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twentieth Edition. 1903. 8 marks.
TONVERSATION, in four languages. 3 marks
NORWAY, SWEDEN,
AND
DENMARK
Money Table.
(Couip. p. xi.)
s.
d.
kr.
0.
kr.
0.
t.
d.
1
—
—
90
I
—
1
i'/a
2
—
1
80
2
—
2
22/3
3
—
2
70
3
—
3
4
4
—
3
60
4
—
4
5'/3
5
—
4
50
5
—
5
6^3
6
—
5
40
6
—
C
8
7
—
G
30
7
—
7
9V3
8
—
7
20
8
—
8
lO'Va
9
—
8
10
9
—
10
—
10
—
9
—
10
—
11
I'/s
20
■-
18
-
18 1 -
20
Measures.
(Cump. p. vi.)
KuglisL
Metres
Nurweg.
Swedish
Fnti;lislj
Kilo-
Niirwet;.
Feet
Feet
Feet
Miles
metres
Miles
0,97
0,29
0,94
1
0-02
1
0.„9
1
0,30
0,97
1,02
1
1.009
0,1424
l,(«!l
0,31
1
1,05
2
3.218
0,28
2
0,cil
1,S4
2,05
3
4.827
l"-.«
3
0,.,i
2,9,
3,08
4
6.436
0,57
3,.^
I
3,, 9
3,37
5
8.045
0,71
4
I,..
3,88
4,10
96.54
0,85
fi
1,5-^
4,85
5,13
C,(i4
1U.US3
0,94
U
1,83
5,82
0,10
7
11.263
1
7
2,,3
t>,«u
7,18
8
12.872
l,u
8
2,^4
7,77
8,21
9
14.481
1,28
9
2,74
8,74
9,24
10
10.090
1,42
10
3,06
9,71
10,20
14
22.526
2
M
15,24
48,:,,
51,30
20
32.18(J
2,85 •
4
lOU
30,48
97,14
1U2,65
21
33.789
3
/ 1
f
o
"'"^" T^-'^f^
» > iCV-j
■""?%!
- ^ x'^
1 S /V
i
NORWAY, SWEDEN,
AND
DENMARK
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
HY
KARL BAEDEKER
WITH 37 MAPS, 11 PLANS, AND THREE PANORAafAS
EIGHTH EDITION
Rkviskp and Auomknttp
LEIPSIC: KARL BAEDEKEH, PUBLISHER
1903
All Bighln reserved
'Go, little book, God send thee good passage,
And specially let this be thy prayere:
Unto them all that thee will read or hear,
Where thou avt wrong, after their help to call,
Thee to correct in any part or all.'
- H
PEEFACE. B(3
— rio3
1 he object of the Handbook for Norway, .Sweden, and
Denmark, which now appears for the eighth time, carefully
revised and partly rewritten, is to supply information regard-
ing the most interesting scenery and characteristics of these
countries, witli a few notes on the history, languages, and
customs of the inhabitants. Like the Editor's other hand-
books, it is based on personal acquaintance with the countries
described, the chief places in which he has visited repeatedly.
His efforts to secure the accuracy and completeness of the
work have been supplemented by the kind assistance of sev-
eral gentlemen, Norwegian, Swedish , Danish, English, and
German, to whom his best thanks are due. He will also grate-
fully receive any corrections or suggestions with which trav-
ellers may favour him. Within the last few years Norway has
grown rapidly in popularity with the travelling public, and a
number of new roads, railways, and steamboat-routes, with
corresponding new hotels, have recently been opened. The
most important of these are carefully noted in the present
edition. It should be noted that the data concerning means
of communication generally refer to the summer-service onl}';
before mid -June and after August travelling facilities,
especially on the fjords and lakes, are much more limited.
Th(^ present volume, like Baedeker's Switzerland, may
be used either as a whole, or in its separate sections, which
for the convenience of travellers may be removed from the
volume without falling to pieces. These sections are — (I)
Introductory Part, pp. i-lxxxii; (2) S. and E. Norway, as far
as Trondhjem, pp. 1 to 8G ; (3) W. Norway, as far as Trond-
hjem, pp. S7 to 228 ; (4) N. Norway, pp. 229 to 270 ; (5) Sweden,
pp. 271 to 4(14; f«) Denmark, pp. 40.5 to 450; (7) Index, pp.451
to 486 ; (8) Grammars, at the end of the volume.
On the Maps and Plans the Editor has bestowed special
care, and he believes they will be found to suffice for all
ordinary travellers.
In the letter-press Heights are given approximately in
English feet, in the maps in metres (I metre = 3.28 Engl. ft. ;
1 Norw. ft. = 1.029 Engl. ft. ; 1 Swed. ft. = 0.974 Engl. ft.).
Distances are given in kilometres, as the tariffs for carioles
and boats are now calculated on the metric system (comp.
p. vi). The Populations and other statistics are from the
most recent official sources.
vi ABBREVIATIONS.
In the Handbook are enumerated both the first-chiss hotels
and those of humbler pretensions. The asterisks indicate
those hotels which the Editor has reason to believe from his
own experience, as well as from information supplied by
numerous travellers, to be respectable, clean, reasonable,
and fairly well provided with the comforts and conveniences
expected in an up-to-date establishment. Houses of a more
primitive character, when good of their class, are described
as 'fair' or 'very fair'. At the same time the Editor does not
doubt that comfortable quarters may occasionally be obtained
at inns which he has not recommended or even mentioned.
Although prices generally have an upward tendency, the
average charges stated in the Handbook will enable the trav-
eller to form a fair estimate of his expenditure.
To hotel-keepers , tradesmen, and others the Editor begs
to intimate that a character for fair dealing towards trav-
ellers forms the sole passport to his commendation, and that
iidvertiseraents of every kind are strictly excluded from his
Handbooks. Hotel-keepers are also warned against persons
representing themselves as agents for Baedeker's Handbooks.
Abbreviations. Distances.
Com., Kom. = "Norges Communi-
cationer" and "Sveriges Koinmuni-
kationer" respectively (see p. xviii).
E., B., D., S.,L.,A. = room, breakfast,
dinner, supper, light, attendance.
R. also = Route.
Efmts. = refreshments.
c, ca. = circa, about.
Kr., 0. = crowns and 0Te in Norway
and Denmark.
6. = ore, the Swedish form of 0re.
N., S., E., W. = north, northern;
south, southern ; east, eastern ; west,
western.
M. = English mile, unless the con-
trary is stated (see Table opposite
title-page).
S. M. = Norwegian sea-mile.
Kil. = Kilometre (see Table oppo-
site title-page).
Ft. = English feet.
As the metric system has been adopted in both Norway and Sweden,
the Distances are usually given in kilometres, though the old reckoning
by miles is still common in some parts of Norway, one Norwegian mile
(= 7 Engl. M ) being reckoned as 3 hrs.' walking or 2 hrs.' driving. In
Sweden distances are occasionally calculated in 'new' Swedish miles (1 ny
svensk Mil = 10 Kil. = 61/4 Engl. M.); the old Swedish mile is about
1/2 Engl. M. longer. On railway -routes the distances are generally reckoned
from the starting-point, while on highroads the distances from station to
station are given as more convenient.
On the steamboat-rontes the distances are given approximately in Nor-
wegian sea-miles (S. M.) or nautical miles. A Norwegian nautical mile is
equal to four English knots ornautical miles (about 4Vs Engl, statute M.),
and the steamers are usually timed to travel from 2 to 2'/2 Norwegian
nautical miles per hour. The ordinary tariff is 40 0. per nautical mile,
but no charge is made for deviations from the vessel's direct course.
Asterisks (*) are used as marks of commendation. The letter d, with
a date, after the name of a person , indicates the year of his death. The
number of feet given after the name of a place show."? its height above
the sea-level.
CONTENTS.
Introduction.
Page
I. Expenses. Money. Language. Passports. Post Office xi
II. Steamboat Lines between Great Britain and Norway,
Sweden, and Denmark. Yachting Cruises. Tourist
Agents xii
HI. Season and Plan of Tour xiv
IV. Conveyances. Walking Tours. Cycling Tours . . . xviii
V. Luggage. Equipment. Tourist Clubs xxiv
VL Hotels and Inns xxv
VII. Sport xxvii
Vlll. Maps. Books xxix
IX. Names and their Meanings xxx
X. On the Physical Geography of Scandinavia .... xxxii
Situation, (geological Formatiim. Coast Line xxxii
Mountains, Lakes, and Rivers xxxvii
Climate and Vegetation xxxix
Animal Kingdom xlii
Population xliii
XI. History of Sweden and Norway xliv
Outlines of Norwegian (Danisb) and Swedish Grammars,
at the end of the volume.
Norway.
SoUTllEKN AND EaSTKUN NoRWAY, AS FAll AS TllONJJHJBM.
Koutc
1. Christiansand and the Saetcrsdal 2
From Christiansand to Cliristiania 6
'2. Cdiristiania and I'lnvirons
3. From Christiania to the Handsfjord via Draninien and
Haujisiind '22
4. From (Christiania) Haugsund to the Hardanger Fjord via
KoiiKsbcrg and the Kjukanfos 27
5. From Christiania to the Hardanger Fjord via Skien, the
Telemarken Canal, and the Haukelifjeld 33
6. From Kongsberg to the Hardanger Fjord through the
Nuniedal 42
7. From Christiania through the Hallingdal to Laerdalseren
on the Sognefjord (Bergen) 44
8. From Christiania through the Valders to Laerdalscrcn on
the Sognefjord 50
9. From Christiania through the Gndbrandsdal to Stryn on
the Nordfjord, Marok on the Gcirangcr Fjord, or Aandals-
na;8 on the Komsdals Fjord t'O
viii CONTENTS.
Route Page
10. From Doniaas in tlie Gudbrandsdal over the Dovrei'jeld
to Stt»rcn (Trondhjem) 71
11. From Christiania to Trondhjem by Railway 74
12. From Christiania by Railway to Charlottenberg (and
Stockholm! 78
13. From Christiania to Gotenbiirg by Railway 79
14. From Christiania to Gotcnburg by Sea 84
Western Nokway, as far as Trondhjem.
16. From Christiansand to Stavanger by Sea. The Stavanger
Fjord 89
16. From Sand (Stavanger) by the Suldalsvand to Odde on
the Ha rdanger Fjord 96
17. From Stavanger to Bergen by Sea 99
18. The Hardanger Fjord 101
19. Bergen 115
'20. From Bergen via Vosscvangen to the Hardanger Fjord
or to the Sognetjord 123
21. The Sognefjord 130
22. Jotunheim 146
23. From Bergen to Aalesund and Moldc by Sea 175
24. From the Sognefjord to the Nordfjord 178
26. The Nordfjord. Oldendal, Loendal, Strynsdal 182
26. From the Nordflord to Aalesund and Molde 190
27. Molde and the Moldefiord 204
28. From Molde to Trondhjem 214
29. Trondhjem and its Fjord 219
Northern Norway.
30. From Trondhjem to Bode 233
31. The Lofoten Islands 243
32. From Bod0toTroms0 248
33. From Tromse to the North Cape . . . . 254
34. From the North Cape to Vadse 262
35. Syd-Varanger 266
36. From the Altenfjord to Haparanda in Sweden 267
37. From Hammerfest to Spitzbergen 268
Sweden.
38. Malmo and Southern Skane 272
39. From Malmo to Nassjo (and Stockholm) via Lund . . . 276
40. From Alfvesta to Karlskrona and Kalmar via Vexio. Oland 279
From Oskarshamn to Nassjo 282
41. From (Copenhagen) Helsingborg to Gotenburg .... 283
42. Gotenburg 287
CONTENTS. ix
Kiiute Page
43. Fmni (idtoiiburf; to Vciiersboifi. Lake Vciieni. Weiteni
Ciiita Canal '292
44. From Colenburg to Katriiioluilm ( ami Stockliulm) . . . 290
45. From Niissjo to Jonkiipiiig and Falkiiping 301
40. From Jonkitping to Stockholni by Lake Vettern and the
IDastern GiJta Canal 303
47. From Niissjij to Stockholm 307
48. From (Christiania and) Charlottcnbcrg to Laxa (and
Stockholm) 312
49. Stockholm 314
50. Environs of Stockholm 347
51. From .Stockholm to Upsala 354
52. The Island of Gotland 3r3l
53. From Stockholm to Vestcras and Orehro 367
54. From Kolback and Valskog to Flen, Nykciping, and Oxelo-
sund 370
55. From Gotenburg to Falun 371
56. From Stockholm to Lake Siljan via Borlange (Falun) . . 375
57. From Upsala via Gefle to Ockelbo (Brackc, Ostersund) . 378
58. From Stockholm via Upsala, Ockelbo, and Bracke to Oster-
sund, Storlien, and Trondhjem 379
59. From Ange to Sundsvall 386
60. From Bispgarden to Sundsvall by the Indals-Elf . . . 387
61. From Briicke to I^ulea 388
62. From Stockholm to Sundsvall and Hernosaud by Sea (Lu-
lea, Haparanda) 391
63. I'rom Hernosaud to SoUeftea via the Angerman-Elf . . 393
64. From Sundsvall and Hernosaud to Lulea by Sea (Hapa-
randa) 395
65. From Lulea to Kvickjock 397
66. From Lulea to GcUivara (Narvik) 400
67. From Lulea to Haparanda by Sea 403
Denmark.
68. Copenhagen and its Environs 405
69. From Copenhagen to Helsinger and Helsingborg .... 433
70. Bornholm 439
71. From Copenhagen to Hamburg, by the Danish Islands
and Sleswick 440
72. From Odense to Svendborg, Langeland, Laaland, Falster,
and Meen 443
73. From Fredericia to Frederikshavn. Jutland 445
74. From Aalborg on the Limfjord to Thistcd and via Viborg
to Langaa 449
Index 451
X PLANS AND MAPS.
Flans and Maps.
C'oMj). (he Key Map at llie End of the Book. — The marks (•, ••, o. oo,
etc.) on the margins of the Special Maps indicate the points tvhere Ihey join
the adjacent Special Maps.
Plans: 1. Aalesund (1:17,500). — 2. Ber^ere (1 : 20,000). — 3. Chriftia7tia
(i : 20,000). — 4. Christiansand (1 ; 30,000). — 5. Copenhagen (1 : 34,000),
6. Copeiihagen. inner town (1 : '-'0,000) — 7. Drammeii (1 : 20,000). — 8. Fredriks-
hald (1:15,000). —9. Gotenburg (1:21,500). — 9a. Slottskog Park, near Goten-
burg (1 : lS,.50O). — 10. Helsingor (1:32,000). — 11. Jonkiiping (i : 50,000). —
12. Lund (1:20,000). — 18. MalmS (1:80,000). - 14. Molde (1:17,500). —
16. Sarpsborg (1:21,100). — 16. Skansen (open-air museum; 1:5370). —
17. Staianger (1 : 15,800). — 18. Stockholm (1 : 15,000). — 19. Trondhjem
(1:50,000). — 20. Upsala (1:20,000). - 21. Wisby (1:15,000).
Maps.. 1. South Norway (1:2,000,000): before the title-page.
2. Environs of Christiania (1:80,0(X)): p. 18.
3. District between ChiHHinnia., KoAgsberg, and Lake Krederen (1 : 500,000) :
p. 22,
4. North relemarken (1:500,000): p. 23.
5. Sovth Telemnrken (1:500,000): p. 34.
6. HallingchiU (tnd V/ilders (1 : 50t),000) : p. 46.
7. Krederen, Ilwu/sfjwd, and Vftlders (1 : 500,000> : p. 50.
8. Southirn Gudbrandsdal (l:500,C00j: p. 62.
9. Northern Gtidbrandsdal, Ottadal (1 : 500,000) : p. 66.
10. Stavanger Fjord (1 : 500,000) : p. 92.
11. Outer Har danger Fjord (1:500.000): p. ICO.
12. Inner Hardanger Fjord (1:500,000): p. 102.
13. Hardanger Vidda (1:500,000): p. 112.
14. Environi of Bergen (1:100,000): p. 116.
15. Vis'rict from Bergen to Voss (1:500,000): p. 124.
16. Central Part of the Sognefjord (1:500,000): p. 130.
17. Inner Sogne.fjord (1 : 500,000) : p. 140.
18. Jolunheim (1 : 500 000) : p. 146.
19. The Horunger (1 : ;00,000) : p. 155.
20. Sendfjord ( 1 : .500,000) : p. 178.
21. Nordfjord and Southern Seindmere (1 : 500,(XMJ) : p 1^:2.
22 Sfrun-Geiranger-Grotlid-Polfos and TafjordJostedal Region
(1:500,000): p. 191).
23. Northern Smidmare and Molde (or RomsdaU) Fjord ( I : .500,000) : p. 204.
24. 25. North-West and North Coast of Norway (1 : 1, -500,000):
1st Sheet: Trondhjeni-Torghatten-Boda-Lofoten: p 232.
2ud Sheet: Tromse-North-Cape-Vadse: p. 248.
2B. Estuary of the Gota-Elf (i:iQO. 000): p. 291.
27. rroWtatta Falls (1:10,000 and 1:25,000): p. 293.
28. The Kinnekulle (1 : 155,000j : p. 297.
29. Ujvrgard near Stockholm (1:25,000): p. 344.
30. Environs of Stockholm (1:100,000), with in.?et-map <pf Djursholm
(1:50,000):" p. 348.
31. The Saltsjo from Molna to Varhohn, to the E. of Stoi-kholm
(1:100,000), with inset-map of Saltsjobaden (1:50,000): p. 3-50.
32. North Sweden (1:2,750,000): p. 3?8.
33. Denmark and Sleswick (1:2,400,000): p. 404.
34. Northern Environs of Copenhagen (1:100,000), with iusel-niaps of
Lyngby-Furese and Hillered-Fredensborg (1: 1.50,000j : p. 434.
35. Shores of the Sound (1:500,000): p. 438.
36. South Sweden (1 : 2,0: 0,000) : after the Index.
37. Key Map of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, showing; the special
Maps of the Handbook; at the end of the book.
Panoramas from the Stugiin0se (p. 57), the Skinegg (p. 162), and the
Moldehei (p. 205).
INTRODUCTION.
I. Expenses. Money. Language. Passports. Post Office.
Expenses. Travelling in Norway and Sweden is less expensive
in some respects than in other parts of Europe, hut the great dis-
tances which require to be traversed by road and rail or by steamboat
necessarily involve a very considerable sum-total. After arrival in
the country, 20-26?. per day ought to cover all outlays, but much
less -will suffice for those who make a prolonged stay at one or more
resting-places, or for pedestrian tourists (p. xxii) in the less fre-
quented districts.
Money. In 1873 and 1875 the currency of the three Scandina-
vian kingdoms was assimilated. The crown (krone; Swed. krona),
worth Is. i^/zd., is divided into 100 ere (Swed. ore; see money
table before the title-page). These coins and the government
banknotes (but not those of local or of private banks) are current
throughout the three countries. British sovereigns, worth 18 kr.
each, usually realise their full value at the principal centres of
commerce, hut the rate of exchange is often a few ere below par.
Large sums are best carried in the form of circular notes or letters
of credit, as issued by the chief British and American banks. The
traveller should be well supplied with small notes and coins (smaa
Penge) before starting on his tour, as it is often difficult in the
remoter districts to get change for gold or larger notes.
Language. English is spoken on board almost all the Nor-
wegian steamboats and at the principal resorts of travellers, both
in Norway and Sweden, but in the country-districts the vernac-
ular alone is understood. Danish, as pronounced in Norway ( which
is analogous to English spoken with a broad Scottish accent), is on
the whole the more useful of the two languages, as most travellers
devote more time to Norway than to Sweden, and as it is easily
understood in Sweden. (See grammars and vocabularies in the
removable cover at the end of the volume.)
Passports are unnecessary, except for the purpose of procuring
delivery of registered letters. — The Custom Hoxise Examination
is invariably lenient. The duty on cigars is 6 kr. per kilogram
(2l/'5lbs.) and that on spirits is 2 kr. 40 e. per litre; but a kilo-
gram of the former or an unsealed bottle of the latter is allowed
to pass duty-free. In the matter of customs Sweden and Norway
treat each other as foreign countries (comp. p. 312).
Post Office. The postage of a letter, weighing 1/2 oz-, is 20 ere
to any country in the Postal Union, and of a post-card (Brefkort, Brev-
kort) 10 0.; that of a letter within Norway or Sweden IO0., within
xii II. STEAMBOAT LINES.
Denmark 8 e. The traveller should avoid giving his correspondents
any poste reslante address other than steamboat or railway stations,
as the communication with places off the heaten track is very slow.
Telegraph Offices are numerous in proportion to the population.
Norwegian Tariff. Within Norway: 50 0. for ten words, and 5 0.
for each word more. — P'orcign telegram.s (minimum 80 0.) : to Sweden
30 0., in addition to which each word i.? charged 10 0.; to Denmark 50 0.,
plus 10 0. for each word; to Great Britain 26 0. per word; to the U.S.A.
1 kr. 35 0. to 2 kr. 5 0. per word.
Swedish Tariff. Within Sweden : 50 o. for ten words, and 5 o, for
each word mure. — Foreign telegrams: to Norway or Denmark 80 ci. for
Jive words, 10 0. each word more; to Great Britain 1 kr. 30 6. for three
word.', 30 (i. each wurd more ; to the U.S.A., about the .same a.s from Norway.
Telephones are very general throughout the country, and are of
importance to the tourist, especially in Norway and the Swedish
Norrland, as they afford a means of securing rooms, etc., in ad-
vance. The usual charge for the use of a telephone is IO0. or a
little more.
II. Steamboat Lines between Great Britain and Norway, Sweden,
and Denmark. Yachting Cruises. Tourist Agents.
Steamboat Lines. The following particulars as to the chief
lines of steamers between British and Scandinavian ports refer to
the summer-arrangements (May to August inclusive) ; but travellers
are recommended in all cases to obtain precise information from
the agents or advertisements of the various steamship-companies.
The fares quoted include the charge for provisions on the voyage
except where it is otherwise stated. The winter-rates are often
considerably lower. — 'Boat-trains' run from London in connection
with the steamers from Hull, Grimsby, Newcastle, and Harwich.
Steamers to Norwat.
To Christiania. (1). From London, 'Wilson Line' every alternate Frid.
in 56 hrs. (fares 5/. 13s., 31. 10«., return 81., 51. iOs.; food Gs. Qd. or 4s. (id.
per day according to class). — (2). From HtiU, 'Wilson Line' every Frid.
in 46hr.s. (fares Al. 15«., 3/. 5s., return 11. 10s., bl.). — (3). From Newcaslle-
on-Tyne. S.S. 'Sterling' and 'Prospero', every Frid. in about 52 hrs. (32. 3«.,
return 5/. 5s.).
To Christiansand. Nearly all of the above-mentioned steamers (fare.?
as to Christiania); duration of voyage from Hull 32 hrs., from London
44 bi-s. Also: from Leilh , 'Leith, Hull, and Hamburg Co.' every Thurs.
in 34 hrs. (3l. 3s.; return bl. bs.); returning on Friday.
To Bergen. (1) From Hull, 'Wilson Line' every Tues. in 36 hrs. (il.
10s., 31., return 11., il. iOs.), returning on Saturday. — (2). From Newcastle,
'Bergenske and Nordenfjeldske Cos.' every Tues., Thurs., & Sat. in 31-40 hrs.
(1st cl. il., return 81.). — These steamers, except the Tues. boat from
Newcastle, touch at Stavanger (same fares).
To Trondhjem. (1). From Hull, 'Wilson Line' every Thurs. in
65 hrs. (6;. K's., il. is., return 9Z. 15s., Gl.Gs), returning the following
Thursday. — (2). From I/'ewcasfle, 'Bergenske and Nordenfjeldske Cos.' every
Tues., via Bergen (see above; through-fare 61. IOs., retxirn dl. lbs.).
Steamers to Sweden.
To Gotenburg. (1). From London (Tilbury), 'Thule Line' every Frid.
(returning every Thurs.) in 40-45 hrs. {31. 3s., 2l. 2s. ; food 6«. 6d. or is. 6d.
II. STEAMBOAT LINES. xlii
per day); return-tickets (bl. 5i., 3l. 'is.) are available also via Granton (see
below) or by the 'VVilsun Line' via Hull. -- ('2). J-'rom Hull, 'Wilsun Line"
evei-y Sat. (roturiiin;; every Frid.) in 36-10 hrs. (fares Al., '21. lbs.; return-
fares 7/., 4/. 6s.). — (3). From Orimsby, 'Wilson Line' every Wed. (returning
tUe following Wed.) in 40 hrs. (same fares). — (4). From Grunion (Edin-
burgh), 'Thule Line' every Frid. (same fares).
To Kalmb. From Grimsby, 'Wilson Line' everv Tues., I'eturning every
Thurs., in about 60 hrs. (2;. 15s.. U. 10». ; first-class return il. 10*.).
To Stockholm. From London, 'Wilson Line' every Sat. ; also 'Stock-
holm Steamship Co.'. via ilalmii, about every ten days.
Steamers to Denmauk.
To Copenhagen. (1). From London, 'Bailey and Leetham Line' every
Sun. in about 3 days (2l. Ws., il. 10s. ; meals 5-6«. per day). — (2). From
Null, Wilson Line' every 3Ion. or Frid. in 60 hrs. (1st cl. 21. Ws., excl.
food; 2nd cl. il. ."«.. incl. food); 'Finland Steamship Co.', every Wed.,
toiiihiug at Helsiugfors, and everv alternate Sat , touching at Abo (fares
21. U)s.. il. iOs.; return-ticket SI. 15«., 21. 5s ; food 5-6«. per day). — (3). From
Leith, James Currie ii Co.', via Chri.stianaand , every Thurs., in 51 hrs.
(3/. Zs., il. lis. 6rf. ; 1st cl. return-ticket bl. 5s.); returning every Thursday.
To Esbjerg. (1). From iTrtrunc/;, 'United S.S. Co. of Copenhagen' every
3Ion., Thurs., & Sat. (returning Tues., Wed., & Sat.) in 25 hra. (U. 10s.,
15*., 1st cl. return -ticket 2;. 5s.; food 5s. per day in the ist cl., and
2s. per day in the 2nd cl.). — (2). B'rom Grimsbij , 'United S.S. Co. of
Copenhagen' (in connection with 'Great Central Railway') every Mon. and
Thurs. (returning every Tue.s. and Frid.) in 33 hrs. (1/. 10s., los. ; return-
ticket 21. OS , il. 10s. ; food extra).
The majority of travellers to Norway will probably flml the ex-
cellent steamers of the ' Wilson Line' ( Thos. Wilson, Sons, 4' Co., Hull)
or of the 'Bergenske and Nordenfjeldske Cos.' {P. H. Mattldessen cj- Co.,
25 Queen St., Newcastle; Messrs. Bery-Hansen if- Co., Christiania)
the most convenient. The last-named company (or, rather, combined
companies) also maintains an excelU'iit service between Norway and
Hamburg, for which return-tickets from Newcastle are abo available.
Esbjerg (p. 449) has direct railway-connection with Copenhagen
and with Gotenburg via Frcdericia andFrederikshavn (R. 73). The
(ierman mail-steamers plying twice daily in each direction between
Kiel and Korsor (p. 441) in 5 hrs. (fares 11 ..// 30, 4 .7/ 50 pf. )
and between Wurnemunde and Gjedser (p. 441) in 2 hrs. may also
bo mentioned.
Yachting Cruises. Large and comfortable excursion-steamers
are despatched at frequent intervals duriim the season from British
ports to the Norwegian tjords, Bergen, Troudhjem , the North
Cape, etc. The vessels (1000-4000 tons ) are lu.xuriously fitted up
for the comfort and amusement of their passengers, and follow a
fixed itinerary at an inclusive charge, full details of which may be
obtained from the various agents. These so-called yachts undonbt-
edly offer the most comfortable means of visiting some of the finest
districts of Norway. They penetrate into the chief fjords, and tho
passengers have opportunities from time to time of making ex-
cursions on land. But this method of visiting Norway inevitably
misses many of the peculiar beauties of the country. A prolonged
residence on board one of these floating hotels is apt to prove mono-
xi^ III. SEASON AND PLAN OF TOUR.
tonous and enervating, and is certain to leave the passenger's mind
almost a blank \vith regard to the true charms of Norwegian travel.
The complaint sometimes heard, that even the grandest scenery In
Norway is somewhat monotonous, is rarely made by any but tourists
on these pleasnre-steamers who have not had time to become prop-
erly acquainted with the country.
Tourist Agents. The tourist-offices of Messrs. T. Cook ^ Son,
Messrs. Henry Gaze <S- Sons, and Dr. Lunn, in London, and those
of T. Bennett ^' Sons and of F. Beyer, at Christiania and Bergen,
issue railway , steamboat, Skyds (or posting) , and hotel coupons
for a number of different routes. Those unused are received back
under deduction of 10 per cent of their cost. This system saves
trouble at a corresponding sacrifice of independence. As a general
rule it is advisable not to fix one's route absolutely before leaving
London, but to wait until Christiania or Bergen is reached. 'The
Norway Tourist's "Weekly News', which often contains information
of considerable importance to tourists , is published by Beyer at
Bergen, and is to be seen at many hotels.
III. Season and Plan of Tour.
Season. The best season for travelling, both in Norway and
Sweden, is from the beginning of June to the middle of September;
but July and August are the best months for the higher mountains,
where snow is apt to fall both earlier and later. For a voyage to the
North Cape (RR. 30-34), for the sake of seeing the midnight sun,
the season is from the middle of June to the end of July. August
is often a rainy month in the eastern districts of Norway, while
the wet season sets in later on the west coast.
Plan of Tour. An energetic traveller may see the chief points
of interest in Norway and Sweden in 21/2-3 months, but an ex-
haustive tour cannot be accomplished in one season.
Those who have devoted a first visit to obtaining a general idea
of the country, may well spend one or more subsequent seasons in
the exploration of particular districts. The less time and energy
spent in covering long distances between point and point, the greater
will be the enjoyment of the districts visited.
It need hardly be added that travellers who are addicted to
luxurious hotels and the distractions of watering-places and other
fashionable resorts will not find Norway to their taste. On the other
hand, true lovers of nature will carry away with them an enthusiastic
admiration for its scenery, and will gladly seek opportunities of
renewing their impressions.
Tourists who content themselves with a Yachting Cruise along
the coast have, of course, their travelling-plan determined by the
programme of the steamer. Most travellers, however, will find it much
more satisfactory to form plans for independent tours for themselves,
and we therefore give a few specimens below, which may easily be
III. PLAN OP TOUR. XV
altered with the help of the Handbook or extended by the inclusion of
excursions from the main track, etc.
The finest scenery in Norway lies on the W. coast, the chief
points being the Hardanger Fjord, Sognefjord, Nordfjord, Send-
mere, Molde, and Eomsdal. The Jotunheim, to the E. of the Sogne-
fjord, is recommended to the attention of mountaineers. The voyage
to the Norrland, the ohief attraction of which is the Lofoten Is-
lands, is also very fine. The beautiful town of Christkmia is well
worthy of a visit.
In the S. of Sweden the chief attractions are Stockholm and
the other towns and the gx^&t Canals. Whby, with its mediaeval
ruins, is well worth visiting. The Swedish Norrland is inferior to
the W. coast of Norway in point of grandeur of scenery , but its
beautiful coasts, its lakes and rivers, including the justly famed
Indals-Elf and Angerman-Elf, and its waterfalls, among which are
the largest in Europe, richly repay a visit. OelUvara, with its mid-
night sun and iron-mines, is also very interesting. Not the least
charm of the Norrland journey is its freedom from the usual crowd
of hurried tourists.
I. Round Trip of Ten or Eleven Weeks. DavS
From Hull or Newcastle to Siavaiiger . 2
Fmm Stavanger by steamer on t\iii Huldalsvand (p. 96) aud thence
drive to the Breifond Hotel (p. 97) 2
l>i'ive frtim the Breifonil Hotel -via. Seljestad to Oddi; on the Serfjord 1
[This route may be joined at Odde by travellers from Christiania
via Daltii and Ttlemavken (comp. \>. xvi) 5-15]
Excursions from Odde to the iJt/ar6j-<e and \\\a Skjwggedahfos (\i. 18);
steamer from Odde to Vik i Eidfjoid 2'/-.'
