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Official Copy. 



NORTH SEA PILOT. 



PART I. 



SHETLAND AND ORKNEYS. 



BEINtf THE RESULT OF VARIOUS §URVEY8 MADE BY ORDER, 
0» THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. 



SECOND EDITION. 






* 



PT7BLISHBD BT OBDEB OF THB LOBD8 COMMIS8IONBBB OF THB JLDXXBALTT. 



LONDON: 

PRINTED POR THB HYDBOGRAPHIO OPTIOB, ADMIRALTY : 

AND SOLD BT 

J. D. POTTE^, -Agent for the sale of Admiraltt Charts, 

rfl, POULTRY, Am) 11, KING STREET, TOWER HILL. 

1876. 



Pnce Three Shillings. 



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ADVERTISEMENT. 



The North Sea Pilot, Part I., contains Sailing Directions for 
Shetland and the Orkneys. The directions for Shetland were 
prepared by Mr. E. K. Calver, Master, R.N., from materials sup- 
plied by the late Commander G. Thomas, (who with Lieutenant 
W. Lord, R.N., was engaged on the survey of the whole group 
between the years 1825 and 1834, from which the Admiralty Chart 
is published), also from information collected by Mr. Calver during 
his visit to Shetland in the year 1856. 

The Orkney Directions are by Lieutenant F. W. L. Thomas, 
R.N., (who, with Commanders G. Thomas and A. B. Beecher, and 
Mr. J. S. Wells, Master, R.N., was employed on a survey of the 
islands between the years 1835 and 1848,) with additions by 
Mr. Calver in 1855. 

The wliole was revised by Mr. George Marsh, Master, R.N., of 
the Hydrographic OflSce, Admiralty, in 1866. 

In the present edition the most recent information has been 
introduced by Staff Commander W. H. Sharp, R.N. 

Part II. of the North Sea Pilot contains directions for the North 
and East Coasts of Scotland. Part III. contains the East Coast 
of England, and Part IV. the Coasts of Holland and Belgium, with 
general directions for the navigation of the North Sea. 



F. J. E. 



Hydrographic Office, Admiralty, London. 
February 1876. 



37388. a 2 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

SHETLAND.-SUMBURGH HEAD TO LUNNA HOLM. 

Page 

Situation and physical features of the islands .... 1^ 

Currents 5 winds 5 weather - - - - - - 2, 3 

Passing the group with a fair wind. Fogs. Pilots. Fair isle^ with 
directions ; tides. Fair island roost. Sumburgh head and light - 4-6 

Sumburgh roost. No Ness ; Levenwick ; shelter obtainable in case of - 
being embayed between Sumburgh head and Mousa island. Mousa 
island; refuge - - - ' - - -7,8 

Coast from Mousa to Lerwick. Bressay island. Noss island - - 9 

Bressay Sound; southern approach; light; Lerwick; directions &om 4( 

the southward; North entry; from seaward; tides. Brethren rocks - 10-12 

Green holm. Soldian rock. Nive Baas. Unicorn reef ^' - 13 

Glitness islands. Deals voe, with directions. Laxfirth voe - - 14 

Wadbister voe, with directions. Catfirth voe ; directions. How stack. 
Snacka reef - - - - - - - 15, 16 

The Mull of Eswick. Stepping Stones. Tides. Nesting bay; Hog 
islands, &c. - - - - - - - - 17, 18 

Dourye voe; anchorages and dangers within; directions. Whalsey 
island. Symbister bay - - - - - -19, 20 

Whalsey holms ; directions. Islets upon north-west side of Whalsey - 20-22 

Whalsey Sound ; West Sound, &c. ; directions - - - 23 

Caution in using West Sound. Out Skerries; light; directions; 
caution in navigating near by night - - - - - 24, 25 

Vidlon voe ; directions. Lunna Ness ; outlying skerries and islets - 26, 27 



VI CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER II. 

SHETLAND. — LUNNA NESS TO THE SCAW, INCLUDING 

YELL SOUND. 

Page 
Yell Sound, channel frequently used ; islets, skerries, and rocks in south- 
eastern entrance - - - - - - -28, 29 

Islets and dangers in the body of Yell Sound - - - - 30, 31 

North entrance and shores of Yell Sound ; directions ; caution not to 
mistake a point for the Horse of Burra voe ; tides. Hamna voe on 
south side of entrance. West voe of Lurina ; available only for small 
vessels. Swining voe. Colifrith voe ; only frequented by boats - 32-^ 

Deals voe; excelfent holding ground; subject to calms and baffling 
winds in moderate weather. Firths voe ; good anchorage for a tide 
in summer. Moss bank; post office; ferry across Yell Sound. Tofts 
voe ; convenient and excellent anchorage .... 35 

Urka voe. Sulem voe ; nearly connected with western shore of mainland ; 
directions. Garth voe - - - - - 36 

Glus and Quyfirth voes ; little used. Colifirth voe. North Rooe, with 
directions. Hamna voe; only available to small vessels; a pilot 
necessary. Eastern coast of Shetland resumed - - - 37, 38 

Muckle and Little skerries. Fetlar island; East neap an imposing 
object ; Tresta bay ----- 39 

Gruting bay. Hascosea island. Colgrave and Hascosea Sounds ; equally 
available to vessels bound to the north-east within Fetlar . . 40 

Reafirth voe; secure berthage; subject to eddy winds; directions; 
caution in working. Basta voe ; free from outlying danger ; supplies 41, 42 

Blue Mull Sound ; islets, &c. in the entrance ; CuUa voe ; directions for 
the sound. Uya island .--... 42-44 

Uya Sound; much frequented; directions; tides. Eastern coast of 
Unst ; Mu Ness ; Colvidale Baa. Vere reef. Huna island - - 45, 46 

Balta island. Balta Sound; directions. Haroldswick; local attraction 47,48 
Norwickbay. Lamba ness. The Scaw; roost - - - - 49 

CHAPTER III. 

SHETLAND. — SCAW TO WATTS NESS. 

Burrafiord ; holms and lighthouse. Western shores of Unst ; aspect ; 
refuge - - - - - - - 50,51 

North coast of Yell ; Gloup voe and holm. Fethaland point. Ramna 
stacks and Green holm - ----- 52 



CONTENTS. VU 

Page 
Caution in entering Yell Sound. Uya island and Baas. Ronas hill. 
Rona voe, with directions; not generally used by shipping. Ossa 
Skerry. Hamna voe ; pilot necessary. CJoast from Ockren Head to 
Esha Ness ----- - -- 53-56 

St. Magnus bay; nature of coast; shelter; tides. Braewick and 
Sandwick bays. Door holm. Drongs - - - - 66 

Hillswick firth, with directions. Magnussetter voes ; valueless for shelter 
in westerly gales. Rooe Sound; useful in case of emergency. 
Muckle rooe - - - - - - - - 57, 58 

Swarbucjc min ; voes and anchorages within land-locked ; directions - 59, 60 

Vementry Sound ; voes within ; directions. West Burrafirth and Snarra 
voes ; directions. Papa Stour island. Ve Skerries ; caution in ap- 
proaching. Papa Sound; dangers within ; directions - - 61-66 

Watts Ness. Foula island; Friar and Havre de Grind rocks; great 
caution required -I-----67 



CHAPTER IV. 

SHETLAND. — WATTS NESS TO SUMBTJRGH HEAD. 

Yaila island. Vaila Sound ; entrances. West and East Sounds. Gruting 
voe ; directions. The Deeps. Skelda voe ; outlying rocks, and rocks 
at entrance; directions ----.- 68-71 

Garder-house voe, with directions; Sand Voe; unfrequented. Sand- 
sound and Bixetter voes, with directions - - - - 72, 73 

Westdale voe; islets at entrance; excellent shelter; directions. North 
Halvera island. Strom Ness voe; used only by native sloops and 
boats - - - - - - - - -74,76 

Whiteness voe ; occasions when used ----- 76 

Scalloway ; islands and rocks forming channels of approach - - 76, 77 

Scalloway harbour ; supplies ; dire.ctions ; caution not to mistake the 
south-west extremity of West Burra ; anchorage in Middle channel ; 
tides. Trondra. East and West Burra islands. Great and Little 
Halvera islands ----... 78-80 

Cliff Sound affords perfect protection ; safe entry uncertain ; directions ; 
anchorage. St. Ninian island ; limited space in shore of. Cliff Sound 
to Fitful Head - - - - - - - - 81, 82 

Fitful Head; aspect. Quendale bay; safe anchorage only in height 
of summer ; directions. West voe ; should not be entered by sailing 
vessels ; Tides between Sumburgh Head and Fitful Head - - 83, 84 



YUl CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER V. 

* 

ORKNEYS. — SEA HAB.GIK AND APPROACHES. 

General description. Approaching the land. Directions - - 85, 86 

Western coast ; North shoal ; prominent objects ; aspect - - 87-89 

Eastern coast ; projecting points. Directions - - - . 90-93 

Directions for closing the Orkneys ; tides ; caution to be observed - 94-97 

CHAPTER VI. 

ORKNEYS. — NORTH SOUND AND NORTH RONALDSHA FIRTH. 

Westra, north side. Papa Westra; caution in rounding north end of 
Orkneys - - - - *- - - - 98,99 

Westra, east side ; dangers off the coast - - - - 100 

Pierowall harbour and roadstead; directions; caution in taking up 
anchorage -------- 101, 102 

North Ronaldsha ; aspect ; Dennis Head beacon and lighthouse ; caution 
against set of tides ; bays and dangers ; tides. Reef-dike - - 103-105 

Sanda, north-east side ; dangers. Taftn Ness .... 106 

Riv and Baas of Trevan. Runabrake, with clearing marks. Directions 
for North Ronaldsha firth 107-109 

Tide in North Ronaldsha firth. Otterswick; difficult and dangerous 
for a stranger to take ; approach; directions - - - 110, 112 

CHAPTER VIL 

ORKNEYS. — SANDA SOUND. 

Sanda, south side; aspect of coast; bays and dangers; tide - - 113-116 

Stronsa, east side ; outlying holms ; dangers ; Papa Stronsa. Papa 
Sound, shallow and difficult of access. Odin bay ... 116-118 

Directions for Sanda Sound - - - - - -119, 120 

CHAPTER VIII. 

ORKNEYS. — ^WESTRA AND STRONSA FIRTHS AND EDA SOUND. 

Westra, south-west side ; aspect ; skerries of Skea - . - 121 

Tuquoy bay; dangers within. Rapness bay; tolerable anchorage; 
directions. Rusk holm - . - - - - - 122, 123 






^■ 



^' 



CONTENTS. IX 

Pa^e 
£da, west and south-west sides ; direction of coast. Fara Sound, with 
directions ; Faraness bay, with directions. Tides. Rowsa, north-east 
side ; description of coast ...... 124, 126 

Egilsha. Howan or Rowsa sound : excellent harbour ; dangers within ; 
directions. Directions for Westra firth; caution in passing the 
skerries of Skea * - .- - - - - - 126, 127 

Tides and roosts in Westra firth. Stronsa firth ; limits ; Auskerry islet* 
and lighthouse. Stronsa, south and west sides. Auskerry Sound 
with leading mark through; caution in using it. Rousholm bay, 
a good summer anchorage; excellent fishing ground ofP it - - 128-130 

Linga Island and Sound; directions. Eda, south side; sunken reefs 
oflP. Copinsha island ; aspect ------ 131, 132 

Horse of Copinsha; dangers near. Copinsha Sound, with directions. 
Deer Ness peninsula ; direction and aspect of coast - - - 133 

Deer Sound; inner harbour; directions - - . - 134,135 

Shapinsha, east and north sides ; aspect ; outlying dangers ; anchorage 
in Veantro bay. Gait Ness and skerry . . - - 135, 136 

Directions for Stronsa firth ; tides ; roosts - - - - 137 

IQ^lii Eda Sound; connecting channel between North Sound and Stronsa 

KjC firth. Sanda, south-west side ; dangers off - - - - 138 

Calf of Eda. Eda, east side ; bold shores. Directions for Eda Sound - 139 

^'/''' Caution requisite in Lashy Sound. Calf Sound ; fine weather anchorage ; 

directions ; caution in the entrances ----- 140, 141 



FIBTE 



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118 



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CHAPTER IX, 

ORKNEYS. — ^EYNHALLOW SOUND, WIDEPIRTH, SHAPINSHA 

SOUND. 



Rowsa, north-west and soutii-west sides; aspect; Wjre island and 
[^ skerries. Wyre Sound, with directions and tides. Eynhallow island 142, 143 

Description of coast from Costa Head to Aiker Ness ... 144 

Gairsa» north and west sides. Gairsa Sound. Directions for Eynhallow 
Sound; tide. Widefirth; limits ..... 145,146 

Gairsa, south-west and south sides ; dangers off, with directions - 147 

Shapinsha^ north-west side; aspect; conspicuous marks. Mainland, 
north-east side; skerries, shoals, and anchorages, with directions - 148-150 

37888. b 



X CONTENTS. 

Page 
Bay of Firth; holms and skerries in; anchorages. Dangers off shore 
between Bay of Firth and Kirkwall bay .... 150, 151 

Kirkwall bay and harbour ; Kirkwall; general description - -152,153 

Directions for Widefirth ; caution to keep leading mark exactly on ; 
tides 153-155 

Shapinsha Sound ; extent. Shapinsha, south-west side ; Ellwick ; secure 
anchorage. Rerwick Head ...... 156 

iDganess bay; excellent harbour for large vessels. Tide. Directions 
for Shapinsha Sound ; caution in the narrow part of the String - 157, 158 



CHAPTER X. 



ORKNEYS. — HOY, HOLM, AND WATER SOUNDS, SCAPA 

FLOW, &C. 

Hoy Sound ; mark for western entrance ; limits and direction. Main- 
land, south-west side ; Brak Ness - - - - - 159 

Stromness ; harbour and approach ; town ; caution in leaving. Cairston 
road, with directions ----..- 160, 161 

Irland bay, secure anchorage, but seldom used. Shore and skerries 
between Irland bay and Houton Head - - - - 162 

Hoy, north-east side; aspect; dangers and anchorages off. Gremsa 
island and lighthouses ...... 162, 163 

Dangers in connexion with Gremsa 164 

Directions for Hoy Sound; caution necessary; tides. Hdim Sound; 
limits -------.- 165-168 

Mainland, south-east side ; aspect; dangers - - - -168,169 

Burra, nortl\-east and north-west sides ; description of coast ; Hope of 
Hunda or Hunda Sound, an excellent harboiur for small vessels. 
Directions for Holm sound ; caution in approaching in thick weather ; 
tide 169-171 

Water Sound ; dangers and anchorage in ; directions ; tide. St. Mar- 
garets Hope. Scapa Flow; extent and capabilities - - -172^173 

Houton cove, with directions; Smoograbay; dangerjs in - - 173, 174 

Scapa bay, with directions Barrel of Butter or Carlin skerry - - 174, 175 

Risa Sound; excellent harbour. Fara island. Flota island - -175,176 

Tide in Scapa Flow. Hoxa Sound ; broad and deep channel ; dangers 

obstructing it ; directions; tides - - - - - 177> 178 



y 



tv. 



CONTENTS. XI 



CHAPTEE XI. 

ORKNEYS. — SOUTHERN COAST. 

Page 

rum Ness to Cantick Head ; description of coast ; light - - 179,180 

Long Hope; anchorage; despatch of letters ; directions ' - - 180,181 

Widewal] harbour ; directions - - - - - -182 

Herston Head to Brough Ness ; aspect of coast ; Burwick bay. Lother 
rock, with set of tidal stream near, and clearing marks. Liddel eddy ; 
useful stopping place for vessels. Old Head - - - - 183, 184 

Swona island; general description; wrecks; Swona flood and ebb 
eddies --------- 186, 186 



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PUBLISHED C 



NORTH SEA PILOT 



PART I. 



SHETLAND AND OHKNEYS. 



CHAPTER I. 

SHETLAND.— SUMBURGH HEAD TO LUNNA HOLM. 

Vasiation in 1876. 
Sumburgh head - - - 21**60'W. 



The group of islands and rocks, supposed to be the ultima Thule of the 
ancient Bomans, and known to us under ihe general appellation of Shet- 
land* or Zetland, are more than one hundred in number, and are situated 
between lat. 69^ 51' and GO^ 51' 30" N., and long. 0' 42' and r 49' 30" W. 
Fair island, lying 23 miles to the south-westward, and Foula, 13 miles to 
the westward, are also considered as belonging to the group. Thirty- 
four of the islands are inhabited : the names of the principal ones are 
Mainland, Yell, Unst, Fetlar, Bressay, Whalsey ; those of secondary size are 
Muckle Rooe, Papa Stour, West Burra, East Burra, Noss, XJyea, Vaila, 
Mousa, Yementry, Little Papa, Hascosea, Hildasay, and Great Halvera ; 
while the remainder consists of holms, stacks, and skerries. 



I. — Nearly all the large islands are deeply 
indented by bays and voes, as the sheltered harbours are termed, afford- 
ing facilities for internal communication and excellent anchorage for 
vessels ; many of them are extensive, and well sheltered from every wind. 
Numerous hills diversify the face of the country and traverse it in every 
direction, the culminating point being Ronas, corrupted from Booe-ness 
(Red-ness), in the parish of North Mavine, which attains an elevation of 
1,476 feet ; they are generally bleak and mossy, with patches of cul- 
tivation interspersed. Neither tree nor shrub is to be seen on any of the 

* See Admiralty chart of the Shetland isles, by the late Commander G. Thomas, R.N. 
No. 1,118; scale, m»0'5 mches. Also Admiralty general chart of the North sea 
from the Channel to the Norway sea, No. 2,339 ; scale, dss 3*0 inches. 

87388. A 



2 SHETLAND. — STJMBURaH HEAD TO LUNNA HOLM, [chap.i. 

islands, except in a few private gardens. In all directions may be seen 
majestic cliffs and bold headlands, with rocks of immense size detached 
from the land ; some are perforated by arches, in others are deep caverns 
and recesses, while many are cleft nearly to their base, affording ample 
proof of the destractive power of the sea, which lashes the Shetland 
shores. 

No particular description is given in the following directions of the 
appearance of the land at many parts of the coast, as the similarity which 
prevails in this respect renders it, in many cases, next to impossible to 
assign any distinct individual character to certain localities that would be 
of use to the seaman in making the land. 

cmutBiTTS. — The currents among the islands are exceedingly rapid, 
but the most noted are at the northern and southern extremities of the 
group, where they give rise to a high, con&sed, and dangerous sea, termed 
a roost. Through Yell, Blue Mull, and Whalsey sounds, the maximum 
rate of the stream, on springs, is about 6 to 7 knots. Within the voes the 
stream of tide is not sensible. 

8BASOV8. — An intelligent and observant local writer, the late Dr. 
Edmondston, described the climate of the Zetland islands as very varia- 
ble and damp, although by no means generally unwholesome to their 
inhabitants. Spring can scarcely be said to commence until April, and 
there is but little general warmth before the middle of June ; the summer 
terminates, for the most part, with August, though sometimes it continues 
through September ; autumn is a very uncertain period ; and winter 
begins with the middle of October, and occupies the remaining 
months. 

Though the winter is dark and gloipmy, it is amply compensated by the 
continued light of the summer months. The nights begin to be very short 
early in May, and from the middle of that month to the end of July, dark- 
ness is absolutely unknown ; the sun scarcely quits the horizon, and his 
short absence is supplied by a bright twilight. 

The following additional information respecting Shetland weather and its 
indications is the average result of more than twelve years' observations, 
noted by the Rev. Z. M. Hamilton, the present respected minister of 
Bressay. 

November and January are the most stormy months of the year, and 
next to them are December and February ; in these latter months, 
however, the direction of the wind is more changeable, while the bad weather 
is neither so violent nor so protracted. March is often introduced by 
high winds, but not of a dangerous character. In April and May the 
weather is moderate. June and July are the finest months of the year. 
About the middle of August rain sets in, and the weather becomes 



CHAP. L] CURRENTS. — CLIMATE. 3 

somewhat broken. September is changeable, and gales are common 
towards the latter end of the month. October is often fine, accompanied 
by a low temperature. 

"wnnos. — ^Northerly and easterly winds prevail during February and 
March. Although the weather is then cold, it is more settled and uniform 
than when the wind is either from the south or from the west ; when it comes 
from these quarters, it is for the most part — indeed, always in winter — 
accompanied by heavy falls of rain. Heavy gales from West and N.W. 
occur in September, and often destroy the greater part of the crops in a 
single night. October is sometimes a mild month, but nothing can equal 
the uncertainty of the weather during the three months that follow; 
gales of wind from the most opposite points, attended by rain and 
snow, come on in rapid succession, often in the space of a few hours. 

The atmospherical phenomena by which the various changes are marked, 
though well known to the native fishermen and others, do not admit in 
every case, of being easily described. All, or nearly all the sudden gales 
are from the N.W. or North, and in winter are generally preceded by thick 
weather, unnaturally warm for the season, continuing for a longer or 
shorter period ; the thickness then clears away ; a bright calm morning 
succeeds, exhibiting a dark lead-coloured sky to the N.W. or North, and 
the gale quickly follows like a clap of thunder, lasting in its extreme 
violence, however, only from 9 to 12 hours. The other heavy gales are 
from the south-eastward, but they are not so sudden ; and to the careful 
observer their arrival is always foreshadowed. In the winter season they 
are often preceded by the Northern Lights darting their brilliant streams 
of light in the most fantastic forms across the Zenith ; and should these 
appearances continue for nights together, the weather also remaining fine, 
the gale and bad weather which succeed are sure to last a considerable 
time ; if, on the contrary, the Aurora only rises to a little above the 
horizon, fine weather is thereby unfailingly indicated. Hard winds from 
the south-westward are accompanied by showers, and should the latter 
continue, northerly winds and moderate weather will follow ; but if the 
south-westerly wind lulls and backs to the southward or south-eastward, 
a gale will succeed and continue till the falling of heavy rain again 
changes the wind to S.W. This alternate backing of the wind from S.W. 
to the southward, and vice versd, is often in the winter season, continued 
for weeks together. When northerly winds succeed south-westerly winds 
and rain as above, they will not continue more than 36 hours, if so long ; 
but when the wind veers to the northward in dry moderate weather, it will 
generally remain for a week at least in the same quarter. It only remains 
to be observed that the common prognostics of weather, such as a halo 
round the moon, a heavy swell from the ofiing without any apparent cause, 

A 2 



4 SHETLAND. — SUMBUBGH HEAD TO LUNNA HOLM. [chap. i. 

the sudden ebb and flow of the tide, and the production of a strong 
current where, in general, there is but little, are all observed in Shetland ; 
but, as these signs are familiar to every seaman, they need not be described 
here. 

In clear weather, the Shetlands may be seen at a distance of 80 or 40 
miles in every direction ; but, from the humidity of the climate, it is more 
commonly the case that they are not visible until close-to ; and as there 
are from 35 to 40 fathoms but little outside the rock edges, and the lead 
consequently fails as a guide, wrecks are not of unfrequent occurrence. 
They would, however, be more numerous, were it not that the dangers 
are all visible when there is any swell, and that an anchorage or harbour 
is to be found upon nearly every part of the coast. 

iri — ^Fogs are very prevalent in April, May, and June. 

(. — ^No pilot* can be procured for any of the harbours except 
in moderate weather, and when the vessel has arrived in smooth water ; 
such assistance will, however, be unnecessary, if proper attention be paid 
to the following directions, except for using the various passages between 
the islands and the numerous small harbours frequented by the native 
vessels, when local knowledge is indispensable. 

In passing the group with a fair wind from the eastward or westward, 
it is necessary to keep either to the northward of lat. 60° 56\ or to the 
southward of 59® 47', until the islands have been well cleared ; but the 
southern passage is to be preferred, as Sumburgh head light in Shetland, 
or Start and North Bonaldsha lights in Orkney, wiU, if seen, be useful for 
leading to a port of refoge, or for taking a fresh depal'ture. 

Before treating the general pilotage of the Shetlands, a brief descrip- 
tion will be given of Fair isle, as it is in the line of approach from the 
southward. 

WAIM Z8&B, lying nearly midway between the groups of Orkney 
and Shetland, is noted as having been the scene of the wi*eck of the flag- 
ship of the Duke of Medina Sidonia, the admiral of the Spanish Armada, 
in 1588. The island is 2f miles in length N.E. and S.W., and 1^ miles in 
breadth ; it is composed of lofty hills of sandstone. The Wart or Ward 
hill in lat. 59° 32' 45" N. and long. 1° 37' 30" W., attains an elevation of 
713 feet, and may be seen from 30 to 36 miles off in clear weather. It 
thus serves as a useftil fiedrway beacon to vessels bound to Archangel, to 
Greenland vid Shetland, and to those going north-about to America or the 
West Indies, all of whom do, or ought to pass within sight of it. As deep 
water surrounds the island, it is dangerous in foggy weather, and many 
wrecks have occurred upon it from this cause. 



* There are no licensed pilots in Shetland. 



CHAP. I.] PILOTS. — PAIE ISLE. — TIDES. 5 

High inaccessible cliffs nearly, surround the island — ^that at the Ward 
hill being 650 feet in height ; but towards the south-western extremity the 
shore is low and rocky, and here the inhabitants reside near a small bay or 
wick, which is too much encumbered by rocks to be visited by a stranger 
even in a boat, except under the guidance of a native. Small and intricate 
as it is, however, the fushing sloops belonging to Shetland contrive to 
obtain shelter in it, during the summer, from northerly and north-westerly 
gales, but they put to sea immediately upon the appearance of a change of 
wind. The south-west angle of the island is Malcolm head, which has 
high perpendicular cliffs upon three sides, but it slopes rapidly down 
towards the east ; it is further distinguished by the ruin of a signal-house 
on its summit, from whence^ during last war, intelligence was communi- 
cated to the cruizers. Malcolm head has been pointed out as a desirable 
site for a lighthouse. Upon the east side of the island is Sheep craig^ an 
isolated mass of rock of the same height as Malcolm head ; it is perpen- 
dicular on all sides, the highest part being towards the south-west. 
Besides the inlet already described at the south-west end of the island, 
there is also, on the east side, a small bay, formed by the peninsula of 
Boness, named the North haven, near the head of which, on a small beach, 
is the best landing place on the island, but it can be used only in moderate 
weather. Near the middle of the haven is a small stack or rock, 20 feet 
above water, to a mooring ring in which, small sloops may make fast in 
tolerable security during summer, but a swell quickly sets in after the sea 
has made outside.. 

All the dangers round the island are visible. Off the south end is the 
Out stack, I of a mile from the shore ; although it is always above water, 
a vessel inshore may be set by the tide too near it in calm weather. Close 
in, heavy squalls, baffling winds, and calms are common ; the island shouldi 
therefore, not be approached nearer than a mile. 

By day. Fair isle is easily distinguished by its remarkable outline, but 
it is an object of anxiety in the night and during thick weather. Should 
the island be near the course of the vessel^ and Sumburgh head light be 
visible, the vessel will be 5 miles to the eastward of the island so long as 
the light is to the northward of N.E. ^ N., and she will be the same 
distance to the westward of the isle while the light is to the eastward of 
E.N.E. In thick weather, a decreasing depth would, probably, show an 
increasing proximity to the island. 

TIBBB. — It is high water full and change, at Fair isle, at llh., but 
the stream continues to run to the southward until Oh. dOm. ; its direction 
then changes from S.E. to S.S.W., and so gradually round westerly, the 
entire circuit being completed in a little more than 12 hours. Springs 
rise 5 feet, and neaps range 3 feet. 



6 SHETLAND. — SUMBITBGH HEAD TO LUNNA HOLM. [chip.i. 



XOOBT. — ^The detached rocks near the south-west end 
of the island are named the Keels, and off them is the Boost of the Keels, a 
dangerous race, which trends north-west with the ebb, and south-east with 
the flood, for a distance of 2 miles. This phenomenon is caused by a con- 
centrated and rapid tide passing over a rugged bottom; and when the* 
stream is opposed by the wind, a confused and bursting sea is quickly 
raised, in which vessels become entirely unmanageable, and are sometimes 
lost. No vessel halving the option should attempt to pass through it, and 
those passing near the island with an easterly wind and ebb tide should 
be careful to bear up in time, and pass to leeward of the island to avoid 
being driven into the roost ; the same rule must be observed with a westerly 
wind and flood tide. 

The bearing and distance from the Ward hill of Fair Isle to Fentland 
skerries lights are— W.S.W. | S., 65 miles ; to Copinsha, S.W. by W. | W., 
49 miles ; to Start lighthouse, W. by S., 27f miles ; to Dennis head beacon. 
West, 24^ miles ; to Mull head. Papa Westra, W. | N., 40 miles ; to the 
highest point of Foula, North, 89 miles ; and to Sumburgh head light- 
house, N.E. I E., 21i miles. 

The passage between Fair isle and Shetland is termed by nmriners 
" the Hole." 




Sumburgh head, N.W. J N., 2 miles. 

I. — The southern portion of Shetland is of too 
marked a character to be easily mistaken after having once been seen. 
The whole of it is considerably elevated, the highest point being Fitful 
head, a noble promontory, having an unbroken fall of upwards of 900 feet. 
Sumburgh head, the southern headland of Shetland, is less elevated, 
and when seen from a good ofl&ng, has the appearance of several detached 
hummocks, with the lighthouse, perched on the brink of the southernmost 
one. The head is a peninsula, connected to the mainland by a low sandy 
isthmus, which separates West voe from Gret Ness voe. The highest 
part of the head is 450 feet above the sea. The east side of it consists 
of high precipitous cliffs, from whence the surface slopes steeply towards 
West voe. 

&XOKT. ^The lighthouBe, built of stone, is on the southern brink of the 

Head, forming, with its outbuildings, a prominent object from every 
direction seaward. The light shown from it is white and ^xedy is elevated 
300 feet above high water, and may be seen from a distance of 21 miles in 
clear weather. It is in lat. 59*^ 51' 15" N., and long. 1^ 16' 30" W. 



CHAP. 1.] FAIR ISLAND BOOST.— SUMBTJEGH HEAD. — NO NESS. 7 

West voe and Gret Ness voe are sometimes used by native vessels with 
oif-shore winds, but neither are safe stopping places, as southerly winds 
blow right into the former, while the latter is shallow, and is gradually 
becoming more so. 

If bound to the northward, along the east side of Shetland, and the wind 
freshen from the eastward, instead of passing to windward of Sumburgh 
head, it will be more prudent to bear up for Quendale bay (which is fully 
described at page 83). 

From Sumburgh head to Horse island the course and distance are 
W. by N., 1:^ miles ; from Horse island to Cross island, N. ^ E., 1^ miles ; 
and from Cross island to the anchorage in Quendale bay, N. by E. | E., 
nearly 1^ miles. 

BUMBumaB BBAB BOOST. — ^This dangerous race, in which the sea 
rises to a great height, and breaks with violence at times even in calm 
weather, extends either from Sumburgh head, or from Horse island a little 
to the westward of it, according to the condition of the tide and the opposing 
sea. At the beginning of the flood stream, the roost is oif the head ; it 
then gradually works to the south-eastward and southward, ceasing with 
the end of the flood stream, when '^ the Still," as it is termed by the natives, 
occurs. At the beginning of the ebb, the roost is more abreast of Horse 
island, and gradually extends from it, first to the south-west, and then to 
the westward and northward, ceasing again with the low-water slack. In 
spring tides, with au opposing sea, the roost is fully 3 miles wide, but at 
other times it is not more than ^ a mile ; it is most dangerous when the 
ebb stream is opposed by a strong north-west wind, and it is to be equally 
avoided whenever the wind is strong between W.S.W. and North, and 
from East to S.W. In north-easterly winds there is but little roost. 

As in this confrised, tumbling, and bursting sea, vessels often become 
entirely unmanageable, and many have foundered in it, while others have 
been tossed about in it for days together in light weather, it should be 
passed at a wide berth. No other directions can be given. 

BO WiMBB, — Being abreast Sumburgh head, the course and distance to 
the eaBt point of Mousa island are N.E. 9^ miles. The intermediate 
coast is composed of comparatively low cliffs, the most prominent portion 
being No Ness, rather more than a mile to the south-west of Mousa. From 
its advanced position and precipitous character, it cannot easily be mis- 
taken. The whole of the shore up to this point is steep-to, except between 
Troswick Ness and Levenwick, where the Baas of Clumly extend S.S.E. 
from the shore for 2 cables ; they are covered at high water, and have a 
depth of 19 fathoms close to them. These rocks are out of the proper 
track, either running or working, but the clearing mark is the east end of 



8 SSBTLANB. — SUMBVBGH HEAD TO LUNNA HOLM, [obj^ . i. 



Monsa island (an overhangiiig difE)) open a short distance to the eastward 
of No Ness. 




Lerenwick, N.W. 1^ miles. 

;^— Should a vessel become embayed in a sonth-easterly 
gale between Somborgh head and Mousa island, it is very possible to sare 
life and property in Levenwicky an anchorage upon the south side of the 
bight within No Ness. For this purpose, bear up for the latter promontory 
in good time, and approach it as closely as convenient, as it is steep-to ; 
then a N.W. course for 1-^ miles will lead to Levenwick ; give the low 
sloping rocky point bounding the anchorage (shown extending from the 
left of the accompanying view) a berth of one cable, and anchor within 
it in 5 fathoms, with No Ness just shut in by the .point referred to. 
Here there is &ir berthage for three or four vessels, but a heavy swell sets 
into it in easterly gales, and, consequently, no vessel that can avoid doing 
so, should use it between the months of November and March. 



^ 1| miles long. North and South, and ^ a mile broad, is 
separated from Mainland by a deep channel ^ a mile wide. All the dangers 
surrounding the island show themselves, but Gruna Baas, a sunken reef, 
out of the common track, v^ith 5f fathoms over it, on which the sea breaks 
in gales, lies f of a mile to the north-east of the north part of the island. 
The east end of Mousa is a low overhanging cliff, named the Bard of Mousa, 
with several triangular stacks lying at its base ; by this feature the ishmd 
may readily be known when sighting it in thick weather. An ancient 
Fictish tower stands on a low point on the west side of the island. 
There is a pier at Sandside. 



-The channel withih the island is dear of danger, and available 
for imperfect refrige, should a vessel become embayed in thick weather 
between Mousa and Haly Ness, the projecting point to the northward of 
the island. In such a case, the position of Gruna Baas would be dearly 
marked by broken sea ; pass upon either side of the ree^ and anchor under 
the island, in 14 or 15 fathoms water. 

If, on the other hand, a vessel is embayed north of Haly Ness, and unable 
to fetch Bressay sound, the only alternative is to bear up for and anchor 
in Gulberswick, where the holding ground is good, and from which the 
sea is somewhat deflected by the southern part of Bressay island. 



[at CHAP. I.] LEVBNWIOK, — BEFTJGB. — BBiESSAY. 9 

eji^ The OOA8T firom Moasa to Lerwick is free from danger, and conEdsts of 

cliffs of varying height, perforated by many caves, and backed, for the 
most part, by an elevated and nearly continnons ridge of hills of primitive 
day slate. Vessels working towards Lerwick should keep this shore 

_^ aboard, for during both flood an^ ebb there is an eddy, or counter tide, 

A setting along shore to the north-eastward, the whole way from Aith Baas 

^ to Trebister Ness. . 

From Bard head, Mousa, the bearing and distance to Noss head are — 
N.E. fE.,9i miles; to Ord head N.E. by N., 7 miles; and to South 
Ness, upon the west side of the entrance to Bressay sound, N.N.E. \ E., 
9 miles. 




No88 head, N.E. 9 miles. 

8&BSBAT and iTOBB zs&AirBS, forming the eastern defence to 
Bressay sound, have a well-marked outline, and are readily distinguished, 
whether approaching them from the northward or southward ; the Ward 
hill of Bressay, and the noble headland of Noss being the principal objects. 
Bressay, about 5^ miles in length, and from 2 to 3 miles in breadth, has a 
rocky outline throughout, presenting cliffs of considerable elevation seaward, 
and low rocky points toward mainland. Its margin has been deeply 
indented in many places by the action of the sea ; the interior is hilly, and 
the lower slopes and hollows are generally well cultivated. The Wart or 
Ward hill of Bressay is situated near its southern end, and elevated 
742 feet. It appears as a regular pyramid from most points of view, and 
upon the south side of it are two promontories, the Ord and Bard heads, 
the former being 500 feet, and the latter about 200 feet, in height. Ander, 
or St. Andrews hill, at the north-east part of the island, 400 feet in height, 
is also a well-marked object. Cullensbro* Wick, and the secure little 
harbour Aith voe, are both upon the north-east side of Bressay. 

Noss Island, 1^ miles long, and a mile broad, is upon the east side of 
Bressay, being separated from it by Noss sound, and by a narrow and 
tortuous rocky channel, through which the tide stream runs with great 
rapidity. The island terminates abruptly to the eastward in Noss head, 
which is nearly precipitous, and elevated 577 feet above high water, from 
whence it slopes steeply down to the westward with great regularity, 
having the appearance of a wedge when seen from the south-west or north- 
east. A short distance to the south-west of the head is the celebrated 
cradle of Noss, a contrivance used for crossing a yawning chasm, which 
separates a small holm from the south-west point of the island. 



10 SHETLAND. — SUMBUBGH HEAD TO LUNNA HOLM. [chip. i. 



BOiran>,* — The southern approach to Lerwick is between 
Mainland and the west side of Bressay isLind, and except close in at the 
projecting points, is everywhere free irom danger. It is fully 2 miles wide 
and deep, and from the well-marked character of the land in its vicinity, 
its entire freedom from obstruction, and its easy distance from the first class 
light at Sumburgh head, it is by far the most accessible harbour of refuge 
in Shetland. 

KZOBTi. — The lighthouse on Bressay island is erected on Kirkabister 
Ness, at the east side of the entrance to Lerwick ; it is built of brick 
coloured white, and exhibits a revolving light of the second order, 
sliowing red and white alternately every minute. It is 105 feet above 
high water, and visible in clear weather from a distance of 15 miles. 

umiVTCS, the capital of the Shetland islands, is situated upon the 
eastern side of Mainland, 18 miles to the north-east of Sumburgh head, and 
directly opposite the island of Bressay. Very little of the town is visible 
in the approach through Bressay sound, but after the South Ness has been 
rounded, it will be seen skirting the shore at the foot and on the side of a 
steep bank for ^ a mile. The principal thoroughfare, running parallel with 
the shore, consisti^of an ill-paved winding footpath, there being no 
carriage way ; and the houses, which are all of stone, have been built and 
placed with very little regard to regularity ; deep water approaches them 
closely, and there are numerous convenient landing places. The old 
tolbooth or jail, with a small cupola, standing upon the shore, two kirks 
(established and free), in the higher part of the town, and the fort to the 
northward, are the principal objects. The latter was originally constructed 
in the time of Cromwell ; it was partially destroyed by an enemy's frigate 
in 1673, and was rebuilt and named fort Charlotte in 1781 ; it mounts 
12 guns, and commands the anchorage and its approaches. 

Docks. — In the bight to the northward of the town, and to the westward 
of North Ness, are two small tide harbours or docks, with a depth of 10 and 
7 feet in them at high- water springs, and there are from 15 to 16 feet at the 
quays outside ; appended to them are buildings and timber slips. Ship- 
building is not carried on, nor is there a patent slip at Lerwick, but small 
repairs can be readily executed. 

Bzports.^-Lerwick has no manufactures of any consequence, but the 
trade is considerable. The exports consist of cattle, fish, butter,^ hides, 
sheep, ponies, eggs, and copper and iron ore. About 5,000 tons of dried 
fish were exported in 1875, of which 1,204 tons were sent foreign, the 
remainder to England, Scotland, and Ireland, besides 1,833 barrels of 
herrings sent to Germany. 

* See plan of Bressay sound ; scale m=2 inches, on Admiralty chart of the Shetland 
isles, No. 1,118. 



CHAP. I.] BRBSSAY SOUND. — ^LERWICK. 11 

Imports. — The imports are timber, coals, grain, and groceries. 

Trade. — In 1875, the registered shipping belcmging to the port was 
87 vessels of 3,933 tons, and the arrivals were 104,810 tons. 

Popuiatioii. — Population in 1871 numbered 3,516. 

Consuls. — There are consuls or vice-consuls for France, Spain, Prussia, 
Holland, Belgium, Denmark, Sweden, the Hanseatic towns, and also for the 
United States. 

Supplies. — Lerwick has no regular market, but fresh meat and other 
supplies can generally be obtained upon short notice. The town is ill- 
supplied with water from a well at the south end, and from a reservoir in 
the fort. 

BZWBCTZOiTB. — From abreast Mousa, N.N.E. ^ £. for 7^ miles leads to 
Kirkabister Ness, which may be easily recognized by the lighthouse. Then 
keep along the shore of Bressay island at a convenient distance, and after 
the Head of Ham has been passed, give either shore a berth of about one 
cable, and anchor abreast the town of Lerwick in 10 fathoms, with fort 
Charlotte bearing W. by S. J S. Moor with the small bower to the east- 
ward.* 

CAUTZOsr. — In working, it must be remembered that a small rock, 
named the Hevde Baa, with 7 feet upon it, lies out nearly half a cable's 
length from Nab point. A ledge also extends for 30 fathoms outside 
Lerwick South Ness, which is avoided by keeping Kirkabister Ness shut 
in by the cliffs north of it. The foul ground from Bressay island, named 
the Taing of Ham, is cleared by keeping Kirkabister Ness open of the Head 
of Ham. In addition to these inshore rocks, there is also a sunken ledge 
with 7 fathoms upon it, named the Sillock Baas, nearly midway in a line 
between the Ness of Sound and Nab point ; it is to be avoided in south- 
easterly gales, as the sea then breaks heavily upon it. 



Seaward. — The approach to the north entry from seaward is 
encumbered by several obstructions. They are the Soldian rock. Green 
holm, and the Brethren rocks to the northward ; and Booster holm, with 
the foul ground lying out from it, to the southward. Assuming that a 
vessel is in the fairway between them, and is under the necessity of using 
the north entry without a pilot, Eovey head must be made out and closed 
upon a W. I N. bearing ; or from a position ^ a mile to the southward 
of Green holm, steer W. :^ S. for Rovey head ; the well-marked pyramidal 

* There is abundant anchorage space for eight first-class ships within the South Ness, 
well protected from wind and sea. Mr. H. A. Moriarty, Master, R.N., H.M.S. Reventje, 
1861. 



12 SHETLAND. — SUMBUBGH HEAD TO LUNKA HOLM. [ohap. i. 

hill, Luggies Know, will then be obflerved, a point on the starboard 
bow; and as Boyey head is neared, the entry between Green head 
and Belcher point will open oat ; steer towards it, keeping as near mid- 
channel as possible. The West Brethren rock, kept in sight just outside 
Bovey head, clears the Skibby Baa, and leads in a fairway through the 
remainder of the Narrows, past the point of Scotland (which is steep-to), 
np to the bight of Grimmister, where the vessel is in safety. Afterwards, 
the bktck buoys marking the Middle ground and Loofa Baa are to be 
left to the eastward, and the North Ness given a berth of ^ a cable; 
anchorage may then be taken up abreast Lerwick. 



r to &BS1VZCX. — The north entry into Lerwick 
harbour is a passage about a mile in length between Mainland and the 
north-western part of Bressay ; but being tortuous, and in some places less 
than a cable's length in breadth, it is only available with leading winds. 
The high water depth in it is from 18 to 20 feet over a bottom of sand. 
The obstructions in it are — the Skibby Baa, lying a cable's length from the 
western shore, and nearly J of a mile within Rovey head, which is a low 
rounded point of conglomerate, steep-to, and forming the north-west boun- 
dary of the entrance ; then occur ledges projecting from Scarf and Skerry, 
Belcher and Hogan points, all upon the eastern side ; while above the latter 
point and the point of Scotland upon the opposite side (which together ter- 
minate the Narrows), are the Middle ground, with 7^ feet upon it, and the 
Loofa Baa, which dries ; each is m rked by a black buoy upon its western 
side. The remainder of the channel is clear to abreast Lerwick. 



18. — The streams of flood and ebb run rapidly through the contracted 
part of the north entry, but they are scarcely perceptible in Lerwick 
harbour and Bressay sound, except during springs, when their rate is 
about 2 miles per hour. It is high water by the shore, full and change, at 
lOh. 30m., but the flood and ebb streams continue to run for 2 hours after 
high and low water. Springs rise 6 feet, and neaps 4 feet. 

From Rovey head to the Brethren rocks is N.E. 1 mile, and from 
thence to the Mull of Eswick, N.E. § N. 3^ miles. In this district are 
several harbours as well as outlying dangers, which will now be described. 



socxs. — Two of these rocks named the East and West 
Brethren are always visible ; the reef on which they are based extends 
from them E. by N. :J of a mile, and is steep-to. The channel between it 
and Green holm is ^ of a mile wide, with a depth of 16 fathoms. To pass 
through it, keep the pile on Bressay Ward just to the eastward of Booster 
holm, but the usual and safest passage for vessels bound to the northward 
is to the westward of the Brethren. 



CHAP. I.] . BRETHEEN ROOKS. — SOLDIAN. 13 



is a small grass-covered islet, 40 feet above high water, 
E.N.E. 1^' miles from Bovey head, with foul ground extending from it 
for more than a cable to the south-west and south-east. 

BOiiDZJur is a small sunken rock, showing only at low water of extra- 
ordinary spring tides, lying N. J W. IJ miles from the east extremity of 
Score head, and E. f S. J of a mile from Green holm. When there is a 
swell upon the coast, its position is always shown by breakers. The marks 
for it are, CuUensbro' Ness just shut in by Score head, and the Brethren 
rocks shut in by Green holm. CuUensbro' Ness well open of Score head 
leads to the eastward of the Soldian ; the Brethren rocks, open to the 
southward of Green holm, lead to the southward of it ; and the same rocks, 
open to the northward of Green holm, lead to the northward of it, but in 
the latter case the Nive Baas are an obstruction. The Soldian is separated 
from Green holm by a channel § of a mile wide, with 20 to 28 fathoms in 
it ; it is not prudent to pass through it, as the Nive Baas lie in the line of 
mid-channel, but if compelled to use it, keep within 2 cables of Green holm, 
and then proceed to the northward or north-westward. 

VZVB BAA8, dangerous sunken rocks, and, like the Soldian, visible, 
only at low spring tides, lie N.E. f E. f of a mile from Green holm, and 
N. by W. ^ W. 1| miles from Score head. The Ward of Bressay in one 
with Green holm clears them passing to the westward, and the north-east 
part of Noss island open of Score head, leads to the eastward of them. 

mrzcoaw rbbp, dry at low-water springs, is the outermost of several 
dangers lying off Hawks Ness, a salient point separating Deals and Lax- 
firth voes, and bounding one side of the channel which leads to the voes 
situated within the ness. The reef is E. by S. ^ S. § of a mile from 
Hawks Ness, S. :^ E. ^ of a mile from the west end of Glitness islands, and 
S. W. by W. I W. 2| miles from How stack. It is called the Unicom, from 
the circumstance of a vessel of that name having been wrecked upon it 
while in pursuit of the notorious Earl of BothwelL 




Ward hill of Whalsey, open to the eastward of Frow stack, N.E. f E. 

To clear this danger on its eastern side, keep the Ward of Whalsey open 

to the eastward of Frow stack N.E. | E. ; and to clear it passing to the 

northward, keep Atlas 

' score (a singular notch 

in the outline) open 

to the northward of 

Wadbister point N.W. 
Atlas score, open to the northward of Wadbister point, 

N.W. 




14 SHETLAND. — ^SUMBUEGH HEAD TO LUNNA HOLH. [chap. x. 

No vessel shoald attempt to pass to the south-west of the Unicorn reef, 
as the space between it and Hawks Ness is encumbered by sevecal sunken 
dangers, named the Baas of Hafrks Ness. 



^ two in number, are separated from the Unicom 
reef bj a deep channel § of a mile wide, the common entrj into several 
voes within. The west end of the western island is | of a mile to the 
south-eastward of Railsbro' Ness at the entrance of Catfirth voe, and West 
2^ miles &om How stack. The western island is about ^ a mile iiv length, 
the other is not more than a third of that size ; both are uneven in surface, 
sloping to the northward, with perpendicular cliffs to the southward, on 
which side they are steep-to, and may be approached to -^ a cable. The 
space between the islands and the main is occupied by reefs and detached 
rocks, through which there is a boat passage. 

Within the islets and rocks, just described are several voes, which occur 
in the following order. 



VOB. — ^Kibester Ness, forming the east side of the entrance to 
Deals voe, is N. J E. J of a mile from Rovey head, and W. ^ N. ^ a mile 
from the Wesb Brethren rock. The singular pointed hill, Luggies Know, 
is I of a mile within the ness. The voe is 2} miles deep in a W.S.W. 
direction ; it is seldom used in consequence of being open to the eastward, 
and in the neighbourhood of better harbours. Having distinguished, and 
rounded Kibester Ness at the distance of a cable, the voe will be open, 
and a mid-channel course should be steered. In working, the south side is 
to be avoided, as rocks extend from it for the distance of a cable, but the 
north side may be approached by the lead into a depth of 7 fathoms. 
Anchorage may be taken up in any convenient depth. About a mile from 
the head of the voe, a low stony beach extends nearly halfway across from 
the southern shore, under the protection of which, small vessels may obtain 
good shelter in easterly gales, in a depth of 2^ or 3 fathoms ; but it is 
necessary in passing it, to keep the north shore well aboard, to avoid a flat 
which extends from the east and north-east sides of the beach. 



VOB. — Hawks Ness separates Deals voe from Laxfirth voe, 
another inlet seldom used except by native vessels, though it affords better 
shelter than the former. How stack kept on with the west end of West 
Glitness island for | of a mile, leads to the entrance of the voe, which 
extends W.S. W. for 2^ miles. A berth may be taken up in any convenient 
depth, as the voe is free from danger, but the best anchorage is about 
halfway up in 7 fathoms, with Railsbro' Ness and Wadbister Ness, in one, 
N.E. I N., and the south cliffs of Glitness islands open of Hawks Ness, 
£. by N. I N. Above this position the depths decrease, and the channel 
begins to contract. 



CHAP. I.] GLITNBSS ISLANDS. — CATPIRTH VOB. 16 



▼OB. — Wadbister Ness separates Laxfirth and Wadbister 
voesy the latter harbour being 1^ miles deep in a westerly direction ; it 
is obstructed at its entrance by a rock lying nearly in mid-channel, with 
only 7 feet upon it, and 5 and 6 fathoms close to it. Being off the west 
end of Glitness islands, and intending to enter Wadbister yoe, steer for 
a fair berth outside Railsbro' Ness, and having passed it, bring the west 
end of Glitness islands on with Bailsbro' Ness, and keep them so while 
crossing the mouth of Catfirth voe, until the bluff head abreast Burnt- 
hammer eland house is shut in upon the land to the south of it, or until 
the vessel has arrived at the distance of 1^ cables from Burnthammers- 
land Ness. The north side of the voe, wbich is steep- to, is then to be 
kept close aboard until Hawks Ness is shut in by Wadbister Ness, when 
mid-channel is to be kept, and land-locked anchorage taken up, when 
convenient, in 10 or 11 fathoms. 

CATVZKTB VOB, the innermost voe of this section of coast^ and the head 
of the inlet, though inferior to Dourye yoe a little farther to the north- 
ward, is yet, in some respects, one of the best hai*bours upon the east 
coast of Shetland, being comparatively easy of access, and possessing 
clear shores and land-locked anchorage, and a capacity sufficient for any 
accommodation likely to be required. It is specially available when the 
north entry to Lerwick cannot be attempted without risk, and it has also 
frequently afforded shelter to vessels embayed to the northward of Bressay 
and Noss in south-easterly gales, for there is no difficulty in entering it 
after its position has been ascertained. 

The entrance to Catfirth voe is bounded by Wadbister Ness and Bumt- 
hammersland Ness to the westward, and Railsbro' Ness to the eastward ; 
a clear passage \ a mile wide, and having a general depth of 20 fathoms. 
In the channel within Railsbro' Ness, but rather bordering towards the 
eastern shore, is a small mussel bank with 25 feet upon it, and 7 fathoms 
surrounding it ; the marks for it are, the Ward of Bressay on with the 
western side of Railsbro' Ness S. \ W., and Catfirth house on with the 
western bluff of a small peninsula projecting from the north-eastern side 
of the voe. Catfirth house, kept midway between this bluff and the 
northernmost bluff of Burnthammersl^nd Ness, leads to the westward of 
the bank. 



lOTZOBS. — In entering the voe from abreast Glit Ness islands, 
steer N.W., for Railsbro' Ness, and after it has been passed, the same 
course is to be continued until Kibester Ness and Hawks Ness are in one ; 
the course must then be altered to N. ^ E., and Catfirth house kept in 
sight. Having anuved ab]:east Burnthammersland house, haul over to the 
eastward until Kibester Ness is on with the west extremity of Railsbro' 



16 SHSHiAim. — SVICBUSGH head to LITKKA holm. [chap. I. 

Kcfli ; and when in mid-duuind, aneborage may be taken np in 10 fiilfaoinB, 
with Bnmduyamenland hoofle bearing N.W. by W. f W^ and Railabro' 
boose E. bj S. i S. 

If intending to remain longer than a daj, proceed fartber op tbe voe, 
fceefMngaeaUe from the western shore; and having roonded the north 
part of Bnmtbaaunershmd Ness, baol to the westward nntil it appears in 
one wi^ Baikbro' Ness, and Railsbro' hoose is on with the south bluff of 
the peninsula alreadj adverted to ; here there is secure anchorage in 
H fiidioms. Should the loss of anchors render it necessaiy, the vessel may 
be laid ashore at the head of the voe upon soft mud. 




a bold pyramidal rock, and a prominent object from 
erery direction, is N.E. ^ E. 3| miles from Bovey head, and North 
6| miles from the north- 
east point of Noss island, 
YdiHe the entrance com- 
mon to Lozfirth, Wad- How stack, W. by N. f N. 2 miles. 

bister, and Catfirth voes, between Glitness islands and Hawks Ness, bears 
from it W. j S. 2^ miles. The stack, about 40 fftthoms in length and 
breadth, is steep nearly all around ; its summit and north-western slope 
is covered by grass, sufficient for the support of a few sheep. A reef, 
always partly visible, extends 40 ^thorns from its eastern end, and may 
be approached to the distance of 2 cables. 

Vessels, whether from the northward or southward, bound to Deals, 
Laxfirth, Wadbister, or Catfirth voes, should endeavour to make How 
stack, and take a departure from it, for its bold and marked character 
renders it easily distinguishable even in thick weather. If from the 
northward, pass south of the stack, when a W. :^ S. course for 2-^ miles will 
lead to the entrance between Glitness islands and Hawks Ness. If from 
the southward. How stack should not be brought to the eastward of North, 
until the west end of Glitness islands bears N.W. J W. or N.W. by W. ^ W. 
according to the wind, when the latter may be dosed. 

8WAOXA, a reef always above water and steep-to on all sides, is 
E. ^ N. f of a mile from How stack ; the depth in the intervening channel 
varies from 10 to 20 fiEithoms. In approaching from the eastward, it is^ 
necessary, in order to clear the Snacka, to avoid running in with How 
stack upon a West bearing. 

The bay between Glitness islands and the Mull of Eswick has several 
outlying dangers, and one reef near the middle is always above water. 
The north voe of Glitness, a small harbour occasionally used by the native 
vessels, is protected by a long point stretching put from the west side of 
the bay. 



CHAP. I.] HOW STACK. — SNACKA. — STEPPING STONES. 17 

The 9(iJriA of BS'WZCX is a bold promontory of mica slate, and is 
steep-to ; it is fronted by a detached mass named the Frow stack, already 
used as a clearing mark for the Unicorn reef, and also by the Hevde 
skerry, lying out a short distance from its north-east extremity. 

STBPPzaro STOsms. — ^A succession of reefs and skerries extend in a 
curved form from the Mull of Eswick for several miles to the eastward, 
and as they occur with some degree of regularity, they are not inaptly 
termed " The Stepping Stones." They are six in number, and are named 
the Inner, Middle, and Outer Voders, Little Billian, West Fladdecap or 
Muckle Billian, and East Fladdecap. The three westernmost are covered 
at high water, but are generally easily distinguished by the break of the 
sea upon them ; the others are always visible. The channels between 
these dangers are deep, varying from 13 to 32 fathoms at low water. 

Inner Voder is East ^ a mile from the north extremity of the Mull 
of Eswick ; it is barely covered at high water, and there is a depth of 
9 fathoms close to it on all sides. The mark to pass through the channel 
between the Inner Voder and the Mull of Eswick, is the summit of the 
Ward of Bressay over the highest part of How -stack S.S.W. ^ W., or the 
gap between Hog island and the Hog of Neap open N.E. ^ N. 

Middle Voder is E. by S. 3 cables from the Inner Voder ; this rock is 
small, and visible only at low-water springs. 

Outer Voder, covered at half-flood, is E.N.E. 4 cables from the Middle 
Voder. In case of necessity, the channel between them may be used by 
keeping the outer extremities of Stava Ness and Hog island in one 
N. by E. ^ E. 

Xdttie BUUan, E. by S. ^ S. | of a mile from the Outer Voder, and 
N.E. by E. ^ E. 2^ miles from How stack, has 12 fathoms close to it, and 
is never entirely covered; the portion visible at high water appearing 
like a small boat. Half a cable S.W. by W. :j^ W. from the Little Billian 
is another rock, showing at low-water springs, which is cleared, passing 
to the southward, by keeping East Fladdecap open its own apparent 
breadth to the southward of West Fladdecap N.E, by E. ^ E. 

ygremt Fladdecap, or Muckle Billian, is E. by N. ^ N. rather more than 
a mile from the Little Billian, and from it Whalsey Ward bears 
N.N.E. ^ E. This rock is rugged, 
and being 34 feet above high water 
is a prominent object at all times ; West Fladdecap, W. by N. J N. 1 mile, 
there is a depth of 9 fathoms within J a cable of it in every direction. 
As the channel west of West Fladdecap is thus marked on each side by 
ro^ks visible at all times, no particular directions need be given, except 

37383. B 




TV ,„M,,ANI). -MrMin;»«ll HKAI. lO LCVVA HOLM. I 

, , „,., M,, ,v..«.l."r |.n-v'r.t tP^ :.--.> BIl^ l^-r L-.lr^Uh^. 

V .., ^ ^Uih ^ <^'»" ^'^' ^^ 

v.MoMj^ V i.M«ily ^^^ ^.'^ 

h % (tt l««»v wM^^^t ^r;tt^i'l- from it Ea=t for | of a mile; the nortL- 

^ >i iv» u wl"" »^"*J^''**'f * d^ptfa of 24 fecft being fonnd at the distance 

^^ I (mIuuiio III ^'hni d.'f 'ration ; tbe other sides are steep-to. A detached 

ki u HM'li *^"'' '"''/ ^'^ ^^'^ waU^r npon it, lies W.S.W. | S. 2 cables 

I' iw»l ^'\iM*'^''*i*f ^'''^ fAMnudii the channel between the two Flad- 

I ... kvlihli lU*^ti4orH ('/,uu<A \rh rec^^mmended ; but in case of necessity, 

I lu. vMiI"n«< \fik*^ftp^t'A Ipfdwfyffn the Stepping Stones lead to the channels 
Ui Out \^i4i\wni*^ ^/f Whaln^jy, and also to Dourye voe, a capacious and 
u^,|) hIimII"'"^ harbour, which will Hhortly be described; but the courses' 
ui^tl »H"''*'" *•* ^''''''" fAfjcj^ to object in the several tracks will be better 
^»|.uUMi'»l <'i"''' ^^''' diart. • 

•4«lliilMf K/'offi the north entry to Lerwick to the Stepping Stones, the 
(|(UmI ft\i*'f*ff* f'^fui\uw;H to run to the southward until two hours after high 

HI fiif Vlir0 SAV— xoa MKAWBS, Sko, — Nesting bay, contained between 
lltH IVImII of K(4wU'U and the Ilog of Neap, about 1^ miles wide and deep, 
liiH 'M' K'^'^'^ iifK'honi^c in it, the depths being great, and the space 
niii.iM'«h<'M'd with W!Voral sunken and other dangers. The Climning, the 
lUih'MN'mi of ihim) dfingern, Hoh N.N.E. -^ E. ^ a mile from the north-east 
ti«lM'MHIy of iltn Mull of Kswick ; it has an extent of 2 cables in an 
|i, \iy N. tiut\ W, by H, diredion, and part of it is always above water. 
'I'liii ^u\t h^fw^nn llo^ inland and the Hog of Neap, kept open on a 
f^ I'/ ^ N. \nmrUm (tlin tnark for Icfuling through the channel within the 
liiiMM VmU't'jf v.UmvH ih\n diuignr passing to the south-eastward. The 
|m>)mI fHiMM'ii Umi ttng tif N(>np) and Hog Islands, form together the north- 
M<iW \imiht\my n\' Nnf*flng buy, and alHo the west side of the broad and 
i|ii')» iflMMinMl iMndinij in Doiiryo voo, and to the passages within 
W)h(I(«<7. a llMht wifhili th() Ilog o( Neap, on the summit of a sharp 
^mII »li'nM«Ml hill, 1« N«'iip niHiiHO, which is a very prominent object from 
I hi' Mff)n|i. 

iMMmim VOM, (hp hit-^npi, mionl^ and easiest of approach of all the 
hMihMiiiw ii|Miii lhc»««n«l wlilo of Shetland, has its south-east boundary at 
hiavH Nmmh, N, hy M, ;| 10. t j milopi nx)m the east point of Hog islaiid. 



CHAP. I.] NESTING BAY. — ^DOURYE VQE. 19 

Its entrance may be considered as between Stava Ness and Under hohn, 
which are 1 J miles apart ; from hence, the voe extends N.W. by W. for 
3 miles, with a general depth of not less than 20 fathoms ; it then turns 
abruptly to the southward for more than a mile, and receives the name of 
Crruna voe ; this part is the usual anchorage. 

The whole of the north side of Dourye voe is composed of cliff of 
varying height ; that of Levenip, nearly 1 J miles to the westward of 
Under holm, is a well-marked object. After Levenip, the shore, trending 
N.W. (westerly), is nearly straight, and may be approached to within 
1^ cables. About midway between Under holm and Levenip, and rather 
outside their line of bearing, are two sunken patches, named Gruna reef, 
with 4^ and 5 fathoms upon them, and 18 to 30 fathoms about them. In 
moderate weather they do not form any obstruction, but they must be 
carefully avoided in southerly gales, on account of the heavy sea which 
then breaks upon them. The southern side of Dourye voe has neither so 
regular an outline, nor is it so free from danger as the north side. Several 
bays indent the shore between Stava Ness and Gruna voe, and at 1^ miles 
within Stava Ness is the green islet Ballister holm, and, ^ a mile farther, 
Swarta skerry ; the latter may be approached closely upon its north side, 
but foul ground extends from Ballister holm, and a berth of a couple of 
cables must be given it ; if working, keep the east point of Gruna voe 
open to the northward of Swarta skerry. Between BaUister holm and 
Swarty skerry, and the south-west shore of Dourye voe, are numerous 
rocks which show at low water. 

Within Ballister holm is Ballister voe, an anchorage often used by the 
native vessels, for its convenient position near the outer part of Dourye 
voe. The entrance into it is between CoUiefield Baas and the ledge 
extending from Colliefield Ness to the south-east, and Ballister holm to 
the north-west, the best water being about midway between them. There 
is a depth of 5 fathoms at the anchorage a short distance within ; but the 
available space is very confined, and should only be used on an emergency, 
or by those well acquainted with it. 

"VTater of an inferior quality may be procured from rills upon the west 
side, and at the head of Dourye voe, and other supplies in small quantities 
from the adjoining hamlets. 



iCTZOirs. — In approaching Dourye voe from any of the channels 
between the Stepping Stones, care must be observed to avoid the dangers 
lying out from the south-west side of Whalsey (an island which will shortly 
be described). Having passed these, entrance is easy ; with a leading 
wind, proceed up the middle of the voe until Gruna voe opens ; and when 
rounding into the latter, give the east point a berth of a couple of cables, 

B 2 



20 SHETLAND. — SUMBUBGH HEAD TO LUNNA HOLM. [chap. i. 

to avoid an off-ljing rock which dries at low-water springs. The west 
side of Gruna voe may be approached closelj, and the east side to 
1^ cables ; and having proceeded so far up it as to have Levenip cliff 
shut in bj the east point of the voe, and being rather nearer the western 
shore, let go the anchor in 10 fathoms ; this position has good holding 
ground, and is besides hand-locked. 



covers Douiye voe to the eastward, and is the 
largest of a cluster of islands and islets which here extends in a general 
east direction for 1 1 miles from the main group of the Shetlands. Whalsey 
lies E.N.E. and W.S.W., has a compact outline, and is 5 miles long and 
1^ miles broad. The Ward of Whalsej, already used as a clearing mark 
for the Unicorn reef, is a sharp well-defined hill, 376 feet high, near the 
south-west extremit}' of the island; and a short distance to the north- 
west of it is Symbister, an imposing mansion, and the residence of the 
proprietor. The shores of Whalsey are generally free of dangers at 
2 cables, with the following exceptions. About the middle of the north- 
west side of the island is Kirk Ness, on which stands a kirk, and which 
forms one of the boundaries of the north-east entry into Whalsey sound ; 
N.E. ^ N. ^ of a mile from the ness is a rocky ledge, named the Kirko 
Baas, with only 3 feet upon it, and 2 to 3 fathoms within it. The next 
danger is the Skate of Morrister, a flat ledge lying a cable from the island 
about the middle of Whalsey sound, and abreast Morrister house ; it dries 
at half-ebb, its position at high water is well marked by the rippling of 
the tide over it. The last danger lies ^ a mile from the south-west side 
of the island, between Symbister Ness and Clett head ; it consists of two 
ledges, named the Flessinge of Sandwick and Sava skerry; they are 
always above water, and they bound the south-eastern approach to Dourye 
Toe : they must be carefully avoided. Sava skerry, the southernmost of 
the two, and the turning point, bears S.W. by W. | W. from the centre 
of Clett holm. 

