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TONVERSATION, in four languages. 3 marks
NORWAY, SWEDEN,
AND
DENMARK
Money Table.
(Couip. p. xi.)
s.
d.
kr.
0.
kr.
0.
t.
d.
1
—
—
90
I
—
1
i'/a
2
—
1
80
2
—
2
22/3
3
—
2
70
3
—
3
4
4
—
3
60
4
—
4
5'/3
5
—
4
50
5
—
5
6^3
6
—
5
40
6
—
C
8
7
—
G
30
7
—
7
9V3
8
—
7
20
8
—
8
lO'Va
9
—
8
10
9
—
10
—
10
—
9
—
10
—
11
I'/s
20
■-
18
-
18 1 -
20
Measures.
(Cump. p. vi.)
KuglisL
Metres
Nurweg.
Swedish
Fnti;lislj
Kilo-
Niirwet;.
Feet
Feet
Feet
Miles
metres
Miles
0,97
0,29
0,94
1
0-02
1
0.„9
1
0,30
0,97
1,02
1
1.009
0,1424
l,(«!l
0,31
1
1,05
2
3.218
0,28
2
0,cil
1,S4
2,05
3
4.827
l"-.«
3
0,.,i
2,9,
3,08
4
6.436
0,57
3,.^
I
3,, 9
3,37
5
8.045
0,71
4
I,..
3,88
4,10
0
96.54
0,85
fi
1,5-^
4,85
5,13
C,(i4
1U.US3
0,94
U
1,83
5,82
0,10
7
11.263
1
7
2,,3
t>,«u
7,18
8
12.872
l,u
8
2,^4
7,77
8,21
9
14.481
1,28
9
2,74
8,74
9,24
10
10.090
1,42
10
3,06
9,71
10,20
14
22.526
2
M
15,24
48,:,,
51,30
20
32.18(J
2,85 •
4
lOU
30,48
97,14
1U2,65
21
33.789
3
/ 1
f
o
"'"^" T^-'^f^
0 » > iCV-j
■""?%!
- ^ x'^
1 S /V
i
NORWAY, SWEDEN,
AND
DENMARK
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
HY
KARL BAEDEKER
WITH 37 MAPS, 11 PLANS, AND THREE PANORAafAS
EIGHTH EDITION
Rkviskp and Auomknttp
LEIPSIC: KARL BAEDEKEH, PUBLISHER
1903
All Bighln reserved
'Go, little book, God send thee good passage,
And specially let this be thy prayere:
Unto them all that thee will read or hear,
Where thou avt wrong, after their help to call,
Thee to correct in any part or all.'
- H
PEEFACE. B(3
— rio3
1 he object of the Handbook for Norway, .Sweden, and
Denmark, which now appears for the eighth time, carefully
revised and partly rewritten, is to supply information regard-
ing the most interesting scenery and characteristics of these
countries, witli a few notes on the history, languages, and
customs of the inhabitants. Like the Editor's other hand-
books, it is based on personal acquaintance with the countries
described, the chief places in which he has visited repeatedly.
His efforts to secure the accuracy and completeness of the
work have been supplemented by the kind assistance of sev-
eral gentlemen, Norwegian, Swedish , Danish, English, and
German, to whom his best thanks are due. He will also grate-
fully receive any corrections or suggestions with which trav-
ellers may favour him. Within the last few years Norway has
grown rapidly in popularity with the travelling public, and a
number of new roads, railways, and steamboat-routes, with
corresponding new hotels, have recently been opened. The
most important of these are carefully noted in the present
edition. It should be noted that the data concerning means
of communication generally refer to the summer-service onl}';
before mid -June and after August travelling facilities,
especially on the fjords and lakes, are much more limited.
Th(^ present volume, like Baedeker's Switzerland, may
be used either as a whole, or in its separate sections, which
for the convenience of travellers may be removed from the
volume without falling to pieces. These sections are — (I)
Introductory Part, pp. i-lxxxii; (2) S. and E. Norway, as far
as Trondhjem, pp. 1 to 8G ; (3) W. Norway, as far as Trond-
hjem, pp. S7 to 228 ; (4) N. Norway, pp. 229 to 270 ; (5) Sweden,
pp. 271 to 4(14; f«) Denmark, pp. 40.5 to 450; (7) Index, pp.451
to 486 ; (8) Grammars, at the end of the volume.
On the Maps and Plans the Editor has bestowed special
care, and he believes they will be found to suffice for all
ordinary travellers.
In the letter-press Heights are given approximately in
English feet, in the maps in metres (I metre = 3.28 Engl. ft. ;
1 Norw. ft. = 1.029 Engl. ft. ; 1 Swed. ft. = 0.974 Engl. ft.).
Distances are given in kilometres, as the tariffs for carioles
and boats are now calculated on the metric system (comp.
p. vi). The Populations and other statistics are from the
most recent official sources.
vi ABBREVIATIONS.
In the Handbook are enumerated both the first-chiss hotels
and those of humbler pretensions. The asterisks indicate
those hotels which the Editor has reason to believe from his
own experience, as well as from information supplied by
numerous travellers, to be respectable, clean, reasonable,
and fairly well provided with the comforts and conveniences
expected in an up-to-date establishment. Houses of a more
primitive character, when good of their class, are described
as 'fair' or 'very fair'. At the same time the Editor does not
doubt that comfortable quarters may occasionally be obtained
at inns which he has not recommended or even mentioned.
Although prices generally have an upward tendency, the
average charges stated in the Handbook will enable the trav-
eller to form a fair estimate of his expenditure.
To hotel-keepers , tradesmen, and others the Editor begs
to intimate that a character for fair dealing towards trav-
ellers forms the sole passport to his commendation, and that
iidvertiseraents of every kind are strictly excluded from his
Handbooks. Hotel-keepers are also warned against persons
representing themselves as agents for Baedeker's Handbooks.
Abbreviations. Distances.
Com., Kom. = "Norges Communi-
cationer" and "Sveriges Koinmuni-
kationer" respectively (see p. xviii).
E., B., D., S.,L.,A. = room, breakfast,
dinner, supper, light, attendance.
R. also = Route.
Efmts. = refreshments.
c, ca. = circa, about.
Kr., 0. = crowns and 0Te in Norway
and Denmark.
6. = ore, the Swedish form of 0re.
N., S., E., W. = north, northern;
south, southern ; east, eastern ; west,
western.
M. = English mile, unless the con-
trary is stated (see Table opposite
title-page).
S. M. = Norwegian sea-mile.
Kil. = Kilometre (see Table oppo-
site title-page).
Ft. = English feet.
As the metric system has been adopted in both Norway and Sweden,
the Distances are usually given in kilometres, though the old reckoning
by miles is still common in some parts of Norway, one Norwegian mile
(= 7 Engl. M ) being reckoned as 3 hrs.' walking or 2 hrs.' driving. In
Sweden distances are occasionally calculated in 'new' Swedish miles (1 ny
svensk Mil = 10 Kil. = 61/4 Engl. M.); the old Swedish mile is about
1/2 Engl. M. longer. On railway -routes the distances are generally reckoned
from the starting-point, while on highroads the distances from station to
station are given as more convenient.
On the steamboat-rontes the distances are given approximately in Nor-
wegian sea-miles (S. M.) or nautical miles. A Norwegian nautical mile is
equal to four English knots ornautical miles (about 4Vs Engl, statute M.),
and the steamers are usually timed to travel from 2 to 2'/2 Norwegian
nautical miles per hour. The ordinary tariff is 40 0. per nautical mile,
but no charge is made for deviations from the vessel's direct course.
Asterisks (*) are used as marks of commendation. The letter d, with
a date, after the name of a person , indicates the year of his death. The
number of feet given after the name of a place show."? its height above
the sea-level.
CONTENTS.
Introduction.
Page
I. Expenses. Money. Language. Passports. Post Office xi
II. Steamboat Lines between Great Britain and Norway,
Sweden, and Denmark. Yachting Cruises. Tourist
Agents xii
HI. Season and Plan of Tour xiv
IV. Conveyances. Walking Tours. Cycling Tours . . . xviii
V. Luggage. Equipment. Tourist Clubs xxiv
VL Hotels and Inns xxv
VII. Sport xxvii
Vlll. Maps. Books xxix
IX. Names and their Meanings xxx
X. On the Physical Geography of Scandinavia .... xxxii
Situation, (geological Formatiim. Coast Line xxxii
Mountains, Lakes, and Rivers xxxvii
Climate and Vegetation xxxix
Animal Kingdom xlii
Population xliii
XI. History of Sweden and Norway xliv
Outlines of Norwegian (Danisb) and Swedish Grammars,
at the end of the volume.
Norway.
SoUTllEKN AND EaSTKUN NoRWAY, AS FAll AS TllONJJHJBM.
Koutc
1. Christiansand and the Saetcrsdal 2
From Christiansand to Cliristiania 6
'2. Cdiristiania and I'lnvirons 0
3. From Christiania to the Handsfjord via Draninien and
Haujisiind '22
4. From (Christiania) Haugsund to the Hardanger Fjord via
KoiiKsbcrg and the Kjukanfos 27
5. From Christiania to the Hardanger Fjord via Skien, the
Telemarken Canal, and the Haukelifjeld 33
6. From Kongsberg to the Hardanger Fjord through the
Nuniedal 42
7. From Christiania through the Hallingdal to Laerdalseren
on the Sognefjord (Bergen) 44
8. From Christiania through the Valders to Laerdalscrcn on
the Sognefjord 50
9. From Christiania through the Gndbrandsdal to Stryn on
the Nordfjord, Marok on the Gcirangcr Fjord, or Aandals-
na;8 on the Komsdals Fjord t'O
viii CONTENTS.
Route Page
10. From Doniaas in tlie Gudbrandsdal over the Dovrei'jeld
to Stt»rcn (Trondhjem) 71
11. From Christiania to Trondhjem by Railway 74
12. From Christiania by Railway to Charlottenberg (and
Stockholm! 78
13. From Christiania to Gotenbiirg by Railway 79
14. From Christiania to Gotcnburg by Sea 84
Western Nokway, as far as Trondhjem.
16. From Christiansand to Stavanger by Sea. The Stavanger
Fjord 89
16. From Sand (Stavanger) by the Suldalsvand to Odde on
the Ha rdanger Fjord 96
17. From Stavanger to Bergen by Sea 99
18. The Hardanger Fjord 101
19. Bergen 115
'20. From Bergen via Vosscvangen to the Hardanger Fjord
or to the Sognetjord 123
21. The Sognefjord 130
22. Jotunheim 146
23. From Bergen to Aalesund and Moldc by Sea 175
24. From the Sognefjord to the Nordfjord 178
26. The Nordfjord. Oldendal, Loendal, Strynsdal 182
26. From the Nordflord to Aalesund and Molde 190
27. Molde and the Moldefiord 204
28. From Molde to Trondhjem 214
29. Trondhjem and its Fjord 219
Northern Norway.
30. From Trondhjem to Bode 233
31. The Lofoten Islands 243
32. From Bod0toTroms0 248
33. From Tromse to the North Cape . . . . 254
34. From the North Cape to Vadse 262
35. Syd-Varanger 266
36. From the Altenfjord to Haparanda in Sweden 267
37. From Hammerfest to Spitzbergen 268
Sweden.
38. Malmo and Southern Skane 272
39. From Malmo to Nassjo (and Stockholm) via Lund . . . 276
40. From Alfvesta to Karlskrona and Kalmar via Vexio. Oland 279
From Oskarshamn to Nassjo 282
41. From (Copenhagen) Helsingborg to Gotenburg .... 283
42. Gotenburg 287
CONTENTS. ix
Kiiute Page
43. Fmni (idtoiiburf; to Vciiersboifi. Lake Vciieni. Weiteni
Ciiita Canal '292
44. From Colenburg to Katriiioluilm ( ami Stockliulm) . . . 290
45. From Niissjo to Jonkiipiiig and Falkiiping 301
40. From Jonkitping to Stockholni by Lake Vettern and the
IDastern GiJta Canal 303
47. From Niissjij to Stockholm 307
48. From (Christiania and) Charlottcnbcrg to Laxa (and
Stockholm) 312
49. Stockholm 314
50. Environs of Stockholm 347
51. From .Stockholm to Upsala 354
52. The Island of Gotland 3r3l
53. From Stockholm to Vestcras and Orehro 367
54. From Kolback and Valskog to Flen, Nykciping, and Oxelo-
sund 370
55. From Gotenburg to Falun 371
56. From Stockholm to Lake Siljan via Borlange (Falun) . . 375
57. From Upsala via Gefle to Ockelbo (Brackc, Ostersund) . 378
58. From Stockholm via Upsala, Ockelbo, and Bracke to Oster-
sund, Storlien, and Trondhjem 379
59. From Ange to Sundsvall 386
60. From Bispgarden to Sundsvall by the Indals-Elf . . . 387
61. From Briicke to I^ulea 388
62. From Stockholm to Sundsvall and Hernosaud by Sea (Lu-
lea, Haparanda) 391
63. I'rom Hernosaud to SoUeftea via the Angerman-Elf . . 393
64. From Sundsvall and Hernosaud to Lulea by Sea (Hapa-
randa) 395
65. From Lulea to Kvickjock 397
66. From Lulea to GcUivara (Narvik) 400
67. From Lulea to Haparanda by Sea 403
Denmark.
68. Copenhagen and its Environs 405
69. From Copenhagen to Helsinger and Helsingborg .... 433
70. Bornholm 439
71. From Copenhagen to Hamburg, by the Danish Islands
and Sleswick 440
72. From Odense to Svendborg, Langeland, Laaland, Falster,
and Meen 443
73. From Fredericia to Frederikshavn. Jutland 445
74. From Aalborg on the Limfjord to Thistcd and via Viborg
to Langaa 449
Index 451
X PLANS AND MAPS.
Flans and Maps.
C'oMj). (he Key Map at llie End of the Book. — The marks (•, ••, o. oo,
etc.) on the margins of the Special Maps indicate the points tvhere Ihey join
the adjacent Special Maps.
Plans: 1. Aalesund (1:17,500). — 2. Ber^ere (1 : 20,000). — 3. Chriftia7tia
(i : 20,000). — 4. Christiansand (1 ; 30,000). — 5. Copenhagen (1 : 34,000),
6. Copeiihagen. inner town (1 : '-'0,000) — 7. Drammeii (1 : 20,000). — 8. Fredriks-
hald (1:15,000). —9. Gotenburg (1:21,500). — 9a. Slottskog Park, near Goten-
burg (1 : lS,.50O). — 10. Helsingor (1:32,000). — 11. Jonkiiping (i : 50,000). —
12. Lund (1:20,000). — 18. MalmS (1:80,000). - 14. Molde (1:17,500). —
16. Sarpsborg (1:21,100). — 16. Skansen (open-air museum; 1:5370). —
17. Staianger (1 : 15,800). — 18. Stockholm (1 : 15,000). — 19. Trondhjem
(1:50,000). — 20. Upsala (1:20,000). - 21. Wisby (1:15,000).
Maps.. 1. South Norway (1:2,000,000): before the title-page.
2. Environs of Christiania (1:80,0(X)): p. 18.
3. District between ChiHHinnia., KoAgsberg, and Lake Krederen (1 : 500,000) :
p. 22,
4. North relemarken (1:500,000): p. 23.
5. Sovth Telemnrken (1:500,000): p. 34.
6. HallingchiU (tnd V/ilders (1 : 50t),000) : p. 46.
7. Krederen, Ilwu/sfjwd, and Vftlders (1 : 500,000> : p. 50.
8. Southirn Gudbrandsdal (l:500,C00j: p. 62.
9. Northern Gtidbrandsdal, Ottadal (1 : 500,000) : p. 66.
10. Stavanger Fjord (1 : 500,000) : p. 92.
11. Outer Har danger Fjord (1:500.000): p. ICO.
12. Inner Hardanger Fjord (1:500,000): p. 102.
13. Hardanger Vidda (1:500,000): p. 112.
14. Environi of Bergen (1:100,000): p. 116.
15. Vis'rict from Bergen to Voss (1:500,000): p. 124.
16. Central Part of the Sognefjord (1:500,000): p. 130.
17. Inner Sogne.fjord (1 : 500,000) : p. 140.
18. Jolunheim (1 : 500 000) : p. 146.
19. The Horunger (1 : ;00,000) : p. 155.
20. Sendfjord ( 1 : .500,000) : p. 178.
21. Nordfjord and Southern Seindmere (1 : 500,(XMJ) : p 1^:2.
22 Sfrun-Geiranger-Grotlid-Polfos and TafjordJostedal Region
(1:500,000): p. 191).
23. Northern Smidmare and Molde (or RomsdaU) Fjord ( I : .500,000) : p. 204.
24. 25. North-West and North Coast of Norway (1 : 1, -500,000):
1st Sheet: Trondhjeni-Torghatten-Boda-Lofoten: p 232.
2ud Sheet: Tromse-North-Cape-Vadse: p. 248.
2B. Estuary of the Gota-Elf (i:iQO. 000): p. 291.
27. rroWtatta Falls (1:10,000 and 1:25,000): p. 293.
28. The Kinnekulle (1 : 155,000j : p. 297.
29. Ujvrgard near Stockholm (1:25,000): p. 344.
30. Environs of Stockholm (1:100,000), with in.?et-map <pf Djursholm
(1:50,000):" p. 348.
31. The Saltsjo from Molna to Varhohn, to the E. of Stoi-kholm
(1:100,000), with inset-map of Saltsjobaden (1:50,000): p. 3-50.
32. North Sweden (1:2,750,000): p. 3?8.
33. Denmark and Sleswick (1:2,400,000): p. 404.
34. Northern Environs of Copenhagen (1:100,000), with iusel-niaps of
Lyngby-Furese and Hillered-Fredensborg (1: 1.50,000j : p. 434.
35. Shores of the Sound (1:500,000): p. 438.
36. South Sweden (1 : 2,0: 0,000) : after the Index.
37. Key Map of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, showing; the special
Maps of the Handbook; at the end of the book.
Panoramas from the Stugiin0se (p. 57), the Skinegg (p. 162), and the
Moldehei (p. 205).
INTRODUCTION.
I. Expenses. Money. Language. Passports. Post Office.
Expenses. Travelling in Norway and Sweden is less expensive
in some respects than in other parts of Europe, hut the great dis-
tances which require to be traversed by road and rail or by steamboat
necessarily involve a very considerable sum-total. After arrival in
the country, 20-26?. per day ought to cover all outlays, but much
less -will suffice for those who make a prolonged stay at one or more
resting-places, or for pedestrian tourists (p. xxii) in the less fre-
quented districts.
Money. In 1873 and 1875 the currency of the three Scandina-
vian kingdoms was assimilated. The crown (krone; Swed. krona),
worth Is. i^/zd., is divided into 100 ere (Swed. ore; see money
table before the title-page). These coins and the government
banknotes (but not those of local or of private banks) are current
throughout the three countries. British sovereigns, worth 18 kr.
each, usually realise their full value at the principal centres of
commerce, hut the rate of exchange is often a few ere below par.
Large sums are best carried in the form of circular notes or letters
of credit, as issued by the chief British and American banks. The
traveller should be well supplied with small notes and coins (smaa
Penge) before starting on his tour, as it is often difficult in the
remoter districts to get change for gold or larger notes.
Language. English is spoken on board almost all the Nor-
wegian steamboats and at the principal resorts of travellers, both
in Norway and Sweden, but in the country-districts the vernac-
ular alone is understood. Danish, as pronounced in Norway ( which
is analogous to English spoken with a broad Scottish accent), is on
the whole the more useful of the two languages, as most travellers
devote more time to Norway than to Sweden, and as it is easily
understood in Sweden. (See grammars and vocabularies in the
removable cover at the end of the volume.)
Passports are unnecessary, except for the purpose of procuring
delivery of registered letters. — The Custom Hoxise Examination
is invariably lenient. The duty on cigars is 6 kr. per kilogram
(2l/'5lbs.) and that on spirits is 2 kr. 40 e. per litre; but a kilo-
gram of the former or an unsealed bottle of the latter is allowed
to pass duty-free. In the matter of customs Sweden and Norway
treat each other as foreign countries (comp. p. 312).
Post Office. The postage of a letter, weighing 1/2 oz-, is 20 ere
to any country in the Postal Union, and of a post-card (Brefkort, Brev-
kort) 10 0.; that of a letter within Norway or Sweden IO0., within
xii II. STEAMBOAT LINES.
Denmark 8 e. The traveller should avoid giving his correspondents
any poste reslante address other than steamboat or railway stations,
as the communication with places off the heaten track is very slow.
Telegraph Offices are numerous in proportion to the population.
Norwegian Tariff. Within Norway: 50 0. for ten words, and 5 0.
for each word more. — P'orcign telegram.s (minimum 80 0.) : to Sweden
30 0., in addition to which each word i.? charged 10 0.; to Denmark 50 0.,
plus 10 0. for each word; to Great Britain 26 0. per word; to the U.S.A.
1 kr. 35 0. to 2 kr. 5 0. per word.
Swedish Tariff. Within Sweden : 50 o. for ten words, and 5 o, for
each word mure. — Foreign telegrams: to Norway or Denmark 80 ci. for
Jive words, 10 0. each word more; to Great Britain 1 kr. 30 6. for three
word.', 30 (i. each wurd more ; to the U.S.A., about the .same a.s from Norway.
Telephones are very general throughout the country, and are of
importance to the tourist, especially in Norway and the Swedish
Norrland, as they afford a means of securing rooms, etc., in ad-
vance. The usual charge for the use of a telephone is IO0. or a
little more.
II. Steamboat Lines between Great Britain and Norway, Sweden,
and Denmark. Yachting Cruises. Tourist Agents.
Steamboat Lines. The following particulars as to the chief
lines of steamers between British and Scandinavian ports refer to
the summer-arrangements (May to August inclusive) ; but travellers
are recommended in all cases to obtain precise information from
the agents or advertisements of the various steamship-companies.
The fares quoted include the charge for provisions on the voyage
except where it is otherwise stated. The winter-rates are often
considerably lower. — 'Boat-trains' run from London in connection
with the steamers from Hull, Grimsby, Newcastle, and Harwich.
Steamers to Norwat.
To Christiania. (1). From London, 'Wilson Line' every alternate Frid.
in 56 hrs. (fares 5/. 13s., 31. 10«., return 81., 51. iOs.; food Gs. Qd. or 4s. (id.
per day according to class). — (2). From HtiU, 'Wilson Line' every Frid.
in 46hr.s. (fares Al. 15«., 3/. 5s., return 11. 10s., bl.). — (3). From Newcaslle-
on-Tyne. S.S. 'Sterling' and 'Prospero', every Frid. in about 52 hrs. (32. 3«.,
return 5/. 5s.).
To Christiansand. Nearly all of the above-mentioned steamers (fare.?
as to Christiania); duration of voyage from Hull 32 hrs., from London
44 bi-s. Also: from Leilh , 'Leith, Hull, and Hamburg Co.' every Thurs.
in 34 hrs. (3l. 3s.; return bl. bs.); returning on Friday.
To Bergen. (1) From Hull, 'Wilson Line' every Tues. in 36 hrs. (il.
10s., 31., return 11., il. iOs.), returning on Saturday. — (2). From Newcastle,
'Bergenske and Nordenfjeldske Cos.' every Tues., Thurs., & Sat. in 31-40 hrs.
(1st cl. il., return 81.). — These steamers, except the Tues. boat from
Newcastle, touch at Stavanger (same fares).
To Trondhjem. (1). From Hull, 'Wilson Line' every Thurs. in
65 hrs. (6;. K's., il. is., return 9Z. 15s., Gl.Gs), returning the following
Thursday. — (2). From I/'ewcasfle, 'Bergenske and Nordenfjeldske Cos.' every
Tues., via Bergen (see above; through-fare 61. IOs., retxirn dl. lbs.).
Steamers to Sweden.
To Gotenburg. (1). From London (Tilbury), 'Thule Line' every Frid.
(returning every Thurs.) in 40-45 hrs. {31. 3s., 2l. 2s. ; food 6«. 6d. or is. 6d.
II. STEAMBOAT LINES. xlii
per day); return-tickets (bl. 5i., 3l. 'is.) are available also via Granton (see
below) or by the 'VVilsun Line' via Hull. -- ('2). J-'rom Hull, 'Wilsun Line"
evei-y Sat. (roturiiin;; every Frid.) in 36-10 hrs. (fares Al., '21. lbs.; return-
fares 7/., 4/. 6s.). — (3). From Orimsby, 'Wilson Line' every Wed. (returning
tUe following Wed.) in 40 hrs. (same fares). — (4). From Grunion (Edin-
burgh), 'Thule Line' every Frid. (same fares).
To Kalmb. From Grimsby, 'Wilson Line' everv Tues., I'eturning every
Thurs., in about 60 hrs. (2;. 15s.. U. 10». ; first-class return il. 10*.).
To Stockholm. From London, 'Wilson Line' every Sat. ; also 'Stock-
holm Steamship Co.'. via ilalmii, about every ten days.
Steamers to Denmauk.
To Copenhagen. (1). From London, 'Bailey and Leetham Line' every
Sun. in about 3 days (2l. Ws., il. 10s. ; meals 5-6«. per day). — (2). From
Null, Wilson Line' every 3Ion. or Frid. in 60 hrs. (1st cl. 21. Ws., excl.
food; 2nd cl. il. ."«.. incl. food); 'Finland Steamship Co.', every Wed.,
toiiihiug at Helsiugfors, and everv alternate Sat , touching at Abo (fares
21. U)s.. il. iOs.; return-ticket SI. 15«., 21. 5s ; food 5-6«. per day). — (3). From
Leith, James Currie ii Co.', via Chri.stianaand , every Thurs., in 51 hrs.
(3/. Zs., il. lis. 6rf. ; 1st cl. return-ticket bl. 5s.); returning every Thursday.
To Esbjerg. (1). From iTrtrunc/;, 'United S.S. Co. of Copenhagen' every
3Ion., Thurs., & Sat. (returning Tues., Wed., & Sat.) in 25 hra. (U. 10s.,
15*., 1st cl. return -ticket 2;. 5s.; food 5s. per day in the ist cl., and
2s. per day in the 2nd cl.). — (2). B'rom Grimsbij , 'United S.S. Co. of
Copenhagen' (in connection with 'Great Central Railway') every Mon. and
Thurs. (returning every Tue.s. and Frid.) in 33 hrs. (1/. 10s., los. ; return-
ticket 21. OS , il. 10s. ; food extra).
The majority of travellers to Norway will probably flml the ex-
cellent steamers of the ' Wilson Line' ( Thos. Wilson, Sons, 4' Co., Hull)
or of the 'Bergenske and Nordenfjeldske Cos.' {P. H. Mattldessen cj- Co.,
25 Queen St., Newcastle; Messrs. Bery-Hansen if- Co., Christiania)
the most convenient. The last-named company (or, rather, combined
companies) also maintains an excelU'iit service between Norway and
Hamburg, for which return-tickets from Newcastle are abo available.
Esbjerg (p. 449) has direct railway-connection with Copenhagen
and with Gotenburg via Frcdericia andFrederikshavn (R. 73). The
(ierman mail-steamers plying twice daily in each direction between
Kiel and Korsor (p. 441) in 5 hrs. (fares 11 ..// 30, 4 .7/ 50 pf. )
and between Wurnemunde and Gjedser (p. 441) in 2 hrs. may also
bo mentioned.
Yachting Cruises. Large and comfortable excursion-steamers
are despatched at frequent intervals duriim the season from British
ports to the Norwegian tjords, Bergen, Troudhjem , the North
Cape, etc. The vessels (1000-4000 tons ) are lu.xuriously fitted up
for the comfort and amusement of their passengers, and follow a
fixed itinerary at an inclusive charge, full details of which may be
obtained from the various agents. These so-called yachts undonbt-
edly offer the most comfortable means of visiting some of the finest
districts of Norway. They penetrate into the chief fjords, and tho
passengers have opportunities from time to time of making ex-
cursions on land. But this method of visiting Norway inevitably
misses many of the peculiar beauties of the country. A prolonged
residence on board one of these floating hotels is apt to prove mono-
xi^ III. SEASON AND PLAN OF TOUR.
tonous and enervating, and is certain to leave the passenger's mind
almost a blank \vith regard to the true charms of Norwegian travel.
The complaint sometimes heard, that even the grandest scenery In
Norway is somewhat monotonous, is rarely made by any but tourists
on these pleasnre-steamers who have not had time to become prop-
erly acquainted with the country.
Tourist Agents. The tourist-offices of Messrs. T. Cook ^ Son,
Messrs. Henry Gaze <S- Sons, and Dr. Lunn, in London, and those
of T. Bennett ^' Sons and of F. Beyer, at Christiania and Bergen,
issue railway , steamboat, Skyds (or posting) , and hotel coupons
for a number of different routes. Those unused are received back
under deduction of 10 per cent of their cost. This system saves
trouble at a corresponding sacrifice of independence. As a general
rule it is advisable not to fix one's route absolutely before leaving
London, but to wait until Christiania or Bergen is reached. 'The
Norway Tourist's "Weekly News', which often contains information
of considerable importance to tourists , is published by Beyer at
Bergen, and is to be seen at many hotels.
III. Season and Plan of Tour.
Season. The best season for travelling, both in Norway and
Sweden, is from the beginning of June to the middle of September;
but July and August are the best months for the higher mountains,
where snow is apt to fall both earlier and later. For a voyage to the
North Cape (RR. 30-34), for the sake of seeing the midnight sun,
the season is from the middle of June to the end of July. August
is often a rainy month in the eastern districts of Norway, while
the wet season sets in later on the west coast.
Plan of Tour. An energetic traveller may see the chief points
of interest in Norway and Sweden in 21/2-3 months, but an ex-
haustive tour cannot be accomplished in one season.
Those who have devoted a first visit to obtaining a general idea
of the country, may well spend one or more subsequent seasons in
the exploration of particular districts. The less time and energy
spent in covering long distances between point and point, the greater
will be the enjoyment of the districts visited.
It need hardly be added that travellers who are addicted to
luxurious hotels and the distractions of watering-places and other
fashionable resorts will not find Norway to their taste. On the other
hand, true lovers of nature will carry away with them an enthusiastic
admiration for its scenery, and will gladly seek opportunities of
renewing their impressions.
Tourists who content themselves with a Yachting Cruise along
the coast have, of course, their travelling-plan determined by the
programme of the steamer. Most travellers, however, will find it much
more satisfactory to form plans for independent tours for themselves,
and we therefore give a few specimens below, which may easily be
III. PLAN OP TOUR. XV
altered with the help of the Handbook or extended by the inclusion of
excursions from the main track, etc.
The finest scenery in Norway lies on the W. coast, the chief
points being the Hardanger Fjord, Sognefjord, Nordfjord, Send-
mere, Molde, and Eomsdal. The Jotunheim, to the E. of the Sogne-
fjord, is recommended to the attention of mountaineers. The voyage
to the Norrland, the ohief attraction of which is the Lofoten Is-
lands, is also very fine. The beautiful town of Christkmia is well
worthy of a visit.
In the S. of Sweden the chief attractions are Stockholm and
the other towns and the gx^&t Canals. Whby, with its mediaeval
ruins, is well worth visiting. The Swedish Norrland is inferior to
the W. coast of Norway in point of grandeur of scenery , but its
beautiful coasts, its lakes and rivers, including the justly famed
Indals-Elf and Angerman-Elf, and its waterfalls, among which are
the largest in Europe, richly repay a visit. OelUvara, with its mid-
night sun and iron-mines, is also very interesting. Not the least
charm of the Norrland journey is its freedom from the usual crowd
of hurried tourists.
I. Round Trip of Ten or Eleven Weeks. DavS
From Hull or Newcastle to Siavaiiger . 2
Fmm Stavanger by steamer on t\iii Huldalsvand (p. 96) aud thence
drive to the Breifond Hotel (p. 97) 2
l>i'ive frtim the Breifonil Hotel -via. Seljestad to Oddi; on the Serfjord 1
[This route may be joined at Odde by travellers from Christiania
via Daltii and Ttlemavken (comp. \>. xvi) 5-15]
Excursions from Odde to the iJt/ar6j-<e and \\\a Skjwggedahfos (\i. 18);
steamer from Odde to Vik i Eidfjoid 2'/-.'
Excursions from Vik to the Verimjsfos and the Simodal (R. 18);
steamer to Snndal on the Maiivangerfjord 2-3
Kxcursion from Sundal 1o the Bimdhusbra: or the Folgefond (K. IS);
steamer to Bergen 1
Bergen (ii. 19) I
I This route may be joined nt Bergen by steamer from Hull or New-
castle in 2 days.]
From Berj;en by rail to Voss ; drive thence to ihe. StalheiniskUv {M. 2^) 1
Drive or walk to Qudvaiigen; steamer across the Sognefjord to Fjwr-
land and Balholm (p. 133) and thence to Vadheim (p. 132) ... 1
ITliose who drive to visit Jutnnheim (It. 22) frimi the Hognetjord may
take the steamer from Oudvangeu to lAirdulstireit, aud thence
proceed to Skjolden (p. 144) where they join the route described
in the opposite directinn on p. I'lS. returning through the Lsei'dal
to the Sognefjord, and going on by steamer from Loerdalseren
to Balholm ". 9-10]
From Vadheim by steamer and carriage via- Ferde (p. 179) to Skei
(p. 180); drive and row to Bed (p. ISl), and thence drive to Sandeiie
and Visihces on the Nordfjord (p. 185) 3
I'.xcursion from Visnses to \\it Oldendal or Loendal (p. 187). Drive viTi
Orollid lo Marok (p. 196) 3
Steamer or rowing-boat from Marok to Uellesyll (p. 195); drive thence
via Fibelstad-lJaugen to Hie on the Norangsfjord (p. 198) ... 1
From 0ie by steamer or rowing-boat to the Jeirundfjord (p. 199); drive
to J0rstenrik; sleamer to Aalesiiiul (p. 202). Or take Un-. steamer
direct from Jl^ie to Aulesiind I
xvi III. PLAN OF TOUR.
Days
Aulesiind and thence by steamer to MoUle (p. 204) . 1
Excursions I'rciiii Mulde to the Iloinsdal {[>. 203) and the EikisJul (p. 2L3).
Steamer vi;V i'lirutianasund to Trondhjem A
[Or, after an excursion to the Eikiadal, proceed from Molde via Aan-
daUtiws through the Romsdal and the Gudbrandsdal (11. 27) to Doin-
aas, and tlience over the Dovrtfjeld to Steven (p. 72) C]
From Trondhjem to tiie ^orlh Cape and back (RR. 30, 32, 33) ._ . . 8-14
Railway from Trondhjem via Ostersund (R. 58) and Upsala (K. 58) to
Stockholm 3-4
Stockholm and its environs 4
From Stockholm via the OOta Canal and Lake Vettern to JSnkiijiiny
(R. 46) 2
Railway from Jonkoping via Lund and MalmS to Copenhagen (RR.
45, 39) 2
Copenhagen and HeUinger (RR. 68, 69) 3
Return to London^ Hull, Harwich., or Leith (comp. pp. xii, xiii) . l*/2-3
[Or from Stockholm by the GSla Canal to Gotenhurg 2
Steamer from Gotenburg to England (p. xii) !'/•-']
II. Three or Four Weeks (Five or Six Weeks including the Voyage to the
North Cape or a Trip through Sweden).
Christiania and its neighbourhood (R. 2) 1
From Christiania by railway to Skien via Dfammen (R. 5) . . . . 1
From Skien through Telemarken to Odde on the Hardanger Fjord (R. 18) 4-5
[This route may be joined here by travellers from Stavanger viil
the Suldalsvand, the Breifond Hotel, and Seljestad (comp. p. xv) 3]
The Hardanger Fjord: Odde (p. 108); Vik i Eidfjord (p. Ill); Sundal
on the Mauranger Fjord (p. 103); to Bergen bv steamer (R. 19) . 5
Bergen (R. 19) .' 1
From Bergen by railway to Tom, and thence drive to Stalheimsklev
(p. 128) 1
Walk to Gudvangen (p. 138) ; thence by steamer across the Soynefjord
to Balholtn and FJcerland (p. 134), and thence tu Vadheim (p. 132) 3
From Vadheim drive via Ferde to Sandene on the Nordfjord (p. 184) 2
Excursions on the Nordfjord and its side-valleys (R. 25); jiroceed
through the Strynsdal via GrotUd to Marok (R. 2b) 3
From Marok by steamer to Hellesyll (p. 195), drive through the No-
rangsdal to j0ie (p. 198) on the Norangsfjord, and by steamer over
the Jerundfjord to AaXesund (R. 26) and thence to Molde ... 1-2
Molde, the Molde-Fjord, and the Romsdal (R. 27) 3
From Molde to Trondhjem. Trondhjem (p. 219) i^j-i-'i
From Trondhjem we may either return by steamer to England (p. xii).
or proceed farther to the N. to visit the Norrland (RR. 30-34), or return
by railway to Christiania, or take a trip through Sweden as indicated on
p. xvii.
III. Four or Five Weeks in Norway, including the Voyage to the
North Gape.
Steamer from Hull or Newcastle to Stavanger 2
Stavanger to Odde and the Hardanger Fjord 5
From Bergen to Trondhjem via Molde, as indicated at pp. xv, xvi 10-12
Steamer to the North Cape and back 8-14
Railway from Trondhjem to Christiania 1
Steamer to England 2
IV. Four or Five Weeks in Norway.
Steamer from London, Hull, or Newcastle to Christiania 2
Christiania and railway to Skien (R. 5) 1
Through Telemarken, as indicated above 3-4
Excursions on the Hardanger Fjord from Odde and Vik (pp. 108, 111) 3-4
From Eide (p. 106) via .Vossevangen to the Stalheimsklev (p. 128) . . 1
III. PLAN OF TOUR. xvii
Dasy
The Sognefjord (R. 21), Nwrefjord, FjwrUinJs- Fjord, and liy stpainer
to Vad'htim (p. 132) ii-4
Via Sandene on the, Noi-d/Jord, fStniii, Oroltid, MaroK\ and SJelivll (R. 20")
to Molde ' G-8
Molde; the Homsdal 2-3
Steamer from Bergen to England (p. xii) 2
V. Four or Five Weeks in Norway for Walkers.
Steamer from London, etc., to Christiansand 2
Through the SwtersdcU to Dalen in Telemarken (comp. p. 5 ; the third
day's walk is long) 3
Drive via the Haukelifjeld to Reldal, the Breifond Hotel, and Selje-
siad; walk and drive to Odde (pp. 97, 98). Excursions from OdJe 4
Steamer to V'j* i Eidfjord (p. 111). Excursions to the Verinyfos and
via Fosli to the Simodal 2
Steamer to Ulcik (p. 114); walk or drive to Eide (p. lOj) .... 1
Steamer to Bergen (R. 19) and stay at Bergen 2
Railway to Vossevangen ; drive to Siallieim (R. 20) 1
Walk to Gudvangen (p. 138); steamer to Balhulm (p. 133) and Fja'r-
laiid (p. 134) 1
Walk via the Jostedalthrx to Jehter (p. 18t)); row to Skei (p. 177);
drive ou the following afternoon to Aamot (p. 178) 2
Walk via (he Oldenskar (p. 181) to the Oldenvand; steamer across the
lake; walk or drive to Olden (p. 185) 1
Steamer to Visiiws (p. 185); drive to Mindre Snnde ; steam-launch or
rowing-boat to Hjelle (p. 189) t
Drive to Skaare (p. 190); walk via the Orasdalsskar to the DJupvas-
hytte (p. 192); walk or drive to Marok (p. 196) 1
Steamer to Hellesylt (p. 195); drive to Fibelstad-flaugen ; walk to ^ie
(p. 198) 1
Steamer via Aulesund to Molde; Molde (p. 204) IV*
Excursion to the Romsdal (p. 208); walk across the mountains to the
Eikisdal (p. 210); visit the Eikisdulsvand (p. 213) and walk to N0ste
(p. 212) 3
Steamer to Molde. In the afternoon visit Baltenfjordseren (p. 21G) ;
steamer via C/tristianssund to Trondhjem 2
[Or from N»Jste proceed via Eidsvaag to Eidseren (p. 217), take the
Sundal steamer to Chrisiianssnnd , and go on next day to
Trondhjem 2]
Trondhjem (R. 29) 1
Return thence as indicated on p. xvi.
VI. A Fortnight from Christiania.
Steamer to Christiania (p. 9). Christiania 3
Railway to Dokka (p. 53); drive through the Valders Ipp. 54-60) to
Lwrdalseren tp. 141) 4
Steamer to Gudvangen (R. 21); walk or drive to Htulheim (p. 1281;
drive to Voss (p. 125); railway to Bergen (R. 19). Ba-gen ... 3
Steamer to Odde on the Hardanger Kjord (R. 18) 1
Drive via Seljeslad to the Breifond IJotel (p. 97) and Nws on the
Suldalsvand; steamer to Osen ; drive to Sand; steamer to Sla-
vanger 2
Steamer from Stavanger to England (p. xii) 2
VII. Seven Weeks in Sweden.
Steamer from England (p. xii) to Clotenhurg • • 2
Oolenburi/, and railway to TroUhiittan (R. 43) 2
Steamer on Lake Venern to the Kinnekulle (R. 43l; railway via Ful-
kiiping to JiJnkdping (R. 45). JiinkOping 3
Steamer un Lake Veltern to Motala and up the OSta Canal to Stock-
holm (R. 46) 2
Bakukkkk's Is'orway and Sweden. 8th Edit. b
xviii IV. CONVEYANCES.
Days
Slockhnlm and its environs (RR. 49, 50) 4
Excursidn to Falun -jliiA Late Siljan, returning via Vpsala (liR. 5G, bl) T)
Steamer from StockLohn to Haparanda (RR. G2, 64) 3
Steamer bacli to Lule& ; railway to (lellivava (RR. 64, 66) 3
Railway bacli to Murjek (p. 401) ; drive via Sto-backen to Jnckmock
(R. G5) ii/2
Row and walk to Kvickjock and back (R. 65) 4-6
Drive and row frOm .lockmock to Edefors 1
Earlv steamer to Hednoret ([k 390); railwav t i Vdnnds (p. 3^0) and
Ume& (p. 395) ". 1
Steamer to Hernosand (K. 62 and p. 392) 1
.Steamer up the Anyerman-Elf \o BolUftea (p. 394); railwav to Bisp-
garden (p. 388) " . . . . 1
Steamer down the Indah-Elf to ftwtdsvall (R. 60) 1
Railway to Ostej-sund (RR. 59, 58) . . • „ 1
Railway (R. 5S) to Are (excursion to the Areskutan) and Dufed (ex-
cursion to the Tiinnfors), and back to Stockholm 4
Steamer to Ootland (Wishy) and back to Knlmar (p. 2S1); railway via
Vexio (p. 2fc'0j and fmnd (p. 276) to Malmii 3
IV. Conveyances. Walking Tours. Cycling Tours.
Tjme Tables for Korway appear in '•Noryes Communicntioner' (pron.
Commoonicashoner; 30 0., English and German edition, 50 0.), and for
Sweden in '■Sveriges Kommunikationer' (10 o.), both published weekly in
summer. Neither of these, however, is very satisfactory; and travellers in
Norway are recommended to obtain Beyer's Tourists' Time-Tables (published
fortnightly ; 50 0.) or the similar publication issued by Bennett ([>. ll), both of
which may usually be purchased of the tourist agents (p. xiv) in London.
For Sweden the TagtidtahMen (25 6.) are useful. The 'Sommerruter' of
the various fjord steamboat lines may be obtained at Stavanger, Bergen,
Aalesund, and Christianssund. Among other time-tables may be mentioned
the i?eic/»s-A'«rs6«cft (Berlin) and the Reiieliste for Kongeriget Danmark {Co-
penhagen), which travellers to or from Germany will find useful.
Observe that many of the summer time-tables, especially those of the
fjord-steamers, hold good till the end of August only.
Steamboats {l^oiw. Bampskibe , Sw. An(jhatar\ The regul' r
Norwegian coasting traffic is almost entirely in the Lands of the
Bergenske and the Nordenfjeldske DampskibS'SeLskab, which have
a common tlme-tahle. The headquarters of the former are at Bergen,
those of the latter at Trondhjem. (Agents at Christiatiia and New-
castle, see p. xiv. ) The smaller steamers plying on the Norwegian
fjords are comfortable enotigh dining the day, but their sleeping
accommodation is poor, and on market-days they are apt to be over-
crowded. The same remark applies to the smaller coasting steamers
on the Baltic and on the Swedish canals. — It should be noted that
the tjord-steamers sometimes leave intermediate stations Y2 I'r.
before their advertised hour.
Most travellers will, of course, travel in the first cabin. Those
who are about to spend one or more nights on board should at
once secure their berths (kojen) in a stateroom (Norw. lugar, Swed.
hytt) by personal application to the steward. Otherwise they may
have to put up with sofas in the dining-saloon, with the additional
disadvantage of having to quit their couches before early breakfast
((3 or 7 a.m.). There are always a separate ladies' cabin and a smok-
IV. CONVEYANCES. xix
ing-room. A passenger travelling with his family by mail-steamer
(and some others) in Norway pays full fare for himself, but is usually
entitled to a reduction ('Moderation'; pron. 'moderashon') of
50 per cent on the fare (but not on the cost of food) for each of the
other members of the party. In Sweden members of the Tourists'
Union (p. xxv) often obtain considerable reductions frafiaif J on the
ordinary fare. Keturn-tickets are usually valid for a month or more,
but do not permit the journey to be broken. When tickets are taken
on board the steamer (usual at small stations) a small booking-fee
is common. The captains and mates generally speak English. The
traveller should be careful to look after his own luggage.
The food is generally good and abundant, though a little mono-
tonous. Vegetables are rare, and tinned meats, salt relishes, and
cheese always preponderate at breakfast and supper. The tariff in
the Bergen and Nordenfjeld steamers is as follows: — food per
day, including service, 5 kr. 60 0.; or, separately, the charge for
breakfast is 1 kr. 50e., for dinner (at 2) 2kr. 60 0., supper (at 7.30)
Ikr. 5O0. ; attendance 30 0. On board the smaller vessels: breakfast
or supper 11/.2, D. 2, attendance */2 kr. Gup of tea or coffee with
biscuit or rusk (Kavrinyer; Swed. Skorpor), in the morning 30-350.;
small cup of coffee after dinner 20 0.; beer 50-60 0. per bottle,
25 0. per half-bottle ; claret 1 1/4 kr. per half-bottle. No spirits
are procurable. The account should be paid daily, to prevent mis-
takes. The steward expects a fee proportioned to the length of the
voyage and the services rendered. — On board the ferry-boats across
the Great Belt, the Sound, etc., there is usually a table with cold
meats, etc. (koldt Bord), from which the traveller may help himself
(1-1 V2 I'^r.); small bottle of beer, 25 0.
Railways (Norw. Jembaner, Sw. Jernvdgnr). Most of the rail-
ways are similar to those in other European countries ; but in Nor-
way and Sweden there are several narrow-gauge lines (31/3 ft.),
with two classes only, corresponding to the 2nd and 3rd on the other
lines. The guard is called ^Konduktor. In both countries the rail-
ways observe Central Europe time (1 hr. ahead of Greenwich time).
Luggage (50-70lbs. usually free), except what the passenger takes
into the carriage with him, must be booked. The average speed of
the quick trains (Norw. Hurliytog, Sw. kurlrtng, sndUtuii) is 22-24
Engl. M., that of the mixed trains (hUmdede Tog, blandiide tag)
15-20 Engl. M. per hour. All the trains have smoking-carriages
(liegekupe, rlikkupe) and ladies' compartments (Kvindekupe, dain-
kupe). Return-tickets are usually valid for a month.
On the Swcdisfi State Railways there is a special zone-tarift'for distances
over 300 Kil. to Uio N. of Stockholm: 301 Kil. 2nd class tare 15 kr. 80,
3rd class fare 10 kr. 50 ii. ; 400 Kil. 17 kr. 40, 11 kr. 80 o. ; 500 Kil.
iii kr. 90, 12 kr. CO o. ; 600 Kil. 20 kr. 40, 13 kr. 60 0.; 700 Kil. 21 kr. 90,
14 kr. 60 o. These tickets permit the jovirney to be broken once (but if a
night be spent, notice must be given to the station-master). Stoppages of
the train ;it the official nii,'ht-stations fconip. pp. 379, 388) are not reckoned
as breaks (jn the journey.
b*
XX IV. CONVEYANCES.
The Railway Restaurants in Sweden and at the principal
stations in Norway are generally good and not expensive ; but those
on the branch-lines are often poor. Passengers help themselves,
there being little or no attendance. For breakfast or supper the
usual charge is i^/i-i^/o, for dinner 1 V2"2V2 ^''- 5 *or a cup of coffee
or half- bottle of beer lb ei. (frequently included in the charge
for dinner); sandwiches 25-50 0.; spirits not obtainable. The
express-trains stop at certain stations, the names of which are posted
up in the carriages, to allow time (generally only 1/4 hr.) for meals.
Posting (Norw. Skyds, Sw. Skjuts; pronounced shoss or shiiss
in each case). Sweden is so well provided with railways and
steamboats that travelling by road is rare except in the Norrland
(RR. 65, 66), but in Norway there are still immense tracts of country
where driving is the only means of communication. The new high-
roads, maintained by government, are generally good, and the older
roads are being improved; but some of the latter are very rougi(,
with sudden ups and downs, reminding one of a switchback railway.
The Sky dsstalioner {-pron. stasho ner; which are inns also, see
p. xxvi) , or farm-houses whose proprietors are bound to supply
travellers with horses whenever required, are situated at intervals
of 6-15 Engl. M. If the stage is a short one and the horse good,
the traveller may often drive on to the next station on getting leave
from the station-master.
Those 'stations' where the ^YO^rietor (8 lalion-s- Holder or Skyds-
Skaffer) is bound to have several horses always in readiness, and
is liable to a tine if he keeps the traveller waiting for more than
'/4-I/2 111'-) are called Faste Stationer {i. e. 'fixed stations', where
a 'fixed' number of horses are in readiness), or usually by English
travellers 'fast stations'. Another class of stations, now rare, except
in little frequented districts, is the TUslgelse-Stationer (oy Skifter),
the owners of which are bound to procure horses on getting notice
or 'Tilsigelse' (from tilsige, 'to tell to', 'send to'). At these stations,
justly called 'slow' by English travellers byway of antithesis to the
'fast', the charges are very low, but the traveller may often be kept
waiting for hours. These delays are obviated by sending Forbud
('previoiis message') to stations ot this class, and the same remark
applies to 'slow' boat-stations. The 'Forbud' must arrive at least
three hours before the time at which horses are required, or better
on the previous day, and should therefore be dispatched two or
three days beforehand. It is usually sent by letter or post-card, or
by any one preceding the traveller on the same route t. Travellers
t The Forbiidseddel, or message, may be expressed as follows: —
Paa Skydsskiftet {. . . name the station) bestilUs en Uest (to Besle, etc.)
med Kariul (Karioler) eller Stolkjcerre (Stolkjoerrtr) Mandagen den 20. Juli,
Formiddac/en (E/tevmiddagen) Klokken el (tu, tre, etc.). Paa summe Tid varin
Frokost (or Middagsmad) for en Person (to, (re Personer).
Date & Place. Signature.
Tariff for Posting ('Land-Skyds') in Norway.
1
II. From Slow Stations
I. From Fast Stationa.
{plu* 20 0. per horse for'Tilsigelse';
comp. p, xx).
-
For one
person
Two pers.
For one person
Two pers.
One horse 1
One horse
One horse
One horse
One horse
One horse
1
[plvs 1 0.
with
with
[plut 1 0.
with
with
§
per Kil.
for the
cariole
or
stol-
per Kil.
for the
cariole
or
stol-
saddle)
stolk.isprre
kjeerre
saddle)
stolk.iserre
kjserre
_
Kt.0.
Kr. 0.
Kt.0.
Kr.0.
Kr. 0.
Kr. 0.
I
O.I5
0.17
0.26
O.IO
0.12
0.18
2
0.30
0-34
0.51
0.20
0.24
0.36
3
0.45
0.51
0.77
0.30
0.36
0.54
4
0.60
0.68
1.02
0.40
0.48
0.72
5
0.75
0.85
1.28
0.50
0.60
0.90
6
0.90
I .02
1-53
0.60
0.72
1.08
7
1.05
I. 19
1.79
0.70
0.84
1.26
8
1.20
1.36
2.04
0.80
0.96
1.44
9
1-35
1-53
2.30
0.90
1.08
1.62
lO
1.50
1.70
2-55
1. 00
1.20
X.80
II
1.65
1.87
2.81
I. 10
1.32
1.98
12
1.80
2.04
3.06
1.20
1.44
2.16
13
1-95
2.21
3.32
1.30
1.56
2.34
14
2.10
2.38
3-57
1.40
1.68
2.52
15
2.25
2.55
3.83
1.50
1.80
2.70
i6
2.40
2.72
4.08
1.60
1.92
2.88
17
2.55
2.89
4-34
I .70
2.04
3.06
i8
2.70
3.06
4-59
1.80
2.16
3-24
19
2.85
3-23
4.85
1.90
2.28
3-42
20
3.00
3 40
5-IO
2.00
2.40
3.60
21
3-iS
3-57
5.36
2. 10
2.52
3.78
22
-3-30
3-74
5.61
2.20
2.64
3-96
23
3-45
3-91
5.87
2.30
2.76
4.14
24
3.60
4.08
6.12
2.40
2.88
4-32
25
3.75
4.25
6.38
2.50
3.00
4.50
Tariff for Boats ('Baad-Skyds') in Norway.
1
II. From Slow Stations
I. From Fast Stations. |
{plus 7 0. per rower and 6 0. per
boat for 'Tilsigelse).
u
-01
1
5
2 men
with
4-oared
boat
and sail
3 men
with
6-oared
, boat
and sail
4 men
with
8-oared
boat
and sail
2 men
with
4-oared
boat
and sail
3 men
with
Soared
boat
and sail
4 men
with
8-oared
boat
and sail
Kr. 0.
Kr. 0.
Kt.0.
Kr.0.
Kt.0.
Kt.0.
I
0.28
0.40
0.56
0.24
0.34
0.48
2
0.56
0.80
1. 12
0.48
0.68
0.96
3
0.84
I .20
1.80
0.72
1.02
1.44
4
1. 12
1.60
2.24
0.96
1.36
I .92
5
1.40
2.00
2.80
1.20
1.70
2.40
6
1.68
2.40
3-36
1.44
2.04
2.88
7
1.96
2.80
3 92
1.68
2.38
3-36
8
2.24
3.20
4.48
1.92
2.72
3.84
9
2.52
3.60
5 -04
2. 16
3.06
4.32
lO
2.80
4.00
5.60
2.40
3 -40
4.80
II
3.08
4.40
6.16
2.64
3-74
5.28
12
3-36
4.80
6.72
2.88
4.08
5-76
13
3-64
5.20
7.28
3.12
4.42
6.24
»4
3-92
5.60
7.84
3.36
4.76
6.72
15
4.20
6.00
8 40
3.60
5-IO
7.20
16
4.48
6.40
8.96
3-84
5«44
7.68
17
4.76
6.80
9-52
4.08
5.78
8.16
iS
5.04
7.20
10.08
4.32
6.12
8.64
19
S.32
7.60
10.64
4-56
6.46
9.12
20
5.60
8.00
11.20
4.80
6.80
9.60
21
5.88
8.40
11.76
5 -04
7-14
10.08
22
6.16
8.80
12.32
5.28
7.48
10.56
23
6.44
9.20
12.88
5-52
7.82
11.04
24
6.72
9.60
13-44
5.76
8.16
II .52
25
7.00
10.00
14.00
6.00
8.50
12.00
IV. CONVEYANCES. xxi
pressed for time may also with advantage send 'Forbud' to 'fast'
stations. — Those who wish to make an early start should invariably
order the skyds the previous day ; in country-inns the OpvoHningspUit
(p. xxvi) will take the order. But breakfast is not usually to be
had before about 8 a.m. Delay on the journey may be avoided by
informing the 'Gut' before arriving at a station that the traveller
intends to proceed at once ( ^jeg vil strax reise videre). — Every
station-master is bound to keep a Daghog (Skydsbog) or day-book,
in which the traveller enters his orders and records his complaints if
he has any to make. Travellers are entitled to proceed in the order
in which tlieir names are entered in this book.
The ordinary vehicles supplied at the skyds-stations are the
Stolkjcerre (a light cart with seats for two persons), and the lighter
and swifter Knriol (a light gig for one person). The latter is now
rarely used on the main routes. Some stolkjserres have an extra
seat for the driver and are therefore to be preferred, as otherwise
the Skydsgut (or simply Gut; the girl who sometimes takes his
place is called Jente) takes his seat on the top of the luggage which
is strapped or roped at the back of the vehicle. If the traveller
takes the reins (Temmer) himself, he will be responsible for any
accident; as the reins are usually only of rope and the rest of the
harness frequently far from strong, it is perhaps safer to allow the
'Gut' to drive from behind. For very bulky or heavy luggage
additional vehicles must be engaged.
As a rule about 8-9 Kil. (5-51 '2 Engl. M.), or less in hilly districts,
may be covered in an hour. It is difficult to calculate very closely
the time likely to be occupied by skyds-journeys, but an attempt to
do so has been made in the account of some of our routes, and the
Editor hopes, with the courteous assistance of travellers, to be able to
extend the system to all the main routes. Speaking generally, about
70-FO Kil. (40-50 p]ngl. M.) may be accomplished in a day, but
journeys of that length are, of course, fatiguing. The long strings of
vehicles that are frequently seen converging upon the more frequented
spots and favourite hotels, especially towards evening, should be
avoided on account of the dust. For a similar reason it is considered
'bad form' for one carriage to overtake another, unless the difference
of pace is very considerable. The horses, or rather ponies, are often
overdriven by foreigners. As the average charge of 1-3d. per Engl,
mile is not a very adequate remuneration to the Skijdspligtige, or
peasants who are bound to supply the horses,' it is unfair on this
account also to overdrive them. A frequent inscription in the skyds
stations is 'Veer god mod hesteri' (i.e. be good to the horse), and
travell'ers who obey this injunction will receive a good character
from the 'Gut' at the successive stations and will in consequence
be more cheerfully and quickly served. In every case the traveller
in Norway will find his account more in politeness and civility than
in anything approaching a dictatorial manner.
xxii IV. WALKING TOURS.
The posting-charge at 'fast' stations is fixed at 17 m. per Kil.
for one pers. { 'eiikelt Skyds') and 26 c. for two pers. ('halvanden
Skyds', i.e. a Skyds and a half): compare the annexed tariff, printed
on yellow paper. On hilly roads and on the new government
highroads the 'Skyds-Skaffer' is frequently authorized to charge for
more than the actual distance between stations. On the first page
of the 'Dagbog' is always entered the fare to the nearest station in
each direction, whether by road or by rowing-boat. Distances under
5 Kilometres (3 M.) are charged at the full 5 Kil. rate. At the slow
stations the station-master is entitled to a fee of 20 0. per horse,
in addition to the I'are, for the trouble of getting it ready. Strictly
speaking the fare may be exacted before the hirer starts, but it is
usually paid at the end of the stage, when the 'Gut' receives a
gratuity of about 1^2 *'• P^'' kilometre. The 'Gaardskarl', or man
who helps to harness the horses, does not expect a fee. Nothing
should be given to the peasant children who sometimes officiously
open gates. At slow stations the station-master may dismiss the
horses if the traveller who has ordered them is more than 21/2 hours
late, and after the first hour of waiting he may exact 'Ventepenge'
or waiting-money (amounting, for 1-21/2 hrs. , to the fare for
3-10 Kil.). Tolls, ferries, and similar dues are paid by the traveller.
On the great thoroughfares through Telemarken (R. 6), the
Valders (R. 8) , and the Gudbrandsdal (R. 9) it is often found
more convenient to hire a carriage (Kaleschvogn or Landau) 01 even
a Slolkjarre and horses for the whole route, in order to avoid delays
at the over-tasked stations. In this case there is no restriction as
to the amount of luggage accompanying the traveller (comp.
p. xxiii). The horses usually rest for V2 l^r- every two hours, in
addition to the midday halt of 2 hrs. Carriages may be obtained on
application at any of the Tourist Offices (p. xiv). — On some of the
long overland routes Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son (p. xlv) have pro-
vided landaus, carioles, and stolkjaerres of a more comfortable de-
scription and better found than the ordinary vehicles of the country.
Rowing Boats. For the conveyance of travellers by boat (Baad-
skyds or Vandskyds) the regulations are similar, but on all the
principal routes steamers now ply. Those who have a guide with
them may employ him as a rower, and thus dispense with one of
the usual crew. Each rower (Rorskarl) generally rows or 'sculls'
with two oars. A boat manned with two rowers is therefore called
a Peering, or four-oared boat, one maimed with three rowers a Sex-
ring , and with four rowers an Ottering. For short distances a
Faring generally suffices. The tariff is determined by the size of
the boat and not by the number of persons. The Tilsigelse fee is
7 0. per man and 6 0. per boat. As the fares are very unremun-
erative, the traveller should add a liberal gratuity.
Walking Tours. Neither Norway nor Sweden is suitable for
long walking excursions, as the distances are too great , and the
IV. CYCLING TOURS. xxiii
points of interest too far apart. A few districts in the Swcfiish
Norrlaud are, however, accessible to pedestrian tourists. In Norway
there is no lack of short excursions which can be made on foot
only. Besides the passes over the mountains to the W. coast from
the Sitlersdal (p. 5), Hallingdal (p. 32), and Telemarken (pp. 50-52),
and the excursions and ascents in Jotunheim { R. 22) and Send-
mere (p. 197), we may mention in this connection the passes, often
very beautiful, connecting the heads of different fjords (comp.
pp. xvii, 105, 107, 146, 149, 199, etc.). Several fine walks may also
be taken in the Norrland (RR. 30, 33). The footpaths are, as might he
expected, far inferior to those among the Alps. On very hilly roads
walking is quicker than driving, in which case a cariole or cart may
advantageously be hired for luggage only. In many cases the only
means of forwarding luggage is offered by the steamers. Application
for farther particulars may be made to the tourist-agents (p. xiv).
Cycling Tours. Both Sweden and Norway afford good opportu-
nities for cycling; and the cyclist, perhaps, enjoys a greater measure
of independence than any other traveller.
All steamship-companies running direct to Xorway and Sweden carry
passengers' cycles from England tree of charge. By the Esbjerg r' ute
from Harwich cycles are booked throiigli at ordinary luggage-rate^, plus
a registration fee of 6s. 5d. per inathine to Malmo or 5s. lUd. to Helsing-
borg. It is not desirable to t ike a crate when the machine is accompanied
by its owner, but the frame should be carefully swathed in some kind of
cloth-covering to protect the enamel and bright parts from the sea-air.
Cyclists entering Sweden are permitted to introduce their cycles free
on making a declaration that the machines are not fur sale but for
personal use only. Cycles entering Norway are subject to a duty of
30 kr. (1/. 13«. 4d.), a deposit of which amount must in the ordinary way
be made by the tourist. Memberj of the Cyclists^ Touring Clu'> f47 Victoria
St., London, S.W.) are exempted from this obligation, the club being
known to the Iforwegian customs-authorities as the 'International Touring
Club for Cyclists'. The Cyclists" Touring Club has also concluded iitree-
ment'i with the Touring Club of Sweden and the Cjcli'ts' Touring Club9
(if Norway and Denmark, whereby members of the English club are entitled
to the benefit of reductions in hotel-tariffs, eta., obtained by those bodies
in their respective countries.
As a rule, the newer road.« in Scandinavi i are excellent. They dry
quickly after rain, but during rain they are apt to become greasy and care
must be taken to guard ag.iinstside slip. They are magnificently engineered,
and the gradients are very easy. Some of the older roads are less to be
recommended to the cyclist owing to their steepness and the looseness of
their surface. Riding after dark on mountain-roads is dangerous, though
it would be well to take a lamp in view of any unforsei n emergency.
The fjord-steamers carry accompanied bicycles free of cost, and the wheel -
mon can further utilise them for .'•ending on his extra luggage, retaining
only enough for immediate requirements. A thoroughly trustworthy brake
is essential, especially in Norway. The wisest plan" is to have a good
strong rim-brake <m the front-wheel and an additional brake on the back-
wheel. It is important to keep erne's machine at all times well under
control, as gates across roads are continually encountered, often at un-
expected turnings, and drivers allow their animals to wander at will, so
thiit one not unfrequently finds the road entirely blocked by a vehic'e
standing across it. Again, the mountain-road.s are narrow and protected
only by stones set at intervals varying from a few inches to several feetj
xxiv V, EQUIPMENT.
sometimes (he gap is quite sufficient to allow a cycle to pass through at
full length.
Perhaps the favourite ride in Norway is that through the frudhrandsdal
and the Romadal — from Christiania train or cycle to Minne, steamer to
Lillehammer, cycle to Veblungsnres. Here steamer may be taken to Molde
and along the coast to Bergen, train to Vosscvangen, cycle to Gudvangen,
steamer to Lff'rdals0ren, cycle via Iliisum and the liallingdMl to H«(nefos,
and return to Christiania. This route may be varied by branching off at
Domaas and riding over the Dovre Fjeld to Trondhjem or STindals0ren-, or
by branching oil' at Bredevangen and riding via Skeaker to Marok, or to
Hjelle, whence liy steamer and cycle to Visnres.
In Sweden the roads in the neighbourhood of Stockhohn and those in
the extreme south of the country are the most suitable for the cyclist. The
roads vary greatly, but a good cycling map will often enable the rider to
train undesirable portions. The number of possible rides is infinitely
greater in this country than in Norway; among them may be mentioned':
— a. Helsingborg to Stockholm via Jtinkoping, Linkiiping, Norrkoping, and
Nykiiping (642 Kil.). b. Lund to Kavlskrona via Christiaustad and Karls-
hamn (21(5 Kil.). c. Gotenburg to Stockholm via Falkiiping, Laxa, and
Vexio (559 Kil.).
Several of the best routes in Norway, Sweden, and Denmark are de-
scribed in the 'Continental Road Book' of the C. T. C. (vol. iii). Among
the cycling maps published in tlie country mention may be made of that
for S. Norway ('Hjulturistkart over det Sydlige Norge") published by the
Norwegian C.T.C. ('Norsk Hjulturist-Forcning'), the headi|uarters of which
are at Christiania. Maps are al.«o supplied by the Englisli C. T. C.
V. Luggage. Equipment. Tourist Clubs.
Luggage. Travellers who intend travelling by cariolc or stol-
kjffirre should not take more than 30-40 lbs., packed in a small and
strong box and a carpet-bag, to which may be added a wallet or game-
pouch for -walking excursions. A soft or compressible portmanteau
is not recommended, as the 'Skydsgut" usually sits on the luggage
strapped on behind. Suitable leathern trunks are sold at Christiania,
Bergen, and elsewhere for about 20 kr. A supply of stout cord and
straps will be useful, and a strong umbrella is indispensable.
Equipment. The traveller should avoid the common error of
overburdening himself with 'articles de voyage', eatables, or any-
thing not absolutely necessary. On the ordinary routes, and even in
remoter places, tolerable food can almost always be obtained. Tea
and essence of coffee will, however, sometimes be found useful.
Spirits are not to be had at the inns , but good cognac may be
purchased in the larger towns for 4-5 kr. per bottle. A field-glass
(Kikkert), a pocket- corkscrew, and a small clothes-brush will be
found useful. As to clothing, two strong but light tweed suits, a
change of warm underclothing, a pair of light shoes for steamboat
and cariole use, and a pair of extra-strong Alpine boots for moun-
taineering ought to suffice. Add a stout and long ulster, a light
waterproof, and a couple of square yards of strong waterproof ma-
terial, as a wrapper for coats and rugs, or for covering the knees
in wet weather, as the ^'pwns (Skv(ttl(Td€r) of the carioles are often
dilapidated. Visitors to Lapland and the Swedish Norrland sliould
further be provided with veils to keep off the gnats. Ladies travel-
V. TOURIST CLUBS. xiv
ling ill Norway should also dress as simply, strongly, and comfort-
ably as possible, eschewing ornament. For the rougher mountain
tours they should take stout gaiters or leggings.
KuKTHER Hints. An old hand recummemls a few safety-pins to !ic
used in keeping scanty sheets from parting company with the blankets
iir shrinkins into a wisp. — For monntaineering it i3 even more important
than in Switzerland to have very strong boots, waterproof if possible,
ami hiu'h in the ankle, as bogs and water-courses often have to be crossed,
ro the equipment already mentioned may be added sewing -materials, a
few buttons, arnica, glycerine, and a candle or two. — Good alpenstocks
are not to be obtained in Norway; it is a good plan to Ijring a proper
iron spike from home and have it fitted with a shaft in Christiania or
Uergcn. — Plenty of small change is desirable, as already mentioned. —
In the Swedish Norrland a veil for protection against the gnats, (iil(M'jf/ff-
olja) to apply to their Viilcs, and carbolic soap are essential. For tours
beyond the routes mentioned in the Handbook travellers require a tent,
'bandsko', sleeping-sacks, etc. ; apply for information to the Tourists' Union
at Stockholm (pp. 317, 400).
Guides charge 4-6 kr. per day and provide their own food, but a bar-
gain should always be made beforehand.
Tourist Clubs. The Norske TuristforeTiimj ('tourists' union'),
founded in 1866, extends its useful operations throoghoutNorway,
building refuge-huts, improving paths, appointing guides, etc.
There are now '1100 members, about 350 being British. The
subscription is only 4 kr. per annum (life-membership 50 kr.),
for which a copy of the '■Aarhog' will be sent to the subscriber
tlirough any Norwegian address he names. The club-button (Kluh-
knnp), worn as a distinctive badge, costs 80 ». more. The members
are received with marked courtesy in the mountain-regions, and
have a preferential right to accommodation at the club-huts (see
p. 148).
The Svcnska TuristfiWening (Stockholni , p. 317) is a similar
club, founded in 1884 and iiuraborinii nearly 25,000 members. The
annual subscription is 3 kr., wliicli entitles the member to a copy of
the ^Arsskrifl. Tlie club has honorary representatives (Ombud) at
numerous points, who lend all assistance to members, wliile there
are numerous otltc^r advantages attacheil to membcrsliip (comp.
p. xix). .\ circular is sent on request from the clubs offices at
Stockholm, containing much useful information, especially as to
travellitig in the Swedish Norrland.
The yorwegian Club (112 Strand, London, W.C.) is an institution,
on the lines of the Alpine Club, for those interested in Norway (annual
subs. il. is., for country-members \0s. 6rf.) It has a library, arranges
lectures, and publishes a year-book.
VI. Hotels and Inns.
Hotel accommodation in Norway and Sweden has much im-
proved during the last decade. In Nouway there are many hotels
entitled to rank as lirst-class, though perhaps in fitting up and in
cuisine they arc in I'erior to the newer houfes in vSwcdcn. Flxcept in
the iJtincipal towns, Norwegian hotels arc built of wood, many of
xxvi VI. HOTELS AND INNS.
them being admirable examples of the national timber architecture,
though they are apt to be noisy. In view of the inflammable nature of
their material they are furnished with numerous exits. The usual
charges at the first-class hotels are: R. 2-3, B. IV4-IV21 ^- 2-3, S.
11/2 l^r. ; at the second-class houses: R. 80 0.-I kr., B. 1-1 '/4, D.
11/21 S. 1-1 1/4 kr. The humbler inns in the less frequented districts
are even cheaper; so that pedestrians in the regions indicated at
p. xxii may often obtain board and lodging for 31/2-4 kr. per day.
The bedrooms, though plain, are scrupulously clean. Attendance
is not usually charged in the bill ; a fee of 40-50 0. from each
porson (Norw. Drikkepenge) to the servant or Opvarlningspige
(addressed as Freken) suffices. In Norway, as a rule, every Skyds-
Malion is also an inn (affording 'godt Kvarter' or 'slet Kvartcr',
according to circumstances), corresponding to the Swedish gaslyif-
raregard. In Sweden, and still more in Norway, the manners of
the innkeepers are reserved and homely, but there is no lack of
real politeness and attention. On the other hand, as the people
aie rather slow in their movements , travellers intending to make
an early start should make all their arrangements overnight.
In Sweden excellent hotels of the first class are to be found,
not only in Stockholm and Gotenburg, but also in several of the
smaller towns. In these the visitor enjoys a pleasant union of
international comfort with the Swedish national characteristics;
but some of the older houses leave much to be desired. For a room
at the first-class hotels 21/2-5 kr. or more is paid, at the humbler
hotels, from ll/j kr. upwards. The usual gratuities (drickes-
penningar) include 50 6. per day to the servant or SUiderskan
(addressed as Froken) and as much to the Bdrstaren or boots.
In Denmark good hotels are rarely to be found outside the
larger towns and most frequented bathing-resorts; the smaller
hotels are frequently deficient in comfort. The usual charges at
the best hotels are: R. from 21/2 kr., B. 80e.-l kr., D. 2-3 kr.
Tables-d'hote are almost unknown in Sweden. The Smorgasbord
or Branny insbord, where various relishes, bread-and-butter, and
liqueurs are served as stimulants to the appetite, is an institution
peculiar to Sweden, and should be patronised very sparingly. A charge
of 40-50 0. is usually made for it; sometimes, when the Smorgaser
are served on small plates, the charge is 75 6. In the evening, from
7 to 10, small portions of meat, etc., known as Sexor (six o'clock
meal) are served to those who wish a light supper (from 75 0.).
In Norway, on the other hand, tables-d'hote prevail, and it is some-
times difficult to procure anything to eat between the fixed hours ex-
cept tea and bread-and-butter or biscuits. The tinned meats ('Herme-
tiske Sager'), salted anchovies, cheese, etc., which form the staple
of breakfast and supper, should be avoided as much as possible.
The waiter (Norw. Opvarter; i^v/e(\.hiiiare,i-aklin''i''tare,garrrm,
rnarkor) usually receives a gratuity of 10 0. or more for each meal.
VI. HOTELS AND INNS. xxvii
The t'ollowing dishes are among the commonest in the bills of
fare (Norw. Spisesedd, Swed. Matseddel): —
Norwegian
. English.
Swedish.
Norwegian
. English.
Swedish.
Suppe
Soup
Soppa
Aal
Eel
Al
Kjedsuppe
Broth
Buljong
OJedde
Pike
Gfidda
Kjed
Meat
Kott
J0r refer
Trout
Foreller
kogl
boiled
kokt
Torsk
Cod
Torsk
stegt
roasted
stekl
Slid
Herring
.Sill
Oxekjed
Beef
OxklHl
Orensager
Vegetables
Gronsakcr
Kalvesteff
Roast veal
Kalfslek
Benner
Beans
Son or
Koleletler
Cutlets
Kotletter
jErter
Peas
Arter
( Faarestcg
Roast mut
F&rstek
( Poleter
Potatoes
Potatis, Po
\ Bedesteg
ton
\ Karlofler
.. later
Flesk
Pork
Flatk
^g
Eggs
Agg
Raadyvstcg
Roast veni-
Radjuvslek
Pandekagei
Pancakes
Pankakor
son
Ost (short)
Cheese
Ost
Rentdyrsteg
Roast rein
Rensiek
Smer
Butter
Smor
deer
Kager
Cakes
Kakor
Fjwrkrm
Poultry
Fjdderfa
Redvin
Red wine
Rodvin
And
Duck
And
Hvidvin
White wine livid Mn
Gaas
Goose
Oas
til (short)
Beer
01, bier
Fisk
Fish
Fisk
Brut
Lemonade
Brut.
Beer is the usual Scandinavian beverage (Norw. halv Flaske,
Swed. halfhutelj, 20-25 ».), but good claret and other wines arc
generally to be had at the larger inns and on board the steamers.
Spirits are never sold at the hotels or on board the steamers, but
may be purchased at the shops in the towns. Drunkenness, which
used to be a national vice, has been greatly diminished by recent
liquor laws, the principles of which (much the same in both Nor-
way and Sweden) are indicated at p. 288.
The so-called 'Sanatoria, answering to the British hydro-
pathics or the American 'snmmin'- boarding-houses', are well
spoken of for a residence of some little time, but they are not
much frequented by foreigners. They are common in both Norway
and Sweden.
Cafes are almost unknown in Norway, but arc to be found in
the larger Swedish towns. One of their specialties is Swedish
punch, a mixture of rum or arrak with lemon-juice and sugar,
drunk as a liqueur and undiluted (25-40 6. per glass). With ice
in summer it is a palatable, but not very wholesome beverage,
l^cer on draught can be had in the large towns only. — Caf^s and re-
staurants are frequently closed between 5 and 7 p.m. and also on
Sun., from 8.30 a.m. to 1.30 p.m.
Baths in Norway and Sweden are as a rule very primitive. The
bath-houses in the fjords and lakes are for gentlemen only.
VII. Sport.
SroRT of all kinds has fallen off greatly in Norway and Sweden
of late years. Kxc(>Ilent salmon-fishing is indeed still obtainable,
but only at high rents, and the best rivers, such as the Namsen-Iilu
xxviii VI [. SPORT.
above Namsos, are let on long leases, chiefly to woaltliy Englishmen.
Good trout-flshing , however, may still be had by those who are
prepared for some hardships. Many rivers are now leased by hotel
proprietors for the benefit of their guests. Amongst these may be
mentioned the Loen-Elv, belonging to the Hotel Alexandria at Loen
(p. 18.5) ; the linuma, in the Romsdal (p. 208); and the Fortun-Elv,
near Skjolden (p. 144). Tront-flshing may be enjoyed by visitors to
Aaserals Sunalorium (p. 90), the Hotel Gloppen (p. 184), etc.
It is difficult now to obtain good shooting in Norway or Swe-
den. The mountains enclosing the Ilalliiigdal still afford reindeer
shooting , which may also be had on the Hardanger Vidda, near
the Romsdal, near Raros, in Lapland, or, still better, in Spitz-
bcrgen ; and wild-fowl abound in many parts of Norway, partic-
ularly in the trackless forests of 0stordalen , in the Ostra and
Vestra Dal in Dalarne, around the Storsjci in Jcmtland, and in
Lapland ; but in every case the sportsman will find serious diffi-
culties to contend with. Most of the, mountain and forest districts,
where the best sport is obtainable, belong to government, and by
a Norwegian law of 1900 a general licence to shoot there costs
100 kroner, while a licence to hunt reindeer , stag, or elk costs
200 kroner more. These licences are also required by foreigners
when permission is obtained to shoot over private property, where
the sport is generally very inferior. Another drawback to the sports-
man's enjoyment is the difficulty of obtaining tolerable quarters.
The Swedish game-laws, however, are less stringent, a licence for
shooting on unenclosed land belonging to government being seldom
required.
The Close Seasons for game, Ihoiigh they vary in rtill'erent districts,
arc aiiproxiniately as follows: — For Mack game (Ur/ianc, Ur/teiic), caper-
cailzie (TJiir), and hazel-grouse (Iljerpc), 21st May to 14th Sept. (Norway);
blackcock (Sweden), 16th Mar. to 19th Aug. ; woodcock (Norway), 21st May
to 14th .Sept.; grouse and ptarmigan (H;/pe), 1st April to 14th Sept. in
Norway, 15th Mar. to 15th Aug. in Sweden; partridge ('/ia/j/(«'n«), 12th Nov.
to 9th Sept. in Sweden; ducks 1st Jan. to 9th July in Sweden; hare
(Hare), 15th Mar. to 14th Sept. in Norway, 16th Mar. to 19th Aug. in
Sweden; stags from 1st Oct. to 14th Aug. in Norway; deer from 1st Jan.
to 31st Aug. in Sweden. In Norway reindeer (Rensdyr) may be legally
shot only from the 1st to the 14th Sept. (inclusive) and elk (Elg, Elsdijr)
only from the 10th to the 30th Sept. (in Sweden, 1st to 15th Sept.). Rein-
deer shooting has, however, been prohibited until 1907.
For salmon (Lax) and sea-trout (Se-orret) in rivers, estuaries, and
lakes, the close season is frona 15th Sept. to 30th April.
Comp. 'Norwegian Anglings and Sportings', issued periodically
by Messrs. J. A. Lumley ^' Co., Lumley House, 34 St. James's St.,
London.
Skatisg and Ski-ing (i.e. snowshoeing in the native manner) may he
enjoyed at Christiania, Voss, and many other places in Norway between
the end of December and the beginning of March.
VIII. Maps. Books.
Maps. In maps of a vast country like the Scandinavian penin-
sula tliere is plenty of room for names ; but as it is thinly peopled
the names are apt to mislead, farm-houses and even 'sjeters' or
chalets being sometimes marked almost as boldly as Christiania it-
self. In the maps in the Handbook the names of unimportant
'gaards' have been omitted, but those of churches retained. When
a place has several different names the commonest is given.
In NoK-\vAY the series of Ordnance' Maps, begun in 1826, on the
scale of 1 : 200,000 (1 kr. per sheet), is all that is available for a
great part of the country. The older of these maps are often
indistinct, the plates having suffered from frequent use. A new
ordnance map in 200 sheets, on a scale of 1 : 100,000, called the
^Topografisk Kart over Kongeriget Norge\ and a less satisfactory
^Generalkart over det sydlige Norge' , on a scale of 1 : 400,000 (in
three colours; to be completed in 18 sheets), are now in progress.
Of the former less than the half had appeared in 1903 (GO e. per
sheet). — The most suitable travelling maps are ihe Reisekart over
det Sydlige og Nordlige Norge ^ on a scale of 1 : 800,000, prepared
from oflicial sources by P. Nissen (published by Cammermeyer of
Christiania; S. Norway in two sheets at 11/2 kr. each ; N. Norway,
four sheets, in two covers, at 2 kr. each), with the 'skyds-stations'
and tlie distances carefully marked, and Oscar Nieisen's Lomme-
Reisekart over Norge (1:400,000; same publishers; in fourteen
sections at 40-80 0. each), embracing the must frequented regions.
A ^Reisekart over Sendmere' by Kristofer /iander« (1 :250,000) was
published in 1894. Lastly we may mention Haffner iS' DahVs Kart
over Finmarkens Amt (1 : 400,000; two sheets).
Of SwKDKN there is an excellent new ordnance map, called
the ^Topografiska Corpsens Karta ofver Sverige' (water coloured
blue), on a scale of 1 : 100,000. In 1903 there had appeared 90
sheets, extending on the N. to Lake Venern and Gefle (V2-2 kr.
per sheet). — Another good map is the ^Generalkarta ofver Sveriye'
(1 : 1,000,000), in three sheets. For N. Sweden may be mentioned
the new 'Karta ofvtr Norrhottns IJin' (1:200,000; in 45 sheets).
The portions of this map specially useful to tourists have been
published together in a special cover (3 kr.) , by Dr. Frederick
Svenoniui, author of a guide to N. Sweden.
Books. Of the numerous books treating of Norway and Sweden
a few useful and accessible works are mentioned here: —
Abercromhy^ John, The Pre- and Proto-Historic Finns, Lond., 1899.
Baker, Mrs. Woods, Pictures of Swedish Life, London, 1895.
Brace, C. Loring, The Norse Folk, etc.. New York, 18.')?.
Bradshaw,J., Norway, its Fjords, Fjelds, and Fosses, Lond. , 1895.
Ihoch, Royaume de Norvi-ge, etc., 2nd ed., 1878.
Bri'ichner, Jessie, Danish Life in Town and Country, London, 190.^.
XXX VTTI. BOOKS.
Burton, General E.J'.,Tro«tinginNorway,Lond.,1897(foranglors).
Chapnvm, A., Wild Norway, Loiulon, 1897 (recommended to the
sportsman and naturalist).
Comparetll, Domenico, The Traditional Poetry of the Finns (Eugl.
trans, by Isabella M. Anderton ; London, 1899).
Du Chaillu, P. B., Land of the Midnight Sun, 2 vols., 1881.
Forbes, J. D., Norway and its Glaciers, Edin., 1853.
Godwin, Mary, Letters from Norway, 1796.
Goodman, E.J., Best Tour in Norway, London, new edition, 1903.
Hansen, H. M. , etc. Norway: official puhlication for the Paris.
Exhibition of 1900; translated by H. L. Brtekstad and others.
Hare, A.J. C, Sketches in Holland and Scandinavia, Lond., IHHf),
Hyne, CutcUffe, Through Arctic Lapland, London, 1898.
Keary, C. F., Norway and the Norwegians, London, 1892.
Lovett, Norwegian Pictures, 1885.
■•Old Bushman'", Ten Years in Sweden, London, 18(i5.
Oppenheim, E. ('., New Climbs in Norway, London, 1899 (Send-
m»re district).
OHe, Miss E. C, Denmark and Iceland, London, 1881.
Pritchelt, R. T., Gamle Norge, London, 1879.
Sandeman, Eraser, Angling Travels in Norway, London, 1895.
Schiibeler, Viridarium Norvegianum (good account of the flora).
Stone, O. M., Norway in June, London, 1889.
Sundbdrg, La Suede , son Peuple et son Lidustrie. Stockholm
1900 (about to be translated into English).
Taylor, Bayard, Northern Travel, London, 1857.
Thomas, W. W., Sweden and the Swedes, London, 1892.
'Three in Norway', by Two of Them, London, 1887.
Tweedie, Mrs. A., Winter Jaunt to Norway.
Vicary, J. F., An American in Norway, London, 1885.
Vincent, Norsk, Lapp, and Finn, 1881.
WiUson, Rev. Thomas B., History of the Church and State in
Norway, London, 1903.
Wood, C. W., Round about Norway, London, 1882.
— , Under Northern Skies, London, 1886.
— , Norwegian By- Ways, London, 1903.
IX. Names and their Meanings.
The spelling and pronunciation of the names of Scandinavian
places is very variable. In Sweden the modified a and o are writ-
ten a and o, in Norway usually cp and 0, while a and 0 also occur,
the latter being sometimes used to indicate the short sound of the
letter. Again in Norway aa (or a), au, ou, and 0 are frequently
interchanged, as in La.ag (Lag), Laug, Long, or Log, 'river', and
HaugOT Houy, 'hill'. The vowels 0, u, ei, 01, and e are also frequently
interchanged, their pronunciation remaining nearly identical, so
that the same word will sometimes assume such various forms as
IX NAMES AND THEIR MEANINGS. xxxi
Synjereim, Sennerhetm, or Sennerum, Bredheim or Breum, Marok,
Mirruak, or Merok, Eulfjord or 0ifjord. The letter d in combin-
ation with other consonants or at the end of a word is usually mute,
and therefore often omitted (as Meheia for Medheia, Haukeli for
Haukelid, Grotli for Grotlid, etc.). Lastly, g and fc, when hard, are
often used indifferently , as Agershus or Akershus , Egersund or
Ekersund, Vig or Vik. The article en or ef (see grammar in the
appendix) is often added in common speech to names which appear
in the map without it [Krogleven, Kroglev, etc.). In Danish or Nor-
wegian the letter w does not occur, but in Swedish v and w are con-
stantly interchanged.
In hoth countries the traveller will often be struck by the
primitiveness of the nomenclature, many names signifying merely
'the creek', 'the promontory', 'the lake', 'the end of the lake',
'the river", 'the river-valley', 'the valley-river'. Farm-houses again
are usually named after their proprietors , and the converse is
often the case. The following is a list of several common Norwe-
gian words (tp and 0 being placed last in the alphabet) : —
Aak, Ok, yriibubly cun- Uei, Heia, barren height. Stabbur, storehouse.
traded from Aaker or //eJ^e, slab, rock, cliff. SteL Stul^ see 'Sitter".
A(/er, field, cultivated Hyl, JInl, hollow, basin. Stue , wooden house,
land. Jekiil, glacier. steter, hut.
Aar., from Aa, river. Juv, gorge, precipice. Sund, strait, ferry.
Atts, riilgf. Kile, liay. Tind, peak.
Aur, see 0re. Kirke, church. Tjwrn, Tjern, or Kjtem,
Bakke, hill. Kiev, clilf. mountain-lake, 'tarn'.
Iji\i;. glacier. Kolie, hill. Tuft, Tomt,sHe. ui'hi)\i»e,
J!u, liu, 'Gaard', hamlet. Kvam, Qvam, ravine. plot of ground (English
hij, town, village. Laag, Log, Laug, Loug, and Scotch provincial
Hyyd , parish , district, river. 'toft\ 'toom'j.
hamlet. Lund, grove, thicket. Tveit (ling, 'thwaite'),
Ikil, valley. Lykke, hamlet, garden. clearing.
t!yg. corner, edge, ridge. Mark, field. Uf, rubble, loose stones.
Kid or Eide, isthmus, Mo, Mog, plain, dale. Vaag, bay, harbour.
neck of land. Mork, Meik, forest; also Vand, Vain, water, lake.
Elv, river. a 'mountain-tracl'. Vang, meadow, pasture.
/>'a,'i'«, ebb-tide, the beach Noes, nose, promontory. Vas, contracted genitive
expo.ied at ebb-tide. iVu<, mountain-top, peak. of 'Vand'.
Fjeld, mountain. Odde , tongue of land, Vig, Vik, creek.
/•yo/"(i. ljay,armof thesea. promontory. ¥el, sandy slope.
Eos, Eors, waterfall. Os, tis, mouth, estuary. 0, island.
0««/'ii,farm-house(Engl. Plads, hamlet, clearing. .0'(;,.6''y,peninsula, tongue
'yard'). Prastegaavd, pai-sonage. of land.
Oald, rocky slope. <Ste<e»', 'chalet', mountain £fre , Mlyv , alluvial or
Wfi^Mi/, group of chalets. farm, cowhe.rd.'i' hut. gravelly soil, tongue
Iluiig, Hviuj, hill. Sj0, Se, lake. of land.
Many places have two or more names, one usually applying to
the church, another to the principal 'gaard', a third to the posting-
station, and so on, the number of names being sometimes in an in-
verse ratio to the importance of the place.
X. On the Physical Geography of Scandinavia.
Situation. Geological Formation. Coast Line.
Scandinavia, the largest peninsula in Europe, embracing the
kingdom of Norway on the W. and N. sides, Sweden on the E. and
S., and part of Russia to the N.E., is about 296,500 Engl. sq. M.
in area. It extends from S.S.W. to N.N.E. between 57° 57' and
71° 11' N. latitude, being upwards of 1100 Engl. M. in length.
Between the Gulf of Bothnia and the N.W. coast its breadth is about
260 Engl. M., and towards the S. it gradually increases, though
at the point where the Trondhjem P'jord forms a deep indentation
it narrows to 160 M. Farther to the S., in latitude GO" (that of
Christiania and Upsala), the width increases to 435 M., beyond
which Norway forms a rounded peninsula ending in Cape Lindes-
n.-es (58° 59'"), while the S. part of Sweden forms another pen-
insula to the S.E. of the Christiania Fjord, gradually narrowing,
and terminating in the promontory of Falsterbo (5.5° 20' j near Co-
penhagen. The entire coast-line of the peninsula, disregarding
its innumerable indentations, measures 2060 M. in length , the
part between Cape LindesniBS and Vadse alone measuring 1250 M.
The peninsula contains no distinctly connected mountain-ranges
like those in most other countries, but mainly consists in its W,
part of a vast elevated plateau, descending abruptly to the western
fjords and sloping gradually down to the plains of Sweden and the
Gulf of Bothnia on the E. side. Roughly speaking, a line drawn
parallel with the W. coast, about 50-60 Engl. M. inland, marks
the boundary of the mountain-plateau, the W. margin of which is
deeply indented with innumerable bays and creeks, and fringed
M'ith a belt of countless rocky islands. The latter are known as
Skjar (Sw. skar), and the island-belt as the Skjargaard (skdrgard).
To different parts of the mountain-plateau are applied tlie names
of Fjeld ('fell'), Heidar ('heights'), and 17(Mer ('widths', barren
expanses), and in the N. part of the peninsula Kjeler ('mountain
ranges'), and from it rise at intervals rounded and occasionally
pointed peaks of considerable height.
The Mountains are composed almost entirely of primary rocks,
presenting nearly the same form as when originally solidified, and
are rarely overlaid with more recent formations, so that for the ge-
ologist they possess the charm of the most hoar antiquity. These
primary rocks consist of granite, gneiss, mica, hornblende, slate,
quarzite, clay-slate, limestone, and dolomite, disposed in strata,
corresponding with which are occasional well-defined layers of
later slate-formations and particularly of limestone. At places,
notably in the Romsdal, or Valley of the Rauma, the gneiss , the
oldest of these rocks, towers in most imposing pinnacles, 5000-
6000 ft. in height, unencumbered by any later formations. That
X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxiii
valley extends from the Moldefjord to the S.E., iutersectiug the
pure gneiss rock, which rises on each side in almost perpendicular
cliffs, 2000-3000 ft. in height, and is afterwards prolonged by
the Gudbrandsdal descending to Lake Mjasen. In grandeur of
rock-scenery, and in the purity of its formation, this magnificent
valley is hardly inferior to the far-famed Yosemite Valley of the
Sierra Nevada in California.
About the year 1840 rocks of the Silurian Formation were
discovered by geologists near the Christiania Fjord, and other depo-
sits of that period have since been found in Skane, Vester-Got-
liind, the island of Gotland, Herjeadalen, und Jemtland in Swe-
den, and also on the banks of Lake Mjesen and in Trondhjems
Stift in Norway, but nowhere of great extent. The largest Silurian
basin in the peninsula is that of the Storsjo in Jemtland, a lake
of 2570 Engl. sq. M. in area.
One of the most instructive sections of the country is formed
by the route from Sundsvall in Sweden to Ostersund on the Storsjo
and Trondhjem in Norway. The primitive crystalline rocks of
Jemtland are first replaced by limestone, extending to the E.
bank of the lake, where the Silurian formations begin. These
stretch westwards to the great mountain-backbone of Sweden and
Norway. On this route rises Areskutan, the highest mountain in
Sweden (p. 384), part of the base of which on the E. and W. sides
belongs to the Silurian formation, while the primary rocks, con-
sisting of quartzite, hornblende, mica-slate, and gneiss, protrude
through it all the way to the summit. From this vantage-ground
we obtain an excellent idea of the character of the Scandinavian
mountains. Many of the hills, rounded and worn by glacier-action,
are almost entirely bare , or clothed only with lichens (Cetraria
cucullata nivalis, Croniciilaria ochroleuca, etc.), and present an
exceedingly sombre and dreary appearance. The slopes of the
intervening basins are often well wooded, but the lower plateaux
are mainly covered with vast tracts of lake and marsh.
Coal occurs here and there in the peninsula. The coal-measures
of Helsingborg at the S. extremity of the peninsula are of con-
siderable extent. On the island of Ande, one of the Vesteraalen
group, in latitude 09°, a bed of coal was also recently discovered
at the mouth of the Ramsaa, the organic remains in which prove
that the island must have undergone violent convulsions about the
period when the coal was formed. Under the sea extends a thick
scam of coal, above which lie strata of sandstone, clay-slate, and
later coal, extending into the island. The island must therefore
have once been larger than now, and thickly clothed with vege-
tation , after which it appears to have been submerged and then
upheaved anew.
The configuration of the mainland must at one time have differ-
ed greatly from its present form. That it was once higher above
Babdkkbs's Horway and Sweden. 8th Edit. c d
xxxiv X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
the sea than now is proved by the nature of the coast with its
■water and ice-worn fjords, straits, and isthmuses (Eide). On the
other hand the sea appears within recent centuries to have receded
at places. This was lirst observed by Celsius (d. 1744) and Linnceus
(d. 1778), who caused marks to be made on the rocks at Kalmar
and Gefle with a view to measure the retrocession of the sea , by
the German naturalist Jieit at Varde in 1769, and by L. von Buck,
the geologist, in 1807. Throughout a vast tract, extending from
Spitzbergen to about latitude 62", the whole country is ascertained
to be gradually rising, or the sea to be receding. In the Altenfjord,
near Hammerfest, there are ancient coast-lines 620 ft. above the
present sea-level, and others gradually decreasing in height extend
all the way to Trondhjem and still farther S., while at Trondhjcm
itself it is well authenticated that the coast has risen 20 ft. within
1000 years. At Tornea, at the head of the Gulf of Bothnia, the ground
is even said to have risen 5 ft. in a century ; in the Aland Islands,
farther to the S., a rise of 3 ft. within the same time has been ob-
served ; while at Karlskrona no change of level has been detected. To
the S. of Karlskrona, on the other hand, a gradual depression of the
land or encroachment of the sea appears to be taking place. These
calculations are probably not very trustworthy, but careful measure-
ments made at eleven different places between 1839 and 1865
proved that the average rise of the coast-line between Maasef and
Christiania during that period was 1 foot. According to Kjerulf,
the most eminent of the Norwegian geologists, the elevation of the
coast has taken place fitfully, as several facts tend to prove. Thus
it will generally be observed that in all the Norwegian valleys and
fjords there are several distinct terraces, between which there is a
sudden and well-defined dip, and that the old coast-lines, with
their heaps of debris , descend abruptly at their lower ends at an
angle of 25-30". Again it will be noticed that the different water-
levels on the rocks are marked by a kind of disintegrated pathway
or furrow, each separated from its neighbour by a comparatively
intact and unworn surface.
With regard to the Glaciers of Norway, the traveller will ob-
serve that all the most important are situated to the S. of latitude
67°, The largest is the Jostedalsbra (jp. 130), lying between lat.
61° and 62°, 515 Engl. sq. M. in area, and the largest glacier in
Europe. In form it resembles an enormous roof, from which a
number of offshoots descend to within 150-200 ft. of the sea-level.
A similar ice -mantle is that of the Folge fond (jp. 104), a little
to the S. of lat. 60°, and another of vast extent is that of Suart-
isen (p. 239), within the Arctic Circle. The upper parts of these
glaciers form immense and nearly level expanses of dazzling ice
and snow, unbroken by moraines or crevasses, except where their
ramifications descend into the valleys, or by peaks rising above
them. These plateaux of ice correspond with the mountain
X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxv
configuration peculiar to Norway, and on a small scale they afford
an idea of the character of the glaciers which once covered the
whole country. Of that glacier-period numerous traces still exist
in Scandinavia. Striated rocks are everywhere observable, from
the coast -line upwards; the de'bris of moraines is distributed
over every part of the country ; and the soil formed by glacier
friction now forms good cultivable land and affords abundant
material for brick-making. Erratic Blocks seem to have been
llrst deposited in S. Sweden by the glaciers on their southward
course, and they abound in N. Germany, sometimes lying a
few feet only below the surface of the soil , sometimes clustered
together with sand, mud , and gravel, and rising into hills of 70-
185 ft. in height, called Asar in Sweden , and known in Ireland
and Scotland as escars and kames.
The coast is indented with innumerable Fjords, most of
which have minor ramifications. Similar indentations occur in
the precipitous W. coast of N. America , extending northwards
from the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and on the S. American coast, to
the S. of the Island of Ohiloe, and on a smaller scale there are
numerous fjords on the W. and E. coasts of Greenland, in Spitz-
bergen, Nova Zembla, and on the W. coasts of Iceland, Scotland,
and Ireland. All these fjord-formations cease within 40-50° from
the equator, and at the same time they generally correspond with
the rainiest regions of the countries where they occur. The E. coast
of Scandinavia was probably also at one time indented with fjords,
to which the numerous inland lakes once belonged, but which have
gradually been filled up by the alluvial deposits of the rivers. That
the fjords have been formed, as would naturally be supposed, by
the erosive action of ice and water, seems to be disproved by the
fact that they are often much deeper than the sea beyond their
mouths. The Sognefjord, for example, is no less than 4100 ft.
deep at places. The fact appears rather to be that these basins
existed before the glacier era. They are generally narrow and
deep, and, with the exception of those in E. Finmarken, they lie
at right angles to the axis of the mountains. On the banks of the
fjords usually extends a strip of fertile and sheltered land which
has attracted a considerable population.
The immense and intricate archipelago of the Skjsergaard
(skargard), or island-belt, which affords admirable shelter to the
coasting steamers, accompanies nearly the whole of the Scandina-
vian coast from Vadse to Haparanda. The only considerable inter-
vals are in the Arctic Ocean near the North Cape, off the mouth of
the Foldenfjord (Qiy.2°)) ofi Jaderen and L<«<er (between 58° and
59°), and opposite the coasts of Halland and Skane in Sweden.
Within tlie Arctic Circle are a considerable number of large islands,
the Kvale, on which Hammerfest is situated, the Seiland, Sere,
c*
xxxvi X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Stjerne, Kaage, Ame, Varne, Ringvadse, and Hvale ; between
the last and the mainland is the Tromse , with the town of that
name; then Senjen and the Vcsteraalen and Lofoten Islands. Of
the last-named group the first is the Hlnde, the largest island in
Norway (870 Engl. sq. M.), to the S. of which there are others of
considerable size. All these islands, particularly those near the
Arctic Circle, are mountainous, and many of them present strik-
ingly picturesque forms. Among the finest are the Hestmandse,
Threnen, Lovunden, Alstene with the '■Seven Sisters', and the sin-
gular Torghatten, all of which are described in the Handbook
(pp. 233-261).
The great resource of the busy coast-population is the Cod
Fishery, besides which the Herring, Oyster, and Lobster Fisheries
and Seal Hunting yield a considerable revenue. The great flshing-
banks of the Lofoten Islands are mentioned at p. 244. These
fisheries support a population of no less than 100,000 souls. The
annual yield of t)ie cod-fishery is estimated at 1,300,000^, and
that of the seal-hunting (Phoca vitulina) at 55,(3O0l, while about
a million and a half of lobsters are annually exported to England
alone. Herrings formerly abounded near Stavanger, but disap-
peared from 1784 to 1808, during which period cod were abundant
in that neighbourhood. In 1808 the cod in their turn disappeared
and the herring returned, but since 1869 the former have again
been found in their old haunts. The shoals of cod and herring are
usually attended by a kind of whale (Balenoptera musculus), which
was formerly supposed to prey on the latter, but this is ascertained
to be erroneous. The oyster-fishery is chiefly carried on on the S.
coast near Kragere, and on the W. coast near Finnaas in Send-
horland, near Lindaas in Nordhorland, near Vestnas in the Roms-
dalsfjord, by the Bjare, and near Vigten in the Namsdal. The sal-
mon-fishery is also of considerable importance. Among the most
famous rivers are the Drammens-Elv, the Numedalslaag, the Ongne-
F.lv in Jaederen, the Suledals-Etv in Ryfyike, the Rauma and Driva
in the Romsdal, the Gula nearTrondhjem, the Namsen in the Nams-
dal, and the Alten-Elv and Tana in Finmarken.
These valuable resources of the coast-districts, compared with
which the Opland or inland districts offer little or no attraction to
settlers, have also given rise to the important Maritime Trade of
Norway, the foundation of which was laid by the piratical Vikings
(inhabitants of 'Viker' or creeks), whose expeditions extended to
Constantinople, and who discovered Iceland, Greenland, and N.
America ('Vinland' ; 500 years earlier than Columbus). On some
of the fjords still exist the tumuli of these early navigators, who
sometimes caused themselves to be buried along with their vessels.
The commercial fleet of Norway now ranks next to those of Great
Britain and the United States. Timber for ship-building purposes
is abundant.
X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxvii
The E. coast of the peninsula is less favourahle for navigation,
especially as many of the harbours have altered their position or
been rendered shallow by the gradual rise of the coast-line, and
accordingly few of the vikings had their headquarters there. The
coasting-trade of Stockholm, however, and the inland lake and
canal-traflic are of considerable importance.
Mountains, Lakes, and Rivers.
Owing to the sudden (iescent of the mountains on the W.
coast the streams on that side of the peninsula all have the char-
acter of torrents , while on the E. side they take the form of
long, narrow lakes, connected by rivers and often by waterfalls.
The mountains in the northern part of the peninsula, bordering
on Russia, rarely exceed 1000 ft. in height, but they become
loftier as we proceed towards the S.W. , rising to imposing
dimensions on the Lyngenfjonl (p. 260) and at the head of the
Saltenfjord (p. 242"), where the Sulltelmn forms the boundary
between the sister kingdoms. To the S. of the great glacier-moun-
tains of Svartisen (p. 239) the mountains decrease in height, and
a number of large lakes send their waters eastwards to the Baltic,
while the Namsen and Snaasen descend to the well-cultivatetl
plains on the Trondhjem Fjord. Farther to the S. the mountains,
such as the JomafjeUl, Kjelhaugen, Areskutan in Sweden, and the
Syltoppe, again attain a height of 4000-5000 ft., while the islands
off the coast contain mountains of similar height. In latitude 63"
the main range divides, the backbone of the peninsula continuing
to run southwards, while a branch diverges to the W. nearly at a
right angle. In the central range are the sources of the Oster and
\'eiter DiU-Elf,\\h\ch afterwards unite and descend to the S.E. to
the Gulf of Bothnia. Adjoining the same range lies the Famund-
Sje, out of which flows the Famunds-Elv, afterwards called the
Klar-Elf, and falling into Lake Venern, whence it descends under
the name of the Gbta-Elf to the Kattegat. A little to the N. of the
Fsemund-Sje lies the Aursund-Sje, the source of the Glommen,
the largest river in Norway, which forms the im^o&ing Sarpsfos at
Sarpsborg and falls into the Skager-Rack at Fredrikstad. Near the
same hike rises the Guta, which descends to the N.W. to Trond-
hjem; and through the valleys of these two rivers runs the impor-
tant railway from Christiania to Lake Mjescn , the copper- mines
of l\0ros, and Trondhjem.
Between the Fremund-Sje and the Glommen rise the lofty
Hmnmclfjeld, Tronfjeld, and Elgepig, and between the Glommen
and the Gudbraiulsdal tower the isolated RCndnne. To the
N.W. of the latter stretches the Dovre.fjeld, culminating in the
Snchtetta (p. 72), formerly supposed to be the highest mountain
ill Norway. To the W of this point, and to the N.W. of the Gud-
xxxviii X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
braudsdal, stretch the gneiss mountains of the Romsdal, already
mentioned. The mountains to the S. of the Romsdal are usually
known as the Langfjelde, which include the Jostedalshra with the
Lodalskaupe and extend to the Horungerfjeld and the Jotunhehn
Mountains. To the last-named group belongs the Ymesfjeld, a
huge mass of granite nearly 10 Engl. M. in breadth, culminating
in the Galdhepig (p. 157), and surrounded by rocks of the trans-
ition period. Farther to the S. lie the extensive Lukes Gjende,
Tyin, and Bygdin, enclosed by imposing mountains, belonging
like the Horunger to the easily disintegrated 'gabbro' formation,
and remarkable for picturesqueness of form. All these mountains
are covered with perpetual snow , except the highest and most
precipitous peaks, on which the snow cannot lie.
The southern mountains of Norway, which also run from N.E.
to S.W., are bounded by the Sognefjord on the N.W. , by the
Ghristiania Fjord on the S.W., and by a line drawn on the E. side
from the Fillefjeld to Christiania. Between the Sognefjord and
the Hardanger Fjord are the isolated plateaux of the Vosseskai^l,
the Hardanger Jekul, and the Halllngskarv, rising above the snow
line. The Hardanger Fjeld is separated by the innermost branch
of the Hardanger Fjord from the Folgefond (p. 104), an extensive
snow-clad mountain with several peaks. To the S.E. of the Har-
danger Fjord stretches the extensive Hardanger Vidda, with peaks
!-)000-4600 ft. in height, which gradually slope on the E. and S.
sides. Farther to the E. are the deep valleys of the picturesque
region of Telemarken, which frequently intersect each other. The
E. outpost of the whole of this mountain-region is the Skogs-
horn, to the N. of the Hallingdal. Farther to the PL are the Nume-
dal, Halilngdal, and Valders valleys, descending towards the S.,
beyond which we again meet with a number of transverse val-
leys, containing the most fertile land in Norway (such as Hade-
land on the Randsfjord and Ringerike on the Tyrifjord). The
mountains then descend to the plain of Jarlsberg and Laurvik.
Among their last spurs are the Gausta and the Lidfjeld in Tele-
marken, and the isolated Norcfjeld, rising between lake Krederen
and the Eggedal.
The mountains extending towards the S.E. next enter the
Herjeadal and Vermland in Sweden, where they contain valu-
able iron ores, particularly in Vermland, Dalarne, and Vesterman-
land. The range next runs between I^akes Venern and Vetteru,
where it is called Tiveden, and extends to the E. under the names
of the Tydbskog and Kolmarden. It then intersects the province
of Gollund aud forms the plateau of Smaland to the S. of Lake
Vetteru. An important spur a little to the S. of that lake is the
Taberg, a hill containing about 30 per cent of iron ore. 'i^lie hills
then gradually slope down to the plains of Skane and Halland,
where there are a few insignificant heights only. In the plains of
,X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxix
Gotland rise the isolated KinnekuUe on Lake Veuern, the Halle-
berg, the Hunneberg, and the Ornberg.
The Swedish islands of Gotland^ unA. Oland contain no hills
above 210 ft. in height.
Of comparatively late geological formation Ms the Swedish
Basin extending from the Skager-Rack throughj' Lakes Venern
and Yetteru to Lake Miilaien, the land to the S. of which was
probably once an island. These lakes are believed to have once
formed a waterway to the Gulf of Finland, which again was prob-
ably connected with the White Sea , and this theory is borne
out by the fact that a kind of crayfish found in the White Sea
and Lake Venern does not exist in the Atlantic or in the Baltic.
The modern canal -routejjconnecting these lakes is described in
RR. 45-48.
The coast to the N. of Stockholm is flat, and intersected by
numerous rivers and long lakes, at the mouths of which lie a
number of towns chiefly supported by the timber-trade. One of the
most important lakes is the picturesque Siljan (p. 375), through
which the Oster-Dal-Elf flows. Below Falun that river joins the
Vester-Dai-Klf, and their united waters form a fine cataract at
Elfkarleby. Of the many other rivers the most important are the
picturesque Angerman-Elf (j^. 389), theI/Mie-£i/'(p. 397), and the
Torne-Elf {jp. 404). The last, the longest of all, is connected by a
branch with the parallel river Kalix. Most of these eastern rivers
are rather a series of lakes connected by rapids and waterfalls. The
heavy rainfall among the mountains, descending into the valleys
where the sun has not power to evaporate it, forms these lakes
and extensive swamps, the overflow of which descends from basin
to basin till it reaches the sea. The lower ends of these rivers
are generally navigable for some distance. Steamboats ply on the
Angerman-Klf and the Lule-Elf.
Climate and Vegetation.
Temperature. Judging from the degrees of latitude within
which the peninsula lies , one would expect the climate to
be uniformly severe and inclement, but this is only the case on
the E. coast and among the central mountains. The climate of the
W. coast is usually mild, being influenced by the Atlantic and
the Gulf Stream which impinges upon it. In the same latitude in
which Franklin perished in the Arctic regions of America, and in
which lies the almost uninhabitable region of E. Siberia, the water
of these western fjords of Norway never freezes except in their
upper extremities. As we proceed from W. to E., and in some
degree even from N. to S., the temperate character of the climate
changes, and the winters become more severe. The climate is
perhaps most equable at Skudesncrs, near Stavanger, where the
mean temperature of.Tanuary is 3-i.7"Fahr. , and that of July on. 4":
xl X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
difference 20.7°. At Stockholm, on the other hand, the mean tem-
perature of January is '24.8", and that of July 63.5°: difference
38.7°. The difference is still greater in many places farther to the
N., as at Jockmock (66° 36' N. lat. ; 925 ft. above the sea), where
the January temperature is 3.2°, that of July 57.92°, and the differ-
ence 54.90°. The tract lying between the Varanger Fjord and the
Gulf of Bothnia, the interior of Finmarken and Lapland, and the
southern mountains above the height of 2300 ft., all have an an-
nual mean temperature below the freezing point. Some of the
other isothermal lines are curious. Thus the line which marks a
mean January temperature of 32° Fahr. runs from the Lofoten
Islands southwards, passing a little to the E. of Bergen and through
the inner part of the Stavanger Fjord. It then turns to the S.E.
to Cape Lindesnaes, and thence to the N.E. towards the Christia-
nia Fjord, and southwards to Gotenburg and Copenhagen. The
line marking a mean January temperature of 23° passes through
Hammerfest, Saltdalen, Reros, Christiania, and Upsala. In the
depth of winter, therefore, the Lofoten Islands are not colder than
Copenhagen, nor Hammerfest than Christiania. Again, while the
mean temperature of the whole year at the North Cape is 35.6", it
is no higher at Ostersund in Jemtland, 552 Engl. M. farther
south. Lastly, while the climate on the W. coast is comparatively
equable throughout the year, that of the E. coast and the interior
of the country is made up of a long, severe winter and a short and
sometimes oppressively hot summer. The average temperature of
the sea is 3l/o-7° warmer than the air, being of course lower than
that of the air in summer and higher in winter. The healthiest
part of the peninsula is probably the island of Karme, where the
death-rate is only 12 per thousand. The average rate for Norway
is 19, for Sweden 20 per thousand.
Rainfall. In the interior of Norway less rain falls than on the
coast. In Sweden the greatest rainfall is between Gefie and Goten-
burg. The mean rainfall in Sweden is 20.28 inches , that of
Gotenburg 28.18, and that of the E. coast 16.88 Inches. August
is the rainiest month in Sweden , especially in the N. provinces.
In Norway the maximum rainfall is at Floref, where it sometimes
reaches 90-91 inches per annum ; on the S. coast the average is
about 40 inches, and on the W. coast, to the S. and N. of Flore,
70-75 inches. August and September are the rainiest months in
the E. districts of Norway, but on the W. coast the rainy season
is rather later. June and July are therefore the best months
for travelling in Sweden and the E. districts of Norway, and July
and August for the W. coast. In the neighbourhood of the Roms-
dal the rainy season does not usually set in before December.
Hail and thunderstorms are rare in Norway. The latter, however,
are sometimes very violent on the W. coast, where no fewer than
forty churches have been destroyed by lightning within tlie last
X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
xli
150 years. The fullo-wiiig table shows the mean temperature and
average rainfall in different parts of Norway : —
K.5
a c
Vardei ....
Nybovy ....
Fruholmen . .
Alten
Tromse . . .
Andences . . .
Bode
Itanen ....
Brene ....
VUereen . . .
Chi'istianssund
42 70°
fO°
29
39
26
36 '67°
46 1 66°
38 65°
250 63°
66 63°
39'|35,
45 -
30 -
42
62
96
48
48
22
28
30.55
34.34
0OJ22.36
16 37.48
Ona ....
Dovt-e . . .
Beros . . .
Flore . . .
Bergen . .
Ullensvany
Skudesnws
Lindesnces
Mandal . .
Sandesund
CJtrisHcinia
5262°
216062°
206062°
2961"
4960°
33 60°
36 59°
2957°
56 58°
4259°
79'59°
44.24
32.54
27. 5
43.85
44.60
44.78
44.78
14.39
75.27
72.25
42.83
44.24 —
43.85 55.11
43.85 23.14
55'|41.36i21.19
AiB, Pbessuee. The pressure of the air in January is greatest
in the interior of N. Norway and lowest in Finmarken. In July it
is highest on the W. coast and lowest in the interior. The pre-
vailing winds in winter are accordingly land-winds, which are fre-
quently diverted towards the N. and follow the line of the coast.
In summer, on the other hand, W. and S.W. winds prevail, blow-
ing towards the region where the air-pressure is lowest, also fre-
quently following the line of the coast towards the N., and rarely
impinging on the coast at a right angle. The most prevalent wind
blows from the S.W., and on the coast is usually accompanied with
dull weather, but this is less the case in the interior. The most
violent storms, which prevail chiefly in winter, come from the same
quarter. The mountains form a boundary between two distinct
climates, the W. wind being the dampest on the W. coast and the
driest in the interior.
The Vegetation, as might be expected from the climate and
the geological features of the peninsula, is generally poor, but the
flora is unusually rich for so northern a region. About 25,750
Engl. sq. M. are covered with forest, chiefly pines, the wood of
which is valuable owing to the closeness of the rings which
mark its annual growth. Next in frequency are the oak , the
birch, the elm, and the beech. Other trees occur also, but
not in the forests. The beech , which suifers more from cold than
the oak, but does not require so high a mean temperature, rarely
occurs in Sweden N. of Kalmar, while the oak is found as far N.
as Gefle. In Norway, on the other hand , the beech extends to a
point beyond Bergen , and the red beech even occurs at Troud-
hjem. Near Laurvik , in latitude 59-59 Y2°, the beech is found in
considerable plantations. ■ — The apple-tree (Pyrus mains) occurs
xlii . X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
as far as 65" 10' N. lat., the plum (Prunus domestica) up to 64",
and the cherry to 6G°, while currauts (Ribes nigrum and rubrum),
gooseberries (Ribes grossularia) , strawberries (Fragaria vesca),
raspberries (Rubus idaeusj, and the common bilberry (Vaccinium
myr I ilius ) occuT as far north as the North Cape.
Wheat is cultivated as far as QA^/o", and in the S. districts up
to a height of 1000-1250 ft. above the sea ; Rye grows as far N. as
()9°, and in the S. up to a height of 1950 ft. ; Barley and Oats
occur up to 70°, and in the S. to a height of 2050 ft. above the
sea. Botanists are referred to the instructive works of Schuebeler
and Axel Blytt. — The cultivated land in Norway occupies the
insignificant area of 1074 Engl. sq. M., but in Sweden 10,678sq. M.
Ju the northern regions the Oxyria remiformis, a kind of sorrel,
is largely cultivated as a substitute for corn. It is kept in a frozen
condition in winter and boiled down to a pulp for use, being fre-
quently mixed with flour and made into Fladbred. In the S.
districts, however, the 'flat bread' is usually made of wheat or
barley flour mixed with mashed potatoes , and sometimes with
pease-meal. The Lapps mix their bread with reindeer-milk and
sometimes with the bitter Mulgedium alpinum , which is believed
to be a preventive of scurvy.
It is a curious fact that barley takes exactly the same time
(90 days) to ripen at Alten (70° N. lat.) as at Christiauia and in
the S. of France, but it is now generally believed that the great
length of the Arctic days compensates for the lack of warmth. The
seed, however, if brought from a warmer climate, requires to be
acclimatised, and does not yield a good crop until after two or three
seasons , so that the effects of a bad harvest are felt for several
succeeding years.
The traveller will also observe that the leaves of most of the
trees which occur in the northern districts of Norway are largei
than those of trees of the same kind in the southern regions. Thus
the leaves of maples and plane-trees (Acer platanoides and pseudo-
■platanus) transplanted from Christiania to Tromserhave been found
to increase greatly in size , while the trees themselves become
dwarfed in their growth. This leaf development is also attributed
to the long continuance of the sunlight in summer. It would be
interesting to know what effects the protracted light produces on
the colours of flowers and the flavour of fruits , but these points
have not yet been investigated.
The Animal Kingdom comprises most of the domestic and other
animals common in Great Britain , besides many which are now
extinct there, and a number of others peculiar to the Arctic regions.
Among the animals most characteristic of the country are the iQin-
Aeei (Cervus tarandus), an exceedingly useful mammal , and the
sole support of the nomadic Lapps, and the lemming (Oeorychus
X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xliii
lemmus), a rodent, somewhat resembling a water-rat. Among
beasts of prey the bear and the wolf are still common in many
parts of the country, and the lynx and glutton occasionally occur.
For killing any one of these the government offers a reward of lb
crowns. Conspicuous among large game is the handsome elk
('Elsdyr' ; Cerous aloes'), now becoming rare, next to which rank
the reindeer and the red deer. The finest of the wildfowl is the
capercailzie ('Tjur' ; Tetraourogallus) , after which come the
ptarmigan ('Rype'; Lagopus mutus) and hazel -grouse ('Hjerpe';
Tetrao bonasid). Partridges rarely occur in Norway, but abound
in the S. of Sweden, where they were introduced about the year
ioOO. The most valuable of the wildfowl, however, is the eider-
duck ('Eder'; Anas molllssima'), which is most abundant within
the Arctic Circle. The down of the female, which she uses in
making her nest, is gathered in the 7)(tni'(Pr of Finmarken, yield-
ing a considerable revenue.
The Population is now almost exclusively of Gothic origin, but
the oldest element consists of tixeLapps and theFinns, who were prob-
ably the aboriginal inhabitants of the country and who both belong
to the Ugrian race. Their languages are both of the Turanian stock
(^akin to Hungarian), and are said by Castren , the philologist, to
have been identical some 2000 years ago. The Lapps now number
about '24,000 only in Norway and Sweden , and the Finns about
22,000 souls. They are both of the Mongolian type, with high
cheek-bones, low foreheads, full lips, narrow eyes, blunt noses,
and yellowish complexions, but the Finns are. now by far the su-
perior race, both physically and mentally. The names usually
applied to them are not used by themselves. The Lapps ('nomads")
call themselves Sami or Sahmelads, and the Finns ('fen-dwellers")
Suomi. — The dominant race, by which the Lapps have been well-
nigh extinguished , is of the Aryan or Indo-Germanic stock , and
is believed to liave begun to settle in the peninsula before the
birth of Christ (see p. xiiv). With regard to their language, see the
grammars at the end of the volume. — The total population of
Norway is about 2,231,000, that of Sweden about 5,000,000. The
annual increase, which is slow, owing to the frequency of emigra-
tion, now amounts in Norway to about 22,000, and in Sweden to
!57,000 per annum.
xliv
XI. History of Sweden and Norway.
Prehistoric Period. The earliest antiquities in Scandinavia
belong to the Flint Period, during -which the peninsula appears to
have been inhabited by the same race as Denmark and N. Ger-
many. Their rude implements indicate that they possessed fixed
dwelling-places and cattle, and were acquainted with the art of
fishing and probably of hunting also. They buried their dead in
large stone tomb-chambers. This epoch was succeeded by the
Brokze Period, when implements and ornaments in bronze and
even in gold were first imported, and afterwards manufactured by
the natives themselves. Agriculture was now regularly practised,
and the same domestic animals were used as at the present day.
The tombs of this period sometimes contain cinerary urns , and
sometimes bones unconsumed. During this and the preceding
period the population seems to have been confined to Skane and
Vester-Gotland. Lastly, about the time of the birth of Christ,
begins the Iron Period, when the use of that metal was intro-
duced from Central Europe. At the same time silver and glass
make their appearance , and Roman coins and 'bracteates' (orna-
mental disks of metal) are occasionally found.
During this period also the contents of tombs prove that the
dead were sometimes burned and sometimes buried in coffins. The
cinerary urns are usually of terracotta, rarely of bronze. Among
other curiosities which have been found in the tombs are trinkets
and weapons, some of which appear to have been purposely broken.
To this period also belong the earlier Runic Inscriptions, in a large
character differing from that afterwards used. Quite distinct from
the earlier part of this era is the Later Iron Period, which be-
gan in Sweden about the year 500 or 600, and in Norway about
the year 700 A. D. The Runic inscriptions of this period are in
the smaller character, and the language had by this time attained
to nearly the same development as that used by the later MSS.,
while the native workmanship exhibits evidence of a new and in-
dependent, though still barbarous, stage of culture.
To what race the inhabitants of Scandinavia during the first
and second of these periods belonged is uncertain, but it is sup-
posed that they were of the aboriginal Finnish stock. That the
relics of the following periods were left by a different race is most
probable, as no antiquities have been found which show a gradual
transition from the bronze to the early iron period, and it is well
ascertained that the inhabitants of the S. parts of the peninsula
were of Germanic origin, both during the earlier and later iron
periods. It has also been ascertained that the older Runic alpha-
bet of 24 letters, common to Scandinavian , Anglo-Saxon, Bur-
gundian, and Gothic inscriptions, was afterwards modified by the
Scandinavians, who substituted for it the smaller character, con-
XI. HISTORY. x\v
sistiug of 16 letters only. It therefore seems to be a well-estab-
lished fact that during the later iron period, if not earlier, the
Scandinavians had developed into a nationality distinct from the
ancient Goths or the Anglo-Saxons.
Transition to the Historical Period.
The earliest historical writers agree that Scandinavia was at
an early period inhabited partly by a Germanic race, and partly
by Finns or Lapps. The Germanic inhabitants, before whom the
weaker race seems gradually to have retreated , were first settled
in Skane (Skaney) in the S. of Sweden , whence the country was
named Scandia, and the people Scandinavians. The name of
'Swedes' is mentioned for the first time by Tacitus (Suiones), the
'Goths' are spoken of by Ptolemy, and the Suethans and Suethidi
(i.e. Svear and Svtthjod) by Jordanis. Jordanis also mentions
the Ostrogothae and Finnaithne, or the inhabitants of Oster-Gotland
and Finnveden in Sweden , the Dani or Danes , the Raumaricli
and Ragnaricii, or natives of Komerike and Raurike in Norway,
and lastly the Ethelrugi or Adalrygir, and the Ulmerugi or Holni-
rygir. As far back, therefore, as the beginning of our era, the
population in the S. of Sweden and Norway appears to have been
of the Gothic stock. To this also points the fact that the names
of Rugians, Burgundians , and Goths still occur frequently in
Scandinavia; the Rygir were a Norwegian tribe, the name Bor-
gund and Bornholm (Borgundarholm) recur more than once , and
the district of Gotland and the island of Gotland or Gutland were
doubtless so called by Goths or Jutes. It is therefore more than
probable that the picturesque myth of the immigration of the /Esir
or ancient Scandinavians from Asia under the leadership of Odin
entirely lacks foundation in fact.
It is at least certain that the history of Scandinavia begins
with the later iron period. At that time the southernmost part of
Sweden seems to have belonged to the Danes. Farther N. was
settled the tribe of the Gotar, to whom belonged the adjacent is-
land of Oland, while Gotland appears to have been occupied by an
independent tribe. Still farther N. were the Svear, who occupied
Upland, Vestermanland, Siidermanland, andNerike. The territories
of the Gotar and the Svear were separated by dense forest, while
the latter were also separated from the Norwegian tribes by forests
and by Lake Venern and the Gota-Elf. Beowulf, the famous Anglo-
Saxon epic poem, dating from about the year 700, mentions Den-
mark as an already existing kingdom, and also speaks of the differ-
ent states of the Gotar and Svear, which, however, by the 9th cent.
had become united, the Svear, or Swedes, being dominant.
The same poem refers to 'Norvegr' and 'Nordmenn', i.e. Norway
and the Northmen, but throws no light on their history. It
is, however, certain that the consolidation of Norway took place
xlvi XI. HISTORY.
much later tliaii that of Denmark and Sweden, and doubtless after
many severe struggles. To the mythical period must be relegated
the picturesque stories of the early Ynglingar kings, beginning
with Olaf Tro'telje, or the 'tree-hewer'; but they are probably not
withoutsome foundation in fact, and it is at any rate certain that the
migrations and piratical expeditions of the Northmen, which soon
affected the whole of the north of Europe, began about this time
(7th-8th cent. A. P.). The predatory campaigns of the Danish King
Hugleikr, which are mentioned both in the Beowulf and by Prankish
chroniclers, are doubtless a type of the enterprises of the vikings
(see p. xxxvi), which continued down to the 11th century. The
Swedes directed their attacks mainly against Finland, Kurland,
Esthonia, and Russia, which last derived its name and its political
organisation from Sweden ; the Danes undertook expeditions against
France and England, and the Norwegians chiefly against the north
of England, Scotland, tlic Orkney and Shetland Islands, and the
llcbrides,
Norway before the Tliiion.
From the semi-mythical Ynglingar and Olaf Trjetelje, who is
said to have flourished about the middle of the 7th cent., Halfdan
Svarte, king of a part of Norway corresponding with the present
Stift of Christiania, professed to trace his descent. His son Harald
Haarfager ('fair-haired'), after several severe conflicts, succeeded
in uniting the whole of Norway under his sceptre after the deci-
sive battle of the Hafrsfjord near Stavanger in 872. The final
consolidation of the kingdom, however, was not effected until a
century later. The kingdom was repeatedly attacked by the petty
kings who had been banished, while great numbers of the peas-
antry, to escape the burdens of taxation, emigrated to the Orkney
and Shetland Islands, to Iceland, and even to the Hebrides. In
this weakened condition Harald transmitted the crown to his fa-
vourite son Eirfkr Blodox. whose exploits as a viking had gained for
him the sobriquet of 'bloody axe'. After having slain several of
his brothers, Eric was expelled about the year 935 by Haakon the
Good, who in his turn was defeated and slain by Eric's sons at
the battle of Fitjar in 961. Among the sons of Eric, several of
whom were put to death by their own subjects, the most distin-
guished was //an//;/ Graafeld, who was, however, at length defeated
by the Jarl (earl) of Lade in the district of Trondhjem, with the
aid of Harald Gormsson, King of Denmark (970). At this period
a number of petty kings still maintained themselves on the fjords
and in the interior of the country, trusting for support from the
kings of Sweden and Denmark. The Jarls of Lade, who ruled
over Trondhjem , Helgeland , Namdalen , and Nordmere, acknow-
ledged the supremacy of the kings of Norway, until Haakon Jarl
transferred his allegiance to the kings of Denmark. On the out-
break of war between Denmark and Germany he succeeded in
XI. HISTORY. xlvii
throwing off tlie Danish yoke, but did not assume the title of
king. Haakon was at length slain hy one of his own slaves during
an insurrection of the peasantry (995), whereupon Olaf Trygg-
vason , a descendant of Haarfager, obtained possession of tl\e
kingdom, together with the fjords and inland territory which had
belonged to Haakon. With the accession of Olaf begins a new
era in the history of Norw9,y.
In the 10th century Paganism in the north was in a moribund
condition. Based on the dual system of a world of gods (Asgardr,
Godheimr) and a realm of giants (Vtgardr, Jotunhelmr), it regarded
mankind (Midgardr, Mnnnheimr) as a kind of object of contention
between the two. All alike partook equally of the joys and sorrows
of life, of sin, and even of death. The period of the vikings,
however, to the close of which we owe the Eddas, materially altered
the tenets of the old religion. As victory was their great object,
they elevated Odin, the god of victory, to the highest rank in
their pantheon, while That, the god of thunder, had hitherto
reigned supreme. The bards depict in glowing colours the halls
of Odin, which become the abode of heroes slain in war. But as
the gods had been in many respects lowered to the rank of men,
and were themselves believed to have their destinies swayed by
fate , it necessarily followed that they were not themselves the
Creators, but at most the intermediate artificers and administrators
of earth. They therefore failed to satisfy the religious wants of
men, who began to speculate as to the true and ultimate Creator
of the universe, and it was about this period that Christianity
began to dawn on the benighted north. The vikings came into
frequent contact with Christian nations, and Christian slaves were
frequently brought to Norway and Sweden. Many of the Northmen
professed to be converted , but either retained many of their old
superstitions or speedily relapsed into them. A few, however,
embraced the new religion zealously , and it is to them that the
final conversion of the peninsula was due. The first Christian
monarch was Haakon the Good, who had been brought up by King
Athelstanc in England, and been baptised there; but his attempts
to convert his people were violently opposed and met with no success.
The sons of Eric, who had also been converted in England, showed
little zeal for Christianity, and under Haakon Jarl heathenism
was again in the ascendant. At length when Olaf Tryggvason,
who had also become a Christian, ascended the throne, he brought
missionaries from England and Germany to Norway and succeed-
ed in evangelising Norway, Iceland, the Orkney and Shetland
Islands, and the Faroes, partly by persuasion, and partly by inti-
Tuidation or by bribery. Iceland, however, had already been partly
converted by Thorvaldr Vidfcirli , a native missionary, aided by
the German bishop Friedrich.
King Svejn Tue^fccpgr ('double beard'} of Denmark now attempt-
xlviii XI. HISTORY.
ed to re-establish the Danish supremacy over Norway , and for
this purpose allied himself with his stepson King Olaf, Skot-
konung or tributary king of Sweden , and with Eric, the son of
Haakon, by whose allied fleets Olaf Tryggvason was defeated and
slain in the great naval battle of Svold, on the coast of Pomerania,
about the year 1000. Norway was now partitioned between the
kings of Denmark and Sweden, who ceded most of their rights to
the Jarls Eric and Svejn, sons of Haakon Ladejarl. The kingdom,
liowever , was soon permanently re-united by St. Olaf, son of
Harald Orenski , and a descendant of Harald Haarfager. After
having been engaged in several warlike expeditions, and having
been baptised either in England or in Normandy , he returned
to Norway in 1014 to assert his claim to the crown. Aided by
his stepfather Sigurd Syr, King of Ringerike, and by others of the
minor inland Kings, he succeeded in establishing his authority
throughout tlie whole country, and thereupon set himself energet-
ically to consolidate and evangelise his kingdom. His severity,
however, caused much discontent, and his adversaries were sup-
ported by Canute, King of England and Denmark, who still
asserted his claim to Norway. Canute at length invaded Nor-
way and was proclaimed king, while Olaf was compelled to seek an
asylum in Russia (1028). Having returned with a few followers to
regain his crown , he was defeated and slain at Stiklestad near
Levauger on 29th July, 1030. Canute's triumph, however, was
of brief duration. He ceded the reins of government to Haakon
Jarl Erikssen, and after the death of the jarl to his son Svejn and
the English princess Aelgifu , the mother of the latter; but a
reaction speedily set in, stimulated chiefly by the rumour of Olaf's
sanctity, which found ready credence and was formally declared
by a national assembly. Olaf's son Magnus, who had been left by
his father in Russia, was now called to the throne, and Svejn was
obliged to flee to Denmark (1035). The sway of Magnus was at
first harsh, but he afterwards succeeded in earning for himself the
title of 'the good'. In accordance with a treaty with Hardlcanute
in 1038, he ascended the throne of Denmark after the Danish
monarch's death in 1042, but his right was disputed by Svend
Estridssen. In 1046 he assumed as co-regent the turbulent Harald
Sigurdssen, step-brother of St. Olaf, who succeeded him on his
death in 1047. After a series of violent conflicts with Svend,
Harald was obliged to renounce his pretensions to the crown of
Denmark, but on Harald's death at the Battle of Hastings (1066)
the hostilities between Norway and Denmark broke out anew.
Harald was succeeded by Olaf Haraldssan, who in 1068 entered
into a new treaty with Svend of Denmark at Kongshelle, whereby
the independence of Norway was finally established.
Olaf, who was surnamed Hinn Kyrri, or 'the peaceful', now
devoted his attention to the internal organisation of his kingdom,
XI. HISTORY. xlix
and several of the Norwegian towns began to attain importance.
Skfringssalr (near Laurvik) and the neighbouring T^nsberg already
existed; Nidaros (afterwards Trondhjem) is said to have been
founded by Olaf Tryggvason, Sarpsborg by St. Olaf, and Oslo by
Harald Hardraade; but the foundation of Bergen and several other
towns, probably including Stavanger, is attributed to Olaf Kyrri.
His court was famed for its magnificence and the number of its
dignitaries, and at the same time he zealously promoted the in-
terests of the church. AVliile Olaf's predecessors had employed
missionaries, chiefly English, for the conversion of their subjects,
he proceeded to establish three native bishoprics and to erect
cathedrals at Nidaros, Bergen, and Oslo, making the dioceses as
far as possible co-extensive with the three provinces in which
national diets (Thing) were held. His warlike son Magnus Barfod
(1093-1103), so surnamed from the dress of the Scottish Highland-
ers which he had adopted , did not reign long enough seriously
to interrupt the peaceful progress of his country , and the three
sons of Magnus, 0xjstein (d. 1122), Sigurd (d. 1130), and Olaf
(d. 1115), thereafter proceeded to carry out the plans of their
grandfather. Sigurd was surnamed Jorsalafarer ('Jerusalem farer')
from his participation in one of the Crusades (1107-11). The
same devotion to the church also led about this period to the
foundation of the bishopric of Stavanger, and of several mon-
asteries (those of Saeler in the Nordfjord, Nidarholm near Trond-
hjem, Munkelif at Bergen, and Gimse near Skien), and to the in-
troduction of the compulsory payment of tithes [Tiende, 'tenths',
known in Scotland as 'teinds'), a measure which secured indepen-
dence to the church. King 0ystein is said to have been versed
in law , and both he and several of his predecessors have been
extolled as lawgivers, but no distinct trace of legislation in Nor-
way of a period earlier than the beginning of the 12th cent, has
been handed down to us.
After Sigurd's death the succession to the throne was disputed
by several claimants , as , in accordance with the custom of the
country, all relations in equal propinquity to the deceased,
whether legitimate or not, enjoyed equal rights. The confusion
was farther aggravated by the introduction (in 1129) of the custom
of compelling claimants whose legitimacy was challenged to un-
dergo the 'iron ordeal', the practical result of which was to pave
the way for the pretensions of adventurers of all kinds. Conflicts
thus arose between Harald Gilli, a natural son of Magnus Barefoot,
and Magnus Sigurdssen; 'batwecn Sigurd Slembcdegn, who claimed
to be a brother of Harald , and Ingi and Sigurd Munn, sons of
Harald ; and afterwards between Ingi and Haakon Herdebred, a
son of Sigurd Munn. All these pretenders to the throne perished
in the course of this civil war. Ingi was defeated and slain by
Haakon in 1161, whereupon his partisans elected as their king
Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit, ^
1 XI. HISTORY.
Magnus Erlingss0n,yho vr&s the son oi a daughter of Sigurd Jorsala-
farer. Haakon in his turn having fallen in battle, his adherents
endeavoured to find a successor, hut Erling, the father of Magnus,
wlvose title was defective, succeeded in obtaining the support of
Denmark by the cession of Vigen, and also that of the church.
Meanwhile the church had firmly established her power in the
north. At first the sees of Sweden and Norway had been under
the jurisdiction of the archbishops of Hamburg and Bremen , but
in 1103 an arch i episcopal see was erected at Lund in Skane. The
Norwegians, however , desiring an archbishop of their own , Pope
Eugene 11. sent Cardinal Nicholas Breakespeare to Norway for the
purpose of erecting a new archbishopric there , and at the same
time a fifth bishopric was erected at Hamar. The new archbish-
op's jurisdiction also extended over the sees of Iceland , Green-
land, the Faroes, the Orkneys, the Hebrides, and the Isle of Man,
and his headquarters were established at Trondhjem. In 1164
Erling Jarl induced Archbishop Eystein to crown his son Magnus,
a (ceremony which had never yet taken place in Norway, and at
the same time he engaged to make large concessions to the church,
including a right to a voice in the election of future kings.
Supported by the church, personally popular, and a meritorious
administrator, Magnus had at first no difficulty in maintaining
his position, but his title and the high privileges he had accorded
to the church did not long remain unchallenged.
After several insurrections against Magnus had been quelled,
there arose the formidable party of the Birkebeiner ('birch-legs', so
called from the bark of the birch which they used to protect their
feet), who in 1177 chose as their chief Sverre, a natural son of
Sigurd Munn, who had been brought up as a priest, and who soon
distinguished himself by his energy and prudence. In 1179 Erling
was defeated and slain by Sverre at Nidaros, and in 1184 his son
Magnus met the same fate in the naval battle of Fimreite in the Sogn
district. Sverre's right to the crown , however, was immediately
challenged by new pretenders, and he incurred the bitter hostility
of the church by ignoring the concessions granted to it by Magnus.
In 1190 Archbishop Eric, Eystein's successor, fled the country, and
the king and his followers were excommunicated ; but , though
severely harassed by several hostile parties, particularly the Bagler
(the episcopal party, from Baya^i, 'baculus', a pastoral staff), Sverre
died unconquered in 1202. He was succeeded by his son Haakon
(d. 1204), by Guttorm Sigurdssen (d. 1204), and by Inge Baardssen
(d. 1217), under whom the hostilities with the church still con-
tinued. For a time, however, peace was re-established by Haakon
Haakouss«rn (1217-63), a grandson of Sverre, under whom Norway
attained a high degree of prosperity. His father-in-law Skule Jarl,
brother of King Inge, on whom he conferred the title of duke, proved
his most serious opponent, but on the death of tlie duke in 1240 the
XI. HISTORY. li
civil wars at length ternuiiated. New rights were soon afterwards
conferred on the church, but of a less important character than those
bestowed by Magnus Erlingssen, the clergy being now excluded
from a share in the election of kings. The king also amended the
laws and sought to extend his territory. Since the first colonisa-
tion of Iceland (874-930) the island had been independent , but
shortly before his death Haakon persuaded the natives to acknow-
ledge his supremacy. In 1261 he also annexed Greenland, Avhich
had been colonised by Icelanders in the lOtli cent, and previous-
ly enjoyed independence, so that, nominally at least, his sway
now extended over all the dioceses subject to the see of Trond-
lijem, including the Orkney and Shetland Islands, the Faroes, the
Hebrides, and the Isle of Man. His claim to the Hebrides being
disputed by Alexander III. of Scotland, he assembled a fleet for the
purpose of asserting it, and set sail for the Orkney Islands, where
he died in 1263. He was succeeded by his son Magnus Lagaheter
( 'betterer of laws'), who by the treaty of Perth in 1266 renounced
his claims to the Hebrides and Man in return for a small payment
from Alexander. In his reign, too, the Swedish frontier, long a
subject of dispute, was clearly defined, and the relations between
church and state were placed on a more satisfactory footing.
Constitution. From an early period Norway was divided into
four large districts, each presided over by a Thing or Lagthing
(Legthing), a diet with judicial and legislative functions. The
eight Fylker or provinces of Trondhjem sent representatives to
the Frostuthing, so named from Frosten, the meeting-place of the
diet, and to these were afterwards MldeA Ilelgeland , Namdnlen,
Nordmere, and Romsdalen. The Gulathing, in the Fylke of Gulen,
embraced the Fylker of Firda, Sygna, and Herdn, to which Roga-
land, Agder, and Sondmere were afterwards added. The district
of Vigen appears to have had a Thing of its own , which after the
time of St. Olaf met at Sarpsborg and was called the Borgarthing ;
but from the 12tli cent, onwards represeiitatives were sent to this
diet by Ranrfki , Vingulmerk , Vestvold , and Grenafylke also.
Lastly the mountain-districts of Heina, Hada, and Rauma held a
diet called the HeidsiTvhthing, afterwards named the Eidsifnthing
from Eidsvold wlicrc it assembled. This diet, though separate
from that of Vigen, was under the same law, which had been de-
clared common to both by St. Olaf. A committee of each diet,
called the Legreltn, chosen by the king's officers, performed the
judicial duties of the diet, while the Legthing itself exercised
jurisdiction over the diets held at irregular intervals in the differ-
ent Fylker. Resolutions were passed by a majority of the peas-
antry at the diet. The four cities of Trondhjem, Bergen, Tens-
berg, and Oslo eacli possessed a distinct Ltrgthing, the law ad-
ministered by which was called 'Rjarkeyjarrettr'.
King Magnus proceeded to abolish these diets (in 1267 and
d*
lii XI. HISTORY.
1268), but was prevented from finally accomplishing his object
by the protest of Archbishop Jon Raudi at the diet of Fiosten
(1269). He then directed his attention to tlie amendment of the
laws. In 1271 a code called Jdrnsida ('iron side') was completed,
and in 1272-74 a new code was promulgated at the Frostuthing,
which seems to have been immediately adopted by the other
districts. In 1276 a new municipal law was introduced at Bergen
and soon afterwards into the other towns also ; and lastly the
J6nsh6k, a collection of the laws of the mainland , was compiled
in 1280 and promulgated in Iceland. From these codes ecclesias-
tical law was excluded. Though each of them bears a distinctive
name, such as 'Law of the Frostuthing', 'Town Laws of Bergen',
etc., and is somewhat modified to suit the requirements of the
district or town which adopted it, they substantially formed a
single code for the whole liingdom. The whole country was now
subject to the jurisdiction of the four diets, with the exception of
Helgeland, Jemtlancl, and Herjedalen , which still formed inde-
pendent districts. Meanwhile King Magnus concluded a Concordat
with the church at Bergen in 1273 and another at Ti^nsberg in
1277, and at the same time sanctioned an ecclesiastical code
drawn up by Archbishop Jon , wherein he renounced all control
over ecclesiastical causes and over the election of prelates. An-
other interesting code of this period was the Hirdskraa ('law of
servants', probably 1274-77), which affords an insight into the
early condition of Norway.
Magnus Lagabeter died in 1280 and was followed by his son
Eric Magnuss^n (d. 1299), who was succeeded by his brother
Haakon Magnussen (d. 1319). Under these monarchs the con-
cessions of Magnus to the church formed the subject of constant
dispute, and it was not till 1458 that they were finally secured
to the hierarchy by Christian IV. In their secular administration,
however, the sons of Magnus experienced less difficulty. At first
the functions of the Legthing or diets had been deliberative, judi-
cial, and legislative, and those of the king executive only, but the
constitution gradually assumed a more monarchical form. The
first step was to transfer the judicial powers of the diets to offi-
cials appointed by the king himself. The Legmenn ('lawyers')
had originally been skilled assessors at the diets , elected and
^aid by the peasantry, but from the 13th cent, onwards it was
customary for the king to appoint them, and they became the sole
judges of all suits in the first instance. In the second or higher
instance the diet was still nominally the judge, but it was
presided over by theLegmann and attended by others of the king's
officials. The king himself also asserted a right to decide cases in
the last instance, with the aid of a 'council of the wisest men'.
The four ancient diets were thus in the course of time transformed
into ten or twelve minor diets, presided over by Legmenn.
XI. HISTORY. liii
At the same time great changes in tlie social and political
system were effected. In accordance with the old feudal system,
it had been customary for the kings to hestow temporary and re-
vocable grants of land ('Veitsla', probably from veiUa, 'to bestow')
on their retainers and courtiers ('Hird'), on the understanding
that the tenants ('Huskarlar') would administer justice , collect
the taxes, and render military and other services. In some cases,
too, a Jarl was appointed governor of a considerable district and
invested with extensive powers and practical independence, and
it was usual for the king to coniirm the heirs of these officials and
dignitaries in their respective lands and offl(jes. All these minor
jurisdictions, however, were abolished by Haakon Magnussen
(1308J, who directed that all his officials should in future be
under his own immediate control. Thus, by the beginning of the
14th cent., the Norwegian monarchs had attained a position of
great independence, and had emancipated themselves alike from
democratic and from aristocratic interference. The peasantry,
however, always enjoyed greater freedom than in most other Euro-
pean countries, and possessed their lands in freehold, being them-
selves lords of a great part of their native soil ; but they never
attained to much wealth or importance, as the trade of the country
from a very early period was monopolised by Germans and other
foreigners. Of scarcely greater Importance was the nobility of the
country, their lack of influence being due to want of organisation
and political coherence.
The Intellectual Culture of Norway during this period, as may
be supposed , made no great progress. The Runic character had
indeed been in use from the early Iron Period downwards , but it
was merely employed for short inscriptions and rude registers of
various kinds, and not for literary purposes. On the foundation
of the archbishopric of Lund , the Latin character was at length
introduced, but before that period all traditions and communica-
tions were verbal, and it is mainly to the bards or minstrels
('Skald') that we owe the preservation of the ancient myth-
ical and historical sagas or 'sayings'. About the year 1190 the
Latin character began to be applied to the native tongue, both for
secular and religious purposes. Of the exceedingly rich 'Old
Northern' literature which now sprang up , it is a singular fact
that by far the greater part was written by Icelanders. Among
the most famous of these were ^Iri Fro'rfi (d. 1148), the father of
northern history ; Oddr Snorrason and Gunnlaugr Leifsson
(d. 1218), the biographers of King Olaf Tryggvason ; the prior
Styrmir Karason (A. 1245), the biographer of St. Olaf; the abbot
Karl J6nssnn (d. 1212), the biographer of King Sverre ; and lastly
Eirfkr Oddsson, Snorri Sturluson (A. 1241), und Sturla Thordarson
(d. 1284), who were both historians of the kings of Norway and
zealous collectors of their own island lore. The bards attached to
liv XI. HISTORY.
the Scandin avian courts were also generally Icelanders. To Nor-
wegian authorsliip are traceable comparatively few literary works,
the most important being juridical compilations, the 'King's
Mirror', which affords an insight into the court-life and commer-
cial transactions of the 13th cent., the 'Anekdoton Sverreri', a
polemic in favour of the crown against the church, several ballads
of the earlier Edda , and a number of romances translated from
English and French. This poverty of the literature of the main-
land is doubtless to be accounted for by the fact that it was con-
stantly harassed by wars and intestine troubles at this period,
while Iceland was in the enjoyment of peace. While, moreover,
in Norway the clergy held themselves aloof from the people and
from secular pursuits , and the nobles were busily engaged in
fashioning their titles, their manners, and their costumes on the
model of those of their more civilised neighbours , the Icelanders
of all classes retained their national coherence in a far higher
degree , all contributing with equal zeal to the patriotic task of
extolling their island and preserving its ancient traditions.
Sweden before the Union.
With regard to the early history of Sweden there exist no
chronicles similar to those of the Icelanders and Norwegians. It
is ascertained , however , that the country was partly evangelised
in the 9th cent, by Anskar(^A. 8G5) and other German missionaries,
and by his successor Rimbert (d. (S88). Archbishop Vnni after-
wards preached the Gospel in Sweden, where he died in 936, and
after the foundation of several bishoprics in Denmark about the
middle of the 10th cent., Sweden was visited by many other
German and Danish missionaries. The secular history of the
country is involved in much obscurity , from which, however, it
to some extent emerges when it comes into contact with that of
Norway. About the end of the 10th century Olaf Skolkonung
('tributary king') took part in the battle of Svold against Olaf of
Norway and in the subsequent dismemberment of that country.
He was afterwards compelled by his own peasantry to promise to
come to terms with St. Olaf, and on his failure was threatened
with deposition. He was then obliged to assume his son Onund
as co-regent, and had to make peace with Norway about the
year 1019. Olaf and Onund are said to have been the first Christ-
ian kings of Sweden. Onund was succeeded by his brother
Emund (d. 1056), the last of his royal house , on whose death
hostilities broke out between the Gotar, who were now inclined
in favour of Christianity and the more northern and less civilised
Svear, who were still sunk in paganism. Emund had been in-
different about religion , but his successor Slenkil Ragnvaldsson
was a zealous Christian and was keenly opposed by the Svear. On
the death of Stenkil about 1066 open war broke out between the
XI. HISTORY. Iv
Cbiistiau and the pagan parties. When liis successor Inge Sten-
fciisson (d. lll'J}, in wliose reign the arclibisliopric of Lund was
erected (1103), forbade lieatLen sacrifices, tlie Svear set up Ms
brotlier-in-law Blot-Sven as a rival king, but Inge and Ms nephews
and successors, Inge II. (d. about 1120) and Philip) (d. about 1130),
succeeded in maintaining their independence. These dissensions
greatly weakened the resources of the kingdom. Stenkilsson fought
successfully against Magnus Barfod of Norway and acquitted himself
honourably at Kongshelle (1101), but his successors often allowed
the Norwegians to invade their territory with impunity.
On the death of Philip, Magnus, a Danish prince, and grand-
son of Stenkilsson, assumed the title of king in Gotaland, but
was defeated and slain in 1134 by Sverker I., who had been elected
king two years previously. Sverker was next opposed by Eric
Jedvardsson, who was proclaimed king by the Svear, and on Sver-
ker's death in 1156 this Eric, commonly called the 'Ninth' and
surnamed the 'Saint', obtained undivided possession of the throne.
Eric, a zealous churchman, converted the temple of Upsala into a
Christian place of worship , and conquered and christianised
the S.W. part of Finland. In 1160 he was attacked and slain by
Magnus Henriksson, a Danish prince, who laid claim to the throne,
and who in the following year was defeated and slain by KarL
Sverkersson. The latter in his turn was slain by Eric Knutsson in
1167, and the contest between the rival houses of Sverker and
Eric lasted down to 1222. Eric died in 1195, his successor Sverker
Karlsson in 1210, and Jon Sverkersson , the son of the latter and
the last of his family, in 1222, whereupon Eric Laespe ('the lisp-
ing'), a son of Eric Knutsson, ascended the throne unopposed.
Meanwhile the Svear, or Swedes in the narrower sense , had been
converted to Christianity. The church was at first presided over
by missionary bishops only, but in the reign of Olaf Eriksson a
bishopric was erected at Skara, and under Stenkil another at
Sigtuna. Under King Sverker a bishop of Oster-Gutland was ap-
pointed, with his residence at Linkoping , one for the diocese of
Upper Sweden at Upsala, aivd others for Sodermanland and Vester-
manland at Strongniis and Vesteras, while several monasteries
were also founded. The primacy of Sweden was granted to Arch-
bishop Eskil of Lund by Hadrian IV. (Nicholas Breakespeare) about
the year 1154, but in 1163 was transferred to Stephanus, the newly
created Archbishop of Upsala.
Eric Lffispe, though respected by his subjects, was a weak
prince. Long before his time the Folkungar, a wealthy family of
Oster-Gotland, had gradually attained to great power, and Biryer
Brosal^A. 1202), a member of the family, had obtained the title
of Jarl or Duke of the Swedes and Gotlauders. From an early
period , moreover , intermarriages had taken place between the
Folkungar and the royal families of Sweden , Norway , and Den-
Ivi XI. HISTORY.
mark. lu 1230 au attempt to dethrone Eric was made Ly Knut
Jonsson, a distant cousin of Birger, but Knut was defeated and
slain in 1234, and liis son was executed as a rebel in 1248. The
position of the family, however, remained unaifected. Birger Jarl,
a nephew of Birger Brosa , married Ingeborg, the king's sister,
while Eric himself married a member of the Folkungar family
(1243). Birger now became the real ruler of Sweden, the terri-
tory of which he extended by new conquests in Finland. On the
death of Eric, the last scion of the house of St. Eric, without
issue in 1250, Valdemar, Birger's son, was proclaimed the success-
or of his uncle. During Birger's regency the country prospered,
but on his death, in 1266, hostilities broke out between his sons.
The weak and incapable Valdemar was dethroned by his brother
Magnus (1275), whose vigorous administration resembled that of
his father, and who maintained friendly relations with the Hanse-
atic League. He also distinguished himself as a lawgiver and an
upholder of order and justice, and earned for himself the surname
of Ladulas ('barn-lock', i.e. vindicator of the rights of the
peasantry).
In 1290 Magnus was succeeded by his son Birger Magnusson^
during whose minority the government was ably conducted by
Marshal Thorgils Knutsson , but serious quarrels afterwards broke
out between Magnus and his brothers, the dukes Eric and Valde-
mar. In 1304 the dukes were banished, and in 1306 the faithful
marshal was executed by the king's order. Soon afterwards,
however, the dukes returned and obtained possession of the king's
person. After several vicissitudes, peace was declared and the
kingdom divided among the brothers in 1310 and again in 1313. In
1318, however, the dukes were arrested, imprisoned, and cruelly
put to death by their brother's order, whereupon Birger himself
was dethroned and banished to Denmark (d. 1321). The following
year Magnus, the infant son of Duke Eric, was elected king
at the Mora Stones of Upsala (p. 355), while Magnus, Birger's
son, was taken prisoner and executed. The first attempts to unite
the Scandinavian kingdoms were made in the reign of Magnus
Eriksson.
The Constitution of Sweden at first resembled that of Norway.
The country was divided into districts, called Land, Falkland , or
Landskap , each of which was subdivided into Hundari ('hun-
dreds'), called in Gotland Haratft. Each 'Land' had its diet or
Thing, presided over by a Lagman, and each hundred had its
Harathsthing , whose president was called a _7)omar ('pronouncer
of dooms') or Hdrathshof thing . The Landsthing exercised delib-
erative and judicial functions, and each had its own code of laws.
Precedence among these diets was enjoyed by the Svea Thing or
that of Upper Sweden , at which , although the monarchy was
nominally hereditary, kings were first elected. After his election
XI. HISTORY. Ivii
each new king had to swear to observe the laws, and to proceed
on the 'Eriksgata', or a journey to the other diets, in order to
procure conflrniation of his title. Resolutions of the Svea Thing
were even binding on the king himself. As the provincial laws
differed , attempts to codify them were made in the 13th and at
the beginning of the 14th cent., but with the consolidation of
the kingdom these differences were gradually obliterated. The
chief difference between Sweden and Norway was the prepon-
derance of the aristocratic element in the former. From an early
period, moreover, it had been usual to hold diets composed of the
higher officials, the barons, prelates, and large landed proprietors,
and to these after the close of the 13th cent, were added the Lag-
menn. This aristocratic diet was farther enlarged by Magnus
Ladulas (1280), who admitted to it all knights willing to serve
liim in the field , conferring on them the same exemption from
taxation as that enjoyed by his courtiers and by the clergy. As
no one, however, in accordance with a law of 1285, could attend
these diets without a summons from the king himself, he retained
the real power in his own hands and reserved a right to alter the
laws with tlie advice of the diet. From an early period the Lag-
man and the Harathshofthing had been the sole judges in lawsuits,
and from the first half of the 14th cent, downwards they were
proposed by the people, but appointed by the king. At the same
time the king possessed a right of reviewing all judgments in the
last instance. No taxes could be exacted or troops levied without
the consent of the popular diets, and it therefore became custom-
ary as early as the 13th cent, for the kings to employ mercenary
troops. — The privileges of the church were well defined, but
loss extensive than in Norway. The payment of tithes was com-
pulsory, and in 1248 and 1250 the right to elect bishops was
vested in the chapters, while all the clergy were prohibited from
taking oaths of secular allegiance. At the same period the celibacy
of the clergy was declared compulsory. As early as 1200 the
clergy was declared amenable to the ecclesiastical jurisdiction
only , and in some cases the church-courts could even summon
laymen before them. r)n the other hand the supreme legislative
power in church matters still belonged to the state, and parishes
enjoyed the right of electing their pastor when no express right of
patronage existed. — In the latter half of the 13th cent, the dig-
nity of Jarl or earl was abolished, and the Drotsiite ('high steward'"),
Marsker ('marshal"), and Kanceler ('chancellor') now became the
chief officials of the crown. The rest of the aristocracy consisted
of the courtiers and royal vassals, the barons and knights ^7?/<7(iareJ,
the esquires (Sven af vapen, VitpnareJ, and even simple freemen
who were willing to render military service wlienever required.
Hetween all these and tlie peasantry there was a wide social gap.
The history of early Swedish Literature is well-nigh an ab-
Iviii XI. HISTORY.
solute blank. The oldest work handed down to us is a com-
pilation of the laws of West Gotland, dating from the beginning
of the 12th century. A few meagre historical writings in Latin,
a work concerning the 'Styrilse kununga ok hufdinga' (the rule of
kings and governors), and several translations of foreign romances
also belong to this period.
Transition to the Union.
On the death of Haakon Magnussen of Norway in 1319 without
male issue, he was succeeded by Magnus Eriksson, afterwards
called Magnus Smek ('the luxurious'), the son of his daughter
Ingeborg and the Swedish Duke Eric, and at that time a child of
three years. On the banishment of King Birger in 1319 Magnus
was also elected King of Sweden , so that the two crowns were
now united, but it was arranged that each country should retain
its own administration. The union, however, was not attended
with happy results. At first Sweden was prudently governed by
the regent Mats Ketilmundsson , and in 1332 the province of
Skaue, which had been pledged to the Swedish Marshal von Eber-
stein by Eric Menved and Christopher II. of Denmark (1318),
declared itself in favour of Magnus. The king, however, who
soon afterwards assumed the reins of government, and his queen
Blanche of Namur , were ruled by unworthy favourites and soon
forfeited the respect of their people. A disastrous fire at Trond-
hjem (1343), great inundations in the Guldal and Orkedal (1345),
and above all the plague which swept away about two-thirds of
the population (1349-50) aggravated the discontent of the Nor-
wegians, who in 1350 elected Haakon Magnusson, the minor son
of Magnus , regent of Norway, and in 1355 Haakon entered upon
his functions, the province of Yigen and Iceland alone being
reserved to his father. In Sweden Magnus consolidated the pro-
vincial laws and drew up a new municipal code in 1347, but here
too he was overtaken by many troubles. The aristocracy resented
his endeavours to restrain their excesses, the people were exas-
perated by the unsuccessful issue of his Russian campaigns (1348-
49, 1350-51), the plague intensified their dissatisfaction in 1350,
and lastly the king was excommunicated in 1358 on account of
his failure to pay debts due to the pope. Eric, the king's son,
took advantage of these troubles and assumed the title of king in
1356, but died in 1359. New disasters, however, soon followed.
In 1360 the Danes regained Skane and in 1361 they took posses-
sion of the islands of Oland and Gotland. In 1363 Haakon married
the princess Margaret, daughter of King Valdemar of Denmark,
then eleven years old, a union which gave great offence to the
Swedish nobles , who were farther exasperated by the reconcilia-
tion of Haakon with his father. Magnus now banished twenty-
four of his most obnoxious opponents, who proceeded to Mecklen-
XI. HISTORY. lix
burg and offered the crown to Albert, second son of the duke and
of Euphemia, a daughter of Duke Eric of Sweden.
Albert accordingly came to Sweden in 1363, and in 1365 Mag-
nus and Haakon were defeated at Gata, near Enkoping, where the
former was taken prisoner. In 1370-71 a rebellion in favour of
Magnus took place in Upper Sweden, and in 1471 Haakon invaded
the country with a Norwegian army, but peace was shortly after-
wards concluded, and Magnus set at liberty on payment of a heavy
ransom and on condition that he would not again lay claim to the
Swedish crown. The death of Magnus in 1374 finally extinguished
the hopes of those in favour of union. Albert was now compelled
to place himself under the guidance of the powerful aristocratic
party. In 1375 Bo Jonsson, the most powerful noble in Sweden,
was appointed Drost or regent. Meanwhile the Norwegian nobil-
ity under King Haakon had attained to considerable indepen-
dence, while in the towns the dominant party consisted entirely
of Germans, whose proceedings were often most oppressive and
tyrannical. Even in Sweden , in accordance with the municipal
code of Magnus Smek , one-half of the burgomasters and civic
authorities in every town was required to consist of Germans ;
and it may be here added that Albert chiefly owed his unpopularity
to his partiality for German favourites.
In 1375 Valdemar IV. of Denmark died without male issue, and
in the following year he was succeeded by OUif, son of his daughter
Margaret and Haakon, King of Norway. On the death of Haakon
in 1380, Olaf Haakonssen, his only son, acceded to the throne of
Norway also, thus uniting the crowns of Denmark and Norway.
Olaf's early death in 1387 dissolved this brief union, but
within a few weeks his mother Margaret was proclaimed regent
of Denmark, pending the election of a new king, while in Norway
Bhe was nominated regent in 1388 without any such limitation.
At the same time, as it was deemed necessary to elect a successor
to the throne from among the different competitors, the Norwegians
appointed Eric of Pomerania , Margaret's nephew , heir to the
crown, but under the condition that he should not ascend the throne
during Margaret's lifetime. On the death of Eo Jonsson (1386),
who had held two-thirds of Sweden in fief or in pledge, Albert's
quarrels with his magnates broke out afresh, whereupon the mal-
contents proclaimed Margaret regent of Sweden also (1388),
agreeing to accept the king whom she should nominate. Margaret
thereupon invaded Sweden and defeated Albert at Falkciping
(1389), taking him and his son prisoners. The war, however,
still continued , and it was at this period that the Vitalien
Brotherhood (1392) came into existence, originally deriving their
name ('victuallers') from their duty of supplying Stockholm with
provisions during the war. The city was at that time occupied
by the German aillierents of Albert, and these German 'victuallers'
Ix XI. HISTORY.
were in truth a band of lawless marauders and pirates. Peace
was at length declared in 1395, and King Albert set at liberty on
condition of his leaving the country. During the same year Eric
was elected King of Denmark, and in 1396 of Sweden also, so that
the three crowns were now united, and the three kingdoms ruled by
the same regent. The following year Eric was solemnly crowned
at Kalmar by a diet of the three nations. Lastly, in 1398, Mar-
garet gained possession of Stockholm , the last stronghold of the
German partisans of Albert. The union of the three kingdoms
thus effected by Margaret, who is sometimes called the 'Northern
Semiramis', lasted till the beginning of the 16th cent., when it
was dissolved by the secession of Sweden, but Norway and Den-
mark remained united down to the year 1814.
The Union.
Though nominally united and bound to make common cause
against all enemies, the three kingdoms jealously maintained their
respective forms of government. Margaret ruled over the three
(countries with wisdom and moderation, though harassed by many
difficulties, and on her death in 1412 King Eric assumed the reins
of government. Eric , whose queen was Philippa , daughter of
Henry IV. of England, was a weak, incompetent, and at the same
time a cruel prince. He wasted large sums of money in an at-
tempt to recover Sleswick from the Counts of Holstein, who held it
as a Danish flef, and who were supported by the Hanseatic League.
Meanwhile Bergen was twice plundered by the Germans (1428
and 1429), who now became masters of that city, and in Sweden
the people were most oppressively treated by Eric's German and
Danish officials. In 1435, after a disastrous quarrel of twenty-
three years, Eric was at length compelled to confirm the privileges
of the Hanseatic League and to leave the Counts of Holstein in
undisturbed possession of Sleswick. Exasperated by Eric's malad-
ministration, by the debasement of the coinage, and other griev-
ances, the Swedish peasantry, headed by Engelbrekt Engel-
brektsson, a wealthy proprietor of mines, rebelled in 1433 and
compelled Eric and his council to appoint Karl Knutsson regent
of the kingdom (1436), shortly after which Engelbrekt was assas-
sinated. In Norway also the oppressive sway of foreign officials
caused great discontent and gave rise to a rebellion in 1436. Eric
in despair retired to the island of Gotland, and in 1438 a number
of Danish and Swedish magnates assembled at Kalmar, where
they drew up a new treaty of union, but without affirming that
the three kingdoms were thenceforward to be ruled by one
monarch. Lastly, in Denmark also a rebellion broke out, chiefly,
however, against the nobility and the clergy, and the Danes were
therefore compelled to seek for a new king.
In 1439 Denmark and Sweden formally withdrew their alle-
XI. HISTORY. Ixi
glance from Eric, ami Christopher of Bavaria was elected in Lis
stead, being afterwards proclaimed King of Norway also (1442).
Eric spent ten years in Gotland, where he supported himself by
piracy, and ten years more in Pomerania, where he died in 1459.
The separate election and coronation of Christopher in the
three countries shows that their union had ceased to exist in more
than the name. The new king succeeded, however, in asserting
his authority in every part of his dominions, although not without
many sacrifices. In his reign Copenhagen was raised to the rank
of the capital of Denmark. His plans for the consolidation of his
power were cut short by his death in 1448, and the union was
again practically dissolved. The Swedes now proclaimed Karl
Knutsson king, while the Danes elected Christian of Oldenburg,
a nephew of the Duke of Holstein and Sleswick. In 1449 Christian
also succeeded by stratagem in procuring his election in Norway,
but Karl Knutsson was proclaimed king and crowned by the peas-
antry. The following year, however, Karl renounced his second
crown, and Christian was thereupon crowned at Trondhjem.
Karl having rendered himself obnoxious to the clergy and others
of his subjects in Sweden, Christian succeeded in supplanting him
here also, and he was crowned King of Sweden in 1457. In 1460
Christian next inherited the duchies of Holstein and Sleswick from
his uncle, but he was compelled to sign a charter declaring that
he would govern them by their own laws and not as part of Den-
mark. The government of this vast empire was a task to which
Christian proved unequal. Norway was plundered by Russians
and Karelians and grievously oppressed by the Hanseatic mer-
chants, who in 1455 slew Olaf Nilsson , governor of Bergen , and
the bishop of the town, and burned the monastery of Munkeliv
with impunity. In 1468 and 1469 he pledged the Orkney and
Shetland Islands to Scotland, and caused great discontent by the
introduction into Norway of Danish and German nobles, to whom
he granted extensive privileges. Sweden, too, groaned under heavy
taxation, and in 1464 recalled Karl Knutsson to the throne. He
was soon banished, but in 1467 recalled a third time, and in 1470
he died as King of Sweden. In 1471 Sten Sture, the Elder, a
nephew of Knutsson, and the guardian of his son, was appointed
administrator, and the same year Christian was defeated at Stock-
holm, after which he made no farther attempt to regain his author-
ity in Sweden. He died in 1481 and was succeeded in Denmark
by his son Hans, who was not recognised in Norway till 1483.
Sten Sture sought to delay his election in Sweden, but as he had
rendered himself unpopular by an unsuccessful campaign against
the Russians in Finland, Hans took the opportunity of invading
Sweden with a large army and succeeded in establishing his au-
thority (1497). The king having been signally defeated at Hem-
mingstadt in 1500 in the course of his attempt to subdue the
Ixii XI. HISTORY.
Ditiuarscliers, Sture was recalled, but Hans stLll retained Norway.
Sture died in 1503 and was succeeded by Svante Nielsson Sture
(d. 1512), whose successor was his son Sten Sture the Younger
(d. 1520).
King Hans died in 1513, and was succeeded in Denmark and
Norway by his son Christian II., whom the Swedes declined to
recognise. He was a man of considerable ability and learning,
but self-willed, passionate, and cruel. In Norway and Denmark
he effected several social reforms, protected the commercial, min-
ing, and fishing interests, and sought to restrict the privileges of
the Hanseatic merchants. Notwithstanding his strength of will,
Christian was ruled by Sigbrltt, a Dutchwoman, the mother of his
mistress Diiweke (d. 1517), even after the death of the latter, and
the hatred of the aristocracy for this woman, who treated them
with studied contempt, proved disastrous to Christian. In Swe-
den the family of Trolle had long been hostile to the Sture family,
and when Gustaf Trolle was created archbishop of Upsala in 1515
he invited the Danes to aid him in deposing the administrator.
Christian sent troops to the aid of the prelate, who was besieged
in his castle of Staket (p. 356), but the castle was taken and Trolle
deprived of his dignities and confined in a monastery. In 1518
Christian himself undertook a campaign against Sweden without
success , and perfidiously imprisoned Gustaf Eriksson Vasa and
other Swedish hostages who had been sent to him. A third cam-
paign in 1519 was more successful, and Sten Sture was defeated
and mortally wounded at Bogesund in West Gotland. The same
year Christian gained possession of Stockholm , but his atrocious
cruelty and injustice proved his ruin. After his coronation by
Trolle he permitted that prelate and two others to prosecute their
enemies before an arbitrarily formed ecclesiastical tribunal. They
were found guilty of heresy, and on 8th Nov., 1520, executed
along with several other persons. The 82 victims included two
bishops, 13 royal counsellors and knights, and Eric Johansson,
the father of Vasa. On the following day many similar executions
of so-called rebels and heretics took place in other parts of Sweden,
though on a smaller scale than the 'Blood Bath of Stockholm'.
The exasperation of the Swedes was aggravated by the impo-
sition of a new tax and an attempt to disarm the peasantry, and
the discontented populace soon found an able leader. This was
the famous Gustaf Vasa (probably so surnamed from vase, 'a beam',
which the fascine in his armorial bearings resembled), who had
been unjustly imprisoned by Christian, but escaped to Liibeck in
1519. In May, 1520, he returned to Sweden, and on hearing of
the death of his father at the Stockholm Blood Bath he betook
himself to Dalecarlia, where on former occasions Engelbrekt and
the Stures had been supported by the peasantry. The rising began
in 1521 and soon extended over the whole of Sweden. In August
XI. HISTORY. ixiii
of that year Gustavus was appointed administrator at Vadstena,
and in June, 1523, lie was proclaimed king at Strengniis.
Sweden tlius finally withdrew from the union, and Christian
soon afterwards lost his two other kingdoms. His favour to the
Reformation aroused the enmity of the church , and at the same
time he attacked the privileges of the nohility. From the tenor
of several provincial and municipal laws framed hy the king in
1521-22 it is ohvious that he proposed to counteract the influence
of the clergy and aristocracy by improving the condition of the
lower classes. Among several excellent provisions were the abol-
ition of compulsory celibacy in the church and a prohibition
against the sale of serfs. A war with the Liibeckers , who even
threatened Copenhagen (1522), next added to Christian's difficul-
ties, soon after which the Danes elected his uncle Frederick, Duke
of Sleswick-Holstein, as his successor and renounced their allegiance
to Christian. At length, after fruitless negociations, Christian
quitted Copenhagen in 1523 and sought an asylum in Holland.
Nine years later, after an unsuccessful attempt to regain his throne,
he was thrown into prison, where he languished for 27 years.
The condition of the Constitution during the union was far
from satisfactory. The union existed in little more than the name.
Each nation continued to be governed by its own laws, neither
the troops nor the revenue of one could be employed for the pur-
poses of either of the others, and no one could be summoned be-
fore any tribunal out of his own country. The supreme authority,
next to that of the king, was vested in his council, which con-
sisted of the prelates , a number of the superior clergy, and a
fluctuating number of nobles nominated by the king, but not
removable at his pleasure. In matters of importance the king
could only act with the consent of his counsellors, and they were
even entitled to use violence in opposing unauthorised measures.
Nominally the church continued to enjoy all its early privileges,
and the concessions made at Tensberg in 1277 were expressly
confirmed by Christian I. in 1458, but invasions of its rights were
not unfrequent, and with its increasing solicitude for temporal
power its hold over the people decreased. The church was most
powerful in Norway and least so in Sweden, while with the in-
fluence of the nobility the reverse was the case. In Sweden the
estates of the nobility enjoyed immunity from taxation, but Chris-
tian I. and his successors were obliged to relax this privilege.
The nobles also enjoyed jurisdiction over their peasantry, levying
fines and imposing punishments at discretion (1483). The Nor-
wegian nobles were less favoured ; they had no power of levying
fines from their tenantry, and their manor-houses (Stedegaarde)
alone were exempt from taxation. The position of the townspeople
and the peasantry in Sweden gradually improved , and in 1471
Sten Sture ordained that the municipal authorities should thence-
Ixiv XI. HISTORY.
forward consist of natives of tlie country instead of Germans. In
Norway, notwithstanding the opposition of several of the kings,
the Hanse merchants still held oppressive sway in the chief towns ;
but the peasantry were never, as in Denmark, subjected to serf-
dom and compulsory services. They were generally owners of the
soil they cultivated, while those who were merely tenants enjoyed
entire liberty and were not ascrlpti glebae as in many other coun-
tries. In Sweden the compulsory services exigible from the peas-
antry by the lord of the soil were limited in the 15th cent, to
(S-12 days, and those exigible by the king to 8 days. While this
class enjoyed less independence than in Norway, it attained polit-
ical importance and even admission to the supreme council at an
earlier period, owing to the Influence of Engelbrekt, the Stures,
and other popular chiefs.
During the union Literature made considerable progress in
Sweden, while in Norway it languished and became almost ex-
tinct. In both countries the education of the clergy continued to
be carried on in the monasteries and cathedral-schools, but towards
the close of this period universities were founded at t/p.sairt (1477)
and Copenhagen (1479), and gave rise to the publication of various
learned treatises in Latin. Among the religious works of this per-
iod may be mentioned the revelations of St. Birgitta (d. 1373)
and the 'Cronica Regni Gothorum' of Ericus Olai (d. 1486), both
showing a tendency towards the principles of the Reformation.
Whilst about the beginning of the 14th cent, the native literature
of Norway became extinct, that of Sweden began to increase,
consisting chiefly of religious writings, rhyming chronicles, ballads,
and compilations of laws. In Sweden, moreover, the national lan-
guage, though not without difficulty, held its own against the
Danish, while in Norway the 'Old Norsk' was gradually displaced
by the tongue of the dominant race, and continued to be spoken
in several impure and uncultured dialects by the peasantry alone.
Sweden after the Dissolution of the Kalmar TJnion.
The necessity of making common cause against Christian II.,
the deposed monarch of the three kingdoms, led to an alliance be-
tween Gustavus Vasa and Frederick I. of Denmark. Christian at-
tempted an invasion of Norway in 1531-32, but was taken pris-
oner, and after Frederick's death (1533) the Liibeckers made an
ineffectual attempt to restore the deposed king (1534-36). At
ho'me Gustavus also succeeded in consolidating his power. The
nobility had been much weakened by the cruel proceedings of
Christian, while the Reformation deprived the church both of its
power and its temporal possessions , most of which fell to the
crown. By the diet of Vesteras (1527) and the synod of Orebro
(1529) great changes in the tenure of church property and in eccle-
siastical dogmas and ritual were introduced, and in 1531 Lau-
XI. HISTORY. Ixv
rentius Petri became the first Protestant archbishop of Upsala.
Lastly, at another diet held at Vesteras (1544), the Roman Cath-
olio Church was declared abolished. At the same diet the succes-
sion to the throne was declared hereditary. Gustavus effected
many other wise reforms, but had to contend against several in-
surrections of the peasantry , caused partly by his ecclesiastical
innovations, and partly by the heaviness of the taxation imposed
for the support of his army and fleet. Shortly before his death (in
loOO), he unwisely bestowed dukedoms on his younger sons, a
step which laid the foundation for future troubles.
His eldest son Eric XIV. (the number being in accordance
with the computation of Johannes Magnus, but without the slight-
est historical foundation) soon quarrelled with his younger brother
John, Duke of Finland, whom he kept imprisoned for four years.
He was ruled by au unworthy favourite, named Goran Persson,
and committed many acts of violence and cruelty. He persuadeil
his brother Duke Magnus to sign John's death-warrant, whereupon
Magnus became insane. After the failure of several matrimonial
schemes, of one of which Queen Elizabeth of England was the
object, and after several outbursts of insanity, Eric married his
mistress Katharine Mansdatter (1567). The following year he was
deposed by his brother, who ascended the throne as John III.,
and after a cruel captivity of nine years was poisoned by his order
in 1577 (see p. 378). John ingratiated himself with the nobility
by rich grants of hereditary fiefs, and he concluded the peace at
Stettin which terminated a seven years' war in the north (1563-70)
and definitively severed Sweden from Denmark and Norway. Less
successful was his war against Ilussia for the purpose of securing
to Sweden the province of Estlionia, but the province was after-
wards secured to his successor by the Peace of Tensina (1595).
John was married to a Polish princess and betrayed a leaning to-
wards the Romish clmrcli wliidi much displeased his subjects.
After his death (1502) the religions difficulty became more serious,
as his son and successor Sigismund had been brought up as a Ro-
man Catholic in Poland, where he had been proclaimed king in
1587. Duke Charles of Sodcrmanland, the youngest son of Gus-
tavus Vasa, thereupon assumed the regency on behalf of the ab-
sent Sigismund , caused the Augsburg Confession to be pro-
claimed anew by a synod at Upsala (1593), and abolished Romish
practices iTitroduced by John. After confirming these proceedings,
Sigismund was crowned in 159' ; but on his failure to keep his
promises, his uncle was recalled to the regency (1595), and when
Sigismund Invaded Sweden in 1598 he was defeated by Charles
and compelled to enter into a compromise at Llnkciping. Again
breaking faith, he was formally deposed (1599), while Charles
was appointed regent for life. After having prosecuted Sigis-
mund's adherents wltli great harshness, and succeeded in prevent-
1!ahi>kkku's Ni)i-way ami Swoil.n. 8th Kilit. e
Ixvi XI. HISTORY.
ing the recognition of Ladisl.aus, Sigismund's son. Charles IX.,
assumed the title of king in 1604. His administration was bene-
ficial to the country, and he was a zealous promoter of conimerce,
mining, and agriculture, but his wars with Russia and Denmark,
which were unflnished at his death (IGll), caused much misery.
His son and successor was Gustaous II. , better known as
Gustavus Adolphus, the most able and famous of the Swedish
kings. Though seventeen years of age only , he was at once de-
clared major by the Estates. In 1(313 he terminated the 'Kalmar
War' with Denmark by the Peace of Knlirod , and in 1G17 that
with Russia by the Peace of Stolbova , Avhich secured Kexholm,
Karelen, and Ingermanland to Sweden. By the Treaty of Altmark
in 1629 he obtained from Poland the cession of Livonia and four
Prussian seaports for six. years. At the same time he bestowed
much attention on his home affairs. With the aid of his chancellor
and friend Axel Oxenstjerna he passed codes of judicial procedure
and founded a supreme court at Stockholm (1614-15), and afterwards
erected appeal-courts at Abo, Dorpat, and Jiinkoping. In 1617 he
re-organised the national assembly, dividing it into the four estates
of Nobles, Clergy, Burghers, and Peasants, and giving it the sole
power of passing laws and levying taxes. He founded several new
towns, favoured the mining and commercial industries, extended
the university of Upsala, and established another at Dorpat. At
the same time he strengthened his army and navy, which he soon
had occasion to use. In 1630 lie went to Germany to support the
Protestant cause in the Thirty Years' War, and after several bril-
liant victories and a glorious career, which raised Sweden to the
proudest position she has ever occupied in history, he fell on 6th
Nov., 1632, at the Battle of Lutzen. The war was continued under
his daughter and successor Christina, under the able regency of
Oxenstjerna. In 1635, by another treaty with Poland, Livonia
was secured to Sweden for 26 years more. War broke out with Den-
mark in 1643, but was terminated by the Peace of Bromsebro
in 1645. At length, in 1648, the Thirty Years' War was ended by
the Peace of Westphalia. These treaties secured to Sweden Jemt-
land and Herjedalen, the island of Gotland, the principalities of
Bremen and Verden, part of Pomerania with Stettin and the is-
lands of Riigen, Usedom, and Wollin, and the town of Wismar,
besides a considerable Avar indemnity and other advantages. Dur-
ing the regency it was arranged that the royal council or cabinet
should consist of representatives of the supreme court of appeal,
the council of war, the admiralty, the ministry of the interior,
and the exchequer, presided over by the chief ministers of each
department. The country was divided into 23 Lane and 14 Lay-
sagor, govevneAhy Land shnfdinge awA Layman respectively, which
officials were to be appointed from the nobility. For these and many
other reforms and useful institutions the country was indebted
XI. HISTORY. Ixvii
to the energy and eulightenmeiit of Oxenstjerna. On the other
liand, in order to All the empty uoffers of the state , it was found
necessary to sell many of the crown-domains, and to levy new
taxes, and the evil was aggravated by the lavish extravagance
of Christina and her favourites. Refusing to marry, and being
unable to redress the grievances of her justly disaffected sub-
jects, the queen in 1649 procured the election of Charles Gustarus
or Charles X., son of the Count Palatine John Casimir of Zwei-
briicken and a sister of Gustavus Adolphus, as her successor. By
her desire he was crowned in 1654, whereupon she abdicated,
quitted Sweden, and embraced the Romish faith. She terminated
her eccentric career at Rome in 1689. Her successor endeavoured
to practise economy, and in 1650 obtained the sanction of the
Estates to revoke her alienations of crown-property. War, however,
interfered with his plans. John Casimir, King of Poland, son of
Sigismund , now claimed the throne of Sweden , and compelled
Charles to declare war against him (1655). After a time Russia,
Austria, and Denmark espoused the cause of Poland, but Charles
succeeded in gaining possession of Jutland and the Danish islands,
and the Peace of Roskilde (1658) secured to him Skane, Halland,
and Blekinge , but obliged him to cede the districts of Bohus
and Trondhjem to Norway. On a renewal of the war with Den-
mark the Danes were aided by the Dutch, Brandenburgers, Poles,
and Austrians, who forced Charles to raise the siege of Copenhagen,
and on his sudden death in 1662 the Peace of Copenhagen was
concluded, whereby the island of Bornholui was lost to Sweden.
Charles X. was succeeded by his son Charles XI. , a boy of
four years, whose guardians endeavoured to make peace with
foreign enemies. By the Peace of Oliva with Poland , Branden-
burg, and Austria in 1660 the King of Poland finally ceded Li-
vonia to Sweden and renounced his claim to the throne of Sweden,
and by the Peace of Kardis with Russia in 1661 the Swedish con-
quests in Esihonia and Livonia were restored to Sweden ; but
little was done to remedy the internal disorders of the country,
t >ne of the few events worthy of record at this period was the
foundation of the university of Lund in 1668. Meanwhile the
excesses and arrogance of the nobility, the squandering of the
crown-revenues, and the imposition of heavy taxes threatened to
ruin the country, and the regency even accepted subsidies from
foreign countries and hired out troops to serve abroad. At the
age of seventeen Charles assumed the reins of government (167'2).
In 1674 he was called upon as the ally of France to take part in
the war against Holland, Spain, and Germany, but the Swedish
army was signally defeated at Fehrbellin by the Elector of Bran-
denburg. Hereupon the Danes declared war against Sweden,
causing new disasters, but by the intervention of the French
peace was again decilared at Lund in 1679. Tiie distress occasioned
Ixviii XI. HISTORY.
by these defeats and popular indignation against the nohility,
■who were now in possession of ftve-sevenths of the land in Swe-
den, and who did their utmost to reduce the peasantry to the con-
dition of mere serfs, eventually served greatly to strengthen the
king's position. At the diet of Stocliholm in 1680, after stormy
debates, it was determined to call the regency to account for their
gross mismanagement of affairs , and the king was empowered to
revoke the alienations made during his minority. The king was
told tliat he was not bound to consult his cabinet, but to obey the
laws, and that he was responsible to God alone. Another diet
(1682) entrusted the king with the sole legislative power, merely
expressing a hope that he would graciously consult the Estates.
Charles was thus declared an absolute monarch , the sole right
reserved to the diet being that of levying taxes. The king there-
upon exacted large payments from his former guardians and exer-
cised his right of revocation so rigidly, that he obtained possession
of about one-third of the landed estates in Sweden. The money
thus acquired he employed in paying the debts of the crown , in
re-organising his army and fleet, and for other useful purposes,
while he proceeded to amend the law and to remedy ecclesiastical
abuses. On his death, in 1697, he left his kingdom in a strong and
prosperous condition, and highly respected among nations.
Under Charles XII., the son and successor of Charles XI., this
absolutism was fraught with disastrous consequences. Able, care-
fully educated, energetic, and conscientious, but self-willed and
eccentric, Charles was called to the throne at the age of fifteen
and at once declared major. In 1699 Denmark, Russia, and Poland
concluded an alliance against Sweden , which led to the great
northern war. Aided by England, Holland, and the Duke of
Gottorp and Hanover , Charles speedily compelled the Danes to
conclude the Peace of Travendal (1700), defeated the Russians
at Narva, took Curland from the Poles (1701), and forced Elector
Augustus of Saxony to make peace at AltranstJidt , whereby the
elector was obliged to renounce the Polish crown. Meanwhile
Peter the Great of Russia had gained possession of Kexholni,
Ingermanland , and Esthonia. Instead of attempting to regain
these provinces, Charles , tempted by a promise of help from Ma-
zeppa, a Cossack chief, determined to attack the enemy in an-
other quarter and marched into the Ukraine, but was signally
defeated by the Russians at Pultava (1709), and lost nearly the
whole of his army. He escaped into Turkey, where he was hospi-
tably received by the Sultan Achmed III. and supplied with
money. Here he resided at Bender, and induced the Sultan to
make war against Russia ; but when the grand-vizier had defeated
the Czar, he was bribed by Katherine, the courageous wife of Peter,
to allow him to escape. This exasperated Charles and led to a
quarrel with the Sviltan , who placed him in confinement. Mean-
XI. HISTORY. Ixix
wliilc Denmark and Saxony again declared ^var against Sweden.
Skane was guccessl'uUy defended against the Danes , but Elector
Angustus reconquered Poland , and the Czar took possession of
I'Mnland. The resources of Sweden were now exhausted, and the
higher nobility began to plot against the king. At length Charles
effected his escape and returned to Sweden (1715), to find that
England, Hanover, and Prussia had also declared war against him
owing to differences regarding Stettin and the principalities of
r.renien and Verden. Having succeeded with the utmost difficulty
in raising money, Charles now invaded Norway with an army of
raw recruits and laid siege to Fredrikshald , where he fell at the
early age of thirty-six (1718), just at the time when his favourite
minister Gortz was about to conclude a favourable peace with
Ivussia. Brave, chivalrous, and at the same time simple in his
manners and irreproachable in conduct, the memory of Charles
is still fondly cherished by the Swedes. The short reign of abso-
lutism ( En I- al (hi id en) was now at an end, and we reach a period
of greater independence [Frihetsliden ; 1719-9'2).
Charles XII. was succeeded by his sister Ulrika Eleonora, who
with the consent of the Estates resigned in favour of her husband
Frederick I. , crown-prince of Hesse-Cassel. At the same time
( 17'20) a new constitution was framed by the Estates. The supreme
l)()wer was vested in the Estates, a privy council consisting of
members of the three upper chambers, and a cabinet of nine
members of the privy council, three from each estate, to be nom-
inated by the king himself. The king's authority was limited to
two votes at the diet and a casting vote in case of an equally
divided assembly, and the cabinet was declared responsible to
the diet. In 1719 peace was concluded with England , upon tlic
fihandoTiment of Bremen and Verden, and in 1720 with Prussia,
to which Stettin and part of Pomerania were ceded; then with
Poland and Denmark ; and in 1721 with Russia, to which Li-
vonia, Esthonia, Ingerinanland, and the districts of Kexliolm and
N'iborg in Finland had to be made over. The kingdom now enjoyed
an interval of repose , a new- code of laws was drawn up (17.^i),
and efforts were made to revive commerce. The peace party was
derisively called 'Nightcaps" (nattmossor), or simply 'Caps', while
a warlike party which now arose was known as 'Hats' (hdtlnr). In
accordance witli the coinisels of the latter, war was proclaimed
with Russia, which soon led to the loss of Fijiland (1741). On the
death of the queen without issue, Adolphus Frederick of Holstcin-
Gottorp , a relation of the crown-prince of Russia, was elected as
Frederick's successor, on condition (Peace of Abo; 1743) that the
greater part of Finland should be restored. The remainder of
Frederick's reign was tranquil, and he died in 1751.
The prerogatives of his successor, Adolphus Frederick, were
farther limited by the Estates. An attempt on the part of the
Ixx XI. HISTORY.
king to emancipate liiniself led to a confirmation of tlie existing
constitution, and to a resolution that a stamp bearing tlic king's
name should be impressed without his consent on documents ap-
proved by the Estates (ITfHi). The court vainly attempted to
rebel, and the king was bluntly reminded that the Estates had
power to depose him. In 1757 the 'Hats' recklessly plunged into
the Seven Years' War. and after an ignoble campaign peace was
concluded at Hamburg in 1702.
In 1771 Adolphus was succeeded by his son Gustavus III.,
who by means of a preconcerted military revolution or eoup-tVctnt
(177'2} succeeded in regaining several of the most valuable prero-
gatives of the crown, including the sole executive power, whereby
the government was converted from a mere republic into a limited
monarchy. The king used his victory with moderation, abolished
torture , introduced liberty of the press , promoted commerce,
science, and art, and strengthened the army. On the other hand
he was extravagant and injudicious, and in 1788 committed tlie
error of declaring war against Russia without the consent of the
Estates. His officers refused to obey him, and his difficulties
were aggravated by a declaration of war and invasion of Sweden
by the banes. Gustavus now succeeded, with the aid of the
middle and lower classes, in effecting a farther change in the
constitution (1798), which gave him the sole prerogative of mak-
ing war and concluding peace, while the right of acquiring pri-
vileged landed estates (fralsegods) was bestowed on the peasantry.
An armistice was concluded with Denmark, and the not unsuc-
cessful hostilities with Russia led to the Peace of Vilrala (1790),
which precluded Russia from future interference with Swedish
affairs. Soon after, on the outbreak of the French Revolution, the
king proposed to intervene, together with Russia and Austria, in
favour of Louis XVI. and proceeded to levy new taxes, whereupon
the disaffected nobles entered into a new conspiracy against him,
and in 1792 this chivalrous and enlightened, though sometimes
ill-advised monarch was assassinated by Capt. Ankarstrom.
His son Gustavus Adolphus succeeded him as Gustavus IV.,
under the regency of his uncle Duke Charles of Sbdermanland,
who avoided all participation in the wars of the Revolution. In
1800 Gustavus, in accordance with a scheme of his father, and
in conjunction with Russia and Denmark, took up a position of
armed neutrality, but Denmark having been coerced by England
to abandon this position, and Russiahaving dissolved the alliance,
Sweden was also obliged to yield to the demands of England. The
king's futile dreams of the restoration of absolutism and his ill-
judged and disastrous participation in the Napoleonic wars led to
the loss of Wismar, Pomerania, and Finland, and to his defeat in
Norway (1803-8). The country being now on the brink of ruin,
the Estates caused Gustavus to be arrested, and formally deposed
XI. HISTORY. Ixxi
liiiti and his heirs (1809). He died in poverty at .'^t. Gallen in
1837. His TUiclo was then elected king as Charles XIII., and a
Ticw constitution framed, mainly on the basis of that of 177'2.
Peace was concluded at Frederikshamn with Russia (1809), to
which the whole of Finland and the Aland Islands were ceded,
with Denmark, and with France (1810), whereby Sweden recovered
part of Pomerania. The king being old and childless, Prince
Christian Augusttis of Augustenburg, stadtholder of Norway, was
elected crown-prince, but on his sudden death, in 1810, the Estates
elected Mnrshid Ihrnudotte, one of Napoleon's generals, who was
adopted by Charles, assumed the name of Charles John, and em-
braced the Protestant faith. The crown-prince's influence was
directed to military organisation. The lukewarmness of Sweden
in maintaining the continental blockade led to a rupture with
France, and during the war with Napoleon the Swedes concluded
a treaty with the Russians at Abo on the footing that the crown
of Norway should be secured to Sweden (1812). England and
Prussia having given the same assurance, Charles John marched
with a Swedish contingent into Germany and assumed the com-
mand of the combined northern army which took part in the dc-
I'isive struggle against Napoleon (1813). The crown-prince's par-
ticipation in the war was a somewhat reluctant one , but by the
Peace of Kiel (1814) he succeeded in compelling Denmark to cede
Norway to Sweden, while Denmark obtained possession of Swedish
Pomerania and retained Iceland, Greenland, and the Faroes.
The Intellectual Progress of the country was greatly furthered
by the Reformation. Peder Mansnon (d. 1534), bishop of Vesteras,
wrote works on the army, the navy, medicine, and other subjects
in the mcdi?eval style, while Laurentius Petri (d. 1573), Laurcn-
tius Andrea (d. lo5'2), and others translated the Bible into Swedish
and wrote Protestant theological works in their native tongue.
L. Petri and his brother Olaus{A. 155'2)also wrote Swedish chron-
icles; Archbishop Johannes Magni was the author of a history of
the kings in Latin, with a large admixture of the fabulous ele-
ment; and his brother Olnus wrote the often-quoted 'Historia do
Gentibus Septentrionalibus'. An equally indiscriminate writer of
history, and an author of dramatic and other works, was Johan
Messenius (d. 1637). Even Gustavus Vasa had been anxious to
preserve the purity of his native language, but it was not till the
I7thcent. that scholars interested themselves in it. Queen Chris-
tina, a talented and learned princess, was a great patroness of
literature. She invited foreign savants to her court (Descartes,
Grotius, and others), as well as native authors, including Johan
Ihireiis (d. 165'2) and the versatile and distinguished Gdraii Lilje
{ennobled as Heorg Stjernhjclm; d. 167'2). At this period, too
(1658), J(^n liugman first called attention to the treasures of
Icelandic literature, and antiquarian and historical research no\^
Ixxii XI. HISTORY.
came into vogue. Hitherto German influence liad preponderated
in Sweden, Imt about tlie middle of the 18th cent, a preference
began to be shown for the French style. To this school belong
Olof von Dalin{i\. 17(53), the poet and historian, and Count Tessin
(d. 1770), a meritorious art-collector; and among tbe scholars of the
same period were Lagerbring, the historian (d. 1787), Johan Jhre,
tlic philologist (d. 1780), and above all Karl von Linne {^LinmeuH;
d. 1778), the famous botanist. The 'Vitterhets Akademi', or 'acad-
emy of belles-lettres', founded in 1753 was extended by Gusta-
vus III. so as to embrace history and antiquities, and he also
founded the Swedish Academy. To the academic school belonged
Kdlgren (d. 179')) and Leopold (d. 1829): but a far more popu-
lar poet, and one wlio repudiated all the traditions of French taste,
was BellnKin (d. 179;')), the singer of sweet and simple ballads,
whose 'Frcdmans Kpistlar' were deemed worthy of a prize even by
the Academy, and whose memory is still fondly cherished.
The Continued Union of Norway with Denmark.
^Vhen Sweden withdrew from the Kalmar Union (lO^B), Nor-
way at first remained faithful to Chrinlian JL, but Vinccntius
Lunge procured the election of Frederick J. (1524). This king's
Frotcstant tendencies induced the Norwegians to re-elect Chris-
tian II. in 1531 , when the deposed king appeared in Norway
with an army, but he was treacherously arrested the following
year and ended his life in captivity (see p. Ixiv). Frederick thus
regained Norway and continued to prosecute the objects of the
Reformation till his death (1533). The nnbility and the I'ro-
testant party in Denmark elected his eldest son Christian III.
as his successor, and the southern half of Norway under Lunge
acquiesced. A rebellion of the northern provinces, which cost
Lunge his life, was quelled, and the archbishop who had headed
it was obliged to quit the country. In 1536 Christian III. had
promised the Danes to convert Norway into a Danish province,
and he now abolished the council of state and otherwise partially
kept his word. The doctrines of the Reformation permeated the
country very slowly, but the dissolution of the monasteries and
confiscation of church-property were prosecuted with great zeal.
The Norwegian towns now began to prosper, and the trade of the
country to improve , while the tyranny of the Hansa merchants at
Bergen was checkccl by Christopher Valkendorff (1530). In 1559
Christian was succeeded by his son Frederick II., in whose reign
occurred the calamitous seven years' war with Sweden (1563-70),
which sowed the seeds of national hatred between the countries,
and caused the destruction of Oslo, Sarpsborg, and Hamar, the
devastation of many agricultural districts, and the military occu-
pation of others. At the same time the country was terribly op-
pressed by Frederick's officials, and he himself visited it once only.
XI. HISTORY. Ixxiii
His son Christian IV. (lo8S-1648), on the other hand, visited
Norway very Irciiuently and was indefatigable in his reforms. He
refused to grant fiefs in future to nobles who were not natives of
Norway (loOd), and he promulgated a Norwegian code. (ifi04),
wliii'h was a revised edition of the laws of 1274 translated into
Danish. He also published an ecclesiastical code (16071. and took
energetic measures to exclude Jesuits from the country. At the
same time the army was improved, trade was favoured, the silver
mines at Kongsberg (_16'241 and the copper-mines of Raros (1645)
were established, the towns of Christiania [1624) and Christian-
sand (1641) founded anew, and the Hansa factory at Bergen strictly
controlled. All these benertts were outweighed by the disasters of
the Kalniar War with Sweden (1611-13), during which the peas-
antry gained their famous victory over the Scottish auxiliaries
under Col. Ramsay at Kringlen (p. 66), and still more by those
of the Thirty Years' War, in which Cliristian participated (1621")-
1629). A second war with Sweden (1643-45) terminated with tlic
severance of Jemtland and Herjcdalen from Norway.
New disasters befell Norway in the reign of his son Fred-
erick III. (1648-70). The result of the participation of Denmark
and Norway in the Swedish-Polish war was that Norway linally
lost Balius-Lan, Idre, and Siirna. During this war Halden earned
for itself the new name of Fredriksh.-.ld by the bravery of its de-
fenders. These misfortunes, however, led to a rupture with the
existing system of government. (>n ascending the throne Fred-
crick liad signed a pledge which placed him in the power of the
nobility, but during the wars the incompetency of the council of
state, and the energy of the king and citizens in defending Copen-
hagen, liad greatly raised him in the public estimation. At a diet
held at Copenhagen in 1660 the indignation of the clergy and
burghers against the nobility burst forth , and they demanded tlio
abolition of its oppressive privileges. It was next dicovcred tliat
the pledge given by the king was subversive of all liberty and
progress , the king and the lower Estates proceeded to declare the
succession to the throne hereditary, and Frederick was empowered
to revise the constitution. Tlie result was that he declared the
king alone to be invested with sovereign and absolute power, and
to til is document he succeeded privately in procuring the sigua-
lures of most of the members of the diet. This declaration became
law in 1661, but was not actually promulgated till 1709. These
great clianges were on the whole beneficial to Norway. The
country was at least now placed on an equality with Denmark, and
the strict bureaucratic administration was preferable to the old
evils of local tyranny and individual caprice. The supreme
authority now consisted of the heads of the five government de-
partments, presided over by the king, and the feudal lords with
their local jurisdictions were replaced by crown-officials.
Ixxiv XI. HISTORY.
I'^rcilcrick's son Christian V. (1670-99) was not imsucccssful
in the Skanc war against Sweden (1675-79), but liis cliicf merit
as regards Norway was tlie promulgation of a code (1687), based
on tlie Danisli code of 1683, and of a churoh ritual for both coun-
tries. The creation of the new counties or earldoms of Lanrvig and
T^nsberg, afterwards called Jarlsberg, and of the barony of Rosen-
dal were unproductive of benefit to Norway. The unjust treat-
ment of his minister Griffenfeldt , who for a trivial offence was
cruelly imprisoned for 22 years, forms a blot on this king's memory.
Christian V. was succeeded by his son Frederick IV. (1699-
17.30), in whose reign was waged the great northern war in which
the Norwegian naval hero Peter Vessel (ennobled under the name
of Tordenskjnld) took a prominent part. The sole gain to Den-
mark by the Peace of Fredriksborg (1720) was the renunciation
by Sweden of its immunity from Sound dues. The king husbanded
his finances, but often procured money by discreditable means.
He hired out mercenary troops, sold most of the crown-property
in Norway, and granted a monopoly of the trade of Finmarken.
These abuses, maladministration, and an attempt to alter the land
laws so embittered the Norwegians, that a union with Russia was
actually proposed. In this reign a mission to Lapland was organised
(1714), Th. von Vesten being one of its chief promoters, and Hans
Egode went as a missionary to Greenland (1721).
Under Frederick's son Christian VI. •(1730-46) Norway was
injuriously infected with German Puritanism, which enjoined the
utmost rigidity of church observances and abstention from all
worldly amusements. Among the expedients used for reviving
trade in Denmark was an oppressive enactment that S. Norway
should draw its sole corn supplies from tliat country. The fleet,
however, was strengthened ,• an efficient militia organised, and
education promoted. A long peace favoured the growth of com-
merce, navigation, and industry.
In the reign of Frederick V. (1746-66) the grievous sway of
Puritanism came to an end , and art and science were zealously
cultivated. A mining school was founded atKongsberg, and a
mathematical school at Ghristiania, and at Trondhjem a useful
scientific society was established by Gunnerus , Schenlng , and
Sulim, a learned Dane (1760-67). 'J'he frontier between Norway
and Sweden was measured and defined (1759), facilities were
afforded to commerce , and skilled miners introduced from Ger-
many. Complications with Russia connected with the affairs of
Sleswick caused severe financial losses to Denmark and Norway,
and the increased taxation provoked a revolt at Bergen , which,
however, was soon quelled (1763). Notwithstanding these draw-
backs, Norway prospered under the absolute monarchy, while Den-
mark languished. The king in Denmark , being separated froui
the lower classes by* a wealthy and influential aristocracy, was
XI. HISTORY. Ixxv
unable effectually to redress their grievances, and they still groan-
ed under the evils of serfdom and compulsory service. "With the
exception of Copenhagen, the towns were aluiostequally oppressed,
and in ITlill the whole population of Denmark did not exceed
800,000 souls. In Norway, on the other hand , the peasantry en-
joyed freedom, the towns had thrown off the oppressive Hanseatic
yoke, and feudal jurisdictions were abolished , while complaints
against officials were addressed to the king in person. A class of
native officials had also sprung up, affording an additional elemci\t
of security. While the population had numbered 450,000 only in
1(U)4, it rose to 723,000 in 17G9. The number of Norwegian ships
also increased from bOto TloO. The peasantry had benefited greatly
by the sale of the crown-estates, and the trade of Norway now far
surpassed that of Denmark. At the same time frequent intercourse
with England and other foreign countries served to expand the
Norwegian mind and to prepare the way for a period of still greater
enlightenment and prosperity.
During the long reign of the imbecile Christian VII. (17(i()-
1808) his authority was wielded by his ministers. Strueiisee, his
German physician, was the first of these. His measures were those
of an enlightened absolutism. He simplified judicial procedure,
abolished torture, excluded the lackeys of noblemen from public
offices, deprived the aristocracy of their privileges, bestowed lib-
erty on the press, and husbanded the finances. The peremptory
manner in which these and other reforms were introduced gave
great ofl'ence, particularly as Struensee took no pains to conceal
his contempt for the Danes. Christian's stepmother accordingly
organised a conspiracy against him, and he was executed in 1772.
His successor was Oi^e. (riildberg, a Dane, who passed a law that
Danes, Norwegians, and Ilolsteiners alone should be eligible for
the governuient service, and rescinded Struensee's reforms (1771) ).
In 1780 an attitude of armed neutrality introduced by the able
Count Bemstorff gave a great impulse to the shipping trade, but
the finances of the country were ruined. In 1784 the Crown
Prince Frederick assumed the conduct of affairs with Bernstorff as
his minister, whereupon a more liberal, and for Norway in partic-
ular a more favourable era began. The corn-trade of 8. Norway
was relieved from its fetters, the trade of Finmarken was set free,
aTul the towTis of Tromse, Hammerfest, and Vard0 were founded.
On a renewal of the armed neutrality (1800-18011, Great Britain
attacked Copenhagen and forced the Danes to abandon it. Six years
later Napoleon's scheme of using Denmark's fieet against Great
Britain led to a second attack on Copenhagen and its bombardment
by the British fleet, which resulted in the surrender of the whole
Danish and Norwegian fleetto Great Britain (1807). Denmark, allied
with Fjaiice, then declared war both against Great Britain and
Sweden (1808), and almost at the same period Christian died.
IxKvi XI. HISTORY.
On the accession of Frederick VI. (1808-36") the affairs of the
kingdom were in a desperate condition. The British did not
attack the country, hut contented themselves with capturing as
many Danisli and Norwegian vessels as possihlc and ruining the
trade of the country by bloi'kading all its seaports. Owing to an
over-issue of paper-money the government was soon unable to meet
its liabilities and declared itself bankrupt (1813). Meanwhile
Norway was governed by a separate commission, presided over by
Prince Christian Augusiua of Augustenhurg (1807"), and was so
well defended that it lost nothing by the peace of Jonkoping
(1809). The independence of the peasantry, the wealth of the
burghers, and the success of their country in the war against Swe-
den naturally created in the minds of the Norwegians a proud
sense of superiority over the unhappy Danes, while the liberality
of their views widened the breach with a country still groaning
under absolutism. A 'Society for the Welfare of Norway' was
founded in 1810, and a Union with Sweden was warmly advocated,
particularly by the talented Count Herman Wedel-.larlsberg. The
I)anish government made some vain attempts to conciliate the
Norwegians, as for example by the foundation of a university at
Ghristiania (1811), which had been proposed so far back as 1661,
but the Norwegians themselves provided the necessary funds. In
concluding a treaty with the Russians in 1812, Sweden obtained
their consetit to its future annexation of Norway, and at the Peace
of Kiel in 1814 the Danes were compelled to make the cession.
Frederick thereupon released the Norwegians from their allegiance
to him, and the union of Norway with Denmark, which had sub-
sisted for more than four centuries, was thus dissolved.
The Literature of Norway from the Reformation to the end of
the union is inseparable from that of Denmark. As translators
of old northern laws and sagas may be mentioned L. Hanssen
(d. 1596) and P. C. Friis (d. 1614), of whom the latter also wrote
interesting works on Norwegian topography and natural history in
his native dialect. A. Federsen (d. 1574), of Bergen, was the
author of a description of Norway and of the 'Capitulary of
Bergen'. The historian and topographer J. Ramiis (d. 1718) and
the poet Peter Dass (d. 1708), the still popular author of 'Nord-
lands Trompet', were also natives of Norway, while T. Turf<pus
(d. 1719), a famous historian of Norway, was an Icelander. By
far the most important author of this period was Ludvig Holberg
of Bergen (d. 1754), the poet and historian, whose 'Peder Paars',
'Subterranean Journey of Nils Klim', and comedies have gained
him a European reputation. Among later poets and authors C. B.
Tullin (d. 1765), J. H. Vessel (d. 1785), C. Fasting (d. 1791),
E. Storm (d. 1794), T. de Stockfleth (d . 1808), J. N. Brun (d. 1816),
J. Zetlitz(d. IS'Jl), and C. Friman (d. 1829) are noted for the
national character and individuality of their writings , which are
XI. HISTORY. Ixxvii
iininnuenced by the French and German taste then prevalent in
Denmark. This national school was partly indebted for its origin
to the foundation of the 'Norsiie Selskab' at Copenhagen in 177'2,
while the 'L.-erde Selskab' of Trondhjem , founded by Ounrrerui<,
the naturalist (d. 1773), anA Schening, the historian (d. 1780),
promoted scientific research. On the whole, notwithstanding
the want of good national scliools, the Norwegian literature of this
period ranks at least as high as the Danish.
Union of Sweden and Norway.
After the Peace of Jcinkuping in 1809 Norway was governed by
Prince Frederick of Hesse and afterwards by Ckrislian Frederick,
cousin of King Frederick and heir to his throne. Christian was a
popular priTiee, and even after the terms of the Peace of Kiel had
been adjusted he made an effort to secure the sovereignty of the
country for himself. He summoned an assembly of notables to
Eidsvold (Feb., 1814), stated the terms of the Peace of Kiel, which
had not yet been published, and declared that he would assert his
claim in spite of it. The assembly denied the right of the King
of Denmark to hand over Norway to Sweden , but also declined to
recognise the prince's hereditary claim. They, however, appointed
him regent until a national diet should be summoned to consider
the state of affairs. The King of Sweden promised the Norwegians
a liberal constitution if they would submit to his authority; but
his offer met with no response, the country eagerly prepared to
assert its independence, and a temporary government was con-
stituted. On 10th April, 1814, the representatives of the country
met at Eidsvold , a constitution framed chiefly by K. M. Falsen
[d. 1830) was adopted on 17th May, and on the same day Christian
Frederick was proclaimed king. Count Wedel-Jarlsberg, the most
far-seeing of the Norwegian statesmen , who had urged a union
with Sweden, was overruled on this occasion , but his object was
soon afterwards attained. About the end of June ambassadors of
the guaranteeing powers, Russia, Britain, Austria, and Prussia,
arrived at Christiania to demand fulfilment of the Peace of Kiel
and to recall the regent in the name of the King of Denmark.
After fruitless negociations and the outbreak of a war with Swe-
den , which was terminated by the Convention of Moss on 14th
August, the Swedish regent temporarily recognised the new Nor-
wegian constitution, and Christian summoned a Storthing to meet
at Christiania in October, to which he tendered his resignation,
and imnu'dintely afterwards set sail for Denmark. He afterwards
reigned over Denmark as Christian YIII. (1839-48). During the
sauie month the Storthing, though not without reluctance, affirmed
the principle of union with Sweden, andseveral modifications were
made in the Eidsvold constitution, and on 4tli November Charles
(XlU. of Sweden) was unanimously proclaimed kiiig. <>n lOtli
Ixxviii XI. HISTORY.
November the crowu-priiice Charles John solemnly ratlfled the
constitution at Christiania. With pardonable national pride, how-
ever, the Norwegians still observe the 17th of May, 1814, as the
true date of their political regeneration.
At first as regent, and after the death of Charles XIII. (1818)
as King of Norway (1818-44), Churlea John or Charles XIV. had a
difficult task to perform in governing two kingdoms to which a
few years previously he had been an entire stranger, and with
whose languages he was imperfectly acquainted. The internal
affairs of both countries were, moreover, in an abnormally unsettled
condition, and their finances were well-nigh ruined, while foreign
states looked askance at the parvenu king and his almost repub-
lican kingdom of Norway. In 1815, however, the legislative au-
thorities of the two kingdoms drew up a formal Act of Union,
placing the connection of the countries on a satisfactory basis. By
the sale of the island of Guadeloupe to England the king was
enabled to pay part of the national debt of Sweden, and he adopted
other wise financial measures. Among other serious difficulties
was that of calling in the unsecured Danish banknotes still cir-
culating in Norway, a task which occasioned heavy sacrifices, and
at the same time a bank was founded at Trondhjem (18113). In
18'21 a new burden was imposed by the unlooked for liability of
Norway for part of the national debt of Denmark, while the intro-
duction of a new educational system and other reforms was attended
with great expense. About this period the king displeased his
democratic Norwegian subjects by opposing their abolition of titles
of nobility (1821), by attempts to enlarge the prerogatives of the
crown and to obtain for it the absolute right to veto the resolutions
of the Storthing (1824), by appointing Swedish governors of Nor-
way, and by yielding to what were considered the unjust demands
of Great Britain in consequence of a fracas atBoda. On the other
hand, by rigid economy, sound administration, and the legalised
sale of church-property for educational purposes (1821), and owing
to good harvests and successful fisheries , the prosperity of the
country rapidly improved, while the king's firmness of character
and his self-denial in renouncing his civil list for a period often
years in order to assist in paying the national debt justly gained
for him the respect and admiration of his people. From 1836 on-
wards the highest offices in Norway were filled with Norwegians
exclusively, and a new communal code (1837), penal code (1842),
and other useful laws were passed. — In Sweden the French re-
volution of 1830 caused a great sensation and led to a fruitless
demand for the abolition of the existing constitution. A conspiracy
in favour of Prince Vasa (1832) and several riots in Stockholm
(18.38) were also unsuccessful. On the other hand the king earned
the gratitude of his Swedish subjects by the zeal with which he
promoted the construction of new roads and canals, particularly
XI. HISTORY. Ixxix
that of the Gota Canal, and t'urtliered the interests of commerce and
agriculture, and at the time of his death the internal affairs of both
kingdoms rested on a sound and satisfactory constitutional basis.
The administration of his son Oscar I. (1844-59) was of a still
more liberal and enlightened tendency. This gifted and highly
educated monarch thoroughly remodelled the law of succession
(1845) and the criminal code (1854) of Sweden, and abolished the
monopolies of guilds, but he was unsuccessful in his attempts to
procure a reform of the constitution (1845 and 1850-51). On his
accession the king rendered himself popular in Norway by present-
ing it with an appropriate national flag, and he was afterwards a
scrupulous observer of the constitution of that country. At the same
time the population and wealth of Norway increased rapidly. His
temporary interposition in the German and Danish war regarding
Sleswick, which led to the Armistice of Malmo (1848) and after-
wards to the occupation of Northern Sleswick by Swedish and Nor-
wegian troops, was regarded with favour in both of his kingdoms,
where patriotic Scandinavian views were then in vogue.
Oscar's eldest son Charles (XV. of Sweden; 1859-72), a highly
popular, though pleasure-loving monarch, who was endowed with
considerable artistic and poetical talent, inaugurated the present
representative constitution of Sweden in 1865, while in Norway
the triennial Storthing was made annual (1869). In both countries
the principle of religious equality was extended, new railways
and roads constructed, and other reforms introduced. A threatened
conflict between the representatives of the two countries was
averted through the king's influence, and to his wisdom was due
the neutrality observed during the German and Danish war of
1863 and the Franco-German war of 1870-71 , although his sub-
jects warmly sympathised with the Danes in the one case and with
the French in the other.
In 1872 Charles was succeeded by his brother, the present
king Oscar II., a gifted prince, endowed like his father and elder
brother with considerable taste for science , poetry, and music.
Materially and intellectually his kingdoms have recently made
rapid strides. Latterly the radical and republican movement has
gained considerable ground in Norway, where it has been accom-
panied by a strong ultra-nationalistic spirit, revealing itself largely
in a revulsion of feeling against the union with Sweden. The
Norwegians now desire a foreign minister and a consular service
of their own. In 1898 they abolished the symbols of the niiloii from
tlioir national flag, although, of course, the union flag is still borne
by tlie army anil navy.
Iti both kingdoms the fleld of Literature has been most sedu-
lously cultivated during the present century. In Swisi>kn there
existed an academic and a neutral school, as a representative of
Ixxx XI. HISTORY.
which may be mentioned Franz Michael Franzai (<1. IH4'7), the,
graceful lyric poet. An opposite tendency was exemplified by the
romantic school, which consisted of two groups. The leader of one
of these groups, called 'Phosphorists' from their periodical 4'hos-
plioros', was Per Daniel Amadeus Allerhom (A. i'^bb\ distinguished
for his popular songs and his monographs on Swedish poets, but
showing a fantastic sentimentality in his more ambitious poems.
The chief representatives of the other romantic group, known as the
'Gotisk' (Gothic) school , were the historian Erik Guslaf Geijer
(d. 1847) and Bishop Esaias Tegner (d. 1846). The former was the
author of a series of vigorous and beautiful short poems inspired by
a genuine Scandinavian sentiment. TegneVs great lyrical - epical
poems, of which the 'Fridthjofs-Saga' is the best known, are charac-
terised by groat technical perfection and are also permeated by a
truly national spirit. His brilliant rhetoric, however, is responsible
for a revival of the bombastic style among his imitators. The Finnish
poet Johan Ludvig Runeberg (d. 1877), is marked by a noble
simplicity, an unusual purity of feeling, and a keen sense of form.
His epics and lyrics, especially the glowingly patriotic 'Fanrik Stal's
Siigner', claim a worthy place in the world's literature. An isolated
and unique position is occupied by Karl Jonas Ludnig Almqvist
(d. 1866), in whom a powerful imagination is combined with a total
disregard of moral restraint. The poems and romances of Victor Ryd-
hirg (d. 1896) are distinguished by lofty thought and artistic form.
Among living poets Count Snoilsky (b. 1841) deservedly claims a
high place for splendour of diction and national feeling. The earlier
works of A. Strindberg (b. 1849) are characterized by an almost
repellant 'realism' in both matter and manner, but a fundamental
change in his views is evidenced in his latest historical dramas
('Gustavus Adolphus'; 1901), in which deep patriotism appears
coupled with a new-found piety. As popular authoresses, though
inferior to some of their above-mentioned contemporaries, we may
mention Frederica Bremer (d. 1865) and Emilie Flygare - Carlen
(d. 1892).
In Norway the struggle for independem'e of Danish influence
is illustrated by the passionate H. Wergeland (d. 1845) and the
more temperate J. Velhaven (d. 1873). Through Bjarnson , and
still more through Ibsen, Norwegian literature has now acquired a
worldwide celebrity. Bjemstjerne Bjernson (b. 1832) is distin-
guished by the strength and freshness of his earlier poems, romances,
and historical dramas, and by the radical boldness and depth of the
ideas in his later sociological plays such as -liedakteren' (1875),
'En Fallit" (1875), 'Kongen' (1879), 'Over Evne' ('Above our
Strength'; first part 1883, second part 1895), and 'Laboremus'
(1901). Henrik Ibsen (b. 1828), who also made his debut with
poems, popular tales, and thoughtful historical dramas, has taken
the world by storm with his satirical and philosophical dramas
XI. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. Isxxi
(such as -Brand", 1860, 'Peer Gynt', 1867, ami 'Kejser og Galilser,
1873), and still more by bis series of realistir soi-iologiGal plays.
Among these (nearly all excellently translated by William Archer)
are 'Samfundcts Stetter' ('Pillars of Society', 1877), 'Et Dukkehjem'
('A Doll's House', 1879), 'Genpangere' ('Ghosts', 1881), 'Eu Folke-
flende' (-An Enemy of the People', 1882), 'Yildanden ('The Wild
Duck". 1884), 'Kosmersholm' (1886), 'Fruen ira Havet' ('The Lady
from the Sea', 1888), "Hedda Gabler' (1890), 'Bygmester Solness"
('The Master Builder", 1892), 'Lille Eyolf ('Little Eyolf, 1894),
'John Gabriel Borkmaa" (1897), and 'Nar vi Dede Vagner' ('When
we Dead Awaken', 1900). These plays are characterized by masterly
dramatic form and a ruthless realism in laying bare the shady side
of modern life. — The tales and romances of Jonas Lie (b. 1833),
Alex. KjeUand (b. 1849), and Arne Garhorg (b. 1851) have also
met a warm appreciation.
The scientiflc literature of both Sweden and Norway is also rich,
especially iu the domains of history, etymology, natural science,
and geography. The Arctic explorers Baron Nordenskjidd (b. 1832)
and Fritli i"f Nunstn (!•. 1861) have a worldwide r.pntation.
Chronological Table. p^
Peehistobic Pkriot) : Ages of Flint, I'lronze, and Iron
(down to ca. 700 A.D.) xliv
Norway hkfork the Union xlvi
Ilarald Hauvfag,v (il.',34), Ohif Tryyyrason (rf. lUJO), St. Ola f
fd. 1030), Mwjniis the Good (d. 1047), Vluf Kyrri (d. lU9o),
itagmts Eilingss^ii (1161), Sverre (d. 1202), Haakon Ilaakons-
sun (d. 1263), Muynns Lagabeter (d. 12S0), Eric Magnussfn
(d. 1299), Haakon Mugmtssfin (d. 1319).
Intfllectuul Culture liii
Swe)>i:k liEroRE the Union 11 v
Birger Jarl (d. J26f)), Magnus Ladvln/i (.1. 12' 0).
Lileraiure Ivii
The Union (1397-1523) Ix
MurgarKt of Denmark (1387-1412), £nc of I'omerania (d. 1459),
ChrisUiphnv vf ISuiaria (1440-48), Christian of Oldeiibvrg
(1448-81), Z/a;w (1481- 151'2j,C7iri.'!to(rt//. (ir)13-23; d. 1559) —
Enyelbrekl EngelbrekUson (d 1436), Sten Sture (d. 1503).
Iviteruture Ixiv
Sweden ai'ter the Dissolution of thk Kalmar Union
(1623-1814) Ixiv
dustaoiis Vasa (1523-60), Eric XI V. (d. 1577), John III. (A. 1592).
iSigismimd (1592-99), Charles IX. (d. 1611), Gvs'aviig Adolphus
(d 1632), Christina (1632-54; d. l(;89), Charles X. (d. 1660),
Charles .\I. (d. 1G97), Charles XII. (d. 1718), Frederick 1.
{A. 1751), Adolphus Frederick (d 1771), (lustacus III. (d. 1792),
aiistavus IV. (1792-1809; d. 1837), Charles XIII. (d. 1318).
Intellectual I'l-.ig.ess K'^'
B.^Kl'l^KKK^'^ Norway and Sweden. 8tli Edit. f
Ixxxii CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE.
Page
6. Continued Union of Norway and Denmark (1523-1814) Ixxii
Christian III. (d. 1559), Freilerick II. (d. 1588), Christian I V.
fd. 1648), Frederick III. (d 16"iO) , Christian V. (d. 1G'J9|,
Frederick IV. (d. 1730), Christian VI. (d. 1746), Frederick V.
(d. 1766), Christian VII. (d. ie08), Frederick VI. (d. It39).
Literature Ixxvi
7. Union of Sweden and Norway (siuce 1814) Ixxvii
Charles XIV. (1S18-44), Oscar I. (d. 1859), Charles XV. (d. 1872),
Oscar II. (ascended the throne in 1872).
l.iliTature Ixxix
SOUTHERN AND EASTERN NORWAY.
(As FAR AS TrONDHJEM.)
Route Page
1. Christiansaiid and the Ssetersdal 2
From Christiansand to Christiania 6
'2. Christiania and Environs 9
3. From Christiania to the Randsfjord via Drammen and
Haugsiind *2'2
From Sandviken to Krogkleven and H)i(uefos i'-!
4. From (Ch%<!tiania) Ilaugsund to the Hardanger Fjord
via Kongsuerg and the Rjukanfos 27
From Kongsberg to the Jonsknut. Labrofos ~A
From L0vheim toSiljord; to Tuddal Sanatorium. Gaiista 32
f). From Christiania to the Hardanger. Fjord via 8kieii,
the Telemarken Canal, and the Haukelifjeld .... 33
From Eidanger to Brevik 35
From Hvideseid to Arendal 38
Eidsborg. Ravnejuvet 39
6. From Kongsherg to the Hardanger Fjord through the
Numedal 42
7. From Christiania through the Hallingdal to Laerdals-
eren on the Sognefjord (Bergen) 44
Ascent of the Norefjeld 44
From T^xB to Lake Spirillen 45
From Rolfshus to the Valders 45
From Ekre to the Valders 46
The Upper Hallingdal 4B
8. From Christiania through the Valders to Lffirdalsaren
on the Sognefjord TiO
a. Via Lake Spirillen to Frydenlund 50
h. To Odnses and Dokka via the Randstjord or by the
Northern and Valders Railway 52
c. Road from Odnss and Dokka to Laerdals0ren . . 53
9. From Christiania through the Gudbrandsdal to Stryn
on the Nordfjord, Marok on the Geiranger Fjord, or
Aandalsnss on the Romsdals-Fjord 00
a. Railway from Christiania via Hamar to Otta in the
Gudbrandsdal t'>0
b. Road from Otta via Grotlid to Stryn, on the Nord-
fjord, and to Marok, on the Geiranger Fjord ... (>5
From Lindsheim to the Sognefjord G^
c. Road from Otta to Aandalsnas, on the Romsdals-
Fjord 08
From Mulmeii to Skeaker TO
n.AKDUKKit'.'i Norway and .SwimIimi. Sth Kdit. 1
2 Route 7. CHRISTIANSAND.
Route I'agc
10. From Doniaas in the Gudbraiidsdal over tlio Dovre-
fjeld to Stj»ren (Trondhjem) 71
Snehsettan 72
From Austbjerg to Tiansset 73
From Bjerkaker to 0rkedal3OTen 73
11. From Christiauia to Trondlijem by Railway .... 74
12. From Christiauia to Charlottenberg (Stockholm) . . 78
13. From Christiauia to Gotenburg by Railway .... 79
14. From Christiauia to Gotenburg by Sea 84
1. Christiansand and the Ssetersdal.
Chuistiansand, the largest town on the S. coast of Norway, at which
numerous steamers touch in summer, lies at the mouth of the Sietersdal,
which is seldom chosen as an avenue to the interior of Norway in spite
of the new railway and the laudable exerlions of the 'Christiansands og
Oplauds Turistforening' to improve the accommodation for travellers.
Several fine but fatiguing mountain-paths lead from the head of the valley
to the great Telemarken, Hardanger Fjord, and Stavanger Fjord routes.
Christiansand. — Hotels. '^Ernst's, Vestre Strand-Gaden-j-, at the
corner of Raadhus-liaden, with electric light and baths ; R. from 21/2, B. Vj"2,
D. (at 1.30 p.m.) 21/2 kr., S. 1 kr. 60 0. — Eoyal, Skandinavie, Salvesen,
all three in Dronningens-Gaden; Dagmar, Raadhus-Gaden 9, by the market-
place, unpretending.
Post and Telegraph Office, corner of Raadhus-Gaden and JIarkens-Gaden.
Sea Baths: Selyst, on ihe Oddere (p. 3), hours for men 12-2 and 5-9
(bath 20 0.). Warm Baths adjoining the cathedral (40-80 0.).
Music frequently at Helyst (see above), in the grounds of the BeUevue
(p. 3), and in Raviiedalen fp. 3).
Bookseller, A. Conrudi, opposite the post-oflice.
British Vice-Consul, American Consular Agent, and Lloyd's Agent,
Mr. Heme Reinhardt, Vestre Strand-Gaden 10.
Steamers to Christiania, to Slavanger, and to Bergen once or twice
daily; io Frederikshavn in Denmark daily j to CopewAajrere weekly ; to Ham-
hurg twice weekly; to London weekly; to Hull weekly; to Leitli weekly;
to LirerjJool fortnightly; also to Amsterdam, Antwerp ^ etc. Small local
steamers ply daily, except Sunday, to Arendal-Brevik and to Mandal, twice
weekly to Farsund, and once or twice daily to iJosby, on the Otteraa.
Christiansand, with 14,700 inhab., the largest town on the S.
coast of Norway and the residence of one of the five Norwegian
bishops, -was founded by Christian IV. of Denmark in 1641 and
lies at the mouth of the Otteraa, or Torrisdals-Eiv, on a square
peninsula, the N.E. side of which is washed by the river. The town
has frequently suffered from destructive tires, the last in 1892. The
streets intersect at right angles, some parallel with Vestre Strand-
•f- The Norwegian custom always appends the definite article (comp.
p. 3 of the Grammar at the end of the Handbook) to such words as Oade
(street). Vet (way), Torv (market), and so on in giving an address or
Indicating position ; and in this Handbook we try as far as possible to
give the Norwegian form and avoid the awkward duplication of the
article presented in such a phrase as 'the Strand Gadcn' or 'the Konge-
veien\ The Swedish and Danish praclice coincides vvilh the Norwegian.
(*i) ' lit "\
tjeiil
Ml.,. 11. fc^.%^
UP Tieia ' • Ki
[aaifivigeix
KRISTIANSSAN&
1:30.000
'I Borsen
A Toldbodm
•i Doni/drken
■ogricpK- Anstall.'
5 RimiUiaset.
6 Xorgcs bank
I 7 Thaitrpt
UdderolM
lv.,c]iDri-nibos Li'ipi
CHRISTIANSANT). /. Route. 3
Gaden, skirting the main harbour, the others parallel with 0stTe
Strand-Giiden. It has an excellent harbour, at which all the coasting
steamers and others from England, Scotland, Germany, and Den-
mark touch regularly. Near the centre of the S.W. part of the town,
between Kaadhus-Gaden and Gyldenleves-Gaden, is the Cathedral
(PI. 4), rebuilt in the Gothic style after its destruction by lire in 1880.
It contains an altar-piece (Christ atEmmaus) by Eilif Petersen.
The Environs are picturesque. From the S. angle of the penin-
sula, where Vestre and 0stre Strand-Gaden meet, a bridge leads
to the Oddere, a rocky aiul fortified island. The Selyst Baths (p. 2)
lie to the right. The path in a straight direction passes the Qua-
rantine Hospital (situated on a hill to the left) and leads to the
right to the Peisftue (restaurant). The other parts of the Oddere
arc inaccessible on account of the fortilications.
Opposite the E. angle of the town , on the left bank of the
Otteraa, reached by a wooden bridge, is the Hamreheia (right), a
good point of view. — At the W. angle of the town, near the
station of the Satersdal Railway (p. 4), to the left, begins the road
to Mandal ('Vestreveien'), on which, to the right, beyond the ('/4M.)
briiige, lies the Bellevue (restaurant), with its pleasant grounds.
The Duehnipen, ascended hence, affords a fine view. — To the N. of
the railway-station, in Tordenskjolds-Gaden, begins the highroad
to the Sffitersdal (see below), the beginning of which is shaded with
lime-trees. To the left, a short way out, lies the pretty Cemetery,
which contains the graves and monument of the Danes who fell in
the naval battle of Heligoland (1864). Farther on we cross a bridge
and the Saitersdal Railway. On this side of the next bridge, about
1 M. from the town, we take the path to the right, leading to the
Ravnedal. In 10 min. \\q reach a pond, where rfmts. may be
obtained. Thence we ascend abruptly along the rocky wall to the
left to (25 min.) the *Ravnefjeld (view). We now descend to the
S.W. to (•/4 hr.) the Sffitersdal road, or we may proceed from Rav-
nedalen to the N.E. to the Egsasyl and return thence to the town
by the right bank of the Otteraa.
About 3 M. to the W. of Ravneda]en rises the Graamandshtia (810ft.). —
On the right bank of the Otteraa, S'/z M. up, are the '■Oinvtndte Baud''
(a land-mark) and Oddersjaa, commanding a pleasing view of the river,
its mouth, and the sea. — Steamers ply twice daily from Christiansand
up the TopdaU/jord, the N. prcilongation of the Christiansands-Fjord, to
Uunene and fioe«, on the Toi)dals-Elv (there and back 272-3 hrs.).
A trip by steamboat or electric launch may be taken to the Oxe, with
it.s lijihthou.'e and meteorological station, and to the (() JI.) Flekker0, on
which stands the Slgn'ryaard Hanatcrium, opened in 1903 (R. l'/-.'-2 kr.,
H. 70 0., D. IV2, S. 174 kr.), with sea-baths, promenades, and extensive view.
The Ssetersdal.
Itinerary. 1st Day. By Railway to (78 Kil.) 2Jy</Zfm(/4/?wd (33/4-4 hrs. ^
fares 3 kr. 90, 2 kr. b) 0.) and thence by Steamkk to (35 Kil.) Ose (S'/a-ilirs- ;
fare 1 kr. 80 n.) <ir tn Mfj Kil.) Lnngeid (4-4V.' hrs.; fare 2 kr. 30 0.). —
2ud Day. By R(jai. (skyds) to KUv-n. — 3rd Day. Skyds to Flateland, and
1*
4 Route 1. BYOI.ANDSFJORD. Slwtemlnl.
thence on foot, with guide, to (4>/a hrs.) the club-hut on the Store Bjerne-
vand. — 4tb Day. Ou foot to Dalen^ a walk of fully 12 hr-i. — As an alter-
native we may drive (skyds) on the 3rd day to Bykhmi^ and walk or ride
thence on the 4th day to (iO-11 hrs.) Bredvik, whence a long day's walk
or ride (12-li hrs.) brings us on the 5th day to the SuldaUvand. — Coaip.
the 'Oversigtskart' of the Christiansand Tourist Society (1 kr.) and Abraham-
son s 'Reisehaandbog over Sa'tersdalen' (3 kr.). The Tourist Society has
arranged the following official tarifl" for its huts: bed 1, warm supper I'/a,
breakfast 1/2 kr. The prices at the tourist-stations are not much higher.
The Saieradal, a valley ruiming to the N. of Christiansand,
ahout 230 Kil. (143 Engl. M.) in length, and watered by the Ot-
teraa or Torrisdals-Eiv, is interesting both for its scenery and the
primitive character of the inhabitants , a tall, strongly-bnilt race,
wlio still cling to their old dress and customs.
The narrow - gauge Railway ascends the right bank of the
Otteraa , passing numerous farms. 7 Kil. Kv ernv olden , with the
farms of Stray. At (10 Kil.) Mosby, with its cotton-mill, we cross
the river. From (15 Kil.) Vennesld a short branch-line runs to
Vigeland and the paper - mill of Hundnfossen. Beyond (20 Kil.)
Orovene the train recrosses to the right bank. 28 Kil. Reiknes ;
35 Kil. Iveland; 39 Kil. Qaaseflaa. From (44 Kil.) Hceyeland, on
the KUefjord (460 ft.), a road leads to Aaserals Hotel in the Mandal
(75 Kil.; p. 90). 52 Kil. Hornesund; 56 Kil. Moisund; 63 Kil.
Hornnces. We cross a long bridge. Near (67 Kil.) Evje (Hot. Delen)
are the nickel and copper mines of Evje Nikkelvark and many tombs
of the 5th or 6th century. About 17 Kil. to the N.E., on Lake
Hearing, is the tourist-station of Lauvaas (1850 ft.). — 74 Kil.
Systveit.
78 Kil. Byglandsfjord [Hotel, very fair, D. li/gkr.), also called
Breidahiik, lies at the S. end of the Byglandsfjord, a lake 221/2 M.
long, traversed by the Otteraa.
The Stbamee. Journey on the Byglandsfjord is very pleasant.
The S. part of the lake, enclosed by low and steep hills, is called
the Aardalsfjord. On the right rises the Aardalsnut (2510 ft.). We
then pass the church of AardaL The steamer rounds a promontory
with the farms of Freirak and Berg and enters the Byglandsfjord
proper. On the right are the steep Foneklev, which the road crosses,
and the church of —
Byglaud, at the foot of the Lysheia (2770 ft.). The steamer
stays here 2 hrs. The sanatorium called S(tlersdalens Sommerhjem
(80 beds; lishing to be had), about '-^/i M. from the pier, is recom-
mended for a visit of some duration (Engl. Ch. Service in summer).
The navigable channel narrows. Beyond Urdviken, amidst fine
mountain-scenery, the steamer passes through a lock (beyond whii'h
it cannot go when the water is low) and under the bridge which
carries the highroad back to the W. bank, and reaches the Aaraks-
fjord, the N. part of the Byglandsfjord. On the E. bank of the fjord
is the church of Scindnas. On the W. bank, on the highroad, lies
Freittnies (quarters at Ole Torbjernseii's, with beds for tourists).
S(Ptcrsd(il. BYKLUM. /. Route. O
About 2 lirs. after leaving Bygland the steamer reaches Ose
(quarters at T. J. HeUtacVs), which is 18 Kil. from Bygland by the
highroad. One of the farm-houses here possesses two interesting
old Stabbure and several curiosities , including old bridal orna-
ments. A little farther up the valley is the church of Osstad.
The Road follows the AV. bank of the river, skirts iheRudfjeld
(3510 ft.), and passes the gaard of Langeid, which the steamer
sometimes reaches if the height of the water serves (10 Kil. from
Ose; i hr.). Good quarters may be obtained at Tarald Rysstad's
gaard of Gmneheim, about 4 Kil. from Langeid.
From Graneheim a fatiguing mountain-path leads via the l3'/-.> hrs.)
tourist-station o( Hcegsteil (18T0'; quarters) to the (4'/-.>-5V2 hrs.) tourist-hut
on the Gfwkheivaud (2525'; quarters; lishing to be had), whence we may
proceed (a day"s march in either case; gaide and provisions necessary) tn
the S. to Aaserals Hotel (p. CO), or to the X.W. to the Lysefjord (p. 93).
17 Kil. Besteland (modest quarters, with beds for tourists).
About 8 Kil. farther on is the church of Hyllestad.
At Flaarenden, about 15 Kil. from Besteland, the road crosses
to the E. bank of the river. Scenery grander. To the left are the
HaUondifos, a waterfall with some of the largest 'giant's cauldrons'
in Norway, one of them 26 ft. deep, and the Skuggebcekfos.
15 Kil. Viken i Valle (Hot. Vallorheim. kept by Dreng Bjernaraa ).
The church of Valle has an altar-piece by Fed. Barocci. The gaard
of Aamlid, to the W. of the river, contains an ancient 'Aarestue'.
The Svamarnut (4525 ft.), ascended from Aamlid, is a fine point of
view. The gaard of Homme, near Valle, also afl'ords a good view.
From Viken the Bispevei ('Bishop's Way), the be.st of the bridle-
Iracka leading out of the upper Siftersdal, joins the road mentioned at
p. 39 about 6 Kil. to the S. of Vfum (12-13 hrs.; horse and guide from
Viken to Veum about 14 kr.). From Veum we proceed via Midigaarilen to
Bandakslid or to Dalen (p. .39), where we join the main Telemarken route
from Skien to Odde.
From Aamlid over the mountains to Aardal on the SUivanger Fjord
(p. 93), two days; guide 12-14 kr.
Travelling by 'skyds' ends at Viken. But we may drive on (o
Flateland (about 12 Kil. from Viken), where the mountain-route
to Dalcii diverges (see p. IV), or beyond Flateland (with a view of
tlic old Ihjktestig, a flight of steps 140 fr. high ascending the nioiiii-
tain-slope), passing the Biikle Kirke, to —
32 Kil. Byklum (1800 ft.; Ole Drertgsen's hin, rustic but good).
Near it is the Sarvfos. the highest waterfall (100 ft.) of the Otteraa,
which we reach by a good path (there and back 1 hr. ; guide).
About 2 M. to the W. of Byklum lies the Bosvand (1750 ft.; S'A M. long),
at the W. end of which is Brattelid i Bykle. Rough paths, crossing
several torrents, lead thence to the W. to the Hjetenfjord (p. 94) and
to the N.W. to iiiestad on \\ie. Suldalsvand (p. 96), each 15-16 hr,= . (guide).
A fair road on the "W. bank of the river (horse and guide 8 kr.)
ascends past the gaards (where bread, coffee, and milk only are to
be had) of Huslcmo and 0rnefjeld to (lO'/ahrs.) the gaard of —
35 Kil. Bredvjk or Brcive (tourist -beds and scanty fare at
Kiiud Alfficiis).
6 lioute 1. LILLESAND. From Chrialian^iand
From Flateland to Daj.en, 1'/2 day (guide 8 kr., with horse
22 kr.). This mountain-pass, lately iniprovcd, is one of the hcst
ways for leaving the Ssetersdal. The path ascends by the gaard of
Eygnestad (with a 16th cent, 'stahbur' or storehouse) and leads past
the kettle-shaped Vaiagjnv to the Lille Bjernevand (1.) and to the
lower end of the Store Bjernevfind. According to the regulations
of the 'Turistforening', there should always be a boat here for cross-
ing the lake. If not, we cross the outflow of the lake and walk on
from the N. bank to the Bjmncvandsliylten (ca. 4'/2 h^s. from Flate-
land), a club-hut where the night is spent. Next day we ascend still
farther and then follow the ridge, passing several lakes and s.-cters
and crossing small streams, to Kjenningsvik, the first srcter in Tele-
niarken, and the gaard of Orimedalcn (ca. 9 hrs. from the dub-hut).
A good path, affording a view of the Bandaksvand and passing near
the Skafse-Kirke, descends hence to (3 hrs.) Dalen (p. 39).
The Mountain Koutk from Bredvik to the Suldalsvand
(13-14 hrs., incl. rest of 2-3 hrs.) is very fatiguing and can hardly be
made without the aid of horse and guide (from Bredvik to Boaldkvam
14 kr.). Provisions have to be brought from Christiansand or
Sommcrhjem. The route leads at first over much marshy ground
and crosses several strong and sometimes violent streams, some of
which are unprovided with bridges. The passage of the huge Meien-
fjeld, where reindeer are often seen, is, however, interesting. In
descending from the head of the pass (ca. 3940 ft.) we have fre-
quently to dismount and let the guide lead the horse. Vast snow-
fields and smooth granite rocks are traversed, while around rise
the ice and snow-bound peaks of lofty mountains. There is a club
hut at the saeters of Bleskestadmoen. Finally we make a steep de-
scent to the gaard of Bleskestad, whence a good path leads to (6 Kil.)
Roaldkvam, where plain but satisfactory quarters arc obtained. From
Roaldkvam to Ncrs (p. 97), 1/2 l»r. by boat (li/okr.).
Less interesting is the route from Bredvik to the Beii-te Hotel, on the
Bertcrand (p. 40), or the path up the Ssetersdal from Bredvik to (15 Kil.)
Bjaa, the hiehest gaard in the valley (beds at Knud Bjjrrguf sen's), and to
Flaathyl on the Havkeli Road (p. 41). Each of these routes takes a day.
From Christiansand to Christiania.
Steamboats of the 'Sommer-Postrute' daily in 20 hrs. (fares 15 kr.
60, 9 kr. (5 0.); distance, as the crow flies, 39 ^Norwegian S.M., or
156 Engl. M. ; 12 stations. The voyage is chiefly Hndenskjmrt\ i.e. within
the Skjoergaard, or belt of islands which flanks the coast, where the
water is perfectly smooth. We give the distances in Norwegian sea or
nautical miles (S. M.) from station to station (.see Introd., p. vi).
The voyage presents no special attraction till we enter the
Christiania Fjord. The vast extent of sea studded with rocky is-
lands has the effect of dwarfing the scenery. Several of the coast
hills rise to 2300 ft. , and are often well wooded though they appear
bare from a distance.
Lillesand (Hot. Norgc; Lloyd's agent, Mr. T. ff. Hansen), with
to Chriatiania. KRAGER0. 1. Route. 7
1600 inliab. (narrow-gauge railway to Flaksvand, 17 Kil.), and
Grimstad (Hot. Victoria; Lloyd's agent, Mr. A. Isachsen), with
3000 inhab., are tlie first stations. Between the two is the Hom-
borgsundfyr. — A picturosqne channel, with two lighthouses ( Torun-
geme)^ leads between the Hise and Trome to the Galtesund and —
lOS.M. Arendal (Grand Hotel, on the quay, H. l'/2-3, B. 1,
D. 2, S. ll/okr.; Fenix, near the church, both very fair; Brit, vice-
consul, Mr. M. Kallevig; U.S. Com. Agent, Mr. C. Eyde), with
11,500 inhab. (incl. the suburbs), picturesquely situated on the
hill rising over the mouth of the Nid-Elv. It is a busy trading and
ship-building place, and has an excellent harbour. The Gothic brick
church, with its lofty spire, was built by Christ. Fiirst. Fine view
from a small terrace planted with trees above the quay, including
the small towns of Kolhjernsvik ( on Hise) and Rajvcsand (on Trome ).
The Stintehei, above the town, commands a more extensive view.
A posting - road leads from Arendal to (U Kil.) Bvmkke i Moltind
and (18 Kil.) the small seaport of Tvedesfrand, then inland by (14 Kil.)
Vlievg to (18 Kil.) Simonstad, at the N. end of Lake Nelaagfjord, amidst
fine woods, where the beaver still occurs. A shorter route is by the
direct road to (35 Kil.) the Nelaagfjord, and thence by boat (to be ordered
by telephone from Simonstad) across the Fjord to (G Kil.) Simonstad. —
From Simonstad to the Nifservand, coiiip. p. 38.
Farther on, to the left, we see the little town of Bnrbo, adjoin-
ing Arendal on theN. The banks of the Tromesund, through which
the steamer steers towards the N. , are finely wooded. Numerous
settlements and wharves are seen on both sides. Near the N. end
of the sound, to the left, stands the Flangstnd- Kirke. Farther on we
p:iss the Mekkelasfyr, marking the entrance of the Oxefjord (for
Tvedestrand, see above), and then the Lxjnger.
6 S.M. Riser (Rnic\ Thiis, Hotel Riser, both by the pier, and well
spoken of; Busch, in the town; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. A. F. Finne;
Lloyds agent, Mr. H. C. Malbach), a town of 3400 inhab., beyond
which the coast is unprotected for some distance,
4 S.M. Kragere ^Central Hotel, 5 min. from the pier, R. 2,
D. 2, S. ll/okr. ; Grand Hotel; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. Tom Parker),
a busy trading port with 5200 inhab., opposite the island of that
name. It contains a large church by G. Bull, and a monument, by
Middelthun, to Prof. Schweigaard (p. 13), a native of the place.
Passing the latter, we reach (7 min.)the terrace above the town, with
a large school and a bust of King Oscar II. (*View). — Apatite, a kind
of phosphate abounding in the environs, yields artificial manure.
From Kran:er0 a posting-road leads by (10 Kil.) Sleien, (17 Kil.) Lenws
on the Totevand, and (21 Kil.) Bolle i Drangedal to (18 Kil.) Be. Beavers are
still found in C(in-iiderablc numbers on the Lilb'. JSnrand, in the Drangedal.
— From Ii/5 by road (about 30 Kil. more) to Strand i Vraadal (p. 38).
The coasting steamers pass through the picturesque Langesund,
a very narrow strait between precipitous rocks (particularly narrow
at the Kreppa, orN. end), while the large steamers follow tlie wider
channel passing the lighthouse (r.) on Jomfruland. Langesund
8 Route 1. HANK0. Christiania
( Wright's Hotel; Rye's Hotel), with 1400 iiiliab., lies on the Lnnge-
xunds-Fjord, which is prolonged to the N. by the Eidanger Fjord
and the Frierfjord, the latter extending to Skien. To the right
rises the lighthouse Lnngesunds-Fyr.
From LAJfOEsnND to Porsgrund and Skien via Brkvik, 2? Kil.,
steamer several times daily, except Snnday, in 2'/2-3 hrs. Soon after
starting vre touch at Brevik (p. 35). A steam of ^ji hr. on the Frierfjord
brings u'l to Porsgrund (p. Sri), whence we ascend the Skient-Elv in ^jt hr.
more to Skien (p. 36).
The steamer, unproteeted hy islands, next passes the Nevlung-
havn, and thei\ enters the pretty approach, past the -Svenner/i/r and
the Fredriksvarn-Fyr, to Fredriksvcern, with 1300inhah., formerly
a small fortress. The Mellerhjerg affords a fine sea-view. ■ — Wc
now steer to the N. through the Laurvik-Fjord to —
7 S. M. (from Kragere) Lanrvik (p. 36).
Farther on, the steamer passes the mouth of the Laagen to the
E. and rounds the furrowed Hummerberge. It then crosses the
mouth of the Sandefjord , at the N. end of which lies the little
town of that name (p. 35), with sulphur and sea baths.
The Farder-Fyr, on a cliff to the right, indicates the entrance
to the Christiania Fjord, which, with its broad basins, studded with
islands, and its river-like narrows, extends towards the N. for about
50 M. It is enclosed by rocky banks of moderate height, wooded
with birches and pines, and enlivened with numerous villages, at
which none of the larger steamers touch. Geologically considered,
it may be described as a rent or chasm in the primaeval mountains,
with sunken layers of Silurian slate and limestone overlaid by
masses of volcanic rock (diabase, syenite, porphyry, and granite).
The same varied formation characterises the whole district from
Langesund (p. 7) to the Mjtisen (p. 61).
On the left are the Tensberg-Tende , a promontory on which
many a ship has been wrecked, at the mouth of the Tensberg-Fjord
(comp. p. 34), and the Tjeme. On the Bolaren (to the right) is
found a much-prized dark variety of syenite, with veins of irrides-
ccnt blue feldspar running through it, which, when polished, is
known as Labrador Stone.
On the E. coast, in the distance, to the N. of the confluence of
the Single Fjord (p. 83), is the beacon of Torgauten, and beyond
that, close to the E. coast, lies the island of Hanke, the most
frequented and fashionable of Norwegian bathing-resorts, with four
hotels (R. i^/i-b, board 31/2 tr.), a large sanatorium (Dr. Gran),
numeious villas, splendid pine-woods, lawn-tennis courts, a view-
tower, and other attractions. (All information may be obtained
from the inspector at the baths; steamers ply daily to Ohri^tianin,
Fredrikstad, and Fredrikshald.)
On the W. coast lie Valle, a small manufacturing town with
petroleum -refliierics (31/0 l^'- from Tensberg, p. 34); Aaf^gaard-
stranden, a commercial town and sea-bathing resort; "Rorten^Serhye'a
Fjord. DK015AK. 1. Route. 9
Hotel, very fair; Victoria Hotel), a town with 8400 inhab. ; and
h'arl-Johansvo'rn, the principal Norwegian government dockyard,
with its quays and a brick church. Railway to Holmestrand, see p. 34.
On the E. shore of the fjord, behind the island of Hjelle, lies
Moss (p. 80), at which several of the larger steamers touch.
The fjord now expands to a breadth of about 12 Engl. M. On the
left opens the Drammens-Fjord (p. 24). We next enter a strait nar-
rowing to l/o M., about 91/2 M. long, which connects the outer with
the inner Christiania Fjord. On the right lies the next station —
Drebak, a pleasant watering-place, with 2200 inhab., numerous
villas , and a marine biological station , directed by Christiania
University. We pass the fortified islets of Oscarsborg and the
bleak Haa-0, beyond which the inner fjord expands. To the
N.W. now appear the porphyry ranges of the Kolsaas (1210 ft.),
the Skougumsaas (1140 ft.), and, farther to the W., the Vnrdekolle
(p. 23). On the left bank is the cement-factory of *Siemmes<ad. In
the fjord are the islands of S tell ene, with large tanks of petroleum,
and Elgjames, with sea-baths. At the promontory of Ncesodtangen
(lighthouse), on the E. side of the fjord, we come in sight of
Christiania, with the conspicuous palace on the hillside, the for-
tress of Akershus in the foreground, and the Tryvandshfidde (with
Frognersaeter, p. 20) rising In the distance: a beautiful picture.
The vessel steers past several islands : oti the left the Linde
and the Hovede (with interesting strata of greenstone); on the
right the OrashQlm and the lileke, beyond which we obtain a fine
glimpse of the Bundefjord, with its numerous country-houses. We
land at the Bjervik, the harbour proper of Christiania (see below).
2. Christiania and Environs.
Arrival. The large Steamers land their passonger.q in BJerviken, or the
K. harbour, near the Custom Hou.'^e (Toldbod ; PI. F, 4). The cnstom-tioiise
cxaroinatinn takes place on board the .steamer. Porlcrajje from the steamer
to the hotels: 50 0. for 65 lbs. or under (only porters with badges should he
employed). Cabs (see p. 10) are generally scarce; but a boy (20 0.) may
be sent to fetch one from the Jernbane-Torv, near the harbour. — Railwav
Station.? : J^st-Jinnegaard, or Hoted-Bnnegaard (PI. F, 4), for the trains to
Fredrikshald and GuihenI urg (II. 13), L'harlottenl)urg and .Stockholm
(R. 12), llamar and Trondhjem (R. 11), Hamar and Gudbrandsdal (R. 9),
and GJBvik and the Valders (R. 8()). The trains for Telemarken alone start
from the l'e$t- Banegaard (PI. U, 4). Porterage and cabs thence to the
hotels, as above. Omnibuses of the larger hotels, 75 0.-1 kr. The customs-
examination of registered luggage from abroad (or from Sweden) takes
place at the ifcJst-Banegaard.
Hotels (coiiip. p. XXV; the chief all with electric light and baths).
tiRANn lloTiiL (PI. g; K, 3), Carl-.Tohans-Gaden 31, at the corner of Eosen-
kranlz-Gaden, near the Kidsvolds-Plads, with lift and hot-air heating,
K. from 3, 1',. 1, lunch 2V2, D. (2-5 p.m.) 2-3, S. (8-11 p.m.) 2 kr. ; Victoria
(PI. V; F, 4), at the corner of RaadUus-Gatlen and Dronningens-Oaden,
R. 2V2-8, P. 1, ]">. (2.30 p.m.) 3'/2 kr. — Skandinavif, (PI. s; F, 4),
at tlic corner of Oiirl - Johans - Gadeii and Drunningens - G;iden , cpiict,
R. 2-6, 11. 1, D. 2i/», S. lV2kr.; Ah^ustin, Toldbod-Gaden 2i, with lilt.
10 Route 2. CHUISTIANIA. Practical
R. l'A-6, B. 1, D. l'/2, S. 1 kr. (cafe im the mezzanine floor), very fair. —
Hotel du Boulevaro (Pl.b; E,3), Storthings-GadenS, second floor, E.3-7kr.,
luneh 93 f(., D. l-2'/2kr., Hotel Continental, at the corner of Stortliings-
CJaden and Klingenberg-Gaden (PI. E, 3), second and third floor, with lift,
R. 2-5, B. 3/4-I, D. 2-3, S. 2 kr., these two with cafe on the groundfloor and
restaurant on the first floor; National, Storthings-Oaden 14, at the corner
of Torden.skjolds-Gaden, second and third floor, to the S. of the Eidsvolds-
Plads, with lift, R. 2-6, B. l-l'/-.-, D. 2-21/2, S. I1/2 kr. — Private Hotels
(generally on the upper floors of large houses, and managed by women,
with Norwegian servants, though in those of the better class En^ilish or
German is spoken). S^stkene Larsen, Carl-Johans-Gaden 39, with electric
light and lift, English spoken; Belvedere, Carl-Johans-Gaden 35, R. 2-6 kr.,
B. 70 0., I>. 2, S. l'/.^kr. ; Nobkl, Carl-Johans-Gaden 33; Metkopole, Carl-
Johans-Gaden, corner of Kongens -Gaden ; Scheen, Prindsens-Gaden 26b,
with lift and baths, R. 2-4 kr., B. 70 «r., D. (2.30-3) 2, S. IV2 kr. ; Fru Bte,
Akers-Gaden 26, corner of Carl-Johans-Gaden, R. li/j .5, B. 1, D. 1",2, S. 1 kr. ;
Fr(*ken Meter (English, French, & German spoken), Storthings-Gadcn 10,
R. l'/2-3V2, B. 1, 1). 13/,, S. 1, pens. 5-6 kr. ; Westminster, Storthings-Gadcn,
corner of Rosenkrantz-Gaden, same charges ; Tostrltgaaruen's Hotel, Cai 1-
Johans -Gaden 25; Bkllevue, Kirke- Gaden 36, R. 11/2-31/2 kr., B. 80 «r,
I). IVi S. 1 kr.
Cafes-Restaurants. "Grand Hotel a,nA ffot. Dotderard, with seats in the
open air, on the Eidsvods-Plads, see above : Logen, in the Freemasons"
Lodge (p. 13), 1). (1-4.30 p.m.) 2-4 kr. ; 'Tostrupganrden's Caff, Carl-Johans-
Gaden 25: HohenzoUern, Carl-Johans-Gaden .39; Duval, Akers-Gaden 16;
•Restaurant in the park of St. Banshaugen, (sec p. 17); 'lioiird Yacht Club
Restrnirrint, On the island of Dronningen (with open terrace), D. 3 kr. —
Confectioners. Halverson, Prinsens-Gaden 26; Avreseii, 0vre Slots-Gaden 10;
Melhorn, Carl-Johans-Gaden 23, corner of Akers-Gaden.
Cabs. The fares subjoined are for one-horse cabs in the Inner Town,
to which nearly the whole of the area of our Plan belongs. The driver
is called '■Vognmand\ Per drive for 1, 2, 3, or 4 pers. 50, 60, 80 0., 1 kr. ;
per hour (1-4 pers.) I1/2 kr. ; for each addit. pers. 25 0.' At night (11 p.m.
to 8 a.m. from 1st May to 30th Sept. ; 10 p.m. to 9 a.m. during the rest
of the year) : one pers. 80 0., 2 pers. 1 kr., 3 pers. 1 kr. 30, 4 pers. 1 kr. 500.
Luggage up to 66 lbs. free.
Electric Tramways (uniform fare 10 0., or with transfer 15 0.). The
stations of main interest to si rangers are near the Storthings-Bygning
(PI. E, 3, 4; p. 13). Just to the W. of this, in the EidsvoldsPlads, the
lines from the i^st-Banegaurd (PI. F, 4) to Ukarj^sno (PI. A, 3; p. 18), to
Majorstuen (PI. C, 1; p. 20), and to Frogner (PI. B, 2, 1), which f.illow the
same rails to beyond the Slotspark , intersect with the line from
Munkedams-Veien (PI. D, 4) to Griinerlekken (PI. G, 1, 2), iSandaker, and
Grefsen (p. 52). The line from Homanshy (PI. D, 2) to Oslo (PI. H, 5), with
branch-lines to Vaalerengen and Kampen, also pa?ses close by, while along
Carl-Johans-Gaden. en the N. side of the Storthings-Bygning, run the
lines from the Fmslnings-Brygge to St. Hanshaugen (PI. E, 1 ; p. 17),' and from
the Fcestnmgs-Bnjgge to Bodelekken (PI. H, 1), and to Sagene, etc.
Boats in the Baadhavn (PI. F 5, D, 4), for rowing or sailing, with man,
about 11/2 kr. per hour (no fixed tarilT). Often difficult to find a boatman
(Baadmand, Fmrgemand).
Post and Telegraph Offices (PI. F, 4), corner of Kirke-Gaden and Carl-
Johans-Gaden. Post Office ojien from 8 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. ; Sundays 8-9 a.m.
and 5-6 p.m. Telegraph Office daily from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. ; also at night
for foreign telegrams. — Telephone Stations ('Talestationer') in various
parts of the town (fee 10 0.).
Banks (open 10-2). A'^orsk Credit-Bank, Kirke-Gaden 24-; Christiania
Bank og Credit- Kasse, Stor-Torvet, W. side; Norges Bank, Bank-Plads;
Central-Banken for Norge, Toldbod-Gaden 20; Christiania Privat-Bank, Carl-
Johans-Gaden 2; Handels-Bank, Prjnds'ns-Gadcn 9. Circular notes may
136 changed at any of these.
\otes. CHRISTIANIA. 2. Route. H
Consulates. British consul-general, ffon. Chat. S. Dtmdas, Prinsens-
Oailcn 9; vice-cnnsii], Mr. Edward F. Gray. American consul, Mr. Henry
Bordewich, Torvct 2-, vice-consul, Mr. L. Brona. — Lloyd's Agent, Mr. E
Thnrlijornsen, Skipper-Ciaden 14.
Shops. (Pnrchnses should not be made in the presence or by the advice ol
guides or couriers, as tlieir commission is apt to be added to the price.]
Booksellers: Atchehong <i- Co., Carl Juhans-Gaden 43, near the University;
Cammerm.eyer''s Bogliandel. Carl-Johans-Gaden 41 ; /. W. Cappelen, Kirke-
Gaden 15-, Dyhwad, Carl-Johans-Gaden 81. — Music Sellers: Bredrene Hals,
Slorthings-Gaden 26; Karl Warmulh and Olvf By, Carl-Johans-Gaden 2,5<fe 45.
— Jewellers (mited for filigree work and enamel): T. Prytz, successor of
J. Toslriip. Carl-Johans-Gaden 25, opposite the Storthing; TImne , Carl-
Johans-Gaden, 8. side, near 0vre Slots -Gaden; Andersen. Prin?ens-
Gadeii 12, corner of Kirke-Gaden; Den Norskc Filigrans-Fahrik, Carl-Johans-
Gaden 20, cor. of Akers-Gaden. — Wood Carvings, Embroidery, etc.: Den
Norske Hvs^flidsforcning, Carl-Johans-Gaden 45. — Art Dealers: Blomtvist,
Carl-Johans-Gaden 35 (pictures by Norwegian artists; adm. 50 «r.). — Photo-
{;raphic Articles: X<'.rlie7i, Nedre Slots-Gaden 13; Abel, 0vve. Slots-Gadcn 7,
Carl-Johans-Gaden 35 (dark room for tourist.s). — Travelling Requisites:
t^lei'ii tl- fitrem, Prinsens-Gadcn 23; W. Schmidt, Carl-Johans-Gaden 41. —
Stationery and Drawing Materials: Pnrmann & Co., Carl-Johans-Gaden 39. —
Sporting Articles (for hunting and fishing; ige-axes; snowshoes): Torgersen
<{: Co., Carl-.lohans-Gaden 25; Hagen d- Co., Kirke-Gaden 19. — Furs:
Baeker, Koiigens-Gaden 31. — Preserved Meats, etc.: C. J. Christophersen
if- Co., Carl-Johans Gaden, corner of Dronningens-Gaden, under the Hotel
Skandinavie; Bergwitz, Jfefvrc Slots-Gaden, at the corner of Carl-Jolians-
Gadcn. — Cigars: Havana Magasinel, Storthings-Plads, corner of Carl-Johans-
Gaden; Gleicrsen, Carl-Johans-Gaden 27; Lorentzen, Carl-Johans-Gaden 33.