Excursions from Vik to the Verimjsfos and the Simodal (R. 18);
steamer to Snndal on the Maiivangerfjord 2-3
Kxcursion from Sundal 1o the Bimdhusbra: or the Folgefond (K. IS);
steamer to Bergen 1
Bergen (ii. 19) I
I This route may be joined nt Bergen by steamer from Hull or New-
castle in 2 days.]
From Berj;en by rail to Voss ; drive thence to ihe. StalheiniskUv {M. 2^) 1
Drive or walk to Qudvaiigen; steamer across the Sognefjord to Fjwr-
land and Balholm (p. 133) and thence to Vadheim (p. 132) ... 1
ITliose who drive to visit Jutnnheim (It. 22) frimi the Hognetjord may
take the steamer from Oudvangeu to lAirdulstireit, aud thence
proceed to Skjolden (p. 144) where they join the route described
in the opposite directinn on p. I'lS. returning through the Lsei'dal
to the Sognefjord, and going on by steamer from Loerdalseren
to Balholm ". 9-10]
From Vadheim by steamer and carriage via- Ferde (p. 179) to Skei
(p. 180); drive and row to Bed (p. ISl), and thence drive to Sandeiie
and Visihces on the Nordfjord (p. 185) 3
I'.xcursion from Visnses to \\it Oldendal or Loendal (p. 187). Drive viTi
Orollid lo Marok (p. 196) 3
Steamer or rowing-boat from Marok to Uellesyll (p. 195); drive thence
via Fibelstad-lJaugen to Hie on the Norangsfjord (p. 198) ... 1
From 0ie by steamer or rowing-boat to the Jeirundfjord (p. 199); drive
to J0rstenrik; sleamer to Aalesiiiul (p. 202). Or take Un-. steamer
direct from Jl^ie to Aulesiind I
xvi III. PLAN OF TOUR.
Days
Aulesiind and thence by steamer to MoUle (p. 204) . 1
Excursions I'rciiii Mulde to the Iloinsdal {[>. 203) and the EikisJul (p. 2L3).
Steamer vi;V i'lirutianasund to Trondhjem A
[Or, after an excursion to the Eikiadal, proceed from Molde via Aan-
daUtiws through the Romsdal and the Gudbrandsdal (11. 27) to Doin-
aas, and tlience over the Dovrtfjeld to Steven (p. 72) C]
From Trondhjem to tiie ^orlh Cape and back (RR. 30, 32, 33) ._ . . 8-14
Railway from Trondhjem via Ostersund (R. 58) and Upsala (K. 58) to
Stockholm 3-4
Stockholm and its environs 4
From Stockholm via the OOta Canal and Lake Vettern to JSnkiijiiny
(R. 46) 2
Railway from Jonkoping via Lund and MalmS to Copenhagen (RR.
45, 39) 2
Copenhagen and HeUinger (RR. 68, 69) 3
Return to London^ Hull, Harwich., or Leith (comp. pp. xii, xiii) . l*/2-3
[Or from Stockholm by the GSla Canal to Gotenhurg 2
Steamer from Gotenburg to England (p. xii) !'/•-']
II. Three or Four Weeks (Five or Six Weeks including the Voyage to the
North Cape or a Trip through Sweden).
Christiania and its neighbourhood (R. 2) 1
From Christiania by railway to Skien via Dfammen (R. 5) . . . . 1
From Skien through Telemarken to Odde on the Hardanger Fjord (R. 18) 4-5
[This route may be joined here by travellers from Stavanger viil
the Suldalsvand, the Breifond Hotel, and Seljestad (comp. p. xv) 3]
The Hardanger Fjord: Odde (p. 108); Vik i Eidfjord (p. Ill); Sundal
on the Mauranger Fjord (p. 103); to Bergen bv steamer (R. 19) . 5
Bergen (R. 19) .' 1
From Bergen by railway to Tom, and thence drive to Stalheimsklev
(p. 128) 1
Walk to Gudvangen (p. 138) ; thence by steamer across the Soynefjord
to Balholtn and FJcerland (p. 134), and thence tu Vadheim (p. 132) 3
From Vadheim drive via Ferde to Sandene on the Nordfjord (p. 184) 2
Excursions on the Nordfjord and its side-valleys (R. 25); jiroceed
through the Strynsdal via GrotUd to Marok (R. 2b) 3
From Marok by steamer to Hellesyll (p. 195), drive through the No-
rangsdal to j0ie (p. 198) on the Norangsfjord, and by steamer over
the Jerundfjord to AaXesund (R. 26) and thence to Molde ... 1-2
Molde, the Molde-Fjord, and the Romsdal (R. 27) 3
From Molde to Trondhjem. Trondhjem (p. 219) i^j-i-'i
From Trondhjem we may either return by steamer to England (p. xii).
or proceed farther to the N. to visit the Norrland (RR. 30-34), or return
by railway to Christiania, or take a trip through Sweden as indicated on
p. xvii.
III. Four or Five Weeks in Norway, including the Voyage to the
North Gape.
Steamer from Hull or Newcastle to Stavanger 2
Stavanger to Odde and the Hardanger Fjord 5
From Bergen to Trondhjem via Molde, as indicated at pp. xv, xvi 10-12
Steamer to the North Cape and back 8-14
Railway from Trondhjem to Christiania 1
Steamer to England 2
IV. Four or Five Weeks in Norway.
Steamer from London, Hull, or Newcastle to Christiania 2
Christiania and railway to Skien (R. 5) 1
Through Telemarken, as indicated above 3-4
Excursions on the Hardanger Fjord from Odde and Vik (pp. 108, 111) 3-4
From Eide (p. 106) via .Vossevangen to the Stalheimsklev (p. 128) . . 1
III. PLAN OF TOUR. xvii
Dasy
The Sognefjord (R. 21), Nwrefjord, FjwrUinJs- Fjord, and liy stpainer
to Vad'htim (p. 132) ii-4
Via Sandene on the, Noi-d/Jord, fStniii, Oroltid, MaroK\ and SJelivll (R. 20")
to Molde ' G-8
Molde; the Homsdal 2-3
Steamer from Bergen to England (p. xii) 2
V. Four or Five Weeks in Norway for Walkers.
Steamer from London, etc., to Christiansand 2
Through the SwtersdcU to Dalen in Telemarken (comp. p. 5 ; the third
day's walk is long) 3
Drive via the Haukelifjeld to Reldal, the Breifond Hotel, and Selje-
siad; walk and drive to Odde (pp. 97, 98). Excursions from OdJe 4
Steamer to V'j* i Eidfjord (p. 111). Excursions to the Verinyfos and
via Fosli to the Simodal 2
Steamer to Ulcik (p. 114); walk or drive to Eide (p. lOj) .... 1
Steamer to Bergen (R. 19) and stay at Bergen 2
Railway to Vossevangen ; drive to Siallieim (R. 20) 1
Walk to Gudvangen (p. 138); steamer to Balhulm (p. 133) and Fja'r-
laiid (p. 134) 1
Walk via the Jostedalthrx to Jehter (p. 18t)); row to Skei (p. 177);
drive ou the following afternoon to Aamot (p. 178) 2
Walk via (he Oldenskar (p. 181) to the Oldenvand; steamer across the
lake; walk or drive to Olden (p. 185) 1
Steamer to Visiiws (p. 185); drive to Mindre Snnde ; steam-launch or
rowing-boat to Hjelle (p. 189) t
Drive to Skaare (p. 190); walk via the Orasdalsskar to the DJupvas-
hytte (p. 192); walk or drive to Marok (p. 196) 1
Steamer to Hellesylt (p. 195); drive to Fibelstad-flaugen ; walk to ^ie
(p. 198) 1
Steamer via Aulesund to Molde; Molde (p. 204) IV*
Excursion to the Romsdal (p. 208); walk across the mountains to the
Eikisdal (p. 210); visit the Eikisdulsvand (p. 213) and walk to N0ste
(p. 212) 3
Steamer to Molde. In the afternoon visit Baltenfjordseren (p. 21G) ;
steamer via C/tristianssund to Trondhjem 2
[Or from N»Jste proceed via Eidsvaag to Eidseren (p. 217), take the
Sundal steamer to Chrisiianssnnd , and go on next day to
Trondhjem 2]
Trondhjem (R. 29) 1
Return thence as indicated on p. xvi.
VI. A Fortnight from Christiania.
Steamer to Christiania (p. 9). Christiania 3
Railway to Dokka (p. 53); drive through the Valders Ipp. 54-60) to
Lwrdalseren tp. 141) 4
Steamer to Gudvangen (R. 21); walk or drive to Htulheim (p. 1281;
drive to Voss (p. 125); railway to Bergen (R. 19). Ba-gen ... 3
Steamer to Odde on the Hardanger Kjord (R. 18) 1
Drive via Seljeslad to the Breifond IJotel (p. 97) and Nws on the
Suldalsvand; steamer to Osen ; drive to Sand; steamer to Sla-
vanger 2
Steamer from Stavanger to England (p. xii) 2
VII. Seven Weeks in Sweden.
Steamer from England (p. xii) to Clotenhurg • • 2
Oolenburi/, and railway to TroUhiittan (R. 43) 2
Steamer on Lake Venern to the Kinnekulle (R. 43l; railway via Ful-
kiiping to JiJnkdping (R. 45). JiinkOping 3
Steamer un Lake Veltern to Motala and up the OSta Canal to Stock-
holm (R. 46) 2
Bakukkkk's Is'orway and Sweden. 8th Edit. b
xviii IV. CONVEYANCES.
Days
Slockhnlm and its environs (RR. 49, 50) 4
Excursidn to Falun -jliiA Late Siljan, returning via Vpsala (liR. 5G, bl) T)
Steamer from StockLohn to Haparanda (RR. G2, 64) 3
Steamer bacli to Lule& ; railway to (lellivava (RR. 64, 66) 3
Railway bacli to Murjek (p. 401) ; drive via Sto-backen to Jnckmock
(R. G5) ii/2
Row and walk to Kvickjock and back (R. 65) 4-6
Drive and row frOm .lockmock to Edefors 1
Earlv steamer to Hednoret ([k 390); railwav t i Vdnnds (p. 3^0) and
Ume& (p. 395) ". 1
Steamer to Hernosand (K. 62 and p. 392) 1
.Steamer up the Anyerman-Elf \o BolUftea (p. 394); railwav to Bisp-
garden (p. 388) " . . . . 1
Steamer down the Indah-Elf to ftwtdsvall (R. 60) 1
Railway to Ostej-sund (RR. 59, 58) . . • „ 1
Railway (R. 5S) to Are (excursion to the Areskutan) and Dufed (ex-
cursion to the Tiinnfors), and back to Stockholm 4
Steamer to Ootland (Wishy) and back to Knlmar (p. 2S1); railway via
Vexio (p. 2fc'0j and fmnd (p. 276) to Malmii 3
IV. Conveyances. Walking Tours. Cycling Tours.
Tjme Tables for Korway appear in '•Noryes Communicntioner' (pron.
Commoonicashoner; 30 0., English and German edition, 50 0.), and for
Sweden in '■Sveriges Kommunikationer' (10 o.), both published weekly in
summer. Neither of these, however, is very satisfactory; and travellers in
Norway are recommended to obtain Beyer's Tourists' Time-Tables (published
fortnightly ; 50 0.) or the similar publication issued by Bennett ([>. ll), both of
which may usually be purchased of the tourist agents (p. xiv) in London.
For Sweden the TagtidtahMen (25 6.) are useful. The 'Sommerruter' of
the various fjord steamboat lines may be obtained at Stavanger, Bergen,
Aalesund, and Christianssund. Among other time-tables may be mentioned
the i?eic/»s-A'«rs6«cft (Berlin) and the Reiieliste for Kongeriget Danmark {Co-
penhagen), which travellers to or from Germany will find useful.
Observe that many of the summer time-tables, especially those of the
fjord-steamers, hold good till the end of August only.
Steamboats {l^oiw. Bampskibe , Sw. An(jhatar\ The regul' r
Norwegian coasting traffic is almost entirely in the Lands of the
Bergenske and the Nordenfjeldske DampskibS'SeLskab, which have
a common tlme-tahle. The headquarters of the former are at Bergen,
those of the latter at Trondhjem. (Agents at Christiatiia and New-
castle, see p. xiv. ) The smaller steamers plying on the Norwegian
fjords are comfortable enotigh dining the day, but their sleeping
accommodation is poor, and on market-days they are apt to be over-
crowded. The same remark applies to the smaller coasting steamers
on the Baltic and on the Swedish canals. — It should be noted that
the tjord-steamers sometimes leave intermediate stations Y2 I'r.
before their advertised hour.
Most travellers will, of course, travel in the first cabin. Those
who are about to spend one or more nights on board should at
once secure their berths (kojen) in a stateroom (Norw. lugar, Swed.
hytt) by personal application to the steward. Otherwise they may
have to put up with sofas in the dining-saloon, with the additional
disadvantage of having to quit their couches before early breakfast
((3 or 7 a.m.). There are always a separate ladies' cabin and a smok-
IV. CONVEYANCES. xix
ing-room. A passenger travelling with his family by mail-steamer
(and some others) in Norway pays full fare for himself, but is usually
entitled to a reduction ('Moderation'; pron. 'moderashon') of
50 per cent on the fare (but not on the cost of food) for each of the
other members of the party. In Sweden members of the Tourists'
Union (p. xxv) often obtain considerable reductions frafiaif J on the
ordinary fare. Keturn-tickets are usually valid for a month or more,
but do not permit the journey to be broken. When tickets are taken
on board the steamer (usual at small stations) a small booking-fee
is common. The captains and mates generally speak English. The
traveller should be careful to look after his own luggage.
The food is generally good and abundant, though a little mono-
tonous. Vegetables are rare, and tinned meats, salt relishes, and
cheese always preponderate at breakfast and supper. The tariff in
the Bergen and Nordenfjeld steamers is as follows: — food per
day, including service, 5 kr. 60 0.; or, separately, the charge for
breakfast is 1 kr. 50e., for dinner (at 2) 2kr. 60 0., supper (at 7.30)
Ikr. 5O0. ; attendance 30 0. On board the smaller vessels: breakfast
or supper 11/.2, D. 2, attendance */2 kr. Gup of tea or coffee with
biscuit or rusk (Kavrinyer; Swed. Skorpor), in the morning 30-350.;
small cup of coffee after dinner 20 0.; beer 50-60 0. per bottle,
25 0. per half-bottle ; claret 1 1/4 kr. per half-bottle. No spirits
are procurable. The account should be paid daily, to prevent mis-
takes. The steward expects a fee proportioned to the length of the
voyage and the services rendered. — On board the ferry-boats across
the Great Belt, the Sound, etc., there is usually a table with cold
meats, etc. (koldt Bord), from which the traveller may help himself
(1-1 V2 I'^r.); small bottle of beer, 25 0.
Railways (Norw. Jembaner, Sw. Jernvdgnr). Most of the rail-
ways are similar to those in other European countries ; but in Nor-
way and Sweden there are several narrow-gauge lines (31/3 ft.),
with two classes only, corresponding to the 2nd and 3rd on the other
lines. The guard is called ^Konduktor. In both countries the rail-
ways observe Central Europe time (1 hr. ahead of Greenwich time).
Luggage (50-70lbs. usually free), except what the passenger takes
into the carriage with him, must be booked. The average speed of
the quick trains (Norw. Hurliytog, Sw. kurlrtng, sndUtuii) is 22-24
Engl. M., that of the mixed trains (hUmdede Tog, blandiide tag)
15-20 Engl. M. per hour. All the trains have smoking-carriages
(liegekupe, rlikkupe) and ladies' compartments (Kvindekupe, dain-
kupe). Return-tickets are usually valid for a month.
On the Swcdisfi State Railways there is a special zone-tarift'for distances
over 300 Kil. to Uio N. of Stockholm: 301 Kil. 2nd class tare 15 kr. 80,
3rd class fare 10 kr. 50 ii. ; 400 Kil. 17 kr. 40, 11 kr. 80 o. ; 500 Kil.
iii kr. 90, 12 kr. CO o. ; 600 Kil. 20 kr. 40, 13 kr. 60 0.; 700 Kil. 21 kr. 90,
14 kr. 60 o. These tickets permit the jovirney to be broken once (but if a
night be spent, notice must be given to the station-master). Stoppages of
the train ;it the official nii,'ht-stations fconip. pp. 379, 388) are not reckoned
as breaks (jn the journey.
b*
XX IV. CONVEYANCES.
The Railway Restaurants in Sweden and at the principal
stations in Norway are generally good and not expensive ; but those
on the branch-lines are often poor. Passengers help themselves,
there being little or no attendance. For breakfast or supper the
usual charge is i^/i-i^/o, for dinner 1 V2"2V2 ^''- 5 *or a cup of coffee
or half- bottle of beer lb ei. (frequently included in the charge
for dinner); sandwiches 25-50 0.; spirits not obtainable. The
express-trains stop at certain stations, the names of which are posted
up in the carriages, to allow time (generally only 1/4 hr.) for meals.
Posting (Norw. Skyds, Sw. Skjuts; pronounced shoss or shiiss
in each case). Sweden is so well provided with railways and
steamboats that travelling by road is rare except in the Norrland
(RR. 65, 66), but in Norway there are still immense tracts of country
where driving is the only means of communication. The new high-
roads, maintained by government, are generally good, and the older
roads are being improved; but some of the latter are very rougi(,
with sudden ups and downs, reminding one of a switchback railway.
The Sky dsstalioner {-pron. stasho ner; which are inns also, see
p. xxvi) , or farm-houses whose proprietors are bound to supply
travellers with horses whenever required, are situated at intervals
of 6-15 Engl. M. If the stage is a short one and the horse good,
the traveller may often drive on to the next station on getting leave
from the station-master.
Those 'stations' where the ^YO^rietor (8 lalion-s- Holder or Skyds-
Skaffer) is bound to have several horses always in readiness, and
is liable to a tine if he keeps the traveller waiting for more than
'/4-I/2 111'-) are called Faste Stationer {i. e. 'fixed stations', where
a 'fixed' number of horses are in readiness), or usually by English
travellers 'fast stations'. Another class of stations, now rare, except
in little frequented districts, is the TUslgelse-Stationer (oy Skifter),
the owners of which are bound to procure horses on getting notice
or 'Tilsigelse' (from tilsige, 'to tell to', 'send to'). At these stations,
justly called 'slow' by English travellers byway of antithesis to the
'fast', the charges are very low, but the traveller may often be kept
waiting for hours. These delays are obviated by sending Forbud
('previoiis message') to stations ot this class, and the same remark
applies to 'slow' boat-stations. The 'Forbud' must arrive at least
three hours before the time at which horses are required, or better
on the previous day, and should therefore be dispatched two or
three days beforehand. It is usually sent by letter or post-card, or
by any one preceding the traveller on the same route t. Travellers
t The Forbiidseddel, or message, may be expressed as follows: —
Paa Skydsskiftet {. . . name the station) bestilUs en Uest (to Besle, etc.)
med Kariul (Karioler) eller Stolkjcerre (Stolkjoerrtr) Mandagen den 20. Juli,
Formiddac/en (E/tevmiddagen) Klokken el (tu, tre, etc.). Paa summe Tid varin
Frokost (or Middagsmad) for en Person (to, (re Personer).
Date & Place. Signature.
Tariff for Posting ('Land-Skyds') in Norway.
1
II. From Slow Stations
I. From Fast Stationa.
{plu* 20 0. per horse for'Tilsigelse';
comp. p, xx).
-
For one
person
Two pers.
For one person
Two pers.
One horse 1
One horse
One horse
One horse
One horse
One horse
1
[plvs 1 0.
with
with
[plut 1 0.
with
with
§
per Kil.
for the
cariole
or
stol-
per Kil.
for the
cariole
or
stol-
saddle)
stolk.isprre
kjeerre
saddle)
stolk.iserre
kjserre
_
Kt.0.
Kr. 0.
Kt.0.
Kr.0.
Kr. 0.
Kr. 0.
I
O.I5
0.17
0.26
O.IO
0.12
0.18
2
0.30
0-34
0.51
0.20
0.24
0.36
3
0.45
0.51
0.77
0.30
0.36
0.54
4
0.60
0.68
1.02
0.40
0.48
0.72
5
0.75
0.85
1.28
0.50
0.60
0.90
6
0.90
I .02
1-53
0.60
0.72
1.08
7
1.05
I. 19
1.79
0.70
0.84
1.26
8
1.20
1.36
2.04
0.80
0.96
1.44
9
1-35
1-53
2.30
0.90
1.08
1.62
lO
1.50
1.70
2-55
1. 00
1.20
X.80
II
1.65
1.87
2.81
I. 10
1.32
1.98
12
1.80
2.04
3.06
1.20
1.44
2.16
13
1-95
2.21
3.32
1.30
1.56
2.34
14
2.10
2.38
3-57
1.40
1.68
2.52
15
2.25
2.55
3.83
1.50
1.80
2.70
i6
2.40
2.72
4.08
1.60
1.92
2.88
17
2.55
2.89
4-34
I .70
2.04
3.06
i8
2.70
3.06
4-59
1.80
2.16
3-24
19
2.85
3-23
4.85
1.90
2.28
3-42
20
3.00
3 40
5-IO
2.00
2.40
3.60
21
3-iS
3-57
5.36
2. 10
2.52
3.78
22
-3-30
3-74
5.61
2.20
2.64
3-96
23
3-45
3-91
5.87
2.30
2.76
4.14
24
3.60
4.08
6.12
2.40
2.88
4-32
25
3.75
4.25
6.38
2.50
3.00
4.50
Tariff for Boats ('Baad-Skyds') in Norway.
1
II. From Slow Stations
I. From Fast Stations. |
{plus 7 0. per rower and 6 0. per
boat for 'Tilsigelse).
u
-01
1
5
2 men
with
4-oared
boat
and sail
3 men
with
6-oared
, boat
and sail
4 men
with
8-oared
boat
and sail
2 men
with
4-oared
boat
and sail
3 men
with
Soared
boat
and sail
4 men
with
8-oared
boat
and sail
Kr. 0.
Kr. 0.
Kt.0.
Kr.0.
Kt.0.
Kt.0.
I
0.28
0.40
0.56
0.24
0.34
0.48
2
0.56
0.80
1. 12
0.48
0.68
0.96
3
0.84
I .20
1.80
0.72
1.02
1.44
4
1. 12
1.60
2.24
0.96
1.36
I .92
5
1.40
2.00
2.80
1.20
1.70
2.40
6
1.68
2.40
3-36
1.44
2.04
2.88
7
1.96
2.80
3 92
1.68
2.38
3-36
8
2.24
3.20
4.48
1.92
2.72
3.84
9
2.52
3.60
5 -04
2. 16
3.06
4.32
lO
2.80
4.00
5.60
2.40
3 -40
4.80
II
3.08
4.40
6.16
2.64
3-74
5.28
12
3-36
4.80
6.72
2.88
4.08
5-76
13
3-64
5.20
7.28
3.12
4.42
6.24
»4
3-92
5.60
7.84
3.36
4.76
6.72
15
4.20
6.00
8 40
3.60
5-IO
7.20
16
4.48
6.40
8.96
3-84
5«44
7.68
17
4.76
6.80
9-52
4.08
5.78
8.16
iS
5.04
7.20
10.08
4.32
6.12
8.64
19
S.32
7.60
10.64
4-56
6.46
9.12
20
5.60
8.00
11.20
4.80
6.80
9.60
21
5.88
8.40
11.76
5 -04
7-14
10.08
22
6.16
8.80
12.32
5.28
7.48
10.56
23
6.44
9.20
12.88
5-52
7.82
11.04
24
6.72
9.60
13-44
5.76
8.16
II .52
25
7.00
10.00
14.00
6.00
8.50
12.00
IV. CONVEYANCES. xxi
pressed for time may also with advantage send 'Forbud' to 'fast'
stations. — Those who wish to make an early start should invariably
order the skyds the previous day ; in country-inns the OpvoHningspUit
(p. xxvi) will take the order. But breakfast is not usually to be
had before about 8 a.m. Delay on the journey may be avoided by
informing the 'Gut' before arriving at a station that the traveller
intends to proceed at once ( ^jeg vil strax reise videre). — Every
station-master is bound to keep a Daghog (Skydsbog) or day-book,
in which the traveller enters his orders and records his complaints if
he has any to make. Travellers are entitled to proceed in the order
in which tlieir names are entered in this book.
The ordinary vehicles supplied at the skyds-stations are the
Stolkjcerre (a light cart with seats for two persons), and the lighter
and swifter Knriol (a light gig for one person). The latter is now
rarely used on the main routes. Some stolkjserres have an extra
seat for the driver and are therefore to be preferred, as otherwise
the Skydsgut (or simply Gut; the girl who sometimes takes his
place is called Jente) takes his seat on the top of the luggage which
is strapped or roped at the back of the vehicle. If the traveller
takes the reins (Temmer) himself, he will be responsible for any
accident; as the reins are usually only of rope and the rest of the
harness frequently far from strong, it is perhaps safer to allow the
'Gut' to drive from behind. For very bulky or heavy luggage
additional vehicles must be engaged.
As a rule about 8-9 Kil. (5-51 '2 Engl. M.), or less in hilly districts,
may be covered in an hour. It is difficult to calculate very closely
the time likely to be occupied by skyds-journeys, but an attempt to
do so has been made in the account of some of our routes, and the
Editor hopes, with the courteous assistance of travellers, to be able to
extend the system to all the main routes. Speaking generally, about
70-FO Kil. (40-50 p]ngl. M.) may be accomplished in a day, but
journeys of that length are, of course, fatiguing. The long strings of
vehicles that are frequently seen converging upon the more frequented
spots and favourite hotels, especially towards evening, should be
avoided on account of the dust. For a similar reason it is considered
'bad form' for one carriage to overtake another, unless the difference
of pace is very considerable. The horses, or rather ponies, are often
overdriven by foreigners. As the average charge of 1-3d. per Engl,
mile is not a very adequate remuneration to the Skijdspligtige, or
peasants who are bound to supply the horses,' it is unfair on this
account also to overdrive them. A frequent inscription in the skyds
stations is 'Veer god mod hesteri' (i.e. be good to the horse), and
travell'ers who obey this injunction will receive a good character
from the 'Gut' at the successive stations and will in consequence
be more cheerfully and quickly served. In every case the traveller
in Norway will find his account more in politeness and civility than
in anything approaching a dictatorial manner.
xxii IV. WALKING TOURS.
The posting-charge at 'fast' stations is fixed at 17 m. per Kil.
for one pers. { 'eiikelt Skyds') and 26 c. for two pers. ('halvanden
Skyds', i.e. a Skyds and a half): compare the annexed tariff, printed
on yellow paper. On hilly roads and on the new government
highroads the 'Skyds-Skaffer' is frequently authorized to charge for
more than the actual distance between stations. On the first page
of the 'Dagbog' is always entered the fare to the nearest station in
each direction, whether by road or by rowing-boat. Distances under
5 Kilometres (3 M.) are charged at the full 5 Kil. rate. At the slow
stations the station-master is entitled to a fee of 20 0. per horse,
in addition to the I'are, for the trouble of getting it ready. Strictly
speaking the fare may be exacted before the hirer starts, but it is
usually paid at the end of the stage, when the 'Gut' receives a
gratuity of about 1^2 *'• P^'' kilometre. The 'Gaardskarl', or man
who helps to harness the horses, does not expect a fee. Nothing
should be given to the peasant children who sometimes officiously
open gates. At slow stations the station-master may dismiss the
horses if the traveller who has ordered them is more than 21/2 hours
late, and after the first hour of waiting he may exact 'Ventepenge'
or waiting-money (amounting, for 1-21/2 hrs. , to the fare for
3-10 Kil.). Tolls, ferries, and similar dues are paid by the traveller.
On the great thoroughfares through Telemarken (R. 6), the
Valders (R. 8) , and the Gudbrandsdal (R. 9) it is often found
more convenient to hire a carriage (Kaleschvogn or Landau) 01 even
a Slolkjarre and horses for the whole route, in order to avoid delays
at the over-tasked stations. In this case there is no restriction as
to the amount of luggage accompanying the traveller (comp.
p. xxiii). The horses usually rest for V2 l^r- every two hours, in
addition to the midday halt of 2 hrs. Carriages may be obtained on
application at any of the Tourist Offices (p. xiv). — On some of the
long overland routes Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son (p. xlv) have pro-
vided landaus, carioles, and stolkjaerres of a more comfortable de-
scription and better found than the ordinary vehicles of the country.
Rowing Boats. For the conveyance of travellers by boat (Baad-
skyds or Vandskyds) the regulations are similar, but on all the
principal routes steamers now ply. Those who have a guide with
them may employ him as a rower, and thus dispense with one of
the usual crew. Each rower (Rorskarl) generally rows or 'sculls'
with two oars. A boat manned with two rowers is therefore called
a Peering, or four-oared boat, one maimed with three rowers a Sex-
ring , and with four rowers an Ottering. For short distances a
Faring generally suffices. The tariff is determined by the size of
the boat and not by the number of persons. The Tilsigelse fee is
7 0. per man and 6 0. per boat. As the fares are very unremun-
erative, the traveller should add a liberal gratuity.
Walking Tours. Neither Norway nor Sweden is suitable for
long walking excursions, as the distances are too great , and the
IV. CYCLING TOURS. xxiii
points of interest too far apart. A few districts in the Swcfiish
Norrlaud are, however, accessible to pedestrian tourists. In Norway
there is no lack of short excursions which can be made on foot
only. Besides the passes over the mountains to the W. coast from
the Sitlersdal (p. 5), Hallingdal (p. 32), and Telemarken (pp. 50-52),
and the excursions and ascents in Jotunheim { R. 22) and Send-
mere (p. 197), we may mention in this connection the passes, often
very beautiful, connecting the heads of different fjords (comp.
pp. xvii, 105, 107, 146, 149, 199, etc.). Several fine walks may also
be taken in the Norrland (RR. 30, 33). The footpaths are, as might he
expected, far inferior to those among the Alps. On very hilly roads
walking is quicker than driving, in which case a cariole or cart may
advantageously be hired for luggage only. In many cases the only
means of forwarding luggage is offered by the steamers. Application
for farther particulars may be made to the tourist-agents (p. xiv).
Cycling Tours. Both Sweden and Norway afford good opportu-
nities for cycling; and the cyclist, perhaps, enjoys a greater measure
of independence than any other traveller.
All steamship-companies running direct to Xorway and Sweden carry
passengers' cycles from England tree of charge. By the Esbjerg r' ute
from Harwich cycles are booked throiigli at ordinary luggage-rate^, plus
a registration fee of 6s. 5d. per inathine to Malmo or 5s. lUd. to Helsing-
borg. It is not desirable to t ike a crate when the machine is accompanied
by its owner, but the frame should be carefully swathed in some kind of
cloth-covering to protect the enamel and bright parts from the sea-air.
Cyclists entering Sweden are permitted to introduce their cycles free
on making a declaration that the machines are not fur sale but for
personal use only. Cycles entering Norway are subject to a duty of
30 kr. (1/. 13«. 4d.), a deposit of which amount must in the ordinary way
be made by the tourist. Memberj of the Cyclists^ Touring Clu'> f47 Victoria
St., London, S.W.) are exempted from this obligation, the club being
known to the Iforwegian customs-authorities as the 'International Touring
Club for Cyclists'. The Cyclists" Touring Club has also concluded iitree-
ment'i with the Touring Club of Sweden and the Cjcli'ts' Touring Club9
(if Norway and Denmark, whereby members of the English club are entitled
to the benefit of reductions in hotel-tariffs, eta., obtained by those bodies
in their respective countries.
As a rule, the newer road.« in Scandinavi i are excellent. They dry
quickly after rain, but during rain they are apt to become greasy and care
must be taken to guard ag.iinstside slip. They are magnificently engineered,
and the gradients are very easy. Some of the older roads are less to be
recommended to the cyclist owing to their steepness and the looseness of
their surface. Riding after dark on mountain-roads is dangerous, though
it would be well to take a lamp in view of any unforsei n emergency.