SymbUiter Bay is upon the south-west side of the island, just to the 
northward of Symbister Ness ; here vessels may stop a tide during the 
summer, but it is unsafe in winter, when the days are short, and gales of 
frequent occurrence. To enter it, pass close round Symbister Ness, and 
having opened the houses at the head of the bay, steer for them, and 
anchor but of the stream of tide, in 4 fathoms, sandy bottom. The bay 
is small, being not more than 1-| cables in breadth. 



BOiiMB is the name given to the islets and rocks lying off 
the south-east side of Whalsey. They are as follows : — The Hogo Baas, 
three sunken patches, with only 6, 9, and 10 feet upon them, and with 
25 to 30 fathoms surrounding them, lying S.E. by E. J E. from 1 to 



CHAP, I.] WHALSEY ISLAND. — ^WHALSEY HOIiMS. 21 

1-^ miles from the high bluff Clett head ; their position is marked in gales 
bj the break of the sea. Ungle skerry, a small conical rock, always a 
few feet above water, N.E. by E. f E. nearly a mile from Hogo Baas.; 
from it Clett head bears W, f N., on with a point to the eastward of it ; 
and Skaw Taing point, the north-east extremity of Whalsey, N.E. ^ N. 
Nacker skerry, a large barren rock, \ a cable long and broad, nearly -^ a 
paile South of Skaw Taing point, with deep water between. 

[ Venter, MCuir, and Zsbister Bolms, a short distance to the south-west 
of Nacker skerry, are nearly connected by rocks which dry at low water ; 
collectively, they are about a mile long, and lie | of a mile from the shore 
of Whalsey. Garda Baas are two rocky patches, lying S.E. i S. | of a 
mile from Nacker skerry, and East ^ a mile from Nester holm ; they have 
16 to 21 feet oyer them, with 17 fathoms between and about them, and 
they form a salient point of the channel between Whalsey and the Out 
skerries. The channel separating them from the Out skerries, is 2 miles 
wide and 20 fathoms deep. 

aast Xfnffa, the largest of the Whalsey holms, has a hummock near 
its centre, and the surface of the islet rises from the south towards the 
north ; it is -^ a mile long N.E. by E. and S.W. by W., and 2 cables 
broad ; jis it is the innermost of the cluster, it needs no further des- 
cription. Rumble holm, the south- westernmost of the group, lying E.S.E. 
2| miles from Clett head, and E. -^ N. rather more than 2^ miles from 
East Fladdecap, is about 2 cables in length, and 1 cable in breadth, and is 
rugged and bold. It is used as a station by the fishermen during the 
season, who here find shelter for their boats at a convenient distance from 
the fishing ground, and accommodation for themselves in some huts which 
they h&^e built. A narrow reef, named the Flessinge of Bumble, having 
some of its rocks always above water, lies ^ of & mile from the north-east 
point of Bumble holm. 




Grief and Swarta skerries, N.W. by W. J W. 1 mile. 
Orief and Swarta Skerries are the last to be noticed ; they are the 
south-easternmost or outermost of the cluster. The former is ^ of a mile 
in length, and 2 cables in breadth ; it may be readily known in hazy 
weather by a stone beacon standing on the highest point of the rbck. 
Swarta skerry, 1^ cables to the south-east of Grief skerry, is a dark 
looking rock, more than a cable over, with a smaller rock near it, both 
showing above water at all times ; from them Garda Baas bear N. ^ E. 
2 miles, the Swabe stacks (the westernmost of the Out skerries) N.E. ^ N. 
3 J miles, and Noss head S.W. :j S. 12| miles, 



22 SHETLAND. — SUMBURGK HEAD TO LTJNKA HOLM. [chaf. 



a general rule, vessels in south-easterly gales should 
avoid becoming entangled between Whalsej and its holms, for althoagh. 
the water is deep, the risk would be great either of being driven upon 
Whalsey, or of getting into the broken water of Hogo Baas. Should 
a vessel be necessitated to take this passage, it would be advisable to 
keep within ^ a mile of Whalsey, diminishing the distance to^ of a mile 
abreast Clett head, which having passed, the way to Dourye voe is open« 
The mark to clear Ghtrda Baas passing to southward, is Bumble holm, 
kept shut in by East Linga S.W. | W. ; and the fishermen's beacon on 
Grief skerry, kept to the westward of S.S.W. | W., clears them passing to 
the eastward. The highest part of Bumble holm, bearing E. f S., leads 
to the southward of Hogo Baas ; and Giett head, M.N.W. ^ W., clears 
them passing to the westward. Having passed these dangers, or having 
passed through any of the channels between the Stepping Stones ; and 
being bound to Dourye voe, or through either of the sounds leading to 
the northward, be careful to avoid the Flessinge of Sandwick and Sava 
skerry, lying off the south-west part of Whalsey ; they are above water, 
as above stated, and will generally be seen; but should they not be 
distinguished, Grief skerry, kept open of Whalsey, will lead to the south- 
ward of them, and Whalsey sound kept open clears them passing to the 
westward. 



zsiiBTB upon v.nr. side of WSA&8BT. — Li the channel between 
Whalsey and Mainland, are several islets and rocks having available 
passages between them. 

areat Unara, the largest of these islets, is separated &om Whalsey by 
Whalsey sound. The general direction of Great Linga is NJB2. ^ E. 
and S.W. :^ W. ; it is l;^ miles long, and less than ^ a mile broad ; its 
west, north-west, and south-west sides 'being foul, no vessel should 
approach them ; the south-east side is steep-to within ^ a cable ; the east 
shore towards the north end is skirted by a rocky flat 1^ cables in breadth, 
which may be approached into 7 fathoms. 

VTester Boim, is a small islet at the north-east end of Great Linga, and 
separated from it by a channel 2 fathoms deep ; it should have a berth of 
at least a cable in passing. 

XdtUe &inffa. Soot Bolm, and Swarta Skerry are all connected, 
and based on a rocky flat upon the north-west side of Great linga^ from 
which it is divided by a narrow and unsafe channel. Vessels should 
avoid getting into the stream of this group^ as the flood-stream sets right 
upon it 



CHAP. L] ISLETS N.W. OF WHALSEY. — ^WEST SOUND, &C. 23 

9ne^ Boim, utue Holm, and some outlying rocks, rest on another 
flat upon the south-west side of Great Linga. The two flats form the 
eastern boundary of West sound. 

Vnder Holm, the last islet, lies at a short distance to the south-east of 
Dragon Ness ; the channel between them, 1^ cables in width, constitutes 
the southern part of West sound, while a channel If cables in breadth 
separates Under holm from Bruce holm. For the latter passage there are 
no thwart marks^ and the narrower channel to the westward of Under 
holm is that generally preferred. About ^ of a cable from the west side 
of Under holm is a rock showing at low water, but there are 1 1 fathoms 
close to it ; the south and south-east sides of the islet are bold- to in 
15 fathoms, but the north-east end shelves ofl" for 1^ cables, and then 
suddenly falls into 20 fathoms. 

'WBAXiSBY souiTD — ^VTasT soxnTD, A.O. — Whalscy sound, the channel 
commonly used by vessels of burden, and the only one available for work- 
ing in, is contained between Whalsey and Great Linga, and is about 
2 miles long N.E. and S.W., and J of a mile wide. The obstructions in 
it, (which have already been described,) are the Skate of Morrister- and 
Kirko Baas on the Whalsey side, and a rocky flat projecting from Great 
Linga, on which are two rocks always visible. 

West sound is bounded by the shore of Mainland to the westward, and 
the several small islets just described to the eastward. This channel is 
very narrow between Mainland and Under holm, but it is clear to within 
a moderate distance from the sides. 



lOTZOVS.-^— Both flood and ebb streams run strongly through these 
channels, the rate through West sound amounting at times to 5 or 6 knots 
an hour, so that in using them it is necessary to be somewhat certain of 
carrying a commanding breeze, for the occurrence of light or bafiiing 
winds, after the channel^ have been entered, is not unattended with 
danger. Vessels bound through Whalsey sound, and being abreast 
Symbister Ness, should steer so as to pass within ^ a cable of the south-east 
side of Great Linga, and continue along the same shore until Neap manse is 
on with the south-east side of Great Linga S.W, by W., which is the 
leading mark through -the sound, and is to be continued for about 
2 miles, when Skaw holm will appear open of Challister Ness, and the 
sound is cleared ; then N. by E. ^ E. 4^ miles will lead to Lunna holm 
at the entrance of Yell sound, from whence to Snap point, the south- 
east extremity of Fetlar, the course is N.E. ^ E. 12^ miles. 

A rock, named the Baa of Weather holm, with 20 feet upon it, and 
8 fathoms close aiound it, lies E. by N. | N. ^ a mile from Weather holm ; 
it is avoided by keeping Neap manse clear of Great Linga island. 



24 SHETLAND, — SUMBTJBGH HEAD TO LTJKNA HOLM. [chap. i. 

In working, the manse on with the south-east point of Great linga, or 
Hog islands well open of Sjmbister Ness, will lead outside the Skate of 
Morrister ; Symbister Ness showing clear of the west side of Whalsey 
S.W. ^ W. clears the Eirko Baas on their west side, and the Skerry of 
Skaw well open of Challister Ness E. by S. ^ S., clears them passing to 
the northward. 

The West sound is so narrow, and the tide streams in it are so rapid, 
that it is only a safe passage with a leading and commanding breeze. 
When abreast Under holm, keep Luning head shut in by Dragon Ness to 
clear the rock which lies out a short distance from the south-west side of 
that island ; afterwards, as Dragon Ness and the adjoining shore are steep- 
to, keep within ^ a cable of them ; and the sound will be cleared when 
Whalsey kirk is open of Weather holm, bearing S.E. J E. 

' CAUTiov. — In using the West sound, it must be remembered that t^e 
flood stream sets strongly across the shelving north-east end of Under 
holm. If intending to pass through the channel to the eastward of Under 
holm, keep rather upon the eastern side towards Bruce holm and the rocks 
adjoining it to the noi*thward, 

oxrr BMMBMJMB, — ^The Outermost of the Whalsey gi'oup, with some 
detached rocks lying to the north-west of them, are collectively named 
the Out Skerries, from their advanced position as the easternmost of the 
Shetlands. There are six distinct clusters, but the principal islets are 
Gruna^ Brury, and Housey, lying in close connection, and nearly East and 
West from each other. 



u — Gruna, the outermost islet, is about ^ a mile in 
length, and :|^ of a mile in breadth, having upon its east side five large 
rocks, the outermost of which, Bound skerry, is the easternmost rock of 
the Shetland group. Between Gruna and the islands to the westward is a 
small inlet or harbour, with 9 feet the least depth into* it ; it is frequently 
used by the native vessels and those conveying supplies to the lighthouse, 
and for whose convenience moorings have been laid down ; but as the 
entry is too intricate to admit of a stranger attempting it, except under, the 
guidance of a pilot, further description is needless. 



^ — Gruna lighthouse is built on Bound skerry ; it is coloured 
white, and shows at an elevation of 145 feet above high water a white 
light of the first order, revolving once evert/ minute^ and visible in 
clear weather from a distance of 17 miles. 

From Bound skerry, Noss head and Sumburgh head are nearly in line 
S.W. i W. at the distance of 20 miles and 38 miles respectively ; while to 
the northward, the east point of Fetlar and Balta island are also nearly 



CHAP. I.] OUT SKBRBIES.— LIGHT. — CAUTION. 26 

on one bearing, N. by E. ^ E. 11 and 19 miles distant. There is a depth 
of 40 fathoms within 1^ cables of Bound skerry, and the whole margin of 
Gruna island and the rocks surrounding it may be approached to within 
the last-mentioned distance. 



and Bonsey Islets are (as before mentioned) closely connected 
with Gruna. Mio Ness, the western point of Housey, is about 2 miles 
from Gruna. Both these islets are moderately elevated and have 
irregular'outlines, with several deep passages and inlets ; they^are generally 
bold, and may, with their outlying rocks, be approached as neai* as 
2 cables. 

Beneiips are a small cluster of high islets and rocks a short distance 
to the S.S.W. of Mio Ness ; they are clear at a cable's length. 

riua, Ouens, and Swabe Stacks, form another cluster ^ a mile to the 
westward of the Benelips. The Swabe stacks, two high perpendicular 
rocks, are well marked objects, and have a depth of 15 fathoms within a 
cable. The two narrow passages formed by these groups are named 
Benelip and Filla sounds. 

VongrSf Kittle, and Mnokle Skeiries, are three detached masses, 
averaging from 30 to 40 feet above high water; they lie from 1^ to 
2^ miles to the north-westward of Housey, and all have detached rocks 
about them; they should not be approached nearer than ^ a mile. 
Muckle skerry is N.W. by W. :j^ W, 3 miles from the north-reast pai^t of 
Housey, N.N.E. 6 miles from Qrief skerry, and E. by N. | N, 6 miles 
from the north-east entry of Whalsey sound. 



ICTXOKS. — Both Benelip and Filla sounds may be safely used by 
keeping in mid-channel. The broad and deep channel between Swabe 
stacks and the holms of Whalsey is particulai*ly available for vessels 
caught between the latter islets and the Out skerries ; in this case, a course 
should be steered so as to pass within ^ a mile of Swabe stacks, to avoid 
Garda Baas. Being abreast the Swabe stacks, which are easily recognised, 
the course must then be altered so as to obtain the shelter of the Out 
skerries of Whalsey, or of any of the neighbouring harbours, as most 
convenient. 

OAVTZOW. — It is imprudent to navigate by night among the Out 
skerries and the dangers in connexion with them ; but during daylight, 
and with moderately clear weather, there is no difficulty — the heavier the 
sea, the more distinct are the dangers, for all rocks in a less depth than 
10 fathoms, have broken water over them in the gales common upon 
this coaBt. 



26 SHETLAKB. — SUMBTJfi€^H HEAD TO LUNNA HOLM. [csap. i. 



\lMm ▼OB. — ^The shore from West sound continiies bold, ragged, 
and free from danger to Liming head, from whence its direction changes 
abruptly fr^m north-east to north-west, and so continues for a mile to the 
sloping point named Catness Taing, between which and the point of Lunna, 
is the entrance to Vidlon voe. The approach to this secure harbour, which 
is often used by the native vessels when unable to save daylight or the 
flood stream through Whalsey or West sound, is quite unobstructed ; but 
caution must be observed in rounding Catness Tung, as a small rock lies 
•j^ a cable from it. The entrance, altogether \ a mile wide, is contracted 
by several rocks extending out from the western shore ; they are always 
above water. The largest and easternmost, named Voe skerry or the 
skeiTy of Lunna, has 6 fathoms close to it ; but there is a sunken rock 
lying 30 fathoms to the southward of it. From the entrance, the voe 
continues with an irregular breadth S.W. by W. for \\ miles ; about mid- 
way some sunken rocks, named the Backs, the extremity of the foul 
ground from the point where the contraction of* the voe takes place, 
materially reduce the working breadth. 



ICTZOW8. — In entering this voe with a leading wind, and having 
passed Catness Taing, keep within a cable of the eastern shore. If 
working and standing to the north-west, keep Swarta skerry near Lunna 
Ness in sight, which will clear the sunken rock near Voe skerry, and also 
the Backs and the foul ground in connexion vnth them. The eastern 
shore may be approached into a depth of 8 fathoms, or to the distance of 
-^ a cable. If intending to remain for a tide only, anchor before arriving 
at the contracted part of the voe, in' 10 *to 11 fathoms, mud, with Swarta 
skerry on with Catness Taing ; but for a longer stay, it is better to proceed 
farther up, and anchor in any convenient depth : the soundings decrease 
gradually towards the head of the voe. A swell sets in during north- 
easterly and easterly gales, but not to such an extent as to interfere with 
the security of the anchorage. 



jhimA JKWMB is the extremity of a peninsula 6 miles long, which 
projects from Mainland in a N.E. by E. direction, and forms the eastern 
defence of Yell sound. The whole of the south-eastern iiace of the 
peninsula from Yidlon voe, (abreast the entrance to which it is contracted 
to a narrow neck only 260 yards bix)ad,) is free from danger and steep-to, 
there being 26 fathoms within f of a cable of. the shore. About midway 
among the hills near the shore, is a remarkable isolated rock, named the 
Mare of Lunna ; this massive block stands out in bold relief frx)m the 
ground on which it rests, and assumes the appearance of a house when 
seen frtun a distance in the offing. 



CHAP. I.] LTJNNA NESS. — SWAETA SKBEKY, ifcc. 27 



r, 4ke, — There are several outlying skerries and islets 
near Lunna Ness. The first is Swarta skerry, about ^ a mile to the south- 
east of the ness, and used as a mark for Yidlon voe. This rock is always 
above water, and may generally be seen at a distance of 3 or 4 miles. 
Within less than ^ of a mile to the south-eastward of it there is a depth 
of 50 fathoms. In connexion with it is a small rock always visible, a 
cable distant from its east side. Both may be safely approached within 
2 cables. The next is Lunna holm, an islet off the pitch of the ness, 
about ^ of a mile in length, and 2 cables in breadth. The channel between 
it and Lunna Ness is foul, and only fit for a boat passage. The last is 
Lunga skerry, 2 cables to the south-east of Lunna holm ; it is a small 
black rock always above water, and clear at the distance of a cable. 

The passage Lween Lunna holm and the skerries is free from danger, 
and is often used in off-shore winds ; but, under gefieral circumstances^ 
when bound into and out of Yell sound, it is better to pass outside the 
latter, so as to ensure a stronger tide-set, and to avoid getting entangled 
among the rocks in light winds. 



28 



CHAPTER IL 
SHETLAND^LUMHA HESS TO THE SCAW, INCLUDING TELL SOUND. 



VjjOAnos DT 1876. 
Lmma Ncm - - 21* SO' W. | Scaw . - - 25^ O* W. 



S a strait 13 miks in lengthy and with an iir^ular 
breadth of 3 miles, dividing Mainland Irom the island of Yell, has its 
southern entrance abreast Lanna Ness ; and as it is a channel frequently 
used by the native vessels in proceeding from the east to the west coast of 
Shetland, and also by the whalers after completing their crews at Lerwick, 
it will be described here, before continuing the description of the eastern 
coast. 

The body of the sound throaghout is occupied by many holms, skerries, 
and rocks, which will be first described, and directions given for sailing 
between them and through the sound, and then the various voes which 
indent either shore of the sound will be taken in rotation.* 

ciiOA mocx^ — The south-eastern entrance to Yell sound is between 
Lunna holm, and Muckle skerry near the south-eastern point of Yell island, 
the skerry bearing from the holm N.E. f N. 2 miles. The depth near 
the southern shore varies from 30 to 36 fathoms, decreasing towards the 
north side to 24 and 18 fathoms ; but two-thirds the distance across from 
Lunna holm, and rather more than ^ a mile to the south-west of the 
skerry, is Cloa rock, with only 2 fathoms upon it, and over which the 
sea breaks violently in boisterous weather. The cross marks for it are, 
the Stanyard rock on with a black gap in the cliff near the Horse of Borra 
voe N.N.E., and the Brough of Copista, a ruined Pictish castle, on with 
the north point of Urphacy island N.W. by W. | W. 

OBBBW KO&M and BVBOA 8BBBBT are off the southern shore of 
Yell island, 1^ miles to the westward of Muckle skerry, and between the 
harbours Burra voe and Hamna voe. The holm is ^ a cable long and 
40 yards broad, and is separated from the shore by a channel with 15 feet 
in it at low water : a small rock, always above water, lies ^ of a cable 
from its north-east point ; and \ a cable farther in the same direction, is a 
rocky patch which dries at low water, and is in the way of vessels entering 

* Se€ Admiralty chart of Shetland islands, No. 1,118 ; scale, m = 0*5 inches. Also 
Admiralty general chart of the North sea, from the Channel to the Norway sea, 
No. 2,889 ; scale, d » 8' inches. 



CHAP. II.] TELL SOUND. — RUMBLE ROCKS. 29 

Bnrra voe. Burga skerry, S.W. ^ S., 2 cables from Green holm (in 
which space there is a depth of 5 and 6 fathoms), and W. by N. ^ N. 
IJ miles from Muckle skerry, dries at half-tide, but its position, when 
covered, is generally marked by a ripple or break, except in very calm 
weather. Flats, with 2^ and 3 fathoms upon them, extend from the north- 
west and south-east sides of the skerry, which is greatly in the way of 
vessels rounding Muckle skerry and bound to Hamna voe* 

VRVBACT ZBikAirB is also off the southern end of Tell, and bounds 
the west side of the approach to Hamna voe ; it is 3 cables long, and 
1^ cables broad. The channel between it and Yell has a depth of 8 and 
9 feet. The island is foul upon all sides, and must not be approached nearer 
than 2 cables. A rock, always above water, lies f of a cable from its 
east side ; and 1^ cables from the south point is Yell Baa, a patch of rock, 
the weeds on which* show at low water ; it is connected to Urphacy by 
rough ground, with an average depth of 3^ or 4 fathoms upon it. Another 
patch of rock, with 2^ fathoms upon it, lies W. by N. | N. -J a mile from 
the south-west point of Urphacy, and N.N.E. f of a mile from Great 
Rumble rock ; close to it is a depth of 7 fathoms, and in gales of wind its 
position is marked by breakers. 

SUMB&B SOCX8, the principal danger in navigating Yell sound, from 
their position midway in one of the main channels of the sound, and from 
the rapid tide which sweeps past them, are W.S.W. 4 of* a mile from the 
south-west point of Urphacy, West 3 miles from Muckle skerry, and 
N.W. J W. 2^ miles from Lunna holm. They are two in number, lying 
north and south of each other, more than a cable apart : the northern 
one. Great Rumble, is for the most part covered at high-water springs ; 
Little Rumble appears only at low water : between them is a depth of 
4 to 5 fathoms. A prominent beacon on the Great Rumble would be an 
advantage to navigation, for under certain circumstances of light it is 
difficult to distinguish the summit of the rock, and the break of the sea 
upon it is sometimes but little marked from the foam of the passing tide, 
which sets, whirls, and overlaps confusedly in this portion of the sound. 

FZ8B BO&M is W. by N. | N. 2^ miles from Lunna holm, and 
S.W. i W. 1^ miles from Urphacy ; it is ^ a mile long in a N.E. and S.W. 
direction, and one cable broad, and its shores may be approached to -^ a 
cable, except to the south-westward, where foul ground narrows and 
renders unsafe the channel between itself and Linga. 

BTomUL BAA is a patQh of rock with 2 fathoms over it^ lying between 
Fish holm and the west shore of Lunna Ness, West 2 miles from Lunna 
holm ; the mark for it is, the Mare of Lunna on with Ultrabister house 
S. byE. 



30 SHETLAND. — ^LUNNA NESS TO THE SCAW. [chap.u. 



is -j^ a mile to the westward of Fish hohn, and about 
midway between the latter and Firths Ness, on the shore of Mainland. 
Its direction is N. by E. J E. and S. by W. | W. ; length J a mile, and 
breadth ^ of a mile. Its shores, though rocky, may be approached within 
a cable upon the north, north-west, and south sides. A. ledge extends 
from its south-east side in an E.N.E. direction for ^ of a mile, and fs 
marked at its outer extremity by Sarva skerry, a rock always above 
water ; at } of a cable from the skerry is a smaller rock, which is also 
always above water ; and between these rocks and the south-west rocks 
of Fish holm is a channel, less than ^ a cable in breadth, with 5 fathoms 
in it, but the rapidity of the tides through it, renders it in general 
unsafe for the passage of a vessel. The narrow channel between Linga 
and Firths Ness has 2^ to 3 fathoms in it, and is generally used by the 
native boats passing between the various harbours, on the south-west 
side of Tell sound, but through it also the tide runs with considerable 
rapidity. 

x^eafber Bolm is a little less than ^ a mile S. by W. | W. from linga, 
and is a small islet about 2 cables over ; clear on all sides and steep-to. 

SAIUVKSA, one of the largest islets in Yell sound, lies nearly equi-distant 
from the shores of Yell and Mainland, and is the divisional mark between 
the north and south channels ; it is | of a mile to the northward of Fish 
holm, and f of a mile to the westward of Rupable rocks. Its greatest 
length, in a northerly and southerly direction, is " nearly a mile, and its 
breadth ^ a mile, and it may be approached upon all sides to within a 
cable. The southernmost and safest channel through Yell sound is entered 
between Samphra and Fish holm. 

BZOOA, an islet lying in the same direction, and nearly of the same size 
and form as Samphra, from which it is distant a mile, also lies midway 
between Yell and Mainland ; the channels on either side being deep and 
clear ; that between Bigga and' Yell is f of a mile wide ; the other is 
^ a mile in width. 

Bllffa Bkerry is :^ of a mile from the north-west point of Bigga, and | of 
a mile to the eastward of Mio Ness in Mainland. A small portion of this 
rock is always 10 or 12 feet above water, from which it dries out at low 
water for tlie distance of a cable. 

imrABZB, an islet ^ of a mile to the northward of Bigga, and only 
separated from it by a boat passage among rocks which dry at low water, 
is narrow, and about J a mile in length N. by E. and S. by W., and 
except upon its south-west side, it may be approached in every direction 
to a cable. The channel between Uynarie and Ness of Sound, a rounded 
peninsula projecting from Yell, is quite clear, and ^ a mile wide. 



CHAP.n.] LINttA ISLAND. — SAMPHRA. 31 

BSOTBSS xs&AarB, at the termiiiation of the narrow portion of Yell 
sound, is N.W. J W. ^ a mile from Uynarie, and N.N.E. | E. one mile 
&om Mio Ness ; it is rather more than ^ a mile long N.N.W. and S.S.E., 
and ^ of a mile broad. The Stoura Baa, a rock drying at low water, lies 
N.N.E. -^ E. ^ of a mile from the northernmost part of the islet, with 
5 and 6 fathoms close to it, and a ledge also extends from its south-east 
point for a cable ; with these exceptions, the island may be approached to 
that distance. 

Tingra Skerryf a large rock 20 feet above high water, lies S.W. by W. 
f of a mile from the north part of Brother island, and N. by W. ^ W. 
1 mile from Mio Ness. At a oable E.N.E. ^ E. from it is a small rock, 
also visible at high water, and connected with the larger ma«s by rocks 
which dry at low water ; they may be neared to -J- a cable. 

KZTT&B SOOB, an islet so named from its red cliffs, is N.W. by W. 
§ mile from Mio Ness, and it partly covers the entrance to Urka voe. It 
is ^ a mile long N.N.W. and S.S.E., and 2 cables broad ; it is clear of 
danger on all sides at the distance of 1^ cables. 

KABKMA, or Lamba island, N. | W. ^ mile from Little Rooe, and 
E. by S. ^ S. f of a mile from Ollaberry Ness in Mainland, lies in an 
E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction, and is of the same general size, as Brother 
island. A rock, uncovered at low water, lies 1^ cables from its eastern 
point, abreast which, the island should have a berth of ^ of a mile ; with 
this exception, it may be approached to 1^ cables. 

noBD and MZB80UBB, or iMKtKA. BJULS, are separate sunken rocks, 
with 12 fathoms about them, lying well out in the body of Yell sound ; 
and as the sea breaks heavily upon them in northerly and westerly gales, 
they are particularly dangerous at such times. The Fiord has only 9 feet 
upon it, and lies N.E. 1 mile from the north-east point of Lamma, 
and N. by W. J W. I^ miles from Brother island. Midsound Baas, with 
8 feet upon them, are N ^ E. 1^ miles from the north - east point of 
Brother island, and abreast, and nearly midway between the Fiord and 
Yell. 

KZTT&B BO&M is nearly in the middle of Yell sound, about a mile 
from the sunken dangers just described ; it is not more than | of a cable 
in extent, and a small rock, always above water, lies J of a cable from 
its north-east side. The centre of the holm is N. by W. |^ W. 3 miles 
from the north point of Uynarie, and nearly in the line of Midsound 
Baas, and N.E. | N. 2^ miles from Lamma, and nearly in the line of the 
Fiord. 

STOVB BOi^M is N. by E. | E. I^ miles from Little Holm, and, like 
the latter, lies well over towards the middle of the sound. It is 1 J miles 



32 SHETLANB. — LtJNNA NESS TO THE SCAW. [chap. u. 

in length N.E. f N. and S.W. | S., and being clear of outlying rocks, may 
be approached on every side to within a cable. 

The north entrance of Yell sound is 4 miles from Stour holm, and in 
this space there is no obstrnction to the navigation. 

The sides of the sound are, with a few exceptions, bold-to. The whole 
of Yell shore may be closed to within 1^ cables from Copista Brough to 
the western coast ; and in this district there are only two outlying islets, 
Sandwick holm, nearly abreast Stour holm, with a small rock always above 
water lying ^ of a cable from its north point, and a ledge extending from 
its south end for the same distance, — ^and Swine holm, 1^ miles farther to 
the northward. As these islets are but a short distance from Yell, and 
lie out of the main navigation, they need no further notice. The south- 
west or Mainland shore is also nearly free of outlying rocks ; the excep- 
tions being the skerries of Skea, lying nearly ^ a mile from the shore, 
abreast of Little holm, and the skerries of Rooe, abreast Stour holm. By 
daylight, both these clusters are visible at a considerable distance, and they 
may be approached to within 2 cables. In working, vessels should keep 
without the indentations in the shore on either side. 

BZ&BCTZOxrs. — In navigating Yell sound, it is necessary to remember 
that the rate of the tide stream in the south, or narrow portion of the 
sound, is exceedingly rapid (6 and 7 knots, according to reliable authority), 
and a commanding breeze therefore is requisite to insure a safe passage 
through it. 

As the Rumble rocks and Yell Baa materially obstruct the north 
channel, the channel between Samphra and Mainland is always to be 
preferred. 

The first danger to be avoided in entering the sound is Cloa rock, 

already mentioned ; the 
breakers in open weather 
disclose its position ; but 
at other times, the Horse 
of Burra voe, open or to 

„ ^T. * *!, ^ * -J ^rxT ui *^® eastward of Muckle 

Horse of Burra voe, open to the eastward of Muckle 

skerry, N.N.E. J N. skerry N.N.E. ^ N., will 

lead to the eastward of it ; Copista Brough, open of the north point of 
Urphacy W.N.W., leads to the northward ; and the Brough, shut in by 
Urphacy N.W. by W. ^ W., clears it, passing to the southward ; while the 
Horse of Burra voe, on with Stanyard rock N.E. by N., will lead to the 
westward. 

CAVTZoar. — Care must be observed not to mistake for the Horse of 
Burra voe a point of similar character ^ a mile to the northward of it. 




CHAP. 11.] YELL SOUND. — ^DIRECTIONS. 33 

Copista Brough in one with the north part of Urphacy leads to the 
southward of Burga skerry. 

To pass between Rumble rocks and Yell Baa, keep the north point of 
Bigga on with Copista Brough N. W. by N. ; this mark also clears on 
the outside, the rocky 2^ fathoms patch to the westward of Urphacy. 
Enfield, a white house standing above the north poin*: of Firths voe in 
Mainland, kept well open of the south point of Samphra W. J N., leads 
to the southward of the Rumble rocks ; and the south point of Bigga, shut 
in upon the north point of Samphra, will lead to the westward of them. 

The north-east point of Lamma, on with or open to the westward of 
Tinga skerry N.W. by N., clears the foul ground from Sliga skerry. 

Stoura Baa, the rock lying out from the north point cf Brother island, 
is cleared passing to the eastward by keeping the east side of Samphra 
touching the west side of Uynarie S. | E. 

The north-east points of Uynarie and Brother island, kept in one 
S.E. I E. leads between Lamma and the Fiord. 

The east side of Bigga, touching the west side of Uynarie South, leads 
to the eastward of Midsouud Baas ; and Green holm, near Fethaland point, 
kept to the westward of Stour holm N. by E., will lead to the westward 
of them. 

The foregoing comprise all the clearing marks to be used for avoiding 
the dangers in Yell sound ; for after the Fiord and Midsound Baas have 
been passed, the remainder of the strait has a breadth of 3 miles, with 
only two obstructions. Little and Stour holms; and the difficulties of 
navigating are also materially lessened, from the rate of the tide streams 
not being half that to which they attain in the southern part of the sound. 

TZBBS. — ^Between Urphacy and Burra Ness, the flood set during the 
first three hours is to the eastward, but for the remaining three hours and 
the whole of the ebb, the set is to the westward. The southern limit of 
this eddy tide is half-way across the sound, with Ronas hill on with the 
south part of Urphacy. 

BAMiTA von,* the first voe which occurs to the southward on entering 
Yell sound, is 2 miles to the westward of Lunna Ness, and immediately to. 
the eastward of Setter Ness. The security of this small harbour is much 
increased by a natural breakwater which projects directly out from its 
eastern side, leaving an entrance only ^ a cable wide, with a depth of 
3 fathoms, which increases quickly within to 5 and 10 fathoms ; but owing 
to the difficulty of exit with foul winds, the voe is only frequented by the 
native fishing vessels. In approaching this voe, it is necessary to be 
careful of the Stoura Baas opposite Ultrabister house, and in entering, to 

* Hamna is a name generally applied in Shetland to those voes which have a basin- 
like form, with a narrow entrance. 

37383. C 



34 SHETLAND. — ^LUNNA NESS TO THE SCAW. [chap.h. 

keep rather over towards the western side.' When within, anchorage may 
be taken up in any convenient depth, the available space being about ^ of 
a mile square. 

ygrmsT VOB of JajmiL, at the western end of the peninsula of Lunna, 
and 1^ miles from Hamna voe, indents the shore in a south-easterly direction, 
leaving a narrow isthmus, only 230 yards broad, between its head and the 
western side of the entrance of Yidlon voe. At its outer entrance abreast 
Cul Ness, the southern point, the voe is ^ a mile wide, with a depth of 
18 fathoms, which decreases towards the shore to 10 fathoms ; but about 
midway up the voe, between Pond holm and a long low projecting point 
abreast, the channel is reduced to a cable in breadth, and the depth to 
5 fathoms ; a short distance farther in is a bar, with 13 feet at low water ; 
beyond which, the voe again expands, and has an average depth of 4 and 
4^ fathoms, and here is the anchorage. 

In entering, it is necessary to avoid a small rock which is uncovered at 
low water, and lies J a cable to the northward of Pond holm j there is 
also another rock always above water at the end of the spit from the north- 
east shore, abreast which, is the narrowest part of the channel. 

The voe is available for vessels drawing 13 feet water, and it is much 
frequented by small sloops and fishing vessels. 

swnrnro voa is immediately to tbe westward of the west roe of Lunna^ 
Cul Ness being a point common to both ; its entry is ^ a mile wide, from 
whence the voe gradually diminishes in breadth, and extends in a S.S.W. 
direction for 1^ miles, when it ends. The head of the voe dries for ^ of a 
mile at low water, and then shelves off shoal for -^ a mile farther, so that 
depth available for anchorage is confined to the first mile within the 
entrance. 

A depth of 8 fathoms will be found within 60 yards of the western shore 
of the voe, but the opposite side is neither so direct nor so bold, and should 
be given a berth of a cable. In entering, proceed in mid-channel for J of 
a mile, until abreast a small skerry, which is connected with the south-east 
shore at low water ; and here, having Setter Ness shut in by Cul Ness, 
and the skerry bearing S.E. by E. ^ E., anchor in 10 fathoms. Two 
cables within this position, the depth suddenly decreases from 10 to 
4 fathoms. 



has its entrance between Colifrith Ness and Fora 
Ness, and is about f of a mile to the south-west of Weather holm, one of 
the islets already described. The voe runs in 1 J miles in a W. by S. direc- 
tion, has a nearly uniform breadth of 2 cables, and is steep-to on either 
shore ; but as the depths in it are great, even towards the head, and it is 
exposed to gales from the eastward, it is only frequented by boats. 



CHAP.n.] VOES IN YELL SOUND. 35 



voa is separated by a rectangular strip of high land § of a mile 
in breadth from Colifrith voe, and like the latter, has its channel of approach 
between Colifrith Ness and Fora Ness, but its immediate entrance, feeing 
southwards, is between Deals Ness and the west shore of Fora Ness, a 
passage 2 cables wide, and steep-to on both sides. Within the entrance. 
Deals voe runs in the same general direction as Colifrith voe for 2^ miles, 
with a breadth gradually decreasing from ^ a mile. The conmion anchorage 
is about half-way up, in 11 fathoms water, just below a small point 
pi'ojecting from the north shore, where the greatest contraction of the voe 
begins. 

Special directions for navigating Deals voe are unnecessary, as there 
are no outlying dangers, and the shores throughout are steep-to, and may 
be approached within ^ a cable. The depth diminishes with regularity 
from 17 fathoms at the entrance, and the holding ground throughout is 
excellent ; it need be so, for with westerly winds the gusts descend with 
great violence from the high land enclosing the voe on either hand. In 
moderate weather, the same feature renders the voe subject to calms and 
baffling winds, and makes entry difficult. 



VOB, the entrance to which, i a mile wide, is between the 
northern point of Firths Ness and Enfield point, and nearly opposite the 
northern part of Linga, is frequented by the country sloops as a good stop- 
ping-place for a tide in the summer months. The voe is of a triangular 
form, and about a mile deep in a west direction ; the depths diminish from 
14 fathoms at the entry gradually .towards the head, and for half the dis- 
tance the shores on either side may be approached to ^ a cable ; afterwards 
the sides are shallower, and the head of the voe dries at low water for 
1^ cables. 

BCofls Bank. — On the shore of the sound, ^ a mile to the northward of 
Enfield, is Moss bank, the post-offlce of the district^ and the seat of the 
feiTy across Yell sound. 

TOVTS VOB has its south point 2 cables to the northward of Moss bank, 
and its form is that of an irregular triangle. One mile wide at its entrance, 
it extends inwards § of a mile in a westerly direction, and its sides, which 
are free from danger, may be approached to a cable, and its head to within 
:^ of a mile. The usual anchorage is in 10 fathoms, soft clay, with the 
north point of Bigga on with the northern point of the entrance. 

This voe is one of the most convenient anchorages in Yell sound ; it is 
of easy access, the ground is excellent for holding, and although it has 
a north-easterly and easterly exposure, yet the rapid stream passing the 
entrance, has the effect of reducing the sea and maintaining smooth water in 
the voe. 

c 2 



36 SHETLAND. — ^LUNNA NESS TO THE SCAW. [chap. n. 

From Tofts voe to Mio Ness, the shore may be neared in working to 
1^ cables. 



▼OBp between the peninsula of Urka and the western shore of 
Mio Ness, is nearly 2 miles long in a south-westerly direction, but nearly 
^ a mile of its head is dry at low water ; it also, like the voes just described, 
is of a triangular form, and its entrance, a mile wide, is partially protected 
by Little Rooe and Tinga skerry. This voe is free from obstructions ; the 
bottom shelves regularly in every direction, and anchorage may be taken 
in any convenient depth, but it is prudent not to go iuto less than 7 fathoms, 
as the breadth above that is very contracted. 

The voe is not much frequented, on account of the close proximity of 
the superior anchorage of Tofts. 



voa. — Colbrack Ness, the western point of Urka voe, is the 
eastern boundary of the entrance to Sulem voe, a noble sheet of water 
7 miles deep, and one of the longest voes in Shetland. The head of the 
voe is only separated from the western shore of Mainland by a narrow 
isthmus, ^ a cable broad, across which boats are frequently dragged to 
avoid the round of North Mavine, the name borne by the northern portion 
of Mainland, thus nearly disconnected. 

Sulem voe is of a winding form, but its general direction is about south- 
west ; its average breadth is about a mile, and the depths in it vary from 
28 to 10 fathoms. It is nearly free from obstructions at a fair berth from 
the shore on either side, the exceptions being Nug holm, with a stony 
extension from it, 2 miles within the entrance, and ^ a mile from Foula 
Ness, and the long shelving point, Agrista Ness, about a mile from the 
head of the voe* 

Upon entering the voe, proceed in mid-channel for nearly 2 miles, and 
on nearing Nug holm, bring the north-east point of the peninsula of Glus 
on with the south-west part of the peninsula of Urka N. by E. J E., the 
mark to lead clear of the east side of the bank from Nug holm, which is 
steep-to. Small vessels may, if necessary, pass between the holm and 
Foula Ness in 16 feet at low water. 



voa, the usual anchorage, on account of the moderate depths 
in it, and its convenient position, is on the south-east side of Sulem voe, 
and abreast Nug holm. The marks for the anchorage are Garth Ness (the 
western point of Garth voe), on with the south extremity of Foula Ness 
W.N.W. ^ N., and Garth house E. | N. in 7 fathoms, muddy bottom ; 
but vessels may anchor farther in if necessary, as the depths decrease 
gradually towards the shore. 



CHAP. II.] VOES IN YELL SOUND. 37 

For several miles above Garth voe, no directions are necessary, as the 
shores on either side are clear, and may be approached closely, but between 
Agrista Ness and Voxter Ness, the channel, being considerably contracted 
by the tongue stretching from the former point, is termed the Narrows, 
and it is necessary to keep well over towards Voxter Ness. Above this 
the voe expands, and anchorage may be taken up at the head in 19 fathoms 
mud, about 2 cables from the shore, with a prominent storehouse, which 
stands on the beach below Brae house, bearing S.E. | S. 

G&vs VOB, immediately on the west side of the entrance to Sulem voe, 
stretches in between the peninsula of Glus and the shore of North Mavine 
for 1^ miles with an irregular breadth ; half way up it is little more than 
a cable across, while at its head the width is -^ a mile. The sides are clear, 
and the general anchorage is a cable from the head of the voe, in 6^ fathoms, 
mud, with Ollaberry Ness touching the west side of the peninsula of Glus. 
This voe is but little frequented, as it cannot be entered or quitted except 
with a fair wind. 

Vessels may anchor in off-shore winds in Ollaberry bay, upon the south 
side of Ollaberry Ness ; the best berth is in 8 or 9 fathoms, with Ollaberry 
house bearing N. ^ W., and Colbrack Ness open of the north-east extre- 
mity of Glus peninsula. 



vofi is opposite Lamma, and nearly f of a mile from Olla- 
berry Ness ; it is ^ a mile broad at the entrance, and nearly a mile deep 
N.W. by. W. to the beach at its head ; its shores are clear, and the outer 
half of the voe has a convenient depth, but it is little used by the native 
vessels, as it is inferior to the neighbouring voes. 



VOE is separated from Quy firth voe by a narrow tongue 
of high land named Quyfirth Ness ; it is a mile deep, and ^ a mile wide ; 
the south shore is plain, but upon the north side, are two small bays ; at 
the head of the innermost bay is a deep ravine, with a burn running down 
it that is crossed by a smaU bridge : in this bay is the usual anchorage, and 
a berth may be taken up in 7 or 8 fathoms, clay, at 1^ cables from either 
shore, with Colifirth Ness, shut in by Lockend point at the eastern side of 
the bay. 



ROOB4 the last of the voes upon the west side of Yell sound, is 
directly abreast Stour holm, and may be recognised from a distance by some 
prominent houses skirting its shore. This inlet is of a circular form, but 
the entrance into it is contracted, and is rendered difficult by a patch of 
rocks, which dry at low water, lying nearly in the middle of the entry ; on 
either side of it there is a depth of 14 feet, increasing within to 3 and 3^ 
fathoms over a bottom of sand. 



38 SHETLAND. — ^LUNNA NESS TO THE SCAW. [chap. n. 

As already described, two large rocks always above water, named 
the skerries of Rooe, lie to the northward of this harbour. In entering 
with the outermost of the skerries of Skea on with Calsta Ness S. by W., 
and then with the skerries of Booe in one E. by N. f N., a large white 
house will be obserred close to the shore on the north-west side of the 
Yoe ; steer for it, keeping within ^ a cable of the eastern point of the 
entrance, and continuing on this course until the outermost of the skerries 
of Booe is shut in ; this is the mark for clearing the rocky patch in the 
entrance, having passed which, a berth may be taken up about the middle 
of the voe ; small vessels may go farther in. 

Only two more voes require notice, and they are both in YeU at the 
south entrance of the sound. 

HAMiTA voa is entered between Urphacy island and Burga skerry, 
which are about a mile apart, and the voe running in from thence in a 
N.N. W. direction is l-J miles long, and on the average ^ a mile wide, but it 
is much contracted midway by a low peninsula connected with the eastern 
shore. This voe is exposed to gales from S.S.E. to S.E., but the holding 
ground is good, and the sides being free from obstructions, may be neared 
to I a cable. 

The dangers are all visible with the exception of Burga skerry, which is 
covered at half tide ; having passed to the southward of this (by using the 
mark already given on page 33), keep within ^ a mile of Urphacy island 
and the west shore until the voe opens, and then proceed in. The usual 
anchorage is in 7 fathoms before arriving at the low peninsula mentioned 
above, or farther up, with three small houses on the western shore bearing 
S.W., about 2 cables distant. In this position there is a depth of 4^ 
fathoms and comparatively good shelter. 



voa is immediately to the north-east of Burga skerry and Green 
holm, and at the south-east extremity of Yell island; the voe runs in 
E.N.E. for ^ a mile, and is narrow and of difficult passage. Within, there 
is a depth of 3 and 3^ fathoms, but as a bar with 9 feet upon it stretches 
across the entrance, the voe is only available to vessels of that draft, and 
the services of^a pilot are indispensable. 

Being obliged to enter Burra voe itom. stress of weather, or other cause, 
close Green holm on a N.W. by W. bearing, and having arrived about a 
cable from it, steer north-easterly for the entrance till the voe opens. In 
entering, keep rather towards the south shore, and having passed the 
easternmost white house on the north shore, anchor in the middle of 
the voe in 3^ fathoms. 

Having thus described Yell sound, the description of the eastern coast of 
Shetland will now be resumed. 



CHAP. II.] MUOKLB AND LITTLE SKERRIES — PETLAR. 39 

MUcx&ii and KZTTiiB SXBRAZBS (or as they are sometimes called 
the skerries of Niveback), rocks always above water, lie close off Burra 
voe, and together form the northern boundary of the south entrance into 
Yell sound. The Muckle or largest skerry is about a cable over, and 
^ a cable in breadth ; the little skerry is l^ cables W. by N. \ N. from 
the Muckle skerry. The Muckle skerry is bold-to, with the exception of 
its north-west side, from which a small rock, dry at low water, lies out at 
the distance of a cable, and another small rock, ^ a cable farther to the 
north-east. The little skerry is foul to the north-east. 
' No vessel should attempt to pass between these rocks, but a channel 
1^ cables wide with 9 fathoms in it, separates them from the rocks of 
Burra Ness. 

The Stanyard rock is a high isolated mass upon the shore, f of a mile to 
the northward of the skerries, and abreast the head of Burra voe. Three* 
quarters of a mile farther is the Horse of Burra voe, a high and conspicuous 
conical mass, connected by a neck of lowdr ground to the point off which 
it is situated. Both the Stanyard rock and Horse of Burra voe are very 
prominent objects from the sea, and have already been used as clearing 
marks for Cloa rock (page 28). 

The south-east coast of Yell from Burra Ness to Reafirth voe (omitting 
the indentations), is free from danger at the distance of 2 cables, so that 
. a vessel passing at a berth of ^ or -^ a mile, according to circumstances, 
will be in safety. Six miles from Burra Ness are the islands of Fetlar and 
Hascosea, forming between themselves and Yell, Colgrave and Hascosea 
sounds. 

VBTXiA&f the fourth of the Shetland islands in respect to size, is of irre- 
gular outline, being deeply indented by several large bays ; it lies in a 
general south-east and north-west direction, and is 5 miles in length and 
about 2^ miles in breadth. The island is elevated to north-east, attaining 
in the Vord hill a height of 521 feet, and the East Neap, a cliff fronting 
it to the north-east, is one of the most imposing objects in the Shetlands. 
The surface of the island is in an advanced state of cultivation, and Burgh 
hall, near its north-west extremity, is the residence of the proprietor, and 
the most prominent of the few houses which stand on the island. 

As the coast of Fetlar is nearly free of danger, no particular directions 
for it are necessary, but several of its bays are often used as anchorages 
in off-shore winds. 

Tresta Bay, the largest of these, is upon the south side of the island 
between Mouwick head and Snap point, nearly 2 miles deep in a N.N.W. 
direction, and a mile wide. Its shores are bold and have no outlying 



40 SHETLAND, — ^LUNKA NESS TO THE SOAW. [chap. n. 

rock», but it is exposed to south-easterlj gales of wind, and even westerly 
gales drive a considerable swell round Mouwick head into the bay. 

In approaching Tresta bay from the westward, some rocks off Bams Ness 
are to be avoided ; there are three i»f them ; they dry at low-water springs, 
and the outermost is fully 2 cables from the shore ; the high red cliff, the 
West Neap of Fetlar, kept in sight, clears these rocks on their west side, 
and a berth of ^ a mile leads to the southward. Mouwick head may be 
rounded closely, and the western shore of the bay kept aboard, as they are 
steep-to. Steer towards the beach at the head of the bay, and when 
Mouwick head is shut in by the lowest projecting point to the northward 
of it, bearing S. by E. ^ E., and the manse bears N. f E., anchor in 
10 fathoms water, the nearer to the western shore the better, to avoid the 
swell. In working into the bay, give the points a berth of a cable. 

Oratiiiflr Bay is on the north'-east side of Fetlar, between Strandburgh 
Ness and the East Neap ; at the foot of which is a high, inaccessible, and 
conspicuous rock, named the Clett. This bay has a general south-westerly 
direction, and is f of a mile deep and wide ; the north-west side may be 
neared to a cable, and the south-eastern to half that distance ; the depths 
gradually decrease towards the shore. A low promontory, giving the 
bay a double head, has a reef extending from it for the distance of -^ a 
cable. The usual anchorage is in the south-eastern corner of the bay. In 
approaching it, keep along the eastern shore, and when the north-west 
side of the Clett is apparently touching the point of Fetlar next south of 
it N. by W., and Hesta Ness is E.N.E. | N., bring up in 6 or 7 fathoms, 
sandy bottom. Small vessels may continue on for ^ of a mile into a depth 
of 4 or 5 fiftthoms. 

From Heilinabretta, the north-east extremity of Fetlar, the course 
to the south entiy into Balta sound is N.'by E. ^ E., 8 miles, and to Lamba 
Ness N.N.E. 12 J miles. 

BAScosaa. ibjulnj^ lies between the north-west side of Fetlar and the 
eastern coast of Yell ; the passages to the eastward and westward of it 
being named respectively, Colgrave and Hascosea sounds. Like Fetlar, 
it is of irregular form^ and is about 1^ miles long and a mile broad. The 
island is steep-to nearly throughout, but off its south-west end, at a 
distance of 3 cables from the shore, is a patch of rocks named Hascosea 
Baa ; the rocky ledge connecting it with the island having a depth of 
1 to 3 fathoms upon it. A house (the only one) stands near the south-west 
end of the island. 

CO&OBAVE and BASCOSBA. SOTOD8 are equally available to vessels 
bound to the north-east within Fetlar. Colgrave sound is rather more 
than ^ a mile wide, and both sides are clear at the distance of a cable. 



CHAP. II.] COLGRAVE AND HASCOSEA SOUNDS. — BASTA YOE. 41 

The general course through is N.E. by N. The Horse of Burra voe kept 
well open, or the islet Sound Gruna seen to the eastward of Hascosea, leads 
to the eastward of Haseosea Baa. Having cleared the sound, Basta voe 
is open to the north-west; and Blue Mull sound and the channels between 
the islands north of Fetlar, will also be open to the northward and north- 
eastward. 

Haseosea sound is not so direct as that of Colgrave, but with the excep- 
tion of Haseosea Baa, it is equally clear of outlying danger. Hevdegarth 
head on the north side of the entrauce of Reafirlh voe, shut in by Lusetter 
head, leads to the south-west of Haseosea Baa. A flat extends for some 
distance to the north-west, from Yell shore opposite Haseosea, but this is 
avoided by keeping well out towards the middle of the sound ; and having 
cleared the latter, Basta voe and the neighbouring channels will be 
open. 



▼OB, or, as it is perhaps more commonly termed, Mid- Yell 
voe, is a deep winding indent in Yell, opposite the south-west end of 
Haseosea ; the entrance is bold but narrow, and there is space within for 
the secare berthage of a considerable number of vessels. The voe winds 
to the north-west for 1^ miles : the narrowest part of the entry between 
Hevdegarth head and the southern shore is only ^ of a mile wide. The 
land on either side is very high, the voe is consequently subject to eddy 
winds, particularly when it is blowing strong from the northward. 

BIRBCTZOVS. — In approaching Eeafirth voe through the south part of 
Haseosea sound, and having cleared Haseosea Baa as previously directed, 
it is necessary to give Vatsetter and Lusetter heads a berth of a cable, 
and having passed the latter head, the voe opens. Kay holm and 
Hevdegarth head, both upon the north side of the entrance, may be neared 
to ^ a cable, at which distance there is a depth of 5 fathoms. When the 
vessel is so far through the entrance as to have the manse on the high 
ground upon the port beam^ a course must be shaped more northerly, and 
when Lusetter head is shut in by Hevdegarth head, and the kirk, which 
stands low on the margin of a bay in the southern shore, bears S.W. ^ S., 
anchor in 6 fathoms, over a bottom of mixed mud and sand — this position 
is landlocked. Small vessels may take a berth farther up the voe, or 
towards either shore, at discretion. 

CAVTZOW. — In working, care must be taken to avoid a flat which 
occupies the bay in front of the kirk ; it may be neared by the lead to 
the depth of 4 fathoms ; the points aleo should have a fair berth given 
them. 



VOB is 2 miles from Mid- Yell voe, and opposite the north part 
of Haseosea island. This harbour is free from outlying danger, and runs 



42 SHETLAND. — ^LUNNA KBSS TO THE SCAW. [chap. n. 

inwards in a N.N.W. direction for 3 miles, the breadth gradually de- 
creasing from ^ a mile at the entrance. 

If approaching the voe from the north-eastward, it is necessary to give 
the eastern head of Burra Ness a berth of •^ a mile, to avoid a rocky ledge 
which projects 2 cables from it. Proceed up the voe in mid-channel; 
or if working, close either side by the lead into a depth of 6 fathoms. 
Nearly 2 miles up the voe, is the second of two low points projecting from 
the northern shore, fronted at low water by a beach of shingle 140 yards 
broad, under the protection of which, is the usual anchorage. Having 
passed the point, bring Basta Ness on with it, and anchor in a depth of 
6 or 7 fathoms, clay. 

/ Supplies. — Quantities of native oysters may be procured in this voe 
with little trouble ; fish of various kinds are also plentiful, and a fair 
quantity of ordinary supplies may at times be procured at reasonable 
charges. 

The following is a brief description of several small islands lying to the 
north of Fetlar, and in the mouth of Blue Mull sound : — 

Bound Oruna is N.E. ^ N. 1^ miles from the north entry of Colgrave 
sound, and N. f E. f of a mile from Hammer Ness, the north-west 
extremity of Fetlar. In a small valley in the centre of the islet are the 
ruins of a house, useful as a distinguishmg mark. It may be approached 
on all sides to a depth of 7 fathoms, or within the distance of a cable. 

vrie iiin^u^ } of a mile E. by N. ^ N. from Hammer Ness^ and S.E. ^ E. 
I of a mile from Sound Gruna, is about -| of a mile in length N. by E. 
and S. by W. Off its north point is a large rock, which is connected 
with the islet at low water. Urie Linga may be closed to the distance of 
a cable on its north, east, and west sides, but to the south and south-west 
it is foul. 

»al Island is a short distance to the south-east of Urie Linga, and East 
^ mile from Urie Ness; it is about 3 cables in length. N.E. by E. and 
S.W. by W. Three detached reefs occupy the space between Dai and 
Urie Linga, and no vessel should attempt to pass between them. 

In the vicinity of Urie Linga and Dai, vessels may stop a tide and be 
sheltei*ed from winds from East, round southerly to S.W., by bringing the 
dismantled mansion of Urie, near Urie Ness, to bear S. f W., Hammer 
Ness W. \ S. about ^ of a mile, and the north point of Urie linga N.E. ^ E. 
•^ a mile ; in this position there are 6 fathoms water and fair shelter. 

cukVTZOV is necessaiy in taking up this anchorage, not to go too far to 
the eastward, for the space between Urie Linga, Dai, and Urie Ness is 
foul, some of the rocks drying at low water. 



CHAP. II.] BLUE MULL SOUND. 43 

^RTedder Bolm is E. by N. J N. 1 J miles from the north point of Urie 
Linga, and close to the south-east part of Uya island ; the islet is small, 
and has several detached rocks upon its north-west and south-east sides, 
but its east and west sides are clear. A rocky ledge, with 3 to 5 fathoms 
upon it, extends from its south end for ^ of a mile, with 14 fathoms close 
to it to the southward ; this ledge is cleared on its west side when Hark 
Ness in Uya is open to the westward of Wedder holm, and its east side is 
cleared when the same point is to the eastward of the holm. In passing 
to the southward of it give the islet a berth of ^ a mile. The narrow 
passage between Wedder holm and Uya is sometimes frequented in 
northerly winds, as all the dangers upon the north side of it are visible ; 
it is not more than a cable wide, with a depth of 5 and 6 fathoms, and in 
using it, it is necessary to keep nearer to Uya than to Wedder holm. 

Baaf Omna is the easternmost of the islets in the sound between 
Fetlar and Unst, and is E. \ S. rather more than a mile from Wedder 
holm. It is clear at the distance of a cable on all sides. Half a mile to 
the north-west of Haaf Gruna is a rocky patch with 6 fathoms over it, 
on~which the sea in gales breaks heavily. 

Klnffa (commonly called Tell Linga, to distinguish it from Urie Linga), 
lying on 'the west side of the south entrance into Blue Mull sound, is the 
last of the islands to be noticed here. This island is nearly a mile long in 
a N. by W. and S. by E. direction, but only a cable broad. It may be 
closed north, south, and east to j^ a cable, but a rather wider berth should 
be given its west side. The passage between Liuga and Yell is named 
linga sound. 

BKirs wxttEmIm BOUITB, a strait 4 miles long and about ^ a mile wide, 
between Yell and Unst, has received its name from a bold headland on the 
Unst, or east side of the north entrance, which has generally a distinct 
bluish tinge when seen from a distance. The shores on either side the 
sound are considerably indented, though for the most part free from out- 
lying dangers ; but the tide-stream, like that of Yell, sets through at the 
rate of 6 or 7 miles per hour during springs. 

The Bolm of Boffoiana is at the eastern point of the south entrance of 
the sound, and it also bounds the west side of the West channel into Uya 
sound ; it is connected at low water with the shore of Unst, and a flat, with 
only 9 feet upon it, extends 1^ cables from its south-west point. A mile 
beyond the holm of Hogoland is the small bay of Watswick, contained 
between Hogoland point and Hogo Ness, and having near its head the 
mansion of Bellemont ; there is 5 or 6 fathoms water in it, but it is only 
frequented by boats, as the ground is rocky. The remainder of the Unst 
shore, with the holms of Wick at the entrance of the sound, are clear at the 
distance of a cable. 



44 SHETLAND. —LTINNA NESS TO THE SCAW. [chap. ii. 

The same remarks as to clearing distance apply to the Yell side of the 
sound, hut hetween Fapil Ness and Mjgge Ness upon the west side of the 
north entry, are several rocks lying out some distance from the shore, 
which it is not safe to approach nearer than ^ of a mile. 



▼oa. — On the Tell side, about 1^ miles from the north entry, 
is the small hut secure harbour, Culla voe, in which vessels often anchor 
in a depth of 4 and 5 fiftthoms, good holding ground. 

DZBBCTZOV8. — ^In passing through Blue Mull sound, keep without the 
indentations upon either side, particularly that of Fapil bay in Yell, which 
is foul, and give each point a berth of a cable. 

Hogo Ness open of Hogoland point N. by W. J W. clears the foul 
ground from the holm of Hogoland passing to the westward. 

Linga sound, the passage between Yell and Linga, is f of a mile wide 
at the narrowest part, and is .generally used in scant westerly winds. In 
passing through, keep as near mid-channel as practicable, and when 
abreast the north end of the island, Blue Mull will be observed touching 
Culla-voe Ness beaiing N.N.E. | E. ; this mark leads clear of all danger 
up to the latter point. 

If intending to anchor in Culla-voe, close Yell under Tonga head, to 
avoid the strength of the tide, and having passed it, and Hogoland point 
being shut in by Hogo Ness, steer for Culla-voe Ness, keeping Grimsetter 
bead open of Tonga head S.S.W., and the vessel in a depth of 4 to 5 
fathoms. Anchor in 5 fathoms opposite the middle of the voe, with the 
kirk near its head bearing N. by W. | W., and the extremity of Culla-voe 
Ness E. by S. ^ S. one cable. A short distance within this position the 
depth diminishes suddenly from 2^ fathoms to 4 feet. 

Hogo Ness on with Culla-voe Ness S. by W. ^ W. is the mark for 
leading through the northern portion of Blue Mull sound, and out to sea 
clear of all danger ; a course may be shaped to the northward or south- 
ward when the holms of Burrafiord appear open, and Gloup holm bears 
W. J S. 

VTA ZSKAlTD partly occupies an indenture in the sound end of Unst, 
and affords protection to a small but secure sound, with an entrance at 
either end of the island. The direction of the island is N. by W. and 
S. by E. ; its length is 1^ miles, and breadth ^ a mile. A well-built farm- 
house and buildings stand prominently on the high ground. The bold 
rocks off Hark Ness (the outermost of which is named Scarf skerry) have 
already been noticed under the head of Wedder holm ; the south-west side 
of the island is clear and bold close-to ; its north end may be neared to 
within f of a cable, or into a depth of 5 fathoms ; its ea£>tern side to one 
cable, and its sou^ end to half that distance. Near the north-east point, 
at less than ^ a cable off, is a small half-tide rock, named the Voder, and 



CHAP. n.J UYA SOUND, — ^DIRECTIONS. — ^TIDES. 45 

a bank in connection with it, that has 3^ and 4 fathoms water on it, 
extends some distance into Skuda sound. The small bays in the margin 
of Uja are all shallow, and should be avoided in working. 

VTA BOVVB is opposite the north end of Uya island, the breadth across 
from the island to the head of the sound being about | of a mile. The 
head of the sound is flat for ^ of a mile, and then suddenly deepens from 
1 to 4 fathoms ; the sides may be approached by the lead into a depth of 
5 fathoms. The sound is exposed to an uneasy swell in south-westerly 
gales, but affords fair shelter with the wind from other quarters. 

BmacTZOiTB. — In entering the West channel, the course through which 
is N.E. I E., Bruce hall, a ruined mansion on the south-east point of the 
sound, shut in upon the north point of Uya island B. by N. ^ N., clears 
the foul ground from the holm of Hogoland passing to the southward, as 
well as some shoal ground within it, which, extending from the Unst shore, 
bounds the West channel for nearly a mile. The channel available for 
vessels drawing more than 19 feet, is only a cable wide, and it is necessary 
to keep rather closer to Uya than to Unst. Having passed the island, 
steer N.E. | E. towards the head of the sound, and anchor with Skuda 
sound shut, and the north extreme of Uya island bearing S.W. J W., 
in 4 to 4^ fathoms, muddy sand. Large vessels should anchor nearer the 
island, though by doing so, they are more exposed to the swell thrown in 
through the eastern passage in south-easterly gales. 

The eastern channel, or Skuda sound, is at its entrance f of a mile wide, 
and the course through is N.W. J N., but the navigable breadth is less 
than ^ of a mile. A ledge extends } of a cable from Littlegarth point, 
which is cleared by keeping Broomhill house open of the eastern point of 
Uya sound. This house should never be lost sight of while running or 
working on the north-east side of the sound. The south end of Haaf 
Gruna, open of Twin Ness S.E. by S., clears the Voder rock off the north- 
east point of Uya island, in 3^ fathoms. Give Bruce hall point a berth 
of a cable, and having passed it, take up the anchorage as before directed* 

Uya sound is much frequented as a place of call by the passing trade, 
and by vessels employed in the deep sea fishing. 

TZBB8. — It is high water, full and change, in Uya sound at 9h. 45m. 
In the triangular space between the holm of Hogoland, the West channel, 
and the south point of Uya island, the tide-stream runs nine hours to the 
westward, and three to the eastward. 