Tourist Offices. T. Bennett og Senner, Carl-Johans-Gaden 35; F. Beyer
(manager, Uaralil Manning), Carl-Johans-Gaden 33, corner of Rosenkrantz-
Gaden (information concerning circular tickets, etc. ; large stock of ph<ito-
graphs, etc., at both of these); Thos. Cook if: Son, Akers-Gaden 20, behind
the Storlhings-Eygning. — Comp. Introd., p. xiv.
Steamers to London every second Thursday; to Hull on Fridays; to
Grangemouth (Glasgow) weekly; to Newcastle weekly; to Lirerpool fort-
niglitly; to Gotenhurg five times and to Copenhagen thrice weekly direct, and
once touching at Frederikshavn ; to Christian sand daily; to Bergen daily;
to Trondhjem four times weekly; to Hamburg. Amsterdam, Antwerp, etc.
All these vessels start from the Toldbod-Bryg^e. the Fff.'-tnings-Brygge, or
the Jernbane-Brygge (PI. D, K, 1). — Small steamers ply from the Jernbane
livsgi^e tci Moss, Horlen, Fredriksslad, etc., and from Piperviken to Fredriks-
borg (see p. 18). Comp. "Norges Communicationer'.
Baths. Christiania-Bad, at the corner of Munkedanisveien and Ring.s-
gangen, nearly opposite the University, with modern appliances. Turkish
baths, etc. — Bathing in the fjord: best on i\\e. Bygde (^. 17), a,i Bygdena's-
Bad (PI. A, 5), on the K., to which steamers plv every V< l""- from the
Piperviks-Brygge (PI. B, 7; D, E, 4); at Bnyde-Sehad (p. 18), on the W.,
to which steamers from Piperviken also ply hourly, in '/z hr. (bathing-
ticket, obtained in the restaurant at the wharf, 15-25 0.). The water of
the fjord is only slightlv salt. The rise and fall of the tide averages
1-2 ft. only.
Theatres. National Theatre (PI. E, 3) in the Eidsvolds - Plads (p. 13).
open in winter only, orchestra 5, parquet A 3V-', parquet B 3kr. ; Central
Theatre, Akers-Gaden H8, comedies; Eldorado, Torv-Gaden 9, near Stor-
Torvet, operettas and comedies. — At the Tivoli (PI. E, 3), Eidsvolds-
Plads. opposite the National Theatre, concerts and variety entertainments
daily (adm. 50 0., and various extra payments).
English Church (St. Edmund's), in M0ller-Gaden. Service at 11 a.m.
Chaplain, Rev. G. E. Mooney, M. A.
Chief Attractions. Walk throush Carl - Joh.ins - Gaden (p. 12). The
i /kings' Ships (p. 13; Sun., Mod., & Frid.. 12-2; at other times for a fee).
12 Route 2. CHRISTIANIA. History.
Afuseumo/Arl (p. 14; Sun., 12-2, Tues., Wed., Thurs.,& Frid., 12-3; at other
timea for a fee). Views from Si. Hanshangen{-p. 17) and OncarfhalH\>. 18).
The excursion to Frognersceter and the HolmenioUen (p. 20) and the steamer-
trip round the Fjord (p. 21) may be strongly recommended.
Christinnia , the capital of Norway , is beautifully situated at
the foot of pine-clad hills, at the N. end of the Christiania Fjord
and on the W. bank of the small Akers-Elv (in 59" 54' N. lat. and
10°50'E. long.). The mediaeval town of Oslo lay on the E..bank of
the river. It was founded by Harald Haardraada about 1050, and was
afterwards a station of the Hanseatic League. In the cathedral of
St. Halvard several Norwegian kings were interred, and .James I. of
England married Anne of Denmark here in 1589. In 1547 Oslo was
burned down by its inhabitants to prevent its falling into the hands
of Swedish besiegers, and it was again destroyed by Hre in 1624. The
same year Christian IV. of Denmark laid the foundation of the
modern town, to the N. of the old fortress of Akershus, and named
it after himself. In 1686, 1708, and 1858 Christiania suffered
severely from conflagrations. The population (almost entirely Pro-
testant) in 1815 was 11,000; in 1855 it was 32,000; in 1875 it
was 96,000; in 1885 it was 131,000; in 1894 it was 183,000; and
it is now estimated at 228,000.
Christiania is the seat of the Norwegian government, of the
supreme law-courts , of the Storthing or parliament, of a univer-
sity, and of a bishop. Its trade is considerable; the chief exports
arc timber, packing paper, paving stones, herrings and other flsh,
beer, and ice. The town owns about 150 sailing-vessels and 200
steamers. In and near the city are numerous engine-works, nail-
factores, ship-building works, breweries, cotton-mills, and paper-
factories. — Many of the most recent additions to the buildings of
Christiania are noteworthy for the handsome materials used in their
construction (granite, reddish syenite, and 'Labrador stone' ; see p. 8).
The principal street is Carl - Johans - Gauen (PL F 4, E 3),
extending from the Hoved - Baneyaard (principal railway-station;
PI. F, 4), at the E. end, to the Slot or palace at the W. end, a
distance of 8/4 M. Following this street from the station, we soon
reach (right) the Stok-Torv (PI. F, 3, 4; 'great market'), usually
known as Torvet ('the market'), with a Statue of Christian /V., by
Jacobsen (1874). On the E. side of the Torv rises the —
Vor Frelsers Kirke, or Church of Our Saviour , consecrated in
1697, and restored by C/idteaimet// of Hamburg in 1849-50. The
altar-piece is by i^. Steinle of Diisseldorf , and the marble font by
Fladager (p. 14). — In Torv-Gaden, to the N. of the Torv,
is the Dampkjjgkken {^ste&m kitchen'), founded in 1858, where about
2000 persons are daily provided with dinners for 25-50 0. each.
Beyond the Stor-Torv begins the busiest section of Carl-Johans-
Oadcii. Among the handsome shops may be noticed Tostrup-
Uaarden (No. 26), a striking edifice by Fiirst & llarestecn, adorned
Vniversily. CIIRISTIANIA. 2. Route. 13
with wrought iron-work. — On the S. side of the street stands
the —
Storthings-Bygning (PI. F, 3j, or hall of the Norwegian Par-
liament, designed by Langlet, and completed in 1866. The chief
fa(;ade, flanked with two lions in granite by Borch, looks towards
the Eidsvolds-Plaus, a handsome square planted with trees. The
interior is shown by the 'Vagtmester' or custodian (to be found at the
entrance from Storthings - Gaden, on the S. side; fee ^/okr.).
The Storthing s-Sal contains a large painting by Oscar Wergeland,
representing the first discussion of the Norwegian constitution
(p. Ixxvii). — In Akers-Gaden, to the S. of the Storthing Build-
ing, is a monument to the poet J. H. Vessel (d. 1785). Opposite is
tlie Masonic Lodge (1893), by H. Nissen (cafe and restaurant, see
\). 10). — In the Eidsvolds-Plads is a statue of the poet Henrilc
Wtnjelaii^l Id. 184;')), by Bergslien. On the W. side of this Plads
rises the National Theatre (Fl. E, ?>), erected in 1895-99 hy Henrik
JJall, with colossal statues of Ibsen and Bjernson by Stephen Sind-
ing. Beyond is a bronze statue of Johan Brtinn, the actor, by
B. Bergslien. — At No. 14 Storthings-Ciaden is the Art Union.
The University (PI. E, 3), founded by Frederick VI. of Denmark
in 1811, has five faculties with 63 professors and 20 lecturers, whose
coiiises are attended by about 1400 students. It consists of three
buildings, and was erected in 1841-53 by Grosch, whose design was
partly suggested by Schinkel of Berlin. The central building, in
front of which rises a statue of the Norwegian jurist and politician
Ant. Martin Sckweigaard (d. 1870), by Middelthun, contains lecture-
rooms and scientific collections. The E. wing, known as the
Domus Academica, contains the Aula ; the Collection of Northern
Antiquities here is to be transferred to the new Historical Museum
(p. 15). In the W. wing is the Library (375,000 vols.).
In the court at the back of the central building of the Univer-
sity are woodeu sheds containing two ^Vikings' Ships (Sun., Mon.,
& Frid., 12-2 ; at other times shown by the 'Vagtmester', who lives
on the groundfloor of the central building; fee 25 0.). These will
also be shortly transferred to the new Historical Museum (p. 15).
As the ancient Germanic kings were buried with their war-steeds, so
the Viking chiefs were laid to rest with their arms and their treasures in
their ships. Cine of the two sliown here vvas found at Thune in the Auit
of Smaalene in 1867, and the other at Gogstad, near Sandefjord (p. 34),
in 1880; and both owe their preservation from decay to the blue clay in
which they were imbedded. The ship from Gogstad, in the newer shed,
is the better preserved. Its total length from stem to stern is 112 ft.,
length of keel G6 ft., breadth 16 ft. To the mast in the centre a large
Square-sail was attached by means of a pulley. In the third plank from
the top are sixteen rowlocks. The rudder was placed on the right side
(whence 'starboard', originally the .steering side). By the mast vvas placed
the wooden tomb-cliamher, which was found empty, having probably been
pillaged at an early period. — The other ship is in fragments. The older
slied in which these lie al.so contains several old chunli-paintiugs from
the llallingdal.
14 Route 2. CHRISTIANIA. Museum of Art.
To the N. of the University, in Universitets-Gaden, is the
*Museum of Art (Kunsimusttt; PI. E, 3j, built in the Italian Re-
naissance style by Adolf Srhmncr, and presented to the town by
the Christiania Savings Bank. Wings uncompleted. Admission on
Sun., 12-2, and on Tues., Wed., Thurs., and Frid., 12-3; at other
times on application to the 'Vagtmester' (on the W. side of the
building; fee '/2-I kr.).
The Ground Floor contains the Sculpture Gallery (historical
and critical catalogue by Prof. Dietrichson, 50 e.). The Vestibule
and three adjoining Rooms contain the Casts of Ancient Sculptures,
and the Staircase and Hall the Casts of Renaissance and Modern
Sculptures. The following original works may also be noted: in the
vestibule, Aid. S. Sinding (h. 1846), Mother bearing her fallen son
from the battle; on the staircase, 117, IIH. F/arfat/er (1832-71),
Angel with font (model and sketch); Krist. Borch (1817-90), 395.
Jephthah's Daughter, HOO. The fir t lesson, 397. David; 420.
Math. Skeihrok (b. 1851 j, Uagnar Lodbrok among the serpents.
A double staircase ascends to the Upper Floor, which contains
tlie National Gallery, founded in 1837. At the head of the stair-
case is the vestibule, with Sinding's *Man and Wife and Viye-
land's Sleeping Girl. It also contains the Netherlandish and earlier
Norwegian pictures. To the left is the main room of the early
schools. (Here also are a marble bust of Bjernson, by Vigeland, and
the Captive Mother, by Sindiny.) — The works of Norwegian painters
begin In the room to the right of the vestibule, and are continued
through the next and three smaller rooms to the room next to that
reserved for the old masters. The representative names among Nor-
wegian artists include J. C. C. Dahl, who became professor in the
Academy of Arts at Dresden in 1824; Eckersberg, Cappelen, Morten
Midler, Arbo, Stoltenberg-Lerche, Munthe, and other artists wlio
clustered round Ad. Tidemand and H.F. Gude at Diisseldorf betsveen
1850 and 1870; Amaldus Nielsen, Oito Sinding, and others who
studied somewhat later at Carlsruhe and Munich; and, lastly, Fritz
Tbaulow, Krogh, Eilif Petersen, Skredsoig, Werenskiold, N. G. Wentzel,
F.Kolsle, G. Munthe, and other 'Impressionist' masters of the present
day, who studied in Paris. — Historical and critical catalogue by
Prof. Dietrichson, 1 kr.
The collection is annually extended and is frequently re-arranged.
We mention the most important works in the alphabetical order of their
painters' names, which are attached to the frames. The most recent
acquisitions bear no numbers.
Ancient Masters. Italian School: *1. Old copy of Leonardo da VincPs
Blona Lisa; 12. B. Strozzi, The tribute -money. • — Flemish and Dutch
.Schools: '-'22. Pieter Claeissens, Portrait of himself; 24. Francken the
Elder, The works of charity; 28. Pourbus the Younger, Portrait; 32. Al.
Adriaenssen, Still-life; 34. Jac. Jordaens, Allegorical representation of
the blessings of the Peace of Westphalia ; *38. Jan Fiji, Fight between dogs
and wolves; ''59. Ilellemans, Forest-scene, with sheep by /. Verboeckhoven ;
03. Mierevelt, Portrait ; '71. RavesUyn, Portrait of a woman ; 73. J. run Goyen,
Sea-piece; *'81. Jan Davidsz de J/eem, Oysters and Khenish wine; 84. tSchool
National Gallery CIIRISTIANIA. ?. Route. 15
of 0. Doitf Sclioolmaster; SG. £. van der Heist (V), Man with a ylass of wine ;
91. 0. LuMtltns, Jlau and wife; "1U4. M. cf I/ondecoete); i)og, cat, and game.
— Herman .School : 134, 135. Jlari/t. Behmn, Portraits of 'Hans Lissalcz'
and 'Magdalena Pittricliin' ; Lucas Cranach, Nynipb, Garden of Love.
Modern Foreign Masters. *145. Seibold, Portrait of a man; 165, 167.
Anion Graffs Portraits; 17C. C. F. Lessing, Scene On the Rhine; Til.
H. Jovduii, Family worship; 180, 181. A. Achenbach, Beach at Scheve-
ningen; 1S3. 0. Achenbach, Italian landscape — French Masters: 328.
Claude Monet, Showery weather at Etretat; 329. Raff'aelli, Sunny street.
Norwegians. 279. P. N. Arbo fl831-92), Asgaardsreien ('The Wild
Hunt'); 281. A. Askevold (b. 18134), Summer's day on a mountain-lake;
'241. Baade (1808-79), Moonlight on the Norwegian coast; Harriet Bakler
(b. 1845), 'Chez moi'; 272. K. Bergslien (b. 1827J, Portrait of his father;
27tj. i'. Dodom (1829-79), Scene in Nordmarken ; Jac. Bratland, Sunday;
//. A. C'appelen (1827-52), -267. Forest-scene in Teleinarken, 2C8a. Water-
fall in Telemarken; J. C. C. Dahl (1788-1857), 230. Laurvik, 231. Water-
fall; SiijtB. Dahl (1). 1827), Portrait of his father. Prof. J. C. C. Dahl; J. F,
Eckersberg (182'2-iO), 253. Valle in the Sffitersdal, 254. Mountain-scenery;
'I'll. Fearnley (180'2-42), 235. The Labrofos, 236. Grindelwald Glacier;
331. Grimelund (b. 1842), Mexico Dock at Antwerp; //. F. Gude (b. 182C),
258. Norwegian landscape, 259. Wounfain-view, 261. CUristiania Fjord,
262. Before the rain, 263. Scene in North Wales; 355. Nils Gude, Portrait
of bis father, the painter H. F. Gude; 285. Karl Hansen (b. 1841), In
captivity; Han^ Heyerdahl (b. 1857), 300d. Aa.'^gaardstrand, 300 e. Family
pirty, 300 g. Portrait of himself; Seen JOrgensen (b. 1861), Family por-
trait's; 359a. Fred. Kolste (b. 1860), Salmon-fisber looking after his nets.
Chr. Krogh {h. 1852), 360. The struggle for existence; no number, On the
Norway coast; no number, Old lady; no number, Bad news. P. 8. KreyL'r,
Music in the studio; Morten Midler (b. 1S28), 273. Scene on the Christiania
Fjord, 274. Hardanger Fjord; 306. Gerh. Munthe (b. 1849), A summer's
day; Ludwig Miint/ie (b. 1841), '287. Coast-scene in winter, 287a. Autumn
evening; 299. Am. Nielsen (b. 1338), On the Hardanger Fjord ; Eilif Petersen
(b. 1852), 289. Portrait of a lady, 289a. Siesta, 289b. Old woman, 289c.
Portrait of the Norwegian composer Ed. Grieg; 303. 0. Binding (b. 1842),
Scime in the Lofoten Islands; Joachim Hkovgaard , The Good Shepherd;
304. Chr. Skredsvig (b. 1854), Genre-scene from Northern France; 283.
Stoltenberg - Lerche (,i^31-^d3). Payment of the tithes at the convent; Fritz
Thaulow (b. ISll), 301. Uoad in Krager0; 301a. Hougfos, near Modum :
Adolf Tidemnnd (1814-76), "246. A solitary couple (family worship in a
cottage), "247. Meeting of the llaugianer (a religious sect), 248. The dying
bear-hunter, 24Se. Worship in a Norwegian country- church; 803. Karl
Uclierman (b. 1855), Flemish team. N. G. Wentzel (b. 1859), 332. Old couple;
no number, Dancing peasants in the Ssetersdal. E. Werenskiold (b. 18r)5),
302. Girl from Telemarken, "3023. Funeral of a peasant, 302b. Portrait
of Bj0rnstjerne Bj^rnson, 302c. Portrait of the mathematician O. J. Broch
on his death-bed.
Farther to the N., at the corner of Universitets - Gaden and
Pilestrceden, is the Museum of Industrial Art (PI. 19; E, 2, 3),
founded in 1S77, containing interesting specimens of Norwegian
embroidery, trinkets, 'Herrebe' fayence, medieval reliquaries
resembling the old timber -churches (p. 29), Chinese porcelain,
lacquer work, etc. (open free, Sun. 12-2, Mon. & Frid. 12-3). A
new building, which will also accommodate the Royal School of
Alts aTid Handicrafts, is in progress on Ullevoldsveien (p. 17).
The Historical Mu8eum(Plan 11 ; E, 3), in a large new building
ill Fredriks-Gaden, is now approaching completion. The ground-
lloor is to be devoted to the Northern AnthiuUies, whilethe C ahlnet
(
16 RouU 2. CHRISTIANIA. falace.
of Coins and the Ethnographical Collection are to be exhibited on
the middle and upper floors.
The Collection of Kokthern ANTitiUiTiEs, which has hitherto been
housed in the Donma Academica (p. 13), includes remains of the stone,
bronze, and iron or Viking periods ; niediseval objects of the ll-16th cent.,
among which the beautifnlly carved doors of destroyed 'Stavekirker'
(p. 29) de.serve special notice; and objects from the period since 1500.
The two Viking Ships (p. 13) are also to be transferred to this section. —
The Cabinet of Coins contains upwards of 45,000 coins and medals. —
By far the most important part of the Ethnogkaphical Collection is the
Scandinavian Department.
On a height at the W. end of the town, in the beautiful Slots-
park, stands the V Skl&ce [Slot ; PI. D, 3), a plain edifice with a class-
ical portico, erected in 1825-48.
The interior is shown by the 'Vagtmester'. who lives on the sunk
fioor of the S. wing (daily, 12-2; fee i/a kr. for each member of a party).
The staircase is embellished with two reliefs in marble: on the right,
Charles XIV. .lohn laying the foundation-stone of the palace, by Stephan
funding: on the left, Oscar II. unveiling the statue of Charles .lohn, by
M. iSki'ibrok. The Festsal is borne by Corinthian columns ; Dining Room
in the Pomptian style; the walls of the Throne Room, the Drawing
Room, and the Audience Chamber are hung with landscapes by Flinto.
The private apartments contain paintings and sculptures by Norwegian
artists (amonn them Tiedemands Village Catechising, and 0. Sinding's Battle
of Svolder), mostly presented to the king and queen on their silver-wedding
in 1882. — Fine 'View from the roof.
In front of the palace rises an Equestrian Statue of Charles XIV.
John (Bernadotte), by Brynjulf Bergslien (d. 1898), inscribed with
the king's motto 'The people's love is my reward'.
The extensive modern quarter (PI. D, 1 , 2) to the N. of the
palace park , named Homanshy after its founder , consists of villas
and gardens. — To the S.E., above Rusel^kveien, is the Victoria
Terrace (PI. D, 3), conspicuous from the sea. Below are two rows
of shops, one over the other, and above them are three large turreted
dwelling-houses.
From the Storthing Building Akers-Gaden leads to the S.
to the Johanues-Kirke (PI. E, 4), a brick edifice by Bull, com-
pleted in 1878. Altar-piece by E. Petersen ('Kirketjener' or sac-
ristan, Akers-Gaden 1). — Opposite the church, to the N., is the
Christiania Savings Bank, built by H. Nissen in 1900, with its
elaborate fagade turned towards 0vre Slots-Gaden.
Farther to the W., at the comer of Raadhus - Gaden (No. 25)
and Nedre Vold-Gaden, is the new Seamen's Home. — Raadhus-
Gaden ends on the W. at the Tobdenskjolds-Plaus (PI. E, 4),
with is embellished with a statue, by Axel Ender (1901), ot Pedtr
Vessel Tordenskjold, the commander of the Danish-Norwegian fleet
in the War of the North (pp. Ixxiv; 221).
The Fortress of AkershusfPl.E, 5) was unsuccessfully besieged
by Duke Eric of Sweden in 1310, by Christian 11. of Denmark in
1531-32, and by the Swedes again in 1567 and in 1716 (under
Gharles XII.). It is now used as an arsenal and a prison. The
Si. Hanshaiigen. CHRISTIANIA. 2. Route 17
garrison-church is within its precincts. Permission to visit the
Artillery Museum and Collection of "Weapons is obtained at the oftice
of the 'Feldteimester', in the Fsestnings-Plads, opposite the main
(W.) entrance to the fortress.
In AKERS-GiBEx, to the N. of Karl-Jolians-Gaden, are the new
Courts of Ju<tice (PI. 19.; F. 3), hnilt hy Sparre, and new Govern-
ment Offices (PI. F. 3), bi gun in 1902. — Farther to the N. is the
Trefoldigheds-Kirke [Pl. F, 2), or Trinity Church, a Gothic edi-
fice witli a dome, partly designed by Chdteauneuf, and erected in
1853-58. The interior, a handsome octagon, contains an altar-
piece by Tidemand and a font with an angel by Middelthun. — A
little to the W.. at the corner of Keysers-Gaden and Munch-Gaden, is
the Enkeknsse (Widows' Fundi, in the Florentine style, by Befdtker.
By the Roman Catholic St. Olafs-Kirke (Fl. F, 2), erected in
1853, Akers-Gaden divides into Akersveien, to the right, and
Ulevoldsveien. to the left, the latter leading direct in 10 min., the
former past the Gamle Aliers-Kirke in 1/4 hr. to St. Hanshaugen.
Between these two roads lies Vor Frelsers Gravlund (PI. E, F, 2),
a well-kept cemetery, which deserves a visit. It may be entered
by the lower gate and left by the upper. — In Akersveien, a little
to the N. of the cemetery, rises the Gamle Akers-Kirke (PI. F, 1),
mentioned before 1150, and perhaps founded by King Olaf Kyrre.
The church, which is a basilica in the Anglo-Norman Romanesque
style, is now closed owing to its precarious condition.
*St. Hanshaugen, or 'St. John's Hill' (PI. E, 1; 280 ft.), is
laid out as a public promenade. On the top is a reservoir of the
city water-works, the tower of which commands an excellent survey
of the town, the fjord with its islands, the Ekeberg to the left, Os-
carshall to the right, and the Frognersffiter on the hill to the N.W.
The attendant, for wiiom the visitor rings, names the chief points
and offers the use of a telescope (fee). Below the water-basin is a
seated figure of P. C. Asbjernsen, the writer of fairy-tales, by B. Bergs-
lien. Near the lower entrance (a station of the electric trnmway,
p. 10) is a good Restaurant (music in the evening), and farther on
is a so-called Sportstue (p. 20), two tasteful wooden buildings in
the Norwegian style, by H. Munthn.
Environs of Christiania.
The BYGD0 13 most conveniently visited frim Christiania either by
the Electric Trnnucty (p. 10), from the stations of .Skillebfek and Skarpsno,
from which we reach the ferrie.s in a few minutes, or by the small S'ewners
which ply every V2-I hr. between Piperviken (PI. D, E, 4) and various \
points on the Bygda (fares 10-20 t<.). — The milway-station for Bygd'3 (p. 22),
which is now called i<k-eien, i' about 1 M. to the N. of Oscarhall.
The peninsula of Bygd«, to the W. of Christiania, with tte^
royal chateau of Oscarshall, the National Norwegian Museum, and
two sea-bathing resorts, affords a charming object for an afternoon
excursion. Its N. portion resembles a well-wooded park.
Bakdkkkr's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 1
18 Route 2, ORCARSHALL. Environs
The Electric Tramway Collows Drammensveien (PI. 1), C, 3j,
which is flanked by numerous vLllas. About '/4 M. to the S. of the
station of Skillebctk (PI. B, 4), at the end of the Framnasvei, is the
pier of the steam-launch (10 e.) which crosses to Dronningen (see
below). A flnger-post at the station of Skarpsno (PI. 3) indicates
the way to the steam-ferry to Oscarshall (5 e. ; from the landing-
place on the other side we ascend to the left to the chateau iu6min.).
The most important stations of the Steamers starting from
Piperviken are the following, on the E. side of the peninsula.
1. Christiania and Bygde Line (Com. 152): Bygdenaes Bad (PI. A, 5;
p. 11); Dronningen (PI. A, 4), a rocky islet connected with the
Bygde by a floating bridge and containing the restaurant of the
Royal Yacht Club (p. 10; from the W. end of the bridge we reach
the path leading from Fredriksborg to Oscarshall); Oscarshali
(see below ; pier adjoining that of the above-named steam-ferry). —
2. Chrislianin and Fredriksborg Lino (Com. 150): Fredriksborg, a
summer-resort on the bay of Langviken (PI. A, 5) consisting of a
group of villas and pleasure-gardens. To reach (20-25 min.) Oscars-
hall from this point we take the footpath leading past the Fredriks-
borg Tivoli to (3 min.) a broad path; then follow the latter to the
right and again turn to the right (t/4 hr.) beyond the Norwegian
National Museum (about 3 min. farther on, to the leff, arc the ancient
Norwegian buildings mentioned at p. 19). — 3. A special direct line
of steamers (Com. 164) skirts the Bygde to the Bygde Sebad (p. 11),
which lies on its N.W. bank. The route hence to (26-30 min.)
Oscarshall passes 'Paraplyen' and the ancient Norwegian buildings.
The chateau of *0scar8hall (80 ft. ; PI. A, 4) was erected in the
English Gothic style by Nebelong for King Oscar I. in 1849-52, and
is adorned with paintings by Norwegian artists. It deserves a visit
for the' sake of the view. (Apply to the 'Vagtmester', who lives at
the back of the chateau, on the S.W. side; fee 1/2"! '^'"O
The Dining Room, on the groundfloor of the smaller separate build-
ing, is adorned with Norwegian landscapes by J. Frich, above which are
ten famous works by A. Tidemand (p. 15), representing 'Norsk Bondeliv',
or Norwegian peasant life. — The Drawing Room, on the groundfloor
of the principal building, with its oak panelling, is embellished with
statues of Harald Haarfager, Olaf Trygvason, St. Olaf, and Sverre, in
zinc, by MicheUen. — A room on the 1st floor contains nine bas-reliefs
from FrithjoTs Saga, by C. Borch, and four fine landscapes by H. Qudf.
(comp. p. 133) from the same Saga. — Several rooms on the 2nd floor
contain paintings, wood-carvings, portraits, and relics.
We now ascend by a winding staircase of 28 steps to the flat roof of
the chateau, from which 43 steps more lead us to the top of the tower,
where we enjoy a charming 'View of Christiania, its fjord, and its en-
virons (best by evening-light).
The main road, running to theW. from the Vagtmester's house,
leads to (10 min.) the ancient Norwegian buildings (see p. 19).
The road diverging to the left from this leads to the Norwegian
National Museum (reached from either Dronningen or Fieri riksborg
ill 20 min.; comp. above).
/nil'
^^ I Store- y
—3 1:80. 000
of Christiania. EKEBERG. 2. Route. 19
The Norwegian National Museum (^Norsk Folke - Museum ;
open 11-11, the collections only till 8 p.m.; adm. 70 e.; descriptive
guide 40 0.), opened in 1902, is to be gradually extended in the
style of Skansen near Stockholm (p. 345). The Entrance Gate is a
reproduction of one of the city-gates of Bergen, datiug from 1628.
Continuing in a straight direction, past the storehouse, we reach an
open space, where we see in front of us the so-called Ridehus, and
to the left the so-called church, both constructed in Christiania
after antique models. The 28 rooms of the Ridehus contain textile
fabrics, furniture, pictures, and domestic utensils from the various
provinces of Norway. Those from the Gudbrandsdal (Rooms 5-7) are
especially elaborate^ while those from Telemarken (KR. 11-15) are
unique in their style of art. The objects from Christiania (RR. 17-21)
ai\d the W. Coast (RR. 22-2o) show strong marks of foreign in-
fluence. The Church contains carved and painted altar-pieces,
pulpits, and other ecclesiastical objects of the 16th, 17th, and
(especially) 18th centuries. Behind the Ridehus are five old cottages
from various provinces, the oldest of which is the Raulandsstue, with
a carved doorway and a Runic inscriptions of a date not later than
1300. Passing the church, we cross the street to the restaurant of
(rildestuen, wliere a concert is given every evening.
An extension of the Museum takes the form of a group of inter-
esting old Norwegian buildings, re-erected in a clearing a little
to the N. and approached by a wooden portal in the ancient Norse
style. In the centre is the *Church of Gol in the Hallingdal (p. 45),
a 'Stavekirke' or timber -built church of the 12th or 13th cent,
(comp. p. 29), first known to us in 1309, brought to this spot in 1884,
and freely restored, partly after the model of the church of Borgund
(p. 58). Around it are placed several farm-houses, including one
from Telemarken, fitted up with the original furniture, storehouses,
and so on (attendant 25 e. for each person). — Close by is the
Landbrugs- Museum, a collection of ancient agricultural implements
(daily, 10-2 and 4-7).
The road called 'Bygdeveien' leads hence to the N., passing the
farm of Kongsgaard, to (8/4 M.) the Saterhytte, a restaurant on the
Dronningbjerg. Saeterhytte is also a station of the steamers from
Piperviken, but is not often called at.
The Ekeberg : By Kledric Tramway from the Storthing (E. side, by
Akers-Oailcn) via the Stor-Torv to the end of the 8\iburb of Oslo (coin)i.
P1.FQ4, H5); or by Steamer from the Jernbane-Brygge (PI. F, 4) to Kongs-
havn or Ormsumi (about 12 times daily).
A few paces beyond the terminus of the tramway (PI. H, 6) we
reach the point where 'Ljabroveien' and 'Kongsveien' diverge from
each other. The former, to the right, skirts the railway and the
fjord. Kongsveien (left), which we follow, ascends along the slope
of the Ekeberg (400 ft.). After about 12 min. a footpath diverges
to the right and ascends to a rocky knoll, which affords a beautiful
•) *
20 Route 2. HOLMENKOLLEN. ■ Envirom
view (best by morning-ligbt) of tbe harbour of Christiania with the
islands in front of it, and also of the Oraie to the S. About 40 paces
farther on another path to the left leads to some more points of view,
while Karlsborgveien, diverging to the right, descends through •wood
to (5 min.) the restaurant and sea-baths of Kongshavn (steamb.
Stat., see p. 19), situated on the Ljabro road about 1 M. from the
tramway-terminus. — Kongsveien runs through the wood, passing
a few modest inns (to the left, above), to (25 min.) a group of villas
named Bakkelaget (ahove the rail, station mentioned at p. 79) and
on to Ljan.
HoLMENKOLLBN and Frogners^tee, — From Mnjorstuen, the ter-
miaus of the city-tramway (p. 10; 10 (?!.), an electric railway pHea fo
Holmenkollen (25 min. up, 17 min. down ; fare 25 0.). running every !/■! hr.
on week-days and every 7i/-2 min. on Sundajs. — From Hdlmenkollen it
takes 30-40 min. to walk to Frognersceier. Thus the whole excursion,
there and back, takes 3^J2-^ hrs. — From Holmenkollen an omnibus runs
twice daily to the Voxenkollen (1 kr.).
The Holmenkollen Electric Railway (4 M.; stations not
shopped at except at the request of passengers) runs from Major-
stuen towards the N., passing several country-houses, till it reaches
a point near the large lunatic asylum of Ganslad. The railway now
begins to ascend, and beyond Rls it intersects a new villa-colony. —
2 M. Slemdal. Farther on the line leads through pine-forest, nearly
the whole of its course being over embankments or hewn out of the
living rock. The maximum gradient is 1 :25. The last station on
the line is Midstuen. We cross the old Frognersseter road by a lofty
bridge and run towards the S.W. to the terminus at (4 M.) Holmen-
kollen (797 ft.), which lies V4 ^r. below the hotel.
*Holmenkollen (1040 ft.), commanding a magnificent view of
Christiania and the fjord, is the most popular pleasure-resort in the
neighbourhood of the Norwegian capital, not only in summer but
also in winter, when snowshoeing ('skileb') is practised here with
great energy (important races in Feb.). At the top is a Tourist Hotel,
with a good restaurant (D. from 2 to 6 p.m. 2'/2 kr. or a la carte;
H. in de'pendance 2-6 kr.), erected in 1896-97, the rooms of which
are adorned with scenes by Norwegian painters. On the slope in
front (short-cut from the station), to the right, is a so-called Sportstue
(cafe and beer-house). — A 'bautasten' commemorates the visit of
Emp. William II. and King Oscar II. on July 2nd, 1890. The road
forks here, the branch to the right (see p. 21) being known as 'Keiser
Wilhelms Veien' and that to the left, leading to the Sanatorium
(pens. 35-45 kr. per week), as 'Kong Oskars Veien'.
From Kong Oskars Veien a path, diverging on the right near
the gate of the Sanatorium (which spans the road), leads to the left,
above the Besserud-Tjeru (p. 21) to (15-20 min.) the Holmenkoll-
taarn, the view-tower on the top of the Holmenkollen (1040 ft,).
Another path, diverging from this one to the right, about halfway
up, ascends to the Voxenkollen.
of ChrUtiania. FKOON'KHS.FTER. 2. Route. 21
Keiser Willielms Veien, connecting llolmeakullen with the
(l'/4 M.) FrognersaRter, runs almost all tlie way through wood.
After ';'2 M. we pass the Peisstue (rfmts.), situated on the Besserud-
Tjern (1015 ft.), an artificial lake, and in 10 inin. more, beyond a
new chapel, we reach the Wilhelmshei Hotel (D. 2 kr.), close to the
corner of the road to the Voseiikollen (see below). A 'bautasteu' here
commemorates Eivind Astrup, the Arctic traveller, who perished
on the Dovrefjeld in the winter of 1895-96. Passing the initials
0. II. W. II. cut in the rocks, we reach (1/4 hr.) the —
*Frogners8eter (1410 ft.), the country-seat of the l&te Consul
T. J. Heftye (d. 1886), purchased by the city of Christiania in
1889. It commands a beautiful view of Christiania and the fjord.
The Restaurant (to the left; fair) was built in 1891 by H. Muntbe, in
the Norwegian style ; the seats in the upper balcony are particularly
pleasant. The former Villa Heftye contains a collection of Norse
antiquities (adm. 25 c). There are also a few old Norwegian
timber-buildings, from Telemarken and the Hallingdal. To the E.
is a Sportstue (p. 20), for the sale of coffee, beer, wine, mineral
waters, etc.
The view i? still more extensive from a wooden scaffolding (with
mountain-indicator) on the Tryvandsh0ide (1702 ft.), to which we ascend
past the 0vre Frognersoeter in L'f) min. more In clear weather we see the
mountains of Telemarken to the X. (Gausta, p. 32), those of the Hallingdal
to the K.W. (Norofjeld, p. 44), and the hills on the Swedish frontier to
the E. — The Voxenkollen Sanatorium (see below) is reached from the 0vrc
Frognersrcter by a well-made woodland path in 20-25 minutes.
In returning to Christiania from the Frognersfeter walkers may follow
the old road, which descends immediately tn the E. of the Villa Heftye,
leads through wood to the ('/2 hr.) station of Midstuen (p. 20), and then
crosses the electric railway, passing a small 'bautasten'', erected to Heftye
'by the youth of Christiania.' Here it is met by the old Holmenkollen
road (right); it then pa'ses \h(i Fosheim Scci/iforium before reaching ('/o hr.)
aiMuial (p. 20).
The above-mentioned road (from which another diverges for the
Voxenkollen Hospice') leads from the Wilhelmshei Hotel to the W.,
past *Anne Kure's Hotel (1510 ft.; pens. 41/2-6 kr.), to the Voxen-
kollen (1560 ft.), a granite crag commanding a fine view, including
the Bogstadvand to theW. The road goes on to the (I'/i M. from the
■VVilhelmshei Hotel) large * Voxenkollen Sanatorium, kept by Dr. Holm
(1640 ft.; pens., with baths and electric light, 4'2-70 kr. per week).
The round trip (272 hrs.) in thi; Christiania Fjord made by the
steamer 'To risten' may be recommended in fine weather. The steamer
leaves Piperviken (PI. D, E, 4) twice daily (fare 2.1/2 kr.). Other
steamers also afford pleasant trips (Com. 140, 141, 144, 145, 161).
Another fine view of Christiania is obtained from the Hovedc, which
lies to the ,S. of the fortress uf Akershus (p. 16). The island, which is
included in the fiirtilications (powder-magazine), contains some remains of
a Cistercian abbey, founded by English monks in 1147 and destroyed in 1532.
Permission to visit the island is obtained at the office of the 'Feidt^imester'
(p. 17). Rowinz-boat from Piperviken or from Grev Wedels Plads, accordine to
tarirt', there and liack. iO**., 2 pors. 1 kr. 8i, 3 pers. 1 kr. 80, 4 pevs. 2 kr. 70 «.
22
3. From Christiania to the Randsfjord via Drammen
and Haugsund.
142 Kil. Railway (' Vestbanen') to (53 Kil.) Drammen^ express in I'/ihr.
ffares 2 kr. 90 0., 2 kr.), ordinary train in 2V4 hrs. (fares 2 kr. 40, 1 kr.
60 0.); thence to (89 Kil ) Randsfjord three trains daily in 3-4 hrs. (fares
4 kr. 20, 2 kr. 50 0.). Second and third class only. — The railway tra-
verses heautifnl scenery, particularly between R^iken and Drammen and
between Haugsund and H^nefos. Best views to the left.
The train starts from the Vest-Banegaard at Christiania (PI. D, 4;
p. 9}. To the left we soon obtain a view of the beautiful Christiania
Fjord and of the peninsula of Bygde, with the white chateau of
Oscarshall and numerous villas. — 3 Kil. Skeien, the station for
Bygde and Oscarshall (1 M. ; see p. 17). — 6 Kil. Lysaker^ at the
mouth of the Serkedals-Elv.
To the right rise the porphyry range of the Kolsaas (1255 ft. ;
extensive view) , the Skougumsaas, etc. The Silurian strata arc
here intersected by massive dykes of greenstone, especially near
(^iO Ki\.^ Hevik , where a dyke 2 ft. thick intersects the disinte-
grated slate. The train skirts the Enger-Vand, on the right.
13 Kil. Sandviken [Sandvikens hotel, beyond the bridge over
the Saiidviks-Elv, very fair and not dear; Skyds-Slation, near the
railway-station, towards the fjord), prettily situated on the fjord.
Fkom Sandviken to HeNEFos by eoad, 43 Kil. — By the 'mixed"
train from Christiania to Sandviken (60, 40 0. ; the express does not stop
here) ; thence by skyds, ordered by telephone the day before, to Sundvolden;
ascend Krogkleven; go on to Henefos in the afternoon (cariole from Sand-
viken to H0nefos 15, stolkjserre 22V2, carr. and pair 30 kr. ; charges lower
in the opposite direction, see p. 26).
The road crosses i)i& Sandviks-Elv , diverges to the right from the
Drammen road, and gradually ascends on the bank of the stream.
At the top of the hill, to the left, is the old church of Tanum; to
the right is the Kolsaas (see above). We next ascend the Isidal.
The highest point of the road lies 1U70 ft. above the sea.
15 Kil. (pay for 18) SoUihegda, in the wood. — The road is hewn
in the rock at places. Beyond a rocky gateway called Skaret our road
joins 'Svangstrands-Veien' (p. 23), coming from Drammen - Lier.
To the left, through the trees, we have glimpses of the Holsfjord,
the S.E. arm of the Tyrifjord (210 ft.), which lies far below us.
With its area of 50i/o sq. M., it takes the fourth place among the
lakes of Norway; its greatest depth is 920 ft. — Then a beautiful
descent to the fjord, the bank of which we follow to —
17 Kil. Sundvolden {Blybergs Hotel, fair, K. 1 1/2, »• or S- 1 V4 ^f- ;
not a skyds-station, but carriages for hire).
From Sundvolden we may ascend by a rough path (l)est in the morning;
there and back 2V2-3 hrs. ; horse 2 kr. 40 0.) to *Krogkleven, a rocky height
(Kiev, 'clift"), on the old road to Christiania. Ascending through a romantic
gorge, we first come to (3/4 hr.) Klcvstuen (1245 ft.), a rustic inn (B. &} 0.),
5 min. below which, to the N., is the Uronningens Udsiyt (Queen's View).
Continuing to ascend by the rough path diverging to the right in front of
KRiSTIANIA-KOr
RG-RINGERIKE
VIK. 3. Route. 23
I he iuii, and following the while crosses on the trues, we next reach the
('25-30 min.) "Kongens Udsiyt (King's View; 1450 ft. above the sea, 1240 ft.
ahove the fjordj Beautiful view, embracing the Tyrifjord with its islands,
the district of Riniierike, the Jonsknut near Kongsberg (p. 28), the Nore-
fjeld (i>. 44) to IheN.W., and the Gausta (p. 32) to the W. in the distance.
The view from the Gyrihaug (2215 ft.; 4 M. to the N.E. of Sundvolden)
is said to be even finer. According to the legend the numerous islands
in the Stecnsfjord are said to be stones once hurled by the giantess ('Gygr'
or 'Gy vr') of the Gyrihaug at the church of Steen (see below), which missiles,
however, including even one of her own legs, all came short of their aim
and fell into the lake. Like the battle of the giants against Odin and
Thor in the Edda, this legend is symbolical of the impotent wrath of
the powers of nature against the advance of human culture.
The road to Haaefos crosses the Krogsund, which connects the
Tyrifjord with the Steensfjord.
The next station, 3 Kil. from Sundvolden, is Vik (travellers
in the reverse direction drive on to Sundvolden without change of
horses). About 1/4 hr. farther on, on the right, are the ruined church
of Steen and (a little farther on) the tumulus of King Halfdan the
Black (d. 860), father of Harald Haarfager. After another 1/4 hr. the
road passes Norderhovs Kirke (375 ft.) and a memorial stone (to the
left, by the road) to Anna Kolbjernsdatter. She was the wife of the
pastor of the place, and in 1716, while her husband was ill, succeeded
by stratagem in betraying 600 Swedish invaders into the hands of
her countrymen.
8 Kil. Henefos, see p. 26.
The line to Drammen ascends through cuttings and two short
tunnels to (15 Kil.) Slabende and (20 Kil.) Hvalstad (219 ft.; Asker
Sanatorium), at the foot of the massive Skougumsaas (1140 ft.).
It then crosses a wooden viaduct, 90 ft. high.
23 Kil. Asker (340 ft.), with a new church. We skirt the foot of
the VardekoUe (1150 ft.), a granite peak rising to the S.W., and pass
the small lakes Bondivand (325 ft.) and Gjellumvand (315 ft.).
At the S. end of the latter is (29 Kil.) Heggedal, beyond which we
pass the base of the precipitous Jireimaas. Beyond (34 Kil.) Reken
(435 ft.) the line turns abruptly to the W. Numerous cuttings.
Beyond a tunnel, 240 yds. long, a most picturesque and impos-
ing *ViKW of the Drammens-Fjord , the town of Drammen, and
the fertile valley of Lier is suddenly disclosed to the left; but this
view is considerably interfered with by trees and cuttings. — The
road from Kaken to Drammen descends at once to the fjord, while
the railway passes through another tunnel and describes a long
curve towards the N., descending gradually to the valley of Licr
and the (46 Kil.) station of that name.
From Lier a beautiful route (known as 'Svangstrands-Veien'), with
'fast' skyds-stations, leads on the E. side of the valley, past the Paradit-
liakker (view) and the Engerfjeld^ to the HoUfjord (p. 22). The road joins
the Sandvikcn and Hgnefos road at the 'Skaret' (p. 22).
From Lier the train runs tow.ards theS., through a fertile tract,
to (51 Kil.) Bragereen, the E. end of Drammen (BragernsEs), and
24 Route 3. — Maf. p. 2i'. DKAMMEN. From Christianin
crosses the Drammens-Elv and the island of Mellerholm or Hol-
men, "with its timber-yards, to the Tangen and Stremse quarters,
on the S. hank of the river.
53 Kil. Drammen. — The Station {Restaurant, cold dishes only ;
luncheon -baskets provided) is close by the bridge. Drammen is- the
junction for Haug^und (change carriages ; p. 25) and for Laurvik and Skien
(pp. 35, 36).
Hotels. In Slremse: 'Central Hotel, opposite the station, entrance
in a side-street, vs'ith baths, R. 1V2-5, B. 1, D. (at 2 p.m.) 2, S. IV2 kr. ;
Britannia, near the station, in Frem-Gaden, leading to the E. to Tangen.
— In Bragernces: Kong Karl, Stor-Gaden, near the market-place.
Cab with one horse, for 1 person 40 0. per drive, for 2 persons 60 0.
British Vice-Consul, Mr. Anders Sveaas. — Lloyd's Agents, Messrs. iSee-
berg d- Xilxen.
Steamboats to Christiania thrice a v?eek.
Drammen, with 23,000 inhab., situated on both banks of the
Drammens-Elv, consists of Bragermes on the N. bank (rebuilt after
its almost total destruction by Are in 1866), Stremse on the S. side
(which suffered severely from fires in 1870 and 1880), and Tangen
to the S.E. The situation of Drammen on the estuary of the river,
between lofty hills, is very picturesque. The prosperity of the
place depends mainly on its export of timber, which amounts tc
nearly one-third of that of the entire country. About 4,000,000 logs
are annually floated down the Drammens-Elv. It also exports zinc
and nickel from Skouger and Ringerike, and wood-pulp from the
factories on the Drammens-Elv and the Baegna. The commercial
fleet of Drammen is one of the largest in Norway (over 200 sailing-
vessels and steamers). Sea-going vessels are berthed at the stone
quays of Bragernas.
Close to the railway-station a Timber Bridge crosses the Dram-
mens-Elv, connecting Stremsfi' and Bragernaes. The Brandposten
(see below), with its two flagstaifs, is conspicuous on the hill to
the right. The bridge leads to the Bragernas-Torv, in which , to
the right, are the Exchange (with the Post and Telegraph Offices
behind it; entrance in Nedre-Stor-Gaden), and facing us the
Raadhus and Byret (court-house), with the inscription Ret og
Sandhed ('justice and truth'). Ascending straight on, between
the two small towers of Kirke-Gaden, we reach the conspicuous
Bragern^s Church, a handsome Gothic brick edifice by Nordgren,
built in 1866-71. It contains a Resurrection by Tidemand, and
an Angel over the font by Borch. (The 'Kirketjeuer' lives in the
one-storied white wooden house opposite the sacristy, to the left.)
To the E. of Bragernaes Church we reach (12-15 min.) the
*Brandpo.sten , one of the finest points of view near Drammen,
affording an extensive survey of Tangen, Str^mse, and Bragerna's,
of the island of Holmen, the valley of the Drammens-Elv, and the
fjord. The veranda of the watchman's house is open to the public.
The road ascends hence to the (35-40 min.) Klopkjarn (755 ft.),
a sequestered lake in the midst of wood, which supplies the town
tf> the H'wdsfjoiul. VIKKSINI). :i. Route. 25
with good water. Kefreslimeuts at tlie small house. A path ascends
to the right iu 5 min. to Prinds Oscars Udsiyl , overlooking the
Lierdal and the fjord.
A promenade ('Oscarsstien') connects the Klopkjffirn with
several fine points of view on the slopes of the Bragekn^saas,
which may also be reached direct from Bragernjcs in 35-40 min.
by an easy but shadeless zigzag road ('Albumstien'), with benches
(restaurant). The views embrace the town and fjord, the valley
up to Haugsund, etc. The finest points, Toppen, Furulund, and
Breidablik, are marked on the plan. Tlic last affords the best view
up the valley, most striking at sunset.
About 5 31. to the S.W. (if Drauimcn ((imu. thrice daily, l'/4 kv.), nu
the Konertidsaase/i, lies the cumfortublc Koner-udkollen Hotel <i- Sanatvrium
(1300 ft. above the sea; baths, good cuisine). — .\nolher fine point of view
13 the Stor.tlensfjetd (1750 ft.), 8 M. to the N. of Drammen, also ascended
from Lier (p. 23).
The Kanusfjoru Railway (through-carriages by the express-
trains; best views to the right) ascends the broad valley of the
Drainmens-Elv. 56 Kil. Gulskog ; 64 Kil. Mjendalen.
70 Kil. Haugsund (Rail. Restaurant), junction for Kongsherg
(p. 27; change carriages). To the W. rises the Jonsknut (p. 28).
Near Haugsuud is the Hellefos, a fall of the Drammens-Elv, with
salmon-flshery.
The Randsfjord traiu turns to the N. and continues to ascend the
Urammens-P'lv. Beautiful scenery. Views on both sides. Several
fine waterfalls. 75 Kil. Burud. Beyond (80 Kil.) Skotselven, with
a wood-pulp mill, the train crosses the Drammens-Elv, which here
forms the Deviksfos. — 86 Kil. Aamot, on the left bank of the river.
A suspension-bridge leads to the opposite bank, on which stand the
Nykirke and a large saw-mill, driven by the waterfall of the Simoa,
descending from the Sigdal. Scenery at this point remarkably fine.
A little farther on is the influx of the Snarurns-Elv , descending
from Lake Kredereu and the Hallingdal. The traiu recrosses to
the right bank. 92 Kil. Gjeithus, near the Gravfos, with a large
paper-mill. Pretty w^alk hence to the Hivsdal with the St. Olafs-
gryder, large giants' cauldrons.
96 Kil. Vikesund, junction for Lake Krederen (p. 44), lies
at the efflux of the Drammens-Elv from the Tyrifjord. A long
bridge crosses the river to the church of Heggen.
To the W. of Vikesund (can-iages at the station, or at the neigh-
bouring posting -.'Station Kroiia) lies (4 Kil.) St. Olafs-Bad, a favourite
watering-place, with a chalybeate spring, mud-baths, inhaling-apparatus,
and other appliances (pension, including baths, medical advice, etc., from
6 kr. upwards). Beautiful walks through wood, with views, to the Kaggejus
and other falls of the Snarums-Elv. This district is the scene of many
traditions of St. Olaf. About 5 Kil. to the W. arc the Cobalt Mines of
Alodum, worked by a German company, ani the JIaugs/os.
We skirt the W. bank of the Tyrifjord, of which we have beau-
tiful views to the right. The wooded liills opposite are the Krog-
>^kog. with Krogklcra, (p. 22) and the Giirilinitij (p. 28). 105 Kil.
26 R'.vte :i. — Map, p. 2J. RANDSFJOHD.
Nakkerud. Ill Kil. Skjserdalen, with several saw-mills. Near it is
Ringerikes Nikkelvcerk. liSKil.^sfc. The train now quits the Tyrifjord.
124 Kil. H^nefos. — Hotels. 'Glatved's Hotel, on the Bsegna-Elv,
1/4 M. below the falls and 3/^ JI. from the rail, s'ation. with baths, electric
light, garden, and English-speaking host, R. l>/2-6, B. I1/4, D. 2'/?, S. I1/2 kr.;
Grand Hotel, nearer the station; .Teknbane Hotel, at the station. —
Skyds Station: to Sundvolden, carinle 31/4, carr. and pair for 2, 3, or 4 pers.
respectively 6, 8, 10 kr. ; to Sandviken via Sundvolden, cariole 10, carriage 18,
22V2, 25 kr. ; comp. p. 22. — Engl. Ch. Service at Glatved's Hotel.
Henefos (315 ft.), a small town with 1080 inhab., lies at the
confluence of the Bayna or Aadals-Elv, which descends from Lake
Spirillen, and the Rands-Elv, coming from the Randsfjord. These
rivers form the Stor-Elv, which falls into the Tyritjord, and after-
wards emerges from it under the name of Drammens-Elv.
The B:egna-Elv, the larger of the two rivers, forms a waterfall
and a cataract, close to the town , which are together known as
the Henefos. Though of no great height and largely spoiled by the
proximity of numerous saw-mills, flour-mills, and wood-pulp fac-
tories, these falls present an imposing appearance, especially in
May and June, during the melting of the snow. We reach them
by following the road downstream from the rail, station to (5 min.)
the market-place and proceeding thence to the left to a bridge cross-
ing the B;egna-Elv close to the falls. A channel on the left bank
of the N. fall, which conveys the timber to the mills, is worth seeing.
A road on the left bank of the Aadals-Elv leads in 1 hr. to the Ho/sfos,
another cascade, close to the railway to Heen (cariole I'/j) carr. for 2, 3,
or 4 pers. 4 kr. ; to Heen, 2, S'/j 6>//kr.).
The -RingkoUen (2265 ft.), 5 M. to the E. of Hgrnefos, is a beautiful
point of view. The excursion there and back fakes 5 hrs. (cariole 5 kr.;
carr. for 2, 3, or 4 pers. 8, 10, or 12 kr.). The road leads via Ojermundbro^
and ends at the GJ ermund-Sceier (tourists' hut belonging to Glatved's HoteP.
Thence to the top on fo t in V4 hr.
The train ascends the course of the Bsegna and crosses it.
131 Kil. Heen (Jernbane Hotel, Anderson's Hotel, both very fair),
with several wood-pulp mills. Travellers wishing to continue their
journey by the Lake Spirillen Steamer (p. 50) quit the train here.
Turning to the E., the train skirts the Hejaas (1490 ft.) and
the Askelihoug (1410 ft.), traversing a sequestered wooded district.
142 Kil. Randsfjord Station (Hotel Berger; Randsfjord Hotel)
lies on the left bank of the Rands-Elv, at its efflux from the S.
end of the Randsfjord. A bridge crosses the broad river to Hadelands
Glasvctrk. — The pier of the lake-steamers (to Odnaes 41/2*572 ^rs. ;
fares 4 kr., 2 kr. 80 h.) is close to the station.
The Randsfjord (440 ft.), 73 Kil. long, 1-4 kil. broad, and 355 ft.
deep, is bounded on the E. by the fertile and populous Hadeland,
and on the W. and N. by Valders and Land. The banks, rising
gradually to a height of 2000 ft., well cultivated at places, and
wooded at the top, are somewhat monotonous. The steamer stops
in all at ten stations. The most important of these is Reikenvik
(13/4 hr. from Randsfjord; p. 52).
27
4. From ( Christiania) Haugsund to the Har danger
Fjord via Kongsberg and the Rjukanfos.
From Haugsund to the Rjukanfos. — To Kongsberg, 2S Kil., Railway
in V/ihT. (fares 1 kr. 45, 80 0.). — Fnim Kdngsberg to Tinoset, Carkiace
in 9-10 hrs., either \ia, SoUesj0 (66 Kil.) or \ia, Hitterdal (69 Kil.). Walkers
take 11-12 hrs. by the Bolkes,i«r route. —From Tinoset to Fagerstrand, 30 Kil.,
Steamboat (good restaurant on board) in aummer twice daily in 2^4 hrs.
(fare 2 kr.). — From Fagerstrand to Fosso, on the lijukanfos, 26 Kil., a
drive of 4-4'/2 hrs. (cariole 4 kr. 40, stolkjwrre 6 kr. 60 0.; carr. and pair
for 2 pers. 10 kr. 60 0., for 3 pers. 13 kr. , for 4 pers. 14 kr. 50 0.\ there
and back a half more).
Feom the Ejdkanfos to the Hakdanger Fjord. The best roule is
that indicated at p. 31 via UUfos, on the great Telemarken route (p. 36).
The route via Levheim-Kirkehe or Heggestel (pp. 31-33) is less advisable. —
The Distribution of Time, reckoned from Kongsberg, would be somewhat
as follows. 1st Day: Via Bolkesj0 to Tinoset. [Those who reach Kongsberg
by railway about midday may drive or walk to Bolkesje in the evening
and spend the second night at the RjukanfdS.l 2nd Day: To the Bjukanfos,
and back \o Fagerstrand. 3rd Day ; Via Tinoset to Hitterdal-Nolodden. 4th Day.
To Ulefos and on to Dalen (p. 39). Those who choose the route via L0v-
heim find the best accommodation for the third night at Skovheim (p. 32).
From Cliristiaiiia to Haugsund, see pp. 22-25. The Kongsberg
train (finest views to the left) first stops at —
5 Kil. Vestfossen, with several factories, near the beautiful
Ekernvand or Fiskumvu7id (60 ft.), bounded by lofty mountains on
the E. side. At the S. end of this lake lie the railway-carriage
works of Eidsfos-Jernvc-erk. — 11 Kil. Darbo. — 15Kil. Krekling,
where the slate-formation predominates. Farther on we obtain a
fine view of the mountains towards the S. At (22 Kil.) SkoUenborg
(540 ft.) sandstone appears and the country becomes sterile. The
Labrofos (p. 28) is ^'^M. to the S.W. To the left rises the Skrims-
fjeld (p. 28). The train approaches the Laagen, which forms a
waterfall.
28 Kil. Kongsberg. — Hotels, "(jrano Hotel, on the left bank,
near the station, with Knglishspeaking landlord, R. 2-5, B. iV4-2V2, D.
(1.30 p.m) 2-2'/:, S. li/ikr. ; 'Victoria, in the W. part of the town, on
the right bank, also with an English-speaking host, R. 2-21/2, B. IV2, D. 21/4,
S. IV2 kr. Both hotels have baths and electric lii;ht, and are often
crowded in summer.
Carriages. To Tinoset via Bolkesj0 or Hitterdal: cariole for 1 pers.
14'/2, there and back 25'/2 kr. ; carriage-and-pair for 2 pers. 19'/2, 34 kr. ;
larger carr. for 2 pers. 29, 51 kr., for 8 pers. 35V4, 62 kr., for 4 pers.
39 kr. To Bolkesje or Hitlerdal: cariole 6 kr. 12, stnlkjferre 9 kr. 36,
carriage-and-pair for 2 pers. 14 kr. 40, for 3 pers. 16 kr. 20, for 4 pers.
18 kr. 75 0. Those who keep the carriage in Tinoset for more than 24 hrs.,
pay 4 kr. extra for each horse per day. — From Kongsberg via Tinn.set
(with halt of (ine day to visit the Rjukanfos, p. 31) to Kirkibei (p. 3?);
cariole 30, stolkjarre 45, carr. for 2, 3, or 4 pers. 76, 90, 100 kr.
Kongsberg (490 ft.), founded by Christian IV. in 1624, lies on
the Laagen or Lnugen, in the S. part of the Numedal (p. 42),
and contains r)5(S0 inhab. (only half its former poi)ulation), who
are almost all dependent on the mines. Most of the houses are
2H Route 4. BOLKES.IO. J''roni Hauysund
fiinber-built, but tlie large Church of the 18th cent, and the Raad-
hus are of stone. The town owes its origin to the Silver Mines in
the vicinity. In the town are situated the Smeltehytte, or smelting-
works, where specimens of the ore may be purchased, the Mi/n< (mint),
and a government Vaabenfabrik (weapon-factory), the last near the
Hammerfos. The rapid Laagen is crossed by two bridges. A monu-
ment to Christian IV. was erected near the church in 1883. The
Udsigt (I/4 hr.) commands a good view of the town and to the
S. over tlie valley of the Laagen.
The Silver Mines of Kongsberg, about 4 M. to the W. of the town,
were discovered in 1623. They are the property of government, but with
the present low price of silver they are little exploited and do not repay
a visit.
The Jonsknut (2950 ft.), which rises about 2^/2 M. to the W. of the mines,
commands an extensive view of Telemarken. It is ascended from Kongs-
berg in 4 hrs. (there and back 6 hra.). We may follow the mining road
via Saugrenden to 'Kongens Dam', ^/t hr. below the summit. A path
indicated by red and white marks leads from the Jonsknut, by the Li-
Sceler, the Nor-Sceier, and the SelsU-Smter, to (7 hrs.) Bolkesi0 (see below), —
About 10 M. to the S. of Kongsberg rises the Skrim.ifjeld (2946 ft.), another
l)oint of view.
About 3 M. below the town the Laagen forms the Labrofos, a' fine
waterfall, 140 ft. in height, which deserves a visit. Adjacent is a wood-
pulp mill. — Another fall of the same river is the Hvitingfos, 12 M. farther
distant, on the Laurvik road.
From Kongsberg to Tinoset there are two roads, the shorter
and more picturesque viaBolkesja (lately improved), and the high-
road via Hitterdal.
a. Via BoLKESje. We follow the road ascending the Numedal
on the right bank of the Laagen for 5 Kil. (p. 42) , turn to the
left into the Jondal, and ascend through the pines on the right
bank of the Jondals-Elv. Farther on we cross to the left bank.
1/4 hr. Hut (rfmts.). After a drive of about 4 hrs. or a walk of
5-6 hrs. we reach the culminating point of the route (1825 ft.),
where we obtain a magnificent view of the mountains of Telemar-
ken, the most conspicuous being the Lifjeld (p. 32) and the Gausta
(p. 32), appearing from this point like a blunted cone. Near Bol-
kesjo the landscape becomes more smiling, the foreground being
formed by the Bolkesjer and the larger Folsja (see below).
25 Kil. (pay for 36) Bolkesj«r (1285 ft. ; Hotel and Sanatorium,
well spoken of, R. 2, B. 11/4, D. 21/4, S. li/akr.; Grand Hotel)
lies above the small lake of the same name (1030 ft.) and com-
mands a view of the Folsje. [Walkers may descend to the Folsje,
row across it to Vik (boat ordered the night before; fare from
80 0. to 1 kr. 80 0. for 1-4 pers. ; in all II/2 lir.), and walk thence
to (37'2 lirs.) Tinoset.]
Beyond Bolkesje the road leads through wood, high up on the
N.W. bank of the Folsje (740 ft.), commanding views of the
Bleifjeld (4490 ft.) to the right. At the W. end of the lake lie
(lie houses of IVfc, \h'i hr. s drive from Bolkesje. Fine retrospect.
HiininufnJi. ^risthr^ .,-
Spring ^. ^ »■ *»-'
©Trunks?, V '.^ ? ' \ J:
i4>
7'hvrit,
%^!r^\
-'"^
to the Hardanger Fjord. NOTODDEN. 4. Route. 29
The road descends to the Tin-EU\ and crosses it by a new bridge
at Kirkevolden , near the chnrch of Gransherred, About 5 min.
later (IV4 ^^.'s drive from Vik) we reach the highroad described
at p. 30, on which a drive of 35 min. to the N. brings us to Tinoset.
b. Via HiTTERDAii. The road at first runs towards the S., but
after 4 Kil. turns to the W. into the valley of the Kobberbergs-Elv .
To the right rises the Jonsknut (p. 28). The road gradually ascends
the wooded Medkeia and after 2-2Y2 '^^s. reaches Jertigruben
(1350 ft.; tolerable inn), where the horses are usually rested for
1/2 tr. The road continues to ascend for some distance , and then
traverses the plateau (1470 ft.) in numerous undulations. On
emerging from the forest it descends into the Hitterdal, com-
manding a beautiful view : in front the mountains of Telemarken,
the Himingen (3450 ft. ; p. 30) and the Haksfjeld, to the left the
Hitterdals-Vand. A tablet calls attention to the view of the Gausta.
Our road unites with that coming from Skien and skirting the E.
bank of the Jlitterdals-Vand (p. 32).
28 Kil. (pay for 36) Notodden {^Hotel Furuheim, Victoria, two
very fair houses, near the pier of the Hitterdal steamer, p. 31,
R. I'/a-'^, B. 1, D. 21/2, S. 11/4 kr.), near the N. end of the Hitter-
dals-Vand. The drive from Kongsberg to Notodden takes 41/2 hrs. .
in the reverse direction at least 51/2 lirs. The horses are rested
here for 2 hrs. Carriage to Hitterdal and back 3 kr.
The road now crosses the Tin-Elv. About 5 min. above the
bridge the river forms the *Tinfos, the huge volume of water
dividing into three cascades about 06 ft. high. It supplies several
factories with motive power. The road, now almost level, ascends
the valley, passing Lysthus. About 6 Kil. from Notodden, on the
right, rises —
*Hitterdals Kirke, a grotesque -looking church, the largest of
the twenty-four mediaeval Norwegian 'Stavekirker', or timber-built
churches, which are still preserved. The architecture and ornament-
ation of these singular churches date as far back as the 12th cent.,
the plan corresponding, so far as the difference of material allows,
to that of Anglo-Norman churches of the same period (comp. p. 16).
To the rectangular body of the church is added a square choir
terminating in a semicircle. The broad and lofty nave is separated
from the low aisles by means of wooden columns. Over the gable
end of the nave rises a square tower, which also has a gabled roof
and terminates in a slender spire. The dragon-head ornamenta-
tion of these gables resembles that of the prow of a ship. The roof
of the choir is lower and is surmounted by a round turret. Round
the whole of the outside of the building runs a low arcade (Lop),
probably added as a shelter for the congregation in bad weather
before or after the service; the lower part is closed, while the
upper part is open and borne by small columns. The capitals of the
30 ff . 4. _ Map, p. 28. FAGERSTRAND. From Haugsund
columns, the doors and door-frames , and other suitable parts of
the edifice are emhellished with elaborate and fantastic carvings,
representing entwined dragons, intermixed with foliage and figures.
The first documentary evidence of the existence of the church of
Hitterdal dates from 1315, but there is no doubt that it was built
at least as early as the middle of the 13th century. The interior
was adapted to modern requirements in 1850 and has lost part of
its primitive character by the insertion of windows. The nave
contains twelve columns and the choir four. The key ('Neglen') is
obtained at the parsonage, opposite the entrance to the church.
The road continues tolerably level. The gaards of Bamle and
Kaasa are passed. To the left we long have a view of the Ui-
mingen (3450 ft.), an isolated pyramidal mountain, sometimes
ascended for the sake of the view (from Hitterdal over the Himingen
to Levheim, 7-8 hrs., with guide). Beyond the Himingen, also to
the left, is the Hsksfjeld (p. 29). To the right rises the Kjeiving-
fjeld (2265 ft.}, which our road skirts towards the N., while the
road to Levheim (p. 32) diverges to the left.
We ascend the course of the 0rvceUa, a stream which has forced
its way through huge masses of debris, now overgrown with pines
and firs, and cross it several times. At the 'Plads' Bakken, about
22 Kil. from Notodden, the horses are rested. The road from Grans-
herred and Bolkesje (p. 29) joins ours on the right, 5 Kil. farther
on. After 5 Kil. more wo reach —
32 Kil. Tinoset {^Hot. Tinoset, R. 2, B. IV4-IV2, D- 2-21/2, S.
II/4-I1/0 kr.), agroupof houses at the S. end of theTinsj* (605 ft.),
a lake about 22 Engl. M. long and 1-1^/2 ^l^- i" width. A small
screw-steamboat plies on the lake.
The Tinsjer resembles the Spirillen, but its banks are lower. The
steamer calls at Sanden (on the left) and Hovin (on the right), and
at several other stations. The finest point in the landscape is the
Haakenasfjeld, which the steamer skirts. Beyond it, 2^/4 hrs. from
Tinoset, we reach —
Fagerstrand (^Fager strand's Hotel, at the pier, R. 1 V2-2, B- 1 V4)
D. 2, S. 11/2 l^r. ; clean), near the church of Mai, at the mouth of the
Maan-Elv.
The good road (carriages, p. 27) ascends the beautiful Fesi/)'ord-
Dal, on the left laank of the Maan-Elv. To the right opens the
Haakedal. The imposing Gausta soon becomes visible on the left.
In 1 hr. we reach (9 Kil.) Nyland (small inn), whence the Gausta
(p. 32) may be ascended in 3 hrs., with guide. Beyond (3 Kil.)
the straggling village oi Dale (no inn) the road ascends, at first
gently and then more abruptly, to Vaae (1730 ft.) , 22 Kil. from
Fagerstrand. Grand view of the Gausta, as we look back.
The road continues to ascend circuitously , and in 1-1 '/4 ^^'
after leaving Vaae we reach (4 Kil.) —
Fosso (Rjiiknn Turht-Hotel), which commands a fine view of
to the Hardanger Fjord. RJUKANF0S. 4. Route. 31
the uaagniflcent *Rjukanfo3 ('reeking' or 'foaming taU'j. The
waterfall, formed by the copious Maan-Elv, makes an almost
perpendicular descent of 416 ft. into the ravine, in two stages, the
Kvernhusfos (65 ft.) and the main fall (350 ft.). The scene is
stupendous in the early summer, when the river is swollen with
melted snow. A path descends into the valley, affording a view
of the fall from helow. There is a bridge above the fall.
From the Maan-Elv bridge to the Ttiddnl Sanatorium (p. 32), ca. 8 hrs.
(guide).
From the Rjckanfos to the Haudanger Fjord : two routes, one to
Odde, another to Eidfjord; the former is preferable, but both are fatigu-
ing and should not be attempted before July. Guides are necessary on
parts (if both routes (bargain advisable). Provisions should be brought.
To OpDE, 4-5 days: — 1st Day. From Fosso by the above-mentioned
footpath, then (without crossing the bridge) up the left bank ofthe Jlaan-
Elv, often through snow in the early summer, to (4 hrs) Holvik (poor
inn), on the Mjesvand (2960 ft.), a lake 22 M. long, l-2>/j M. broad, and
148 ft. deep. To the W. rises the huge Raulandsfjeld (5175 ft.). From
Holvik we row either direct across the E. tip of the Mj0svand ('/a-i/'^ hr. ;
.500.) or towards the E. to \.\ie.(i-\}liiiT.) Erlandsgaard. From each land-
ing-place rough and sometimes marshy paths (marked, but guide desirable)
lead to (3-4 hrs.) the gaard of Qxbi}en.,on theS E. arm of the second Mjasvand.
Hence we row across the lake (^ji-^^i hr. ; 50 0.) and walk (guide necessary)
to (4-5 hrs.) Berge, on the Totakvand (2245 ft. ; accommodation at the Mid-
gaard, ^/t M. farther to the W.), a lake 15 sq. M. in area and 820 ft. in
depth. — 2nd Day. Row (each pers. 1'/-.' kr.) from Berge in 1 hr. to Kosthveil
on the S. bank; ride or drive thence in 2^2 hrs. to (14 Kil.) Jamsgaard i
Vinje. and thence to (4 Kil.) Heggesteil, on the Haukeli road (see p. 33).
(Walkers will find the following route more interesting, though also more
trying: from Berge-Midgaard to iiruHgiid (no habitation.s) in 2 hrs. by boat
(each pcrs. I'/z kr.) ; thence a steep ascent on foot through the Gvungedals-
bygd, part of the way marshy, 2-2'/2 hrs. (interesting view of the Grungedal
from the top); next an abrupt descent of Vi-V-i ^''- *o the road mentioned
at p. 40, which we reach near the bridge over the Grungedals-Elv; and,
lastly, along this road towards the W. to ('/s hr.) Rui (p. 40).] From
Uui to (jdde, two days.
To THE V((KiNGSFOS AND Eidfjord, 3-4 days: — 1st Day. From li'osso
to Holvik (see above) in 4 hrs. ; row thence in 3'/'2 hrs. to Afjesstrand, and
in 3'/2-4 hrs. more to the N. end of the lake; walk in '/•-' hr. to Mogen
(poor quarters). — 2nd Day (with guide to Eidfjord, 16 kr.). The path
ascends to the N.W. to the (6 Kil.) Ojuvsje, abounding in fish, passes
several small tarns on the left, and crosses (9 Kil.) the Gjuvaa or Skvcel/a.
It next passes three mountain-lakes, where the soil is boggy and the
scenery desolate. The Fjeldfje remains to the left, the Lakensja and the
large Nordmandilaagen (4156 ft.) to the right. On the last-named is the
refuge-hut Sandhoug, belonging to Sylvfest H. Kvammen , a good guide.
Lastly we cross the Bessa-Elv, a considerable stream which falls into the
Nonnandslaagen , and soon reach (after a laborious walk of 12-13 hrs. in
all) the stone hut of Sessabu (very poor fiuartersl. — 3rd Day. Over the
wild and bleak Hardanger i'idda to (25 Kil.) Bwrrastelen in 5-6 hrs.,
whence a good path leads in 2 hrs. to the (9 Kil.) FosH Hotel, above the
Veringsfot (p. 112).
Travellers bound for the Hardangtsu Fjord (orSkien), who wish
to avoid the above-mentioned mountain-route, should drive back to
Hitterdal-Notodden (4-5 hrs. ; p. 'I'd) and take the steamer there
(twice daily on week-days, once on Sun.). This vessel crosses the
Hitterdalsvand (10 M. long), calls at Farodden or Farvolden at its
32 Route 4.— Map.p.DS. SKOVHEIM.
S. eml, ami tlien descends the Saiier-Eto, which expands at first
into the Braafjord. Beyond Aslakshorg or Aarnces the steamer enters
tlie Nordsj0 (p. 36) and soon reaches Vtefos (in all abont 2^/2 hrs. ;
fare 2 kr. 30 e. ; to Skien in i^/o hrs., fare 3 kr. 70 c). From Ule-
fos to Dalen, see pp. 37-39.
The following route is less advisable (carr. from Kongsberg to
Kirkeb0, see p. 27). At the point where the Tinsjc' road reaches
the Hitterdal road (p. 29), we follow the latter, not to the left to
Hitterdal, but up the valley, along the H/oprdais-Biy, to Landsvark
(inn) and the skyds-station of —
Lavheim (Levheim's Hotel), situated amid pretty scenery, 19 Kil.
from Tinoset, 22 Kil. from Notodden, and a little to the E. of
Saulands Kirke.
From Ii0viiKiM to Siljord (see below), about 24 Kil., a moiintain-patb
leads tn the S.W., ascending the valley of the Mjcclla. On the Slaakv-
vand, halfway, is the Hotel Lifjeld, the starting-point for the ascent of
the Lifjeld (.see below).
To the N.W., from L^vheim a rnad ascends the Orundincfsdal, pass-
ing Afoen and the Senlandsrand, to (23 Kil.) the Hotel Bjaar, whence it
leads via the BJaarvand, the church of Tuddal, and the Kovstiilvand to
the "Tuddal Sanatorium (32 Kil. from Levheim; R. 1-3, board 3V2-4 kr.),
.situated amid pine-wooda on the Kovsliilheia (ca. 3280 ft.). In the neigh-
bourhood are several walks affording fine views. — The "Gausta (6180 ft.),
the highest mountain in S. Korway, affording a view like that from the
Galdli0pig (p. 153), is ascended from the Sanatorium in 4-5 hrs. (not
difficult, but fatiguing). The 12 lieds in the tourist-hut at the top are often
all occupied. The descent may be made to the Rjukanfos (p. 31).
A little farther on is Mosehe (quarters at the Landhandler's).
The scenery becomes wilder and grander. We pass the Hjarsje
(490 ft.) on the left.
18 Kil. Skovlieim i Hjardal or Skoghe'im i Hjertdal {Flntland''s
Hotel, R. H/o, B. 1, D. 2, S. lV2kr., very fair) is the starting-
point for the ascent of the Vindeggen (4890 ft. ; 5-6 hrs., with
guide; there and back 8-10 hrs.), which towers to the N.
About 7 Kil. from Skovheim the Heggestel road diverges to the
S. from the road leading to the N. W. to (23 Kil.) Aamotsdal, crosses
the watershed of theHjaerdal, and descends in zigzags, commanding
beautiful views, to Flatdal, with its little church and sprinkling of
farms. It then skirts the E. bank of the Flatdalsvand, with the
Skorvefjeld (4380 ft.) rising in the background. Adjoining the lake
is the Spaadomsniit, the falling of which into the water, according
to tradition, will be the prelude to the end of the world. Farther
on we obtain a view of the Siljordsvand (385 ft.), a picturesque
lake, 8V2 M. in length, and the Lifjeld (5085 ft.), on which two
French aeronauts descended in 1870, having arrived in their balloon
from Paris in 15 hours. At the W. end of the lake lies the church
oi Siljord, where our road crosses the feeder of the lake and is
joined by a road from Ulefos (pp. 37, 38).
22 Kil. Kohbervolden, ne^ir OppeheeniLnd Utbeen, where quarters
may be obtained.
HEGGEST0L. Map, p.:',^.-- 4. li. 38
We pass, 14 kil. from Siljorcl, Brunkebergs-Kirke (1290 ft.),
splendidly situated on the watershed, where the road forks. The
left (S.) arm leads to (17 Kil. from Kobbervolden) Hvideseid-Kir-
kebe, a station of the Bandaksvand steamer (p. 38), which may be
used to complete the journey (1 kr. 30 ».). — The road leads to
the right (N.W.) through the Morgedal, passing two small lakes
(1390 ft.), to -
16 Kil. Hemmestveit i Brunkeberg. It then passes the church of
Heidalsmo (Landvaerk's Hotel) and skirts the Oflevand to —
19 Kil. Mogen (Mogen's Hotel), where a road diverges to the S.
to (11 Kil.) Laurdal on the Bandaksvand (p. 38). — We cross a
range of hills of considerable height. Near (15 Kil.) Aamodt the
road crosses the Toke-Elv, which descends from the Totakvand and
forms a fine fall (288 ft.) called the Hyllandsfos, 8/4 M. to the N, of
Aamodt. We pass Tveiten.
20 Kil. Mule, prettily situated above the E. end of the Vinje-
vand. The road now runs up and down along the N. bank of the
lake, passing several farms, among which is Jamsgaard , where a road
diverges to Kostveit on the Totakvand (p. 31). We then descend
abruptly to the church of Vinje, near the N, W. end of the Vinjevand.
Here a beautiful view is obtained of the Midtfjeld (4580 ft.) and
of the Orm-Eggen to the S.W.
12 Kil. Heggest'ffl (fair station). The road crosses the Vinje-
Elv by a lofty bridge and joins the new road mentioned at p. 40
(to Rui, 12 Kil. more).
5. From Christiania to the Har danger Fjord via Skien,
the Telemarken Canal, and the Haukelifjeld.
T<i Odde 486 Kil. From Christiania to Skien l)y railway, 204 Kil. (express
in 6Y2 hrs., lares 11 kr. 10, 7 kr. 50 0. ; ordinary train in 7-11 hra., fares 9 kr.
20, b kr. ii} 0.). — From Skien to Daleii, 105 Kil., by steamer, twice daily
from about the middle of June onwards, in 8'/a-tl hrs. (fares 8 kr., 4 kr. ;
to Ulefos 1 kr. 80 «»., I kr.; restaurant on board, B. I1/4, D. 2 kr.). — From
Dalen to Odde, 177 Kil., a drive of three days. Landau for 2 pers. 80,
3 pers. 90, 4 pers. ICO kr. (tariff fixed by the Drivers' Union). In the
height of the season the horses, as on the other most frequented routes, are
apt to be over-worked. Conip. p. xxi. — The Haukeli road (p. 41) is
sometimes not free from snow till July.
Since the completion of the Telemarken Canal the route via Skien
and Haukeli is, during the tourist season (comp. p. xiv), the most con-
venient and comfortable approach from Christiania to the Hardanger
Fjord. The distance can sometimes be covered in three days, the nights
being spent at Dalen and Haukeli- Sater. The following distribution of
time is, however, preferable. 1st Day. Railway via Laurvik to Skim (and
possibly on by steamer to Ulefos-Aaheim, p. 37). — 2nd Day. Steamer to
Dalen (by the express-steamer 'Inland' it is possible to reach Dalen late
in the evening of the first day). — 3rd Day. Skyds or carriage to the
Voxli Hotel (p. 41). — 4th Day. Breifond Hotel (p. 42). — 5th Day. Odde. —
An extra day is usually devoted to the interesting excursion from Dalen
to Ravni'jnvet (p. 39). Travellers may, however, go on the same afternoon
to Berte (p. 40), and spend the following nights at the Haukeli- Sifter (v. 41)
and at Seljestad or at the Hotel Ud.^igten on the Se'jeslndjnvet (p. 98). —
Bakuekkk's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 3
o-t Route 6. .SANDEFJOIJD. From ilirisliiuia
Travellers in the reverse direction, leaving Odde in the afternDOn for(4hrs.)
Seljestad, may reach Tox^i (12 hrs.; p. 41) un the second, and Z)afe« (p.39;
10 hr8 J on the third day. This, however, is somewhat fatiguing.
From Christiania to (53 Kil.) Drammen, see R. 3. Through-car-
riages. — The railway ['Jarlsbergbane') from Drammen to Laurvik
and Skien turns to the S.W. (fine retrospect), past the suburb of
Tangen, and slowly ascends (1 : 80) the Kobberviksdal, the highest
point of which (260 ft.) is reached at (63 Kil.) Skouger. 69 Kil.
Galleherg. 73 Kil. Sande, v?ith the church of that name, near the
Sandebugt, of which we get a fine view to the left. The train now
skirts the picturesque fjord.
86 Kil. Holmestrand (Rail. Restaurant; Hot. Societelen, near
the station, R. 2-272, B. 1, D. IVsA S. li/otr.), a sea-bathing
place with 2500 inhab., is prettily situated at the foot of a steep
porphyry cliff, ascended by a zigzag path (view of the fjord). — A
branch-line runs hence to the W. via HiUestad to (30 Kil.) Viltingfos.
96 Kil. Nykirke. — 100 Kil. Skoppmn, near the Borrevand;
branch-line hence to Borre and ( 7 Kil.) Horten, on the Christiania
Fjord (p. 8). — 103 Kil. Augedat; 109 Kil. Barkaker. To the right
we see the chateau of Jarlsberg. The train passes Tensberg on the
left, and runs back for 2 Kil., passing through a short tunnel, to —
115 Kil.Tensherg (Victoria Hotel, R. 2, D. 2, S. lV2kr., good
cuisine; Grand Hotel, both near the station), with 8600 inhab.,
famous as seafarers, the oldest town in Norway, dating from the
time of Harald Haarfager. About fifty whalers and seal-hunting
vessels (one-third steamers) annually start from this port. Most
of the sailors live on the Netere and the Tjeme, to the S. of T«ns-
berg. By following Anders-Madsens-Gaden between the Grand
Hotel and the church ('Vagtmester ved Slotstaarnet' in a house on
the left) and then (I/4 hr.) ascending to the left, we reach the Castle
Hill above the town, under which the railway tunnel passes. The
Slotstaarn at the top affords a wide view and contains a collection of
antiquities and whaling implements. — A branch-line runs hence to
the N., via HiUestad (see above), to (48 Kil.) Eidsfos, on Lake Ekern.
At (121 Kil.) Sem or Semb the train crosses the Oulie-Elv.
128 Kil. Stokke; 135 Kil. Raastad. To the right lies Gogstad
(see p. 13).
139 Kil. Sandefjord (Grand Hotel, very fair, R. 2, D. 2, S.
I'/o kr. ; Hotel Kong Karl; Heidemark^s Hotel), a favourite water-
ing-place with 4800 inhab., and sulphurous, saline, and chalybeate
springs, prettily situated on the fjord of the same name. The sea
swarms with medusa ('maneter'), which are said to be beneficial to
bathers. There are factories in the N. part of the town. — The
Jattegryder near the Guard Aasen are interesting ; the largest is
23 It. deep. Similar 'giant's cauldrons' at the (S^/2 M.) Vindalsbugt
may be visited by boat. The whole region between Tensberg and
Laurvik is historic ground. At Hjertnais are several 'bautastenar'.
•J'
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SYDL.TELEMARKEN
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SYDL TELEMARKEN
6
In the Hiir<liiu,ier Fjord. LAIUVIK. 5. Ilovte. 35
144 Kil. Joberg, in a wooded and nioiiotouous district; 149 Kil.
Tjelling, with a view of the Laurviksfjord as far as Fredriksvaern.
The train crosses the Laagen or Laugen (p. 27), by a bridge 183yds.
long, to the suburb of Thorstrand, passes through two tunnels, and
reaches —
158 Kil. Laurvik. — Hotels. Grand Hotel, K. 21/2-4V.:, B. 1, D. (at
2 p.m.) 2. S. li/i ^T.; Thora Hansen's Hotel, R. 134-3, B. li/i, D. (»(
1.30 p.m.) 2, S. l'/2 ki".. both near the railway-statiim and the pier. —
Laurviks Bad, with mineral and sulphur springs and mud-baths; hoard
18 kr. weekly, 64 kr. monthly, K. 20-50 kr. per month. 'Kurpenge', or visi-
tors' tax , for baths, physician, etc., 22 kr. per week for the first fort-
night, 20 kr. per week for the second fortnight, and afterwards 15 kr.
per week. — Sea Batus, to the W. of the harbour. — British Vice-Constil-
Mr. Fred. Dahm. — LloyiVs Agents, Messrs. JI. Oppen & Co.
Laurvik, Larvik, or Larvig, formerly the capital of the county
of that name, with 10,600 inhab. and the suburbs of Langestrand
to the "W. and Ihorstrand to the E. [with large bottle-works), is
beautifully situated on the Laurviksfjord, near the mouth of the
Laagen, Part of the town was burned down in 1902.
The station lies on the harbour, which the railway skirts. Pleas-
ant walk on the long quays. The streets running inland ascend to
the *B0geskov, a fine beech-plantation above the highest houses on
the N. side of the town. Near the entrance are a cafe and a music
pavilion, where a band often plays in the afternoon. Among the
finest of the walks in the wood is that leading from the pavilion to
the right (^N.E.) to a point commanding a line view of the Farisvand
to the left. Another walk may be taken from the station to the E.
to Laurviks Kirke, and to Herregaurdsbakken (in all li/2"2hrs.). —
The large building to the S., conspicuous in approaching Laurvik
by sea, is the old manor-house of Fritsehus.
The train (_best views to the right) crosses the Faris-ELv (which
drives the Fritse Jernvark and several other factories), ascends
to the Farisvand, and skirts its W. bank, passing through a series of
short tunnels. The scenery is a pleasant mingling of field and wood.
— 169 Kil. TJose; 182 Kil. Aaklungen, on the small lake of that name
(135 ft.). Then past several lakes. 188 Kil. Birkedalen (235 ft.).
192 Kil. Eidanger, '/^ ^r. from the station, pleasantly situated
a mill woods on the Eidanger Fjord.
From Eidancek to Brevik, 9 Kil., railway in 21 min. (fares 40. 300.). —
The first part of the line traverses fine woods. 2 Kil Nystvand (Kidanger
Hotel), on the Eidanger Fjord, the W. bank of which is skirled by the
railway. — 4 Kil. Skjelsvik; 6 Kil. Htistad. — 9 Kil. Brevik (Hot. Yikin<j,
on the fjord, '/•• ^^- from the rail. stat. and the pier; Siiansen) , with
2000 inhab., is charmingly situated at the S.K. end of a rocky peninsula
which separates the Eidanger Fjord from the Friers/Jord. Opposite, to
the S., is the little town of Stalhelle. — From Brevik steamers ply to
Cbristiania and Christiansand.
195 Kil. Porsgrund (Stiansen's Hotel; Victoria, an old manor
house, ','4 M. from the rail, stat., simply fitted up, R. 2 kr.; Brit,
vice-consul, Mr. James Franklin), a town of 4900 inhab., lies on
both banks of the Skiens-Elv, which descends from the Nordsje and
3*
36 H. 5. — Map, j>. 3i. SKIEN. , From Christiania
enters a bay of the Friersfjord II/2 M. below the town, bringing
yearly I1/2 million logs to the sea. Porsgrund is famous for its
porcelain. — We now ascend the left bank of the broad Skiens-
Elv, througJi a smiling district with numerous farms. A tunnel is
traversed near —
204 Kil. Skieu. — Hotels. Hayek's Hotel, with electric light and
hatha, li. from S'A, B. 1"/:, D. (2-5 p.m.) 2i/4, S. lV'il<r. ; Rotal Hotel,
both near the rail, station and the pier of the sea-going steamers; Grand
Hotel, at the W. end of Telemarks-Gaden, with view of the wharf of
the Telemarken steamers, with baths and electric light, well spoken of,
R. 2-4, B. 11/2, D- (2.30 p.m.) 21/4, S. IV2 kr. — Cafi-Restaurant in the
Fesiivitets-Lokal; also good warm baths {^/i-i kr. ; tickets opposite, at the
confectioner's).
Post Office, in the Raadhus, Torv-Gaden, near the harbour. — Lloyd's
Agents, Mdssrs. M. Oppen <C- Co., at Laurvik (p. 35).
Steamers. To Telemarken twice daily (once on Sun.), both to Ule/os
iiiid Dalen and to Ulefos and Hitterdal (p. 31); pier nearly 3/4 M. from the
rail. Stat, (cabs in waiting). — Sea-going steamers ply daily to Pm-sgrund,
Lanyesund, and Christiania.
Skien (pron. Sheen), the ancient Skida, a commercial and indus-
trial town with 11,300 inhab., dates from the 14th cent., but has
been repeatedly burned down (last in 1886) and rebuilt in a more
substantial style. Skien is the birthplace of the dramatist Henrik
Ibsen (b. 1828). The town lies on the N. bank of the Skiens-ELv,
which here breaks through a rocky barrier in two falls and forms a
roomy harbour. In the Jernbane-Torv, at the harbour, are the liail-
uHiy Station and tlie handsome iJaadftus, with its arcaded vestibule.
The broad Prindsens-Gade ascends hence to the new Church.^ a Gothic
brick building by J. H. Bergh, with two lofty spires. The square in
front of the church is adorned with a fountain and is adjoined by
.Skiejis Festivitets-Lokal, with a public library, baths, and a cafe-re-
staurant. — The street named 'Broerne' (bridges) ascends from near
the wharf of the Telemarken steamers to the Damfos and ih&Kloster-
fos, the two waterfalls mentioned above. On a small island between
them formerly stood the nunnery of Gimse, founded in 1110. — On
the steep Bratshergklev, to the S.E. of the town, are the ruins of the
Bratsberg Chapel, which has given its name to the entire district
(line view by morning-light). It is reached from the rail, station in
20 min. by the Ny Skotlandsvei and a flight of wooden steps.
The Telemarken Steamer (fair restaurant on board), which
starts above the Damfos, ascends the Skiens-Elv , passes several
factories, and reaches ('/.> hr.) the three *Locks of Leveid, con-
structed in 1861 to meet the different levels of the Nordsja and the
Skiens-Elv. They are hewn, like those of Trollhattan, out of the
rock. The passage of the locks takes 20 minutes. The fourth lock is
used when the water is exceptionally high. A bust commemorates
Amtmann Aall, the chief promoter of the canal.
The steamer next passes several small islands and soon enters
the Nordsj«r (207 ft. above sea-level), the chief lake of Telemarken,
to the Hardanger Fjord. ULEFOS. Map, p, 34. — 5. R. 37
'28 Kil. (_17V2 J^^O i" length and 575 ft. deep ; it receives the over-
flow of several other lakes. The banks are surrounded by low
wooded hills. High up to the right, near the entrance, is the St.
Mikaelshul, or St. Michael's cave, where Roman Catholic services
were formerly held. Farther on we have a view to the right of the
cburch-tower of Romnses and of the N. part of the lake (^traversed
by the Hitterdal steamer; p. 31). In about 2 hrs. after leaving Skien
we reach —
Ulefos I Holden (1500 inhab.), situated on both banks of the
Eids-Elv, which descends from the great Telemarken lakes and
here enters the Nordsja. Its water affords the motive power of
several wood-pulp and other factories. One of the finest of the
pretty private residences is the castellated villa of the Aall family,
with its garden (right). To the left is the church of Holden. Car-
riages meet the steamer to convey passengers to (^^4 ^^0 Aaheim's
Hotel (see below). — Steamer to Hitterdal, see p. 3'2.
Ulefos is the starting-point of the *Bandak-Nordsj0 Canal,
constructed in 1889-92 at a cost of 3,000,000 kr. to overcome the
difference of level (190 ft.) between the two lakes. It follows the
channel of the Eids-Elv and is 17 Kil. long. The work offered special
difficulties, as some of the 17 locks could not be hewn out of the
rock but had to be formed with the aid of enormous dams of ma-
sonry. The steamboat takes 23/4-3 hrs. to ascend from Ulefos to
Uogga, the last lock (in the reverse direction 21/2 hrs.).
The Ulefos, the lowest fall of the Eids-Elv, is 3()ft. liigh. The
steamer ascends this height by three locks. At the top is an arched
wooden bridge. The first station (iiot touched at by the express-
steamer) is Aaheim (Aahehns Hotel, very fair, with pretty grounds),
"beyond which we reach the Eidsfos (32 ft. high; seen to the left),
overcome by two locks. It takes six locks to counteract the impetuous
rapids of the *Vrangfos, a little farther on. At the top of this series
of locks is a gigantic dam of red granite, 106 ft. higli and 70 ft. wide
at its lowest part, the overflow at wliich forms a fine fall of 75 ft.
(right). The banks are here connected by a small bridge.
The steamer takes nearly an hour (40 min. downwards) to ascend
from the lower Eidsfds luck to the uppermost Vranglos lock. The traveller
should therefore leave the steamer, cross the bridge just above the Eids-
fos, and follow the good path i.n the right bank, through wood, to (25 min.)
the uppermost Vrangfos lock. Near the end of this walk, to the right, is
a view-piiint, with a stone table, atTording a fine view of the whole gigan-
tic staircase of locks. Passengers in the other direction should also take
this walk.
The steamer now ascends the wide river, which has been much
deepened through the construction of the dams. The banks are
thickly wooded, with here and there a farm-house surrounded by
crops and pastures. At an expansion of the river we see the Nuke-
fjeld (1285 ft.; ascended from Ulefos in 3-4 hrs.), to the S., while
the Lifjeld (p. 32) rises to the N. On the left (N.) bank lies the
38 R.5. — Map,p.34. KIRKEB0. . From Christiania
churcli of Lunde, opposite wliich is Lundefaret, sometimes touched
at ty the steamer. We gain 10 ft. by the lock of Lunde or Qroot-
euje, 7 Kil. from Vrangfos, and 10 ft. more by the lock of Kjeldal,
3 Kil. farther on.
The last locks are at (2 Kil.) Hogga and raise the steamer 23 ft.
The level of the lakes above Hogga is maintained by an immense
dam, for the foundations of which It was found necessary to dig
down 25 ft. below the bottom of the river.
Between the Flaa-Kirke, on the N. bank, and the station of
Strcengen, on the S. bank, the steamer enters the E, end of the
Flaavand (235 ft.). The elk is still found in the forests on the
bnnks. At the W. end of the lake (15 Kil. from Straengen) the
steamer enters the narrow Fjaagesund and soon reaches theHvidesj«
(185 ft.). The mountains become higher and steeper: to the right
rises the Brnkefjeld (3540 ft.), to the left, in the distance, the bare
lloboltfjeld (3345 ft.), and to the W. the pointed Rauberg-Nuten.
At the upper end of the lake lies the wooded island of Buke.
To the right opens the small lake of *Sundkile (4 Kil. long),
surrounded by picturesque mountains and entered by a narrow
strait crossed by a drawbridge. The afternoon-steamer (express)
does not eiiter the Sundkile. The others pass the bridge and call
at Kirkeb«r {^Hotel Hvideseid, at the pier), pleasantly sittiated at
the upper end of the bay. A skyds-road runs hence to the N. to
(17 Kil.) Kobbervoldeu (p. 32j, passing Brunkebergs Kirke, about
3 Kil. distant. — The steamer returns to the Sundkile, rounds the
promontory oi Spjosodden, and stops at Smedodden, on tlie S. bank,
near the church of Hvideseid, at the W. end of the lake.
From Hvideseid to Arendal (145 Kil.). The road ascends rapidly ,
nnd then descends to (7 Kil.) Strand i Vraadal (tolerable), a little to the
W. of wliich lies the Vraavand (p. 39). Our route turns to the S.
and skirts the E. bank of the Nisstfvand (795 ft.), a fine sheet of water,
34 Kil. long (steamer), affording trout-fishing. The next stages are:
17 Kil. Vik i Nisserdal; 26 Kil. Homme i Treungen; then past the Hegfos,
formed by the Nisser-Elv; 19 Kil. .^i i Aamli; 16 Kil. Neergaarden i
Aamli (good quarters); 13 Kil. Simonslad (p. 7). Thence to Arendal,
.see p. 7.
Beyond Hvideseid the steamer passes through the artificial
channel of Skarpstremmen (6 Kil. long), connecting the Hvidesje
with the *Bandaksvand (205 ft.), a picturesque lake, 27 Kil. long,
enclosed by imposing mountains. The first view of the lake, beyond
the station of Apalsfe (right) and the high rocky island of Bandakse
(left), is very striking. Farther on, to the left, is the rock called
St. Olafs Ship. The scenery afterwards becomes a little monotonous,
but the W. end of the lake is enclosed by a fine group of moun-
tains belonging to the Ssetersdal.
About 1 hr. from Hvideseid the steamer touches at 2'riset, by
the church of Laurdal (Bakkes Hotel, at the pier), situated on
the N. bank of the lake, amidst rich vegetation. A good road leads
hence to Ofte i Tfpiidnlsmn (11 Kil.; p, 331. — ^ *^" the S. bank of
to the Hardanger Fjord. DALEN. Map$,pp.34,28. — 5.R. 39
the lake, opposite Laurdal, lies Bandakslid, also a steamboat
station, but not always called at.
From Bandakslid (.'slow' station) the hill is crossed by a zigzag road
to (5Kil.) Midtgaarden (fast station). The road then leads to the S., past
the W. end of the. Vraavand (850 ft.; steamer), and ascends the course of
the river which falls into it. This stream forms the picturesque "lAlle
Rjukanfot near the road and emerges from the Skredvand (1085 ft.), a little
higher up. We follow the E. bank of this lake to (8 Kil.) liindebakken
(slow station), beyond which we pass Veum and reach (15 Kil.) Afoland, on
the /V'*'""''^ C^5 Kil. in length). Between Veum and Moland the Bispevi-i
diverges to the W. to Viken in the Swtersdal (p. 5).
The lake contracts and the mountains become more imposing,
especially on the N. side. About 1 hr. after leaving Triset the
steamer reaches its terminus —
Dalen. — "Hotel Dalen, -ji M. from the quay, with garden, electric
light, baths, and a good view of the lake, R. from 2, B. I'/z, U- (2 p.m.) 2'/i,
S. (8 p.m.) l'/2 kr. (noisy at night on account of the arrival of the late
steamer). — Hotel Folkvamg, R. 1'/2-2, K. 1, D. (2 p.m.) l'/-, S. 1 kr.,
omn. free; Hotel Handak, very fair, similar charges; Tokedalen's, by
the pier. — English Church Service in July and August.
Dalen, at the W. end of the Bandaksvand, into which the Toke-
Elv falls here, is the starting-point of tlie new road over the Hau-
kelifjeld. There is an abundant supply of horses and carriages
(comp. p. 33), but landaus should be engaged beforehand.
Excursion TO Uavnejuvet, attractive (there and back on foot 0-7 hrs. ;
stolkjarre to Eid>borg 5 kr. ; provisions .'hould be taken, a^ none are
obtainable en routel. The narrow road, beginning about 1/4 ^^I- from the
quay, ascends to the N. in long zigzags, on a rocky slope 1300-1600 ft.
liinh. After about 1 hr. the road turns inland and becomes more level.
About 200 yds. beyond the farm of (20 min.) Reffelhrwk (post-office) we
avoid the road to the right and proceed to the left to the lake and (10 min )
old timber church of Eidshorg (2300 ft.). The door of the latter is adorned
with carving (defaced); the interior has been entirely modernized. We
leave the church to the left, skirt the lake (which lies considerably below),
and ascend by a poor bridle-path up the steep Eidsborgans. The path then
becomes level for some time and again ascends abruptly. The highest
point (I hr. from Eidsborg) aflords a line view of the dark-green moun-
tains to the N. Farther on we descend, amid rocks and wood, to (V2 hr.)
a small saw-mill. A path diverges here to the left to the Molands-Swler,
but we go straight on across the brook. A tablet about 10 min. farther
on, on a tree to the left, indicates the way to "Ravnejuvet, or Raviie-
djupet, a, perpendicular rock, lOyO ft. above the turbulent Toke-Elv, and
commanding a splendid view of the Libygfjeld and the district of Na>s-
land. There is a constant current of air here ascending from below, so
that pieces of paper thrown from the rock do not fall but are carried
back over our heads. To the left, in the valley, we see the great sweep
of the road described below. A pavilion commemorates the visit of King
Oscar II. in 1879. — Riders and walkers may continue their journey to
the N. from Ravnejuvet. The path at first loads through forest, and after-
wards descends rapidly and crosses the Tvke Elv. In i-V/i hr. we reach
tlie hamlet of Ma-shmd, where the gaard of Sandok affords good quarters.
Jt is also a skyds-stalion (to Mule in l'/j-2 hrs. ; 4 kr. ; p. 33).
Pass from Dalen to the Swtersdal, see p. 5.
The Road to tub Haruangeu Fjoud crosses the broad Toke-
Klv by an iron bridge, about 1 Kil. from Dalen, and soon enters
the forest. Fartlicr on, at the month of the Botnedal, the old road
to Mo (p. 40) diverges to the left. The new road crosses the
40 R.5. — Mnp,p.28. B0RTEVAND. From Christiania
stream and sweeps upward, Ligh above the brawling Toke-Elv.
Where it crosses the Rokke-Elv walkers may avoid a long bend by
ascending steeply on the left bank. The road continues to ascend
for at least 2 Kil. along the W. slope of the valley of the Toke-Elv,
affording a grand view of the valley and the precipitous heights to
the E. (^Ravnejuvet, see p. 39). It then describes a sharp curve,
still ascending, while a road to Ntesland fp. 39) diverges to the
right. The road is partly hewn in the living rock and traverses
fine coniferous woods, high up on the N. slope of the valley of the
Rokke-Elv. At an opening in the wood we have a peep of the
church of Mo to the left, on a small lake; on the slope below are
several farms.
15 Kil. Moen. — Farther on we cross the Rokke-Elv, joining
the old road on the right bank. After passing the parsonage of Mo
we reach the lower end of the Bertevand. The road passes Berteosen
and undulates along the W. bank of the lake, above which rises
the abrupt Rautefjeld (4725 ft.). The E. bank is entirely un-
cultivated, and rises in jagged rocky walls, sprinkled with trees.
The road crosses the Berte-Elv and, beyond the Hotel Berte (where
it is joined by the bridle-path from Bredvik in the Saetersdal, see
p. 6), turns inland and crosses the ridge of Bertegrenden, beyond
which we enjoy a fine view of the upper end of the Bertevand. We
ascend gradually over the Berteheia^ through beautiful fir-woods.
The view becomes more open a short way beyond the top. The road
descends in windings and joins the Hitterdal road at (8 Kil.) a
'Landhandleri' above the Vinjevand and Heggestel (p. 33), which,
however, are not visible from this point.
Tbe old road, which we now follow to the left, is pretty poor.
It crosses the Rus-Elv and ascends, though with numerous dips,
through the valley of the Smerklep-Elv and along the E. slope of
the SmerkUpfjeld. Several farms are passed. The Flaatebunut on
the Totakvand comes into sight to the N,, and remains in view
during the rest of the journey through the somewhat monotonou.s
valley. The road crosses the river, and is here joined on the right
by a footpath from Brunelid on the Totakvand (p. 31). It then turns
sharply to the W. and soon reaches —
31 Kil. Rui (tolerable inn), near the pretty Grungedalsvand
(1590 ft.).
The next part of the route, skirting the green but shallow lake,
and affording a good view of the Gurifjeld, is very picturesque.
The road, however, is very rough and uneven. A party would do
well to take one skyds for their baggage (p. xxii), and walk toBotten.
Beyond the yellowish -brown Church of Grungedal we reach the
farms of Edland or EUandt, the Hotel Haukeli, where the road
crosses the foaming Geislaus-Elv, and (fully 1 Kil. farther on) the
new Hotel Haukelid Grand.
Farther on we follow the left bank of the Flaathyl-Elv. To the
to the Hardangtr Fjord. HAUKELT. Maps, pp. 28, 10-2. — 5. R. 41
left (^S. j, at kilometre-stoiie 170 (from Skieii), we see the fine Vafos,
descending from the Ntdre Langeidvand in a series of bold leaps.
The route now ascends a monotonous valley, passing a few farms,
of which the two of Flaathyl are the most important. We cross the
stream twice. After having forced its way through a rocky harrier
in a series of falls and rapids, the Flaathyl-Elv forms several Hel,
or deep pools. The largest of the waterfalls (to the left, close to the
road) is the Lille Rjukan fos (^'little smoking fall'), the best point for
surveying which is the projecting rock near its foot. The largest Hcl
is the Ekelidhel (2290 ft.). Continuing to ascend, we at last reach —
27 Kil. Botten or B' An (2590 ft. ; good station ; shooting and
tishing), on the pretty Voxlivand (2500 ft.), which the road skirts.
About '/2 ^^- farther on, to the left, is the Voxli or Vaagsli Hotel
(fair ; R. 1 V2"2, B. or S. 1 kr.), commanding a line view of the lake.
The road passes several farms and the last sparse crops of barley
and potatoes. Farther on are the small Hotel Nystel, and then the
Arrebuvand and theEvenbuvand. This region is almost uninhabited,
a few old and dying pines alone relieving its monotony. Near kilo-
metre-stone 190 we reach the Krcekledyr Sknr, commanding a fine
*View of the mountains to the W.: to the left Vasdalseggen (5765ft.),
then Kistenuten, the Kallevashein, and Sveien. Below us, to the
left, lies the Kjalavand (2940 ft.), to the S. of which rises the
Kjalatlnd. Trees disappear.
18 Kil. Haukeli-Sseter (*Knud Hnukelisater s Inn., consisting of
several houses, the main one in the Norwegian style by H. Muntlie,
11. 1-2, 15._ 1-11/4, 1). 11/2-2, S. 11/0 kr.), at the E. end of the Staa-
vdx^d (3085 ft.l, situated amidst imposing scenery, and commanding
an unimpeded view of the fjeld. The peaks and even parts of the
plateau remain covered with snow as late as August. The Kistemit,
to the S. of the Staavand (there and back 3-4 hrs.), and the Lille
Nup, to the N. of the Haukeli-Saeter (6 hrs.), afford wide views.
The good road leads to the N.W., skirting the Staavand. After
about 10 mill, we get a glimpse of the Storefond to the right, and
1/4 hr. farther on is a ruined bridge on the left, over which the
old bridle-path led. About 21/2 M. from Haukeli we cross the
L'Uvaa-Elv, which descends from the N. and forms the boundary
between the districts of Bratsberg and Sendre Bergenhus; to the
right it forms several low but very broad cascades. After 1 M. more
we reach the Ulevaai-and (3095 ft. ; 2 M. long), to the left, the N.
bank of which our road skirts. We are now in the heart of a fjeld
solitude. To the right wc have a fine view of the precipitous Store.
Nup and tlie Storefond, and to the left Sveien; in front rises the
Stafsnut, to the right of which are the Rekkinysnut and the Midt-
dyr Ruste.
After a drive of 1-1 1/4 hr. (51/2 M.) from Haukeli-Saeter we cross
the Midtdyr-Elv, turn to the S,, and at the foot of the Dyrnut, the
E. part of the Stnf.mut, begin to ascend the pass of Dyreskard
42 R. 5. — Map, p. 102. RfiTLDAL.
(3715 ft.; watershed), the top of which we reach in 1/2 hr. more.
Such masses of snow lie here, even in midsummer, that a tunnel
has to be bored through them every year. To the left is a 'Varde',
erected by King Oscar II. in 1879.
The road now leads to the W. through a -wilderness of snow and
stones, sometimes descending slightly. To the right is Stafsnuten,
to the left Sveien and the narrow green iSfisteinnand. To the left,
below the road, about 972 M- from Haukeli-Saeter, lies the Midt-
Icpger-ScEter ; and on the road is the Nye MidlUrger-Sceter. About
10 mill, later the three houses of Svandals/Janene and several small
lakes appear below us to the left. On the road is a small inn
(D. 2 kr., tolerable). In 10 min. more we reach the hill of Staven,
and in 5 min. more begin to descend. To the right, below, lies the
Tarjehudal, with tlie saeters of Tarjebudal and NyaStel; to the W.,
in front of us, is the Horrehei. In 10 min. we cross by the Risbu-Bro
to the right bank of the Risbu-Aa, and then descend rapidly in
huge zigzags. Near (10 min.) tlie 0stmanlid-Sceter we have a fine
glimpse of the Kie'ldalsvand. The scei\ery improves. After 20 min.
we cross the noisy Vasdals-Elv and follow its right bank, high above
the stream. In front of us is the broad Novle-Fos, near which the
road passes 10 min. later. The river with its numerous rapids is
constantly in sight. The Reldalsvand again (5 min.) comes into
sight, backed by the Holmenut and Reldalsaalen (4125 ft.). A drive
of 12 min. more brings us to —
30 Kil. (pay for 35 Kil. in the reverse direction) 'RelA&l{* Hotel
Reldal, R. 1 V2-2, B. I1/4, D. 2, S. 1 1/2 kr. ; Gryting's Hotel (^ Skyds
Station, D. 1 kr. 70ie'. ; Fredheim's Hotel, plain; Engl. Ch. Serv. in
summer), near the N. end of the Reldalsvand. On the lake, a short
distance from the road, is the church, in which have been in-
corporated the remains of an old 'Stavekirke'. — Farther on we cross
the Tufte-Elv and skirt the lake. At the fork where the roads to the
Bratlandsdal (p. 97) and to Hardanger diverge from each other, we
follow the latter and ascend to (3 Kil.) the *Breifond Hotel (p. 97).
6. From Kongsberg to the Hardanger Fjord through the
Numedal.
4-5 Days. Of the great routes fcomp. pp. 33, 44, 50) leading from E. 'Nor-
way across the Fjeld to the W. coast this is the least attractive and is
seldom used except by Norwegians. The inhabitants, however, are inter-
esting, as they have retained many of their primitive characteristics and
traditions. A Carriage Road with fast stations leads through the Numedal
to Breslentd in the Opdal (123 Kil.), from which driving is also practicable
to Floten, 11 Kil. farther on. Beyond this the traveller must ride or walk.
Kongsberg, see p. 27. — The road, leaving that to the Bolkesje
(p. 28) to the left, follows the right bank of the Laagen.
17 Kil. Svennesund. We cross the Laagen and pass the church
of Svenne, 011 its left bank.
SKJ0NNE. Map,pJpS. — 6.R. 43
14 Kil. Sendre Flesberg, near the church of Flesberg. Farther
on the valley contracts. We cross to the right bank by an iron bridge.
16 Kil. Alfstad [Inn, vrell spoken of). The valley is pretty
wide here. The gaard Fikkan or Fehjan, 6-7 Kil. from Alfstad, also
affords good accommodation, and its owner has constructed a hut for
sportsmen and anglers on the Sorkevand or Serkjevand, 10 M. to
the W. The Fikhm Scpter belongs to Frithiof Nansen, the Arctic
explorer. At the Vagli-Kirkeyte cross the stream, -which here forms
a small fall. On the left bank is the Brobakken Hotel , near the
skyds-station of • — •
17 Kil. Helle (inn). — The road ascends and then descends again
to the Ytre Nore-Fjord or the Kravik-Fjord (868 ft.}, along tlie bank
of which it runs. To the left rises the E'uhfjeld (4940 ft.). One of the
old buildings oi Gaard Kravik is said to date from the 12th century.
On the opposite (right) bank of the river are the old and the new
Nort-Kirke. The road then skirts the 0vre Norefjord (12 Kil. long),
passes the farm of Sevli, and reaches —
27 Kil. Skj«rime (920 ft. ; good quarters), with several old
buildings. Beyond Skjenne the road crosses the Laagen and turns
CO the W. into the Opdal. The scenery becomes very picturesque.
The Opdals-ELv forms several waterfalls. The road ascends rapidly
to the Fennebufjord (1525 ft.).
11 Kil. Liverud, at the W. end of the Fennebufjord, near the
.Stavekirke of Opdat. We continue to ascend, passing several farms
and the new church of Opdal.
21 Kil. Bresterud or Brostrud (_2625 ft.; fair accommodation).
Quarters may also be had at Nerstebe, a little higher up.
From Brpstcrud a mountain-path leads to Neraal in tlie Hallingdal in
l-l'/i'day. It ascends p.ist the Vast a,nd Hufde sseters in 4hvs. to (17 Kil.)
Aasberg (i|uarter3 and horses at Gunnar Aasber^'s ami Halvor K)0naa3's),
in Dagalid (2750 ft.). — Farther on we cross the fjeld to the" Sknrdal
(10 Kil.; 2740 ft.; quarters at the Gitttormsgaard). and then another height
by a road to the (17 Kil.) Ustadal (quarters at Jeilo and Tu/lo); lastly past
several farms to Jfiimmersbeien and Not, near Xeraal (p. 47).
For the route across the mountains to the Hardanger (100 Kil. ;
three days) a guide (Thore dundersen Videsjorden of Opdal) should
be engaged lower down the valley, and a supply of provisions
obtained. The route from the Nerstebe at first follows the sseter-
path, and then traverses the \oUy Hardanger VkWu (4000 ft.), com-
manding an extensive view in every direction. It leads past the
Skarsvand to the Sknrf-Scpter, where the Laagen is crossed by boat.
We pass the night, after a walk of 11-12 hrs., in the tourists' hut
on the Laagelidbjerg, or Laagriberg (3805 ft.).
On the second day we skirt the river, the Gjetsje, and the S'tore
NordmandssUebet, and after a walk of 10 hrs. spend the night in
the tourists' hut at the meeting of the Bjereia and the Svinta. Next
morning our route leads us to the Nybu-Satre (SGOO h.), on the
\ybu:*j0, the first on the W. side of the fjeld (VeMenfjeUhkeKorge).
44 R.7. — Map,p.2-2. KR0DEREN. From Christiania
Beyond tliis we generally follow the course of the Bjereia, which
lower down forms the Verlngsfos (p. 112), and cross snow, brooks,
and marshes. We pass Storlien, Mnurstft, and Garen, and reach
the Fosli Hotel (p. 112} in time to go on to Vik the same day.
7. From Christiania through the Hallingdal to
Laerdals^ren on the Sognefjord (Bergen).
350 Kil. Railway to Krederen, 122 Kil. ; express in 4^4 lirs. (fares 6 kr.
40, 4 kr. 15 0.), ordinary train in S'/z brs. (fares 5 kr. 90, 3 kr. 70 0.). —
Steamek (fair restaurant on board, D. 2 kr.) from Kr^deren to Qiilsvii-,
44 Kil., daily in 2V2-3V2 lirs. (fare 2 kr. 50, 1 kr. 40 0.). — Road from
Gulsvik to LccrdaUeiren, 184 Kil., a drive of 3 days, i'ast skyds-tariDf.
For a carriage and pair ('kaleschvogn'), for two persons, the usual fare is
85 kr., for 3 pers. 100 kr., for 4 pers. 115 kr. (.sometimes less when the
demand is slack), to which a fee of 5-B kr. is added (comp. also p. xxii).
The journey is best divided as follows: (1st Day) From Christiania tO
Gulsvik. (2nd) From Gulsvik to Rolfshus. (3rd) From Rolfshus to Breistelen
or HoBij. (4th) Thence to Lwrdalseren. Or we may spend the first night at
Ifces, the second at BJeberg, and the third at Lwvdalseven. It is even
possible, by travelling 14-18 hrs. a day, to reach Lferdals0ren in 2 days,
spending the night at Rolfshus. As almost all the stations on this route
are either good or tolerable, the traveller may divide his journey as best
suits his convenience.
From Christiania to Vikesund, 96 Kil., see R. 3. A hranch-
line (carriages changed) runs thence to Snarum and —
26 Kil. Kr«deren (^Restaurant ; Hotel Krederen ij- Skyds Station,
opposite the rail, station ; Kalager's Hotel, V4M. distant, both plain),
prettily situated at the S. end of Lake Kr«rderen (445 ft.; 16 sq. M.
in area, 100 ft. deep), near the efflux of the Snarums-Elv. The
pier is 1/2 M. from the station. The lower part of the lake is sur-
rounded by smiling hills. A skyds-road skirts the N.E. bank.
Beyond the church o( Kredsherred or Olberg, which lies on this road,
the lake contracts to the river-like Noresund. The road crosses
here and continues its course on the W. bank, with the steamboat-
station of Sandum. Farther on the lake again expands, and the
scenery becomes wilder, especially beyond Nces, where the broad-
backed Norefjeld (4980 ft.) rises boldly above the lake on the left.
The interesting Ascent of the Noeefjeld (10 hrs.) is best made from
Siinchim (see above; steamer from Krederen 1 kr. 10 0.). We ascend by a
steep bridle-track leading through fir-woods to (2 hrs.) the good tourists'
hut at the Sandiim-Sceter, which aflfords a fine view of Lake Kr0deren.
Our route next runs to the N.W. across a lofty plateau (leaving the
Ramsaas on the right), with a view of the mountains of Teleniarken and
of the Eggedal. It then ascends to the Augunshaug (4012 ft.; extensive
view). The summit of the Hegevarde (4960 ft.; small tourist-hut), rises
5-G Kil. to the N.W., but nothing is gained by ascending it (472-5 hrs.).
From the Augunshaug we may descend direct to the K. to Tuiigen and
Ring7i(cs, a 'fast' station, 11 Kil. fn m (111 erg and 17 Kil. (pay for 25) from
Gulsvik. From the Hegevarde we may descend to the N.E. through the
valley of the Gulsvik-Elv to (7 hrs.), Gulsvik (see below).
In 2*y'2-3i/2 hrs. the steamer reaches —
Gulsvik [MO ft.; Oulsrik's Hotel, very fair), at the entrance to
to Litrdalshrei,. N^S. Maps, pp. ,5(1. 10. — 7 . R. 45
the Hallingdal, a name applied to the whole district bounded on
the N. and E. by Valders, on the S. by the Numedal, and on the
W. by the Hardanger region.
The inhabitants of the side-valleys and of the upper portion of the
main valley (p. 46) retain many of their ancient characteristics. Their
passionate disposition, which formerly found vent in the terrible girdle
duel C Bceltespander' ; cnmp. p. 342), is still manifested in various way;,
especially in the wild Hallimjdans or Springd<.ns, accompanied by a weird
kind of music CFaniiulletC).
The skyds-station is about 3y^ M. from the lake. The lower part
of the valley is rather monotonous. The road follows the right bank
of the Hallingdals-Elv and is nearly level all the way to Nfes. Near
tlie church of Flaa, 11 Kil. from Gulsvik. is the Hotel Vik (very fair).
14Kil. Aavestrud(^i!iir station). The road passes several lake-
like expansions of the Hallingdals-Elv, on the largest of which,
the Brummavand (575 ft.), upwards of 18 Kil. long, lies ■ — ■
17 Kil. Berrtnas (indifferent). At the head of the lake lies —
11 Kil. Naes or Nes (ZVcps Hotel ^' Skyds Station, D. with coffee
i^/i kr. ; Svenkerud''s Hotel, both very fairj, a large village, with a
church, the district-jail, a chemist's, and other shops. [In the
reverse direction we may descend the river from N£es to Gulsvik by
boat (3 hrs. ; 8-10 kr.). The many rapids make the trip rather sensa-
tional, but there is no danger when the river is moderately full.]
FitoM N^s TO Lake SpiRiLi.EN, 10-11 hrs. (guide unnecessary). A well
defined sa:ter-path ascends to the E. to Lake Sli-een (good fishing ; quarters at
one of the sseters), in 3-4 hrs., and by Djupedal in 3-4 hrs. more to Ildjarn-
stad (p. 51), whence Nws in the Aadal , at the head of Lake Spirillen, is
22 Kil. distant (comp. p. 51).
.Scenery pleasing, with numerous farms and fine pine-woods.
About halfway between Njes and Rolfshus we cross the river.
Farther oti (about 8 hrs" drive from Gulsvik) is —
■20 Kil. Eolfshus {^-Btry's Hotel, E. IV2, B. & S. 1 kr. each,
baths), a pleasant stopping-place.
FiiOM R01.FSHLS TO THE Valders (10-12 hrs.; guide necessary). The
path, which diverges from the road at the Hesla-Bro (see below), ascends
very steeply for 3, ^hr. and then leads across the FJeldvidde. On the way
we pa.'*s the Baxters of Brdutano and Mene. Kightiiuarters are obtainable
at the swter of iSnndiirstelnn.
The valley turns to the W. About 2 Kil. above Rolfshus the
Hallingdals-Elv is joined by the Hemsil. descending from the N.W.
The latter forms a fine waterfall. We cross the Hemsil by the Hesla-
Bro, beyond which the road through the main valley leads to the
left (see p. 47), and ascend its right bank in the Hemsedal, mount-
ing the Golsbakker in long windings, and passing halfway up within
sight of the new church of 60I, to the left (comp. p. 19). Beyond
(10 Kil.) Lesteguard (14-40 ft.) we again cross the Hemsil and
follow the E. side of the valley, passing several farms, while the
W. side and the bottom of the valley are uncultivated. About
n Kil. farther on we reach —
16 Kil. Kleven i Qol (cheap quarters). The scenery becomes
4h Route 7. l''AUSKE. From ('hrintiiinia
uiiiiiterestiiig for a considerable distance. About 4 Kll. farther on
isElcre(2G06it.).
From Ekke to the Valdeks (10-12 hrs.). A rough saeter-path ascends
from Ekre to the '■JIeiei'\ passes the Vannenvand and the Storsja at the
l>ase of the huge Skogshorn (5660 ft.) , and leads through the district of
Lykkja, with its scattered houses , to the (5 hrs.) Fuaheim-Sreter, on the
Svenskenvand (2860 ft.), and on to the station of Fosheim (p. 55).
Another route to the Valders diverges from our road at Ulsaker, be-
Iwcen Ekre .^nd Fauske, ascends past the base of the Skogsltorn (see above)
to the Helsingvand, skirts the E. bank of the Mundsendvand, and leads
to the Grunken-Oaard, where it crosses the Smaadela^ falling into the
Svenskenvand. It then leads along the Smaad^la to the N. end of the Hele-
vand and the Vasends-Swter, passes the base of the Qrindefjeld (5600 ft.),
and descends to Grinda/ieim (p. 56), about 13-14 hrs. from Ekre.
On the opposite bank of the Hemsil rises the Veslehorn , from
which descend four small waterfalls, uniting into a single cascade
during the melting of the snow. The road passes Kirkebe^ a poor
village, with the Hemsedals- Kirke , the last in the district before
that of Borgund (83 Kil.), and 7 Kil. farther on reaches —
20 Kil. Fauske (good quarters), at the union of the Grendela
and the Hemsil. Near Fauske the Hemsil forms the Rjukande Fos
('smoking fall'), to which a path leads.
Cultivation now ceases, and a few scattered sseters only are pass-
ed. The road ascends rapidly and traverses the bleak Merkedal, a
scene of stupendous mountain-solitude. This stage takes fully
3 hrs.
20 Kil. (pay in the opposite direction for 80) Bjefberg (3320 ft.;
Station, good plain quarters, frequented by reindeer-stalkers), the
last station in the Hallingdal, lies in a bleak solitude at the foot
of the Hemsedals fj eld. Farther on (7 Kil.) we pass a columu marking
the boundary between the 'Stiff' of Christiania and that of Bergen,
The road skirts the precipitous Kjelberg on the left and the Eldre-
vand on the right. To the N.E. rises the Jekulegge (6280 ft.). The
road, the highest in Norway (3800 ft.), then descends rapidly to —
15 Kil. (pay for 22 in either direction) Breistelen {Hotel, very
fair). Then a continuous descent, passing several waterfalls, to the
bridge oiBerlaug on the Valders route (p. 58; 7-8 hrs. from Fauske).
A little below the bridge is —
12 Kil. (pay for 15 ; in the opposite direction for 19) Haeg i Bor-
gund (p. 58). — From Haeg to Lcerdalseren (39 Kil.), see pp. 58-60.
The Upper Hallingdal.
The Hallingdal in the narrower sense, or main valley (Hoveddal-
ferei), ascends to the W. from Eolfshus (p. 45) to the wild and desolate
regions of the Hardanger Vidda ('hunting-ground'), across which toilsome
paths lead to the Sogncfjord and to the Hardanger Fjord. Perhaps no-
where else do we receive so overwhelming an impression of the peculiar
nature of the Norwegian fjelds as here, where the mountains seem to
lose the ordinary characteristics of mountains, the eye resting only here
and there on an isolated 'Nute' rising above the general level of the
monotonous plateau. The lakes swarm with excellent fish; snowy owls
Geo^dph Anstalt vniUj» l^il,,
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to Lindiilfercn. SliJSDJU'',. 7 . lltHite. -^ i
nest among the rocks: aud the eagle pursues liis quarry unmolested. At
places the ground is thickly strewn for a lung distance with the droppings
of the lemming f'Zewcfn', ''myo(les\ Hemmus Norcegicus'')^ a hardy little ro-
dent, tbe wonderful migratory instinct of which is still a puzzle to natural-
ists. The reindeer is .«aid to kill the lemming with a blow of its hoof
aud eat the stomach tor the sake of the vegetable contents. The air is
remarkably clear and fresh, though fogs and storms are ot frequent occur-
rence. With this district are associated some of the most famous of
Norwegian sagas, such as that of the Yilland family, and the inhabitants
retain more of their ancient characteristics than those of almost any other
part of Norway. With the exception of the higher mountain.?, however,
the ."cenery is neither picturesque nor imposing.
To THE Hakdanoer Fjord. 1st Day: Skyds from Rolfshus to Hanuner-
IjeenQhrs., walk thence to GJeilo 2'/^ hrs. 2nd Day: On foot to the Krotkja
Hut 9 hrs. 3rd Day: On foot to the FosH Eotd 10 hrs. 4th Day: To Vik
i Eidfjord, see p. 111. — To the Sognefjord (one of the finest fjeld-passes).
1st Day: Skyds from Bolfshus to Skciro 9-10 hrs. 2nd Day: Skyds to the
Strande-Fjord IV:; l"".. bcat-skyds to Siingaavdsbotten 2^fz hrs., on foot to
the Steinbergdal Hut 5'/'.: hrs. 3rd Day: On foot via i>sterbo (where the
night may be spent if needful) to the V(tshii(jdcand ^ 'hrs., boat-skyds across
the lake ^4 hr., walk to Amiand l'/4 hr. — The accommodation and provisions
on the tjeld are very scanty; nothing is obtainable but fladbr0d, cheese,
coffee, and poor home-brewed beer ('hjembrygget 0V), except in the tourist-
luits, where canned goods are kept. Even milk is hard to get. The trav-
eller should therefore provide himself with some sausages or the like.
Rolfshus, see p. 45. Beyond the Heda-Bro (p. 451 the Hallingdal
road follows the left bank of the Hallinydals-Elv to EUefstnoen and —
15 Kil. Skjerping. Near Nybgaarden is the old tlmber-huilt
Church of Torpe, first mentioned in 1310 and partly pulled down In
1880. The porch and doors arc finely carved. A new church ad-
joins it.
11 Kil. Sundre i Aal (Inn, fair, D. 1^2 kr.). The old Thingstue
(with a carved door of 17G4) and the Gretastue (also of the 18th cent.)
should be noticed.
The road leads past the handsome church of .4a/, then skirts the
Strandefjord (1480 ft.), with a view of the Sangerfjeld (3i"65 ft.) to
the S., and divides 15 Kil. from Sundre. The road to the left (S.W.)
leads to the Hardangerf jord , that to the right (N. W.) to the Sognef jord.
1. Route to the H.\ruangerijord. The road crosses the
Hallingdals-Elv, which forms a waterfall, and after passing several
farms reaches (4 Kil.) H(immer»heen^ the last skyds-station. As the
track now becomes very had, we ascend the Vstadal on foot, passing
the newUstadal church, to (11 Ki].)Gjeilo (2G75ft.; rustic quarters;
guide to the Hallingskarv 3, to Kriekjahytten 7, to the Hardanger
12-14 kr.). About 2 Kil. farther on is Ttifte (3028 ft.), the highest
gaard in the valley (quarters).
The huge Hallingskarv may be ascended from thi.s point: the IC. peak
{6440 ft.) bv folIdwinL' the cour.se of the Eiinehein to the Presteholtstel; the
W. peak ((;135 ft.), better, from the W. end of the Ustuvand. View of the
Hardanger Vidd;i (p. 46) not picturesque, but very e.xtensivc.
Beyond Tufte the route passes the Smetbak-ScEter, crosses the
Vdadals-Elv by the 'Xybro' (the key of which must be brought by
the guide), ascends the slope of the Vstetind to the BerheUetjern,
passes the deserted Moni*buheia, crosses the tongue of land between
48 R. 7 — Map, p. 46. NEUAAL. Upper
the Legreidsvand and the 0rterenvand , skirts the S. hank of the
latter, and ascends the Svaanut to the Store Krakjavand. On the
N. bank of this lake lies the Krsekjahytte (belonging to the Tourists'
Union; 4085 ft.; about 9 hrs. from Gjeilo), a favourite resort of
anglers, where the night is spent (guide, Ole Larson Aker). — The
following route (B-7 hrs.) is shorter. From Tufte we follow the
Ustadals-Elv to the Ustnvand (3315 ft.), cross it by boat to 0rter-
dalen, walk to the (1 hr.) 0rterenvand, cross this lake also, and walk
(I/2 hr.) to the hut. Both routes have the Hallingskarv constantly
in view.
On the second day (10 hrs.) we skirt the Krsekjavand, and cross
the Krcekjdstubben river, near an old pitfall for catching reindeer.
We then descend the Hulnebottner to the Olafbuvand , cross the
Kjelda to the Fisketjern-Sceter, and reach the Sinytte-So'ter, the first
in the Hardanjicr. We next cross the Leira, which descends from
theN., to the Indste-Sater, whence the route to Maurscet (2445 ft.)
and the Fosli Hotel (p. 112) is unmistakable. The imposing Har-
danger Jekul is conspicuous the whole way.
2. To AuKLAND ON THE SoGNEFjoKD. Froui Sunde to the diver-
gence of the road to Hammersbeen, see p. 47. Our route skirts
the Holsfjord (1935 ft.) to (4 Kil. from the bifurcation) —
19 Kil. Neraal or Nedreaal (fair accommodation at the Land-
handler Tollef Sundre's ; R., S., & B. 2^/2^1.'), a drive of about
6 hrs. from Kolfshus (p. 45). It lies at the W. end of the Hols-
fjord and adjoins the old timber -built Church of Hoi, which is
attended on Sundays by the peasantry in their plctures(iue old-
fashioned costumes. To the W. towers the Hallingskarv (p. 47).
— We now ascend to a higher level of the valley, passing (left) the
picturesque Djupedalsfos. Farther on we skirt the Hevelfjord
(2125 ft. 1, at the W. end of which, ca. 5 Kil. from Neraal, lies the
Guard V'dland, once the seat of the turbulent family of that name,
who lived here about the year 1700 (comp. p. 47). — The stream
flowing towards the Havelijord is the tJrunda-Eiv. The road follows
it for ca. 5 Kil., then crosses by a substantial wooden bridge to the
right bank, and ascends the wild and rocky ravine of a tributary
brook, which we cross in 25 min. more. We then skirt the Sundats-
vand (4 Kil. long), pass the Gudbrandsgaard (2550 ft.), at its W.
end, and reach —
20 Kil. (pay for 251 Skaro or Skero, with the modest inn of
Asle Engebretsen (R. 60, B. or S. 70 c, D. 1 kr.), who also pro-
vides boat-skyds for the Strandefjord and acts as a guide across the
fjeld (to the Steinbergdal Hut 6-7 kr.). — The rough road ascends
for 8 Kil. more (i'/., hr. whether on foot or on wheels) and ends at
the 0vre Strandefjord (3180 ft.), which is 14 Kil. long. lu good
weather we proceed with boat-skyds (see above; 1 pers. 2, several
pers. 1 kr. each) in 21/2 lirs. to the upper end of the lake, but in
bad weather we reach this point by following the N. bank (3 hrs.).
HalUngdal. STEINBERGDAL. Map,p.ll2. — 7.R. 49
Here, &t SvinyaardsboUen, until about the middle of August, we
can obtain fair accommodation, and probably also a lad to act aa
guide to the Steinbergdal Hut (4 kr.).
A footpath, which diverges to the left from the route described below,
beyond the Ulevasbotten and the three smaller lakes, aacf nda the valley of
the Vesle^jln and then descends the iloldaadcd to (6-7 hrs.) the cattie-farm of
JJalliiiyskeiet, where we reach the new load to Valnahnlsen (see p. 13'j).
The actual mountain-pass begins here, at first in the form of a
sffiter-track which ascends past the L'levasbctten or L'revasbotten
and three smaller lakes. After about 1 hr. we reach the first (con-
spicuous from a distance) of the 'Varder", or heaps of stones, which
mark the route across the fjeld. For about 1/2 ^r. we pass under
the abrupt rocky wall of the Vlevasnuten (6930 It.), and then turn
sharply to the right to the 'skard', or gap, between the Ulevasnuten
and the SundheUerfjeld. Beyond the watershed we pass some smiU
lakes and cross several brooks and patches of snow. At the point
where the valley tnrns to the W. we ascend to the right to the
Bolhevdskard (3'/2 hrs. from Svingaardsbotten). We now descend
gradually into the wide upper part of the Steinbergdal, cross a
copious stream, where the path again becomes distinct, and reach
the Steinbergdal Hut of the Tourist Union (2955 ft.; nightquarters
for members of the Union 50 0., for others l'/4 kr.), I1/2 hr. from
Bolhevde. Guide from this point to the Vasbygvand about 8 kr.
The *Steinbergdal, which our path now descends on the right
bank of the stream, is a grand valley descending in steps, with
sombre basins, small lakes, a few green pastures, and deep rocky
ravines, in which the Steinbergdela forms several picturesque falls.
In l-i'/4 hr. wo reach the Idle- Sieter. About 72^^. farther on.
at the W. end of a small lake, the path turns into a side-valley
and ascends abruptly for V4 'i''- Below the small Noset-Sater it
crosses a narrow foot-bridge over a rapid brook which empties
itself by a line fall into the main stream. At the Grenestel-Sceter
we rejoin the main valley, which we continue to follow, at first
at a considerable height above the stream, and then descending
in winding.*;, to (1 hr.) ^.vteria (good quarters, R., S., & B. 21/2 kr.),
the first gaard in the district of Sogn, 31/2 hrs. from the tourist-
hut. — After a short ascent our route descends the steep and
once formidable Nccfbegulder , partly by a long ladder, and partly
by a wooden path attached to the clilf, above a small lake, to the
1^/4 l»r.) gaard of loathe. The path now cuts off the bend of the
valley and crosses a ridge on which lies the Hclmcn-Sceter. In
20 min. more we descend the steep and somewhat trying Bjernestig,
finally reaching the bottom of the ravine in windings. We then
ascend again to the gaard of Senjareim or Sennerheim (rfmts.),
3<*/4 hrs. from Osterbe, in a superb situation, recalling that of Stal-
heim (p. 128). Thence the path leads down the Senj are imsy alder,
■which are protected by an iron railing. After l'/4hr. the valley
expands. In 1/4 hr. more, after passing the gaards of 0ie and Slene
Baedkkkr's Norway and .'iweilen. 8th Edit. 4
50 Route 8. LAKE SPIRILLEN. From Christiania
(where a boatman must be procured), -we reach the sombre *Vas-
bygdvand, which is surrounded by abrupt rocky walls. We now
row across the lake to (40 min. ; l'/2 kr.) its W. end, whence a good
road leads in II/4 hr. to Aurland (p. 139).
8. From Christiania through the Valders to Laer-
dalseren on the Sognefjord.
The most frequented route between Christiania and the \V.
coast leads through the Valders. This district embraces the valley
of the Bceffna, which flows into Lake Spirillen, and also the lateral
valleys pertaining to it. Instead of the Spirillen we may take the
Randsfjord, where the main road begins, as our starting-point.
Four days should be alloNved for reaching Laerdalseren. The trav-
eller should arrive in good time at the place where he is to spend
the night, otherwise he may have to put up with very inferior
quarters.
a. Via, Lake Spirillen to Frydenlund,
238 Kil. (to Lffirdals/Sren, 406 Kil.). Eailwat from Christiania to Heen,
131 Kil., express in 4'/2 brs. (fares (5 kr. 80, 4 Ivr. 40 0.), ordinary train
in 6 lirs. (fares 6 kr. 30 0.. 4 kr.). — Steamboat from Heen to Serum,
56 Kil., twice daily in 5-5V2 lirs. (fares 3 kr.); when the river is low,
Ihe boat starts from Bergsund, to which passengers are conveyed by car-
riage. Through-tickets to Sjiirum are to be had at Christiania. — Eoad
from Sttrum to Frydenlund, 51 Kil. Fast stations. The Drivers' Union
(Kjereselskabet) lets carriages from S0rum to Lardal for 85, 100, or 115 kr.
for 2, 3, or 4 persons, but recommends previous ordering by telephone
to S0rum's Hotel. If the drive (im account of low water, see p. 51) be
begun at Granum, 5, 6, or 7 kr. is added to the above fares; and 6, 8,
or 10 kr. is charged for the detour to Lake Tyin (p. 161). Fares are usu-
ally reduced in the slack season.
From Christiania to Heen, see R. 3. — The steamer (D. on
board 2 kr.) ascends the Bagna or Aadals-Elv, with its lake-like
expansions. The navigable channel is indicated by buoys and
stakes. To the left are the large farm of Semm en and (farther on)
Skollerud, to the right the church of Ytre Aadalen. The banks
are hilly and covered with pines. Higher up, the stream becomes
very rapid. To the left farther on, 15 Kil. from Heen, lies the
gaard of Bergsund, where the steamer starts when the water is low
(see above).
The mountains become higher and more varied in form. The
course of the vessel is often obstructed by floating timber ('Tem-
mer'). About 2hrs. after leaving Heen the steamer reaches the rapid
Kongstrem^ which intersects an old moraine, and soon enters —
*Lake SpirUlen (495 ft.; probably from spira, 'to flow rapidly'},
24 Kil. long and 355 ft. deep, a beautiful sheet of water, surpassing
the Randsfjord. The banks are enlivened by numerous gaards, with
tlieir green pastures and scanty tilled fields, while over these rise
> rf ';.^-
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to Lcerdalseren. FJELDHEIM. 8. Route. 51
pine-clad mountains. To the left is tlie Hegfjtld (3240 ft.). The
chief place on the W. bank is Viker or Aadalen, with a church,
8 Kil. to the W. of vrhich rises the Oyranfisen (3540 ft.). On the E.
bank lies the gaard of Engerodden. Passing the Ramberg (1680 ft. ;
left), the steamer comes in sight of the church of —
Nas, or Nasmoen, at the head of the lake, with its wild moun-
tain-background. The Baegna enters the lake here, and its mouth is
crossed by a long ■wooden bridge, beneath which the steamer passes.
To the right, just beyond the bridge, about 4 hrs. from Heen, is
the station of Granum (Granum's Hotel, R. 1, S. 1 kr.), where the
steamer has to stop if the water is low (skyds to Serum, 11 Kil.).
To the N.W. of Nses, in the J0vre lledal, lies (22 Kil.) Ildjamstad, with
an interesting timber-built church (conip. p. 29), dating from about 1200.
According to tradition the whole population of this valley died of the plague
in 1349-50. When the church was afterwards discovered by a hunter, he
found a bear installed by the altar, in proof of which a bear's skin is still
shown. Similar traditions exist elsewhere in Norway and Denmark.
The Bc-egna is at first pretty broad; the navigable channel is
marked by stakes and buoys. To the right and left are wooded hills.
On the left is the Bjembratbjerg, on the right the precipitous Val-
dershorn, of which we obtain an imposing retrospect farther on.
The steamer passes the rapids of Valdersstwmmen, enters smooth
water, and reaches (IV4 hr. from Granum, 5 hrs. from Heen) —
S«ruin (Serum's Hotel, fair, UAyi-l, B. II/4, D. 2, S. IV4 kr.),
ri6 Kil. from Heen, is the terminus of the steamboat, water per-
mitting.
The Road up the valley from Serum is somewhat monotonous.
To the right, beyond the river, lies the gaard of Hougsrud, one of
the largest in Valders (praised by Norwegians as summer-quarters).
Farther on, to the left, is the ancient but modernized church of
the Nedre Hedal at ToUeifgriid, where a road to the 0vre Hedal
diverges to the left (see aljove). We now reach Dokken i Sendre
AurdcU. To the left rises the huge rocky Morkollen, the base of
wiiich is skirted by the road. From the left, farther on, descends
the Mitggedals-Elv. Scenery picturesque, the mountains showing
great diversity of form.
ly Kil. QarOiua (fair quarters). To the left rises the Tron-
hus/'jeld, on tlic right the Fonhusfjeld. Beyond the gaard of Stors-
veen we cross the Heleraa, which descends to tlio Baegna in a series
of pretty falls. A little farther on is the gaard of Olmhus. We then
skirt the Svnrtuikfjetd. To the right opens the basin otBang i Sendre
Aurdul, with its numerous farms, its church, and its parsonage, all
on the left bank of the river. Just before reaching Fjeldheim the
Baegna forms the beautiful Slorehrufos, which the road crosses.
17 Kil. Fjeldheim (/?ni, a large new building, fair, R. l'/.2,
1). 2 kr.) lies on the left bank of the Baegna. — The road now forks,
the right brancli leading via (5 Kil.) Breidablik to (14 Kil.) Sveen,
the left to Frydenlund.
4=i.
52 R. 8.— Map, p. 50. GREFSEN. From Christiania
The Sanatorium Breidablik lies amid pine-woods, about 2000 ft. above
the sea, and commands splendid views. Its six buildings contain m<ire than
100 rooms (pens. 112-151 kr. per month, baths extra). Enquiries should
be addressed to the 'Breidablik Fjeld-og-Skovsanatnrium, Valders'. —
Carr. and pair from (34 Kil.) Dokka (p. 53) to Breidablik in 5-6 hrs. (also
diligence).
The road to Frydenlutid ascends on the E. side of the ravine of
the Baegna. On the W. side of the valley rises the pointed Helde-
knatten, at the base of which is tlie old timber-built church of
Reinlid (13th cent.), the road to which (1 hr.) diverges to the left
before the Bsegna is crossed. Our road is hewn out of the rock al-
most the whole way. Near the gaard of Jukam, to the right, are
the remains of a huge 'giant's cauldron' (p. 294). Good views to
the left of the deep gorge of the Bsegna. After a drive of about
IV4 hr. from Fjeldheim we reai'h the highest point. The road
rounds a projecting rock and discloses a magnificent view of the
snow-mountains of Jotunheim, especially of the Kalvaahegda and
the Thorlinstinder. The road then runs up and down, partly through
wood, and unites with the Valders route about II/2 M. short of
Frydenlund. Travellers coming from Frydenlund are shown the
direction 'til Bang' by a sign-post at the crossing.
16 Kil. Frydenlund (p. 54).
b. To Oduses and Dokka vi& the Randsfjord or by the Northern
and Valders Railway.
The N. end of the Randsfjord, where the Valders route begins,
was hitherto accessible from Christiania only by a long detour,
taking a whole day, either viii Drammen and Henefos (R. 3), or via
Eidwold and Gjevik (R. 9a). The journey, however, has been con-
siderably curtailed by the new Valders Railway, which was opened
as far as Dokka in 1902, and, it is expected, will extend to Ton-
saasen by the autumn of 1903 and to Fagernajs in 1904.
From Christiakia to Dokka, 148 Kil. State railway (Nordbane, con-
necting Christiania with Gjffvik) to Eina, and private railway ( Valders-
bane) thence to Dokka in about 5 hrs. Those who wish to explore the
Randsfjord may go by train to Raikenvik (2'/2 hrs. from Grefsen) and take
the .steamboat there (p. 26: to Odnses 3',2-4i/2 hri). The Hue from the
0st Banegaard (p. 10) to Grefsen will be opened in the autumn of 10O3
(electric tramwav to Grefsen, see p. 10). Fares from Grefsen to Dokka
7kr. 10 0., 4kr. 60 0.
Beyond the suburb of Vaalerengen the Nordbane diverges from
the Ostbane and ascends in windings. To the left is the suburb
of Kampen with a large reservoir of the Christiania water-works.
Station Teien.
6 Kil. Grefsen (356 ft.), the junction for the branch-railway
from Alna (p. 60) and also connected with Christiania by the electric
tramway mentioned at p. 10. To the right, at the foot of the
Grefsenaasen (1195 ft.), lies the Grefsen Sanatorium.
10 Kil. Kjelsaas (508 ft.), near the point where the Akers-Elv
issues from the Maridalsvand, along the E. bank of which the train
to Lffrdalseren. DOKKA. Map, p. 50. — S. Route. 58
ruus, threading several tunnels. "We then ascend rapidly through
wood to Nitedal (770 ft.) and again descend. 32 Kil. Hakedal
(543 ft), with a church and disused iron-works. The train asi-eads
the valley of the Hakedals-Elv, skirts the E. bank of the Harestu-
vand, and ascends rapidly through a tunnel to Grua (1214 ft.). It
then descends via (61 Kil.) Limner (918 ft.) and (67 Kil.) Gran
(672 ft.) to —
72 Kil. Jaren (680 ft.), whence a branch-line runs via Brandba
to Edikenvih on the Randsfjord (7 Kil. ; see p. 261.
The main line once more ascends (steepest gradient 1 : 50) along
the wood-clad Brandbukamp (1656 ft.) to Bleiken (1165 ft.), where
we obtain a *View to the left of the middle portion of the Rands-
fjord (p. 26). Farther on, passing through wood and past some
small lakes, it reaches its highest point (1G17 ft.). At the station
o( Ilaai/aar (1404 ft.) we reach the pretty Einavand, the W. bank
of which we skirt.
101 Kil. Eina (1315 ft.), at the N. end of the lake, where the
train crosses its outflow, the Hunds-Elv , is the junction of the
Valders Railway I see below) and of the railway to Gj0vik. The
latter follows the valley of the Hunds-Elv, passing (107 Kil.) Reins-
voU (1167 ft.; branch-line to Skreia i Toten on Lake Mjesen),
Raufoss (1060 ft ; with a government cartridge-factory), BreiskaU,
and Nyi/ard. For (124 Kil.) Gjevik (423 ft.), on Lake Mjesen,
see p. 62.
The Valubes Railway descends to the W. from Eina, passing
the stations of Vasli and Skrukkalien, to the Randsfjord, the E. bank
of which it skirts (flue view), passing the stations of Fa M, Hov,
Bjernerud, and Fluh rg.
140 Kil. (39 from Eina) Odnaes (550ft. ; '^'Odnas Hotel; Vaarnces
Hotel, both about 1/2 ^i- from the pier of the Randsfjord steamers,
see p. 26; carriages in waiting).
The railway still :^kirts the Randsfjord for a short distance, then
ascends the valley of its affluent, the Etna-Eli\ and ends for the
time being (comp. p. 52) at —
148 Kil. (47 from Eina) Dokka, on a tributary of the Etna-Elv.
There is no hotel at Dokka, but carriages meet all the trains.
c. Koad from Odnses and Dokka to Lserdals^ren.
KoAD from Odnsea to LcerdaUeiven, 216 Kil. (from Dokka 208 Kil.), with
fast stations. For the whole distance a cariole costs about 40, a stolk-
jffirre for 2 pers. about 67V2 kr. The covered carriages (with two horses)
(iftered by the Drivers' Union (KjareseUkabet) arc more comfortable. The
faro from Odnses to Lrcrdal for 2 pors. is 85 kr., 8 pors. 100 kr., 4 pers.
115 kr. ; detour to Lake Tyin G, 8, or 10 kr. extra ; heavy baggage according
to bargain; fee 4-() kr. The .journey takes 3 4 days. In the height of the
season it in advisable to order carriages beforehand. A distinct bargain
should be made, both as to the fares and as to the hours of starting, halts
for dining, etc.
As almost all the stations are good, the traveller may divide his journey
in any way he pleases. Travellers reaching Dokka at noon by railway
54 R. 8.— Map, p. 50. FRYDENLUNI). From ChriHiania
can go on the aame afternoon to Frydenlund, and spend the next two
nights at Qrindaheim and Maristuei. Those sleeping at Odnces proceed the
next day to Fagernccs, on the third day to Nysluen, and on the fourth to
Lardalsoren. — Beautiful scenery almost all the way, particularly between
Frydenlund and Blaaflafen (143 Kil. or SO'/a W.), which will even reward
the pedestrian. The detour (one day) to Lake Tyin, with the excursion to
the Skinego (p. 161), is highly recommended.
The road beginning at the pier of the Randsfjord steamers at
Odnffis (p. 53) joins the highroad through the Valders, follows the
N. hank of the Randsfjord for about 21/2 M., and then ascends the
valley of the Etna-Elv. Farther on it crosses the Dokka, an affluent
of the Etna-Elv. Thriving farms and beautiful birches, but scenery
rather tame.
17 Kil. Tomlevolden {Tomlevold Hotel, with large old wooden
buildings, very fair; landlord speaks English}, in the district of
Nordre Land. — About 7 Kil. from Tomlevolden the road crosses
the Etna-Elv by the Heljerast-Bro, which aifords a fine view of the
Etna valley, and begins to ascend the wooded Tonsaas, with a level
plateau on the summit, which separates the valleys of the Etna
and the Bsgna (p. 51). A little beyond the bridge we cross the
boundary between Hadeland and Vulders. About halfway between
Tomlevolden and Sveen is a modest inn, Plads Trondhjem.
17 Kil. (pay for 18) Sveen (fair station) is beautifully situated
on the N.E. side of the Tonsaas. The road ascends through fine
forest-scenery, affording picturesque views of wooded ravines, to
(3 Kil.) *Tonsaasen's Sanatorium, a hydropathic and hotel (1980 ft.;
pension 115-170 kr. per month; post and telegraph station, with
telephone), a favourite summer-resort, with beautiful walks. A
road to Breidablik and Fjeldheim (p. 51) diverges here to the left.
We soon reach the wooded summit of the Tonsaas, 5-6 Kil. from
the Sanatorium. A few hundred paces to the left of the road are
some benches (2300 ft. above the sea), commanding a *View of the
beautiful and partially wooded valley of Valders, with the Strande-
fjord running through it, and the snow-capped Jotunheim Mts.,
Galdebergstind, andThorflnstinder in the background (p. 161). The
road now gradually descends and soon reaches the Bcegnadal, where
it joins the Spirillen road (p. 50).
18 Kil. (pay for 23) Frydenlund (*Hotel Frydenlund, English
spoken, R. li/^A B. l^/o, D. 2, S. iy2^i'-), a large village beauti-
fully situated to the left, on the slope below the road. On the road
are the skyds-station of Petersiorg inn), the Apothecary's Store,
and (a little farther on) the church of Nordre Aurdal.
Abont 6 Kil. to the W. of Frydenlund, on the S. bank of the Amdals-
fjord, into which the Aabjoraa descends in a considerable fall, lies the
Pension Hove (70 kr. per month). Thence a path leads past the Olsjei, via
Sinderlien and Sanderstelen, a sEEter-inn (4V2-5hrs. from Hove), to (10-11 bra.)
Rolfshiis, in the Hallingdal (p. 45).
The road, now nearly level, runs high above the Baegna, partly
through wood, and partly through cultivated land, and soon reaches
the Aurdalsfjord, with its numerous islands, from which the Baegna
t„ Lanhtlserni. FOSHKIM. Map, p. -16. —8. li. 55
issues. Fine view near Onstad. The road passes the Pension Nord-
(tnker and the District Prison. On the other side of the broad valley
is the Aabergshygd, watered by the Aabergs-Eiv, which forms the
Kvannefos. To the right, farther on, is a fine waterfall, called
Fosbraaten, and to the left is heard the roar of the Faslefos, a fall
of the Baegna. We now reach the beautiful Strandefjord (1170 ft.},
a narrow lake 12 M. long, through which the Bsegna also flows.
13 Kil. Fagernses i Nordre Aurdal (Hotel Fagerncss, with tel-
ephone, R. l'/2, ^- or S. ll/4kr. ; Hotel Fdgerlttnd, similar charges,
both well spoken of) lies amid Avoods on the N. bank of the lake,
at the influx of the Nces-Elo. This is a charming spot for some
stay, and the names ('fair promontory' and 'fair grove' respectively)
are appropriate. It is much frequented in summer by Norwegians
and by English anglers. The road through the 0stre Slidre to Lake
Bygdin (p. 1G4) diverges to the right at the Hotel Fagerlund.
About 5 min. on this side of the cross-roads is a steep path ascend-
ing to the right to a pavilion commanding a fine view of the lake.
The Lasrdal road crosses the Nces-Elu, with its pretty cascades,
and follows the bank of the Strandefjord, passing the churches of
Strand or Svenn(fs and (about 10 Kil. from Fagernses) Vlnas. Near
Ulnss a long bridge crosses to the opposite bank of the Strandefjord,
where the farm of Stende lies. To the W. rise the snow-mountains
on the Vangsmjesen and several of the Jotunheim peaks.
The upper part of the Strandefjord is called the Graneimfjord.
The road gradually ascends to —
15 Kil. Foslieim (Hotel, with baths). The lake narrows to a
river, the Baegna. The bridge, reached in 6 min. by the road leading
to the left from the hotel, is crossed by the routes to the Aolfjeld
(ascended in 4-5 hrs. ; horse 4 kr.) and to the Fosheim-Sater (2865 ft. ;
li/2-'2 lirs. from Fosheim, conip. p. 4l)), a dependance of the Fos-
lieim Hotel, at the S. end of the Svenskenvand, generally full of
English and other anglers.
Beyond the church of Reen, which lies above the road to the
right and is not visible from it, the river expands into the Slidre-
fjord (1200 ft.), whose N.E. bank the road skirts. About 9 Kil.
from Fosheim we reach the beautifully situated stone church of
Vestre Slidre (1255 ft. ), which commands a line view of the lake.
A narrow road diverging here to the right crosses the Slidreaas to
llogne in 0»tre Slidre (p. 1(13). Farther on, to the left, is Einangs
Hotel, at Volden. Beyond the house of the 'Distriktslffige', or physi-
cian of the district, which stands on the road (right), a gate and
private road to the right lead in 5 min. to the height crowned by
the comfortable Hotel 0lken (1400 ft. ; 31/2-4 kr. per day), a favourite
summer and health resort, generally crowded in the season. The
Vinsnms Hotel, just beyond kilometre-stone 90, is also apt to be
over-lilled. Farther on is the church of Lomen, known to have
existed in 1325 but almost wholly modernized.
56 R.8.~Map,p.]46. GRINDAHEIM. From Chmtiania
14 Kil. L^ken (*L0ken Hotel, landlord speaks English, R. I1/2,
B. 11/4, D. 2 kr.) is finely situated on the Slidrefjord and commands
a good view of the lake, with its numerous islands, and of the snow-
clad mountains to the W. of it.
The "Hvidhafd (white head'; 3360ft.), a peak of the Slidi-eaas, may
be ascended froin Yestre Slidre or L0ken in 2-'2i/2 hi's. At the top is IJei-
fjeWs Hotel. The view embraces the valleys of Vestre and JB'stre Slidre,
"the Bitihorn, and the snow-mountains to the N. of Lake Bygdin and the
Vinstervand. A few hundred paces farther on rises the "Kvalehegda, where
an admirable survey of the whole of the Bygdin range, the Vangsmj0sen,
and the Hallingdal mountains to the S. is enjoyed.
The road now runs mostly through wood, on the left bank of
the Bsegna, which ahout 6 Kil. heyond Leken forms a fine fall called
the Lofos. We then cross the Vesica and approach the brawling
Bffigna more closely. A road to the right leads to the church of
Hurum, mentioned in a document of 1327. Our road crosses the
Bsegna and passes the Van(jsnces Hotel (right). Later we cross the
Ala-Elv, descending from the mountains to the left.
15 Kil. 0ilo (1475 ft. ; ^Yang's Hotel; 0Uo Hotel), situated at
the foot of the Hugakollen, 150 paces to the left of the road. Those
who make a stop here may visit the Sputrefos, via the gaards of Rogn
and Dahl (there and back 2t/2 hrs.).
The road here reaches the "'Vangsmjesen (1530 ft.), a splendid
mountain-lake, 19 Kil. long, and follows its S. bank. It is largely
hewn in the rock, especially beyond the promontory and along the
steep face of the Kvamsklev. In spring and autumn the road is
sometimes endangered by falling rocks. At the worst point it is
protected by a roof. Farther on a grand survey of the lake is dis-
closed. On the right rises the Vednisfjeld, on the left the Grinde-
fjeld (see below), and opposite us the Skjoldfjeld. To the N. is
the Dresjafos. A little farther on, to the right of the road, is the
Church of Vang, which replaces the old Stavekirke ('timber church'),
removed to the Giant Mts. in Silesia in 1844. A stone in front of
the church bears the Runic inscription: '■Kosasunir ristu stin thissi
aftir Kunar bruthur sun'' ('the sons of Gosa erected this stone to
the memory of Gunar, their brother's son').
10 Kil. Grindaheim {Hotel Fayerlid, Vang Hotel, both very
fair, English spoken) is beautifully situated on the Vangsmjasen,
just beyond the church. To the S. rises the huge Grindefjeld
(6620 ft. ; ascent in about 6 hrs., there and back).
From Grindaheim to the Hccllingdal, see p. 46.
The road continues to skirt the lake. Opposite rises the impos-
ing N. bank of the lake, on which tower the conspicuous Skods-
horn (5310 ft.), of which a phenomenon similar to that seen on
the Lysefjord (p. 93^ is recorded, and the Skyrifjeld (5115 ft.).
About 12 Kil. from Grindaheim, near the W. end of the lake, into
which the Baegna plunges in a lofty fall, lies the church of 0ye.
The road crosses the stream and ascends to the small Strandefjord
(1675 ft.). The ascent becomes steeper and the scenery wilder. A
to Lcerdaheren.
NYSTUEN. Map, p. 146.— 8. R.
57
few farms are now seen on tlie
sunny (N.) side of the valley
only. The rough old road follows
the S. side of tlie valley. The
new road crosses the Bsegna and
reaches —
17 Kil. Skogstad(188b ft. ; Inn,
very fair, English spoken).
The new road passes the farms
of Opdal, at the entrance to the
//orndai, which ascends hence to the
Horntind (4775 ft."). After 3 Kil
it recrosses to the right hank of the
Baegna, which forms several falls
A high hut not voluminous fall also
descends from the Raubergskampen
(4130 ft.), to the light.
Beyond kilometre-stone 140 the
road once more crosses the Bjegna,
and then, at a cottage, forks, the
right hranch leading to Lake Tyin
(p. 161), and the left to Lccrdal. To
the right, as we follow the latter
is the Stelsnesi. To the left lies the
small Utrovand, above the S. foot-
hills of which rises the summit of
the Borrenesi (4140 ft.). To the
right is the Stugunese.
11 Kil. (pay for 17) Nystuen
(3250 ft. ; *Knut Nystuen's Hotel,
R. IV2-2, B. or S. 11/4, D. 2kr.;
English spoken), originally a Fjeld-
stue, or hospice, built by govern-
ment, situated on the barren Fille-
fjeld, at the S. base of the steep
Stugunese (4826 ft.) and above the
N. bank of the Utrovand.
The Ascent of the "Stugon^se
(4S25 ft.) takes about 2 hrs. from Ny-
stuen (4 hr><. there and back) and should
be made by those who renounce the
Skinegg. The general direction can
hardly be mistaken, but the construc-
tion of a proper path is much to be
desired. We bend to the right from
the road, about 5 min. to the W. of the
hotel, and farther on (no path) ascend
along the E. side of the brook. At the
top we turn to the right. The summit
commands a splendid survey of the
58 Ji. 8. — Map, p. 146. BORGUND. From Christinnm
Jotunheim range, of which the annexed sketch, after E. Mohn's Panorama
published by Beyer of Bergen (2V2 kr.), will convey an idea. Farther to
the left, above the lower hills, several peaks of the Horunger are also
visible, particularly the Austaboltind with ila glacier. Farther to the right,
beyond the Skinegg, are seen the snow- mountains to the K. of Lakes
Gjende and Bygdin, the latter finely grouped, from the Sletmarkpig to the
Thorfinstinder and the Kalvaahizrgda.
An interesting but fatiguing excursion of 6-8 hrs. may be made to the
fjeld to the S. of Ny.stuen to see the reindeer, which are brought here
by the Lapps in summer for pasture to the number of about '20iJ0. We
row across the Utrovand and follow a rough path to (1^/4 hr.) the -Gamme'
or Lapp hut. We tben make our way, with guide, to the ravine on the
N.E. side of the Suletind, and through this till we come in sight of the
other side of the valley. Hundreds of reindeer may be seen on the snow-
fields here about midday ; they are half-wild and take flight on any at-
tempt to approach them. Comp. p. 254. [At times the herd is much
iie:irer the road; enquiry may be made at Nystuen or Maristuen.] — On
the way back we enjoy a fine view of the .Jotunheim, similar to that
from the Stugun0se.
Beyond Nystuen the road reaches its highest point (3294 ft.),
on the watershed between E. and W. Norway. About 2 Kil. from
Nystuen, on this side of the Kirkestel-Sater, the old road diverges
to the left, skirting the imposing Suletind (5805 ft.), and rejoins
the new road near Maristuen (2-272 hrs., but hardly advisable on
account of the marshy ground). Beyond kilometre-stone 150 the
new road passes a column which marks the boundary between the
Stifts of Hamar and Bergen. The road then skirts the FiUefjeldvand
or Upper Smeddalsvand and the Lower Smeddalsvand (3085 ft.),
■with the Sadel-Fjeld rising opposite, ascends rapidly to the Bruse-
Sater ( 3240 ft.), and descends thence, high above the foaming Lara.
17 Kil. (pay for 22 in the reverse direction) Maristuen (2635 ft, ;
*Knut Maristuens Hotel, sometimes crowded, R. l*/2-2, B. 11/27
8. 172 l^r.), the second 'Fjeldstue' on the Fillefjeld, originally
founded as an ecclesiastical hospice in 1300.
Below Maristuen the more luxuriant vegetation (birches, aspens)
testifies to the milder climate of tlie W. slope. The road crosses the
stream issuing from the Oddedal and passes kilometre-stone 50
(counted from Laerdalseren). It then descends very rapidly and
crosses to the right bank of the Laera by the Haanung-Bro. At Ber-
Inug, about 4 Kil. above Hsg, the Hallingdal route, crossing the
river by a bridge, joins our route on the left (p. 46).
13 Kil. (pay for I'T) Hseg (1480 ft.; Hotel, well spoken of).
Beyond the farm of Kvamme the road again bends to the S.W.
and is nearly level , traversing the former bed of a lake, the S.
enclosure of which was the Vindhelle (p. 59). Numerous gaards.
About 9 Kil. from Hicg and 4 Kil. from Husum the road reaches
Kirkevold's Hotel Boryund (very fair, D. 1 kr. 80 0.) and the small,
age-blackened —
*Church of Borgund (key at the inn ; 1-2 pers. 40, each pers.
more 20 e.), the best-preserved '■Stavekirke' in Norway, perhaps
dating from 1150 or earlier, though first mentioned in a document of
1360. It has been carefully restored by the Norwegian Society of
to Lttrdiih-eren. HUSUM. Map, p. 146.~8. R. 59
Antiquaries, vcliose property it is, and shows the original character
of this kind of church with great accuracy. The ornamentation,
especially on the lofty portals, belongs to the best of its kind. The
interior consists of a nave and aisles, with twelve columns, adjoined
by an aisleless choir with a semicircular apse (this last, perhaps, not
a part of the original church). When the doors are shut, the interior
is in almost total darkness, light being admitted only by tiny
openings in the walls. The use of window-glass was unknown in
Norway at the time of its construction, and the service probably
consisted solely of the mass, chanted in the candle-lighted choir,
while the congregation knelt devoutly in the dark nave. No 'Stave-
kirker' were built after the Reformatio7i. On the W. portal are the
Runic inscriptions : — ^Thorir ralst runar thissar than Olau missn''
(Thorer wrote these lines on St. Olaf's fair), and '■Thittai kirkia a
kkkiuvelli (This church in the church-ground). The form of these
runes affords a clue to the probable date of the building. — The
Belfry ('Stjepel'), standing between the old church and the large new
one erected on the same model, is old but was restored about 1660.
A few hundred yards beyond the two churches the road enters
the picturesque ravine of the Svartegjel, which the Lsra has formed
in forcing its passage through the huge rocky barrier of the Vind-
helle. The grandest point is the Svartegjelfos, close to the entrance.
Farther on, to the left, at the mouth of the Dylma, lies Nesdalen.
Tlie gorge then again contracts to the Grimseigjel.
After seeing llie waterfall in the Svartegjel, walkers may return to
the. Hotel Borguiid and ascend behind it, between the houses and the
l)arns, to the Old Koad, recognisable by the telegraph-poles. By ascending
this to the left, we olitain a good view of the churches from above.
I5ey<ind the viilgc the road descends in rapid zigzags, atlbrding views of the
Lrcrdal. From the Hotel Borgund to Husum by this route is a walk of V2 br.
13 Kil. Husum (1070 ft,; Hold, very fair, D. 2 kr., landlord
speaks English). The L;era here forms the small cascade of Hol-
gruien.
The road soon enters another grand ravine, crossing the bois-
terous river by the Nedre Kvamme-Bro and skirting the overhanging
rocks close to its left bank. To the N. of the gorge, at the base of
the precipice along which the old road ran, is the gaard of Galderne.
The water-worn rocks show distinctly how much higher the bed
of the river must once have been. At one point the old bed of the
t^tream has been utilised for the passage of the road, for which part
of a 'giant's cauldron" (p. 294) has been hewn away. Farther on, to
the right, is the picturesque Store Soknefos.
As soon as the ravine expands, we come in sight of Gaard
Sifltun, situated on a huge mass of debris ('■skred'). The road
crosses the river and follows its right bank. It then intersects
the deposits of the Jutul-Elv (fall to the right) and traverses
a broader part of the valley, from which the Opdul, closed by the
snow-clad Aaken or Okken (5685 ft.), diverges to the S.E.
60 Route 9. EIDSyOLD. From Christiania
15 Kil. Blaaflaten (hotel) lies a little to the left of the road.
Behind is the small Befos. The valley is still enclosed by lofty
mountains, on which the ancient coast-terraces are noticeable
(comp. p. xxxi v), rising in steps and forming straight horizontal lines.
The road crosses the river by the Volds-Bro and passes the church
of Tenjum. By the farms of jEri, where the valley suddenly trends
towards the N., we have a particularly good view of the above
mentioned terraces. Looking back, we obtain another view of the
Aaken, with its peculiar crest. Lastly the valley turns towards the
W. On the right, near 0ie, is the fine Stenjumsfos, which descends
in two falls from the Veta-Aas and Hegnn-Aas.
11 Kil. Lserdalseren, see p. 141.
9. From Christiania through the Gudbrandsdal to Stryn
on the Nordfjord, Marok on the Geiranger Fjord,
or Aandalsnses on the Romsdals Fjord.
The distance from Christiania to Visnas (Stryn), on the Nord-
fjord, is 487 Kil.; to Marok, on the Geiranger Fjord, 46o Kil.; to
Aandalsnas, on the Romsdals Fjord, 459 Kil. Each of the three
routes takes 3-4 days, and in each the last day's journey is the finest.
a. Railway from Christiania vi9, Hamar to Otta in the
Gudbrandsdal.
297 Kil. Express (lo Lillehammer, Ihence ordinary train) in 8^4 his.
(fares 25 kr. 20, 17 kr. 80, 11 kr. 90 0.) ; ordinary train in l^Vz hrs- (tares
14 kr. 80, 8 kr. 70 0.).
Christiania, see p. 9. As the train leaves the station, we
obtain a fine view of Christiania and the fjord to the left, and of
the Egeberg and the suburb of Oslo to the right. 4 Kil. Bryii
(260 ft.). — 7 Kil. Alna is the junction of a branch-line to Grefsen
(p. 52). — 11 Kil. Grorud (420 ft.); 18 Kil. Stremmen (485 ft.).
The train crosses the Nit-Elv, the N.W. feeder of the 0ieren.
21 Kil. LiUestreinmen (355 ft.; Rail. Restaurant), the junction
for Kongsvinger and Stockholm (see p. 78). The railway from this
point to Eidsvold, constructed in 1851, is the oldest in Norway.
Scenery unattractive ; but at Frogner (405 ft.) and Kleften (545 ft.)
we get a glimpse of blue mountains to the W. Beyond Jessum we
traverse a gravelly region, scantily wooded. At Dal, with its pretty
villas, the scenery improves. Two tunnels.
68 Kil. Eidsvold (410 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant; *Jernbane Hotel,
at the station), on the right bank of the broad and clear Vormen,
the discharge of Lake Mjesen, which at Aandalsnses (p. 78) unites
with the Glommen. Near the station is the Eidsvoldbad. By the
church is a ^Bautaslen in memory of Henrik Vergeland (d. 1845),
the poet, and the discoverer of the spring. In the former farm-
to Otta. HAMAR. 9. Route. 61
house of Eidsvoldsvark, about 5 Kil. to the S.W., the Norwegian
constitution ('Norges Riges Grundlov' ; comp. p. Ixxvii) was adopted
in 1814. The building has been purchased by government and
embellished with portraits of members of the first diet.
Beyond Eidsvold the railway follows the right (W.) bank of the
Vormen and beyond (75 Kil.) Minne, near the Minnesundj it crosses
the river by an iron bridge, 65 ft. high and 1180 ft. long. It then
reaches Lake Mjesen, the E. bank of \\hich it skirts.
Lake Mjesen (397 ft.), the largest lake in Norway, which
has been called 'Norway's inland sea', is 100 Kil. (62 M.) long,
15 Kil. (91,2 -^I-) in width at its broadest part, and 1480 ft. deep
near the S. end. It extends between the districts of Gudbrands-
dalen and Hedemarken to the N. and E., and those of Thoten and
0vre Romerike to the W. and S. In spite of its enormous depth,
its original connection with the sea is doubted by geologists, who
incline to attribute the depression to dislocation of strata. With
the exception of the Skreidfjeld (2300 ft.), on the W. bank, the
hills surrounding the lake are of moderate height.
The lake is traversed by several lines of Steameks, including services
fi'oni Ilamar to OJgvik and from Eidscold via Hamar and Gjevik (48/4 hrs.)
to Lillehammer (7'A hrs.). The b.inks with their unbioken succession of
fields, wuod.«, and pastures, studded with farm-houses and hamlets, are,
however, hardly jjicturesiue enough to encourage the jiurney by water. —
The Hunner itrret is an esteemed kind of trout peculiar to Lake Mj0sen.
84 Kil. Vlvin (420 ft.). Fine view of the Bay of Feiring , op-
posite. The train enters Hedemarkens Amt. 97 Kil. Espen (425 ft. ),
on the picturesque bay of Korsedegaard; 102 Kil. Tangen (540 ft.),
with the church of that name. The train ascends through a solitary
wooded region, past the small station of Stensrud, to (114 Kil.)
Stange (730 ft.), and then descends through a fertile district.
119 Kil. 0»estad (620 ft.), on the pretty Akersvik, which the train
crosses by an embankment, while the road, to the W. of it, crosses
by a wooden bridge.
120 Kil. Hamar (415 ft.; *RaiL Restaurant; Grand Hotel, with
view, very fair, R. 2-21/2 kr., B. 1 kr. 20 e., S. I'^kr.; Victoria,
Strand-Gaden, not far from the rail, station), a town with 5400 inhab.,
seat of the Amtmaud or governor of the district, and of a bishop,
is charmingly situated between two bays, the Furncesfjord to the N.
and the Akersvik to the E. The latter is crossed by a long bridge.
Hamar ( 'hill', 'headland) dates from 1152, when a bishopric was
founded here by the papal nuncio Nicholas Breakspeare. an English-
man, afterwards Pope Adrian IV, It was destroyed by the Swedes
in 1507. A visit should be paid to the ruins of the Cathedral,
dating from the 12th century. These lie about I1/4 M. to the N.W..
near the largo farm-house of Storhammer ; and we reach them by
following Strand-Gaden to the left on leaving the station, and then
Storhammer -Gaden, passing under the railway outside the town.
The four round arches of the nave, resting on massive pierS; are
62 R. 9. — Map, p. 50. LILLEHAMMEE. From Christiania
very picturesque. The modern town, which dates as a municipality
from 1848 only, has thriven greatly since the opening of the rail-
way to Trondhjem (p. 74).
From Hamar steamers (see p. 61) run twice or thrice daily (fares
1 kr. 30 0., 1 kr.) to Gjavik, passing the fertile island of Helge
('holy isle).
Gjflfvik (^Victoria, Gjevik's Hotel, both very fair), the capital of
Toten Fogderi, with 3100 inhab., is the terminus of the railway
(Nordbane) from Christiania (p. 61). About ^/^ M. to the N., on
the skyds-road to Vingnses (and Lillehammer; see below) , is the
church of Hunn (686 ft.).
The Road from Gjjsvik to (3^ Kil.) Odn^s (p. 53), passing ^langstuen,
was a favourite route to the Valders before the opening of the railway
(Nordbane).
Feom Hamar to Otta. — The railway skirts the Furnasfjord,
a large N. bay of Lake Mj^sen. View to the left of the Helge.
133 Kil. Jcsnes; 140 Kil. Brumunddalen, a flourishing industrial
■village; 144 Kil. Vddre, near the N. end of the fjord, with a pretty
view. — 153 Kil. Taiide, above Rimjsaker; the church of the latter
contains an early-Flemish altar-piece. On the adjoining peninsula
of Stansholmen are the remains of a castle of the 13th century.
The train now threads a tunnel and descends to (156 Kil.) Moelven,
again approaching the long and narrow N. extension of Lake Mj0sen.
160 Kil. Ring; 168 Kil. Bretlum; 175 Kil. Bergseng. Two tunnels.
184 Kil. LiUehammer. — Ingeekg"s Hotel, near the station and
the pier; "Victoria Hotel, prettily situated in the N. part of the town,
E. 2-3, B. IV2, D. 2, S. 13/4 kr.; Okmrud's Hotel; Johansen. — The hotels
send omnibuses to meet the trains and steamers.
Lillehammer (585 ft. above the sea, 180 ft. above Lake Mjesen),
with 3100 inhab., several saw-mills, a cotton-mill, and so on,
stretches for more than a mile along the road to the Gudbrandsdal
and is divided into a N. and S. half by the little Mesna. The town
Is old, but has enjoyed municipal privileges since 1827 only. It
is called Lillehammer ('little hill') to distinguish it from Hamar
(p. 61). — The railway-station and the church lie at the S. end of
the town. A few yards from the former, on the way to the town,
to the right, is the garden of Hirr Sandvik, containing a small col-
lection of old houses and other antiquities, from the Gudbrandsdal
(adm. 50 0.). — Near the Mesna bridge is a finger-post indicating
the way to (1^4 M.) the Heluedeshel, or 'hell cauldron', with the
pretty falls of the Mesna and a bath-house. — Another pleasant
walk of iy'2 ^^- leads to the S. from the rail, station to a bench on
the roadside, commanding a fine view of the narrow lake.
Opposite Lillehammer, on the W. shore of the lake (ferry from the
pier), lies the gaard of Yingnas.
At Lillehammer begins the Gudbrandsdal, which is watered by
the Laagen or Lougen (p. xxx). The name extends, as in other
en "sw;
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to Otta. TRETTEN. Map, p. 62. ~- 9. R. 63
districts, not only to tlje main yalley, but also to all its rami-
fications. The inhabitants [Gudhrandsdeler ; about 50,000) are
a ■well-to-do and high-spirited race, among whom curious old
customs still survive. According to Norwegian ideas the valley is
well cultivated, but the arable land has been laboriously reclaimed
by the removal of great quantities of stones, which are often seen
in heaps on the roadside. The syllables rud, rod, or ryd, with
which Norwegian names so often end, refer to the 'uprooting' of
trees and removal of stones. The chief occupation of the natives
is cattle-breeding, and their horses also have a good name. In
summer many of them migrate with their herds to the saeters. The
scenery is pleasing at places, but on the whole the valley is some-
what sombre.
The railway skirts the E. side of Lillehammer and crosses the
Mesna. Both sides of the valley are wooded. The Gausdal soon
opens to the left.
192 Kil. Faaherg; the church of that name is on the right bank
of tlie Laagen, which is here crossed by a bridge.
From Kaaberg a road, with last skyds stalions, ascends <he Gausflal
to the N.W. : 20 Kil. Veisten; 11 Kil. Moen; 17 Kil. Kvisberg.
The line ascends the left bank of the Laagen. — 197 Kil. Hunder,
near the farm of Fcssegaarden ((J20 ft.~). The Laagen here forms a fall
called the Hunnerfos (seen from the train, to the right) , where
Huuner-0rreter, or lake-trout (p. 61), are caught. We cross the
Laagen and skirt the steep Hoknafjeld{2A0b ft.). — 203 Kil. 0ier,
the church of which stands on the other bank. To the right flno
view of the broad green river and the wood-clad mountains.
214 Kil. Tretten (1870 ft. ; Hot. Losnavs, fair), at the S. extrem-
ity of Lake Losna (640 ft.), an expansion of the Laagen abounding
in flsh. The church of Tretten lies on the left bank, reached by a
bridge. At the head of the valley rise the snow-clad Rondane
(p. 75), looking from this distance of insignificant height.
From Tretten a new road (15 Kil.) ascends pa.st (5 Kil.) ]yinye's /^amt-
ioriiim (1870 ft.; well -eqiiiijpod ; li, 2V'.-3, B. I1/4, D. 2'/-', S. VU, board
3Va kr.) to the Heifjelds Sanatorium i Gausdal (2575 ft.; room 20-70, double
room 70-120, board >0 kr. per month; open iSth June to 1st Sept.). Pleasant
walks. The Skeidkampm (.3775 ft.; M'/a br.) and Prcestekampen (4200 ft.;
2 hrs.) are very fine points of view.
The railway follows the W. bank of LakcLosna, skirting the
Kilikwipien (;5550ft.) and other precipitous heights. — 224 Kil.
Loma. On the opposite bank lies the church of Fodvang. The
valley contracts. — Near (232 Kil.) Myre, on the opposite bank,
stands the wliite church of Faavang. An iron bridge crosses to the
hamlet of Tromsnas, on the left bank. Farther on, also on the
opposite bank, on a wooded height, is the old church of Rlngebu,
mentioned in 1270, but transformed into a cruciform church and
provided with a spire in the 17th century. "We penetrate the i^an-
klev by a tunnel and cross the Laagen and the Vaale. — 243 Kil.
Ringebu, near the gaard of Skj(fggeslad.
64 Route 9.—- Map, p. 62. VINSTRA. From Christiania
From Skjeeggestad a lonely path leads to (1 day) Solliden and thence
either to the "Atnevand and by Foldal to Jerkin on the Dovrefjeld (p. 71);
or down the valley of the Atne-Elv to Alna (p. 75).
The bed of the stream hecomes wider. The train runs on em-
bankments along the left bank of the river, skirting the base of the
Kjennuas and crossing the Frya. — 252 Kil, Hundorp (inn). The
gaard Huntorpe was once the seat of Dale Gudbrand, the powerful
heathen opponent of St. Olaf. Beyond it is the gaard Hove, for-
merly a heathen place of sacrifice. Near it are several barrows
('Ksempehouge').
l'"riim Hundorp a road (right bank) ascends the valley of the Fofsaa
to the Fagerhei Sunalorium (carr. in 4i/'2 hrs.).
Farther on we pass the church of Sendre Fron. The railway
approaches the Laagen, which soon becomes a mountain-torrent
and flows through a narrow gorge (view to the left) beyond (260 Kil.)
Harpefossen (inn).
Fnim the rail, station a road le. ds over the 'Harpe-Brn' and through
the Skordal to the (12 Kil.) Golaa-Bei/jelds Sanatorium (1970 ft. ; R. 2-4'/2,
board a'/z kr).
Farther on we skirt the foaming, rock-barred river. To the E.
we see the Solhraakampen. Beyond the church of Selorp or Nordre
Fron we reach —
268 Kil. Vinstra [Hotel Vinstra, with skyds-station, near the
rail, station, D. l^o kr.), opposite the junction of the Vinstra and
the Laagen. A road ascends on the left bank of the Laagen (bridge)
to (1 Kil.) the comfortable Furuheim Hotel <^- Sanatorium (R. 1-3,
B. 1, D. 2, S. 1, board 23/4 kr.; baths; English spoken). — From
Vinstra to Jotunheim, see p. 168.
Ahout 3 M. from Vinstra, on the Kong/slikampen, is the Kongsli Sana-
torium (ie40ft. ; E. IV2-2V2, board 3-4V2 kr.), which is well spoken of. —
The Fcefor or Fefor Sanatorium (2690 tt.; B. from IV2, board 31/2 kr.), on
the Fci'jorkampen, 71/2 M. from Vinstra, has also a good name.
From Vinstra to the Rdndane via the Myssu-Sceler, see p. 75.
The scenery becomes wilder and grander. The valley turns to
the N., and then to the W. To the left, about 1/2 M. on this side
of Klevstad, is a monument to Capt. Sinclair (see p. 65).
278 Kil. Kvam (870 ft.), with a church. A poor district, with
stunted pines and birches; fields irrigated by cuttings ; cottages
('Stuer') roofed with turf. The large slabs of slate often seen in
this district are chiefly used for the drying of malt.
287 Kil. Sjoa, opposite the mouth of the stream of that name.
The Road to the 'Sjoadal ascends to (15 Kil.) F.llingsbe, near the
church oi Hedalen. About 2-3 Kil. faither on ]its BJ0 If tad, an interesting
old gaard, the owner of which claims to be of royal descent. The main
builriing dates from the beginning of Ihe 19th cent., the others from the
17-18th centuries. — Fbom Ellingsb0 to Gjendesheim, a days journey
(skyds to Hovde 4I/2, two pers. 7 kr.). The fair road skirts the left bank
of the Sjoa, and alter about 12 Kil. forks. The right branch leads to the
Eandsrerk-Sater (p. C6), while the left bramh crosses the Fiiida and
continue to follow the Sjoadal, which here bends to the S., to (17 Kil.)
Hovde f^CeSft.; fair qiiarters). From this point the read (fkyds to Hind-
Sseter 4, for'2 pers. 6 kr.) ascends the Sjoadal, wh'ch turns to the W.
tu Olta. OTTA. Mup,p.66. — 9.Iioule. 65
and contracts to form the ravine of Riddersprangut, which takes its name
from the legend that the 'Valders-Ridder' sprang over it with his bride
in his arms when chased by the 'Sandbu-Rklder'. About 5 K.il. from
Hovdc we join the old route from the Randsverk-Sscter and follow this
to the S., crossing the Veo-Elr. to (15 Kil. from Hovde) the Hind-Smter,
situated at the influx of the Slore JHiuhn, which descends from the Naut-
^ardstind (p. 170). From the Hind-Seeter we proceed via the Ruslien-
Satter(p. 170) to the(10Ki! ) Besstrand Swter (p. 170; skyds 2V-2, for 2 pers.
S'/i kr.). We then row (boat, not always procurable, ca. 21/.; kr.) across
the JUrve Sjodalsvand or walk along the W. bank of the lake to (I'/i hr.)
the Be.s-Sositr. which is about 1 hr. from Gjendesheim (comp. p. 170).
The train recrosses the Laagen hy a long bridge, and hence-
forth follows the right bank. It crosses the green and copious Otia-
Elv near its mouth and reaches the terminus at —
297 Kil. Otta (945 ft.; Grand Hotel, R. l-2i/.,, B. I1/4, D. 2,
S. IVskr. ; Blekastad's or Otta Hotel, K. 11/4-2, B. 1 , D, ll/^,
S. 11/4 kr., both fair; Skyds Station, kept by Loftsgaard; Engl. Ch.
Serv. in summer), situated between the Laagen and the Otta~Elv.
A bridge crosses the Laagen to the Gudbrandsdal road, on which, a
little lower down, is the steep hill of Kringen. On 26th August,
1612, when Col. Ramsay and Capt. Sinclair with 900 Scottish
auxiliaries, who had landed a few days before at the Klungenas
on the Romsdalsfjord, were trying to force their way through
Norway to join the Swedes, then at war with the Norwegians,
they were intercepted by an ambush of 300 Norwegian peasants at
this spot. The natives had felled trees and collected huge piles
of stones on the hill above the road, which they hurled down on
the invaders. Most of the Scots were thus destroyed, and almost
all the survivors were put to the sword. [See p. Ixxiii; also Thomas
Michell's 'History of the Scottish Expedition to Norway in 1612'
(Loudon, T. Nelson & Sons), and Laing's 'Norway'.] A tablet on
the rock to the left, with the inscription ^Erindring om Bendemes
Tapperhed' commemorates the 'peasants' bravery'.
b. Koad from Otta via. Grotlid to Stryn, on the Nordfjord, and to
Marok, on the Geiranger Fjord.
190 Kil. (to Stryn) or 168 Kil. (to Marok), taking 2V2-3 days. Cariole
or stolkjarre to Grotlid, for 1 pers. 25 kr. 840., 2 pers. 38 kr. 76 f».; thence
to Hjellc <in the Strynsvand 12 kr. 63, 18 kr. 95 0.: for the whole wav
from Otta to Hjelle, cariole -iO, stolkjsprre 59, two-horse 'kaleschvogn'
for 2 pers. 85, 3 pers. ICQ, 4 pers. llo kr. From Grotlid 10 Marok 10 kr. 54,
15 kr. 81 0. ; from Otta to Marok 38, 56, 85, 100, 115 kr.
The road slowly ascends the Otta to the top of the fjeld and runs level
for some way, the scenery here being by no means striking. Bevond
Grotlid, however whence the road to Slryti T\ins to the S.W. and that to
Marok to the N.W., a vast improvement takes place. The roads from
Grotlid to Marok and Stryn belong to the W. coast of Is^orway and are
therefore described in R. 26. Travellers coming from the E. should, on
the whole, choose the Stryn route.
Good Night Quartkrs at Serum, Friisvold, Lindsheim. and Polfoneii;
and at Vida-Soeta; Skaare. and Hjelle (Stryn road).
The road ascends the wooded and monotonous Olladal, following
the foaming river.
Baedkkek's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 5
66 Route y. LOM. From Otta
17 Kil. Brovik. The road from Bjelstad i Hedal (p. 64) joins
ours, coming across a bridge on the left.
"We pass the old farms of Tolfstad, Bjernstad, and Snerle. The
valley expands, and the snow-capped Lomseggeii (p. 158) becomes
■visible in the distance. Near Serum our route is joined by the road
coming from Laurgaard (p. 69) via Nordre Snerle (21 Kil.).
12 Kil. Serum or Serem (Hotel, R. li/o, B. 1, D. 13/4kr., fair),
about ^/i M. from the old church of Vaage, first mentioned in 1270
and expanded , partly with the use of the old materials, into a
cruciform church in the 17th century. The old ornamentation points
to the beginning of the 12th cent, as the date of the original building.
The road now follows the S. bank of a lake 36 Kil. long, called
the Vaagevand (1135 ft.) in its E. and the Ottaimnd in its W. half.
Beyond the gaard of Voldcn, about 12 Kil. from Serum, a rough
road, diverging to the left, leads past the Lemitndijo to (29 Kil.)
Randsverk (p. 64), a large group of sjeters. Near the gaard Storvik
the road crosses the Tesse-Elv, which descends from the Tessevand
(3020 ft.), and forms several fine cascades. (The lowest fall may
be visited in ^/^h.v.; the highest, the Oxefos, in 11/2-2 hrs.)
Opposite, on the N. bank of the lake, rises the Skardhe (5340 ft.).
— Beyond Garino (formerly a skyds- station) we reach the new
hotel of —
21 Kil. Friisvold (very fair). — Farther on, the Lomskleu con-
ceals pajt of the lake, which now takes the name of Ottavand.
Facing us rises the huge Lomsegg (p. 158), at the foot of which
the Bcsvra, descending from the snow-mountains of Jotunheim,
falls into the lake. Near the bridge over the stream, which forms
a fall here, is the new Fosheim Hotel. — Just beyond the bridge,
on an old moraine, is the *Church of Lom (1290 ft.), an old
'Stavekirke' (p. 29), known to have existed in 1270 and after-
wards transformed into a cruciform structure, when the W. side was
lengthened and the lofty spire built. The apse is old and has the
usual round tower. The interior, with its nave and aisles, supported
by 26 flat-hewn columns, has lost its original character through
the introduction of a new ceiling. A silken flag with a hand holding
a sickle is said to commemorate the introduction of irrigation into
this district, where rain is scarce. By the Praestegaard is an old
'Stabbur', — Beyond the church the road forks. The branch to the
left ascends the Baiverdal to Rejshjem (15 Kil. ; p. 167). On this
road, about 1 Kil. from the fork, lies the station of —
16 Kil. Andvord or Anvord (fair quarters). — Our road continues
to follow the S. bank of the Ottavand. On the right, beyond the
lake, we observe the Loms-Horung (5660 ft.). The country here
is fairly well peopled. Rye and barley have been the regular crops
from time immemorial.
11 Kil. (pay for 15) Aanstad (fair quarters), near the church of
Skeaker, which lies a little to the right of the road.
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Beyond the Prastegaard tlie road crosses by an old bridge to the
left bank. Farther on it traverses thick deposits of sand, the remains
of old moraines. On the right vre pass the confluence of the Aur-
Eiv, descending from the Aursje, with the bluish-green Otta-Elv.
On the left soon opens the Lunderdal, with its immense moraines,
bounded on the S. by the glacier-clad Hesibrapigge (p. 158), by the
Holntinder in the background, and on the N. by the Grotaafjeld
(6380 ft.), the Tvarfjeld (6365 ft.), and the Svaahe (6135 ft.).
Farther on we recross the Otta-Elv by an ancient bridge in the
characteristic Norwegian style. The distant snow-peak ahead of us
is the Skridiilaupen (p. 68).
10 Kil. (pay for 14) Fkvkei (fair station), to the left of the
road. About 2 Kil. farther on is the former station of Lindsheim
(Inn, good, D. ll/o kr. ; Lars, the landlord, is well informed, and
also acts as a guide; private skyds).
Fkom Lindsheim to the Sognefjord. A road, turning to the left,
Ju3t short of the Domma Bridge (see belnw) and ascending the BrotedaU
leads via Aamot to (17 Kil.) Uork (2190 ft.), and thence, passing the ('/i hr.)
Dyringen- Sce/er, to (7-8 Kil.) the lower end of the Liavand. A footpath,
leaving the road at l)yringen and crossing the bridge, leads along the S.
bank of the brook and the S. bank of the Liavand i2475 ft.) to the (IV2 hr.)
Brcenden- or Brenn-Sater (occupied till the middle of Aug), whence it goes
on, with views of the Rivena:iskulen and the Tvaeraadalskirke, to the
(l><hr.) —
Soti-Saeter (2320 ft.; 4 hrs from Mork ; good qua-ters at Sven Kvi-
tingen's), a good starting-point for several fine Mountain Excursions (with
guide). 1. We ascend along the brook issuing fr.im the Sotkjcvrn and cross
it, into the Tvwraudal. From this valley we ascend t 1 the right through
the Steindal and traverse the glacier between the TiindredaUkirke (fi500 ft,)
and the Tvoeraadal.ikirke (6830 ft.) to the Fortundalsbva;. Hence a somewhat
trying descent brin;js us to the NerstedaU-Swter (p. 154 ; 9 hrs. from the
Sota-Saster). — 2. As above to the Tv;praadal, then to the right over the
EoV.brw to ihe FJeldsli-Sce'er (see p. 144). — 3. From the Sota-Sa'ter across
the bridge and along the N. bank of the stream, then along the 7i0fc.;(;sA'aaN
vnnd (3(J70 ft.) to the (li/a hr.) Mttsubi/lt-Sa'tev. The Svartbpidal is next
ascended to the Ilandspikje (4520 ft.), whence the route descends steeply
through the Spraiigdal to the Faaberg-Stel (p. 146).
Our road now passes the Nordbjergs-Kirke (left). The Opnaaaet
becomes visible beyond the Skridiilaupen. On the right the Gje-
dingsbcek descends from the Sletflykumpen (4485 ft.). The Domma
Bridge (ca. 7 Kil. from Lindsheim), by which wc cross the Otta-
Elv, commands a view of three valleys, the Tundredal to the S.
(with the snow-clad Tundredalskirke in the background; p. 154),
the Brotedal to the W. (see above), and the Billingsdal to the N.
The road ascends rapidly through huge rocky debris ('Ur'), over-
grown with flrs and pines, to the last-named valley. On the left
flows the Otta-Elv, which here forms the 0ibergsfos. We continue,
to follow the gorge of the brawling Otta and reach the Hegcrbotten-
viind, from which its foaming current issues. The lake contains
several islands. In the background is the Opnaa^et; to the riglit,
on the hill, lie the Heigerbotten-Satre (3020 ft.). Passing two saw-
mills, we next reach the Fredriksvand and the long Polvand
5*
68 R. 9. — Map, p. 66. POLFOSSEN. From Otta
(1930 ft.). Towards the end of the latter the Rauddal opens to the
left, commanded on the N. by the snow-clad Skridulaupen, with
the Framrusthovd and the Glitterhe.
21 Kil. (pay for 32) Polfossen (*Christ. Hjelters Hotel ^ Sana-
torium, with about 60 beds, R. li/o-^, B. or S. IV4-IV2, D. 1V2-2,
pens. 31/2-4 kr. ; landlord speaks English), finely situated amid
wood, near the fine series of falls called the *Polfos, which is over-
looked by a bridge. Trout-fishing may be enjoyed here.
By crossing the bridge and proceeding towards the N.W., we reach
the Botten-Swtei; which lies on the Glitters-Elv, the oulflow of the Glit-
tersvand. To the S.W. of Polfos, at the lower end of the RauddaJ , lies
the (I'A liT.) Framriist-Soetev (2P90 ft). From this sa-ter a. grand route,
much frequented before the opening of the Videdal road (p. 190), leads
through a wild district to (14-15 hrs.) the Strynsvand. The path ascends
through the Rauddal, skirling first the long Raiiddalsvand and then
the Rauddalshrm. After reaching the Kamphamre (-5065 ft.) we descend
rapidly into the Siindal and through the Hjelledal to Bjelle, on the Stryns-
vand (p. 189). — By crossing the bridge over the Framrust-Elv, to the S.
of the Framrust-Sa ter, and surmounting the ridge to the S.E., we reach
(1 hr.) Mork (p. 67), the starting-point of the passes to the Sngne district.
The road passes the falls of the Otta-Elv. The valley expands
and takes the name of Biliingsdalen. We cross a bridge over the
Kvarnaa , which descends on the right from the Syvstaalkirke
(4525 ft.) in a series of falls. Thousands of fallen trees ('Vindfald')
rot on the ground, as there was no market for them before the con-
struction of the road. We cross the Thordals-Elv, fed by numerous
glaciers and snow-fields. On hills formed by debris, to the right,
lie the saeters of BilUnyen, to the S. of which, on the opposite side
of the Otta, are the Aasen-Scetre. The country looks parched, as
rain is very scarce here in summer, the result of cutting down the
forests. We pass the Vuluvand, a pretty mountain-lake on the
left, into which the Vuludals-Elv falls ; to the right are the Ny-
Scetre (2686 it.'). The scenery becomes grander. The road is compar-
atively level. On the left is the Skridulaupbrce, with the Glitterhe
and Skridulaupen. In the distance, between this and the Kvitle-
naava (6263 ft.), is the high white ridge of the Jostedalshra. We
then pass the Heimdalsvand and Grotlidsvand.
18 Kil. (pay for 27) Grotlid, see p. 191. From Grotlid to Marok,
see pp. 191-193; to Hjelle (Strynsvand), see pp. 191, 190.
c. Boad from Otta to Aandalsnees, on the Romsdals-Fjord.
160 Kil., accomplished by skyds (skyds- station at the rail, station) in
2'/2-3 days. Cariole 29 kr., stolkjserre for 2 pers. 43 kr. ; carr. and pair
for 2 pers. 70, 3 pers. 80-90, 4 pers. 90-100 kr. — The scenery becomes
grander as we travel westwards. Finest parts for walking between Slue-
floten and Ormeim and between Flatmark and Aandalsnces.
The best nightquarfers are found at Laurgaard, Broendhongen, Tofte-
moen, Domaas, HoUa;t, Lesjevark, Melmen, Sluefloten, and Ormeim.
The road crosses the Laagen by the bridge mentioned at p. 65
and ascends to the N. through the Gudbrandsdal, on the left bank
of the river. Beyond the bridge over the Via, which descends from
to Aandalsncvs. DOMAAS. Map, p. 68.-9. R. 69
Luke Via at the foot of the Rondane (p. 75), aud forms the Daanofos
['thunder-fair) close to the road , we see the church of Sel to the
left. The curious wall of the churchyard is built of slate, and most
of the old tombstones are of 'klsebersten' or soapstone (saponite ).
The large and conspicuous mountain to the N., forming the back-
ground of the valley, is the Formokampen (4836 ft.). The valley
bends towards the N.W. We pass several deposits of debris, the
largest of which is near Laurgaard. We cross the river to Laur-
gaard, reached from Otta in alout I'/o hr.
15 Kil. Laurgaard or Laaryaard (1040 ft.; * Station, good
cuisine).
The road on whicli Laurgaard lies leads to the W. througli the valley
of the outlet of the SeUvand and crosses Ihe wooded ridge to (21 Kil.)
S0rum (p. 66). It cannot, however, be recommended.
A bridle-path, which diverge.s from the road to the right, a little
before it crosses the bridge in Ihe Rusten Kavine, leads to (11 Kil.) the
Hevringen-Scvte-r, fitted up as an inn, and owned by the station-master at
Laurgaard. The Formokampen (see above) is ascended hence.
We now return to the left bank of the Laagen. The road tra-
verses a *Ravine, which the river has formed in forcing its passage
through the rocky barrier of Rusten, descending in a series of
rapids and cataracts. The grandest point is at the '^Bridge which
carries the road to the right bank of the river, about 2 M. from
Laurgaard. The traveller should walk to the bridge, and order his
vehicle to meet him there. — Beyond the ravine we enter an Alpine
valley, in which cultivation almost ceases. About 3 Kil. from the
bridge is the new Rusten Hotel. On the right rises the Rustenfjeld,
on the left the Kjelen, a huge mountain-range between the Lesse
Valley and Vaage. As late as July large fields of snow are seen by
the road-side. The broad floor of the valley is covered with debris,
partly overgrown with stunted pines.
1'2 Kil. Braendhaugen (1555 ft.; Station, very fair), Brenn-
hauyen, or Br<rnnhatig (1 ^/i-i^/i hr.'s drive from Laurgaard) belongs
to the parish of Dovre. The Jetta (5425 ft.), rising to the W.,
affords a fine view of the Dovrefjeld, the Rondane, and Jotunheim.
We cross the Laagen and pass the church of Dovre (1550 ft.),
situated on an ancient moraine. The farms are nearly all on the
sunny side of the valley ('Solside'). A little beyond the church,
high up on the right, lies the once royal gaard of Tofte.
12 Kil. Toftemoen {*Fru Tofte s Hotel, good cuisine; li/o hr.'s
drive from Braendhaugen), an 'inhabited site' (Tuft) on a 'sandy
plain' (Mo). Comp. provincial English 'toft'.
The road ascends over huge deposits of detritus to the gaard
of Lid. Fine view of the deep ravine of the Laagen, with the Kjelen
rising above it. The peak in the distance is the Store Horungen.
11 Kil. Domaas, or Dom&aas (2160 ft.; *Hotel, R. 1 Vs, I)--, H. or
S. IV4 kr.), where the climate beiomes Alpine, lies at the diver-
gence of the Trondhjem route (R. 11) from ours, about 1^/4 hr.'s
drive from Toftemoen.
70 R.9. — Map,p.fi6. IVI0LMEN.
An excursion of 4-5 hrs. may be taken to the Haideg-Souler on the S.
bank of the Laagen, where a fine view of the Snehcetta (p. 72) is enjoyed.
The Romsdal road leads as far as Stuefloten through an un-
interesting mountain-valley, with a scanty growth of pines, birches,
and heather. Fine gaards on the slopes. The ascent is very gradual.
Below (left) is the bed of the Lesjevavd (1720 ft.), now drained.
12 Kil. Holaaker (1720 ft. ; fair station, moderate charges'),
li/2hr.'s drive from Domaas.
From Holaaker to lhe Avrsje-Hytte and thence to Lilhdal and Sundal,
pee p. 217; to the Aursj0-Hy1te and the Eikisdalsvand, see p. 213.
We now pass the Lesje-Kirke, and in 1^/4 hr. reach —
15 Kil. Holsaet (^Station, very fair; English spoken).
A bridle-path ascends from Holsset by the Lora-Elv to the Slorscetei
and the Nysceter (about 5 hrs.) , and crosses the mountains to the S. to
Aanstad (Skeal'ei\ p. E6), a long day's journey, which may be broken by
spending a night at the pleasant Nysfeter (see below).
The drive from Holsaet to Lesjevaerk takes I1/2 ln".
10 Kil. Lesjevserk (2065 ft.; Station, fair, a timber-built house
of the middle of the 18th cent.), so called from a deserted iron-
mine, lies at the S.E. end of the Lesjei-kogen-Vand (2050 ft.),
which forms the watershed between the Skager-Rack and the At-
lantic. To the former descends the Laagen, and to the latter the
Rauma, which flows out of the W. end of the lake, near the church
of Lesjeskogen, a place whence the whole district derives its name.
Near the church (II/2 l^r. from Lesjevaerk) is —
12 Kil. M«flmen (fair quarters), an angling and shooting resort.
The Stcrhei (6690 ft.), to the N., may be ascended hence in 6-8 hrs.
(there and back; with guide). The excursion to the Digervarde, to
the S. (see below), takes a whole day. Ed. 0. Melmen may be re-
commended as a guide.
From M0lmen to Skeaker (p. 66), in two days of 8 hrs. each. Walk-
ing difficult, as numerous brooks have to he forded; horse 12, guide
12 kr. Good weather indispensable. Provisions necessary.
1st Day. The path ascends slowly through a birch-wood in the Gren-
dal to the (1 hr.) Grenscctre (sseters of Enstad and Melmen). We descend
to the stream and cross several brooks and deposits of detritus. The
Alpine or Lapland character of the flora becomes very marked, and rein-
deer-moss, here eaten by the cows, is also abundant. After 2 hrs. more
the path ascends to the left. The scenery becomes exceedingly bleak and
wild. In IV2 hr. more we reach the top of the first hill ('Toppen'). The
Romsdal Mts. are conspicuous to the N.W. ; to the N.E. are the Svarth0i
and Storh0i, and farther distant the Snehfetta snow-range; to the S.W.,
the L0fth0i with its great glacier. A ride of 1 hr. to the S. over stony
ground brings us to the second 'Top', called the Digervarde, about 5250 ft.
in height, which commands a view of the whole Jotunheinj chain, from
the Glittertind (p. 173) and Galdh0pig (p. 158) to the Fanaraak (p. 160)
and beyond it.
We descend in about 2 hrs., partly over loose stones, to the Ny-
saeter (one double bed; coffee, milk, and bread form lhe only fare;
very clean).
2nd Day. Beyond the (1 hr.) Lorafjeld we pass several tarns and the
W. side of the larger FilUngsvand. The broad snow-clad mountain to the
left is the Loms-Horiing (p. 66), the W. end of which we reach in 3-4 hrs.
uioie. To the W. lies the Aursjfi (3395 ft.; not to be confounded with the
FOGSTUEN. Map, p. fid.— 10. R. 71
lake mentioned at p. 217), with a grand mountain-background. The path
next skirts the W. slope of the Horung for 1 hr., commanding the moun-
tain-range on the S. side of the Ottadal, including the Lomsegg, the Hest-
brsepigge, and the Tundredalskirkc, with the valley far below.
The descent to Skeaker takes a full hour (ascent 2 hrs.). The vege-
tation rapidly becomes richer (^Linttaea borealis abundant), and the tem-
perature rises. The path descends to the Aiii'a, the discharge of the Aursj0,
which forms a fine waterfall. Pines and then birches appear. The first
gaard on the slope of the valley is Bakke. Among the next is one on
the left with a tastefully carved portal. At the church of Skeaker the
greenish Olta is crossed by a long bridge (splendid view). We reach the
road near the skyds-station of Andvord (see p. 66).
Beyond Melmen, on the right, lies the gaard Einabu. An old
'bautasten', by the roadside, refers to King Olaf, 'the Saint', who
is said to have halted at this gaard on his flight in 1029 (p. xlviii).
Farther on the road skirts the Rauma. The scenery becomes more
imposing. In the distance are the mountains of the Romsdal.
13 Kil. Stuefloten [i^/^ hr.), see p. 210. The remaining stations
are (10 Kil. [pay for 11]; lV4lir.) Ormeim, (11 Kil.; lV4lir.) Flat-
mark, (12 Kil.; 1 l/o br.l Horghehn, and (14 Kil.; I3/4 hr.) Aandals-
nas. Details, see pp. 209-207. This part of the route, especially
beyond Flatmark, will amply repay the pedestrian.
10. From Domaas in the Gudbrandsdal over the
Dovrefjeld to Steren (Trondlijem).
155 Kil. Ro.AD , with fast staticins, less used since the opening,
of the railway (R. 11). Travellers from Molde who combine this route
with a visit to the Romsdal may easily reach Trondhjem in four days :
1st, to Siueflolen (p. 210); 2nd, to Domaas; 3rd, to Awie; 4th, to Sleren,
and in the evening by train to Tiondhjem.
Domaas, see p. 69. The Trondhjem road diverges to the N. from
the Gudbrandsdal, and ascends rapidly through moor and bog, with
stunted pines, to the Dovrefjeld, which separates Southern (Senden-
fjeldske) from Northern Norway (Nordenfjeldske Norge). Grand view
of the mountains, as we look back. In about 1 hr. we reach the
plateau. The road crosses the Fogsaa, an affluent of the Glommen.
To the left are extensive mountain-plains, where the Driva, which
descends to Sundal, takes its rise.
On the FogHuhe (5840 ft. ; ascent 5 hrs. there and back ; view
of Jotunheim, Sneh;ettan, and Rondane) we observe three saeters
on the right and others to the left. To the N. rise the Hundsje and
Skreda Fjelds, and beyond them the Snehaita (p. 72), the snow and
glacier of whose W. basin ('Botn') are distinctly visible.
10 Kil. (pay for 11 in this direction) Fogstuen or Foksluen
(3120 ft. ; Ant. Solherg's Inn, with 45 beds, very fair, often fre-
quented for a stay of some duration), in a grand but solitary situa-
tion, is one of the four 'Fjeldstuer', or mountain-inns, founded by
government on the Dovrefjeld for the use of travellers so far back
as 1107-10. The tenants receive an annual subsidy, and are bound
72 Route 10. — Map, p. 66. KONGSVOLD. From Domaas
to keep the roads open in winter and to forward tlie mails. The
Fokstue is now private property. The other three 'Fjeldstuer',
Jerkin, Kongsvold, and Drivstuen, belong to the state.
From Fogstuen the old road, now disused, crosses the loftj' Hard-
bal-ke (3750 ft.) direct to Toftemoen (p. 69j. — L. von Such, who travelled
by this route at the end of April (i.e. in winter) writes: 'The lofty pyramid
of the SnehEetta then came in sight amidst the haze, several miles to the
north. So rises Mont Blanc, seen from the Brevent, from its mantle of ice.
It is not a mere mountain, but a mountain on a mountain — a great and
sublime apparition commanding the whole of this solitude'.
The road crosses the Fogsaa and passes several lakes, beyond
which the stream is called the Folda. On the right are the Blaaheer.
We pass the Vardesje (2dSb ft.) ; to the right, farther on, are several
sajters. The road leaves the valley of the Folda and ascends to —
21 Kil. Jerkin or Hjerkin (3140 ft. ; Jerkin's Sanatorium, fre-
quented in winter by snowshoers, R. l^/o, D. 2, B. or S. l^/a kr.),
where our road joins the Foldal road (p. 76). Interesting walk to
the (1 hr.) Jerkinshe, the highest point on the old road (4105 ft. ;
not recommended for walkers), commanding a view of the Kollen,
Rondane, and Jotunheim. The only point from which the Snehaetta
is visible is the hill to the W. of Jerkinsher, crowned by a 'varde'.
Snehaettan (7630 ft.; 'snow-hat'), the sixth in height among the moun-
tains in Norway, is best ascended from Jerkin (12-14 hrs. there and back;
guide 4'/2, horse G'/z kr. ; provisions necessary; settled weather indispens-
able). The ascent was lirst made by Esmark at the end of last century.
For 3-4 hrs. we ride across a rocky and mossy tract, crossing several tor-
rents, to the Johan Jerkinshytte, known as Reinheim (12 beds ; key at Jerkin).
Lastly 2-3 hrs. over snow and ice. In clear weather (rare on the Dovre-
fjeld) the view is very extensive in every direction, but deficient in
picturesqueness, and far inferior to that from the Galdh^pig (p. 158). The
chief object of interest is the finely shaped mountain itself, composed of
mica-slate.
The road ascends a hill to the W., then descends gradually to
the Svonaa, the course of which it now follows. Striking view
of the Snehaetta, which looks quite near. The road crosses the
boundary between the Stifts of Hamar and Trondhjem, and gradu-
ally descends, past the little gaard of Grenbakken (on the left),
into the valley of the Driva, formed by the union of the Knld-
vella and the Svonaa.
10 Kil. (pay for 13, in the opposite direction for 14) Kongsvold
(2950 ft.; Station, good, often crowded in summer) is another good
starting-point for the ascent of Snehaettan and for that of the
Knutshe (5565 ft.; 3 hrs.; similar view), to the N.E., which is
botanically interesting.
The road now enters a narrow ravine enclosed by huge rocks,
through which the Driva careers headlong. Fine Alpine flora. The
old road ('Vaarstien') leads up and down hill on the right bank.
15 Kil. Drivstuen (2190 ft. ; Station, very fair). The valley ex-
pands; vegetation becomes richer; first the pine, then the birch,
and later a few fields of barley and potatoes appear. Scenery still
grand. We pass the mouth of the Amnots-Elv on the left, and soon
to Steren. BJERKAKER. 10. Route. 73
cross the Driva by a new bridge. A little farther on, about 9 Kil.
from Driv.stuen, and a few paces from the road, is a remarkable
gorge of the Driva called *Magalaupet (^^guWy^). The road, which has
lately been much improved, descends to a fertile zone of the valley.
12 Kil. (pay for 17j Rise (well spoken ofj, near the mouth of
the Vinstra, descending from the right. The Dovrefjeld termin-
ates at —
10 Kil. Aune (1770 ft. ; Station, very fair, R. IV4-IV2. B. or
S. 11/4 kr., D. 1 kr. 60 ».), also called Ny-Aune or Ny-0vne. The
route to the Suudal (Christiansund, Molde ; R. 28) here diverges
from that to Trondhjem. To the W., on the Sundal road, we see
the church of Opdal, with a pointed spire. The snow-capped moun-
tain beyond is the multi-peaked Horn (p. 218). To the E. is tlie
AUinandbjerg.
The Trondhjem road quits the valley of the Driva and becomes
uninteresting. It follows the Byna and crosses the low watershed
between that stream and the 0rkla, the valley of which latter it
traverses. We get a last glimpse of Snehaettan. Beyond (I'/ohr.) —
14 Kil. Stuen, or Nystuen (fair station), the road descends to
the 0rkla. We cross the Gisna, which here unites with the 0rkla,
forming a line waterfall. Then an ascent to (1V4~1V2 ^^-^ —
11 Kil. Austbjerg or Vlsbjerg (1365 ft. ; well spoken of).
From Austbjerg to T/jns^t, 72 Kil., a good road, with fast stations,
through meadows and forests, with line views, an interesting route
from the J0rkladal to the Glommendal. It passes the church of Inset,
runs high above the Jr^rkla Ravine, crosses the foaming Naven (Nccva) at
a copper-foundry with large chimneys, and reaches (11 Kil.) Naeverdal. The
river forms many rapids. — 13 Kil. (pay for 17, but not in the reverse
direction) Frengstad. We then pass the church of Koikne, with its sub-
stantial gaards (birthplace of B. Bj^rnson, the poet), and cross the brawling
Jen-Elv. The road ascends high on the right bank of this stream to
(14 Kil., pay for 17) Uteen i Kvikne. Soon after we cross the low watershed
and descend to the Tennen, which tlows through the Stubs0 (right) and
enters the Glommen at T^nsffit. — 14 Kil. (pay f<ir 17) Nylreen (good
quarters at a pleasant gaard). The road leads across the T^nnen to
(10 Kil., pay for 12) Fosbakken, where we have a line view of the jfefsterdal
Mts. — 14 Kil. (pay tor 17) Ujernsmoeii i Temsal (p. 76).
Still ascending, and traversing beautiful forest, the road skirts
the deep *y^iyme of the 0rkla. Fine views, particularly of the
snow-mouutains to the S.W.
12 Kil. Bjerkaker or Birkakcr (1325 ft.; fair quarters) lies on
the watershed between the 0rkla and the Gula.
Fkom liJEKKAKER TO 0RKEDALS)i(KEN, 74 Ki)., a road with fast stations.
The road descends in curves to the J0frkla (780 ft.) and follows its right
bank, passing several gaards. About 2/4 br.'s drive from Bjerkaker, to
the left, lies Gaard Hoel, where a famous drinking-horn is still shown,
presented by Christian V., out of which Charles XIV. John (Bernadotte),
Oscar I., and Charles XV. respectively drank when on their way to be
crowned at Trondhjem. Observe the huge birch-tree, 10 ft. in circum-
' ference. 14 Kil. Ilaarstad (720 ft.). 14 Kil. Qrut. 11 Kil. Kalstad i Mel-
dalen, from which a road leads by Garherg and Foseide to Surendals/irren
(p. 219). Our road passes Lgkkens Kobbervwrk, crosses the jBfrkla, and
next reaches (16 Kil.) Aarlivold. Hence to (12 Kil.) Bak and (S Kil.) 0rke-
dalaeien, see \>. 219.
74 Route 11. ELVERUM. From Christ! ania
The load traverses the munteresting iSolcnedal and follows the
course of the Igla, and then that of the Stavilla, which after
its union with the Hauka takes the name of Sokna.
12 Kil. Garli or Garlien [1355 ft. ; good station) lies on a height
to the left. After crossing the Igla the road enters a picturesque rav-
ine, in which the Sokna forms waterfalls and drives mills ('Kvsern-
hus'). Beyond the church of Soknedalen (870 ft.) we reach —
10 Kil. (pay for 11, in the reverse direction for 13) Prasthus
(700 ft.; fair quarters). The road follows the narrow, flr-clad valley
of the Sokna, first on the right, then on the left bank of the stream.
It passes near the church of Steren (to the right, on the opposite
hank), crosses an elevation, and reaches the valley of the Ovla.
14Kil. Steren oxEngen iSi^rcn (2 10 ft.), a station on the Trond-
lijem Railway (p. 77).
11. From Christiania to Trondhjem by Railway.
562 Kil. (350 M.). Railway {Nonthnncrne, starting at the m.iin rail.
statidn. PI. F, 4). In summer one through-train daily, in 171/4 hrs., stop-
ping at 14 only out of 68 stations (fares 43 kr. 70, 26 kr. 60, 15 kr. 30 0. ;
sleeping-berth , either first-class or second-class, 3 kr. extra ; 56 lbs. of
luggage free). Another train stops for the night at (14 hrs.) Temcct, arriv-
ing in (11 lirs.) Trondhjem next day (fares 17 kr. 80, 10 kr. 90 0. ; no first
class). Tickets for the slow train are available for the express on payment
of the difTerence. In order to secure good rooms at TfJnsset it is advisable to
write or telegraph beforehand. Hot meals are provided for express pass-
engers at Hamar only (I'/z kr. ; diners help themselves), for travellers
by ordinary train at Hamar and at Singfaas (same charge). At the other
refreshment-rooms nothing can be had except sandwiches (100.), beer (25 ff.
per pint bottle), tea, and the like.
The best views between Hamar and Eena are to the right; thence to
Trondhjem, to the left. The last part of the journey, especially beyond
JRgTros, is the finest. The traveller may go to Eidsvold by early train,
take the steamer to Hamar., and there join the express in the afternoon
(comp. p. 60).
From Christiania to (126 Kil.) Hamar, see pp. 60, 61. We
change carriages, and go on by the narrow-gauge Reros Railway
(engage sleeping-herth).
The train gradually ascends through the lonely wooded regions
of Hedemarken. Scenery uninteresting at first. Aaker, a small stop-
ping-place, is passed. 131 Kil. Hjellum; 135 Kil. Ilseng; 139 Kil.
Hersand (570 ft.). Fine view of the Skreidfjeld (p. 61), to the
S.W. of Lake Mjesen. 141 Kil. Aadalsbrug. Beyond (144 Kil.)
Leiten (760 ft.) we pass the drilling-ground of Terningmoen.
158 Kil. Elverum (610 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; Central Hotel,
St. Olaf's Hotel, i/o M. from the rail, station, beyond the river, both
very fair) is the first station in the valley of the Glommen, which the
train ascends to Reros.
The peasantry of 0sterdalen, the district traversed by the
Glommen and its affluents, are among the richest in Norway, some
of their forest-estates extending to many square miles. The value
to Trondhjem. KOPPANG. 11. Route 75
of tlieir timber Las risen greatly siucc the couipletiou of tlie railway.
Some of their gaards are comfortably and even luxuriously fitted
up, but they still adhere with pride to their original name of
peasants (^'Gaardbruger' ; sometimes parodied as 'Sofabender').
The timber is felled in autumn and winter, the hardy wood-
cutters often spending weeks in the forest, in spite of the intense
cold, and passing the night in wretched huts. The characteristic
form of the old houses of the district, with their open roofs and tall
chimneys, has been retained in many of the railway-buildings.
164 Kil. Grundset ((i40ft.); 171 Kil. 0xna (666 ft.). Near
(184 Kil.) Aasta (740 ft.) the train crosses the river of that name.
190 Kil. Rena (735 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant), on the right bank of the
Glommen, not far from the church of Aamot, near which are several
inns. Near (204 Kil.) Stenviken (785 ft.) the train crosses the Glom-
men by a long bridge, and now follows the E. bank (views to the left ).
214 Kil. Ophiis (805 ft.). Here, and farther on, the Glommen forms
lake-like expansions. 224 Kil. Rasten (840 ft.) ; 237 Kil. Stai (860 ft.).
The scenery assumes a more mountainous character. Fine view of
the floor of the valley, intersected by the river in many branches.
247 Kil. Koppang(915ft.; Rail. Restaurant; *Hansen, 2min. to
the left of the station-exit; Jernbane Hotel, opposite the station;
Koppang Hotel) lies on a height above the river. To the W., rising
above the forests, are high mountains, carpeted with yellow moss
(Lecidea geographica).
The train now runs through wood, high above the Glommen, and
crosses two bridges. Fine views towards the S. The mountains
increase in height, and the valley contracts. Bjeraanmsset, a small
stopping-place.
272 Kil. Atna (1170 ft.; Fjeldvang's Hotel, clean and com-
fortable), on the left (E.) bank of the Glommen. A ferry (10 min.
from the rail, station) crosses the river to Atneosen (skyds-station ;
good quarters), at the mouth of the Atne-Elv.
Visitors to the Rondane will find a competent guide in Ole Pedersen
Moen (i{ S0ndre Moen, near Brtcnden, on the Atnepj^. — From Atneosen
a new road (with slow stations; horses, as well as dinner at Solligaarden,
ordered by telephone from Atneosen) ascends the right banlc of the Atne-
Klv, crossing the stream at Hira, to (22 Kil.) Storbakmoen. [From Hira a
road leads to the left to the Storfjeld- Heater Sanaiorinm (18 Kil. from Atna;
well spoken of).] Our road next leads to (26 Kil.) Solligaarden, near the
church of Sollien, and to (23 Kil.) Utti, at the E. end of the Atne-Sje
(2296 ft.). Imposing view of the chief peaks of the Rondane : the Hegroiid
(6690 ft.), the Stiigfjeld (6230 ft.), and the Hundvashegda (6890 ft). These
peaks may be ascended from ib.& Musvold- Smler [gi\u^ quarters), which we
reach by crossing the lake by water-.«kyds (2-4 hrs.) and walking for about
IV2 hr. more. The Rondeslot (7100 ft.), the highest of the Kondane moun-
tains, is also ascended from this sseter, but a guide is indispensable (steep
and fatigning route thronj^h the Lcinglupdul and over the Hugrond ; 5-6 hrs.).
— From the Jlusvold-Seeter a path leads across the hills to \he Bjernhvll-
Sater (good quarters) and the (6-7 hrs.) Mytsu-Swfer, whence we can reach
Vimira in the (iudbrandsdal in 3-4 hrs. (see p. 64).
285 Kil. Hanestad (1250 ft.). On the opposite bank rises the
76 Route 11. \10ROS. From Christiania
Imposiug Gretlinybratten (3820 ft.). The train skirts the river, with
a view of high hills to the N., and again enters monotonous wood.
At (304 Kil.) Barkald (1485 ft.) the Glommen forms the Barkaldfos.
A visit from Barkald to the curious gort;e of Jutulhugget takes about
3 hrs. The gorge extends from the Tyldal on the E. to a point about l'/4 M.
from the Glommen on the W., where it suddenly ends in a chaos of pre-
cipitous cliffs. It is about 650 ft. deep, and its lowest point lies about 130 ft.
below the Glommen. The !:orge was formed, according to Iradition, by
the attempt of a giant to divert the Glommen into the Kendal.
324 Kil. Lille -Elvedal (1660 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant; Ole Hek-
toen's Hotel, Dahlie's Hotel, both close by and well spoken of), at
the entrance to the Foldal (see b.low). A bridge crosses the
Glommen here.
The Road tukougu the Foldal to Jekkin ofl'ers the shortest approach
from Christiania to the Sundal and Nordm0re. — 32 Kil. Ui/haugen, with
a view of the Rondane. — From (18 Kil.) Krokhaugen (fair station) a route
leads to the S. to the Atnevand and the Rondane (see p. 75). 17 Kil. Dalen;
splendid view of Sneha'ltan. — 17 Kil. Jerkin (p. 72). Thence via Kong.s-
vold, Drivstuen, Rise, and Auiie t i the Sundal, see pp. 72, 73.
The train skirts the base of the Tronfjeld (5610 ft.), a moun-
tain composed of gabbro and serpentine, which may be ascended
from Lille-Elvedal (carriage-road nearly the whole way). Fine
view of it, as we look back. — 337 Kil. Auma (1600 ft.). Dreary
scenery.
347 Kil. Tflfnsset (1620 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant ; Jernbane Hotel;
Schulrud's Hotel) lies near the confluence of the Tenna and the
Glommen, chiefly on the right bank of the latter. It is the centre
of the N. 0sterdal , which formerly belonged to the Stift of
Trondhjem. The former 'Stavekirke', dating from 1210, has dis-
appeared; the present church is modern.
From T^nsat to Kvikne and Ausibjevg, see p. 73.
The line traverses the extensive Godtlandsmyr. To the S.W.,
on the right side of the Tronfjeld, rise the Rdndane (p. 75).
358 Kil. Telnas (1630 ft.). The train ascends more rapidly.
Pasturage now takes the place of tilled fields. — 368 Kil. Tolgen
(1685 ft.), in an exposed situation. To the right, the Hummelfjeld
(5050 ft.). The vegetation assumes a thoroughly Alpine character.
385 Kil. Os (1975 ft.); the village lies on a slope (Lid) on the
opposite bank. The train crosses the Nera, traverses an extensive
moor, and reaches —
399 Kil. (247 M.) R«ros or Reraas (2060 ft. ; Fahlstrem's Hotel,
near the rail, station, very fair, R. 1, B. 1, D. li/okr. ; Mad.
Larsen's Hotel; *Rail. Restaurant ; halt of 6-10 min.), with 1800 in-
hab., situated on a dreary and inclement plateau. The town was
founded in 1646, after the discovery of the copper-mines. It lies
on the Hitter-Elv, while the Glommen, descending from the Aur-
sund-Sj£i (22&b ft.) , flows round the W. side of the town. The
curious timber houses are roofed with turf; the large church dates
from 1780. Vast expanses of turf, bordered with extensive ter-
races of glai-ial detritus and saml -hills, where the dwarf-birch
to Trondhjem. ST0REN. 11. Route. 77
alone thrives, have been converted into pastures by careful man-
uring. Corn does not ripen, and the forest is gone. Cattle-breeding
is the only resource of the inhabitants, apart from the mines.
The mines yield about 500 tdns of pure copper annually. The chief
mines are Storvarts Gvnhe, 271G ft. abiive the sea-level, 9Kil. to theN.E..
the ore of which yields 8 per cent of copper; near it, Ntj Solskins Grube;
to the N.W., 14 Kil., Kongens Grube, yieldin'j: 4 per cent of copper; Muy
Ovube, 22 Kil. distant. The mining is carried on by electricity, furnished
by the Kuraaffos, at the outflow of the Aursund-^■and (see below). The
smelting-works are the Beros Hytle, the Dragaas Ilyite at Aalen., and the
Lovisa JJi/tle at LiUe-Elvedal.
From R0ros we may drive by skyds, via (17 Kil.) Jensvold and (IS Kil.)
Skotgaarden on theAursund-Vond, to visit (not without privations) a settle-
ment of nomadic Lapps. — Annther skyds-road leads to the S.E., by (10 Kil.)
Scetern i Reroa and (17 Kil.) Langm, to (5 Kil.) Senderviken on theFsemund-
Sj0 (about 2300 ft. ; 79 sq. 31. in area, and 425 ft. deep) on which a steauici-
plies (hotel at the S. end of the lake). Thence to Sweden, see p. 376.
Beyond Reros the train passes the Storskarven on the right, and
traverses a bleak plateau. 406 Kil. Nypladsen (2055 ft.). Heaps of
copper ore (Kohhermalm) generally lie at the station. A little farther
on is the copper-coloured site of an old furnace. We now cross the
turbulent Glommen. Beyond (412 Kil.) Jensvold (2090 ft.) the
train crosses large expanses of debris. A stone to the left marks the
liighest point of the railway (2200 ft.), on the watershed between
the Glommen and the Giila, whicli descends to the Trondhjems-
Fjord. The train follows the valley of the latter to Melhus.
420 Kil. Tyvold (2180 ft.). — The train descends circuitously
on the slope of the broad and wooded basin of the Gula. Near
(432 Kil.) Reitan (1780 ft.) is the KUllngdalen Mine, the copper
pyrites of which is brought to the railway by a wire-rope line. On
the left are several old gaards. Below lies the church of Hov,
442 Kil. Eidet (1380 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant). Below it lies a cop-
per-foundry. A very picturesque part of the line begins here. The
train skirts the rocks of Dreilierne (seven short tunnels) and enters
the ravine of the Dreia, which it crosses by a lofty bridge. In the
<'uttings wc distinguish first the clay- slate, and afterwards the
granite and gneiss formations. 454 Kil. Holtaalen (985 ft.), with
a new church, prettily situated. The costume of the peasantry here
usually consists of a red jacket, leathern breeches, and a 'tophue'
or peaked woollen cap. We now descend the valley of the Gula to
(463 Kil.) Langlete (770 ft.) and (472 Kil.) Reitsteen (670 ft.).
480 Kil. Singsaas (575 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant), with a bridge
over the Gula. Large terraces of de'bris to the left mark the en-
trance of the Forradal. On the left, a line waterfall. — 486 Kil.
Bjergen (455 ft.). Three short tunnels. Kotseien, a stopping-place.
499 Kil. Rogticps (300 ft.), with a bridge over the Gula. A little
above Steren, to the left, is the church mentioned on p. 74, at the
confluence of the Sokna and the Gula. We cross the Gula.
510 Kil. Sti&ren (290 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; Steven's Hotel, with
skyds-station, at the rail, station; Hot. Norye) is pleasantly situated
78 Route 12. FETSDND.
1 M. below the mouth of the Sokna, along which the Dovrefjeld
road ascends (R. 10). The beautiful rocky valley is well cultivated
at places, and partly wooded.
517 Kil. Hovln (170 ft.). The train crosses the liver, which
here forms the Oulefos on the left and dashes through its narrow
channel. To the right is the church of Horrig. 524 Kil. Lundemo
(108 ft.); 530 Kil. Ler (80 ft.). The valley expands. The train
crosses a tributary of the Gula twice and ascends a little. 535 Kil.
/(Turtai (160 ft.). The train now descends; view to the left. 538 Kil.
Seberg (100 ft.). 541 Kil. Melhus (75 ft.), with a finely situated
new church (to the right). Numerous river-terraces are passed.
We now quit the Gula, which turns to the N.W. and flows into
the Gulosen, a bay of the 0rkedalsfjord (an arm of the Trond-
hjems-Fjord). The train turns to the N.E. and crosses the hill
between the Gula and the Nid, which falls into the fjord at Trond-
hjem. At (546 Kil.) Nypan (230 ft.) we get a glimpse of the 0r-
kedalsfjord, and of a snowy mountain in the distance. 551 Kil.
Heimdal (465 ft.), with the country villas of several Trondhjem
merchants. — We now descend for the last time, passing numerous
farms. At the stopping-place Selsbcek we reach the Nid-Elv, near
the Lille Lerfos (to the right; p. 225), and then follow its left
bank, threading a tunnel. Lastly (comp. Map, p. 232) a short
tunnel under the suburb of Ihlen , beyond which we reach the
harbour and the station of —
562 Kil. (350 M.) Trondhjem (p. 219).
12. From Christiania by Railway to Charlottenberg
(afzd Stockholm).
143 Kil. (89 M.). Railway in 41/2-574 hrs. (fares 9 kr. 30, 7 kr. 20,
4 kr. 40 91.). In summer one through-train runs daily between Christiania
and Stoekhiilm wlihout change in W-j-i hrs. Fares 43 kr. 5, 33 kr. 50 9i.\
1st class sleeping-berth 5 kr. (comp. p. 3r2), 2nd class berth (not obligatory;
on application to station-master) 3 kr.
From Christiania to (21 Kil.) Lillestremmen, see p. 60. The
Eidsvold line (p. 60) diverges here to the N. ; the Charlottenburg
train runs towards the S.E. , through less interesting scenery.
Lillestremmen lies on the N.W. bay, called Draget, of Lake 0ieren
(830 ft.), a long basin of the Glommen.
29 Kil. Fetsund, where the train crosses the broad Glomy;ten,
just above its influx into Lake J&ieren. Vast quantities of timber
enter the lake here every spring on their way down to Sarpsborg
andFredrikstad. The train now follows the E. (left) bank of the
river, which forms cataracts at places , all the way to Kongs-
vinger. — 37 Kil. Serumsanden ; 40 Kil. Bingsfors, junction of a
narrow-gauge railway to (54 Kil.; ^^/ohrs.) Skidlerud (steamboat
to Tistedalen and Fredrikshald, see p. 83). 42 Kil. Blakjer or
Blaker; 49 Kil. Haga; 58 Kil. Aarncps [Rail. Restaurant). At N(V3',
SKI. 13. Route. 79
3'/2 *!• to the N., the Vormen, descending from Lake Mjesen (p. 61),
falls into the Glommen. 67 Kil. Satersteen; 73 Kil. Disenaaen, a
halting-place; 79 Kil. iS&arrKES, prettily situated; 87 Kil. /Sander ;
92 Kil. Galterud.
100 Kil. Kongsvinger (480 ft.; *Rail. Restaurant^ -with rooms
to let). The small town, with 1500 inhat., lies on the right bank
of the Glommen, fully 1 M. from the station. The Fortress (Fffsi-
ning; 770 ft.), erected in 1683. but now dismantled, played an
important part in the wars between Sweden and Norway (tine Yiew).
From Kongsvinger a branch-line ('Sol^rbane''; cO Kil., in 40 min.) runs
to Fliten, at tbe month of a tributary of the Glommen.
The railway turns to the S.E. and quits the Glommen. The
Vingerse (475 ft.) and the long lakes near Aabogen and elsewhere
are basins of a now deserted channel of the Glommen, which
channel is followed by the railway (comp. p. 312).
112 Kil. Aabogen, 122 Kil. Eidsskog, 127 Kil. Skotterud, 133
Kil. Magnor, all with extensive timber-yards, the last also with
various factories. The train quits tbe district of Vinger, in which
Kongsvinger lies, a little beyond Magnor, and crosses the Swedish
frontier.
143 Kil. (89 M.) Charlottenberg , the first station in Sweden,
and thence to Stockholm, see R. 48.
13. From Christiania to Gotenburg by Railway.
356 Kil. {221 M.). R.ulwat. Frum Christiania to Korme, in b^ji-S^ji hrs. ;
thence to Gotenburg in 6 hrs. mure, with change (if carriages at ilelleiud
(fares to Fredrikfhald 8 kr., 6 kr., 3 kr. 90 0.; thence to Gotenburg 16 kr. 6,
9 kr. 45 0. ; night-train 11 kr. 60, 8 kr. 20, 5 kr. 50 0.). From Christiania
to Gotenburg one through day-express (going on to Malmo) in 12 hrs.
(fares 26 kr. 75, 20 kr. 35, 13 kr. 85 0.) and one through night-express (with
sieeping-berthg) in 10 hrs. (fares 30 kr. 35, 22 kr. 55, 15 kr. 45 0.). Railway
restaurants are few and far between.
The railway-journey itself is uninteresting, hut the traveller should
stop at Sarp.'borg, FredrHshcild , and TroUlidttan, gtiing on in each case
l)y the next train , and spending one night on the way if necessary.
Steamers run daily from Moss, Fredrikstad, and Fredrikshald to Goten-
burg. Travellers in the reverse direction ,'hould leave the railway at Moss
and take one of the local steamers up the beautiful fjord to Christiania.
Christiania, see p. 9. (As far as Moss. comp. Map, p. 22.)
The train rounds the suburb of Oslo and skirts the base of the
Ekeberg (p. 20) , affording a line retrospect of tho town. From
(4 Kil.) B(Tkkel<iget we survey the islands and villas of the Orm-
sund. The train skirts the Bundefjord , passing many country
houses. 8 Kil. Ljan (Freken Hammer's Pension, finely situated,
85-100 kr. per month). The train ascends to (18 Kil.) Oppegaard
(320 ft.). To the right is Nasodden, a large peninsula separating
the Christiania Fjord from tbe Hnndefjord. — 24 Kil. Ski (420 ft. ;
Roil. Restaurant^.
80 Route 13. FREDRIKSTAD. From Christiania
From Ski to Saktsbokg, 81 Kil., by the 'jB^stre Linie', uninteresting.
— 6Kil. Kraakstad; 13 Kil. Tortiter; 21Kil. Spydeherg. The line then crosses
the brnad Glommen. — 29 Kil. Askim (394 ft.), with nickel-mines. The
Glommen Flertncitii Works here, using four falls formed by the Olommen
at Kykkelsnid and Ilrerve, are, perhaps, the largest in Europe (60,(.)CK) horsc-
jiower, conveyed as far as Christiania). — 35 Kil. Slitu; 40 Kil. Myien;
45 Kil. Eidsberg; 55 Kil. Rakkesiad; 61 Kil. Gautistad; 73 Kil. Ise. The train
then runs along the Aipeit, and, crossing the Glommen by the bridge
mentioned at p. 81, reaches (81 Kil.) Sarpsborg (p. 81).
Near (32 Kil.) Aas is an agricultural school. 39 Kil. Vesthy ;
48 Kil. Sorter, station for Soon, a sea-batliing place. The train now
descends to the fjord and skirts the picturesque Mossesund, the
strait between Moss and the Hjelle.
60 Kil. Moss (Rail. Restaurant ; Arnesens Hotel, l/-? M. from the
rail, station, R. 2-21/2, B. 1-1 i/o, D. 2-21/2, S. 1 1/2 kr., very fair; Brit,
vice-consul and Lloyd's agent, Mr. J. Vogt), a thriving town of 8900
inhab., lies on a bay of the Christiania Fjord. The convention of
14th Aug., 1814, in conformity with which Norway ceased to oppose
the union with Sweden, was signed here (p. Ixxvii). The station is
on the S. side of the town, 5 uiin. from the steamboat-pier on the
Hjelle, to Avhich a bridge crosses. Opposite the church is an old
churchyard, with tombstones of the 18th cent., now a promenade.
On the Hjelle are several pretty villas, the Jeleens Sanatorium
( 90-125 kr. per month), and the orphanage of Orkered.
Steamers ply between Christiania and Moss several times daily , in
4 hrs. A great part of their coiirse lies between the Hjell« and the mainland.
Next stations : Dilling, Rygge, Raade, Onse. The train crosses
the Kjelbergs-Elv, and passes through a tunnel.
94 Kil. Fredrikstad. — Hotels. Olsen's Hotel, more than 1 JI.
from the station, R. 11/2-4 kr., B. 80 0., D. (2 p.m.) 2, S. iV2 kr. •, Skandi-
NAViE, near the pier, K. 2-3'/l': B. V-i-lVs, D. (1 30 p.m.) 2, S. l'/^ kr., both
with electric light and baths. — Railway Restaurant. — British Vice- Consul
and Lloyd^s Agent, Mr. C. Thiis.
Fredrikstad, a town with 14,500 inhab., lies on the Christiania
Fjord, at the mouth of the Glommen, on which the timber of
Osterdalen (p. 74), the most richly wooded district in Norway, is
floated down to the sea. The town owes its importance to its timber-
trade with Germany, Holland, France, etc. The busiest quarter is
the Forstad, on the W. bank of the river, with the railway-station,
a large new church, a theatre, and the 'Forlystelsehus Valhalla',
a popular place of amusement. The old town on the left bank was
founded by King Frederick II. in 1570, and was once strongly
fortified. A steam-ferry plies between these two parts of the town.
About 7 Kil. to the E. of Fredrikstad, and 6 Kil. to theS. of Sannesund,
lies Torsekilen or Hundehuiulen, a pleasant sea-bathing place. — To the W.
of Fredrikstad lies the island of Ilanke (p. 8).
Beyond Fredrikstad we pass on the left some curiously worn
rocks. Pleasant views of the broad river. The train crosses an arm
of the Glommen. The banks are covered with factories, timber
yards, and brick-fields. 103 Kil. Greaker. The train quits the
JO,
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_ ^j !rl^ Ir 3^ ® VJ !iV\ *! laumfabrik nBarregaaidSuIfit-
ZHoUe Off J'apirfalrrU-
i ■■ 26.100
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to (iotenbary. rREDRIKSHALD. 13. liovte. 81
Glommen. 106 Kil. Sannesund, station for the S. port of Sarps-
borg, with the quay of the Fredrikshald steamers.
109 Kil. Sarpsborg ( Victoria Hotel ; Aarsland' s Hotel ; Christian-
sen's Hotel)^ a town of GSOOinhal)., on the left bank of the Glommen,
was founded in 1840 on the site of an ancient town destroyed in
1567. To the N. of the town the river forms the lake of Glengshelen^
and to the S.E. the huge *Sarpsfos, which affords water-power to
numerous saw-mills, paper and cellulose factories, etc. At Hafslund,
on the left bank of the river, is an electric plant, which furnishes
power to the factories between this point and Fredrikstad.
A few hours suffice to visit the fall. From the station we either
follow the road through the town, or turn immediately to the left,
and then to the right, by a path which rejoins the road. The road
then leads under the railway and with it crosses the fall by a
Suspension Bridge (see p. 80). The finest point of view on the
right bank is a rocky projection, to reach which we descend to the
right on this side of the bridge. The scene is, however, more im-
posing from the left bank, where the points of view are protected
by railings. We descend from the bridge, and cross the channel
('Teminer-Rende') for the descent of the sawn wood. (The dizzy
path along the Temmer-Rende is prohibited.) The huge volume
of water, 116 ft. in width, falls from a height of 74 ft. More than
one-third of all the timber exported from Norway is floated seaward
on the Glommen (upwards of 5,000,000 logs annually; comp. p. 24).
In the winter of 1702 a portion of the right bank, 2000 ft. long
and 1300 ft. broad, on which lay a large farm-house, having been
gradually undermined by the water, fell into the river with all its
inmates and cattle. — From Sarpsborg to Ski, see p. 79.
The train now crosses the Glommen by a lofty bridge , borne
by the four piers of the suspension-bridge above mentioned, and
overlooking the Sarpsfos to the right. 119 Kil. Skjeberg (128 ft.),
in a marshy hollow; 131 Kil. Berg (230 ft.). Woods and patches
of arable land ('Smaa-Lene') alternate with marshes and meadows.
Farther on the train reaches the Idefjord, and affords a view of
the Brate. On the fjord are some large marble-polishing works,
the marble for which comes from Fuske, near Bode (p. 242). Sev-
eral tunnels. The train passes between the tjord on the right
and a rocky height on the left. It then skirts the grounds of the
Villa Red (PI. A, 2; visitors admitted) and crosses the Tistedals-Elv.
137 Kil. Fredrikshald. — Hotels. •Grand-Hotel, at the station
(I'l. C, 3). with baths ami electric liyht, R. 2-3, B. l-lV'a, D. 2-3, S. 1V2-2 kr. ;
"ScHULTz's Hotel (PI. b; D. 3), Kirkestr»de, with electric light, K. S'/r
31/2 kr., B. SO0., D. (? p.m.) 2, S. I'/a kr., quiet, with garden; Ivebskn's
Hotel, very fair, R. 1-2, B. 1, D. (2 p.m.) l'/:. S. 1 kr. — Rail. Restaurant.
Steamers to Stromttad once or twice daily (fare IV2 or 1 kr.) ; to
Ohristiania, see p. 11. — Brit, vice-consul, Mr. W. Klein. — Ll(iyd\s agent,
Mr. W. Uritfeldt.
The ascent of the Fredrikstten (there and Lack) take.s at>oiit IV2 hr.
(carr. 3 kr.), including the excursion to Wein 3 bra. (carr. 7 kr.).
Babdekeb's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 6
S2 Route 13. FREDEIHSHALD. From Vhristiaiiia
Fredriksliald, an old town with 12,000 inhab., several times
rebuilt, is picturesquely situated on both banks of the Tistedals-
Eiu, whidh here enters th'e Idefjord. It is one of the centres of the
timber traffic of E. Norway and the adjoining parts of Sweden.
Upwards of 1,000,000 logs are collected here annually. On the S.E.
it is commanded by the once important fortress of Fredrikssten. The
villas of the wealthy merchants line the fjord.
FredrikshaJd owes its name to the bravery with which the inhabitants
repelled the attacks of the Swedes in 1658-GO, in consequence of which
Frederick II. exchanged its old name of Halden for Fredrikshald, and in
1661-66 founded the fortress of Fredrikssten. The Swedes under Ch irles XII.
again attacked the town in 1716, and were again unsuccessful, chiefly
owing to the gallantry of Peder and Bans Kolbjernsen. In 1718 Charles XII.
basieged Fredrikshald a second time, but was shot in the trenches at the
back of the fortress on lith Dec, wh-'reupon his army raised the siege.
A walk by the harbour (PI. C, 4) affords a flue view of the
Fredrikssten and of the islet of Sauge (p. 83). Adjoining the
harbour is the market-place (Torvet; PI. C, I), 3), where a simple
monument commemorates the gallantry of the brothers Kolbjernsen.
We follow P. Kolbjernsen's Gaden to the E., cross the outer
wall of the fortress, and ascend a broad road in 8-10 min. to the
gate ('V. Port' in the annexed Plan) of the *Frbdkikssten (PI. E,
3, 4; 365 ft. ; admission free). This fortress crowns a rock rising
precipitously on three sides, and dates in its present form chiefly
from the reigns of Frederick V. (d. 1766) and Christian VII. (d.
1808). The garrison consists of a few companies of infantry. The
best point of view is the Brandbatteri (PI. 11 ; E, 4), with a flag-
staff and some guns, immediately to the left beyond the Vest-Port.
A good view is also obtained from the Klokketaarn, the way to
which should be asked. Passing through the fortress to the E. gate
('0. Port'), where to the S. and S.E. we observe the once important
forts of Overljerg, Stortaarnet, and Gyhlenleve, we turn to the
left. Where the road divides, we again turn to the left (the road
to the right leading to the town and to Tistedalen), and soou
reach a wooden gate leading into the Commandant Park and to the
Monument of Charles XII., erected in 1860 by the Swedish army.
It consists of a cast-iron pyramid with an inscription by Tegn^r,
to the effect that the hero, 'alike in fortune and misfortune, was the
master of his fate, and, unable to flinch, could but fall at his post'.
'His fall was destined to a barren strand,
'A petty fortress, and a dubious hand;
'lie left the name at which the world grew pale,
'To point a moral or adorn a tale'. (Sam. Johnson.)
Adjacent are a stone and cross, marking the exact spot where the
hero fell in 1718. — If time is limited we return by the same route.
Leaving the Park by the S.W. exit (comp. PI. F, 4), we reach the
Tistedalen road a little below the bifurcation mentioned above, and descend
in 6-8 min. to a broader road leading from Fredrikshald to Id. We turn
to the left and after 5 min. diverge to the right. (A finger-post on the left
shows the way to the Skonningfos.) After 9 rain, (not to the left over the
Skonningfos bridge, which allords a view up th'3 valley to the villa of
to Goltnbury. ED. 13. lioute. 83
Wein, but) straiglil on, ascending gradually by the road on the left bank
for '/s ^'■•1 '""^ crossing the bridge tn the left to Tistedalen. We then
ascend to (10 min.) the hifih-lying yellow country-huuse of Wein (pron.
'Vane'), which coianiands a view of the FemsJ0(see below) and of theTistedal,
extending to Fredriksha!d. We retrace our steps nearly to (8 min.) the
church of Tistedalen, and, keepint; to the right, descend on the left bank
of the river to (35-iO min.) the Skoniiingfos bridge, from which 20 min.
more bring us to Pecle?- Eolbjeriisen's Park (PI. D, E, 2).
Time permtting, the traveller may take the ferry (10 0.) to the Saug0
(Pi. B, 4) and walk through a narrow valley to the other side of it. Fine
view of the fjord with Brat0 and the Swedish coast oppo^^ite.
Fkom Fredkiksuald to Christiania. by Ska, steamer daily, except
Blon., in 7V2-11 brs. (fare 4'/2 or 3 kr.). The passage from the Idefjovd
through the Svinesund into the wide Single Fjord is picturesque. For
the rest of the route, see p. 85.
From Tistedalen (see above) a Steamek plies thrice weekly to Skullerud
(l>. 78) in 9 hrs., afl'ordiug a pleasant trip.
Ou leaving Fredriksliald, we have a view of the pretty Tistedal,
with its waterfalls, mills, factories, and country-houses. The train
quits the valley by a short tunnel at(l40Kil.l Tistedalen (see above),
and runs along an ancient moraine resembling an embankment.
At (141 Kil.) Feinsjeen we obtain a beautiful view of the lake
of that name (275 ft.), G'/o Kil. long, which is connected with the
large Aspern (340 ft.), the Aremarks-Sje, the J&demarks-Sje, and
the 0rje-Sje by canals constructed for the timber-traffic.
The fortress of Fredrikssten is visible to the W. for a short
time. Several tunnels. Glimpse (right) o*' part of the fjord of Fred-
rikshald. Beyond (150 Kil.) Aspedammen (left) we get a glimpse
of the 0rsje. Large timber-yards are passed near (159 Kil.) Pras-
tebakke, beyond which we enter a thickly wooded district.
107 Kil. Korns* (475 ft.) is the last Norwegian station, but the
Norwegian customs-examination usually takes place atFredrikshald.
The line crosses the Swedish frontier. The district, almost
uninhabited, is marked by the traces of forest conflagrations. At
(178 Kil.) Mon ( Rail. Re^tatirant ) the Swedish custom-house exam-
ination takes place (comp. p. 312). Beyond Mon the train traverses
a bleak heath, surrounded by barren hills. 185 Kil. Ubkedalen.
189 Kil. Ed {*Rail. Restaurant, I). I'/o kr.) , prettily situated
above the Stora Lee (branch-line, i^;^ M.). By the station is a
small monument to Nils Ericsson, the engineer (p. 299). A few
paces farther on we obtain a line view of the lake.
The district beyond Ed abounds in marshes. Scenery monoton-
ous. At (207 Kil.) Bdckefors we cross the line from Uddu valla to
Bengstfors (p. 85). Beyond a tunnel we pass the Tiakcrsjo on the
right. 217 Kil. Dalskog. Farther on, to the left, we come in view
of Lake Venern and the small chalybeate baths of Rastok.
233 Kil. Mellerud (Rail. Restaurant), junction of the Goten-
burg and Falun Railway (R. 55) and of a line to (3 Kil.) ^unnaiia
on Lake Wenerii. — From Mellerud to (123 Kil.) —
356 Kil. Gotenhurg, see RR. 43, 55.
84
14. From Christiania to Gotenburg by Sea.
325 Kil. (2Ui M.). Steamboats daily, in each direction, in 16-19 hrs.
(fare, first-class only, 16 kr.). The steamers call at the following inter-
mediate stations: Strdmstad, Ila/tensund, Grebbeslad, FJellbacka, Tungen,
Lysekil, and Marstvand. Most of the voyage is within the island-belt
('indenskjeers'. Swed 'inomskiirs'); but sea-sickness is not unknown on
Ihe open bit of the Skager-lJack, in approaching Stroinstad. Travellers in
the reverse direction an ive after dark and so miss the beauties of Christiania's
environment. Hurried travellers may have their bagt;af;e examined on
board and land at once, but the usual jiractice is to spend the night on
the steamer aiid attend the examination at 8 a.m. the next day.
Good local steamers also ply from Gotenburg (Stenbro; PI. I>, 2) once
daily to Uddevalla (P^j'z hrs.; 4 kr.) and several times daily to Marstrand
(2 hrs.; 1 kr. 75 0.; comp. Kommunikationer 197).
The voyage through the Swedish island -belt ('skargard') is
interesting, though the scenery can hardly he described as pic-
turesque. Thousands of islands, either entirely barren or clothed
only with some scanty vegetation on their E. side, break the force
of the waves of the Kattegat and S!cager-Rack, and hence the sea is
generally calm. The climate here is said to be unusually healthy,
the sea-bathing places are much frequented, and the water is much
Salter and purer than in the recesses of the long Norwegian fjords.
The inhabitants are chiefly fishermen, sometimes wealthy, and are
descendants of the ancient vikings, who have left representations
of their exploits in the 'Helleristningar' (p. 85) still to be seen
in the parish of Tanum near Grebbestad, at Brastad near Lyaekil,
and elsewhere. At many points on the coast there are remains of
ancient castles, tombs, stone chambers f'valar'), and monuments
('bautastenar'), so that this region (Bohusldn) is .justly regarded as
a cradle of northern sagas. The cod, herring, lobster, and oyster
fisheries are the most important. "Windmills crown almost every
height. The thotisands of islands through which the steamer passes
are little more than bare rocks.
The *Christiania Fjord down to Moss is described in R. 1.
Below Moss the fjord widens, and the scenery becomes less in-
teresting. At the mouth of the fjord we steer to the E. into the
picturesque fjord oi Fredrikstad (p. 80). We then pass the Hualeer
(right) and the Singeleer (left), and enter the narrow Svinesund,
the boundary between Norway and Sweden, on a bay of which (the
Idefjord) lies Fredrikshald, commanded by the fortress of Fred-
rikssten (see p. 82). The Gotenburg steamers, however, do not call
at Fredrikstad or at Fredrikshald, but steer direct to —
Stromstad (Hotel Stromstad; Stads-Hotel; British vice-consul,
Mr.W. T. Lundgren), the first Swedish station, a favourite watering
place (pop. 2800 ; mud and sea baths), at the efflux of the Stromsa
from the Strdmsvatn. The badgyttja ('bath-mud') is obtained near
the town. In the environs are numerous caverns and 'giant's caul-
drons' (jattegryttor), formed partly by water and partly by glacier
action. Stromstad is a great depot of oysters and lobsters. At
l.YSKKIL. 14. Route. 85
Blomsholm, i^/2 M. to the N.W. of Strcimstad, is a 'stensattiiiiig'
(standing stones ; comp. p. 282) in the form of a ship.
Beyond Stromstad the vessel steers through the narrow Harsten-
sund, passes the Nordkosters Dubbelfyr (lighthouse) on the right,
and steers S.E. through the Kosterfjord. Near Grebbestad, a
fishing-village and bathing-resort, is the battlefield of Greby, ■with
numerous 'bautastenar', supposed to commemorate a defeat of
Scottish invaders. In the neighbouring parish of Tanum are ,a
great many 'Helleristningar' or 'sgraffiti', consisting of figures of
men and animals, ships, symbols, etc., scratched on the rocks in
prehistoric days.
Fjellbacka, the next station, with 900 Inhab., a large church,
and a brisk trade in anchovies, is curiously situated at the foot of a
rock. In this rock is the Rammelklava or Djefvulsklava, a narrow
cleft, near the top of which several large stones are wedged in. To
the W. are the Vaderoar and the Vaderbodsfijr. We now enter the
Sotefjord, with its dangerous sunken rocks ('blind skar'"), swept by
the waves of tlie Skager-Rack. On the peninsula of Sotencis, to the
left, are the fishing-villages and bathing-places ^S^moyen, Grafvernu,
and Tangen. We next pass the Hallo Fyr and the Malmo, with
quarries of brown granite. Steering S.E., we then call at —
Lysekil (Hotel Bergfalk; Hot. IJndberg; Stads-Hotel; Hot.
Lysekd ; British vice-consul, Mr. W. F. ThorburnJ, a favourite
watering-place (2800 inhab.), with a trade in anchovies and a hand-
some Gothic church, on the long peninsula of Stangenas, which
with the Bokends forms the Gulimarsfjord, extending far inland.
Though Lysekil lacks shade, it vies in popularity with Marstrand.
Good bathing; pleasant villas. Sailing-boats 1 kr. per hour. Ex-
tensive view from the Flaggherg.
Beyond Lysekil the UdJevalla steamers take the inner course ('inic
va^en), throuj^h the Sccmeswid and hetvifeen the islands of Orust and Tjiji'n
and the mainland. They touch at StenungsO, LJungsfcile, and other small
watering-places.
Uddevalla (Slora Hotel, well spoken of; Uddevalla Hotel; Cramer's Hotel;
Brit, vice-consul, Mr. T/iorbuvn, see above), a town with 8600 inhab., a
cotton-mill, and a small museum of antiquities, is prettily situated on the
Byfjord. The KalgFirdsherg is the t)ost point of view. The Kapellbackar
(201) ft.), hills of shell marl, to the W., are interesting. Near the town are
the pleasant liaiha of Giis/nfsberg.
Railways run from Uddevalla to Oxnered (p. 295) and to Bdckefon
(11. 83; GO Kil , in 3 hrs.) and Bengstfors (89 Kil., in 41/2 hrs.), on the Dais-
land Canal (p. 2'j9).
The Gotenburg steamers follow the outer course ('ytre vagen')
to the W. of the islands of Orust and Tjorn. To the left lies Fiske-
licickskil, a bathing-resort with a biological station of the Stockholm
yVcademy of Sciences. Farther on are the fishing-villages of Gaso
(right), Orundsund (left), and Gullholmen on the Hermano (right).
We pass the Maseskcir and the Kdrringij, with their lighthouses, and
sight the red house.s and the cliurch of Mollosund, on the island
of Orust. The rocks are covered with KUpfiitk (p. 2451. 'I"he larger
86 Route li. MARSTRAND.
steamers now pass through the Kirkesund, the smaller through the
shallow Albrektssund . Among the frequent lighthouses and Leacons
we next observe the Hamnskdrs Fyr,nea.T the dangerous Paternoster
Skdr, to the N. of Marstraud.
Marstrand (Turist- Hotel; Stads-Hotel, hoth very fair; British
vice-consul, Mr. C. A. Christenson), a town with 1700 inhah., on
the E. side of a small island, is visited by about 2000 sea-bathers
annually. Handsome church of St. Mary, of 1460. The sea here is
generally calm, being protected by the island-belt, and the water is
very salt and bracing. The mild climate has gained for Marstrand
the name of the 'Swedish Madeira'. Pleasant waljis surround the
town, and in the Societets-Park is the Alphyddan, a good restaurant
(board from S'/o kr.). Opposite the town rises the fortress of Karl-
sten, once called the 'Gibraltar of the North' (view; fee). To the N.
is the Kod, with the bathing-place of Arvidsvik.
Farther on we traverse the Sillemnd and the Salofjord. To the
left opens the Elve fjord, into which the N. arm of the Gota-Elf
discharges. We then pass (left) the large island of Bjorko, a sea-
bathing resort. From the Kalf»und we enter the narrow Varholmens-
Sund, and beyond Elfsborg (once fortified) the steamboat reaches
the mouth of the Gota-Elf, which it ascends in 1/2 hr. more to —
Gotenburg (p. 287).
AVESTEKN NOKWAY.
(As FAR AS TrONDHJEM.
Eoute Page
15. From Christiansand to Stavanger by Sea 89
The Stavanger Fjord 93
a. The Lysefjord 93
h. The Sandsfjord, Hylsfjord, and Saudeljord ... 94
c. The Sandeidfjord 96
16. From Sand (Stavanger) by the Suldalsvand to Odde
on the Hardanger Fjord 96
17. From Stavanger to Bergen by Sea 99
18. The Hardanger Fjord 101
a. Western Hardanger Fjord, to the Mauranger Fjord 102
Excursions from Sundal. Passage of the Folgefond . . 10!
b. Central Hardanger Fjord, to Eide on the East. . 104
Excursions from Jondal, Norheimsund, and JETstensjel . . 105
c. The Serfjord 106
Excursions frcim Odde 109
d. The Eidfjord Ill
Excursions from Vik i Eidfjord 112
Excursions from Vlvik 114
19. Bergen 115
'20. From Bergen via Vossevangen to the Hardanger Fjord,
or to Gudvangen on the Sognefjord 123
From Trengereid to Aadland and Norheimsnnd .... 121
Excursions from Vossevargen 126
21. The Sognefjord 130
a. Western Sognefjord, to Balholm, at the mouth of
the Fjjerlandsfjord 131
From Balholm to Sande i Hdmedal 131
From Ulvestad to (lr0ning 131
From F.iserland via, the Veitcstrandsskar to Nordre Nfrs 135
From Fja-rland over the Jostedalsbree to Jolster . . . 135
b. From Balholm to Gudvangen. Aurlandsfjord and
Nserefjord 135
From Sogndal to Solvorn; to Fjffrland 136. 137
Upper Aurlandsfjord and Flaamsdal Road 139
From .\urland to T^njum in the Lardal 139
c. From Balholm or from Gudvangen to Lierdalseren 140
From Amble to Sogndal 140
d. Aardalsfjord and Lysterfjord 141
From Siilvorn to Hillestad 142
Friim ililjeatad to \ordre Xas. Ausledalsbrse .... 142
From Mariljieren to Sogndal 143
From Skjolden to the M0rkereidsdal. Fjcldsli-Sa ter . 144
From Marifj;eren to the Jostedal 144
From the Krondal over the Josledalsbrse to the ■Nordtjord 145
Fnm Faaberg over the Jostcdalsbra; to Hjelle. . . . 146
6. 7
88 WESTERN NORWAY.
Route Page
12. Jotunheim 146
a. From Aardal on the Sognefjord to Vetti. Vettisfos 149
b. From Vetti to Tyinsholmen 150
c. From Vetti through the Utladal , Gravdal , and
Leirdal to Rejshjem 151
d. From Skjolden to Fortun and Turtegr© 153
e. From Andvord to Kejshjem. The Galdhepig . , 156
f. From Rejshjem over the Sognefjeld to Turtegre . 158
g. From Skogstad or Nystuen to Lake Tyin and Tyins-
holmen or Eidsbugaren 160
h. From Fagernjes to the Hotel Jotunheim, and up
Lake Bygdin to Eidsbugaren 163
From l^yboden to Lake Gjende 165
i. From Tyinsholmen or Eidsbugaren to the Gjende-
bod on Lake Gjende 165
k. From Vinstrain the Gudbrandsdal to Gjendesheim 168
1. From the Gjendebod to Rejshjem 171
m. From Tyinsholmen or Eidsbugaren through the
Melkedal and over the Reiser to Turtegrer . . . 173
23. From Bergen to Aalesund and Molde by Sea . . , 175
24. From the Sognefjord to the Nordfjord 178
Dalsfjord. Viksvand. F^rdefjord 178, 179
From Mo to Gr0iiing and Sgknesand 180
From Klagegg to Aamot, and over the Jostedalsbrse to
Olden 181
25. The Nordfjord. Oldendal, Loendal, Strynsdal ... 182
From Nordfjordeid to Volden 183
Skjardal. Ujegnabrffi 184
From Loen via the Skaala to Opstryn 187
From Hjelle to the Sundal and by the Erdal over the Joste-
dalsbrse to I'aaberg in the Jostedal 189, 190
26. From the Nordfjord to Aalesund and Molde .... 190
a. From the Strynsvand via Grotlid to Marok . . . 190
From Grotlid to the Tafjord 192
b. From Faleide or Visntes via Grodaas to Hellesylt
anl Marok 194
Excursions from Grodaas 194
From Hellesylt to the Strynsvand 195
Excursions from Marok 196
c. From Hellesylt through the Norangdal and by the
Jerundfjord to Aalesund 197
Excursions fi-om Fibelslad-Haugen and from 0ie . . 197,198
From Bjerke to F0rde on the 0stefjord 199
d. From Marok and Hellesylt via Sjeholt to Aale-
sund or Molde 200
From Sylte over the Stegafjeld to the Romsdal .... 200
From Aalesund to 0rstenvik and the Jg'rundfjord , . 203
RYVINGEN. 75. Route. 89
Route Page
27. Molde and the Moldetjord 204
a. Excursion to the Romsdal 206
From Aandalsnws to the Eikisdalsvand '-iOS
From Ormeim and from Stuefloten to the Eikisdalsvand 209. 210
From Stuefloten to the Norddalsfjord 210
b. Excursion to the Eikisdal 210
From Eidsvaag to Eids0ren on the Snndalsfjord . . . 211
From AUarnffis to Aandalsnses in the Eumsdal .... 212
From J^veraas to the 0k.<endal 213
From Beitan to Ormeim 214
28. From Molde to Trondhjem. — a. Direct Sea Route . 214
b. By Land to Battenfjordseren and thence by Sea
■via Christianssund 216
c. By Land through the Sundal 216
From Opdol to the Inderdal 217
From Siindals0ren through the Lilledal to the Aursjc<
llytte and Holaaker in the Gudbrandsdal 217
d. By Land via Angvik and 0rkedal 219
29. Trondhjem and its Fjord 219
Railway from Trondhjem to] Storlien (Ostersund,
Stockholm) 226
Railway to Levanger. Stenkjaer, Snaasenvand, and
Fiskumfos. From Fiskum to Namsos 226
15. From Christiansand to Stavanger by Sea.
Excursions from Stavanger.