The fjord-steamers carry accompanied bicycles free of cost, and the wheel -
mon can further utilise them for .'•ending on his extra luggage, retaining
only enough for immediate requirements. A thoroughly trustworthy brake
is essential, especially in Norway. The wisest plan" is to have a good
strong rim-brake <m the front-wheel and an additional brake on the back-
wheel. It is important to keep erne's machine at all times well under
control, as gates across roads are continually encountered, often at un-
expected turnings, and drivers allow their animals to wander at will, so
thiit one not unfrequently finds the road entirely blocked by a vehic'e
standing across it. Again, the mountain-road.s are narrow and protected
only by stones set at intervals varying from a few inches to several feetj
xxiv V, EQUIPMENT.
sometimes (he gap is quite sufficient to allow a cycle to pass through at
full length.
Perhaps the favourite ride in Norway is that through the frudhrandsdal
and the Romadal — from Christiania train or cycle to Minne, steamer to
Lillehammer, cycle to Veblungsnres. Here steamer may be taken to Molde
and along the coast to Bergen, train to Vosscvangen, cycle to Gudvangen,
steamer to Lff'rdals0ren, cycle via Iliisum and the liallingdMl to H«(nefos,
and return to Christiania. This route may be varied by branching off at
Domaas and riding over the Dovre Fjeld to Trondhjem or STindals0ren-, or
by branching oil' at Bredevangen and riding via Skeaker to Marok, or to
Hjelle, whence liy steamer and cycle to Visnres.
In Sweden the roads in the neighbourhood of Stockhohn and those in
the extreme south of the country are the most suitable for the cyclist. The
roads vary greatly, but a good cycling map will often enable the rider to
train undesirable portions. The number of possible rides is infinitely
greater in this country than in Norway; among them may be mentioned':
— a. Helsingborg to Stockholm via Jtinkoping, Linkiiping, Norrkoping, and
Nykiiping (642 Kil.). b. Lund to Kavlskrona via Christiaustad and Karls-
hamn (21(5 Kil.). c. Gotenburg to Stockholm via Falkiiping, Laxa, and
Vexio (559 Kil.).
Several of the best routes in Norway, Sweden, and Denmark are de-
scribed in the 'Continental Road Book' of the C. T. C. (vol. iii). Among
the cycling maps published in tlie country mention may be made of that
for S. Norway ('Hjulturistkart over det Sydlige Norge") published by the
Norwegian C.T.C. ('Norsk Hjulturist-Forcning'), the headi|uarters of which
are at Christiania. Maps are al.«o supplied by the Englisli C. T. C.
V. Luggage. Equipment. Tourist Clubs.
Luggage. Travellers who intend travelling by cariolc or stol-
kjffirre should not take more than 30-40 lbs., packed in a small and
strong box and a carpet-bag, to which may be added a wallet or game-
pouch for -walking excursions. A soft or compressible portmanteau
is not recommended, as the 'Skydsgut" usually sits on the luggage
strapped on behind. Suitable leathern trunks are sold at Christiania,
Bergen, and elsewhere for about 20 kr. A supply of stout cord and
straps will be useful, and a strong umbrella is indispensable.
Equipment. The traveller should avoid the common error of
overburdening himself with 'articles de voyage', eatables, or any-
thing not absolutely necessary. On the ordinary routes, and even in
remoter places, tolerable food can almost always be obtained. Tea
and essence of coffee will, however, sometimes be found useful.
Spirits are not to be had at the inns , but good cognac may be
purchased in the larger towns for 4-5 kr. per bottle. A field-glass
(Kikkert), a pocket- corkscrew, and a small clothes-brush will be
found useful. As to clothing, two strong but light tweed suits, a
change of warm underclothing, a pair of light shoes for steamboat
and cariole use, and a pair of extra-strong Alpine boots for moun-
taineering ought to suffice. Add a stout and long ulster, a light
waterproof, and a couple of square yards of strong waterproof ma-
terial, as a wrapper for coats and rugs, or for covering the knees
in wet weather, as the ^'pwns (Skv(ttl(Td€r) of the carioles are often
dilapidated. Visitors to Lapland and the Swedish Norrland sliould
further be provided with veils to keep off the gnats. Ladies travel-
V. TOURIST CLUBS. xiv
ling ill Norway should also dress as simply, strongly, and comfort-
ably as possible, eschewing ornament. For the rougher mountain
tours they should take stout gaiters or leggings.
KuKTHER Hints. An old hand recummemls a few safety-pins to !ic
used in keeping scanty sheets from parting company with the blankets
iir shrinkins into a wisp. — For monntaineering it i3 even more important
than in Switzerland to have very strong boots, waterproof if possible,
ami hiu'h in the ankle, as bogs and water-courses often have to be crossed,
ro the equipment already mentioned may be added sewing -materials, a
few buttons, arnica, glycerine, and a candle or two. — Good alpenstocks
are not to be obtained in Norway; it is a good plan to Ijring a proper
iron spike from home and have it fitted with a shaft in Christiania or
Uergcn. — Plenty of small change is desirable, as already mentioned. —
In the Swedish Norrland a veil for protection against the gnats, (iil(M'jf/ff-
olja) to apply to their Viilcs, and carbolic soap are essential. For tours
beyond the routes mentioned in the Handbook travellers require a tent,
'bandsko', sleeping-sacks, etc. ; apply for information to the Tourists' Union
at Stockholm (pp. 317, 400).
Guides charge 4-6 kr. per day and provide their own food, but a bar-
gain should always be made beforehand.
Tourist Clubs. The Norske TuristforeTiimj ('tourists' union'),
founded in 1866, extends its useful operations throoghoutNorway,
building refuge-huts, improving paths, appointing guides, etc.
There are now '1100 members, about 350 being British. The
subscription is only 4 kr. per annum (life-membership 50 kr.),
for which a copy of the '■Aarhog' will be sent to the subscriber
tlirough any Norwegian address he names. The club-button (Kluh-
knnp), worn as a distinctive badge, costs 80 ». more. The members
are received with marked courtesy in the mountain-regions, and
have a preferential right to accommodation at the club-huts (see
p. 148).
The Svcnska TuristfiWening (Stockholni , p. 317) is a similar
club, founded in 1884 and iiuraborinii nearly 25,000 members. The
annual subscription is 3 kr., wliicli entitles the member to a copy of
the ^Arsskrifl. Tlie club has honorary representatives (Ombud) at
numerous points, who lend all assistance to members, wliile there
are numerous otltc^r advantages attacheil to membcrsliip (comp.
p. xix). .\ circular is sent on request from the clubs offices at
Stockholm, containing much useful information, especially as to
travellitig in the Swedish Norrland.
The yorwegian Club (112 Strand, London, W.C.) is an institution,
on the lines of the Alpine Club, for those interested in Norway (annual
subs. il. is., for country-members \0s. 6rf.) It has a library, arranges
lectures, and publishes a year-book.
VI. Hotels and Inns.
Hotel accommodation in Norway and Sweden has much im-
proved during the last decade. In Nouway there are many hotels
entitled to rank as lirst-class, though perhaps in fitting up and in
cuisine they arc in I'erior to the newer houfes in vSwcdcn. Flxcept in
the iJtincipal towns, Norwegian hotels arc built of wood, many of
xxvi VI. HOTELS AND INNS.
them being admirable examples of the national timber architecture,
though they are apt to be noisy. In view of the inflammable nature of
their material they are furnished with numerous exits. The usual
charges at the first-class hotels are: R. 2-3, B. IV4-IV21 ^- 2-3, S.
11/2 l^r. ; at the second-class houses: R. 80 0.-I kr., B. 1-1 '/4, D.
11/21 S. 1-1 1/4 kr. The humbler inns in the less frequented districts
are even cheaper; so that pedestrians in the regions indicated at
p. xxii may often obtain board and lodging for 31/2-4 kr. per day.
The bedrooms, though plain, are scrupulously clean. Attendance
is not usually charged in the bill ; a fee of 40-50 0. from each
porson (Norw. Drikkepenge) to the servant or Opvarlningspige
(addressed as Freken) suffices. In Norway, as a rule, every Skyds-
Malion is also an inn (affording 'godt Kvarter' or 'slet Kvartcr',
according to circumstances), corresponding to the Swedish gaslyif-
raregard. In Sweden, and still more in Norway, the manners of
the innkeepers are reserved and homely, but there is no lack of
real politeness and attention. On the other hand, as the people
aie rather slow in their movements , travellers intending to make
an early start should make all their arrangements overnight.
In Sweden excellent hotels of the first class are to be found,
not only in Stockholm and Gotenburg, but also in several of the
smaller towns. In these the visitor enjoys a pleasant union of
international comfort with the Swedish national characteristics;
but some of the older houses leave much to be desired. For a room
at the first-class hotels 21/2-5 kr. or more is paid, at the humbler
hotels, from ll/j kr. upwards. The usual gratuities (drickes-
penningar) include 50 6. per day to the servant or SUiderskan
(addressed as Froken) and as much to the Bdrstaren or boots.
In Denmark good hotels are rarely to be found outside the
larger towns and most frequented bathing-resorts; the smaller
hotels are frequently deficient in comfort. The usual charges at
the best hotels are: R. from 21/2 kr., B. 80e.-l kr., D. 2-3 kr.
Tables-d'hote are almost unknown in Sweden. The Smorgasbord
or Branny insbord, where various relishes, bread-and-butter, and
liqueurs are served as stimulants to the appetite, is an institution
peculiar to Sweden, and should be patronised very sparingly. A charge
of 40-50 0. is usually made for it; sometimes, when the Smorgaser
are served on small plates, the charge is 75 6. In the evening, from
7 to 10, small portions of meat, etc., known as Sexor (six o'clock
meal) are served to those who wish a light supper (from 75 0.).
In Norway, on the other hand, tables-d'hote prevail, and it is some-
times difficult to procure anything to eat between the fixed hours ex-
cept tea and bread-and-butter or biscuits. The tinned meats ('Herme-
tiske Sager'), salted anchovies, cheese, etc., which form the staple
of breakfast and supper, should be avoided as much as possible.
The waiter (Norw. Opvarter; i^v/e(\.hiiiare,i-aklin''i''tare,garrrm,
rnarkor) usually receives a gratuity of 10 0. or more for each meal.
VI. HOTELS AND INNS. xxvii
The t'ollowing dishes are among the commonest in the bills of
fare (Norw. Spisesedd, Swed. Matseddel): —
Norwegian
. English.
Swedish.
Norwegian
. English.
Swedish.
Suppe
Soup
Soppa
Aal
Eel
Al
Kjedsuppe
Broth
Buljong
OJedde
Pike
Gfidda
Kjed
Meat
Kott
J0r refer
Trout
Foreller
kogl
boiled
kokt
Torsk
Cod
Torsk
stegt
roasted
stekl
Slid
Herring
.Sill
Oxekjed
Beef
OxklHl
Orensager
Vegetables
Gronsakcr
Kalvesteff
Roast veal
Kalfslek
Benner
Beans
Son or
Koleletler
Cutlets
Kotletter
jErter
Peas
Arter
( Faarestcg
Roast mut
F&rstek
( Poleter
Potatoes
Potatis, Po
\ Bedesteg
ton
\ Karlofler
.. later
Flesk
Pork
Flatk
^g
Eggs
Agg
Raadyvstcg
Roast veni-
Radjuvslek
Pandekagei
Pancakes
Pankakor
son
Ost (short)
Cheese
Ost
Rentdyrsteg
Roast rein
Rensiek
Smer
Butter
Smor
deer
Kager
Cakes
Kakor
Fjwrkrm
Poultry
Fjdderfa
Redvin
Red wine
Rodvin
And
Duck
And
Hvidvin
White wine livid Mn
Gaas
Goose
Oas
til (short)
Beer
01, bier
Fisk
Fish
Fisk
Brut
Lemonade
Brut.
Beer is the usual Scandinavian beverage (Norw. halv Flaske,
Swed. halfhutelj, 20-25 ».), but good claret and other wines arc
generally to be had at the larger inns and on board the steamers.
Spirits are never sold at the hotels or on board the steamers, but
may be purchased at the shops in the towns. Drunkenness, which
used to be a national vice, has been greatly diminished by recent
liquor laws, the principles of which (much the same in both Nor-
way and Sweden) are indicated at p. 288.
The so-called 'Sanatoria, answering to the British hydro-
pathics or the American 'snmmin'- boarding-houses', are well
spoken of for a residence of some little time, but they are not
much frequented by foreigners. They are common in both Norway
and Sweden.
Cafes are almost unknown in Norway, but arc to be found in
the larger Swedish towns. One of their specialties is Swedish
punch, a mixture of rum or arrak with lemon-juice and sugar,
drunk as a liqueur and undiluted (25-40 6. per glass). With ice
in summer it is a palatable, but not very wholesome beverage,
l^cer on draught can be had in the large towns only. — Caf^s and re-
staurants are frequently closed between 5 and 7 p.m. and also on
Sun., from 8.30 a.m. to 1.30 p.m.
Baths in Norway and Sweden are as a rule very primitive. The
bath-houses in the fjords and lakes are for gentlemen only.
VII. Sport.
SroRT of all kinds has fallen off greatly in Norway and Sweden
of late years. Kxc(>Ilent salmon-fishing is indeed still obtainable,
but only at high rents, and the best rivers, such as the Namsen-Iilu
xxviii VI [. SPORT.
above Namsos, are let on long leases, chiefly to woaltliy Englishmen.
Good trout-flshing , however, may still be had by those who are
prepared for some hardships. Many rivers are now leased by hotel
proprietors for the benefit of their guests. Amongst these may be
mentioned the Loen-Elv, belonging to the Hotel Alexandria at Loen
(p. 18.5) ; the linuma, in the Romsdal (p. 208); and the Fortun-Elv,
near Skjolden (p. 144). Tront-flshing may be enjoyed by visitors to
Aaserals Sunalorium (p. 90), the Hotel Gloppen (p. 184), etc.
It is difficult now to obtain good shooting in Norway or Swe-
den. The mountains enclosing the Ilalliiigdal still afford reindeer
shooting , which may also be had on the Hardanger Vidda, near
the Romsdal, near Raros, in Lapland, or, still better, in Spitz-
bcrgen ; and wild-fowl abound in many parts of Norway, partic-
ularly in the trackless forests of 0stordalen , in the Ostra and
Vestra Dal in Dalarne, around the Storsjci in Jcmtland, and in
Lapland ; but in every case the sportsman will find serious diffi-
culties to contend with. Most of the, mountain and forest districts,
where the best sport is obtainable, belong to government, and by
a Norwegian law of 1900 a general licence to shoot there costs
100 kroner, while a licence to hunt reindeer , stag, or elk costs
200 kroner more. These licences are also required by foreigners
when permission is obtained to shoot over private property, where
the sport is generally very inferior. Another drawback to the sports-
man's enjoyment is the difficulty of obtaining tolerable quarters.
The Swedish game-laws, however, are less stringent, a licence for
shooting on unenclosed land belonging to government being seldom
required.
The Close Seasons for game, Ihoiigh they vary in rtill'erent districts,
arc aiiproxiniately as follows: — For Mack game (Ur/ianc, Ur/teiic), caper-
cailzie (TJiir), and hazel-grouse (Iljerpc), 21st May to 14th Sept. (Norway);
blackcock (Sweden), 16th Mar. to 19th Aug. ; woodcock (Norway), 21st May
to 14th .Sept.; grouse and ptarmigan (H;/pe), 1st April to 14th Sept. in
Norway, 15th Mar. to 15th Aug. in Sweden; partridge ('/ia/j/(«'n«), 12th Nov.
to 9th Sept. in Sweden; ducks 1st Jan. to 9th July in Sweden; hare
(Hare), 15th Mar. to 14th Sept. in Norway, 16th Mar. to 19th Aug. in
Sweden; stags from 1st Oct. to 14th Aug. in Norway; deer from 1st Jan.
to 31st Aug. in Sweden. In Norway reindeer (Rensdyr) may be legally
shot only from the 1st to the 14th Sept. (inclusive) and elk (Elg, Elsdijr)
only from the 10th to the 30th Sept. (in Sweden, 1st to 15th Sept.). Rein-
deer shooting has, however, been prohibited until 1907.
For salmon (Lax) and sea-trout (Se-orret) in rivers, estuaries, and
lakes, the close season is frona 15th Sept. to 30th April.
Comp. 'Norwegian Anglings and Sportings', issued periodically
by Messrs. J. A. Lumley ^' Co., Lumley House, 34 St. James's St.,
London.
Skatisg and Ski-ing (i.e. snowshoeing in the native manner) may he
enjoyed at Christiania, Voss, and many other places in Norway between
the end of December and the beginning of March.
VIII. Maps. Books.
Maps. In maps of a vast country like the Scandinavian penin-
sula tliere is plenty of room for names ; but as it is thinly peopled
the names are apt to mislead, farm-houses and even 'sjeters' or
chalets being sometimes marked almost as boldly as Christiania it-
self. In the maps in the Handbook the names of unimportant
'gaards' have been omitted, but those of churches retained. When
a place has several different names the commonest is given.
In NoK-\vAY the series of Ordnance' Maps, begun in 1826, on the
scale of 1 : 200,000 (1 kr. per sheet), is all that is available for a
great part of the country. The older of these maps are often
indistinct, the plates having suffered from frequent use. A new
ordnance map in 200 sheets, on a scale of 1 : 100,000, called the
^Topografisk Kart over Kongeriget Norge\ and a less satisfactory
^Generalkart over det sydlige Norge' , on a scale of 1 : 400,000 (in
three colours; to be completed in 18 sheets), are now in progress.
Of the former less than the half had appeared in 1903 (GO e. per
sheet). — The most suitable travelling maps are ihe Reisekart over
det Sydlige og Nordlige Norge ^ on a scale of 1 : 800,000, prepared
from oflicial sources by P. Nissen (published by Cammermeyer of
Christiania; S. Norway in two sheets at 11/2 kr. each ; N. Norway,
four sheets, in two covers, at 2 kr. each), with the 'skyds-stations'
and tlie distances carefully marked, and Oscar Nieisen's Lomme-
Reisekart over Norge (1:400,000; same publishers; in fourteen
sections at 40-80 0. each), embracing the must frequented regions.
A ^Reisekart over Sendmere' by Kristofer /iander« (1 :250,000) was
published in 1894. Lastly we may mention Haffner iS' DahVs Kart
over Finmarkens Amt (1 : 400,000; two sheets).
Of SwKDKN there is an excellent new ordnance map, called
the ^Topografiska Corpsens Karta ofver Sverige' (water coloured
blue), on a scale of 1 : 100,000. In 1903 there had appeared 90
sheets, extending on the N. to Lake Venern and Gefle (V2-2 kr.
per sheet). — Another good map is the ^Generalkarta ofver Sveriye'
(1 : 1,000,000), in three sheets. For N. Sweden may be mentioned
the new 'Karta ofvtr Norrhottns IJin' (1:200,000; in 45 sheets).
The portions of this map specially useful to tourists have been
published together in a special cover (3 kr.) , by Dr. Frederick
Svenoniui, author of a guide to N. Sweden.
Books. Of the numerous books treating of Norway and Sweden
a few useful and accessible works are mentioned here: —
Abercromhy^ John, The Pre- and Proto-Historic Finns, Lond., 1899.
Baker, Mrs. Woods, Pictures of Swedish Life, London, 1895.
Brace, C. Loring, The Norse Folk, etc.. New York, 18.')?.
Bradshaw,J., Norway, its Fjords, Fjelds, and Fosses, Lond. , 1895.
Ihoch, Royaume de Norvi-ge, etc., 2nd ed., 1878.
Bri'ichner, Jessie, Danish Life in Town and Country, London, 190.^.
XXX VTTI. BOOKS.
Burton, General E.J'.,Tro«tinginNorway,Lond.,1897(foranglors).
Chapnvm, A., Wild Norway, Loiulon, 1897 (recommended to the
sportsman and naturalist).
Comparetll, Domenico, The Traditional Poetry of the Finns (Eugl.
trans, by Isabella M. Anderton ; London, 1899).
Du Chaillu, P. B., Land of the Midnight Sun, 2 vols., 1881.
Forbes, J. D., Norway and its Glaciers, Edin., 1853.
Godwin, Mary, Letters from Norway, 1796.
Goodman, E.J., Best Tour in Norway, London, new edition, 1903.
Hansen, H. M. , etc. Norway: official puhlication for the Paris.
Exhibition of 1900; translated by H. L. Brtekstad and others.
Hare, A.J. C, Sketches in Holland and Scandinavia, Lond., IHHf),
Hyne, CutcUffe, Through Arctic Lapland, London, 1898.
Keary, C. F., Norway and the Norwegians, London, 1892.
Lovett, Norwegian Pictures, 1885.
■•Old Bushman'", Ten Years in Sweden, London, 18(i5.
Oppenheim, E. ('., New Climbs in Norway, London, 1899 (Send-
m»re district).
OHe, Miss E. C, Denmark and Iceland, London, 1881.
Pritchelt, R. T., Gamle Norge, London, 1879.
Sandeman, Eraser, Angling Travels in Norway, London, 1895.
Schiibeler, Viridarium Norvegianum (good account of the flora).
Stone, O. M., Norway in June, London, 1889.
Sundbdrg, La Suede , son Peuple et son Lidustrie. Stockholm
1900 (about to be translated into English).
Taylor, Bayard, Northern Travel, London, 1857.
Thomas, W. W., Sweden and the Swedes, London, 1892.
'Three in Norway', by Two of Them, London, 1887.
Tweedie, Mrs. A., Winter Jaunt to Norway.
Vicary, J. F., An American in Norway, London, 1885.
Vincent, Norsk, Lapp, and Finn, 1881.
WiUson, Rev. Thomas B., History of the Church and State in
Norway, London, 1903.
Wood, C. W., Round about Norway, London, 1882.
— , Under Northern Skies, London, 1886.
— , Norwegian By- Ways, London, 1903.
IX. Names and their Meanings.
The spelling and pronunciation of the names of Scandinavian
places is very variable. In Sweden the modified a and o are writ-
ten a and o, in Norway usually cp and 0, while a and also occur,
the latter being sometimes used to indicate the short sound of the
letter. Again in Norway aa (or a), au, ou, and are frequently
interchanged, as in La.ag (Lag), Laug, Long, or Log, 'river', and
HaugOT Houy, 'hill'. The vowels 0, u, ei, 01, and e are also frequently
interchanged, their pronunciation remaining nearly identical, so
that the same word will sometimes assume such various forms as
IX NAMES AND THEIR MEANINGS. xxxi
Synjereim, Sennerhetm, or Sennerum, Bredheim or Breum, Marok,
Mirruak, or Merok, Eulfjord or 0ifjord. The letter d in combin-
ation with other consonants or at the end of a word is usually mute,
and therefore often omitted (as Meheia for Medheia, Haukeli for
Haukelid, Grotli for Grotlid, etc.). Lastly, g and fc, when hard, are
often used indifferently , as Agershus or Akershus , Egersund or
Ekersund, Vig or Vik. The article en or ef (see grammar in the
appendix) is often added in common speech to names which appear
in the map without it [Krogleven, Kroglev, etc.). In Danish or Nor-
wegian the letter w does not occur, but in Swedish v and w are con-
stantly interchanged.
In hoth countries the traveller will often be struck by the
primitiveness of the nomenclature, many names signifying merely
'the creek', 'the promontory', 'the lake', 'the end of the lake',
'the river", 'the river-valley', 'the valley-river'. Farm-houses again
are usually named after their proprietors , and the converse is
often the case. The following is a list of several common Norwe-
gian words (tp and being placed last in the alphabet) : —
Aak, Ok, yriibubly cun- Uei, Heia, barren height. Stabbur, storehouse.
traded from Aaker or //eJ^e, slab, rock, cliff. SteL Stul^ see 'Sitter".
A(/er, field, cultivated Hyl, JInl, hollow, basin. Stue , wooden house,
land. Jekiil, glacier. steter, hut.
Aar., from Aa, river. Juv, gorge, precipice. Sund, strait, ferry.
Atts, riilgf. Kile, liay. Tind, peak.
Aur, see 0re. Kirke, church. Tjwrn, Tjern, or Kjtem,
Bakke, hill. Kiev, clilf. mountain-lake, 'tarn'.
Iji\i;. glacier. Kolie, hill. Tuft, Tomt,sHe. ui'hi)\i»e,
J!u, liu, 'Gaard', hamlet. Kvam, Qvam, ravine. plot of ground (English
hij, town, village. Laag, Log, Laug, Loug, and Scotch provincial
Hyyd , parish , district, river. 'toft\ 'toom'j.
hamlet. Lund, grove, thicket. Tveit (ling, 'thwaite'),
Ikil, valley. Lykke, hamlet, garden. clearing.
t!yg. corner, edge, ridge. Mark, field. Uf, rubble, loose stones.
Kid or Eide, isthmus, Mo, Mog, plain, dale. Vaag, bay, harbour.
neck of land. Mork, Meik, forest; also Vand, Vain, water, lake.
Elv, river. a 'mountain-tracl'. Vang, meadow, pasture.
/>'a,'i'«, ebb-tide, the beach Noes, nose, promontory. Vas, contracted genitive
expo.ied at ebb-tide. iVu<, mountain-top, peak. of 'Vand'.
Fjeld, mountain. Odde , tongue of land, Vig, Vik, creek.
/•yo/"(i. ljay,armof thesea. promontory. ¥el, sandy slope.
Eos, Eors, waterfall. Os, tis, mouth, estuary. 0, island.
0««/'ii,farm-house(Engl. Plads, hamlet, clearing. .0'(;,.6''y,peninsula, tongue
'yard'). Prastegaavd, pai-sonage. of land.
Oald, rocky slope. <Ste<e»', 'chalet', mountain £fre , Mlyv , alluvial or
Wfi^Mi/, group of chalets. farm, cowhe.rd.'i' hut. gravelly soil, tongue
Iluiig, Hviuj, hill. Sj0, Se, lake. of land.
Many places have two or more names, one usually applying to
the church, another to the principal 'gaard', a third to the posting-
station, and so on, the number of names being sometimes in an in-
verse ratio to the importance of the place.
X. On the Physical Geography of Scandinavia.
Situation. Geological Formation. Coast Line.
Scandinavia, the largest peninsula in Europe, embracing the
kingdom of Norway on the W. and N. sides, Sweden on the E. and
S., and part of Russia to the N.E., is about 296,500 Engl. sq. M.
in area. It extends from S.S.W. to N.N.E. between 57° 57' and
71° 11' N. latitude, being upwards of 1100 Engl. M. in length.
Between the Gulf of Bothnia and the N.W. coast its breadth is about
260 Engl. M., and towards the S. it gradually increases, though
at the point where the Trondhjem P'jord forms a deep indentation
it narrows to 160 M. Farther to the S., in latitude GO" (that of
Christiania and Upsala), the width increases to 435 M., beyond
which Norway forms a rounded peninsula ending in Cape Lindes-
n.-es (58° 59'"), while the S. part of Sweden forms another pen-
insula to the S.E. of the Christiania Fjord, gradually narrowing,
and terminating in the promontory of Falsterbo (5.5° 20' j near Co-
penhagen. The entire coast-line of the peninsula, disregarding
its innumerable indentations, measures 2060 M. in length , the
part between Cape LindesniBS and Vadse alone measuring 1250 M.
The peninsula contains no distinctly connected mountain-ranges
like those in most other countries, but mainly consists in its W,
part of a vast elevated plateau, descending abruptly to the western
fjords and sloping gradually down to the plains of Sweden and the
Gulf of Bothnia on the E. side. Roughly speaking, a line drawn
parallel with the W. coast, about 50-60 Engl. M. inland, marks
the boundary of the mountain-plateau, the W. margin of which is
deeply indented with innumerable bays and creeks, and fringed
M'ith a belt of countless rocky islands. The latter are known as
Skjar (Sw. skar), and the island-belt as the Skjargaard (skdrgard).
To different parts of the mountain-plateau are applied tlie names
of Fjeld ('fell'), Heidar ('heights'), and 17(Mer ('widths', barren
expanses), and in the N. part of the peninsula Kjeler ('mountain
ranges'), and from it rise at intervals rounded and occasionally
pointed peaks of considerable height.
The Mountains are composed almost entirely of primary rocks,
presenting nearly the same form as when originally solidified, and
are rarely overlaid with more recent formations, so that for the ge-
ologist they possess the charm of the most hoar antiquity. These
primary rocks consist of granite, gneiss, mica, hornblende, slate,
quarzite, clay-slate, limestone, and dolomite, disposed in strata,
corresponding with which are occasional well-defined layers of
later slate-formations and particularly of limestone. At places,
notably in the Romsdal, or Valley of the Rauma, the gneiss , the
oldest of these rocks, towers in most imposing pinnacles, 5000-
6000 ft. in height, unencumbered by any later formations. That
X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxiii
valley extends from the Moldefjord to the S.E., iutersectiug the
pure gneiss rock, which rises on each side in almost perpendicular
cliffs, 2000-3000 ft. in height, and is afterwards prolonged by
the Gudbrandsdal descending to Lake Mjasen. In grandeur of
rock-scenery, and in the purity of its formation, this magnificent
valley is hardly inferior to the far-famed Yosemite Valley of the
Sierra Nevada in California.
About the year 1840 rocks of the Silurian Formation were
discovered by geologists near the Christiania Fjord, and other depo-
sits of that period have since been found in Skane, Vester-Got-
liind, the island of Gotland, Herjeadalen, und Jemtland in Swe-
den, and also on the banks of Lake Mjesen and in Trondhjems
Stift in Norway, but nowhere of great extent. The largest Silurian
basin in the peninsula is that of the Storsjo in Jemtland, a lake
of 2570 Engl. sq. M. in area.
One of the most instructive sections of the country is formed
by the route from Sundsvall in Sweden to Ostersund on the Storsjo
and Trondhjem in Norway. The primitive crystalline rocks of
Jemtland are first replaced by limestone, extending to the E.
bank of the lake, where the Silurian formations begin. These
stretch westwards to the great mountain-backbone of Sweden and
Norway. On this route rises Areskutan, the highest mountain in
Sweden (p. 384), part of the base of which on the E. and W. sides
belongs to the Silurian formation, while the primary rocks, con-
sisting of quartzite, hornblende, mica-slate, and gneiss, protrude
through it all the way to the summit. From this vantage-ground
we obtain an excellent idea of the character of the Scandinavian
mountains. Many of the hills, rounded and worn by glacier-action,
are almost entirely bare , or clothed only with lichens (Cetraria
cucullata nivalis, Croniciilaria ochroleuca, etc.), and present an
exceedingly sombre and dreary appearance. The slopes of the
intervening basins are often well wooded, but the lower plateaux
are mainly covered with vast tracts of lake and marsh.
Coal occurs here and there in the peninsula. The coal-measures
of Helsingborg at the S. extremity of the peninsula are of con-
siderable extent. On the island of Ande, one of the Vesteraalen
group, in latitude 09°, a bed of coal was also recently discovered
at the mouth of the Ramsaa, the organic remains in which prove
that the island must have undergone violent convulsions about the
period when the coal was formed. Under the sea extends a thick
scam of coal, above which lie strata of sandstone, clay-slate, and
later coal, extending into the island. The island must therefore
have once been larger than now, and thickly clothed with vege-
tation , after which it appears to have been submerged and then
upheaved anew.