Continuing to the northward, the eastern coast of Unst presents a broken 
and indented outline, wrecked into every variety of form by the resistless 
and constant action of the sea ; and above it, the bleak yellowish serpentine 
hills rise with a forbidding and dreary aspect. 



i/; k'-itii^LSi^. — i^zyyx yi-^ T> T= 



M ^-vr*^ ett-.^c. UL >''K-t:: ^g^^n Tna:: fruiL *n<rT cimctiaL 




Ik ficukL iv!^ vju. X^ ii£iffca» cvvr it. aid 9 to 1 S 
S.^^'. I W* 1i-<^t trt ii-i»> nr> finaul i 

froui tL«; eL-yfe ; u.i U/ cleaiT Ox^iii^ aztd Manes Baas ootBde^ or 

ia^.f.h.'^ Uj the eiktXf^'arlf Lbep Jjul^m. Xe3e> open of Balta kland 

Laui}^ yt^iiH is itte extreme poiiu to the right in the aoocHiipiiijiiig 
vieWy aud Balta i&laud the low double wimmit in the foregrouDd ; the high 




Balta lilaDd, N. } E^ 4 miles. 

precipitouH clifi*H between, form the sea iace of Nivr hill upon the north 
Hide of Ilaroldijwick bay. 

Ham NcHHy the north extremity of Ma Ness, has a ledge projecting from 
it in a N.N.E. | £. direction for the distance of 3 cables, with 4 to 4^ 
fathoitiH on it ; the Houth-east end of Haaf Gnina kept just in sight leads 
outnido it. 



lies N.E. by E. | E. } of a mile from Ham Ness, and the 
north-oast point of it is always several feet above water. The north point 
of Iliuif Oruna on with the south point of Mu Ness, leads across it. From 
the dry part, tho lodge extends S.W. ^ S. for :i of a mile, with 3 and 4 
flithoiuM wattu' over it. The south-east point of Haaf Gruna just shut 
In by Mu Nc^HH, IoimIh to tho north-west of Vere reef. Swenee Ness seen 
botW(«(Mi II una and Ilalta islands N.N.E. ^E., or Lamba Ness outside Balta 
iNlandi oloarH it piuiHing to tho south-oast. 



SSSkikir]>i tho south-westorn defence of Balta sound, and upon 
tlu> wt^Htoru Hiilo of it8 south ontry, is less than 2 cables distant from the 
nhoro of lU\Nt, (o wluoh it is nearly connected by several spits which 
t^xtoutl i\\Mx\ oiihor Hido { thoix> is accordingly no ship passage within it. 
T\\\^ *\\{\\\\ m\k\ oar«t AiiloM of tho island are very steep, and its north-east 
oud u\ay bo appinmohod to tho distauco of ^ a cable ; a berth of a cable 
^\\\^\\\\\ bo jjiNou i(« «outh*wxxjit end. 



CHAP. II.] COLVIDALB BAA. — ^VBRB REEF. — ^BALTA SOUND. 47 



ha8 a carved form, and rtms nearly in a line with the 
general shore ; it is 1^ miles long, but of varying breadth^ its sea face 
haying been much broken by the action of the waves ; at its narrowest part 
the width is not more than a cable. The highest cliff is elevated 143 feet, 
and there is a depth of 20 fathoms at the distance of -^ a cable from the 
whole of its eastern side. A rock, which dries at low water, lies ^ a cable 
from the south point, but out of the fairway channel of the south entry 
into Balta sound ; and a ledge extends from the north point nearly two- 
thirds of the way across the north entry. The west side of the island is 
low, and may be approached when turning into a depl^ of 5 fathoms, or to 
the distance of rather more than a cable. 

BAKTA Bomm,* — This harbour, the last on the eastern coast of Shet- 
land, is altogether about 2 miles long and ^ a mile wide, and is so Completely 
covered in and defended by the islands of Huna and Balta, that, from 
some distant points of view, it resemblieB a lake. The land bordering upon 
the sound is well cultivated, and sheltered by hiUs rising gradually from 
the shore ; and the mansion of Buness at the head of the harbour, is 
noted as the site where the French philosopher Biot, and Captain Kater, 
in the years 1817-18, carried on their experiments for determining in this 
high latitude the variation in the length of the vibrations of the seconds* 
pendulum. 

Properly speaking,' Balta sound is the space contained between Balta 
and Huna islands tind the shore of Unst *, and Balta harbour the western 
portion of the sound from Swenee Ness to Btiness. The width of the 
south entry into the sound, between Balta and Huna, ^^ i o^ ^ mile, and 
that of the north entry about 1^ cables f the extent of the navigable 
channel is, however, not more than J of a cable. Swenee Ness is bold to 
within the distance of J of a cable, but a rock, dry at low-water spring tides, 
lies a cable from its south-west side ; a red buoy^ in 4^ fathoms, is placed just 
outside it, with the survey caun in line with Scarpoe cottages, W. | N., 
and Swenee Ness N.E. ^ E. At the eastern extreme of the south shore of 
the harbour are four low points; the outer three have rocks extending 
from them for ^ a cable. Skoetaing, the innermost point, on which a 
storehouse stands, may be neared into a depth of 4 fathoms, or to the 
distance of | of a cable. 

Balta harbour, though -j^ a mile wide from shore to shore, has only 
a clear navigable breadth of 3 cables from a depth of 4 fathomid on either 
side. About two-thirds of the distance up, the maximum depth is 
3 fathoms, decreasing towards the head, where there is a bank of mud and 
stones. 

* See Flan of Balta sound, scale, m— 2 inches, in the Admiralty chart of the Shetland 
isles, No. 1)118 ; cdto Adsuralty plan of Balta sound, No. 116 ; scale, m s 4 inches. 



48 SHETLAND. — ^LUNNA NESS TO THE SCAW. [ciup. u. 



I. — ^The north entrance is so narrow, that it is never at- 
tempted except under tt^e guidance of a pilot. The leading mark through 
it, Mu Ness on with the east side of Huna S.W. hj S., is a distant one, 
and useless in hazy weather ; in such a case, steer direct for Swenee 
Ness, give it a berth of ^ of a cable, and then continue on to the south- 
west, passing outside the red baoy ; or should this be out of place, the 
south bluff of Nivv hill open of Swenee Ness N.E. \ N., will lead to the 
south-eastward of the rock which the buoy is intended to mark. The 
south entry is free of danger; having passed through it, anchor 
abreast the ndddle T>f Balta island in 6 or 6^ fathoms, sand, with 
Buness house on with the storehouse at Skoetaing point N.W. \ W., 
and the sea face of Niw hill on with the low north point of Balta 
island N.E. ^ N. ; this is a sheltered position, except between S.S.W.^ W. 
and S.W. i W. 

In proceeding from the sound into the harbour^ keep Voesgarth house 
at the head of the latter, shut in upon Skoetaing pointy to avoid the rock 
off the south-west side of Swenee Ness; having passed which, continue in 
about mid-channel, and anchor in 5^ fathoms, sand, with Hammer house 
N.N.E. J E., and Buness house N.W. by W. ^ W. Small vessels may 
anchor farther up in any convenient depth, a cable distant from the north- 
eastern shore. 

TZBSS. — ^It is high water, full and change, at Balta island, at 9b. 45m. 
Springs rise 6^ feet ; neaps 4-|^ feet. Neaps range 2 j feet. 

BASO&DS'WZca:. — ^This bay has its entrance, 1^ miles wide, between 
the north end of Balta island and Niw hill, from whence it runs in a 
N.N.W. direction for about If miles, having at its head a small sandy 
beach, and several houses scattered about the shore. Off the north point 
of Hagdale, about the middle of the south-west side of the bay, a rock, 
named the Baa of Hagdale, with 3 fathoms over it, lies out 1^ cables from 
the shore ; the head of the bay is fronted by a shoal flat, ^ a mile broad, 
but the north-east side of the bay is generally clear. The marks to pass 
outside Hagdale Baa, are the westernmost house on Balta island open of 
Swenee Ness S. \ W., and Greenfield house open of the south-west 
shore of the bay N. by W. \ W. This bay is unfrequented except by fishing 
vessels, owing to its exposed character and the hard nature of the bottom. 

wzw HZ&&. — The Niw hill presents to the ocean high inaccessible 
cliffs running in a N.N.E. \ E. and S.S.W. \ W. direction, from the 
summits of which the hill gradually declines to the north-west, until the 
foot of it is lost in the low land on the north side of Harolds wick and the 
west side of Norwick.* 

■ _ ■ ■■ ■ - ■ ■ L 

* The Nivv hill is composed of Serpentine rock, and Mr. Thomas observed daring 
his survey of Shetland, that in standing in closely towards it, the magnetic needle was 
attracted 6° 30' more to the westward than in the offing. 



CHAP. II.] HAROLDSWICK. — ^LAMBA NESS.— THE SCAW. 49 



c, or Northwick bay, is separated from Haroldswick by Nivv 
hill, and is about a mile wide and deep. The shores are bold to within 
the distance of -j^ a cable, and the depths decrease gradually towards the 
sandy beach at the head. The ruins of a kirk near the head of Norwick 
bay, and Niw hill, are objects by which this part of the coast may be 
recognised. 



is a small peninsula forming the north-east point of 
Norwick, and the south point of Scaw bay ; it is clear to within less 
than a cable, but it should generally have a berth of a mile, so as to 
avoid in part the cross uneasy sea which usually fronts it. A light 
upon Lamba Ness would be particularly useful in leading to Balta 
sound ; for flanking the whole eastern shore of Unst ; besides enabling 
vessels to round with more confidence this terminating portion of the 
Shetland coast. 

The BCAvr is the north-eastern extremity of Unst and of the Shetland 
group ; the holm directly off it bears N. J W. f of a mile from Lamba Ness. 
Scaw bay, between the two, is well known as a fishing station. It is only 
frequented by fishermen, who have their houses and boats near the sandy 
shore at its head. Scaw holm is surrounded by rocks above and below 
water, lying out for a short distance ; and 3 cables to the north-eastward 
of it is a reef, named the Fless of Scaw. From the west part, which is 
always above water, the reef dips to the north-east for nearly J of a mile^ 
and the whole space between it and the holm is foul. In rounding this 
danger from the southward, keep the east part of Balta island in sight 
outside Lamba Ness, until the north extremity of Herma Ness is open of 
the Noup of Burrafiord, bearing W.N.W. ; these marks will clear the reef 
^ a mile passing to the eastward and northward. At night vessels rounding 
the Scaw should avoid seeing the red light of Muckle Flugga lighthouse,, 
by keeping the white light in sight. 

BCA^ir soosT^ extending out in spring tides fi^om both Scaw and 
Lamba Ness, though not considered so dangerous as that off Sumburgh 
head, should nevertheless be carefully avoided, for even in the finest 
weather a vessel completely loses steerage way in it, and always runs the 
risk of carrying away her spars or losing her boats. 



37883. 



50 



CHAPTER III. 
SHETLAND.— SCAW TO WATTS NESS. 



Vajuation m 1876. 
BshaNesB - - 22°16'W. | Watts Neaa - - 22° 15' W. 



From Scaw to Herma Ness, the north-west point of Unst, the coast is 
composed of high inaccessible cliffs, manj of them near to the entrance of 
Burrafiord being of a stupendous character, while above them rises the 
pyramidal hill Saxavord, consisting of micaceous and talcose slate, to the 
height of 938 feet above high water ; the whole forming a well-mai*ked 
termination to this extremity of Shetland. 

The shore throughout the above extent of coast is bold-to, and may be 
approached to the distance of a cable.* 

MUUMAJPXOKn has its entrance bounded by the Noup of Burrafiord to 
the eastward, and to the westward by Herma Ness, the distance across 
being about a mile ; the fiord from thence, gradually decreasing in breadth, 
runs in south-west for 2^ miles, to a fine sandy beach at its head; the 
sides are high and bold-to within ^ a cable, and the depths decrease 
regularly from 20 fathoms at the entrance. 

As Burrafiord is open to the north-east, it is never used as an anchorage 
except in extreme cases ; when for instance, a vessel caught with the north 
of Shetland as a lee shore, and being well found in anchors and cables, has 
still the chance of being able to ride out the gale in this inlet. Entry is 
at all times easy ; and having ai-rived so far up as to have in mid-channel 
a depth of 7 fathoms, a storehouse will be observed at Fuscawick (a small 
natural harbour upon the west side) ; anchor with this building bearing 
W. by S. I S., 1^ cables from either shore. 




Burrafiord holms. Lighthouse, E. by S. | S. 2 miles. 



* See Admiralty chart of Shetland islands; No. 1,118, scale, m = 0*5 inches. Also, 
Admiralty general chart of the North sea, from the Channel to the Norway sea, No. 2,339; 
scale, d = 3 • inches. 



CHAP.m.] BURRAFIOED; holms. — FLIGHT, — REFUGE. 51 



I. — ^A group of holms, stacks, and skerries, called 
collectively the holms of Burrafiord, extend in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. 
direction for a mile from a short distance outside the western point of 
Herma Ness. The northernmost of the group, the Out stack, (the extreme 
northern point of the British isles,) is a bare pointed rock, bold and clear 
close-to, and is frequented by myriads of sea-fowl. 

The Out stack and Muckle Flugga are to the left, and Herma Ness at 
the extreme right, in the view ; the remainder of the holms, forming 
nearly one mass with Muckle Flugga, are Little Flugga, Cliff skerry, Tupsta 
skerry, Vesta skerry, and Ruskick. 

Vessels may pass, if necessary, between the Out stack and the holms, or 
between the holms and Herma Ness, remembering, in the latter case, to 
give the east and south sides of the holms a berth of a cable, and to keep 
the Noup of Burrafiord open of Herma Ness, to avoid a reef which 
projects from the western point of the latter 'half-way across the channel. 

From Herma Ness to Gloup holm, the course and distance are 
W.S.W. 9 miles ; to. the outermost of the Ramna stacks W. by S. | S. 
] 6 J miles ; and to Uya Baas W. by S. J S. (southerly) 19| miles. 

The western shores of Unst do not possess a single harbour or even an 
inlet requiring description here. From Herma Ness to Flubers Gardie, the 
coast is composed of high bold cliffs, overtopped by the summits of several 
hills ; south of Flubers Gardie to Blue Mull sound the cliffs are lower, but 
a high background rises immediately from them. 

KZOBT. — The North Unst lighthouse is situated on the summit of 
Muckle Flugga, the outermost of the Burrafiord holms, which is W.N.W. J N. 
and separated by a clear channel 3 cables wide from the Out stack ; the 
building is painted white, and exhibits at an elevation of 230 feet above 
high water, a fixed white light, excepting between N.N.W. \ W. and 
N.W. by W. \ W. towards the Scaw of Unst, in which direction it is red. 
The light should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 21 miles. 
In rounding Scaw of Unst keep the white light always in sight. 



I. — Should a vessel become embayed in a north-westerly or 
northerly gale between Herma Ness and Gloup holm, the north-west 
extremity of Yell, she must bear up for Culla voe in Blue Mull sound. 
The mouth of Blue Mull sound, between the Mull head and the low land 
of Papil Ness, always shows distinctly ; and having entered the sound, 
Culla- voe Ness will be observed upon the western side 1^ miles distant. 
Directions for using Culla voe have already been given (page 44), but 
failing to reach it from the strength of wind or other cause, proceed 
through the passage to Uya sound, or other of the sheltered anchorages 
upon the eastern side of the islands. 

D 2 



52 SHETLAND. — ^SCAW TO WATTS NESS- [chap. ni. 

o&on VOB ana so&ic< — The north coast of Yell is considerahljr in- 
dented, and Outsta and Gloup Nesses stand boldly forward ; though gene- 
rallj clear of outlying dangers, it should have a berth of at least ^ a mile, 
on account of the strong tide-stream which sweeps past it to and from Blue 
Mull sound* Gloup voe, 2^ miles from the month of the sound, and a 
mile from the north-west comer of Yell, is a considerable fishing station 
owing to its favourable situation with respect to the deep sea ; but as at 
low water it dries across about half- way up, and a heavy sea rolls into it 
in northerly and north-easterly gales, no vessel should enter it. Gloup 
holm, a high bold rock, and a well-marked object from every side, should 
have a berth of at least ^ a mile given it. From it the outermost Bamna 
stack bears W. by S. \ S. 7 J miles, and Uya Baas W. by S. 11 miles. 

The island of Yell is composed of long parallel ridges of gneiss rock of 
a heavy uniform course from south-west to north-east, and sloping gra- 
dually towards the shore. Upon the western coast to the southward of 
the Gloup, are cliffs of moderate height, backed by rounded hills as far as 
Whalefirth voe; from whence, to Graveland Noup, a series of high pre- 
cipitous cliffs, having at their base several remarkable pinnacled stacks, 
bound one side of the north entry to Yell sound. The whole of the 
western shore of Yell is bold-to ; but, except in off-shore winds, a good 
berth should be given to it on account of the heavy swell which is gene- 
rally setting home upon this side of Shetland, and also to have Blue Mull 
and Yell sounds well under the lee, and available in case of a sudden gale 
occurring, an event not unfrequent in this variable climate. Just within 
Graveland Ness, the northern point of the noup, is Whalefirth voe ; this 
inlet, of a narrow serpentine form, is never used by shipping, on account 
of the difficulty of egress, and the close vicinity of Yell sound with its safe 
harbours. 



U or Feideland point, the north-east extremity of Main- 
land, and the western boundary of the north entrance into Yell sound, is a 
peninsula f of a mile in length, united to the mainland by a low isthmus 
J of a cable broad, on which stands a small white house and several 
adjoining huts. In a small bay formed by this peninsula and a point to 
the southward of it, is an important fishiDg station, but the inlet only affords 
protection for boats. The north-west and south-east sides of Fethaland 
point are foul for the distance of a cable, and N. by W. J of a mile from 
its extremity is a patcli of rocks, named the Skate, which dries at low 
water. 



STACKS and GRBBIT BOKM, lying out a mile to the north- 
eastward of Fethaland point, are evidently the wreckage of one island, for 
they are all nearly of the same character, and rest upon one rocky base ; 



CHAP. III.] GliOTJP VOE AND HOLM. — RAMNA STACKS, &C. 53 

indeed, it is probable that, at a remote period, they formed part of the maiu- 




Ranma stacks, S.E. by E. 4 E. 2 miles. 

land. Green holm, the south-easternmost of the cluster, differing from the 
others only in its superior size and the scanty pasture which covers its 
summit, is about 2 cables in extent in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction. 
Shelving rocks extend from its south-east point for ^ a cable, and several 
rocks above water upon its west side effectually close the channel between 
the holm and the stacks. The stacks, consisting of eight distinct rocks, 
five of which are of considerable size, extend north for nearly f of a mile 
from Green holm, and, excepting to the southward, are bold -to. 

The channel between Fethaland point and Green holm, ^ a mile wide, 
and named Gruna sound, though not commonly used except by native 
vessels, is available in scant southerly winds to those working into Yell 
sound from the westward. In passing through, keep within from 2 to 3 
cables of Green holm, and when Stour holm is well open to the eastward 
of Fethaland point, the rocks of the latter will have been cleared, and Yell 
sound is open. 

CAUTZoir. — As in north-westerly gales there is always a heavy sea in 
the mouth of Yell sound during the ebb, and particularly in the vicinity of 
the Ramna stacks, vessels should, if practicable, lie off, and not attempt to 
enter until the turn of the stream. 

SAXTB VOB, at the head of the bay between Fethaland point and Uya 
island, is only used by vessels drawing less than 12 feet of water; for 
though there is good riding in it in off-shore winds, and a depth varying 
from 4 to 12 fathoms, yet it affords no shelter in north-west«rly gales, 
which blow directly in. Small vessels, however, by anchoring close over 
upon the western side in 2 or 3 fathoms, opposite the first opening which 
occurs with a water-mill close to the beach at its head, will be nearly 
land-locked. 

XTTA, ZSKAITB and BAAS. — Uya island is W. by S. ^ S 4^ miles from 
the northernmost Ramna stack ; its west and south-west sides are bounded 
by cliffs with several high rocks fronting them, from whence the surface 
declines in height to the eastward. At low water, the island is joined by 
a stony bank to Mainland. Uya Baas are some dangerous sunken reefs, 
N.E. J E., a mile from the west point of Uya island, forming an advanced 
point beyond the general line of coast. Some of the rocks appear at low 
water, and a portion of another ledge between the Baas and the island, is 
always visible. 



54 SHETLAND. — 8CAW TO WATTS NESS. [chat. 

To clear Uja Baas, north-east side, keep the north-east cliff of Grarelanci 
Noup open to the northward of Green holm E.S.E. ^ S. ; and to cleax* 





Point of the Burr and Foola open of Ockren Head, 8.W. by W. 

their north-west side, keep the point of the Borr open of Ockren head 
S.W. by W. In very clear weather, the high land of Foula will also be 
seen at the same time, over the point of the Barr. Both these dearixig 
marks are distant, and in hazy weather indistinct ; when they are not 
visible, Uya Baas will be cleared by keeping Green holm to the southward 
of S.E. by E. ^ E., until the highest part of Uya island is to the eastward 
of S. i E. 



BIXA. — South-westward of Uya island, towards Bona voe, the 
coast continues to present high cliffs of red granite, gradually increasing 
in height towards the voe, and above them rises the massive barren 
crest of Ronas hill to 1,476 feet above high water. This, the highest 
land in Shetland, may in a clear day be seen from nearly every portion of 
the group. 



▼OB has its entrance between the north-east fall of Ockren head 
and the craggy west base of Bonas hill^ a passage § of a mile wide, and 
from 18 to 20 fathoms deep; it is also nearly clear ^f obstructions, only a 
few detached rocks lying out. From the entrance, the voe runs S.S.W. 
for a mile; then S.S.E. for 2^ miles, to where it is only 230 yards broad; 
it then widens, and winds with a more easterly direction for another 
IJ miles to the head. The only portions of the voe where there is 
moderate depth for anchorage are abreast a small rocky point upon the 
east side where the voe begins to turn ; here there are from 7 to 10 fathoms, 
and a little below the narrows there are also from 10 to 12 fathoms ; but 
with these exceptions, the general depths are from 15 to 17 fathoms to 
nearly up to the head of the voe. 

Generally speaking, Bona voe is not used by shipping, for the con- 
tiguous high land renders it extremely subject to violent flaws of wind 
and calms, thus endangering a vessel's safety either by the loss of spars, 
or by the swell setting her ashore ; but should a vessel from stress of 
weather be unable to clear the land on either tack, and so obtain shelter 
in Yell sound or Hillswick, then the only alterniative is to bear up for 
Bona voe. Bonas hill, and the remarkable insulated rock Ossa skerry, 
a short distance to the westward, are features which sufficiently point out 
the position of the entrance to the voe. In running in, keep as near mid- 
channel as practicable, and having arrived so far up as to have obtained 




CHAP, m.] TJTA ISLAND AND BAAS. — ST. MAGNUS BAY. 55 

shelter, then anchor as convenient. The whole of the north-east side of 
the voe is clean, and may be approached to the distance of a cable, but 
upon the south-west side f of a mile below the narrows, is a point from 
which a flat extends midway across the voe, and it is necessaiy when 
abreast it to keep the opposite shore aboard. Smooth water will generally 
be found at the anchorage just below the narrows, and it is advisable not 
to go above this position, to avoid increasing the difficulties in quitting 
the voe. 

OB8A SXB&R'B' is W.N.W. i N. IJ miles from the north-west part of 

Ockren head. This insulated rock, not 
unlike the Bass from some points of 
view, consists of two portions, separated 
by a deep and narrow chasm, that to the 

Ossa skerry, S.W. i S. 2 mUes. "orthward being the larger and higher 

of the two. On the west side of the 
smaller mass^ at a distance of -j^ a cable, is a small rock always showing 
above water ; with this exception, the skerry is steep-to. 

BAMirA VOB is at the head of a smaU bay 2 miles to the south-west of 
Ockren head, and immediately upon the north-east side of the point of 
the Burr. Its entrance, which bears from Ossa skerry S. by W. 2J miles, 
lies nearly north and south, and is 70 yards in width ; it opens into a basin 
(as the name betokens) with a depth of 5 to 7 fathoms, barred by a flat 
with only 3 fathoms on it. 

This voe is used by the native vessels, but it should not be entered by 
others, except under the charge of an experienced pilot. 

From Ockren head to Esha Ness and skerry, the coast is cliffy ; the 
former projection being dark, nearly perpendicular, and with several 

distinct heads, which open out from 
various points of view. From the 
point of the Burr to the south-west, 
the coast has been much worn and 

Esha Ness skerry, S. by W.fW. 2 mUes. indented by the sea, while in many 

instances, deep caves have been formed 
in the base of the dark precipitous cliffs. Nearly a mile to the southward 
of the point of the Burr, a rock, showing only at low water, lies out at 
the distance of a cable from the shore, and from Esha Ness there are 
others which dry out for nearly 2 cables ; but Eshaness skerry, which is of 
the same character as the neighbouring cliffs, is bold- to, and may be 
approached on its south-west side to half a cable. 

ST. MAOinrs BAT has its north-eastern boundary in Eshaness skerry, 
and its south-western in the Ve skerries and Papa Stour island, and is 




66 SHETLAND.— 8CAW TO WAITS NESS. [chip. xxi. 

aItogethi;r about S miles widet and deep. The entire coast of this bttj is 
much broken and varied by rugged points and rocks, bays and voes ; and 
as several of the latter ore fortunately available and easily recognised, the 
danger from being embayed in this deep bight b materially lessened. 
When the land has once been clearly made out, there is no difficult; in 
obtaining shelter in one or other of the harbours opening into St. Magnus 
bay. 

TXSSB. — Off this portion of the coast it is high water, full and change, 
at 8h. dOm. ; common springs rise 6 f«et 7 inches, and ueapB range 3 feet 
5 inches. 

From Eshaness skerry to Uillswick Ness, the largest of the indentations 
are the bays of Braewick and Sandwick ; but tbey are open and exposed, 
and are never entered except for some special and temporary purpose. 
The whole of this section of coast is foul, with outlying rocks for some 
distance off, and no stranger should attempt to close it. In this same 
district are the following two remarkable features which serve to dis- 
tinguish it in hazy weather. 

HOOK BOKiK. lying S.E. by 
£ ^ E. j of a mile from the 
south point of Eshaness skerry, 
is the first of these features. 
This islet, with dark perpen- 
dicular sides and a sward-covered 
summit, has a flying buttress, as 
it were to the north-west, forming a beautiful arch 70 feet high ; besides 
which, the holm is completely perforated by a cavernous passage, the 
south-east outlet appearing at a distance like a dark doorway, and hence 
its name. The holm is foul upon its north side, bat in all other directions 
it may be approached closely. 

Tiie BMMOSt the other feature of a marked character, is a cluster of tall 
red granite rocka standing in the sea, like 
the remains of a gigantic building, a mile 
N.W. I N. from Hillswick Ness. The 
entire space between Waterhouse holm and 
the Drongs is foul ; and as a reef also 
The Drongs, North 2 miles. extends from the hitter to the southward 
for 2 cables, they shoold have a berth given them of at least ^ a mile. 

BI&UBWIOK*, or irsiB rxXTB, is a harbour easy of access and wilh 
excellent shelter, upon the north-east side of St. Magnus bay, Hillswick 

* See PloD of Hillswick, scale, m ^ 2 inches, on Admiralty chart of the Shetland 
iilanas,Ko. 1,118. 



Door holm, N.N.E. } E. 1 miJe. 




CHAP. III.] HILLSWICK, OB TIRIE FIRTH. 57 

Ness upon the west side of the entrance, is S.E. ^ E. 4 miles from Eshaness 
skerrjr, from whence, the firth runs in nearly direct for 2^ miles to its heady 
above which, on the brow of the low hUl, is a slated mansion named Urie 
firth house. At the entrance the breadth is nearly | of a mile ; near the 
head the breadth is ^ a mile, from whence a fiat extends ofi for nearly -^ a 
mile, with 4 fathoms on its outer edge. About half-way along the north- 
western shore is the small bay of Hillswick, in which is the usual anchorage ; 
at its head is the kirk of St. Magnus, and several superior houses. 

Off the south point of Hillswick Ness, at the distance of rather more 
than a cable, is a small pinnacle rock, which appears only at low spring 
tides, with 12 fathoms close around it. There is also a sunken patch 
with 10 fathoms on it, and 16 and 18 fathoms close to it, lying out 
S. W. by W. nearly a mile from Hillswick Ness, on which the sea breaks in 
gales. 

In entering Hillswick, give Hillswick Ness a berth of ^ of a mile to avoid 
the rock off it, which is also cleared to the eastward while Urie-firth house 
is shut in by the land to the southward of it. In running up, both shores 
are bold and may be closed to the depth of 8 fathoms, or to the distance of 
^ a cable. The south-east point of Hillswick bay tails off for some distance 
and must be avoided ; having passed it, anchor near the middle of the bay 
in 7 or 7^ fathoms, with Hillswick house bearing N.W.^ N., and the south- 
east point of the bay in one with the south-east extremity of Hillswick 
Ness S.W. ^ S. In this position there is excellent shelter in all on-shore 
gales. 

TIDB8. — ^It is high water, full and change, in Hillswick firth at 9h. 45m. 
Springs rise 6^ feet, neaps 5 feet. 

BA.1IKMC8S VOB, a Small inlet, has its mouth a little below Hillswick 
bay upon the opposite shore, and ^ of a mile within Hammer Ness. At 
its entrance, the voe is little more than a cable wide, but it quickly 
increases to double that breadth, with a depth gradually shoaling from 
10 to 7 and 6 fathoms, and there are 3 and 2 fathoms nearly up to the 
head. Both shores are bold close to, and the voe being landlocked^ affords 
shelter from every gale. 

Upon the south side of Red head, which is the eastern boundary of the 
entrance to Hillswick, is Gunnester voe, with Gunnester island covering 
it in, but as strong winds from the westward cause the sea to break right 
across the approach, it is unused by vessel or boat. Immediately to the 
southward of Gunnester island, are Nibon island and Swarta skerry, 
which, with the coast to the southward of them, are steep-to. 

MAOWSSBTTsa VOB, the next inlet, is rather more than 2 miles from 
Gunnester voe ; the entrance into it, between Long head and the peninsula 



1 



58 SHETLAND. — 8CAW TO TVATTS NBS8. [cHAP.m. 

€i Islesbargb, is nudnlj occupied by tbe iaUndii of Egilaha : passiiig sontli 
of these islands, the entrance becomes Tisible, but this is still further 
obstmcted bj a rock, always above water, leaving between itself and 
Islesbnigh Ness an available channel 1^ cables broad, with not less than 
5 fathoms in it Within the entrance, the voe tarns to the eastward and 
south-east, with sufficient depth and protection, but it is valueless in 
westerly gales when shelter is required, as a vessel would have to go too 
close down upon a lee-shore to obtain entry. 

At the head of a small voe to the southward of the peninsula of Isles- 
burgh, is the narrow isthmus already alluded to in the description of Sulem 
voe ; this contracted neck, only 100 yards across, is an invaluable boon 
to the fishermen, who, by dragging their boats over it, effect a saving of 
40 miles in distance, and avoid a dangerous passage round North Mavine. 

Booa 0Oinn>, is the narrow channel between the island Muckle Booe 
and the shore of Mainland, and though it is not a ship passage, it affords 
fair shelter under common circumstances, and might be useful in a case of 
emergency. Its entrance, S. } E. 1| miles from Long head, is partially 
obstmcted by the Lothian rock nearly in mid-channe], with an extension 
from it to the S.S.E. for the distance of a cable. The position of this 
danger is always shown by the breakers upon it when the voe is required 
for shelter, and on either side of it there is a clear channel 1-^ cables wide. 
From the Lothian, the sound runs in S. by E. f E. for 1^ miles, and then 
S.E. ^ S. for ^ a mile to Busta voe ; but here the passage is obstructed by 
a sandy ridge which dries across it at low-water springs. 

Booe sound should never be attempted in westerly gales, except from 
absolute necessity, as for instance, in the case of a vessel becoming em- 
bayed between Long head and Muckle Rooe, when entrance into this 
sound affords the sole means of saving life and property. In closing, 
steer for the north point of Muckle Rooe, giving it a berth of at least 
2 cables to avoid a sunken rock Ijing off it, and having distinguished the 
breakers upon the Lothian rock, steer so as to pass midway between them 
and the shore of Muckle Rooe, and anchor in mid-channel a couple of 
cables within the Lothian, in 8 fathoms, sand. Vessels drawing less than 
14 feet will obtain better shelter by running ^ a mile farther in, until 
nearly abreast three cottages upon the western side, where, in mid- 
channel, there is a depth of 4 and 4^ fathoms, sand. 

An islet near the inner end of the sound, has some beds of excellent 
native oysters about it. 

Miroxiaa Rooa. — This island is easily distinguished in the approach 
from the land on either side of it by its well marked geological structure. 
The whole of its sea boundary consists of cliffs of considerable height, and 
of a red colour, as its name implies; while above them are numerous 



CHAP.m.] SWARBUCK MIN. — BUSTA VOE. 59 

barren red hill-tops with scarcely a particle of vegetation upon them. 
The cultivated part of the island is upon the eastern or opposite side, 
where also the inhabitants reside. The whole of the sea-face of . the 
island is bold-to, and may be approached closely. 



r, a bold, well-marked, and clear passage between 
the south-west side of Muckle Booe and Swarbuok . head, is the common 
channel of approach to several excellent harbours lying within it. 
Between Stem or Strom Ness, the south-west point of Muckle Rooe, and 
Swarbuck head, (so named from its being the resort of the swarta, or 
black-backed gull,) the passage is rather more than ^ a mile in width ; it 
then extends to the south-east for 2 miles, and increases in breadth to a 
mile, when it is divided by Little Papa island into two channels which 
lead towards the voes to the northward and southward. This noble 
entrance has bold shores on each side, and depths of from SO to 59 fathoms 
water in it. 

Swarbuck Min is S. by E. 9 miles from Esha Ness skerry ; S.E. by E. 
10]^ miles from the north-easternmost of the Ye skerries ; and E.S.E. 
8 miles from Bordie, the north-west point of Papa Stour island. 

No special directions are needed for using Swarbuck Min. A north- 
west wind blows directly into Magnus bay, and assuming a vessel in 
a gale from that quarter to be off Esha Ness and requiring shelter, then, 
the most convenient harbour of refdge for her will be Hills wick; but 
should she be near the Ye skerries or Papa Stour, then she should bear 
up for Swarbuck Min, taking a departure from some part of Papa Stour, 
for though the Min is well marked and the distance to it short, yet misty 
weather, to which the islands are constantly subject, renders it difficult 
to distinguish objects until close to them. Having entered the Min, 
a course may then be shaped to any of the numerous anchorages 
within. 

The various voes and other anchorages within Swarbuck Min, beginning 
with the northernmost, are as follow. In all of them a vessel is land- 
locked. 

muBTA. voa is contained between Muckle Rooe to the westward, and 
the shore of Mainland and the island of Linga to the eastward ; a narrow 
isthmus, only 3 cables broad, separates its head from the head of Sulem 
voe. The general direction of Busta voe is north-east and south-west, 
2^ miles long, and about -j^ a mile average width ; its shores are clear, 
and may be approached to the distance of a cable ; the depths in it vary 
from 7 to 20 fathoms. On the shore J a mile above the inner end of 
Booe sound is Busta, a substantial mansion surrounded by gardens and 
moderate-sized trees. It has a small pier and landing-place. 



60 SHETLAND. — 80AW TO WATTS NESS. [chap. ra. 

Having passed throagh Swarbuck Mln^ a vessel has only to follow the 
shore of Muckle Rooe within a distance of 2 cables, and it will lead her 
into Bosta voe. Anchorage may be taken up in any part of the voe, but 
the usual berth is in mid-channel within ^ a mile of the head, in 12 or 
13 fathoms, with Busta house bearing W. \ S. 

O&VA nmTB is an inlet within the shore of Mainland* opposite the 
centre of Muckle Booe, its entrance between Grob Ness and Wethesta 
NesSy being covered in by the island of Linga. The northern approach, 
between Linga and Hevden Ness, is intricate, and obstructed by a rock 
named the Groin Baa, with only 9 feet on it ; but the south channel is 
clear, and the one generally used. The firth is 3 miles in length, running 
in an E.S.E. direction for 1^ miles, and then S.S.E. to the head ; | of a 
mile fix)m which, the shores converge so much as to leave only an available 
breadth of f of a cable. Near the head is Olna firth kirk, several sub- 
stantial houses, and numerous untenanted and roofless cottages. The road 
from Lerwick to North Mavine skirts the northern shore. Over the 
lower portion of the firth is an average depth of 18 fathoms; in the 
narrows 7 fathoms ; the depths then gradually decrease towards the 
head. 

A rock lies out some distance from the south side nearly a mile within 
Grob Ness ; with this exception, the shores of the firth are clear of danger, 
and may be closed in running or working to a fair berth. This harbour 
is unfrequented except by native vessels. 

GOvmtTB VOB is another inlet of Mainland abreast the south end. of 
Muckle Rooe, and is covered in to some extent by the island Linga. The 
voe is I of a mile deep, and ^ of a mile wide, with plain and clean shores, 
and a depth decreasing from 25 &thoms at the entrance to 5 fathoms, the 
latter being within a cable of the head. 

When this voe is used by vessels, which is seldom the case, they anchor 
in mid-channel half-way up, in a depth of 9 or 10 fathoms, sand. 

KXTTXiB VAPA BOUiTB is between the shore of Mainland, and the 
south-east side of Little Papa, the island which lies across the inner part 
of Swarbuck Min. The sound is about a mile in extent north-east and 
south-west. The north-east entry is not more than a cable across, with 
a depth of 4^ fathoms in it, but the south-west entry, between Selie 
Ness and the shore of the island, is 3 cables wide, and 8 and 10 fathoms 
deep. 

In proceeding to Little Papa sound, it is necessary to pass round the 
south end of Little Papa island, which is bold-to, and having passed 
Selie Ness not nearer than a cable, or with the west extreme of Linga 
island shut in upon the east point of Little Papa island (on which stands 



I 

%' 



CHAP.ni.] LITTLE PAPA SOUND. 61 

a house), anchorage may be taken up in the middle of the sound in 9 or 

10 fathoms. 

In southerly winds, a vessel may quit the sound by the north-east 
entry ; in doing so, she must keep nearer to Mainland than to the low- 
point of the island on which the house stands, for the point is fronted by 
a spit extending for a cable. 

AXTB VOB extends 2 miles into Mainland south of Little Papa island, 
with an average breadth of rather more than ^ a mile. It is the anchorage 
generally preferred when the wind is to the northward of north-west, as 
Busta voe is with the wind to the southward of the same quarter. Aith 
voe has no hidden danger in its approach, or lying out from its sides, and 
the latter may be closed in working into 7 fathoms, or within the distance 
of a cable. 

Having proceeded through, and ^ of a mile beyond the passage between 
Little Papa island and Aith Ness, the voe will then be open. About f of 
a mile within the entry and upon the western shore, is the small bay of 
Braewick, having on its south side the house of Braewick. The usual 
anchorage is in 14 fathoms, mud, with the house bearing W. J S., and the 
south-west side of Little Papa island, shut in by the south-east part of Aith 
Ness ; but if preferred, a berth may be taken up in mid-channel, within 
i of a mile of the head of the voe, in a depth of 8 fathoms. 

VZMBVTRT xsXiAxro, forming the south-west side of Swarbuck Min, 
is in form an irregular triangle, with shores deeply worn and indented, and 
its surface is varied by small lakes and hillocks, the highest of which, the 
Ward of Vementry upon the eastern side of the island, has a cairn on its 
summit. The island from point to point along its eastei-n and western 
shores is bold- to, and its southern side, which is low, and faces Mainland 
from Braga Ness to Sonso Ness, is separated from it by a narrow channel 
named Uya sound, about the middle of which, there is only a narrow boat 
channel with 3 feet in it at low water. It is altogether unfit for the use 
of a square-rigged vessel. 

vzucamniT souitb. — Vementr]'' island is the eastern boundary of 
Vementry sound, a common channel, like that of Swarbuck Min, to several 
voes lying within it. No vessel requiring refuge should prefer Vementry 
sound to Swarbuck Min, for it has not so clearly marked an opening as 
the latter, and its entrance is besides obstructed by several sunken rocks ; 
but in case of a vessel being caught in a sudden on-shore gale in the bight 
between Swarbuck head and the coast to the westward of it, or having 
under similar circumstances mistaken Vementry sound for Swarbuck Min, 
then she has no other resource than to bear up and enter the fonner. 

Vementry sound is 1^ miles from Swarbuck Min, and is the first open- 
ing seen to the westward of Swarbuck head. It is bouiided to the west- 



62 SHETLAKB. — SCAW TO WATTS NESS. [chap. ra. 

ward bj the Neing of Brindaster ; to the southward by Nounsbroogh Ness ; 
to the eastward by Yementry island, and is occupied by several islets and 
rocks. 

BTouftA BAA, less than ^ a mile outside the entrance of the sound, 
with only 13 feet upon it, is N. by E. f E. ^ a inile from the high bold 
diff the Neing of Brindaster, and N.W. by W. i W. ^ a mile from the 
north-west point of Vementry island. An outer patch, Stoura reef, lies 
N. by E. 2 cables from Stoura Baa, but it has 6^ fathoms upon it, and is 
dangerous only in gales. Two cables within Stoura Baa, and nearly in the 
middle of the entrance to the sound, is the Black rock, which is small, 
bold-to, and always above water. 

Just within the entrance of Vementry sound, but rather over on the 
Vementry side, is Gruna island, which has been wasted into several por- 
tions by the sea ; it is clear on all sides to ^ a cable. The next island 
is Linga, lying obliquely across the middle of the sound j^ of a mile within 
Gruna ; several rocks showing above water lie out from its north-east and 
south-east sides ; the north-west end of the island is bold-to, but with this 
exception, it should have a berth of J of a cable. 

voBS in VBMaiTTBT BOJm. — Several voes diverge from the head 
of Vementry sound ; two of these, North and South Clousta voes, run in a 
south-easterly direction, and have a common entrance between Hale head, 
the south-west extremity of Vementry island, and the north-east side of 
Nounsbrough Ness. This entrance is obstructed by the Icelanders, a 
detached reef lying out J of a cable from the west side of Hale head, with 
some of the rocks always above water; and also by a ledge projecting 
li cables from the north-east point of Nounsbrough Ness, with 3 feet only 
at its extremity. The navigable channel between is only ^ a cable wide. 
Onifirth voe runs in S. by W. for 2 miles from the head of Vementry sound ; 
its entrance, only rather more than ^ a cable wide, being between the 
north-west point of Nounsbrough Ness, and the shore of Brindaster ; the 
contracted portion is not more than 2 cables long, but a short distance 
within the narrows and a little above Brindaster house, is a rock always 
above water. A few detached rocks also lie near the western shore ; the 
east side is clear, but the voe is altogether too narrow in the upper portion 
to be used by any but small fore-and-aft vessels. 

BiHBCTXOWS. — Being under the necessity of using Vementry sound, 
close the entrance with the east part of the Neing of Brindaster bearing 
S i E. and having arrived within ^ a mile of it, keep in mid-channel 
between the Black rock and Gruna to the north-east, and the Neing and 
the rocks lying off it to the south-west ; continue on more south-easterly 
between Gruna and Linga, and then south-westerly between Linga and 
Vementry, to the head of the sound. 



CHAP. III.] VOES IN VEMENTRY SOUND.— DIRECTIONS. 63 

Proceeding from the head of the sound towards the Clouster voes, keep 
near to the Icelanders, gradually hauling round them and closing the shore 
of Hale head to avoid the ledge from Nounsbrough Ness ; and haying 
advanced so far in as to have Linga island shut in by Hale head, the 
water will be smooth, and safe anchorage may be taken up in any con- 
venient depth in Uya sound, or in either of the Clouster voes. 

To enter Onifirth voe, keep in mid-channel through the narrows, and 
then haul short round to the eastward, and anchor in 7 fathoms between 
the north-west point of Nounsbrough Ness, and the high-water rock 
already described. 

BmutiLFZATB BOiaM, a mile to the westward of the Neing of 
Brindaster, is surrounded by detached rocks and has a clifiTy margin, from 
which the surface rises towards the centre of the islet. The rocks off the 
Neing of Brindaster, Burrafirth holm, and the intermediate coast, should 
have a berth of ^ a mile. 

'WVBT BVRRJLFZ&TB and siTA&SA voBS. — Upon the west side of 
a bay to the westward of Burrafirth holm is the peninsula of Snarra Ness, 
between the entrances to West Burrafirth and Snarra voes ; it is con- 
nected with the main by a narrow neck only 40 yards broad, with Snarra 
house standing at the north end of the isthmus. SnaiTa Ness is foul upon 
its north and east sides. Off* the northern point is a sunken rock with 
13 feet upon it, lying out nearly 2 cables, and off the lowest part of the 
east side of the ness is another rock, which dries at low-water springs, 
^ a cable from the shore. 

West Burrafirth voe runs in south-easterly a mile from Snarra Ness, 
and receives protection from the south-west part of Burrafirth Ness, and 
some rocks extending from it to the north-west. Three of these rocks 
are always visible ; the two outermost being close together and steep-to. 
Half a mile within them the voe is contracted to ^ a cable in breadth, 
but it expands again to a size sufi^cient for the accommodation of a 
number of small vessels. The shores upon either side have no outlying 
dangers. 

Snarra voe is immediately upon the west side of Snarra Ness ; it runs 
in a straight direction, is clear of danger, and the sides may be closed to 
^ a cable. 

szBBCTZOirB. — Snarra voe should be preferred to West Burrafirth voe, 
for northerly winds send a heavy ground swell into the latter, and the 
bottom is sand. Snarra voe is more protected, and the ground is excellent 
for holding. In closing Snarra Ness, the rock with 13 feet upon it off the 
north point is cleared on its north side by keeping the Noup of Norbie, 
a high remarkable cliff a couple of miles to the westward, open of the 



64 SHETLAND. — SCAW TO WATTS NESS. [chap.ih. 

extremitj of the Broagh of Ness ; a vessel is to the westward of it while 
Snarra voe is kept open, and to the eastward of it^ when the east extreme 
of Snarra Ness is to the westward of South. To enter West Bnrrafirth 
voOy keep in mid-channel between Snarra Ness and the rocks already 
described, and also through the narrows. A quarter mile above the latter, 
anchor rather towards the western shore in 6 or 7 fathoms. In entering 
Snarra voe, close the western shore so far as to have the voe open ; con- 
tinue on in mid-channel, and when Soarra house on the low isthmus 
appears in sight, haul to the eastward, shut in the Brough of Ness by 
the south-west part of Snarra Ness, and anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms, muddy 
bottom. 

A sunken rock, the Baa of Oxafirth, with 12 feet over it, lies out 
2 cables from the Brough of Ness. This danger is cleared passing to 
the eastward, by keeping the east side of the Brough of Ness to the 
westward of South, and to the northward, by keeping Melby house, 
standing upon the south shore of Papa sound, open of the Noup of 
Norbie. 

VAVA BTomi. — This island, only inferior in size to that of Muckle 
Booe, is opposite the north-west extremity of Mainland between the Noup 
of Norbie and Sand Ness ; it is 2^ miles long north-west and south-east, 
and about 2 miles wide ; its sides are much indented, and many portions 
have become detached, from the constant action of the sea. Four of the 
largest inlets are named respectively CuUa, Olas, Housa, and Hamna voes, 
but as they are merely small sloop or boat harbours, and are all difficult of 
entrance, they require no further notice. 

The boundaries of Papa Stour are generally precipitous ; to the north- 
west are several bold cliffs, among which Bordie and the Horn of Papa 
are the most remarkable, the summit of the latter resembling in shape the 
horn of the rhinoceros : these, with Fugloe and Leera skerries close-to, 
are sufficient to distinguish Papa Stour from the neighbouring coast. 
In sailing about the island (except upon the south-east side) it is only 
necessary to give each point a berth of a couple of cables to pass outside 
all the sunken dimgers. 



\, lying outside Papa Stour, form the extreme western 
point of the Shetland group, and were it not that several of the rocks are 
always above water and visible at a moderate distance, they would be 




Ye skerries, S. ^ E. 2 miles. 



CHAP.m.] PAPA STOUR. — PAPA SOUND. 66 

exceedinglj dangerous. In the above view, the Bkerries are seen open 
of and on with Dale Ness, while the two bold islets to the left are Fugloe, 
and Leera skerries. 

The Ve skerries occupy altogether a space f of a mile long in a 
N.E. bj E. and S. W. hj W. direction ; the skerrj nearest to the south-west 
end of the reef is the highest, being about 30 feet above high water, and 
about a cable in extent. The north-east skeny Is 20 feet high ; between 
the two are narrower ridges of rock, several of which are always above 
water. The south-west skerry bears S.W. by W. 12| miles from Ossa 
skerry, W.S.W. 8^ miles from Eshaness skerry, N.N.W. J W. 3 miles from 
Fugloe skerry, N. J W. 9 miles from Watts Ness, and N.E. J E. 17 miles 
from the south point of Foula. 

The sea in heavy gales makes a clear breach over the whole of these 
rocks, and it is then difficult to distinguish them amidst the broken water ; 
but in dear and moderate weather, the south-west skerry is visible at the 
distance of 4 miles. In the summer months, they are often visited by 
parties to shoot the numerous seals which frequent them at that season. 



—No vessel should go within | a mile of the Ye skerries, 
especially in light winds ; and before closing them in misty weather, some 
portion of the Shedand coast should be sighted, so that a course may be 
shaped with the certainty of clearing them. 



S the space between the island and the shore of Mainland, 
is 2 miles long, east and west, by ^ a mile broad, and is frequently used by 
vessels going into or out of St. Magnus bay, to avoid the round of Papa 
Stour. The tide-streams run rapidly through it, and it is bordered by 
several dangle. Upon the island side, at the distance of a cable from its 
south-east point, is Forwick holm ; a cable south-west of which, is a small 
rock whieh shows only at low- water springs. The Rivera Baas are some 
small rocks which dry at low wat^, 1;;^ cables from the south point of 
Papa Stour. 

BmM^mfmm Salaiu — Upon the south or Mainland side of the sound, to the 
north-west of the Noup of Norbie, and nearly opposite Forwick holm, 
is the low islet Sandness holm ; ^ of a mile to the eastward of it, and 
directly abreast the Noup of Norbie, is ft sunken rock with only 2 feet 
over it at low water. At the rock, Melby house appears on with the 
south point of Sandness holm W. by S. ^ S.^ and the north bluff of the 
Koup of Norbie S.W. ^ S. J of a mile. 

Mi4kmmimA Bami, the next danger, are N.W. by W. ^ W. ^ of a mile 
from Sandness holm, with only 9 feet up<m them, and lying awkwaixlly in 
the channel through ihe sound. At tbem, the pile o£ stones on Sandness 
hill (which is elevated 811 feet) is directly over Melby house, S« f W. ; 

37863. S 



68 



CHAPTER IV. 

SHETLAM).— WATTS NESS TO SUMBUBGH HEAD. 

VABiATioir nr 1876. 
NeM • - - f2** 5' W. 



From Watts Ness to VaiU island, the coast preserves the usual rocky 
and broken character. Fontabroogh voe is the onlj inlet of consequence, 
bot as it is open to the westward, and exposed to the full force of gales 
from that direction, it does not need description. The bold cliffy coast is 
backed by hills of varied size and form, but in no instance presenting aoy 
marked feature which would be recognised from the ofling.* 

WAXUL n&AVB. 3 miles from Watte Ness, and lying within a line 
drawn between Mucklui« and Culswick Nesses, covers in Vaila sound, and 
bounds the entrance to Gmting voe, a land-locked and extensive harbour. 
From the offing, VaiU ishind spears to form » part of the mainhini for 
the passages on either side of it are narrow and winding, and only clearly 
distin^hed upon a close approach. To obviate this inconvenience two 
stone beacona or pUes have been erected on the summits of its two highest 
b'lls • they are about ^ a mile apart, and bear when in line, W. by N. ^ N. 

d E by S. 1 S. The sea-face of the island consists of irregular and 
bold cliffSf which may, if necessary, be approached closely. The east side 
is equally clear, but the north side is low, and connected to the main by a 
shallow flat. On an eminence upon the north-west end is a small building, 
from which a light was formerly shown for the use of the fishing vessels 
frequently Vaila sound. 

Near Culswick Ness, a mile to the southward of Vaila island, the scanty 
remains of an ancient edifice, named the Brough or Burgh of Culswick, 
stands on a projecting eminence and surrounded by a deep ditch. It has 
been sadly dilapidated to obtain stones to build a house in a neighbouring 
parish, which has not only impaired the appearance of an ancient structure, 
but in a great measure deprived vessels approaching the coast of a useful 
landmark. These buildings, at one time numerously distributed over the 
Shetland group, and variously teimed broughs, burghs, borgs, and duns, 
are supposed to have been erected by the Picts and Norwegians. They 
are arranged in such a manner as to keep up a line of communication over 
the whole country, and they occur in every variety of situation. 

* See Admiralty chart of Shetland islands, No. 1,118 ; scale, m » 0*5 inches. Also 
Admiralty general chart of the North sea, from the Channel to the Norway sea, 
No. 2,889 ; scale, <l » 3*0 inches. 



<3HAP.iv.] VAILA SOUND. — GRUTING VOE.- DIRECTIONS, 69 



is protected seaward by Yaila island, and is contained 
between the latter, the shores of Mainland, and Linga island lying within 
it. It is a mile long in a north-west and soath-east direction, and ^ of a 
mile broad. 

Vaila sound has two entrances ; the western passage, named the West 
sound, is between the shore within Mucklure Ness and the north side of 
Yaila island. At its outer end it is -^ a mile wide, and from thence con- 
tinues East for a mile to the sound, the narrowest part of the channel being 
abreast the middle of the north side of the island, where some rocks dry 
off from a point upon the Mucklure side, and reduce the navigable width 
of the channel to rather less than a cable. From the entrance to the 
narrows is a depth decreasing from 20 to 5 fathoms ; then succeeds a flat 
^ of a mile broad with 2 to 3 fathoms, and in the sound there are from 
6 to 10 fathoms. 

The East sound is formed between the east side of Yaila island, and the 
steep south-west face of White Ness ; the outer part of the channel 
between Yaila island and Muckle Fless (a rock lying out from the main 
north of Culswick Ness) is ^ of a mile wide. It is free from danger, 
narrow, and runs straight in a northerly dii'ection; but nearly in front of 
it in the sound is a small rock, named the Baa of Linga, nearly dry at low- 
water springs, lying 1^ cables outside some high-water rocks at the south 
point of Linga. This is the only hidden danger in the main body of the 
sound ; but dry rocks lie out from the north side of White Ness, the south 
and north-west sides of Linga^ and also upon the north side at the inner 
part of West sound. 

Within Linga island is Yaila voe ; it has 10 to 5 fathoms in it, and is 
clear in every part at a moderate berth from the shore. A kirk and 
several substantial houses are near its head. 

OKUTXiro voa has the same approach as the East sound, namely, 
between the south end of Yaila and the Muckle Fless ; but the immediate 
entry into the voe is between the south-east side of White Ness and the 
shore of Mainland, trending to the north-eastward within the Muckle Fless. 
The voe has a winding course eastward, north-eastward, and northward, 
for 3^ miles, terminating in a broad flat, with 2 to 3 fathoms over it. The 
smaller voes of Olas and Selie branch off from it to the south-eastward 
and eastward. The entry of Gruting voe is somewhat indirect, and not 
more than 2 cables in width, but the sides are steep-to. The breadth 
increases in the body of the voe to ^ a mile, and its sides are generally clear 
at the distance of a cable. 

BZXBOTZOirB. — To pass through the West sound, keep in mid-channel 
until up to the narrows ; pass ^ a cable off the contracting point from the 
northern shore, and a cable outside a dry rock a short distance within it ; 



70 SHETLAND. — ^WATTS NESS TO SUMBTJBeH HEAD, [chap.iv. 

abreast this rock is the shallowest part of the channel, there being here 
only 12 and 15 feet water. Having crossed the shoal ground, continue on 
an East course for nearly ^ a mile, and when the Burgh of Culswick 
appears open of the east side of Yaila island S. by E., anchor in 8 or 
9 fatlioms, sandy bottom. In this position a swell is experienced in 
westerly gales, and better shelter will be obtained by steering for the 
Burgh of Culswick, keeping it between Yaila island and White Ness ; and 
when the north point of Yaila is on with Mucklure Ness, anchor in 10 or 
11 fathoms in aland-locked position. 

To enter the East soimd with a vessel of burden, it is necessary^ on 
account of the narrowness of the channel, to have a Jeading wind. The 
Muckle Fless is steep-to on the outside, but a sunken rock lies ^ a cable 
from its north end. There are 16 feet at low water in the narrow passage 
within the Muckle Fless. As the shores of Yaila island and White Ness, 
forming the East sound, are clear to the rock edges, it is only necessary to 
keep in mid-channel on a general North course ; and having passed the 
narrowest part of the channel, which is abreast the north-western projection 
of White Ness, then the Burgh of Culswick should be kept open to the 
westward of it to avoid the Baa of Linga; and when Mucklure Ness 
appears just open of the north point of Yaila island, anchor as before 
directed. 

For a long stay, Yaila voe is the preferable anchorage, as it has all the 
advantages of an inner harbour. Proceeding to it from the anchorage in 
Yaila sound, steer to the southward, with the Burgh of Culswick mid-way 
in the opening between Yaila island and White Ness, imtil the eastern 
kirk at the head of the voe appears open of the east side of Linga, 
N.N.E., which is the mark to clear the east side of Linga Baa ; then 
keep in mid-channel between Linga and the opposite shore, and having 
passed the island, anchor under its shelter in the middle of the voe in 
6 or 7 fathoms. The head of the voe is not fit for anchorage, as it is 
shallow and foul. 

To proceed into Gruting voe, keep in mid-channel, and having run in 
about 1^ miles, a small holm will be observed off the north point of Selie 
voe ; anchor about 2 cables to the westward of it, with the mouths of the 
two smaller voes open, and rather over towards the southern shore, in 12 
or 14 fathoms, mud. There is excellent anchorage in every part of 
Gruting voe for a mile farther in, but no advantage is gained by taking up 
an inner berth. 

In working out of Gruting voe, give the shores on either side a berth of 
a cable until near the narrows, when they may be approached closely, as 
they are bold-to. The entrance of Gruting voe is, however, too narrow to 
allow of anything but a smart fore-and-aft vessel working through it, 



CHAP. IV.] YALLA SOUND, DIRECTIONS. — SKELDA VOE. 71 

especially as there is generally a swell setting into it, and the direction and 
force of the wind are unsteady. 

Tbe COAST from Culswick Ness to Skelda Ness, the western boundary 
of an extensive bight generally known as the Deeps, is S.S.E. ^'K. 3 miles, 
and the mark to avoid the outlying dangers of the intermediate coast, is 
Watts Ness open of Vaila island N.N.W. ^ W. The same mark leads 
across the Deeps to the entrance of the south channel into Scalloway. 
Gilderumple head, midway between Culswick and Skelda Nesses, is a bold 
precipitous holm, just detached from the main, with some remarkable 
pinnacle stacks standing near it. The cMs of the head are higher than 
those on either side of it, and a conspicuous pile of stones stands on its 
summit. Skelda Ness slopes from a higher background, and is rugged. 
The portion of coast just described has been much wasted and broken up 
into numerous small bays and detached rocks, among which, are several 
secure boat landing-places. 

SXBXiSA voa, affording an outer and an inner anchorage, is an 
indenture 1^ miles deep between the east side of Skelda Ness and the 
north-west side of Rewick Ness. Several outlying rocks are in front of 
the voe, and upon the east side of the entrance. 

Braffln Reef, the first of these, is E. by S. ^ of a mile from the south- 
west point of Skelda Ness, and about ^ a mile off the eastern cliffs of the 
ness. A small portion of this reef is 6 feet above high water, but the rest 
of it is covered ; a sunken rock lies a cable to the southward of the dry 
part, but with this exception the reef, which is 1^ cables long, may be 
approached closely on all sides to within a cable. 

Tbe Snap, the next rock, lies ^ of a mile off Bewick Ness ; it is from 
10 to 12 feet above high- water springs, and is a distinct object ; between 
the Snap and the ness, are three rocks which dry at low water, rendering 
the passage unsafe for vessels. There are also two rocks off the north- 
west point of Rewick Ness upon the east side of the entrance to the voe, 
bearing from the Snap N.N.W. § W. f of a mile ; they are always above 
water, and the larger, or north-eastern rock, is connected with the shore 
at low water. One quarter of a cable outside the smaller rock, is another 
which dries only at low- water springs ; from this latter danger a flat 
with a depth of 13 or 14 feet extends for a cable, with 12 fathoms close 
to it. 

The immediate entrance to Skelda voe, between the last-mentioned rocks 
and the east shore of Skelda Ness, is ^ of a mile wide, with a dej)th of 
10 and 11 fathoms across ; ^ a mile farther in is a small bay within the 
line of the western shore, having rocks in the middle of it which dry at 
low water. The voe extends in ^ of a mile beyond the bay, but about 



72 SHETLAND. — ^WATTS NESS TO STTMBTJRGH HEAD. [chap. ir. 

mid-way, its breadth decreases to ^ a cable from shore to shore, with a 
depth in the chamiel of only 8 feet ; but above it, the breadth increases to 
2 cables, and the depth to 14 and 15 feel at low water, 

Skelda voe is not generally frequented, on account of the swell which 
sets into it in south-westerly gales ; but in winds from North to West, it 
is a convenient stopping-place for vessels not having sufficient daylight to 
reach Scalloway or the neighbouriug ports. 

In approaching the voe, it is only necessary to avoid the Bragin reef 
and the rocks already described, and having passed those off the north-west 
point of Rewick Ness, anchor in the voe about mid-channel in any depth, 
fipom 10 to 6 fathoms. Vessels drawing less than 8 feet may proceed to 
the head of the voe, where there is secure anchorage in 14 and 15 feet at 
low water. 

BAJrBZSTmuL BOiaiiiB, or the Score holms, as they are often termed, 
from there being that number of them, are a cluster of small islets and 
rocks above and below water, a mile to the eastward qf Bewick Ness ; they 
are intersected by several deep passages, so bounded and encumbered how- 
ever by hidden dangers, as to be unsafe even to a boat. A vessel keeping 
about IJ cables outside the outer visible rocks, will be clear of all 
dangers. 

OASBBS-BOVBB VOB is between the north-east side of Bewick Ness 
and the west side of Kirk Ness ; a small island named Kirk holm lying off 
the latter, and bounding the entrance of the voe to the eastward, has several 
sunken dangers about it, and close upon the south-west side of the holm is 
a large rock always above water ; there is also a rock a cable S.S.E. of it, 
which appears only at low- water springs. The west side of the holm may 
be closed to ^ a cable, but its east side must not be approached to within 
double that distance. 

The general direction of Garder-house voe is N.N.E. ; it is a mile deep, 
and less than ^ of a mile wide. At its entrance, which is 3 cables broad, 
there is a depth of 13 fathoms, but the average navigable width in the voe 
is less than a cable, with depths varying from 9 to 4 fathoms. Near the 
head of the voe is Garder house and the manse, the former presenting its 
gable end to the entrance, and the latter its front, by which distinction 
they may be easily recognized. 

In entering the voe, be careful of the sunken rock lying off the south- 
east side of Kirk holm. The Snap rock kept in sight putside the Noup of 
Bewick clears it well on the south-east side, and the manse at the head 
of the voe in sight, N.E. by N. ^ N., clears it passing to the westward. 
Having passed the holm, keep in mid-channel up the voe, and anchor in 
any convenient depth. As much as 4 fathoms will be found to nearly 
abreast of Garder house, but the head of the voe is shallow. 



CHAP. IV.] GABDEE HOUSE A'ND BIXETTER VOES. 73 

Between Kirk Ness and Fora Ness is a small bay, named Sand voe, 
with depths gradually decreasing towards the shore from 9 fathoms in its 
outer part. As south-west winds blow right into it and send home a 
heavy swell, it is unfrequented except by fishing vessels, and they only 
use it with off-shore winds. The Snap rock, kept its own breadth open 
of the Noup of Bewick, leads into the hay. In working, the north-west 
side of Fora Ness may be closed, as it is clean, but the south-east side of 
Kirk Ness is foul for the distance of a cable, and must have a good berth 
given it, . 

The eastern- boundary of Sand voe is Fora Ness, a long narrow pro- 
jecting point, 1^ miles in length, but only 2 cables broad; the rocky islet, 
Fora holm, lies off the ness, and is separated from it by a narrow boat 
passage with 12 feet in it at low water ; the holm and the ness may be 
approached on all sides to a cable. 

■AxrBBOim and BXXBTTBB VOBB. — ^Between Fora Ness and Busa 
Ness, another bold and prominent point | of a mile to the north-eastward of 
the former, is the entrance to one of the largest inlets of the south-west side 
of Shetland. The outer part, or entrance, is "of a rectangular form, a mile 
long in a N.N.E. direction, by nearly ^ a mile wide ; it then turns abruptly 
to the westward for a short distance, and the shoi*es approach each other 
to ^ of a cable, from this part the width gradually increases to ^ a mile, 
and the general direction is N. by E. for 1^ miles. This middle portion of 
the inlet is known as Sandsound voe. Between Symbister and Long 
nesses at the upper end of Sandsound voe, is the entrance into Bixetter voe, 
a capacious and secure inland basin 2^ miles long, and clean in every part, 
but the north-west extremity is shallow. 