Tbe distance from Christiansand is officially stated at 32 Norwegiail
sea-miles (206 Kil. or 128 Engl. M.), but the course of the steamer is con-
siderably longer. The distances given below are given in Norwegian sea
or nautical miles (S.M. ; 1 S.M. = about 4 Engl. M.) from station to sta-
tion. Steamboats, of different companies , ply daily in 17-20 hrs. (fares
13 kr. bo 0., 8 kr. ; to Bergen, 22 kr., 13 kr. 25 (».). As the voyage is
often rough, particularly between Ekersund and Stavanger, many trav-
ellers take their passage to Ekersund only (11 hrs. from Christiansand),
and go thence to Stavanger by railway.
The Voyage by the Large Steamers presents few attractions, as the
coast is imperfectly seen from the steamboat; but the entrance to theFlekke-
fjord and some other points are striking. The vessel's course is at places
protected by islands (Skjar), but is often entirely in the open sea, par-
ticularly ofl" Cape Lindesnres, on the coast of Listerland, and near Jsederen.
The small Local Steamers are much slower and call at many unimportant
stations, but they afford a good view of the interesting formations of the
coast. The fjords are continued inland by narrow and deep valleys, gradu-
ally rising towards the bleak and barren tablelands (Fjeldvidder) of the
interior. These valleys are usually watered by rivers which frequently
expand into lakes, and their inhabitants, the Oplands/olk , are mostly
engaged in cattle-rearing. Each valley forms a little world of its own,
with its own peculiar character, dialect, and customs. The Kystfolk, or
dwellers on the coast, are much engaged in the export of mackerel and
lobsters to England.
Christiansand, see p. 2. — The first steamboat -station is
(21/2 hrs.) Maiidal. On Ryvingen, an outlying islet about 41/2 M. to
90 Route 15. EKERSUND. From Christiansand
the S., wliicli is the lirst land sighted as we approach Norway from
the S., is a lighthouse, with a light equal to 34 million candles.
6 S.M. Mandal (Grand Hotel, very fair; British vice-consul and
Lloyd's agent, Mr. Andorsen), the southernmost town in Norway,
with 3900 inliab., consists of Mandal, Malme, and Kleven (with
the harbour), and is situated partly on rocky islands, at the mouth
of the Mandals-Elv. Ad. Tidemand (pp. 14, 15) is a native of Mandal.
— A pleasant excursion may be taken up the valley of the Mandals-
Elv, via the (45 Kil.) Hotel Try(jstad, to the (100 Kil.) Aaserals
Turist-Hotel og Sanatorium (^iibO ft.; 60 beds; English spoken, pens,
from 31/2 k^O) ^'^ *^® Loyavand, which affords good trout-flshing.
Beyond Mandal we pass the mouth of the Vndals-Elv and the
conspicuous lighthouse on Cape Lindesnees (formerly Lindandisnms,
Engl. Naze, Dutch Ter Neuze), IGO ft. in height. This cape is the
southernmost point of tlie Norwegian mainland, and since 1650 has
been marked by a beacon-light (the earliest in Norway). The part of
Norway to the E. of a line drawn from Cape LindesnsBS to the pro-
montory of Stadt (p. 177) is called Sendenfjeldske Norge, that to
the W. Vestenfjeldske Norge. In 2^0 li''s. more we reach —
6 S.M. Farsund (Grand Hotel; British vice-consul, Mr. I. P.
Su7idt; Lloyd's agent, Mr. C. Reymert), a small seaport with 1700
inhab., almost entirely burned down in August, 1901, near the
mouth of a fjord running inland in three long ramifications, into
the easternmost of which falls the Lyngdals-Elv. — The steamboat
now steers towards the N., iiassing the lighthouse of Lister, and
then the mouth of the Feddefjord on the right. Steaming up the
Flekkefjord, we next call at (2'/2 hrs.) —
6 S.M. Flekkefjord (*Wahl's Hotel; British vice-consul and
Lloyd's agent, Mr. J. P. M. Eyde), a prettily situated seaport, with
'2000 inhab. and a good harbour. To the S.E. lies (10 Kil.) Fedde,
on the fjord of that name, to which the Kvinesdal descends from
the N.E. ; and to the N. runs the Siredal, with the Siredalsvand
(120 ft.), the outlet of which falls into the Lundevand (65 ft.),
a lake 14 M. long and 1015 ft. deep. Between these lakes runs the
still uncompleted railway-line from Flekkefjord to Ekersund.
After quitting the Flekkefjord the steamer passes the mouth of
the Sira, which empties itself into the sea in a cascade. For a
short distance the coast-cliffs are covered with grass.
Ragefjord (not always called at) is the station for Sogndal. In
3^/2 lirs. from Flekkefjord we reach —
8 S. M. Ekersund. — Salvesen's Hotel , 6-7 min. from the pier
and 4 min. from the railway-station, very fair; Gkand Hotel, Ja:deren,
in the market near the station, English spoken. — British vice-consul,
Mr. 0. M. Punlervold. — Lloyd's agent, Mr. T. H. Punterrold.
Ekersund or Egersund, a town with 3200 inhab. and a large por-
celain-factory, lies in a rocky region, at the S. end of Jccdercn, the
flat coast-district extending to Stavanger, which affords good fishing
to Stavanyer. STAVANGER. 15. Route. 91
and shooting. A fine survey of the environs is obtained from the
rocky hill marked by a pole on the top, reached in 25 min. by a
narrow street opposite the railway -station, and an ascent to the
right past the cemetery and a farm-house.
The Rail-\vay from Ekbrsuxd to Stavanger (76 Kil., in 21/2-
3'/4 hrs.; fares 4 kr., 2 kr. 48 0.), which traverses this coast-plain,
is unattractive, but in bad weather will be preferred by many trav-
ellers to the steamboat. The chief stations are: (38 Kil.) Narbe
(restaurant); (46 Kil.) Time, with a woollen - factory ; Sandnas
(61 Kil.l, a little manufacturing town (2600 inhab.), prettily situ-
ated at the S. end of the Stavanger Fjord ; and (76 Kil.) Stavanger.
The Steamroat on leaving Ekersund passes the Elcere, a large
island with a lofty iron lighthouse. The coast hero is unprotected
by i-lands, and the sea is often rough. The steamer affords a distant
view of the flat and dreary coast, enlivened with a few churches
and the lighthouses of Obrestad and Feiesten. To the N. of the
latter, and about 12 Kil. from Stavanger by road, is the church of
Sole, adjoining which are the ruins of the old church, said to date
from the 12tli cent., and now fitted up as a dwelling by Hr. Ben-
netter, a Norwegian artist. We steer past the Flatholm Fyr and
the mouth of the Ha fs fjord, where HaraldHaarfager (p. 99) gained
a decisive naval victory in 872, which gave him the sovereignty of
the whole country, and released him from a vow, taken ten years
previously, not to cut his hair until he should be king of all Nor-
way. To the left rises the lighthouse on the Hvitingse. A little
farther on, the vessel turns to the E., passes the Tungemes, a pro-
montory with a lighthouse, and (4 hrs. from Ekersund) reaches —
15S.M. Stavanger. — Hotels. 'Hotkl Victokia (kept hyO.Pei-sson),
at the stcamboat-pior, between Nedre and £fvre Holme-Gaden, a new build-
ing with lilt, electric light, lut-air healing, baths, and cafe'-re^taurant,
E. fnini 2, K. 2, D. 3, S. 2 kr. ; Gkand Hotel (same landlord), Valb.jerg-
Gaden, corner of Kedre Holme-Oaden (Pi. C, 2), with balhs, ainiilar
charge?; Hot. Xouustjeknex, Skager 29, with bath.-, R. lV->-2''-j, B. V/->,
IJ. 2, S. lV:;'<r. ; Vesx.*;s Hotel. — Confectioners & Cafes: Haar, Kirke-
Gaden 2t; Juell Kongs-Gaden 45, near the park.
Carriages at Carlsen's, I'rind.^ens-Gaden 10, etc. Carr. with one horse,
i-4 iiers., 1, 1':, or 2 kr., two horses 21/2 kr. per hr.
Shops. Goldsmith: IleUslreni, Nedre Holme-Gaden 22. Furrier: 01.
Jensen, Kirke-Gadeu 41. l-'i.-hing-tackle: /. Rasfnus.'ienii- Racine, 0steivaa,'X;
Wood-car in'.:, embroidery, etc. : Stavanger Uusjlidsfcreiiing, Kirke-GadenSO.
Post - Telegraph Office, jgTvre Holme-Gadeu (I'l. C, 2). — Banks:
Korges Bank, Ska;icn, beside the Tory (PI. C, 2, 3) ; Stavanger Privalbank,
near the Grand Ilnlel. — Tourist Agents: Bennett, J&vre Holme-Gaden 16;
F. Bei/er, on tlie steamboat-quay.
Sea Baths, at the Slrtfmslenen (PI. F, 2), to the E. of the town. —
Warm Baths, in Jorenholmen
British Vice-Consul, Mr. T. Waage. — TI. S. Commercial Agent, Mr.
('. F. Falck. — Lloyd's Agent, Mr. B. S. .V. Bergc.sen.
Stavanger, capital of the 'Amt' of that name, with 30,000
inliab., prettily situated on a branch of the Bulckenfjord, er Sta-
vanger Fjord, is the commercial centre of the Ihifgllce, the district
enclosing the fjord, and is also one of the oldest towns in Norway.
92 Route 75. STAVANGER. Fro»?i Christiansand
It dates from the 8th or 9th century, but as it has suffered fre-
quently from fires, it now presents quite a modern appearance.
Alex. L. Kjelland, the poet (b. 1849) is a native of the town and
was long its burgomaster. The town owns a trading fleet of con-
siderable size and contains many fish-canneries. Stavanger is the
first port of call for the steamers from Newcastle,' Hull, Rotterdam,
and Hamburg.
The quay of the large steamers (PI. B, 1) is at the mouth of
the harbour of Vaagen, which runs far inland, on the N.W. side
of the peninsula of Holmen. That of the fjord steamers is on the
N.E. side of Holmen ( Ryfylke-Bryggen ; PI. C, 1). The main street
of the Holmen quarter is Kirke-Gaden, which, passing the Vul-
hergtaarn (PI. C, 2; fine view from the topi, leaJs in 6 min. to the
cathedral. Opposite is the town-hall, with the Brandvagt (PI. C, 3),
where the key of the church is procured.
The * Cathedkal (PI. C, 3), the most interesting building in
Stavanger, and the finest church in Norway after the catliedral of
Trondhjem, was founded by Bishop Reinald, an English prelate,
at the end of the 11th cent, and dedicated to St. Sivithin {Suetoniu-'i,
Bishop of Winchester, d. 8(32). In 1272 it was burned down, but
was soon afterwards rebuilt in the Gothic style. After the Reform-
ation it was sadly disfigured, but since 1866 it has been restored
by the architect Von der Lippe of Bergen. The nave is separated
from the aisles by massive pillars, five on each side, in the peculiar
northern Romanesque style, which evidently belong to the original
edifice. The choir, which adjoins the nave without the intervention
of a transept, terminates in a square form, and has a very effective
E. window. Its rich Gothic style points to a date considerably sub-
sequent to the fire of 1272. The choir is flanked with four towers,
two at the E. end, and two very small ones at the W. end. The
aisles and the S. side of the choir are entered by remarkably fine
portals. Pulpit of 1658 and Gothic font in the interior.
To the S. is the Kongsgaard (PI. C, 3), with its old chapel
(^Munkekirke ; recently restored), once the residence of the bishop,
who was transferred to Christiansand in 1685, now the Latin-
skole. — To the E., by the Bredevand, is a small Park (PI. C, 3),
adjoined by Kongs-Oaden, a favourite promenade skirting the
lake. — To the S., near the railway-station (PL 0, 4), is the modern
Roman Catholic St. Svithunskirke, in the old Norse style. Farther on
are the Theatre and the Museum (PI. C, 4), the latter a conspicuous
light-coloured edifice on an eminence, containing antiquities, natural
history specimens, etc. Beside the museum are a Hospital, a Gym-
nasium, and other new buildings. — The St. Petrikirke (PI. D, 2)
was built by Von der Lippe in 1863-65. — Peders-Gaden, nearly
1/2 M. long, leads to the docks by the Spilderhaug (¥1. F, 2).
On the hill to the N.W. of the town lies the Bjergsted, or public
park, the upper part of which commands a fine view of Stavanger.
to SlavangcT. LYSEFJOKD. 15. Route. 9H
The park may be reached on foot in 20-25 min. via the Lokkevei
(PI. 15, 3, 2) and the Bjergstedvei (PL A, 1), or by rowing-boat
(20 0. per pers.) from the steamboat-quay in 10 minutes.
The finest views of the town, the fjord, and the surrounding
mountains are enjoyed from the * Vaalandshaug or Vaalandspiben
(330 ft.), with the water-works and a tower (rfmts.), '/.2 hr. from
the cathedral (past the museum and the Egenaes flre-station, then to
the left). — The -view from the tower on the UUenhaug (460 ft.),
1/2 hr. farther on. is more extensive but less picturesque. The inscrip-
tion on the tower refers to Harald Haarfagers victory in 872 (p. 91).
.An excursion may betaken to Sole, a village on the coast of Jiederen,
12 Kil. to the S.W. (p. 91). We may then return by Malde, to the N. of
Sole, along the Hafsfjord (p. 91).
The Stavanger Fjord.
The Bukkeiifjord or Stavanger Fjord, a broad basin to the N. of Sta-
vnn;;cr, is studded with numerous islands and has ramifications indenting
the land in every direction, some of them with smiling shores, others
enclosed by precipitous cliffs. The lower part of the slopes is generally
cultivated, while snow-fjelds appear in the background. The only inhabited
places are the islands and the deposits of ddbris at the foot of the clifls.
The scenery is little inferior to the finest on the Hardanger Fjord.
a. The Lysefjord.
Steamboat thrice a week from Stavanger to Hegtfjord, Fossand (2hrs.),
at the entrance to the fjord, and Lysebunden, at its E. end (there and back
in 10-12 hrs.). The Sunday excursion-steamers (2 kr.) are not recommended.
Hegsfjord or Hele (tolerable quarters), to which we may also
drive from rail. stat. Sandnses (24 Kil., in 3-4 hrs.), lies on i\iQHele-
fjord, nearly opposite the mouth of the Lysefjord, on which lies
Fossand, near the church of Ojese. A large moraine here led Es-
mark, the Norwegian savant, about the year 1826, to the conjecture
that the whole country was once covered with glaciers.
The *Lysefjord, the grandest fjord on the S.W. coast of Norway,
is an arm of the sea, 500-2000 yds. broad, 37 Kil. long, and 1400 ft.
deep, and enclosed by precipitous cliffs rising to a height of 3300 ft.
The fjord is almost uninhabited. Opposite HelesUd lies the island
of Holmen. At Eidene or Eiane are large granite-quarries. Farther
on we pass several curious rock-formations, among which may be
mentioned Pra-kestolen , or 'The Pulpit' (marked by the Stavanger
Gymnastic Society with four colossal F's) and the Seslrene, a low
mountain-spur with four peaks. Beyond the promontory of Mulen,
on the N. bank, lies the farm of Sangesand, with a large plantation
of cherry-trees (1 170 in number). The singular peak of Kaase Heia
is known as •Kj;crringeii", or the 'Woman'. Kallelid, on the S. bank,
also possesses qunrries. To the N. is the farm of Kalltsten, with
another large plantation of cherry-trees. To the S. lie Flerlid and
other gaards. At the head of the fjord (21/2 hrs. by steamer from
Fossand), among huge rocks, lies the station of Lysebunden (two
beds of the Stavanger tourists' club at the gaard Ncrehe). On the
94 R. 15. — Map, p. 92. HJ0SENFJORD. Excursions
Kjerag, a mountain towering above tlie head of the fjord on the S.
side, a curious phenomenon is sometimes ob?erved [last seen on
Nov. lOtb, 1897, after a cessation for many years). A crash like
thunder is heard, and immediately after it rays or jets of steam
shoot out horizontally from a kind of cavern in the face of the rock
at least 2000 ft. above the fjord.
From Lysebundcn passes lead to the N. W. to Aardal(see below ; one day) ;
E. to Langeid in the Sa'tersdiil (see p. 5); S. to Fitjeland (30 Kil.) or to
Aadnei-am, both in the Sire.dal (p. 90l; and S.W. over the Okelro-Fjeld
and through the Blaaatel-Dal to the Frafjord (40 Kil. ; see below). The
last passes Ekeskog,, with the beautiful Maanefos.
The Frafjord, as the S.E. end of the Helefjord is called (visited
four times weekly by the steamer), is also worth visiting. There
is a good salmon-stream here.
b. The Sandsfjord, Hylsfjord, and Saudefjord,
Steamboats of the Stavanger Steamship Co., starting 8 times weekly from
the Ryfylke Brygge, ply to Sand in 4-5'/2 hrs. (fare 3 kr. 6U0.); to Saude in
5'/2-7'/4 hrs. There are also numerous other opportunities of reaching these
points indirectly by chan'iing steamers at J?p1s0.
On leaving Stavanger we get a glimpse of the open sea to the
left, but it is soon sliut out by the islands. On tlie left lies the
Vndse. On the riglit are visible the mountains of the mainland,
with snowy peaks in the distance. In an hour we pass Strand and
Tou. Between these places opens Bjerheimskjaflen, a gorge through
which tlie Bjerheimsvdnd empties itself into the fjord.
From Tou a good road leads past the BJ0rheimsvand to the Tijsdalsvand,
on which we may row to the gaard Nedre Tysdal at the E. end; walk
thence over the hill to Tveit i Aardal, near Bergeland, and follow the
road down the Store Aa to Aardal (see below), abont 27 Kil. in all. From
Bergeland the lljnafosser may be visited.
The steamer usually steers N., past the Talge (left; with marble
quarries) and the Fogne (right ), to Juteberg or Judederget on the
Finde ■ then across an open part of the Stavanger Fjord, where we
get a glimpse of the Atlantic (left), to the Stjcernere; thence through
a narrow strait between that island and the Bjerge, and across the
Ncer strands fjord to Na:rstrand, a summer- resort; next across the
mouth of tlie Sandeidfjord and past the Folds to Jails^ (p. 95).
The steamers touching at Tou afterwards enter the Fisterfjord,
call at Fiskaaen, and steer up the Aardalsfjord to Aardalsosen or
Aardal, near the mouth of the Store Aa, which descends from the
0vre Tysdalsvand and other, smaller, lakes. (Thence to Tveit, near
Bergeland, 8 Kil., see above.) Observe the extensive moraines of
ancient glaciers. — Steaming down the fjord again and up the
Fisterfjord to the N., we pass between the mainland and the Rande
and reach Hjelmehmd, a pleasant village amidst orchards, which
has its name from a 'helmet'-shaped hill near the church.
"We next enter the^IIjesenfjord, with its wild and grand rocks,
somewhat resemblin.o; the Lysefjord, and call at Tytlandsvik or Tet-
landsvik on a bay of its S. bank, and at Valde on its N. bank.
from Stavanyer. SAUDE. Map, p. 92. - 15. li. 95
From the head of the IIjOTenfjord a rough and fatiguing path crosses
(he mountains in two days to Viken in the Sietersdal (p. 5).
Returning to the moutli of the fjord, we next steer N. to Knufs-
vik and then enter the mountainous Erfjord, where we call at Haa-
landsosen, and thence direct our course to the "VV. to Jaelse.
Jselse or Jelse (Inn), which the direct steamers from Stavanger
reach in 2'/2-i hrs. , and the indirect coasters in 5-10 hrs., is a con-
siderable village, with a church. Most of the steamers touch here
and exchange passengers for different destinations.
The vessel next steams up the Sandsfjord, which gradually nar-
rows and is enclosed by lofty rocks, with several waterfalls. The fjord
afterwards expands a little. In l'/2~'21irs. from Jjelse we reach —
Sand (Kaarlms, with view, II. 2, D. 2, B. or S. 1 Va kr., very fair),
a church-village at the mouth of the Logon, which forms the pretty
Sandsfos omin. above the village. Route to the Suldalsvand, and
thence to the Breifond Hotel and Odde, see p. 96.
The Sandsfjord now divides into the Hylsfjord to the N.E. and
the Saudefjord to the N.
Once a week the steamer enters the *Hylsfjord, at the grand
head of which lies the station of Hylen. Fine waterfalls descend
from the cliffs.
From Hylen to Vaage on the Suldalsvand, 1V2-2 hrs. by a good
bridle-path ascending the wild HyUdal, and crossing the "IlyUskar, where
we enjoy a splendid view of tlie lake below (comp. p. 97).
In 11/2-'^ I'is. from Sand the steamer reaches the head of the
Saudefjord, at which lie —
Saude or Sevde and Saudesjeen (*R<ibbes Hotel), pleasantly
situated, favourite resorts from Stavanger. Walks to the S.W. to
the pretty Svandal; to the N.E. to (2 hrs.) Birkelandsdalen , with
its 7.inc-raines ; to the E., along the fjord, to ( 35 min.) Ivdre Saude,
with the parish-church and a view of the Sendenaa-Fos, and thence
to (10 min.) the bridge across the stream descending from the
Aabeddl, which here forms the Hellandsfos.
From Sauuk thuodgii the Slettedal to Seljestao, I'/z day (road
under construction). Guide and provisions indispensable. — As far as the
(V4 l>r.) bridge at the Hellandsfos, see above. About 35 min. farther on
is the gaard of 0streiin. To the right rises the snow-clad Skavle Nut.
We now begin the ascent; bchiw, to the right, Hows the Stor-Elv. Several
fine views, as we look back on the Saudefjord. About halfway up we
reach the gaard of Fivelland, and in 2'/2 hrs. from Saude arrive at the
top, commanding a grand rocky landscape. As we once more descend, we
cnjiiy increasingly beautiful views of the Store Lid-Vand, with the Suldals-
fos, and of the whole basin ofAarlun, a green oasis, with houses, fields,
stream, lake, and waterfall, amidst a dreary chaos of rocks.
At Aartun, 4' 2 hrs. from Saude, we find tolerable nigbtquarters, but
poor fare. — The route now enters the Slettedal to the N., ,ind leads
through a monotonous landscape, passing numerous sa^fers and waterfalls.
After 5 hrs. from Aartun, or about halfway to Seljestad, the path begins
to ascend, and sonn cummands a fine retrospect of the snow-draped Kirke
Nut and the Slettedal. Farther on we see the Folgefond (p. 104), a little
to the left. We cross a wide tract of moorland with numerous ponds, and
gradually descend to the R0ldal road and in a few min. reacli (10 hrs.
from Aartun) Seljestad (p. 98).
96 K. 16. — Map, p. 92. OSEN. From Sand
c. The Sandeidfjord.
Steamer to Sandeid twice a week, in 7-8V2 hrs. (fare 2 Vr. 70 «(.)•
The steamers go either by Judeberget, Narslrand, and Jcelse
as just described, or take a longer route, touching at Tou^ Aardal,
and Hjelmeland.
From Jselse or from Naerstrand they steer N. into the Sandeid-
fjord, which presents no special attraction. Two lateral fjords di-
verging from it, the Yrkefjord to the W. and the Vindefjord to
the E. , form a complete cross, recalling the form of the Lake of
Lucerne. Some of the steamers call at stations on these fjords.
Vikedal, at the mouth of the Vindefjord, has a number of handsome
gaards.
At the head of the fjord lies Sandeid (Fru "Weidell's Inn),
whence a road leads N. to ^len (8 Kil, ; p. 100).
16. From Sand (Stavanger) by the Suldalsvand to
Odde on the Hardanger Fjord.
2-3 Days, according as the steamer on the Suldalsvand suits. 1st Day.
Road (fast skyds) to Osen, a drive of 2-2'/2 hrs. Steamer on the Suldals-
vand (once or twice daily in both directions) to Nces in 2'/4 hrs. (fare
2 kr.). Road (fast skyds) to Horre (Brei/ond Hotel) , in about 3 hrs. —
2nd Day. Road (fast skyds) to Odde, a drive of about 7 hrs.
Sand, see p. 95. — The Logen, whose valley the road ascends,
forms several waterfalls (Sandsfos, p. 95). Both the river and the
Suldalsvand, out of which it flows, abound in salmon and have
been leased for 40 years by English anglers, whose handsome resi-
dences are seen at various spots. The first section of the road is so
picturesque and at the same time so hilly, that travellers are re-
commended to walk on for about 3 M., leaving the carriage to follow.
To the left is the Skotifos. The road crosses the river about 10 Kil.
from Sand and remains tolerably level until we reach the Suldals-
vand. It then crosses a tributary stream, with a saw-mill, and
passes Vatshus. Fine view in front. The church of Suldnlen and
the gaard of Melius lie to the left. After a drive of 2-21/2 lirs. from
Sand we reach —
19 Kil. Osen or Suldalsosen (Hotel Suldal, Hotel Suldalsporten,
both very fair, English spoken, R., B., or S. IV2, D. 2 kr.), beauti-
fully situated on the right bank of the Logen, at its efflux from the
Suldalsvand. Opposite rises the curious pyramid of Siraabekollen.
The *Suldalsvand or Suledalsvand (steamer, see above), the S.
part of which is enclosed by high mountains, is 28 Kil. long, but
at first is not broader than a river. To the right lies the gaard of
Vik, to the left Vegge. To the left is Kolbeinslveit, where the road
ends ; to the right is Helgences. We then traverse the rocky defile of
* Suldalsporten, where the imposing cliff to the left rises to a height
of 330 ft. The lake now suddenly expands. In a bay to the left are
the large farms of Kvildal and 0iestad ; then Vorvik and —
to Odde. N.ES. Map.%pp.92,102. — 16. R. 97
VuiKje (good quarters; steamboat-station), with tlie Ilyls^kar ris-
ing above it (p. 95). We here enjoy a view of the^central reach of
the lake, there being five reaches in all. To the left, farther on,
lies Ldleid, on the hill. In front we obtain a good view of the cur-
iously rounded and polished promontory of Boshaugen and of the
mountains to the N. To the S.E. rise the snow-clad Kalle-Fjeld and
the long Kvenne-Heia. — The steamer's terminus is Nks, but three
days a week (and at other times if required) it goes on to (4 Kil.)
Rodldkvam (p. 6).
Nses or NcFsfldten (Hotel Brailandsdal, three houses belonging
to the same proprietor, English spoken, D. 21/2 kr.), which affords
a fine view of tire lake and the snow-clad mountains in the back-
ground, lies at the mouth of the Bratlands-Elv, at the beginning of
the road to R^ldal. Conveyances meet the steamers.
The road ascends the beautiful *Bratlandsdal , passing at first
through a grand gorge, with overhanging rocks and several water-
falls. Most travellers will find it preferable to walk as far as the
top of the ascent. Farther on the valley is less interesting. At the
gaard of Tliorncrs, about 5'/2 Kil. from Nffs, we cross to the left
bank of the Bratlands-Elv , and farther on we pass the gaards of
Bratlnnd. To the left is the lofty Flasefos. Beyond the gaard of
Qrehakke we cross the border betwixt the Stavanger Amt and
Sendre Bergenhus Amt. Farther on we pass HirgerUind, on the
slope of the Kaalaas, and traverse a narrow ravine, with a series of
rapids. We tlien cross the Hcegerlands-Bro to the riglit bank of the
stream. This part of the route shows. the most fantastic rock-form-
ations, due to the ceaseless energy of the river. The road now reaches
the narrow Ljonevand , passes the gaard Ljone, and crosses the
bridge of that name. Charming scenery. Above the small £funde/bs,
the outlet of the Reldalsvand, towers the Ljonehals, a huge cliff
worn smooth by the river.
At Batten or Botnen the road once more crosses the Eratlands-
Elv, here issuing from the R^ldalsvand (1'2'26 ft.), and skirts the
W. bank of the lake, which is enclosed by finely-shaped mountains.
Beyond the JIaare-Bro, spanning a small stream descending from the
hd't, the roads to Telemnrkcn and tlie Hardanger part company. [The
former skirts the lake, at the N. end of which appears Reldal (p. 42).]
On the Hardanger road, lOmin. farther on (3 hrs.' drive from Njes),
is the —
24 Kil. *Breifond Hotel (li. 2, B. IV2, D- 2V2, S. l''^ kr. ;
English spoken ; Engl. Ch. Service in July & Aug.), on the site of
the former skyds-station of Horre or Haarc. The hotel commands
a fine view of the lake and of the Haukelifjeld and lies within a
short walk (•/* ^'"'O ^^ t^^ Haarefos.
The Hardanger Road leaves the lake and ascends the Horre-
brcekkene in windings, which walkers may avoid by short-ciits (rather
Haiideker's Norway nnd Sweden. 8th Kdit. 7
98 R. 16. — Map, p. 10-2. SELJESTAD.
marshy except in dry weather). On the right are the precipices of the
Horreheia, on the left the Elgersheia. Looking back, we see the hroad
snow-fleld Bredfond or Breifond towering above the H^ldalsvand to
the S.E, At the top of the hill (3415 ft.), 8 Kil. (is/^hr.'s drive) from
the Breifond Hotel, the road remains tolerably level for some distance
and crosses a dreary solitude with several ponds. We soon obtain a
view of the snowy Folgefond (p. 104). The road gradually descends
the Gorssvingane, and the **View increases in magnificence. Far
below us lies the narrow Oorsboten, flanked by steep hills, with the
sombre Gorsvand, at the lower end of which is a waterfall. Beyond
stretches the wide valley of Odde, with the long snow-flelds of the
Folgefond as a background to the left, one of the grandest and most
characteristic mountain-scenes in Norway. The old bridle-path and
the streamlet which lower down becomes the Hedsten-Elv are seen
from time to time by the side of the Gorssvingane. At the lower end
of the Gorsvand (2815 ft.) is a kind of rocky gateway, where the
view becomes unimpeded. Thence we proceed in zigzags , past
Svaagen and the Hedstensnut, to the green and treeless plateau on
which lies —
21 Kil. (from Breifond Hotel; pay for 24; 22 Kil. from Reldal;
pay for 28) Seljestad (2040 ft. ; Seljestad's Hotel, R. 2, B. H/o,
D. 2, S. 1^2 l^r. ; Folgefon Hotel, a little above the road, both clean).
Those who have a day to spare may pay a visit to a herd of reindeer,
pastured a few hours from here, belonging to the villagers.
The road from this point to Odde repays even pedestrians (4^/2-
5 hrs. ; a drive of 21/2 hrs.). It proceeds across the plateau and
crosses two arms of the stream. Stunted birches and firs begin to
appear. A projecting rock a few paces to the left of the road, about
40 min. walk from Seljestad and beyond the 20th kilomatre-stone
'fra Odde', affords an attractive view of the Hesteklevfos. The road
now descends in curves. On the right lies the small Hotel Vdsigten
(R. li/o, B. orS. IV4, I>- 21/4 kr.; English spoken). Just above
this a footpath leads to the left to a point marked by an iron signal,
from which we have an admirable view of the wild and wooded
gorge of *Seljestadjuvet, through which the road threads its way.
Lower down the road crosses to the left bank of the stream (contin-
uous picturesque views). About 10 min. farther on a narrow road
descends to the left through wood to the gaard of Jesendal and on to
Fjfflre (p. 100). The similar road 6 min. beyond the next bridge
ascends to the right to the gaard of Skard ; and farther on diverges
the road to the gaards on the height to the left. About 10 min. farther
on the road passes below the *Espelandsfos, on the left, and the *Lote-
fos, on the right. On an eminence to the right is the inn (p. 110).
From this point to Odde is a drive of 2 hrs. or a walk of fully 3 hrs.
23 Kil. (pay for 26) Odde (p. 108).
99
17. From Stavanger to Bergen by Sea.
The direct distance by water from Stavanger to Bergen is 25 Norwegian
gea-miles (100 Engl. M.), but the course taken by the steamers is consid-
erably longer. In the fullowing route the distances are given in sea-miles
from station to station. — Mail SiEAMiiRS (Christiania-Bergen; Com. 218)
leave Stavanger (and Bergen) every evening, taking 10-11 hrs. for the
trip and calling at Kopervik and Havgesund. The Local Steamers, also
starting every evening, take one hour more and touch at Ferresi'ik, Kopervik,
Haugesund, Mostcr/iavii, and Lervik, There are also other lines of slower
steamers (Com. 224, 278).
Nearly the whole voyage by all these steamers is in smooth water,
protected by islands, except for a short distance between Stavanger and
Kopervik, and between Haugesund and Langevaag. As the fine scenery
of the Hardanger Fjord (R. 18) does not begin till the Her0 and the Ter0
are approached, the traveller loses little by going thus far at night.
Stavanger, see p. 91. The vessel steers N.W. ; on the left are
the Duse-Fyr and Tungencts-Fyr on the Randeberg ; to the right
the Hundvaage, the Mostere, the Klostere with the ruined Vlsten-
kloster, and beyond it the Rennese and other islands. Before en-
tering the open Bukkenfjord we observe on the left the lofty light-
house on the Hvitingse, and to the N.W. the lighthouse of Falnas
(Skudesncts). We pass on the left the small seaport (1200 inhab.)
of Skudesnwshavn, with its lighthouse, at the S. end of the Karme.
The steamer now enters the Karmsund. The first station at which
the smaller steamers usually stop is Feirresvik, on the Bukkene.
6 S.M. Kopervik, or Kobbervik (Mad. Petersen's Inn), with 1000
inhab., on the Karmef, a large and populous island, is the chief
centre of the herring-fishery. The island is nearly flat, and partly
cultivated, but consists chiefly of moor, marsh, and poor pasture
land, and is almost destitute of trees. It contains numerous bar-
rows, or ancient burial-places, especially near the N. end, some of
which have yielded valuable relics. The climate, cool in summer,
mild and humid in winter, is exceptionally healthy, the average
death-rate being only 12 per thousand. — About 16 Kil. to the W.
of the Karme lies the small and solitary island of Vtsire, with a
chapel and a lighthouse, near which herrings usually abound.
On the left, about 7 Kil. beyond Kopervik, is the old church
of Augvaldsnces, adjoining which, and leaning towards it, is an old
'bautasten', 26 ft. in height, known as '■Jomfru Marias SynaaV
(the Virgin Mary's Needle). Tradition says that when this pillar
falls against the church the world will come to an end. — Farther
to the N., on the opposite side of the 'Sund', are five similar
stones, the 'Fiye Foolish Virgins'. At the end of the Karmsund,
on the mainland, lies —
2 S.M. Haugesund (Grand Hotel; Jonassen's Hotel, plain but
good, 1{. 2, B. 1 kr. ; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. B. A. Stolt-Nielsen), or
Karmsund, with 7900 iuhab., to the N. of which rises the Haralds-
haug, where the supposed tombstone of Harald Haarfager(d. 933)
is pointed out. On this spot rises the Haralds-Stette, an obelisk of
red granite, r)5 ft. in height, on a square pedestal, around which
7*
KX) 17. Route. LEHVIK. From Slavanyer
arc placed stones, 8 ft. liigli, representing the districts into whicli
Norway was formerly divided. It was erected in 1872, on the thou-
sandth anniversary of Harald's famous victory (p. 91). — A road
leads from Haugesund to the E. to (48 Kil.) 0len (see helow).
From Haugesund tlie larger steamers proceed direct to Bergen
(sometimes touching at Lervik), passing either between the Bem-
mele and the Storde or between the Storde and the Tysnase. —
To the N. of Haugesund is an unprotected part of the coast, call-
ed Sletten, which the steamers pass in about an hour. Near the
N. end of this tract is Lyngholmen, where some of the steamers
call, the first station in Bergens-Stift. To the W. is the Ryvardens-
Fyr on a rocky island. We now enter the Bemmelfjord, one of the
narrow inlets of the Hardanger (p. 101), passing the Bemmele on
the left, which contains gold-mines of little value, and on which rises
/S/sr£»en(1540ft.), one of the 'towers' of Bergen. This district is call-
ed the Send- norland^ the natives Seringer. Grand mountains in the
background. Some of the steamers next touch at Tjernagel, on
the mainland, others at Langevaag, on the Bemmele, opposite.
6 S.M. Mosterhavn, on the Mostere, boasts of a church built
by Olaf Tryggvason (995-1000), the oldest in Norway.
2 S.M. Lervik (DahVs Hotel), or Leirvik, where passengers to
and from 01en or Fjsere (see below) change steamers, lies at the S.
end of the Storde, one of the largest of the islands at the entrance
to the Hardanger. The wooded Halsene, to the E., contains remains
of a Benedictine monastery, founded probably in 1164, and several
barrows. — Comp. annexed Map.
To the S. of Lervik opens the Aal/Jord, with the villages ot Eekences
and Vikevik. To the E. is the Skoiieviksfjord, on which a steamer plies.
On the J0len/Jord, a S. arm of the Skoneviksfjord , lies 01en ("Inn,
skyds-station), 8 Kil. from Sandeid (p. 96), and visited 6 times weekly by
steamer. Several steamers call at Etne, at the head of the Etne-Pollen,
whence a mountain-path leads direct to Seljeslad (p. 98), a very fatiguing
walk of 11-12 hrs. (about 50 Kil.).
Eastwards from the Skoneviksfjord runs the -i^aire^'ord (steamer once
a week only), with the stations Aakre and (at the head of the fjord) Fjaere
(tolerable quarters). From Fjaere a narrfiw road, practicable for one-
horse vehicles, crosses the mountains, amidst imposing scenery, via Rulle-
stad (tolerable quarters ; in the neighbourhood are some remarkable 'gianfs
cauldrons'; p. 294) and Vinterlun to (IS Kil.) Oaavd Jesendal on the road to
Odde (p. 98; carriage from FJEere to the Lotefos in 4 hrs.). Comp. the
3Iap, p. 102.
Beyond Lervik the direct steamer traverses the Bemmelfjord and
then the Klosterfjord, named after the monastery on the Halsene.
2 S.M. Sunde, on the E. side' of the Husncrsfjord, on the pen-
insula of Husnais.
Her«r , a small island opposite Ilelvik , where passengers for
the Hardanger sometimes change boats (9^/2 ^^s. from Stavanger,
43/4 hrs. from Bergen).
The scenery now becomes more interesting; the mountains are
higher and less barren; on every side the eye is met with a pro-
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to lier-jen. aOI)0SUND. 17. Route. K*l
fusion of rocks, islands, promontories, and wooded bills, enlivened
with bright-looking hamlets nestling in sheltered creeks.
3 S.M. ffrom Sunde) Tere, a little island and village near the
N. coast of the tjord. Beautiful scenery* to tbe \V. the large island
of Tysnaese; to the E. appears tbe huge snow-mantle of the Folge-
fond (p. 104), one of the finest distant views of wbich is obtained
from this point. To tbe E., opposite Tere, is tbe peninsula oiStonga-
ncEs, producing a greenish slate with veins of auriferous quartz.
Tbe district of Nord-Horland begins here. The steamer threads
theLoksund. a narrow strait between tbe mainland and tbe Tysncese,
an island attractive to artists and anglers. Tbe next station, Ein-
ingeviken, lies on tbe Tysnaese, at the N. end of tbe strait. Godesund
(*GuUaksens Inn, pens. 3^/2-i kr., with sea-baths and boats for
hire), on a small island to the N. of the Tysnaesc, is recommended
for a stay. Vaage, near tbe Tysnaskirke, also lies on tbe Tysnaese.
Tbe Bjernefjord and tbe Korsfjord are next traversed. From
tbe latter, by which the Newcastle steamers enter tbe Skjsrgaard,
we have a glimpse of the open sea, to the W. On tbe left our
course as far as Bergen is bounded by tbe island of Store Sartore.
We obtain our last view of the Folgefond (to tbe W.) , just S.
of the little island of Trcele in tbe Korsfjord. To the rigbt is the
Lysefjord, with the charming island of Lyse (pleasant day's excur-
sion from Bergen, via Nestun, p. 123), and the ruined Lysekloster
(dating from 1146) on its E. bank. Tbe steamer then rounds the
peninsula of Korsnas and passes tlie mouth of the Fanefjord. The
Levstakken near Bergen (p. 123) now comes into sight to tbe N.
Beyond the island of Bjalkere (left) we call at Bukken, on an island
close to the mainland (to the right), and then steam past tbe island
of Bj0T0 (left). On tbe mainland sbore of tbe Vatlestremmen, a
strait witb a strong current to the N.E. of Bjcrre, lies Hakonshellen.
Numerous lighthouses now appear. To the left lies the LUle Sartore,
with tbe station of Bralholmen. Our course turns N.W. into the
By fjord, with tbe mountainous Aske (p. 123) on tbe left. Tbe
promontory of Kvarven, on tbe mainland, to the rigbt, witb exten-
sive petroleum-deposits, is the N. spur of tbe Lyderborn (p. 117).
17 S..M. (from Haugsund; 11 from Tere) Bergen, see p. 115.
18. The Hardanger Fjord.
From S/avantjer to Odde on the lldrdaiujer Fjord the overland ruule
already described (R. 16) is tlie most interesting-. Or we mav 'ni direct bv
Steamboat, twice weekly (Sun. and Tliurs.) in 22 hrs. (fare" 13 kr. 30 0.).
Passengers by the Thurs. steamer change at Here (p. 102) into the steamer
from Bergen to Odde. Another alternative is aflbrded once a week by
the Bergensk-Nordenfjelske Touristskib.
From Bergen to the Hardanger Fjord: Stkamboats to Eide dailv in
9V2-15 hrs. (fare 8 kr. CO^.); to Odde in I2V2-I9V2 hrs. (fare lO'/z kr.). —
The catering on these boats is very fair: comp. p. six.
From Bergen via Vo.isevangen (raihvay) to F.ide, see I!. 20.
From Telemarken via JJaiikeli and liaidal to Odde, see K. b.
102 Route IS. ROSENDAL. Hcmlanyer
The *Hardanger Fjord is the hest-known of the Norwegian
fjords, and the beauty of its scenery has been celebrated from very
early times. Wergeland calls it ^det underdejlige Hardanger , the
'wondrous-beautiful'. It 'certainly presents a most characteristic
example of peculiarly Norwegian scenery, with the barren ice-clad
fjelds, the broad surface of the fjord, and the narrow strip of fertile
and thickly -peopled land between them. To other attractions
must be added some of the finest waterfalls in Norway, all easily
accessible to good walkers. Yet it cannot be denied that the
Hardanger has formidable rivals in beauty in some of the N. fjords
which have recently grown in favour with travellers, such as the
Fjajrlandsfjord (p. 134), the Nordfjord (p. 182), and the Jarund-
fjord (p. 199). — The people (Haranger or Hdringer) and their
national characteristics will interest many travellers. The bridal
crowns and gold and silver trinkets (such as the Selje, or Sylgja,
a kind of brooch or buckle) are curious, and the embroidery, cover-
lids (Siumretapper), and carpets (Tapper) manufactured in this
district are much sought for. The costumes are seen to advantage
only on a Sunday morning before or after divine service. The
women wear the 'Skaut', a kind of cap of white linen with stripes,
and sometimes a picturesque red bodice, embroidered with beads.
The national music and the Hardanger violin (Fele), in which steel
strings are combined with the gut-strings to increase the sound,
are also curious and interesting.
Our description follows the course of the Hardanger-Send-
horland Steamboats, which, however, call at different stations on
different trips and alter their routes accordingly. The distances are
given in Norwegian nautical miles (comp. p. 89).
a. The Western Hardanger Fjord, to the Manranger Fjord,
Steamer from Bergen td Stindal thrice a week in 6-9 hrs. (6 kr. 10 0.).
The other steamers do not call at Sundal, but keep nearer the K. bank
of the fjord.
At the entrance to the Kvindherreds-Fjord , which forms the
avenue to the Inner Hardanger, lie on the N. and S. sides respect-
ively the islands of Terei (10 S.M. from Bergen) and Here (11 S.M.
from Bergen; p. 100). The steamboat- station on Here is named
Heresund (change of boats, see p. 101).
Beyond Here the vessel steers into the Stor-Sund, a strait be-
tween the islands of Skorpen and Snilstveit on one side and the
mainland on the other. On this strait are the stations Vskedal,
overtopped by the Englefjeld and the Kjeldhaug, and Demelsviken
or Dimmelsviken (inn), between the dark Solfjeld on the S. and
the Skinnebergs- Nut on the E., adjoined by the Malmanger-Nut.
Then —
2V2 S.M. (from Tere^'Roaend&l ( Hotel Rosendcd), near the tower-
less church of Kvindherred , with the park and chateau (built in
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Fjord. SUNDAL. 18. Route. 103
1678) of the Barons Uoff-Kosenkrone. The chateau contains a statue
of the Countess Bariatinska by Tborvaldsen, and a few paintings. —
To the E. towers the conspicuous Melderskin (4680 ft.), which may
he ascended in 6 hrs.: a fair path through the Melsdal to the Midt-
siTter and the Myrdalsvand, beyond which the ascent is rather steep.
Grand view of the Folgefond and of the fjord down to the open sea.
Some of the steamers now cross to the stations Gjermundshavn
and Mundhebn on the N. bank (see Map, p. 100), or to the station
Skjelnces (quarters at the Landhandlers) in the large Varaldse.
Thence to Bakke, Jondal, etc., see p. 104. — Between the Varaldse
and the mainland to the E. the fjord is called Sildefjord. The
steamer touches at the church oi ^'Ences, at the mouth of the lEnces-
dal, over which a serrated ridge with the snow-lields and glaciers
of the Folgefond (p. 104) rises as background.
At iEnaes opens the *Mauranger Fjord, on which a steamboat
plies eastwards thrice a week and westwards twice a week ; on other
days it may be reached by boat-skyds from Skjelnaes (about 18 Kil.
from Sundal, 3-3'/2 lirs.' row). To the right of the entrance to this
fjord, which is flanked with lofty cliffs, is the Furebergsfos, a broad
•white waterfall. The steamboat-station is —
3 SM.SunAa.1 (Hotel Sundal, very fair, R. IVi, B. 11/4, D.
13/4-2, S. IV2 l^r-)) "6^'^ t^s gaard of Bondhus, the starting-point
for a visit to the Folgefond and its beautiful glacier, the Bond-
husbrae. Samson Olsen Sundal is a competent guide.
A Visit to the Bondhusbr.e takes 372 'irs. on foot, there and
back. A narrow cart-track (stolkjsrre 3, for 2 pers. 4 kr.) ascends
the valley of Sundal, enclosed by high mountains, on the left bank
of the stream, crossing remains of old moraines, to the (8/4 hr.)
liondhusvand (625 ft.). Splendid view of the lake, with its protrud-
ing rocky islets, and of the Bondhusbrje, rising over the grass-grown
moraine on the S. bank. Several cascades precipitate themselves from
the heights to the right and left. A boat lies ready to convey us to
(20 min.) the other end (rowed by the guide brought from Sundal,
1 kr. 60 0.). Hence we ascend a footpath over the moraine, which
is marshy at places antl passes a saeter (occupied only till the middle
of July), to (25 min.) the *Bondhu8br8e. The finest view of the
glacier and the foaming lirufos (left) is obtained from the highest
point of the moraine, but the traveller should go on to the left to
the glacier-stream, which issues from a blue ice-cavern.
The Passage oi- the Folgefond is a fine and not too difflciilt
expedition (to Odde IOI/2-II hrs.; guide 8, for 2 pers. 10, for
4 pers. 12 kr. ; riding practicable to the top of the pass, horse 12 kr. ;
early starters are in shade during the ascent; provisions necessary).
About '/a hr. from Sundal a bridle-path diverges to the left from
the above-described route to the Bondhusbrae, descends and crosses
the glacier-brook by a bridge, and traverses tneadows to the foot of
the height on the other side. We ascend in windings, passing a
104 R. 18.— Map, p. 102. BAKKE. Hardanger
tablet in commemoration of the construction of the path by the
German 'Nordlands-Verein' in 1890. In about 2i/o hrs. from Sundal
we reach the Oarshammer-Sater (about 2300 ft.), where a bottle of
beer may be obtained (50 0.). Farther on we cross the outflow of a
small lake and traverse a stretch of marshy ground. We then ascend
by a fair path to the right, between boulders. In about II/2 hr. the
red-roofed hut of Breidablik comes Into sight. We next descend,
cross the broad outflow (stepping-stones) of an ice-bound lake to our
left, and re-ascend, over a large snow-lield, to (i/ohr.) the Breida-
hlik Tourist Hut (ca. 4430 ft.), on the Bottenhorgen, where beer
and other refreshments may be obtained. This commands an ex-
tensive survey of the huge *Folgefond ('fond' or 'fonn', a field of
snow), which covers a plateau about 36 Kil. long and 6-15 Kil.
broad, without any distinct peak or summit. This enormous mass
of snow and ice, which sends offshoots down the valleys in all direc-
tions, may be crossed without difficulty. Travellers with horses
find sledges waiting for them at the hut, but this 'summer sleighing'
is but an indifferent pastime and moreover is not much quicker
than walking. The ascent over the gradual snowy incline to the
top (5425 ft.) takes about 31/2 hrs.; here we obtain a view of the
Hardanger Vidda. A new bridle-path descends on the E. side,
passing the Tokheimsnuter and crossing some steep snow-slopes, to
the Tokheimsdal. To Tokheim we take about 2 hrs., and Odde is
1/2 hr. farther on (see p. 108).
From Gjerde, on the j(^stre PoUen or E. arm of the Mauranger Fjord
(boat from Sundal in 1/4 hr., 50 0.), a bridle-path ascends to the Folgefond
and crosses it, passing the hut in the Urebotn and the Hundser (5:370 It.),
and afterwards descending rapidly to Tokheim (p. lOi; guide, Gotskalk
A. Gjerde, prices as p. 10b). As from Sundal, travellers may ride to the
mnrgin of the glacier and cross the snow in sleighs.
b. The Central Hardanger Fjord, to Eide on the East.
Steamer from Sundal to Eide twice a week (Tues. & Frid.) in 4-4'/2 hrs.
(fare 3 kr. 70 0.). The other steamers do not call at Sundal ; from Bergen
to Eide daily, in 9-14 hrs. (fare 8 kr. 60 0.).
On leaving the Mauranger Fjord the steamer steers direct to
the N. Fine retrospect of the peaks, snow-fields, and glaciers above
the /Enii'sddl (p. 103). To the Tightlie Aarsmid a.ndAarink, the latter
with a copious waterfall. We then cross the Hisfjord to Vikingnaes
(p. 105). — The other steamers, after calling at Mundheim or
Skjelnffis (p. 103), touch at —
5 S.M. (from Tere')Bakke {Balike Hotel, very fair), on the Strande-
barmsbugt, a bay of the Hisfjord. Bakke is beautifully situated,
with an extensive view of the Folgefond to the S.E., the snow-clad.
Tveite Kviting (4190 ft.) to the N.W., and the Tervik-Nut (35'20 ft.)
to the N.E. At the head of the bay, 3 Kil. to the N., is the church
of Strandebarm ; and farther on, near the hamlet of Fosse, on the
E. bank, is a waterfall, 490 ft. in height (130 ft. in one sheer leap),
which, however, loses mucli of its effect in dry weather.
Fjord. NORHEIMSUND. Map. p. 102. — 18. li. 105
From Strandebarm a path leads by the gaards of Haukaas and Sol-
hjerg and the Torahella sseter to (4-5 hrs.) Netland in the Steinsdal (see
below). But the route along the bank of the fjord to Sandven, though
longer, is more attractive.
1 S. M. Vikingnses {* Hotel- Pension ViMngnas, R. I-IV2, B. I1/4,
dej. 11/2, D. 2, pens. 5-7 kr. ; Engl. Ch. Service in .July & Aug. ),
frequented almost exclusively by the English, is pleasantly situated
on the S. spur of the wooded Ljenas-Aas. It commands a line view
of the MyrdaUfos to the S. and affords opportunity for many pretty
walks (to Norheimsund, see below). — Then —
Jondal (Utncs Inn), on the E. bank, noted for its 'Hardanger
boats'. The fjord contracts.
From Jondal (guide, Nils Vig) a road ascends the Kondal by (V4 hr.)
Birkeland to (3 hrs.) Guard Flatebe (1100 ft.), grandly situated. We may
then go to the S. to the Jondalsbrce, near the Dravlevand and Jeklevand ; or
to the E. to the Serfjord (p. 107). The latter route (8-10 hrs.; guide necessary)
leads from Flateb0 to the N.E. to SJnscet, ascends steeply and describes
a wide bend towards the N., turns to the E., skirts the Thorsnut (5164 ft.),
and passes the Saxaklep. The highest point of the route is 4510 ft. above
the fjord. Then a steep descent to the Reisceter (1080 ft.) and thence to
Bleie (Naae, p. 107).
Beyond Jondal the steamer passes several waterfalls, leaving
Jonances on the right, and enters the Ytre Sarnlen- Fjord, touching
3it Skuteviken once a week. Beautiful scenery. The steamer rounds
the Axencrs on the W. side, passes the church of Viker, and enters
the Norheimsund, on which lies —
3 S.M. Norheimsund ot Sandven (^Sandven' s Hotel, comfortable;
Iversen's Hotel; Engl. Ch. Serv. in the season), charmingly situ-
ated and suitable for some stay. Admirable view of the Folgefond,
with a succession of intervening mountains. — To the W. a road
ascends the Steinsdal; after '/2 hr. we cross a bridge on the right
in order to visit the 0fsthus (0verste Has) Fos, a waterfall 100 ft.
high, witli a path passing behind it (50 0.). — The Torenut (about
.3430 ft.), to the N., is easily ascended by the Sjau-Sater in 5 hrs.
FuoM NuRHKiMsuND TO ViKiNGN.T.s (scc abovc), 4Vr5 hrs. This is a
ple;i8ant excursion, hut is somewhat fatiguing owing to the fact that the
middle portion of the road has not yet been completed. The road leads
to Viktir and (10 Kil.) Axeiim.'', whence a footpath goes on to (1 hr.) the
small lake o( Lvsen. The rest of the route is partly road and partly path.
From Noeiieimsdnd to Trengereid on the Voss Railway, I'/z day.
From the Steinsdal, through which a new road is being made, we proceed,
with guide, in 5'/2-0 hrs., to Gaard Eikedal or Egedal (1030 ft.); then a
precipitous descent past the £ikedals/os, 285 ft. in height to the beautiful
Fi'elandsdal i Samnamjer. in which , 9-10 hrs. from Norheimsund, we
reach Tesse (inn), on the Aadlandsfjord. From T^sse wc cross by boat
to (4 Kil.) Aadland (p. 124), whence a skyds-road leads to Trengereid.
Beyond Norheimsund we have a continuous view of tlie edge of
the Folgefond, to the S. The steamer touches at —
0stens«r (^Hotcl 0stens0, small but good), prettily situated on
the bay of that name.
A carriage-road crosses the promontory to the E. of jS'stensef to (i'/a hr.)
Skaare, on tlic narrow and picturesque Fiksensund, which runs inland
for 11 Kil. from its mouth at Stenst«( (p. 106). At the head of the Fiksen-
sund, reached by rowing-boat from Skaare in P/t hr., lies Gaard Botnen
106 R. 18.-^- Map. p. W^. EIDE. Hardanger
(Flalehe's Hotel., very fair), whence a steep path (2-3 hrs/walk) leads to the
Hamlegre Hotel (p. 125), at the S. end of tbe Hamlegrevand. — From Bot-
NEN TO BoLKEN, a fall day'8 walk. . A tolerable bridle-path, very steep at
places, ascends the Flalebeigjel (Gjel. 'rocky ravine') t(i the (5 Kil.) Lelcdal
sseter (whence we may ascend the Flaiebefjeld or Lekedalsnuten., 34t'0 ft.,
a fine point of view; 2-3 hrs. there and back). From the sreter the path
ascends to the watershed (1970 ft.), and then descends a little to (G Kil.)
Hcdnabevg (two 'sEeter-hotels'), at the N.E. end (ii X^ie, Hamlegrevand (1940 ft.;
said fo aff( rd good fishing). We now descend by the course of the river
issuing from the Thorfinvand to (6 Kil.) Guard Skjeldal (1075 ft.). From
this point a good road leads to (5 Kil.) Grimesiad, at the W. end of the
Vangsvand, and thence via Liland to Bolken (p. 125).
Twice a week the steamer, after leaving 0stensje', steers to the
N. of tlie Kvamse and past the mouth of tlie Filisensund (touching
on one voyage at Stenste^ into the Indre Samlen-FJord. Here, near
the station of Aalvik, is the picturesque Melaanfos. Fine view of
the Samlehovd (see below), to the S. From Aalvik we then sail
direct to Eide (see below). — Other steamers cross the fjord from
^stensie to Herand, on the S. side of the bold Samlehovd or Snm-
lekolle (2060 ft.), double that promontory, pass (14 Kil.) Vinas and
Hesthammer (previously toucldng at Utne once a week, see below),
and enter the —
Gravenfjord. At the mouth of this somewhat monotonous fjord,
to the right, rises the Oxen (4120 ft.), which may be ascended from
the S.E. side; fine view, especially of the Serfjord on the S. and
the high mountains on the E. — At the N. end of the Gravenfjord,
where the channel contracts, lies —
5 S.M. Eide (*Maland's Hotel, a large house 1/4 M. from the
quay, R. 2, B. or S. 1Y2> ^- 2) pens. 5-6 kr., good cuisine; Juun-
sen's, 3 min. farther on, unassuming but comfortable; Engl. Ch.
Serv. in July and Aug.), the busiest place on the Hardanger Fjord,
being the station for Vossevangen, and prettily situated. A beau-
tiful walk may be taken by the Vossevangen road upstream to the
Gravensvand (l/g hr. ; to the Gravens-Kirke, 4 Kil.; p. 127). ,
From Eide to Vossevangen or to Ulvik, see p. 126.
c. The S«rfjord.
Steamer from Eide to Odde daily in 3-4hr3. (fare 2 kr. 90 /z(.); from
Bergen to Odde dailv in 14-lt>V2 hrs. (10 kr. 50 0.); from Vik i Eidljord
(p. Ill) to Odde daily (3 kr. 60 0.)
On quitting the Gravenfjord (see above), the steamboat steers
across the broad Vinefjord, the central reach of the Hardanger Fjord
(retrospect of the Oxen), to —
2 S.M. Utne (Utne's Hotel, very fair), beautifully situated on
the S. bank. At the back of the village, which has a large church,
lies a shady valley. The Hanekamh (3590 ft. ; 21/2 lirs.) affords a
fine survey of the Utnefjord, Eidfjord, and Serfjord. — Steamer to
the Eidfjord, see p. 111.
The Odde steamer steers past the gaard of Tronces, with the
promontory of Kirkeno's lying opposite to the E., and enters the —
Fjord. LOFTHUS. Map,p. W2.~ 18. R. 107
**Sflrrfjord ('South Fjord'), running to the S. for a distance of
40 Kil., and gradually narrowing from 2 Kil. to a few hundred yards.
The lofty rocky banks, from which a numher of waterfalls descend,
show that this fjord is of the nature of a huge chasm between
the snow-clad Folgefond and the central Norwegian mountains to
which it belongs. At places, particularly at the mouths of the
torrents, alluvial deposits have formed fertile patches of land,
where cherries and apples thrive luxuriantly, especially near the
centre and N. parts of the fjord, where it is never frozen over. The
banks are therefore comparatively well peopled , and the great
charm of this fjord lies in the contrast between the smiling ham-
lets and the wild fjeld towering above them. — The first station is
usually —
Grimo {Pugerud's Inn, very fair), on a fertile spot on the W.
bank. Beautiful walks (to the hill of Hangsnajs, 20 min. to the
S., etc.).
Opposite Grimo opens the charming Kinservik (reached by
rowing-boat), with the Hw^dnL and the Tveitafos and Nyastelsfos.
A lofty road, with fine views, leads from the church of Kinservik,
past the promontory of Krosriics, to Lofthus (a walk of 21/2 ^irs.).
3 S.M. (from PMde; 5 from Ulvik) Lofthus (Hotel IJUensvany,
English spoken ; Freken Muller's Hotel, near the quay, both com-
fortable; Engl. Oh. Serv. in the season), in an orchard-like region
on the E. bank, enclosed by a wide girdle of rooks, with a lofty
waterfall, is one of the finest points on the Hardanger. A little to
the S.is Oppedal, a landing-place and gaard where the steamers rail
once a week instead of at Lofthus. The parish-church of Ullens-
vnvg, on the S. side of the Aapo-Elr, which falls into the fjord
here, dates from the Gothic period ; fine W. portal; Gothic chnir-
vvindow, with the head of a bishop at the top, and a weeping and a
laughing face on the right and left. Brurastolen, a rocky height
above the church, affords an excrllcnt survey of the Serfjord, N. to
the Oxen (p. 106) and S.W. to the Folgefond. A visit to Bjerne-
bykset ('bears leap'), a fall of tlie Aapo-Elv, takes 2-21/2 Its. from
the inn (there and back). Farther off is the Skrikjofos, higher but
of less volume.
On the opposite (W.) bank of the fjord are the large gaards
of Jiiastttd, Viliire, and Aga. The last-named still contains an old
hall lighted from above. Above Aga rises the Solnut (4830 ft.);
beyond it, the Tliorsnul (olBl ft.). The glaciers of the Folgefond
peer down the valleys at intervals. — Next station —
Bjerven or Ber'^cn {Hotel L'dalsvand , well spoken of), with a
view of the glaciers on the other side. The prominent peak of the
Bervenut (1 hr.) is an admirable point of view.
On the \V. bank is the Vikebuyt, with the station of —
Naae and tlio gaards of Blcie, where just above fertile fields
and gardens are the protruding glaciers of the Folgefond , from
108 R.18. — Map.p.l02. ODDE. Hardanger
wliich several waterfalls descend. — Patli from Bleic over the
mountains to Jondal, see p. 105.
The next places on the E. bank are the gaards of Snndste and
Sexe; Hovland, with a spinning - mill ; Kvalenas^ a promontory
and gaard.
Espen, a station on the E. hank, with several gaards charmingly
situated on the hill.
Then, on the W. bank, Kvitnna, at the entrance to the imposing
R'tunsdal, with the glaciers of the Folgefond in the background.
The excursion to the Raunsdalsvnnd and back {JS-l hrs.) is attract-
ive, though the path is bad. Farther on is Digrenas, with several
waterfalls. Between Kvitnaa and Digrenaes, on the hill, is the
gaard of Aase. — Beyond Digrenaes are the gaards of Apald and
Anen, vyith the waterfall of that name, also called the Ednafos.
On the E. bank, after Espen, comes Fresvik , with its fine
amphitheatre of wood, bordered with meadows and corn-fields.
Then, opposite Digrenaes, are the gaards of Skjalvik, in another
amphitheatre of hills, and Stana, with Isberg at a dizzy height
above it. Between the Tyssedals-Nut and the Tveit-Nut opens the
Tyssedal, at the mouth of which is the fine gaard of Tyssedal. Close
to the fjord the Tyssaa forms a fall picturesquely set in pine-forest.
A group of rocks farther on is called Bisfcopen, Prasten og KLokkeren.
On the W. bank lies the gaard of Eitrheim, with the peninsula
of EitncEs, and Tokheim with its waterfall and the Tokheimsnut,
whence a bridle-path crosses the Folgefond to the Mauranger Fjord
(p. 103). — To the S. are the Ruklenut (right) and the Raasnaas (left).
4 S.M. Odde. — Hotels. "'Hardanger Hotel, kept by if. Tollefsen,
a large house on the fjord. Dear the pier, with a large hall, a handsome
dining-room (paintinga by Nils Bergslien), baths, and two de'pendances,
English spoken, E. 272, B. IV2, D. (1.30 p.m.) 2V4, S. IV2, pens. 6 kr. ;
"Grand Hotel, near the pier, recently rebuilt, with baths, English spoken,
R. 1V2-2, B. or S. IV2, D. (2 p.m.) 2 kr. ; Jordal's Hotel & Skyds Station,
to the W., at the S. end of the fjord, R. I-IV4, B. I-IV4, D. 13/4-2, S. l-l'A kr.,
unpretending but well spoken of.
Post Office, above the de'pendance of the Hardanger Hotel. — Telegraph
Office, to the W. of the Hardanger Hotel. — Antiquities and various useful
wares are sold by G. Helhtrem (from Stavanger) and M. Hammer (from
Bergen). — English Church Service in summer at the Parish Church and
the Hardanger Hotel.
Carriages. To the Lotefos and Espelandtfos and back, two pers. 12,
three pers. 15 kr. ; to Seljeslad (p. 98) and back, 20 or 24 kr. ; to Nan on
the Suldalsvand (p. 97), two pers. 30, three pers. 40, four pers. 45 kr. ;
to Dalen on the Bandaksvand (p. 39), 80, 90, or 100 kr. — Guides. Od Odsen,
Lars Olseii Bttstetttn, Ashjerii Lars Olsen., Nils Aarihun, and Magnus Jsbtrg
(speak English).
Odde or Odda, at the S. end of the Serr fjord, the terminus of the
great routes from Telemarken and the Stavanger Fjord (RR. 5, 16),
consists of the farms of Bustetun. Opheim, Bergeflot, and others,
while the name of Odde ('tongue of land') is applied to the large
church, where the Hardanger costumes (p. 102) may be seen on Sun-
Fjord. BUARBR^.. Map,p.l02. — 18. R. 109
days. Odde is the most frequented spot on the Hardanger Fjord, and
many visitors, especially English, spend a considerable time here.
Walks. (1). The new road to (3/4 M.) Tokheim (bridle-path
to the Folgefond ; see p. 108), which crosses to the W. bank near
Jordal's Hotel, affords a charming view of the fjord. We may extend
this walk by a path through orchards to the highest point of the
peninsula, where we enjoy a view of Odde to the S. and of the
fjord to the N. (from Odde and back ca. 3 hrs.). — (2). To the
*Sandvenvand, to the S. of Odde. We follow the Telemarken road,
ascending the (1/2 M.) Eid, an old moraine. To the right the Aabc-
Elv forms a fine waterfall, and behind us is a beautiful retrospect
of Odde and the Sarfjord. At the top we enjoy a view of the
Sandvenvand, with the Aabo-Elv issuing from it. The Vaslun-Bro,
an iron bridge li/o M. from Odde, spans the river. In 6 min. more
we reach the former quay of the little Jordal steamer (see below),
and by following the road for 1/4 hr. more we obtain the *View of
the Jordal mentioned at p. 110. — ■ The paths to the following
points are all more or less rough. By turning to the W. (right)
from the Telemarken road, opposite the post-oflice, and keeping to
the S. (left) along the slope of the Eidesnut, we obtain a grand
view over the fjord to the N. and the Sandvenvand to the S.,
especially fine by evening-light (there and back 3-4 hrs.). Beyond
the Vastun-Bro, by the small house halfway to the pier, we may
ascend to the left, over pastures and de'bris, to the top of the ridge,
which commands a fine view of the Buarbrae and the Folgefond
(there and back IVs'^ hrs.).
ExcuEsioNS. (1). To THE BuAEBE.»! (41/2-5 ^^8., there and back ;
guide unnecessary). Road to the Sandvewand, see above. Hitherto
a small steamer plied to the W. bank of this lake (10 min. ; there
and back 1 kr.), but it is doubtful whether this service is to be
continued. If it is not. we row in about 20 min. to the entrance
to the Jordal, where the Eidesnut and the Jordalsnut rise to the
right and left, wliilc the hamlet of Jordal lies on the right bank of
the river descending from the valley. The path (guide-posts) leads
to the left from the landing-place, passing among the houses, then
turns to the right, amid orchards, and ascends the right bank of the
stream. The Jordal , a valley enclosed by precipitous rocks, is
remarkable for its rich vegetation (birches, elms, barley). The
bluish -green Folgefond forms the background. In 1/4 hr. from
Gaard Jordal we cross a bridge to the left bank of the Jordals-
Elv, which the stony path now follows. In 50 min. more we
pass the gaard of Buar (1050 ft.), on the opposite bank. To the
left, high up, is a waterfall. The path is nearly level for about
1/2 M. more and then ascends for a few minutes to a refreshment-
hut. Thence we ascend the moraine to (6-8 min.) a point im-
mediately facing the Buarbrae. The glacier is divided into two
arms, which afterwards unite, by a rock called the Vrbotlen, and
110 R. 18. -Map, p. 1U2. SK.J^GGEDAL. Hnrdanger
conscqueutly has an unusually large central moraine. The Buarbrae
has been receding for several years and is not so fine as the Rondhus-
br£E fp. i03); neither is to be compared with the great glaciers of
the Nordfjord (pp. 185, 188).
Good mountain-walkers may ascend on the right side of the Buarbrffi
to the Folgefond, skirt the Eidesnut and the Mitklenut , and descend
past the Tokheimsnut to Tokhelm and Odde, an interesting but fatiguing
expedition of 8-10 hrs. (guide 4-8 kr.).
(2). To the LoTEFOs and the EsPELANDsros (there and back
6-8 hrs.' walk, [i-b hrs.' drive). We follow the Telemarkeu road
to the Vastun-Bro and pass the landing-place of the Jordal steam-
boat (comp. p. 109). Farther on we pass under menacing rocks
and over 'Ure' or rocky debris, enjoying a fine view of the Jordal,
with the Buarbraj and the Folgefond in the background. Farther on,
t) the left, is the beautilul Kjendalsfos; opposite is the Strandsfos,
descending from the Svarlenul. At the head of the lake, 7 Kil. from
Odde, lies the farm of Sandoen. The road next passes (2'/2 l^^il-)
H'ddal (330 ft.), where the Vafos or Hildalsfos descends on tlie
right, and (4 Kil.) Grensdul (reached by a bridge), the starting-point
for the ascent of the Saue-Nut (about 3960 ft. ; splendid view of the
Folgefond). The valley contracts to a ravine ('Djuv'), through which
dashes the GrensdaU-Elv. To the lelt is a tablet to the memory
of a German naval officer who was drowned here in 1897. About
2 Kil. beyond Grensdal we reach, on the left, the *Lotefos and the
Skarsfos, the waters of which unite below, while opposite to them
is the veil-like *Espelaiidsfos, one of the most beautiful waterfalls
in Norway. The best point of view is on the hill to the left, just
above the road; small Inn (R. IV2, B- 1 V2 ki-) a* ^^^ ^op.
This excursion may be continued up the picturesque ravine to
Sel.eslad (p. 98), a drive of nearly 2 hrs. more from the Lotefos
(comp. p. 98), forming a full day's expedition from Odde and back.
(3). Across the Folgefond to Sundal on the Maurangkb.
Fjoku, 10-11 hrs. (guide 12-16 kr.), perhaps better on the whole
in this direction than in the reverse (see p. 103).
(4). To THE Skj^eggeualsfos, 10-12 hrs., there and back (half
on foot), steep and fatiguing at places, and not without risk in
wet weather. A guide (6 kr. or more), who serves as rower, had
better be taken from Odde. We row from Odde to (6 Kil.)
Tyssedul (p. 108). We ascend thence by a new bridle-track on the
left bank of the Tyssaa, through wood, enjoying beautiful retro-
spective views of the fjord and the Folgefond. We pass several
small falls and describe a circuit through a wild gorge, in which
the Tyssaa disappears wholly from view. At the top the path crosses
a bridge to the right bank. In about 21/2 lirs. from Tyssedal we
reach the gaard of Skjseggedal (pron. Sheggadal; comfortable
hotel, English spoken; order meal for return, D. 2'/2 l^i'O- ^'" ^^^
left the Moyelifos descends from the Mogelinut, and on the right
is the Vasendenfos, the discharge of the liingedalsvand (p. 111). We
Fjord. EIDFJORD. Map,p. WJ.- 18. n. Ill
cross the Vetlevand ('small lake') by boat in a few minutes, and in
8 min. more walk over an 'Eid', or isthmus, to the picturesque and
exquisitely clear iiin^edaJsivmcZ (about 1300 ft. above the sea), with
the huge Einsatfjdd on the S. Here we embark in another boat.
(A high wind sometimes prevails here, while the fjord below is
calm, in which case the night must be spent at the inn, or the ex-
cursion abandoned. It is desirable to have one or more rowers
besides the guide; fee ^kr. each, overcharges not unknown.) The
lake is 6 Kil. long, and we row to its upper end in i^/o hr. ; about
halfway the Folgefond becomes visible behind us, and farther on,
the picturesque Tyssestrenge fall from a rock 500 ft. high. The
*SkJEeggedalsfos, a superb waterfall 525 ft. high, is less imposing
but more picturesque than the VOTingsfos (p. 112). In summer the
volume of water is sometimes scanty, but when the snow is melting
( 'Flomtid') and after heavy rain the effect is very grand. The ascent
from the landing-place to the foot of the falls leads across 'Ur.
FkoJI OdDE OVKK the HaKDANGER VlDDA TO Vlli I ElFJORD. This is
a walk of lour days, on which provisions and sleeping-rugs must be carried
(guide, Jergeii Fr'eim of Odde). 1st Day, via the Einsatfjdd and Mosboden
to the shoiitinsi-lddge oi Langevasboden; 2nd Day, to the Liilas-Soeter; 3rd Day,
to the farm of Viveiiid (bed 1 kr. ; no food); 4th Day, to the FosU Hotel,
Vering/os, and Vik (see below).
d. The Eidfjord.
Steamee from Eide, where passengers by the Odde and Bergen steamer
have to change, to Vik, every week day in 2 hrs. (fare 2 kr. 10 0.; once
a week via Utiie in 4 hrs.) ; to Ulvik in 3-4 hrs. (fare 2 kr, 10 0.; from Vik
to Ulvik 1 kr. 20 0.).
Tlu'Eidfjord or jS' i/)"ord, the easternmost branch oftheHardanger
Fjord, is enclosed by precipitous rocks. The steamer calls when re-
quired at i^ifiy^er?, Djenne, and Valkivik. Beyond the iiwsna"S, with
the gaard of Bu (which the Bunut behind it deprives of the sun
the whole winter), the Osefjord diverges to the left (p. 114). The
steamer passes its mouth. On the right towers the Skoddalsfjeld.
At the mouth of the valley running inland between the Skoddals-
fjeld and the RuUenut lies Erdal , with a saw-mill and a group of
bouses, where moraines and ancient watei-lines are observable.
On the N. side of the fjord ri?es tlie ice-girt Onin (p. 114). Facing
us rises the almost entirely bare Vindaxlen. Between the Oueu
and Vindaxlen opens the Simodal (called at only by some steamers),
above which peers the snowy plateau of the Hardanger Jekul^^. 114).
Near Vik, on the S.E. bank of the fjord, is the country-house of
the painter Nils Bergslien.
6 S.M. (from Fide) Vik i Eidfjord. — 'Vbiungseos Hotel, a large
house, close to the quay, kept by the Ijroihcrs iVcwfteim, who speak English,
R. l'/j-3, 15. li/a, D. 2, S. I1/4 kr. The dining-room contains painiiniis by
Nils Bergslien. — Eiujlis/i Church 8erricc in Ihe season. — Skyds to M:iab0
(p. 112) 2 kr. 38, 2 rcr.s. 3 kr. 50 0., there and back 4 kr. 7fi 0., 7 kr.;
saddle-hnrse (limuuht, from Sabu) lui to the Vwringfos 3, to the Fo.xli Hotel
5 kr. — EiKjuiry should be made as to whether the restaurant at the
112 Route 18. V0RINGFOS. Hardanger
V0ringfoB is open, as it is otherwise necessary to have a supply of jiro-
visiuns. — Guide for the more important excursions from Stebo (see below),
Halsten H. Meylelun.
Vik, grandly situated in a bay near the E. end of the Eidfjord,
is a good starting-point for several fine excursions. About 1/2 M.
distant is the church of Eidfjord, situated on a moraine ('Vor')
about 1 M. broad, which separates the fjord from the Eidtjords-
vand. The river issuing from the latter forces its way through the
moraine.
To THE V0RINGFOS, 8-9 hrs., there and back (carriage to Tveito
recommended). The new road skirts the river to the Eidfjordsvandj
a lake enclosed by huge cliffs. It then follows the W. bank of the
lake, in great part being cut through the rock. Beyond two short
tunnels we see the gaard of Kvam ('basin') on the hill above, from
which the Kvamfos descends. On the opposite bank rises the Eid-
fjordsfjeld. At the head of the lake we cross the Bygdar-Elv
( Hjalmo-Elv), which issues from the Hjalmodal (p. 113).
7 Kil. Sabe, situated with several other gaards (Megletun,
Lilletun, Varberg, and Reise), on a small fertile plain, watered by
the Bygdar-Elv and by the Bjoreia, the latter stream emerging from
the Maabedal. — The Maabedal is ascended by a new road, at first
on the left, then on the right bank of the Bjoreia, which leads past
the gaard of Tveito, where the river forms some pretty falls, to the
gaard of Maabe (820 ft. ; 7 Kil. from Saebe).
This road is now being carried farther on. In the meantime,
however, we follow the path of the 'Turistforening', which crosses
the stream and ascends rapidly on its left bank to the small, dark-
green Maabevand. In 1 hr. we reach the Veringfos Restaurant
(1380 ft.) and in 10 min. more the stupendous **V«rringfos, the
roar of which has long been audible. A suspension-bridge enables
us to approach close to the fall (water-proofs useful). The Bjoreia
plunges in a single leap of 5*20 ft. into a narrow basin enclosed by
perpendicular rocks on three sides. Two ridges of rock at the top
divide the river into three falls, which however soon re-unite. A
dense volume of spray constantly rises from the seething cauldron,
forming a cloud above it. Beautiful rainbow-hues are seen in the
spray, especially in the afternoon.
High above the fall is situated the conspicuous *Fosli Hotel
(ca. 2300 ft; R., B., or S. 1 1/4, D- 2 kr.), the proprietor of which,
Ola Oaren, is a good guide. The path thither diverges 5 min. below
the restaurant (see above) from the Veringfos route, crosses the
Bjoreia by a wire bridge, and reaches the hotel in I-IV4 ^^- -"^^^
points on the margin of the ravine, protected by railings, afford
splendid views of the falls. Those who spend several days here
should pay a visit to one of the herds of reindeer at pasture on the
top of the hill (3-4 hrs. from the hotel).
The Fosli Hotel is the starting-point for several fine excursions.
One of tlie best of these is the passage to the N. into the Simodal (guide
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Fjord. SKYKJEFOS. 18. Route. 1 13
4-5 kr. ; to Tveit O^/^-G^/o lirs.). The route crosses the marsliy
plateau between the Store and the Vetle Ishaug (4265 ft.) or avoids
this by a slight de'tour. In about I'/o hr. a fine *View is disclosed
of the massive Hardanger Jekul. The streams descending from the
icy crags of this mountain fall into the Rembesdal on the W. and
the Skykjedal on the S. The top of the Rembesdalsfos is also in sight.
The old route to the Slmodal bears to the left, while we reach the
new route by keeping to the right, at first without a path. We
descend in a straight direction for about '20 min. to the margin of
the Skykjedal. where we obtain a magnificent **View of the upper
Skykjefos (see below). — We now return to the top and proceed in
the direction of the new path, crossing the Skykjedals-Elv. (This is
difficult in rainy weather, when it is better to stick to the old route. )
We then skirt the upper margin of the valley to (20 min) the new
path (Bakkelaupet, see below), which descends in windings along
the verdant slope, and in 1 hr. reaches the Skykjefos, of which it
affords a good view. We then follow the valley to (^/4 hr.) Tcelt
and (1 hr.) the steamboat-landing-place of Sunodal, whence we
proceed by rowing-boat to (1 hr.) Vik (p. 111).
Wilh the aid of a guide and Ihe addition of o'/i hrs. *o our time, we
may include a visit to the DiBmmevand in the above excursion. In this case
we bear to the left from Ihe Bakkelaupet olong the slope; comp. p. 114.
Another good excursion from the Fosli Hotel crosses the plateau to
the S. via the gaard of Heil, the Skisceier, and Brrrostel, and descends
into the imposing Jljcelmodal, through which a g'cd path descends to Sxb0
(a vjralk of 8-9 hrs. in all).
Excursion to thb Simodal, a splendid day's march (guide to
the Skykjefos 4, Rembesdalsfos 5 , Rembesdalsvand 6, Daemme-
vand 7 kr. ; provisions necessary). — The E. end of the Eidfjord
consists of a narrow bay, where the steamer calls two or three
times a week only, but it is generally most convenieiit to visit
it by rowing-boat from Vik (5 Kil., in 1 hr.). Near the landing-
place is tlie gaard oi Sad, situated on an ancient moraine (good
quarters at the house of Torstein T. Tveit, who is a good guide for
the Dffmmevand). To the N. from the head of this bay stretches
the Ansdal, in which rises a curious isolated rock about 380 ft.
in height, and to the E. runs the Simodal. A road ascends the
latter to the gaards of Mehus and to Tveit (5 Kil. from Sacdl, whence
a bridle-path ascends the right bank of the brawling torrent. Rich
northern vegetation. We soon obtain a view of both ends of the
valley (N.E. and S.W.). After about 1 hr. we cross the stream
formed by the huge *Skykjevo8, whirh descends from a height to
the right in a perpendicular fall of 660 ft. We then ascend to the
right in windings by a new path named 'Bakkelaupet'. After
about 1 hr. from the bridge a path, diverging to the left, leads to
the N.E. end of the valley, where the copious * Rembesdalsfos,
850 ft. in height, becomes visible. [It takes about 1 hr. to reach
this fall, and from it we may follow a fatiguing path named the
Baedeker's Norwav and Sweden. 8th Edit. 8
1 14 R. 18.— Maps, pp. 112, 102. ULVIK.
Anclresstig, which ascends upwards of 1700 steps to (1-1 V2 lii"-) the
Rembesdalsvand.] At the top of Bakkelaupet, about 2 hrs. from
the Skykje Bridge, the path from the Fosli Hotel joins ours on the
light (comp. p. 113). We now keep to the left along the mountain-
slope, enjoying a beautiful *Vie\v of the whole Simodal, and in
1 hr. reach the Skaaranut, high above the Rembesdalsvand, to which
the Rembesdalsbrac descends. In 1 hr. more we come to Tresnut,
whence (with guide) we cross the glacier to (1 hr.) the shelter-hut
on the other side. — The following is a still finer, but somewhat
longer route. From the Skaaranut we descend rapidly to the
Revihesdalsvand (ca. 3300 ft. above the sea), cross by boat to the
Rembesdals-Scetir, and re-ascend (somewhat rough and fatiguing)
above the N. margin of the Rembesdal Glacier and past the Lure
Nut, to the shelter-hut.
From the hut an ascent of scarcely 10 min. brings us to the
*Dgemmevand, a mountain - lake , in magnificent surroundings,
nearly 6000 ft. above the sea. Wonderful contrasts are afforded by
the dark -green water, flecked with floating ice, the deep-blue
glacier, the dark fells of the Lure Nut, and the gleaming whiteness
of the Hardanger Jekul (6540 ft.), towering above all. A tunnel,
the mouth of which is visible near the shelter-hut, was completed
in 1901 in order to afford the lake a regular discharge. Before the
construction of this emissary the water of the lake was sometimes
piled up against the glacier until it finally burst its icy barrier and
rushed down to devastate the Simodal. — It is not advisable to return
to the Rembesdalsvand and descend thence to the Rembesdalsfos.
From Vik we steam down the Eidfjord and turn to the right
into the Osefjord, the N. branch of the Eidfjord, with a grand
mountain-background. To the E. is the snow-clad Onen (6150 ft.),
from which the lofty Degerfos descends; to the N. rises the majestic
Vasfjceren (2066 ft.). On the right, near the entrance, is a fall of
the Bagna-Elv. A low wooded hill, called Osen, separates the
sombre Osenfjord from its W. arm, the smiling JJlvikfjord, into
which we steer. — We soon come in sight of the farms of Ulvik,
thickly clustered round the head of the fjord.
3 S.M. TJlvik. — Hotels. 'Beaken^s, beautifully situated close to the
fjord and the chief resort of tourists, E. from IV2. B. 11/4, D. 2, S. I'A kr. —
Vesteheim's, a good family hotel, largely occupied by summer-boarders,
R., B., or S. 11/4, D. 2kr. ; Ulvik's, adjoining, similar charges. — Sponheim's
Hotel, on the new road (p. 127), 1 M. from the pier, unassuming. —
English Church Service in July and August.
Vlvik-Brakences, beautifully situated, is one of the most attract-
ive places on the Hardanger Fjord. Brakences, with its church,
is the chief cluster of houses among the hamlets and farms at the
head of the fjord, which are collectively known as Ulvik.
Walks. — A pleasant walk follows the road ascending near
the Ulvik and Vestrheim hotels, crosses the bridge at the fine
OSEFJORI). Map, p. 119. — 18. R. 115
fall of the Tyssua, and winfls along the slopes of the Hyllaldev. At
(ca. V^^'^O *^® point where the road makes a wide sweep to tlie
left, to avoid the gorge of the Tyssaa, we obtain a grand *View
(comp. p. 127; still finer at the top, V2 hr. farther on). — The
visitor should also follow the road leading to the S. from the
Brakeu£es Hotel along the fjord for a mile or two, in order to enjoy
the fine view in returning of IJlvik, with the Vasfj;eren in the hack-
ground. This road goes on to (QKil.) Hetlena-^, where the steamers
land their passengers when the fjord is frozen.
From the church a road, shaded at tirst by limes, birches, ashes,
and poplars, leads to the N.E., passing several gaards (^Hagestad,
Lekve, etc.). It then traverses meadows, dotted with apple-trees,
and leads across the hill to the Osefjord (1 hr.). If the peasants
on the way offer a boat for the trip to Ose (there and back 21/2 krO»
those who wish to make this trip should engage rowers before
reaching the boat-houses, where they are not always to be found.
The row back all the way to Ulvik takes 2iy'2-3 hrs.
The *Head of the Osefjord (where the steamers do not touch),
enclosed by huge mountains, may be visited by row-boat. Opposite
the starting-place, to the E., is the lonely gaard of Segmlveit, sur-
rounded by cherry-trees. A little to the S. of this point is the
'Stenkirke', a rocky fissure with a low entrance. It takes '^/i hr. to
reach the extreme N. end of the fjord. Provisions should be taken, as
the food at Ose is deficient, though the accommodation is otherwise
fair. A guide may be obtained here for excursions in the Osedal.
The wild '-Oaedal runs inland from the head of the fjord, between the
Krosfjaren and Xipahegd on the E. and the Vas/Jivreii on the W. It rapidly
grows narrower towards the N. A toilsome walk of 10-12 hrs. may be
taken to the Ose-Scaler, and thence, between the Oseskavl ani Vosseskavl on
the riyht and the Ganydalskavl on the left, to the Op.'.(vt-lit0le at the head
of the Rundal (p. I'iU). Then across the OravehaU (3710 ft.) to Kaardal
in the Flaamsdal (p. 139).
The ascent of the Vasfjaeren (5350 ft.) takes 12-16 hrs. from Ulvik,
there and back. Ole Hakestad of Lekve (sec above) is a good guide (6-8 kr.).
The fatigue is lessened by sleeping at the sa;ter on the Sohivand, 1 hr. to
the N. of Lekve, on the previous night. Splendid view from the top. —
From the Sulsivand to Klevcne and the Opsret-Sf/zrle in the Kundal (p. 129),
10-12 hrs.
19. Bergen.
Arrival. Most of the large steamers are berthed on (he N. side of the
harbour bv Bradbmnken and Fccslningshrifgffen (PI. B, 2), but some of the
British vessels land at the Toldbod (PI. B, 2). The oltice of the Bergen
Steamship t'o. is at Xo. 8, Torvet. The Hardanger boats lie at the Holbergs-
Almenniny (PI. 5; B, 2) ; the Sogne and Nordfjord boats by the Nykirke
(PL 6; B, 2). Cabs, see p. 116: the drivers are apt to over-charge. Porter
('Ba'rer') to the hotels. 350.-1 kr. — Travellers leaving Bergen by steam-
boat should ascertain in good time where the vessel starts from. As to
berths, see p. xviii. Most of the offices are in Strand-(jaden ; branch-
office of the Borgen Co. at Bradhsenken. — The Railway Station (PL C, 4
p. 121) is in the S. part of the town, near the Lille Lnngegaardsvand.
Hotels. 'Hotel Kouge (PI a ; C, 3) , Ole-BuUs-Plads , with electric
light, elevator, and baths, R. 2-10, B. 2, D. 3, S. 2V-j kr.; »Holdt"s Hotel
IIB Route 19. BERGEN. Practical Notes.
(PI. b; C, 3), between the Torv- Almenning aud Engen , an old house,
frequently renovated and extended, with electric light and baths, R. 2V2-
71/2, B. 2, D. 3, S. 2 kr. — MfiTRoroLB (PI. m; C, 3), Christies-Gaden, at
the cor. of Starvhus-Gaden, to the N. of the public park, with electric
light, baths, and lift, R. 3-6, B. IV2, D. (2 p.m.) with coffee 3'/4 kr.,
S. 2 kr. ; Hot. Boulevaud, by the Town Park, to the S. of the Hotel
Norge, a pleasant family hotel, with baths and electric light; Smebt (PI. e;
B, 2), Strand Gaden, to the E. of the Nykirke and near the quay of the
Qord-steamers, R. 2, B. or S. V,'2, D. (2 p.m.) 2V2 kr. ; Victoria, Christies-
Gaden, opposite the Metropole, with electric light and baths, R. 2V2-4,
B. 11/4, D. (1-4 P-m-) i^ la carte, S. 2 kr. : Cintinextal (PI. d; C, 3), Kaad-
stue-Plads, fair and not dear; Hot. d'Axgleteree (PI. g; 0,3), Raadstue-
Plads, opposite the fire-station, R. from IV2, ^. 2, B. or S. IV2, pens. 6 kr. —
Private Hotels and Pensions (comp p. 10; all well spoken of; K. 1V2-4, B. 1,
D. IV2, S. 1 I'/i 1 pens. 4-6 kr.) : Frk. Hansen, Torv-Almenning 12, at the
corner of Valkendorfs-Gaden; Frk. Marie Beck, Tor7-Gaden; Fru Sleen,
Smaastrand-Gaden, nearthe post-office; Fru Dina Leivaas, Smaastrand-GadenG .
Restaurants. 'Grand Cafi (PI. x; C, 3), opposite the Hotel Norge and
the public park, with dining-rooms on the first floor (D. 1-4 p.m.); 'Cafi
Boulevard, in the hotel of the same name (see above), with beer-saloon
with paintings by Bergslien (beer on draught; D. 2'/2-4kr.); Pa'terson's
Cafi, in the Hotel Norge; HoUWs Cafi, in Holdt's Hotel (sec above) Music
in the evening at these four. — 'Fleien^s (PI. D, 2; p. 122); parties should
telephone beforehand; no spirituous liquors, and on Sun. forenoon beer
is served only with warm meals. — "Bellevue (PI. F, 4), see p. 122. —
Confectioners. '' Mich e! sen, Uluf-Kyrres-Gaden, corner of Starvhus-Gaden,
by the park.
Electric Tramways (running every 7 min. ; fare 10 0.. including change
of cars). 1. From the Niigaards- Bro (PI. D, 5; p. 121) via Nygaards-
Gaden to the Torv, tlience through 0vre Gaden to the Marieckirke, and
thence to the !N. to Sandviken (PLC, 1). — 2. From Smaastrand - Oaden
(E. of the Torv-Almenning, PI. C. 3) past the post-office and cathedral and
via Kalfarveien to Kalfaret (PI. E, 4; pp. 121,122).
Carriages. From the steamboat-pier or from the railway-station into
the town, 1-2 pers. IV2, 3-4 pers. 2 kr., trunk 20 0.; per hour, either in-
side or outsiic the town, ca'iole 2, fiig for 1-2 pera. 2V2, victoria for
1-3 pers. 3, landau-and-pair for 1-4 pers. 4 kr. — Carriages for excursions
may be obtained from 0. Sa'bi/e, Engen 22, near Holdt's Hotel: to the
restaurant on the Flaien (p. i'A) and back (21/2 3 hrs.), cariole 5, gig or
stolkjserre 7, landau 10 kr. ; via Fl0ien (where dinner may be ordered to
be ready on the return) to the footpath on the Blaamanden 8, 12, 16 kr.
(time-tariff paid for excess if kept more than 4 hrs.); to Fantofl-Birkelnnd
(p. 123) and back (3 hrs ) 5. 7, 10 kr. ; circular drive via S indviken (p. 122)
Fjeldveien, Kalvedalen, Fantoft, and back (3V2-4 hrs) 9, 12, 16 kr.
Boats (Fl0t): across the harbour 10-20 0., according to distance. —
Electric Ferry Boat (5 0.) from the Holherg^s Almenning to Bradbcenken
(PI. B, 2) and from the Mtirahnenning to Drasggen {Drags- Almenning ; PI C, 2).
Post Office (PI. C, 3), Raadstue-Plads, open from 8 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. ;
on Sun. 8-9 and 5-6. — Telegraph Office, in the Exchange (PI. C, 3; entrance
behind), always open.
Shops. Hammer, Strand-Gaden 57, Norwegian antiquities, modern silver
ornaments, and pictures (branch in the Torv, at the corner of Valken-
dorfs-Gaden) ; Brandt, Strand-Gaden 51 b, corner of the 0stre Muralmenning,
furs, one of the largest shops of the kind in Norway (branch TorT-Almen-
ning 2, at the corner of Valkendorfs-Gaden) ; Husflids-Forening, Torv-Almen-
ning 12, wuod-carvings, embroidery, etc.; Beyer's Towisi Bazaar, Strand-
Gaden 2 (books, photographs, wuod-carvings, silver filigree-work, furs, etc. ;
dark room for photographer,?); Milne Grieg, Torv-Almenning 16, fishing-
tackle and sporting requisites; Sundt d- Co., Strand-Gaden 59-61, tailors for
ladies and gentlemen, also travelling requisites; J. L. Nerlien, between
the Torv-Almenning and Engen, for photographic materials). — Chemist :
Monrad Krohn (English spoken), Strand-Gaden, at the corner of the Hol-
bergs-Almenning. — Cigars and Tobacco : Reimers & Son, Smaastrand-
Geo^nifh. Inst . r.Wa^er feBebca .Lcips i^.
Situation. BERGEN. 19. Route. 117
Oftden 3. — Wime, Tinned Goods ('Hermetik'), and Biscuits: C. Kroppeliem
£nie, Strand-GadeniO. — Haik-Deessek : 0. Jergenten. Olaf-Kyrres-GudenlS,
to the N. of the park. — Xeicspopir Kicsqves in and near the Torv.
Banks. Gorges Bank (VI. t-), Bevgens Credit-Bank., Bergens Privatbank
(Fl. P), all in the Torv; office-hnurs 9.30-12.30 and 4-530.
Goods Agents. £ller/,usen d- Lund, Lille Allonaaaarden, Strand-Gaden 79.
Baths. Central- Badet, Kordal-Kruns Gaden, behind the Hctel iforge
(closed on Sun.). — Sea Baths at the Bontelbd, to the iS'.W. of the Fsestnings-
bryggen (PI. B, 1)-, lor gentlemen in the alternoon, for ladies in the fort noon.
Consuls. Jjriti.-^h, Mr. Albert Gran^ corner of Torvet and Strand-Gaden.
American. Mr. Victor Kelson, Domkirke-Gaden 7 ; vice-con.sul, Mr. Tli. Beyer.
— Lloyd's Agent. Mr. J. C. Christensen.
£nglish Church Service in summer.
Tourist Offices. T. Beiinet og Senner, Torv-Almenning 18 ; Beuer, Strand-
Gaden 2 (see p. 116); T/.os. Cook d- Son, Torv- Almenning 37. — IJebgens
TcristFouening, Strand-Gaden 29. BergensFjellmannalag ('mountaineers'
club'), Torv-Almenning (president, 3Ir. K. Ling).
Bergen (N. lat. GO°23'3, one of the oldest and most picturesque
towns in Norway, with 72,600 inhab., lies on a hilly peninsula
and isthmus hounded on theN. by the Vaayen and the By fjord, on
the S.E. by the Lungegaardsvand, and on the S.W. by the Pudde-
fjord. In the background rise four mountains, 1300-2100 ft. in
height: Blaarnanden (1890 ft.) with the Fleifjeld (810 ft.) to the
N.E., llriken (2[0b It.) to the S.E., Levstaken (1560 ft.) to the S.,
and Lyderhorn (1300ft.) -with the Damgnardsfjeld to the S.W.;
but the citizens count seven, and the armorial bearings of the
town also contain seven hills (formerly seven balls). The climate is
exceedingly mild and humid, resembling that of the W. coast of
Scotland ; the frosts of winter are usually slight and of short duration,
the thermometer very rarely falling below 15-20° Fahr., and the
average rainfall is 72 inches (in the Nordfjord about 35 in., at
Christiania 26 in. only). The mean temperature of the whole year
is 45" Fahr. (Christiania, 41°), and that of July 58° (Christiania,
62°). Owing to the mildness of the climate, the vegetation in the
environs is unusually rich; flowers are abundant, while grain and
fruit ripen fairly well.
The general aspect of the town is modern. The quarters ai!-
juining the harbour, which is entirely enclosed by large warehouses
('Segaarde'), alone retain a characteristic medieval appearance.
The town extends round the spacious harbour, called ^'(lagen,
stretches over the rocky heights at the base of the Fleifjeld and
over tlie peninsula of Nordmes , which separates the Vaaien from
the Puddefjord (to the S.), and is now spreading to the S.E.,
towards the Lille and Store Lungegaardsvand. Many of the houses
are roofed with red tiles, which present a picturesque appearance.
The older houses are timber-built, and usually painted white.
The streets are called 'Gader', the lanes and passages 'Smug' or
'Smitter', and these are intersected at right angles by wide open
spaces called 'Almenninge', designed chiefly to prevent the spread-
ing of conflagrations. Notwithstanding this precaution, Bergen has
been repeatedly destroyed by fire, as for example in 1702, the
118 Route 19. BERGEN. History.
disaster of which year is described by Peter Dass (p. Ixxvi) in three
poems. A conduit now supplies the town with water from Svartediget
(p. 122), thus diminishing the danger.
The inhabitants of Bergen, as well as those of the whole district
(Nordhorland, Sondhorland, and Voss), are more vivacious than
those of other parts of Norway, and are noted for their sociability
and light-heartedness, which burst forth in song on festive occasions.
English and German are much spoken by the better-educated.
Bergen {horo. Bjergvin-i 'pasture among the mountains') was founded by
King Olaf Kyrre in 1070-75 on the site of the old royal residence of Aal-
rekstad, at the E. end of the present harbour, which at that period ran
inland as far as the cathedral. The town must soon have become an
important place, as the grcate.st battles in the civil wars of the following
centuries were fought near it. In 1135 Magnus Sigurdssen was captured
and deprived of his sight here by Harald Qille, who in his turn was
slain by Sigurd Slemhe the following year. In 1154 Harald's son Sigurd
Mund was killed by the followers of his brother Inge on the quay of
Bergen. In 1181 a naval battle took place near the Nordnses between
kings Magnus and Sverre; and in 1188 the Kuvlunger and 0slcjegger were
defeated by Sverre at the naval battle of Florvaag (near the Ask0). Ten
years later, during the so-called 'Bergen summer', the rival Bjerkebener, un-
der Haakon Jarl and Peter Stei/per, and Bugler under Philipp Jarl and Er-
ling Sleinvxg, fought for possession of the town, till the latter were de-
feated in a great battle near the old German church. In 1223 a national
diet was held at Bergen, at which Haakon IIaakonsein''s title to the crown
was recognised (p. 1).
For its subsequent commercial prosperity the town was indebted to
the Hanseatic League, which established an office here about the middle
of the 15th century. From this Comptoir the German merchants were
known as Konlorske, and the nickname of Garper (probably from garpa,
'to talk loudly') was also applied to them. Having wrested various priv-
ileges from the Danish government, they gradually monopolised the whole
trade of northern and western Norway, and forcibly excluded the Eng-
lish, Scottish, and Dutch traders, and even the Norwegians themselves,
from all participation in it. In order to keep the Bergen Comptoir
dependent upon the chief seats of the League at LVibeck and Bremen, the
merchants and clerks were forbidden to marry ; hence the immorality
that prevailed in their quarters became notorious. At length, after an
oppressive sway of more than a century, the Germans were successfully
opposed by Christopher Valkendorf in 1559, after which their power
declined. Their 'Comptoir' continued to exist for two centuries more,
but in 1764 their last 'Stave', or office, was sold to a native of Norway.
Even in the 17th cent, the trade of Bergen much exceeded that of Copen-
hagen, and at the beginning of the 19th cent. Bergen was more populous
than Christiania.
Among eminent natives of Bergen may be mentioned Ludvig Holberg
(b. 1684, d. at Copenhaaen 1754), the traveller, social reformer, poet, and
founder of modern Danish literature, especially comedy; Johan Welhaven,
the poet (d. 1873); J. C. Dahl, the painter (d. 1857) ; and Ole Bull (d. 1880),
the musician.
Fish has always been the staple commodity of Bergen, which is still
the greatest fish-mart in Norway, in spite of the growing competition of
Aalesund and Christiansund. The Hanseatic merchants compelled the
northern fishermen to send their fish to Bergen, and to the present day
the trade slill flows mainly through its old channels. In May and .lune
occurs the first Nordfar-Stmvne ('arrival of northern seafarers'), when the
fishermen of the N. coasts arrive here with their 'Jagter', deeply laden
with cod-liver oil (of five qualities: 'Damp Medicin-tran', 'Medicin-tran'.
'blank', 'brun-blank', and'brun') and rce('Rogn'); and in July and August
they bring 'Klipfisk' and 'Eundlifli'. — Bergen has the largest mercantil
i
Torv Almenning. BERGEN. 19. Route. 119
fleet in Norwny (270 steamers, witb an aggregate tonnage of 500/00, be-
sides sailing-vessels). The ship-building yards are also the largest in
Norway: Oeorgernes Ver/t on the Puddefjord, Laksevaag Damp sic ibabyggeri
at Laksevaag, and Bergens Mekaniske Vccrksted at Solheimsviken.
The main street is Strand - Gaden (PI. B, C, 2, 3), running
parallel witli the harbour, and containing the principal shops and
offices. (Its W. prolongation leads to the Nordnses; see p. 120.)
At the E. end of Strand-Gaden lies the Torv-Almenning, with
the adjoining Tory (PI. C, 3), -which together form a long 'Plads',
running S. from the E. end of the harhour, and separating the old
part of the town from the new quarter built since the fire of 1865.
Here are the principal modern buildings, including the Exchange
{^Borsen; built by Solberg), and several banks; and here also is the
point of intersection of the electric tramways (p. 116). At the upper
(S.) end of the Torv-Almenning is a Statue of Christie (PI. 3, G 3 ;
by Borch), the president of the first Norwegian Storthing , which
concluded the convention with Sweden in 1814 (comp. p. Ixxvii).
To the N. of this point, in front of the Exchange, rises a Statue of
Ludvig Holberg (PL 7, C 3; see p. 118), by B'orjeson.
From the Torv, at the head of the harbour, projects a pier called
Triangelen^ at which the fishermen usually land. Interesting fish-
market here (especially Wed. and Sat., 8-10 a.m.). On the N. the
Torv is boinded by the Municijyal Meat Market (Kjedbazar), on the
first floor of which is the Town Library ('76,000 vols. ; reading-
room open 12-2 and 5-8). — For the adjoining Vetrlids-Almenning
and Kong-0;kurs-Oadeii, running to the S.E., see p. 121.
To the N.W. of the Torv, on the N. side of the harbour, ex-
tends *Tyd8kebryggen (PI. C, 2), or the German Quay, for the use of
the flshing-smaiks mentioned at p. 118. It was originally a wooden
structure, renewed in 1702, but it is now being rebuilt of stone.
The wooden 'gaards', in which the clerks of the merchants of Bremen,
Liibeck, and other towns of the League resided and kept their
stores of dried fish, are also on the eve of demolition. The one
nearest the Torv, known as Finnegaarden, is to be maintained as a
national monument and serves as the *Hanseatic Museum(V\. C, 2).
The Han?eatic Museum (open daily, 10-G in June, July, & Aug., 3-4 dur-
ing the rest of the year, and on Sua., 12-1; adm. 1 kr. ; catalogue 1 kr.)
conveys a go<id idea of how the gaards were fitted up, and contains a col-
lection of furnilure, weapons, fire-extinguishing apparatus, etc., mostly of
the latest Hanseatic period. Each gaard was presided over by a 'Bygherre'
and was divided into 'Staver', or offices, belonging to different owners.
Each merchant had a clerk and one or more servants ('Byl0ber). On
the Ground Floor were the warehouses; on the First Floor was an outer
room leading to the 'Stave', or office of the manager, with his dining-room
and bedroom behind ; and on the Second Floor were the 'Klaven', or rooms
of the clerks and servants. — As the use of fire or light in the main
building was forbidden, a common room ('Skj«jtstucn') for the inmates of
each gaard was erected a little behind it, towards 0vre Gaden. These
rooms were used for social intercourse, especially on winter-evenings.
Above the gaards oiTydskebryggen, to the N., rises the Marise-
kirke (PI. C, 2), with its two towers, erected in the 12th cent..
120 Route 19. BERGEN. Bergenhus.
enlarged in the 13th , and used by the Hanseatic merchants as a
German church from 1408 to 1766. The nave is Eomanesque, the
choir Gothic. The elaborately carved pulpit and the altar date from
the 17th century.
The Tydskebrygge is continued to the N.W. by the Fasinings-
hrygge (PL B, 1, 2), at which the large deep-sea steamers lie. The
entrance to the harbour here is defended by the old fortress of —
/T Bergenhus (PI. B, C, 1, 2), with Valkendorf's Taarn and the
I Kongehal (open free, 11-1 ; entr. at the Fwstningsbrygge, near Brod-
bsenken). Valkendorf's or the Rosenkrantz Tower, originally built
by Haakon Haakonssen , extended by Rosenkrantz in 1565, and
restored in 1848, consists in fact of two towers, of which that on
the N. is the more modern. Several balls built info the walls and
gilded commemorate an unsuccessful attempt of the English fleet
i to capture the Dutch fleet which had sought refuge in the harbour
I in 1665. The interior of the tower serves as an arsenal (adm..25'P'.l.
t The t^ (reached by a wretched winding staircasej affQrd§,.jiijid-
'• miral)le "survey' of the harbour and the town. Behind this tower
is Kongehallen, or the King's Hall, of the 13th cent., with a large
festal hall (restored). — Above the fortress of Bergenhus rise the
insignificant remains of the ancient Soerresborg (PI. 0, 1).
On the S.W. side of the harbour, between it and the Puddefjord,
the peninsula of Nordnaes (PI. A, 1, 2) projects far into the sea.
On the summit rises Fi>rl Frederiksherg, now the fire-watch. On the
!N.W. side of the fort are the Observatory and the Hospital. The
large and conspicuous brick buildings on the N. side are the Se-
inandshu!>, an asylum for old salts and their widows and a school-
house. At the end of the peninsula are promenades with benches
coramanding fine sea-views.
A new quarter with broad and regular streets has sprang up
within the last few decades around the Lille Lungegaardsvand (PI.
C, 3, 4). On the "W. side of this lake extends the small Toun
Park, where a band plays daily (except Sun.) in summer from 12.30
I to 1.30, and frequently also from 8 to 11 p.m. To the W. of the
I park, between the Grand Cafe (Pi. x) and the Norge Hotel (PI. a),
I stands an allegorical Monument tp_Qle.Bull, the violinist (1810-80 ;
I see p. 118 \ by Stephan Sinding, erected in 1901. — To the S. of
the Town Park is the —
rVestlandske Museum (PI. C, 3), built by Henr. Bucher in 1894-
97, with a bronze statue of the painter Dahl (p. 118), by Ambrosia
Tiinnesen, on the facade. On the groundfloor of the museum (left)
are a Fisheries Museum (open on Sun., "Wed., & Frid., 11-2) and
(right) a permanent exhibition of industrial art (open free, daily,
11-2 & 4-6); while the first and second floors accommodate the
Vestland Industrial Museum (open daily, 1 1-2 & 4-6 ; adm. on Tues.,
Museums. BERGEN. 19. Route. 121
Tburs., & Sun. 25 C. other days free) aud the Municipal PictureJ
Gallery (open daily, 11-2, free).
The Inddstkial Mdseum contains furniture and wood-carvings of the
15-18th cent., gild and silver plate, porcelain, Korwegian tapestry, netted
work, silver i rnaments, copper and tin utensils, articles of clotbing, etc.
The Picture Gallkkt includes e.xaniples of Bodoiii, Eckersberg, Tida-
mand, Gtide, A'ordenberg, Itrfmussen, Fritz T/iaulo'P, etc. Among earlier
works may be noted: 272. A. R. Menc/s, Cartuon of the Etitomlnnent; 273.
Carstens, The inhabitants of Riigen seeking to purchase their independ-
ence from Holstein (drawing). — The exhibition of the Bergen Art Union
(Knnst/orening) is also shown here ('/^l^r.; changed from time to time).
Christies-Gaden runs to the S. between the Vestlandske M\i-\
seum and the Raihray Station, passing the Roman Catholic Church \
of St. Paul, to the Sydnceshoiig, an eminence on which rises the — \
Bergen Museum (PI. G, 4), containing antiquarian and natural
history collections and a library. The central block was erected in
1865 \)Y Nehelom), the wings were added in 1897 'by Sparre. — Adni.
daily, 11-2 and 4-6; 250. on Tues., Thurs., & Sat., other days free.
On the grounclfloor is the collection of Norse Antiquities (good
catalogue, with illustrations, hy Lorange, 50 0.), chiefly from W. Norway.
In the entrance-hall, on the right, two carved church • portals from the
Sognedal; then, ecclesiastical vessels and pictures, a fine altar-piece in
carved oak with wings, of the 16th cent., tankards, porcelain, furniture j
(mostly Dutch); also prehistoric curiosities. — The Natdkal Histokt Col- ,
LECTION (first and second floors; catalogue 25 0.) comprises a very com-;
plete set of specimens of Norwegian fish and marine animals (skeleton'
<if a huge whale, etc.).
Tlie garden contains a bust of Z)r. G. A Hansen (the discoverer of the
bacillus of leprosy), a large hot-house, a 'Bunic Hall', with 'bautastenar'
and tombstones, and an old timber house.
On the bill to the W. of the museum rises the conspicuous
Church of St. John (PI. B, C, 4), a large Gothic brick building
\\ith a lofty tower, erected in 18i)0-9.^ from plans by H. Backer.
To the E. of the museum is an attractive residential quarter,
through wliich we may pass to the Nygaards Park ( PI. C, 4, 5),
with line views. On the S. side of the grounds, opposite Holmen,!
are a pavilion where a band plays (Sun., 5-7) and a caft5. — Outside!
theS. gate of the park, on a bay of theSolheimsvik, is aw Aquarium]
(PI. C, 5; Danielssen's Biological Station), open daily (except Sat.)
from May till the end of August, 11-2 and 4-7 (20 ier.). The salt-
watertanks outside the building contain seals, dolphins, sea-birds, etc.
We may return by the electric tramway (p. 116) from the neighbouring
Kygaards-Bro (Pi. D, 5). Beneath this bridge flows the Store Slrem, which
connects the Store Lungcgaardsvand with the &'oVieiinsvik and the Pudde-
fjord. The tide flows in and out of this 'stream'.
To the N.E. of the Torv extends the Vetrlids Alitienning, aud
here, opposite the market mentioned at p. 119, begins Kong-
Oskaus-Oaden (PI. G, D, 2, 3), whi(h runs towards the S.E. In
this street stands tlie Korfkirke (PI. C, 3), or Church of the Cross,
founded about 1170 but datitig in its present form from 1593.
A monument behind the church commemorates the Norwegians who
fell in the naval battle of the Alve (May 16th, 1808). — Farther to
the 8.E. is the Cathedral (PI. D 3; St.Olaf i Vaagsbunden, i.e. 'at
122 Route 19. BERGEN. Environs.
the end of the harbour'), oiiginally a monastery-church, erected in
1248, rebuilt in 1537, and restored in 1870. It consists of a nave
and S. aisle only. Fine Gothic windows and portal in the lower story
of the tower. — Kong-Oskars-Gaden then passes the Technical
School (PI. 11) and ends at the Stadsport (PI. D, 3; dating from
about 1630), outside which lie the old cemeteries of Bergen.
Outside the Stadsport Kong-Oskars-Gaden is prolonged by
the Kalfarvei (PL D, E, 3, 4), which is lined by pleasant villas
in luxuriant gardens. There are some fine trees in the plantation
named Forskjennelsen. On the right are the Pleiestiftelse (^P].E. 4),
a hospital for lepers, and the Lungegaards Hospital. A little farther
on is the terminus of the electric tramway.
The best view of Bergen and its environs (especially by morn-
ing-light") is commanded by the *I^'eldyei (PL D, E, 2, 3), a road
halfway up the side of the -wooAed Fleifjeld (^. 117J. This may
be reached in 15-20 min. either from the Vetrlids - Almenning
(PI. C, 2; a station of the electric tramway from the Nygaards-Bro
to Sandviken) or from the Kalfarvei (PI. E, 4; a station of the
Smaastrand-Gadeu and Kalfaret tramway; we ascend to the left
opposite the 'Brand -Telegraf of the Pleiestiftelse). The finest
point is marked by a semicircular terrace with benches (385 ft.;
PI. D, 2), above the cathedral. The N. prolongation of the Fjeldvei
descends through the Skrcedderdal to the suburb of Sandviken
(PL C, D, 1), whence we return to the town by the electric tram-
• way. The whole excursion takes 11/2 ^^•
The view is more extensive from the *FIflrieii (825 ft. ; PI. D, 2),
a hill ascended from the Fjeldvei by a winding road in 30-40
minutes. On the top are a conspicuous iron vane, which has given
name to the hill, and a good Restaurant (p. 116).
The road continues to ascend in windings for about 2 M. more and
ends higb above Svartediget (see below) with a fine survey of the lake-
studded valley uf Fjasanger (p. 123), extending to the mountainous islets
at the mouth of the Hardanger Fjord (best by evening-light). A new
footpath leads hence to the left to the (.Omin.). *Blaamanden (1805 ft.),
now the most accessible of the mountains round Bergen, commanding a
wide view of the coast-islands and the open sea.
We may continue to follow the Kalfarvei (see above), leading from
the terminus of the Smaastrand-Gaden and Kalfaret tramway (p. 116;
No. 2) to the Store Lungegaardsvand, and to Fleen and Mellen-
dalen (PL F, 5), with the new cemetery, from either of which places
we may return by one of the steam-launches starting every V2 ^'■*
The road diverging to the left 5 min. from the Pleiestiftelse
(from which in turn another road leads to the left to the Cafe-Restau-
rant Bellevue; PL F, 4) leads to the Kalvedal, in which, 1 M.
farther on, is Svartediget (PL G, 4), a lake whence Bergen is sup-
plied with water. Grand scenery; to the S.E. towers ULrlken.
About 1/2 tr. farther on is Isdalen, a picturesque gorge. — We
may return via the farm of Aarstad (PI. G, 5) to Fleen, or to the
, Kalfarvei, and thence by electric tramway to Bergen.
Environs. BERGEN, 19. Route. 123
A trip may be taken from the quay oi Nestet (PI. B, 3) by steam-ferry
(every '/< ^r. ; 5 0., after 9 p.m. 10 0.) across the Puddefjovd to Lalcse-
vaag I with its large shipbuilding-yards and dry docks (p. 119). We then
walk to the pretty Gravdal at the foot of the Lyderhorn (1350 ft.), which i
may easily be ascended, or to the E. along the fjord, passing pleasant vil-y
las, to Soiheimsviken (see below) and to the Nygaards-Bro (PI. D, 5; p. 121).'
The ascent of ''L0vstaken (15G0 ft.) from the terminus of the electric '
tramway at the Xiigaards-Bro (PI. I), 5: p. 116; No. 1) takes 1^4 br., there
and back 3 hrs. \Ve cross the bridge, lake the first street to the right in
Soiheimsviken (see below), and follow the footpath straight on where the road
forks ; after 5 niin. we turn to the right, and 100 paces farther on to the
left, through wood, whence we gain the (1V4 hr.) summit by an easy
zigzag path. The summit commands an extensive panorama and from its I
S. margin we enjoy an unimpedtd view of the Folgefond on the S.E.
Another good point of view is Ulriken (2105 ft.). From the Kalfarvei
(p. 152) we follow (he road to the S., which crosses the M0llendals-Elv and
(leaving the church oi Aarstad to the right) passes the gaards oi Hcmkeland
and Vognstol. Crossing the streamlet flowing to the little Haukelandsvund
(not to be confounded with the lake mentioned on p. 124), we take the
road leading to the left to the gaard of Liegdene (about 1 hr. from Bergen).
Farther on the way up the mountain (2i/2 hrs.) is marked by white posts
tipped with red. On the summit are two stone pyramids. The nearer
.'^ummit (1990 ft.) is the best point of view.
A charming drive (there and back 2'/2 hrs. ; see p. 116) may he taken to
the beautiful estate of Fantoft, belonging to Mr. Slohr (German consul),
who usually admits visitors to the grounds (enquire beforehand in Bergen).
An old 'Stavekirke' from Fortun (p. 151) has been re- erected here in
18S4, but is freely restored (there is no trace of a Lop, or open arcade;
comp. p. 29). The pavilion higher up commands a beautiful view of the
Nordaasvand. Fantoft is about 2 M. from the rail, station of Fjesanger
(guide desirable in coming from the station). Travellers who wish to
lunch or dine in the neighbouring "Birkelund Restaurant should order
their meal beforehand by telephone.
To the bathing-resort of Solstrand, near 0.«, see p. 12J.
A pleasant trip may be taken by steamboat (thrice daily from Mural
menning, PI. C 2; fare 80 0.) to the (1 hr.) Askje*, a large island in the
Skjsergaard, to the N.W. of Bergen, where the Udsigt {Dyrteigen, V2 hr.)
commands a splendid view of the sea and coast.
20. From Bergen via Vossevangen to the Hardanger
Fjord, or to the Sognefjord.
Kailwav ('Vossebane') to Vvssevangen ^ 108 Kil., in 4 hrs. 20 min.
(fares 7 kr. 70, 3 kr. 85 0.). The railway is now being continued high up
the field and is to be carried through to the Kraderen I ake (p. 44) via,
the Hallingdal. — Eoads from Vossevangen to Eide (30 Kil.) and Uhik
(51 Kil.), on the Hardanger Fjord, and to Gudvangen (48 Kil), with fast
skyds-stations.
The R.^iLW'AY (station, see p. 115; views mostly to the left)
passos throtigli a short tunnel and crosses the Store Strmn. —
2 Kil. Soiheimsviken^ the industrial S. suburb of Bergen (sec above),
lies on the bay of that name at the foot of Levstaken (see above).
We pass several small lakes. — 6 Kil. Fjesanger, with villas , on
the Nordaasuand, with its charming islets. Near the station, on the
hill to the left, is the villa of llerr Mohr, the German consul.
About 1/2 lir. farther to the S., not seen from the station, is his
estate of Fantoft (see above).
124 Route 20. GARN^S. From Bergen
8 Kil. Hop. — The train ascends to (9 Kil.~) Nestun or Nedsttun
(104 ft.; HcteL Nestun; Rail. Restaurant^ near the skyds-station of
Midttin, where marhle is quarried. Tlie high level of the line affords
a line -view across the Nestunyvand to the slopes of Ulriken.
A hvancb-iailway runs from Kestun to (20 Kil.) Os or Oseren, on the
BJerne/Jord, 1 M. from which is the large and pleasant seaside hotel of
Solstrand (two houses; English spoken; pens. 5-6 kr.), commanding a
beautiful view of the fjorii, extending to the distant Fulgefond (p. lO'l).
Excursions may be made hence to Hal^iken, the Lysekloster (p. 101), and the
Ulvenvand. — A local steamer plies between Bergen and Ose.
The train crosses the Nestun-Elv by a high bridge (views right
and left), turns to the N.E. into the pretty Langedal, ascends
rapidly, threads two tunnels, and crosses the river twice more.
15 Kil. Heldal, a little to the S. of the Grimenvand. Two tunnels.
Beyond the Haukelands- Vand we reach (18 Kil.) Huukeland (265 ft.),
at its N. end, the highest point on the line. In descending thence
we overlook the brawling stream which issues from the lake.
25 Kil. Arne (65 ft.), with a church, at the S. end of the
Arnevaag, a narrow branch of the Serfjord.
29 Kil. Garnaes (65 ft. ; Rail. Restauranf), on the Serfjord. Op-
posite rises the church of Hnus on the Ostere, a large island which
bounds the Serfjord on the N. and remains in view till we reach
Staughelle. The engineering of the line on the S. bank of the Ser-
fjord is very interesting. Eleven short tunnels between Garnjes and
the next station.
39 Kil. Trengereid (60 ft.; M. Trengereid's Inn). The Gulfjeld
(3235 ft.; extensive panorama) may be ascended hence (5 hrs.,
there and back; landlord acts as guide, 4 kr.).
A post-road leads from Trengereid, passing between the Gulfjeld and
Kraaen (2145 ft.), to (11 Kil.) Aadland (Jnn, very fair), on the bay of that
name at the N. end of the Sammanger Fjord, visited twice weekly by a
steamer from Bergen. Row to T0sse, and walk thence to Norheimsund,
see p. 105.
The train rounds the promontory, which separates the S. from
the E. arm of the Serfjord and culminates in the Hanenip (2440 ft.)
and the Raiinip (2475 ft.). Ten tunnels. Across the fjord, here
only 550 yds. broad, we still see the Oster0, on which rises the
church of Brudvtk. Above it towers the Brudviksnip (2945 ft.).
On the pretty Olsnces-0 a new school has been built. The train
crosses the Vaxdals-Elv , which has a fall above the bridge (right)
and drives a large mill lower down.
51 Kil. Vaxdal (50 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant). Five tunnels, the
longest penetrating the Hattaparti.
59 Kil. Stanghelle. The train leaves the Serfjord , crosses the
Dalevaag, skirts the W. bank of the latter, and ascends the Bals-
Elv. To the right rise steep cliffs.
^Q li.i\. Ji&le (Gullachsen's Hotel; Rail. Restaurant)., from which
a short line of rails runs to Jebseii's large cloth-factory, lies at the
mouth of the Bergsdal.
to the Hardanger Fjord. V08S. 20. Route. 125
A new '-Road, parsing through several (unuels in the rock, leads from
Dale to {6 Kil.) Foste, the highest gaard in the Bergsdal. Thence a poor
road goes on via Redland and the Lien-Saeler to the (20-22 Kil.) Hamlegre
Hotel, on the S. bank of the nnmlegrevand (1940 ft ; 8 51. in length), which
abounds in lish. Thencj to the Fikscnsund, see p. 105.
Beyond Dale the train passes through nine tunnels, one of them
the longest (1410 yds.) on the line ; charming views of the fjord be-
tween these. The train now reaches the S. bank of the Bolstad-Fjord.
78Kil.Bolstad(30 ft.; Inn), at the E. end of the fjord, enclosed
by rocky hills. — Eight tunnels. The train ascends the left bank
of the Vosse-ELv, which forms several rapids, and then skirts the
S. bank of the Evangervand, affording picturesque views of the
wooded hills on the N. side. Near Evanger, to the left, lies Fadnas,
at the entrance to the Teidal (p. 132).
88 Kil. Evanger (50 ft.; Monsen's Hotel, well spoken of), at
the head of the lake. The village with its church lies on the oppo-
site bank of the Vosse-Elv, which here enters the Evangervand.
To the S. towers the Myklethveitvete (3740 ft.), ascended from
Evanger in 2-3 hrs. (extensive view; guide, Jacob A. Evavger).
The train follows the left bank of the Vos»e-Elv, with its occa-
sional lake-like reaches, crosses it, and passes through the fifty-
second and last tunnel to (99 Kil.)Bolken, situated at the efflux of
the Vosse-Elv from the Vangsvand (148 ft.). A suspension-bridge
crosses the river to Liland's Hotel (very fair; English spoken).
Fr.m Bolken via Grime^tad and Skjeldal to the HamUgrevand and
thence on to the Fiksensund (Hardanger), see p. 105.
Skirting the N. bank of the Vangsvand, we see, to the S. , the
long crest of Graasiden (4270 ft.), with its large patches of snow.
108 Kil. VOSS. — Eailavat Station to the W. of the village, 55 ft.
above it.
Hotels. "FLEiscnER's Hotel, in an open situation outside the village
and immediately to the W. of the station, often crowded, R. 2-3. B. l-lV'ji
d^j. (12 o'cl ) 2, D. (2 p.m.) 21/2, S. (8 p.m.) 2, pen'^. 5-7 kr.-. with baths
and skyds-ftation. — To the E. of the station, in the village, Vossevangen
HoTEi., by the church, very fair, R. I'/z^'/s, B. or S. Vjz, D. 2, pens. 5 kr. ;
opposite, David Pk.t.stkgaard's, fair. R. li/4-lV2> ^- or S. I'A- !>• 2 kr. ;
Michelsen's, unpretending, at the upper end of the village, farther from
the station. — Qu;irtcrs may also be obtained in lodging-houses, indicated
by tickets. — English Church Service in the season.
Post Office neir the entrance to the village, in the street leading to
the left from tlie chemists. — Telegraph Office, with telephone, opposite
the JC. side of the church.
Carriages are usually engaged here for the whole journey to Eide.
Vlvik. or Oudvangen, to save delav in changing horses: stolkjaerre to
Eide 7 kr. 65 0., to Vlvik 13, to Staiheim 91/2, to Gudvangen 121/2 kr. —
Two horse carriages for 2, 3, 4, or 5 pers., to Eide 12, 15, 18, or 20 kr. ;
to rivik 24, 28, 32, or 36 kr. ; to Vinje 10, 12, 14, or 16 kr. ; to Opheim
12, 15, IS, or 20 kr. ; to Staiheim 16, 20, 24, or 28 kr. ; to Gudvangen 25,
30, 36, or 40 kr. (driver's fee in each case extra). The charge should be
agreed on beforehand. — Motor-cars may also be hired to Staiheim
(1 pers. 10, 2 perj. 15 kr ).
Voss or Vossevangen (177 ft.), charmingly situated at the E. end
of the Vangsvand, is suited for some stay. The stone Church, in
126 R. 20. — Map, p. 124. VOSS. From Bergen
the middle of the village, dating from 1271-76, contains memorial
tablets to pastors of the 17th and 18th cent. , a candelabrum of
1733, and a Bible of 1589. L. Holberg, the poet (p. 118), was tutor
at the parsonage in 1702. At the upper end of Voss the road
divides : left to 'Gudvangen, Sogn'; right to 'Eide, Hardanger'.
The environs of Vossevangen are admirably cultivated. Many
large farms and several pleasant villas. Although the mountains
are near, cultivation has taken more complete possession of the plain
than in almost any other part of Norway.
About 1/2 M. to the W. of Fleisclier''s Hotel, on the upper road diverg-
ing to the right from the Bergen road, is the farm of Fin, heside which
is preserved the Finneloft, a timber-house bnilt in 1300. ('Loft' or 'Bur'
is a two-storied farm-house , as opposed to the 'Stue', or house of one
story.) The lower story of Finnelottet is in the shape of a blockhouse, the
upper story in frame-work. There is no inside staircase. The interior
contains a few rustic antiquities (adm. iQ0.').
The following is a pleasant Walk of I1/2 hr. from Voss. A path
leads to the S. from the church, skirting the upper end of the Vangs-
vand and running partly through pine-woods , to the (10 min.) RundaU-
Elv, the E. discharge of the lake, which we cross by boat (5 0. each pers.).
On the left bank we ascend to the road leading uphill, and follow it
through wood and across a wooden bridge, and then in rapid curves
to (1/2 hr.) the Cafi Breidahlik , whence there is a fine view of Vosse-
vangen and its environs. — The road on the other side of the valley
continues to ascend to (3-4 Kil. from Breidahlik) Herre and (7-8 Kil.) Eogn.
The ascent of the Lanehorje (4680 ft.), to the N. of Voss, is ea'^y and
attractive (5 hrs., there and hack 8 hrs. ; guide 3 kr.). A road, diverging
from the (Sudvangen road a few yds. to the K. of the church of Vosse-
vangen, leads via Ringheim (p. 128) and Traae to the Klepfoeter. Thence a
footpath ascends over pastures and loose stones (difficult at places) to the
S.W. summit (commanding a picturesque view of Vossevangen), and then
across a slightly sloping snow field to the higher E. summit, whence the
view embraces the mountains to the N. as far as the Jostedalsbrfe, to
the E. to the Hardanger Jakul, and to the S. to the Folgefond.
Another grand view is obtained from the HondaUnul (4800 ft.), the
ascent of which also takes about 5 hrs.
From Voss, or from Bolken (p. 125), via Grimestad and Skjeldal (6 Kil. ;
road thus far) to the Hamlegrevand and on to J0stensei on the Hardanger
Fjord, see p. 105.
From Vossevangen to Eide or Ulvik on the Hardanger Fjord
(3 and 572 ^rs. drive respectively; carriages, see p. 125). — The
road crosses the Bundals-Elv and ascends its left bank, through a
beautiful wooded tract, passing several gaards. It then turns into
a side-valley and beyond the gaard of 11-12 Kil. from Vossevangen)
Male reaches its highest point (870 ft.). It then descends gradually
and crosses the boundary of the Hardanger district. The Skjerve-
Elv, flowing S., is coloured dark-brown by a number of marshy
ponds. The upper part of the valley terminates suddenly, and the
road descends in zigzags into * Skjervet, a deep and picturesque
valley enclosed by imposing rocks. On the left the Skjervefos
descends in two halves, the upper resembling a veil. The road
crosses a bridge between the two parts of the fall. Below the bridge
is the Caf6 Fosheim. Rich vegetation. Many old moraines.
to Eide. GRAVENSVAND. MiTp, p. 10'2. — 20. B. 127
22 Kil. (pay for 25 in the reverse direction) 0vre Vasendcn
or Seim (NsBsheim's Hotel, very fair, D. Vj^ kr.) is situated at the
N. end of the Gravensvand, and commands a fine view of the entire
lake and of the massive Nasheimshorgen (3250 ft.) to the S.W. To
the S. the Oxen (p. 106) becomes visible.
The road to Eide skirts the E. bank of the lake, leaving to the
left both branches of the new road to Ulvik (see below) and also
the Gravens-Kirke. Farther on the road is carried along wooden
viaducts or has been hewn in the rock immediately overhanging the
lake. We pass Nedre Vasenden, at the lower end of the Gravensvand,
traverse a rocky defile, and reach —
8 Kil. Eide (see p. 106) after 3 hrs.' drive from Voss.
From 0vre Vasenden to Ulvik is a charming drive of 8 hrs.
or walk of 41/2 hrs. (times given below refer to walking). The
road diverges to the left from the Eide road about ^/ihr. from Nffls-
heim's Hotel and ascends in windings. Beyond a stone bridge over
a brook flowing into the Gravensvand it is joined by the branch
from the Gravens-Kirke (S.), which is used by travellers coming
from Eide. Walkers may cut off the next long bend. The road
continues to ascend the valley, above the left bank of the stream.
After 3/4 hr. the farm of Dale, on the opposite side of the valley,
is passed. About 20 mln, farther on, at a point where the Skavs-
karnut rises to the left and the water of a marshy brook flows down
both sides of the ridge, we obtain a fine view of the Vasfjaeren
(p. 116), between the Soienut (1.) and the Kjarringfjeld (r.). In
front lies the Espelandsvand (1125 ft.), the N. shore of which the
road now skirts, passing the Espelandsgaard. To the left, in the
depression between the Skavskarnut and the Sotenut, is a fine
waterfall, the outflow of which is crossed by the road. As we near
the foot of the Espelandsvand the snow-clad ridge of the Onen
(p. Ill) appears in tlie background to the right. Beyond the
Espelandsvand lies the little Siokkevand, drained by the Tyssaa,
which we cross about 1 hr. after beginning the descent. To the right
diverges a road for the Leining-Sakr. The main road continues in
a straight direction along the right bank, crossing to the left bank
at (20 min.) a saw-mill and recrossing in 20 min. more. Below
the latter bridge the river forms the pretty Verafos and throws
itself into a deep ravine. The Vasfjaeren again appears in front,
above the wooded foot-hills. In 1/4 hr. more we suddenly come
upon an enchanting *View of the Ulviksfjord and the mountains
around it. Below lies the church of Ulvik. The road descends the
Hyllaklev in wide curves, some of which the pedestrian may cut oft',
and again crosses (3/4 hr.) to the left bank of the Tyssaa, which
forms a fine fall (saw-mill).
29 Kil. (32 Kil. from Eide) Vlvik (^see p. 114).
128 R. 20. — Maps, pp. 102, 130. STALHEIM. From Vo»s
From VossEVANGEN to Gudvangen on theSognefjord, 48Kil.,
a drive of 5-6 hrs. (carriages, see p. 126); part of the road also
afi'ords pleasant walking. — The road ascends gradually, passes
under the railway, and skirts the W. side of the Lundarvand. On
the left (above), 2 Kil. from Voss, is the gaard ot Ringheim (p. 12(5).
A rich wooded and grassy region. To the left towers the abrupt t^ne-
horje (p. 126), on the right the horn-shaped Hondalsnut (p. 126),
behind us Gnmsiden (p. 125). We pass the small Melsvand, on
the opposite bank of which we observe the gaard of Dukstad (past
which comes another road from Voss, joining the main road at
Tvinde), and also the Lenevand, 4 Kil. long. By the gaard of Lene,
where the road runs close to the lake, we see (left) the Lenefos,
which descends from the Lenehorje and turns a saw-mill. The
road then ascends the Vossestrands-Elv , the feeder of the two lakes.
A new iron bridge, to the right, leads over this stream to the gaard
of Grotland.
12 Kil. Tvinde or Tvinne i Voss (310 ft. ; Tvinde's Hotel, very
fair). On the left is the fine *Tvlndefos. The road becomes steeper.
The valley is enclosed by lofty wooded slate rocks. About 2 Kil.
above Tvinde the Vossestrands-Elv forms a picturesque fall, across
which the road is carried by the Ashrcehke-Bro (435 ft. ; we descend
a few paces to see the fall, using caution). About 4 Kil. farther
up, the road returns to the right bank of the stream. It next crosses
two copious torrents descending from side-valleys on the left. The
second of these, about 2/3 M. from Vinje, is the Merkadals-Elv,
along which a path leads via Aarmot to Vik on the Sognefjord
(10-12 hrs.; p. 132). The valley expands.
10 Kil. Vinje i Vossestranden (735 ft. ; Vinje's Hotel, very fair,
R. 1, B. 1, D. 2, S. l'/4 kr.), in a pleasant situation, not far from
the Vinje- Kirke.
The road ascends the course of the river, through a ravine,
to the S.W. end of the (3 Kil. from Vinje) Opheimsvand (955 ft.;
*Framnas Hotel, R. 11/2-2, D. 2, B. 1 kr. 40, S. 1 kr. 50 0. ; Engl.
Oh. Serv. in Aug.), a lake abounding in fish, and skirts its N.W.
bank. Above the wooded hills of the opposite bank tower mountains
of grey crystalline rock, presenting a curious picture. To the S.
rises the Malmagrensnaave (3610 ft.). The church of Opheim is
prettily situated on the lake, about 4 Kil. from Vinje.
Beyond the Opheimsvand the road crosses the watershed be-
tween the Bolstad-Fjord and the Sognefjord. On the right, the
Aaxeln; then, the Knldafjeld (4265 ft.). We follow the left bank
of the Naredals-Elv, which descends to the Sognefjord, and finally
ascend in a curve, high above the stream, to the —
**Stalheims-Klev (1120 ft.), 14 Kil. from Vinje, 12 Kil. from
Gudvangen, a precipitous rock about 800 ft. high, forming the head
of the Nceredal, which descends on the W. to Gudvangen. The
Hotel on the top, destroyed by fire in 1902, was rebuilt on the
to the Sognefjord. OPS.IilT. Map, p. W2. — 20.R. 129
cottage system in tlie summer of 1903. The view hence of the deep
and sombre Njer«dal and the huge mountains enclosing it, especially
by afternoon-light, is considered one of the grandest in Norway.
On the left is the commanding Jordalsnut {3(^10 ft.; p. 138), on
the right are the KaUhifjeld and Aaxeln (p. 128), all of light-
grey syenite rock. In the distance the background of the valley is
formed by the hill from which the Kilefos near Gudvangen descends
(p. 138). We also enjoy a fine view, looking to the S., of the broad
valley towards Opheim. The river descending thence forms the
Stalheimsfos, which, however, does not come in sight until we
descend into the Nacradal (p. 138).
The hill rising to the IS'.W. of the hotel is the Stal/ieimsmit, to the E. of
which a green dale runs towards the N., traver.= ed by a narrow road.
Friim (10 min.) Brakke, the first gaard in this vailey, a fine mountain
path, called 'Naaltne^ diverges to the right, and is well worth following
for V- ^r. The Naalene fir.-t descends a litile, then crosses the bridge
over the gorge whence issues the Sivlefos (p. 139), and leads along the
heights, with a charming view of the ravine of Stalheim. Ihe path goes
on to the gaard. Jordal, from which the Joidalsnut may be ascended (with
guide: Anders Olsen Gudvangen or Ole Myren). — The Brcekkenipa , as-
cended in 3 hrs., there and back (guide 3 kr.), is a fine point of view.
There is no skyds-station at Stalheim, but conveyances may
:ilways be had (^1 pers. 2 kr. 55 , 2 pers. 3 kr. 83 e.). The steep
curves into the valley should be descended on foot. The road to
Gudvangen (see p. 138) affords a pleasant ramble of 2Y4-23/4 hrs.
From Vossevangen to Fbetheim on the Sognefjoru. This
route v.-ill probably become popular on tl'.e completion of the railway
to Vatnahalsen. At present it takes II/2 day, aud the middle portion
must be traversed on foot. — The road diverges to the left from the
Hardanger road (p. 126) and ascends through the Rimdal or Raundal,
on the right bank of the Rxind'ils-Eh\ frequently intersecting the
railway. Part of the route, the old 'Sverresti' by which King Sverre
and his THrkebcner' (p. 1) are said to have crossed the mountains
in 1177, is very hilly. To the right rises the Horndalsnut (p. 126).
Before and beyond (lOKil.) Klyve. with its old Tofthus' (see p. 126),
we cross the railway, then thread a picturesque ravine, traverse
wood, and again skirt the railway. Beyond Skjeple (1233 ft.) v.e
once more cross the railway and pass the gaards of Brekke, Reime,
and Hcgg. Near Kggereid (1850 ft. ; 30 Kil. from Yossevangen) we
cross the railway for the last time ai\d follow the new road below
it. passing Almindiri'ien. Klevene, tlie Lange Vcnid, and the small
Runde Varid.
47 Kil. (a drive of G'/o-^ hrs. from Voss) Opsaet (2850 ft. ; Op-
scft's H'^tel, unpretending, K., B., or S. 1 kr.), with the dwelling of
tlie engineers engaged in the construction of the railway and several
cottages for the navvies. (Tliose who wish to drive hence to Voss
must telephone to Vos* for skyds.) Close by is the W. entrance of
the tunnel, upwards of 3 M. in length, which was driven through the
Baedekee's I^orway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 9
130 Route '21. SOGNEFJORD,
Gravahals in 1897-1902 for the passage of the Bergen and Christiania
Railway.
From Opsset by the Slotidah-Saiire, on the Slondalsvand, then past the
Brione-Smter and over tUe watershed to the Solsivand and on to Ulvik
(p. 114), 8V'2-9V2 hrs. (a toilsome sftter-track).
From Opsset we proceed to Vatnahalsen (3-31/2 hrs.) by a foot-
path, which at places is boggy and unpleasant. It traverses a bleak
mountain-region, passing a few lakes, to (ca. 2 hrs.) the top of the
pass crossing the Gravehals (3720 ft.). The stony and winding de-
scent passes over some siiow-flelds. At (8/4 hr.) the fork (to the
left the way to Kaardal, p. 140) we follow the right branch (finger-
post), which leads along the slope. In 1/0 hr. we cross a foot-bridge
over the Myrdals-Elv, near the E. mouth of the tunnel. Hence we
follow the new road to (1/4 hr.) —
Vatnahalsen (2625 ft.-, Vatnahalsen s Hotel, very fair, R. 2,
B. or S. 11/2, D- 21,2 kr.), with a fine view of both sides of the
valley. This will probably become a great tourist-centre on the
opening of the railway. A short way up the valley- is the small
Reinungvand, the outflow of which forms the Kjosfos.
The road skirting the Reinungvand leads to (16 Kil.) HalUngsskeiet
(p. 49), whence it is to be continued to the Hallingdal.
From Vatnahalsen to (19 Kil.) Fretheim, on the Aur lands fjord,
a downhill walk of 21/0 hrs., see p. 139.
21. The Sognefjord.
The distance by sea from Bergen to LcerdaUeren at the E. end of the
fjord (starting-point of the routes to Christiania through the Valders and
through the Hallingdal , KR. 8, 7) is 31 Is^orwegian sea-miles in a .straight
direction. The Steamboats perform the voyage in 1572-24 hrs., according
to the number of stations called at. These vessels are well fitted np and
have good restaurants (B. 1 kr. 40 0., D. 2 kr.), but their berths are
limited. Those who have to spend a night on board should lose no time
in securing a sofa or a stateroom. — Comp. p. xviii.
The * Sognefjord (from the old word 'Sogne', a narrow arm of
the sea), the longest of all the Norwegian fjords, measures 180 Kil.
(112 m.) from Sognefest to Skjolden, averages 6 Kil. (4 M.) in
width, and is nearly 4000 ft. deep at places. Like all the other
fjords, it is unattractive at its entrance, where the rocks have been
worn smooth, partly by the action of the waves, and partly by the
enormous glaciers which once covered the whole country. The
scenery improves as we go E., until the fjord ends in a number of
long narrow arms, with banks rising abruptly at places to 5000 ft.,
from which waterfalls descend. At the heads of the N. branches
of the fjord appear the glaciers covering the plateau. The
JosiedalsbrcF ('Brs', glacier), to the N., is the largest glacier in
Europe (350 sq. M.). In other parts of the fjord the narrow banks
present a smiling character, being fringed with luxuriant orchards
and waving corn-fields, and studded with pleasant dwellings. In
■im> 1-/-^ A F
^issi "Ji1^^^*"''^"'\-
SOGNEFJORD. 21. Route. 131
tlie grandeur of its mountains and glaciers tlie Sognetjord surpasses
the Hardanger, tut its general character is severe and at places
monotonous, while its southern rival unquestionably carries off the
palm for its softer scenery and its splendid waterfalls.
The Climate of the W. Sognefjord, as far as the point where its
great ramifications begin, is the same as that of the W. coast, being
rainy and mild in winter and damp and cool in summer. Nowhere in
Norway is the rapid decrease of the rainfall from W. to E. so marked
as in the Sognefjord. At Sognefest, at the entrance to the fjord (sec
below), the annual rainfall is about 80 inches, on the Fjserlands-
fjord (56 M. from the coast) bO, on the Nffirafjord ( 70 M.) 31, on the
Lysterfjord (SO M.) 19, and at Leerdal (87 M.) 16 inches only. In
these E. arms the climate resembles that of inland European coun-
tries, a short and warm summer being succeeded by a long and
severe winter. In winter, however, these arms are only partly
frozen over.
The following description generally follows the order of the
stations touched at by the Nordre Bergenhusamts steamers, but
their route varies on different trips. There are two lines of steamers,
one starting from Bergen , the other confining itself to the fjord.
The distances of the chief stations from each other are given in
Norwegian sea-miles (comp. p. vi).
a. The W. Sognefjord, to Balholm at the mouth of the
Fjserlandsfjord.
Steamboat from Bergen to Balholm 5 times a week in IOI/2-I3V2 hrs.
(fare 10 kr. 20 0.); to Vadheim only, 8-IO1/2 lirs. {T kr. 70 0.; to Lferdal,
12 kr. 60 0.); from Vadheim to Balholm, 4 kr. The fjord-steamer (see above)
plies twice weekly from Vadheim.
Bergen, see p. 115. The voyage to the mouth of the Sognefjord
is of little interest. It carries us through the 'Skjaergaard' fringing;
the district of Nord-Horiand, which with S^nd-Horland (p. 100)
formed the ancient Herdafylke. The low and generally bare hills
in the foreground have been worn down by the glaciers of the ice
period; in the distance rises a higher chain. The steamer threads
some very narrow straits.
•The first stations Alverstrem and Lygren are rarely touched at.
More important isSkjarjehavn, at the N. end of the Sonde. Then,
Eivindvik or Evenvik, on the small Gulenfjord, the ancient meeting-
place of the Ouliithhig. This was one of the four great Norwegian
'Things' (Frostuthing, Gulathing, Borgarthing, and Eidsifathing)
suppressed by King Magnus Lagabeter (p. li).
At the mouth of the Sognefjord lie tlie Sulen-0er, the 'Sol-
undare' of Frithjof's Saga, a groxip of islands with hills rising to
1830 ft. (about 5 Kil. to the left of the steamboat).
On the mainland, to the right, lies the station of Sognefest or
Sygnefest, to the E. of which rises the Stanglandsfjeld.
d*
132 R.2l. — Maj>,p.l30. V]K. Sognefjord.
On the N. bank we observe the Lihest (2275 ft.). On the same
bank are the stations of Befjord or Lervik and, beyond the pro-
montory of Varholm, Ladvik or Lavik, the chief place in the W. Sogn
district, with a church.
On the S. bank lie Brakke, on the small RL'efjord, and Tradal
or Tredal, on the Eikefjord, at which the steamers call alternately
with the stations on the N. bank just named.
The scenery improves. The mountains become higher. We
enter the pleasant Vadheimsfjord on the N. bank and call at —
19 S.M. (from Bergen) Vadheim (^Vadhelm's Hotel, fair, R., B.
or S. 11/2 kr.), situated at the mouth of two valley?, through one of
which ("W.) runs the o\erland route to the Nordfjord (K. 24). The
veranda of the inn overlooks the fjord. To the W. is a waterfall
with a group of houses adjacent, above which rises the Norevikshei.
On the S. side of the fjord, opposite the Vadheimsfjord, opens
the picturesque Fuglsatfjord^ with the station oi Bjordal, called at
once weekly, and the pyramidal Graafjcld.
On the rocky N. bank lies the pleasant village of Kirkebe^ with
its church, near the mouth of the Hejangsfjord, past which we
steer. Then Maaren, prettily situated, with a waterfall, and the
small Lom'fjord. Next, Nase, or Nesse, and Sage, with a fine
waterfall.
On the S. bank lie Ortnevik and Sylvarn(r)> or Selvarnaes ; then
Neset, on the Arne fjord , with its fine mountain-background. At
these places the steamers usually call once a week only.
As we steer farther K., the beauty of the scenery becomes more
striking. The mountains, rising to upwards of 3000 ft., assume
picturesque forms and are clothed with vegetation to their summits,
while between them peep occasional expanses of snow. The steamers
call at Kvamse on the N. bank once weekly. They next steer to
the S., round a promontory at the mouth of the small bay of Vik,
where we observe a 'Gilje' and other salmon-flshing appliances, to —
7 S.M. Vik or Vikseren {Hopstock, very fair), lying in a fertile
region at the mouth of two valleys, the Bodnl on the W. and the
Ofriddal on the E., with its branch the Seljedal. Snow-mountains
form the background; to the E. rises Rambteren fp. 136). The old
churches of Iloperstad and Hove, the former a 'stavekirke' (p. 29)
of the early 13th cent., both restored in 1891, are interesting. In
the neighbourhood is a large military exercise-ground.
From Vik we may drive inlimd about 8 Kil. in any one of three different
directions, in order to cross one of the mountain-passes (about 8hrs. each):
to Slalheim (p. 128; the last part of the route passing the Jordalsnut,
fatiguing tjnt interesting); or to Yinje i Vossestranden (p. 128; part of
the road before Aarmoi is entirely destroyed, a ferious consideralion for
indiflerent walkers, but we may drive the last 11 Kil. fiom Aarmot onwards,
passing the Jlyrkedalsvand); or to Gulhraa in the Exingdal (with guide)
and on to Ncesheim (nightquarters at Jac. Larsen's), tlience proceeding
next day over the fjeld to (about 10 \\.\\.') Aarhxis i Tcidalen, whence a car-
riage-road descends the Teidalio Fadnces on the Evangervrnd (p. 125).
Sognefjcrd. BALHOLM. Map,p. J30. — 21 . U. 138
The Sognefjord here tunis at a right angle to the N. In the dis-
tance, even from Vik, we observe the Vetlefjordsbrse (p. loi). The
passage to Balholm takes about 3/^ hr. On our right lies Vangsnas,
on a promontory where the fjord again turns towards the E. The
W. bank being the supposed scene of Frithjof s Saga, as rendered
by Tegne'r, Vangsnres is siid to have beeii Fritlijof's Framnas.
2 iS.M. Balholin. — Hotels [ illen over-crowdedj. "Kvikne's Hotel,
nearest the pier, with a fiood bath-house on the lake, R. 2-3, B. l'/-..,
D. 2V4 S. iV'-j kr. ; "Hotel Balestkand, a few yards farther on, also with
bath-house, a trifle cheaper. — Physician, Dr. Groth, between the two
hotels. — Boats may be obtained at the hotels (50 0. per hr.). — English
Church Service in summer.
Balholm, the chief place on the fertile and highly cultivated
Baltitrand, is beautifully situated to the S. of the mouth of the
small Essefjord. Its well-wooded environs (numerous apple and
pear trees), the view over the wide Sognefjord, and the many
pleasant walks make it a desirable residence; and it is frequented
by numerous British, Norwegian, and German guests.
A pleasant and well-made road, overlooking the fjord, leads
from the hotels, past the English Church of St. 0/«/'(1897j and
several houses, to a (^ /o M.) mound, with a large birch-tree and
a modern 'bautasten', pointing it out as the tomb of King Bele of
the Frithjofs Saga. The road goes on, shaded at places by tall
trees, past the villas of the painters A. Norman and Hans Dahl.
About 1/2 M. beyond the latter, on the bank to the left, is a Lax-
varp for catching salmon. Kefreshments (beer, wine, e'c.) may be
obtained at the adjacent Hygea chalet. The road ends at (3 M. from
the hotels J the farm of Flesje, situated among trees on the Ijord.
Another pleasant walk may be taken to the W. from the pier
along the *Efsefjord to (^'o hr.) the bridge over the stream issuing
from the Essedal; or we may take a row (2-3 hrs.) on the fjord,
which is surrounded by a noble series of mountains : to the N. the
Toten (4610 ft.; ascended in 8 hrs.), then the Furunipa, separated
by the sharp ridge of Kjeipen from the snow-clad Guldaple; farther
on, the Vindregyen (3808 ft.) and the Gjeiteryggen ; and to the S.W.
the Munkeg (4135 ft. ; ascent 12 hrs.).
A wide prospect is alTorded by the top of the hill above the
Bale-Sitter, reached in II/4 hr. by a footpath, whicli is at places
steep and stony. About 75 yds. beyond the Bele mound (see
above) we proceed to the riglit across the meadow, between the
houses. We do not cross the stremi but ascend on its left bank,
traversing bru.shwood above the last houses and ascending to tlie
right beyond the fence. The best point of view is about ^j-yXn. above
the Bale-Sa'ter.
Opposite Balholm, to the N., on the other side of the mouth of
the Essefjord , rises the prettily situated church oi Tjugum. The
good road, which leads to it from the landing-place, ascends past
134 E.21. — Map,p.l30. BALHOLM. Sognefjord.
the parsonage, and, 'beyontl (1/4 br.) a path descending to the right,
continues for some distance at the same level, affording a charming
*View of the Fjaerlandsfjord and across the Vetletjord with the
Jostedalsbrse in the background.
From Balholm to Sande i Holmedal (two days). 1st Day. By rowing-
boat to the gaard of Svceren at the head of the Svcerefjord (see below; toler-
able quarters) ; we then ascend the valley gradually for about 3 Kil. ; mount
a steep and rough path to the pass of Svcerskard (2300 ft.), where we get a
fine view looking back to the Sognefjord; ascend a steep and marshy slope
to the watershed; descend past the Torenws Scc-ter (5 hrs. from Svseren) to
the Holme-Vand in the Viksdal; then through a good deal of wood, past
the Laiiffe-Swter, across the river, and over marshy ground to Mjell (8-10 hrs.
from SvBPren). — 2nd Day. From Mjell bridle-path to the gaard of Jlof; then
down the Eldal to EldaUeren on the Yikivatid (p. 17(5) -, cross by boat to
Eorsevik, and walk thence by the road to Sande (p. 178; in all, 3-4 hrs.
on foot and 1^/4 hr. by boat).
The most beautiful excursion from Balholm is to the *Fjaer-
landsfjord, which runs inland towards the N. (fjord-steamer from
Balholm to Fjserland four times a week in 2-3 hrs.). Tliis fjord is
26 Kil. long, nearly 2 Kil. broad in its S. and 1 Kil. in its N.
half. Its banks are less precipitous than those of the Nseriefjord
(p. 137). The entrance is commanded by the Toten (p. 133) on
the left and the Storhaug (1210 ft.) and Trodalseg (3646 ft.) on
the right.
To the left diverges a broad bay of the fjord , dividing into the
Svierefjord and the beautiful Vetlefjord. The steamer calls once a
•week at Vlvestad, at the head of the Vetlefjord.
From Ulvestad a road ascends the valley to Mell, where we see the
Vetlefjovdshrce descending from the Jostedalsbra?. The MeUnipa (see below)
to the E. and the Gotopfjeld or GotophesteH (5650 ft.) to the N. are said
to command superb views. — From Jlell a toilsome mountain-route leads
to the gaard Grening, near Haukedal (p. 180; 7-8 hrs., with guide).
After the steamer has rounded the promontory of Menas we
observe on the right, above the Rommedal, the Rommehest (4110 ft.;
ascent said to be easy), and on the left the Harevoldsnipa (5360 ft.)
and the Melsnipa (5800 ft.), separated from the Jorddalsnipa by the
Jorddalsdal, behind which appear the snow-fields of the JostedaLs-
braB. We now obtain a *Vie\v of the head of the fjord with its
snowy background, a grand example of characteristically Norwegian
scenery. The glaciers of the Suphellebrae come into sight first, then
those of the Bejumsbrae in the background ; but as we approach the
Mundal, the latter again disappears. On the right lies the gaard of
Berge, at the mouth of the Bergedal. (To Sogndal, see p. 137.)
3 S.M. Fjserland (*Hotel Mundal, R. 1V2-2, B. or S. 1% D.
2 kr. ; Engl. Ch. Serv. in summer), the steamboat-terminus, lies
at the entrance to the broad Mundal, in which the Jostedalsbrae is
seen. A granite stone recalls King Oscar II. 's visit in 1879.
A visit to the glaciers which descend, a little to the N. of Fjaer-
land , into the Beijumsdal and the Suphelledal, two valleys separ-
ated by the Skeidsnipa, is interesting. We may drive the greater
part of the way (stolkjaerre there and back in 3 hrs., one pers. 3,
Sognefjord. B0JUMSBR.^. Map,p. 13II. — 21. R. 135
two pers. 4 kr. ; to both glaciers and back, 6 lirs., 5 or 6 kr.~). The
road skirts the W. bauk of the fjord, at the end of which, on a hill
to the right, is the gaard oi Uorpedalen, with an Impetuous stream.
To the left, farther on, we look into the Bejumsdal, with the Joste-
dalsbrae in the background. About 4 Kil. from Fjaerland the road
into this valley diverges to the left, while that to the Suphelledal
crosses the brook and goes straigbt on.
To the *B«jumsbr8e, the grander of the two glaciers, it is a walk
of 13 4 hr. from the fork of the road. The carriage-road ascends the
right loank of the stream, passing between the houses ol Bejums-
fustene and 0de fjord, and ends at the Bejums-Sceter (restaurant);
thence we ascend on foot and cross the stream in '/2 5^'. to the
glacier, the foot of which lies 450 ft. above the fjord.
The*StoreSuphellebr8e is also ISy^hr. from the fork of the road.
The road crosses the Bejums-Elv and ascends the Suphelledal, past
the Suphelle Gaard, to the (13/4 M.) end of the glacier. The stream
issues from a great vault in the glacier, 152 ft. above the fjord. About
480 ft. above its base a rock divides the glacier into two parts. Of
these the upper only is united with the Jostedalsbra; the lower part
is formed of accumulated masses of ice which have fallen over the
rock. The roar of the ice-avalanches is frequently heard.
The Vettle Suphellebrae, or Little Suphelle Olacier, is said to have the
finest ice. This is reached by taking the path to the riuht 5 min. to the
N. of the Suphelle Oaard, crossing the broad Elv, and then traversing the
fallen rocks, which extend as far as the ('2 hrs.) glacier. — A fatiguing
e.\pedition may be made hence (guide and provisions necessary) to (S'/s-
4 hrs.) the V'eilestranclssiar , then down the Snauedal to the gaard of
fStelen, where the Snauedal joins the valley beginning at the Veitestrands-
vand, and finally down the latter valley to (4V:;-5 hrs.) Nordre Nas, at the
N. end of the Veiteslr<indsvcind (p. 142).
Grand passc! from l-jarland lead across the JostedaUbree to Jolster
fp. 180), in 9-10 hrs. (guide 10 kr.). Skirting the Bejumsbrse, we ascend
the Jakohhakkadn by a recently improved path to the glacier in 2V2 hrs.,
cross the latter (rope necessary) via its highest point, Vae, Kvitevarde, descend
to (IV2-2 hrs.) the Troldvand, and Unally follow a steep and rough foot-
path, over loose stones and boulders, traversing the wild ravine of the Lun-
deskar, to a mountain-valley enclosed by precipitous dills and to (41/2 hrs.)
Lunde (p. 180j. An alternative and better route from the Troldvand leads
through the Seknetandtskar , round the Seknesandmipa (4965 ft.), to Sek-
nesand on the Kj0sn8esfjord (p. 180). — From Fjserland we may also walk
direct up the Mundal , pass between the Jostedalsbrse and the Jostefond.
and finally (;i8 above) de.«cend through the S0knesandsskar, to the W. ot
the S^knesandsnipa, to (10-12 hrs.) Seknesand.
Guides in Fjwrland : Johi Mundal, Ilant Bejiim, Henrik ihtndal, Mikkel
S, Mundal, and Anders T. Mundal.
b. From Balholm to Gudvangen. Aurlandsfjord and Nser^rfjord.
The Fjord Stkamer (p. 131) plies from Balholm to Gudvangen in
S'/zhrs. (fare 4kr.), but touches (with the occasional exception of Lekanger)
at none of the intermediate stations mentioned below. The details as far
as the Aurlandsfjord (pp. 136, 137) have reference to the course of the
large Bergen steamers between Balholm and Lferdal.s0ren (p. 141).
Balholm, see p. 133. — Fine retrospect of the Balestrand, with
the Langedalsbrae in the background. The first station of the Bergen
136 R.21.—Map,p.l30. LEKANGER. Sogn^fjord.
steamers is Vanysnas (p. 133). The steamer skirts tlie S. bank of
tlie fjord, above which rise imposing mountains. To the N. is the
Bluafjelcl, from which a waterfall descends.
On theS. bank is the station of Fedjos or Fejos (with a church),
whence, through the Gulsatdal , we may ascend Rambaren
(5260 ft.), affording a grand view of the Jostedalsbrje and the fjord
(those who do not care to mount so high may go as far as the
Kcngshei or the Kong-svcnd , 2-3 hrs.), and the Fresvlksbra (p. 137).
21/2 S.M. (from Balholm) Lekanger or Leikanger (J. Olsen's
Hotel) lies on the Sje strand , the fertile N. bank of the fjord. To
the W. lies the gaard Husebe, with a lofty 'bautasten'. To the E.
of the steamboat-quay are the residence of the 'Amtmand', the par-
sonage, and the churcli ; farther on is the gaard of Henjtim, with
a 'Stue' (wooden house) of the 17th century.
1/2 S-M- Hermansvserk (Knudsen's Hotel) lies at the mouth of
the Henjunisdal, through which a day's excursion may be taken to
thie N. to the Qunvordshra (5150 ft.).
The fjord- steamer (p. 131) steers direct for the mouth of the
Aurlandstjord (p. 137). — The Bergen steamers first enter the
narrow Norefjord to the E. On the left are the gaards of Lunden
and Slinde (boat-station sometimes touched at). On the right is
Fimreite, on a fertile hill, commanded by the mountain of that name
(2570 ft.). On loth June, 1184, Magnus Erlingssan was defeated
and slain here in a naval battle by King Sverre. To the left is the
church of Olmheim. — Rounding the peninsula of Nordmes, a spur
of the Skriken (see below), we enter the Sogndalspord^ with smil-
ing and well-cultivated banks. On the left lies the gaard of Far-
dal (touched at on the return from Sogndal), at the mouth of the
0verste Dal or 0fste Dal. On the right rises the Storhougfjdd
(4235 ft.). To the left is the gaard Stedje or Steie (inn), with its
thriving orchards.
3 S.M. Sogndal (Dunielsen's Hotel, fair; skyds-station at the
gaard of Fjarn), consisting of the numerous gaards of Sogndalakirke,
Hofslund, and Soyndalsfjccren, is charmingly situated on an old
moraine through which the Soyndals-Elv has forced a passage, and
amidst lofty mountains: the Storhouyfjeld, to the S. (see above;
easily ascended and affording a fine view); Skriken (41 15 ft.), to the
S.W.; and Njuken (3200 ft., to the N. ; easily ascended in 31/2 hrs.).
Pleasant walk on the bank of the river to the Waterfall, with its
mills, and then to the S. to the pretty new church, a 'bautasten'
beside which bears the Runic inscription: '■Olafr konun.gr saa itt
mille staina thessa^ {i.e. 'King Olaf looked from between these
stones'). We may then follow the road to Stedje (see above), with
its two large 'Kjempehouge' ('giant tumuli'), whence we may return
to Sogndalsfjteren by boat (an excursion of 1 hr. in all).
Fkom Sogndal to Solvorn (14 Kil. ; pay for 19) ok to MARiFJiEKEN
(22 Kil.; pay fur 2Sj, by carriage iu 3 and 5" hrs. respedively, while the
steainbiiat does not reach these places for 12 or 14 hrs. (cunip. p. 141).
.'^oynefjord. FRKSVIK. Map, p. 130.— 21. li. 137
Tlie sceucry is most attraclive, but until the completion of the new road
the excursion is i-ecommended to pedestrians only.
FuoM SoGKDAL TO Fj^uLAXi) (12-15 hrs.). A tolerable road ascends from
Sogndal to the Sogndalsvand (1500 It.) and runs along its E. bank to aaard
Selseng (17 Kil.). To the W. opens the Gunvorddal , with a small sana-
torium. From Selseng we may ascend T>iorsladnakken (5250 ft.; imposing
view of the mountains to the E. of the Fjtcrlandsfjord and of the Joste-
dalsbra;; to the E., the Horunger in clear weather). — From Selseng
we may ascend the Langedal. passing several sseters, the highest of which
is called Toftahougstele, to the central of the three depressions in the
mountain, about 4130 ft. above the sea, to the left of which rise the peaks
of the Fintdnlsbfce (5165 ft.). The path then descends the Bergedal to
Gaard Bevge on Ihc Fjserlandsfjord (p. 131), from which we row in 1 hr.
to (6 Kil.) Fjiirland.
The steamer returns to the great highway of the Sognefjord,
passes the promontories of Mcisen and Hensene, and steers either
to the E. direct to Laerdal (p. 141 ), or to the S. to —
3 S.M. Fresvik (indifferent quarters), situated on a bay formed
hy the projecting hill of Auten, and commanded on the S. by the
Nonhauy ('non' is 2 p.m., the time when the sun appears above the
hill). Fine view looking back on Lekanger, with the Gunvordsbrae
rising above it. A visit to the Fresviksbra on the Fresvlksfjeld
(5145 it. I, 8-9 Kil. from Fresvik, is said to be attractive.
From Fresvik through the Tundal and across the hills to the Jovdal
;.nd Sfalheim (p. 128) takes fully 8 hr-!.
The fjord -steamers to Gudvangen and twice a week also the
Bergen steamers, after leaving Fresvik, steer to the S. between the
promontories of SallkjelncFS and Solstices into the *Aurlaiidsfjord, an
enormous ravine about l^/'oKil. broad, with precipitous rocky banks,
3000-4000 ft. high, forming the slopes of higher mountains which
are rarely visible from the lake. At a few spots only dwellings
have been erected on the alluvial deposits ('Ur', 'Aur') of a stream,
or are perched high above the lake on some apparently inaccess-
ible rock. From these abrupt slopes descend lofty waterfalls, either
perpendicularly, or \u streaks of foam gliding over the dark-brown
rock, and reflected in the sombre fjord. Their monotonous murmur
alone breaks the profound silence of the scene.
Beyond the Solstices we observe on the left the buildings of
Buoie, with a 'slide' for shooting down timber. On the right is
Simlencfs ; farther on, the Fyssefos. Then, on the left, Brednas or
Breitices, beyond which we pass the mouth of the valley of the
Kolar-Klv. — To tiie left, by the promontory of Nitretices, we obtain
a superb view of the upper Aiirlandsfjord, with its vista of rocky
headlands (p. 139). The IJergen steamers enter this fjord, see p. 139.
Passing the promontory of Beiteln, the tjord-steamer steers
into the *''Naer«rfjord, the S.W. arm of the Aurlandsfjord, and the
.grandest of all the ramifications of the Sognefjord. It is at first
about 900-1000 yds. in breadth. Soon after entering it wc see on
the right a waterfall of tlie Liryde-Eiv, nearly 1000 ft. high. Op-
posite rises the pointed Kroyeyg; then, the Gjeileyy. I'ctwecn these
138 R.';>L — Maps, pp. 113,130. OUDVANGEN. Sognefjo .
two hills, and afterwards between the Gjeitegg and the Middagsherg,
we obtain fine glimpses of the snow-clad Steganaase (p. 139) high
above. Opposite the Middagsberg, on the right, are the gaards of
Dyrdal, at the mouth of the Dyrdal. The fjord contracts to a deflle
about 200 yds. broad, bounded by perpendicular rocks. On the right,
between the Middagsberg and the Raueg, are the gaards of Styve,
endangered by the river; above them rise the snow-masses of the
(Store Brce. Several veil-like waterfalls. On the right, the Dyrduls-
fjeld. To the left, farther on, the Nissedals-Elv descends from the
Skammedalsheidn (not visible from the steamer). To the right is a
waterfall descending from the Ytre Bakken, forming a double leap
far above. The fjord then turns more to the S. We now observe the
mountains of the Nseriedal, particularly the Sjaerpenut (see below),
and to the right the waterfall of the Bakke-Elv and the small church
of Bakke, to which a good road leads from Gudvangen (a pleasant
walk, giving a singularly vivid impression of the gloomy solitude of
the fjord ; ca. 2 hrs. there and back). Farther on several waterfalls
are seen on both sides ; the last one (left) is the Kilefos (see below).
4 S.M. (from Fresvik; 8 from Balholm) Gudvangen. — Hotels
(a few minutes from the steamboat-pier). Vikingvang Hotel, with caf(5
and restaurant, English spolcen, R. 2, B. or S. IV2, D. 2 kr. ; Hansen's
Hotel, well spoken of (landlord speaks a little English). — English Church
Service in the season.
Conveyances to Stalheim (I'/j hr.) usually await the arrival of the
steamer: skyds for 1 pers. 2 kr. 55, 2 pers. 3 kr. £5 er. ; there and back,
incl. stay at the foot of the Stalheimsklev, 5 or 7 kr. ; caleschvogn for
2-4 pers. 20 kr. The excursion is also recommended to pedestrians,
especially the descent from the 'Kiev' to Gudvangen (2V2-2V4 hrs.). The
view from the top is most favourable by afternoon-light. — Those bound
for Vossevangen may obtain good nightquarters at Framnses, Vinje, and
Tvinde. The distance from Stalheim to Vinje is 14 Kit.
Gudvangen is a group of gaards at the head of the Naereffjord,
at the influx of the Naredals-ELv. The moiintains enclosing the
ravine are so lofty and abrupt that this little hamlet does not see
the sun throughout the whole winter. On the E. rises the Sjarpe-
nut, on the W. the Solbjergenut. From the Kilsbotten, to the N. of
the former, comes the * Kilefos, a waterfall 1840 ft. in height, be-
ginning with a leap of 500 ft. ; to the right of it are the small
HestncBsfos and Nautefos, whose waters unite below.
The picturesque *N8er«rdal, the landward continuation of the
fjord, preserves the same wild character. About 1/2 ^^^- from Gud-
vangen the road crosses a great 'Aur' (p. 137) and the clear river,
on the right bank of which lies the gaard oi Sjarping. To the right
towers the huge Jordalsnut (3610 ft. ; ascent , see p. 129), which
consists of light-gray syenite. On the rocky slopes are seen many
traces of the avalanches ('Skred') which fall into the valley in the
early summer. The road follows the right bank, gradually ascending.
On the left bank are the gaards of Hemre 3.nd. Hy Hand. Farther on
(I3/4-2 hrs. from Gudvangen) the road recrosses to the left bank and
roaches the foot of the * Stalheimsklev ('clifl''), which terminates the
f^ognefjord. AURLAND. Map, p. 113. — 91. R. 139
valley. The vehicles of visitors to the 'Kiev" usually await their
retiin\ at the bridge. The road ascends the 'Kiev' in sixteen some-
what steep zigzags, the ascent of which tal\es nearly an hour. On
the right and left are the Sivlefos and the Stalheimsfos, two pictur-
esque waterfalls. From the top of the pass (1125 ft.; new hotel,
opened in 1903) a superb view is obtained (see p. 129).
The *Upper Aurlandsfjord, which stretches to the S.E. from
the promontory of Beiteln (p. 137), is visited twice weekly by the
steamer from Bergen to Lsrdal. To the left, high up on the steep
E. bank, we observe the gaards of Horken, Nedberge, and (in a
ravine) Kuppadal. To the right, on the hill, are the Stege-Scetre,
with two waterfalls near. The steamer calls at Vnderdal, finely
situated, with a church, whence we may ascend by the Melhus-ScBter
to the Steganaase ('ugly' or 'terrible nose'; 5660 ft.), the highest
peak of the Syrdalsfjekl. — Farther on, to the right, rises the long
Flenje-Egg, with its highest peaks, the Jelben (to the N.) and the
Flenjanaase (4840 ft.). The fjord widens. On the left open several
deep ravines, first the Skjerdal, with the gaard of that name, then
the small Voldedal and the Vashygd, the chief place in which is —
4S.M. (fromFresvik or Gudvangen) Aurland or Aurlandsvangen
{Ellend Vangen's Hotel., R., B., or S. 1, D. 2kr., tolerable), with
its small stone church. — A good road leads up the valley of the
Aurlands-Elv (which abounds in fish) to the (6 Kil.) Vasbygdvand
(p. 139).
From Aurland to T^njum in the L^rdal (2 days). 1st Day: steep
ascent of about 4000 ft. between the Jilaaskavl (Skavl, 'snow-drift'; 2815 ft.;
ascended in 6 hrs. from Aurland; fine view) on the N. and the Ileiskarsnvt
on the S., and afterwards passing the lofty Ilodns/iipe on the right, to
the Hodn-Saeler (8 hrs.). — 2nd Day: to the Skaale-Sieler and up the
Barshegda (4635 ft.), commanding a fine view as far as the Horunger,
and of the .l0ranaase with the Troldelifjeld. A rough SEeter-path then
descends to the (7 hrs.) church of Tenjum in the Lcerdal , from which
Lwrdalseren (p. 141) is 10 Kil. distant by the highroad.
At the head of the fjord, 6 Kil. from Aurland, lies the large
gaard of Fretheim (Frethcims Hotel, R. ll/2> B- or S. P/^^iT., very
fair), the steamer-terminus, at the mouth of the Flaamsdal, with a
line girdle of mountains.
Feom Frbthbim to Vatnahalsen (19 Kil., pay for 27), new
carriage-road ascending the *Flaamsdal. This route is also re-
commended to pedestrians, and the times given are those which a
good walker should accomplish. — The road follows the right bank
of the stream, and is almost level as far as the (3 Kil.) church of
Flaam, whence it ascends in a wide curve to the second zone of the
valley, 300 ft. higlier than the first. High above the W. slope ot
the valley is the beautiful Riondefos. About I'^^r. from Fretheim
the road crosses the Hega-Bro to the left bank, where the necessary
blasting of the rock has exposed some huge giant's cauldrons;
the stream flows far below us. As the valley contracts, its rugged-
140 noute 21. AMBLE. Sognefjord.
ness increases. Below, on the left, is the gaard of Berekuam.
In 11/4 hr. more, just before reaching the gaard Melhus on the
left bank, we once more cross the stream, pass through a tunnel
130 yards long, and follow the right bank till we reach (3/4 hr.) an
iron bridge, below which is the pretty Kanrdalsfos. Here we re-
cross (for the last time) to the left bank and find ourselves at the
gaard of Kaardnl {?>^ j^-^^i'rs. from Fretheim). Looking up to the
left, we see the flag waving on the Vatnahalsen Hotel; a footpath to
Opsjet (p. 129) diverges to the right. Fully 1 Kil. beyond Kaardal
the road bends to the right and ascends the steep side of the valley
in 16 curves. At about ^^hr. from the Kaardalsfos the road forks,
the right branch leading to Myrdalen (20 Kil. from Fretheim, pay
for 28), whence there is a footpath to OpScet (comp. p. 130), while
our route goes straight on to the (10 min.) Vatnahalsen Hotel
(p. 130).
c. From Balholm or from Gudvangen to Lserdalseren.
Steamer from Balholm to Lardalseren via Sogndal or via Gudvaii(/en,
6 time:? a week in 7-12 brs. (fare 4 kr.). — From Gudiangen to Lxrdah-
eren^ also G times a week in 3>/2 lirs. (fare 4 kr ).
From Balholm and from Gudvangen to the mouth of the Aur-
landsfjord, see p. 135. — The steamer rounds the Sagances, the base
of the Holten, and sometimes calls at the substantial gaard of —
Ytre Freningen. On a green plateau, about 400 ft. higher,
stands the school attended by the children of this scattered district.
From Ytre Fr0ningen the "Blejan (5560 ft.) may be ascended in 6-7 hrs.
(ratlier steep): admirable view of the Sognefjord, the Jostedalsbrse, theHor-
unger, the Jotunheim Mts., the Hallingdal, and Voss. The fjord itself is best
seen from the brink of the Lemegg, which descends 5000 ft. almost perpendic-
ularly to the N. — An easier ascent is from iheVindedal (p. 141; poor quar-
ters), reached from LEerdalsijrren by small boat. The best plan is to sleep at
the Vindedals-S<eter, I'/j hr. above the Vindedal and 2-3 hrs. from the top.
To the N. towers the Storhougfjeld (p. 136). We next pass
Indre Freningen and the promontory of Refncestangen, a spur of the
Hausafjeld, behind which rises the Lemeggisee above). We either
steer direct to Lcerdalseren, or tirst to the N. to —
5S.M. (from Sogndal) Amble ( Husum' s Inn, goodj, charmingly
situated on the cTaLter-sha.-pei Ajuhlebiigt. A pleasant road leads hence,
passing the Amblegaard (the owner of which, Hr. Heiberg, has a
collection of relics relating to the large Norwegian family of that
name) and skirting the fjord, to (2 Kil.) Kaiipanger, beautifully
situated. The small 'Stavekirke', with 20 pillars in the nave and
4 in the reftangular choir, seems to liave been built about 1200 ;
it was unsuccessfully restored in 1862. Fine elms and ashes.
From Amble to Sogndal (13 Kil.). Beyond Kaupanger the road be-
gins to ascend; superb view looking bade on the Sognefjord, particularly
of the precipices of the snow-clad Blejan (see above). The road leads through
pine-forest to the top of the hill, and then descends past several large
farms (each with a 'Slabbur' and belfry) to fl Kil.) Midet (a poor station).
A road skirting the Jiidsfjord, with a line view of the avalanche-furrowed
INDRE SOGNE FJORD
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Sognefjord. LiERDAl.S0Rfi:N. 21. Route. 141
slope of the Stnrhougfjeld towards the S., leads hence to (GKU.) Lofles-
nws. a substantial larm-himse opposite Sogndal, to which we cmss by
boat. — To row direct from Eidet to Sogndal (G Kil.) takes 1 hi-, (boat with
two rowers 1 kr. 80.). Herrings are largely caught in the Eidsfjord. The
water in thisbay is almost fresh on the surface ('ferskvand) but Salter below.
To the S. rises the F.lejaii (p. 140); to the W., farther distant,
the FresviksbraB (p. 137). Un thelettopensthc Aardalsfjord(p. 142).
Opposite the headland o( Fodncvs, on the right, between the Lemegg
and the long Glipsfjild , descends the Vindedal, -with the Store
Graanasein the background. The fjord, now called Lcerdalsfjord, is
bounded on the left by the Vetatiaase and, farther to the E., the
Heganaase (4900 ft."). We pass the gaards of Haugene, on the
riglit, at the mouth of the Eierdal, and land at —
7 S.M. (from Balholm ; 3 from Amble) Laerdalsaren. — Pier
1 Kil. from the hotels (carr. 50 0. each pers. ; with luggage 60 0.). Thoae
who make an early start liom La'rda1s0rcn may go on board the steamer
the night before, but sleep is almost out of the question owing to the
noise of loading and unloading.
Hotels. *Lindsti!0m's Hotel, three houses with garden, R. 2, B. or
S. IV2, !*• 2Vi kr. ; Kv.\mme",s Hotel, less pretending; English spoken at
both. Physician, Dr. Moinidien.
Teleguapu Office, in the chemist's shop to the right, beynud Lind-
str0ra"s Hotel. — Post Office, still farther from the fjord, in the red
house to the left, near the church. — English Church Sekvice in summer.
Caleschvogn to Odnrcs (p. 53), for 2, 3, or 4 pers , 85, 100, 115 kr.
Lardalseren, generally shortened to Lardul, the terminus of
the Valders route (R. 8), lies on a broad and marshy plaiu at the
mouth of the Lara, enclosed by bare rocky mountains. View limited.
Towards the E. we observe at the end of the Oftedal, on the left,
the Haugnaase (5250 ft.), and on the right the Freibotlcnfjeld. The
village, with its 800 inhab., has a doctor, a chemist, and a few
tolerable shops. The church, a timber edifice of 1873 with two
towers, lies in a sefond group of houses about 1/4 M. farther inland.
A 'bautasten' 20 ft. high, erected in 1902, commemorates the brave
deeds of the Lserdal soldiers in the wars of 1808-9 and 1813-14.
Walks. By a good n ad pa.st the pier and along the bank to the
winter-pier (u?ed when the fjnrd is frozen), and thence to the mouth of
the Kierdal (see above: there and hack IV2 hr.}. — Up the Lrordal road,
past ttie church, for about P/i M. : then to the left over the bridge and
(farther on) to the right to the hamlet of nmige; finally to the Jeft to
C/z M.) two yellow houses on the lower slope of the hil), containing a fish-
breeding cs'aMi.'ihment (FiSke-UdHcchnngs-Apjmvat), founded in 1899 (fee
15-20 0.). Hard by is the low 'Klokstoper of the old church of La:rda).
d. The Aardalsfjord and Lysterfjord.
Steamek from Lardals0ren to Aavdal twice weekly, in 11/2-2 hir. (faro
1 kr. GO0.); to SIcJolden at the head of the Ly.'iterfjord thrice wceklv, in
5-7'/2hrs. (fare 3 kr. 200.); to Marifjwren only, in '3-41/2 hrs. (fare 2'kr.}.
From Lscrdalseren to Fodnas, see above. After rounding the
promontory wc obtain, to the left, a view of the Lysterfjord
(p. 142), with the Haugma;len ; in the background is the Jostedals-
brffi (p. 130). To the S.W. towers the Blejan (p. 140).
142 R.2L — M<tp,p.l4l). AARDAL. Soynefjord.
The entiaiice of the Aardalsfjord is somewhat monotonous.
On the N. hank rke the Bodlenakken and then the Brandhovd,
hetween which lie the Ytre and Indre Oferdal (see helow). On
the -wooded S. hank is the station of Nadviken or Vikedal. We
next obtain a view of the Sceheimsdal to the N., and a little later
we see the superb girdle of mountains around —
Aardal or Aardalstangen ( Kl'mgenherg s Hold). The little vil-
lage, with its pretty church, lies partly on an old coast-line(p.xxxiv)
and partly on deposits from the mountains on the right, at the
mouth of the Aardals-Elv, which issues from the neighbouring
Aardalsvand. Opposite, to the S., rises the snow-clad Slettefjeld
or Middagshaugen (4435 ft.). Aardal is the starting-point for a
visit to the Vettisfos (1 day; p. 150).
Returning from Aardal , the steamer calls when required at
Oferdal , the station for the valleys of Indre (E.) and Ytre (W.)
Oferdal, which lie between the Brandhovd and the Bodlenakken.
We then round the wild precipice of the Bodlenakken and enter
the *Lysterfjord , the N.E. arm of the Sognefjord , 40 Kil. in
length , where the wildest scenery is combined with the most
smiling. Owing to the numerous glacier-streams falling into it, the
water of the fjord near the surface is fresh and of a milky colour.
On the W. side rises the precipitous Haugmcelen (4135 ft.), which
may be ascended nearly the whole way on horseback. In 21/4 hrs.
from Aardal the steamer reaches —
4 S.M. Solvorn (Hotel Soluorn, very fair), a skyds-station, finely
situated on a bay in the W. bank of the fjord, backed by the snow-
mountains around the Veitestrandsvand (see below).
A hilly road ascends from Solvorn to the (2 Kil.) Hafilovand (455 ft.),
the bank "of which is skirted by the road from Jlarifjteren to Sogndal
mentioned at pp. 143, 136. About 2 Kil. to the N. of the junction of the
two roads lies Hillestad {HiUestad^s Hotel, well spoken of, R. 80 0., B. 1,
S. 1 kr. ; 4 Kil. from Solvorn, pay for 6), where guides and horses are
obtained for the ascent of the Molden (p. 143; on foot 3-4 hrs.).
From Hillestad the road leads by Hafslo, with a church and parson-
age, to (8 Kil.) Soget., at the S. end of the Veitestrandsvand (640 ft.), a lake
14 Kil. long. We may then row (pay for 16 Kil.) to the N. end of the
lake, where rustic quarters (and sometimes a guide) may be had at the
gaard of Naes or Nordre Noss, and walk thence in iO hrs. by the Veite-
strandsskar to the Suphelledal and to Fjferland (see p. 134). — Nses is
also the starting-point for a visit to the Austerdalsbrae, lying to the N.,
farther up the valley, a glacier described by Messrs. K. Bing (p. 117) and
W. C. Slingsby as unusually attractive. A footpath leads to the foot of the
glacier in 3V2 hrs. ; then from the lower to the upper glacier, 1 hr. more.
Several of Herr Bing's original routes across the entire Jostedalsbree are
marked on the Map at p. 130 (to Aamot, see p. 181).
On the promontory opposite Solvorn, in a charming situation,
lies llrnces (where the steamer calls when required), with its large
tumuli ('Kaempehouge') and the oldest 'Stavekirke' in Norway,
dating possibly from the Uth cent, (see p. 29). The construction
and ornamentation of the church are specially interesting. The
'Lop' or arcade was removed in 1722. To the left towers the huge
Sognefjord. MARIFJ^REN. Map, p. 140. — 21. R. 143
Molclen (3645 ft.). On the E. bank , about 1/2 lir. after leaving
Solvorn, we pass the gaard of Ytre Kroken, famed for its orchards
(small-boat station; touched at when required). To the N.W. ap-
pears the Hestebrw , part of the Jostedalsbrae ; to the right of it is
the Leirmohovd ; more to the N. are the hills of the Krondal (p. 145).
In 1,2 lir. more vre reach —
2 S.M. Marifjaeren {^Tervi's Hotel iS' Skyds Station, fair, at the
pier), prettily situated on the Gaupnefjord, the best starting-point
for a visit to the Jostedal (p. 144). Beautiful walk to the N.W.
up to the old church of Joranger, which commands a magnificent
view of the tjord and the Feigumsfos (see below). Instead of follow-
ing the steep footpath (which is especially unpleasant to descend)
leading straight up from the Bygde-Elv bridge, it is better to take
the Hillestad road (see below) as far as the (20 min.) bridge,
and then to ascend to the right (20 min.). — To the S. of Mari-
fjaeren (10 min.) is the gaaid oi Hundskammer, whence part of the
Jostedalsbrae is visible.
From Makifj.kren to Sogndal (22 Kil., pay for 33; a drive of 4-5 hrs. ;
fast stations all the way). The route is full of beauty but, until the
completion of the new road (in 1905 ?). should be traversed only in a light
cariole or on foot. The first stage follows the course of the Bygde-Elv.
On the right, above us, lies Joranger. We next skirt the steep face of
the Molden (see above), and pass many farms with well-cultivated fields,
chiefly on the sunny side {'Solside') of the valley. A little to the right
lies Fet, with its old church. At the highest point of the road (about
9(X) ft.) we obtain a view of the distant snow-mountains to the S. of the
Sognefjord (Fresviksbrffi, Rambffiren, etc.). The descent is rather steep.
Grand view of the Hafslobygd, the Hafslovand, and the mountains of the
Sognefjord.
8 Kil. (pay fur 14) Hillestad, see above.
The road skirts the E. bank of the Hafslovand , where the road to
Solvorn diverges to the left (see above), and traverses a pine-wood, afford-
ing glimpses of the lake and the Jostcdalsbrte to the K. Beyond the
gaard Oklevig the road attains its highest point, and then descends the
winding "Gildreskreden (Skreien), where caution is necessary in driving.
Superb view of the fjord. On our right rushes the Ovre-Elv, descending
fnini the Veitestrand and Hafslo lakes, and forming the Ihlvetesfos and
Futetprang. Below, at the N. extremity of the Sogndalsfjord, lies Nage-
leren. The road now skirts the Bavsnaesfjord. Oaks, elms, and ashes
begin to api)ear. The fjord contracts to a narrow channel. On the op-
posite bank lies Loftesna's (p. 141).
14 Kil. (pay for 19) Sogndal, see p. 13G.
The upper part of the Lysterfjord is grand and picturesque.
The steamer passes A'tts, on the left, and on the right tlie imposing
Feitjumsfos , which descends from a valley to the N. of the Rlvc-
naase (3450 ft.), in two fails, about 050 ft. in height. To the N.
of the fall rises the Serhehnsfjeld ; then, the Skurvenaase (4520 ft.).
On the W. bank is the small station of Hoihehn or Hojums-
vik. Then —
2 S.M. D«rsen, or Lyster, as it is called by the boatmen {Inn,
well spoken of), charmingly situated. Adjacent is the old stone
church of Bale, with a tine portal.
From l>0sen wc may ascond the Dalcdal by a bridle-track, passing the
gaards of Bringe and Skaav and the steters of Vallagjerdet and Kvale, to
144 R.21.— Mnp.p.l4lK SKJOLDEN. Sogncfjorcl.
the gaard Kilert., the highest in the valley. Thence a steep climb ovei
the Stor/iotigs Vidde (2600 ft.) to the VigdaU-Sieter ; then to the W. through
the Vigdal, passing the Buskrednaase on the right, to the fjeld-gaards of
0vi'e and Nedve Vigdal. From the latter the path crosses a bill, descends
abruptly to the Ormbergs-Slel, and leads to the N. to Guard Ormberg in
the Jostedal (p. Ii4), about 27 Kil. from D^sen (a fatiguing walk of
9-10 hrs. ; guide necessary). — From D0sen a new road runs by the side
of the fjord to Skjolden (12 Kil.).
1 S.M. Skjolden (Thorgeir Sulheim's Inn, aLove tlie pier, very
fair; carriages meet tlie steamer), tlie terminus of the steamboat-
service, is finely situated at the moutlis of the Fortundal (p. 154)
and Merkereidsdal. It is the starting-point for an excursion to the
Horunger (pp. 166 et seq.). Fishing in the Fortun-Elv permitted
to the guests of the hotel.
The sombre M^rkereidsdal extends about 20 Kil. to the N., with a road
leading pa^t the farms of S/cole, Bolslad, Flo/iaug, and Moen. to Merkereid or
Merkei (6 Kil. from Skjdldcn). Here the valley forks. A steep path ascends
the left branch to the Aasatrand and skirts the W. slope of the Skur-
venaase (4505 it.) to Ihe Aa-Saier (reached also by rowing across the lake),
whence we proceed into the Rausdal (see below). The route to the right
at M^rkereid ascends the Markereidsdal, passing the Knivebakke-ScBter (left),
the Bul-Swier, and the Dalen-Sccter, to the Fosse-Sa-ter, at the junction of
the glacier-routes fri.m the Kfirstedals-Sreter (p. I5i) and the Sota-Sa'ter
(p. 67). We cross the river here, ascend to join the route from the
Aa-Sfeter, and proceed to the —
Fjeldsli-Saeter, a mounlain-inn kept by Ole Bolstad, with the support
of the Norwegian Turist- Forening. This is a good starting-point for
several mountain -passes and for snowshoeing e.xpeditions on the neigh-
bouring glaciers. — Passes (guides necessary). 1. Past the Rausdals-Swters
and up the E. bank of the streamlet in the Rausdal to the permanently
frozen Rausdalsvand, then to the E. of the Rivenaaskulen (6190 ft.) and over
the KoUbrce down to the Tvccraadal and on to the (10-11 hrs.) fiota-Sajter
(p. 67). Or we may quit the Eausdal by crossing tie iirf(r6n)'«6)"a', between
the ToceraadaU-Kivke (6830 ft.) and the Tundredals Kirke (G500 ft.), and de-
scend past the Sotkjarn to the (12 hrs.) Sola-Smter. — 2. Past the Kausdals-
Ssetre and to the W. over the fjeld and through the Marledal and Fager-
dal to the gaavd Faaberg (p. 146) in the Jostedal (a long day's walk).
Feom Maeifj^een to the Jostedal.
The Jostedal, like almost all the Norwegian valleys, is a rocky rift
or ravine in the midst of a vast plateau of snow and ice, the W. part ( f
which consists of the Jostedalsbrm (p. 130). with its ramifications, while
the E. half is formed by the Spe/rtcgbrw and numerous snow-clad peaks or
'noses'. The sides of the valley, rising to 3000 ft., are generally wooded,
and are often broken up by transverse rifts, from which torrents and water-
falls descend ; and at intervals they recede, forming basins which are usually
bounded by rocky barriers, marking the difl'erent zones of the valley. —
This excursion takes 1V2-2 days there and back, and, in spite of the interest
and beauty of the JVigardslrce (p. 146), is scarcely worth the trouble.
The passage of the Jostedalsbrse should be attempted only by experienced
mountaineers with good guides. — Fast Ski/ds Stations ; it is usual to engage
a cariole for the whole journey.
Marifjaren, see p. 143. The road leads past the precipitous
slopes on the W. bank of the Gaupnefjord to (3 Kil.) Reneid , at
the mouth of the Jostedals-Elv , opposite the church of Gaupne.
Above Gaupne rises the Raubergsholten (2676 ft.).
The road as 'ends on the right bank o the turbulent and muddy
Sognefjord. Sl'ERLK. M,ip, p. Ida. — :>/. R. 145
river. The lower part, of the valley is well rultivated. The road
passes an old moraine and crosses the Kvarne-Elv. The high and
shapeless rocks wliich flank the road all the way to Leirmo begin
here. In front of us rises the Leirmohovd. After crossing the Fon-
delii the road turns to the right to the gorge of Hausadn. To the
W. we see the twin peaks of the Asbjernnaase (5270 ft.). From the
rocks on the right falls the Rijefos. We soon reach the first of the
basins peculiar to the Jostedal, named after the farms of Leirmo,
on the hill to the left. (From Leirmo we may visit the Tunsberg-
dalsbrcE, 8I/2 M- in length, the longest glacier in Norway.) We cross
the foaming Tunshergdals-Elv. To the right towers the Kolnaase.
The river expands until it covers the whole floor of the valley.
14 Kil. Alsmo lies on an old moraine ('Mo'). The road soon
enters a gorge called the Haugaasgjel, in which are the falls of
the Vigdela, and continues through the deep and imposing basin
of Myklemyr, once occupied by a lake. To the left rises the Hompe-
ddlskulen (4820 ft.), and in front of us is the Vangsen (see below).
Passing the gaards of Myten, Teigcn, 0en, and Myklemyr, the road
leads through a narrower part of the valley, with the large gaard
of Ormberg on the right, and enters the basin of Fossen and Dalen.
I'eyond another defile, with a bridge leading to Desen (p. 143), we
reach the basin of —
16 Kil. Sperle (properly Sperleeer ; simple but good quarters).
— We now cross a rocky eminence, where, to the N., we have a pretty
view of the Liaxlen and the Jostedalsbrae. Beyond the school is the
gaard of Sperle, with the waterfall of that name, descending from
the Listelshrce on the left. Beyond Sperle a steep ascent leads to
the Nedre Lid, which is woodeA at the top, and past the 'GjeV, or
ravine, of that name which opens on the right. We then descend
into a beautiful basin containing the church of Jostedal (660 ft.),
which serves all the 900 inhabitants of the valley.
On the left we observe the Bakkefos, which descends from the
Stronddfjeld, and near it the 0vre Oaard. We then reach another
broad basin. On the riglit the Ojeitsdela forms three fine water-
falls. To the S.E. rises the imposing Vangsen (5710 ft.), with a
glacier on its N.E. slope, which may be visited from Jostedal
(4 hrs.). Between the valleys of Vanddal and Gjeitsdal, which
here open to the right, is seen the pyramidal Myrhorn, rising from
the great Spertegbnt behind. Beyond the gaard of Gjerdet we cross
the stream issuing from the Krondal, which is flanked on the right
by the Haugenanse (4260 ft.) and on the left by Vetlenibben and
the Grenneskredbra. Corn thrives thus far.
Fkosi the Kuokdal ovkr the Jo8tedalsur« to Loen , or to Olden
on the Nordtjord (p. 185), 12-15 hrs., a grand but trying route. (Guide,
Johannet Snetun, in the Krcndal, 14-20 kr. ; porter 10 kr.). We sleep at
the gaard Kronen (2 or 3 beds), and start early next niorning. From Bergset,
the last !;aard. we ascend tlie E. side of the Tvarbrm or lijarnesteghrce,^
which descends from the N., to the (3 hrs.) JUmgeneset, between the Tvror-
bnc and the Nigardsbrte (see p. 146), marked by the last 'varde' in the
Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 10
146 R. Jl. — Map, p. UO. FAAUERG.
.Tostcdal (good water). The passage of the glacier now begins. In 1 hr.
the Kjendalskrona, the Lodalskaupa, and other mountains of the Nordfjord
come in sight. In 2-3 hrs. more we reach the first -varde' on the op-
posite side. We descend across the Kvandalthrae (20 min.) and by a very
fatiguing route skirting its margin to the (I1/2 hr.) Kvandal (p. 188). dr
we may follnw the Jostedalsbrse farther to the W. and descend by the
Szmchbra: to the Oldenvand, which we reach at Sunde (p. 186).
Farther on we cross a hill and obtain a fine view looking back.
Before us soon comes in view the *Nigardsbr8e, between the Hauge-
nause and Liaxlen. The road leads past the Berge-Sceter and crosses
the Jostedals-Elv. A path diverging to the left before the Berge-
Sseter by-and-by crosses the stream issuing from the Nigardsbrje
and skirts the N. slope of the glacier-valley. The best view of this
famous glacier, so often described by Norwegian and other writers,
is obtained from the point, about 1/9 ^^- from the Berge-Saster,
where the crest of the lateral moraine projects a little into the valley.
The descent to the foot of the glacier is not worth the trouble.
After crossing the Jostedals-Elv the road passes the gaard
Kroken, and ends at —
19 Kil. Faaberg (1310 ft.). Tolerable quarters but poor fare may
be obtained at the house of Rasmus Larsen Faaberg, a good guide,
who, however, does not accept the conditions of the Norwegian
Tourist Society. That society recommends Lars Larsen Lien, living
at the Lien-Sceter, on tl)e opposite bank, which may be reached by the
foot-bridge across the river between Kroken and Faaberg, without
proceeding to Faaberg.
From Faaberg through the Fagerdal to the Merkereidsdal, see p. 144.
From Faaberg over the Jostedalsbr.^ to Hjelle on the Stbtns-
VAND, 13-14 hrs. (guide 12-14 kr.). It is usual to ascend in the evening, by a
poor path, to (2 hrs.) the sseter of Faabergstal (1875 ft.), where quarters are
obtained. To the W., just above the seeter, extends the Faahei-gsteiUhrw.
Next morning we ascend the desolate Stordal, where the path to Mork
over the Handspikje, mentioned at p. 67, diverges to the right. Farther
on we keep to the left and in 2'/2 hrs. reach the LodaUbrx (about 29T0 ft.),
which we ascend to the right, skirting the Rauskarfjeld, to the Jostedals-
brce. The highest point of the latter is reached to the right of the Lodals-
kaupa (6790 ft.) and to the left of the Stornaase. The descent to Gredung
takes 5-6 hrs. We first cross the Gredunysbrce or Erdalsbrce, which comes
down from the Stornaase and the Kluhben (5150 ft.) on the W., and then
descend by a difficult and unpleasant rocky path along the Skaarene to the
lower end of the glacier (2300 ft.). The valley now becomes less steep,
and we reach the Gredungs-Swter, the gaard of Gredung^ and finally the
gaard of Erdal on the Strynsvand, whence we ferry to Hjelle (p. 190).
A pass, said to be easy, leads from Faaberg via the stone but on the
Liaxlen, rising to the N.E. of the Nigardsbrse, or via the Nigardsbrae, then
across the Jostedalsbrse, and down to the Bedal on the Loenvand (p. 187).
22. Jotunheim.
Section 30 D (Galdh0piggen) and Section 30 B (Bygdin) of the Topo-
graphical 3Iap mentioned in the Introduction (p. xxix; scale 1 : 100,000)
have been published, but for the entire W. part of the district the trav-
eller has to depend on antiquated and almost useless maps. — For the
-Horvnger our map (p. 155) on the scale of 1:200,000, though also based on
insufficient material, but corrected and completed, is at present probably the
J u I u II n c
Aj_ JterstelU^U'';^
I Lifibi-ofciilfn
iTtoivlirqp^
\]^U^i{|(dib
- V :.°ir'0' \ ' ' ' ^i » '^jMarislao'.
JOTU W H E I M
."^
^ .
i .'
'■"'' na^r^'
JOTUNUEIM. 'J-J. Route. 1-^7
best; (he heights arc (aken from the 'Korske Turistf^renings Arbot; fur 1894'.
The map published by C; mmermeyer of Christiania under the title 'Lomme-
Eeisekart over Nt rge No. V., Lom, VeslreSlidre, Eorgund, Lyster' may
also be reccmmended (1:175,000; price 1 kr.)-
Although the greater part of Norway consists of a vast table-
land, rising occasionally into rounded summits, and descending
abruptly at the margins, it possesses three districts with the Alpine
characteristic of well-defined mountain-ranges. One of these dis-
tricts is on the Lyngen fjord in Troms0 Amt (p. 255), the second
is Sendmere (p. 197), and the third is the region bounded by the
Sognefjord on the W. and the plateaux of Valders and the Gud-
brandsdal on the S. and the N.E. This last was explored for the
first time by Keilhau in 18'20 and named by him Jotunfjeldene, or
the 'Giant Mountains', but is now generally known as Jotunheim,
a name given to it by later 'Jotunologists', chiefly Norwegian stud-
ents, as a reminiscence of the 'frost giants' in the Edda.
The peaks of Jotunheim (called Tinder, Pigge, Home, and
Ncebher , while the rounded summits are Heer') generally range
from 5900 ft. to G600 ft. in height, while the Galdhepig (p. 158)
and the Glittertind (p. 173) exceed 8200 ft. The Swiss Alps are
much higher (Mont Blanc, 15,784 ft.), but are surpassed by the
Jotunheim mountains in abruptness. The plateaux between the
peaks are almost entirely covered with snow, the snow-line here
being about 5580 ft. (in Switzerland 8850 ft.). Huge glaciers
(Braer, the smaller being called HuUer, 'holes') descend from these
masses of snow. The amphitheatre-like mountain-basins which
occur here frequently, enclosed by precipitous sides rising to 1600 ft.
or more, are known as Botner. The valleys lie, with a few excep-
tions, above the forest-zone, and are therefore much less picturesque
than those of the Alps. One of their peculiarities is that they rarely
terminate in a pass, but culminate in a nearly level ^Band\ with a
series of lakes; the passage from one side to the other is some-
times so slightly marked, that the waters of the uppermost lake
flows ofl' in both directions. Three large lakes, the Bygdin, the
Tyin, and the Gjende, all at a height of about 3300 ft. and sur-
rounded by barren, sparsely grown rocky hills, complete the chief
features of this bleak northern landscape.
A marked difference in travelling in the Jotunheim ns cumpared
with the Alps is the absence of proper paths in the former. Even
frequented routes often lead through the debris and detritus of the
'Ure' (p.xxxi), across marshes, or over strong glacier-torrents, either
bridgele?s or inadequately bridged. On the other hand the approach
to the mountain-tops is generally easier than in the Alps. Another
drawback for the less robust visitor is the scanty supply of inns
and rrftige-huts, so that it is seldom possible to abbreviate a day's
excursion in the event of fatigue or rain. It is in any event un-
desirable to visit the Jotunheim unless there is a fair prospect of
settled weather. The aciomniodation at the ii-ns is similar to that
10*
1-iS Ii.22. — Map.p.NfJ. J0TUNHP:1M. Inns.
in tlie remoter parts of the Eastern Alps. The sleeping-quarters of
the so-called 'hotels' (mountain-inns of the simplest character)
and refuge-huts (p. xxvi) arc generally clean and the beds toler-
able; but the better rooms at the more frequented points are often
occupied by guests staying for several days, so that passing trav-
ellers liave to sliare their room with 6 or 8 other persons or even to
be content with benches in the dining-room. It is, therefore, ad-
visable not to arrive at the sleeping-place too late in the evening.
Members of the Turist-Forening, recognisable by their club-button,
have a preferential right to beds at the tourist-hnts (except those
built with subvention of government) until 10 p.m. The com-
missariat department is considerably inferior to that of the Alpine
club-huts. The prices are low. The usual charge for a bed is
11/4 kr. (members of the Turist-Forening 50 0.), and the day's
expenditure (not including guides) need not exceed 3l/2-'4V2 It.
Most of the travellers are Norwegians, and parties often consist of
two or three ladies travelling alone.
Unpretending sleeping accommodation may also be had at most of
the ScElers (also called Stel or Sel), which contain at least one living-
room and line sleeping-room, while at the more frequented points extra
rooms for visitors are sometimes provi^led in the nut-buildings. The cows
(Keer) are usually sent up to the mountains (HI f>wters) on St. John's
Day (June 24th) and remain there till Sept. lOtb. Women and girls are
often their so}e attendants.
The Guides are active and obliging, but generally speak Norwegian
only and are scarcely on a par with those of Switzerland or the Eastern
Alps. Their number, moreover, is so small, that a traveller must often
wait until a group of tourists is collected. The usual fee is 4 kr. per
day, but the charges for the difTerent expeditions are given in each case.
The guide is not bound to carry more than 2 'bismer'-pounds (24 lbs.) of
luggage, and even this he carries unwillingly. For the longer tours, there-
fore, the traveller must engage a porter, who receives about two-thirds of
a guide's fee. No charge is made for the return-.journey. — Alpenstocks,
though very useful for steeper ascents, are not in favour in Norway, and
good ones cannot be procured there (comp. p. xxiv). On the other hand,
Ice-axes CJsexer") and stout Ropes ( ReV) are now supposed to be provided
at the chief stations fif the Turist-Furening, though as a matter of fact this
is not always the case. Indeed, the whole 'technique' of mnuntaineering
is much more perfectly understood and practised in the Alps than in Nor-
way, where, however, it is less required. — Those who travel without a
guide should, as a rule, on leaving one of the sfeters, whence numer(>us
paths always diverge, ask to be shown the way for the first half-hour.
With the exception of the greater ascents, most of the excursions may
1)0 made on horseback. In the hire paid for a horse the services of an
attendant are never included, but must be paid for separately; if he is a
full-grown man ('voxen Mand') he receives the same fee as a guide.
The installation of Steam. Latmches on the lakes would considerably
facilitate travelling in the Jotunheim, but there seems at present little
prospect of this owing to the tear th:it such conveniences would impair
the characteristic and solitary charms of the district.
The following tour (9-10 days) includes the Finest Points in
Jotunheim. — From Aardal on the Sogncfjord to Vetti (p. 160), half-
a-day; via Skogadalsbeen and over the Reiser to Turtegre (p. 155),
one day; excursions from Turtegre, one day; via the Bcevertun-
ScBter to Reijshjem (p. 157), two days; over the Galdhepic/ (p. 158)
Aardalsmmd. JOTUNHEIM. Map, p. 146. —^2. B. 149
to Spiterstulen (p. 172; reached a day earlier by the omission of
Riejshjem) and to Lake GJende (p. 166), two days; excursions from
Lake Gjende and thence via Gjendeboden to Eidsbugaren or Tyins-
holmen (pp. 161-163), two days; via the Sklnegg and Tvindehougen
to Skogstad or Nystuen (p. i)?), one day. — Turtegre may he reached
fvom. Skjolden on the Sognefjord(p. 144)in3hrs., via Fortuni'p. 150).
Distances in the fullovviiii; descriptions are calculated for goodwalkera.
It should he borne in mind that walking in .lotunheini is, owing to the
want (if paths', much more fatiguing than amoni; the Swiss Alps. Ample
time should therefore always be allowed. — A standard rule of Norwegian
travel is that horses, guides, boats, food, etc., should always be ordered
in good time, on the day before if possible. An early start is almost im-
possible if, owing to the want of guides (see p. 148), one has to wait for
Norwegian fellow-travellers.
a. From Aardal on the Sognefjord to Vetti. Vettisfos.
To Vein about 5 hrs., viz. i^/i-V/2 hr. by rowing-boat; V/t hr. by
cariole, on horseback, or on foot; the rest on foot, the path being almost
too bad for riding. As the Sognefjord steamers to Aardal are not timed
very conveniently, and the quarters at Aardal are unpretending, this route
is a little uncomfortable. It is recommended only to those who are going
on to Jotunheim or who intend making the circuit of the Horunger, but
hardly repays visitors to the Vettisfos only.
Aardal, see p. 142. We walk up the Aardals-Elv, on the right
hank of which we observe the gaard Hereld, to the (1/4 hr.) Aar-
dalsvand, a lake 14 Kil. long, surrounded by abrupt clifi's and deep
ravines. A boat and rowers are always ready in the travelling season
to carry passengers to the upper end of the lake (IV2 ^r- ! 1 pers.
80 0., 2 pers. 1 kr. 32, 3 pers. 1 kr. 62 0). To the right we see
the Stegafjeld , with the precipice of Opstegene on its E. side ;
beyond lies the Fosdal with the Etdegaard, to which a zigzag path
ascends past a waterfall. Farther on, high up to the right, is the
Lest-Sceter; then the Midnaslunncr, with the Eldeholt. To the left
rises the Bottnjuvkamp, with its huge precipice ; to the right are
the 'Plads' or clearing of Gjeithus and the liaudncES, Then, to the
left, the Nondal, with several farms and the Nondalsfos. On round-
ing the Raudna's we see —
Farnces, at the N.E. end of the lake, where we land. Bargaining
advisable in hiring horse or vehicle. Guide to Vetti unnecessary.
Fkom Fakn/Es to Foutun (3-10 hrs.; with guide, 4 kr.). A bridle-
path ascends to the N.W. tln-nug'h ihc Fardal or Langedal, passing the. Aare
and Slokke sipters, to the Afiiiyi'ht-Sceter, whence a path leads through the
LovardaUskard (4700 ft.), a narrow gap or pass at the base of tlie Austa-
bottinder and the Soleitindcr (p. 15()), into the Berdal, where a refuge-hut
has been built. Thence to the gaard of Fuglesteg (2495 ft.) and by an
excessively steep descent (whence probably the name of 'Fuglesteg', or
'bird-path') to Fortun (p. l.')4).
The road from Farnss to Gjelle (7 Kil.) ascends the right (W.)
bank of the Utla. In 1/4 hr. we see on the right the mouth of the
Aardela ; then the gaard of Moen (poor quarters). About 5 Kil.
from Faruics the road crosses the Utla, and it ends beyond the bridge
of Gjelle, 2 Kil. farther on. To the right is the fine Gjellefos.
150 R.09,^Mnp,p.l46. VETTISFOS. Jotunheim.
From Gjelle a bad bridle-path (best On foot for the suitably
shod) ascends the Vettisgjel , a ravine 4-5 Kil. long. The path
first descends to the left, crosses the river, and reaches the gaard
Skaaren, just beyond which it crosses another bridge ('Johannebro,
1880'). Farther on we thread our way through a chaos of stones
above the wild Utla. After 30-40 min. we reach the *Afdalsfos,
530 ft. high. Scenery very imposing. The ravine ends, ^/i-i hr.
farther on, at the Heljabakfos, a fall of the Utla. Steep ascent to
the Heljahakken, from which we have a view of the 'Plads' below,
Gaard Vetti above, and of three small waterfalls to the left. Then
a steep climb of V2"^/4 1^. more to —
Gaard Vetti (1090 ft.; quarters at Anfind Vetti' s; horses to be
had for returning to Farnses ; Anflnd's son, Thomas A. Vetti, is a
good guide).
A disagreeable path (guide unnecessary) leads hence, at first
up and then down hill, to (1/2 hr.) the *Vettisfos, or Vettismor-
kafos, 850 ft. in height, a fall of the Morkedela, which joins the
Utla a little lower down. A height near the fall commands an ad-
mirable view of it, but a closer approach may be made by crossing a
small bridge to the other bank (waterproof desirable). — Those
who have 3-4 hrs. more to spare may ascend for I1/4 hr. the path
leading to the Vettismorka-Saeter, in order to enjoy the fine view
from the platform above the fall.
''Circuit of the Horcnger (with gnide; a horse must be obtained at
Favna'S or Gjelle, and provisions brought from Aardal). ist Day; From
Gaard Vetti, by the Vettismorka-Swier and the FleskedaU-Swtre (p. 151),
to Skogadalsbeen (p. 152) in 7-8 hrs., or in Y^ l^r. more to the highest
Guvidals-Sceter (p. 151). 2nd Day : Across the Keiseren Pass (p. 175) to the
Tuvtegre - Soetre (p. 155), and ascent of the DyrhaugsHnd (p. 156). 3rd
D;iy: Via Fortun to Skjolden (p. 144), 4V2-5 hrs.
b. From Vetti to Tyinsholmen.
8-10 hrs. A grand expedition (guide 5V2 kr.).
Gaard Vetti and the Vettisfos, see above. From Vetti we zigzag
up the Vettisgakler towards the N.E., and in 1/2 ^^- reach a plateau
commanding a view of the Utladal to the N., with the Maradalsfos
on the left. In another 1/2 hr. we reach the top of the hill, where
there are a few sickly pines and others overthrown by the wind. To
the right rises the Stelsnaastind. A path descends to the left
through scrub and across the Morkedeki to the above-mentioned
platform overlooking the Vettisfos. We then return to the left bank
of the Morkedela, ascend its course, and (20 min.) cross it to the —
Vettismorka-Sater (2190 ft.), II/2 tr. from Vetti. To the W.,
at the head of the Stels-Maradal, rises the Riingstind with the
Riingsbra; ; below is the Maradalsfos ; to the right, the Maradals-
naasi. The view of the Horiinger increases in grandeur.
From the upper valley of the Morked0la, on the S. side, rises the
Gjeldedalstind (7100 ft. ; first ascended by Hr. Carl Hall in 18S4), and on
the N. side the St0lsnaastind (6790 ft. ; first ascended by Mr. Slingsby in
Jotunheim. UTLADAL. Map, p. 146.— 22. R. 151
1S75), both of which may be ascended with guide without serious dif-
ficulty. Grand views.
Our route uow leads through firs and birches and (1/2 tr.) crosses
the Fleskedals-Eiv. It tlien ascends through wood to an open space
where we enjoy a *View of the Skagastelstinder (p. 156) to the left.
We then descend slightly and cross the river again to the (^^/2^t.;
21/2 hrs. from Vetti) four Fleskedals - Saetre, the middle one of
which, owned by Anfind Vetti, affords clean quarters (if open :
enquire at Vetti). Grand view of the Riingsbra and other Horunger.
The route to Tyinsholmen returns to the left bank of the
Fleskedals-Elv and follows the course of this stream. To the N. we
tirst observe Friken (see below), and afterwards the precipices of
the 'Nses' between the Fleskedal and the Uradal. In 3/4-I hr. we
recross the stream by a bridge. To the right rise the Stalsnaastinder,
with a large glacier. Farther on we ascend to (1^2 l^r.) the defile
of Smaaget, where we have another striking *View of the Horunger
behind us. To the right rises the Koldedalstind, to the left the
Fleskedalstind. We then descend rapidly towards the Upper Kolde-
dalsvand or Uradalsmulen and follow the whitewashed 'varder' to
the S., along the Koldedela, to the Lower Koldedalsuand. We
cross the Uradals-Elv 2 hrs. from Smaaget, and, after skirting the E.
bank of the lake, walk along the stream to the upper end of Lake
Tyin, whose N. bank we now follow to Tyinsholmen (p. 161), 2 hrs.
from the bridge over the Uradals-Elv.
c. From Vetti through the TJtladal, Crravdal, and Leirdal to
Rejshjem.
1st Day. From Guard Vetti to SkogadaUbeen (6-7 hrs.). Those whd
sleep here may ascend the Skogadalsnaasi in the afternoon. — 2nd Day.
FromSkogadalsbgen lo Slethavn (iQhvsi.). — 3rd Day. To R0jshjem{^-lhvs.).
From Vetti (p. 150) to the Fleskedals-Scetre, 21/2 hrs., see pp. 150,
151. Our route ascends the green Friken (4630 ft. ; the highest point
remains to the right), following the 'Varder', descends after 3/4 hr.,
and then skirts the slope high above the TJtladal, affording a *View
of the Horunger, whose sliarp peaks tower above a vast expanse of
snow: to the left, the Skagastelstinder rising above the Midtuiaradal,
then, the Styggedalstind, the E. buttress of the group, descending
into the Maradal, with the extensive Maradalsbrae (p. 174). To the
S. , in the prolongation of the Utladal, we see the lUejan and the
Fresviksfjeld (p. 137); to the S.E., the Stelsnaastind ; to the E.,
the sharp pyramid of the Uranaastind; to the N., the mountains of
the Skogailal and Utladal.
In 3/4 hr. more we see below us, to the left, on the other side
of the valley, the Vonnelid-Sceters, the starting-point of the first
climbers of the Store Skagastelstind (route from Gjertvasbeen, see
p. 156). In front of us are Skogadalsboen and the Guridals-Sieters
(p. 150). The path descends rapidly through fatiguing underwood
Ib2 R. 22. — Map,p. 146. SKOGADALSP.0EN. Jotunheim.
('Vir') to (3/4 hr.) a small Mrcli-wood. In lOmin. more the lonely
IJradal opens on the right, with an Immense mass of 'Ur', fallen
from the S. slopes. At the E. end of the Uradal rises the Uranaas-
tind (p. 163). We cross the Vradela by a small bridge ('Klop').
We then follow a cattle-track ('Koraak') through sparse birch-wood
at the foot of the Vrabjerg, cross a bridge over the Melkedela or
Skogadela, and (1/2 lir.) reach —
Skogadalsb«fen (2915 ft. ; Cluh Hut), consisting of two sseters,
always inhabited in summer (from 24th June till the beginning of
September). This is an excellent starting-point for excursions in
the E. part of the Horunger (p. 155). — Guide, Erik N. Nyhus.
From Skogadalsb^en we may scale the Skogadalsnaasi (6080 ft. ; 3-4
hrs., there and back), without a guide, by ascending the valley to the
(V2 hr.) Lusahoug (see below) and then climbing to the right. The direct
ascent fi-om the sseters is very steep. Grand mountain-view. — From
Skogadalsb^en we may also ascend the Uranaaslind (p. 163j.
The ascent of the OjertvasHnd (p. 175) takes 8-10 hrs. from Skoga-
dalsb0en, there and back. The ascent proper begins at GJertvasbeen
(2950 ft. ; p. 175) and leads up the Gjertvasnaasi. In I-IV2 hr. we reach the
tirst plateau (4265 ft.), and in 3 hrs. more the GJertvastop (4685 ft.). About
500 ft. higher we reach the base of the peak, then ascend a slope of snow,
and partly over rock, and lastly by a broad crest to the summit.
Continuing our journey through the Utladal, we pass a bridge,
crossed by the path to the Keiseren (p. 175 ), follow the E. bank of
the Utla, pass the abandoned Lusahoug-Sceter, and (3/4 hr.) reach
the confluence of the Store and Vetle Vtla. The latter descends on
the left from the Vetle ('little') Utladal, and forms several falls
over the rocky barrier of the Tunghoug. The Store Utla, along
which the steep path ascends, has forced its passage through the
rocks and dashes along its channel far below. On the left rises the
Hillerhei (5260 ft.). Fine view behind us of the Styggedalstinder
with the huge Gjertvasbrse. Grand scenery.
We next reach a higher region of the Store Utladal and (21/2 hrs.
from Skogadalsberen) cross to the right bank of the Utla by a bridge
(3325 ft. ; the route through the Rauddal to the Gjendebod follows
the left bank of the Utla; see p. 167). The Muran-Sater, which once
occupied this spot, has disappeared. Grand view of the Styggedal-
stinder to the W., the Kirke to the N.E., and the Rauddalstind to
the E. We keep to the right bank. On the S. side we observe the
Skogadalsnaasi and the second Melkedalstind; then a large water-
fall descending from the Rauddalsmund (p. 168), adjoining which
on the N. rise the Rauddalstinder. Nearly opposite the Rauddal is
the stone hut of Stor Hnlleren, used by reindeer-stalkers. In as-
cending we look back at intervals to see the impressive view of the
Horunger. The valley now takes the name of Gravdal. We next
have to wade (best near the Utla) through the Sand-Elv, descend-
ing on the left from the Sjortningsbrse, an offshoot of the Smierstab-
brae, above which towers the curiously shaped Storebj0rn (p. 160).
The path ascends and the flora becomes Alpine. We at length
Jotunheim. LEIRDAL. Map,p.l46. — 22.R. 153
come to the stone refuge-hut on the Leirvand (4930 ft,), 8-9 hrs.
from Skogadalsberen, where the routes from the Gravdal, from the
Leirdal, from the Visdal, and from the Hegvagel (p. 171) converge.
To the E. towers the curiously shaped Kirke (7070 ft.; comp.
below); to the N.E. the Tvcerholtenhorn (about 6890 ft.).
From thk Leikvand to Spiterstdlen in the Visdal, 572-61/2 hrs.,
very arduous. The route skirts the N. side of the Leirvand and crosses
the stream descending from the four tarns of the Kirkec/lup, between the
Kirke on the right and the Tvrerbottenhnrn on the left, as near as possible
to its junction with the Leirvand. We keep to the S. of the first three
tarns, then round the upper end of the third lake, and cross the brook
to the N. side of the valley, above the fourth tarn. We ne.'it descend into
the Upper Visdal, were we wade through the brooks descending from the
Uladalstindor, picking our way through holes and bogs, and hugging the
S. side of the stream as closely as possible. Shortly before joining the
route from Gjende a path (whieh we must look out fi.r) will lead us to the
bridges over two glacier-streams named the Uladalsaa and the Heilstuguaa.
The remainder of the route (to Spiterstulen 2 hrs. more) is described at
p. 172.
Descending the Leirdal, we skirt the vast Ymesfjeld (p. 158)
on the right, but the curious-looking Skarstind (7885 ft.) is the
only one of its peaks visible. To the left are the grand glacier
tongues of the Smerstabbrae and several of the Smerstabtinder. To
the N. of the Storebrae rises the Storebr at ind (7306 ft.). In 2 hrs.
from the Leirvand we reach the saeter of —
Slethavn (owned by Amund Elvesceter; good quarters). To the
W. tower the Stetind and the Skagsnaeb (6560 ft.), both of which
may be ascended by robust mountaineers with good guides (each
8-9 hrs., there and back). Visitors also speak well of the ascent of
the Kirke (see above; guide necessary), with descent through tlie
Gravdal to Skogadalsbeen (p. 152; 12-14 hrs.).
To the left, farther on, appears Loftet (7315 ft.), with its
glaciers. In 2 hrs. more we pass the prettily situated Ytterdcds-
Satre (3085 ft. ; plain quarters), near the lofty fall of the Duma.
We cross the Leira by a bridge and descend by the route described
at pp. 159, 158 to (4-5 hrs.) Rejshjem (p. 157).
d. From Skjolden on the Sognefjord to Fortun and Turtegre.
Iload from Skjolden to Fortun (6 Kil. ; Tarilf I). Good bridle- path
thence to the Turtegre-Sceler (3 hrs.). Guide and horse from Fortun to
Ht*jshjem (p. 157) via Fortun (2 days) 20 kr. ; guide alone 10 kr. (not ne-
cessary for Turtegr0).
Good Guides for the Horv'inger region: Ola J. lievge of Turtegr0 and
Ole N. /Hieiie of Fortun (these two hold certificates from the Turist-Foreniug
and speak English), Tliorgeir Sullieim of Eide, K. Furaas of Fortundal,
Ifalvai- Ilalvarsen and Torger G. Eide of Skjolden, Knud Fortun, of Fortun,
and Jvar ifiene of Turtegro.
Skjolden[jp. 144), a steamboat-station at the head of theLyster-
fjord, an arm of the Sognefjord, lies near the moutlis of the Merker-
eidsdal on the N. and the Fortundal ou the K. The steamboat
Ib^ R. 22.— Map, p. 146. FORTUN. Jotunheim.
pier, where the roads to hoth valleys begin, lies helow the gaard of
Eide (*Thorgeir Sulhehn^s Inn, 4 kr. per day), on an old moraine.
The road to Fortun, from which that to Merkereid (p. 144)
diverges at once to the left, crossing the bridge, follows the course
of the Fortundnls-Elv, past a large ice-house, and skirts the
moraine of Eide. It then leads along the S. bank of the milk-
coloured Eidsvand, beyond which we see the Fortundal, with the
huge precipice of the Jersingnaasi (3088 ft. ; N.) and tlie water-
falls mentioned below. The route next ascends the left bank of
the Fortundals-Elv. The fertile valley is enclosed by wooded slopes.
To the N.E. rises the Fanaraak (p. 160^, behind us lies the fjord.
To the right the Lingsfos falls from a great height. The road skirts
the overhanging rocks of the Smalaberg. On the right is the Kvcefos.
Also on the right, high above us, is Gaard Fuglesteg (p. 149).
6 Kil. Fortun i Lyster (150 ft.), a group of gaards with a new
church. The skyds- station, with Ole N. 0iene''s Inn (good and
moderate), lies l/'o M. above the church.
Walk up tbe Fortundal, with a line view of the Jersingnaasi (see
above) on the left, to the (10-12 min.) Ovabergs-Elv, which issues from the
gorge of Skagagjel in a fine fall and flows down to the Fortundals-Elv in
two arms. Crossing both bridges, and ascending a rough path to the right,
we pass behind the cottages and climb to a rock projecting over the fall (cau-
tion necessary). — We may then go on, in 5 min. more, to a bridge over
tbe Fortundals-Elv and (without crossing it) to a small rocky bill by the
Havshelfos (where wooden steps descend to the salmon-fishing apparatus), and
thus obtain a view of the beautiful valley in both directions, of the Lia-
bnie to tbe N. (in the distance), and of the upper part of the Kvsefos to the S.
The road continues to follow the left bank of the Fortuns-Elv, be-
tween the Tuffen on the left and the Sognefjeld on the right, to Svenshei
(6-7 Kil. from Fortun). It here diminishes to a path and crosses to the
right bank. The valley becomes wilder. To the left is the Svaidalsbroe, to
the right the Liabroe (6100 ft.). At a point about 21/2 hrs. from Svenshwi
we may either ascend to the left over the Kleppeskar or follow the great
bend of the river past the poor gaard of Bagli. Farther on, beyond the
sfeters of Aa and Tvoerdal, we reach (n/2-8 hrs. from Fortun) the —
Narstedals-Sseter (go:id quarters at Mis ^iene's), situated near the open-
ing of the two side-valleys of Midtdalen and Vetledalen, and the starting
point for several lofty Mountain Passes (guides necessary). — 1. We ascend
the Fortundal, with a view of the Steneghrw to the left, and at the foot of
the Krossbakkenose we turn to the right for the Ilvand (4308 ft.), a lake in
the bleakest mountain-environment, at the E. base of tbe huge Tundredals-
kirke (6500 ft.) and covered with ice even in summer. We follow the
E. bank of the lake (rough walking) and ascend for about 275 yds. more,
after which we descend (fine view), partly over glaciers, to the TundredaU-
Scetei- (12-14 hrs from Nizrrstedal), where the night is spent. Next day we
descend via Kvilingen to Aamot, whence we go on to Lindsheim, near the
church of Skeaker (p. 70). — 2. For tbe second pass wc follow the Fortun-
dal us above but ascend to the left at the Krossbakkenose to the Fortun-
dalsbrfv, and cross this, between the Tundredalskirke on the E. and the
Tvseraadalskirke on the W. (as described at p. 67), to the Soia-Sater
(9 hrs.). — 3. We ascend the Fortundal, cross the stream by a new bridge,
and ascend the Qravdal to the glacier. On the W. side of this we descend
through the Gr0ndal to the Fosse-Swler, in the M^rkereidsdal (see p. 144).
A shorter footpath, beginning at the skyds-station, and a bridle-
path (practicable also for baggage-carts), winding up between the
skyds-station and the church, ascend the steep Fortungaldcr, afford-
_£idsb 1 Lparoi.
EnEjl.Miles
3 ^
<•>• '3 "■■:■. V- itf ' "V .ft
Jotunheim. TURTEGR0. Map,p.U6. — 22.R. 155
ing retrospects of the Fortundal. The worst of the ascent is over in
3/4 hr. On the top begins a new carriage-road, which ascends the
fertile Bergsdcd, passing the two gaards of Berge (1085 ft.). Good view
of the falls of the Ouaberys-Elv and of the old road, below. We cross
the Elv by an iron bridge and ascend in a wide curve to the left,
past the gaard of Sevde. In 1/2 ^^- ^e reach tlie second terrace of
tlic valley, where the road comes to an end. The path runs up
and down, affording, at the gaard of Optun, a view of the foaming
Optunsfos. Here begins another steep ascent of 1/2 hr., passing
the Eik-Salre. At the top the Ovabergs-Elv forms the Dokkafos,
near the s;eter of Dokka, while another fall is formed to the right,
high up, by a tributary stream. In front rises the First Dyrhaugs-
tind. To the right, 1/2 lir. beyond Dokka, is the Simogalfos, past
which a path leads to the Riinggadn-Saeters (p. 156), crossing the
Elv, The main route remains on the right bank, passes below the
saeter of Gjessingen, crosses the stream descending from the Skagas-
telsbotn, which forms several fine falls ( Turtegrefossene), and reaches
(about 3 hrs. from Fortun) —
Turtegr* ('2790 ft.), where fair food and tolerable accommodation
may be obtained in the mountain-inns of Ivor 0iene and Ole Berge
(50 beds in all; R., B., or S. 1, D. II/2 tr. ). Horses are usually, and
guides always obtainable here (Ole Jensen Berge and those named
at p. 153). Turtegre is headquarters forexcursions amid the A/oruni^er,
the grandest group of mountains in Jotunheim, with precipitous
slopes and needle-like peaks, from which glaciers descend in all
directions. The district attracts a steadily increasing number of
Danish, Norwegian, and English mountaineers. — About l '2 M.
beyond the inns the path forks, the left branch ascending rapidly
to the Sognefjeld (Rejshjem, p. 157), the right leading to Helgedal
and the Keiseren Pass (p. 175).
One of the finest points of view, and in any case the most easily
accessible, is the -Oscarshoug (3730 ft.), a few paces to the right of the
path to the Sognefjeld, about V2 lir. above Turtegi-0. At the top is a
varde , commemorating the visit of King Oscar II., when Crown Prince,
in 1860. The view embraces the Fanaraak (p. 160); then the Helgedal,
through which leads the route to the Keiseren Pass; farther to the right
and more distant, the Styggedalstinder; nearer, the three huge Skaga-
st0lstinder; the Maradalstind, rising over the extensive Maradalsbrae ; to
the right of the glacier, the Dyrhaugstinder; to the right of these and
farther ofT, the Riingstinder (Soleitind and Austabottind not visible).
Still more extensive is the view from the "Klypenaasi (8757 ft.), to
the N.W. of Gjessingen (see above), which may be ascended in 2-2'/2 hrs.
(guide 2 kr.). It commands the best general survey of the Horunger,
from the Austabottind and Soleitind on the W. to the Styggedalstinder
on the E.
A visit to the grand and wild *'Skagast0lsbotn should on no account
be omitted (there and back 5-6 hrs. ; guide 2 kr.). The route passes
near the two )Si-a?o.«/»;e(sa;ters; right), crosses the stream twice, and ascends
through the valley between the Dyrhaugstinder on the W. and the Kol-
naati (5414 ft.) on the E. The floor of the Skagastelsbotn is covered by
the Skagastelshra; (4430 ft.) which projects its icy fcot into a weird lake,
where the formation and birth of icebergs may be studied most profitably.
156 R.22. — Map,p.l46. DYRHAUGSTIND. Jotunheim.
To the W. of the Dyrhaugatinder opens the *Riingsbotn , a huge
basin also containing a large glacier, surrounded by the Eiingstind, the
Dyrhaugstind, and (W.) the Levnaasi or Nonhougen ^ prolonged towards
the tS. by the Soleitinder and the Austabottinder. The excursion from
Turtegr0 (there and hack) occuines 6 hrs. (guide 2 kr.). At the mouth
of the valley lie the Riinggadu-Satre.
Besides the Riingsbotn and the Skagast0lsbotn we may also visit the
Styggedalsbotn, the easternmost in the Horiinger group, with the magni-
licent Styggedalshrce, bounded on the W. by the Kolnaasi, on the E. by
the Simlenaasi, and on the S. by the Styggedalstinder. The way passes
the Uelgedah-Sceter (p. 175).
One of the tinest easier ascents from Turtegr^* is that of the N. "Dyr-
haugstind (6234 ft.), the nearest of several peaks of the Dyrhaugsfjeld
(with guide, in about 4 hrs.). We ascend rapidly past the Skagastjale to the
top of the Dyrhaug, and follow its crest, partly over 'Ur', to the summit.
The 'View embraces towards the E. the Skagast0lstinder and to the right
of them the wild Maradalstinder; to the W. the Soleitind, Austabot-
tind, and Riingstindcr; due S. the other Dyrhaugstinder. Lower down,
on the left, lies the Skagast0lsbrce, on the right the Riingsbrre. Between
the Skagast^lstinder and the Dyrhaugstinder we see the snow-mountains
on Lakes Bygdin and Tyin; to the N. the Fanaraak and the Sm^rstab-
tinder; to the W. the vast Joatedalsbrfe as far as the Lodalskaupe (p. 146).
The Englishman, Mr. W. C. Slingsby, and the Dane, Jlerr C. HaU, have
been mainly instrumental in destroying the reputation for invincibility,
long enjoyed by the chief peaks of tbe Horunger. According to the report
contributed by the latter to the year-book of the Norwegian Tourist Society
(1896), the following are comparatively easy : Northern SkagastaUtind (about
1220 tt.; Keilhau and Boeck, 1820); the passage of i\\e, SkagasteUhrie to the
Skagastels Hut, which lies on the 'skar' or 'band' (ca. 6740 ft.) above the
Skagast0lsbotn (3-4 hrs. from Turtegr0); and the Fanaraak (p. 160; beyond
the limits of the Horunger district).
The following are more trying: the highest Dyrhaugstind (6895 ft.);
the S. Dyrhaugstinder (ca. 6460 ft.) ; the Gjertvastind O'liOit.); the Slelsmara-
dalstind(&^\.l ft.); the N. Midimaradalstinder (ca. G330 ft.); the middle Riings-
tind (6282 ft.); the E. Riingstind (ca. 6230 ft.); the Skagastelsneb (ca. 7215 ft.);
the S. Maradalslind ; the passage of the Siyggedalsbrce to the Gjertvasbrm.
Suitable for experts "nly, with able guides, are the Store Riingstind
(6910 ft.; there and back 9-10 hrs. ; first ascended bv Hr. C. Hall in 1890);
the Soleitind (6825 ft.; 10 hrs.); the highest Maradals'tinder (ca. 7100 ft.); the
Midtmaradalstind (6310 ft.); the pass over the Riingsbrw and the Stelsmara-
ditlsbrce to Vetti (p. 15'0; and the pass from the Midtmaradalsbrce over the
Midtmaradalstinder to the St0lsmaradalsbr(e.
Still greater experience is required by the Store Styggedalstind (7800 ft. ;
Hall, 1883); the Vesle SkagasiaUtind (7710 ft.; Hall, 1885); the Centraltind
(7750 ft. ; Hall, 1885); and the pass leading from the Maradalsbrw over the
'skar' between the Store Styggedalstind and the Gjertvasiind to the Ojertvasbrm.
The most difficult of all, requiring not less than 12-16 hrs., are the Store
Atistabottind (7225 ft.; Hall, 1883); the Mellemste Skagasterlslind (7665 ft.;
Hall, 1884); the Store Styggedalstind (7805 ft.; Hall, 1883); and the Store
Skagastjalstind (7725 ft.), once thought impossible, like the Jlatterhorn,
but conquered by Jlr. Slingsby in 1876 and now ascended several times
every year (guide 30 kr. ; a hut with a few rugs is the only sleeping-
place; hence to the summit ca. 3 hrs , descent in 2V2 hrs.).
An interesting Glacier Walk of 12-14 hrs. is the passage of the
Skagastelstindskar or Midtmaradalsskar (5758 ft.), between the Skagast^ls-
tind and the Dyrhaugstinder, over the Midtmaradalsbrse to the Midtmara-
dal and the Utladal (p. 151), and down the latter to Vetli (p. 150).
e. From Andvord to R«rjshjem. The Galdh«pig.
Andvord, see p. 66. Tlic road to Hajshjem (14 Kil.) ascends
on the left bank of the Bcevra, often close to the stream. At one
Jotunheim. K0JSHJEM. Map,r:i40.— '2-2.R. 1")7
point, the Siaberg, where there is a mill, the ravine is very narrow,
and huge blocks of rock have fallen into it from above. In the
background rise the (laldheer (7300 ft.), which conceal the Gald-
hepig, and the Juvhra, with their imposing masses of ice and
snow. To the left, on the opposite bank, are the saards of Glinis-
dal and the falls of the Glaama (see below). We pass the gaard Sul-
hjem, on the right, with a waterfall in the gorge, and then the gaard
Gnupnr. The road crosses the Bsevra.
Rfl'jshjem or Redsheim (1800 ft.; Inn kept by Ole Halvorssen
Rejshjem, the oldest guide to the Jotunheim, who speaks English
and knows the country thoroughly, but does not now act as guide ;
house often full; telephone) lies at the junction of the Eaeverdal
and the Visdal (p. 172). and is the best starting-point for tlic
asi'cnt of the GaMhepig and other fine excursions. It is a favourite
resort of the Norwegians for a stay of some duration. By the upper
bridge over the Baevra, about 175 yds. above the hotel, are several
. 'giant-cauldrons', the largest being about 10 ft. in diameter.
The following is a pleasant walk of 1-2 hours. We follow the
Andvord road for 12 min. , and cross the bridge to a rocky hill,
made an island by the two branches of the BaBvra and commanding
a fine view of Rejshjem and the Galdheer. A small foot-bridge
crosses thence to the right bank, on which a pleasant meadow-path
leads to the left through a plantation of alders to Glimsdal , a
group of farms, where the Glaama descends in four falls. We
may then ascend by the broad track on the left bank of the Glaama
in 20 min. more to the gaard Engurrt. at the top of the fall.
The Ascent of thk G.vLDHerrG offers no particular difficulty
and during the height of the season is acromplished daily, often by
Norwegian ladies. The night is spent in the Jiivvashytte (4-5 hrs.),
whence the summit is reached in 2l/o-3 hrs. more.
We follow the Baiverdal road (p. 159) for 2 M., and near a white
church ascend the bridle-path to the left to (1 V2 'ir.) the Raubergs-
Stele, which may also be reached by a direct footpath in II/2 lir.
We next ascend to the S.W. to (1 hr.) the barren and stony Galde-
hei (5240 ft.), which the bridle-path, however, avoids. Towards
tlic E. the view is confined to the Glittertind. In ll/2hr- more wo
reach the Juwashytte fca. 6230 ft.; 20 beds, good and not dear,
but often full), the property of the guide Knud Olsen Vole. Ad-
ja'-ent is the small Juvvand, backed by the TverbrcF. against which
the semicircular cliffs of Kjedelen (7'iOO ft.) are seeTi in relief. Ad-
mirable view of the Troldsteinshacr and the Glittertind to the E.
and of the Memurutinder, the Beshe, etc., to the S.E.
At the Juvvashytte begins the ascent proper (guide 6 kr., each
additional person 2 kr. ; Knud Vole orhis son). A fair path leads over
stony debris to the snow-flelds. In front we have a continuous view
of the summit of the Galdhepig and the rocky arete of the Sveilnaasi,
with the Keilhaustop and Sveilnaaspig, looking almost black as they
158 R.2l>.~-Mirp,p.l46. GALD1I0PIG. Jotunheim.
rise above tlie white snovv-flelds of the Styggehrcn or Vetljuvbrce.
Crossing snow and a stony tract, we reach the 'Varde' (6365 ft.)
on the Styggebrae in l-li/2lir., and take 3/4-I hr. more to cross the
glacier (beware of the crevasses). We next ascend a ridge of rock
covered with loose stones. Lastly we mount a toilsome snowy art'te
to the (Y2 tr.) summit, with a shelter-hut, stocked with coff( e,
port, and champagne.
The **Galdh«'pig (8400 ft.; accent on first syllable), the loftiest
mountain in Norway, is the highest peak of the Ymesfjeld, a pecu-
liar mountain-plateau with precipitous sides, enclosed by the val-
leys of the Leira, Visa, and Bjevra, and connected with the other
mountains of Jotunheim by the H^gvagel (p. 171) only. The view
is marvellously extensive. On the N.E. it extends to the Snehwtta
(p. 72) and the Rondane (p. 75), to the left of the Glittertind
(p. 173), which is about the same height as the Galdhepig; to the
S.E., S., and S.W. extends the whole of Jotunheim; to the S.
the Gausta (p. 32), 125 M. distant, is said to be visible in clear,
weather beyond the Uladalstinder; to the S.W. are the Smerstab-
tinder and the Horunger ; to the W. are the Jostedalsbrse and the
Nordfjord mountains. No inhabited valleys are visible.
A fair path leads from I he Juvvashytte across a glacier and then down,
linally crossing the Vita bridge, to Spitersiulen (p. 172). — Another path
descends to the W. to the Elve-Sater (p. 159).
The Lomsegg (8885 ft.), to the N. of R^'ishjem, may be ascended on
horseback via the gaard Sulheim (p. 157) in 5-6 hrs. Imposing view of the
Glittertind and Galdh«(pig, and of the Smffrstabbrapigge and the Fanaraak
to the S.W. The view of the valley is also very picturesque.
The view from the Hestbraepigge (6095 ft.) reveals the Jotunheim
range in longer array than that from the Lomsegg. Riding practicable part 1 f
the way. The latter part of (he ascent over snow and ice is nearly level.
From R0jshjem to Lake GJende, see pp. 173-171.
f. From Rejshjem over the Sognefjeld to Turtegref.
1st Day. To the Bwver tun -Sailer, a walk of 6-6'/2 hrs. ; driving practic-
able to (8 Kil.) the Elve-Sceter. — •2nd Day. To Turlegre, 7-8 hrs. (path
well marked by 'varder', but guide desirable). Horse and guide from
R0jshjem to Fortun (p. 154) via Turtegr0, 20 kr.
Rejshjem, see p. 157. A carriage-road ascends through the
Bceverdal (or Beverdal), on the rightbank of the stream, to (41/9 Kil.)
Bceverdals Kirke. On the W. side of the valley is Bakkeberg, with
large farm-buildings amid smiling corn-fields. The road, partly
hewn in the rock, ascends steeply through the grand gorge of Gal-
derne, with its overhanging cliffs. Farther on the ravine exfands
to a pleasant basin, with the gaards of Horten, where grain and
potatoes are cultivated. To the left, above us, are the ends of the
glaciers on the N. side of the Galdhfrpig. About 2 Kil. from the
Bffiverdal church the road crosses the Leira, which falls into the
Baevra a little lower down, and then follows the valley of the
latter, passing the ssters of Rusten and Flekken.
Jotunheim. li.l' VKRDAL. Map,p. U6. — -J'J. li. 159
Just before reaching the bridge the route to Turtcgr^ (narrow
cart-track) turns to thf left into the Leirdal. After following the
right bank of the Leira for 2 Kil. more, it reaches the bridge below
the large farm of Elve-Sseter (good accommodation), situated on the
opposite side of the river and surrounded by tilled fields and pas-
tures. This has recently become a favourite starting-point for the
ascent of the Galdhepig (via the Mykings-Sater to the Juvvashytte,
with guide, d^/o-i hrs.).
Beyond the Elve-Saeter a tolerable bridle-path ascends the valley,
above the left bank of the Leira. To the left are the slopes of tlie
Store Juvbra, with the Lille Galdhepig in the background, and the
Store Grovbro'. A bridge, leading to the Leirdals-ScEter, is passed
on our left. To the right, fully an hour from the Elve-Saeter, are
the two Lisatre. On the left descends the Ilfos; facing ns is Loftet
(p. 153), with its extensive glaciers; nearer, on the left, ou the
other side of the Leira, is the high fall of the Duma, below which
lie the Ytterdals-Saetre.
About 2 hrs. from the Elve-Saeter we leave the Leirdal (through
which a path leads past the Ytterdals-Saetre to the Leirvand; see
p. 153) and ascend to the right to the Bceverkjwm-Hals (about
3600 ft.; 'Hals', a pass). We here obtain a fine *View of the flat
upper basin of the Leirdal , set in snow-mountains and glaciers.
At the Bakkeberg-Sater, about 8 hrs. from the Elve-Sfeter, we come
in sight of the Heildalvand, from which the Bakke-Elv issues in a
waterfall, and of the Blaahei, generally covered with snow.
We now descend, passing the BceverkjcFrn, with its numerous
promontories and Si'eters (right ), into the Upper Baeverdal, which
we follow to its head. The path skirts the S.E. bank of the lake,
and after 1/4 hr., near the Kusten-Sater, crosses a new bridge over
the noisy Baevra (the old bridge, '/4^'"- farther on, was destroyed in
1897). We then follow the N. slope of the valley for l'/4 hr., above
the Baverlunvand (3046 ft.), to the W. of which rises the Dumhe.
At the W. end of the lake we at length reach (41/2 Ins. from Elve-
Saeter) the —
Bsevertun-Sseter (3050 ft.), two houses with good quarters for
10-12 persons and tolerable food.
About 1 4 hr. after leaving Basvertun the route to the Sogne-
f.jcld (recently improved) crosses the Dommabro or Dombrui, where
the Doinina, shortly before its junction with the Bievra, flows under-
ground. We then ascend for about 1^/4 hr. through the monotonous
valley to the Nupshaug, a curious rocky knoll in the middle of the
valley. Adjoining it is a fall of the Baevra; to the left are two other
waterfalls. We now ascend rapidly to the left to a higher region
of the valley, pass (l/2hr.) the ruined stone hut of Krosboden, and
see to the left the ^Smerstabbrce, one of the grandest glaci-ers in
Norway, overtopped by the Smerstabtinder. Of these peaks either
the Saksa or the serrated Skejn may be ascended from the BaRvcr-
160 R.22. — Map,p. 146. SOGNEFJELD. Jotimheim.
tun-Sseter with a good guide in 12-14 hrs. (there and hack); the
highest peak, the Storebjern ('Big Bear' ; 7510 ft. ; ascended for the
first time hy Hr. Carl Hall in 1835), to the S., is more difficult and
takes longer. The Bsevra issues from the Sm^rstahhrffi.
In 3/4 hr. from Kroshoden we come to the first of the stone varder
with which the whole route across the Sognefjeld (or DeUfjelct) is
marked. In ^j^^r. more we reach the highest point of the Fjeld (ca.
4900 ft.), whence we enjoy a superb *View of the Smerstabbrse and
the Smarstabtinder. We here cross the boundary of Bergens-Stift.
To the left lies the Rauskjeldvand, the first of the large lakes, with
which the plateau Is strewn. About 1 hr. from the summit of the
fjeld is a curious varde called the '■Kammerherre\ a high mass of
rock with a pointed stone on the top. Farther on, to the left, is the
extensive Prestesteinvand, with its numerous bays, which we skirt
for about 2 hrs. In the distance, to the E., beside the Smerstab-
tinder, rises the Kirke (p. 153), to the S.E. theUranaastind (p. 163).
The glaciers descending from the Fanarauk (6690 ft.) almost join
the Prestesteinvand on the S. Farther on the route descends to the
^errewand, crossing its discharge by the wooden //erreua«6rM/('Brui',
bridge ; 4305 ft.). The Smerstabtinder now disappear from the
retrospect. — The route rounds the W. buttress of the Fanaraak
and descends to the Juvvand (4115 ft.). To the right, in the
distance, lies the broad back of the Jostedalsbrae. In front rises
the whole range of the Hon'mger, including the Riingstinder, the
Dyrhaugstinder, and the Skagastelstinder. The best point of view
is the *Oscarshoxig (p. 155), a slight eminence to the left of the
path, 11/2 ir. from the Herrevasbrui.
We now descend by a good path to (V2 ^r.) Turtegre (p. 155),
reached after a walk of about 8 hrs. from Baivertun.
g. From Skogstad or Nystuen to Lake Tyin and Eidsbugaren
or Tyinsholmen.
The distance from Skogstad to Framnics, on Lake Tyin, is 11 Kil.
(pay for 17); from Nystuen it is 10 Kil. (pay for 16). The excursion
thence via Tvindehougen to the top of the SHnegff, and back via Tyinsholmen.,
takes 8-9 hrs. Those who are making the tour sketched at pp. 148, 149
pass the ni^ht at Tyinsholmen. Others may go on from Framnfes to
Nystuen (p. 57) the same evening.
The road to Lake Tyin, diverging from the Valders road be-
tween Skogstad and Nystuen (p. 57), crosses the foaming Bjer-
dela, descending from the left near the Opdals-Sater (2940 ft.),
and ascends steadily along the slope of the Stelsnesi (to the right,
the Raubergskamp, p. 57) to the —
Hotel Framnces (very fair; R. IV4-IV2) I^- -2 kr., B. or S. 80 0.),
situated close to the S. end of Lake Tyin, 6 Kil. from the parting
of the ways. The Hotel Tyin, behind, is less comfortable. Fine
distant view, over the lake, of the steep Urauaastind and other
Jotunheim. LAKE T YIN. Map, p. 7 40. — 92. R. 161
peaks. — The ascent of the Storgalden, which affords a wide pan-
orama, takes 2i/o-3 hrs. (there and back; rough path; guide 1 kr.).
Lake Tyin (3535 ft.) is 14 Kil. long, 1-21/2 Kil. broad, and at
places over 300 ft. deep. Its banks, like those of the other Jotun-
heim lakes, are uninhabited, except by a few 'Fsekarle' (cowherds)
in summer. The masses of snow in the hollows, often reaching
down to the water's edge , enhance the appearance of desolate
loneliness. — The row across the lake from Framn^ea to Tvinde-
hongen (for 1 , 2, 3 persons with 1 rower 2 kr. 40, 2 kr. 80, 3 kr. 20 ». ;
with 2 rowers 3 kr. 60, 4 kr. 40, 5 kr. 20 e. ) takes at least 2 hrs.,
to Tyinsholmen 3 hrs. (for 1, 2, 3, 4 persons with 1 rower 2 kr. 80,
3 kr. 20, 3 kr. 60 0., 4 kr. ; with 2 rowers 4 kr., 4 kr. 80, 5 kr. 50,
6 kr. 20 0.). The Melkedalstinder become prominent to the right
of the Uranaastind as we proceed. To the left we see the large W.
bay, whence the Aardela issues ; farther on are the Koldedal and
Koldedalstind (p. 163). The Falketind and other peaks also come
into sight. The general view is highly picturesque.
Travellers bound for the Skinegg disembark at Tvindehougen,
a dilapidated club-hut of the Turist-Forening.
The *Skinegg(4800ft.)is ascended from Tvindehougen in ll/2hr.
The way can scarcely be missed, though there is no path. From
the hut we go at first towards the N., in a line almost parallel
with the bank of the lake. Beyond the first brook we turn towards
the hill, and then ascend on the left bank of the second brook.
A 'stone man' on the ridge, near the brook, which we cross at this
point (40 min.), serves as a guide. Similar piles of stones farther
on also indicate the way, which crosses some patches of snow and
passes to the right of a small lake. The best point of view is the
N. peak, to the left; the S. peaks, though higher (5145 ft. and
5266 ft.), lie too far back.
View (see p. 162). To the S. we survey part of Lake Tyin (not Tviudo-
hougen) and the whole of tlic Fillefjeld, with the Stugun0se near Nystuen
and the majestic Suletind ^5810 ft.). Of more absorbing interest are the
mountains to the W. and N., where the Breikvamseggen, the Gjeldedals-
tinder (7090 ft.) and Koldedalstinder (p. 163; Falketind, St/alsnaastind), with
their vast mantles of snow, and farther distant the Horunger (beginning
with the Skagasf0l3tind on the left, and ending with the Styggedalstind
to the right ; p. 155), rise in succession. Next to these are the Fleskedals-
tinder, the Langeskavl, the Uranaastind (p. 163), the Melkedalstinder, the
Sjugultind, and other peaks. To the N. rise the mountains on the N.W.
side of Lake Gjendc, and still more prominent are the Sletmarkh0,
Galdebergstind, and Thorfinstinder on Lake Bygdin. Of that lake itself
the W. end only is visitile, with the huts of Eidsbugaren.
The descent to Tyinsholmen on the N.W. or to Eidsbugaren on
the N. takes about 1 hr. Towards the foot of the latter route we
have to cross several arms of a copious stream descending from the
lakes on the 'Eid' between Lake Tyin and Lake Bygdin.
Tyinsholmen (Hotel, with 20 beds, very fair, English spoken;
boat-skyds to Framnses, see p. KiO) lies at the N.E. end of Lake
Tyin and is a good starting-point for several fine excursions (see
Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 11
162 R.22.- Map. p. 146. SKINEGG.
1 flfi ^
Jotunheim.
fin
1 Ml « 1^
\.,.
/ ,11 \
^^
■Mi
vfi
il
Jotunheim. EIDSBUGARF.N. Map,p.ljn.- .-22. R. 163
below). — A broad road leads hence over the 'Eid' (isthmus) to
(3/4 hr.) the —
Eidsbugaren Hotel, at the W. end of Lake Bygdin (p. 164; ca.
3490 ft. above the !;ea). It is one of the oldest hotels In Jotunheim,
but it is not so comfortable as the hotel at Tyinsholmen.
The Ascent of the Langeskavl, there and back, takes half-a-day
(guide necessary, 2 kr.}. We proceed to the E. from Eidsbugaren up the
course of the Melkedela (p. 173), and at the tup of the hill, instead of
turning to the right into the Melkedal, enter a side-valley to the left,
where we keep as far a^ possible to the right. The bare summit of the
Langeskavl (0115 ft.) towers above masses of snow. The view embraces
the mountiiins seen to the W. of the Skinegg, to which we are now
nearer, and also the whole of Lake Bygdin as far as the liitihorn.
The Ascent of the Ukanaastind from Eidsbugaren takes 6-7 hrs.,
or a whole day there and back (guide necessary, 4 kr.). We follow the
route to the Langeskavl, which after a time we leave to the W. in order
to ascend the extensive Uranaashvae. We cross that glacier to the Brw-
skar, whence we look down into the Skogadal to the W. (p. 174). Lastly
an ascent on the N. side of about 800 ft. more to the summit of the 'TJra-
naastind (7u45 ft.), the highest E. point of the Uranaase, which is always
free from snow. The extensive view vies with that from the Galdh0pig
(p. 158). Towards the W. the Uranaastind descends precipitously into the
Uradal (p. 152). To the E. it sends forth two glaciers, the UranaasbrEe,
already mentioned, and the Melkedalsbrw, the E. arm of which descends
into the Jlelkedal (p. 173), while the N. arm, divided by the Melkedals-
pigye and furrowed with crevasses, descends partly into the Melkedal, and
partly into the Skogadal fp. 174).
The Koldedalstind or Falketind (6700 ft.), to the N.W. of Lake Tyin,
ascended in 1820 by Prof. Keilhau and C/ir. Boeck, and the first of the Jo-
tunheim mountains ever climbed, is ascended in 8-10 hrs. (guide 4 kr.).
We ascend the valley of the Koldedela (p. 151) to the foot of the Falke-
tind, and climb to the top, most of the way over glaciers. — The dangerous
descent to the Koldcdal should be avoided; better return by the same
route.
•Excursion to the Store Melkedalsvand. see p. 174. — Through the
Koldedal to the Fleskedals-Swire and Vetli, see p. 150.
h. From Fagemses to the Hotel Jotnnheim, and up Lake
Bygdin to Eidsbugaren.
Two days. 1st Day. Drive to (56 Kil.) the Hotel Jotunheim. — 2nd Day.
Ascend the Bitihorn early, 3-4 brs. there and back; row up Lake Bygdin
to Eidsbugaren in 6-8 hrs. This approach to the .lotunheim is apt to be
tedious owing to the long and sometimes windy passage of Lake Bygdin.
Fagerncrs, see p. 55. — The road, which diverges to the right
from the Valders route at the Fagerluiid Hotel, ascends the valley of
the 0stre-Slidre-Elv, running a little way from the left bank of the
stream. Nearly level at first, it rapidly ascends through wood. To
the left, below, lies theSalbo-Fjord, with several gaards high above
it, and snow-mountains in the distance. We pass, on the right, the
loftily situated church of SIcrutvold or Skruivaal and (farther on)
that of liogne. Below us, to the left, is the Voldlo-Fjord, at the
N. end of which is the church of Voldho, whence a narrow road leads
to the left, over the Siidreaas, to ("26 Kil.) Fosheim and ('20 KiL)
Leken (see p. 55).
Our road crosses the Vinde-Elv, and then skirts the Haggefjord.
11*
164 R.22.— Map,p.l46. HOTEL JOTUNHEIM. Jotunheim.
23 Kil. Hseggenses Hotel (very fair). — To the E. rise tlie
Mellene mountains, the W. slope of which is the 0iangenshei, a
splendid point of view (ascent 3-3'/2 ^rs. ; guide 1 kr. 60 0.),
The road now ascends steeply to Hcegge and the chief church of
0stre Slklre, an old 'Stavekirke' (p. 29), existing at least as early
as 1327, but largely rebuilt. To the left is the gaard of Northorp.
Farther on, also to the left, are the Dalsfjord and the Merstafjord,
connected by a river with each other and with the Hedalsfjord.
11 Kil. Skammestein (good quarters). Farther on the road runs
above the Hedalsfjord. Beyond Okshovd, where a road to the Hedal-
Saeters diverges to the right, the main road bends to the left towards
Lake 0iangen. Fine view of the lake, with the Slettefjeld, Mug-
natind, and Bitihorn (see below). We pass the Beito-Saters.
The road ascends gradually and crosses a marshy plateau enclosed
by mountains. To the W. is the Mugnatind, and to the N. the
Bitihorn (see below), on the E. side of which the road leads across
a pass. Farther on it crosses the Vinstra, the discharge of Lake
Bygdin, and ends at the —
22 Kil. Hotel Jotunheim, at the E. end of the liaufjord, an arm
of Lake Bygdin, so called from the iron with which its water is im-
pregnated ('raud', 'red', meaning 'red').
The ascent of the "Bitihorn (5250 ft.) from the Hotel Jotunheim takes
4-5 hrs., there and back (guide not indispensable). We ascend the W.
slope the whole way, keeping well to the left of several swamps at the
beginning. The 'Horn' soon becomes visible, serving as a guide. For
an hour the route traverses 'Rab\ or ground covered with underwood
(juniper, dwarf birches, Arctic willows), and the soft soil peculiar to
the Norwegian mountains, and for another hoiir it ascends steep rocks.
Magnificent view of the imposing Alpine landscape to the W., and of the
vast plateau to the E., relieved by several peaks and large lakes.
From the Hotel Jotunheim to Eidsbugaben by boat in 8 his.
(for 1, 2, 3 persons with two rowers 8kr. AO0., lOkr., 12kr.). —
From the Raufjord a narrow strait leads to Lake Bygdin (3484 ft.),
the largest of the three lakes of Jotunheim, about 25 Kil. in length
from K. to W., ll/2-2V2Kil- in breadth, and at places 1700 ft. deep.
On the N. it is bounded by lofty mountains, on whose steep slopes
large herds of cattle are pastured. The S. bank is lower and less
picturesque. Storms sometimes make the navigation of the lake
impossible. To walk along the N. bank to Eidsbugaren (12-14 hrs.)
is wearisome, though free from danger since the Tourist Club
improved the path and bridged the streams.
The boat skirts the N. bank. On the right we first observe the
Sund-Sater ani the mouth of the Breilaupa. (Path to Gjendesheim,
see p. 171.) About 4 Kil. farther on are the 'Falseger' of Hestvolden,
whence we may ascend the *Kalvaahegda (7160 ft.), a still finer
point than the Bitihorn, affording a magnificent view of Jotunheim.
We next pass the deep Thorfinsdal (p. 165), with remains of
old moraines at its entrance. At the base of the Thorftnstind
(6932 ft.) we then reach the Langedals - Sater, and close to it
Jotunheim. LAKE BYGDIN. Map, p. 146.— 2^. R. 165
Nyboden, a dilapidated clialet. The ascent of the Thorflnstind
hence takes 7 hrs. (there and back}. The view is said to rival that
from the Kalvaahegda.
From Nyboden to Lake Gjende (p. 166), two routes. One, very grand,
hut toilsome, leads (o the N.W. through the Langedal, passing the Lattge-
dnlstjwvn (4iKK) ft.), and crossing the Langedalsln-w (6233 ft.) lietwcen the
Slelmavkpig (7070 ft.) on the left and the SvartdaUpigge (7030 ft.) on the right,
into the Vale Aadal. Guide (2kr.) rarely to be found at Nyboden. The other
route, preferable and comparatively easy (4-5 hrs. ; guide, not indi.spen.sable,
2kr.), leads through the Thorfinsdal and the Svartdal. It ascends steeply at
tirst on the W. side of the Thorllnsdals-Elv, commanding the whole valley,
which is separated from the Svartdal to the N. by a 'Band\ or tableland
with a series of lakes (p. 147). The path then follows theE. side of the valley.
To the left, farther on, we obtain a superb view of the Thorfinslntl, a basin
formed by the Thorfinstinder; before us rise, the. three Knutshulstindei\ enclo.s-
ing the Knuls/iul, but the highest (7680 ft.) of them is not visible. The
highest part of the route is reached at the S. end of the long 'Tjpern' (tarn ;
4786 ft.), to the left, whence we see the mountains to the N. of Lake Gjende,
particularly the pointed Semmeltind. Beyond a second, and smaller, lake
(4750 ft.) and a glacier descending from the Svartdalspigge, we enter the
Svartdal, and follow the right (E.) bank of the Svartdela; to the left
towers the highest SvartdaUpig (7030 ft.). We then cross to the left bank,
and soon reach the huge precipice descending to Lake Gjende, called
Ojendehrynet, through which the Svartd0]a has worn a deep gorge, the
Svartdalsglvp. We may either follow the latter from varde to varde,
or, better, ascend a ridge covered with loose stones to the left to the
'Svartdalsaaxle (58U6 ft.), which commands a superb survey of the whole
N. side of .Totunheim. Far below lies Lake Gjende (From the Svart-
dalsaaxle we may ascend the highest Svartdalspig without difficulty.)