The configuration of the mainland must at one time have differ-
ed greatly from its present form. That it was once higher above
Babdkkbs's Horway and Sweden. 8th Edit. c d
xxxiv X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
the sea than now is proved by the nature of the coast with its
■water and ice-worn fjords, straits, and isthmuses (Eide). On the
other hand the sea appears within recent centuries to have receded
at places. This was lirst observed by Celsius (d. 1744) and Linnceus
(d. 1778), who caused marks to be made on the rocks at Kalmar
and Gefle with a view to measure the retrocession of the sea , by
the German naturalist Jieit at Varde in 1769, and by L. von Buck,
the geologist, in 1807. Throughout a vast tract, extending from
Spitzbergen to about latitude 62", the whole country is ascertained
to be gradually rising, or the sea to be receding. In the Altenfjord,
near Hammerfest, there are ancient coast-lines 620 ft. above the
present sea-level, and others gradually decreasing in height extend
all the way to Trondhjem and still farther S., while at Trondhjcm
itself it is well authenticated that the coast has risen 20 ft. within
1000 years. At Tornea, at the head of the Gulf of Bothnia, the ground
is even said to have risen 5 ft. in a century ; in the Aland Islands,
farther to the S., a rise of 3 ft. within the same time has been ob-
served ; while at Karlskrona no change of level has been detected. To
the S. of Karlskrona, on the other hand, a gradual depression of the
land or encroachment of the sea appears to be taking place. These
calculations are probably not very trustworthy, but careful measure-
ments made at eleven different places between 1839 and 1865
proved that the average rise of the coast-line between Maasef and
Christiania during that period was 1 foot. According to Kjerulf,
the most eminent of the Norwegian geologists, the elevation of the
coast has taken place fitfully, as several facts tend to prove. Thus
it will generally be observed that in all the Norwegian valleys and
fjords there are several distinct terraces, between which there is a
sudden and well-defined dip, and that the old coast-lines, with
their heaps of debris , descend abruptly at their lower ends at an
angle of 25-30". Again it will be noticed that the different water-
levels on the rocks are marked by a kind of disintegrated pathway
or furrow, each separated from its neighbour by a comparatively
intact and unworn surface.
With regard to the Glaciers of Norway, the traveller will ob-
serve that all the most important are situated to the S. of latitude
67°, The largest is the Jostedalsbra (jp. 130), lying between lat.
61° and 62°, 515 Engl. sq. M. in area, and the largest glacier in
Europe. In form it resembles an enormous roof, from which a
number of offshoots descend to within 150-200 ft. of the sea-level.
A similar ice -mantle is that of the Folge fond (jp. 104), a little
to the S. of lat. 60°, and another of vast extent is that of Suart-
isen (p. 239), within the Arctic Circle. The upper parts of these
glaciers form immense and nearly level expanses of dazzling ice
and snow, unbroken by moraines or crevasses, except where their
ramifications descend into the valleys, or by peaks rising above
them. These plateaux of ice correspond with the mountain
X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxv
configuration peculiar to Norway, and on a small scale they afford
an idea of the character of the glaciers which once covered the
whole country. Of that glacier-period numerous traces still exist
in Scandinavia. Striated rocks are everywhere observable, from
the coast -line upwards; the de'bris of moraines is distributed
over every part of the country ; and the soil formed by glacier
friction now forms good cultivable land and affords abundant
material for brick-making. Erratic Blocks seem to have been
llrst deposited in S. Sweden by the glaciers on their southward
course, and they abound in N. Germany, sometimes lying a
few feet only below the surface of the soil , sometimes clustered
together with sand, mud , and gravel, and rising into hills of 70-
185 ft. in height, called Asar in Sweden , and known in Ireland
and Scotland as escars and kames.
The coast is indented with innumerable Fjords, most of
which have minor ramifications. Similar indentations occur in
the precipitous W. coast of N. America , extending northwards
from the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and on the S. American coast, to
the S. of the Island of Ohiloe, and on a smaller scale there are
numerous fjords on the W. and E. coasts of Greenland, in Spitz-
bergen, Nova Zembla, and on the W. coasts of Iceland, Scotland,
and Ireland. All these fjord-formations cease within 40-50° from
the equator, and at the same time they generally correspond with
the rainiest regions of the countries where they occur. The E. coast
of Scandinavia was probably also at one time indented with fjords,
to which the numerous inland lakes once belonged, but which have
gradually been filled up by the alluvial deposits of the rivers. That
the fjords have been formed, as would naturally be supposed, by
the erosive action of ice and water, seems to be disproved by the
fact that they are often much deeper than the sea beyond their
mouths. The Sognefjord, for example, is no less than 4100 ft.
deep at places. The fact appears rather to be that these basins
existed before the glacier era. They are generally narrow and
deep, and, with the exception of those in E. Finmarken, they lie
at right angles to the axis of the mountains. On the banks of the
fjords usually extends a strip of fertile and sheltered land which
has attracted a considerable population.
The immense and intricate archipelago of the Skjsergaard
(skargard), or island-belt, which affords admirable shelter to the
coasting steamers, accompanies nearly the whole of the Scandina-
vian coast from Vadse to Haparanda. The only considerable inter-
vals are in the Arctic Ocean near the North Cape, off the mouth of
the Foldenfjord (Qiy.2°)) ofi Jaderen and L<«<er (between 58° and
59°), and opposite the coasts of Halland and Skane in Sweden.
Within tlie Arctic Circle are a considerable number of large islands,
the Kvale, on which Hammerfest is situated, the Seiland, Sere,
c*
xxxvi X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
Stjerne, Kaage, Ame, Varne, Ringvadse, and Hvale ; between
the last and the mainland is the Tromse , with the town of that
name; then Senjen and the Vcsteraalen and Lofoten Islands. Of
the last-named group the first is the Hlnde, the largest island in
Norway (870 Engl. sq. M.), to the S. of which there are others of
considerable size. All these islands, particularly those near the
Arctic Circle, are mountainous, and many of them present strik-
ingly picturesque forms. Among the finest are the Hestmandse,
Threnen, Lovunden, Alstene with the '■Seven Sisters', and the sin-
gular Torghatten, all of which are described in the Handbook
(pp. 233-261).
The great resource of the busy coast-population is the Cod
Fishery, besides which the Herring, Oyster, and Lobster Fisheries
and Seal Hunting yield a considerable revenue. The great flshing-
banks of the Lofoten Islands are mentioned at p. 244. These
fisheries support a population of no less than 100,000 souls. The
annual yield of t)ie cod-fishery is estimated at 1,300,000^, and
that of the seal-hunting (Phoca vitulina) at 55,(3O0l, while about
a million and a half of lobsters are annually exported to England
alone. Herrings formerly abounded near Stavanger, but disap-
peared from 1784 to 1808, during which period cod were abundant
in that neighbourhood. In 1808 the cod in their turn disappeared
and the herring returned, but since 1869 the former have again
been found in their old haunts. The shoals of cod and herring are
usually attended by a kind of whale (Balenoptera musculus), which
was formerly supposed to prey on the latter, but this is ascertained
to be erroneous. The oyster-fishery is chiefly carried on on the S.
coast near Kragere, and on the W. coast near Finnaas in Send-
horland, near Lindaas in Nordhorland, near Vestnas in the Roms-
dalsfjord, by the Bjare, and near Vigten in the Namsdal. The sal-
mon-fishery is also of considerable importance. Among the most
famous rivers are the Drammens-Elv, the Numedalslaag, the Ongne-
F.lv in Jaederen, the Suledals-Etv in Ryfyike, the Rauma and Driva
in the Romsdal, the Gula nearTrondhjem, the Namsen in the Nams-
dal, and the Alten-Elv and Tana in Finmarken.
These valuable resources of the coast-districts, compared with
which the Opland or inland districts offer little or no attraction to
settlers, have also given rise to the important Maritime Trade of
Norway, the foundation of which was laid by the piratical Vikings
(inhabitants of 'Viker' or creeks), whose expeditions extended to
Constantinople, and who discovered Iceland, Greenland, and N.
America ('Vinland' ; 500 years earlier than Columbus). On some
of the fjords still exist the tumuli of these early navigators, who
sometimes caused themselves to be buried along with their vessels.
The commercial fleet of Norway now ranks next to those of Great
Britain and the United States. Timber for ship-building purposes
is abundant.
X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxvii
The E. coast of the peninsula is less favourahle for navigation,
especially as many of the harbours have altered their position or
been rendered shallow by the gradual rise of the coast-line, and
accordingly few of the vikings had their headquarters there. The
coasting-trade of Stockholm, however, and the inland lake and
canal-traflic are of considerable importance.
Mountains, Lakes, and Rivers.
Owing to the sudden (iescent of the mountains on the W.
coast the streams on that side of the peninsula all have the char-
acter of torrents , while on the E. side they take the form of
long, narrow lakes, connected by rivers and often by waterfalls.
The mountains in the northern part of the peninsula, bordering
on Russia, rarely exceed 1000 ft. in height, but they become
loftier as we proceed towards the S.W. , rising to imposing
dimensions on the Lyngenfjonl (p. 260) and at the head of the
Saltenfjord (p. 242"), where the Sulltelmn forms the boundary
between the sister kingdoms. To the S. of the great glacier-moun-
tains of Svartisen (p. 239) the mountains decrease in height, and
a number of large lakes send their waters eastwards to the Baltic,
while the Namsen and Snaasen descend to the well-cultivatetl
plains on the Trondhjem Fjord. Farther to the S. the mountains,
such as the JomafjeUl, Kjelhaugen, Areskutan in Sweden, and the
Syltoppe, again attain a height of 4000-5000 ft., while the islands
off the coast contain mountains of similar height. In latitude 63"
the main range divides, the backbone of the peninsula continuing
to run southwards, while a branch diverges to the W. nearly at a
right angle. In the central range are the sources of the Oster and
\'eiter DiU-Elf,\\h\ch afterwards unite and descend to the S.E. to
the Gulf of Bothnia. Adjoining the same range lies the Famund-
Sje, out of which flows the Famunds-Elv, afterwards called the
Klar-Elf, and falling into Lake Venern, whence it descends under
the name of the Gbta-Elf to the Kattegat. A little to the N. of the
Fsemund-Sje lies the Aursund-Sje, the source of the Glommen,
the largest river in Norway, which forms the im^o&ing Sarpsfos at
Sarpsborg and falls into the Skager-Rack at Fredrikstad. Near the
same hike rises the Guta, which descends to the N.W. to Trond-
hjem; and through the valleys of these two rivers runs the impor-
tant railway from Christiania to Lake Mjescn , the copper- mines
of l\0ros, and Trondhjem.
Between the Fremund-Sje and the Glommen rise the lofty
Hmnmclfjeld, Tronfjeld, and Elgepig, and between the Glommen
and the Gudbraiulsdal tower the isolated RCndnne. To the
N.W. of the latter stretches the Dovre.fjeld, culminating in the
Snchtetta (p. 72), formerly supposed to be the highest mountain
ill Norway. To the W of this point, and to the N.W. of the Gud-
xxxviii X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
braudsdal, stretch the gneiss mountains of the Romsdal, already
mentioned. The mountains to the S. of the Romsdal are usually
known as the Langfjelde, which include the Jostedalshra with the
Lodalskaupe and extend to the Horungerfjeld and the Jotunhehn
Mountains. To the last-named group belongs the Ymesfjeld, a
huge mass of granite nearly 10 Engl. M. in breadth, culminating
in the Galdhepig (p. 157), and surrounded by rocks of the trans-
ition period. Farther to the S. lie the extensive Lukes Gjende,
Tyin, and Bygdin, enclosed by imposing mountains, belonging
like the Horunger to the easily disintegrated 'gabbro' formation,
and remarkable for picturesqueness of form. All these mountains
are covered with perpetual snow , except the highest and most
precipitous peaks, on which the snow cannot lie.
The southern mountains of Norway, which also run from N.E.
to S.W., are bounded by the Sognefjord on the N.W. , by the
Ghristiania Fjord on the S.W., and by a line drawn on the E. side
from the Fillefjeld to Christiania. Between the Sognefjord and
the Hardanger Fjord are the isolated plateaux of the Vosseskai^l,
the Hardanger Jekul, and the Halllngskarv, rising above the snow
line. The Hardanger Fjeld is separated by the innermost branch
of the Hardanger Fjord from the Folgefond (p. 104), an extensive
snow-clad mountain with several peaks. To the S.E. of the Har-
danger Fjord stretches the extensive Hardanger Vidda, with peaks
!-)000-4600 ft. in height, which gradually slope on the E. and S.
sides. Farther to the E. are the deep valleys of the picturesque
region of Telemarken, which frequently intersect each other. The
E. outpost of the whole of this mountain-region is the Skogs-
horn, to the N. of the Hallingdal. Farther to the PL are the Nume-
dal, Halilngdal, and Valders valleys, descending towards the S.,
beyond which we again meet with a number of transverse val-
leys, containing the most fertile land in Norway (such as Hade-
land on the Randsfjord and Ringerike on the Tyrifjord). The
mountains then descend to the plain of Jarlsberg and Laurvik.
Among their last spurs are the Gausta and the Lidfjeld in Tele-
marken, and the isolated Norcfjeld, rising between lake Krederen
and the Eggedal.
The mountains extending towards the S.E. next enter the
Herjeadal and Vermland in Sweden, where they contain valu-
able iron ores, particularly in Vermland, Dalarne, and Vesterman-
land. The range next runs between I^akes Venern and Vetteru,
where it is called Tiveden, and extends to the E. under the names
of the Tydbskog and Kolmarden. It then intersects the province
of Gollund aud forms the plateau of Smaland to the S. of Lake
Vetteru. An important spur a little to the S. of that lake is the
Taberg, a hill containing about 30 per cent of iron ore. 'i^lie hills
then gradually slope down to the plains of Skane and Halland,
where there are a few insignificant heights only. In the plains of
,X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxix
Gotland rise the isolated KinnekuUe on Lake Veuern, the Halle-
berg, the Hunneberg, and the Ornberg.
The Swedish islands of Gotland^ unA. Oland contain no hills
above 210 ft. in height.
Of comparatively late geological formation Ms the Swedish
Basin extending from the Skager-Rack throughj' Lakes Venern
and Yetteru to Lake Miilaien, the land to the S. of which was
probably once an island. These lakes are believed to have once
formed a waterway to the Gulf of Finland, which again was prob-
ably connected with the White Sea , and this theory is borne
out by the fact that a kind of crayfish found in the White Sea
and Lake Venern does not exist in the Atlantic or in the Baltic.
The modern canal -routejjconnecting these lakes is described in
RR. 45-48.
The coast to the N. of Stockholm is flat, and intersected by
numerous rivers and long lakes, at the mouths of which lie a
number of towns chiefly supported by the timber-trade. One of the
most important lakes is the picturesque Siljan (p. 375), through
which the Oster-Dal-Elf flows. Below Falun that river joins the
Vester-Dai-Klf, and their united waters form a fine cataract at
Elfkarleby. Of the many other rivers the most important are the
picturesque Angerman-Elf (j^. 389), theI/Mie-£i/'(p. 397), and the
Torne-Elf {jp. 404). The last, the longest of all, is connected by a
branch with the parallel river Kalix. Most of these eastern rivers
are rather a series of lakes connected by rapids and waterfalls. The
heavy rainfall among the mountains, descending into the valleys
where the sun has not power to evaporate it, forms these lakes
and extensive swamps, the overflow of which descends from basin
to basin till it reaches the sea. The lower ends of these rivers
are generally navigable for some distance. Steamboats ply on the
Angerman-Klf and the Lule-Elf.
Climate and Vegetation.
Temperature. Judging from the degrees of latitude within
which the peninsula lies , one would expect the climate to
be uniformly severe and inclement, but this is only the case on
the E. coast and among the central mountains. The climate of the
W. coast is usually mild, being influenced by the Atlantic and
the Gulf Stream which impinges upon it. In the same latitude in
which Franklin perished in the Arctic regions of America, and in
which lies the almost uninhabitable region of E. Siberia, the water
of these western fjords of Norway never freezes except in their
upper extremities. As we proceed from W. to E., and in some
degree even from N. to S., the temperate character of the climate
changes, and the winters become more severe. The climate is
perhaps most equable at Skudesncrs, near Stavanger, where the
mean temperature of.Tanuary is 3-i.7"Fahr. , and that of July on. 4":
xl X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
difference 20.7°. At Stockholm, on the other hand, the mean tem-
perature of January is '24.8", and that of July 63.5°: difference
38.7°. The difference is still greater in many places farther to the
N., as at Jockmock (66° 36' N. lat. ; 925 ft. above the sea), where
the January temperature is 3.2°, that of July 57.92°, and the differ-
ence 54.90°. The tract lying between the Varanger Fjord and the
Gulf of Bothnia, the interior of Finmarken and Lapland, and the
southern mountains above the height of 2300 ft., all have an an-
nual mean temperature below the freezing point. Some of the
other isothermal lines are curious. Thus the line which marks a
mean January temperature of 32° Fahr. runs from the Lofoten
Islands southwards, passing a little to the E. of Bergen and through
the inner part of the Stavanger Fjord. It then turns to the S.E.
to Cape Lindesnaes, and thence to the N.E. towards the Christia-
nia Fjord, and southwards to Gotenburg and Copenhagen. The
line marking a mean January temperature of 23° passes through
Hammerfest, Saltdalen, Reros, Christiania, and Upsala. In the
depth of winter, therefore, the Lofoten Islands are not colder than
Copenhagen, nor Hammerfest than Christiania. Again, while the
mean temperature of the whole year at the North Cape is 35.6", it
is no higher at Ostersund in Jemtland, 552 Engl. M. farther
south. Lastly, while the climate on the W. coast is comparatively
equable throughout the year, that of the E. coast and the interior
of the country is made up of a long, severe winter and a short and
sometimes oppressively hot summer. The average temperature of
the sea is 3l/o-7° warmer than the air, being of course lower than
that of the air in summer and higher in winter. The healthiest
part of the peninsula is probably the island of Karme, where the
death-rate is only 12 per thousand. The average rate for Norway
is 19, for Sweden 20 per thousand.
Rainfall. In the interior of Norway less rain falls than on the
coast. In Sweden the greatest rainfall is between Gefie and Goten-
burg. The mean rainfall in Sweden is 20.28 inches , that of
Gotenburg 28.18, and that of the E. coast 16.88 Inches. August
is the rainiest month in Sweden , especially in the N. provinces.
In Norway the maximum rainfall is at Floref, where it sometimes
reaches 90-91 inches per annum ; on the S. coast the average is
about 40 inches, and on the W. coast, to the S. and N. of Flore,
70-75 inches. August and September are the rainiest months in
the E. districts of Norway, but on the W. coast the rainy season
is rather later. June and July are therefore the best months
for travelling in Sweden and the E. districts of Norway, and July
and August for the W. coast. In the neighbourhood of the Roms-
dal the rainy season does not usually set in before December.
Hail and thunderstorms are rare in Norway. The latter, however,
are sometimes very violent on the W. coast, where no fewer than
forty churches have been destroyed by lightning within tlie last
X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
xli
150 years. The fullo-wiiig table shows the mean temperature and
average rainfall in different parts of Norway : —
K.5
a c
Vardei ....
Nybovy ....
Fruholmen . .
Alten
Tromse . . .
Andences . . .
Bode
Itanen ....
Brene ....
VUereen . . .
Chi'istianssund
42 70°
fO°
29
39
26
36 '67°
46 1 66°
38 65°
250 63°
66 63°
39'|35,
45 -
30 -
42
62
96
48
48
22
28
30.55
34.34
0OJ22.36
16 37.48
Ona ....
Dovt-e . . .
Beros . . .
Flore . . .
Bergen . .
Ullensvany
Skudesnws
Lindesnces
Mandal . .
Sandesund
CJtrisHcinia
5262°
216062°
206062°
2961"
4960°
33 60°
36 59°
2957°
56 58°
4259°
79'59°
44.24
32.54
27. 5
43.85
44.60
44.78
44.78
14.39
75.27
72.25
42.83
44.24 —
43.85 55.11
43.85 23.14
55'|41.36i21.19
AiB, Pbessuee. The pressure of the air in January is greatest
in the interior of N. Norway and lowest in Finmarken. In July it
is highest on the W. coast and lowest in the interior. The pre-
vailing winds in winter are accordingly land-winds, which are fre-
quently diverted towards the N. and follow the line of the coast.
In summer, on the other hand, W. and S.W. winds prevail, blow-
ing towards the region where the air-pressure is lowest, also fre-
quently following the line of the coast towards the N., and rarely
impinging on the coast at a right angle. The most prevalent wind
blows from the S.W., and on the coast is usually accompanied with
dull weather, but this is less the case in the interior. The most
violent storms, which prevail chiefly in winter, come from the same
quarter. The mountains form a boundary between two distinct
climates, the W. wind being the dampest on the W. coast and the
driest in the interior.
The Vegetation, as might be expected from the climate and
the geological features of the peninsula, is generally poor, but the
flora is unusually rich for so northern a region. About 25,750
Engl. sq. M. are covered with forest, chiefly pines, the wood of
which is valuable owing to the closeness of the rings which
mark its annual growth. Next in frequency are the oak , the
birch, the elm, and the beech. Other trees occur also, but
not in the forests. The beech , which suifers more from cold than
the oak, but does not require so high a mean temperature, rarely
occurs in Sweden N. of Kalmar, while the oak is found as far N.
as Gefle. In Norway, on the other hand , the beech extends to a
point beyond Bergen , and the red beech even occurs at Troud-
hjem. Near Laurvik , in latitude 59-59 Y2°, the beech is found in
considerable plantations. ■ — The apple-tree (Pyrus mains) occurs
xlii . X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.
as far as 65" 10' N. lat., the plum (Prunus domestica) up to 64",
and the cherry to 6G°, while currauts (Ribes nigrum and rubrum),
gooseberries (Ribes grossularia) , strawberries (Fragaria vesca),
raspberries (Rubus idaeusj, and the common bilberry (Vaccinium
myr I ilius ) occuT as far north as the North Cape.
Wheat is cultivated as far as QA^/o", and in the S. districts up
to a height of 1000-1250 ft. above the sea ; Rye grows as far N. as
()9°, and in the S. up to a height of 1950 ft. ; Barley and Oats
occur up to 70°, and in the S. to a height of 2050 ft. above the
sea. Botanists are referred to the instructive works of Schuebeler
and Axel Blytt. — The cultivated land in Norway occupies the
insignificant area of 1074 Engl. sq. M., but in Sweden 10,678sq. M.
Ju the northern regions the Oxyria remiformis, a kind of sorrel,
is largely cultivated as a substitute for corn. It is kept in a frozen
condition in winter and boiled down to a pulp for use, being fre-
quently mixed with flour and made into Fladbred. In the S.
districts, however, the 'flat bread' is usually made of wheat or
barley flour mixed with mashed potatoes , and sometimes with
pease-meal. The Lapps mix their bread with reindeer-milk and
sometimes with the bitter Mulgedium alpinum , which is believed
to be a preventive of scurvy.
It is a curious fact that barley takes exactly the same time
(90 days) to ripen at Alten (70° N. lat.) as at Christiauia and in
the S. of France, but it is now generally believed that the great
length of the Arctic days compensates for the lack of warmth. The
seed, however, if brought from a warmer climate, requires to be
acclimatised, and does not yield a good crop until after two or three
seasons , so that the effects of a bad harvest are felt for several
succeeding years.
The traveller will also observe that the leaves of most of the
trees which occur in the northern districts of Norway are largei
than those of trees of the same kind in the southern regions. Thus
the leaves of maples and plane-trees (Acer platanoides and pseudo-
■platanus) transplanted from Christiania to Tromserhave been found
to increase greatly in size , while the trees themselves become
dwarfed in their growth. This leaf development is also attributed
to the long continuance of the sunlight in summer. It would be
interesting to know what effects the protracted light produces on
the colours of flowers and the flavour of fruits , but these points
have not yet been investigated.
The Animal Kingdom comprises most of the domestic and other
animals common in Great Britain , besides many which are now
extinct there, and a number of others peculiar to the Arctic regions.
Among the animals most characteristic of the country are the iQin-
Aeei (Cervus tarandus), an exceedingly useful mammal , and the
sole support of the nomadic Lapps, and the lemming (Oeorychus
X. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xliii
lemmus), a rodent, somewhat resembling a water-rat. Among
beasts of prey the bear and the wolf are still common in many
parts of the country, and the lynx and glutton occasionally occur.
For killing any one of these the government offers a reward of lb
crowns. Conspicuous among large game is the handsome elk
('Elsdyr' ; Cerous aloes'), now becoming rare, next to which rank
the reindeer and the red deer. The finest of the wildfowl is the
capercailzie ('Tjur' ; Tetraourogallus) , after which come the
ptarmigan ('Rype'; Lagopus mutus) and hazel -grouse ('Hjerpe';
Tetrao bonasid). Partridges rarely occur in Norway, but abound
in the S. of Sweden, where they were introduced about the year
ioOO. The most valuable of the wildfowl, however, is the eider-
duck ('Eder'; Anas molllssima'), which is most abundant within
the Arctic Circle. The down of the female, which she uses in
making her nest, is gathered in the 7)(tni'(Pr of Finmarken, yield-
ing a considerable revenue.
The Population is now almost exclusively of Gothic origin, but
the oldest element consists of tixeLapps and theFinns, who were prob-
ably the aboriginal inhabitants of the country and who both belong
to the Ugrian race. Their languages are both of the Turanian stock
(^akin to Hungarian), and are said by Castren , the philologist, to
have been identical some 2000 years ago. The Lapps now number
about '24,000 only in Norway and Sweden , and the Finns about
22,000 souls. They are both of the Mongolian type, with high
cheek-bones, low foreheads, full lips, narrow eyes, blunt noses,
and yellowish complexions, but the Finns are. now by far the su-
perior race, both physically and mentally. The names usually
applied to them are not used by themselves. The Lapps ('nomads")
call themselves Sami or Sahmelads, and the Finns ('fen-dwellers")
Suomi. — The dominant race, by which the Lapps have been well-
nigh extinguished , is of the Aryan or Indo-Germanic stock , and
is believed to liave begun to settle in the peninsula before the
birth of Christ (see p. xiiv). With regard to their language, see the
grammars at the end of the volume. — The total population of
Norway is about 2,231,000, that of Sweden about 5,000,000. The
annual increase, which is slow, owing to the frequency of emigra-
tion, now amounts in Norway to about 22,000, and in Sweden to
!57,000 per annum.
xliv
XI. History of Sweden and Norway.
Prehistoric Period. The earliest antiquities in Scandinavia
belong to the Flint Period, during -which the peninsula appears to
have been inhabited by the same race as Denmark and N. Ger-
many. Their rude implements indicate that they possessed fixed
dwelling-places and cattle, and were acquainted with the art of
fishing and probably of hunting also. They buried their dead in
large stone tomb-chambers. This epoch was succeeded by the
Brokze Period, when implements and ornaments in bronze and
even in gold were first imported, and afterwards manufactured by
the natives themselves. Agriculture was now regularly practised,
and the same domestic animals were used as at the present day.
The tombs of this period sometimes contain cinerary urns , and
sometimes bones unconsumed. During this and the preceding
period the population seems to have been confined to Skane and
Vester-Gotland. Lastly, about the time of the birth of Christ,
begins the Iron Period, when the use of that metal was intro-
duced from Central Europe. At the same time silver and glass
make their appearance , and Roman coins and 'bracteates' (orna-
mental disks of metal) are occasionally found.
During this period also the contents of tombs prove that the
dead were sometimes burned and sometimes buried in coffins. The
cinerary urns are usually of terracotta, rarely of bronze. Among
other curiosities which have been found in the tombs are trinkets
and weapons, some of which appear to have been purposely broken.
To this period also belong the earlier Runic Inscriptions, in a large
character differing from that afterwards used. Quite distinct from
the earlier part of this era is the Later Iron Period, which be-
gan in Sweden about the year 500 or 600, and in Norway about
the year 700 A. D. The Runic inscriptions of this period are in
the smaller character, and the language had by this time attained
to nearly the same development as that used by the later MSS.,
while the native workmanship exhibits evidence of a new and in-
dependent, though still barbarous, stage of culture.
To what race the inhabitants of Scandinavia during the first
and second of these periods belonged is uncertain, but it is sup-
posed that they were of the aboriginal Finnish stock. That the
relics of the following periods were left by a different race is most
probable, as no antiquities have been found which show a gradual
transition from the bronze to the early iron period, and it is well
ascertained that the inhabitants of the S. parts of the peninsula
were of Germanic origin, both during the earlier and later iron
periods. It has also been ascertained that the older Runic alpha-
bet of 24 letters, common to Scandinavian , Anglo-Saxon, Bur-
gundian, and Gothic inscriptions, was afterwards modified by the
Scandinavians, who substituted for it the smaller character, con-
XI. HISTORY. x\v
sistiug of 16 letters only. It therefore seems to be a well-estab-
lished fact that during the later iron period, if not earlier, the
Scandinavians had developed into a nationality distinct from the
ancient Goths or the Anglo-Saxons.
Transition to the Historical Period.
The earliest historical writers agree that Scandinavia was at
an early period inhabited partly by a Germanic race, and partly
by Finns or Lapps. The Germanic inhabitants, before whom the
weaker race seems gradually to have retreated , were first settled
in Skane (Skaney) in the S. of Sweden , whence the country was
named Scandia, and the people Scandinavians. The name of
'Swedes' is mentioned for the first time by Tacitus (Suiones), the
'Goths' are spoken of by Ptolemy, and the Suethans and Suethidi
(i.e. Svear and Svtthjod) by Jordanis. Jordanis also mentions
the Ostrogothae and Finnaithne, or the inhabitants of Oster-Gotland
and Finnveden in Sweden , the Dani or Danes , the Raumaricli
and Ragnaricii, or natives of Komerike and Raurike in Norway,
and lastly the Ethelrugi or Adalrygir, and the Ulmerugi or Holni-
rygir. As far back, therefore, as the beginning of our era, the
population in the S. of Sweden and Norway appears to have been
of the Gothic stock. To this also points the fact that the names
of Rugians, Burgundians , and Goths still occur frequently in
Scandinavia; the Rygir were a Norwegian tribe, the name Bor-
gund and Bornholm (Borgundarholm) recur more than once , and
the district of Gotland and the island of Gotland or Gutland were
doubtless so called by Goths or Jutes. It is therefore more than
probable that the picturesque myth of the immigration of the /Esir
or ancient Scandinavians from Asia under the leadership of Odin
entirely lacks foundation in fact.
It is at least certain that the history of Scandinavia begins
with the later iron period. At that time the southernmost part of
Sweden seems to have belonged to the Danes. Farther N. was
settled the tribe of the Gotar, to whom belonged the adjacent is-
land of Oland, while Gotland appears to have been occupied by an
independent tribe. Still farther N. were the Svear, who occupied
Upland, Vestermanland, Siidermanland, andNerike. The territories
of the Gotar and the Svear were separated by dense forest, while
the latter were also separated from the Norwegian tribes by forests
and by Lake Venern and the Gota-Elf. Beowulf, the famous Anglo-
Saxon epic poem, dating from about the year 700, mentions Den-
mark as an already existing kingdom, and also speaks of the differ-
ent states of the Gotar and Svear, which, however, by the 9th cent.
had become united, the Svear, or Swedes, being dominant.
The same poem refers to 'Norvegr' and 'Nordmenn', i.e. Norway
and the Northmen, but throws no light on their history. It
is, however, certain that the consolidation of Norway took place
xlvi XI. HISTORY.
much later tliaii that of Denmark and Sweden, and doubtless after
many severe struggles. To the mythical period must be relegated
the picturesque stories of the early Ynglingar kings, beginning
with Olaf Tro'telje, or the 'tree-hewer'; but they are probably not
withoutsome foundation in fact, and it is at any rate certain that the
migrations and piratical expeditions of the Northmen, which soon
affected the whole of the north of Europe, began about this time
(7th-8th cent. A. P.). The predatory campaigns of the Danish King
Hugleikr, which are mentioned both in the Beowulf and by Prankish
chroniclers, are doubtless a type of the enterprises of the vikings
(see p. xxxvi), which continued down to the 11th century. The
Swedes directed their attacks mainly against Finland, Kurland,
Esthonia, and Russia, which last derived its name and its political
organisation from Sweden ; the Danes undertook expeditions against
France and England, and the Norwegians chiefly against the north
of England, Scotland, tlic Orkney and Shetland Islands, and the
llcbrides,
Norway before the Tliiion.