The whole of this extensive inlet is free from danger at J a cable from 
the shores on either side. At -^ a mile within the entrance is a moderate 
depth of 10 to 12 fathoms, and excellent holding ground. The narrow 
passage into Sandsound voe has 8 and 9 fathoms in it, and Sandsound voe 
from 10 to 12 fathoms, with shelter from all winds. Symbister Ness, the 
western point of the entrance into Bixetter voe, is fronted by a long spit 
which dries at low water, and limits the width of the navigable channel to 
a cable ; to avoid this flat, it is necessary on entering to keep within ^ a 
cable of Long Ness ; above these points, Bixetter voe expands to the east- 
ward and westward, and anchorage may be taken up in the body of it in 
6 to 7 fathoms, mud. 

The north-west poi*tion of Bixetter voe is flat, with not more than a depth 
of 9 or 10 feet, and it is obstructed by several spits projecting from either 
shore. It is only used by the native boats, which land many passengers 
from the southern parts of Shetland at the head of the voe, who, by walking 
the short distunce which separates it from Onifirth and Aith voes (from 



74 SHETLAND. — ^WATTS NESS TO SXJMBURaH HEAD, [chap. rv. 

either of which boato are readily obtained for any part of St. MagnuB bay), 
save both the additional time and expense of the longer route by Watts 
Ness and Papa Stour. 



iTBA&a voa. — ^The entrance to Westdale yoe is between Bnsa 
Ness and Hoy, Flota, and Gruna, small islets lying off the north-west side 
of the long projecting point Bene Ness. 

KoYt which is E.S.E. nearly a mile from Fora holm, is nearly ^ a mile 
long by 1^ cables broad, with three smaller holms or stacks extending for 
2 cables from its north-west side ; and ^ a cable outside the westeiiunost 
holm, there is a half-tide rock upon a flat of 22 feet which falls abruptly 
into 11 fathoms. There is also a Baa with 5 fathoms on it, lying 2 cables 
to the north-west of the south-west point of the island, which must be 
avoided in heavy weather. 

nota, ^ of a mile from Hoy, and abreast of and nearly ^ a mile from 
Rusa Ness, is of a horse-shoe form, with an irregular outline ; its various 
points are all foul, particularly those to the westward and south-west, where 
the rocks dry out at low water for a cable ; and ^ a cable from the north- 
west and north points are detached reefs which appear only at low water. 
Flota is connected to Hoy by a ridge of 6 £Athoms, with 11 to 16 fathoms 
on either side of it. 

Onina, t&e smallest islet of the three, is only | of a cable from the north- 
east extremity of Flota ; to the east of it are several sunken rocks ; and a 
flat, with 2 to 3 fathoms upon it, extends north-easterly from its north-east 
end. Upon its outside, Gruna may be closed to a cable. 

There is a passage between these islets and the north-west shore of Bene 
Ness, but as it is very narrow abreast Flota, and with as little as 2 feet in 
it at low water, no vessel should attempt it. 

The principal obstruction near the entrance to Westdale voe is a reef 
which dries at low water, E. by S. J a mile from Rusa Ness, N.W. 2 cables 
from the North point of Flota, and W. by N. 2 cables from the south-west 
point of Gruna. There is a depth of 10 fathoms close to this danger on 
every side. 

Above these islets and rocks Westdale voe is | of a mile wide, from 
whence it continues for 3 miles (with a breadth gradually decreasing), in 
a north-easterly direction, except about midway up, where it bends for a 
short distance to the northward, and then turns to its former direction. 
Towards its head, the voe is shallow and partially foul. The mansion of 
Sound with its outbuildings and a landing-place in front, is a prominent 
object on the west shore at the head of the voe. 



CHAP. IV.] WE&TDALE VOE. — STBOMNESS YOE. 75 



icnoirs. — ^In entering Westdale voe, a vessel will avoid all out- 
lying dangers after Busa Ness has beeA passed, by keeping within 2 cables 
of the north-western shore. In working, the sunken rock to the north-west 
of Flota will be cleared passing to the westward, by keeping the north-west 
extremity of North Halvera island open of the westernmost of the stacks 
lying out from Hoy ; and its noi*th side is cleared by keeping the Snap rock 
on with the north-west point of Fora holm W.S.W. Having arrived where 
the voe turns to the northward, keep in mid-channel, avoiding a flat which 
extends a cable from the western point, and anchor in 5 to 6 fathoms, 
mud^ with the mansion of Sound bearing N.N.E. ^ E. ^ of a mile. In 
this position, a vessel will be sheltered by the land, except between S.W. 
(southerly) and S.W. by W. (westerly), but in gales from that quarter, 
the swell has been reduced and rendered harmless before it reaches the 
anchorage. 

Westdale voe is not generally frequented by shipping, but it aflbrds 
excellent shelter and a safe retreat in case of emergency. 

iroiiTB BA&vuLa. Z8&AirB is near the extremity of Bene Ness, the 
outermost of two long narrow points of a very marked character projecting 
from Mainland. The island is separated from the ness by a passage with 
5 fathoms in it, but it is too narrow to be used by a vessel with safety. 
North Halvera is high, and bounded by cliffs ; a rock always above water 
and a flat extend rather more than a cable from its southern extremity, 
when the water suddenly deepens to 19 fathoms, and a cable from the 
north-west portion of the island is the Horse of Halvera, a rock showing 
only at low-water springs, and much in the way of vessels rounding the 
island from the north voes to Scalloway, or vice versd. No mark which 
would be identified by a stranger can be given for clearing this rock ; it is 
therefore necessary while in its vicinity, to keep a proper distance from 
the island. 

STUOimrass vob is u long narrow inlet between Bene and Usta Nesses, 
the narrow strips or tongues of land adverted to ai^ove, the voe receiving 
its name from Strom Ness, the outer extremity of Bene Ness. The direction 
of the voe is north-east, and its length 3 miles. At its entry it is ^ of a mile 
wide, but ^ a mile within, it is a narrow passage f of a cable across, in the 
middle of which is a rock always above water. The least water into the 
voe is 7 feet, at the inner part of the narrow passage, and there are also two 
rocks near the north-west side which appear at low water. Afterwards, 
the voe increases somewhat in width, and is clear of danger for 1 J miles 
to another rock above water lying in the middle of the voe, which then 
becomes too shallow and foul for anchorage. 

Stromness voe is never used except by the native sloops and boats, in 
consequence of its narrowness and the obstructions in it ; the critical 



76 SHETLAND. — ^WATTS NESS TO SUMBURGH HEAD. [chap. it. 

portion of the navigation is at the narrow part within the entrance, where 
it is necessary to pass to the westward of the dry rock, and then to keep 
the eastern 8hoi*e aboard until well through, to avoid the sunken dangers 
lying out from the north-western side. 

TiTBZTBarBSB VOB runs parallel to Stromness voe, from which it is 
separated by Usta Ness; but it is a wider and deeper inlet, and more 
generally available. The width of the voe at the entry, ^ a mile, is main- 
tained for nearly 2 miles, to where the navigation may be said to end. 
The only dangers are at the entrance ; one sunken rock, named the Foul 
Baa, lies a cable to the south-west of the extremity of Usta Ness, and 
another, named Hirpa skerry, is near the middle of the small bight just 
within Usta Ness. The Kirkhouse skerry, always above water, is in the 
middle of the voe, 1;^ miles from the entrance. The sides of the voe are 
clean, and the average depth over it is 6 to 8 fathoms, muddy bottom. 

In rounding Usta Ness, Foul Baa is cleared by keeping the north- 
easternmost of the Sandistura holms open to the south-west of North 
Hal vera N.N.W. ^ W., and while proceeding up the voe, give the western 
shore a berth of 2 cables to clear Hirpa skerry ; pass on either side of 
Kirkhouse skerry in mid-channel, and anchor a little above it in 6 or 7 
fathoms, mud. 

Whiteness voe is only used when vessels have not sufficient daylight 
left to reach the neighbouring harbour of Scalloway, for, as a general rule, 
it is extremely unsafe to keep under way in the vicinity of the Shetland 
shore during the night. 

BCAih&owAT.* — The small but secure harbour of Scalloway is pro- 
tected by several islands and rocks which will be here described, as the 
various channels of approach to Scalloway harbour from the westward are 
formed between them. 

Biidasay, the largest of the number, is E.S.E. ^ S. 2| miles from 
Skelda Ness, and S.E. ^ S. less than half a mile from the south-west Sandis- 
tura holm ; it is I of a mile long and ^ a mile wide, and a few houses 
stand on an eminence towards its north end. Almost connected with its 
south-west end is the small islet Linga ; ^ a cable from the north point 
of Hildasay is a rock which dries at half-tide ; the west and east sides of 
the island are clear, but the south-western point has a ledge projecting 
from it for nearly a cable, the outer rock of which is always above water, 
and the south-west sides of both Hildasay and Linga, with its small holm, 
the Hog of Linga, are foul, and should have a berth of 1^ cables. The 
How skerry, a rock 5 or 6 feet above high-water springs, lies about 

* See Plan of Scalloway harbonr, scale m = 2 inches, on Admiralty chart of the 
Shetland isles, No. 1,118. 



ciup.iv.] SCALLOWAY. — HOLMS AND SKERRIES. . 77 

1^ cables to the south-westward of Linga, and rocky and foul ground, with 
only 3 and 4 feet over it, extends J of a mile to the eastward of the skerry, 
and may generally be distinguished from the deep water on both sides of 
it. The channel between Linga and How skerry is deep, but too narrow 
to be used without risk. 

Channea, Ozna, and Papa are the south-easternmost islands of the 
cluster, and are nearly in connection with one another. The Channes 
consists of several small holms clear to the westward and north-westward 
at the distance of 2 cables, and to the north-east and eastward at ^ a cable. 
Oxna, of a triangular form and about § of a mile long and broad, is close to 
tlie southward of Channes, with which it is connected by shallow ground 
and a few intermediate skerries. Except to the north-west, where skerries 
and ledges extend some distance, the sides of Oxna are clear at a cable. A 
detached cluster of rocks, named the Stags, lie 3 cables from the south- 
west end of it : the south-western rock is the largest, and is always above 
water ; it is steep-to except to the eastward, where there are several smaller 
rocks. The Ballier skerry, an obstruction in the south channel, is a rock 
5 to 6 feet above high water, nearly ^^ of a mile to the south-east of Oxna, 
and the same distance to the eastward of the Stags ; it is very small and 
steep-to. Papa, the innermost island of the group, lies to the north-west 
and south-east, and, including an islet at the north-west end, is about a 
mile long ; it is much indented, but by keeping a cable outside the 
projecting points, all dangers will be avoided. 

&onffa is a long narrow islet lying nearly mid-way between Linga and 
Scalloway Ness ; it is nearly divided ; the two portions composing it being 
merely connected by a beach a few yards across. A small house stands 
on the north- eastern part. Longa may be approached at the sides to 
^ a cable, but not within double that distance off its south-west end, which 
is foul. 

Papa Skerry, lying nearly mid-way between Longa and the north-east 
end of Papa, is always above water ; it dries out for some distance at low 
water to the northward and southward, but otherwise it is steep-to. 

Burwiok Boim lies in- shore | of a mile to the north -eastward of Scallo- 
way Ness, in front of a small bay of the same name. It is steep-to on the 
outside. 

iviialebaok, Sonrvy, and Swarta Skerries are three rocks lying a short 
distance to the westward of Scalloway Ness, and across the middle channel 
into Scalloway harbour ; there are, however, deep and safe passages 
between them. Whaleback, the northernmost, is small, and just covered 
at high-water springs ; Scurvy skerry, the middle rock, is 12 to 15 feet 
above high water, J a cable in length, and covered with grass ; and Swarta 



78 SHETLAND. — WATTS KE8S TO SUMBTTRGH HEAD. [chap. it. 

skeny, to the southward, is small, and onlj a foot or two above high 
water. 



is an elevated islet, 2 cables long, jast to the south-west of 
the last-mentioned rock. It is clear on every side. 

WKerrj Bolm is a large rock, 15 feet above high water, a cable to the 
south-east of Green holm, to which it is connected bja narrow ridge 
having 8|^ to 4 fathoms over it, and 8 fathoms close to it upon each side. 
The South channel to Scalloway passes between Green and Merry holms. 

The north-eastern extremities of the islands West Burra and Trondra, 
which together bound the South channel to the south-east, are clear at 
^ a cable. 

so A&&OWAT BASBomt is formed between the south-east side of Scal- 
loway Ness and the north-east end of Trondra ; and Scalloway castle and 
village stand prominently forward in the north-east comer of it. Upon 
Trondra side the shore is free of danger at a berth of ^ a cable, but off Maw 
Ness, a point 2 cables within Scalloway Ness, a rock, named Willy Whites 
rock, lies out ^ of a cable ; and West-shore Ness, the next point above, has 
ledges projecting from it for the same distance. Immediately within West- 
shore Ness is the anchorage. That portion of the harbour to the eastward 
of a line joining the castle and the north-east extremity of Tondra is 
shallow, and only suitable for small vessels. 

Scalloway, once the capital of the Shetlands, and now only second 
in importance to Lerwick, is well situated on the north-east point, and 
upon the margin of the bay or harbour. The cottages are of a better 
description than common, and there is a kirk and Independent chapel, 
and a school. The castle, built for a residence by the notorious Earl 
Patrick in 1600, stands prominently above the village, the outer walls 
of a square formal structure three stories high, alone remaining. It forms 
a conspicuous object from the offing, and is useful as a sea-mark. 

Supplies, Ac. — Water and a few supplies may readily be obtained at 
Scalloway. It is an important fishing station, for the purposes of which, 
a substantial quay and curing-houses have been provided, and the port 
has besides a fair amount of general trade with the small stations and 
hamlets upon the west side of Shetland. 

DZBBCTZOxrs. — ^The North Channel to Scalloway is between Sand- 
istura holms, Burwick holm, and Scalloway Ness to the north-east, and Hil- 
dasay, Longa, and the three rocks, Whaleback, Scurvy, and Swarta, to the 
south-west. This channel is generally used in northerly winds ; its entrance, - 
between Sandistura holms and Hildasay, is E. by S. J S. 2| miles from 
Skolda Ness ; and as all the dangers in it are visible, it is only necessary to 
keep the prescribed distances from the points in passing. Should it be 



ciiAP. IV.] SCALLOWAY HARBOUR. — DIRECTIONS. 79 

* 

near high water, steer towards Scalloway Ness, and round it within the 
distance of a cable, so as to be sure of clearing the Whaleback, and keep 
the same distance from the northern shore, or about mid-channel, in 
approaching Scalloway. The outer end of Scalloway quay, in sight out- 
side West-shore Ness, clears Willy White's rock ; and having passed West- 
shore Ness, and brought the north-east point of Green holm on with it 
bearing W. J S., and being almost midway between the ness and the village 
of Scalloway, anchor in 4 or 4^ fathoms, mud. 

Tbe Middle cbannel, leading to Scalloway is between Hildasay, Linga, 
and Longa to the north-east, and Cliannes, Papa, and Green-holm to the 
south-west ; and the entrance to it lies S.E. | E. 2^ miles from Skelda 
Ness. It is not generally to be preferred, on account of the skerries which 
are in it, but time may be saved in scant north-easterly winds by using it. 
The best track is between Channes and How skerry, Longa and Papa 
skerry, and Scurvy and Swarta skerries, or between the latter and Green 
holm ; andTiaving reached the channel between Scalloway Ness and Trondra, 
proceed as before directed. 

Tae Sontb ciianiiel, the most frequented route to Scalloway, has 
the Stag rocks, Ballier skerry, Oxna, Papa, and Green holm to the north- 
ward, and West Burra island. Merry holm, and Trondra to the south- 
ward. Watts Ness kept just in sight leads to it from the north-west. The 
Stag rocks at the north side of the entrance bear S.S.E. ^ E. 3j^ miles from 
Skelda Ness, and at them Fitful head appears touching Kettle Ness, the 
south-west extremity of West Burra, S.S.W. J W. The general leading 
mark through this channel is Scalloway castle seen between Green holm 
and Merry holm E. f N., and so long as it is not shut in by one or the 
other, all danger is avoided. In passing between Green and Merry holms, 
keep rather nearer to the former than the latter, and, when clear of them, 
the same course continued will lead to the anchorage. 

CAVTZOir. — The south-west extremity of West Burra has at times been 
mistaken for Oxna. In order to avoid this error, it is only necessary to 
remember that at the Stag rocks off Oxna, Fitful head is exactly on with 
Kettle Ness, the south-west extremity of West Burra ; whereas from the 
latter promontory, Little Hal vera island, the next land to the southward, 
is well within the line to Fitful head. 

There is a fourth passage into Scalloway harbour, namely, that between 
the west shore of Mainland and the north-east extremity of Trondra, but 
it kas only 7 feet in it at low water, and is not more than a cable in 
width, and a spit, named the Scarp of Trondra extends from the western 
shore, reducing the breadth of the navigable channel to less than ^ of a 
cable, and confining it close along the eastern shore. This passage is 
used only by native vessels, and a stranger would need the services of a 



80 SHETLAND. — ^WATTS NESS TO SUMBUBGH HEAD. [chap. iy. 

pilot, especially as the configaration of the channel varies from timer to 
time. 



t. — Secure anchorage will be found in the vicinity of the 
middle channel, in the space between Chahnes, Oxna, and Papa. Here 
there is a depth of 11 fathoms, sandj bottom, and protection from all 
winds, except from N. bj E., and should it be necessary to leave it to 
avoid the wind from that direction, the channel between Oxna and Papa is 
open and available. 



—It is high water, full and change, at Scalloway at 9h. 30m. 
Springs rise 5| feet ; neaps 4J^ feet. 



ana BAST and WVST BiUKMJL are three narrow islands 
lying to the south-west of Scalloway, and parallel to the shore of Mainland 
abreast ; collectively, they occupy a space about 6 miles long, and rather 
more than a mile broad ; West Burra, upon the outside, and covering in the 
other two, is separated from them by a tortuous, shallow, and encumbered 
boat channel, which is interrupted, midway up, by a rude bridge connecting 
West and East Burra. 

The north-west end of West Burra, bounding the south channel to 
Scalloway, is dear at the distance of a cable, but lying out from ^the centre 
of the island are two prominent detached rocks, the East and West skerries, 
the latter an outer rock, being from 8 to 10 feet above high- water springs. 
There is foul ground within the skerries, and consequently no vessel should 
pass them on that side. The south-west and south sides of West Burra 
are clear at the distance of a cable. 

Trondra, the smallest island of the three, is bounded on the south-east 
or inner side by a flat a cable in breadth ; a shallow extension of which, 
connects the north-east end of the island with the shore of Mainland 
abreast, and the island is separated from East Burra by a narrow boat 
passage, named Stream sound. 

East Burra is nearly divided towards its south-west extremity, and at 
this part is a small bay on the east side^ with a rock, just above high water, 
nearly in the middle of it ; with this exception, the whole of the south- 
east side of East Burra is direct and clean, and its- south-west end is also 
bold to the small skerries lying out from it. 

In the channel between East and West Burra, are extensive beds of 
excellent native oysters. 

OKBAT and ihZTT&B U£kJ$WR£L Z8&AWBS are a mile to the south- 
west of West and East Burra. Great Halvera is about the same distimce 
from the shore of Mainland; it is much worn and indented, and is 
triangular in form, with the base to the south-eastward. It is clear at the 
distance of a cable on its north-east and south-west sides, and clear and 



CHAP. IV] HALVEEA ISLANDS. — CLIFF SOUND, 81 

steep-to on its south-east or inner side. Little Halvera is 1^ cables to the 
westward ; its south end is clean ; its west side is foul for 2 cables, and 
North, 2 cables' lengths from its north end, and West the same distance 
from the north-west point of Great Halvera, are three rocks, two of which 
dry at low water. They will be cleared passing to the north-east by 
keeping the north-east side of Great Halvera in sight S.E. | E., and on 
the outside by keeping Oxna in sight outside Kettle Ness N.N.E. f E. 

A small islet, named Maywick holm, is near the shore of Mainland, and 
abreast the south-west end of Great Halvera. It is foul upon the north 
and south-west sides, and it is necessary to give it a berth of a cable. 
There are also detached ^angel's near it: S.S.W. 1^ cables from the south 
end of the holm, and 3 cables from the main, is a small rock which shows 
at low water ; N.E. f E., 4 cables from the holm, and a cable from the 
main, there is also another small rock which appears at low-water springs, 
and outside the latter is a rocky flat a cable broad, with 4 to 9 feet upon it. 

c&XFF BomrB, bounded by Trondra, the Burra, and Halvera islands to 
the north*west, and by Mainland to the south-east, is a noble inlet, 7 miles 
long by ^ a mile wide, and is a safe place of refuge under certain circum- 
stances of weather. An elevated ridge in Mainland, named the Cliff hills, 
consisting of primitive clay-slate, descends in a steep escarpment to the 
south-east shore of the sound, which is nearly direct for the whole distance, 
and is, except in the immediate vicinity of Maywick holm, free of outlying 
danger to the rock edges. The covering islands on their inner side are 
also clear at a berth of a cable^ while the depths in the sound ai^e 
moderate ; the ground throughout is good for holding, and the protection 
perfect in all winds. In strong westerly gales, and having the choice, the 
harbour of Scalloway is to be preferred for refuge, for the abrupt elevation 
of the Cliff hills having the effect of deadening the wind and causing 
eddies, renders safe entry uncertain. At other times no such effect is 
produced. 

BZHBCTZoars. — Having identified the south-west points of the Burra or 
Halvera islands, there is no difficulty in entering Cliff sound. Either of 
the passages north or south of Halvera islands may be used, according to 
cipcumstances, but the latter is the common route. Havring entered within 
Great Halvera^ be careful while in its vicinity to keep the remarkable 
stack or holm upon the north-west side of St. Ninian island open of 
Maywick head S.TT. | S., so as to avoid Maywick holm and the 
sunken dangers near it. Having passed them, the sound is clear to either 
side. 



I may be taken up in several places ; first of all abreast the 
small bay in East Burra, over which stands a blue-slated house with 

37383. F 



i. ^rr*x. HA:T*rs vjwszziz ^e fK»i=i-Bi« siae «f Ekk B«n S.W. J "W., 
'^ hsfijiZmtL, uniL Hsr* ^Mr» S» »:«:^ prDtecsaoB, exeept in very 
a«rT sik«^. vitSK 5k w^ \^ afriaabie «» jammil 2J miles 
ic % Aitrsia S^r!sit sivcxfi. ijie <aaKK^ Itf cm East Bam and 

vp in 7 <r 8 fiidraiiiB. 

of ]%ht 



v^'-nrx t^^ so pass ilr:^^ the kead «f CcJ' soosd to Scdknraj 



aatSgiffn^ wca af MiTwic^ head, and 
S (abwes fixcB ihe fibore cf MAir^sad. a^ prcperir ipeakiii^« a pcninaDlay as 
it m yJcuA to the aus bj a aarr&v aaadr kthaas OTcr wluch the sea 
beat« crnlj ia L^h tidee wirh Bcnh-westtfir galea, 
a ir.Tlf: kxLg azsd \ dL %. zcije broad, is ^?ch vora 
detached portioGS lie om to the westward, the iKX-th-westefnmost of which 
is Qsc&las a mark in entering GHfTsoand. 

The two small bajs on either ade of the sandf seek are at times osed 
bj the natire figging Tesgeb, bat the space is limited^ and the northern one 
is onsale, exeept to those well acquainted with i^ as there are sereril 
sunken patches with onlj 12 to 21 feet iqion them within a line from the 
north- west point of the island to Ifajwick head. The southem anchorage, 
called Bigton baj, fimn a boose of the same name standing above it, may 
be safelj nsed in the sommo- months. To enter it, it is onlj neoessaiy to 
give tiie rocks tying oat from the south side of the isUnd a berth of a cable, 
and then round in and anchor in mid-channel in 5^ fiUhoms, sand, with 
the south-east point of the nefg^boming island Colsaj, <m with the south- 
east side of the rocks from St. Ninian. 

The small island Colsaj, upon tiie south-west side of the bight between 
St. Ninian and Fora Ness, is rugged and broken, but dear at the distance 
of a cable outside the detached rocks surrounding it. 



—The coast of Mainland from Cliff sound to Fitful head 
is bold and rockjr, but clear at ^ of a mile outside the high detached rocks 




Fitful Head, S. \ E. 22 mUes. 

by which it is skirted. From Maywick head^ the height of the foreland 
declines to Fora Ness, where it again becomes elevated, attaining in Fitful 



■^■r- 



CHAP. IV.] FITFUL HEAD. — QTJENDALE BAT. 83 

or Fitfiel head (the white mountain) an elevation of 929 feet. This 
noble promontory, a striking object, and the first land seen when ap- 
proaching the Shetlands from the south-westward, is fully deserving 
of the interest with which it has been invested by Sir Walter Scott in 
his '' Pirate." 



QVBirDA&s MAY^ an anchorage within the south-east side of Fitful head, 
is frequently used by vessels bound to the eastward of Shetland when unable 
to contend against north-easterly winds, but it is not a safe stopping-place 
except in the height of summer, for though it is sheltered in all directions 
except between S.S.W. and S.W. by W., a heavy sea is thrown into 
it in south-westerly gales, and many wrecks have occurred in it from 
vessels not quitting the bay upon the first appearance of an unfavourable 
change. 

The position of the bay is readily distinguished by Fitful head to the 
northward, by Sumburgh head and lighthouse a couple of miles to the 
southward, and by the gap which the sandy contour of the bay makes 
in the general line of rocky shore.- Scat Ness and Cross and Horse 
islands defend the bay in southerly winds ; and Grarth Ness, the south- 
eastern projection of Fitful head, protects it in northerly and westerly 
winds. 



U immediately off Scat Ness, is bounded by inaccessible 
cliffs, and is the southernmost land of the Shetland group. 

The only foul portions of the bay are to the northward of Cross island, 
from whence a reef extends for 1^ cables ; and well in the bight, between 
the north end of Cross island and the inner part of Scat Ness, is the Oxfoot 
rock, a detached ledge, appearing only at low water. 



iCTZOirs. — The entrance to Quendale bay between Garth Ness and 
Cross island is f of a mile wide, with a depth of 15 &thoms. In running, the 
ness may be rounded closely, but in working in the southern portion of the 
bay, keep the highest part of Cross island to the southward of S.W. | W., 
to avoid the Oxfoot rock, or Horse island open to the westward of Lady 
skerry, a mass of rock lying between Cross island and the shore. The other 
portions of the bay are clean, and may be closed by the lead. The best 
anchorage is in the north-west corner of the bay, within Garth Ness, 
with a storehouse on the shore bearing N.W. by W. ^ W., and the 
south-east extremity of Garth Ness S.W. by W. ; here there are 5 fathoms, 
sand, and the position is sheltered, except between the points above 
mentioned. 

p 2 



84 SHETLAND. — ^WATTS KESS TO SUMBUBGH HEAD. [chap. it. 



a mile to the eastward of 
Horse island, are shown in the aeoompanjing view, the island heing to the' 




Smnbaigh head. E. f S. 2. miles. 

left. The deep hay between them. West voe, should not be entered by a 
sailing vessel, iss it is exposed in sontherlj winds. • 

TXDB8* — It is high water, foil and change, upon the shore near Sum- 
bnrgh head at 9h. 45m., and the rates of the streams of springs and neaps 
are respectively 7 and 3^ knots per honr ; one of the features which give 
rise to the dangerous roost already described. About 1^ hours before high 
water, the stream near the shore b^ins to run to the westward from Sum- 
burgh head to Fitftil head. The general direction of the flood is S. by E., 
or from Fitful head to Horse island ; but after running 3 hours, it 
gradually trends to South, S. by W., and S.S.W., until high water by the 
shore ; it then turns westerly, and, uniting ii^th the in^shore eddy stream 
above alluded to, it sets to the north-west until low water by the shore. 
A vessel bound to the westward, by taking advantage of the in-shore tide, 
may thus have 7^ hours in her favour. 



86 



CHAPTER V. 

ORKNEYS.— SEA MARGIN AND APPROACHES. 



Variation in 1876. 
23° C W. to 22° 20' W. 



r. — The Orkneys,* a name which is probably derived 
from Orch (outwards, extreme, or bordering), and ey (island), are a group 
of islands separated from the north-east extremity of Scotland by the 
Pentland firth, a strait 5^ miles wide, noted for the rapidity of its tide- 
streams, and the consequent dangerous character of its navigation.f 

The Orkneys are included between lat. 58° 41' and 59^ 23' N., and 
long. 2® 23' and 8® 26' W. ; they are fifty-six in number, twenty-nine being 
inhabited, — ^the principal of which are Mainland or Pomona, Hoy, Sanda 
Westra, Bowsa, South Ronaldsha, Eda, Shapinsha, Stronsa, and North 
Bonaldsha. Hoy is the only island of the group that can be considered 
mountainous, and here the elevation reaches in Hoy hill 1,556 feet above 
high water ; a few of the other islands have hills of moderate height ; but 
they are for the most part low, especially the north-easternmost of the 
group. There is a considerable variety in other respects ; in giome instances 
the coasts are bold and rocky, in others they are fiat and sandy, while- 
nearly throughout there is great irregularity of form, a result of the 
constant wearing action of the sea, which has caused the islands to present 
a series of crooked and jagged peninsulas projecting in all directions,! 
rather than a group of compact insular bodies. 

The Orkney islands are about fifty-six in number, of which only twenty- 
nine contain human habitations. The remaining twenty-seven, called 
holms (which is the generic word for a small island), are chiefiy used for 
pasturage, but some are quite deserted, being overfiowed by the tide at 
high water. These last, and a few others which have little or no soil on 
them, are called skerries^ a word which means sharp, rugged rocks. The 
most notable of these are the Pentland skerries, two small islands in the 

♦ For the Natural History of the Orkneys, see " Historia Naturalis Orcadensis, Part I.," 
by W. B. Baikie, M.D., and Robert Heddle. 1848. 

f See Admiralty chart of the Orkneys, No. 2,180; scale, m ^0*5 inches. Also 
Admiralty charts of the British islands. No. 2; scale d^ 1} inches ; Scotland, east 
coast, sheet v., No. 2,181 ; scale <2 » 15^ inches ; and North Ronaldsha firth, No. 2,569 ; 
scale, m » 2^ inches. 



86 ORKNEYS, — SEA MARGIN AND APPROACHES, [chap. v. 

Pentland firth, lying dose together, on which are two lighthouses, and on 
which five families reside. The most southerly of the islands except the 
skerries, and Stroma, which is about the middle of the firth, and belongs 
to Caithness, is South Bonaldshaj, and North Ronaldshay' is the most 
remote to the north. It will be observed that nearly all the names end 
in " ay " or " ey " or " a," which are all said to be the different forms of 
a Gothic termination which means a large island, as holm means a small 
one, fit only for pasturage. Of the whole fifty-six islands Pomona or 
the mainland is much the largest, its greatest length from east to west 
being 30 miles, and its greatest breadth near its western extremity 16 miles. 
Towards its eastern extremity it narrows to 6 or 7 miles, and between the 
bays of Kirkwall and Scapa it contracts into something about a mile and 
a half. Kirkwall, the capital of the islands, is a royal burgh, containing 
about 4,400 inhabitants, and its charter was granted by King James III. 
of Scotland.* 



\. — In approaching the islands from the 
westward in clear weather, the various prominent objects may be readily 
distinguished ; and from the southward, the Ward hill of Hoy can be seen 
at the distance of 42 miles, and is i*eadily known from any other of the 
hills in Orkney, or from the Paps of Caithness, by the sudden fall or cliff- 
like appearance of the west side, and by a smaU conical lump on the south 
end of the long ridge which slopes gently from the highest point. 

OBXTBAikXi BntBCTZOirs. — With a fair wind and clear weather, there 
is no difficulty in navigating in the vicinity of the Orkneys ; but, with the 
exception of about two months in the year, namely, from the middle of 
June to the middle of August, gales of wind and thick weather are of 
frequent occurrence, and it requires more than an ordinary degree of 
vigilance to insure the safety of a vessel. The numerous wrecks, however, 
prove not only the difficulty of Orkney navigation, but too often the 
negligence and inefficiency of the master of the vessel. At one time a 
vessel has been known to run ashore from having been laid-to with her 
head towards the land in a strong gale and thick fog ; another runs upon 
the Reef-dike after having sighted the Start, only 4 miles distant; some, 
again, lie-to for days together, and suffer themselves to drift helplessly to 
destruction. Vessels are subjected to too many unavoidable casualties in 
these latitudes to have them unnecessarily increased. Constant vigilance 
on the part of those in charge is of the first importance, for without it, 
neither instructions nor experience will avail. 

In the latitude of the Orkneys, little dependence can be placed upon 
getting astronomical observations, but no opportunity should be neglected 

* Orkney Herald, 1861. 



CHAP, v.] GENERAL DTEEOTIONS, — WESTERN COAST. 87 

of obtaining at least an approximate latitude. The most important part of 
the dead reckoning will be the allowance for the influence of the tide-stream, 
and the deep-sea lead should never be neglected, for it may be assumed 
with tolerable certainty, that its frequent use would prevent more than 
half of the wrecks which now take place ; the majority of which occur in 
bad weather, either in scudding before a gale, or when the sail has been so 
reduced that the vessel is doing little more than Ijing-to, and when soundings 
would have been easily obtained. 

The difficulty of navigating in the vicinity of the Orkneys varies, of 
course, with the season of the year. For 116 days there is, properly 
speaking, no night — aQ advantage every seaman can appreciate. Neither 
does the sea, from the middle of May to the middle of August, rise to the 
height it does in the winter months ; then, the rapid tide-streams running 
round the north end of the Orkneys, and throughout the whole space 
between that group and Shetland, raise a sea dangerous to vessels contending 
against it, and it is the more prudent course under such circumstances, to 
seek shelter among the Orkneys. Hoy head and Noup head upon the 
west side, and Copinsha and Fentland skerries upon the east side, are 
points not easily mistaken. The Noup of Westra once recognised, renders 
the harbour of Pierowall available for shelter, without any other assistance 
than the following directions afford. In easterly winds, the well-marked 
islet Copinsha is equally useful as a landfall for distinguishing the position 
of Deer sound — another excellent harbour, possessing ample space and a 
clear approach. 

Respecting temporary anchorages, a great diflerence should be made 
according to the season of the year. From May to August it will be suffi- 
cient if a vessel anchor well out of the stream of tide, for the nights are 
then seldom so dark as to prevent her getting under way with a shift of 
wind ; but in the other portions of the year, some land-looked harbour 
should be secured before night-fall. When, however, from adverse wind 
or tide, this cannot be eflected, the most sheltered part of the nearest 
roadstead and the best holding ground should be selected, so as to prevent 
being driven away from the anchorage by an ofT-shore gale. 

For the use of vessels going round the Orkneys and not crossing 
amongst them, a brief description will be given of the prominent points of 
the western coast ; then of the eastern coast ; and afterwards a few neces- 
sary directions for sailing about them, with the precautions to be observed 
for avoiding them in thick weather. 

ygrmBTWMK cojlbt of o&xitbt.— The navigation of the western side 
of Orkney, unlike that of the eastern, is attended with but little difficulty, 
for instead of long low points stretching seaward, the greater portion of 
it is bold and direct. 



88 ORKNEYS. — SEA MAB6IN AND APPBOACHES. [chap. v. 



. — ^The whole of the western coast is free of outlying 
danger, with the single exception of the North shoal, which must always 
be a cause of anxiety to the navigator, particularly in thick weather, on 
account of its singularly detached position, the little water there is over it, 
and the heavy sea which bursts upon it, especially during and after gales 
from the westward. The North shoal is a bank of 20 and 25 fathoms, 
having on it a small and nearly perpendicular rock, which rises to within 
7 feet of the surface of low-water springs. The summit of the rock is not 
more than half the size of a boat, the lead faUing off it into deeper water. 
Around the rock there is a small patch with 12 to 18 feet upon it, but it 
does not extend for more than 20 yards in any direction, when the depths 
increase to 8, 13, and 16 fathoms ; but the bottom in the vicinity is very 
uneven, and as far as ^ of a mile to the north-east of the peak, casts of from 
9 to 16 fathoms may be found. The south-west side of the rock is very 
steep, there being a depth of 20 fathoms within a ship's length. On the 
north-west, south-west, and south-east sides, the water quickly deepens to 
30 fathoms ; but a mile to the north-east there is as little as 20 fathoms, 
and at 3 miles 30 fathoms. Half way between the shoal and the Brough 
of Birsa, in Mainland, there are 40 to 45 fathoms, stony bottom. At the 
same distance to the E.N.E. of the rock there are 55 fathoms, broken 
shells, and to the W.S.W. there are 80 fathoms, fine oozy sand; but 
with the same radius (4^ miles) to the S.S.W. 'there are only 35 fathoms, 
rock. 

The North shoal is in 69° J 3' 23" N., and 3° 34' 45" W., and from it, 
the various prominent points of Orkney bear as follows : — Noup head, 
Westra, East (southerly), 17 miles ; Costa head. North Mainland, S.E. 
(easterly), 12 J miles ; Brough of Birsa, S.S.E. | E., 9 miles ; Black craig, 
near Hoy sound, S. J E., 16 miles ; and the Old Man of Hoy, S. by W., 
20} miles. 

There are no good thwart marks for the rock, and it requires a clear 
day to make use of those known to the fishermen, but neither iu fine nor 
coarse weather are indications wanting of its position, for in the former 
case the ripple of the tide as distinctly points it out, as the bui-sting sea in 
the latter. 

The direction of the flood stream past the rock is E. by S., and that of 
the ebb stream W. by N., and the rate of springs is 2 miles per hour, and 
of neaps about 1 mile. The effect of the tide-stream over the North shoal, 
and about the Orkneys generally, is quite disproportioned to its rate, a 
much greater turbulence being caused thereby than is usually the case. 

To pass 10 miles to the northward of the North shoal, the Noup of 
Westra must be kept to the southward of S.E. f E., and to clear it the 
same distance to the southward, Hoy hill must be kept to the eastward of 



CHAP, v.] NOETH SHOAL. — ^WESTERN COAST OF ORKNEY. 89 

S. by E. While the Brough of Birsa is to the southward of S. by E., a 
vessel will be 5 miles to the northward of the rock, und she will be an 

* 

equal distance from it to the southward while the Brough is to the east- 
ward of E.S.E. J S. 

Vessels coming from the westward may, if the weather be clear, run for 
the Noup of Westra upon the parallel of 59° 20', but they must be careful 
not to be to the southward of that latitude to avoid the North shoal. 
Fitty hill, the highest land of Westra, may be seen 28 miles off. In 
winter, when the nights are long and dark, it will be prudent to keep to 
the northward of the latitude of Fair isle (59° 33'), so as to insure passing 
clear of the Orkneys. 

The western coast of Orkney is well marked by prominent objects. 

Tbe WOVF BBAD of "WSSTSA is 240 fect high, and exhibits a range 
of fine cliffs (a view is given on page 122). It may be seen at the distance 
of 20 miles. The Brough of Birsa bears from it W.S.W. f S. 14 miles. 
From the Noup of Westra the coast trends southerly into Westra firth, of 
which the Noup may be considered as the north point. 

Tbe B&ovaB of BZX8A is connected with Mainland by a reef that dries 
at half tide, but it usually appears as an islet lying a short distance from 
the shore. It is only 95 feet high ; but as there is a remarkable triangular 
shaped rock nearly joining the foot of the cliff, and the perpendicular cliffy 
Marwick head, 263 feet high, is only 2 miles to the southward ; the 
Brough of Birsa may be easily recognised. 




Brough of Birsa. S.W. by W. j W.— 2 rnUes. 

The sandy bay of Skail is the only interruption to the rocky coast of 
the western side of Mainland, the highest part of which is the bold cliff, 
Black craig (400 feet), immediately to the northward of Hoy sound. The 
west side of Hoy consists of a range of high red cliffs, varying from 500 to 
1,000 feet in height, except where the land falls into the small rocky bay of 
Backwick. Hoy head, which is elevated 1,000 feet may be known when 
seen from the northward or southward by a detached perpendicular stack, 
called the Old Man of Hoy. 

The whole of the western coast, from the Brough of Birsa to Berry 
head, in Hoy, a distance of 20 miles, is bold, high, nearly continuous and 
steep-to, and although between the Brough of Birsa and the Noup of Westra 
the land falls in to the south-east, so as to have a broad and open firth ; 
yet the coast on both sides is so high, that it will generally be seen in time 
to prevent any mistake. 



90 ORKNEYS. — SEA MABGIN AND APPBOACHES. [chap. v. 



COAST of OBXWBT. — ^From the Mull of Papa Westra to Seal 
skerry, at the north-east end of North Ronaldsha, is E. bj S. | S.» 15 miles ; 
and this line of bearing leads If miles to the northward of the Buna- 
brake. 



AJf ■ ^ ■ ■ ■■ » ■■ 



Dennis Ness —Beacon — ^Lighthouse. 

HOSTS SOVAXASBA ZB&AJTD^ — The island of North Bonaldsha is, 
in its highest part, only 48 feet above high water. Dennis ness, the north- 
east extremity, low and rocky, is in 59° 23' 2" N., and 2° 22' 2" W. ; it is 
distinguished by a beacon. 

&ZOBT. — The lighthouse is built of brick and situated on a small 
eminence near the north part of the point, about half a mile from the 
beacon ; it exhibits, at an elevation of 140 feet above high water, a bright 
light, which flashes every 10 seconds, and may be seen 17 miles distant in 
clear weather. 

Seal skerry, which is close to the lighthouse, must be carefully avoided, 
as the tide runs strongly over it. 




Start point, N.N.E. | E. 2 miles. 

P.— The Start, the next point to the southward, is one 
of the most dangerous in Britain, and before the erection of the lighthouse, 
many vessels were wrecked upon it. Two-thirds of Sanda, or 7 miles of 
it, stretches out as a long point, no part of which is more than 60 feet 
above high water, while many portions of it are but little above the level 
of the highest tides ; the houses on it are, consequently, the more con- 
spicuous objects, and very little haze serves to obscure the whole. The 
Start point is a small flat islet, connected to Sanda at half tide. In 1802, 
a tower was built on it to serve as a beacon, which, in 1805, was converted 
into a lighthouse, and first used as such on the 1st of January 1806. 

&ZOBT. — The Start lighthouse is built on the east point of Sanda 
island, is coloured white, and exhibits, at an elevation of 1 00 feet above 
high water, ^ fixed red light, which should be visible in clear weather from 
a distance of 15 miles. 



is a low peninsula, forming the western extremity of Tres 
Ness bay ; there is a barrow or mound upon the west side of it, but not 
very conspicuous, and a large farm-house stands at its inner end. The 
bay, which is 5 miles across, is sandy throughout, and bounded in places 
by sand-hills. The larger proportion of wrecks upon the eastern coast olT 



CHAP, v.] 



EASTERN COAST OF ORKNEY. 



91 



Orkney take place in it, for in hazy weather the land can scarcely be seen 
until it is too late to clear it on either tack. 

From Tres Ness the land trends to the westward, where the holm of 
Huip may be recognised by its conical outline ; it is about 60 feet high 
with a barrow on its summit. It will be fortunate for the mariner who 
may be caught here in easterly gales to be able to distinguish it, for upon 
the west side of the holm is an excellent anchorage in 4 or 6 fathoms, oozy 
bottom. 

Sanda sound is between Tres Ness and Papa Stronsa ; the latter is a 
small flat islet, which, when seen from the eastward, appears to be part of 
Stronsa, but a windmill and a large white farm-house with outbuildings 
serve to distinguish it. 



>, in Stronsa, 114 feet high, is a well-marked object. 




Burgh Head, S.S.W. J W. 6 miles. 



AVBXBSST, a flat green islet, a little farther to the south-westward, 
might, in thick weathei', be easily mistaken for the Great Pentland skerry, 
were it not that on the latter there are two lighthouses, whereas on 
Auskerry there is only one. The south part of Stronsa has also a con- 
siderable resemblance to the south part of South Ronaldsha, but Lamb 
head is unlike Old head, and the clifl* Stow head has no counterpart in 
Stronsa, the middle of which is low. 




Auskerry, N.N.E. J E. 4 miles. 

•. — The lighthouse on Auskerry is situated on the south part of 
the island, is built of white bricks, and exhibits, at an elevation of 110 feet 
above high water, a fixed bright light, which should be visible in clear 
weather from a distance of 16 miles. 

Tbe vusIbIm of DEB&irB88, as its name implies, is a high and bold pro- 
montory, with no dangers near it but what are visible, and the bearing of 
Copinsha, S. | W. 4| miles, will, in most cases, serve to identify it. 




Mull of Deemess, W. by N. } N. 2 miles. 



02 



OBKNBTS. — SEA MABGIN AND APPE0ACHE8. [chap. v. 



Stronsa firth opens between Anskeny and the Mull of Deem ess, and 
vessels sometimes enter it in thick weather without seeing the land upon 
either side. In this case, the east coast of Shapinsha is the land that will 
be first sighted ; the Foot is a high perpendicular cliff, but the rest of the 
coast is low ; it is, however, clear of outlying dangers. 

GOPnrsBA, an islet S.W. (southerly) 24J miles from the Start light- 
house, and N.E. | E. (easterly) 14| mUes from Pentland skerries, is an 




Copinsha, S.S.W. f W. 3 miles. 

excellent landmark for the eastern coast of Orkney. It presents to the 
eastward a perpendicular range of cliff, 211 feet high, from which it slopes 




Copinsha, N. ^ W. 4 miles. 

to the westward, so that when viewed in profile, its outline is a right- 
angled triangle. Copinsha can never be mistaken for any other part of 
Orkney, as there is a square stack rock, called the Horse of Ciopinsha, 
perpendicular on all sides, and 59 feet high, at the distance of ^ a mile 
from its north end. 

I9 to the north-west of Copinsha is t|ie small bay of Sandisend, having 
at the head of it a low sandy isthmus, over which the sea breaks in stormy 
weather. This isthmus, separating Deer sound from the bay of Sandisend, 
is not visible a few miles off, and the apparent opening has often been 
mistaken for the entrance to Holm sound. To avoid being embayed, 
Copinsha must not be brought to the southward of E. by S. which is the 
bearing of the islet from Rose Ness, the north-east side of the entrance to 
Holm sound ; but a far surer mark for this passage, and one which will 
prevent Sandisend bay being mistaken for it, is the Horse of Copinsha 
kept open to the eastward of the holms of Copinsha until Holm sound has 
been opened. 




Copinsha ; the Horse, E. f N. 

\, at the north-east part of South Ronaldsha, is a rocky point 
50 feetiiigh ; there is a great similarity between it and Rose Ness, and it 
is to be regretted that a beacon has not been placed on the latter, so as to 
distinguish it in thick weather. Stow or Stowse head, about midway 



CHAP, v.] DIRECTIONS. 93 

along the coast of South Ronaldsha, never appears as a pomt, but it is the 
highest portion of cliff in the island. It is in the bight between Grim Ness 
and Halcro head ; upon its north side is a sandy bay, and farther north- 
"ward, the kirk and manse stand upon a low rocky shore, within which 
there is some amount of aS^ble land. 



\, a couple of miles from Stow head, is a bold headland, 

bounded by perpendicular cliffs trending to the north-westward into 

Windwick. Care must be observed not to mistake this head for that of 

Duncansby, an error which has sometimes proved fatal. There not being 

a stack here as at Duncansby should excite suspicion, besides, the land 

does not fall in from Halcro bead for more than a mile, and the high cliffs 

of Stow head, a little to the northward of it, will, with common attention, 

be seen in time to prevent accident. Should, however, a vessel have run 

so far down upon the coast as to be unable to weather Old head, then she 

should endeavour to weather Stow head, and beach in the sandy bay to 

the northward of it, as affording the best chance of saving the lives of tbe 

crew. 

o&B BEAD is not a bold point, as it rounds down considerably towards 
the cliffs, which are only about 60 feet high. It is possible to mistake 
Grim Ness for it, but as the Pentland skerries are only 2| miles off, 
suspicion will be excited if they cannot be seen,* 



;. — From the westward, there is no particular difficulty in 
going north of the Orkneys, in passing through between the islands, or to 
the southward of the Pentland firth. A departure from cape Wrath 
or from any other of the promontories upon the north coast of Scotland, 
would always ensure a landfall being made with precision ; afterwards, the 
bold character of the western shores of the group, and their nearly entire 
freedom from danger, render navigation in their vicinity comparatively 
easy. But the case is altogether different when rounding the Orkneys 
in thick weather, either from the southward or eastward, and the 
following brief instructions have, therefore, special reference to these latter 
circumstances. 

Closing the OIULlTSTS firom the Bouthward. — From Kinnaird head 
lighthouse to Pentland skerries lighthouses is N. ^ W. (westerly) 66 miles ; 
to Copinsha N. J E. (northerly) 75 miles ; and to the Start lighthouse, 
Sanda, N. by E. ^ E. (northerly) 95^ miles. 

Should a vessel, bound through the Pentland firth, have run her distance 
to it from Kinnaird head and then meet with thick or foggy weather, it will 

* For a description of Pentland skerries, Duncansby head, &c., see North Sea Pilot, 
Part n., Chap. II. 



94 ORKNEYS. — SEA MABGIK AND APPBOACHES. [chap. v. 

be prudent to shorten sail and heave to, for it woold be difficult, under such 
circumstances^ to distinguish between the coasts of Caithness and Orkney — 
between Duncansbj and Old heads — and a mistake would probably be 
fataL Having hove-to, soundings should be obtained ; if the depth is fiK)m 
40 to 45 £a.thoms, the land wHl be at least 5 miles to the westward ; rocky 
bottom would show the vessel to be in the stream of the Pentland firth, 
and fine sand, to the northward or southward of it. Should the weather 
continue so thick as to prevent the firth being run for without risk, a 
course should be shaped for going round the Start. From Pentland 
skerries to Copinsha is N.E. | E. (easterly) 14^ miles, and, consequently, 
by steering that course, a vessel will pass as far to the eastward of 
Copinsha as she was to the eastward of the Pentland skerries, and the same 
course may be continued until the whole distance to the Start has been 
run. To make the course good, it is necessary in bad weather to have the 
wind a point free, that is, it should not be more to the eastward than 
S.E. ^ E., a circumstance that must be borne in mind when thick 
weather is coming on, or is apprehended. 

«earlii§r the OMMMMTB ftom tbe eastward — ^Vessels coming from the 
eastward will do well to sight Fair isle, and, if the^weather is not fine, to 
shape a course so as to pass through *^ the Hole," the passage between 
Fair isle and Sumburgh head ; for the south end of Shetland being very 
high, will at all times be seen at a much greater distance than the low 
land of the north of Orkney, while the light on Sumburgh head may also 
be seen at twice the distance that those on the Start and Dennis ness are 
visible. 

Fair isle, (a full description of which is given in page 4,) shows 33 miles 
off in clear weather, and as its outline is too remarkable to admit of its 
being mistaken for any neighbouring land, it serves by day as an excellent 
beacon for the above passage ; at night, however, or when, from thick 
weather or other cause, uncertainty may ezist^ great caution will be 
necessary. Supposing Fair isle to be in the course of the vessel, and 
Sumburgh head light in sight, so long as the latter is to the northward 
of N.E. ^ N., the vessel will be 5 miles to the eastward of the isle, and 
she will be the same distance to the westward of it while the light is 
to the eastward of E.N.E. In very thick weather it will be prudent 
to heave to, or to shorten sail and proceed slowly, guided by the 
soundings. 

sommnrcMBi. — Bespecting the soundings, there is one fact of great 
practical utility ; the line of 35 fathoms runs nearly straight along the 
whole of the eastern side of Orkney, and it is also important to remember, 
that it does not bend into the firths or bays. Its direction is E.N.E. | N., 
or parallel to the general run of the coast, and its average distance from 



CHAP, v.] DIEBCTIONS. — SOXTNDIKGS. — TIDES. 96 

thd varioas headlands is 3 miles ; so long, thereforei as a vessel is in a 
greater depth of water, she will be at least a moderate berth outside all 
the projecting points. 

At from 4 to 10 miles off shore, as far north as the latitude of Lamb 
head, the depths are from 40 to 45 fathoms, and the bottom is a fine clear 
sand with a veiy regular surface, for 50 fathoms is only found 12 miles 
from the land, and the nature of the bottom is the same throughout. 

In-shore, to the northward of Lamb head, the depths and the quality of 
the bottom are more variable. Within the line of that head and Start 
point, that is, in the deep bay or sound between Stronsa and Sanda, the 
greatest depth is 23 fathoms, and the bottom affords no guide, as it varies 
continually between patches of rock, sand, and broken shells. It is, how- 
ever, of advantage to know that when a vessel is in a greater depth than 
30 fathoms she is without the limits of this dangerous bay. 

About 4 miles to the eastward of Lamb head there are 40 fathoms over 
fine sand ; further to the northward there are broken shells, and on 
nearing the Start, the bottom is rocky, with coarse fragments of mussel 
shells. Three miles off the Start there are from 38 to 40 fathoms over 
rocks and broken mussel shells. 

Upon the east side of North Bonaldsha^ 2| miles from the shore, the 
ground is rocky and uneven, and the depths are from 24 to 40 fathoms, 
and about 3 miles to the north-eastward of Seal skerry, the depth is 
30 fathoms over a bottom of similar quality. 

By attending closely to the foregoing description of the depths and the 
nature of the bottom, it will be easy to pass to the eastward of the Orkneys 
in thick weather with safety. Thus, a vessel being caught in a fog or 
misty weather when within 15 miles of Pentland skerries, and having 
about 35 fathoms over a sandy bottom, will, by steering E.N.E. f N., 
quickly deepen the water to 40 fathoms, and it is only necessary to keep 
in that depth to pass round the Orkneys. 



(. — The mean rise of the tide at springs in the north isles of the 
Orkneys is 11 feet 2 inches, and at neaps 7 feet 11 inches; neaps range 
4 feet 6 inches. In the south isles the mean rise at springs is 10 feet, 
and at neaps 7 feet ; neaps range 4 feet. Extraordinary springs may be 
3 feet 4 inches above or below the mean. The tide-stream upon the 
eastern coast of Orkney is weak, seldom exceeding 1^ knots in springs, 
except in the neighbourhood of Pentland and Stronsa firths, in the wake 
of which, during the fiood, roosts generally extend for some miles seaward ; 
but round the north end of Orkney the tide-stream passes with great velo- 
city. Off the Start and Dennis ness, there is a heavy bursting sea when 
the direction of the stream is against the wind, so that in most cases these 



98 



CHAPTER VL 

ORKNEYS.— NORTH SOUND AND NORTH RONALDSHA FIRTH, 



Vabiation in 1876. 
NoupHead - 22** 56' W. | . DenniBNess - 22«»30'W. 



The North Sound, contained between Westra to the westward and Sanda 
to the eastward, is sometimes called **the Sand," from its having a sandy 
bottom nearly throughout; the ayerage depth is 25 fathoms, and the tide- 
streams in it are very weak.* 

"WMBTRA^ iroSTB 8ZDB« — ^Noup head, or, as it is more commonly 
termed, the Noup of Westra, the north-west extremity of the island, is a 
promontory, 1^ miles in length, shelving and low to the northward, but 
bordered to the south-westward by bold cliffs, increasing in height towards 
the Noup, which is 240 feet high, and, therefore, a conspicuous and easily 
distinguished object. As is commonly the case with bold headlands, but 
few wrecks occur near it. 

Under the north-east part of the Noup are several flat skerries, named 
the Lees, or Lois ; they are close to the shore, and always above water. 

Saokwiek, a bay between Our Ness and the -peninsula of Aikemess, is 
nearly filled up by a broad fiat shelf or reef, the sea-weed on which shows 
at low springs, and there is as little as 6 or 7 feet upon it at -^ a mile from 
the shore. Vessels should avoid this dangerous bight, in which the sea 
often breaks in 12 fathoms. In moderate weather, they will pass outside 
all its dangers by keeping the cottages of Noup, or the dear yellow 
sandy margin of Noup bay, open of Our Ness. In Noup bay there is no 
anchorage. 

Bow and Bolm of AlkernoM. — The Bow of Aikemess is a flat skerry 
lying out to the northteast of Bow head, and nearly joined to the shore 
at low water. As the tide-stream runs rapidly over and past this rock, 
vessels should keep well to the northward of the line of Noup and Mull 
heads. The Bow is cleared to the north-west, by keeping the sandy strand 
of Noup bay in sight outside Our Ness. 

The Holm of Aikemess, or Aikemess skerry, situated towards the 
middle of the north entry to the sound between Westra and Papa Westra, 

* See Admiralty diarts:— Orkney islands, Ko. 2,180; seale, m— 0-5 inches; and 
North Bonaldsha firtfa* No. S,569 1 scale, m*2^ inches 



CHAP. VI.] WESTBA, NOETH SIDE. 99 

dries for f of a mile at low water, aod is then connected with the shore of 
Aikemess. At high water, three small patches only of it are visible ; the 
two northernmost are grass-covered, t^e third, named Shell holm, is bare 
and sandy ; reefs dry out from the latter for 2 cables, and the whole of 
the south side is very flat ; a sandbank, with 6 to 11 feet upon it, skirting 
the shore for more than a mile to the southward. 

The southern portion of the sound between Westra and Papa Westra, is 
a hai'bonr of refuge to vessels prevented by contrary winds from passing 
to the northward of the Orkneys, but that which constitutes its safety as 
an anchorage takes from its value as a channel, for the navigation is 
intricate and shallow, and in strong westerly winds, a dangerous roost is 
formed at the northern entrance. 



has its north-east extremity at Mull head, or the Mull 
of Papa, a headland 100 feet high. A reef extends from its north side, 
across which, the tide-stream rushes with great impetuosity to within a 
boat's length of the shore. There is generally a bad roost off the Mull, 
named the Bore, which extends in westerly winds and during the ebb 
stream, for some miles to the northward. The bottom is rocky and uneven, 
and the sea breaks in 20 fathoms. The Bore is exceedingly dangerous, 
especially in the hard gales of winter ; during summer, and in moderate 
weather, vessels may pass within \ a mile of the head in safety. 

Boosts — ^The dangerous tideway mentioned as existing between the Mull 
of Papa and Aikemess, at the north entry to the sound, is termed the 
Boost, to distinguish it from the Bore. 

CAirrzoir.— -The passage from the westward round the north end of the 
Orkneys, is rendered somewhat treacherous by the peculiar set of the tide, 
for as the body of the flood stream comes from the north-west, a vessel 
must be 6 or 7 miles to the northward of the Mull of Papa to drift clear 
of North Bonaldsha. The first half of the flood sets from the MuU right 
for North Bonaldsha (E.S.E. ^ S.), and should the wind fail while the 
flood is running there would be a great probability of the vessel drifting 
ashore. 

The flood stream passes slowly the north coast of Westra, (sending [a 
weak off-set between Papa and Aiker Ness,) and joins the main stream and 
the Bore off Mull head. The tide here runs about 6 knots, and between 
Papa and North Bonaldsha 3 knots, but near North Bonaldsha the rate 
again increases to 6 knots. 

On North Ness, a low rocky point, is a sheep-pen, appearing at flrst sight 
as the ruin of a Mortella tower. Abreast it are some sunken ledges lying 
out from the shore, which, from the Mull to the hohn of Papa^ should have 
a berth of ^ of a mile. 

a 2 



98 ^"^"^ 

• 

, IS a sman green 

tiie east^ and termi- 

,. the highest part are the 

nFTAP T RR ^ inarks for the Banabrake. 

^^ sound, capable of admitting 
ORKNEYS.— NORTH SOUND AS^ ^ ^ space with 10 feet in it, bnt 

/^6 swell which rolls into the harbour 

-^ '.'^gioed the North Taing, projects firom 
Noup Head - 29'^ .-^^ end ci the holm, leaving between them 

^ ^flie north end of the holm is fool for a cable. 
The North Soar • ' '-^#< ^ ^*™® distance from its south end, 

to the eastwar^^ ^. -'^'^ between Moclet point and Vest Ness, the south 
bottom nep^'^^ . ;>^ ^f Papa Westra, and affords safe anchorage in 
streamp ^ ^^ Ce^eia, as the shores are clean and the bottom is good. 
^- *]i^ ifitb^ the line of the points there are 5 and 6 fibthoms, 
. -^*i'''*^ ifsfcer shoals gradually towards every part of the shore. 

^ tbe south-west point of Papa Westra, has a reef .extending 

^ far 0^>'^7 ^ cables ; and a mile to the northward of it, off the 

^ ^^^akaskal, is the skerry of Bakaskal, a rocky shoal, joined to the 

^''^^ jow-water springs, and fronted to the westward and south-westward 

'^extenme sandbank, which, with the holm of Aikemess, bounds the 

"forage of Pierowall to the northward. 



SXDa. — The east side of Papa Westra is clear and 
l^ld to within the distance of a cable, but the eastern coast of Westra on 
tbe contrary, is not by any means to be made free with. 

staaaar Bead, the only bluff .upon the east side of Westra, presents a 
front of bold cliffs 150 feet high ; to the southward, a range of clifis 
extends to Weather Ness, clear to the rock edges. Upon the north side of 
the head, the land falls into the rocky bight of Backwick, and from thence, 
the coast of Westra is indented by a succession of shallow bays as far as 
Pierowall, and for the whole extent the shore is fronted by rocky ledges. 



r is a detached rock awash at high water, but at 
> low- water springs it dries for 2 cables ; the water is shallow, and the bottom 
uneven about it, and the northern extremity of it is a sunken reef, a cable 
long, and named the Bow. Between Skelwick skerry and the Little skerry 
within it, there is a depth of 18 feet at low water, but it is no passage for 
vessels. From the highest point of Skelwick skerry, Stangar head bears 
South 1| miles ; the mansion of Cleat N.W. | W. 2 miles ; windmill on 
Papa Westra N. by E. 3 miles ; and the holm of Papa N.E. by N. i N. 
rather more than 3^ miles. 



CHAP. VI.] WBSTBA, EAST SIDE. — PIEROWALL. 101 

The pile on Erival hill well open of the point upon the west side of the 

itrance into the harbour of Papa Westra, clears Skelwick skerry passing 

he eastward ; the point of Aiker Ness, in Westra, shut in a little behind 

Ness clears its north-east side, and the mansion of Cleat open to the 

yard of the Store on Spo Ness leads to the north-westward of it. 

skerry is greatly in the way of vessels bound to Pierowall, and 
. tiave a beacon upon it, as the marks for avoiding it cannot be seen in 
.iiisty weather. Within the skerry is Skelwick, where coastere occasionally 
anchor in the summer, but the ground is rocky, and the place unsafe. 

The next point to the westward is Spo Ness, on which there is a slate- 
roofed storehouse, and it is fronted by a reef extending 1^ cables from the 
shore. The same leading-mark clears this and the reefs off the adjacent 
points of Snook and Cleat, namely, Noltland castle on with the cots upon 
the point of Skafha N. W. by W., or Noltland castle open to the northward 
of Brough store. 

A reef of 3 cables'-lengths extends from Snook point, with deep water 
close to the end of it ; at high water the reef is covered, and very deceptive. 
Besides the marks given above for clearing it, the houses of Brough kept 
open of the point of Cleat, leads outside it to the northward. 

The bay of Cleat takes its name from the mansion of Cleat^ a con- 
spicuous object on the shore, and affords good anchorage with off-shore 
winds. The point of Cleat, between Cleat bay and the shallow rocky bay 
of Brough, must have a berth of 2 cables given it. 

vzBHO'WA&Xi BASBOvm.* — ^From the point of Brough, a broad fiat 
extends to the north-eaist for nearly } a mile, forming the south side of 
the entrance to the harbour of Pierowall, and adding materially to the 
difficulty of navigating it. In the outer harbour there are 3 and 4 fathoms, 
muddy sand, but the inner harbour, or head of the bay, is nearly filled 
with sand, having a depth of only 3 or 4 feet over it. The anchorage in 
the outer harbour is a little within the storehouse of Brough, and rather 
towards the north side, where vessels may lie in all winds. Within this 
position, the water shoals quickly, and between the points of Gill and 
Skafha there is only a depth of 16 feet. The entrance into the outer 
harbour is contracted to 3 cables by the flat from Brough point. The 
navigation of the passage would be much facilitated were a buoy placed 
upon the edge of the flat. 

Upon the north side of Pierowall to Ous Ness the shore is clear, and 
there is a depth of 12 feet within a cable of it. 

Tbe Boadstead of Pierowall, between Westra and Papa Westra, and 
abreast the harbour of the same name, is a safe anchorage for vessels 

* See Admiralty chart of Fieroirall road, No. 2,582 ; sc^e, iti = 8 inches. 



102 ORKNEYS. — ^NORTH SOUND. [chap.vi. 

of any draft of water, for there is never sufficient sea in it to cause a 
yessel of burden to part her cable, and the ground is of excellent quality. 
There is no doubt it will become, when better known, the common refuge 
harbour to vessels detained by adverse winds £rom proceeding north of 
the Orkneys, whether from the eastward or westward. It is easy of 
•access, for though the eastern shore of Westra, as already described, is 
bounded by long reefs, the opposite one of Papa Westra is bold and clean. 
The approach between Vest Ness and Spo Ness is a mile wide, and the 
tide-stream in it is never so strong as to prevent a vessel working over it 
in a moderate breeze. 