We now descend to the W., below the Langedalsbrse, at first rapidly over
loose stones (caution necessary), and then over soft grass; then by the
course of the glacier-stream into the Vesle-Aadal, whence we soon reach
the Ojendehod (p. 166). Or, on reaching Lake Gjende, we may shout for
a boat to ferry us across (10 min ).
Voyaging on Lake Bygdln, we next pass the Langedals-Elv,
and then the Oaldehcrgi>iinder (6805 ft.), from which falls the
Galdebergsfos. On the S. side of the lake rises Dryllenesen
(4934 it.'). Hounding the sheer rocks of the Galdeberg, we observe
to the right above us the Gdldebergstind, and facing us the Lange-
i^kavl (or Rustegg') with the Uranaastind (p. 163), an imposing
scene. On the right next opens the valley of the Helstnkkct, which
forms a waterfall. To the S.W. rise the Koldedalstinder (p. 163),
and lastly, to the 8., the Skinegg (p. 161). Looking back, we
observe the three peaks of the Sletmarkpig (p. 166). The lake
owes its milky colour here to the Melkedela, a genuine glacier-
torrent. After a row of 8 hrs. we reach Eidsbugaren (p. 163).
i. From Tyinsholmen or Eidsbugaren to the Gjendebod
on Lake Gjende.
From Eidsbugaren to the OJendehvd, 5-6 hrs., from Tyinsholmen '^ hr.
more. The path is bad but provided with guide-posts (guide, advisable,
2 kr. 40 0., horse 4 kr.).
Tyinsholmen and Eidsbugaren, see pp. 161-163. From Eids-
bugaren we follow the N. bank of Lake Bygdin, cross (10 min) the
166 I{.22. — Map,p.l46. GJENDEBOD. Jotiinheim.
rapid Melkedela (p. 165) l)y a narrow wooden bridge, and skirt the
lake to (1 hr.) the mouth of the Heistakka, We cross this stream
hy a rickety wooden bridge a little higher up, but horses have to
ford it. This point may also be reached hy boat (with one rower,
for 1, 2, 3 persons, 80 e., 1 kr., or 1 kr. 20 0.).
We now ascend rapidly along the left bank of the Heistakka,
which descends from the heights in several fine cascades. In about
1 hr. we reach the long lake o{ Ueistakljernet (ca. 4100 ft.), the E.
side of which we skirt for about 1/4 hr. To the right towers the
Oxdalshe (5555 ft.). AVe pass another small lake and cross (1/2 hr.)
a brook. To the left rises the Grenneherg (4210 ft.), at the foot
of which lies the Grennebergstjern (4110 ft.), traversed by the
Ileristakka. To the right is the huge ^^^efmaWcp/^ (7070 ft.), from
which the SletmarkbrcE descends to the N. into the Vesle Aadal.
The route ascends rapidly, passing to the W. of a small lake, to
(40 min.) the pass between the Gjeilhe (4790 ft.; W.) and the
Rundtom (4870 ft. ; E.), where we obtain a view to the N.E. of the
Semmeltind, with its large glacier, and the Beshe (p. 170).
The descent into the Vesle Aadal follows the course of the
stream, either wholly on the left bank or crossing it twice according
to the state of the path. After a time we enjoy an open view of
Lake Gjende , with the Memurutunge to the left, and then the
Beshe and the Veslefjeld. To the right, over the Vesle Aadal,
tower the Svartdalspigge. About 1 hr. from the head of the pass,
after crossing for the last time to the left bank of the stream, the
path forks. The right branch, descending direct to the lake, is
used if the guide has a boat ready. Otherwise we proceed to the
left, round the E. flank of the Gjendetunge (p. 167), to a bridge
over the brook emerging from the Store Aadal (p. 167), and descend
along its left bank.
Fairly experienced mounfain-climbers should combine the ascent of
the OJendeiunffe (p. 167), bounding the valley on the W., with this route
(a digression of 11/2-2 hrs.). About 20-25 min. after crossing the above-
mentioned plateau we bend to the left and ascend to the N. over the debris
on the steep slope of the Timgepigge, opposite the glacier of the Sletraark-
pig. Another hour, on the U.W. side of the Tungepigge, brings us to the
first summit of the Gjendetunge. falling pvecipitously to Lake Gjende.
The descent leads to the Store Aadal (p. 167).
The Gjendebod (20 beds; good entertainment, B. 70 0., D.
11/2 kr.), a tourists' hut at the entrance to the Store Aadal, lies at
the foot of the precipices of the Memurutunge and close to Lake
Gjende. It affords good headquarters for several excursions. In
the background of the valley rises the snow-clad Skardalseggen.
Guide, Nils K. Storstensrusten. — Boat to the Memurubod with
1 rower for 1, 2, or 3 pers., 2 kr., 2 kr. 40, 3 kr. 20 0., with
2 rowers 3 kr. 60 0., 4 kr. , 4 kr. 80 0. ; to Gjendesheim with
1 rower 3 kr. 20 0., 4 kr., 5 kr. 20 0., with 2 rowers 6 kr. , 6 kr.
80 0., or 8 kr.
*Lake Gjende (3210 ft.), 18 Kil. long, 1-1 1/2 Kil- hroad, and
Jotunheim. LAKE GJENDE. Map, p. 146. —22. R. 167
480 ft. deep at places, extends fromW. to E., ■where the Sjoa, a
tributary of the Laageii, issues from it. On both sides it is enclosed
by abrupt mountains, of which the Beshe (7585 ft.), on the N. or
'Solside', and the Knutshidstind (7680 ft.) and Svartdalsplg
(7030 ft.), on the S. or 'Bagside', are the highest. These peaks are
not seen from the Gjendebod, but become visible as we ascend the
Store Aadal. There are few places on the banks of the lake where
landing or walking for any distance is practicable. The colour of
the water is green, especially when seen from aheiglit. The lake is
fed by several wild glacier-torrents. Storms often make boating
impossible for days together, and the N. wind sometimes divides
in the middle of the lake and blows E. and W. at the same time.
The Ascent of the Memcrutunge takes abdut 4 brs., there and back,
or includin[5 the descent to the Memurubod 6 hrs. at least (guide 2 kr.).
From the Gjendebod we may either make the very steep ascent to the E.
by the liukkelccger or the Begstuelefte (dangerous without a guide), or fol-
low the bridle-path through the Store-Aadal for about l'/2 hr., ascending
the left bank of the stream, and then mount rapidly to the right (prac-
ticable for riding ; see p. 171). The "Memurutunge, a plateau about~5020 ft.
in height, with snow-fields, small lakes, and interesting Alpine flora, forms
a kind of mountain-peninsula, bounded on the W. by the Store Aadal, on
the S. by Lake Gjende, and on the E. and N. by the Memuru-Elv. Farther
N. it is encircled by lofty snow-mountains.
The View embraces, to the S, the Knutshulstind with its deep 'Hul',
the Svartdalsplg, and between them the deep Svartdal ; then the Langedal
and the Slctmarkpig; to the W. rise the pointed Melkedalstinder and
Rauddalstinder, pr<iminent among which is the Skarvdalstind, all near the
Rauddal. To the N.W. lies the Langevand with the Sm0rstabtinder, the
Kirke, and the Tladalstinder. To the!N. the Hinaatjcrnhf*, Memurutinder,
and Tjukningssuen. To the E., the Besh0. — Instead of returning the same
way, it is far more interesting to traverse the Memurutunge to its E. end
(guide) and then make the steep descent to the Memurubod. In this case
a boat must be ordered to meet the traveller there. This detour adds
about 2 hrs. to the excursion.
The view from the (2 hrs.) Gjendetunge (5095 ft.) is one of the finest
in Jotunheim and is superior to that from the Memurutunge in command-
ing a survey of the whole lake. We cross the bridge to the W., follow
the path on the W. bank of the river to the N. for about '/z ^^■■: and
then ascend steeply to the left.
The ascent of the highest Knutshulstind (7680 ft.), from the Gjende-
bod, through the Svartdal (p. 165), takes about 8 hrs. (for experts only).
From the G.iendebod through the Eadddal to Skogadalsb^en,
10-12 hrs. (guide 7 kr.). The route leads up the Slofe Aadal on the
right bank to a C/zhr.) waterfall formed by a brook descending from the
GrisletjaTn. It then ascends rapidly to the left. Farther on it crosses
the brook and leads on the N. side of the Onsletjcern (4590 ft.) and the
following tarns to the RauddaUhoug (3 hrs. from the Gjendebod), where
the Rauddal begins. This grand, but at first unpicturesque, valley, with
its almost unbroken series of lakes, lies to the N. of and parallel with
the Melkedal (p. 173). On reaching the 'Band", or culminating point, we
enjoy superb 'Views in both dircclions : to the right rise the liauddalsUnder
(7410 ft.; first ascended by Hr. Carl Hall in 1890; 7-8 hrs.-, not difficult;
guide indispensable) ; to the left is (he Molkedalstind with its sheer pre-
cipice, and between them peeps the Fanaraak (p. 160) in the distance;
looking back, we observe tlic Uauddalstind on the left, the Sjugulstind
on the right, and l)clwcen them the Slelmarkpig (p. 165) with a great
amphitheatre of glaciers. It takes about I'/z br. to cross the 'Band% from
which a route leads to the W. round the Svartdalsegg to the Langvand
168 K.'J2. — Map,j).146. RAUDDAL. Jotunheim.
and the Store Aadal (a round of 10-12 hrs. from the Gjendebod). We
next cross the Rauddals-Elv by a snow-bridge and traverse toilsome 'Ur'
and patches of snow on the S. side of the valley, skirting a long lake for
the last IV2 lir. (patience very necessary). As we approach the "Kauddals-
mund , the precipice with which the Kauddal terminates towards the
Store Utladal, the scenery again becomes very grand. A view is obtained
of the mountains of the Utladal and Gravdal , including the curiously
shaped Storebj^rn (p. 160), from which the Sjortningsbrw descends. To
the E. we survey the whole of the Eauddal, flanked by the Rauddalstinder
on the N. and the Melkedalstind (p. 174) on the S. The red ('raud')
'gabbro' rock here has given rise to the name of the valley. The route
now descends on the S. side of the grand waterfall of the Rauddals-Elv to
the Store Utladal^ about 21/2 hrs. from Skogadalsb0en, aee p. 152.
The *Row down Lake Gjeiide to Gjendeosen requires 81/2-
41/2 hrs. in fine weather ( fares, p. 166). Soon after starting we obtain
a view to the S. of the Svartdal (p. 165), at the entrance of which
lies the cattle-shed of Vaageboden. To the N. rise the slopes of
the Memurutunge (p. 167). About halfway down the lake, at the
mouth of the Memurudal, from which issues the muddy Memuru-
Elv, crossed by a bridge, are the club-hut of Memurabod and the
inn of Ole O. Sveine. In the background of the valley is the abrupt
ridge of the Tjukningsuen (7916 ft.). Towards the N.E. the Beshe
is conspicuous during the greater part of the trip, and more to the
E. the Veslefjeld descends abruptly to the lake. To the S. of the
lake towers the Knutshulstlnd, with its glacier.
From the Memurubod an interesting and (with guide) comparatively
easy glacier-pass leads to Spilersiulen (11 hrs. ; p. 172). We ascend the
Memurudal to the W. iJemurubrce , (raver.se this to the pass adjoining the
HeiUtuguhe (p. 172), and descend the Heilstuguhrce to the Vi.sdal (p. 172).
At the E. end of the lake, on the N. bank of its effluent the
Sjoa, lie the club-hut and hotel of Gjendesheim (see p. 169).
k. From Vinstra in the Gudbrandsdal to Gjendesheim.
Two Days. A rough road (though preferable to the route through the
Sjuadal described at p. 64), with fast skyds-stations, leads to the (28 Kil.)
Eampe-Saier, a drive of about 5 hrs. A prolongation of this road is now
in progress, and will be opened as far as the Aakre-Sceter (H'/e Kil.) in
the summer of 1903, and thence to the SikkiUdals-Sceter (ca. 6 Kil.) in
1904. — From the Kampe-SiBter we walk in 7'/2 hrs. to the Sikkilsdals-
SsBter and on in 4'/2hrs., partly by boat, to Gjendesheim.
Vinstra, see p. 64. — The road diverges to the left ('til
Kvikne') from that to the Gudbrandsdal, crosses the railway and
the Laagfcn, and ascends pastFuruheim (p. 64) and through wood.
The way to the Faefor Sanatorium (p. 64) diverges to the left.
After 25 min. the large gaard of Lo lies to our right, while the
deep wooded gorge of the Vinsira yawns to our left. We then
ascend steeply along the ravine. In 25 min. more a path to the
right leads to the Kongsli Sanatorium (p. 64), of which we have a
retrospect farther on. To the left the Gaalna throws itself from
the heights on the Farforkampen, on the opposite slope of the valley.
We pass several gaards.
10 Kil. Vistad, near the church of Kvikne and the large gaard
Jotunheim. GJENDESHEIM. Map,p.l46. — 22.R. 169
of Harilstad, between which our road ascends. After 20 min. the
road enters a ravine to the right and crosses a brook, after which it
ascends to the left for 1 hr. at an unusually severe gradient. The
drivers make a long halt at the top of the incline, at the gaard of
Grmipe. To the right is the lofty Hedalsmuen.
The undulating road crosses the Ommundsaa and the Skaabyggja
(saw-mill) and passes several gaards. Soon after the lake of Olstap-
ptn becomes visible to the left we reach the —
18 Kil. Kampe-Saeter, with a fair inn (R. 80, B. or S. 70 e.),
frequented by summer-visitors. This is (at present) the last fast
skyds-station, where we obtain guides and horses for the rest of
the journey (to the Sikkilsdals-Sc-eter 81/0 kr.); new road, see p. 168.
Passing the sseter of Rovelien, we ascend in '/o hr. to the top of
the ridge, where we have our last view of the Kampe-Saeter. We
then traverse a hilly plateau. The Skalfjeld lies to the left. The
Jotunheim now oomes into sight, with the Valders mountains to
the left and those of Lom (p. 66) to the right. We descend, in part
through wood. After 21/2 hrs. from the Kampe-Sffiter we cross the
Murua by a large wooden causeway, and in 8/4 hr. we cross another
stream of the same name. From this point a decent sseter-path
ascends gently to ( II/2 tr.) the —
Aakre-Sceler (3130" ft. ; modest rfmts.), situated at the W. base
of the Aakrekampen (4630 ft.), some distance from the Aakrevand.
— We continue to ascend, reaching the top in 1 hr. and coming
into view of the Sikkilsdalsvand. In 1 hr. more we reach the —
Sikkilsdals-Sseter, where we obtain fair accommodation and
guides for Gjendesheim (^'/a-S kr., including baggage) at the new
'Prinsestue', so named after the visit of the sons of the Crown Prince
of Sweden in 1901.
From the szeter we take 10 min. to reach the first Sikkilsdals-
vand, where boats are in waiting to take us across (Y2 ^^■)- To the
right towers the abrupt Sikkilsdalshorn, to the left are the Gaapaa-
pigger, while the snow-clad Beshe (p. 170) is visible in the dis-
tance. We walk across the isthmus to the Store Sikkilsdalsvand, and
row across this in ^/^ hr.
The route now ascends, partly over marsh and brooks, to (20 min.)
the top of the next ridge, where we obtain a fine view of the Sjodal,
with the Nautgarstind, the Glittertind, and other Jotunheim moun-
tains beyond it. To the right diverges a path to the Bes-Saeter
(p. 170). The Gjendesheim path skirts the slope to the left, crosses
a broad stream by stepping-stones, and descends to the bridge at
Maurvanyen, which was built by the Turist-Forening and crosses the
foaming rapids of the green Sjoa, the discharge of Lake Gjende. A
walk of 1/2 hr. more along the left bank brings us to our destination.
The comfortable club-hut of Gjendesheim (kept by Kari Rusncps ;
B. or S. 80 0., D. 1 kr. 60 0.), situated at the E. end of Lake Gjende
170 11.22. — Map, p. 146. RESII0. Jotitnheim.
(pp. 106, 1G7), is one of the most frequented points in Jotnnheim
and affords good headquarters for many attractive excursions. Guide,
Sivert Th. Beie.
The ascent of the Besegg (there and hack) takes 7-8 hrs. (guide
3 kr.). A good bridle-path leads to the N. in 1 hr. to the Bessa, on
the N. bank of which lies the Bes-Sceter (see below). The route to
the Veslefjeld follows the S. bank. Guided by varder, we ascend to
the Besvand (4525 ft.), where the huge Beshe becomes conspicuous
Ascending to the left, in lV2"'^t''s. more we reach the summit of
the barren and stony Veslefjeld (5675 ft.). The view embraces the
whole of the dark-green Lake Gjende, with the Koldedalstinder
and Stelsnaastlnder to the S.W., and the enormous Beshc in the
foreground. — We may now follow, towards the W., the narrowing
crest of the Veslefjeld, separating the Besvand from Lake Gjende,
which lies 1200 ft. lower, and terminating in the *Besegg, a curious
ridge or arete, descending precipitously to Lake Gjende.
Travellers with steady liciids may descend to the JSid separating the
two lakes, and not rising much above the Besvand. It is also possilVic to
descend to the Memurnbod by skirting the base of the Besh0 (guide from
Gjendesheim 4 kr.). It is safer, however, to return to the Bes-Seeter, or
to descend direct to Gjendesheim.
The ascent of the *Besh«r (7585 ft. ; 8-9 hrs., there and back;
guidi' 4 kr.) coincides with that of the Veslefjeld as far as the Bes-
vfind; we then row across the lake and ascend by the Beshebrce.
If the boat is not in good condition, we follow the slope on tlie N.
bank as far as the glacier. The view from the summit embraces the
whole of Jotunheim. Far below lie the Memurutunge, the Bes-
vand, Lake Gjende, and the Rusvand. The slope towards the last
is precipitous.
From the Bes-Sceter (see above; Tourist-Hotel Besheim), above
the Upper Sjodalsvand (3255 ft. ), we may proceed either by boat
(2V2 kr.) or on foot along the W. bank to (1 Y2 hr.) the Besstrands-
Sceter, and go thence by a carriage-road, passing the Ntdre Sjodcils-
vand (3240 ft.), traversing a spur of the Besstrands Rundhe
(4910 ft.), and crossing the Russa-ELv, to (IV2 lir.) the —
Ruslien-ScEter (3125 ft.; good quarters), where the rough road
from Sjoa ends (p. 65).
Ascent of the Nadtgarstind fkom the Rdslien-SjEter (3-4 hrs.).
We ascend a cattle-track ('Koraak') to the Hindjly, turn to the left to the
Sendre Tvei'cia, and round the Russe Rundhe (6233 ft.), traversing 'Ur'.
Fine view of the Tjukningssuen (see below). We now come in sight of
the snowless summit of the *Nautgarstind (7615 ft.), to which we have
still a steep ascent of fully 1000 ft. on the N.E. side. On the W. side_ the
Tind ends in a vast 'Botn' or basin, 1000 ft. in depth. Magnificent view.
From the RusLiEN-S.aiTEH to the Memurubod (p. 1C8), 9 hrs., rather
fatiguing. We at first follow the left bank of the Russa-Elv, wade through
the Sendve and Noi-dre Tveraa, and reach the (3 hrs.) Busvasbod, at the E.
end of the Kusvand (4085 ft.). Skirting the lake, we cross several torrents
descending from the N. To the S. are the precipices of the huge Besh0.
At the (3 hrs.) W. end of the lake we ascend the Eusglop, between the Glop-
tind on the E. and TJuktiingssuen (7910 ft.) on the W., and then descend
Jotunhcim. II0GVAGEL. Map, p. 146. —22. R. 171
past the Ilest/Jcern, lying to the right. After billowing the height to the S.
a little farther, we descend abruptly to the Memurubod.
From G.iendesheim to the Gjendebod (p. 166) an interesting route (to
which the difficulty of crossing the Leirungs-Elv is a serious drawback)
leads through the 0vre Leirungsdal, between the Leirungshrw and Knuts-
kiilsHnd, to the Svartdal (p. 165), and thence past the Svartdalsaaxle,
Guide necessary (6 kr.).
From Gjendeshkim to Lake Btgdin (6-8 hrs., not very attractive;
guide 5'/i! kr.). Passing the Leirungsvand, we ascend the course of a brook
to the S. to the Brurskarsknatte, avoiding the extensive marshes of the
Leirungs-Elv. Around the Leirungsdal rise the Kalvaahegda. Knutshuls-
tind (p. 167), KjcrmhuUtind (7655 ft.), and Hegdehroltet. After crossing
the marshy plateau of Valdersjiiien ('l6Cit) ft.), we descend to the Stremvnnd,
cross the Vinstra by a bridge, skirt a spur of the BUihorn, which has been
visible from the Valdersily onwards, and reach the Hotel Jottmheim (p. It 4).
In the reverse direction it is best to row from the Hotel Jotunheim to
the Sund-Swlef at the N.E. end of Lake Bygdin, and to ascend the bank
of the Breilaupa (p. 164) towards the N.E. to Valdersflyen.
1. From the Gjendebod to R^jshjem.
On the first day we walk in 8-10 hrs. to Sjrito-sluleii ; on the second
to liejshjem, either direct (5 hrs.) or via the Galdhefpig (see p. 158). —
The path from the Gjendebod to Spiterstulen is well marked by 'varder';
guide (4 kr.) rot indispensable. Horse as far as the sleep ascent to the
Uladalsband 2 kr. 00 0., saving fatigue.
We ascend the left bank of the Store-Aadal and pass through
the defile of heistulen, between the Memunitunge and the Gjeiide-
tnnge. To the right, the Glaamsdalsfns. Splendid view of the Sem-
nieltind to the N. (p. 172). In 1 hr. we reach the Vardesten, a
large rock; 1/2 hr. beyond it the bridle-path to the Memurutunge
diverges to the right (p. 167). We next observe, to the left of the
Semmeltind, the Hellerfos (see below), and to the left, above it,
the imposing JJladulstinder (7605 ft.; easy ascent, splendid view).
Walkers will find the passage of the Semmelaa, which descends
from the Semmelhul glacier, unpleasant after rain. (The Semmel-
hul is also crossed by a route into the Visdal, no loss unpleasant,
hut much grander.) Our path now ascends rapidly on the E. (right)
side of the wild Hellerfos, the discharge of the Hellertjcern, and
reaches the top of the hill in 1/2 hr. (2 hrs. from the Gjendebod).
Behind us is a superb view of the Sletmarkpig and Svartdalspig.
We traverse a weird wilderness, strewn with glacier-boulders,
skirt the Hellertjcern (4300 ft.) in a N.W. direction, and then turn
to the right into tlie insignificant valley which leads to the N., and
afterwards more to the E., to the Uladalsband. The steeper ascent
soon begins(2i,2hrs. from the Gjendebod), and riders mustdismount.
From the HEi.r.ERTj.aatN to the Leirdai, and K^.ishjem, 3-4 hrs. longer
than our present route, but much less toilsome (guide, not indispensable,
to Ytterdals-Sa;tcr 5 kr. 70 0,; horse to li^jshjem 8-10 kr.). From the
HellertJRrn we follow the main track, reach the Langevand or Langvntn
(4630 ft.), and skirl its >?. bank (IV? hr.). On the right rise the riadals-
tinder; to the S., f^kardalseggen {12ibi\.). At the W. end of the lake we
ascend past the two Jhtgi-agvUjccrne to the H0gvagel ('Vagge', a Lapp
word, signifying 'mountain-valley'; 5430 ft.), the highest point of the route,
172 K.'Jl\ — Map,p.ld6. VISDAL. Jotunheim.
which commands a grand view of the Horunger to (he S.W. The path
then descends to the Leirvand (p. 153).
A steep ascent of V2^^- Tarings "s to the first of the four Southern
Uladal Lakes (about 5180 ft.). This and the second lie to our left,
the third to our right, and the fourth to our left. The route, here
extremely toilsome, keeps to the right helow the slopes of the
Semmeltind (7480 ft. ; easily ascended from the N. side; 'Semmel',
a female reindeer). After another hour it reaches the TJladalsband
(5760 ft."), its highest point, where it joins the route across the
Semmel Glacier. We now descend to the two Northern TJladal Lakes
(5170 ft.). To the right rises the Heilstuguhg (7\)10 ft. ; p. 168).
Following the E. bank of this lake over most trying 'Ur', we at
length reach (2 hrs., or from the Gjendebod 6 hrs.) Vladalsmunden,
the junction of the Uladal with the Visdal (red finger-post).
Splendid view up and down the latter valley. To the left towers
the Kirke. Route to the Leirvand, see p. 153.
The route down the Visdal (to Spiterstulen 1V2-2 hrs. more)
follows the right (E.) bank of the Visa , at first traversing soft
turf, a pleasant contrast to the 'Ur'. To the right towers the Styggehe
(7310 ft.). After 1 hr. we reach the Heilstuguaa, descending from
the HeilstuguhrcE (bridge somewhat liigher up). Shortly before
reaching (1 hr.) Spiterstulen, we observe to the left, through the
Bukkehul, the Sveilnaasbraj and the Styggebrae (p. 158), two glaciers
with magnificent ice-falls, especially the latter.
Spiterstulen (about 3710 ft.), the highest saeter in the Visdal,
commanded by the Skauthe (6675 ft.) on the E., affords plain
quarters for 20 persons and good food at moderate charges in the
house of the guide, Eilev Halvorsen Ofigsbe.
With a guide (generally obtainable at Spiterstulen) we may ascend
the Leirhe (78S5 ft.), the HeihtiKjvhe (see above), and one of the Meniuru-
tinder (7965 ft.).
Instead of taking the direct route to E/sjshjem, it is much preferable
to ascend the Galdhjapig (p. 158) from Spiterstulen (4'/2 hrs. ; guide 4 kr.
for 1 pers., each addit. pers. IV2 kr.). The route, so long as it remains on
the rocks, is good, and even on the glaciers offers few difficulties to
Alpine climbers. It crosses the Visa by a bridge '/z hr. to the S. of
Spiterstulen (guide-post indicating the way to the Juvvashytte, see below),
ascends on the N. side of the Sveilnaasbrce, and traverses the three peaks
of the Sveilnaasi. Splendid retrospects of the Visdal mountains.
From Spiterstulen to Rejshjem about 5 hrs. more (guide not
indispensable). We soon reach the linfiit of birches (about
3600 ft.) and (1/2 hr.) a rocky barrier through which the Visa has
forced a passage. In another '/2 ^^- '^^ come to a wood, with
picturesque firs ('Furuer'), most of them quite bare on the N. side.
(The limit of firs is here about 3280 ft. above the sea- level.)
Above us, to the left, is an offshoot of the Styggebrae. We cross
(1/4 hr.) the Skauta-Elv, which forms a waterfall above, by a
curious bridge. To the S. we perceive the Uladalstinder (p. 171)
and the Stygghehe (see above). Farther on is a guide-post pointing
Jotunheim. MELKEDAL. Mnp,p.l46. - 2'2.R. 173
to Glitierhebn in the Glitradal (E.) and to the Juvvashytte (W. ;
p. 167).
The tourist-hut of Qlitlerheim, opened In 1902 and kept by the guide
Kniid Slorstensnisien, is the starting-point lor the ascent of the Glittertind
(83J>5 ft.; 8-10 hrs., there and back; guide and ice-axe necessary).
We cross the Glitra, opposite the mouth of which we see the
Nedre Sulheims-Scrter (3190 ft.), ou the left bank of the Visa. The
Rejshjem route continues to follow the E. bank of the Visa. We
cross the Grjola, the Smiugjela, and the Gokra. The Visa is lost
to view in its deep channel, but we follow the margin of its ravine.
A path ascending to the right for a few hundred paces leads to
the finely situated Visdals-Satre (_2960 ft.; quarters for the night
obtainable, best at the 0vreb0-S(eter).
The Gokraskard, a fine point of view, may be ascended hence: it
conunands the Uladalstinder to the S., the Galdh0pig to the S.W., and
the Hestbrffipigge to the W. — A still finer point is the Lauvha (6710 ft.),
whence the Glittertind is also visible.
From the Visdals-Stetre we may also ascend the Ookkerdal, between
the Lauvh0 on the N. and the Gokkeraxel on the S., to the pass oi Finhals
(3885 ft.). Following the PinshaU-Elv thence and crossing the Smaadals-
Elv in the Smaadal, we may turn to the right to the Smaadals - Sxtar
(3905 ft.), from which the huge Kvitinyskjelm (6975 ft.) to the K. may
be ascended, and next reach the Siiierlid-Scefei' and the Ifaaver-Sceter on
Lake Thesseii. Thence across the lake and past the Oxefos to Storvik
(p. G6; 1-11/2 day).
Below the Visdal Steters begins the magnificent descent to
Rejshjem, skirting the profound Ravine of the Visa. The Lauva
descends from the right. The sseter-path, which has now become
a road, descends very rapidly, and in about 1 1/2 lir. reaches the
first houses, where we cross the curious bridge to the left.
Reijshjem, see p. 157.
m. From Tyinsholmen or Eidsbugaren through the Melkedal
and over the Eeiser to Turtegrjff.
This is a magnificent but fatiguing route of two days (way marked by
'varder'; guide not indispensable for adepts). 1st Day: To Skogadalsbeeti
10 hrs. (guide 6 kr.). 2nd Day: To Tuitejre 61/2 hr.s.' — As the guides of
Kidsbugaren, Vetti, etc., are seldom well acnuaintcd with the Horuiujer,
the traveller who intends to explore these mountains should dismiss his
guide at the Ilelgedals-Sajter.
To the mouth of the turbid Melkedeld, and across that river, see
p. 165. — Quitting the lake, we gradually ascend the *Melkedal.
After 3^4 hr. the valley divides. The branch to the left ascends to
the Langeskavl and the Uranaastind (p. 163); that to the right is
still called the Melkedal. Steep ascent through the latter, passing
several waterfalls. As is so often the case in Norway, the valley
has no level floor, but consists of a chaos of heights and hollows.
The rocks are polished smooth by glacier-friction or covered with
loose boulders. Vegetation ceases entirely. About 20 min. above
the bifurcation of the valley we ascend a steep snow-slope to the
plateau of MeUcehuUerne, with several ponds.
174 R.'22. — Map,p.l46. SKOGADAL. Jotunheim.
In 20 mill, more (about 1 V2 lir. from Eidsbugaven) we reach tlie
**Store Melkedalsvand (4382 ft.), in a strikingly grand situation,
the finest point on the route, and worthy of a visit for its own sake
from Tyinsholuieu or Eidsbugaren (best time in the forenoon,
5-6 hrs. there and back). Even in July miniature icebergs (of
'aarsgammel Is', year-old ice, i.e. winter-ice) are seen floating In
the lake (fresh ice being called 'natgammel Is', night-ice). To the
W. rises the Langeskavl ; then the Urauaastind; on this side of
the latter is the Hadberg; next, the Melkedalsbr;e, descending to
the N.W. end of the lake, and the Melkedalstinder, all reflected
in the dark-blue water.
A walk of another liour over 'Ur' and snow brings us to an
ice-pond at the foot of the First Melkedalstind, whence we ascend
a steep slope of snow in 20 min. more to the Melkedalsband , the
watershed ('Vandskjelet'). Farther on appears the Second Melke-
dalslind (7110 ft. ; ascended either from the Rauddal or the Melke-
dal), and to the N.W. the Rauddalstiud (p. 167). The route skirts
the three Melkedalstjerne, through which flows the Skogadela. The
stream has to be forded between the second and third. Rough
walking. A view of the Horunger is now disclosed (p. 155). The
strlation of the rocks by glacier-action ('Skurings-Striber')is fre-
quently seen. The torrent is again crossed by a snow-bridge (cau-
tion necessary), or we may wade through it knee-deep a little lower
down. The Melkedal now ends in a barrier of rock ('Bjelte', girdle),
over which the river falls about 590 ft. To this point also descends
from the left the W. arm of the Melkedalsbrjc, by which the
descent from the Urauaastind may be made (see above).
The lower region of the valley which we now enter is the
Skogadal, abroad basin. Above it tower the Skagastelstinder and
the Styggedalstind. The Maradalsbrce descending from the Skaga-
stelstinder is very striking. The Skogadal is at first a little
monotonous, but the vegetation improves, and the scanty 'llab'
or scrub is soon replaced by fine birches (whence the name, 'forest
valley'). A walk of 2 hrs. from the 'Bslte', without defined path,
brings us to the tourist-hut of —
Skogadalsb^en (see p. 152), reached from Eidsbugaren in
about 10 hrs.
About 1/2 lir. beyond Skogadalsbeen the Gravdal route leads to
the right (p. 152). We turn to the left and cross the Utki by a bridge
(2788 ft.). Beyond it the path to the right leads to the ('/a lir-)
Guridals-Sajtre , while we follow the good saeter-track to the W.,
on the N. bank of the Ojertvas-Elv or Slyggedals-Elv , which
descends from the Gjertvasbrae and the Keiser. On the S. bank
is the deserted saeter of Gjerlvasbeen, whence a path leads to (1 hr.)
the Vormelid-Saeter (p. 151). The retrospect becomes grander and
more open as we advance: to the left is the Smmstabbrae; at the
end of the Store Utladal is the Kirke ; more to the right are the
Jotunheim. KEISEREN PASS. M<ip,p.ld6. —22.R. 175
Rauddalstincler; in front of us is the Skogadalsnaasi ; farther to
the right are the Melkedalstind, the Uranaastind, and, to the ex-
treme right, the Falketind. After ■V4 ^^- t^^ stream forms a small
waterfall. To the left, at the base of the E. Styggedalstind, now
usually called the Gjertvastind (71 10 ft.\ extends the large Gjert-
vasbrct, opposite which we pass ^!2~^li ^^- later.
A granil route, only about 1 hr. longer, taken for the first time by
Jlr. AVm. C. Slingsby in 1876, and not difficult for good walkers, leads
past the N. side of the Gjerti-ashra; to a low pass, and descends to the
Styi/gedaUhrw and thence to the Helgedals-Sjeter (see below). — Ascent of
the Ojertvaslind, see p. 152.
The path, now good, next leads to the (20 min.) Gjertvand, passes
to the left of this lake, and ascends steeply, over debris and snow,
to the 'Skar', and then, between the Styggedalsnaasi on the left and
the Uvasnaasi on the right, to the (8/4 hr.) Keiseren Pass (4920 ft.;
Lapp 'Kaisa', mountain), on which lie the Ilvcmd and the snows of
the Storfond. To the S.E., above the snow of the Styggedalstind,
rises the Koldedalstind , to the N. the Fanaraak, to the W. the
huge Jostedalsbrffi rising above the mountains on the Lysterfjord.
The path now leads along the top of the hill, passing the pond
oi Skauta. The Horiinger, especially the mountains round the
Styggedalsbotn , become conspicuous to the left. After ^j^ hr.
we cross the Helgedals-ELv , which flows towards the W., some-
times scarcely fordable, and in 1/4 ^r. more reach a bare rocky
height commanding the *Styggedalshotn (p. 16")), a huge basin of
snow and ice. After 1/2 hr. we see in the 'Botii' to the left the
outflow of the Styggedal Glacier, and to the right the Steindals-ELv
coming from the Fanaraak. In front of ns, about 660 ft. below, ex-
tends the broad Helgedal, to which the path now rapidly descends.
In 20 min. we pass, on the left, the fine Skautefos, formed by
the contluenoe of the Helgedals-Elv and the Styggedals-Elv. The
path then crosses the Ste'mdals-Elv, usnally not difficult, and leads
through the wide valley, past the Helgednls-Sater, to —
Turleyre (p. 155), 61 2 ^'''s- from Skogadalsbcen.
23. From Bergen to Aalesund and Molde by Sea.
42 S.M. (16S Kngl. M.) to AaUiund, 51 S.M. (204 Engl. M.) to Molde.
These are the distances as officially reckoned, l)Ut they are greatly increased
by the sinuosities of the bays and straits through which the steamers
thread their course. The distances given in this route in Norwegian
nautical or sea-miles are those from station to station.
Steamers ply almost dailv to Aalesund in 15-18 hrs. (fares 16 kr. 80,
10 kr. .00 0.), to Molde in 19-22 hrs. (fares 20 kr. 40, 12 kr. 75 0.). Some
of Ihe steamers touch at.4a/esM«donly, going thence direct to Christianssund
and Trondhjem; others caM a,t Aalesund and aUo At Molde; others again at
Floi-g, Molde, Aalesund, and Molde; and only a few touch at the minor
intermediate stations.
Bergen, see p. 115. To the mouth of the Sognefjord, see p. 131.
The PoUetind (1740 ft. ) here rises on the island of Indrc Sulen.
176 R. 23. — Map, p. 178. FLORjRf. From Bergen
To the N. of the Sognefjord the steamer skirts the district of
Sendfjord, which with that of Nordfjord (p. 182) formed the an-
cient Firdafylke. The steamer steers between the islands of Ytre
and Indre Sulen. The scenery increases in interest, and the moun-
tain-forms show more variety. Farther on we pass the Dalsfjord
(p. 178). To the W. lie the Vare and the lofty island of Alden
(1550 ft.), known as the ^Norske Hest\ which pastures upwards of
1000 sheep. The vessel next usually passes to the W. of the high
Atlee (2283 ft.), and steers across the Stang fjord, passing the
promontory of Stavnces and the Stavfjord, the entrance to the F«rr-
defjord (p. 179). The lighthouse of Stnbhensfyr stands on a solitary
cliff to the W.
20 S.M. Flor0 (Olsens Hotel; Lloyd's agent, Mr. E. Olsen) is
a station of some importance, being touched at by most of the
steamers. The little town (GBOinhab.) is the commercial centre of
the Norddals, Eike, and Hedals fjords.
A local steamer usually plies once weekly from Flor0 up the small
Eikefjofd to the station of that name, whence we may ascend towards
the N. to the great glacier-region of the Kjeipen (4460 ft.-, recently ex-
plored by Mr. Wm. C. Slingsby), the snowy heights of which are visible
from the fjord.
The steamer plying from Bergen to the Nordfjord (p. 182) also steers
from Flor0 to Mold0 by a route similar to that described below, but calls
at more stations. It makes connection with steamers plying on the Oulen-
fjord, whicli opens to the S.E. of Bremanger. From Kjel&enws, on this
fjord, wc may row to Rise (quarters) and walk thence by a wild path to
the N.W. of the Kjeipen (see above) to the Aalfotfjord (p. 183).
We steer to the N. To the left lie the islands of Skorpe and
Aralden; then the Fr0i-0, on which lies Kalvaag or Kallevaag, a
station of the Nordfjord steamers (p. 182). "With the passage of
the Freipord, as the strait between the mainland and the large
island of Bremanger is called, begins one of the finest parts of the
voyage. On Bremanger is Berdle or Berle, another station of the
Nordfjord steamers. To the right some relief in the grey moss-
grown rocks is afforded by a few high but slender waterfalls. To the
left, at the N.E. angle of Bremanger, towers the huge Hornelen
(2940 ft.), with its almost sheer cliff, ascended on the seaward side
by K. Bing in 1897. This is the Smalsorhorn of the Saga, said to
have been visited by King Olaf Tryggvason about the year 1000.
The Skatestrem, a strait to the N. of Hornelen, between Bremanger
and the Rugsunde, is noted for the rapidity of the tide ebbing and
flowing through it. The steamer crosses the mouth of the Nordfjord,
affording a fine mountain-view, and (3hrs. from Flore) reaches —
7 S.M. Mold« (Inn of H. Friis), a small island between the
mainland and the Vaagse, the latter with hills attaining a height
of 2300 ft. ScEternaa (Sunde's Inn), on this island, is called at by
the local steamers.
We next steer to the N. through the Vlvesund, a strait between
the Vaags0 and the mainland, and then across the bay of Sildegabet
to Mol'le. AAHJliM. 'J3. Route. 177
(■herring's iiiotitli' ) and past the islands ol Biiniw and Seljee.
(Ill the latter are the ruins of a Benedictine monastery and of
the shrine of the Irish St. Sunniva, the tutelary saint of Bergen.
In former days sailing vessels had often to lie here for several weeks,
awaiting a favourable wind for the circumnavigation of Stadtland.
The peninsula of Stadtland, round which we next steer, is a
hilly plateau 28 Kil. long and 4-13 Kil. broad, stretching far into
the sea like the back of a huge right hand with a long wrist. The
highest point is the Skraati^a, rising above Dnjgc, at the end of the
'wrist'. More conspicuous, however, is the Kjarrlng (1683 ft.),
near the tip of the middle finger. The N. promontory is called
Staalet. On the N.E. side rises the iJei/'Ai/iorn ( 1410 ft.). Stadt-
land is noted for the storms to which it is exposed. Even in
summer the sea here is often very rough.
On the Stadtland, opposite theSeljea, near the church and parsonage
of Hove, lies Selje, a station of the Bergen and Xordfjord steamer, whence
we may row up the little Moldefjord in I hr. to the gaard Eide. A
rather steep bridle-path leads thence in 3/) hr. (pay for 7 Kil.) over the
Mandteid (about 500 ft.) to E/ierliowjen on the Kjadepolkn. Then by boat
in 1 hr. t.) (4 Kil.) — '
Aahjem (good quarters at Ravn's, the Landhandler), situated near (he
church and parsonage of Vanelven, at the S.W. end of the Vanelvs/Jord.
Steamboat to Aalesund, by Volden, once weekly (p. 204). Carriage-road
to Brygsen on the Xordfjord, see p. 183.
The bay to the N.E. of Stadtland is called Vanelvsgahel, ad-
joining which on the S.E. is the Yanelvsfjord (see above). The
steamer passes the Sanda , in which is the Dolsten?hul , a cavern
about 200 ft. above the sea-level, and the large islands Gurske
and Hareidlund, and sometimes calls at Hereen, to the N. of the
Gurske, at Volden (p. 203), and at 0rsteni-ik (p. 203). To the right
lies the large island of Sule. To the X. appears the Gode, with a
lighthouse; then (r.) the island of Hessen, with the pointed
Sukkertrp; and farther to the N. the Valdere, with a lighthouse,
where there is a cave (Sjong-Hull), 120 ft. high, on the S.W. side.
Pa-sing the Sterwaag. the bare rocks of which are used for drying
fish ('Klipfisk', p. 245). we reach, in about 5 hrs. from Molde. —
15 S.M. Aalesund, see p. 202.
The voyage from .\alisund to Molde (saloon-fare 3 kr. 90 0.) is
very fine, especially by evening-light. Beyond Aalesund wc liave
a grand* View of the Sand mere mountains (pp. 197-200) to the right,
the fissured Jenshorn and the snow-fields of the Kolaastinder long
remaining in sight. Farther on we pass the Lepse, with the lien-
stadhul, on the left. To the right is the lighthouse of Gunaviken.
A view of the Skaala (p. 187) and other mountains to the N. of the
Romsdal is now disclosed. Finally we enjoy a panorama of the whole
Romsdalsfjord. From Aalesund to Molde the large steamers take
SVz"^ hrs., the local steamers (with their many stops) much longer.
9 S.M. Molde, see p. 204. — Thence to Christianssund and
Trondhjem. see p. 214.
Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. Sth Edit. 1'2
178
24. From the Sognefjord to the Nordfjord.
FiioM Vadheim to Sandene, 123 Kil., a two days' journey by 'skytla'.
Caleschvogn with two horses for 2 pers. 61 kr. 50 0., for 3 I'cre. 67 kr.
40 0., for 4 pers. 73 kr. SO 0.; from Vadheim to Nedre Vastjnden 32 kr.,
35 kr. 20, 38 kr. 40 0. ; from Nedre Vasenden to Skei 9 kr. 50, 10 kr. 50,
11 kr. 50 0. (also steamboat, see p. 180); from Skei to Sandene 20, 22. 24 kr.
The traffic on this route (the 'Overlandsvei') is very great, as the huge
■lostedalsbrse (p. 130) prevents any other road between the Sognefjord and
the Nordfjord. The fir.st portion of the route is the least attractive, so
that many travellers use the S^ndfjord steamer from Bergen to Ferde,
while some prefer to drive the whole way to the Nordfjord.
The attentiiiu of walkers and riders may, however, be directed to the
route from SUjolden over the Sognefjeld to Rejshjem (pp. 153, 157) and
thence via Grotlid to Stryn (R. 9). The passage from the Jostedal to the val-
leys of the Nordtjord is attended by many inconveniences.
Vadheim (by steamer from Bergen in 7-10 hrs., from Laerdals-
eren in 91/2-IO hrs., from Balholm in 3-4 hrs.j, see p. 132. Con-
veyances usually await the arrival of the steamer.
The undulating road grailually ascends the Vadheimsdal, the
westernmost of the two valleys which open here, enclosed by rocks
1500-2000 ft. in height. The first gaard is Ytre Dale, on the left,
where in winter the sun is visible for a very short time only. The
road crosses the river and ascends between the Dregebenip on the
left and the Fagersletnip (2995 ft.) on the right. On a rocky height
to the left lie the gaards of Dregebe, beyond which the road recrosses
the river. It then skirts the Lower Yxlandsvand, and again crosses
the river before reaching the dark Upper Yxlandsvand (430 ft.). New
road in progress. The watershed is crossed near the gaards of Aare-
berge (535 ft.), lying in a basin to the right, on a small lake. To
the N. rises the imposing Kvamshest (p. 179). Passing the gaard
of Lofald on the right, we cross the Quia or Holmedals-Elv , and
reach —
loKil, S&nde (*Sivertsen's Hotel, R. U/i-2, B. orS. IV2, D. 2V4,
pens. 5 kr. ; landlord speaks English), prettily situated in the Indre
Holmedal, with a church and several gaards. To the S. rise the
Hegehei (2850 ft.), and (more distant) Dregebenip, to the W. the
StenscBtfjeld (2470 ft.), and to the N.W. the lofty Kvandalsfjeld
(3325 ft.).
From Sande a good road leads tn the W., down the left bank of the
Holmedals-Elv, to (14 Kil.) the slow station of Eidevik, near the church
of Begstad and the gaard of Sveen (good quarters) on the Salsfjord, at
which a steamer calls twice weekly (121/2-13 hrs. from Bergen). The finest
point on the Dalsfjord is Dale, on the S. bank, where the Dalthest (2333ft.),
the dome-shaped Kringlen (2435 ft.), and other mountains present a grand
picture. — From Sveen to Langeland (p. 179), 11 Kil,
From Sande a road leads to the E., up the valley of the Holmedals-Elv,
to (7 Kil.) the slow station of Horsevik on the pretty Viksvand (525 ft.),
which is worthy of a visit. On an island near the N. bank is the church
of Hcestad. From Horsevik to Vik, at the N.E. end of the lake, 14 Kil.
(by boat). Near Vik we pass the mouth of the Eldal (p. 134) on the
right. — From Vik a road leads through the Haukedal to (7 Kil.) Mostad-
haug on the Haukedalsvand, whence we row to B^rvik (p. 18'J).
t ireo^ayjL An*T ■
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Srimdalen,' nykprne
ro..eT. Latsonpm - „
i?uiuUiaU„ ^ Stort W
' .J=i..f/.^- ^aO^caeS . ,°
"^-■-.'i VJSeOerA- i Osen° TatUate
I B R 0 ,,/^t' 'Mdal s^. ,SW?7-rfaZ
?e4^.
Sal^hut aelde y Stranisruis ^ Ziotel
L \» u - "'^ rteTWoli'is Boo
sdal
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OstFj.
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roA
tank /^ . \-i
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:f^
« — ? Ihigl Mllefi
r0UDE. '24. Route. 179
The traveller should secure a vehicle at Sandc to take him to F£(rdo,
as he might otherwise be kept waiting a long time at Langeland.
Beyond Sande the road lias recently been much improved. It
ascends rapidly to the right to the gaard of Tunvald at the base
of the Tunvaldfjeld. Fine retrospect. A view is soon disclosed of
the mountains of the Dalsfjord (in Scndfjord) ; in the distance, the
Lekelandshest (2625 ft.) ; nearer, the Kvamshest or Store Hest
(4005 ft.), which, farther on, resembles a huge horse's head ; and
the wooded basin of Lundebygden at our feet. We next reach the
gaards of Skilbred, on the peaty Skilbredsvand, whence we have an
unimpeded view of the Kvamshest and the Lille Hest [2985 ft.) to
the N.E, of it, with snow between. In clear weather these mountains
are reflected in the lake. We then pass several pleasant gaards.
11 Kil. (pay for 14 in this direction) Langeland (unpretending
accommodation) lies high above the S. end of the Langelandsvand
(21/2 Kil- long), where the road to Sveen (p. 178) and the old road
to Ferde (on the hilly W. bank) diverge to the left. The new road
to Farde follows the E. bank of the lake and descends in windings
into the valley of Ferde and to the Fardetjord. Walkers may avoid
the windings by short-cuts, but should take care not to wander too
far from the road. To the left rises the Solheimsheia (1265 ft.); to
the right we have a fine view of the Halbrandsfos.
On arriving in the valley, our route joins a road which leads to
the left to the steamer-pier on the Ferdefjord, of which the upper
bay only is visible. We turn to the right and ascend the course of
the broad Jelstra to (about 1 Kil.) —
11 Kil. (pay in the opposite direction for 14) TtrrAe. By the
roadside stands *Hafstad's Hotel (R. I1/4-IV2, ^- 2V4 kr.). On the
right bank of the river, which is crossed by a long bridge, is
^Sivertsens Hotel (11. 1 1/4-2, B. or S. 1 V2, D- 2V4, pens. 5 kr. ; land-
lord speaks English). Near it, on the left, is the tolegraph-offlce,
and, on a moraine-hill to the right, the church. The broad and
smiling valley is enclosed by high hills: on the N. the Ferdenlp
(2825 ft.), on the E. the Viefjeld (sie below), and on the S.W. the
Solheimsheia (see above). Ferde is the capital of the district of
Sendfjord. The horses bred here and on other parts of the Nord-
fjord arc said to belong to the original Norwegian 'fjord race'.
»»n the Fardefjord, into which the Jglstra falls about !'/•.> Kil. below the
villase, a steamer plies twice weekly; to Nansldril on the N. bank in
l-l'/2hr., to Yhn-0 (p. 116) in 5 hrs.
To the N.E. (left) opens the Angedal, with the Sandfjeld
(4100 ft.) and the Kupepclde (4190 ft.) rising in the background.
Tim Nonlfjord road, which we follow, ascends tlie well-cultivatod
valley of the J-olstra on its left bank and passes numerous gaards.
Fine view of the broad Brelandsfos. On the opposite bank rises the
Viefjeld (2210 ft.). About 6 Kil. from Ferde the long Farsunde-Bro
carries tis across the lower end of the Movatten (76 ft.), a small lake
through which the Jalstra flows. The road then skirts the N. bank
12 ■*
180 R.24.— Map,p.i;K). JOLSTEUVAND. From theSoynefjord
oi' this lake, at the foot of the Viofjcld. On the 8. baiik lie several
gaards. At the head of the lake, on the right, is the agricultural
school ('Landbrugsskole') of Mo, beyond which is seen the fine
Huldrtfos. Beautiful pine-wood. About 5 Kil. from the Farsunde-
Bro a road diverges to the right to Holsen.
The road to Holsen (no skyds) crosses the .Telstra and leads a little
to the N. of the Aasenvand and along the N. bank of the Holsenvand
(410 ft.)- To the church oi Holsen about 9 Kil. — Tlie road goes on, over
the Rervikfjeld and past the Rervik Smtre, to the gaard of liervik on the
Haukedalsvand (863 ft.), at the N.E. end of which, about 1.5 Kil. fr<ini
Holsen, is the church of Ifatikedal. The road ends at the gaard of Grierning
(1090 ft.; quarters), 4-5 Kil. farther up the valley. Thence to Balholni
on the Sognefjord, see p. 134. — A grand but rough route, fording several
brooks, ascends the Grendril, with a view of the Grovebrw on the left
and the Jostedalsbrm on the right, to the Seknesandsskar, and descends to
Sffknesand (see below).
Beautiful scenery. The green wooded valley is backed by fjelds
to the E. and N.E. The rapid stream affords trout-flshiiig.
19 Kil. Nedre Vasenden [Nielsen's Hotel, good and moderate),
lies at the W. end of the Jelstervand, out of which the Jelslra flows
in a series of rapids (seen from the bridge close to the station).
The pretty *J«rlstervand (670 ft.), 23 Kil. long from S.W.
to N.E., is traversed several times daily by a small steamer (2 hrs.,
fare 2 kr.). Both banks are studded with gaards, most of them on
the 'Solside', or N. side. The lake contains excellent trout. The
road on the N. bank skirts the base of the Jygrnfjeld, passes the
gaards of Sviddal at the mouth of the little Bergsdal, and leads
through the fertile Aalhusbygd, with the church of Aalhiis or Jelster.
On the S. side of the lake rise the Sanddalsfjeld, the Klana, the
Orken, and the Sndelegy. Above these peep at intervals the Grove-
bra and the Jostedalsbrae. By the gaards of MykUbostad are several
pretty waterfalls.
To the left, at the E. base of the Bjersatfjeld (3'j14 ft.), which
the road skirts, lies the skyds-station of Aardal or Ordal. Farther
on is the church of Helgheim.
On the right opens a bay called the Kjesmesfjord (10 Kil.
long), backed by the blue-green Glacier of Lunde, To the N. of
the Kjasiiffisfjord rises the Bjerga (5510 ft.), and to the S. the
Seknesandsnipa (4965 ft.).
At the E. end of the Ki«»3npf.sfjord lie the gaards oi Seknesand and Lunde
(poor quarters at both), whence, with a guide, we may cross to the Gr0ndal
to the S. and go on to SvK'ren(p. 134), or we may cross the Jostedalsbraj to the
S.E. to Fjcerland (p. 134). The latter forms an attractive and (for adepts)
not over-difficult passage to the middle Sognefjord (comp. p. 131; to the
Lundeskar 21/2, to the glacier 1, across it I'/z, to the Bjzrjum-Sseter 2'/4) to
Fjserland 2 hrs.).
At the head of the Jelstervand (22 Kil. from Nedre Vasenden)
lies —
Skei (*Hotel Skei, owned by Tollef Skrede, R. 1-1 V2, B- or S.
11/2, D. 2'/4, pens. 5 kr.; Engl. Ch. Serv. in July & Aug.). Skei is
not a skyds-station, but conveyances are always to be had.
to the NmilfjOTfl. VA ATRDAL. Maps. pp. 130, Ifii. — '24. /?. 1^1
Just beyond Skei the road crosses a hill, the watershed hetween
the Jelstervaiul and the I'redhelinsvaiid , and passes the small
Feglevnnd and SIcredevand. On the right is the Fosheimsfos, de-
scending from the Bjerga. The road to the Bredheimsvand (see
below), diverging to the left at the S. end of the Bolsatvand, has
lost its importance, as boats are no longer provided for crossing
this lake. Our road as'^ends along the E. bank of the small Bol-
sjetvand and crosses a hill to the Stardal., at the head of which
appears the huge Jostedalsbric.
Beyond KUigegy (741 ft. ; 5 Kil. from Skei) the road divides, the
left branch leading to Egge, the right to Aamot in the Stardal.
The latter road ascends past the gaai-ds of Grehstad and Btfring to
(aliiiut 10 Kil.) Aamot (toleraMe quarters at Tolleif Aamol^s; guides always
on hand), the starting -pdint of several grand passes across the Joste-
oalsbka: (guides, Ole 'J'oUei/sen Aamot, EUing Aamot, fedcr Navnles; rope
necessary): —(I) dyer the "Oldenskar (0133ft.) to the Oldenvand (p. 186),
7-8 hrs. (21/2 to the foot of the Aamot Glacier, 2'/-2 over unpleasant 'Ur'
to the highest point, and a very steep and fatiguinj; descent of 2V2 more,
with line views, to ilalkevold and Rusteen, p. 1&6). This interesting ex-
cuisiiin, which is often made by ladies, is not difficult in good weather. —
(2) Across the Jostedalsbrfp to the AiislerdalsJ>ra\ and then down to Nordre
Nas (10-12 hrs.), conip. p. 142.
The road to Egge turns to the left into the narrow Vaatedal,
flanked with high mountains, and descends along the Vaatedals-
Elv. On the right rises the Hcfyheiinsfjeld, on the left the Svtn-
skenipa (4770 ft.). The road then crosses to the right bank. The
valley expands. On the right towers the conicalZ!,'(/</''ni?)&(((r)'ir)Oft.),
whi<',h may bo ascended from l^gge ((i-7 lirs. ; bridle-path to the
Egge-S;eter, lialfway).
14 Kil. Egge i Vaatedalen (558 It.; *ll<del lujye, 11. 2, 1'-. or
S. 1, D.'ikr.).
Farther on the road skirts the E. side of the Ikrgemsvund
(470 ft.). On tlic left rises tlie Raadfjelil, on tlie right the Vora.
Beyond the gaards of Uerghtiin or Bergem the road crosses a brook
issuing from the Sanddalsvand on the right and divides. The right
branch (very rough) ascends to Moldestad and Utviken (p. IH'2),
while the "ood new road to the left leads to —
\'l kil. Red or lie[Ilolcllrordon, well spoken of; Hotel Viclorld,
opposite) picturesquely situated on tlie E. bank of the Bredheims-
vand, lirehnsvand, or Breuinsuand (185 ft.; 896 ft. deep), a grand
and sombre Alpine lake, about IG Kil. long, enclosed by imposing
mountains. Hard by is the church of Bredheim. On the left rises
the Slcjorla ('shirt"; 5780 ft.).
The*Jioad, formed by blasting the rocks on tht; N. Lank of the
Bredheimsvand, rivals in its grandeur the Axenstrasse in Switzer-
land. At places it is carried over huge embankments. To the left
rises the Rysva.ih'irn. Beyond Vasenden the stream issuing from
the lake forms the Kidsfos. The road ascends gently, partly tlir(uif;li
wood, and then sinks asfain to —
182 Route 25. NORDFJORD.
14 Kil. Sandene, on the Oloppenfjord (p. 184), a station of
the Nordfjord steamers and of a local boat (see below).
The rough road diverging to the right from the Red road beyond
Bergheim leads to ( 7 Kil. from Egge) Moldestad, whence a road
leads to the E. to Fosheim and Myklebostad. Beautiful retrospect
of the Eggenibba.
To Fos/ieim 5 Kil., and thence past the Sanddalsvand to Myklebostad
nearly 4 Kil. more. From Fosheim a fine glacier-pass leads past the Store
Cecilieiilirona to Olden (p. 185). From Myklebostad wc may ascend the
Snenipa (6063 ft.).
The road to Utviken now crosses a high hill which separates
the Bredheimsvand from the Invikfjord, and first ascends and then
descends so steeply that walking is practically imperative (from
Moldestad to Utviken 31/2-4 hrs.). The road ascends between the
Skavlevagye on the right and the Fallefjeld on the left. As we
ascend, a view to the right is gradually disclosed of the vast snow-
expanses of the Gjetenyk (5S23 ft.). At the top of the ascent we
reach a plateau of moor (^2074 ft.), where the road undulates con-
siderably, passing numerous bogsy ponds and erratic boulders.
To the S.W. we have a retrospect of the Skarstenfjeld (p. 184),
with its sharply defined outline. On the N. margin of the plateau
we at last come in sight of the Invikfjord far below, commanded
on the N. by the Laudalstinder, the Storhorn with its large glacier,
and the Hornindalsrokken. The descent is rapid at first and after-
wards in gradual windings, which tlie walker may avoid by easily-
followed short-cuts. The Stor-Etv, which descends in numerous
falls on the right, turns several mills at Utviken.
20 Kil. (from Egge ; pay for 26) Utviken, a station of the Nord-
fiord steamer and of a local boat (see p. 184).
25. The Nordfjord,
Steameks (not all with separate staterooms) from Bergen to Fahide
thrice a week in 2i-36 hrs. (fare 14 kr. 80 0.); thence to Visnws ^j-i hr.
more (15 kr. 30 0.): to Loen 1 hr. beyond Visnses (15 kr. CO 0.); and to
Olden 1 hr. more (15 kr. GO 0.). In the height of summer a local steamer
also plies on Mon., Tues., Wed., Thurs., & Sat. from Sandene (Gloppen)
to Utviken, Faleide, Slryn, Olden, and Loe?i, and on Mon., Tues., Wed.,
Thurs., Frid., & Sat. from Falekle to Visnces, Olden, and Loen.
The long sea- voyage from Bergen to the Nordfjord can hardly be re-
commended. Most travellers will probably steam from Sandene (pp. 182, 1^4)
direct to Vis7ia;s, Loen, or Olden (p. 185j; make excursiims in the Loendal
or the Oldendal; and continue their journey through the Strynsdal and
Videdal (R. 26).
The *Nordfjord, running parallel with the Sognefjord, one de-
gree of latitude farther to the N. , but scarcely half the length (50 M.),
extends inland to the N.W. slope of the Jostedalsbrce {-p. 130). In this
case also the finest scenery is to be found in the inmost recesses of the
fjord, here of unusual grandeur and plcturesqueness. No grander
NORDFJORDEID. 25. Route. 183
combination exists of wide expanses of water with mighty moun-
tains and extensive glaciers. Nowhere are the peculiar charms of
Norwegian scenery, as contrasted with the finest Alpine panoramas,
more adequately illustrated. Different parts of the fjord have
different names. The name 'Nordfjord' formerly applied to the N.
part of the Nordre Bergenhus Amt, but is now generally given
to the tjord also.
Steamer from Bergen to Molde (13-15 hrs.), see pp. 175, 177.
The steamer then retraces its course and steers to the E. between
Vemelsvik and Gangse into the Nordfjord. The first station is Ruy-
sund, on the S. side, opposite the Rugsunde.
From the next station Bryggen, on the N. bank, a road leads
over the Maurstadeid (2080 ft.) to Aahjem on the Vanelvsfjord
(20 Kil.; p. 177). — We next call at Haugs or Haus in the Daviks-
fjord, also on the N. bank; at Davik, in a pretty bay of the S. bank,
once the residence of the poet Claus Frimann (d. 1829); and at
Domsten or Dombesten. Splendid view to the S. of tlie Aalfothrce.
The fjord now forks into the Isfjord to the S.E. (see below) and
the Eidsfjord to the E., where the steamer touches at Starheim,
Naustdal or Nestdal, and (51/2 lirs. from Molde) —
Nordfjordeid, a large place with a ch\irch, post-office, and bank.
About 1 M. from the pier is Boalths Enke's Hotel (comfortable),
often wholly occupied by English salmon-fishers. — From Nord-
fjordeid a road ascends the valley to Nor or Nord (7 Kil.), on the
Hornindalsvand, the geological continuation of the Eidsfjord, and
184 ft. higher, while its depth extends to 1590 ft. below the sea-
level. Its lofty banks are partly wooded. From Nor a steamer plies
occasionally in 31 '2-4 hrs. to Qrodaas and Kjes (p. 194).
From Kordfjoudeid to Volden (p. 203), 46 Kil. A road leads to the
W. alung the Eidsfjord to a bifurcation, whence the road to the left
leads to Naustdal (aee above), and that to the right to (15 Kil.) the slow
station of Smerdal. Fine view of the Gjegnabrae (see below) behind us.
The road crosses the pass (1640 ft.) and descends rapidly to (11 Kil., pay
for 13) the slow station of Sendre Birkedal , on the lake of that name,
with picturesque rocky environs. Then, pa.st Kile., to the (10 Kil.) slow
station of SIrems/iavn, on the. JCile/Jord, the S.W. liay nf the Voldenfjord,
and by boat across the Ijord to (10 Kil.) Vnlden.
From Sendre Birkedal an interesting path ascends the Laurdal and
crosses the fjeld to the Dalsfjord. On the way we may ascend tlie 'Felden
(429S ft.) for the .«ake of a grand mountain and glacier view, in which
case the whole route takes 8-iO hr.<. (with guide). We descend to Indre
Dale, on the Dalr/Jord, an arm of the Voldenijord. Thence to Volden
by boat about li Kil.
Returning to the entrance of the Eidsfjord, the steamer rounds
the promontory of Haunnces and enters the Isfjord. Beyond the
promontory of Askevik we enter the Aalfotfjord, where the steamer
calls at Aalfot. To the S. of the Isfjord we see the *0ksend(tls-
slrenge, the discharges of the Aalfothrif and the (ijeynabrce, which
descend in fine cascades from the gorges of the Vestre and /Ustre
0ksendal. We approacli quite close to tliese falls in leaving tlie
184 R.2r>. — Map,p.lR9. TIUNnVIKRFJORD. Nnrdfjord.
Aalfottjonl. Farther on we pass the mighty Skjcer in g (4075 ft.),
■with tlie solitary farm of Skjeistrand. The fjord here is called the
HundviksQord. We cross the mouth of the Hyenfjord, which cuts
deep into the S. bank (view of the Gjegnabrae), to the station
Hestnctseren (quarters at the post-offlce). Some of the steamers go
on to Hyen, at the S. end of the fjord.
In the Hyenfjord, opposite HestncPg^ren, opens the Skjaerdal, a grand
valley, through which we may proceed past the Heimestel to the Gjegnabrw.
1'he. fivartevandstind s.-aA t\\c Ojegnet (5650 ft.), two splendid points of view,
may be ascended. The descent may be made to the 0ksendal, or to the
S. to Hope, near the S. end of the Hyefjord (guide and rope necessary). —
Other good opportunities for glacier-excursions are afforded by the Bukkenipa
(5250 ft.) and Ihe Slorhesl, to the W. fjf the 0ksendal, and by the Marielind
and Sagen, to the W. of the Aalfotbrw.
The steamer now steers round the Kvitemvs and enters the at-
tractive Gloppenfjord, the W. side of which is flanked by lofty
mountains, some clad with snow. In this fjord are Ryy and the
churcli of Oimmestad on tlie W. bank, and the church of Oloppen oa
the E. bank. We next reach (3t/2-4 hrs. from Nordfjordeid) —
SAndene or Gloppen (*Hot. Gloppen. 5 niin. from the pier,
English spoken, R., B., or S. I72, ^- ^1/4 kr. ; *K. G. Sivertsen's
Hotel, 5 min. farther on, similar charges; Engl. Ch. Serv. in Aug.),
charmingly situated at the S.E. end of the fjord, whore the road
from Red along the Bredheimsvand (seep. 181) terminates (carriages
to Skei, etc., see p. 178). Beautiful walks and good trout-lishing
near. Steamers ply to Bergen thrice weekly and to Faleide, Loen,
and Olden five times weekly.
We return to the main fjord, here called TJtfjord. The hills are
prettily wooded and dotted with farms. Fine retrospect of the
glacier-sheathed Gjegnet( see above) to the S.W. Stations: Rysfjceren,
on the S. bank, and Rand, on the N. bank. On the N. bank, a little
farther on, is a line waterfall. The fjord is now called the Invikfjord.
Numerous gaards are seen on the green slopes of the N. bank. To
the E. we have a view of the glaciers of the Store Cecilienkrona and
Grytereidsnib. In 31/2 hrs. after leaving Sandene we reach —
Utviken (^Hotel Britannia, kept by Landhandler Loen), a pretty,
scattered village with a church. The road from Egge (p. 181) ends
here. It is also a station of the Bergen and Nordfjord steamers. The
fjord now turns sharply to the N. On the left rises the Selvhjery-
fjeld, with several gaards on its slopes. On the right, in a beautiful
bay, lies the steamboat-station Indviken (no inn), with its church,
at the mouth of the wild Frctstedal, which is flanked by the Skarsten-
fjcld (5384 ft.), on the N., and the Sterlaugpig (5544 ft. ; both easy
and interesting ascents), on the S. We next steer round the pro-
montory of Hildehalsen, where the tjord again turns to the E., to —
Faleide (*Tenc?en's Hotel, three houses; landlord speaks English;
Engl. Ch. Serv. in July & Aug.), which, has now lost much of its
importance as a tourist-centre in comparison with Vismes, Loen,
and Olden (local boats, see p. 182). — A road affording beautiful
Nordfjord. VISN^.S. Map, p. 182. — 25. U. 185
views, from wliich the Grodaas road (p. iy4) (Uverges to the left,
skirts tbe fjoni, crosses the Stryiis-Elv at Tonlna, and leaJs to Visnses
(9 Kil. ; skyds for one pars. 1 kr. 53, two pers. 2 kr. 35 e. ; calesch-
vogn for two. three, or four pers. 4, 5, or 51/2 kr.)
The fjord is now superb. Beyond it towers the castellated Aar-
heimsfjeld (_2018 ft.), at the foot of whicli opens the Strynsdal. At
the mouth of this valley lies the steamboat-station —
Visnaes y Stryn [*Holel Cenlral, also a skyds-station, R. IV^---
D. 21/4, B. or S. 11/2, pens. 4-6 kr. ; Visnaes Hotel, \txy fair, English
spoken, both at the pier; Hot. Wiiy, on the road to Faleide, 1 M.
from the pier, beyond the bridge over the Stryns-Elv, at Toning,
see above), the starting-point for the Strynsdal and the Videdal
(p. 188). A road to Loen is being constructed.
In the distance, a little to the right of the Aarheimsfjeld, are
the SIcaala (6360 ft.; 'bowl'J, with its glacier-basin, and the .San-
denib (p. 187); nearer rises the Auflemsfjeld (see below), which
separates the Loendal from the Oldindal. To the riglit, behind the
Auflemsfjeld, appears lat 'r the Melheimsnib (p. 187). To the
.S. wc lonk up the Oldendal, with the Store Cecilienkrona (W. ;
p. 18()) and the Havnefjeldsbrai (E.). On the N. bank rises the
Opheimsfjeld, a splendid point of view (ascent from the gaard liuke,
2 hrs.).
Loen (^Hotel Alexandra, two large houses, English spoken; R.,
B., or S. IV2, !>• 2, pens. 4V2-5kr. ; Engl. Gh. Scrv. in July &
Aug.), with a small church, at tlie mouth of the Loendal (p. 187),
bounded by the Lofjdd (N. ) and thi^. Auflemsfjeld {S.; 5090 ft.).
The voyage from Loen toOlden takes V2l"'-i from Visnais ^/^hr.
Olden, or Olderen [Yri's Hotel, ^/^ M. from the pier; carriages
in waiting at the pier; Engl. Ch. Serv. in summer), lies at tlie
S. end of the fjord, at the mouth of the beautiful Oldeitdal. To the
right we see the Store Cecilienkrona and the l!eMn;es-Ivlaaven, to
the left the Synsnib and the Midheimsnili ((;onip. p. 180).
Excursions to the Oldendal, Loendal, and Strynsdal.
The (Lrcc valleys Oldendal, Loendal, and SIri/nsdal, to the S.E. and
K. ul' the Invikfjord, extend into the heart of the Norwesjian Fjeld, and
to the Jostedahbrw (p. ISO). Kach of these valleys is occupied by a lake,
11-16 Kil. lon'^, formed by an ancient moraine or rocky ridu,e (Kid),
which separates it from the fjord. All three lakes, but especially those
in the Oldendal and Loendal, are enclosed by hut;e precipices rising to
5U0O ft., over which lower peaks to a height of 1000-1500 ft. more. From
these descend glaciers on every side. The abundance of trout and salmon
attracts many anglers. — Guides are not necessary except for the glaciers.
The best are said to be Anders E. Brigsdal, Jiasmus R. Aabrickke. Lars
Jonssen Balalden, and Ilalstein Muri of Olden, Thov Antonsen Greidtitnj of
Oiistryn, the two No'sdals (p. 188j, and J. J. Myklehostad (p. ISG).
1. *ExcuiisioN TO TUB Oluendal (there and back, 8^/2 hrs.).
Olden, see above. The road to Eide (5 Kil.; stolkjairre IV2 '''"m
there and back 2 kr. (10 n.) would form a pleas.nnt walk were i\ot the
186 R.25.— Map,p.l8-2. OLDENVAND. Nordfjord.
starting of the steam-launches on the Oldenvand so arranged as to
leave no time for it. The road ascends along the milky stream, with
continuous view of the Store Cecilienkrona (see below) , passes
the Lekenfos halfway, and crosses the river. It then skirts the W.
side of the pretty Floenvand to (25 min.) the gaards of —
Eide, at the N. end of the *01deiivand (120 ft.), 11 Kil. long and
barely 1 Kil. broad , enclosed by precipitous rocks. The steam-
launch (1 1/2 kr., there and back 21/2 kr.), which makes the passage in
'■^/iliT., is dirty and uninviting, and (if time allows) a rowing-boat,
with two rowers, which costs 5 kr. and takes 2 hrs., is preferable.
On the left, soon after starting, we see the gaard of Sandnces,
and on the right an ancient moraine with the gaard of Bennas,
above which rises the Bennces-Klaaven. Waterfalls on every side.
To the right rise the huge precipices of the Store Cecilienkrona
(5625 ft. ; ascent fairly easy, guide 6 kr.). To the left, by the side
of torrents, lie the gaards of Haahjem, Strand, and Ojerde. To the
S. the lake appears walled in by the Synsnib, but on neariug Sunde
we see through an opening to the right the Orytereidsnib (5615 ft.)
and the Yrinib with two glaciers. • — The strait of *Sunde has been
formed by the deposits of two streams descending on the left from
the SundebrcE, between the Ojerdeaxele (6420 ft.) and the Neslenib
(4860 ft.). On the same bank are the gaards of -Swric/e. A strong
current flows through this narrow strait. On rounding the sombre
steeps of the Synsnib, we obtain a magnificent **View of the S.
half of the lake, which here expands a little. The Maelkevoldsbrje,
a huge and imposing glacier, seems to descend to the head of the
lake. To the right towers the Yrinib, with its waterfalls, and at its
base lie the gaards of Bak-Yri and Indre-Yri. At the end of the
lake is the Rustefjeld, with its waterfall. On the left is the preci-
pice of the Kvamfjeld, with several other cascades. The steam-
launch lands at —
Rusteen (rfmts. at the guide Jakob Jenssen Myklebostad^s},
whence it starts 4 hrs. later for the return-trip. This does not allow
too much time for a visit to the Brigsdalsbrae, and the traveller is
therefore recommended to secure one of the vehicles in waiting
(cariole to Gaard Brigsdal, about 5 Kil., 2, stolkjjerre 3 kr.). A
good road leads across swampy alluvial lands, passing (10 min.) the
gaards of Kvamme, to (1/2 hr.) Malkevoid. To the left, above us,
is the Aabrekkebra, enclosed by two rocky heights and taking its
name from the gaards visible beyond Mselkevold. Also to the left
is the Brigsdalsbrffi. At the head of the valley is the beautiful Mcclke-
■iioldsbrae, imbedded between the Kattenak and the Middagsnib. To
the right of the glacier is the pretty twin fall of the Vaalefos.
Fkom M^lkevold to Aamot, a fine fjeld-pass of 7-8 hrs., see p. 181.
Rasmus R. Aabraike may be recommended as a guide.
The road ascends over 'Ur' and in 25 min. crosses the river at
the confluem e of the streams desiending from tlie Vaalefos and the
Nordfjord. LOENDAL. .¥<jp, p. 752.— 25. R. 187
Brigsdal (I.). In 10 min. more we reach the end of the road at
Guard Brigsdal (490 ft.) where dinner may be ordered to be ready
on our return (very fair, '2 kr. ; bottle of beer 60 0.).
A stony path on the right bank of the Brigsdals-Elv ascends to
the C/o hr.) Waterfall of that stream, and to a higher zone of the
valley, where we obtain to the E. a striking view of the '''Brigsdals-
brae, the blue ice-waves of which tower above birch and alder
tliickets. Our route leads through the wood to (20 min.) the foot
of the glacier (1000 ft.), containing a superb ice-cavern, from which
the stream issues. Another glacier, from which waterfalls and
occasionally blocks of ice descend, is seen high up to the S.
The Brigdalsbrae, an offshoot of the Jostedalsbrse, ia very steep and
was ascended for the first time in 1895 by K. Bing (p. 117), with the gnide
Rasmus Rasmussen Aabrekke (to the top, 9 hrs.).
2. **ExcuRsiON TO THE LoBNr).\L (7 hrs. , there and back).
Loen, see p. 186. The road to the Loenvand (stolkjaerre 1 kr. ;
a pleasant walk, but comp. pp. 185, 186) ascends on the right bank
of the foaming torrent. We follow the main road, which trends to
the right. The landscape, with its trees, shrubs, and green meadows,
looks like a park. Above it tower great mountains, partly snow-
clad. The road crosses the stream coming down from the Tjuyedal
on the left. The Loendals-Elv forms the Haugfos, a fall of horseshoe
shape.
The ascent of the Skaala (6356 ft.; from Loen and back 7-3 hrs. ; guide
5 kr., fur a party rather more) is attractive. A new road, ascending from
the Tjugedal, is to be completed in 1903. A stone tower crowns the top.
A vast snow-licld covers the W. slope. — A sajter-path to the E. of the
Tjugedal leads to the TJugedals- Safer, whence we ascend steeply (no path)
over unplea'^ant 'Ur' to the top of the pass. On the other side we de-
scend at first over snow and then bv a path to the church of 0})stryn
(p. 189; 5-6 hrs. in all).
In 25 min. from Loen if driving, in 3 ^ hr. if on foot, we reach —
Vasenden, at the N. end of the *Loenvaiid, a grand Alpine lake,
12 Kil. long. It is traversed by a steamboat (return-fare l^j-i kr.),
which takes ■'^ hr. to reach the head of the lake. A rowing-boat
(there and back b^ji^r., with two rowers) takes about 2 hrs.
Soon after starting we are in full view of the whole lake. On
the left, above the gaard of Sande, rises the Sandenib (5425 ft.);
on the right are the Auflemsfjeld and the Melheimsnib (5428 ft.).
From all the mountains, especially from the Kavnefjeld (6575 ft.)
on the right, descend large glaciers, all, however, ending high
above the lake. At the Brengsnces-Sater, on the left, a lofty M-ater-
fall descends from the Skaalebrae (p. 188). On the W. side of
the lake is the huge Hellesaterbrce, terminating abruptly at a height
of about 3900 ft., from which numerous streams and (in hot
weather) ice-avalanches fall, spreading out below like a fan. On the
E. bank are the gaard of Hogrending and a waterfall coming from
the Ostendiit.slirie. The W. bank is uninhabited. On the E. rises
188 7?.o,5.__3f„p^ p. 7«o. KJENT)ALSnR.4^. Nnrdfjnril.
the Kvcernhusfjeld (5700 ft.), with the gaard of Redi at its foot.
To the W. is the serrated liavnefjeld (6575 ft.), the base of
•which we skirt tovpards the S. On the left we look up the Bedal,
■with its gaard, backed by the Skaalfjeld with the Skaalehra.
From the gaard of B0dal we may visit the Bedals-Soeter and the ad-
jacent Bedalsbrce (I'/is-S hrs.). By sleeping at the sater 3 hrs. distant
from B0dal, we may ascend the Lodalskaupe (6790 ft.; 8-10 hrs.; p. 14C).
This is a fine excursion, for which two guides (30 kr.) and provisions are
necessary. Arrangements must be made beforehand at Loen , and the
steamboat should be notilied to call at B/sdal for the return on the follow-
ing day.
The lake contracts to a strait. In front of us towers the Nons-
nib, rising sheer to the overwhelming height of over 6000 ft. To
the right, in front of it, opens the Kvanddl or Nasdal, with its
glacier, adjoining which is the Vliydrd.ffos, a waterfall 2000 ft.
liigh, descending from the glaciers of the Kavnefjeld. Passing
through a bend of the lake, we enter the impressive *Basin of Naes-
dal, bounded by the Kavnefjeld on the W., the Nonsnib on the
S., and the Bedalsfjeld on the E. Between the last two peep the
Kronehra and the KjenddLskronn (bQdb ft.). The grandeur of the
scenery here is unequalled in 8. Norway. On the alluvial land at
the mouth of the Kvanduls-Elv lie the turf-roofed gaards of Ncpsd(d.
At the landing-place of 'Kjendal is a restaurant kept by the
landlord of the Alexandra Hotel (p. 185), where a dinner (2 kr.)
may be ordered for the return. A new tourist-route (practicable
for vehicles for a distance of ij'/a l^ih) leads hence over a sandy,
level stretch and then ascends the N. side of the valley; a stone em-
bankment protects it on the side next the river. After about 3/4 hr.
suddenly appears the *Kjendalsbrae, on which waterfalls descend
from the right. In Y2 ^^^- more, crossing part of the glacier-stream
on stepping-stones, we reach the glacier. The stream issues from
a magniticent vault of blue ice. It is dangerous to walk on the
glacier, or even to go too near it, on account of the falling stones.
From Nasdal (tolerable quarters at Jacob N(esdaVs) across the Josle-
dalsbrce to the Josiedal, a grand e.xpedition of about 15 hrs. (comp. p. 147).
(juides, Jacob and Simon Ncesdal.
3. **A Visit to the Stkynsdal is made almost exclusively on
tlie way to or from Grotlid (comp. p. 190), but also forms, in con-
juiii;tiou with a drive to a point above Skaare (p. 190), a fine day's
excursion from Visnaes or Faleide (10-11 hrs.).
Visnas, see p. 185. The road (skyds, 1 pers. 1 kr. 87, 2 pers.
2 kr. 81 e. ; caleschvogn for 1, 2, or 3 pers. 5, 6, or 7 kr.) crosses
the Stryns-Elv, on the right bank of which the routes to Faleide-
Hellesylt (to the left, via Toning, p. 185) and to Stryn diverge
from each other. Our road ascends to the E. via Ytre Eide (waterfall),
the church of Nedstryn (right), and the gaards of Gjerven a.n(i.J0vre
Eide. On the other bank stands the house of an Englishman wlio
holds the lease of the flsliing. Farther on we skirt tlie Nedre I'loden.
Xoril/jord. STin'N.SVAND. Map, p.l8-J.— -25. R. 189
tlic lower arm of tlie Stryiisvaml ; to the left of the road is a large
'giant's cauldron' or pot-liole (p. 294). The huge mountain ahead
is the Flofjeld, with the Kindalshorn; to the right is the Bra>kke-
fjeld, with a large snow-field. In II/4 hr. after leaving Visnajs we
cross to the S. bank of the lake aiid reach —
11 Kil. Mindre Sunde (*Hot. MindreSunde, well suited for a long
stay, R. l'/2, D. 2, B. or S. ii/i kr.), the starting-point of the
poor steam-launch which crosses once or twice daily to (13 Kil.)
Hjellein IV4-- lirs. (fare I1/2 kr.}. Sunde is not a skyds-station,
but small boats may generally be procured for Hjelle ('2'/4-'2V2 1^^^- i
boat with two rowers 3 kr. 64 0., with three rowers 5 kr. 20 0., and
gratuity). Carriages may also be had here for driving back to
Visnffis. — The skyds-station is 3 Kil. farther to the E., at Bergstad
or Meland (Hot. Victoria).
The *Strynsvand or Opstrynsvand (80ft.), the largest of the
three Alpine lakes to the E. of the Nordfjord, is not less imposing
than the Oldenvaiid and Loenvaud , and even surpasses them in
variety. It is 16 Kil. long and 650 ft. deep and at first is narrow.
The Store Sundfos descends on the left. To the right is the gaard
of Dispen, below the glacier of the same name. In front the scene
is closed by the Flofjeld, behind by the sharp Kirkenibbe. On the
bank to the right lies Meland (see above). To the left rises the
wall of the Skjibergsfjeld, beyond which opens the Vesle Bygdal,
with its gaards. At two islets, beyond the gaard of Lindvik (on
the leftl, the lake expands, bends to the S.E., and reveals its full
grandeur. In front is the Erdal, with its background of glaciers.
To the right is the Fosnceshrce, descending from the Skaala ( p. 187).
To the left is the Marsaafos; then, the Flofjeld {iAOO ft.), with the
Kindalshorn (pdbO ft.') behind it, and the gaards of Fio (720 ft. ;
good quarters; guide for the pass over the Flofjeld to Hellesylt,
p. 19(3) perched in front of it. To the right is the 'nose" of Tunolds-
haugen, with the gaards of Tunold and (higher up) Bnrkke and
Alining. Farther on, to tlie right, are the Church of Opstryn and
the gaards of Fosnas, which give name to the just-mentioned glacier.
On the other side we see into the Qlomsdal, with the gaards of
Glomsntvs and Sigdestad ; below is a fine waterfall. The huge Hjelle-
hydna separates the Videdal from the majestic Erdal, in which, as
we near Hjelle, appears the Tindefjeldsbrce (r.), overlooked by the
peak of the Yngvar Nielsens Tind (5775 ft.). At the mouth of the
Videdal lies —
Hjelle or Jelle (*Hot. Hjelle, li. 11/2, B. IV4, 1>. 21/4, S. I'/o kr.),
the starting-point for the pass to the Geiranger (R. 26) and the
Gudbrandsdal (see pp. 190 and 68-66).
The traveller will also be repaid by a visit to the wild Sundal, to
which a poor road divcrgo<! to the right about 2 Kil. from Hjelle. It
leads to the gaanl of Stinlalen (8 Kil.), whence we may walk to (IVz l»r.)
the SuiHlols-ScBter (pass to the Rauddal and the Framrust-Seeter, see p. 63).
1^>0 Route l>6. SKAARE.
From IJjelle we may row in a short ','2 hr. to tlie gaartl »t Erdal, at
the S. end of the Strynsvand, whence a walk of 1/2 hr. brings us to the
gaard oi Oredung (tolerable quarters; Thor Antnnsen Greidung, certificated
guide), the starting-point of a visit to the '-Erdal or Aardal, into which
glaciers descend on all sides. Before us, to the right, is the Tindefjeldsbra\
with Yngvar Nielsens find (ascended by K. Bing in 1893); to the left are
the Ryghydna (53'25 ft.) and the Sceterfjeld (6203 ft.1. From Grednng we
ascend, with a view of the Erdalsbrce or Oredungsbrm , which stretches
down between the Strt/nskaupe and the Skaal/jeld , to (2-21/2 hrs.) the
loftily-situated Oredungs-Sreier, at the foot of the fissured glacier (2316 ft.).
— The route from the Gredungs-Saeter over the Jostedalsbrse to the
Lodalskaupe (p. 18S), and past it to Faaberg in the Jostedal (p. 188), takes
9-11 hrs., and requires an experienced guide (12-14 kr.).
26. From the Nordfjord to Aalesund and Molde.
a. From the Strynsvand vifi. Grotlid to Marok.
82 Kil. Road with fast stations. The whole distance is rather fatiguing
for one day, but the nightquarters at Grotlid and at the Djupvashytte can
hardly be recommended. The best bits for walking (not befure mid-July ;
comp. below) are from Skaare to Vasrendingen (see lielow and p. 191; 4V2hrs.)
and from the Djupvashytte to Marok (pp.192, 193; 3'/2hrs.). As Vasvendingen
is not a station, those who wish to drive from that point must bring skyds
from Stenhus; in the opposite direction skyds may be obtained in Grotlid
for the stage to Vasvendingen (15 Kil.). A 'kaleschvogn' and pair from Hjelle
to Marok for 2 pers. costs 55, for 3 pers. 65, for 4 pers. 70 kr. ; a cariole costs
for 1 pers. 23 kr. 17 0. and a stolkjserre (2 pers.) 34 kr. 76 0.
The '*Road through the Videdal to Grotlid, opened for traffic in 1896,
forms, in conjunction with the road to Marok (opened in 1889), the finest
means of access from the Nordfjord to the district of S0ndm0re (Aalesund,
Molde). Both routes are seen to greatest advantage in descending the
valley ; but the Videdal road reveals so many magnificent views in both
directions, that it may also be recommended to walkers and others ascend-
ing the valley. The main charm of the Geiranger road is its sudden
plunge from the lofty fjelds to the sea-level. Both roads rank among the
very finest in W. Norway. Even in June the snow may still be troublesome.
Hjelle, at the E. end of the Strynsvand, see p. 189. — The road
ascends along an ancient moraine, through which the Videdals-Elv
has broken its way. Fine *Retrospect of the finely shaped and
conspicuous Skaala (p. 187), the Tindefjeld, the Fomcfsbrm, the
Brcekkefjeld, and other snow-mountains to the S.W. of the Stryns-
vand. Farther on the road becomes more level. To the right opens the
Sundal (p. 189), with the snow-flelds and glaciers of the Ssterfjeld.
A bridge crosses the Sundals-Elv. The gaards of Folven are passed.
The loops of the road on the Aaspelifjeld are seen in the distance.
We cross the river and after a drive of 3/4 hr. from Hjelle reach —
7 Kil. Skaare (D. '2kr. ; owner, RasmusSkaare, an excellent guide).
From Skaare to the Djupvashttte, a grand, but laborious route of
6-6V2hrs. (guide; stout boots necessary for the marshy places). From the
J0lbro (p. 191) we ascend to the left, through the Skceringsdal, to the
(I3/4 hr.) Skaringsdal-Sicter. Hence the route leads to the right, up the
Grasdal, to the Gvasdalsvand and thence (steep) to (4 hrs.) the snow-covered
Grasdalsskar , between the Grasdalsegg and the SkKringsdal'bric. We
then descend to the (3/4 hr.) Djupvashytte (p. 192).
About 2 Kil. beyond Skaare we have a view to the right of the
deep ravine of the Videdals-Elv. The road reaches the mouth of
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GROTLID. t>6\ livute. 191
the Shrringsddl, crosses it. by the ^Jelbro (300 ft. above the river),
and ascends the Anspelifjeld in sweeping curves between the two
ravines. To the right is a lofty waterfall, descending from the snow-
flelds of the Nuken. The road crosses the Videdals-EIv and follows
its left bank. Grand ^Retrospect of the Videdal, flanked on both
sides by mountains projecting one before another. In the background
rises the Skaala. Walkers, who cut off the curves of the road, take
l-li/4hr. from the Jelbro to the top of the pass. [A footpath to the
left here leads to (5 min. ) a ralled-off terrace commanding a view
of the Bfstebrofoa.] A walk of 20-25 min. more up the gentler
ascent of the upper valley, finally recrossing to the right bank of the
stream, brings us to the former skyds-station of Stenhtis (2560 ft.).
The next part of the route is much hampered with snow even as
late as August.
About l'/.2 Kil. farther on begin the windings by which the road
ascends to a third level of the valley. To the right and left are
waterfalls. To the right, high up on the slope of the Raudegg, is the
long Tystighnr. We have another fine retrospect of the head of the
Strynsvand. backed by the Skaala and the Brcekkefjeld.
13 Kil. (pay for 17) Vide-Saeter '(/nn, opened in 1903, kept by
the guide Ramsus Skanre; R. IV2, B. or S. 1 1/2, D- 'iVi kr.). — The
road twice crosses the stream, which here forms many pretty water-
falls, passes several tarns, and on the Langevand, which is not
wholly free of ice till August, reaches the boundary between Nordre-
Bergenhus-Amt and (!hristiaiis-Amt. To the right is the E. part of
the Tystigbrse.
Farther on we pass several small lakes, as we follow the hilly
road through the Vatxvenddal. At Vnsrendingcn (rfmts.) we reach the
highest point of the road (3740 ft.; a drive of I1/.2 hr. from the
Vide-Sieter). To the right is the Skridulaupbrae (p. 192). Behind
we have our last view of the Skaala.
Grotlid is still 15 Kil. distant, a drive of ll^-l'/'ihr. To the right,
between the Raudeggen and the Skridulaupen, opens the Maaraadal,
with its snow-fields and glaciers. Beyond the Heilstuguvand Grotlid
comes into sight. The Stryn road joins the Geiranger road 3 Kil. to
the W. of Grotlid, which is reached 4 hrs. after leaving Stenhus.
Those who d(i nut .''pend fhe night at Grotlid and have arran^'ed for
skyds at the Vide-Snter save 6 Kil. and the delay of a halt at Grotlid by
turning to the left (W.) at the juiiction of the two roads.
28 Kil. ( pay for 42) Grotlid, Qrjotli., or OrjotUen ('stony slope' ;
2865 ft.), a Fjcldstuc or mountain-inn belonging to government,
resembling those on the Dovrefjeld (p. 71), affords tolerable fare
(R., B., or S. 11/21 D. 2 kr.). It is situated in a typical fjeld-solitude.
To the S. we see the long snow-field of the Skridulaupen. Grotlid
is the junction of the roads from Stryn and the Geiranger on the
one hand and that from the Gudbrandsdal (R. 9) on the other.
Reindeer and occasionally bears are to be met with in the environs.
192 l{.'26.~Map,p.I90. D.IUPVASIIYTTE. From the Nordfjord
Skvds Tahhk. To the fJjupvashi/fte (3 hrs.), 1 pers. 6 kr. 12, 2 pcrs.
9kr. 180.; to Mavok 10 kr. 54, 15 kr. 81 0.; to the Slenhus in the Videdal
(3V2hrs.), 1 pers. 8 kr. 80, 2 pers. 13 kr. 20 f<. ; to Skaare 11 kr. 44, 17 kr.
16 0.; UUIJeile 12 kr. 63, 18 kr. Qo0.\ to Polfossen (2'/2hrs. ; p. 6S), 1 pers.
4 kr. 59, 2 pers. 6 kr. 89 0.
From Grotlid to the Tafjord, abnut 11 hrs. (!j;uide to Kaldhus-Seetcr
necessary, 4-5 kr. ; horse 7 kr.). The path leaves the Marok road by the
bridge over the JIamsa (see below ; the path on the right bank soon
ceases), and ascends the course of that stream to its source in the Via-
vande. a series of lakes to the W. of the HeiUtugegg and the Langegg.
Later on it passes the Fugerbottenvand and descends to the Kaldhus or
Kalur Scefer, on the lake of that name (1970 ft.; good entertainment in the
tourist-hut). Descent to the Tafjord (p. 201) 9-10 Kil. more.
Beyond the cross-roads mentioned above left, 'til Stryii'; right,
'til Gjiranger'J the Marok Road reaches the Breidalsvand (28S5l't. ;
8 Kil. long), bounded on the N. by the Breidalsegg and on the S. by
the V<itsvendegg or Langunsaxeln, and skirts its N. bank, crossing
several of its tributaries. Among these is the Hamsa, about 5 Kil.
from Grotlid, where the Tafiord route diverges (see above). We
pass the small Lagervand and tlie Lnngvand, with the Stavbrirkker
rising on the left and the Djvpvasegg (5400 ft.) on the right. About
10 Kil. from Grotlid a stone marks the boundary between the
Christians-Amt and the Romsdcils-Amt.
To the left appears the snowy expanse of the Skceringsdalsbnr,
to the S.W. of the J>jupvand (3300 ft.), which our road now reaches.
The water of this blue lake, often ice-clad as late as August, descends
to the E. to the Otta and the Laagen. The valley still rises a little
towards the right. At the top the Kolheinsdal descends to the N.,
traversed by a varde-marked path to the Viavande, Kaldhus-Sfeter,
and the Tafjord (comp. above). The road skirts the D.jupvand, on
the S. side of which we perceive the huge rocks of the Grasdalsegg
(5170 ft.) and the Sk^eringsdalsbrae. A 'bautasten' marks the
highest point of the road (3405 ft.). — At the W. end of the lake,
5 Kil. from the frontier-stone, is the —
2iKil. (pay for 36) Djupvashytte, 'il/i Its', drive from Grotlid,
[Jnn, R., B., &'s. each IV2, D- 2 kr.).
From the Djupvashytte via the Orasdalsskar and the ^kccringsdal to
Skaare, see p. 190 (guide 5 kr.).
A few hundred yards farther on we reach the watershed between
the Skager-Rack (towards which the Otta flows) and the Atlantic.
The road skirts the Rundhorn (4900 ft.). About 35 min. beyond the
Djupvashytte a finger-post on the left points the way to the Jcvtle-
gryde, a 'giant's cauldron' (p. 294), 7 ft. in diameter and 10-12 ft.
deep, which lies a few steps below the road.
The **FiNEST Part of the Route begins here (road built in
1881-89). The traveller should walk (31/2 lirs-; a drive of I3/4-
2 brs.). The road descends rapidly, in sharp zigzags and over bold
bridges spanning the wild torrent, to the Geiranger Fjord. Between
the brink of the descent' and Marok the distance is about 16 Kil.,
though in a straight line scarcely 6 Kil., and the difference in height
toMolde. GEIRANGER ROAD. Map,p.l90.-26.R. 193
is over 3000 ft. The road ranks among the grandest of its kind, and
the sudden and tremendous plunge it takes is not surpassed eveu
among the Alps.
A superb mountain-picture presents itself j ust beyond the 'giant's
cauldron', on crossing the 0i:re Blaafjeld-Bro. On the left rises
the Ftydalshorn, on the right the Vindaashorn ; beyond the latter
the Saathom (5830 ft.), aud then the Grindnlsnibba (6030 ft.). In
the distance are the mountains enclosing the Geiranger Fjord. Far
below lies the smiling Opl^endskedal, which, in contrast to the
overwhelming proportions of the fjeld, looks like an artificial park,
with its winding stream and curving road. In '/4 hr. we cross the
Nedre Blaafjeld-Bro. Walkers will do well to keep to the road, and
should in any case follow only the footpath 10 Min. beyond the Nedre
Blaafjeld-Bro and that beyond the stone marked '800 m. over Havet'.
To the right is the Kvandals-Elo, whii-h descends in several falls
from the Djupedal. In ^/4 hr. more we cross it by the Kvandah-Brn,
Four bold curves carry us down to the highest part of the Geiranger
basin, called the Opland-'^kedal , with the Oplandsgaard and the
0rje-SiHer (1410 ft. ; to the right, V2 hr. from the Kvandals-Bro).
The road again descends rapidly to the next region of the valley,
called the Flydal, with view, to the left, of the Flydalshorn and the
Bluahorn. Between these, high above the gaard oi Flydal, appears
the Flydalsbra, a huge snowy glacier with large crevasses. About
V4 M. beyond the 0rje-S£eter, 6 Kil. from Marok, the road forms a
'knude' or knot (1335 ft.), as it passes exactly under a higher part
of itself. To the left, about 1/2 M. farther on, is the picturesque
Tverabefos, which, however, is not seen in its entirety except from
the rocks below the road. A finger-post, 10 min. farther on, indi-
cates the way to the *Flydalsdjuvet (985 ft.), where we gaze to the
left into an abyss of several hundred feet. In front of us we see the
last level of the valley, with the Union Hotel and the church of
Marok. A little later the road passes the comfortable Hotel Udsigten
(p. 196), the view from which is similar to that from the Flydalsdjuv.
Very striking, as we descend, is the increasing number of water-
falls on every side. The largest tributaries descend on the right
from the Vesteraasdul, and unite below the gaard Hole, 5 min. from
the Hotel Udsigten, where we cross the Hole-Bro. About 2 min.
farther on a finger-post to the right indicates the way to the StoV'
salerfos (p. 197). We cross the Kope-Bro. The fine fall of the
Vesteraas-Elv, called the Kleivafos, is reached by a path to the
right ('100 m. over Havet), just above the Gjerde-Bro.
In 5 min. more we reach the Union Hotel (p. 196). The road
crosses the Vinje-Bro and passes the copious Storfos, beyond which
the river hurries with all the water of the valley to the fjord. It
then rounds the hill on which the church of O'tiramjer stands,
passes the Geiranger Hotel, and ends at the steamboat-pier of —
17 Kil. (pay for 26) Marok (see p. 196).
l'.Ai;uKKEi:'s Niii-vvay unil Sweden. 8th Kdit. l;-}
194 R.2C,.--Map,p.lS2. GROPAAS. From the Nonlfjord
b. From Faleide or Visnses wik Grodaas to Hellesylt
and Marok.
Road from Faleide or Visnses to Hellesylt with fast stations. Tlie
entire journey (8-9 Urs.) is often performed without change of horses,
with a rest of I'/x hr. at Grodaas. Fares from Visnaes to Hellesylt: 1 pars.
10 kr. 37, 2 pers. 15 kr. 57 0; caleschvogn for 2, 3, or 4 pars., 30. 34, or 37 kr.
(from Faleide 25, 27'/-, or 33 kr.). — Steamer from Hellesylt to Murok
several times a week in I'/a lir. (fare 2kr.); at other times a row-hoat
must lie used.
At the gaard o( Svarstad, about 2 Kil. from Faleide (p. 184)
and 7 Kil. from Visiiaes (p. 185), the road ascends in steep wind-
ings to the N.W., affording fine retrospects, through openings in
the wood, of the fjord and the mountains to the S. The highest
point of the road is about 800 ft. above tlie sea. Then over un-
dulating ground, througli a monotonous wooded district, skirting
tlie Lunyso'lerviind and several smaller lakes, and past several
gaards, we descend to —
12 Kil. (pay for 17 from Faleide, 23 from Visnies ) Kjes (Hotel
Kjers, very fair), on Kjesbunden, the S.E. bay of tlie Hornindals-
vand. We may row from Kjes to Grodaas, but driving is quicker.
Tlie liilly road skirts the lake and rounds the Kjffsnelh.
6 Kil. (pay for 8) Gxod.a.a.s (RaflevoUrs Holel, tolerable, K., B.,
or S. ll/o, D. 2 kr.), at the IL end of the Horninddlsvund, a lake
abounding in flsh and enclosed by wooded hills, on which a steam-
boat generally plies in summer (see also p. 183). A little to the
N. is the church of Hornindal. To the N.W. rises the Hornsnakk.
ExouKSioNS fioiu firodaas to Homsnakken, Kje/snebhen, and cither height.';,
2'/v:-3hrs. each. — The Gulekoj, (see lielow) and the OHltereggi,kVi'i ft. ; 5-G hrs.),
which rises from the lake to the S., may also be ascendrd hence.
From Grodaas a bridle-path leads by Tominastjaard and Ledi'mel
(where Rasmus A. L0demel is a good guide, who speaks English) to the
pass of Kviven (2795 ft.) and past the KvivdaUSutre, where it joins a
path from Oterdal on the Hornindalsvand, to (5 hrs.) Kaldvatii, on the
road from Bjerke to F0rde on the 03tetjord (p. 199).
A liner but longer route is the passage of the Hjorleskav to Rgrstad
(7-8 hrs.). This rinite ascends the Hjortdal (see below) to the Iljortdals-
iHmter, leads through the Blaahnvdal and along the glacier to the pass
between the Lauedalslinder and the snow-clad Utorliorn (5184 ft.), and
descends the Lauedal, passing the Lauedals-Sictre , to Rurslad, on the
Kaldvatn and Ejerke_road (p. 199).
The road ascending the Hornindal is so steep, that walkers pro-
gress almost as fast as carriages. It passes several substantial gaards,
the Denefos, and the entrance to the Hjortdal. The valley expands
farther up, and is flanked with snow-clad mountains. On the right
rises the huge Gulekop ; in front of it, the Seeljesalerhorn (2210 ft.),
below which opens the Knudsdal; then, the Mulsvorhorn (2700 ft.) ;
to the left, the Brakeyy (4320 ft.) and Lilledalseyg.
9 Kil. (pay for 11, but not in the reverse {iivection) IndrelLiu-
gen or Hougen, a poor station. Hans A. Kaftevold is a good guide.
Farther on we liave a view, up a side-valley to the left, of
the almost inaccessible-looking llonmidfdsmkkni (J)()i^> i't. ; ascent
to Molde. TIELI.ESYI.T. Map,p.l82.—2n.n. 195
from Haugeu 10 his., driving practicable for21irs. ; extensive view).
We tlien cross the boundary of tlie Nordrc liergenhns-Amt and
liomsdals-Aint.
G Kil. Kjdsladli. Travellers on their way N. do not usually
stop here ; those from the N. change horses here and pass Indre
Haugen without stopping. The new road avoids the hill to the left
on whicli the station formerly lay.
Grand scenery again. To the left opens the glacier-valley of
Kjelslad; to the right the Rerhiisdnl. with the pointed Rerhusnibhu.
We descend to Tronshnl (1130 ft.), a little to the N. of which, by
Tryyyestdd, the Kebbedal (p. 197) opens to the left. Fine view of
the I'ibelstadnibba.
The road descends on the left bank of the Sundals-FAo^ the val-
ley of which soon contracts to a deep ravine. To the left opens the
MulskreddaL. Splendid view of the Sunelvsfjord and its mountains.
The road crosses the stream, which enters the lake in the form of
a waterfall, passes the church of Sunelven, and reaches —
1;? Kil. Hellesylt (*6Vand Hotel, Trygyestad's Hotel, both under
the same management, U. l'/2-2, R. or S. i^/^-i^/), D.l-l^/^, pens.
4-5'/-2 kr. ; Kngl. Cli. Serv. in July & Aug.), grandly situated at the
head of the *Sunelvsfjord, an arm of the Storfjord, on which large
steamers from Aalesund ply 5-6 times weekly. Rowing-boat from
Hellesylt to Marok iu 8-4 hrs. ('21 Kil.). — Vehicles usually await
the arrival of the steamers.
Ku(i>i Hei.i.ksvlt to the Stuvnsvanu. We drive up the valley to
the S.E., passiii',' the fine waterfalls Dene/os and Freitefos , to Bjerdal
and (1'2 Kil.) Vold-Saeter (quarters). For the rest of the route over the
Flofjeld (4 hrs.) a guide was f<irmerly necessary, who also mwed pas-
sengers over (he Nesievand and the StegoUrand ; now, however, there is
a new mad aloii^ the bank. We next pass the Aaiujelivand and descend
hy the 0vre Flo-Sailei' (i|uartcrs if need be) and the Nedre FloSwler to
Flo. on the Strynsvand (p. Ib9).
Fine view of Hellesylt and the falls of the Sundals-Elv (see
above) as we steam down the fjord. On tlie E. side of the fjord
towers the Noklceneb (4373 ft.). On the W. side we observe the
gaard of Ljeen, whence a road winds up the Ljaenlxikker (about
'2000 ft.) and crosses the Ljefjdd to Slyngstad (p. 201).
Opposite is the mouth of the *'''Geiranger Fjord, into which
we steer, notable for its picturesque cliffs and its numerous water-
falls. On the right, the Nokkeneb; on the slope to the left, the gaard
of Madvik. Farther on, to the right, are the gaards of Syllevik
and (above) lUombery and the mountains Lutdnlsnibbd (4835 ft.)
and Gjerkelandsegytn (4940 ft.); the Grautliorn (4425 ft.) rises on
the left. The fjord now contracts. On the N. side are seen the
Kn'iD^lhiafoii^c or Syi^ Seslre ('seven sisters'), falling over a per-
pendicular cliff into the fjord. Seven falls may be counted at the
very top, but four only are seen below. High up on the slope near
them is the gaard h'nin^flnii. Ab(uotheni rises the Ojeilfjeldlind
13»
196 R.26.-Maps,pp.l82,190. MAROK. From the Nordfjord
(5145 ft.), and farther on is the Gjeitfondegy (4800 ft.). From a
gorge on the S. bank emerges the Skaygeflaafos or Ojeitfbs, adjoin-
ing -which is the gaard oi Skaggeflaa (1640 ft.). An immense num-
ber of small waterfalls descend from the cliffs in early summer,
but many of them dry up in August. Some of them shower down in
spray, betraying their existence only by the streak of white foam
on the fjord below; others leap from overhanging cliffs in veil-like
form. When the tops of the cliflFs are clouded, the waterfalls seem
to come direct from the sky. Curious profiles on the rocks to the
right; above these, the Prakestol (pulpit). Opposite, to the left, is
the Gausdalsfos. Also to the left is the gaard oWrande, overtopped
by iheLaushorn (4911ft. ). As we nearMarok, we obtain a superb view
of the basin of Geiranger, dominated on the left by the Saathorn
(5835 ft.). High up on the right are the snow-fields of the Flydals-
horn. At the head of the fjord, about 20 Kil. from Hellesylt, lies —
Marok fA/ero/c, MtEraa/f^. — Hotels. 'Union Hotel, on tlie height above
the church and the foaming Storfos, ^/i M. from the pier; "Hotkl Geihangkk,
'/i M. from the pier, with view of the fj(jr(l. These two are under tlie
same management and have similar charges (R. 2, B. or S. I'/s, D- 2V4 kr );
carriages from the Union Hotel meet the steamers (the footpath to the left
of the church is shorter than the road). — Mekok's Inn, close to the pier,
plain, R., B., or S. 1 kr. each. — Hotel Udsigten (Bellevue), comfortable
on the road to Grotlid, 3 M. from the fjord and 1000 ft. above the sea,
conspicuous over the church-spire as the steamer approaches, R. IV2 kr.,
B. 1 kr. 20 0., D. 2, S. 1, pens. 5 kr. — English Church Service in July
and August.
Vehicles await the steamboat: to the Flydalsjuv and back (2 hrs.),
1 pers. 2, 2 pers. 3 kr. ; caleschvogn , 2-3 pers. 5, 4 pers. 6 kr. ; to the
Djupvashytie (17 Kil.), 1 pers. 4 kr. 42, 2 pers. 6 kr. 63 0. tthere and back
double fare) ; caleschvogn there and back, 2 pers. 2372, 3 pers. 26, 4 pers.
31 Vl' kr. ; caleschvogn to Hjelle i Stryn (p. 189) in two days, 55, 65 or 70 kr.
Marok is a small hamlet nestling round the head of the fjord
on an old moraine, commanded by a small church. Above it opens
the basin of Geiranger, through which ascends the road to Grotlid
(pp. 193-191). This is a good centre for excursions.
Those who start from Mamk in passing between Geiranger and Stryu
miss the striking view on the approach from the E. (p. 193) ; on the other hand
the ascending traveller sees the waterfalls of Ihe Geiranger basin to better
advantage, while in descending the Videdal farther on he has before him
the splendid panorama of the snow-mountains on the Strynsvand. As far as
the Djupvashytie (p. 192) driving takes as long as walking (4 brs.). Thence
to Grotlid is a drive of 2V2-3 hrs. Those who wish to reach Skaare or
Hjelle in one day (comp. p. 190) must start betimes from Marok and turn
to the right at the bifurcation 3 Kil. short of Grotlid (see p. 191).
Travellers who arrive and go on by steamer content themselves with
the *ExcuKsioN to tue Fltdalsdjuv (p. 193), a walk (there and back) of
21/2 hrs. The road should be followed both coming and going. Below
the Union Hotel is the Storfos, in which all the tributaries of the river
unite. Above the second bridge of the road ('Gjerde-Bro'), on this side
of the stone '100 m. over Havef, a rough path diverges to the left to the
Kleiva/os, a fall of the Vesteraas-Elv. There are other waterfalls at the
third bridge ('Flaa-Bro'). Beyond the fourth bridge ('Kope-Bro'), and
V2 M. beyond the stone '200 m. over Havef, a guide-post points to tlie
left towards the Slorsieterfos (a steep ascent of ^/t hr.). — The road
ascends, cros.'iing the 'lIole-Br<r at the Mok/os, to the Ilolel Udsiykii,
which commands the finest view of the Geiranger valley. A little lartlier
to Molde. NORANGDAL. Map,p.l82. — 26.R. 197
un, beyond the stone '300 m. over Havet', a finger-post indicates the way
to the right to FlydaUdjuvet (p. 193).
The "Vesteraasdal , the X. approach to the Geiranger hasin, hetween
the Laushorn and the Grindalshorn, also deserves a visit. We follow the
ahove-mentioned path passing the Stortaterfos to (1V2-2 hrs. from Marok)
the Stor-f^aeter (2132 ff.). Splendid view. — We may then ascend the valley
to the Vetteraci!s-ScB>er and mount the Kaldhuthakker to the S. end of a
small lake, from which we may visit the Vestevaasbras to the left. Then
either to the E. and down the Sletdnl to the Kaldhusdal, or to the K. down
the Berdal to the Hei-daUvand (1618 ft.) and Relling i Norddal (p. 200).
From the gaard oi Grande (p. 196) a steep hridle-path ascends (V*-! hr.)
the EidsdaUfJeld, widening into a road beyond the top of the hill, and
leading past the gaard ol Jndre Eide and the Eidsvand, abounding in fish,
to Ytkedal (p. 200; 12 Kil. from Indre Eide): a splendid walk of about
6 hrs., with grand views looking back on the Geiranger Fjord, and fine
mountain-scenery. (Guide unnecessary.)
Another fine e.xcursion is that to Skaggeflaa (p. 196; ca. 5 hrs.). We
row in 1 hr. to the Skaggejlaaneistet, whence the path ascends. Splendid
view at the top.
c. From Hellesylt through the Norangdal and by the
J«rundfjord to Aalesund.
A C'areiage Road (fast stations) runs from Hellesylt to (25 Kil., in about
3 hrs.) 0ie : skyds for 1 or 2 pers. 4 kr. 25 or 6 kr. 38 0. •, caleschvogn for 2, 3,
or 4 pers. 12, 14. or 16 kr. Steamer from .^ie to Aalesund four times a week
in 3^/4-4 hrs, (passengers for Seholt change boats at Hundeidvig, p. 200). —
From jB^ie to Aalsund via Sfeb0-0rstenvik in I-IV2 day; see pp. 198, 203.
This route leads throiigh the district of -Sandmare, which contains
some of the most varied scenery on the W. coast of Korway. The grand-
est parts are the Norangdal^ the A'orangs/jord, and the Jernndfjord.
From Hellesylt up to Tryggestad, a drive of 8/4 hr., see p. 195.
The road to 0ie turns to the N.W. and ascends the Nebbedal,
a pleasant green valley sprinkled with hirches. On the right rises
the Tryggestadnakken, separated by the Satredal from the abrupt
Fibelstadnib, which forms the background of the valley the whole
way. To the left is the lotig drawn-out Kvitegg, with a glacier em-
bedili'd among its peaks. To the N. rise the Smerskrcdtindcr
(p. 198).
10 Kil. Fibelstad-Haugen (121;) ft.; Hotel Norangsdal, plain
but very fair, a little to the left of the road), finely situated amid
the highest summits of the Kvitegg and the Fibelstadnib, on the
watershed between the Sunelvsfjord and the Jerundfjord, is a good
centre for mountaineering.
The ascent of the "Kvitegg (5590 ft.; 4-5 hrs ) is one of the finest in
S0ndm0re. Guides, Jon Klok and P. A. LHlebee, the schoolmaster (3-5 kr.).
From Fibelstad-Hacgen to Bjerke, on the J0rundfjord, a splendid
walk of about 5 hrs. (with guide): to the W. up the valley to the Kvit-
elvedalstkar on the N.W. side of the Kvitegg; then past the little Kvit-
eleedalsvand on its N. side, and down its brook to the ~ Tussevand (1970ft.),
where we get a view of the wild Hornindalsrokken (p. 194) ; round the
N. side of the lake, down the Tvise-Elv through a series of gorges, and
past the Tusse/os to Bjerke (p. 199).
At Fibelstad-Haugen begins the *Norangdal, one of the grand-
est and wildest valleys in Norway and well adapted for walking
(to 0ie 2'/2 hrs.). The now road follows the K. side of the valley.
198 h.2G. — Map.p.W-J. 0iK. Frum the NonI fjord
In front of us the valley appears closed by the SmOTskredtind, which
with its peaks and the glafier between them recalls the Wetterhorn
at Grindelwald. Several small lakes are passed. The brook sometimes
disappears under the rocks and the avalanche-snow, which lies in
the valley throughout the summer. The poor sseters are built into
ihe rocks for shelter from avalanches and stone-falls. In about 1 hr.
we come in sight of the curious peak of Slogen (see below), which
seems to alter its appearam^e as we proceed. The valley contracts.
The scenery is wildest by the perpendicular black cliff of *Staven
(over 4900ft.), at the fourth lake. The road crosses to the left bank.
The valley expands. The above-mentioned peaks re-appear.
To tlie left is the Kjeipen., the prolongation of Staven. The road
keeps to the left side of the valley, passing in front of the slopes of
the Smerskredtinder (p2iO ft.), ascended by Mr. Slingsby in 1884.
To the left are the Mkldagshom (4353ft.) and the Blaahorn; in the
distance, the Saksa (p. 199).
In about 2hrs. after leaving Fibelstad-Haugen we reach <S'fei//-
stad, the highest gaard in the valley, lying at the foot of the Mid-
dagshorn. The road crosses to the right bank. From the bridge we
have a retrospect of the sharply cut ridge of the Skruven (5285 ft.),
with large snow-fields on its flanks. The fjord now comes into view.
It is a walk of 1/4 hr. from the bridge to the Union Hotel.
14Kil. (pay for lb) 0ie(*Union Hotel, R. li/o-^, B. I1/2, 1>- 2-
274, S. 11/0 kr.; Phenix, unpretending, 1/3 M. from the steamboat-
pier), at the E. end of the Nor angs fjord, occupies a beautiful and
sheltered situation and is a good centre for excursions. On both
sides of the valley and fjord rise imposing mountains : Slogen
(summit not visible from 0ie itself) and the Middagshorn ; then
(right) the Kloksegg and (left) the Blaahorn (4500 ft.). On the E.
the valley is closed by the Skruven (see above), with its snow-fields.
To the W., the Saksa, with its singular notch from top to bottom ;
beyond the Jerundfjord are the jagged Gratdalstinder, near the
Bonddal (p. 204).
The ascent of *Slogen (5210 ft.) is strongly recommended to robust
mountaineers ffrom 0ie 4 hrs., with guide; Jon Kick and Peder Haugen).
The view, called by Mr. Slingsby one of the noblest in Europe, embraces
the whole of the Alpine district ofS0ndm0re and is often preferred to the
Jolunheim views (p. 146).
A grand but fatiguing route leads from Skylstad (see above) between
Slogen and the Smerskredtinder over the pass of Skyhtadhrekken (2592 ft.).
and either to the N.E. to Stranden (p. 201), or to the N.W. by the gaard
of Brunstad in the Velledal down to Aure (p. 202).
On the days when there is no steamer, we may go on by water
skyds to (10 Kil.) Scebe (p. 190) and thence by land-skyds (a magnificent
drive) to (24 Kil.) 0rsteni-ik (p. 203), whence a steamer plies four times
weekly to Aalesund.
The **Norangsfjord is an arm of the Jerundfjord and resembles
it in its Alpine character. On leaving 0ie we see the Elgenaafos
on the left; then the gaards of Ste7in(fs in an exposed situation
under the Staalhcrg (4138 ft.); and on the right, at the mouth of the
to Molde. JHIiUNDFJOIJD. Mup.'p. WJ. — -J6 .R. 1^)9
f/rfcerf«<, the gaards of Urke (steamboat-station). In the (Ustaiicc
rise tlie snow-clad peaks of the Vellesaterhorn (p. 202). To the W.,
above Urke, towers the Sdksn (3445 ft.), which with the Staalbcrg
forms the entrance to the Norangs^ord. Behind ns is the Slogen.
The **Je'ruiidfjord, which the steamer now enters, differs iu
character from the otlier fjords. Instead of being a deep cutting in
the great Norwegian plateati, with nearly upright sides, it is flanked
with picturesque ranges and peaks, some of them remarkably bold
and pointed, others isolated between deep gaps or notches ('Skard'),
and clad with snow and glaciers near their summits. Viewed by
evening-light the effect is singularly beautiful.
The S. or upper part of the Jerundfjord is visited by the steamer
thrice a week. On its W. bank is the gaard of Skaare, with the
'Fos' of that name, at the foot of the Skaaretinder ; and on its E.
bank, to the S. of the Jagta (5240 ft.), lies the gaard of Viddal,
a steamboat-station. At the S. end of the narrowing fjord, high
above the water, lies Bjerke (Hotel Sendmere), the terminus of the
steamer. Above it rise the Bjerkehorn (4445 ft.) and the Tusscnut
(4203 ft.). Near it is the Tussefos (p. 197), descending from the
Tussevand in three stages. Jacob Bjerke is a good guide.
A road (slow stations) leads from Bjerke up the Sjaustaddal, by lUiv-
slacl and Rueid^ to (15 Kil.) Kaldvatn (p. 194) and (8 Kil.) Farde (quarlera
at D. Maaii^s), on the idstefjord, the S.E. arm of the Voldenfjord. (To
Volden, 18 Kil., by boat; p. 203.) From E0r.$tad (see above) the Siorhcrn
(5180 ft.) may be ascended in 6 hrs.
On other days the steamer, on leaving the Norangsfjord, steers
towards the W, bank of the Jerundfjord, over which towers the
jagged Slorhorn (see above), adjoined by the Skaaretinder. It then
passes the Jlustadnas (on the bank a little S. of which is Raa-
mandsgjelet, a cavern in the rock Raamand) and reache.s —
Siebe (skyds-station, good quarters), with the church oi Jerund-
fjord , in a small bay, at the mouth of the well-tilled Bonddal
(p. 204), the background of which is formed by the Velrhaldtn
(p. 204). On the N. tower the Mienddlstindtr and the GretdaUlinder.
A grand view is enjoyed of the S. arm of the lake, with the snow-
fields of the Kvitegg and Tussenut (see above) in the background.
The scenery of the N. part of the Jcrund fjord is seen at its
grandest as we approach Store StandaL (steamboat-station), at the
mouth of the valley of that name (p. 203), on the N. side of which
rise the glacier- studded A'oif/astmder (4470 ft.), while to the S.
are the vast snow-flelds of the SelvkalLen. To the N. towers the
Standalshorn. Another grand view is obtained of the LiUe Standal,
with the serrated snow-clad ridge of the Romedalshorn. resembling
the Aiguilles of Mt. Blanc. In the background are tlie Tre Seslre.
— Comp. the Map, p. 204.
On the v.. bank of the fjord, opposite Standal, rises the impos-
ing Molaupsfjeld, named after the gaard Molaup at its N. base.
Near It is the cavern Truldgjel, where a phenomenon similar to
200 R.26. — Maps,pp.l82,204. SYLTE. From the Nord fjord
that on the Lysefjord has been observed (p. 94). Farther down
the same side is the Sleitefjeld. On the W. side rises the cloven
Jenshorn (4715 ft.), with a glacier in the depression, and on the
same side is the station of Saltere. The steamer then crosses the
mouth of the Jarundfjord, affording in clear weather a final survey
of the fjord in its entire length (36 Kil.), extending to the snow-
flelds of the Skaaretinder, and calls at Hundtidvig. where it connects
twice a week with the boats to Seholt and Marok (comp. p. 202).
We now steer due W., past the large island of Sule, to Paste
and follow the route described at p. 202 to Aalesund (8^/4-4 hrs.
from 0ie).
d. From Marok and Hellesylt vi&, Sjaholt to Aalesund or Molde,
Stkamer from Marok to HjehoH in 4'/2 lirs. (fare 5 kr. C'Of<.); I0 Aale-
sund in G'/s-ll hrs. (fare 8kr. 70 0.). — From SJ0hoU to (26 Kil.) Veslnoes
Road with fast stations. From Vestnses to Molde Steamer in 1 hr. (fare
2 kr. ; see p. 206).
Marok (Oeiranger Fjord), see p. 196. The steamer returns from
Marok to the Sunelvsfjord, generally calling again at Hellesylt be-
fore steering towards the N. Of the huge mountains flanking the
fjord the chief are the Aakerncesfjeld (5043 ft.) on the W., projecting
far into the fjord, and the Nonsfjeld and Snushorn on the E. On
the E. side are several gaards and a few waterfalls.
From the Sunelvsfjord, the entrance to which is marked by the
Oksncps on the W. and the Skrenak on the E., most of the steamers
turn to the E. into the Norddalsfjord, the innermost arm of the
Storfjord (p. 202). On the N. bank lie the gaards of Li and
Overaa. On the S. bank is the rock called St. Olafs Snushorn.
The lirst station (2 hrs. from Hellesylt) is —
Ytredal, at the mouth of the valley of that name. (Route to the
Geiranger Fjord, see p. 197.) The next station is Relling, with the
Norddalskirke, whence the wild Torvleisa (5995 ft.), a grand point
of view, may be ascended in 5 hrs.
Sylte (Ounnar Orenning setter's Inn, good; Deving), with the
church of Muri, lies on the N. bank. A curious vein of light
quartz in a rock here is called St. Olafs Slange or Syltormen. To
the E. rises the Heggurdalstind.
Fkom Stlte ovek the Stegafjeld to the Romsdal, an interesting
route of l'/2 day, or 1 day by driving to Langdal. The road ascends the
old moraine of Langhrelhen. At the top of the hill is a cross in memory
of St. Olaf, who in 1028 fled from Sylte to Lesje in the Gudbrandsdal
(p. xlvii). The road then ascends the Valdai^ passing several pleasant
gaards, which attract summer-visitors from Aalesund. At Jlem, a gaard
12 Kil. from Sylte, horses and carioles may be obtained. Beyond Rem
we cross the stony chaos of Skjoersurden. At (11 Kil. farther on) the gaard
of langdal (poor quarters) a guide may be obtained (unnecessary for the
experienced). The road ends at J0vre Stel, 2 Kil. farther on. We ascend on
foot through the Meierdal, first on the left and then on the right bank
(crossing, not by the first wooden bridge, but liy a stono bridge not at
first visible from the path), to the pass of the Stegafjeld, where we get
a splendid survey of the Eomsdalshorn, the Vengetinder, the Konge, and
lo Molde. S0HOLT. Maps,pp. 190.204. — 26. R. 201
the Dronning, with the (jord in the distance to the N. Bcj'Dnd this the
path, indicated by varder, crosses the fjeld, over snow at places, crossing
bridgeless brooks and skirting several small lakes. We then turn N.E.
to the Isterdal, descend the Slegarie (a curimis zigzag path), and pass the
'■ Jsler/os, several hundred feet high, commanding a line view of the Isferdals-
fjeld to the left and the W. side of the Troldtinder (p. 209) to the right.
In about 6 hrs. from Langdal we reach the Knnd-Smter and in 1 hr. more
the Sogge-Sceter. Beyond this we may either turn to the left to (2hr8.)
Veblungsnres, or to the riyht to the gaard of Sogge and cross the bridge
to the Eomsdal road (p. 20S).
From Sylte we may also visit the "Tafjord (by rowing-boat; or, once
a week, by steamer), the easternmost bay of the Norddalsfjord, very grand,
though inferior to the Geiranger. On the left is a fine waterfall; on the
same side, farther on, is the '-Muldalsfos, to which a footpath ascends.
The upper part only is seen from the fjord. This superb fall is 500 ft.
high. The steamer turns here. We may, however, row through a strait into
a mountain-basin. A waterfall on the right rebounds from a projecting
rock, which divides it into two. In the background is the village of Ta-
fjord (11 Kil. from Sylte; poor quarters), on the hill above which, to the
right, are iron-mines owned by an English company. Lofty snow-mountains
peer over the banks on every side.
From the gaard of Mul'dal to Stuefloten in the Eomsdal, see p. 210.
— From Tafjord a bridle-path ascends slowly, through fine and at places
superb scenery, and generally .skirting the foaming torrent, to (2'/2 hrs.)
the chalet at the Kaldhus- Salter (p. 192), whence mountain-paths lead to
the Djvpvashyite (p. 192) and to Qrotlid (p. 191).
From Sylte we steer to the W. to the 'Bygd' of Linge, with its
pretty gaards, and the Liabygd. To the left, a grand view of the
Sunelvsfjord up to Hellesylt. The steamer then crosses to —
Stranden (quarters at K. Olsens, P. Ous's, and in the gaard of
Ringstad), with its church, adjoining the steamboat-station iSii/'^?"
stad, pleasantly situated at the mouth of the Strandedal.
The fjord, here sometimes called Strandefjord or Slyngsfjord,
continues beautiful. Rounding the prominent StordaUn<Ts ov Hol-
men ., the vessel steers into the small Stordalsvik, with the gaards
of Hove and Vinje, at the entrance to the pretty Stordal. Once a
week it touches at Vagsvik, whence v^e may ascend the Laupare
(4754 ft.). Opposite, a little to the W., lies Sjevik.
We now round the Gaus7i^s and (3'/2"4^ lirs. from Sylte) reach —
Sverholt, or SjehoU (^Rasmussens Hotel, a large and well-appoint-
ed new building, R. 2, B. or S. ll/o, D- ^1/4 kr.: Th. Sjeholt Enkes
Hotel; Engl. Ch. Serv. in July & Aug.), pleasantly situated at the N.
end of the 0rskogvik, on a small river which here flows into the
fjord and separates it from the church of 0rskog, at the base of the
Lifjeld (which may be ascended in II/2 hr.). To the N.E. rises
the Snaufjeld (2880 ft.), and to the S., over the Gausnaes, peer
the mountains on the opposite bank of the fjord (sec p. 202).
Road to A.m.ksund, 38 Kil. (a drive of 5-G hrs.). Stations: (13 Kil.)
Flaate or Flolc, (13 Kil.) Tiedsat, and (14 Kil.) Aalesvnd (comp. p. 202).
The steamer next touches at the small wooded Langskibse, in
a bay between the mainland and the Okseiw. The narrowest part
of this hay is crossed by the road to Aalcsiind mentioned above. We
then steer to the S. across the fjord, here for a short distance called
202 R.'J6.— Map.p. 204. AALESUND. Fruin the \ordfjurd
Nordfjord, and then Storfjord. In the wider sense the latter name
embraces the whole fjord as far as Sylte (p. "ZOO). We steer round
the Aursnces to —
Aure or Sekkelven (quarters at Marl. Vik's, the LandhaiidlerJ on
the Sekkelvsfjord., prettily situated amidst grand scenery. Steering
in, we see the Hammersattinder rising above Aure on the left; to
the right of them is the pointed Stremshorn (3240 ft.); then the
Brunstadhorn, the Gjeithorn, the VeUesceterhorn (4750 ft.), and the
Ringdalslind, some of them flecked with snow.
The fiillowing is a beautiful day's *Excursion. As Aure and tbe
other places are slow station-^, a vehicle tor the whole trip should be
engaged at Aure. From Aure we drive to the E. to (11 Kil.) SJevik (p. 201);
then S. through the Ramsladdal to the (12 Kil.) Ny-Saeter (quarters), on the
Nysatervand or Norvand (1245 ft.), whence the J0seskar (^WiQh.\ fine view)
is easily ascended. We next cross a hill to the Velledal , in which Drot-
ning/iaug, its highest gaard, is 6 Kil. from the Ny-Sseter. Magnificent view,
in descending, of the snow-mountains above mentioned. Then past the gaard
of Velle, where the valley bends to the N., to (13 Kil.) Slremmegjcerdef,
at the S. end of the S0kkelvsfjiird, whence, if preferred, a rowing-boat
may he taken to (6 Kil.) Aure.
On the W. side of the Sekkelvsfjord towers the Skopshurn
(4430 ft.). Then, on the Storfjord, come the stations of Tusvik, on
the S., and Embleim or Emblem, on the N. We next steer to the E.
of the large island of Sale and enter the narrow Vegf'und, with a
station of the same name. [Steamers voyaging in the reverse
direction proceed from Vegsund to Hundeidvig (on the S.), where they
connect twice a week with the boats of the Jerundfjord line (p. 200.)]
We then cross the Borgundfjord, whence the church mentioned on
p. 203 is visible, and. after touching at the Buholm Quay on the S.,
steam round the Aspe to the Skande Quay, in the harboiir of Aalesund.
Aalesund. — Hotels. *Schieldrop's Hotel (Sch. on the Plan, p. 204),
i/jM. from the pier, R. 1V2-3, B. I'/a, D- (2 p.m. ; coffee included) 2, S. IV2 kr. ;
Grano Hotel (PI. g), well spoken of; Skandixavie (PI. Sk.), Stor-(>aden,
farther from the harbour, R. 2-4, B. or S. IV2, D- 2 kr., well spoken of. —
Baths on the Asp0. — Post Office, Notenses- Gaden, 350 yds. beyond
Schieldrop's Hotel; Telegraph Office, Stor-Gaden. — Llotd's Agent,
Mr. L. A. Devoid.
Aalesund, a busy trading town with 11,800 inhab., lies on the
Nerve (E.) and the Aspe (W.), two islands on the outer fringe of
the 'Skjccrgaard', a favourable situation to which it owes its rapid
rise. It was only in 1824 that it came into notice as a harbour, and
only in 1848 that it became a town. Aalesund is the commercial
centre of the whole region of the Storfjord (see above), and for the
cod-flsheries of the W. -banks', particularly the famous 'Fiskeplads'
Storeggen, the yield of which is 5-6 million kr. per annum. The
harbour, which opens towards the N.W., lies between the two is-
lands and is protected by Skandsen, a peninsula of the Nerve, on
one side, and by a pier on the other. The narrowest part of this
strait, the Aalesund, from which the town takes its name> is crossed
by a bridge connecting the two parts of the town. On the Nerve
('indom Sundct') are the custom-house, the inns, etc., and on the
to Molde. 0KSTENV1K. .17<;;..p. /«:?. — I'ft. «. 203
Asper ('udoni Suiidct) are the church and the soliool. On the E.
side of the Nerve quarter is a pretty Park, with a pavilion (rfmts.)
and views of the distant peaks of Sendmere. A more extensive view
is obtained from the *Anlesundsaxla (509 ft.), 1 hr. there and hack.
We leave the park by Its rear (N.) gate and follow the well-
kept path, which skirts tlie base of the rocky hill, passes a cemetery,
and leads to (9 min.) some steps, where we ascend to the right
and follow the ravine. — A new road leads along the fjord to the S.E.
of the Nerv0 and in the direction of Seholt (p. 201), passing the
pretty villas of the Aalesund merchants and affording a fine view of
the mountains of Sendmere. A little to the S. of this road, 6 Kil.
from Aalesund, Is the church otBorymid, founded in the 11th cent.,
restored in 1869 (cariole 2, gig 3, carr. and pair 6 kr.). Near it once
lived Hrolf Gangr f 'Rolf the Ganger'), the conqueror of Normandy.
The Steamboat Tkaffic of Aalesund is considerable. The coasting
steamers of the Bergen and Trondhjem line (pp. 175, 178), and the S0ndni0re
steamers to Hellesylt and the Geiranger Fjord (p. 195), to the Jerundfjord
(p. 199), and to Molde and the Komtdal (pp. 204-206) are mentioned in other
parts of the Handbook.
From Aalesund to Kiu.'aa and Aahjem (steamboat twice a week). We
.steer past the island of //esse;/ (p. 177), round theE. extremity of the Sule^ and
enter the fiule/jord, which lies between the .Sul0 on the E. and the island
of Ilfireidkmdet on the W. On the latter, the hills of which attain a height
iif 2360 ft., are the stations of Brandal^ Hcreide^ and Liavaag. We next
strike across the Varldahfjovd to Vartdal, and steer towards the S., passing
the LiadaWiorn (3510 ft.), to the J0rstenfjord, at the head of which (3 hrs.
from Aalesund) lies —
0rstenvik (Svendsen's Hotel, comfortable; slow station), at the mouth
of the well-cultivated (frstendal or Aamdal, watered by the J0rsten-Elv.
To the N. rises the Smidehorn (4330 ft. ; easy ascent, 5-6 hrs. there and
back), commanding a fine view of the S0ndm0re Mts. Another point of
view is the Melshorn (2740 ft.; a much shorter ascent). From jB'rstenvik
to the J0rundfjord, see below.
From 0rstenvik to Volden by road (11 Kil.), a drive of I'Ahr.; the
steamer, rounding the peninsula between the 0rstenfjord and the Volden-
fjord, takes l'/4-2 hrs. — Volden (Ncess's Hotel) lies near the slow skyds-
station of Redsoet (good quarters), on the E. bank of the Voldenfjord.
Route to the J0rundfjord, see below.
Then, several small stations, beyond which, once a week, the steamer
goes on to Eidtaa on the Sevdefjord a.n& Aahjem on the Vanelvsfjord (p. 177;
5'/4-5'/2 hrs. from Volden).
The "Koads to the J^kundfjokd from ^rstenvik and from Volden
form the finest approaches to it from Aalesund. Valleys with rich vege-
tation; mountains strikingly picturesque. — From J0frstenvik the old road
leads by (10 Kil.) Vatne and through the Bnnddal (p. 204). The new
road leads through the FoUestaddal. Both roads first ascend the beauti-
ful 0rstendal, in view of a fine mountain-background, to the gaard A<iv\
(5 Kil. from 0rstcnvik), at the mouth of the "FoUestaddal. We ascend the
latter, keeping in view of the grand Kolaatfinder (p. 199), whence a glacier
dips to the E. At the gaard Kolaas (8 Kil. farther on) the Romedal diverges
to the left. From Kolaas we ascend the SlandaUeid ; at the top we get a
splendid "View of the Kolaastind behind and the peaks of the Jerrundfjord
before us. Then down the Standal to (8 Kil.) Store Standal (steamboat
station; no quarters; p. 199). Lastly, row to Sa'b0, 8 Kil.
From Volden the road crosses the lofty Klavdalseid (984 ft.), and at
the gaard Brautes'rl joins the road from f^rstenvik via Aam (sec above),
at the N. end of the W'tne-Vand, the E. bank of which it skirts.
204 Route 27. MOLDE.
13 Kil. Talne. Then uphill, and past the gaard Osvold, at the mouth
of the Bjerdal, to the pass (920 ft.), where the J0rundfjord Bits, come in
sight. Next down the Bonddal, flanked by the Veirhalden (4013 ft.) and
the Oretdalstind on. the left, and the Aavsethorn (4498 ft.) and Storhom
(4490 ft.) on the right, and past several gaards. By the gaard Htisfad, on
the Stnrliorn, high up on the right, is the ravine St. Olafsdal.
14 Kil. (pay for 19, in the reverse direction for 20) Uiae (gnod station),
'/4 hr. beyond which is the steamboat-station Smbei (p. 199). Row to 0ie
(p. 198; 10 Kil.; order boat as early as possible).
From SernoLT to Molde. — A good supply of carriages generally
meets the steamer (p. 200; fare to Vestnaes, 1 pers. 4 kr. 42,
2 pers. 6 kr. 63 ».). The road ascends the 0rskogdal, finally gaining
a moorland plateau with a small lake. The numerous huts are so-
called Loer for sheltering the hay; the long poles are to mark the
route in winter. The highest point is reached 8 Kil. from Seholt,
and 2 Kil. farther on, beyond the boundary between l'>ergens-Stift
and Trondhjems-Stift, is the tourist-hut of 0rskogsfjeldet (coffee,
'brus'). We then descend the Skorgedal.
15 Kil. Ellingsgaard (675 ft.). To the right is the Brustind, to
the left the Ysttinder. The valley becomes less dreary. At Viken the
road reaches the picturesque Tresfjord, the W. bank of which it
skirts, passing several gaards. We cross a bridge over the mouth
of the narrow Misfjord and reach —
11 Kil. Vestnces (p. 206; 31/4 hrs.' drive from Seholt), whence
steamers ply once or twice daily to Molde and to the Romsdal.
27. Molde and the Moldefjord.
Arrival. The main pier adjoins the Hotel Alexandra, while carriafies
from the Grand Hotel meet the steamers. The fjord-steamers land not far
oir, at the Torv, and also at the Grand Hotel.
Hotels: 'Grand Hotel, finely situated at the E. end of the town, with
baths, E. 21/2-7, B. IV2, D. (2 p.m.; with coffee) 23/4, S. ii/2kr.; English
spoken. "Hotel Alexandra, at the W. end of the town, with baths, R.
11/2-5, B. 11/2, D. (wtth coffee) 2V2, S. IV2 kr. — S^strene Holm (PI. H),
good, but without view, R., B., or S. 1, D. li/2kr. ; Sofie Plath's Hotel
& Pension, Andersen's Private Hotel, both in the main street; S0Strene
Eide's Pension, to the E. of the chemists, in the direction of the Grand
Hotel. — When the hotels are full, travellers may content themselves with
a visit to the Rekneshaug and push on to Aandalsnpes (p. 207) as soon as
possible.
Sea Baths, 1/4 M. to the W. of the Hotel Alexandra (25 0., towel 7 0. ;
reserved for ladies 9-11.30 and 2-5). — Post & Telegraph Offices in the
main street (see Plan). — British Vice- Consul, Mr. P. F. Dahl. — English
Church Service in summer at the parish-church.
Steamers to Bergen and to Trondhjein , each about 11 times a week,
to Aalesund 17 times (incl. the Bergen steamers) ; to places on the Molde-
fjord, see pp. 206, 210. — Careful enquiry should be made as to the hours
and places of departure. — A small steamer named 'Bols^en' is let out
for 60 kr. per day.
Molde, a thriving little town of 1600 inhab., which dates back
to the 15th cent., is pleasantly situated on the N. bank of the
Moldefjord, at the foot of green slopes backed by higher bills.
Its trade is now insignificant, but it is a great summer-resort.
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Being sheltered from the N. and W. storms, the vegetation is
surprisingly luxuriant, though Molde is nearly 3" of latitude to
the N. of St. Petersburg. Roses abound, and some of the houses
are overgrown with honeysuckle. Mingling with the pine and the
birch are seen horse-chestnuts, limes, ashes, and cherry-trees. —
The Church contains a picture by Axel Ender, representing the
Women at the Sepulchre.
The great attraction of Molde is the noble survey it commands
of the wide expanse of the fjord and the long chain of mountains
to the S. and S.E., with their rocky peaks and snow-decked sides.
The most picturesque point of view is the *Reknesliaug ( 2G0 ft.),
a hill laid out in promenades to the N.W. of the town, to which
we may ascend from the Alexandra Hotel in ^^hv., or from the
Grand Hotel by the upper road, crossing the Molde-Elv and passing
the (ihurch, in 20 minutes. At the top is a pavilion, with a mountain
indicator. In the foreground lies the town, at the foot of green
hills, beyond which stretches the beautiful fjord, broken by the
long islands of Gjerte, Sretere, and Faar/e. Our Panorama, though
taken from a slightly higher standpoint, will serve to identify the
heights in the background.
Between the Humle Have (a pretty private garden) and the
Rekneshaug a bridle-path, indicated by a finger-post 'til Varden'
and by a second 6 min. farther on (where we turn to the right
through a white fence), ascends past a refreshment -stall with a
flagstaff to the (1 hr.) top of the *Moldeliei (1350 ft.), with a
lefuge-hut (not always open) and a huge vane. The view is more
extensive but less picturesque than that from the Rekneshaug.
About 5 min. to the W. of the hut is a stone 'varde', with benches
commanding a view of the open sea.
A charming walk may be taken along the avenue leading to
the W. from the Alexandra Hotel, past the garden of Reknes, a
liospital for consumptives. Still finer is the avenue leading to the E.
from the Grand Hotel. This passes the old Molde- Gaard (r.) and
skirts the *Fanestrand or Funneslrund, where the rich vegetation
of Molde is seen to advantage. The road is shaded with birches,
ashes, maples, larches, and other trees, and is flanked with pleasant
gaards, villas, and gardens (among which is Consul Johnson's Buen
Retiro, IV2 M. from the Grand Hotel; visitors admitted). About
1 M. farther on is the consumptive hospital of Legrovik. All the
way we enjoy a fine view, towards the S., of the fjord and the distant
mountains. Continuation of the road, see p. 210.
To the N.E. of Molde rises the Tusten (2285 ft.; 3 hrs. ; guide ad-
visable). At the bridge on the upper road, on the left bank of the Molde-
Elv (see above), is a red, white, and blue guide-post, showing the Way to the
Tusten. This jjasses the match-factory of Elvhakkm. After 5 miu. a foot-
path leads to the right, passing other guide-posts, to [}U hr.) a small house
on the right. Here we ascend to the left and then (0 min.) to the right,
over meadows mid through brushwoud. In -1 miu. more we cross to the
left bank of a brook, where a clearing alVords an open view of the Ijord.
20Q R.27.— Map,p.204. VESTN.E.S. Mnldefjord.
We then pass below a cattle-shed, where our path is joined (i'.) by a
cart-ti-ack from Fanestrand. We pass through a gate and bear to the right
(marshy at places). In 25 min. we reach the top of the first lidge. Hence
we go straight on (flnger-posts) towards the top of the Tusten, now visible
in the distance; part of the route is marshy. The path next bears to the
left, passing several peat-bogs, crosses another ridge, and reaches (20 min.)
the lower of two small lakes. Passing the E. end of this, we follow a
stony path through thin wood, and, instead of skirting the upper lake,
ascend to the right, straight towards the (I'/z hr.) summit. Very extensive
view, embracing the fjord and the mountains to the N., E., and S., and
the vast Atlantic to the W.
To THE Tkoldkikke, a day's excursion from Molde by carriage (stol-
kjwrre there and back G, 2 pers. 9 kr. ; carr. and pair 12-14 kr.). We ascend
the Aaredal, which diverges from the Fanestrand (line retrospect of the
Moldefjord from the top of the hill), and then descend through iho Malme-
(lal to the Maime/jord and the skyds-station of (20 Kil.) Julsat. We then
ascend again and farther on leave the Indrc Fneiien road to the left. At
the gaard of Varhol (5-6 Kil. from Julsat, a drive of 4 hrs. froju Molde)
we obtain a guide and torches for a visit ('2'/---'i lirs.) to the '-Troldkirke,
a cavern in a brilliautlv white vein of limestone in the Teeifjelde^ 70-80 vds.
long, 7-10 ft. wide, and 7-22 ft. high.
a. Excursion to the Bomsdal.
Steamboat from Molde (o Aandctlsnws (or Nws) in 2'/2-5 hrs. (fare
2 kr.-5 kr. 30 0.). The last part of the voyage is magnificent. — Road from
Aandalsnies to the Rvmsdal. The walk from Aaudalsn*s to (27 Kil.) Flat- ■
mark and the drive back (3 hrs.) form a pleasant day's outing. Those who
aie short of time may content themselves with a walk to Ilorgheiin (p. 209).
Instead of taking the direct steamer to AandalsnKS, we may go by
another to Alfarnces or to Lcereim. and proceed thence to Aandalsnees via
Tliorvik (comp. p. 212). — Mountain-passes between the Romsdal and (he
I'.ikisdal, see pp. 208, 214.
The vessel steers to the S., affording a fine view of the mountains,
backed, at the head of the Tresfjord, by the Laupare (p. '201), with
a huge snow-field iu the depression. In 1 hr. we reach —
Vestnees(//o(ei Festno's, V4M. from the pier, tolerable, U. li/^kr.),
on the W. side of the entrance to the Tresfjord, a deep bay set in
wooded hills and bare rocky peaks. The road to Seholt begins here
(p. 201). A steamer ascends the Trestjord, twice a week, to Viken
and Sylte (whence a road up the KcersrAmsddl leads to Vagsvik on
theStorfjord, 17 Kil. ; p. 201), and down by Dougstad and Vikebugt.
We steer to the E., past Gjermundnces, with an agricultural
school on a hill, commanding a good view of the snow-clad Ystinder.
To the left is the island of Scekken, on which lies VesUid (called at
twice weekly). Fine view up the Langfjord, with the Skaala on
its N.W. bank (p. 210). On the right, the populous Vudgestrand,
with its white church, and the station Ecestadhygd. The Blaatind
(p. 207) is not visible from the steamer. The view aliead is now
very picturesque. To the E. towers the wooded Oksen (2674 ft.);
to the right of it, in the distance, appear the furrowed Veiigetinder,
and then the Store Troldtind (with its large snow-lield), Kongen,
and Drouiiiiigen. Some of the steamers enter a small bay at tlie
foot of the Oksen and call at Nordvik, wlience a road, passing the
church of Eid, crosses to the Kiwdvenfjord (p. 211).
Mnldefjnrd. AANDALSN.flS. Afap,p.204.—27. R. 207
The view becomes grainier and grander. On the 8. bank rise
the Troldslole {^3714 ft.), chief of which is St. OLafs-Stol, with a
'Botn' enclosed by two hills. Several of the steamers next call at
Void, with its new timber church, situated at the mouth of the
fertile Maandal, backed by the Troldtind and Nonstind with their
snow-flelds.
We steer past the mouth of the *Indfjord, with its superb
mountain-backsroiind (Isterdalsfjeldene, ]>. '201); un the H this
fjord is bounded by the Skolten (3440 ft.), with a waterfall. A fine
view of the Smerhotlenfjeld (3765 ft.) is disclosed to the N., and,
to the S., of the Romsdal Mts.: the Vengetinder, the Kalskraafjeld
(p. 209), looking disproportionately small in the distance, with its
glacier, and tlie fissured Romsdalshoni. These mountains average
nearly double the height of those of Wales and Westmorland.
Veblungsnses {Romsdal Hotel, unpretending), situated at the
foot of the Sietnesfjeld (3900 ft.), to the S. of the influx of the
Raumn into the Komsdalsfjord, is now much less important as an
entrance to the Romsdal than Aandalsnses, though carriages still
meet the steamers. To the E. of the village is the church of Oryten,
an o(;tagonal timber building. Just beyond it tlie road forks : the
branch to the left, crossing a long bridge, leads to the Komsdal ;
that to the right leads past the houses of Sietna;s to a military
camp and rifle-range.
Tlie steamer passes the broad mouth of the Rauma, affording
a tine view of the Romsdal, and steers round the promontory on
its N. side (with glimpse of the Isfjord) to —
Aandalsnses. — (Ikanu-Hotkl Bkllkvuk, a large Louse on a height,
5 mill, from the pier, of the first rank, with baths anil fine views on
every side; English siioken. — Romsdai.suok>j Hotkl, nearer the pier, un-
pretending but very lair, R. I'/a, B. or S. 1'/;, U- (2-3 p.m ) 2 kr. — HoTior,
ilKLUKNA;s, on the Kouisilal road, 2 M. frcjm tlu; pier (p. 208), owned by
an lingli.fh company and recently enlarged and improved, with lawn-
tennis courts, etc., recommended for a stay of some time R. '2'/'.!, B. or
S. IV2, D- 272 kr.
Conveyances await the steamboats (Tarifl' 1) The fares on the cards
shown by the driver include the return; thus, to Horgheini (p. 21)9) and
back, cariole 5. stolkjirrie 7, carr. and-pair 19 kr.
GuiDKS. Mathias SiKjijimoen and Erik Nordhagm of Gryten (see above).
Aandalsmvs, usually called Nces or Nes, situated on the pictur-
esque, mountain-girdled Isfjord (steamer several times weekly), to
the N. of the mouth of the Rauma^ is the chief approach to the
Romsdal and well suited for a prolonged stay. The nearest height
is the Mjelviifjeld, the N.W. spur of which is also called Nasaxlen.
Farther ofl' is tlie Storhest. To the right of the Najsa\el we look up
tiie liomsdal with the Vengetinder, Roinsdalshorn, and Troldtinder,
and to the right of these into the Isterdal (p. 201) and towards the
S.ttnestjeld; to the W. rise the Troldstole (see above) and tht;
l^laatind (3900ft.); to the N. the lieights of the lilaafjeld ; to the
K., in the distance, the Ojiiratind and other Eikisdal peaks.
208 R.^7. — Map.p.W4. ROMSDAL, Moldefjord.
Excursions. To the Romsdal^ see below. — Along the road on the S.
bank of the Iffjord to (5 Kil.) <S7«n, the terminus of the Rnmsdal steamer.
On this walk, which may be curtailed if necessary, we enjoy strand views
of the Strandheia (2590 ft. 1, Bredvikhna (2S35 f(.), Storttimjen (3445 ft.), and
other mountains in the backisround of the tjord. — To the "Isterdal, as far
as the Isterfos, and up the Stiyane to the Stegafjeld (p. 201). — Row to
Thorvik (p. 212; boat-skyds; 3 hrs. there and back), and in 1 hr. ascend
a fine point of view above the Gjerssetvatu.
From Aandalsn.ks to 0veraas on the Eikisdalsvand, a walk of 7-8 hrs.,
parts of it somewhat trying, especially in wet weather. We drive by skyds
along the S. bank of the Isfjord, pass Sten (see above), and reach the E.
end of the fjord. Here we cross the Isa-Elv or Hens-Elv, on the right bank
of which (to our left) lies the church of Hen. Hence a hilly road leads
up the well-cultivated Gr/avdal, parsing the gatirds of Kavli and Unheim.
To the right we have a line view of the Vetigedal, the Vengetinder, and
(to the rijiht of the last) the Romsdalshorn. In front are the abrupt
Moaiiebba and the ^So'ternelba. The road ends (a drive of i'/4 hr. from Nte.s)
at the gaard of —
15 Kil. ([lay for 17) Grevdal, the owner of which (Ed. Gr0vdal) acts
as guide (to the Meringdals-S»tre 4-5 kr ). — As seen from Gr0vda], the
valley appears closed by the Ni/heilind (5215 ft.), with its large .snovv-lield,
and the Ojitratind (57(10 ft.), to the S.W. of it (su'umit not visilde). The
ascent of the Gjuratind, first made in 1884, requires (there and back)
9-10 hrs. and is described as difficult (especially towards the end) but
highly remunerative.
From Grfivdal we walk, crossing two bridges, to ('/2 hr.) the Grev-
dals-Sceire, where the ascent becomes steeper. The path at iirst keeps to
the left bank but crosses to the right by a small bridge after i'/4 hr. Farther
on (red and white marks) it turns to the left and climbs to the pass of
the Rendeliskar (ca. 3 hrs. from Ori^vdal). We descend over snow and
'Ur', passing to the left above the Svartevand, which is commanded by the
rocky wall of the Hesten. About 1 hr. after leaving the top of the pass
we come into view of the Eikisdalsvand, with the Gogs^re (p. 212) to the
left and the Vikesakisen (p. 213) to the right. At the Meringdali-Scetre,
I'/i hr. from the Rend^lsskar, the path becomes more distinct. 0veraas
is continually in sight. In 20 min. we cross the stream to the left, at a
point indicated by 'varder, and soon reach the landing-place of the small
boat, which is summoned by a shout of 'hoio botf from above.
J0veraas, see p. 213.
The "'Romsdal , or valley of the Rauma (p. 70), is one of the
most famous in Norway. The road from Nass descends to the right
hank of the river and (2 Kil.) unites with that from Vehlungsnaes
(p. 207 ; 3 Kil. distant). It then ascends the smiling green valley,
through park -like scenery (alders, birches, ashes), flanked with
high mountains. On an eminence to the right, 4 Kil. from Naes
and nearly surrounded hy the Rauma, is the Hotel Helgences (see
p. 207). Farther on, to the left, is the gaard of Aak, with its pretty
garden, now the residence of Mr. H. 0. Wills, a member of the
well-known tobacco-making family of Bristol. To the right, beyond
the stream, opens the Isterdal, with its peaks : on the W. side Bispen
('the Bishop') and Sestrene ('the Sisters'; 3095 ft.), and on the E.
Kongen ('the King' ; 5013 ft.). A little farther on, a road diverging
to the right leads across the Rauma to the gaard of Sogge (comp.
p. 201). On our road lie the gaards of Hole and Venge, opposite
which is the gaard Fiva, in a grove of birches. On the E. side of
the valley, scarcely visible from the road , are the picturesque
Moldefjord. ROMSDAL. Map,p.2m. — -27.E. 209
Vengelinder (5960 U.), adjoining which and dominating the land-
scape towers the huge *Romsdalsliorn (5100 ft.), usually known
as Hornet.
The Ascent of tuk Komsdalshoen (one day), lirst made in 1827, is
not very difficult, though rather dangerous, and it is impossible after snow.
We ascend the Vengedal (here practicable for driving) , and climb to the
peak from the W. side. — The ascent of the highest Vesgeiind , first
accomplished by Mr. Wm. C. Slingsby in 1881, is not quite so difficult.
It takes 8-10 hrs. from the Venge-Soeter (there and back). The view is
said to be very fine. — The 3Ij0lnik, which Mr. Slingsby (1S85) describes
as one of the steepe.st miiuntain.s in Europe, is extremely difficult (14-15 hrs.).
It is best scaled from Indre Dalen (good quarters) in the Vengedal fp. 208),
a drive nf 3 hrs. from Nfes.
On the W. side of the valley rise the *Troldtinder ('witch-pin-
nacles'; 6010 ft.). Part of the crest is known as 'Brudefelget', or
the bridal train. The highest peak may he ascended by the small
glacier visible between Nses and A ak (difficult; ascended by C. Hall
in 1882). The road leads close by the foaming Raunia. At one
place, much exposed to avalanches in winter, the road is carried
through the broad bed of the river by means of an embankment.
14 Kil. Horgheim ('235 ft.; plain but fair station) lies on an
ancient moraine. The finest scenery of the Romsdal ends here; the
valley is wider, its floor marshy. The slopes are strewn with the
remains of avalanches.
We pass the gaards oi Mirebe and Treene, and, on the opposite
side of the valley, Redninyen, Alnas, and litmmem. Below Rem-
mem (right) is a waterfall, and near the gaard of Mowje (left) is the
beautiful Mongefos, descending from the Mongegjura (4230 ft.).
.\bove this, not visible from the road, rises the KaUkrnafjeld (5895
ft.), ascended from Flatmark. The siiles of the valley are here
2000-3000 It. high. Splendid view of the Troldtinder and the Sem-
ie/j?id( 5770 ft.) behind us. The road and the Rauma next thread their
way through a chaos of rocks formed by a tremendous landslip. Be-
yond the church of Kor^, not visible from the road, we reach —
12 Kil. Flatmark (station, very fair, D. 2kr.), in a fertile and
smiling part of the valley. Opposite rises Skiriailen (3745 ft.).
Scenery still fine, though less grand. On each side are water-
falls, shorn of their might in dry seasons : on the left the Slygge-
fondfos, Grdvdefos, Skogefos; on the right the Dentefos. To the
S., above Ormeim, rises the Middagshoug. The Rauma is here
dammed up so as to form a kind of lake. The road now ascends
rapidly. To the right is the *V(Ermr)fos, leaping nearly 1000 ft.
from the VV. side, majestic after rain and spring-thaws. Best view
from a rocky knoll opposite the fall, on the right bank of the Rauma.
11 Kil. Ormeim [Station, good; view of the Vaermofos from the
back-windows) is beautifully situated high above the Rauma. To
the S., the Alterhei, with its peak Storhcetten (r)940ft. ; ascent past
the Vaermofos in 4 hrs. ; two-thirds ridable; horse 4, guide 4 kr.).
From Ormeim to Keitan on the Eikisdalsvand. see p. 214.
Baedeker's Korway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 14
210 R.-J7. — Map,p.l>0d. STUEFLOTEN. Moldefjurd.
Excursionists to the Itomsdal from Veblungsnaes or Aandalsnaes
usually turn at Ormeim or even at Flatmark, but the upper part of
the valley is also very line. About 4 Kil. above Ormeim we come to
a finger-post indicating the way to the *Slettafos. We alight, cross
the bridge above the fall, and ascend to the right by a rough path
to a spot below overhanging rocks, where we have a fine view of the
fall and hear its roar. The rocky sides of the gully have been worn
by the water into deep cauldrons ('Jaettegryder' ; comp. p. 294).
The road runs high above the Rauma, which, often lost to view,
receives several tributaries, chief of which is the Ulvaa on the
right, the discharge of the Vtvedalsvand. We ascend the once
dreaded Bjemeklev ('bears' cliff') in windings.
10 Kil. (pay for 11) Stuefloten (2050 ft; ^Station, R. 11/9-2,
B. or S. 11/2) D.2kr.). Fine view from the height of Toppen (2 hrs.).
From .Stuefloten a in(i\intiiin-i)atb ascends along the Bevra, passes the
high-lying gaard oi Bjorlien, the three Beivervand Lakes, and the Oraver-
vand, and leads to Finsai and the £ikisdalsvand (p. 213; 10 hrs., with guide).
To TUB NoHDDALsFJoKD (p. 20U), towards the W. : first by a road up the
Ulvaa to the Tunge-Smter (quarters), at the Vj. end of the Ulvedalsvand;
then across the fjeld and down the MuhUds-Elv to the gaard Muldal (quar-
ters), situated high atiove the Tafjord (p. 201).
The shortest route from the Eomsdal to Jotiinheim leads from Mel-
inen^ the next skyds-station beyond Stuefloten, via the Ny-Sxler to Skeaker
(R0jshjem) in 2 days; comp. p. 157.
Road through the Oudbrandsdal, see pp. 68-71. As far as Dom-
aas it is monotonous and tiring.
b. Excursion to the Eikisdal.
' Road (fast stations) or Steamer (thrice weekly; in 5V4-6V4 hrs.) to
Neste, at the entrance of the Eikisdal. The quarters at the skyds-stations,
with the exception of Eidsvaag, are rather poor. We either go by road
and return by steamer, or the reverse. Three days should be allowed.
We begin with the land-route: — 1st Day, to Eidsvaag. 2nd Day, walk
and row to Neste; walk or drive to J0veraas; steam in the little 'Eikis-
dalen' (fare 1 kr. ; extra-trips, 1-5 pers. 10 kr., 6-10 pers. 15 kr., there and
back) in 2 hrs., or row (with two rowers 5 kr. 64, with three rowers 7 kr.
20 0. ; return-fare double) in 3-31/2 hrs. up the Bikisdalsvand to Reitan-
Utigaard, and back to Nuste. 3rd Day, back to Blolde by steamer. — If
we begin with the steamer, we go on the first day to Reitan- Utigaard ;
spend the second night at Eidsvaag; and return on the third day to Molde.
If the hours of the Sundal steamer (comp. pp. 211, 216) happen to suit,
we may, instead of returning to Molde, go on to EidP0ren and thence to
Sundals0ren or Christianssund. — To vcalkers may be recommended the
pass to Orevdal and the Romsdalsfjord, as described at p. 208.
The Land Route from Molds to NesTB (67 Kil.) is attractive
only on the Fanestrand (p. 205) and between Tjelde and Eidsvaag,
Beyond the hospital oi Legrovik (p. 205) the road bears somewhat in-
land. To the right is the substantial gaard of Aare, where the road
to the Aaredal (p. 206) diverges to the left. Farther on are the
gaard of Rebcek and the large new church and parsonage af Boise.
9 Kil. Strande. We skirt the Fanefjord, bounded on the S. by
the lofty Skaala (3590 ft. ; so called from the 'skaala' or saucer-like
Moldefjord. EIDSVAAG. Map,p.20d. — 27.R. 211
depression on its N. side), and pass the gaards of Lenscet, Mjelve,
and Hjelset (a drive of 21/4 hrs. from Molde). At the last the route
to Battensfjordseren diverges to the N. (see p. 216).
13 Kil. Eide (tolerable quarters). — The fjord ends at the church
of Kleve. The road follows the N. side of the valley.
9 Kil. Istad. A little beyond, the road forks: to the left to
Angvik (p. 219), to the right to the Eikisdal. The latter road leads
through the Osmark, a monotonous vFooded district, overlooked by
the grand Skaala on the right. Crossing the Stor-Elo, vre pass the
Osvand and the gaard of Gusiaas, and farther on the Skjorsatervand,
with its gaard, and the Satervand. Then a steep descent, with a
beautiful view of the Langfjord and the snow-peaks to the S.
13 Kil. Tjelde, on the Langfjord, whence we may row to Neste
(16 Kil., in 2'/2hrs.). — The road leads E., pretty high above the
Langfjord, and then descends, in full view of the Skjorta and other
mountains to the S. We pass several substantial gaards.
9 Kil. Eidsvaag (^Hotel Sverdrup, very fair, 6 min. from the
landing-place) lies at the E. end of the fjord, here shallow and at
low tide covered with sea-weed. Eoat-skyds from Eidsvaag to
(14 Kil.) Neste with two rowers 3 kr. 92, with three 5 kr. 60 e.
A road, ascending beyond the charch of Eidsvaag and the under-
mentioned bridge, and aflfording a fine retrospect of the whole of the
Langfjord, leads across the Tilteveid to (8 Kil.; I1/2 hr.) Eids0ren on the
Sundal.i/Jord (p. 217), where there is a modest inn near the landing-place of
the steamer. Boat-skyds to (23 Kil.) Sundalseren (p. 217) with two rowers
6kr.44,with three9kr. 200.; to (llKil.) Koksvik (p.217)3kr. 92, 5kr. 60 er.
About 5/2 ^^- to the E. of the Hot. Sverdrup our road reaches
the Eidsvaagkirke and crosses a river entering the E. end of the
Langfjord. It then skirts the E. bank of the fjord , and passes
the parsonage of (5 Kil.) Ncesset, where the novelist Bjernson spent
part of his youth. It then becomes very hilly, with pretty views
of the Eirisfjord on the right and the Skjorta on the left (p. 212).
About 4 Kil. from Nssset it passes the two gaards of Ytre and
Indre Bogge (steamboat-station), and at (3 Kil.) Bredvik it ends.
It is better to take boat-skyds from Ytre Bogge to (6 Kil.) Neste.
14 Kil. (from Eidsvaag) Nesle (p. 212).
The Steamboat from Moldk to N^stb steers to the E., between
the Fanestrand (p. 205) on the left and the island of Boise, with its
high -lying church at the E. end, on the right. Then past the
promontory Dvergsnces, sometimes calling at Revik ; to the S., round
Semesje; and to the E. again. On the right are the islands of
Scpkken (p. 206) and Vee ('holy island'), with its church. Stations:
Havnevik and Selsnces.
We next steer across the mouth of the Langfjord, past the oddly
shaped islet Hcst/iohnen (S.E. of Ve0), in view of the noble Roms-
dal Mts., to Ottesiad and Alfarnces (poor quarters at the skyds-station ),
one on each side of the entrance to the Redvenfjord, up which a
steamer plies to Larcim or Lerheim (Hotel Laereim), at the S. end.
14*
212 Rr27. — Map,p.'204. N0STE. Moldefjord.
Fkom ALKAKNyiis TO NiV.s IN THE RoMSDAL. The fine but somewhat
hilly road, skirting the R«rdvenfjord, leads through a beautiful region,
well cultivated and studded with gaards. Opposite we see the church of
Eid (p. 206) and the Oksen (p. 206j. In the distance rise the Troldstole
(p. 207). At the gaard of Lareim (p. 211; 9 Kil. from Alfarnfcs) the road
forks to Nordvik to the right, and to Thorvik to the left. The latter
leads us up the LcrrcmskMvene, where we suddenly get a striking view of
{\ie''Oiers(!eteatii, a lake with a wooded island, in a crater-like basin; of
the Skjolteu (p. 207); to the left of it the sharp- pointed Vengetinder
(p. 207); to the right the Ssvtnajsfjeld, the Isterfjelde, and the Indfjord
Mts. To Thorvik '/2 hr. more. The road descends on the N. side of the
valley, ascends again thmugh a narrow pass, and, leaving the hill of
KltntgeiHKS to the right, leads through pine-woods to —
14 Kil. Thorvik, on the Romidalsljord. The station, for boats as well
as horses, lies high above the fjord, but we may drive down to the water.
From Thorvik by boat to (4 Kil.) Veblurtfisna;!. ^ or to (15 Kil.) Ann-
dalsnccs, see p. 207.
The steamer next enters the Langfjord, 30 Kil. long, 3 Kil.
broad, on the N. hank of which towers the Skaala (p. 210; the
'skaala' not visible from this side). The S. shore, which we skirt,
is mostly well cultivated, but monotonous. Stations : Midtet (also
connected with Altarnscs by road) and Mj/fcieftos/rtrf (good station
for 'boat-skyds'), with the church of Vistdal, on a little bay, from
which the Vistdal runs inland. On the bank are several boat-
houses (Nest); in the background, high old coast-lines and the snow-
clad Vistdalsfjclde. The steamer passes the entrance of the Eiris-
fjord and calls at Eidsvang (p. 211), at the E. end of the Langfjord.
The steamer now turns back for a short distance, rounds the
Nces, and enters the *Eirisfjord. To the left, in the distance, is the
Storglanebba. Before us rises the imposing Skjorta (5620 ft.) or
Hvitkua ('white cow'). To the right, farther on, are the abrupt
Gogsere and (finally) , in the background , the Sjedela and the
Meringdalsnsebba (p. 213). The steamer calls at Bogge fp. 21 1), on
the E. bank, and soon after reaches —
N«ste or Nauste, also called Eirisfjordseren {Eikisdal Hotel, very
fair, English spoken; Torjul's Inn, plain, with the skyds-station),
to the W. of the mouth of the EikisdaU-Elv . The white villa to the
E. is occupied by an Englishman.
From Ngrste a fjeld-pass, diverging to the right at the Eirisfjord-Kirke
(see below), descends through the Hornedal, between the Hesthaug (3625 ft.)
on the N. and the Uglehavg on the S., to Orevdal (p. 208; 8-9 hrs.).
The 0veraas road (suitable for walking; II/2 hr.) ascends the
fertile valley watered by the Eikisdals-Elv , usually called the
Siradal, and flanked with high mountains. To the left is the Skjorta,
soon concealed by the Oogsere or Gokseira (4325 ft.); to the right,
in the background, the Meringdalsnaebba and the Sjerdela (p. 213).
We pass (1/2 lir.) the Eirisfjord-Kirke oiSira-Kirke, lying a little to
the left of the route. At a school-house, a little beyond the church,
our road forks, both branches leading to the Eikisdalsvand. The
one to the right emerges by the gaard of Aasen. The 0veraas road
to the left , which we follow , crosses the broad river and runs up
and down along its right bank, at the base of the Gogsere. The top
Moldefjord. EIKISDAL. Map, p. 204. —27. R. 213
of the old moraine, separating the Eikisdalsvand from the Siradal
and broken by tlio river only, commands a line view of the valley
and the fjord beliind iis. On the S. side of the moraine, 1 hr.
beyond the church, are the gaards of —
8 Kil. 0veraas (fast station, with good quarters, R., B., or S.
80 e., D. 1 kr.J, V4 M. from the N. end of the Eikisdalsvand.
FKOM0VERAAS TO GR0VDAL, sce p. 203. We TOW across the outlet of
the lake, fnllow the sater-path on the left bank of the stream, then cross
the latter and ascend past Ihe Meringdals-Sasters, following the red and
white marks (guide desirable).
Fkom 0VEKAAS TO THE J0fKSENDAL (p. 217), 7-8 hrs., wlth gulde. We
first follow the N.E. bank of the lake for some distance, then ascend a
sseter path to the E. to the Ljosehctn- Sater , near the Ljosehotnvand. The
route, now much steeper, traverses two snow-fields and then descends
rapidly to Branstad, where it joins the 0ksendal road.
The '-'Eikisdalsvand (197 ft. ^ steamer and small boats, see
p. 210) tills a narrow rocky cleft about 18 Kil. in length. On both
sides to\\er snowy and ice-clad mountains enlivened with water-
falls. Even in the beginning of August snow-patches stretch al-
most to the lake. At places, however, the slopes are clothed with
pines and other trees, amongst which bears still lurk. Hazel-nuts
abound, and are sold as 'Romsdalsnedder'. The lake is generally
frozen over in winter, but the ice is seldom strong enough for
driving on. Avalanches are frequent, and stones sometimes fall
from the hills. Towards noon the lake is usually like a mirror,
reflecting Fjeld and Fos in a curious double picture. The few
dwellings on its banks are constantly menaced by the rocks above.
On leaving 0veraas, we see at first only a small part of the lake.
To the left are the precipices of the Gogsere and the Aashammer. To
the right, the gaard of Meringdal, commanded by the Meringdals-
ncthha and the Sjedela (5010 ft."). The mountains soon recede,
and the lake is in full view. High up on the left is the Fletatind
(5425 ft.). To the right the Nyhoitlnd (p. 203) peers above the
Sjedela. To the left, the waterfall of Tongjem; then, the two
gaards of Viken (whence a path leads to the Lilledal, p. 217),
with the Vikesakisen (5970 ft.) above. On the W. side is the
/EvelshrcE, above which is the imposing peak of the Gjuratind
(p. 208). Above the gaard of Hotm gleam the snow-fields of the
Hoemfjeld, commanded by the i/oem<i?ic/. Farther on, to the right,
is the Rangaatind (5225 ft.) , to the left the Aagottind (5215 ft.)
and the Bjerktind (4355 ft.).
In front of the Kangaatind, at the head of the lake, to the
right, we now see the *Maradalsfos, a superb waterfall of the Mar-
dela , descending from an upland dale some 250U ft. above the
sea, leaping 650ft. down a sheer cliff, rebounding in spray from
the rock below , and re-appearing in two arms to form another
great fall lower down. A finer view of the fall is obtained by
landing, but the lower fall only is accessible (fatiguing ascent of
214 R.2R. — Map,p.204. EIKISDAL.
3/4 hr. ; from Reitan and back about 3 lirs.). Farther to the N. is
another and apparently larger fall, leaping into the same basin.
The lake now trends to the S.E., and the gaard of Reitan comes
in sight. Above the gaard is a beautiful veil-like •waterfall, with
the Berfjeld (4065 ft.) beyond.
The gaard of Beitan or Reiten (good quarters at Hulvor Reitan' s
Inn) lies about 6 min. from the landing-place of Eikisdal, near
the mouth of the Aura-Elv. About 6 min. farther up are the gaards
of Utigaard (with 1*2 beds; young Utigaard is reputed a good
guide) and Opigaard (fair quarters at both). — A pretty walk up
the valley brings us in 20 min. to the Eikisdal Chapel (351 ft.),
where the pastor of Naesset (p. 211) holds service four times in
summer. Farther on are some mills (below us, to the left), driven
by a small stream that springs direct from the earth. Near the
bridge over the Aura is a salmon-fishery.
The mad leads farther up the valley, passing many pretty gaards, to
Finsaet (11 Kil. from Reitan; fair accommodation). Path thence (guide
desirable, '/2-I kr.) to (1 hr.) the Aiiresttipe or Aurstaupa, the falls of the
Aura, issuing frum the Aur.njfi. Hence we may ascend the Aura (with
guide), following the 'varder', to the tourist-hut on the Aursj0 (p. 217).
From Reitan we may ascend by a diflicult fjeld-path, passing to the
W. of Ihe Evelsfonn, the Rangaatinder, the Hoemsfjeld, and the Gjuratind,
to Orevdal (p. 208; 10-11 hrs.).
Fkom Reitan to Okmeim, in the Romsdal (p. 209), 8-10 lira, (guide neces-
sary). The ascent to the fjeld is rather steep, especially for the lirst
3 hrs., following a brook and passing a waterfall opposite Reitan. We
liass between the Gjeitsiden and the Berfjeld and reach Ihe Sandgrovshar.
At the top of the fjeld we traverse snow-fields, with the Sandgvovhegda to
the left and the Sandgrovvande to the right. I>escent easier. Ko sa'ter
until within '/■! hr. of Ormeim (see p. 2U6).
28. From Molde to Trondhjem.
Most travellers go from Molde to Trondhjem by steamer either direct
or via Battenfjords0ren (p. 216), the latter route avoiding the e.xposed
passage between Bud and Christianssund (see below). The land-routes
(pp. 21G, 219), especially the S. end of the Sundalsfjord and the Sundal
(p. 217), ofVer many attractions; but those who have seen the Romsdal
and the Nordfjord must not expect to find here a heightening of scenic
interest.
a. Direct Sea Route.
29 S.M._ Steamboat daily in about 12 hrs. (13 kr. 60, 8 kr. 50 0.). Pass-
engers subject to sea-sickness should start in the evening in order to get
over the passage to Christianssund in the night. — The figures below show
the distances from Molde to Christianssund, thence to Beian, and thence
to Trondhjem (comp. p. vi).
Molde, see p. 204. — Soon after starting we steer to the N. into
the Julsund. The islands of Otters and Oorsten are passed on the
left; the Juiajien (1810 ft.), on a headland, and later the pyramidal
Gjendemsfjeld (2080 ft.) on the right. Leaving the Moefyr to the
left, the vessel rounds the promontory of Bud or Bod, connected
with Molde by a local steamer and by a road, and steers out to sea,
unprotected by islands until it reaches Christianssund. Beyond the
CHRISTIANSSUND. 28. Route. 215
liodfjeld we soon sight the headland of Stemshesten (2230 ft.), the
S. boundary of the Nordmere, and a little later the lofty Tustere
(p. 216). To the left lies the islet of Fuylen ('Bird Island'), with
a beacon ; on the right are several gaards at the base of Stemshesten
(^Stemme, Hanas, etc.). Fine view of the snow-mountains of the
Romsdal. We next pass the lights oiKvidholmsfyr and Hestskjcersfyr
(a white building ) on the right, and then steer between the Kirke-
land (right) and the Inland (left) to —
12 S.M. Christianssund. — Gkajjd Hotel, in thy Torv, R. IV2-2V2,
B. 1, D. 2 kr., well siuikeii of: Lossins Hotel, near the pier.
British Vice-Consul, Mr. Gram Parelius, Kirkelandet. — Lloyd's Agent,
Mr. Karl Bang.
Christianssund, the capital of the district of JVorcZjnOTe, a rapidly
growing town and important tish-mart, was founded in 1742 and
contains 12,000 inhabitants. It lies on four islands, which enclose
the harbour: Kirkeldndet, to the S.W., with the chief church and
the hotels ; Jnlandet to the E. ; Nordlandet to the N.E., with a church
and line woods; ai\A Skorpen to the W., with the bare drying-
places for the 'klipflsk', which are packed in 'voger' of 36 lbs. and
exported chiefly to Spain. Steam-launches ply between the Islands.
From the harbour we may ascend the street to the market-place,
which is adorned with a statue of President Christie (p. 119 ; a native
of Christianssund). We then proceed to the right to the Parish
Church, with its pretty promenades. We next follow Langveien to
the N. and outside the town reach the Vaardetaarn, a good point of
view, 1 M. from the harbour. About S'^ M. farther on is the large
basin of the town water-works, to which all the rain-water that falls
on the rocky ridge is led. — Off Christianssund, 15 Kil. to the
N.W., is the island of Grip, with a fishing population of 200.
Local Steamers iibound. Thus, to the Sundal, see p. 216; to Suren-
dal-Todal, see p. 219. To Molde and the Romsdal two or three times a week.
Beyond Christianssund the coast is sheltered by islands, but the
larger vessels at first keep to the open sea. To the left in the distance
is the lighthouse of Grip (see above). To the right, the islands Tustere
(2920 ft.) and Stahhen (2960 ft.), between which are seen the
distant snow-mountains of the Sundal and the Eikisdal. We now
steer within the islands. To the left, the Ede ; beyond it, the low
island of Smelen. To the right, the Ertvaage. Scenery now mono-
tonous. Farther on, to the left, through the Ramsefjord, we look
out to the open sea. We next steer into the strait of Trondhjems-
leden, between the mainland and the large island Hitteren, a
haunt of deer, with the station of Havnen.
The only station at which all the large steamers call is • —
15 S.M. Beian, at the entrance to the Trondhjems-Fjord, whence
travellers may go northwards without touching at Trondhjeni (see
p. 233). The district passed (0rlandet) is fairly cultivated.
7 S.M. Trondhjem, see p. 219.
216 Route 28. BATTENFJORDS0REN. From Molde
b. By Land to Battenfjords^ren and thence by Sea
vi& Christianssund.
Tlie fine skyds-drive to Baltenfjordseren (38 Kil. ) takes about 5V2 hrs.
(7 kr., two pers. 10 kr., 'caleschvogn' for 2 pers. 16, 3 pers 18, 4 pers. 20 kr. ;
bargaining desirable). It should be begun in good time, so that none of
the scenery may be missed. The hotel in Battenfjordsifren is good and
moderate, but those who prefer it may arrange to go at once on board
the Steamer (six times weekly), which reaches Battenfjords0ren at 9 p.m.
and leaves it at 4 a.m. The steamers are small, but the staterooms (50 0.)
and meals (B. or S. l'/;, !>• 2 kr.) are good. The passage to Trondhjem
takes 13 hrs. (fare 10 kr. 60 0., lor two members of a family 16 kr.).
From Molde \\iStrande to (19 Kil.) Hjelset, see pp. 210, 211. The
new road ascends past several gaards, at points affording fine views.
To the right is a road leading to Eide (p. 211). We then cross the
high-lying plateau of the Rauheia. Beyond a small lake (about
l'/4hr.'8 drive from Hjelset) the road begins its circuitous descent.
To the left lies the Furscet-Sceter. Pleasant view of the well-tilled
valley. After a drive of I1/4 hr. more we reach —
19 Kil. Battenfjordseren (Hot. Kong Oscar, very fair), prettily
situated at the S. end of the Battenfjord or Botnfjord.
The voyage across the Battenfjord to Christianssund (p. 215) takes
11/2^1. At the mouth of the fjord, to the W., lies the large gaard
of Gimncfs. Farther on we pass between the islands of Frede and
Avere; on the latter rises the Meknokken (1690 ft.). At Christians-
sund we lie to for lY2lir., which time we may utilize, in fine
weather, by a walk to the Vaardetaarn (p. 215).
The rest of the voyage also avoids the open sea either wholly or
in part. In the former case the steamer steers to the S. of the large
islands of Tustere, Stabben, andiErtvaage (p. 216), calling a.t Laurvik
(Aure) and Vighals (Vikan). In the latter case we keep to the N. of
these islands, following the route of the large steamers and touching
at Ed0, Magere, Boresund, and Storfosen. On the last is a large
dairy-farm (180 cows), which supplies Christianssund with milk.
— Beian, where the two routes unite, and the entrance to the Trond-
hjem Fjord, see p. 215. The voyage from Christianssund to Trond-
hjem (p. 219) takes IO-IOV2 hrs.
c. By Land through the Suudal.
This route is most conveniently accomplished in combination with the
Kikisdal (p. 210). In this case we either, on the return from Eidsvaag
(p. 211), proceed to the E. to Eidseren and take the Sundal steamer
("Restaurant on board; thrice weekly; 21/4 hrs.) or boat-sky ds (ca. 4 hrs.) to
Sundalseren; or we pass over the mountains from jBfveraas (p. 213} to
0ksendalen, and cross thence to Swidalsaren by steamer or boat-skyds (ca.
3hrs. ; in all 1 day). — From Sundalseren a road with fast stations leads
via Aune to (135 Kil.) Steren, on the Trondhjem railway (p. 77; 2 days).
The Sundal steamer starts from Christianssund {^.1\b). The
first part of the route is uninteresting. Stations : Kristvik, Stensvig,
Kvarncps, Gimnas (see above); then, beyond the mouth of the Batten-
fjord, Torvig, Berge,/Sfdegaard, Hocm, Flemmen, &nd Sandvtg (Gjul),
to Trondhjem. SUNDAL. Map, p, 204. — 28. R. 217
wliore the Sundalsfjord begins. We toucli at Koksvik i Thingvold
.iiul Angvik (p. 219), and reach (6 hrs. from Christianssund) —
Eidsflfren (skyds-statioii; three beds), wliere tho road from Eids-
vaag ends (p. '211). Boat-skyds to (17 Kil.) 0ksendalen with two
rowers 4 kr. 7G, with three B kr.SOc. ; to (23 Kil.) Suiidalseren 6 kr.
44, 9 kr. 20 0. ; to (14 Kil.) Koksvik (p. 219) 3 kr. 92, 5 kr. 60 0.
Reyoiid Fjeseide and Jordal we enjoy a freer *View of the S.
part of the fjord, witli its girdle of snow-capped mountains. In the
first place, however, the steamer steers into the bay of —
0ksendalen or 0ksendals0ren ( Vinms Hotel) , at the mouth of
the valley of the same name, with two high mountains in the back-
ground. Through the valley runs a road to (14 Kil.) Branstad (p. 213 ;
fjeld-path to the Eikisdalsvand). Boat-skyds from 0ksendalen to
(1 1 Kil.) Sundalseren with two rowers 3 kr. 8, with three 4 kr. 40<*.
The next station, on the E. bank of the t^ord, is OpdeL or Oj)dal,
the starting-point for a visit to the Inderdal.
From I)pd0l (slow station) a road ascends through the Virumdal to
DaUbe and (14 Kil.) NeJradal or Nerdal (quarters ; fjeld-route to Todals0rcn,
see p. 219). We then walk up the "Inderdal to the tourist-station Inderdal
(bed 75, B. 40, D. 80, S. 50 0.), where guides for several fjeld-ascents are
to be had. The finest points are the Skarfjeld (6070 it.), the pointed
DaUttaarn (4900 ft.; first ascended in 18S9), and behind it the Tauritfjeld
(G103 ft.). — From Inderdal across the fjeld to Stor/ale in the Sundal
(p. 218), 5-6 hrs.
The Sundalsfjord increases in graude\ir as we proceed. To the left
rise the snow-capped Evelsfonnhei (5042 ft.) and the pointed Hofs-
n(')6a (6145 ft.), with the Fonnenihha to its left; in front towers
tho KdUcen ((3180 ft.), separating the Sundal from the LiUedal.
Sundalseren (/nn, with skyds-station, very fair) lies at the mouth
of the Sitndals-Elv, dominated on the N. by the Hofsnibba.
From Sundal80ren we row in 1/2 hr. to the gaard of Trcedal, at the
entrance of the "LiUedal, through which a road leads up to (9 Kil.) the
gaard of Lilledalen (quarters at t)le Dalen's). Thence we ascend (a small
part of the way very steep) to (5 hrs.) the Holbu-Saeter, on the Holbuvand
(2585 ft.), where the hut of the Christianssund Tourist Society offers food
and four beds. A marked path leads hence past the Osvand (2730 It.), Lang-
vcind (2740 ft.), Sandvand (2755 ft. ; with the Sandvaslaagen-Sxler)-, and Torhu-
vand (2815 ft.), and over the ridge, to the N. end of the Aursje (3490 ft.;
6 M. long), on the W. side of which are the three Alf-Saters and a summer
boarding-house. Skirting the E. bank, we reach, in 5 hrs. from the Uolbu-
vand. the large and well-equipped Aursja-Hytte or Lesje-Hytte (16 beds).
In 2V2lirs. more we arrive at the Gauibu-Sivter or Oaidsje, whence we descend,
passing the Ylensvand and at places skirtin;; the Jora. the outlet of these
lakes, to (2V'.! hrs.) Holaaker. in the Gudbrandsdal (p. 70).
At places the *Sundal almost rivals the Romsdal in grandeur.
The first part is the finest. The views present themselves to best
advantage on the descent from the Dovrefjeld (R. 10).
The road ascends on the right bank of the river, passing the
Sundalskirke, and then crosses an old moraine, overgrown with
birches. To the left are the picturesque Vinjefosset\ forme<l by the
outlet of the Evelsfonn. We cross this brook and then the Sundals-
Elv. In the left rear we see the gaard of Elvershei, belonging to an
218 Route 28. SDNDAL. From Molde
Englislimaii ; to the right is the snow-flecked and glacier-seamed
Kaldfonna (6060 ft.), which is also conspicuous farther on. The
road ascends along an old moraine to a higher zone of the valley,
crosses the stream issuing from the OredaL (right), and leads to the
right close under the steep slope of the Uoaasnibba. At four of the
most dangerous points here the traveller is warned by his skydsgut
to drive quickly on account of the avalanches and stone-falls ('Snee-
skred! Kjer til!'). Beyond the gaard of Tyfte the road returns to the
right bank. On and beyond the bridge we enjoy a fine retrospect of
the snow-flelds of the Evelsfonn (p. 217). In II/2 br. after leaving
Sundalseren we reach the gaard of —
19 Kil. Fale or Storfale (fair quarters, R., B., & S. 3 kr.), on a
hill to the left. Waterfalls descend on both sides of the valley.
The Inderdal (p. 217) may be reacheil hence iu 5-6 hrs. (with guide).
The serrated mountain that becomes more and more conspicuous
as we advance is the Romfogskjarringen. We ascend a rocky barrier,
shutting off the lower part of the valley; retrospect of the Evelsfonn.
The road crosses the Sundals-Elv and passes the small red Rom-
foys-Kirke. To the left, near the gaard of Musgjerd, are the long
Olheimfos and the serrated ridge culminating in the Skretind
(3850 ft.). The road recrosses the river by the Otheim-Bro (500 ft.),
passes the gaards of Oravem, and skirts the steep S. slope of the
Skretind. Opposite opens the Gredal. — After 2'/2 hrs. we reach —
17 Kil. Gjera (good quarters). — A few kilometres farther on,
near the boundary of the Romsdals-Stift and the S. Trondhjems-
Stift, the road becomes so steep, that most travellers will prefer to
walk (comp. p. xxii). To the right is the deep gorge of the iSundals-
Elv, or Driva, as it is called in the upper part of its course. The
good road ends, and is replaced by a very hilly ancient road.
11 Kil. (pay for 14) Sliper (1806 ft.; poor quarters). — The next
part of tlie road, under the Sliperhovd (3436 ft.), is also pleasanter
for walking than for driving. On the E. side of the Sliperhovd opens
the valley of the Vindela, an affluent of the Driva, which the road
crosses at a saw-mill. On the left, visible at a long distance, is the
church of Lenset, commanded by the Vindalskinn (4746 ft.). In the
vicinity are numerous gaards. Farther on the road passes the pros-
perous gaard Gravaune, skirts the S. spur of the Vindalskinn, and
runs through low woods. We soon come in sight of the long valleys
and heights of the Dovrefjeld. The road crosses the Festa, which
forms falls both above and below the bridge (2015 ft.). To the left,
behind us, rises the Horn (5225 ft.), with a large snow-fleld.
15 Kil. (pay for 21, in the reverse direction for 18) Aalbu ri740ft.;
very fair quarters), at the S. base of the Derrermhovd (2870 ft.), is
reached by walkers in 4 hrs. from Sliper, driving taking almost as long.
A broad road, diverging to the S. at Aalbu, crosses the Driva, skirts
(at places a mere footpath) the N. and E. sides of the Svarthovd (3125 ft.),
crosses the Driva again, and reaches (ca. 2 hrs.) the Dovrefjeld road (p. 73)
about halfway between Aune and Rise.
to Trondjhem. 0RKEDAI>.S0EEN. 1>.S. Roiite. 219
The road, still hilly, passes the Opdals-Kirk€.(2010 ft.), a timber
structure of the 17th rent, with a conspicuous spire, situated at the
foot of the 0rsnipen (4520 ft.).
11 Kil. Aune (p. 73), on the great Dovrefjeld road, about
13/4 hr.'s drive from Aalbu.
d. By Land vi§, Angvik and 0rkedal.
This route traverses the Nordmerc^ a district of which the attractions
are highly rated by the Norwegians. It is conveniently combined with a
visit to the Eikisdalsvand by going on from Eidseren (comp. p. 216) by
steamer or boat-skyds to Koksmk i Thingvold, whence 0rkedalS0ren is
reached in two days.
From Molde to (31 Kil.) Islad^ see pp. 210, 211. Theu, the slow
stations of (11 Kil.) Heggeim and (11 Kil.) Angvik, a station of the
Sundal steamer (p. 216). Hence by boat-skyds across the Sundals
fjord to —
6 Kil. Koksvik i Thingvold (good and moderate quarters), another
station of the Sundal steamer. • — We then take 'land-skyds' to
(7 Kil.) Belsaet, and 'boat-skyds' to (7 Kil.) Stangvik (good quar-
ters), a station of the Christianssund and Todal steamer. Then drive
to (15 Kil.) Aasen, near the steamboat-station of Surendalseren.
The steamer from Christianssund plies to Surendals0ren and on to
Siirendal and TodaUeren thrice a week. Fjeld-route from Todals/2(ren to
Nedredal, 5 hrs. (guide 4 kr.), see p. 217.
From Aasen we drive to (10 Kil.) Haandstad (74 ft.) and
(15 Kil.) Kvammen. In the Foldal, which opens to the S. between
Kvammen and the church of Rindalen, at a point about 10 hrs. from
either of these places, the Trondhjem Tourist Club has built a chalet,
to serve as headquarters for excursions in the line distrirt of Trold-
heimen. — 17 Kil. Rindalen (470 ft.), with a church (quarters at
Strand's, the baker). — 17 Kil. Oarberg i Meldalen, the first place in
SendreTrondhjems-Stift. — 19 Kil. Aarlivold (good quarters, p. 73).
12 Kil. Bak i ffrkedalen (fair quarters). From Bak we may
either drive to (8 Kil.) 0rkedals«rren (Riuns Inn) and take the
steamer thence for Trondhjem (2'/2 hrs.; six times weekly); or we
may go on by road to (15 Kil., pay for 19) Eli, (10 Kil.) Saltncss-
sanden, and (8 Kil.) Esp or Heimdal, a station on the Christiania
and Trondhjem railway (p. 78).
29. Trondhjem and its Fjord.
Arrival. The Railway Station lies to theN. of the town, by the harbour.
The large Steamers are berthed at the W. quay of the Nedre Elvehavn.
Carriages, hotel-iimnibuses, and porters ('Bybud') with hand-carts ('Triller')
await the trains and tlie steamers. — Bergenske and Noideufjeldske Steam-
boat Office (PI. 1'2), KJ^bmands-Gaden 52, near the Brat/ar-Bro.
Hotels. -Britannia (P. A. Clausen), Dronningcns-Gaden, a large atone
house with hot-air heating, electric light, garden, and baths, of the first
rank, with corresponding charges, E. 2-10, B. I-IV4, T>. (2.30 p.m.) 3'/^ kr.;
Angi.etekre (E. 0. Thane), Nordre-Gaden, cor. of Carl-Johans-Gaden,
also with electric light and baths, R. 3-6, B. 2-2'/2, !>■ 3-3'/-., S. 2-2i/2 kr. —
Gkanu Hotel, corner of Kranibod-Gaden and OJaf-i'rygvasons-Gadeu, R.
220 Route 29. TRONDHJEM. Practical Notes.
from 2, B. iy-2, D. 2i/2, S. 2kr. ; Scandinavie, Krambod-Gaden 14, at the
liarbour, nearlv opposite the Grand Hotel, unpretending; but comfortable,
11. l'/4-3, B. 11/4, D. 2, S. 11/2 kr. — ,ytrems Private Hotel, Nordre Gaden 24;
Fru Matzoiot Pension, Munke-Gadeu 17, by the market, R. I'/a-S'/a kr,,
B. 70 **., D. 1 kr., S. 80 0. — FJeldsater Tvrist- Hotel (I1/2 hr.'s drive frum
Trondbjem, 1 pers. 3, 2 pei-s. 5 kr., can-, and pair 10-12 kr.), with hot-air
heating and baths, R. 3, B. 1, D. 2Vv!, S. I'/z kr.
Cafes-Kestaurants: "Frimurerloge (p. 222), Kongens-Gaden, to the E. of
the Frue-Kirke; City Cafi, at the Hotel Scandinavie (see above); Britannia
Cafi, in the hotel of that name. — Confectioners: Erichsen, Vor-Frue-
Gaden, behind the Frue-Kirke; Holm, Nordre-Gaden 4, opposite the poat-
office. ■ — Tivoli (formerly HJorten), in the suburb of Ihlen, with concerts
(adm. 23 5O0.), D. 2, S. IV2 kr., well spoken of.
Cabs in the Torv: per drive within the town proper and the suburbs
of Baklandet, Ihlen, and Elgesaeterbro, for 1, 2, 3, 4 persons, 40, 60, 80 0.,
or 1 kr., outside the town 70 0., 1 kr., 1 kr. 20, 1 kr. 40 0.; per hour 1 kr.
20, 1 kr. 50, 1 kr. 80, or 2 kr. 10 0. Carr. and pair one-half more. Night
fares (10-8) 00 per cent higher. Luggage up to 65 lbs. free (130 lbs. in two-
horse cabs).
Electric Tramways (every 6min ; fare IO0.): from Lademoen, on the
E. (p. 2M), via the Bakke-Bro and Kongens-Oaden, to the suburb of Ihlen, on
the W. (Tivoli).
TouristOffices. T. Bennett og Senner, Olaf-Trygvasons-Gaden 16; F. Beyer
(E. Meller), Dronningens-Gaden 16.
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. 7) in Nordre Gaden, adjoining the
Fruekirke (PI. 2).
Banks (open till 1 p.m. only). NorgesBank, corner of Kongens-Gaden and
KJ0bmands-Gaden; Privatbank, S0ndre Gaden 14; Nordenfjeldske Credit-
Bank, corner of Dronningens-Gaden and S0ndre Gaden ; it. H. Lundgren's
Enke, at the Torv ; and others. Money may also be exchanged at Mr. R. F.
KJeldsberg^s, corner of Strand-Gaden and S0ndre Gaden.
English Church Service in the Hospitals-Kirke (P1.5), Kongens-Gaden
(Sun. 11.45 am., 5 p.m.).
British Vice-Consul, Mr. F. Kjeldsherg (see above). — United States
Commercial Agent, Mr. Claus Berg. — Lloyd's Agents, Messrs. H.&F. Bachke.
Baths. Warm, vapour, and Turkish at Dronningens-Gaden la. — Sea
Baths (for gentlemen 10-2.30 and 6-8 o'clock) to the W. of the railway
station, 20 0. (ferry 5 0.).
Shops. Wine, preserved meats, cognac, etc., at Stoppenbrink''s, Olaf-
Trygvasons-Gaden 7, and Lvndgren's, Torvet 26. — Furs, Antiquities, etc.,
at Joh. Bruun^s, Olaf-Trygvasons-Gaden 37, one of the best shops of the
kind in Norway ; eider-down 20-24 kr. per lb. ; eider-down quilts 80-200 kr. ;
bear-skins 120-450 kr., according to size, colour, etc. — Carved wood,
'Tolleknive', embroideries, etc., at the depot oiiht Norsk Httsjlids Venner
('Friends of Norw. Domestic Industry'), Nordre Gaden 14. — Ornaments,
silver ware in the early-Norwegian style, small well-executed copies of the
figures in the cathedral, etc., at H. Meller's, Dronningens-Gaden 16, corner
of the Nordre Gaden; fancy goods (chased and repousse work) also at
Sinejda's, Nordre Gaden 14. — Booksellers (photographs, maps, etc.):
A. Brun, Kongens-Gaden, corner of Nordre Gaden, opposite the post-
office; A. Holbcek Eriksen, Olaf-Trygvasons-Gaden 17; A. Stabel, cor. of
Nordre Gaden and Dronningens-Gaden; H. Moe, Munke-Gaden 44.
Trondhjem, or Throndhjem (pron. Tronjem), G eima.n Drontheim,
■with 38,000 inhab., situated on a peninsula formed by the Trond-
hjems-Fjord and the river Nid, is the northernmost of the larger
European towns, being situated in 63° 30' N. lat., the same latitude
as the S. coast of Iceland. In summer the climate is like that of
the S. of England, in winter like that of Dresden. The river is
rarely frozen over, the fjord nev^r. Hence the rich vegetation. Many
of the townspeople are wealthy and they have long been noted
History. TRONDHJEM. 29. Route. 221
for their kindly disposition. The district is called Trendelagen, its
inhabitants Trender. To the E., S., and S.W. rise picturesque
heights: E. the Blcesevoldbakke, terminating in the spur of
Ladehammeren ; S. and S.W. the Stenbjerg.
HiSTORr. Down to the middle of the I6th cent, the name of the
town was A'idaros (-mouth of the river Nid' ; Aa, Aar, signifying 'river',
and Os, 'estuary') or Kaupanger i Tmndhjem ('merchant-town in Trond-
hjem'j. Like Upsala in Sweden, Trondhjem, the 'strength and heart
of the country', is the cradle of the kingdom of Norway , and it was
here, on Brat0ren, that the Norwegian kings were elected and crowned.
Here, too, met the famous 0retMng. So early as 996 Olaf Trygvason
founded a palace, and a church which he dedicated to St. Clement. St.
Olaf, who is regarded as the founder of the town (1016), revived the
plans of Olaf Trygvason, which had been neglected after his death, and
after the death of 'the saint' at the battle of Stiklestad (1030) a new im-
pulse was given to building enterprise. For his remains were brought
to Trondhjem and buried there, but afterwards transferred to a reliquary
and placed on the high-altar of St. Clemenfs Church, where they attracted
hosts of pilgrims. The St. Olaf cult gradually made Trondhjem one of
the largest and richest towns in Norway, and gave rise to the erection of
the cathedral and no fewer than fourteen other churches and five mon-
asteries. At a later period terrible havoc was caused by civil wars, pest-
ilence . sieges, and fires; and the pilgrimages, so profitable to the town,
were put an end to by the Reformation. The reliquary of the saint was
removed by sacrilegious hands from the altar in the octagon of the cath-
edral-choir, and his remains were buried in some unknown spot: and
most of the churches and monasteries were swept away. In 1796 the
population numbered 7500, in 1815 not above 10,000, in 1835 about 12,900,
and in 1875 it reached 22,500.
The Streets are widely built (100-120 ft.) in order to diminish
the danger of fire, and generally intersect each other at right
angles. Most of the houses are of timber. The streets running
from N. to S. command views of the beautiful fjord with the island
of Muukholm. The chief are, beginning on the E. side, parallel
with the river, Kjebmands-Gaden, the large warehouses in which
are supported by piles sunk in the river; then Sendre Gaden,
Nordre Gaden, Munke-G aden, and Prindsens-Gaden. Parallel with
the harbour, beginning on the N., are Fjord-Gaden, Strand
(now Olaf-Trygvnsons) Gaden, Dronningens- Gaden, Kongens-
Gaden, Vestre (now Erling Skakkes) Gaden, and 0stre (now Bispe^
Gaden.
In the centre of the town is the Mabket Place (Torvet), where
Munke-Gaden and Kongens-Gaden cross. In the former, a little
to the N., is the Stiftsgaard (PI. 11\ the residence of the 'Stifts-
amtmand' (president or governor of the province), used as a royal
palace on the occasion of coronation festivities. In Kongens-
Gaden is the Fruekirke. Beyond it is the 'Park', embellished with
a small bronze statue of the famous Admiral Tordenskjold, born in
Trondhjem in 1691 (by Bissen). Opposite are the handsome new
Masonic Lodge {^Frimurerloge ; cafe'-restaurant, see p. 220) and the
Savings Bank, which latter also contains the ^unst/breniny (entrance
from Apothekerveiteii ; Sun., 11.30-2, free; Wed., 12-2, 2o e.), and
the Fisheries Museum (entrance from S0ndre-Gadeu ; Mon., Wed.,
222 Route 29.
TRONDHJEM.
Cathedral.
&Frid., 10-1 o'clock). — At Dronningens-Gaden 10 is the Norden-
fjeld Museum of Industrial Art [open free daily 12-5, Sun. 12-2).
Munke-Gaden, in -wliicli the new red building of the Technical
Academy is conspicuous to the left, ends on the S. opposite the N.
transept of the old cathedral. The entrance for visitors is in the
chapter-house (K on the Plan), to the S. of the choir.
The *Cathedral, in plan and in execution the grandest church
in Scandinavia, was founded by King Olaf Kyrre over the tomb of
St. Oia/" (comp. p. 221), and considerably enlarged after the erection
of Trondhjem into an archbishopric in 1151. Eystein (1161-88),
the third archbishop, who in consequence of a quarrel with King
Sverre (p. 1) fled to England and remained there three years,
Ground Plan of the Cathedral: Romanesque parts black, Gothic
parts shaded.
afterwards returned and built the present transept on the site of
the former nave (see Ground Plan C), with a tower in the centre,
and the *Chapter House (PI. K), both in the late-Romanesque style
under English influence. To these Eystein's successor added the
*Choir (Pl.B), terminating in an exquisite octagonal apse (PI. A),
which covered the revered relics of St. Olaf, the chief treasure
of the church. We find here developed, with the aid of favourable
material (bluish saponite or soapstone, Norwegian 'klajbersten'
from quarries to the E. of Trondhjem, and marble from the quarries
of Almenningen, p. 233), all the decorative splendour of early Gothic,
mingled with Romanesque features, with traces of elaborate class-
ical treatment and indications of exuberant imagination. During
a fourth building period, 1248-1300, was added the grand Nave
(Pl.D), also in the Gothic style, but with stronger leanings towards
English models. The cathedral has been repeatedly injured by Are,
in 1328 so seriously that the greater part of the choir had to be rebuilt.
In 1432 it was struck by lightning. In 1531 a terrible fire destroyed
Cathtdral. TRONDHJEM. 2,9. Route. 228
both the cathedral and tlie rest of the town. The adoption of the
ReforiiiatioTi in 1537 caused the work of restoration to be limited
to the most urgent repairs. In 1708 and 1719 the church was again
ravaged by fire. Since 1869, when the E. part was re-roofed, while
the W. part from the transept onwards lay in ruins, the cathedral
has been undergoing a thorough and judicious restoration under the
able superintendence of the architect Hr. Christie, who has used or
carefully reproduced all the available details of the original structure.
The chapter-house and the choir with its octagonal apse and elah-
orate S. portal [Konyeindyangen, royal entrance) are now completed.
The great central tower, whose low-pitched roof is surrounded,
English fashion, by four corner-turrets, was completed in 1901.
The restoration of the remainder will probably take several more
decades, but will doubtless he accomplished , as the Norwegians
are justly proud of this great national monument, and as funds
are provided by the state, by the Trondhjem Savings Bank, and
by private subscription (about 100,000 kr. per annum).
The Intekiok is open to tlie public 12-1.30 and 6-7.80 o'clock, on Sun-
days 1-2.30 only (donation to funds expected). — We first enter the
Romanesque Chapter House (PI. K; comp. p. 222) and pass through it
into the E. end of the church with its octagonal dome (PI. A), executed
in a rich Gothic style. The silver reliquary of St. Olaf once preserved
here, 225 lbs. in weight, was removed to Copenhagen at the time of the
Reformation. From the ambulatory a side-door leads to St. Olafs Sprint/
(PI. o), which probably determined the site of the church. A staircase
(closed during the public hours of admission) ascends to the Triforium
and Clerestory, which afford a good view of the church. The apse is ad-
joined by tlie E. Nave (PI. B), which is partitioned oflf from the Transei'T
(PI. C; now in restoration) and is at present used for the Sunday services.
The white marble columns contrast beautifully with the greyish-blue of
the saponite walls. The light-coloured stained-glass windows were executed
in England. Above the apsidal arch is a figure of Christ. — The sacristan
opens the door leading to the Romanesque Transept (PI. C). The stained-
glass in the 2nd cliapel is from Cologne. — We may also visit the Nave
(PI. 1)), which is at present used as the restorer's workshop.
In the 11th and 12th centuries the cathedral was the burial-place of
the kings, and several were afterwards crowned here. By the constitution
of Norway (1814) the kings must be crowned here, and this was done in
the case of Charles XIV. John in 1818, Charles XV. in 1860, and Oscar II.
in 1873. — Important works on the cathedral have been published by P.
A. Munch, Schirmer (Norwegian), and Minutoli (German).
To the E. and S.E. of the cathedral is the Churchyard, many of
the graves in which, in Norwegian fashion, are adorned with fresh
llowers every Saturday. A monument on its N. side commemorates
Thomas Anyell (1692-1767), founder of the adjacent hospital. Ad-
jacent is the Artillery Arsenal, on the site of the old Kongs Oaard
(PI. 1), which was once the residence of the archbishop.
The Academy of Science (del kyl. norske Videnskahers Selskab),
Erling Skakkes (formerly Vestre) Gaden 47, founded in 1760, once
numbered Scheniiig, Suhm, Gunnerus, and other learned men
among its members. It possesses a library of 70,000 vols., large
natural history collections (especially animals and minerals of the
224 Route 29. TRONPHJEM. WuUck.
N.), and antiquities from Trondlijems-Stift (adm. free on Sun. &
Wed., 12-1.30; at other times, 25 e. ). TLe small 'Stavekirke' of
the 14tli cent., in the court, was brought from Holtaalen in 1884
and restored with the aid of the W. wall of the church of Aalen.
Walks. — Towards the East we may cross the upper bridge
over the Nid (the Bxjhro , E. of the cathedral) to the suburb of
Baklandel, and thence, by a path to the left, ascend to (1/4 hr.)
the fortress of *Christiansten (236 ft.), which was erected in the
17th century. The flre-station, marked by a flagstaff, affords a
picturesque view of the town and environs, especially by morning
light. — From the Blasevoldbakke (358 ft.) the view is more
extensive, but there is no point which commands a complete sur-
vey. — Passing through the suburb of Baklandet, where we ob-
serve large engine-works and a shipbuilding-yard, we may go
towards the N.E., across the Meraker railway (p. 226), via Lade-
moen, to ('/o hr.) Ladehammertn ('Hammer', headland).
Towards the West the town was formerly enclosed by forti-
fications. On their site rises the modern Jhlenskirke (PI. 6), built
of blue quartz-sandstone. Beyond is the suburb of Ihleu (iO min.
from the Torv), with a Roman Catholic church and hospital (PI. 4).
On the fjord are extensive timber-yards and some pleasure-grounds.
A picturesque view of Trondhjem (especially effective by
evening-light), with the winding Nid in the foreground, the hills
to the E., and the extensive fjord, is obtained from *Aasveien, a
new road ascending the slope of the Stenbjerg and passing several
villas. The road should be followed to a point about 1 M. from the
Ihlen church. The blunted summit, near which another road passes,
was once crowned with a castle of King Sverre (Sverresborg).
Passing Tivoli, a pleasure-resort at Ihlen, on the left, a road
ascends to the W. On the slope of the hill we observe several old
coast-lines (p. xxxiv), 523 ft. and 580 ft. above the sea-level,
and corresponding with similar lines on the mountains on the E.
side of the fjord. The higher we ascend the finer becomes the
* View we obtain, looking back towards Trondhjem and the fjord
and the snow-mountains on the Swedish frontier. Beyond Gram-
skaret (3/4 hr. from the church of Ihlen), where we pass through a
gate, the view to the E. disappears. Before us, in 10 min. more,
appears the top of Graakallen (1840 ft.), to which two paths ascend
to the left: one 20 min. from Gramskaret, leading by Tungen and
the Fjeld-Sceter ; the other 10 min. farther on, passing Tempervold
and the Kobberdamm. On the way is the Fjeldsceter Hotel mentioned
on p. 220. The top (21/2-3 hrs. from the Torv of Trondhjem; refuge-
hut) commands an extensive survey of fjord and fjeld.
A bad path, almost impassable after rain, diverges from the road to the
right, V2 M. beyond Tempervold, leads round the OJeitfjeld, mostly through
underwood and afterwards overlooking the fjord, and then descends past
the old coast lines and the rifle-range ('■Skyl'lerfmset') to Ihlen.
Excursions. TKONDHJEM. 29. Roule. 225
The TroUavei, running to the N. fromlblen, and affording fine
views of the fjord, leads to (5 Kil.) the iron-foundry of TroUabruk.
In the fjord, about [^/o ^^^- to t^c N. of the town, lies the
fortified island of Munkholmen (by boat in 20 min. ; with one
rower for one pers. 1, two or more pers. II/2 kr. ; with two rowers
I'/o or 2 kr. ; bargain advisable; admission free; a soldier acts as
guide). This 'Monks' Island' was once the site of a Benedictine
nioTiastcry, founded in 1028, of which the lower part of a round
tower is the only relic. Count I'eler Griffcnfeldt (p. Ixxiv), the
minister of Christian V., was confined in a cell here from 1680 to
1698. The island is described by Victor Hugo in his 'Han d'ls-
lande'. Beautiful view from the walls of the fortress.
The ExcuKSioN to the two falls of the Nid near the gaard of Leren,
about 8 Kil. to the S. of Trondhjem, is best made by driving (cariole 5, one-
horse carr. f(ir 2 pers. 8, 'kaleschvogn' 12, landau 14 kr. ; ^/2-liiT. extra for
every hour beyond four). The road traverses the suburb of Ihlen and fol-
lows the left bank of the river. Or we may go by train to Selsbcek (6 Kil.),
where the slow trains stop, and walk thence to the falls O/2 hr.). The
lower or Lille Lerfos i.s 76 ft. high. Good view of it from the veranda
of the *Fosses(ue7i Restaurant, in the early-Norwegian style. Well-kept paths
lead to the foot of the Lille Lerfos and to the upper or Store Lerfos
(100 ft. high), which is broken by a mass of rock about halfway across.
An ExcLKsiON TO THE S.v:LBO-Sj0 takes two days. Ist Day, by rail-
way to Ileimdal (p. 78), and walk thence to Teigen, or drive (skyds-station
at the railway-station of Heimdal) to Brettun (17 Kil., pay for 21), both
situated at the W. end of the Baelbo-Sja or Selhu-Sje (525 ft.), a line
sheet of water, 29 Kil. long and 575 ft. deep, on which a small steamboat
plies live times weekly in summer. On the 8.E. bank of the lake, near
the church ol Scvlbo, and by the mouth of the Nid which descends from the
Ti/dal, lie Marienhorg and the Swlbo Sanatorium (landlord speaks Engli.^h ;
good .shooting near), where we spend the night. — 2nd Day, row (7 Kil.)
or drive (15 Kil.) to Setsaas on the N. bank, and drive by (7 Kil.) Fuglem and
(12 Kil.) Viken to (12 Kil.) Hommelvik on the Meraker railway (see below).
A pleasant trip may be taken by the Steamer which plies once or
twice daily (in 3V2-4'/4 hrs.) to Levanger (p. 226). The most important
stopping-places d-va Ifolmberget on the peninsula of i^oo«/e?j (opposite which,
on the W., is the small Ttilere, with the ruins of the Cistercian monastery
of Tantra, founded in 1207); Leksriken, on the W. bauk ; and Hokstad, on
the large island of Yttereen , where sulphur- ores are mined. — From
Levanger the steamer goes on to Stenkjar (p. 227) and Foosnces.
From Trondhjem to Storlien (6ster.-<und, Stockholm).
106 Kil. Railway (Merakerbanm) in 4^/4 hrs.; two trains daily (fares
5 kr. 8i. 3 kr. 46 0.). To Hommelvik in 1^4 2 hrs., several trains (fares
1 kr. 23, 76 0.).
The train crosses the Nid by a long bridge. To the right lies
the suburb ofBaklandet; then, on the left, the church oi Lade.
Beyond (3 Kil.) Leangen is the lunatic asylum of Rotvold, on the
left. We now skirt the fjord, here called the Strindefjord, and
farther on, the Stjerdalsfjord. 7 Kil. Ranheiin ; 15 Kil. Malvik.
23 Kil. Hommelvik (small inn), with a brisk trade in timber.
(Road to the Salbo-Sje', see above. Fine view from the hill about
1 hr. inland.) Short tunnel. ..
Baedekek's Korway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 15
226 R.29. — Map, p.23-2. MERAKER. Excursivns from
32 Kil. Hell, the junction of the railway to Levanger (see
below), lies at the mouth of the Stjerdals-Elv, crossed by a bridge
to the skyds-station of Sandferhus. — The line now runs inland,
ascending the left bank of the Stj0rdals-Elv. The green valley
is flanked with woods of birch and flr. 42 Kil. Hegre, near the
mouth of the Forra , descending from the N.E. ; 57 Kil. Floren.
Waterfalls on both sides. At (72 Kil.) Oudaaen (279 ft.) we cross
the Reinaa. Tunnel. Then a considerable ascent, through pleasant
scenery, and across the Stjerdals-Elv to —
81 Kil. (501/2 M.) Meraker (722 ft.), a thriving and prettily
situated little town , the last in Norway. Beautiful view from
the station. Near it, an old copper-mine. — The line ascends
rapidly. The district becomes lonely, the vegetation scarity. The
station of Tovmodalen lies 1350 ft. above the sea. The Areskutan
(p. 384) and other snow-mountains of Sweden appear in the dis-
tance. We cross the Swedish frontier (1825 ft.) and reach —
106 Kil. Storlien (1945 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; seep. 386), the
continuation of the line beyond which is Swedish (R. 58).
From Trondhjem, by Stenkjaer, Snaasenvand, and Fiskumfos , to
Namsos.
Railway from Trondhjem to (84 Kil.) Levanger in ca. 3 hrs. (fares
4 kr. 20, 2 kr. 60 0.). — Eoad from Levanger to (51 Kil.) Slenkjwr and
thence to (12 Kil.) Sunde, on the Snaasenvand, with fast stations. — Steamer
from Sunde to Sem four times a week in 4V2 hrs. (fare 2 kr. 10 0.). —
Road, with fast stations, from Sem to Fiskiim 56 Ki)., and thence to
Namsos 71 Kil. — While this is a fine route, it should be noted that the
Fiskumfos is not in full force after the middle of July. If the steamers
suit it can be accomplished in 4 days. Those who content themselves
with a visit to the Trondhjems-Fjord may go from Stenkjser to Namsos
in one day. The stretch between Trondhjem, Levanger, and Stenkjser can
be traversed by the steamer mentioned on p. 225.
From Trondhjem to (32 Kil.) Hell, see pp. 225, 226. — The
railway to Levanger (opened in 1902) crosses the Stjerdals-Elv,
passes (35 Kil.) Stjerdalen, skirts the fjord for some distance, and
then turns inland. — 42 Kil. Skatvold; 51 Kil. Langstein; 62 Kil.
Aasen, in the pretty Hammervand district; 70 Kil. Ronglan;
76 Kil. Skogn.
84 Kil. Levanger {Backlund's Hotel, very fair), a prettily situated
little town with 1750 inhab. and a few factories, almost entirely
burned down in 1897, but since rebuilt.
A road with fast stations ascends from Levanger through the Verdal,
which, however, was devastated in 1893 by huge volumes of water forcing
their way up from the limestone strata below the surface. 14 Kil. (pay for
15} Skjerdalen; 11 Kil. Garnws; 19 Kil. SuUtuen (good station); 22 Kil. (pay
for 33) Skaltiugan (good quarters), the first Swedish station. From this
point we may walk (with guide) to the Skalsje (1930 ft.), cross this lake
by boat, and ascend the fjeld to an Encampment of Lappt (comp. p. 253),
to be found here in summer (.3-4 hrs. from Skalstugan).
Trondhjem. STENKJiER. Map,p.23'2. —29. R. 227
The good KoAi) from Levangcr to Stenkjrer (railway in con-
struction) leads at lirst to the E. to —
12 Kil. Verdalseren, on the left hank of the Verdals-Elv, here
crossed by a bridge. [About 4 Kil. inland lie the gaard of Stikle-
slad and the church of Verdal, built in memory of the battle of
29th July, 1030, in which St. Olaf was slain (comp. p. 2211.]
From Verdalseren our road leads to the N. past the church of
Salhcrg (8 Kil.) and forks: the right branch leads to R0skje (good
quarters) and Stenkjsr (30 Kil.), the left leads via Stremmen to
Stenkjser (34 Kil.). The latter branch is the finer route. It ascends
the Rolsbakker, at the top of which, not far from the gaard 0vre
Rol, we admire the view of the peninsula of Inderecn and the is-
land of Yttereen, of the Borgenfjord to the right and the Yttere-
fjord to the left. We descend, pass the Amtmand's gaard of
Sund, and cross a bridge over the strait between the two fjords
to Stremmen (7 Kil. from Salberg; good quarters at the Land-
handler's, P. Aas). The road then leads to the left to (2 Kil.) the
new church and the station of' —
17 Kil. Saxhaug (good quarters). The hill on which the old
church stands is a fine point of view. Those who do not require
to change horses at Saxhaug drive straight on from Stremmen (thus
saving 4 Kil.). The country is well ciiltivated.. Road hilly. Beyond
(11 Kil.) Korsen we join the road coming from Reskje on the right.
11 Kil. Stenkjeer ( Thorbjernsen s Hotel; Langli Hotel), a town
of 2000 inhab., practically rebuilt after a great fire in 1900, is
prettily situated at the mouth of the By-Elv, which descends from
the Snaasenvand and is here crossed by a bridge.
From Stenkj^r to Namsos (p. 234), 85 Kil. (fast stations): 16 Kil.
(pay for 17) j0Hvik (good quarters), on the NJrllebotn, the inmost bay of
the Beilstfid/Jord. Then across the watershed (300 ft.) to the Namsenfjord.
15 Kil. Elden (290 ft.); 18 Kil. Redhammer (good quarters-, steamer-.'station) ;
16 Kil. 5a«3.«und (22 Kil. from Xamsos by water); 11 Kil. SpiUum. From
Spillum 3 Kil. more to the Stremhylla Ferry; thence we row across the
fjord (4 Kil.) or drive (8 Kil.) to Namsos.
The road to the Snaasenvand ascends on the right bank of the
By-Elv, which forms a fall by the gaard of By, and then passes the
Reinsuand, the Fossumvandj and a number of farms.
11 Kil. Sunde (good quarters) lies at the S.W, end of the Snaa-
senvand (78 ft. ; 46 Kil. long), a beautiful sheet of water enclosed
by wooded and rocky hills. On the N. bank runs a road with poor
stations. We prefer the steamboat (p. 226 ; if available), the pier
of which is at the gaard Nestvolden, beyond the bridge, and which
carries us in 41/2 hrs. to —
Sem (good quarters). — Thence round the E. end of the lake,
and by a beautiful, but hilly road, to the Snaasetiheia. Beyond the
highest point of the latter (804 ft.) the new road diverges to the
right and descends in to the pretty valley of the Sandela, which
here (at the bridge) forms the fine Formofos. We descend on
15*
228 Ii.'J9. — Map,p.-J32. FISKUMFOS.
the right bank of the stream and skirt the E. slope of the Gjeitfjeld
C2580 ft.).
27 Kil. (pay for 33) Formo (good quarters). Still keeping near
the winding Sandprla, we reach the Namsen-Elv , which we cross
(about 172 Kil. from the mouth of the Sandftla) and so join the
Namsos and Fiskum road, 5 Kil. to the E. of Vie (see below); to
the left is the church of Grong (see below). We follow this road
to the E., along the right bank of the Namsen-Elv, to —
12 Kil. Fossland (197 ft.). The road, which to a great extent
has here been blasted out of the rock, crosses the mouth of the
Gartlands-Elv, and ascends the marshy slope of the Aurstadfjeld
( 1355 ft.), passing the gaards of Gartland (owned by Mr. Merthyr
Guest) and Aurstad, where we enjoy a view of striking beauty.
We now descend to the farm -buildings (good quarters) on the
Fiskumfos, a fall of the Namsen-Elv, 105ft. in height and of
great volume (not unlike the Rhine Fall at Schatfhausen), but apt
to dwindle towards August. The little house below the dairy affords
a good view of the fall. A flight of steps made by the Tourists'
Club descends to the foot of it, but is in bad condition (1903). —
About 1 Kil. farther on, 17 Kil. from Fossland, lies the station of
1-lskem or Fiskum (good accommodation).
From Fiskum to Namsos , down the wooded Namdal , a long
day's journey (9-10 hrs. , excluding stoppages). The valley is
well peopled and at places its scenery is fine.
17 Kil. Fossland, and thence to the end of the road coming
from the Snaasenvand, and past the church of Grong (see above).
11 Kil. (from Fossland) Vie, a great resort of English anglers,
the Namsen-Elv being considered one of the best salmon-rivers in
P^urope. The fishings are let. Nearly 1 Kil. farther on is the gaard of
Ler (good quarters) at the foot of the Holoklumpen (1370 ft.). The
road skirts the river and the base of the Spanfjeld (1560 ft.), and
passes the old church of Rauem.
17 Kil. Haugum, in Raiiemslelten, a tolerably well-peopled
district.
About 2 Kil. t(i the E. oi Haugum a post-road diverges to the N., passing
Flasnces (good quarters) and skirting the E. bank of the Eidsvand, to
(11 Kil.) Oalgeften and (11 Kil.) Merkved ; then past the church of Heland
to (17 Kil.) Plot, and down the Rosendals-Elv to (17 Kil.) Kongsmo, at the
heftd of the inner Foldenfjord (p. 234).
The road traverses the marshy Tramyr.
11 Kil. Hun, near the church of Skage. We descend along the
left bank of the Reinhjer-Elv and cross it near its influx into the
Namsen-Elv. We finally follow the latter stream, which is of
considerable breadth and skirts the foot of the Aalbergfjeld.
15 Kil. Namsos (p. 234).
NORTHERN NORWAY.
Route Piit';e
General Remarks 229
:»0. From Trondhjem to Bodw 233
TUe Foldenfjurd, Bindalsfjora, and Velljord 234-236
The Duuderlandsdal, Beieiendal, Saltdal, and Junkeisdal 237,238
Excursions from Boder : the Beierenfjord, Saltenfjord
and Skjerstadfjord, Sulitelma, and Landegode . 241-243
31. The Lofoten Islands 243
Vesteraalen 247
32. From Bode to Tromse 248
TUe Fdldonfjiiid, Ofcitenfjord, and Skjonicnijord . . .243,249
From Maal.9na'3 to the Kustavand, to Strveien, and to tlio
Balsfjord .251,252
33. From Tromsa to the North Capo 254
The Ulfsjurd 255
Excursions in the Lyngen District 256
TheAltenfjord. From the Altenfjord to Vad30 via Karajok. 2fS
34. From the North Cape to Vadse 2G2
3;'). Syd-Varangor 2G()
30. From the Altentjord to Haparanda in Sweden . . . 207
37. From llammerfest to Spitzbergen 208
Communication with the Nordland is maintained chiefly by the
steamers of the united companies Ikryenske and NordenfjcUhke
Dainp^kiba-Selskab (p. xviii). The Tourist Steamers alone touch
at the North Cape (twice a week). I'esides these boats, the Mail
Steamers ply throughout the year, leaving Trondhjem once weekly
for Hammerfest (Line II) and twice weekly for Vadse (Lines I <<:
III). Tlie steamers of the 'llurtigrute' (fast route) of the same com-
panies, and the steamer 'Vesteraalen', of the VeslercKilens Damp-
skilis-Selskab, also ply once a week from Trondhjem to the Lofoten
Islands and Hammerfest; passengers by these change at Hammer-
fest for the North Cape steamer. Besides all these, several British
vessels , carrying tourists only , start at least once weekly from
London, Hull, Leith, etc., for the North Cape (see p. xiii; or
enquire of Messrs. T. Cook and Son); also several German boats
from Hamburij and Bremen, and Danish boats from Stettin.
The course of the Tourist Steamers (see time-tables issued
by the agents mentioned at p. xiv) is usually as follows: — Dep.
Trondhjem Mon. and Thurs. in the evening; arr. at Svarllfen Tncs.
and Frid. evening ; then a splendid voyage tliroujih tlio Lofoten
Islands; arr. at Tromae on Wed. and Sat. afternoon (halt of 3 hrs.) ;
15, 10
230 NORDLAND.
arr. at Hammer fest Thurs. and Sun. morning; the sea-fowl islands
of Stappene are passed in the afternoon, and the North Cape (p. 261)
is reached in the evening. — lleturn - voyage : Dep. North Cape
on Frid. and Mon. mornings; arr. in the evening at tlie Lynj^en-
fjord; arr. at Tromse on Sat. and Tues. mornings and at the
Lofoten (liaflsund) in the evening; at Torghatten on Sun. and
Wed. evenings, and at Trondhjem on Mon. and Thurs. mornings.
The whole trip from Trondhjem to the North Cape and hack thus
takes less than 7*/2 days by the tourist-steamers.
The tourist-steamers are comfortably fitted up. But they are
generally crowded, as they afford the easiest and speediest access to
the sights of the Nordland; and the life on board, as in a large
hotel, is apt to pall.
TUe Fares IN THE TouitisT Steamers fur the whole voyage, including food,
are as follows : — bei-th in a stateroom containing one, two, or three berths,
250-300 kr. (132. ISs.; ibl.; IQl. 13«. 6rf.), according to position and accom-
modation ; cabin-fare, with a berth in the fore-cabin, 222 kr. (i.21. As. Qd.).
Steward's fee included in the fare. Single tickets, but nut return-tickets,
are issued for sections of the voyage. Ko reduction is made for families.
— The tourist-agents and the hotel-keepers at Trondhjem let comfortable
steamer-chairs for the voyage (3'/2 kr.).
The Mail Steamers call at numerous stations and take i^/4-S
days for the voyage from Trondhjem to Bode, 2-5 days to Tromse,
and 372-6 days to Hammer fest. Thence through the Mageresund
(p. 262) to Vadse, 2'/2 days more. The whole voyage from Trondhjem
to Vadse and back takes about 17 days. The mail-steamers are but
little inferior to the tourist-steamers in point of equipment and
commissariat, and though they do not touch at the North Cape,
they make frequent stoppages of one or more days, thus giving time
for many interesting excursions on shore. At the same time, some
of the longest halts are made at the least interesting points, espe-
cially on the return-voyages after the end of July, when the loading
of the enormous cargoes of herring sometimes delays the steamer
24 hrs. or more beyond the advertised time.
The Fares in the mail-steaniers are reckoned by mileage, the first
cabin, which is alone recommended, costing 40 0. per Norwegian sea-
mile. The fare from Trondhiem to Sodii (76 sea-miles) thus amounts to
30 kr. 40 0., to Tromse (125 M.) 50 kr., to Hammer/esl (155 M.) 62 kr., to
Varde (171 M.) 80 kr., to Vadsei (210 M.) 84 kr. Return-tickets ('Tur og
Retur') should be taken for sections only, as the journey may not be
broken. Return-tickets are valid for six months and are available for the
'Vesteraalen' (p. 229), but not for the tourist-steamers. — As to charges
for food , see p. xix. — Each steamer carries a small Post Office,
which also undertakes the transmission of telegrams. Passengers may
receive telegrams at Trondhjem, Nainsos (p. 234; not touched at by the
tourist-steamers), Hennin</sva'r (p. 246), Ledingen (p. 249), ifaciiaii (p. 250),
Tromse (p. 252), or Hammerfest (p. 259). These should be addressed to the
recipient, 'Passager (name of steumer), Dampskibskonlor (name of slatiou)\
The captain, males, and post-office officials generally speak English.
One drawback to the Nordland voyage is the difficulty of getting
rest. As there is scarcely an uninteresting point on the wliole
voyage, and as it is always day in the height of summer, the trav-
NORDLAND. 231
eller is naturally anxious to see everything : but all who wish to
avoid over-fatigue aud nervous exhaustion should sleep for at least
4-0 hrs. after midnight aud an hour or two after dinner. As the
sofa-berths in the general cabin require to be vacated by 0 a.m.,
those who desire to sleep in comfort should secure a berth in one
of the staterooms. The traveller should therefore apply beforehand
at the steamboat-offices at ISergen or Troudhjem, or to one of the
agents at Christiania, Hamburg, London, Newcastle, or Leitli. On
receiving a reply that the berths desired are still disengaged, the
applicant should remit the amount of the fare at once, as other-
wise the berth will not be reserved. Unless previously bespoken,
a berth is rarely obtainable except in the general cabin. — As
nearly the whole voyage is within the island-belt ('indenskj£ers'),
sea-sickness is rare. — The Pilots ('Lodser'), as well as the cap-
tains and crews , are generally obliging and well informed. Two
pilots navigate each vessel on the different stages of the voyage,
one of them being always on duty.
Landing by means of one of the 'Ranenbaade' (p. 237) that
swarm round the steamer on entering a harbour, costs 10-20 ei. (the
'taxt' or tariff sliould be demanded). — The time on board the
steamers is altered daily to that of each locality, a fact to be remem-
bered by passengers going on shore.
The physical characteristics of the Norwegian coast will not
fail to interest even the most experienced traveller. Weather,
winds, fogs, the play of light and shade, the purity of the air, are
all peculiar to the country. Even the Alpine tourist will be at
fault here in trying to estimate distances. Perhaps the trip from
Tacoma and Victoria to Sitka, along the coast of Alaska, offers tlie
closest analogy within reach of the ordinary tourist (see Baedeker's
United Stales or Baedeker s Canada). The animal kingdom is of
extraordiuary richness. The sea teems with cod, herrings, skate, and
other fish. Narwhals 6-12 ft. long, dolphins leaping from the water,
porpoises, and other denizens of the ocean are seen (best from the
bows of the vessel) disporting themselves in every direction, but
whales are rarely visible. At certain places nestle swarms of eider
ducks, whose swimming and diving powers are very remarkable,
enabling thein to dive twenty fathoms or more for the little crabs
and other <;rustacea on which they live. Everywhere the air is full
of sea-gulls, which are often robbed of their prey by the skua (Lest-
ris parasitica, pomarina, cataractes), whicli, unable to lish for it-
self, compels them to drop their booty.
The most striking scenery extends from the Arctic Circle
{Ilestmande, p. 239) to the Lofoten Islands (R. 31) and tlie S. end
of Ilinde (l.jjdingen), where stupendous mountains and gla-
<'.icrs are seen close to the sea. Of majestic beauty is the island
scenery of the Arctic Oceai\ beyond Troiiise, by thi> Futjle (p. lUb)
and the Lync/enfjnrd (p. 2r)r>). Uejoiul llaiinnerftst tin* scenery
232
NORDLAND.
becomes severe and desolate. At the North Cape Europe termin-
ates, and the Arctic regions begin. — The best points for pass-
engers by the mail-steamers to break their journey are: Bode, for
excursions to the Saltentjoid (p. 241 ; interesting at higli-water only)
and the Sulitelma (p. 242); Svolvar or Diyerrmden, for an excur-
sion to the Lofoten Islands (p. 243) or for the ascent of the
Digermulkollen by moonlight (one of the finest points of the journey
in suitable weather); I'romse, for the Ulfsfjord and Lyngenfjord
(p. 255); and Harnmerfest, for tlio ascent of Tyven (p. 2B0).
Inns are found in all the larger places; and elsewliere travellers
are nearly always well received at the houses of the 'Landhandlere',
which, however, have nothing in common with ordinary hotels,
except that the traveller pays for his entertainment.
The best Season for a cruise to the North Cape is between
20th June and 15th August. Before the middle of June the
mountains are still covered with snow, and the vegetation in the
valleys is not fully developed , and after the middle of August
the nights become longer. The success of the journey is, of course,
dependent upon the weather, which may cause disappointment at
any season.
The Midnight Sun , visible only within the Arctic Circle
(60°32'30"), is seen as follows: —
Places
For the first time.
For the last time.
Upper
Blargin
Centre
Whole
Disk
Whole
Disk
Centre
Upper
Margin
liude
Tromse
Hwrnimrftit
North Cape
30th Jlav
18th - '
13th -
nth -
1st June
19th May
14th -
12th -
3rd June
20th May
16th -
13th -
8th July
22nd - "
27 th -
30th -
10th July
24 th -
28th -
31st -
12th July
25th - ■
29th -
Ist Aug.
Passengers by the tourist-steamers have three or four oppor-
tunities of seeing the midnight sun, once at the Vaagsfjord beyond
Harstadhavn (p. 250), again off the Fugle (p. 255), again from the
North Cape (p. 261), and a fourth time on leaving the Lyngen-
fjord, in the direction of the Fugle. Passengers by the mail-boats
who make excursions inland also have several opportunities of seeing
it (pp. 248, 2(il), but from the mail-boat itself it is scarcely visible
owing to the islands which obscure the horizon. It must, however,
be remembered that a perfectly clear sunset is still rarer here
than in lower latitudes, and that the northern horizon is very apt
to be veiled in cloud and mist. The sublimity of the spectacle has
been described by Carlyle, Bayard Taylor, and many others.
Midnattssoleii p& bergen sail
tilodriid till alt sk&da;
Det var ej dug, det var ej natl,
Bet viiijde emelltm hada. (Tegntr.)
I i«\^i'i^ii««i.iTi I %/i\\/iirti I L.1^
^t
^"-K. ./^T
"^■^^^^Mti - -^
^^
r
\\_4i»^
-A,
_!ii_
BEIAN. 30. Route. 233
The midnight sun on the mountain lay
And bloodred was its hue;
It was not night, it was not day,
But wavered 'twixt the two.
The Blaps in this Handbook (four sections, the places where they join
being indicated by corresponding marks; see p. x), though of small scale
(1 : 1,500,000), show the usual courses of the steamboats and will probably
suffice for most travellers. Fulness of detail has been .subordinated to
clearness. The course ot the mail-steamers is indicated by , that
of the tourist-steamers by — . — . — . Several other interesting routes are
marked . As mentioned at p. xxix, the best of the larger maps
arc Cnmmermeyer^s Reisekarl over det nordlige Norge (scale 1 : 800,000 ; price
4kr.) and/). (U'rbiiinj,h:n s Lomme |l'ocket| Atlas over Norge ^ the Nordland
maps of which ore very clear (price 3 kr. 50 0.).
Travellers by mail-steamer should provide themselves with the latest
issue of the Cominnnicalioner .
The Distancet between the principal stations are given as usual in
Norwegian sea-miles (see p. vi).
30. From Trondhjem to Bod0.
76 S.M. (about 310 Engl. M.). The actual course of the steamers is,
however, much longer, varying according to the number of stations called
at (42 in all). The Mail Steameks take 13-15 hrs. to reach Namsos (fare
12 kr. 40 «r.), and 42-44 hrs. (on some voyages 48-5'2 hrs.) to reach Boda
(fare 30 kr. 40 er.1. The express-steamer 'Vksteuaalen', touching at Rjrrvik,
Br0n0, and .Sandufcsuen , reaches Bode in 28 hr.i. The Tocrist Boats
do not touch at Bodisr on their N. voyage.
The voyage through the outer Trondhjeras-Fjord and along the
coast beyond it is at first comparatively uninteresting. The first
.station is liedbjeryet, with the ruined nunnery of Rein, on the N.
bank of the fjord, an<l the old mansion of Bstraat in the distance.
7 S.M. Bdan (p. 215), where travellers from the S. may join
the nortliward-bound steamers without going to Trondhjem. Reian
lies at the end of the flat peninsula of Oreland, with its numerous
farms, on the S.E. side of which stretches the SIcJer en fjord.
The vessel now steers to the N. On tlie left is tlie large red
liglithouse known as Kjexmgen ('the goat'l; on tlie right stretches
the large peninsula of Fosev, formed by tlic sea and the long fjord
of Trondhjem. To the W. are the islands of Stor Fosen and the
T<jrij-0er.
5 S.M. Vuldersund. The Nordlandnjmgtc, with their lofty bows,
and rigged with a single square- sail ('Raaseil') and a topsail
('Skvaerseil' or 'Topseil'), are frequently seen here on their way
to the 'Tydskebrygge' or German Quay at Bergen, deeply laden
with dried fish. But these craft are gradually being superseded by
steamers.
3 S.M. Stoksund. To the N. are four caverns , the largest of
which is Hardbakhukn, by the gaard of Hardlxtk. To the W. lie
the Linese and Stoke.
2 S.M. Sijdkroge. To the N.W. lies the island of Almenningcn.
234 R. 30. — Map, p. 232. NAMSOS. From Trondhjem
containing the quarries wliicli furnished the marble lor Trond-
hjem cathedral {\>. 222). Fish spread out on the rocks to dry begin
to be seen here; in winter they are'hung on 'Hjelder', or wooden
frames. Eider-ducks abound. — 2 S.M. Besaker.
1 S. M. Ramse. The black and white rings on the rocks
'T0rneringe'), resembling targets, indicate the position of iron
stanchions for mooring vessels ('Maerker')- The maintenance of
these rings ('Ringvffisen'), like that of the lighthouses and pilots
('Fyrv£esen', 'Lodsv;rsen'), is under government. The number of
lights required in the 'Skjffirgaard' is, of course, very great. — For
the next two hours we traverse the open Foldensje, which is pro-
longed towards the N.E. by the Foldenfjord (not to be confounded
with the fjord of that name to the N. of Bodo, p. 248). The water
here is often rough.
5 S.M. Bjere. The mail-steamer now steers to the S.E. into the
Namsenfjord, which is separated from the Redsund to the N.E. by
the long winding island of Ottere. The scenery improves as we
ascend the fjord. Namsos does not come in sight until we have
rounded the long promontory of Marranes.
6 S.M. (from Trondhjem 81) Namsos (A. Jenssen's Hotel;
British vice-consul and Lloyd's agent, Mr. J. Somnierscldeld), a
town of 2300 inhab., charmingly situated on the N. bank of the
Namsen-Elv, was founded in 1845 and has been rebuilt twice after
destructive fires, in 1872 and 1897. It has a large timber-trade
and some saw-mills. From the Church, which stands on a rocky
hill in the middle of the town, we follow Stor-Gaden, then cross
the fields to the left, and finally ascend some rock-steps to (1/2 lir.)
the view-pavilion on the Bjerxunklampen (360 ft.).
Excursion up the Namdal to the Fiskumfos, see p. 228.
From Namsos to Kongsmo. A small steamboat plies once a week to
the Indre Foldenfjord. .Stations: Servik, Seiersiad, Lund, etc. From the
terminus Konc/smo a skyds-road leads to Haugum (p. 228).
We now steer through the strait of Lokkuren and the pretty
Serviksund, past the W. and N. side of the Otterer. 3 S.M. Fu$-
landsosen. Then through the narrow Redsund, and across the part-
ly unsheltered Foldenfjord. — 4 S.M. Appelvcvr [Brandzteg's Hotel),
a small island with a fish-cannery at the mouth of the Indre Folden-
fjord. We thread our way through a maze of islets, passing the
Ncere on the right.
3 S.M. Rervik (Anzjen's Hotel, very fair; telegraph -station,
oomp. p. 235), on the island of Indre Vigten ; to the W. are Melleni
Vigten and Ytre Vigten, on which rise the Sulafjeld (600 ft.) and
Dragstind (525 ft.).
3 S.M. Risvar. — 2 S.M. Fjeldnik.
To the left is the island of Lek«f, a prominent rock on the 8.
promontory of which resembles a giantess. — On the Lek0 lies the
hamlet of Skei, at which the steamers sometimes call. Farther on
we have a fine view of the rocks of Leke as wc look back.
to Bode. BR0N0. Map, p. 232. — 30. R. 235
1 S.M. Gutvik, bcliiiid which rise the two Heilhome. On
tlic right opens the Bindalsfjord , the boundary between Nordrc
Tiondhjems Anit and HeUjeUtnd , the Halogaland of early
Norwegian history, which extends N. to the promontory of Kunnen
(p. 239).
A local steamer, starting from Br/?ii0 (fee below), plies up the many-
armed Bindalsfjord to Terraak and Heilstad , near Bindalen-Vatsar'S.
Thence, towards the N.W., the long Thosenfjord^ a huge mountain-clei't,
extends t<i Tliosboln and Gaard Thosdal, from which the traveller may
proceed with a guide to Hortskarmo in the Sveniiigsdal, and to Mosjeeii
on the Ve/sen/Jord (p. 236} in l'/>-2 days. The ascent from Gaard Thosdal
is extremely steep, and on the E. side of the mountain there is the trouble-
some Gaasvas-Elv to be forded.
The mountains now become more varied in form. To the N.,
5 S.M. distant (about 2 hrs. by steamer), soon appears the island
of Torgen, otice the seat of the family of that name, with its curious
hill called *Torghatten ('market-hat'; 824 ft.), which resem-
bles a hat floating on the sea. The mail-steamboat stations near-
est to the island are Stenseen , V'lk , and Semnces. The tourist
steamers on the return-route touch at the E. side of the Island
and land their passengers. A marshy and stony path (for which
strong boots are advisable) ascends about halfway up the hill
to (30-40 min.) the 'Hul' (or 'Hullet', 'the hole'), a huge natural
tunnel 407 ft. above the sea. Its height at the E. entrance,
where large masses of de'bris extending far into the interior arc
piled up, is about 65 ft., at thcW. end 246 ft., and in the middle
204 ft.; total length 635 ft.; breadth 36-66 ft. The sides are
mostly flat, and 'nearly perpendicular, and look at places as if
they had been aitiflcially chiselled. The view of the sea with its
countless islands and rocks, seen through this gigantic telescope,
is strikingly beautiful. The natives sell milk, lemonade ('Brus'),
and '.Multeb;er'. The excursion takes l'/o-2 hrs.
As the steamer pro<-eeds on her course, we see through the hole
in Torghatten from N.E. to S.W. (On the way back the tourist
steamers usually steer past the W. side of the island, enabling
us to look through it from S.W. to N.E.) We steer through the Brene-
fund, passing the Kvale, and reach the important station of —
6 S.M. (from Gutvik) Br^n^r, the residence of the clergyman
and tlie doctor of the district, with a telegraph-offlce. The telegraph
is of great importance to the fishermen. At Brene, if not already at
Beian or Uervik, are often seen fleets of herring-boats, the smaller
being the tishing-boats, the larger destined for the cargoes. On the
arrival of a Sildsthn, or shoal of herrings, the herring-fleet is at once
telegraphed for, and is usually towed by steamers to the scene of
action. At the same time supplies of salt and barrels, requisitioned
by wire from every quarter, are sent by steamers chartered for the
purpose. (Farther to the N. the chief herring-fishery stations are
Sclsevik, Bode, Ledingcn, Harstadhavit, Gibostad , and Tromse.)
On the shore arc often seen the cottages of the 'Strandsidderc',
236 R. 30. — Map, p. 232. THJ0T0. From Trondhjem
who live almost exclusively by lisliiiig, wliilc the inland settlers
are called 'Opsiddcre' or 'Nysiddere'.
At Br0ne( we change for the local steamer, which plies on the grand
Velfjoi-d, touching at Here, Eidet-Soolerland (at the entrance to the Skil-
lebotn, where excellent marble is quarried), Navemocs, and Ilegge (good
quarters at the landhandlcr's), near the church of Nestvik, on the filove
Bjerga, as the innermost bay of the fjord is named. In the Tidingsdal or
Teitingsdal, the landward continuation of the fjord, the ground suddenly
rises, */< I'r. from its mouth, in a terrace of 46U ft., over which falls the
Tidingsdalsfos in a sinjjle leap of 270 ft. — From the Velfjord to the N.
diverge the deep and wild Oks/Jord and the Slorfjord.
All the steamboats pass the mouth of the Velfjord, on the S,
side of which rises the huge Mosakselen. and on the N. the pictur-
esque Heiholmstinder \^\t]\ the Andalshat. To the W. lies the large
island of Vayen, rising to 2300 ft., on which is Rere. The mail
steamers either call at Kere or steer between the Havne and the
mainland to Forvik. The tourist-steamers pass between the islands
of Vsegen and Ilavnef, in full view of the imposing Seven Sisters
(p. 237). To theE. towers the conspicuous Fmfcno'/j'cid (4330 ft.). On
the right is the Rede, a red rock, where some of the steamers call.
6 S.M. Thj«rt«r or Tjolta (Jergensena Hotel), a small island,
formerly the property of Haarek of Thjete, a well-known character
in early Norwegian history, lies at the mouth of the beautiful
Vefsen fjord , which runs inland to the E. of the island of Alsten,
and is entered twice weekly by the mail-steamers. The banks of the
inner fjord are finely wooded. The steamer steers into the narrow
S.E. bay, called Vcfaenhunden, and stops at Mosjeen (Mosjeren's
Hotel; Mr. Erik Eatlien, British vice-consul), a little town with
1400 inhab. and the large steam saw-mills oi Halscneen , Drevje-
bruget, and others.
From 3Ijos0en a good road leads to the Tusiervand and to Slornes on
the Resvand (1475 ft.), which ranks next to Lake Mj^sen in point of area.
From Stornes we may ascend the Brurskanke and the Kjeringtind (5805 ft.),
on the W. side of the lake, and then follow the course of XhtResaa, the
discharge of the Tustervand and l!0svand, towards the N., to Resaaeven
on the Ranenfjovd (p. 237). About halfway thither a digression may be
made to the E., up the Bjwaa^ for the sake of ascending the imposing fix-
Under (about 5580 ft.); but these peaks are better reached from I!0saa0ren
and through the Leerskardcil.
The tourist-steamers and some of the mail-boats traverse the
'Skjaergaard' to the W. of theTh.jete and the large island of Alsten
(pop. 1500), on which rise the finely shaped hills called the *Syv
Sestre ('seven sisters'; 2630-3280 ft.). Six hills only are dis-
tinguishable, but one of them has a double crest. The highest of
the sisters is the Bigeriind. At the S. end of the island is the
church of j4/.?<a/ioti5r,wherePe(er7>a*\<i (p.lsxvi), authorof 'Nordlands
Trompet', a description of Norway in verse, was pastor in 1689-
1708. On the Haiignces, near the church, is the so-called Ko7igs-
grav ('king's grave'). The mail-steamers call at Sevik (Jensen's
Hotel); also, on the N. side of the island, at Sandnctseer). (Sanne-
scen's Hotel; N. Strem Jakobseii's Hotel; local steamer toLovunden
to Bode. MO. Map,p.'232. — 30.R. 237
and TliriMien, see p. 238), near wliicb are the old church of
Stamnas and the district-prison. From Sandnaeseen we may as-
cend the N. peak of the Seven .Sisters, passing (6 Kil.) the gaard of
Botnel.
At Sandnaeseen unite the courses of the steamers which pass
the island of Alsten on the E. and on the W. side. Farther on we
pass the Dynnsesar, to the W., of which the Aakviknaver (^2880 ft.)
is the highest point. At Bjern, on the Dynnaese, the greatest of
the Nordland fairs takes place on 2nd July. These fairs were
originally called Ledinysberge (or Lensberge), as the natives used
there to pay their taxes (Leding).
0 S.M. Kobberdal on the island oi Lekta, with hatcheries of
eider-ducks. The birds build their nests in nooks artificially made
for the purpose. As they are then very tame, a number of the
eggs may be taken without frightening the birds away; and the
eider-down they leave in the nests is afterwards collected.
On the right, to the N.E. of Kobberdal, opens the Raneufjord,
which is visited by several of the mail-steamers, though the tourist
steamers do not enter it. This fjord, anciently Kadund, is the most
richly timbered in the Nordland; almost all the boats, houses, and
coftins between this point and Yadse are made from its tir- trees. The
'Ranenbaade' have high bows and sterns, not unlike the Venetian
gondolas; they are considered typical national craft, and are often
used as pleasure-boats. About 2000 such boats are built every year,
more than one -third of the number coming from Lars Meyer's
yards at Mo.
The steamboat-stations in the Ranenfjord are Hemnas (Saras
Nielsen's Hotel), with a new church and a group of huts for the
use of church-goers from a distance arriving over-night, and —
Mo, a considerable trading-place, with a comfortable inn, at the
mouth of the green Dunderlandsdal, which is watered by a strong
and copious 'elv'. The large deposits of rich iron ore in this valley
have been purchased by 'The Edison Ore Mining Syndicate', and
arrangements for working them made at a cost of 1-1 Vo million
sterling. Water-power is afforded by the Dunderlands-Elv, which
forms the Ratfos about 5 M. from Mo. — On the N. side of the
fjord, about 3 M. from Mo, are the pyrites-mines of Bosmo, which
employ about 200 men; the huddling (ore-washing) works are on
the bank of the fjord.
The Dunderlandsdal is also interesting for its massive limestone
formations, which contain several Stalactite Caverns ('Drypstenshuller"! :
the Jtisa</7-olte on the Langvand, near Hammernws (11 Kil.); the Laphul, near
Gaard Bjernaa, and opposite to it another by Gaard Grenlien, both in the
valley of the liedvas-Elv. A peculiarity of several of the feeders of the
Dunderlands-Elv is that they di.sappear in caverns and suddenly rc-appear
lower down. Thus, the Slilvasaa, near Gaard Slor/os/iei in the Skcyfrudal
(about 15 Kil. from 3lo). Near it is the forest-girt Urtvand. Farther to
the N.W. is the Eiteraa. which drives mills close to its egress from the
earth. Near this are Tijvshdleren (thieves' grotto') and an interesting
238 R. 30. — Map,p. 23-2. VIKHOLMEN. From Trondhjem
Ravine, where the rushing of the subterranean water is audible. The
Pruglaa near Oaard Jordhvo may also be mentioned. By the Fruglkei-Bro
are about fifty water-worn 'giant's cauldrons'.
From Bjaeldaanaes, the central point of the Dunderlandsdal (55 Kil.
from Mo ; road without stations), we may visit the Stornidals/os and the
marble grotto at its foot, near the BrediksQeld. We may also ascend the
Urtfjeld (about 4920 ft.), by crossing the Stormdalshei, or the Brediksfjeld,
which commands a splendid view of Svartisen and the Lofoten Islands.
From Bjseldaanres it is a day's ride up the BJceldciadal, across a pass
(2805 ft.), and through the 0vre and Nedre Toldaadal, to Toldaa in the
Beierendal, and thence by Oosbakke (pass to the Saltdal, see p. 243) to
Storjord (45 Kil. in all; quarters at the under-forester's). From Storjord
to Soleen (p. 241) 14 Kil. more.
From Bjseldaanres to Almindingen in the Saltdal is a long day's journey
(iG-17 hrs.), on which few people are ever met. The route leads either
through the Bj^eldaadal (following the telegraph-wires), or through the
GiMelaadal, Randal, and Letiesdal, which last forms the upper end of
the Saltdal. Below the junction of the Saltdal and Jtmkersdal lies Guard
Berghulnces ; thence to Almindingen and Rognan, see p. 243. — From Berg-
hulnses we go E. to the Junkersdals-Oaard, in the Junkersdal (14 Kil. ; good
quarters). The bridle-path to it leads through the Junkendali-Ur, one of
the grandest rocky ravines in Norway, formed by the Kjevnfjeld to the E.
and the Solvnagfjeld to the W. (4-5000 ft. high). Farther up, the valley is
called Graddis, and is traversed by a bridle-path to Sweden, much fre-
quented in winter, and provided with several 'Fjeldstuer'. Many Lapp settle-
ments are to be met with on the heights in the Dunderlandsdal and Saltdal.
2 S.M. (from Kobberdal) Vikholmen (Olsen's Hotel), charmingly
situated, about 6 Kil. to theN. E. of the mouth of the Ranenfjord.
After their digression into the Ranenfjord the mall-steamers here
rejoin the course of the tourist-steamers. We now steer between
the islands of Huglen, Hannase {TesiAence of the 'S0renskriver', or
local magistrate), and Tombe (2720 ft. ; so called from two rocks
resembling thumbs). To the E. are seen the S.W. spurs of the
Svartisen and to the W. the singularly shaped islands of Lovunden
and Threnen (Threnstdvene). Lovunden, upwards of 2000 ft. high,
is still 30 Kil., and the four islands of Threnen, equally lofty, are
45 Kil. distant; but both seem quite near in clear weather. These
islands are the haunt of dense flocks of loons or divers (^Lunde-
fugle\ Mormon arcticus), whose eggs, about 81/3 in. long and 2 in.
across, are esteemed in the Nordland. They make their nests in
clefts of the rocks difficult of access, which are annually plundered,
and the young birds are also captured and pickled.
The abruptness of Lovunden, the top of which appears to overhang
the water, has given rise to the saying —
'S«.' hvordan han luder den gamle Lovund."
('See how it overhangs, the ancient Lovund'.)
These two remarkable islands may be visited by the local steamer
leaving Sandnoeseen (p. 236) every Sat. afternoon and returning on Monday,
Several intermediate stations.
The Arctic Circle (66°32'30"), the crossing of which is usually
announced by several cannon-shots, passes through the islands of
Threnen and a little to the S. of the HestmandiB'. "We steer through
the Stegfjord, the strait between the Liitjs, with its pyramidal hill
(2110 ft.), on the left, and Alderen on the right. A little later we
to Bode. KUNNEN. Map,p.23-2.—30.R. 239
sight the *Hestniand« (1750 ft.), perhaps the most interesting is-
land in this archipelago, resembling a 'horseman' with a long
cloak falling over his horse. The hill may be ascended without a
guide. The view embraces the ■whole surrounding archipelago, and
the long Svartisen to the E. To the right is a peninsula of the
mainland, projecting far into the sea,
6 S.M. Indre Kvare, a lonely place, from which we may visit
the Melfjord, the Lurer, Lovunden, Threnen, and theHestmand.
Dominating the landscape for many miles, on our right, rises
*Svartisen, an enormous expanse of snow and ice (resembling the
Jostedalsbrae and the Folgefond), about 5o Kil. long and at places
16 Kil. broad, covering a plateau about 4:000 ft. in height, from
which protrude a few peaks or knolls ('Nuter', 'Klumper', 'Knolde'),
while numerous glaciers descend from it to the adjacent fjords.
1 S.M. Selsevik, On the right, the Rangsunde; beyond it opens
the Melfjord, with grand mountains.
2 S.M. liede ('red island'), on which rises B-eAelerven (easy
to ascend), a hill resembling a lion looking westwards. — To the
right open the Tjongsfjord and the Skarsfjord, with their branches
the Bjerangs fjord and the Holandsfjord, which extend close up to
Svartisen. All these fjords are very narrow , being at places
only about 300 yds. across, while their rocky walls attain a height
of 3000 ft. The tourist-steamers enter the Holandsfjord and land
passengers between the gaards of Reindalsvik and Enna. A bad
path, leading through several brooks, runs thence to (20 min.) the
lower margin of the Fondalsbr(e, an arm of Svartisen, the general
view of which, however, is grander from the steamboat. To the S.
rises the Reindalslind (2130 ft.), which is said to afford the best
survey of Svartisen.
The midnight sun (p. 232) may sometimes be seen here before
the beginning of July. Passing the Omnese on the right, we steer
towards the —
3 S.M. (/rene, a pmiling island, which commands a most strik-
ing view of Svartisen. We next pass the mouth of the Glomfjord,
which cuts deep into the mainland, and steer through a narrow strait
between the Mele on the left and the Skjerpa on the right towards
the headland of Kunnen. Far to the N. we obtain our first glimpse
at the Lofoten Islands. — The mail-steamer next sometimes stops
at 0rn(ES and Stedl.
The promontory of *Kunnen or Boffcnceef (1998 ft.), theN.W.
spur of the Svartisen plateau, forms the boundary between Helge-
land and Sullen, and is as a meteorological limit (or 'weather-shed')
of equal importance to Stadtland in the Sendmere (p. 177). At
this point there is a 'Havseie' ('sea-glimpse'), or opening in the
island-belt, through which we get a view of the open sea and some-
times feel its motion. To the W. the Stedtfyr is in sight, to the N.
appears the Fugle, and in the distance the Landcgode (p. 243).
240 R. 30. — Map, p. 232. BOD0. Excursions
The Tourist Steamers now leave the mainland and steer across
the Vestfjord to the Lofoten Islands (see p. 243), of which they
afford a magnificent view.
The Mail Steamers pass, on the left, the Fugle, the Fleind,
and the Ameer, and on the right the cluirch of Gildeskaal and the
large island of Sandkorn, with a mountain 3295 ft. high (beyond
which lies tlie Beicrenfjord, p. 241). We then cross the mouth of
the SaUenfjord{^. 241), at the E. end of which, in clear weather,
we observe the snow-flelds of the Sulitelma (p. 242), and soon reach
the cnrious rocky harbour of —
12 S.M. Bod«. — Hotels. Grand Motel (landlord, llerr Witlenberg,
a German), near the market-place, 3 min. from the pier, R. 2, D. 2,
S. 11/2 kr. , very fair, with fine view from the tower. — British Vice-
Consul, Mr. Nils Falck. — Lloyd's Agent, Mr. ./. Koch, junior. — Information
a,i to exctirsions may be obtained from the Bode og Omegns Turistforening .
Bode, in N. lat. 67" 17', a btisy and increasing place, with
4900 inhab., is the seat of tlie Amtmand or provincial governor.
Among the large modern buildings are still a few of the old cottages
with their roofs of turf. The large wooden church in the Gothic
style dates from 1886. The midnight sun may be seen hence
between the beginning of June and the beginning of July (comp.
p. 232).
A visit to the Lebsaas, or Lehsfjeld, a hill to the N., is re-
commended. From the N. end of Stor-Gaden (whence the red
refuge-hut at the top is visible) we follow the broad road leading
past the foot of the hill. At the fork a board shows the way to the
(3/4-I hr.)hut, whence a well-marked path leads in V2"V4^'"' to the
'Keiservarde' commemorating the visit of Emp. William II. The
top commands a view of the Lofoten Islands to the N.W., of the
snowy Blaamandsfjeld or Olmajalos (p. 242) to the E., of the
Bersvatnstindertothe S.E., andofthe Sandhorn, with the Svartisen,
to the S. Another fine view is obtained from the Voldfjeld (about
1310 ft. ; tourist-hut), 2 hrs. to the N. of Bode. The ascent of the
Junkerfjeld and the excursion to the Vaagevand, with its club-hut,
both reached in I72 ^^- froni Bode, are also interesting.
About 3 Kil. to the E. of Bod© is the Bodegaard, with a church
and a parsonage, at which Louis Philippe, when travelling as a
refugee under the name of Miiller, was entertained on his voyage to
the North Cape in 1796. The road traverses an extensive moss, which
has recently been drained and is now being brought under culti-
vation. To the left rises a new insane asylum ('sindssyge-asyl'), near
which is the refuge-hut on the Renvikfjeld. The drainage-works
revealed, under the moss, a layer of broken shells, about 20 inches
thick, resting upon a foundation of dark grey clay interspersed with
crystals of quartz and granite, thus pointing to the geologically
recent elevation of the bed of the sea at this point. Geologists will
also be interested in the erratic blocks of syenite in the midst of
the j-ock-formation of slate constituting the peninsula of Bode.
from Bode. BEIERENFJORD. Map, p. 2,32. —30. R. 241
ExcuKsiONs FROM l^oDe. Niimerous excursions on land may be
made from Bod*. The well-wooded country around affords a welcome
contrast to the generally bare and desolate scenery of the Nordland.
The following are some of the most attractive steamboat-excursions.
(1) Thk Bkierknfjord. a local steamer plies up the Beieren-
fjord (there and back in 8 hrs.) twice a week. Crossing the mouth
of the Saltenfjord and passing an ^Mg- og- Duun-Vaer' (breeding
place of eider-ducks ; comp. p. 237) and the Island of Sandhorn,
the steamer calls at Skaalland and liesnaSj on the mainland, and at
Sandnces, on Sandhorn (p. 240). Wc now enter the Beierenfjord,
a narrow inlet flanked by imposing mountains, contracting, beyond
Kjelling, to its narrowest part at the gaard of Eggesvik. Several
large 'Jnettegryder' (p. 294) may be seen on the shore. The last
station is Toervik.
From Tvervik we may row to (3Ki\.) Soleen (good quarters at Land-
handler Jentoft's), whence we may ascend the Heiiind (4545 ft. ; with
guide; extensive view of the mountain -solitudes towards Sweden, of
Svartisen to the S., and of the sea dotted with islands to the W., bounded
by the distant Lofoten Islands). Or we may row to Arstad, where there
is a skyds-station, with a fine waterfall. The road leads thence through a
liicturesque valley, \^aat Beierens Kirke (by the gaard ot Moldjord), to Stor-
jord, Oosbakke, and (about 20 Kil.) Toldaa (p. 233).
(2) To THE Saltenfjord and Skjeestadfjord. — The local
steamboat leaves Bod0 three or four times a week between 4 and 10 a.m.