From the semi-mythical Ynglingar and Olaf Trjetelje, who is
said to have flourished about the middle of the 7th cent., Halfdan
Svarte, king of a part of Norway corresponding with the present
Stift of Christiania, professed to trace his descent. His son Harald
Haarfager ('fair-haired'), after several severe conflicts, succeeded
in uniting the whole of Norway under his sceptre after the deci-
sive battle of the Hafrsfjord near Stavanger in 872. The final
consolidation of the kingdom, however, was not effected until a
century later. The kingdom was repeatedly attacked by the petty
kings who had been banished, while great numbers of the peas-
antry, to escape the burdens of taxation, emigrated to the Orkney
and Shetland Islands, to Iceland, and even to the Hebrides. In
this weakened condition Harald transmitted the crown to his fa-
vourite son Eirfkr Blodox. whose exploits as a viking had gained for
him the sobriquet of 'bloody axe'. After having slain several of
his brothers, Eric was expelled about the year 935 by Haakon the
Good, who in his turn was defeated and slain by Eric's sons at
the battle of Fitjar in 961. Among the sons of Eric, several of
whom were put to death by their own subjects, the most distin-
guished was //an//;/ Graafeld, who was, however, at length defeated
by the Jarl (earl) of Lade in the district of Trondhjem, with the
aid of Harald Gormsson, King of Denmark (970). At this period
a number of petty kings still maintained themselves on the fjords
and in the interior of the country, trusting for support from the
kings of Sweden and Denmark. The Jarls of Lade, who ruled
over Trondhjem , Helgeland , Namdalen , and Nordmere, acknow-
ledged the supremacy of the kings of Norway, until Haakon Jarl
transferred his allegiance to the kings of Denmark. On the out-
break of war between Denmark and Germany he succeeded in
XI. HISTORY. xlvii
throwing off tlie Danish yoke, but did not assume the title of
king. Haakon was at length slain hy one of his own slaves during
an insurrection of the peasantry (995), whereupon Olaf Trygg-
vason , a descendant of Haarfager, obtained possession of tl\e
kingdom, together with the fjords and inland territory which had
belonged to Haakon. With the accession of Olaf begins a new
era in the history of Norw9,y.
In the 10th century Paganism in the north was in a moribund
condition. Based on the dual system of a world of gods (Asgardr,
Godheimr) and a realm of giants (Vtgardr, Jotunhelmr), it regarded
mankind (Midgardr, Mnnnheimr) as a kind of object of contention
between the two. All alike partook equally of the joys and sorrows
of life, of sin, and even of death. The period of the vikings,
however, to the close of which we owe the Eddas, materially altered
the tenets of the old religion. As victory was their great object,
they elevated Odin, the god of victory, to the highest rank in
their pantheon, while That, the god of thunder, had hitherto
reigned supreme. The bards depict in glowing colours the halls
of Odin, which become the abode of heroes slain in war. But as
the gods had been in many respects lowered to the rank of men,
and were themselves believed to have their destinies swayed by
fate , it necessarily followed that they were not themselves the
Creators, but at most the intermediate artificers and administrators
of earth. They therefore failed to satisfy the religious wants of
men, who began to speculate as to the true and ultimate Creator
of the universe, and it was about this period that Christianity
began to dawn on the benighted north. The vikings came into
frequent contact with Christian nations, and Christian slaves were
frequently brought to Norway and Sweden. Many of the Northmen
professed to be converted , but either retained many of their old
superstitions or speedily relapsed into them. A few, however,
embraced the new religion zealously , and it is to them that the
final conversion of the peninsula was due. The first Christian
monarch was Haakon the Good, who had been brought up by King
Athelstanc in England, and been baptised there; but his attempts
to convert his people were violently opposed and met with no success.
The sons of Eric, who had also been converted in England, showed
little zeal for Christianity, and under Haakon Jarl heathenism
was again in the ascendant. At length when Olaf Tryggvason,
who had also become a Christian, ascended the throne, he brought
missionaries from England and Germany to Norway and succeed-
ed in evangelising Norway, Iceland, the Orkney and Shetland
Islands, and the Faroes, partly by persuasion, and partly by inti-
Tuidation or by bribery. Iceland, however, had already been partly
converted by Thorvaldr Vidfcirli , a native missionary, aided by
the German bishop Friedrich.
King Svejn Tue^fccpgr ('double beard'} of Denmark now attempt-
xlviii XI. HISTORY.
ed to re-establish the Danish supremacy over Norway , and for
this purpose allied himself with his stepson King Olaf, Skot-
konung or tributary king of Sweden , and with Eric, the son of
Haakon, by whose allied fleets Olaf Tryggvason was defeated and
slain in the great naval battle of Svold, on the coast of Pomerania,
about the year 1000. Norway was now partitioned between the
kings of Denmark and Sweden, who ceded most of their rights to
the Jarls Eric and Svejn, sons of Haakon Ladejarl. The kingdom,
liowever , was soon permanently re-united by St. Olaf, son of
Harald Orenski , and a descendant of Harald Haarfager. After
having been engaged in several warlike expeditions, and having
been baptised either in England or in Normandy , he returned
to Norway in 1014 to assert his claim to the crown. Aided by
his stepfather Sigurd Syr, King of Ringerike, and by others of the
minor inland Kings, he succeeded in establishing his authority
throughout tlie whole country, and thereupon set himself energet-
ically to consolidate and evangelise his kingdom. His severity,
however, caused much discontent, and his adversaries were sup-
ported by Canute, King of England and Denmark, who still
asserted his claim to Norway. Canute at length invaded Nor-
way and was proclaimed king, while Olaf was compelled to seek an
asylum in Russia (1028). Having returned with a few followers to
regain his crown , he was defeated and slain at Stiklestad near
Levauger on 29th July, 1030. Canute's triumph, however, was
of brief duration. He ceded the reins of government to Haakon
Jarl Erikssen, and after the death of the jarl to his son Svejn and
the English princess Aelgifu , the mother of the latter; but a
reaction speedily set in, stimulated chiefly by the rumour of Olaf's
sanctity, which found ready credence and was formally declared
by a national assembly. Olaf's son Magnus, who had been left by
his father in Russia, was now called to the throne, and Svejn was
obliged to flee to Denmark (1035). The sway of Magnus was at
first harsh, but he afterwards succeeded in earning for himself the
title of 'the good'. In accordance with a treaty with Hardlcanute
in 1038, he ascended the throne of Denmark after the Danish
monarch's death in 1042, but his right was disputed by Svend
Estridssen. In 1046 he assumed as co-regent the turbulent Harald
Sigurdssen, step-brother of St. Olaf, who succeeded him on his
death in 1047. After a series of violent conflicts with Svend,
Harald was obliged to renounce his pretensions to the crown of
Denmark, but on Harald's death at the Battle of Hastings (1066)
the hostilities between Norway and Denmark broke out anew.
Harald was succeeded by Olaf Haraldssan, who in 1068 entered
into a new treaty with Svend of Denmark at Kongshelle, whereby
the independence of Norway was finally established.
Olaf, who was surnamed Hinn Kyrri, or 'the peaceful', now
devoted his attention to the internal organisation of his kingdom,
XI. HISTORY. xlix
and several of the Norwegian towns began to attain importance.
Skfringssalr (near Laurvik) and the neighbouring T^nsberg already
existed; Nidaros (afterwards Trondhjem) is said to have been
founded by Olaf Tryggvason, Sarpsborg by St. Olaf, and Oslo by
Harald Hardraade; but the foundation of Bergen and several other
towns, probably including Stavanger, is attributed to Olaf Kyrri.
His court was famed for its magnificence and the number of its
dignitaries, and at the same time he zealously promoted the in-
terests of the church. AVliile Olaf's predecessors had employed
missionaries, chiefly English, for the conversion of their subjects,
he proceeded to establish three native bishoprics and to erect
cathedrals at Nidaros, Bergen, and Oslo, making the dioceses as
far as possible co-extensive with the three provinces in which
national diets (Thing) were held. His warlike son Magnus Barfod
(1093-1103), so surnamed from the dress of the Scottish Highland-
ers which he had adopted , did not reign long enough seriously
to interrupt the peaceful progress of his country , and the three
sons of Magnus, 0xjstein (d. 1122), Sigurd (d. 1130), and Olaf
(d. 1115), thereafter proceeded to carry out the plans of their
grandfather. Sigurd was surnamed Jorsalafarer ('Jerusalem farer')
from his participation in one of the Crusades (1107-11). The
same devotion to the church also led about this period to the
foundation of the bishopric of Stavanger, and of several mon-
asteries (those of Saeler in the Nordfjord, Nidarholm near Trond-
hjem, Munkelif at Bergen, and Gimse near Skien), and to the in-
troduction of the compulsory payment of tithes [Tiende, 'tenths',
known in Scotland as 'teinds'), a measure which secured indepen-
dence to the church. King 0ystein is said to have been versed
in law , and both he and several of his predecessors have been
extolled as lawgivers, but no distinct trace of legislation in Nor-
way of a period earlier than the beginning of the 12th cent, has
been handed down to us.
After Sigurd's death the succession to the throne was disputed
by several claimants , as , in accordance with the custom of the
country, all relations in equal propinquity to the deceased,
whether legitimate or not, enjoyed equal rights. The confusion
was farther aggravated by the introduction (in 1129) of the custom
of compelling claimants whose legitimacy was challenged to un-
dergo the 'iron ordeal', the practical result of which was to pave
the way for the pretensions of adventurers of all kinds. Conflicts
thus arose between Harald Gilli, a natural son of Magnus Barefoot,
and Magnus Sigurdssen; 'batwecn Sigurd Slembcdegn, who claimed
to be a brother of Harald , and Ingi and Sigurd Munn, sons of
Harald ; and afterwards between Ingi and Haakon Herdebred, a
son of Sigurd Munn. All these pretenders to the throne perished
in the course of this civil war. Ingi was defeated and slain by
Haakon in 1161, whereupon his partisans elected as their king
Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit, ^
1 XI. HISTORY.
Magnus Erlingss0n,yho vr&s the son oi a daughter of Sigurd Jorsala-
farer. Haakon in his turn having fallen in battle, his adherents
endeavoured to find a successor, hut Erling, the father of Magnus,
wlvose title was defective, succeeded in obtaining the support of
Denmark by the cession of Vigen, and also that of the church.
Meanwhile the church had firmly established her power in the
north. At first the sees of Sweden and Norway had been under
the jurisdiction of the archbishops of Hamburg and Bremen , but
in 1103 an arch i episcopal see was erected at Lund in Skane. The
Norwegians, however , desiring an archbishop of their own , Pope
Eugene 11. sent Cardinal Nicholas Breakespeare to Norway for the
purpose of erecting a new archbishopric there , and at the same
time a fifth bishopric was erected at Hamar. The new archbish-
op's jurisdiction also extended over the sees of Iceland , Green-
land, the Faroes, the Orkneys, the Hebrides, and the Isle of Man,
and his headquarters were established at Trondhjem. In 1164
Erling Jarl induced Archbishop Eystein to crown his son Magnus,
a (ceremony which had never yet taken place in Norway, and at
the same time he engaged to make large concessions to the church,
including a right to a voice in the election of future kings.
Supported by the church, personally popular, and a meritorious
administrator, Magnus had at first no difficulty in maintaining
his position, but his title and the high privileges he had accorded
to the church did not long remain unchallenged.
After several insurrections against Magnus had been quelled,
there arose the formidable party of the Birkebeiner ('birch-legs', so
called from the bark of the birch which they used to protect their
feet), who in 1177 chose as their chief Sverre, a natural son of
Sigurd Munn, who had been brought up as a priest, and who soon
distinguished himself by his energy and prudence. In 1179 Erling
was defeated and slain by Sverre at Nidaros, and in 1184 his son
Magnus met the same fate in the naval battle of Fimreite in the Sogn
district. Sverre's right to the crown , however, was immediately
challenged by new pretenders, and he incurred the bitter hostility
of the church by ignoring the concessions granted to it by Magnus.
In 1190 Archbishop Eric, Eystein's successor, fled the country, and
the king and his followers were excommunicated ; but , though
severely harassed by several hostile parties, particularly the Bagler
(the episcopal party, from Baya^i, 'baculus', a pastoral staff), Sverre
died unconquered in 1202. He was succeeded by his son Haakon
(d. 1204), by Guttorm Sigurdssen (d. 1204), and by Inge Baardssen
(d. 1217), under whom the hostilities with the church still con-
tinued. For a time, however, peace was re-established by Haakon
Haakouss«rn (1217-63), a grandson of Sverre, under whom Norway
attained a high degree of prosperity. His father-in-law Skule Jarl,
brother of King Inge, on whom he conferred the title of duke, proved
his most serious opponent, but on the death of tlie duke in 1240 the
XI. HISTORY. li
civil wars at length ternuiiated. New rights were soon afterwards
conferred on the church, but of a less important character than those
bestowed by Magnus Erlingssen, the clergy being now excluded
from a share in the election of kings. The king also amended the
laws and sought to extend his territory. Since the first colonisa-
tion of Iceland (874-930) the island had been independent , but
shortly before his death Haakon persuaded the natives to acknow-
ledge his supremacy. In 1261 he also annexed Greenland, Avhich
had been colonised by Icelanders in the lOtli cent, and previous-
ly enjoyed independence, so that, nominally at least, his sway
now extended over all the dioceses subject to the see of Trond-
lijem, including the Orkney and Shetland Islands, the Faroes, the
Hebrides, and the Isle of Man. His claim to the Hebrides being
disputed by Alexander III. of Scotland, he assembled a fleet for the
purpose of asserting it, and set sail for the Orkney Islands, where
he died in 1263. He was succeeded by his son Magnus Lagaheter
( 'betterer of laws'), who by the treaty of Perth in 1266 renounced
his claims to the Hebrides and Man in return for a small payment
from Alexander. In his reign, too, the Swedish frontier, long a
subject of dispute, was clearly defined, and the relations between
church and state were placed on a more satisfactory footing.
Constitution. From an early period Norway was divided into
four large districts, each presided over by a Thing or Lagthing
(Legthing), a diet with judicial and legislative functions. The
eight Fylker or provinces of Trondhjem sent representatives to
the Frostuthing, so named from Frosten, the meeting-place of the
diet, and to these were afterwards MldeA Ilelgeland , Namdnlen,
Nordmere, and Romsdalen. The Gulathing, in the Fylke of Gulen,
embraced the Fylker of Firda, Sygna, and Herdn, to which Roga-
land, Agder, and Sondmere were afterwards added. The district
of Vigen appears to have had a Thing of its own , which after the
time of St. Olaf met at Sarpsborg and was called the Borgarthing ;
but from the 12tli cent, onwards represeiitatives were sent to this
diet by Ranrfki , Vingulmerk , Vestvold , and Grenafylke also.
Lastly the mountain-districts of Heina, Hada, and Rauma held a
diet called the HeidsiTvhthing, afterwards named the Eidsifnthing
from Eidsvold wlicrc it assembled. This diet, though separate
from that of Vigen, was under the same law, which had been de-
clared common to both by St. Olaf. A committee of each diet,
called the Legreltn, chosen by the king's officers, performed the
judicial duties of the diet, while the Legthing itself exercised
jurisdiction over the diets held at irregular intervals in the differ-
ent Fylker. Resolutions were passed by a majority of the peas-
antry at the diet. The four cities of Trondhjem, Bergen, Tens-
berg, and Oslo eacli possessed a distinct Ltrgthing, the law ad-
ministered by which was called 'Rjarkeyjarrettr'.
King Magnus proceeded to abolish these diets (in 1267 and
d*
lii XI. HISTORY.
1268), but was prevented from finally accomplishing his object
by the protest of Archbishop Jon Raudi at the diet of Fiosten
(1269). He then directed his attention to tlie amendment of the
laws. In 1271 a code called Jdrnsida ('iron side') was completed,
and in 1272-74 a new code was promulgated at the Frostuthing,
which seems to have been immediately adopted by the other
districts. In 1276 a new municipal law was introduced at Bergen
and soon afterwards into the other towns also ; and lastly the
J6nsh6k, a collection of the laws of the mainland , was compiled
in 1280 and promulgated in Iceland. From these codes ecclesias-
tical law was excluded. Though each of them bears a distinctive
name, such as 'Law of the Frostuthing', 'Town Laws of Bergen',
etc., and is somewhat modified to suit the requirements of the
district or town which adopted it, they substantially formed a
single code for the whole liingdom. The whole country was now
subject to the jurisdiction of the four diets, with the exception of
Helgeland, Jemtlancl, and Herjedalen , which still formed inde-
pendent districts. Meanwhile King Magnus concluded a Concordat
with the church at Bergen in 1273 and another at Ti^nsberg in
1277, and at the same time sanctioned an ecclesiastical code
drawn up by Archbishop Jon , wherein he renounced all control
over ecclesiastical causes and over the election of prelates. An-
other interesting code of this period was the Hirdskraa ('law of
servants', probably 1274-77), which affords an insight into the
early condition of Norway.
Magnus Lagabeter died in 1280 and was followed by his son
Eric Magnuss^n (d. 1299), who was succeeded by his brother
Haakon Magnussen (d. 1319). Under these monarchs the con-
cessions of Magnus to the church formed the subject of constant
dispute, and it was not till 1458 that they were finally secured
to the hierarchy by Christian IV. In their secular administration,
however, the sons of Magnus experienced less difficulty. At first
the functions of the Legthing or diets had been deliberative, judi-
cial, and legislative, and those of the king executive only, but the
constitution gradually assumed a more monarchical form. The
first step was to transfer the judicial powers of the diets to offi-
cials appointed by the king himself. The Legmenn ('lawyers')
had originally been skilled assessors at the diets , elected and
^aid by the peasantry, but from the 13th cent, onwards it was
customary for the king to appoint them, and they became the sole
judges of all suits in the first instance. In the second or higher
instance the diet was still nominally the judge, but it was
presided over by theLegmann and attended by others of the king's
officials. The king himself also asserted a right to decide cases in
the last instance, with the aid of a 'council of the wisest men'.
The four ancient diets were thus in the course of time transformed
into ten or twelve minor diets, presided over by Legmenn.
XI. HISTORY. liii
At the same time great changes in tlie social and political
system were effected. In accordance with the old feudal system,
it had been customary for the kings to hestow temporary and re-
vocable grants of land ('Veitsla', probably from veiUa, 'to bestow')
on their retainers and courtiers ('Hird'), on the understanding
that the tenants ('Huskarlar') would administer justice , collect
the taxes, and render military and other services. In some cases,
too, a Jarl was appointed governor of a considerable district and
invested with extensive powers and practical independence, and
it was usual for the king to coniirm the heirs of these officials and
dignitaries in their respective lands and offl(jes. All these minor
jurisdictions, however, were abolished by Haakon Magnussen
(1308J, who directed that all his officials should in future be
under his own immediate control. Thus, by the beginning of the
14th cent., the Norwegian monarchs had attained a position of
great independence, and had emancipated themselves alike from
democratic and from aristocratic interference. The peasantry,
however, always enjoyed greater freedom than in most other Euro-
pean countries, and possessed their lands in freehold, being them-
selves lords of a great part of their native soil ; but they never
attained to much wealth or importance, as the trade of the country
from a very early period was monopolised by Germans and other
foreigners. Of scarcely greater Importance was the nobility of the
country, their lack of influence being due to want of organisation
and political coherence.
The Intellectual Culture of Norway during this period, as may
be supposed , made no great progress. The Runic character had
indeed been in use from the early Iron Period downwards , but it
was merely employed for short inscriptions and rude registers of
various kinds, and not for literary purposes. On the foundation
of the archbishopric of Lund , the Latin character was at length
introduced, but before that period all traditions and communica-
tions were verbal, and it is mainly to the bards or minstrels
('Skald') that we owe the preservation of the ancient myth-
ical and historical sagas or 'sayings'. About the year 1190 the
Latin character began to be applied to the native tongue, both for
secular and religious purposes. Of the exceedingly rich 'Old
Northern' literature which now sprang up , it is a singular fact
that by far the greater part was written by Icelanders. Among
the most famous of these were ^Iri Fro'rfi (d. 1148), the father of
northern history ; Oddr Snorrason and Gunnlaugr Leifsson
(d. 1218), the biographers of King Olaf Tryggvason ; the prior
Styrmir Karason (A. 1245), the biographer of St. Olaf; the abbot
Karl J6nssnn (d. 1212), the biographer of King Sverre ; and lastly
Eirfkr Oddsson, Snorri Sturluson (A. 1241), und Sturla Thordarson
(d. 1284), who were both historians of the kings of Norway and
zealous collectors of their own island lore. The bards attached to
liv XI. HISTORY.
the Scandin avian courts were also generally Icelanders. To Nor-
wegian authorsliip are traceable comparatively few literary works,
the most important being juridical compilations, the 'King's
Mirror', which affords an insight into the court-life and commer-
cial transactions of the 13th cent., the 'Anekdoton Sverreri', a
polemic in favour of the crown against the church, several ballads
of the earlier Edda , and a number of romances translated from
English and French. This poverty of the literature of the main-
land is doubtless to be accounted for by the fact that it was con-
stantly harassed by wars and intestine troubles at this period,
while Iceland was in the enjoyment of peace. While, moreover,
in Norway the clergy held themselves aloof from the people and
from secular pursuits , and the nobles were busily engaged in
fashioning their titles, their manners, and their costumes on the
model of those of their more civilised neighbours , the Icelanders
of all classes retained their national coherence in a far higher
degree , all contributing with equal zeal to the patriotic task of
extolling their island and preserving its ancient traditions.
Sweden before the Union.
With regard to the early history of Sweden there exist no
chronicles similar to those of the Icelanders and Norwegians. It
is ascertained , however , that the country was partly evangelised
in the 9th cent, by Anskar(^A. 8G5) and other German missionaries,
and by his successor Rimbert (d. (S88). Archbishop Vnni after-
wards preached the Gospel in Sweden, where he died in 936, and
after the foundation of several bishoprics in Denmark about the
middle of the 10th cent., Sweden was visited by many other
German and Danish missionaries. The secular history of the
country is involved in much obscurity , from which, however, it
to some extent emerges when it comes into contact with that of
Norway. About the end of the 10th century Olaf Skolkonung
('tributary king') took part in the battle of Svold against Olaf of
Norway and in the subsequent dismemberment of that country.
He was afterwards compelled by his own peasantry to promise to
come to terms with St. Olaf, and on his failure was threatened
with deposition. He was then obliged to assume his son Onund
as co-regent, and had to make peace with Norway about the
year 1019. Olaf and Onund are said to have been the first Christ-
ian kings of Sweden. Onund was succeeded by his brother
Emund (d. 1056), the last of his royal house , on whose death
hostilities broke out between the Gotar, who were now inclined
in favour of Christianity and the more northern and less civilised
Svear, who were still sunk in paganism. Emund had been in-
different about religion , but his successor Slenkil Ragnvaldsson
was a zealous Christian and was keenly opposed by the Svear. On
the death of Stenkil about 1066 open war broke out between the
XI. HISTORY. Iv
Cbiistiau and the pagan parties. When liis successor Inge Sten-
fciisson (d. lll'J}, in wliose reign the arclibisliopric of Lund was
erected (1103), forbade lieatLen sacrifices, tlie Svear set up Ms
brotlier-in-law Blot-Sven as a rival king, but Inge and Ms nephews
and successors, Inge II. (d. about 1120) and Philip) (d. about 1130),
succeeded in maintaining their independence. These dissensions
greatly weakened the resources of the kingdom. Stenkilsson fought
successfully against Magnus Barfod of Norway and acquitted himself
honourably at Kongshelle (1101), but his successors often allowed
the Norwegians to invade their territory with impunity.
On the death of Philip, Magnus, a Danish prince, and grand-
son of Stenkilsson, assumed the title of king in Gotaland, but
was defeated and slain in 1134 by Sverker I., who had been elected
king two years previously. Sverker was next opposed by Eric
Jedvardsson, who was proclaimed king by the Svear, and on Sver-
ker's death in 1156 this Eric, commonly called the 'Ninth' and
surnamed the 'Saint', obtained undivided possession of the throne.
Eric, a zealous churchman, converted the temple of Upsala into a
Christian place of worship , and conquered and christianised
the S.W. part of Finland. In 1160 he was attacked and slain by
Magnus Henriksson, a Danish prince, who laid claim to the throne,
and who in the following year was defeated and slain by KarL
Sverkersson. The latter in his turn was slain by Eric Knutsson in
1167, and the contest between the rival houses of Sverker and
Eric lasted down to 1222. Eric died in 1195, his successor Sverker
Karlsson in 1210, and Jon Sverkersson , the son of the latter and
the last of his family, in 1222, whereupon Eric Laespe ('the lisp-
ing'), a son of Eric Knutsson, ascended the throne unopposed.
Meanwhile the Svear, or Swedes in the narrower sense , had been
converted to Christianity. The church was at first presided over
by missionary bishops only, but in the reign of Olaf Eriksson a
bishopric was erected at Skara, and under Stenkil another at
Sigtuna. Under King Sverker a bishop of Oster-Gutland was ap-
pointed, with his residence at Linkoping , one for the diocese of
Upper Sweden at Upsala, aivd others for Sodermanland and Vester-
manland at Strongniis and Vesteras, while several monasteries
were also founded. The primacy of Sweden was granted to Arch-
bishop Eskil of Lund by Hadrian IV. (Nicholas Breakespeare) about
the year 1154, but in 1163 was transferred to Stephanus, the newly
created Archbishop of Upsala.
Eric Lffispe, though respected by his subjects, was a weak
prince. Long before his time the Folkungar, a wealthy family of
Oster-Gotland, had gradually attained to great power, and Biryer
Brosal^A. 1202), a member of the family, had obtained the title
of Jarl or Duke of the Swedes and Gotlauders. From an early
period , moreover , intermarriages had taken place between the
Folkungar and the royal families of Sweden , Norway , and Den-
Ivi XI. HISTORY.
mark. lu 1230 au attempt to dethrone Eric was made Ly Knut
Jonsson, a distant cousin of Birger, but Knut was defeated and
slain in 1234, and liis son was executed as a rebel in 1248. The
position of the family, however, remained unaifected. Birger Jarl,
a nephew of Birger Brosa , married Ingeborg, the king's sister,
while Eric himself married a member of the Folkungar family
(1243). Birger now became the real ruler of Sweden, the terri-
tory of which he extended by new conquests in Finland. On the
death of Eric, the last scion of the house of St. Eric, without
issue in 1250, Valdemar, Birger's son, was proclaimed the success-
or of his uncle. During Birger's regency the country prospered,
but on his death, in 1266, hostilities broke out between his sons.
The weak and incapable Valdemar was dethroned by his brother
Magnus (1275), whose vigorous administration resembled that of
his father, and who maintained friendly relations with the Hanse-
atic League. He also distinguished himself as a lawgiver and an
upholder of order and justice, and earned for himself the surname
of Ladulas ('barn-lock', i.e. vindicator of the rights of the
peasantry).
In 1290 Magnus was succeeded by his son Birger Magnusson^
during whose minority the government was ably conducted by
Marshal Thorgils Knutsson , but serious quarrels afterwards broke
out between Magnus and his brothers, the dukes Eric and Valde-
mar. In 1304 the dukes were banished, and in 1306 the faithful
marshal was executed by the king's order. Soon afterwards,
however, the dukes returned and obtained possession of the king's
person. After several vicissitudes, peace was declared and the
kingdom divided among the brothers in 1310 and again in 1313. In
1318, however, the dukes were arrested, imprisoned, and cruelly
put to death by their brother's order, whereupon Birger himself
was dethroned and banished to Denmark (d. 1321). The following
year Magnus, the infant son of Duke Eric, was elected king
at the Mora Stones of Upsala (p. 355), while Magnus, Birger's
son, was taken prisoner and executed. The first attempts to unite
the Scandinavian kingdoms were made in the reign of Magnus
Eriksson.
The Constitution of Sweden at first resembled that of Norway.
The country was divided into districts, called Land, Falkland , or
Landskap , each of which was subdivided into Hundari ('hun-
dreds'), called in Gotland Haratft. Each 'Land' had its diet or
Thing, presided over by a Lagman, and each hundred had its
Harathsthing , whose president was called a _7)omar ('pronouncer
of dooms') or Hdrathshof thing . The Landsthing exercised delib-
erative and judicial functions, and each had its own code of laws.
Precedence among these diets was enjoyed by the Svea Thing or
that of Upper Sweden , at which , although the monarchy was
nominally hereditary, kings were first elected. After his election
XI. HISTORY. Ivii
each new king had to swear to observe the laws, and to proceed
on the 'Eriksgata', or a journey to the other diets, in order to
procure conflrniation of his title. Resolutions of the Svea Thing
were even binding on the king himself. As the provincial laws
differed , attempts to codify them were made in the 13th and at
the beginning of the 14th cent., but with the consolidation of
the kingdom these differences were gradually obliterated. The
chief difference between Sweden and Norway was the prepon-
derance of the aristocratic element in the former. From an early
period, moreover, it had been usual to hold diets composed of the
higher officials, the barons, prelates, and large landed proprietors,
and to these after the close of the 13th cent, were added the Lag-
menn. This aristocratic diet was farther enlarged by Magnus
Ladulas (1280), who admitted to it all knights willing to serve
liim in the field , conferring on them the same exemption from
taxation as that enjoyed by his courtiers and by the clergy. As
no one, however, in accordance with a law of 1285, could attend
these diets without a summons from the king himself, he retained
the real power in his own hands and reserved a right to alter the
laws with tlie advice of the diet. From an early period the Lag-
man and the Harathshofthing had been the sole judges in lawsuits,
and from the first half of the 14th cent, downwards they were
proposed by the people, but appointed by the king. At the same
time the king possessed a right of reviewing all judgments in the
last instance. No taxes could be exacted or troops levied without
the consent of the popular diets, and it therefore became custom-
ary as early as the 13th cent, for the kings to employ mercenary
troops. — The privileges of the church were well defined, but
loss extensive than in Norway. The payment of tithes was com-
pulsory, and in 1248 and 1250 the right to elect bishops was
vested in the chapters, while all the clergy were prohibited from
taking oaths of secular allegiance. At the same period the celibacy
of the clergy was declared compulsory. As early as 1200 the
clergy was declared amenable to the ecclesiastical jurisdiction
only , and in some cases the church-courts could even summon
laymen before them. r)n the other hand the supreme legislative
power in church matters still belonged to the state, and parishes
enjoyed the right of electing their pastor when no express right of
patronage existed. — In the latter half of the 13th cent, the dig-
nity of Jarl or earl was abolished, and the Drotsiite ('high steward'"),
Marsker ('marshal"), and Kanceler ('chancellor') now became the
chief officials of the crown. The rest of the aristocracy consisted
of the courtiers and royal vassals, the barons and knights ^7?/<7(iareJ,
the esquires (Sven af vapen, VitpnareJ, and even simple freemen
who were willing to render military service wlienever required.
Hetween all these and tlie peasantry there was a wide social gap.
The history of early Swedish Literature is well-nigh an ab-
Iviii XI. HISTORY.
solute blank. The oldest work handed down to us is a com-
pilation of the laws of West Gotland, dating from the beginning
of the 12th century. A few meagre historical writings in Latin,
a work concerning the 'Styrilse kununga ok hufdinga' (the rule of
kings and governors), and several translations of foreign romances
also belong to this period.
Transition to the Union.