BnuKSTZOVB. — ^With a leading wind, all dangers will be avoided by 
keeping nearer to Papa Westra than to Westra ; give Vest Ness a berth of 
3 cables in passing it, and when within the latter, the anchorage has been 
reached. There is excellent holding ground all the way across; but 
vessels of cohsiderable draft should anchor nearer to Vest Ness than to 
Ous Ness, to be clear of the sandbank of 3^ fathoms upon the western 
side. A quarter of a mile to the northward of Vest Ness is a stony beach, 
and the best berth for a vessel of burthen is ^ a mile to the westward of it, 
in 8 fathoms, sand, with Mull head touching the high-water boundary of 
the west side of Papa Westra, and Noltland castle open of the high-water 
boundary of Ous Ness. 

CAVTZOV must be ol)served in taking up the above anchorage not to go 
too far to the northward of Vest Ness, on account of the sandy bank lying 
out £rom Papa Westra. 

There is also a good roadstead outside Ous Ness, off the entrance to 
Pierowall harbour, for vessels which are detained by westerly winds ; the 
depth is 5 fathoms, and the mark, the house of Brakewall, open of the 
point of Skafha. 

To proceed into Pierowall harbour, the house of Brakewall must be kept 
open of the point of Skafha in order to clear the reef off Brough point. 
Fore-and-aft vessels may turn in or out by attending to the above mark, 
and by giving the north shore a berth of a cable. Anchor towards the 
north side a little without the point of Gill, in 3^ fathoms, clay. 

If working towards Pierowall from the southward, the skerry of Skel- 
wick is the first danger to be avoided. It may generally be seen, as it is 
just awash at high water ; but the seaman must not, on that account, 
make too free with it, for, as it runs off flat, he may be ashore before seeing 
the rock. There are no good marks for clearing it to the eastward, and 
therefore it must be given a wide berth. The bearings already mentioned 
will, however, serve to point out its approximate position. Vessels may 
haul to the wind round the skerry as soon as the house of Cleat appears 
open to the northward of the storehouse on Spo Ness ; for the remainder 



OHAF.vi.] / DIBEOTIONS. — NOETH BONALDSHA. 103 

of the distance, give the shore of Papa Westra a berth of ^ of a mile, and in 
standing towards Westra, keep Noltland castle open to the northward of 
Brough store ; but should this mark not be seen, tack to the northward 
when midway across the sound. Having weathered Vest Kess, anchorage 
may be taken up as before directed. 

Should a vessel be compelled by circumstances to run through the roost, 
in the passage between Papa Westi^a and the holm of Aiker Ness, mid- 
channel should be adhered to until abreast of Shell holm ; then haul two 
or three points to the westward to clear the ^kerry of Bakaskal, taking 
care, however, to have Garth house well open to the eastward of the banks 
of Cleat, for. upon the same line of bearing, they lead into as little as 
6 feet water over the bank extending from Shell holm. 

A buoy upon the skerry of Bakaskal would render this channel more 
available, but it must always be considered an unsafe one, on account of 
the ebb-tide roost which fronts it. 

wonTB HOiTA&BSBA. — The most conspicuous objects upon North 
Ronaldsha are Holland house and the Free kirk and manse, standing on 
the highest ridge of the island, which is only 48 feet above the sea. 
These houses and the new lighthouse appear before Dennis Ness beacon 
is visible. On a nearer approach, the island is seen to be well cultivated, 
and plentifully studded with the dark-coloured cottages of the islanders. 

BBVirzs wmsB bbacoit and AZOBTHOiTSB. — ^Dennis ness, already 
partially described, and a view given of it on page 90, is a low rocky point, 
shelving off for a cable to the eastward. The beacon, a cylindrical tower 
of masonry, 70 feet high^ with a ball on its summit, was originally a light- 
house, it having been erected for that purpose in 1789, and lighted on the 
10th of October the same year; but it being found after twelve years' 
experience, that this light did not prevent numerous wrecks ' taking place 
on the islands Sanda and Stronsa, the light on the Start was exhibited ; 
and it not being considered necessary to have two lights so close together, 
that on Dennis ness was discontinued afler the 1st of June 1809. Further 
experience proved, however, that the removal of the light to the Start had 
merely had the effect of transferring the scene of wreckage to North 
Ronaldsha, and another lighthouse has therefore been built on a small 
eminence at the north part of Dennis ness, about ^ a mile from the beacon, 
and from it a bright light now Jitishes every 10 seconds, at a height of 140 
feet above the sea ; it may be seen 17 ^les off in clear weather. The 
roofless cottages of its former light-keepers still remain about the beacon, 
which, together with the new lighthouse, serve, in thick weather, to 
distinguish Dennis ness from the Start. 

seaif or Selch skerry, is a rocky flat extending more than ^ a mile from 
the north part of Dennis ness ; the north end of it is N. | W. rather more 



104i OBKNEYS. — NORTH EOKALDSHA PIETH. [chap, vi. 

than a mile from the beacon, and E.N.E. nearly 1| miles from Torn Ness. 
The highest part of the skerrj is awash at high tides, but at low water it is 
uncovered for 3 cables, and is then separated from the island only by a 
narrow boat channel. This is a dangerous rock, and should always have a 
berth of at least -^ a mile, at which distance there is a depth of 20 fathoms. 

CAmnoir. — ^The flood-stream runs 6 knots near North Eonaldsha, 
passing over the Altars of linnay and Seal skerry with great velocity. 
Vessels may be set ashore, in a calm, on the Seal, either by flood or ebb, for 
the flood-stream from the Altars of Linnay runs straight for Seal skerry ; 
and upon the east side, during flood, there is a strong eddy setting directly 
for the point of the skerry. There is also a bad roost off Seal skerry with 
southerly winds. 

Altars of Unnay, or Linna, upon the north side of Torri Ness, the 
north-west point of North Honaldsha, are patches of rock, visible at low- 
water springs, and fronted on the outer side by a reef, 3 cables broad, 
while the intermediate coast to Seal skerry is foul and dangerous. The 
flood-stream setting right over the Altars, it is necessary when a vessel 
is to the westward of North Ronaldsha in light winds, to keep well to the 
northward, so as to avoid having to let go an anchor. The Established 
kirk (the southernmost) in sight above the land, clears these dangers pass- 
ing to the westward, but as this is more a mark for boats than ships, it 
will be prudent, with light winds and flood-tide, to keep 2 miles to the 
northward of North Bonaldsha, for the stream sets towards the Altars of 
Linnay from several directions, and passos round the points and over the 
reef with great impetuosity. 

qpwlnffas Book, — ^The west coast of North Ronaldsha is bold, but off 
the point of Twingas is a detached reef, upon which there is a depth of 
only 11 feet at low- water springs ; it is fully 3 cables off shore, but it may 
be cleared ^ of a mile on the outer side by keeping Start lighthouse shut in 
upon Tafts Ness. 

BKaseweu, a mile to the south«west of Twingas, is a patch of rock with 
5 fathoms over it, and 8 and 9 fathoms about it, where, with the ebb-tide 
and westerly winds, the sea breaks heavily. In smooth water, the Masewell 
is no obstruction. 

Sontii Bay, between Twingas point and Strom Ness, may be used as a 
temporary anchorage in summe^r by coasters ; the best position is rather 
towards the east side, in 4 or 5 fathoms, sandy bottom. 

Strom iresB may be known by a small round elevation upon it, probably 
the site of some ancient building. A reef, uncovered at low water^ 
extends a short distance from the point, round which the tide-stream runs 
rapidly. Vessels may anchor temporarily between Strom Ness and Brides 



CHAP. VI.] TWINGAS. — MASBWELL.— REEF-DIKE. — TIDES. 106 

Ness, in 5 to 8 fjEtthoms, and be partially out of the tide ; it is, in fact, the 
only place hereabonts where a square-rigged vessel should attempt to 
anchor, but the ground is indifferent, being patches of sand over rock. 

Brides iresB is a low shelving point, with shoal water for a considerable 
distance seaward ; nor is there a greater depth than 20 feet in the passage 
between this point and the Beef-dike. 

Ainoiet Bay, between Brides Ness and Dennis Ness, is about If miles 
wide and a mile deep. The depths in the bay are from 5 to 8 fathoms, 
but the bottom is rocky, except close in-shore ; coasting vessels, however, 
may bring up in the north-west part of the bay, in 5 or 6 fathoms, sand. 
Should a vessd, bound to the westward, encounter a strong north-westerly 
gale, she may anchor in the bay to avoid being blown out to sea, but due 
care must be used to keep clear of the Beef-dike, off the south part of the 
bay. 

BSBF-DZXB is a rocky shoal, 1:^ miles long and ^ a mile wide, lying 
S.E. 1 mile from Brides Ness. It nearly dries at extraordinary springs. 
It is divided into patches, with passages from 12 to 18 feet deep between 
them. Off the south end, there is a depth of 3 fathoms at the distance of 
3 cables, and it shoals very suddenly upon the east side, where there ai'e 
12 fathoms within a cable. The Beef-dike is connected to Brides Ness by 
a narrow ridge, or bar, upon which there are 4 fathoms. From the 
shoalest part of the reef, Dennis Ness is N. by E. f E., neai'ly 2^ miles ; 
Strom Ness, W.N.W., 1§ miles ; Tafts Ness, W.S.W. J S., 2f mHes; and 
the Start lighthouse, S.S.W. ^ W., 4J miles. 

To pass a mile to the eastward of the Beef-dike, Dennis Ness beacon 
must be kept to the westward of N. ^ W., and the Start lighthouse to^ the 
westward of S.W. The point of Twingas kept open of Strom Ness, 
N.W. I N. (northerly), will clear the reef passing to the southward, and 
the manse attached to the Free kirk kept well open to the northward of 
the water-mill N.W. will clear it on the north side ; or a vessel will be to 
the northward of the Beef- dike when the flat holms of Eyre off Sanda are 
on with Strom Ness, West. The houses of Newark just open to the 
westward of the house of Tafts, S.W. by W. (southerly) (both in Sanda), 
leads through between the Beef-dike and Brides Ness, in the deepest 
water. 

The ripple of the tide or the break of the sea upon the Beef-dike, often 
makes its position very conspicuous. 

TEDBB. — ^The flood-stream splits upon the west coast of North Bonaldsha, 
with the Established kirk (the southernmost) in one with a small byre, 
and should a vessel be drifting down upon the island, she should endeavour 
to pass to the southward, when she will go clear of everything. 



106 O&KKEYS. — NO&TH BONAJiDSHA 7IETE. [ohap.ti. 

The flood-stream upon the east side of North Bon&ldaha sets only 
8 hours to the southward, for during the latter half of the tide, there is 
an eddy setting to the northward, which direction is maintained through- 
out the ebb ; making altogether 9 hours of northerly set There is no 
danger to be apprehended during the flood, but the ebb must be carefully 
guarded against while in the vicinity of the reef. For instance, a vessel 
in a calm would be drifted by the ebb directly towards the Beef-nlike 
instead of through North Ronaldsha flrth. Supposing her to be within 
\ a mile of the Start, and the ebb running, she should in that case 
endeavour to to tow the westward into the stream which sets through the 
firth ; at such times the Beef-dike will be readily distinguished, and if it 
is found that the point of Twingas is being shut in by Strom Ness, the 
anchor should be let go in about 12 fathoms water. 

A vessel in a calm a mile from the Start, would be drifted by the ebb to 
the eastward of the Beef-dike. 



8AWDA, iroATB-BAST 8ZBB. — The Start point is described, and a 
view given of it, on page 90. A reef, called the Glabrae, extends for 
2 cables from the south-east angle of the point, and another, called Lang- 
ware taing, for an equal distance to the north-eastward. A dangerous 
roost occurs off the latter for 3 or 4 miles in certain states of the tide and 
weather, especially with southerly winds and flood tide. 

soatbTA, or Skuthvy bay, between the Start and Tafts Ness, is foul and 
rocky, and affords no proper anchorage, but the traders occasionally stop 
in it for a short time to take in kelp, &c. While working abreast, it will, 
in general, be prudent to go about when the line of the points has been 
reached. 



ITBSS is low, and should not be approached nearer than 2 cables^ 
for though it is foul but a short distance off upon the north-east side, yet 
to the northward or within it, the shore is flat and shelving, and so con- 
tinues to the westward of Creso, a long reef projecting from the shore, 
the weeds on which are visible at low water for ^ of a mile. The Creso 
is particularly dangerous, for the flood-stream from the Biv sets, or rather 
splits upon it. Vessels standing towards the shore in its vicinity, should 
not go into a less depth than 7 fathoms. 

A rocky ledge with 10 to 12 fathoms upon it, stretches to the eastward 
for a mile from Tafts Ness, and on this the sea breaks heavily in bad 
weather. 

Sandquoy bay is between Creso to the eastward and the Taings of 
Torsker to the westward ; it has a fine sandy beach nearly a mile long, but 
the shore of the bay is shoal, and in some parts rocky, and it is altogether 
an unsafe anchorage. 



CHAP. VI.] SANDA> NOETH-EAST S£D£. — BUNABBAEE. 107 

Otterswick, immediately to the westward of Sandquoj bay^ is described 
on pages 110 and ill. 

Whitemill point, upon the west side of Otterswicki may be known by 
a small knoll rising near it, with a sheep-pen on its summit. A reef 
stretches out from the point to the northward for nearly ^ a mile, and is 
much in the way of vessels from the westward bound into Otterswick, 
particularly with off-shore winds. 

sxv ana MJUkB of TRBVAiT. — To the westward of Whitemill, the 
sliore is shoal and rocky to the point of Biv, an extremely dangerous reef 
•which extends from Bur Ness for nearly a mile to the northward. The 
Riv itself may be considered to be the highest point of the outer part of 
the reefy which dries at low-water springs for f of a mile, and is separated 
at that time from the point of Biv by a narrow boat-channel. There is 
as little as 6 feet water ^ a mile westward of the Biv. On the north 
extreme of the Biv there is a red beacon 34 feet high. 

The Baas of Trevan, the outermost danger of this portion of coast, -are 
^ a mile to the north-eastward of the Biv, and have as little as 13 feet 
upon them at low springs ; and as the ebb stream sets right over them, 
they are particularly dangerous to vessels leaving Otterswick in light 
winds. 

RooBwiok. — Westward of the Biv the coast is low, and the shores ai^e 
shelving and rocky in the deep bight between Biv and the holms of Eyre. 
Booswick, in the south-west part of the bight, is occasionally visited by 
lobster smacks and coasters in the summer season, but no square-rigged 
vessel should venture between the points on account of the general intricacy 
of the bay, and the velocity of the tide-stream across it. 

BO&MS of BTWH and TVO SKT. — The holms of Eyre are adjacent to 
Whal or Whalgio point, to which they are connected by reefs at half-tide : 
the holms are flat, and not more than 10 feet above high-water springs ; 
they are flanked east and west by reefs, and northward the rocks dry out 
nearly ;^ of a mile to the Lother, and in the same direction ^ a mile 
from the outer holm, is a rocky bank or spit named the Tuo, with 10 to 
12 feet over it. 



I is a rocky patch lying nearly midway between North 
Bonaldsha and Papa Westra, with 20 feet of water upon it at low-water 
springs, and 15 to 25 fathoms close about it. It is out of the way of 
vessels bound from the Mull of Papa to the northward of North Bonaldsha, 
but it is directly in the track of those running for North Bonaldsha flrth. 
In bad weather, the breaking sea upon it may be seen from a distance of 
4 or 5 miles, and at other times the rippling of the tide-stream over it is 
very distinct. 



108 ORKNEYS. — ^NOETH BOKALDSHA FIRTH. [chap.vi. 

That portion of the Bnnabrake which has less than 5 fathoms upon it is 
^ of a mile long N.E. and S. W., and about 2 cables broad ; the sea, how- 
ever, will break over the space of a mile or more in bad weather. Upon 
the west side there are 20 fathoms within a cable of the shoal, bat to the 
eastward the depths increase gradually. 

For the least water, one thwart mark is the Noup head of Westra, show- 
ing like a quoy or sheep-pen above the intervening land, a little open to the 
southward of the windmill on Papa Westra W.N.W. ^ W., or Holland 
house, in Papa Westra, appearing over the south fall of the cliff of the 
holm of Papa ; while the house of How, in Sanda, touching the west brae 
of Whal point, leads a little to the west of the shoalest water. From 
over the summit of the bank, the Start lighthouse is S.E. | S. 9^ miles ; 
Dennis Ness lighthouse, E. by S. 8 miles ; Torri Ness, E. | S. (southerly), 
6i miles ; Strom Ness, E.S.E. i S., 6 1 miles ; Tafts Ness, S.E. i S., 7i 
miles ; north holm of Eyre, S. by W. J W., 3 J miles ; Red head, S.W. ^ W., 
7| miles ; Modet point, W. f N., 8 miles ; and Mull head, Papa Westra, 
N.W. by W., yj miles. Start lighthouse open east of Tafts, clears it 
passing to the eastward, and Free kirk on Sanda open to the westward 
of Whal point leads to the westward. 

BXKBCTXOJTB. — Throughout North Bonaldsha firth, the sea during 
and after westerly gales, will at times break in 8, and even in 12 fathoms 
water. 

As the body of the firth has a rocky bottom, and the water is not 
deep, it will be better in calm weather to let go the anchor while there 
is plenty of room, and not to wait until the vessel is close down upon the 
land. 

Sunniiiff. — It is, generally, more prudent for vessels bound past the 
Orkneys, to go to the northward of North Eonaldsha so as to have the 
advantage of an open sea, but there are cases in which it is desirable to 
pass through North Bonaldsha firth ; as, for instance, when the wind 
from the eastward is so strong as to prevent sufficient sail being carried to 
weather North Bonaldsha. A vessel off the Start, with a fair wind and 
daylight, will have no difficulty in sailing through the firth ; it is only 
necessary to keep ^ a mile outside the Start and Tafts Ness, and then to 
steer a course so as to pass the same distance to the westward of Twingas ; 
but before arriving off the latter, the Start lighthouse should be brought 
over the low land of Tatts Ness upon a bearing eastward of South. From 
Twingas a N.W. ^ W. course, made good for 5 miles, will lead a mile to 
the northward of the Bunabrake, or the Start lighthouse kept open of 
the farm-house of Tafts, will clear it passing to the eastward, from whence 
the Mull head of Papa will be W.N.W. i N., 8 miles. 



CiUP.vi.] DIBrECTIONS, 109 

"vrorklnff. — If the wind be from the northward, a vessel may work 
against the tide, in moderate weather, as far as the Start, when she must 
wait till the stream turns. As long reefs extend from that point, it must 
not bo made too free with. Upon its north side there .is also foul ground, 
and no vessel should stand into Scathva bay. 

When standing to the north-eastward towards the Beef-dike, tack before 
Twingas point becomes shut in by Strom Ness ; and if the wind is light, 
keep well upon the Sanda side to avoid the set of the ebb-stream over the 
Reef-dike. 

The shore of North Ronaldsha should have a berth of at least 2 cables, 
&nd allowance must always be made for the vessel missing stays ; and as 
there id generally a roost off Twingas point, especially during and after a 
westerly wind, — sometimes even in a calm,— it will be well to avoid it 
as much as possible. 

From Tafts Ness to Creso, go no nearer to the shore than ^ a mile, and 
when standing towards Sanda abreast Otterswick, and as far as the Baas 
of Trevan, the Start lighthouse must be kept open to the eastward of the 
cottages of Tafts S.S.E. | E., so as not to lose the strength of the tide. 
The cottages referred to are those nearest to the ness ; there will, there- 
fore, be no danger of mistaking them. 

The mark just given will also lead clear of the Baas of Trevan and the 
Bunabrake. For the latter danger, however, this is a long mark ; a better 
one for clearing it passing to the northward is Noup head, Wostra, open to 
the northward of the windmill on Papa Westra, or Holland house open to 
the northward of the pile on the holm of Papa. 

The stream sets rapidly over the Baas of Trevan, but that from the* 
body of the firth goes towards and to the northward of the Runabrake. 
Should, however, the ebb-stream be nearly spent, greater advantage will 
be gained by working to the southward of the Runabrake, as the flood- 
stream is weak within the line of the holms of Eyre and Papa Westra. 
The Baas of Trevan and the neighbouring dangers will be cleared to the 
north-west, by keeping the Red head of Eda well open of the holms of 
Eyre; and when standing to the northward, tack well short of the 
Runabrake. Respecting this danger it is to be remarked, that if the 
water is too smooth to cause a break, none but vessels of great draft would 
strike upon it. 

It is necessary to keep a mile from the outermost of the holms of Eyre, 
so as to pass well clear of Tuo spit. 

Between Sanda and Westra the tide-streanr is weak, and the water is 
at all times comparatively smooth, or at any rate the sea is regular, and 
under ordinary circumstances, a vessel will be able to beat up to Papa 
Westra against the flood, and should the wind freshen, a safe anchorage 
will be found at Pierowall. 



112 OBKNEYS* — ^KOETH EOKALDBHA PIBTH. [ch^. n. 

the Baas of Trevan^ a course Bhoold be shaped for about the middle of 
Sandquoj bay, and upon Whal point being shut in bj Bur Ness, the 
vessel's position must be tested by the bearing of an object, to ensure her 
passing well clear of the reef extending from Whitemill point, which 
having passed, and the harbour appearing open, a more southerly course 
may then be steered, taking care to have Bur Ness well open of Whitemill 
point to clear the Back holm« When the leading mark has been brought 
on, proceed as before directed. 

For working in, no better direction can be given than to tack with 
Savil Green house at either end of Colziegarth, taking care not to open 
them, as the narrowness of the channel admits of no licence. Being within 
the southernmost of the Taings of Torsker, upon which the sea is generally 
breaking, the south-east side of Otterswick may be closed to within 2 cables, 
for along it is the deepest water ; but the north-west portion is veiy 
shallow, and it is advisable to go about in mid-channel when standing 
towards it. The head of Otterswick is also very shoal and unfit for 
anchorage. 

It sometimes happens that an accident, such as springing a leak, the 
loss of anchors, or even the extreme violence of the wind, will render it 
necessary to beach the vessel, and for this purpose the head of Otterswick 
offers great convenience, for the vessel has merely to haul close round the 
skerry of Lamma Ness, and may then be beached on a clean sand, without 
being exposed to the range of the sea. 

I In turning out of Otterswick, it is necessary to guard against the ebb 
tide, which sets over the Riv and the Baas of Trevan, and, in light winds 
* especially, the vessel must stand well towards Creso, before working to 
the north-west into the body of the firth. 

It is high water, full and change, at Otterswick at 9h. 12m. ; spring 
tides rise 1 1 feet, neaps 8 feet. 



113 



CHAPTER VII. 

ORKNEYS— SANDA SOUND. 



Vakiation in 1876. 
TresNesB - - - 22° 30' W. 

Sanda sound has a melancholy notoriety, from the numerous wrecks 
which have occurred upon its shores. The following description of the 
south side of Sanda, and the east side of Stronsa, is more in detail than 
that given in the fifth chapter, under the head of '' Sea Margin and 
Approaches." • 

BAlTBA, 80UTB 8XBB. — The extremity of Sanda is the Start point, 
from the south-east part of which, extends the Glabrae reef for a distance 
of 2 cables. The south side of the islet is bold, but towards Lop Ness, 
a mile to the westward of the Start, reefs dry out for some distance ; at 
Guataing for 2 cables. The Start point and neighbouring shore should 
have a berth of ^ a mile. 



', the largest bay in Orkney, has a continuous sandy 
strand for 5 miles. 

From Guataing, the coast bends to the northward, and forms the bay of 
Lop Ness, in which vessels load during the summer season, but it is an 
indifferent anchorage. A large house and offices stand lipon the shore, 
abreast which, in a line between Guataing and Bus Ness, is a skerry 
named the Beef of Birbos, upon which there are but 5 feet. 

Westward of Lop Ness, the shore of Tresness bay continues flat and 
sandy to Bus Ness and Newark, up to which, vessels should keep the 
Start lighthouse open of Lop Ness or Guataing while standing in shore. 
Bus Ness is but little in advance of the general line of coast upon either 
side, but it may be known by a house with a tall chimney, and by a wind- 
mill standing close beside it. 

A short distance farther on are the large farm-houses of Newark, a little 
to the eastward of which, off the Taing of the Old houses, and | of a mile 
from the shore, is the best anchorage in Tresness bay. With off-shore 
winds in summer, a vessel may lie here for a few days, but the ground 
cannot be depended upon, as its general character is rocky, with occasional 
patches of sand, for which reason, if it be necessary in making a passage to 

* See Admiralty chart of the Orkney islands, No. 2,180; scale, m b o*5 inches. 
37383. H 






/ 

w 

w 
r 

112 OBKNBTS.— NOBTH BONAUWHA MBTH. if 

the Bans of TreTiui, a course should be shaped for about thr 
Sandquoy bay, and upon Whal point being shut in by F 
Tessel's position must be tested by the bearing of an objer' 
passing weU clear of the reef extending from Whitr^ 
having passed, and the harbour appearing qpen, ^^ $ 
may then be steered, taking care to haTe Bar Neas '^ 
point to clear the Back holm. When the leading | ^ 
on, proceed as before directed. '^ ^ 

For working in, no better direction can ', ^ 
Savil Green house at either end rf Colrie' x 
them, as the narrowness of the channel mdr > 
the southernmost of the Taings of Tor* ^ 
breaking, the south-east side of Otterr 
for along it is the deepest water ^' 
shallow, and it is advisable to - . i 
towaids it. The head of Ottr • J 

anchorage. ^ #' ^ 5 

It sometimes happens ih } ■ i ' ^ ^^^^^ „f 

k«s of «cho^ or eren ' t ^, diviio^al n^k between the 

^ ^ ^ . ^ ^^oued Catasand, entirely dry at low 

offers great Cfmremeaf ^.mxixcx*^ ^ j ' . . - 

skeoT of I^amma N^ _ to this flat is upon the north-west side of 

being expoe«d to ♦* -^ ^^^> *^^ ***^ always sufficient water m it to 

I iT turning ^ ^ >ing afloat in safety. 

tide, which ap ^^ves Xnss Ness and Els Xess, named Staewick, is unfit 
especially, O -'* ^ the bottom is rocky. 

the north- ^.^^ ^sother peninsula projecting boldly forward, is a mile in 
^' ■* ^i S (Ah\e^ in breadth ; upon its east side are several tumuli, 
'^ ^ ye-"^ ^ av^ conspicuous, and a fiirm-house is at the north end- EHs 
> f^' ..-.cxJ t*> Sanda by the Stae bankss a narrow strip of dry sand. 

-*■ ^ ^ Three cables oflT the souili point of the ness are some Yery 

3^fx>u=' r^>^k?< the Hithys, the siinimit of the Tosky ree^ which 
'\^ AiivMher cable outside thom. Before rounding the ness, the large 
j^.^,f-2^vi5»e of B^^^askeal must have been opened to the southward of the 
^os of Kil> Xe:?*?, a sni&Il rvvky i^Jei in the mouth of the bay of Kettletafl, 
^^ wh:oh a ruineri hou^e show^ plainly. 

«»M»taft is a very shoal harbour, lit only for coasting vessels. The 

^:^^^ h^ of the K^y drie^ and in the outer portion, between Boa Kess 

^ ,h^ .<^.r^ of Klls Xess. is a iv^ named the Cow, which sometimes 

^.vvu. above water, whiie Wt>veen tl.e Cow and the hohn is the skeny 

,>i jhe RetU\ fur. si^errv of the raaci<f^.l ^i> .^- i ^erry 

kolm of KlU x.^' - *>c«ci>u^d, showing at low-water ^udngs. 

Mm of fais 2s«ss IS surrounded bv Ion.- i^i^ -F^"-S^ 






I 



VII.] TBES NESS. — SPUR NESS. 115 

«s, upon the north-west side of the bay, dries off flat for a 

detached skerry, named Kierlies reef, with only 6 feet over 

om the shore, lies off Bea Ness ; but although thus beset 

the anchorage is considered valuable, as it is the only 

"^ vessels upon the south side of Sanda. The white 

**ominent upon the .high part of Bea Ness, and there 

non the same side of the bay. To the north of 

^es on the banks, and a little farther up the 

'^s kept open to the east of the storehouse, 

^f, and Tres Ness kept open of Ells Ness, 

is with the house of Bacaskeal, 

lark of Bea Ness, in 3 &thoms, 

• ride safely in all winds ; but 

,v inter season, for a heavy beam 

J winds, and the island of Stronsa is too 

woary protection in those from south-west. 

. asay has upon its shore the kirk of Cross parish, and the 
xiouse of Bacaskeal already alluded to. The bay proves but an 
indifferent roadstead, for the ground, although generally sandy, cannot be 
trusted to, and a heavy sea is thrown home in southerly and easterly 
winds ; it is besides, so shoal, that vessels have to anchor in a position 
where they receive but little protection from Ells Ness, while there is but 
a limited space for working out. 

From Bacaskeal to the westward, there are no particular obstructions 
as far as Quoy Ness, a low point with a sheep pen on it. This part of the 
coast is well marked by the farm-house of Wasetter, and by a windmill, 
standing on the outline of the high land. 

BenniB Skerry, between Quoy Ness and Hack Ness, is a shoal with only 
2 feet upon it, lying out ^ of a mile from the shore. Its outer edge has 
the house of Greentaft in Eda on with the south end of Spur Ness ; there- 
fore, to pass outside the skerry, the pile on the Ward of Eda should be 
kept open of Spur Ness. 

Hack Ness has the stump of a windmill and a cow-pen standing on it. 



is the south-west point of Sanda and the north boundary of 
a passage named the Kell. Between Hack Ness and Spur Ness, is the 
little bay of Stove, where small vessels may find a good summer anchor- 
age. The entrance is only 2\ cables wide, and though nearly a mile deep, 
the bay dries for half its extent, and it is necessary to bring up on the 
line between the points, with the house of Greentaft just shut in by Spur 
Ness ; here, a vessel will be out of the influence of the tide stream, in 

h2 



116 ORKNEYS. — SANDA SOUND. [ohap.vii. 

4^ fathoms water. The strong set across the mouth of the bay is its chief 
protection ; and as the holding ground is good, a vessel may ride here 
safely during summer. 

The XaU, the passage between Spur Ness and the holms of Spur Ness, 
has only 16 feet in it at low water, and the bottom is rocky and uneven. 
An exceedingly rapid tide-stream sets through the Kell, always causing a 
roost upon the side opposite to that from which the stream is coming, and 
hence its name. 

BparneM Bolnui and Bonad. — The three small green islets, the Holms 
of Spur Ness (the middle one having a small house on it), form at low 
water, a connected mass ^ a mile in length. A northern projection from 
the holms, with only 5 feet upon it, considerably narrows the passage of 
the Kell. Spurness sound, between the holms and the islet Little linga, 
is ^ a mile wide, and about 9 fathoms in average depth. Off the north 
point of Little Linga the water is shallow for some distance, but the 
holms may be approached to 2 cables at high water, and to half that 
distance at low water. 

TZBB. — In Spurness sound, the tide begins to the eastward half an hour 
before it is low water on the shore, or If hours before it is low water in 
the stream, and turns every six hours. This stream is like a mill-race in 
the narrows when passing Spur Ness, but it speedily becomes diffused 
in Sanda sound, and off Kettletaft it scarcely runs 2 knots. 

STftovBA, SAST BXS8. — Little Linga is a small flat green islet off the 
north-west point of Stronsa, with an uninhabited white house standing on 
it. It is separated from Link Ness by a narrow sound with 3^ fathoms in it. 

&ZVX WXBS, the north-west point of Stronsa, is low, and partly culti- 
vated. Upon the north side it is shallow, and here there is a small rock 
named the Sutter, lying out | of a cable from high-water mark. 

The Boim of Bnlp appears as a single rounded hill 60 feet high, having 
on its summit a cairn of stones ; a spit and some small rocks extend from 
its south end, and generally its shores are not bold, and should have a 
berth of i J cables, particularly its north-east end. 

Between Link Ness and the holm of Huip there is a sand-bank with 
10 feet upon it ; but outside the line of the ness and the north point of 
the holm, there are 3 fathoms, and between the highest part of the holm and 
Little Linga, there are 4 fathoms. Here there is excellent holding ground 
and safe anchorage with all winds, though at times a considerable swell 
rolls round the holm of Huip. 

There is a narrow channel with 10 feet in it between the holm of Huip 
and Stronsa ; this passage is unfit for general navigation, but if neces- 
sitated to use it, keep one-third the breadth of the channel from Stronsa. 



CHAP. VII.] SPURNESS SOUND. — STROKSA, EAST SIDE, 117 

The point of Cumlie is very flat, with a small skerry lying close to the 
shore upon the east side. The bottom of Sanda sound abreast this point 
is rocky and uneven, with several unnamed patches of less than 5 fathoms, 
over which the sea breaks heavily in southerly gales. The general depth 
of water is 8 and 9 fathoms, but not more than 5 fathoms can safely be 
depended upon. If the pile on the Ward of Eda be kept to the northward 
of the house on Spurness holm, a vessel will pass to the northward of all 
the shoals ; or the windmill on Eda between the middle and the northern- 
most of Spurness holms, will lead between the northernmost shoal and the 
others. 

Upon most of th.e foregoing patches there is a depth of 4 fathoms, but 
over one of them there is as little as 15 feet ; this latter has the windmill 
of Eda in line with the house on Spurness holm, and the barrow at the 
Ward of Clestron, in line with the farm-house of Whitehall (both in Stronsa). 
The mai*k to go to the northward of it has already beep given, and to pass 
between it and Quiabow, the kirk of Eda, situated upon the shore, must be 
kept on with the north point of the holm of Huip. 

Qaiabow» or Quoybow, is a more dangerous reef, with only 5 feet upon 
it, about ^ a mile to the eastward of Cumlie ; the rock itself is very small, 
but it is surrounded by a bank ^ a cable across, with 2 and 3 fathoms over 
it, and the channel between it and the shore has 17 {eet in it at all times. 
Greentafc house in Eda open of Cumlie, will clear the Quiabow on its 
north side, and the south barrow upon the Ward of Clestron in line with, 
or open east of the manse in Stronsa, will lead to the westward of it. This 
rock is much in the way of vessels bound into or out of Papa sound. 

PAPA BTSOirsA is a small well-cultivated islet near the north-east 
extremity of Stronsa ; it has a barrow with a stone pile on it at the north 
end, a windmill towards the south, and a cluster of large white houses upon 
the west side. Uj)on the Stronsa shore abreast, is a row of houses nearly 
J of a mile long, to the westward of which, and rather up the hill, is White- 
hail, a large white house, and a little to the southward is the manse. On 
the ridge of the hill, ^ a mile to the southward of the manse, are two 
small barrows on the Ward of Clestron, which are used as sea-marks. 
. The west extreme of Papa Stronsa, is at high water, a long stony 
point, but at low water it appears based on an extensive dry sand, which 
tails off shoal to the westward ; the north and east sides of the islet are 
shoal and flat, and at the north-east end there is as little as 2 fathoms ^ of 
a mile from the shore. Farther out in the same direction is Papa Groina, 
' a shoal with 18 feet upon it at low water, which is cleared on its east side 
by keeping Burgh head open of Odin Ness. There is another patch with 
5 fathoms upon it, a mile to the north-east of Papa Stronsa. These, and 
other similar features, cause in stormy weather, as heavy a sea in Sanda 
sound as in any part of the Orkneys. 



118 OEKNEYS. — SANDA SOUND. [chap. vn. 



I 



I 



I 



U formed under cover of Papa Stronsa, has of late years 
become of great importance as the seat of the principal herring fishery in 
the Orkneys, and during the season more than 1,000 boats at times put to 
sea together, while there will also be a large number of vessels waiting 
for cargoes. Papa sound, however, can never become generally use^ for 
it is both shallow and extremely difficult of access. 

The north entrance to the sound has 13 to 15 feet in it at all times, but 
it is not more than 1^ cables wide, being considerably contracted by a reef 
extending from the western shore, a large portion of which is uncovered 
at half ebb. To enter the sound by this channel in the deepest water, 
keep the north barrow on the Ward of Clestron over the manse, and the 
reef will be abreast, when a dark-looking hut upon the shore at the 
reef appears end on. In the sound is a spot called Jacks hole, in which 
there is a depth of 6 fathoms, but not more than 3 fathoms can be reckoned 
upon, and the ruling depths over the sound are 6 to 10 feet ; the trading 
vessels, however, by taking advantage of high water, sail to the east end, 
where there is a gully with 12 feet. Here, as the water is always still, 
and the bottom soft, it matters little if a vessel takes the ground. 

The south entry into the sound is nearly blocked up by skerries, between 

which, there are depths of 4 and 5 feet at low water. As this channel is 

extremely narrow i^id critical, and only available with a fair wind and 

smooth water, it should never be attempted by a stranger. 

« 

arice veM, separating Papa sound from Odin bay, is very fiat, and a 

rock, dry at low-water springs, lies J of a mile to the south-east of it. 

OBnr BAT, or Mill bay, though a mile wide and more than a mile deep, 
is far from being a good anchorage, for though the depth is from 5 to 
7 fathoms, and the bottom in some places sandy, it is in general foul. In 
the summer season, trading vessels which are prevented getting into 
Papa sound, usually anchor in 7 fathoms, J of a mile from the south side of 
Grice Ness. The shores of the bay are flat, and besides Griceness skerry, 
the only other outlying danger is the Bow off Odin Ness, which dries at 
low-water springs, and has a shoal bank of some extent surrounding it* 
In the channel between the Bow and Odin Ness, there are 4 fathoms. 
The house of Eirbuster kept outside Odin Ness, clears the rock passing 
to the eastward. 

The reefs extending for some distance from Odin Ness, are the last of 
the dangers upon the east side of Stronsa. 

From Odin Ness to Burgh head the coast is high and broken, and at 
Burgh head the cliffs are perpendicular and 114 feet high, the land behind 
rising slightly to the Ordnance station, which is marked by a pile. (See 
view, page 91.) 



OHAP.vnO PAPA SOUND, — ^DIBBCTIONS. 119 

To the southward of Burgh head, the cliffs are broken and low to Hells 
mouth, a bight upon the north side of Lamb head, abounding with rocks 
and chasms. The astounding noise of the sea which breaks in front, has 
given rise to its singular name. 

&AMB BBAB is a Small peninsula^ 77 feet high, sloping from west to 
east, and its almost isolated character renders it sufficiently remarkable. 

BZBBCTXOX'S for SABBA SOUBB. The course and distance from the 
Start to I^mb head are S.W., 13 miles ; from the Start to Tres Ness 
W. by S. i S., 5J miles ; and from Tres Ness to Burgh head S.S.W. i W., 
8 miles. 

Though San da sound is not generally available for vessels of heavy 
draft, still shelter may be found in it in easterly gales, or when a vessel 
has accidentally become embayed between the Start and Burgh head; 
under such circumstances, when either of these well-marked points are 
clearly recognised, there will be little difficulty in dnding an anchorage. 

In working from the southward towards Sanda sound, it is to be remem- 
bered that the tide-stream turns sooner in-shore than in the offing, and 
though there is a clean shore from Lamb head to Odin Ness, the north-east 
side of Papa Stronsa is foul, and it is necessary to go a1)out when within a 
mile of the shore. There is very little tide-stream west of the line of Tres 
Ness and Odin Ness, and even between Burgh head and the Start a vessel 
will work agaiust it in a fiioderate breeze and smooth water. Upon the 
Sanda side, by keeping outside the line between the Start and Tres Ness, 
the Brae Grena will be avoided. As a general rule, it is better to keep 
under way than to anchor and wait for tide in Tres Ness bay ; but in case 
of a calm, the kedge or bower may be dropped anywhere upon the eastern 
half of the bay, outside the line from Lop Ness to Tres Ness ; a more 
prudent plan, however, would be to drop the kedge in 20 or 25 fathoms 
outside the line of the points. As the water throughout the sound is not 
deep, it may, under some circumstances, be used as a roadstead, as for 
instance, in a westerly or off-shore gale. 

The common cause of loss in Sanda sound is frt)m vessels becoming 
embayed in southerly gales in Tresness bay. The best plan to pursue in 
such an emergency, is at once to let go both anchors and veer out to 
the clinch, and then to adopt every seaman-like precaution even to the 
cutting away the masts, should such an expedient be considered necessary. 
But when a vessel's cables are too defective for the severe test to which 
they would be exposed, then a favourable part of the sandy strand should 
be selected, and the vessel run ashore upon it. The border of Tresness 
bay, as already remarked, is composed of sand, and as a consequence, the 
loss of life bears no proportion whatever to the number of wrecks that 
have taken place upon it. 



120 OEKNEYS. — SANDA SOUND. [chap. ra. 

' In bad weather^ however, it is not always so dark or thick but the hmd 
may be seen several miles off, and the various points be recognised without 
difficulty from the description already given of them. If Burgh head can 
be identified, then it will only be necessary to skirt the east and north sides 
of Stronsa at the distance of a mile to find an anchorage, or if the Start be 
first seen, then W. by S. ^ S. for 5 miles will lead to Tres Ness, and from 
thence W. by S. for 5^ miles leads to the holm of Huip ; the directions 
for anchorage off which are given on page 1 16, or the course may be 
continued between the holm of Spur Ness and Little Linga, and a berth 
taken up under the lee of Great Linga. 

Papa sound is too intricate to be attempted in bad weather, but a vessel 
having lost her anchors, may beach with tolerable safety either in Kettle- 
taft or the bay of Stove. If the marks already given for Kettietaft 
cannot be recognised, it will be necessary after the holm of Ells Ness has 
been rounded, to keep nearer to Bea Ness than mid-channel until half way 
up, and then steer for the gully at the north-eastern angle of the bay 
leading into the sands of Ells Ness, in which there are 10 feet at high 
water ; here the vessel may be laid ashore. 



121 



CHAPTER VIII. 

ORKNEYS— W^STRA AND STR0N8A FIRTHS, AND EDA SOUND. 



Vakiatioit vx 1876. 
Brough of Bima - 28°t)'W. | Bda - - - 22«^ 40' W. 



Westra and Stronsa firths, which we assume to be divided bj Great and 
Little Green hobns, form together one of the largest and widest sounds in 
the Orkneys, and a great thoroughfare across the group ; they have also 
the advantage of good harbours, or temporary anchorages, upon their 
sides.* 

mniBinUL rz&TB is formed by the islands of Westra, Fara, and Eda, 
to the north-eastward, and Howsa and Egilsha to the south-westward ; it is 
about 10 miles long, and 2^ miles in average width; the mean depth in it 
may be considered as 20 fathoms, but it is more encumbered by shoals 
and skerries than Stronsa firth. 

W8TBA, 80UTB-'«rB8T 8ZDB. — The appearance of the Noup of 
Westra has been described on page 98. High perpendicular cliffs continue 
from it, their elevation gradually decreasing to the fiag of Inga Ness, or 
Ingaval, the south-west extremity of the island, and where Westra firth 
may be said to begin. From Inga Ness the coast turns southerly to the 
low shelving point of Skea, the extremity of which is nearly separated 
from the adjoining land by a ravine, and appears as an island when seen 
from the westward or eastwai*d. A high-water table rock, named the 
Hless, is attached to Skea point, and extends for about a cable. 

BXVBBXBS of sxiA, the most important of the outlying dangers in 
Westra firth are a mile to the southward of Skea point ; they consist of a 
cluster of rocks upon a bank ^ a mile long north and south, and at half- 
tide, they appear as two distinct skerries. The southern one, which is only 
covered at high water, should be distinguished by a beacon to assist the 
navigator through the firth, the northern skerry is covered at half-tide, 
and both are bordered by a very shoal extension to the eastward. 

Besides a rock with 3 feet upon it, lying between the skerries and Skea 
point, there is also a detached bank of sand and rock, with 12 feet over it, 
lying i a mile to the westward of the skerries ; the intervening channel 
having 7 to 10 fathoms in it. The sea breaks heavily upon this bank 
whenever there is any swell. There are 12 fathoms ^ a mile to the 



♦ See Admiralty charts :— Orkney islands, No. 2,180 ; scale, m» 0*5 inches; and Scot- 
land, east coast, sheet V., No. 2,181 ; scale, </ — 15| inches. 



122 ORKNEYS. — ^WBSTEA FIBTH. [chap. vin. 

westward and eastward of the skerries, and 6 and 7 &thoins between them 
and Skea point. 

The tide stream sets right over these rocks when they are covered, and 
they are specially dangerous to vessels drifting in a calm with the ebb out 
of Westra firth^ that have neglected to tow to the southward. 

Any part of the Noup of Westra kept open of Inga Ness will clear the 
skerries of Skea passing to the westward, but to avoid the detached bank of 
12 feet, it is necessary to keep open Quoyval, the first hill to the eastward 
of the Noup, and represented in the accompanying view. The Red head 
of Eda kept well open to the southward of the cottages of Rusland, leads 
to the southward of the skerries of Skea. 




Noup of Westra, E. by N. | N., 4 miles. 

Tnquoy Bay occupies a great portion of the south-west side of Westra ; 
but, as it is generally foul, it should be avoided. 

To the eastward of the point of Skea there are but 16 feet at J of a mile ; 
the point of Tuquoy is also very flat, with 14 feet only at j^ a mile to the 
eastward of it ; within this sandy spit there are 3 and 4 fathoms at all 
times, and here small vessels occasionally take in or discharge cargo. The 
sandy bay farther in dries for the most part at low water. 

The east side of Tuquoy bay is also very foul and flat ; the skerry of 
Wasbuster, a flat rocky mass never entirely covered, dries at low water for 
nearly ^ a mile, and the sea-weed may be seen about it for a much greater 
distance. Between the north-east end of the skerry and the shore there 
are only 6 feet at low water ; there is also a patch barely covered at the 
same time of tide some distance to the eastward of the south point. 

The point of Twingas within to the skerry of Wasbuster is shoal for 
J a mile to the southward, at which distance from the point, and lying 
2^ cables from the west shore of Rap Ness, is Swine skerry, a rock nearly 
dry at low-water springs. 



XTBSS and "vrAST BO&M. — ^Rap Ness, the south extremity of 
Westra, is very foul upon the west side, and the south and east sides, though 
free of outlying dangers, are very flat. The flrst rock to the southward of 
Swine skerry, from which it is ^ a mile distant, is Broad Shoal ; a part of it 
shows at low water, and there is no available passage within it. The next 
rock is the Clump, a black stack 15 feet above high water, and easily 
recognised ; it has a few rocks to the south-westward, with narrow chan- 
nels between. Lastly occurs Wart holm, a smaD green islet, W. J N. 



OHAP.vm.] WESTRA, SOUTH-WEST SIDE.— DIRECTIONS. 123 

§ of a mile from the extremity of Bap Ness, round which the water is 
shallow for 1^ cables on every side, 

RiLPwass BAT. — There is tolerable anchorage in Rapness bay, and 
although it is open to southerly winds, and a westerly swell rolls in, yet 
the holding ground is good, and a vessel properly found might ride in it 
through the winter. This bay is also a convenient stopping place for 
vessels detained in their passage through the firth, either by a want of 
wind or of daylight, and for those bound to the northward. The depth in 
it is from 3 to 5 fathoms. 

rara Boim forms the east side of Rapness bay, and has lying out, 
N. W. f W. -J- a mile from its south end, a bank of sand with 1 1 feet upon 
it at low-water springs ; there are 5 fathoms between it and the holm, and 
it lies nearer to the holm than to Rap Ness ; the marks for clearing it are 
given below. 

BZ&BCTZOirs. — In entering Rapness bay from the westward, give Wart 
holm and Rap Ness a good berth, and anchor with the Red head of Eda 
midway between Weather Ness and Fara holm. The bank with 1 1 feet 
upon it N.W. I W. ^ a mile from the south end of Fara holm, is cleared 
passing to the westward by keeping nearer to the ness than the holm. 
Saverskaill head, in Rowsa, on with Rap Ness clears it passing to the 
northward, and Wart holm seen open of Rap Ness clears it passing to the 
southward. 

Approaching the bay from the southward, pass to the westward of 
Rusk holm, the northern reefs from which will have been cleared when 
Skea point is shut in by Rap Ness. 

To avoid the sea, the small native vessels often pass to the eastward of 
Rusk holm, but the channel, though deep, cannot be recommended. 

The narrow passage between Weather Ness in Westra and Fara holm 
is named Weatherness sound ; there are 5 fathoms in the deepest part, but 
the navigable channel is only a cable wide, and the tide-stream runs strong 
through it. The deep water is close to the holm, and Weather Ness must 
be avoided, for though it is clear to the low-water ledges extending from 
it, yet a reef upon the west side encroaches considerably upon the channel. 



BO&M is a small flat islet with a deserted house upon it, S. by 
E. i E. 1^ miles from Rap Ness ; it is ^ of a mile long at high water, but 
more than double that extent at low water in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. 
direction ; the crest of the southern portion of the reef is not covered at 
high-water neaps. 

Rusk holm is at times a serious impediment, for the flood-stream sets 
over the southern part of it ; its west side should have a berth of 2 to 3 
cables, and the north end should not be approached nearer than ^ a mile 



124 OB.KNBTS.— WBSTBA PIETH. [chm-. Tin. 

OQ acconiit of oatlying reefs in that direction. There is also a skerry, 
nearly dry at low vater, 2| cables to the north-eastward of the holm 
boundiDg the channel between Rusk holm and Fara, a passage ^ a mile 
wide, with 7 and 6 fathoms in it, but it is at all times preferable to pass 
to the westward of the holm. 

TAMUL* and Fara holm (a continuation of it) form one island at low 
water, but at half-tide boats can pass through Ijevj sound, the passage 
between them. The west and east sides of Fara are clear at the diatance 
of a cable, but the south-west part of the sonth end is foul. The Harp, 
nearly dry at low-water springs, and surroanded by a sand-bank, marked 
by the lighter colour of the water, here lies out 3 cables from the shore, 
forming, with the south point of Fara, the northern boundary of the south 
channel into Fara sound. The Harp is cleared passing to the westward 
by keeping Green holm open of £da, but as this is not a good mark for 
avoiding it, when working through the channel, a vessel must then tack 
when halfway across from Fara Ness, 

MD^ vraav mici sovTB-waiT szsbs. — From Red head, the north 
point of Fda, the coast trends south-westerly to the little Noup, a lower 
bluJT. It then extends 3 miles to the southward, when, curving to the 
westward and north-westward, it forms the largo bay of Fara Ness.f 

a«a Holm, lying nearly midway between Little JS^oup head and Fara 
holm, and in the middle of the north entrance to Fara sound, to which it 
affords ptotection, is a small flat islet about 10 to 15 feet above high 
water ; it is shoal for a cable upon its west aide, and a ledge extends from 
its south end for 2^ cablee. This eitension encroaches upon the channel 
between the holm and Eda, besides which, the shore of the latter abreast 
is shoal and flat, but the depth in the passage is about 5 fathoms, and a 
vessel may safely use it with a leading wind, by keeping near mid-channel. 

r&KA somro, contained between £da and Fara, is at least | of a mile 
wide, with depths in it varying from 7 to 12 fathoms. The west side of 
the sound along the shore of Fara is bold and clear, but the eastern or Eda 
shore must have a good berth, particularly in the vicinity of Bed holm. 

There is a sand-bank with 13 feet upon it in the southern portion of the 
sound, abreast the south end of Fara. Few vessels navigating among the 
Orkneys draw so much water as to constitute it an obstruction ; but in 
case of Faraness bay being at any time made a rendezvous for heavy 
vessels, it would be necessary to mark it with a buoy. It is a mere knoll, 
easily distinguished by the light colour of the wator over it; the general 
track is nearer to Fara than Eda, and a vessel will be to the northward of 



CHAP. VIII.] EDA, WEST SIDE. — BOWSA, NORTH-BAST SIDE. 125 

the bank so long as the bright sandy strand of Egilsfaa is shut in by the 
south point of Fara. 



VBBB and BAT. — ^Fara Ness^ that point of Eda opposite the 
south point of Fara, is bold to w'ithin ^ a cable of the shore. 

Faraness bay, immediately to the eastward of Fara Ness, and forming 
the head of Fara sound, is rather uneven in depth, as it varies from 3 to 
6 fathoms throughout, the least depth being in the middle of the bay, but to 
the southward there are 6 fathoms. The safest and best anchorage in^ the 
bay is upon the west side just within Fara Ness, and having the ness on 
with the tail of Rusk holm. In this position there are 6 fathoms, and a 
well-found vessel may ride in it in all weathers. 

Bound to Faraness bay, pass fully ^ a mile to the southward of Rusk 
holm, to avoid the long reef projecting from it, which will generally be 
seen ; then steer for Fara Ness, which is bold : if working in, it will be 
necessary, as before observed, to tack, when half-way across the channel 
from Fara Ness, to avoid the Harp ; and when the ness has been passed, 
steer in to the southward to the anchorage. 



I. — The tides in Weatherness and Faraness sounds are peculiar ; 
the stream turns to the eastward as soon as the tide has ceased to fall upon 
the shore ; that is, the flood stream makes 2^ hours before it does in 
Westra firth. The stream pours through the narrows of Weatherness and 
Faraness sounds at the rate of 4 knots, and then sets very weakly towards 
Calf sound. 

From Fara Ness the coast of Eda extends to the S.S.W. for 1^ miles, 
and is named Gruthay ; it is free of danger. 

Beal Skerry, If miles from Fara Ness, is a rock covered only at high 
water, and at low water dries for 2^ cables.- The reef defends a small bay 
within it from westerly winds, where small vessels occasionally take in 
cargoes of peat. It is, however, unfit for general use. 

From Seal skerry southward the c^oast of Eda is clear to War Ness, one 
of the divisional marks between Westra and Stronsa firths. 

MQvrsA, iroRTB-BA8T 8IBB. — The north-west side of Rowsa is bold 
and clear of danger, and at Sacquoy head the shore trends south-easterly 
into Westra firth. Upon the north-east side of the head fiat reefs dry off 
for a short distance, but an offing of 2^ cables is sufficient to clear them. 

The bold headland of Saverskaill is j of a mile to the eastward of 
Sacquoy head, and from thence the land falls back into the bay of Savers- 
kaill, or Wasbuster, which affords no anchorage, as the bottom is rocky and 
the depths considerably close to the shore. The high hill Kierfea, elevated 
762 feet, declines steeply to the shore of the south part of the bay. 



126 0EKNBT8.— WESTEA FIBTH. [chap. Tin. 

The east boundarj of Saverskaill bay b formed by Fanclet head, the 
north-eastern projection of which is named the Knee of Bowsa. The shore 
of this promontory is free of danger, and continues so to Skok Ness, at the 
northein entrance to Howan sound. 



lies to the eastward of Rowsa, being separated from it by 
Howan so and. The north and east sides of Egilsha, though rather flat, 
are free of danger. The small islet, Kili holm, is joined to the north side 
of Egilsha at low water. 

There is u knoll of 4^ fathoms lying out | of a mile from the southern 
part of Egilsha, in a direction towards Green holm ; and there is another 
patch of 5 fathoms, named the Benlin, W. ^ S. I^ miles from Little Green 
holm. Both these shoals are generally well marked by the rippling of the 
tide over them. 

Tbe araaa of BgrlUlia is a dangerous reef projecting | of a mile from 
the south end of the island; at low water it dries for 1^ cables, and a 
number of small detached patches also show ; the east side of the reef is 
particularly foul. 

The kirk of Bowsa shut in by the north-east end of Wyre, clears 
Egilsha Grand passing to the south-westward ; the steeple of Egilsha kirk 
open to the westward of the southernmost cottage upon the shore, clears 
its west side ; and Kirkwall cathedral on with Stromberry Ness (rather 
distant objects), clears it passing to the south-eastward. 



BomrB, between Bowsa and Egilsha, (more generally known 
to Orkney men as Bowsa sound,) is f of a mile broad, and about 2 miles 
through, and is an excellent harbour for vessels of any size. 

The north entrance is partly occupied by the holm of Skok Ness, a small 
green islet rising into a hill 40 feet high. It is shoal upon the north and 
east sides, and from the south end a long bank of rock and sand projects 
nearly across to Skail, in Egilsha ; its outer extremity rising into a small 
skerry dry at low water. 

The holm of Skok Ness divides the north entrance into two channels, 
the eastern of which (Howan sound proper) is blocked up by shoals, and 
the other, Skokness sound, is very narrow and crooked, for the shore of 
the holm dries oflF for a cable, and from the opposite side, a long reef 
named the Lang Taing, extends for a greater distance, leaving a navigable 
channel less than a cable in width ; 15 feet may be had through Skokness 
sound, and 12 feet through Howan sound ; but the tide-stream runs 
rapidly through both channels, and renders them unsafe for vessels. 

In the sound, the Bowsa side is generally clear and bold, but the shore 
of Egilsha is foul. Off Skail is a rocky flat, which dries out for some dis- 
tance ; and ^ of a mile farther to the southward there is a detached skerry, 
dry at low-water springs, lying 1^ cables from the shore. Afterwards the 



OHAP.vni.] DIEECTIONS FOR WESTRA FIRTH. 127 

shore is clear for ^ a mile to the storehouse of Vardy, or Vardie, where 
there is a rock with 17 feet upon it, IJ cables from high- water mark ; the 
coast then continues clear to the Grand. 

BZSBCTZOirs. — Howan sound is the best harbour in the vicinity of 
Westra firth for vessels of more than 10 feet draft, as it is easy of access, 
and sufficiently wide for square-rigged vessels to turn into it in moderate 
weather ; the water is also of a convenient depth, and the ground good for 
holding. 

The only impediment in the way of entry is the Grand of Egilsha. Be 
careful in passing along the east side of Egilsha not to haul up too quickly 
to enter the sound, as the east side of the Grand is very deceptive ; for 
this purpose, keep Kirkwall cathedral shut in upon Stromberry Ness, or 
when it is too hazy for this mark to be seen, keep fully ^ a mile from the 
shore of Egilsha, until Rowsa kirk has been shut in upon Wyre, the mark 
to clear the south-west side of the Grand. Then proceed into the sound 
in mid-channel, and anchor in 10 or 1 1 fathoms, mud, to the northward of 
the manse of Bowsa, and rather nearer to that shore, or continue farther 
up, as the depths are ample. 

In turning in or out^ the Rowsa side may be approached closely, as it is 
bold ; but when standing to the eastward, keep the steeple of Egilsha old 
kirk open to the westward of the southernmost cottage in the island, — ^the 
clearing mark for the west side of the Grand. 

BiRBCTZOiTB for uirsBTAA FZ&TB. — Approaching Westra firth from 
the westward, the course from Costa head, Mainland, to Sacquoy head, is 
E. by N. J N. 5 miles ; from the latter ifco abreast Kili holm, S.E. by E., 
5 miles ; and from thence to Green holm, S. by E. ^ E., 3f miles. Closing 
the firth from the northward, it is S. ^ W., 9 miles from the Noup of 
Westra to Faraclet head ; but upon this course it is necessary to keep the 
Noup well open of Inga Ness to avoid the skerries of Skea. When the 
Red head of Eda appears well open to the southward of the cottages of 
Rusland, or when the head is to the eastward of E. by S. ^ S., Skea skerries, 
the only danger of importance in the firth, will have been passed. 

CAVTZOsr. — To ensure passing outside the skerries of Skea in light 
winds, while the flood-tide is running, the vessel must not be within a mile 
of the west side of Westra. ^ 

After passing Kili holm there is a clear firth 3 miles wide, and the 
strongest tide-stream runs towards War Ness and the Green holms, and 
from thence to the Gio of Shapinsha, so that by keeping towards Eda, the 
slack water between the south end of Egilsha and the north side of 
Shapinsha will be avoided. 

Working in through Westra firth, it is advisable, in order to obtain the 
best of the stream^ to keep upon the Rowsa side, and not to stand to the 



128 ORKNEYS — STEONSA FIETH. [chap. viii. 

northward within the line of the skerries of Skea and Wart hohn, nor 
within the line of the latter and Rusk holm. 

A vessel, by simply keeping near mid-channel, will pass safely through 
both Westra and Stronsa firths. 

From Green holm to mid-channel between Rusk holm and Faraclet 
head, is N. f W.', 4 miles, and then N.W. f N. for the remainder of the 
firth. In going out, with a fair wind and daylight, there is no difficulty ; 
but with the ebb and light winds, after Green holm has been passed the 
vessel's head must be kept to the westward, and every endeavour made to 
get upon the Rowsa side to avoid the skerries of Skea, which there will 
be no difficulty in effecting if it be set about in time. 

In working out, after Green holm has been passed, work towards Kili 
holm in the strongest of the tide, and then upon the Rowsa side, as that 
shore is the boldest and has the smoothest water. 

TZBB. — ^The fiood-stream runs South along the west coast of Westra, 
from the Noup to the point of Skea, and over the Skea skerries. Between 
them and Rowsa the stream acquires a rate of 6 knots, and does not turn 
for two hours after high water on the shore. Its chief weight passes close 
round Kili holm^ and crosses for War Ness and the Green holms. 

A very weak stream runs south through Howan sound during the flood, 
but there is comparatively still water on the east side of Egilsha and the 
north side of Shapinsha. 

ROOSTS. — During and after a westerly gale with the ebb, there are two 
bad roosts in Westra firth ; the RuU, between Rap Ness and Rowsa, and 
the Rullard, off Sacquoy head. The Rull, the worst of the two, extends 
in a line from Wart holm to the Knee of Rowsa. The Rullard often 
breaks right across the firth, but it ceases with the ebb stream. 

STROWSA FZRTB may be considered as beginning at Copinsha, 
having that islet, the Mull of Deerness, and the island Shapinsha, for its 
southern boundary, and the islands Stronsa and Eda to the northward. 

From Str6nsa firth, two minor channels, Eda sound and Shapinsha 
sound, branch to the north-east and south-west respectively. The length 
of the firth may be taken at 15 miles in a general north and south 
direction, while its breadth diminishes from 11 J miles between Lamb 

head and Copinsha, to an irregular breadth of 3 miles between Eda and 

« 

Shapinsha. 

AJiBXXSMT, a low green islet, elevated 60 feet above high water, lies 
in the entrance to the firth towards the northern side, the centre of it 
being S.W. 3 miles from Lamb head. The lighthouse, 110 feet high, is 
situated on the south part of the island. 

The shores of Auskerry are flat and shelving, particularly on its northern 
side, where a reef projects off for J of a mile, and upon the west side, at 



OHAP.vin.] STRONSA, SOUTH AND WEST SIDES. 129 

the north end, are the Lumma skerries, dry at low-water springs; the 
outermost is 2 cables from the shore. These rocks, with others from the 
Stronsa shore, render the channel into the firth north of Auskerry a rather 
difficult one to a stranger. 



8TROV8A, sovTB and WVBT 8ZBB8. — ^Upon the south-west side of 
Lamb head, the south-east point of Stronsa (before described on page 1 19), 
a deep Grio breaking into the land neai-lj separates the head from the main 
island, and in one part, the connecting isthmus is so low and narrow, that 
the sea sometimes washes across it. 

Immediately upon the west side of Lamb head is the bay of Clett, with 
the farmhouse of Housbay and a great breadth of cultivated land near its 
shore. This bay has from 6 to 7 fathoms in it, but it is rocky and unfit 
for shipping. Tor Ness, the south-east point of Rousholm bay, is low, 
with a long sandy beach upon its east side ; it is fronted by shoal and 
rocky ground, and while navigating near, the house of Rousholm must be 
kept open of Tor Ness. 



% or Ingold skerry, lies prominently out from the 
south end of Stronsa between Lamb head and Tor Ness, and adds 
materially to the difficulty of navigating Auskerry sound. It is entirely 
covered at J flood ; at low water it dries for more than J of a mile in a 
N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and the outer part is f of a mile outside 
the point of Housbay, but the sea-weed shows at low water all the way 
to the shore^ and on several shoal patches on either side. From the 
highest part of the skeny, Lamb head bears E. by N. ^ N. rather more, 
than a fnile ; Holland house, N. by W., 1^ miles ; and Tor Ness, N.W., 
nearly 1^ miles. 



80mn>. — The pile on Knitchinfield hill, in Bowsa, on with 
the south-west cliff of Rousholm, N.W., is the mark for sailing through 
Auskerry sound^ but, as the former object is distant, keep the Gio of 
Shapinshawell open of Rousholm head^ and it will clear thelngale passing 
to the south-westward. Burgh head open of Lamb head, clears the skerry 
passing to the south-eastward ; and a pile on the east side of Rousholm* 
head well open of Torr Ness, N.N.W. | W., or the house of Rousholm^ 
open of Tor Ness, N. by W. J W., clears its west side. 

As the skerry does not extend so far as the middle of the sound, a vessel 
may run safely through by keeping one- third the breadth of the channel 
from Auskerry. 

CAUTZOV. — The stream runs rapidly through Auskerry sound, and as 
there is often a very heavy sea with the weather tide, it must be con* 
sidered upon the whole as a bad place. 