(according to the tide), touches at Strem (for the Saltstr^m), S/cjerstad, Fitske,
and Rognan, at the S. end of the Skjerstadfjord, and returns to Bod0 at
night. — A better way of visiting the Saltstr0m is to drive from Bod0
(telegraph beforehand if possible for cariole) to (17 Kil., in l'/2hr.) Kvalvaag,
and to go thence by sailing-boat in l-l'/z hr. to Strem. In this case the
e.xcursion does not take more than (5-8 hrs.
Two islands, the Streme on the S. and the Qode on the N.,
separate the Saltenfjord from the extensive Skjerstadfjord. The
latter is (lonnected with the sea by three very narrow straits only,
the Sundstreim (200 ft. wide), the Storstrem (500 ft.), and the Oo-
destrem , through which an enormous mass of water has to pass
four times daily, forming a tremendous cataract, known as the Salt-
strflrm, as each tide pours in or out of the fjord. The usual rise of
the tide here is 5-6 ft. only, but when it increases to 8-9 ft. during
spring-tides, the scene is most imposing. Vessels can navigate
these straits during an hour or so at high or at low tide only, and the
steamer times its departure from Boder accordingly. Large quantities
of fish are caught at tliis point.
The best point of view is Y4hr. from Strem (quarters atFurre's,
the Landhandler). A column here commemorates the visit of King
Oscar II. in 1873. The scene is most effective when the water is
pouring into the fjord. The ascent of the Bersvatnstinder to the
S. of Strem is recommended (5-6 hrs. ; fatiguing).
The principal place on the Skjerstadfjord is Skjerstad, with a
church and 6300 iiihab., at the entrance to the ^Fisvarfjord.| whence
.the Topstadfjeld may be easily ascended in 2 hours. Opposite, to
B.\edekeb'8 Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 16
242 R.3U. — Map,p.'J32. SULITELMA.
the W., is the old gaard of Lenas, with an ancient burial-place.
The steamer then recrosses the fjord to Venset. — About 5-6 Kil.
farther on is 0inesgavien, a promontory of conglomerate, a formation
which also occurs in the Kjatnas, 14 Kil. to the S.
Fuske or Fauske (slow skyds-station), on a N. bay of the fjord,
whence a road leads by the Fuskeeid to Dybvik on the Foldenfjord
(p. 248). After a voyage of 8 hrs. from Bode we reach —
Fineidet (Fred. 0stensen's Hotel), the starting-point for an ex-
cursion to the Sulitelma, and the port whence the copper-ore mined
on that mountain and the line white marble quarried near Fuske
are shipped.
Excursion to the Sulitelma. Passing an extensive moraine, we cross
the Fineid (in about 10 min.), which divides the f])ord fri>m the lake of
Nedre Vand. Small steamers (40 0.) ply on this lake and steer through
the Ojemgamsstrem into the J0vre Vand, reaching SJenstaa or Skjenstuen,
in a mountain-valley at the head of the latter, in I1/4 hr. The surrounding
district is known as Vatteiihygden. — From Sj^nstaa the narrow-gauge
Sulitelma Railway (which may possibly have been extended to Fineidet by
the time this Handbook appears) runs through a rocky ravine beside the
impetuous Langvms-Elv, with views of the Galmifos and of the Sulitelma
in the distance. In 1/2 l''"- we reach Fossen, at the foot of the Langvand
(410 ft.), where we change to another small steamer (60 0.). The scenery
on the Langvand is fine ; numerous waterfalls, among which the Rupsi
Joki ('red water"), on the left, deserves speoial notice.
Furulund, the steamboat-terminus (172 hr.), is the seat of the Swedish
Sulitelma Mining Co., which now produces about 44,000 tons of copper ore
annually and employs 700-800 hands ; it also possesses handsome offices and
attractive dwelling-houses. Tourists may take their meals at the 'Damp-
kj0kken\ or restaurant , maintained by the company for the unmarried
officials , and lodging is usually to be obtained there also (but enquire
beforehand at Bod0). In the company's store ('Handelsforretning') provi-
sions, rugs, etc., may be purchased for journeys in the interior. Several
of the mining-officials speak English. — A row to the (1 hr.) Rupsi Joki
(see above) is interesting.
From Furulund we proceed on fnot via Fagermo, and in 1 hr. reach
Fagerli (good quarters and simple fare at Ole Serensm's, whose brother Petler
Serensen is an excellent guide), at the E. end of the Langvand, with the
smelting-worka of the copper-mines. Near it the Balmi Joki forms a fine fall.
The ascent of the "Sulitelma (Lapp '■SulluiCielbma\ 'festival mountain'')
from this point takes about 10 hrs. (there and back) and is neither very
fatiguing nor dangerous. In 11/2-2 hrs. we reach the plateau of "Satikabakken
(2185 ft.), with a fine view of the Langvand, the Svartisen. and the Sulitelma
group ; 2 hrs. more bring us to the foot (about 3280 ft.) of Stortoppen (6180 ft.),
the most N.W. of the three summits of the Sulitelma, which stretch
from N.W. to S.E. After a steep climb of l'/2-2 hrs. over loose stones
we reach Vardetoppen, the W. horn of Stortoppen (about 490 ft. lower
than the latter), and enjoy a grand outlook over a wild desolate mountain
region, with innumerable glaciers (here known as Jcekua) and lakes. The
Stortop, which lies opposite, can hardly be ascended from this side; the
first ascent was made in 1888 from the Sala-Jcekna, which is wedged in
between the summits and thence extends to the S.E. into the Leurodal
(p. 243). The mountain is covered with enormous masses of snow,
which have forced the glaciers to descend 600-700 ft. below the snow-line!
— Adjoining the Sulitelma group on the N. is the Olmajalos (5350 ft.),
with the Olmajalos- J wkna and the Lina-Jaekna.
From Fagerli wo may also ascend the Rapisvari (2171 ft.; 2 hrs.),
commanding a fine view of the Langvand and the Sulitelma; or we may
proceed up the Balmi Joki to the (2^/4 hrs.) Lommijaur, a lake at the S.
VESTFJOKD. Map,p.23:>. — 3LIL 243
tia'^o of the Sulitelma, which we skirt to the (2V2 hrs.) height (2780 ft.)
between it and the Leurodal. View of the Sulitelma, Sala-Jsekna, and
Lommijaur. We are here close to the Swedish bitrder; to Kvickjock,
see p. 400. We may return to Fagerli via the tourist-hut on the Vasboln-
fjeld. descend thence into the Saltdal, and take the steamer from Rognan.
From Fineidet the steamer steers into the S. arm of the fjord to —
Rognan (^skyds-station ; fair quarters), its last station, where it
stops for 1 hr. or more. Rognan lies at the end of the Skjerstad-
fjord, on the left hank of the Saltdals-Elv . Saltdals-Kirke stands
on the right bank.
From Rognan we may drive up the Saltdal, traversing pine-woods and
pa.'sing Sitndbt/, Almindingen, and Nwvernoes. to Rusaanws (fair quarter.^),
whence we may reach Oosbakke in the Beierendal (p. 238) in one day or
Bjteldaiinas in Ranen (p. 238) in two days (horse 10, guide 6 kr. per day).
(3) An excursion from Bode to the island of Landegode, 12 Kil.
to the N., takes a whole day (there and hack). We row across in
2-3 hrs. (3-4 rowers) and land near the gaards of Kvig and Sandvig.
Thence we may ascend the ^Kvittind (2320 ft. ; with guide; 2-21/2
hrs.), which affords a grand view of the whole chain of the Lofoten
Islands (N.) , of the Sulitelma (E.), and of the Hestmand and
Threiien (S.).
31. The Lofoten Islands.
The Mail Steamers ply from Bod0 to Ledingen (p. 249) by different
routes. The line 'Commnnicationer' 226 I follows the coast as far aa
Greta (p. 248), and then crosses to (5-6 hrs.) Svolvcer (p. 246), whence it
proceeds to Ledingen in 5 hrs. more, calling at different intermediate
stations. — Line Com. 226 II skirts the mainland longer and is described
separately (p. 248). — Line Com. 226 III, which goes direct from Bod0
to the Lofoten Islands (Moskenas, p. 245), takes us to Svolvcer in 12 hrs.
from Bod0, and to Ledingin in 8 hrs. more. Among the intermediate
stations are Henningsvcer and Kabelvaag (p. 246). — Some of the steamers
of the Vesleraalens Vampskibs - Selskrib ply direct (Com. 229) to Svolvwr,
while others (Com. 23u) call at numerous intermediate stations. The
company issues 'Tup <fe Returbilletor' available for two months, which
entitle the holder to break the journey at all intermediate stations and
also to travel by the local steamers. — Two steamers leave Svolveer alter-
nately for the K. and W. coasts of the Lofoten and Vesteraalen groups
(three separate routes).
The ToUKiST Steamers traverse the Vestfjord on their voyage north-
wards, affording a view of the Lofoten Islands, and visit tlie Raftsund
(|>. 2471 on the homeward journey.
A Visit of about a week in the Lofoten Islands is described as full
of interest. Fair quarters and tolerable fare are to be obtained at various
points, especially in Svolvar, Kabelvaag, and Digermulen. The traveller
must be prepared to do a good deal of walking on rough paths and to
arrange bis sleeping hours and meal-times, not according to the clock,
but according to the departures of the steamers and the length of the
excursions (comp. p. 231). For longer expeditions travellers should provide
themselves with tents and tinned foods.
The broad *'Vestfjord, which is entirely unprotected towards
the S.W., separates the Lofoten and Vesteraalen Islands from the
mainland. The tourist-steamers traverse it from end to end, while
the mail-steamers steam across it. In both cases we enjoy a superb
**Vicw of the jagged chain of the Lofoten Islands ('Lofotvicggcn',
16*
244 Route 31. LOFOTEN ISLANDS.
or the wall of Lofoten) in their full extent. The light is most
favourahle In the forenoon. Weird, but less imposing, is the mid-
night light, which pales the moon into insignificance. Most effect-
ive of all is stormy weather or a sudden tempest. But in any case,
unless the view is blotted out by mist or rain, the passage of the
Vestfjord presents one of the finest sights in the Nordland.
The chain of the *Lof6ten Islands forms a wide curve starting
from the Vesteraalen Islands, which flank the mainland, and ex-
tending for about 150 Kil. to the S.W. into the Atlantic; and it
has not inaptly been likened to a backbone, tapering away to the
smaller vertebrae of the tail at the S. end. Most of these islands
lie so close together that no opening in their long mountain-chain
is visible from a distance , but those at the S. end of the group
are wider apart. This chain forms a perfect maze of hills, bays,
and straits, interspersed with thousands of rocky islets ('Holme',
'Skjjer', or 'Flese', from Icel. flesjar , as they are often called)
and numerous fishing-banks ('Skaller', 'Klaker'), and enlivened
at places with fishing-villages ('Vjer'). The rock is for the most
part 'gabbro'. Most of the mountains are picturesque and pointed
in shape, often rising immediately from the sea ; many of their
peaks have a crater-like formation, recalling those of the Tatra Mts.
in Austria. So far as not covered with snow, they are clothed
with green moss, which has a peculiar luminosity in damp weather ;
but there is also no lack of barren rocks. Good harbours ('Vaage')
abound, where large vessels, dwarfed to nut-shells, lie close to
rocks several thousand feet high. The larger islands contain rivers
and lakes of some size. The growth of trees in this high latitude
is but scanty, but there is abundance of fresh vegetation owing
to the dampness of the summers and mildness of the winters, so
that sheep and other animals can remain in the open air all the
year round.
The famous Lofoten Fishery is carried on from the middle of January
to the middle of April in the Vestfjord, when the cod (Gadus caUarius; Nor.
Torsk or Skrej) come here from the depths of the Atlantic to spawn, and
abound along the coast between Aalesund and Troms0. So dense are the
shoals ('•fitimer) as they move in serried lines, 100-160 ft. deep, that the
lead, when thrown, actually rests on the bodies of the fish (Fiskehjerg). The
fishing banks round which they swarm lie at a depth of 30 to 110 fathoms.
At this season about 40,000 fishermen in some 9000 boats flock to the
islands, and distribute themselves over 36 chosen spots (Fiskevoer). The
larger boats (about '/s "f tbe total), each manned by 6 men, devote them-
selves to net-fishing. The nets ('Gam'), 27-33 yds. long, with a mesh of
3-3V2 in., are sunk and made fast in the evening, and drawn up in the
morning. The smaller boats, with crews of 3-5 men, fish with lines ('Lin')
1600-2700 yards long and armed with 1200-1500 hooks ; these make their
catch by day as well as night. Finally the old-fashioned hand-lines ('Dyb-
sagn'), with double-hooks ('Pilk"), are also used. A catch of 300 400 cod
for a net-boat or 200 for a line-boat is considered a good day's work ;
600-800 or 400 respectively would be very good. The daily wage of the
net-fisherman averages 1 kr. 52 0., that of the line-fisherman 1 kr. 60 0.,
while the hand-line crews recive 1 kr. 31 0., in addition to their keep.
The value of the annual yield is 5 to 7 million kroner. As the fishermen
LOFOTEN ISLANDS. 31 . Route. 24:b
are paid in cash, the Norwegian banks send large suna of money to the
islands every February.
The fish arc carried ashore, and arc eilher merely opened ('op-
virket") and cleaned, or split entirely open ('Klipfisk', from klippet, split
open), salted, and spread out on the rocks to dry. They are then collect-
ed into heaps under small round wooden covers, known as 'hats', or are
tied tail to tail and hung ('spiPrret") upon wooden frames ('Hjelder').
They remain hanging until June and are then for the most part dispatched
to Bergen. The heads are dried by fire, pulverised, and converted into
'fish-guano". On some of the outlying islands the cod-heads are boiled
with sea-weed ('Tarre', Alaria esculenta) and used as fodder ('Lefpning'J
fur the cattle. The spawn is used as bait by anglers. Cod-liver oil is
made from the liver.
As may be supposed . it is not easy for the multitude which flocks
to the spring fishery to find accommodation. Must of the fishermen sleep
in temporary huts ('Rorbodcr'') erected for them. In the middle is the
fire-place ('Komfur"), where they cook their 'Supam^la' and 'Okjysta'.
Each boat's crew is called a 'Lag', who choose their own 'Hovedsmand'
or captain. The whole proceedings are usually very peaceable, especially
as spirits are not procurable. A travelling chaplain ('Stiftskaplan') per-
forms service on Sundays. At the close of the winter-fishery ('Gaatfisket')
most of the fishermen go N. to Finmarken for the 'Vaarfiske' ('summer
fishery') or the 'Loddefiske'.
The fishery is unfortunately often attended with great loss of life.
Thus when a westerly gale springs up, rendering it impossible to return
to the islands, the open boats are driven across the Vestfjord, and have
to make for the mainland, often capsizing on the way.
The soutli-'westernmost of the larger Lofoten Islands is the
Moskenaesflr, on -which lies Moskences with its church, a station of
the mail-steamers on Line III and of the local steamers. The S.
end of the island is called Lofotodden, past which runs the famous
Malstrem or Moskenstrem, a strong current often dangerous to
flshing-boats. Farther to the S. is the isletof3/o«A;en; then the Vare,
with church and parsonage; and the flat and populous island of
liegt. Still farther in this direction are Skomvcpr, with the last
lighthouse, and the sea-birds' haunt of Nykerne, populated chiefly
by gulls and guillemots. — Reine (Sverdrup's Hotel), the second
steamboat-station, is also situated on the Moskenffise.
On the E. side of the Moskenffse is the Sundstrem, which
Bcparates it from the Flakstad«, on which lie the stations ofSund
and Nufsfjord. On the W. side of the island is the church of Flak-
stad. Near Sund is the Kvalvig ('whale-creek'), a natural trap
for whales, which not unfrequeutly enter the narrow bay at high
tide and cannot turn to go out again.
On the E. side of the Flakstade is the Napstrem, separating it
from the large Vestvaag«r, on a small island at the S. end of which
lies the steamboat-station of Balsladj a considerable flshing-port,
backed by the Skotstinder. Vre, to the E. of the huge headland of
Urebjerget, and Stamsund (Stamsund's Hotel) are also steamboat
stations. Among the hills on the Vestvaage the beautiful iYimmei-
tinder (3165 ft.) are conspicuous. Good roads unite the villages on
the Vestvaage.
The tourist-steamers (p. 240) steer direct to the Gimsestrem,
246 Route 31. LOFOTEN ISLANDS.
the mountain-flanked strait between the Vestvaagc and the 0st-
vaag0, the largest of the Lofoten Islands. On the S.W. point of the
latter lies Henningsvser (Jensen's Hotel), with a guano-factory, a
station of the mail-steamers, one of the chief centres of the fishery
traffic, and residence of the naval officer who superintends it. Above
it towers the VaagekaUe (3078 ft.). Off the island lie the rocky
islets Flesene, Grundskallen, and Vestvar, all excellent fishing-
grounds. On the S. coast of the Ostvaage are the next stations,
Kalle and —
Eabelvaag (Jespersen's Hotel, very fair, adapted for a stay), the
largest fishing -station on the Lofoten Islands, near which are
Storvaagen and Kirkevaagen. The church of Vaagen was founded
at the beginning of the 12th century. Hans Egede, the missionary
of Greenland, was pastor here in 1705-18. A road leads from Kabcl-
vaag through fine rocky scenery to (1 V4 b'"-) ^ group of fishermen's
huts of Osan, opposite to Svolvaer, to which we may cross by ferry
in 1/4 hr. (50 0.).
Svolvser [Hotel Lofoten, good, pens. 5 kr. daily), situated on a
small island off the S. coast of the 0stvaag«', with guano-works,
another busy fishing-station, is also the most important steamboat-
station on the Lofoten Islands and is the starting-point of the
Lofoten and Vesteraalen local steamers (p. 243). British vice-consul,
Mr. Henry J. Church, at Brettesnss (see below). The studio of the
painter Gunnar Berg (d. 1894), containing a few paintings and
sketches, deserves a visit. The Svolvcerjuret (about 1970 ft.) may
be ascended in 3 hrs. (there and back 5 hrs.) ; the midnight sun is
visible from the top between May 28th and July 14th. The ascents
of the Gjeitgaljartind (3555 ft.), the Rulten (3483 ft.), to the N.W.
of the Ostnces fjord, and the Higrafstind (3811 ft.), to the N.E. of
the same fjord, are more laborious. — Opposite S^olvsr are the
islands of Skroven, with its lighthouse, Lille Molla, and Store
Molla, with the steamboat-station Brettesnas and a large English
guano-factory.
To the N. of Store Molla opens the Raftsund, separating the
0stvaag0 from the large and much ramified Hinde. At the S.W.
extremity of the latter lies the steamboat-station of Digermulen,
where good quarters may be obtained in the house of the Land-
handler (5 kr. per day). The tourist-steamers do not call here, but
passengers by the local boats should not omit to ascend the **Diger-
mulen (1150 ft.), which affords perhaps the most superb view in
the whole Nordland, and was visited by Emp. William II. in 1889.
Ascent I1/2 hr-; at tlie top are a varde and a refuge-hut (no rfmts.),
for which a key should be taken. (From this point a great Panorama
was taken by the painters Jos. Krieger and Adalb. Heine in 1887.)
We also obtain a beautiful survey of the Raftsund, on the E. side
of which, in the foreground, rises the Sneetind, connected with the
Digermulkollen, to the left of which are the distant hills of the
LOFOTEN ISLANDS. 31. Route. 2^1
Lang0 and the other Raftsund Mts. To the S.W. we overlook the
whole of the Vestfjord with the open sea beyond it, and to the E.
we see the mountains on the mainland. — An even more com-
prehensive view is obtained from the Sneetind (about 2300 ft.),
ascended by an easy path from Digermulkollen in 1 hr.; descent
to the shore 1*4 hr.
The *Raftsund, the grandest of the Lofoten straits, is enclosed
by huge mountains furrowed with ravines and covered with large
expanses of snow. As we enter we see to the left the lofty Kors-
ncEstind and the Rerhoptind. The si;ene is grandest at Lgksund,
where at the head of the **Trold fjord tower the snowy Troldtinder
(3421-3467 ft.) in several peaks. In flue weather the tourist-
steamers enter the Troldfjord, which is enclosed by almost per-
pendicular rocks with snow-flUed gorges. [A very interesting ex-
cursion (G hrs. there and back) may be made from Digermulen
(p. 246) by rowing over the Troldfjord and then ascending on foot,
by a marshy path, to the Troldvand, a mountain-lake almost always
frozeu (about SCO ft.), above which the Troldtinder rise almost
sheer for 3200 ft.]. Farther on the Raftsund is bounded on the W.
by the Svartsundtind (3506 ft.), the Fald fjeld , and the Nilsvig-
tinder, and on the E. by the Brabrektinder.
The local Vesteraalen steamer from Svolvter (p. 246) also traverses
the Raftsund. One of its stations is Melbo (Fredriksen's Hotel), on the
pleasant island of Ul/0., at the E. end of which lies the church ol' JJadsul.
It then steers to the N.W. to Steiie i Be on the I.ang0, an island with
numerous fjords, peninsulas, and isthmuses, which forms the chief part
of the W. Vesteraalen group and together with the Skogse contains live
parishes ('Fjerdinger'). The vessel then steers back to —
StokmarkncES, on the Vlt'0, and through the narrow Beresund to ^t>j<-
mes on the Hindt*. The Mesadel (3610 ft.), the highest summit on the
Uind0, is visible the whole way. Its glacier is said to be the saddle of a
persecuted giantess. Thence to the K. between the Lang0 and the Hind0
10 Sortland. Grand scenery, with attractive foreground.
At Sortland (Laudhandler's) on the Sorllandsund, we may land and
wait for the boat returning next day. Meanwhile we may row (in a
'Sexring') across the Sund to visit the 'Eiderholme' or hatcheries of the
eider-ducks (p. 123J). — Next station —
Skjoldeliavn (Landh:indler'sl, on the And0, an island interesting to
geologists only. From its extensive swamps, on which the 'Multeba-r'
(Rubus chamsemorus) abounds, abrupt hills rise to a height of 1970 ft.
The predominant sandstone and clay-slate formation is underlain by a
thick vein of coal, extending beneath the sea. The last station towards the
N. is Risehavn (laudhandler's) on the Andj2(, at which a local steamer from
Harstadhavn also calls once a week.
Opposite Skjoldehavn, beyond the Gavl/jord, lies Alfsvaa<j (I.and-
handler's) on the Langii*. The steamer then goes on to Langences, at the
N. end of the Langt(, and returns on the W. side.
Beyond Svolva;r the mail - steamers call at several stations
(varying on the different voyages) and at —
Ledinytn they join tlie route described at p. 248.
248
32. From Bod© to Tromsd.
•19 S. M. The followiug pages describe the course of the Mail Steameus
of 'Line IT from Bod0 to Ledingen. These vessels also touch at Svolvser
on the Lofoten Islands (comp. p. 213), but the rest of their course skirts
the mainland. From L0iiingen to 2roms0 the course of all the mail-steam-
ers almost coincides with that of the tnurist-stuamers. The mail-steamers
take 9-10 hrs. from Bod0 to Svolva-r, 7-8 hrs. more to Ledingen, and 3 hrs.
from L0dingen to Harstadhavn. From Harstadhavn to Tromse all the
vessels take about 10-12 hrs.
Bode, see p. 240. — The steamer heads W. from the harbour
and steers to the right through the strait between the small island
that protects the harbour and the larger Hjcerte. To the left opens
the Vestfjord (p. 243); and farther on, on the same side, rises
the mountainous island of Landegode (p. 243).
4 S. M. Kjcerringe lies to the S. of the Foldenfjord, the en-
virons of which are grand. The lower part of the mountains has
often been worn smooth by glacier-action, while their summits
are pointed and serrated like the Aiguilles of Mont Blanc. Tlie
Strandtind in particular (sketched by Prof. Forbes in his 'Norway')
has the form of an extinct crater. At the head of the Foldenfjord
rise other huge mountains, one of which, the Troldtind (first
ascended by C. Hall in 1889), resembles the Matterhorn.
The Foldenfjord divides into the Novdfolden and Sarf olden branches,
to both of which a Local Steamer plies from Bodt* in 10-12 hours.
Stations: A/yklebosiad, KJasrrinye, Leinces (on the Leinasfjord^ to the J(. of
Nordfolden), Nurdfolden, liesvik (quarters at the Landhandler's), and Dybvik
(at the end of S^rfolden). From Dybvik to Fiiske on the Salten/Jord,
see p. 242. Wild scenery. — From Si^rfolden the Leer/Jord diverges to
the N.E. ; from the Nordfolden diverge the Vinke/Jord , with its pro-
longation the Stav/jord, and the Merkesvikfjord.
Farther N. we pass through the Oissund, a very narrow strait,
the bottom of which is often seen through the green water, to —
5 S. M. Gr«t«. The mail- steamers of Line I steer hence
straight across the Vestfjord to Henningsvcer (see p. 246). Those
of Line II pass between Engelvcer, on the W., and the Slcotsfjord,
with the Skotstinder, on the E., steer to the E. into the Flagsund,
between the mainland on the S. and the Engele (Stegen) on the N.,
and stop at —
2 S.M. Boge. They then steer round the Engele, with the station
of Laskestad and the church of Stegen (2 M. to the W.), and cross
the mouth of the beautiful Sagfjord to —
2 S.M. Skutvik, on the Hammere, on which towers the pointed
Hammeretind. Farther on is the abrupt Tilthorn, first ascended by
C, Hall in 1889. Then through the 0xsund, between the Limde
and the Hammers, and out into the Vestfjord, in full view of the
superb Lofoten chain (p. 244).
5 S. M. Kabelvaag and Svolvcer, see p. 246.
The steamboats of Line II now steer back (E.) to the mainland.
6 S.M. Trane i Hammer, on a many-armed peninsula.
;«!Ogra|ih_ AiM^
llnf lish IGlcs
'rtraraii^e
r Dcbcs Ictpujj.
f^j^"^
HINDO - TROMSO -
LYNGENFJORO
\' LYNGENFJ
STJERNO
•S'
L0DINGEN. 32. Route. 249
3 S.M. h'orsnas, at the entrance ot'tlie Tysfjord, on whicli a local
steamer plies to Kjehsvig. Tlie chief arms of the Tysflord are the
Uellemofjord and ihcBotn fjord (extending to within 12 Kil. of the
Swedish frontier), the Grundfjord , the Manfjord^ and the pictur-
esque Slcdpord, above which rises the Stedtind. The curious shape
of this flat-topped mountain, with its sheer left side, is well seen
from Ledingen.
From jl/«j*en, near the head of the Helleniofjord, a route leads hy Kraakmo,
situated between the 4th and 5th of the seven S(igva7!(ie, to Temmernws
on the Sagfjord; another to Ilopeii on the Kordfoldcnfjord (p. 248). —
From Kraakmo (excellent quarters) we may ascend the huge Kraak-
motind, and make an excursion by the 5th, 6th, and 7th Sagvand (the boat
being dragigcd across the iathmuaes) to the magnificent primeeval forest on
the 7th lake. From Kraakmo to TefnimernEes on the Sagfjord (17 Kil.) we
row down the four lower Sagvande. Near the fjord is a waterfall 50 ft.
high. — Another route crosses the picturesque Dragseid from Drag on the
Tvsfjord to the Sagfjord, the steamboat-stations nearest which arc Boge and
frane (p. 24S).
Beyond Korsn.'es the steamers of Lines I & II enter tlio Ofoten-
fjord, the geological continuation of the Yestfjord, and touch at
Narvik or Victoriahavn (Hotel), the terminus of the Oj'oten Rail-
way, where a new town with extensive quays is springing up and
already contains about 5000 inhabitants.
Fkom Nakvik to the Swkpish Fhon'tier (for Oellirara), 241/2 5I-, rail-
way (the Norwegian part of the Ofoten Route, opened in 1903; see p. 403)
in about 2 hrs. (at present trains ran only thrico a week; express train
to Stockholm every Friday). The line ascends sharply (1 : 5'^) over bridges
and viaducts and through numerous tunnels to the crest of the hill (1443ft.),
crosses the Sordrd^ which slopes down to the Rombakcnfjord (see below),
by an iron bridge ca. 200 yds. long, and reaches the station ot Rikfgranscn
(p. 403). — This railway traverses important mining districts, and it is
calculated that I'/j millii'n tons of ore will be carried per annum.
The steamers then return via Kjee to Ledingen, which is reached
direct by the steamers of Line III.
1 S.M. (2'2 S.M. from Bode) Lj»dingen, an important telegraph
station (comp. p. 235), with a church and parsonage, picturesquely
situated on a peitinsula of the Hinde, which is here separated from
the Tjalle and the mainland by the Tjallsund.
The Ofotenfjord is also traversed by local steamers, which touch at
Balangen, on the I'ertilo but rather tame S. shore, inhabited only by Lapps;
at Lidland, on the N. liank, and at Victoriahavn (see above) and Fag ernoes,
on the K. liank. The grandest scenery on this fjord is to be found in its
E. recesses, particularly the Rombakcnfjord (herring-fishery) and the Beis-
fjord (Fagcrna's), between which rise the Telia (4921 ft.; easily ascended)
and the Yointind. The I.andhandler at Fagernas provides a guide.
To the S. from the Ofotenfjord diverges the Skjomenfjord, at the
end of which lies Elvegaard (good quarters). A route to Sweden leads
hence through the Surdal, passing the old copper-mines of (S/.7a»?W (38Kil.).
The finest sccnei-y here, however, is on the W. arm of the Skjomenfjord,
at the end of which is fkjomho/n, backed by Fivftinen (to the W.), with
its enormous glaciers. The sides of this mountain, rising 4265 It. sheer out
of the sea, have been worn perfectly smooth by the descending masses of ice.
The next stage is less interesting. AVc steer past the E. side
of the Hinde throtigh the Tjallsund, which afterwards expands
into the Yaagsfjord.
250 R.32. — Mnp,p.24S. SALANGENFJORD. From Bode
4 S. M. Sandlon-; 2 S. M. Grcesholmen, both on the Hinde.
2 S. M. Harstad or Harstadhavn (Central Hotel, R. II/2, I>- ^ kr. ;
Hotel Nord'ttjernen), the first station in Tromse Amt, on a fertile
hill on the N. E. side of the Hinde, is an attractive and pros-
perous place. The stoamers lie alongside the quay. The tourist-
steamers halt here for about 3 hours. A drive may be taken to a
neighbouring Lapp Encampment (comp. p. 253), and on the return
a visit may be paid to the famous old church of Tlirondcnas (1 V4 M.
to the N. of Harstad) , in the middle ages the northernmost in
Christendom. The drivers demand 3-4 kr. per head for this drive;
as there are plenty of carriages, travellers should decline to be
crowded.
Harstad is a station of the Troms0-Amt steamers to Riseliavn (p. 247)
in the Vesteraalen group.
To the N. we see the pointed mountains of the Gryte , and in
the distance the Senjehest, the S. headland of Senjen (p. 251).
The tourist-steamers steer to the N.E. across the Vaagsfjord. Here,
before the middle of July, we have an opportunity of seeing the mid-
night sun (p. 232). Between the Gryto and the Senjehest appears
in the distance the Vesteraalen island Auder (p. 247). To the E.
tower the abrupt Aarbodstiiid and the Faxtind (see below). — The
mail-steamers steer S.E. from Harstad to the Rolde and iuto the
A ^ta fjord to —
4 S. M. Huvnvik, on the Rolde. Near it is the church of Jbe-
ftad, which, like that of ThrondenaeSjis of stone and vaulted, while
all the other churches in Tromse-Stift are of timber. To the S.E.,
on the mainland, towers the Messetlnd (3317 ft.), and to the S. of
it the SkavUkollen (3297ft.), both of which may be ascended, with
a guide, the first from the Gratangenfjord, the second from the
Grai^fjord.
The scenery is grand.as we steam through the *Salangenfjord
and the Mjesund, between the Andorje a,nA the mainland, through
which the tourist -steamers pass on their return-voyage. On the
mainland lie the stations of Lavangnas and Seveien, also touched
at by a local steamboat from Tromse. Immediately to the W. on the
Mjesuud rises the huge AarbodHind (3855 ft.), with a large glacier
and a waterfall, and to the E. the pointed Faxtind (3995 ft.).
The scenery is still more impressive at —
4 S.M. Kastnashavn, whence all these mountains, including
the pinnacle of the Faxtind, are seen at once, while the horizon
to the W. is bounded by the mountains of Ande and others. To
the W. lies the Dyre, with the Dyresund.
4 S.M. Kleven, on the island of <Se7jJcn, (648 sq. M.). Large
quantities of 'Kveitcr' (Hippoglossus maximus; lialibut) are caught
here and dried in the open air. The fat fins are called 'rav', the
flesh of the back 'ra?kling'. A single fish sometimes attains a length
of 7-10 ft. and more than fills a barrel. To the S.E. rise the snow-
toTromse. MALANGENFJORD. M'ip.p.i>d8.~3-2.R. 251
clad Ghirraga^-Tjokko, or /.<h'n'/er (486r)ft.). — The next station is
Finsnces. on the mainland , pleasantly situated on the Finfjord^
whence a new road leads to the N'., past the Finfjordvand^ to Guld-
hav in the Maalselv-Dal (p. 'iol).
3 S. M. Gibostad (telegraph, comp. p. 235) is also in the island
of Senjen. We steer between the island and the mainland. Tlic
shores are green, wooded, and tolerably well peopled, and tlie
pretty scenery is backed by snow-mountains. — Farther on, on the
mainland, to the right, appear the white church and the parsonage
of Lenvik; to the left rise the rugged mountains at the N. end of
the island of Senjen ; and ahead appears the Lille Blaamand on the
Kval0 (p. 252).
The tourist-steamers and the mail- steamers of Line II cross
the Malangenfjord; those of Lines I and III steer into it to the
S.E. to Maalsnaes. This fjord, which formed the N. frontier of
Norway in the middle ages, is enclosed by high mountains. To
the S.W. , S., and S.E. it sends off four deep inlets, of which the
steamer affords a view. To the S. rise the snowy mountains of the
Maalselvdal, and the snow peaks on the Lyngentjord are visible
to the E. The steamer does not enter these inlets, of which the
longest are the Nordfjord and Auerfjord, but touches at —
5 S.M. Maalsmvs (Pedersen's Hotel), on a promontory near the
mouth of the Maals-Elv. Maalsn£es is a good starting-point for
excursions to the Maalselvdal and the Bardudai, inhabited chiefly
by colonists from the 0sterdal and the Gudbraudsdal, the first of
whom settled here in 1796.
The following tour includes the Maalselvdal and the Bardudai;
ist day, from JIaalsnDes to 0vcrby or Kongslid; 2nd day, ascend the
Rostafjeld; 3rd day, to Kirkemoen in the Bardudai; 4th day, to S0veicn.
1. TiiRouc.ii THE Maalselvdal to the IIostavanp. We drive (fast
stations as far as Eakkehaug) past Jlollandernccs, where the Dutch attempted
to f.iund a settlement in the 17th cent, a^rainst the will of the Ilanseatic
merchants (p. 118). This is alluded to by Peter Dass: —
Wfen der denne Handel lidi hunge paasfod,
Da hlcv del de ISergenske Kjelnnmnd imod,
IloUrendeme maatle iig pakke.'' »
(But their trade was soon brought to a close
By the merchants of Bergen, their foes;
And the Diitchmen were forced to be off.)
The lirst slatiun in this picturesque valley is (tt Kil.) Guldhav. The
road then leads past the church of MartUelveii to (U Kil.) Moen (sood iiuar-
ters at Unys Enke's). The grand mountain facin;^ us is the Qhirvagas
TJokko, or Js/hider (see above), resembling a crater. An excellent point
of view is Lille Mauket (1850 ft.), near Moen. (The rest of this route lies
beyond the limits of our Map.)
Passing several small stations, and then (ISKil.) Bakkehaug and (12 Kil.)
Xcergaard (slow station), with its small church, we arrive at (fvevby (poor
<iuarters ; slow station), which, with the Nordgaard, lies at the confluence
of the Maals-Elv and the Tabmok-Elv. (Through the valley of the latter a
route leads to the Balsfjord and Lyngenfjord; p. 255.) Al)ove the Rostavand
rises the huge Rostafjeld (5110 ft.), the accent of which is not dit'fleult.
and may even be n)adc by mountaineers without a guide. We ride to the
gaard of Kongslid (good quarters), whence the ascent is made through a
252 R. 3'J. — Map, p. 248. TROMS0. From Bode
small valley on the E. side. Wild reindeer sometimes seen. Opposite the
Rostafjcld, to the S., rise Ihe Likkavarre (i895 ft.), Ruteii (4385 ft.), Alap
(4956 ft.), and ScuHvarre (Kamn(es/jelcl); to the H.E. the Likkafjeld; to
the E., quite near, the Brailifjeld.
1. From Moen to S^veien. Moen, see p. 251. The next .«tation is
(17Kil.) Sundli, in the Bardudal. Before reaching Sundli we diverge to
the left to Fosmoen and the Bardvfos, a fine waterfall of thcBardu-Elv. To
the left rise the Islinder (p. 251), the W. peak of which may be ascended.
— 23 Kil. Scelevmoen. The road in the Bardudal, uninteresting, goes on to
Viken and the Altevand, where the Guolagcnrro (or Kiste/Jeld , 5660 ft.)
rises on the N. and the Rokomhorre (5350ft.) on the S. — Our route, a
good carriage - road , crosses the hill called Kohberyggen to (10 Kil.)
Brandvold, leads past the Nedre Vatid to Vashoved, and lastly to (17 Kil.)
Seveien (p. 250).
3. From the Maalsei.vdal to the Balsfjord. Of several routes the
easiest (with guide; 1 day's walk) is from Olsborg, a little to the N. of the
station Moen, to Storstennas (good quarters at the Landhandler's; not to he
confounded with the group of hou.«es opposite Troms0 mentioned on p. 253),
from which //(i»»n(r« (good quarters), neap the S.E. end of the fjord, may
he reached by boat (4 kr.) in I'/'j hr. Hence we may take the steamer
on the Balsfjord, on the E. bank of which arc mountains 5000 ft. high,
to Troms0. Or we may proceed via, Nordkjos^ at the head of the fjord,
and J0vregaard, and through woods and over pastures, tn the Lapp settle-
ment of Mcclen, and thence across two rivers (horse sometimes to be
obtained at Mrclcn) to Halteng, at the S. end of the Lyngenfjord (p. 255),
6-7 hrs. from Havunirs.
Leaving the Malaiigenfjord, we steam past the huge Bensjord-
tind (4085 ft.), with its expanses of snow, on the right, and the
large island Kvale on the left , where in the foreground rise the
snow-clad rocks of the Lille Blaamand (2625 ft.). On the S. coast
of the island, between Buvik anA Mjelde, several old coast-lines
(p. xxxiii) may he recognized. The Bl<iamand itself (3280 ft. ), the
highest hill in the island, rises on our left farther on. We steer in-
to the Tromsesund, about 550 yds. broad. Behind us the Bensjord-
tind remains in sight till we enter the harbour of Tromsc. To the N.
we see the snow-clad Skulgamtinder on the Ringvadse; to thcE. we
look up the Tromsdal, with the Tromstind in tlie background. The
current in the Tronisesund alters its direction according to the tide.
7 S.M. (19 from Harstad) Troms«r. — Grand-Hotel, a new and
comfortable hinse, opposite the Post Oflice and near the quay, R. 2, B. l'/-.',
D. 2, S. i'/.' kr. ; Hotel Norden, in the same street, near the large church,
well spoken of. — Confectioner (German), Wohnhas. Nordre-Strand-(;aden.
British VicE-CoNsuL, Mr.J.H. GJavcr; Lloyd's Agent, Mr. C.Holmboe.
— Fdrs (polar-bears' skins, etc.) at M. Nielten^t, Stor-Gaden. — Goldsmith,
Clans Andersen, near the pier. — Lapp Costumes, etc., at Figentchmi's,
near the quay.
Steamers. Several well-appointed local steamboats ('Tromser-Aints-
Dampskibs-Selskab') ply from Troms0 to the Ulfs/jord, Lyngenfjord, Reisen-
fjord, and Kvenangsfjord, also to Harstad, the Balsfjord. Ofotenfjord, etc.
AH the large Nordland steamers also call here. Troms0 is therefore a good
centre for excursions.
Tromse, a town of 7000 inhab. , with several churches and
schools, the seat of an Amtmand and a Bishop, lies on the island
of that name, in 69" 38' N. latitude. It was raised to the rank of
a town in 1794, and is a busy trading place, exporting large quan-
to Tromne. TROMS0. Map, p.24S.—32.R. 253
titles of dried and smoked herrings and other fish, train-oil, fur, etc.
Troinsa trades largely with Uussia and flts up many vessels for the
capture of seals and walruses.
In the market-place ('Torvet') are the Town Hall and the Roman
Ciitholic Church. In the S. part of the town is the large timber-
built Protestant Church. On a hill outside the town is the hand-
some Mr«eum('Museet' ; adm. 50 ».), completed in 1894, containing
admirably arranged natural history and ethnographical collections.
— The town lies on a gentle slope, planted with mountain-ashea.
wild cherry-trees, aiul birches, which attain a surprising size and
lux<niauce.
Above the town is a pleasant grove of birches, adjoined by the
Alfheim (no alcoholic liquors), a public pleasure-garden, where all
Tronis«r assembles in the evening, and by numerous villas. We
ascend beside the Sparebank, and turn to the left at the fork of the
road. The right branch leads to the Prastevand, a small lake which
supplies the town with water. — The road to the Charloilenlund
also affords a pretty walk. We ascend from the Torv, then follow
the road which leads to the right above the Town Hall, and tlnally
turn to tlie left.
An "^'Excursion to thk Tromsbal , for the sake of seeing a
Lapp settlement, takes 3-4 hrs., there and back. We row (usu-
ally direct from the steamer) across the strait to Storsiennas (not
to be confounded with the place of that name on the Balsfjord), at
tlie entrance to the Tromsdal. The path up the valley cannot be
mistaken (2/4 hr.). Tlie ground is rough and marshy at places.
(Carriages or horses are extremely dear.) We pass through a
birch-wood on the S. bank of the brawling stream, and at length
reach a kind of basin, with the Tromstind rising on the E., con-
taining the Lapp Encampment, a colony of a few Lapp families
from Swedish Lapplandt. Their dwellings, called 'Darfe Goattek'
or ^Oaininer, are, in summer, round canvas tents stretched upon
birch-poles, and in winter dome-shaped huts, formed of stone or
clay, with round openings at the top for the exit of smoke and the
admission of light. Each hut always has its lire, over which hangs
a pot or kettle. The hearth is called 'aran', and the seat of honour
beside it 'boasso'. The family sleep on one side of the tire, the
+ In accordance with the frontier-treaty nf 7th/18th Oct., 1751, the
Swedish Lapps are entitled to nu;;rate to the Norvve;iian coa.st in summer,
and the Norwegian Lapps to Sweden in winter. These migrations lead
to frequent disputes with the permanent inhabitants. The number of
Lapps in Norway is estimated at 18,00(), of whom 17(.)0 are still nomadic.
Sweden and Russia contain l'J,(XX) more. The powerful race which once
dominated Scandinavia has thu.s dwindled to 30,000 souls. The Lapp.i
now intermarry freely with Norwegians and Finns. In Norway they are
often called Finner, while the Finns are named Kvaner, from the 'liiu'
of Kajana in Finland. From the fact that the dog alone has a genuine
Lapp name ('Biednag"), while the other domestic animals have names
of (iermanic or Finnish origin, it has heen concluded that tlie Lapps
254 R.32.-^Map,p.248. FL0IFJELD.
servants on the other. These Lapps possess a herd of 2000-3000
reindeer, -which graze on the adjoining hills. Of these a few
liiindred are collected to show to visitors. While this is being done
the Lapps offer fur-hoots ('Skal-Komager', or 'Skaller'), spoons
of reindeer-horn, and other articles for sale. The peculiar crackling
of the animal's hoofs reminds one of the sound produced by an
electric battery. The reindeer are caught by a kind of lasso
thrown over their horns. They are milked twice a week only.
The rich and rather gamy milk, one of the Lapp's chief articles of
diet, is diluted with water before use. 'The milk is strong and
thick, as if it had been beaten up with eggs' (Scheffer's Lapponica,
1675). The cheese made of it is chiefly reserved for winter use. —
On the way back from the Tromsdal we obtain a beautiful view of
Troms0 with its green hills and the snow-mountains of the Kvale
(p. 252) and the Ringvadse (see below) beyond.
The Fl^ifjeld (2600 ft.), a moss-clad rocky liiU, rising from the sea
opposite Troms0, on the S. side of the entrance to the Tromsdal, is an
excellent point of view (about 2'/2 hrs. to the top). The path diverges from
the Tromsdal route to the right, a few minutes from Storstennas, beyond
the houses. It soon becomes steep, and ends halfway up, beyond which
we ascend over meadows (rich polar flora) and loose stones, and partly
over snow. The top is marked by a large iron vane. We may, with caution,
descend direct (though no path) to the Lapp camp (p. 253).
The Tromsdalstind (4085 ft. ; guide from Troms0 4 kr.) may be ascended
from the Lapp camp in 3-4 hours. We walk to the (1 hr.) head of the valley,
which ends in a great basin like thdse in the Pyrenees ; then ascend the
steep slope to the left, at first over turf and afterwards over snow (snow
spectacles desirable). Herds of reindeer sometimes graze here. Before reach-
ing the crest of the hill we have to scale a very steep snow-field. The final
ascent, over snow and detritus, is easier. The top, marked by a varde,
commands the magnificent scenery of the Ulfsfjord and the glacier-chain
on the Lyngenfjord; to the W. stretches the Arctic Ocean beyond Troms0
and the Kval0. On the E. side the mountain falls almost sheer to a neck
of land between the Ulfsfjord and the BaUfjord (Ramfjofd).
33. From Tromsia to the North Cape.
46 S.M. The Express Steamers (p. 229) take 12 hrs. from Troms0 to
Hammerfest; Mail Steamboat to Hammerfest in 16-18 hrs. (comp. pp. 229,
230). — The Tourist Steamers leave Troms0 in the evening, reach the
Fugle about midnight and Hammerfest the following morning, and are off
the North Cape in the evening.
The steamer steers N. through the Tromsesund, and N.E.
through the Gretsund. To the left lies the mountainous Ringvadse
(with a glacier and a lake formed by a moraine) ; then the Reine,
were originally a race of hunters , who adopted the nomadic life within
the historic period. On this theory the reindeer, now the mainstay of the
Lapp, was at first an object of the chase only.
Among the numerous works on the Lapps may be mentioned: Mil-
ford''s 'Norway and her Laplanders', 1842; EveresCs '.Journey through
Norway, Lapland, etc.'', 1829; O. von Diiben's 'Om Lappland och Lapparne\
StocklKjlm, 1873; Friis's 'En Summer i Finmarkeir, Kristiania, 1871;
Friis''s 'Lappisk Mythologi og Lappiske Eventyr', Kristiania, 1871;
./. VahVs 'Lapperne, etc.', 1866; /■'. YincenCs 'Norskj Lapp, and Finn', 1835;
CutcUffe Hi/ne's 'Through Arctic Laplan.r, 189v
LYNGENFJORD. Map,p.24S. — 33.R. 255
at the S.'W. en<l of which lies Fmkroken. The steamers some-
times pass throu^ii the Laiiiifjord , between the Ringvadse and
the Keine. On the mainland, opposite Finroken, towers the Vlfs-
ilnd (3280 It.) , posted like a sentinel at the mouth of the *Ulfs-
fjord, which here opens to the S., running inland for 50 Kll., and
parallel with the Lyngenfjord. We obtain , in passing, a superb
view of the snowy and ice-girt mountains of the Lyngen peninsula
(p. 250), the Jcrgervandstinder (4920-5580 ft.) with the Goalzagaine
(4440 ft.), and to the right of them the FornceHtind (5660 ft.).
Uu llie tnfsfjord a steamer from Trom80 plies once weekly. Fn m
the .station of Jsegervand (good quarters at Christophersen's) a visit may
1)6 paid to the lake of that name, beyond which rise the massive Ja»ger-
vandstinder. [From the S. end of the lake (12 Kil. in length) a difficuU
l)Ut interesting pass leads p;ist the TroUvand to (4 hrs.l Storstennces , whence
we may skirt the Kjosenfjiud to (3 hrs.) Kjosen (see below).] — At Gjevik
the steamer enters the inlet of Kjosen, enclosed by huge glacier-covered
mountains. From Kjosen, the terminus (colVee, bread, and heer at the
postnuister'.s) a road leads across the 'Eid' or isthmus 13 ft. broad and
'.260 ft. high to Lyngen (see p 256). — The steamer does not enter the S.
part of the Ulfsfjord, which is named the Serfjord.
The next station of the mail-steamers is the little island of
(8 S.M.) Karlse, beyond which the Fuglesund to the left leads be-
tween the Vanne and the Arm out to the open Arctic Ocean. The
tourist-steamboats steer a little way down the Sund to await the
**MiDNiGHT Sun, which, to those who have the rare fortune to see
it unclouded, presents a glorious spectacle. Across the blue, yellow,
and silver shimmering sea appears in the foreground the rocky Fugle
(2572 ft.), tlie sharp outline of which recalls Capri; to the left of
it in the background, just above the horizon, hangs the red and
gold disk of the sun. Tliis beautiful scene is even more impressive
than the view from the North Cape. At times, however, fog or the
storms of the Arctic Ocean mar or blot out the scene. The milk-
white mist often lies on the surface of the water only, while the
sky is briglit and sunny. Iti this case the steamer casts anchor,
and passengers will have leisure to observe the peculiar white
'Skoddebuer' or fog-bows.
On the islet of Skaure, which lies outside the Vann0, is a Whaling
Station, with a train-oil factory, of the Anglo-Norwegian F^ishing Co..
whose headquarters are at TromsK. If a whale has been recently captured
(which the captain learns at Troms0), the tourist-steamer steers to the spot.
The smell is perceptible from afar, and tlie sea is covered with oily refuse.
Presently we come in sight of the slaughtered cetacean and the skeletons of
former victims. Passengers (who wish) are rowed ashore. The stony banks
are covered with grease. A full-grown whale (i. e. 65-100 tt. long, and 20-
100 tons in weight) is rarely seen, the chase being so hot and the yield so
valuable that the leviathan is generally doomed to die before he attains a
length of more than 1.0 20 ft. ; and even at this early stage he is said to
he worth 3000 kr. or more. .Stomach permitting, we may look into the
boilery, and perhaps buy a whale's ear (3-5 kr.), fin (1 kr.), or other sou-
venir. — The whale-fishery is carried on by small steamers, which shoot
their harpoons from small cannon in their bows.
To the S. opens the '^''Xyngenfjord, where the mail and local
steamers (p. 251)) call, and also llie tourist-steamers on tlioir way
256 R.33. — Map,p.248. liYNGEN. From Tromse
back from the North Cape. The Lyngen peninsula , which is
bounded on the VV. by the Ulfsfjord and on the E. by the Lyngeu-
fjord, and ends in the bold headland of Lynystueri, is wholly oc-
cupied by snow and ice-clad mountains of thoroughly Alpine char-
acter, rising immediately from the sea. The last peak to the N. is
the Fipertind (4042 ft.), on the N. shoulder of which lies a broad
*Glacier, embedded between several peaks. Next to the Pipertind
is the Storsknal, separated by snow-filled gorges from the Vagas-
tind ; and next to these peaks, beyond another gorge, is the Ren-
dnlstind. A glacier descends almost to the sea. Behind rise the
Jirgervnndstiniler (p. 255), also with large glaciers. The vessel steers
close under the almost sheer cliffs, which are familiarly known as
Smerslahben (butter- slices), from their parti-coloured horizontal
strata. The opposite bank of the fjord is also mountainous and partly
covered with snow. Opposite the islet of Aareholm rises the Ool-
borre to the W. and the Fastdalstind to the S.W. Farther on, op-
posite the mouth of the Kaafjord , tower the great Kjostlnder
(5414 ft.). We round a headland, and, about 2 hrs. from the en-
trance to the fjord, reach the terminus of the tourist-steamer —
Lyngen or Lyngseidet , residence of a pastor, a doctor, and a
Lensmand. p]xcellent quarters and fare (including wine and beer)
are to be had at Anton Gjaver's, the Landhandler's (intending
visitors must telegraph or telephone from Tromsa beforehand).
After so long a voyage in an inhospitable region, the little church
peeping from among birch-clad hills, and backed on both sides by
snow-mountains, is specially attractive. To the S. of the valley,
through which the road leads to the W. to (8/4 hr.) Kjosen (p. 255),
rises the Ooalsevarre (^iibO ft.). At the foot of the mountain, about
1/2 M. from Lyngen, is a large Lapp settlement.
Lyngseidet, which is called at live times a week by steamers from
TromsiT (once by the mail-steamer of Line II, twice by the Lyngenfjord
steamer, and twice by the Ulfjord boat via Kjosen, 4 Kil. distant), is a
centre for -Excursions in the Lyngen District. Mr. Gjifiver will procure
land and boat skyds, but guides are difficult to get. Petersen's geological
survey map of the Troms/zr-Amt and the BeskriveUe af Tromse-Amt (1 kr.),
published liy the 'Geografiske Opmaaling" in Christiania, will be found
most useful. Some patience is required in dealing with the sluggish but
priiud peasantry of the district. The traveller who seeks accnmmodation
from them must deposit his luggage before the door, and must wait until
his request is answered with a 'Velkom' and a handshake before he oau
consider himself an accepted guest. About l'/-2 kr. is given per day. Less
ceremony is required with the Lapps.
Robust mountaineers can ascend the GoaUevarre (see above) in 4 hrs.
without a guide; a porter (2 kr.) may be taken from the Lapp encampment
where the ascent liegins; walkers should keep to the left of the brook
(without crossing). The view from the top embraces the Lyngenfjord to
the S. and the Kjostinder to the N. — An excursion of G-7 hrs. may be
made to the mountain -basin enclosed by the Goalsevarre, the Rernccs-
linder (ca. 41CX) ft.), and the Jerlind (ca. 3600 ft.). — This is a fine excursion
for one day: across the Eid (200 ft.) to (4 Kil.) Kjosen (p. 255); row to the
(I hr.) Foriicesdal, and walk up that valley (fatiguing; guide indispensable),
crossing old morain<!3, to the " Fornccsdal-Brce, which descends between
the Fovnicatind and the UiirmaciUtind from the Ool^evaggegciisxa.
to the .\orih Cape. SKJ^ltV0. Map, p. -JdH. — 3.3. li. 257
The following toitr takes IV2 day: drive to the S. to (12 Kil.; fare
3 kr.) I'ollcn. then row to Dalen (primitive qiiarters); next day walk up
the beautiful but uninhabited Li/iigdal, passing the Jwijycvarre (6285 ft. j
on the N., to the (2','2 hr?.) great glacier descending from the main plateau
(lower end 1300 ft. above the sea). From the Lyngsdal we may also ascend
the NJalavarye (5010 ft.) to the S. (fine view of the JKggevarre glaciers),
or walk to the N. to the glaciers of the Ruksisvaggegaissa.
Another interesting excur.sion may be made to the E. to the Kaafjord,
where the local boats also call. Good quarters at the house of Christian
Wiissmuth in Langnoes. Six waterfalls, about 3000 ft. high, fall from the
steep clilTs of the inner Kaafjord. The inhabitants of this district are so-
called '8ea Lapps', who have abandoned nomadic life and maintain thcui-
selves by fishing and cattle-rearing. From the steamboat-station BirlavaiTn,
at the end of the fjord, a carriage-road ascends the Kaafjcvddal to (ca. 10 31.)
the Bit tararra Gruttr, a large copper-mine. Near Skalvold are some inter-
esting coast-lines (p. xxxiv).
The Troms0-Amt steamer goes on to the S. of Lyngen to the market
village of Skibotten (fair quarters at Antonie iJr(5cA\«), at the mouth of a
river (good tishing), with a good view of the Njalavarre, and thence to
Kvesmenixs or Hatteng (good quarters at Hans Kiil'f), finely situated at the
head of the Stor/jord, as the S. part of the Lyngenfjord is called. The
names of the surrounding mountains are: on the N.E., the truncated cone
of the Hatten, on the S.E., the jagged ridge of the Mand/jeld, and on the
S., the Ottertind. — From Hatteng to llavnnas on the Balsfjord, 6-7 hrs.
(.'ec p. 252); a horse, for fording the streams, should be hired as far as
Malen.
On their way N. both tourist and mail steamers (which last touch
at different stations on each of their different routes) pass the
Lyngenfjord and steer between the Arne and the picturesque
*Kaag0 (3906 ft.), with its glacier, into the Kaaysund. On the left
at the exit of the Kaagsund is the Lege, on the right is —
0 S.M. SkJ8erv« (good quarters at Lnndhandler Kui's), lying on a
bay on the W. side of the island of the same name. It has a <;hurch,
a po.st and telegraph office, and a physician. Nanseu's sliip , the
Fram, under Gapt. Sverdrup, anchored liore on Aug. 20th, 1890, on
its return from its three years' voyage to the polar regions.
To the S.E. we see tlie pointed Kvenangstinder on the Kvciving-
fjord, the mouth of which we pass. From the peninsula on the E.
side of the Kvenangfjord , where the land is deeply indented by
fjords on every side, rises the Jekelfjeld, from which a ghacier de-
scends to the Jekelfjord. The steamer now crosses the open sea.
('Lophavet') towards the N,, to —
5 S.M. Loppen, the first station in Finmarkens-Amt, with its
little church , its turf-covered parsonage, and a merchant's house.
All that grows here is a few potatoes, nothing else surviving the
storms which often rage for weeks. — The steamer steers S. into
the Bergsfjord, rounds the wedge-shaped island ot Silden, and
stops at —
3 S.M. Bergsfjord, on theE. side of the fjord. Grand scenery.
In the background is a glacier of the Jeikelfjeld, the discharge of
which forms a waterfall. Passing Lersnas, we steer to the S.E. to —
3 S.M 0ksfjord , on the Alnas-Njarga peninsula, in a noble
^Amphitheatre of mountains, conspicuous in which is a glacier to
Jjaedekek's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 17
2bS li. 33. — Map,p.24&. KAKASJOK. From Tronuse
the W., descending from the great Jekeltjcldd). 267). To the N.
is the small church.
The Alten/jord, which opens to the B., may be visited from 0kstjord
by means of a local steamer which plies to it from Hammerfest.
The Altenfjord is remarkable fur its rich vegetation; even -M Komaff-
fjonl to the N. foliage-trees and wild strawberries are found. In literature,
"too, it has been made known by the visits of many eminent explorers
(L. von Buch, Prof. Forbes, Keilhau, Ch. Martins, and others), and ils
lofty ancient coast-lines (p. xxxiv) add to its scientific interest. The chief
mountains, all on the W. side, are Kaaven (3130 ft.), between the Stjernsund
and the Langfjord, Akkasolki (3395 ft.), between the Langfjord and Talvik,
and Ilaldi (3030 ft.; Prof. Birkeland\s station for the observation of the
aurora borealis), between Talvik and the Kaafjord. At the end of the
fjord, above Kaafjord, rises the Nuppivavre (2675 ft.). — On the E. side
of the Altenfjord is the interesting Aare ^ with the scanty ruins of the
olA iovi >A AUenhus, while on the mainland is the trading-station o{ Jupvik,
near which potatoes flourish. In .July the temperature here is sometimes
93° Fahr. In the neighbourhood of Jupvik is a small but picturesque
'bird-mountain\
The steamer steers from 0ksfjord through the Stjernsund, between
the Sljerne and the mainland, and past the mouth of the Langfjord, to —
Talvik ('pine-bay'), a pretty spot, with a church. Then to Siremsnces
on the Kaafjord, whence we may visit Kaafjovds Kobbervwfk, a small
copper -mine. Next —
Bossekop ('whale-bay'; bosso, Lappish for 'whale'; good quarters),
with the church of Allen, at the foot of the Kong shavnfj eld (705 ft.), about
4 Kil. to the E. of the mouth of the salmon-river Alten-Elv. Important
fairs are held here on 1st Dec. and 3rd March, to which Lapps flock in their
curious sledge-boats. They bring reindeer-flesh, butter, and game (some-
times as many as 10,CKX) ptarmigan) which they exchange for fish, flour,
and groceries.
Fkom Bo.ssekop to Vads0 via Kaeasjok, 6-7 days. A guide (vapptts,
pilot) who understands Lappish is necessary. Travelling equipment, see
pp. xxiv, 266. The first half of the journey is accomplished on horseback.
Beyond the AUengaard the route crosses the Alten-Elv, and leads inland,
to the S.E. We pass a number of 'sieidi', or sacred stones ('sieidi-gergi',
oracle stones; several at the end of the Komj shavnfj eld, projecting into the
Altenfjord), and 'sacred mountains' ('basse varek').
The first night is generally spent in the Jodkasiue or Romsdalssine, by
the small lake oi Jodkajavre (about 45 Kil. from Bossekop). — Farther on
we observe to the N.E. the Vtiorie-Tjokk, a bare conical mountain, and to
the E. the Vuolla-Njunnes , once famous places of sacrifice. The country
is mostly wooded , and the valleys are often very picturesque. We next
reach the large lake of Jesjavre (1595 ft.) , which we either skirt or cross
by boat, and then descend the valley of the rapid, but navigable Jesjokk
to i'h^ Mollesjoksttie, the second 'Fjeldstue' or refuge, about 40 Kil. beyond
the Jodkastue. — We then cross the (jeld to (35 Kil.) the third station, the
Zaurisstue, on the Zarijokjavre. Hence we either proceed direct, by the
Qeiino Javve, to (25 Kil.) Karasjok, or go first to (16 Kil.) the Kavasjokka
('rapid river') and descend on its left bank to (16 Kil.) Karasjok.
Karasjok (440 ft.; Fandreni's Hotel), with about 300 settled inhab., has
a church and a large school-house, and is a good place for seeing life
among the Lapps. — The remainder of the journey is made by boat. About
15 Kil. farther to the E. the Karasjokka unites with the Anarjokka. The
combined rivers form the Tana-Elv, the right bank of which is Russian.
At Levvajok , halfway to Polmak , a new 'Fjeldstue'' has been built, in
which the night may be spent. On the second day the Storfos must be
passed by means of a portage; but the other rapids are dangerous only
when the river is low. At the church of Polmak both banks of the river
are Norwegian. At Suoppanjarga, 8 Kil. above Seida (p. 265), we quit the
boat, and have 20 Kil. of road to traverse to Nyborg (p. 265).
to the North Cape. UAMMERFEST. Map, p.i>4». — 33. K. 259
From 01isfjor(I the mail-boat steers to the N., towards the moun-
tainous Sere, on wliicli arc the stations o( Hasvik and Gaashopcn.
This island, as well as the Stjcrne and Seiland, which conceal the
mouth of the Altcnfjord (p. '258), to the right, have the tableland
character common in Finmarken. In Seiland rises the Jadki
(3527 ft.), with its unexplored glaciers. Numerous hays cut deep
into the island. Between Seiland and the curiously shaped island
of ILiajcn, which rises abruptly on the W, side and gradually on
the ¥j. side , we steer towards the harbour of Uammerfest. Before
entering it, we look to the right into the strait of Stremmen^ sep-
arating Seiland from the Kvale , on which Uammerfest lies. A
promontory of the Kvale narrows the strait to 1 Kil, at one point,
across which the reindeer herds are made to swim to their summer
pastures in Seiland.
30 S.M. (from Tromse) Hammerfest (Jensens Hotel , fair ; Brit,
vice-consul and Lloyd's agent, Mr. Robertson), founded in 1787, and
now a town of 2200 iiihab., is the northernmost town in the world
(TO" 40' 11" N. lat., 23" 45' 25" E. long.). The town is wholly
timber -built. Grennevold- Gaden skirts the harbour, with the
Ilom. Cath. church and the telegraph-office. To the S.W. is the
better quarter of the town, with Stor-Gaden as the principal
street, and the Protestant church, the town-hall, and the schools,
all rebuilt since the great fire of 1890. Hammerfest is a very lively
place in summer, when the sun does not set from 13th May to 29th
July. (Conversely, the sun never rises from 18th Nov. to 23rd Jan.;
but the electric light introduced in 1891 affords some compensation.)
It carries on a busy trade with Russia, and tishing-fleets are also
dispatched hence to Spitzhergen and the Kara Sea. Cod-liver oil,
prepared in numerous boileries, is the most valuable commodity
of the place. Hence tin; all-pervading 'ancient and fish-like smcU'.
The prolongation of (irBnnevold-Gaden leads to the N. round
the harbour, then to the W. to (20 min.) the promontory of Fugl-
nivs, to which we may also row direct from the steamer. At the end
is a lighthouse (disused, of course, in summer), with the dwell-
ing of the keeper. A conspicuous little column of granite, called
the Meridianstettc, crowned with a globe in bronze, has also been
erected here to commemorate the measurement of degrees in 1816-52,
undertaken, as the Latin and Norwegian inscriptions record, 'by
the geometers of three nations, by order of King Oscar I. and Em-
perors Alexander I. and Nicholas L' — On the Fughucs Sir Ed-
ward Sabine made some of his famous experiments with the pen-
dulum in 1823. Fine view of the town. A hill above the column,
to the E., commands a view of the N. horizon, and consequently
of the midnight sun.
A long hill above Hammerfest, on which, a.? we steam into the har-
bciur, we ob.scrve a .stone .signal with a wixiden tup, is called "Sadlen
('.gaildic'; pron. Salilen). An easy footpalh, beginning beside the square
band-stand at the W. end of Stor-Gadcn, ascends the slopes in windings lo
17*
260 R. 33. — Map, p. '24f^. HAVjQ'SUNI). Frvm Troima
(he ('/4 hr.) top (small inn), whence there is a fine view of the town and
harbour. We may descend hy the valley nn the E. side, wlicre we rcacli
the carriage-road at the little )<ake Slorvand. On the other side of the
lake we observe the remains of a birch-grove and several small country-
houses. — The signal-station at the top of the Sadlen, 3/4 M. to the W.
of the inn, overlooks the glaciers and snow-mountains of Seiland and the
S0T0. This point is not, however, high enough for an unimpeded view
of the midnight sun.
Time permitting, the traveller should not omit to ascend the 'Tyven
(1230 ft.; tu/va, 'hill"), which rises to the S. of the town (l'/2-2 hrs.). Our
directions will enable him to dispense with a guide. We follow the road
to the B. of the Sadlen, above the Storvand, and then turn to the
right, following the telegraph-wires, but keeping well to the right to
avoid the swamps. The Tyven is the high hill at the foot of which
the wires run. A little farther on we pass under the wires and ascend
to the left to a height covered with loose stones, pass a small pond,
and reach (1 hr.) the foot of the abrupt Tyven. Here we turn to the
left and skirt the ba'^e of a huge precipice, ascending the somewhat
sleep course of a small brook, fringed with willows (Salix arctica) and
dwarf birches (Betula nana). At the top of the gully we obtain a view
of the sea towards the W. and the villas on the lake to the W., above
which lies another small lake. Large herds of fame reindeer, whose pe-
culiar grunting ('Grynte'') is heard a long way ofT, always graze here in
summer. We now ascend steeply to the right, passing an expanse of snow,
which lies on the right, and then, keeping still more to the right, reach
{^j\ hr.) the summit, which is marked liy a pyramid of stones. The Tyven
descends very abruptly on the W. side, with the sea washing its base,
near which lies a bay with meadows, a birch-wood, and several houses.
Towards the E. wo survey the barren and desolate Kvale, with its nu-
merous ponds, and to the S. and W. long mountain-ranges, snow-lields,
and glaciers. The islands of Seiland and S0r0 are particularly conspicuous.
To the N. stretches the vast horizon of the .\rctic Ocean. Of Hammer-
fest itself the Fuglmcs only is visible. — The best way back is by the
summit of the Sadlen (p. 259), to the W., where the view is similar,
though less extensive. Returning by this route, we take 4 hrs. for the
whole excursion-, otherwise 3-3V2 hrs. suffice.
Beyond Hammerfest the land ceases to be of any account ex-
cept as subservient to the sea, and fish becomes the centre of all
interests. The landscape is thoroughly Arctic, and the vegetation
is so scanty, that a patch of grass 'which might be covered with a
copy of the Times' is hailed as a meadow. — On the right the coast
is deeply indented with fjords. On the left there are but few
islands, between which we pass long stretches of the open sea.
6 S.M. Rolfsehavn, on the Rolfse. To the N. of the Rolfs«,
and separated from it by the Troldfjordsund, is the Inge, beyond
which lies Fruholmen. with the northernmost lighthouse in Nor-
way (71° 4').
3 S.M. Havesund, in a bay on the Have, with a church, a pastor,
and a Landhandler. To the left rises a pointed hill called the
Sukkertop ['sugar-loaf). The mail-steamers here enter the Maa-f-
sund. on the E., and touch at the Mnase, with its church, par-
sonage, and Landhandler's house, before proceeding to the Mager*i-
sund (p. '262). The tourist-steamers, however, steer to the N.,
between the Hjelmse, on the left, and the Mnasef, on the right. At
the N. end of the Hjcliuse' is a 'bird-mountain', the haunt of count-
less sea-fowl, with the fantastically shaped Hjebnsetoren. — The
to the North Cape. NORTH CAPE. Mop,p.2dS. —33. R. 261
Ojesvcertop soon comes in sight to the E. In front of it is the next
mail-steamer station —
2 S.M. Gjesvar, on an island. To the N. rise the *Stappene
(stappi, old Norsk for 'column'), four pointed rocky islands covered
with dense flocks of gulls, auks, and other sea-fowl. When scared
by a cannon-shot a number of the birds rise in dense snow-like
clouds, uttering peculiar cries. Other birds take to the water, but
great numbers remain sitting on the ledges of the rock. To the
right opens the Tuefjord, cutting deep into the Magere. The steamer
then rounds the long and low Knivskjar- or Kniuskjal-Odde , on
which a steamer struck during a fog in 1881, projecting beyond the
Cape, and soon (17 S.M. from Uammerfest) sights the North Cape,
which presents a majestic appearance although of moderate height.
The **North Cape (_968ft.; 71" 10' 40" N. lat., 26° 39" p:.
long.), named Kneskunas by the early geographer Schoning, a
dark-grey slate-rock, furrowed with deep clefts, rising abruptly
from the sea, is regarded as the northernmost point of Europe,
though the Nordkyn (p. 263) is the most N. continental point.
Travellers land in the Hornvik, on the N.E. side of the Cape. Up
the green mossy slope, which is swampy, stony, and steep at places,
tlie Steamboat Co. has constructed a path, and provided it with a
rope fastened to iron stanchions. (Stout shoes for the ascent and
wraps for the summit are very advisable.) We take about i)0 min.
to reach the top of the plateau, where a wire, very acceptable in
foggy weather (but reported in bad condition), leads in 20 min.
more to the extreme point. A granite column here commemorates
the visit of King Oscar II. in 1873, and a beacon records that of
Emperor William II. in 1891. In a pavilion travellers await tlie
hour of midnight, usually quailing champagne (^-ii kr. per bottle)
purveyed by the watchman who lives in the IJornvik in summer.
The view embraces the open sea to the W., N., and E. ; to the S.W.
we see the Hjelma and the liolfse; to the E., in the distance, the
Nordkyn; to the S. the plateau of the Mager**, with its patches of
snow, ponds, and scanty vegetation.
'The iKirtliern sun creeyint; at midni^lit at the distance of five Jia-
nieters alimg the liuri/.un, aud the iinuieasurable ocean in apparent con-
tact with the skies, form the grand outlines in the sublime picture pre-
sented to the astonished spectator. The incessant cares and pursuits of
anxious mortals are recollected as a dream ; the various forms and ener-
gies of animated nature are forgotten; the earth is contemplated only
in its elements, and as C(iUStitutiny a part of the solar svsteui\ — AcerJii,
'Travels to the N.irlh Cape". London, 1802. ' ■
•And then uprose before me,
Upon the water's edge,
The huge and haggard shape
Of that unknown North Cape,
Whose form is like a wedi;e\ f.oiif/J'cllow.
To the E. of the North Cape is an excellent IJshing-grouud (oonip. p. 244),
where j.asaengera are usually indulged with an hour or two of hand line
fishing from the deck of the steanier, tlo^ siilora gladly assisting novices.
262
34. From the North Cape to Vads0.
The direct tUsfance from the North Cape to Vadsjzf is about 46 S.M ,
but the course of the steamer, dipping deeply into numerous fjords, is
at least 100 S.M. long. The mail-steamers take 62-70 hours. — A local
steamer plie.s up and down the Porsauger FJurd.
Beyond tlie Nortli Cape the sole attraction of the voyage con-
sists in the utter bleakness and solemnity of the scene. Both main-
land and islands now consist of vast and monotonous plateaux,
called Naringen, rising to 1000-2000 ft., and generally unrelieved
by valleys. The steamboat traverses long fjords without coming in
sight of a boat, a human habitation, or even a bush, for half-a-day
at a time. At the heads of these fjords, on the other hand, we fre-
quently find smiling little colonies, surrounded with a few bushes
and trees.
From the Maase (p. 260) the mail-steamers steer to the E.
through the narrow Mageresund, between the large Muyere, tlie N.
end of which is the North Cape, and the mainland. On the Magere
are the stations of Honningsvang and (6 S.M. from Maase) Kjelvik,
with a church and Landhandler's house.
Beyond Kjelvik the steamer passes the Porsangernas, glitter-
ing with white quartz, and enters the Porsanger Fjord, about
120 Kil. long and QOKil. broad, into wliich numerous streams fall
at its S. end. From April to July the 'Sei' (saithe, Gadus virens),
a fish of the cod species, is largely caught here in nets, each of
which requires 30-40 men and 6-8 boats to manage it. The proxim-
ity of a shoal is indicated by the black and ruffled look of the water
and the attendant flock of thousands of sea-gulls. The Sei enters the
fjord in pursuit of the 'Lodde' (^Osmerus arcticus, a kind of smelt),
which resorts to the shore to spawn. The fishermen from the Lo-
foten Islands (p. 244) bring their boats and tackle here, for the
'Lodde' fishery.
5 S.M. (from Kjelvik) Eepvaag, near the Tamse, a flat island
with extensive moors , where the 'Multebaer' (cloud-berry , liuhus
chamamorus) grows in abundance.
5 S.M. Kistrand, with church, pastor, doctor, and telegraph
station.
On the E. side of the Porsanger Fjord is the peninsula oiSpirle-
Njarga, at the N. end of which is the headland of ='-Svaerholtklubben,
an almost sheer rock of clay-slate, about 1000 ft. in height, a re-
sort of millions of sea-fowl. The owner of the headland is the Land-
handler of Su'cfrltolt, which lies in a small bay to the E., of which
he and his family are the sole inhabitants. He deri-ves a good in-
come from the sale of the sea-fowls' eggs.
The mail-steamers now steer S. into the Laxefjord, and call at —
6 S.M. Lebeshy, on the E. bank, a prettily situated place, with
church, sliop, etc. Numerous coast-lines are observed (p.xxxiv),
up to 200 ft. high, and generally in pairs, one above the other.
NORDKYN. Map, p. 348. — 34. R. 263
Returning from I,el)esby, the steamer passes the mouth of the
Eidsfjord, at the head of which lies the narrow Hopseid, separating
it from the Hopsfjord. We next round the Drottviknaring, a pro-
montory hetween the Lasefjord and the small Kjellefjord. At the
end of the promontory rises the Store Finkirke, a huge rock, formerly
revered by the Lapps ; and in the Kjellefjord, a little beyond it, is
the Lille Finkirke. The vertical strata of sandstone here are like
basalt. At the head of the fjord we reach —
7 S.M. Kjellefjord, an 'Annexkirke' of Lebesby, with several
houses and 'Gammer' (see p. 254). The shore and the bottom of the
fjord are covered with boulders. An old coast-level is distinctly
traceable on the right. Leaving the Kjellefjord, the vessel steers
round the Eedevcrg ('red wall') to the station of — ^
2 S.M. Skjeliiingbery, and along the bold cliffs of the Coryas-
Njargai'pTon. Tshorgash). a large peninsula connected with the main-
land by the narrow isthmus of Hopseid. The N. end of the peninsula
is the Nordkyn (or Kinnerodderi). in 71° 6' 45" N. lat., the northern-
most point of the mainland of Europe. Two bold mountains on
the W. side guard the entrance to a basin, in w^hich lies Sandvar,
a solitary fisherman's hut. The masses of quartzose rock, broken
into enormous slabs, have a very imposing effect. Next, on the
right, are the headland of Smerbringa and the flat Sletnas, with a
curious rock-formation called ^Biskopen (the bishop).
The next station is (6 S.M.) Mehavn, with the whaling-station
and train-oil manufactory of Svend Foyn. Then (3 S.M.) Gamvik.
Heyond Omgang the steamer enters the large Tanafjord, about 70 Kil.
long, and skirts the E. bank, with its variegated quartzose rocks.
To the W. at one point we see across the narrow Hopseid into the
Laxefjord. The hills on the E. side of the tjord increase in height,
culminating in the Slangemfsfjeld (2315 ft.). To the W., farther
on, is Digermulen, a peninsula separating the Tanafjord from the
Langfjord, and to the S. rises the Algas-Varre ('holy mountain),
above Guldholmen. AVe call at (2 S.M.) Finkonykjeilen and at —
G S.M. Stangences (Lapp Vayge, 'valley'), where there is a guano
factory. Bushes, trees, and even potatoes are seen here. From
this point we look up the Vesire and 0dre Tanafjord, and the Lee-
botten, a bay to the S.E. — The water is too shallow to admit of
the steamer going on to Guldholmen (p, 265).
The steamer turns and steers down the Tanafjord, skirts the
Tanahom (805 ft.), at the N. end of the peninsula oiKago-Njarga,
and steers to the E. to (7 S.M.) Berlevaag, (5 S.M.) Makur, and
(4 S.M.) Sylte fjord (Lapp Orddo-Vuodna), with a 'Fugleberg' ('bird
hill') of sea-gulls and auks. — The scenery becomes more and more
dreary, and the shore lower (400-500 ft.), while fog and many
stretches of snow intensify the gloom. This whole peninsula is
named the Varjag-Njarga. and is separated from the Kago-Njarga
by the Kongsfjord.
264 R. 3J. — Map p.248. VADS0. From the North Cape
1 S.M. Havningberg^ with neat houses. To the left, at a height of
20-40 ft., lies the former coast-liue, above which run the telegraph
wires. To the \V. is the projecting headland of Harbaken. Near
Havningherg is the cavern of Oynen ('oven'), nearly 100 ft. in depth.
3 S.M. Vard«f (Cornelius Lund's Hotel; British vice-consul and
Lloyd's agent, Mr. Holmboe), a town of 2500 inhab., the chief
fishing-station in Finmarkeu, lies in N. lat. 70" 22' 35" and E. long.
30° 7' 24", on an island which is separated from the mainland by
the Bussesund. The town has two harbours, the larger and deeper
being on the N. side, protected by a large breakwater, and the
other on the S. side. The neat houses are roofed with turf, and
their little gardens grow a few vegetables. On July 21st, 1893,
Dr. Frithjof Nansen set sail from Varde in the polar-steamer 'Fram',
and here, on Aug. 13th, 1896, he and his companion, I'red. Hjalmar
Johansen , first set foot on Norwegian soil on their return, landing
from the British yacht 'Windward', which had brought them from
Franz-Joseph Land.
To the W. of the town is the fortress of Vardehus, founded about
1310, and now of no importance (garrison of 16 men only). To this
fortress, however, Norway was indebted for her acquisition of Fin-
marken. Inscriptions here commemorate the visits of Christian IV.,
King of Denmark and Norway , in 1599, and Oscar II., King of
Sweden and Norway, in 1873. To the E. of the fortress is a large
Train Oil Boilery. — To the E. of the town is a timber -built
cliurch. In the vicinity are numerous 'Hjelder' for drying fish.
If time permit, we ascend the (20 min.) Vardefjeld (102 ft.), a
rocky hill behind the church, overlooking the town and island, the
Domen (535 ft.) to the S. E., the open sea to theE., and the district
. of Syd-Varanger to the S., with the adjoining Russian territory.
The astronomer Fater Max Hell of Selmecz in Hungary observed the
transit of Venus across the sun from the isthmus between the two har-
liours in 17G8-69. The church-register still contains a note written by him
on 22nd .Tune, 1769. — The climate here is mild, so that sheep spend the
winter in the open air; but violent storms are frequent in winter (max-
imum cold 5° Fahr.). Comp. p. xxxix.
The voyage from Varde to Vadse takes 31/2-^72 hours. We
steer to the N.E. past the islands of Retie and Home. On Rene is
the summer-residence of the commandant of Vardehus, consisting
of two turf-covered huts resembling 'Gammer' (p. 254). The down
and eggs of the sea-fowl on the island form part of his income.
The shore continues exceedingly barren. In the interior rise the
Ruyttotjock undBeljek. We pass the small trading-station oHKiberg
and skirt the S. side of the Vadse, on which the town of that name
formerly lay.
10 S.M. (55 from Hammerfest) Vads« (Hotel Krogh ; AnnslacVs
Hotel; British vice-consul and Lloyd's agent, Mr. B. M. Akerniand),
a town with 2200 inhab., lialf Finns ('Kv.-ener'), lies in 70" 4' N.
lat., at the S. end of the peninsula of Varjag-Njarga. Tlie Lapp
to Vadse. NTBORG. Map, p. 248. — 34. R. 265
name of the place is Cncce-Suollo (prou. cliahtze), the Finnish Vesi-
Siutri, both signifying 'water-island'. The Finns, chiefly iiiuni-
grauts from the Russian principality of Finland, who live at
ytre-Vads0, the E. suburb, have several peculiarities. At their
bath-room ('Sauna') a Russian vapour bath may be ordered by the
curious. On every side are odoriferous 'Hjelder' for drying lish.
Potatoes, a few stunted mouutain-ashes and plum-trees, and sev-
eral of our spring-flowers, such as forget-me-uot and campion,
brave the climate. The pretty Church stands on a hill to the N. of
the town. The sacristy contains a votive picture of 16(31. Under
the tower, which may be ascended, is a curious ofl'ertory-box. The
lic.'iidens of the Amtmand is attractive. The shops sell interesting
Russian articles ('Nffiverskrukker' or baskets made of birch-bark).
Fkom VABse TO Vagge on the Tanafjoed. — A Local Stkamkk
plie-i to Nybovg iu 3 hrs. (fare 3 kr. 55 0.)\ we drive thence to Siida in
~^l-i-'d hrs. (about 18 kr.); cross the river and drive to Tananas in about
2 hrs. ; ferry tlience to Guldholmtn; and row thence ioVagge in I'/i lir. (about
(1 kr.). Careful inquiry should be made of the captain of the iiiuil-sle;imer
as to Ihe day and hour of her arrival at Vagge. He may also be asked
til telegraph to Nyborg for a vehicle to await the traveller's arrival. The
Jourucy to Guldholmen may be made in a day, but as the mail-steamer does
nut reach Vagge until early on Frid. morning, it is advisable to spend
Wed. night at Nyborg.
The local steamer, to which we may row direct from the mail
.steamer, leaves Vadsa 1 hr. after the arrival of the steamer of
Line 111 (p. 2"29). It steers to the AV. up the Vnrangcr Fjord, past
several Lapp settlements, the chief of which is Morfcrisntr.*, and the
i-liurch oi' Nipsfebi/. The vegetation improves as we ascend the fjord.
Nyborg (quarters at the Landhandler's, where a vehicle is ordered
foi- the drive to Seida) lies 4a Kil. to the W. of Vads^, near the end
ol' the fjord. About 15 Kil. to the N. rises the Madevarre (1470 ft. ;
forest limit, 050 ft.).
Wc drive across the Seidafjeld (over which extends a 'Reii-
gjairdu', Lapp 'Aide', or fence to prevent the reindeer from stray-
ing) to Seida, a skyds-station on the E. bank of the Tana-Eiv, the
largest river but one in Norway, noted for its salmon and the
particles of gold it contains. We ferry across to the "\V. bank, on
wliich a carriage-road descends via Maskjock, where a tributary
stream is crossed, Bonakas, and the churdi of Tana, to 'J\in(tiuv!!.
Thence we take a rowing-boat to the island of —
(Juldholmen ('gold island'; good quarters). Thence we must
start not later than 4 a.m. on Frid. in order to catch the southward
b(^und steamer at \nj(ie, where there are no quarters.
266
35. Syd-Varanger.
Local Steamers ply fiom bntli Vard^ and Vads0 to Ihe Std-Varan-
GER, a district extolled by the Norwegians (see /'r«s'« Finmarken). where
we see the Lapps and the industrious Finns lo advantage. The explorer
should have a veil (Sl^r"), covering the whole head and fastened round the
nock, and if possible a mosquito-tent ('Raggas') also, as gnats (Culex pi-
jiiens) occur in such swarms as sometimes to darken the sun.
Syd-Varanger, the district to tbe S. of the Varanger FjortI, was
long a subject of dispute between Norway and Russia, until tbe
frontier was finally settled by the convention of 1834. This region
abounds in timber (whence it is known as 'Raftlandet', the land of
planks or rafters), in flsh, and in birds.
The local steamer conveys us across the Varanger Fjord to the
S. from Vads0 to Bugamses (good qtiarters at the Landhandler's), at
the month of tlie Bugefjord, which runs a long way inland. On
the W. side of the fjord rises the Bugenasfjeld (ISOf) ft.), and to
the E. the Brasfjeld (1335 ft.). On the right opens the Kjefjord,
the banks of which are almost uninhabited. We skirt the N. side
of the bare Skogere, touch at Hjelme, and steer to the S. Into the
Beg fjord, which farther on branches into the Kloster fjord and the
Langfjord.
At Kirkena-s, on the promontory between these fjords, are the
church and parsonage of Syd-Varanger (rooms at Landhandler
Figenschou's). Farther up the fjord ( 5 Kil.) lies the station Elvenaes
(rooms at the Lensmand's), at the mouth of the large Pasvik-ELv or
Klostcr-Elv, named after the monastery of Peisen once situated
here. The steamer goes on, weather permitting, to Hvalen, Jar-
fjordbunden, Pasvik (see below), Smaastrem, and the Russian fron-
tier on the Jacobs-Elv. Some 4-5 Kil. beyond Elvenss is the
chapel of Boris-Gleh, named after two Russian saints, situated on
the left bank of the Pasvik, in a Russian 'enclave' of '*/(j Engl,
sq. M. Here reside the SkoUe-Lapps ('scalp Lapps"), so named
from the fact tliat they were formerly bald from disease.
The Pasvik -Elv consists of a series of lakes, some of them
10-20 Kil. long, connected by about thirty waterfalls , and for a
distance of 100 Kil. forms the frontier between Norway and Russia.
Its source is the Enare-Trdsk (367 ft.), a lake nearly 550 Engl,
sq. M. in area. — A visit may be paid from Boris-Gleb to the Storfos
( GitddegcEvdnje) and to the (6-7 Kil. ) Harefos {Njoammel Guoika,
'hare-fall'), on the Valegas-Javrc, a lake full of trout; also to the
(40 Kil.) Mdnniko-Koski ('pine-waterfall'), through the fine forest
scenery of the Syd-Varanger.
A good road leads from Elvenaes to the (9 Kil.) head of the
Jarfjord, on which we may row to Pasvik (from the Lapp basse,
'sacred'), a fishing hamlet with a good harbour. A little farther to
the E. is Jacobselvs-Kapel, the last steamboat-station, and the last
place in Norway. Since the visit of Oscar II. in 1873, recalled by
KADTOKEINO. 30. Route. 267
a marl)le slab, the plare has been named ^ Oscar den Amiens KapeV.
Itlies on the Jacnbs-Elr {^l.a-p-pVuorjeni], here the boundary between
Norway and Russia.
The i'ullowing Lapp Wdrds (in which c = ch, c = ts, and s = sh) oc-
cur frequently : duoddar, mountain; farce, hill: varre-oaaive, hill-tnp ;
tjolk, point; njarg., promontory, peninsula; siwlo, island; gedge, stone;
cacce., water; vuodnii, fjord: Javve. lake; gaiva, spring ;^'oMi, river; guoika,
waterfall; njalmi. estuary ; ^'aijin, glacier; vliniit, person, human being;
</oa/<e, house ; m«n , land; iuocco (pronunced 'buozzo'), reindeer; suoppan,
lasso; gudsse, cow; guOise-voJa, cow's-fat, butter: guolle, fish; guvijin,
trout; muorra, tree; dadno, lir, pine ; iuHise, cradle; j)mU', i/ir )•)■«, sledge;
heska, fur-coat; gabmagak, shoes; skalkomager, fur-boots; bellinger, lea-
thern gaiters; nibe, knife; doppa, edge; bcenagulam, a mile (literally 'as
far as a dog's bark is heard"). — The Lapp greeting on entering a house
is ^ra/lhe vissuV (peace to your house)! The answer, '■ibinel addf (God
grant it) ! '■JiurisC or '■buorre baive" (good day) ! Answer, Hbmel addi V
36. From the Altenfjord to Haparanda in Sweden.
About 7(X) Kil. (435 Engl. 31.), a fatiguing journey of 11-13 day.<!. From
Alien to Kaulokeinv 4 days , thence to Muoniovava 3-4 days, and from
Muoniovara to Haparanda 4-5 days. This route has been trodden by L.ron
liuch, Accrbi. C/iarlts Martins, Bravais, Oscar Sckniidl, and other scholars
and naturalists, but has no attraction except for purposes of science or of
sport. The best time is between the middle of August and the middle
of September. Earlier the mosquitoes are insufl'erable ; later the days
draw in and snow begins to fall. The traveller's passport must be visi by
a Russian ambassador or consul (a consul at Hammerfest).
From Alten to Kadtokkino, about 140 Kil. by the route across
the mountains to the W. of the Alten-Elv, or loo Kil. if we follow
that river. We prefer the first of these routes , and engage guide
and horses for the whole journey to Karesuando. Four 'Fjeldstuer'
afford shelter, but provisions must bo taken. The highest part of
the vast fjeld which the route traverses is the JYuypiuarre (2730 it. ;
'varre' the Lapp, 'vara' the Finnish for mountain"), rising far to
the W. The stations are: 30 Kil. Uaryiastue (360 ft.); 20 Kil.
Suolovunhme or Solovom (1300 ft.) ; 26 Kil. Pigyejavre (1110 ft.);
52 Kil. Kautokeino.
The longer route, following the Alten-Elv (Alntajokki), crosses
t\\c lieskadosfjeld to the Lcuhiijiture and jl/ns/ (810 ft.), in order
to avoid the Sautzofosse, the rapids in the lower part of the river.
On the upper part, where there is little stream, we row up to —
Kautokeino (865 ft. ; good quarters at the Landhandler's, or at
the Lensmand's, who is obliging and well informed), a settlement
of Lapps and a few Fittns, most of whom are absent in summer,
with a church and parsonage. The sides of the village-well are
coated with ice below. A few birches, but no pines. The name
Kautokeino ('highest of the way') has been explained as marking
the liighest point on the way from the Arctic Ocean to the Baltic Sea.
FiioM Kautokeino to Karesuando (i-a. 100 Kil. or 62 Engl. M.),
two days. We either ride or row up the Alten-Elv to (14 Kil.)
Mortas. Thence to Sijv,ij('irri in Finland (lUissia), 5J Kil. more.
268 Route 36. KARESUANDO.
The frontier, which we cross 11 Kil. before reaching this place,
is formed by the watershed (about 18o0 ft.) between the Arctic
Ocean and the Gulf of Bothnia. A ride of 28 Kll. more, present-
ing little interest, brings us to —
Karesuando (1060 ft.; Inn), the tirst village in Sweden, with a
church. The Muonio-Elf is here 400 ft. wide. BarleV is cultivated.
From Karesuanuo to Muoniovaka (ca. 100 Kil. or 62 Engl. M.),
in one day by boat down the Muonio-Elf , the boundary be-
tween Sweden and Finland. The trip is very interesting, and the
passage of the rapids is free from danger. It is usual to hire a boat
and rowers as far as Muonioniska ('beginning of the Muonio') on
the Finland side, or to Muoniovara (good quarters) on the Swedish
side; but a fresh boat may be engaged at each station: 20 Kil.
Kuttaintn; 20 Kil. Palojuensun; 30 Ki\. Ketkisuundo (12 Kil. be-
low which are seen the tirst pines); 20 Kil. Rosleranta ; 10 Kil.
ilfuoniovam (760 ft.), prettily situated, with corn-fields. An inter-
esting description of the salmon-spearing in the Muonio by torch-
liglit is given by L. von Buck.
FiiOM MuoNiovAUA TO Hapakanda (365 Kil. or 220 Engl. M.),
also by boat, first on the Muonio, and then on the Tornea-Elf. Tlie
rushing of the Muoniokoskl, a cataract upwards of 2 Kil. long, is
auiUble at Muoniovara, */4hr. distant. The descent is very exciting
( 2 kT. to the 'fors-styrman'). The foaming river careers wildly
tlirough a narrow gully and over sunken rocks.
The boat from Muoniovara to Ruskola (see p. 404) is manned by
three boatmen, holds two passengers only, and costs about 80 kr.
Besides the cataracts just mentioned we descend a series of otlier
rapids. The whole voyage (about 280 Kil.) takes 21/2-3 days. Good
quarters at Kihlanui, Kengis Bruk (iron -works), Velio, and
Miitarengi, with Ofver Tonua and the mountain of Avasaxa.
(p. 404), on the Finnish side.
Between the Lap-pea station and that of Kengis Bruk , 1 hr.
below it, the large Muonio-Elf falls into the Tornea-Elf, which de-
scends from the T6rnea-Trask (65 Kil. long; 1130 ft. above the
sea), to the E. of the Ofotenfjord. At Pello (265 ft.) the costumes
of the natives are interesting. At the Kitlis, a hill here, ends a
degree of longitude measured by Maupertuis in 1736.
From Malareinji, where it is usual to land, to Ilaparandn. see
p. 404.
From Lappea (see above) onwards there is also a land-route,
which may be chosen as an alternative to the boat-voyage.
37. From Hammerfest to Spitzbergen.
About 750 Kil. (465 Engl. M.). Tlie steamer takes about 2V'.' days, Init
there is now no regular boat since the Vesleraalciis Dampskibs-iSelsktih dis-
fontiuiied its service. The best way to get a glimpse ot the pol.ar resiious
is to join one of the pleasure -erulsea arranged liy Capi. Bttde (Wismar,
SPITZBERCEN. SI. Route. 269
Jlni'kleiiburf.', Germany), who makes two voyages (in July ami Aiigust) of
four weeks duration, skirtinp the Norwegian coast and going on to Spitz-
hrr;;en (where a stay of 4-5 days is made). Tlie focid and appninlmcnts
(Ml lioard his vessel arc well spoken of; inclusive fares, berth 40-75^.,
stateroom for 1 pers. 90/. (prospectus on apiilication). The steamer 'Augusta
Victoria' of the Hamburg -American Sleamshiji Co. also plies once in the
season to Spitsbergen, remaining there one day.
Warm clothing should be taken for the voyage, although in Spil/,-
bcrgen the thermometer never sinks below freezing-point in July and sel-
dom in August. Stout boots are of course necessary for excursions on
land. Sportsmen should provide themselves with a tent and waterproof
ground-sheets or sleeping-sacks.
Spitzhergen , a group of Arctic islands, was discovered in 1596
by tlie ]>nti-.h navigator Willem Barents. .\l)Oiit halfway between
the .Scandinavian mainland and Spitzbergcn, in 74° N. lat., lie tlie
niiinhabitcd Be<ir Islands, a precipitous group of islets culminating
in Mount Misery (1760 ft.), also discovered by Barents. The sca-
I'owl rock to the S. of these islands is perhaps the largest colony
of its kind in the Arctic regions, while the adjoining sea is a great
re.-^ort of whales.
About midday on the second day after leaving Hammcrfest the
steamer is off the v*^. cape (76° 26' N. lat. 1 of the W. or main island
of Spitzbergen. It skirts the W. coast, where the Hor7isu7idstind
(4690 ft.) rises picturesquely, passes the mouth of Bell Sound, and
enters the Isfjord or Ice Fjord, the largest inlet on this coast, running
deep into the land. To the N. of the entrance rises the Dedmand
('Dead Man'; '2500 ft.), to the E. of which opens Safe Haven, with
its magnificent glaciers. Numerous other sharp peaks and glaciers,
all terminating in precipitous cliffs towards the sea, are seen as we
proceed. The N. shore of the fjord, like the greater part of the
whole W. coast , consists of primitive granite and gneiss, and its
.\lpinc formations present a striking contrast to the gently sloping
S. shore, whif-h belongs to a later (miocenc) period and whore the
mountains are at some distance from the sea.
The steamer passes (rreenlJarbovr and CoiilBay (so called from
its seams of coal), and drops anchor in Advent Bay (78" if)' N. lat.).
The Tourist Hotel, built by tiic Vesteraalens Dampskibs-Helskab
in 1896, is closed at present. On a neighbouring height are the
remains of a clay-hut erected in Oct., 1895, by four Norwegian
reindeer-hunters, who were prevented from leaving the island by
the unusually early freezing of the sea; while two graves testify to
the hardships of the Arctic winter. The sun shines here for four
months uninterruptedly during summer, and the Gulf Stream,
which washes the entire W. coast and part of the N.W. coast of
West Spitzbergen, modifies tlic climate very considerably. The
snow melts to the height of 1300-1600 ft. above the sea -level,
and the ground is covered with a rich flora of flowers, ferns, moss,
and lichen.
Excursions. To Mt. Aui/usta Victoria, the broad glaciers of
which arc well seen from the hotel; there and back, 3-4 hrs. — To
270 Route 37. SPITZBERGEN.
the Vogelbery, to tliu N.W., 5-G lirs. there and back. — To the
plateau on the Nordenskjoldsbcry, wlierc fossils of plants may bo
found, «-10 hrs. there and back; to the summit (2300-2000 ft.), a
few hours more. The wide view from the top ranges over the ice
and snow clad interior of West Spitzhergen. — By rowing-boat to
Advent Bay Valley (20-24 hrs. J, where the sportsman will lind
numerous reindeer and Arctic foxes. — By rowing-boat to Sassen
Buy, the easternmost bay of the Ice Fjord, another region affording
good sport (3 days; more when tlie wind is unfavourable). — Rovmd
the Ice Fjord, passing Sassen Bay, on the N. shore of which rises
the White Peak (2600 ft.), and <.'ape Thordsen, and returning by the
W. shores of the fjord (^1 day). On Cape Thordsen is the so-called
Nordcnskjold House, where a number of Norwegians perished in the
winter of 1872-73. The Swedish polar expedition under Nordcn-
skjold spent that winter at Mussel Bay, on the N. coast.
A very attractive excursion , occupying about 3 days, may be
made to the N. along the W. coast of West Spitzbergen. We steer
through the shallow sound separating tlie island of Prince Charles
Foreland from the main island (larger steamers keep outside), pass
Kbvfs Bay, with the mountain -peaks known as the Trc Kroner
(4018 ft.) projecting from the ice-clad background, then Cross Bay,
also with huge glaciers, and then the Seven Ice Mountains, to May-
dalen Bay, perhaps the finest of the smaller fjords in Spitzbergen.
Thence we traverse the Ddnen-Gat, between Danes Island and
Amsterdam Island, to Virgo Harbour, on Smeerenbury Sound. On
Danes Island is the house of Mr. Pike, from beside which the Swe-
dish explorer S. A. Andre'e ascended in his balloon on July 11th,
1897. On the E. Smeercnburg Sound is bounded by jagged moun-
tains and huge glaciers. On the W. side are the flat shores of
Amsterdam Island, the site in the 17th cent, of the Dutch summer-
settlement of Smeerenbury. This station carried on so productive
a whaling industry that, until the 'right' whale was finally ex-
terminated in this region, Smecrenburg was regarded as of equal
importance with Batavia in Java. No traces of the settlement where
thousands of human beings used to spend the summer are now to
be seen, except scattered bones and the well preserved remains of
coffins projecting from the shallow graves.
Capt. Bade (p. 268) sometimes continues his voyage to the N. as far as
the SOth parallel, affording a view of the eternal polar ice. Sumotimes
walruses are seen on this voyage, and occasionally polar bears, which de-
sert West Spitzbergen in summer. Bears are most numerous in the bays
oft' the Uindilopen or Ilinlopen Strait, which separates West Spitzbergen
from JVoiih East Land. When the weather is favourable, the siuhH steamer
can accomplish the excursinn from Advent Bay to these straits and back
in 5-6 days.
SWEDEN.
Route Page
38. Malmo and Southern Skanc 27'2
From Malmi) to Trclleborg ; to Ystad; to Cimbrishamn ;
to Genarp; to Engclholm 274-275. — Landskrona 275.
30. From Malmo to Nassjo (and Stockholm) via Lund . 276
From Esltif to Christianstad 278. — From Vislaada to
Halmstad; to Karlshamn and Karlskiona 279.
40. From Alfvesta to Karlskrona and Kalmar via Vexiii.
Gland 279
From Kalmar to Nassjo via Oskarshaum 282
-il. From (Copenhagen) Helsingborg to Gotenburg . . . 2S3
From Helsingborg to Hessleholm and to Jonkoping via
Vernamo 284. — From Kattarp to Hiigenas. Kullen 285. —
From Halmstad to Nassjo 236. — From Varberg to BorS.s
and Herrljunga 286.
42. Gotenburg 287
From Gotenburg to Sarii, to Bonis, and to Skara 2&2.
43. From Gotenburg to Venersborg. Lake Venern.
"Western Gota Canal 292
From Oxncred to Uddevalla. From Venersborg to Herrl-
junga 293. — The Dalsland Canal 299.
44. From Gotenburg to Katrineholm (and Stockholm) . 299
From .Stenstorp to Hjo and to Lidkopinj: 300.
45. From Nassjo to Jonkoping and Fallicipiug 301
From Jonkoping to Viroda 303.
46. From Jonkoping to Stockholm by Lake Vettcru and
the Eastern Gota Canal 303
From Odeshog to Linkop'ing 305.
47. From Nassjo to Stockholm 307
From Mjolby to Hall.sberg and ()reliro 308. — The Kinda
Canal. From Norsholm to Ve.stervik and to PSlaboda 309,
310. — From Saltskog to Eskil.stuna, 311.
48. From (Christiania)Charlottonberg to Laxa(Stockholiu) 312
The Fryken Lake.-s 313.
49. Stockholm 314
I. Sladen and lliddarholmen 320. — H. The Northern f^luar-
ter.x 327. — HI. The National Museum 331. — IV. Soder-
malm 343. — V. Kung.'^holmen 344. — VI. DJurgarden 344.
50. Environs of Stockholm 347
51. From Stockholm to Upsala 354
52. The Island of Gotland 361
53. From Stockholm to Vesteras and ()rebro 367
Fiom Tillbor-a to Ludvika and to Sala 367. — The
Slromshohii Canal 3(i8. — From Frovi to Ludvika and to
Krylb.p 369. — From <')rcbro to SvartS. Lake Hjelmare 370.
54. From Kolbiick and Valskog to Flcn, Nyki3ping, and
Oxclosund 370
55. From Gotenburg to Falun 371
From Pagliison to Filip.stad and Uddeholin 372.
272 R'jule 36'. iMALMO.
rioiitc Pa^r
56. From Stockholm to Lake Siljaii via Borliingc (Falun) 374
Lake Siljan 375
From Mora to Christinehamn 376.
From Orsa to Gefle via Falun 377
57. From Upsala via Gefle to Ockelbo (Bracke. dstermmd) 378
From Orbyhus to Dannemora and Hargshamn 378.
58. From Stockholm via Upsala, Ockelbo, and Bracke to
Ostersund, Storlien, and Trondhjem 379
From Kilafors to Suderhainn 380. — From Ljusdal to
Hudiksvall 381. — From Hjerpen to Koliisen and to Lev-
anger 383, 384. — The Areskulan 38i. — From Dufed to
the Tiinnfors and to Levanger 3?5.
59. From Ange to Sundsvall 386
60. F'rom Bispgarden to Sundsvall by the Indals-Elf . . 387
61. From Bracke to L\ilea 388
From Helgum to Ramsele and via Strom to Norway. From
Langselc to Solleftea. From Selsjo to Adals Liden and
the Kilfors 389. — From Vannas to the Fja.IIfor.s 390.
62. From Stockholm to Sundsvall and Hcmosand by Sea 391
63. From Hernbsand to Solleftea via the Angerman-Elf . 393
64. From Sundsvall and Hernosand to Lulea by Sea . . 395
65. From Lulea to Kvickjook 397
From .Tockmock to the Harsprang 399. — From Kvickjuck
to Bod0 400.
'o^. From Lulea to Gellivara (Narvik) 400
From Gellivara to Kvickjook 403.
67. From Lulea to Haparanda by Sea 403
Friim Haparanda to Pajala and Vittangi. The Avasaxa 404.
38. Malmo and Southern Skane.
Arrival. The Steamboats from Copenhagen and Lubcck land at the
E. ipiay in the main harbour, at the S. end of which is the Tullhtts (PI. 7;
B, 2), or ouatom-house, where luggage is examined. The Steam Fekky
from Copenhagen (Angfiirje; PI. B, 1) lands in the E. side-harbour, where
there is a special custom-house. A few paces from the S. end of the main
harbour, to the left, i,s the Main Railway Station (PI. B, 2) of the Sodra
Stamhana for the trains to Trelleborg, Stockholm, Gotenburg, etc. To
the W. of the harbour is the station for trains to Ystad, Ilvellingc, Trelle-
borg, and Limhamn (p. 273). Porter ('barare') 25-35 6. each package. —
The traveller shovild leave his luggage at the station (20 6.) and at once
buy the latest number of 'Sveriges Kommunikationer' (10 6.). — Steam-
boats also ply to Stockholm, Gotenburg, etc. ; others touch here on their
way to London, Amsterdam, Bordeaux, etc.
Hotels (often crowded in summer). ■ Kkamer^s Hotel, Stor-Torg
(PI. B, 2), an old-established house, R. from IV2, B. 3/4, D. (1-5 p.m.)
from 2, 'Sexor' (p. xxvi) I1/2 kr. ; Hotel Horn, opposite the railway-station,
R. 2i/2-5V'.> kr., B. SO0., V>. (1-5.30 p.m.) 2-21/2 kr., well spoken of.
Cafes-Restaurants in the Kunfj Oskars Park (p. 273) and at the Ulrmul-
raiiljomj (PI. B, I), on the E. mole at the harbour, near the bathing
establishment (tramway, see p. 273).
MAI-MO. .•i'S\ Route. 273
Post Office (PI. 11; n, 2), Oster-Gatan 45. — Telegraph Office, Norra
ValKJatan 54 (PI. B, C, 2). — Tramways from the Strand-Paviljong at
the harbour to the Stor-Torg, and thence to the S. to Sodervarn and to
the E. to Ostra Tulln. — Bankers. Riksbank, Oster-Gatan 34; Skanes Ens-
kilcla Bank^ Bruks-Galan 2, next the post-office; Hnndehhrink, Scider-Oatan 14,
Money may be changed at these; also at C. M. IJaUhack <k Honer , Adel-
Gatan 51. — British Vice- Consul and U.S. Consular Agent, Mr. Peter
M. Flensburg. — Lloyds Agents, E.'sscn <£• Frick.
Malino, a thriving seaport, the capital of the fertile province
of Skane, with 63,000 inhab., lies on the Sound, opposite Copen-
hagen (16 Engl. M. distant), in a flat and uninteresting district.
Besides its brisk trade, it possesses a number of manufactories (of
gloves, cotton, tobacco, machinery, etc.).
In the middle ages Malmo was the chief trading town on the Sound,
owing its prosperity mainly to the herring-lishery, which attracted mer-
chants from all parts of the Baltic. During the chequered reiiiu of Christian II.
of Denmark (1513-23) Malmij played a prominent part, headed by the burgo-
master Jli7-gen Kock., who introduced the Keformation. The modern pro-
sperity of the town, inaugurated at the end of the 18th cent, by the
merchant, Frans Suell, was increased by the opening of the railway to
.Stockholm in 1856.
The Harbour, on the N. side of the town, has recently been
considerably enlarged. — Crossing the bridge beside the Cusloni
House (Pi. 7 ; B, 2), we follow the street straight on to the S. to the
Stou-Torg ('great market'), with a fine bronze equestrian statue, by
J. Bcirjeson (1896), of Charles X. Gustavus, who united Skane with
Sweden in 1648. At the N.E. angle of the square are the Kadhu8(r.)
a.n([ the Landshofdinge-Besidens (V\.Q), or governor's residence (1.)
The Rauhus (PI. 8; B, 2), or town-hall, a handsome edifice in
the Netherlandish Renaissance style, was built in 1546 and restored
in 1864-69. The groundfloor is of granite, the upper story, decorated
with allegorical statues and medallions, is of brick.
The handsome Knutssal (adm. 30 6.) was the council-chamber of the
once powerful Knutsgille or 'Guild of Canute". The Landstingssal contains
a collection of portraits of Danish and Swedish king.s and a painting by
Cederstrom : Magnus Stenbock at Malmo in 1709.
Passing between these buildings, we reach the Petri Kyeka
(PI. 5 ; B, 2), a fine Gothic brick church, founded in 1319 and restored
in 1890, when the tower was completed. — In the S.E. part of the
town arc the St. Pauli Kyrkn{V\. 10 ; C, 3) and the Hogre Elementar-
Larorerk (PLC, 3), or high school, with a small museum.
At the W. end of the town are the pleasant promenades of the
Kumj Oskars Park (restaurant), where a band plays twice daily in
snminor. — Behind is the Malm5hus (PI. A, 2, 3), a fortress dating
in its present form from 1537. Bothwell, Queen Mary Stuart's
third husband, was imprisoned here in 1573-78, but his dungeon
is now walled up. He died on 14th April, 1578, in the chateau of
Dragsholm in Zealand.
From JIalmo (station, see p. 272) trains run hourly in 10 min. to the
village of Limhamn, with large cement-works and other factories, the tall
chimneys of which are conspicuous from the sea.
BAEDiiKER's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. jy
274 Eoule 38. YSTAD. Southern
From Malmo to Trblleborg there are two lines of railway.
The express-trains on the through-route from Stockholm to Berlin
(see below) run via Arrie, Manstrop, Oslra Grefvie, Slagarp, and
other unimportant stations (32 Kil.). Local trains run via (19 Kil.)
HvelUnge (Gjastgifvaregard, very fair).
About 10 M. to the W. of Hvellinge, on a bleak sandy peninsula, lie
the small and ancient towns of Skanbr and Falsterbo, once famed for their
herrinsj-fishery and the 'Fair of .SkSne". A storm destroyed their harbours
in 1631, and their population is now about 1000 only. The old churches
are interesting'. To the S. of Falsterbo is the ruined fort of FaWerbohus.
33 Kil. Trelleborg (Stads- Hotel), the southernmost town in
Sweden, with 2500 inhab. and several factories, is of ancient origin,
but owes its modern Importance to its steamboat-connection with
(4 hrs.) Sassnitz, on the island of Kiigen, a link in the shortest
through-route between Stockholm and Berlin (26 hrs.). The main
station, Trelleborg Nedre, is at the pier. The private lines to Malmo
via Hvellinge, to Lund via Svedala (see below), Klagerup (p. 275),
and Staffanstorp (see below), and to Klagstorp (see below) and
Kydsgard (see below) have a second station at Trelleborg Ofre, to
the N. of the town.
Railway from Malmo to Ystad (63 Kil., in l^/i-S^/i hrs.). —
6 Kil. Hindby; 11 Kil. Oxie; 16 Kil. Skabersjo, 3 M. to the N.E.
of which is the handsome mansion of Torup; 21 Kil. Svedala (see
above); 29 Kil. Borrlnge, junction for Klagstorp (see above) and
Ostratorp, a flshing-village near the Smyge Huk, the S. extremity
of Sweden (55° 18' 20" N. lat.) ; 44 Kil. Rydsgard, the junction of a
line to Trelleborg via Klagstorp (see above) ; 55 Kil. Charlottenlund .
63 Kil. Ystad (Hot. du Sud; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. E. Borg), a
busy seaport and manufacturing town, with 8000 inhab., is the
focus of a network of small private railways. Steamers to Stock-
holm, Copenhagen, Gotenburg, the island of Bornholm, Stettin,
Liibeck, etc.
Railway from Malmo to Cimurishamn viaTomelilla (96 Kil.,
in 31/2 hrs.). 15 Kil. Staffanstorp, junction for Lund and Trelle-
borg (see above) ; 24 Kil. Dalby, with an old church ; 35 Kil.
Veberod, near which is the Romeleklint (573 ft.). At (42 Kil.)
Oveds Kloster is the chateau of the same name, on the Vombsjo,
one of the finest private seats in Sweden. 53 Kil. Sofdehorg, with
another line chateau ; 69 Kil. Tomelilla (Jernvags-Hotel), the junc-
tion for Ystad and Esluf.
96 Kil. Civahxii)xdi.rajvor Simrishamn(Uotel Svea), a small seaport
with 2000 inhabitants. In the neighbourhood is the Gllmmingehus,
a mediaBval fortified mansion; and 24 Kil. to the N. is the fishing-
village of Kivlk, with an interesting monument of the bronze age,
with sculptured stones at the sides.
SIcane. LANDSKRONA. 38. Route. 275
The Railway prom Malmo to Genarp(29 Kil., in I1/4 In.; tares
'3 kr., 1 kr.) stops, among other stations, at Bara, near the chateau
of Torup (p. 274), and at Klagerup, near the chateau of Hyhy. —
Near Genarp is the handsome modern chateau of Hnckeberga.
From Malmo to Hklsingborg and Engelholm, 68 Kil., railway
in I'/o-Si/ohrs. (fares 3 kr. 60, 2 kr. 40 0.; express, 5 kr. 80,
4 kr. 10, 2kr. 55 0.); to Engelholm, 83 Kil., express in 2-23/4 hrs.
(7 kr. 10, 5 kr., 3 kr. 56 0.), ordinary trains in 6V2 hrs. (4 kr. 40,
2 kr. 96 0.). — From Malmo to Gotenburg, 327 Kil., railway in
8-8:'/4 hrs. (27 kr. 90, 19 kr. 70, 13 kr. 15 0.).
The train skirts the Sund, passing (5 Kil.) /Irici/", to (10 Kil.)
Lomma . with brick-yards and a cement-factory, and then turns
inland. In the distance, on the right, we see Lund Cathedral. —
16 Kil. FUidie; 20 Kil. St'ifvie; 22 Kil. Furulund.
25 Kil. Kjeplnge, on the Loddea, is the junction of the line to
Trelleborg, Lund, and Landskrona (see p. 278).
34 Kil. Teckomalorp is the junction for the lines from Eslof
(15 Kil.; p. 278) to Landskrona and Helsingborg. — The latter
line runs to the W. to (40 Kil. ; 6 Kil. from Teckomatorp) Billeberga.,
where the railway to Landskrona diverges to the left..
From Billeberga railway in 20iiiin. to (11 Kil.) Landskrona (Slads- Hotel,
very fair; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. F. E. Neess), a seaport with 14,600 inhab.,
and a castle, completed in 1543, now used ^s a prison. Steamboat to
Copenbagen, once or twice daily. Railway to Attorp via Ollarp and Billes-
holm. see below.
Beyond (46 Kil.) Tagarp the Helsingborg train crosses the Lands-
krona and Billcsholm line by a lofty iron bridge ; on the right is tlio
churcli of Ottarp. — 53 Kil. Vallakra; 58 Kil. Ganloftn; 62 Kil.
Raus (on the Sund, a little to the W., lies the large flshing-villagc
of Rita, connected with Helsingborg by a branch-line); 66 Kil.
Ramlosal^. 284). — 68 Kil. J lelaingborg [Central Station), see p. 283.
The line from Teckamatorp to Engelholm runs to the N. 39 Kil.
Svalof, witli a government agricultural institution ('SvenskaUtsades
Foreningen'). — 46 Kil. Axelfold; 50 Kil. Kagerod.
60 Kil. BiUesholm, with coal-mines. Branch to Bjuf (p. 284),
on the Helsingborg and Astorp line. The coal-fields extending to the
N.W. from BiUesholm and Qvidinge to Hoganas (p. 285) are the
only ones in Sweden. Still more important than the coal are the
clay deposits of this region, supplying the excellent material from
which the well-known "Swedish clinlvcrs' (tiles) are made.
Near (63 Kil.) .\oTra \ra>n is Vrams-Gunnarstorp (left), an old
manor of the Tornerhjelm family, with an interesting chateau (re-
cently restored) in the Dutch Renaissance style, surrounded by woods.
69 Kil. Astorp is the junction for Helsingborg and Vernamo
(see p. 284), for Helsingborg and Hesslcholm (p. 284), and for
Kaitarp and Hoganas (see p. 285). — 76 Kil. Spannarp. — 83 Kil.
Engelholm (p. 285).
18*
276
39. From Malmo to Nassjo (Stockholm) via Lund.
FuoM Malmo to Nassjo , 268 Kil. (167 Engl. M.). Hodra Stambanan.
Express train in 5-7 lirs. (fares 22 kr. 80, 16 kr. 10 6.); ordinary train
in 10 hrs. (fares 14 kr. 10, 9 kr. 40 6.). To Lund, 17 Kil., in 1/2-IV2 br.
(fares 1 kr. 45, 1 kr. 5, 70 o., or 90, GO o.). — From Malmo to Stockholm,
618 Kil. (383 M.) ; mail train in 123/4, express in 15-16 hrs. (fares 52 kr. 65,
37 kr. 10, 23 kr. 40 6.) ; ordinary train in 38 hrs. (fares 32 kr. 45, 21 kr. 65 6.).
Sleeping-berth, 1st cl. 5 kr., 2nd cl. 3 kr., in addition to the fare, irrespective
of the distance. — Each carriage contains a notice as to stoppages for
refreshments; dining-car on the day-express.
Malmo, see p. 273. The train skirts the Sound, crosses the
Segea near (5 Kil.) Arlof, and then the Hojea. At Arlof are a
sugar-refinery and a carriage-factory. Near (9 Kil.) Akarp is the
agricultural school (Landbruksinstitut) of Alnarp. Fertile country
with extensive corn-fields and beautiful groves of beeches. Close to
Lund are three large medical institutions belonging to the university.
17 Kil. Lund. — Hotels. *Grand Hotel (PI. a; A, 3), in the Ban-T(irg,
near the station, a handsome and comfortable house of the first class,
R. IVs-^'/z, B. 1, D. IV2-2V2, S- 1-2 kr., with good cafe and restaurant. —
Jernvags-Hotel. opposite the station, Central Hotel, Stora Kungs-Gatan,
to the S. of the cathedral, both unpretending. — Bookseller: Oleerup
(Hjalmar Holier), Stora Soder-Gatan at the Stor-Torg. — Post Office
(PI. 6; A, 3), Kloster-Gatan.
Lund, once called Londinum Oothorum, an ancient town with
17,000 inhab., was the largest town in Scandinavia until the middle
of the loth century. In the 12-15th cent, it was also known as
Melropolii Daniae, as being the seat of a Danish archbishopric, and
it is said to have had 24 churches. At the present day it has a dull,
rustic appearance, especially during the university vacations.
From the Railway Station (PI. A, 2) we walk through Kloster-
Gatan, passing the Grand Hotel, to the centre of the town, with the
cathedral and the university. On the way, immediately to the left
in the second side-street on the left, is the house of the poet
Esaias Tegner (PI. 1, B 2; pron. Tenyare ; 1782-1846), who lived
here in 1813-26 and wrote his Frithjof, Gerda, etc. The house
(adm. 12-2) contains a few memorials of the poet.
The *Cathedeal (PI. B, 3), one of the finest churches in Scan-
dinavia, was consecrated by Archbishop Eskil (p. Iv) in 1145. It
is a late-Romanesque edifice, with two towers and a semicircular
apse, and has been judiciously restored. The exterior is elaborately
adorned in a manner that recalls the Middle Rhenish style of the
12th cent., and probably dates from the period after the fire of 1172.
We notice in particular the choir, with round-arched frieze borne
by columns in the first story, blind arcades in the window-story,
and above these an open colonnade.
The Interior (generally open in the forenoon ; entrance on the W.
side; 'klockare', or sacristan, Lilla Kungs-Gatan 2), although only 210 ft.
in length, 108 ft. wide, and 70 ft. high, looks much larger owing to the
breadth of the W. end, and to the fact that the pavement rises in the
middle I'/i ft. above the level of the aisles. Nine pillars on each side
separate the nave from the aisles. Seventeen steps ascend from the nave
LUND, ' 39. Route. 277
to the imiiosing transept, and one more to the choir. We observe the
new Bronze Doors, the handsome Pulpit of black marble and alabaster (1692),
the carved Golhic C/ioir Slallt., the old seven-branched Candelabrum (1350)
behind the wltar, and the modern Frescoes on a gold background, by Thulin.
Under the transept and choir lies the grand *Crtpt (Kraftskyrkan),
121 ft. long, 5o ft. wide, and 13 ft. high, borne by 23 pillars and lighted
by ten small windows. In the N. arm of the crypt is a large We//, with
satirical figures and inscriptions by Van Duren, a Westphalian master,
who lived in Lund in 1513-27. Archbishop Birger (d.-.1519) is buried here.
On two of the pillars are the figures of the giant Finn and his wife, the
traditional builders of the church. They were hired by St. Lawrence to
construct the building, and they stipulated either for the sun and the moon,
or for the saint's own eyes as their reward, unless the holy man should
guess the giant's name. Luckily he overheard the giantess pronounce her
husband's name while she was lulling her child to sleep, and thus saved
his eyes. The enrag;ed couple then tried to pull the church down again,
but the saint converted them into stone, as their figures still testify.
In the beautiful promenades {Lundagard; PI. B, 2), shaded by
line chestnut, elm, and lime trees, to the N. of the cathedral, rise
the buildings of the University (PI. B, 2), founded in 1666, and
now attended by 6-700 students. On the E. side of the Plats is the
Zoological Museum (PI. B, 2, 3), where all the Scandinavian verte-
brates are represented. Farther on extends the Tegners- Plata,
embellished with a Statue of Emias Tegner by Qvarnstrom. Ou
the N. side of the Tegners-Plats is the building of the Akademiskit
Forening (PI. 4, B 2 ; with a restaurant, open to strangers). Ou
the'W. sideof the Lundagard is the /Jirari/ (PI. 3), with 180,000 vols,
(adm. 10-2; iti the vacation Tues. & Frid. only). Behind the library,
to the left, is the Univeksity proper (F1. 2), in the Greek Renaissance
style, designed by Helgo Zettervall, and erected in 1878-82. This
contains the Aula and the HUtorical Museum. The N. side of the
Plats is bounded by the University Gymnasium and Music Room
(Palaestra et Odeum; PI. 5), in front of which is a mound with a
collection of Runic stones. The students of Luud wear white caps
with a blue band (comp. p. 360).
In Adels-Gatan, to the E. of the Akademiska Forening, is the
entrance to the Museum of Social History (PI. B, 2), which is ac-
rommodatcd in a main building and several annexes, including a
citizen's house of the 17th cent, (from Malmo) and a peasant's
house from the province of Biekinge. This collection contains
8000 mediaeval and modern specimens (furniture, domestic utensils,
costumes, weapons, guild-articles, etc.); adm. daily from 10 a.m. (Sun.
from noon): to the garden 25 o., to the houses 26 o. (12-3 p.m. 50 o.).
The town is girdled with pleasant promenades. On the E. side
lies the Botanic Garden (PI. C, 2, 3). On the N. are the Physical
and Physiological Institutes, the park ot Helgonabacken ('saints' hill' ;
PI. C, 1), and the Gothic Allhelgonakyrka or Church of All Saints,
built in 1891 by Zettervall. On the S.E. side of the town is the Raby
Rdddiiings Inslitut (PI. 0, 4), a charitable establishment founded
by Gyllenkrook. To the S.W., beside the Observatory (PI. A, 3, 4),
is a pretty park(restaurant |, wherea baiiil frequently plays in summer.
278 Route 39. HESSLEHOLM. From Malmo
Fkom Lund to Landskbona (p. 275), 32 Ki]., railway in 11/4-2 hre.,
via Kjeflinge (p. 275).
Soon after leaving Lund the train passes on the left the Slipare-
hacke ('Hill of St. Liberius'), where the Danish kings used to
receive the homage of the Swedish province of Skane. A monument
records the victory of Charles XI. over the Danes in 1G76, which
finally extinguished the Danish claim to Skane. — At (^26 Kil.)
Ortofta, where a pretty ch;iteau is seen to the left, we cross the
Loddea.
34 Kil. Eslof (Jernvags-Hotel ; Niissons), with 1400 inhab.,
is the junction of lines to Landskrona and Hds'mghorg (p. 275)
to Ystad (p. 274), and to Christianstad. British Vice-Consul, Mr.
E. A. Borg.
From Eslof to Christianstad, 70 Kil., railway in 2-2^/4 hrs. (fares
3 kr. 70, 1 kr. 85 ij.). Unimportant stations. 20 Kil. Onshyholm, on the
Ringsjon, is an ancient^ mansion ; 24 Kil. Horhy (junction forHor):, 49 Kil.
Tollarp (junction for Ahus):, 57 Kil. Oieshohn. From Karpalund, the last
station, a Ijranch-line diverges to (35 Kil.) the seaport of Ahus.
70 Kil. Christianstad (■//o^«/ 7J>is«//f(«), a town with 10,400 inhab., and
seat of (he Hkanska Hofratt (appeal - court of Skane), established in the.
Kronhns, was founded by Christian IV. of Denmark in 1614. It lies on a
peninsula formed by the Helgea. The Church was erected in 1G17. —
Chrjstianstad is the junction of a network of railways. Lines run hence
to Ahus (see above); to Kwlshamn, via Jiackaskog and Solvesboi'ij (p. 279);
to aiimakra ; to Hessleholm (see below) ; and to Hcislveda (see below). On the
last line lies Frtjjas, [with the chateau of Count Wachtmeister, containing
an admirable collection of old Dutch pictures.
44 Kil. Stehag, amidst pretty beech-woods , a little beyond
which the Ringsjo (184 ft.) lies on the right. The lake is sur-
rounded by handsome private residences , including the formor
Bosji) Convent (not visible from the railway). 54 Kil. Hljr, whence a
branch-line runs to (13 Kil.) Horhy. To the N. of the station rises
the basaltic ,4nnf7i;Ze/'. Near (68 KW.) Sosdalais the church oiMallhy.
83 Kil. Hessleholm (Bern's Hotel, with rail, restaurant; Nya
Hotel), a thriving place. To the W. lies LakeFinja (150 ft.).
From Hesiteliolm to Heliinghorg, see p. 284; to Chrisiian.tlad (see above),
30 Kil., in 11/4 hr. ; to Markarvd, uninteresting.
92 Kil. Balingslbf; 102 Kil. //astueda (branch- line to Chris-
ianstad, see above); 113 Kil. Ousby ; 125 Kil. Killeberg.
Before crossing the boundary between Skane and Smalund
we enter a dreary and interminable Skog, a favourite theme in
popular Swedish song. This region consists of a chaos of moor,
swamp, forest, ponds, lakes, hills, and rocks, formed by the action
of the ice with which the wliole peninsula was once covered. The
stones and rocks, worn and rounded by glacier-action, are generally
clothed with a thin carpet of mossy vegetation. The forest (sfcoy,
from skugga, 'shadow', as contrasted with lund, 'pleasant grove')
consists of pines and deciduous trees. The engineering of the
railway presented great difficulties here. Embankments, cuttings,
and hridges are very numerous. On each side lie long ramparts
to Nds/>jo. ALFVESTA. 39. Route. 279
built up of loose stones. At places, however, we pass fields and
pasture* with herds of cattle. A few churches with detached hel-
fries (ktockstapel), and red cottages, roofed with green turf, are
also seen at intervals. Manufactories are occasionally passed, and
mills border most of the rivers.
From (134 Kil.) Elmhult, the first station in Smaland, a branch-
line runs to the S., via Gyl.<hoda and Olofstrom , to Solvesborg
(7'2 Kil., in 3-4 hrs. ; p. 278). Farther on we have a view, to the
right, of Rashult, with an obelisk in memory of Linmeus, who was
born there (13th May, ITOTJ. His father was assistant-pastor of
this parish, but removed the following year to Stenbrohult in the
vicinity. Fine views of the long Mbckeln-Sjo (446 ft.), farther on. —
150 Kil. Liatorp.
168 Kil. Vislanda.
From Vislanda to Halmstad (p. 286j, 115 Kil,, railway in about 6hrs.
The chief station on the route is Bolmen, on the lake (465 ft.) of that
name, 10 31. Ions; and 6 31. broa<l, from which the Lagai (p. 285) issues.
In the lake is the long island of Bolmso, once the seat uf the heathen
kings of Finveden, as W. Smaland is called, containing curious tombstones.
From Vislanda to Karlshamn, 78Kil., railway in33/4-i>/2 hrs. (fares
5 kr. 50, 3 kr. 55 o.). Karlsha&n (S(adsliuset), a town with 72(X) inhab.,
lies at the mouth of the Miea. in the pretty district oi Blekinge. — From
Karlshamn to the W. to CkrisHanstad, see p. 278 ; to the E. to Karlskrona
(p. 280) 70 Kil., via Ronneliy. Ronneby is a small town prettily situated
on the navigable river of the same name. About '/z M. below the railway-
station are the frequented chalybeate baths <if Helsohrunn, with parks and
numerous villas, connected with the station by a short branch-line and
with the town by steam-launches.
182 Kil. Alfvesta {*RiM. Restaurant, with rooms, D. II/2 ^r.),
where a long stoppage is usually made, is prettily situated at the
N. end of Lake Salen (470 ft.). On the right is the old church of
Aringsas, with a belfry. — To Karlskrona and Kalmar, see below.
194 Kil. Moheda. Then Lamhult (with the OronskuUe, 387 ft.,
on the left), Slockaryd, Sdfsjb (junction for Hvetlanda), Sandsjo,
and Grimstorp. Countless lakes.
268 Kil. Nassjo (1020 ft.; *RaU. Restaurant; *Hotel Svensson,
R. 11/2-3 kr.; Stora Hotel, K. IV^-^Vo, D. IVi^^r-). jinK'tion for
Ji'inkbping (p. 301), Oskarshamn (p. 282), and Halmstad (p. 285).
From Nassjo to Stockholm, see p. 307.
40. From Alfvesta to Karlskrona and Kalmar
via Vexio. Oland.
From Alfvesta to Vexiu, 18 Kil., in '/j V'l l^i"- (fares 1 kr. 30, 65 ii.); from
Vexii) to Karlskrona, 114 Kil., in 4',2-5'/.!lirs. 18 kr. 55, 4 kr. .30 6.). — From
Emmdboda to Kalmar, 57 Kil., in 23/4 hr.s. (4 kr. 30, 2 kr. 15 ii.).
Alfvesta, see above. This line traverses a wooded district,
nnlivened here and there with the cottage of a settler, with its
patch of pasture and its peculiar fence of oblique stakes.
8 Kil. (/c)/ii(f, with luanufactories. 13 Kil. 7i!(7;);(C, on the Helgasjli
280 Tt'mte 40. KARLSKHONA. From Alfvesta
(^011 wLicli a steamer plies), at the point ■whence it falls into the
Bergqvarasjo. To the S. of the station, close to the latter lake,
is the estate of Bergqvara, with a picturesque ruined castle.
18 Kil. Vexio C*StacU-Ilotel^' Stora Hotel, Kungs-Gatan 1, near
the station, R. 1V2'3) ^-i from 1 to 5 p.m., I'/i'^ kr., with restaurant
and cafe; Hotel Nysironi), the capital of the Kronohergs-Lcin, dating
as a town from 1342, now with 6600 inhah., rebuilt on a more
spacious plan since the fires of 1830 and 1840, lies at the N. end
of the Vexio-Sjo. The Cathedral, built about 1300, is dedicated to
St. Siegfrid (d. about 1030), the apostle of this region. On the S.
side of the market-place is the Radlms, and on the N. side is the
residence of the Landshofding. — The Smaland Museum, in the Forn-
Sal ('Hall of Antiquities') on a hill to the S. of the station, contains
a collection of antiquities, a library, a cabinet of coins, etc. (adm.
on "Wed. & Sat., 10-12, free). A band plays on summer-evenings
in the grounds surrounding the building (cafe'- restaurant). Norr-
Gatan, which passes behind the Landshofding's residence, is con-
tinued outside the town by an avenue, ascending to the episcopal
residence of Ostrabo, occupied after 1826 by Tegne'r (p. 276). The
poet, who became insane in 1840 and clied here on 2nd Nov., 1846,
is buried in the cemetery to the W. of the town, by the S.W,
wall, where his grave is shaded by a canopy of maples.
Fkom Vexio to Asheda, 60 Kil., narrow-gauge railway in 3 hrs. —
The first station is (6 Kil.) Evedal, in a bay of the Helgasjo (p. 279), the
starting-point for a walk to the (.3 Kil.) royal estate of Kronoberg, with
the fine ruins of the once strong castle of Kronoberg (which has given its
name to the Kronobergs-Liin). — 4i Kil. KlafreslriJm, with iron-works. —
The other stations are unimportant.
Fkom Vexio to Ronnebt, 92 Kil., railway in 472 hrs. — From (37 Kil.)
Qvarnamala a brauch-line runs tu Jit/d. 55 Kil. Tingiryd: 86 Kil. Bredhkra.
— 92 Kil. Ronneby, see p. 279.
The train now traverses an interminable forest, relieved with
many lakes. — 31 Kil. Aryd; 43 Kil. Hofmantorp ; 52 Kil. Les-
Kebo (branch-line to Maleras, see below).
75 Kil. Emmaboda^ junction for Karlskrona and for Kalmar
(sec below). — The Karlskrona line passes several unimportant
stations. The train quits the mainland at (125 Kil.) Thorskors,
crosses several bridges and islands, and reaches —
132 Kil. Karlskrona (*Stads-Hotel; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. A.
Paiander), the headquarters of the Swedish navy, with 24,600 in-
hab., situated on an island. Karlskrona was founded in 1680 by
Charles XI., a statue of whom, by Borjesson, embellishes the Hog-
lands Park. — Railway to Torsas, and thence to Kalmar (87 Kil.).
Feom Emmaboda (see above) to Kalmar. — 27 Kil. Nylro,
whence a branch-line runs to the iron-works of Sdfsjdslrom, via
Maleras (see above). 41 Kil. Trekanten. The train now reaches a
more smiling coast-district, where birches, oaks, and beeches
appear. In tlie distance is the island of Oland (p. 282).
to Kalmar. KALMAR. 40. Route. 281
57 Kil. Kalmar. — Hotels. Ckntral Hotel, nearest the station
in the Theater-Plats, K. & B. (inly (restaurant in the Theatre, opposite);
Stads-Hotel, in the marki't-place, equidistant (7-8 min.) from the station
and the quay, with restaurant; Witt's Hotel, close to ihe preceding. — •
Cab from the quay to the castle, 50 ci. — British Vice-Consul, Mr. John
Jeanson.
Kalmar, the capital of the Kalmar-Ldn, a very ancient town
■with 12,300 inhab., lies partly on the mainland and partly on two
islands in the Kalmarsund , which separates the coast from the
island of Oland. In 1397 Kalmar, which used to he called Wikets
nyckeV (the key of the kingdom), witnessed the conclusion of the
Kalmar Union (p. Ix), hy which the three Scandinavian kingdoms
were united for a century and a quarter. Gustavus Adolphus came
to Kalmar in 1620 to escort his bride, Princess Maria Eleonora of
Brandenburg, to Stockholm, where their marriage was to take place.
The railway-station is on the S.W. side of the Qvarnholm, the
island on which the greater part of the town lies. The cross-streets
leading to the S.E. from the long thoroughfares beginning at the
station, end at the harbour. — In the market-place, near the
centre of the town, rises the Cathedral, designed by Nic. Tessin
(p. 321) and built of stone from the quarries of Oland in 1660-69.
Stor-Gatan, wliich crosses the market lengthwise, passes the
Theater-Plats, and is continued to the S.W. by an avenue, at the
end of which is a spacious bridge connecting the Qvarnholm with
the mainland. This avenue may be reached direct from the station
by the road to the left from the exit. The tall red tower on our
right as we cross the bridge belongs to the water-works.
On reaching tlie mainland we turn to the left and cross the
railway-line to reach the attractive Public Park. A monument here
commemorates Gustavus Vasa's return from liiibeck in May, 1520,
when he first set foot again on Swedish soil at Stenso, 3 Kil. to the
S.W. of Kalmar. Beyond the park is the entrance to the castle.
The castle oi*Kalmarn(iliU!<, a large quadrangular edifice, with
tlve towers, ramparts, and moats, situatetl on an island, was built
in the 12th cent., cnlarg(>d in the latter half of the 16th cent., and
has recently been restored. Between 1307 and 1611 it resisted no
fewer than twenty- four sieges. In the court is a Renaissance
fountain ; straight on is the 'Vaktmastare's' house ; in the rear corner
is the church; to the risht is the entrance to the Kalmar Historical
Museum (week-days 10-12, 26 (i., at other hours 50 o. ; Sun. 2-3,
26 ij., 3-5, 10 o). The bulk of the collection is in the so-called
Union Hall, which is, liowever, of later date than the Union. The
old *Royal Apartment ('Gamla Kongsmaket'), with fine inlaid
panelling on the ceiling and walls, is farther embellished with
large coloured reliefs of hunting scenes of the time of Eric XIV.
The Lo/.enge Room ('liutsalen'), dating from the reign of John 111.,
Is under restoration.
To the X.AW of the (own, beyond the suburb "f Midmen, is (3 Kil.)
Hkii/hii, Willi ;i line park. Ahoiit CO Kil. to the S, are the round cluirches
282 Route 40. OSKARSHAMN.
of Hagby and Voxtorp (like that of Solna near Stockholm, p. 355), and the
famous Broinse-Bro, or bridge over the Bromseback, once the boundary be-
tween Swedish and Danish territory.
From Kalmar we may cross to the large Island of Oland (steamer to
Borgholm daily), lying parallel with the coast, 150 Kil. Ions; and 3-15 Kil.
in breadth. It contains 40,000 inhab., who are chiefly engaged in farming
and cattle-breeding. Among the other resources of the island is a quarry
of alum-slate near Mbckleby, at the S. end.
Oland does not Itelon'^ to the usual Swedish granite formation, but
consists mainly of a reddish limestone plateau, originally formed under
the sea, rising abruptly on theW. side in the southern half of the island,
but sloping gently down to the E. coast. Between the clilTs (landborgar).,
which are dotted with windmills, and the sea, particularly on the W.
side, extends a fertile and partly wooded plain with numerous villages.
The plateau in the centre of the island is partly occupied by arid and
unfruitful tracts (Alvar) exposed to extreme heat in summer. At the
N. end of the island the coast is covered with sandy downs, particularly
at Grankulla in the parish of Boda. At this end of the island the main
road runs inland, but farther S. it follows the 'landborgar'. Those inter-
ested in prehistoric antiquities should notice the curious groups of stones
(stenslittiiingar) arranged in the form of ships, with prow, stern, masts,
and benches for rowers.
The capital of the island is Borgholm (Victoria; Stads-Hotel; Brit.
Con. Agent, Mr. G. E. Erichsoyi) , a small town and watering-place with
9tK) inhab., prettily situated, near which (V4 hr.) is an imposing ruined
"Castle, built by John III., and destroyed by fire in 1806 (fine view). A
memorial stone recalls King Charles XV. , who used to shoot here. —
About 13 Kil. to the S. of Borgholm a road diverges to the left from the
main road to the village of Hogsrum, near which is ^Noah^s Ark\ the finest
of the prehistoric monuments above mentioned. Near it are two curious
tall stones known as Odens Flisor; the large 'fornborgar' or prehistoric
forts of Ismanstovp and Vipetorp, built of granite and limestone without
mortar; and also several barrows of the flint period, in which the island
generally is very rich. — From the main road, 3 Kil. farther to the S., we
turn to the right, enjoying a beautiful view of the Kalmar-Sund, to Siora
ROr (inn). Some 13 Kil. farther to the S. (about 32 Kil. from Borgholm)
lies Fdrjesladen (inn), 'the ferry-place', whence we may cross to Kalmar
(about G Kil.) by steamboat.
From Kalmar to Wisby., gee p. 362.
From Kalmar a railway (77 Kil., in 3^/^ hrs.) runs to the N. to
Berya, junction for the line from Nassjii to Oikarshamn (see below").
A steamboat also plies from Kalmar (2-3 times weekly, in 5 hrs.)
to —
Oskarshamn (Hotel Kung Oscar ; Stads-Hotel ; Brit, vice-consul,
Mr. O. Wingren), a ship-building town (7000 inhab.] with a trade
in timber, grain, and cattle.
Kailway to Nassjo, 148 Kil., in 5 hrs. (fares 9 kr. 65, 5 kr. 55 (i.).
The line traverses a well-wooded country. — 28 Kil. Berga (see
above). — 65 Kil. Hultsfred, the junction of branch -lines to
Storebro and Vlmmerby (21 Kil.), two small manufacturing towns,
and to Ankarsrum (with iron-works) and (70 Kil.) Vestervlk (see
p. 310). — 127 Kil. Eksjo (Stadshus), a town with 3500 inhab.,
near which is a curious Skurugata, a ravine 125 ft. deep, 20 ft.
wide, and nearly 2 M. long, penetrating a rocky hill.
148 Kil. Nussjli, see p. 279.
283
41. From fCopmhagenJ Helsingborg to Gotenburg-.
Besides the r;iihva,v between Copealiagen and Ootenburg described
below, Steamers ply daily in summer. The direct steamers fake 14-20 hrs.;
the 'Halland' steamers, starting in tlie morning from the corner of
Havne-Gaden and the Nyhavn at Copenhagen, touch at Landskrona (p. 275),
Ilelsinijhorij , Ilalmstiid , and Varberg , and reach Gotenburg about noon
(if next day. — The Katlegal, through which we steer, forma the mouth
of the Baltic. On an average there are 24 days when the current runs
out from the Baltic for every 10 days when the tide sets in. These cur-
rents and the gales which often visit the Kattegat are apt to be un-
pleasant even in summer. In fine weather , however, the voyage is an
agreeable one. The finest part of it is the passage through the mouth
of the Sound, between Helsingo)\ with Kronborg (p. 438), and Helsingborg.
Farther on, the promontory ol KuUeii (p. 285) is conspicuous. The ves.sel then
loses .light of the Swedish coast. Before entering the 'skjir' or island-belt
of Ootenburg we observe on the left the islet of iN^ediw^'en, with two towers
and beacon-ligbt. Entrance to Gotenburg, see p. 86, and Map, p. 291.
Railway from Helsingborg to Gotenburg ( Vestkustbanan), 244 Kil.,
in 6V<-11'A br.^.; e.xpress fares 20 kr. 75, 14 kr. 65, 9 kr. 90 6.; ordinary
fares (no 1st cl.) 12 kr. 85, 8 kr. 55 6.
Express-train from Copenhagen to Helsingor, in 48 ntiii., and
steamer thence to Helsingborg (customs-examination), in 20 min.,
sec II. 69. The Gotenburg train awaits passengers at the harbour.
Helsingborg. — The Central .Elation lies on the S. side of the old
town, 6-7 min. from the market-place. — Tlie Gotenburg trains also stop
at the steam-ferry landing-stage.
Hotels (all with cafes - restaurants). 'Hotel Mollbeug , an old-
established hou.^e at the upper end of the Torg, near the harbour, with
baths, hot-air heating, etc^ R. 2V2-5'/2, B. 1 kr. 35 0., D. i'/-.!-2VL> kr.,
'sexor' (p. xxvi) 2 kr. — Hotel d'Angleterre, Continental, in Jernvags-
Gatan, which skirts the harbour and main railway-station, both very fair,
but loo near the busy shunting-yard of the railway. — Less pretending:
MuNTiiE, in the Turg.
Post Office, Siidra .'^tor-( kitan. — Telegraph Office, beside the custom-
hoose al tlie liarbour. — British Vice-Consul, Mr. C. G. M. Westrup. —
U. S. Commercial Agent, Mr. Lars Virgin.
lldsinybory, a thriving seaport with 25,000 inh.ib., stretches at
tliu loot and along the slope of a ridge of hills (125 ft.) on the nar-
rowest part of the Oresund or Sound, here only about 21/2 M. wide,
opposite Helsingijr and the Kronborg (p. 438). The harbour has
rcc.ently been enlarged. A tablet on the steamboat-quay commem-
orates the landing here, on Oct. 22nd, 1810, of Charles John
(Bernadotte), after his unanimous election as crown-prince (p. Ix.xi).
The central point of the older part of the town is occupied by the
inark( t-place (Toryel), which extends upwards from the harbour
iH>ar the haiidsonie new liadhus. An equestrian statue of Count
Mu(inus Stenbock (16(14-1717), by H. Borgeson, erected in 1901,
coinincuKirates the victory of the Swedish geuoral over the Danes
who, thinking to prolit by Charles XII's discomfiture after the
battle of Ptiltava (p. Ixviii), tried to reconquer Skane. A new quarter
has .sprung up within the last twenty or thirty years to the S. of the
central railway-station.
On the hill above tin; old town rises the consplctioiis brick tower
of h'arnan, the relic of a castle frequently mentioned in tlie wars of
2M Route 41. HELSINGBORG. From Helsingb org
the Hansa with the Danes and Swedes. It is reached by following
Sodra Stor-Gatan to the right from the upper end of the Torg,
then after about 100 paces to the left (before the Gothic Church
of the Virgiri), and at the top (reached partly by steps) to the left
again. The new red building at the top is the Latinskola. The
Karnan is 115 ft. in height, and its walls, 13 ft. thicli, have a cir-
cumference of 196 ft. (adm. daily in summer from 8 to 8; 10 6.).
The *Vlew from the summit (186 steps) is the finest on the Sound
(comp. Map, p. 438). Opposite lies Helsingcir, with the Kronborg ;
to the S. is the island of ^i;en(p. 435), to the N. rises the promon-
tory of Kullen (p. 285). The 'Vaiitmastare', who, however, in
summer is always in the tower, lives at No. 46 Langvinkels-Gatan,
the long street ascending the hill to the N. of the tower.
From the Fisk-Torg, a few min. to the N. of the Radhus, the
Helsovag leads to the right into a side-valley, in which lies the
mineral spring of Helsan^ with pleasant grounds (restaurant ; concert
in the afternoon, 25 6.). Adjacent on the S. (guide-post in the
Helsovag) is the pretty Oresund Park (adm. 10 o.; restaurant), the
upper entrance of which may also be reached direct from Karnan.
A road to the N. leads in a few minutes to the good Sea Baths,
beyond which lie several villas. To the right is the long viaduct of
the Gotenburg railway. On the coast, about 5 Kil. to the N., is the
royal chateau of Softero, and 3 Kil. beyond it is Kulla Gunnarstorp,
a chateau of Count Wachtmeister , built in 1870, adjoined by a
mediaeval castle and a line park.
From EeUinghorg to Eslof, aee p. 278.
From Helsingboeg to Hessleholm, 77 Kil., express in 2'/2, oi-dinary
train in 3 hours. The line intersects the coal-field mentioned at p. 275.
3 Kil. Kamlosa, where theEslof line diverges (p. 278); 5 Kil. Ramlosabrunn,
a small mineral bath; 18 Kil. BJuf, junction of a branch-line to Billes-
holm (p. 275). — 21 Kil. GwmarUorp. In the woods, t^o the right, rises
the chateau of Vrams- Gurmantorp (p. 275). — 24 Kil. Astorp (p. 275). —
26 Kil. Karreberga (see below). — 35 Kil. Klippan, with a large paper-
mill, is the junction for a branch-line via Skdralid, Rostanga, and BilUnge
to Eslof (40 Kil.; see p. 278). — 52 Kil. Perslorp ; 65 Kil. Tyringe; 72 Kil.
Finja, on the wood-girt FinjasJO. — 77 Kil. Hessleholm, see p. 278.
Fkom Helsingborg 10 JoNKoPiNG VIA Veknamo, 246 Kil., express train
in 71/2 hrs. ; fares (2nd & 3rd class) 18 kr. 35, 12 kr. 25 0. — From Helsiug-
borg to (26 Kil.) Karreberga, see above. The scenery traversed resembles
that of Smiiland (p. 2?8). No important stations. 82 Kil. Markarpd, the
junction for the Hessleholm line (p. 278), on the Laga& or Lagan, the
wooded valley of which we now ascend. — 96 Kil. Sfromsnasbruk, with
a paper-mill. — 132 Kil. Ljunghy (Jernvags-Hotel), on the right bank of
the Lagaa, with 80J inhab. and several factories. — 153 Kil. Vidostern, at
the S. end of the lake of the same name. The line skirts the W. bank of
this lake to (174 Kil.) Vemamo (Jernvdg$-Holel), the junction for the Halm-
stad and Nassjii line (p. 286), which we follow as far as (211 Kil.) Vaggei-yd,
Hence to Nassjii, see p. 2b6. The stations in the direction of Joukoping
are unimportant. 233 Kil. Smalands Taberg (p. 302). — 246 Kil. JSnkopiny,
see p. 301.
The GoTBNBUKQ Railway ascends by means of a long viaduct,
soon losing sight of the Sound. Tlie fertile but monotonous plain
to GolenhuTfj. HALMSTAD. 41. Route. 285
is bounded on the E. by the Sbderas range. To the W. rises the
Kullen (see below), 9 Kil. Odakra. — 14 Kil. Kattarp, where our
line is crossed by that from Astorp (p. 275) to Hbgands (see below).
Fkom Kattarp to Hoganas, 15 KiJ., railway in ^/4 Lr. (stations un-
iiiiportanl). — Iliiganiis (Hotel lldganas, at Hoganas Ofre station; Schweit/'s
Hotel, at Hoganas Nedre station), an industrial place of 4000 inhab. , with
coal-mines and large manufactures of fire-proof bricks, drain-pipes, and
pottery, is the starting-point for a visit to the Promontory of Kullen,
which projects boldly into the Kattegat towards the N.W., like a huge
finger, separating it from the SkeJdervik. At Hoganas Ofre carriages may
be hired (3 kr., with two horses 4 kr.) or the omnibus (1 kr.) taken via
(7 Kil.) Krappervp., rine of the largest old manors in Sweden, to the fish-
ing-villase of (3 Kil) Molle (Hotel Kullaberg ; Jonsen). Thence the road
goes on via (3 Kil.) the KvUngPird {^ao^ pens., 3 kr.) to the (1 Kil.) Kullafyr,
the lighthouse on the extremity of the Kullen (288 ft.; carr. from Molle
and back, with stay, 3 kr.). — The best point of view is the Bareknlle. a
height ascended from the Kockcnhut (a pretty villa 2 Kil. from Krapperup)
or from Blolle. — In calm weather a boat may be hired (4-5 kr.) tor the
row round the Kullen from Molle, passing several rock caves, to (13 Kil.)
ArildsUige (restaurant), on the Skeldervik. The JosepTiinehtst, one of the
finest of the caves, may be reached also by land from the KullagSrd.
18 Kil. Rogle; 21 Kil. Vegeholm. We then cross the Vegea,
which separates Malmohus-Lan from Christianstads-Ldn, and tra-
verse a wooded district.
27 Kil. Engelholm (Hotel Thor), with 2600 inhab., fishery, and
corn-trade, lies on the Ronnea, which the railway crosses, and
is also the station for the Malmo line (p. 275). — 30 Kil. Bud
Engelholm shamn, on the Skeldervik. To the left is the fishing-
village of Skepparkroken. To the right rises the long range of the
Hallandsas.
36 Kil. Barkakra ; 40 Kil. Fbrslbf. Wooded heights alternate
with arable land. Now and then we get a glimpse of the sea. We
ascend the Hallandsas in curves to (45 Kil.) Grefvie, with a view
of the sea and the Kullen. We then descend the valley of the.S'm-
(irp, which gradually expands, and are carried by an embankment
77 ft. high to(53 Kil.)the station of Bastad, v/hicli lies about 3 Kil.
from the village and bathing-resort of that name.
The train enters the province of Halland, crosses the Stensa,
and traverses a level tract. b9 Ki\. Skottorp , near the estates of
.\'ya Skottorp (where the line crosses the Smedjea) and Gamla Skot-
torp , where Charles XI. wedded the Danish princess Ulrika Eleo-
nora iti 1680. — 63 Kil. Vnllberga ; 68 Kil. Laholm, an old town
with 1600 inhab., on the Lagaa, which we cross. Large quantities
of salmon are caught in this river, especially at the Kassefors,
6 Kil. from Laholm, with a royal fish-breeding establishment. —
74 Kil. Veinge ; 77 Kil. Qentvad, where we cross the stream of that
name. 81 Kil. Eldsherga, beyond which we near the sea. Beyond
(85 Kil.) Trbnninge the Fyllea is crossed.
93 Kil. Halmstad (Hotel Martenson, connected with the Tivoli
gardens; Railway Restmcrnnt, D. 1 kr. 75, coffee and cake 35 6.;
Brit, vice-consul, Mr. T. Scheie), with 15,600 inhab., the capital of
286 Route 11. VARBEUG.
the Hallands-Ldn, lies on the N. bank of the Halmstadsbuyt, at the
mouth of the Nissaa, which the railway crosses by an iron bridge.
The old Castle is now occupied by the Landshofding. The Church
(restored) dates from the 15th century. In the Norre Port is a small
museum. — 94 Kil. Halmstad Norra is a station for slow trains only.
From Halmstad to Vislanda, see p. 279.
From Halmstad to Nassjo, 196 Kil., express in 6, ordinavy train in
11 hrs. (fare^ 15 kr. 70, 11 kr. 80, 9 kr. 80 6.). The train ascends the valley
of the Nissaa. 5 Ki\. Sperlingsholm, an old estate of the barons and counts
Sperlins, with a modern chateau and a large park. — We cross to the
left bank. — 19 Kil. Oskarsirom, with a jute- factory, on a fall of the
Nissaa. — 39 Kil. Torup, on the Kilaii, a tributary of the NissaS,. After
crossing the latter river we reach (47 Kil.) Ainnared, at the conQuence
of the Vesteru and the Ostera, which form the NissaS (l)ranch -line to
Atran 18 Kil.). The main line now skirts the right bank of the Ostera to
the N.E. — 73 Kil. Smalandsstenar, with factories, so-called from an ancient
group of stones (p. 28'i) lying i/z M. from the rail, station. The country
is wooded. — 115 Kil. Vernamo (Rail. Restaurant), the junction of the
railway from Helsingborg (p. 284). — The line now bends to the N. iind
ascends the v;illey of the Lagaa. At (152 Kil.) Vaggeryd it forks, one
branch g 'ing to Jonkdping (p. 301), and the other to Nas'jo. The latter
ascends past (161 Kil.) Hook to (188 Kil.) Fredriksdal { 1040 ft.), and descends
tbence to (196 Kil.) Nassjij (see p. 279).
Traversing a sandy plain and pine-woods, we pass near Vajmo,
the estate of the family of Stael-Holstein. lOSKil. GuUbrandstorp ;
108 Kil. Harplinge; 112 Kil. Br annarp. Fertile country with many
farms. On the left are the churches of Steninge and Refuinge and
the estate oiBararp. Fine woods and hills of some height are now
passed. On the right lie the large farms oiSusegarden^niFrbllinge.
— 116 Kil. Getinge; the village lies on the opposite bank of the
Stora, which falls into the Susea farther on, by the turreted chateau
of Mostorp. The train crosses the Susea, — 121 Kil. Sloinge; 125 Kil.
Heberg.
136 Kil. Falkenberg (Stads-Hotel), a town of 2300 inhab., with
the remains of a mediaeval fortress and an extensive salmon-flshery,
on the Atraa, which the train crosses. Branch-line to Holtskmga.
To the right we see the church of Stafsinge, and, near the small
station of Lis, the old mansion of Lindhult. 145 Kil. Langas;
153 Kil. Tvaaker, to the E. of which are the villages of JernmbUe
and Jernvirke, so named from former iron-mines. 157 Kil. Himle.
We then pass several villages and through a cutting in the Apel-
viksberg and reach the coast.
167 Kil. N arhevg (Varberg's Hotel; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. Robt.
C. T. Jobson), a town of 4800 inhab., with sea-baths and a con-
spicuous old castle, now a gaol, which we see on the left.
Fkom Varbeeg via Bokas to Herkljunga, 127 Kil., railway in 4'/2-
5V2 hrs. Few stations of importance. The line traverses pleasant country.
13 Kil. Fritsla; 72 Kil. Viskafovs; 76 Kil. Rydboholm, all with large cotton-
factories..;— 84 Kil. BorSs, with two stttions; Nedre Station (p. 292) and
(85 Kil.) Ofre Station. Boras (Hotel Westergotland; ffCtel du Nord) is a
busy manufacturing town of 16,000 inhab. and the junction of several
railways; the houses are mostly of timber. — 91 Kil. Skogsryd, prettily
situated on the Oresjo, which the line skirts. — 98 Kil. Frislad ; 104 Kil.
Borgstena; 116 Kjl. Ljung. — 127 Kil. Herrljunga, see p. 300.
GOTENBURG. 4:>. Route. 287
Wc skirt the coast, where the beginning of the 'skilrgard' or is-
land-belt is marked by the large flat island of Gettero, and cross the
H'nnlna. The coast becomes more rocky, with long peninsulas jut-
ting from it at intervals. On the left is the village oi. Arnas, on the
site of the trading town of Aranns., destroyed by the Norwegians in
1265. 180 Kil. AMoster, on the left bank of the Viskaa, which
falls into the Klosterfjord here and is crossed by the railway. Be-
yond (184 Kil.)7?ac/crt the line reaches the Fenrfeiso Fjord and crosses
the Lbftaa. 192 Kil. Frillesas; 197 Kil. Asa, on the large Kungs-
backa Fjord. The valleys which intersect the barren cliffs are fertile
and well cultivated. On a peninsula to the left stands the old man-
sion of Tjolbliolm. We ascend a valley, past the large villages of
Torpa and 2'om, where we observe a fine beech-grove, and cross the
plain of Dufvelieden to (208 Kil.) Fjdras. To the E., above us, lies
the mountain -lake of Lygner, from the inundations of which the
plain is protected by an old moraine (Fjdras Brdcka). On the lake
lies Gasevadholm., the estate of the Barons of Silfverskjold. We
next cross the Rolfsa, the discharge of Lake Lygner. — ■ 216 Kil.
Kungsbacka, a little town which has given its name to the large bay.
221 Kil. Anneberg; 226 Kil. Lindome. Then across a marshy plain,
and over the Mblndalsa, to (236 Kil.) Fdssberg, the station for Mbln-
dal, a town with cotton and weaving factories, and (239 Kil.) Alme-
dal, another busy manufacturing place. Lastly we recross the Miiln-
dalsa by a viaduct 660 yds. long. To the right is the old Gbla
Lejon, to the left the suburb of Stampen.
244 Kil. Gotenburg.
42. Gotenburg.
Arrival. The large sea-going .steamers land al the Stora Bommens llninii
(PI. D, 'J), the canal-steamers at the Lilla Bommens Ilavin (I'l. E, 1), both
at some distance from the hotels. Comp. Sveriges Kommnnikationer, where
under 'Goteborg' a complete list is given of the steamers sailing 'Norrut,
Osternt, Soderut, and Vesterut'. Hotel - omnibuses (!/•.■ kr.l and cabs (sec
p. 2'^8) meet the steamers. The Stockholm Railway Station {Statens Bangard ;
PI. F, i) is ciDse to the hotels. The other stations are a litlle farther off:
Bergslagernas Station (PI. F, 1), for the W. coast railway (R. 41), r.oras
(p. 292), Trollhiittan and Norway (R. 43), and Falun (B. 5i3) ; Vestgdtabanans
Station (PI. F, 2), for Skara (p. 292): Siiro Station (PI. D, 6), near the
Slottskogs-Piirk, reached by the electric tramway.
Hotels (electric lij^ht, lift, and baths at all the larger houses). *Guand-
rioTEL IIaglund (PI. a; F, 2), at the K. end of Sijdra Ilamn-Gatan, of the
lirst class, with good cald-rcslaurant, American bar, tourist-inquiry-oflice,
etc., R. from 2V.;, B. I'A, dej. 2, D. (2-6p.m.) 3, (6-7 p.ra.) 4, S. (from 7 p.m.)
2 kr. ; "Hotel Kggkhs (1*1. c; F, 2), Urottnini;-Torget 25, with cafe-
restaurant, R. 2-15, B. 1, dejeuner 2, I). 2-3, S. 2 kr" — Hotel Got.\kali,are
(pron. 'chcllare'; PI. 1>, > 2), Ostra LarmGalan 2, nearly opposite the
preceding and the property ol the same company, E. 2-12, B. ^/.i-V/i, 1).
(1-5 p.m.) i'/.>-2 kr. ; Hotel Arkadrn, nearly opposite the Gustav-Adnlfs-
Torg, at the corner of Siidra and Ostra llamn-fiatan (PI. F, 2), R from IV2,
B. 3/4, D. 2 kr., very fair; KuNG Kaul (PI. d ; F, 2), Kils-Kricsons-Gatan 23,
R. IV4-.'). B. 3/1, D. lVi-2. S. 1 kr., well spoken of-, Hotel du Nori., Kiipmans-
Gatan 50; Stkakd Hotel, near the poat-ollice (Pl.K, 2), with lilt, restaurant.
288 lioute -12. GOTENBURG. Practical Nvtea.
and view of the harbour; Hotel Rotal (PI. c ; F, 2), Ostra Larm-Gatan 8 ;
Hi'iT. d'ANGLETERRE, Nils-Ericsons-Gatan 9, E. 1-272, B. 3/4-1 kr., with ba'hs.
Restaurants. 'Tvadgardsfoveningen (p. 290; concerts in the evening,
adm. 10 o.); Eenriksherg (PI. A, 4; see p. 291), with fine views, D. ii/2 kr.,
very fair; Lorensberg (PI. G, H, 4), containing a bust of the poet Vadman
by ifolin. — Beer at Weise^s, Sodra Ilamn-Gatan 17. — Cafes (Schweilzerier);
Brautigam, Ostra Hamn-Gatan 37; Folkerson' t ^{aXso confectioner), Ostra
Hamn-Gatan 46.
The Gotenbnrg Licensing System, which has given rise to so much
controversy, has been in operation here for many years and has worked well.
It is at least certain that drunkenness has diminished greatly of late years.
The leading features of the system of licensing, or rather of nora-licensing,
are that a company is empowered to buy up all licenses and existing
rights, and to open a limited number of shops for the sale of pure and
unadulterated spirits, the salaried managers of which have no interest
whatever in the sale of the spirits. The company, which is under the
supervision of the municipality, after deducting interest at the rate of
5 per cent on the capital expended, hands over the whole of the surplus
profits to the civic authorities, thus affording substantial relief to the
rate-payers.
Cabs (Droskor). Drive within the town, 1-2 pers. 75 6., 3-4 pers. 1 kr.,
longer drive IV4-IV4 kr. — One hour, 1-2 pers. IV2 kr. , 3-4 pers. 2 kr. ;
each '/2 hr. more 60 or 75 6. — Each trunk 10 6. — Carriages hired from
the hotels cost about 4 kr. per hr., besides fee to driver.
Tramways (EWktrislca ISparvagnar ; fare 10 o., incl. transfers or ofver-
gaiigs-hiljetter). The central converging point is the DroUning-Torg (PI. F,
(J, 2), while the Brwivs-Park (PI. F, 2) and the UUa-Torg (PI. E, 2) are
important points of intersection. The following lines intersect at the
Drottning-Torg : 1. Ring Line (white boards) via Nils - Ericsons - Gatan,
St. EriksGatan, Post Office, Lilla Target, Vestra Hamn Gatan, Victoria-
Gatan, Vester-Gatan, Sloltskogs-Park (P\. C,D,lj), Linne-Gatan, Sodra Allee-
Gatan, Victoria-Gatao, Vasa-Gatan, Kungsports-Avenyen (transfer-station,
Valand), and Brunnspark back to the Drottning-Torg. — 2 From Majorna
(PI. A, 4) via Lilla-Torg and Drottning-Tnrg, to RedbergsUd (PI. J, 1). —
3. From RedbergsUd (PI. J, i) via, Drottning-Torg, BrunnsPark, and Kungs-
porls-Avenyen to Getebergsang (PI. J, 5). — Line 4, whichst arts at Majorna
(PI. A, 4), follows Line 2 as far as the Brimns-Park, and then Line 3 to
Getebergsang (PI. .T, 5).
Steamboats to Christiania (see R. 14), Fredrikshavn, Copenhagen, Sam-
hurg ; to London, Hull, Leilh, see pp. xii, xiii; also to Venersborg -dni Stock-
holm, etc.. see Sveriges Kommunikafioner. — Steam Launches (Atigslupar)
ply from the Skeppsbro (PI. D, 3) to Klippan (every 1/2 hr.), Blasan (PI. A, 3;
every ','2 hr.), Nya Var/vet (hourly), Langedrag, Sti/i'so, etc.
Sea Baths at Sciro (p. 292) and Styrso (steamboat in 1 hr., fare 50 o. ;
see above). — Eiver Baths by the Hising-Bro (PI. E, 1). Warm Baths in the
Cenfral-Badanstalt, Drottning-Gatan 37 (PI. F, 2).
Banks & Money Changers. Riksbank, Sodra Hamn-Gatan 27; Goteborgs
Enskilda Bank, Lilla Torget 6; Skandinaviek Bank, Vestra Hamn-Gatan 6;
Broderna Larson, Norra Hamn-Gatan 38.
Booksellers. If. J. Gumperis, W. Hartelius, N. P. Pehrsson, Wettergren
ct Kerber (agents of the Sveuska Turistforening), all in Sodra Hamn-Gatau.
— Photographs. Aron Jonason, Sodra Hamn-Gatan 43; Bruce, Kungs-
Gatan 57. — Swedish Costumes and Knicknacks : Svenska KonstslOjdutstdll-
ning, Sodra Hamn-Gatan 45.
Post Office (PI. 23; E, 2), Skeppsbro. — Telegraph Office (PI. E, 3),
Vestra Hamn-Gatan 15
British Consul, John Duff, Esq. — American Consul, Robt. S, S. Bergh,
Esq. — Lloyd's Agents, Sinclair <fc Co., Badhus-Gatan 3.
English Church (St. Andrew^s), Kasern-Torget; services at 11.30 a.m.
and 6.30 p.m. Chaplain Ree. C. Lutz.
GusUif-Adolfs-Torg. GOTENBURO. 42. Route. 289
Gotenburg (57° 42' 28" N. lat.), Swed. Ooteborg (pron. Yote-
borg), a busy and prosperous commercial aud industrial city, an'd
next to Stockholm the lihief town in Sweden, Is the seat of a bishop
and of the Landshdfding of Gottborgs-och-Bohus-Ldn. It lies in an
extensive plain on the left bank of the broad Gotn-Elf, about 5 M.
from its mouth, and has an excellent harbour, which is rarely blocked
with iie. The town was fo\inded in 1619, on the invitation of
Gustavus Adolphus, by Dutch settlers [including the wealthy
Abraham Cabeliou), who brought with them their national style of
constructing streets and canals. Numerous Scotsmen and Germans
were also among the first colonists. The first strong impulse to its
commerce was given by the great continental blockade (1806),
during which it formed the chief depot of the English trade with
the north of Europe. Gotenburg now owns a commercial fleet of
over 200 steamers and has worldwide business-connections. The
chief articles of export are iron-ore, iron and steel, and timber,
the last going principally to Great Britain, France, and Australia.
The staple manufactures are iron, steel, machinery, cotton, beer,
and sugar, and ship-building is largely carried on. The population,
which was 20,000 in 1840 and 76,400 in 1880, was 132,100 in 1901 ;
including the suburbs of Gullbergs Vass,Stampen, and Gamlesladen
to the E., Hnga, Albostaden, and Annedal to the S. and S.W., and
Masthugget and Mdjorna to the W. In the centre of the town rise
considerable hills of gneiss, which are gradually being built over.
The business-centre of the town , about equidistant (8 min.)
from the railway-stations and the steamboat-quay, is the Gustaf-
Adolfs-Torg (PI. E, F, 2), on the N. side of which rises the Bors,
or Exchange, erected in 1849, with twelve columns in front. To
the W. of it is the Radhus, or Town Hall, designed by Nic. Tessin,
and built in 1070, but much altered since. Behind it is the German
Chrislina-Kyrka (PI. 5). In the centre of the Torg is a Statue of
Gustauus Adolphus (PI. 4), the founder of Gotenburg, by Fogelberg.
This was the second statue cast at Munich from the same model.
The first was wrecked on its way from Hamburg to Gotenburg, and
was recovered by sailors of Heligoland, who claimed so exorbitant
salvage that the Gotenburgers preferred to have the statue executed
anew (1854). The original statue is now at Bremen.
By the Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg is the junction of the Stora-Hamn-
Kanal and the Ostrn-IIamn-Kanal, the two chief canals in the town.
The former is flanked with the handsome quays called Norra and
Sodra Hamn-Gatan. — In the S.E. angle formed by these canals
lies the small Drunns-Park (PI. F, 2).
At Norra Hamn-Gatan 12, in the building of the old East
India Company, is Goteborgs Museum (PI. E, 2), open on week-
days 1 1-3, Sundays 12-3 (free on Wed. & Sun. ; at other times 25 (i.).
Ill tlie Vestilmlc :n-c alleijoiical frescoes, by (I. Pauli (18%): (lofen-
hurg in the middle, wilU Cunuuerce mi the left aii'l Siieiur ami .\rt mi
Bakukkkk'jj Norway and Sweden. Stli Kdit. Hi
290 Route 42. GOTENBURG. Museum.
the right. — First Floor. Antiquities; Osteological Department of the
natural history collection (whale 60 ft. in length)-, and the Ethnographical
Collection. — Seconi) Floor. To the right: Coins, including specimens
of the stamped copper plaques used as money in the 17th and 18th cent. ;
Stuffed animals (fine A7^ or eland). To the left: Prehistoric antiquities;
Collection of Industrial Art (furniture of a room of 16(X); peasants' rooms).
— Third Floor. To the right: Collection of Weapons; Ornithological
Collection. To the left ; Ecclesiastical Antiquities, beyond which begin
the paintings (see below).
The Paintings and Sculptuues are arranged in the rear wing of the
building. We may reach them direct from the vestibule by crossing the
C()urt and entering the door inscribed 'Museum'. — On the groundQoor, to
the right, are plaster ca^ts, while to the left are works by Swedish sculptors
(P. Ilasselberg. The Grandfather, marble replica of the group mentioned at
p. c31; Boijeso7i, Uame of biwls, etc.). — We now mount the staircase, on
which are paintings Ijy N. Forsbcrg (Gustavus Adolphus at Liitzen), 0. Kall-
stenins (Summer), and others. — Entrance Room: Brger, Artists' breakfast
at Paris (188(j) ; P. S. Krevir, Messalina; 0. Tijorck. Portrait; A. Zorn, Girls
liatbing. — On the right is the Piirstenberg Collection (bequeathed to the
Museum in 1902), comprising al)out 20O pictures and a few sculptures:
A. Wahlberg, Mountain-scene; It. Bergh, Summer-evening in the Nirtb;
A. J'Jdelfell, Sea-piece: C. Larsson, Kenalssince, R icoco, and Modern Art;
U. Coliiii, Summer; sculptures by P. Haiselhtrg (Water lily. Frog, Snow-
drops). — On the other side of the entriince-room : B. Liljefors, Heath-
fowl; G. CederstrSm^ Salvation Army in a Paris cabaret; B. Lindholm, Sta-
pieci; P. £kstro/n, Sunlight. — Farther on to the right: A. Fa'dcrnntz,
Kvening-sfene near Motala; B. Oslermann, Jonas Lie, the author ; B. iSalnison,
Field-workers in Picardy; N. Mas, October rain; 6'. FJostaU , Snow;
C. G Hellqvitt, Louis XI. in his garden, contemplating executed criminals;
('. Fonld, Buried alive; King Charles XV., Norwegian fjord; C. .f. Htickerl
(d. ISGti), Queen Ctiristina of Sweden ordering the e.vecution of Monaldeschi,
her favourite, at Fonlainebleau ; Ad. Tidemand, Wounded bear-hunter. —
The older paintings include nothing of importance — At the end are wator-
colours and chalk dr<iwing<, beyond which we reach llic Ecclesiastical
Antiquities (see above).
A few paces to tlie W. of the Museum is the Harbour, with the
Stora Bominens Hamn (PI. D, 2), whence the sea-going and the
coasting steamers usually start. Nearthis is the Posf (>f^ce{?\. E,2),
opposite the Custom House ( Tull- och -Packhus). On a hill to the
right stands the School of Navigation. A little farther on are the
Prison and the Lilla Bommens Hamn (PI. E, 1), the landing-place
of the Swedish canal-steamers. — To the S. of the Stora Hamn
Canal, near the harbour, is the Landshofdings-ResiJens (PI. D, 2),
or residence of tlie governor of the district. The Skeppsbro (PI. D, 3),
near by, is a long quay from wliich the steam-launches start. — The
rocky height of the Lilla Oltcrhiilleherg (IT. D, 3), as -ended from
Stora Radhus-Gatan by a flight of 100 steps (no path at the top),
commands an extensive view of the town and environs.
Of the old fortifications the only extant relic is the wide moat
on the S.E., now flanked by the Kungs Park{y\. E, E, 3, 4) and the
Horticultural Society's gardens. Between these rises the Theatre
(IM. E, 3), beside which is placed the first reproduction of Molin's
flue group of the Baltespannare (PI. 1 ; see p. .342).
The gardens of the Horticultural Society (TrcidyardsfHreningen ;
PI. G, 2, 3), founded in 1842, with tlieir interesting hot-liouses
Slottskog Park. GOTENBURG. 42. Route. 291
and exotic plants, are very beautiful (adin. 10 u., liot-lioases 25 v.
extra). The principal entrances to the gardens are on the N., near
tlie Slussbro, and on the S.W., oijposite the Baltespiinnare. A band
plays at mid(4ay and in the evenings in summer beside or within
the large restaurant (p. 288).
The KuNGsroET Avenue, which ends at the pleasure-gardens of
Lorensbery , Vasa-Gatan , and other streets in the quarter to the
S.E. of the Nya AUee (PI. I), K, F, 4) are among the most fashion-
able in Gotenburg. In the Kungsport Avenue, close to the Nya
AUe'e, a statue erected in 1900 commemorates John Ericsson (PI. 2;
F, 3), inventor of the screw-propeller (1803-89) and of the famous
'Monitor' (pp. 328, 3B()). — Near the monument is the L'nivera'dy
(PI. 11 ; F, 3), founded by private subscription in 1887, and at
present comprising a faculty of arts only. It has an endowment
of ca. 3.000.000 kr., and possesses in addition a building- fund of
450,000 kr. (fur the contemplated new building). It numbers
11 professors, besides numerous lecturers, and is attended by about
100 students and over 1100 non-paying 'hearers'. — Vasa-Gatan
(PI. G, F, 4 ; K, 4, 5) skirts the Vasn Park, laid out in 1903, at
tlie W. end of which is the new Municipal Library, lompleted
in 1900 (PI. 12; 100,000 vols. ; ceiling- paintings by G. Paulij.
On the N. rises the Haga- h'yrka. At the corner of Engeibrekts-
Gataii and Victoria-Gatan is the Primary Srhool for Girls (^Elenuntar-
laroverket fir FUckor; PL 10, F 5), with ceiling-painting representing
the development of woman's life in Sweden, lii Victoria-Gatan is
the reservoir of the water-works (PI. F, 5).
The VV. suburbs, Masthugget (PI. B, C, 4. 5), with tlie St. Johannis-
Kyrka and the Gothic Oskar-Fredriks-Kyrka (built by Zettervall
in 1888-92), and Majorna (PI. A, 4, 5), with the Karl-Johans-
Kyrka. contain numerous factories. They are readied by tramways
Nos. 2 and 4 (see p. 288). Between the stations of Stigbergsliden
and Stigberiistorget (PI. A, 4), on the right^ is the restaurant of
Henriksberg (PI. A, 4; D. l'/o-2 kr.), on a hill commanding an
admirable view, especially by evening-light, of the broad river
and the island of llisingen, witli its ship-building yards and dry-
docks. — From the Stigbergs-Torg Ban-Gatan leads tu the left,
passing a small cemetery, to the Djurgards-Plats (Pi. A, 4) and
thence to the N.W. entrance of the Slottskog (20-25 min. in all).
Or we may return by the tramway to the Jerntorg (PI. C, 4), and
change on to the King Line.
The workmen's suburb of Annedal (PI. D, E, 6), laid out on the
system adopted in Miilhausen, is adjoined on the S.W. by the
^Slottskog Park (comp. PI. C, D, 6 and the Plan at p. 292 ; the
lUng Line mentioned at p. 288 leads to the N. E. entrance),
opened in 1875, with fine old oaks, ornamental lakes, and various
cafes, etc. (no spirituous liquors). Tlu; park extends over several
rocky hillocks and conimands attractive views; e.ij. from tlie Slorii
19*
292 Route 42. GOTENBURG. DanskaVag.
Vtslgt (PI. B, 6), a tower built in 1899 at tlie N. end, from the
Lilla Vtstyt near the dairy , and from the BergMyftan near the
Hjort-Park (with deer and elks).
Among the other churches of Gotenburg may be mentioned
the English Church (I'l. E, 3), in the Hvitfeldt-Plats, and the
Rom. Oath. St. Joseph's Chapel (PI. F, 1), in Spanmals-Gatan.
In the S.E. environs are numerous villas of the merchants of
Gotenburg, most of them on the Banska Vag (PI. K, 4). We may
take the tramway (No. 4; p. 288) via the Lorensberg to the Orgryte-
Viig (PI. I, 5), and then follow the latter street, crossing the Moln-
dalsa and passing under the Halland railway, via the small Orgryte-
Kyrka^ with its clmrdiyard. In about li/4hr. we reach the entrance
(on the left) to the late Mr. J. Dickson's villa of Ofveras, generally
open to the public ; good view from the hill behind the house. Farther
on, on the right side of the road, is the red brick Nya Orgryte-Kirka.
— About 3 Kil. beyond the bridge over the Molndalsa the Danska
Vag ends at the Hedbergs-Viig (PI. L, 1) ; tramway, see No. 3,
p. 288. To the right lies the Eastern Cemetery ('Ostra Begrafnings-
platseu'), containing a monument to Bengt Fogelberg by Molin.
that of Sven Renstrom by Scholandcr, and many others.
From GoTENBURn to Saro. Railway, opened in June, 1903 (statinn .it
the Slottskog Park, P). D, 6, reached by the King Tianiway Line,
p. 288 ; trains hourly in 1/2 hr. ; return-fares 2 kr. 20, 1 kr. 45 0.). Steamer
(starting from the Stenbro, PI. D, 2) in IV2-2 hrs. (fare IV2 kr., return
2'/2 kr.). — SSrb, on a rocky island approached from the mainland by
bridges, with a very fair hotel (R. I1/2-23/4 kr.) and restaurant, plajing-
{irounds, etc., is one of the mu.st charming sea-bathing resorts en the W.
coast of Sweden, and is frequently patronised by King Oscar. Sandy beach.
The park-like woods afford pleasant walks. Visitor^' tax, 2 kr. per week,
10 kr. for the season; families 3-5 and 12-15 kr. Farther information
obtained at the office of the bathing authorities.
From Gotunburg to Bok.4s, 72 Kil., railway in 2'/-.; hrs. (3 kr. 80,
2 kr. 55 o.). The train starts at the Bergslags station (PI. F, 1); and the line
traverses a pretty wooded and rocky district. — Boras (p. 2-6) is the
junction for lines to Vaj-berff (p. 2S6), to Svenljunga (39 Kil.), and to
Htrrljunga (p. 300).
From Gotenburg to Skaka, 129 Kil , narrow-gauge line in 43/4 brs.
(7 kr. 75, 5 kr. 20 6.). The chief intermediate stations are (86 Kil.) Tomleberj
and (93 Kil.) Vara. Tomlelierg is the junction for a branch-line to II°ikonlorj>
(12 Kil.; p. 297), which is continued to Lidkoping and for«/ie7» (Kinnekulle,
p. 297). — 129 kil. Skara (p. 300).
From Ctotetihuvg to Chrisiianiu l»j sea, see R. 14.
43. From Gotenburg to Venersborg. Lake Venern.
Western Gota Canal.
88 Kil. (55 M.). Railway ('Bergslagsbana' to Oxnered, and 'Uddevalla-
Ilerrljungabana' thence to Venersborg) in S-S'/a hrs. (fares 6 kr. 70, 3 kr. 40 o.).
Or we may take the Canal Steamer from Gotenburg to TroWititlan
(in 7-9 hrs. ; fares 41/2, 33/4, 3 kr.), a voyage which offers no attractiim beyond
the views of the G()ta-Elf„ itself and a rfance at the rain of Bohus. The
best plan is to land at Akersvass (p. 295); comp. p. 293. Nothing is seen
of the falls from the .steamer as it passes through the lock. Travellers
who intend to go on with the steamer should arrange with the captain
as to rejoining it at the highest bridge.
yjemvagsstetin
. }
Olide ^^iV"^
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TROLLHATTANJ/ „ ^ ^ JP^o" o^,..
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TROLLHATTAN. 43. Route. 293
'I'hc 'Bergslagsbana" ascends the broad valley of the Gota-Elf. To
tlic right lies the siibiiib of Stampen; then the Gota Lejon, an old
redoubt; to the ^eitOuUber(|s Vass. At the station of Olskroken the
Stockholm line diverges to the right (R. 44). To the left appears
the river. On each side of the valley are low granite hills over-
grown with brushwood. Several small stations. At Surte we ob-
serve, to the left, the large ruined castle of Bohus, which gives its
name to this district (Bolnis-Lun). 25 Kll. Nol. The train quits
the valley and ascends to the right. Scrubby woods, characteristic
of "W. Sweden. 65 Kil. Upphiirad. The view becomes more open,
and a few cultivated fields are passed. Stat. Vetanda, prettily
situated ; then, on the right, the llalleberg and Hunneberg (p. 296).
72 Kil. Trollhattan. — Arrival. Carriages from the two lai's^er
hotels meet the trains ('/2-I ki".). — There are two steamboat-quays: Akers-
vass, at the lower end of the canal (hotel-carriages meet the boats), and
beside the Grand- H6tel, at the upper end of the canal.
Hotels. Grand-Hotel, near the falls, 8/4 M. from the station, very
fair, R. 2'/2-4, B. 1-2, D. 3, S. lV2kr.-, Hotel Bellevoe (Utsigtek), IV2 M.
from the station, with view of the falls (p. 295), R. from 3, B. IV4, !'•
(2-4 p.m.) IV4-3. S. 11/2 kr. ; Jernvags Hotel (/. //. on the Map), at the
station, clean. — As the hotels are often full in summer, room.s should be
ordered bv post-card.
Baths'near the Grand-Hotel; for gentlemen 8-10, 12-4, 6-9, ladies 10 12,
-1-(J ; Sun. 8-10 a.m.
A visit to the Waterfalls and the Canal takes at least 3V2 lirs. 5
but as the morning-lights are the most favourable, it is better to spend a
night here. As the view gradually increases in beauty when the falls are
approached from below, some visitors prefer to skirt the canal from the
hotels to Akersvass (i hr.'s walk, 25 min. drive; carr. 2 kr.) and to ascend
thence by the Karlekens Stig beside the caf^ (to the Hot. Bellevue, ^4 hr-);
an alternative route for which our map atlords ample guidance (guide
unnecessary).
The Twist- Comili has jiublished a large-scale map (75 d.) of the walks,
etc., near the falls, and has appointed buys to act as guide*! under tarilV.
TroUhtitlan, a town with 6000 iiihab., consists almost entirely of
manufactories, which use the motive power afforded by the falls
(estimated at 220,000 horse-power), and of workmen's houses. The
*FaUs of Trolllidttan, six in number, besides several cataracts and
rapids distributed over a distance of 1600 yds., are in all 108 ft.
in height. Neither the falls nor their environs can be called pictur-
esque, and their effect is diminished by the islands in the middle
of the stream; but the enormous volume of water makes the spec-
tacle very imposing. The interest of tliis spot is greatly enliauced
by the skilfully constructed locks and sluices on the left side of the
river, which afford a waterway between Gotenburg and Lake
Venern (conip. pp. 298, 2V)9).
We follow the broad road from the station, aud(i/4hr.) cross the
N. entratice to the canal by the bridge to the right beyond the
Grand-Hotel; then, by the i?ro-Vakt, follow tlie broad path to tltc
right, crossing another islatul and the FMehlad Lock, which col-
lapsed in r7.')5 before it was completed, to the GuUdforshruk, a
large rolling-mill. From this point we have a view of the Guild
294 Route 43. TROLLHATTAN. From Gotenburg
Falls, 23 ft. ill height, divided by the Gullo (sec helow). — We
then return to the Bro-Vakt, follow it towards the S., descend to
the right after 2-3 min., and cross the bridge (right I to the island
of Ona. Here we skirt the yard of the large mill (to the right ;
direction-post), cross another bridge, and beyond a cellulose-fac-
tory reach a small swaying bridge to the island of Toppo (25 6. ;
two persons only may cross at a time ). This island affords the best
views of the **Toppd Fall, 42 ft. high, the grandest of the series,
which it separates from the Tjuf Fall ('thief fall') on the W. side.
The effect of the seething and foaming waters all around the island
is very striking. — A bridge (25 6.) crosses from the island of Ona
to the wooded island of Guild, the N. end of which commands
another view of the GuUii Falls.
We return to the left bank and walk in the direction of the
Gothic brick church on a hilj. Before reaching the church we turn
to the right to the iron King Oscar's Bridge (128 ft.), which affords
the finest general *View of the Toppo Fall. The stone arch whicli
connects the iron bridge with the left bank crosses Polhevi's Lock,
planned by the engineer Polhem, bnt left unfinished in 1755.
I'^ollowing a path from this point for a few paces, we reach the Kungs-
grotta [K. gr. on the Map), one half of a 'giant's cauldron', bearing
the names of many visitors. 'Jattegrytar', or 'giant's cauldrons',
which are of frequent occurrence in Norway and Sweden, have prob-
ably been formed by the erosive action of stones whirled round by
eddies in the beds of former rivers, like the similar phenomena
in the 'Glacier Garden' at Lucerne. The path diverging at the grotto
in the direction of the river leads to an iron platform above the
Sknnpcstrom Fall, 8 ft. high, below whicli the river expands into
the calm Hojumsvarp. The opposite bank is steep and rocky.
The carriage-road ascends to the left, on the right bank of tlie
stream. A footpath, diverging to the left a few paces from the
bridge, descends to an apparatus for catching salmon (La.ifiske),
where a platform commands a still finer *View of the Stampestrom
Fall. About 5 niin. farther on we quit the carriage-road and follow
the path (to the right; guide-post) to the 'Strtimsbergs Skog', which
brings us in about 10 min. to the Breidablick, not far from the Vilhi
Stromsberg. (C!arriages must drive round via Stromslund.) From
the Breidablick we have a view across the Gota-Elf, with the railway
bridge (p. 296), to the Halleberg and Hunneberg (p. 296). A path
diverging just short of the Breidablick in the direction of the river
leads to (3 min.) the mill on the GiiUoklint (view of the Nol Fall
and the island of Gullo). We retrace our steps for a few yards,
then turn to the left, and in 6 min. reach the Tliorsbad, where there
is an iron platform over the rapids. Farther on , beyond another
platform at the Tjufhalsklint, is the (4 min.) rocky promontory of
*8tromsbtrgklint, which commands a general survey of nearly all the
falls. In 4 min. more we rejoin the road above King Oscars Bridge.
toVenersborg. OXNERED. ^3. Route. 295
If lime permit, a visit may be paid to the Kopparkliiit (190 It. above
the sea-level), above the Helvetes Falls (see below). We ascend the carriage-
road for 5 min. more, then turn to the left (guide-po.^t) by a path which
brinjis us in 5 min. to the view-point, where an iron platform affords a line
view of the river far below. To the S. we see the lower course of the
river. Morning-light best.
Wc now return to tlie left bank and from Polhem's Lock
follow the carriage-road passing below the church through pine and
flr woods. After about 4 min., shortly before the road crosses a
mill-stream, we descend the path to the right (steps), which crosses
the mouth of the mill-stream, rounds the hill on which stands tlie
Hotel Bellevue, and skirts the Helvetes Falls ('hell falls'), in all
25 ft. in height. A few min. farther along the carriage-road another
'giant's cauldron" ("Jattegryta') may be observed on the left.
Still farther on a flnger-post points the way to the right to the
Hotel Bellevue (p. 293), a conspicuous object in the view from the
King Oscar's Bridge. The veranda and the tower of the hotel com-
mand extensive views (adm. 25 o.).
We now descend by a path through wood, passing the Mckanisk
Vcrkntad on the left, and skirt the river, which here expands into
the basin called Olidc- Halan. The path ('Dodens Gang') then
leads past the Flo ttb ergs sir bm and the Eb^il Sluss, another un-
finished lock by Polhem, and another path ('Kilrlekens Stig') leads
thence to (Vi 't-) tl^c lower entrance to the locks, at Akersonns,
where steamboat-passengers from Gotenburg usually land (p. 293).
'Schweitzer!' or cafe' here.
'i'iic eleven new *Locks of Akersvass, constructed by Nils Erics-
s'ju (d. 1870; pp. 328, 336) in 1836-44, ascend in three sections, be-
tween which arc basins where vessels pass each other. Adjacent arc
the Old Locks, opened in 1800, now used for small vessels only.
The traveller had better walk up the left bank of the new locks.
A nother path skirts the old locks. From the former path we cross one.
(if the locks to the N. bank of the canal and ascend to the (1/4 hr.)
Akersberg Bulconij (view) and the hamlet of Akersberg, where the
offii'os of the Lock Company are situated. — Thence to tlie railway
station, via the above-mentioned Mekanisk Vcrkstad, ^/4-i hr.
^Beside.s these locks at Akersvass there are two at Lilla Edet and one
al Akersstfom, below Trollhattan; and two more above it. at ISrinkebergs
Kiille near Veiiersborg, where the waterfall of R^nnum, 20 ft. high, has
to be avoided. These huge locks form a kind of staircase by means of which
ves.sols ((1000-7(00 annually) ascend and descend with case between the
North Sea and Lake Venern, 145 ft. above it.
Beyond TrolUiiittaii the train crosses the Gota-Elf and reaches - —
S2 Kil. Oxnered (^Rdilivay Restaurant and Hotel, D. I'/okr. ;
Oxnered's Hotel, by the station, both very fair), the junction of the
Bcrgslagsbana, which kocs on to Mellerud (for Fredrikshald and
Christiania), Kil, and Falun (see p. 371), with the Uddevalla and
Veiiersborg line. Passengers for the latter change carriages here.
296 Route 43. VENERSBORG. FromOotenburg
Feom Oxnered to Uddevalla (p. 35), 23 Kil., in l'/4 hour. — From
Uddevalla we may take tbe steamer through the 'Skargard', either to the
S. to G(itenbui-g, or to the K. to Stromstad and Fredrikshald (p. 81);
liut the 'Kommunikationcr' should be carefully studied on account of the
numerous changes necessary.
If the train from Oxnered to Venersborg (4 Kil.) does not suit,
we may take a carriage. Rail and road botli cross the Vassbotten,
a small bay of Lake Venern.
88 Kil. Venersborg ( Sladshus, with restaurant and cafe ; Strljins-
horg, a popular garden"), a town with 58'JO inhab., at the S. end of
Lake Venern, lies on tbe N. end of an island bounded on the W.
by the Vassbotten. on the S. by the Karlsgraf, and on the E. by
the Oota-Elf (see below"). Warned by frequent fires, the town now
consists of unusually wide streets.
On the left bank of the Gota-Elf , to the S.E. of Venersborg,
rise the steep and wooded HaUeherg (485 ft.) and the Hunneberg
(490 ft.), both with lakes and moors on their plateaux and numer-
ous elks (a royal preserve).
Feom Venersborg to Hekkljunga, 65 Kil., railway in 3 hrs. (fares
3 kr., 1 kr. 50 o.). The train crosses a cataract of the Gota-Klf, passes
between the Halleberg and the Hunneberg, and reaches (10 Kil.) Lilleskoy,
prettily situated. To the left lies the Deliern, a bay of I>ake Venern. —
22 Kil. Vara (p. 292). — From (37Kil.) HSkoniorp a narrow-gauge line diverges
to Tomlebevg and to Lidkoping, see p. 297). — 65 Kil. Herrljunga. p. 300.
From Venersborg by Steamboat on Lake Venern and the
W. Gota Canal to Karlsborg on Lake Vettern.
Steamboat in the direction of Stockholm 5 times weekly (once by
Lidkoping, Hellekis , and Mariestad) : to Motala (p. 306) in' 27-36 hrs.
(fares 16 kr. 50, 13 kr. 75 6., with separate cabin; 11 kr., with berth in
the saloon), to Stockholm in 56-61 hrs. The "W. Gota Canal (i.e. W. of
Lake Vettern) is very inferior in scenery to the E. Gota Canal. Most
travellers will visit the latter only, as the voyage all the way from Go-
tenburg to Stockholm (60-70 hrs. ; 30, 20, 12 krj, in spite of its undoubted
attractions, absorbs a great deal of time. The commissariat on board the
steamers is ample: tea or coffee with bread 35 ii.. Smorgasbord 1 kr., with
a hot dish 11/4 kr., D. 2 2V2 kr.
Other Steamers on Lake Venern : from Venersborg to Lidkoping.
Kinneknllc, and Maviestad twice weekly, going on once to Karlstad (p. 313)
and once to Christinehamn (p. 313).
Lake Venern [i. e. 'the Vener'), an immense sheet of water
(about 2400 sq. M. in area; 280 ft. deep; 145 ft. above the sea-
level), where storms sometimes impede navigation, forms an inland
sea into which fall most of the rivers of Vester-Gotland, Dais-
land, and Vermland, including the Klar-ELf, from Vermland, one
of the largest rivers in Scandinavia. These rivers, which expand
at places into long lakes, traverse vast tracts of forest, affording
excellent routes for the transport of timber to the lake. The Oota-
Elf is the only discharge of the lake. The Gota Canal connects
Lake Venern with Lake Vettern.
The S. part of Lake Venern, which the canal-steamers traverse,
is not very attractive. Looking back, we obtain a pleasing view of
to KarUhorg.
KfNNEKULLE.
4-J. Route. 297
the Halleberg and the Hunneberg (p. 296). The quick boats run
in 7 Ins. to Sjotorp. where tlie Oota Canal begins (p. 298). About
halfway, on the h'ollandso, an island surrounded by rocky islets,
rises the well - preserved mediieval chateau of Lecko. with several
towers, now government property.
By Lecko, to the S., opens the bay of Kinne Viken, on the E.
side of which rises the Kinnekulle (see below ). The first station,
5 hours' steam from Venersborg, is —
Lidkoping (*Hotel Lidkoping; *Svea), the oldest town on Lake
A'enern, with 5500inhab., situated at the mouth of the Lida. The
town has been burned down several times, and, with its church, has
been entirely rebuilt since 1849.
Railway by Hakantovp ti) Venersborg. see p. 296; by Skara to Muriestad
or to Stenstorp. see p. 300; via KdUbi/, Blomberff, (22 Kil.) Rabdc/c, and
(26 Kil.) HeUekis to (29 Kil., in 1-1> ;. Lr.) ForsJiem (in direct connection wilh
Gofenburg, see p. 292). From Fovsliem the train goes on to (25 Kil.)
Mariettdd (p. 298).
The *Kinnekulle (pron. 'chin'), a long Isolated range, extending
9 M. from N. to S., and 4 M. from E. to W., is one of the most
interesting hill-regioiis in Sweden, both geologically and in point
of scenery. It rises in several steps or terraces corresponding to
geological periods ; granite, the lowest of these, is followed by
sandstone, alum-slate, limestone, clay-slate, and lastly by trap,
which has been upheaved in a liquid state through these other
formations. With its valleys and woods, its abrupt cliffs ('klefvor'),
298 Route 43. GOTA CANAL. From Venersborg
its ricli vegetatioTi, and its numerous farms and pastures, tlic
KinnckuUc forms quite a little world of its own.
The most convenient ascent to the mountain is that from Uttbiick
(^1 hr.'s journey from Lidkoping), a station on the just-mentioned
railway, which skirts the Kinnekulle on the side next the lake.
The canal-steamers touch at Hcllekis (also in 1 hr. from Lidkoping),
near the old manor of Hellekis, with its beautiful park, now the
property of a company, which is '/o hr. from Raback. (The mansion
contains the offices, a post-office, and a geological collection.) —
At Raback are the large *IIotel Kinnekulle (R. from IV2 kr. ; 5 min.
from the station) and, a little farther off, Baron Klingspor's estate
of Raback, with its charming park, to which visitors are freely ad-
mitted, rioasant walk of 1/4 hr. to the Morkeklef. The ascent of
tiic Hogkulle (1007 ft. above the sea, 862 ft. above the lake), the
highest point of the Kinnekulle, takes 1-1 1/4 hr. On the top is an
extensive view ; belvedere, 60 ft. high (adm. 25 0.), with a few beds
for travellers who desire to see the sunrise from this point.
Those who spend a few days in this neighbourhood should visit the old
churches of Medelplana, Vesterplaiia (2Y'j hrs. from the station of Blomberg,
p. 297), and Hufaby. That of Husaby, 11 Kil. to the S., is said to have
heen founded at the l>eginning of the 11th century. Olaf Eriksson, the first
Christian king of Sweden, is said to have been baptized in the spring at
llusaby. — From the Hogkulle to Gossater (p. 3(X)) is a walk of about
an hour.
In 2 hrs. from Hellekis the canal-steamer reaches Mariestad
(Stads-Hotel; Hot. Lindblom), the residence of the Landshofding of
Ska.r<iborgs-Lan, a town of 3500 inhab., founded by Charles IX. at
liic mouth of the Tida about the year 1600, and so named in honour
of his queen, a princess of the Palatinate. The town was rebuilt
after a fire in 1895. (Station on the lines from Forshem, from Moholm,
and from Skara, see pp. 297, 300.)
Passing the island of Thorso , we steam in I1/2 hr. more to
Sjotorp, where the western branch of the Gota Canal begins.
The natural depression which intersects S. Sweden from the Skager-
Uack to the Baltic, and which includes the great Venern, Vettern, and
Blalar Lakes, gave rise at an early period to the idea of connecting the
two seas by means of a canal. The queation was first mooted by Bishop
Brask of Linkoping (1516) and afterwards by Gustaf Vasa and CharlesIX.
The work was at length begun by Svedenbovg and Polhein under Charles XII.
(1716), and carried on by Winham (1753). These engineers attempted to
construct locks to enable vessels to pass the TroUhiitta Falls (comp. p. 295),
hut a great bulwark they had built to protect their works was destroyed
by floating timber in 1755. Nothing more was done till 1793, when a
company was formed for the construction of the 'old locks' of Trollhatla
fp. 295). The E. prolongation of the canal is chiefly due to Daniel Thun-
herg and Baron von Platen. The latter (d. 1829) set on foot the Gota Canal
Company (1810) and lived to see the completion of the greater part of
the work. The engineer was Thomas Telford, the Scotsman. The whole
route from Gotenburg to Mem on the Baltic (240 M. ; canal 56 M. only,
10 ft. deep) was opened in 1832. There are 58 locks in all, five being
used for the regulation of the water in the canal. About 300(3 vessels piiss
through the canal annually.
From Lake Venern to Lake Viken the canal mounts 155 ft.
Karl-oborg. DALSLANP CANAL. 4.3. h'oute. 299
more by means of twenty locks (9 near Sjotoip, '2 on tlie way to
\orrqvarn, 9 at Hajstorp). To Tdreboda, where the canal is crossed
by the Gotenburg ami Stockholm Railway , the steamer plies in
b^l-2 hours. Nearing Vagsbacken, the next station, we observe the
estate of Fimmersta on the right. Beyond Vassbacken, on the right,
a memorial stone marks the highest point of the Gota Canal (300 ft.)
above the sea-level. We then steam at the same level to Lake Vikcri,
which we enter through a lock. In the distance, at the S. end of
the lake, lies the manor of liyhulm. At the Forsvik station a lock
leads into the Botiensjo, on the S.W. side of which rises the Vaberg^
recently fortified. Rodesund l^n hour's steam from Forsvik), beau-
tifully situated on a peninsula between the Bottensjo and Lake
Vcttern, is the station for Earlsborg (Nicander's Hotel), a fortress
founded in 1820, and the terminus of the branch-line to Skofdt;
(p. 300). The passage across the latter lake to Vadstena or to Mo-
tala takes 2 hrs. more (see pp. 305, 306).
Tlio Balsland Canal, one of the most famous waterway.s in Sweden,
unitinf; Lake Venom with Fredrikshald in Norway, a distance of 100 M.,
wiis constructed in 1S63 6? hy Xils Ericsson (p. 2E5), but since the opening
of the railway only the central section of tbe canal is now traversed hy
passenger-steamers. It begins at Kopmannahro (p. 371), on Lake Venern.
Tlio most interesting point is at Hafverud, where the canal is carried across
a waterfall by means of a huge iron aquedict, 105 ft. in length and 15ft.
in width. The steamboats now begin Ihcir voyage beyond the chief locks,
at Beiiiiftfors . where the railway (p. 85) from Uddevalla and Backcfors
reaches the canal.
44. From Gotenburg to Katrineholm (and Stockholm).
h':i^ Kil. Kmkkss at ni^hl in 12 hrs.. l.v day in 141,- hrs. (fares 38 kr.
95, 27 kr. 50, 18 kr. 35 (i.). Sleeping-berth, isl cl. 5 kr., 'ind cl. 3 kr. extra.
The slow trains (fares 24 kr. 6, 16 kr. 5 (>.) lake two days. — Those who
wish to see Lake Vettern take the train from Fnlknping to JOttkoping, anil
the steamboat thence to Motola (p. 306).
Golcnhurg, see p. 287. To Olskroken, at which few trains stop,
see p. 293. The line turns to the right into the valley of the Safoea
and crosses it several times. 9 Kil. PartiUcd ; 15 Kil. Jonsered,
on the Aspen-Sjb, with cotton-factories. 20 Kil. Ltrum. 27 Kil.
Flodii, at tlie W. end of the Flodasjii. In the neighbourhood is the
former royal hunting-lodge of AViV», now in the possession of Mr.
A. Abrahamson , founder of a well-known School of Handicrafts
{^Slojdlarare-Seminariet''; director. Dr. Salomon). Farther on, an
embankment; then, a cutting through the Krosekulle. 35 Kil. Nor-
sesund.
46 Kil. Alingsas (Stads-Hotel), with 8200 inhab. and several
large weaving-factories, prettily situated near the influx of the
Safvea into Lake Maim, was founded in 1611 by inhabitants of
Lbdose, a town which had been destroyed by the Danes.
300 Route 44. SKOFDE.
The train crosses the river several times. 60 Kil. Lagmnnsholm.
Then dreary moors (iS^ya7tor, i.e. 'famine-lands'). 67 Kil. Vargarda.
80 Kil. Herrljunga (*Rail. Restaurant, B. or S. IV4 kr. ; Kjell-
gren's Hotel), junction of branch -lines to the N.W. to Vcners-
borg and Uddevalla (see p. 296), and to the S. to Boras (42 Kil.,
in 2 hrs.; see p. 292).
87 Ki\. Foglavik ; 101 K.i\. Sorby. At jl/r/r&f/fci/rfca the line reaches
its highest point (740 ft. above the sea-levelj.
114 Kil. Falkoping-Ranten (Rail. Restaurayit, B. or S. ll/2kr. ;
Rantens Hotel, at the station) is the junction for Jonkoping and
Nassjo (R. 45). The town of Falkoping, with 3000 inhab., lies
3/4 M. from the principal station, but has another station on the
line to Jonkoping (p. 303). Margaret of Denmarlv defeated King
Albert of Sweden here in 1389 (p. lix). Near the station rises
the Mosseberg ('cap hill'; 820 ft.), with a hydropathic and sana-
torium on its slope. The Alleberg resembles the Kinnekulle (p. 297)
in formation.
129 Kil. Stenstorp, junction of two branch-lines.
From Stekstorp to Hjo, 39 Kil., railway in 2-3 hrs. (fares 2kr.75, ikr.
60 6.). Stations unimportant. From Svenshvo a branch -line diverges to
Ekedalen and Tidaholm. — 'B.^o (Stads-Uotel; Royal), a town with 1400 in-
hab., lies on Lake Vettern, in a district known as Ouldkvoken ('golden
corner'). On the lake is a sea-bathing place (Restaurant Bellevue). Near
Hjo are several large estates and a hydropathic establishment. Steam-
bdats ply to the other towns on the lake. Opposite lies Hastholmen
with the Oniherg (p. 804; steamboat daily in 1 hr., fare 1 kr. 40 o.).
From Stenstorp to Lidkoping, 46 Kil., railway in 21/2-3 hrs. (3 kr.
SOi')., 2 kr.). The train crosses the Brunnemsberg, between the i/or7i6o)v/«-
Kjo (395 ft.) and the Billing. 10 Kil. Broddelorp. About 6 Kil. to the"E.
of (20 Kil.) Axva.ll, near the 'skjuts-station' Klostret, at the base of the
Billing, stands the Varnhems-Kiirka, a former Cistercian church of 1250,
containing tombs of the De la Gardie family.
28 Kil. Skara (Stads-ffotel, near the station), with 43(XJ inhab., was once
a famous episcopal town with si-x churches, mentioned by Adam of Bremen.
The Gothic "Cathedral, consecrated by Bishop Odgrim in 1151, and recently
restored, contains the marble sarcophagus of Erik Soop , who saved the
life of Gustavus Adolphus at the battle of Stuhm fin W. Prussia) in
1629. — From Skava a branch-line goes to Gossiiter (27 Kil. ; station for
the Kinnekulle, p. 297) and Forthem (29 Kil., in IV4 hr. ; see p. 297).
46 Kil. Lidkoping, see p. 297.
i^^KW. Skultorp. Skilfully engineered line. Fine view to the E.
145 Kil. Skofde (*Hotel Billingen), an old town with 4600 in-
hab., prettily situated at the foot of the Billing, junction of a
branch-line to Karlsborg (44 Kil.; in 1V2-2 hrs.; p. 299).
160 Kil. Vdring ; 167 Kil. Tidan. To the left, a view of £«fee
Osten and the fertile plain of Vadsbo. 171 Kil. Moholm, junction
of a branch-line to Mariestad (18 Kil., in 1 hr. ; p. 298).
At(184Kil.) Toreboda the train crosses the 6dta Ca?iaZ (p. 298).
It then traverses Tiveden, a dreary wooded region, the scene in
the 12th cent, of the contests between the rival kings Sverker and
Erik Jedvardsson (p. Iv),
JONKOPING. 45. Boute. 301
198 Kil. Elgaras ; 215 Kil. Finnerodja. To the left, a view of
tlie Skagern-Sjo (227 ft.). Then, the lake and village of Bodarne
on the right.
229 Kil. Laxa {^Rail. Restaurant ; Jernviiys-Hoiel). The railway
to Charlottenberg and Christiania diverges here to the left (see
R. 48). — A little to the N. is Porla Helsobrunn (p. 314), a small
M'atering-place, on the latter line.
244 Kil. Vretstcrp; to tire- N. rises the K'dsherg.
2o9 Kil. Hallsberg (Jemvdgs- Hotel; *RaU. Restaurant, D.
1* 2 kr.), an important station, is the junction for Orehro to the
N. (p. 369) and for Motala and M jolly (p. 308) to the S.
Farther on we obtain a fine view of the plain of Nerike. —
272 Kil. Falsboda, junction of a narrow-gauge line to Norsholni
(p. 310). — 284 Kil. KiUmo, on theN. bankof Lafce^o«ier?i; 294 Kil.
Hbgsj'6. 303 Kil. Vingaker is the centre of the district of that
name. Beyond it, on the left, lies the estate of Scifslaholm.
We pass the lakes of Viren, Kolsnar {nar, 'lake'), and Nasnnr,
and the chateau of Sjoholm. 316 Kil. Baggetorp.
3'24 Kil. Katrineholm [Jernvdgs-Uotel, with restaurant) is the
junction for NorrkiJping, Mjulby, Niissjo, and Malmo {RU. 47, 39).
Long halt.
From Katrineholm to (458 Kil.) Stockholm, see pp. 311, 312.
45. From Nassjo to Jonkoping and Falkoping.
H2Kil. SoDRA Stambana. Kxpress in2V4-4bi-3. (fiuesGkv. 75, 4 kv. 50o.).
ordinary train in 6'/a hrs. (fares 5 kr. 90, S kr. 95 o.). Views tn the right.
Ncissjo, see p. 279. — 16 Kil. Forserum; 27 Kil. Tenhult. The
train now begins to descend to the basin of Lake Vettern, about
670 ft. below, and alTords a series of beautiful views. To the right,
we observe Husqvarnawith its waterfall (p. 303), and in the distance
tlie Visingso in Lake Vettern. A little beyond Husqvarna, where
we are still 200 ft. above the lake, the train turns, descends to the
left, and then skirts the lake.
43 Kil. Jonkoping. — Railway Stations. The Main Station (PI.
C, 1) lies cliise to the harbovir, to the W. of the old town; a second sta-
tion (PI. E, 1), to the E. of the old town, is for the line to Husqvarna ami
Vireda; a third station (PI. C, ','), on the Munksjo, to the S. of the Lands-
hiJfdings-Residens (p. 302), serves the Vaggeryd-llalmstad line (p. 286).
Hotels. "Stora Hotkl (PI. a), Ostra Stor-Gatan, to the E. of the Main
Rail. Station, with garden, view of Lake Vettern, and good cuisine, IS.
i-t), H. 11/4, I>. (1-5 p. ni) or S. (8-12) V/2 kr. — Jkrnvags Hotkl (PI. bi,
opposite the Main Kail. Station, plain.
Cabs (stand in front of the Stora Hotel). Drive in the town not ex-
ceed in •.•: '/ilir. 5(lo.; to the restaurant in the Town Park (p. 302) 1 kr. ; to the
Aqueduct 3' •-', witli return by Diinkehallar •l'/-j-5 kr. -, to Sanna (p. 303) 3'/-' 1
to lliisqvarna 5 kr., with stay of 2 hrs. in each ca.ie.
Post Office (PI. 7), Hofratts-Toraet. — Telegraph Office, O.stra Stor-
Oatan 9.
302 Route 45. JONKOPING. From Nassjli
Junkopiny, one of the oldest towns in Sweden, repeatedly burn-
ed down, but rebuilt since 1835, contains 23,500 inbab. and impor-
tant manufactories, and is the capital of a province and the seat of
an appeal-court (_'Gota Hofratt'). It is charmingly situated between
the S. end of Lake Vettern and the smaller lakes Munksjo and
Rocksji). Roomy suburbs have been erected to the E. and W. of
the old town. The cheerful town , the sea-like expanse of Lake
Vettern (connected with the Munksjo^by a canal), the large canal-
steamers (p. 303), and the mountains to the S., all combine to
form a very beautiful picture.
The Skol Park extends to the S.E. from the Railway Station
(PI. 0, 1) to the Munksjo. In the park are a bust of Rydberg,
the poet (p. Ixxx) and a handsome Fountain by Molin. To the W.
is the Almcinna Liiroverk (PI. 2) , or grammar-school ; to the S. are
the Landshofdlngs-Residens (PI. 1), or house of the provincial gover-
nor, and the National Bank (PI. 3). The street behind the Liiro-
verk leads to the S. to the pleasant gardens of Stora Limugnen
(PI. C, 2). Farther to the S. is the large Munksjo Pappershruk
(PI. C,2). — The first cross-streets lead to the Sophia-Kyrka(P\. A),
designed by Zettervall (1888).
To the W. of the railway-station, on the bank of Lake Vettern,
lies the famous Match Manufactory {P\. C, 1 ; no admission), which
was founded in 1845 and attained a worldwide reputation after the
invention of the safety-match ('tJindstickor utan svafvel och fosfor')
by its owner, J. E. Lundstrom (1853). It now belongs to a company
and employs 800 workmen. — The Vestra J'dndsticks-Fabrik (PI. B,
1, 2), another match-factory in the W. suburb, employs 700 hands.
In the older part of the town, to the E. of the Stora Hotel, are
the Christina- Kyrka (PI. 5), bnilt in 1649-73, the Hofratt Building
(PI. 6; 17th cent.), and the Toicn Hall (PI. 9), the last two on the
S. and "W. sides of the Hofriitts-Torg.
Environs. Vestra Stor-Gatan, passing the S. side of the large
match-factory and then a school, leads to the Dunkehallar {PI. B, A, 1),
a suburban district, commanding a beautiful view and studded with villas.
The road ascends. To the right lies the W. Cemetery. An avenue to the
left leads to the Town Park (PI. B, 1). A footpath on the same side leads
past the shooting pavilion to BeUevue (PI. A, B, 1), a point of view about
1 M. from the Stora Hotel. Thence we may walk round the S. and E sides
of the Town Park and descend the flight of steps at a kiosque (rfmts.) to
the country-house called Backa'yckan (PI. B, 1). — A still finer 'View is
obtained from the ''Reservoir of the Water Works ( Valtenledningen ; PI. A, 3),
2'/^ M. to the S.W. We follow the road, which crosses the Jnnebdck, between
the match-factory (r.) and the Ask-Fabrik (box-factory; 1.). At the manor
of Piko we keep to the left. Beyond the fire-station and the pour-house we
reach (^4 lir.) 'he filtration basin, with the large fountains. Carriages wait
here, while we walk on via a ravine to the Vtsiktshtfrg. We may return
via Backalyckan and Dunkehallar. — On the E. side of the town we may
visit the East Cemetery (PI. E, F, 2) and the Ai-tillery Banackt (PI. F, 2).
Excursions. The Vaggeryd railway (p. 286; stat., see p. 301) ascends
the valley of the Tahergsa, via Ljvngavuni, Hofsliitt, and Norrahainmur, to
(13Kil.; IV-ihr.; return-fares 1 kr. 2U o , 1 kr.) Sinalands Taherg (666 ft.;
inu), whence we may ascend (25 iiiiu.) the Taberg (1125 ft), a hill consist-
ing almost wholly of magnetic iron ore. and commanding a survey of tlie
to Falkdping. HUSQVARNA. 45. Route. 303
forests (if Siualand. To reai-li the top (marked by a memorial (if the visit
of Oscar ]I.) we return along the railway for a few yards, pass under the
track, cross the Tabergsa, and ascend.
Hus(iVARNA may be reached either by the Gripenberg railway (see below;
return-fares 90, GO iij ur by carriage (8 Kil. ; see p. 301). The road passes
Sauna, pleasantly situated on Lake Vetern and consisting of a group of
villas clustering round an institute (founded in 1886) for the application of
Kellgren"s svstem of medical gymnastics (Director, Mr. II- Kellijren). This
is visited in summer (June-Sept. ) liy patients from all parts of the world,
and is connected with a similar institution in London (41) Katon Square, S.W.).
The waterfalls of Husqvarna have a total height of 360 ft., but this i.s
distributed over a con.'-iderable distance. About one-sixth of the water is
drawn off for a large huntin'j:-rine and sewing-machine factory. At present
we follow the road to the factory, cross tlie rails, take the path to the left,
and reach the (5 min.) Hotel (unpretending')- We then cro.ss the river by
the road and pass the house and garden of the Manai^er {Dispo/ienls-BiiffCfiiad ;
see inset-plan at p. 301). After 5 min. we keep to the left along the garden
fence to the conduit ('tublednirg), which brings the water to the turbine
of the factory. Beyond the conduit we reach the best -Point of View.
(A new path, not yet ready, diverges to the left 100 yds. from the rail,
station, runs to the K, of the factory, and crosses the 'Great Fair by a
foot-bridge.] We then recross the conduit and f(dlow the path to the E.
(branch to the light to another view-point) to the 'Upper Fall' and the
art-foundry of Ebbcs Bruk. — If the hours of the return-trains do not suit,
we may walk ti Ri sendala (see below).
Fitosi JoNKoi'iNG TO A'lKKDA, 43 Kil. railway {Oripey^hergslxma; ftalion,
see p. o'Ol) in V!i hr. (fares 1 kr. 95, 1 kr. 30. 0; return-fares to Vistakulle,
90, 60 o.). — The train crosses the Husqiarnaci. 5 Kil. Rosendala. Beyond
(? Kil.) Huiqvarna (see above) it turns back and ascends slowly along the
hilly ridge of Brantasen, above the road and the E. bank of Lake Vettern
(views). 11 Kil. Gisebo. — 13 Kil. Vistakulle (Restaurant at the station,
fair), perhaps the finest point on Lake Vettern. Finger-posts indicate the
way from the station to CA hr.) the top of the 'Kulle' (785 ft.), which affords
an extensive view. — Beyoml Vi.stakiillc the train passes seyeral lakes.
19 Kil. Ltjckas; 26 Kil. Brofjemari; 31 Kil. Bmw. — 43 Kil. Vireda.
For an excursion to the Visiiiffso (p. 304) we use the steamer 'Molala
Express' (6 times a week).
Leaving Joiikopiiig, the train skirts the W. hank of Lake
Vettern (views) and ascends for a long distance. 54 Kil. Bankeryd.,
with attractive villas. To the left rises the Dommeherg ; to the right,
in the distance, is the Yisingsii (p. 304). From (62 Kil.) Halo
we may pay a visit on foot or hy .skyds to (5 Kil.) the Haho-Kyrka,
an old timber church (rebuilt in 1723), with a painted interior.
The summit of the Dommeberg is 3 Kil. farther on. — Scenery
nnititeresting till we reach (75 Kil.) MiiUsJb. We cross Lake Slraken
by an embankment 424 yds. long. S6 Kil. Sandhem. 101 Kil.
Vartofld , junction for Vlricehimn on L(d:e Ammden (37'/2 Kil.).
Ill Kil. Falkbpiny Town; 1 i'2 Kil. Falkijpiny-Eanten, junction
of the Sodra and the Vestra Stambana (R. 44).
46. From Jonkoping to Stockholm by Lake Vettern
and the Eastern Gota Canal.
Steamboat from Jiinkiiping to Slock/udiii, via Orainn and Hiisthvlmen
(or via Hjo, p. 300, and Vudileiia), Molala., Norsholm., SOderkOpiiiff , and
HOdcrtelge , twice weekly, in 36 hrs. (fares 16 or 11 kr.); to Korsliolm
f) hrs. (9 or 7 kr.). Travellers who intend to ]iroceed by rail ()). 309)
from Herg or Norsholm should note that the canal-boats are often Jate.
304 Route 46. LAKE VETTERN.
*Lake Vettern (290 ft.), the most beautiful of the great lakes
of S. Sweden, is about 80 Engl. M. long and 12 M. broad. The N.
end is 65-100 ft. deep, the S. end 260-415 ft. The water is ex-
quisitely clear, bright objects being soniotimes seen at a depth of
100 ft. The lake is very liable to sudden storms, which sometimes
endanger the navigation. Being flanked by the tableland of Sma-
land, 600-700 ft. above it, and by the isolated Omberg and Vaberg,
rising opposite to each other (about 600 ft.), the lake is far more
picturesque than Lake Venern, while the Visingso, an island in
the middle of the lake, and the pretty towns and villages on Its
banks further enhance the scenery. The only effluent is the Motala,
which follows the line of the E. Gota Canal. At the N. end the
banks are flat. The lake is connected by the W. Gota Canal with
Lake Venern (p. 298).
About 1V2"2 lirs. after leaving Jiinkoping the steamer reaches
the Visingso, an island about 8 M. long and 2 M. broad, once the
property of the powerful Counts of Brahe, and now a royal domain
(Icungsladugard ; since 1683). At Visingsohamn, the landing-place
on the E. side of the island, are the *Hotel and the overgrown ruins
of the castle of Visingsborg (built in 1650 ; burned down in 1718).
Farther up is the Brahe-Kyrka, a church built by Count Per Brahe
in 1636, which is open on Tues., Wed., & Thurs., 2-3 p.m. (fee;
at other times the sacristan must be sent for). It contains the
tombs of the count (d. 1680) and his wife, an ancient ivory cru-
cifix, a silver chandelier, and other works of art. The middle of
the island is planted with oaks and firs; the other two-thirds are
in the hands of peasant-farmers (pop. 1200). In the N. part of the
island is the ancient Kumla-Kyrka. The large pheasantry of Baron
Dickson is hardly accessible.
Opposite the Visingso, on the E. bank of the lake, lies the
attractive little town of Grenna (Hotel Brahe), with 1300inhab.,
founded by Count Per Brahe in 1652. A good view is obtained
from the Qrennaherg , rising abruptly over the town. Excursions
(each there and back l*/2 lir.) may be made to the ruined castle of
Bruhehus, to the N. (fine view), and to the picturesque Kotlle Mill (S.).
Beyond Grenna the steamer usually steers N. to (2 hrs.) —
Hastholmen (^Hotel, well spoken of), a harbour to the S. of the
Omberg, which is best visited from this point. (We may afterwards
go on by rail from Alvastra, p. 305.) The excursion (3-4 hrs.) is
one of the linest on the lake. We take a small boat, with a rower
who acts as guide (2-3 kr.), to the Rbdgafvels Grotto, 35 ft. long
and 25-30 ft. high, being the largest of a number of caverns in the
deeply furrowed cliffs of the Omberg. — From the grotto to the
iljessan (p. 305), 1/2 hr.
The Omberg, the most interesting hill in 8. Sweden next to
the KinnekuUe (p. 297), begins a little to the N. of Hastholmen,
extends for about 6 M. along the bank of the lake towards Vad-
VADSTENA. if!. Route. 305
stciia, ami is about '2 M. in bicadtli. The side next tlic lake is
for the most part abrupt, while the E. slopes are wooded and fur-
rowed with valleys. The hill consists chiefly of gneiss and mica-
slate, but transition-limestone, clay-slate, and sandstone also occur.
The highest point is Hjessnn ('the crown'; 575 ft. above the lake,
845 ft. above the sea; view-tower). The Omberg forms the N. limit
iTi inland Sweden where the red beech (fagus sylvatica) thrives, but
in Bohus-Lan, on the Kattegat, it occurs as far north as 58° 30' N.
latitude. The beautiful forest is crown-property ('kronopark'). — We
return via *Alvastra (* Omberg' i Hotel), where we should notice
the picturesque ruin of a Cistercian monastery founded in the
12th cent, by King Sverker I., containing the burial-vaults of Kings
Sverker I., Charles VII., Sverker II., and John I. The church, de-
dicated to the Virgin, forms a Latin cross. The nave, aisles, and
choir arc still traceable. The AV. wall, like that of the choir, con-
tained a large window with rosettes and divided by mullions.
Hastholmen and Alvastra are slatious on the Narrow Gauge Railway
FUOM OdeshOg to LinkOping (81 Kil., in about 5 hrs.). — 6 Kil. Hast-
holmen; 8 Kil. Alvastra. If wo climb the Omberg from Alvastra, we may
descend via Hoje to Omberg, the next station (11 Kil. from Odeshog). —
Then follow (14 Kil.) Vd/vei'-^unda, Borghamn, and other small .stations.
3'J Kil. Vadstena. see below. 42 Kil. Fogelsta, junction for the line from
Mjiilhy to Hallsberj: (p. 308j. — 48 K'l. Hoar/. — 71 Kil. Vreta Klostcr
(p. 306); 74 Kil. Bvanninge. — 81 Kil. Linkoping (p. 308).
From Hastholmen the steamer crosses the lake once a week
(local steamer once or twice daily) to (IV2 lir.) Hjo (p. 300), on
the W. bank, and then returns to the E. bank. At Rodgafvels
Port the lake attains its greatest depth (415 ft.). We pass the
arbitrarily named rocks known as Munken or Grakarlen ('the monk',
'grey man'), rredikstolen { 'the pulpit'), and Jun^/"run('the virgin').
Farther on are seen the Vestra Viiggar and MuUskraerna; then
Borghamn, with large quarries. The steamer rounds a promontory
and reaches (3 hrs. from Hjo) —
Viidstena {^Hotel Bellevue, near the harbour), a station of the
narrow-gauge railway mentioned above. The town, of which lace
has long been the staple product, contains '23')0inhab., and owes its
origin to a convent of St. liirgilta (p. Ixiv), consecrated in 1383,
suppressed in 1595, and now a hospital. A guide appointed by the
Svenska Turist- Fiirening shows the chief sights (50 ii.). By the
harbour, near the station, is t]\e*CastleofVadstina, generally known
as the Vettersborg, built by Uustavus Vasa in the 16th cent, and an
excellent example of the feudal architecture of the period. The
interior is now a magazine. The chapel is finely vaulted. The tower
commands an extensive view. From the gardens to the \V. of the
castle we proceed, via the Kadhus Torsi (with the Radliua of 1578)
and the Stor-Torg, to the *Monasteiiy Church (the 'Klockare' lives
near ), in the N. part of the town. This church, erected in 1395-1424,
called the Blakyrkd froiu the colour of its stone and by way of
contrast to the brick Rodkyrka, is worthy of a visit. It contains a
Baedekes's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 20
oUb Route 46. BERG. Fruin Jijnkljpiiiy
monument to Duke Maynu.s, son of Gustavus Vasa, and others of
interest. The floor is paved witli tombstones. The sacristy contains
the remains of St. Bridget and her daughter fSt. Katarina in a reli-
quary. A peculiarity of the church is that the choir is at the W.
end. — In 1 hr. more the steamer touches at —
Motala (Hotel Nilson, fair; Hotel Bergslroin ; Jernvags-Holel;
baths by the harbour), a town with 3000 inhab. [a station on the
Mjolby and Hallsberg Railway, p. 308), on the Varvik, at the
efflux of the Motala from Lake Vettern. The E. Gota Canal (Oat-
yota Link) begins here, its level being regulated by a lock.
To the N. (16 Kil.) are the chalybeate springs of Medevi. to which a
steamboat plies (going on to Askersund, p. 308).
From Motala to Stockholm by the £. Gota Canal.
SiKAMiiK eight limes weel<ly in 23-27 hrs. (fare 10 kr. , with bed iii
'hytt' or staterooni 1272 l<r.). Meals, see p. 296. The 'E. Gota Line' is the
tinest part of the canal, especially the part between Berg and JVorsholm.
From Norsholm we may go on by train ; but as it is troublesome to change
conveyances, and the trains rarely suit, it is preferable to remain on board
all the way to Stockholm. In this case the traveller will be rewarded by
the scenery from Soderkoping onwards, even on a clear summer-night.
Motala, see above. (Level of the lake 290 ft.) — About 2 M.
to the E. of Motala lies the MotiilaVerks'ad, reached by steam-launch
(angslup) or by road on the N. side of the canal, passing Baron
Platen's Grave (p. 298). On the S. side of the canal area monument
to O. E. Carlsund (d. 1884), long the manager of the Motala Verk-
stad, and the Holms Bruk Factory. The Motala Verkstad, an engine
factory founded in 1822, employs 1200 hands. (Visitors usually
admitted.) The motive power is the water of the canal 37 ft. higher.
— Immediately beyond Motala Verkstad are the five Locks of
Borenshult, through which the steamer descends to Lake Boren,
50 ft. lower. As this operation takes an hour, passengers have
plenty of time to walk from Motala to Borenshult (fine scenery).
Lake Boren (240 ft.), 9 M. long, the water of which is at lirst
beautifully clear, is next traversed by the steamer. < tn the 8. bank
is the estate of Vlfasa. At the E. end (2 hrs. from Motala) the
steamer reaches Borensberg-Husbyfjol, where the finest part of the
canal-voyage begins. The Motalastrom flows on the left. From the
canal, which meanders at a considerable height, we overlook a rich
and smiling landscape, with the estates of Brunneby, Ljung, and
others. The steamer glides along at half-speed in order to avoid
damaging the banks of the canal with its wash. In 3-4 hrs. more
we reach —
Berg, an inn near the W. end of Lake Roxen (108 ft.), 17 M. long
and 6 M. broad, of which it commands a fine view. As the steamer
takes nearly 2 hrs. to descend through the locks (15 in all) to Lake
Roxen, passengers have time to visit the Vreta Klosierkxjrka., to the
S.E., which once belonged to a Cistercian convent of the 13th cen-
tury. The route skirts the canal to (7 min.) Brunneby, then follows
toSlockholm. SODERKOPING 4fi . lioule. i^Ol
tlic higliroad for I'i-IT) miii. inoic. Tlic t;tati(]ii of Vretd Klosler
(p. P>0o) lies 11A> M. to the S.W.
Wc now steam at full speed down Lakelloxen, enjoying a view of
its pretty banks. ( »ii the N. side is the ruin oiStjcrnorp, once a castle
of tlic Douglas family. In 3'/2-4 hrs. after leaving Berg we reach —
Norsholm (p. .'JOy), at the E. end of Lake Roxen, a station of
the Vestervik railway (p. 309) and the Ostra Stambana, by wMcli
latter line, train suiting, we may continue our journey to Stock-
holm. The Motala and the Gota Canals issue from Lake Roxen
here, the former descending to the N. to Lake Glan.
Beyond Norsholm we traverse the lake of Asplangcn. 3 M. long,
and reach the lork at Kldmmnn. where the canal is shut in by steep
rocks. At Vdnneherga, farther on, we pursue our course high above
the surrounding country, which wc overlook from the steamer. We
dcsceiul 9 locks and, 4 1/2 hrs. after leaving Norsholm, reach the old
town of —
Soderkoping (Stads-Hotel; 1900inhab.). Near it is St. Rag7i-
hilds KdlUi, with a hydropathic. The scenery improves. Above the
canal, on the N. side, rises the Ramunder shall.
Beyond Soderkoping two more locks; then (^3M.) the last lock,
the 74th, at Mem, on Sldthaken, a long and narrow bay of the Bal-
tic. To the right, farther on, we observe the Stegeborg, once a
royal castle; then, on the left, the residence of OoUenvik. The
steamer soon reaches the open Baltic.
Steering partly througli the monotonous 'skJirgard' or island
belt, partly \\\ the open sea, wc pass the broad mouth of lie bay
of Briiviken (see Novrkiiping, p. 310), and reach (5 hrs. from Soder-
kopiiis:) the commercial town of Oxelosund, the termiutis of the
railway mentioned in R. 54. Wc then, after traversing the Him-
merfj'irden, pass the island of .Morkon with the manor of Hornings-
liolin, and arrive, in 5'/j-^' hrs. more, at Sodertelge (p. 311). —
The steamer next passes through the Sodertelge Canal (p. 312),
connectijig the l?altic with Lake Mdlaren, on which we steam
rapidly to ('2-3 hrs.) Stockholm, the approach to which is strikingly
picturesque. The boat lies to at the Riddarholm.
47. From Nassjo to Stockholm.
350 Kil. .SiJDKA Stambana U\ Katrineholm; Vestra Stambana tn Stock-
holm. Kxpress in 8'/.., fast train in 9i/jl2 hrs. (fares 29 kr. 75"., 21 ki-.,
14 kr.}. Ordinary trains not all through-trains (IS kr. 40, 12 kr. 25 ().).
Xdssjd, sec p. 279. — The scenery as far as Boxholm retains
the characteristics of Smaland. Between Gripenberg and Sommen
lies Holaveden, a hilly and wooded district separating Smaland from
Ostcrgotland. The fertile Plain of Vadstena, around Skeninge,
Vadstena , and Linkoping , contains the oldest towns in Sweden,
many chateaux, and large factories.
20*
308 Route 47. LINKOl'lNci. From Missji,
12 Kil. Solberga; 18 Kil. Flisby ; 24 Kil. Aneby, on the lake
of that name. The train follows the course of the Svarta, which
forms a series of lakes.
36 Kil. Frinnoryd, on Lake Ralangen (530ft.), with its 'float-
ing island', visible only in dry summers. 42 Kil. Gripenherij^ with
the large estate of that name; farther to the S. lies Traneryd.
52 Kil. Tranas ; 64 Kil. Sommen, on Lake Sommen (480 ft.), on
which a steamer plies. ■ — The train crosses the Svarta, which here
forms several falls, the boundary between Smaland and Ostergot-
land. Near Jlockebro we skirt the N. bay of the Sommen.
73 Ki\. Boxholm, with iron-works. ISHW. Stralsn,di>. The train
descends. — 89 Kil. Mjolby (*Inn, at the station), with large mills.
Fkom Mjolby via IIallsberg to Orebro, 121 Kil., railway in 3V4-6 hrs.
(fares 7 kr. 70, 4 kr. 85 6.1. - 9 Kil. Skeninge (S tads-Hotel), with 140U inhaVi.,
iince an imporlant place; 16 Kil. Fogelsta, junction for the narrow-gauge
line from Odeshog to Linkoping (see p. 30.5). — 27 Kil. Moiala, whence
a short branch-line leads to Motnla Verkstad (p. 306); 54 Kil. GodegSrd.
From (79 Kil.) Lerhiick a branch-line runs in 50 min. to (14 Kil.) Askersund
(Stad.skallaren), a town of 1500 inhab. on Lake Vettern (steamer to Motabi.
p. 306). — 96 Kil. HaUsberg, a station on the Vestra Stambana (p. 301). —
J03 Ki). Kiihua ; 112 Kil. Mosas on the Mosjii^ with an old church ; 116 Kil.
Adolf sberg , with a hydropathic. — 121 Kil. Orebro (p. 369). — The line
runs on past Ervalla to Friivi, where it joins the line to Krylbo (p. 374).
95 Kil. Sya; 99 Kil. Mantorp. Near (109 Kil.) Bankeberg is
the agricultural school of Haddorp. Fertile country, dotted witli
churches.
121 Kil. Linkoping. — Hotels. 'Stora Hotel, Stor-Torget, R. lV-.'-3,
D. 2kr. ; Grand Hotel, St. Lars-Gatan ; Jeksvags-Hotel, Central Hotel.
at the station.
Carriages at Johansen's. To the locks of Berg and the Vreta Convent
(p. 306), 12 Kil.
Steamboat to Siiderkoping and Stockholm, once a week.
Linkoping, the capital of Ostergotland, with 13,300 inhab.,
residence of the bishop, lies on the W. bank of the Stanga, which
flows out of Lake Roxen (p. 306) and is connected with the S. lakes
by means of the Kinda Canal (p. 309). In 1598 the Rom. Cath.
Sigismund was defeated by the Prot. Duke Charles at the Stange-
Bro, and his adherents were afterwards executed at Linkoping in
1600 (the 'Linkoping Blood Bath').
We follow the avenue straight on from the station, then turn
to the left by St. Lars-Gatan, which leads to the square of the
same name, with the St. Lars- Kyrka. This church contains several
paintings by Per Horberg (1746-1816), an original self-taught artist
of the peasant-class. Taking Borgmastare-Gatan to the right, we
cross the Stor-Torg, whence Domkyrko-Gatan leads straight to the
cathedral.
The *DoMKYRKA, begun in 1150 and completed at the end of
the 15th cent., is Romanesque in its oldest parts (such as the
beautiful S. portal), and Gothic in later parts, while the choir is
late-Gothic. In 1871-82 the church was judiciously restored by
to Stockholm. NORSIIOLM. 47. Route. 309
Zettervall. The great W. tower, 346 ft. liigli, was not conipletoil
till 1886, Next to the cathedral of Upsala , this is the longest
church in Sweden (320 ft.); and it is the finest stone church in
the country. The vaulting is borne by ten handsome pillars
on each side. The old Altar-piece, by lleemskerck (d. 1574), a
Dutch master, purchased by John II. in 1681 for 1200 measures
(7600 cubic ft.) of wheat, is now on the S. wall. Its former place
is occupied by a colossal figure of Christ, surrounded by Faith,
Hope, and Charity, in plaster, designed by Bystrom. Reliefs of
the 14th cent, (life of Christ), formerly in the tympanum of the S.
portal, are now built into the wall behind the altar. The marble
sarcophagus and recumbent figure of Bishop Teserus (d. 1678) are
modern. The verger ('Vaktmastare') lives at Biskops - Gatan 45,
opposite the N.E. portal. — Near the Domkyrka, at the head of a
street leading to the W. from the Stor-Torg, is a circle of stones
marking the sceae of the 'blood-bath' (see p. 308).
in Kungstriidgarden, the gardens to the W. of the cathedral,
rises the Castle, built before 1600 and lately restored, now tlie
residence of the 'Laudshiifding'.
To the 8. of the cathedral-tower is the Hoyre AUmiinna Laroverlc,
or Urammar School ; and to the N. of the tower is the liishop's
Residence, adjoined on the left by the Library, which contains a
valuable collection of books, MSS., coins, and antiquities (Mon.
and Thurs., 11-12). — Pleasant walks in the park of Tradgards-
fiWeningen (with belvedere.), to the S.W. of the town, reached from
the Domkyrka via Apothekara-Gatan, which skirts the E. side of
the cathedral square. At No. 24 in Drottniiig-Gatan, which inter-
sects Apothekara-Gatan at the entrance to the park, is the F.nst
Gotland Museun^.
The Kinda Canal (steamer live times a week), TO Kil. in lengtli,
completed in 1871, connects Linliiiping vvilh several Liijlier lying lakes
to the S. : Eflangen (185 ft. above the sea), (in the N. bank uf which lies
the large estate (if 5/«re/or«; Henyen ('Xlb i\^.), with the estates (if <St/7)i/ and
r,rokind ; then Jefnlwiden CXO H.);\^a\\y Asuiideii (280 ft.), cunnected with
the last by the Jiim/orsstrom. The last steamboat-station is Horn, on the
Asund. These lakes all form liasins of the Slaiiya , and the ascent is
eflected by fifteen locks. Scenery pleasing the whole way.
Beyond Linkiiping the train crosses the Stanga by a bridge
200 yds. long. A large monument here commemorates the battle
mentioned at p. 308. Fertile country, with several churches.
132 Kil. Linghem ; 139 Kil. Gistad. We cross the Glita Canal
(p. 298) by a curious swiivg-bridge (pleasant view of Lake Roxen).
146 Kil. Kovsholm. (Hotel Glita), junction of two branch-rail-
ways, and also a station of the canal-steamers (see p. 306).
Kkom Noksuol.m to Vksteiivik, 118 Kil., railway in f) hrs. (fares 8 kr.
85, 5 kr. 45 ij.). Stations of little interest. 17 Kil. UOfvevthy; 38 Kil.
Bertho, with^aii impoitant coiipcr-mine, 1350ft. iu depth.
^'l Kil. Atvidaberg (Hotel), with a modern church and copper-mines
(to the W.). 'Um Mi<nnvrs<jruj'va Cgrandmolher's mine') is 13G5 ft. deep.
310 Roitte 47. NORRKOPING. From Nassj!)
We next traverse the pretty rtiatrict of TJusl. 51 Kil. Foisaslroin ;
58 Kil. Falevum (fine view from the station); 67 Kil. Nelliammar; 71 Kil.
fStorsjS (fine view of the lake of that naaie); 82 Ki). Ofverum, with the
foundry of an English company.
118 Kil. Vestervik (Stadskus; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. J. C. Teiiger ;
Lloyd's agent, Ah'. E. R. Fo(jelmcirck), an old town with 7000 inhab., at the
entrance to the Qamlebi/vik, with large ship-building yards, wa.s repeatedly
destroyed during the wars between the Danes and Swedes. Near the town
is the ruined castle of Stiikeholm. — Vestervik is about GO Engl. M. from
Wisby on the island of Gotland (steamer).
From Vestervik via Ankavsvum to Ilultsfred (70 Kil.), see p. 232.
From Korsiiolm via Palsbod.4 to Orebro, 116 Kil., narrow-gauge
railway in 5^/4 hrs. (fares 7 kr. 80, 5 kr. 20 6.). Intermediate stations
unimportant. — 4 Kil. Kimitad (see bebiw). — The train skirts the W.
bank of Lake fUan to (2/ Kil.) Finspong , with a cannon-foundry and a
large chateau and park. — 79 Kil. Svcnnevad , at the W. end of Lakit
Sottern. — 85 Kil. lalsboda, the junction ot the Vcstra Stauibana (p. 801). —
llGKil. 07vhro (Sodra Station; see p. 369)
The Stambaiia and the Palsboda railway run side by side along
the H bank of the Motalastrcim to (149 Kil.) Kimstad. The former
then bends to the N.E. atid at (154 Kil.) Okna reaches l.akt Ulan
(70 ft.), which it skirts to (159 Kil.) Eksund. Here it crosses the
Motiilaslrom, the outlet of Lake Vettern (p. 304). 162 Kil. Fiskeby.
108 Kil. Norrkoping. — Hotels. Standard Hotel, a large now
iirst-class establishment Karb.Tohans-Torget, close to the station, with elec-
tric light, R. from 2Va, , D. 2, S. ('Sexor') 21/2 kr. ; Stora Hotel, Karl-
.Tohans-Torget; Central Hotel, near the rail, station, with cafe' and
g.irden, R. 1^/4-5, B. 8/4, D. (1-4 p.m.) l'/2-2kr.; Bellevue, Skeppsbron.
Pleasure Resort, Stromsliol)nei).i with restaurant (frequent concerts).
British Vice-Consul, Mr. 0. F. A. Enhoriiing.
Norrkoping, a busy trading and manufacturing town with 41 ,000
inhab., owes its importance to its situation at the head of the long
Bravik, into which falls the Motaldstrtim, and to the water-power
afforded by the river, which flows through the whole town and
drives numerous factories (cloth, yarn, cotton, etc.). Though of
ancient origin, the town has a wholly modern appearance owing to
the numerous conflagrations by which it has been visited.
Near the station, in the N. part of the town, lies the Karl-
JoHANS-Tor.a, where the post-oflice, the town-hall, and the theatre
are situated. It is adorned with a Statue of Charles XIV. John
(Bernadotte), by Schwanthaler, erected in 184C. — On a height to
the W. rises the Gothic Norra- Kryka , or Wattens-Kyrka, finished
in 1892 and affording a view of Kolmarden (see p. 311).
Following the tramway-lines to the S. from the Karl-Johans-
Torg, we cross the Ofkar-Fredrtks-Bro, spanning the Motalastrom
in three arches and commanding a view of the island of Stroms-
liolm (see above) on the left. We then follow Drottning-Gatan,
the main street of the town, traversing the Tyska-Torg, and taking
Kniippingsborg-Gatan, the fourth turning on the left, reach an open
space in which stands the St. Olalkyrka, an ancient foundation
recently restored. The street goes on to the right (W.) to the river:
we have a fine view of tlie rapids from the iron bridge. \\\-
to Stockholm. SODERTELGE. 47. Route, oil
ascend the left bank of the stream and follow Dals-Gataii to the
Sydvestra Promenade, in ■which are several schools and barracks.
On a hill to the W. arc the hospitals. — We may take the tramway
back to the station.
Krorn Norrkciping Nai:eo\v Gauge Railwais run to (15 Kil.) Suckr-
koiing (p. 307) and to the E. tx (53 Kil.) Arkosund, a sea-batliing place,
opposite the island of Arkii.
The Steamboat to Stockhohn will be preferred by many to the train.
The vessels (daily) usually ply at night, atTording a beautiful view of Lake
Miilaren on arriving. In the reverse direction thi.? route is recommended
to travellers intending to take the Gcita Canal route from Norsliolm to
Lake Vettern (p. 303).
Beyond Norrkoping and (^176 Kil.) Aby the train traverses a
wooded plateau called Kolmarden , the once robber-infested fron-
tier-region between Sodermanland and Ostergotland. Its length
from E. to W. is about 60 M., its breadth from N. to S. 25 M. ; the
highest point (555 ft.) lies to the W. of Aby. The train passes
through a tunnel and then ascends gradually to (179 Kil.) Orafvers-
fors. Farther on it crosses the bays of Lake Niicken by means of
embankments. Another tunnel. 191 Kil. Simonstorp (inn). On the
right lies the lake of FUiten {200 ft.). 205 Kil. Stranysjo. Scenery
uninteresting.
21GKil. Eatrinelioliu (Jemvags-Holel, with restaurant), junc-
tion of the Sodra and the Vestra Stambana (p. 301). Near it are
the estates of Stora Djuld and KLdstorp, with marble -polishing
works, specimens from which are exhibited at Katrineholm.
The train next traverses the Sodermanland , with its great
forests and its numerous lakes, which have given rise to the saying
that 'when the Creator separated the dry land from the water, he
overlooked Sodermanland'. 22G Kil. Valla. We pass many chat-
eaux of the Swedish aristocracy. 239 Kil. Flen, near the chateau of
Stenhammar famed in song, on Lake Valdernaren (or Vammeln^,
.junction for P^skilstuna and Nykoping (see p. 371). — 254 Kil.
Spurrehobn, with the estate of that name. The mansion contains
collections of paintings and coins and an extensive library. —
266 Kil. Stjernhof; 275 Kil. Bjornlunda. The scenery beyond this
point is particularly line. Beyond (284 Kil.) Gnesta (*i{ail. Kestau-
rant) we pass the picturesque Frustuna.y<j and Lake Sillen. 291 Kil.
Mi'ilnho; 302 Kil. Jerna.
3 14 Kil. Saltskog, from which a short branch-line runs to (1 Kil.)
the town of Sodevtelge (Stads- Hotel), finely situated at the S. end
of a bay of Lake Mdiaren , with 6000 inhab., an old church, a
hydropathic, and many villas of wealthy Stockholmers. Steamer to
Stockholm several times daily.
From Saltskog a l)ranch-railway runs to the W.. on the S. side of
Lake Malaren, to (^8 Kil. ; 374 lirs.) Eskilstuna (lares 4 kr. 95, 3 kr. 40 6.;
from Stockholm in 4Vj hrs., fares 6 kr. HO, 4 kr. 60 6.). Intermediate sta-
tions: 3") Kil. Liujyesia, Jhf. junction of a brunch to (4 Kil.) Marief red- Grips-
holm (p. Sr)2); 40 Kil. Akers Htijckeiruk (large guu-foundry), whence a line
runs to (15 Kil.) Utremjniii (p. 354). — Eskilstuna, see p. 370.
P>12 noute 48. CHARLOTTENBERG.
From Suik'rtflge a steamboat plies several times ilaily via the Soder-
telge Canal to Trosu, a small town on the Baltic, crossing the JdrnafjiinJ,
a bay on which stands the olil ch;Tte;iu of Tnllgarn, a summer-residence
of the crown-prince of Sweden.
The train crosses the Sodertelge Canal by a handsome swing
bridge. This canal connects the Malar Lake with the Jarnafjard
(see above), thus saving vessels a long round. — 327 Kil. Tumba,
with the large paper-manufactory of the Bank of Sweden. 336 Kil.
Huddinge; 342 Kil. Elfsjo (branch-line to Sywhliamm, seep. 350;
55 Kil., in l^/4-2'/2 lirs.J, beyond which is a tunnel; 340 Kil.
Liljeholmen, with the railway-workshops and many factories.
The train crosses the Arstavik by means of an embankment
(300 yds.) ; to the left is the Miliar, with the Keimemholm and Lang-
holm; to the right is the sugar-manufactory of Tanto. We then
pass under Sodermalm, through a tunnel 458 yds. long, to the bank
of the Malar. The train crosses a bay of the lake, and the island on
which the city lies, by a bridge (p. 320), and enters the handsome
('enlral Station oi Stockholm [t^. 314 ; 350 Kil. from Niissjo, 610 Kil.
from Malmii, 458 Kil. from Gotenburg).
48. From (Christiania and) Charlottenberg to Laxa
(and Stockholm) ,
Railway from Christiania to Stockholm , 575 Kil., or 357 Engl. M.
(by Norwegian railway to Charlottenberg, by Swedish railway thence to
Stockh(jlm)-, two through-trains daily in 17'/2 and 27 hrs. respectively (fares
43 kr. 5, 33 kr. 50, 22 kr. 40 ci.). A place in a sleeping-carriage ('sofvagn')
costs 5 kr. (1st class) or 3 kr. (2nd class) extra.
The railway from Charlottenberg to Laxa (Nordveslra Slanibana) tra-
verses the Vermland , a pr(ivince where lakes and forests abound, and
rich in iron and other ores. This region has recently been opened up
by a network of railways and canals. The Vermland is famous as the
birthplace of Tegner and Geijev., and its praises have been sung by
Fryxell in his beautiful VermXandsvisa. The traveller who wishes to see
some of its attractions should make an excursion from Kil to Fnjlslad
and the Fryken Lakes (see p. 313). Another digression may be made from
Christinehamn to Filipstad (p. 372).
From Christiania to (143 Kil.) Charlottenberg, see R. 12.
At Charlottenberg ('''Bail. Restaurant, D. 1 1/2 kr.; Bertha Lyden's
Jernvags- Hotel), the first Swedish station, passengers to or from
Stockholm change carriages. Luggage entering Sweden undergoes a
custom-house examination here; in the reverse direction it is
examined at Christiania.
Beyond Charlottenberg the train passes the By-Sjo (270 ft.)
on the right, and stops at (14 Kil.) Amot on the Flagan-Sjo. Ex-
tensive view. Pretty scenery. 25 Kil. Ottehol.
34 Kil. Avwika. (Stads-Hotel , 3 min. from the station; *Rail.
Restaurant), with 2500 inhab., is prettily situated on the Olafs-
fjord, here called the Elgafjord, which is connected with Lake
Venern by the Seffle Canal. (Steamer to Venersborg once weekly,
KARLSTAD. 48. lioute. 313
also several others. ) This long stretch of water fills the ancient
bed of the Glommen, which once fell into Lake Venern, but now
turns to the W. at Kongsvinger (comp. p. 79). During the melting
of the snow part of the water of the Glommen still finds its way
into its old channel. Adjacent is ArvikaHelsobrunn ('health spring').
Beyond (49 Kil.) Edane we cross the large and picturesque
VermeUn-Sfo (180 ft.) by a viaduct, 710 yds. long, and pass
through a tunnel of 900 yds. Impressive forest-scenery. 56 Kil.
Brunsberg ; 66 Kil. Boda; 77 Kil. Fageras. The train crosses the
Nors-Elf, the discharge of the Fryken Lakes, by an iron bridge
198 yds. long and 63 ft. high , resting on iron pillars and massive
granite foundations, securely laid in soft alluvial soil. Beyond the
bridge the train reaches —
82 Kil. Kil (352 ft.; Jemodgs-Hotel), junction of the Gotenburg
and Falun railway (R. 55), and of a short branch-line to Frykstn
(9 min."), at the 8. end of the Nedre Fryken Lake (195 ft.").
From Fryksta or Frykstad a pleasant excursion may be taken to the
three 'Fryken Lakes (Nedre , Mellan , and Ofvi'e Fryken). Steamboat
every week-day, in connection with the train from Kil, to Torsby - Srvk,
at the N. end of the hisjhest of the lakes, in 5hrs., returning next day. —
The Fryksdal, a valley 80-90 Kil. long, is highly spoken of, but the voyage
to Torsby and back is rather fatiguing. It is ])referable to land at Ilotl-
neros Briik between the central and the upper lake, visit the Full of the.
Roltna-Elf, and go to Stinne (hotel), another pretty place, where Anders
Fryxell (d. 1881 at Stockholm), the author of an important history of
Sweden and of the poem 'Vermlandsvisa', was once pastor. — Many large
iron-works, some of which belong to the Edsvalla Bruks lioUig. — The
Ufvre or Norra Fryken is grander than the lower lakes.
95 Kil. Skare. Then —
102 Kil. Karlstad (Stads-Hotel, R. from l'/., kr. ; Hotel hung
Karl; Rail. Kestaurant), the capital of Vermland, a busy town of
12,250 inhab., entirely rebuilt after a fire in 1865. It is pictur-
esquely situated on the Tinguallab, at the influx into Lake Venern
of the Klar-FIf. which descends from the Norwegian Mts. Broad
streets, planted with trees; handsome buildings and pleasant pro-
menades. Steamboats to Venersborg and Lidkiiping (p.296), etc.
The train now skirts the N. bank of the vast Lake Venern
(p. 296), of which, however, little is seen, and passes over si.\
long bridges and several embankments, which proved very costlv.
1 13 Kil. Skattkarr; 125 Kil. Vd^e; 134 Kil. Olme.
142 Kil. (88 M.) Christinehamn (Stora Hotel; Jernvdgs-Hotel),
a busy trading town, with 6300 inhab., lies on both banks of the
Svarta, at the influx of that river into the Varnumsvik, a bay of
Lake Venern. Steamers to Venersborg and Lidkoping (p. 296), and
several others. Railway to Mora, see p. 376.
Beyond ( 154 Kil.) Bjomeborg the railway skirts Lake Vismen.
165 Kil. KarUkoga , whence a mitieral-line runs N. to Kortfors
(with a branch toGrytthyttehed, p. 372), \ora, and Ervalla (p. 369),
and S. (from Karlskoga) to llullapang and Otterbdcken on Lake
\ i'i\ern. 168 Kil. Dcyerfnrs , on Lake Ml'tckeln (295 ft.), from
314 Route 49. STOCKHOLM. Practical
which another branch-line runs N. to Vikersvik and Striberg. Be-
tween these lines lies (180 Kll.) Svitrtu. 191 Kil. Ilusse.lfnrs.
The train now passes the mineral baths of Porln Helsobrunn on
the left and reaches (203 Kil.) Laxa (p. 301). From Laxa to
Stockholm.^ see pp. 301 and 312.
49. Stockholm.v
Arrival. Travellers arriving at Stockhnlm by railvyay (except the few
who travel by the Stockholm, Rimbo, and Norrtelje line, or the Stock-
holm and Djursholm line, p. 347) alight at the Central Station {Central
Bangurden; PI. C, 5, 6), situated in the N. quarter, about 7 minutes' walk
friim the Norrbro (p. 320). OmniOiises from the principal hotels meet each
train (fare 3/4-! kr.). Cab with one horse f(jr 1-2 pers. 1 kr. 25 ii., 3-4 pers.
1 kr. 50 o. ; each trunk 20 o., for three or more 50 o. (at night, 11-6 rrdcjck,
one fare and a half). Porter ('stad.sbud'), for each package to or from cab
or omnibus 10 o. ; to one of the hotels 25-30 6. An Interpreter, recognisable
by his official cap, meets the trains and gives information to strangers
(no fee). — Those who arrive by the lake-route from Gotenburg, or by a
coasting steamer from the S., land at the Riddarholm Quay (PI. D, 5),
on the W. side of the Riddarholm ; the usual landing-place for travellers
from the N. or E. is the Skeppsbeo (PI. E, F, 4, 5) or Blasiehoi.ms-Hamn
(PI. E, F, 4). Cab-fare as above; no hotel-omnibuses on the quays. For
the steamers 'norrrut', 'soderrut', 'osterrut', 'vesterruf, 'Ofita Kanal', '3I;i-
laven', etc., see the 'Sverlges Kommunikationer\
Hotels (English spoken at all firstclass and many second-class hotel.s).
"Grand-Hotel (PI. gh ; E, F, 5), Sodra Blasieholms-Hamnen, with a line
view of the Palace and the busy quays and harbour, a comfortable and
well-managed house ranking with the best hotels of Europe, with reading-
room, American bar, and catV, R. from 3, B. 1, dej. (11-3) 2'/2, !>■ (4 0-
7.30) 31/2 (41/2 if no wine be ordered), S. 2V2, omn. 1 kr. — -Hotel Ky .-
BERG (PI. r; I), E, 6), Gustaf-Adolfs-Torget, facing the Norrbro, w il-
managed, with Laths and cafe-restaurant, R. from 2'/2, B. 1, doj. 2, D. 3,
S. 21/2, omn. 1 kr. ; 'Continental (PI. c; C, 5), Vasa-Gatan 22, opposite
the central station, with baths and restaurant, R. from 3, B. ^/i, I).
2'/2-3'/2' kr. — "Belfkage (PI. 6; D, 6), Vasa-Gatan 8, a smaller establishment,
abso with hot-air heating and baths, R. from 2, B. 3/4, d^j. (till noon)
11/4-2, D. (4.30-5.30) 21/2, S. (after 9 p.m.) IV4-2 , omn. 1 kr. — The
following supplv rooms, breakfast, and cold meals : Kung Karl (PI. k ; D,5),
at the S. end of the Brunkebergs-Torg, R. from 2, B. I'/i, dtj. i'/o kr. ;
Horn, Malmtorgs-Gatan 6 (PI. D, 5, 6), R. from 21/2 kr., well spoken of;
Hotel 'de SuJide (PI. s; D, 5), Drotlning-Gatan 43, R. from 2V2 kr., B.
60 ci.-l kr. ; Hot. Drott, Drottning-Gatan 35, R. from 2, B. 60 d , cold meat
Ikr. ; Stora EosENBAD (PI. ro,- D, 6), Klara Sddra Kyrkoga'an 4, near the
Rodbod-Torg, R. from 2, B. 1, dej. I1/2 kr., with bath3:„HoT. Ntm.\n,
Regerings-Gatan 13. — In the Staden or old town (p. 320): 'Ostergotland
(PI. G ; E, 6), Salviigrand 3, near the Mynt-Torg, an old-established Swedish
house with restaurant, R. 2-6 kr. ; Hot. Frankfurt, Skeppsbron 16. — Pen-
sions: Pens. Continentals, Vasa-Gatan 44, pens. 5-7 kr. ; Froken Andeks-
SON, Upplands-Gatan 3, near the Central Station, pens. (D. extra) 30-60 kr.
per month; Fru A. Dehn, Birger-Jarls Gatan 12, pens. 5-7 kr. ; H. Klara
Larsson, same street Xo. 23; P. Kruse, Klarabergs-Gatan 52; E. Hijttling,
Karla-Planen 8, R. from 2, pens. 5 kr. (for a month or more), English.
Hestaurants (dej. 9-1, dinner 2-7, S. after 3 o'cl. ; closed on Sun., 11-1
and 6-7). "Grand-Hdlel (excellent French cuisine) and "Rydberg (see ahove);
' Opera-Kallaren, in the E. wing of the Opera House (PI. 40), D. (2-5 p.m.)
2-3 kr. ; "Bestaurant du Nord, K\ings-Tradgards-Gatan, liy the Dramatiska
For the use of Gatan, see footnote at p. 2.
Notes. STOCKHOLM. 49. Rou7e. 315
Teater, with cafi'; ilHvopoU, Kovrmalms-Tor^, at tbc oornei- of Ilamn-
Gafan, near the Berzelii Park, much frequented, D. (2-7 p.m.) 2 kr. ; Cafi!-
Reitauraiit Anglais, Stui-e-1'lanen (X.side; P1.E,4); Hamh>irgerBors^3a.V.(Aii.-
Gatan G (PI. E, 5), near the Jakobskyrka; Hot. OsiergiJtland (p. 314), noted
lor its Swedish cuisine and especially frequented for luncheon ; Restaurant
du Slid, Maria-Hissen (p. 343); Pelikan Kallaren, Brunnsbacken 4, opposite
the Katarina-Hissen (p. 343). — Jn the Djurgavd (p. 344): "llasselbacken
(music in the afternoon; D. 3kr.), with garden where visitors may dine
in the open air. — Restaurants at the SuUsjobad, see p. 350.
Cafes (Schioeilzerier : seldom open before 9 a.m.) at the ''Gvund- Hdtd
(p. 314), the Hot. Rydherg (p. 314), and the above-named restaurants.
Also, "Opera Cafe, Karl den Tolftes Torg, in the E. wing of the Opera
House, with line view-terrace (p. 327; wraps provided on cool eveninais,
10 6.); BUiHcli's Cufi (PI. 19; E, 5), in the Kungstriidgard (music in the
evening); Cafi Victoria, in the KungstriidgSrd; "Bevii^s Salonger. by the
Berzelii Park (p. 328; music in the evening) ; Stromparlerre, see p. 320 (music
in the evening). The society at the evening concerts is often rather mixed.
At most of the restaurants and cafes visitors deposit their hats, over-
coats, and umbrellas in a room provided for the purpose. The attendants
(fee 10 o.) are wonderfully quick in recognising visitors and in restoring
their belongings.
Beer. "Anton. Jakobs-Gatan 19; Himmelsleiter, Jakobs-Gatan 18; Luioen-
briiit, Sture-Gatan 3; Restaurant <(■ Cafi du Bazar, at the Norrbro, above
the Strompartcrre (PI. K, 6); Franziskaner , Skeppsbron (PI. F, 6). — Italian
Wine Koom; Tavenia degli Artisti. Norrmalms-Torg 4 (E. side; PI. E, 4, 5).
Confectioners (Conditorier. generally with Dam- Cafi, or ladies' cafe').
IkUduclier, Droltning Gatan 25 and Xorrlands-Gatan 24, to the N. of the
Kungstriidgiird ; Feitli, Drottning-Gatan 40; Berg, Kegerings-Gatan 14 and
Sture-Gatan 14; Tliurnblaci, Sture-lManen 4 ; ia;jdW«M«, Storkyrkobrinken 9,
in the old l<iwn (Staden).
Cabs, all on the 'ta.xameter" system: 1-2 pers. per 800 metres ('/■j M.)
fjOo., each 500 metres more 10 ij. Small parcels free; trunk 20 6., for more
than two 50 o. The drivers are bound to show the tarifl" on demand. —
Cab Stands near the Post Office, in the IJrunkebergs-Torg, on the .Skepps-
bro, in the .Stor-Torg, the Guslaf-Adolfs-Torg , the Norrmalms-Torg, etc.
Tramways (Uparvagnar). In the smaller ears passengers deposit their
fares in a box. The drivers will change sums not exceeding 1 kr. at the
small window marked 'Vexling'. The name-boards and lamps of the
Ring Line cars are green, on other lines red. The cars run every 5-10
minutes. The fare !■; almost uniformly 10 (i., including transfer from
the Ring Line to any one of the others, for which we demand an 'iifvev-
gSngs-biljet' on paying.
