V2, pens. 7-8 fr.). It is hazardous to proceed to the K., towards the 
Enf0r de Plogoff and the Baie des Tripaetis, without minute instructions 
and precautions (guide advisable; 1 fr.). — About 6 M. to the W. of the 
point is the islet of Sein^ the Sena of the ancients, once the seat of a 
Druid sanctuary and oracle. 

At Le Loch, 4V8M. from Audieme, a road diverges from the Pointe 
du Baz road, for (1^4 M.) Cliden and (IV4 M. farther) the Pointe de Britellee, 
Thence we may follow the coastguards* path to the Pointe du Van, near 
which is the £tanff de Laoual, one of the sites assigned to the legendary 
city of /«, which is supposed to have been engulfed in the 6th century. 

n. Erom Qoimper to Lorient and Auray. 
To Lorient, 40V« M., Bail wax in 1-1V« hr. (fares 7 fr. 40 c, 6 fr.. 3 fr. 
25 c). — From Lorient to Auray, 2IV2 M. in Va-'A hr. (4 fr. 6, 2 fr. 70, 
1 fr. 76 c). 

On leaving Quimper we ascend the valley of the Jet, — 72 M. 
St. Yvi. — 77 M. Rosporden (H6tel Continental, d6j. or D. 2 fr., good) 
has a fine church (14-16th cent.). Branch to Garhaix, see p. 237. 

A branch-railway runs from Bosporden to (9V2 M.) Goncameau (Bdtei 
dee Voyageurt, D. 3, pens, from 71/2 fr.; Atlantic Hotel, pens, from 6 fr.; 
Orand'H6tel; H6t. des Sables- B lanes, pens, firom 7 fr. ; ds France; de la Plage; 
des Bains), a town with 8007 inhab., engaged in the sardine-fishery, and 
a good harbour, picturesquely situated on the E. side of the Bay of La 
Forest or Fouesnani, The ancient quarter of the town, the VillS' Close, 
lies upon an islet surrounded by ramparts (no adm.), dating in part 
from the 14th century. At the month of the harbour is an Aquarivm^ 
communicating directly with the sea, where large quantities of lobsters 
are reared. — Concarneau is supposed to be tiie ^Plouvenec* of Ifiss How- 
ard's charming and pathetic story of *Guenn\ 'Kevin\ where Guenn 
danced at the Pardon, is probably Pont-Aven, and Les Gltfnans may be 
identified with the ^Lannions'. — At Beusec-Conq (5112 inhab.), IV4 M. to 
the N.E. of Concarneau, is the handsome modern CMteau de Keryolet or 
Kiolet, bequeathed with its rich furniture to the department by the Bnssian 
Princess Chauveau-Karischkine (d. 1893). It contains the Musie Camille 
Bemier, containing Breton landscapes, etc., by the painter of that name 
(1823-1902), besides tapestries, fayenee, costumes, etc. (open daily 9-6, 
except Mon. morning; adm. 60 c). — Steamer 4 times daily (in settled 
weather only) from Concarneau to Oft hr.) Beg-MHl (Hdtel des Dunes, pens, 
f^m 7>/s fr. ; de Beg-Meil, pens. 7-12 fr.), a bathing-place on the opposite 
side of the bay. -^ Mail-gig daily at 4 p.m. from Concarneau to Pont- 
Aven (p. 249). 

791/2 M. Kerrest; 83 M. BannaUc; 89 M. MeUac-U-Trivoux. 

92 V2 M. QnimperU (Lion d'Or, R. 3-4, pens. 8 fr. ; du Commerce^ 
pens. 7V2 fr. ; de V Europe, pens. 6-7 fr.), a town with 9176 inhab., 
is charmingly situated at the confluence of the two rivers which form 
the La!ta. The more conspicuous church is that of St. Michel^ dating 

Digitized by LnOOQlC 

toNanU8. LORIENT. 36. Route, 249 

from the 14-15th centuries. The other, 8te, Croix, erected on the 
model of the church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, and rebuilt 
since 1862, contains an old rood-screen (16th cent.) and a crypt of 
the 11th century. — About 1^/4 M. to the N.E. of QuimperW is the 
Chapelle dt Bosgrand, with a fine Renaissance rood-loft 

A narrow-gauge line rans from Quimperl^ to (13 M., in 66 min.) Pont- 
Aven i*S6t. Julia et det Voyageun^ R. 3-6, pens. 8-10 fr.; OloaneCy pens. 6 fr., 
plain but good ; Pension Ker-Maria, from 5 fr.), a picturesque village to the 
S.W., much frequented by artiats. Pretty Breton costumes. On the right 
bank of the impetuous Avtn^ with its numerous mills, is the Chdteau du 
Hinan (15-16th cent.), 2V« M. from Pont-Aven. About I'/i M. farther on is 
Port'Manech, with the Piaffe 8t. NicoUu^ reached by omnibus or steamer.