97883. I 



1 



130 OBKKEYS. — STRONSA FIETH. [chap. vin. 



r rans into the south-west part of Stronsa for 2 miles ; 
it is a mile in breadth, and la directly open ; the depths decrease gradually 
from 10 fathoms at the entrance, to the shore, and the head of the bay is 
occupied by a flat more than ^ a mile broad, and bounded by a sandy beach 
I of a mile long. The farmhouse and outbuildings of Rousholm are at the 
north-west comer of the bay ; the slate-roofed house of Holland is a con- 
spicuous object upon the east side, and at the storehouse on the shore 
below it, there is good landing in moderate weather. The peninsula of 
Rousholm, forming the western side of the bay, is clear of outlying danger, 
except off Greeli Ness, or Greenli Ness, its south-east extremity, where it is 
rocky and shallow for ^ of a mUe. Beyond Greeli Ness the shore is bordered 
by the cliffs of Rousholm head, and fronted by a few detached rocks^ 
which a berth of 2 cables will clear. 

Rousholm bay may be considered a good summer anchorage. A good 
position for coasters is upon the east side off the farm of XHtches, in 5 or 
6 fathoms, with Auskerry nearly shut in by Tor Ness, but for shelter from 
westerly winds it is better to anchor well in upon the opposite side. Vessels 
bound to the northward arriving abreast Rousholm bay at the end of the 
ebb, vriU find it a handy place to anchor in to wait a tide. 

Between Auskerry and Rousholm is an excellent fishing ground, named 
the Dowie sand, with 8 and 10 fathoms upon it ; but over one spot, named 
Rousholm Baa, | of a mile from the shore, with Green holm just open of 
Rousholm head, there are only 5 fathoms, generally marked in fine weather 
by the tide-ripple over it. With southerly winds and a fiood tide, there is 
a dangerous toppling sea upon it, and it must then be avoided by keeping. 
Ye Ness, in Eda, open of Rousholm head. 

The south-west part of Rousholm head is a bank of boulder stones 
steep-to, and round which the tide rushes violently. Near it is Petworth, 
or Peatworth, where boats load with the peats cut upon the head. A little 
farther north is the Lyren, a reef extending from the shore, which is at 
this part devoid of any feature sufficiently marked to be distinguished by 
description. There are 5 feet upon the reef, and as little as 11 feet nearly 
^ a mile from high-water mark. Either Copinsha open of Rousholm head, 
or the house of Wasetter, in Sanda, open of Great Linga, will lead to the 
westward of it. 

Northward of the Lyren, the shore of the peninsula to Linga sound 
is low, shallow, and rocky, and a berth of at least J of a mile should be 
given it. 



U partly covering in Linga sound, a deep bay upon the 
west side of Stronsa, is sometimes termed Linga holm, and Great Linga. 
From its south-west side reefs dry out for :J- of a mile ; the west side is bold, 
but 2 cables from the north-west point there are but 10 feet, and a 



3=: 



CHAP.vm.] BOUSHOLM BAY. — ^LINGA SOUND. 131 

shoal of 2 and 3 fathoms stretches from the same point towards Link- 
ness, leaving between them onlj a narrow passage with 5 fathoms in it. 
This shoal is oat of the usual track, but vessels working near it must 
tack before the house of Wasetter appears open to the eastward of Little 
Linga. 

swarf. — ^The principal danger near Linga is the Swarf, a flat and 
broadly-based reef dry at low water, and connected with the south- 
west end of the islet by a shoal bank, across which there is a narrow boat 
channel, safe for use only when the water is smooth. The Swarf con- 
siderably narrows and obstructs the southern and principal entrance to 
Linga sound, and should be marked by a beacon, for many vessels get 
upon it. 

KZiroA. soim is a very safe harbour, but is rather difficult of access, 
for besides the Swarf, a flat from the shoal southern point a little within 
contributes to narrow the entrance, and a 2 fathoms' spit projects some 
distance from the southern shore ; the south-east side of the bay is also 
very flat, and the depths in the middle of the harbour are irregular, the 
least water being about 16 feet. There is a depth of 4 fathoms in the 
entrance, and 6 fathoms may be found within, but Linga sound is a 
convenient unchorage only for vessels drawing 18 feet and under. 

BXRBCTXOirs. — As the land is low and sloping, it is diflScult at night 
to distinguish the entrance into Linga sound. 

The leading mark in by day is the Ward hill hut over the school-house, 
E.S.E. ^ S. ; the former is upon the outline of the land, and gable-on ; the 
latter is a slated building standing lialf-way down the hill. This mark 
' clears the Swarf passing to the southward, and when Midgarth store (a 
dark-looking building upon the shore, with a few huts to the southward 
of it) appears well open of the south-east point of Linga, N.E., which 
clears the east side of the Swarf, the course must be altered for the 
anchorage, close under the south-east point of Linga, in 5 or 6 fathoms. 
Vessels occasionally anchor off" St. Catherine store, with the Ward hill hut 
and the school-house in one, but in this position they are exposed to 
westerly winds, which send home a heavy short sea. 

Wasetter house in Sanda open of Linga leads to the westward of the 

Swarf, and in working in, the southern point may be approached by the 

, lead. Should a vessel in ah easterly wind be unable to fetch into the 

sound, she may anchor close under the west side of Linga^ in 5 to 8 

fathoms. 

Though there is good water through the northern entry into Linga 
sound, the channel is very narrow and unfit for general use, and no other 
direction for it beyond keeping in mid-channel can be given, as the shores 
upon either side are very flat. 

z 2 



132 OEKNEYS. — STRONSA FIBTH. [chap, tiik 

In south-westerly gales, when a vessel is unable to fetch Deer sound, she 
has a fair wuid to linga sound. 

langa and Little Linga form the eastern boundary of the southern 
entrance into Eda sound, described on pages 138 and 139. 

MDJkt SOVTH 8ZDB. — ^Between Ye Ness and War Ness, the south-east 
and south-west points of Eda, is a small bay, near the middle of which a teef 
named the Taing of Maltbam, dries off ^ of a mile from the shore. Small 
vessels ride in summer at an anchorage called the Sand of Green, upon 
the eastern side of the reef, in 5 or 6 fathoms. A patch of rocks named 
War Ness skerry, dries for 2 cables from War Ness, with deep water a short 
distance outside it ; the tide-stream rushes with great violence over this 
skerry, and in southerly gales and flood tide there is so bad a roost off this 
point, as to render passage near it impracticable. 

To clear both the ledges above described, keep the cairn on the summit 
of the holm of Huip open of Ve Ness. 

VDA, osozjTA and sovTB 8XBRST, Or Eda Gruna and South Gruna, 
as they are sometimes termed, are two detached reefs lying off Ve Ness, and 
obstructing the navigation into and out of Eda sound ; both reefs are sur- 
rounded by sand-banks, which fall suddenly to the eastward and westward. 
The shoalest part of Eda Groina (12 feet) lies with the south side of the 
holm of Huip on with the north side of Link Ness E. by N. \ N., and the 
kirk of Eda just shut in by Ve Ness, N. ^ E. ; the portion of this bank 
with less than 5 &thoms upon it is -^ a mile long, and the channel between 
it and Ve Ness is ^ a mile wide, with 8 and 9 fathoms in it. South skerry 
is separated from Eda Gi*oina by a passage 3 cables wide, and 7 fathoms 
deep. A narrow ridge of this reef has only 15 feet upon it. 

These sunken reefs are cleared passing to the south-westward by keeping 
the Knee of Kowsa open of War Ness, and to the southward by keeping 
the house of Clestron in Stronsa open to the southward of Linga. The 
manse of Eda open of Ve Ness clears them passing to the eastward, and 
the Eed head of Eda, shut in over Ve Ness, clears their west side ; while, 
to pass between them and Ve Ness, the cairn on the holm of Huip must be 
keep just open to the southward of Little Linga. 

As War Ness is at the north-west extremity of Stronsa firth, the southern 
side of the firth will now be described. 

coPZirSBA, views of which are given on page 92, is of remarkable out- 
line, and consequently extremely valuable in marking the southern side of 
the entrance into Stronsa firth. Seen from the north-eastward and south- 
westward the islet appears as a right-angle triangle with the perpendicular 
to the south-eastward ; but from the south-eastward nothing but a range 
of cliffs 211 feet high is seen, the remainder of the islet being hid by 
them. 



CHAP.vni.] EDA, SOUTH SIDE.— COPINSHA. — ^DEEB NESS. 133 

The Horse of Copiasba, an equally well-marked feature, is N.E. ^ a 
mile from the north-east extremity of Copinsha ; it is a rectangular mass 
of rock 59 feet high, and destitute of vegetation. The passage between 
the Horse and Copinsha is named Horse sound, in the middle of which 
is a small and steep rock, having but 9 feet upon the shoalest spot. As 
a general rule, it is recommended to vessels to pass outside the Horse, 
as nothing is gained by going through the sound; but in a case of 
emergency the rock will be avoided by keeping nearer to the Horse than 
to Copinsha. 

Com, ^T'art, and Blaek Helms, just within Copinsha to the north-west, 
are all connected with it by a beach and by reefs dry at low water. The 
barrier thus formed is taken advantage of by coasters for anchorage in off- 
shore and south-westerly winds. 

Copiaeiia Soi&nd. or passage between Black holm and Air point in 
Deer Ness, should not be attempted by strangers, for it is nearly barred 
by a reef, through which there are gaps, with 3 and 4 fathoms in them. 
From Black holm a ledge extends to the north-west with 9 feet upon 
it at 2 cables from the holm, and Air point, upon the opposite side of 
the passage, is fronted by foul ground, amougst which there is a skerry 
almost awash at low-water springs ^ of a mile from the shore, and another 
rock with a foot upon It lies ^ of a mile faither to the south-westward. 
From the latter skerry, the reef with 18 feet over it in some places, extends 
towards that from Black holm, a gully, a cable wide and 5 fathoms deep, 
separating them. North-eastward of Black holm is a shoal spot of 
4 fathoms, named the Danger, upon which the sea breaks occasionally in 
bad weather. 

With moderate weather and a lee-going tide, a vessel may pass through 
the sound safely. The mark used in going through from the northward 
is Skiel kirk upon the shore of Deer Ness, with a dark roof and a belfry 
at the west end, kept in sight outside Airbrae, until Dingys How, a 
triangular hillock near the isthmus of Deer Ness, appears open of the cliff 
of Sandisbrae ; but the How is sometimes very indistinct. 

Foul ground, however, is not the only objection to using Copinsha 
sound, for a very bad roost is formed in it occasionally with the weather 
tide, the sea breaking heavily right across, and no vessel should then 
attempt it. 

BSBH XB88, a peninsula 4 miles long and 3^ miles across at the broadest 
part, is connected with the south-east extremity of Mainland. From Air 
point to the northward the coast falls back to the shallow bay of Sandside ; 
off it is the skerry of Skiel, or Sandside, covered at high water, but some 
part of it showing at the first quarter ebb. There is no passage for vessels 
between the skerry and the shore, though coasting vessels occasionally 



134 ORKNEYS. — STBOKSA PIETH. [chap. vin. 

anchor within it, in the north bay, to take in cargo. fVom the highest part 
of the skerry Skiel kirk appears end on, and is ^ a mile distant ; to clear 
the rock ^ of a mile to the eastward, keep the Mull of Deer Ness open of 
the Brough. 

From the point of Sandside the coast is again bordered by low clifis, 
and continues straight for nearly a mile to the Brough of Deer Ness ; here 
the shore is broken, and the Brough is nearly separated from the adjacent 
land by a deep ravine ; the ruins of an ancient chapel stand on it, and 
there is a detached stack rock in front. 

From the Brough to the Mull is a range of high cMSb free of hidden 
dangers. 



annb& or bbbb vbss is a high bold head, having behind it a low flat- 
topped hill, with a pile on |[its summit ; the head is bold-to upon all sides ; 
a view of it is given on page 91. There are several reasons why a light on 
the Mull head would be of great advantage to vessels navigating in its 
neighbourhood ; the principal of which is, that it would serve to lead when 
refuge was required either to Deer sound, or to Inga Ness or Kirkwall 
bays (all harbours of easy access), with far greater certainty than Long 
Hope is now run for by the aid of Pentland skerries lights. 



BOmn has its outer entrance between Mull head to the south- 
east and Berwick head to the north-west, which are 3 miles apart ; and 
from them the shores gradually converge to the entrance proper, f of a mile 
wide, between Tanker Ness and the northern shore of Deer Ness, within 
which, the sound is more than a mile across, and here is the usual 
anchorage, for although the sound continues for 2^ miles farther, it is in 
general too irregular and shoal for any but small vessels.* 

The depth between the outer heads is 17 fathoms^ but it soon decreases 
to 7 and 6 fathoms, and the bottom of the outer harbour or roadstead is 
coral. The inner harbour, to reach which a bank of 3 fathoms must be 
crossed, has 4 or 5 fathoms, sand and mud. 

About I of a mile to the westward of the Mull of Deer Ness the land 
falls into a small bay, off which, vessels occasionally anchor while waiting 
for a fair wind, but the water is deep, 10 fathoms being found ^ of a mile 
from the land. The Deer Ness shore continues clear and bold to abreast 
Tanker Ness, when it becomes flat and increasingly so at Micady or 
Mercadi pointy from whence a sandy ridge of 2 fathoms and under joins a 
6 feet bank near the middle of the sound. 

From Berwick head on the opposide side, the shore is bold to Tanker 
Ness, which is flat and foul on both sides j and in front of it Tanker Ness 
reef projects out for 2 cables, half of which is dry at low water. Upon the 



* See Admiralty chart of Deer sound, No. 2,583 ; scale, m =; 3 inches. 



CKAP. vni.] DEER SOUND. — ^SHAFINSHA, B. AND N. SIDES. 135 

west side of the ness is a sandy spit, naiped the Taing of Barn, projecting 
parallel with, and as far out as the reef, and then continuing as a bank 
right across the harbour to Micady point ; but as the least water upon this 
part of it is 18 or 20 feet, it is no bar to the majority of vessels frequenting 
the port. 

The western extremity of the Taing of Bam is marked by a red 
buoy, moored in 18 feet at low-water spring tides ; with Tanker Ness 
E. by N. i N, Deer hill station S.fe. J E. (easterly), and Micady point 
S.W by. S. 

From Tanker Ness westward the coast is flat, and about half way 
between the ness and the pier is -another shoal, named the Taing of Bemen, 
having at 2 cables from the shore, a depth of only 9 feet upon it. This 
taing projects in a direction towards the shoal of 6 feet in the middle of 
the sound, and is separated from it by a channel ^ a mile wide, and 3 and 
3^ fathoms deep. Within the taing the water deepens to 5 fathoms, 
and then shoals gradually towards the shore. A buoy upon the 6-feet 
bank would greatly facilitate the navigation. 

In the upper portion of the sound, between Micady point and the oppo- 
site shore, there is a depth of 4 fathoms, but to reach it, a vessel would 
have to pass the north-west side of Micady point, in only 8 or 9 feet. 
The depth pf 4 fathoms is maintained upon the western shore nearly as 
far as Campston, but the whole of the eastern side is very shallow, over 
sofl mud. The head of the sound is specially available for small vessels 
having to make a stay. 



I. — From the Mull of Deer Ness, a West course, or there- 
abouts, according to the distance off, leads up to Tanker Ness, which 
must be given a berth of 3 cables, or keep through in mid-channel until the 
pile on the summit of Wideford hill appears just open to the southward 
of Tankemess hall, which may readily be known by its castellated tower 
and garden walls ; then keep this mark on, and anchor ^ a mile within 
Tanker Ness in 6 fathoms, sand, with the Mull head nearly on with the 
reef of Tanker Ness, or proceed -^ a mile farther to a more secure anchorage^ 
with the manse on with the houses at the pier, where there are 5 fathoms 
and good holding ground. 

In working into Deer sound, the south shore may be approached by the 
lead nearly up to Micady point. Standing to the northward, towards the 
Taings of Bam and Bemen, tack before the summit of Wideford hill 
appears on with the hall of Tankemess ; and in standing to the southward, 
do not open the manse to the southward of the pier end, in order to avoid 
the 6-feet bank. 

SBAvnrsBA, BA8T and ITOBTB SISB8. — ^Between Berwick head 
and Haco Ness (pronounced Hacks Ness) in Sbapinsha, is Shapinsha 



136 OSEKEY8. — STEOKSA. n&TH. [€&ai*. tux. 



f pige 156). Haea Neaa^ the aoot h c a st eztoanilj of Shapinsha^ is a 
knr green pent b ot da e d bj reefii dryiBg out 1^ eaUea, and with the 
whole of the eeaten side of the ishuid sboold have a berth of 2^ cables. 
Fnm Haeo Ncosy the eoart lisBB to Ae nocth-eefltward into a high 
perpendiodar diH^ named the Fool or Fort of Sh^inaba; it then declines 
in heigjhty and la broken and ragged to the G^o^ the north-east pcnnt of 



-There is no anchonge nprai the eastern side of Shapmshm, 
as there are IS fbthonts within ^ a mile of the shore ; bnt parallel to it^ 
and more than a mile off» are the Baas of Linton, a sand-bank, probably 
d^KMited bj the tide^ with 8 to 10 fiUhoms npon it, but upon one spot 
with Green hohn jost open of 6io Ness, there is as little as 5 fiithoms^ 
bright sand. This bank is steep on both fddes, and will be avoided by 
keeping Grreen hi^m wdl c^n of or shnt in bj 6io Ness. The latter 
pimnontcMj is steep-to, bnt a small bay npon the west side of it sbonld 
hare a berth <^ 2^ cables. 

WMAxmo BAY. — From Holmstein point, 1^ miles to ihe westward of 
the Gio, the lands bends round to the sonth-west and westward, and forms 
Veantro baj, 1^ miles broad and deep. The western half is occapied hj a 
sand-bank with less than 2 fathoms upon it ; bat in the eastern portion 
there are 5 and 6 fathoms, and the ground is good, and here vessels often 
ride in the summer season when bound to the southward and waiting tide. 
The usual anchorage is with the Ward hill of Grairsa over Gait point, or 
with Gio Ness just shut in bj the cottages near Holmstein point, in 
<5 fiithoms, coral bottom. 

OA&T SB8S and BMMBMT. — Gait Ness, or Walt Ness, forming the 
urestem boundary of Yeantro bay, shelves down from higher ground behind 
it. Upon its north-eastern side b Gkdt skerry, an extensive flat ledge 
entirely covered at high water, and between it and the point is a narrow 
channel with 12 feet in it. At low water the skerry dries for 2 cables, 
besides which. Gait point shelves out for more than 2^ cables, and both 
are much in the way of vessels rounding Shapinsha to and from Kirkwall. 
On the north end of Gait skerry there is a black buoy moored in 4 fathoms 
low-water spring tides. As the house of Greentaft in Eda in one with 
Little Green holm leads over the skerry, it is necessary in order to pass 
to the north-westward of it, to keep the house between the Green holms. 
To .clear the west side of the skerry, keep the outermost of the cottages on 
Gralt point clear of the intervening land, or keep Kirkwall cathedral open 
of Stromberry Ness. Rousholm head, in Strons^ on with Gio Ness, leads 
^ a mile to the north-eastward of Gait skerry. 

OSBBV HO&MS, the two small green islets dividing Westi'a and Stronsa 
firths, have between them at low water only an intricate boat passage. 



CHAP.vzix.] DIBSCTIONS TOE STBONSA FIBTH. 137 

Xiittle Green holm and the west side of Green holm are flat, and must have 
a good berth, but the east side and the north-east point of Green holm are 
steep-to. 

msscTioiiB for STBOWflA n»TB. — ^The navigable condition of 
Stronsa firth presents the greatest contrasts at difierent periods ; for 
several months together the smallest boat may cross it with safety, but with 
southerly gales and a spring flood, it would be dangerous to vessels of any 
size. 

The average depth in the iirth is about 20 fathoms over a rocky bottom ; 
this depth occurs between Auskerry and the Mull of Deer Ness, and ' 
between Rousholm and the Gio of Shapinsha, but it decreases to 
15 fathoms between the latter point and Green holms. 

As already observed, a vessel should enter Stronsa firth to the southward 
of Auskerry, in preference to passing through Auskerry sound, for the 
latter is not a desirable place for a stranger to be in, and it is seldom that 
anything is gained by using it. 

Running through Stronsa firth, the course and distance from the Horse 
of Copinsha to the Mull of Deer Ness are North 4 miles, and from the 
latter to the Gio of Shapinsha, North 7^ miles. 

In working into Stronsa firth, a vessel having weathered the Horse of 
Copinsha may reach the Mull of Deer Ness while the flood tide is running, 
as an eddy then sets along the shore of Deer Ness towards the MuU. The 
strongest tide in the firth is experienced with Green holm just open of the 
Gio, or with the Horse of Copinsha open of the Mull ; therefore, in 
standing to the westward, do not lose sight of either of these objects, and 
for th^ same reason, while standing to the northward, do not shut in War 
Ness behind Rousholm head. The stream runs very strong round the 
Gio of Shapinsha, and then sets right for Green holm, which it is better 
to pass on the north side. 

There is an eddy during the latter half of the flood under the east side 
of Shapinsha, and in this a vessel may hold her own in northerly winds 
while waiting the turn of the tide. 

TZBB8. — The main stream of flood past War Ness, running 7 knots, 
joined by the stream from £da sound, sets past Rousholm head, and clear 
of Auskerry to the open sea ; and from the Green holms, past Shapinsha 
and Deer Ness, where it is joined by the String, the usual name for the 
direct run of the stream from Eynhallow sound by Gairsa, Hellyar holm, 
and Deer Ness ; its rate between Shapinsha and Rousholm is 6 knots, and 
between the Mull of Deer Ness and Auskerry about 4 knots. 

BOOSTS. — During and after westerly gales with the ebb, there are 
roosts off the Mull of Deer Ness, the Gio of Shapinsha, and War Ness, 
and there are also roosts off the same points with southerly gales and flood 



138 OSXKETS. — EDA SOUND. [cBiLP.Tnx. 

tide, in wbich * vcbdcI would be nimmmigqiJble^ and probably founder. 
Thete roosts are generallj as evident as the bieakers npon the shore, and 
so long as there is wind enough to enable a yessel to OTer-mn the weatiier- 
tide, it will be safe in working to pass dose to th^oo, as the sea npon the 
le;^ side is smooths in i»x>porti<Mi to the violence of the breakers. 

BBA somrOy the connecting channel between the North sound and 
Stronsa firth, is, compared with most of the sounds in Orkney, a smooth 
and tranquil sea. It is formed between the south-west end of Sanda, the 
holms of Spur Ness, and Link Ness to the eastward, and Eda and the Calf 
of Eda to the westward. The eastern shore will be first described. 



IT axDMrn — ^From the holms of Eyre and Whal 
point to Buthy Taing, the north point of the bay of Herma Ness, or 
Hermansgar, the coast is low and bold. The peninsula of Heima Ness 
separates the bays of Herma Ness and Brough ; the former is shoal and 
rocky, but the latter, though exposed to northerly and westerly winds, is 
used by coasters and other small vessels for a temporary stay ; the depths 
between the points average 6 f&thoms, over a bottom of rock covered by 
sand. 

Tbe Bow of Berma Bess is a long sunken reef, extending to the north- 
west for more than | a mile from Herma Ness, with 8 and 9 feet upon it, 
and must be carefully avoided. 

Catbe Bank. — ^In the offing abreast, and in a line between Whal point 
and the Grey head of the Calf of Eda, is the Cuthe bank, a small knoll of 
sand with 10 fathoms upon it, and 18 to 20 fathoms about it. A vessel is 
said to have foundered in the broken sea upon it. 

From Brough bay to Gronafea, 1^ miles, the coast is very broken, and 
is fronted by numerous detached rocks, lying out for 1^ cables 5 and from 
Gronafea to the small green peninsula Lamba Ness, nearly abreast Lashy 
sound, the shore is low and shelving, backed by well-cultivated land 
ascending in a gentle slope to the long hill, the Ward of Sanda, upon 
the outline of which, the house of Wasetter, a useful sea-mark, is very 
conspicuous. 

In the pool upon the north-east side of Lamba Ness, are the remains of 
an old pier that was built for the formation of a boat harbour. Braewick, 
the shoal rocky bight upon the south-west side of the ness, has no anchor- 
age. The shore of Sanda from Stranquoy Taing to Spur Ness, is bold and 
free from outlying dangers. The holms of Spur Ness and Little Linga, 
forming the remainder of the eastern boundary of Eda sound,^ have been 
described on pages 116 and 117. 

CA&r of BBAf near the north entry, and upon the opposite side of Eda 
sound, i» separated/rom Eda by Calf sound (page 140). The Calf is free of 






CHAP. VIII.] DIEECTIONS POB EDA SOUND, 139 

danger all round at a moderate berth, except at its south-eastern end, where 
several rocks lie out and constitute the principal danger in passing into 
and oiit of Eda sound ;' they are named respectively the Scroggs, Lashy 
skerry, and the Bow, but they are only the highest portions of one reef, 
which projects in an easterly direction for ^ a mile. The Scroggs, those 
nearest to the sbore, appear at low water, and are separated by narrow 
channels, 3 and 4 &thoms deep ; the tide stream rushes over the rocks, 
and through the openings. Lashy skerry, near the middle of the reef, is 
generally to be seen, as it is only covered at the last quarter-flood ; at low 
water it dries for a cable, and then appears as three distinct rocks. The 
Bow, at the outer part of the reef, has 4 feet upon it, and from its advanced 
position is exceedingly dangerous. 



KT SSDB. — ^The whole of the east side of Eda is bold and firee 
from danger. In the small inlet. Mill bay, there is anchorage for fishing 
boats only, but in the bay of Lonton vessels may wait tide ; as, however, 
the water shoals in it very suddenly, it is necessary, except with vessels 
of light draft, to drop the anchor in 11 fathoms. A mile to the southward 
of Lonton, there are several churches and houses which are prominent 
objects even at a distance ; behind them the land is considerably elevated, 
find the Ward hill near the south end of the island, has a pile on its 
summit of great use as a sea-mark. The bay of Bacaskeal upon the north 
side of Ye Ness is the best stopping-place for large vessels in the summer ; 
indeed, if well found, they might remain in it through the winter. There 
are 10 fathoms over a stony bottom | of a mile off shore, and the best 
berth is off a cottage named Banks, the only one upon the shore of the 
western side of the bay. Ve Ness, and the shoals off it, are described on 
page 132. 



BisaoTZOMra A>r MDA, BOVITB. — The critical portion of the navigation 
of Eda sound, called Lashy sound, between the Calf of Eda and Sanda, is 
not so safe a passage to vessels coming from the northward as Calf sound, 
which will presently be described. 

To sail through Lashy sound, which is rather more than ^ a mile wide, 
the pile on the Ward of Eda kept open to the southward of the Established 
kirk of Eda standing upon the shore, leads to the south-eastward of the 
Bow, or the pile brought over the windmill will lead through in mid- 
channel. The deep water is upon the Sanda side, and by keeping a couple 
of cables outside the stream of the points, a vessel will have 8 to 12 
fathoms water. Having passed the Calf of Eda, keep in mid-channel 
through the remainder of the sound, taking care in entering Stronsa firth, 
to attend to the marks for avoiding Eda Groina and the^South skerry off 
Ve Ness, given on page 132. 



140 . OKKKBTS. — CALP SOUND. [cHAP.Tm. 

In taming through Lashj sound, the broken water and confused swell 
increase the risk to a vessel of missing stays, and those who are well 
acquainted with the sound, place their vessels in a proper position, and 
drift through with the tide-stream, which runs rapidly. Afterwards, the 
shores on either side are bold, and may be approached closely, but the 
western «ide of the holms of Spur Ness, being rather flat, should have a 
berth of 2 cables. 

OAvnov. — ^Lashy sound is a dangerous passage during and after a 
northerly gale, for then a roost extends right across from the reef to 
Stranquoy Taing, and breaks violently during the ebb for the whole 
distance. In a calm, when the roost is as dangerous as at other times so 
long as the swell lasts, the anchor must be let go promptly, to prevent the 
vessel being driven into the race and upon the rocks, for the tide-stream 
rushes directly over them. Should, however, a vessel be drifting out of 
Eda sound, she will go clear, provided she keeps well upon the Sanda 
side. 



80VirD»— The passage between Eda and the Calf of Eda has its 
northern entrance between two bold headlands, the Bed and Grey heads, 
which are very prominent objects, even from a considerable distance in the 
offing, being in strong contrast to the low coasts on either side. Bed head, 
upon the western side, is a noble perpendicular cliff 209 feet high, and 
Grey head is of nearly equal elevation. 

Calf sound, which first runs in to the south-west and then to the south- 
eastward (thus forming a right angle), is at one part not more than f of 
a cable wide, and a very rapid tide stream pours through it ; and though 
the water is deep enough for vessels of any draft to sail through it with 
a fair wind, it is unfit for anchorage or the passage of square-rigged vessels, 
excepting in fine weather. 

The west and south sides of the Calf of Eda are generally bold. The 
spot is still shown upon the south-west point of the islet, where the 
notorious Gow, the original of Sir Walter Scott's ^ Pirate," was wrecked. 

About 1^ cables outside Eed head is the skerry of Bed head, a rock dry 
at low water ; there is a narrow boat passage within it. Bed head is bold- 
to, but after passing the beach, or rather wall of 'boulder stones (for such 
it resembles in the regularity with which it is piled up), and where there 
is a hut for curing fish, the shore becomes more shelving, and continues so 
to the bight at Carrick ; here, a little above the brae, is the ruin of a 
cottage, consistiDg of one gable and a chimney ; farther on is a large white 
house upon the shore, and a little beyond it to the eastward, is a store- 
house ; the sound then becomes considerably contracted, but the shores are 
clean and bold. A few small rocks awash at low-water springs, named 



CHJLP.vin.] CALF SOUND. — ^DIRECTIONS.— CAUTION, 141 

the Hen and Chickens, extend for | of a cable from the south point of the 
entrance. 

DXSBCTZOxrs. — Square-rigged vessels may sail through Calf sound 
either way with a fair wind, but only small fore-and-aft craft can work 
through. By keeping in mid-channel for the whole distance there will 
not be found a less depth than 7 fathoms, and the shores, except at the 
immediate entrances, are bold and free of danger. In entering from the 
northward, the house of South Mire, near Lamba Ness in Sanda, kept 
open of Grey head, will clear Red head skerry passing to the north- 
eastward, and Carrick house kept in sight, clears its south-east side ; and 
in leaving the sound, the ruined cottage upon the incline of the hill at 
Carrick bight kept open of the storehouse, leads to the north-eastward of 
the Hen and Chickens and the kirk of Eda open of Greenie brae leads to 
the south-eastward of them. 

The usual anchorage is in Carrick bight, with the chimneys of Carrick 
house in line, and the pile on the Ward of Stove, in Sanda, just open of 
the merchants' house ; here, in 3^ fathoms, sand, a vessel will be out of 
the strength of the tide» but the anchorage space is small, for there are 
7 and 8 fathoms, rocky bottom, ^ a cable outside the above position. 

OAirrxow. — The flood and ebb streams set respectively across the north 
and south entrances of Calf sotmd right down upon Lashy rocks ; and in 
light winds, a vessel missing either entrance must immediately drop a 
kedge or larger anchor, and hold on till the wind freshens or the tide 
becomes slack. A vessel drifting in calm weather down Eda sound must 
pass very close to Greenie brae to be set into Calf sound ; when in the 
latter, should the roost at the north entry be bad, she can bring up, which 
she could not do in Lashy sound. 

It may be observed here of strong tide-ways in general, and of that 
through Calf sound in particular, that they have a tendency to set a vessel 
out of fhe strongest curi'ent into an adjoining eddy, and from this cause it 
is difficult to drift out of Calf sound with light winds, as the stream 
generally drives the vessel towards Grey head. 



142 



CHAPTER IX. 

0BKNEY8.-BYNHALL0W SOUND.— WIDBFIBTH.—SHAPINSHA SOUND. 



Yasiation in 1876. 
Costa head - - 23*'0'W. | HacoNess - - 22'' 35' W. 



■ZiOW somrB, separating the island of Eowsa from Mainland, 
is 7 miles long and | of a mile wide at its narrowest part : the islands 
Bowsa and Wjre are upon its north-east side ; Mainland is to the south- 
west; the small island Ejnhallow lies a little within the entrance and. 
near to mid-channel, while the island of Gairsa terminates the sound and 
divides it from Widefirth.* 

mcwBA, irosTB-TraBT and 80VTB-1VS8T 8ZBB8. — ^From Sacquoy 
head, noticed on page 125, the north-west coast of Eowsa to the low shelving 
point of Quendale is clear and bold, and is bcnrdered by low cliffs. Skabra 
head is a low cliff and steep-to, and beyond it, the sbore as far as West 
Ness bay, is in general fronted by ledges extending from one to two cables. 
Afterwards the coast is comparatively bold for the remainder of the distance 
through Eynhallow sound. There is summer anchorage for small vessels off 
Westness bay, but the holding ground is not good, and the water deepens 
rapidly from 4 to 10 fathoms. 

At the low point of Tretland, the coast of Bowsa, leaving Eynhallow 
sound, turns more easterly, and fonns the north side of Wyre or Weir 
sound. In front of Tretland point is a bank or bar, obstructing the west 
entry into Wyre sound, and at 1^ miles farther, opposite Tremlin point, 
an extensive sandy spit, with 7 and 8 feet upon it, stretches south-eastward 
for two-thirds the distance across the sound ; the coast then continues 
clear to the point of Avilsa, the south-east extremity of the island, and 
the divisional mark between Wyre and Howan sounds. A little westward 
of Avilsa point, the Established and Secession kirks, and the manse of the 
latter, form a conspicuous group of buildings. 

nmmB or 'VTEZR zsiLaiTD, upon the south side of Rowsa, is of a 
triangular shape, moderately elevated, and well cultivated ; several ledges 
project for more than a cable from its southern side, which should have a 
berth of 2^ cables ; but the eastern and northern sides are clear of danger 



♦ See Admiralty charts : — Orkney islands, No, 2,180 ; scale, m = 0*5 inches; and 
Scotland, east Coast, sheet Y., No. 2,181 ; scale, £? = 15j^ inches; also approaches to 
Kirkwall, No. 2,584 ; scale, m = 3 inches. 



CHAP. IX.] WYRE SOUND, TIDES. 143 

at one cable off. A knoll of 3 fathoms lies off the eastern side of Wjre, at 
some distance from the shore, and is an obstruction to heavy vessels 
entering Howan sound. 

From the north-east point of Wyre, a sand-bank, with 12 feet upon it^ 
extends in the direction of Avilsa point, and narrows the eastern entry 
of Wyre sound ; the shore of the island then continues flat as far as the 
first storehouse, and is afterwards bold to the next storehouse upon the 
shore near the west end of the island, from opposite which the bank or 
bar of 4 to 6 feet, already alluded to, trends north-westerly towards 
Tretland point in Rowsa. 

Wyre Skerries consist of four or five separate reefs, which dry at low 
water, near the west end of Wyre island, from which they are only separated 
by a gully or boat passage ; the sea-weed upon them shows for a space 
of 3 cables. The southernmost skerry, which lies with Costa head just 
open of Aiker Ness, should be marked by a beacon for the convenience of 
the coasting trade, as it is one of the principal dangers in the navigation 
of Eynhallow sound. 



somNTD, between Rowsa and Wjrre, runs in an east and west 
direction, and is 2 miles long and at least ^ a mile wide ; the course 
through it is rendered tortuous by the projecting spits already described. 

In entering Wyre sound irom the westward, Wyre island and skerries 
must be carefully avoided, as the channel, in which there is a depth of 
26 feet, is dose over towards Tretland point. The leading mark through 
is the cottages of Osnabuster, standing upon the summit of Wyre island, 
near its north-east end, kept over the easternmost storehouse upon the 
shore, bearing E.S.E. ; the same mark also leads to the southward of the 
long sandy spit stretching out from Tremlin point. While near and abreast 
the storehouse, keep upon the Wyre side of mid-channel, and when the 
storehouse has been passed, haul out north-easterly for the anchorage. 

In entering Wyre sound from the eastward, the spit from the north-east 
point of Wyre is the only obstruction, and this will be avoided by keeping 
well over towards Avilsa point. 

The usual anchorage in Wyre sound is in mid-channel a little to the 
westward of the kirks, in 7 fathoms, but every part of the sound, where 
there is sufficient depth, is protected in all winds. 

TIBBS. — One very weak stream passes eastward through Wyre sound, 
and another south of Wyre island. 



(the Holy island) is inhabited and partially cultivated ; 
the north and west sides are bold, but the south-east and south-west sides 
are flat and foul. A skerry between Eynhallow and Rowsa nearly blocks 
up the passage on that side, and Eynhallow skerries, which dry at low 



144 OBKNEYS. — ^EYNHALLOW SOUND. [chap, ix, 

water, are \ a mile to the south-east of the island, and connected Trith it 
bj a sandj ridge having less than 6 feet upon it. At the Bkerries, Costa 
head is on with the high-water mark of the south side of Eynhallcw 
N.W. ^ W., and the barrow on the Ward of Grairsa is just open of Aiker 
Ness S.&E. \ £. 

OOVTA M»il'P, the north point of Mainland, and the south-west point of 
the entrance to Ejnhallow sound, is a conspicuous object, being bordered 
by cliffs upwards of 400 feet in height : the crest of the head, ^ of a mile 
inland, is 470 feet above the sea, and slopes steeply down to the northward. 
The difis terminate in a low point a mile within the head, when the coast 
turns south-easterly into the sound. 

From Costa head to the south-eastward the coast is foul, and should 
have a berth of ^ a mile. At 1^ miles there is a ree^ named the Brag-a^ 
with less than 5 fathoms on it ^ of a mile from the shore, and only 17 feet 
at 2 cables from high-water mark ; during a westerly swell the sea breaks 
violently upon it The coast continues foul to the Brough of Burgar, 
where the reef of Burgar projects from the shore, with 15 feet upon it at 
2 cables fr*om high-water mark. A bar of 28 feet connects the reef with 
Eynhallow, and over it is formed the Burgar roost. 



B88. — From the reef of Burgar the shore is flat to the sands 
of £vie, heading the little bay upon the west side of Aiker Ness, liiere is 
fair summer anchorage off them in 5 fathoms, but the ground is rocky, 
except close in-shore. The square flat point Aiker Ness, which is well 
cultivated, is easily recognised by the large farmhouse standing by itself 
on the low ground. A small rock, named the Quoy, with 7 feet upon it, 
lies out 2 cables to the northward of the north-west part of Aiker Ness. 

A small bay upon the south-east side of the ness would form an excellent 
harbour, as it is covered in by a mud-bank, with only 3 and 4 feet water 
upon it at low-water springs ; the depth within is 3^ &thoms, but the space 
is limited. The entrance, with 3 fathoms in it, is from the westward, and 
as the water is always smooth, and the bottom is soft, a vessel would take 
no injury by trailing upon the ground. 

"vroodwick, 1^ miles from Aiker Ness, is a small bay affording berthage 
out of the stream of tide, but it is too much exposed to be a secure 
anchorage in the winter. A considerable portion of the head of the bay 
is dry at low-water springs, and outside it is a bank of soft ground, having 
upon it 13 feet at low-water springs ; between the end of this bank and 
the storehouse upon the north-east point of the bay there are 5 &thoms, 
and at the anchorage from 5 to 6 fathoms, sand and mud. 

From Woodwick to the holm of Bendal the coast is flat, and should not 
be made free with. 



CHAP. IX.] AIKER KESS. — GAIRSA. — DIEECTIONS. 146 



ttuniBA WO&T8 and "WSBT szBaB. — Gflirsa, at the inner end of 
Synhallow sound, is an islet a mile across, and has from most directions 
the appearance of a single round hill. Langskail point, its west extremity, 
is a low beach, having on it an old ruined bam, much used as a sea-mark ; 
the large farmhouse of Langskail is a cable to the eastward of it. The 
'west shore of the islet is flat, but with no outlying dangers. Upon its 
north-east side is Swine holm, a small uninhabited islet, with a narrow 
boat passage within it. Between Swine holm and the Hen of Gau'sa, a 
small peninsula at the south-east extremity of the islet, there is good 
summer anchorage in 6 fathoms, just within the line of the outer points. 



soviTB, the channel between Gairsa and Wyre, is a mile 
across, but an extensive sandy flat or spit, extending from the north sides 
of Gairsa and Swine holm, confines the deep-water channel to the opposite 
side of the sound. The general depth over the flat is 3 and 4 fathoms ; 
there are, however^ several shoaler patches upon it ; midway across the 
sound there are places with only 2 fathoms, and at one spot near the 
-western spit, J a mile to the southward of the west end of Wjrre, there is 
as little as 7 feet. Costa head, a short distance within the point of Aiker 
Ness, or the south side of Eynhallow touching Aiker Ness N.W. ^ N., 
leads right across it. In the deep-water channel of the sound there is a 
depth of 9 fathoms. 

BZRBCTZOxrs for mYmJLJULOVir BOWB. — The two narrow sounds 
on either side of Eynhallow are generally named the Burgar roost and 
Wael roost ; through the latter, which is the northernmost, there is no safe 
ship channel on account of the skerry lying out from Eynhallow, and 
also from the velocity of the tide-stream resulting from the great con- 
traction. 

Burgar roost is a safe passage, except during and after westerly gales, 
when the sea breaks right across. The least water in this channel 
(28 feet) is abreast Eynhallow. 

On entering the sound from the westward, the Braga, to the south-east- 
ward of Costa head, is avoided by keeping the barrow on the Ward of 
Grairsa open to the northward of Aiker Ness house. 

In passing through Burgar roost, keep the barrow on the Ward of Gairsa 
on with the house of Aiker Ness S.E. by S. ; this leads in mid-channel and 
clear of Burgar reef. 

The channel within Burgar roost passes between Eynhallow skerries and 
the Quoy rock off Aiker Ness. The skerries are cleared on their southern 
side by keeping Swine holm just shut in by Aiker Ness, and on their 
eastern side, in not less than 20 feet, by keeping the schoolhouse and manse 
of Aiker Ness in one, bearing S.W. ^ S. 

37383. X 




^SUP« IX. 

144 0EKNEY8. — ^BYNHALLOW SOUND. 

jion mark for 
water, are J a mile lo the south-east of the ishmd, aiw* ^ ^yjn yjgy ^^i 
by a sandy ridge having less than 6 feet upon it. ' ^ ^j^^ Ward of Gairsa 
head is on with the high-water mark of the ^ ^^^^^ passed when the 
N.W. j; W., and the barrow on the Ward of ^^gj^.^^i^ter mark of the west 
Ness S.S.E. ^ E. 

OOSTA XBAB, the north point of ^ ' ^ ^ge 143. 
the entrance to EynhaUow sound, ' ^^ath-east bay of Aiker Ness is cleared 
by cliffs upwards of 400 feet in ' .^er Ness. 
inland, is 470 feet above the 
The cli£& terminate in a Ir 
turns south-easterly int 

From Costa head _^ 

have a berth of * ^ ^^g the high-water mark of Aiker Ness, N.W. i N. 

with less than r /^-^^ ^outh-west point of Shapinsha, open of the bam 
at 2 cables fV y^^ ^^ westward of Wyre skerries, and a vessel wUl 

violenUy ' .,.-''^0 south-westward of them, in 4 fathoms water, by 
where t^ ^'/^z Costa head just plumbing the high-water boundary of 

2 cabl< ^ >"' gj^own in the accompanying view. 

'^^^ '"^'^ssed Wyre skerries, steer for mid-channel between G«.irsa 

'•'^' ta^»* Rendal, If worUng in this passage, when standing to 
r .-"^^b'^estward, to avoid the bank off Woodwick, do not shut Aiker 

> '^, gnd in standing to the eastward keep StrombeiTy Ness open of 
X'^'on Langskail point, to clear the flat to the northward of Gairsa. 
'^^iuwading to pass through Gairsa sound, when abreast the west end 
ryVj^ keep Costa head a little open of Aiker Ness. 
jrtB.— .Prom the Brough of Birsa the flood sets along shore for Costa 
^l Sacquoy heads, increasing in velocity as it approaches Westra firth. 
Xiw influence of the in-draft occasioned by EynhaUow sound, is scarcely 
felt outside the line of Costa head and the reef of Quendale. 

The flood-stream fh>m Costa head and the reef of Quendale divides near 
li^yuhaUow, and passing Burgar and Wael roosts at 7 knots an hour, re- 
uiiittvs beyond the islandi but its rate does not average more than 4 knots ^ 
(hi\n)gh Eyuhallow sound* 

It is high water, ftill and change, at West Ness in Rowsa at 9h. llm. 
Spi'inga rise 10 feet ; neapa 7^ feet, 

wnMUPimTM, the sea enclosed by Gairsa, Shapinsha, and Mainland, 
Hi^l tVvrn whence Widefbrd luD, near Kirkwall, has derived its name, is, 
o>t>»^ the northern half of it, e^ctensively occupied by small hohns and rocks, 
u\ two iM iuoij>»l grou|Ks through which there are two mtricate channels. 
AtUs* th0 vlHiviivr« hav« been doscribeil, the pilotage of each passage wiU 



vp. EX.] DIEECTIONS FOR EYNHALLOW SOUND. — GAIESA. 147 



^BA, sofrTB-TTSBT and BOVTu sinas. — Between Langskail 

Bora Ness, the west and south-west extremities of Gairsa, is a 

'upied by reefs. From Bora Ness the land trends easterly to 

named Millburn, formed under the west side of the Hen of 

''ninsula at the south-east extremity of the island. A 

feet upon it, extends from the Hen half-way to Bora 

.ring the channel between the latter and Gairsa both shoal and 

te. There are 4 fathoms in Millburn, but the space is too narrow 

1' a vessel to swing at anchor, though she might be secured in it in 

safety. To enter from the eastward, wait till half-tide ; keep . nearer to 

Bora holm than the Hen, to avoid the reef off the latter, and then 

continue in, in mid-channel. If from the southward, sail close along the 

shore of Bora Ness, so as to avoid the foul ground upon the west side of 

the holm of Bora. 

Bora Bolm and Bkerrles. — ^The Holm of Bora is a small green islet, 
^ a mile to the south-east of Bora Ness ; its eastern side is bold, but ta 
the westward of the holm are Bora skerries, three distinct rocks, two of 
which are just covered, and the third nearly awash at low-water springs ; 
their position is generaUy shown by broken water. The 'thwart mark for 
the southernmost rock is the Ward of Gairsa on with the school-house of 
Gairsa (the cottage highest up the hill) N. by E. 

Between Bora Ness and the skerries is a shoal patch with 9 feet 
upon it, and between the ness and the holm occurs another with as 
little as 6 and 7 feet, and though there are gullies between them of 
3 and 4 fathoms, they may, with the skerries, be considered as forming one 
rocky bank. 

Tbe Skertonrs, ^ a mile to^the south-east of Bora holm, is a reef, the 
weeds of which are visible at low-water springs, and it is then nearly 
dry ; the intermediate channel is :^ of a mile wide with 4 fathoms depth. 
The marks at the reef are the Ward of Gairsa over Cpwsgar cottage 
N. by W. ^ W., and the cliflF at Stromberry Ness on with the hut upon 
Tainga skerry S. by W. ;^ W. ; the reef extends 1^ cables to the northward 
of this position. 

Talnva Skerry is S. by 1^/^ E. nearly f of a mile from Bora holm, and 
j^ of a mile to the westward of Grass holm ; it is a little rocky islet almost 
destitute of vegetation, with a small hut on it ; at high water it is only 
40 yards in extent, but at low water its flat shores are uncovered for 2 cables, 
and it then appears in three masses ; the two westernmost, covered at half 
tide, are generally termed Little Tainga. 

There is no navigable channel between the Skertours and Tainga 

skerry, nor between the latter and Grass holm, both spaces being shallow 

andfouL 

K 2 



148 OKKNEYS. — ^WTDlBPIRTH. [chap. ix. 



Boim is a small green islet S.E. by S. nearly a mile irom Bora 
holm, and | a mile to the westward of Salt Ness in Shapinsha ; the north- 
east point is very foul, and to the southward of it is Broad shoal, a mass of 
foul ground reaching nearly to Yasa, but separated from it by a channel 
5 fathoms deep. A portion of the shoal dries ^ of a mile to the southward 
of Grass holm, and there are from 10 to 16 feet about it. A red buoy 
is placed on its southern edge at about ^ mile from the holm. 

▼asa Skerry and Soiud* — Off Yasa point in Shapinsha is Yasa skerry, 
just covered at high-water springs, but dry for the extent of a cable at 
low water. Upon the west side of the skerry two small rocks show at low 
water, but they are not more than ^ a cable from the summit of the larger 
rock. An iron beacon of open framework 18 feet high, amd painted black, 
stands on the south-western extremity of Yasa skerry. 

The channel, one cable in width, between Yasa skerry and the shore of 
Shapinsha, is named Yasa sound, and is the common route for vessels 
passing between Kirkwall and' the north-eastern isles. The tide runs 
rapidly through the sound, in which there are 4 fathoms in mid-channel at 
the narrowest part. 

Yasa skerry is the last of the dangers in the line between Gairsa and 
Shapinsha. 

SBAVZV8A, vomTB-vrasT BZBs. — From Gait Ness (described on 
pages 136) the north-west side of Shapinsha is low, well-cultivated, 
and sprinkled with the cottages of the peasantry, among wbich the slate- 
roofed house of West hill and a storehouse are conspicuous. Though this 
side of the island is free of outlying dangers, yet it must not be closed 
within a £9.ir berth, particularly at Salt Ness, as that point shelves off for 
some distance. Stromberry Ness, the south-west extremity of the island, 
is bold close-to. 

MAZviiAJr&f vomTB-BAST SIBB. — From the point of Mainland 
abreast Gairsa, upon the opposite side of the firth, another chain of rocks 
extends right into the centre of Widefirth, in a direction somewhat parallel 
to the holms and skerries just described. 

Seal Skerry, marked by a b^uion 20 feet high, is a rocky patch 
uncovered at the fbst hour's ebb, and is at low water a cable in extent in 
a north and south dii*ection ; it lies nearly ^ a mile to the eastward of 
the manse of Bendal, and at it the pile on Enitchinfield hill, Rowsa, 
appears midway between the farmhouse and bam of Langskail in Gairsa 
N. by E. I E., and the barrow on Work head in Shapinsha sound on with 
Stromberry Ness S. by E. J E. The east and south sides of the skeny are 
bold, but it tails off for a short distance to the northward. 

The usual passage for vessels to and from Eynhallow sound is between 
this rock and the holm of Rendal, a flat rocky islet a little to the north- 



CHAP, ix.] SHAPINSHA, N.W. SIDE. — MAINLAND, N.E. SIDE. 149 

westward, that is connected at low water with the adjacent shore. The 
passage is about ^ of a mile wide, and the depth in it is 3^ fathoms. 

Uttie Seal BkeiYy, which nearly dries at low-water springs, is a small 
reef towards mid-channel between Gairsa and the holm of Kendal, and 
lying nearly athwart the channel. The pile on Knitchinfield hill, showing 
anywhere between the farmhouse and bam of Langskail, N. by E. | E., 
leads across it. 

Poldrlte, or Voldreet Skerry, is S. by W. | W. 1^ miles from Seal 
skerry, and nearly a mile to the eastward of the farmhouse of Poldreet upon 
Bendal shore; the cross marks at it are the pile on Knitchinfield hill 
midway between the farmhouse and barn df Langskail, N. by E. | E., and 
the south part of Hellyar holm a little Open of Stromberry Ness S.E. | S. 
(southerly). As this rock is uncovered at one hour's ebb, it is generally 
to be seen. 

A narrow lidge of sand connects the Seal and Foldrite skerries ; near 
the former it has upwards of 3 fathoms upon it, the depth then varies 
between 12 and 9 feet, and about :J of a piile from the Poldrite, there is 
one spot with only 8 feet, and -it continues shallow and sandy for :^ of a 
mile to the southward of the Poldrite. 

The general direction of this sandy ridge is parallel to the Rendal shore, 
the channel between, through which the rate of the stream never exceeds 
2 knots, being on the average ^ a mile wide, with 6 fathoms ii^ it, but 
the bottom is rocky. 

Kanga and iRTest Skerries are based upon an uneven bank of sand, 
I of a mile square, nearly in the middle of Widefii-th. Langa, or Lumma, 
skerry, is a small patch ^ a cable in extent, dry at low-water springs ; 
but the sea-weed on it may be seen at all times. It is S.E. | S. 
(southerly) § of a mile from the Poldrite, and N.W. J N. 1 J mile!^ from 
Stromberry Ness. At it, the west end of Kirkwall cathedral is over the 
pier lighthouse S. by W. | W., and the south part of Hellyar holm a little 
open of Stromberry Ness S.E. | S. (southerly). A red buoy is moored 
in 4 fathoms upon the east side of Langa skerry, with the pile on Wideford 
hill over the farmhouse of Quanter Ness, S.W. by W., and Bendal manse 
in line with Breck house N. by W. \ W. 

The West skerries are ^ of a mile to the westward of Langa skerry, and 
they also dry at low-water springs. At them the Mull of Deer Ness 
appears touching Hellyar holm, S.E. \ S., and the pile on Wideford hill is 
over the Gazebo on Quanter Ness, S.W. \ W. To the S.S.W, of the 
Langa, and to the. south-eastward of West skerries, with the Mull of Deer 
Ness touching Hellyar holm, there is a small sand-bank with 9 feet upon it. 

The channels upon either side Langa and West skerries are f of a mile 
wide, with 9 fathoms in them, and in that tQ th^ ^q^hwafd^ which is 



160 ORKNEYS. — WIDBPIBrTH, [ohap. ix. 

1:^ miles wide and 7 to 9 tB&oms deep, large vessels may ride throaghoat 
the year. 

Langa skerry and the other patches al)Out it are the southernmost of 
the dangers in the body of Widefirth, and the description of the eastern 
shore of Mainland, in continuation &om Eynhallow sound, will now be 
resumed* 

Oon WMMd— >lJpon a very low green point, which runs off shoal a short 
distance to the southward of the holm of Bendal, stands the manse of 
Bendal, and ^ a mile farther to the southward is Grors Ness, a low bluff 
clear of reefs. 



ApitowB »eM, the eastern point of Wald, orlsbuster bay, is a mile to the 
south-westward of Grors Ness ; it is fronted by ree& for the distance of a 
cable, and § of a mile to the northward, another long reef extends from the 
shore abreast the &rmhou8e of Poldreet. A vessel will be well dear to the 
eastward of both reefs while she has the pile on Sjiitchinfield hill open of 
Gors Ness. 

vruid Baj. — The south-west portion and head of this bay are very flat 
and shoal, but the north-eastern side is bold. Anchor in it with Gait 
Ness on with Apitown Ness, E. by N. J N., in 7 fathoms ; here there is 
plenty of room to get under way, but small vessels may go ^ a mile farther 
in, and anchor towards the north-eastern shore in 6 fathoms. 

Bvr Vessf the north-eastern boundary of the bay of Firth, is barely 
distinguishable from the adjacent shore ; it is very flat upon the north-east 
side, there being only 12 feet at ^ of a mile from the shore, 

BAT of viBTB«— Between Burr Ness and Quanter Ness is the shallow 
bay of Firth, now much frequented for cargoes of paving stones. The 
following holms and skerries are in it. 

chibester Bkerries^ a reef ^ a mile long, extends out from the western 
shore of the bay | mile above Burr Ness ; as several portions are covered 
only at high water, the highest being near the outer part of the reef, 
it may generally be seen. The reef is very flat upon the north-east and 
south-west sides, but it is bold-to at the outer end, which is nearly 
midway between Cubester and Damsa holm. 

From Cubester skerries, the shore is shallow and clean to the head of the 
bay. 

Orlmimster BoUkm upon the south-west side of the bay, is joined at low 
water to Grimbuster point ; the Ner skerry is a long reef projecting from 
its north side, with as littie as 4 feet upon it at 2 cables off Langa 
skerry is a small rock within Grimbuster holm, and a little to the eastward 
of the manse of Firth, 



OHAP. IX.] MAINLAND, N.B. SIDE. — ^BAT OP FIRTH. 151 

BaniMM a smaU green islet ^ of a mile long, with a white house on it, is 
^ of a mile to the eastward of Grrimbuster holm ; from its north end a 
mud-bank of 2 fathoms, having on it a rock of 6 feet, the Midsound Baa, 
extends nearly across the entrance of the bay of Firth. Between Damsa 
and Grimbuster holm is a very narrow channel with 8 feet in it. 

JLSrCBOXACUSS. — ^There is good anchorage in the bay of Firth for 
coasting vessels in 4 fathoms between Bur Ness and the skerries of 
Cubester. 

The space between Damsa and the south-east shore of the bay is named 
Damsa Sound ; it has from 4 to 5 fathoms in it over a muddy bottom, and 
there is very little tide set through it ; but as there is as little as 7 feet 
between Damsa and Ferry point, it is necessary to wait till half-tide 
before going in. It is an excellent place for vessels to be laid up in 
during winter. To the southward of Damsa, there is a depth of 15 feet as 
far up as the manse of Firth. 

In the body of the bay of Firth, between the holm of Grimbuster and the 
western shore, there is an average depth of 4 and 5 fathoms^ mud, and the 
water is always smooth ; but, on account of the muddy bank of 12 feet 
extending nearly across from the north point of Damsa, it is better to wait 
for half-tide before entering. At the head of the bay there are 2^ fathoms, 
over mud, 3 cables from the shore ; from whence the water shoals rapidly 
to abreast the kirk, where there are 7 feet. 

^VAWTBR VBBB and SXBBRT^ — Quanter Ness runs off very shoal, and 
nearly ^ a mile to the northward of it is Quantemess skerry, which is 
covered at last quarter flood. This skerry is fat on all sides, and, at low 
water, it dries for 1^ cables, at which time there are 3^ fathoms in the 
channel between it and the shore. The manse of Firth well open of 
Ferry point, W. by S. ^ S., leads to the north-west of Quantemess skerry, 
and the tower of Kirkwall cathedral open of Savrock house S. ^ E., clears 
its north-east side in 4| fathoms. 

From Quanter Ness to Crow Ness, the north-western point of Kirkwall 
bay, the shore trends to the south-east, and is comparatively bold. 

Scargun. — Off this portion of coast is the Scargun, a small skerry, with 
8 feet over it at low-water springs, surrounded by a sand-bank, J of a mile 
across, with 2 to 3 fathoms upon it. At the reef, the west end of the 
cathedral is on with the high-water mark of Crow Ness, S. J W., and the 
pile on Hellyar holm is in line with the pile on Thieves holm, E. | S. 

A red buoy is moored on the north-eastern side of the Scargun, in 
2^ fathoms, with the beacons on Thieves holm and Hellyar holm in one, 
and the cathedral ^ point open to the eastward of Crow Ness. 

In the wide cliannel between Severoch and Scargun there are 5^ fathoms, 
• and to sail through it, keep the cathedral midway between Severoch and 



152 0BKNBY8. — ^WTDBFIRTH. [chjlp. ct. 

Crow Ne88, S. ^ £^ until the barrow on Helljar holm i^pears open to the 
Boaih-eastward of Thieves hohn, £. J S. To clear the Scai^un passing 
to the northward, keep the barrow on Hellyar holm open to the northward 
of Thieves holm ; to pass to the southward of it, the barrow on Hdlyar 
holm must be kept well open to the southward of Thieves holm ; and to 
dear it passing to the eastward, keep Badston house open to the southward 
of Severoch, S.W. ^ W. 



% immediately to the eastward of Crow Ness, is ^ a 
mile wide and deep, and is open to winds from the northinuird and north- 
eastward, but the soundings are regular throughout ; the holding ground 
is good, as the bottom is a dark tenacious claj, and there is never sufficient 
sea to cause a vessel to part her cables ; indeed, it is so safe an anchorage, 
that vessels seeking shelter in the Orkneys from southerly gales should run 
for it in preference to Deer sound or Inga Ness bay, and the vicinity of 
the town would enable them to get supplies or a temporary refit, if 
necessary. As the depths in the bay are not 'great, large vessels must 
bring up in 5^ fathoms, mud and sand, with the Gazebo at Quanter Ness 
open of Severoch N.W, ^ N., and nearer to Crow Ness than the eastern 
shore, but those of about 12 feet draft and under may go farther in, till 
the three points, Quanter Ness, Severoch, and Crow Ness, are in line 
N.N.W. ^ W., and the tower of the cathedral is over the pier lighthouse 
S. by W. I W. ; here there are 3 and 4 fathoms, over sand and mud. 
Ships of heavy draught should anchor in 7 fathoms, with Balfour castle 
on with the south extreme of Thieves holm N.E. by E. J E., and the 
lighthouse on the pier head S. by W. | W., distant about 9 cables ; as the 
6-fathom8 space at the upper part of the roads is narrow, it is not advisable 
to go nearer the town, nor should Balfour castle be opened to the south- 
ward of Thieves holm. The best holding ground is upon the western side 
of the bay. 



I, the capital of the Orkneys, is situated at the head of 
Kirkwall bay ; the principal buildings are the cathedral of St. Magnus, 
and the United Presbyterian kirk ; the former, a fine massive structure of 
red sandstone, was founded in 1138 ; the choir has long been used as the 
parish kirk. Near the cathedral are the remains of the earl's and bishop's 
palaces. The plaiting of straw for hats and bonnets, which about 30 or 
40 years ago employed between 6,000 and 7,000 females, and was the 
chief manufacture in the islands, is now annihilated ; fishing is still pro- 
secuted with success. Kirkwall, however, derives its principal importance 
from being the general shipping port for all the islands. Its small harbour, 
constructed between the years 1812-24, dries nearly throughout at low- 
water springs ; it has, at the most, accommodation for about 30 sail of 



CHAP. «.] KIEKWAM. BAY AND HARBOTJB. 153 

coasting vessels not drawing more than 12 feet. Daily postal oom« 
munication with the South is maintained vi& Thurso. 

• &ZOBT. — ^A lighthouse stands at the outer extremity of the east pier, — 
the light, bright 9Ji^fixedy is exhibited from August to April only, and 
greatly facilitates entry into the harbour. 

Bsports. — ^Agricultural produce, salted fish, and cattle, are exported 
in considerable quantities in steamers which ply regularly to Granton 
and some of the intermediate ports. In 1 874 20,000 barrels of herrings 
and large quantities of dried or pickled fish were exported. 

Imports. — The imports are chiefiy, coal, lime, salt, and timber. 

Trade. — The number of vessels belonging to the port, in 1874, was 
40, the tonnage of which amounted to 2,156 tons, and they were worked 
by 189 men ; the arrivals at Kirkwall during the year were, vessels with 
cargo, 1,269 ; in ballast, 276 : the sailings were, vessels with cargo, 1,170 ; 
in ballast, 334, There are vice-consuls resident from France, Fritssia, 
Norway and Sweden, and Denmark. 

There is no patent slip at Kirkwall, and small vessels requiring repair 
have to be beached for the purpose. 

Fopnlation. — Population in 1871 numbered 3,436. 

Water of good quality is obtained either from the wells in the town, 
or from the numerous rivulets which discharge into the bay. Vessels 
generally supply themselves from the latter.* 

Coai« — English and Scotch coal may always be had for steamers ; 
they are sent alongside in lighters, and in fine weather a vessel may be 
coaled with considerable despatch. 

CAS arSBS, the north-eastern point of Kirkwall bay, and at the 
junction of Shapinsha sound with Widefirth, is flat upon the north side, 
and should have a berth of ^ of a mile. Opposite a small jpoint on the 
eastern shore of Kirkwall bay, \ a mile from Car Ness, a small rock, named 
Iceland skerry or Clett, lies out a cable from the shore. The prominent 
house, Ellwick Bank, in Shapinsha, open of Car Ness leads outside it. 

Tbleves Holm, a small islet one cable over, is upon the notth-west side 
of Car Ness, and the boat channel or sound between them has 12 feet 
in it at low water. From the north and south ends of the holm reefs 
extend for | of a cable, and it requires care to avoid them. 

DZRBCTioira for vnjnonMVU. — ^A vessel bound for Kirkwall, either 
from Eynhallow sound or from the north-eastward . between Gairsa and 
Shapinsha, has in each case' the choice of several channels, through which 
there is little difficulty in making a passage, but it is only with moderate 



* * There is not a sufficient supply of water for the requirements of more than one or 
two large ships of war.' Mr. G. Marsh, Master, R.N., H.M.S. Edgar, 1863. 



164 OSKKKn.— ^WIPXFIBTH. [chap, ixm 

windB and §00061 water, and assisted by a pilo^diat a sqaare-i^ed 
yeseel should attempt to torn through them. 
From EynhaUow sound, the pilotage of the Marions traduis aafcAows : — 

Atonff Brnidal ahore^ — ^Havhig arrived betweoi Grairsa and Mainland, 
keep the pile on Knitchinfield* hill a very little open to the northward of 
the old bam of Langskail, to clear Little Seal and Seal berries passing to the 
westward Having passed the shoal point on which the manse of Bendal 
standee then keep the pile on Knitchinfield hill ov» mid-chaimel, or half- 
way between Rendal manse and the old bam of Langskiul, and it will lead 
past Gors Ness and to the westward of Foldrite skerry, and when the 
Mnll of Deer Ness appears open of HeUyar holm, a course may be shaped 
towards EirkwaU bay, taking care to avoid the Scargun lying in the track. 