1. King Li.ne. From Slussen (PI. E, F, 8) bv the Skeppsbro to the
Norrhro (PI. i: . U) , then (to the E.) along the 'Kungstradg[ird vi;l the
Norrmulms-Torg (I'l. E, 4, 5; change carriages for the Djurgard) and
Birger-Jarls- Gatan to the Sture-Plan (PI. E, 4; whence a branch diverges
to the right through Sture Gatan to Carlaviigen, PI. F, G, 3), then to the
Roslags- Torg (P). 1), 3) and vi;i Liintmarkare Clutan (in the reverse direction,
via {<tora Badstuga Gatan; change for the Vasa line), Adolf - Fredriks-
Kidra-Kyrko- Gatan, Utora Barnhus- Gatan, Vasa-Qalan. and across the
Vasa-Bro back toi Slitssen.
2. D.)UKGARDBN Link. From the Norrmalms-Torg (PI. E, 4, 5) to the
J>jurgard (terminus opposite Hasselbacken in the Allmdnna - Grand ;
Pi. 11. 1,7, 6).
3. OsTEiijiALM Line. Foiu the Sture-Plan (PI, E, 4), through Sture-
Oatan and Carlavjigen to llie Carla-Plan (VI. G, 3), and then by Narvaviigen
to the .Vorrmalms-Torg (PI. E, 4, 5).
**4. The KvKKauAKi) Line runs from Tegnirs Oatan (PI. C, 3) througl
Stora Badstuga Gntan and Nortulls-Gatau (PI. A, B, I, 2); and then (ever
316 iToute 49.
STOCKHOLM.
Practical
Key to the Flan of
Akademier (Academies):
1. Akad. fijr de fria knnsterna
(Academy of Arts) . . . . D, 6
2. Landtbruks Akademi (Agri-
cultural AcadeuiyJ .... D, 5
3. Musikaliska Akademi (Aca-
demy of Music) F, 5
5. Archives (Riks-Arkivet) . . D, 7
6. Badinriittningar (Baths)
B, 3; U, 6; F, 6
Banegardar (Railway - Sta-
tions) . . . C, 5, 6; 1), 1; E, 9
Banker (Banks) :
7. Riksbanken (National Bank) F, 7
3. SkandinaviskaKredit-Aktie-
bolag (Scandinavian Joint
Stuck Bank) E, 7
9. Stockholms Enskilda Ban-
ken (Private Bank). . . . E, 7
4. Stockhiilms Intecknings Ga-
ranti Aktiebolag D, G
1(1. Barnbiirdshuset (Lyin£-in
Hospital) . .B, 3; A, G-, D, 10
Beri^sskolan (Minini; School),
Drottning-Oatan B, 3
Biblioteket, Riks- (National
Library) E; 3
Bildstoder (Monuments) :
Berzelius (Berzelii Park) . E, 5
Birger Jarl D, 7
Charles XII E, 5
Charles XIII E, 5
Charles XIV. John .... E, 8
Ericsson, John F, 5
Ericason, Nils C, 6
Gustavus Adolphus . . . . E, 6
Gustavus III E, F, 6
Gustavus Vasa I*) '7
Linnseus E, 3
Scheele . . . E, 3
11. Biologiska Museum .... 1,6
12. Biirsen (Exchange) E, 7
13. Northern Museum .... C, 4
, New Building . . . H, 5
14. Flottans Fiirradshus (Marine
Arsenal) G, 7
15. Frimurarelogen (Freema-
son.s'' Lodge) F, 5
IG. Wallinska Skolan (Gram-
mar School) D, 7
17. Gymnastiska Institutet . . D, 5
Hasselbacken I, 6
18. Hofriitt, Kongl. Svea (Court
of Appeal) D, 7
'1. Konstforeningen (Art Uni<]n) E, 5
Kyvkor (Churches) :
(^dolf Fredriks kyrkan . C, 3, 4
^lasiehohus kyrkan .... F, 5
•jngelska kyrkan (Engll.sh
Ohurch) . " B, 4
23.
24.
29.
38.
39.
48.
Stockholm.
Finska kyrkan (Finnish
Church) E, 7
Gustaf Adolfs kyrkan . H, 1, 3
Hedvig Eleonora kyrkan . F, 4
Jakobs kyrkan E, 5
Johannis kyrkan D, 3
ICarl Johans kyrkan .... G, 6
Katarina kyrkan F, 9
Katolska kyrkan (Rom.
Cath. Church) . . . D, 5; C, 1
Klai-a kyrkan D, 5
Maria kyrkan E, 8, 9
Riddarholms kyrkan . . . D, 7
Ryska kyrkan (Russian
Church) D, 1
Samuelskapellet E, 2
Storkyrkan E, 7
Tyska kyrkan (German
Church) E, 7
Ulrika Eleonuras kyrkan . B, G
Mosebacken F, 8
Myntet, Kongl. (Royal Mint) B, 6
National Museum F, U
Norrtull A, 1
()bservatory B, 3
Ofverstathallarehuset
(Governor's House) . . . E, 6, 7
Palats, Arfprinsens . . . . D, G
Poliskammaren (Police
Oflice) D, 6
Postwerket (Post Oflice) . . D, 6
Radhuset (Town Hall). . D, 6, 7
Riddarhuset D, 7
Riksdagshuset (House of
Parliament) D, 7
Siillskapet (a club) .... E, 5
Serafimer Lasarettet
(Hospital! B, C, 6
Skansen Ij 5, G
Slojdskolan (Industrial
School) D, 5
Slottet, Kongl. (Royal Palace) R, G
Synagogan (Synagogue) . . E, 5
Teatrar (Theatres):
Kongl. Teatern E, 5, G
Kongl. Bramatiska Teatern E, 5
Svenska Teatern F, 5
Djurgards Teatern . . . I, 5, 6
Vasa Teateru t', 4, 5
Sodra Teaterni F, 8
Tekniska Skoljin, see Slojd-
skolan . . . ; ^
Tekniska Hogskolan. ... B, 3
Telegrafen . '. E, F, 6
University (Stockholms
Hogskolan) . ' C, 5
Vanadislundeii tf, 1
Vetenskaps AJvademieu
(Academy of Science) . C, 3,4
Votfs. STOCKHOLM. JO. limde. H17
'/4 lir. ; 5 o. extra) to the t-ntrance of the paik (if Ilaija (p. 34S) ami the
Nya Kyrkognrden (p. 3iS).
5. Vasa Link (every 10 min.)- From the Norra Bantorg (PI. B, 4),
tliruugh Tors-Gatan and Oden-Gatan (PI. A, 3) to the Morrtulls-Gatan (p. 315-,
change cars for Hafja).
6. The KoNC.SHOLM Lines run to the W. from the Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg
(PI. 1>, E, 6) through ISlroms-Oalan, over the Xi/a Kungshohnshro (PI. C, B),
etc. to I'rid!ie/iis-Galiin , returning through Flemingf-Gatan and over the
Kimgsbro to Kungs-Gatan (corner of Drotlnings-Oatan; PI. C, 4).
7. The SoDERMALM Electric Tbamwat (not connected with the Ring
I>ine) starts from the Monument of Charles XIV. John (PI. E, 8), ascends
IIornt-Qaian(V\. D-B, 9). corresponding with the electric tramway Iraversin;;
llngvalds-Oafan (PI. E, 8) to Ersla Galan (PI. H, 9), and runs on to Horn-
sUill (co^p. PI. A, 9).
Steam Launches (Angslupar). Communication between dift'erent parts
of the city and the environs is maintained by numerous steam-launches,
which cross Lake Miilaren and the Saltsjo (p. 347) in all directions at in-
tervals of 3-15 min. (fares 4, 7, 10, 15 ii.). Tickets are usually taken at
the offices on the quays and placed in the lioxes for the purpose on
entering the steamer. The various lines are .shown on the Plan. Those
plving to the Djuvyard (p. 344; landing-place at the Allmdnna-Grdnd,
Pi". H, I, 6, 7) are as follows: —
1. From the Edntmdstfirelrappa (PI. F, 7, 8) every V« ^^- 5 ^^^'^ "^ 8.
2. From the JVybrohainn (PI. F, 5) every '/t hr. ; fare 7 6.
3. From Skeppsholmen (PI. G, 6) every 1() min. ; fare 4 6.
4. From the Stromparterre (PI. E, 6) on Sun. and holidays, 3-il p.m.
.Among other lines may be mentioned: —
From the Kungstrddg&rd (Karls XII. Staty; PI. E. 5, (i) to the Stads-
gord (PI. F, 8; Saltss.iobaden station, p. 359); fare 5 ii.
From Guslafs III. Staty (PI. E, F, b) to the National Museum (PI. F, 6)
and to Gre/bron (I'l. F, 5; Strandvagen); fare 5 o.
Several of the steamboat-routes to the most interesting points in the
Environs of Stockholm are mentioned in K. 50. See also the second part
of Sveriges Kommunikationer (under the heading '' Stockholms Omgt/ningar^,
with sub - headings '■ Miilaren" and '■Sallsjon"). The smaller Stockholms
Anghats Turlitta (10 ii.) will be found still handier.
Post Office (P). 33, 1)6; removal to Vasa-Gatan contemplated), Kodbo-
Torgct. open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. ; Sundays 8-11 and 1-6 o'clock. — Telegraph
Office (PI. 47; E, F, 6), Skeppsbron 2, always open. — Also .several
branch-offices.
Banks. Sveriges liikshank (PI. 7; F, 7), Jerntorg 55; Skandinaviska
Kredit-Aktiebolag (PI. 8; E, 7), Storkyrkobrinken 7; Stockholms Enskilda
Bank (PI. 9; E, 7), Lilla Ny-Gatan 27; Stockholms Hondelsbank, Arsenals-
(latan 8.
British Minister , Hon. Sir W. fiari-irigton , A'. C. M. O. — American,
Hon. William W. Thomas. — Consuls. American, Mr. E. L. Adams; vice-
consul. Mr. Axel Georgii. British, Mi: A. S. M(tcGregor; vice-consul,
Mr. Carl BoHnder. — Lloyd's Agent, Mr. Q. I.indhe.rg.
Swedish Tourists' Union (Svenska Tiirislfbrening), near the Kungstriid-
gard, Xorrlands Gatan 2 it 4 (2nd floor); office-hours 10-4; gratis information
given on travelling matters. — Stockholms Hesebureau, in the Opera House,
for railway tickets and information. — F. Beyer^s Norwegian Tourist Office
(p. xiv) has its agency at Fritze's Book Shop (sec below).
Booksellers: C. E. Fritze's Ifoflwkhandel , Gustaf - Adolfs-Torg IS;
Nordiska Bokliauddn , Drollning-Gatan 7: Nordin <<: Josephson, Drottning-
Gatan 37. — Photographs; Axel Lindahl, Drowning- Gatan 29; Sreti,
Scltolander (photographic materials), Brunkebergs-Torg 14, b.ilh with dark
chambers for the use of tourists ; also at the bookshops. — Photographers :
OOtta Flbrmann, Regerings-Gatan 28a; Dahllof, Drottning-Gatan 47.
Shops. Anti(iuities: Frigga-Magasinet, Hamn- Gatan 16; A. Malsson,
Beridarebausgatan 23b. — Fishing-gear: Iddcsdorffska Manufactory., Storu
318 Route 4'J. STOCKUOLM. Prarticil Soles.
Ny-Gatun 12: G. A. Baslinnn , Kungstradgards - Gatan 12; f.vndijreyi's,
Storkyrohrinken 12. — Furs : /*. jV. Bcrgstrom, Freds-Gatan 18, near the
Gustaf-Addirs-Tors; Blomberif^ Drottning-Gatan 10; Z). Forfsels Himnr A Co.,
Drottning-Gatan 26 and Hairin-Gatan 13. — Jewellers: Anderson., Jacobs-
Torg 1; Ilallberg, Eegcrings-Gatan 9; MiJllenborg, Drottning-Gatan 14. —
Glovers and Men's Mercers: John Sorman, Regerings-Gatan 4; C. TiergstriJin,
Gustav - Adolfs-Torg 14; Alb. Schmidt, J. Silvancler, both in the Opera
Honse; C. Malmherg, Drottning-Gatan 17. — Miscellaneous Articles: Nor-
diska Ko/npaniet. Regerings-Gatan 5. — Porcelain: Depots of the Rorslrand
Factory, l)r()ttning-.Gatan 33 and Bibliotheks- Galan 10; Depot of the
Gusta/sberg Factory, Ostra TradgSrds-Gatan 2a, adjoining Karl XII.'sTorget.
— Swedish fancy-work: Bikupan , Klarabergs-Gatan 23. — Swedish iron
atid steel wares from Eskilsttma at the depots Malmtorgs-GatHn 1 and
Hibliotheks-Gatan 6, etc. — The Swedish Magazine of Industjial Art
(Svenska Konslslojd- Utsldllningen) , Kungstradgards-Gatan 2A , and the
Exhibition of Friends of Hani icvafts (Handarbeletsi'dtmer), see below, may
also be mentioned. — Art Dealer: Th. Blanch, Hamn-Gatan 16, at the
KungstradgSrd (N. side).
Baths. Slure-Gatan 4 (PI. K, 4; admirably equipped) and Malmturgs-
Gatan 3 (Turkish, etc.; PI. 6, 1)6). Swimming Bath (Simskolan) to the
W. of the railway-bridge at Stromsborg (PI. I), 6); Ladies' Baths (PI. 6;
F, 6), at the S.K. end of the Skeppsholms-Kro. — Sallsjbbad, sec p. 349.
Theatres. Kongl. TeMleni (p. 327), Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg ('parkett' 4'/^,
'ffirsta radens balkon' 5, 'avantfcenlogen' 4 kr.). — Kongl. Dramatiska
Teaiern (PI. 41 ; E, 5), Kungstradgards-Gatan 6, stalls 23/4-3 kr. — Srenska
Teatern (PI. 42; F, 5), Blasieholms-Gatan. — Vasa Teaiern, Vasa-Gatan 44. —
In the Djurgaud (p. 344) are the Djurgard Theatre, the Arena Theatre,
and other places of amusement (p. 345; PI. I, 5, 6), open in summer
only. — In Sodermalm (p. 343): Sodra Teatern, Mosebacke-Torg , with
summer-theatre.
Music in the afternoon and evening at Hasselhacken (p. 345), at the
Stromparterre (p. 320), at Blanches Cafi (p. 328), and in Bern's Salonger
(p. 328).
Collections, etc. (days and hours liable to alteration) : —
Archives, Roiial (p. 325), week-days 10 to 2.30.
"Armour and Costumes, Royal Musetitn of (p. 322), daily 12-3, Sun. 1-3 ;
Sun. and Frid. gratis; Tues. 50 6.; Mon., Wed., Thurs., and Sat. 1 kr.,
3-5 pers. 3 kr.
Art Exhibition (p. 328), Hamn-Gatan 16, cor. of the KungstradgSrd ;
week-davs 10-5, Sun. 1-4; adm. 50 6.
Artillery Museum (p. 328), Sun. 1-2.30 (free), Wed. 1-2.30 (10 o.); on
olher days (10-12) apply to the 'Tygmastare', to the left of the gate.
''Biological Museum (p. 345), from 10 a.m. till dusk (1 kr.) ; catalogue
(Swedish) 25 ii.
Carolinian Institution {Karolinska Institutels Samlingar ; PI. B, 6), Handt-
verkare-Gatan 3, a medical collection, Sun. 1-3, gratis.
Ethnographical Collection (p. 329), Sun. 1-3, Wed. & Sat. 12-2 (25 6.).
Fishery Museum, Master-Samuels-Gatan 47, week-days 12-3, Sun. 1-3, gratis.
Geological Museum^ (PI. 38; D, 5), Master-Samuels-Gatan 44, with Swedish
stones suitable for building, fossils, etc. ; Mon. and Thurs. 1-3, gratis.
Library, National (p. 330), week-days 10-3, free.
Handarbetets Vanner (Friends of Handicrafts), with a State subsidy,
for the promotion of national art, more especially in weaving, embroidery.
and national costume ; specimens of work for sale are shown Brunkc-
bergs-Torg 18 ; week-days 10-4.
1 "National Museum (p. 331): "Collection of Art and Industry, on the
1 1st and 2nd floors, week-days (except Mon.) 11-3, Sun. 1-3 (on Wed.,
^KThurs., and Sat. 50 6., at other times free); "^Historical Museum (Swedish
*; Antiquities) and Cabinet of Coins, on the groundfloor, in winter on Frid.
! 12-2 (or 12-3) and Sun. 1-3, in summer on Frid. and Tues. 12-3 and Sun. 1-3 (on
■ Tues. 25 6. ; at other times free). On Mon. the Museum is closed to the pub-
1 lie, but visitors are admitted for a fee of 1 kr. (apply to the door-keeper).
History. STOCKHOLM. 49. Roule. 319
Natural Historij Museum (p. 329), Wed. 12-2 and Sun. 1-3, free: Sat.
12-2, 25 ii. ; at other tirae.o 1 kr. ; catalogue 25 ii.
- yorthcni Museum (p. 3Q0), open on Sun., Slon., Tuc., Thurs., A Fiid.,
11-1 (adm. 25 o.. friim Oct. tci March 75 ij.). Illustrated '^uide 75 6.
Palace, lioyal (p. 321), tlie staterooms daily, the private rooms dur-
in;4 the absence of the royal family.
Panoptikon, Kungstriidgards-Gatan 18. daily 10-9 (1 kr.).
Regalia on the lirst Sun. in August.
Riddarliolms-Ktj rka (p. 326), in summer Tues. and Thurs. 12-2. adra.
25 o., Sat. 12-2, free; in winter Tues. and Thurs. 12-2, on application to
the 'Vaktmastare' at the Eiksmarskalks-Embete in the S.W. wing of the
Royal Palace (25 o.).
liiddarhus (p. 325), on week-days, on application to the 'Vaktmastare",
who is to be found till 3 p.m. in the antechamber on the first tloor, to
the left. Fee 1 kr.
'Skaiisen (p. 345). daily from 10 a.m. (50 6.); dance and song per-
formances weekly.
English Church (,S',S'. Peter il- Sigfrkl : PI. 21, B 2), Rorstrands-Gatan
(p. 329); services at 11 and 6: chaplain. Rev. E. 11'. Shepherd, M. A.
Chief Sights. National Museum; Museum of Armour and Co.«tnmcs;
Northern Museum; Royal Palace; Riddarholm? Kyrka; view fromKatarina-
Ilissen (p. 343); walks on the Skeppsholm (p. 342) and in the Djurgard
(p. 344). with a visit to the open-air museum of Skansen (p. 345) and the
view from the Bredablick Tower (p. 346). — Excursions to Salt''j6baden
(p. 349) and to Drottningholm (p. 350) or Gripsholm (p. 352).
Stockholm, the capital of the Kingdom of Sweden, the seat of
government and the supreme courts of law, with 307,750 inhab..
lies in 59° 10' 34" N. lat. , at the influx of Lake Mdlarcn into
an arm of the Baltic (Saltsjon) which forms an excellent harbour,
liable, however, to be frozen over for four or five months in winter.
The situation of the city on islands, on a plain, and on rocky
hills, surrounded by water and islands in almost every direction,
is highly picturesque. Stockholm has therefore been called the
'Venice of the North", and has also been compared with Marseilles
or Geneva; but no such comparison can convey an accurate
idea of the place. Its most striking peculiarity consists in the
immediate proximity of prinu'eval rock , practically unaffected by
the hand of man, with a flourishing seat of modern culture. While
most of the cities of Europe have not only wholly transformed the
plot of ground on which they stand , but have also considerably
affected the surrounding districts, Stockholm is still wrestling
with its environment, and in the Sodermalm, the Kungsholm, the
Skeppsholm, and the Kastellholm the bare granite rock is often
seen protruding in the midst of the houses.
History. In early Swedish history Sigtuna (p. 356) and Garni i I'psala
(p. 361) were the centres of the national life. The foundation of Stock-
holm dates from Birger Jarl of Bjelbo (p. lvi),.who in 1255, on the site
of a settlement which had been repeatedly destVoyed Itv pirates and hostile
trilios (the Esthonian.« and Carelians. about the year 1188), fortified the is-
lands now called Staden, I/elgeanJsholmeii, anA Riddarholmen, with towers
and wall.*, and made them the capital of his dominiims. It was long before
the city extended beyond the.^c islands. The increasing population had
several times begun to occupy the mainland to the N. and S., but these
settlements were as often swept away by the Danish besiegers (Jlargaret
320 Route 4H. STOCKHOLM. 1. Staden.
in 13S9, Christian I. in 1471, and Christian II. in 1520). At length, from
the middle of the 16th cent, onwards, the citizens were cnahled to extend
their borders in peace. About the middle of the 17th cent, the precincts
of the city were extended ,so as to embrace the N. and S. .suburbs, and the
former was built in accordance with a regular plan. In consequence of
great fires in 1697, 1725, 1751, 1759, 1835, and 1857 the old timber-built houses
have gradually been replaced by substantial stone edifices. About the
middle of the 17fh cent, the population was 15,000, in 1751 it had increa.'^ed
to 55,700, in 1800 to 75,500, in 1850 to 93.000, in 1870 to 136,000, in 1880 to
168,750, and in 1890 to 246,500.
Staden, or the old town, on an island at the mouth of Lake Ma-
laren, is connected with the N. suburb of Norrmalm by the ISorr-
6ro(p. 320) and the Vamhro (PL 1), 6; completed in 1878), and
with the S. suburb of Sodermalm by ^Slussen\ or the sluice-bridge
(PL ¥j, 8; p, 343). The N. and S. suburbs are also connected by
the fireat Railway Bridge, which cro.sses the two arms of the Rid-
darfjdrde and the island of Riddarholrn between them.
I. STADEN AND RIDDARHOLMEN.
The best survey of the singularly picturesque site of Stock-
holm and of its busy harbour-traffic is obtained from the *Norrbro
(PL E, 6), a handsome bridge of seven granite arches, 375 ft. long
and 62 ft. in width, completed in 1806, spanning the short river
which forms the chief discharge of Lake Miilaren, and connecting
the Norrmalm and Staden. Part of it stands on the E. side of the
small Helgeandsholm. On the E. side of the bridge is the Strom-
parterre (cafe, see p. 315), to which two flights of steps descend.
'Hur praktigt speglar ej den strommen af
Torn, hjeltestoder, slott och sangartempel,
Och aftonrodnan iifver Eiddarholmen,
Der Sveriges ara sofver under marmorl' fTEGNfiu)
'Tower, heroes' statues, palace, muses' fane
Stand nobly mirrored in the stream below,
While bathed in evening-red glows Riddarholrn,
Where, beneath marble, Sweden's glory sleeps'.
/^ On the W. side of Helgeandsholm are the new buildings lor the
National Diet and the National Bank, both designed by Aron
Johansson. The former was completed, so far as the exterior is
■ concerned, in the spring of 1903, but the interior will not be
finished for two or three years more. The Bank is expected to be
ready for occupation in 1904 or 1905.
From the S.E. end of the bridge the Skeppshro ('ship quay' or
'bridge'), a broad quay, constructed of granite like all the others at
Stockholm, extends round the E. side of Staden, where most of the
sea-going steamers, as well as numerous steam-launches, are berth-
ed. Approaching Staden from the N., we observe on the right the
Mynt-Torg and the old Mint, with its fa(;,ade of four columns, now
occupied by public offices. (Mynt-Gatan leads thence to the Rid-
darhus-Torg, p. 325.)
At the S.E. end of the Norrbro, on the N. end of the island of
7. Staden. STOCKHOLM. 49. Route. 321
Stadeii, rises the *Royal PaJ[ace (PI. E, 6), begun on the site of an
earlier edifice (the 'Tre Kronoi', turned in 1697) by Nir.odemus
Tessin the Younger, a Swedish architect, in the Italian Renaissance
style. The work was interrupted by the wars of Charles XII., but
was completed by Count Karl Gust. Tessin (son of the first archi-
tect), Harlemiin, and Cronstedt in 17G0, and tlioroughly renovated
in 1898-1901. This spacious edifice, consisting of grotindfloor,
entresol, and two upper stories, forms a rectangle of 136 yds. by
127 yds., and encloses a court nearly square in shape. The N. and
S. fagades are adjoined by four lower wings, extending E. and W.,
so that the N. facade is double the length of the ceTitral building.
The N.W. portal, facing the bridge, has a handsome approach,
constructed in 1824-34, and called Lejonbacken from the bronze
lions, cast in 1704, which adorn it. On the S.W. side of the palace
are two detached buildings forming a small semicircular outer
court, one of them being the cMei Guard House. On the N.E. side,
between the projecting wings, is a small garden called Logarden
or 'lynx-yard', said to derive its name from a small menagerie
once kept here. The central quadrangle, entered by the N.W.,
S.W., and S.E. portals, is open to the public.
The Palace is almost always open to visitors in summer (comp.
p. 319). The rooms on each floor are shown by a different attendant
(^Vaktmdstare ; fee I kr. to each).
The Principai, Entrance is in ih.e__W. wing, hy the Guard House.
Passing the seniinil, wfettmr'WTTie left in the gateway and ascend a hand-
some staircase, with now ceiling-paintings by Prof. Jul. Kronhevg : Svea,
the genius of Sweden, with the Landing of Charles XIV. .Tohn , nn
one side, and Oscar II. receiving the doctor's degree, on the other. On
the staircase leading to the second story arc Aurora and the Four Ele-
ments, and higher up, the Guardian Angel, all by Kronberg. On the
landing of the second floor is a marble group, by BytirSm, of Juno and
the infant Hercules.
On the Seconp Flook, to Ihc right, are the sumptuous stafe-aparfments
known as the Festivitets-Vlning, once occupied by Charles XIV. .lohn.
We first pass throuiih the Life Guard Saloon, the Council /loom, and the
Audience Room, the two hitter containing some fine old tapestry and the
last a smoke-darkened ceiling-painting illustrative of the history of Alex-
ander the Great by Jacques Fouquet (1700). The Fud Saloon contains allegor-
ical ceiling-paintings by Fouquet with reference to the youth of Charles XII.,
and a valuable silver candelabrum of the time of Charles X. — We
next come to the Grand Gallery, .'j'i yds. long and 7'/'.' yds. wide, richly
decorated with stucc<i, marble, and gilding, as are also two adjoining
cabinets. The handsome doors, carved in oak by Ilenrion in 1696-99, were
designed by Fouipiet. The allegorical ceiling-paintings are also by Fouquet
(1702). This room and tlie following contain a number of sculptures in
marble by Fogelhenj, B>/xlrom, MoUn, and others. — The Great Banqueting
Saloon is known as Ilvita Ilafvel ('the white sea'), from its white stuccoed
walls. The ceiling-paintings are by Italian artists of the first half of the
ISth century.
The First Fi,oon of the same wing contains (on the left of the visitor
ascending the staircase) the A'twy's .■t;)a)'//«en<s (Oscar II., b. 1829), adjoined
by the Qxieen^s Apartments (.Sophia, of Nassau, b. 183G). These are, how-
ever, usually approached by visitors fr< m the K. wing (p. 322). The royal
apartments are anuniluously adorned with old panelling and ceilings,
tasteful antique furniture, porcelain, sculptures, ami paintings. Among
Hakueker's Korway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 21
A
>^
322 Route 49. STOCKHOLM. /. Staden.
the works of art iu the Salon are : Cupid, by Sergei; portraits of Charles XIV.
John (Bernadotte), his consort Desirt!e Clary, Napoleon 1., Josephine,
Hortense Beauharnais, Queen of Holland, and Princess Augusta Amalia
of Bavaria, wife of Eugene Beauharnais, all by Fr. Girard; mioiatures
by Isabey ; and a portrait of Oscar II., by Zovn. The gallery of old
masters includes : J. van Goyeti, Coast-scene ; Jau Mcirsan, Battles of Gustavus
Adolphus; Gtrbr. ran den Eeckkout , Portrait of a lady; Meiiiling, Portrait
of an ecclesiastic; /. D. de Neem, .Still-life; Frans BaU, Fine portraits of
a Dutchman and his wife (163-)) ; S. Botticelli, Head of a youth. Here also
are a bust and an equestrian statuette of Charles XII., by Bouchai'don.
The E. wing is entered from the court. In the archway is a plaster
cast of SergeVs model for the colossal group on the Gustavu"! Adolphus
Monument, the bronze reproduction of which (comp. p. 327) has only
,. just been completed. Beyond it. where a staircase (closed) descends to
^ the Logard (p. 321), we have a fine view of the harbour. — The grand
stairca'^e, opposite the plaster group, ascends to the private apartments
(1st floor) and staterooms (2nd floor) of the Crown Prince and Princess
(Gustavus, b. I85S; Victoria, (if Baden, b. 1862) These apartments c(mtain
paintings by Oiide, MorUa Midler, and others and an attractive collection of
silver-ware; most of the fiiriiiture is modern. To the left are the King's
apartments (see p. 321).
S. Wing. The stairca,se to the left in the finely vaulted passage between
the court and Slottsbacken (p. 323) ascends to the Palace C/iapel, which
is adorned with ceiling-paintings by Ehrenstrahl and sculptures by Bou-
chardon and Sergei (service on Sun. at 11 a.m.). — The staircase to the right
leads to the Riks-Sal or Imperial Hall, where the ceremony of opening
the Representative Chambers takes place. Adjoining the silver throne
are statues, by Fogelberg, of Gustavus Adolphus and Charles XIV. John.
Farther on is the Seraphim Saloon (for the knights of the Seraphim Order,
the highest in Sweden, founded in 1748).
The N.E. wing of the Palace, entered hy a door on the E. side
of the Lejonbacke (p. 321), contains the royal *Lifrnst och Klad-
Kammare, or Museum of Armour and Costumes, one of the linest
existing collections of the kind (adm., see p. 31S; catalogue 75 o.,
iu French 1 kr,).
The first floor (to which visitors are taken first) contains the Lifrusi-
Kamm.^re, ot Armour Chamber. Main Hall. On the walls are trophies
of weapons, Swedish flags and standards from the beginning of the 17th cent,
onwards, and equestrian and other suits of armour. In front: 7, 8, 9, 10.
German suits of the 16lh cent., including one in the fluted style introduced
by the Emp. Maximilian. Between these are glass-cases. Case 48 (to the
right of the entrance): Two so-called Burgundian helmets (one said to
have belonged to Eric XIV., the other to Gustavus Adolphus; restored);
Shield of Eric XIV. ; Baton of Gustavus Adolphus, in chased silver; silver
mountings of a saddle, in the late-Renaissance style. Case 46-47: Swords
of Gustavus Vasa, Gustavus II. Adolphus, and others. Case 49-50. Dam-
ascened sabre and daggers enriched with precious stones ; cross-bow, muskets,
and pistols of Queen Christina and Charles X. By the window, 28. Morion,
said to have belonged to Gustavus Adolphus. — Cases 53-52 (to the left of
the entrance): Portions of armour worn by Gustavus Adolphus; sword and
pistols used by him at Liitzen. Case 52 contains the blood-stained shirts
and leathern ierkin in which Gustavus Adolphus was wounded at Dantzic
(May 24th, 1627) and at Dirschau (Aug. 8th, 1627); and the shirt in which he
was killed at Liitzen (Nov. 6th, 1632); also his collar, armlets, gloves, etc.
— To the right, 51. Horse (stulfed) ridden by Gustavus Adolphus at Liitzen
and a standard of 1626; to the right and left, tapestries. Two finely
ornamented caparisons, bearing the Swedish arms and the initials of
Gustavus Adolphus (1621). — To the left: 11. Armour of Gustavus Vasa
(German); 15. Parade armour of Charles IX., showing the arms of Sweden,
a fine specimen of German workmanship (end of the 16th cent ) ; 12. German
suit of the same period; 13. Italian suit of the middle of the 16th century,
/. Sladen. STOCKHOLM. 49. Route. 323
t'ase ['22. Sabre and daggers enriched with precious stones and a saddle,
giri3 from Prince Bethlen (iabor of Transylvania to Gustavus Adolphusj
hehnet of Ivan the Terrible of Russia; golden 'Sword Medal", the only
one of its kind ever made, given by Oscar II. to Enip. William I., and
returned after the latter's death. — To the right: 120. Velvet saddle richly
embellished with silver and copper, probably made for Emp. Rudolph II.
and brought to Sweden as booty ; 122a. Saddle probably used by Gustavus
Adolphus at his coronation. — To the left: 16. Parade armour, worn on
June 2'2nd, 1634, at the funeral of Gustavus Adolphus; 17. Jousting armour
(17th cent); botween these, shuw-case with sumptuous saddles — To the
right: 14. Italian suit of armour (16th cent); IS. Parade armour showing
the arms of Sweden and the name of Charles X. ; between these, 22. Model
of the campaign armour of an artillery colonel of 16T0; Case 54-56. Gorgets
and swords of the 17th century. — At the end of the room is a bust of
Oscar II. To the right of it. Case 56-57. Swords of the 18th and early
10th cent. ; Helmet and cuirass of Frederick VII. of Denmark. To the left
of the bust, 23. Child's suit of armour, of the end of the 17th century.
In the long Corridor, communicating with the main saloon by two
iluors, are the following (beginning at the front entrance): Wall-ease 70-78.
Swords, daggers, and sabres of German, Italian, and Spanish wtrkmanship,
with a few French and other specimens. No. 73 d. Parade sword from
Solingon (1573), probably once the property of Gustavus Adolphus. Case 79;
Daggers of the IGth and 17tli centuries. Case 80. Hunting-knives. Case 81
(beside the near entrance): Muskets of the 16lh century, i'ases S2 85.
Kowling-piece,s of the 16th and 17th cent., some of most elaborate work-
manship. Cases 86-90. Pistols (chiefly French) of the same period. Case 90b.
-Air guns, etc. Case 91. Powder-horns. Cases 92-93. Oriental weapons.
From the end of the corridor we descend to the —
Klad-Kammare, or Costume Chamber, on the groundfloor. Case 111.
Uniforms of Gustavus III. and Gustavus IV., including the masquerade-
suit in which the former was shot by Capt. Ankarstrom at the ball in the
Great Theatre (p. 327) in 1792. Case 112. Coronation robes of Charles XIII.
and Queen Hedvig Elizabeth Charlotte. Case 114. Robes of the Seraphim
Order worn by Gustavus III. Cases 116-119. State- garments of various
kinds; five coronation-coaches and a state-sleigh (17-l9ih cent.). — Room II.
Case 1(J4 (to the right): Suit worn by CbarKs Xll. at the siege of Fredriks-
hald, including thi: hat with the fatal bullet-hole (Dec. 11th, 1718). Ca.^es
97-100. Clothes of Charles X.; in 99 his coronation - mantle; in ICO a
Persian garment. Case 95. Coronation-mantle of Charles IX.; clothes of
(justavus Adolphus. In the centre : Case 94. So-called Burgundian costume
of the 17th cent., of black silk embroidered with silver, repaired for the
use of Gustavus III. Near the e.xit at the end of the room: 127. Bed of
black silk with coloured embroidery (16th cent.); 126. Embroidered arms
of Sweden, from the reign of Eric XIV.; line silver font of 1697-1707;
cradle of Charles XII., etc. — Wall-case 105. Russian booty from the
battle of Narva (1700). Cases 107, 108. Con.nation - suits of Adoliihus
Frcderik (1751) and Gustavus III. Case 115. Uniforms and suits of
Charles IV., John, Oscar I., and Charles XV. Case 110. The 'Swedish
Costume' invented bv Gustavus III. Case 125. Coronation -saddle of
Charles XIV. John.
The S.E. fa(;a(le of the Palace, with its colonnade, looks towards
Slottsbackkn, or the Palace Hill (PI. E, 6), a handsome Plats de-
scending to tlie Skeppsbro. Slottsbacken is adorned with an
Obeli.'ik, 100 ft. high, erected in 1799 by Gustavus IV. in memory
of the loyalty of the citizens during the war against Ilussia in 1788-
90, wliile the nobility were hostile to their sovereign (p. l.\x). At
the foot of Slottsbacken, on the Skeppsbro, rises the finely exe-
cuted *Monument of Gustavus III. (PI. E, F, 6}, by J. T. Sergei, a
Swedish sculptor (p. 8H.')), erected in 1808 by subscription lit lionour
21 »
324 Route 49. STOCKHOLM. /. Stadm.
of that chivalric monarch. The rudder on which the statue of the
King leans is an allusion to his naval victories. Fine view of the
harbour and the Skeppsholm. — From the flight of steps steam-
launches (p. 317) ply to the National Museum (p. 331) and to
Grefsbron. The steamers for the Saltsjobad also start here (p. 349).
The Governor''s House {Ofverstathallare-Husel; PI. 30, E67),
on the S.E. side of the Slottshacke, with its handsome little court,
was erected by Nicod. Tessin (p. 3'31), to whom it originally be-
longed.
At th3 S.W. end of the Slottshacke rises the Storkyrka (Great
Church, or Church of St. Nicholas; PI. 27, E 7), which, according
to a modern inscription, was founded by Birger Jarl in 1'264, and
rebuilt and provided with the uupleasing tower (184 ft. high) in
1726-43. The church was thoroughly restored in 1892. At the E. end,
facing the Slottshacke. is a monument to Olaus Petri (1493-1552),
the reformer and first Protestant preacher in Stockholm, by T. Lund-
berg (1897) The main entrance to the church is in the Trangsund.
In the interior, which consists of a nave with double aisles, is a
rich reredos from Augsburg (beginning of 17th cent.), in silver,
ivory, and ebony, with IS scenes from the Passion. We also observe
a brass candelabrum with seven branches, of the 14th cent. ; two
huge pictures ('Last Judgment' and 'Crucifixion') by Ehrenstrahl
(d. 1698); the elaborately carved pulpit and royal stalls; several
ancient tombstones ; and the rich silver vessels in the sacristy. The
'Kyrkvaktare', or sacristan, lives at Svartman - Gatan 22 (upper
floor), beyond the German church (see below ; fee ^2"! kr.).
A short street leads to the S. from Slottsbacken to the Stob-
ToRG {^Great Market; PI. E, 7), the central and highest point of
the old town, bounded on the N.W. by the Exchange (PI. 12;
business-hour 1 p.m.). In this market-place several tragic scenes
have been enacted. In 1280 Magnus Ladulas caused three members
of his own family to be executed. In 1437 Erik Puke and in 1605
the royal counsellor Bjelke were beheaded here. The saddest event
in the annals of the city, known as the Stockholm Blood Bath, took
place in the Stor-Torg on 10th and 11th November, 1520, when
Christian II. of Denmark caused a great number of his opponents
to he executed here in the vain hope of consolidating his power in
Sweden (p. Ixii).
Numerous steep lanes, called Brinkar and Grander, intersected
by cross-streets, descend from the Stor-Torg to the Skeppsbro to the
E., and to Vesterlang-Gatan and Stora Ny-Gatan to the W., forming
the headquarters of the humbler tradesmen, whose characteristics
are not without interest. The different quarters still bear their an-
cient names.
In Svartman -Gatan, to the S.E. of the Stor-Torg, rises the
Tyska Kyrka, or German Church{V\. 28; E, 7), erected in 1036-42,
ami restoreil from Kaschdorff's plans after a fire in 1878. The
/. Staden. STOCKHOLM. 49. Route. 325
tower contains a set of chimes. The pulpit and altar were presentwi
by German merchants in the 17th cent.; the stained fjlass is from
Munich (1887). The sacristan lives opposite the 8. portal.
We now descend to the S.W. to Slora Ny-Gatan, which leads
to the N.W. to the Uiddarhus-Torg. ,\t t\u\ S.E. end of Ny-Gatan
lies the Koenhamns-Torg ('corn-harbour market'; PI. E, 7), beyond
which is Slussen, the bridge leading to Sddcrmalm ; or we may cross
to Maria-Hissen by steam-launch (see p. 343). Or we may turn
to the right from the Kornhamns-Torg to the Malar-Torg and the
KoTT-ToRG ( 'meat-market'; PI. D, E, 7), over which runs the railway.
These quays command fine views of .Sodermalm and of Lake Miilaren,
and are called at by numerous steamboats. To the N. of the Kiitt-
Torg we reach the Munkbro ('monks' bridge': PI. D, 7), the scene
of the busiest market-traffic.
The RiDDARHUs-ToRG (PL D, 7) is bounded on the N. by the
Kiddarhus and the TounHalli^Radhus; PI. 34), which are separated
by the Kiddarhus-Griind, leading to the Vasi Bridge. The market-
place is adorned with a Statue of Gustavus Vasa, designed by
P. H. Larchceque, and erected in 1773 by the Swedish nobility on
the 2r)0th anniversary of the day when the king entered Stockholm
and delivered Lis country from the DaTiish yoke (p. Ixiii). On
July 13th, 1756, Count I'lrahe, Barons Horn and Wrangel, and
others were brought to the scalTold here for conspiring to under-
mine the constitution. On June 10th, ISIO, Marshal Axel von
Fersen was lynched by the populace, alarmed by the sudden death
of the crown-prince, and believing he had been poisoned by the
marshal.
The Riddarhus (^Knights' House; PL 35, D 7), a brick and
sandstone structure, designed in 1641-74 by Simon de la Vallee
and others, is adorned with allegorical figures and Latin inscriptions
on the fa(.a(lc. In a large room on the first floor, with the armorial
bearings of all the Swedish nobles, and ceiling-paintings by Ehren-
strahl, the Chamber of Nobles held its meetings down to 1866. A
room on the groundfloor contains portraits of all the marshals dt
the nobility from 16'27 to 1866, except Count Lojonhnfvud, who was
blamed for the failure of the war against Finland in 1740-43, and
beheaded in 1743. Adm., see p. 319. On the N. side of the build-
ing, in the anterior court, is a statue, by J. Biirjeson, of the chan-
cellor Axel Oxenstjerna (p. Ixvi), erected in 1890.
From file Riddarhus-Torg a bridge leads to the S."\V. to the
HiDDAiiHOLM (PI. I), 7) and the Riddarholm chunh. To the right
is the new liiks-Arkh) (PI. 5 ; open on week-days, 10-'2.30). In
front is the Sicedi-^h Court of Appeal (Svea Hofralt; PI. 18). In the
middle of the p tots, on a granite pedestal, is a Statue of Kirger Jarl
(p. 319) in bronze, designed by Foijelberg and erected by the citizens
in 1854.
326 Route 49. STOCKHOLM. 7. Riddarhotmen.
The *Riddarholm8-Kyrka (PI. 25), -with its conspicuous per-
forated sptfe oT casTlfon^ 29T) ft. liigh, was formerly a church of tlie
Franciscans, and has been the burial-place of the Swedish kings
and heroes since the reign of Gustavus Adolphus. The building is
Gothic, disfigured by Renaissance additions. Divine worship has
not been performed here since 1807, except in the case of royal fu-
nerals. The principal entrance is at the W. end. (Adm., see p. 319.)
The walls (if the cliurch are blazoned with the armorial bearings of the
deceased knights of the Seraphim Order (p .322; including those of Pre-
sident Carnot and the German Emperors William I. and Frederick III.),
and the pavement is formed of tombstones. In the choir, in front of the
high-altar, are the Momimcnis of Kings ifagnua Ladulas (d. 1320) and
Charles VIJI. (d. 1470), with recumbent stone figures of thes'^ kings,
erected in the reign of .John III. (16th cent.). On the right (S.) is the
Burial Chapel of Gustavus Adolphus (Gustavianska Grafkorel), constructed
in 1633 according to the king's order issued in 1029 before his departure
for Germany. Since 1832, the 200th anniversary of the monarch's death
(at the battle of Liitzen, 6th Nov., 1632), his remains have reposed in
a green marble sarcophagus, originally executed in Italy by order of
Gustavus III. for the reception of the body of his father Adolphus
Frederick, but left unused. It bears the simple inscription : Gustavus
Adolfus Magnus. The sarcophagus is covered by a banner bearing the
Swedish arms and by the ribands from the garlands placed here. Behind the
sarcophagus are placed the king's banner, borne at Lutzen, and the royal
Swedish banner. On the walls arc arranged captured drums and trumpets
and Gei-man, Russian, and other (lags as trophies of the king's victories.
In front, to the left, is the sarcophagus of Maria Eleonora of Branden-
burg (d. 1655), the queen of Gustavus Adolphus. In the vault below are
interred kings Adolphus Frederick (d. 1771), Gustavus III. (d. 1792), Gus-
tavus ir. (d. 1837; p. Ixx), and Charles XIII. (d. 1818), with their queens,
and other members of the Holstein-Gottorp family. — On the opposite
(N.) side of the church is the Carolinian Chapel ( Karolinska Grafkorel),
constructed in 1686-1743. It contains the sarcophagus of Charles XII.
(d. 1718), in dark-grey marble, on which are placed the royal insignia in
bronze-gilt. To the right is the marble sarcophagus of Frederick I. (A. 1751),
and on the left reposes his queen Ulrika Eleonora (d. 1742), sister of
Charles XII. Between the windows are trophies of Polish, Danish, and
Kiissian flags. In the vault below are interred Charles X. Gustavus (d. 1660),
Charles XI. (d. 1697), and their queens, and several princes of the Vasa
family. — Adjoining the Chapel of Gustavus, on the S. side of the choir,
is the Bernadolte Chapel ( Bernadotleska Grafkoret)., built from a design
by Prof. Scholander in 1858-60. A massive sarcophagus of porphyry here
contains the remains of Charles XIV. John (d. 1844). The vault contains
the coffin of his queen Desideria (d. 1860), and those of Oscar I. (d. 1859)
and his queen Josephine, of Charles XV. (d. 1872), and other princes.
In the aisles of the church are the burial-vaults of Count Lejonhufvud,
with numerous Russian flags; Counts Wachtmeister and von Fersen, also with
Russian flags ; Count Torsfensson, with a marble bust of Marshal Lennart
Torstensson (d. 1651), with numerous German and other flags ; Count Va-
saborg, with German flags; Marshal Banir (in the centre of the S. aisle,
visible through a pointed doorway), with the armour and a large portrait
of the marshal (d. at Halberstadt, 1641) and many German flags.
The Railway Bridge (p. 320), crossing the Riddarholm, has a
footway on theN.E. side, leading to the islet of Stromsborg (¥\. !),&),
and to the swimming-school.
II. Northern Quarters. STOCKHOLM. 49 . lioutc. '^21
II. THE NORTHERN QUARTERS OF THE CITY.
At the N. end of the Norrhro (p. 320) lies the Qustaf-Adolfs-
ToRG (PI. E, 6), in which rises a lofty pedestal of Swedish gramte
and marble, bearing an equestrian Statue of Gustavus Adolphus, in
bronze, designed by P. H. Larcheveque irTTTTl, and erected in
1796. The pedestal is adorned with bronze reliefs of the Swedisli
generals Torstensson, Wrangel, I'ane'r, and Konigsmark, and with
a large bronze group by Johan Tobias Sergei (comp. p. 335),
representing the Chancellor Oxenstjeriia recounting to the Muse of
History the deeds of the valiant monarch. For the addition of this
group (comp. p. 322), which was cast at the expense of E. Ceder-
lund, a well-known merchant, the whole monument had to be
considerably raised (1903). — On the W. side of tlie Gustaf-Adolfs-
Torg, between Stroms-Gatan and Freds-Gatan, rises the so-called
Arfprinsens Palais (PI. 31 ; D, 6), erected in 1783-93. To the N.W.
is Malmtorgs-Gatan, leading to the Brunkebergs-Torg (p. 329). To
the N. opens tlie wide Regerings-Gaian.
The E. side of the Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg is occupied by the Royal.
Opera House (PI. 40; E, 6), an imposing structure in the style of
th~e Renaissance, from the designs of Axel Anderherg, built in
1894-98 on the site of the 'Great Theatre' (comp. p. 323), erected
by Gustavus III., who was an enthusiastic patron of the national
poetry. Bronze figures of the Dramatic Arts adorn the entrance-
hall. A staircase of white marble and stucco ascends to a gorgeously
adorned foyer. The auditorium has 1250 seats. — In the E. wing
of the Opera House are tlie Opera Kallare (p. 314) and the Opera
Cafe (p. 315), the large terrace of which affords one of the best
views of the busiest and most beautiful part of Stockholm.
To the E. of the Opera House, in the pleasure-grounds of K.vui,
])i:n Tolftks Toeg (PI. K, 5, 6), rises the *Statue of Charles XII,,
by J. P. Molin, erected in 1808 by national suhscriptiou. Tlie
four mortars round it, ornamented with reliefs of the Rape of Pro-
serpine, were captured by the king at Neumiinde, near Dantsic,
in 1701. Adjacent is a station of the small steamers to tlie station
of tlic Saltsjo Steam Tramway in Scidermalm (p. 317). — To the
E. lie the district of Blasieliolmen and the National Museum
(p. 331).
The KuNG.sTRATJGARi) (PI. E, 5; 'Kings Garden'), to the N.,
with its trees and flower-beds, is the chief winter-promenade of
Stockholm. Tlie Fountain in the front part of the grounds, also by
Molin, is embellished witli allegorical bronze statues ('The daugh-
ters of tlie sea-god /Egir listening to tlie harping of the Nixies', an
allusion to the situation of Stockholm between lake and sea). — To
the W. is the Jakohs- Kyrka (Fl. 23), where Marshal Gustaf Horn is
interred (d. I(i59). It dates from the early 17th cent, and has a
Renaissance portal. The interior was effectively restored in 1893. —
328 Route 49. STOCKHOLM. 11. Northern
To theE. rises the Dramatiska Tenter (PI. 41, E 5; p. 318), erected
in 1842.
• The middle of the Kungstradgard is occupied by the__gjiant]i,e
•^ of Charles XIII. (PI. E, 5), erected by Charles XIV. John (1821)
Tji,» to his adopHve father, designed by E. G. Gothe, and cast at Paris.
The fine lions at the foot of the moniuaent are by Fogelberg. The
King is represented in the robes of the Seraphim Order. — To
the N.W. of the statue is BliinclCs Cofe (p. 315), with the exhibition
of the Society of Arts (Allmanna Knnstfdrening ; PI. 19).
Hamn-Gatan, like the otlier streets on the same side of the
Kungstradgard, ends on the E. at the Herzblii Pabk (PI. E, 5),
where Bern's Salonger (p. 315), a cafe and pleasure-resort, attracts
many loungers of an afternoon and evening. In the middle rises a
Statue of Berzelius (d. 1848), the chemist, by Qvarnstrdm. On the
E. side, towards the Nybrovik, is a statue of John Ericsson, the
celebrated engineer (p. 336), by J. Bcirjeson. — To the S. of the
Berzelii Park is Varendorfs-Gatan, with the Synagogue (PI. 39;
E, 5), erected in 1870.
The Ostermalm quarter of the city, extending on the N.E. of
the park as far as Carlaviigen (PI. F, G, 3), has sprung up within
the last 25 years, and contains numerous lofty dwelling-houses,
whose granite farades produce a very handsome effect. The busiest
street is Birger-Jarls-Gatan (PI. E, 4; tramway No. 1, p. 315).
At the Sture-Plan Sture-Gatan diverges to the right, skirting
the E. side of the Humlegard. — At the Ostermalms-Torg are the
Hedvig Eleonora Kyrka and the Artilleri-Gard (PI F, 4), with a
museum of artillery and "weapons (adm., see p. 318). To the S. are
the Royal Stables. — This quarter is bounded on the S. by the bays
oi Nybrovik a.nA Ladugardslandsvik, along which runs Strandvagen
(PI. F, G, H, 6) to the Djurgard (p. 344), lined with handsome
four-storied houses.
From the W. side of the Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg (p. 327) diverge
the well-built Strom-Gatan, skirting the Norrstrom, and the busy
Freds-Gatan. On the N. side of the Rodbo-Torg, at the end of the
latter street, stands the new buildiiig of the Akademi for de fria
Konstema (PI. 1 ; D, 6) or Academy of the Fine Arts, erected in
1893-95 from the designs of Erik Lallerstedt. Adjacent is the Post
Office (PI. 33 ; D, 6). — Still farther to the W., at the beginning
of Vasa-Gatan, and to the S. of the Central Raihuay Station ( PI. C, 6;
p. 314), is a statue, also by J. Borjeson (1893), of Nils Ericsson,
the elder brother of the still more famous John (see above) and
like him an eminent engineer; he constructed the new Trolhattan
locks (see p. 295) and was the founder of the Swedish railway-system.
The streets between the Central Railway Station and the Gustaf-
Adolfs-Torg are the busiest in the N. part of the city. The finest
shops are in Drottning-Gatan (PI. D, 6, 5, C, 4, 3), which traverses
QuarUn. STOCKHOLM. 49. Route. 329
the whole district and is to be ultimately connected by a bridge
\vith the new National Diet (p. 320).
Between Drottning-Gatan and Reg^rings-Gatan (p. 327) lies
the Brrtnkebercis-Torg {¥}.!>, 5), on the site of a sand-hill now
removed and connected with the Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg by Malmtorgs-
Gatan. To the N. of the Bruukebergs-Torg is the lofty Telephone
Tower. Here also is the Central Gymnastic Institution (PL 17; D, 5).
founded in 1813 by P. H. Ling (d\ 1839).
Between Drottning-Gatan and the Railway Station rises the
Klara-Kyrka fPl. D, 5), erected in 1751-53 after the destruction
by fire of an earlier church founded in 1285. In 1886-93 it was
well restored and provided with a steeple 340 ft. high. By the al-
tar are sculptures by Sergei. { 'Klockare', Klara Vestra Kyrko-
Gatan 14 A.) In the adjoining chunhyard reposes the poet Bellman
(^d. 1785; p. Ixxii).
In Drottning-Gatan, about 7 min. to the N.W. of the Klara-
Kyrka, beyond Tunnel-Gatan (p. 330), is the ^Northern Museum
(PI. 13; C, 4), an interesting collection of Scandinavian costumes,
weapons, domestic utensils, agricultural implements, etc., founded
by Dr. Ilazelius (p. 346), and greatly extended since. The bulk of
the rollections is so huge, that no proper survey of them can be
obtained before their final arrangement in thenew building (p. 344),
to which they are now being transferred. In the meantime they are
deposited in several different houses: Drottning-Gatan Nos. 71a.
71o, 77, 79, and 88. The attendants are women in the costume of
Dalecarlia. (Adm., see p. 319.)
In Riirstrands-Gatan, diverging to the S.W., rises the Gothic
English Churcli (PI. 21 ; B, 4).
On the right side of Drottning-Gatan. nearly opposite Wallin,-
Gatan, is the Academy of Science {Vetenskaps-Akndemi; PI. 4.
('. 3. 4), founded by Swedish savants in 1739, endowed by govoni-
nient in 1741, and reconstituted in 1820. The first president was
Linnaeus i^Karl vonLinne'; 1707-78). the celebrated botanist. The
academy now numbers 175 members, of whom 75 are foreigners.
The buildin;: contains the valuable and interesting * Natural History
Collections of the National Museum (entr. in Wallin-Gatan), the
property of the state (ailm., see p. 319).
On the groundfloor is the Mineralogical Collection; in the lobby is a frag-
ment of iron weigbini 2l) tons lound in W. G'llland. — On the first floor
is the Zooliujical Collection (short guide 2.0 6 ), which is especially interesting
for its .specimen ; of Northern species (at the entrance, in RU. IX-XII, etc.).
— Nearly o]>posite, at Wallin-Gatan 1, is the Ethnographical Collection, with
objects found by Capt. Cook in the Antarctic Ocean (1772-75) and by
Xordenskjold in the Arctii; Regi'ins.
In Drottning-Gatan, on the left, a little beyond the Academy
of Science, is the Teclmical High School (TekniskaHSgskolan; PI. A(y.
1> 3), designed by Prof. Scholander, and erected in 1863. With it
330 Route -19. S'lOGKllOLM. Ji. Norlhern
is connected the Bergskola or School of Mining. Library and collec-
tions open on Mon. and Thurs., 12-2. On a height at the N. end of
Drottning-Gatan (flight of steps) rises the Observatory (PI. B, 3),
erected in 1748-52, commanding a fine view of the city ('Vaktmas-
tare' 25 6.). — To the N.W. of this point is the new quarter of
Vasasladen (see Map, p. 348).
The builrling with the copper - sheathed tower, at the corner of
Observatorii-Gatan and Vestmanna-Gatan, contains the present quarters
of the Nobel Fund, bequeathed by Alfred Nohel (b. at Stockholm in 1833,
d. at San Eemo in 1896), the famous chemist and inventor of dynamite.
The interest of this fund of about 31,f)00,OUO kr. is to be devoted (o the
presentation of five annual prizes for the most important discoveries in
physics, chemistry, and medicine, for the most important work in the
domain of letters, and for the most important contribution to the promo-
tion of international arbitration. The library is open 1o the public on
week-days in winter (Sept.-BIay) and on Tnes. & Frid., 10-3, in summer
(.Tune-Aiig.)-
To the E. of the Academy rises the conspicuous Adolf-Fredriks-
Kyrka (PI. 0, 3, 4), a plain baroque structure in the form of a
Greek cross, erected in 1768-74 from the designs of Adelcrantz and
lately restored. It contains an altar-piece (Resurrection) in plaster,
by Sergei, and a monument, with sculptures by Sergei, to Descartes
(d. at Stockholm, 1650), the famous French mathematician and
philosopher, whose remains were removed to Paris in 1661. Sergei
and the poet B, Lidner are buried in the churchyard. — Farther to
the N.E. is the Johannes-Kyrka (PI. D, 3), a Gothic brick building
by Carl Moi^er (1889), with a lofty tower. It stands on the Brunke-
bergsas, one of the highest points in the city, and hence is con-
spicuous from every side. — The S. part of the Brunkeberg is pen-
etrated by a Tunnel (275 yds. long; toll 2 o.), which connects
David-Bagares-Gatan and the Humlegard with Tunnel- Gatan, a
side-street of Drottning-Gatan (p. 328).
The *Humlegard (PI. E, 3), a park laid out in the 17th cent.,
has recentlyTjeen entirely remodelled by Director Medin, the City
Gardener of Stockholm, and transformed into a beautiful modern
pleasure-ground, with flower-beds and tropical plants. In it rises
the Riks-Bibliotek or National Library (PL E, 3 ; adm., .see p. 318),
designed by Dalil, and erected in 1870-76, containing upwards of
380,000 printed books and 11,000 MSS.
Its chief treasures are exhibited under glass in the 'Show Room
{Visnings-Sal; entr. to the right; adm., see p. 318; catalogue 50 6.). Case 1 :
Codex Avreus, a Latin translation of the Gospels in golden letters on red
and white parchment, written by Irish monks about 600 B.C. and acquired
at Madrid in 1690; Easter Calendar for the years 760-911; 'Loys roi de
France et Thibauz d'Arabie'', a French romance, MS. of the beginning of
the 12th cent. ; the Book of Marco Polo, French MS. of the 14th century. —
Case 2: Visigothic legal code in a Spanish translation of the 14th cent.;
Latin and other prayer-books of the 1.5th and early 16th centuries. —
Cases 3 & 4 ; MSS. of the 15-16th cent., including the 'Golden Bull' of Emp.
Charles IV. (copy of 1520-30). — A large case to the left contains the so-
called Gigas Librorum, which comprises the Bible and seven other MSS. of
the 9-13th centuries. In a frame above are the Revelation? of St. Birgitta
(p. Ixiv; 1360-67). — Case 5: Icelandic, Danish, and Norwegian MSS. of the
Quarters. STOCKHOLM. 49. Route. 331
13-14tli centuries. — Case 6: Oriental MSS. — Cases 7 &8: Swedish MSS.,
the oldest of about 1281. — Cases 9 & 10: Prayer-books, diplomas, and
the like in oinaniental wrilin';; (1500-1800) — Cases HIS; Karly printed
works, incluiiing the 'Speculum HumanR- Salvatii nis' (Itrecht, ca. 1470).
the Psalmi (Mayence, 1457), Cicero de Ofliciis (Mayence. 1466), German
Bible of 148i (in Ca.^e 13), Low-German Bible of 1494 and a fine example
of the Wittenberg Bible of 1576 (Case 15). — Cases 19-21: Book-bindings
of Italian (19), French (20), German. Dutch. English, Swedish (33, 24), and
other workmanship. — Cases 25-28: MSS. of Swedish royalties and other
eminent persons; plans of the Siege of Fredrikshald by Charles XII.
In the S.W. corner of the Humlegard is the pretty hronze group
'Farfadern' ( Grandfather and Grandson), by Per Hasselberg (d. 1894).
The finest part of the grounds, with a wonderfully luxuriant vege-
tation, lies behind the Library. In the middle stands a bronze Monu-
ment to Linnaus, erected in l<S8f), consisting of a colossal figure of
the great botanist, surrounded by allegorical statues of Zoology,
Medicine, and Agriculture, designed by Frithjof Kjellberg. On the
'Flora Hiir, a little to the N., rises a good statue, by Borjeson
(1872), of .R". W. Scheele (1742-86), the discoverer of oxygen, hy-
drofluoric acid, and tartaric acid.
The E. side of the Humlegard is skirted by Sture-Gataii
(p. 328). This quarter, extending to the broad Valhalla-Vag
(PI. C-G, 1-2), contains many attractive houses and villas. The
peculiarity of the site of Stockholm, mentioned at p. 320, is well
illustrated here.
III. THE NATIONAL MUSEUM.
At the S. end of Blasieholmen, the broad S.W. quay of whicli,
Hlasieliolnishamnen, is approached from Karl XII. 's Torg, rises the
*National Mpsenm (PI. F. 6), erected in 1850-06 from a design by
iftiilerot Bcrlm, a handsome edifice in the Renaissance style, with
round-arched Venetian windows and a portal of greenish Swedish
marble. Over the portal are medallion-reliefs of six famous Swedish
scholars and artists : Fogeiberg, the sculptor; Khronstrahl, the paint-
er; LinnjEus, the botanist; Tegne'r, the poet; Wallin, the writer of
hymns; Berzelins, the chemist; and statues of Nicod. Tessin, the
architect, and Sergei, the sculptor. In the vestibule are two bronze
groups: Art and Industrial Art by T. Lundherg. on the left, and
Artistic Research, by K. Eriksson, on the right.
The collections are: on the Ground Floor, the Historical Museum
and the Cabinet of Coins; on the First Floor, the Art-Industrial
Collections and antique and modern Sculptures; on the Second Floor,
the Picture Gallery and the Draifings and Engravings. Adm., see
p. 318; catalogues in each department, and at the entrance.
GROUND FLOOR. On entering the vestibule, where sticks and
umbrellas are given up on the left (2 6. each), we observe three
colossal statues of northern deities in marble by Fogeiberg: below
A
332 Route 49.
STOCKHOLM.
IJI. National
oil the right Odin, on the left Thor, and above them Baldur. Op-
posite the entrance is the —
"^Historical Museum, or Museum of Swedish Antiquities, a most
valuable collection of objects from the earliest times down to the
present day, founded in the 17th cent., and much extended by the
late director, Hr. B. E. Hildebrand. The prehistoric section rivals
that of the National Museum at Copenhagen (p. 414). The present
director is Dr. H. Hildebrand.
A glass-door leads into the Vestibule, where an English Catalogue
ly 0. Montelius may be purchased (2 kr.). We turn to Ihe left. The black
figures on white ground indicate the order in which the objects should be
examined.
Rooms I & II. Objects of the Stose Age CStenaldern^), a pre-
historic era when the use of metal was unknown, and when the most ne-
cessary implements were made of stone, bone, or wood. The chief objects
here are urrow-beads, axes, earthen vessels, and amber beads. The classi-
fied objects in the wall-cabinets and in one of the cases have been found
mostly in Sk§,ne. Tlic remaining cases contain objects, partly from ancient
timibs, found in other districts of Sweden. Among these are nint-implements,
fine battle-axes (Case 17), the contents of tombs with the bones of domestic
animals, and characteristic objects in slate from the northernmost districts
of Sweden. Room I also contains several models of tombs.
Room III. Objects of the Bkonze Peiuod ('■Brons&ldern'), when the
inhabitants of Sweden came for the first lime into contact with the more
civilised natives of Asia and S. Europe. Among the most noticeable are
a shield (No. 2A) and an Italic bronze vessel (No. 6) with embossed or-
namentation (found in Skane), gold cups and gold bracelets, a dagger
(20 A) found in West Gotland, other handsome daggers, swords, battle-
axes (No. 34 of unusual size), and vessels with rich ornament.
Objects of the Iron Age C-.leriialdern"). The earliest of these show
traces of Celtic infiucnee; a later group has been affected liy Roman
provincial culture, while more recent objects are akin to the Frankish
and Alemannic antiquities of W. Germany of the period during and after
the migrations. In the same room, beginning with Wall Case 59, is the
rich collection from the Island of Gotland, embracing a period of over
a thousand years. Cases 70& 71 show Roman influence ; Nos. 72-74 illustrate
the period of migration ; some of the brooches are highly characteristic.
Museum. STOCKHOLM. 49. Route. 333
The collection of silver ornaments (Caaes 97109) from this island is also
very rich. No. 85A. is a tombstone with pictures and runes (eight-legged
horse of Wotan, etc.). — Room III also contains objects of the earlier
iron age found on the mainland of Sweden, including four of Roman
origin (large bronze vase with inscription in Case 125, statuettes, glass
drinking-horn in Case 124, etc.), superb neck-rings with filigree ornamenta-
tion (139), and many other gold ornaments. We also observe the valuable
relics from the tombs of Vcndel (147-151), where several warriors were
found interred in their ships (comp. p. 13).
Room IV. Objects of the Later Ikon Age, from the mainland of Sweden.
1-6. Objects found at the Bjorko in Lake Malaren. where the oldest
Christian burial-place in Sweden was re-discovered 5 34-39. Valuable col-
lection of gold and silver ornaments. Also copies of a rock in Soderman-
laud, with Runic inscription and a design from the Siegfried Saga (54),
and of a large Runic stone near Rok in (istergotland , with the longest
Uunic inscription extant (53). — At the end of the room begins the —
Medieval Colleution C' Medeltiden' -^ 1C50 1523), objects of the 11th to
the beginning of the Kith century. In the same room: 70. Allar of gilded
copper plaques (middle of the Tith cent.); 71. Romanesque reliquary of
hammered copper; '72. Gotilet of agate mounted in gold, brought from
(iermany during the Thirty Years' War; 73. Embroidery from an altar-
frontal of the 12th century.
Room V. Ornaments, church -furniture, and vestments of the 14th,
15th, and beginning of 16th cent. : 53. Early-Gothic crucifix in copper-gilt;
•18. Mitre of the Bishop of Linkdping, with bead-embroidery and silver
plaques; 25. Golden pectoral set with precious stones. Here also are a
treasure buried at Dune in the 14th cent, (in Cases 19 & 20, in the centre,
in front of the window), and a votive figure of St. George in wood (1489),
from the Storkyrka at Stockholm (No. 77). Also, carved-wood and painted
altar-pieces, fonts, etc.
The Royal Cabinet of Coins (director. Dr. H. Hildebrand) occupies an
adjoining room (to the N.E.). Swedish medals are exposed to view in
glass-cases, but the coins are kept in presses.
Returning to the vestibule from Room V, we turn to the left to visit
Rooms VI and VII, which contain objects of the Modern Period ('■Ni/are
tideti') in five sections : 1523-1611, 1611-1654, 1654-1718, 1718-1809, and lSi)9
to the present time. The objects here, some of great value, include tapestry,
costumes, the insignia of Orders, gold and silver goblets (in Case 33, two
presented to Gustavus Adolphus at Nuremberg in 1631), carvings in ivory
(including a line lipergne designed by Rubens and formerly in his possession),
works in amber, tine glass, embroidery, and bridal crowns.
We now return to the staircase, the upper part of the walls of
which is adorned with paintings by Karl Larsson (_1896}, illustrat-
ing the history of art in Sweden from 1650 to 1800, and ascend the
marble stairs to the —
FIRST FLOOR, and by a door on the left enter the —
Ceramic Collection, — Room I. To the left of the entrance is
a large Moorish-Spanish vase (No. 1), of the same period (early
14th cent.) as the famous Alhambra vase at Granada and closely
resembling it; the bronze mounting is four centuries later. Cases
2 & 3 contain Moresco-Spanish and Italian majolica, chiefly pur-
chased by Nicod. Tessin the Younger in Italy at the end of the
17th century. The cases to the right, by the windows, contain the
Dahlgren Collection of snuff-boxes, porcelain, ivory carvings, and
trinkets in gold and silver. Above is a large decorative work in
glazed clay (peacocks and trees), by //. Kahler (1897). In the follow-
ing cases are French, Dutch, German, and Swedish porcelain,
334 Route 49.
STOCKHOLM.
HI, National
pottery from the Lower l^liiue, and Wedgwood ware. The inter-
vening smaller cases contain porcelain from the most famous
European factories, including those of Marieberg (p. 351) and
Rorstrand (p. 354).
Room U. Chinese and Japanese porcelain, including a speci-
ally line collection of the Japanese Chrysanthemum-Peony por-
celain, so called after its flower-patterns, and of Japanese 'craquele'
(with glazing purposely cracked), lacquered vases, and cups, plates,
etc., with Swedish coats-of-arms, executed in the 18th cent, in
China by orders of the Gotenburg East India Co.
_ -/ \^ .
f r- ' V,AittikSkulpt. » Cipa- suitU.. IViir.bVBiukSliiil.ptl^|
Room IIL In the middle are four cases with early German,
Bohemian, Venetian, Swedish, and modern glass. The cases contain
hammered and cast works in silver and gold, copper, brass, bronze,
and tin, of the 17-18th centuries. By the pillars is the Hahlgren
Collection of Watches. The cabinet contains Oriental pottery, metal-
work, carpets, etc.
Room IV. Antique vases, terracottas, and bronzes.
Room V. The Collection of Sculptures (catalogue 50 u.) begins
here. The Antiques, mainly purchased by Gustavus III. in Rome
(1784-85), are almost all works of the Roman imperial epoch and
freely restored. Among them are some modern forgeries. The gem
of the collection is *No. 1, a Sleeping Endymion, in Parian marble,
excavated in Hadrian's Villa at Tivoli in 1773, and purchased by
Gustavus III. No. 2. Athena; 3-12. Apollo Citharoedus and the
Muses; 45. Colossal bust of Venus ; 65. Bust of an Athenian, with
Greek inscription; 178. Fountain, with relief relating to Romulus
and Remus; 179. Uaudsouie Rhyton (drinking-horn) in marble ,
201-221. Greek tombstones; 228-23B. Roman tombstones. Hand-
some candelabra; magniticent large marble vase.
Museum. STOCKHOLM. 49. Route. 835
KooM VI, a ball with Casts (Egyptian , Assyrian, ancient
Greek, etc.). Fine view from the windows here and in the follow-
ing rooms. — To the right is Room VII. Section a: Antique terra-
cottas and glass. Section b; Egyptian Collection.
Room VIII. Modern Swedish Sculptures. — Nos. 357-372.
Johan Tobias Ser-jd (1740-1814): *357. Faun; *359. Psyche and
Cupid, his masterpiece; 362. Colossal bust of Gustavus 111. (to
whose court the sculptor was invited); also various sketches and
models. 373-376. Erik GustafGothe (1119-1838): 377-389. Jo?jan
NikLas Bystrdm(jllS'i-lSiS; a pupil of Sergei) ; 390, 391, 395,
396. Bengt Eriajul Foqelberg (il8Q-i8bi); 397. Carl GustafQvarn-
stTcim (1810-67); 769. Frithjof KjeUberg (1836-85); 398-401.
Johan Peter Motin (1814-73); 746, P. Hasselberg, 'Little Snow
White' ; several works by J. Borjeson (b. 1836), Chr. Eriksson, and
Verner Akerman. No. 403. Hylas, by JB/ssen the Elder, a Dane;
404. Magdalen, by Ant. Nouelll of Florence (d. 1662); 604 Copy
by .4. Giile of a colossal bust of Alexander von Humboldt by David
d'' Angers.
The small Room IX. contains bronze busts by C. Meunier (886.
•Docker'). .1. Rodin (943. Victor Hugo), W. Runeberg (814. A. Fryxell,
the Swedish hiatoriau), P. Hasselberg (884. E. Josephson, the
Swedish painter), and others. This room also contains medals and
plaquettes by Chaplain, Roty, Dupre, and otlier Frenchmen, and
hy the Swedes, A. and E. Lindberg. — Room X, also small, contains
book-bindings from the 15th cent, to the present day.
'I'lie following rooms are occupied by the Collection of Furniture
and Domestic Decoration.
Room XI. Ebony cabinets, tables, and chairs of Jtalian work-
manship (end of the 17tli cent.) ; ivory carvings ( Descent from the
Cross of the beginning of the 17th cent.); draught-boards and other
works in amber; tapestry of the 16th cent. ; embroidery; stained glass.
Room XII. Works in ivory and amber; glass; tapestry.
Room XIII is divided into six sections or cabinets, litted up in
the style of the J 6-17th centuries. No. 1. Bedroom, with Danish
and German wood-carvings ; 2. Library, with a small carved wooden
panel by Veit Stoss (beginning of the 16th cent.); 3. Dining Room
of the 17th cent., with a large Italian table and washing-stand of
the 16th cent. ; 4. Bedroom, with a large bed of the Nuremberg
family ImhofI' (17th cent.), in which Gustavus Adolphus is said
to have slept; 5. Room, with German wood- carvings; 6. Room,
with a large Dutch cabinet of the 17th cent., and a piece of Swedish
tapestry of 1689. By the end-wall, where the numbering begins,
is a Throne Canopy from Denmark (1586) ; below, a gorgeous Italian
table-cover of the 16th century.
Room XIV contains objects in the rococo style and forniture in
the 'Giistavian' (Louis XVJ.) style.
336 Route 49.
STOCKHOLM.
///. National
Another marble staircase ascends to the —
SECOND FLOOR, nearly the whole of which is occupied by
the picture-gallery. The staircase and the upper landing are adorned
with plaster casts after the antique, with a colossal relief of Lin-
naeus by Clir. Eriksson, and with busts oi John Ericsson (d. 1889;
inventor of the siTCW-propeiler), his brother Nils (p. 29j), P. H.
Ling (p. 329), Nordenskjold (p. 330), and other eminent Swedes.
The *Gallery of Ancient Masters was formed chiefly during
last century. The collection was greatly enriched by Queen Louisa
Ulrica, a sister of Frederick the Great, with the aid of Count Karl
G. Tessin, Swedish ambassador at Paris (1739-42), whose own col-
lection she purchased. Her son GustavusIIJ. followed her example.
From that period date in particular the interesting decorative paint-
ings of the French School, and also the best Netherlandish works.
The Italian pictures consist of the Martelli Collection, purchased
at Kome in 1798, and smaller collections purchased later. More
recently the gallery has been enriched by gifts from patriotic
societies and private donors.
Few of the German, Spanish, and Italian works are of much
value, but the French school of the 18th century is better re-
presented here than anywhere out of Paris, St. Petersburg, and
the Wallace Gallery at London (large works by Boucher, Desportea,
and Oudry, and cabinet-pieces by Chardin and Lancref). — Many
of the best Netherlands masters of the 17th cent, are also admirably
represented: Rembrandt by his 'Claudius Civilis', a 'Cook', and
several portraits ; Frans Hals by his 'Fiddler' ; Rubens by his two
copies from Titian ; and Snyders, Jordaens, Fyt, C. de Vos, Steen,
P. de Hooch, Wynants, Wouverman, Don, Ostade, Van Goyen,
J. van Ruysdael, and Van de Capelle by pictures of great merit;
also several rare masters, chiefly of historical value. — Small
Museum. STOCKHOLM. 49. Route. 337
catalogue 50 6. ; critical catalogue of the foreign masters, in
Swedish, by G. Oothe (1887), 3 kr. ; French illustrated edition
of the same (1900), 5 kr. ; illustrated catalogue of the Northern
masters, 3 kr. Each picture bears the name of its painter.
The entrance to the Dome Room (p. 842) from the staircase is
flanked by two antique columns brought from Italy by GustavusIII.
From this room we pass through a door on the right into a room
lighted from above, the first portion of which is hung with modern
paintings (p 341).
I. The Italian and Spanish Schools occupy the rest of this
room and the first (a) of the five adjoining cabinets.
.Saloon. Right side: Unknown Masters, 759- Still-life, 761. Lazzarone
with mandolin; 133. Lcandro Bassano^ Festival (if Cleopatra; 214. Early
Umhfian Master, The Magi. Left side: 11. Caravaggio{''.)^ Judith; Bibera,
1495. .St. Bartholomew, 1496. St. Paul the Hermit; below, 1494. Marco
Bicci, Jlonk in a Silvan landscape. — Cabinet: 81. Carlo Dolci, Christ
at the house of Simon the Pharisee; four sketches by 0. B. and D. Tiepolo,
one (188, by 0. B. Tiqyol i) for a composition in the Cappella Colleoni,
in Santa Maria Maggiore at Bergamo.
II. A room beyond the Italian saloon chiefly contains German
and Early Dutch Pictures (Tyske och Nederldndske Malare).
To the left of the entrance, 277-279. P. Molenaer, Victory of the Im-
perialisls over the Swedes at Nordlingen (1634). On the right vcall, 430.
Fr. Flotis, Sea-gods ; 1073. H. Baldung Grien, Mercury; 260, 261. B. Denner,
Portraits of an old man and old woman. Left wall, 370. Jan Brueghel,
Market (1609J ; 466. Qillis d^Hondecoeier, Orpheus ; 508. Jan Massys, Amor-
ous old man and Venus (1566); 1371. Sir Ant. More (?), Portrait (earlv
work, 1538); 1520. Dutch School of the Wth cent., Lute-player. Right wall,
257. L. Cranach the Younger, Charles V. and John Frederick of Saxony
hunting; Lucas Cranach the Elder, 258. The purchase, 1080. Lucretia
(1528), 255. Luther's father, no number, Luther and his bride. — Farther
on, 1334. Weitphalian School (ca. 1510), SS. Catharine and George.
III. We next reach the *Netherlandish School of the 16-
17th Centuries, in a saloon lighted from above and five cabinets.
Saloon. End-wall, to the left of the entrance: Bubens, 595 (school
piece), The four fathers of the church, 596. Susanna in the bath (school-
piece) ; above, 639. P. de Vos, Slag-hunt. — On the left side-wall: '599,
"600. Bubens, Sacrifice to Fertility, and Bacchanalian Scene, copied by
Rubens in 1605 from Titian's famous works at Home, now at JIadrid.
— *°578. Bembrandt , The conspiracy of the Batavians under Claudius
Civilis against the Romans, painted in 1662 for the Town Hall of Amster-
dam, and the master's large.st work after the Night Watch at Amster-
dam, although merely the centre of a composition five limes the size. —
'Frans Jlnh^'^Tha Fiddler (bought in 1901); 462. J7o66emo(?). Hut amid trees;
*1120. Judith L eyst e r (ini^il of Frans Hals), Flute-player; 441. /. van Goyen.
Dutch river-scene. Then follows a series of admirable portraits bv Bem-
brandt: 5!:5. The preacher J. Uitenbogaert tea. 1633), 581. Old man," '■*584.
'Portrait of his cook' (1651), *5S2. Old woman (1655), 1349. St. Peter fl632),
"583 His sister (?; 1(32). To the left of the last named, "443. J. van Goyen,
View of Dort (1655); 616. J. van Ruysdael. Fnrest path; 344. F. Bol, Portrait;
293. Dan. Schnltz (1620- afier 1686), Game-dealer; 1430. F. Bol, Lute-player;
512. G. Metsu, 'VS'oman weeping, with blaok.smith in the background. — End-
wall : 637. tSH)/rfec«, Still-life. — Side-wall: 762. e. de tVay«r (?), Equestrian
portrait of Philip IV. of .Spain; 488. ^ofrfaens. Adoration of the Shepherds
(1618); -433. Fyt, Dead game (1651); 6S9. Corn, de Ko*, Cavaliers at cards;
Wi.Rubem, TheGraccs; 303. J. d''Arthois, Large wooded Flemish landscape ;
Baedeker"s Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 22
338 Route 49. STOCKHOLM. 111. National
abjve, "1159. Jordaent, Kin^ Candaules tempting Gyges ; Rubent, 602. Two
naked boys with grapes, '606. Sampson slayin;i the lion (sketch); 409.
jln<(0«7)i/a<<«r (beginning of the 17th cent.), Portrait ; above, 343. P.Souiman,
The Evaniielist.s; 1486. F. Sni/ders, Fox as the guest of the Crane; above,
410. School of Van Uyck, Triumph of Cupid; 404. A. van Dyck, St. .lerome
with an eajjle and the lion, an early work quite in Eubens's manner.
I. Cabinet; "418. G. van den Eeckliout, Satyr and peasant; 421. A. van
Everdingen, Rocky shore; 58S. Moeyaerl, The angel leaving Tobias; '579.
Rembvandl, M. Anastasius in his cell (1631); at the sides, 672, 673. W.
van de Velde, Small sea-pieces; 1173. Dutch Master (17th cent.). Landscape.
— P. de Hooch, '473. Wcnian by a cradle, *471. The letter; 1386. P. Codde,
Domestic scene. — No number, Dirk Hals, Merry ccimpany.
II. Cabinet: 310. C. Bega, Mu.sic-lesson (1663) ; VQI. S.Ruysdael, Shep-
herd and shepherdess at a ruin (1642); 356. R. Brakenbuvgh, Dance (1699) ;
A. van Ostade, 548, 549. Small portraits, 551. Advocate at his study-table
(1664); "1117. Unknown Master, Old woman reading (165S); 621. /Sf. Ruysdael,
Dutch river-scene. — 1 184. Jan M. Molenaer, Peasant-wedding ; 1325. B. Cuyp,
Resurrection; G. Don, 393. Magdalen, 394. Portrait of himself (?). — 1394.
/*. van Ostade, Interior; 1339. Simon Verelst, Flowers; 552. A. van Ostade,
Tavern; 557. /. van Ostade, Youth; '550. A. van Ostade, Peasants at their
door (1660).
III. Cabinet: 677. C. Verhout, Sleeping pupil (1663); 658. Ochtervell,
Genre-piece; 1353 Q. van Brekehnkam, Wa'*hin? a head. — 647. J. Steen,
Card-players; 618. J. van Ruysdael, Seaside-village (an earlv work); 593.
Hcndrik M. Sorgh (?), Butcher. — 51U. G. Mefsu, Card-players"; *6S3. B. van
Vliet, Interior of St. I'rsula's at Delft; ''562 J. van de Capelle, Calm sea
(1649); 667. A. van de Velde, Young ,«hepherd (an early work; 1657); 326,
327, 1448, 1449. A. van Beyeren, Fish.
IV. Cabinet : 485. K. du .lardin. Girl milking a cow (1657) ; 701, 702.
J. Wouvevman, Summer, Winter ; eleven pictures by Ph. Wouverman, the
best Nos. 716, *709, and 714 (Coast-scene, Winter-scene. Bridge).
V. Cabinet: 10>4. F. de Moucheron, Landscape. — 1412, 1413. J. Latti-
chuys, Portraits; 483. Karel du Jardin, Italian landscape; 453, 1181. Dav,
de Heem, Still-life.
Passing throiigli tlie saloon , and turning to the left, we regain
the staircase, from which a doorway , opposite that of the picture
gallery, and also flanked with antique columns, leads to the —
Gravyr-Sal, containing the Collection of Engravings and
Drawings, the nucleus of which consists of works purchased at
Paris hy Count Carl G. Tessin (p. 336 ; Crozat Collection).
The Collection of Engravings consists of over 83,000 plates. The
specimens exhibited in the glass cases are changed from time to time. On
the walls are hung several large paintings by Swedish masters : 937, 938.
J. E. Bergh, Landscapes; '1396. 0. von Rosen. Nordenskjold (see p. 342);
'1001. (over the door), K. G. Pilo (1711-93), Coronation of Gustavus III.
in 17T1.
The Dka WINGS (c. 24,000), particularly those of the Netherlands Schools,
are also very valuable. We observe a large and admirable portrait by Lucas
van Leyden; about a dozen drawings by iJ«(6e)js (including studies for the
Rustic Dance and the portraits of Ferdinand and Francesco Gonzaga) ; nearly
as many by Van Dyck, of rare excellence (an English couple, Crucifixion
of St. Peter, C. van Geest, etc.); a series of very clever sketches hy Adr.
Brouwer, D. Tenters, and Adr. van Ostade; above all, many admirable and
important drawings by Rembrandt. These last are chiefly sketches for
pictures (Christ appearing to Mary, for his picture at Brunswick ; Sacrifice
of Manoah, at Dresden ; Abraham's Sacrifice, at St. Petersburg, etc.); also
a portrait of Titia van Ulenburgh, his sister-in-law (1639), and several
valuable studies.
There are also a number of Modern Drawings by G. Munthe, Carl
Larsson (Portrait of Strindberg, the poet; 1899), and others.
Mxiseum. STOCKHOLM. 49. Roulc. 339
IV. The ^'FiiimOH School of the 18th Ckntury is admirably
represented by many masterpieces, exhibited in a room liglitcd
from above and a cabinet.
Saloon (Fransk Sal). Francois Boucher (1703-70), the eminent painter
of pleasure-scenes (temp. Louis XV.), is represented by five pieces: *769.
Venus and tbe Graces bathing, 771. Leda and the swan, 773. 'Pense-t-il au
raisin' (1747), 768. Tuilet of Venus (1746), these on the riglit wall; '770.
Triumph of Galatea, perhaps the artist's masterpiece (1740), in the middle
of the left wall. — Francois Desportes (1661-1743), the painter of still-lifo
and hunting-scenes: on the right wall, 799, 798. Large decorative pieces;
end- wall, 801. The point; left wall, 800. Peaches in a silver dish and
dead game. — Among the eight pictures by Jean Baptiste Oudr;/ (1686-1755),
the animal-painter, the best are "867. Stag-hunt (end-wall) and 861. Fight
between a poodle and a bittern (left wall). — Seven landscapes (891-897)
by CI. Jos. Vcrnet (1714-89) are distributed throughout the room. — Other
notable works on the left wall: 883. H. Rigaud, Portrait of Charles XII.
in full armour ; 1326. Jouvenet, St. Bruno ; 845. Lancret, Woman skating ;
'884. //. Higaud, Portrait of Cardinal Fleury; 785. Chardin, Still-life; 854.
Le Moyne, Venus and Adonis (17'29) ; *846. Van Loo., Louis XV., full-length;
793. Noel Nic. Coypel, Judgment of Paris (1728); 1186. /. M. Natlier, The
Duchess of Orleans as Hebe; 813. O. Poussin, Landscape. — End-wall:
1314. iV. LargillUre, Count E. Sparre; 1313. A. /'ejrae, Portrait of Ch. Fred.
Sl)arrc (1744).
Cabinet: 778, etc., Chardin; 772. Fr. Boucher, The toilet (1746); *843,
■^844. Lancret, The swing. Blind-man's-buff; 874. Pater, The bathers ; 888.
H. Tarraval, Venus and Adonis.
The next four cabinets contain Flemish and Dutch paintings.
I. Cabinet (opposite the chief entrance ti the French Saloon). Four
sketches by Rubens: '607. The daughters of Cecrops finding Erichthonios,
608. Kslher before Abasuerus, 604. The Ma-ii, 603. Susanna in the bath (1614).
— On the left wall: 1183. J. d'Arthois, Landscape; *407. Unknown Master
(C. de Vos?), Drawing-room of Eubens; '653, 651. D. Tenters the Younger,
Four smokers at a table (about 1G4S), Tavern (1661). — 1146. /. van Ft,
640. Snydert, Still-life; 1393. D. Seghers, Flowers.
II. Cabinkt: 1292. M. van IJelmont, Rustic festival; 623. D. Ryckaert
the Yovnger, Rustic interior; 435. J. Fyt, Still-life.
III. ('ABiNKT(Dutch and early-Swedish pictures from a private bequest):
3l->5. P. van Asch. Landscape. — 442. Jan van Goyen, Halt at the farm; 713.
P. IVouverman. Sledge and rider; 444. J. van Goyen, Kiver-scene; 577. A.
Pynacker, Landscape. — 536. Picter Neeffs, Church-interior; 517. P. Moreelse^
Portrait; 486. Jan Fyl, Still-life.
IV. Cabinkt: 2'JO. C. Ruthart, Animal-piece. In the middle, 380. B>i-
strdm, Innocence (marble).
V. Passing through the French Saloon and the adjoining corridor,
wc reach four rooms dedicated to the Swedish Masters of the
17-18th Centuries, of whom the earliest to attain eminence was Dav.
Kllikcr ron Ehrenstrahl (1629-98), a native of Hamburg, trained in
the Netherlands and Italy. The 18th cent, produced a number of
Swedisli masters, most of whom, however, worked mainly in Paris or
other foreign parts. Among these were Nikl. Lafrensen (1698-1756 )
and Alex. Roslin (1710-93), by the latter of whom may be mentioned
No. 1010. Gustavus III. and his brothers (1771), a large group in the
last room (left), and No. 1556. The Jennings Family. In the same
room is No. 1032, by Wertmiiller, representing Marie Antoinette
and her children in the park of the Trianons (1785), presented by
the Queen to Gustavus III. Carl Frederik von Breda (1759-1818),-
22*
340 Route 49. STUCKHULM. J J I. National
who is here represented by several good portraits, was a pupil of
Sir Joshua Reynolds. The portrait of Bellman (p. 347; No. 1497)
is by E. Martin, who also studied in England. — We now return
and enter a large room to the right of the corridor, containing a por-
trait of Ehrenstrahl by himself (No. 949) and portraits of Swedish
kings and queens and also a show-case with miniatures of about
the year 1800.
Beyond this are two cahinets (PI. A & P) of Water Colours and
Pastels by modernSwedish masters, including KarlLarsson(h. 1853 ;
191. His wife and child; 233. His mother; *258-283. Scenes from
his home in Dalecarlia) and Anders Leon. Zorn. Also, 183. P. 8.
Kroger, Summer-evening on the beach of Skagen. The show-cases
contain miniatures of the 17th and 18th centuries. — In the ad-
joining cabinet we note; 1244. P. G. Wickenherg, Dutch winter-
scene; 956. K. J. Fahlcrantz, Castle of Kalmar by moonlight.
VI. The *Northern Masters of the 19th Century, whose works
are exhibited in a saloon lighted from above, six adjacent cabinets,
and the antechamber (Dome Room), are also for the most part products
of foreign schools. Among the earlier Swedish masters the land-
scape-painter ^ariJo/i.i^aWcran(2(1774- 1881) appeals most strongly
to modern taste. After 1850 Diisseldorf became the centre of a school
of Swedish and Norwegian painters, among the most familiar names
of which are Ad. Tidemand, Hans Gude (these two Norwegians,
p. 14), Bengt Nordenherg (1822-1902), F. 0. Fagerlin (b. 1825),
and K. H. d'Vnker (1828-66). Between 1860 and 1870 the reputa-
tion of the colourists attracted many Swedes to Munich and Paris,
whither J. K. Boklund (1817-80) and J. F. Hockert (1826-66) had
already shown the way, Alfr. Wahlberg (b. 1834), Georg von Rosen
(b. 1843), 6. Cederstrom (b. 1845), J. Kronherg (b. 1850), C. Q. Hell-
qvist (1851-90), and Nils Forsberg{h. 18421 are, perhaps, the best-
known of this group. J. E. Bergh (1828-80), the landscape-painter,
though he worked in Sweden from 1867 to his death, also belongs to
the same band. Since 1880 the prevailing influence has been that of
the Parisian Impressionists, among whose Swedish followers are
Hugo Salmson (1843-94), Aug. Hagborg (b 1852), Karl Skanb erg
(1850-83), A. L. Zorn (b. 1860), Karl Larsson (b. 1853), G. O.
Bjorck (b. 1860), Bruno Liljefors (b. 1860), E. Josephson (b. 1851),
Prince. Eugene of Sweden (b. 1865), Karl Nordstrom (b. 1865), and
Nils Kreuger (b. 1858). Most of these now reside in their native
country. Works of modern Norwegians, as well as those of Danish
masters, are but scantily represented here. The nationality of the
artists on our list is indicated by S., N., and D.
Saloon (Svensk Sal). Entrance-wall : *1154. G. von Rosen (S.), King
Eric XIV. signing a death-warrant, in the presence of his mistress Catherine
MS,nsdotter and Goran Persson. — Left side-wall : 1472. 0. P. U, Arborelius
(S.; b. 1842), Swedish lake; U7i. Hildegard Thorell (S. ; b. 1850), Maternal
joy; 1384. 0. Cederstrom (S.), Burial at Alsike (Upland); no number,
R. Tkegers/rom (S. ; b. 1857), -Stenhammer, the composer; 1123. A. Malm-
Museum. STOCKHOLM. 49. Route. B41
striim (S.; 18'29-I9lll), Fairy ring; '1381. /. Kronberg (S.), Saul and David;
■1602. Prince Eugene of Sweden. Summer-nisht ; 1482. O. 0. Bjiirck, Prini'e
Eutjfiie; K. W. W'llhllmsson (S. ; b. 1866), fish wivea iu Boliusliin; A'. F.
Jfurdstr;im(S; h. IS.W), 1484. Twilight, 1529. The Hogiidal on the island of
Tjiirn ; 1402. A'. Skaub,'i-ij (S. : lSiU-33), Rain at Venice. — End-wall : Portraits
by A. Zorn (the painter himself) and E. Jo^ephson (S.; h. 18,51). — Right
wall: Edvard Rosenberg (S. : b. 185'-), 'March evening; 1425. G. 0. Bjiirck,
Feeding cattle; -1138. F. G. Wickenberg (S. ; 1812-16). Dutch coast by
moonlight; J. Fr. Hockert, 967. Lapp interior, "1355. Burning of Stock-
holm Palace in 1697; 1383. G. roii Hosen, Prodigal Son: 1316. /. Kronberg.
Nymph; *1459 E. Jose.phson, A. 0.sterIind, the painter; 1293. O. von Bosen.
The painter's father at the age of seventy; 1405. O. 0. Bjdrck, Shop in
Venice; ""ilbb. A. Wahlberg, Landscape by moonlight.
I. Cabinet: 1356. L. H. Lindholm (S. ; 1819 51), Interior; 1028. /. W.
Wahlbom (S. ; 1810-58), Death of Gustavus Adolphus.
II. Camnkt: 999. B. yvrd^:nberg. Tithe- day in Skaue; 1207. /. Fi:
//(>c*«c;. Wedding-party in Lajiland ; 1215. <S'. M. Larsfon (S.; 1825-64), Sea-
piece; 1225. B. Nordenlierg, Dead sheep; 992. Amalia [.indeyren (S. ; 1814-91),
Peasant dance in Dalecarlia; 1030. .f. If. \Yalhmder Oi. : 1821-88), Scene from
B'llman's poems (p. 347).
III. Cabinet: 1025. A'. H. d'Unker, Third-class waiting-room; -1059.
G. Uydberg (S. ; b. 1835), Spring in Skune; Ferd. Jul. Fagerlin, -1204. On the
way to recovery, 95i. Fisher-boys smoking; 1320. A'. //. cJ'f'rtier, Pawnbroker.
■ IV. Cabinet: 1317. .1. G. Ilafstrom (S. ; b. 1841), Captured smuggler
i.n the W. coast of Sweden; 144(3. Jch. Aug. Malmstrom^ School-children
in a Swedish landscape; *1509. K. Skanberg, Venetian scene; 1525. Ail.
Fr. NordVng (S, ; 1840 68). Fishing-boats oft' the island of Hven.
V. Cabinet: 1453. Ax. Leon Bovg (S ; b. 1847), Elks in summer; 14(1;).
A'. S. Flodman (S. ; 1863-8S), Beach at Cimbrishamn ; W. Smilh (S. ; b. 1867 1,
1.539. Winter-scene, •1528. Italian smithv; 1370. K. A Lindman, Stockholm ;
•1536. P. fivedlund tS. ; b. 1859), Cana'l in Bruges ; 1493. Alfr. Bergslroiu
(S. ; b. 1859), Kl.btide; 143S. 0. P. U. Arborelius, Flock of goats in
Daleca-lia.
We now return through the 'Svensk Sal' and the Dome Room (p. 340)
to Saloon I (p. 337), to inspect the modern paintings there, chielly recent
acquisitions and foreign works: P. Ekslrbm, 1508. C^oast of N. Sweden,
"1426. Swedish landscape; N. Kreugt-r, 1483. Spring in Halland, March
evening; Eug. .Tansson (S. ; b. 1869), Swedish landscape; 15o4. E. Slenherg
(S. ; b."lS73), Interior in Dalecarlia; 1512. F. T. Werenskiold (N. ; b. 1855),
C.illet, the painter: 1514. Joh. 0. Rodlte (D. : b. 1856), Summer's eveninir;
1431. Fr. 'f/i(iuloic{ii. ; 1). 1847) Winter-scene; 1455. Kaut Larsen (I). ; b. 18(i5),
The painter's father; '1601. A. Simon (French; b, 1861), Causerie du soir;
1522. Otlo Sinding (N. ; b. 1842). Summer-night in the outer sker.ies olf the
Norwegian oast; 139S. EiUf Petersen (X.; b. 1852), Nocturne; 1352. A'. H.
Block (D.; 1834-80). Adoration of the Shepherds; 1254. K. A. Baade (N. ;
1803-79), Moonlight on the Norwegian coast. In the corner: •1517. Josi
Villegas (Spaniard; b. 1S48), Group of canons (from a larger worls). — We
then enter the adjacent cabinets.
VL Cabinet (modern works by foreign masters): '149-<. Fil. JAf/7U'<( French ;
1^3383), Portrait; E. K. Menard (Pr,), 1518. Sunset, 1564. River; 1516.
J. I'r. lUiffaein (Fr.; b. 1815), Fishing-boats; F. Lenbach (German), 151)0.
Ged u the architect, •1563 Dollinger, the 'Old Catholic' leader; 1519.
Ham Thoma (Ger.), Landscape.
'Ihe VII. Cabinet c ntains the Heilborn Collection, bequeathed in 1902,
and consisting of paintings of the so-called School of Fontainebleau (middle
of the I'th cent.), including examples of /. F. ifiHe< f Coast-scene), G. Vupre
(I'i'hing-boats in a storm, and two lanlscapes), J. B. C. Corot (Lands ape
wi h birche;), CVi. Jacqne. A. T. liibot. A. VoUon, and others.
VIII. Cabinet: 1128. Joh. Fr. Xik. Vermehren (D.; b. 1823), Chess-plave s ;
1408. Uenrik Hansen (I).; 1^21-BO), Council Chamber at Liibeck; 1377. Erik
Henningsen (D. ; b. 1835). '1 he Nvtorv at Copenhaiten; 1513. J. A. B. La Com-
(D.; b. 1837), March morning; 1359. V. J. Bosenitrund tl).; b. 18J8), Cafe in
Copenhagen; /'. H. Krui/er {U. ; b. 1851). Kdward Grieg, the composer,
342 Route 49. STOCKHOLM. ///. Skeppsholmen.
and his wife ; 1501. G. Achen (D. ; b. 1860), Portrait ; V. Johannten (D. ; b. 1851),
liirl in a dining-room. Also a bronze statuette of the philosopher S. Kierke-
gaard, by L. Hasselriis (D. ; b. 1844).
IX. Cabinet: 1277. A. riduwond Fortune-teller and Dalecarlian peasant-
woman ; K. Hansen {IX ,\\ b. 1841), 1285. Dealh of the firstborn, 1336. Con-
fronting a witness, 1267. Visit in the sseter; °13i3. H. Oude, Sandviks-Fjord
in Norway ; 1311. Eilif Petersen (N. : b. 1852), Scholar of the 16th cent. ;
1263, 1264. H. Gude, Sea-pieces; 1544. Fritz Thaulow, Moonlight-night in
Normandy. — For the last cabinet Caj, containing early pa'ntings, see p. 337.
We now return to the Dome Room, which contains all the especially
large pictures: "1363. 0. 0. Cede.rUrSm, Body of Charles XII. (p. 82), on
its way to Sweden (winter-scene); 1419. N. Forsberg (S. ; b. 1842), 'Death
of a Hero', in the uiililary hospital of Notre Dame at Paris in 1871. To
the right and left of the door : C. G. Hellqvist (S. ; 1851-90), Dealh of Sten
Sture the Younger on the ice of Lake Malaren and (1431) King Waldemar
Atterdag at Wisby (p. 363). Ihen, 1379. A. Hagborg (S. ; b. 1852), Beach in
Normandy; 1417. Ed. Rosenberg (S. ; b. 1858), Autumn-morning in Soder-
manland; 1397. J. F. Kvouthfn (S. ; b. 1858), A(|uatic plants; B. Liljefon.,
'1505. Sea-eagle, 1376. Foxes; 1367. Joh. Tirtn (S. ; li. 1853), Afler a snow-
storm in Lapland. Portraits of royal patrons of art and Swedish artists.
In the centre of the room: Psyche borne by three amoretti, a group in
bronze by A. de Vries, brought from Prague in 1648.
The space in front of the N,W. facade of the Museum is em-
bellished with bronze figures by J. Borjeson and T. Lundberg, and
with the *Baltespaniiare ('belt-duellists'), an admirable group in
bronze, the masterpiece of J. P. Molin, the Swedish sculptor (1859 ;
cast at Nuremberg in 1867). It represents one of those deadly old
Scandinavian duels in which the combatants were bound together
with their belts and fought out their battle with their knives. The
four reliefs on the pedestal, with their Runic inscriptions from the
Edda, represent the cause and the result of the combat.
r- ' From the S. end of the Blasieholm the iron Skeppsholms-Bro
\ leads to Skeppsholmen ( PI. F, G, 6, 7), an islet containing the
Karl- Johans- Kyrka a.ud. thechief military and naval depots of Stock-
I holm. The most conspicuous building is the Kanonier-Kasem, with
' its four corner-turrets and lofty gables. The island is intersected by
j fine avenues. Fine view of Staden from the W. bank (ferry). In front
j of the Sjokrigsskola, or Naval School, rises a monument in memory
I of the Polar Expedition conducted by Professor A. E. Nordenskjbld
I in 1878-80. On the E. bank of the Skeppsholm is a station for the
I steam-ferry to the Djurgard (No. 3, p. 317). Close by is a monument
I erected in 1890 to commemorate the naval victory gained by
"- Gustavus 111. over the Russians at Svensund in 1790 (p. 323).
T A wooden bridge connects the Skeppsholm with Kastellholmen
■ or Castle Island (PI. G, H, 7), also a favourite promenade. The
tower of the Citadel commands an admirable *View of the environs
(ascent of 94 steps, and then by an iron ladder of 8 steps more ;
apply to sailors on guard halfway up; fee 50 o.). On this island
also stands the pretty club-house of the Stockholm Skating Club
(Skridskokluhhen). On the shore, to the right, is a good restaurant
with garden. Many yachts may be seen on the water.
IV. .%dermalm. STOCKHOLM. 49. Rnute. 343
IV. SOjD^JiiiALM,
At the S. end of Staden lies the Siuss-Plan (PI. E, F, 8;
tramway-terminus, see p. 315), adjoined on the W. by the Korn-
hamns-Torg (p. 325) and on tiie S. by the Soderstrom, a discharge
of Lake Malaren, througli wliich small vessels pass by means of a
'Sluss' ('lock' or 'sluice'). Tliis channel is crossed by two iron
tedges, leading to the Sodernialm. Between the bridges lies an
opeii space called the KdH-Juhdns- Tory (station of the Sodermalm
tramway, p. 317), with an equestrian Statue of Charles XIV. John
(PL E, 8), by Fogelbery, erected by Oscar I. in 1854. The"'king
is represented in tJie costume of a Swedish marshal.
The extensive S. quarter of the city, called Sodermalm, occu-
pies a lofty and picturesque site, with streets following tlie natural
undulations of the rock, but is otherwise uninteresting. To the
E. of the bridge is the long quay known as the Stads(ja.rd, with the
station of the railway to the Saltsjobad (p. 349). To the W. is the
broad Slider- .Malar- Strand , a quay formed by blasting the rock.
On the Stadsgard is the *Katarj.na-Hissen (PL E, F, 8), or
steam-lift, opened in 1883, which carries us in less than a minute
to the top of the Siidermalm (118 ft. ; ascent 5 o., descent 3 6. ). Z^/
The belvedere at the top (adm. lUoT; small cafe) affords the best ^ ^-^
**ViEW' OF Stockholm and its environs. It embraces the old town ^-.
with its churches and the palace, Norrmalni with the dome of the
Adolf-Fredriks-Kyrka and the high tower of the Johanns-Kyrka,
Ostermalm, lUasieliolm with the National Museum, the tree-clad
Skeppsholm, and the Kastellholm. At our feet extends the Saltsjo,
enlivened with ships, among which dart small steam-launches in
all directions. To the right lies the Djiirgardsstad, backed by the
oaks of the Djurgard and rocky heights; to tlie left stretches Lake
Miilaren. The view has special charms at different hours.
An iron bridge, IBO yds. long, leads from the platform of the
Hissen to the Mosebackk-Torg (PL F, 9), on the N. side of which
are theSodra Teaier{V\.A'.); P7^, the garden of \l'>!ebacken(Vl.'l'd ;
F, 8), and a high water-tower. Tiu; Mosi b.K k( n Oirden aifords a
view similar to that from the Katarina-IIis-on (ailin. 10b., smor-
gasbord 50 6.). — ■ The lacgd Katarina-h'yrka (PL F, 9), built in
1656-70 by .lean lic la Valleo and restored in 1891, marks the spot
where the victims of the 'Stockholm Blood Bath' of 1520 were
burned. It is surrounded by a cemetery. To the S. of the church-
yard is a handsome national school. *-,-^
To the W. of the bridges crossing to Sodermalm, near the point
where Bellmans-Gatan joins the Sodcr- Malar -Strand (steam-
launch from the Kornhamns-Torg, p. 325), rises the *Maria-Hissen
(PL I), 8 j 92 ft. high ; 6 6.), another lift or elevator, built into the
rock, with a cafe-restaurant affording a fine view. — From the top
of the Maria-Hissen we proceed to Bellmans-Gatan, cross Horns-
H44 Route 49. STOCKHOLM. V. Kungsholmen.
Gatan (tramway No. 7, p. •^<17}, turn to the S.E., and reach the
Maria-Kyrka (PI. E, 8), a building of the 16th cent., restored in
1825. Or we may turn to the S.W. and reach the Adolf- Fredriks-
Torg (PI. D, 9), with a fountain-group by H. Nissler and a tasteful
bronze by Hasselberg.
V. KUNGSHOLMEN.
Kungsholmen , the W. suburb of Stockholm , offers little to
attract the ordinary tourist, but contains several large medical
institutions. The more southerly of the two tramway-lines follows
Handtve5,kabe-Gatan, in which, close to the Nya Kungsholms-Bro
(PI. C, 6), stand the Serafimer-iiazarett (to the right), founded in
1752 , and (left) the Karolinska Mediko - Kirurgiska Instltut, or
national college for the practical training of physicians, erected in
1811. Beyond the Royal Mint (1.) and the Vlrika-Eleonora-Kyrka
(r. ; with an altar-piece by Westin) is a large Lying-in Hospital
(PI. 10; A, 6), and a little farther on, also to the left, is the Military
Hospital [Qarnisons-Sjukhuset; PI. A, 6). Still farther on are the
infirmary of St. Goran, another hospital ( Stockholms Sjukhem), and
the extensive lunatic asylum of Conradsberg. In the matter of
hospitals and care for the sick Stockholm ranks high among the
capitals of Europe.
VI. DJURGARDEN.
Tkamway every 5 luin. fi-om the Norrmalms-Torg (P], E, i, 5; connect-
ing with the Ring Line, p. 315) via the Nybrohamn and the Strandvag,
then over the Djurgards-Bro (see below) to the AUmanna-Oriind (PI. H, I,
6, 7), in 12 minutes. Steam Launches, every '/« l"". from various piers
(p. 317).
*Djurgardeii (pron. joorgorn), a delightful park, of which
Stockholm is justly proud, with flue old oaks, pleasant villas, and
beautiful walks in every direction, occupies an island 2 M. long
and about 3/4 M. broad, separated from the mainland by the bay
called Djiirgdrdsbrunnsviken. It was laid out by Gustavus III.
and Charles XIV. John, having originally been a deer-park, as its
name imports. On the W. side of the island lies Djurgards-Staden,
the only suburb of Stockholm which*is.still almost entirely built
of timber.
The Djurgard is connected with the mainland, at the E. end of
the StrMidvag (p. 328), by the Djurgards-Bro (PI. H, 6), a stone
bridg^^f^lt in 1897 and adorned with figures from northern mytho-
logy. In the main thoroughfare, immediately to the right, rises the
handsome new building of the Northern Museum (p. 329), erected
from the plans of Prof. Clason in the style of the Swedish castles
of th&,16tli century. The materials are granite, sandstone, and
limestone.
From the main road a branch leads to the left to tlie T)jur~
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VI. DjuryarcUn. STOCKHOLM, 49. Route. 345
yards-Teatir (Fl. I, 5, 0) and the new main entrance to Skansen
(see below). In front of us is the "Biological Museum (PI. 1, (1;
adm., see p. J^18), a curious wooden building in the style of the
Norwegian 'Stavekirker' (see p. 29). Its large hall contains twelve
admirably arranged and lifelike groups, illustrating the habits of
Scandinavian birds and mammalia.
Farther on is tlie wide and short AUmdnna-Griind (tramway
and steam-launches, see pp. 315, 317), leading to the right. On the
left is Hasselbacken (Pi. 1, 6; p. 315), the largest and best of the
restaurants, with grounds affording fine views and containing the
remains of an oak ('■Bdlmans Ekeri) under which Bellman (see
p. 347) composed and sang some of his charming songs. Near this
is a statue of the poet by G. A. Nystrom. — • Beyond Hasselbacken
the road expands into the Djurgardsddtten (Fl. 1, 6, 7), an open
space bordered by the pleasure-resorts of Arena- Tealer, Alhanibru,
Novillu^ and Tiwoli. Adjoiiiny; the last is the entrance to the S. part
of Skansen (p. 34()).
In the W. part of the Djurgard lies **"Skanseii (PI. I, 5, G ; adm.,
see p. 319), with the 'Open Air Museum' Tounded in 1891 by
Dr. ArtuT Hazelius (d. 1901), a unique ethnological exhibition. The
em-liisure is about 70 acres in extent and affords, with its rocky
hills and lakes, its woods, its pastures, and its cultivated fields, an
admirable miniature reproduction of the natural features of Swe-
den. The fauna and flora of the country are comprehensively
illustrated. Examples of the human habitations of the different
ilistricts, most of them transferred hither bodily, and occupied by
peasants in the local costumes, complete the picture. The keepers
wear Swedish uniforms of the time of Charles XII,
From the entrance by the Djurgards-Teater we may either use
the inclined railway ( lOo.) to the left or ascend the broad path to
the right to Oscar JJ.'s Terrace, which commands a good view
f Reslaurant Sayaliden). Near the upper terminus of the railway is
the Hasjostapel, a reproduction of the Jeiutland steeple mentioned
at p. 388, Farther on we reach the Lapp Camp (Special Plan I ),
with winter and summer dwellings, and the Reindeer Enclosure
(PI. 2). Thence we proceed to the N., passing the Jmufliiiyduga.
to the Seal Basin (Sdldainm; PI. 4), beside which are the Tar
Bodiny Works (Tjdrdal). Adjaceut is a Stone Hut from S. Sweden ;
then Charcoal Burneri Huts, a Nying (camp-fire for woodmen),
and some large grind-stones and hand-mills (probably from the
Stone Age). In this vicinity are also the Foxes (PI. 5 & 6; with
the rare black fox) and the Lynxes (PI. 8). Farther on, we pass
the Gluttons (PI. 'li). the Wolves (PI. 22), and the Bears (PI. 19 & 20)
and reach the Bredablick Tower (p. 346). — To the S.E. of the
Lynx Cage, close to the wood, are the Morastuga from Mora (p. 376),
the interiorof which is quaintly fitted up, and the Orsasluya{^. 3il).
In front of the latter is a 'Maistang' (May-pole), round which tlie
346 Route 49. STOCKHOLM. VI. Djurgarden.
young people used to dance on May Day. Beyond the Morastuga
we reach the pens containing the Smaller Animals (PI. 9-17), such
as hares, pheasants, cranes, wood-grouse, wood -pigeons, otters,
ospreys, hawks, falcons, ravens, owls, and ptarmigan. Adjoining
these is the Royal Eagles' Aviary (PI. 18), to the N. of which is the
Malmberg, with huge specimens of N. minerals.
To the E. of the Eagles and S.E. of the Bears rises the *Breda-
blick (adm. 25 6.), a tower containing a good cafe' and collections of
clocks, guild-insignia, etc. The fine view from the upper platform
(250 ft.) embraces the whole of Stockholm, with its towers and
domes, the conspicuous Palace, the verdant Djurgard, and the bays
of the Saltsjo. — To the E. of the Bredablick is an exit near the
Horticultural Society's Garden (see below).
In the S.E. part of Skansen is the Laxbrostuga (10 o.), the house
of a Dalecarlian mine-owner and merchant, whose wife was Dutch
(end of the 17th cent.), to the E. of which is Svedenhorg's Paviljon,
containingrelicsof the philosopher and mystic Emanuel Swedenborg
(1689-1772). To the S. are the Oktopsgard, a large thatched farm-
house from Halland; the Hornbogastuga, from West Gotland (with
a Kvarn or mill); and the Hellestadstapel, a high bell-tower (view;
adm. 10(3.). Hard by is the Grave of Hazelius(p. 345). — From the
Oktopsgard we proceed to the N.W., passing the enclosures of the
Roes (PI. 25) and Elks (PI. 2(3) and obtaining a view of the KyrkhuU-
stuga (from Blekinge) and the small lakes in the middle of Skansen.
We then reach the old Bollndsstuga, an erection of the 16th cent,
brought from Helsingland and containing objects used in the cel-
ebration of 'Jul' (Yule, Christmas). The Fatbur, conspicuously
situated on an eminence to the W., is a reproduction of the store-
house of the manor of Bjorkvik in Ostergotland, one of the oldest
wooden buildings in Sweden. It contains a collection of northern
implements of husbandry and affords a fine view from the gallery.
Below the hill are a number of Dog Kennels (PI. 31), containing
Greenland and Jemtland dogs. Close by is an exit, which brings
us out behind Hasselbacken (p. 345). — The 8. part of the park,
which was extended totheDjurgardslatten(p. 345)in 1902, contains
enclosures for domestic animals, aviaries, and places of amusement.
Popular Dances and Spoets, generally accompanied by national mu^ic,
take place here almost every evening in summer. Populae Festivals on
a more extensive scale are celebrated on Walpurgis Eve and Walpuigis
Day (Apr. 30th, May Ist), on June 6tb, the anniversary of Gustavus Vasa's
accession, on St. John's Eve and Day ('Midsommerafton', June 23rd-24th),
on St. Lucy's Day (Dec. 13th), and at Christmas (Jul).
To the E. of Skansen (gate to the E. of the Bredablick) is the
large garden of the Trddgards-Fiirening or Horticultural Society. —
Farther on is Bosendal, a royal villa built by Charles XIV. John,
with orangeries and hot-houses. In front of the villa stands a huge
Porphyry Vase, 81/2 ft. high and 11 V2 ft- in diameter.
The S. and S.E. part of the Djurgard, with its fine oaks, green
Environs of Stockholm. HAGA. M. Route. 347
meadows, picturesque rocks, and views of the Saltsjo, affords the
most attractive walks. The general direction of the highroad may
be followed, but detours should be made in the paths to the right
and left. By diverging to the left at the E. end of Djurgardssliitten
(p. 346) we reach (6-7 min.) the Bellmansro Restaurant, near
■which stands a bronze bust of Karl Michael Bellman (1740-96),
the great improvisatore and the most genial and popular of Swed-
ish poets (by Bystrom, erected in 1829). On 26th July ('Bell-
mansdagen') crowds of the poet's admirers assemble here to recite
his poetry and extol his genius. — A little to the S. is a peninsula
called the Frisens-Park, commanding line views, a very popular
resort on Sunday afternoons in summer (singing and dancing;
refreshments, but no spirits). Farther on, about 1 M. from Has-
selbacken, is Manilla, a large asylum for the blind and the deaf
and dumb (shown Thursdays, 11-1 ; 'hiir ser man ilia, hiir hiir man
ilia, hiir talar man ilia', say the local wits). — Farther on are some
pleasant villas, including that of Parkudden, belonging to Prince
Cliarles.
50. Environs of Stockholm.
Several attractive excursions micde be made from Stockholm, bolh on
the long arm of the Baltic known as the SalltjS and on the lagoon of
Uiilareii, the waters of which meet at the capital. The former is the more
beautiful ; its rocky banks are higher and more picturesque than those
of Lake Malaren, which, however, excels it in historic interest. The bay
and lagoon may each be described as a ^skiirgSrd'' or archipelago of count-
less island.4, rocks, and reefs, separated by waterways in all directions;
and, near Stuckholm, the liank^; of both are enlivened with numerous
villas. The direct distance from Stockholm to the outermost rocks in the
lUltic is about 60 Kil. (371/2 M.), while the Jlahir extends inland from
Stockholm for a distance of 130 Kil. (81 M.) and, with its numerous rami-
fications, covers an area of about G50sii. M. At places it is 170 ft. deep.
Among the finest excursions from Stockholm are those to the
Vaxholm, Drottningholm, and Oripsholm. Steamers, etc., see Sveriges
Kommunikationer (and comp. p. 317).
Haga and Ulriksdal. — Tkamwat (No. 4, p. 316) from Stora
Badstuga-Gatan, at the corner of Tegners-Gatan (PI. C, 3; connecting
with the Ring Line) to ('/i br. : fare 15 o.) Haga Orindar, at the entrance
of the park (p. 348). Then walk through the park to the chateau and
thence to the station for the Steam Laukch, which reaches Ulriktdalen in
40 min. (fare 50 0.). The steam-launch starts from the Stallmdslareyard
(p. 348) on week-days at 8.30. 9.cO, 11.30, 3.30, 4 30, 5.30, 6.30. 7.30, and
O.30, returning from Uhiksdalen at 8, 9, 11, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8; on Sun.
every '/•; hr. in both directions.
We may also use the Djursholm electric railway (p. 348) to Slocltund,
and pmceed thence on foot, crossing the bridge to the S. of the railway
and turning to the right through the wood, to the (40-4S min.) chateau
of Ulriksdalen. — The railway- station of Jerfva (p. 355) is 1 M. from
Ulriksdalen. — Other ])oints of approach are the stations of Nortull (to
the S. of the park of Haga) and SlftUinatteregSrden-Albano (p. 348), on the
branch-railway which runs from the Central Station to (8 Kil., in ^5 min. ;
fares 30, 20 o.) Vartahamnen, on the Lilla Viirtan, the new harbour of
Stockholm.
348 Route 50. ULUIKSDAL. Environs
Beyond the Observatory (p. 330) the tramway follows Norrtulls-
Gatan to the NorrluU, on tlie ontskirts of the city (comp. PI. B, 2,
A, 2, 1), then passes nnder the Vartahamn railway, and reaches
the station of StaUmdstaregarden, whence an avenue of lime-trees
leads in 6-8 min. (10 niin. from the Norrtull) to the garden-restau-
rant of that name, at the S. end of the bay of Brunnsviken. Small
steamers run hence to Haga and Ulriksdalen (see p. 347).
The tramway-terminus is near the New Cemetery, opposite the
iron gate (Haga Grindar) of the park of Haga, on the right, whence
we reach the chateau in about 20 minutes. The charming but rather
neglected park is a favourite resort on Sun. for the tradesmen of
Stockholm. — The royal chateau oiTLaga. (Gvslaf's III. Paviljong),
an unpretending building, was built by Gustavus III. in 1786-88,
and was his favourite residence. It contains some decorative paint-
ing by Margiiiller and some furniture of the time of Gustavus (apply
to the 'Vaktmastare', in the farm-building opposite; fee 1 kr.). —
Higher up in the wood are the foundations of a much grander build-
ing begun by the same king, but never completed.
The Nya Kprkogarden, or iiew cemetery, a little beyond the gate (it
the Haga Park, contains some handsome monuments. On the highroad,
i/'j M. farther on, is the Crematorium. — The old Solna-Kyrka, to the S.W.
of the new cemetery, has a tower built of blocks of granite, the found-
ation of which is said to date from pagan days.
The station for the steam-launches lies to the N. of the chateau
of Haga. The vessel traverses the pretty Brunnsvik, threads the
strait of AlkUlan to the pier at Stocksand (station on the electric
railway, see p. 349), and steers across the bay of Edsviken to Ulriks-
(liilen (and Tegelhageu).
The royal chateau of Ulriksdal is situated a short distance to
the S. of the pier ; on the way thither we pass the 'Vaktmiistare's'
house (fee 1 kr.). The chateau was erected at the end of the
17th cent, by General Jacob de la Gardie, and afterwards came
into the possession of Prince Ulrik, a son of Charles XI. It is
partly furnished with old furniture, stained glass, and paintings,
but is not very interesting. The 'intarsia' doors of the drinking-
room were executed by Dutch artists for Chancellor Axel Oxen-
stjerna. The extensive park is noted for its fine avenues of lime-
trees. To the S. of the chateau is a chapel, erected by Scholander
in 1865 in the Dutch Renaissance style.
Djursholm. — Electric Railway in summer about 20 times a day
in '25-40 min. (fare 40 o., there and back 60 ii.). The cars start in Engel-
brekts-Oalan, at the S.W. angle of the Humlegard (PI. D, E, 3), a little
to the N. of a station of the King Tramway Line.
Small Steamer from Charles XII. 's Statue (PI. E, 5) thrice daily (4 times
on Sun.) past the S. side of the DjurgSrd, across the Lilla Vdrtan, past
the Vdrta Harbour (p. 317), through the, LindingS-Bro, and past the E. side
of the island of Tranholm (li/zhr.). — Beyond Djursholm the steamer goes
on to Bosij and Rydboholm.
The Urst stopping-place of the electric tramway is the Odra
Ipsa la
Geo^raph.Anstalt
of Stockholm. DJURSHOLM. 50. Koute. 'S4Q
Station (V\. D, 1}. At Albano (p. 347) we intersect the Vartahamn
railway. Farther on we pass the Experimental Station of the
Academy of Agriculture and Frescati. To the left, at the latter, is
the botanical garden of Bergiilund. Beyond the strait is the station
of Alkistan. The line then crosses the Stocksund, which connects
the bay of Ed^viken with the Lilla Vartan, and reaches the station
of Stocksund, with the power-house of the railway (to Ulriksdal,
see p. 347). The last intermediate stations are Morly and Oshy,
where the railway to Kimbo (p. 361) diverges.
Djursholm is a new colony of villas, sprung up on a manor of
this name extending along the hilly shore of the Stora Vartan. The
tramway halts at Sveavrigen. Auravagen, Restauranten (Hotel-
Kestaurant, at the station, P. 3 kr.), etc. About V3M. to the N.W.
is the old Chateau of the manor (restored). Djursholm itself offers
little of interest, but the steamer-trip is picturesque.
SaltSJOBADEN. — Kailwat hourly in '/i-'A ^^- C^ai'^ lo 6., return-
fare 1 kr.) from the Stadsgard, to which a steam-ferry plies every 'A hr.
from the Kungttrddgard (beside Charles XII. s Statue; comp. p. 323 and
PI. F, 8. E, 6). — Steamer thrice daily in IVs hr. (from Gustaf Ill.'a Statue
(p. 323); recommended for the return on account of the view of Stock-
holm as we approach.
The Railway threads a tunnel and runs through a picturesque
district of pine-wood and rock. After stopping at Fafangen and
Henrikfdal it threads a second tunnel. A little to the S. of stat.
Sickla is the popular garden-restaurant of Nackands. Dufnds, the
halfway station, lies at the W. end of the Liinnerstasund (sefe below).
Stations : Ldnnerstasund and Neglinje. All these stations contain
groups of villas, with bath-houses and boat-houses by the water-side.
The train crosses a narrow strait, and reaches the peninsula on which
are the station of Ringv'igen and the terminus at Saltsjobaden.
The Steamboat skirts the S. shore of the Djurgard island, com-
manding a beautiful retrospect of Stockholm, the last point of which
to disappear is the dome of the Katerina-Kyrka. On the S. bank
are ship-building yards and factories, and on both banks are
numerous attractive villas. At the mouth of the bay of Lilla Vartan
(p. 347) lie the islands of Fjaderholmame, with restaurants fre-
quented on Sundays. Steering to the riirht off the S. point of the
Lldingij, the steamboat doubles the projecting cliff of Kungshamn,
and enters the picturesque and narrow Skurusund, at the S. end
of which lies Dufni'is (railway-station, see above). The channel
now expands, but beyond the Lcinnerstasund it once more contracts,
forming the so-called Sodra Stciket. The broad Baggensfjdrd, whicli
■we next enter, heading S., is named in honour of the Swedish naval
hero, Jacob Bagge (d. 1577 as a prisoner in Denmark).
Saltsjobaden (comp. the accompanying Mapl, founded in 1892,
and now much frequented, lies in a bay of the Baggensfjard. Near
350 Route 50. VAXHOLM. Endrons
the station stands the palatial Grand Hotel, with about 100 rooma
(U. 3-6, B. 1, warm bath 11/2 l^r.), with a view of the bay. To the left
(^S.E.)is a bridge joining the mainland with a wooded island, crowned
by a ^Restaurant (D. 3 kr.), affording fine views. Good paths,
provided with benches, skirt the pine-woods round the bay. —
About 1/4 M. to the right (S.W.) of the Grand Hotel are the sea-baths
(26 6. ; bath-sheet 25 6., second towel 10 0., bathing-suit 10 6.). —
A sign-post at the station indicates the way to the Smdrgas-PavUjcng
('Pav.' on our Map).
On the Farftavik, a N.E. bay of the Baggensfjard , lies Gustafsberg,
with a large porcelain-factory, of which the soft 'Frittenporzellan', biscuit
w.Tre, and light-coloured fayence enjoy a considerable reputation. Steamers
ply between Gustafsherg and Stockholm (Gustav III.'s Statue, PI. E, F, 6)
eight times daily, in 11/2-2 hrs. (fare 75 o.).
The sea-bathing place of Salaro, with a hotel and numerous villas,
lies miire on the open sea, 20 Kil. to the S. of Saltajobaden, whence it is
reached by steamer thrice daily. — Steamers ply occasionally from Dalarfi
to Galo, Orno, Musko (with the harbour of Elfsnahben, where Gustavus
Adolphus embarked for Germany in 1630), and Uto, with iron-mines.
On one of the outermost islands of the Skargard lies Sandhamn, to
which a steamer plies daily from Saltsjobaden, via Stafsnds.
A branch-railway (P/t hr.), opened in 1902, connects Stockholm with
NynSshamn, a new sea-bathing resort 63 Kil. to the S. The line runs via
Jilfsjo (p. 312). Groups of villas have sprung up round some of the inter-
mediate stations, which are otherwise unimportant.
Vaxholm. — Steamboats, 10-12 times daily, most frequently from
the Sodra Blasieholmshamn (PI. F, 6) in l'/4-2 hrs. (fare V2-I kr.).
To the Lidingo, see p. 349. Numerous villas are seen. Beyond
the Halfkakssund we enter a broader basin. On the left lies the
Askrike Fjdrd. To the N. appearthe four towers of Herr von Landing-
hausen's chateau of Bogesund. The steamer then threads its way
between rocky islands until it stops beneath the guns of the fortress.
Vaxholm {Inn, very fair), on the E. coast of the Vaxo, a little
fishing-town, with 1600 inhab. and many country-houses, is a
favourite summer-resort from Stockholm.
The channel between the Vaxo and the Rindij is the only ap-
proach to .Stockholm navigable by large vessels. On a rocky islet
midway rises the Fortress of Vaxhotm, founded by Gustavus Vasa
and lately strengthened. On the Rindo opposite is another fortress,
partly hewn in the solid rock.
The voyage from Vaxholm to the N. to the sea-bathing resort of
Furusund (3 hrs. from Stockholm; 21/4 kr.) and to Norrtelje (p. 361; 4-5 hrs. ;
3 kr.) ia also recommended.
The excursions in the District of Lake Malaren are in-
teresting also.
*Drottningholm. — Steamboat 3-6 times daily in summer (Sun.
and holidays 12 time.s), from Oymnasii-Oranden, near the S. end of the
Biddarholm (by the Wallinaka Skolan, PI. 16, D 7) in »/i hr. (fare 50 6.,
return-fare 1 kr.).
As the steamer leaves, we enjoy a fine retrospect of Stockholm,
Vw/Kw^iiSv^.--^^;^^
\^Cl.tjy- ^u-r<u,jim- ■ ^V S
MaJictab 1 : 100.000 <^s.
.^..,..J^^
of Stockholm. DROTTNINGHOLM. 50. Route. 351
with the tower of the Klara-Kyrka and the dome of the Adolf-
Fredriks-Kyrka espei-ially prominent (both in Norrmalm). Farther
on we pass the Langholm on the left, with an extensive reform-
atory. To the right is the former porcelain-factory of Marieberg,
now used as barracks; on the height above is the lunatic asylum of
Konradsberg. All the islands are dotted with villas and gardens.
To the S. of Langholm is the Reimersholm with its large distillery.
Then, the islands of Lilla and Stara Essingen. On the left, the
islet of Ekensb erg ; on the mainland, the chateau of Hdgersten ; and
on the bank, Klubhen and other villas. A little farther on, the
Sigtuna and Upsala arm of Lake Malaren diverges to the N.W.
We steer between the Kersii on the right and the Fogelo on the
left, and soon reach the palace, situated a little to the S. of the
village of Drottningholm and the Kerso bridge. Near the landing-
place are a good cafe (left) and an unpretending restaurant.
The *Palace of Drottningholm, situated on the Lofo, derives
its namei ('Queens Island') from the queen of John III. , who
founded it at the end of the 16th cent. ; butthe present edifice was
built nearly a century later by Nicodemus Tessin and his son
(p. 321) by order of HedvigEleonora, widow of CharlesX. Gustavus.
The palace was afterwards adorned with pictures, valuable tapestry,
and other works of art by kings Adolphus Frederick, Gustavus III.,
and Oscar I. King Oscar II. usually resides here in summer.
Admission on application to the 'Vaktmastare' (fee 1 kr., for a party
50 0. each). — The gardens, partly laid out in the old French style,
are embellished with sculptures in bronze and marble by Adr. de
Vries and his pupils. They are adjoined by an extensive park, in
the S.W. part of which are a theatre and a maze of the time of
Gustavus III. Farther on, ^/^ M. to the S.W. of the palace, is the
Chinese Pagoda ('Kina Slott'), erected by Adolphus Frederick in
1770 as a surprise for his queen Louisa Ulrika (fee i/2"l ^^r-)-
Marikfrkd and Ghipsholm. — Steamku daily in 3V4 hrs. (fare
1'/-' kr., return 2' '2 kr. ; restaurant on board), but the return is made Ihe
s;iine day ('Lnstrcsor) only on Thnrs. and Sunday. The steamer.s start
from the Munkbrohanin, to the \V. of the railway-bridge connecting the
Riddei-holm with the Kott-Torg (PI. 1), 7). The voyage is somewhat
monotonous. The vi>:it to the chateau of Griji.'sholm takes l'/.!-2 hrs., an
that there is time to lunch either before or afterwards at the inn passed
on the way thither. — The Railwat from Stockholm t.) Mariefred (see
p. 311) takes 272-3V2 hrs. (fares 4 kr. 30, 2 kr. 90 6.; return, 6 kr. 50,
i kr. 30 6.).
The steamboat passes between the Fogelo (see above) and the
mainland. Then, on the right, the island of Kungshatt, so named
from a rock crowned with an iron hat, in memory of the tradition
that a Swedish king sprang with his horse from this rock into the
lake and escaped from his pursuers, leaving his hat behind him. The
villas on the bank gradually become fewer in number and finally
352 Route 50. MARIEFRED. Environs
cease. We enter a strait, 7 M. long, between the Munsb (right) and
the mainland. On the latter is the chSteau of Sturehof, and on
the island the church of Ekero with its steeple (1-1 1/4 hr. from
Stockholm). The channel contracts and the steamer enters the
narrow Bockholms'sund. To the right lies the island of Kaggeholm,
with a chateau huilt hy Field-Marshal Kagg. In 1/4 hr. more we
reach the Sodra Bjdrkfjfird, where the lake expands into a broad
basin. A little to the N. is the Bjorko, the ancient Birka, on
which a granite cross was erected in 1834 in memory of St. Ansgar,
who first preached Christianity here in 829. Farther to the N. is the
Adelso, and nearer lie the Kuro and the Rido. On the left lies the
mainland with the church of Enhorna, in front of which are several
islets. After passing Horns (^i/r^i/o t>rs. from Stockholm), whence
the chateau of Malsaker (p. 354) may be seen in the distance to the
right, we enter the Gripsholms-Vik, on the W. bank of which, not
visible from the steamer, is Rafsnas, where Gustavus Vasa received
tidings of the death of his father Eric in the massacre of 1520
(p. 324). On the S. bank of the bay is the chateau of Ndsby. Passing
the large brick-works oi Kalkudden, the steamer steers to the right
and enters the S.W. creek of the bay, on which are seen the red
houses and the church-tower of Mariefred, with the castle of Grips-
holm. The new castellated edifice to the left is a private villa.
Mariefred (Stadshus. with clean restaurant, midway between
the pier and the chateau), a little town of 1000 inhab., owes its
origin to the monastery of 'Pax Mariae' founded here at the end of
the 15th cent, by Sten Sture the Elder. On a promontory to the S.,
rising proudly from an environment of dark foliage, near the station
of the railway mentioned at p. 311, and 6-8 min. from the pier,
is the —
*Castle of Gripsholm, with its four red towers mirrored in the
Malar. At the end of the 14th cent, this site was occupied by a
castle of Bo Jonsson Grip ('the griffin', so named from the griffin in
his armorial bearings), the all-powerful minister of King Albert.
The present castle was built by Gustavus Vasa (1537), who at the
same time suppressed the monastery. In 1563-67 Vasa's son John,
who had been condemned to death by the Estates for rebellion, was
kept a prisoner here by his brother Eric XIV.; but having deposed
Eric in 1568 , he kept him, after he had become insane, confined
here from 1571 to 1573. In 1572 the castle became the property
of the young Duke of Sodermanland, afterwards Charles IX., and
after the death of Gustavus Adolphus his widow Maria Eleonora
resided here until 1640. At a later period, Hedvig Eleonora, the
widow of Charles X. Gustavus (d. itl-O), acquired the castle as
part of her jointure. Lastly the merry king Gustavus III. resided
here, and in 1781 erected a theatre, as in several other places, in
which some of his dramas were performed for the first time. The
of Stockholm. GUIPSHOLM. 50. Route. 353
restoration carried out in 18b9-l'J00 lias preserved all tlio exterior
ciiaracteristics of the castle built by Giistaviis Vasa, while the in-
terior illustrates the three most important eras in its history — the
'Vasa' period, the 'Jointure' period, and the 'Gustavian' period.
A collection (founded in the 17th cent.) of abont 1900 portraits of
prominent Swedes is now distributed among the various rooms.
Ikyiind the Outkr Cockt, which contains two huf;e bronze cannon
(the 'Boar' and the 'Sow'), captured at Ivangorud in 1581, we pass Ihroush
a ti.Tleway where tickets cl" admission are issued (Sun. 1'2. 30-2.30 p.m. 25 6.,
2.304 p.m. 10 o., Thurs. £0 6., other days, after application at li a.m. and
2 p.m. 1 kr., a party 50 o. each). To the left of the picturesque Inner
CoCRT, below the bartizan (Karnap), is the staircase to the interior of the
castle. The rooms are numbered. Catalogue in Swedish and English, 50 6.
First Floor. Beyond the Vestibule (Xo. 1) we enter the round Privy
Council Room (2), containing portraits of 35 privy councillors of the time
of Charles IX. Th^n follow the Apartments of Queen Hedvig Elecnora (3-7),
in an addition of the 17th cent., with furniture, carpets, and portraits of
the same period. Returning to the vestibule, we enter the Vasa Apartments
(8-14), almost entirely restored in the style of the I6th cent. (Swedish
Renaissance), but containing a few old tapestries, cabinets, etc. A genuine
relic of anti(iuity is Dnke C'/itirles's lioom (iO), a picturesque tower-chamber
uf the end of the 16th cent., with ornamental painting and panelling (coats-
of-arms and the initials C. D., those of Duke Charles of Sodermanland).
The next room (11), originally a Guard Room, with old mural paintings
(restored) and a fine wooden ceiling of 1604, contains a faithful portrait
of Gustavus Vasa and a beautiful little alabastar relief of Frederick II.
of Denmark. In Room 14 is the genealogical tree of Christian III. of
Denmark, on linen.
Second Floor. The Royal ApartmentSy occupying this floor, have
decorations and fittings chiefly of the end of the ISth cent., which, however,
have been restored. — Adjoining the Vestibule (15) is the round Saloon
of Outtavus III. (16), with portraits of that king (by Roslin) and his royal
contemporaries, and a fine view. This is adjoined by the Rooms of the
Queen (17-21) in the Gustavian' (or Louis XVI.) style, with git furniture.
Among the portraits are several by A. Pesne. The Bedroom (2U) is specially
))eautit'ul. — Farther on is the Throne Room (23), recently refitted in the
Vasa style. Passing through the I'r'ncess Rooms (14-26), tastefully decorated
in the Gustavian" style and containing youthful portraits of Marie Antoi-
nette and her sisters, and several Anterooms (27-29), we reach the Axutrl-
incnts of tl(S King. The Bedroom (30), hung with tapestry and portraits of
Gustavus Adolphus and his family, contains a slate-bed, some furniture
of the ITth cent., and Boule furniture. The unpopular Gustavus IV.
Adolphus, who wag imprisoned in this apartment, signed his abdication
on 29th March. I'^OO, on the table inlaid with ivory, tortoise-shell, and
mother-of-pearl. The Council Room (32) has a wooden ceiling and contains
a fine cabinet of the 17ih cent., Venetian mirrors, an iron camp-stool that
belonged to Gustavus Adolphus, portraits of Charles XI , Charles XII., etc.
In the Audience Room (33). used as a dining-room by Queen Hedvig Eleonora,
arc portraits of all the Swedish rulers from Gustavus Vasa (d. 15C0) to
Oscar I. (d. 1859). The fine Eenaiasance ceiling of the Attendants^ Room (3i)
dates from 1513.
Third Floor. To the right are Dnke Frederick Adolphus's Apartments (35),
with portraits of gentlemen and ladies of the court of Gustavus III. in
theatrical costumes, a stale lied, and other furniture of the 'Gustavian'
period. The Foreign Ualleru (63) Ui the left has j.ortraits of foreign princes
of the 16-18lh centuries. The door near the st.Mrcase opens on a vestibule
beyond which is the Tlieatre of Ouitavus III. (37), occupying the place of
the old private chapel and left entirely unchanged. Adjacent is the equip-
ment of a room from the Great Theatre of Stockholm (p. 327; now destr<jy-
ed), where it was known as 'Gustavus III.'s Study'. The three Quest
Chambers (38) are furnished in the 'Gustavian' style. Beyond them is a
Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 8lb Edit. 23
354 Route 50. STRENGNAS.
fienlry Gallery (39), off wh'ch open a cage-lik(! room, wrongly named the
Prison of Kric XIV. (40), ihi^ Hwcdish Qctllery (ii)., vvitli portraits oC eminent
Swede* of the 18tL and early 19lh cent., an Armoury (4'2), and other
rooms (43, 41) in the 'CTiistavian' style.
A picturesque liut inccjnvenient staircase descends hence to the inner
court, passing the Lower Armoury (45), which served as a state-prison in
the Vasa period and is now emi)ty. On the first floor, liefore (juitting the
castle, we hestow a glance upon the Crown Prince s Room (46), of Gustavus Ill's
period, and the Governor's Room (47).
A walk round the castle Is recommended.
Strbngnas. — Steamers, about 4 times daily, from the Munkbro-
hamn (PI. D, E, 7), also a few from the W. quay of the Riddarholm, in
Sy-i-i hrs. (fare 2V2 or IJ/2 kr.). — The Railway (see p. 311) also fakes
ca. 4 hrs. (fares 5 kr. 25, 3 kr. 5 o.).
Beyond the Siidra Bjiirlifiarden (p. 352) opens the broad hay of
rre.stfjarden, hounded on the W. hy the Selao, the largest island
in Lake Malaren. On the Selaci are the large estate and chateau of
Malsaker and the church oiYtler-Selad. After having passed through
the narrow KoUund between the Selaci and the mainland we observe
on the right the small Tynnelso, with an old chateau, and then
Tostero, opposite the S. end of which lies —
Strengnas (Stads-Hottl; Jemvdgs-Hotel), a town with 2000
inhab., which lias been rebuilt since a fire in 1871. Strengnas
became an episcopal see in 1291, and in ir)23 witnessed the election
of Gustavus Vasa to the throne of Sweden. The handsome Gothic
^Cathedral, consecrated in 1291, has been repeatedly injured by
lire and restored. The disproportionate thickness of the columns
is accounted for by the fact that the walls were considerably lowered
in 1551. We oberve the monuments of Sten Sture the Kldcr
(d. 1504), Charles IX. (d. 1609), and several antiquities. — The
old episcopal mansion of 1490, with picturesque gables and turrets,
in which the election of Gustavus Vasa took place, is now the
grammar-school (AUmdnna Laroverket). It still contains the epis-
copal library.
51. From Stockholm to XJpsala.
Qij Kil. Railway in I'/ii-S'/a hrs. (express fares 4 kr., 2 kr. 65 6.;
ordinary, 3 kr. 50, 2 kr. 35 (i, ; return-tickets are available for two days ;
no first class).
The train starts from the Central Station (p. 314) and skirts the
Klaravik, at the end of which, to the right, are the Atlas Raihcay
Carriage Works and the porcelain-factory of Ildrstrand, founded in
1727 (wares curious in form and bright in colouring). The first
stopping-place of the ordinary trains is Karlberg, situated on the
N. bank of the Karlshergsjo (the bay adjoining the Klaravik) and
possessing a large Chateau., erected at the beginning of the 17th cent,
and converted into a military school in 1792. The railway i^klrts
the park of the chateau. — Farther on, the line to Vartahamncn
ROSERSBERG. 57. Route. 355
(p. 3-17) lUvorges to the right, aiul tlic line to Vesteras to the left
(I{. 531. To the right is the church of Solna (p. 348). — 7 Kil.
Jcrfva, '20 mill, from the chateau of Ulriksdal (p. 348). Farther
on we observe Edsherg on the right, at the N. end of the Edsuik,
and Sollentunnholm on the Norrvik (with the church of Sollentuna
to the left). 19 Kil. liotebro; 24 Kil. Viisby.
3'2 Kil. Rosersberg, the station for the *Ch.\teau of Rosersberg
(Rosersbergs Slott), with its beautiful park, situated amid wood,
IY2 ^- to the W., on a bay of Lake Miilaren. The chateau, now a
school of gunnery for officers, contains a number of pictures and
sculptures and a library of 7000 vols., a catalogue of which was
written by Charles XIII. himself.
37 Kil. Mdrsta, whence a road leads to the E. to Sigtuna (8 Kil. ;
it turns to the left after 3 Kil. and afterwards crosses the Garnsvik ;
Sigtuna, see p. 356). 49 Kil. Knifita; 59 Kil. Bergsbrunna. Wc
now obtain a fine view of the plain of Upsala (Upsaln - Sldtten),
the cradle of Swedish culture, with the churches of Dnnmark and
Vaksaln (to the right).
About 5 Kil. fi-om Bevgsbvunna, ;ind 11 Kil. from Upsala (cab, see p. 357j,
lies Hommarby. with the C(iuntry-house of Linnaeus, in which he died
in n7tj, coiitainini; a .small memorial museum. — Near Hammarhy are
the celebrated Mora Stones CMorastvnav'' ). The ten stones now remain-
ing are enclosed in a stone building erected in 1770. It was here that
the newly elected kings swure to observe the laws uf the country, and
they then received an oath of allegiance from the Hagmiin'', or judges, in
the name of the people, who prayed that God might grant the king a long
life, with the reservation, 'if he be a good king'. After each ceremony of
the kind the name of the king was inscribed on one of the stones.
The train crosses the Sdpaa, an affluent of the Fyrisci. The large
white building to the left is a District Lunatic Asylum. The
houses of (_()() Kil.) Upsala (p. 357) now appear to the left.
The Stkamek Joukney to Upsala may be recommended to travellers
of leisure (90 Kil., in about 6 hrs.). The boat starts daily from tlic W.
side of Riddarholmen (PI. 1>, 7; fare 2 kr.). — Another boat, leaving the
Miilarehauin (PI. I), 7), plies to Sigtnna (3 hrs.; IV2 kr.) and Orsundsbro.
Though much longer, the voyage to Upsala by steamer is more
interesting than the railway-journey. The first part of it has al-
ready been described (p. 350). We steer to the right into an arm
of the Millar which separates the Kerso from the mainland. By
the Nockeby Bridge we see the palace of Drottningholm on the left
(p. 351). This arm of the lake resembles a river, the left bank of
which is formed by the Lofij further on. On the right, opposite
the N. end of the latter, lies the estate of He.<sdby. After steering
through a group of islands we enter another broad expanse. On
the left is the island of SvarUo, with a dilapidated chateau, once
a monastery. On the right lies the estate of Riddenvik on the main-
land. To the left opens the Ndsfjdrd. We now steer to the N. into a
part of the lake called Gdrvdln, where, on the right, lies the estate
of Goriidln, and on the left that of Lennartsnds.
13*
356 Route 51. 81GTUNA. From Slorkholm
About 2 brs. from >Stockliolra wc reach tlic narrow t^trait of Stilkct,
an island in which, callcil Almurc-Stak, contains fragments of the
ancient castle of that name , which was taken by Sten Sture the
lounger from the rebellious Bishop Gustaf TroUe of Upsala and
destroyed in 1517.
Farther on we pass the island of Munkholm on the left, beyond
which is the entrance to an arm of the lake called Skarfven. On
the right lies the estate of Runsa. In a bay to the right, but not
visible from the steamer, is the chateau of Roser'<berg (p. 365), at
which only the Sigtuna steamer calls.
In a bay to the right we observe the picturesque chateau of
Stenlnge, once the property of Marshal von Fersen, who was murdered
by the populace at Stockholm in 1812 (p. 325). The park contains
a monument to his memory. We now enter the Sigtuna-Fjdrd, in
which, to the right, at the entrance to the long Oarnsvik, a creek
running inland to the N., lies —
Sigtuna ('<S;(7(una Hotel)^ prettily situated, once one of the largest
and finest towns in Sweden, but now containing 550 inhab. only.
It was founded at the beginning of the 11th cent, by King Olaf
Eriksson, and was destroyed by the Esthonians in 1187. The ruins
of the churches of St. Peter, St. Lawrence , St. Olaf, and St. Ni-
cJiolas bear witness to the ancient importance of the place. . — To
Marsta, 11 Kil., seep. 355.
Our vessel steers to the N.W. through the narrow arm of the lake,
which expands at places. On the left is SignUdsberg, the site of a
still more ancient town of Sigtuna (For-Sigtuna or Forn- Sigtuna),
the scene of the saga of Hagbart and Signe. On the same bank lies
Hatunaholm, with the church of Hatuna, where Dukes Eric and
Waldemar took their brother King Birger prisoner in 1306 and
compelled him to grant them extensive privileges. A few years
laterBirger revenged himself by inviting them to Nykoping, where
he caused them to be thrown into prison and starved to death , an
act of barbarity which cost him his throne (comp. p. Ivi).
Beyond the Erikssund the lake expands into the Skofjard, on
the left side of which rises the —
Skokloster (properly /S/co^fciosfer, 'forest monastery'; station), a
large chateau, square in form, enclosing a court in the interior,
with four towers at the corners roofed with copper. It occupies
the site of a Dominican, afterwards Cistercian, monastery, sup-
pressed by Gustavus Vasa, and presented by Gustavus Adolphus to
Marshal Herman Wrangel, whose son, Charles Gustavus Wrangel,
erected the chateau in the style of that of Aschaffenburg in Ger-
many and filled it with treasures captured during the Thirty Years'
"War. After his death it passed into the possession of Count Brahe,
his son-in-law, to whose family it still belongs.
The Interior, still unfinished, forms a kind of museum of art and
antiquities. The handsome Vestibule is borne by eight Ionic columns
\n>,
v^?l^B^"
1 Anatominim
2 Carolina Hediriva.
Z Oeoloifisk. JtiA'titutwn
+ Somhron .
5 ffrkebiskapshusel
6 CW^j:
7 GuxtavianiLm
8 Ts7iwe/sdro/i
9 ff.St.3-a-
10 Bof.Jmi
11 J/nseian far nord.
Fornsalier
D.*. j If atlons lius en :
,B.4. I ^- OestrOittEelsznffe
C.3. 12a.melorjis
C.S. ' 13 Ostgota .
B.t. I 14 Smdlands
C.3. 13 StofJcholms
S.Z. 16 TTpJands
B.t. 17 Testgota
D.t. 18 Vestm.oJ)a!a
D.t. I 19 IXorrloJids
C.3. 1 'SS-a.Sodermajiland
ZZPosOiuset
23 RccpieUeajiiim
24 Saninaj-iiUft
25 S'.'JirikskUUa
2G Slivltecmum
27 SluttskiiVnit
2i Studslwtrllct
29 Telegriifini
B.S.'SO Trcfald .k-vrka
D 4
C.4
C.4
C 3
C*
C*
C.4
C.S
B.C. 4
C.-l-.l ZVHyi VTdrer.ntetslui-ift K.S.4
-B.3.1 32/'>;i-.«flfoy?V-«/« C*
to Vpsali. UPSALA. r>l. Route. 357
of white marble, presented by Queen Christina. The Kusjgssal has a
richly decnrated stuceo-neiling. The staircases and vestibules are em-
liellished with numerous portraits, pictures by Ehreustrald and others, and
rich tapestry. Among the portraits is one of Gustavus Adolphus, with
Heidelberg in the background, painted si.^c weeic.s before his death. —
The LiBRARV contains 3Ct,000 vols, and many JISS. — The Armodkt con-
tains 12C0 guns of various kinds ; also swords, daggers, and bows, the
sword of Ziska, the famous Hussite leader, the sword used by the exe-
cutioner at the 'Blood Bath of Linkoping' (p. 308j, and the shield of
Emp. Charles V., attributed to B,;n»e>iuio Cellini, and captured at Prague
in 1618.
The park of the chateau contains a monument to Count Magnus
Hrahe (d. 1844), a friend of King Charles XIV. John. The Gothic
Skokyrka, formerly the church of the monastery, restored in the
17th cent, by Marshal Herman Wrangel, contains the burial-vault
of the Marshal and a pulpit captured at Oliva, near Dantsie, in the
Thirty Years' War. [\Yc may row from Skokloster in 1 hr, to Alsike,
and drive thence to (7 Kil.) Knifsta railway-station (p. 355).]
Beyond Skokloster we steer through the Siafsund into the
Ekoin. On the right are the church of Alsike and the estate of
Krusenherg. Then, on the left, the churches of Aker, Dulby, and
Nas. At the N.E. end of the Ekoln, at the mouth of the small
Fyristi, lie Kunytihamn, where the kings of Upsala once kept their
fleet, and Flottsund. The steamer ascends the Fyrlsa to Upsala in
about 5l) min. more. On the left, nearly halfway up, is the agri-
cultural school oiVltuna. Of Upsala wesee nothing till quite close
to the town.
Upsala. — R.\u.w.\v Station on the K. side of the town (PI. D, E.
3, 1). .Steamiioats stop opposite the Slrompaflerre (PI, D, 4, 5).
Hotels. '.Staus-Hotkl (PI. 28; C, 4), Drottning-Gatan 9, R. 2'/-i kr.,
with good cafe-restaurant. — Hotel Svea (PI. !(.)•, D, 4), Kungs-Gatan,
near the railway-station ; St. Erik (PI. 9; D, 4), Bangards-Gatan, also near
the rail, station, witli rooms only, verv fair. „
Restaurants, flilhi (PI. tj; C, 3), in Vestra Agalan, to the E. of the
Cathedral : "Flitslret (i.e. 'hole of a beehive'; PI. 1), 4), a favourite summer-
resort of the students, with music in the evening ('sniorgSsbord' 75 o.)-
Booksellers. Akndemiska ftok/ia'ideln, Dombro; Liiiideqvistska Bok-
/lanJfln, Drottning-Gatan and (Jstra Agatan.
Cabs (Akare). Per drive 75 (>., per hr. for 1 pers. I'/i. for 2 pei-s.
I'/'J kr. ; with two horses 1' i kr. per drive, 2 kr. per hr. (1-4 pers.). To
Gamla Upsala (p. 361) or Vaksala (p. 355) 1 kr. 30 or 1 kr. 50 ii., with
two horses 2 kr. 3U li. (there and back a half more). To Hammavby
(p. 355) 5 kr., with two horses 8 kr. (there and back).
Post Office (PI. 22; D, 4), Osira Agatan 35. — Telegraph Office (PI. 29;
< J), Svartbiicks-Gatan 2 (1st floor).
Upsatit ('the lofty halls'), a famous university-town, and resi-
dence of the archbishop, the 'landshofding', and other ofUcials, with
23,000 inhab.. lies in a fertile plain on both banks of the FyrisCi,
which is crossed by seven bridges. The modern part of the town
lies on the flat K. bank, while the older quarters are on the sloping
W. bank. Upsala was formerly called 0,s/;(/-/lr().< (p. 3(j?), and
fonued the harbour of the kings of Sweden wlieii tliey resided at
(iainla Upsala. In I'iTd the archiepiscopal see (p. Iv) was trans-
358 Route 5 J
UPSALA.
Cathedral.
ferred from Gamla Upsala to tlie present town, while the kings
chose Stockholm as their residence. As Trondhjem in Norway,
Upsala is the historical centre of Sweden. It was also once the
great stronghold of paganism (comp. p. 361). The University was
founded by Arclihhhop Jacob Utf.ison in 1477 and refounded by
decree of the Reformation Assembly in 1593, but did not become
of great importance until Gustavus Adolphus endowed it with the
whole of his private landed property.
The *Cathedral {VI. C, 3), situated on a height rising above the
Fyrisa, in the N. part of the city, was erected in 1230-1435, and
consists of a nave, aisles flanked with chapels, a slightly project-
ing transept, a choir, and an ambulatory with a fringe of chapels.
GiaJ'kQi
^r^-_ : -: ▼
1 DdhncL
6 Jaqellonskcu
.Sodia
1 C-Mciner
7 Stiae,
puitalen
•i'TI'arn.s-texiZ.
8 Fin.?ta,
•V Ma.ienbachy
a SU/ibock,
5 CQ-tlaLbor^
lOB/Ake.
11 Slx-ytte^
12 GJiicner
13 Oj:e7ist]rsrneu
li De Gear
15 Morio
In its plan and execution the church resembles the French cath-
edrals, due allowance being inade for the greater simplicity neces-
sitated by the use of brick instead of stone. The tirst architect
was, indeed, Etiennc de Bonneuil, 'tailleur de pierre', one of the
assistant-builders of Notre Dame at Paris, who was doubtless
employed through the influence of Swedish students at the uni-
versity of Paris. The contract was concluded at Paris on 8th Sept.,
1287. The building advanced very slowly. In 1310 an altar was
consecrated in the E. part of the church, and the whole cathedral
was dedicated in 1435. A new vaulting was added five years later.
The restoration of the edifice, towards which government, the city,
and private individuals contributed about 1 million kr., was com-
pleted by E. V. Lunglet in 1883-93 from the designs of F.Zcltervidl.
The towers are 388 ft. high; the slender copper-sheathed spires
and the tleches are entirely new. The finest portal is that on the S.,
whiili was originally built about 1300 and is adorned with elaborate
carving, restored by Tli. Lundberg.
University. UPS ALA. 51. Route. 359
The Intkrior ('Klockare' at the adjoining '•Domti-apphus': 1-3 pers.
1 kr., 4-G per?. 2 kr.), 120 yds. lona;, 45 yds. broad, and 1LI8 ft. high, rests
on 26 pillars. The paintings on the wall and vaults of the nave (dec-
orative), transept (Old Test.nment scenes), and choir (New Testament
scene.s, etc.) are all by A. Lindegren. The stained-glass windows were
executed by R. Calhnander from Lindeyren's designs. The ornate pulpit,
de.signed by Nic. Tessin (p. 321), is a masterpiece of the baroque style.
The large organ and triplicate Gothic altar are modern, from the designs
i)( Zettervall. The silver candelabrum (1648) in the choir weighs 52V2 lbs.
liehind the altar, guarded by an iron cage, is the silver sarcophagus of
King Eric IX., the patron-saint of .Sweden, who was killed here in IICO
by the Danes. The so-called crown of King; Eric, hanging above, is of
silver-gilt and weighs 20 lbs. A simple tombstone commemorates Ahp.
i'l/sson (p. 358), the founder of the university.
The Chapels nf the Ambulatory, as well as those of the aisles, have
been fitted up as burial-chapels since the Reformation. The capitals of
the columns should be noticed. At the back of the choir is the ■'Bdrial
Chapel of Gustavus Vasa ('Gustavianska Koret'; d. 1560), with modern
stained glass by Way, containing the king's recumbent figure, between
those of Catherine of Lauenburg and Margaret/ia Lejonhu/vucl, his first two
wives, and also the separate tomb of hjs third wife, Karin Stenhock. Ou
the walls are two large and five small frescoes by Sandberg (1837), depict-
ing scenes from Vasa's life, and the words of bis last address to the
Kstates in 1560. — The Chapel of Katarwa Jaoellosica, on the N. side
of the ambulatory, contains the monument of that queen, wife of John III.,
erected by her sou Sigi.'^miind in 1583, and also the marble Monument of
John III. (d. 1592), which was executed in Italy, but wrecked on the
voyage from Leghorn to Sweden, and taken to Dantsic, where it remained
till reclaimed by Gustavus III. in 1782. — The other chapels around the
choir belong to the illustrious families of Slure. Brahe-Finsta, Horn, Oxen-
sljerna, and De O'eer (with mural paintings of the 16th century).
The similar chapels in the Nave, beginning at the transept, belong as
follows: on the N., to the families of Gyllenbonj , Masenbach , ]Varnsted/,
Carl Banir (with the tomb of Linnieus, by Sergei), and Dohna ; i u the S.,
to the families of Gustav Bauer, Skytle (with the ti mb of Johan ."r^kjlte,
chancellor of the university under Ciustavus Adolpbus), Bjelke, and Stenhock.
The last contains the tombs of Archbp. C. F. Mennander (d. 178'J), by
Angelini of Rome, and Archbp. rivebilius.
The Sacristy, in the N. transept, contains curiosities and precious re-
lics: chalice and paten of 15U (German work); crowns, sceptre, and orb
of John III. and Catherine Jagellonica; crowns of Gustavus Vasa and his
consort; chalice, altar-cross, and candelabra of the 17th and 18th cent.;
archiepiscopal crozier of 1164.
To the N. of the cathedral is the Eriks Kaila (PI. 25 j, or Spring
of St. Eric, which burst forth on the spot where the saint was killed.
Opposite the W. fai;ade of the cathedral stands tlie Umtuvianum
(H. T; B, 3), tho oldest of the present buildings of the nniveisity.
founded by Gustavus Adolphus and containing the Zoological In-
stitute. The gardens, which extend from the Gustavianuni to tlie
eminence crowned by the new University, are embellished with a
statue (by P.orjeson) of I'.rik Gustaf Geijer, tlie historian and poet.
On one side of the lofty pedestal is a Swedish luaiden with a lyre.
The new University Building (PI. 31; D, ;], -i), erected in
1877-80 by //. T.Holnujren in tlx^ Ivcnaissance style, consists of red
brick and grey sandstone, with ornamentation in polished granite.
On tlie central block are allegoiical statues of tlie four faculties and
the initials of Swcdisii iiioniinlis who have benetlted the institution.
360 Route 51. UPSALA. Slott.
Intejiiou ('Vaklniiiptave' '/-'l I*'")- 1° tbe hall are a marble bust of
Cbarles X. and a plaster bust of Gustavus Adolphus. The handsome stair-
case has pillars and steps of green marble. At the top of the staiicase are
casts from the antique and Bystrotn'i group of Juno and the young Hercules.
The chancellor's room contains a magnificent casket presented to Gustavus
Adolphus by the city of Augsburg in 1632. Other rooms contain portraits
of statesmen and professors; the Aula is beautifully decorated in blue and
'^old. — On the groundfloor is the lar^e 'Stora Consistoriet', or senate-hall,
with portraits of the Swedish kings since Gustavus Vasa.
The university has now over 50 professors, 70 lecturers and tutors,
and about 1800 students, who wear white velvet caps with a black border.
Each student is bound to attach himself to one of the thirteen 'nations',
most of which, like the colleges of Oxford and Cambridge, have their
own buildings, presided over by curators, inspectors, and a committee of
management. The members are divided into seniores, juniores, and re-
centiores. One of the chief 'national' recreations is quartet-singing.
To the S. of tlie cathedral is the Trefaldighets-Kyrka (PI. 30;
B, 0,4), or 7>omZ/i:,i/rA;a ('church of the Trinity', or 'of the peasants'),
older than the cathedral, but uninteresting. Farther on is a prom-
enade called Odins Lund (PI. 21 ; B, 4), with an ohelisk in
memory of Gustavus Adolphus. Beyond it we reach the —
University Library (PI. 2 ; B. 4), containing over 300,000 printed
volumes and 12,500 MSS. TLe'building, restored in 1838-92, was
built in 1819-41 on the site of the Academia Carolina (founded by
Charles IX.), and is therefore known as the Carolina liedivha.
The 'Visnings-.Sar, or exhibition - room , on the groundfloor is open
to visitors daily throughout the ye.ir, 10-2, on application to the 'Vakt-
miistare' (V2-I kr.). The chief treasure is the famous "Codex Argenteus,
a translation of the four Gospels into Mojso-Gothic by Bishop Ulphilas,
dating from the second half of the 4th century, written on 187 leaves of
parchment in gold and silver letters on a reddish ground. This precious
MS., captured at Prague in 1648, was presented by Queen Christina to
Vossius, her librarian, and was purchased from him for 400 crowns by
De la Gardie, the chancellor of the university. It is to this work of Ul-
philas that we are almost exclusively indebted for our knowledge of the
ancient Gothic language, which stands nearly in the same relation to the
Germanic languages as .Sanskrit to the whole Aryan family. — Other in-
teresting exhibits are the Decretum Consilii UpsaUensis of 1593 (p. 358), with
numerous signature.^; German letters of Gustavus Adolphus; letter from
Marie Antoinette to Gustavus HI. ; early Swedish printed books (from 1433);
plan of Paris (1739).
In the basement is a Collection of Coins.
In the Carolina Fark (PI. B, 4) is a Monument to Charles XIV.
John, by Fogelberg. To the S.W. of the park rise the large new
Chemical Laboratory (PI. B , 4) and the Physical and Medico-
Chemical Institutes, installed in the former Ghemicum.
On a hill on the S. side of the town rises the large but only
half-fini.shed Slott (PI. C, 4), a castle founded by Gustavus Vasa
in 1548. It is now the residence of the Landshufdiug and is partly
used as a prison. In this castle Eric XIV. caused the ill-fated
Count Sfure to be murdered, and it was here that Queen Christina
abdicated. Fine * Vieic from the E. side of the castle over the town,
to the N. of which Gamla Upsala is visible. P.ehind (to the W.) of
the castle is a bust of Vasa by Fogelberg, on a pedestal surrounded
b\' cannon.
(iamla Vpsala. UPSALA. 51. Route. HOI
Footpaths descend oii the E. slopes of the castle-hill to the
grounds on the Fyrha (^Kestmirant Flustret ; PI. C, D, 4, f); see
p. Hi")?). To the right is the large Hospital (Sjukhus).
Among the other nniversity institutions are the Observaloi-y
(Pi. A. 3); the Regndltiinum or Pathological Imlitule (PI. 23; C, 4);
the Anatomy Building ( PI. 1 ; 1^,4); the Collection of JSorlhem
Antiquities ('Nordiska Fornsaker'), Svartb'acks-riataii '27, in the
orangery of the old Botanic Garden; and the new Botanic Onrden
(PI. A, B. ii), to the W. of the castle-hill, with palm-houses and an
orangery. The lecture-room of the last contains a marble Statue "f
Linnaeus by Bystriim. The celebrated botanist resided at the old
Botanic Garden, and in summer at Hamrnarby (p. 3^5).
The Cemetery (PI. A,B,4) contains monuments of many emi-
nent men.
The most interesting spot near Upsala is Gamla TJpsala, 2'/'j M. to the
N.E., the first station on the Gefle railway (p. 378). On font or by
carriage (see p. 357) we follow the road parallt-l with the Gefle railway,
first on the left (W.), then on the ri^ht of the line. Gamla TJpsala was
the seat of the early pagan kings of Sweden. The site of its famous temple
is said to be marked by the present rude villaa;e-church. Adjacent are
the three Kunyshiiyur, or Tumuli of the Kings, each about 58 ft. high and
225 ft. in diameter. The hill farthest to the E. was opened in 1846-47,
and under the sand, embedded in gravel, were found an urn, 7 in. high
and 9 in. in diameter, containing calcined bones, and other objects now
preserved in the National Museum at Stockholm (groundfloor, Room III).
The two other hills, opened in 1874 and 1876, were found to be con-
structed on a similar plan. Fine view across the cultivated plain towards
I'psala, with the castle and cathedral rising picturesquely in the back^rouml.
To the K. of this hill, on the other side of (he road, is the Tingshiig
('assize hilT), ;-)2 ft. in height, froiu which the kings down to Gustavus
Vasa used to address their sulijects. In the neighbouring farm travellers
are olt'ered mead (nijod) in a silver-mounted horn (','2 bottle 40 o.).
I-'kom Ui'Sala -io NoKUTiiLJii (81 Kil., railway in 4 hrs.). Intermediate
stations unimportant. 21 Kil. Leiina; 41 Kil. Knulby; 60 Kil. Rimbo, con-
nected with Stockholm (Ostra Station) bv the railway mentioned at
p. 34'J (50 Kil., in 3 hw.). — SI Kil. Norrtelje (^tads-Hotel), a busy little
trading town with 25tlO inhah., lies in a pretty district at the W. end of
tlie bay of NorrUljevik, on the l'.;iltic. In summer it is a favourite
wateriug-place.
52. The Island of Gotland.
Stkamboat from Stockholm to Wisby once or twice daily in 12-14 hrs. ;
fares It) kr. in the 'hytt" or cabin, 8 kr. in the 'aktersalong' (without separate
lierths). Tickets for the boats starting from the Hiddarholm are obtained
of JFessrs. C. <). Strindlierg &. Co., Hiddarholm; for the well-equipped boats
starting from the Norra Blasieholmshamn, to the S.E. of the Museum,
from W. Larka, Skeppsbron 10 (PI. F, 7). Tickets should be taken some
lime in adv;ince so as to seciire a good berth. The steamers leave Stock-
holm in the evening-, travellers should rise early the next morning for the
view of the island as the steamer approaches. The steamers from the Rid-
darholm cross Lake Malaren and traverse the Siidertelge Canal (p. 312);
those from the Norru lilasieli dmshamn .steer by the Saltsjii past Vaxholm
(comp. ]). 350), then to the S. through the Skiirgard and past Dalarii
(p. 350). The final stag.- in the open Baltic is occasionally roush, though
seldom so in summer.
362 Route 52. GOTLAND. History.
A visit to Visby occupies one day. Travellers bound for the S. may
proceed the same evening by the steamer going on to Kalmar (p. 281), a
voyage of 10-11 hrs., of which the last 2 hrs. (after Borgholm is passed)
are very beautiful (fare from Stockholm to Kalmar, 15 kr.). — From StocU-
hrilm (Skeppsbron) to Stettin via Wisby, ouce a week.
Tlielsland of Gotland, tlie largest in the Baltic, about 70 Engl. M,
in length and Vl'20 sq. M. in area, lies about 60 M. from the main-
land of Sweden and 37 M. from the island of Oland. It consists of
a single plateau of Silurian limestone (overlaid with sandstone at
the S. end), rising to a height of 70-100 ft., and ending abruptly
on the sea-board in cliffs, here known as Klint. From this plateau
rise a few isolated hills, as the Thorshurg (225 ft.) and the Hohurg
(120 ft.). The islands of Slora and Lilla Karlso, to the S.W. of
Klinteliamn (p. 36()), are 190 ft. and 210 ft. high respectively. In
every part of Gotland occur large boulders of gneiss, granite, and
porphyry (grastenar, vrdkstenar, or ruUstenur), deposited in the
glacial period. A large part of the island is covered with small
lakes (trdsk) and swamps (myrar), gradually being drained or useil
as peat-moors (jestingly called the 'goldmines of Gotland'). The
largest of these is the Lummelundit-Myr. The few scanty streams
in the island are lost in the thirsty limestone soil, or in summer
dry up altogether. Here and there, however, a spring wells forth
from one of the "landborgar' in sufficient volume to turn a mill-
wheel. The limestone rocks have been worn into numerous grot-
toes. The greater part of the island is fertile and well cultivated.
The climate is mild, trees flourish, and the walls of Wisby are
luxuriantly clothed with ivy.
The population (r)2,000) is chiefly engaged in agriculture and
cattle-breeding. The ponies ('skogs-russar') and sheep of Gotland
are highly prized. Quarrying and lime-burning are among the other
resources of the island.
TheHiSTonY of Gotland, and more particularly that of Wisby, its
capital, the ancient 'place of sacrifice' (fromw/, 'victim'), situated
at the fool of the Klint, is closely connected with the great trade-
route between Asia, Novgorod in Russia, and the Baltic, which was
established at a very remote period and had its chief emporium on
this island. Until the beginning of the 12th cent, the trade of
Gotland was entirely in the hands of the Goths, who founded a
trading-factory in Novgorod; but the increasing importance of the
traffic attracted the attention of the Germans, who by-and-by pre-
ponderated to such an extent that more than half of the council
and one of the two superior magistrates were Germans. In 1280
Wisby and Liibeck formed an alliance, joined two years later by
Riga, for the purpose of protecting the Baltic traders against pirates.
The maritime Code of Wisby^ a compilation from Netherlandish and
Romanic sources, and written in low German, is called the 'Water-
recht, dat de Koopliide und de Schippers gemaket hebben to
Wisby'.
Siiil-ckgardetx D Troteb'
l.Apotheket
C.3
2 . Si^kopshitset
CJ).2
3 . MaiwfLtfu- Irirorerkel
C.3
it.d^medTiat.Mstscarilinffar C.3
S.ToradskziSpt
C.5
6. Frimurare logon.
n.2
7. Gotlands Fomsal
C.3
S.Sdi-piial
I).2
^Bifjjotek SfuiJ;
lOJ'ostkantai-
il.St-Clanens
n.St.ltrotteii
Vi-StCtTtrtta
U.St.Ha/is
Va.St.Kalartna
VJ.St.Lars C.3,
St.ilaria . D.2.
iS.StJficolatis . . I).2.
19.St.0lor C.2.
ZO. St.Per C.4.
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l2.Rd(lhuseLmedTelcgr((fstiitV.2.
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Wisby. GOTLAND. 52. Route. 363
The wealth of the town in its palmy days was proverbial : —
'Guld viiga de Gutar pa lispumlsvfig
Och spela med iidlaste stenar.
Svinen iita ur silfvertrag
Och hiistrurna spinna pS. guld-tenar\ (Old Ballad).
(The Gotlauders weigh their gold with twenty-pound weights and play
with the choicest jewels. The pigs eat nut of silver troughs, and the
women spin with gulden distaffs.)
But Wisby was soon outstripped by Liibeck; and as early as
1293 the Uanseatic League decreed that appeals from the factory at
Novgorod should no longer be heard at Wisby, but only at Liibeck.
Wisby thus lust its position as mistress of the Baltic trade. It
was attacked by Valdemar III. of Denmark in 1361, and a bloody
victory over the peasants of Gotland, of whom 1800 fell, outside
the gates of the town (July 31st) left him master of the island.
The inhabitants of Wisby, who had believed themselves to be safe
behind their walls, offered no farther resistance, and the town was
plundered. During the following centuries Wisby was involved in
the wars between Sweden and Denmark, and Gotland seems to have
been a refuge for adventurers and marauders of all kinds. At length
it was linally reunited to its mother-country by the Peace of Brlhn-
sefiro in 1(145.
Wisby. — Hotels. ' Stads- Hotel , in the S. part of Suand-Oatan,
nearly opposite the Landsholdiug's house (PI. B, 4), a new building with
tariff of a hotel of the lirst class, English spoken; Hotel Wisby UiiRs, in
the same street, a little to the N., in an old housi' with a pictures(iin'
gable, with restaurant. — Open air restaurant at the Paviljong in the
Hotaiiic GarJen, catered f<ir bv the Slads-Hotel.
Post Office, .Strand Gatan 19; open 8-3 & 5-7; Sun. S-11, G-7. — Telegraph
Oflice in \\w Kadhws (p. 3G1), open 7 a.m. 10 9 p.m.
Carriages at the hotels : to ,Sn'ii:k{fdrJ,'t 2^/-2-'i\-2ki:, \q Fridhi'm-HogkUnt
(p. 3(jG), G-IU kr.
Baths (PI. A, 4), to the S. of the harbour, adjoined by a Cafi.
British Vice-Consul & Lloyd's Agent, Mr. Edward Cramer.
Tile Rliski) Culkciies of St Nicholas , Helge-And, SI. l-ars , and 5/.
Katharina are open daily lU-3 (5 ij.), at other times on application to tlie
yakimditare Sandahl, Odal-Ciatan IG, opposite' St. Nicholas. — The col-
lection of antiquities in Gotland's Fonisal (p. 364) is open dailv 12-'2. adm.
fiO I'i. (Sun. t-3, adm. 25 ...).
WUby or Viahy, which now contains S'200 inhab., is the resi-
dence of a bishop, and is picturesquely situated partly at the base
of and partly upon the Kttnt, a cliff 100 ft. in height. It now occu-
pies less than half of tlie area occupied in the days of its niedianal
prosperity, wlien it had about 20,000 inliab. and contained IG
ijiurches, many of wliich liave vanished or exist only in ruins. Tlie
unused space is covered with gardens, amidst which stand the im-
posing and carefully preserved ruined churches, while the town is
stjll enclosed by its ancient walls.
Wisby is divided into four rolar or quarters, indicated on the
IMan by different sliading. Si. JIans-Iiotan, the oldest part of the
town, contained most of the churches ; Stfiinil-Iiotan adjoins the
old harbour ((iamla liamn), now lilled up and covered with gar-
H64 Route 52. GOTLAND. Wishy.
(lens; Norder-Rotan, the northern quarter, contains the churches
of SS. Clement and Nicholas ; and KUnte-Rotan t'orins an upper
quarter, between the lower parts and tlie eastern wall. Thi' break-
water of the present harbour, b\iilt in 1873, begins at the old harbour.
The *TowN Walls, erected at the close of the 13th cent, on
the site of still earlier walls , form the most striking feature of
Wisby. From the Jungfrutorn ('maiden's tower' ; PI. C, 1), where,
according to tradition, a treacherous maid of Wisby, who was in
league with Valdemar, was built into the wall as a punishment,
and the Silfverhi'ittan (?\. C, D, 1) on the coast, at the N. end of
the town, the walls ascend the Kliut towards the S.E., cross the
hill to the S. gate at the S.E. angle of the town (J'l. 0, 5), and
descend to the old castle of Wlshorg, the new Prison (PI. A, 4), and
the harbour at the S.W. end of the town. On the land-side the
walls are about 2400 yds. in length, and on the side next the sea
about 1980yds. From the walls, at equal distances, and in several
stories, rise a number of large Tovers (Hbgtorncn) 60-70 ft. in
height, provided with embrasures, and resting on the ground,
while between them a series of bartizans ^i^fm^/orn<^n, or Sudeltor-
nen) stand on the wall itself, being supported by corbels outside.
Between these towers, and under the roof with which the wall is
covered, formerly ran passages for the use of the sentinels, resting
on beams, the holes for which are still traceable. Of the 48 'high
towers' 38. are still in good preservation, but the bartizans have
almost all disappeared. Outside the walls the old moat is still
traceable, and on the N. side there are three parallel moats.
From the steamboat -pier we ascend to Strand-Oatan {^i^\. H,
4, 3), the chief street of Wisby, which we follow. At the N. corner
of the Donners-Plats stands the Burmeisterska Hus (1661), com-
pletely covered with ivy. Farther to the N. in the same street are
OollaivVs Fornsal (adm., see p. 363) and the Post Office. — Oppo-
site the latter we turn to the right and beyond the Rtulhus (PI. '2'2;
telegrapli office) we proceed to the left and at the corner of the
Stora-Torg, or chief market-place, reach the ruins of —
St. Catharine's {St. Karin; PI. 1()), the church of the Francis-
cans, erected about 1230. This elegant Gothic edifice, of which
twelve slender pillars and some of the ribs of the vaulting are still
extant, has a pentagonal apse. On the S. side are some scanty re-
mains of the conventual buildings. — A little to the N.W.. in
Hans-Gatan, are the 'sister churches' of iSt. Drotten (PI. 12) and
St. Lars (PI. 17), of the 12th cent., with huge towers once prob-
ably used for defensive purposes.
Tlie street between the two last-named ruins ascends to the — -
Cathedral of St. Mary (PI. D, 2). the only church still used for
service. This edifice, built by the Germans on the site of an earlier
church and consecrated in 1225, was afterwards greatly altered,]
and has been restored since 1890. A massive square tower rises]
Wi.iby. GOTLAND. o'J. lioide. 365
at tlic \S'. oiiil, two slender neta^jonnl ones ;it the K. The interior
iiiiludes nave and aisles, with an addition on the S. side. The.
variety displayed by tlie pillars points to the repeated enlargement
of the original structnre. TJie pulpit was made in Liibeck (1684);
many of the epitaphs are in German. The sacristan [^/i^^'-} lives
to the N.K. of the choir (at the top of the wooden stairs).
Norrd Kyrko-Gatan leads hence to the N. gate of the town,
passing about halfway the remarkable Helgeands-Kyrkd (Pi. 15),
or Church of the Holy Ghost, built in the Romanesque style about
1250, and consisting of two stories, with one choir in common. In
the lower church are four massive square piers; the round pillars
of the upper churih are late-Romanesque in style. — The side-
street opposite the entrance leads past the scanty remains of
St. Gertrudes (PI. 13) to —
*St. Nicholas (PI. 18; 1>, 2), the most interesting of the ruined
churches of Wisby, which formerly belonged to a Dominican mon-
astery and probably dates from the beginning of the 13th century.
It was destroyed in 1525 in the war between Liibeck and the Danes
who then held the town. In the W. facade, which has no portal,
are two rose-windows, in the middle of each of which, says tradi-
tion, there once sparkled a brilliant carbuncle. These gems were
carried oil" by Valdemar, but his ship was wrecked, and they are
said still to illumine the depths of the sea near the Karlsoar
(p. 366). The main entrance is in the N. aisle. The interior, which
has no transepts, is supported by teTi massive square pillars; most
of the windows are round-arched. A dilapidated staircase ascends
from the N. aisle to the roof ( tine view).
The Romanesque church of St. Clement (PI. 11), with a line S.
portal, may also be mentioned. In the N. part of Strand- Gatan
(PI. C, 2, 3) is a house of the 13th cent., which, however, has been
altered. The N.W. angle of the town is occupied by the Botanical
Garden (PI. C, 2, 1 ) of the D. B. V. Society (see below), with the
■Paviljong restaurant (p. 863). On the AV. the garden is bounded
tiy the old town-wall, on which is the Jungfrutorn (p. 364).
A most interesting *Wai,k (l/o hr.) may be taken through the
Norra Stadsjjort (PI. D, 2), then by the second turning on the left,
passing above the ruined church of St. 6'(iran(Pl. D, 1 ; 13th cent.),
to the (8 mill.) Galyberget, with its three stone pillars, 19^/2 ft. in
height, used in media-val execution.s. From this point we enjoy a
splendid view of the sea and the town-walls. A footpath descends
hence, passing the U'lfrdrtkulan ('robbers' cave) and the Troje-
borg, a curious and very ancient labyrinth of stones, in circular
form, to the liighrdad which leads back to the town by the <oast. —
About Vyii M. to the N. is the frequented pleasure-resort of Snack-
■giirdet, where the D. B. V. Society {i.e. 'de badande vannerna\ 'the
friends of bathing"), founded in 1814 to promote the common
weal, I'elebrates an annual festival on July 9th.
366 Route 5i>. GOTLAND. Whby.
In the Korshetning (PI. D, 5), 10 iniii. from tlie S. gate, rises
a curious old monolithic Crni<s, Oft. high, with a Latin inscription,
marking the burial-place of the (iotlanders who fell in the battle
of July, 1361 (p. 363). Outside the Sbdra Stad-port we cross tlic
railway to the left and go straight on to the cemetery (Nya Kyrko-
garden), the main walk of which wc follow (to the left) to the N.
exit. We may return via the Oslraport (VI. D, 3, 4), enjoying a good
^-iew of the town-wall.
Excursions. Pleasant drive or sail of 1 hr. (see p. 363) to the
promontory of Hogklint (150 ft.), 41/2 M. to the S. of Wisby. Walk-
ers follow the highroad from the S. gate (PI. C, 5), take the first
turning to the right beyond the (3 Kil.) stone erected in memory of
the visit of Oscar 11., and reach the (3 Kil.) Villa Fridhem (beyond
PI. B, 5), the property of Prince Oscar Bernadotte. The Hogklint,
1 Kil. farther on, affords a fine view, particularly in the direction
of Wisby. A little below the summit on the W. side are the lime-
stone rock of Oetsvaltan and a cavern.
The island of Gotland possesses many other ancient churches and its
coaat-scenery is often fine; but the absence of accommodation and the
difficulties of the language render its exploration inconvenient. In any
case, the tourist, before undertaking an excursion, shoxOd make enquiries
at the Tourisfs Bureau (Lindstrom) at the harbour in Wisby.
I<"kom WisBt TO Hemse, 55 Kil., narrow-gauge railway, in 3 hrs. (fares
3 kr. 30, 2kr. 20 o.). The station at Wisby is on the S. side of the town
(PI. B, 5). — 13 Kil. Bardlinglo. — 21 Kil. Roma, with an old Cisterci;in
convent, founded in 1164, hut frequently rebuilt ; it has been state-property
(Kungsgard) since the Reformation. The branch for Klintehamn diverges
here. — 46 Kil. Slanga, with an interesting old church. — 55 Kil. Hemse
(inn), with a Eoraanesque church of the end of the 12th cent., containing
mural painting.s of the loth century. — The railway is being continued to
lldfdheiii. and Jhirsvik.
From Hemse an expedition (2 days) may be made to the S. part of
the island, in a carriage that should ordered by telephone from Wisby.
On the way several old churches are passed, the most interesting being
those of Grottlinijbo and Vamlingbo- The S. part of the island is treeless,
but the curious promontory iji J/oburg, near Re/sudden, with its lighthouse
and cavern ('Koburgsgubbens Sangkammare', bedroom of the old man of
Hoburg) will repay a visit. It lies about 40 Kil. from Hemse.
The branch-line from Roma (see above) to Klinteuamn (23 Kil., in
1 hr.) passes unimportant stations, at some of which are ancient churches.
Klin'ehainii, which lies on the W. coast of the island, is visited by sea-
bathers. About 4 Kil. inland is the old church of Klinte. From Klintehamn
we may visit the picturesque KarUoar (20 Kil. ; p. 362).
Another railway runs from Wissr to Ti.vgstade, situated on a small
lake 24 Kil. to the N.E. rii/4 hr.). The first station is at the Osterporl
(PI. D, 3). At Ot/iem, 7-8 Kil. ta the E., and Larbo, 15 Kil. to the N.E.
of Tingstade, are noteworthy old churches.
The steamboat 'Klintehamn' sails round the island once a week (10 kr.),
steering to the S. from Wisby one week, to the N. the next week. In the
former direction the stations in order are: Klintehamn, Burgsvik, Ronehamn,
Ljugarn, Katthammai-svik. fSlUe (near which are KiiUej and the curious
rocks known as Ravkar), FdrOsund, and KappeUhamn.
367
53. From Stockholm to Vesteras and Orebro.
217 Ki). Railway ('Vestinanliinds-Jernvag''). Express in T-T'/i, ordinary
train in 13-14 hrs. (fares 11 kr. 53, 7 kr. 80 o.)-
The train starts from the Central Station (p. 314). It skirts the
IvJrxtrandsvik^ passing the factories of Atlas and Rorstmnd (p. 354),
on the right, and the chatean of Karlberg (p. 354), on the left,
beyond which the branches to Viirtahamnen (p. 347) and Upsala
(^p. 354) diverge on the right. 6 Kil. Sundbyberg ; 11 Kil. Spanga;
17 Kil. Jakobsberg. We then cross the narrow strait of Staket, at
the entrance of the Upsala arm of the Malar (p. 3oo), and traverse
the island oi Stdkeso by means of a tunnel. Another bridge carries
us to (28 Kil.) Kungsiingen. 36 Kil. Bro. Beyond (47 Kil.) BMda
we cross the narrow Ekolsundsvik. 56 Kil. Ekolsund ; 64 Kil. Grillby.
74 Kil. Enkoping (Stads-HotelJ, a small town near Lake Mii-
laren , on which a steamer plies to Stockholm. Large market
gardens. 82 Kil. Lundhy; 88 Kil. Orresta; 95 Kil. Tortuna.
101 Kil. Tillberga (Railway Redaurant). the junction of several
railways-lines.
Fi;o.M Tii.lbei:ga tu Llovika, 111 Kil., railway in '2''A-7 hrs. (fares
6 kr., 3 kr. 9o 0.). This railway opens up the productive iron-district
of V'e.-tmanland. Mines and iron works are seen in every direction. —
11 Kit. iStvKuna, with brass-work^ ; 18 Kil. Siana. — At (28 Kil.) liamnas.
the junction for the branch-line to Kolback (p. 368), the train reaches
the aii-'Jnisliolm Canal (p. 368). We skirt this vi;\ (33 Kil.) Seglingsberg
and (30 Kil.) Vinho, and pass near the large lake oi Aminningen, to (50 Kil.)
Enguhbcrg (fair inn), ou the N.E. bank of the lake (p. 3G8), the junction
for a branch-line which runs via the iron-mines and factorie'* of iswjten
(p. 369), llOgfors, Sorhtrg, and Karrynifvan, to Kri'lOo (p. 374 1. — At'the^
iron-works df (63 Kil.yyustanforf (p, 369) the train crosses the Stronisholm
Canal and runs along the S. bank of the beautiful lake of Barken to
(81 Kil.) Vesterbr/, (84 Kil.) Soderbarke, and (9.0 Kil.) Siimdjebacknn (comp.
p. 372). — 111 Kil. Ludiika, see p. 372.
Fiio.M TiLLUEUGA TO Sai.a (p. 374), 28 Kil., railway in I'/i hr. — The
most important intermediate .stations are (5 Kil.) Bedensberg , near the
chateau nf that name, and (19 Kil.) Tenia.
Ill Kil. Vesteras (Central Hotel, very fair; Hotel h'lippan;
Hotel Vesteras), an industrial town of 12,500 inhab. and seat of a
bishop, originally called Vestra Aroa ('W. mouth', while Upsala
was called Ostra Aros), lies on a bay of the Millar. It was once a
very important place. No fewer than eleven diets of the kingdom
were held here, chief of which was the 'Vesteras Recess' in 1527,
which abolished the Roman Catholic religion in Sweden. .V bust
of Gustavus Vasa, by (^)varnstrum, in the gardens near the town-
hall, commemorates this Recess,
The*CATHBi)KAi,, rebuilt by lUrger Jarl on the site of a church
founded in the 11th cent., was consecrated in 1271, afterwards
much altered, and restored in 1850-60. It is a fine Gothic edifice,
100 yds. long and 28 yds. broad, with a tower 334 ft. high.
In the Interior wc observe an altar-piece of the beyinninj of the 16th
cent., the handsfime candelabra, and the minumcnts of the administrator
Hvanle Sivre (d. 1512). Marshal ifagnut Sralie (d. 1844), and the unhappy
o68 Koule 53. STKOMSHOLM CANAL From Slockkuim
Eric XIV. (p. o78J. The uiarljle sarcophai^us of Kric wa.s placed here by
Oustavus III. instead of the old tombstone inscribed with a verse from
the Rilile, and by his order the crown and sceptre were brought hither
from the tomb of John III. at Ilpsala.
The Episcopal Library of 1*2,000 vols, contains the valuable
books of the Elector of MayencC; carried off by Oxeiistjerna in the
Thirty Years' War.
On a hill to the S.W. of the mouth of the brook Svarta, not
far from the station, rises the old Castle, once a robber's stronghold,
afterwards captured by Gustavus Vasa and strengthened, where
Eric XIV. was imprisoned from June, 1673, to the end of 1575.
After a fire in the 17th cent, it was rebuilt, and it is now the seat of
the provincial government. The DjSknebenj, on the Svarta, is a
pretty public park.
Steamboat on Lake Malaren to Stockholm daily in 6-7 hrs.
121 Dingluna. — 130 Kil. Kolbdck, where the train crosses the
Slromsholm Canal, is the junction of a line to Rekarne and Eskils-
tuna, the first station on which is (8 Kil.) Stromsholm.
The Stromsholm Canal, about 110 Kil. long, constructed in 1T77-95
and improved in 1842-59, connects the mines of Vestmanland and Dalecarlia
with Lake Miilaien and the Baltic. Steamboats ply from Stockholm to
Smedjebacken daily. The lake-voyage to Stromsholm (comp. pp. 351-3541
takes 7-8 hrs., and the canal itself is rather tedious (from Stromsholm to
Ramnas about 6'/'2 hrs. ; thence to Smedjebacken 61/2 hrs. more). Most
travellers will prefer the railway via Tillberga (p. 367).
Stromsholm (Inn), with its chateau founded by Gustavus Vasa and
rebuilt from a design by Kic. Tessin in the 17th cent., and a famous stud,
lies on a northern bay of the W. end of the Malar. The first lock on
the canal opens here. Two more locks at Vesterqvarn, and a fourth at
Prestforsen. The falls at Kolbdcl-sa, Horqvarn, Sl-ansen. and Trangfors are
avoided by means of eight locks. This is the linest part of the canal,
especially at Skansen (inn). Another lock at Alscitra leads into the Ost-
Surasjd (180 ft. above the sea) ; we then pass through two more and
through the Norrhystroiii to Ramnas (inn). Many forges and factories are
passed.
Two new locks ascend to the lakes Nedve and 6fre Nadden; we come to
another b ck at Seglingsberg and another at Virsho, and next reach the large
lake of Amanningen (250 ft.). Here we touch at the Engelsberg. a station
on the railway from Tillberga (p. 367). Then follow the lakes of Lilla
Aspen and Siora Aspen and three great iron locks at Veslanfors. Uddnfis.
and Farjevsta. Lastly, three locks at Sembla.
Near the lake of Vefungdi is the boundary of the province of Dalarnc
or Dalecarlia. Contiguous to this lake is that of Siidra Barken (329 ft.),
on which lies the finely situated Soderbcirke (with church and par.-onage).
Lastly, the picturesque lake oi Norra Barken (378 fl.), with Norrharke and —
Smedjebacken {Hotel, well spoken of), the centre of a great mining
district, with steam-hammers, factories, etc. — Railway, see p. 367.
136 Kil. Munktorp. — 146 Kil. Koping (Stads-Hotel), an old
town of 4(300 Inhab., on the Kopingsa, which falls into the Millar
in the vicinity, is the junction of a branch-line running past several
important iron-works to (34 Kil.) Vttersberg and (4(J Kil.) Biddar-
hyttan. Steamboat from Koping to Stockholm daily.
155 Kil. Valskog, junction of the Nykcipiiig, Flen, and Eskils-
tuiia line (p. 370).
to Orebro. OREBRO. 53, Route 369
103 Kil, Arboga (flotellet; Oastyifoaregard), once a famous
trading town ('gammal som Arboga gata', says an old proverb), but
now witb 5300 iiihab. only, lies on the Arboyau, from which the
lljelmare Canal diverges (p. oTO). The church, with its lofty spire,
contains a Descent from tlie Cross attributed to Rembrandt. —
Steamer to Stockholm every week-day,
167 Kil. Jiiders Bruk; 176 Kil. Fellinysbro; 187 Kil. VUersiiler.
192 Kil. Frovi, junction of an important mineral line to Ludvika.
From FrOvi to Ludvika (98 Kil., in 5V.' hrs. ; fares 5 kr. 40, 3 kr.
70 i>.). The line traverses one of the most important mining districts in
Sweden, rich in iron, copper, and lead. 10 Kil. Vedevay.
19 Kil. liinde (Hotel), a mining town of 1500 inhab., prettily situated
between the two Lakes of Linde. was rebuilt after a lire in 1869.
The train follows the K. bank of the lake of Rossvalen to Gusselby,
Sloru (from which a branch diverges to the silver and lead mine of Quld-
sim.dshyllan), Vasselliyttan, Rallsu, and Bangliro (junction for Bunc/haimnar,
KOUjOn, a.ni Klolen). — 55 Kil. Kopparbery (hotel) lies among immense mines.
— 03 Kil. Stcilldalen, where our line crosses the Kil and Falun railway
(p. 372), with which we then run nearly parallel to Ludvika. Stations:
Utiillbenj, Hijfk. Ordngesberg. BJiirnhr/Uan, Gonds.
98 Kil. Ludvika, see p. 372.
Fro.\[ Fiiovi TO Krylbo, 107 Kil.. railway in 3-6 hrs. This railway is
a continuation of the line from Mjolby to Hallsberg (p. 308) and Orebro
(see below). The principal intermediate stations are (32 Kil.) Krampen,
Vestunfors (67 Kil.), with important steel- works, and (SO Kil.) Snvten
(p. 367). — 107 Kil. Krylbo, see p. 374.
From (201 Kil.) Ervalla a branch-line goes to Jerle and the
picturesquely situated town oiNora. surrounded with iron-works and
mines. (Thence to Karlskoga, see p. 313.) — 205 Kil. Dylta Bruk.
217 Kil. Orebro (Orebro Hotel; Central Hotel; Jernvdgs-Hotel),
one of the most ancient towns in Sweden, capital of the 'Lan' of
that name, with 18,000 inhab., lits in a flat region on the Svarta,
near Lake HjeLmare (76 ft.). No fewer than flfteen diets of the
Estates were held, and the destinies of the country frequently de-
cided, at Orebro. This was the birthplace of Engi'lbrekt Engel-
brektsson, the famous Swedish patriot (comp. p. Ix). The Svarta
flows through the town from W. to E., and the handsome Drott-
ning-Gatan intersects it from N. to S. The town has a very modern
appearance, having been almost entirely rebuilt after a great lire
in 1854. To its ancient period, however, belongs the venerable
Slott with its four round towers, situated on an island in the river,
and now a museum (Sat. & Sun., 1-2). In the Stora Torg is the
modern Stad.<hus, in front of which rises a Statue of Enyelbrekt by
Qvarnstrcim, erected in 1865. Among other noteworthy buildings
are the Church of St. .Mcholas (13th cent.; recently restored), the
Kunysstuya ('king's house'), Jern-Torgct 3, one of the oldest and
quaintest timber buildings of Sweden, and the Allmanna Liiroverk
(or Karolinska Skolaji^, with its small museum. In front of the
latter an Obelisk has been erected in memory of the Swedish re-
formers Olaus Petri (d. 1562) and Laurentius Petri (d. 1573). —
Bakdkkkr's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 24
;>70 Route 54. ESKILSTUNA.
Walks to Skeback , on Lake Hjelmare, and Adolfsherg, a small
■watering-place to the S., a stopping-place of the slow trains.
From Ui-ebro to J'alsboda-y^orsholm, see p. 310; to Hulhhttrg and Mjolbti.,
.see p. 303...
Fkoji Oeebro to Svakta, 50 Kil., railway in 2 hr?. (fares 2 kr. 95 6.,
2 kr.). Trains .start at the Sodra Station and ascend the valley of the
SvartS. 5 Kil. luirhbiud, with the pleasare-resoi t ot Slromsnas (also reached
from Orebro l)y steamboat); 14 Kil. Lalorjuhruk ; 22 Kil. Eidiwjelro ; 27 Kil.
Fjugesla; 32 Kil. Qvisbro. — 50 Kil. Hvarla, see p. 314.
Stkamboat from Orebro four times a week through the Orebro Canal
(opened in 183S) to Lake Hjelmare (76 ft.; 47 M. long, 200 sq. JI. in area,
65 ft. deep), thrt)ugh the Hjelmare Canal (N.) to the Arbogaa (p. 369), down
this river to the Malar, which it reaches at KunysSr (see below), and then
down this lake to Stockholm. — Another steamer plies thrice weekly
between Orebro and Skogstorp., at the E. end of the lake. (Thence by rail
to Eskilstuna in '/j hr.) The scenery of Lake Hjelmare is tame. Its pike
and crayfish ('gaddor', 'kraftor') are much esteemed. A monument on the
Engelbrekisholm, in the W. part of the lake, marks the spot where Engel-
brekt was assassinated by Jlans Bengtson in 1436. A little to the E. of
the entrance to the canal is Slora Sundby. the chateau of Count Platen,
erected by Robinson in the Norman style.
A railway goes tr.om Orebro to Mosas, Kumla, and (25 Kil.)
IJallsberg, on the Vestra Stainbana (p. 301 ; express in 40 uiin. ;
fares 2 kr. 15, 1 kr. 50 o. ; ordinary trains in ^ '4-IV4 ^^- j fares
1 kr. 35, 90 6.).
54. From Kolback and Valskog to Fleii, Nykoping,
and Oxelosund.
Railway in 7-9 hrs. ; from Kolback to Oxelosund, 132 Kil. (fares 8 kr.
5, 5kr. 35 6.); from Valskog to Oxelosund, 138 Kil. (fares 8 kr. 40,5kr. 406.).
Kolback, seep. 368. The train follows the course of the Stroms-
holm Canal to Slromsliolm (p. 368) , at its mouth , crosses tlie
Borgasund, skirts the shore of the mainland, and crosses the Qvick-
sund to the station of that name. 18 Kil. Rekarne, junction of
the railway coming from (24 Kil.) FaJsfco^ (p. 368), Kung sot {a.ii\\e
mouth of the Arbogaa, see above), and Osier-Tibbie. — We give
the distances from Valskog.
29 Kil. Thorshalla, on the Thorshdllaa or Eskilstunaa, near its
influx into the Malar, was once the port of Eskilstuna, to which,
however, a direct waterway was afforded by the construction of
locks (1856-60) avoiding the falls of the stream.
35 Kil. Eskilstuna (Stads-Hotel; Central Hotel; Nya Hotel), a
town with 13,600 inhab., on the Eskilstunaa, owes its name to
St. Eskil, an Englishman, Archbishop of Lund, and the apostle of
Christianity in Sodermanland (d. in 1181 at the Beruardine mon-
astery of Clairvaux in France). A Bernardiue monastery, founded
here in the r2th cent., was converted into a royal chateau by
Gustavus Vasa in 1527 and burned down in 1680. >Since the
17th cent. Eskilstuna has been the chief seat of the steel-manufac-
ture in Sweden. The town consists of the Gamla Stad on the E.
NYKOPING. 54. Route. 371
bank, and the Nya StaJ., the Fristad, and the Karl Gustafs Siad on
the W. bank.
Among the great factories are the Karl Gustafsstads Oevars-
faktori, or gun-factory, on an island in the river, founded in 1814;
MunktelCs Foundry and Engine Works, opposite ; and the Tunafors
Rolling and Polishing Works, to the S. of the town. Damascened
wares are a specialty of the famous Steel Works in the Fristad. The
Technical School contains a collection of the products of the place.
A Branch Railway i-uns from Eskilstuna to the N. to Xyhybvuli ( Thors-
hiilla) and M&larhaden, and a Steamboat plies ten times weeklv to Stock-
holm, by Thorshalla and Sfre?ig>ias (p. 354). — To the N.E. of "Eskilstuna
is (12 Kil.) the church of Jdder, the burial-place of Axel Oxenstjerna
(d. 1654). Adjacent is the^large estate of Fiholm, on Lake Malaren.
From Eskilstuna via Akers-Slychebruk-S(tltskog to Stockholm, see p. 311.
40 Kil. Skogstorp; 45 Kil. Hallsta; 61 Kil. Helleforsncis; G8 Kil.
Melliisa.
65 Kil. Flen, junction of the Vestra Stambana (p. 311; for
Stockholm).
76 Kil. Vadsbro; 96 Kil. Bettna; 103 Kil. Vrena ; 111 Kil.
Stiytomta; 116 Kil. Larslund, all in the district of Sodermanland
(comp. p. 311), with its numerous lakes.
125 Kil. Nykoping (Stora Hotel; Radhuskallaren ; Brit, vice-
consul, A. Helander), with 7000 inhab., at the mouth of theNykb-
pingsa, which drains several lakes and here falls into the Byfjdrd,
a bay of the Baltic, is the capital of Sodermanlands-Lan (7000 in-
hab.). Fifteen National Diets were held here in the 13-17th cent-
uries, A waterfall of the river here drives the Nykopinys Mcka-
niska Verkstad , a large engine -factory. — The Stockholm ami
Norrkiiping steamers touch at Nykoping several times weekly.
133 Kil. Sljernholm. — 138 Kil. 0.velbsund (p. 307).
55. From Gotenburg to Falun.
478 Kil. Hailway ('Bergslagernas Jernvagar ). express daily in 15 hrs.
(fares 31 kr. 10, 17 kr. Go 6.) ; ordinary trains take two days. This rail-
way, which traverses the provinces of Dalsland, Vermland, Vestmauliind.
and Dalecarlia (l)alarne) and connects the rich mining district (^Bergs-
lager') of Vermland with the great S. W. port of Sweden , oilers few
attractions to the tourist.
From Gotenburg to Oxnered (82 Kil.), junction of the Veners-
borg-Uddevalla line, see pp. 292-295. To the right are the Halle-
berg and the Hunneberg (p. 296). — The line runs N. , via (97 Kil.)
Frundefors, (106 Kil.) Bralanda, and (114 Kil.) Erikntad, to —
123 Kil. Mellerud (Rail. Restaurant; Hotel Mellerud, close by,
very fair), junction of the Sunnana- Fredrikshald line (p. 83).
131 Kil. Kopmannahro , where we cross the Dalsland Canal
(p. 299), which here issues from^Lake Venern. — 144 Kil. Anim-
skog; 155 Kil. Tosse. — 164 Kil. Amal, a little town of 2700 inhab. ;
view of the lake to the right.
Near (181 Kil.) Se[}le (Hotel Royal; Jernvags-llotel, near the
24*
372 Route 55. LUDVIKA. From Ootmlvrg
station) tlie train crosses the ranal of that name, which connects
the By-Elf, and throiigli it the extensive Glafsfjord, with Lake
Venern. The line then threads its way among the numerous
lakes oi South Vermland. 189 Kil. Vermlandsbro ; 200 Ki]. Seymon;
210 Kil. Grums; '221 Kil. Edsmdla.
232 Kil. Kil (p. 309), junction of the Nordvestra Stambana
(R. 48), and of a short branch-line to Frykstad.
248 Kil. Deje, with a saw-mill and a waterfall, on the Klar-Elf,
which we cross by a handsome bridge. A steamer plies thence to
Vddeholm (see below), via Munkfors and Itanaciter, the birthplace
of the poet Geijer. — 254 Kil. M'Olnhacka; 264 Kil. Molkom;
271 Kil. Lmrf/br.s- 279 Kil. Geijersdal.
293 Kil. Daylosen, at the S. end of Lake Daglosen (41;') ft.).
EuAKCH-LiNE to (8 Kil.) Filipstad (Slads-Holel). also a sfation on the
branch-line from Nybyttan to Finshyttan (p. 377), pleasantly situated at
the N. end of Lake Daglosen. Finest view from the Hastabevg. Numerous
iron-mines. On the edge <if the lake, behind the town, is the tomb of
.lohn Ericsson (p. 3L'6), with a monument. — Railway (91 Kil., in 5 hrs.)
fr<im Filipstad to Fimhyttmi fbranch-line to Nyhyttan, see helow), Hagfnrs,
Uddeholm (see above), Edebdck on the Klar-Elf., with extensive iron-works,
and ifnnk/ors. The 'Uddeholms Aktie-Bolag', which possesses numerous
iron-works and estates, is one of the greatest companies in Sweden.
304 Kil. Herrhult, where our line crosses the branch-line from
Christinehamn toNyhyttan (see above), Persberg, and Mora fp. 377).
— 315 Kil. Loka, with a healing spring; 326 Kil. Grytlhyttehed
(junction for Kortfors, p. 313); 334 Kil. Hellefors; 341 Kil. Sik-
fors ; 352 Kil. Bredsjo, all witli iron-works. Numerous lakes.
At (^72Ki\.^ Stdlldalen theBergslagernas line crosses the Frcivi-
Ludvika line (p. 369), and the two lines run parallel from this
point to (384 Kil.) Horken, (392 Kil.) Grungesberg, with important
iron-mines, (399 Kil.) Klenshyltnn, and Ludvika. Between the
lakes Norra Horken and Sodra Horken the construction of the rail-
way is interesting. Near Griingesberg we cross the boundary be-
tween Vestmanland and Dalarne.
408 Kil. Ludvika [Jernvdgs- Hotel, very fair), on Lake Vessman
(500 ft.), junction of the lines to Smedjebacken, on the Striimsholm
Canal (p. 368), and TiUberga (p. 367), and to Frovi (p. 369).
417 Kil. Grdsberg; 426 Kil. Rdinen., on the lake of that name ;
435 Kil. Skrdcka.
455 Kil. Borlange (45':) ft. ; Jemvdgs-Hotel; Hot. Nordlun.d),
with manufactories of cloth for Dalecarlian costumes, is the junction
of the Siidra Dalarnes and Siljan railways (p. 375).
At (456 Kil.) Domnarfvet (inn) a lofty bridge carries the train
over the Dol-Elf, which here forms a waterfall. The water-power
required by the Bessemer steel-works here, belonging to the Stora
Kopparbergs Bergslag at Falun (p. 373), is brought from the river
by a tunnel 330 yds. long. — 461 Kil. Orncis lies at the S.W. end
of the Eunn.yli (355 ft.), on which a steamboat plies.
to Falun.
FALUN. 55. Route. 373
Oniiis and the b.iiiks of the Runnsjo are classic Sdil in Swedish history.
At Rankhyilan, at the S.E. end of the lake, is the barn (kungslada) in
which GustavusVasa, when a fugitive, disguised as aPalkarl, once threshed
corn. At the Orniissttiga, on the right bank of the lake, he was enabled
by Barbyo Stigsdotler to elude his pursuers, to whom her husband Arendl
I'craon was about to betray him. His bed and other memorials are shown
here in the Kunijskammare, from the window of which Barbro let him
down by a sheet.
478 Kil. Falun [370 ft. ; Stach-Hotel, in the market-place, fair,
K. 2-3 kr. ; Xya Hotel, near the station), the capital of Dalecarlia
(_Swed. Dijlarne, 'the valleys'), with 10000 inhab., famed for its
copper-mines, lies on both banks of the Falua, near its embouchure
in a bay of the Runnsjo. The town has grown out of a group of
separate villages : on the E. bank of the stream. Ostanfors, Lallarf-
vet, dfvre and Yttre Asen, Slaggen, and Holmen ; on the W. bank,
Preftlaglen, Gamla Hcrrgarden, and Elsborg. The principal build-
ings, all on the E. bank, are the Kristlna-Kyrka, with its green
copper roof, built in 1642-55, the Radhits, and the Gymnasium,
the 'Vaktmiistare' of which shows (he collection of antiquities in the
Dalaforn^al. The W. side is the industrial quarter.
The Fnlu Grufva , the largest copper-mine in the world after
those of Lake Superior in America, which has been worked since
the 13th cent., is situated about 1 M. to the S.W. of the town. The
whole surrounding region looks burned up by the Rostrok, or fumes
from the former smelting furnaces, though the wet extraction process
has been in use for many years. The entrance to the mines adjoins a
huge subsidence of the groutnl, known as Stolen, which took place in
1687 owing to unskilful underground operations. The deepest shaft
sinks about 440 ft.
VLsilors (adni. at 1p.m.: notice sent from Falun by telephone) are
providcil with miner's atlirc (o/verkldder) at the mining-office (gru/konlor),
and wilh a miner (stigare) as a guide (fee 1-3 kr. ; additional fee for
gun-shots to awaken the echoes). The descent and ascent are made by
means of a lift. The ground is very wet at places, and the lighting very
inadequate. The expedition can scarcely be called attractive, but visitors
to Falun will hardly like to omit it.
The mines have" belonged since 1838 to the Stora Kopparhergs Bergs-
lag, a joint-stock company with a capital of nearly 10 million kr. and
large property in land. They were formerly state-property, and were
called •■Sverigcs ,-kalkamniare' (treasury of Sweden) by Gustavus Adolphus.
In the middle of the 17th cent, abnut 1250 tons of copper were annually
extracted, but the yield rapidly fell oil', reaching its lowest figure between
1830 and 1840. Now ihe annual yield is about 400 tons of copper, besides
about 10,570 oz. of silver and (since 1881) 3170-3520 oz. of gold. — In 1719
the body of a young man, named Matf Itraeltson, who had perished in the
mines 49 years befnre. was recovered in so perfect a state of preservation
owing to the fumes of the copper vitriol, that it was immediately identified
by an aged woman who had been betrothed to him in her youth. This
event is the subject of poems and stories in various languages.
Railway to Rattvik and Orsa on Lake Siljan (p. 377) and to Geflc,
see p. 377.
374
56. From Stockholm to Lake Siljan via Borlange
(Falun).
2U2 Kil. Railway in abnut 71/2 hrs. (express to Krylbo) ; fares 16 kr.,
10 kr. 75 ii. From Stockholm to Krylbo we travel by the N. State Raiivay ;
from Krylbo to Borlange by the Sodra Dalarnes Jcrnvdg ; and from Borlange
to Insjon by the Siijans Jernvag. — Throvigh-tlckets to all places on Lake
Siljan, valid for a Ibrtni^iht, are issued at the Central Station at Stockholm.
The following pleasant CiRonLAR Todr occupies 5-6 days, includinj;
vi.sits to Falun and Upsala (fares 31 kr. 9l), 22 kr. lO 6.)- — 1st Day. From
Stockholm to Insjon, see below ; thence bv steamer via Leksand to (31/2 hrs. ;
on Sun. 41/4 lirs.) Mora (p. 37t)l. — 2nd Day. Railway to (1 hr.) Ovsa (p. 377 ;
or steamer thrice weekly in II/2 hr. ), and thence back to (2'/4 hra.) Rattvik
(p. 376). — 3rd Day. Excursions from Rattvik; in the evening by railway
in about 2V2 hrs. to Falun (p. 373j. — 4lh Day. Visit the copper-mines at
Falun; in the afternoon, railway to (4 hrs.) Gefle (p. 379). — 5th Day.
Railway to (l'/4 hr.) Elfkarleo (p. 378), visit the waterfall there, and proceed
by railway to (2'/2 hrs.) Upsala (p. 357). — 6th Day. Upsala, returning in
the evening to Stockholm. — A day may be saved by leaving Gefle by the
early train and not stopping at Elfkarleo. In this case 7 hrs. are available
for seeing Upsala, or 11 if the slow train in the evening be chosen for
the return to Stockholm.
From Stockholm to (66 Kil.^ Upsala, see p. 354. — 79 Kil.
Vdnge; '6%\i\\. Aland ; 100 Kil. Vittinge ; 107 Kil. Morgongafva,
with ahandoned iron-works; 113 Kil. Heby.
128 Kil. Sala (170 ft. ; Stads-Hotel; Hotel Sala), on the Saga,'
is a town of 5900 inhah., famous for its great Silfoergrufva, or
silver-mine. The annual yield, now much reduced, is about
88,000 oz., besides large quantities of lead. The mine is about
'2'/-2 Kil. to the S.W. of the town, and may be visited at any hour
on week-days (apply at the 'Grufkontor', or oflice). At the Sala
Hytla on the Sala Damm, to the N. of the town, the interesting
processes of reflning the silver ore may he seen.
Sala is the junction of railways to TiUberga (p. 367) on the S., and
to (f)9 Kil ) Ilagastrom {Gefle; p. 379) on the N. The latter crosses the
Dal- Elf at (53 Kil.) Ovsingn, where it forms a fall.
138 Kil. Broddbo; 150 Kil. Rosshyttan.
161 Kil. Krylbo (_260 ft. ; Jernviigs Hotel ^' Restaurant), where
we reach the Dal-Elf, the historic frontier-river of Dalarne, is the
junction for TiUberga via Ramnds (p. 367). We change carriages
here for Borlange.
About 2 Engl. M. to the E. of Krylbo, near Brunnbcick, a monument
commemorates the first decisive defeat of the Danes ('Jutar") by the ad-
herents of Gustavus Vasa, in 1521.
'Brunubiicks elf ar val djup, ocksa bred,
Der siinkte vi sa manga Jutar ned.
SS kordes Danskar ur Sverige.'' (Old Ballad.)
(Brunnback's river is deep and broad; there we sank so many Jutes.
Thus the Danes were driven from Sweden )
165 Kil. Avesta on the Dal-Elf, with large iron-works; 184 Kil.
Hedemora (Hot. Thure), a small town with 1700 inhab.; 191 Kil.
Vikmanshyttan ; 198 Kil. Kullsveden, whence a branch-line diverges
Lake SUjan. LEKSAND. 56. Route. 375
to BUpbery, with iron - mines. — 200 Kil. Sater (Stadi- Hotel),
founded by Gustavus Adolphiis. with 550 inhab. ; near it are the
TptQtty Satersdal and the Bispbergs Klark, with a fine view. — 211 Kil.
Oustafs Tuna. To the left, near (^218 Kil.") iSfora Tuna, lies the
Rommeheide, the drill-ground of the Dal Regiment.
225 Kil. Borlange (p. 372), the junction of the Rergslagernas
Railway to Gotenburg and Falun (p. 371; to Falun, 23 Kil. in
■V3-lV4hr.).
The 'Siljan Railway' follows the course of the Dal-EU, via
Tjerna and Lennheden. The valley contracts ; on the right are pic-
turesque rocky hills. We cross the Dal-Elf and reach (23(i Kil.)
Dufnns (530 ft.). — 246 Kil. Djuras (555 ft.) lies near the con-
fluence of the W. and E. Dal-Elf (not seen from the railway).
262 Kil. Insjon {Hotel, with skjuts-station), near the small lake
of the same name, through which the Oster Dal-Elf flows. The
train goes on to the stearaboat-quay.
Lake Siljan.
Stkamboat once daily on week-days, in June, July, ami August, from
Insjon via Leksand to (31/2 hrs.) Mora (fare 272, IV4 ki-.j and once daily to
l'/4 hr.) Leksand only (59, 30o.); on Sun. once from Insjon via Lcksand
and Kattvik to (43/4 hrs.) Mora, and once via Leksand to ('23/4 hrs-) RciUvik
[yi-i kr., 80 6). Steamers also ply 5 times a week between Mora and
(t'/a hr.) Orsa , twice a week between Mora and Riittrik, etc. No extra
charge tor return-tickets valid on day of issue r)nly ; a fare and-a-half for
return-tickets valid for a fortnight. — Good restaurant on board the
steamer (D. 2 krj.
We first steer up the Osier Dal-Elf, passing between huge rafts
of timber on their way to the sea. In 1/2 ^"^^ we reach —
Leksand (iVya Hotel, at the harbour, R. from l'/.^, B. l'/4,
D. 2 kr. ; Gastgifvareyard, near the church), on the O^tervik, a bay
of Lake Siljan. The large church stands embosomed in trees at the
discharge of the tJster Dal-Elf from the lake. On Sunday mornings
we have a good opportunity here of seeing the peculiar costumes of
the natives. The h'dringbery, Vjo M. to theN., to the right of the
Rattvik road, commands an extensive view, best by evening-light.
About 2 M. to the E. rises the Tibbleberg ; and I72 ^^- to the S.
is the Kfillbery, with a belvedere.
*Lake Siljan (540 ft.), 'Dalarncs Oga' (the eye of Dalecarlia),
25 M. long, T M. broad, and enclosed by gently sloping and partially
wooded banks, owes much of Its interest to the riparian inhabit-
ants, who have preserved many of their primitive characteristics,
though here too the assimilating tendency of modern times has be-
gun to make itself felt. The Dalecarlians, especially the inhabitants
of the Siljansdal, formed the backbone of Sweden's fighting power
under Gustavus Vasa, and the bravery and love of liberty of this
region has remained celebrated down to modern times. Forestry,
cattle-raising, and agriculture are the principal occupations of the
people. They are generally poor, owing to the great subdivision
376 Route 56'. MORA. Lake
of the land, but they support themselves by making watches, bells,
furniture, grindstones, and other objects in their own houses (hus-
slojd). Many of the young men (Dalkarlar) and young 'women
( Dalkullor) seek employment in otlier parts of the country, and
return with their earnings to settle in their native province.
The steamboat reaches LakeSiljan in about '^^hr. from Leksand.
To the left is the Bjorkherg, rising from the middle of the pen-
insula of Siljansncis. To the right opens the bay of Rdttvik^ at
the head of which lies (1 V4"1V2 li""- i'^om Leksand) —
HatUik (* Tourist Hotel, tviohouses, R. l'/2-3; B. orS.l 1/2, D-2,
pens. 4-6 kr. ; Karlsviks Hotel), the most beautiful point on the
lake, in a fertile district. Railway- station, seep. 377. On the
lake is a good batliing-establishment. About 1 M. to the N.W., also
on the lake, is the old church of Rattvik, where, as at Leksand, the
traveller has an opportunity of seeing the local costumes on Sun,
mornings. Beside the church is the Va$a Stone. To the E., at the
parsonage, is a fine point of view. A monument on the neighbouring
Hbkhery commemorates the jurist ,Toh. Stiernhock (1596-1673).
Walks. Along Ihe road to Vikarbyn (p. 377), beyond the church, as f;ir
;is (2 Kil.) the village of SJurberg. The road to the right at Sjurberg leads
to Xitlfjo, with a terracotta factory. — To the S., by Ihe road to Leksand
(p. 375), to the belvedere of VidahUck (a walk of i hr. ; rfmts.). — To the
belvedere at Plintsbevg, to the W. of the Leksand road, about 12 Kil. from
Rattvik and 10 Kil. from Leksand.
A .'mail steamer for lake-excursions may be hired at Rattvik.
On week-days the steamer steers direct to the N. end of the lake.
The lake narrows at the large island of [13/4-2 hrs. from Rattvik
or Leksand) Sollero , to the W. of which rises the Gcsundaberg
(11*25 ft.). On the bay of Sa.ivlk, at the N. end of the lake, lies —
Tff.OT?i (Mora Hotel, R. IV2-2V2, E. or S. I'^l^r. ; Hot. Uustaf
Vasa), with a railway-station (p. 317), and an old church with a
conspicuous spire. The 'klockstapel' beside tlie churcli commands
a line view. To the N.E. of the church the Ostra Dal-Elf joins the
broad discharge of the Orsa-Sjo; on its E. bank lies Mora-Noret,
a railway-station (p. 377) united by a loop-line with the station
at Mora.
Many reminiscences of Guslavus Vasa are connected with this district.
Near Mora is the Klockgropsbacke , from which Gustaviis once addressed
the people. At Ulmeland^ '/2 br. to the S., a small building occupies the
site of the cellar in which the wife of Tomt Mats Larsson concealed
Gustavus from his Danish pursuers, having covered the entrance with a
beer-vat. The room in the interior is adorned with three pictures by
Hockerl, E. Bergh, and Charles XV. — The Cliristineberg , '/i hr. from
Mora, is a fine point of view.
From Moka to Elfdalen, 41 Kil., railway in 2 hrs., up the valley of
the Ostra Dal-Elf. Blyberg possesses some good porphyry-quarries. — From
Elfdalen a road, willi 'fast' skjuts-stations, leads to (ca. 170 Kil.) Sydetid,
on the Famund.'ijo (p. 77).
From MoRA-NoRt/r (p. 377) to Christinehamn, 223 Kil., railway in 9 hrs.
(fares 14 kr. 55, 10 kr. 10 6). — The line crosses the broad discharge of the
Orsasjo to (2 Kil.) Mora. The other intermediate stations are of little im-
portance: Vika, Vimo, Gcifctinda, Briiitbodanie (junction of a branch-line to
Malung), Van. — 73 Kil. Vansbro, on the Vestra Dal-Elf, which the railway
Siljan. ORSA. f>6. Route. 377
follows as far as Trekdrii. — Vakern, Sagen, iVcva , 0/orscn, Vermlaiids
Rdmen, Lesjofors, Lrtiigbansdnde, Langbanshytlan. — 165 Kil. Pcrsberg, on the
yngen-SJo, has ircm-niines. — 170 Kll. Nyhytlan is Ihe juncfiim of a slmrt
branch-line to Filipstad and Finshytfan "(5 and 7 Kil. ; p. 372). — 176 Kil.
Gammalkroppa. — 180 Kil. Ilerr/iull , where we cross the Kil and Falun
railway (p. 372); Ni/kvoppa; Sior/ors, all with iron-mines. JVdisiindet, on
llic Ulirellern-/<Jd; SJiidndan. — 223 Kil. Christinnhamn^ see p. 313.
Five times a week the steamer steers under the just-mentioned
railway-bridge, and ascends the river, barely 3 Kil. long, that
connects Lake Siljan with the Orsasjo. To the left is the mouth of
the Ostra Dal-Elf. The steamer crosses the Orsasjo, 14 Kil. in
length , to —
Orsa (560 ft.; Jemvcigs-Hotel, fair), with an old church. Tlic
extensive forests in the neighbourhood, belonging to the commune,
maintain a large trade in timber, the annual value of which is
estimated at 300,000 kr. At the N. end of the lake, 3 Kil. from
Orsa by rowing-boat (1 V4 ^r.) or 6 Kil. by road, are the povphyry-
works of Backa. As far to the N.E. is the village of Slackmora,
commanding extensive views.
A marked path from Backa ascends the (2'/2 hrs.) Fruksfis (1755 ft ;
wide view), on the top of which is a chalet.
From Orsa to Bollnas (p. 380), 118 Kil., railway in 6 hrs. (fares
7 kr. 10, 4 kr. 75 i'l.). Tlie line traverses a district abounding in forests
and lakes, but is of little importance except for tourists desiring to pro-
ceed to the N. l)v the main line.
From Orsa to Gefle vih Falun.
191 Kil. Railway (Gefle-Didn Jernvdj) to Falun in 4-5 hr,^ (fares 5kr. 40,
3 kr. 60 (i.), to Oefle in 73/.i hrs. (10 kr., 6 kr. 35 (')•). The fast trains have
lira wing-room and restaurant cars.
The railway skirts the E. bank of the Orsasjo, with pretty views
of the lake and of the hills to the W. — 14 Kil. Mora-Noret is the
station for Mora (p. 376), on tlie E. side of the river. We then
traverse a well-cultivated district. Beyond (22 Kil.) Fa the line
approaches close to Lake Siljan. — 30 Kil. Garsas; 38 Kil. Sttirrisnas.
— 45 Kil. Vikarbyn, with fine lake-view.
52 Kil. Rattvik, see p. 376. — The railway soon quits the lake
and runs inland through fir-woods, via (59 Kil.) Vestgr'irde. —
68 Kil. SUitthery; 76 Kil. Sagmyra, on the Arbo-Sjo ; 89 Kil.
Grgcksbo, with a paper-mill, on the Grycken-SjiJ; 93 Kil. Btrgnjnrden.
' 101 Kil. Falun Norra Station (383 ft.). — 102 Kil. Falun Slkira
Station, the principal station of Falun and the junction for the
I'crgslagernas Jcrnvag (p. 371).
Skirting the N. bank of the liunnsjo, the. train reaches (107 Kil.)
A'oMna,? (365 ft.), a place with 2000 inliab. and large iron-works
and saw-mills. We then begin to ascend through wood to the highest
point of the line (720 ft. ). — 135 Kil. Korsan(olb ft.), on the Hyn-
Sjo; 139 Kil. Hofors, on the Hoa, both with large iron-works.
156 Kil, Stonnk (235 ft.) is the junction of the N. State Railway
(p. 379).
378 Route 57. ORBYHUS. From Vpsala
162 Kil. Kunysgardcn 1210 ft.), near the Storsjo , has iron
works. — 171 Kil. Sandviken (5000iiihab.) has the oldest and largest
Bessemer steel-works in Sweden. — From (178 Kil.) For»backa
(210 ft.) branch-line to the (.3 Kil.) iron-works of the same name.
— 185 Kil. Valho (148 ft.) ; branch-line to the Vackmyra Stilfil-
fabrik. — 188 Kil. Hayaslrom, the junction of the line from Sala
(p. 374).
194 Kil. Gefle, see p. 379.
57. From Upsala via Gefle to Ockelbo
(Brdcke^ Ostenwid).
152 Kil. Railwat to (114 Kil.) Oefle in 31/2 hrs. (fares 6 kr. 85, 4 kr.
60 o.); from Gefle to (38 Kil.) Ockelbo in lV4-'2a/4 hrs. (fares 2.kr. 30, 1 kr.
65 0.). There is usually a Ions detention at Gellc. — Travellers to and
from the Nurrland (R. 58) can make connection at Ockelbo, so that the more
liicturesque route via Gefle may be chosen in preference to Ihe State
Railway. Restaurant cars attached to the trains.
Upsala, see p. 367. — The train at first follows the course of
the Fyrisa. 4 Kil. Gamla Upsala, with the Kungshogar to the left
(p. 361); 12 Kil. Stor-Vreta. Beyond (20 Kil.) Vattholma is the
chateau of Salsta, erected by Nlc. Tessin, and now occupied by a
joint-stock company ('Vattholma Jernbruk'). 26 Kil. Skyttorp ;
38 Kil. Vendel, on the Vendel-Sjo.
43 Kil. Orbylius. The chateau, now the property of Count de
la Gardie and Baron Klingspor, belonged for nearly two centuries
to the Vasa family and was fortified by Gustavus. It was here that
his half-insane son Eric XIV. was poisoned by order of his brother
John III. on 25th Feb., 1577.
Fkom ORBTHns TO Dannemoka, 9 Kil., branch-line in 20 min. (fare
55 or 40 6.). — The Mines of Dannemora, v?hich yield the best iron in
Sweden, occupy an area of 2M. in length by 60-380 yds. in width. They
lie 26-33 ft. below the level of the Grufsjo, against the encroachment of
which they are protected by a massive wall of granite. The Un^karU-
gru/van and Jimgfrugrufvan shafts are over 500 ft. in depth. — Vsltrby,
\?li M. to the E. , with a fine mansion, a park, a steam-hammer and
other works, and a church, is quite a little town in itself. — The mines
of Leufsta or Lofsta are about 20 M. to the N.
From Dannemora the train runs on to (39 Kil.) Hargshamn, on the
Baltic, in 2'/2 hrs. more (fares 2 kr. 95, 1 kr. 95 o.).
48 Kil. Tobo; 61 Kil. Tierp , on the Tierpsa, in a fertile dis-
trict. Numerous iron-works, 69 Kil. Orrskog; branch-line to the
great iron-works of Soderfors on the Dal-Elf, driven by the falls
of the river. 81 Kil. Marma. In the neighbourhood is an artillery
range. The country is well wooded.
The train crosses the Dal-Elf by means of a bridge of six arches
and a long viaduct, and immediately afterwards reaches —
88 Kil. Elfkarleo (Jernviigs-Hotel). A carriage-road descends on
the left bank of the Dal-Elf to the (1 i/.i Kil.) Tourist Hotel (R. 2 kr. ;
restaurant; carr. from the station, only if ordered beforehand.
to Ockelbo. GEFLE. 57. Route. 379
50 (3.), close to Karl den Trettondes Bro, spanning the river be-
low the beautiful *ElfkaTlehy Waterfall (4y ft. high and 250 ft.
broad), of which the garden of the Tourist Hotel commands the
best view. The Laxij, to the W., and the Flako , to the E., here
divide the river into the three arms Kungsadran, Mellanfallet, and
SlorfaUet. On the Laxo . accessible by a bridge, is a military
excrcise-grouTid. Fine views. Important salmon-fishery. On the
right bank, 1 1/2 M. farther on, is the church of Elfkarlehy.
98 Kil. Skutskar (lAoyA's Agent, Mr. G. Sundbery), the next
railway-station , a Haltic port with 1400 inhab. and saw-mills,
belonging to the Falun Kopparbergs I'ergslag (p. 378). The timber
floated down the Dal-Elf in rafts is shipped here. (Steamboats to
Gefle, etc.) — 9!1 Kil. Hamas, on the Baltic , with a fine harbour,
iron-fnrnace=, and saw-mills. lOiJKil. Furnvik, a sea-bathing resort.
114 Kil. Gefle (pron. yavela). — Hotels. "Grand Hotel, Noiia
Strandgatau, opened in 1901, with lift, electric light, and baths, R from
'i'/j, B. I'/i, 1*. 3 kr. ; Stads-Hotel, Radhiis-Esplanaden; Centrai- Hotel,
Xygatan, very fair. — British Vice-Consul & Lloyd's Agent, Mr. R. Carrick.
Gefle, a thriving commercial and manufacturing place, with
30, 100 inhab. and two railway-stations (Central Station and Sodra
Station), is the chief outlet for the timber and metal yielded by
Gcslrikland, Helsinyland, and Ddlarne. The town, situated on the
Gepea, has been almost entirely rebuilt since the great fire of
1809, which destroyed the quarter on the N. bank. Nygatan leads
to the pretty liadhus Esplanade, with its two fountains and the
Theatre and the liadhiis at the ends. Farther on is the Residens of
the provincial governor. To the AV.. on the S. bank of the Gefiea,
is the Stadslriidgard , or public park, with the Strbmdalen Restau-
rant. Large Shipbuilding Yards. Pleasant trip by steam-launch to
the fishing-village of Bonan, to the N.E.
A branch-liiKj runs from the ^outh Station to (5 Kil.) BomMs, with large
timber-yards. — Fr, ra Gefle to Falun, fee pp. 378, 377; to Sala, see p. 374.
The railway from Getle to Ockelbo passes no importaTit stations,
and traverses no interesting scenery until near Ockelbo. — 118 Kil.
Stromshro, with cotton-factories, is a suburb of Gefle. 122 Kil.
.■\binjgeby ; 127 Kil. Brannsagen; 131 Kil. Osldttfors ; 136 Kil. Ra-
hdilan; 142 Kil. Koiforsen. — 152 Kil. Ockelbo, see p. 380.
58. From Stockholm via Upsala, Ockelbo, and Bracke
to Ostersund, Storlien, and Trondhjem.
S5i Kil. To Storlien Swedish Norra Stambana, thence to Trondhjem
Norwegian Railway. Kailwat in 2G1/3-56 hrs. (fares 31 kr. 46, 20 kr. 75 6.;
from Upsala, 27 kr. 45, 18 kr. 10 6.). The e.xpress-t rains run only in sum-
mer. Passensiers by the slow trains sleep at Bollncis and at Ostevsund. —
This is the shortest route between Stockholm and Trnndhjem. Though
the through-journey may seem long, tlie sleeping arrangements are so con-
venient and the restaurants at the chief stations so satisfactory, that it
may be accomplished without any special fatigue. Travellers, however,
who are interested iu the country, are rec"mmended to break the journey
380 Route 58. OCKELBO. From Stockholm
at several puinfs, in spite of the slightly enhanced cost. The grandest
scenery is to be seen between Bollnas (aee below) and Rams jti (p. 38t ; a night-
stage in both directions by the express-trains), and between Uracke (p. 381)
and Storlien (p. 386). — For tlie advantages of b>nt;-dislance ticlicts, seep. xix.
Travellers who desire to make the journey lictween Upsala and Ockelbo
by the more attractive route via Gefle (R. 51) must say so on taking their
tickets.
From Stockholm to (66 Kil.) Upsala, see p. 354. Thence to
(161 Kil.) Krylbo, see p. 374.
Beyond Krylbo we cross theDal-Elf by a bridge 740 ft. long and
traverse a rich mining district. The scenery becomes grander and
more severe; orchards, lime-trees, and even thatched roofs are no
longer to be seen. 165 Kil. Jularho; 171 Kil. Fors; 179 Kil. Mors-
hyttan (junction of a light railway to Nns; 12 Kil.); 185 Kil.
Horndal; 190 Kil. Byvalla (light railway to Langshyttun, 28 Kil.);
202 Kil. Hastbo; 209 Kil. Torsaker.
219 Kil. Storvik (235 ft. ; *Rail. Restaurant ij Jernvags-Hotel,
D. 21/2 kr.), junction of the Gefle and Falun railway (p. 377).
The train now traverses the district of Geslrikland, in parts
well wooded and fertile. Numerous small iron-works. 226 Kil.
Ashamm-tr;'2Sb Kil. Jlirho, with a church.
257 Kil. Ockelbo, with a large church and extensive iron-works,
is the junction of the line to Upsala and Gefle (R. 67), and is con-
nected by branch-lines with Norrsundet on the Baltic, and with
Linghed via the iron-mines of Vintjdrn. Forests and moors now
occupy the view. — 274 Kil. Lingbo, on a small lake of the same
name, is the first station in the province of Helsingland. 284 Kil.
Holmsveden. Before the next station we have a glimpse of the pretty
Bergvik-Sjo, to the right. — 300 Kil. Kilafors.
From Kilafors to Soderhamn and Stugsund, 36 Kil.. branch-railway
in l3/4-'2 hrs (fares 1 kr. 75, 1 kr. 20 li). We cross the Ljiisnc-Elf and
reach (7 Kil.) Landa. — 18 Kil. Bergvik (155 ft.), situated on the Bergviks-
strom, by which the Ljusnan issues from the Bergvik-.Sjo*. — 21 Kil. Vyskje,
on the Marmen-Sjo ; 2l Kil. Kinstahy. — 33 Kil. Hoderhmnn , fct p. 3'Jl. —
36 Kil. Slngswid, the port of Soderhamn.
Beyond Kilafors the main line crosses the Voxna-Elf, the chief
feeder of the Ljusne, and skirts the Varpen-Sjo.
317 Kil. Bollnas (185 ft. ; Jernvdgs-Hotel ; Gastgifvaregdrd^, a
considerable place (about 500 inhab.) in a picturesque situation;
with several factories and a deaf and dumb asylum.
From Bollnas to Orsa on Lake Siljan, see p. 377.
The line ascends the valley of the Ljusne-Elf, whicli forms a
chain of small lakes. Best views to the right.
332 Kil. Arhra (370 ft. ; *Hotel, with baths, R. V/2 kr.), on the
right bank of the Ljusne. A bridge, spanning the picturesque falls
on this river, leads to the wooded Forso.
Beyond (337 Kil.) Vallsla (hotel) the railway runs between the
Asberg (left) and the Orsjo (right), and reaches (358 Kil.) Karsjii,
on the Tefsjo.
365 Kil. Jerfso (440 ft. ; *Hotel)^ prettily situated, is one of the
to Trondhjem. ANGE. 55. Route. 381
chief places in Ilelsinglaiid. To the right is the church, on an island
in the Ljusne; and in the distance rises the Jerfsoklack (1350 I't.),
ascended in 2 hrs., with snide (1 kr.). To the leff, 1 M. above the
station, is the Ojeherg (ll'iO ft.), with a belvedere.
Farther on the best views are to the left. — At Edanyefallet we
cross the Ljusne-Elf.
380 Kil. Ljusdal (430 ft.; Jernvags- Hotel, with restaurant, B.
I'/.j kr. ). The church contains a carved altar brought from Germany
during the Thirty Years' War. Ancient 'klockstapel', visible from
the railway.
Fkom Ljisual to Hldiksvai.l, 62 Kil., railway in 1-74-2 hrs. (fares
3 kr. 30, 2 kr. 20 6.). This line traverses a picturesque region. — G Kil.
Hi/bo (404 ft.), on tlie HybosjU, with a timber trade. The line passes be-
tween the OfjitjensjS (right) and llie Grytjesherg (1040 ft.) and skirts the
SiOmnensJu and the LanyenfjS. — 27 Kil. Delsbo (240 ft. ; 'Hotel) lius at the
W. end of the lake Hodra Dellen, which is connected by a canal with the
Norra Dellen and is traversed by steamers. — 31 Kil. Fredrikfors. Then two
tunnels. — 45 Kil. Ncisviken, at the S.E. end of the Sodra Dellen. — 50 Kil.
Forsa, on the Kyrksjo. In the neighbourhood are tlje church of the same
n:ime, and a so-called 'Gillestuga', an ancient pleasure-resort of a kind
now found nowhere else in Sweden. — 62 Kil. lUuUksvall (p. 392l.
At Ljusdal the main line quits the Ljusne-Elf, in the valley of
whicli a carriage-road ascends to the W. to Kurbble (59 Kil.),
proceeding thence to Malmngen (230 Kil. farther), on the Norwegian
frontier (road to Rwraas, see p. 77). To the W. of Malmageii, on
the Swedish side of the border, is the frequented FjaUncis Sana-
torium. — The train skirts the Vexnansjo and, beyond (387 Kil.)
Tallasen, the Letsjo ; and then crosses a long embankment between
tlie Blickesjo (left) and the Storsjo (650 ft. ; right). — 408 Kil. Hen-
nan, on a lake of that name, the E. bank of which we skirt. —
428 Kil. liamsfi (690 ft.). At the N. end of the Hennansjo rises
the liaimjo-Kyrka. This whole district, once dreaded as a wild 'Nor-
danskog', is full of sombre beauty.
The railway attains its summit-level (1080 ft.) before reaching
(44G Kil.) Mellamjo (1040 ft.), on the lake of that name. — 464 Kil.
Ostavall (120 it.), the first station in the district of ^/eiie/paii, is
situated on Lake AUlern, whicli the line skirts. The train crosses
two iron bridges over the Ljungan, the discharge of Lake Aldern,
and beyond (473 Kil.) Albij rounds a wide curve to —
484 Kil. Ange (550 ft. ; *Jernvags-Holel, with restaurant, II. 11/2-2,
n. I'/oi I^--! S- I'/i l<r., coffee and bread 50 o.), where carriages
are changed, except by tlie express-trains. The passengers by some
of the slow trains spend the night here. Ange is the junction for
SandsvuU (p. 392).
The line now traverses a wooded mountain-region, recalling the
boundless solitudes of the 'Upper Norrland', enters the province
of Jemtland, and, on the E. bank of Lake liefsunden, reaches —
515 Kil. Bracks (956 ft.; Jernviigs- Hotel, with excellent restau-
rant, charges as at Ange), the junction for Lulea (p. 396). A spare
382 Route 58. OSTERSUND. From Stockholm
hour or so may be spent in visiting the 'Uppfordringsverk' , or
apparatus for raising and entraining the timber floated down in rafts.
The train is carried along the E. bank of the Refsundsjo by em-
bankments and cuttings, and beyond (626 Kil.) Stafvre crosses the
Gima, the discharge of the lake, by which large quantities of timber
are floated to the Indals-Elf (p. 387). At f539 Kil ) Gallo, at the
N. end of the Refsundsjo. the line turns to the AV. and crosses a
wooded height to the Arvikssjb, which is seen on the left. — The
name of (553 Kil.) Pilgrim^tad (955 ft.), at the N. end of the Ar-
vikssjo, recalls the mediaeval pilgrimages to the tomb of .St. Olaf, at
Trondhjem (p. 221). — We proceed through a bleak mountain
region, passing the picturesque Locknesjo, on the W. bank of which
is the church of Lockne.
The line next reaches the large *Stor8J6, amidst beautiful scenery
in which the dark woods contrast finely with the yellow corn-fields.
The comparative fertility of the soil here is due to the Silurian
slate-formation, which extends hence to Storlien. The station of
(571 Kil.) Brunflo lies 115 ft. above the level of the S.E. arm of
the lake, along which the railway runs. On the opposite bank
appears the church of Mariely, and behind rise the Oviksfjall
(p. 383), the Areskutan (p. 384), and other mountains.
586 Kil. Ostersuud. — Arrival. Besides tlie ilctin Station, to tlie
E., where the holel-carriages meet the trains (50 6.), Ostersund has also a
West Station, near the market-place and the steamboat-quay, but -with no
luggage-oflice.
Hotels. 'Gkand Hotel, Stora Torget, y^^l- from the ttation, R. 2'/--
51/2 kr., B. 60, onin. 50 5., with cafe'-restaurant, landlord speaks Knglish;
.Iernvags-Hotel, Stor-Gatan, near the Main Station.
Baths (warm and cold) in the Badhus, near the West Station.
Post (fe Telegraph Office, at the corner of Drottning-Gatan and Kiipman-
Gatan.
Ostersund (910 ft.) is an entirely modern town with about 7000 in-
hab., wooden houses, and broad streets, badly paved but lighted
with electricity. It is picturesquely situated on the E. 'sund' of the
Storsjo, facing the mountainous island of Frosij. On the side next
the lake the town is skirted by an Esplanade, with the Residens of
the provincial governor.
An iron and stone bridge, 1420 ft. in length, built in 1897 to
supersede the former wooden bridge, connects the Esplanade with
Froso. A Runic Stone on Frosb, immediately to the right of the
bridge, commemorates 'Austmader, son of Gudfast', who built the
first 'bridge here and christianized Jotalont' (Jemtland). The road
diverging to the right leads to the Villa Fjdllmann (always open to
visitors) and other villas at the foot of the Ostberg. The main road,
trending to the left from the bridge, ascends between the Ostbery
(1465 ft. ; right) and the Oneberg (left). The ascent of the Ostberg
takes about 1 hr. ; we diverge to the right about 3/4 M. from the bridge
and ascend past a brewery. The belvedere (10 0.) on the top com-
mands an extensive, but not specially picturesque, survey of niotin-
to Trondhjem. UJERPEN. 58. Route. 388
tains and lakes. The main road goes on, first descending, tlien ascend-
ing, to the new clmrch of Froso, Imilt in 181)8 (about 4 M. from the
bridge), with an ancient 'klockstapel' and a famous ■view. At the
gard oi Stocke, 1/2 M- farther on, is the Stocketiit (25 0.), a belvedere
of the Swedish Tourists' Uiiioii, commanding beautiful views across
the lake to the mountains on the Norwegian frontier. About I1/4M.
farther on are the skjuts-station of Fr'dsd and a camp of the Jemtland
Rifles, whose annual exercises usually take place in August (restau-
rant opened then).
The Steamboat Excuksions ou the Storsjo are said to be attractive:
e.g. past the Froso and then by the S. arm of the lake (40 Kil. long) ta
Berg (1^1-i kr.); or to the W. via Marby and Ualhn to Qvittsle (2 kr.),
about 5 Kil. from the railway-station of Mattmar (see below). Steamers
IVoiii Ostersund several times weekly on both routes, returning in each case
on the following day.
Beyond Ostersund the line skirts the W. bank of the Storsj;>,
with a fine view, on the left, of the lake and the fertile district of
Kodii, beyond which rises the Ovikstjall. — 597 Kil. Tciny. —
Before reaching (607 Kil.) Krokom we cross the Indals-Elf, which
issues from the lake and forms a waterfall on the right. — Farther
on, to the right, appears the Ndldsj'O, with a fine mountain-back-
ground. At the station of (618 Kil.) Ndlden we cross the Fax-Elf.
which connects the Naldsjo with the Alsensjo; beyond (624 Kil.)
Ytteran (Hotel & Curhaus) we cross the Yttera, and skirt the Storsjii
for the last time to (633 Kil.) Tranysriken. — 664 Kil. Mattmar
(1015 ft.) has a skjuts-station.
Pa.ssing Ocke, at the W. end of the OckesJiJ, the line ascends
the valley of the Indals-Elf, which descends from the Norwegian
frontier bearing various names and forming a chain of lakes. At this
point it is known as Skeldern, and just before Morsil it forms the
Eyyforsame, seen to the left of the line.
655 Kil. Morsil (1080 ft.; Jemodys-Hotel , with restaurant;
Dalyard-JIot(l.,hoi\i very fair; iJr.Horney's Saiiatorium), a frequented
health-resort, is also the starting-point for the visit to the Oviksfjdll
(4475 ft.) , the rounded mountain-group to the S.W. of the Storsjo,
visible from tlie railway even to the S. of Ostersund.
The railway skirts the N. bank of the Lilensjo, below the high-
road, then crosses a bay of tiie lake by means of a long embankment,
and reaches —
665 Kil. Hjerpen (1065 ft.; Hotel, with Gastgifveri and 'Thing-
stuga', at the station, R. l'/'2-2, B. or S. l'/4, D- IV2 ^'^•, tolerable).
The village, with two saw-mills, lies 3/4 ^1- t<J the W., on the Hjer-pe-
strt'in, which is spanned by a long timber bridge.
From Hjekths to Kolaskn, fjJKil., 'skjuts" and steamers daily (throvigh-
tickct. 5 kr. 65 (i.l. We ascend the left bank of the Hjerpestrom with
'skjuts' to (11 Kil.) BoiUiset (inn), at the S. end of the mountain -girt
Kallsjd (i'ilS ft.). Steamers (restaurants on board) ply on tins lake to
(f) hr.s.) Kallsti-ai/i in the N. angle , via J/nsa Mejeri (Fdviken) , on the W.
tank , Kyrlibyn jKall), on the E., Hutu (hotel it pen.sion), on the W. : at the
>.'. base of the Are.sutkan (p. 38 J) ; TJoV, on the E. ; and Hwidet (inu), on
384 Route 59. . ARESKUTAN. From Stockholm
the W., where passengers for the Anjansjo (see below) disembark. — From
Kallstrom we walk to (■/■-■ M.) the Juvelnsjo; cross it by a steam-launch to
('/nhr.) Ackliiujsediit; walk to (1 M.) the Acklingsjii ; and take a rowing-boat to
Kolasen (1560 ft. ; " FjaUpension, R. IV2-21/2, ford 3 kr. per day, or B. 1, D. 2,
.S. 1 kr. ; often full in summer). Shooting and fishing in the neighl)Ourhood.
— A Lapp fair ('Lappmassan') is held three times in summer beaide the
chapel of Kola,<^en.
Fbom Hjeri'en to Levanger via Melen, a pretty but not specially
important journey of 2 days, the night being spent at Melen. To Sundet,
see p. 383. A road leads thence to the W. to (4 Kil.) Anjehem, on the
Anjansjii (1.375 ft.), on which the steamer 'Frei\ in connection with the
Kallsjo steamers, plies via BacksjSniiset, at the S. base of the Anjeskulan
{•3935 ft.), to (ii/i hrs.; fare li,4 kr.) Melen {Gaslgifieri, with skjuts-station).
From Melen a main road leads over the Norwegian frontier and along the
Bredvand (1685 ft.) to (16 Kil.) Sandviken (inn), thence past the Isvand and
across 'St Olafs IJridge', spanning its discharge, to (15 Kil.) iSulstueii,
(19 Kil.) Gariu<, (11 Kil.) Nes, and (14 Kil.) Levanger. Comp. p. 227.
The line crosses the Hjerpestrom, passes the churcli of Unders-
aker, and traverses a region of old moraines, with a view (left) of the
beautiful upper Rista Waterfall, on the Vnder.saker-Elf (Indsils-Eif).
The waterfall is easily reached in 72-^/4^'". from the station o( Hal-
land (*Peiis. Hedman, on the main road); we pass under the railway
to the W., cross the bridge, and ascend the right bank of the stream.
078 Kil. Lndersaker (123(5 ft. ; Gastgifveri). A carriage-road
leads hence on the right bank of the Braltlandsstrihn (Indals-Elf) to
Q] Kil.) the village of Edsasen (1510 ft.; *Tnn).
From Edsasen we may walk (with guide) over the Vdllitafjall (2990 ft.)
to the Otlsjo, cross the lake by rowing-boat, and follow the carriage-road
to Vallbo (about 28 Kil. from Undersaker), with a chapel and annual fair
for the Lapps (comp. above).
We now skirt the N. bank of the Aresjo, an expansion of the
Indals-Elf, with views, to the left, of the Renfjall, and, to the right,
of the Areskutan, here seeu at full length.
692 Kil. Are (1240 ft.; *Restaurant, behind the station, to the
\ett;*(:rWand Hotel Are, R. 2, B. II/2, D- ~, S- ^72 kr., English spoken;
Hotel Areskutaji, farther to the E., both often crowded iu summer;
private apartments), with an ancient church, is the most frequented
health-resort in Jemtland. Pleasant walks may be taken on the high-
road and^to the 'Paviljong' on the road to Totten.
The Areskutan (4645 „ ft.; guide, unneces.'ary, 3 kr.), the mafsive
mountain to the N. of Are, may be ascended in about 4 hrs., by a path
maintained by the Swedish Tourists' Union and provided with direction
boards, indicating the distance from the station and the height. At the
school-house (direction-board) we turn to the E. and enter the wooded
Morviksdal. To the right ia the Toithummeln, in front the Lillskutan, and
to the left the Mdrvikshummeln (2925 ft.; ascended in about I'/j hr. ; view
and refuge-hut). The path, bad at places and occasionally marshy, leads
on past the Svartberg and the GrSna Dal to the main summit, on which
is a refuge-hut. The view ranges from the Storsjii on the E. to the snow
mountains on the W., the Snasahogar and the Sylarne being specially
conspicuous; to the N. appear the Kallsjo, the Anjeskutan, and the chapel
of Kolasen (see above), to the W. the Tiinufors.
The descent (guide necessary) may be made via the abandoned copper
mine of BJelkeyrti/van, whence a carriage-road leads to (J Kil.) Ilvsa
(p. 383); 3 hr.s. in all (ascent 4 hrs.).
Beyond Are wo see the MuUfjiill on the right, ascended from
to Trondhjcin. ENAFOUS. 5*. Route. 385
Diileil (see below) in 'l\> lirs. Passing Teyefor.-:, with saw-mill ami
bridge, we reach —
700 Kil. Dufed (l'26r) It.; Jernvags-Hotd; Hotel MiiUfjallet,
3/4 M. to tlic K. of the station, English spoken), another health-resort,
with a modern church. Carriages may be hired at the hotels or from
Per Ericson ; the skjuts-station is 1 Kil. from the railway-station.
KxcuRsios TO THE Tannfors, 5-6 Lrs. there and back; carr. to the
Bodsjo, for 1-2 pars. 4, for 3 pars. 6 kr. ; carr. and pair 6-8 kr. The road,
hilly at first, loads past (3 Kil.) a conspicuous 'Minneslen', commemorat-
ing a detachment of 6500 Swedish troops, who under General Armfelt
penetrated into Korway in the summer of 1718, but on their retreat in
the folhiwing winter lost more than a third of their number through cold
and hunger. The waterfall seen farther on, (m the opposite side of the
valley, is the Qvarnafovs. We then cross the (4 Kil.) bridge of Sta, and
proceed through a bm^'ly forest-region to (12 Kil.) Bodsjoedet (refuge-hut),
where our coachman will find the boatman to ferry us over the Tdtinsjii
(about 1/2 hr. ; 1 kr., each addit pers. 50 6.). On the opposite bank is
another refuge-hut, whence we walk in 6 min. to a platform above the
Tannfors. The -Tinnfors, between the Tannsjci and tlie N'orensjo, is one
of the finest waterfalls in Sweden. It is over ICO ft. high and 230 ft.
broad, hut is divided into two arms by the BjOrnesten or 'bears' rock'.
The traveller should descend to the foot of the fall, in spite of the clouds
of spray, which render a waterproof essential.
The Road to Levasger leads from Bodsjoedet over the Bodsjosmid,
and along the N. bonk of the Bodfjo to (6 Kil.) SlaUtjarnsHigan, then via,
(21 Kil.) f^kaUtugan (good quarters) and across the Norwegian frontier to
(23 Kil.; pay for 80) Sulstuen. and thence as on p. 384.
The railway crosses the Dufeds -Elf (Indals-Elf) and ascends
flirongh a solitary forest-region. — 713 Kil. Gefsjo (1660 ft.), on
the lake of that name. The train crosses the stream issuing from
the Annsjii and entering the Gefsjo. To the left we enjoy a fine
view of the Bunnerfjall and the Snasahogar, and between them, in
the distance, appear the glaciers of the Sylarne. — 724 Kil. Ann,
on the Annsjo, on the S.AY. side of which appear the large Handol
waterfalls.
734 Kil. Enafors (1815 ft. ; Inns at the station and at the Ena-
forsholm, 5 min. distant) is the headiiuarters for several considerable
mountain-tours. 'J he Swedish Tourists' Union has arranged a definite
tariff for these with the guides Sven Jonsson and J. Johanss'n: for
1 pcrs. 2'/2 kr. per day, with horse 5 kr. ; for 2 pers. 3 kr. 13 0. Un-
lortunatcly the gnats are very troublesome on these routes; veils
are, therefore, necessary.
To ilie Handol Waterfall, 4-6 hrs. there and back (guide, who acts as
rower, o kr for l-'i pers., 4>/2 kr. for 3 pers.). We descend t-he river, cross
the Annsjij to the mouth of the HandSlfti, and ascend the left bank of
the streaiii via HandSl to (Vi l»r.) the lower fall (145 ft. in height). Few
travellers po on to the upper fall, which lies '/-' l^i"- farther on.
The Snasahogarne (4800 ft.), to the S. of Enafors, may be ascended
(with guide) in 4 hrs. '1 he view from the top embraces a barren^moun-
l^ain-sccne, with the Sylarne and the IlelagffjiHl to the S.. the Annsjo,
Areskulan, and Bunuerfjallen to the W., and other heights.
An excursion to the Sylarne, a mountain-ridge about 7 M. in length,
with several peaks and two glaciers (on the N.E. and S.E.), requires
not less than three days. Provisions and rugs must be taken; horse there
and I'ack likr. We proceed via the upper Handol Fall to the (8 hr^.)
Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 25
386 Route b'J. ERIKSLUND.
Tuvist-Uijddan (inn from July 15lh to Aug. Slst) at the E. base of the
titorsyUn (bl^Oii.) , the highest mountain in the {;rimp, commanding a
wide view. Next day we ascend the mountain (7 hrs. there and back),
and on the third day return to Enafiirs.
The railway continues to ascend ttuyond Enafors. Hugo snow-
yiloughs standing in sidings , and long snow-sheds protecting the
line indicate difficulties of the route in winter.
748 Kil. Storlien (1940 ft. ; Jernvays-Hotel, beside the station,
D. 2, S. 13/4 kr. ; Nya Hotellet, higher up, with view, pens.
31A2-5 kr., hoth very fair), the last station in Sweden (custom-house
examination, see p. 312), in a desolate mountain-region almost
destitute of trees, is a favourite resort, and is frequently overcrowded
at the height of summer. Excursions may be made hence to the
Brudslojan ('bridal veil'), a fall, 78 ft. high, on the Teotan, which
flows to the W. (1 hr. with guide), and to the top of the StenfjiiU
(2960 ft. ; 3 hrs. with guide), etc.
Carriages are changed here for the continuation of the journey
to Trondhjem, see pp. 226, 226.
59. From Ange to Sundsvall.
95 Kil. State Railway in 32/4 hrs. (fares 5 kr., o kr. 35 6.). „ This is
the so-called 'cross-line', which includes, however, the section from Ange to
Storlien.
Ange, see p. 381. — As far as Vattjom this line follows the
course of the Ljuiigan (pron. 'Yungan), down which large quan-
tities of timber arc floated to the Baltic. The scenery is mountainous
and picturesque.
14 Kil. Erikslund (385 ft.) is beautifully situated on the Bory^jo,
on the fertile N. bank of which, at the foot of the Ranklefven , is
seen the church of Borgsjo, witli an ancient 'klockstapel'. — The
railway crosses the Ljungan and passes several stations. — 28 Kil.
Fransta (260 ft.; Gastgifveri), on the Torpsjo. — We cross the
Ginm^ which descends from the N., forming here a waterfall 60 ft.
in height.
38 Kil. Torpshammar (260 ft.), prettily situated, has several
factories and an active trade. — 44 Kil. Viskan. — 54 Kil. Kdrfsta
(Gastgifveri) lies at the W. end of the Stodesjij (10 M. in length),
which the railway skirts on the N. to (69 Kil.) Nedansjb. We then
cross the BlakuUa and, once more skirting the Ljungan, reach —
77 Kil. Vattjom (207 ft. ; Gastgifveri), in the beautiful district of
Tuna. Vattjom is the junction of a branch-line to the iron-works
and saw-mill of Matfors, on a fall of the Ljungan. That river, after
flowing through Like Marmen farther on, enters the sea 10 Kil. to
the S. of Sundsvall.
83 Kil. Tofva (204 ft.). — We pass the church o{ Selanger on
the left and follow the course of the Selangera through a pictur-
esque country to —
95 Kil, Swidscall (see p. 392).
387
60. From Bispgarden to Suiidsvall by the Indals-Elf.
124 Kil. From Bispgarden to (12 Kil.) Edsel- I'lunak, Cauriage in
I'/i hr. (skjuts 2 kr. per pers.). Carriages usually meet the morning- train
fro'n the S. at BispgSrden station. — From Edset-Utanclc to StiiidsvoU.
Steamer in 9-10 hr.". ( fare o kr.), changing steamers twice on the journey. —
This trip is said to tic more interesting in the reverse direction (upstream;
14-16 hrs.). The boats leave Sundsvall on the arrival of the mornincr
.'teanier from Stockholm. The captain, if asked, will engage skjuts iVoni
Kdset to Bispgarden.
Bispgarden, see p. rif^S. — The road leads past the church of Fors
and the Gistgifveri of the same name (4 Kil. from the station), and
affords beautiful views of the Indals-Elf, which here forms the
Jlanneifors and the Stadsfors. At Utanede the road to the steamer
quay diverges to the W. and leads to —
11 Kil. Edset (proii. 'Esset'), in the parish of Utanede.
The Indals-Elf rivals the Angerman-Elf (p. 389) in grandeur
of scenery. The steamer 'Liden', on which we embark at Edset,
is small (restaurant) but has two powerful engines. The usual
number of revolutions of the screw is about 360 per minute, but
in ascending the rapids, such as the Utanedefors and (farther on) the
Sillrefors , 400 revolutions are sometimes necessary. With the
stream, these rapids are passed at the rate of l-i'/2 n^i'^- P^r Kil.,
but upstream only a few yards are gained per minute. The banks
are formed of beautifully wooded mountain-ridges.
38 Kil. (from Edset) Lidens Farja ('Ferry"), on the left bank.
Above are the church and the Gastgifvcri of Liden. — At the ferry
we change steamers and embark in the stern- wheeler 'Indalen'
(restaurant), built on the American plan.
About IV2 T*^il- below Liden Ferry (20 min. walk), on the right
bank, lies Gliman (no inn, but good quarters at various houses),
at which the 'Indalen' touches on the up journey and the 'Liden'
on the down journey (on request). Travellers who spend the night
here have an opportunity of inspecting the curious method by which
timber is brought down the Qlimaranna to the river. The timber,
which conies from Jemtland (p. 381), is sent by rail from the
llolmsji) to the Indal, and there, at the 'Vardshus' (25 min. from
the steamboat-pier), is transferred to a huge sloping 'flume', over
700 yds. long, down which it slides witli great rapidity, finally shoot-
ing through the air in a great curve before falling into the river.
Below Gliman the stream is covered with floating timber, through
which the steamer has to pick a way with great care. The river-bed
gradually widens, and the stream grows shallower. Curious abrupt
hills of sand and clay, known as Nipor, form the immediate banks,
while grey granitic mountains rise in the distance. A little more
than halfway to Bergelorsen we observe the church of Indal, on
the left bank. "We then pass beneath the wooden bridge of Kdfslu.
and reach —
25*
388 Route 01. BISPGARDEN.
83 Kil. Bergeforsen (no inn), where wc quit the steamer 'lu-
dalen'. A handsome inm Inidge of three arches spans the foaming
river here. About -400 men arc occupied in catchins; tlie floating
timber at the foot of the rapids and arranging it in the 'Sortcrings-
bomniar', according to tlie distinctive marks of the various proprietors
with which the trees arc provided before they quit the fonsts.
The 'Turlsten', a steamer adapted for both river and soa (restau-
rant on board), awaits the passengers below the rapids, a few inin.
from the landing-pier. The boat steers down the embouchure of
the Indals-Elf, via Stavreoiken and Lofudden, where the timber
rafts are made up, then crosses the bay of Kringelfjiirden^ passing
Vifstavarf, and finally turns to the S. through the Alno.nind^ bp-
tween the island of Aim and the mainluid. Large saw-mills may
be observed at Skdmnk^i at the mouth of the sound, and at nu-
merous other points. On the mainland appears the chnrch of tSkun.
112 Kil. Sundsvall, see p. 392.
61. From Biacke to Lulea.
665 Kil. Railway in tvpo days (fares 21 kr. 30, 14 kr. 20 ii.)- There
are no through-trains; Ihe night is spent at Vannas. Comp. p. xix. —
This very tedious journey leads through a monotonous region of devas-
tated forest-land, where millions of tree-trunks lie rotting on the ground.
The tiny human settlements are few and far between. At the railway
stations thousands of barrels of tar are to be seen, but no passengers. The
Sea Voyage (RR. 6'J, G4) is in every rcspeet preferable, but travellers
who merely desire to visit one of the two great rivers , the Indals-Elf
(R. 60) and the Angerman-Elf (R. 63), sho\ild take the railway to Bisp-
garden, and thence make the journey downstream via Edsct and the
Indals-Klf.
Briicke, see p. 381. — The line runs lirst to the N., then to the
N.E., passing several lakes. — 22 Kil. Nyhem (900 ft. J ; 35 Kil. Dock-
iriyr; 65 Kil. Kdlarne (inn). — To the left, at (67 Kil.) Hasjo., is a
church dating from 177'J, with a 'klockstapel' of 1690 (comp. p. 345).