On the death of Haakon Magnussen of Norway in 1319 without
male issue, he was succeeded by Magnus Eriksson, afterwards
called Magnus Smek ('the luxurious'), the son of his daughter
Ingeborg and the Swedish Duke Eric, and at that time a child of
three years. On the banishment of King Birger in 1319 Magnus
was also elected King of Sweden , so that the two crowns were
now united, but it was arranged that each country should retain
its own administration. The union, however, was not attended
with happy results. At first Sweden was prudently governed by
the regent Mats Ketilmundsson , and in 1332 the province of
Skaue, which had been pledged to the Swedish Marshal von Eber-
stein by Eric Menved and Christopher II. of Denmark (1318),
declared itself in favour of Magnus. The king, however, who
soon afterwards assumed the reins of government, and his queen
Blanche of Namur , were ruled by unworthy favourites and soon
forfeited the respect of their people. A disastrous fire at Trond-
hjem (1343), great inundations in the Guldal and Orkedal (1345),
and above all the plague which swept away about two-thirds of
the population (1349-50) aggravated the discontent of the Nor-
wegians, who in 1350 elected Haakon Magnusson, the minor son
of Magnus , regent of Norway, and in 1355 Haakon entered upon
his functions, the province of Yigen and Iceland alone being
reserved to his father. In Sweden Magnus consolidated the pro-
vincial laws and drew up a new municipal code in 1347, but here
too he was overtaken by many troubles. The aristocracy resented
his endeavours to restrain their excesses, the people were exas-
perated by the unsuccessful issue of his Russian campaigns (1348-
49, 1350-51), the plague intensified their dissatisfaction in 1350,
and lastly the king was excommunicated in 1358 on account of
his failure to pay debts due to the pope. Eric, the king's son,
took advantage of these troubles and assumed the title of king in
1356, but died in 1359. New disasters, however, soon followed.
In 1360 the Danes regained Skane and in 1361 they took posses-
sion of the islands of Oland and Gotland. In 1363 Haakon married
the princess Margaret, daughter of King Valdemar of Denmark,
then eleven years old, a union which gave great offence to the
Swedish nobles , who were farther exasperated by the reconcilia-
tion of Haakon with his father. Magnus now banished twenty-
four of his most obnoxious opponents, who proceeded to Mecklen-
XI. HISTORY. lix
burg and offered the crown to Albert, second son of the duke and
of Euphemia, a daughter of Duke Eric of Sweden.
Albert accordingly came to Sweden in 1363, and in 1365 Mag-
nus and Haakon were defeated at Gata, near Enkoping, where the
former was taken prisoner. In 1370-71 a rebellion in favour of
Magnus took place in Upper Sweden, and in 1471 Haakon invaded
the country with a Norwegian army, but peace was shortly after-
wards concluded, and Magnus set at liberty on payment of a heavy
ransom and on condition that he would not again lay claim to the
Swedish crown. The death of Magnus in 1374 finally extinguished
the hopes of those in favour of union. Albert was now compelled
to place himself under the guidance of the powerful aristocratic
party. In 1375 Bo Jonsson, the most powerful noble in Sweden,
was appointed Drost or regent. Meanwhile the Norwegian nobil-
ity under King Haakon had attained to considerable indepen-
dence, while in the towns the dominant party consisted entirely
of Germans, whose proceedings were often most oppressive and
tyrannical. Even in Sweden , in accordance with the municipal
code of Magnus Smek , one-half of the burgomasters and civic
authorities in every town was required to consist of Germans ;
and it may be here added that Albert chiefly owed his unpopularity
to his partiality for German favourites.
In 1375 Valdemar IV. of Denmark died without male issue, and
in the following year he was succeeded by OUif, son of his daughter
Margaret and Haakon, King of Norway. On the death of Haakon
in 1380, Olaf Haakonssen, his only son, acceded to the throne of
Norway also, thus uniting the crowns of Denmark and Norway.
Olaf's early death in 1387 dissolved this brief union, but
within a few weeks his mother Margaret was proclaimed regent
of Denmark, pending the election of a new king, while in Norway
Bhe was nominated regent in 1388 without any such limitation.
At the same time, as it was deemed necessary to elect a successor
to the throne from among the different competitors, the Norwegians
appointed Eric of Pomerania , Margaret's nephew , heir to the
crown, but under the condition that he should not ascend the throne
during Margaret's lifetime. On the death of Eo Jonsson (1386),
who had held two-thirds of Sweden in fief or in pledge, Albert's
quarrels with his magnates broke out afresh, whereupon the mal-
contents proclaimed Margaret regent of Sweden also (1388),
agreeing to accept the king whom she should nominate. Margaret
thereupon invaded Sweden and defeated Albert at Falkciping
(1389), taking him and his son prisoners. The war, however,
still continued , and it was at this period that the Vitalien
Brotherhood (1392) came into existence, originally deriving their
name ('victuallers') from their duty of supplying Stockholm with
provisions during the war. The city was at that time occupied
by the German aillierents of Albert, and these German 'victuallers'
Ix XI. HISTORY.
were in truth a band of lawless marauders and pirates. Peace
was at length declared in 1395, and King Albert set at liberty on
condition of his leaving the country. During the same year Eric
was elected King of Denmark, and in 1396 of Sweden also, so that
the three crowns were now united, and the three kingdoms ruled by
the same regent. The following year Eric was solemnly crowned
at Kalmar by a diet of the three nations. Lastly, in 1398, Mar-
garet gained possession of Stockholm , the last stronghold of the
German partisans of Albert. The union of the three kingdoms
thus effected by Margaret, who is sometimes called the 'Northern
Semiramis', lasted till the beginning of the 16th cent., when it
was dissolved by the secession of Sweden, but Norway and Den-
mark remained united down to the year 1814.
The Union.
Though nominally united and bound to make common cause
against all enemies, the three kingdoms jealously maintained their
respective forms of government. Margaret ruled over the three
(countries with wisdom and moderation, though harassed by many
difficulties, and on her death in 1412 King Eric assumed the reins
of government. Eric , whose queen was Philippa , daughter of
Henry IV. of England, was a weak, incompetent, and at the same
time a cruel prince. He wasted large sums of money in an at-
tempt to recover Sleswick from the Counts of Holstein, who held it
as a Danish flef, and who were supported by the Hanseatic League.
Meanwhile Bergen was twice plundered by the Germans (1428
and 1429), who now became masters of that city, and in Sweden
the people were most oppressively treated by Eric's German and
Danish officials. In 1435, after a disastrous quarrel of twenty-
three years, Eric was at length compelled to confirm the privileges
of the Hanseatic League and to leave the Counts of Holstein in
undisturbed possession of Sleswick. Exasperated by Eric's malad-
ministration, by the debasement of the coinage, and other griev-
ances, the Swedish peasantry, headed by Engelbrekt Engel-
brektsson, a wealthy proprietor of mines, rebelled in 1433 and
compelled Eric and his council to appoint Karl Knutsson regent
of the kingdom (1436), shortly after which Engelbrekt was assas-
sinated. In Norway also the oppressive sway of foreign officials
caused great discontent and gave rise to a rebellion in 1436. Eric
in despair retired to the island of Gotland, and in 1438 a number
of Danish and Swedish magnates assembled at Kalmar, where
they drew up a new treaty of union, but without affirming that
the three kingdoms were thenceforward to be ruled by one
monarch. Lastly, in Denmark also a rebellion broke out, chiefly,
however, against the nobility and the clergy, and the Danes were
therefore compelled to seek for a new king.
In 1439 Denmark and Sweden formally withdrew their alle-
XI. HISTORY. Ixi
glance from Eric, ami Christopher of Bavaria was elected in Lis
stead, being afterwards proclaimed King of Norway also (1442).
Eric spent ten years in Gotland, where he supported himself by
piracy, and ten years more in Pomerania, where he died in 1459.
The separate election and coronation of Christopher in the
three countries shows that their union had ceased to exist in more
than the name. The new king succeeded, however, in asserting
his authority in every part of his dominions, although not without
many sacrifices. In his reign Copenhagen was raised to the rank
of the capital of Denmark. His plans for the consolidation of his
power were cut short by his death in 1448, and the union was
again practically dissolved. The Swedes now proclaimed Karl
Knutsson king, while the Danes elected Christian of Oldenburg,
a nephew of the Duke of Holstein and Sleswick. In 1449 Christian
also succeeded by stratagem in procuring his election in Norway,
but Karl Knutsson was proclaimed king and crowned by the peas-
antry. The following year, however, Karl renounced his second
crown, and Christian was thereupon crowned at Trondhjem.
Karl having rendered himself obnoxious to the clergy and others
of his subjects in Sweden, Christian succeeded in supplanting him
here also, and he was crowned King of Sweden in 1457. In 1460
Christian next inherited the duchies of Holstein and Sleswick from
his uncle, but he was compelled to sign a charter declaring that
he would govern them by their own laws and not as part of Den-
mark. The government of this vast empire was a task to which
Christian proved unequal. Norway was plundered by Russians
and Karelians and grievously oppressed by the Hanseatic mer-
chants, who in 1455 slew Olaf Nilsson , governor of Bergen , and
the bishop of the town, and burned the monastery of Munkeliv
with impunity. In 1468 and 1469 he pledged the Orkney and
Shetland Islands to Scotland, and caused great discontent by the
introduction into Norway of Danish and German nobles, to whom
he granted extensive privileges. Sweden, too, groaned under heavy
taxation, and in 1464 recalled Karl Knutsson to the throne. He
was soon banished, but in 1467 recalled a third time, and in 1470
he died as King of Sweden. In 1471 Sten Sture, the Elder, a
nephew of Knutsson, and the guardian of his son, was appointed
administrator, and the same year Christian was defeated at Stock-
holm, after which he made no farther attempt to regain his author-
ity in Sweden. He died in 1481 and was succeeded in Denmark
by his son Hans, who was not recognised in Norway till 1483.
Sten Sture sought to delay his election in Sweden, but as he had
rendered himself unpopular by an unsuccessful campaign against
the Russians in Finland, Hans took the opportunity of invading
Sweden with a large army and succeeded in establishing his au-
thority (1497). The king having been signally defeated at Hem-
mingstadt in 1500 in the course of his attempt to subdue the
Ixii XI. HISTORY.
Ditiuarscliers, Sture was recalled, but Hans stLll retained Norway.
Sture died in 1503 and was succeeded by Svante Nielsson Sture
(d. 1512), whose successor was his son Sten Sture the Younger
(d. 1520).
King Hans died in 1513, and was succeeded in Denmark and
Norway by his son Christian II., whom the Swedes declined to
recognise. He was a man of considerable ability and learning,
but self-willed, passionate, and cruel. In Norway and Denmark
he effected several social reforms, protected the commercial, min-
ing, and fishing interests, and sought to restrict the privileges of
the Hanseatic merchants. Notwithstanding his strength of will,
Christian was ruled by Sigbrltt, a Dutchwoman, the mother of his
mistress Diiweke (d. 1517), even after the death of the latter, and
the hatred of the aristocracy for this woman, who treated them
with studied contempt, proved disastrous to Christian. In Swe-
den the family of Trolle had long been hostile to the Sture family,
and when Gustaf Trolle was created archbishop of Upsala in 1515
he invited the Danes to aid him in deposing the administrator.
Christian sent troops to the aid of the prelate, who was besieged
in his castle of Staket (p. 356), but the castle was taken and Trolle
deprived of his dignities and confined in a monastery. In 1518
Christian himself undertook a campaign against Sweden without
success , and perfidiously imprisoned Gustaf Eriksson Vasa and
other Swedish hostages who had been sent to him. A third cam-
paign in 1519 was more successful, and Sten Sture was defeated
and mortally wounded at Bogesund in West Gotland. The same
year Christian gained possession of Stockholm , but his atrocious
cruelty and injustice proved his ruin. After his coronation by
Trolle he permitted that prelate and two others to prosecute their
enemies before an arbitrarily formed ecclesiastical tribunal. They
were found guilty of heresy, and on 8th Nov., 1520, executed
along with several other persons. The 82 victims included two
bishops, 13 royal counsellors and knights, and Eric Johansson,
the father of Vasa. On the following day many similar executions
of so-called rebels and heretics took place in other parts of Sweden,
though on a smaller scale than the 'Blood Bath of Stockholm'.
The exasperation of the Swedes was aggravated by the impo-
sition of a new tax and an attempt to disarm the peasantry, and
the discontented populace soon found an able leader. This was
the famous Gustaf Vasa (probably so surnamed from vase, 'a beam',
which the fascine in his armorial bearings resembled), who had
been unjustly imprisoned by Christian, but escaped to Liibeck in
1519. In May, 1520, he returned to Sweden, and on hearing of
the death of his father at the Stockholm Blood Bath he betook
himself to Dalecarlia, where on former occasions Engelbrekt and
the Stures had been supported by the peasantry. The rising began
in 1521 and soon extended over the whole of Sweden. In August
XI. HISTORY. ixiii
of that year Gustavus was appointed administrator at Vadstena,
and in June, 1523, lie was proclaimed king at Strengniis.
Sweden tlius finally withdrew from the union, and Christian
soon afterwards lost his two other kingdoms. His favour to the
Reformation aroused the enmity of the church , and at the same
time he attacked the privileges of the nohility. From the tenor
of several provincial and municipal laws framed hy the king in
1521-22 it is ohvious that he proposed to counteract the influence
of the clergy and aristocracy by improving the condition of the
lower classes. Among several excellent provisions were the abol-
ition of compulsory celibacy in the church and a prohibition
against the sale of serfs. A war with the Liibeckers , who even
threatened Copenhagen (1522), next added to Christian's difficul-
ties, soon after which the Danes elected his uncle Frederick, Duke
of Sleswick-Holstein, as his successor and renounced their allegiance
to Christian. At length, after fruitless negociations, Christian
quitted Copenhagen in 1523 and sought an asylum in Holland.
Nine years later, after an unsuccessful attempt to regain his throne,
he was thrown into prison, where he languished for 27 years.
The condition of the Constitution during the union was far
from satisfactory. The union existed in little more than the name.
Each nation continued to be governed by its own laws, neither
the troops nor the revenue of one could be employed for the pur-
poses of either of the others, and no one could be summoned be-
fore any tribunal out of his own country. The supreme authority,
next to that of the king, was vested in his council, which con-
sisted of the prelates , a number of the superior clergy, and a
fluctuating number of nobles nominated by the king, but not
removable at his pleasure. In matters of importance the king
could only act with the consent of his counsellors, and they were
even entitled to use violence in opposing unauthorised measures.
Nominally the church continued to enjoy all its early privileges,
and the concessions made at Tensberg in 1277 were expressly
confirmed by Christian I. in 1458, but invasions of its rights were
not unfrequent, and with its increasing solicitude for temporal
power its hold over the people decreased. The church was most
powerful in Norway and least so in Sweden, while with the in-
fluence of the nobility the reverse was the case. In Sweden the
estates of the nobility enjoyed immunity from taxation, but Chris-
tian I. and his successors were obliged to relax this privilege.
The nobles also enjoyed jurisdiction over their peasantry, levying
fines and imposing punishments at discretion (1483). The Nor-
wegian nobles were less favoured ; they had no power of levying
fines from their tenantry, and their manor-houses (Stedegaarde)
alone were exempt from taxation. The position of the townspeople
and the peasantry in Sweden gradually improved , and in 1471
Sten Sture ordained that the municipal authorities should thence-
Ixiv XI. HISTORY.
forward consist of natives of tlie country instead of Germans. In
Norway, notwithstanding the opposition of several of the kings,
the Hanse merchants still held oppressive sway in the chief towns ;
but the peasantry were never, as in Denmark, subjected to serf-
dom and compulsory services. They were generally owners of the
soil they cultivated, while those who were merely tenants enjoyed
entire liberty and were not ascrlpti glebae as in many other coun-
tries. In Sweden the compulsory services exigible from the peas-
antry by the lord of the soil were limited in the 15th cent, to
(S-12 days, and those exigible by the king to 8 days. While this
class enjoyed less independence than in Norway, it attained polit-
ical importance and even admission to the supreme council at an
earlier period, owing to the Influence of Engelbrekt, the Stures,
and other popular chiefs.
During the union Literature made considerable progress in
Sweden, while in Norway it languished and became almost ex-
tinct. In both countries the education of the clergy continued to
be carried on in the monasteries and cathedral-schools, but towards
the close of this period universities were founded at t/p.sairt (1477)
and Copenhagen (1479), and gave rise to the publication of various
learned treatises in Latin. Among the religious works of this per-
iod may be mentioned the revelations of St. Birgitta (d. 1373)
and the 'Cronica Regni Gothorum' of Ericus Olai (d. 1486), both
showing a tendency towards the principles of the Reformation.
Whilst about the beginning of the 14th cent, the native literature
of Norway became extinct, that of Sweden began to increase,
consisting chiefly of religious writings, rhyming chronicles, ballads,
and compilations of laws. In Sweden, moreover, the national lan-
guage, though not without difficulty, held its own against the
Danish, while in Norway the 'Old Norsk' was gradually displaced
by the tongue of the dominant race, and continued to be spoken
in several impure and uncultured dialects by the peasantry alone.
Sweden after the Dissolution of the Kalmar TJnion.
The necessity of making common cause against Christian II.,
the deposed monarch of the three kingdoms, led to an alliance be-
tween Gustavus Vasa and Frederick I. of Denmark. Christian at-
tempted an invasion of Norway in 1531-32, but was taken pris-
oner, and after Frederick's death (1533) the Liibeckers made an
ineffectual attempt to restore the deposed king (1534-36). At
ho'me Gustavus also succeeded in consolidating his power. The
nobility had been much weakened by the cruel proceedings of
Christian, while the Reformation deprived the church both of its
power and its temporal possessions , most of which fell to the
crown. By the diet of Vesteras (1527) and the synod of Orebro
(1529) great changes in the tenure of church property and in eccle-
siastical dogmas and ritual were introduced, and in 1531 Lau-
XI. HISTORY. Ixv
rentius Petri became the first Protestant archbishop of Upsala.
Lastly, at another diet held at Vesteras (1544), the Roman Cath-
olio Church was declared abolished. At the same diet the succes-
sion to the throne was declared hereditary. Gustavus effected
many other wise reforms, but had to contend against several in-
surrections of the peasantry , caused partly by his ecclesiastical
innovations, and partly by the heaviness of the taxation imposed
for the support of his army and fleet. Shortly before his death (in
loOO), he unwisely bestowed dukedoms on his younger sons, a
step which laid the foundation for future troubles.
His eldest son Eric XIV. (the number being in accordance
with the computation of Johannes Magnus, but without the slight-
est historical foundation) soon quarrelled with his younger brother
John, Duke of Finland, whom he kept imprisoned for four years.
He was ruled by au unworthy favourite, named Goran Persson,
and committed many acts of violence and cruelty. He persuadeil
his brother Duke Magnus to sign John's death-warrant, whereupon
Magnus became insane. After the failure of several matrimonial
schemes, of one of which Queen Elizabeth of England was the
object, and after several outbursts of insanity, Eric married his
mistress Katharine Mansdatter (1567). The following year he was
deposed by his brother, who ascended the throne as John III.,
and after a cruel captivity of nine years was poisoned by his order
in 1577 (see p. 378). John ingratiated himself with the nobility
by rich grants of hereditary fiefs, and he concluded the peace at
Stettin which terminated a seven years' war in the north (1563-70)
and definitively severed Sweden from Denmark and Norway. Less
successful was his war against Ilussia for the purpose of securing
to Sweden the province of Estlionia, but the province was after-
wards secured to his successor by the Peace of Tensina (1595).
John was married to a Polish princess and betrayed a leaning to-
wards the Romish clmrcli wliidi much displeased his subjects.
After his death (1502) the religions difficulty became more serious,
as his son and successor Sigismund had been brought up as a Ro-
man Catholic in Poland, where he had been proclaimed king in
1587. Duke Charles of Sodcrmanland, the youngest son of Gus-
tavus Vasa, thereupon assumed the regency on behalf of the ab-
sent Sigismund , caused the Augsburg Confession to be pro-
claimed anew by a synod at Upsala (1593), and abolished Romish
practices iTitroduced by John. After confirming these proceedings,
Sigismund was crowned in 159' ; but on his failure to keep his
promises, his uncle was recalled to the regency (1595), and when
Sigismund Invaded Sweden in 1598 he was defeated by Charles
and compelled to enter into a compromise at Llnkciping. Again
breaking faith, he was formally deposed (1599), while Charles
was appointed regent for life. After having prosecuted Sigis-
mund's adherents wltli great harshness, and succeeded in prevent-
1!ahi>kkku's Ni)i-way ami Swoil.n. 8th Kilit. e
Ixvi XI. HISTORY.
ing the recognition of Ladisl.aus, Sigismund's son. Charles IX.,
assumed the title of king in 1604. His administration was bene-
ficial to the country, and he was a zealous promoter of conimerce,
mining, and agriculture, but his wars with Russia and Denmark,
which were unflnished at his death (IGll), caused much misery.
His son and successor was Gustaous II. , better known as
Gustavus Adolphus, the most able and famous of the Swedish
kings. Though seventeen years of age only , he was at once de-
clared major by the Estates. In 1(313 he terminated the 'Kalmar
War' with Denmark by the Peace of Knlirod , and in 1G17 that
with Russia by the Peace of Stolbova , Avhich secured Kexholm,
Karelen, and Ingermanland to Sweden. By the Treaty of Altmark
in 1629 he obtained from Poland the cession of Livonia and four
Prussian seaports for six. years. At the same time he bestowed
much attention on his home affairs. With the aid of his chancellor
and friend Axel Oxenstjerna he passed codes of judicial procedure
and founded a supreme court at Stockholm (1614-15), and afterwards
erected appeal-courts at Abo, Dorpat, and Jiinkoping. In 1617 he
re-organised the national assembly, dividing it into the four estates
of Nobles, Clergy, Burghers, and Peasants, and giving it the sole
power of passing laws and levying taxes. He founded several new
towns, favoured the mining and commercial industries, extended
the university of Upsala, and established another at Dorpat. At
the same time he strengthened his army and navy, which he soon
had occasion to use. In 1630 lie went to Germany to support the
Protestant cause in the Thirty Years' War, and after several bril-
liant victories and a glorious career, which raised Sweden to the
proudest position she has ever occupied in history, he fell on 6th
Nov., 1632, at the Battle of Lutzen. The war was continued under
his daughter and successor Christina, under the able regency of
Oxenstjerna. In 1635, by another treaty with Poland, Livonia
was secured to Sweden for 26 years more. War broke out with Den-
mark in 1643, but was terminated by the Peace of Bromsebro
in 1645. At length, in 1648, the Thirty Years' War was ended by
the Peace of Westphalia. These treaties secured to Sweden Jemt-
land and Herjedalen, the island of Gotland, the principalities of
Bremen and Verden, part of Pomerania with Stettin and the is-
lands of Riigen, Usedom, and Wollin, and the town of Wismar,
besides a considerable Avar indemnity and other advantages. Dur-
ing the regency it was arranged that the royal council or cabinet
should consist of representatives of the supreme court of appeal,
the council of war, the admiralty, the ministry of the interior,
and the exchequer, presided over by the chief ministers of each
department. The country was divided into 23 Lane and 14 Lay-
sagor, govevneAhy Land shnfdinge awA Layman respectively, which
officials were to be appointed from the nobility. For these and many
other reforms and useful institutions the country was indebted
XI. HISTORY. Ixvii
to the energy and eulightenmeiit of Oxenstjerna. On the other
liand, in order to All the empty uoffers of the state , it was found
necessary to sell many of the crown-domains, and to levy new
taxes, and the evil was aggravated by the lavish extravagance
of Christina and her favourites. Refusing to marry, and being
unable to redress the grievances of her justly disaffected sub-
jects, the queen in 1649 procured the election of Charles Gustarus
or Charles X., son of the Count Palatine John Casimir of Zwei-
briicken and a sister of Gustavus Adolphus, as her successor. By
her desire he was crowned in 1654, whereupon she abdicated,
quitted Sweden, and embraced the Romish faith. She terminated
her eccentric career at Rome in 1689. Her successor endeavoured
to practise economy, and in 1650 obtained the sanction of the
Estates to revoke her alienations of crown-property. War, however,
interfered with his plans. John Casimir, King of Poland, son of
Sigismund , now claimed the throne of Sweden , and compelled
Charles to declare war against him (1655). After a time Russia,
Austria, and Denmark espoused the cause of Poland, but Charles
succeeded in gaining possession of Jutland and the Danish islands,
and the Peace of Roskilde (1658) secured to him Skane, Halland,
and Blekinge , but obliged him to cede the districts of Bohus
and Trondhjem to Norway. On a renewal of the war with Den-
mark the Danes were aided by the Dutch, Brandenburgers, Poles,
and Austrians, who forced Charles to raise the siege of Copenhagen,
and on his sudden death in 1662 the Peace of Copenhagen was
concluded, whereby the island of Bornholui was lost to Sweden.
Charles X. was succeeded by his son Charles XI. , a boy of
four years, whose guardians endeavoured to make peace with
foreign enemies. By the Peace of Oliva with Poland , Branden-
burg, and Austria in 1660 the King of Poland finally ceded Li-
vonia to Sweden and renounced his claim to the throne of Sweden,
and by the Peace of Kardis with Russia in 1661 the Swedish con-
quests in Esihonia and Livonia were restored to Sweden ; but
little was done to remedy the internal disorders of the country,
t >ne of the few events worthy of record at this period was the
foundation of the university of Lund in 1668. Meanwhile the
excesses and arrogance of the nobility, the squandering of the
crown-revenues, and the imposition of heavy taxes threatened to
ruin the country, and the regency even accepted subsidies from
foreign countries and hired out troops to serve abroad. At the
age of seventeen Charles assumed the reins of government (167'2).
In 1674 he was called upon as the ally of France to take part in
the war against Holland, Spain, and Germany, but the Swedish
army was signally defeated at Fehrbellin by the Elector of Bran-
denburg. Hereupon the Danes declared war against Sweden,
causing new disasters, but by the intervention of the French
peace was again decilared at Lund in 1679. Tiie distress occasioned
Ixviii XI. HISTORY.
by these defeats and popular indignation against the nohility,
■who were now in possession of ftve-sevenths of the land in Swe-
den, and who did their utmost to reduce the peasantry to the con-
dition of mere serfs, eventually served greatly to strengthen the
king's position. At the diet of Stocliholm in 1680, after stormy
debates, it was determined to call the regency to account for their
gross mismanagement of affairs , and the king was empowered to
revoke the alienations made during his minority. The king was
told tliat he was not bound to consult his cabinet, but to obey the
laws, and that he was responsible to God alone. Another diet
(1682) entrusted the king with the sole legislative power, merely
expressing a hope that he would graciously consult the Estates.
Charles was thus declared an absolute monarch , the sole right
reserved to the diet being that of levying taxes. The king there-
upon exacted large payments from his former guardians and exer-
cised his right of revocation so rigidly, that he obtained possession
of about one-third of the landed estates in Sweden. The money
thus acquired he employed in paying the debts of the crown , in
re-organising his army and fleet, and for other useful purposes,
while he proceeded to amend the law and to remedy ecclesiastical
abuses. On his death, in 1697, he left his kingdom in a strong and
prosperous condition, and highly respected among nations.
Under Charles XII., the son and successor of Charles XI., this
absolutism was fraught with disastrous consequences. Able, care-
fully educated, energetic, and conscientious, but self-willed and
eccentric, Charles was called to the throne at the age of fifteen
and at once declared major. In 1699 Denmark, Russia, and Poland
concluded an alliance against Sweden , which led to the great
northern war. Aided by England, Holland, and the Duke of
Gottorp and Hanover , Charles speedily compelled the Danes to
conclude the Peace of Travendal (1700), defeated the Russians
at Narva, took Curland from the Poles (1701), and forced Elector
Augustus of Saxony to make peace at AltranstJidt , whereby the
elector was obliged to renounce the Polish crown. Meanwhile
Peter the Great of Russia had gained possession of Kexholni,
Ingermanland , and Esthonia. Instead of attempting to regain
these provinces, Charles , tempted by a promise of help from Ma-
zeppa, a Cossack chief, determined to attack the enemy in an-
other quarter and marched into the Ukraine, but was signally
defeated by the Russians at Pultava (1709), and lost nearly the
whole of his army. He escaped into Turkey, where he was hospi-
tably received by the Sultan Achmed III. and supplied with
money. Here he resided at Bender, and induced the Sultan to
make war against Russia ; but when the grand-vizier had defeated
the Czar, he was bribed by Katherine, the courageous wife of Peter,
to allow him to escape. This exasperated Charles and led to a
quarrel with the Sviltan , who placed him in confinement. Mean-
XI. HISTORY. Ixix
wliilc Denmark and Saxony again declared ^var against Sweden.
Skane was guccessl'uUy defended against the Danes , but Elector
Angustus reconquered Poland , and the Czar took possession of
I'Mnland. The resources of Sweden were now exhausted, and the
higher nobility began to plot against the king. At length Charles
effected his escape and returned to Sweden (1715), to find that
England, Hanover, and Prussia had also declared war against him
owing to differences regarding Stettin and the principalities of
r.renien and Verden. Having succeeded with the utmost difficulty
in raising money, Charles now invaded Norway with an army of
raw recruits and laid siege to Fredrikshald , where he fell at the
early age of thirty-six (1718), just at the time when his favourite
minister Gortz was about to conclude a favourable peace with
Ivussia. Brave, chivalrous, and at the same time simple in his
manners and irreproachable in conduct, the memory of Charles
is still fondly cherished by the Swedes. The short reign of abso-
lutism ( En I- al (hi id en) was now at an end, and we reach a period
of greater independence [Frihetsliden ; 1719-9'2).
Charles XII. was succeeded by his sister Ulrika Eleonora, who
with the consent of the Estates resigned in favour of her husband
Frederick I. , crown-prince of Hesse-Cassel. At the same time
( 17'20) a new constitution was framed by the Estates. The supreme
l)()wer was vested in the Estates, a privy council consisting of
members of the three upper chambers, and a cabinet of nine
members of the privy council, three from each estate, to be nom-
inated by the king himself. The king's authority was limited to
two votes at the diet and a casting vote in case of an equally
divided assembly, and the cabinet was declared responsible to
the diet. In 1719 peace was concluded with England , upon tlic
fihandoTiment of Bremen and Verden, and in 1720 with Prussia,
to which Stettin and part of Pomerania were ceded; then with
Poland and Denmark ; and in 1721 with Russia, to which Li-
vonia, Esthonia, Ingerinanland, and the districts of Kexliolm and
N'iborg in Finland had to be made over. The kingdom now enjoyed
an interval of repose , a new- code of laws was drawn up (17.^i),
and efforts were made to revive commerce. The peace party was
derisively called 'Nightcaps" (nattmossor), or simply 'Caps', while
a warlike party which now arose was known as 'Hats' (hdtlnr). In
accordance witli the coinisels of the latter, war was proclaimed
with Russia, which soon led to the loss of Fijiland (1741). On the
death of the queen without issue, Adolphus Frederick of Holstcin-
Gottorp , a relation of the crown-prince of Russia, was elected as
Frederick's successor, on condition (Peace of Abo; 1743) that the
greater part of Finland should be restored. The remainder of
Frederick's reign was tranquil, and he died in 1751.
The prerogatives of his successor, Adolphus Frederick, were
farther limited by the Estates. An attempt on the part of the
Ixx XI. HISTORY.
king to emancipate liiniself led to a confirmation of tlie existing
constitution, and to a resolution that a stamp bearing tlic king's
name should be impressed without his consent on documents ap-
proved by the Estates (ITfHi). The court vainly attempted to
rebel, and the king was bluntly reminded that the Estates had
power to depose him. In 1757 the 'Hats' recklessly plunged into
the Seven Years' War. and after an ignoble campaign peace was
concluded at Hamburg in 1702.
In 1771 Adolphus was succeeded by his son Gustavus III.,
who by means of a preconcerted military revolution or eoup-tVctnt
(177'2} succeeded in regaining several of the most valuable prero-
gatives of the crown, including the sole executive power, whereby
the government was converted from a mere republic into a limited
monarchy. The king used his victory with moderation, abolished
torture , introduced liberty of the press , promoted commerce,
science, and art, and strengthened the army. On the other hand
he was extravagant and injudicious, and in 1788 committed tlie
error of declaring war against Russia without the consent of the
Estates. His officers refused to obey him, and his difficulties
were aggravated by a declaration of war and invasion of Sweden
by the banes. Gustavus now succeeded, with the aid of the
middle and lower classes, in effecting a farther change in the
constitution (1798), which gave him the sole prerogative of mak-
ing war and concluding peace, while the right of acquiring pri-
vileged landed estates (fralsegods) was bestowed on the peasantry.