Bovad lbmng% wauny^ — ^The channel to the eastward of Seal and Langa 
skerries is the widest and deepest, and the navigation of it is easily 
accomplished by those who can recognise the marks. 

Being between Gairsa and Mainland, keep the pile on the Ward of 
Bowsa on with the old bam of Langskail N. f W., and it will clear Little 
Seal skerry on the north-east side, and after Seal skerry f has been passed, 
and the Hen of Gairsa shows to the eastward of Bora holm, then open the 
pile on the Ward of Bowsa to the westward of the old bam, so as to clear 
Bora skerries on their south-west side. The channel between Bora and 
Foldrite skerries is ^ a mile wide, and between Tainga and Langa skerries 
1 mile in width, and the leading mark through the middle of it is the Ward 
of Bowsa kept midway between Gairsa and the shore of Kendal. If the 
red buoy upon the Langa is in its place, it will show the position of that 
rock, otherwise, continue with the last mark on until within ^ a mile of 
Stromberry Ness, or until the tower of the old kirk in Egilsha appears 
on with the Hen of Gairsa N.N.E. J E., and then shape a course for 
EirkwaU bay. 

Among the rocks and holms between Gfdrsa and Shapinsha there are 
three navigable channels, namely, between Bora holm and the Skertours, 
between Vasa skerry and Broad shoal, and between Vasa skerry and 
Shapinsha; the latter passage is called Vasa sound. These channels are 
so disposed that, with the wind from an adverse quarter, a vessel can lie 
through one or the other of them with the assistance of the weather tide. 

Between Bora Bolm and tbe 8kertoiim.^This channel has Bora holm 
and skerries to the north-westward, and the Skertours and Tainga skeny 
to the south-eastward. 

Proceed close along the Hen of Gairsa as it is bold-to, and when Rendal 
manse appears open of the south end of Bora holm, bring Howan house in 



* Field, properly feld, a hill, 
t Marked by a beacon. 



CHAP. DC.] DIREOTIONS FOB WIDBVIRTH. 166 

Egilsha on with the Hen of Gairsa N.E. f N. ; this is the leading mark 
through, and when abreast Tainga skerry bring the cottages of Ross Ness 
in Gairsa on with the north-east Qnd of Bora holm N. by E. ^ E., to avoid 
the sandy spit projecting from it, keeping them so until the Ward of 
Bowsa appears midway between Gairsa and Bendal, when proceed as 
before directed. 

Tbroagria tbe Broad Bddy.^— This channel, used when the wind is too 
scant to admit of sailing through Yasa sound, has Broad shoal to the 
north-westward, and Yasa skerry to the south-eastward, and is so short 
that, when the tide is running strong, a vessel can nearly shoot through 
it into deep water. 

Having the Hen of Gairsa open of Grass holm, so as to avoid Broad 
shoal, bring the south-east angle of the garden wall at Gait cottages over 
the north angle of a creugh (a waUed plot of ground) standing upon the 
shore of Salt Ness E. by N. | N., and it will lead through in not less than 
5 fathoms. 

The Broad shoal and Scargun buoys should be left on the starboard hand, 
and Yasa beacon on the port hand, when proceeding to Kirkwall. 

Tbrouffii Vasa 8oond«— This channel, having 4 fathoms in it, is the one 

most commonly used; it has Yasa skerry to the north-westward, and 
Shapinsha to the south-eastward. Having passed Salt Ness, keep some 
part of the Hen of Gairsa open of Grass holm until the east end of 
Kirkwall cathedral touches the cliff of Stromberry Ness, which is the 
leading mark through. 




Kirkwall cathedral touching Stromberry Ness, S.W. } S. 

CAUTiov. — It is necessary to have these objects brought on in good 
time, for as Yasa skerry lies transversely to the line of channel, the tide 
sets strongly across the north end of it, and as it also runs rapidly through 
the channel, which is only a cable wide, the greatest care must be observed 
in keeping the mark exactly on. 

If working towards Kirkwall from the neighbourhood of any of the 
above channels, it is necessary, when standing to the south-westward, to 
keep the cathedral open of Crow Ness to avoid the Scargun ; and Ellwick 
bank open of Car Ness to clear Iceland skerry, when standing to the 
eastward. 

TIDB8. — Off Swine hohn, the flood-stream, passing south of Wyre island, 
unites with that from Westra firth, but the rate scarcely exceeds 2 knots. 
In the narrow channels among the gronp of hohns between Gairsa and 
Shapinsha, the flood sets southerly at the rate of 6 knots. 



156 0KXHST8. — 8HAPINSHA SOUND. [ohap.iz. 



It is high wateTyfrnD and diaiige, in Kirkwall roads at 10 h. 9m. ; 
springs rise 10 feet, neaps 7^ feet. 

Tlie main stiaan frcMn Ejnballow sound passes sonth of Gairsa, and 
tbea transTO'selj to Stromberrj Ness and on throngh Shapinsha sound. 



more commonlj known as the String, contained 
betireen the soath-west ade of Shapinsha and the shore of Mainland, is 
aboat 4 miles in length, and the breadth varies from 2 miles at the entrance 
between Haco Ness and Berwick head, to ^ a mile between Hellyar holm 
and Work head, the shores being very irregular. 



L — ^From Haco Ness, described on 
page 136, the south-west ^ore of Shapinsha £ei11s back and forms Kirk 
bajy where an eddy is formed bj the flood-stream, in which vessels often 
keep under waj, or thej anchor off the kirk, in 10 fathoms. There are 
no outljing rod» in Crk baj, but the ledges from Haco Ness should not 
be made too free with. 



is a small green islet, with a barrow and pile on its 
summit, and a ledge, dry at half-tide, connects its north-east end with 
Shi^insha ; the outer sides of the holm are generally bold. 

BUL'WZCX. — Hellyar holm covers in Ellwick, a nearly circular and a 
secure little bay, with its entrance from the westward, 2 cables wide and 
3^ fathoms deep. The harbour is ^ a mile wide, with 7 and 8 &thoms in 
the centre, over excellent holding ground, and no safer place could be 
found to lay a vessel up for the winter. The north-east side of Hellyar 
hohn is rather flat, but round the remainder of the bay there are 2 fathoms 
a cable from the shore. The usual anchorage is rather towards the 
west side, opposite the village of Balfour, a&id the small pier harbour 
below it. 

From the north-west point of the entrance to Ellwick, as £ftr as 
Stromberry Ness, the south-west point of Shapinsha, reefs extend off for 
nearly a cable, and require a good berth on account of the rapid tide- 
stream which sweeps past them. A little back from the shore, on a 
gently rising ground, is Balfour castle, the seat of the proprietor of 
Shapinsha ; the style of ardiitecture, being a combination of that of various 
periods, gives the building a picturesque appearance, somewhat resembling 
Abbotsford; it is a conspicuous object from all the sea approadies to 
Kirkwall. 



U upon the <^posite side at the entrance to the sound, 
is low, and a reef extending from it for a cable is nearly always above 
water and steep-to. Upon the west side of it is what appears to be the 
ruin of an ancient pier ; it shows only at low water, and extends as hr 
out as the end of the reef. 



CHAP. IX.] TIDES, — INGANESS BAY, 157 



r. — ^To the westward of Berwick head the land falls back 
to the southward, and forms Yensta bay, with its low flat shores. The 
bottom of the bay is rocky, but vessels sometimes anchor in it in light 
winds^ pr to wait tide. 

YBWBTA BXBBRT. — Upon the wcst side of the bay, near Yensta head, 
is Yensta skerry, a flat rock nearly dry at low water, 2 cables from the 
shore, and occupjdng a considerable part of the western angle of the bay. 
It is out of the way of passing vessels, and those entering Inga Ness bay 
will avoid it by keeping the red low clifl*, Birston head, well open of 
Yensta head, W. J S. 

tKUAXMSB BAT,* between Yensta head and Inga Ness, is 2 miles 
deep, 1 mile, wide, and has an average depth of 7 fathoms throughout. The 
west side of the bay is bold ; the east side is flat. As there are no hidden 
dangers near it, with the exception of Yensta skerry just described, no 
special directions are necessary for entering it. 

Inganess bay is an excellent harbour for vessels of a large class, and 
frigates could ride in it in safety throughout the year ; for though it is 
open to the north-eastward, any swell from that quarter is intercepted 
and borne down by the tide-stream setting through the String.f Deer 
sound, however, is a preferable harbour for coasters and small vessels. 

Tlie position for anchorage must be determined by the size of the vessel ; 
those of large draft should go half-way up off" the bay of Birston, into 
7 fathoms, sand, for here there is plenty of room for getting under way ; 
but in entering the bay for refuge, it is preferable to anchor towards either 
shore, according as the wind is from the eastward or westward. 

From the head of Inga Ness or Holland, which is bold, the coast is 
further indented by Meal and Car Ness bays, separated from each other 
by Work head ; both bays are small, and should never be preferred to 
the better anchorages near them. Upon the north-west side of Meal bay 
is a skerry which is never entirely covered ; it will be cleared on the 
outside by keeping the barrow on Hellyar holm open of Work head. 

Work head, on which there is a conspicuous barrow, is bold upon the 
north side. In Car Ness bay, to the westward, are no detached rocks, but 
the water shoals suddenly in front of it, and it is not a desirable anchorage. 

TZBB. — The tide-stream is narrow in its passage between Work head 
and Hellyar holm, nor does the String (the core of the stream) expand 
for some distance past those places ; the rate of springs is about 3 knots, 

and the stream does not turn until 1;^ hours af'ter high water on the shore. 

« 
■ ■- - -,... 

* See Admiralty chart, Deer sound and Inganess bay, No. 2,583; scale, 
m » 3 inches. 

f Inganess bay is an eiLcellent anchorage for jiarge ships. Fish may be caught with 
a seine ; and supplies from the neighbouring farms and cottages are abundant. 
Mr. G. Marsh, Master, B.N., H.M.S. Edgar, 1863. 



Tiri3^-r% 30r3rD. [ouf. 



■£!*» •MHmi 4i<iui(. t«9 "w^iL :rf ae itiiina. Fmn. Ti5cT*s ^^^^^^ the eoozse 
bal d--»uai^ -n In* mfhting* zi EcirviZ laj ir» SlW. ^ Su. 1^ Biile&. 

fOiimii smzii 91 iic ii!n«» SsTftK^ ±r2k as 3«i ena^i^ hsx la ieceh Haeo- 

aiwnn» 'Sid -irui uf Siucoiimflb. Ix «=MWi?^ig^ aerae tevsidii t&e sovth ade 
tc ix«!^ xnns^ se r^e^ ic Sdrv^j^k ie^ aaii Tect$sa ^[srr wiZ be xroided 
Tf WYTTir-^g n -sijt £iry:rt:ntf jtt^bl gk po^ 1-57. KZrk bdj. iqMXi the 
*i:n*'.£2£ ^itt*, ams mc :•» iscxp&i, s> as io keep ia dkfr sreagdi <^ the 



T.iA» ifin^ fiiie :£ H±L7^r Ibdia 5if «SciEp-4«SL bet it k Kxes any to gire 
Cir ^^ss A£L«t T.ufV'*^ itTiTT ft ?:t>i tenL. KL*i i=. ft^zbiir^ towards Langm 
sue ^*:^ si^^rre*. ':« sK-ifil ic Oiti l«*c:r& ihc lU brtftd foodieE Hefijar 
i^-im, 'ms 5x r^sbsn^ ^zje irxy xp:« Lftz^ sk-sRT wiH be a saffident 

Tie ^M.TT * ne^wtei W^k hs^i XLd CarsesK b&j saj be closed to nearlj 
ja^' ^ cuiLe. T^ eisrsEi* icc:L pciat of Thie^crf bxsi toodmig» bnt 
2iii sm^ ^ w^::;^^ isif^ ixs^sce ^ Car nesa, wiH dear all dazi^en bere. 

Tie snEi *^»i w^^ Bi?* c« HcZJjar bexa are steep-to. In standing 
^-wtrhi £*Lfnir ot^cj^ a=»l Scracii^rrr neas. a good mark to avoid the 
«oaH: la^k ~r-r-.y ?>*i^-^ 2* »3« to tciz^ tfee low point of Berwid^ bead 
=-^fi* ;2j4 <>tivt^ zcijst of HcZtth" bt>Ii3- Tbc BCTtb azid west sides of the 
^Azi 5^ir?ciiz>rz^ T!i5er«g kcoa wiH be ckared. by heeding the pile of 
fira 'g T""*'^^ c£ W:ck. wkici sca&d ocz^^HcacGslj cm the outline within 
W:rk iifai- cc«bi oc Car aeasw'*' 

i a ■ ■ ■— T ibr zakmw port cf the String, betwerai fielljar holm 
i^ti Woi biad. tie raciii tSie (socKdiaes nmning 4 knots at springs) 
^feft r^^es 3it:i a sbcn tiri sea as to caose a resd to mi« stays. Under 
<c^:^ c«?i3255az!«s it 5s l«Jer to wait for mediate weather at an 
aac&cc^irtr :3 eoe c^ ^)e se&£rLr«irir;.g bays, than to risk the loss of the 



« Cjcc&s F. A^ SisM^w^BJLS. AhimJtir, 1861. 



169 



CHAPTEB X. 

ORKNEYS.— HOY, HOLM, AND WATER SOUNDS.— SCAPA FLOW,&c.* 



Vabiation in 1876. 
StromnoM - - 22®66'W, | Hoirqaoyhead - - 22°40'W. 



BOT Bonrn.— -The western coast of Mainland from the Brough of Birsa 
southwards is bold-to, nearly direct, and free of outlying dangers at a 
short distance ; thus a vessel will be in safety at a berth of ^ a mile from 
point to point. 

Hoy Mouth, the western entrance to Hoy sound, may be distinguished from 
considerable distance by the red sandstone cliffs of Hoy head (1,000 feet 
high), a,nd bj the. remarkable detached pinnacle rock called the Old Man of 
Hoy (page 179) ; it being thus easy of recognition is of great importance, 
as the much frequented harbour of Stromness is immediately within it. 

Hoy sound is included between Brak Ness and Houton head upon the 
shore of Mainland to the north-eastward, and Hoy and Green heads in Hoy 
to the south-westward, and the island Gremsa divides it into two channels ; 
Burwick sound, the southern passage, is, however, unfit for ordinary 
navigation. The general direction of Hoy sound is N.W. by N. and 
S.E. by S. ; it is 7 miles long, and on an average 2 miles wide. 

MAxmuuTB, BOVTB-'vrBST 8XDB. — ^Black craig, a mile to the north- 
ward of Hoy mouth, is, as its name implies, a dark cliff, and is 240 feet 
high. 

BBAX BBSS, or Brcck Ness, a low point distinguished by the house of 
Brackness, is very dangerous, as reefs dry out from it for a cable, and 
beyond them is the Braga, a detached skerry, 3 cables from the shore at 
'its outer part. On it the sea beats violently. 

The ruinous gable of an old kirk, forming a conspicuous sea-mark, 
stands on a low point a mile to the south-east of Brak Ness, and nearly 
directly off it are the Kirk rocks, formerly called the holm of Hellyar, 
a small portion of the mass only just shows at high-water springs, but at 

* SeeAdsxdcelty charts : — Orkney islands, No. 2,180 $ scale, m»0 *5 inches $ Scotland, 
east coast, Sheet V., No. 2,181 $ scale, d » 15j'inches ; Hoy sound, No. 2,568; scale, 
mad inches $ and Long Hope and Widewall harbours. No. 2,681 ; scale, m •- 8 inches. 



158 OEKHBTS. — SHAPINSH> .^ff. Ichap. x. 



yp' 



^^ 



it* 



The tide inflhore near Tensta »• ^ , -' • ' ^/^r/*^ ^X"i o^ » n*^® ^>^<>™ *^e 
eddy, befofe hi^ wstor.* ''S^']^nel tbroagh Hoy mouth, it is one 

Shapinsha somid ' . ^ l^J^ X^ -^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^ ^^^^ "'^ ^^^^^ 

outlying dao<- . ' • .^■^'"""'J^^'' '^ ^ ^^^ *^^ moderately bold to the low 

the sound >\\'i^''^'^poiot ^^^ ^® harbour of Stromness. Shelving 

and dk ^^^ ^"^-tide, fringe the shore ; 1^ cables from which, and 

^ i^^^"^ \ at low wBteTf is the skerry of Ness, a rock very much 
_ jH^f*^ y. ^eBsels passing through the narrows of Hoy mouth, or 
r ^ '^^ ^ 0at of Stromness harbo.ur. A pillar beacon 29 feet high 

^^m^tgmwi^* — ^6 harbour of Stromness is an arm of the sea extending 
^^0 northward for a mile immediately within the ness, and defended 

^^fimrd by the two small holms of Cairston that are connected together, 
and with the main at low water ; a cottage stands on the northern hokn, 
and upon the other is the ruin of a windmill, which serves all the purposes 
of a beacon. A sand-bank fills up the bight upon the north side of the 
ness, and the outer edge of it, lying nearly in a straight line from the ness 
Ui the south end of the town, with 3 feet upon it and 5 fathoms close to it, 
is marked by a hUtck buoy in 3 fathoms, with the old mill on the outer holm 
of Cairston, E. f N. ; a cottage on Gremsa in line with Sandside house, 
S. ^ W, ; Kame of Hoy, W. | S. ; and Stromness Free kirk manse, in line 
with the school-house, Stromness, N. by W. The head of the harbour is 
shoal for 3 cables, and the west sides of the holms of Cairston are flat for 
some distance. 

The town of Stromness skirts the shore of the harbour for f of a mile, 
under the shelter of the high ground which rises immediately behind it, and 
consists principally of one very narrow irregular street ; the houses near the 
water's edge having, in many instances, landing places and quays attached, - 
where small vessels load and discharge cargo. The Established kirk, 
standing a little above the town, is the most prominent building. There 
is a patent slipway near the Ness, which is capable of taking up vessels of 
400 tons ; and in the same yard small repairs may also be effected. With 
the exception of a ropery, the town possesses no manufactures, and is 
entirely supported by shipping. Population in 1871 numbered 1,634. 

A mail steamer plies daily in the summer months, and three times a week 
in winter, between Stromness and Thurso. 

Stromness furnishes a large proportion of the" men employed in the 
Greenland and Davis strait fisheries. 

The channel into Stromness harbour is only one cable wide, and as 
the sides are steep, the lead is of little use in turning ; but the buoy upon 
the edge of the bank is an excellent guide for the general direction of the 



CHAP. X.] STR03f NESS. — CAIBSTON BOAD. 161 

channel. The holding ground within is very good, and the best position 
for anchoring is abreast the inner holm in 4^ fathoms ; but the harbour is 
often so full of shipping as to resemble a floating dock, and it is necessary 
to be content with any vacant space that offers ; an inner berth, however, is 
of less consequence, as the whole of the harbour is well protected, and the 
water is smooth throughout. 

It is difficult for a square-rigged vessel to turn into or out of Stromness 
harbour on account of the narrowness of the channel, but in flne weather 
it is frequently accomplished with the assistance of a pilot, and by taking 
advantage of high water for the purpose. Vessels also at times stand in 
as far as they can fetch, then anchor, and warp in the remainder of the 
distance. 



I. — It is high water, full and change, at Stromness at 9h. Om. ; 
springs rise 10 feet, neaps 7^ feet. 

CAUTZOir. — If bound out of Hoy mouth, it is necessary in quitting 
Stromness, to be well clear of the harbour before the ebb makes, or should 
a calm occur, an anchor must be dropped at once, for the ebb stream sets 
right over the skerry of Ness at the rate of 6 or 7 knots. 



soABf is between Cairston holms, the point of Bue, or 
Cairston, and Mallow bank, a shoal projecting from the eastern shore. The 
eastern sides of the holms are flat, with only 18 feet at 2^ cables from the 
shore ; a spit also extends to the south-east from the point of Bue ; the 
latter is cleared by keeping Stromness kirk open of Bom Ness, the point 
of Mainland upon the east side of Stromness harbour. 

Mallow bank is situated between the holms of Cairston and the shore at 
Clestron, from which it is separated by a narrow channel with 6 fathoms 
in it. Upon the eastern part of the bank opposite Irland bay, there is as 
little as 9 feet, but upon the west end there are 16 and 20 feet ; it is, 
therefore, an impediment only to vessels of heavy draft. The whole bank 
is a soft muddy sand, upon which mallow, or sea grass, grows plentifully. 

Cairston road is a summer anchorage for small vessels ; and large ones 
may ride in it at all times, for the rapid tide-stream through Hoy sound, 
serves to prevent any weight of sea being thrown in. A vessel approach- 
ing the anchorage will not have less than 12 feet across the Mallow hank 
if the hillock of How be not opened to the eastward of the point of Bue ; 
the bank is cleared on its north side by keeping the house at StromnesF| 
called the citndel, open to the northward of the old mill on Cairston holm 
W.N.W. ; and to clear the south-west tail of the bank, keep Stromness 
kirk open to the southward of the north holm of Cairston. There is no 
good mark for clearing the bank passing to the southward, where it is very 
steep, but there is generally sufficient ripple over it to define its limits. 

S7383. L 



162 O&KNBTS. — HOT SOUND. [ch^p. x. 

The beat anchorage in Cairston road is in 7 or 8 fathomg, with the point 
of NetM touching the outer extrenutj of H07, W. ^ 8., and Stromness kirk 
over the cottage on the north hohn of Cairston, N.W. ^ N. 



% nearly a mile wide, is a secure anchorage with any wind ; 
it isy however, shoal, and but seldom used ; there are no outlying dangers in 
it, but upon the west side off the point of Bue there are only 10 feet at a 
cable from the shore. The best berth for small vessels is off the Bue of 
Cairston in 3 fathoms, mud. 

ciMtroa ak«Riea are some reefs extending 3 cables from the shore 
near Clestron storehouse ; several portions show at \ ebb, and at low 
water they are nearly connected with the shore ; the east end of Mallow 
bank is separated from them by the narrow 5 fathoms channel before 
alluded to. 

There is no good 'thwart mark for these rocks, but their position is 
generally indicated by the tide. The pitch of Houton head kept open of 
the intervening land, leads 2 cables outside the skerries, and they have 
been passed when the mill of Clestron is abreast. 

A buoy, properly placed near this danger, would serve both to mark it 
and the southern side of Mallow bank. 

Between the mill of Clestron and Peter skerry, the shore may be closed 
to a cable. 

veter Bkeirjr is a small reef, (the weeds on which are visible at spring 
tides,) near the middle of a narrow sand-bank that lies parallel witib, and 
2 cables from the shore, | of a mile to the north-west of Houton head. 
The west side of the bank is very steep, and to clear it and the skerry, 
keep some portion of tlie holm of Houton outside Houton head. 

A red buoy lies in 3^ fathoms outside the stream of the north-west 
end of the shoal, with Orrykirk farmhouse in line with Scaradale farm- 
house, E. ^ N. ; a fannhouse in Hoy, its apparent length clear of Green 
head S. by W. J W. ; Ppllizfen's house at Stromness N. by W. ; and 
Houton head S.S.E. | E. 

Houton Bead, at the junction of Hoy sound with Scapa Flow, is a 
round bold headland and free of danger ; but the small bight between it 
and the holm of Houton is shoal, and must be avoided. 



I. — From Hoy head, known to Orkney men 
as the Kame of Hoy, the cliffs northward decrease in height, and are 
fronted by reefs, and at the low point of Brebister, a mile from the head, 
the rocky ledges extend fully 2 cables. To give this part of the coast a 
good berth, as is usual, it is necessary to keep the house of Clestron open 
of the point of Oxan in Gremsa. 



CHAP.x.] HOY, NORTH-EAST SIDE, — GEEMSA. 163 

Tbe Bow is a sunken rock with 7 feet upon it, 4 cables to the north- 

' of Brebister point, and the water is shoal for 2 cables about it. The 

t mark for this danger is Black craig over the high-water boundary 

Ness N. by E. 

to the eastward of Brebister point, Hoy skerries project from 

%r more than half channel over towards Gremsa ; these rocks 

^ ebb, and at low water form three separate patches. Burwick 

a, the unsafe channel between the skerries and Gremsa^ is only a 

cable wide, with 5 fathoms in it. 

Bnrwiok, which gives its name to the sound, is a small sandy bay off 
the kirk and manse of Hoy ; its sandy margin dries out for 3 cables, and 
just beyond it is Quoys bay ; here an anchorage is sometimes taken up in 
summer, with Burwick Bue on with the northern point in 7 fathoms, but 
the holding ground is not good. The edge of the sand iix the bay is 
generally marked by the discolouration of the water, and it is usual to 
anchor f of a cable outside it to avoid the strength of the tide. 

The riemlieu is a narrow sand-bank, f of a mile long, nearly in mid- 
channel between the bay of Quoys and Gremsa ; it has from 14 to 16 feet 
upon it, and its position may generally be distinguished by the lighter 
colour of the water over it, Brak Ness, open of the west point of Gremsa, 
clears the shoal passing to the westward, and the house of Clestron well 
open of Gremsa clears its south-east side. 

From the bay of 'Quoys. to Green head, the north-east side of Hoy is free 
of outlying danger, and may be approached to ^ a cable* 



ii. — This island, of an irregular crescent shape, with the concave 
side to the northward, lies in the middle of Hoy sound, and is surrounded 
by shoals, which, upon its north-east side, extend off a considerable 
distance. 



I, — Two lighthouses built of stone have beei> erected on 
the island, the lights from which were first exhibited on the 15th May 
1861, The lower lighthouse, near Oxan point, the north-west extremity 
of the island, is 20 feet high, and the light is 55 feet above high water ; 
the higher lighthouse stands on the point of Saudside, the north-east 
extremity of the island ; it is 90 feet high, and the light shown from it is 
115 feet above high water ; they bear from each other respectively 
S.E. I E. and N.W. | W., 2,237 yards ; in moderately clear weather 
they may be seen from 11 to 15 miles off. 

The high light infixed, and red when seen from seaward, but it shows 
as as a bright light in the direction of Strom Ness, or between S.S.E. ^ E. 
and S.W. by W. | W. bearings ; it also lights a small arc towards Cava 
in Scapa Flow, or between the bearings N. | W. and N.N.W. | W. The 

L 2 



164 OEKNETS. — ^HOY SOUND. [ohap.x, 

low light is bright hnd Jixed^ and shows between the bearings E. ^ S. and 
W. ^ N. round northerly. The lights in one lead between the Kirk 
rocks and the Bow of Hoj, but when a vessel has approached with them 
on this line so as to be within ^ a mile of the shore, the high light becomes 
hid bj the intervening land, and she must then haul over towards the 
Strom Ness shore, when the red light will reappear. 

Mmmm of Ozaa, the first of the dangers to be described in connexion 
with Gremsa, is a patch of foul ground off the point of Oxan, with 17 to 
20 feet upon it at 3 cables from the shore. The bottom upon the north* 
west side of Gremsa is also rocky and uneven^ and at one spot named the 
Showbelly, nearly in mid«channel between Oxsn point and Strom Ness, 
there is as little as 20 feet, and several vessels have struck upon it. A 
short distance to the southward of Showbelly, is another patch with 15 feet 
upon it ; they are the shoaler portions of a rocky spit extending from 
Gremsa diagonally across the channel. 

The skerry of Clett is a rocky patch, which shows at half tide, lying 
2 cables out from the north side of Gremsa ; the boat channel between has 
7 to 9 feet in it. 

BbbiBff Bdd7<— ^The bay of Sandside, which begins j^ of a mile within the 
skerry of Clett, is generally foul and shallow; rocks named the Baas 
extend from the western point for 1^ cables, and appear in detached 
portions at low water; 2^ cables to the north-eastward of them, with 
Stronmess kirk just over the high-water mark of the point of Ness, is a 
rock, visible at low springs, named the Ebbing Eddy, which, having to 
be rounded on the passage through Hoy sound, has brought many 
vessels up. 

A black buoy lies outside the Ebbing Eddy in 4^ fathoms, with the high 
lighthouse bearing S. by E., and the low lighthouse W. by N. 

Long fiat reefs dry out 2 cables from the point of Sandside upon the 
'^eastern side of the bay, but the shore is then dear for ^ a mile to the 
fiouthward of the lighthouse. 

Band Bels are detached shoals lying in the channel to the eastward of 
Gremsa ; the lesser Sand Eel is a small ridge with 5 feet upon it, 2 cables 
to the eastward of the Ebbing Eddy ; the greater Sand Eel is ^ a mile to 
the north-east of the high lighthouse ; it has 18 feet upon it, is narrow 
and steep, audits position is genei'ally indicated by the tide ripple, or by 
the lighter [colour of the water over it. The 'thwart marks at it are 
Stromness kirk in line with the old mill on Cairston holm, N. by W. | W., 
and the ruined kirk touching the intervening land N-W. 

Biddook Bboai is a stony bank having 22 feet upon it, and with 
another patch of 16 feet near it lying out ^ of a mile from the east side of 



CHAP.x.] DIRECTIONS FOR HOY SOUND. 165 

Gremsa> with Stromness kirk over the high-water boundary of the west 
side of the south holm of Cairston N. hy W, ; the ruined kirk touching 
high- water mark of Sandside point N.W. by N., and three cottages in 
Gremsa nearly in line. 

A blizck buoy is moored about half a cable to tjie S.S.E. of the 
shallowest part of the Biddock shoal in 3 fathoms low-water springs, with 
the west end of Cairston holm on with Stromness kirk N. by W. J W., 
Old kirk in ruins a little open of Sandside point N.W. by N., and the 
most southerly house in Gremsa in line with the Wart of Hoy W. | S. 

Sower Skerry. — The south-east side of Gremsa is very foul, and 
should not be approached within ^ a mile, for 16 feet may be found at that 
distance. Two ledges dry out from the shore, the northern of which is 
named Scarf skerry ; the Sower skerry is a detached rock with only 4 feet 
upon it, lying 4 cables from the shore, and the water is shoal for 2 cables 
beyond it. 

BnuiCTZOsrs fbr BOT soiiWD. — ^Runningr. — ^In clear weather there 
IS no difficulty in recognising Hoy mouth. Hoy hill, upon the south-west - 
side of it, is visible at such times for 40 miles, and on a nearer approach 
the Old Man of Hoy is too marked a feature to admit of any imcertainty ; 
but in thick weather some caution is necessary, for vessels have been 
known to run ashore in Skail bay upon the west shore of Mainland, in 
consequence of having mistaken Row head for Hoy head, though the 
cliffs of the former are only 180 feet high, while the latter are 
1,000 feet. 

Having entered Hoy sound, keep in mid-channel, or run in with Gremsa 
lighthouses in line S.E. f E. ; on this bearing they lead between Braga 
skerry and the Kirk rocks to the north-eastward, and the Bow to the 
south-westward, and when nearly up to Gremsa, or when the manse opens 




Old kirk in sight. 

to the eastward of the old kirk, haul over towards the Strom Ness shore 
to avoid the Baas of Oxan, and the Showbelly lying in mid-channel, taking 
care on closing the ness to keep the ruined kirk in sight, so as to avoid the 
skerry of Ness, which will have been passed when Stromness kirk appears 
open of 1)he ness, and then the ruined kirk must be shut in to avoid the 
Ebbing Eddy and the Sand Eels. Continue on this last course until 
Stromness kirk appears between the holms of Cairston N.N.W. J W. 
(northerly), the leading mark through the portion of the sound between 



166 0BENET8. — HOT SOUND. [chap. x. 

ClestroD skerries and Gremsa, and when drawing towards Houton bead, 
keep the tail of the holm of Houton in sight, to avoid Peter skerry. From 
the holm of Honton to Holm sonnd is S-E. b; £., 8| miles ; the Barrel 
of Batter, S.K | S., 2\ miles, and the Calf of Hoto, S.S.E. \ E., 
4j miles. 

At BWit. — With a vessel not drawing more than 16 feet, should the 
vrind be strong and the tide flowing, proceed in uuder easy sail with the 
Ughts in one S.E. j E. ; keep them bo nntil the high light {red) becomes 
hid by the interveniog land ; the E!irk rocks having then been passed, 
hanl to the northward and sight the red light again open to the north- 
ward of the bright one. Endeavour to keep as near to mid-channel as 
practicable while passing the latter, and when within it, bring it to bear 
W. by S., and be careful not to haul too &f to the northward, on account 
of the skerry of Ness, from which the bright light bears W.S.W, § S., nor 
so far to the southward towards Gremsa as to shut in the bright light. 

The colour of the high light changes from red to white on a S.S.E. \ £. 
bearing, and when it is S. } E., the sk«Try of Ness, which is the principal 
danger, has been passed, and the low light must be brought to bear 
W. by S. ^ S. ; this will lead to the anchorage, where a berth may be 
taken up in 7 iathoms. 

^r*rkliiK. — If intending to work through Hoy sound, it will be prudent 
for a stranger to take a pilot. Many accidents have occurred from vessels 
not carrying sufficient sail, and missing stays in consequence. Aa a 
general rule, the sides of the sound should not be approached closely. 

In the accompanying view, Clestron house ia that to the left, and Cles- 
tron store-house is at the extreme right, and near the water's edge. 

Clestron store-house kept open of the shore near Strom Ness clears 
Braga skerry, and it is advisable not to stand into the bight between the 
latter and the Kirk rocks, as it is shidlow and rocky. 



CleotroD bouse. Ckstron etorehonse. 

Clestron house well open of the shore next Strom Ness clears the Kirk 
rocks. 

Clestron house kept open of Gremsa clears the Bow of Hoy, and the 
foul ground about it. 



I 

I 

■ 

I 
I 



CHAp.x.] DIRECTIONS FOR HOT SOUND. 167 

Near the point of Ox^n, which is fool, go aboat before the lighthouses 
appear in line, or tack before the point of Sandside is shut in. A vessel 
drawing 16 feet may cross Showbelly in safety, and stand to within a 
cable of the Strom Ness shore. 

The Kame of Hoy kept open of the point of Oxan clears the skerry of 
Clett, and the mined kirk kept in sight (see view, page 165) leads outside 
the skerry of Ness. The latter danger will have been passed on Stromness 
kirk appearing open of the point of Ness ; when, should the vessel be 
bound to Stromness, she must keep to the eastward of the buoy near the 
entrance, and sail up in mid-channel to a berth. If intending to anchor in 
Cairston road, the extremity of Hoy must be kept a little open of the point 
of Ness, W. ^ S., and it will lead dear of Mallow bank and to the anchorage* 
For the best position, see page 161. 

To proceed through the remainder of the sound towards Scapa Flow, 
and standing to the southward towards the Ebbing Eddy, tack directly tbe 
ruined kirk appears in sight in order to clear that rock, and also the lesser 
Sand Eel by 2 cables ; and in standing towards Mallow bank, keep 
Farafield house open to the south-west of the old mill on the holm of 
Cairston. 

A vessel not drawing more than 12 feet need pay no attention to the 
Greater Sand Eel and Biddock shoal, but one of heavier draft must keep 
Stronmess kirk open to the eastward of the old mill to clear the foniler, 
and tack with the same objects on to clear the latter. 

Houton head kept open of the intervening land clears Clestron skerries, 
and they will have been passed when the mill of Clestron appears under 
the barrow on the southernmost summit of the Ward of Orfer E. J S. 
The shore is then clear to Peter skerry, which is marked by a red buoy, 
and should be passed on the outside ; but any part of the holm of Houton 
kept open of the head will clear the rock should the buoy be out of place. 

The south-east end of Gremsa has been already described as very foul ; 
it is therefore necessary when near it to go about before Stromness kirk 
becomes shut in upon Gremsa^ and to attend to this mark until the white 
house behind Clestron shows on with the mill of Clestron ; the Sower and 
Scarf skerries will then have been passed, and the vessel may stand across 
to Hoy, if necessary, as the sound is free of danger. 

CAVTZOW. — ^After westerly gales there is a bad roost in Hoy mouth 
with the ebb tide, and it is then dangerous to attempt to pass out of it, 
especially if the wind be light. 

Burwick sound is also a dangerous place, for the tide stream sets rapidly 
through it and over Hoy skerries, but in an emergency a vessel may sail 
through it with a fresh fair wind by keeping within J a cable of the shore 
of Gremsa. 



168 OBKNEYS. — ^HOLM SOUND. [chap. 



IS«— The flood stream, running through Hoy sound, begins on the 
north side at the Millstone quarrj, 4 miles ^m Hoy mouth, and on the 
south side from Hoy head. The in-draft is scarcely felt 5 miles outside 
the entrance. 

In Hoy sound the rate of the stream is 4 knots, until it divides upon 
Gremsa, when the rate increases to 6 knots, one stream passing through 
Burwick sound, the other between Gremsa and Strom Ness. The stream 
goes over the skerry of Ness, and from thence sets fair for the skerries of 
Clestron, where it divides, one stream turning inwards and filling Irland 
bay, and at half-flood setting as a back tide out of Cairston road, the other 
setting rather off shore at first and then towards Houton head. From 
Burwick sound the stream sets along the shore of Hoy to Green head, 
the rate being scarcely 3 knots, and Gremsa creates still water over a 
large space in the middle of the sound. It is high water, full and change, 
at Stromness, at 9h. 



SOTOB, bordered by Holm parish at the south-east extremity of 
Mainland to the north-east, and by the island of Burra to the south-west, 
is divided into three channels by Lamb and Glims holms ; the northernmost 
of these passages, called Kirk sound, i@ the safest and best. 

MAXW&Am, souTB-BJkST SZ9B. — ^Rosc Ncss, the . north-east point 
of the entrance to Holm sound, is low and devoid of any remarkable 
feature; some object by which it might be identified should therefore 
be erected upon it ; at present there is only a pile of stones on a barrow 
upon the east side of the ness. To the westward, the land falls into a 
shallow bay towards the manse ; here, though the bottom is rocky, 
vessels may stop a tide in 4 or 5 fathoms by anchoring just within the 
stream of the ness. 

Cubsey is a small rock, dry at low- water springs, lying directly abreast 
the manse, and about 2 cables from the shore. A red buoy is placed 
outside it in 3^ fathoms, with the east end of Northfield farmhouse 
W. i N., Glims holm skerry beacon W.N.W. J N., the secession kirk in 
Holm in line with the east end of Vigo fermhouse N. | E., west end of 
Holm manse E. | N., and Rose Ness S.S.E. 

Between the manse and the kirk the shore is flat and shallow, and from 
the latter to Skeldoquoy, though the coast is clear, it must not be made 
too free with. Off Graems hall, coasters occasionally anchor in from 2 to 
3 fathoms, over sand and rock ; and off the hamlet of St. Mary, upon the 
east side of the point of Skeldoquoy, there is tolerable summer anchorage 
for small craft, as they can lie out of the stream of tide in from 2 to 4 
fathoms, over sandy patches, but the ground is loose, except very close 
in-shore. 



CHAp.x.] TIDES. — MAINLAND 8.B. SIDE. 169 

The point of Skeldoqnoy is flat upon all sidee, and dries out for 1^ 
cables ; but Howquoj head, the turning point into Scapa Flow, is bold. 

Between Skeldoquoj and Lamb holm is the shoalest portion of the 
sound ; in mid-channel there is a depth of 3^ fathoms, and 4| fathoms 
near Lamb holm. 

lamb Ko]m.-^The west and north sides of Lamb holm (pronounced 
Lamon) are bold, and the beach at the north-west point is steep-to. A 
small rocky shoal, called the Knoll, having 10 feet upon it, and 3 fiskthoms 
within it, lies out nearly 2 cables from the eastern end of the island ; at it 
Grsems hall bears N. by W. ^ W., Holm kirk N.E. by E. (easterly), Rose 
Ness S.S.E. I E., and Northfield S.W. J W. 

The south and south-east sides of the holm are clear, and there are 
6 and 7 fathoms close to the rocks at the south-west point. 

The narrow passage between Lamb and Glims holms is named Skerry 
sound ; there are 6 fathoms in it, but the rapidity of the tide-stream through 
it, and the sunken rocks about it, render it dangerous. 

Ollms Boim. — ^The north side of this holm is clear but rather flat; the 

east end is very foul for ^ a mile, and reefs dry out at low water for more 

than ^ a cable, beyond which is the skerry of Glims holm, 

separated from the islet by a boat passage. On a portion 

of this rock, which is uncovered at low water, stands a 

beacon, consisting of a pyramid of iron pillars, supporting 

a cylindrical open cage ; the whole being 40 feet in height, 

and painted red. 

GlimBholm skerry 
beacon. 

The outer point of the skerry is about 1 J cables beyond the beacon. 

Sinclair Skerry, 2 cables E.S.E. from Glims holm skerry, is 2 cables in 
extent in an east and west direction, with from 4 to 7 feet over it. For 1^ 
cables to the eastward of this skerry, and in the narrow channel separating 
it from Glims holm skerry, there is a depth only of from 2 to 3 fathoms. 
From Sinclair skerry. Holm southernmost kirk bears E. J N., Rose Ness 
cairn S.E. by E. (southerly), and Northfield house S.W. | S. As this 
danger is greatly in the way of vessels passing through Skerry sound, or 
working into or out of Kirk sound, it should be marked by a buoy. 

BmuuL, — ^xro&TB-BAST and iTOiiTB-iirssT szBfis.— Burra Ness, 
the east point of this island, and the south-west point of the entrance into 
Holm sound, is low, and fronted by reefs extending for a cable. In the 
bay to the northward of the ness there is good anchorage with off-shore 
winds, the best position being in the southern portion of it, J of a mile 
from the shore ; the bottom is rocky, with patches of sand over it, and the 
general depth is from 6 to 7 fathoms. 




170 OBBa^EYS. — ^HOLM SOUND. [chap. x. 

The north-east point of Burra, near Northfield, must have a good 
berth, and all the northern shore of the island is foul, but it is out of the 
track of shipping. The narrow sound between Burra and Glims holm is 
fouly the weeds appearing at low-water springs nearly all the way across. 
A channel of 2 to 3 fathoms may, however, be found by keeping nearer 
to Glims holm than to Burra. 

From the point of Warebanks, opposite Glims holm, the coast of 
Burra westward is clear to the Hope of Hunda. Southward of Ware- 
banks is the broad bay Echnalock, in which there is good anchorage with 
the wind off-shore in 10 to 7 fathoms. 

Sope of Baada, or Bimda Bound, is the small bay formed by the 
north-west side of Burra, the north-east end of Hunda^ and the narrow 
stony isthmus connecting the two islands. The Hope is an excellent 
harbour for small craft in all winds ; it is rather more than -^ a mile deep 
and 3 cables across ; the depths are from 4 to 6 &thoms, and the shores 
are clear and not very flat. The best anchorage is about half-way up, in 
4 &thoms, sand. 

Hunda is about a mile in lengthy and the whole of its west side is 
very bold. 

niSBCTZoars for boIiM sovbb. — cavtzob. — ^It has been re- 
marked on page 92 that vessels have, in thick weather, often mistaken the 
bay of Sandisend for Holm sound ; but Rose Ness, at the entrance of the 
latter, may readily be distinguished from the points of the misleading bay, 
as well as from Burra Ness and Grim Ness, for off it the Horse of Copinsha 
shows over the tail of Ward holm (see view, page 92). Also a house 
(Cara store) appears to be standing in the middle of the passage through 
Water sound, whereas from its winding character, no passage can be 
seen through Holm sound. The beacon also on Glims holm skerry will, 
in moderately clear weather, serve to distinguish the latter sound. 

Holm sound is only fit for square-rigged vessels to turn through under 
favourable circumstances. With strong southerly winds and a flood tide 
the passage is decidedly unsafe, for the sea then breaks nearly across the 
entrance, and even with strong winds from the westward, and an ebb tide, 
so much sea is raised as often to cause a fore-and-aft vessel to miss stays; 
but in fine weather a square-rigged vessel may either turn or back and fill 
through the narrows with safety. 

Bunninff. — ^To sail through Kirk sound, the northernmost of the 
channels of Holm sound, (in which, owing to its semicircular form, the 
course varies 8 points,) after Rose Ness, which is bold, has been passed, 
steer for the north-east point of Lamb holm or for Grsems hall, until the 
kirk upon the shore has been passed, keeping outside or to the south-west 



CHAP.x.] DIBBCTIOKS FOB HOLM SOUND. — TIDE. I7l 

of the Cubsey buoy. Then steer more northerly to avoid the Knoll, and 
when Skeldoquoy point appears open of Lamb holm, gradually alter the 
course westerly and south-westerly, and continue through the remainder 
of the sound in mid-channel, giving a wide berth to Skeldoquoy point. 
The tide stream in Holm sound is so rapid that, with a fair wind, a vessel 
will be quickly through, but it should not be attempted with a scant wind 
and adverse tide, for she would then be exposed to the danger of falling 
to leeward upon the flat shore of Holm. 

Workingr. — In turning through Holm sound, as the tail of Sinclair 
skerry is on the line of the north-east points of Burra and Lamb holm, 
keep considerably without the stream of the points. Graems hall, on with 
the north-east point of Lamb holm, leads 3 cables to the eastward of the 
skerry. The south side of the Knoll will be cleared by keeping any part 
of Glims holm open of Lamb holm, and on the north side by keeping 
Skeldoquoy point open to the northward of Lamb holm. As the 
navigable channel of Kirk sound is at one part only 2 cables across, it is 
scarcely wide enough for square-rigged vessels to beat through. 

Should a vessel be off the western entrance to Holm sound in a calm, 
and the flood-stream running, she will, by towing to the northward of 
mid-channel, drift through Kirk sound and clear of the Knoll, as it lies 
within the edge of the eddy; but should the vessel be drifted towards 
Skerry sound, she must then keep as near as practicable to Lamb holm, to 
avoid -being set upon Sinclair skerry. 

The bays on either side of Burra are well adapted for anchorage, when 
having to wait for a fair wind through Holm sound. 

The passage through Skerry sound is very narrow, with Sinclair skerry 
in the middle of the approach, and it should only be used under the most 
favourable circumstances. From Rose Ness steer for the middle of Lamb 
holm until close to that islet j then run along it? southern side within | of 
a cable of the shore, and haul close round its south-western point. 

This channel may be easily sailed through when approaching from the 
westward with a fair wind and tide ; under such circumstances, steer for 
and haul close round the south-west point of Lamb holm ; then steer for 
Holm kirk until outside the ' line of the north-east points of Lamb holm 
and Burra, or until Graems hall shows open of Lamb holm, when Sinclair 
skerry will have been passed, and the remainder of the passage is clear of 
danger. 



t. — Off Holm sound the stream of flood drains along shore toHalcro 
head, where it meets the stream from Pentland flrth. Through Holm 
sound the rate of the flood-stream is 6 knots where strongest, and it turns 
at one hour after high water on the shore. 



172 OBEyEYS. — ^WATEB SOTJOT). — SCAPA FLOW. [chap. x. 



U between the Bouth side of Barra and the north side of 
South Ronaldsha, is about 3^ miles long and nearly ^ a mile wide. The 
navigable channel is too shallow and narrow to be available for general 
nse; it is, however, well adapted for coasters and small craft, who pass 
into the small but very secure harbour St. Margarets Hope, upon the 
southern side of the sound. 

lUtwWA* — ^The north-east side of the eastern entrance to Water sound is 
somewhat flat, and at the mouth there is as little as 12 feet for more than 
half-way across. Farther in is a rock named the Lippa, nearly dry nt 
low-water springs, lying nearly in the middle of the sound, with the high- 
water mark of Burra a little open of the high-water mark of Cara point. 
There are 3 and 4 fathoms water close to the south side of the rock, and 
foul ground with 6 to 9 feet over it, connects it with the northern shore. 
Westward of the Lippa, the shore of Bnrra to abreast Cara point is foul, 
and there are about 12 feet for one-third the distance across the sound. 

Upon the southern side of the sound rocks dry off from the shore for a 
cable to the point of Cara, which is a shingle beach with a prominent 
storehouse upon it. The point is foul to the eastward, but steep on its 
north side, while under it to the westward is good summer anchorage in 
3^ fathoms, sand ; usually occupied by a fleet of schooners and sloops 
during the fishing season. 

Three-quarters of a mile to the westward of Cara point, a rocky flat, 
named the Taing of Knockhall, projects from the shore for 2 cables, and 
continues round the east point of St. Margarets Hope to abreast Knockhall. 
Nearly opposite^ but a little outside the line of Needle point, the western 
boundary of the entrance to the Hope, are some detached rocks, named the 
Skua-flaas, which dry at low water. 

The remainder of the coast of South Ronaldsha, as far as Hoxa head, is 
clear, and in the bay of Hoxa there is fair anchorage in 7 fathoms, sand, 
about i a mile from the shore. 

In the middle of the western entrance to Water sound, and nearly in • 
the line of the Needle head and the western point of Hunda, is a sand- 
bank with 10 feet over it at low water ; it is very steep upon the south 
side, and clearly marked by the colour of the water. Small vessels often 
use this bank for temporary anchorage. 

• BZRSCTZOirfl. — ^Vessels waiting the change of tide can anchor upon the 
north side of Grim Ness in 7 fathoms, sand ; this is a good temporary 
anchorage with off-shore winds, and should the wind shift suddenly. 
Water sound may be run through. 

The leading mark through the eastern entrance to Water sound, to* 
within 44 cables of Cara point, is the high-water mark of Burra touching 
the high-water mark of Cara point, N.W. | W. 5 this leads clear of the 



cHAP.x.] ST. Margaret's hope. — houton cove. 173 

Xiippa ; then proceed in mid-channel, and avoid the Taing of Knockhall 
by keeping Crowtaing point open of Needle head, and when abreast of 
Hunda, the sound will have been cleared. 

TXBB. — ^The rate of the flood-stream through Water sound is 4 knots 
per hour. 

ST. MASOASBTS BOPB. — ^In this Small but secure natural basin, there 
is good anchorage in 3 to 4 fathoms, rather towards the westen;i shore. 
The head of the hope, which is skirted by a village, is rather flat. A spit 
of stones, extending from the west point of the entrance, protects the hope 
in winds from the northward ; this spit dries at \ ebb, its north side is 
flat, but there are 16 feet at low water close to the outer end, which is 
named Needle point, and is marked by a pole beacon. 

The entrance between Needle point and the Skua-flaas is extremely 
narrow ; the mark for leading throagh it is the Secession manse, over a 
small house upon the shore, near the East burn, S.S.E. ^ E. 



is a small inland sea^ enclosed by Mainland to the north- 
east and north, Hoy westward, Flota and South Bonaldsha to the south, 
and by Burra upon the south-east side. It has an area of 50 square miles; 
the average depth does not exceed 20 fathoms, over a muddy bottom, and 
round its margin are many good harbours and roadsteads for small vessels ; 
there being also but little tide-stream over it, and no sea except that caused 
by the fetch from side to side, it would seem to be remarkably well adapted 
for a rendezvous for a fleet. Any number of line-of-battle ships might be 
anchored upon the north side of Flota in from 16 to 18 fathoms, mud, where 
they would be secure in all winds, and with a sea outlet always at com- 
mand. There is also good anchorage for large vessels in the western 
entrance to Water sound in 10 to 12 fathoms, sand, where was formerly 
the rendezvous for Greenland whalers. Frigates might anchor upon the 
north side of Burra, in Pan Hope, in Long Hope, and in the sound between 
Flota and Hoy, while smaller vessels would have land-locked harbours in 
Bisa sound, the Hope of Hunda, and in Houton cove. 

Water. — ^A large supply of water may be obtained at all times of the 
year from the burns of Hoy and Orfer. 

There are comparatively few dangers in Scapa Flow, and the navigation 
is consequently extremely simple. The whole of the northern shore is low 
and indented by small bays, but there are no dangers beyond the stream of 
the points. The following is a brief description of the more prominent 
features. 

BOUTOir COVB is formed under the protection of the small flat holm of 
Houton, upon the south-east side of, and connected with Houton head by 



174 OEKNBYS.-HSICAPA PLOW, &C. [chap, x, 

m 

a reef which dries at low water. It is abnost circular, and though devoid 
of wood, is picturesque ; it is protected from all winds, and is well adapted 
for the use of small fore-and-aft vessels ; the breadth across is about 
3 cables, and there is a depth of 18 feet in the centre, over a bottom of 
clean sand« 

The entrance to the eastward of the holm is about l^ cables across, and 
there is never a less depth than 12 feet in the channel, which is confined 
to close along the holm by the shoal point upon the north-east side of the 
entrance. A small beacon of piled stones on Houton head kept over the 
hut upon the holm N.W. f W., leads obliquely to the deepest water in 
the entrance. 

In Kirk bay, a mile to the eastward of Houton cove, vessels may anchor 
in off-shore winds in 12 fathoms, mud. 



r, or Swanbuster bay, is formed between Toy Ness and 
Ye Ness ; from the former. Toy Ness reef projects out for 2^ cables in a 
direction parallel to the coast ; this is cleared passing to the southward by 
keeping the holm of Houton in sight, and to the eastward by keeping a 
road leading down from Gyre house to the shore, end on. Smoogra 
skerry, drying at low-water springs, is upon the north-east side of the 
bay, abreast Gyre house, and is connected with a shoal which occupies 
the whole of the eastern portion of the bay ; both dangers will be cleared 
on their south side by keeping the house of Gatneap open of Ve Ness. 
Ve Ness also is fronted by a reef projecting for a cable, but any part of 
the holm of Houton kept in sight leads outside it. 

Smoogra bay affords good summer anchorage under Toy Ness reef, the 
best position being with Swanbuster on with a hillock upon the shore, 
N.N.W. I W., in 6 fathoms, good holding ground. 

The small, narrow bay of Walkmill upon the east side of Ve Ness, dries 
for nearly half its extent, and offers no shelter for anchorage. 



r, the southern port of Kirkwall, frx)m which it is distant a 
mile, is 3 miles from Ve Ness, and the intermediate coast is clear and bold, 
with depths of from 10 to 12 fathoms close to the rocks. Scapa bay is a 
mile deep, and nearly | of a mile wide ; but Scapa skerry, or the reef of 
Dike-ends, showing at low-water springs, lies nearly in the middle of it. 
The passage to the westward of the skerry has 12 feet water in the deepest 
part, but it is only fit for small vessels. The skerry is bold-to upon the 
south and east sides, and the channel between it and the shore at Gatneap 
is i a mile wide, with 7 fathoms in it ; within, the depths decrease gradually 
towards the head of the bay, which is skirted at low water by a dry sand, 
I of a cable broad. The whole of the eastern portion of the bay is clear, 
but upon the western side within the skerry, it is shoal. 





CHAP. X.] SKOOGSA BAY. — SCAPA. — EISA SOTJOT). 176 

To proceed into Scapa bay from the westward, keep Toy Ness open of the 
western shore of the bay until Earkwall cathedral appears open its own 

length to the eastward of Nether 

Scapa, N.£. ^ N. (easterly), 

which kept so, will lead clear of 

Scapa skerry and to the anchor- 

Kirkwall cathedral open of Nether Scapa, age, where there are 5 or 6 

' ** ^ ry;. fathoms, good holding ground; 

small vessels having passed the skerry, may round it to the westward, and 

obtain the shelter of the skerry. 

From Scapa bay, the coast trends to the southward, and is bold and free 
from danger to Howquoy head. 

B/immiB6 of BITTTBS, or Carlin skerry^ is a small rock nearly in the 
middle of the western end of Scapa Flow, it is almost covered at high-water 

springs, but at low water it dries for 1^ cables in a 

north-west and south-east direction. A plain stone 

beacon, surmounted by an iron cage, has been erected 

upon it. This rock must not be approached too closely ^ 

particularly towards high water, and as it is difficult 

to distinguish the beacon at night, it is usual to keep either towards the 

shore of Mainland or Cava. From the beacon, Houton head bears 

N.W. I N., 2^ miles ; north end of Cava W.N.W. ^ W., 1^ miles ; Calf 

of Flota S. by £. i £., 2| miles ; and Howquoy head KS.E., 6 miles. 

CAVA is a small island of a triangular shape, a mile long and nearly 
^ a mile broad at the base or south end, lying a mile to the eastward of 
Green head in Hoy, and the same distance to the northward of Fara ; its 
northern end, which is nearly detached, is named the Calf of Hoy. Except 
at the south-west point, where a sandy spit with 16 feet upon it runs out 
for more than 2 cables, the island may be closed to half that distance at 
every part. 

BZ8A« sometimes called Little Bisa, is a small islet near the shore of Hoy, 
^ a mile to the south-eastward of Green head ; its east and west sides are 
bold, but a sandy spit stretches from its south-west side one-third the 
distance across the channel between it and Hoy. 

Upon the shore of Hoy abreast Lyrwa bay between Green and Pegal 
heads, is a good anchorage with excellent holding ground, though it is 
somewhat exposed. As the depths decrease suddenly towards the head of 
the bay, the best berth is just within the line of the points in 12 fathoms, 
mud. 



8onn>. — The space between the islet of Risa and the shore of 
Hoy abreast is an excellent harbour, sheltered from all winds, and capable 



176 OEKNEYS. — SCAPA PLOW, &0. [chap. x. 

of accommodating vessels of 400 and 500 tons burden. On the south side 
of Pegal head is a small bay, the whole of which, as far out as the stream 
of Pegal heady is occupied bj a sand-bank, the water upon which deepens 
suddenly from 9 feet to 7 and 8 fathoms. Pegal bum, to the southward of 
the head, is a good watering-place. Off Bisa house in H07, the southern 
part of the sound, a shallow spit, having 8 and 10 feet upon it, extends 
towards Little Eisa, and overlaps the spit from that islet ; the 2-fathoms 
channel between them is very narrow, intricate, and only fit for small 
vessels. The best anchorage in Bisa sound is in mid-channel, a little to 
the southward of Pegal head, in 8 fathoms, mud. 

Ontter Sonnd, the channel between Bisa and Fara, is -^ a mile wide, 
and clear of danger ; there is a depth of 10 fathoms in mid-channel, and 
the tide-streams through it are not strong. 



oh its west and north sides is clear, but abreast the middle of the 
east side of the island a flat stretches off for 3 cables, with 2 and 3 fathoms 
upon it. Small vessels may use it as a temporary anchoring place, but 
large vessels will avoid it by keeping any part of the north-east coast of 
Hoy open of the north end of Fara. 

"Weddei Sound* separating the islands Fara and Flota, is 2 cables broad, 
and where narrowest has from 4 to 5 fathoms depth, but a sand-bank with 
15 to 18 feet upon it fills up the western entrance. The best water is 
on the north side of the channel, as the shore of Flota is flat, but the 
deepest water in the western entrance is upon the south side, the south- 
east side of Fara being shoaL There is good summer anchorage in any 
part of this sound in from 3 to 8 fathoms, and the tide-stream through it 
is moderate. 

z&OTA is in'egular in form, and larger than the island last described. 
The north side is clean and bold to Bone head, abreast which is the Calf 
of Flota, a very small islet, steep-to on its east side. The east side of 
Flota, from Quoy Ness to Stangar head, must not be made free with, but 
the. latter point is steep-to. 

Pan Bope, a large bay on the east side of Flota between Bone head and 
Quoy Ness, is a mile deep and nearly ^ a mile wide, but the upper half is 
occupied by a flat sand, having 7 to 10 feet ov^r it. Pan Hope is open 
to easterly winds, but it is a good summer anchorage. As the water 
shoals immediately within the entrance, it is necessary to anchor before 
Hoxa head appears on with Quoy Ness, and rather nearer to the southern 
than to the northern shore, in 4 or 5 fathoms, sand. Small vessels may go 
farther in and anchor off the post oflSce in 2 and 3 £athoms. The shores on 
both sides are clear but flat. 



CHAP. X.3 PLOTA. — HOXA SOUND. — ^DIRECTIONS. 177 

All the anchorages around Scapa Flow have been described, and no 
other remarks are necessary, for the navigation over the bodj of the 
Flow is simple, and the various courses and distances will be obtained 
from the chart. 

vn^m, — ^In Scapa Flow the streams of flood become diffused, but their 
general direction is towards Holm and Hoxa sounds. At the Barrel of 
Butter the rate of springs scarcely exceeds 2. knots. Near the points, the 
rate of the streams is slightly accelerated ; something may, therefore, 
be gained by standing towards them, should the tide be favourable. 




SOXA sons, having Flota to the west, and South Ronaldsha and 
Hunda to the eastward, is a broad and deep channel, which may be used 
by the largest veesels. Both Hoxa head and Hunda are bold and clear ; 
the breadth of the channel between Stangar and Hoxa heads is nearly 
1^ miles, and between Bone head and Hunda 2^ miles, and the general 
depth is from 20 to 30 fathoms, but the sound is obstructed by the follow- 
ing dangers : — 

ireva Skerry, or Navir holm, is a small rock 
awash at high-water springs, lying E.S.E. ^ S. 
§ of a mile from Bone head ; there is a depth 
of 10 fathoms within ^ a cable of its west 
and south sides, but the north side is rather ^®^* ^^"7 ^®*^°°- 
foul, and must not be approached so closely. The skerry is marked by a 
cone of plate iron, 32 feet high, terminating in a pointed cornice, and 
painted black. 

Tbe arinds, the other danger, consists of some patches of rock lying 
in a north-east and south-west direction upon a sand-bank E. by N. :^ N., 
f of a mile from Neva skerry beacon ; the least depth over them is 6 feet, 
but at low water the weeds are visible. The bank is nearly ^ a mile long, 
and is steep on its north and south sides. A chequered black and white 
buoy lies in 5 fathoms just to the north-east of the Grrinds, with Warebanks 
cottages in Burra in line with the high-water mark of the north side of 
Hunda, E. | S. ; west end of Laughton's house in line with ^the east end 
of Park cottage, S.E. J E. ; Hoxa head S.W. f W. ; Neva skerry beacon 
W. J S., and south edge of the cliffs at Bone head W. ^ N. 

BZBBCTZOW8. — The usual passage through Hoxa sound is to the west- 
ward of Neva skerry, and it was usual formerly, to keep Barth head open 
of Hoxa head to avoid the rock, but now the beacon upon the latter 
sufficiently marks it. 

Swona, shut in by Hoxa head, clears the Grinds passing to the east- 
ward ; the same island, quite open of the head, clears them passing to the 
westward ; Glims holm touching Hunda leads to the southward, and Cara 
37383. M 



178 ORKNEYS. — SCAPA FLOW, &C. [chap. x. 

storehouse shut in by the south-west end of Hunda, to the north-eastward 
of them. 



(. — The flood-stream sets transversely across Hoxa sound from 
Stangar head to Hoxa head and Hunda, at which time there is almost still 
water, or a very weak southerly stream, on the east side of Flota. 

The ebb-stream sets to the southward through Hoxa sound, but not so 
strongly as to prevent a vessel working against it with a moderate breeze. 
Turning through the sound with the flood, the strongest stream will be 
secured by passing to the southward and east^^ard of the Grinds. 



179 



CHAPTER XI 

ORKNEYS.— SOUTHERN COAST." 



Taautiok in 1876. 
TornNesa - - - S3° S5' W. | Brongli Hm8 - - 32° ^/W. 

TUXM MMBB, the aoDth-east point of Hoy, is low and flat, with some 
low-water rocks extending from it for ^ a cable ; while ^ of a mile off 
ttere are 14 fathoms. 



Old Man of Ud;. Beiry Head, N. b; E. } E., S^ miles. 

From this, as a turning point, the west coast of Hoy extends to the 
northward, and is composed of cliffs, attaining in that of Berry head, 
which is of a deep red colour, an elevation of 555 feet. Six miles farther 
to the northward is a fine detached pinnacled rock, named the Old Man 
of Hoy, higher than the cliffs abreast, and showing over the land from the 
southward. 

Proceeding eastward from Turn Ness, a small bay occurs between it and 
Brims Ness, which is low and rugged, with some rocks lying out from it 
for J a cable : this poiat should not be made too free with, as the tide- 
stream runs past it very rapidly, often causing a high sea. The head of 
the bay is distinguished by a sandy patch, and near It is the old house 
of Melsetter with its excellent gardens. 

Altii Bop* is between the eastern aide of Brims Ness and the soulh-west 
aide of South Walls,' and in this deep narrow bay, or inlet, vessels anchor 
in northerly winds in 5 or 6 fathcans ; but as it is open to the south-east, 

* A deEcription of the Fentland firth and its tidal Btreams it given in the North Sea 
Pilot, Part n.. Chapter IL, North Coast of Scotland, and accordingly the louthero coast 
of the Orkneys from Turn Ness to Old head, forming the northern bonndar; of the 
flrth, will only be noticed here. 

See Admiraltj charts : — Orkney ielands, No. 2,180 i scale, ni = D'5 inches ; Scotland, 
east coast, Sheet V., No. 2,181 ; scale, i^ = tSliachee; and Long Hope and Widewall 
harbours. No. S,5B1 ; scale, n = 3 inches. 

u 2 



180 OEKKEYS. — SOUTHBEN COAST. [ohap.xi. 

it can scarcely be considered secure. The head of the bay is formed by 
a low narrow gravelly ridge, connecting South Walls with Hoy, flowed 
over at high spring tides. 