80 Kil. Ragunda (570 ft.; inn). An omnibus (I kr.) plies to the
N. W. to (7 Kil.) Ragunda Kyrkosldtt, with a frequented hydropathic
establishment and the Hammar/'ors.
From Ragunda Kyrkosliitt wc may proceed to (14 Kil.) Doviken, then
along the beautiful Krangede.forsarne (3 M. long) to (16 Kil.) Slromsniis and
(20 Kil.) Stugubyn (inn), and thence bv a road with poor stations to (48 Kil.)
rUgrimUad (p. 382).
Beyond a tunnel we cross the Indals-Elf by a bridge 230 yds. in
length. Immediately to the right is the Doda Fall ('dead fall), a
curious rocky chasm with thirty 'giant's cauldrons' (p. 294), over
which the river formerly flowed, until, during a flood in 1796, it
broke through the moraine higher up. The train usually halts to
permit passengers to view the scene.
95 Kil. Bispgarden (570 ft.; *Jcrnvags-Hotel; For.'S Gastgifvare-
garden, 6 min. from the station, well spoken of) is the starting-point for
the descent of the Indals-Elf to Sundsvall (R. 60). About V4 M. to the
LANGSELE. 61. Route. 389
S. of the station is the Aipa (p. 387), a hill alTordlno- a pretty
glimpse into the deep ladal valley.
Ill Kil. (jraninge. — 121 Kil. Helgum (inn), starting-point for
an attractive two-tlays' excursion to liamsHe (6 kr. there and back).
TUe steamer 'Primus'', leaving Helgum in the morning, traverses the
IleUjwnsjiS (7 M. long) Ik Radamsbri/gciay and thence ascends the heautiful
Fttxe-Klf to (4 hrs.) Utanede. From Utanede we drive to (3 Kil.) ^""oj-dan-
uker(Edsele), and thence take the steamer 'Ramsele' (thrice daily) to (I'/'.-hr.)
the Ihriving village of Ramsele (FiirnlSf's Hotel).
From Ramsei.e to Norway, 6-8 days. A carriage-road leads via the
skjuts-stations of (2i Kil.) FUjn, (11 Kil.) Krokfor.<, and (14 Kil.) Stamsele,
and past several lakes, tu (22 Kil.) Strom (Inn), in a fertile region, with
post-office and telephone.
Strom is situated at the lower end of a chain of lakes, known as
S/rSms Valludal, on which small steamers ply thrice weekly. These hoals
may be hired at a fi-xed rate on other days. From Strom we first reach
the Nedre SJii (975 ft.), on which is (5-6 hrs.; fare 3 kr.) Bagaedet^ ^j-z M.
from Sjutsasen (quarters). Thence we proceed by the Ofre (Fogel) Sjij
and through the Kitrlsstrtim to (lV-'-2 hvs.) Hukafot (quarters), situated on
the Htamselevik. (Opposite is the mi.uth of the Hdllingsd^ a river which a
little farther up forma the HdlUngsa Fall (115 ft. in height), rivalling the
Tiinnfors in sublimity (rowing-lioat to the mouth of the river, 1 hr., then
IV2 hr.'s walk to the tourist-hut). The Stamselevik isTpsri ui Lake Hetligeln
(985 ft.), on which tbe steamer proceeds to (11/2-2 hrs.) (Idddide (toleraldc
quarters; telephone from Strom), near the church of Frostviken, 6 Kil.
IViim the Norwegian frontier.
A new road leads from Giiddede into Norway: 33 Kil. Stoviken, near
the Nordiikyrke (1485 ft.); 12 Kil. Sandmoen; 22 Kil. ilortentlund (good
quarters); 37 Kil. Formo, etc. (see p. 228).
131 Kil. Langsde (355 ft.; Jernviigs-TIotel) is the junction of a
branch-line (14 Kil., in '/a hr.; fares 76, 50j>.) which desceiuls rapidly
along the Faxe-Elf and then along the Angerman-PHf to Solleftett
(p. 394).
The main liiie crosses first the foauiing Faxe-Elf, then, a little
t'artlier on, the Angerman-Elf. The ^Fori^mo-Bro, the bridge over the
latter, is 270 yds. long and 154 ft. high, and spans the Edefors in
five arches. It is seen on the right by travellers in either direction.
151 Kil. Sehjo (460 It.), with a skjuts-station, is the starting
point for an excursion up the valley of the Angerman-Klf, which,
however, is perhaps more frequently begun from SoUeftea (comp.
p. :)93).
From Selsjo a High Road ascends on the left hank of the Angerman-
Rlf via the church of Reicle and the Tominipa, to (11 Kil.) Ilofren (Giist-
gifveri). We then go on via ligdsta (2 Kil. fromHofven; terminus of the
steam-launch 'Borup", see p. 395) to A'dsaker (Giistgifveri) near Adals Lldeii,
the (17 Kil.) skjuts-station of Vastunhdck, and the (1 Kil. farther) Ho/el
Vdslanbuck, whence visits may be j aid to the Ndindfore, with an important
salmon-fishery, to the Hlomslernipa, with view, and tj the huge *Kil/ors.
'yiie road to the (8 Kil.) Kilfors leads to the W. from the ferry over the
Angerman-Elf, and then ascends tW FJalhju-El/, tlie river that fnrms the fall.
192 Kil. Sknrped (510 it.). — 213 Kil. AnunJ.yii (.575 ft. ; inn).
222 Kil. MelUinsd (210 ft. ; .lernviigs-llotcl). A branch-line
• liverges here for (29 Kil.) drnskHiilsi'ik (p. 395), vi A (9 Kil.) Mnelf-
ven and (22 Kil.) Sjiilerad.
390 Router,]. VANNAS.
The main line crosses tlie Mo-Elf. — 226 Kil. Oottne; 247 Kil.
Bj'ikna. Traces of forest-flres are seen. We cross the Oide-Elf. —
272 Kil. Trehorniny.yo. — 303 Kil. N^jaker (">75 ft.; Jrrnvags-Hotel)
is the first station in Vesierbottensliin, The Ore-Elf is crosseil by
means of a bridge ISO yds. in length; and the Tallherg Tunnel is
traversed. — 319 Kil. Hornsjo. — A bridge, 200 yds. in length,
now carries us across the Ume-Elf to —
342 Kil. Vannas (290 ft.; *J€rnvags-Hotel), where all trains'halt
for the night. Viinniis is the junction for a branch-line down the
valley of the Ume-Elf to I'mea (p. 395), via (19 Kil.) Briinnland.
A carriage-road asre.nds the left bank of the Uman or Ume-Klf, passinsr
the T!(ing/ois and KoUsele, to tlie (14 Kil.) Fjallfors.
No refreshments of any kind can be obtained at any cf the fol-
lowing stations before Jiirn (see below); travellers shouM, therefore,
take measures accordingly. — 364 Kil. Tvnralund (585 ft.). We
then traverse a pretty district and cross the Vindel-Elf, by a bridge
200 yds. long, beyond which, on the right, we have a view of the
extensive Deyerfors By, with a church and 'klockstapel'. — 377 Kil.
Vindeln. — 390 Kil. Uidlnns (800 ft.), at the S. end of a barren table-
himl traversed by the railway between this point and Storsund. —
416 Kil. Ektrask ('triisk', lake or marsh). —433 Kil. Aslrlkk (850 ft.).
453 Kil. Baslutrask (Giistgifvaregard, near the station). Road to
Skelleftea, see p. 396. — The railway crosses the Skellefte-Elf which
forms a fine fall to the right, and reaches —
487 Kil. Jorn (855 ft.; *Jernrdys-Hotet), where a halt is made
for dining. — We then cross the Byske-Elf. — 518 Kil. Myrheden.
529 Kil. Langtrihk (Gastgifvaregard), the first station in Norr-
botlens Lan, is united with (68 Kil.) PUeti (p. 396) by a lonely road.
The railway now soon attains its highest point (1155 ft.). —
560 Kil. Storsund (G65 ft.). — 583 Kil. Elfsby (125 ft.; Gast-
gifvaregard, very fair), witli a church and telephone-oftice, is pictur-
esquely situated on the Pite-Elf. A carriage-road descends that river
(crossing from the riaht to the left bank by a ferry near the Sikfors)
to (54 Kil.) Pitea (p.^396).
The railway crosses the Pite-Elf and avoids a ridge of hills by a
wide curve to the W. — G02 Kil. Brdnnhergel (290 ft.). — 621 Kil.
Hednorel (72 ft.; steamboat to Edefors, see p. 398). The skjuts
station Heden lies 1 M. to the E. of the railway-station. — The
scenery becomes less stern and cultivation begins to appear. To the
left we have a pretty view of the upper course of the Lule-Elf^
which the line crosses at Trangforsen, by a bridge 175 yds. in length.
629 Kil. Boden (32 ft.; Railway Restaurant, \e.ry fair; Jernvdgs-
Holel, behind the station), a thriving place with a conspicuous church
(to the W.), is the junction of the line to Gellivarn (R. 66) and of
a line to Haparanda (completed as far as Morjiirv). It is known as
'Norrlands Las' (loc\, or key), owing to the strategic importance of
its position. Parts of the fnrtitiiations. which are of great strength,
SODERHAMN. 62. Route. 391
have been formed by blasting the granite rdk of the snrrountUiig
hills; they are surmounted by armour-plated turrets.
The line to Lulea now turns abruptly to the S. — 037 Kil.
Li'ifvast; 64G Kil. Sunderby. — 656 Kil. Ganunelstad, with a church
of 1440 containing an ancient carved altar, is the old Lulea (see
p. J590). In the neighbourhood arc several villas. We pass the
drill-ground of Nolriken, with a pretty view of Lulea, to the right.
060 Kil. (I ISO Kil. from Stockholm) LiUeti. see p. 396. The
station lies to the extreme E. of the town (carr. l-l'/i kr.).
62. From Stockholm to Sundsvall and Hernosand
by Sea (Lulea^ Haparmida).
i20-440Kil. — Steameks. The best are the large steamers, .S'. (?. Ihr-
iiirliu, Korhotten, Pitea, A'jord, Lulaa^ and JS'orra Sverige, which skirt the
coast to the N. to Haparauda, not always touching at the fame stations.
There are also numerous other steamers plying for shorter distances.
Comp. 'Stockholm Norrut" in 'Sveriges Komraunikalioner'. Farlher in-
formation on applicalion to IC. Larka, Skeppsbron 90, or (lor certain
steamers) to Nyman <t Schulls, .Skeppsiirdn 2G. The voyage to Sundsvall
takes about 20 hrs., to Hernosand about 24 hrs. Fares to Sundsvall 15 nr
Idkr. ; to Herniisaud 13 or 12 kr.; to Lulefi 28 or 24 kr.; to Ilaparanda 35
or 29 kr.
The voyage alnni; the Swedish cc^ast, with its limitless f(. rests and
long mountain-lines, is not without a certain scenic charm, but the traveller
will pnibably find his most striking experience in the ellect of the bright
summer-nights, which grow shorter and shurtor as he proceeds farther N.,
until they cease altogether. The best plan is to proceed straight through,
it' possible, to I.ulea or Haparauda, and then to return S. in easy stages. —
There is a surprizing amount of traffic all alung this coast. Immense
Quantities of timber, besides tar, iron-ore. and cattle, are exported from
the X. in exchange for provi-ions of all kinds and niauufactured articles. —
Good and cheap hotels, never overcrowded, are t(i be found everywhere.
From Stockholm (Skeppsbron) to Vn.vholm, see p. 360. — The
steamer remains for some time longer within the Skiirgart^, crosses
the Alands Haf, the bay between the Swedish mainland and the
Rii.<siau Aland Islands, and enters the straits oi Sodra Quarken. —
Hefore these straits are reached the local steamers turn to the
N.W. within the Skiirgard, steer between Griiso and the mainland,
pass (heyrttnd and traverse the bay of Oreyrunds Orepen , then
beyond the bay of Lofstaviken enter the Bay of Gefle. and touch at
Gelh (p. 379).
The direct steamers steer almost due N. through the Botlen Ilaf,
or Gulf of Bothnia. Beyond the lighthouse on the Stor Junyfru the
coasting-steamers touch at Stuyusund, the harbour for the old town
of Soderhamn (Soderhamn's Hotel; Hotel Frank; British vice-consul,
Mr. J. P. Mijhre; Lloyds Agent, Mr. J. /•'. Brolin), which lies 3 Kil.
to the W. Siiderhamn, with 10,000 iiihab., several factories, and
large exports of iron and timber, has been almost entirely rebuilt
since the lires of 1860 and 1876, and is united by rail with h'iUifnrs
(p. 380; the station is close to the harbour of Stugusund).
392 Route 62. SUNDSVALL. From Stockholm
As the steamer proceeds, we have a view of the Blacksusen
(1380 ft.), a mountain rising far inland. We then pass the Ago,
with its lighthouse. To the left lies the flre-scourged Hornsland.
Hudiksvall (Stads-Hoiel; Hotel Helsingland ; British vice-con-
sul, Mr. 0. W. WaUherg; Lloyd's Agenf, Mr. J. A. Arndt), with
oOOO inhah., several factories, and a timber-trade, is the most ancii'nt
town in the Swedish Norrland. It has been rebuilt since fires in
1878 and 1879. Branch-railway to Ljusdal. see p. 381 ; a narrow-
gauge line also runs to the N. to (40 Kil.) Dergsjo.
At the Bram'd, with its tall lighthouse, the coasting-steamers
rejoin the course of the direct boats. We steer to the N.W. into the
Alno-fiind, between the mainland and the island of Alno, on whiih
are numerous factories and saw-mills. The forests on the heights to
the left were burned in 1888.
Sundsvall. — Hotels. "Hotel Knaust, Stor-Gatan 13, near the liav-
))Oiir and tbe station, perhaps the best hotel in the Kurrland, with 45
rooms, baths, electric light, etc., R. SVj-S'Ai pens. 6 kr. ; Lilla Hotki..
Radhus-Gatan 15. — Tivoli Restaurant, with garden, to the N. of the town,
on the left bank of the estuary of the Selangera, with pretty view.
Post & Telegkaph Office, at theVangSfvan (.see below). — Railway
Station, at the harbour.
British Vice-Consul, Mr. J. C. Bavth. — U. S. Consular Agent, Mr.
V. iSvensson. — Lloyd's Agent, j\fr. A. Nordberg.
Sundsvall, founded in 1621 at the mouth of the Selangera, and
handsomely rebuilt in stone after the destructive fire of 1888, has
15,000 inhab. and is one of the chief trading-towns in the Norr-
land. Timber to the value of 20,000,000 kr. is annually exported.
The trade with Finland is also active; cattle, fish, butter, etc., being
imported thence. The main streets lead to the W. (inland^ from
the harbour. The principal thoroughfare from N. to S. is the Espla-
nade, on the VV. of which is the Stora-Torg, on the E. the Vangaf-
van, a square with several banks and attractive private houses. The
Stadhus is in the Stora-Torg. The Gothic Church , with a tower
262 ft. in height, to the W. of the town, was completed in 1894. —
The hill to the N. of the quarter on the left bank is surmounted by
an IJlsiklstorn, commanding a fine view of the town and its en-
virons (1/2 hr. from the harbour).
From Sundsvall by the Inclals-Elf to Edset (Bispgarden), see R. 60.
The voyage from Sundsvall to Hernosand takes about 4 hours.
On a promontory to the left we observe the chapel of the fishing-
village of Asthohn. The S. entrance to the Herniisund is too shallow
for large vessels, so that the steamers proceed to the E. and round
the island of Hernij on the N.
Hernosand. — Hotels. -Stads- Hotel, opposite the station of the
Solleltea railway (p. 393), with good restaurant and electric light, R. 2-6 Kr.,
Knglish spoken. — British Vice-Coiisvl, Mr. Paul Burchardt. — Lloyd's Acjinl,
Mr. K. Niirdin.
Hernosand, an old town with 7500 inhab., the capital of Vesler-
to Hernosand. HERNOSAND. 62. Route. 393
norrlands Ldn and the seat of a bishop, is prettily situated on both
sides of the Hernosuud, which separates the HernJi from the main-
land. The old town, formerly Hornsanda Bro , stretches along the
shore of the island, with the Calhedral, embellished with a colon-
nade added in 1846, the Stadlius, and the Landes-Residens, in the
Stor-Torg. The N. town, higher up, contains the Bank^ the Bishop's
House, and the church oi' St. Fetriloye. Bridges lead over the sound
to Kronholmen , to the Railicay Station on the N.W., and to the
newer quarters in the S. — Hernosand was the first European town
to be lighted with electricity (1877).
I'roceeding from the cathedral by the pretty Public Garden
(Sladstrcidyard), passing the School of Navigation on the left, and
then following the bircli-avenue straight on, we reach a point com-
manding a beautiful view of the town and its environs. The cem-
etery adjoining the avenue contains the grave of Bishop F. M.Fran-
zen (d. 1847), the poet.
The Vardkassen (390 ft), the highest point of the Ilerno , conimauds
one iif the finest panoramas on the entire coa'^t. It may be ascended in
I'/j Iir. and is accessible for carriages also. In ancient times it was a
'watch-hiir, with a signal-fire always in readiness. A belvedere. 30 ft.
hiv'h, now crowns the summit.
From Sundsoull and Hernosand lo Luleu by Sea, see R. 04.
63. From Hernosand to SoUeftea via the Anger-
man-Elf.
110 Kil. Stkamkk (Striimkarleir and 'Solleftea.') twice daily in about
G hrs. (fare 4 kr. 50 ti.; no reduction on return-tickets). Good restaur.int
on hoard. The voyage takes almost exactly the same„ time in either direc-
tion. Those therefore who intend to visit both the Angernian-Elf and the
Indals-Elf (p. 387; strongly recommended) should ascend the former and
descend the latter.
The IlKK.viisASD & Soi.LEi'TEA Railway (102 Kil., in 4'/2 hrs. ; fares
tj kr. i^, 4 kr. 10 ii.) offers an alternative route, which, tboufih said to be
unusually picturesque, offers practically nothing out of the common, except
a few views of the river, etc. The steamboat-route is therefore unhesi-
tatingly to be preferred by the foreign traveller.
The steamer steers via the Aldndsfjiird , between the Lunc/ij
and JlenuH, on the right, and the mainland, on the left, and enters
the Sanuitsund , which divides the Abordso from the mainland.
Saw-mills and other industrial establishments, interspersed with
smoking charcoal-piles fed by the waste wood, are numerous, but
fortunately do not seriously interfere with the beauty of the scenery.
On the mainland we observe the church of Hoysjo and call at
Veda. Veda is also a station on the railway, which skirts the coast
beyond this point. — The fjord (Swed. fjiird) now receives the
name of Angermaii-Elf, but as far as Nylaiid is still filled with salt
vsater. The K. bank is precipitous, the W. bank flat.
The steamer's ports of call are nniinport;int. On the \V. bank
lie iSi'in.yi't, Spriingsinken (also a railway-station), and Lunde (customs
394 Route 63. NYLAND.
station). We pass several islands, including Sandiin, with glass
works, and Svanon, with a saw-miil. On the W. bank again is Fnino,
with a cellulose-factory; behind, on a little bay, is the church of
Gudmundra. Tlieu follow Bjurkncis, Brunne, and Kromfors (rail-
way-station), with, a large harbour and a church. On the E. bank
of the lake-like stream we see Lugnvik and Lockne. The steamer
skirts the W. bank, and after touching at Sandoiken, with a pretty
view of the Bollstadvik to theW., crosses to the E. over the Slrinne-
fji'ird to the church of Bjerlra.
65 Kil. (02 by rail) Nyland (Central Hotel J^ an important sea-
port with post and telegraph office, banks, etc., is the terminus for
several lines of steamers from 8tockliolm. In 1895 the 'iloheii-
zoUern', with Emp. William II. on board, ascended the river to this
point. — At the N. end oft he Bollstadvik, about 4 Kil. to ihts W.
of Nyland, stands the old church of Yiter-Llinni'is, said to date
from the 12th cent., with an organ-case of 1652 and paintings.
Above Nyland the banks begin to approach each other, and are
higher than those of the Indals-Elf, while numerous steep eminences
(iYJp^r, see p. 387) are observed. The current is strong, but the
channel is still very wide. Many rafts are seen. The traces of cul-
tivation on tlie banks become commoner, and churches and villages
are more numerous. On the W. bank, immediately above Nyland.
is Sandslan, an extensive establishment for arranging the floating
timber (comp. p. 387). On the same bank, farther on, appear the
church of Torsaker and, to the right of it, that of Hcvberg. On the
E. bank are the churches of Stijrnds, Botea, and Ofverldnnds.
The river-bed, becoming narrower, now turns due VV. To the
right (all on the W. bank) appear in succession the estate of Holm,
the saw-mill of Bjorka, and the church of Sanga, with a small
bathing-place. The scenery becomes wilder. Farther on, sdll to the
right, ri^e the bald Paraherg and the MuUrabenj (with belvedere;
about 2 hrs. from SoUeftea). Our vessel now steams up the rapids
of Strdken and lies to, on the right bank, at the DjUpd Quay, about
2 Kil. from SoUeftea (carr. 1 kr.).
110 Kil. (102 by rail) SoUeftea. (Hotel Apt elberg, a well-known,
old-established house; Hotel Rosenqviit, both near the railway
station, to the S.), a town of 1400 inhab., with post and telegraph
office, a bank, and various industrial establishments, is prettily
situated on the right bank of the Angerman-Elf, here spanned by
an iron bridge (2 o.). The former name of tlie town was Solaiurn.
Opposite the Hotel Appelberg is the Borgen Nipa, descending pre-
cipitously to the foaming river. On the left bank rises the Appel-
hergs Nipa, wooded at tlie top, which we may ascend eitlier via a
path witli steps near the bridge or via the carriage-road from beliin<),
then steeply to the left. Farther to the W. are several barracks.
SoUeftea is the junction of the Ilernosand private railway and
of the brancli-linc to Langsele, mentioneii at p. 3S9.
OENSKOLDSVIK. tj.i. Route. 395
The journey may also be continuoil from SoUefieS. by means of a
steam-launch, which starls every morning from „ the BilUta hliaml, 5 niin.
above the bridge. The prettv voyage up the Angorniau - Klf leads pa<t
tlie mouth of the Faxe-Elf (p.' 389) to (1 hr.) Edfhy, near the church oi Ed
and the skjuts-statioii of Ustaiibiiik (13 Kit. I'mm Sollefieai. — Tlience we
proceed by carriage (ordered in advance on tlie steamer), crossing the
railwav at the Fonmo ISridgn (p. 389), to the railway -station of SelsjO
(p. 389) or to (4 Kil.) Edsbordet, where the steam-launch 'Borup' awaits
passengers for Riidsta (p. 389), higher up the stream.
64, From Sundsvall and Hernosand to Lulea by Sea
(Haparanda).
45CI Kil. Steameks, see p. 391 and 'Sveri^es Ki nimunikationer". — The
dircL't vovage from Sundsvall takes about I'i hrs. in the larser steamers
(lares 23 "Ur.. 18 kr.).
Leaving Hernosand, the larger steamer.-; steei' past tlie Lunc/o
into the open Gulf of Bothnin, passing the peninsula oIl Nordinijru
and Tiunierous islands, behind which lie Nora. Hagyoik, IJUanger. and
other calling-places of the local steamers. The district of Haggvik,
known as NordingraLitnd from Its church, is frequently visited from
Hernosand; the inns are clean, but somewhat pritiiitive. Before
reaching the promontory of Slcciys L'dde (lighthouse) the steamer
steers to the N.W. among the coast-islands and etiters the bay of —
Ornskoldsvik (Hotel Orn; Brit, vice-con.'^ul, Mr. H. Ohnyren;
Lloyd's Agent, Mr. H. K. II. Pohlmann), with the town of tliat
name ('2.500 inhab.), founded in 1842 and named after the provincial
governor P. A. (liiiskold. — Branch-raiUvay to Mellansel, see p. 389.
— If time permit, a visit may be paid hetice to the Asberg ('2 hrs.
there and back).
The steamer now doubles the Skags IMde and enters the open
. <>n the coast lie Ilunnn and Nordmaling (Lloyd's Agent, Mr.
u. Schildl), touched at by the local steamers. To the E. is the
Sgdoslbrotten, a reef m.irked by a light-ship. After about 0 hrs. we
re.ich the embouchure of the Ume-Klf, with the villages of —
Holinsiind, Djupvik, a.nd Sandv!l<en , which together form the
harbour of Umea, and are connected with that town (12 Kil.) by a
s rvicc of steam-launches. — TImea (Slorn Hotel; Central Hotel;
r>rit. vice-consul, Mr. E. II. Amnei\.^ ; Llnyd'.^ Agent. Mr. J. P.
Grubbstrom), the capital of ]'esterbott€nfli'in, with 3700 inhab., was
originally founded by (itistavus Adolphus, on the L'me-Elf, which
is too shallow to permit the approach of vessels of heavy toiniage.
Since a destructive fire in 1888 the town has been handsomely
rebuilt. — Railway to Vannas (i>l Kil.. in 1 hr. ; fares 1 kr. 05. 1 kr.
10 Ck). see p. 390.
Our course now lies thiougli the Veslru Qvarken , the strait be-
tween the mainland and a chain of islands usually named after Ilolmd,
lie' largest and nortlK-rnmost of the group. At the S. end of the chain
i- the lightlioiise ul' Si'ir (t'adde.v, at the N. end tliat of I'jiiderdgg. The
'I outside, the isl.iiids is known as tin- <):<trii Or,irk<n. In l!~^OV)
396 Route 64. SKELLEFTEA.
the Russian general Barclay de Tolly, with an army of GOOO men,
crossed both the Qvarken on the ice, and pushed his way to Umea,
thus preparing the way for the treaty of Sept. 17th, 1809, which
finally separated Finland from Sweden.
The Sundsvall steamers next touch at Ratan (Lloyd's Agent,
Mr. J. Abrahamson), an ancient Bothnian trading-place. Hecords as
to the water-level at the harbour, kept since 1749, prove that the
land hero has risen at the rate of about ~/r^ in. annually. The local
steamers also touch at Sikea, with tlie large iron-works of Robertsfors
Bruk (7 Kil. inland), and at Kallviken. — The steamer rounds the
lljurokiuhhen, with its loftily situated lighthouse, and reaches —
I'rsviken (hotel), the beautiful harbour of Skelleftea, with fac-
tories, saw-mills, etc. — Steam-launches, starting every hour, ply
hence in 1^4 hr. to (14 Kil.) Skelleftea (Stads-Hotel; Brit, vice-
consul, Mr. Carl AljeryJ, a town of 1300 inhab., on the Skellefle-
Elf. Its church, 2 Kil. to the W., is praised by Leopold von Buch
(1809). Per Hogstriim, the 'Apostle oi' the Lappmark', was pastor
liere about the middle of the 18th century.
Fkom Skellefte.J to Bastutrask, 58 Kil., road, with skjuts-stations,
up the left bank of the Skellelte3. — 12 Kil. Medle. At (IG Kil.) Kr&ngfors
the river forms a fine waterfall (but the Finn/ors, 8 Kil. farther on, is finer;
carr. there and back 3 kr.). — The road now crosses to the right bank and
finally quits the river-valley. 19 Kil. Rojnoret. 11 Kil. Baikitnisk, with
railway-station, see p. 390.
Several other small seaports lie on the coast: Kage; Furu-
grundet, with the saw-mill of Ylterstfors, harbour for Byske, 5 Kil.
inland; and Abyn. Near Skutliarnn and Munksund, with the large
lunatic asylum for the province of Norrland, the steamer enters the
Pitsund, the narrow entrance of the fjord of Pitea.
Fitea (Stads-Hotel, very fair; Lloyd's Agent, Mr. H. Sundstrom),
an old town of 2700 inhab., with its older part on the island of
Pitholin and its newer quarters on the mainland. — Carriage-road
to the railway-station of Elfsby, see p. 390.
The steamer returns through the Pitsuud, passes several islands
oi" tlie Skiirgard, and steers through the Tjufholmssund, where the
channel for larger vessels has been formed by dredging. Then, de-
scribing a wide curve to the N., we reach —
Lulea. — Hotels (often crowded in sunnner). Staos-Hotel, Skepps-
bro-Galan, with restaurant; *Hotel Wibell, a h6tel garni, Triidgards-
Gataii, both near the harbour; "Hotel Wibell's Ann'ex, with restaurant,
near the station, to the E. — Ca/i & Confectioner''s, Stor-Gatan.
Post-Office, in the W. Stor-Gatan. — Telegraph Office, at the Stad-
hus. — Railway Station, to the E. of the town, comp. p. 391.
British Vice-Consul <S Lloyd's Aoent, Mr. A. J. Weaterherg.
PnoroGKAPHS at Bergman's, Stor-Gatan. — Supplies for Tours in
Lapland; preserved meats, etc., a,i Fredriksori's , Stor-Gatan; wine and
spirits (but comp. p. 401) at Bolagets Vinhaudul, tii the S. of the church;
woollen rugs ('filt'), etc., at Bremberg's, Stur-Gatan.
Lulea, an old town originally founded 11 Kil. higher tip the
Lule-Elf by Gustavus Adolphus, and transferred to its present site
LULEA. 64. Route. 397
in 1649, lias 9000 inhab., and is the capital of Norrbottens Ldn. It
occupies a peninsula in the deep Lulefjard and is almost completely
surrounded by water. The commercial importance of its situation
at the mouth of the great Lule-Elf has been enormously enhanced
by the construction of the railway, which has rendered it the seaport
for the rich iro7i-mines of Gellivara. Like nearly all the towns in
the Norrland, Lulea owes its handsome appearance to repeated con-
flagrations, one of which, on June llth, 1887, consumed nearly all
the old timber dwellings. The line Gothic Church was erected at a
cost of 400,000 lir. To the W. of the town is the pretty Hermeims
I'ark, with the Ldnshofding-Iiesidens.
The iron-ore is shipped at the Srartokajen to the E. of the town,
'20 min. to the .S. of the railway-station, and most conveniently
reached by rowing-boat. The operation of loading the ships is in-
teresting. By means of a huge hydraulic apparatus the railway
trucks are emptied bodily into the vessels' holds. The ore is ex-
ported to Germany, Engh'.nd, and France. Good survey from a
view-tower.
From Lulea to Haparanda, see p. 403.
65. From Lulea to Kvickjock.
About 310 Kil., au attractive, but .sumewluit ti-uulilesonie expedition
of 4 days. Travellers should not fail tn make careful enquiries at the
office of the Swedish Touring Club at Stockholm (p. 317) buth as regards the
steamers which ply on the lakes of Itandijaur. Skalka, and S^gatjaur, and
particularly as regards the continuation of the Joniney to Bodief (p. 40(').
1st Day. liy rail to (I'Yi hr.) Hednorrl and thence by steamer (5 times
weekly) to (6-7 hrs.) Kdefors. — 2nd Day. Walk and row to (i5-4 hrs.)
Storbackeii ; thence drive to (7-8 hrs.) Jockinock. — 3rd Day. Walk (or drive)
to the (2'/'J hrs. or l','i hr.) Purkijaur ; thence row (with occasional stages
on foot) to Ostra liandijaur; steanu^r to Parkijanr ; rovif-boat to Djbrk-
holinen; and steamer thence to Njavvi. — 4lh Day. Steamer to Kvickjock.
Tkavei.i.ing Exvenses (carriages and boats) amount to about 50 kr.
per head. The 'dagbok' (p. xxi) at each skjuls-station gives the distance
between the stations in new Swedish miles (of 10 Kil. each) and the charge
for the conveyance of a single traveller by stolkiirre. For two persons,
or for the use of the more comfortable 'embets-akdon', a vehicle with
springs, the charges are higher. In the case, however, of journeys by
boat the fares are not given. These, which are the same for 1 or 'J pers.,
amount to 1 kr. per mile lor each rower and 12 li. for a small boat. Two
rowers are always necessary. The small boats are scarcely large enough
for two travellers, who will find the larger boats with three rowers more
comfortable. On the 'portages' on foot between the lakes the boatmen
are bound to carry 17 Kil. (40 lbs.) weight of lugpage without farther
charge; heavier luggage should, of course, bo left behind. Attempts at
overcharging are frequent.
The Accommodation, obtained at farmhouses, is clean and cheap
(S., R., .t B. I-IV2 kr.). The beds are apt to be rather hard, but the
food is abundant. The intercourse with the simple, honest, and intelligent
peasantry is one of the great charms of the e.xpedition. Lapps are seldom
met with.
^^o especial Eyiii'MKNT is necessary, except a veil to protect the face
and neck from the gnats, which are troublesome in calm weather on
land (coinp. 11, xxv). — I'ltovisioNS may be purchased at Lulea, but are not
898 Route 05. JOCKMOCK. From Lrtlea
required on the journey until beyond Jocl;moclt (no refreslinients are
provided on tlie steamers mentioned at p. 399). — Unfortunately tbe weather
is frequently unsettled.
From Lulea to Boden and Hednoret, see pp. 391, .'590. — A good
meal sliould be taken at Boden, as nothing more can be obtained
until the evening. There is no restaurant on board the steamer.
The steamboat journey up the broad Lule-Elfis very picturesque.
On the left bank are Bredaker, and, farther on, Svartla, the flrst
station. Then, on the right bank, appears the church of Aminnet.
The second station is Haruds (left bank), with a modern church,
oppo-ite whifli, in a beautiful situation on the right bank, are the
liuildings of the Bodtribkfors Company, to which the entire sur-
rounding district belong*. The river-banks now become steep and
sandy. After about G hrs. from the start we reach —
Nedre Edefors [Hotel, fair), situated 57 Kil. from Hednoret on the
left bank of the Lule-Elf, which forms the grand '"Edefors about
5 min. higher up. A walk to the fall, which is spannetl by a rail-
way-bridge, should on no account be omitted. Large electric works
are about to be erected here.
Hence to Storbacken we have a choice of routes. We may either
drive, crossing the bridge and ascending the right bank of the river,
or row (boat 4 kr. 65 o.) from (I'/o M.) Ofvre Edefors, reached by
carriage or on foot, up the beautiful upper Ltile-Jilf, via Storsand.
20 Kil. Storbacken (Inn, good and moderate), the first place in the
Lappmark. is finely situated on the right bank of the dark Lule-Klf.
An e.xpeditirin may be made hence l>y a small steamer to {i hrs.) tlie
' Pursifors, the imposing serie.s of falls, nearly 3 M. long, which the .S<o?f(
Lule-Klf forms immediately above its .junction with the Lilla Lule-Elf. We
TOW upstream for about 5 Kil.; then ascend on foot for 4 Kil. more.
From Storbacken to Murjek (16 Kil.), see p. 401.
The hilly road (carr. 3 kr. 90 ci.) continues to ascend the right
bank of the Lule Elf, at some distance from the river, traversing
woods and passing VvoUerim and Pdjertm, to —
20 Kil. Koskats (good quarters), above the lake of the same
name. Thence (carr. 4 kr.) it desceiuls through lonely and btirnt
forests to the Lilla Lule-Elf, on the opposite bank of which we
observe Smeds or Mattisudden.
27 Kil. Jockmock (840 ft. ; Rhmman's Inn, very fair), an im-
portant tourist-station, ■s^ith a cbundi and physican. The name
means 'rapids' ; tbe Lappish name is Tdlvatis (winter-market^.
Walks. The Lilla Lule-Elf forms two important waterfalls, within
a distance of 4 Kil. from its emergence from the \aikijaur (p. 399).
The 'Akkalje Fall is reached in about 1 hr. by following the road to the
N. to the '1 Mil-stolpa' and thence proceeding to the right for 10 min.
more in the direction of the sound. The best view is from below, es-
pecially before noon. The Kajtum Fall, 20 min. to the N.E. (guide I'l n-
venient; 50 o.) is divided into two parts by an island; the right half alone
is acces.^ible. The height of the Vaikijaur is 846ft. above the sea-level;
that of the river just below the Kajtum Fall is 712 ft.
FkOM .locntMOCK TO THU II AUSCKANO, 43 Kil., AND T1IKN<'K TO A|;B0R-
trask (p. 4o2), 38 Kil., a fatiguing e.vpedilinn nf 2 days (guide and provl.sions
to Kvickjwlc. HARSPKANG. 6'5. Route. 399
essential). — 1st Day. We follow the carriage -ri ad to (I hr.) Luspe (see
below); cross the Vaikijuur in a boat (which must be ordered in advance)
to (90 inin.) the hamlet of Vciikijaure (850 ft.) on the X.Il. bank; walk to
the (14 Kil.) Anajaur (^56 ft.); cross that lake by boat; and walk to (6Kil.)
Ligga, where tolerable iiightqrarters may be found. — 2nd Day. We walk
to (14 Kil.) the ''Harsprang ('h;ire"s leap'; Lapp. NjorumeUaska). the mag-
nificent fall formed by the Slora Lule-EIf, which issues from the Great
Lulesjii. The princip:il fall has a sheer leap of ICO ft., but including the
rapids above and below, extending over a distance of l'/4 31., the total
fall is 250 It. The elVect is heightened by the wild and untrodden fore^>ts
that frame the scene. — In continuing our journey, we row across the
river, and then proceed on fort by a hilly road to (14 Kil.) Porjus (1185 ft.-,
good quarters), dose to the efflux of the Stora Lule-Klf from the long
S. bay of the Stora Lulesjo. Thence we go on to (15 Kil ) the ilelUrfUt
filnhha, cross that mountain, and proceed as indicated at pp. 403. 402 to
Abbortrask, — If the second night be spent at Porjus, we mav reach
KuUisluokta (p. 403) on the 3rd day.
Two carriage-roads lead from Jockiuock to the \'utkijaur. The
oW road reaches the lake at Luspe^ at the discharge of the Lilla
Lule-Elf, 5 Kil. to the N. of Jockmock. The new road strikes the
lake at (7 Kil.) Saikam, and jnoceeds thence to the (5 Kil.) Purki-
.iaur. Luspe is 10 Kil. from the W. end of the Vaikijaur (boat
P> kr. -10 (■).; strong current) ; thence to the Purkijaur, "2 Kil.
Me take a boat (2 kr. 65 u.) across the Purkijaur (S'JO ft.), pass-
ing the fairly well-peopled Purkiholm and other islands, laud at
Kuvutjeviken, and thence walk in 1 hr. to —
15 Kil. LulUketje on the Randijaur (9'25 ft.). The stearr.er
'Dagmar" (2 kr.), particulars about which may he ascertained at
Jockmock, traverses the lake, afl'ordiiig latterly a line view of the
Fiirkijinirfors. to —
14 Kil. Purkijaur {JdijO U.; tolirablc quarters). We row (boat
;] kr.) across the lake, 9 Kil. in length, to the lijlirkhrjlnuinorka;
walk thence to (10 miii.) the S.E. end of Lake Skalka (970 ft.); and
row thence t;> (}/o hr.) —
i'i Kil. lijl'rkholtnen, a small island in the E. part of Lake
Skalka, wliere two farm-houses offer good nightquarters. Good view
nf the entire lake as far a^ the mountains on the "W.. the Kabla, and
tl.f Partffji.llen (on the right).
We embark on the steamer 'Skalka" for the journey to Njavu
(i'/o kr.), pass the i.-iands of Lnna and Stuor Rihlasuolo (suolo =
i>lanii), and observe, on the 8. bank of the lake, Granudden (quarters
lor 2pers.). Stemming the strong current, the boat reaches Tjtunolefi.
on the lake of the same name (975 ft.), which we navigate from end
to end, with a view of the Kabla to the N.
4i) Kil. Njavvi, two farm-houses offering good accommodation.
Crossing tlie ?. Kil. wide 'Morka", we next reach the beautiful
Sagffatjiiur (995 ft.), whirji is traversed by the steamer 'Saggat',
taking half-a-day to readi Kvickjock (;? kr.). On the S. bank of
the lake the J'redikstolen on Mt. Ailules is conspicuous, while on
the N. bank ri.<es the Njanju (;ill5 ft.). As soon as we have passed
the waterfall of Ix'adjoj' ck (on tin; rifht), the lake bends to the N.
400 Route 65. KVICKJOCK.
anil a magniflcent view is discloserl of the mountains of Kvickjock,
frora the J'artefjdllen on the E. to the Staika on the W. Passing
the island of Slorholin, we now enter the broad embouchure of the
Kamajock, which is joined ou tlie W. (left) by the Tarrajock. The
alluvial banks of both rivers (the 'Kviftkjock Delta') are surprizingly
well-wooded.
35 Kil. Kvickjock. — Inn kept by Silsson, the agent of the Tourists'
Union, with 5 rooms, good and comparatively inexpensive; interesting
visitors' book. — Members of the Swedish Tourists' Union (p. xjcv), who
purpose to make mountain-excursions hence, may here borrow a tent,
maps, and a wuosma, or canvas-boat for crossing river.-!.
Kvickjock {^i^Qb ft.), now consisting of half-a-dozen red-painted
cottages, a little church, and a parsonage (post-offlce), owes its
foundation in the IStli cent, to a long-abandoned silver-mine. The
name (Lapp. /iTKOi/ca^oc/c = rapid brook) is derived from the rapids
on the Kamajock. The midnight sun is visible hence as long as
from Bode (table, see p. 232); an excellent point of view is the
summit of the *Snarak (2565 ft. ; 2^0 hrs. there and back by a
marked path, but guide useful), which rises to the E. The Prins-
kullen (2436 ft.), to the N.W., on the right bank of the Kamajock,
commands a pretty view of the delta and the Saggatsjo. It owes its
name to a visit of Prince diaries, afterwards Charles XV. The view
from the VaUispiken (4555 ft. ; one day there and back), on the slope
of which the Priiiskullen rises, is variously spoken of (comp. the
visitors' book).
Details as to longer Excursions, e.g. via the Ruotevare. Malmherg to
(lie Luottohjiiklar in the Parte/jdllen, etc., will be found in the guidebook
of the Swedish Tourists' Union. — To the Stora Sjiifall and GelHvara,
see p. 403.
From Kvickjock to Bod0, 4 days, of which three are on foot, fatigu-
ing and involving the fording of various brooks and livers. The use uf
'bandskor' on the feet is recommended. The journey cannot be perfi rmud
before the end of .Tuly on account of the snow. Enquiries ,'hiiuld be made
beforehand at the Swedish Tourist Clul) (p. 317). A cable-railway is being
constructed to the Tarra Hut for working the magnesite deposits. The
workmen act as guides, but travellers should ascertain at Kvickjock whether
the Norwegian Peiter Serensen (p. 242), the guide (30 kr.) for the stage
lietweeu the Tarra Hut and Furulund (Sulitelnia, p. 242), is to be found at
the Tarra Hut; if not, they .should wait at Kvickjock. — 1st Day. Rowing-
boat on the Tarrajock, and then walk through wood to (ca. 6 hrs.) Njunjes
(fair quarters, kept by Erik HoUiiborn, a Lapp, who has dealings with
educational institutions in England and Germany, and possesses a good
collection of butterflies, insects, stufied birds, eggs, etc.); then walk to the
Tarrasju and across it by rowing-boat to the Tarra Hut (very primitive;
no accommodatinu except box-beds), in about 5 hrs. — 2nd Day. Walk
through the Lapland Alps and over the fjeld to the (10-15 hrs.) Varvel:
Hut (equally primitive). — 3rd Day. Walk to the Piski-Jaur and through
the Lairodal to the Lommi-Jaur and Furulund (p. 242), in about 10 Ur.^.
66. From Lulea to Gellivara (Narvik).
'ill Kil. Railway. To (20i Kil.) Oellivara, two trains daily in 7-9 hvs.
(fares 10 kr. 75, 7 kr. 3U ii.; return tickets valid for six days). — This
railway, built by an Kuiilisli company in 1884-8S and purchased by the
Swedish gdvpvnmint in 18!ll, serves almost exclusively for the trau3]iort
(lELLlVAKA. 06. liuute. 401
of the irou ore lo (lie ciasl. It traverses a weary monotouy of forest,
lake, and marsh, but GcUivara it,«elf repays the long journey. — The in-
troduclion of spirituous liquors into tlie Lappmark is forbidden, but 'Lon-
krdpare', or smugglers, arc unmerous.
From Liilea to (36 Kil.) Boden, see i)p. 3'Jl, 390. — The railway
at tirst traverses fultivated land, then asrends through wood. — 55 Kil.
Ljum. — 76 Kil. Sandtrdsk. To the right, on the other side of tlie
lake, is the attractive country-seat of Col. Bergmann. — 96 Kil.
Labatrdsk; lOS Kil. Ndsberg. About 4 Kil. farther on, notice-boards
on each side of the line mark the frontier of the Lappmark.
120 Kil. Murjek or Muorjek ( 790 ft. ; rfints.).
From 3Iir.iek to Stokbacken, 16 Kil., with skjuts. The skjuts-station
is 3 Kil. from the railway-station of Murjek. This route is recommended
for the returu, in which oase the carriage (1 pers. 2 kr. 70, 2 pers. i kr.
50 o.) should he ordered by telegram from Gellivara to meet the train.
Till' road is uninteresting, until near the end, when it descends to the
LuleS, which must be crossed bv fcrrv. Storbacken., and thence to Lulca,
SCO p. 398.
The railway, 1000 ft. above the sea-level, now crosses the Arctic
Circle, -which is indicated by notice-boards. 134 Kil. Polrirkeln. —
We cross the Rane-Elf. — 157 Kil. Nattavara (1055 ft.l is about
-« Kil. from the settlement of that name ('vara' is Finni.«h lor moun-
tain). A few isolated heights now begin to rise above the plateau,
and tlie Duiidret (see below) soon becomes visible on the left. —
174 Kil. Nuortikon. — 184 Kil. i?/pa<.s (1375 ft. j. We then pass
the Villa Fjdllnds, belonging to Col. L5ergmann.
204 Kil. Gellivara (1180 ft.]. — Hotels. Granu-Hotkl, to the E.
of the station: Tirist Hotel, to the W. (over the bridge), both well spoken
of, good wine but no spirits. — Fat & Telegraph Office- — Physician. —
Chem'iCs iS/wp.
The station-master, who is also the 'Ombudsman', or iigent, of the
Swedish Tourists' Union and supplies all information concerning tours in
the Lappmark , keeps the key of the pavilion on the Gellivara- Dundvcl
(see below), which he gives to members of the Union in exchange for a
receipt. He also supplies scientific instruments for the more accurate use
of the direction-table in the pavilion; but these are heavy to carry and
probably superfluous for most travellers.
Gellivara, with its modern church and attractive houses, is pret-
tily situated on the Vasarajdrvi (Lapp. V)idljerjaure\ a lake from
which theVaaara-Elfissyie?. To the .S.VV. of the station is the disused
Lapp chapel, in which Per Hogstrom (p. 39B) preached about the
middle of the 18tli century. Beside it is an ancient cemetery.
The hill of *Gellivara-Dundret (2700 ft.), formerly named Vma-
riitrinturi, about 5 Kil. to the S.W., atl'ords an excellent view of the
midnight sun from June 5th to July 11th. The ascent takes i^/-)
-I'^/ihi. (adult guide, 3 kr., unnecessary). We skirt the railway to
the S., cross the bridge, nnd ascend through the gardens of the Villa.
Kjiillnas. Farther on we take the marked path to the right through
s<'anty and occasionally swampy woods (numerous gnats), then follow
the barren ridjre to the left to tlie Pavilion (see above) on the sum-
mit. The view ranges over an immense forest-clad plateau, inter-
rupted by a few isolated hills and dotted with lakes ; to the W. rises
Baedekkb's Niirway and Sweden. 8th Edit. '26
402 Houk 66. MALMBEUG.
a siiuw-covercd range of iiiouiitains, exteruliiiR I'ruiii (lie Sarjek, on
tlie S., to the Adnetjakko, ou the N. A directioii-tablc ('syftplatta';
loi'keil) names the mountains. The Dundret is formed of gabbro,
with layers of apatite.
About 5 Kil. to the N. rises thi' Malraberg (2025 ft.), with
the famous iron-mines. This is the terminus of the railway (7 Kil.
from Gclli vara ; tliree passenger-trains daily in 20-25 min.). The
village (about 6000 inhab. in 1900), at the base of the hill, has
quite an American appearance. The origitial wooden huts are ra-
pidly giving place to substantial stone houses built in regular
streets. Schools, a hospital, and shops, including a bookseller's and
a photOKrapher's, have already sprung up.
The iron-ore, which is found throughout an area of about 60 acres,
is deposited in almost perpendicular veins in the gneiss of the
mountain, and is worked partly by shafts from the side, partly from
above. The mines belong to the Gellivara Malmfalll, a joint-stock
company, which employs about 2000 workmen in summer and about
1600 in winter. Electric works near the house of the manager
('disponent' | supply the motive power. There arc at present twelve
mines in operation. The oldest of these, the Heriiyen (af Osler-
(jdilavd)-Grufva. near the railway-station, consists of an 'upper'
and a 'lower' mine. The shaft at the end of the latter affords an
interesting glimpse of the geological structure of the mountain.
The most important 'upper' mines are the Thirty valla-G ruf'ca and
the immediately adjacent Kony-Oakars-G'rufva, to which a railway
siding leads (5 Kil.; follow the rails). Among the other mines on
the mountain are the Nedra Viilkomna Gnifvn, the Ostra Vdlkomna
Griifva, the Johans-Grufva, the Josefrna-Grufva, and the Heriiyen
af Upfland Griifva. Visitors are generally allowed to wander at
discretion among the mines; but a look-out should be kept for blast-
ing-operations. Those who desire special information should apply
to the 'disponent'. — Pines and flrs grow on the base of the Malm-
berg, and birch-trees higher up. The summit, which is free of
trees, commands a wide panorama.
The iron deposits of Gellivara liave been known since the 18th cent.,
but the first systematic attempt to work them was made at the beginning
of the 19th cent, by Baron S. G. Hermelin , a benefactor in many ways
to the Swedish Norrland. Several English companies took part in the
exploitation after about 1860, but it was not until the f-jundalion of the
present company in 1890 and the purchase and development of the railway
by the Swedish Government (p. 400), that the operations were made to
pay. The ore contains 55-65 per cent of pure iron. It is sorted at the
mines in the 'skreda' and then despatched by rail to LuleS (p. 396). The
workmen are all either Svi'edcs or Finns; no Lapps are employed.
Fkom Gellivaka to Kvickjock, a celebrated but fatiguing and ex-
pensive expedition of 6-7 days over lakes and mountains. Equipment,
see p. xxiv. Guides and porters on the tariff-scale of the Tourists'' Union
are almost unobtainable, and the boats of the Union for crossing the lakes
are not always to be found. — 1st Dav. Row across the Vdsaralrask (5 Kil.)
and walk to (16 Kil.) Abborirdsk (fair quarters). — '2nd Day. Walk,
NEDKK KALIX 0'7. Route. 403
CTDSsiiig tiumcrnus swamps by means of 'spaiigniiigar' or board-paths, tii
the (14 Kil.) Afellei-sta Sluhba (2120 ft.), cross the mountain -ridge and
proceed to tlic'N.W. to (15 Kil.) Hjammluokla (luokta = >>ay) on the f<loi-a
Lule Ti-ask (1210 ft.), and finally row over that lake to (25 Kil.) KaWsUiokIn
(tolerable ([uarters). [The route to the S.W. from the Mellersta Stubha,
leads to I'orjus and the Harsprang, see p. 390.1 — 3rd Day. Kow to (25 Kil.)
Jaurikaskaluokla, walk across the 'Morka' (2 Kil.) while the boat is being
towed through the rapids, proceed again in the boat on the Langasjaur
(janp = lake) to Saltoluokla or AhoUwkIa, and thence walk to the (13 Kil.)
tonrist-hut beside the 'Stora Sjofallet (Lapp. Jitna Muorkekartje), the finest
waterfall in Sweden next to the Harspnlng (p. 399). The entire stream
from the Kartjejaur here fulls in two leaps into the Langasjaur, 130 ft. be-
low. The view from the JtiobmoljSkko (8910 ft.), to the N. of the lake, is
.said to be fine. — 4th Day. Row back to Salloluokla, on the S. bank of the
lake, and walk thence to (23 Kil.) the tonrist-hut on the Siitiojaw. — 5th
Day. Row across the lake and walk nver the mountain-plateau to (10 Kil.)
AkUek, on the beautiful Laidaure (1635 ft.), cross that lake, and walk to
(17 Kil.) the touriat-hut on ilia Sjabdljukka Lake (i^'lQ ii.). —^ih. Pay. Row
across the lake, walk to the Stuvr Tata, crohs that lake, and walk to
(lb Kil.) Kvickjock (p, 400).
Fko.m Gelltvaka to Nakvik, on the Utnleni;iord (p. 249), 269 Kil.,
railway in ca. 12 hrs. (fares 14 kr. 20, 9 kr. 45 if.); expresss-train, with
sleeping and dining cars, from Stockholm to Narvik in summer once weekly
in 48 hrs. (first-class return-faro 115 kr. ). — This is the northernmost railway
in the world, and was constructed in 1898-1903 for mineral traffic. The line
run^ along and between numerous lake^ and crosses .several t)road rivers.
Linaelf {{'t^ifi it.) is its culminating p'iiit. The principal station (101 Kil. from
Gellivara: 3Vi hrs.' journey) is Kiruna (Jiin), which, since the opening of the
r<(ilway, has grown from a mere desert to a town of 2000-300(5 inhab., and
is still ra;ndly increasing, though a large part of it \va.s burned down in l'j('3.
Near it are the great iron-mines of Kirunavara and Luossovaru., which are
worked by a company. The lode of the former is 260 ft. wide and cuntain.s
at places 90 per cent of iron. Farther on the train runs along the S. 1 ank of
tlic Turiielrask (1132 ft ), a lake 60 Kil. in lengih, and then penetrates two
tunnels under the watershed separating the Baltic from the Atlantic Ocean.
At (230 Kil.) Riksi/rciiinn the Norwegian portion of the line begins (see p. 240).
67. From Lulea to Haparanda by Sea.
lUlKil. Stkamkk.s ill 9-12 hrs. (fare 7 kr., 5 kr.); see p. 391.
Lulea, see p. 396. — The steamer steers to the N. t'rom the
liarbour and traverses the Svartosund , passing three large salmon
lishing establishments. Our course now lies within the Skiirgard.
Some of the steamers touch at Strihnvind, tlie harbour of Ranea,
others at Tore on the Tor fj fir den. and nearly all at —
KarlihoTij, the harliour of Nedcr Kalix. On the island oi Sand-
holm, opposite tlie harbour, is the \vcll-C(iuipped hut little fre-
quented bathing-place of A'on/ari^'fciVr.s. — From Karlsborg a ser-
vice of steam-liiinches plies to the N. to (10 Kil.) thi' little town
of Neder Kalix (Odstyifvaregnrd, very fair; Lloyd's Agent, Mr.
(f. Andcr^im), on the Kulii-Elf. This river forms several cataracts
the llnust of which are the Strakundsfors and the Kamlunyen
(respectiTcly 5 and 15 Kil. above tlie townj. Special boats ( 'forsbatar')
arc used for tlie purpose of descending these rapids, and are
navigated with great .^kill by the boatmen ('forskarlar'). Tourists
liave an opportunity of enjoying this exciting trip ('forstard').
26*
404 Route 07. IIAPAUANDA.
Beyond Kailsborg the steamer remains within tlic Skargaril,
passing to tlie N. of the island of SeKkaro, on wliidi sovcral mer-
chants of Ilaparanda Lave summer-residences. We thou reach —
Salmis, the liarbour of Haparamla, 11 Kil. from that town, witli
wliicb communication is maintained by carriage (1-2 pers. 2 kr. ;
not always to be had) and by the steam-launch 'Zanthos' (1 kr.),
which ascends the Torne-Elf. To the riglit appears the conspicuous
domed church of Tornea, in Finland.
Haparanda [Stada-Hotel , with restaurant), the northernmost
town in Sweden, with 1500 inhab. and clean and broad, but unpaved,
streets, is situated on the swampy W. arm of the Torne-Elf. The
main channel of the river has, however, lain farther to the E.
since the beginning of the 19th century. The name has been de-
rived from the Finnish 'Ilaapa-ranta", 'shore of aspens'. Near the
river is a modest Public Park, commandiTig an aUractive view of
Tornea and its domed church. The church of Haparanda stands on
a hill to the W. of the town, overlooking the river-valley.
A long timber-bridge (toll 10 ci.) leads over the old river-bed to —
Tornea (Stads-Hotel, very fairj, in the Russian grand-duchy of
Finland. The town (1200 inhab.), founded by GustavusII. Adolphus
but resigned by Sweden at the peace of 1809 (p. Ixxi), has a less
prosperous but quainter appearance than Haparanda. Pretty walks
may be taken to the old church on the N.E., and to the Greek Chapel
on the S. A line summer night spent on the main stream of the
Torne-Elf, which washes the E. side of the town, will probably long
linger in the traveller's memory.
The seaport of Tornea is Royttd, to the S., with a saw-mill.
A road, with 'fast' skjuts-.stations, leads frnm Haparanda up the right
hank of the Torne-Klf, through a well-cultivated and sometimes beautiful
country, via (17 Kil.) Kukkola, (18 Kil.) Korpikyla, (16 Kil.) Piikila, the
church of Hietaniemi, (4 Kil.) Koivulcyla, (8 Kil.) Niemis, and (21 Kil.) Rus-
kola, to (3 Kil.) Matarcngi (inn), near the church of Ofcer Tornea. The top
of the Avasaxa (750 ft.), on the opposite side of the river, commands a
view of the midnight sun from 22nd to 25th June, and was at one time
mvich frequented on these days. Now, however, that the phenomenon i,9
more conveniently viewed elsewhere (pp. 401, 232), natives of the district
arc alone to be met with here. — The road quits the river and ascends
via (15 Kil.) Kusijdrvi, (19 Kil.) Ruokojarvi, (22 Kil.) Pirliniemi, (11 Kil.)
Ohtanajdrvi, (22 Kil.) Saltajcirvi, and (15 Kil.) Pdjal'i. We here rejoin the
Torne-Elf, which forms a waterfall, 60 ft. in height, at the iron-works of
Kengis Bruk, 7 Kil. to the E. — From this point we may return to Hapa-
randa by the river, which receives the. Muonio-Elf a Utile lower down. —
Up the Muonio-Elf to Karesuando, see R. 38.
From Pajala the road continues to ascend the right bank of the Tnrnc-
Elf to (100 Kil. ; 292 Kil. from Ilaparanda) Vitlangi. — About 53 Kil. farther
to the N.W. is Jukasjiirvi, the church-register of which contains interesting
entries made by famous travellers. One of these, by Rcgnard, the French
savant (1681), concludes with the ^vords —
^Hic tandem Hetirrmt, nobis uhi defuit orbis\
This region was also visited by Charles XI. in 1694, by Linnaeus in 1732,
by Celsius and Maupertiiis in 1736, and by Louis Philippe in 1796.
DENMARK.
(18. Copenhagen and its Environs 405
(ji(. From Copenhagen to Helsinger and llelsingborg . , 433
70. Rornholm 439
71. From Copenhagen to Hamburg, by the Danish Islands
and Sleswick 440
From Roskilde to Gjedser, 440 •, to Aavhus, 441.
1'2. From Odense to Svendborg, Langeland , Laaland,
Falster, and Maen 443
From Ringe to Faaborg. Taa.'iinge. Fiom Svendborg via
Langeland to Masnedsund, 443.
73. From Fredericia to Frederikshavn. Jutland .... 445
From Skanderborg to Silkeborg. From Aarhus to Ryom-
gaard and to Hou. Friisenborg, 446. — Mariager, 447. —
From Frederikshavn to Gotenburg. Skagen, 448.
74. From Aalborg on the Limfjord to Thisted and Tia
Viborg to Langaa 449
KHtm^lIer. From Striier to Lunderskdv, 449.
68. Copenhagen and its Environs.
Arrival. Br Steamer. Steamers from British and German ports,
Gotenburg, Stockholm, and Christiania land at the Toldbod (PI. 44; 51,4);
those from Danish ports at the Kveesthus-firo (PI. M, 5); the steam-ferry
boats from Malmo (p. 272) at the Frihavn (free harbour; PI. M, 1); the
other steamers from Malmo, and those from the Swedish towns on the
Sound at the corner of Havne-Gaden and Nyhavn (PI. L, G). Porter ('Drager')
f(ir carrying a trunk to the custom-house and thence to a cab 30-50 /».; for
luggat;e over 56 lbs. more in proportion. — Br Railway. Luggage booked
through to Copenhagen from abroad is reclaimed at the custom-house.
Pdrter for carrying a trunk to a cab. 25-30 0. — Cab Tariff, see p. 400. —
IIaii.wav Stations: Afain Station (PI. G, 7), for all trains except those tn
N. Zealand; A^07-th Station (PI. G, 6), for N. Zealand, llelsingborg, Goten-
burg, and Christiania; Holte. Station, for local trains to Holte ; Klampenborg
Station (PI. G, G), for Klampenborg, Skodsborg, etc. ; East Station (PI. K, L, 3),
for the ordinary trains of the coast-line to Klampenborg, Skodsborg, and
Helsing0r. — Steamboat Offices: Forenecle Dampskibs- Selskuh (to New-
castle, London, Hull, Stettin, Kiel, Gotenburg, (Christiania), Kvwsthus-
Gaden 9, at the S.E. corner of the St. AnniP-PIads (PI. L,M,6); O.K. Hansen
(to Hull and Leith), Toldbodveien 5 ; E. Friis (to Stralsund), Amalie-GadenSl
(PI. L, 5); C. Krarup (Swedish vessels to Liibeck and Gotenburg), Amalie-
Gaden 31.
Hotels (all with restaurants; English spoken at many of them; electric
light and baths at the larger houses; during the busy season it is advisable
to engage rooms beforehand). 'Angletekre (PI. a ; K, 6), Kongens Nytorv 43,
under British management (since 1902J and fitted up in the most modern
style (by Jlessrs. Waring), with hot-air heating, lift, etc., R. from 4, B. 1,
dcSj. (12-2 p.m.) 3, D. (6-8 p.m.) 4, S. 2 kr. ; 'PiimNix ('PI. b; L, 5), Bred-
Gaden 37, at the corner of Dronningens Tvser-Gaden, with lift, etc., R. 3-10,
E. 1, d<'j. 2, D. 3 kr., good French cuisine. — Kongen ap Danmark
tPl. c; K, 6), at the corner of the Holmens-Kanal and Niels-Jnels-Gaden,
•Avilh lift, baths, etc., R. 2V2-10kr.; *MoNOP()r. (PL e; K, 6), Konaen't Nvtorv,
at the rorii.r of VingaardsStiade, with batbs, R. 27a-3'/a, B. 1, D.li d.i.j.,
2G, "27
406 Route 68. COPENHAGEN. Practical
(ir S. each 2 kr. — ^ear the Main Railway ISlation: 'Bkistoi,, on the Raadhus-
Plads (PI. H, 7), between Vester-Gadeii and Fredriksberg-Gaden, a large new
building with every comfort (lift), K. from 3, B. 1, 1>. (4-Sp.ra.) 2V.!-3 kr. ;
■ Dagmak (PI. 50; H, 7j, at the corner of Jernbane-Gaden and the Vestre
Boulevard, with lift, baths, etc., K. 4-6, B. I1/4, dej. 2V2, 1>. 3, S. 2'/2 kr. ;
Hot. National, Vesterbro Passage 2, with lift, etc., K. 2-5, B. ^ji, D. (2-7
and after'8 -p.Hi.> i^h'i kr. ; Wetropolb (PI. i; H, 7), Raadhus-Plads 55, i
with lift,, etc., R. 2-i, B. 1, dej. 1, D. 1V2-3 kr. ; Central Hotel (PI. d ;
H, 7), Kaadhus-Plads 16, a good commercial hou.'e, with lift, etc., R.
from 2, D. fl-7 p.m.) I'/z-S kr. ; Tubist-Hotel (PI. k; H, 6), Vestre Boule-
vard W, at the corner of the Studie-Strwde, with lift ti baths, very fair,
R. 2-3'/2, .B.. 3/v J). (2-7 p. u),) 2, ,S. IVi kr. ; .Kg-sq Frederik (PI. 0 : H, 6),
Vestervold-Gaden 25, R. 2-2y2, B. ^/j, D. I1/2 kr. — Temperance Hotel,
Vesterbro-Gaden 41, R. I'/i-l'A, D- 1 ki"' — Near the Harbour : Grand-Hotel
NiLSON (PI. g; L, 6). corner of Holbergs-Gaden and Peder-Skrams-Gaden,
good Swedish house, R. l'/j-4,- B. ^jt, D. (1-6 p.m.) ii/2-2 kr. ; Germania &
Continental, Havne-Gaden 55, at the corner of the Nyhavn, R. 1V2-3, B. 2/4,
well spoken of. For a longer stay: Thune's Hot.-PENSioN, Hovedvagts-
Gaden 2, at the corner of tlie Kongens Nytorv, recommended to ladies,
R. 2-2'/2, dc). (11.30 a.m.) 1, I». (5 p.m.) 1 kr. 35 f». ; Fst^KEN Hansenmever,
Tordcnskjolds-Gaden 15, to tlie S. of the Kongens-Nytorv, board 3 kr.
Restaurants. * Restaurant Fran(ait, in the PhoBni.x Hotel (p. 405) and in
the Tivoli (p. 408), D. 3 kr.; at the Angleterre (p. 405); Dagmar (see above),
and others of the above-mentioned hotels; 'Standard, Kongens Nytorv
(p. 410); Res'auraAt Contiii^ntn/ , 0sfer-Ga"deh 1'; Fiigmann, Kongens-Nytorv 19 ;
Ca/i Royal, 0ster Gaden 61 ; Grand Cafi, N0rrevold-Gaden ; Tivoli, Vesterbro-
Gaden; "Kongelige Skydehanen. Vesterbro-Gaden 59, a little out of the way,
I). lV2-3kr.; Langelinie Pavilion, Lange Llnie (p. 419), D. 3 kr.
Cafes and Confectioners. (Cup of tea or coffee 20-25 0. , chocolate
35 0.; also beer, milk, eggs, and ^Smerrehreid'', or sandwiches). Ildtel
d^ Angleterre, with seats in the open air, see p. 405; Standard, see above;
Vienna Cufi, at the Hotel Kongen af Danraark (p. 405); A Porta, Kongens
Nytorv 17, newspapers and ladies' rooms ; Schucani tb A Porta, Store Kj0b-
inager- Gaden 18; Cafi Bernina, corner of Vimmelskaftet and Badstue-
Strijede.
Cahs (l-l pers.). The cab-district is divided into four concentric zones,
the boundaries of which are shown on a map annexed to the tariff. The
city proper includes the harbour and Kristianshavn. a. Ordinary Cabs.
Per drive in the city proper 70 0., into the other zones 30 0. each extra;
from the city proper to the Frederiksberg Rondel 1 kr., to the Zoological
Oiirden I'/s kr. Per hour ('timevis') IV2 kr. ; beyond the city 2 kr. ; each
i/« hr. more 40 0. Half-fare is charged for the return to the centre if the
cab be dismissed in an outer zone. Double fare from midnight to 6 a.m.
Trunk 15 0., small articles free. — b. Taxameter Cabs. Drive of 890 nifetres
(72 M.) 50 0., each 400 metres OA M.) additional 10 0.
Tramways (Sporveie ; cars, Sporvogne; fare 10 0., incl. transfer, or
■fhuMignings-hillet''; most of the lines are electric). The principal centres
are the Raadhds-Plads (p. 426; PI. H, 7) and the Kongens-Nttorv (p. 410;
PI. K, 5, 6).
1. From the Fredrikslerg-AlU to Strandveien via the Zoological Garden
(p. 430; PI. A, 7, 8), Fredriksberg-Runddel (p. 429; PI. C, 7), Vesterbro
Passage (p. 427; Tivoli), Raadhus- Phids (p. 426; PI. H, 7), Storm-Gaden
(PI. I, 7; Prindsens Palais, p. 414), Slotsholmen (Thorvaldsen Museum,
p. 412), Holmens-Bro (p. 411), Holmens Kanal (p.4ll), Kongen s-Nyloro (p. 410;
PI. K, b), Bred-Gaden (p. 4l7; PI. L, 5), East Station (PI. L, 3), Trianglen
(PI. I, 1), Hellerup (p. 434), Charlottenlund, and Klampenborg (p. 434).
2. From Valby to Snndhy, starting at S0ndermarken (p. 429; PI. B, C, 8)
and running via the Zoological Garden and aa above to the Raadhus-Pladi
and to the Holmens-Bro (p. 411), then through the Slotholms-Gaden (Ex-
change; p. 4L1) to the quarter of Kristianshavn and the suburb of Amager-
Suudliv (PI. M, N, 9).
1. AniJiTopoloflisk }bisrfim- \iA-
c L ^
17. KirurgisTc Akadaio.
W.Kamjl Siblwtek
19 ■ ilalerisamling
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5. Frurutrerloge/L
Frvderiks Kirke
7 . J'Yelsirs Kirke
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9. /MUffoands Jxrbe
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11 . hiUltohk htrke
12. .1 /ff«/j *z/A£
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2 1. Biqsdagsliygning
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L.4 . 1 38 . Synaqoi/e
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Cco^raph-Anat ▼on Wa^v it Debes , Laipuf.
Notes. COPENHAGEN. 6S. Route. 407
3. From Ifie Slrund Boulnvard (PI. L, 1) by the Trianglen (PI. I, Ij,
Ble.gdamsiei(V\. H,I,'2j, Ni»iiclir(i-Gaden(Pl. F,2j, and0rs(edvei(Pl.F,E, 5-7)',
to Enghavnvei (PI. D, K, 9).
4. From lUsterhvo to Trianghn by the Raadhus-Pladt (p. 426; PI. H, 7),
Railway Stations (PI. (i, 6), Serlv-Torv (PI. I, 4), and Favimacs-Ga'den
(PI. 1,3).
5. From Krhlinnshann to Brefiidshoi, vi3, the Raadhut-Plads (p. 420;
PI. H, 7) and Farimat's-Gaden (PI. I, 3).
6. Froii) thii Ve.tlre Kirkegaard (PI. D, 4) l«y the Isled- Gaden (PI. E,
F, 8), New Glyptothek (p. 4'27; PI. II, I, 7). and Storni-Gaden; then a.s in
l>ine 1 via Kongnns-.VijIorr (p. 410; PI. K, 5, 6) to Trianglen (PI. I, Ij and
fisterbro.
7. From Kongens Kytorr (p. 410; PI. K, 5, 6) by Oolhers-Oaden (PI. K, I, 5),
Njfrrevold-Gaden, Frederiksborg-Gaden (PI. H, 5), and Dronning-Louises-Bro
(p. 426) to X^rmbro-Gaden.
8. From the Raadhv s - Pladt to GriffenfeldU- Gaden by the Vesterbro
Passage (p. 427; Tivoli), Gammel - Kongevei (PI. G, F, 7), Vodrofsvei
(PI. F, 8, ?), Aa Hwulevard (PI. F, E, 5), and Assistens-Kirkegaard.
10. Sglvgiulen Litie (horse- tramway): from Kongens- Niitorv by Bred-
(iaden, l>ronnings-Tvaer-Gaden (P1.K,5), S0lv-GadeH(Pl.K,I.4), Art Museum
(p. 42UJ. and Fredensbro-Tagensvei (comp. PI. H, G, 3, 2).
11. Nerregaden Line (horse-tramway): from the Gammel-Torv (p. 416;
PI. H, I, 6) through N^rre-Gaden and Farimags Gaden (PI. I, 3).
12. From Kongetis-Xytorv to the Kaadhus- Plads (omnibus) by 0ster-
Gaden, Vimmelskaftet, and Frederiksborg-Gadeu (PI. K, L, 6-H, 7).
13. From the Heihro to the Dronning-Loitises-Bro{ovimhuii)^ via, the H0ib\ti-
Plads, Kj0bniager-Gaden, and FrederiksLorg-Gaden (PI K, I, 6-H, 5).
14. Frederiksberg Line : from the Raadhus-Plads as above (Xo. 8) to the
Gawmel-Kongevei. returning through the Falkoner-AUe (PI. C, D, 5, 4)
and the Aa Boulevard (PI. F, E, 5).
15. From the Frederikslierg-Rnnddel to the Xerrehro-Runddel through the
Falkoner-Alle and the .Tagtvei (PI. C, 7-E, 3).
Baths. Jijebenhavn Rathivg FslahHshmeiit , Studie-Strsede (PI. H, 6;
opened in 19U3). Turkish Baths,, Tordenskjolds-Gaden 10 (PI. K, L, 6; warm
bath 75 «r,, Turkish 1 kr. 80jzr.). — Sea Baths on the E. side of the Refs-Haleei
(Pl.N, 3; steam-ferry from theToldbod); also at numerous establishments
on the titrandvei (which is traversed by tramway No. 1); bath 20, towel
5-1(1 0. The farther from the city the clearer the water.
Post Office (PI. 31; 1, U), Store Kj0bmager-Gaden 33; open 8 a.m. lo
9 p.ul. ; Sun. 8-9 a.m., 12-2 and 5-7 p.m. ; poste restante to the right. Postage
for a letter within Denmark 10 0., within the town 5 0., foreign 20 *(.
• - Telegraph Office, in the same building, entrance from Valkendorl's-
Gaden.
Shops. Royal Porcelain Factory, Amagertorv 10 (founded in 1772; since
1882 in the hands of a company and now in a very nourishing condition,
see p. 409). — Vases, Statuettes, and Reliefs (after Thorvaldsen , etc.):
Bing ti Orenda/il, Amagertorv 8; V. Wiiikel ,£• Uagnnssen, H0ibro-Plads 7;
fiitx, 03ter-Gadeu 26; Ipsens Fnke, Amagertorv 5. — Photographs: at the
booksellers' Tryde and Ursiu (see below). — Danish CJloves, good and
not expensive: in the shops in 0ster-Gaden and K.)0bmager-Gaden. —
GigarB : Hirschsprung, ld>^XvT-(ia.Ae\\ 6; M'. ./o'r^ettiert, jyfster-Gaden 61; Larsen,
Aiuager-Torv 9; Rasmuisen, Knderiksborg Gadeu 38.
Booksellers. A. F. J/Oat ,(■ Son, Bred-Gaden 35; O. C. Urain^s Efter-
felger, Kjebmager -Gaden 8 ; V. Tnjde, J0fster-Gadeu 3, on the Kongens Nytorv ;
O. E. C. Gad, Vimmelskaftet 32 (ordnance maps); Lehmrmn /(■ Stage, I.0v-
strsede 8; Wilh. I'rior, by the Round Tower (p. 417); l'. Thaning d- Appet,
Kj0bmager-Gaden 16.
Banks. Nationalbwiken , Holmens-Kanal 17; Privatbanken , Kongens
Nytorv 28 and Ny-Oaden 7; Landsmandsbanken, llolmens-Eanal 12.
Theatres. Royal Thealre{Pl. 41, K 6; p. 410), from 1st Sept. to 3l3t May;
drama (Ibsen), opera, and ballet (good). Ordinary charges (sometimes in'
408 Route 68. COPENHAGEN. Practical Notes.
creased 50-100 per cent): tront stalls S'/z, second stalls 23/<, pit 2, dreas-
circle 3 kr. — Dagmar Theatre (P). 5(1; H, 7), Jernbane-Oaden. — Casino
Theatre (PI. 40; L, 5), Auialic-Gaden iO. — L'olke-Teater (PI. 39 ; H, 5), Ngtrre-
O.aden 81. — Tickets may be ordered in iidvancc at the newspaper-kiosques
(fee 10 0.).
The Tivoli (PI. H, 7), near the Main Railway Station, is a large and
very popular summer-establishment for all kinds of amusements, concerts
(two halls), theatre, panorama, switchback-railway, fire-works, etc. The
performances generally begin at 6 and end about 10 p.m. The concerts
(classical concert on Sat., frequented by the better classes) end about
11 p.m. Adm. 50-75 /iT. (change obtained at the 'Byttekontor', outside);
programme 10 0. — The Etablissement Natioiial (adm. 50 0.), opposite the
Tivoli, the Circus Variiti, the Sommerlpst, and the other cafe's in the
Frederiksberg-Alle (p. 429), are similar places of recreation, with farces,
operettas, etc. — Panoplikum, see below. — See the newspaper an-
nouncements under the heading 'Forlystelser'.
Legations and Consulates. British Minister, Sir W. E. Ooschen, Bred-
Gaden 26; American Minister, Laurils S. Stcenson, Esq., Bred-Gaden 30. —
British Consul, Capt. Jas. Boyle, Holbergs-Gaden 28; American Consul, John
C. Freeman, Esq., Holbergs-Gaden 26. — liLoro's Agents, Messrs. Hecksher
A Son.
English Church (St. Albon^s), in the Esplanade, between the citadel
and the custom-house (PI. F, 3, 4); services at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m.; Itev.
Mortimer E. Kenned]/, chaplain to the British Legation, Bredgaden 26.
The Danish Tourist Club (Den Danske Turisiforening), Ny-jB^ster-Gaden 7
(PI. K, 6), gives gratis information on travelling in Denmark (office-hours
9-4, in winter iO-3).
Diary (comp. the 'Erindringsliste' in the Berlingske Tidende, as the
hours are frequently changed).
Arsenal (p. 411), Wed., from May to Sept., 1-3.
"Art Museum (p. 420), daily, except Mon., 11-3; engravings on Tues. A'
Frid., 11-2.
/iotanical Garden (p. 425), daily from 1 till dusk ; hot-houses and palm
house from 1st April to 3ist Oct. daily, 2-6.
Frederiks-Kirke (p. 418), week-days 9-12 ; adm. to the dome all day in summer.
Danish National Museum (Dansk Folke- Museum; p. 427; PI. G, 7), daily
10-3, 50 0.; catalogue 30 0.
aiyplolhek. New (p. 427), daily, 1-4, .50 0., free on Sun. & Wednesday.
'Qlyptothek, Old (p. 430), daily, from 1st May to 30th Sept., 1-4, 50 0., Sun. &
holidays 250.
Industrial Art Museum (p. 427), Sun., 12-3 and 6-8; Tues. & Frid., 6-8;
Wed., Thurs., & Sat., 12-3.
Library, Royal (p. 411), week-days 11-2, reading-room 10-3, closed from
23rd June to 22nd July or from 23rd July to 22nd August.
Markets. Vegetable and Pish Market in the H0ibro-Plad3 and the Oammel-
strand (PI. K, 1, 6), from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Cattle Market (Kvcegtoi-r ;
PI. (i, 8), with abattoir, busiest on Thursdays.
"National Museum. 1. Danish Collection (p. 414), from 1st June to 3ist Aug.,
dailv, except Mon., 12-3; in Sept., Sun. 12-3, week-days, except Mon.,
1-3; from 1st Oct. to 31st May, Sun. 12-3 & Thurs. 12-2. — 2. Ethno-
graphical Collection (p. 415), from 1st June to 3l9t Aug., Sun. 12-3,
week-days, except Mon., 10-1; in Sept., Sun. 12-3, Tues. <fc Sat. 10-12;
from 1st Oct. to 31st May, Sun. 12-3, Wed. 10-12. — 3. Collection of
Antiquities (p. 416), from Ist June to 31st Aug., Sun. 12-3, Tues. & Frid.
1-3; from 1st Sept. to 31st May, Sun. 12-3, Frid. 1-3. — 4. Collection
0/ Coins and Medals (p. 416), Mon. <fe Frid. 12-2; from 10th Oct. to
30th April, Mon. only, 12-2.
Panoptikum, Vesterbro Passage, adjoining the Tivoli, daily, 1-7 (1 kr.).
Picture Gallery, Moltke's (p. 417), from 1st April to 31st Oct., Wed. 12-2.
Strangers are alsn admitted at other times on application one day In
advance,
Hhtory. COPENHAGEN. 68. Route. 409
Htjseuborg, Palace of (p. 4!25), from 1st June to 31st Oct. daily, lU-o U kr.};
closed on the first Tues. of every month ; in April and May, Sun. 10-3,
Won., Wed., and Frid. 11-2 (.50 0.); 1st Nov. to 31st March, Sun. 11-2,
Tues. and Frid. 12-2 (50 0.).
Hound Tower (p. 417j, 10-2 (Sun. only after the conclusion of the service
in the Trinity Church), 10 0; Wed. & Sat. 12-1, free.
Thorvaldseii Museum (p. 412), daily 11-3, Mon., Tues., Thurs., & Sat., 50«r.
i'or-Frue-Kirke (p. 416), week-days 9-11, in winter 10-11 (sacristan 25 0.) ;
at other times shown by the sacristan (Studie-Strsede 16), for 1 kr.
each person.
Zoological Garden (p. 430), daily, 50 0.
Zoological Museum (p. 417), Sun. 11-2 and Wed. 12-2.
Principal Sights. Vor-Frue-Kirke (p. 416); Thorvaldsen Museum
(p. 412); Kew Glyptothek (p. 427); Palace of Rosenborg (p. 426) ; National
Museum (p. 411); Old Glyptothek (p. 430) ; Art Museum (p. 420) ; view from
the Round Tower (p. 417); an evening at the Tivoli (p. 408); Byrehave
(p. 431) ; excursion to Frederiksborg (p. 435) and Helsingefr (p. 438).
Copenhagen, Dan. Kehenhavn, tlie capital of the kingdom of
Denmark and the residence of the king, with (1901) 480,000 inhab,,
including the suhurhs, lies in 55° 40' 42" N. lat., on hoth sides of
the Kalvebodstrand, a narrow and deep strait of the Sound which
separates Zealand from the small island of Amager. This strait
forms the excellent Harbour, to which the city was indebted for its
early prosperity in trade. The commercial harbour is separated from
the war-harbour ('Orlogshavn') by a barrier across the Kalvebod-
strand. A new free harbour, to the N. of the citadel, was opened in
1894. Copenhagen, the only fortress in Denmark, is protected by
advanced works both on the land and seaward side. Several of the
art and science collections of Copenhagen are of the highest rank.
Ciipenhagen was founded in the 12th cent, by Absalon, Bishop (if
r.iiskilde, and increased so rapidly through its trade, that King Christopher
till' Bavarian made it his capital and residence in 1443. Christian IV.
'1588-1648; p. Ixxiii), the most popular of the Danish kings, renowned
not only as a warrior, but also as a wise ruler and a patron of industry
and commerce, of science and art, greatly extended the town, chiefly by
founding the Krislians/iavn quarter on the island of Amager. In his reign
were built some of the finest edifices in the city, such as the Palace of
Rosenborg, the Exchange and the Holmens-Kirke, as well as the once strong
fortifications, which successfully defied Charles X. of Sweden in 1658 and
1659, and the united British, Butch, and Swedish fleets in 1700. The
development of the city was powerfully influenced by the so-called Royal
liaw of 1665, by which the Banish people and clergy, jealous of the power
of the nobility, conferred absolute sovereignty upon King Frederick UI.
(1648-70; p. Ixxii). Thenceforward Copenhagen became more and more
distinctly the material and intellectual centre of the nation. Christian V.
(1670-99), the first Danish monarch to summon French artists to his court,
improved the external appearance of his capital by widening its streets and
encouraging the building of stone houses. Christian VI. (1730-46) founded
the Royal Scientific Society in 1742-43, and Frederick V. (1746-66) established
the Academy of Art in 1754. The bombardment of the city and capture
of the entire Banish fleet by the British, 2nd-5th Sept., 1807, in order to
prevent it falling into the hands of the French, put an end for a time to
the naval power fif Benmark. Cojicnhageu is now the centre of the whole
trade of Bcnm;irk and imports and exports more than all the rest of
the kingdom put together. The staple exports are butter, cattle, grain,
leather, wool, train-oil, etc. The industries arc less developed, but the
Royal Porcelain Factory (p. 4U7) has recently obtained a high reputation
^10 Route as. COPENHAGEN. ChnrloUenhorg.
for its independent development in form and colour, which has alfoided
a model for the rest of Euroiie.
a. Quarters between the Kongens Nytorv and the Western
Boulevards.
On tin: accoiiipani/inij Plan (>/ thi' Inner Town the names, of many huildingf^
indicated on the larger plan bii nurnhers, are printed in full. — Fcr note on
the nsc. of Oade, Gnden, and so on, .fee p. 3.
Near the centre of the old or inner city lies the Kongkns Nytorv
(^King's New Market; PI. K, L, 5, 6), a large irregular space, laid
out at the end of the 17th cent, and still the focus of the more
fashionable life of the capital. In the centre rises the Equeitrian
Statue of Christian V. (d. 1099), cast in lead in 1688 and popularly
called 'Hesten' (the horse). The square is surrounded by handsome
buildings. On the S. E. side are the palace of Charlottenborg
and the Royal Theatre (p. 407); between them, at the corner of
Tordenskjold-Gaden, the Foreign Office, and, to the S. of the latter,
at the comer of the Holmens-Kaual (p. 411), is the Commtrcial
Bank, both built by C. F. Harsdorff, (1735-99), who received his
architectural training in Paris and Rome. At the corner of Bred-
Gaden are the Thotts Palais, dating from the end of the 17th cent.,
ami the ofticc (No. 6) of the Standard Life Insurance Co. (London),
built of Norwegian marble. On the W. side are the Hotel d'Angleterro
(p. 405) and (Nos. 26-28) the office of the Ureal Northern Telt-
tjraph Co., with a figure of Electra on the pediment, by S.Sinding.
— On the E. side is the palace of —
Charlottenborg (PI. 20; L, G), begun by Count Gyldenlave iti
1672, purchased in 1700 by Queen Charlotte Amelia, and occupied
since 17.54 by the Royal Academy of Art; the hall of the meetings
contains portraits and busts. Behind the Academy is the Art Hall.
{^Kunstudstillings- Bygning'' ; entered from the Nyhavn), which is
used for annual exhibitions of art from 1st April to 31st July, and
also contains a collection of casts. The valuable Hirschsprung
Collection of pictures by Danish artists of the 17th cent., bequeathed
to the State in 1902, is being warehoused here pending its reception
in a suitable building. — Adjoining the palace opens the Nyhavn,
a canal-like arm of the harbour, used by smaller vessels. Its quays
are lined with old gabled houses.
To the S. rises the Royal Theatre (PI. 41 ; K, 6), a hand-
some Renaissance structure by Petersen and Dahle.rwp , built
in 1872-74. To the right and left of the entrance are bronze
statues of the Danish poets, HoZ6erc/ (1684-1754), by Th. Stein,
and Oehlenschldger (1779-1850), by Bissen. Ludwig Holberg,
born at Bergen in Norway, but a professor in Copenhagen from
1717 till his death, is the founder of Danish comedy. Adam Oehlen-
schlJiger, anotlier Copenhagen professor (1820- 50) , is Denmark's
'p —
'•i>
i?~P-^tsi
^ Vrf t^—M %,*
KM
■■t
Christiansbory Palace. CUPENHAGEN. (!8. Route. 411
greatest dramatist. The vestibule contains marble statues of tlie
poets J. Ewald (d. 1781 ) and J. H. Wessel (d. 1785). The foyer is
adorned with iiumerotis busts and with a figure of Ophelia (in
relief), by Sarah Bernhardt.
By following the Holmens-Kanal, as the street beyond the
theatre is called, we pass a statue of the Danish naval hero Niels
Juel (p. 4-iO ; d. 1697), the Landmands Bank (on the right; the old
main building is by Harsdorff), and (on the left) the National Bank
(PI. 30; K, 6), and reach the Holmens-Bro (bridge), opposite the
Christiansborg Palace (see below). By the bridge, on the left, is
the HoLMENs-KiRKE (PI. 10; K, 7), built early in the 17th cent.
and restored in 1872. The altar and pulpit are elaborately carved
in wood (1661-62). A side-chamber contains the monuments of
the naval heroes Niels Juel and Peter Tordenskjold (p. Ixxiv), of
little artistic value. The sacristan ('Kirkebetjent') lives at Laxen-
Gadeii 16, corner of Holmens-Gaden. On the W. side of the chnrch
is a Statue of Tordenskjold, by Bissen.
The Christiansborg Palace (PI. I, K, 7) is situated on the
Slotsholraen, or '( astle island', which forms the centre of the oldest
part of the town, and was fortified in 1168. The present building,
by Ho7isen, replaces one erected by Christian VI. inl 7B3-40 and
burned down in 1794, and was itself largely destroyed by fire in
1884. A few portions, to the right and left of the main building,
were spared by the fire; among them (at the N. W. angle) the
dome-covered Slots- Kirke (PI. 15; I, K, 6), built in 1826. The
principal fagade, looking E., is in the Slots-Plads, which is approached
by the Holmens Bridge. In front rises an Equestrian Statue of
Frederick VII., the founder of the constitution (1848-63), in bronze,
by Bissen, erected in 1873. In the grounds round the statue arc
placed allegorical figures of Strength, Wisdom, Health, and Justice
(the last executed by Bissen), designed by Thorvaldsen, which
flanked the portal of the palace before the last fire.
Til tlie S. E. of tte palace is the Royal Library (PI. 18, K7; entrance
from Tt(ihu3-Gaden; adm., see p. 408), roundod by Frederick 111. about
166T), containing 550,tXX) vuls. and upwards of 20,000 MSS., including many
Northern and Oriental codices. A new huililin;; lor the library, designed
by H. .1. Holm is in course of erection in Kristians-Gaden. — The ad-
.ioining Arsenal (Teiihus) contains a collection of weapons and trophies
(adm., see p. 408).
(^n the quay, to the E. of Ghristiansborg, rises the Exchange
(PI. 3; K, 7), erected in 1619-40 in the Dutch Renaissance style
by Hans von Steemrinkel, and restored by Fenger in 1872-82. It has
ornate gable-fa<;ades, numerous dormer-windows, and a tower
16,5 ft. high, the top of which consists of four dragons with en-
twined tails. The hall, entered from the side next the palace,
contains a statue of Christian IV. in bronze, by Thorvaldsen. The
lower part of the building is occupied by shops, the upper by
412 iiowtc 6'.S. OOI'KNIIAGKN. ThorvaUhen
offices. Busiuess-liour 2-3 p.m. daily (visitors admitted 12-1.30,
fee; after 2p.m., 26 e.).
The Knippels-Bro, at the back of the Exchange,crosses the harbour
to the Kristianshavn quarter (tramway No. 2), where the curious
tower of Vor Frelsers Kirke iChurch of Our Redeemer; PI. 7, L M 7),
erected in 1749, rises conspicuously (286 ft. in height). A winding
staircase (397 steps) outside ascends to the top, which is crowned
with a figure of the Redeemer (popularly called 'Manden', i.e. the
man). *View, extending to the coast of Sweden. Adm. from 9 till
dusk; sacristan ('Graver'), Prindsesse-Gaden 40, on the S. side of
the tower; fee for 1-12 pers. 2 kr.
On the N.W. side of the palace stands the **Tliorvaldsen
Museum (PI. 43; I, 6, 7), a sombre edifice erected by Bindesbell
in 1839-47, and containing a complete collection of the works of
the greatest of Northern sculptors, Bertel Thorvaldgen (1770-1844).
Born at Griinne-Gaden, No. 7 (PI. K, 5), as the tablet on the
house testifies, Thorvaldsen went to Rome in 1797 as an exhibitioner
of the Academy of Copenhagen and remained there with scarcely a
break until 1838. Here he may be said to have resuscitated the
plastic art of antiquity, while at the same time he informed it with
the genuine spirit of Germanic idealism. He gave back to statuary
the dignified simplicity and repose which the exaggerated unrest
of the baroque period had destroyed. As a master of idealistic relief
he is unapproachable. — The building is in the style of an Etruscan
tomb. Over the portico of the facade is a goddess of victory in a
quadriga, in bronze, designed by Thorvaldsen and executed by
Bissen. The other three sides of the building are adorned with a
series of scenes in plaster by J. V. Sonne, representing the reception
of the great master at Copenhagen on his return from Italy in 1838.
Entrance (adm., see p. 409) by the small door opposite the palace
(catalogue 45 ».).
In the following survey the figures in parenthesis denote the years
in which the original works were executed. The marble sculptures in
the museum consist almost entirely of copies by Thorvaldsen's pupils.
The open court in the centre contains the master's tomb.
Ground Floor. From the entrance we proceed straight through the
corridor and turn to the left into the Vestibdle. (The dates indicate the
time when the works were modelled, whereas their execution in marble
often took place much later and was partly carried out by Thorvaldsen's
pupils.) No. 128. Elector Maximilian 1. of Bavaria (modelled 1833-34;
bronze at Munich); to the left, 123. Poniatowski (1827; designed for War-
saw), these two being colossal equestrian statues; 142-145. Monument of
Pius VII. (1824-31; Rome).
We now return to the corridor and follow it to the left to reach the
Cabinets.
Cabinet I. 40, 42. Ganymede (1805 and 1816). — Cab. 11. 27. Cupid
and Psyche (1804); 426. The At;es of Love (1824); 430. Cupid reviving the
fainting P.^yche (I.'^IO); .585, 5R7. Genii, reliefs (1833). — Cab. III. 29. The
Graces .and Cupid (1819);340. ^>an(^e of tlie Muses onHelicdu, relief (designed
in 1804, altered in 1816); 371, 396, 397, 375, 393. Cupid idvlls, reliefs (1831-33).
— Cab. IV. 11. Venus with the apple of Paris (1813-16); 414. Winter!
(1823), 410, 412. Summer and Autumn (1811), 409a. Bacchus giving Cupid
Museum.
COPENHAGKN.
ns. Route. 413
Jfink, reliefs. — Cab. V. 51. Jason with the golilen (leeee (1802); 489.
15rl.sei.s led from tUe tent of Achilles (I8u3l; *49'2. I'riam begging the body
of Hector from Achilles
(1815J; reliefs. — Oal>.
VI. 38. Hebe (1816);
321-324. nercule.s aud
Hebe, /Ksculapius und
Hygieia, Minerva und
Prometheus, Neme.sis
and Jupiter, reliefs
(1803-10). — Cab. VII.
6. Mar.i and Cupid
(1810); 49a. Hector with
Paris and Helen (1809) ;
501. Hector bidding
farewell to Andro-
mache and the young
A.styanax (1837). —
Cab. VIII. 46. Hope
(1818); 307, 3G8. Morn-
ing and Night, reliefa
(1815). — Cab. IX. 8.
Vulcan (1838); 49T.
Athena awarding to
Odysseus the arm.s of
Aibille.i, relief (1831).
— Cab. X. 4. Jlercury
as the slaver of Argus
(1818); 352, 351, 407,
416. Pan, Satyr, and
Cupi<l group.'! (1818 33).
— Cab. XI. 166. Count-
ess Ostcrmann (1816); I-XXI. Ground Floor.
171. Prince.ss Haria-
tinska (1818); 451. Cupid and Hvmen (1840); 618. Death of Baroness Schu-
bart (1818), reliefs. — Cab. XII. 124. Equestrian statue of Prince Ponia-
towski (1827); and a number <if porlrait-busts.
The Chkistus Ruum (the Cella) contain.^! the models of the Sculptures
for Vor-Frue-Kirkc mentioned <at p. 416. — We now descend the Cokuiuok.
On the pillars between the windows are fine reliefs. To the left: 252.
Apotheosis of Napoleon, marble bu.st (1830); 52. Statue of Jason; 233.
Lewis I. <>{ Bavaria (1S22) ; 255. Sir Walter Scott; 162. Thorvaldsen lean-
ing on a statue of Hope. — We then inspect the cabinets on this side,
in the inverse order of their numbering, which begins at the entrance.
Adjoining the Christ us K lom On the left is —
Cab. XXI. 152. Christian IV.; 1,50. Conradin, the last of the Hohen-
staufen (1836; marble at Naples). — Cali. XX. 16'2A. Thorvaldsen, marble
statue (1839) ; 232. Louis I. of Bavaria (1822) ; 601. The Graces listening to the
aong of Cupid, relief (1821); 518a. Art and a light-spreading Genius, relief. —
Cab. XIX. 170. Shepherd-bov (1817); 4^2. Hylas and the Nymphs, relief
(1831); 638-641. The four Ages" of Man and the Seasons (18.3G). — Cab. XVIll.
31. The Graces with Cupid's shaft (1842). — C.ib. XVII. 53a. Adonis (1808);
480. Nessus and Dejaneira. relief (1814); 647a. Amazon; 046a. Mounted
hunter (1331): 488a. Achilles and the Centaur Chiron. — Calp. XVI. 22 a.
Cupid triumpliant (1S14); 377-380. Four reliefs, Cupid as ruler of the ele-
ments (1823); 395, 4.54. Cupid groups (1831). — Cab. XV. 155a. Prince Wla-
dimir Poloclci (original at Cracow; 1821); 514. Alexander the Great in-
duced by Thais t(j set the temple of Persepolis on lire (1832). — Cab. Xl\.
44. Ganymede with the eagle of Jupiter (1817), on the plinth; 339. Cupid
on a lion (1S31); 391, 417. Cupid groups, the latter (Cupid stung by a
hee and complaining to Venus ; 1S09) esjiecially charming; 424. Shepherd-
e.ss with a nest of Cupids (1831); 484. Ilylas and the Nynipln (1^33). —
22-42. First Floor.
414 Tioute 68. . COPENHAGEN. National Museum.
Cab. XIII. 130. Lord Byron, with relief on the pedestal (1831) ; 343. Cupid
listening to the song of Krato (1830); 365. The Fates, relief (1833).
On the staircase leading to the UrpEK Stokt: Hercules or Strength,
from the portal of the Christiansborg Palace (1843; p. 411). — Above, in
the CoBKiDOK, to the left: 508. Alexander's Entrance intu Babylon (1812;
original in the Villa Carlotta on Lake Como), on a reduced scale and
somewhat altered; 509. Variation of the central part. On both sides
of the corridor are a number of models and casts: 2. Bacchus; 3. Apnllo
(both of 1805); 37. Hebe (1806). — In Cabinets 22-32 is Thorvaldsen's
collection of paintings, including works by Over-beck, Cornelius, W. Sc/iadow,
Leopold Robert, liicliter, Horace Vernet, etc. ; also statues by Thorvaldsen.
lu Cab. 23: 17Sa. Dancing girl (1837). Cab. 21: Love triumphant (1823);
Cab. 25 : 173a. Georgina Russell ('la fanciulla' ; 1814). Cab. 2(! : ISO. Dancing
girl (1837). Cab. 27. Cupid playing the lyre (1819). Cab. 29. Cupid with
the bow (1814). Cab. 31. Psyche (1811). In Cab. 32 selections from Thor-
valdsen's rich collection of engravings and drawings are exhibited (per-
iodically changed). Cab. 33. Sketches, designs, etc., by Thurvaldsen. Cab. 34.
649. Marble chimuey-piece by Thorvaldsen ; also casts from the antique.
Cabinets 35-40 contain Thorvaldsen's collection of antiques, Cab. 41 his
library, and Cab. 42 his unfinished works, furniture from his apartments,
and his bust, by Bissen.
The sunk-floor, containing relics, casts, works by Thorvaldsen's pupils,
etc., is open on Wed., 11-3.
On the Frederiksholms-Kanal, to the S. W. of Christiansborg,
heyonfl the bridges, is the Prindaens-Palais (V\. 33 ; I, 7), built about
the middle of the 18th century. It now contains the **National
Museum, embracing four distinct sections: the Danish, the Ethno-
graphical, the Antique, and the Numismatic. Adm., see p. 408.
We cross the court, which contains prehistoric and liomaiiesqne
stone monuments, and enter the —
1. *Danish Collection (Dan»lce Samliny), founded in 1807
on the initiative of Prof. Nyerup, extended between 1815 and 186.5
under the care of C. J. Thomstn and in 1866-85 by J. J. A. Wormne
[A. 1885), and now under the direction of Dr. Sophus Midler and
Dr. V. Mollerup. There are two chief departments : the Prehistoric
Collection (^down to about 1000 A.I).), which occupies eight rooms
on the groundfloor and is probably the finest of the Iciiid, and the
Historic Collection (the middle ages and modern times down to
16601, exhibited in nine rooms on the first floor. The whole
collection is at present in process of re-arrangement.
GkOund Floor. — The Vestibule (catalogues for sale; Danish edition
1 kr.) contains busts of the above-mentioned promoters of the museum,
and also Runic and ecclesiastical monuments of the early-Romanesque
period. — We turn to the left.
Rooms I-llI : Stone Period (extending to ca. 1500 B.C.). — I. Rude tools
and weapons of bone and flint, found in the 'Kjokkenmoddlnger' or 'kitchen
middens', as the prehistoric mounds of bones, shells, table-refuse, etc.,
found on the Danish coast, are termed. In the middle of the room is a
fragment of a kitchen-midden. — II. Objects of the later stone period, that
of the great stone graves ; polished implements and tools, some of which art*
beautifully executed and elegant in shape (Nos. 15-43). No. 32. Grindstones ;
44, 52, 53. Amber ornaments; tiy the window, a stone a.\e with wooden
handle (kept in spirits). — 111. baggers, lances, arrow heads, battle-axes,
and club-heads ; objects found in sepulchres and stone coflJus; clay vessels
with primitive ornamentation. — We uuw cross the landing on tbe other
side of the vestibule and enter —
National Museum. COPENHAGEN. OS. Route. 415
r.onms IV, V: 'Bronze Period (ca. l.")lX>-500 r..C.). This is one of the
linest .-^cctinns of the niureum. especially rich in swords and other weapons,
ornaments, bronze utensils, and articles of gold plate. The first part of
Room IV is devi ted to objects of the early bronze period. These include
articles found in oak or stone coffins and in smaller tombs (cases near the
windows); "Articles of clothing taken from oak-cuffins found in Jutland,
and modern reproductions of the clothing on the figures of a man anrt
woman: image of a sun-god. from the Trundholm Moor in Zealand. The
later bronze period (in the farther portion of the room) is represented by
weapons, tools, ornaments, large trumpets, or 'Ltiren, peculiar to the
North, etc. By the windows are objects found in tombs. By the exit-
wall are 28 golden beakers. This room also contains a bronze- mounted
Chariot from the Deibjerg Moor in Jutland, which dates from the Pre-
Koman iron period and was perhaps used in religious ceremonies, and also
a relief-map of Iha 'Dannevirke', the great land-fortification of S. Sleswick,
dating either from antiquity or from the earliest mediseval times. —
Room V contains four embo?sed "Bronze Shields, of foreign workmanship,
and some native metal-work and castings. A 'Map of Jutland shows the
roads and habitaUon« of the country at that period. Two cabinets contain
objects dating fn m the ]ire-Roman iron-period.
Rooms VI-VIII : Iron Period (B.C. .5U0 to 1000 A.D.). — VI. Pre-Romau
period fca. 2C0 B.C. to 1 K.C.I and Roman period (ca. 1-300 A.D.). Weapons
and tools in iron; earthenware eating and drinking utensils; goods of
Roman manufacture; Roman statuettes in bronze; 'Silver Basin with
embossed decoration, of Northern origin, but in the Gallo-Roman stvlc
(1-100 AD.). — VII. Period of the Great Migrations (4th and 5th cent.).
Model - figure of a northern warrior of the period; arms, horse -gear,
wooden targes, tools, household-utensils, and agricultural implements. — •
VIII. Post-Roman iron period (up to the 8th cent.), and Viking period
(8-lOth cent.). Gold and silver ornaments, gold bracteates , ring-money;
reproductions of two golden horns, with representations from Northern
mythology, which were stolen from the Royal Treasury in 1802; silver
and golden vessels, some partly painted vessels of glass and clay, fine
bronze implements, ornaments, elaborate weapons and jewelry; "^Horse
Trappings in gilded bronze; objects found in the curious royal tomb of
wood which 'was dug up at Jellinge in Jutland; rows of iron swords, etc.
On the Staircase are Runic stones and ecclesiastical relics from the
earliest period of Northern Christianity.
FiKST Floor. The collecfiim of mediaeval and modern objects is
neither so interesting nor so extensive ;is the prehistoric department.
Rooms XI-XV. Middle Ages (1000-1536). — XI. Romanesque period
(1000-12.50). "Wooden altars, adorned with embossed copper-gilt plaques;
ecclesiastical utensils; ecclesiastical vestments; weapons. — XII-XV. Gothic
period (1300-1536). Ecclesiastical vessels ; ornaments ; carvings ; instruments
of torture and punl'^hment, oatiincts, chests, weapons. Runic calendar-
staves, seals, domestic utensils, and drinking-horns.
Rooms XVI-XIX. Modern Period, including the early (1536-88) and the
late Renaissance (1588-1660). Furniture, arms and armour, ornaments,
jewelry, tapestry from the castle of Kronborg; watches of the 16-t7th cent.
The carved bed of state in R. XIX is a masterpiece of the reign of
Christian IV. The same room contains silver beakers and spoons, glass
and stoneware, gold ornaments, and iron mounts. — These rooms also
contain historical relics.
2. The *Ethnogr.\i'iiical Collkction (ontraiico in the court,
to the left; romp. 408), founded in liS49, is excelled by few in
Europe. It contains objects from non-European and from primitive
and barbarous European nation.s , ilUistratiilg their religions,
costumes, warlike ami pcacfful arts, manufactures, etc. Greenland
and India arc especially well represented. \
\
416 Route 68. C0PENHAGP:N. Vnk-crHly.
3. The Collection of Antiquities, on the grouiidfloor, contains
Egyptian, Assyrian, P.abylonian, PhoBnician, Etruscan, Greek, and
Roman antiquities, arranged in chronological order. It comprises a
number of good specimens; the collection of Greelc vases inRoomlV,
both red-figured and blacli-flgurcd , and two marble heads from a
metope of the Parthenon deserve special mention (adni., see p. 408;
catalogue 1 kr.).
3. The Royal Collection of Coins and Mei>als (adm., see
p. 408) contains over 125,000 specimens. In Uoom I is the Danish
section, including gold medals of the 16-20th cent, and coins dat-
ing from the earliest period to the present day; in Room II arc
medijeval and later coins, of foreign origin ; in Room III are Greek,
Roman, and Byzantine coins.
From the Prindsens-Palais the Raadhus-Strfede leads to the N.W.
to the Nytorv og Gammkltorv ('new and old market'; PL H, I, 6).
To the left in the Nytorv is the Old Town Hall (PI. 34), erected
by Hansen in 1805-15, with a portico; in the tympanum are the
words with which the Jutland Code of 1240 begins: 'Merf Lov skal
man Land bygge ('with law one must establish i\\Q land'). The
busy Ny-Gaden, and beyond it the Vimmelskaft and 0ster-Gaden.
lead hence to the Kongens Nytorv, and form one of the briskest
thoroughfares in the city (comp. p. 410).
Passing the fountain in the Gammcltorv, we soon reach the Pro-
testant *Vor-Frue-Kirke ('Church of Our Lady'; PI. 8, H, 1,6), the
metropolitan church of Denmark, a simple but impressive struc-
ture built by C. F. Hansen in the so-called Greek Renaissance
style, replacing one which was destroyed in 1807.
On the right and left of the entrance are statues of Mcses and David,
by Bissen and Jeridiau, pupils of Thorvaldsen. The tympanum contains
a group of John the Baptist preaching in 1he wilderness, in marble (1822);
over the entrance, Christ's Kntry into Jerusalem, a bas-relief (1840), both
by Thorvaldscn.
Interior (adm., p. 409). The sole ornament consists of exquisite 'Jlarlile
Statuary, designed and partly executed by Thovvaldsen (1821-27): a Risen
Christ and the Twelve Apostles, over lifesize; a Kneeling Angol of strik-
ing beauty, holding a shell as a font; relief of the Bsiiring of the Cross
(1839), over the altar; in the two chapels, reliefs of the Baptism and Last
Supper (1820); above the alms -basin, bv the entrance, Guardian Angel
(183S) and Charity (1810). St. Paul (who" is substituted for Judas), with
the sword, entirely executed by the great master himself, is probably the
linest of the apostles; SS. John, James, Matthew, and the pensive Thomas
are next in excellence.
The 'View from the gallery of the tower (236 steps) is similar to that
from the Round Tower fp. 417). The sacristan (to be found in the tower,
9-11 a.m.) lives at St. Peder-Stra'de 27 (adm. 25 0.; for 4-12 pers. 1 kr.).
Nearly opposite the entrance to the church is the old Episcopal
Palace, restored in 1896.
In the Fruf.-Plads, to the N. of the church, are monuments to
celebrated Danish scholars and other notabilities.
The N. side of the square is bounded by the University (PL 45;
Round TuwcT. COPENHAGEN. r,8. Route. 417
11,1, G), founded by CliristiaTv I. in 1479, rc-organiscd in 1788,
hiirncd down in 1807, and rebuilt (_by Mailing) in hSol-oG (about
'2000 students, and oO professors). In the vestibule, bei^ide the
staircase, Apollo and Minerva, in marble, by Bisscn; above, fres-
coes by Hansen. 'i\w large Solcnnitet-Sal' is adorned with scenes
from the history of the University by Marslrand^ C. Block, V. Rosen-
sldnd, and E. llenningsen (porter in the sunk-floor). — Adjacent,
at the corner of the Fiol- Str;cde , is the University Library
(PI. 46; 1, 6), with '200,000 vol;^. and 4000 MSS., comprising many
early Persian and Indian (reading-room open 11-3 and D-8).
Ik'hind the University, in Krystal - Gadeu , is the extensive
Zoological Mu.seum (PI. 47; H, 6), containing a collection of
skeletons of prehistoric animals found in Denmark and a separate
department for whales (adm., see p. 409). — The adjacent German
CItirch of St. Peter (PI. 13; H, 6) contains a few paintings and
sepulchral chapels (sacristan, St. Peder-Strsede 9).
Krystal- Gaden leads hence to the N.E. to the Church of the
Trinittj (PI. 16), with its Round Tower (det runde Taarn; PI. 36,
1 0; adm., p. 409), 116 ft. high, built as well as the church itself
in the reign of ChristiaTi IV., and commanding an admirable *Virw
of the city and environs and of the Swedish coast in the distance.
The tower is ascended by a broad spiral causeway.
The busy K.j(*])magkr-Gai)H, with its numerous shops, leads
hence to the S.E. to the AiMArjERTORV and the lleuiUo-Pi.Ans (PI. I,
K, 6). In the latter is a fine Eijuesirlan Statue of Bishop Absalon,
by W. Bissen the Younger (1903); the pedestal was designed by
M. Nyrop.
b. Northern Quarters.
The district to the N.E. of the Kongens Nytorv, with its long
and wide streets, may be called the aristocratic quarter of Copen-
hagen. It includes the palace of Amalienborg, several mansions of
the nobility, and the embassies of the (Jreat Powers.
Brrd- Gadex (PI. L, 5, 4), beginning at the Thotts Palais
(p. 410) in the Kongens Nytorv, is the chief thoroughfare of the
ijnarter. To the right, at the corner of the St. AnncB-Plads, which
runs down to the harbour, is the Briliih Embassy. At the beginning
ol the St. Anna;-Plads is a bronze statue of Niels W. (hide (1817-90),
the composer, by Hissen (1897).
The Palace of Count Scbimmelmann (I'.red-Gaden "28), now the
Konzcrt-Pidais (PI. ol ; I., 5), is a large baroque structure, with a
court shut oft" from the street by a fine iron railing. — ■ Nearly op-
posite, at the corner of Pronningcns Tvrcr-liaden, stands the —
Palace oe Count Moltke-Hregentvf.h (TI. 26; L, 5), which
contains a *Collection of Netherlandish paintings formed by the
art-dealer Morell about the middle of the 18tli cent. (entr. Dron-
Baeuekek's Norway and Sweden. Stli Edit. '27
418 Route 68. COPENHAGEN. Northeryi Quarters :
ningens Tvajr-Gaden 2; adm., see p. 408). Some of the •works are
very valuable.
Nil. 8. Rubens, Half-length of a monk; 13-16. David Teniers the Younger.
FoiiT genuine works (dated 1646, 1666, 1667, and 1674); 3'2. RembramU,
Portrait of an old woman (about 1656) ; 56-59. Jac. van Rvi/sdael, Four late
works, two of tbem large (fine compositions witli waterfalls and rapids);
60, 61. M. Hobbema, Wooded Dutcli landscape", luminous in colouring and
hold in style; 93. Paul Potter., Cattle grazing (16.'i2); several genuine works
hy Phil. Wouverman, the finest being No. 89, The Stable.
Farther on, to the right, is the Palace of King George of Greece,
the first floor of which has been occupied, since the burning of the
Palace of Christiansborg (p. 411), by the Supreme Court of Den-
mark (Hejeste Ret).
To the left is the Frederiks-Kirke (PL L, 4, 5) or the Marble
Churcli, begun on a splendid scale in 1749 from the plans of the
French architect Jardin, left unfinished in 1767 for lack of funds,
and completed in 1878-94 at the cost of Hr. Tietgen, a wealthy
banker, from the designs of F. E. Meldald. The handsome copper-
sheathed dome, partly gilded, internally 141 ft., externally 263 ft.
in height, is a conspicuous object in the city when seen from the
environs. At the entrance to the church are statues of St. Ansgarius,
the Apostle of the North, and of Bishop (irundtvig (1783-1872),
who, by infusing new life into the spiritual conception of
Christianity, and by founding 'National Schools' in which Christian
teaching played an important part, greatly strengthened the position
of the Danish Church in the 19th century. The frescoes under tlie
dome, by Overgaard, and a marble statue of an angel, by S. Sinding.
should be noticed, among other works, in the interior. — Adjacent,
in Brcd-Gaden, is the Russian Alex. Neirsky Chapel, with three
gilded cupolas. Also to the left stands the Hall of the Danish Diet
(PI. 21; L, 4), erected as an opera-house in 1701 but used for its
j)resent purpose since the destruction of the Christiansborg Palace
(p. 411). Other buildings in Bred-Gaden are the >Surgeons' Hall
(PI. 17; No. 62), the Roman Catholic Chapel (PI. 11), and the large
Frederiks- Hospital (PI. 4; L, M, 4).
To the N.W. of the Hall of the Diet extends the Aybodtr, a
quarter laid out by Christian IV. for superannuated seamen, but
since practically rebuilt. A monument in Store Kongens-Gaden
commemorates Admiral Suen%on (d. 1887), the commander of the
Danish fleet at Heligoland on May 9th, 1864. Another, to
Christian IV., by Bissen (1901), stands at the corner of 0stervo]d-
Gaden and Delfln-Gaden.
Amalie-Gaden (pi. L, 5, M, 4), which begins at the St. Annas-
Plads, is broken by an Ionic colonnade, forming the approach to
an octagonal Plads, embellished with an equestrian ^Monument
of Frederick V. (d. 1766) in bronze, erected in 1771 by the Asiatic
Trading Company, and designed by Saly, a French sculptor. The
four uniform rococo buildings enclosing the Plads together form
the Amalienborg (PI. L,M,5), but were originally erected by Nic.
Lmuje Linie. COPENHAGEN. 6S. Route. 419
Eiijtved as separate palaces. That to the S. W., eroctcd for Count
Moltke, is now occupied by the King; that to the S.E. (Count
Scliack) by the Coronation and other .State Kooms; that to the N.K.
(Barou Brockdorff) by the Crown Prince ; and that to the N.W.
(Count Levetzau) by Prim-e Christian.
Bred-Gaden and Amalie-Gaden end on the N. at the Es-
planade (PI. C, M, 4), with its pretty grounds. The English
Church (St. Alban's; PI. M, 4), a tasteful Gothic building by
Blomfleld (1885-87), has a lofty and conspicuous spire. Adja-
cent are the Meteorological Institute (PI. 22; M, 4) and the Nordre
Toldhod (PI. 44), or custom-house. — To the N. of the Esplanade
is the Citadel of Frederikshavn (PI. L, M, 3), on the N.E. bastion
of wliich stands a monument, by Bindesboll (19t)2), commemorat-
ing the battle fought in the roadstead of Copenhagen with the
British fleet under Nelson on April 2nd, 1801. A street runs
through the Citadel to the Lange Linie (see below), near the Lyst-
baadehavn.
A viaduct (good view) crosses the rails connecting the Told-
bod with the Free Harbour and forms the approach to the *Lange
Linie (PI. M, 3, 2, 1), a pleasant promenade, extending to the E.
and N.E. of the Citadel for about 1 M. and much frequented on Sun.
and in the evening. Just beyond the viaduct is a Monument to Irar
Hvitfeldt. the heroic Danish commodore, who sank with his vessel
during the battle against the Swedes in the Kjergc Bngt on 4th Oct.,
1710 (p. 440). Farther on, to the left, is the L'tngelinie-'i Puvillon
(PI. M, 3), a good cafe-restaurant, with the headquarters of the lioynl
Yacht Club. Still farther ont is a Camera Obscura (PI. M, 3; 25 «.),
which affords a pleasing picture of the harbour when the sun shines.
To the N. of this is the Lystbaadeharn . dotted with pleasure-boats and
lined with the boat-houses of the rowing and sailing clubs. We skirt
the W. side of this basin and reach the 'New Lange Linie', which
runs along the E. mole of the new Free Harbour. The most con-
spicuous among the warehouses of this district is the lofty Grain
Storehouse (Silopalchus) on the central mole of the Free Harbour. In
the other direction we have a good view of the busy harbour and
the fort of Trekroner (N.). At the end of the mole are a beacon-light
and a cafe.
At the S. end of the Strand Boulevard (PI. L, 2) is a monument tn
y. W. Meyer, the aurist (d. l^'OJ), with a bust by Runeberg and a female
fifjurc tiy Bissen.
c. The Western Boulevards.
The ramparts on the landward side of Copenhagen have becti
removed since 1848, and on their site have been laid out three wiilc
boulevards, Nerrevold- Oaden, /dstervold - Gaden, and Vestervold-
Gaden.
In 0STERVOLD-GAUEN, at the intersection of Selv-Gadcu (trani-
27*
420 Route 08. COPENHAGEN. c. Wrslcrn Boulevards:
way from tlic Kongciis Nytorv, No. 10, p. 407j, is tlic now Art
Museum (sco below). In the square in front of it rises the Den-
mark Monument, erected in 1896, from a design by Hasselriis,
to commemorate the Golden Wedding (1892) of King ChristianlX.
and Queen Louisa (d. 1898). It includes a figure of Dania, portrait-
medallions of the Royal Family, and reliefs of the Marriage of the
I'rincess Alexandra with the Prince of Wales (now Edward VII. ;
1863), the Departure of Prince William to ascend the throne of
Greece as King George (1863), and the Marriage of the Princess
Dagmar witli the Grand-Duke, afterwards Czar Alexander III. of
Russia (1866). Adjacent are statues of H. V. Blssen, the sculptor
(p. 423), by W. Bissen, and V. Mnrstrand, the painter (p. 424),
by Ruueberg.
The *Art Museum (PI. I, 4), built in 1891-95 from the plans
of Dahlerup and Moller, contains the national collections of pictures,
sculptures, and engravings. To the right and left of the entrance
are busts of N. L. Heyen (d. 1870 ) and Julius Lange (d. 1806), the
writers on art. Adm., see p. 408. Short list of the paintings and
sculptures 25 e. ; catalogue of the picture-gallery in preparation. As
the collection is constantly being added to, the order is frequently
changed.
In the lobby, which we first enter, are two groups by Jul. Schultz
and G. Petersen, representing Adam and Eve's first consciousness
of guilt, and 'Sweet Sixteen', by W. liunebury. On the other side,
Hercules and Hebe, by J. A. Jerichau, David, by A. V. Saahyc,
Adam and Eve , by Jerichau , etc. On the first landing : right,
ChristianlX., hy Bisse7i, Foster Brothers, by Th. Lundherg; left,
Qneen Louisa, by Bissen, *Wife with her dead husband, by
S. Binding. — At the top, between the columns, Genius of Art,
by W. Runeberg (bronze). Several sculptures by Stein, Hassel-
riis, Bogehjerg, Schierheck, Saahye , and others are temporarily
placed here.
In the upper gallery are several works by Bissen. Jerichau, and
others. — To the left is the —
Collection of Older Paintings. Christian II., Christian IV.,
and other kings ordered pictures to be painted for them in Holland,
Germany, and Italy; but the main part of the collection was formed
by Frederick V. in the second half of the 18th cent., with the help
of the art-dealer G. Morell. Frederick VI. enriched it by the purchase
of the private Danish collections of Bodendick and West. Later
acquisitions of important works have been few and sporadic. The
works of the Italian School (Rooms IV and VI), though few in
number, include some of the gems of the collection, such as Cara-
vaggios Gamblers, the Meeting of SS. Joachim and Anna by Filip-
piiio Lippi, Mantegna's Pieta, and the portrait of Lorenzo Cibo by Par-
migianino. The only examples of the Early Netherlandish Masters
deserving special notice are a small picture by Petrus Cristas and a
Art Miis-um. COPENHAGEN. US. Route. 421
portrait by Mtml'iny. The German School is lici^t represented by
two worthy and genuine examples of Cranarh (_H. II ): the Judfrmcnt
of Paris, andVeniis andCnpid. Among the few works of the Flemish
School two by Riiberts arc by far the best: viz. the Judgment of
Solomon and the masterly portrait of Matthew Irselius {II. VI). The
characteristic feature of the gallery is its representation of Dutch
art. The genre-painters, indeed, are but scantily illustrated; but the
School of Rembrandt is more amply represented than in almost any
other gallery. The great master himself is seen ( Room VI) in his Jesus
at P^mmaus and two admirable portraits, while nearly all his scholars,
such as G. Dou, Go<\ Flinch. Bol, Victors, S. Kcninck, W. de Poorter,
li. Fahritius, and Aart de Gelder, are seen here at their best. Nearly
half of the Dutch works consist of landscapes. A few masters of the
first rank, such as Jacob van Ruysdael and A. van Everdingen, are
well represented; and among the landscape-painters of the second
class may be mentioned Jan Both, Buhbels, Hackaert, Sivanevelt,
As.^eiyn, C. Decker, Joris van der Uayen, and Verboom, few of whom
can be studied elsewhere to so great advantage as here.
Vestibule. By th^ lirst pill.ir^ in front are a few old paintings (e.g.
348. German School, Young man in a black dress), but the rest of the room
is devoted to modern works by Norwegian, Swedish, and Finnish artists :
797a. A'. Xordstriim, Landscape-, 806. A. Zorn. Coast-scene; £. Were7iskjold,
403. Weir, 408a. Portrait of Bjornson ; 803. .1. W'ahlberg , Oak-wood by
moonlight; 790. R. Bergh, Portrait: 7903. Br. Liliefors, Wild geese: 792.
A. Edeifeldt, Landscape in Finland; 767b. Eilif Pedersen, In the Norwegian
Skja-rgaard. — We nnw turn to the left into —
KooM I. To the left: 3 0. J<(n U'eenix; .Spoil- of the chase; 103. Allart
ran Everdingen. Jlountain-sccne (16lf^); 237. /. van Ostade, Winter-scene;
59. Hendrik ter Brugghen, Jlooking of Christ; 279a, 279b. Rembrandt, Por-
traits if two men; 276a. J. van Raveslei/n, Portrait; 102. Van Everdingen,
Rocky landscape; 228. Fr. de Mvttclieron, Italian landscape; 94. Jan
DUhbels, Sea-piece; il 6. B. Fabridus. Presentation in the Temple (1668);
320. A'. HM'baert, Savant; 31, 32. N. ISerchem, Horses; 365. Victors, Portrait;
299. J. van Rui/sdaeK Waterfall; 332. Jan Steen, Death and the Miser;
'374. iS. de Vlifger, Tlie Maas at l{..tt-rdam; 5. Jan Aasehjn, Italian land-
scape; '201. Jan van der Meer the Voiinger, Cattle in a forest, an unusually
good effort (1670); 275. Ravesteyn, Portrait of a woman (1626); "284. R. Rogli-
mnn, Lanilscape at sunset; 113. .1. de Gelder, Oriental jirlnce (1685); 34. G. A.
Bprfi'-Z/^cyde. View of Heidelberg; i\\. I)av. Teniers the Younger, Temptation
of St. Anthony; J. Wouvervian, 392. Chiiteau on a hill, °391. The Pont
Neuf in Paris during the Carnival (a masterpiece); 323. Fr. Snvders, Large
still-life pic'.;c; 254. J. ran UchtertnU , Lady playing (1663); 312. H. Sa.fC-
leven, View of Utrecht; 297, 296. Riihen.i, Francis I. of Tu'cany and John
of Austria, sketches for Hie series at the Luxembourg; 81. A. Cnyp, Land-
scape with horsemen; 269. I'aiil I'dter. Cows; 2.56a. .1. van Oslade, Hurdv-
gurdv plavcr in front nf a villaze-tavern.
RoomII. To the left: i6\). Jar. Jordaent, Susanna at the bath (1663) ;
Egb. van Heemskerrk, 132. Dance, 131. .ludgment, two unusually good and
large jiictures for this master. — Between these, '18'j. /. van Loo, Imitation-
coral factory, a masterpiece of this rare painter, who was moulded undor
the influence "f Itembrandt and became the founder of the artistic fatnily
of the Vanloos at Paris; it is interesting for its subject, brilliant in
colouring, and delicate in its chiaroscuro. — 337. //. ('. van der Vliet,
Old soldier and his family (1647); 376. ^. de VHoger . Sea-piece (1660);
369. /. Victor, Pigeons in front of a cottage. — 108. Q. Flinck, Mother and
son as Venus and Cupid. - 99. X Eliat, Portrait; 3.'2. P. C. van SUngelandt,
Girl and parrot; 92. G. Don. Physician.
422 Route 68. COPENHAGEN c. We.-<! em Boulevards:
Room III. Ko. 373. D. Vinck-Boo7U, Genre-piece; above, 58a. P. Brueghel,
Hearing of the Cross; 3. F. Aerlsen, Dufcli kitchen; 63. Petrns Crisiits,
.St. Anthony and the donor (other half of the picture added by a pupil of
Van Dyck)\ 72-80. Pictures by Lucas Cranach, the best Kos. 72 (Venus and
Cupid) and 73 (Judgment of Paris), of his early period (1521).
Room IV (Italians). No. 290. Salvalor Rosa^ Harbour; 115. Lvra Gior-
dano , .ludgment of Paris; 281. IHlera, St. Onuphrius; ''61. Caravaggio,
Gambling soldiers; 189. Bern. Luini, St. Catharine; 184. Filippino Lippi.,
Meeting of SS. Joachim and Anna after the angelic announcement of the
birth of the Virgin Mary after 20 years of sterility, a characteristic and
adod specimen of the master (1497); "289. iSctht. Jiosa, Cadmus and Jlinerva;
344. Tintoretto. Marriage at Cana of Galilee (-ketch).
Room V (mainly Italians). No. 193 and (opposite) 199. S. Man/redi,
Camp-scenes in the manner of ('arava;;gio; 282. Ribera, St. .lerome; 118.
I/ontliorst, Rich man and his son; 271. N. Poussin, Moses and the Burning
Bush; "17. Jar. Bas.<:ano, Execution of John the Baptist.
VI. Large Room (lighted fri m above). Left, 237. MemUng , Young
man with rnsary ; 233. Netherlandish School of the 16th cent. (Mabnse!),
Christian II.; "200. A. Mantegna, Pieta, v^ith a charming landscape-back-
ground, carefully handled but somewhat retouched (signed Andreas Matlinia) ;
-345. Dam. Theoiocdpnli (surnamed el Greco), Portrait; 28S. Salv. Rosa, Jonah
at Nineveh, ordered by Christian IV. for the church at Frederiksborg and
purchased, along with the two pictures in R. IV, for 8000 riksdaler; °203.
Franc. Mazziiola (Parmigianino) , Portrait of Lorenzo Cybo, grand in con-
ception and showing Venetian inlluence in the colouring (1.523); i92. Karel
van Mander (grandson of the well-known Dutch art-critic; d. at Copen-
hagen in 1670), Discovery of the body of Prince Svend of Denmark, slain
in the Crusades (after lasso's 'Gcrusalemme Liberata'); 136 and (farther
on) *135. B. van der Heist, Portraits; 130. Jan de Heem, Still-life; 82. Corn.
Becker, Cattle in a wood (1666); '■'298. /. van Ruysdael, Mountain-stream,
a. large and well-composed work; "47. Ferd. Bol, The Holy VVomen at the
Sepulchre, a large and excellent example of his earlier manner (1644);
'340. H. van Swanevelt, Summer-evening in Italy, a large landscape vying
with the finest works of Claude Lorrain or Poussin. Rembrandt, 278, "279.
Young man and his wife, the latter retouched (1656); '*277. Christ at
Emmaus, one of the masters most striking works, painted in the same
year (1648) as the picture at the Louvre, and even excelling the latter in
picturesque effect and breadth of treatment. '101. Everdingen, Fir-wood,
a masterpiece; 140. G. Hoeckgeest, Choir of the Nieuwe Kerk at Delft
(1655); 151. P. de Hooghe, Family Concert, injured by retouching; 386. Jan
Wimanis, Dutch landscape, with train of huntsmen by Ph. Wouver-man
(1660); 100. Everdingen, Waterfall, a large and line composition; 393.
A. Wuchters , Ulric C. Gyldenl/ifve, natural son of Christian IV.; "170.
.IK. Kalf, Still-life; '^120. Jan van Goyen , Town on a river (1645); *52.
G. Terbtirg, Portrait; "122. Jan Hackaert, Swiss scene, a large master-
piece; 215. D. Mytens, Full-length portrait of Charles I. of England; 167.
Jac. jordaens. Nymphs decking the horn of the river-god Achelons, over-
come by Hercules in the fight for Dejaneira (1642); "390. Ph. Wouver-
man. At the door of the inn; "295. Rubens, Matthew Irselius, Abbot of
St. Michael in Antwei-p, a finely coloured masterpiece of the painter's
early period (ca. 1610); "248. A. van der Neer, Conflagration on a winter-
night, the most important work of the kind by the master in this col-
lection; "294. Rubens, Judgment of Solomon, a large composition of the
masters middle period, well known through Bolswert\s engraving ; 324.
Snyders, Kitchen ; 384. Thom. Wyck, Dutch interior ; 168. Jordaens, Christ
blessing little children.
Room VII. Left, 170:i. )('. K<af, Still-life; 2'2. Bcerstraeten, Winter-
•scene (1664); 263. Pieter Potter, Backgammon; in the middle of the cnd-
wall, 375. Sim, de VUeger, Ships in the Zuyder-Zee; above, "147. Honde-
coeter. Poultry-yard; F. Bol, 49. Adm. Ruyter, 48. Portrait of a woman. —
On the other end-wall, "172. School of nembrandt, Dutch married pair in
a landscape ; 55. Jan Both, Italian landscape by morning-light.
Room VIII. Right, 305. D. Ryckacrt, Family feast; 124 and (farther
Art Museum. COPENHAGEN. 68. Route. 423
on) 125. Jorig van der Bagen^ Dutch landscape?, of fine decorative eftect,
liut sciiuewhat retouched; *3?5. J. van Somer, KuU- length portrait of
Charles I. of England, the architecture by Steenwyck ; belnw , 333. Jan
Sleeii, David's return after slaying Goliath (1671); 249. C. JVelscher, Coun-
cilKir C. van Beuningeu of Amsterdam (1675).
Room IX. Right, above, 276. A. van Ravesteyn, Portrait; °357. A. Ver-
hcom^ Fisherman by a brook, a large masterpiece little inferior to Ruys-
dael; 50, 51. G. Teriurg, Lady and Gentleman; 300. J. van Ruyidael, Sunset
in the wood; 193. Karel van Miinder, Tartar embassy in Copenhagen (1655);
149. a. Sonlhorst, Ladv; 315. 0. .'idialcken. Lady sealing a letter; -303.
,S'. van Huiisdad, Dutch river-scene (1652); 211, 210. F. vim Miefis the Ehhi\
Portraits; 93. (?. 7>o«, Girl at a window (1658); 60. 0. Camphuijsen, Dtil.h
interior; "205. M. J. van Mierevelt, Portrait of Hooft, the Dutch poet (lG3dj.
Room X (lighted from above). Left, 370. Jac. Viclor, Old building on
tlie edge of a forest, with p.oiltry; 97, 9S. Ific. Elias, Portraits (1621);
lower row, '150. P. de Hooghe, The ball, one of bis best work.*, but re-
touched ; 301. J. van Rttysdael, Forest; 236. A. van Ostade, Peasants (16d6). —
366. Jan Victors. David, on his death-bed, and Solomon (1642); 260. A. Pala-
vied*:s, Guard-room; 9 and (farther on) 8. Bakhwnen, Sea-pieces (Eveniuj;
anil Jforning); 67. Piet^r Codde , Arrest; 244. Aert van di-r Neer., Fire in
Amsterdam; 13. Bakhuyzeii, Battle between the Dutch and Anglo-French
lleets in 1673; 129. Jan de Heem, Fruit; 190, 191. A'. Maes, Portraits; 203.
A. Pi/nacker. Italian landscape; above, 302. J. <S'. van Ruysdael, Chateau of
Spyck. — 128. Dirck Hals, In a tavern: 83. C. Decker, River-scene; 321.
HUngelandl, Dutch family (166S); =328.' /7. M. Sorgh, Adoration of the
Shepherds, an admirable early work showing the influence of Rembrandt
(1642); 207. Mieris the Elder, Interior; '3oG. A. Vtrboom, The way to the
fold, the shepherds by Lingelbach.
A passage leads to three other rooms, the middle one of wliich
is to be devoted to recently acquired pictures. (In tlie spring of
19U3 several Italian wovlis of the close of the 15tli cent., together
\\ ith some good Netherlandish examples, were collected hero.)
The two other rooms contain part of the —
Collection' of Sculpture. — The most eminent Danish sculp-
tors, all more or less connected with Thorvaldsen'(p. 412), are //. V.
liissen (1798- 1868), represented here by a portrait of his wife
(No. oa) and a number of portrait-busts, //. Freitnd (1786-1840),
and J. ^1. Jerichau (1816-83; No. 4G, Panther Hunter). Most of the
other sculptors of the country belong to the school of Bissen. Among
thpiu may be mentioned C. f. I'Hers (b. 1822), A. V. Saabye (b.l823 ),
Olto Evrns(iS2(\-%), C. Freund (1821-1900), and V.Bisien (b. 1836).
A later generation is represented by L. Hasielriis (b. 1844), J. V.
SchiUtz (b. 1851; see No. 60a. portrait), V. P. Aarsleff (h. 1852).
Artl Hansen ( b. 18.')3), L. Brandstrup (b. 1861), C, J. Bonnesen
1 1). 1868), and others.
Tlie Collection ofModkun Paintings affords a comprehensive
survey of Danish painting since the end of the 18th century. The
earliest masters represented are A'. AbUdgaard (1743-1809). whofo
tendencies were towards classical forms, and Jens Jutl( 1745-1802),
the portiait-painter. Abildgaard's pupil C. V. Kckersbery (1783-
1853) is the bead of the earlier national school, the work of which,
though difective in technical skill, is distinguished by truth of
conception and purity of sentiment. Among his followers were
J. W. <Son?ie (1801-91), the painter of battlos ami popular pieces;
424 liouleGS. COPENHAGEN, c. Western Boulevards :
Jorgen JRoed (1808-88), the portrait and historical painter; V. Mar-
strand (1810-73), the genre-painter; //. Hansen (18'21-90), tlie
architectural painter; C. P. Skovyaard (1817-75), the landscapist;
J. T. Lvndbye (1818-48), the animal-painter ; C. Dalsgaard (h. 1824).
the painter of landscapes and popular pieces; J. F. Vermehren
(b. 182:]); J. J. Exnerlh. 1825); A. Melhye (1818-7;')); and C. F.
Serensen (1818-79), the last two marine painters. A freer and more
brilliant style of art was developed by Carl Block (1834-90), a
genre and historical painter trained in Rome. Of a somewhat later
date are Olto Bache (b. 1839; animals and figures), K. Zahrlmaiin
(b. 1843; historical pieces), and A. Helsted (b. 1847; genre). A
new school , combining technical perfection with realistic observ-
ation and depth of feeling, was inaugurated by Peter 8. Kreyer
(b. 1851), a pupil of the Copenhagen Academy who has received
most of his training in France. Among his chief contemporaries are
Vigyo Johunnsen (b. 1851 ; Danish domestic life) , Michael Ancher
(b. 1849; fishermen and pilots), Gotfried Christensen (b. 1849; land-
scapes), Julius Paulsen (b. 1860), W. Hammershei, and others.
Ante-Koom. No. G03. Kreyer, Fishermen of Skagen-, 453, 452. C/i7'isle.nsen,
Landscapes in Jutland; 437. C. Block, Jairus's daughter; Paulsen, 695. Adam
and Eve, 695h. St Cecilia.
Room I. No. 424. Bache, After the boar- hunt; Tit). W. Bosenstand,
and 515. L. Frelich, Holberji rehearsing his Cdmedits.
Room II. No. 764. M. Therkildstn, Stallions; Krener , 604. Duet, CtiG.
Threshing-floor in the Abruzzi; 553. Franz Henningsen, Burial; 510. Friis,
Spring-scene. — Zahrtmann, 788. Death of Queen Sophia Amelia; 787. Im-
prisonment of Eleonoia Christina, daughter of Chritiau IV. and wife ol
the traitor Count Korfiz XJlfeld (her reminiscences, 'Jammers Minde\ are
still much read in Denmark).
Room III. No. 768. C. Thvmsen , Dinner after the ecclesiastical visit-
ation; 420, 421. Ancher, Groujis of fishermen.
Room IV. No. 551. Erik Ilennigsen, Homeless family in winter; 44G.
Brendekilde, Country-road; 552. E Henninr/sen, Wounded workman.
Room V. No. 550. E. lienningsen. Guard-mounting ; 507. //. Foss, Autumn
morning; 422. Anfha\ Itescue; 607c. P. S. Kreytr, A portrait-group (study);
55i. F. Henningsen, At the pawnbroker's.
Room VI. No. 734a. Nils Skorgaard, Dunes; 7)9 b. V. Bo.ieastrand, Farm-
yard ; 509. Friis, Winter-scene; 5C0a. V. Groth, Pond; V. Johunnsen, 571.
Cow-stable, 574, 577b. Evening-entertainment; 767b. Therkildsen, Wood.
Room VII. 704. Philipscn, Landscape; 419. Ancher, Lifeboat; 459a.
Helsted, Christ among the Scribes; 701c. Petersen Mols, Dairy-maid; 557a.
/'. listed. At the pianoforte; 456a. G. Christendom, Avenue at Kragerup;
559b. V. Irminger, Young lady in a balcony. — Adjacent is a room (reached
by a few steps) with busts bv Bissen and others.
VIII. L-\UGE Room (lighted from the roof). Entrance-wall: 756. ./. TT.
Sonne, After the battle of Idsted; 769. Thomsen, Rahbeck', the author,
at the death-bed (jf his wife; 607. Kreyer, Herr von Rosen0rn-Lehn; 559.
Ivminger, After midnight; 436. Bloch, Samson grinding corn for the Philis-
tines; 650. Lundbye, Cattle in Zealand; 501. Exner, Peafants carousing;
492 et seq., Eckersbtrg, Sea-pieces ; 601. Kreyer, Sunday-morning in Granada ;
426. Bache, Horses on the beach, a huge canvas; 491. Eckevsherg, Danish
war-ship; b!i.&. Helsted, Father and son ; 430. fiends, Sculptor's studio; 62S.
C. Kebke, Summer-morning on the J0fsterbro; 5(..0. Exner, Peasants' festival ;
43'-). Bloch, Christian II. as a captive at Sonderburg; several pictures liy
Eckershevg; 645. Lundbye, Scene in Zealand; 602. Kreyer , Meldahl , the
architect; 666, 654, 655. Marstraml, Scenes from Holberg's comedies; liattle-
pieces hy ./. W. Sonne; 425. Bache, Cattle driven to j).asture.
H'Mcu'iory. CUl'ENUAGEN. m. Route. 425
KooMS IX-Xl. Works by Abildgaard, Jens Juel, Eckersberg, Exner,
Vamehren, Bansen. Dahgaard , Kebke , Rump, and others of the earlier
painters ; also by Block.
XII. Small Room Oighted from the roof), with the principal early
Danish works. Left, 724. G. Rump, Woodland scene at Frederikborg. —
657. Marttrand, Sunday-morning at Leksand, on Lake Siljan; 467. C. Dalgas.
Shepherd in the forest; 662. Marstrand, Paral)le of the Supper; 647. J. T.
I.undbye, Cow-house; 652. F. C. Lund, Battle of Fredericia ; 613. Kyhn.
Winter-evening in the forest ; Lundbye, 6i9. Eoman oxen, 646. The Isse-
fjord ; 472. Dalsgaard, The distraint. — Beyond an Anteroom, we may reach
either the entrance-room or the sculpture-collection.
The croundtloor contains the Collection of Casts. — The Royal Col-
lection of Engravings consists of upwards of 80,CKX) specimens. Its chief
treasure is the works of Albreclii Diirei', presented by the artist on his
journey in the Netherlands (1521) ti King Christian 11., then visiting his
brother-in-law Charles V. at Brussels.
To the S. of the Art Museum lie the Chemical LahoratoTy and the
Mineralogical Museum (Fl. I, 4). The latter (open on Frid., 12-2)
contains interesting fossil plants from the chalk and tertiary forma-
tions of N. Greenland. — To the W., in Selv-Gaden, is the new
huilding of the Polytechnic Academy (PI. 32; I, 4), founded in 1829,
with 24 teachers and 400-500 students.
To the W. of 0stervold- Gaden , between Selv-Gaden and
fiuthers-Gaden, extends the Botanical Garden (PI. H, I, 4; adm.,
see p. 408), laid out in 1871-74 on the site of the old ramparts
(entr. at the corner of Gothers-Gaden and 0stervold-Gaden). It
I ontains a large Palm House and a Botanical Laboratory. Situated
"II an eminence is the Observatorii. in front of which rises a bronze
.-tatue of Tycho Brahe (1546-160 L), by Bissen.
To the W. of the Botanical liarden is the large Communal Hospital
fPl. H, 4). This ad.joins the spacious basins of the Peblingese and Sortu-
tlnnifse (PI. G, H, 4, 5) , which are traversed by electric launches and lined
with handsome villas. The wide Drotining/^oithtsBro , between the two
basins, leads to the quarter of Nurrcbro, inhabited by artisans.
On the E. side of Ostervold-Gaden, opposite the Obser-
vatory, is the E. entrance (No. 46) to the Rosenborg Park (p. 426).
A little farther on to the S. is the outer gateway of the palace of
Rosenborg, bearing the date 1672 and the initials of Christian V. —
The royal palace of —
*Rosenborg (PI. 36 ; 1,4), an effective Renaissance edifice,
erected by Christian IV. in 1610-25, outside the then circumvalla-
tion of the city. It has pediments and several towers, all surmounted
by iron vanes, while the highest (.300 ft.) ends in three perforated
octagonal sections. The palace was the favourite residence of its
founder, and from his death till the middle of the 18th cent, was
often occupied by the Danish monarchs, who fitted up rooms ac-
cording to the taste of the day, and here deposited their jewels,
state-weapons, coronation-robes, uniforms, and other valuables.
More recently the collection was supplemented from other royal
palaces, and in 1863 it was opened to the public as the *C/iron-
ological Collection of the Danith Monarchs. The rooms in which it
426 Ronle6S. t'OPENHAtiEN. c. WeMem BoidevanU :
is exhibited have been restored in the styles of the periods illus-
trated and contain furniture to match. Adm., see p. 409 (no fee
to attendant). Illustrated catalogue 2 kr. , abridgment 60 e.
The collection is divided into three main sections : I. Rei{;n of Christ-
ian IV., and the preceding period (1448-1648); II. From 1648 to 1800;
III. Recent times. — The Renai.ssance penetrated to Denmark in the reign.''
of Frederick II. (1559-88) and Christian IV. (1588-1648), and its first simple
hut vigorous form is called in Denmark the 'Style of Christian IV\ The
finely panelled Audience Chamber (containing the 'Oldenburg horn of 1474,
the orders of Frederick II., etc.) and other rooms of this king are well
preserved. Here and in other rooms arc numerous specimens of the in-
signia of the Order of the Elephant, the highest Danish order, instituted in
1457 and renewed in 1693. — The *Marble Chamber, in Section II, dating
cbietly from the reign of Christian V. (1670-99), is a good example of the
rise of the rococo style. The apartments of Frederick IV. (1699-1730)
and Christian VI. (1730-46) contain numerous ivory carvings bv Magnvs
Berg (1666-1739). On the top floor is the -Banquelii g Room, or Knight's
Room, with a vaulted stucco ceiling (beginning of the 18th cent.), tapestry
made in Denmark (end of the 17th cent), sumptuous royal chairs, and
articles in silver. It is adjoined l)y the porcelain and glass cabinet. — To
Section III belong the memorials of Frederick VI. (1803-39), Christian VIII.
(1839-48), and Frederick VII. (1848-63), the kings of the present century.
Between the E. side of the palace and Kronprindsessc-Gafleti
extends the Bosenborg Park (Rosenborg - Haoe; PI. 1, K, 4, 6),
originally laid out in the French style, but afterwards reduced in
size and altered in English taste. It contains a cafe', a pavilion
for mineral waters, etc., and is a great resort of nurses and childreti.
Near the bridge (closed), to the E. of the palace, is a statue of
Queen Caroline Arnelia (1796-1881), by V. Bissen (1896). In the
N. part of the park is a Statue of Hans Christian Andersen, the
author ( d. 1876), by Saabye.
The S. continuation of the boulevanl is called NeRREVoLi/-
(taden (pi. H, .5, 6). Here, at the corner of Ahlefeldts-Gaden, is
the Tehiisk Skole, built by Fenger, for the instruction of artizans.
On the same ( VV.) side of the street opens the 0rsted Park (PI. G, H,
5, 6), also laid out on the site of the old fortifications. It con-
tains statues of H. C. 0rsted, the discoverer of electro-magnetism
(d. 1851), by Jerichau, and his brother, A. S. i^r.ited, the jurist
(d. 1860). a figure of the Maid of Orleans, by Ghapu, and twelve
bronze copies of famous antiques, all presented by Mr. C. Jacobsen
(p. 427). — Beyond the park, at the end of Nerrevold-Gaden,
rises Jermers Taarn, a fragment of an ancient tower, brought to
light in rasing the fortifications. Adjacent is a bronze group, by
Cain, of a lion and a lioness attacking a wild-boar. — To the W. lie
the Klampenborg, Halle, and Nordbane Stations (PI. G, 6; p. 405).
In front of the Dagmar Theatre (p. 408) is a Bronze Group, by
Pederseu Dan, illustrating a poem by H. P. Hoist: a Danish soldier
supporting a boy who sounds the attack on his trumpet.
The Raadhus-Plabs (PI. H, 7), the focus of the tramway-system,
is a busy centre, especially for the traffic between the inner town
and the important W. suburb of Frederiksberg. With the former it
Vcw (ihiyl'dhek. COPENHAGKN. H8. Haute. 427
is connected by Vestei-Gaden and Frederiksberg-Gadeii, while
tlie Vesterbro Passage runs towards the W. On the S. side of the
sqnare stands the new Town Hall (PI. H, 7), a handsome brick and
sandstone building in the Danish Renaissance style, erected in
1S9'2-1901 from the designs of M. Nyrop. It is freely adorned with
bronze figures in niches ; that of Bishop Ahsalon (p. 409), over tlic
main entrance, is by Bisstn. At the E. angle is a tower (ca. 330 ft.
high), with a copper roof. One of the two inner courts has a glass
roof, so as to adapt it for public meetings : the other contains a
tasteful fountain, designed by Skovgaard. It is anticipated that
the interior will be finished by 1904. A stroll through the corridors
will be found interesting (enquire at the main entrance).
The Vesterbro Passage (PI. H, G, 7), or first section of
Vesterbro-Gaden (p. 429), is one of the most animated streets in the
city. On its S. side are the main entrance of the Tivoll (p. 408)
and the *Dansk Folke- Museum, a collection formed by B. Olsen to
illustrate the history of civilisation (adm., p. 408). To the N. is
the Main Railway Station (p. 405). At the end of the Vesterbro
Passage rises the Friheds-Stette, or Column of Liberty (PI. G, 7 ),
an obelisk of saTidstone, LO ft. in height, erected by the peasantry
in 1798 in memory of the abolition of serfdom.
In the Vestre Boulevard (No. 22), opposite the W. side of the
Town Hall, stands the Museum of Industrial Art (PI. IT, 7), built
from the designs of Klein in 1893 and containing a collection of
ancient and modern works of the art-handicrafts (first floor; adm.,
see p. 408). The most notable feature is the collection of works
in carved wood from Sleswick-Holstein , Germany, and Franco
(i6-17th cent.), lent by the Duke and Duoliess of Cumberland
(Princess Thyra of Denmark). Specimens of Danish porcelain from
the 18th cent, to the present time (corap. pp. 409, 410) are aKso
.shown, and the collection of musical instruments is interesting. —
The Vestre Boulevard skirts the E. side of the Tivoli Garden
(p. 408). Opposite the entrance to the latter is a statue of. the,
painter Asmus Jacoh Car.itens (1754-98). who first felt inspired to
dt!vote himself to the study of classic art when visiting the antiques
of the Copenhagen Academy (1776). The statue was presented
to the town by Ur. 0. Jacobsen; on the pedestal are reliefs from
Carstens' drawings, the Argonauts and Night with her children.
Farther on, to the W., at the corner of Ny-Vester-Gad en, is the
New Glyptothek.
The *New or Ny-Carlsberg Glyptothek (PI. H, I, 7) was
built in 1892-97 from plans by Dahltrup and mainly at the ex-
pense of llr. Carl Jacohsen , a wealthy brewer and eutliusiastic
lover of art. The facade is adorned with 14 <olumns of polished
granite, between which bronze castings of famous sculptures are
to be placed. The interior, elaborately decorated with marble and
428 Route 68. COPEINHAOKN, c. ^Yn<lcrn Ihulev.inh.-
granite, cliiefly contains modern Danisli and French works. Nowliere
else out of France Is French sculpture so well and so amply repre-
sented. The collection is constantly being increased, so that the
arrangement is frequently altered. Catalogue 50 e. Adm., see p. 408.
In the vaulted Entbance Hall (I), which divides the building into
two halves, are .sixteen statues (by H. V. Bissen; 1793-1863), represenlin;;
Panish queens and heroines of the Greek and Northern mythologies.
Ground Floor to the left. — II. Bissen Room, with works by H. V.
Bissen; 5. Statue of 0rsted (p. 426); 23. Girl bathing; 9. Fisher-boy; *24.
Achilles; 10. Cupid; 25. Shepherd-boy; 69. Frieze of Ceres and Bacchus
civilising mankind. — III. .Ieeichad Room, with works by J. A. Jerichau
(1816-83): 352. Hercules and Hebe (plaster); 366. Creation of Eve (plaster) :
353. Penelope; 380. Marriage of Alexander and Roxana (frieze). —
IV. Caryatides Room. 422. TOorvaWifn, Two Caryatides ; 287. H. E.Freund
(1786-1840), Bust of the poet Ingemann; 596. E. n'o?/' (1802-79) , Bust of
Thorvaldsen. — V. Laege Room. 336. Ranch (1777-1S57), Victory ; 432. Lord
Frederick Leighton (1830-96), Athlete; 580. Hasselberg , Snow-drop; 579.
J. Biirjeson (b. 1836), Swimmer; /S. Sinding {\<. 1846), "'570. Barbarian woman
with her dead son, -571. Captive Mother, *o72. Man and Wife (bronze in
Christiania, p. 14); 565. Canova (1757-1822), Bust of Paris; 429. E. H. Bailey
(1788-1867), Eve; 390. Jerichau, Combat of Hector and Ajax (frieze). —
VI. Chkist Boom. 355. /. A. Jerichau, Christ; 566. Tenerani (after Thor-
valdsen), Genii of Life and Death : 383-386. Jerichau. Medallion-reliefs of
the Evangelists (plaster); 275. G. Chr. Freund (1821-1900), Tobias and the
angel. — An Anteroom (XII), accessible from the vestibule (to the left,
at the back), contains original models of works by Bissen and Jerichau,
and some good busts by //. E. Freund. — Opposite, in the other Ante-
room (XIII) : Const. Meunier, Glass-worker (plaster-relief). Miner (bronze).
Docker (bronze statuette), V^^orkwoman ; A. Rodin, Busts (556. Falguierc
the sculptor, 554. Victor Hugo, 555. Puvis de Chavannes the painter).
Ground Floor to the Kight. — VII. FALCDifeRE Room . with frescoes
after Carstens' Voyage to Hades. No. 500. /. Falguiere (1831-1900), Eve; 538.
L. H. Marq^ieste (b. 1848), Eve; 468. Eug. Delaplanche (1836-91), Music;
Paul Dubois, 489. Connetable Anne de Montmorency, 490. Joan of Arc, two
equestrian statues (plaster). — VIII. Dubois Room. Paul Dubois (1829-83),
*483, 484. Eve, 486. Faith, 485. Charity, 480. Narcissus, 479. John the
Baptist. — IX. Barkias Room. C. Barrias (b. 1841), 440. Oath of Spartacus
(1871), 437. Adam and Kve with the dead Abel (1878), 436. Mozart; *453.
//. M. A. Chapu (1831-91), Maid of Orleans. — X. Empress Room. 511.
J. Gautherin, Empress Maria of Russia, nee Princess Daj^mar of Denmark ;
455. H. Chapu, Queen Alexandra of England; A. Rodin, 551. The Iron
Age, John the Baptist. — XI. Gautherin Room. J. Gautherin (18i7-90),
510. Paradise Lost (marble group), 509. Work; A. Mercii (b. 1845), 539.
'(Juand Meme!' (Defence of Belfort), Comic Opera.
First Floor. — XV. Renaissance Room, in three sections. First section
(modern coloured sculpture): 574. S. binding. The venerable mother of
the race (wooden figure of an old woman); 475. E. Delaplanche (1836-91),
Innocence ; 1. C. V. 0. P. Aarsleff{\>. 1852), Girl and Amoretti; 513. J. Gautlterin,
Inspiration ; Ranch , Queen Louisa of Prussia. Central section : 533. R. F.
LarcM (b. 1860), Christ at the age of twelve; 550. Rodin, The Thinker,
and other bronzes. Last section: 610. Bronze bust of Pope Paul V., by
an unknown master; 602. School of the Delia Robbia, Virgin kneeling before
the Holy Child (terracotta); 637. Al. Cano (Spaniard; 1601-67), Wooden
.■statuette of a monk. Beyond is Room XVI, with sketches by Bissen. —
We return to the entrjnce and descend a few steps to reach —
XVII. Hansen Room, containing original models by H. V. Bissen and
Jerichau. — XVIII. Corridoe. Small sculptures, including fine reliefs by
Bissen, Freund, .ind SchwanthaUr, and sketches by Chapu, Delaplanche,
Gautherin, Sinding, Stein, and others. — XIX. Carstens IIoom, with draw-
ings bv the sculptors Bissen, Freund. Jerichau, and others. — We pass
through the door on the left and a little farther on ascend the steps to the
d. Western Quarters. COPENHAGEN. 6.9. Ro\ite. 429
— XX, PicTCRE Room. 815. Lnndbpe, Zealand landscape; 822. V. Mar-
strand, Lucky shipwreck; 781,784, Eckersberg., Sea-pieces; ^bi. Zahrtmann.,
Kleonora Christina leaving Ler prison after 20 years' captivity (comp.
p. 424) ; Kreyei\ 8U6. Hr. C. Jacobscn and bis friends in the Old Glyptothck
fp. 430j, 807. Committee of the French E.xhibition at Copenhagen (1868) ;
T76. Bache, King Christian IX.; '870. J. F. Millet (1814-75), Death and the
Woodman (1860) ; 855. /. Baslien-Lepage, The beggar. A few old paintings
are also hung in this room : "896. Rembrandt, 'The Student' (ca. 1650) ;
895. Copy of Frans Hals, Descartes, the philosopher; 817. Sal. RuysdaeU
River-scene ; 900. L. Cranach, Portrait.
Opposite the New Glyptothek is the building of the Royal
Scientific Society, designed by Petersen ; the meeting-room contains
a large painting by P. S. Kreyer.
The new building for the Old Glyptothek (p. 427), designed by
h'ampmnnn, was begun in 1901 behind the New Glyptothek; it is
expected to be finished in 1908.
At the end of the Vestre Boulevard, close to the new Lange
Bro (PI. I, 8), is an Equestrian Statue of a Youth, by V. Bissen.
The tramway from the Haibro-Plads to the Vestre Kirkegaard
(No. 4 a, p. 407j runs hence to a point near the Old Glyptothek
(p. 4301.
d. The Western Quarters.
Elkotric Tramways. From the Kongens Nytorv via the Raadhns-
Plads and Vesterbro-Gaden to Frederiksberg, see No. 1, p. 406. — From
the Raadhus-Plads by Vesterbro-Gaden to Frederiksberg and Sondermarkeu
(Ny-Carlslierg, Old Glyptothek) and Valby, see No. 2, p. 406. — From the
Kongens Nytorv, passing the New Glyptothek, traversing Isted-Gaden,
and continuing beyond the Ny-Carlsbergvei (near the Uld Glyptothek),
(. see No. 6, p. 407.
Beyond the Liberty Column the Vesterbro Passage is prolonged
by Vesterbeo-Gaden (PI. G, F, E, 7, 8), which traverses the W.
quarter from end to end. In Steno-Gaden, a cross-street, to the
right, is the Koman Catholic Jesu-Hjerte-Kirkc , consecrated in
1S95. Farther on in Vesterbro-Gaden, beyond the small Vesterbro-
Torv, is the Kongelige Skydebane, the seat of a long-established
shooting-club (restaurant, see p. 406).
The Fkkderikshkrg-Ali.k (PI. E, D, C, 7), diverging to the
right from Vesterbro-Gaden, contains several pleasure - gardens
(p. 408) and ends at the rondel outside the Frederiksberg Park,
whence Allti-Gaden runs to the N. and the Pile-All^ to the S. [In
AUe'-Gaden, at the corner of tlie Gamle Kongevei, is a statue of the
poet Ad. flehlenschldger in his youth, by Schultz (1897).]
The park of Frederiksberg -Have (PI. A-C, 7) contains many
shady promenades. By the main entrance rises a Statue of Fred-
erick VI. (d. 1839), by Bissen. Tlie Frederiksberg Palace (PI. B, 8),
erected in the Italian style under Frederick IV. (d. 1730), now a
military school, lies conspicuously on a hill to the left. The chief
attraction is the fine view from the shady terrace in front of the
palace. — Farther to the W., beyond a Confectioner'' s, lies the Zool-
i^O Route 68. COPENHAGEN, d. Western Quarters. ■
ogical.'Garden (V\. A, B, 7, 8; adm., see p. 40.9; the W. exit is in
the Scndre Fasanvei, wlience a tramway runs to the Kaadhus-Plads).
To the S. of the Roskilde road is the heautiful shady park of
Sendermarken (PI. A, B, 8). Opposite its S.E. exit, towards the
Old Glyptothek, is a bronze statue of the Danish statesman Kurl
Christ. Hall (d. 1888), by Eissen.
The Pile-At.le, vvhi(th skirts the E. side of the Sendermarken
Park, terminates to the S. at the W. end of the Ny-Cari.sbeeg-Vei
(tramway No. 12, p. 406), where a monumental gateway gives ad-
mission to the grounds of the large Ny- CurUhery Brewery (Hr.
Jacobsen's). Within these grounds, to the left, is the building of
the Old Glyptothek.
The **01d Glyptothek {del Gamle Glyptotek; Pi. C, 9) contains
the superb collection of ancient sculpture made since 1887 by Hr.
Carl Jacolisen (p. 427) and already one of the best of the kind to
the N. of the Alps. The collection of Roman portrait-statues and
busts is, indeed, the finest and most extensive in the world. The
number of original Greek works is also comparatively large, while
the Egyptian and Etruscan departments are likewise important. In
1899 the collection was presented to the nation on the condition
that an adequate new building should be erected for its reception.
The constant accession of new acquisitions occasions frequent
changes in the arrangement. It has, therefore, been deemed ex-
pedient to give below merely a general characterization of the con-
tents of the different rooms, followed by a list of the most important
objects, denoted by the numbers assigned to them in the last edition
of the catalogue (1898; 75 0.). Adm., see p. 408.
Rooms II-VII, which are adorned with friezes by Bissen, Sin-
ding, and others, contain the works of Greek Art. These include
marble statues and heads (some of them dating from before tlie
5th cent. B.C.) and also a few bronzes.
Room Vlll, with a frieze by Jerichau and a cast of the frieze
of Halicarnassus, contains the Roman Portrait Statues and Snr-
rophagi.
Cabinets IX-XII contain the Smaller Greek Sculptures, im-hid-
ing tombstones, terracottas, sepulchral and votive reliefs.
I» Cab. XIII is the largest extant collection of Sculptures from
Palmyra (catalogue by D. Simonsen).
Rooms XIV-XV contain the Egyptian Antiquities.
Rooms XVI -XVII are devoted to the Roman Portrait Busts,
most of which are excellent examples. — Room XVIII contains
Greek Portrait Busts.
In Room XIX is the so-called 'Helbig Museum', a collection of
Etruscan and Early-Italic Antiquities, made by Prof. Wolfgang
Helbig, the eminent archsologist at Rome. This is very important
in Its way, but appeals mainly to the specialist. The walls of this
Old Glyptolhek.
COPENHAGEN.
68. Route. 431
and the adjoining room are decorated with imitations of the mural
paintings in Etruscan tombs.
'2. Sphinx, from Attica (6th or 5tb cent. B.C.); *3, 4. Two lions, from
Ciirinth (6th or 5th cent); 6. Painted sarcophagus, from Clazomense (5tb
or 6th cent.); '9. Head of athlete (Athens; beginning of 5th cent.); '12.
Head of a youth, Cyprus (5th cent.); '18. Cover of a sarcophagus from
Phoenicia, a Greek work in the Egyptian manner (6th cent.); 19. Stele,
from Laconia (beginning of 5th cent.); 20, 21. Dionysus, Hermes (5tb cent.);
'Si. Henna of a youth, an archaic original; '24. Female draped statue, an
original of the 5lli cent.; '211. Kion/.e statue of a youth (beginning of the
.'(Ihcent.); 27. Bronze heiid (6th or 5th cent.); '23. Relief of Orestes slaying
itCgisthus (beginning nf 5tb cent.); "41. Hercules (bronze; 4lh cent.); 42-
Hecumbent youth (5th cent.); "43. Oirl dancing, original of the 4th cent. ;
11. Statue of a kneeling youth, 4th cent, original; 45. Statuette of Arle-
uiis, 4th cent, original ; 47. Statue of Apollo, by one Apollonios, a replica
I.I a work of the 5th cent. ; 48. Oiant, in the Pergamenian style.
49-51. Heads of gods, from Athens, time of Phidias (51." Zeus); '53.
Head of a youth, original in the .'^tyle of Praxiteles; '54. Head of Eros,
Attic original of the end of the 5th cent.; =.55. Head of Kora (?), original
of the time (if Praxiteles; 57, .58. Heads of athletes (Athens; 4tb cent.);
69. Head of Helios (?), Helleni.«tic original; '61. Head of Hermes fastening
his sandals, in the style of Lysippus (bust belonging to some other head);
62. Upper part of a portrait-statue from Athens, early Imperial period;
65. Tomb-relief of a bearded man (5th cent.); 66. Fragment of a votive
relief (5th cent.); '67. Attic votive relief (5th cent.); 6S. Attic tomb-relief
(lady and servant; 4th cent); "72. Palmetto from the top of a stele (Cyprus;
5th cent); '76. Warrior, from an Attic tomb-relief (4th cent.); 91. Tomb
432
Route 68. COPENHAGEN, d. Western Quarters ;
relief of ■& shipwrecked mariner (Athens); *92. Votive relief to Artemis
Bendis and ^sculapius, fmni the l^irteus (B.C. 329); 93. Votive relief to
Artemis Kupraxia, from Tvndaris; 94. Welpoiiiene, fragment of an Attic
relief (4th cent.); 95. So-ciilled Banquet ot the Gods (Athens); ''lUO. Bull,
from an Attic tomb (4th cent ).
101. Serpent, votive relief; 102, 103. Lions, Greek works of the 4th
cent. ; 108. Head of a woman, from Egypt, Hellenistic original ; 112-116.
Satyr with the young Dionysos, Zeus, Hercules (?), Poseidon, and Helios (?),
a group of statues from the school of Aphrodisias in Caria (2nd cent. A.D.);
121, 125. Heads of Aphrodite (4th cent.); '128. Bronze statuette of an Ama-
zon, from Egypt (4th cent.); -129. Amazon, perhaps after Polycletus (5th
cent.); *131. Statue of Anacreon (5th cent.); *132. Seated poet (4th cent.);
•T135. Tiger, Hellenistic bronze from Egypt; "136. Statue of Apollo (5th
cent.); 138. Herma of Apollo (5th cent.); l43. Statue of Apollo (4th cent.);
"150. Female torso, part of the same group as No. 315, original of the
4th century.
*153. Head of Artemis, 4tU cent, original ; 156. >Esculapius and Hvgieia
(4th cent.); 157. Head of /Esculapius (5th cent.); *163. Head of Athena,
time of Phidias ; "171. Head of a bearded athlete (?), 4th cent.; 173. Statue
of Attys; 1S4. Statue of Demeter (?; 4th cent.); 191. Head of Dionysos; 195.
Statue of Dionysos (4th cent.); 197. Diony.sos and Pan (4th or 3rd cent.);
20U. Statue of one of the Dioscuri (4th cent.).
201. Head of a youth, in the style of Polycletus ; 206. Genius of Death,
Boman tomb-figure; '216. Hippopotamus, in rosso antico; 220. Statue of
Paris (4th cent.); 223. Head of a woman (5th cent.); *224 Statue of Hera
(5th cent.); 225. Hercules (4th cent.); 231. Hercules (end of 5th cent.); 234.
Hercules as Omphale, Hellenistic; 235. Same subject (Greek); 238. Relief
with the Labours of Hercules (Greek); 239. Statue of a youth in a sitting
posture (head new); 240. Statue of Hermes (ith cent.); 245. Statue of
Dionysos, Hellenistic.
253. Head of a woman (5th cent.); *257. Fleeing girl (5th cent.); *262.
Female head (4th cent.) ; "264. Head of a girl, Hellenistic original ; ''267.
Torso of a seated girl, 4th cent, original; 274. Cybele; '278. Head of a
youth (5th cent.); *290. Torso of a y<iuth, 4th cent, original.
305. Jleleager, head modern (4th cent.); 308-311. Statues of the Muses,
after Praxiteles ; '312. Mosaic of Europa on the bull ; 318-320, 322-327, 329,
333, 338-340, 350. Unknown Greeks; '331. Menander(?J ; 335, 336. Epicurus ;
337. Zeno the Stoic; '341. Demosthenes; -342. Alexander the Great; '344.
Colossal head of a youth, from Tarsus, Hellenistic; *346. Bust of one of
the Diadochi (successors of Alexander the Great); 347. Pyrrhus(?); 348.
Greek of the Hellenistic period; '349. Pergamenian (?) King, Hellenistic
original.
351. Greek of the 2nd cent, of our era (Athens); 353. Greek of the 3rd
or 4th cent. (Athens); '362. Head of a Triton or a Wind God, Hellenistic ;
365. Satyr, from a group in the Pergamenian style; '367. Silenus with the
child Dionysos, 4th cent, original; 374. Triton, Hellenistic; 376. Marble
vessel; 381. Fragment of a marble vase, in the Neo-Attic style; 386. Upper
part of a statue of Zeus ; '393. Caius Fundilius Doctus, 'ApoUinis parasitus'
(1st cent. A.D.); 395. Emp. Tiberius; 398. Lady of the Flavian period
us Venus.
402. Roman lady as Hygieia (2nd cent.); 403. Crouching barbarian, as
a support; 406. Roman of the end of the 2nd cent, as .lEsculapius ; 408.
Sepulchral statue of a mother-in-law; 411, 413. Romans of the early Re
public; 412. Tomb-relief of Septumius, of the same period as No. 411; -420.
*421, 422, '423, 425, 431. 437, 446, '447, '448, '451. Romans of the close of the
Republic; 434. Roman of the Republic (or late Greek?), from Cyzikos;
-445. Pompey.
'455. So-called Agrippa; '457. Augustus, from Sardes; '460. Livia(?),
wife of Augustus; 467. Tiberius; °469. Agrippina the Elder, wife of Ger-
manicus; 472. Drusus the Younger, son of Tiberius; '476. Caligula; '478-
4S0. Hermse of Romans, from Nemi (1st cent); '481. Koman of the 1st
cent.; '492. Roman lady of the l.st cent.; 496. Roman lady of the time
of Thus.
Old htiiptothek. COPENHAGEN. 6,S. Route. 433
503. Trajan; 507. llojid of a barbarian; 503. Hadrian; '5(39. Greek of
tlie i'l(»,se of the 3nd cent., from Athens; 518. Antoninus Pius ; 519. Faustina
the Elder; 5il, *531. Romans of the second half of the 2nd cent.; 524.
Marcus Aurelius; 530. Head of a boy (2nd half of 2nd cent.); 533. Lucilhi
(d. 183); "539. Manila Scantilla (closeof 2nd cent.); 543. Septiniius Severus;
546. .lulia Domna (?), wife <if Septiniius Severn.'^, with a removable wig.
'557. Lady of the Gordiwn period (ca. 230-240)-, '£63-567. Portraits of
the same period; 568. Pupienus (238 A.D.); 569, 570, 572, 573, 575, 576.
'577, 578. Romans of the 3rd cent.; '579-589 Koman,s of the close of the
3rd or of the 4th cent., a feries of rare and (for the period) excellent
portraits.
"592. Sarcophagus with Bacchic .scenes ; "586. Sarcophagus with Apollo
and Marsyas, from Pha-nicia; "G08. Altar with Bacchic figures, neo-Attic
style; b25-'630. Slabs from the Tomb of the Sempronii; 761, 764. Early-
Christian .narcophagi; 763. Early-Christian pulpit; 707. Achilles with tlic
body of Hector (V), Hellenistic; 768. Head of a Civic Goddess, from Smyrna,
Hellenistic.
Egyptian Collection. — Period of the Early Empire: 1. Upper part of
a kings statue; 2. Fine head in red stone, with inset eyes of rock-crystal;
4. Wooden statuette of a girl with a calf (colour admirably preserved);
0. Relief of an Egyptian man, the red flesh-colouring in excellent preser-
vation; 12, 13. Reliefs from the walls of a tomb, illustrating life under the
earliest dynast'es (slaughter of oxen, sca-ibes making inventories of pro-
perty, etc). — Period of the Middle Monarchy: 36. Admirable basalt head
of a king or god; 37. Kneeling statue in hard black stone, with the name
A'e6 or £t6u (almost perfect); Wooden statuette from a tomli near Assiut. —
Period of the New Empire: 51. Basalt statue of Anubis (4'/.! tt. high); 51.
Head of Amnion; 55a. Interesting bron/.e statue of the god Sot, afterwards
(ca. 600 B.C.) converted into one of the ram-headed god Khuum; statues
and statuettes, tomb-reliefs, steles from tomb'!, altar, painted mummy case,
etc-. — Late Period (26th Dynasty): Fine collection of bronze statuettes of
giiil^, goddesses, sacred animah, etc., including a unique bronze statuette
i.t Anubis with a jackal's head (l^/s ft. high); Double statue of a priest
and his mother; Alabaster statue of Naophoreh; Kneeling Egyptian in green
basalt; sphinx; painted mummy-cases, sarcophagus-lids of wood and lime-
stone, with numerous figures and hieroglyphics. — Qraeco- Roman Period:
Several purely Egyptian statuettes and reliefs, besides those of Greeco-
Egyptian workmanship, such as the colossal head of one of the Ptolemies ;
extensive collection of Egypto-Roman terracotta statuettes of gods, from
• he Fayum ; live portraits painted on wood, from the Fayiim (Graf Col-
lection); plaster masks; lid of an Egyptian coffin of the Rnnian period. —
Hadrian s Period is represented liy two sphinxes (from the Villa Borghese),
the Early-Christian Period by several steles from tombs.
A visit may also be paid to the Romanesque Jesus -Eirke
( Pl.B, 9), built ou Dahlcrup's plans at the cost of Hr. Carl Jacobseii.
The sacristan (Valby Lang-Gaden 12) is at the church daily, 12-4.
The interior, richly adorned with stucco, is supported by 82 granite
pillars. The font, with figures of Faith and Hope, is by Jerichau;
the tomb of the Jacobsen family has marble frroups by Tenerani
after Tkorvaldsen; the altar -frieze is by Sinding. Stained glass
from Munich.
69. From Copenhagen to Helsing^r and Helsingborg.
a. Coast Kailway.
Express (Berlin Copenhagen-Chrisliania) to (14 Kil.)^e;«n^0r iu5amin.,
ordinary trains in 1V2-2 hrs. (fares 2 kr. 80, 1 kr. 75, 1 kr. 5 0.). — The
express starts from the Nordbanegaard (Vl. 6,6), the other trains from the
Baeuekek's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. '28
434: Route (ii). KLAMPENBOUG. Fram ('opcnha,j€n
/(fsthanegaard (PI. L, 2, 3). The local trains to Klampenborg, whicli \\\
summer run hourly on week-days, and half-hourly or oftener on Sundays
and holidays (in 25 min. -, fares 60, 40, 25 er.), start at the Klampenhorg
Illation (PI. G, G), while those to Holte (p. 435) start at the Nordbane-Qaard
(special booking-of(ice).
The Steamer Voyage along the Zealand coast is very picturesque.
Steamers (restaurant on board; B. I1/2 kr.) ply four times daily to Hel-
iinger (in 2'/i hrs.; fares I'/ii 1 kr.) and Heltingborg (in 3 hrs. ; fares
2, I'/zkr.) also once daily to Heltingborg d'rect (in 2 hrs. ; fares I72, 1 kr.).
The boats start from the corner of Havne-Gaden and the Kyhavn at
Copenhagen (PI. L, 6). Cheap trips ('Lystturer'') on Sundays, there and
back ('Tur og Retur'). Stations: 25 min. Skovshoved , 10 min. Bellevue-
Klam/ienborg, 5 min. Taarbxk, 20 min. Skodsborg, 10 min. Vedbcek, 15 min.
liiingsted, lb mill. Humlebcek, 20 min. Snekkersten, 20 min. Hehinger, 80 min.
Helsingborg .
The railway from the Noidbanegaard, also followod by the local
trains for Klampenborg, skirts theN.W. side of Copenhagen, touches
the suburban station oi Nerrehro, and near(5 Kil.) HeZienip unites
with the line from the 0stbanegaard. In a simple enclosure close
to the sea near Hellerup are the graves of the British who fell at
the Battle of the Baltic ( 1802}. To the right and left are many
small villas. — 8 Kil. Charlottenlund. To the right are the royal
chateau and park, occupied by the Crown Prince in summer. On
the shore of the Sound, 1 Kil. from the rail, station, are the popular
Restaurant Constantia and the Cliarlottenlund Baths.
10 Kil. Klampenborg {Strand Hotel; Bellevue; Klampenborg
Bathing Establishment, pens, for a week or more from 6 kr. per day),
a popular summer-resort and sea-bathing place on the S.E. margin
of the Dyrehave (usually called Skoven, or 'the forest'), or Deer Park,
a beautiful forest of beeches, well stocked with stags and deer.
The following walk (ca. 2'/2 hrs.) gives a good idea of the attractions
of the locality. We cross the railway- viaduct and enter the wood by the
'K0de Port'. The Dyrehaves Bakke ('deer-park hill'), on the S. side of the
park, with a spring called the KirstenPils-Kilde, is very popular for large
festive gatherings in June and July. The forester's house of Fortunen, in
the S.W. corner of the Dyrehave, with a garden-restaurant, Q^|^ M. from
the Klampenborg station, commands a line view. — From Fortunen we
proceed to the N.E. to (2'/4 M.) the Eremitage (restaurant), a shooting-
lodge built by Christian VI. in 1736, in an open situation in the wood.
A path leads hence by Raadvad (restaurant) through the wood to (l-l*/* hr.)
Skodsborg (see below).
The railway follows the coast, skirting the Dyrehave and passing
many villas hired in summer for sea-bathing. Stations : Torbcek
and Springforbi.
F'J 16 Kil. Skodsborg (*S0bad- Hotel, prettily situated 1/4 M. to
the N. of the station, with view-terrace, R. 2-12, B. 1, de'j. 11/2-3,
D. 21/4-4 kr. ; 0T€smid, at the station) is another favourite bathing-
place. Beautiful woodland walks may be taken to the little lake
of Bellemose (8/4 M.) and other points.
19 Kil. Vedbak (Hot. Vedbak), on the Trmed Skov. To the S.
lies Enrum, the seat of Count Danneskjold-Samser, with a fine park
(open to the public). — Farther on we pass the small chateau of
Smidstnipgaardy belonging to the King of Greece. Over the Sound
g&lsm^or.
«0^ ijli Anstait \ on W^^nei 6c Bel es T eip/
to Helsimjer. HI1.LER0L). 69. Route. 435
we see the Swedish island of Hven, famous for its association with
Tycho Brahe; the church of St. Ibbs (James) is recognisable. —
23 Kil. liungsted (Hotel Rungsted, very fair), with a monument to
the poet Johannes Ewald (p. 411); 30 Kil. Nivaa; 34 Kil. Humle-
fntk; 42 Kil. Snekkersten.
44 Kil. Helsinger, see p. 438; the station adjoins the harbour.
From Helsinger to Helsinghorg , see p. 438.
h. Zealand Northern Railway.
R.ui,wat to {y6K\\.) HeUinger in 13/4-2 hrs. (fares, p. 433); to (34 Kil.)
HilUred in 1 hr. (fares 2 kr. 2U, 1 kr. 40, 80 0.). — The trains start from
the Nordbanegaavd (PI. G, 6). — The excursion (see below) to Farum via
1-yngliy requires 6-8 hrs. (there and back) from Copenhagen (fare 2 kr.
400). Those who wish to 'do' Frederiksborg (2-3 hrs.) on the way should
take the first train (eomp. p. 18).
From Copenhagen to (5 Kil.) Hellerup, where the coast-line
diverges to the right, see p. 434. — 8 Kil. (Jjentofte, the station for
the royal chateau of Bemstorff (to the right).
11 Kil. Lyngby (Ruatenborg; Lyngby), prettily situated on the
Lynghy-Se. To the right is the royal villa of Sorgenfri, the summer
residence of Prince Christian, eldest son of the Grown Prince ; to
the left is Count Schulin's villa of Frederiksdal.
From Lyngby a pleasant excursion may be made by small steamer tn
I'rederiksdal, and thence by "Amfibiebaad' across the Furesd to Fiskebcet
and Fariim (there and back from Copenhagen in 6-8 hrs.; through-ftire
2 kr. 40 0.).
16 Kil. Holte, with charming environs. The chateau of Dron-
ninggard on Lake Fure is now a hotel-pension. — 21 Kil. Birkered ;
27 Kil. Lillered.
34 Kil. Hiller.erd. — Hotels. Hotel Leideksdokff , opposite the
castle, »/< ''• from the station (omn. 25 0.); Hotkl Kkonpkindsen ; Hotel
KJ0BENHAVN, in the market-place, '/sM. from the station. — SloUpavillon
Hestaiirant, see p. 437, very fair.
Caxriages to Fredeiisborg (p. 437): with one horse 4, with two horses
6 kr., and fee.
Branch Railwats to Frtderiksva'rk and t<i Krayerup through the beau-
tiful forest of Oribtkov (staf. Gribse), with branches to Oilleleie (p. 439)
and Ilehinge.
HiUered, with 4500 inhab., the capital of the district of Fred-
eriksborg, lies at the S. end of the small Lake of Frederiksborg,
from which rises the chateau of Frederiksborg, the most imposing
monument of the Danish Renaissance. — From the rail, station we
reach the market-place in 10 inin. by following the street either
to the right or left. Here is a Statue of Frederick VIL by Bisseu, with
an inscription relating to the promulgation of the present constitn-
tion by agreement between the king and the Constituent Assembly
(June 5th, I84'J). The entrance to the palace is about 1/4 M. farther on.
*Slot Frederiksborg was erected in 1602-20 by Christian IV.
on the site of an older building of Frederick II., of which two
towers still remain, and affords an excellent illustration of a
28*
•436 Route 69. FREDERIKSBOKG. From Copenhagen
princely residence of the period. Tliree islands near tlie W. bank
of the lake are covered by the buildings. The first bridge leads to
the stables and offices. The second bridge leads to the massive
tower-gateway of the outer court, which is enclosed by the business
rooms and dwellings of the royal suite. In the centre is a reproduc-
tion (1888) of the Neptune Fountain executed for Christian IV. by
Adrian de Vries in 1623 and carried off by the Swedes in 1669. In
front we see the palace proper, which occupies the third island.
Three four-storied wings, with towers and gables, and a lower
entrance-wing surround the great court. As in the contemporary
buildings of N. Germany, the Renaissance character of the archi-
tecture is expressed mainly in the decorative details, which are
executed in sandstone. The most striking feature is the portal and
loggia of the central structure; the fountain was added in 1621 by
L. P. Sweis, a Dutchman. The W. wing contains the Palace Chapel,
above which is a large Knights' Hall. Frederick VII. usually resided
at Frederiksborg until 1859, when a large part of the building was
destroyed by Arc. The rebuilding was superintended by F. Meldahl^
Director of the Academy of Arts. At the suggestion of Hr. J. C.
Jacobsen^d. 1887; p. 427), who contributed 600,000 kr. towards
the expense of restoration, the interior has been fitted up as a
National Historical Museum, the original works of art and reproduc-
tions in which atford a survey of Danish history and civilisation
from the introduction of Christianity to the present day. The rooms,
few of which escaped injury from the fire, are fitted up in the styles
of the periods illustrated, after Danish and other models. Entrance
in the loggia of the central structure. Adm. daily in summer, 9.30-4
and 6-7, in winter 9.30-4 only ; fee 25 0. Catalogue 25 e. About
l'/2-2 hrs. is required for visiting the palace.
Ground Floor. — In the Vestibulk are casts of two Runic stones »(
the 10th century. — Rooms 6-ii. Photograph of the Bwjeux Tapestry, re-
presenting the conquest of Enf^land by William of Normandy (see Baedeker'' s
Northern France). The next rooms are decorated in the Gothic style.
First Floor (middle building). Furniture of the 16 17th cent., includius;
many coffers and chests with armorial bearings; fine modern furniture. —
Tower Room 23 and the Council Corbidob (24) still retain part of the
mural decoration of the time of Christian V. — R. 29: Kin^ Albert of
Sweden after the defeat of Falkoping, a painting by G. Uonthorst. — B. 30:
several paintings by /. Owens ; portraits of Frederick II. (1559-88) and his
contemporaries. — Tower Boom 32. 'Gottorp Globe' of 1657.
Second Floor. BB. 35-37: Portraits and pictures of important events;
chests, cabinets, and tables of the time of Christian IV. (1588-1648) and
bis successors. — Tower Boom 38: Portraits of Charles Xll. of Sweden
(1697-1718), his sister TJlrika Eleonor, and other royal personages. — The
large Knights' Hall (39), restored in the style of Christian IV. after the
lire, has an elaborate ceiling and contains numerous portraits of royal
p(^rsonages, including an equestrian portrait of Christian IV. (copy). —
RB. 40-42: Portraits, pictures of events, and furniture of the time of
Frederick III. (1648-70). — BR. 43-45: Time of Christian V. (1670-99). —
BR. 46, 47: Time of Frederick IV. (1699-1730); inlaid furniture of the first
half of the 16th cent. (B. 47). — BR. 48, 49: Bococo furniture of the time
of Christian VI. (1730-46) and Frederick V. (1746-66). — B. 50: Christian VII.
(1766-1808). — B. 51: Frederick VI. (1808-36). — B. 52: Christian VIII,
to Hehinger. FREDENSBORG. G9. Route. 437
(1839-48). — R. 53: Portraits of members of the Constituent Assembly of
1849. — We pass through the Corridor (54), the contents of which sup-
plement those of the adjacent rooms, and then descend the staircase to the —
First Floor, the K. wing of which contains nine more rooms (56-64).
tilted up in a modern style. — The visitor should not omit to notice the
\arit-ty of pretty views from the windows.
The 'Palace Church, where the kings of the Oldenburg line used to
lie crowned, olTers a curious mixture iii mediaeval (Tothic (^traceried
windows, net-vaulting) with rich Renaissance details. The intarsia or in-
laid-work of the stalls and royal pew (facing the pulpit), dating from the
time of Christian IV., is by Dutch artists; so, too, are the pulpit, of ebony
and embossed silver, and the Crucifixion in embossed silver un the high-
altar. The gallery is adjoined by the "King's Oratory ('Bedestolen'), which
has been entirely restored since the lire of 1859 in all its old splendour
of carved wood and ivory, and is a<lorned with line paintings from the
Life of Christ by Prof. C. Block (1865). In the window -niches of the
gallery are the arms of the knights of the Danebrog Order.
By turning to the right in the outer court and again to the riglit
through the gate, we reach an old avenue leading to the Palace Gar-
den., which lies on the N. bank of the lake and is laid out in the old
French style, with clipped hedges. It contains the restaurant men-
tioned at p. 436 (i/o M. from the palace-gate) and affords a good
view of the palace. To return to the station we may follow the
Copenhagen road, leading to the S.E. from the garden and finally
Turning to the right.
The continuation of the avenue is the road to (8 Kil.) Fredens-
liorg, which crosses the Gilleleje railway farther on and then diverges
to the right from the Gilleleje road. We lirst traverse fine woods of
iiak and beech, beyond which the road is more open, affording views
of the pretty Lake Esrom on the left.
Slot Fredensborg, the autumn residence of the royal family,
was built in 17'20-'24 in memory of the recently concluded Danish
and Swedish peace. The interior (adm. for 1-6 pers. 2 kr., 7-12
pars. 4 kr.") contains few objects of interest. (Among the pictures:
Karel van Mander, Christian IV. ; Rubens, Christ on the Cross;
Rembrandt, Young girl. ) The simple rooms appropriated to Queen
Alexandra of England will be in.spected with iiitere.^t. The *Park,
considered the most beautiful in Denmark, is open to the public.
Among the works of art it contains are 'Denmark' and 'Norway' by
Wiedewelt, near the main entrance of the chateau. In the 'Nor-
mansdaV are statues of Of) Norwegian peasants in national costume,
preseated by the peasants themselves in the 18th cent., but without
artistic value. The grand avenue in the S. part of the park (guide,
to save time, M e.) contains a Russian pavilion erected by Flmji.
.\lexander III. (adm. fiO ».). Boats for a trip on Lake Esroin may
be obtained at the 'Skipperhus'. — The village of Fredensborg
(Jemhane-Hotel, very fair; Storekro) is a railway-.etation (27 M.
from Copenhagen"). The station is about '^1^ M. from the chateau.
The last intermediate stations are (40 Kil.) Kvhtgaard and
(c'lB Kil.") S!nekker.tte)u where our line Is joined by the coast-railway
(p. 435). — !^8 Kil. Hehinaer. The st.itir.n is close to the pier.
438 Route 69. HELSING0R.
Helsingflrr (/Jaii. Restaurant, fair; Jernbane-Hotel^ at the station,
Hotel 0resund, Sten-Gaden, near the town-hall, botli with cafes-
restaurants ; Brit. Vice-Oonsul, Mr. A. Wright; Lloyd's Agent, Mr.
J. LLund) is an ancient commercial town with 13,900 inhab. and
large docks, on the narrowest part of the Sound, which separates
Zealand from the Swedish province of Skane. — To Helnngbory,
see below.
To the N.E. of the town and about 2/4 M. from the station (we
follow the railway-track round the dock) rises the handsome and
conspicuous castle of *Kroiiborg, massively built of stone by Fred-
erick II. in 1574-85, restored after a flre by Christian IV. in
1G35-37, and enclosed by ramparts and broad moats.
On passing the main gateway (W.), we turn to the left and in
5 min. more, passing through a long archway ending in a Renais-
sance gateway, enter the picturesque inner court, the turrets,
gables, and spire of which date almost wholly from the time of
Christian IV. For the rest the castle, which is chiefly used as bar-
racks, presents little attraction. (Tickets in the inner court, first
door on the left: for the collection of pictures, the chapel, and the
tower 30 0. ; for the chapel alone 20 0. ; for the casemates, 1-8 pers.
25 ». eacli, 9-14 pers. 20 0. each.) The Castle Chaptl has its gal-
leries, pulpit, and stalls adorned with painted and gilded wood-
carving by German masters (c. 1590-1640), restored in 1843. The
room is also shown in which Caroline Matilda, Queen of Chris-
tian VII., was imprisoned for a time on a charge of undue intimaiy
with Struensee. The rooms formerly used by the royal family con-
tain chimney-pieces of the time of Christian IV. and numerous but
unimportant pictures by Danish painters. — The flat roof of the
S.W. Tower (145 steps) commands an extensive *View of the busy
Sound, from the island of Hven as far as KuUen, and of the wooded
coast of Zealand.
The Flag Battery (immediately to the right on issuing from the Re-
naissance gateway) is the 'Platform before the Castle of Elsinore' where
Shakspeare makes the ghost in Hamlet appear, Kronborg is also mentioned
in Danish traditions. Deep down in its casemates slumbers Holger Danske
('the Dane'), a well-known character in Andersen's tales, who will come
forth when his country is in peril.
It was at He]sing0r that the Danish government formerly e.xacted
the Sound Dues from all vessels passing through the strait (from lo,(X'0
to 20,000 annually). The levy of these dues was first instituted by the
Hanseatie League, assumed as a right by the Danes after the fall of the
League, tacitly and afterwards expressly recognised by foreign powers,
and at length commuted in 1857 by the nations interested for a total sum
of 30,476,32.5 Danish riks-dollars (nearly 3V2 million pounds sterling). The
batteries of the castle, however, could not absolutely prevent the passage
of vessels without cooperation from the Swedish side, as was twice proved
by the British fleet.
On the Swedish coast, opposite Hel.singer, lies (31/2 ^-1 ^^'"
singhorg (p. 283). Steamer 6-8 times daily in 20 min. (fare 50 0.).
Tlie through-carriages for Sweden are taken across in the steamer.
^6gaiui:!> , ik alien.
1 "^-r-^dAiira
ri ■ ^ I. C ^'''4? ^^
(lirtstmeboid o T^p^v/r
J 1 : 32.000
BORNHOLM. 70. Route. 439
To the N. W. of Kronborg lies (•'^/4 M.) Marienlyst, a sea-batlung
place. The former royal chateau stands on the slope of a hill which
affords a line view of Kronhorg and Helsinger. A column on the
hill is pointed out as Hamlet's tomb. On the beach are the Bride-
Hotel (rebuilt in 1899) and a new Cur-Hotel, with a view of the
Swedish coast. The Park contains a statue of Hamlet, by N. Petersen.
(jV)//' Links (professional, C. R. Jensen) have recently been laid
out here.
Pleasant walk bence alung the wooded coast to (dVzM.) Hellebaek {Bade-
flolel ; omnibus to Helsing^r, twice daily, 1 kr.), another sea-bathing place.
On the oppisite Swedish coast the red royal chateau of Sofiero and the co;il
mines of Hoganas (p. 285) are conspicuous. The Odiiis/iei, I'/z M. farther
nil, also commands a fine view. — The walk may be advantageously con-
tinued along the wooded coast via (3 M.) Aalsgaard (AaUgaard^s Hotel,
p.>ns. 5 kr.), Hornboek (7 M. ; Pens. Friis), and (12 M.) Nakkehoved, to (13V2 M.)
GiUeleie (Ba(/i /foie/, with garden), a bathing-resort and the largest lisbing-
village in Zealand U" Hillered, see p. 436).
70. Bornholm.
A .'^'fjiAMER plies daily from Copenhagen (Kvasthusbro) to Ronne on (he
island of Dornbolm, either direct (9 hr?.) or via Vstad (p. 274; 11 hrs. ; fare
!S';'_>, there and back 13 kr.). From Riinne an omnibus plies in connection
to Aluiindingen-Helligdommen and to Blanch's Hotel.
The Danish island of Bornholm (230 sq. M. ; 35,000 inhab.)
lies 100 M. from Copenhagen and '24 M. to the .S.Fl. of the Swedish
mainland (3 hrs. from Ystad, p. 274). It yields the porcelain-clay
used in the famous manufactories of Copenhagen. The steamer
lands at Ronne (Darn's Hotel, R. I1/2, D. 12 3 kr. ; Brit. Vice-Con-
sul, Mr. A. Andersen), the capital, on the W. coast. From Ronne
a drive may he made round the rocky island in 3 days (carr. 15,
with two horses 30 kr., and fee). A great attraction is the beech-
wood of Almindingen, in the middle of the island, 9 M. to the E.
of Ronne, with the comfortable Chrisliaruhei Hotel, the heights of
Jnmfrubjeriiet (400 ft.) and R\jtlerknagten{b'i^ ft.; view-tower), and
the KUkodal. — The best scenery is on the N. coast, with the fine
granite *Helligdomsklipper. Adjacent is the *Hotel Helligdomms-
gaarden (R. 1' 0-2, D. 21/4 kr.), 71/2 M- from Almindingen, 14 >r.
from Riinne, and 6 M. from Hammerhafen. To the W. of the cliffs
are the Amlinandi-Sten (i^lir.) and the Vandfald (waterfall). ' — The
most frequented resort is *Blanch'8 Hotel (R. 2'/2i D- '2^, 2) pens.
6 kr. ; advisable to order rooms in advance"), about 10 M. to the N.
of Riinne (omn. in 3 hrs.; carr. 8, with two horses 12 kr.), which
commands acharmingview. Adjacent is the promontory of Hammeren
(275 ft.; lighthouse), projecting iivto the Senelugt. A little to the S.
art- the ruined castle of Hammershvs (13th cent.), the picturesque
linnedal. St.Jonn h'apel^n cliff 135 ft. in height), and other fine points.
440
71. From Copenhagen to Hamburg, by the Danish
Islands and Sleswick.
822 M. Railway the whole way, with the exceptum of the short
f.i-ries to Fiinen and Fredericia. Two through-trains daily in IC'/s lira-
(16 ki-. 5, 21 kr. 65, 14 kr. 40 0.)- — Or the traveller may go by Railway to
Korser (69 M., in 2'/4 hrs.; fares 6 kr. S5, A kr.. 3 kr. 35 0.), thence by
Steamboat (twice daily in about 5 hrs.) to Kiel (p. 413), and by Railway
from Kiel to Hamburg (70 M., in 2V<-3 hrs.; through-service from Copen-
hagen to Hamburg in I21/2 bra., fares 28 kr. 95, 21 kr. 10, 13 kr. 75 0.).
From Copenhagen to Rkrlin the shortest route is now by Warne-
miincle (11 hrs.; fares 30 kr. 55, 22 kr. 30, 14 kr. 65 0.): railway in 41/2 hrs.
to (75 M.) GJedser {see'be\o\\'), at the S. extremity of the i'lland o{Falste7-;
steamboat in about 2 hrs. to (30 M.) Warnemilnde ; railway (express in
41/2 hrs.) thence to (140 M.) Berlin. — Steamuoats also ply from Copen-
hagen to Lilbeck (daily in 11 hrs.), Stralsttiid (in summer daily via Malmii
in about 10 hrs.), Stetlin (once or twice weekly in 15 hrs.), etc.
Copenhagen, sec p. 405. Tlie scenery traversed by the W. Zka-
LANP Line is very pleasant. 1 M. Frederiksberg (p. 429); 71/2 ^'^■
(iLoslnip; 11 M. Taaslrup; 16 M. Hedehusene.
20 M. Koskilde, pron. Roskille (Jernhane- Hotel, R. from l'/.2)
]). 2 kr., well spoken of; Hotel Prlndsen; Rail. Restaurant, luncheon
basket 1 kr.), an old town on the deeply Indented fjord of that
name, the capital of the kingdom down to 1443 (comp. p. 409),
and the residence of the Bishop of Zealand down to the Reforma-
tion, is said to have once had a population 100,000, hut now contains
7300 inhab. only. It Is an important railway-centre.
The only relic of its ancient glory is the fine *Oathedral, con-
secrated in 1084, and restored at subsequent periods, finally in 1868.
Cards of admission (50 e.) may be had from the sacrist.-m or 'Kirke-
betjent', nearly opposite the W. portal.
The Interior contains the tombs of the Danish kings, most of whom,
from Harold 1. (d. 98T) down to Frederick VII. (d. 1863) repose here, the
earlier in vaults, the more recent in chapels. Behind the high-altar, (Jueen
Margaret (d. 1412), with a recumbent alabaster statue (1423), and her brother
Christopher (d. 1363); Christian V. (d. 1699) and Frederick IV. (d. 1730),
with their consorts. In the late-Gothic 'Chapel of the Trinity or of the
Three Wagi (1459-64), on the S. side of the church, are the tombs ol
Christian I. (A. 1481) ; Christian III. (d. 1559), by Corn. Floris -, and Frederick 11.
(d. 1588). On the same side, to the E., is the chapel of Frederick V.,
with the tomb of that king (d. 1766), bv Wiedewelt, and the coffins of
the kings from Christian VI. (d. 1746) to Frederick VII. (d. 1863). Opposite,
on the N. side of the church, is the Chapel of Christian IV., built in the
Renaissance style in 1617, recently restored and decorated with frescoes
by Eddelin and Marstrand. It contains the handsome sarcophagi of
Christian IV. (d. 164S) and of Frederick III. (d. 1730) and his consort (these
two in bronze). The late-Gothic choir-stalls are curiously carved with
s-enes from the Old and New Testaments. The reading-desk should also
be noticed. The large carved high-altar-piece dates from the 16th century.
The small gate opposite the N. side of the church leads to
grounds which command a pleasing view of the fjord.
From Eoskilde to GjEniiv.R ( Wm-nei/mnde), 88 M., railway in 31/2 hrs. —
14 M. Kj0ge (Jernhane- Hotel; Hotel Prindsen ; Lloyd's Agent, Mr. ./. OhUson),
;tii ancient town, prettily situated on the Kj0ge Bugt, where the Danes
under NiH Juel gained a freat naval victury over the Svvedesi in 1677. and
,KORS0R. 71. Route. 441
where Ivitr Hvitfeldt blew upliis ship in 171U (p. 419). In the market-place
is a statue of P'rederick Vll., by Uissen. — Stations: T/iurebi/, Hatlev,
Olstnip. — 39 M. NsBstved (Hotel Vinhiis; Axelhits), near line beech-woods
Branch-line to Skjelskeir and Slacielse (see below). — 48 M. Lnndby. — 55 M.
Vordingborg (//o<. Vnldetnar; JeriibaiieBotel, plain), with 3600 inhab. and a
ruined castle. From its little harbonr (55'/2 M.) MasnedsKnd the line crosses
iin arm of the Belt by a line bridge to the small island of Afcisnede, whence
a steam-ferry conveys passengers across the Great Belt in 17 min. to (60 M.I
OrehovedjOn the isbind oi Fahter. To the island of J/eera, seep. 444. Thence
again bv railway via Kerre-Alslev, Eskilds'rup, and Tingsted, to (74 M.)
Nykj0bing {J urbane- Hotel, R. 2-3 kr.), a small port (7300 inhab.) on tlie
Unldborgsnnd, over which a railway-bridge and a carriage-bridge lead to
the island of Laaland. — Thence we proceed via Veggerlese and Fiskebtih
over a flat peninsula to (S3 M.) Gjedser or GJedser Odde, the southern-
most point of the island (steamboat to Wintiemunde, see p. 440).
From Roskildk to Aakiius via Kali.undborg. To Kallundborg, 49 BI.,
railway in IV2-2V2 hrs. (fares 5 kr. 10, 3 kr. 20, 1 kr. 90 «r.) ; thence to
Aarhus , 5C M., steamboat dailv in 41/2 hrs. (fare 4 kr.). — The chief
intermediate stations are (22i/2 51.) Hothak (Hot. Isefjord), with 3500 inhab.,
on a fjord of the same name, and (36 JI.) Jydernp (Ilot. Skarridsff), near the
picturesque Sknrrirl-Sei. — 49 M, Kallundborg('.ffa!(»n(/6or(jr; Postgaarden). a
small seaport with 320O inhali. and an interesting Romanesque church
(12th cent.), built in the shape of a Greek cro?9 , with fiJur octagonal
towers and a square tower in the middle. — The steamboat to Aarlius
traverses the Kallundbirg Fjord, and tonrhes at ,Sams0, in the Great Belt.
— Afirhtis, see p. 446.
26'/., M. Vihy; .'ll M. Bomv ; 391/-2 M. Ringxled, with an old
Benedictine diurcli. - — 49 M. Sore (Postgaarden, very fair), on tbe
lake of that name, snrronnded by woods; the Cistercian church here
( 12th cent.) contains the tonihs of L. Holberg (p. 410) and of thn-..-
Danish kings.
Farther on the scenery ia uninteresting. 58 M. Slagelse. — 69 M.
Koraet (Hotel Korser ; HotelStore Bell; Rail. Restaurant ; Brit. Vlce-
Con.<. & Lloyds Agent, Mr. S. Moll'ir), a town with 6000 inhab.,
is the starting-point of the large steam-ferry (good restaurant,
luncheon t'/ikr.) which departs 'ohr. after the arrival of the
train and crosses the Great Belt (14 M. wide) in about II/4 hr. to
Nyborg (Postgaarden; Brit. Vice-Cons., Mr. A. Birch; Lloyd's
Agent. Mr. R. Olierbech-Clmisen), a town and harbour on the island
of Funen(I)an. Fyen), with 7800 inhab., remains of an cdd palace,
and a (Jothic church.
The Fiinen Line proceeds by Vllerden, Lange.ikov, and Marxler
to(iyM.) Odense (drand- Hotel; Brockmann'n Hotel, very fair;
Brit. Vice-Cons., Mr. L. B. Mwim; Lloyd's Agent, Mr. (>. M.Friis),
the capital of the island, with 40,100 inhab., the birthplace of
HiDU Chri*tiin Andersen (lS0r)-75), whose house on the Klingenbersi
is marked by a tablet. The Cathedral of St. Kmid, erected in 1086-
1.401, contains monuments of the kings .Tohn and Christian II. The
Frue-h'irke has a carved reredos by Claus Berg of Liibeck (begin-
ning of iCth cent.). The Slot and the Museum (Skole-Gaden ; 6O0.)
contain Northern antiquities. Statue of Frederick VII., by Bissen.
From Odense to Siendborg and the Laitish I-landi, see R. 72.
442 Route 71. SLESWICK.
The following stations are Holmslrup, Toinmerup, Skalbjerg,
Bred, Aarup, Gjelsled, Eiby, Nerre-Aalnj, a,nA(^b2M.)Slrib, at the
N.W. extremity of the island, near the sea-bathing place of Mid-
delfart. Passengers cross the Little Belt (6 M.) in 15-20 min. by a
steam-ferry to —
Fredericia (Victoria Hotel ;\Riiil. Restaurant ; I'.rit. Vice-Cons.,
Mr. II. M. E. Rasmussen), a town with 12,700 inhab., formerly
fortified. An interesting bronze statue of a soldier here commem-
orates the victory of the Danes over the Sleswick- llolstein be-
siegers in 1849.
From Fredericia to FruUrikshavn (Jutland), see R. 73.
The Flensburg line proceeds in a S.W. direction , affording
occasional glimpses of the Little Belt. 5 M. Taulov ; 8 M. ELtang.
12 M. Kolding (*Hot. Kolding, R. 2-3 kr.; Thomsen's Hotel), on
the Kolding Fjord, with 12,500 inhab. and the imposing ruins of
the castle of Koldinghus^ founded in 1248, greatly enlarged in the
16-17th cent., but destroyed by Are in 1808. To the N. of the town
are the Tivoli (restaurant) and (I/4 hr.) the grove of Murienlysl; to
the S. is tlie Steilebjerg, with view.
A pleasant excursion (1 day; carriage for 1-4 pars. 8-12 kr.) may be
made i'rom Kolding to the S.E. to (S'/2 M.) Skamlingsbanken (37u ft. ;
lins(aurant), with a beautiful view of the Litlle BlU, the island of Fiinen,
several other small islands, and the surrounding country. An obelisk
(52 ft. high), erected in 1863, conimemorales the Danish agitation for
preserving the Danish language in Sleswick.
20 M. Lunderskov (branch-line to the W., straight across .Jut-
land, to Esbjerg and Striier, see p. 449).
231/2 M- Vamdrup, the Danish frontier-station. (In the reverse
direction luggage booked for Copenhagen is not examined till the
capital is reached.)
36 M. Woyens, the first German station (luggage examined).
Branch-line in 36 min. to (71/2 M-) Hadersleben. — From (50 M. )
Rothenkrug another branch-line runs to (4 M.) Apenrade. — 59 M.
Tingleff (branch-line to Tondern, for the island of Sylt).
TOM. Flensburg (Hotel Flensburg; Bahnhofs- Hotel; Brit.Vice-
Consul, Mr. Thos. Hollesen; Lloyd's Agent, Mr. H. W. Christopher sen),
a thriving town with 51,000 inhab., beautifully situated on rising
ground at the S. end of the deeply indented Flensburg Fjord.
Fine view from the Belltvue, a cafe on the hill to the W., near the
wind-mills. The Old Cemetery, prettily situated on the same height,
contains a marble sphinx by Thorvaldsen.
87 M. Jiibek, the junction for Husum and TUnning.
941/2 M. Sleswick, gar. Schleswig (Stadt Hamburg, Raven's Hotel,
in the Altstadt; Railamy Hotel), an ancient town with 17,900 in-
hab., consists of a single street, 31/2 M. long, extending round
the W. end of the fjord called the Schlei. Near the station is the
old ducal Schloss Qotlnrp, now a barrack. The Dom in the Altstadt
contains a Iiik; Teredos in cnrved oak by Hans Briigffemann (I;i2i).
SVENDBORG. 72. Route. 448
109 M. Rendsburg, a town with 14,800 inhabitants. We cross
the new North Sea (S- Baltic Cantil. — 130'/2 M. Neumi'mster is the
junction for Kiel (19'/2 M., in 35-46 niin.). — 157 M. Elmshorn.
177 M. Altona (Casino Hotel; Kbniglicher Jlof), a thriving
commercial and manufacturing town with 101,500 inhab., on the
N. bank of the Elbe (see Buedelccr's Northern Germany).
181 M. Hamburg {Hamhtirger Hof, Hot. de I'Eiirofe, Streil's
Hotel, Vier Jahreazeiten, etc.), see Baedeker's Northern Gcrmtny.
72. From Odense to Svendborg, Langeland, Laaland,
Falster, and Moen.
From Odense to Svendborg, 29 M., Railway in Vj-2-2 Urs. (fares 2 kr. 90,
1 kr. 80, 1 kr. 10 0.).
Odense, see p. 441. — The railway runs to the S. via (2^/2 M.)
JYuena Bege, (3 M.) Hjallese, (6 M.) Heiby, (8'/2 M.) Aarslev, and
(10 M.) Pederstrup. — 13 M. Binge (Oastgiverl), the junction of a
branch-line to Nyborg (p. 441).
Fkdm Ringe to Faaeorg. 18 M., railway in I'/i br. (fares 2 kr., 1 kr. 2.5,
li>0.). Several small stations. — 18 M. Taeiborg (Hotel Basnwssen; Lloyd's
Agent, ^fr. P. NieUin), with 3T0O inbali., is pictviresquely situated on llu;
Faabovij Fjord.
16 M. Rudme; IS M. Kvarndrup; 21 M. Stenstrup ; 20 M.
Serup. — 29 M. Svendborg l*V(tndidl\i Hotel; Hottl Svendborg,
K. lYo-2kr. ; Brit. Vice-Coiis., Mr. J. K. Petersen; Lloyd's Agent,
Mr. L. J. von der Hitdc\ with 11,500 inhab., is beautifully situated
on the Si^endborg Sund. Immediately to the N. of the town is tlie
Ovinehei, commanding a fine view. A little fartlier distant is tlio
ruined castle of 0rkd.
The most atlraclive exo.iirsion from Svendborg is that to tlie island
iif Taasinge (fevry or steamer). Tlic ferry cros?es tbe sound to Vindehi/,
wlieneo we walk to tbe hi^h-lying (245 ft.) Bregnimje Kirke (splendid view
troiu tbc tower; key from tbe schoolmaster). Al)out 1^/4 M. to the E. is
Vdldenian Slot, dating from tbe I7th cent, (visitors admitted); and '/v!'*'-
farther to the N., oppc site the island of Thorir, is tbe pretty I'lsbing-hainlit
of Troense (.I^rgenscn's Restaurant; Troensegaard's Keslaurant). — About
1V< M. to the E. of Svendb(jrg (along tbe coast) lies the sea-bathing refoit
of Ohristiansminde (Bath Establishment and Bath Pension, pens, at both,
15 kr), '/< M. beyond which is (Uimmel Hestehare, with large orchards
and manulactiirt'S of wine from fruits. — Troense, Chiistiansnilnde, and
(iamnu'l Ili'Stchavo are all visited bv the steamers.
From Svendborg vift, Langeland to Masnedsund.
From Svendlorg to Rudkjuling, 12 Jf., Stkamboat in l'/4 lir. (fare 1 Ur.
10 0). From Kudkjabing to Spodsbjery, 5'/-' J'., Diligence (75 K.); theme
to (lU M.) Nokskov Steamboat in I'/i hr, (fares 2 kr. 25, 1 kr. 85, I kr. .50 t*.).
Friiin Nakskov to Moiiiedsniid, 49 M., Railwat in 3V4-41irs.
The steamer steers between Taasinge and There, on the right,
and Fiiueu, on the left, to the long islan<l of [.angeland. Rudkj«bing
(H<.t<-1 Liingeliinil \ i.loyil's Agent, Mr. J. E. I'ettrsen), tin! only town
444 Route 72. MARIBO.
on tbe island, with 8500inbab., was the birthplace of Hans Christian
0rsled (1777-1851), discoverer of electro- magnetism (comp.
p. 426). — About 8 M. to the N. is the stately castle of Tranekjar,
mentioned as early as the 13th cent., now the property of Count
Alilefeldt. — The steamer also calls at LohnLs, at the N. extremity
of the island.
From Kudkj0bing the road runs to the E., across the broadest
part of tlie fertile island, to Spodshjerg, whence another steamer
crosses the Lnngekmds Belt and the Nakskov Fjord in i^/^ hr. to the
island of Laaland (or Lolland). Nakskov (Hotel Skandinavien),
where we land, is a town of 8300 inhab., with a large sugar-factory,
the tower of which commands a line view (apply to the manager).
Near the harbour begins the dyke, erected after the great inundation
of 1872 to protect the W. and S. coasts of Laaland, along ■which it
extends to beyond Riedby, a distance of about 25 M. — About ^/^ M.
to the N. of Nakskov is the pleasure-resort of Svinglen, with a
restaurant.
A pleasant drive (5 hrs. •, carr. 10 kr.) may be taken to the N.E. via.
Sahi/Zwlm and Juellinge to (8 M.) Pederstntp, the imposing chfiteau of Count,
Reventlow.
From Nakskov to Masnedsund, railway (see p. 443). — The
district traversed is fertile, with fields divided by hedges ('knicke'). —
51/2 M. Sellested; lO'/o M. Ryde. — 151/2 M. Maribo (Olsens Hotel;
Hotel Mariho ; Railway Restaurant), a town with 3800 inhab. and a
handsome Gothic church (14th cent. ), occupies a pleasant site on
the Maribo-Se. Near the station is a Museum. — Branch-lines run
hence, to the S, to Redby, and to the N. to Bandholm, whence a
visit may be paid to Knuthenborg, an aristocratic mansion with a
tine park.
21 M. Saxkjebing (Hotel Saxkjebing) is a small town with 1500
inhabitants. Beyond (26 M.) Grange abridge, 690 yds. long, crosses
the Quldborgsund to (31 M.) Nykj«rbing (p. 441), the capital (6100
inhab.) of the island of FaUter.
A pleasant excursion may be taken hence (diligence twice daily in
IV* 111-. ; 1 kr. 35 0.) to (101/2 M.) Jfysted (Petersen's Hotel, unpretending),
'/4 M. from which is Count Kaben-Levetzau''s chateau of Aalholm, perhaps
the oldest building in Denmark. Its tower affords a splendid view; and
in the park are some rare trees. — The model-farm of Ourupgaurd lie.s
3I/-2 M. to the E. of Nykjjjbing.
From Nykjabing to Masnedsund, see p. 441.
M«ren.
From Masnedsund to Stege, I81/2M., Steamboat daily in 2 hrs. (good
restaurant on board). A steamer also plies from Copenhagen in 6 hrs. —
From Stege to lAseUind (M^enaklint), 10 M., Carriage in 2 hrs. (1-4 pers.
7 kr. 0 0. ; from the postmaster). — A visit to the island of Meen is very
attractive. The W. half is flat and uninteresting, but the E. half, known
as mint, is rocky, with chalk cliils rising sheer from the sea. The white
and often fantastic cliffs, with their verdant ravines unite with the blue
sea to produce a scene of great beautv.
M0EN. 7^2. Route. 445
Mamedmnd, seep. 441. — Tho stfambciat skirts the wooded is-
lands of Zealand, on tlie left, and Falster and Bogt«, on the right,
and coasts along Meen to (l^'Ai M.l Stege (Baden's Hotel; Lloyd's
.\gent, Mr. H. F. Caroe), the only town (2'200 iivhah.) on the island,
with remains of its old castle and walls. Stege is situated on the
more northerly of the two peninsulas that separate the hay of Noret
from the Great Belt.
The road to Liselund leads to the E., through a monotonous
district, to the (7 M.) village of Borre, with its little Romanesque
church of the 12th century. Borre was at one time a seaport, but
the rlsingof the ground has converted the bay on which it stood into the
marshy Borre-Se. — About 21/2 M. farther on is Baron Kosenkrantz's
estate of Liseltmd^ with a modest but good restaurant (pens. 5 kr. )
at the farm-house. A path leading through the garden of the farm
and then througii a ravine brings us to the Lille Klint ('little cliff'),
with a small chapel built on the model of Tell's Chape! on the Lake
L of Lucerne (fine view). Thence we follow the top of the cliffs to the
[. S., passing a number of steep and curiously shaped rocks separated
j by wooded ravines known as FaW, and reach the Store Klint ('great
; cliff'), which includes the Tcder ('.speaker'; 335ft.) and the Hijlle-
: dnlsklint (A20i't.). To our right, inland, rises the (I/2 M.) Aborrebjerg
(465 ft.), the highest point in the island (fine view). Wv. continue
to skirt the coast to the S., passing the wide ravine of Mtiglevands-
faldet (Store Knud's Inn), the «Sommers/)/r ('summer peak'), and
the Sleilebjerg, a (diff on the S. edge of the woods. Hetnrtiing to
Knud's Tun, we may (in favourable weather) row thence back to
Liselund.
73. From Fredericia to Frederikshavn. Jutland.
209 M. Railway in 8'/« his. (Cares l'> kr.. 7 kr. fXI, i ki-. ;x.l f». I. licst
vie.w.s to the right.
Fredericia, see p. 442. — Beyond (S M.) Berkop wc enjoy, to
the right, a fine view of the Veile Fjord, among tho woods at tho
W. end of which is (16';2 M.) Veile (Hotel Royal; Lloyd's Agent,
Mr. Otto Hansen), a little town of 14,(i00 inhab.
The train skirts the N. bank of the fjord via (23V2 M.) Dan-
iinard and (29 M.) Leming to (37 M.) Horsens (Jergensen's Hotel ;
SknndinaiHe), on the Honsens Fjord, an ancient town with 22,200
inhabitants. The Vor-Frelsers-Kirke contains a carved pulpit of
1663-70; and the disused Convent Church old tombstones of tlir
17-18tli centuries. — 43 M. Tvingslrup; 451/2 M. Hovedgaard.
55 M. Skanderborg (Phenix, well spoken of; Skandinavie) , a
little town of 2700 inhab., is picturesquely situated on an isthmus
between two lakes (boats for hire). Fine view from the church
tower. The Dyrehave or Deer Park lies '2 M. to the W. of the town.
446 Route 13. AAKHUiS. Fru\i\ Frederida
Fkom Skandkisboiuj to SiLKEBoKG, ID'/zM., railway in 1 hr. (fares 2kr.,
1 kr. 25, 75 0.). This line goes ou to Hcriting and Skjern (p. 449). —
Meyond (3 M.) yl/Asn, on {\\i' Mos.^e, the line travei-ses a pleasant undulating
CDUutry, varied by woods, ninors, and lakes. — 71/2 M. /iw, on the i!7(«-i5ai.
From (IO1/2 M.) Laven (inn, at the station), a steamboat (40 0., return fare
70 fi.) crosses the Jul-Sm, from the other side of which (Hotel Jul.s/j) the
Ilimmelhjerg (p. 446) may be ascended in 20-25 minutes.
IS'/zM- Silkeborg ("Silkehovg; Dania; Missions- Hotel) ^ with 7200inhab.,
a town dating only from 1844, is situated at the influx of the Otidenaa into
the Lang-Se, one of the most picturesque points in Denmark. An excursion
cm the river (attractive) is most conveniently made in one of the small
boats propelled by paddle-wheels worked by hand (12 kr. per day ; the boat-
man acts also as guide). A steamboat also plies several times daily to
the Himmelbjerg (1 kr., return-fare IV2 kr. ; to Laven, see above). Among
the various points of interest in the vicinity the finest are: in the N^r-
rcskov, to the S.E., the Ulbehoved (240 ft.) and Lovisehei (240ft.), and, in
the Ry-N(9rreskov, the Himmelbjerg (515 ft.; Hotel Himmelbjerget, good and
moderate; belvedere in the vicinity, 25)?.); in the Sizrnderskov, to the S.,
ttie Caroline- Amalii'shei (213 ft.) and Aaseii (288 ft.); in the Vesterskov, to the
iS.W., Krogh's Bank on the Alminde-Se (carr. 8 kv.), and farther otl', Frederik
den Syvendes Hai (367 ft.) and Frederikkehei (360 ft.).
Beyond (^59'/2 M.) Hernlny the StiUiny-Se appears on the right.
— 62'/2 M. Hasselager.
68 M. Aarhus (*H6tel Royal, U. 1V2-3, D. 2 kr. ; Skandinavie;
Central Hotel; tramway from tlie station to the cathedral 10 0.; cab
Go 0., per hr. 1 kr. 35 0. ; Brit. Consul, Mr. G. F. Stark; Lloyd's
Agent, Mr. C. G. E. von der Hude), an ancient town with 51,800 in-
hab. and a large harbour, on a fjord of the same name, is the junc-
tion for the E. Jutland railway. The Cathedral was founded in 1201
and has been frequently restored. The Museum, in the E. part of
the town, containing casts, paintings, and antiquities, is open free
on Sat. & Sun., 12-2 (in winter 12-3); at other times on application
(1-2 pers. 1 kr.). — A pleasant drive may be taken through the
Marselisborg woods to 0rnereden ('eagle's nest'), with fine views
( carriage-and-pair 8 kr., from Dyhr at the Hotel Boyal).
From Aarhus to Uyomgaard, 24V2 M. , branch-railway in IV'z-Shrs.
— IV4 M. Rifskoo (Restaurants Salon, Ferdinandsplads , Pavilion), on
the coast, backed by beautiful woods. Then : Lystriip, Hjortshei, Legten,
Hornslet. — 18 M. Meii-ke, whence an attractive road leads via Rende to the
ruins of the ca.stle of Kalei, where Gnstavus Vasa was confined in 1518-19. —
24V2M. Ryomgaard is the junction for the line fromEanders to Grenaa (p. 447).
From Aakhus to Hou, 221/2 M., railway in about I3/4 hr. (fares 2 kr. 45,
1 kr. 50 0.).
721/2 M. Brahrand. On the W. bank of the Brahrand-Se lies the
estate of Conslantinsbory. — 77 M. Mundelsirup ; 881/2 M. Hinnerup.
To the W. stretch the forests of Count Friis. — 89 M. Hadsteen ; in
the woods to the left is the chateau of Faurskov. To the left, at
(92 M.) Lerhery, is the chateau of Bistrup. — 94 M, Laurbery.
To the S. lies the well-wooded principality of Friisenborg, belonging
to Ciiunt Friis, whose chateau of Friisenborg, in the style of Christian IV.
(p. 409), lies 10 M. to the S.E., with a large park (visitors admitted). Also
to the S.E. of Laurberg are (13/4 M.) Houlbjerg, (5 M.) Haururn, and (71/2 M.)
Friisendal. From Hammel ('Inn), 20 M. to the S.E., a diligence plies to
Munerup (see above; l'/2 hr. ; 1 kr. b n.).
to Frcilcriksliom. AAI.HUKti. 7:i. Roulc. 447
Wc cross tbc (iudenau, the largest river in Jutland, by an iron
bridge (blown up in 1864 ), and reach (97 M.) Langaa (Rail. Restau-
rant), junction of the "NV. Jutland railway to Viborg (see p. 450j.
105 M. Banders (Hotel Randers, very fair; Rail. Restaurant;
Brit. Vice-Consul, Mr. A. Kraimfoc; Lloyd's Agent, Mr. J. S. W.
Hald), junction for the E. Jutland railway, on the broad Gudenaa,
has 20,300 inhabitants. The Gothic St. Martens-Kirke (14-15th cent. ;
lately restored) contains some good wood-carviiig of the 17th century.
The large Scandia Carriage Factory may be visited on application.
lUVa M. Faarup ; II8V2 M. Onsild. — 1241/2 M. Hobro (Hotel
Irersen; Meller), with 3100 iiihab., lies at the W. end of the pretty
Mariager Fjord.
About 7 M. to the W. lies Mariager (H6tel Jensen), with 90() inliab.,
to which a steamboat plies in 1 hr. (faru 5U 0.). The church and the ad-
joining building are relics of an old convent. The Hohei (360 ft.), 1 31.
tu the S., commands a fine view.
134 M. Arden. The railway runt* through line woods. 1381/2 ^^•
Skjerping; lAd^/2M. Stevring; 146 M. EUidshei; 149 M. Svendstrup.
loo M. Aalborg (Fhenlv, R. l^/o, B. 3/^ kr., very fair; Beier's
Hotel; Hotel du Nord; Rail. Restaurant; Brit. Vice -Cons., Mr.
W. F. Godbey; Lloyd's Agent, Mr. P. M. Simoni), one of the oldest
towns in the country (31,400 inhab.), is situated on the Limfjord,
which connects the North Sea and the Kattegat. The town, which
is intersected by live 'Aaer' or streamlets (numerous bridges),
contains some picturesque old houses in the Renaissance style of
the 17th century. The Budolphi-Kirke, though dating from the
14th cent., was practically rebuilt in 1759-79; the Fruc-Kirke
(restored in 18(39) is older but was injured by fire in 1894. Parts
of the Hospital date from the 15th century. The Museum, containing
paintings, antiquities, and ca.sts, is open free on Sat., l'2-'2, and
Sun. and holidays, 2-4; at other times adra. 50 0.
l-'rom -Valborg tti 7'hisied and via Viborg to Langaa, see E. 74.
The Limfjord is now crossed by a pontoon-bridge and by an iron
railway-bridge (330 yds. long; 16ft. broad), opened in 1879 at a
costof3.000.000kr. On theN.bank, opposite Aalborg, lies(156M.)
Nerrc-Sundhy.
To the left of (^IGO M.) Sulstcd stretches the extensive Vild-
mose, where curious uiirage-cffects are frequently observed in sum-
mer. 173 m. Brendersle" ; 179 M. Vraa. — 1861 '9 M- Hj«rring
(liyppers Hotel; Sk(mdinaijie; Lloyd's Agent, Mr. J.H. Nielsen), an
old town (7900 iiihab.), 71 q M. to the W. of which is ^Lenstrup
(Llnnemann's Inn), a sea-bathing resort on the Kattegat (diligence
daily, except Sun."). About 1^74 M. to the S. of Lemstrup rises the
Ruhjerg Knude (242 ft. ; wide view). — I891/2 M. Sindal; 1931/2 M.
Kvissel.
209 M. Frederikshavnf/^imta, Cimbria, at the harbour; Hoff-
mann's, in the town, D. 2 kr. ; Casino Restaurant, at the station;
448 Route 73. SKAGEN.
Brit. Vice-CoiiS,, Mr. W. •Schmidt; Lloyds Agent, Mr. P. J. Kail),
a small seaport with 6500 inhab., was known as Fladstrand until
1818. Pleasant walk on the N. pier (bathing-establishment).
About 2'/2M. to the W. of Frederikshavn is the church of Flade (fine
view), embosomed in woods. — A diligence (railway in progress) plies
twice daily to the S. to (8 M.) Scebtj (Hotel Havmonien, with fair restau-
rant), a little town with mineral springs and sea-batha. Adjoining it on
the W. is the beautiful Saby^ards Wood (restaurant).
From Fkkderikshavn to Gotenburg ateambuat in summer daily in
■i';.!-5 hrs. acros.s the Kattegat, where the sea is generally apt to be rough
(see p. 283). The approach to Gotenburg through the Skargard is very
pleasant (comp. pp. 283, 84). — Steamboats also ply from Frederikshavn to
Chnsliania (once weekly in 21 hrs. ; 20 kr., 14 kv.) juid to Christiansaiid
tthrice weekly in 10-11 hrs.; 14 kr., 8 kr 1.
Excursion to Skagen.
'2b M. Railwav in about I'/i lir. (fares 2 kr. 50, 1 kr. 50 a.}.
The railway leads through a moor near the coast, passing a tew
country-seats. Stations: 5 M. Rinnnen; 8 M. Jerup; 12'/2 M. Aal-
htk (unpretending inn), a lishing-hamlet. Thence it runs among
the dunes via (15 M.j Bunken, (\.~\l-2 M. ) HiUny, and (2'2 M.)
Hegen, to —
25 M. Skagen {Bade Hotel; Skagen, R. 2-3 kr,; Brenduvis Hotel,
R. lVL-2kr.), the chief fishing-port of Denmark (2400 inhab.),
stretching among the sand-hills that border the Kattegat. The
former house of the 'Byfoged', or town-bailiff, is adorned with the
name-boards of wrecked vessels. About 172 M. to the N. is the
new Lighthouse. 145 ft. high, to which visitors are admitted on
application to the 'Fyrmester' between 10 a.m. and one hour before
dusk (50 0. to the light-keeper acting as guide, who speaks Eng-
lish). From the top, which commands a wide view, the line of
foam marking the meeting of the North Sea and the Baltic may
be discerned. The lighthouse lies about ''^ M. from Grenen, the
N. extremity of Denmark (57" 45' N. lat.). About 41/2 M. to the
E. is a light-hip.
The old ruined church of Skagen (key at the lighthouse) lies
balf-buried in the sand. — The return to Aalbwk (carriage, bargain
necessary) may be made along the coast of the North Sea, via
(21/2 M.) Helen or Gammel Skagen, at the beginning of the dreaded
'Iron Coast', marked by wreckage and the surf above the triple
reef that runs parallel with the shore, and (7 M.) Kandestederne
(pron. Kannesterne). Here we turn inland and cross the sand-
drifts (guide-posts) via the Raahjeryer Miler and Kirkc to (15 M.)
Aalbsek (see above).
449
74. From Aalborg on the Limfjord to Thisted and via
Viborg to Langaa.
Steamek froiu Aalborg tn Thistad iu 5-7 Lrs. (fares 5, 3 kr.). — From
Thisted to Langaa, 117 M., KAiLWAr in 8-9 hrs, (fares 5 kr. 50, 3 kr. 25 0.;
no first clas.s).
Anlhorg, see p. 447. — The vessel steams to the W. through the
Limfjord (100 M. long; average depth only 6-12 ft.), which cuts off
the N. part of Jutland, known as \endsyssel. Beyond the islands of
Gjelland and 0Land (on the right ) we enter the narrow Aggersund, but
beyond Legsler the fjord again expands. We then pass through the
Fegyesund, with the peninsula of Hannts on the right and the narrow
i.-thinus of Fegyeklit on the lefr, and enter the Thisted Bredniny, on
the N. bay of which is the picturesquely-situated Thisted (Hotel
Royal; Hotel Aalhory ; Brit. Vice-Consul & Lloyd's Agent, Mr.
E. A. Bendl.vtn), a small trading-town with COOO inhabitants.
A road (diligence daily) leads to the N.W. from Th'sted, between
Veslur Yandtl and the Norssn, to (lOV-.- M.) the sea-batha of KlUmallev (Hath
Hotel, fair), whence a vi.sit may be paid to the (7 M.) grea lighthouse of
Hanstliulin (fee 50 0. \ splendid viewj.
The Railavay to Viuorg traverses the W. part of the district of
Thi-ted. — At (41/2 M. from Thisted) Sjerriny are the ruins of a
castle, close to the line, on the right. To the right, beyond (91/2 M.)
Snedsted and {i'l^/2 M.) Herdum, lies the long and narrow Ovtse. —
171/2 M. Bedsled; 22 M. Hump. Beyond (241/2 M.) Ydbij the line runs
along the narrow isthmus between the Niasuin Bredniny (on the right)
aud the SIdbsted Fjord [on the left) to (21)1/2 M.) Lynyi. In the dis-
tance to the W. is the narrow Tliybo Ren Canal, the W. opening of
the Limfjord. 32iM. //-uW^ry ,• So'/o^I- Vglev. From (38 M.) OcZt/e-
nund Nord a steam-ferry crosses the Ottensund or Oddesund (I1/2 M.
broad), said to be named after the Emperor Otho the Great, who
advanced to this N. point and hurled his spear into the sea. To the
left is the island of Veve. — 46 M. Oddesund Syd; 47'/2 M- Humlum.
o2i 2 M. Struer (Schon's Hotel; Hotel Struer, R. 11/0-2 kr.;
Rail. Restaurant), a small place (3000 inhab.) on the Limfjord.
Fkom Stkuek to LuNDiiusKov, 125 31., lailwav in about IOV2 hrs. (fares
J) kr. 26, 5 kr. 75, 3 kr. 50 0.), skirtinsj the W. c( ast of Jutland. —
Priiiciia! stations: 9'/'2 M. Holsltbro ; 2IV2 M. Vemb (branch-line to i«»ii)»(/);
ij!i'/2 i^l- liingkjebiiig , near the sea-baths ot Sandervig. — Sl'/i M. Skjern,
iunctiou f<ir Silkeburg (p. 44(i) and Aarhus (p. 44G) :, SO M. Varde. — 88 M.
Esbjerg (Hot. Spang sbevg ; Hot. lioyal: Brit. Vice-Cons., Mr. ./. Xieheii ;
Lloyd's Agent, J/;-. C. Breiiiholl). a thriviut; town of 13,0(X) inhab., is,
next to Copenhagen, the most important seaport for the Danish e.xport-
irade to Germany, England, etc. Steamboats several times weekly to
Harwich and Grimsby (see p. .xiii). [A steamer plies 3 5 times daily from
Ksbjerg to (•/-' hr ; fi.reSO, 'M 0.) the island nfFana, visited as a bathiu^i-
rcsirt. On the E. coast of the island lies the clean little village oi Nordby
(Hot. Nordby ; Kicrgegaarden ; Krogaardeu) ; on the W. coast, I1/2 M. from
Nordby, is Fane yords*}bad,\\i\\\ a large Curhaus (II. 'i'/-2-0, B. 1, dej. 2, D. 3,
board 5 kr. ; bath 60 ji*. ; visitors" ta.\ 12 kr. for 1 pers., 5 kr. for each addit.
pirs.) and several pretty villas let to sea-bathers in summer.] — • 102 M.
Hramminge, junction lor Hvidding vid Hibe, an old episcopal town, with a
Konianesque cathedral (jf the l2tli ccntuiy. -125 .M. LiiwUrskov, .^ee p. 412.
MAEi)|.;KiiK's Norway an.l Sweden. SIh Kdit. 29
450 Rnute 74. VIBORG.
Tlie train now skirts the S. bank of the Limfjord. Ol^/'i ^^•
Vindenip. From (74 M.) Skive {Hot. Gluds; 2r)0U inhab.) a branch
line runs via Glynyore to Nykj^biny on tlie island of Mors.
"We next traverse a barren and monotonous region via Heisler,
Sloholm, and Sparkjer, to (9'2 M.) Viborg (Freislers; Hotel riionix),
an ancient town with 8G00 iuhab., picturesquely situated on the
Viborg-Se. The Romanesque *Cathedral, dating from the 12th cent.,
and restored in 1863-7G, is built of light-coloured granite. It contains
the relics of King Eric Glipping, murdered in 1286. The Borgeuold
Park (restaurant; boats) occupies the site of the ancient castle.
A pleasant excursion may be made hence to (41/2 M. I Ilald, a country
seat on the charming //aW-»Sef (visitors admitted to the park (in application),
and thence by an avenue on the left to the ruin ui Hald. A pretty walk
leads along the hank of the lake to the S.W. , via liiikkelund (inn), to
JlvUemji, willi a factnry l(ir wnrsted goods. The hills cimiiuand line views.
951/2 M- iiindsholm, on a lake. From (100 M.) liedkjersbro a
diligence plies daily to Silkeborg (p. 44()) in .'{'/-i hrs. (2 kr. 10 0.).
— 107 M. Bierringbro; 112V)M- lUslrup. — HTM. Langua, see
p. 447.
INDEX.
Tlio Swedish «, Ihc Ndrvvcyian cc, and thr, Swedish a are placed here
iriimcdiatcly after the letter a, and the Swedish o and the Norwegian 0
after the letter o. But observe that in the Swedish and Danish or Nor-
wegian dictionaries these diphthongs cume at the end of the alphabet.
Aabergshygd f5.
AalMi-EIv ItO.
Aaliocen 79.
Aab^dal 95.
.Ubrelckebrre 1P6
.\ad:il, Store IfG. 167.
— , Veslc 165. 166.
Aadalen (Lake Siiirillcn
50. 51.
Aadalsbrug 74.
Aadals-Elv 26. 50.
Aadland 124. ia5.
.\adland.sfj()rd 105.
Aadnoram 94.
Aaen lOS.
Aagottind 213.
Aahcim 37.
Aahjem 177.
Aak, (iaard 2U8.
.Vaken 59.
Aaker 74.
Aakernsesfjcld 20'.
AaklunKen 35.
Aakre 100.
Aakrekainpcn 169.
Aakrc-Sn ter 169.
Aakrevand 169-
Aakviknavcr 237.
Aal 47.
Aalbergfjchl 228.
Aalborg 447.
Aalbu 218.
Aalesund 202.
Aalf,)eld 55.
Aalfjord 100.
Aalfot 183.
Aalfotfjord 1^3.
Aalhus" 180.
Aalsgaard 439.
Aalvik 106.
Aani, Oaard 203.
Aamdal 203.
Aainlid 5.
Aamodt 1 Teleinarken 1 33.
.\amot (l>rauimens-Elv)
25.
— (BrotcdalJ 67. _
^ (0sterdalen) 73.
lAaniut (Stardal) 181.
Aamots-Elv 73.
Aandalsnoes 207.
Aangelsvand 195.
Aaning 189.
.\anstad 66.
Aapo-EIv 107.
Aaraksfjdrd 4.
.Varbodstind 250.
.\ardal (J0lstervand) 180
— (Sognefj(ird) 142.
— (Stavanger) 94.
Aardals-Elv 142. 149.
.\ardalsfjord (Saiters-
dal) 4."
— (Sosnefjord) 142.
— fStavangcr) 94.
AardaUniit 4.
Aardalsosen 94.
.Vardalsvand 14'J.
Aard0la 149_
Aareberge 178.
.Vare-Spcter 149.
.\arheimsfjcld 185.
Aarhus (Uenniarkj 416
— i Teidalen 132.
Aarlivdld 73. 219.
Aarniot 132.
.Varna's 32. 78.
.\ar0 206. 210. 248.
Aar0h(ilni 256.
Aarsand 104.
.\arsethorn 2.^4.
Aarslad 122.
Aartun 95.
Aarup 442.
Aarvik 104.
Aat^ iO.
Aasseter 141 154
.\asatvand 144.
Aasberg 43.
Aa,sdal 113.
Aase, Gaard 103.
.\asen (Hainmervandj226
(N<)rdni0re) 219.
— (Sandefj(ird) 34.
— Sietre 68.
Aasenvand 180.
Aaserals Sanatorium 90.
Aas^aardstranden 8.
Aashamnier 213.
Aaspelifjeld 191.
Aasta 75.
Aavbrekkebrse 186.
.\avestrud 45.
A axel 128.
Abbortrask 402.
Adelso 352.
AdoUsberg 308 370.
Advent Bay 269.
Afdalsfos 150.
Aga 107.
Agi. 392.
Akers-Elv 12.
.Vkersvik 61.
Akkasolki 253.
Akkatje Fall 393.
Aktsek 403.
Ala-Klv 56.
Alap 252.
Allirektssuud 86.
Mby 381.
\lden 176.
Alderen 238.
Aldern, Lake 381.
.MfarniLS 211.
Alfstad 43.
Mfsvaag 247.
Alf vesta 279.
Algas-Varre 263.
Minjisas 299.
Aiken 446.
Vllinandbjerg 73.
Mmarc-Stiik 356.
Almedal 287.
Alnienningen 233.
\liuindin;;cn 129.243.439.
Alniklov 177.
Alna 60.
Mnarp 276.
Alnas-Njarga 257.
Alnrcs 209.
AlnG 388. 392.
.•Vlsen.sj6 383.
Alsikc 357.
Al.suio 145.
29*
452
INDEX.
Alstahoug 236.
Alsten 296.
Anen.258.
AUenfjord 258.
Altenhus 258.
AUerh0i 209.
Altevand 252.
Altona 443.
Alvastra 30j.
Alverstr0m 131-
Amager 409.
Amble 140.
Ana.iaur 399.
Andorjjif 250.
And0 247.
Andvord £6.
Aneby 308.
Angedal 179.
Angvik 217. 210.
Anjans.io 384.
Ankarsrum 282.
Anneberg 287.
Anneklef 278
Anundsjo 389.
A paid 108
Apalst0 38.
Appelvser 234.
Aralden 176.
Arboga 369.
Arbra 330.
Arctic Circle 2.38. 401.
Arden 447.
Aremarks-Sj0 83.
Arendal 7.
Arildslage 285.
AringsSs 279.
Arko 311.
Arlof 275. 276.
Arne 124.
Arnefjord 132.
Arnevaag 124.
Arn0 (Lyngentj(ird) 255.
257.
Ai'iDJer (Kiinnen) 240.
Arrebuvand 41.
Arstad 241.
Arvidsvik 86.
Arvika 312.
Asbj0rnnaa,se 145.
Asbrsekke Bro 128.
Ask 26.
Askelihoug 26.
Asker 23.
Askersund 308.
Askevik 183.
Askim 80.
Ask0 123.
Askrike Fjard 35U.
Aslaksborg 32.
Aspedammen 83.
Aspen, Lilla & Stora 368
— Sjo 299.
Aspern 83.
Asp0 202.
Astatjord 2.50.
Astholm 392.
Alle0 176.
Atna 75.
Atnebro 75.
Atne-Sj0 75.
Atnevand 64.
Auerf)ord 251.
Auflemsfjeld 185. 187.
.\ugedal 34.
Augunshaug 44.
.\ugvaldsna's 99.
.\uiua 76.
Aune (Opdal) 73. 217.
Aura Elv 70 214.
Aurdal, S0ndre 51.
— , No-dre 54
Aurdalsfjord 54.
Aure 202.
.\ur-Elv 67.
Aurestupe 214.
Anrland(Sognefjoi-d) 139.
Aurland.sfjord 137. 139.
Aur,sj0 67. 70. 217.
- Hytte 70 217.
Aursnfes 202.
Aur.stad 228.
Aurstaupa 214.
Aursund-SJ0 76.
.Vustabottinder 156
Austbjerg 73.
Austdal, seeJB'versteDal.
Austerdalsbrpe 142. 181.
Ava.saxa 404.
Avei-0 216.
Avesta 374.
Axelfold 275.
Axenses 105.
Axvall 300.
AcklingsjiJ 384.
JEnsea 103.
<Kri 60.
.Evelsbrse 213.
Aby 311.
Abyggeby 379.
.\byn 396.
Adals Liden 389.
Abus 278.
.\karp 276.
Aker 357.
Akens Styckebruk 311.
Akerl^ass 295.
.\land 374.
.Viand Islands 391.
Alkistan 348. 349.
AUeberg 300.
Alsiitra 368.
Amanningcn, Lake 367.
Amal 371.
Amiunct 393.
Amot 312.
.\nge 381. 386.
AngernQ<in-Klf 3b^9.
Animskog 371.
Ann 385.
Are 384.
.\reskutan 374.
Arnas 387.
Arstavik 312.
Asa 287.
\sberg 380. 395.
Ashammar 380.
Askloster 287.
Astorp 275. 284.
Astrask 390.
Asunden, Lake 303. 309.
Atvidaberg 310.
Backa 237.
Baggensfjard 349
Baggetorp 301.
Bagli 154.
Bak 73. 219.
Bakke (Hardanger) 104.
— (Nfer^fjord) 138.
— (Ottadal) 71.
Bakkeberg 158. 159.
Bakket'os 145.
Bakkehaug 251.
Bakken 30.
Bak Yri 186.
Balangen 249.
Bale-SsEter 133.
Balestrand 133.
Balholm 133.
Balingslof 278.
Balmi .Toki 242.
Balsfjnrd 252.
Balstad 245.
Bamle 30.
Bandi\k-Nordsj0 Uaual
37.
Bandakslid 39.
Bandaks0 38.
Bandaksvand 38.
Bang 51.
Bangsund 227.
Baiikeberg 308.
Kankeryd 303.
Bara 274.
Barbo 7.
Bardlingbo 366.
Bardudal 252.
Bardufos 253.
Barkaker 34.
Barkald 76.
Barkakra 285.
Barken, Lake 367. 368.
Barui0 177.
Barsh0gda 139.
INDEX.
453
Bar.'itwsljord 143.
Bastutriisk 390. 39 i.
Battenfjortls^rt'ii 216.
Backa 377.
Backesiii 381.
BackcfDr.-i 83.
Biegna26. 50. 114. etc.
Bsegnadal 54.
Bsckkelaget 79. 20.
Bferrastgilen 31. 113.
Bseverdal 158. 159.
Bseverkjsern Hals 159.
Rsevertun-Sater 157.
— Vand 159.
Bjevra 63. 156.
BSgaedct 389.
Balsta 367.
Bangbro 3li9.
BSnghamniar 369.
Bararp 286.
Barekulle 285.
BSsiad 285.
Bear Islands 269.
r.clring 181.
lieian 215. 216. 533.
I'.oieiendal 238.
r.'ierenl'jord 241.
Il^isfjord 249.
i;.iteln 137.
l',-ito-S»ters 164.
}! itstadfiord 227.
Bcljok 264.
r.iU, the Great and Little
141. 442.
lieiigstfm-s 85. 299.
Ilpnnnt's 186.
H.-nsjordtind 252.
li. rdal 149.
Berdle 176.
Herekvain 140.
Berg (Frcdrikshald) 81.
— (Gota-Canal) 306.
Berga 282.
Kcrge CKijerlandsfjord)
134. 137.
— (Foitiindal) 155.
— (Siui.lal) 216.
— (T.itakvand) 31.
I'.ertrcdal 137.
Berget'i)r.*en 388.
Bcrgeland 94.
Birgemsvand 181.
r.ergen 115.
Hergheim 181.
Berghulnivs 238.
Hergc|vara9J6 280.
Bergsbrunna 355.
Berg.'^dal 124. 155. 18J.
Bergseng 62.
Beriset, Gaard 145.
Bergsljord 257.
Bergsgarden 377.
Bergsjo 392.
I'.iTgstad 189,
I'ergsund, Gaard 50.
Bergvik 380.
I'.erhelletjcrn 47.
Berlevaag 263.
Bemstorflf 435.
Besaker 234.
Besegg 170.
Kesh0 167. 170.
Biskadosfjeld 267.
Bessa 170.
Bessabu 31.
Bes-SKter 65. 170.
Besserud-Tower 21.
Besstrands-Sfeter 170. 65
Besteland 5.
Besvand 170.
Kettna 371.
Billeberga 275.
Billesholm 275.
Billing 300.
Billingen Ssetre 6S.
Billingsdal 67.
Bindalsfjord 235.
Bingsfors 78.
Birkaker 73.
Birkedalen 35.
Hirkeland 1U5.
Birkelandsdalen 95.
Birkergd 435.
Birtavarra 2.57.
Biskopen, Praisten og
Klokkeren 108.
Bi?pberg 375.
Bispen 208.
Bispevei 5. 39.
Bispgarden 388.
Bitihorn 164.
Bjaa 6.
Bjaarvand 32.
Bjfeldaanses 23S.
B")irlker0 101.
Bjerangsfjord 239.
Hjerga 94.
Bjerkaker 73.
Bjcrke 199.
B'iordal 132.
Bjnreia 112.
Bjorlien 210.
Bj0berg 46.
tVi0lstad 61.
Bjaraana'sset 75.
Bi^ra.il 195 204.
I!j0rd0hi 160.
I'i0reia 43, 44. i^
M)0r-a 180.
BJ0rgen 77.
Bj0rheiinskj<vftcn 94.
Bjorkholiiien 399.
Bjdrknas 394.
Bjoi-ko 86. 352.
Bi0rktind 213.
Bj0rn 237.
Bjfirna 390.
B.i0rna;s Gaard 2-37.
B.i0rnbrathjcrg 51.
Bjornchorg 113.
Bj0rnelivkset 107.
Bj0rnefjord 101. 124.
Bj0rneklev 210.
Bj0rnerud 53.
Bj0rnestegbr8e 145.
Bj0rnestig 49.
Bj0ruevand, Lille and
Store 6.
Bj0rnhull-S peter 75.
Bjoruhyttan 369.
Bjornlunda 311.
Bj0rnstad 66.
Bj0r0 (Namsos) 234.
— (Stavanger) 101.
Bj0rsretfjeld 180.
Bj0ruinklainpen 234
Bjuf 275. 284.
Bjuraa 236.
Blaabr?edal 194.
Blaafjeld 136.
Blaafjeld-Bro 193.
Blaaflaten 60.
Blaahorn 193. 198.
Blaah0er 72.
Blaah0i 159.
Blaamanden (Bergen)117.
122.
— (Kval0) 252.
Blaaskavl 139.
Blaast0l-Dal 94.
Blakjer 78.
Blakalla 386.
Blse-sevoldbakkc 224.
Bleie 107.
Blelfjeld 28.
Bleikeu 53.
Bleian 140.
Blekinge 279.
Blek0 9.
Bleskestad 6.
Blomberg 195.
BInm,sholm 85.
Blyberg 376.
Bockholmsflund 352.
Bod 214.
Boda 313.
Boda! 132.
Bddarne 3t)l.
Boden :iit0.
Bodfjold 215.
Bodleiiakken 142.
B(.(l0 240.
Budsjii 3&J.
Bud'joedet 385.
Boon 3.
Bogge 211. 212.
Bog0 248.
Bohus 293.
Bokenas 84.
454
INDEX.
Bolaprcn 8.
Bolh0vdskard iO.
B liken 125.
Bolkesj0 28.
BoHna.s 380. 377.
Biilmen 279.
Bol.swtvand 181.
Bols0 210.
Bolslad 12.5. 144.
Bomhus 379.
Bonakas 265.
Biinaset 383.
Bonddal 199. 204.
Bondbusbi-ce 103.
Bondivand 23.
Boras 286. 292.
Boren, Lake 30G.
Borensberg 306.
Borenshult 306.
Borgasund 370.
Borgenfjord 227.
Borghamn 805.
Bdrgholm 282.
Birgisjo 386.
Borgund (Aalesundj 20J
— (La?rdal) 58.
Boris Gleb 266.
Borlange 372. 375.
Bornholm 439.
BorjJiund 216.
Borre 34
Borren^so 57.
Borup 441.
Boshaugen 97.
Bosjo Convent 278.
Bosmo 237.
Bossekop 258.
Bosvand 5.
Bothnia, Gulf of 391.
Botnedal 39.
Botnen 105.
Botnet 237.
Botnfjoid 216. 249.
Butten (Grungedal) 41.
— (Glitterdal) 68.
— (E0ldals\-and) 97.
Bottenhorgen 104.
Bottensjo 299.
Bottnjuvkamb 149.
Boxholm 308.
B0 7.
B0dal 188,
B0fjord 132.
F0fos 60.
B0gfjord 266.
P04stad 178.
B^jumsbrffi 135.
BglsiEt 219.
B0mmelfjord 100.
Bonan 379.
B0rfjeld 214.
B0rkop 445.
B0rlaug 46. 58.
I!0r0.sand 247.
HorrLnge 274.
B0r.«ivatnstindcr 241.
I'.0rte 40. 6.
l!0rteheia 40.
r.0rtevanrt 6.
l'.0rlniv.-! 45.
B0rven 107.
Bevcrvand 210.
P0via 210.
Brail tjord 32.
Brabrand 446.
Bragcrnses 24.
Hragernip.'iaas 25.
Bragcr0 23.
BraheUu.s 304.
Brakenpps 114.
Brandal 203.
Brandbv 53.
Brandvold 252.
Branstad 217.
I'.rasfjeld 266.
Brastad 84.
Bratland 97.
liratlandsdal 97.
Bratholuien 101.
Brat0 81.
Bratsbcrgklev 36.
Brattelid' i Byklc 5.
Braltiljeld 252.
Brautemo 45.
Braute.sat 203.
Briicke 381.
Brajkegg 194.
Bra'kke i JIaland 7.
— (Sognefjord) 132.
— (Strynsvand) 189.
— (Vossestranden) 129.
Brakkefjeld 190.
Breekkenipa 129.
Briimci 392.
Brpenden-Saeter 67.
Brfcndhauaen 69.
Brwndhovd 142.
Brannarp 2S6.
Eraiinberget 390.
Branii and 390.
Brannsilgen 379.
Brffiakar 163.
BrRlanda 371.
Bravik 307. 310.
Bred 442.
Bredaker 398.
Bredfond 98.
Bredheimsvand 181.
Brediksfjeld 238.
BredncCs 137.
Bredsjo 372.
Bredvand 384.
Bredvik (Eirisfiord) 211
— (Ssetersdal) 5.
Bredvik.sheia 208.
Breidablik 4. 52. 104.
Breidalscgg 192.
Breifond-llotcl 97. 42.
Breilaupa 164.
Breimaas 23.
Breinas 137.
BreiPkall 53.
Brei.st0lcn 46.
Hrwve 5.
Brekke, Gaard 129.
Brelandsfos 179.
Bremanger 176.
Brcngsnses-Sfetcr 187.
Brettesnfe,s 246.
Breumsvand 181.
Brevik 35.
Brigsdal 187.
Brigsdalsbra^ 187.
Bringe 143.
Brintbodarne 376.
Brione-Sffiter 130.
Bro 367.
Brobakken 43.
Broddbo 374.
Broddetorp 300.
Brokcfjeld 38.
Brotedal 67.
Brovik 66.
Bromsebro 282
Br0nder5lev 446.
Br0n0 235.
Br0sterud 43.
Br01tun 62. 225.
Brubr0ktindcr 247.
Brud.sbijan 3%.
Brudvik 124.
Brufos 1C3.
Brummavand 45.
Brumunddalcn 62.
Brunelid 31.
Brunflo 382.
Brunkeberg 33. 38.
Brunnback 374.
Brunne 394.
Brunneby 307.
Brunsbcrg 313.
Brunstad 198.
Brun.stadhorn 202.
Brurastolen 107.
Brurskanke 236.
Brurskarsknatte 171.
Bruse-Sseter 58.
Brustind 204.
Bryggen 183.
Brvn 60.
Buarbrse 109.
Bud 214
Buene 137.
Buganies 266.
Bukkehul 172.
Bukkelfeger 167.
Bukken 101.
Bukkenfjord 91. 99.
Bukkcnipa 184.
INDEX.
455
Bukken0 99.
liuki* 38.
liundefjord 79.
Biinut 111.
Kuvud 25.
Uiiskrediiaase 111.
I'.iisnfp.s 111.
liussesund 'JG4.
Ilustetun 1 Odde 1(:8.
IJuvand 7.
K:ivik 25'2.
By, Gaard 227.
By-Elv 227. 372.
B)ljard 371.
Bvijord 8d. 101. 117.
Bysidar-Elvlll.
Bygde-Elv 143.
Bvgdin, Lake 104.
Bygd0 17. IS. 22.
Bygland 4.
Byglandsfjord 4.
Byklestig 5.
livklum 5.
I '.Mia 73.
Ily-Sjii 312.
l;.v valla 380.
C.Tilienkrona 18G.
' •utraltind 156.
' liai-lottenberg 312. 79.
< liiirlottenlund (C'open-
hai^en) 434.
(.Ystad) 274.
Chriatiania 9.
Akers-Gaden 17.
Akor.shu.s IG.
.-\iitii|uitie.'j. Xortbcrn
13. IG.
.\rt Industrial srusoiim
15.
— Union 13.
.4sbJ{<rn.sen"s Statue 17.
J'.j0rvik 9.
Bi-.inns Statue 13.
Bygdonws Bad 1*.
Carl-Johans-Gade 12.
Charles XIV.'s Statue
IG.
Christian IV.'s Statue
12.
Coins, Cabinet of IG.
Courts of .Tustice 17.
Oust >m House 9.
Uaiupkjtikken 12.
Draiuiuensveien IS.
Dronuin{;eii 18.
Kidsvolds-Plads 13.
Kkcberg 20.
Knglish Church 11.
Enkekasse 17.
Ethnogr. iMuseuni IG
Franinii'sveieu IS.
Fro"ners;ctcr 21.
t^hristiania:
Oamle Akers Kirke 17.
St. Ilanshaugen 17.
Hulmenkollen 20.
Houiansby IG.
lIoved-Banegaard9. 12.
Uoved0 21.
Johannes-Kirke 10.
Kunstforening 13.
Library 13.
Majorstueu 20.
Masonic Lodge 13.
JIuseuui of Art 14
— of Industrial Art l.j.
— , Historical 15.
— , Norwegian 19.
Xational (Jallery 14
.St. Olafs-Kirke 17.
Oscarshall 18.
Oslo 12. 19.
Palace 16.
Post Office 10.
Kailvvay Stations 9. 12.
Savings Bank IG.
Schweigaard's Statue
13.
Sculpture Gallery 14.
Seamen's Home IG.
Skarpsuo 18.
Skillebcek 18.
Slot 16.
Steamers 9. 11.
Storthings-Bygning 13
Sfor-Torv 12.
Telegraph Office 10.
Theatres 11. 13.
Tivoli 11.
Toldbod 9.
Tordenskjold 's Statue
16.
Tostrup-Gaarden 12.
Tourist Offices 11.
Tramway 10.
Trefoldigheds-Kirke
17.
Tryvandsh^ide 91.
University 13.
VesseUs Monuni. 13.
Victoria Terrace 16.
Vikings'' Ships 13.
Vor Frelsers Gravlund
17.
Kirke 12.
VVergeland's Statue 13
Christiania Fjord 8. 21.
84.
Christ iansand 2.
Cbristiansminde 443.
Christiaussund 215.
Christianstad 27S.
Christiansten 224.
ChristineUamn 313.
Cimbrishamn 274.
Copenhagen 40.').
Academy of Art 410.
St. Alban's 419.
Alex. Newsky Chapel
41-^.
Amagertorv 417.
Amalie-Gade 4IS.
Amalienborg 418.
St. Annee-Plads 417.
Antiquities, Coll. of
41t).
Arsenal 411.
Art Hall 410.
— Museum 42lt.
Bank 407.
Botanical Garden 425.
Bied-Gade 417.
British Emba.'^sy 417.
Charlottenborg 410.
Chemical Laboratory
425.
Christiansborg 411.
Citadel 419.
Coins, Collec. of 416.
Commercial Bank 410.
Communal Hospital
425.
Court Chapel 411.
Custom House 419.
Dansk Folke-Museum
427.
Denmark Monument
420.
Diet, Uall of the 418.
Dronning Louises-Bro
425.
Dyrehave 434.
English Church 108.
419.
Episcopal Palace 41G.
Eremitage 434.
Esplanade 419.
Kthnographical Coll.
415.
Exchange 411.
Foreign' Office 410.
Forfunen 434.
FrederiksberK-Alle 427.
— Have 429.'
— Palace 429.
Frederikshavn 419.
Frederiks-Hospital 4 IS.
— Kirke 413.
Fiee Harbour 419.
Friheds-Stjatte 427.
Frue-Plads 416.
Gammeltorv 416.
Glyptothek, New 427.
— , Old 430.
(iolf Links 439.
(iiain Store House 419.
Ilalnitorv 426.
ILirbour 4(19. 419.
456
INDEX.
Copenhagen :
Holmens-Kanal 411.
— Kii'ke 411.
Hospitals 418. 42").
H0ibroPlad9 417.
Industrial Art, Mustuni
or 427.
.Termers Taarn 420.
.lesu-H.jerte-Kirke 439.
Jesus-Kirke 433.
Kirsten Pil.'^-Kllde 431.
Kj0binagergaden 417.
Knippelsbro 412.
Koniiens Nytorv 410.
Konzert-Palais 417.
Kristianshavn 412.
Landsmand.s Bank 411.
Lange Linie 419.
Law Courts 418.
Library, Royal 411.
Lvstbaadehavn 419.
Marble Church 4)8.
Markets 408.
Meteorolog. Institute
419.
Mineralog. Museum 425.
Moltke\s"'Picture Gal-
lery 417.
Katioual Bank 411.
National Museum 414.
X0rrebro 425. 434.
N0rrevold-Gaden 426.
Nyboder 418.
Nv-Carlsberg Brewery
4M.
Glvptothek 427.
Veien 430.
Ny-Gaden 416.
Nyhavn 410.
Nytorv 41G.
Observatory 425.
0rsted Park 426.
0ster-Gaden 416.
0stervold-Gaden 419.
Panoptikuiu 408.
St. Peter's 417.
Pile-AlU' 430.
Politechnic Academy
425.
Post Office 407.
Prindsens-Palais 414.
Raadhus-Plads 426.
Railway Stations 405.
427.
Rom. Cath. Chapel 418.
Rosenhorg 425.
— Have 426.
Round Tower 417.
Scientific Society 429.
Skydebaue,Kongel.429.
Sluts-Kirke 411.
S^ndermarken 430.
Statue of Absalon 417.
Copenhagen :
Statue of Andersen 426
-- of Bissen 420.
— of Caroline Amelia
426.
— of Carstens 427.
of Christian IV. 418.
— of Christian V. 410.
— of Frederick V. 418.
— ofFrederickVI.429.
— of Frederick VII.
411.
— of Gade 417.
— of Hall 43J.
— of Holberg 410.
— of Hvitfeldt 419.
— of JIarstrand 420.
— of Niels Juel 411.
— of Oehlenschliiger
410. 429.
— of 0rsted 426.
— of Saen.son 418.
— of Tordenskiold
411. •'
— of Tycho Brahe425.
Steamboats 405.
Surgeons' Hall 418.
Teknisk Skole 426.
Theatres 407. 410. 426.
Tborvaldsen Museum
412.
Thotts Palais 410.
Tivoli 408.
Toldbod 419.
Tourist Club 408.
Town Hall, New 427.
, Old 416.
Tramways 406.
Trekroner 419.
Trinity Church 417.
University 416.
— Library 417.
Vesterbro-Gade 429.
Vesterbro Passage 427.
Vestervold-Gaden 419.
Vestre Boulevard 4'i7.
Vimmelskaft 416.
Vor Frelsers Kirke 4 12.
Vor-Frue-Kirke 416.
Yacht Club 419.
Zoolog. Garden 429.
— Museum 417.
Daanofos 69.
Dagalid 43.
Daglosen 372.
Dal (Eidsvold) 60.
Dalaro 350.
Dalataarn 217.
Dalby (Skane) 274.
— (Upsala) 357.
r>ale (Dalsfjord) 178.
— (Espelaudsvand) 127.
Dale (Lvsterfjord) 143.
— (Maanelvdal) 30.
— (Osterfjord) 124.
Dalecarlia 373. 368.
Dal-Elf 372. 374. 376. 378.
Dalen (Bandaksvand) 39.
— (Foldal) 76.
— (Lvngen) 257.
— Sceter 144.
l>alevaag 124.
Dal3b0 217.
Dals-Elv 124.
Dalsfjord (S0ndfjoTd) 178.
183.
— (Valder.s) 164.
Dal.shest 178.
Dalskog 83.
Dalsland Canal 299. 371.
Danigaardsfjeld 117.
Danmark 355.
Dannemora 378.
Darbo 27.
Davik 183.
Dsemmevand 114.
Degerfors 313.
Deje 372.
Dellen, Sodra & NorrR
381.
Delsbo 381.
Demelsviken 102.
Dettern 296.
Digermulen (Tanafjovd i
263.
— (Vesteraalen) 246.
Digermulkollen 246.
Digertind 236.
Digervarde 70.
Digrena-s 108.
Dilling 80.
Dingtuna 3CS.
Disenaaen 79.
Dispen 189^.
Djefvulsklava 86.
Dj0nne 111.
Djupedal (Hedal) 45. 19J,
Djupedalsfos 4S.
Djupvand 192.
Djupvasegg 192.
Djupva-ihvttf i\)2.
DjuT-ds 375.
Dockmyr 388.
Dokka 53.
Dokkafos 155.
Dokka-Sseter 155.
Dokken 51.
Dolsten.shul 177.
Domaas 69.
Domen 264.
Domma 159. 67.
Dommeberg 303.
Domnarfvet 372.
Doiiisten 133.
Dougstad 206.
INDEX.
457
Dovre G9.
Duvrefjeld 71.
Diida Fall 383.
U)i(gerfo.s 114.