An armistice was concluded with Denmark, and the not unsuc-
cessful hostilities with Russia led to the Peace of Vilrala (1790),
which precluded Russia from future interference with Swedish
affairs. Soon after, on the outbreak of the French Revolution, the
king proposed to intervene, together with Russia and Austria, in
favour of Louis XVI. and proceeded to levy new taxes, whereupon
the disaffected nobles entered into a new conspiracy against him,
and in 1792 this chivalrous and enlightened, though sometimes
ill-advised monarch was assassinated by Capt. Ankarstrom.
His son Gustavus Adolphus succeeded him as Gustavus IV.,
under the regency of his uncle Duke Charles of Sbdermanland,
who avoided all participation in the wars of the Revolution. In
1800 Gustavus, in accordance with a scheme of his father, and
in conjunction with Russia and Denmark, took up a position of
armed neutrality, but Denmark having been coerced by England
to abandon this position, and Russiahaving dissolved the alliance,
Sweden was also obliged to yield to the demands of England. The
king's futile dreams of the restoration of absolutism and his ill-
judged and disastrous participation in the Napoleonic wars led to
the loss of Wismar, Pomerania, and Finland, and to his defeat in
Norway (1803-8). The country being now on the brink of ruin,
the Estates caused Gustavus to be arrested, and formally deposed
XI. HISTORY. Ixxi
liiiti and his heirs (1809). He died in poverty at .'^t. Gallen in
1837. His TUiclo was then elected king as Charles XIII., and a
Ticw constitution framed, mainly on the basis of that of 177'2.
Peace was concluded at Frederikshamn with Russia (1809), to
which the whole of Finland and the Aland Islands were ceded,
with Denmark, and with France (1810), whereby Sweden recovered
part of Pomerania. The king being old and childless, Prince
Christian Augusttis of Augustenburg, stadtholder of Norway, was
elected crown-prince, but on his sudden death, in 1810, the Estates
elected Mnrshid Ihrnudotte, one of Napoleon's generals, who was
adopted by Charles, assumed the name of Charles John, and em-
braced the Protestant faith. The crown-prince's influence was
directed to military organisation. The lukewarmness of Sweden
in maintaining the continental blockade led to a rupture with
France, and during the war with Napoleon the Swedes concluded
a treaty with the Russians at Abo on the footing that the crown
of Norway should be secured to Sweden (1812). England and
Prussia having given the same assurance, Charles John marched
with a Swedish contingent into Germany and assumed the com-
mand of the combined northern army which took part in the dc-
I'isive struggle against Napoleon (1813). The crown-prince's par-
ticipation in the war was a somewhat reluctant one , but by the
Peace of Kiel (1814) he succeeded in compelling Denmark to cede
Norway to Sweden, while Denmark obtained possession of Swedish
Pomerania and retained Iceland, Greenland, and the Faroes.
The Intellectual Progress of the country was greatly furthered
by the Reformation. Peder Mansnon (d. 1534), bishop of Vesteras,
wrote works on the army, the navy, medicine, and other subjects
in the mcdi?eval style, while Laurentius Petri (d. 1573), Laurcn-
tius Andrea (d. lo5'2), and others translated the Bible into Swedish
and wrote Protestant theological works in their native tongue.
L. Petri and his brother Olaus{A. 155'2)also wrote Swedish chron-
icles; Archbishop Johannes Magni was the author of a history of
the kings in Latin, with a large admixture of the fabulous ele-
ment; and his brother Olnus wrote the often-quoted 'Historia do
Gentibus Septentrionalibus'. An equally indiscriminate writer of
history, and an author of dramatic and other works, was Johan
Messenius (d. 1637). Even Gustavus Vasa had been anxious to
preserve the purity of his native language, but it was not till the
I7thcent. that scholars interested themselves in it. Queen Chris-
tina, a talented and learned princess, was a great patroness of
literature. She invited foreign savants to her court (Descartes,
Grotius, and others), as well as native authors, including Johan
Ihireiis (d. 165'2) and the versatile and distinguished Gdraii Lilje
{ennobled as Heorg Stjernhjclm; d. 167'2). At this period, too
(1658), J(^n liugman first called attention to the treasures of
Icelandic literature, and antiquarian and historical research no\^
Ixxii XI. HISTORY.
came into vogue. Hitherto German influence liad preponderated
in Sweden, Imt about tlie middle of the 18th cent, a preference
began to be shown for the French style. To this school belong
Olof von Dalin{i\. 17(53), the poet and historian, and Count Tessin
(d. 1770), a meritorious art-collector; and among tbe scholars of the
same period were Lagerbring, the historian (d. 1787), Johan Jhre,
tlic philologist (d. 1780), and above all Karl von Linne {^LinmeuH;
d. 1778), the famous botanist. The 'Vitterhets Akademi', or 'acad-
emy of belles-lettres', founded in 1753 was extended by Gusta-
vus III. so as to embrace history and antiquities, and he also
founded the Swedish Academy. To the academic school belonged
Kdlgren (d. 179')) and Leopold (d. 1829): but a far more popu-
lar poet, and one wlio repudiated all the traditions of French taste,
was BellnKin (d. 179;')), the singer of sweet and simple ballads,
whose 'Frcdmans Kpistlar' were deemed worthy of a prize even by
the Academy, and whose memory is still fondly cherished.
The Continued Union of Norway with Denmark.
^Vhen Sweden withdrew from the Kalmar Union (lO^B), Nor-
way at first remained faithful to Chrinlian JL, but Vinccntius
Lunge procured the election of Frederick J. (1524). This king's
Frotcstant tendencies induced the Norwegians to re-elect Chris-
tian II. in 1531 , when the deposed king appeared in Norway
with an army, but he was treacherously arrested the following
year and ended his life in captivity (see p. Ixiv). Frederick thus
regained Norway and continued to prosecute the objects of the
Reformation till his death (1533). The nnbility and the I'ro-
testant party in Denmark elected his eldest son Christian III.
as his successor, and the southern half of Norway under Lunge
acquiesced. A rebellion of the northern provinces, which cost
Lunge his life, was quelled, and the archbishop who had headed
it was obliged to quit the country. In 1536 Christian III. had
promised the Danes to convert Norway into a Danish province,
and he now abolished the council of state and otherwise partially
kept his word. The doctrines of the Reformation permeated the
country very slowly, but the dissolution of the monasteries and
confiscation of church-property were prosecuted with great zeal.
The Norwegian towns now began to prosper, and the trade of the
country to improve , while the tyranny of the Hansa merchants at
Bergen was checkccl by Christopher Valkendorff (1530). In 1559
Christian was succeeded by his son Frederick II., in whose reign
occurred the calamitous seven years' war with Sweden (1563-70),
which sowed the seeds of national hatred between the countries,
and caused the destruction of Oslo, Sarpsborg, and Hamar, the
devastation of many agricultural districts, and the military occu-
pation of others. At the same time the country was terribly op-
pressed by Frederick's officials, and he himself visited it once only.
XI. HISTORY. Ixxiii
His son Christian IV. (lo8S-1648), on the other hand, visited
Norway very Irciiuently and was indefatigable in his reforms. He
refused to grant fiefs in future to nobles who were not natives of
Norway (loOd), and he promulgated a Norwegian code. (ifi04),
wliii'h was a revised edition of the laws of 1274 translated into
Danish. He also published an ecclesiastical code (16071. and took
energetic measures to exclude Jesuits from the country. At the
same time the army was improved, trade was favoured, the silver
mines at Kongsberg (_16'241 and the copper-mines of Raros (1645)
were established, the towns of Christiania [1624) and Christian-
sand (1641) founded anew, and the Hansa factory at Bergen strictly
controlled. All these benertts were outweighed by the disasters of
the Kalniar War with Sweden (1611-13), during which the peas-
antry gained their famous victory over the Scottish auxiliaries
under Col. Ramsay at Kringlen (p. 66), and still more by those
of the Thirty Years' War, in which Cliristian participated (1621")-
1629). A second war with Sweden (1643-45) terminated with tlic
severance of Jemtland and Herjcdalen from Norway.
New disasters befell Norway in the reign of his son Fred-
erick III. (1648-70). The result of the participation of Denmark
and Norway in the Swedish-Polish war was that Norway linally
lost Balius-Lan, Idre, and Siirna. During this war Halden earned
for itself the new name of Fredriksh.-.ld by the bravery of its de-
fenders. These misfortunes, however, led to a rupture with the
existing system of government. (>n ascending the throne Fred-
crick liad signed a pledge which placed him in the power of the
nobility, but during the wars the incompetency of the council of
state, and the energy of the king and citizens in defending Copen-
hagen, liad greatly raised him in the public estimation. At a diet
held at Copenhagen in 1660 the indignation of the clergy and
burghers against the nobility burst forth , and they demanded tlio
abolition of its oppressive privileges. It was next dicovcred tliat
the pledge given by the king was subversive of all liberty and
progress , the king and the lower Estates proceeded to declare the
succession to the throne hereditary, and Frederick was empowered
to revise the constitution. Tlie result was that he declared the
king alone to be invested with sovereign and absolute power, and
to til is document he succeeded privately in procuring the sigua-
lures of most of the members of the diet. This declaration became
law in 1661, but was not actually promulgated till 1709. These
great clianges were on the whole beneficial to Norway. The
country was at least now placed on an equality with Denmark, and
the strict bureaucratic administration was preferable to the old
evils of local tyranny and individual caprice. The supreme
authority now consisted of the heads of the five government de-
partments, presided over by the king, and the feudal lords with
their local jurisdictions were replaced by crown-officials.
Ixxiv XI. HISTORY.
I'^rcilcrick's son Christian V. (1670-99) was not imsucccssful
in the Skanc war against Sweden (1675-79), but liis cliicf merit
as regards Norway was tlie promulgation of a code (1687), based
on tlie Danisli code of 1683, and of a churoh ritual for both coun-
tries. The creation of the new counties or earldoms of Lanrvig and
T^nsberg, afterwards called Jarlsberg, and of the barony of Rosen-
dal were unproductive of benefit to Norway. The unjust treat-
ment of his minister Griffenfeldt , who for a trivial offence was
cruelly imprisoned for 22 years, forms a blot on this king's memory.
Christian V. was succeeded by his son Frederick IV. (1699-
17.30), in whose reign was waged the great northern war in which
the Norwegian naval hero Peter Vessel (ennobled under the name
of Tordenskjnld) took a prominent part. The sole gain to Den-
mark by the Peace of Fredriksborg (1720) was the renunciation
by Sweden of its immunity from Sound dues. The king husbanded
his finances, but often procured money by discreditable means.
He hired out mercenary troops, sold most of the crown-property
in Norway, and granted a monopoly of the trade of Finmarken.
These abuses, maladministration, and an attempt to alter the land
laws so embittered the Norwegians, that a union with Russia was
actually proposed. In this reign a mission to Lapland was organised
(1714), Th. von Vesten being one of its chief promoters, and Hans
Egode went as a missionary to Greenland (1721).
Under Frederick's son Christian VI. •(1730-46) Norway was
injuriously infected with German Puritanism, which enjoined the
utmost rigidity of church observances and abstention from all
worldly amusements. Among the expedients used for reviving
trade in Denmark was an oppressive enactment that S. Norway
should draw its sole corn supplies from tliat country. The fleet,
however, was strengthened ,• an efficient militia organised, and
education promoted. A long peace favoured the growth of com-
merce, navigation, and industry.
In the reign of Frederick V. (1746-66) the grievous sway of
Puritanism came to an end , and art and science were zealously
cultivated. A mining school was founded atKongsberg, and a
mathematical school at Ghristiania, and at Trondhjem a useful
scientific society was established by Gunnerus , Schenlng , and
Sulim, a learned Dane (1760-67). 'J'he frontier between Norway
and Sweden was measured and defined (1759), facilities were
afforded to commerce , and skilled miners introduced from Ger-
many. Complications with Russia connected with the affairs of
Sleswick caused severe financial losses to Denmark and Norway,
and the increased taxation provoked a revolt at Bergen , which,
however, was soon quelled (1763). Notwithstanding these draw-
backs, Norway prospered under the absolute monarchy, while Den-
mark languished. The king in Denmark , being separated froui
the lower classes by* a wealthy and influential aristocracy, was
XI. HISTORY. Ixxv
unable effectually to redress their grievances, and they still groan-
ed under the evils of serfdom and compulsory service. "With the
exception of Copenhagen, the towns were aluiostequally oppressed,
and in ITlill the whole population of Denmark did not exceed
800,000 souls. In Norway, on the other hand , the peasantry en-
joyed freedom, the towns had thrown off the oppressive Hanseatic
yoke, and feudal jurisdictions were abolished , while complaints
against officials were addressed to the king in person. A class of
native officials had also sprung up, affording an additional elemci\t
of security. While the population had numbered 450,000 only in
1(U)4, it rose to 723,000 in 17G9. The number of Norwegian ships
also increased from bOto TloO. The peasantry had benefited greatly
by the sale of the crown-estates, and the trade of Norway now far
surpassed that of Denmark. At the same time frequent intercourse
with England and other foreign countries served to expand the
Norwegian mind and to prepare the way for a period of still greater
enlightenment and prosperity.
During the long reign of the imbecile Christian VII. (17(i()-
1808) his authority was wielded by his ministers. Strueiisee, his
German physician, was the first of these. His measures were those
of an enlightened absolutism. He simplified judicial procedure,
abolished torture, excluded the lackeys of noblemen from public
offices, deprived the aristocracy of their privileges, bestowed lib-
erty on the press, and husbanded the finances. The peremptory
manner in which these and other reforms were introduced gave
great ofl'ence, particularly as Struensee took no pains to conceal
his contempt for the Danes. Christian's stepmother accordingly
organised a conspiracy against him, and he was executed in 1772.
His successor was Oi^e. (riildberg, a Dane, who passed a law that
Danes, Norwegians, and Ilolsteiners alone should be eligible for
the governuient service, and rescinded Struensee's reforms (1771) ).
In 1780 an attitude of armed neutrality introduced by the able
Count Bemstorff gave a great impulse to the shipping trade, but
the finances of the country were ruined. In 1784 the Crown
Prince Frederick assumed the conduct of affairs with Bernstorff as
his minister, whereupon a more liberal, and for Norway in partic-
ular a more favourable era began. The corn-trade of 8. Norway
was relieved from its fetters, the trade of Finmarken was set free,
aTul the towTis of Tromse, Hammerfest, and Vard0 were founded.
On a renewal of the armed neutrality (1800-18011, Great Britain
attacked Copenhagen and forced the Danes to abandon it. Six years
later Napoleon's scheme of using Denmark's fieet against Great
Britain led to a second attack on Copenhagen and its bombardment
by the British fleet, which resulted in the surrender of the whole
Danish and Norwegian fleetto Great Britain (1807). Denmark, allied
with Fjaiice, then declared war both against Great Britain and
Sweden (1808), and almost at the same period Christian died.
IxKvi XI. HISTORY.
On the accession of Frederick VI. (1808-36") the affairs of the
kingdom were in a desperate condition. The British did not
attack the country, hut contented themselves with capturing as
many Danisli and Norwegian vessels as possihlc and ruining the
trade of the country by bloi'kading all its seaports. Owing to an
over-issue of paper-money the government was soon unable to meet
its liabilities and declared itself bankrupt (1813). Meanwhile
Norway was governed by a separate commission, presided over by
Prince Christian Augusiua of Augustenhurg (1807"), and was so
well defended that it lost nothing by the peace of Jonkoping
(1809). The independence of the peasantry, the wealth of the
burghers, and the success of their country in the war against Swe-
den naturally created in the minds of the Norwegians a proud
sense of superiority over the unhappy Danes, while the liberality
of their views widened the breach with a country still groaning
under absolutism. A 'Society for the Welfare of Norway' was
founded in 1810, and a Union with Sweden was warmly advocated,
particularly by the talented Count Herman Wedel-.larlsberg. The
I)anish government made some vain attempts to conciliate the
Norwegians, as for example by the foundation of a university at
Ghristiania (1811), which had been proposed so far back as 1661,
but the Norwegians themselves provided the necessary funds. In
concluding a treaty with the Russians in 1812, Sweden obtained
their consetit to its future annexation of Norway, and at the Peace
of Kiel in 1814 the Danes were compelled to make the cession.
Frederick thereupon released the Norwegians from their allegiance
to him, and the union of Norway with Denmark, which had sub-
sisted for more than four centuries, was thus dissolved.
The Literature of Norway from the Reformation to the end of
the union is inseparable from that of Denmark. As translators
of old northern laws and sagas may be mentioned L. Hanssen
(d. 1596) and P. C. Friis (d. 1614), of whom the latter also wrote
interesting works on Norwegian topography and natural history in
his native dialect. A. Federsen (d. 1574), of Bergen, was the
author of a description of Norway and of the 'Capitulary of
Bergen'. The historian and topographer J. Ramiis (d. 1718) and
the poet Peter Dass (d. 1708), the still popular author of 'Nord-
lands Trompet', were also natives of Norway, while T. Turf<pus
(d. 1719), a famous historian of Norway, was an Icelander. By
far the most important author of this period was Ludvig Holberg
of Bergen (d. 1754), the poet and historian, whose 'Peder Paars',
'Subterranean Journey of Nils Klim', and comedies have gained
him a European reputation. Among later poets and authors C. B.
Tullin (d. 1765), J. H. Vessel (d. 1785), C. Fasting (d. 1791),
E. Storm (d. 1794), T. de Stockfleth (d . 1808), J. N. Brun (d. 1816),
J. Zetlitz(d. IS'Jl), and C. Friman (d. 1829) are noted for the
national character and individuality of their writings , which are
XI. HISTORY. Ixxvii
iininnuenced by the French and German taste then prevalent in
Denmark. This national school was partly indebted for its origin
to the foundation of the 'Norsiie Selskab' at Copenhagen in 177'2,
while the 'L.-erde Selskab' of Trondhjem , founded by Ounrrerui<,
the naturalist (d. 1773), anA Schening, the historian (d. 1780),
promoted scientific research. On the whole, notwithstanding
the want of good national scliools, the Norwegian literature of this
period ranks at least as high as the Danish.
Union of Sweden and Norway.
After the Peace of Jcinkuping in 1809 Norway was governed by
Prince Frederick of Hesse and afterwards by Ckrislian Frederick,
cousin of King Frederick and heir to his throne. Christian was a
popular priTiee, and even after the terms of the Peace of Kiel had
been adjusted he made an effort to secure the sovereignty of the
country for himself. He summoned an assembly of notables to
Eidsvold (Feb., 1814), stated the terms of the Peace of Kiel, which
had not yet been published, and declared that he would assert his
claim in spite of it. The assembly denied the right of the King
of Denmark to hand over Norway to Sweden , but also declined to
recognise the prince's hereditary claim. They, however, appointed
him regent until a national diet should be summoned to consider
the state of affairs. The King of Sweden promised the Norwegians
a liberal constitution if they would submit to his authority; but
his offer met with no response, the country eagerly prepared to
assert its independence, and a temporary government was con-
stituted. On 10th April, 1814, the representatives of the country
met at Eidsvold , a constitution framed chiefly by K. M. Falsen
[d. 1830) was adopted on 17th May, and on the same day Christian
Frederick was proclaimed king. Count Wedel-Jarlsberg, the most
far-seeing of the Norwegian statesmen , who had urged a union
with Sweden, was overruled on this occasion , but his object was
soon afterwards attained. About the end of June ambassadors of
the guaranteeing powers, Russia, Britain, Austria, and Prussia,
arrived at Christiania to demand fulfilment of the Peace of Kiel
and to recall the regent in the name of the King of Denmark.
After fruitless negociations and the outbreak of a war with Swe-
den , which was terminated by the Convention of Moss on 14th
August, the Swedish regent temporarily recognised the new Nor-
wegian constitution, and Christian summoned a Storthing to meet
at Christiania in October, to which he tendered his resignation,
and imnu'dintely afterwards set sail for Denmark. He afterwards
reigned over Denmark as Christian YIII. (1839-48). During the
sauie month the Storthing, though not without reluctance, affirmed
the principle of union with Sweden, andseveral modifications were
made in the Eidsvold constitution, and on 4tli November Charles
(XlU. of Sweden) was unanimously proclaimed kiiig. <>n lOtli
Ixxviii XI. HISTORY.
November the crowu-priiice Charles John solemnly ratlfled the
constitution at Christiania. With pardonable national pride, how-
ever, the Norwegians still observe the 17th of May, 1814, as the
true date of their political regeneration.
At first as regent, and after the death of Charles XIII. (1818)
as King of Norway (1818-44), Churlea John or Charles XIV. had a
difficult task to perform in governing two kingdoms to which a
few years previously he had been an entire stranger, and with
whose languages he was imperfectly acquainted. The internal
affairs of both countries were, moreover, in an abnormally unsettled
condition, and their finances were well-nigh ruined, while foreign
states looked askance at the parvenu king and his almost repub-
lican kingdom of Norway. In 1815, however, the legislative au-
thorities of the two kingdoms drew up a formal Act of Union,
placing the connection of the countries on a satisfactory basis. By
the sale of the island of Guadeloupe to England the king was
enabled to pay part of the national debt of Sweden, and he adopted
other wise financial measures. Among other serious difficulties
was that of calling in the unsecured Danish banknotes still cir-
culating in Norway, a task which occasioned heavy sacrifices, and
at the same time a bank was founded at Trondhjem (18113). In
18'21 a new burden was imposed by the unlooked for liability of
Norway for part of the national debt of Denmark, while the intro-
duction of a new educational system and other reforms was attended
with great expense. About this period the king displeased his
democratic Norwegian subjects by opposing their abolition of titles
of nobility (1821), by attempts to enlarge the prerogatives of the
crown and to obtain for it the absolute right to veto the resolutions
of the Storthing (1824), by appointing Swedish governors of Nor-
way, and by yielding to what were considered the unjust demands
of Great Britain in consequence of a fracas atBoda. On the other
hand, by rigid economy, sound administration, and the legalised
sale of church-property for educational purposes (1821), and owing
to good harvests and successful fisheries , the prosperity of the
country rapidly improved, while the king's firmness of character
and his self-denial in renouncing his civil list for a period often
years in order to assist in paying the national debt justly gained
for him the respect and admiration of his people. From 1836 on-
wards the highest offices in Norway were filled with Norwegians
exclusively, and a new communal code (1837), penal code (1842),
and other useful laws were passed. — In Sweden the French re-
volution of 1830 caused a great sensation and led to a fruitless
demand for the abolition of the existing constitution. A conspiracy
in favour of Prince Vasa (1832) and several riots in Stockholm
(18.38) were also unsuccessful. On the other hand the king earned
the gratitude of his Swedish subjects by the zeal with which he
promoted the construction of new roads and canals, particularly
XI. HISTORY. Ixxix
that of the Gota Canal, and t'urtliered the interests of commerce and
agriculture, and at the time of his death the internal affairs of both
kingdoms rested on a sound and satisfactory constitutional basis.
The administration of his son Oscar I. (1844-59) was of a still
more liberal and enlightened tendency. This gifted and highly
educated monarch thoroughly remodelled the law of succession
(1845) and the criminal code (1854) of Sweden, and abolished the
monopolies of guilds, but he was unsuccessful in his attempts to
procure a reform of the constitution (1845 and 1850-51). On his
accession the king rendered himself popular in Norway by present-
ing it with an appropriate national flag, and he was afterwards a
scrupulous observer of the constitution of that country. At the same
time the population and wealth of Norway increased rapidly. His
temporary interposition in the German and Danish war regarding
Sleswick, which led to the Armistice of Malmo (1848) and after-
wards to the occupation of Northern Sleswick by Swedish and Nor-
wegian troops, was regarded with favour in both of his kingdoms,
where patriotic Scandinavian views were then in vogue.
Oscar's eldest son Charles (XV. of Sweden; 1859-72), a highly
popular, though pleasure-loving monarch, who was endowed with
considerable artistic and poetical talent, inaugurated the present
representative constitution of Sweden in 1865, while in Norway
the triennial Storthing was made annual (1869). In both countries
the principle of religious equality was extended, new railways
and roads constructed, and other reforms introduced. A threatened
conflict between the representatives of the two countries was
averted through the king's influence, and to his wisdom was due
the neutrality observed during the German and Danish war of
1863 and the Franco-German war of 1870-71 , although his sub-
jects warmly sympathised with the Danes in the one case and with
the French in the other.
In 1872 Charles was succeeded by his brother, the present
king Oscar II., a gifted prince, endowed like his father and elder
brother with considerable taste for science , poetry, and music.
Materially and intellectually his kingdoms have recently made
rapid strides. Latterly the radical and republican movement has
gained considerable ground in Norway, where it has been accom-
panied by a strong ultra-nationalistic spirit, revealing itself largely
in a revulsion of feeling against the union with Sweden. The
Norwegians now desire a foreign minister and a consular service
of their own. In 1898 they abolished the symbols of the niiloii from
tlioir national flag, although, of course, the union flag is still borne
by tlie army anil navy.
Iti both kingdoms the fleld of Literature has been most sedu-
lously cultivated during the present century. In Swisi>kn there
existed an academic and a neutral school, as a representative of
Ixxx XI. HISTORY.
which may be mentioned Franz Michael Franzai (<1. IH4'7), the,
graceful lyric poet. An opposite tendency was exemplified by the
romantic school, which consisted of two groups. The leader of one
of these groups, called 'Phosphorists' from their periodical 4'hos-
plioros', was Per Daniel Amadeus Allerhom (A. i'^bb\ distinguished
for his popular songs and his monographs on Swedish poets, but
showing a fantastic sentimentality in his more ambitious poems.
The chief representatives of the other romantic group, known as the
'Gotisk' (Gothic) school , were the historian Erik Guslaf Geijer
(d. 1847) and Bishop Esaias Tegner (d. 1846). The former was the
author of a series of vigorous and beautiful short poems inspired by
a genuine Scandinavian sentiment. TegneVs great lyrical - epical
poems, of which the 'Fridthjofs-Saga' is the best known, are charac-
terised by groat technical perfection and are also permeated by a
truly national spirit. His brilliant rhetoric, however, is responsible
for a revival of the bombastic style among his imitators. The Finnish
poet Johan Ludvig Runeberg (d. 1877), is marked by a noble
simplicity, an unusual purity of feeling, and a keen sense of form.
His epics and lyrics, especially the glowingly patriotic 'Fanrik Stal's
Siigner', claim a worthy place in the world's literature. An isolated
and unique position is occupied by Karl Jonas Ludnig Almqvist
(d. 1866), in whom a powerful imagination is combined with a total
disregard of moral restraint. The poems and romances of Victor Ryd-
hirg (d. 1896) are distinguished by lofty thought and artistic form.
Among living poets Count Snoilsky (b. 1841) deservedly claims a
high place for splendour of diction and national feeling. The earlier
works of A. Strindberg (b. 1849) are characterized by an almost
repellant 'realism' in both matter and manner, but a fundamental
change in his views is evidenced in his latest historical dramas
('Gustavus Adolphus'; 1901), in which deep patriotism appears
coupled with a new-found piety. As popular authoresses, though
inferior to some of their above-mentioned contemporaries, we may
mention Frederica Bremer (d. 1865) and Emilie Flygare - Carlen
(d. 1892).
In Norway the struggle for independem'e of Danish influence
is illustrated by the passionate H. Wergeland (d. 1845) and the
more temperate J. Velhaven (d. 1873). Through Bjarnson , and
still more through Ibsen, Norwegian literature has now acquired a
worldwide celebrity. Bjemstjerne Bjernson (b. 1832) is distin-
guished by the strength and freshness of his earlier poems, romances,
and historical dramas, and by the radical boldness and depth of the
ideas in his later sociological plays such as -liedakteren' (1875),
'En Fallit" (1875), 'Kongen' (1879), 'Over Evne' ('Above our
Strength'; first part 1883, second part 1895), and 'Laboremus'
(1901). Henrik Ibsen (b. 1828), who also made his debut with
poems, popular tales, and thoughtful historical dramas, has taken
the world by storm with his satirical and philosophical dramas
XI. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. Isxxi
(such as -Brand", 1860, 'Peer Gynt', 1867, ami 'Kejser og Galilser,
1873), and still more by bis series of realistir soi-iologiGal plays.
Among these (nearly all excellently translated by William Archer)
are 'Samfundcts Stetter' ('Pillars of Society', 1877), 'Et Dukkehjem'
('A Doll's House', 1879), 'Genpangere' ('Ghosts', 1881), 'Eu Folke-
flende' (-An Enemy of the People', 1882), 'Yildanden ('The Wild
Duck". 1884), 'Kosmersholm' (1886), 'Fruen ira Havet' ('The Lady
from the Sea', 1888), "Hedda Gabler' (1890), 'Bygmester Solness"
('The Master Builder", 1892), 'Lille Eyolf ('Little Eyolf, 1894),
'John Gabriel Borkmaa" (1897), and 'Nar vi Dede Vagner' ('When
we Dead Awaken', 1900). These plays are characterized by masterly
dramatic form and a ruthless realism in laying bare the shady side
of modern life. — The tales and romances of Jonas Lie (b. 1833),
Alex. KjeUand (b. 1849), and Arne Garhorg (b. 1851) have also
met a warm appreciation.
The scientiflc literature of both Sweden and Norway is also rich,
especially iu the domains of history, etymology, natural science,
and geography. The Arctic explorers Baron Nordenskjidd (b. 1832)
and Fritli i"f Nunstn (!•. 1861) have a worldwide r.pntation.
Chronological Table. p^
Peehistobic Pkriot) : Ages of Flint, I'lronze, and Iron
(down to ca. 700 A.D.) xliv
Norway hkfork the Union xlvi
Ilarald Hauvfag,v (il.',34), Ohif Tryyyrason (rf. lUJO), St. Ola f
fd. 1030), Mwjniis the Good (d. 1047), Vluf Kyrri (d. lU9o),
itagmts Eilingss^ii (1161), Sverre (d. 1202), Haakon Ilaakons-
sun (d. 1263), Muynns Lagabeter (d. 12S0), Eric Magnussfn
(d. 1299), Haakon Mugmtssfin (d. 1319).
Intfllectuul Culture liii
Swe)>i:k liEroRE the Union 11 v
Birger Jarl (d. J26f)), Magnus Ladvln/i (.1. 12' 0).
Lileraiure Ivii
The Union (1397-1523) Ix
MurgarKt of Denmark (1387-1412), £nc of I'omerania (d. 1459),
ChrisUiphnv vf ISuiaria (1440-48), Christian of Oldeiibvrg
(1448-81), Z/a;w (1481- 151'2j,C7iri.'!to(rt//. (ir)13-23; d. 1559) —
Enyelbrekl EngelbrekUson (d 1436), Sten Sture (d. 1503).
Iviteruture Ixiv
Sweden ai'ter the Dissolution of thk Kalmar Union
(1623-1814) Ixiv
dustaoiis Vasa (1523-60), Eric XI V. (d. 1577), John III. (A. 1592).
iSigismimd (1592-99), Charles IX. (d. 1611), Gvs'aviig Adolphus
(d 1632), Christina (1632-54; d. l(;89), Charles X. (d. 1660),
Charles .\I. (d. 1G97), Charles XII. (d. 1718), Frederick 1.
{A. 1751), Adolphus Frederick (d 1771), (lustacus III. (d. 1792),
aiistavus IV. (1792-1809; d. 1837), Charles XIII. (d. 1318).
Intellectual I'l-.ig.ess K'^'
B.^Kl'l^KKK^'^ Norway and Sweden. 8tli Edit. f
Ixxxii CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE.
Page
6. Continued Union of Norway and Denmark (1523-1814) Ixxii
Christian III. (d. 1559), Freilerick II. (d. 1588), Christian I V.
fd. 1648), Frederick III. (d 16"iO) , Christian V. (d. 1G'J9|,
Frederick IV. (d. 1730), Christian VI. (d. 1746), Frederick V.
(d. 1766), Christian VII. (d. ie08), Frederick VI. (d. It39).
Literature Ixxvi
7. Union of Sweden and Norway (siuce 1814) Ixxvii
Charles XIV. (1S18-44), Oscar I. (d. 1859), Charles XV. (d. 1872),
Oscar II. (ascended the throne in 1872).
l.iliTature Ixxix
SOUTHERN AND EASTERN NORWAY.