CAJmcx BBAB. 3 miles firom Brims Ness, is the eastern extremity of 
the south shore of South Walls, and is composed of cliffs of a moderate 
height. The head is rather low and round, ending in an abrupt cliff to 
the southward. It is bold-to on the south side, but low-water rocks 
extend from it in an easterly direction for a cable. To avoid them, 
keep the Mortella tower on Crock Ness open of Hack Ness N. by W. J W., 
and when Stangar head is just open to the northward of Switha 
E. by N. ^ N., the outer part is immediately abreast. Full allowance 
must be made at high water for the extent to which these rocks project, 
as the distance is apt to be under estimated, and the ebb from Long Hope, 
and the channels near, sets directly over them. Immediately within the 
head is the deep bay of Kirk Hope, where vessels bound to Long Hope 
occasionally anchor for a tide should the ebb have commenced. 

uiOBT.^The lighthouse on Cantick head, the S.E. extremity of South 
Walls, Hoy island, is built of white bricks, and shows, at an elevation 
of 115 feet above high water, a white light, revolving once every minute ; 
in clear weather it should be visible from a distance of 15 miles. 

Swltba is a narrow islet, ^ a mile long, from 50 to 60 feet high, and 
steep-to on all sides. The flood stream passing it sets directly upon Hoxa 
head. 

KOira BOPB, a secure anchorage, and one much frequented by vessels 
navigating the Pentland flrth, is a deep inlet running in a westerly direc- 
tion for 3^ miles between South Walls and the south coast of Hoy. The 
entrance is easily distinguished by the Mortella towers standing on the 
points upon either side. These towers were erected during the latter part 
of last continental war, to protect the vessels here waiting convoy from the 
numerous privateers that hovered about. 

Crook Boss, the northern point of the entrance, has a reef named Crock- 
ness Taing, extending from it to the eastward, at the outer end of which is 
a black buoy in 3 fathoms. Wideford hill, in Mainland, open of the eastern 
end of Fara island, or the highest part of Swona kept open of ELack Ness, 
clears Crockness Taing, passing to the eastward, and Northness house 
(Long Hope) in one with Melsetter farm leads to the southward of it. At 
1^ miles within the Mortella towers, the Hope, at first a mile wide, is nar- 
rowed by projecting points from either shore, named the North and South 
nesses, to ^ of a mile ; it afterwards widens, and forms an inner basin, but, 
as the water in this is shoal, and the bottom foul, it is seldom frequented. 

The north side of Long Hope is flat, and midway between Crock Ness 
and the North Ferry is a spit with 1 1 feet upon it, extending half the 



CHAP. XI.] LONG HOPE, DIBEGTIONS. 181 

distance across the Hope ; and to avoid it, it is necessary to keep over 
towards the southern shore. 



will be found between the entrance and the nesses, in a 
depth of from 4 to 7 fathoms over a bottom of mud covered with weed. A 
good scope of chain is requisite, for should the anchor start, the weeds 
accumulate about it, and a strain lifts it entirely out of the ground. The 
squalls in north-westerly winds are very heavy, and though the anchorage 
is considered safe, 4 or 5 vessels have been seen on shore at a time, from 
the neglect of due precaution.* 

vsr^ter, — The kirk, a large building with a belfry, is upon the east side 
of the South Ness, and on the beach near is an excellent spring of water, 
where 20 tons a day might easily be obtained. 

Letters are despatched once a week from this place to WidewaU for the 
convenience of shipping. 

DZsaoTZOirs. — If bound into Long Hope during the latter portion of 
the flood stream, pass round to the southward of Switha and between that 
island and Flota, for in the channel between Cantick head and Switha, 
the stream turns to the south-westward one hour after high water by the 
shore, and a vessel using it would be set back into the firth ; whereas, in 
the route recommended, the flood stream continues for an hour longer, and 
the ebb would be in her favour when to the northward of Switha. 

With a westerly wind and flood tide, it is necessary to haul round 
Cantick head as closely as possible, for the stream sets very rapidly from 
the head to the west point of Switha, and without a vessel weathered the 
latter island, she would be unable to get to Long Hope. 

Vessels approaching Long Hope from the southward, are often driven 
past the port by the ebb-stream. Should a vessel bound to the Hope be 
off Duncansby head at the first of the ebb, and the wind be from N.N.W., 
stand well towards the Pentland skerries, and work along the shore of 
South Bonaldsha until able to fetch Stangar head ; but if set to the west- 
ward of Swona, then it is necessary to lie-to in the ebb-eddy on the west 
side of that island, until the last quarter's ebb, when the stream will be 
setting for Switha ; with a light wind, and the chance of not being able to 
fetch Switha before the flood makes strongly, then stand into the shore of 
South Walls to the westward of Cantick head, and take advantage of the 
first of the flood-stream, which sets towards Cantick head, and between 
the head and Switha. 

If bound westward from Long Hope, weigh after high water, for the 
ebb stream will then be found setting round Cantick head, and to the 

westward close along shore as far as Turn Ness. Should there be wind 

I 

'* A life boat is stationed at Long Hope, 



182 ORKNEYS. — SOUTHERN COAST. [chap. an. 

enough to enable a vessel to stem the tide, then weigh an hour or so 
earlier. 

If bound southward from Long Hope with a fresh £ftu* wind, weigh at 
low water bj the shore, run through the Switha channel, where the rate 
of tide is seldom more than 2^ miles an hour, and afterwards steer right 
across to Barth head. The ebb stream will then edge the vessel over 
towards Duncansbj head, and leave her in a good position to take 
advantage of the first of the flood stream. On the other hand, should the 
wind be light, weigh at the same time, steer to the southward from 
Cantick head, and pass to the westward of Swona, so as to reach a fair 
berth in mid-channel ready for the turn of the tide. If too early, then 
remain in the ebb eddy of Swona until the stream slackens. 

The mistake is frequently made of not weighing till the flood-stream 
has begun ; this renders it impossible to get to the westward of Swona, in 
which case, should it fall calm, there is danger of being set either upon 
the Lother or the Pentland skerries. 

'WXDmVTAlA KABBOVS, in South Ronaldsha, E. \ N., 3^ miles from 
Cantick head, is another well-known place of resort, having its entrance 
between Hoxa head to the northward, and Herston head to the southward, 
both which points are rocky and steep-to. Here is good shelter for small 




Entrance to Widewall harbour, N.E. 1^ miles. 

vessels, and the sides of the approach being free from danger, a stranger 
may run in and take up a berth according to the draught of his vessel ; 
but as large vessels cannot get sufliciently within the harbour to shut in 
Hoxa head, they are liable to be driven ashore in westerly gales, and 
several accidents of this sort have happened. In strong westerly gales, 
however, vessels can run into Widewall harbour, under close-reefed top- 
sails or bare poles, when they could not get into Long Hope ; and it also 
has the advantage of allowing vessels bound to the westward to sail out 
of it with a fair wind. The village of Widewall consists of an inn, two 
shops, and a dozen houses, but no dependence can be placed on obtaiDing 
common supplies, or even water, except in small quantities. Farming and 
fishing are the joint occupations of the inhabitants, the latter being pro- 
secuted with some success.* 

CAVTZOir. — Vessels leaving Widewall in light winds, with a strong 
ebb tide, run much risk of being set on the Lother. 



♦ See North Sea Pilot, Part II., page 35. 



CHAP, xi.] WIDEWALL.— DIRECTIONS.— LOTHEK. 



183 

j._In entering Widewall, steer diwcUy for Roebury houMs, 

anr when" the harbour opens, ronnd-to, givin- Herston point a berth of 
X a cable. Anchor in 4 fathom., sand, with Cantick head touching the 
high-water mark of Herston head W. i N. ; but xef^h drawing 10 feet 
and under may go fiirther in upon the sand, which is very flat. A ves^sel 
having lost her anchors may safely be laid ashore on the flat, well within 
Herston point, for no weight of swell finds its way into the inner harbour. 
It is high water, full and change, at Widewall at 9h. 3m.; springs rise 

10 feet, neaps 7^ feet. r c ♦!, 

From Herston head to the southward, the western shore of N>utli 
Ronaldsha forms a bay 3 miles wide, and nearly a mile deep, into which 
the flood-stream sets after passing Cantick head. Barth head, the 
southern pomt of the bay, and a well-marked object from various parts of 
the firth, is a precipitous cliff of stratified sktc. At a mile farther to the 
southward is Wing head, a cliff 50 feet high, and at ^ a mile to the south- 
ward of Wing head is Brough Ness, the south-west extremity of South 
Ronaldsha : this is low, with a large two-storied house a little within it. 

Bimwxcx BAT, between the two last-mentioned points, derives some 
slight shelter from a point of rocks extending out from Wing head, and 
the Lother lying off the entrance. The bottom is rocky, with the exccp- 
tion of a small patch of sand at the head of the bay, and vessels seldom 
take shelter in it. 

Perry.— This is the northern teiininus of the ferry across the Pentland 
firth, which a boat plies daily. It is an interesting feet, that two ojien boats 
have crossed this dangerous sU-ait for thirty years without the occurrence 
of a single accident ; nor have they once been driven out of the firth ; so 
accurate is the knowledge of the ferrymen as to tides and weather. The 
passage has been made in one hour, and it seldom exceeds three. 

Tne XiOTBBR rock, just mentioned, is rightly considered as the most 
formidable danger in the Pentland firth. The outer point lies with 
Herston head just open of Barth head ; Wing head N.N.E. | E. nearly -^ 
of a mile, and Brough Ness E. by S. i S. nearly ^ ot & mile. It is 
nearly all covered at high-water neaps ; but the sea is seldom so smooth as 
to prevent a break or ripple. It is particularly dangerous in spring tides 
and light winds, for vessels passing Brims Ness and drifting along the 
Orkney shore, or leaving Long Hope or Widewall, all run a risk of being 
set upon it. The worst period of the tide is about two hours before high 
water by the shore, or when it is high water at Thurso ; for then the 
stream sets directly upon the rock, at the rate of 9 miles per hour, leaving 
an eddy on the east side, marked by a margin of broken water. At such 
a time, the pressure of the stream occasions a fall of a couple of feet over 
the rock, and vessels set upon the reef have beeS known to roU over it, and 



-. 5- 



184 OEKNETS. — SOUTHBEN COAST. [ohap. m. 

■inlr in deep mter. A outoit belt of the etream alao ruahee through 
within the rocks at the first tarn of the stream. During the ebb, a 
connter-tide is formed on the north side of the Lother, and the stream 
pasaing Brongh Ness tarns round, and sets right upon the west face of 
this rock. A beacon punted red and 37 feet high, is placed near the 
BODth>weet or onter end of the Lother. 

Wideford hill, near Kirkwall, jost open of Barth head N. by E. % E., 
clears the Lother on its west ride, and Old head well open of Brough Ness 
E. J S., clears its Bontb side. 



Old bead, well open of Broogb Ness, 
E. }S. 

xntDBb BDST, extending from the Lother to Old head, is caused by 
the deflection of the fiood to the southward by the Lother and Brough- 
nesB. A little before high water, the stream on the east side of South 
Bonaldsha turns to the sou^ward, gradually forcing the eddy outwards, 
which, towards slock water, occupies the whole space between Old head 
and Fentland skerries. It is large enough to be a safe and convenient 
stopping place for vessels waiting for the turn of the tide. During the 
ebb stream there is but little eddy here, and that dose in-shore, caosed by 
the Old head and the rocks extending from it. 

OU> mUA, (noticed on page 93,) the sonth-east point of South 
Bonaldsha, has a ree^ named the Old skerries, extending from it for 1} 
cables to the eastward, which is cleared by keeping the kirk near Eirk 
Ness open of Halcro head N.N.E. ^ N. The outer rock is never entirely 
corered. 



Kift near Kiik Ness, open of Halcro head, N.N.E. i N- 
This completes the northern, or Orkney side of the Pentland firth, 
and it only remains to describe Swona, an island in the body of the tirth, 
belonging to the Orkney group. 



CHAiP. an.] LIDDBL BBDT. — SWOKA. 186 



'OVA bounds the Pentland firth to the northward^ and Tarftail, the 
BOutli-iTvest end of it, bears from Swilkie point, the north-east end of Stroma, 
K.S. f E. 2| miles. 




* Swona, WJJ.W. 1 J nules. 

This is the nan*owest part of the outer passage, and has received the 

name of the Outer sound. Swona lies in a general N.E. by E. direction ; 

it is about a mile long, and ^ a mile wide, and of a crescent shape, its 

^w^estern shore being concave. The eastern side is composed of cHfifs, but 

a low rocky foreshore bounds the west side, projecting in some places 

150 yards, and one low-water rock, the West Bow, lies out 1^ cables, one- 

tliird down from the north end of the island. The extremities of the 

island are of bare black rock, while the centre rises' into a rounded summit 

168 feet high. The inhabitants, 50 in number, have their houses about 

midway on the west side, where most cultivation exists, and they by turns 

act as pilot, fisherman, or farmer. The only spring of water upon the 

island is among the rocks at the south end, and this is often covered by 

the tide ; there are indifferent landing-places on either side of the north 

end, but it is frequently impossible to approach the island in any 

direction. 

Numerous wrecks have occurred on this island from vessels driving 
down upon it with the tide ; the invariable rule with the pilots in such 
cases is to drop an anchor, for, as the ground is shelly, it is seldom lost. 
No vessel touching has ever been got ofi* again. 

BWOnrjL r&ooB bbbt reaches from the east side of the island 
nearly to the Lother, and the northern edge of it in E.S.E. gales causes a 
dangerous swilkie. On the east side of the island is very deep water, with 
a rocky bottom, and few vessels anchor there. If drifting through on the 
fiood, and when within 2 miles of Swona, Pentland Skerry is open to the 
southward, the vessel will be set to the southward of Swona, with a 
velocity in springs of 9 knots per hour ; but should she pass within ^ of a 
mile of the island, she will probably be set into the eddy on the east side, 
out of which it is difficult to get in light winds. 



has its southern edge in the direction of Turn 
Ness, and is formed by the ebb, divided by the convexity of the eastern 
side, rushing along and past each end of the island, with a velocity 
greater than in the case of any other island. The eddy is extensive, and 
the cross or counter sets in it are very sportive, so that the most 



186 ORKNEYS. — SOTJTHEKN COAST. [chap. xi. 

experienced cannot predict the direction they will take at any given 
time. 

If drifting towards the island with the ebb daring a calm, it requires 
the eye of a good pilot to determine which end the vessel will be set 
round, nor is it easy to give a stranger a guiding mark, for the appear- 
ances nearly to the last are as if she were drifting upon the centre of the 
island. It may, however, be generally stated, that if 'Cantick head is 
open of the north end of the island, she will drift to the north- 
ward, and if Brims Ness is open of the south point of the island, she will 
be set to the southward. 



IB. — ^It is high water on the east side of Swona, full and change, 
at 10 h. 24 m., or 2 hours after Thurso, but on the west side of the 
island high water occurs half an hour earlier than on the east side. In the 
Outer sound, or the channel between Swona and Stroma, the stream turns 
exactly 3 hours after the time of high and low water. 

Full information for navigating the Fentland firth is given in the North 
Sea Pilot, Part II., Chapter 11. 



187 



INDEX. 



Agrista ness 
Aiker ness - 
Aikemess bow 

• holm or skerry - 

house 

— peninsula 

Air point - - . 

Airbrae - - - 

Aith baas ... 
' hope - - - 

ness - - - 

voe - - - 

Altars of Linnay or Linna - 
Ander or St. Andrew's Hill - 
Apitown ness 

Atlas score - . . 

Auskerry island 

light 

sound 

— — caution 

Ayilsa point 

Back holm ... 
Backs ... 

Bakasca] cottage 

skerry 

Bakaskeal bay 

farm-house 

Balfour castle 

village 

Ballier skerry 
Ballister holm 



voe 



Balta harbour 
■ island- 
*' sound - 

directions 

tides 

Banks cottage 
Bard head, Mousa - 
Bam Taing 
• — — - buoy 



Page 
86,37 

143, 144 
98, 99 
98,99 

145, 146 

- 98 

- 133 

- 133 

9 

- 179 

- 61 

- 9, 61 

- 104 

9 

- 150 

- 13 
91, 128, 137 

- 91 
129, 137 

- 129 

- 143 

110, 112 

- 26 

- 100 

- 100 
115, 139 

- 116 

- 156 

- 156 

- 77 

- 19 

- 19 

- 47 

- 47 
40,47 

- 48 

- 48 

- 139 

- 8,9 

- 135 

- 135 



Barrel of Butter or Carlin skerry 

166, 

• beacon 

Barthhead - - 177, 
Basta ness - . . 
voe - - - 

■ ■ supplies . 
Bea ness ... 
Belcher point 
Bellemont mansion - 
Bemen Taing 

Bene ness ... 
Benelips ... 
' sound 

directions 

Benlin ... 

Berry head ... 

Bigga islet ... 

Bigton bay - - - 

Billian, Little 

Birbos reef . . ' . 

Birsa, Brough of - 

Birston head 

Bixetter voe 

Black craig - - 88, 89, 

holm 

rock - . . 

Blue Mull sound 



Boester holm 
Boness 
Bora holm . 

ness . 

skerries 

Bordie 

Bore, the 

Bound skerry 

Bow head, Westra - 

rocks, Eda 



directions - 
islands in mouth 

tides 
refuge 



Page 

175, 177 

- 175 
182, 183 

- 42 

- 41 

- 42 

- 115 

- 12 

- 43 

- 135 
74,75 

- 25 

- 25 

- 25 

- 126 

- 179 

- 30 

- 82 

- 17 

- 113 

- 89 

- 157 

- 73 
159, 163 

- 133 

- 62 

- 2,43 

- 45 
of 42 

- 2,45 

- 51 

- 11 

5 

- 147 

- 147 

- 147 
59,64 

- 99 
. 24 

98 

- 139 



188 



INPBX. 



Bow rookB, Wectra - 
Brae Grena, or Breya Gnma - 
Biae house - . . 

Braewick - . . 

bay 

honse 

Braga ness. Mainland 

reef - - - 

skerry 

Braginreef- 

Brak ness, or Biek ness 

house - 

Brakewell house 
Brebister point 
Breck house 
Bressay island 

light 

-^— soond 

■^— — — directions 

tides - 



ward 



Brethren rocks 
Breya Gnma 
Brides ness - 
Brims ness - 
Brindaster shore 

house 

Broad eddy - 



directions 



shoal 
buoy 



Broomhill house 
Brother island 
Brough bay, Westra 
— ^— Sanda 
Brough house 

ness 

— — of Ness 
^^— point 

■ store 
Bruce hall - 

■ holm 
Bruiy islet - 
Bue point - 
Buness mansion 
Bur ness 

Burgar, Brough of - 

reef 

roost 

skerry 

Burgh head, Stronsa 



107, 



144, 



- 91, 



PatSQ 

- 100 

114,119 

- 87 

- 138 
56,61 

- 61 

- 61 

144, 145 
159, 166 

- 71 
159, 163 

- 159 

- 102 

- 162 

- 149 

- 1,9 

- 10 

- 10 

- 11 
11, 12 

9 

11,12 

114, 119 

104, 105 

- 179 
. 62 

- 62 

- ^55 

- 155 
122, 148 

- 148 

- 45 
. 31 

- 101 

- 138 

- 101 

- 183 

- 64 

- 101 

- 101 

- 45 

- 23 

- 25 

- 161 

- 47 
112, 150 

- 144 

- 144 

145, 146 
28,33 

118, 129 



Bumthammersland ness and 
Burr, point of the - 
Burra East, island - 

■ West, island - 
Burra, north-east and north- 
Burrafiord - 

■ holms 

light . 

■- noup 
Burrafirth holm 

• ness 

West voe 

Burra ness - 
voe - 

' — , Horse of - 

Burwick 

bay 

Bue 

holm 

Burwick sound 



tides 



Bust^ house 
voe 



Gairston holms 

holm old mill 

road 

anchorage 

Caithness 

paps 

Calf sound - 

■ caution - 

directions 

' tides 

Cali ness 
Calsta ness - 
Campston - 
Cantick head 

Ught 

Cara point - 
Car ness 
Cara store - 
Carlin skerry 



Camess bay 
Carrick bight 

house 

Catasand 
Catfirth house 



beacon 



voe 



directions 



Page 
house - 15 

- 54 
1,80 

1, 78, 80 
westndes 169 

- 60 

- 61 

- 51 

- 50 

- 63 

- 63 

- 63 
42, 169 

- 38 
32, 39 

- 163 

- 183 

- 168 

- 77 
159, 163 

- 168 
59, 60 

- 59 

161, 164, 165 

- 167 
161, 167 

- 161 

- 86 

- 86 
138, 140 

- 141 

- 141 

- 141 
110,111 

- 38 

- 135 
180, 181 

- 180 

- 172 

- 153 

- 170 
166, 175, 177 

- 175 

- 157 
140, 141 

- 141 

- 114 

- 15 
15, 16 

- 15 



IKDBX. 



189 



Catherine, St., store 
Catness Ttang 
Cava islimd 
Challister ness 
Channes island 
Clalarae reef 
Cleat bay - 



mansion 
point - 



Clestron honse 
mill 

■ skerries 
I storehonse - 

, ward of - 

Clett bay - 

head - 

holm - 

■ rock - 

skerry, Otterswick 

, Gremsa 
Cliff hills - 
— skerry 
■ sound - 

anchorage 

directions 
Climning rock 
Cloa rock - 
Clog, the - 
Clonsta Yoes 

■ — anchorage 

directions 

Clnmly baas 
Clump rock 
Colbrack ness 
Colgrave sound 
Colifirth Yoe 
Colifriih ness 



voe 



Colliefield baas 



ness 



Colsay island 
Colvidale baa 
Colzi^garth fEum-honses 
Copinsha, Horse of - 
■ island 

' sound 

— — directions - 

— — — — roost 



Copista, Brough of - 
Com holm - 
Costa head - 



88, 



Page 

- 181 

. - 26 
168, 175 

- 23 

- '77 
106, 118 

- 101 
101, 102 

- 101 

- 166 

- 167 
162, 167 
162, 166 

- 117 

- 129 
20,21 

- 20 

- 40 

- 110 
164, 167 

- 81 

- 61 

- 81 

- 81 

- 81 

- 18 
28,82 

- 114 

- 62 

- 63 

- 62 

7 

- 122 

- 86 
39,40 

- 87 

- 34 

- 34 
' - 19 

- 19 

- 82 

- 46 

- Ill 
92, 133, 170 

92, 132 

- 133 

- 133 

- 133 
28, 131 

- 133 
127, 144, 146 



Cow rock - 
Cowsgar cottage 
Creso reef - 
Crock ness - 
Crockness taing 



buoy 



Cross island 

kirk - 

Crow ness - 
Crowtaing point 
Cabester skerries - 
Cubsey rock 
•^— — buoy - 
Cul ness 
Culla Yoe - 
— — directions - 
— — ness 

refuge 
Cullensbro' ness 
^-^— — wick 
Culswick, Brough of 

■ ness 
Cumlie point 
Cuthe bank - 

Dai island - 
Dale ness - 
l)amsa holm ' 

■ sound 
Danger shoal 
Deals ness - 



voe 



Dennis ness 



-, Yell sound 



beacon 
light 



roost 
skerry 



Deemess Brough - 
mull 

peninsula - 

roost 



Deer sound - 



directions 



Deepdale bay 
Deeps, the - 
Dike-ends - 
Dingys how 
Ditches farm 
Docks 
Door holm - 



Page 

- 114 

- 147 

- 106 

- 180 

- 180 

- 180 

- 7, 88 

- 115 

- 161 

- 173 

- 160 
168, 171 

- 168 

- 34 
44,64 

- 44 
44,51 

- 61 

- 18 

9 

- 68 

- 68 

- 117 

- 138 

. 42 

- 66 

- 151 

- 161 

- 133 

- 36 
14, 16 

- 35 

- 90, 95, 105 

6, 90, 103 

- 90, 103, 108 

- 96 

- 115 

- 184 
91, 134, 135, 137 

- 133 

- 137 
132, 134 

- 136 

- 66 

- 71 

- 174 

- 183 

- 130 

- 10 

- 66 



190 



INDEX. 



iVnrr « Ti>if 



IW|eo«Bes» 



Sttrt Bwrntsbad 



9kerri«», Bum 



Sbbing Kd47 roek - 

— ^^— ^ buoy - 

fiehnalock bay 

£da»C«lfof 

<— wst side 

— -» Groina or Gruna 

kirk - 

— sound 

— ^-~ — directioiis 



— south side 

SdaWaid - - - 

west and south-west sides 

windmill 



Page 
. 18 

. 19 

- 19 

- 130 
. S4 

- 56 

- 181 

- 80 

- 18 

- SI 

- S9 

- 80 
. 69 

. 164, 165, 167 

- 164 

- 170 
-188,139,140 

. 139 

182, 139 

117, 138 

. 138, 132, 138 

. 139, 140, 141 

- 132 



Egilsha grand 
— *-^— island 
EUs ness 
EUsness holm 
EUwick 

bank 

Enfield house 
■ point 
Eriyalhill - 
Esha ness - 

■ — skerry 
Eswick, Mull of 
Evie sands - 
Eynhallow (Holy island) 

■ skerries - 
, sound 



- 139 

- 124 

- 117 
. 126 

- 126 
114, 120 

- 120 

- 156 

- 153 

- 33 

- 35 

- 101 

- 55 
55, 59, 65 

12, 17 
. 144 

- 143 
143, 145 

. 142, 148, 150 



.. — directions - 
— *- tides 



Eyre, holms of 

Fair island - 

roost 
. — tides 
ward 



145, 146 

- 146 

107, 138 



1, 4, 89, 94, 96 

6 

5 

- 4,6 



Fara bay 

— holm - 

island - 

ness - 

sound - 

Faradet head 
Farafield house 
Feny, Pentland firth 
Feny point - 

f Yell sound 

Fethaland or Feideland 
Fetlar island 
FUla stack - 

— sound - 

directions 

Fiord Baa - 

Firth bay - 

anchorages 

Firth manse 
Firths ness - 

voe - 

Fish holm - 
Fitful head - 
Fitty hiU - 
Fladdecaps - 
Flaas or Flaws house 
Fleshes shoal 
Mess of Scaw 
Flessinge of Bumble 

— Sandwich 
Flubers Gardie 
Flota, Calf of 
island 

islet - 

Foraholm - 

ness - 

Fort Charlotte 
Forwick holm 
Foul Baa - 
Foula island 

Kaim of 

Foula ness - 
Foutabrough voe - 
Friar rocks - 
Frow stack - 
Fugloe skerry 
Fuscawick - 



Pa^e 

- 125 

123, 124 

124, 176 

- 125 

- 124 
. 126, 127, 128 

- 167 

- 183 

- 161 

- 35 
point - 52 

- 1,39 

- 25 

- 25 

- 25 
31,33 

- 150 

- 151 

- 150 
30, 35 

- 35 

- 29 
6, 67, 82 

- 89 

- 17 

- 146 

- 163 

- 49 

- 21 

- 20 

- 51 
- 166, 175, 176 

- 176 

- 74 

- 73 
35, 73, 82 

- 10 
. 65 

- 76 
1, 6, 67 

- 67 

- 36 

- 68 

- 67 
13, 17 

- 64 

- 50 



Gairsa, Hen of - - 147, 155 

— ^ north and west sides - 145 

■ ■ school-house - - 147 



INDEX. 



191 



Page 

Gairsa sound - - 145, 146 

■ soath-west and south sides - 147 



-ward 



GaUow HiU - 

Gait or Walt ness - 

— — point - 

sikerry- 

buoy - 

Garda baas 
Garder house and manse 
Garderhouse voe 
Garri mount 
Garth, house 

ness - 

voe - 

Gatneap 
Gazebo 

Gilderumple head - 
Gill point 
Gio ness 

roost 

Glims hohn 

skerry - 

beacon 

Glitness islands 

— North voe 

Gloup holm - 

ness - 

voe - 

Glus peninsula 

voe 

Gonfirth voe 

Gors ness - 

Grsems hall - 

Grass holm - 

Graveland ness 

— ^— — Noup 

Great Green holm - 

• Halvera island 

Linga (Orkneys) 

(Shetland) 



Fentland skerry 



Greeli or Greenli ness 
Greenfield House 
Green head, Bressay sound 
, Hoy - 



holm, Bressay 

, Fethaland point 

, Scalloway 

, Westra firth - 127, 128, 186 

, Yell - - - 28 



-136,145,147 

. Ill 

1S6, 148 

. 136 

- 186 

- 186 

- 21 

- 72 

- 72 

- Ill 

- 36 

- 83 

- 36 

- 174 

- 152 

- 71 
101, 102 
136, 187 

- 137 

- 169 
169, 171 
169, 170 

18, 14 

- 16 

- 52 

- 52 

- 52 

- 87 

- 87 

- 60 

- 150 
-168, 170,171 

- 148 

- 52 

- 52 

- 121 

- 1,80 

- 180 

- 22 

- 91 

- 180 

- 48 
12 

168, 176 
11, 13 

- 52 

- 78 



- 92, 



Greenie Brae 
Greentaft house 
Gremsa island 

lights 

Gretness voe 
Grey head - 
Grice ness - 

skerry 

Grief skerry 
Grim ness - 
Grimbuster holm 

. point - 

Qrimmister bight - 

Grimsetter head 

Grinds, the ... 

■ buoy 
Grob ness ... 
Groin baa . 

Gronafea ... 
Gruna baas ... 

' island. Out skerries . 

-, Vementry sound 



- islet - 

- light . 

- reef - 
-. sound 
-voe - 



Gruthay 
Grating bay 



voe- 



', directions 



Guataing 
Guens 

Gulberswick 
Gunnester island 

— voe 

Gutter sound 
Gyre house 

Haaf Grana 
Haco ness - 
Hack ness, Sanda - 

, South Walls 

Hadston house 
Hagdale baa 

point 

Halcro head 
Hale head * 
Halvera islands 
Haly how . 
ness - 



Page 

- 141 
115, 186 

- 163 

- 168 

- 6,7 
138, 140 

- 118 

- 118 

- 21 
170, 172 

. 150 

- 150 

- 12 

- 44 
177, 178 

- 177 

- 60 

- 60 

- 188 

8 

- 24 

- 62 

- 74 

- 24 

- 19 

- 53 

- 19 
. 125 

- 40 

- 69 

- 69 

- 113 

- 25 

8 

- 57 

- 57 

- 176 

- 174 



48, 45, 46 
185, 186, 156 

- 115 

- 180 

- 152 

- 48 

- 48 
98,* 184 

- 62 

- 1, 80 

- 110 

8 



1 



192 



INBBX. 



flam, bead of 
Inlet - 



-^, taing of 
Hammer house 
— ^— nesBy Fetlar 
-^^— — ^ HillBwick 



Toe 



Hamna Yoe, Lomia - 
, Mainland 

, Pfepa Stour 

^.Yell - 

Haroldswick 



neas - - - 

Harpxock . - - 

Hascoaeabaa 

ialand- 
■ sound - 

■ ■ directionB 
Hayre de Grind rocks - • 

Hawks ness 

, baas of 
HeUinabretta 
Hells mouth 
Hellyar holm 
Hen and chickens - 
Herma ness 

, or Hermansgar bay 

, Bow - 

, peninsula 
Herston head 
— point 

Hestaness - - - 

Hevde baa - - - 

' skerry 

Heydegarth head 
Heyden ness 
Hildasay island 
Hillswick or Urie firth 



tides 



bay 

house 
ness 



Hirpa skerry 
Hless rock - 
Hog islands 
Hogof Linga 

— Neap 
Hogan point 
Hogobaas - 

— ness - 



Page 
. 11 

- 67 
. 46 

- 11 

- 48 
48 

- 67 

- 57 

- 3d 

- 55 

- 64 

- 88 

- 48 
43,44 

- 124 
41,40 

1, 89, 40 
39,40 

- 41 

- 67 

- 13 

- 14 

- 40 

- 119 
156, 159 

- 141 
50,51 

- 138 

- 138 

- 136 

- 182 

- 183 

- 40 

- 11 

- 17 

- 41 

- 60 

- 1,76 

- 56 
. 57 

- 57 

- 57 
56,57 

- 76 

- 121 
17,18 

- 76 
17,18 

- 12 
.- 20 

- 44 



Hogoland holm 

— — ^ point 

Hole, the ' 

Holland house 103, 108, 109, 

Holm kirk and manse 

— ^ sound 

— ^— ^ directions 

— ^ tides - 

Hofanstein point 
Horse island 

sound 

— of Burra voe - 
-^-of Halyera - 
Housayoe - . . 

Housbay fiiimhouse 
Housey islet 
Houton coye 
head 



— holm 



How fimnhouse 

— house - 

— skerry 

— stack - 

Howan or Bowsa sound 



162, 
162, 



-126, 
directions 



Howan house 

Howquoy head 

Hozabay ... 

head - - 172,176, 

sound 

— directions 

Hoy, Bow of - - 163, 

« bum - - - 

Calf - 

head or.Eame of Hoy 

89, 159, 160, 
hill - 

— island 
islet • 

•^~- kirk and manse 

mouth - - 159, 

caution 

— , north-east side 
-^— skerries 

— sound - - - . 
' directions 

— — -^— tides 



-, ward hill of 



Huckster, baas of - 

point 

Huip holm - 



- 91, 



Page 

43 

44 

. 6, 94 

129, ISO 

- 168 
92, 168 

170, 171 

171, 177 
« 136 

- 7,83 

- 133 
32, 39 

- 75 
64 

- 129 

- 25 

- 173 
173, 174 
166, 173 

- 116 

- 108 

- 76 
13,16 

142, 143 

- 127 

- 154 
169, 175 

- 172 
177, 180 

- 177 

- 177 

164. 166 

- 173 

- 175 

162. 167 

85, 165 

- 85 

- 74 

- 163 
166, 167 

- 161 

- 162 
163, 167 

- 159 

- 165 

- 168 

86, 165 

- 66 

- 66 
116, 132 



INDEX. 



193 



Page 

Hana island - - - 46 

Hnnda - - - 170, 177 

, hope of or Honda sonnd 170, 173 



leeland ^erry 
Icelanders - 
Inga ness or Ingaval 
Inganess bay 
Ingale or Ingold skerry 
Inner Voder 
Irlandbay - 
Isbister holm 
Isbuster bay 
Islesburgh ness 

' - peninsula 

Jacks hole - 

KameofHoy 81,159, 

Kay holm - . . 

Keel rocks - . . 

Keels roost 

Kell, the - 

Kettle ness - . . 

Kettletaft - 
' tides 

Kibester ness 

Kierfea hill 

Eaerlies reef 

Kill holm - . . 

Kinnaird head 

Elrbuster house 

Kirk bay, Shapinsha 
, Mainland 
' holm - - 

— ness, Whalsey - 

, Gkurderhouse voe 
, South Bonaldsha 



rocks - 

— ^- sound 

Hope bay 

Kirkabister ness 
Kirkhouse skerry - 
Kh'ko baas • 
Kirkwall 
'■ bay 

cathedral 127, 136, 

— — harbour 



— light 

— supplies, &c. 

— tides 
37383. 



153, 155 

- 62 
121, 127 
134, 157 

. 129 

- 17 

- 162 

- 21 

- 150 

- 58 

- 58 

- 118 

160, 162, 167 

- 41 

6 
6 

- 116 

- 79 

- 114 

- 116 

- 14 

- 125 

- 115 
126, 127 

- 98 

- 118 
156, 158 

- 174 

- 72 

- 20 

- 72 

- 184 
159, 164 

168, 170, 171 

- 180 
10, 11 

- 76 

- 20 

- 152 
134, 152 

149, 152, 175 

- 152 

- 153 

- 153 

- 156 



Knitchinfield hill - 

pile 
Knockhall, taing of - 
Knoll shoal - 

Lamb head - 

holm 

Lamba ness 

peninsula - 

Lamma, or Lamba island 

'■ ness 
— — skerry 
Lang Taing 

Langa or Lumma skerry 
Langa skerry buoy 

^- directions 

, JFirth bay 

Langskail bam 

— ^— - farmhouse 

point 

Langware Taing 

Lashy skerry 
• sound 



roost 



caution 
directions 
roost - 



Laughton's house - 

Laxfirth voe 

Leera skerry 

Lerwick 

— — directions - 

■ docks 

— — — — , north entry 

supplies, &c. 

Less or Lois skerries 
Levenip 
Levenwick - 
Levy sound - 
Liddel eddy - 
Lights, Auskerry - 
—— , Bressay 
— , Burrafiord - 

, Cantick head 

, Gremsa 

, Gruna 

— , Kirkwall - 

, North Bonaldsha 
— , Fentiand skerries 

, Start 
s Sumburgh head 



Page 

. 129 

149, 154 

- 172 
169, 171 

95, 119, 129 

169, 170, 171 

40, 49, 132 

- 138 
31,33 

- 110 

- 110 

- 126 
149, 154 

. 149 

- 154 

- 150 
146, 154 

- 145 

- 145 

- 106 

- 106 

- 139 

- 139 

- 140 

- 139 
. 140 

- 177 
14, 16 

- 64 

- 9, 10 

- 11 

- 10 

- 12 

- 11 

- 98 

- 19 

8 

- 124 

- 184 

- 91 

- 10 
49,51 

- 180 

- 163 

- 24 

- 153 
4, 90, 103 

6, 134 
4, 6, 90 
4,6,84 



194 



INDEX. 



lincletbay . • . 

IdDgft baa . - <- 

■ Great, island, Orkneys 

, Shetland 
— — Island, East - 

— ■ ■■ ■■ ■ , Stronsa 

— — 1 Vementry sound 



Page 

105 

69 

130 



>, Yell sound 



Little, islet, Eda 

, Stronsa 

— — — , Whalsey 



islet, Scalloway 
sound. Yell 

Stronsa 
———directions 



Yell- 



Link ness 
Linnabaa - 
linton baas 
Lippa 

lithy rocks - 
IdtUe Billian 

ilugga 

Green holm - 

»— — Halvera island 

■ holm - 

— — — Linga, Eda, sound 

, Stronsa 

, Whalsey 



Noup- 

Fapa island 
>- Papa sound 
-Booe- 
~ Seal skerry 

skerry 



Littlegarth point 
Local attraction 
Lockend point 
Lois skerries 
Long head - 

Hope - 

■ anchorage 



- 21 

- 130 

- 62 

- 80 

- 132 

- 116 
. 22 

- 76 

- 44 

- 181 

- 131 

- 43 
116, 132 

- 31 
. 136 

- 172 

- 114 

- 17 

- 51 
121, 137 

. 80 
23, 31, 33 

- 132 

- 116 
. 22 
• 124 

- 1,60 

- 60 

- 31 
149, 154 

- 25 

- 45 

- 48 

- 37 

- 98 
57, 68 

134, 173, 180, 181 

- 181 



despatch of letters 

directions 

water 



ness - 

Longa islet - 
Lonton bay - 
Loofa baa - 
Lop ness 
Ijopness bay 



181 

181 

181 

73 

77 

139 

12 

113 

113 



Lother rock, Sanda - 
, South Bonaldiha 



-beacon - 



Lothian rock 
Luggies Know 
Lnmma or Langa skerry 
Lumma skerries 
Lunga skerry 
Luninghead - 
Lunna holm 



ness 



Lusetter head 

Lyrenreef - - - 

Lyrwa bay - - - 

Magnus, St., bay - 

tides 

Magnnssetter voe - 

Mainland - . . 

f north-east side - 

, south-east side - 
, south-west side - 

Malcolm head 

Mallow bank 

Maltbam taing 

Mare of Lunna 

Margarets, St., Hope 

Marwick head 

Mary, St, hamlet - 

Masewell 

Maw ness ... 

Maywick head 

holm 

Meal bay ... 

Melby house 

Melsetter farm 

Mercadi point 

Merry holm 

Middle ground 

Voder 

Midgarth store 

Midsound baa. Bay of Firth 

baas. Papa sound 

-, Yell sound 

Micady or Mercadi point - 

Mill bay - 

— or Odin bay - 

Millbum - - - 

Millstone quarry 

Mio ness - - - 

Mocletbay - - - 



Page 

- 107 
182, 183 

- 184 

- 58 
12, 14 

149, 154 

- 129 

- 27 
. 24 

- 27 

- 26 

- 41 
. 130 

- 175 

- 55 

- 56 

- 57 

- 1,85 

- 148 

- 168 

- 159 

5 

- 161 

- 132 

- 26 
172, 173 

- 89 

- 168 

- 104 

- 78 

- 82 

- 81 

- 157 

- 64 
179, 180 
134, 135 

- 78 

- 12 

- 17 

- 131 

- 151 

- 65 

-31,33 

134, 135 

- 139 

- 118 

- 147 
. 168 

- 25 

- 100 



IND£X. 



195 



Moclet point 
Morrister house 

■ " — , Skate of - 
Moss Bank post office] 
Mousa island 
Mouwick head 
Muckle Billian 

Fless - 

Flagga 

^ Booe island - 



Page 
100, 108 

- 20 
20, 23, 24 

- 36 
1, 7, 8, 9 

39,40 

- 17 

- 69 

- 51 

- 1,58 



skerry. Little skerry, or the 
skerries of Niveback 

skerry, Out skerries 

, Yell 



39 
25 

28 
69 
21 



Mncklure ness ... 

Muir holm - - - - 

Mull head, Papa Westra, or Mull of 

Papa - - - 6, 99, 107 

Mu ness - - - - 46 

baas - - - 46 

castle - - - 46 

Mygge neite - - 44 



Nab point - 
Nacker skerry 
Narrows 
Naver holm - 
Neap, East - 

, manse 

Needle point 
Neing of Brindaster 
Ner skerry - 
Ness of Sound 

, skerry of 

beacon 



- U 

- 21 

- 37 

- 177 

- 39 
18, 23 

- 172 

- 62 

- 150 
11,30 

160, 166, 167, 168 

- 160 



Nester holm 

Nesting bay 

Nether Scapa 

Neva skerry, or Navir holm 

Newark farmhouses 

hoases 

Nibon island 
Ninian, St., island - 
Nive baas - 
Niveback skerries - 
Niw hill 

local attraction • 

No ness 
Noltland castle 
North Clousta voe - 



- 21 

- 18 

- 175 

- 177 
beacon- 177 

- 113 

- 105 

- 57 

- 82 

- 13 

- 39 
46, 48, 49 

- 48 

7 

- 101 

- 62 



North Halvera island 

haven 

Mavine parish 

ness, Lerwick 

, Long Hope 

, Papa Westra 



Page 

- 75 

5 

1 

10, 12 

- 180 

- 99 

- 180 



Northness house 

North Bonaldsha, established kirk 104, 105 

firth - 106-110 

, directions 108, 109 

, tides - 110 



island 

Hght 

tides 



Booe 
shoal 



tides - 



sound 
taing 



Nerthfield farmhouse 

house • - 

Norwick or Northwick bay - 
Noss Cradle 

head - - - 

island ... 

sound - - - 

Nounsbrough ness - 
Noup bay, Westra - 

, Little - . - 

head, Westra - 

of Norbie 

Nug holm ... 

Ockren head 

Odin or Mill bay - 

— «— ness - - - 

Odinness Bow 

Olas voe - - . 

Old head - 

kirk 

Man of Hoy 

skerries 

OUaberry bay 

house 

— — ness 

Ohia firth - 
Onifirth voe 
Ord head 
Orfer bum - 
ward - 



90, 95, 103 

- 90 
104, 105 

- 37 

- 88 

- 88 
98, 138 

- 100 

- 168 

- 169 

- 49 

9 
9 

- 1,9 

9 

- 62 

- 98 

- 124 
88, 89 

- 63 

- 36 



54 

- 118 

- 118 

- 118 
64, 69 

93, 184 

159, 165 

88, 89, 159, 165, 179 

- 184 

- 37 

- 37 

- 37 

- 60 

- 62 
9 

- 173 

- 167 

- 86 



Orkneys, approaching the land 

N 2 



196 



IKDEX. 



Orkneys, caution - 
, direotionB - 

.-^ from the 

ward - - - 



ward 



— , eastern coast 
— , general description 
— , sonndings 
— , tides 
-, western coast 



Outer Voder 
Orry kirk fiumhoose 
Osnabuster cottages - 
Ossa skerry 
Otterswick - 

.- — , directions 

, free kirk 

-, tides 



Our ness 
Ous ness 
Out skerries 



., caution 



Out stack, Fair isle - 

. , Burrafiord holm - 

Outstaness - - - 

Outer sound 

Oxafirthbaa 

Oxan baas - - - 

. point 

Oxfoot rock 
Oxna island 

Pan Hope - - " 

Papa Groina 

holm of - ■ 

horn of - " 

.1. island 
. , Little - 



Mull of 

skerry 

sound, Papa Westra, Orkney - 100 



Page 

- 96 
86,93 

soath- 

- 93 

east- 

- 94 

90-93 
85-97 

- 94 

- 95 
87-89 

- 17 

- 162 

- 143 
55,65 

107, 110 

- HI 

- Ill 

- 112 

- 98 

- 101 
. 24 
. 25 

5 

- 61 

- 52 
. 185 

- 64 

- 164 
164, 167 

- 83 

- 77 

173, 176 

- 117 

- 100 

- 64 

- 77 

- 60 
6, 99, 108 

- 77 



-, Shetland 



-, directions 



-, Stronsa 
-, Little - 



Stour island - 

Stronsa 

Westra Island - 

Fapil bay - 
ness 



65 
. 66 
118, 120 

- 60 
. 1,64 
91,117 

- 99 

- 44 

- 44 



Page 

- 177 

- 160 

- 176 

175, 176 
Pentiand firth 93, 179, 183, 185, 186 

lights- - - 98,134 

skerries 85, 92, 93, 181, 182, 185 

Peter skerry - - 162, 166, 167 



Park cottage 
Patent slip - 
Pegalbnm 
' head 



buoy - 



Petworih, or Peatworth - - 
Pierowall harbour - 

. roadstead 

— directions 

■ caution 

Pilots - - - 

Poldrite, or Poldreet skerry 

farmhouse - 

Pollixfen's house - 

Pond holm - - - 

Post office ~ - - 

Quanterness 
Quantemess &Tmhouse 
skerry 



Quendale bay 



directions 



point 



Quiabow, or Quoybow 

Quoys bay. Hoy 

Quoy ness, Flota - - 

Sanda - 

rock - - - 

Quoyval - - - 
Quyfirth ness 
voe 

Backwick - - - 

Railsbro' ness 

Bamna stacks 

Bams ness - - - 

Bap ness - - - 

Bapness bay 

i.—^ . directions 

Beafirth voe 

directions 

Bed head, Eda 108, 122, 124, 127, 

. Hills wick 

. ■ skerry - 

holm - - - 

Bede skerry 

Beef dike - - - 

Beftige - - - 



- 162 

- 130 

- 101 

- 101 

- 102 

- 102 

4 

- 149 

- 149 

- 162 

- 34 

- 35 

- 151 

- 149 

- 151 
-7,83 

- 83 

- 142 

- 117 

- 163 

- 176 

- 115 

- 144 

- 122 

- 37 
. 37 

89,98 
14, 15 
52,53 

- 40 

- 122 

- 123 

- 123 

- 41 

- 41 
132, 140 

- 57 

- 140 

- 124 

- 114 
105, 109 

-8,61 



nn>Bx. 



197 



Rendal holm 
— ^^— manse 

shore, directions 

Rerwick head 
ReiKrick ness 
Riddock shoal 



buoy 



Risa 

Risa bouse, Hoy - 

sound - 

Riv reef 

beacon - 

Rivera baas 
Roebury house 

Rom ness - 

Qona hill - 

voe - 

Ronaldsha, North, firth 



Page 
144, 148 

- 150 

- 154 
- 134, 135, 156 

. 71, 72 
164, 167 

- 165 

- 175 

- 176 
173, 175 

- 107 

- 107 

- 65 

- 183 

- 161 

- 1, 54 

- 64 
104-109 



directions 108,109 

island 85, 103, 104, 105, 

106 
South island 85, 91, 92, 172, 

181, 183, 184 



Rone head - 
Rooe, skerries of - 

Little 

. sound 

Boost, Burgar 

. , Dennis 

— .-, Fair island - 
— -, Gio of Shapinsha 

, Hoy mouth - 

, Langware taing 

, Mull of Deemess 

, Mull of Papa 



-, Scaw 

, Seal skerry - 

, Sumburgh head 

, Wael 

, War ness 

, Westra 

, Westra firth - 

Rooswick - 
Bose ness - 
Boseness cottages - 
Bovey head - 
Bow head - 
Bowsa, north-east side 



- 176 
32, 38 

- 31 

- 58 
144, 145 

- 96 

6 

- 137 

- 167 

- 106 

- 137 

- 99 

- 49 

- 104 
- . - 7 

- 145 

- 137 

- 99 

- 128 

- 107 
-168,169,170 

- 155 
11, 12 

- 165 
. - 125 



north-west and south-west 



sides 
kirks and manse 



- 142 
126, 142 



Bowsa Knee 
■ sound 



-, directions - 



— — ^— ward pile • 
Bousholm baa 
■ bay 

head 

house 

Bousholm peninsula 
Bull, the - 
Bullard, the 
Bumble holm 

rocks 

Bunabrake - 
Bus ness - • 

Busa ness - 
Busk holm - 
Buskick 

Busland cottages 
Buthy taing 



Page 
126, 128 
126, 142 

- 127 

- 154 

- 180 

- 130 
- 129, 180, 137 

129, ISO 

- 130 

- 128 

- 128 

- 21 
33, 29 

107, 108 

- 113 

- 78 

- 123 

- 61 
122, 127 

- 138 



Sacquoy head 
Samphra island 
Salt ness 
Sand, the - 

of Green 

Eels - 

voe, North Mainland - 

West Mainland - 

Sanda island 

, north-east side 

sound 

, directions 

, tide - 



-125, 



-, south side 

-, south-west side 

- ward 



127, 142 

- 30 

- 148 

- 98 

- 132 
- 164, 165, 167 

- 53 

- 73 

- 90 

- 106 
91,119 

- 119 

- 116 

- 113 

- 138 

- 138 



Sandisbrae - - - 

Sandisend bay 

Sandistura, or the Score hohns 
Sand ness - - - 

Sandness hill 

. holm 

. kirk 

Sandside 

. point 

Mousa 

Sandsound voe 
Sandquoy bay 
Sandwick bay 
holm 



- 133 
92, 170 

- 72 

- 66 
65,66 
65,66 

- 66 

- 133 
163, 164 

8 

- 73 

- 106 

- 56 

- 32 



198 



INDEX. 



Sarva skerry 

Saya skerry 

Saverskail, or Wasboster bay 

- head 
Savil Green house -, 

— house - - - 
Savrock house 

Saxayord ... 
Scalloway - - - 

castle 

harbour - 

, anchorage 

» directions 

, tides 



Page 

- 30 
. 20 
. 125 

123, 125 

- Ill 
110, 111 

- 151 

- 50 
76, 78 

- 78 



middle channel - 

• anchorage 



- ness 

-, north channel 

-, south channel 



caution 



supplies - 



Scapa bay - 

Flow- 

: tide 

skerry 



Scar windmill 
Scaradale fiinnhouse 
Scarf 

skerry, Hoy sound 

,Uya - 

Scargun skerry 



buoy 



Scarp of Trondra - 
Scarpoe cottages 
Scat ness - 
Scathya, or Skuthyy bay 
Scaw 

bay - 

holm - 

roost - 

Score head - 
— holms 
Scot holm - 
Scotland, point of - 
Scroggs 
Scurvy skerry 
Seal, or Selch 
Bonaldsha 
skerry, £da 



78 
78 
78 
80 
79 
80 
77 
78 
79 
79 

- 78 

- 174 
- 167, 173, 177 

- 177 
174, 175 

- Ill 

- 162 
. 12 

165, 167 
. 44 

- 151 

- 151 

- 79 

- 47 

- 83 

- 106 

- 49 

- 49 

- 49 

- 49 

- 13 

- 72 

- 22 

- 12 

- 1^9 

- 77 



Seal skerry beacon 
Selie ness - 



skerry. North 

90, 103 
- 125 
>, Mainland, north - east 
side - . J48, 154 



voe - 



Setter ness . - - 

Seyeroch - - - 

Shald of Tongie 

. buoy 

Shapinsha, east and north sides 

-, north-west side - 

, south-west side - 

foot 

Gio - 127, 129, 

sound, or the String 

128, 

■ — directions - 

.i^— tides 



Sheep craig - - - 

Shell hohn - 

Shetland, climate, seasons - 

currents * 

, description 

, fog 

pilots . - 

, physical features of 

, •, weather, winds - 



Showbelly . - - 

Sillock baas 

Sinclair skerry 

Skabra head 

Skafha point 

Skail 

bay . - - 

Skate rocks 
Skaw holm - 

skerry 

Taing point - 

Skea point - - - 

skerries, Westra 

— — — ■ Yell sound - 
Skelda ness - - - 

• yoe - - - 

Skeldoquoy point - 
Skelwick - - - 

~ skerry 

Skerry - - - 

, Little 
-^— ^ sound 
Skertours 
Skibby baa - " 
Skielkirk - 
skerry - - - 



Page 

- 148 

- 60 

- 69 

- 33 
161, 152 

. 110 

- 110 

- 135 

- 148 

- 156 
92, 136 

136, 137 

135, 156 

- 158 

- 157 

5 
99 
2 
2 
1 
4 
4 
1 

- 3,4 
164, 167 

- 11 
. 169 

- 142 

- 101 

- 126 
89, 165 

- 52 

- 23 
. 24 

- 21 

- 121 
121, 127 

32,38 

- 71 

- 71 
169, 171 

- 101 

- 100 

- 12 

- 25 
169, 171 

- 147 

- 12 
133, 134 

- 133 



INDEX. 



199 



Skoetain^ 
Skok nes8 - 
Skokness holm 
Bound 



Skna-flaas 

Sknda Bound •» 

Skathvy "bay 

Sliga skeiTj 

Smoogrra or Swanbuster bay 

skerry 

Snaoka reef 

Snap point - 

■ ■•- rock - - - 

Snarra house 



ness 



peninsula 



voe - 



directioDB 



Snook point 
Soldian rock 
Sonso ness - 
Sound Gruna 



mansion 



Soundings round the Orkneys 
South bay - - - 

Clousta voe - 

- ' Mire house - 

ness, Bressay sound - 

Long Hope 



Bonaldsha island, 



85,91 
181, 



skerry or Gruna 

Walls 

Sower skerry 
Spo ness 
Spur ness - 
Spurness holms 

sound 

— -^^— ^ tide 

Staebank 

Staewick 

Stags 

Staugar head, Westra 

, Flota 

Stanyard rock 
Start light - 
— ^ point 
Stava ness - 
Stepping stones 
Still, the - 
Stom or Strom ness 
Stonr holm 



- 176, 

- 90, 93, 105, 
. 90, 95, 108, 



Page 

- 47 
. 126 

- 126 

- 126 

- 172 

- 45 

- 106 

30,83 

. 174 

- 174 

- 16 
23,89 

- 71 

- 63 

- 63 

- 68 

- 63 

- 63 

- 101 
11, 13 

- 61 
. 42 

- 74 

- 94 

- 104 

- 62 

- 141 
9, 10, 11 

- 180 

, 92, 172 
183, 184 

- 132 
179, 180 
165, 167 

- 101 

115, 138 

116, 188 

- 116 

- 116 

- 114 

- 114 

- 77 

- 100 
178, 180 

. 39 

108, 109 

109, 113 
. 18 
. 17 

7 

- 59 
81,33 



Stonra baa, Brother island • 

,Yell sound 
^ Vementf y sound 



reef - 
Stoye bay - 
Stow on Stowse head 
Strandbnrgh ness - 
Stranquoy Taing 
Stream sound 
String, the - 
Stroma 

Stromberry ness 126, 127, 186, 146, 148 
Strom ness. North Bonaldsha 104, 106 
, or point of ness, 160, 164, 166 



Page 
31,38 

29,38 
62 
62 

- 115 
. 92 
. 40 

188, 140 

. 80 

137, 156, 157, 158 

- 86 



Strom ness, Shetland 

Stronmess - 

— — — harbour - 

kirks 

voe 



- 75 

- 160 

- 160 
. 160, 164, 167 

- 75 
Stronsa, east side - - - 116 

, south and west sides - 129 

firth - 92, 121, 128, 137 



directions 
tides - 



Sulem voe - 
Sumburgh head 



light 

— — — roost 

-^— — ^— tides 

Sutter rock 

Swabe stack 

Swanbuster bay 

Swarbuck head 

— Min 

Swarf reef - - - 

Swarta skerry, Dourye voe - 
. , Gunnester voe 

■i Lunna ness - 

«-^— , Scalloway ness 

, Whalsey holms 
, Whalsey, N.W. side 

Swenee ness 

Swilkie point 

Swine holm, Gairsa 

— , Yell sound 

■ ■' - skerry 

Swining voe 

Switha channel 

^— — islet 

Swona island 



-, ebb eddy 



- 137 

- 137 

- 36 
6, 84, 94 

-6, 84 
7 

- 84 

- 116 

- 25 

- 174 

- 59 
. 59 

- 131 
. 19 

- 57 

- 27 

- 77 

- 21 
22 

47,48 

- 185 
145, 155 

- 32 
. 122 

34 

- 182 
180, 181 

177, 182,185,186 
182, 1821 



200 



INDEX. 



Swooa island, flood eddy - 
Symbister bay 

- mansion 
-^— ^ nesB, Bizetter roe 
, 'Wbalsey 



Page 
185 
20 
20 
78 
20 



Tafts boase - 
— nesB - 
Tsinga skerry 
Tanker ness - 
Tankerness ball 
reef 



- 106 
- 105, 106, 108 

- 147 
134, 185 

. 135 

- 184 

- 185 

- Ill 
153, 158 

- 153 



Tarftidl 

Temple ball 

Tbieves bolm 

Thurso - - - - 

l^des, Balta island - - - 

Bressay sound 

Burwick sound 

Calf sound . - - 

Eynhallow sound 

Fair isle - - - 

Fara ness sound 

Hillswick firth 

Holm sound . - - 

Howan sound 

Hoxa sound ... 

Hoy sound . - - 

Ijerwick - - - 

Lerwick to the Stepping Stones 

Lother rock, South Bonaldsba 

Magnus, St., bay 

North Bonaldsba firth 

island 



shoal 



Orkneys . 

Orkneys, north end - 

Otterswick 

Outer sound - 

Scalloway 

Scapa Flow - 

Shapinsha sound 

String, the 

Spumess sound 

Stronsa firth - 

Snmburgb head 

Swona 

Urphacy and Burra ness 

Uya sound 

Water sound 

Weatbemess sound 

West sound, Wbalsey 



48 

12 

167 

141 

146 

5 

125 

57 

171 

128 

178 

168 

12 

18 

183 

- 56 

- 110 
104, 105 

- 88 

- 95 
99 

- 112 

- 186 

- 80 

- 177 

- 157 
157, 158 

- 116 

- 137 

- 84 

- 186 
. 33 

- 45 

- 173 

- 125 

- 24 



•Kdes, Westra firth - 

, Widefirtb 

, Widewall 

, Wyre sound - 

, Yell sound 

Tinga skeny 
Tofts voe - 
Tonga bead 
Tor ness 
Torn ness - 
Torsker point 
— -, Taings of - 
Tosky reef 
Toy ness 
Toyness reef 
Trebister ness 
Tremlin point 
Tres ness - 
Tresness bay 
Tresta bay - 
Tretland point 
Trevan, baas of 
Trondra island 
Troswick ness 
Trunk, the - 
Tuo spit 
Tupsta skerry 
Tuquoy bay - 

point 

Turn ness - 
Twin ness - 
Twingas point 
rock 

Ultrabister house 
Under holm 
Tingle skerry 
Unicom reef 
Unst island - 
Urie firih - 

house 

• Linga island 

ness - 

— ^-^ mansion - 



Urka voe . - - 

Urphacy island - " z 

Usta ness . - - 

Uya baas - - - 

island - - - 

sound, Unst - 

, Vementry island 



Page 

- 128 

- 155 

- 183 

- 143 

- 33 
31, 33 

- 35 

- 44 

- 129 

- 108 

- 110 

106, 110 

- 114 

- 174 

- 174 

- 9 

142, 143 

90,114, 119, 120 

- 90, 113, 119 

39 

142, 143 

107, 109 
78, 80 

7 

- 110 

- 107 

51 

- 122 

- 122 

- 179 

45 
104, 122 

- 104 



- 29 
19,23 

- 21 

- 13 

1 

- 56 

- 57 
- 42 

- 42 

- 42 

- 36 

- 29 
75,76 

51, 52, 53 

1, 44, 53 

44, 45, 51 

- 61 



-, Yementiy West channel 54 



INDEX. 



201 



Uya sound, directions 
— — — , tides 
Uynarie islet 

Vaila island 

— — sound - 

— — ^— ^— directions 

— voe 

Vardy or Vardie storehouse 
Vasa point - 

— skerry 
— ^— — beacon 

— sound- 
— , directions 



Vatsetter head 

Ve ness 

— skerries - 

caution - 

Veantro bay 
Vementry island 
sound 



', directions - 



ward 



Vere reef - - - 

Vest ness - - - 

Vesta skerry 
Vidlon voe - - - 

directions 

Vigo farmhouse 

Voder rocks, Stepping Stones 

rock, Uya - 
Voe skerry - - - 

Voesgarth house 
Voes in Vementry sound - 



Yell sound 



Vongs 

Vordhill - , 
Voxter ness 

Wadbister point 
————voe 
Wael roost - 
Wald or Isbuster bay 
Walkmill bay 
Walls South 
War ness - 
Wamess skerry 
Ward hill hut 

holm 

Warebanks cottages 

87883. 



Page 

- 45 

- 80 

- 1,68 
. 69 

- 69 
69,70 

- 127 
. 148 

- 148 

- 148 
148, 154 

- 155 

- 41 
130, 182, 139, 174 

59, 64, 67 

- 65 

- 186 

- 1,61 

- 61 
. 62 

- 61 

- 46 
100, 102 

- 51 

- 26 

- 26 
. 168 

- 17 
44, 45 

- 26 

- 48 

- 62 
- directions 62 

83, 38 

- 25 

- 39 

- 37 

- 13 
15, 16 

145, 146 

- 160 

- 174 
180, 181 

125, 127, 132, 137 

- 132 

- 131 

- 170 
. 177 



Warebanks point - 
Ward holm, Westra 

, Copinsha 
Wasbuster bay 

' skerry - 

Wasetter fiEUfmhouse 

■ house 

Water, Long Hope - 

-, Scapa Flow - 

sound 

'., directions 
, tide - 
Waterhouse holm - 
Watswick bay 
Watts ness - 
Weather holm 

, baa of 



ness 



Weathemess sound - 

Weddel sound 

Wedder holm 

Weir, or Wyre island 

West Bow, Swona - 

Burra island - 

Burrafirth voe 

__ directions 

Fladdecap - - - 

hill house - . - 

NeapofFetlar 

ness - - - - 

sound, Whalsey - 

•~ caution - 



., Vaila 



voe 



Westdale voe 



of Lunna 



directions 



Westness bay 
West-shore ness 
West skerries 
— — ^— Burra 
Wester holm 
Westra, east side - 
— — -, north side - 

, south-west side 

firth 

directions and cautions 127 



Page 

- 170 
122, 128 

- 138 

- 125 

- 122 

- 115 
-130,181,188 

- 181 

- 173 
- 170, 172, 173 

- 172 

- 178 

- 56 

- 43 
65, 67, 79 

- 30 

- 23 

- 100 

- 123 

- 176 

- 43 
. 142 

- 185 
78, 80 

- 63 
63 
17 

148 
40 

146 
23 
24 

- 69 
6, 7, 84 

- 34 

- 74 

- 75 

- 142 

- 78 

- 149 

- 80 

- 22 

- 100 

- 98 

- 121 
121-128 



roosts - 
tides 



Westra, Noup of 
Wethesta ness 



- 128 

- 128 
- 98, 121, 122 

- 60 

Q 



202 



IKDEX. 



Wlial point - 
Whaleback skerry 
Wbalefirth Yoe 
WKalsey holms 

island 

kirk 

sound 



107, 



-, directions - 



-Ward 



Wliitekall farmhonse 
Wkitemill point 
White nes» - 
Whiteness voe 
Wick holms 
Widefirth - 

, anchorages 

, directions 

■ — , tides 



-163, 



135, 146, 



Wideford hill 
Widewall harbour - 

■ , caution - 

— , directions 

, tides 



Page 
112,138 

- 77 

- 52 

- 20 

- 1,20 

- 24 

- 2,23 

- 23 
13,20 

- 117 

- 107 

- 69 

- 76 

- 43 
146-155 

- 151 
154, 155 

- 155 
180, 184 

- 182 

- 182 

- 183 

- 182 



Widewall village 
Willy Whites rock - 
Windwick - 
Wing head - 
Woodwick - 
Work head - 
Wrath cape - 
Wyre, or Weir island 
■ ■ ' skerries 

■ sound 

■■ tides 

Yell baa - 

island - 

linga - • 

sound - 

, directions 



caution 



-, ferry 
-, tides 



Yensta bay - 
— head 
skerry 



Page 

- 182 

- 78 

- 93 

- 183 

- 144 
148, 157 

- 93 

- ^42 
146, 143 
142, 143 

- 143 

29,33 

- 1,52 

- 43 
2, 28, 38 

. 32 
32,53 

- 35 

- 33 

- 157 

- 157 

- 157 






I