Ualefjeld 160.
Ujjnefos 194. 195.
Diifntefds 209.
DarremshovJ 218.
U0sen 143.
Doviken 388.
Diaviksfos 25.
Drage 177.
Draget 78.
Dr.-gseid 249,
D.agstina 234.
Dram men 24.
Ui'avlevand 105.
Dregeb^ 17S,
Ui-iva 72. 73. 218.
Di-iv.stuen 72.
Dronningbjer^j 19.
Drouninggaai'd 435.
Drontheiiu, see
Troudhjem.
Drotninghaug 202.
DiMttningholm 351.
Driittvikiioering ~l}3.
Dr^bak 9.
Itix^ia 77.
Hiinlierne 77.
Di-tJ.sjafos 50.
Di'vllentoen 1(35.
Diifed 385.
Diifniis 349. 375.
DiifveUeden 287.
Dukstad, Gaard 12S.
l)iil-S*ter 114.
Duma 1.53. 159.
I)niub0 159.
Diinderlandsdal 237.
Dimkehallar 302.
Diirmaalstind 256.
Dvei'ti.'ina'S 211.
Dvbvik (Ki.ldenfjovd)
242. 24S.
Dylmi 59.
Uylta-Bruk 309.
DvnnEest* 237.
Uvrdal 138.
Dyrdal.-ljeld 13S.
Dyreskard 41.
Oyrhaug.stind 15l).
Dyringeu-.S»ter 07.
Dvrnut 41.
I)yr0 2c0.
Ed 83. 395.
Kdane 313.
K(i;lngefallet 381.
Kdebiick 372.
Kdefor.-! 389. 3i)S.
Edland 40.
Kdnafo.s 108.
Ed0 215.
Edsasen 384.
Edsbei-g 355.
Kdsbordet 395.
Edaby 395.
Edfet 387.
Edsvalla 372.
Edsviken 348. 355.
Egge i V.Tatedaleii 181.
Eggedal 44.
Eggenibba 181.
Eggereid 129.
Eggesvik 241.
Eiby 442.
Kidanger "5.
— Fjord 8.
Kide (Fortundal) 154.
— (Haidaimer) 103.
— (Jloldefjord) 177. 211,
— (Oldenvand) ISO.
Eidene 93.
Kidesnut 109.
Eidet 77. 140, 230.
Eidevik 178.
Eidfjord 112.
Eidsaa 203.
Eidsberg 80.
Eidsborg 39.
Eidsbugaren 162.
Eid«dal3field 197.
Eid.selv 37.
Eid.sfjeld 43.
Eidstjord(N(ivdfjord)lS3.
— (Laxeljord) 263.
— (Sognet'jord) 140.
Eidsfos 31. 37. 181.
Eids0ren 211. 217.
Eidsskog 79.
Eidsvaag 211.
Eidsvand (F(irtuiulal)15S
197.
— (Tiondbjemsfiii'd) 22S,
F.id.svuld 60.
Kiei'dal 141.
Eikedal, Gaard 105.
Eikefjord (Sngnefjord)
132.
— (S0ndyord) 176.
Eikisdalsvand 213.
Eiksreter 155.
Eilandt 40.
iMiiieUcia 47.
Kina 53.
Einabu 71.
Eiiiavaud 53.
Einingeviken iDl.
Einswtfjeld ill.
Eirisfjord 212.
Eiteraa 237.
Eitrlieim 1l8.
Eitnses 108.
Eivindvik 131.
Ekeberg 20.
Kkelidb0l 41.
Ekensberg 351.
Ekernvand 27.
Kker0 91. 352.
Ekersund 90.
Ekeskog 94.
Ekoln 357.
Ekolsund 367.
Ekre 46.
Kksjii 282.
Eksund 310.
EktriiskSSO.
Eldal 134.
Eldal30ren 134.
Eldegaard 149.
Eldeholt 149.
Elden 227.
Eldre-Vand 40.
Eldsberga 285.
Elt'karleby 379.
Klfkarleo 378
Elfsborg 80.
Elfsby 3£0.
Elfsjo 312. 350.
Elfsuabben 350.
Elgaras 301.
Elgafjord 312.
Elgenaafos 198.
Elgei-sheia 98.
Eli 219.
EljarDEes 9.
Ellefsmoen 47.
EUiDgib/a 01.
EUingsgaaid 204.
Elnibult 278.
Elveljord SO.
Elvegaard 249.
Elvenses 260.
Elversli0i 217.
Elverum 74.
Elve-Sseter 159.
Embleim 202.
Euimaboda 280.
Eiiafoi-.s 385.
Enare-Trask 266.
Enerbougeu 177.
Engelbrektsboliu 370.
Engelbohu 285.
Engelbolmshamu 235,
Engel0 248.
Kngelsberg 367.
Engelva;r 248.
Engen i Steven 74.
Enger 23.
Engerodden 51.
Enger-Vand 22.
Engletjeld 102.
Engum 157.
Enborna 352.
I'^nkiiping 307.
Euua 239.
Enrum 434.
Eiistad-Sopter 7tl.
458
INDEX.
Erdal (Eidfjord) HI.
— (SIryusvand) 190. 146
ICi-dalsbrw 146. 190.
Ki-fjord 95.
Krik.s]und 386.
Krikssund 356.
Krikstad 371.
Kvlandsgaard 31.
Erlungen, Lake £03.
KrtvaagiEf 215.
El-valla 369. 308. 313.
Esbjerg 449.
Eskilstuna 370. 311.
Eslof 278.
Esp 219.
Espelandsfos 110. 98.
Espelandavand 127.
Espen 61. lOS.
Esroin, Lake 437.
Kssefjord 133.
Essingen, Lilla & Stora
351
Etna-Elv 53. 54.
Kfne 100.
Ev anger 125.
Evedal 280.
Evelsfunnhei 217.
Evenbuvand 41.
Evje 4.
Exingdal 132.
Faaberg G3.
— , Gaai-d 146.
Faabergstj2rl-Scetcri46.67.
Faaborg 443.
Faavaug 63.
Fadna-s 12.5. 132.
Fagei-as 313.
Fagerbotteiivand 192.
Fagerdal 144.
Fagerb^i Sanatorium 64.
Fagerli 242.
FugeruEes (Ofotenfim-d)
249. ^
— (Valders) 55.
F"'agersletnip 178.
Fagersta 368.
Fagerstrand 30.
Fald 53.
Faldfjeld 247.
Fale 218.
Faleide 184.
Falerum 310.
Falkenberg 280.
Falketind 162.
Falkoping-Ranten 300.
Falstei- 441.
Falsterbo 274.
Falun 373. 377.
Fanaraak 156. 160.
Fanefjord 101. 210.
¥a.u0 449.
Funtoft 123.
Fantofia 275.
Fardal 136. 149.
FavLsvand 35.
Farna-s 149.
Farodden 31.
Far.stavik 350.
Farsund 90.
Farsundebro 179.
Fa-uin 435.
Farviilden 31.
Faslefos 55.
Fastdalstind 256.
Fau.ske 46 242.
Faxe Klf 339.
Faxtind 2.50.
Fie for 64.
Fa-)lefjeld 182.
Fa-mund-Sja 77. 376.
Fterdei-l'yr 8.
Fserfiirkampen 168.
Fiirjestaden 282.
Fiissberg 287.
Fffist0 200.
Fafangen 349.
Farosund 366.
Fedde 90.
Feigumsfos 143
Feiring, Bay of Gl.
Fejos J36.
Felden 183.
Fellingsbro 369.
Feui.sj0en 83.
FennebuQord 43.
Festa 218.
Fet 143.
Fetsund 78.
Fibelstad-Haugen 197.
Fikkan 43.
Fiksensund lU5.
Filipstad 372.
Fillefjeld 57.
Fillcfjeldsvand 58.
Fillingsvand 70.
Finimersta 299.
Fimreite 136.
Find0 94.
Fiueidet 242.
Fjnfjord 251.
Finlials 173.
Finja, Lake 284.
Finkirke, Store & Lille
263.
Finknafjeld 236.
Finkongkjeilen 263.
Finkrokeu 255.
Finiierudja 301.
Finn for.s 396.
Fin.sa;t 214.
Finsliyttan 372.
Finsna's 251.
Fin.spong 310.
Firdafylke 176.
Fiskaaen 94.
Fiskebiickskll 85.
Fi3keba:-k 435.
Fiskeby 310.
Fisketjern-Sffiter 48.
Fiskuiuf().s 228.
Flskumvand 27.
Fisterfjord 94.
Fitjeland 94.
Fiva, Gaard 208.
Fivelland t'5.
Fjaagesund 38.
Fjallnoes 481.
Fjiiderliolmarue 349.
I'jallfors 3£0.
vyiAs 287.
FjiPre 100.
Fjierland 134.
Fjrerlandsfjord 134.
Fjeldheim 51.
FJeldsli-Saiter 67. 144.
Fjeldvidde 45.
Fjeldvik 234.
Fjellbacka 85.
Fi0.sanger 123.
Fi0seide 217.
l-jngesta 370.
Flaa 45
Flaam 139.
Flaam,sdal 139.
Flaarenden 5.
Flaate 201.
Flaatebunut 40.
FlaatUyl 41. 6.
Flaavand 38.
Flagan-Sjii 312.
Flagsund 248
Flakstad0 245.
Fiaksvand 7.
Flani^stad 7.
Flasnses 228.
Flatdal 32.
Flateb0, Gaard lOG.
Flateb^g.jel 106.
Flatelaud 5.
Flatmark 209.
Fliidie 275.
Flse^efos 97.
Flaten, Lake 311.
Fleina 240.
Flekh0i 67.
Flekkefjord 90.
Flekken 168.
Flekker0 3.
Flemmen 216.
Flen 311. 371.
Flenjanaase 139.
Flenje-Egg 139.
^ensburg 442.
Flesberg 43.
Fle.sene 246.
Flesje 133.
Fleskedals Sa-tre 151.
Fli.sbv 3US.
INDEX.
459
Flisen 79.
Flo 189.
Fioda 299.
Floenvnnd 186
Flofjcld 189. 105.
Flohaug 144.
Floren 226.
Florjj 176.
Fll)-,'^;^tc^, JWvrc&Nedre
195.
Flot 228.
Flnttsund 357.
Flerien 122
FUiifjcld (Trom.'ip) 25i.
— (Berj^en) 117.
Fl«(latiiid 213.
Fliiberg .03.
Flvdal 193.
Flydal-djuv If3. 19a.
Flydalshorn 193.
Flyn 389.
F'odnsi's 141.
Fodvang (-3.
Fogelo 351.
Foiieltta 305 303.
iMKlavik 300.
iwi-iiff 04.
[■n.^saa 71.
I'n-.stuen 71.
Fo^stuh0 72.
Folda 72.
F.ildal G4. 76. 219.
F..!(lpnfjord (Bod**) 248.
— (Nam.'sfis) 234.
FoldtiT 94.
Fdlgefond lOl. 110.
F..lle.stii(ldal 203.
Fnl.'ij^ 28.
Fnlven 190.
iMiiulalsbrn- 239.
Fond^Ia 145
Kiineklev 4.
FunlnisfjiM 51.
Fiinnenibba 217.
Fo'isn;c.« 225.
Fn,,s(en 225.
lormo 228
I'^ormofo."! 227.
I i.rindkainiieii 69.
I'ornfcsbrif 190.
Kiimwsdal 256.
1 ornastind 255.
I nrra 226.
Fiirradal 77.
Fors 380. 387.
Forsa 381.
Forsastrom 310.
Forsbacka 378.
Forserum 301.
Forshcm 297.
Forsmobro 389.
Forsvik 299.
Fortun i l.y.<;tei' 151.
Fovtundal 151.
Fortundal,sbrR< 67. 151.
ForUin>;aldcr 151.
F.)rvik 2;j;6
Fosbakkcn 73.
Fosbraaten 55.
Fo.sdal 149.
F'lisen 233.
Fosbcim 55. 46. 66.
— Sa>ler 46.
Fo.sbeimsfos 181.
Fo.<;land.sosen 231.
Fdsli Hotel 112.
Fosmoen 252.
Fosnffis 189.
Fosiuvsbra- 189.
Fossaa 64.
Fossand 93.
Fosse 101. 12.5.
Fossegaarden 63.
Fo.s.'sen 145. 242.
Fosse-Sfpter 144 154.
Fossland 228.
FOS.SO 30.
Fo.s.sumvand 227.
F^glevand 181.
Forde (FOTdcfjord) liQ.
— (jer.stefjoi-d) 199.
F0rdefjord 179.
F0rdenip 179.
F0rresvik 99.
Forslof 255.
Frafjord 94.
FramnfPS 133.
Framrusthovd C8
Framvusf-SsEter 68.
Frandefors 371.
Friinsta 386.
Frano 394.
Freden.sborR 4.37.
Freilcricia 442.
Frederikshorg {Cupen-
hagen) 435.
Frederik.sdal 435.
Frederikshavn 447.
Frederik«va>rk 435.
Fred0 216.
Fredrikfori 381.
Fredriksbon; tS.
Fredriksdar286.
Fredrlkshald 81. 84.
Fredrikstad 80.
Fredriksvand 67.
Fredrik.svn'i-n 8.
Freibottenfjeld 141.
Frengstad 73.
Fresvik (Sognefjord) 137,
— (S0rfjord) 108.
Frcsviksbrffi 136. 137.
Fretheim 139. 1.30.
Frifirsfjctrd 8 35.
Friiseiiborg 446.
Friisvold 66.
Friken 151.
Frille,s5.s 287.
Frinnavyd 308.
Fritsla 2S6.
Frlts0 35.
Frogner 60.
Frogncr.SfRlor 2L
Frostisen 249.
Fro.stviken 389.
Fr0i-jCy 176.
Fr^ifjord 176.
Frgiscfos .195.
Fr^isniv;; 4.
Fr^landsdal 1C5.
Fr0ningen, Indre & Ytre
140.
Frosii .382.
Frovi 369. 308.
Fnidalsbi-pe 1.37.
Fnihdlmen 260.
Frustuna.'ijo 311.
Frya 64.
F^rydenlund 54.
Frvken Lakes 313.
FryksRs 377.
Fryk.sta 313.
Fu 377.
Fuglem 225.
Fuglen 215.
F'uglesteg, Gaard 149.
Fuglnses 259.
Fugl0 240. 255.
Fugl0sund 255.
FuglSEctfjord 132.
Fiinen 441. '
Furebergsfos 103.
Fures0 435.
FurncBsfjord 61.
Furnvik 379.
Fursfet-ScTter 216.
FuruRrundet 396.
Furuheim (54.
Funilund 242. 275.
Furunipa 133.
Furusund 3L0.
Fuske 242.
Futesprang 143.
FyrisS 355. 357. 3T8.
Fyrisvand 39.
Fys.sefos 137.
Gaalaa 168.
Gaapaspigger 169.
Gaa.«ellaa 4.
Gaashopen 259.
Galdebergffos 165.
Galdcbergstind 165.
Galderne 59. 158.
(;aldh0er 157.
(Jialdb0pig 157. 158. 172.
G,alg0ften 2-8.
Gallcberg 3i.
Galmiroi 242.
460
INDEX.
Gallci-iid 79.
Oaltcsuiid 7.
Gamla Upsa.la361. 378.
Gaoimalkroiipa 377.
Gammelstad 391.
Gamvik 263.
Gangdalskavl 115.
Gangsj? 183.
Garberg i Meldalen 219.
Gardmo G6.
Garen 44.
Gargiastue 267.
Garli 74.
Garnio 63.
Garnees 124. 226.
Games 384.
Garnsvik 355.
Garsas 377
Garshammer-S»eter 104.
Garthus 51.
Gartland 228.
Gaukhci-Vand 5.
Gaupar, Gaa-d 157.
Gaupnefjord 143. 144.
Gausdal 63.
Gausdalsfo3 196.
Gausnses 201.
Gausta 32. 30.
Gautbu-Sfeler 217.
Gautistad SO. 20.
GavlQord 247.
Gaddede 389.
Gallfi 382.
Galo 350.
GSsevadholm 287.
Gaso 85.
Gefle 379.
Gefsjo 385.
Geijersdal 372.
Geimo Javre 258.
Geiranger 193.
Geiranger Fjord 195.
Gellivara 401. 249.
— Dundret 401.
Gemla 279.
Genarp 275.
Genevad 285.
Gestrikland 380.
Gesundabera; 376.
Getinge 586?
Gettero 287.
GhiiTajas-Tjokk(i 251.
Gibostad 251.
Gib^en 31.
Gildeskaal 240.
Gildreskreden 143.
Gilleleie 439.
Gima 386.
Gimmes tad 184.
Gimnees 216.
Gims0 36.
Gimsiaf.stram 245.
Gisebo 303.
Gi.siia 73.
Gissund 218.
Gistad 309.
Gjedser 441.
Gjegnabrre 183.
Gjegnet 183.
Gjeilo 47.
Gjeitegg 137.
Gieitervggen 133.
Gjeitfjeld 224. 228.
G.jeitfjeldtind 195.
Gjeitgaljartind 246.
Gjcilh.irn 202.
Gjeitli/ar 166.
Gjeitbus 149. 25.
Gjeitsdal 145.
Gjeif.siden 214.
Gjeldedalstind 150.
Gjelle, Gaard 149.
Gjcllumvand 23.
Gjemstadstr/?ni 242.
Gjende, Lake 166.
Gjendebod 166. 165.
Gjendem.sfjeld 214.
Gjendeosen 169.
Gjendesheim 169.
Gjendetunge 166. 167.
Gjentofte 166. 167.
Gjerdc (Uardanger) 104.
— (Oldendal) 1S6.
Gjerdeaxele 186.
Gjerdet 145.
Gjerkelandscgg 195.
Gjermundbro 26.
Gjermundntcs 206.
Gjermundshavn 103.
GjersEctvatn 212.
Gjerlvand 175.
Gjertvasbfen 174.
Gjeitvasbra! 175.
Gjerf vastind 152. 156. 175.
Gjessingen-Sfeter 155.
Gjesvser 261.
Gjetenyk 182.
Gjetsj0 43.
Gjia'dingsbsek 67.
Gj0ra 218.
Gi0rven 188.
Gj0se 93.
Gj0vik (Mj0.sen) 62 53.
— (Ulfsfjord) 255.
Gjul 216.
Gjuratind 208.
GJUVSJ0 31.
Glaama 157.
Glaamsdalsfu.s 171.
Glafsfjord 312. 372.
Glan, Lake 310.
Glimakra 278.
GlimSn 357.
Glimmingehu.s 274
Glim,<!dal 157.
Glipsfjeld 141.
Glilr.T 173.
Glittcrct-'g 191.
Glitterheim 173.
GHltcrh0 68.
Glittertind 173.
Glomfjord 239.
Glommen (river) 74. 78.
79. 80.
Gloinsnfes 189.
Gloppen 184.
Gloppenfjord 184.
Gloplind 17(1.
Glostrup 440.
Gncsta 311.
Goalsevarre 256.
Goa(zagai,?e 255.
GudegSrd 308 .
God0 177. 241.
God0strom 241.
G()d0sund 101.
Godtlandsmyr 76.
Gog.s0re 212. 213.
Gogstad 34.
Gokkerdal 173.
Gokra 173.
Gokraskard 173.
Goks0ira 212.
n,d 45.
Golaa Sanatorium 64.
Golborre 256.
Golsbakker 45.
Goniis 369.
Gorfsvingane 98.
Gorsten 214.
Gotenburg 287.
Gotland 361.
Gotopfjeld 134.
Gottne 390.
Gorviiln 3.55.
Gossater 300.
Gota Canal 298. 309. etc.
— Elf 86. 289. 293. etc.
Goteborg 287.
Graafjeld 132.
Graakallen 224.
Graamandsheia 3.
Graanaase, Store 141.
Graasiden 125.
Graddis 238.
Grafverna 85.
Grafversfor.s 311.
Gran 53.
Grande 196.
Graneheim 5.
Graneimfjiu'd 55.
Graninge 3S4.
Granshei-red 29.
Granudden 399.
Granvim 51.
Gra.sdal 190.
Grasdalsbrsc 190.
Grasdalsegg 192.
Gratangenfjord 250.
INDEX.
461
Graupe 169.
Gi-authorn 195.
Gi-avaune 218.
Gravdal (Bergen) 123.
— (.Intunheim) 152. 251.
Gravdefos 209.
Gravchal.^ 115. 13U.
Graven! 218.
Gravenfjord 106.
Gravcn.svand 106. 127.
Gravfjord 250.
Gravt'os 25.
Griinsesberg 369. 372.
GrJisherg 372.
Grfp.shnlm 9.
GrJPsholmen 250.
Greaker 80.
Grcbbesfad 85.
Grebstad 181.
Greby 85.
Gredung 146. tOO.
Grefsen 52.
Grefvie 285.
Grenen 448.
Grenna 304.
Gretastue 47.
r,iibs0 435.
I'.rillby 367.
I ; rimedalen 6.
< iriuicnvand 124.
Krinicslad 106. 126.
liriino 107.
I 'riuiP^igjel 59.
(Irira.stad 7.
Ci-iiiislorp 279.
• u-indaheini 56.
firindalsnibba 193.
lii-indefjcld 46. 56.
(u-ip 21.5.
( : ripenlierg 308.
Cripsholm 352.
(li-isilctja'rn 167.
r, rjota 173.
II i-'odaas 194.
I Irons 228.
(Srorud GO.
Orotaafjeld 67.
Ordtland 12S.
Oiotlid 191.
iirotJidsvand 68.
(Irovebne 180.
Grovene 4.
Or^dal 218.
6r0nbakken 72.
(irKindal 70. 1.54. 180.
<;rMnil0la 46.
Gr)(<no3t0l-Saiter 49.
Gmnin;; i3l. 180.
Grffnlien, Gaard 237.
Gr0nnebcrg 166.
Gr0nnc^kiedbrm 115.
Or0nii( 239.
Gr^nsatre 70.
(Jvfiinsdal 110.
Gvonskulle 279.
Gr^tdalstinder 109. 204.
art(t0 248.
Gratsund 254.
GrfTtlingbratten 70.
Gr0vdal 208.
Grua 53.
Giums 372.
Grundfjord 249.
Grunding.sdal 32.
Grundset 75.
Giundskallcn 24!j.
Grundsund 85.
Grungedal 31. 40.
Grut 73.
Grycksbo 377.
Gryten 207.
Grytereidsnib 186.
Gryf0 250.
Grytthyttehed 372.
Gubbelaadal 238.
Gudaa 228.
GudfBple 133.
Gudbi-and.sdal 62.
Gudbrandsgaard 48.
Gudvangen 138.
Gula (Sognefjord) 178.
— {Trondhjemsl'jord)
74. 77.
Gulbraa 132.
Guldhav 251.
Guldholmcn 265.
Guldsmed.shyttan 369.
Gulefos 78.
Gulekop 194.
Gulenfjord 131. 170.
Gulfjeld 124.
ullbergs Vas9 293.
Gullbrandstorp 286.
(Uillholmen 85.
(tullmarsfjord 85.
GnlLspSng 313.
Oulsatdal 136.
Gulskiig 25.
Gulsvik 44.
Gunaviken 177.
Gunnai-storp 281.
Gunvorddal 137.
Gunvordsbrse 136.
Gunlacifirro 252.
Guridals-SiPtre 150. 151.
Gurifjeld 40.
Gursk0 177.
(jselu.siaas 211.
Gnsby 369.
Gustal'sberg (.Stuckhnlui)
350.
(I'ddcvalla) 85.
Gustaf3 Tuna 375.
Gutvik 235.
iGylsboda 279.
Gvranfisen 51.
Gyrlhaug 23. 25.
Gysinga 374.
Haagaar 53.
Haahjem 186.
Haajen 259.
Haakedal 30.
Haakeiuestjeld 30.
Haa]and.soscn 96.
Hayndstad 219.
Haa-0 9.
Haarel'os 97.
Ilaarsfad 73.
Habo 303.
Hadeland 26.
Hader.sleben 412.
Hadsel 247.
Had.steen 446.
Hafstjord 91.
Hafslovand 142.
Haga (Gbammen) 78.
— (Stockholm) 348.
Hagastrom 378.
Hag by 282.
Hagestad 115.
Hagfors 372.
Hakedal 53.
Halbrandst'os 170.
Hald 450.
Haldi 258.
Ha]land 285.
Hallandsfo.s 5.
Halleberg 290.
Hallen 383.
Ilallingdal 45. 46.
Ilallin-.skarv 47.
lialling.skeiet, 49. 130.
Ilallsbcrg 301. 308. 370.
Haliiistad 285.
Ilaliiebottner 48.
Halsen0 100. 236.
llamar 61.
Ilauiburg 443.
Hamlegi-0vand 106. 125.
Hammarby 355.
Hammel 446.
Hammeren 439.
Hammerfest 259.
HammernR:s 237.
Hammer0 248.
Uammersffittinder 202.
Hammers b0en 43. 47.
Hammervand 226.
Ham?a 192.
HanncJ 215.
Handol Fall 385.
Haudspikje 67.
Hanekamb 106.
llancnip 124.
Hane.stad 75.
Haiik0 8.
Hannfes0 238
Haparanda 101.
462
INDEX.
Harads 398.
Harald,shaug 09.
HarbaMbrsc 144.
Hardant;er Fjord K'l.
— J0kul 114.
— Vidda 31. 43. 46. 111.
Hardbak 233.
Ilardbakke 72.
Ilardeg-Sspter 70.
Harefos 260.
Hareide 203.
Ilareidland 17?. 203.
Ilarcstuvand 53.
IlarcvcOdsriipa 134.
Hargsbamn ,378.
Haril.stad 16'J.
Harna.s 379.
Ilarpcfos.'^en 64.
Harplinge 2'-*6.
Harsprans 39'J.
Harstad 250.
Harstensnnd 85.
Haslemo 5
IIasselfi>rs 314.
Hastabers 372.
Hasvik 259.
Hatten 257.
Hatteng 252. 257.
Hatviken 124.
Haugaasiyel 145.
Haugenaa.se 145.
Ilaugene (Siignefjord)141.
Haugen«rset 145.
Haugesund 99.
Haugfos 187.
Haugnioelen 142.
Haugnaase 141.
Haugnres 236.
Haugs 183.
Haugsfos 25.
Haugsund 25.
Haugum 228.
Haukaas 105.
Haukabiikken 242.
Haukedal 178. 180.
Haukedalsvand 180.
Haukeland 123. 124.
Haukeli Hotel 40.
Haiikeli-Sspter 41.
Haus 121. 183.
Hausadn 145.
Hausafjeld 140.
Havnen 215.
Tlavnevik 211.
Havnin£;ber(i 26i.
Havnuccs 183. 252.
Havn0 236.
Havnvik 250.
Hav0 260.
Havshedfos 154.
Hackeberga 275.
Hppg 68. 46.
Heegeland 4.
Hfegerland 97.
IliigeMten 351.
Mfeggc(JfrstreSlidre) 164.
HfPggefjnrd 163.
Hfcpgona'^ Hotel 104.
Iliiggvik 395.
Hrt'ghcimsljcld 181.
Ilfeg.st0il 5.
Mreksfjeld 29.
IliilHngsa 389.
llallnas 390.
llfcstad 178.
Ha,stbn 380.
llastholmen 30i.
Ilastveda 278.
ILatVcrud 299.
Hakafot 389.
Hilkontnrp 292. 296.
HilHand 3S4.
liailsta 371.
Ilasjii 388.
Hatunaholm 356.
Heberg 286.
Heby 374.
Hed.al (.Spiiilleii) 51.
Hedalen 64.
Iledalsfjord 164.
Hedalsmuen 169.
Hedemarken 61. 74.
Hcdemora 374.
Heden 390.
Meden.sberg 367.
Hednoret 390.
Hedstensmit 98.
Keen 26.
Hegg, Gaard 129.
Hetige, Gaard 236.
Heggedal 23.
Heggeim 219.
Heggen 25.
Heggesf/?! 33. 31.
Heggardalstind 200.
Hegre 226.
Heilhorne 235.
Hellstad 235.
Heilstugegg 192.
Heilstugubff 172.
Heilstuguvand 191.
Heimdal 78. 219.
Heimdalsvand 68.
Heistad 35.
Heldal 124.
Helevand 46.
Helgasjo 279.
Helgedal 156. 175.
Helgeland 235.
Helgenses 96.
Kelgheim 180.
Helg0 62.
Helgum 389.
Hell 226.
Helle (NumedalJ 43.
Hellebsek 439.
Hellefors 372.
Hellefor.snas 371.
Hellefos 25.
Hellekis 297. 298.
Hellemofjord 219.
Hellcrfos 171.
HeHcrtiscrn 171.
Hcllcriip 434.
Ilellesfeterbi-fc 187.
Hellesylt 195.
Helligdomsklipper 439.
Helsingbni-g 283. 275.
Ilelsinge 435.
Ilclsingland .379. 380.
Ilelsing0r 438.
Helsingvand 46.
Helsobrunn 279.
Helvetesfoa 143.
Helvik 100.
Hemmestveit 33.
Hemna-g 237.
Hemrc 138.
Hemse 366.
Hemsedal 45.
ncm,sil 45.
Hon 208.
Henjum 136.
Ilennan 3S1.
Henning.svKT 246.
Henriksdal 349.
Ilerand 106.
Herdal 197.
Hereid 149.
Hermano 85.
Hermansvffirk 136.
Hernosand .392.
Her0(Hardanger) 100.102.
— (S0ndm0i-e) 177.
Herre 126.
HeiTCvand IGO.
Herrhult 372. 377.
Herrljunga 300.
Hesselby 355.
Hessen 177.
Hessleholm 278.
Hestbrsepigge 158. 67.
Hcstebrro 143.
Hesteklevfos 98.
Hesten 203.
Hesthammer IOj.
Hestholmen 211.
Hestmaiid0 239.
Hestnsesfos 138.
Hestnpes0ren 184.
Hestvolden 161.
Hetlenas 115.
Hetosrlen, Lake 389.
Hidingebro 370.
Hietaniemi 404.
Higriilatind 246.
Hilda! 110.
Hildebalsen 184.
Hillerb0i 152.
INDEX.
463
lUller^d 4:1").
Uilk'slad 142. 34.
Ilimin'.!en '29. 30.
Jlirale 2SG.
fliiuiiieltinder 24D.
Hindby 274.
Hindflv no.
Hind0"246. 249.
Ilindsseter 65.
Hira 75.
Hirsdal 25.
Hisfjord 104.
His0 7.
Hitterdal 29.
Hitterdals Vand 31.
llitter-Elv 76.
llitteren 215.
Hjaafosser 94.
Ujoelmodal 113.
Hjseidal 32.
Hjtersj0 32.
Hjiierto 248.
lljelle 189.
Ujellebotn 227.
Hjelledal 68.
UjelleUydna 189.
Hjell0 80. 9.
Hjellum 74.
lljeliiiare, Lake 370.
Hjelnieland 94.
Hjelm** 2t6.
Hjelms0 2lJ0.
lljelset 211. 210.
Hjei-pen 383.
Hjerpestrom 383.
Iljeitdal, see Hja-i-dal.
Hjertnses 34.
Hjo 30O. 305.
H.jorteskar 194.
Hj0rring 447.
Hjt(i-"ndtjiird , .<ee J0T-
undl'jord.
llj<i<.seufj()rd 94.
Iluaasniliha 218.
Hobro 417.
Hobuiji c02. 3C6.
Hodu-S*ter 139.
Hodnaberb' 106.
Hudn.snipe 139.
Hoel, Uaard 73.
Hoem 213, 216.
Hof, Gaard 134.
Hofors 377.
Hofsfos 26.
Hofslund 136.
Hofsnibba 217.
Hog^a 38.
ILigrending 137.
Hoiheim 143.
Hokual'jeld 63.
lloksfad 225.
Hoi (Hallinsdal) 4S
Uulaaker 70.
ilulan.bfjovd 239.
Hdlaliiuler 67.
Il.ilavedeii 307.
H.dba'k 441.
Holbu-Steter 217.
Holden 37.
Hule 193. 208.
Holefos 196.
llolgruten 59.
HollEendernoes 251.
Holmberget 225.
Holmedal 178.
Holuien (Nordfjord) 201,
— (Stavanger) 93.
Holmen-Sceter 49.
Holmenkollen 20.
Holmenut 42.
Holmestrand 34.
Holme-Vand 134.
Iliiliiui 395.
Ibilm.suud 895.
ilolm.sveden 380.
Holuklump 228.
llulsfet 70.
llolsen 180.
Hol3fjord(Hallmgdal)48.
(Tyrifjord) 22.
lloltaalen 77.
Holte (DenmarkJ 435.
— i Draugedal 7.
Molten 140.
HoUslunga 286.
Molvik 31.
Homme i Treungen 38.
Honimelvik 226.
Hompedalskuleu 145.
Hondalsnut 126.
Honningsvaag 262.
Hop 124.
Hopen 249.
Hoperstad 132.
Hopseid 263.
llorgheim 209.
Horken 139.
Horn 73. 218. 309.
lIornUsLk 439.
Hornborgasju 300.
Hovndal 57. 380.
llornelen 176.
Hoiuesund 4.
Iloi-nindal 194.
Hornindalsrokken 194.
Horuiiidalsvand 183. 194.
Hornnres 4.
Iloi-n0 264.
Horns 352.
Hornsnakk 191.
llorn.sundstind 2(j9.
Horntind 57.
Horpedalen 135.
Horre 97.
Hon-ebroekkene 97.
Hoi-reLei 42. 98.
Hor.<;ens 445.
Ilor.ievlk 178. 134.
lloi-len 8. 34. 158.
lloi-tskarmo 235.
tloi-unger 155. 151.
Hou 440.
Hougsrud, Gaavd 51.
Hougsund 25.
Hov 53. 77.
Hovde 6i.
Hove, Gaard (Gudbr.)64.
— (Slyngsfjoid) 201.
— (Viks^ren) 132.
— (Stadtland) 177.
Hoved0 9. 21.
Hovin (Ouldal) 78.
— (Tinsj0) 30.
Hovland 108.
IWde-Sreter 43.
llotVen 389.
H0gabro 139.
Ht»gan-Aa.s CO.
H/zrganaase 141.
Hoganiis 285.
H0gdebrattet 171.
H0geh0i 178.
H^gerbottenvand 07.
H0gevarde 44.
H0gfield 51.
Hogibrs 367.
H0gfos 38.
HOgkulle 298.
Hogrond 75.
Hjgrgsfjord 93.
IIog.«jo 301. 393.
Hiigsrum 282.
H0gstuel0t'te 167.
H0gvagel 171.
ll0ida!.srao 33. 38.
H0idalvand 159.
Il0ibolm,stinder 236.
ll0iskar.sn\it 139.
H0isluv 450.
H0islakka 105. 100.
H0i,stulen 17L.
H0itind 241.
H0jaas 26.
ll0jangst'ioi-d 132.
Hojea 276.
llokedalen 83.
H0I, Gaard 113.
H0land 228.
ll0ldeknatten 52.
Il0le 93.
H0leraa 51.
Il0le8lid 93.
H0ljabakken UO.
H0lland.sfo3 95.
il0nelo.s 26.
H0n3ene 137.
Hiir 278.
lliirby 278.
lliirdafvlke 131.
464
INDEX.
Hcirk 369.
Horken, Norra &. Siidra
372.
Ilurningsholm 307.
Hiirnsjo 390.
lltjrsand 74.
Htfvelfjord 48.
H0vik 22.
Havringen-Steter 69.
Huddinge 312.
Hudiksvall 392.
Hugakolle 56.
Huglen 238.
Huldrefoa 180.
Hultsfred 282.
Humlebffik 435.
Hummelfjeld 76.
Hummerberg 8.
Hun 228.
Hundebunden 80.
ilundefos 97.
Hundeidvig 201). 202.
HQnder 63.
Hundorp 64.
Hunds-Elv 53.
Hundsendvand 46.
Hundsiossen 4.
Hunds)0 71.
Hundskammer, Gaard
143.
Ilunds0r 104.
Hundvaag0 99.
Hundvik.sfjord 184.
Hunn 62.
riunneberg 296.
Hunnei'fo.s 63.
Huntorpe, Gaard 64.
Huvum 56.
Uusaby 293.
Husa 383. 3S4.
Husbyfjiil 3i36.
Musdal 107.
HusebK, Gaard 136.
Husntes 100.
Husqvarua 303.
Hustad. 204.
Hustadnas 199.
Husuin (Lairdal) 59.
— (Sweden) 395.
Hvalen 266,
Hva]0er 84.
Hvalstad 23.
Hvellinge 274.
liven 435.
Hverve 80.
Hvideseid 33. 38.
Hvidesj0 38.
llvidh^fd 56.
Hvitingfos 28
Hvi(ings0 91. 99.
Hvitkua 212.
Hvbo 381.
Hvbv 275.
Hyen 184.
Hv en fjord 184.
Hvlen 95,
HvlIakl0v 115. 127.
Hylland 138.
Hvlland.sfos 33.
HvUeslad 5.
Hylsdal 95.
Hylsfjord 96.
Hylsskav 95. 97.
Hynsjo 377.
Ibestad 250.
Ice Fjord 269.
Idefjord 81. 84.
Igla 74.
Ildjarnstad 45. 51.
Ilfas 159.
Useng 74.
llvand 154. 175.
Ilvasnaasi 175.
Indal 387.
Indals-Elf 383, 387. 388.
Inderdal 217.
Indfjord 207.
Indre Dale 133,
— Eide 197.
— Fr0ningen 14tl.
— Haugen 194,
— Ivvar^ 239,
— Samlen 106,
— Saude 95.
— Sulen 175.
— Vigten 234.
— Yri 186.
Indste-Sseter 48.
Indviken 184.
Ing0 260.
Inlandet 215.
luset 73.
In.'fjcin 375.
Invikfjord 184.
Isa-Elv 208.
Isberg 108.
I.se 80.
latjord (Nordfjurd) I.S3,
-- (Roiusdalsfjoid) 207,
- (.Spitzbei'gen) 269.
laUaug, Store and Ve.tle
113.
Isidal 22,
Lstad 211. 219.
Isterdal 208.
l.sterfo,s 201.
Istinder 255.
Isvand 384.
Iveland 4.
Jaastad lU7.
.lacobs-Elv 266.
.facobse]v,s-Kii|iel 266
.ladki 259,
.lagla 199,
.lakobakkadn 135.
Jakob.iberg 367.
.lamsgaard i Vinje 31. 33.
ilaren 53.
Jarfjordbunden 266.
Jarlsberg 34.
Jaurikaskaluokta 403.
Jiider 371.
Jaderen 90.
Jiiders Bruk 369.
Jsegervand 255.
Jffigervand.stinder 255,
Joeggevarre 257.
J8els0 95.
Jiirbo 380.
Jarnafjavd 312.
Jeilo 43.
Jelle 189.
J else 95.
Jemtland 381.
Jen-Elv 73.
Jens void 77.
Jerfso 380.
Jerfva 355.
.Terkin 72. 04,
.lerna 311.
.Jerngruben 29.
Jernmolle 286.
Jernvirke 286.
Jersingnaasi 164.
.Tertind 250^
Jesijavre 258.
Jesjokk 258.
Jesnes 62.
Jes^uui 60.
Jetta 69.
Joberg 35.
.lockmock 398.
Jodkajavre 258.
.louifruland 7.
.lonansps 105.
Jondal (Hardanger) l(l5.
— (Kong.sberg) 28.
.loudalsbra' 106,
.lonsered 299.
Jon.sknat, 28.
Jora 217.
Joranger 143.
.lordal (Odde) 109.
— (Stalheim) 129,
^ fSundalsfjord) 217.
.loi-dalsnut 109. 129. 138.
Jordbro, Gaai-d 238.
JorddaLsuipa 134.
•lostedal 144. 145.
.lostedalsbrif 130.135. 08.
144. 146, 181. 188.
Jostedals-Elv 144.
Jotunljeldene 147.
Jotunheim 146.
— , Hotel 164,
,l0kelfield 2.57.
.n-fklfv;iii.l Uf>.
INDEX.
465
.TtJlbro 191.
Jtikulegge 40.
.I«l8ter 18U.
.I^lstervand 180.
.7<*lstra 179.
Jonktiping 301.
.]«rnshorn 200.
Jorn 390,
.T0rundfjord 199.
.T0sendal, Gaard 98. 100.
.)«rsenfjord, see H.iiifsen-
t'jord.
Jiideberget 96.
Jukam 52.
Jukasjarvi 404.
Jularbo 380.
Julaxel 214.
Julsset 20G.
Julsund 214.
.Iiinkersdal 23S.
.Tuohmoljakko 403.
Jupvik VSS.
Jurutind 208.
.luteberg 94.
.hitul-Elv 59.
.Ivitulbugget 70.
Juvbrffi 157.
.Tuvelnsjo 384.
Jiivvand 160.
Juvvashytte 157.
Jvderup 451.
Jygraljeld 180.
Kaafjord 257.
Kaag0 267.
Kaagaund 257.
Kaalaa.s 97.
Kaardal, Gaard 115. 140
Kaasa 30.
Kaaven 258.
Kabelvaaa; 240. 24S.
Kaagefos 25.
Ka^geholm 352.
Kaliohiien 9.
Kajtum Fall 398.
Kaldafjeld 128.
Kaldlonna 218.
Kaiaiius-Stetei- 192. '201.
Kaldvaln 191. n.9.
Kuldvrlla 72.
Kalix-Elf 403.
Kalken 217.
Kalkudden 352.
Kalle 246.
Kalle-Fjeld 97.
Kallelid '. 3
Kallesteii 93.
Kallevasheia 41.
Kall.'jii ;:83.
Kallundborg 441.
Kallvik.u 390.
Kahuai- 281.
Kal(^ 440.
Bakukkkic's Norway
Kal.skraafjeld 209.
Kalslad 73.
Kaltisluokta 403.
Kalvaag: 170.
KalvaabKfida 164.
Kalvedal 122.
Kamsjock 4(.K).
Kammerherre (.Totun-
heim) 160.
Kamnsesfjeld 252.
Kampe-S*ter 109.
Kampen 52.
Kamphamre 68.
Kapellbackar 85.
Kappadal 139.
Karasjok 258.
Karesuando 268.
Karlberg 354.
Karl-Joban,sva!rn 9.
Karlsborg 299. 403.
Karlshamn 279.
Karlskoga 313.
Karlskrona 280.
Karlslund 370.
Karls0 255. ^
KarLstiar 360.
Karlstad 313.
Karlsten 86.
Karm0 99.
Karmsund 99.
Karpalund 278.
Karsjo 3i0.
Kassefors 285.
Kastnffishavn 250.
Katrineholin 301. 311.
Kattarp 285.
Kattegat 84. 448.
Kattenak ISO.
Kaupanger 140.
Kautokeino 267.
Kavli 2C'8.
Kaf.sta 387.
Kalarne 388.
ICarfsta 386.
Karreberga 284.
Kiirrgrufvan 307.
Karringii 85.
Ka:rseiinsdal 2C6.
Kadjojock 399.
KSge 396.
KSgerod 275.
KSlgardsberg 86.
Karbole 381.
Kartjejaur 403.
Keilliaustdp 157.
Keiseren Pass 175.
Kengis Bruk 2(«. 404.
Kerso 351. 355.
Ketkisuando 268.
Kiberg 264.
Kiel 443.
Kiblangi 268
Kil 313. 372.
and Swedi'u. 8th Edit
Kilafors 3^0. 391.
Kile 183.
Kiletjord i.
Kilefo.'! laS.
Kilen, Ciaavd 144.
Kilfors 389.
Kiliknappea 03.
Killeberg 2'i8.
Kilsmo 308.
Kimstad 310.
Kinda Canal 309.
Kinnared 286.
Kiunekulle 297.
Kinnerodden 263.
Kinservik 107.
Kinstaby 380.
Kirke 153.
Kirkeb0 [Hemsedal) 40.
— (Hvidesjjj) 38. 33.
— (Sngnetjord) 132.
Kivkealup 153.
Kiikelandet 215.
Kivkenses (Hardanger)
100.
— (Varanger) 20C.
Kirkest0l 58.
Kirkesund 86.
Kirketjoerne 153.
Kirkevaagen 240.
Kirkevolden 29.
Kiruna 403.
Kistefjeld 252.
Kistenuten 41.
Kistrand 202.
Kittia 268.
Kivik 274.
Kjselavand 41.
Kjternhulstind 171.
Kjairring 177.
[Kjterrin^ljeld 127.
lKj»rring)i< 248.
Kja?tnie3 242.
iKjedelen 157.
Kieflinge 275. 278.
Kjeipea 176. 133. 198.
ICjelda 48. 38.
Kjeldbaug 102.
Kjelkenas 170.
Kji^'lliug 241.
Kjel.saas 52.
K.jclstad 195.
Kjelsvik 35.
Kjelvik ^'02.
Kjendal 188.
Kjendalsbrai lf:S.
Kjcndalskrona ItS.
Kjenning.svik 0.
K'jeK 249.
Kjerag 94.
iKjcringtind 230.
iK.iernfjeld 238.
Kjeungen 233.
Kjoseii 2."i5.
HO
466
INDEX.
Kjostlndpr 256.
Kjk»be,nli;ivii , sop Cnpen-
Kj^depollen 177.
Kj0fjoi-d 2CC.
Kj0ge 440.
Kj0ivingfje]d 30
Kj0lberg 46.
Kj0len 69.
Kj0nefjord 263.
Kj0ndalsfos 110.
Ki/zrnnaas 64.
Kj0s 194.
K.i0sf<.s 130.
Klafrestrcim 250.
Kj^sniBsfjord 180.
Ki0snebb 194.
Klafrestrom 280.
Klagegg 181.
Klampenboi'g 43i.
Klana 18 ).
Klar-EIf296. 313.372. etc.
Klastorp 311.
Klagerup 275.
Kleivafo.s 19J. 196.
Klenshytfan 372.
Kleppeskar 154.
Klep.sEeter 126.
IClevane (Rundal) 129.
Kleve 211.
Kleven i Gol 45.
Klintehamn 366.
Klippan 284.
Klitm^ller 449.
Kloksegg 198.
Klopkjsern 24.
Klosterfjord (Hardaiigor)
100.
— (Sweden) 287.
— (Syd-Varangor) 266.
Kloster0 99.
Klostret 300.
Kloten 369.
K]0ften 60.
Kl^vdalseid 203.
Kl0ven 250.
Klubben (Jostedal) 146.
— (Malaren) 351.
Klypenaasi 155.
Klyve 129,
Knifsta 356.
Knivebakke-Sater 144.
Knivsfiaa 195.
KnivskJEer-Odde 261.
Knudsseter 201.
Knudsdal 19i.
Knutbv 361.
Knutsh/zr 72.
Knutshulstinder 165. 167.
Knutsvik 95.
Kobberbergs-Elv 29.
Kobberdal 237.
Kobbervik 99.
Koblievvik.'^dal 34.
Kobbeivolden 32.
Kiiblieryggen 252.
Kockonbus 285.
Kuksvik iThingvuld 217,
219.
Kolaa.s, Gaard 203.
Kolaastinder 199. 203.
Kolar-Elv 137.
KDlasen 384.
Kolbiick 368.
Kolbacksa 363. 370.
Kolbeinsdal 192.
Kolbeinsthveit 96.
Koldedals.tind 162.
Koldedalsvand 151.
Kolded0la 151.
Kolding 442.
Kolfursen 379.
Kdllandso 297.
Kollbrfe 67. 144.
Koltnardeii 311.
Kolnaase 145. 155.
Kolsaa.s 9. 22.
Kolsund 35-i.
Komagfjord 258
Konerudkollen Hute! 28.
Konerudsaasen 25.
Kongen 208.
ICongsbei'g 27.
Kongsfjord 263.
Kongshavn 20.
Koiigsh0i 136.
Kong.sli Sanatorium 64.
Kongt-'lid, Gaard 251.
Kong.smo 228.
Kong.str0in 50.
Kongsvand 136.
Kong.svinger 79.
Kongsvold 72.
Koo 86.
Kopervik 99.
Koppang 75.
Kopparberg 369.
Korns0 83.
Korpikylii 404.
Kors 209.
KorsSn 377.
Kdrsdal 105.
Korsen 227.
Korsfjord 101.
Korsnas (Falun) 377.
Korsnses (Stavanger) 101.
— (Tysfjord) 247. 249.
Korsnsestind 247.
Kors0degaard 61.
Kor,s0r 441.
Kortfors 313.
KiiskaLs 398.
Kosterfjord 85.
Kosthveit 31. 33.
Kots«(ren 77.
Kuvstulbeia 32.
Kovshilvand 32.
Kolsjon 369.
Kiiping 368.
Kopmannabro 371. 299.
Kraaen 124.
Kraakmo 249.
Kraakstad 80.
Krager0 7.
Ki-agerup 435.
Kramfors 394.
Krampen 369.
Krapperup 285.
Kravikfjord 43.
Krffikjahytten 48.
Krefkjavande 48.
Krffikledyrskar 41.
Krfingedefiisarne 388.
Krant;for,s 396.
Krekiing 27.
Kringen 65.
Kringlen 178.
Kristvik 216.
Krogegg 137.
Krogbaugeu 76.
Krogkleven 22.
Krog.skog 25.
Krogsund 23.
Kroken 146.
Kvokfors 389.
Krokom 383.
Krona 25.
Kronborg 438.
Krondal 145.
Kronebrw 188.
Kronen, (Jaard 145
Kronoberg, Castle 280
Kronoberg.s-Lan 280.
Kro.sboden 159.
Kroisfjceren 115.
Krossbakkeno.se 154.
Kr0deren 44.
Kr0dsherred 44.
Krosekulle 299.
Krvlbo 374. 369.
Kukkola 401.
Kulla Guuaarstorp 2?4.
Kullen, Promontory 285.
KuUsveden 374.
Kumla 370.
Kungsiingen 367.
Kungsbacka 287.
KuDgsgfirden 378.
Kungshamn 357.
Kungshatt 351.
Kungsor 370.
Kunnen, Promontory 239.
Kupefjelde 179.
Euro 352.
Kusijarvi 404.
Kuttainen 268.
Kvaal 78.
Kvaleli0gda 56.
Kvale-SiJiter 143.
INDEX.
467
Kvalonfra lOS.
Kva]«» (Hammerfist) 259,
— (Troms0) 252.
Kvalvin 245.
KvRiu (EidfJDrdsvaiul)
112.
— (Hudbrandsdal) G4.
KvamljeW ISU.
KvamtVis 112.
Kvaminc 58. IS'j.
Kvammen 219.
Kvainshest 179.
Kvaiii.sklev 5G.
Kvaiii.«0 106. 132.
Kvandal 1S8. Ud.
KvandalsbivT 14G.
Kvandals-Elv 193.
Kvannefos 55.
Kvarnros 216.
Kvarven 101.
Kvsefos 154.
KvEernaa 68.
Kvserne-Elv 145.
Kvfernhusfjeld 188.
Kvenang.stinder 257.
Kvenne-Heia 97.
Kvernhust'os 31.
Kvevnvolden 4.
Kvickjnck 400. 403.
Kvig 243.
Kviknc 73. 168.
Kvildal 96.
Kvindherred 102.
Kvindherred,<!-Fjord 102.
Kvine.sdal 90.
Kvisberg 63.
Kvistgaard 437.
Kvitegg 197.
Kvitenaes 18 1.
Kvitcvarde 135.
Kvitingen 151.
Kviting.skj^flcn 173.
Kvitlenaava (^8.
Kvitnaa lOS.
Kvitnrc.s 247.
KviUind 243.
Kvivon ini.
Kykkelsriid 80
Laagelidbjerg 43.
Laagen 8. 27. db. 42. 62.
6S.
Laaland 441. 444.
Labatrii.-)k 401.
Labrofofl 27. VS.
Lade 225.
l-adehanun<'reii 224.
Ladvik 132.
Tiagmanslinlin 3(.0.
LahnJm 2>'5.
Laidaurc 403.
Lak.-'pvaae 123.
Laleid 97.
Lainhult 279.
Land 26.
Landn 380.
Landegode 243.
Landskrona 275.
Landsvferk 32.
Langaa 447.
Langas.jaur 403.
iLangbrekken 200.
Langdal (Geiranf^iT
Fjord) 200.
Langedal (AardaLsvand)
149.
— (Bergen) 124.
— fBygdin) 165.
— (Sogndal) 137.
Langedal.gtjern 165.
Langegg 192.
Langeid 5.
Langeidvand 41.
Langeland (Denmark)443,
— (Serndfjord) 179.
Langelandsvand 179.
Langen 77.
Langenpps 247.
Lange-Sspter 134.
Langeskavl 163. 165.
Langesund 8.
Langesunds Kreppa 7.
Langevaag 100.
Langevand 171. 191. 129,
Langeva.sboden 111.
Langfjnrd (Mnldefjord)
212.
— fTanatjord) 263.
— (Tromajt) 253. 258.
— (Syd-Varanger) 266.
Langulnpdal 75.
Langlete 77.
Langnpt!.s 257.
Lang«r 247.
Lang0.sund 7.
Lang.sfPtervand 104.
Langskilisf* 201.
Langstein 22H.
Langvand 217. 237. 242.
Langvasaxlen 192.
Langvfcs-Elv 242.
Langvikon 18.
Lappea 2{'8
Lappland 397. 491. ftc.
Lar.slund 371.
Laskestad 248.
Latorpsbnik 370.
Lauodal 194.
Langen, .see Laagen.
Laupare 201.
I,aurherg 446.
Laiirdal (Kandak.ivand)
38.
— (.'^{(ndmirre) 183.
Lanrgaard 69.
Laurvik 36. 8.
Laiirvik.o-F.iord 8.
Laiiahorn 196.
Lauva 173.
Lauvaas 4.
Lauvh0 173.
Lav en 446.
LavangnfPS 260.
Laxa 301. 314.
Laxefjord 262.
Lafvast 391.
Lpegde-Elv 137.
Lsegdene 123.
Laggesta 311.
Lannerstasiind 349.
Ltera 58. 141.
Larliii 366.
Lifrdal 141.
Lierdalsaren 141.
Lfereim 211.
Langas 286.
Langholm 312. ^51.
LSng.-iele 389.
Lang-ihyttan :-i80.
LSngtrask 390.
Leangen 225.
Lebegbv 262.
Lecko 297.
Leebotten 263.
Leerfjord 248.
Leerfkarddal 236.
Legreidsvand 48.
Leinse.s 248.
Leira (Hardanger) 48.
— (Jotimheim) 158.
Leirdal 153. 159.
heirhei 182.
Leirmo 145.
Leirung.'fda], ^vrc 171.
Leirvand 153.
Lckanger 136.
Lek0 234. 297.
Leksand .375.
Leksviken 225.
Lekve 115.
Lemegg 140.
Lcmund8J0 66.
Lenseii 7.
Lenna 361.
Lcnnartsna.t 356.
Lennhcden 375.
Lcnvik 251.
Lep,''** 177.
Ler 78. 228.
Lerbiick 3(i8.
Leren 225.
r.erfns 225.
T,erum 299.
Lervik (Hardanger) 100.
- (Sognefjord) 132.
Lesjc-Hytte 217.
Le.sje-Kirke 70.
Lc.'.jeskogenVand 70.
Lcijevferk 70.
30*
468
INDEX.
I-cBsebo 280.
Lcts.jo 381.
Leuro<lal 243.
I.cvanger 2'i!6.
I.cvvajok 258.
Li 200.
I-iabrff 154.
I-iabyt;d iOI.
1/iadalshorn 203.
Liadalsnibba 19-').
l.iatorp 279.
I.iavand HI. 203.
Liaxel 146
l,id, Gaard 69.
Lidens Farja 3S7.
liidingfi 349.
lyidkopin^ 297.
I.idland 249.
Ijicn-SfPlP.r 125. 14G.
Lier 23.
Lifjeld (Slaakuvand) 32.
— (Slyngsfjord) 201.
Mgga 399.
Lihest 132.
Likkafjftld 252.
I.ikkavarre 252.
Liljeholmen 312
Lilia Essingcn 351.
Lilledal 217.
Lilledalsegg 194.
Lille-Elvedal 76.
I-illehammer 62.
Lille Hest 179.
— Maukef 251.
— Nup 41.
— Ejukanfo,s 39. 41.
Liller0d 435.
J/illesand 6.
Mllcskog 296.
Lillesfrtimmeii 60. 78.
Ivilletun 112.
J.imfjnrd 446. 449.
Limhamn 273.
Linaelf 403.
Lina Jppkna 212.
Linde 369.
Lindesnses, Cape 90.
Lindfor.s ,372.
Lindhult 236.
Lindome 2'37.
Lind0 9.
Lindsheim 67.
Lindvik 189.
Lines0 2-33.
Lingbo 380.
Linge 201.
Linghed 380.
Innghcm 309.
liingsfo.s 154.
I/inkoping 308.
Lis 286.
I,i-Sfrter 23 159.
Lister 9J.
LisMlsbrPP 145.
Litla.s-Spr^tev 111.
Livcrud 43.
L.ian 79. 20.
Ijj'inevand 97.
I,'i(isebntn-.S«'ter 213.
Ljcrcn 195.
Ljung 286. .306.
Ljungan 382. 3S6.
I-Jungby 285.
LjunEiskilc 85.
I.ju.sS. 401.
L'jii^^dal 3H1.
Lo, Gaard 168.
Lncknr 387.
L(.d.al.sbi-{p 146.
Lodalskaupe 188. 146.
Loon 185.
Locnvand 187.
Lofald 178.
Lofjeld 185.
L«(\,s .56.
Lnfnten I.'sland.t 243.
Lofo 355.
Loftesnai.s 141.
Loftet 153. 159.
Lnfthus 107.
Logavand 90.
r.ogen 95. 96.
Loka 372.
Lokkaren 234.
Loksund 101.
Lorn 66.
Lomefjord 1.32.
Loincn 55.
Lomma 275.
Lommijaur 242.
Lonisegg 15?. 66.
Lom.s-Hnrnng 66. 70.
Lom.^klev 66.
Lnppen 257.
Lora-Elv 70.
Lorafjeld 70.
Losna 63.
Lotefos 98. 110.
Lougen, .sec Laagrn.
Lovardabs.skar 149.
Lovunden 238.
L0b.saas 240.
L^demel 194.
L0dingen 249.
Lofsta 378.
Liifudden 388.
L0g0 257.
L0ining-S peter 127.
L0i1en 74.
L0kedal 106.
L^kedal.'^nuten 106.
L0kelandshe.st 179.
Lffkcn 56.
L0kcnfos 1S6.
L^kkens KnhbervKrk 73.
L0k,siind 247.
LHkta 237.
li^na-s, Oaard 242.
L0nefo.'! 128.
Ijfjnehorjp 126.
L^nc-sdai 2.38.
Lf<nevand 128.
L^nsBPt 211. 218.
L^nstnip 447.
l,(<rsnK's 257.
L^slogaard 45.
l-0.st,sa'ter 149.
LFTvcid 36.
L0vheim 32.
L^vnaa.ii 156.
L0v.staken 123.
Liibock 440.
Liidvika 372.
r,iilpa 396.
Lulc-Elf 390. 397. 398.
Lulleketjc 399.
Lund 276.
Lnndarvand 12?.
Lundby 367. 441.
Lunde (Eids EIv) 38.
— (Sweden) 393.
— , Gaard I8().
Lundebygden 179.
Lundefaret 38.
Lundemn 78.
Lunden, Gaard 1.36.
Lunderdal 67.
r^under.skov 442.
Liindeskar 135.
Lundevand 90.
Lund0 248.
Lnngegaard.svand 117.
121).
Lungo 393. 395.
Ltinncr 53.
Luossovara 403.
Lure Nul 114.
Lur0 238.
Lusahoug-SeTter 152.
Luspe 393.
Lyderhorn 117. 123.
Lygner, Lake 287.
Lygren 131.
Lykkja 46.
Lyngby 435.
Lyngdal 257.
Lyngdals-Elv 90.
Lyngenfjord 255.
Lyngholmon 100.
Lyng«fr 7.
Lvngs 449.
Lyng.seidet 256.
Lyngstiien 2.56.
Ly^nses-.'Va.s 105.
Ly.saker 22.
Lysebunden 93.
Lyscfjord 93. 101.
I,v.sekil 85.
Lysekloslcr 101. 124.
INDKX.
469
IyVSi'IlVJlI\rl 1(15.
l/vf^liina 4.
\Ai:0 101.
I.y.Mer 143.
I.\s1crfj(ird 142
Lystbu.s 29.
Maab^ 112.
Maabfirlal 112.
Maal.'selvdal 251.
Maal.sna-.s 251.
Maandal 2(17.
Maan-Elv 30. 31.
Maanofos 94.
Maaiaadal 191.
Maaren 1.32.
Jlaa.'ip* 260.
Madevarro 265.
Madvik J 95.
BlaRalauppt 73.
Maj;er*r 262. 216.
Magnor 79.
Makur 263.
Malangpnfir)rd 251.
Maldc 93.
Male 12S.
Malmagen 381.
Malmagr/jrnsnaavp 12"*
JIalraan|ZPr-Nut l(i2.
Malnibprg 402.
Malmpdal 200.
Malmo (.Skanp) 272.
— (island) 85.
Malslr/ym 245.
Mailing 376.
Malvik 225.
Mandal 90.
Mandfjpld 2.57.
Mands'eid 177.
Mantjiird 249.
Mnnt.irp ,308.
M.iraihilsfd.'i 213. 1.^)0.
Waradal'^tinder I5(<.
Marbv 383.
Mard^la 213.
Mariagpr 447.
Maribn 444.
Maridal.svand 52.
Mariibv 382.
Mariefred 3.52.
Marienboi-rr 226.
Marjenly.st 439.
Maricsfad 298.
MarifjaTcn 143.
Mari,stuen 58.
Markakvrka 300.
Markaryd 278. 281.
Marma 378.
Marmen, Lake 386.
Marok 196.
JIarsaafos 189.
JIar.slranrt 86.
Martcdal 144.
Ma.'^i 257.
MaMijock 265.
Ma^ned-iiind 441.
Jlafarpn'.;! 2G8. 401.
Jlatfor.s 3S6.
JlatlLsudden 398.
Maltniar 383.
MaTiran;;cr Fjurd 103.
Blaur.sppf 44. 48.
JIaur.sfadpid 183.
Maurvanijcn 169.
Mfpl 30. '
Malarbaden 371.
Malai-pn.LakcSll 347. etc.
Ma>lpn 252.
Ma'lkpvdld 186.
Mpelkcvdldsbrm 180.
Mallliv 278.
Malsaker 354.
Manniko-Ko.ski 2(J6.
MiRrranes 234.
Marsta 3.55.
MSpeskiir 85.
Medelpad 381.
Jledevi 306.
Medbeia 29.
Medle 396.
Mebavn 263.
Mpbus 96. 113.
.Alpienfjcld 6.
Meicrdiil 21)0.
Jlei.'^en 137.
.Meknokkpti 216.
Mclaanfos 106.
Meland 189.
Melbo 247.
Melderskin 103.
Melon .381.
Melfjnrd 239.
iMpllieimsnib 187.
Molbus (Klaam.sdal) 139.
140.
— (Trondbjcin) 78.
Molkcdal 173.
Mclkedal.<!br<T l(i3.
Jlelkedalspiggc 163.
Mclkpdal.'stinder 174.
.Melkodola 1G3. 165.
Mell 134.
Mellanspl 389.
Mellansjo 381.
Mellcne 164.
Meller8laStubba399.403.
JlcUerud 83. 371.
Mellosa 371.
Jlel«j 239.
Melsdal 103.
Mpl.shorn 203.
Melsvand 128.
Jlel.snipa 134.
Mem 307.
i\Iemnrubod KiS.
Mcmui-udal 168.
Memuriilinder 172.
Mpimirutuugc 167.
Meiipps 134.
Jleraker 226.
Meringdalsnsebha 213.
MeringdaLs-Srotrc 208.
Jlcsna 62.
Me.ssetind 250.
Middagsberg 138.
Middagshaugen 142. 209.
Middag.sborn 198.
Middagsnib 186.
.Middelfart 442.
JIidnPe,?hamer 149.
Mid.itupn 20. 21.
Midtdyr Ruste 41.
Midfet 212.
Midifjeld •33.
Midtgaarden 39. 5.
Midtlpeger-Speter 42.
MidtmaradaLsbi-pp 156.
Midtmaradalstinder 156.
Midtspetcr 103.
aiidtun 124.
Miendalstinder 199.
St. Mikael.'ihul 37.
Mindre Sunde 189.
Minne 61.
Minnesund 61.
Mireb0, Gaard 209.
ML-iprv, Monnt 268.
Mi.'^fjiird 204.
JMisvaTtjord 241.
Mia>lla 32.
Mjelde 252.
Mjell 134.
Mjelve 211.
Mjelvafjeld 207.
Mi(ill)y'3ft8.
M.j0)nir 209.
Mi0ndalen 25.
Mj/irn, Lake 299.
M.j0.'!en, Lake 61.
M'i0s.<!trand 31.
Mj^.sund 2,50.
Sli0.<!vand 31.
M'm (l^iairtevand) 40.
— (Ranenfjord) 237.
— (S0ndfjord) 180.
Moanebba 208.
Jlodum 25.
Mdclfven ,389.
Moelven 62.
Jloen (Aardal) 149.
— (Grundingsdal) 32.
— (Gudbrandsdal) 63.
— (Lysterfjord) 144.
- (Blaalsplvdal) 251.
— (Rokkedal) 40.
Jldgelifos 110.
IMiijien 1 ITf<idal,'!ui() 33.
- (I\li0svand) 31.
Jlohc'da 279.
470
INDEX.
Mdhiiliii 3(J0.
Moisund 4.
JVfoland 39.
Mnlaupsfjeld 199.
Moldaadal 49.
Molde 204.
Mdldefjord 177. 201.
Moldehei 205.
Wolden 142. 143.
Moldesfad 182.
Moldjord 241.
iMoIdV 176. 183.
Molknm 372.
Jtnlla, Lille & Store 246.
Mollosund 85.
Mon 83.
Mnngefos 209.
MdDSbnhela 47.
Mora 876.
— Noret 376. 377.
Hlorgedal^ 33.
Morgongafva 370.
Morjiirv .890.
Mork 67.
Morked0la 150.
MorkoUe 51.
Morshyttan 380.
Mortas 267.
Mortenslund 389.
Mortensnees 265.
Mosaksele 236.
MosSs 308. 370.
Mosby 4.
Mo.sebgf 32.
Mosj0en 236. 308.
Mosken 2i5.
Moskenees0 245.
Moskenstr0m 245.
Mess 80. 9.
Mos.sesnnd 80.
Moss0t 446.
Mostadhougen 178.
Mosterhavn 100.
Moi9t.er0 99. 100.
Mostorp 286.
Motala 306. 308.
jMotalastrom 306. 310.
Movatten 179.
Mockeln, Lake 279. 3t3
Mockleby 282.
Mi?ren 444.
M^geletun 112.
Molle 2S5.
M0llendal 122.
M0lmen 70. 210.
Mrilnbacka 372.
Mcilnbo 311.
Molndal 287.
Mfine 45.
Morbv 349.
M«trkadals-Elv 123.
M0rke 446.
m0rkcdal 46.
M^rkci 144.
Morkeklef 298.
M0rkereid.sdal 144.
M«rrkesvikfi(ird 248.
M^rkvcd 2'AS.
M.irsil 383.
M0r,sfafjord 164.
M0sadel 247.
Mo,s,seberg 300.
Mngp;edals-Elv 51.
Mugnafind 164.
Muldal 210.
Muldalsfos 201.
Mule ;i3.
MuUfjall 384.
MuUsjo 303.
Mulskreddal 195.
MuLsvorhorn 194.
Multraberg 394.
Mundal 134.
Mundheim 103.
Munkeg 133.
Munkfors 372.
Munkholmen 225. 356.
Munksjo 302.
Munksund 396.
Munktorp 3B8.
Munso 352.
Muonio-Elf 268. 404.
MuonidNiska 268.
— Vara 268.
Muradn-Sseter 149.
Muran-Sfeter 152.
Muri 200.
Murjek 401.
Muruaa 169.
Mu,sgjerd 218.
Musken 249.
Muskci 350.
Musubytt-Sseter 67.
Masvnid-Sfeter 75.
BIyking,s-SEeter 1.58.
Myklebostad 180. 182.
212. 248.
Myklemyi- 145.
Myklefhvcitvete 125.
Mvrdalen 140.
Myrdalsfcs 105.
Myrdalsvand 103.
Myre 63.
Myrheden 390.
Myrhorn 145.
Mysen 80.
Myssu-Sfeter 75.
Myten 145.
Naac 107.
Naalene (Nacr^dal) 129.
Naaver-Swter 173.
Nadden, Lakes 363.
>fadvjken 142.
Nagel^rcn 143.
Nakkehovcd 4.39.
Nakkcrud 26.
Nakskov 444.
Namdal 228.
Namsen-Elv 228. 234.
Namsenfjnrd 234.
Namsns 234. 228.
Kap3fr0iu 245.
Narvik 249. 403.
Katlavara 401.
Naustdal 179. 183.
Nautefos 138.
Nautgarstind 170.
Naven 73.
Naas 299.
Nacken, Lake 311.
N.=ilden 383.
Namdfors 389.
Nansjo 393.
Nwrb0f 91.
Nferingen 262.
NfEr0 234.
Nser^dal 138.
Nser^dals-Elv 128. 138.
jSf8er0fjord 137.
Nser^na-s 137.
Neer.strand 94.
Nfps (Hallingdal) 45.
— (Lake Kr0deren) 44.
(Lysterfjord) 142.
— (3Ij0sen) 78.
— (Romsdal) 207.
— (Spirillen) 51.
— fSuldalsvand) 97.
— (Upsala) 367.
Nas3,ker 389.
Nasberg 401.
N8esb0 49.
Nasby 352.
Neesdal 188.
Nfese 132.
Nses-EIv 55.
Nasfjard 355.
Nfcsheim 132.
Nfe,slieimshorgen 127.
N»,sland 39.
Npesodden 79.
NcPsodtangen 9.
Nfe.s.'iebv 265.
NEPSsct'211.
Nassjo 279.
Nas,sundet 377.
Nfestved 441.
Na,sviken 381.
Nseverdal 73.
Sffvernfci 236. 243.
Nebbedal 197.
Nedanpjo 386.
Ncdberge 139.
Neder-Kalix 403.
Nedreaal 48.
Nedredal 217.
]Ncdre Edclors 398.
I— Flodcn 138.
INDEX.
471
Xedre Jerfva 3u!j.
— l.i.1 145.
— Na.lJcn 3fi8.
— Sulheims S&ter l"i3.
— \Mncl 242. 252.
— Vii'jendcn (Oraveii.s
vandj 127.
fJalstervand) 180.
Ned.sfryn 188.
Nedsttun 124.
Keereb^, Gaard 93
Neergaard (Maalselvdal)
251.
Neergaarden i Aainli 38.
NegUuje 349.
Nelaagtj.>id 7.
Xclhuiiimar 310
Neiaal 48.
Nerdal 217.
'Nereb0 93.
Nerikc 301.
Nesdulen 59.
Neset 132.
Neslenib tSC)
Kestttvand 195.
Nestuii 121.
Netlaiid 105.
Nevluiighavu 8.
Kid-Elv (.\rendal) 7.
— Cl'i-ondUjem) 78. 220.
Is'iemls 404.
Nigardsbra- I'iG.
Nilsvigtinder 247.
Nipahilgd 115.
Nipen 80.
Ni,ssaa 286.
Nissedals-Elv 13S.
Nisservand 38.
Nitedal 53.
Nit-EIv 60.
Nivaa 435.
Njalavarre 257.
Njanja 399.
Js'javvi 399.
Njuken 130.
Njunjes 400.
Nokkeneb 196.
Nol 293.
Nondal 149.
Jfonbougen 156.
Nonsfjeld 200.
Nonsnib 188.
Nora 313. 369. 395.
Norangdal 197.
Norangsfjord 19.-!.
Kord 183.
Nordaasvand 123.
Nordanfiker 389.
Nordanakiirs 403.
Nordliierg.s-Kirke 67.
Niirdby 449.
NurddalsfJDrd 200.
Kdvddalskirke 200.
Nordorhov 23.
Ndi-dtjord (N. Bergenbti.'!)
182.
(Malangenfjoi-d) 251.
— (Storfji.rd) 202.
Nordtjdi-deid 1S3.
Nordfolden 248.
Noi-d-H.irland 131. 101.
NordingrSland S'JO.
Xordkjus 252.
Nordkyn 263.
Norduialing 395.
Xordiuandslaagen 31.
Nordm0re 215.
Nordna'S (Bergen) 120.
— (Sognefjovd) 130.
Noi-dre Aurdal 54.
Fron 64.
— Land 54.
— Nws 135.^ 142.
Snei'le 60.
Xordsj/i* 36. 32.
Nordvik 206.
Nore 43.
Norefjeld 44.
Nnretjord (Numedal) 43
— (Soguefjovd) 136.
Xorosund 44.
Nurevik.<;hei 132.
Novbeiinsund 105.
Norra Vram 275.
Korrbiirke 3118.
Noirbotten 397.
Norrkoping 310
Norrsundet 380.
Norrtelje o61.
Norrvik 355.
Nor-Swtcr 28.
Nors-Elf 313.
Norsesund 299.
Norsholiu 307. HOW.
Norske He.st 176.
North Cape 201.
Nurtliorp 164.
Norvand 202.
N(i.set-S!fter 49.
Xiplodden 29.
Novlel'os 42.
X0ra 76.
N^r.'ftebt* 43.
N^rstedals-Sseter 154. 67
N0rv0 202.
N^stdal 183.
N0ste 212.
N0stvik 236.
Nustvolden 227.
N0ter0 34.
Nulsfjord 245.
Nukeljebl 37.
Nuken 191.
Numedal 27. 41.
Nuortikon 401.
Nuppivane 258. 207.
Nupshang 159.
Nya St«f 42.
Nyaat0)..!f.)s l(t7.
Nv-.\une 73.
Nyaker 390.
Nybgaardeii 47.
Nyboden 165.
Nyborg (Fiinen) 441.
— (Varant^er) 265.
Nybr.i 280.
Xybu-Stetre 43.
Nybu,sj0 43.
Xybybruk 3il.
Nvgaard 53.
Nyhem 388.
Nvb0itind 20S. 213.
Nyhyttan 377.
Nykerne 245.
Xvkirke(l)raiiimen.s-Elv)
25.
— (Holmestrand) 34.
Nykj0bing 441. 444. 450.
Nykoping 371.
Nykruppa 377.
Nyland 30. 394.
Nynashainn 350.
Nypen 78.
Nypladsen 77.
Xyresbamm 312.
Xysieter rOudUrandsdal)
08.
— (Jl0lnien) 70. 210.
— (Rauislad.lal) 202.
Nysted 444.
Nvsluen (Fillefjeld) 57.
— ■ (IsTrkedal) 73.
Nystvand 35.
Xytr^en 73.
Ockelbo 380.
Ocke.sjo 383.
Odde '108.
(•ddeiia! 58.
UildertJ 3.
Oddeisjaa 3.
Oddesund 449.
Ode use 441.
Odinsh^i 439.
Odnies 53.
Olerdal 142.
Ot'dtenfjord 249.
0 I'll ten Railway 403.
Olriddal 132.
Ot'te i H0idalsni() 38.
Ofledal 141.
Ol'tevand 33.
Okelro-Fjeld 94.
t»kkeQ 59.
Oklevig 143.
Okna 310.
Oksefjord 238.
i>k.sen 206.
Ok.sonjj 201.
472
INDEX.
Okshovd 164.
DksntES 200.
» ilat'buvand 48.
St. 01af's-B;ul 25.
St. Olafsdal 201
St. Olafsgryder 25.
St. Olafs Ship 38.
— Snushorn 200.
Ulberg 44.
Olden 185.
Oldendal 185.
Oldenskai- 181.
Oldenvand 18G.
()ld)i(ren 185.
Olniajalus 242.
Oltnlieim 136.
()lnoe8-0 124.
Ulofstrom 279.
Olsboi-g 252.
Olsj0 54.
Dlskroken 293.
Olstappen, Lake 169.
Oraberg 304.
Omgang 263.
Ommundsaa 169.
Omnes0 289.
Onen 114.
<Jns0 80.
Onstad 55.
(josbakke 238.
Opdal (Drivadal) 73.
— (Lsrdal) 59.
— (Numedal) 43.
— (Valdera) 57.
Opdal3kirke 219.
Opdals-Sieter 160.
Opd^l 217.
Opheim (Odde) lOS.
Opheimsfjeld 185.
(Jpheim.svand l^S.
Uplius 75.
Opigaard 214.
Oplaiidskedal 193.
Opnaa.set. 67.
Oppeb0e!i 32.
Oppedal 107.
Oppegaaid 79.
Opsset 129.
Opsiet-SlKle 125.
Opstryn 189.
Optun 155.
Ordal 180.
Orelioved 44 L
Orken 180.
( trker0d 80.
Oi-mberg 144. 145.
Ormbergs St0l 144.
Orm-Eggen 33.
Ormeim 209. 71.
Oruisund 79.
Orniis fFaliui) 372.
tirno 350.
Ori'esta 307.
Orr0-Elv 143.
Orrskoe 378.
Or.sa 372.
Uitnevik 132.
Ui-u3t 85.
Os (Fusefjord) 124.
(R^ros) 76.
Osan 246.
Oscavsborg 9.
Oscarshall 18.
Oscarshoug 155. IGO.
Ose (Osefjord) 115.
(Soetersdal) 4.
Osedal 115.
Osetjord 114. 115.
Csen (Osefjord) 114.
— (Suldalavand) 90.
Oskai-.shaiiin 282.
Oskai'Str^rm 286.
Oslattfors 379.
Oslo 12. 79.
Osmark 211.
O.s0ren 124,
Osseskavl 115.
Osstad 4.
Ostendalsbrte 187.
Oster0 124.
Ostnsesfjord 246.
Osvand"211. 217.
Osvold 204.
Otheimsfos 218.
01 hern 366.
Otta 65.
Ottadal 05.
Otta-Elv 65. 67. 71.
Ottavand 00.
Ottebol 312.
Otteraa 2. 3. 5.
Otterbiickeu 313.
Ottew (Molde) 214.
— (Namsos) 234.
Ottertind 257.
Ottestad 61. 211.
Ottsjo 384.
Ousby 278.
Oval)ergs-Elv 154. 155.
Overaa 200.
Ovesholiii 278.
Ovnen 264.
(Jviksfjall 383.
Oxdalsht* 166.
Oxefjoi-d 7.
Oxefos 60.
Oxelosund 307. 371.
Oxen (Hardauger) 106.
Oxie 2r4.
0x0 3.
Odakia 285.
0defjord 135.
0degaard 216.
Odeshog 305.
0ea 145.
ihie Naddeii 308.
0f9tebro-Fo9 191.
I^fsthiis-Kos 105.
Ofveruui 310.
0i i Aanili 38.
jtJiangen, Lake 164.
0iangensh0i 164.
0ibergsfos 67.
0ie (Lserdal) 60.
— (Norangsyord) 198.
— (Steinbergdal) 49.
0ier 63.
0ieren, Lake 78.
0ie.stad 96.
0ifjord 111.
0ilo 56.
0ine3gavlen 242.
0isteinvand 42.
Ojeberg 381.
0ksendal 183.
0ksendalen 217.
0ksendals.strenffe 283.
0ksfjoi-d 257.
Oland 232.
01en 100.
01ken, Hotel 55.
Olme 313.
Orbyhus 378.
0rebsekke 97.
Orebro 309.
Oregi-und 391.
0reland 233.
0rje3ater 193.
0rje-SJ0 83.
0rkedals0ren 219.
0rkla 73.
0rn8es 239.
0rnefjeld 5.
0rnereden 446.
Ornskoldsvik 395.
0rsj0 83.
01-skog 201.
0v3kogdal 204.
0rsnipen 219.
0r3tentiurd 203.
0rstenvik 203.
0rterdalen 48.
0rterenvand 48.
Oi-tofta 278.
0rval]a 30.
Osbv 349.
08eskai- 202.
Ostanbiick 395.
0,stavall 381.
Ostberg 382.
0stefjoi-d 199.
(")sten', Lake 300.
|03tens0 105.
0sterl)0, Gaard 49.
Osterby 378.
0sterdalen 74.
Ostergiitlaud 308.
Ostei'siind 382.
INDEX.
473
Oster-Tibble 370.
Ostervik 375.
jystmanlid-Sit-tep 4v!.
**8traat 233.
Ostrabo 280.
Ostratorp "274.
0streim 95.
i0r.stre Slidre 164.
0stre-Slidre-Elv li;3.
Ost-Surasjo 368.
Jl?stvaag0 246.
J0f3tvik^227.
Oveds Kloster 274.
0veraas 213.
0verbv 251.
jBfver.ste Dal 130.
0VTeh0-SiBiev 173.
iJvregaard 252.
0vre St0] 200.
- Vand 242.
— Vasenden 127.
Ji*.\na 75.
Uxnered 293.
i^xsund 248.
iarxtinder 236.
J0fye 56.
Pajala 404.
Pajerim 398.
Palojuensun 2C8
Paradisbakker 23.
Parkijaur 399.
Partilled 299.
Pasvik 266.
Pakila 404.
Palsboda 301. Bid.
Federsfrup 444.
Pello 268.
Per.sberg 377.
Piggejavre 26'^.
Pilgriiu3lad 382.
Pipeilind 2,06.
Pirtiiiieiui 404.
Pilea 396. 390.
Pite-Elf 390.
Polcirkeln 401.
Polfoji 68.
Pollen 257.
PoloMik 258.
Polleliud 175.
I'olvand 67.
P.irJHs 399.
I'lirla Helsobniiin 801.
314.
Piii'saiitier Fjord 262.
Porsgriind 36.
Porsifors 398.
Pr»ke<.tt.l 196.
Prastebakkc 83.
PrRstedal 15:4.
PptEstebolt^0l 47.
Pra-stbus (Soknedall 74.
i're.sfelu.lt.sHl 47.
Pre-stesleinvand 160.
Prcstfjiirden 354.
Prestforsen 363.
Pruglaa 238.
Puddetjord 117. 12J.
Purkibolm 399.
Purkijaur 399.
ftvarken 365.
Quarnafor.s 385.
Quarnamala 280.
Qvicksund 370.
Qvisbro 370.
livKtsle 383.
Raade 80.
Kaadljeld 181.
Raaoiand 199.
Raasnaas 108.
Raastad 34.
Kaftsund 247.
Rago-Njaraa 263.
Ragunda 3S8.
Rake 185.
Rakkestad £0.
Rambter 136.
Ramberg 51.
Raiulosa 284.
Ramlusabrunn 284.
lianimelklava 85.
Ramnas 367. 3t:3.
Ramsaas 44.
Rainsele 3S9.
Ramsjo 381.
Raiu.s0 234.
Rauistftjord 215.
Raiii'itaddal 202.
I! and 184.
Raudal 238.
Kandeberg 99.
Rauders 447.
Riindijaur 399.
Raiid0 94.
Kauds-Elv 26.
Randsfjoi-d 26. 53.
Rand.svierk 66.
Ranenfjoid 237.
Rangaatiiid 213.
Iian.;suud0 239.
Raiibiiiii 225.
Rankbyltan 373.
Ranklev 63.
Hansiiter 372.
Ra^.isvari 242.
Rasten 75.
Ralan 396.
Raiibei'g-'Nuten 38.
Raubergsbolten 144.
Raubergskaiuiien 57.
Rauber'-'s-Stul 167.
Rauclilai 68. 167.
Raiuldalsmiiud 168.
Haud.lal.stindei- 1(;7.
Raudegg 191.
Kaudnita 14i4.
Rauegg 138.
Ilaueni 22S.
Kaut'iord 1G4.
Raul'cis 53.
Raubeia 216.
Uaulandsfjeld 31.
Kauma 70. 207.
Raunip 124.
Raunsdal 108.
Rau8 275.
Rausdal 144.
Rauskarfjeld 146.
Rau3kj0ldvand 150.
Ravnedal 3.
Ravnefjeld (Cbristi in-
sandj 3.
— tLoenvand) 187. 188.
Ravnejuvet 39.
Rafsnas 852.
Rfegefjord 90.
Riillsa 369.
Ramen 372.
Riippe 279.
Rtestadbygd 2u6.
Riittvik 376. 377.
RSa 275.
i: aback 297. 298.
Radomsbrvgga 389.
Rfiballan 379.
R;uiea 403.
Ka.sbult 279.
Rastuk S3.
iU'd 181.
lieirelbra-k 3;).
Kefna-stansien UO.
Refsuddeii 3C6.
Refsundeu, Lake 3SI.
Reime 129.
Reiiuer.sbolui 312. 351.
Reiu 23:1
Keinaa 226.
Keinbj0i-Elv 228.
Reindalsliud 239.
KehiJal.svik 23;).
Mtiue 215.
lieinliLiiu 72.
Keinlid 52.
i;ein0 254.
Reinsvand 227.
Reiiisvoll 53.
Ueiunngvaiid 130.
Reistbter 105.
Reitan 77.
— , Gaard 214.
Reit^ttren 77.
Rekarne 370.
Kekking.siiut 41.
Relling 200. 197.
Reiu, Uaard 200.
RembesdaJ.sfiis 113.
li.-mbcsdal.s-Sa'ter 114.
474
TNDEX.
Rembesdabvand 114.
Beiniuem, Oaanl 2011.
Kena 70.
llendalatiiul '250.
Kendsbui-i; 443.
Renfjall 3-4.
Renfos 237.
Reuijen, Lake 309.
Kennes<« 99.
Ren0 2()4.
Repvaaii 2(j2.
Resele 3S9.
Reviklidrn 177.
Riddarhyttan 3GS.
Hidderspraaget 05.
Riddei'.'ivik 355.
Ridci 352.
Riinggadu-Satre 150.
Riingsbotn 166.
Riing.'^tinder 150.
Riksgrrcnsen 249. 403.
Uimbo 361.
Himf()rs.struin 309.
Rinda G4.
Rindalen 219.
Rindalshurn 189.
Rindebakken 39.
Rindo 350.
Ring 62.
liingdalstind 202.
Ringe 443.
Ringebu 63.
Kingedalsvand HI.
RinKerike 26.
Ringheim 126. 128.
Ringkollen 26.
Ringn«s 44.
l!ing«ren 111.
Ringsaker 62.
Ringsjon 278.
Ringsted 441.
Ringvad.s«( 264.
Ringifagen 349.
Riondefos 139.
Ripats 401.
Ris 20.
Risagi-utte 237.
Risbu-Aa 42.
Rise (Driva Valley) 73.
— (J0rundfjord) 2u4.
— (Nordgulen) 176.
Risefjord 132.
RiS0bavn 247.
Ris0r 7.
Risskov 446.
Risvser 234.
Rivenaase 143. 144.
Rjukande Fo,s 46.
Kjiikanfoi? 31.
— , Lille 39. 41.
Roaldkvam 6.
Robertsfor.5 Briik 390.
Robultljeld 38
Rockebro 30S.
Uocksjo 302.
Rodvcild 225.
Rogn 120.
Kognan 243.
Rogna's 77.
Rogne 163. 55.
Rokke-Elv 40.
Rokombon-e 262.
Roldu 250.
Rolfshus 45.
Rolfs0 2C0.
Rolfs0havn 260.
Rolsbakkei- 227.
Roma 306.
Rombak 249.
Romedal 203.
Romedalsliorn 199.
Romelekliut 274.
Ilomei-ike 01.
Romfogskjairringen 218.
Rommedal 134.
Rommehest 134.
Romsdal 208.
Rom.sdalshorn 209.
Rondane 75.
Rondeslot 75.
Ronene 3.
Ronglan 226.
Ronneby 279.
Rosendal(Hardanger) 102.
— (Stockhiiliu) 340.
Rosendala 303.
Rosendals-Elv 228.
Rosersberg 355.
Roskilde 440.
Rossbyttan 374.
Rossvalen, Lake 369.
Rostafjeld 251.
Rostavand 251.
Rosteranta 2:8.
Rotebro 355.
Rotkneeet 239.
Rottna-Elf 313.
Rottneros Bruk 313.
Rotvold 22:5.
Ruvelien 169.
Roxen, Lake 306.
R0ba'k 210.
R^dbjerget 233.
Rodesund 299.
R^devccg 203.
Rodgafvelg Grotto 304.
Port 305.
R0dhammer 227.
R0di 188.
R0Jland 125.
R0dniDgen, Gaard 209.
R0d0 230. 239.
R0d6fl0veii 239.
R0dsa-t 201. 203.
R0dsbeiiii 1.57.
ROd,sta 3S9.
R0d.sund 234.
R0dvas-l':iv 237.
K0dvenr|ord 211.
R0en 55.
Rogle 285.
R0ikenvik 26.
R0iknes 4.
R0ise 112.
Rujnoret 896.
R0jshjem 157.
R0ken 23.
R0kena'8 100.
R0kjeskaalvand C7.
R0ldai 42. 97.
R0ldalsaaten 42.
R0ldalsvand 97. 42.
R0nd0lsskar 208.
R0neid 144.
Riinne 439.
R0nstadhul 177.
RauvikfjeUl 240.
ROr 383.
Ii0raa.s 70.
R0rhoptind 247.
R0i-bu.sdal 193.
R0rhu8niblia 195.
R0nia'3tinder 206.
R0ru,s 70.
R0r0 236.
R0rstad 199.
Ror.strand 354.
R0rvik 180. 234.
R0rvikfjeld 180.
It0saa 236.
R0saa0ren 230.
R0skje 227.
R0sn8e,s 241.
R09t 245.
Roslanga 284.
R03vand 236.
R03vik 248.
R0vik 211.
Roytta 404.
Uudkj0bing 443.
Rueid 199.
Rugsund 183.
Rui 40.
Ruklenut 108. 110.
Ruksisvaggegalssa 257.
Rullenut 111.
RuUestad 100.
Rulten 246.
Rundal 129.
Rundal3-Elv 120. 129.
Rande-Vand 129.
Rundhorn 192.
Rundtom 166.
Rundvash0gda 75.
Rungafed 4.35.
Runnsjo 372.
Ruusa 350.
Ruokojarvi 404.
Ruii.si Joki 242.
INDEX.
475
Rnsinnnrfs 343.
Eus-Elv 40.
Ru.ifjdop no.
Riiskola 2G8. -lOl.
Kii.'slicn-Snptro 170, 03.
Hussa-Elv 170.
Rus.sariir.s 243.
Hu,s.sc ]Iunflli(i> 170.
Kustcgg 16ii.
Ku.'?t.en (Bnvi idal) \r)'<
— (Gudbi-and.'^dal) liO
Ruslcnfjcld 69.
Ruslcn-'Srptcr IfiO.
Uustfjeld 5.
Ru,st«reii 186.
Riist«rfiel<l ISO.
Rusvaiiil 170.
Ru.<iva.<!bi)d 170.
Rutcn 25'2.
Ruvflolinck 261.
Rvdbcilioh.i 2^6
Rydssard 274,
Ryefos 14.^j.
EyfvlUc 91.
Ryg (G)0|iii(Mrinr.l) IS4
RvgP'- (Smali-noiie) 80.
Rygbydna liJO
Rygnestad 6.
Rytiva.shorn 181.
Ryliaugcn 76,
Ryholm 299.
Ryomgaai'd 440.
Ry.sfjicron IS4.
Ryvardens-Fyr ICO.
Eyvingen 89.
Saathorn 193. 196.
Sailolc-g 180.
.Sadel-Fjold 58.
Sadlon (Ilaiiiincri'e?t} 259
Siifc Haven 269.
Saga n as 140,
Sage 132.
.Sagfjord 248.
Saggatjaiir 399.
Sagvande. 249.
Saksa 159. 199.
Sala 374,
— jK'kna 242.
Salangenfjord 250,
Salbevg 227.
Salen, Lake 279.
Salml.s 404.
Salsta 378.
Saltdal 238. 243.
Salten 239.
Sal ten fjord 241.
Saltero IW.
Saltkjeliias 1H7.
SaltnEC.'fsanden 219,
Saltoluokta 4a3.
SaUsjobadf-n 349.
Saltsjon 347.
.Saltskou 311.
,-!alt,'!lr0ui 241.
Samlebovd l(i6.
Sainleknllc KKi.
.Sammangpf Fjord 124.
SaiiLsu 441.
Sand (Sand.ofjord) 95.
Sanddalsfjcld 18(1.
Sanddal.svand 182.
Sande (Draniiui-n) 34.
— (Ilidmedal) 17S.
— (Locnvand) 187.
Sandebiiet. 34.
Sandoljord 34. S.
■^anilci'd 90.
Sand.'idljord 96.
Sand-Elv 152.
Sand en (Tin.sjja) 30.
Sandene 184. 182.
•^andiMiib 187.
.Sander 79.
Sandcrsl0le'i 51. 45.
.SandlVrbu,'i 226.
Sandfjeld 179.
Sandgrovskar 214.
Sandhamn 3."jO.
Sandhem 303.
Sandboliii 403.
Sandhorn _240. 241.
Sandboug 31.
■^andmoen 389.
Sandnifs (Nordlaiirt) 241.
— (Oldenvand) 1S6.
— (Sa'tersdal^ 4.
— (Stavanger) 91.
Sandnses0en 236.
.Sandnk 39.
Sandp (,Nord - Ilorland)
131.
— (Stadt) 177.
Sand^la 227.
Sandon 394. _
Sand.sfjord 95.
.SandsfdS 95.
Sand.sjo 279,
Sand,sian 394.
Sand.st«r 108,
Sandtorv 250.
Sandtrask 401.
Sandvim 44.
Sandvand 217.
.Sandvcn (Norhelmsund)
105,
— (Sandvonvand) 110,
Sandvenvand 109.
Sandvig 217.
— , Gaard 2i3.„
Sandviken (Angerman
Elf) 384. 395.
■ (Christlania) 22.
- ((idle) 378.
Sangerfjeld 47.
Saiigcsand 93.
Sauna 303.
Sannasund ''93.
Sannesund 81.
Sarp.sl)org 81.
Sarpsfo.'i 81.
Sartortr 101.
Sarvfo.s 5.
Saskam 399.
SaUnjarvi 401.
Saude 95.
Saudefjord f5.
Saudeborn 2<j3
Saue-Niit 110.
Sanor-Elv 32.
Saiis0 83.
Sauland 32.
Sa.xaklep 105.
Saxhaug 227.
Saxvik 376.
f])0 (Eidfj()rd,'5vand)
112.
(.Innindfjord) 199.
S.Hhy (Kinda Canal) 309.
— (Denmark) 448.
Sffid, Gaard 113.
Siifjaa 355.
Siifsjo 279.
Saf.sjo.stroiu 28(J.
Saf.'itabolni 301.
SiifveS 299.
Sfrheimsdal 14'.?.
Srckken 206. 211.
Sa^lbo 225.
— Fjord 163.
— Si0 225
Siildtjord 86.
Sfcltun 59.
Saro 292.
Siitcr (l)alecarlia) 375.
Sffiterfjeld 190.
Sa^termoeu 2.')2.
Sfetern i R^ro.s 77.
Secternebba 203.
Sa?.tcrsdal 3. 4.
Steter.sdalens Summer-
hjem 4.
8i<'ter,s(0en 79.
Srotervand 211.
Sietnea 207.
Sy'tne,-ifjeld '.'07.
SaHredal 197.
Spetrenre.s 176.
Sagen 377.
SSgmvra 3(7.
Sanga 394.
Scblcswig 442.
Seelje.sfeterhorn 191.
Seem 227.
Sefne 371.
— Canal 312
Segea 276,
Scgling.iberg 367.
Segmon 372
476
INDEX.
Segnetveit 115.
Seida 265.
Seierstad 234.
Sciland 259.
Seim i Graven 127.
Sel 69.
Selanger 386.
Selao 354.
Selbu-S)0 225.
Selje 177.
Seljedal 132.
Selje0 177.
Scljesfad 98.
iScljcstad)\ivet 98.
.Sclsba>k 78. 225.
vSelsen^!: 137.
Selsjo 3S9.
Selsli-Sscler 28.
Sels0vik 239.
Selsvand 09.
Sem (SnaascnvandJ 227.
— (T0ii,sberg) 34.
Sembla 368.
Semletind 209.
Semmelaa 171.
Semmelhul 171.
Semmeltind 172.
Semmen 50.
Senjehest 250.
Senjen 250.
Seskaro 404.
Setsaas 225.
Seutivarre 252.
Seveu Sisters 236.
Sexe 108.
Sickla 849.
Sigdestad 189.
Siggen 100.
Signildsberg 356.
Sigtuna 356.
Sikea 396.
Sikfors 372. 390.
Sikkilsdals-Sater 69.
Sildefjord 103.
Sildegabet 176.
Silden 25 (.
Siljan, Lake 375.
Siljansniis 376.
Siljord 33.
Siljordsvand 32.
Silkeborg 446.
Sillen, Lake 311.
Sillesund 8G.
Simlenses 137.
Simoa 25.
Simodal 113. 111. 112.
Simogalfos 155.
Simonsfad 7.
Simonstorp 311.
Sinarp 2^5.
Siiidiil 4'l7.
Sinderlieu 64.
SJiidufPSJ!' 233,
Singel0er 84.
Single Fjord 83.
Singsaa.s 77.
Sira 90.
Siradal 213.
Sirakirke 212.
Siredal 90.
Siredalsvand CO.
Sitiidjanr 403.
Sivle'fos 139.
Sjabat akka Lake 4U3.
Sjaunaluokta 403.
s'jansf.addal 199.
S'iabjvad 389.
S.j>rping 138.
Sjerpenut 138.
Sjoa t!i. 107. 169.
Sjnadal 109.
Sjodalsvand 170. 65.
Sjortiiingsbrfe 16S.
Sjoandan 377.
i/!«d0la 213.
Sjoholm 301.
Sjerholt 201.
Sjcrnstaa 242.
8j0rriiig 449.
S.i«rstrand 136.
Sjotorp 298.
S.j0vik 201.
Sjustct 105.
SjutsSsen 389.
Skaabvgja 1G9.
Skaala 185. 187. 210.
Skaalebrte 188.
SkaaleSfeter 139.
Skaalfjeld 188. 190.
.Skaalland 241.
Skaar 143.
Skaaranut. 114.
Skaare (Fikseiisuud) lOJ.
— (.J0rundljord) 19'J.
— (Nordfiord) 190.
Skaaren 150,
.Skaarene 146.
Skaavetinder 199.
Skaar0 255.
Skabersio 274.
Skafie 6.
Skagagjel 15i.
Skagast/zrle 155.
Skagast0lsbotn 155.
Skagast0lsbrffi 155.
Ska.gas(0lstinder J 56.
Skage 228.
Skagcn 448.
Skagern-Sjo 301.
Skager-Kack 84.
Skaggeilaa 196. 197.
Skaggeflaafos 186.
Skaggeflaan0stet 197.
SkagsufPb 153.
Skags Udde 395.
Skalfjeld 169.
Skalka. Lake 399.
Skalpj0 226.
Skalstugan 226. 385.
Skamlini!sbanken 442.
Skammedalsb0idn 136.
Skammestein 164.
Skanderborg 446.
Skanor 274.
Skansen 368.
Skara 300. 292.
•Skard 98.
Skardalseggen 171.
Skardh^r 66.
Skarfjeld 217.
Skarfven 3.56.
Skavna^s 79.
Skaro 48.
Skarpsno 18.
Skarpstr0mmen 38.
Skarsfjord 239.
Skarsfos 110.
Skars-Sa;ter 43.
Skarstenfjeld 184.
Skarstind 153.
Skarsvand 43.
Skatestr0ni 176.
Skattkarr 313.
Skatvold 226. 257.
.Skauta 175.
— Elv 172,
Skautefos 175.
Skautb0 172.
Skavle Nut, 95.
Skavlevffigge 182.
SkavlikolJen 250.
Skavskarniit 127.
Skalby 281.
Skaralid 284.
Skseringsdal 190.
Skane 278.
SkSre 313.
Skeaker 72.
Skebiick 370.
Skei (J0l.stervandj 180.
— (LPk0) 234.
Skeidkampen 63.
Skeidsnipa 134.
Skeja 159.
SkeWerviken 285.
Skelleftea 396.
Skellefte-Elf 390.
Skeninge 308.
Skepparkroken 285.
,Ski 79.
Skibotten 257.
Sk'ien 36.
Skiens-Elv 8. 35. 36.
Skilbred 179.
.Skilbredsvand 179.
Skillebeek 18.
Skillebotn 236.
Skinegg 161.
Skinnebergs-Nut i02.
INDEX.
477
Skirlaxlcn 209.
iSkisiCter 113.
Skive 450.
Skjangli 249.
Skjceggcdal 110.
Skjseggedalsfti.s 111.
Skjseggestafl ii'd.
Skjrolvik lOS.
Skjsenlal 184.
Skjaidalcn 26.
SkjaMgaard B.
Skjan-ing 184.
SkjaTJchavn 131.
Skj.cr.Mirden 210.
Skjarvtr 257.
Skjeberg 81.
Skjeistrand 184.
Skjeldal, Ciaard 106 126
Skjelnsps 103.
Skjeple 129.
Skjerdal 139.
Skjern 449.
Skjerpa 239.
Skjerping 47.
Skjerstad 241.
Skjerstadfji.rd 241.
SUjeivefos 126.
Skjervet 126.
Skjiber-sfjeld 189.
Skjoldehavn 247.
Skjoldcn 14A.
Skjoldfjcld 56.
Skjolten 207.
Skjomboln 249.
Skjomenfjord 249.
Skjorsirtervaiid 211.
Skjorla 181. 212.
Skj0nnc 43.
SkjfTn.'iluen 242.
Skjtirdalen 226.^
Skj0rcnfjord 233.
Skj0lningberg 263.
Sk(vd(lal;sficld 111.
Skodsbiiru 434.
Skodshorn 56.
Skofjiird 356.
Skogadal 174.
Skngadalsb0cn 152. 174.
Skogadalsnaasi 152.
SkogaJola 152. 174.
Skogcfos 208.
Skogerii^ 266.
Skogfnidal 237.
Skogn 226.
Skogshorn 46.
Skogs0 247.
Skogstad 67.
Skogstcrp 370. 371.
Skokldstoi- 356.
Skole lU.
Skollenborg 27.
Skollerud ,50.
Skoltou 207.
SkomvBPr 245.
-ikonevikstjord lOU.
Skonningfos 82.
Skoppum 34.
8kop.shorn 203.
8kordal G4.
korgedal 204.
Skorped 389.
•Skorpen 102. 215.
Skorp0 17(i.
Skorvetjeld 32.
Skotgaarden 77.
8k.itif()S 96.
Skotselven 25.
Skofi^fjord 24.8.
Skntslindcr 245. 218.
kottcrud 79.
SUottorp 285.
Skoiiger 34.
Skougumsaas 9. 22. 23.
Skovlieim 32.
Skofde 300.
Sk0ien 16.
Skon 388.
Skonvik 388.
Sk0ro 48.
Skrseatna 177.
Skriicka 372.
Skradderdal 122.
Skreda-Fjeld 71.
Skredevand 181.
Skredvand 39.
Skreia i Toten 53.
Skreidfjeld 61. 74
Ski-enak 200.
SkrPtind 218.
Skridiilaupbvrt' 68.
Skridulaupen 68. 191.
.Skrikon 136.
Skrikjdfos 107.
Skrimsfjeld 28.
Skroven 2i6.
Skrukkalien 53.
•ikrutvold 163.
Skruven 198.
SkudesniTS 99.
Skudesnitshavn 99.
kullerud 78.
Skultorp BOO.
Skultuna 367.
Skurdal 43.
Skurusund 349.
8kurvenaa.se 143. 144.
Skuteviken 105.
Skuthamn 396.
Skuiskiir 379.
Skutvik 248.
Skvit tla 31.
Skvkjefo? 113.
Skvlslad 19S.
8kylsladhiTkkcii 198.
Skvrifjeld 66.
■^kyltorp 378.
81aakuvaii<l o2.
81agel.sc, 44J.
.Sla'bcndc23.
Slatl)akcn 307.
Slattberc: B77.
Slemdal 20.
Slemmestad 9.
SleswKk 442.
Sletdal 197.
Sleiflykamp 67.
Slethavn 153.
Slelmarkbrir 166.
Sletiuarkpig 165. 166.
Sletna's 263.
Slettafos 210.
.Slettcdal 95.
Slettefjeld 142. 161. 200.
Sletten 100.
Slidre, J&stre & Vestre 55.
Slidreaas 55. 163.
Slidrefjord 65.
Slinde 136.
Sliparebacke 278.
Sliper 218.
Sliperhovd 218.
Slitu 80.
Slogen 198.
Slondalsvaud 130,
Sloinge 286.
81vngstj(ird 201.
■Slyngstad 201.
Smaadal 173.
Smaada}s-Sa>ter 173.
Smaadfrta 46.
Smaaget, Defile 151.
8iriaa9tr0m 2G6.
Smalaberg 154.
Smaland 278.
Sinalandssten:'!' S86.
Smeddal 58.
Sinedjcbackcn 367. 31j8.
372.
Smedoddi'n r'8.
Smeds 308.
Smetbak Salter 47.
Smitistnipgaard 434.
.Smcigen 85.
■jm0len 215.
Sm0rbottenfjcld 2U7,
Sm0rbringa 263.
Sm0rdalen 183.
Sin0rklcp-Elv 40.
omurklepl'jeld 40.
Sm0r]id-Sn'ter 173.
Sm0r,skredtindev 198.
Sm0rstabbcn 256.
.Sm0r.stabbra' 159.
Sm0rstab(inder 159.
Siiiyten 369.
Sniytte-Sa'tcr 48.
Snaasenheia 227.
.Snaascnvand 227.
Snaiuiu 41.
478
INDEX.
Sriarums-Elv 25. M.
Snasahogarne 385.
Snauedal 135.
Snnufjfild 201.
Sniirak 100.
Sncetind 247.
Sncbefttan 72.
RiieUkcr.strn 435. 437.
Snenipa 182.
Sncrle 66.
Snilslhveit KG.
Snushorn 200.
Sofiero 28i.
Soget 142.
Sngge 30J. 208.
— Sfcter 201.
Sogndal r.M'dcri'nl 90.
— (Sngncfjord) I3!3.
Sogndalsfjord I3(i.
Sngndalsvand 137.
Sognefe.st 131.
Sognefjclfl 154. 160.
Sognefjord 130.
Sokna 74. 77.
Soknedal 74.
Solberga 308.
Solb.i«rrg 105.
Solbj0rgeiiut 138.
Solbraakampen U4.
Sole 91. 93.
Soleitind 156.
Solfjeld 102.
Solheimsheia 179.
Solheinisviken 123.
Solleffea 394.
SollentunaboJm 355.
Soliero 376.
Soliiden 64.
Sollien 75.
Solllgaarrten 75.
Sollih0gda 22.
Solna 348.
Solnut. 107.
Solovom 267.
Sol0en 241.
Solsivand 115. 130.
Solsnfieg 137.
SoJstraud 123. 124.
Snlvaagfjcld 238.
Solvorn 142.
Srimmen 308.
Soner 80.
Soon 80.
Sorgenfri 435.
Sorkevand 43.
Soi-0 441.
Sortland 247.
Sofa-Sfeter 67. Ii4.
Sotefjoi-d 85.
Sotenjis 85.
Sofennt 127.
Sotlijfrrn 67.
Sottern, Lake 301.
Sound, Hic 273. 2.83.109.
Sgherg 78.
SriderSs 285.
.Soderbiirko 367. 368.
Soderfors 378.
Soderhamn 391. 380.
Sciderkoping 307.
Sodei'manland 311.
Scidertelge 311.
Sodra Barken 368.
— Bjorkfjard 352.
— Qvarken 395.
Scifdeborg 274.
8*:ibolt. 201.
Sukkelvt-n 202.
S^kk.'lv.sljord 202.
S0knesand 180. 135.
Sffknosandsnipa 18". 135.
S^knesandsskar IrO. 135.
S^Isnfc.s 211.
S0lvbjergljeld 184.
Solvcsborg 279.
S0lvkallen 199.
80mnfes 235.
>!0ndenaa-Fo,s 95.
S0ndenfjeldakeNoigc71.
90.
S0nderviken 77.
S0ndfiord 176.
S0nd-'Horland 100.
S0ndm0re 197.
S0iidre Aurdal 51.
— Birkedal 183.
— Flesberg 43.
— Fron 64.
— Tveraa 170.
S0nlandsvand 32.
S0nnerheim 49.
80nnerheimsgalder 49.
Sorby 300.
S0i-dal 249.
S0rfjord (Hardanger)107.
124.
— (Uifsfjord) 265.
S0rfolden 248.
Sor Gadden 395.
80rheimsfjeld 143.
S0rkedals-Elv 22.
S0ikjevand 43.
S0rnesje 211.
S0r0 259.
Sorqvarn 368.
S0runi (Gudbrandsdal)
66.
— (Valders) 51.
S0rumsanden 78.
80rvik 234.
S0rviksund 234.
Sosdala 278.
S0strene 208. 93.
S0torp 64.
S0vde (Fortundal) 155.
— (S0iidm0re) 95.
80vdefjord 203.
S«»veien 250.
S0vik (Al.sfen) 236.
Spaadomsnut 32.
Spanfjeld 22-;.
Spannarp 2?6.
Sparrehiilin 311.
.Spfmga 367.
Sperle 145.
Sperlingsbnliu 286.
Spillum 227.
Spirillcn, Lake 50.
.Spii-lc-Njarga 262.
.Spiter.stulm 172.
Spitzbergeii 268. 269.
Spjd.'ioddcn 38.
Sp'01-leglirn^ 144. 145.
Spi-angdal (i7.
Spriingsvikeu 393.
Sputrefos 56.
Spydebcrg 80.
Sta 385.
8taalbei'g 198.
Staalet 177.
Staavand 41.
Stabben 215.
Stabben.sfyr 176.
Staberg 157.
Stackmora 377.
Stadlland 177.
Staffanstdrp 274.
Stafsinge 286.
8tafsnas 350.
Staftniit 41.
Staisund 357.
Stafvre 382.
Stai 75.
Stalheim 128.
Sfalheinist'os 139.
Sfalheimsklev 128. 13.'
Stalheim.snut 129.
Stalltjarnstugan 385.
Stamnres 23 (.
Stamsele 389.
Stamsund 245.
Sfana 108.
Standal 109. 203.
Standalseid 203.
Standalshorn 199.
Stange 61.
Stangentes 263.
Stangenwsfjeld 263.
Slangfjord 176.
StangLelle 124.
Stanglandsfjeld 131.
Stangstuen 62.
Stangvik 219.
Stappene 261.
Stardal 181.
Starheim 183.
Stathelle 35.
Stavanger 91.
Stavangerfjoi-d 93.
INDEX.
479
Staven, Fjeld 198.
-, Hill 42.
Stavfjord (Foldenfjord)
248.
— (Fjjrdefjord) 17(J.
Stavilla 74.
Stavna-s 170.
Stavreviken 388.
Stakeholm 310.
StiikcsiJ 367.
Slaket 356. 3C7.
Stailberg 369.
.Stalldalen 369. 372.
Stanza 3G6.
Stauga, the 308. 3C'9.
Stangebro 308.
Stan^enas B5.
Stedfjord 219.
Stedje, (iaard 136.
Stcdtind 249.
Steen 23.
Steensljord 23.
Stegafjeld 149. 2 .0.
Ste'tianaase 139.
Stegane 201.
Stege 445.
Stegeborg 307.
Stegen {Engel0) 248.
Stegesffitre 139.
Stegfjord 238.
StesDlsvaiid 195.
Steliag 278.
Steie 136.
Stcilene 9.
Steiiibergdal 49.
Steindal 67.
Steiudals Elv 175.
Steine IU5.
Sleinsdal 1C5.
Steuinie 215.
Steui.shesten 215.
Sten %8.
Slenbjerg 221.
Stende 55.
Stene (Aurland) 49.
- i B0 247.
Stenegbrft 154.
Stenfjall 386.
Stenhanimar 311.
StenbviB 191.
Steninge 356.
Stenkjicr 227.
Stennii'S 198.
Sten.sa(fjeld 178.
Stensjaen 235.
Stensriul 61.
Stenstnrp 300.
Slenst<< 106.
Stensvig 216.
Stenuugso 85.
.Steuvaag 177.
Stenviken 75.
Stetind 153.
Stettin 440.
Stigtomta 371.
Stikle?tad 227.
Slilvasaa 237.
Stjarner^ 94.
Stjernarp 307.
Stjernbof 311.
Stjernjiolni 371.
StjeinfT .258.
Stjernsund 258.
Stjwdalen 226.
Stjetrdal.sfjord 225.
Stockarvd 279.
■Sioike. Gaaid 383.
Stockholm 314.
Academy of Arts 32'S.
— (if Science 329.
Adolf Fredriks Tors
344.
Albano 347.
Allmaima Grand 445.
Appeal Court 325.
Arfprin.sens Palai.'; 327.
Artilleri-Gard 32-!.
.\rt Union 328.
Banks 317.
Balbs 318.
lialte,'^pauna^c 312.
Bellman's Grave 32'J.
— Oak 345.
Bergskola .330.
Berzelii Park 328.
Biological Museum 345.
Birger JarLs Oatan 328.
Blasieholm 331.
Bredablick 346.
Brunkebergs-Torg 329.
Brunnsviken 348.
Caslle Island 342.
Cemetery 348.
Cliurclies:
AdoK-Fredriks .330.
Knglisb 319. 329.
Hedvig Eleonora 1)28,
.Jaki>bs 327.
Jiihannes 330.
Karl-Jc bans 342.
Kalarina 343.
Klara 329.
.Maria 344.
lUddarbiilms 326.
Solna-Kyrka 348.
Storkyrka 32.4
Tyska Kyrka 324.
Ulrika-Eleonora 344.
Citadel 342.
(onradsbers AsvUim
314.
Dalari) 350.
Djurgarden 344.
l>jurshiilm 349.
Itn.ttning-Gatau 32S.
lirottniniibolm 351.
Hcickbolm :
Environs 347.
Kxebange 324.
Fisbcrv Museum 318.
Freds-Gatan 328.
Frisens-Park 347.
Geolog. Museum 31S.
Governor's House 3"24.
Gripsbolm 342.
Gustaf-Ado]fs-Torg327.
Gustafsberg 350.
Gymnastic Instit. 329.
Haga 343.
Handtverkare-Gata 34i.
Ha.'i.'ielbacken 345.
Hel-eandsholm 320.
Iluspitals 344.
lUimlegard 330.
Kanonier-Kasein 3i2.
Karlberg 354.
Karl den Tolftes Tort;
327.
— Johans-Torg 343.
KarolinskaInstitut344.
Kastellbolmen 342.
Kalarina-Hi.ssen 343.
Kun.'stforeninu' : 28.
K(irnbamns-Torg 32j.
Kott-Torg 325.
Kungsbolmen 344.
Kungstradgard 327.
Ladugardslandsvik 3'28.
Langbolm 351.
Lifrust ocli Klad-Kam-
mare 322.
I.nualic Asylum 344.
Manilla 347.
Maria-Hissen 313.
Marieberg 351.
Maiiefred 352.
Miilaren, Lake 319.
347.
Malar-Torg 325.
Military Hospital 344.
Mint 344.
Monuments:
Bellman 347.
Berzelius 32S.
Birger Jarl 325.
Cbarles XU. 327.
— XIII. 328.
— XIV. John 343.
Ericsson , John and
>'ils 328.
liustavus Vasa 325.
— Adolphus 327.
— III. 323.
I.innteus 331.
< >xenstjerna 325.
Scbeele 331.
Jliiseliackeu 343.
Jfus.-backe-Torg 343.
Munkbro 325.
480
INDEX.
Stockholm :
Museum of Armour and
Costumes 322.
Mynt-Torg 320.
National Library 330.
— Museum 331.
Antiquities 33?.
Ceramic Coll 333.
Drawings 338.
Engravings 338.
Furniture and Dom-
estic Decoration335.
11 istorical Museum
331.
Natural History Col-
lections 329.
Picture Gallery 336.
Sculptures 334.
Naval School 342.
Nobel Fund 330.
Norrbro 320.
Noprmalmen 320.
Norrtulls-Gatan 348.
Northern Museum 329.
344.
Novilla 345.
NylH'ovik 3'J8.
Nyniishamn 350.
Observatory 330.
Opera House 327.
Ostermalm 328.
Palace, Royal 321.
Panoptikon 319.
Parkudden 347.
Post Office 173. 32?.
Kailvvay Station 314.
328.
Eadhus 325.
PLegerings-Gatan 327.
Itiddarholmen 325.
Piddarhus 325.
— Torg 325.
Kiks-Arkiv 325.
— Bibliotek 330.
Rosendal 346.
Saltsjobaden 349.
School of Mining 330
Seralimer-Lazaret 344.
Sjiikrigsskola 342.
Skansen 345.
Skating Club 342.
Skeppsbro 320.
Skeppsholmen 342.
Slottsbacken 323.
Slussen 320. 343.
Sodermalm 343.
Soder-Malar-Strand
343.
Sijderstrom 343.
Stables, Royal 328.
Staden 320.
Stadsgard 343.^
SlallmiistaregardenSiS.
■itiickholm :
Steamboats 314. 317.
Stora Ny-6ata 325.
Stor-Torg 324.
Strom-Gatan 3fii.
Stromparterre 315. 320.
Stromsborg 326.
Sture-Gatan 323.
Synagogue 328.
Technical School 329.
Telegraph Office 317.
Telephone Tower 329.
Theatres 318. 327. 328.
343. 344.
Tourists' Union 317.
Town Hall 325.
Tramways '315.
Tradgi^rds-Fiirening
346.
Ulriksdal 348.
Valhalla-Vag 331.
\'asabro 320.
Vasastaden 33U.
Vaxholm 350.
Viirtahamnen 348.
Stocksund 349.
Stokke (Sandefjord) 34.
— Sffiter 149.
Stokkevand 127.
Stokmarknfes 247.
Stok0 233.
Stoksund 233.
Stonganses 101.
Stora Djulo 311.
— Essingen 351.
— Lee 83.
— Lule-Elf 398.
Trask 403.
— Uor 282.
— Sjofallet 403.
— S'undbv 370.
— Tuna i375.
Stora 369.
Storbaeken 398. 401.
Storbakmoen 75.
Stordal 201. 140.
Stordalsn<T>s 2>l.
Stordalsvik 20i.
Stord0 100.
Store Aa 94.
— Aadal 166. 171.
— Bj^rga 236.
Storebj0rn 1(0.
Store Brre 13S.
Storebrsetind 153.
Storebrufos 51.
Store Cecilienkrona 186.
Storefond 41.
Store Graauaase 141.
— Grovbrse 159.
— Hest 179.
— Hinden 65.
— .luvbrip 159.
Store Knekiavand 48.
— Lid-Vand 95.
Stor-Elv 26. 182. 195.
— (Molde) 211.
Store-Melkedalsvand 174.
— MolUi 246.
Nordmansslipbet 43.
— Nup 41.
Kiingstind 156.
— Sikkilsdalsvand 169.
Soknefos 59.
— Standal 199. 203.
Sundfos 189.
Storfale 217. 218.
Storfjeld-SsHter 75.
Storljord (Lvngenfjord)
202. 267.
— (S0ndm0re) 195.
— (Velfjord) 236.
Storfond 175.
Storfors 377.
Storfos (Marok) 193. Iii6.
(Tana-Elv) 258.
Stor-F<isen 233. 216.
Storfoshei 237.
Storgaldeu 161.
Storglanebba 212.
Stor Halleren 152.
Storhaug 134. 136.
Storhfetten 209.
Storhest 207.
Slorholm 400.
Storhorn 194. 199.
Storhougfjeld 136.
Storhougs Vidde 144.
3torh0i 70.
Storjord 238.
Storlien (Steter, near
Maursoet) 44.
— (Sweden) 386. 226.
Stormdalsfos 238.
Stormdalshei 238.
Stornaase 140.
Stornes 236.
Storusholmen 62.
Storsand 39S.
StorStEter 70.
Storsieterfos 197.
Storsjo (Gefle) 378.
— (Jemtland) 310. 382.
Storsj0 (Hallingdal) 40.
Storskaal 256.
Storskarven 77.
Storstensfjeld 25.
StorstenncfS (Balsfjord)
252.
— (Tromsdal) 253. 255.
Storstr0m 241.
Stor-Sund (Hardanger)
102.
Storsund(NorrbottPu)39tt.
Storsveen 51.
Storsylen 386.
INDEX.
481
Stortoppen 242.
Storlungen 208.
Stoi-vaagen 246.
Storvand 2C0.
Sturvik (Sweden) Sil.
380.
— (Vaagevand) 60.
Stor-Vreta 378.
Stcidesjo 386.
St0dt 239.
St^en (Cliristiansand) 7.
— i Kvikne 73.
Stolen 135.
St0lsmaradal»bri« 156.
St0lsnaastind 150.
Slalsnusi 57. 16J.
St0njumsfos CO.
St0i-en 77. 74.
Starlaugpig 184.
Stoviken 389.
Straabcrkollen t;6.
Stralsuiid 440.
Strand (Oldenvand) 186.
— (Stavanger) 94.
— (Strandefjord) 54.
— i Vraadal 38.
Sli-ande (Fanefjurd) 210.
Slrandebarm 104.
Strandedal 201.
Strandetjiird{(Auidal) 55.
— (Hallingdal) 47.
— (Vantc) £6.
— , 0vre 48.
Stranden 201.
Strandheia 208
Strandsfu.s UU.
Strandtind 248.
Stray 4.
Striken 394.
Stra'ngen 38.
Straken, Lake 3t'3.
Stralsnas 308.
StrangsjiJ 311.
Strengniis 354.
Strib 442.
Striberg 314.
Strindefjurd 225.
Strondafjeld 145.
Str^ren, Lake 45.
Str0iu (Skjer-itadfjiird)
241.
Strom (Sweden) 389.
Str^mhylla 227.
Str0mmegjii-rdet 202.
Str0uinien (Hantmerfest)
259.
— (Lillestr0nimeu) 60.
— ( riMndbieiu.s Kjurd)
227.
Slr0iu0 241.
Striinisbri) 379.
Str0m.ihavn 183.
StviiiusUulm 368.
Bakdkkkk's Ni)r\vav
Stromsliolm Canal 368.
S(r0m3horn 202.
Str0msnies 258.
Stromsnas (Indal) 383.
Stromsnasbruk 284.
Str0ms0 24.
Str6m.<=tad 84.
StriimGuud 403.
Strijmsvatn 34.
3tr0mvand 171.
Struer 449.
Strvnsdal 189.
Stryns-Elv 188.
Strynskaupe 190.
Strvnsvand 189.
Stuenoten 210. 71.
Stuen (J0rrkedal) 73.
Slugsund 3S0.
Stugubyn o88.
Stugun0se 57.
Stugusund 391.
Stumsnas 377.
Sturefors 309.
Sturehof, Chateau 352.
Stygfjeld 75.
Styggebrse 158.
Styggedalsbotn 156. 175
Stvgscedalsbrse 1.56. 175.
Styggedals-Elv 174.
Styggedalsnaasi 175.
Stvggedalstind 156. 175
Styggefondfos 209.
Styggeh0 172.
Sty mils 394.
Styve 138.
Sukkertop (Hav0) 26.1.
— (Hessen) 177.
Sulafjeld 234.
Suldalen 96.
Suldalsosen 96.
SiiMal.sporten 96.
SuldaLsvand 96.
Sulefjord 203.
Svileu-J0fer 131.
Suletind 58.
Sulheini, Gaard 157.
Sulheims-Sctter 173.
Sulitelma 242.
Sul0 177. 200. 202.
Sulstuen 226. 384. 385.
Sund (Ldfiiten) 245.
— (Triindbjeius-Fj(ird)
227.
Sundal (Mauraniiertjurd)
103.
— (Nurdfjord) 189.
— (Ncirdm0re) 217.
Sundalen 189.
Sundals-Elv 195. 217.
Sundalsfjurd 217.
Siindals0ren 217.
Sundabs-Sieter 189.
Sundalsvand 48.
and Sweden. 8th Edit
Sundby 243.
Sundbyberg 367.
Sunde (Hardanger) UkK
l01deuvand)"l8G.
(Snaasenvand) 227.
Sunde (Strvnsvand) 189.
SundebriB 140. 180.
Suuderby 391.
Sundet 383.
Sundhellerfjeld 49.
Sundkile 38.
Sundli 252.
•Sundre i Aal 47.
Sund-Sseter 104. 171.
Sundstr0m 241. 245.
Sund.svall 392.
Sundvidden 22.
Sunelvafjord 195. 200.
Sunnan^ S3.
Sunne 313.
Suoppanjarga 258.
SuphellebrEe 135.
Suphelledal 135.
Suphelle Gaard 135.
Surendal 219.
Surendals0ren 219.
Surte 293.
Susea 286.
Svaagen 9S.
Svaah0 67.
Svaanut 48.
Sv;iidalsbi-!L' 154.
Svalnf 275.
Svana 367.
Svandal 95.
Svandal.stlaaene 42.
Svanesund 85.
Svancin 394.
Svarstad 194.
Svarta 314.
-, the 308. 363. 3G9.
Svartberg 3ii.
Svarlliytdal 67.
Svarldal 165.
Svartdalsaaxle 105.
Svarldalsglup 105.
Svartdalspig 165.
Svai-td0la 105.
Svartediget 122.
Svartegjelsfos 59.
Svartenut 110.
Svarlevand 208.
Svarlevandstiiid 184.
Sva.thovd 218.
Svartisen 239.
Svartla 398.
Svartiisund 403.
Svartsi) 355.
Svartsundtinder 247.
Svartvikfjeld 51.
Svai-varnut 5.
SvuTofjord 134.
SvuTen. Gaard 134.
31
482
INDEX.
SvDerboltklubben 2&2.
Sva!i-8kard 131.
Svedala 274.
Sveen (Dalsfjord) 178.
— (Valders) "54.
Sveien 41.
Sveilnaasi 157. 172.
Sveilnaaspig 157.
Svendborg 443.
S veil 6 43.
Svenesund 42.
Sveningsdal 235.
Svennses 55.
Svennevad 310.
Svenn0rfyr S
Svensbro 3tO.
Svensh^i 154.
Svenskenipa 181.
Svenskenvand 4U. 55.
Svei-resti 129.
Sviddal ISO.
Svinesund 83. 84.
Svingaardsbotten 49.
Svinta 43.
Svolvier 240. 248.
Svolvffirjura 240.
Svonaa 72.
Sya 308.
Sydkrog<< 233.
Syd-Varangei- 2C0.
Sylarne 385.
Sylte 200. 2U6.
Svltefjord SG3.
Syltevik 195.
Syltormen 200.
Sylvarna;s 132.
Synsnib 180.
Synstaalkirke 08.
Syrdalsfjeld 139.
Systveit 4.
Svvajarvi 207.
Syv S0stre 230. 195.
Taarnfjeld 217.
Taasinge 443.
Taberg 302.
Tabmok-Elv 251.
Tafjord 201.
Talg0 94.
Tallasen 381.
Talvik 253.
Tarjs«( 202.
Tana 285.
Tana-El V 258. 205.
Tanafjord 263.
1'anahorn 203.
Tande 62.
Tangen 24. 34. 01.
Tanto 312.
Taimm 85. 22.
Tarjebudal 42.
Tarra Hut 400.
Tarrajock 4(X).
Tarv-0er 233.
Tiing 383.
Tiinnfors 385.
Tannsjo 385.
Tagarp 275.
Tangen 85.
Tecicoinatorp 275.
Tefsjo 380.
Tesefors 385.
Teidal 132.
Teigen 145. 225.
Telemarken 30.
Telnaes 70.
Tenipervold 225.
Tenhult 301.
Terna 367.
Terningiuoen 74.
Ter0 101.
Te9.se-Elv 06.
Tessevand CO.
Tevlan 3S6.
Thes,sen, I.Jke 173.
This ted 449.
Thj0t0 230.
Thordal OS.
Tborfinsdal 105.
Thorlin.shul 105.
Thorlinstind 164.
Thorfinvand 106.
Thorn ws 97.
Thorshalla 370. 311.
Thorskors 2?0.
Tborsnut 105. 107.
Thorso i9-^.
Thorstadnakken 137.
Thorstrand 35.
Thorvik 212.
Tho3botn 235.
rUosdal, Gaard 235.
Tliosenfjui'd 235.
Tboten 61.
Thi-enen 238.
Throndenas 250.
Tbrondhjeiu, see TroniV
hjem.
Thveit, Gaard 113.
— i Aardal 94.
Tiakersjci 83.
Tibbleberg 375.
Tidan 300.
Tidingdal 236.
Tidingdalsfo.s 236.
Tierp 378.
Tierpsa 378.
Tillberga 307.
Tlltereid 211.
Tilthorn 248.
Time 91.
Tiudefjeld 190.
TindetjeldsbrlP 1S9. 190
Tin-Elv 29.
Tiuto.s 29.
TinglelV 442.
Tingstade 360.
Tingvallaii 313.
Tino.set 30.
Tin.sj0 30.
Tistedalen tr3.
Tistedal.s-Elv 81. 82.
Tiveden 300.
Tjifll0 249.
TjwUsund 249.
Tjamotes 399.
Tjelde 211.
Tjei-na 375.
Tjernagel 100.
Tjoloholm 2.S7.
Tjongsfjoi-d 239.
Tjose 35.
Tj^lling 35.
rj0m0 8. 34.
Tjbrn 85.
Tjugedal 187.
Tjuguui 133.
Tjukuingssuen 170
Tjust 310.
Tobo 378.
T()dals0ren 219.
roftabougsttde 137.
Tofte 09.
Toftemoen 69.
Toke-Elv 33. 39.
Tokevand 7.
Tokheim 103. 109.
Tokheimsnut 104. 108.
Toldaa 238.
Toldaadal, Xedve & Jt^vie
23S.
Tulfstad 00.
Tolgen 70.
Tollarp 278.
Tolleifsrud 51.
Tom 287.
Tomb«r 238.
Tomelilla 274.
Tomleberg 292.
Toiulevolden 54.
Tomniasgaard 194.
Tomtei- 8(J. ^
Tomtnipa 339.
Tondern 442.
Tongjem 213.
Toning 185,
Tonsaas 54.
Topdalsfjord 3.
Toppen 210.
Topsladfjeld 241.
Torahella 105.
Turbak 434.
Torbuvaud 217.
Torena's-Sieter 134.
Torenut 105.
Torgauten 8.
Torgen 235.
Torghatten 235.
Tciniea, 404.
INDEX.
483
Turne-Klf 268. 404.
Tornelrask 403.
Torpa 287.
Torpe 47.
Torpsbaiumur 386.
Torpsjo 386.
Torsa'kcr 380. 391.
Torsiis 280.
Tor.sbv-Biuk 313.
Torsokilen 80.
Tortuna 367.
Torup 274. 286.
Torvig 2L6.
Torvl^isa 200.
To.ster6 354.
Totakvand 31.
Toten 133.
Totthummeln 331.
Toil 94.
Tovmodalen 226.
Tofva 386.
T0icn 52.
T0i)imernpps 249.
T0njum 60. 139.
Tt-iina 76.
Tgrnnen 73.
T0ns?et 76.
T0nsberg 34.
Tensbergs Temdc 8.
Tore 403.
Torcboda 299. 300.
T0rvik-Niit 101.
T0ssc(Aadland,sfjoH|lU8.
T(issc (DalslandJ 371.
T0Ua 249.
Traae 126.
Train yr 228.
TranS's 308.
Trancryd 308.
Trana i Hammer 2i8.
Trtrdal 132. 217.
Tr«-le 101.
TrSnfe'for.s 368. 390.
Trangsviken 388.
Trehorniujisjo 39*^'.
Trekanten 280.
Trekarn 377.
Trelleborg 274.
Trengereid 124.
Tresfjord 204. 206.
Tresiiut 114.
Tre S^nre 199.
Tret ten 63.
Trodalscg 131.
Troldfjurd 247.
Troldfjordsund 2C0.
Trold^0l 199.
Troldheimcn 219.
Troldkirkc 206.
Troldsti.le 207.
Troldtinder 202. 247.
248:
Troldvand 135. 247.
Trollabruk 225.
Trollhiilfan 293.
TroUvand 255.
Troiii0 7.
Troni0siind 7.
Tronisdal '2bd.
Tromsdalstind 254.
Tromsna'3 63.
Tr()ms0 252.
Tronis03und 252.
Tronfes 106.
Trondhjem 219.
— , Plads 54.
Trondhjemsledcn 215.
Tronfjeld 76.
Tronhusfjeld 51.
Tronstad 195.
Trusa 312.
Tr0ene 209.
rr0ndelagen 221.
Tronninge 285.
Tryggestad 195.
Trvggesladnakkcn 197.
Trygstad 90.
Tryvandsh0ide 21.
Tuddal 32.
Tuefjord 261.
Tuffen 154.
Tufte 47.
— Elv 42.
Tuftf. 43.
TiiUgani 312.
Tumba 312.
Tuna 3S6.
Tundal 137.
Tundredal 67.
Tundredal.skirkc 67. 141
154.
TundrcdalsSfcter 154.
Tungen 44. 225.
TungcniPS 91.
Tungepigge 166.
TungesEEter 210.
Tungboug 152.
Tunold 189.
Tunsbergdal.sbrm 145.
Tun.<bergdal.s-Elv 145.
Tunvald 179.
Tunvaldfield 179.
Turlegr0 155.
Tussefos 197. 199.
Tussenut 199.
Tusscvand 197.
Tusten 20).
Tu3ter0 215.
Tuslervand 236.
Tu.svik 202.
Tutcr0 225.
Tvivraadal 67. 144.
Tviiriiadal<bra- 67.
Tviiraliind 3'JO.
TviirboMenliorn 153.
Tvarbnc 145.
Tvpprdal 154.
Tvanrfjeld 67.
Tvaakcr 286.
Tvcdcstrand 7.
Tveit i Anrdal 94.
- (Simodal) 113.
Tveitafo.s 107.
Tveitc Kviting 104.
Tveitcn 33.
Tveitnut 108.
Tvcraa, Nordre & S^ndre
170.
Tveiab0fo,t 193.
Tverbrre 157.
Tverfjelde 206.
Tvervik 241.
Tvinde 128.
Tvindefos 128.
Tvindebougen 161.
Tvingstrup 415.
Tydal 225.
Tyfte 218.
Tyin, Lake 161.
Tyinsholmen 161.
Tvnnelso 354.
rVrifjord 22. 25.
Tvsdalsvand 94.
Tysfiord 219.
Tv.snK>s0 100. 101.
Tyssaa 103. 110. 115. 127.
Tyssedal 108. 110.
Tyssedals-"Nut 108.
Ty.ssestrenge 111.
Ty.stigbrae 191.
Ty(la.nd.svik 94.
Tvven 260.
Tyvold 77.
Tyvshellercn 237.
tJberg 7.
Uddeholm 372.
Uddevalla 85.
Uddnas 368.
Uglehaug 212.
Ula 68.
Uladal 172.
Uladal.<;band 172.
Uladalsraynncf 172.
riad.alstinder 171.
Ulefns 37. 32.
Ulcvaavand 41.
Ulevasbotten 49.
Uleva,snut 49.
Ulf0 217.
Ulfsfjord 255.
nifstind 255.
UUHnger 395.
Ullenhaug 93.
Ullensvang 107.
Ullersiifer 369.
l'llveUern-.Sjo 377.
Ulnn-s 55.
Ulricehanin 303.
31*
484
INDEX.
I'Irikrn 123.
rii-iksdal 318.
Ulsakcr 46.
ristenkloflter 90.
Ulstrup 450.
nituna 357.
Ulvaa 210.
Xllvedalsvand 210.
Xilvenvand 124.
mvestad 134.
Ulvesund 176.
tllvik 114.
Ulvlkfjord 114.
lllvin 61.
Umea 395.
Urae-Elf 390. 305.
Indals-Elv 90.
Tnderdal 139.
UndersS,ker 384.
V'nheim 208.
Unna 399.
Uppharad 293.
Upsala 357.
— , Gainla 361.
Urabjerg 152.
Uradal 152.
T'radalsmulen 151.
Urad0la 152.
Uranaasbrie 103.
Uranaase 163.
Uranaastind 152.
Urdviken 4.
lire 245.
Urebjerget 245.
iTebotn 104.
Urke 199.
Urkedal 199.
Urnfes 142. '
XJrsviken 396.
Urtfjeld 238.
Urtvand 237.
Urunda-Elv 48.
Uskedal 102.
llstadal 43. 47.
Ustadals-Elv 47.
ITstavand 47. 48.
IJstetind 47.
Utanede 387. 389.
Iltb0en 32.
Utfjord 184.
Utigaard 214.
Utigardsfos 188.
Utia 149. 152. 174.
Utladal 150. 152.
— , Vetle 152.
Utmeland 376.
Utne 106.
Utnefjord 106.
Uto 350.
ITtrovand 57.
Utsire 99.
nttersberg 368.
Utti 75.
t'lvikcn 184. 182.
Utvikfjord 184.
Vaae 30.
Vaage (Suldalsvand) 07.
— (Ty,=infcs0) 101.
(Vaagevand) 66.
Vaageboden 168.
Vaagekalle 246.
Vaagen (Lofoten) 246.
Vaagestrand 206.
Vaagevand (Gudbrands-
dal) 66.
— (Nordland) 240.
Vaags^ord (Vesleraalen)
249. 250.
Vaagsli Hotel 41.
Vaagg0 176.
Vaalandsbaug 93.
Vaalefos 186.
Vaafedal 181.
Vaberg 299.
Vackmyra 378.
Vadheim 132. 178.
Vadheimsdal 178.
Vadheims^jord 132.
Vadsbo 300.
Vadsbro 371.
Vads0 (Finmarken) 264.
— (Stavanger) Oi.
Vadstena 305.
Vafos 41.
Vagastind 253.
Vagge 265.
Vaggeryd 284. 2S6.
Vagsvik 201.
Vaiadjuvet 6
Vaikijaur 399.
Vaikijaure 399.
Vakern 377.
Vaksala 335.
Valavik 111.
Valbo 378.
Valdai 200.
Valde 94.
Valdemaren, l^ake 311.
Valder0 177.
Valders .50. 54.
Valdersflyen 171.
Valdei-sbnrn 61.
Valder3und 233.
Valegas-.Tavre 26).
Valla 311.
Vallagjerdet-Speter 143.
VaUSkra 275.
Vallavik 111.
Vallberga 2^5.
Vallbo 384.
Vallispiken 400.
Vall0 8.
Vallsta 380.
Valskog 368. 370.
Vamdrup 442.
V'amitiolu, Lake 311.
Van 376.
Vanas 278.
Vanddal 145.
Vanclven 177.
Vanelvsfjord 177.
Vanelvsgabet 177.
Vang 56.
Vangsen 145.
Vangsmj0sen 56.
Vangsntes (Sognefjordl
1.33. 136.
Vang.svand 106. 125.
Vannenvand 46.
Vann0 255.
Vansbro 376.
Vara 292.
Varalds0 103.
Varanger Fjord 265.
Varberg (Eidfjord) 112.
(.Sweden) 286.
Vardefjeld 264.
Vardekolle 23.
Vardesj0 72.
Vardetoppen 242.
Vardkassen 393.
Vard0 264.
Vard0hus 264.
Varhol 206.
Va-holmens-Sund 86.
Varjag-Njarga 263.
Varnliems-Kyrka 300.
VarnumsvJk 313.
Varpen-Sio 380.
Vartdal 203.
Vartofta 303.
Varvek Hut 4C0.
Vasarajarvi 401.
Vasbotnfjeld 243.
Vasbygd 139.
Vasbygdvand 50. 139.
Vasdalseggen 41.
Vasdals-Elv 42.
Vasenden (Breum.svand
181.
— (Gravensvand) 127.
— (Loenvand) 187.
Vasendenfos 110.
Vasends-Sseter 46.
Vasfjseren 114. 115.
Vashoved 252.
Vasli 53.
Vassbakken 299.
Vassbotten 296.
Vasselhyttan 3S9.
Vass-Sicter 43.
Vasvendingen 191.
Vat]estr0mnien 101.
Vatnahalsen 130.
Vatne 204.
Vatne-Vand 203.
Vatsaa.9 235.
Vatshus 96.
INDEX.
485
V.-»lsvriid.Ul 191.
Vatsvpndpgg 192.
Vattpnbvtiden 242.
Vatlliolma 378.
Va.tti"in 3S6.
Vaxdal 124.
Vaxholm 350.
Viidcroar S5.
Vfefds 110.
Vafver.sunda 305.
Vfegcn 236.
Vteglikirke 43.
Vange 374.
Vannas 390.
Vserholm 132.
Varing 300.
Vwrmofos 209.
Vkt0 (Lofoten) 245.
— (S/Jndfjord) 176.
Vasby 355.
Viise 313.
Vastanback 389.
VSrgSrda 300.
Veberod 274.
Veblung.<5n8e.s 207.
Veda 393.
Vcdbfek 484.
Vedev3g 369.
Vednisfjeld 56.
Vef.senfjord 236.
Veftingcn; Lake 368.
Vegehiilm 285.
Vegge 96.
Veggerl0se 441.
Vegsund 202.
Veile 445.
Veileljord 445.
Veinge 285.
Veirhalden 20i. 199.
Veisten 63.
Veiteitrandsskar 135.
Veitcstrandsvand 142.
Velanda 293.
Veldre 62.
Veiyord 236.
Velle 202.
Velledal 202.
Vellesicterhorn 202.
Vemelsvik 183.
Vendel 378.
Vcndolso Fjord 2>7.
Venern, Lake 296.
Vener.'borg 296.
Vengc 208
Vengedal 208. 209.
Vengelinder 20J.
Vennesla 4.
Vensct 242.
Veo-Elv 65.
Ve«r 211..
Verafos 127.
Verdal 226. 227.
Verdals0ren 227.
Vorlo i Utviken 181.
Vcrmelen-Sio 313.
Vermland 372.
Vei-mlandsbi-o 372.
Verralands Ramen 377.
Vcrnamo 284. 286.
Veslea 56.
Vesle Aadal 165. 166.
— Bygdal 189.
Veslefjeld 170.
Veslehiirn 46.
Vesle0la 49.
Vessuian, Lake 372.
Vest ad 206.
VestanCors 367. 368.
Vestarfors 369.
Vestby 80.
Vestenfjeldske Norge 43
90.
Vesteraalen Islands 244
Vesteraasbrte 197.
Vesteraasdal 193. 197.
Vesteras 367.
Vesterbottenslan390.395.
Vesterby 367
Vcsternorrlands Liin 392.
Vesterqvarn 368.
Vestervik 310. 282.
Vestfjord 243. 248.
-r- Dal 30. #
Vestfossen 27.
Vestgarde 377.
Vestnfe.s 208.
Vestra Dal-Elf 376.
— Qvarken 395.
Vestre Slidre 55.
Vestvaag0 245.
Vestvftr 246.
Veta-Aas 60.
Vetanaase 141.
Vetlefjord 134.
Vetlefjordsbrw 134.
\'etlenibhen 145.
Vetlevand 111.
Vetljuvbrje 158.
Vettern, Lake 304.
Vettersborg 305.
Vetti, (iaard 150.
Vettisfos 150.
Vettisgalder 150.
Vettisgjel 150.
Vcttismorka-Sct'ler 150.
Veum 5.
Vexio 2S0.
Vexnan.ijo 3S1.
Viavande. 192.
Viborn 450.
Viby 441.
Victoriahavn 249.
Viddal 199.
Videdal 1S9. 190.
Vtde.s.Tter 191.
Vjdo.stern 284.
Vic. 228.
Viefjeld 179.
Vicrbotlen 49.
Vifstavarf 388.
Vigdal 144.
Vigdals-Saetcr 144.
Vigd0la 145.
Vigeland 4.
Vighals 216.
Vigten 234.
Vik i Eidfji.rd 111.
— (Folsj0) 28.
— (Helgeland) 235.
— i Nisserdal 38.
— (Sognefjord) 132.
— (Steensfjord) 23.
— (Suldalsvand) 96.
— (Viksvand) 178.
Vika 376.
Vikarbyn 377.
Vikebugt 107. 206.
Vikedal 96. 142.
Viken (Eikisdal) 213.
— (Merakerbane) 225.
— (Tresfjord) 206.
— i Valle 5.
— , Lake 299.
Viker 51.
Vikersvik 314.
Vifffesakisen 213.
Vikesund 25.
Vikevik 100.
Vikhohnen 238.
Vikingn8e.s 105.
Vikmanshvtian 374.
Vik0r 105."
Vikgdal 134.
Viks/grren 132.
Viksvand 1,34. 178.
Villand, Gaard 48.
Vllure 107.
Vimmerby 232.
Vimo 376.
Vintes 106.
Vindaashorn 193.
Vindal.sbugt 34.
Vindalskinn 218.
Vindaxel 111.
Vindedal 140. 141.
Vindedals .Sreter 140.
Vinde-Elv 163.
Vindefjord 96.
Vindeggen 32.
Vindel-Elf 390.
Vindeln 390.
Vindenip 450.
Vindhelle 59.
Vind^la 21.S.
Vindreggen 133.
VingSker 301.
Vinger 79.
Vingers0 79.
VingnR'S 62.
486
INDEX.
VinJR (Slvnf;sfjc)rd)
201.
— (Vinjevand) 33.
— i Vossestranden l','S.
Vinjefosser 217.
Vinjevand 33.
Vinkefjdrd 248.
Vinsnrcs 55.
Vinstra 04. 168.
Vintjarn 3S0.
Vinstra, the 73. 164. 168.
171. •
Vintertun 100.
Viren 301.
Virsbo 367.
Virumdal 217.
Visa 172. 173.
Visby 363.
Visdal 153. 172.
Visdals-Sprtre 173.
Visingsborg 304. "
Visingso 30i.
Viskafors 286.
Viskan 3S6.
Vislanda 279.
Vismen, Lake 313.
Visnws 185.
Vistad 16S.
Vistakulle 303.. ^
Vistdal 212.
Vistdalsfjelde 212.
Vittangi'404.
Vitlinge 374.
Vittingfo.s 34.
Voldbo 163.
Voldedal 139.
Voldcn (Gudbrandsdal)
66.
— (Vestrc Slidrr) 55.
— (Voldenfjordi 203.
Voldenfjord 203.
Vnldfjeld 240.
Voldsifiter 195.
Vombsjo 274.
Vora 181.
Vordingborg 441.
Vormelid-Sreters 151.
Vormen 80. 79.
Vorvik 96.
Voss 125.
Vosse-Elv 125.
Vosseskavl 115.
Vosse.strands-Elv 128.
Vos.sevangen 125.
Voxenkollen 21.
Voxli Hotel 41.
Voxlivand 41.
Voxna-Elf 330.
Voxtorp 282.
V0ringsfos 112.
Vraa 446.
Vraavand 38. 3D.
Vrams-Gunnarstorp
275.
Vrpnefns 37.
Vrena371: *■ - •
Vreta Kloster 307.
Vretstorp 301.
Vuludals-Elv 68.
Vuluvand 68.
Vuolla-Njunncs 258.
Vuollerim 398.
Vuorie-Tjokk 258.
Vyskje 380.
Warncmiinde 441.
Wein 83.
Wiaby 363.
Woyens 442.
Ydby 449.
Ylensvand 217.
Ymesfjeld 153. 153.
Yngcn-Sjo 377.
Yngvar Kicl.sens Tind
189. 190.
Yri, Gaards 186.
Yrinib 186.
YrUefjoid 90.
Ystad 274.
Ysttinder 204.
Ytrc Bakken 138.
Ytredal 200. 197.
Ytre Dale 178.
— Eide 183.
— Fr/ifningen 140.
— Kroken 143.
— Samlen 105.
— Viaten 234.
YtterSn 383.
Ytterdals-Ssetre 153.
Ytter0 225.
YtteVgfjord 28T.
Ytter Selao 354.
Yxlandsvand 178.
Zarijokjavro 258.
Zaurisstue 258.
Zealand 440.
Leipsic : Printed by Urcitkopf & Hartel,
u.
; A \\
. lJ<aUUui Jj, ^ .
■ .1
' III II " "nntir"''"'"
jTaJty
Tort,
i
iiiiiiiiiiiiiiijiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii^
Sketch
of
Norwegian and Swedish
Grrammar^
with
Yocabalary and List of Phrases.
Contents.
I. The Language of Norway.
II. The Language of Sweden.
III. Vocabulary.
IV. Short and Useful Phrases.
This cover may be detached from the rest of the hook
by severing the yellow thread which will be found between
pp. 24, 25.
t-
I. Language of Norway (and Denmark).
The Gothic tribes of Aryan or Indo-European origin -who set-
tled in Scandinavia, probably about the beginning of the Christian
era, if not earlier, appear all to have spoken a common language
called the Norrana Mdl, afterwards known as the Donsk Tunya.,
the history of which is not distinctly traceable farther back than
the 9th or 10th century. That language, now known as Icelandic,
or the Old Northern Tongue, and called by the Norwegians Old
Norsk, was carried to Iceland by the Norwegians who settled there
in the 9th century, and it has there been preserved in its original
purity and vigour down to the present day, while on the mainland
it gradually \inderwent modification and split into several distinct
dialects , of which modern Swedish and modern Danish are now
the most important. The history of the language of Norway be-
tween the colonisation of Iceland and the incorporation of Norway
with the kingdom of Denmark towards the end of the 14th century
is involved in obscurity, but the dialects spoken in different parts
of the country probably continued closely akin to the primitive
'Old-Norsk'. In Denmark the original 'Donsk Tunga' had meanwhile
undergone considerable alteration , as is shown by the Skaanske
Lov and the Sjailandske Lov, promulgated in 1162 and 1171 re-
spectively, the gutturals and other consonants having been some-
what moditied and softened, and the inflections simplified. From
the year 1387, when Queen Margaret, the 'Northern Semiramis',
was crowned queen of Norway , dates the introduction of the
Danish language into the sister country. Between that date and
the year 1814, when Norway was severed from Denmark and united
with Sweden, the Norwegians had enjoyed a considerable degree
of political independence, but their ancient language was gradu-
ally superseded by that of the dominant race , which was used by
the government officials and adopted by the upper classes gener-
ally, although a number of dialects descended from the 'Old-Norsk"
speech continued to be spoken in the remoter districts , chiefly by
the uneducated classes. At the present day, therefore, the language
of the country is Danish, although the natives prefer to call it
'Norsk' ; but it is pronounced with greater vigour and distinctness
than by the Danes themselves, and it is enriched with a con-
siderable number of words derived from the old provincial dialects,
which greatly enhance its interest. Like other languages of the
Teutonic stock, Danish has admitted many Romanic and other
foreign words to the rights of citizenship , such as genere sig (se
gener), Kandiddt (candidate), Kontor (comptoir), Krittk (critique),
I
2 I. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY.
KvartEr (quarter), Prast (presbyter); but some of these have
been introduced more from fashion than necessity, and words of
purely native grov?th are to be found in every branch of art and
science. The following lines by Norwegian poets may be quoted
here as a specimen of the modern language common to Norway
and Denmark : —
'Min norske Vinter er saa vakker: 'Ja! herligt er mit F«rdeland,
De hvide snebedsekte Bakker Den gamle klippefaste Norge,
Og gr^nne Gran med pudret Haar Med Sommerdal og Vinterborge,
Og trofast Is paa dybe Vande Der evig trodser Tidens Tand.
Og Engledragt paa n^gne Strands Om Kloden rokkes end, dets Fjelde
Jeg bytter neppe mod en Vaar". Skal Stormen dog ej kunne fneide'.
/. Jf. Brun. S. 0. Wolff.
Literal translation:
Literal translation : Yes ! glorious is my native land,
My Norwegian winter is so beauti- the ancient cliff-bound Norway, with
ful : the white, snow-clad hills, and summer valley and winter fastness,
green pines with powdered hair, and which ever defies the tooth of time,
stedfast ice on deep lakes, and angel- Even if theglobebeshaken, the storm
garb on barren shores, I would hardly shall be unable to overthrow its
exchange for spring. mountains.
A knowledge of the language of the country will conduce ma-
terially to the travellers comfort and enjoyment. English is spoken
at the principal resorts of travellers and by the captains of most of
the steamboats, but on the less frequented routes and particularly
at the small country-stations the native tongue alone is understood.
The traveller should, therefore, endeavour to learn some of the most
useful and everyday phrases which he is likely to require on his
journey. Those who are already acquainted with German or Dutch
will find the language exceedingly easy and interesting, as the great
majority of the words of which each of these languages consists
are derived from the same Gothic stock as Danish. A still higher
vantage-ground is possessed by those who have studied Icelandic,
or even the kindred Anglo-Saxon, the former being the direct an-
cestor of the language of Norway. Those, on the other hand, who
are tolerably proficient in Swedish, will understand and be under-
stood with little difficulty in Norway, though less readily in Den-
mark. Conversely, the traveller who has learned Danish with the
Norwegian accent will generally find it intelligible to Swedes, and
will himself understand Swedish fairly well ; but Danish acquired
in Denmark will be found somewhat unsatisfactory in Sweden.
The traveller who takes an interest in the language , which
throws light on many English words, and particularly on English
and Scottish provincialisms, should be provided with both an Eng-
lish-Danish (Rosing's, Copenhagen) and Danish-English dictionary
( Ferr all ^' Repp's, Copenhagen), and with Ivar Aasen's copious and
instructive 'Norsk Ordbog' (Christiania). Kask's Grammar, Fraders-
dorff' s Practical Introduction , and Bojesen's Guide are also re-
commended to the notice of students of Danish. For the use of
ordinary travellers, however, the following outline of the grammar
I. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY. 3
and the vocabularies, though necessarily brief and imperfect, will
probably suffice.
Pronunciation. The Consonants and their pronunciation are
nearly all the same as in English ; but f at the end of a word is
pronounced like v; g before e and i and at the end of a syllable is
often pronounced like the consonantal y; J is pronounced like the
consonant y; k before e, i, j, y, a, and 0 is (in Norway) pronounced
like the English t followed by the consonant y, or nearly like the
English ch; sk before the same vowels is (in Norway) pronounced
like the English sh; while c (like s before c, /, y, cp, and 0, and
like fc before a, 0, u, and aa), q, x, and s are used in words of foreign
origin only. The chief irregularities are that d at the end or in the
middle of a word is gi-nerally mute, as Fladbr0d (pron. Flabre),
sidst (pron. sist), kalde (pron. kalle), hende (pron. henne); g at the
end of a syllable is often inaudible, as deilig (pron. dyli), farlig
(pron. farli), while eg is softened to ei, as jeg (pron. jy), egen
(pron. yen), and, in conversation, mig, dig, sig are corrupted to
my, dy, sy; lastly, in det (it), the t is usually mute (pron. de), and
de (they) is pronounced di.
The Vowels a, e, and i are pronounced (as in French and Ger-
man) ah, eh, ee; 0 is pronounced like 0 (as in hole), and when
short it is like the short English 6 (in hot), but less open ; ai, ei,
oi are pronounced as diphthongs; u, when long, is like the ii in
lute, and when short it resembles (in Norway) the French eu or
the English i in bird; y, when long, is like the French u, and
when short it is indistinguishable from the short 0. The sound
of aa (Swedish a) is that of the English a in all; ce is like e, but
more open (as in where); 0, sometimes written 0, has the sound of
the German 6 or the French eu. These last two letters are placed
at the end of the alphabet, a peculiarity which eonsulters of a Dan-
ish dictionary must b>^ar in mind. — Those who have studied
French or German will have no difficulty with the y and the 0, but
it is not so easy to catch the precise sound of the short Norweg-
ian u.
Genders. There are two genders, the common (including mas-
culine and feminine) and the neuter.
Articles. The Inukfinitb is en (c.) or et (u. ; pron. it), as en
Mand (a man), en Kvinde (a woman), et Barn (a child).
The Definite is den (c), det (n.), de (pi.), which forms are
used almost exclusively when an adjective intervenes between the
article and the substantive, as den gode Mand (the good man), det
unge Barn (the young child), de gumle Konger (the old kings).
When immediately connected with its substantive , the definite
article is -en or -n, -et or -(, and -ne or -ene, added as an affix to
the substantive, as Manden (the man), Barnet (the child), Kongerne
(the kings), Gaardene (the farm-houses).
4 I. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY.
Substantives. Until of late, substantives have generally been
spelled with an initial capital, but they are now, with the exception
of proper names, more commonly spelled with small letters. The
genitive, both singular and plural, usually ends in s, as Kongens
Mildhed (the king's clemency), Mandenes Heste (the men's horses J.
All nouns ending in e form their plural by adding r, as Konge, -r,
Kvinde, -r ; others add er, as Blomst, -er; others e, SlS Hest, -e;
and many neuter nouns remain unchanged in the plural, as Sprog
(language), Hus (house). Lastly, a number of substantives modify
their radical vowel in the plural , as Haand (hand), Hander, Fod
(foot), Fedder, Bog (book), Beyer, Barn (child), Bern. In many cases
the consonant is doubled in order to preserve the short sound of the
vowel, as Ha((hat), -te, Ven (friend), -ner, Gut (Norw., boy), -ter.
Adjectives. Those derived from proper names are not spelled
with initial capitals (as norsk, Norwegian ; engelsk, English). When
preceded by the indefinite article, the adjective remains unchanged
in the common gender , but t is added to it in the neuter, as en
god Hest, et stort (large) Hus ; if, however, the adjective terminates
in e, 0, u, or y, it remains unchanged in both genders, as en lille
Hest, et lille Barn, en sky (shy) Hest, et hly (shy) Barn; but ny
(new) has the neuter nyt. When preceded by the definite article,
and in the plural whether with or without article, adjectives have
an e added-, as den gode Hest, det store Hus, de smukke Bern (the
pretty children), vukre (contracted from vakker -e) Fjorde (beau-
tiful bays). When standing alone after the substantive as a pre-
dicate the adjective usually agrees with the substantive in gender
and number, as Huset er (is) stort, Hestene ere store.
The Comparative and Superlative are formed by adding re
or ere and st or est to the positive ; as glad (glad), gladere, gladest ;
rig (rich), rigere , rigest ; but in some cases they are formed by
prefixing mer and mest to the positive , as elsket (beloved), mer
elsket, mest elsket. The radical vowel is sometimes modified ; as
star, sterre, sterst; fan (few), farre, fcerrest. Several adjectives
are irregularly compared: god, bedre , bedst ; ond (bad), vcvrre,
vcTrst ; gammel (oW), aldre, (tldst; lille (small), mindre, mindst ;
inegen, meget (much), mer, mest; mange (many), flere, fleste.
Numerals. The Cardinal Numbers are: en or een (n. e<), to,
tre, fire, fern, sex, syv, otte, ni, tl, elleue, tolv, tretten, fjorten,
femten, sexten {-pvon. sysfn), sytten, utten, mtten, ti/ve (twenty) ;
en og tyve, to og tyve, etc. ; treti (Danish tredJve, often pron. try ve ) ;
firti (Dan. fyrretyve], femti(\)a,\\.halvtredsindstyve, often contracted
to halvtreds\ sexti ( Dan. tredsindstyve, or treds'), sytti (Dan. halv-
fjirdsindstyve, or halvfjerds), otti (Dan. firsindstyve, or firs}, nitti
(Dan. halvfemsindstyve, or halvfems'), hundrede, tusinde.
Ordinal Numbers. Den, det, de ferste, anden{}\. nndet, pi. an-
dre), tredie, fjerde, femte, sjette, syvende, ottende, nJende, ttende.
I. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY. O
iUevle, loli}te, etc.; tyvende, trediende (Daii. tredlvte, often proii.
tryfte), flrtiende (_Dan. fyrretiivende) , femtiende (Dan. halvfem-
sindstyvcnde), etc.; hundrede and tusinde undergo no alteration.
Fractions. En halv {}l-,, adj. ; the subst. \%en HalvdeC)-^ halv-
anden (I'/aVi halvtredie, or to og en halu(^2^l-)); halvperde, or tre
oij en halv (3'/2)j S"' Trediedel (V3) i ^1 Fjerdedel (V4, or en F/er-
dmy, en Kvurt, or ef Kvartef); en Femtedel; and so on.
Pronouns. Personal. Norn. sing. je(; (I), du (thou), /ian (he),
liUn (she), den or det (it); pi. vt, I, de. Gen. sing, ftans, hendes,
dtns or rfe<«,- pi. deres (their). Dat. and Ace. sing, mig, dig , ham,
or sig, hende or ^j^, den, t/ei or 3«V; pi- os, eder, dem or si^.
Sig is always reflexive, referring to the nominative or subject
(himself, herself, itself, themselves). Members of the same family
and intimate friends address each other as Dii, pi. /, but in or-
dinary society De (literally 'they'), with the verb in the singular,
is always used. In this sense the dative and accusative of De is
Dem, never sig ; as De har skadet Dem (you have hurt yourself).
PossKssivK. .Win (my), mlt, pi. mine; din (thy), dit, pi. d'lne ;
sin (his, her, or its), sit, pi. sine; vor (our), vort, pi. vdre;jer
(your), jtrt, pi. jere (colloquial); deres (their); Deres (your, in the
polite form of address).
Demonstrative. Den, del (this), pi. de; denne, dette (this),
pi. disse; hln or hiin, hint (that), pi. hlne; samme (same), selo
(self), and begge (both) are indeclinable; saadun, saadant (snch a
one), pi. saadanne.
Relatives. Som (who, whom, which, nom. and ace.) and der
(who, which, nom. only) are indeclinable ; hvllken, hvilket (who,
whom, which, nom. or ace), pi. hoilke; hvls (whose, of which,
sing, or pi.) ; hvad (what), indeclinable.
Interrogatives. Hvo or hvem (who, whom), indeclinable;
hvilkcn, hvilket, pi. hvilke (which, nom. or ace); hvad (what).
Inijkfinitr. A/an (one, they, nom. only); en or ?t (one); nogen
(some, somebody, someone), noyei (some, something), pi. nogle;
ingen (no, nobody, none), intet (no, nothing, none), pi. ingen;
anden, andet (other), pi. anf7re; hver, hvtrt, enhoer, cthvert (each,
every; each one, everyone); al, «i< (all), pi. alle ; det, der (it,
with impers. verbs), as det regner (it rains), der slges (it is said),
der skr'ives (it is written).
Verbs. Auxiliary. At have (to have); pres. indie, har, pi.
have; imperf. huvde ; perf. har, pi. have haft; fut. skal or vil, pi.
skulle or vitle, have; imperat. hav, pi. haver; partic. havende, haft.
At virre (to be); pres. ind. er, pi. ere; imperf. vur, pi. vare;
perf. har, pi. have varet ; fut. skal or vil, pi. skulle or ville, vare ;
imperat. rrrr, pi. vo'rer.
At skulle{to be about to, to be obliged); pres. skal, pi. skulle;
imperf. skulde ; perf. har, pi. liave skullet.
6 I. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY.
At ville (to be about to, to be willing); pres. inl, pi. viUe ;
imperf. vilde ; perf. har, pi. have villet.
A( fcunne (to be able) ; pres. fean, pi. kunne ; imperf. kunde;
perf. har, pi. have kunnct ; fut. skal or vil, pi. skulle or ville, kunne.
At maatte (to be obliged); pres. maa (must); imperf. maatte ;
perf. har, pi. have maattet.
At turde (to be allowed, to dare); pres. ter (may, dare); im-
perf. turde (miglit, dared).
At Z(t/rde (to be bound, to be under an obligation); pres. her
(ought, etc.); imperf. hurde (ougbt, etc.).
The verb faa (to get), with the perfect participle, expresses
futurity, as naar jeg faaer skrevet (when 1 shall have written).
The verb Hive (to become) is sometimes used to form the
passive voice, as han hllver, blev skadet (he is, was hurt).
Conjugations. The conjugations are cither weak or strong,
regular or irregular, and under each of these heads there are sev-
eral subdivisions. The first and second of the three following
verbs are weak (/'. e. with the imperf. formed by the addition of
ede or te, and the partic. by the addition of et , or t to the root),
and the third and fourth are strong (i. e. the imperf. takes no
afflx^whether modifying the radical vowel or not).
Elske (to love); pres. elsker, pi. elske; imperf. elskede; perf. liar,
pi. have elsket; partic. elsket, pi. (when used as adj.) elskede.
Tale (to speak) ; pres. taler, pi. tale ; imperf. talte ; perf. har,
pi. have talt ; partic. lalt, pi. talte.
Komme (to come); pres. kommer, pi. komme; imperf. kom; perf.
er kommen, neut. kommet, pi. ere komne.
Stja;le (to steal); pres. stjaler, pi. stjale; imperf. stjal; perf. har,
pi. have stjaalet; partic. used as adj. stjaalen, stjaalet, stjaalve.
The present participle is formed by adding nde to the infini-
tive (as elskende, kommende). The imperative singular is the root
(as tdl, stjaf), to which er is added in the plural (as elsker, kommer').
Elskes (to be loved); pres. elskes, or bliver elsket, pi. hlive els-
kede; imperf. elskedes or blev elsket, pi. bleve elskede.
Tales (to be spoken); pres. tales, or bliver talt, pi. blive talte;
imperf. taltes, or blev talt, pi. bleve talte.
The following List of Verbs includes a number of weak and
strong, regular and irregular verbs. The infinitive, imperfect, and
participle of each are given. When the participle ends in -t, the
usual auxiliary is have, when it ends in -n , -ne , the auxiliary
is vcere.
Accompany, ledsage, ledsag'ede, ledsaget. Alight, stlge uf (steg,
steg-en, -et, -ne); stige lid. Arrive, ankomme, ankom, ankom-men,
-met, -ne. Ascend, mount, stige , steg, steg-en, -et, -ne. Ask,
sperge, spurgte, spurgt. Awake (trans.), vakke, vakte, vakt.
Become, blive, blev, blev-en, -et, -ne. Beg, bede, bad, bedt, -e.
1. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY. 7
Believe, tro, troede, troet. Bind, bimlc, handt, bundet, bund-en,
-et, -ne. Blow, blase, blceste, bkvst. Boil, koge, kogte, kogt. Break,
brcekke, Irak, brcekket, briik-ken, -ket, -ne; slaae itu (slog, slaaet,
slag-en, -et, -ne). Bring, bringe, bragte, bragt. Buy, kebe, kebte, kebt.
Call, shout, raabe, raabte, raabt, -e; see also 'name'. Carry,
bare, bar, baaret, baar-en, -et, -ne. Change, skifte, skiftede, skiftet ;
bytte, byttede, byttet; change (moneyl, vexle, vexlede, vexlet. Come,
komme, kom, kom-men, -met, -ne. Count, talle, talte, talt. Cost,
koste, kostede, kostet. Cut, skjare, skar, skaaret, skaar-en, -et, -ne.
Demand, ask [a price, etc.), forldnge, forlangte, forlangt, -e.,
Depart, see 'start'. Descend, stlge ntd (sieg, stegen). Dismount.
sfige af, stige ud. Do, gjSre ; pres. gjer, pi. gjere; gjorde, gjort.
Drink, drikke, drak, drukket, druk-ken, -ket, -ne. Drive (a carriage)
kjSre, kjerte, kjert, -e. Dry, terre, terrede, terret.
Eat, spise, splste, spist, -e.
Fear, fry(jte,frygtede, frygtet.YinA, p,nde, fandt, fundet, fund-en,
-et, -ne. Fish, p.ske, fiskede, fisk-et, -ede. Follow, felge, fnlgte,
fulgt, -e. Forget, glemme, glemte, glemt, -e. Freeze, fryse, frWs,
fr OSS-en, -et, -ne.
Get, faa, fik, faaet; get down, st'ige ned (steg, steg-en, -et, -ne);
get in, st'ige ind ; get up, sliye op ; get on, komme /rem (kom, kom-
men). Give, gioe, gav, g'lvet, giv-en, -et, -ne. Go, gna, glk, gaaet.
Help, hjalpe, hjulp, hjnlpet, hjulp-en, -et, -ne. Hire, hyre,
hyrede, hyret; leie, leiede, leiet. Hold, holde,holdt,holdt, -e. Hope,
haabe, haabede, haabet.
Jump, springe, sprang, sjrrunget, sprung-en, -et, -ne.
Keep, beholde, beholdt, beholdt. Knock, banke, bankede, banket.
Know (a fact), vide; pres. ved, pi. vide; vidste, vidst ; (a person,
a place, etc.) kjende, kjendte, kjendt.
Lay, put, Icpgge, lagde, Ingt, lagd, -e ; lay hold , tage fat pan
(see 'take'). Learn, tare, larte, tart. Leave, /'oWarfe ,- leave behind,
iflerlade; see 'let'. Let, lade, ldd,ladet,ladt, -e ; let go, let fall,
slippe, slap, sluppet, ship-pen, -pet, -ne. Lie, ligge, laa, ligget.
Light, kindle, tande, tandte, tandt, -e. Like, sjines (om), syntes;
or (Norw. ) like, llkte, likt. Lose, tube, table, ttlbt, -e.
Make, see 'do'. Mend, istandsatte (satte, sat); reparcre, rc-
parerede, repareret; udbedre, udbedrede, udbedret. Mistake, make
a mistake, tage feil (tog, tag et). Mount, stlge, steg, stegen; (on
horseback) sidde op (sad, siddet).
Name, call, knlde, knldte, kaldt. -e. Named or called (to be),
hedde, hed, hedt, -e.
Open, aabne, aabnede, aabnet, -de. Order, bestille, bestillede,
bestillet. ,
Pay, betTile, betalte, betnlt, -e. Pronounce, udtale, udtalte, ud-
talt, -e. Put, satte, satte, sat, -te; see also 'lay'; put to (horses),
spande, spandte, spandt.
Rain, regne, regnede, regnet. Read, lase, laste, last. Reckon,
8 I. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY.
reyne, regnede, regnet. Require, behave, beheoede, behevet. Rest,
hvUe, hvilte, hvilt. Return (intr.j, komme or gaa tilbuge. Ride,
r'lde, red, redet, red-en, -et, -ne. Roast, stege, stegte, stegt. Row,
ro, roede, roet. Run, lebe, leb, lebet.
Say, fige, sagde, sagt, -e. See, see, saa, seet. Seek, sege,
segte, segt. Sell, sirlge, solgte, solgt. Send, sende, sendte, sendt, -e.
Set, see 'put'. Shoot, skyde, skjed, skudt, -e. Shut, lukke, luk-
kede, lukk-et, -ede. Sit, sidde, sad, siddet. Sleep, sove, sou, suvet.
Smoke (intrans.), ryge, rSg, reget; (trans.) r«'(/e, regede, reget. Snow,
sne, snete, snet. Speak, tale, talte, tall, -e. Stand, staa, stod, staaet.
Start, dfgaa, afg'ik, afgaaet ; or gaa bort, gaa afsted. Stop (trans,
or intrans.}, standse, standsede, stands-et, -ede.
Take, tage, tog, taget, tag-en, -et, -ne ; take care of, s^rge,
sergede, serget (for). Think, tcenke, twnkte, tctnkt. Travel, reise,
reiste, reist. Try, forsege, forsegte, forsegt.
Understand, forsiaa, forstod, forstaa-et, -ede. Use, bruge,
brugte, brugt. — Wait, rente, ventede, ventet. Wash, vaske, vas-
kede, vask-et, -ede. Wish, Snske, enskede, ensk-et, -ede. Write,
skrlve, skreu, skrevet, skrev-en, et, -ne.
Adverbs. The neuter forms of adjectives are used as adverhs ;
as god (good), godt (well) ; Idngsom (slow), langsomt (slowly) ; and
such adverbs take the same comparative and superlative as the ad-
jectives. Godt or vel has bedre, bedst ; ilde (ill), like ond or daar-
llg, has vcerre, varst ; gjerne (willingly) , hellere (rather), heist
(most willingly, rather, especially).
The following are in very frequent use : —
Place. Ahout, omtreni ; above, ovenpaa ; hftev, efter ; around,
omkrfng ; at home, hjemme (indicating rest, like several other ad-
verbs ending in e , while without the e they indicate motion^ ;
away, bort, borte ; back, tilbage; below, nedenunder ; down, ned,
nede ; everywhere, overall; far, langt ; far from here, far distant,
langt herfra ; here, her; home, hjem; in, ind, inde ; near, ncer ;
nov/heie, mgensteds ; out, ud, tide; past, /"or 61 ; there, der; thither,
did; up, op, oppe ; where, hvor ; within, inde.
Time. About, omtrent ; afterwards, siden efter ; again, utter,
igjen ; alwaysa, It'id ; already, ullerede ; before, fer; early, tidligt ;
immediately, strax ; last year, Ifjor ; late, sent ; long, Utnge ; near-
ly, ncesten ; never, aldrig ; now, nit ,■ often, ofte, tldt ; once, engang;
seldom, sjcelden ; sometimes, undertiden ; soon, snart ; still, endnu ;
the day after to-morrow, iovermorgen ; the day before yesterday,
iforgaars ; tben, dtl, paa den T'ld ; this evening, laften ; this
morning, imorges ; to-day, 'idag ; to-morrow, imorgen; twice, ^to
Gange ; when (interrogative), naar, hvad Tld ; yesterday, Igaar.
Manner, Degree, etc. A little, no get ; also, ogsaa; also not,
heller ikke; altogether, t alt, 'i det hek taget, altsammen ; broken
(in two), itu ; downhill, nedad (Bakken) ; how, hvorledes ; little,
II. LANGUAGE OF SWEDEN. 9
lldt ; much, mcyet ; no, nei ; not, ikke ; not at all, slet ikke ; of
roiirse, naturligvis ; only, kun; particularly, iswr ; partly, diLs ;
perhaps, kanske, maaske ; possibly, ^mMi/^oIs,- probably, rirneUgvls ;
i\mc]i.\y, hiirtigt (fort) ; so, thus, saaledes ; softly (gently, slowly),
mgte ; straight on, liyefrtm; together, tUsdinmen ; too (much, etc.),
for (nieget, etc.); uphill, opad (Bakken); very, ineget ; why, hvor-
for; yes, Ja, jo (the latter being used in answer to a question in
the negative or expressing doubt).
Prepositions. Among the most frequent are : —
About, om ; above, over; after, efter ; among, hlandt ; at, i,
■paa, red; at (of time), om; behind, bag, bagved; between, mel-
lem; by, at the house of, hos ; by, near, ved ; by, past, forbi;
during, om, under ; for, in front of, for, foran ; from, fra ; in, i ; in-
stead of, istedetfor ; near, ncrr ved ; of, from, af; on, paa ; opposite,
I'igeoverfor ; over, iipwards of, over; past, /"orSl ,• round, rundt om;
since, siden ; through, gjennem ; tiW, (jif/;«i (not till, ikkefer); to,
tU ; towards, inod, Imod; under, under ; upon, paa; with, med.
Conjunctions. The most important are : —
After, efterdt ; although, skjendt; and, og ; as, da; as — as,
saa — som ; because, fordi ; before, fer ; but, men ; either — or,
enten — eller; for, thi ; if, om, dersom, hv'is ; in order that, for at ;
or, elLer; since (causal), fordi, efterdl, (of time) siden; so, saa;
than, end; that, at; till, until, indtrl; when (with past tense) da,
(with present or future) naar ; where, hvor ; while, medens.
Interjections. Ah, alas, dk ; indeed, Ih, jdsda, virkelig ; not
at all, far from it, don't mention it, Idngtfra, ingen Aarsdg ; of
course, certainly, ndtiirligvls ; pardon, om Forlddelse ; please,
var saa god, vcvr saa drtig ; thanks, Tak (many, mange'); true, det
er sandt ; what a pity, det er Synd!
II. Language of Sweden.
The remarks already made on the origin of the Danish language
and on the peculiarities of its pronunciation apply almost equally
to the Swedisli language. The Swedish a corresponds to the Dano-
Norwegian aa.
Articles. The Indefinitk Article is (m. and f.) en, (n.) ett ;
as en karl, a man ; ctt barn, a child.
The Definite Article is (m. or f.) en (or n after a vowel),
and (n.) et ot ett , affixed to the substantive; as konungen, tlic
king; flickan, the girl. Preceding an adjective, the deflnjte article
is (m. or f.) den, (n.) det, (pi.) de; but the substantive wliich fol-
lows still retains its affix ; as den gode konungen, det I'dln barnet
(the little cliild), de skona flickorna (the pretty girls).
Substantives. All substantives, except proper names, are spelled
10 II. LANGUAGE OF SWEDEN.
with small initials. The genitive, both singular and plural, usually
ends in s ; as barnets moder, koniingens godhet, presternas bockar.
The plural is formed by adding or, ar, er, or n; hut it is some-
times the same as the singular, especially in the case of neuter
substantives ; as krona, kronor ; gosse (boy), gossar ; lind (lime-
tree), imdar; prest, prester ; fcna (knee), /cnan ; /tus (house), pi.
hus. Among the irregular plurals the commonest are : man, man ;
oga (eye), ogon ; ora (^ea.v), oron ; 6ofc (book), bockar; fof (foot),
fatter; nat (night), natter; gas (goose), gciss.
Adjectives. After the indefinite article the adjective under-
goes no change, except-in the neuter gender, in which case t is
added; as en ung man, en skon flicka, ett artigt barn (a good
child). The neuter of iJten (little) is lltet, of mycken(muG\\)mycket.
After the definite article the adjective takes the affix e or a in
the masculine, and a in the feminine or neuter; as dengodeman-
nen, den skona flicka, det artiga barnet. When following the de-
finite article, llten becomes tilla (pi. sma). For all genders the
plural is de goda, de skona, de artiga, de sma.
The Comparative and Supkrlative are formed by adding are
and ast to the positive ; as rolig (quiet), roligare, roligast ; ringa
(small, insignificant), ringare, ringast. Irregular are: god (good),
bdttre, bast ; dalig, e?a/i;(bad), samre, siimst^ or vdrre, vdrst ; lag (low),
Idgrc, lagst ; lang (long), langre, liingst ; llten (small), mindre,
minst ; sma (small, pi.), smdrre ; /a (few), fdrre ; mycken (much'),
mer, mest ; manga (many), flere, de fleste ; stor (large), storre,
storst ;■ gammal (old), dldre, dlst ; iing (young), yngre, yngst ; tung
(heavy), tyngre, tyngst.
Numerals. The Cardinal Numbers are : en or ett, iva, tre,
fyra, fem, sex, sju, attd, nio, tio, elfva, tolf, tretton, fjorton, fem-
ton, sexton, sjutton, aderton, nitton, tjugu (20) ; tjugu en, etc. ;
tretti, fyratio (pron. forti), femtio, sextio, sjuttio, attatio (attio),
nittio, hundra, tusen, en million.
The Ordinal Numbers are : den forste, den, det forsta ; den
andre, den, det andra (en nnnan, ett annat) ; tredje, fjerde, femte,
sjette, sjunde, attonde, nionde, tionde, elfte, tolfte, trettonde, fjor-
<onde, etc. ; tjugonde (20th), tjiigu forste, etc. ; trettionde, fyrtionde,
etc. ; hundrade, tusende.
Fractions. En half (1/2, adj. ; the subst. is en hdlft\ hdlf-
annan (IV2I j ^'^ tfedjedel (1/3 rd), en fjErdedel (V4th), etc.
Pronouns. Personal. Nom. sing, jug (I), du (thou), han (he),
hon (she)^ de((it); nom. pi. vl, I, de. Gen. sing, huns, hennes, dets ;
gen. pi. dEras (their). Dat. and Ace. sing, mig, dig, honom, henne,
det; dat. and ace. pi. oss, eder, dem. Refl. dat. and ace. sijr (him-
self, herself, itself, themselves). Hvdrandrd (one another).
Du is used in addressing near relatives and intimate friends.
II. LANGUAGE OF SWEDEN. 11
iV7, corresponding ■with tlie Danish De (you), with tht; verb in Uic
singular, is used in addressing strangers; but it is more polite to
use the awkward periphrasis herm er, liar, etc., frun er, frbken er,
OT better still the person's title, if known , as vill herr ofversten
vara so. god (will the colonel be so kind)?
Mig, dig, sig are pronounced my, dy, sy. De is pronounced di,
and del de.
Possessive. A/Tn (my), mitt, pi. rmna; din (thy), ditt, pi. dina;
/iun.s (his), ftennes (her), t/e(s(its); ^m (his, her, its, their; refl.
only), sitt, sina ; war (our), vart, vara; erfer (your), edert, edra.
Demonstrative. Denne, rfenna (this), detta, pi. desse, dessa ;
den, f/e( /ier (this here), pi. de her ; den, det der (that there), pi.
de der ; den, det, de samme (the same).
Relative. Som (who, whom, which), nom. and ace. only;
hvilken, huilket (who, whom, which), pi. hvilka; hvad (what).
Intbrrogativk. Hvem (who), hvems (whose), hvad (what),
hvilk-en, -et, -a (which).
Indefinite. A/«n (one), .^je//" (self) , nagFon (some, somebody),
nayo< (some, something), nagra (pi., some); ingen (no, nobody),
intet (x\o, nothing), inga(j>\., no); mangen (many a one), manga
(many); all, aUt (^idV) ; hvar, /mart (each, every), hvar och (yron.
ok) en (one and all); hel, helt (whole), hele (pL, whole).
Verbs. Auxiliary. Att hafva (to have). Pres. indie, jag, du,
han, hon, det, Ni har ; vi ha (or havfa); i hnn (hafven), de ha
(hafva). Import", jag, etc., hade; vi hade; i had en ; de hade. Fut.
jag, etc., skall hafva; i skolen hafva; de skola hafva. Condit. jag,
etc., skulle hafva ; vi skuUe hafva ; i skuUen hafva ; de skidle hafva.
Iniper. haf (ha), pi. hafven. Partic. hafvande, haft.
Att vara (to 'bo). Pres. indie, jag, etc., lir ; vi dro, i ciren, de
aro. Imperf. jag, etc., var ; vi voro, ivoren, de voro. Per f. jag,
etc., har var it. Imperf. jag hade varit. Fut. jag skall vara. Cond.
jag skulle vara. Imper. var, va.ren. Partic. varande, varit.
Att skola (to be obliged, to be about to); pres. skall, pi. skola;
imperf. skulle; partic. skolande, skuUet.
Att vi.lja (to be Milling, to be about to); pres. vill, pi. vilja;
imperf. ville; partic. viljande, velcit.
Att kunna (to be .able); pres. knnn, pi. kunna; imperf. kunde;
partic. kunnat.
Att maste (to be obliged); pres. maste ; imperf. maste.
Att tora (may, to be allowed); pres. tor ; imperf. torde.
Att bora (to be bound, obliged); pres. icir (ought) ; imperf.
borde (ought).
The Conjugations are either weak or strong, regular or irreg-
ular. The following three verbs are weak and regular :
Infinitive. Att dlska (to love), bdja (bend), bo (lodge).
12 II. LANGUAGE OF SWEDEN.
Pres. indie. Jag, du, lian iUsknr, bojer, bur; vi, Ae dlnka, boja,
bo ; i dlsken, bojen. bon.
Imperf, Jag, du, lian, vi, de illokade, bojde, bodde ; i dlskaden.
bojden, bodden. Perf. Jag har dlskat, bojt, bolt. Fut. Jag skall
nlska, boja, bo. Imper. Alska, boj, bo; dlsken, bojen, bon. Partic.
Alskande, bojande, boende; dlskat, bojt, bott.
Most of the Swedish verbs are conjugated like dlska. Those
whose roots end in A;, p, s, or t form the imperfect by adding te,
and the participle by adding t ; as kijpe, kbpte, kiipt.
The passive is formed by adding s ; jag dlskds (I am loved),
iilskddes (was loved), hnr dlskats (have been loved), dlsknndes
(being loved). The passive may also be formed with the auxiliary
bllfva (to be, become) : jag bllr. blef dlskad (I am, was loved).
The following List of Verbs includes a number of regular,
strong, and irregular verbs. The present indicative, generally
formed from the infinitive by adding r, the imperfect, the perfect
participle used with hdfva, and the perfect participle used with
vara are given in each case. When the participle ends in n, the
neuter usually changes the n to t, and the plural ends in ne or na.
Arrive, dnkommer, ankom (pi. ankommo^, ankommit , an~
kommen ; or intrdffar, intrdffdde, intrdffat. Ascend , stlger (upp),
uteg (stego), stegit, stegen. Ask, frdgar, fragdde , fragat. Awake
(trans.), vdckar, vdckdde, vdckat.
Become, bllr (vi blifua, inf. bUfva\ blef, blifvit, blifoen. Beg,
her (vi bedje or be, inf. bedja\ bad (vi bado'), bedt, bedd. Bind,
binder, band (vi bundo\ bandit, bunden. Blow, blaser, blaste,
blast. Boil, kokar , kokte, kokt. Break, brytar, brytdde, brytat.
Bring, hringer, brdgte, brdgt (bringat). Buy, kopa, kbpte, kopt.
Call, shout, ropa, ropte, ropt ; see also 'to name'. Carry, bar
(inf. bdra), bar (buro), burit, buren. Change, bylar, bytdde, bytat ;
change (money), vexlar, vexldde, vexlat ; change (alter), forandrar,
fordndrdde, fordndrat. Come, kommer, kom (kommo), kommit,
kommen. Count, tdljar, tdljade, tdljt. Cost, kostar , kostade,
kostat. Cut, skar (inf. skdra), skdr (skuro), skurit, skuren.
Demand (ask a price, etc.), fordrar, fordrdde, fordrat. Depart,
dfresar, afreste, afrest ; or gar bort, resar bort. Descend, stlger ned
(see 'ascend'). Dismount, stlger ned, stlger df (hasten), sitter df
(see 'sit'). Do, gbr (inf. gbra), gjorde, gjbrdt , gjord. Drink,
dricker, drdck (drucko), druckit, drucken. Drive (a carriage), kbrer,
kbrte, kort. Dry, torkar, torkdde, torkat.
Eat, splser, splste, spist, or dter, at (ato), dtit, dten.
Fear, fruklar, fruktdde, fruktat. Find, finner, fann, funnit,
funnen. Fish, fiskar, fiskte, fiskt. Follow, foljer, foljte, foljt. Forget,
glommar, glbmtc, glbmt. Freeze, fryser, frbs (frbso), frusit, frusen.
Get, far, fick (ftngo), fait ,■ get up, down, in, stlger upp, ned,
m ; get on, kommer fram. Give, ger (glfver ; inf. ge, glfoa), gdf
(gafvo), glfvit, gifven. Go, gar, gick (gingo), gatt, gangen.
II. LANGUAGE OF SWEDEN. 13
Help, hjelper, halp (hulpo), hulpit, hulpen. Hire, hyrar, hyrude,
hyrat. Hold, haller, hbll (hollo), hallit, hallen. Hope, hoppas (a
'deponent' verb, used in the passive form only), hoppades, hoppats.
Keep, behaller, behbll (behollo), behallit, behallen. Knock (at a
door), klappar, klappade, klappat. Know (a fact), vet [inf. vein'),
vtsste, vetat. Know (a person, a thing), kanner, kdnnte, kannt.
Lay, put, tagger, lagde, lagt, lagd ; lay hold of, tager fall pa
(see 'take'). Learn, larar (mig), liirte, Icirt, lard. Leave, lemnar,
lemnade, lemnat ; leave behind, lemna qvar. Let, later. Idt (Idto),
latit ; let go (get rid of), sldppar, sldppade, sldppat. Lie, liggar, lag
(lago), legal. Light, tdndar, tdndte, tdndt. Like, tyckar (om),
tyckte, Ujckt. Lose, forlorar, fbrlorade, fbrlorat.
Make, see 'do'. Mean, minar , mente , ment. Mend, Salter i
stand (see 'set'), or repdrerar , reparerdde, reparerat. Mistake,
make a mistake, mfsstdgar mig, see 'take'. Mount, stiger, steg
(stego), stlgit, stegen ; (on horseback) siller upp, see 'sit'.
Name, call, kallar , kallade, kallat ; to be named (to signify],
heter, hette, helat. — Open, bppnar , bppnade, bppnat. Order,
bestdllar, bestdllte, hestdllt.
Pay, betiilar , betalade , betalat. Pronounce, uttdlar, uttalade,
uttalat. Put, sailer, satte, salt; see also 'lay'; put to (horses),
spdnna for, spdnnte, spdnnt.
Rain, (det) regnar, regnade, regnat. Read, laser, Idste (or Ids,
no pi.), last, Idsen. Reckon, raknar, rdknade, rdknat. Require,
behofoar , behbfvade , behbfuat. Uest, hv'ilar , hv Hade, hv Hal. Re-
turn (intr.), vdndar (om), vdndte, vdndt ; or resar (reste, rest) ttl-
bdkd. Ride, rider, red (redo), r'ldit, riden. Roast, stekar, slekte,
stekt. Row, ror, rodde, roll. Run. Ibpar, lopp (lupo), lupit.
Say, sdger, sdde, sagt, sagd. See, sir, sag (sago), sell, sedd,
Seek, sokar, sbkte, sbkt. Sell, sdljar, sdljade, sdlgt. Send, sdndar.
sdndte, sdndt ; or skickar, skickte, skickt. Set, sailer, satle, salt.
Shoot , skjutar . skjulade, skjutil. Shut, stdngar. stdngte, stdngt.
Sit, siller, salt (sutto) , suttit (sulit). Sleep, sbfver, sbf (sofvo),
sofvil. Smoke (intr.) ri/fca, rbk, rukit; (trans.) riifea, rokte , rbkl.
Snow, (det) snbr (inf. snba), snbte, snot. Speak, tdlar, talte, tall.
Stand, star, stbd, stall. Start, afgnr, nfgick (afgingo), afgalt, nf-
gangen. Stop (in trans.), star slilla (see 'stand').
Take, lager (or <«r), tog (logo), tagil, tagen; take care of, har
(hafva) omsbrg om. Think, tdnkiir, tdnkte , tdnkt. Travel, resar,
reste, rest. Try, fbrsoker, fbrsbkte, fbrsbkt.
Understand, fbrstar (like 'stand'). Use, brukar, brukte, brukl.
Wait, vdntar, vdntade, vdnlal. Wash, tvdttar, tvdltade, Ivdltat.
Wish, bnskar, bnskade , bnskat. Write, skrlfver, skref (skrefvo),
skrifvit, skrifven.
Adverbs. The neuter forms of adjectives are used as adverbs;
mnnncn dr drlig (the man is honest), mannen hundlar drligt (the
man deals honestly). Such adverbs are compared like adjectives.
14 II. LANGUAGE OF SWEDEN.
A few are compared irregularly. Godt or val (well) has battre,
hast ; daligt or ilia (ill), vdrre, vdrst or samre, sdmst ; gerna or
garna (willingly), hdllre (rather), hdlst (most willingly, especially).
Place. About, omkrmg ; above, ofvdnpa ; after, efter ; around,
(rundt) omkring ; at home , hemmd (indicating rest , like several
other adverbs ending in a, while without the n they indicate mo-
tion)] away, bort, borta ; back, tillhdkd; below, nere ; down, ned ;
far, langt borta, fjdrrdn ; here, hdr ; home, him; in, in, inne ;
near, ndr; nowhere, tngenslddes ; out, Tit, ute ; past, forbi; there,
(/er; thither, dit ; up, up, iippe ; where, hvdr ; within, inne.
Time. About, omkring; afterwards, sedan; again, tgSn, ater ;
always, allt'id ; already, redan; before, forut ; early, tidigt, bittida;
last year, Ifjor; late, sTnt ; long, Idnge ; nearly, ndstan : never,
uldrig ; now, nu ; often, ofta ; once, en gang; sometimes, stundom;
soon, sndrt ; still, dnnU ; the day after to-morrow, 'i ufvermurgon ; the
day before yesterday, forgar ; then, da, pa den tid ; this evening,
l dftun; this morning, I morse; to-day, I dag ; to-morrow, i mor-
gan; twice, tva gangar ; when (interrog.) nar ; yesterday, igar.
Manner, Degree, etc. A little, nagot ; also, ochsa; also not,
hdller icke; altogether, alltsdmmans; broken (in two), i sdr ;
down, downhill, nedat, nedat backen ; how, hurii; little, Ittet ;
much, mycket ; no, nei ; not, icke ; not at all, sldtt icke ; of course,
ndturligtvis ; only, hlott, ^nddst; particularly, synnerl'tgen ; partly,
dels; perhaps, kanske ; possibly, mtgltgen; probably, sannollkt;
quickly, fort, hurtigt; so, thus, saledes; softly (gently, slowly),
siikta; straight on, rukt frdm; together, Ihop, tillsdmmans; too,
for; too much, for mycket; up, uphill, uppat, uppat backen; very,
mycket ; why, hvdrfor ; yes, jd, jo (the latter in answer to a question
in the negative or expressing doubt).
Prepositions. About, om ; above, ofver ; after, effer ; a.t, pa,
vld ; at (of time), om ; behind, bdk; between, millan ; by, at the
house of, hos; by, near, v'td, ndrd ; by, past, forhi; during, om,
under; for, before, for; from, fran; in, I; instead of, i stdllet for^;
near, ndra, vld; of, from, df; on, pa; over, ofver; past, forbi;
round, rundt om; since, sedan; through, genom; till, till, inttll;
to, till; towards, emot; under, under; upon, pa; with, med.
Conjunctions. After, siddn ; although, ehuru; and, och ; as,
da; as — as, sa — som; because, emedan ; before, for; but, men;
either — or, antingen — eller ; for, tin ; if, om ; in order that, foratt ;
or, eller ; since (causal) , em^ddn ; since (of time), sidan ; so, sa ;
than, an; that, att; till, until, tills; when (with past tense),^ da;
when (with present or future), ndr; where, hvdr; while, mEddn.
Interjections. Ah, alas , dck ; indeed , jd sa , verkligen ; of
course, ndturligtvis, jd vhst, 6euars;, pardon, ursakta ; please, ■««»•
sd god ; thanks, (jag) facfcar, tackar odmjukdst ('most humbly');
true, det dr sandt ; what a pity, det dr synd I
15
DIALOGUES.
Common Phrases.
Dano-Noets'egian. English. Swedish.
Odd Morgen, Dag,Af- Good moriiiiig, day, Ood morgon, dag^ af-
ten, Nut. evening, night. ton, 7iatt.
Lev vet! Far veil Good tye. Farewell. Farval! Adieu!
Behugelig , lijkkelig I wisli you a ha.'p^y Angendm^lycMlg rem !
Reise ! journey. Lycka pa restin !
H V or dan hilr Dei'P'cou. How do you do'.' Huru mar Nt (herrn)?
DT) del (prou. lie)? Huru star del till?
TakI — Mange Takl Thank you. Many Tack! Jag tackar sa
— Tak skal De ha- thanks. mycket.
(ve) !
Ja,Tak! — Nei, Tak! Yes, thanks. No, Ja, jag tackar ! — Nei,
thank you. jag tackar!
(Jo is used instead of ia iu reply to a question in the negative.)
Varsaagod! Be so good. Please. Vursagod!
Hvad ensker De? What do you want? Hvad onskar Ni
Hvad vil De haue? (herrn)? Hvad vill
Ni ha ?
Huad behager? What do you wisli"? Hvad behagas?
Taler De engelsk ? Do you speak Eug- Tatar Ni engelska?
lishV
Det gijr mig ondt, jeg I am sorry I do not Det gijr mig ondt, jag
forstaar ikke norsk, understand Nor- forstar inte norska,
dansk, svensk. wegiaii, Danish, danska^ svcnska.
Swedish.
Forstaar De det? Do you understand Forstar iVi det.'
this V _
Jeg forstaar Dem ikke; 1 do not understand Jap forstar Er inte;
De maa tale liing- you ; you must Ni maste tula lang-
sommere. speak more slowly. sammare.
Hvadhedder — kaldes What is that in Nor- Hvad lieter det pa
— detpaanorsk,paa wegian, Danish, norska^ pa danska,
dansk, paa svensk? Swedish? pasvenska?
Olv! — Tag!— Stop! Give. Take. Stop. Ge (g'lf)! — Tag! —
Hall(slopp)!
Erdet ikkebrav(T^Ton. Is that not good? Ar det icke(inte) bra?
bra) or godt ?
Hvorledes synes De om How do you like that? Hvad tycknr Ni om
de(t)? " det?
Det behager mig godt, I like it very much. I Det behagar mig bra,
det behager mig ikke. do not like it. icke.
Deft) gjer mig meget 1 am very sorry for Det gor mig mycket
ondt. that. ondt (ledsen).
16 DIALOGUES.
Dano-Norwegian. English. Swedish.
Vent lidt ! Bl lidt ! Wait a little. \'dnta lltet !
Pass pan! Take care. Pass pa (se upp) !
Om Forladelse! Excuse me. Ursdkta!
Jeg beder om Und- I beg your pardon. Jag ber om ursakt.
skyldning !
Tag del ikke lUle up! Dont take it ill. Tag inte ilia upp!
Del gjer Intel or ingen It does not matter. Det gor ingenting
ting. (Skadar inte).
Arrival. Porter. Cab.
Er der et Bybud? en Is there a commission- Fins hdr ett stud sbud?
Barer? naire here? a porter? en hdrare?
Bring intt Tei — m'ln Bring my luggage to Skaffa mlna snker
Bagage — til Ho- the hotel. (mitt bagage) till
tellet. holellet.
llvad er Takslen? What is the legnlax Hv ad dr taxan?
charge (tariif)?
Hvadbetdles for Kjer- What is the charge for Hvad hetdlar man for
sel med Kjeretei the drive for a car- aknlng med en en-
forspandt med en riage with one horse, spdnncire, en tva-
Hest^ to Heste? with two horses? spdnnare [akdonmed
en (tva) hdst(-ar)]?
Hent mig en Droschke Fetch me a cab from Hdmta mig en droskn
fra ncermeste Hoi- the nearest stand. fran ndrmaste hall-
deplads. plats.
Hvormeget betales for What is the fare there Hvad betalar man (for
lien (or frem) og and back? akning) fran och
lilbdge — for Tur og tillbaka?
Retur?
Jeg vil kjere thncvls; I wish to drive by Jag vill fnra pa tim-
hvad koster det per time; what is the me; hvad kostar det
Time? fare per hour? i timmen?
In a Hotel and in a Restaurant.
Kan jeg faa et varel$e Ca.nlhai've a. TOornvfith Kan jag fa ett rum
med en (to)seng(e)? one bed, two beds? med en (tva) sdng
— Nattekvarter — Nightquarters ? (-ar)? — natllogi?
(Nattelogis)?
Bring mig et Lys og Bring me a light, and Skaffa mig ett Ijus och
koldt (varmt) Vdds- some cold (warm) kallt (vdrmt) tvdtt-
kevand. water for washing. vatten.
Der er intet Haand- There is no towel here. Det fins inte nagot
Made her. handkldde hdr.
Hvor er Klosetten? Where is the water- Hvar dr privetet (nf-
closet? trddet)?
DIALOGUES. 17
Daxo-Nok-wkgian. English. Swedish.
Gaa opad, nedad Go upstairs, down- Gauppfdr,nedfortrap-
Trappen o;/ derefter stairs, and then to pan och sedan till
til heire, til venstre. the right, left. hbger, till venster.
Ear De en .Stauie- Have you a boot-jack? S«r Ni en stofvel-
knagt ? knekt ?
Nei, men jeg skal gaa No ; but I shall fetch Nei, men jag vill ropa
efter Ganrdskarlen, the porter ('boots'), pa gardsdrdngen,
som skal trcekke af who will take off s^m skall dra af
Dem Stevlerne. your boots. Er stoflarna.
Hvem banker paa Who is that knocking Hvem klappar pa
Deren? at the door? dorren?
Kom ind! Come in. Stig in!
Veer saa god, liik De- Please, shut the door. Var sa god och stdng
Ten ! dorren !
Luk op et Vendue I Open a window. Oppna ett fbnster!
Hvdd kan jeg faa at What can I have to Hvad kan jag fa att
spise? eat? dta (oi spisa^l
Paa hvad Tid finder At what time shall we Ndr agar frukosten
Frokosten sied? — have breakfast? rum? — middags-
MJddugsmaden ; — dinner? supper? mdlliden; — dfton-
Aftensmhden. maltiden.
Jeg er mtget sulten I am very hungry Jag dr mycket hungrig
(terstig). Kan j eg (thirsty). Can I not (torstig). Kan jag
ikke faanoget Koldt have something inte fa nagon kail
i Fdrveien? cold beforehand? mat forut?
Opvdrter, giv mig Spi- Vi^aAtQT, give me the Kypnre, ge mig mdt-
seseddelen. bill of fare. sedelen.
Bring mig en hiilv For- Bring me half-a-por- Ge mig en half portion
tion af denne Steg, tion of this roast iif den hdr steken.
Kartofler og en hdlv meat, potatoes, and potutis och en half
(pron. hall) Flaske half- a- bottle. of bufelj U(enhalfbl).
01 (pron. oil), en beer.
halv 01.
Oxekjsd; — /faf ye- Roast beef, veal, mut- Oxkiitt; — kalfstek; —
steg; — Faaresteg, ton, pork. farstek; — svlnstek.
Bedesteg; — Svi-
nesteg, Fleskesteg.
Grensager ; Syltetei. Vegetables; preserved Oronsdker ; syltsdkcr.
fruits.
Hdr De Fisk? Have you any fish? Hdr Nl (isk?
Jd, der er Tbrsk, Lax, Yes, you can have torsk Jd, det fins torsk, Inx,
0rret, Makrel, (a kind of cod), sal- foreller , makrill,
Hummer, Flyndre mon, mackerel, lob- hummer, flundror
og saa videre. ster, flounders, etc. och sa vlddre.
Kan jeg faa nbget Can 1 have some- Kan jag fa nagon
Koldt; Skinkc, thing coldj ham, kail mat; skinka,
II
18 DIALOGUES.
Dano-Nokwegian. English. Swedish.
Pelse og andet sausage, or some- korf ock annat sa-
saadant? thing of that sort? dant?
Bring mig en Pande- Bring me a pancake Ge mig en pdnnknka
huge og Sukker ; and sugar; some och socker; vijolk
Melk og I'lSde. milk and cream. och grridda.
J eg Snsker Bred, Sm0r 1 wish some hTe^id^'but- Jag vil ha briid, smor
og Ost. ter, and cheese. och ost.
Uvad synes De om How do you like the Hvad tyckar Ni om
Myseost? Myse cheese '.•' mesost?
Den er fur sed. It is too sweet. Den dr for sot.
Brmy mig en Kntv, en Bring me a knife, a Gemigenknlfengaf
Oaffel,en Tallerken, fork, a plate,a spoon, fel, en tallrick,
en Ske, et Ollis. a glass. sked, ett glas.
Der mangier Salt, Pe- There is no salt, pep- Det fattas salt^peppar
her, Sennop og Ed- per, mustard, vin- senap och dttika.
dike. egar.
0nsker De (at sp'ise) Do you wish a hot Onskar Ni (dta) varrr
varmFrokost, inden (meat) breakfast be- frukost fore resan
De reiser y fore you start?
Nei, kun en Kop Kdffe No, only a cup of cof- Nei,bara en koppkdffe
og to ^g ; men fee and two eggs; och tva agg ; men
haardkogte, bled- hut the eggs must hardkokta, loskokta
kogte /Eg. he hard, soft boiled. agg.
Kan jeg faa RSrag Can I have scramhled Kan jag fa agg-rbra
(Norw. Jigger ere) or poached eggs? eller stekta agg?
eller Speilceg?
Opvdrter, en Flaske Waiter, bring me a Kypare, en butelj vln,
Fin, .0^ (pron. 611), bottle of wine, of ol, en kopp kdffe .'
en Kop Kdffe ! beer, a cup of coffee.
Snsker De Hvedebred Do you wish wheateii Onskar Ni hvetebroa
(Kuger)til? bread (cakes ) too? (kdkor) till?
Bring mig en Akvamt Bring me a glass of Ge mig en sup (en
(en Cognac). spirits (brandy). konjak).
Bring mig Piinsch oj^ Bring me some punch Ge mig punsch och
Sodavand. and soda-water. sodavatten.
Spirituoser faaes hver- Spirits are not to he Spirituosa kanman
ken om Lerdays had on Saturday icke fa om Vordagi
Aften eller om Sen- evening and Sun- afton {oi qvdll) ocl
dugen. day. held sondagen.
Jeg vilde gjerne reise 1 wish to start early. Jag ville gerna resa
tidligt. tidigt.
Jeg vilde gjerne v(rk- I wish to be called Jag ville gerna hli
kes. (wakened). vackt.
Naar skal jeg vakke When am I to waken Ndr (hir dags) shall
Dem? you? jag vdcka Er?
Klokken sex. At six. o'clock. Klockan sex.
DIALOGUES. 19
Dano-Norwegian. English. Swedish.
De(t) er for sent. That is too late. Det ar for sent.
De maa komme tldlt- You must come earli- Xi far komma tldi-
gere. er. gare.
Kan jeg faa regning- Can I have the bill? Kan jag fa rdkningen?
en?
Bvad koster det? What does this cost? Hvad kostar det?
Hvor meget er jeg Dem How much do I owe Huru mycket dr jag
skyldig? you? skyldig Er?
Det er for meget.^ for That is too much, too Det dr for mycket, for
dyrt. dear. dyrt.
Kan De vexle en ti Can you change a ten- Kan Ni vexla en tio-
Kroner-Seddel ? crown note? kronor-sedel?
Nei , jeg hdr ingen No, Sir, I have no small Nei, jag har tnte sma-
Smaapenge. change. mynt.
Der er Drtkkepenge. Here is a gratuity. Der dr drickespen-
ningar.
Washing.
LddvdskemitLinned. Get my thingswashed. Lat tvdtta mitt linne.
Naar kornmer Vasker- When does the Ndr kommar tvdtter
konen? washerwoman come? skan?
Her er Vaskeseddelen. Here is the wash-bill. Hdr dr tvdttningsse-
delen.
Skjorte(-r). Shirt. Skjorta(-or).
Scerk(-e). Chemise. Sdrk(-ar).
Fiip(-per) ; — M ans j et CoWa^i; cuff; Ax&vi- Halskrage(-ar) ; —
(-ter); — Underbeen- ers ; under-waist- rnanschet(-ter) ; —
klader; — Treie(-rJ; coat; petticoat. underbyxor ; — tro-
— JJnderkjoie (-r). ja; — underkjortel.
Slrempe, Sokke (-r); Stocking, sock; hand- Strumpa (-or), .socfca
— Lommeterklcede kerchief ; woollen ; (-or) ; — ndsduk
(-r); — ulden; — button. (-ar); — yllen; —
Kndp(-per). knapp(-ar).
Imorgen (om to Ddge) Everything must be Imorgon (om too. dd-
maa alt vcere fcer- ready to-morrow, in gar) maste allt vara
digt. two days. fdrdigt.
Kan jeg stole paa det? Can I depend upon it? Kan jag llta pa det?
Jeg har fiaet der et I have made a large Jag hdr fait der elt
stort Htil; lad del hole here; get it start hal; lat ge nasi
strax repurcre. mended at once. Idga det.
In the Street, on the Railway, and on the Steamboat.
Veer (or Vil De vare^ Please, show mo the Vdr so. god och visa
saa god at vise m'g way to N. mig vdgen till N.
Veien til N.
20 DIALOGUES.
Dano-Norwegian. English. Swedish.
Hvor kommer De fra? Whore do you come Hvarifrankommar Ni?
from?
Oaa bare liyefrem ; Go straight on ; first (ja rakt fram ; font
ferst til heire; og to the right; then at hoger ; sedan at
saa til venstre. to the left. venster.
Hvorlangt er det her- How far is it from here Huru langt dr del
frd til N. ? to N. ? hdrifran till N. ?
Hvorlange belwves, How much time will Huru lang tld behofs
for at komme til N.? it take to go to N.? det for att komma
till N. ?
Ved Hjernet maa De You must ask again at Vid hornet- maste Ni
sperge Dem v-ldere the corner. fraga vlddre (fraga
frem. Er for).
Er htr i Narheden et Is there a post-office Fins hdr i ndrheten en
Posthus ? near here ? postanstalt ?
Hdr De et Brev til Have you a letter for Hdr Nt (fins hdr) na-
mig? meV got href till mig ?
Har De prospektkort? Have you picture post- Har Ni prospektkort?
Har De ti eres fri- cards? Have you Har Ni tio ores fri-
mffrker til dem ? 10 - ore stamps for marker till dem ?
them?
Er Herr N. hjemme? Is Mr. N. at home? Ar Herr N. hemma?
Kan jeg faa Hr. N. i Can I speak toMr. N.? Kdn jag fa tdla med
Tale ? (kan jeg idle Herr N. ?
med Hr. N. ?)
Vil De vcere saa god Will you be so kind Vdr sFi god och visa
at sigemig Veien til as to tell me the way mig vagen till bdn-
Bdnegaarden. to the station? garden.
Naar gaar Hurtigtoget When does the ex- Ndr gar sndlltaget till
til N.? press -train for N. N.?
start?
Billetkontoret er end- Theticket-oi&ceisnot Biljettkontoret dr
nu ikke ddbent. open yet. dnnu inte oppet.
En Billet (to Billetter) A ticket (two tickets) En biljett (tva bil-
ferste — dndcn — for N., first-, sec- jetter) forsta — an-
tredje Klasse til N. ond-, third-class. dra — tredje klass
till N.
Hdr De Overv^gt? Have you any over- Hdr Ni ofveroigt?
weight ?
Hvor er Reg-, Dame- Where is the smoking- Hvdr dr r'ok-, ddm-
kupeen? En kupe carriage, the ladies' kupen? Enkupemed
medkloset? compartment? A privet?
lavatory-carriage ?
Er der endnu Pldds? Is there any room Ar der dnnu plats?
left?
DIALOGUES. 21
Dano-Noewegian. English, Swedish.
Alle Pladser ere op- All the places are oc- Alia platser aro iipp-
tagne; denne Plads cupied; this place tagna; denna plats
tUherer mig. is mine. tillhbrar mig.
Skal man skifte Tog Are carriages changed Maate man sklfta tag
paa Fatten til A.? on the way to A.'? pa farten till A.?
VedhvilkenStntPn? At what station? Vid hvilken station?
HvoT mange minutters How' many minutes. Huru manga minuters
ophold har man (longer) do we stop uppehall har man
(endnu) ved denne at this station? (dnnu) vid denna
Station ? station ?
Ter jeg be Dem om at May I ask you to shut Far sa god och stdng
lukke Vinduet? the window? fonstret?
Hoad hedder dette What is the name of Hvad heter den heir
Vand, dette Bjerg, this lake, this moun- sjon, det der berget,
denne Station? tain, this station? den har stationen?
Vll De opbevdre m1t Please, keep my lug- Vill Ni forvdra mlna
Tei til I Eftermid- gage till this after- sdker till i efter-
dag? noon. middag?
Idag gaar intet Damp- TheiQ is no stea.nibosit Iddg gar ingen ang-
skib, starting to-day. bat.
Skal vl faa Vind eller Shall we have wind Fa vi blast eller regn?
Regn ? or rain ?
Fjorden er lidt urolig; The fjord is rather Fjdrden dr lltet orolig
der er Belger. rough ; there are (upprbrd) ; det gar
waves. vagor (bbljor).
Minkuffert(rejsetaske) My trunk (bag) con- Min koffert (reswdska)
indeholder ikke noget tains nothing dut- innehallar inte na-
toldpligtigt. iable. god tullbart.
Skyds and Guide.
Jeg vil saa sndrt sbm I wish to get a carri- Jcig ville sa fort scim
muligl ha(ve)enKa- ole with one horse mbjligt fa en skjuts-
riol (Kjcerre) og en as soon as possible ; kdrra (karriol) med
Hest ; to Karioler two carrioles with en hast, tva knrri-
med to Heste. two horses. oler med tva hdstar.
De maa vente lidt. Yon must wait a little. Ni far vdnta lltet.
Hvad koster "^fcf/dse/i What is the fare for the i/uac/ kostar skjutsen
til den nSste Sta- skyds to the next till nasta Stationen?
tion? station?
Hvor er Dogbogen? Where istheday-hook? Hvdr fins dagboken?
Hbs Slationshblderen, At the station-mas- Hos gdstglfvaren.
hos Skydsskdfferen. ter's.
Jeg vil strax reise vl- I wish to go on at Jag vill genast resa
dere. once. vldure.
Hvor er Skydskdrlen, Where is the driver? Hvdr dr kiisken
Outten ? (skjutspojken)?
22 DIALOGUES.
Dano-Norw'egian. English. Swedish.
Det er en god og flink That is a good and fast Det ar en god och rask
Hest. Hvor gammel horse. How old is hast. Eur gammal
er den? he? dr han?
Hesten er doven, der The horse is lazy, he Hasten dr Idt, hdr be-
behSves en Pldsk. needs a whip. Have ho fs en pi ska. Har
Hdr Du en? you one? Dunagon?
De kjerer for hurtigt You are driving too Ni kor for fort, for
(or — forl\ — lang- fast, too slow. langsamt.
somt !
Jeg vil gjerne komme I want to get to N. in Jag vill gerna komma
tldligt til iV., for at time to catch the iidigl (i god ltd) till
naa Damp slab et. steamboat. iV. for att hinna
(uppna) angbaten.
Jeg hdr glemtm'inVdd- I have forgotten my Jag hdr glomt mlnres-
scik ; gaa tilbdge og travelling-bag; go udska(nattsdck) ;ga
hent den. back and fetch it. tillbdka och hdmta
den.
Jeg har tdbt min Rei- I have lost my guide- Jag har forlorat min
sebdg. Jeg hdr fun- book. I have found reshandbdk. Jag har
det den igjen. it again. funnit den igen.
Stands tidl; vi vti Stop a little; we wish HaW fsiannaj iKef; vi
stige df, — vande to alight, — let the vilja stiga df, —
Hestene. horses drink. vattna hdstarna.
Kan jeg faa en Ferer, Can I get a guide, a Kan jag fa en fordre
en Ledsuger, en porter? (vdginsare), en Itd-
Bilrer? sdgdre, en bdrdre?
Hvor Icenge behever v'l How long will it take Huru lang tid behofva
at gaa lierfrd til N.? to go from here to vi att ga hdrifran
N.? tillN.?
Er Veien meget an- Is the way very fa- Ar vdgen mycket an-
strangende? — steil; tiguing, steep, bad, strungande? —
— daarlig ; — sum- marshy, stony ? brant ; — dalig ; —
pet; — stenet. sumpig ; — stenig.
Hvad koster en Hest ? What is the charge for Hvad kostar en hast ?
&. horse?
Hvor hei er Fererlen- How much is the fee Huru hog dr forurens
nen ? for the guide ? Ion ?
Hvor megen Bagdge How much luggage Huru mycket bdgdge
bcerer Fereren? does the guide carry? bdrar foraren?
Saa behSver vi ogsaa Then we must also Sa behofua vi ochsa en
en Barer. have a porter. bdrare.
Hvad er deft) der? What is that there? Hvad dr det der?
Der har gaaet en Skred An avalanche has fal- Der har ett ras dgt
ned. en Sneskred, len there, an av- rum, ett snoras, ett
en Jdrdskred. alanche of snow, a Jdrdras.
landslip.
DIALOGUES. 23
Dano-Norwkgian. English. Swtsdish.
Der er en Su'ter, men There is a sreter ; but Der cir en sdter, men
der hoer ingen. nobody lives in it. det hor ingen der.
DenneELvmaavivude Wemu.&twa.d.eth.TOugh. Den hdr cilfven (an)
over. tliis river. mastevivadqdfver.
Er der Sprcekker paa Are there crevasses in Fins det remnor pa
Braen? the glacier? glacieren?
Man maa stimmen- We mtist tie ourselves Man maste hlnda sig
bindes med et Toug . together with a tUlsammans med etl
rope. tag (ett rep).
Time.
Hvad or hvor mange What is the time ? Hvad dr klockan ?
er KLokken ? What o'clock is it ?
Klokken er to; /miy It is two o'clock; half ^iocfom dr tu (Iva) ;
toll} ; ire Kvarter t1.l past eleven ; a quar- half tolf ; tre quart
It; et Kvarter over ter to one; a quar- pa (or till) ett; en
ti i fern Minulter ter past ten; five qvart ofuer tw ; fern
over fire ; mangier minutes past I'oiir ; minuter ofver fTira ;
tre Minutter i syv. three minutes to fdttas tre minuter
seven. i sju.
Et L'r ,■ — Lommeur. A clock ; watch. Ett lir ; — fIckUr.
Et Aar ; halvt Aar; A year; half-year; Ett ar ; halft ar ; fjer-
Fjerdingaar, Rvdr- quarter. dedelsar.
tfil.
Foraar ; Sommer ; Spring; summer ; au- Var ; sommar; host;
Heist; Vinter. tumn; winter. vinter.
JTd; — Paaske ; — Christmas; Easter; Jid ; — Pask; —
Pintse: — Nijtaor. Whitsuntide; New Pingsthelg; — Nyar.
Year.
En Maaned; — Fjor- A month; a fortnight; Enmandd; — fjortun
ten Dage ; — En TJge. a week . dagar ; — en vecka.
Sendag, Mandag^ Sunday , Monday, Sbndag, Mandag, Tis-
Tirsdag^ Onsdag, Tuesday, Wednes- dag^Onsdag, Thors-
Torsdag, Fredag, day, Thursday, dag, Fredag, Lor-
L^rdag. Friday, Saturday. dag.
Helligdag ; — S^^ne- Holiday ; week-day. Helgdag, hogtidsdag ;
dag. — hvdrdag, ver.ko-
ddg.
Veiret er iddg smiikt, To-day the weather is Vddret dr i dag vac-
nien igaar vdr det fine, hut yesterday kert, men i gar var
meget stfigt; it was very had; det mycket daligt;
det regnede hele Da- it rained the whole det regnade hela
gen. day. dagen.
Imorgen fanrviBlivsl. We shall have wind ImorgTiv fa vi hlfist.
to-iuorroM'.
24
DIALOGUES.
Dano-Noewegian .
Veiret er merkt, Inm-
mert, varmt, koLdt,
foranderligt , sta-
digt.
Det regner ,• hagler ;
tordner ; lyner ; fry-
ser; sner.
Sendenvinden bringer
Skyer og Regn.
English.
The weather is dull,
sultry, -warm, cold,
changeable, settled.
It rains, hails, thun-
ders, lightens, free-
zes, snows.
The south wind brings
clouds and rain.
Det bliver kjeligt ; det It is getting cooler; it
klarer op. is clearing up.
SoLen stanr tldligt op. The sun rises early.
Soleii guar sent ned. The sun sets late.
Swedish.
Vddret dr mulet, qval-
migt, vdrmt, kallt,
ostddigt, stddigt.
Det regnar ; hdglar;
diindrar ,• bltxtrar ;
fryser ; snodr.
Sunnanvinden har
med sig moln och
regn.
Det blir kyligt; det
kldrnar upp.
Solen gar tidigt upp.
Solen gar sent ned.
Er De syg?
Jeg er ikke frisk
(or rdsU).
Skdl jeg gaa efter en
Ld-ge ?
Jeg hdr Tdndpine,
Hovedpine, 0replne,
Mdvepine, Diarrhe.
Jeg har forkelet mig.
Jeg fryser.
Jeg hdr ingen Feber,
men jeg trcenger til
Hvile.
Jeg har et daarligt
Ben; jeg har en
Blemme, en Bute
(Norw. Kut).
Health.
Are you ill '?
I am not well.
Shall I go for a doc-
tor?
I have got toothache,
a headache, earache,
pain in the stomach,
diarrhoea.
I have caught a cold.
I feel cold.
I have no fever, but I
need rest.
I have a sore foot ; I
have a blister , a
boil.
Ar Ni sjuk?
Jag mar inte bra.
Skall jug ga efter en
lakdre ?
Jag har tandvdrk,
hufoiidodrk^ drvdrk,
mdgplaga, diarrhe.
Jag har forkylat mig.
Jag fryser.
Jag har inte nagon
feber ^ men jag be-
hdfver hvila.
Jag har ondt i foten ;
jag har en blasa, en
svulst.
25
Dano-Norweqian .
Omirint (adv.); (im
_ (prep.J-
ovenpaa (adv.); over
(prep.).
ledsage (p. 6j.
vant til.
FordtL (-en).
efter (adv.) ; efterat
(conj.).
Eftermidday (-en).
slden efter.
alter, igjtn.
behdgellg.
ak.
sl'ige ned (p. 6).
ogsaa ; heller Ikke.
nllerede.
skjendt.
i alt, all.<idmmen.
&UU.
blandt.
morsom.
r,g^
kjedelig.
Svar (-et, pi. Svnr).
Arm (-en, -e).
omkrtng.
ankomme (p. 6).
da ; saa — soni.
stige (p. 6).
7 Lund, paa Landel.
spfirge (p. G ).
/, paa, vid ; (of time)
am.
hjeinme {jp. 8).
vitkke (p. ()).
bort, borte.
Ax-el (-len, -ler).
tllbilge.
daarlig, ond.
Siek (-ken, -ke).
Bdnksed-el (-eln,
-ler).
Barome-ter (■lri't,-lre). Barometer.
Vocabulary.
English.
About.
Above.
Accompany.
Accustomed to.
Advantage.
After.
Afternoon.
Afterwards.
Again.
Agreeable.
Ah, alas.
Alight.
Also ; also not.
Already.
Although.
Altogether.
Always.
Among.
Amusing.
And.
Annoying.
Answer.
Arm.
Around.
Arrive.
As ; as — as.
Ascend, mount.
Ashore (go), — (be),
Ask.
At.
At home.
Awake, to (trans.).
Away.
Axle.
Back.
Bad.
Bag.
Banknote.
Swedish.
Omkrfng ; (im.
vfvanpa ; ofver.
beledsaga.
van till.
for del (m.).
efter; ssdan.
eftermidday (m. ).
sedan .
iyin, alter.
iinyenum, hthayliy.
ack.
st'tga ned (p. 12).
ochsa ; hiille.r ioke.
redan.
ehuru.
alltsdmmans.
alltld.
ibland.
niyjsam, ridig.
nch.
fortr^tlig.
svilr (u.).
arm (m.).
omkrfng.
ankomma (p. 12).
da; sa — sam.
stlga (p. 12).
/■ land; pa landet.
fraga (p. 12).
pa, vld ; om.
hemma (p. 14).
vacka (p. 12).
bort, borta.
axel (m.).
tillbdka.
dalig.
sack, pase (m.).
bdnkseddel (ui.).
barometer (in.).
26
VOCABULARY.
Dano-Norwkgian. English.
lioUe (-n, -r), Vi'ind- Basin.
fad (-et, -e).
Kuro (-en, -e).
Bad (-et, -e).
vakker, deilig.
fordi.
blive (p. 7).
Seng (-en, -e).
Oxekjed (-et) ; lifstek
m (-let).
/'07'(adv.); /(ir(prep.)
bede (p. 7).
hag.
tro (p. 7).
nedenunder.
Keie (-n, -r).
rnellem.
Blaahar (^-et, pi. id.)
Regning (-en, -er).
binde (p. 7j.
sort.
Sengtceppe (-t, -r).
blcese (p. 7).
blaa.
Knst (-en); omlord.
Baad (-en, 'e).
Siimp (-en, -e).
koge (p. 7].
Bog (-en, Beger).
StSvler.
Flaske (-n, -r).
(iiit (-ten, -ter).
Brandevin (-en).
Bred (-el) : Snwrre-
hred.
brcekke, slaa i<u(p.7).
Frokost (-en).
Bro (-en, -er).
Temme (-n, -r) ; Rl-
devei (-en, -e).
bringe [p. 7).
ilu.
Btvk (-ken, -ke).
Basket.
Bath.
Beautiful.
Because.
Become.
Bed.
Beef; beefsteak.
Beer.
Before.
Beg.
Behind.
Believe.
Below.
Berth.
Between.
Bilberry.
Bill, account.
Bind.
Black.
Blanket.
Blow.
Blue.
Board f food | ; on
board.
Boat.
Bog.
Boil.
Book.
Boots.
Bottle.
Boy.
Brandy.
Bread ; bread and
butter.
Break.
Breakfast.
Bridge.
Bridle; bridle-path.
l?ring.
Broken (i7i two).
Brook.
SWKDISH.
fill, barken (n.).
kTirg (m.).
bad (n.j.
vacker, skon.
em'edan.
bUfva (p. 12).
sang (ui.).
oxkolt ; blfslek.
k{n.).
forut; for.
bedja (p. 12).
bak.
tro.
nere.
koj [m.].
mellan.
biabdr (n.).
rakning (in.).
binda (p. 12).
svart.
sdnglacke (n.).
blasa (p. 12).
hla.
kost (m.); ombbrd.
bat (m.).
giltlja (f.), sTimp(v[\.y
khka (p. 12).
bok (m.; backer).
slijflar.
butelj (m.).
gosse (ni.).
brdnvin (m.).
brud; smorgas.
bryta (p. 12).
frukost (ra.).
bro (f.).
(o>n(m.); r'tdevng.
bringa (p. 12),
isfir.
bark (m. ).
VOCABULARY.
27
Pan'o-Nouwkgian .
Broder ('-en, Bradrc).
BtfTste (-n, -r).
men.
Svwr (-et).
k^be (p. 7).
vcd(iiear); /br^n(past).
ranbe (p. 7).
Lys (-ct ; pi. id).
Hue (-n, -r).
T}ur (-en, -er).
Agt (-en) ; tcige sig i
Agt.
agtaom.
Vogn (-en, -e).
Karribl (-en, -er).
bnre (p. 7).
Kjrerre (-n, -r) ;
StoUcjctrre.
bestemt.
Stol (-en, -e).
sktfte ; (money ) vi.vle
(p. 7).
Smaapenge.
Pr'is (-en, -er).
billig.
()^t(-en); Gdimnelost.
Sierk (-en, -e).
Iurseb(rr[-et ; pi. id.).
KylUng (-en, -er).
Barn (-et. Barn).
Cigar (-ren, -rer).
Klasse (-n, -rj; fdrste,
anden Klasses Biljtt.
ren.
klar.
Kl(Tder.
Frakke (-n, -r).
Torsk (-en, -e).
Kap (-n).
kold ; jcg fryser.
komme (p. 7).
hehdgelig.
sifdvanlig, aluiindetig.
English.
Brother.
Brush.
But.
Butter.
Buy.
By.
Call, shout.
Candle.
Cap.
Capercailzie.
Care ; take care.
Careful.
Carriage.
Carriole.
Carry.
Cart; light cart with
seats.
Certain, decided.
Chair.
Change, to.
Change, small coins.
Charge.
Cheap.
Cheese ; goats' milk
cheese.
Chemise (Scottish,
sark).
Cherry.
Chicken.
Child.
Cigar.
Class; lirst, second
class ticket.
Clean.
Clear.
Clothes.
Coat.
Cod.
Coffee.
Cold ; I am cold.
Conic.
Comfortable.
Ciiiiuiion, usual.
Swedish.
broder (m. ; broder^.
borste (m.).
men.
smor (n.).
kopa (p. 12).
ved, nara ; forbl.
ropa (p. 12).
Ijus (n.).
hufva (f.).
tjiider (m.).
likt (in.) ; taga sig i
akt.
aktsnm, surgfciUig.
vagn (m.).
karribl (m.).
bar a (p. 12).
kdrra (f.).
bestarnd.
atol (m.). ^
hylta, forilndra ;
ve.vl(i (p. 12).
sma penningar .
prls (n.).
billig.
ost (m.).
sdrk (m.).
kcrshdr (n.).
kyckting (m. ).
ham (n.).
cigitrr (in. ).
klass (ni.); en biljeit
flirsta, andra klnas.
ren.
klar.
klader.
rock (m.).
torsk (m. ).
kafre{n.).
kail; jag fryser.
komma (p. 12).
behilglig.
allmdn, vanlig.
28
Dano-Nortvkgian.
Selskitb (-et, -er).
brlle (p. 7).
Lftnd (-et, -e).
koste fp. 7j.
Ko (-en, KSer).
FWde (-n).
Sprcrkke (-n, -r).
Kop (-pen, -per).
lUbs (-et; pi. id.).
skjcrre (p. 7).
daglig.
Fare (-n, -r) ; farlig.
mark ; Merke (-t).
Datter (-en, D'etre).
Dag (-en, -e).
kj(Tr (beloved); dyr.
dyb.
forlangc (p. 7).
stige ned fp. 7).
furskjellig.
V mskelig.
Middagsmad (-en),
Middag.
smiidsig.
stlge af(-p. 7).
A [stand (-en),
(jjere (p. 7).
L(rge (-n, -r).
Hand (-en, -e).
Der (-en, -e).
dobhelt.
ned; nedad (Bakkcn).
Klctde (-t, -r).
drikke (p. 7).
kjere (p. 7).
Kudsk (-en, -e).
f4r.
terre (p. 7).
om, tinder.
St0i) (-et).
tldlig (adj.); tidligt,
bellds (adv.).
'estlig, estre.
let.
VOCABULARY.
English.
SWKDISH.
Company.
siilL-'kap (n.).
Count, to.
talja (p. 12).
Country.
land (n.).
Cost, to.
kostn (p. 12).
Cow.
ko (f.).
Cream.
grridda (m.).
Crevasse.
spricka (f.).
Cup.
kop (ra.).
Currant.
vJnbar (n.).
Cut.
skara (p. 12).
Daily.
daglig.
Danger; dangerous
. farali.); farlig.
Dark ; darkness.
mijrk; mbrkhet (]u.^.
Daughter.
dotter (f. ; dottrar).
Day.
dagim.').
Dear.
kdr (beloved) ; dyr.
Deep.
djup.
Demand, ask (a price
0. fordra. (p. 12).
Descend.
stiga ned (p. 12).
Different.
atskiUig.
Difficult.
soar.
Dinner.
middag, middags-
maltid (m.).
Dirty.
smutsig.
Dismount.
stiga ned (p. 12).
Distance.
a f stand (n.).
Do, to.
gora (p. 12).
Doctor.
Idkare (m.).
Dog.
hund (m.).
Door.
dorr (f.).
Double.
dubbel.
Down ; downliill.
ned ; nedat (berget).
Dress.
kldde (n.).
Drink, to.
dricka (p. 12).
Drive (a carriage).
kora (p. 12).
Driver.
husk (m.).
Dry (adj.).
torr.
Dry, to.
torka(T>. 12).
During.
om, vnder.
Dust.
sloft (n.).
Early.
t'ldig (adj.); tidigt,
bittida (adv.).
Eastern.
osllig, ostra.
Easy.
Idtt.
VOCABULARY.
29
Danu-Norwkgian.
spi.ie.
ACg(-get, .■Eg) ; bleidl-
kogte , hnanlkogte,
Speilag.
enlen — eller.
Elsdyr (-eJ, p]. iil.).
engelsk ; Engelsk-
mand (-en. -m(Tnd) .
iwk.
Konvolut (-ten, -tcr).
Omegn (-en, -e).
Aften (-en, -er).
ooeralt.
langt ; bevars ; langt
herfru.
Bctaling (-en, -er),
Prls(-en,-er); Pris-
Moderation (-en).
Kost (-en), Splse (-n).
Guard (-en, -e).
hurtig.
Fader (-en, Firdre).
Besvftr (-et).
trirt.
frygle (p. 7).
Drikkepengc (pi.)'
Firrge (-n, -r).
faa.
Mark (-en, -er).
finde (p. 7).
JUi (-en).
fast.
fiske.
Fisk (-en, -e) ,• /'V.<fcc-
krog (-en, -e); Fiske-
ifnSre (-n, -r); Fixkc-
flange (stiPnger).
/lad,
Flynder (-ren, -re).
lilomal (-en, -cr).
Flue (-n, -r).
Taage (-n).
felge (p. 7).
Fod (-en , Feddcr) ;
til Fods.
English.
Eat, to.
Egg; soft, liard,
poached eggs.
Either — or.
Elk.
English ; English-
man.
Enough.
Envelope.
Environs.
Evening.
Everywhere.
Far; far from it; far
from here.
Fare (railway, etc.) ;
reduction of fare.
Fare (food).
Farm-house.
Fast.
Father.
Fatigue.
Fatigued.
Fear, to.
Fee, gratuity.
Ferry.
Few.
Field.
Find, to.
Fire.
I'irm.
Fish, to.
Fish ; Ashing - huok ;
flshing-line; fisii-
ing-rod.
Flat.
Flounder.
Flower.
Fly.
Fog.
Follow, lu.
Foot; on foot.
SwKDISH.
spiHd (p. 12); fita
(p. 12).
(igg (n.); loKkokta,
hardknkta , stekla
^ f'm-
antingen — eUer.
elg (ra. ).
engelsk ; Kngelsman
( m . ; -m'in).
nvg.^
kiivcrt (m.).
omliggandc Iraki (ui.).
afton (m.).
fifoerallt. ,
langt horta, fjarran.
betrdning{i,~), prJs (n.);
pris- moderation
(m.).
apis (m.).
gard (m.).
hurtig.
fader (ni. ; fader).
7noda(f.), hesimr (n.).
trott.
frvkla (p. 12).
drickspenningar (pi. ).
farjn (f.).
f&.
fait (n.).
finna (p. 12).
eld (m.).
fast,
fiiika.
Iisk(w.);»ulkri'ikln\.');
711 ctrc f (^in.); mctxpi]
(n.).
jamn.
fliindra (f.).
hlomma (f.j.
Iluga{i.\
dimnia (f. ). ,
folja{\>. 12).
fit (pi. f otter); till
f(ils.
6^)
VOCABULARY.
Dano-Nokwegian.
English.
SWKDISH.
th'i ; for.
For.
till; for.
ylemme (p. 7).
Forget.
glomma (p. 12).
Gaf-fel (-len, -ler).
Fork.
gaff el (m.).
fryse (p. 7).
Freeze.
frysa (p. 12).
frisk, fersk.
Fresli.
frtsk, fdrsk.
\^n (-nen, -ner).
Friend.
van (m.).
Frugt(-en, -cr); Ked-
■ Fruit; fruit- jelly.
frukt (m.).
grSd (-et).
fald, fuldsUendig.
Full, complete.
full.
fra.
From.
fran.
Vildt; Leg (-en, -e).
Game; a game.
vildbrad (n.); icfc^m.).
Port (-en, -e).
Gate.
port (m.).
Flur (-et).
Gauze.
/?or (n.).
Herre (-n, -r).
Gentleman.
herre (m.).
faa ; stlge ned, ind, op ■
Get; get down , gei
t fa ; st'ign ncd , in.
komme frem.
in, get up; get on,
upp; komma fravi.
P'lge, Jcnte (-n, -r).
Girl.
flicka (f.).
give (p. 7).
Give.
glfva (p. 13).
Bra; (-en, -er), Jekel Glacier.
Isberg (n.).
(-len, -ler).
glad; det glmder mig .
Glad; I am glad.
glad, fornojd.
Olas (set, pi. id.}.
Glass.
gljis (n.).
Hnndske (-r).
Glove.
handske (-ar).
gaa (p. 7).
Go, to.
ya (p. 13).
god.
Good.
god.
Oro's (set).
Grass.
grds (n.).
smWre.
Grease, to.
smorja.
grein.
Green.
gron.
Gcv(fr(-el-er) ; Kriidt Gun; gunpowder.
gevdr (n.); kriit [n.).
(-et).
HiKir (-e<,~pl. id.).
Hair.
har (ii.).
Skinke (-n, -r).
Ham.
skinka (f.).
Hannd(-en, H<Tnder)
. Hand.
hand (f. ; hdnder').
LommeterkUede (-t,
-r).
Hare (-n, -r).
Handkerchief.
ndsduk (m.).
Hare.
hare (m.).
Sketei (-et).
Harness.
seldon (n.).
Hat (-ten, -te).
Hat.
halt (m.).
He (-et).
Hay.
ho (n.).
Hoved (-et, -er).
Head.
hufvud (n.).
tang.
Heavy.
tnng.
htcrlpe (p. 7).
Help.
hjclpa (p. 13).
lier.
Here.
hdr.
Sild. (-en, pi. id.).
Herring.
sill (f.).
hei.
High.
hijg.
VOCABULARY.
31
Dan'o-Noiuvkgian .
Biikke(-n,-r); hulcket.
Ivrre (p. 7).
hohle (f. 7).
hi em.
(trliy.
Krog (-en, -e).
haabe (p. 7).
Jiest (-en, -e).
litd, varm.
lime (-n, -r).
Hhs (-et, -e).
hvorledes.
siilten.
Jiigl (-en).
Mand (-en, Mand).
Is (-en); y.s0,fe (-n,
om, dtrsXim., hvls.
ilde (adj. syg^.
strnx.
I ; ind, inde (atlv. ).
for tit.
virkelig.
Bl(tk (-kel).
Vdrlshug (-et , -e).
Vifrt (-en, -er).
islidetfor.
Tolk (-en, -e).
Jem.
0 (-er),HuLm (-en,-e);
Skjcer [-et, pi. id.);
Skjargaard (uden-
skjcers, indennkjars).
Reise (-n, -r).
Krukke (-n, -r).
springe (p. 7 ).
hehi'dde (p. 7).
Kjed-el (-len, -lev),
god, venliy.
Konge (-n, -r).
Kn'in (-en, -e).
bunke (p. 7),
vide (a facO ', kjende
(a person ; p. 7j.
English.
Swedish.
Hill; hilly.
bdcke (m.); bdckig.
Hire.
hjjra (p. 18).
Hold.
hallii (p. 13).
Home.
hem .
Honest.
drlig.
Hook.
krok (m.).
Hope, to.
hoppas (p. 13).
Horse.
heist (m.).
Hot.
het, varm.
Hour.
timma (f.).
House.
has (n.).
How.
htiru .
Hungry.
hungrig.
Hunt, sliootins-purty
•>V(f)- . ,
Husband.
miin (m. ; indn}.
Ice; ice-axe.
Is (m.).
If.
om.
111.
Ula (adj. sjuk).
Immediately.
g inn St .
In.
I; in, inne (adv.).
lu order tliat.
fiJr att.
Indeed.
jd sa; virkligen.
Ink.
Iddck (n.).
Inn.
yiisty'ifvtiregaril ( m.),
Innkeeper.
vdrd (m.).
Instead of.
i stdllet for.
Interpreter.
talk (m.).
Iron.
jern.
Island ; rocky island :
; ii (f.); .sA:«r(n.); skiir-
belt of islands (out-
gard (utoinskurs.
side , inside the
! inomskdrs).
belt).
Journey.
rtsa (f.).
Jug.
kruka (f.).
Jump.
springa.
Keep, to.
behaUa(j^. 13).
Kettle.
kittel (m.).
Kind.
god, vdnliy.
King.
konung ( m . ).
Knife.
knif (m.).
Knock.
klappa (p. 13).
Know.
vein : kdjinn (p. 13).
32
VOCABULARY.
Daxo-Norweoian.
English.
Dame (-n, -r); FrSken Lady ; young l.nly.
(-en, -er).
S3 (-en, -er) ; Vand Lake.
(-et, -e).
Land (-et, -e).
Sprog {-et, pi. id.).
stor.
sldst ; ifjor.
sent.
Iceyge (p. 7).
litre (p. 7j.
Land.
Language.
Large.
Last; last year.
Late.
Lay, put.
Learn.
nindst; idetniindste. Least; at least.
forldde; tfterlude. Leave; leave behind
igjen, tilovers.
venstre.
Ben (-et, -e).
lade (p. 7); slippe
(p. 7).
Brev (-et, -e).
find, jcEvn.
Ligge (p. 7).
tiende.
Lys [-et, pi. id.).
let.
klar, lys.
lig, ens.
synes om, like (p. 7).
liden (pi. srnaa; adv.
11 dt)-, noget.
Logi (^-et; pron. as in
French).
lung.
l0S.
tabe (p. 7).
lav.
Tei (-et) ; Bagdge (-n).
Mand (-en, Mand).
Kort, Landkort (-et).
Sump, Myr (-en).
Fyrstikker.
Mening (-en, -er), Be-
tydning (-en, -er).
Kjf,d.
Left(remainingover),
Left (hand).
Leg.
Let; let go, let fall.
Letter.
Level.
Lie.
Light, kindle, to.
Light (subst.).
Light (in weight),
easy.
Light, clear, bright.
Like (adj.).
Like, to.
Little; a little.
Lodging.
Long.
Loose, slack.
Lose, to.
Low.
Luggage.
Make, see Do.
Man.
Map.
Marsh.
Matches.
Meaning.
Meat.
SWBDISH,
diima (f.), froken (f.).
sji) (m.).
land (u.).
sprak (u.).
stor.
slst ; ifjor.
sent.
Idgga (p. 13).
Idra (p. 13).
mlnsta ; i det minsla.
lenina ; lemna qvur
,(p. 13).
igen, qour.
venstra.
ben (n.).
lata (p. 13); sliippa
(p. 13).
bref (u.).
jdmn.
ligga (p. 13).
tdnda (p. 13).
Ijus (n.).
latt.
klar, Ijus.
Ilk.
tycka om, Ilka.
llten (pi. sma) ; Ittet,
nagot.
boning (f.).
lang.
Ids.
fvrlora (p. 13).
lag.^
bagdge (n.).
man (m. ; man).
kdrta (f.).
myra (f.), mosse (m.).
tdndstickor.
mening (f.), betydning
(f.).
k'i'ill (n.).
VOCABULARY.
33
Dano-Norwegian .
istandscette, repar^re,
udbedre.
Sindebud (-ef , pi. id.).
Middag (-en).
Mnlnat (-ten).
MIL (-en, Mil or
Mite).
Mtlk (-en),
tuge feii (p. 7).
0iebl'ik (-ket, -ke).
Penge (pi.).
■Maaned (-en, -er).
Maane (-n, -r).
mere (pi. flere).
mtst (pi. fleste).
Moder (-en, MSdre).
stlge, sidde op (p. 7).
Fjeld (-et, -e).
meget.
Sinop (-pen).
Faarekjed (-et).
Negl (-en, -e).
Navn (-et, -e).
kalde; hedde (p. 7).
ncer, ved.
ncesten.
Synaal (-en, -e).
Ncerhed (-en).
darn [-et, pi. id.),
Net (-tet, pi. id.).
aldrig.
AuTs (-en, -er).
ncBst.
Nat (-ten. Natter) ;
om Natten.
nei (Dan. nai^.
Stei, Lurm (-en).
Middag (-en).
Nord (-en); nordlig.
norsk.
ikke ; slet ikke.
nu.
tngensteds.
Aare (-n, -r).
English. Swedish.
satta i stand; re-
par era.
bud (n.).
middag (m.).
midnatt (f.).
mU (f.).
mjolk (f.).
am. rnisstaga sig(T^. 13).
ogonbliek (n.).
penningar (pi.).
rnanad (m.).
mane (m.).
mer, mera (pi. flera).
rnest, mesta (pl.//esta).
moder (f. ; modre).
st'iga, sitta upp (p. 13).
fjdll (n.).
mycket.
senap (m.).
farkott (n.).
niigel (m.).
namn (n.).
to \>e kalla ; held (p. 13).
ndra, ved.
ndstan.
synal (f.).
ndrhet (f.).
ndt, gurn (ii.).
Mend.
Messenger.
Midday.
Midnight.
Mile.
Milk.
Mistake, make
Moment.
Money.
Month.
Moon.
More.
Most.
Mother.
Mount.
Mountain.
Much.
Mustard.
Mutton.
Nail (finger).
Name.
Name , call ;
named.
Near.
Nearly.
Needle.
Neighbourhood
Net.
Never.
Newspaper.
Next.
Night; at night.
No.
Noise.
Noon.
North ; northern.
Norwegian.
Not; not at all.
Now.
Nowhere.
Oar.
aldrig.
tidning (f.).
ndst.
natt (f.; natter); om
natten.
nej.
buller (n.).
middag (m.).
nord (m.); nordlig.
norsk.
icke ; sldtl icke.
nu.
ingenstddes.
ara (f.).
34
VOCABULARY.
Dano-Norwbgian.
Klokken ; Klokken er
fire, et kvarter til
sex, halv syv, tre
kvarter til otte.
uf ; naturligvls.
Kontor (-et, -e).
Embede (-t, -r).
ofle, ttdt.
Olie (-n).
gammcl.
paa.
engang.
kun.
naben.
aabne (p. 7).
eller.
ligeoverfor.
hestille (p. 7).
over.
ud; ude.
Pandekage (-n, -r).
Papir (-et).
Forladelse (-n).
Prastegaard (-en, -e).
ls(Mr.
dels.
Agerhene (-n, -hems).
forbi.
betale (p. 7).
Betrding ('-en, -er).
Bonde (-n, Bender).
Pind (-en, -e).
Pen (-nen, -ne).
Folk (-et, pi. id.).
Peb-er (-ren).
kanske, maaske.
Person (-en, -er).
FotografT (-en, -er).
Prospektkort.
Stykke (-t, -r).
Bro (-en, -er).
Lods (-en, -er).
Nnal (-en, -e).
P'lbe (-n, -r).
English.
O'clock; it is 4, 5. 15,
6. 30, 7. 45 o'clock.
Of; of course.
Office (counting-
house).
Office (appointment).
Often.
Oil.
Old.
On.
Once.
Only.
Open (adj.).
Open, to.
Or.
Opposite. .
Order, to.
Over, upwards of.
Out; outside.
Pancake.
Paper.
Pardon.
Parsonage.
Particularly.
Partly.
Partridge.
Past.
Pay, to.
Payment.
Peasant.
Peg, pin.
Pen.
People.
Pepper.
Perhaps.
Person.
Photograph.
Picture post-card.
Piece.
Pier.
Pilot.
Pin.
Pipe.
Swedish.
klockan ; klockan dr
fyra, en qvart ofver
fern , half sju , tre
qvart pa atta.
af ; naturligtins.
kontor (n.).
Sinbele (n.).
ofta.
olja ({.).
gdmmal.
pa.
en gang.
blott ; endast.
oppen.
bppna (p. 13).
eller.
rmdt emot.
hestdlla (p. 13).
ofver.
ut; ute.
pdnnkaka (f.).
papper (n.).
ursiikt (f.).
prestgard (m.).
synnerl'igen.
dels.
rdpphona (f. ; -ns).
forbi.
betdla (p. 13).
betdlning (f.).
Sonde (m., pi. biJnder),
pinne (m.).
penna (f.).
folk (n.).
peppar (m.).
kanskE.
person (m.).
fotografi (f.).
prospektkort.
stycke (n.).
bro (f.).
lots (m.).
nal (f.).
vipa (f.).
Dano-Nohwrgian.
Sled (-et, -erj, Plads
(-en, -er).
Tallirken (-en, -er).
behagelig.
vitr sua god.
Forneielse (-n, -r).
heflig.
fdttig ; stdkkels.
Bitrer (-en, -e).
midig ; mUligvis.
Porto (-en); Frimarke
J-t,jT).
Skydsgnt (-ten, -ter).
Skpdsskd/fer (-en, -e).
Postkontor (-et).
Skydsstation (-en,-er).
Putite (-n, -r), Kar-
tof-fel (-ten , -let),
pan, smiik.
Pris (-en, -er).
rlmelig ; rimellgo'is.
udtale (p. 7).
UdtrUe (-n).
Providnt (en).
Ilypc (-n, -r).
siftte (p. 7); spcpude
Jor (p. 7).
hiirtig ; hurtigt (fort).
Jernhane (-n , -r) ;
Banegaiird(-en,-e).
llegn (-en).
rcgne (p. 8).
Utnbivr (-e<, pi. id.).
l(ese (p. 8).
far dig.
regne (p. 8).
r'lid.
Rtnsdyr(-et, pi. id.).
Teller, Temmer (pi.).
behSve (p. 8).
hinle (p. 8).
komme or gaa tilbdge.
Len (-nen).
Baand (-et).
VOCARULARy.
6b
English.
Swedish.
Place.
plats (m.).
Plate.
tfillrik (m.).
Pleasaut.
angendm.
Please.
var sa god.
Pleasure.
fornojelse (f.).
Polite.
hoflig.
Poor.
fattig; stackars.
Porter.
bdrare (m.).
Possible; possibly.
rnbjllg; mojligen.
Postage ; postage-
porta (n.) ; frimdrkt
stamp.
(n.).
Post-boy.
skjutspojke (m.).
Post-master.
pSstmdstare (m.).
Post-oftice.
pdstkontor (n.).
Posting-station.
skjutsstation (f.).
Potato.
potdtls (pi.).
Pretty.
tack, vacker.
Price.
pris (n,).
Probable; probably.
sdnnolik.
Pronounce.
uttdla (p. 13).
Pronunciation.
uttal fn.).
Provisions.
providnt (m.).
Ptarmigan.
rip a (f.).
Put; put to (horses)
. sdtta (p. 13), spanna
yor(p.j3).
Quick ; quickly.
hurtig ; fort, hurtigt.
Railway ; railway-
jernbdna ; bdngard
station.
(m.).
Rain.
regn (n.).
RaiTi, to.
regna (p. 13).
Raspberry.
hallon (n.).
Read, to.
Idsa (p. 13).
Ready.
far dig.
Reckon, to.
rakna (p. 13).
Red.
rod.
Reindeer.
ren (m.).
Reins.
tygel (m.).
Require.
behofva (p. 13).
Rest, to.
hvlla (p. 13).
Return (intrans. v.).
vdnda; resa tiUbacka
.(p. 13).
Reward, wages.
Uin (f.).
Ribbon.
band (n.).
36
Dano-Norwbgian .
rig.
ride.
rlgtig ; De har Eet.
he ire.
Elv (-en, -e).
Vei (-en, -e).
stege.
Vcerelse (-t, -r).
Toug (-et), Reb (-et).
ujavn , (of water)
urolig.
rundt om.
roe (p. 8).
Roerskijrl (-en, -e).
lehe (p. 8).
Sad-el (-len, -ler).
sticker.
Lax (-en, pi. id.).
Salt (-et, -e).
Sand (-en) ; sandig.
Saus (-en),
slge (p. 8).
Sax (-en, -e).
Se (-en, -er).
sesyg.
sende (p. 8).
see (p. 8).
sege (p. 8).
sj&lden.
scelge (p. 8).
Tjener (-en , -e) ;
Fige (-n, -r).
Stange (-n, Stitnger).
grund.
Lagen (-et, -er).
Skjorte (-n, -r).
Sko (-en, -e).
skyde.
Butik (-ken , -ker) ;
Handler (-en, -e).
kort.
Hag-el (-len).
lukke (p. 8).
lukket.
«yg-
side (-n, -r).
VOCABULARY.
English.
Swedish.
Rich.
rlk.
Ride.
rlda (p. 13).
Right; you are right
. rtktig ; Nl har rati.
Right (hand).
hoger.
River.
elf or dlf (f.).
Road.
vdg (m.).
Roast, to.
steka (p. 13).
Room.
rum (n.).
Rope.
rep (n.).
Rough.
ojdmn, (of water)
orolig.
Round.
rundt om.
Row, to.
rq (p. 13).
Rower.
roddare (m.).
Run, to.
lopa (p. 13).
Saddle.
sadel (m.).
Safe.
sdker.
Salmon.
lax (m.).
Salt.
salt (n.).
Sand; sandy.
sand (m.); sandig.
Sauce.
sas (m.).
Say, to.
saga (p. 13).
Scissors.
sax (f.).
Sea.
sjo (m.).
seasick.
sjosjuk.
Send, to.
sanda (p. 13).
See, to.
s|(p. 13).
Seek, to.
soka (p. 13).
Seldom.
sallan.
Sell, to.
sdlja (p. 13).
Servant; servant girl,
. tjanare (m.); flicka
(f.)
Shaft (of a carriage)
. iistel (m.).
Shallow.
grund.
Sheet.
lakan (n.).
Shirt.
skjorta (f.).
Shoe.
sko (m.).
Shoot, to.
skjuta (p. 13).
Shop ; shop-keeper.
buttk (m.); Hand-
lande (m.).
Short.
kort.
Shot.
hagel, skrot (n.).
Shut, to.
stdnga (p. 13).
Shut.
slutit.
Sick.
sjuk.
Side.
sula (f .).
VOCABULARY.
6
Dano-Norwegian .
English.
Swedish.
siden (of time) ; fordl
, Since.
sZdan ; emidan.
efterdi (causal).
mp (-pet).
Sip.
Slip (m.).
enkelt.
Single.
enkel.
Sest-er (-ren, -re).
Sister.
syster (f.).
sidde (p. 8).
Sit, to.
sitta (p. 13).
save.
Sleep, to.
sofva (p. 13).
Idngsom.
Slow.
langsum.
S(trk (-en, -e).
Smock.
sdrk (m.).
ryge (intr.); rege
Smoke, to.
ryka; rofca (p. 13).
(trans.).
Sneppe (-n, -r).
Snipe.
sndppa (f.).
Sne (-en).
Snow.
sno (m.).
sne (p. 8).
Snow, to.
snoa (p. 13).
saa (conj.); saaledes So.
sa; sa'tedes.
(thusX
Scebe (-n).
Soap.
sapa (f.).
sagte.
Softly (gently, slowly)
. sakta.
undertiden.
Sometimes.
stundom.
snart.
Soon.
sndrt.
bedrSvet ; del gjer
Sorry ; I am sorry.
bedrofvnd; det gor
mig ondt.
mig ondt.
Suppe (-n).
■ Soup.
soppa (f.).
Syd (-en); sydlig.
South; southern.
syd (m.) ; iydlig.
tfde.
Speak, to.
tdla (p. 13).
Skee (-n, -r).
Spoon.
sked (f.).
Vaar (-en).
Spring.
war (f.).
Staid (-en, -e).
Stable.
stall (n.).
Skifte (-t, -r).
Stage.
skifte (n.).
Frimivrke (-t, -r).
Stamp.
frimdrke (n.).
stna (p. 8).
Stand, to.
Station, see posting-
railway-station.
sta (p. 13).
dfgaa, gaa hort (p. 8).
Start, to.
dfga (p. 13).
Dumpsklb (-et, -e).
Steamer.
angbat (ni.).
Opvarter (-en, -e).
Steward.
uppassare (m.).
Stok (-ken, -ke).
Stick.
staf (m.).
endnii.
Still.
dnnu.
Stigbeile (-n, -r).
Stirrup.
stlgbogel (m.).
Strempe (-n, -r).
Stocking.
striimpa (f., pi. -or)
Sten (-en, -e);sienet.
Stone ; stony.
sten (m.); stenig.
standse (^p. 8).
Stop, to.
sta stilla (p. 13).
Ityefrem.
Straight on.
rukt fram.
Rem (-men, -mer).
Strap.
rem (f.).
Jordbar (-et; pi. id,).
Strawberry.
smultron^[n.).
37
5«
VOCABULARY.
DANO-NoaWEGIAN .
English.
Swedish.
Sir em (-men, -me).
Stream.
Strom (m.).
Snor (-en, -e), Snere String.
snore (n.).
(-11, -r).
slcerk
Strong.
stark.
saadan.
Such.
sadan.
Suk-ker (-ren).
Sugar.
socker (n.).
Som-mer (-ren, -re).
,■ Summer; in sum-
sommar (m.) ; om
om Somren.
mer.
sommaren.
SoL (-en, -e).
Sun.
s5l (f.).
Aftensmud (-en).
Supper.
aftonmaltld (m.).
Bord (-et, -e).
Table.
lord (n.).
tage (p. 8) ; serge for Take ; take care
of.
tiiga ; hnfva omsorg
(p. 8).
om (p. 13).
Takst (-en, -er).
Tariff.
taxa (f.).
Tee (-n).
Tea.
te (n.).
Kikkert (-en, -er).
Telescope.
teleskbp (n.).
end.
Than.
an.
Tak ; mange Tak.
Thanks; many thanks
. tackar; — sa mycket.
at.
That.
all.
iovermorgen.
The day after to-
■mor-
■ i ofvermorgon.
row.
,
iforgaars.
The day before
terday.
yes-
■ for gar.
da, paa den Tld.
Then.
da, pa den tld.
der.
There.
der.
tyk.
Thick.
tjock.
tynd.
Thin.
tunn.
Sag (-en, -er).
Thing.
sFxk ({.).
twnke (p. 8).
Think.
tdnka (p. 13).
terstig.
Thirsty.
torstig.
iaften; imorges.
This evening;
morning.
this
i dfton; i morse.
did.
Thither.
dit.
Traad (-et, pi. id.).
Thread.
trad (m.).
tre Oange.
Three times.
tre ganger.
gjennem.
Through.
genom.
Biljet (-ten, -ter).
Ticket.
biljelt (n.).
triit.
Tired.
trott.
fast.
Tight.
fast.
indtU ; ikke fer.
Till ; not till.
till, intill; icke for.
Tld (-en, -er).
Time.
tld (m.).
ill.
To.
till.
Tobak (-ken, -ker).
Tobacco.
tobak (m.).
idag ; imorgen.
To-day; to-morrow.
i dag ; i mbrgon.
sammen.
Together.
ihop, tillsdmmans.
VOCABULARY.
39
DAN0-N0RWKGIA.N. English.
for (meget, etc.). Too (much, etc.).
Tup (-pen, -pe). Top.
mod. Towards.
Haandklcede (-t, -r).
By (-en, -er).
Tog (-et, pi. id.).
(Jversivttelse (-n, -r).
reise (p. 8).
Besvar (-et) ; besvar-
lig.
Binklceder .
0rret (-en, -er).
sand; del er sandt.
Kuffert (-en, -er).
Sdndhed (-en, -er).
fnrsSge.
to Gange.
styg.
Paraply (-en, -er).
ubestemt.
■tinder.
furstaa (p. 8).
uhehdgelig.
op, oppe ; opad (Bak-
ken).
pan.
Brug(-en), Nytte(-n),
hruge (p. 8).
scedvdnlig, almindelig.
Ddl (-en, -e).
VardJ (-en, -er).
Grensnger.
Slur [-et, pi. Id.).
meget.
Ldsigl (-en , -er).
Ldndsby (-en, -er).
pAdIke (-n).
BesSg (-et, pi. id.).
SSrei.ie (-n, -r).
vente (p. 8).
Opvdrter (-en, -e).
Spadsergang(-cn, -e).
vann ; jeg er variu.
Towel.
Town.
Train.
Translation.
Travel, to.
Trouble ; trouble-
some.
Trousers.
Trout.
True ; that is true.
Trunk.
Truth.
Try.
Twice.
Ugly.
Umbrella.
Uncertain.
Under.
Understand.
Unpleasant.
Up ; uphill.
Upon.
Use.
Use, to.
Usual.
Valley.
Value.
Vegetables.
Veil.
Very.
View.
Village.
Vinegar.
Visit.
Voyage.
Wait.
Waiter.
Walk.
Warm ; I am warm.
SWEUISH.
fiir (inycket).
spets (m.).
emot.
handduk (m.).
by (m.).
tag (n.).
dfversdttning (f.J.
resa (p. 13).
6esvar(n.); besvdrlig.
benkldder.
for ell (m.).
sann ; det dr sannt.
koffert (m.).
sanning (f.).
forsoka (p. 13).
tva gangar.
stygg.
regnskarm (m.).
dbestdmd.
under.
forsta (p. 13).
obehugelig.
rip, uppe ; nppat
(backen),
pa.
bruk (n.).
bruka (p. 13).
vdnlig.
d~d (m.).
vdrde (n.).
gronsuker.
sloja (f.).
mycket.
utslgt (f.).
bondby (m.).
attikn (f .).
besok (n.).
sjoresa (f.).
vdnta (p. 13).
uppdssare (m.).
spatssrgang (m.).
vdrm; Jag dr vann.
40
VOCABULARY.
Dano-Nor^egian .
vadske (p. 8).
Vadskerkone (-n, -r).
Vand (et, -e).
hokum (-met).
Fos (sen, -ser).
suag.
Veir (-et).
Vge (-n, -r).
frisk, sund.
Br end (-en, -er), Kilde
^ (-n^ -r).
vel, godt.
Vest (-en) ; vestlig,
fugtig, vaad.
Hjul {-et, pi. id.).
Pidsk (-en, -e).
naar, hvad Tid.
da (past), naar (pre-
sent or future).
hvor.
m^dens.
hvor for.
Hustru (-en, -er).
Vind (-en, -e).
Vindue (-t, -r).
Vm (-en, -e).
enske (p. 8).
tned.
inde.
Kvinde (-n, -r).
Skov (-en, -e).
Ord {-et, pi. id.).
Arheide (-t, -r).
viFrd.
skrlve (p. 8j.
urigtig, gal, , falsk ;
jeg har Vret.
Aar {-et, pi. id.).
gul.
igaar.
ja, jo (see p. 16).
ung.
English.
Wash.
Washerwoman.
Water.
Water-closet.
Waterfall.
Weak.
Weather.
Week.
Well (in health).
Well (subst.).
Well (adv.).
West; -western.
Wet.
Wheel.
Whip.
When (interrog.).
When (conj.).
Where.
While.
Why.
Wife.
Wind.
Window.
Wine.
Wish, to.
With.
Within.
Woman.
Wood.
Word.
Work.
Worth (adj.).
Write. '
Wrong ; I am wrong.
Year.
Yellow.
Yesterday.
Yes.
Young.
Swedish.
tvdtta (p. 13).
tvatterska {{.).
vatten (n.).
nftrdde (n.).
fSrs (m.).
svag.
vader (n.).
vecka (f.).
frisk, sund.
brunn (m.), kdlla (f.).
vdl, godt.
vest (m.); vestlig.
fuktig, vat.
hjul (n.).
plska (f.).
ndr.
da; ndr.
hvdr.
middn.
t
hvarfbr.
husfru, fru (f,).
vind (m.).
fonster (n.).
vin (n.).
onska (p. 13).
tned.
inne.
qvinna (f.).
skog (m.).
ord (n.).
drhete (n.).
vdrd.
skrifva (p. 13).
fdlsk, nrigtig ; jag har
ordtt.
ar (n.).
gul.
igar.
jd; ju (see p. 15).
ung.
Leipsic : Printed by Breitkopf & Hartel.
Leipzig: Karl Baedeker.
1903.
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA-LOS ANGELES
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