(As FAR AS TrONDHJEM.)
Route Page
1. Christiansaiid and the Ssetersdal 2
From Christiansand to Christiania 6
'2. Christiania and Environs 9
3. From Christiania to the Randsfjord via Drammen and
Haugsiind *2'2
From Sandviken to Krogkleven and H)i(uefos i'-!
4. From (Ch%<!tiania) Ilaugsund to the Hardanger Fjord
via Kongsuerg and the Rjukanfos 27
From Kongsberg to the Jonsknut. Labrofos ~A
From L0vheim toSiljord; to Tuddal Sanatorium. Gaiista 32
f). From Christiania to the Hardanger. Fjord via 8kieii,
the Telemarken Canal, and the Haukelifjeld .... 33
From Eidanger to Brevik 35
From Hvideseid to Arendal 38
Eidsborg. Ravnejuvet 39
6. From Kongsherg to the Hardanger Fjord through the
Numedal 42
7. From Christiania through the Hallingdal to Laerdals-
eren on the Sognefjord (Bergen) 44
Ascent of the Norefjeld 44
From T^xB to Lake Spirillen 45
From Rolfshus to the Valders 45
From Ekre to the Valders 46
The Upper Hallingdal 4B
8. From Christiania through the Valders to Lffirdalsaren
on the Sognefjord TiO
a. Via Lake Spirillen to Frydenlund 50
h. To Odnses and Dokka via the Randstjord or by the
Northern and Valders Railway 52
c. Road from Odnss and Dokka to Laerdals0ren . . 53
9. From Christiania through the Gudbrandsdal to Stryn
on the Nordfjord, Marok on the Geiranger Fjord, or
Aandalsnss on the Romsdals-Fjord 00
a. Railway from Christiania via Hamar to Otta in the
Gudbrandsdal t'>0
b. Road from Otta via Grotlid to Stryn, on the Nord-
fjord, and to Marok, on the Geiranger Fjord ... (>5
From Lindsheim to the Sognefjord G^
c. Road from Otta to Aandalsnas, on the Romsdals-
Fjord 08
From Mulmeii to Skeaker TO
n.AKDUKKit'.'i Norway and .SwimIimi. Sth Kdit. 1
2 Route 7. CHRISTIANSAND.
Route I'agc
10. From Doniaas in the Gudbraiidsdal over tlio Dovre-
fjeld to Stj»ren (Trondhjem) 71
Snehsettan 72
From Austbjerg to Tiansset 73
From Bjerkaker to 0rkedal3OTen 73
11. From Christiauia to Trondlijem by Railway .... 74
12. From Christiauia to Charlottenberg (Stockholm) . . 78
13. From Christiauia to Gotenburg by Railway .... 79
14. From Christiauia to Gotenburg by Sea 84
1. Christiansand and the Ssetersdal.
Chuistiansand, the largest town on the S. coast of Norway, at which
numerous steamers touch in summer, lies at the mouth of the Sietersdal,
which is seldom chosen as an avenue to the interior of Norway in spite
of the new railway and the laudable exerlions of the 'Christiansands og
Oplauds Turistforening' to improve the accommodation for travellers.
Several fine but fatiguing mountain-paths lead from the head of the valley
to the great Telemarken, Hardanger Fjord, and Stavanger Fjord routes.
Christiansand. — Hotels. '^Ernst's, Vestre Strand-Gaden-j-, at the
corner of Raadhus-liaden, with electric light and baths ; R. from 21/2, B. Vj"2,
D. (at 1.30 p.m.) 21/2 kr., S. 1 kr. 60 0. — Eoyal, Skandinavie, Salvesen,
all three in Dronningens-Gaden; Dagmar, Raadhus-Gaden 9, by the market-
place, unpretending.
Post and Telegraph Office, corner of Raadhus-Gaden and JIarkens-Gaden.
Sea Baths: Selyst, on ihe Oddere (p. 3), hours for men 12-2 and 5-9
(bath 20 0.). Warm Baths adjoining the cathedral (40-80 0.).
Music frequently at Helyst (see above), in the grounds of the BeUevue
(p. 3), and in Raviiedalen fp. 3).
Bookseller, A. Conrudi, opposite the post-oflice.
British Vice-Consul, American Consular Agent, and Lloyd's Agent,
Mr. Heme Reinhardt, Vestre Strand-Gaden 10.
Steamers to Christiania, to Slavanger, and to Bergen once or twice
daily; io Frederikshavn in Denmark daily j to CopewAajrere weekly ; to Ham-
hurg twice weekly; to London weekly; to Hull weekly; to Leitli weekly;
to LirerjJool fortnightly; also to Amsterdam, Antwerp ^ etc. Small local
steamers ply daily, except Sunday, to Arendal-Brevik and to Mandal, twice
weekly to Farsund, and once or twice daily to iJosby, on the Otteraa.
Christiansand, with 14,700 inhab., the largest town on the S.
coast of Norway and the residence of one of the five Norwegian
bishops, -was founded by Christian IV. of Denmark in 1641 and
lies at the mouth of the Otteraa, or Torrisdals-Eiv, on a square
peninsula, the N.E. side of which is washed by the river. The town
has frequently suffered from destructive tires, the last in 1892. The
streets intersect at right angles, some parallel with Vestre Strand-
•f- The Norwegian custom always appends the definite article (comp.
p. 3 of the Grammar at the end of the Handbook) to such words as Oade
(street). Vet (way), Torv (market), and so on in giving an address or
Indicating position ; and in this Handbook we try as far as possible to
give the Norwegian form and avoid the awkward duplication of the
article presented in such a phrase as 'the Strand Gadcn' or 'the Konge-
veien\ The Swedish and Danish praclice coincides vvilh the Norwegian.
(*i) ' lit "\
tjeiil
Ml.,. 11. fc^.%^
UP Tieia ' • Ki
[aaifivigeix
KRISTIANSSAN&
1:30.000
'I Borsen
A Toldbodm
•i Doni/drken
■ogricpK- Anstall.'
5 RimiUiaset.
6 Xorgcs bank
I 7 Thaitrpt
UdderolM
lv.,c]iDri-nibos Li'ipi
CHRISTIANSANT). /. Route. 3
Gaden, skirting the main harbour, the others parallel with 0stTe
Strand-Giiden. It has an excellent harbour, at which all the coasting
steamers and others from England, Scotland, Germany, and Den-
mark touch regularly. Near the centre of the S.W. part of the town,
between Kaadhus-Gaden and Gyldenleves-Gaden, is the Cathedral
(PI. 4), rebuilt in the Gothic style after its destruction by lire in 1880.
It contains an altar-piece (Christ atEmmaus) by Eilif Petersen.
The Environs are picturesque. From the S. angle of the penin-
sula, where Vestre and 0stre Strand-Gaden meet, a bridge leads
to the Oddere, a rocky aiul fortified island. The Selyst Baths (p. 2)
lie to the right. The path in a straight direction passes the Qua-
rantine Hospital (situated on a hill to the left) and leads to the
right to the Peisftue (restaurant). The other parts of the Oddere
arc inaccessible on account of the fortilications.
Opposite the E. angle of the town , on the left bank of the
Otteraa, reached by a wooden bridge, is the Hamreheia (right), a
good point of view. — At the W. angle of the town, near the
station of the Satersdal Railway (p. 4), to the left, begins the road
to Mandal ('Vestreveien'), on which, to the right, beyond the ('/4M.)
briiige, lies the Bellevue (restaurant), with its pleasant grounds.
The Duehnipen, ascended hence, affords a fine view. — To the N. of
the railway-station, in Tordenskjolds-Gaden, begins the highroad
to the Sffitersdal (see below), the beginning of which is shaded with
lime-trees. To the left, a short way out, lies the pretty Cemetery,
which contains the graves and monument of the Danes who fell in
the naval battle of Heligoland (1864). Farther on we cross a bridge
and the Saitersdal Railway. On this side of the next bridge, about
1 M. from the town, we take the path to the right, leading to the
Ravnedal. In 10 min. \\q reach a pond, where rfmts. may be
obtained. Thence we ascend abruptly along the rocky wall to the
left to (25 min.) the *Ravnefjeld (view). We now descend to the
S.W. to (•/4 hr.) the Sffitersdal road, or we may proceed from Rav-
nedalen to the N.E. to the Egsasyl and return thence to the town
by the right bank of the Otteraa.
About 3 M. to the W. of Ravneda]en rises the Graamandshtia (810ft.). —
On the right bank of the Otteraa, S'/z M. up, are the '■Oinvtndte Baud''
(a land-mark) and Oddersjaa, commanding a pleasing view of the river,
its mouth, and the sea. — Steamers ply twice daily from Christiansand
up the TopdaU/jord, the N. prcilongation of the Christiansands-Fjord, to
Uunene and fioe«, on the Toi)dals-Elv (there and back 272-3 hrs.).
A trip by steamboat or electric launch may be taken to the Oxe, with
it.s lijihthou.'e and meteorological station, and to the (() JI.) Flekker0, on
which stands the Slgn'ryaard Hanatcrium, opened in 1903 (R. l'/-.'-2 kr.,
H. 70 0., D. IV2, S. 174 kr.), with sea-baths, promenades, and extensive view.
The Ssetersdal.
Itinerary. 1st Day. By Railway to (78 Kil.) 2Jy</Zfm(/4/?wd (33/4-4 hrs. ^
fares 3 kr. 90, 2 kr. b) 0.) and thence by Steamkk to (35 Kil.) Ose (S'/a-ilirs- ;
fare 1 kr. 80 n.) <ir tn Mfj Kil.) Lnngeid (4-4V.' hrs.; fare 2 kr. 30 0.). —
2ud Day. By R(jai. (skyds) to KUv-n. — 3rd Day. Skyds to Flateland, and
1*
4 Route 1. BYOI.ANDSFJORD. Slwtemlnl.
thence on foot, with guide, to (4>/a hrs.) the club-hut on the Store Bjerne-
vand. — 4tb Day. Ou foot to Dalen^ a walk of fully 12 hr-i. — As an alter-
native we may drive (skyds) on the 3rd day to Bykhmi^ and walk or ride
thence on the 4th day to (iO-11 hrs.) Bredvik, whence a long day's walk
or ride (12-li hrs.) brings us on the 5th day to the SuldaUvand. — Coaip.
the 'Oversigtskart' of the Christiansand Tourist Society (1 kr.) and Abraham-
son s 'Reisehaandbog over Sa'tersdalen' (3 kr.). The Tourist Society has
arranged the following official tarifl" for its huts: bed 1, warm supper I'/a,
breakfast 1/2 kr. The prices at the tourist-stations are not much higher.
The Saieradal, a valley ruiming to the N. of Christiansand,
ahout 230 Kil. (143 Engl. M.) in length, and watered by the Ot-
teraa or Torrisdals-Eiv, is interesting both for its scenery and the
primitive character of the inhabitants , a tall, strongly-bnilt race,
wlio still cling to their old dress and customs.
The narrow - gauge Railway ascends the right bank of the
Otteraa , passing numerous farms. 7 Kil. Kv ernv olden , with the
farms of Stray. At (10 Kil.) Mosby, with its cotton-mill, we cross
the river. From (15 Kil.) Vennesld a short branch-line runs to
Vigeland and the paper - mill of Hundnfossen. Beyond (20 Kil.)
Orovene the train recrosses to the right bank. 28 Kil. Reiknes ;
35 Kil. Iveland; 39 Kil. Qaaseflaa. From (44 Kil.) Hceyeland, on
the KUefjord (460 ft.), a road leads to Aaserals Hotel in the Mandal
(75 Kil.; p. 90). 52 Kil. Hornesund; 56 Kil. Moisund; 63 Kil.
Hornnces. We cross a long bridge. Near (67 Kil.) Evje (Hot. Delen)
are the nickel and copper mines of Evje Nikkelvark and many tombs
of the 5th or 6th century. About 17 Kil. to the N.E., on Lake
Hearing, is the tourist-station of Lauvaas (1850 ft.). — 74 Kil.
Systveit.
78 Kil. Byglandsfjord [Hotel, very fair, D. li/gkr.), also called
Breidahiik, lies at the S. end of the Byglandsfjord, a lake 221/2 M.
long, traversed by the Otteraa.
The Stbamee. Journey on the Byglandsfjord is very pleasant.
The S. part of the lake, enclosed by low and steep hills, is called
the Aardalsfjord. On the right rises the Aardalsnut (2510 ft.). We
then pass the church of AardaL The steamer rounds a promontory
with the farms of Freirak and Berg and enters the Byglandsfjord
proper. On the right are the steep Foneklev, which the road crosses,
and the church of —
Byglaud, at the foot of the Lysheia (2770 ft.). The steamer
stays here 2 hrs. The sanatorium called S(tlersdalens Sommerhjem
(80 beds; lishing to be had), about '-^/i M. from the pier, is recom-
mended for a visit of some duration (Engl. Ch. Service in summer).
The navigable channel narrows. Beyond Urdviken, amidst fine
mountain-scenery, the steamer passes through a lock (beyond whii'h
it cannot go when the water is low) and under the bridge which
carries the highroad back to the W. bank, and reaches the Aaraks-
fjord, the N. part of the Byglandsfjord. On the E. bank of the fjord
is the church of Scindnas. On the W. bank, on the highroad, lies
Freittnies (quarters at Ole Torbjernseii's, with beds for tourists).
S(Ptcrsd(il. BYKLUM. /. Route. O
About 2 lirs. after leaving Bygland the steamer reaches Ose
(quarters at T. J. HeUtacVs), which is 18 Kil. from Bygland by the
highroad. One of the farm-houses here possesses two interesting
old Stabbure and several curiosities , including old bridal orna-
ments. A little farther up the valley is the church of Osstad.
The Road follows the AV. bank of the river, skirts iheRudfjeld
(3510 ft.), and passes the gaard of Langeid, which the steamer
sometimes reaches if the height of the water serves (10 Kil. from
Ose; i hr.). Good quarters may be obtained at Tarald Rysstad's
gaard of Gmneheim, about 4 Kil. from Langeid.
From Graneheim a fatiguing mountain-path leads via the l3'/-.> hrs.)
tourist-station o( Hcegsteil (18T0'; quarters) to the (4'/-.>-5V2 hrs.) tourist-hut
on the Gfwkheivaud (2525'; quarters; lishing to be had), whence we may
proceed (a day"s march in either case; gaide and provisions necessary) tn
the S. to Aaserals Hotel (p. CO), or to the X.W. to the Lysefjord (p. 93).
17 Kil. Besteland (modest quarters, with beds for tourists).
About 8 Kil. farther on is the church of Hyllestad.
At Flaarenden, about 15 Kil. from Besteland, the road crosses
to the E. bank of the river. Scenery grander. To the left are the
HaUondifos, a waterfall with some of the largest 'giant's cauldrons'
in Norway, one of them 26 ft. deep, and the Skuggebcekfos.
15 Kil. Viken i Valle (Hot. Vallorheim. kept by Dreng Bjernaraa ).
The church of Valle has an altar-piece by Fed. Barocci. The gaard
of Aamlid, to the W. of the river, contains an ancient 'Aarestue'.
The Svamarnut (4525 ft.), ascended from Aamlid, is a fine point of
view. The gaard of Homme, near Valle, also afl'ords a good view.
From Viken the Bispevei ('Bishop's Way), the be.st of the bridle-
Iracka leading out of the upper Siftersdal, joins the road mentioned at
p. 39 about 6 Kil. to the S. of Vfum (12-13 hrs.; horse and guide from
Viken to Veum about 14 kr.). From Veum we proceed via Midigaarilen to
Bandakslid or to Dalen (p. .39), where we join the main Telemarken route
from Skien to Odde.
From Aamlid over the mountains to Aardal on the SUivanger Fjord
(p. 93), two days; guide 12-14 kr.
Travelling by 'skyds' ends at Viken. But we may drive on (o
Flateland (about 12 Kil. from Viken), where the mountain-route
to Dalcii diverges (see p. IV), or beyond Flateland (with a view of
tlic old Ihjktestig, a flight of steps 140 fr. high ascending the nioiiii-
tain-slope), passing the Biikle Kirke, to —
32 Kil. Byklum (1800 ft.; Ole Drertgsen's hin, rustic but good).
Near it is the Sarvfos. the highest waterfall (100 ft.) of the Otteraa,
which we reach by a good path (there and back 1 hr. ; guide).
About 2 M. to the W. of Byklum lies the Bosvand (1750 ft.; S'A M. long),
at the W. end of which is Brattelid i Bykle. Rough paths, crossing
several torrents, lead thence to the W. to the Hjetenfjord (p. 94) and
to the N.W. to iiiestad on \\ie. Suldalsvand (p. 96), each 15-16 hr,= . (guide).
A fair road on the "W. bank of the river (horse and guide 8 kr.)
ascends past the gaards (where bread, coffee, and milk only are to
be had) of Huslcmo and 0rnefjeld to (lO'/ahrs.) the gaard of —
35 Kil. Bredvjk or Brcive (tourist -beds and scanty fare at
Kiiud Alfficiis).
6 lioute 1. LILLESAND. From Chrialian^iand
From Flateland to Daj.en, 1'/2 day (guide 8 kr., with horse
22 kr.). This mountain-pass, lately iniprovcd, is one of the hcst
ways for leaving the Ssetersdal. The path ascends by the gaard of
Eygnestad (with a 16th cent, 'stahbur' or storehouse) and leads past
the kettle-shaped Vaiagjnv to the Lille Bjernevand (1.) and to the
lower end of the Store Bjernevfind. According to the regulations
of the 'Turistforening', there should always be a boat here for cross-
ing the lake. If not, we cross the outflow of the lake and walk on
from the N. bank to the Bjmncvandsliylten (ca. 4'/2 h^s. from Flate-
land), a club-hut where the night is spent. Next day we ascend still
farther and then follow the ridge, passing several lakes and s.-cters
and crossing small streams, to Kjenningsvik, the first srcter in Tele-
niarken, and the gaard of Orimedalcn (ca. 9 hrs. from the dub-hut).
A good path, affording a view of the Bandaksvand and passing near
the Skafse-Kirke, descends hence to (3 hrs.) Dalen (p. 39).
The Mountain Koutk from Bredvik to the Suldalsvand
(13-14 hrs., incl. rest of 2-3 hrs.) is very fatiguing and can hardly be
made without the aid of horse and guide (from Bredvik to Boaldkvam
14 kr.). Provisions have to be brought from Christiansand or
Sommcrhjem. The route leads at first over much marshy ground
and crosses several strong and sometimes violent streams, some of
which are unprovided with bridges. The passage of the huge Meien-
fjeld, where reindeer are often seen, is, however, interesting. In
descending from the head of the pass (ca. 3940 ft.) we have fre-
quently to dismount and let the guide lead the horse. Vast snow-
fields and smooth granite rocks are traversed, while around rise
the ice and snow-bound peaks of lofty mountains. There is a club
hut at the saeters of Bleskestadmoen. Finally we make a steep de-
scent to the gaard of Bleskestad, whence a good path leads to (6 Kil.)
Roaldkvam, where plain but satisfactory quarters arc obtained. From
Roaldkvam to Ncrs (p. 97), 1/2 l»r. by boat (li/okr.).
Less interesting is the route from Bredvik to the Beii-te Hotel, on the
Bertcrand (p. 40), or the path up the Ssetersdal from Bredvik to (15 Kil.)
Bjaa, the hiehest gaard in the valley (beds at Knud Bjjrrguf sen's), and to
Flaathyl on the Havkeli Road (p. 41). Each of these routes takes a day.
From Christiansand to Christiania.
Steamboats of the 'Sommer-Postrute' daily in 20 hrs. (fares 15 kr.
60, 9 kr. (5 0.); distance, as the crow flies, 39 ^Norwegian S.M., or
156 Engl. M. ; 12 stations. The voyage is chiefly Hndenskjmrt\ i.e. within
the Skjoergaard, or belt of islands which flanks the coast, where the
water is perfectly smooth. We give the distances in Norwegian sea or
nautical miles (S. M.) from station to station (.see Introd., p. vi).
The voyage presents no special attraction till we enter the
Christiania Fjord. The vast extent of sea studded with rocky is-
lands has the effect of dwarfing the scenery. Several of the coast
hills rise to 2300 ft. , and are often well wooded though they appear
bare from a distance.
Lillesand (Hot. Norgc; Lloyd's agent, Mr. T. ff. Hansen), with
to Chriatiania. KRAGER0. 1. Route. 7
1600 inliab. (narrow-gauge railway to Flaksvand, 17 Kil.), and
Grimstad (Hot. Victoria; Lloyd's agent, Mr. A. Isachsen), with
3000 inhab., are tlie first stations. Between the two is the Hom-
borgsundfyr. — A picturosqne channel, with two lighthouses ( Torun-
geme)^ leads between the Hise and Trome to the Galtesund and —
lOS.M. Arendal (Grand Hotel, on the quay, H. l'/2-3, B. 1,
D. 2, S. ll/okr.; Fenix, near the church, both very fair; Brit, vice-
consul, Mr. M. Kallevig; U.S. Com. Agent, Mr. C. Eyde), with
11,500 inhab. (incl. the suburbs), picturesquely situated on the
hill rising over the mouth of the Nid-Elv. It is a busy trading and
ship-building place, and has an excellent harbour. The Gothic brick
church, with its lofty spire, was built by Christ. Fiirst. Fine view
from a small terrace planted with trees above the quay, including
the small towns of Kolhjernsvik ( on Hise) and Rajvcsand (on Trome ).
The Stintehei, above the town, commands a more extensive view.
A posting - road leads from Arendal to (U Kil.) Bvmkke i Moltind
and (18 Kil.) the small seaport of Tvedesfrand, then inland by (14 Kil.)
Vlievg to (18 Kil.) Simonstad, at the N. end of Lake Nelaagfjord, amidst
fine woods, where the beaver still occurs. A shorter route is by the
direct road to (35 Kil.) the Nelaagfjord, and thence by boat (to be ordered
by telephone from Simonstad) across the Fjord to (G Kil.) Simonstad. —
From Simonstad to the Nifservand, coiiip. p. 38.
Farther on, to the left, we see the little town of Bnrbo, adjoin-
ing Arendal on theN. The banks of the Tromesund, through which
the steamer steers towards the N. , are finely wooded. Numerous
settlements and wharves are seen on both sides. Near the N. end
of the sound, to the left, stands the Flangstnd- Kirke. Farther on we
p:iss the Mekkelasfyr, marking the entrance of the Oxefjord (for
Tvedestrand, see above), and then the Lxjnger.
6 S.M. Riser (Rnic\ Thiis, Hotel Riser, both by the pier, and well
spoken of; Busch, in the town; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. A. F. Finne;
Lloyds agent, Mr. H. C. Malbach), a town of 3400 inhab., beyond
which the coast is unprotected for some distance,
4 S.M. Kragere ^Central Hotel, 5 min. from the pier, R. 2,
D. 2, S. ll/okr. ; Grand Hotel; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. Tom Parker),
a busy trading port with 5200 inhab., opposite the island of that
name. It contains a large church by G. Bull, and a monument, by
Middelthun, to Prof. Schweigaard (p. 13), a native of the place.
Passing the latter, we reach (7 min.)the terrace above the town, with
a large school and a bust of King Oscar II. (*View). — Apatite, a kind
of phosphate abounding in the environs, yields artificial manure.
From Kran:er0 a posting-road leads by (10 Kil.) Sleien, (17 Kil.) Lenws
on the Totevand, and (21 Kil.) Bolle i Drangedal to (18 Kil.) Be. Beavers are
still found in C(in-iiderablc numbers on the Lilb'. JSnrand, in the Drangedal.
— From Ii/5 by road (about 30 Kil. more) to Strand i Vraadal (p. 38).
The coasting steamers pass through the picturesque Langesund,
a very narrow strait between precipitous rocks (particularly narrow
at the Kreppa, orN. end), while the large steamers follow tlie wider
channel passing the lighthouse (r.) on Jomfruland. Langesund
8 Route 1. HANK0. Christiania
( Wright's Hotel; Rye's Hotel), with 1400 iiiliab., lies on the Lnnge-
xunds-Fjord, which is prolonged to the N. by the Eidanger Fjord
and the Frierfjord, the latter extending to Skien. To the right
rises the lighthouse Lnngesunds-Fyr.
From LAJfOEsnND to Porsgrund and Skien via Brkvik, 2? Kil.,
steamer several times daily, except Snnday, in 2'/2-3 hrs. Soon after
starting vre touch at Brevik (p. 35). A steam of ^ji hr. on the Frierfjord
brings u'l to Porsgrund (p. Sri), whence we ascend the Skient-Elv in ^jt hr.
more to Skien (p. 36).
The steamer, unproteeted hy islands, next passes the Nevlung-
havn, and thei\ enters the pretty approach, past the -Svenner/i/r and
the Fredriksvarn-Fyr, to Fredriksvcern, with 1300inhah., formerly
a small fortress. The Mellerhjerg affords a fine sea-view. ■ — Wc
now steer to the N. through the Laurvik-Fjord to —
7 S. M. (from Kragere) Lanrvik (p. 36).
Farther on, the steamer passes the mouth of the Laagen to the
E. and rounds the furrowed Hummerberge. It then crosses the
mouth of the Sandefjord , at the N. end of which lies the little
town of that name (p. 35), with sulphur and sea baths.
The Farder-Fyr, on a cliff to the right, indicates the entrance
to the Christiania Fjord, which, with its broad basins, studded with
islands, and its river-like narrows, extends towards the N. for about
50 M. It is enclosed by rocky banks of moderate height, wooded
with birches and pines, and enlivened with numerous villages, at
which none of the larger steamers touch. Geologically considered,
it may be described as a rent or chasm in the primaeval mountains,
with sunken layers of Silurian slate and limestone overlaid by
masses of volcanic rock (diabase, syenite, porphyry, and granite).
The same varied formation characterises the whole district from
Langesund (p. 7) to the Mjtisen (p. 61).
On the left are the Tensberg-Tende , a promontory on which
many a ship has been wrecked, at the mouth of the Tensberg-Fjord
(comp. p. 34), and the Tjeme. On the Bolaren (to the right) is
found a much-prized dark variety of syenite, with veins of irrides-
ccnt blue feldspar running through it, which, when polished, is
known as Labrador Stone.
On the E. coast, in the distance, to the N. of the confluence of
the Single Fjord (p. 83), is the beacon of Torgauten, and beyond
that, close to the E. coast, lies the island of Hanke, the most
frequented and fashionable of Norwegian bathing-resorts, with four
hotels (R. i^/i-b, board 31/2 tr.), a large sanatorium (Dr. Gran),
numeious villas, splendid pine-woods, lawn-tennis courts, a view-
tower, and other attractions. (All information may be obtained
from the inspector at the baths; steamers ply daily to Ohri^tianin,
Fredrikstad, and Fredrikshald.)
On the W. coast lie Valle, a small manufacturing town with
petroleum -refliierics (31/0 l^'- from Tensberg, p. 34); Aaf^gaard-
stranden, a commercial town and sea-bathing resort; "Rorten^Serhye'a
Fjord. DK015AK. 1. Route. 9
Hotel, very fair; Victoria Hotel), a town with 8400 inhab. ; and
h'arl-Johansvo'rn, the principal Norwegian government dockyard,
with its quays and a brick church. Railway to Holmestrand, see p. 34.
On the E. shore of the fjord, behind the island of Hjelle, lies
Moss (p. 80), at which several of the larger steamers touch.
The fjord now expands to a breadth of about 12 Engl. M. On the
left opens the Drammens-Fjord (p. 24). We next enter a strait nar-
rowing to l/o M., about 91/2 M. long, which connects the outer with
the inner Christiania Fjord. On the right lies the next station —
Drebak, a pleasant watering-place, with 2200 inhab., numerous
villas , and a marine biological station , directed by Christiania
University. We pass the fortified islets of Oscarsborg and the
bleak Haa-0, beyond which the inner fjord expands. To the
N.W. now appear the porphyry ranges of the Kolsaas (1210 ft.),
the Skougumsaas (1140 ft.), and, farther to the W., the Vnrdekolle
(p. 23). On the left bank is the cement-factory of *Siemmes<ad. In
the fjord are the islands of S tell ene, with large tanks of petroleum,
and Elgjames, with sea-baths. At the promontory of Ncesodtangen
(lighthouse), on the E. side of the fjord, we come in sight of
Christiania, with the conspicuous palace on the hillside, the for-
tress of Akershus in the foreground, and the Tryvandshfidde (with
Frognersaeter, p. 20) rising In the distance: a beautiful picture.
The vessel steers past several islands : oti the left the Linde
and the Hovede (with interesting strata of greenstone); on the
right the OrashQlm and the lileke, beyond which we obtain a fine
glimpse of the Bundefjord, with its numerous country-houses. We
land at the Bjervik, the harbour proper of Christiania (see below).
2. Christiania and Environs.
Arrival. The large Steamers land their passonger.q in BJerviken, or the
K. harbour, near the Custom Hou.'^e (Toldbod ; PI. F, 4). The cnstom-tioiise
cxaroinatinn takes place on board the .steamer. Porlcrajje from the steamer
to the hotels: 50 0. for 65 lbs. or under (only porters with badges should he
employed). Cabs (see p. 10) are generally scarce; but a boy (20 0.) may
be sent to fetch one from the Jernbane-Torv, near the harbour. — Railwav
Station.? : J^st-Jinnegaard, or Hoted-Bnnegaard (PI. F, 4), for the trains to
Fredrikshald and GuihenI urg (II. 13), L'harlottenl)urg and .Stockholm
(R. 12), llamar and Trondhjem (R. 11), Hamar and Gudbrandsdal (R. 9),
and GJBvik and the Valders (R. 8()). The trains for Telemarken alone start
from the l'e$t- Banegaard (PI. U, 4). Porterage and cabs thence to the
hotels, as above. Omnibuses of the larger hotels, 75 0.-1 kr. The customs-
examination of registered luggage from abroad (or from Sweden) takes
place at the ifcJst-Banegaard.
Hotels (coiiip. p. XXV; the chief all with electric light and baths).
tiRANn lloTiiL (PI. g; K, 3), Carl-.Tohans-Gaden 31, at the corner of Eosen-
kranlz-Gaden, near the Kidsvolds-Plads, with lift and hot-air heating,
K. from 3, 1',. 1, lunch 2V2, D. (2-5 p.m.) 2-3, S. (8-11 p.m.) 2 kr. ; Victoria
(PI. V; F, 4), at the corner of RaadUus-Gatlen and Dronningens-Oaden,
R. 2V2-8, P. 1, ]">. (2.30 p.m.) 3'/2 kr. — Skandinavif, (PI. s; F, 4),
at tlic corner of Oiirl - Johans - Gadeii and Drunningens - G;iden , cpiict,
R. 2-6, 11. 1, D. 2i/», S. lV2kr.; Ah^ustin, Toldbod-Gaden 2i, with lilt.
10 Route 2. CHUISTIANIA. Practical
R. l'A-6, B. 1, D. l'/2, S. 1 kr. (cafe im the mezzanine floor), very fair. —
Hotel du Boulevaro (Pl.b; E,3), Storthings-GadenS, second floor, E.3-7kr.,
luneh 93 f(., D. l-2'/2kr., Hotel Continental, at the corner of Stortliings-
CJaden and Klingenberg-Gaden (PI. E, 3), second and third floor, with lift,
R. 2-5, B. 3/4-I, D. 2-3, S. 2 kr., these two with cafe on the groundfloor and
restaurant on the first floor; National, Storthings-Oaden 14, at the corner
of Torden.skjolds-Gaden, second and third floor, to the S. of the Eidsvolds-
Plads, with lift, R. 2-6, B. l-l'/-.-, D. 2-21/2, S. I1/2 kr. — Private Hotels
(generally on the upper floors of large houses, and managed by women,
with Norwegian servants, though in those of the better class En^ilish or
German is spoken). S^stkene Larsen, Carl-Johans-Gaden 39, with electric
light and lift, English spoken; Belvedere, Carl-Johans-Gaden 35, R. 2-6 kr.,
B. 70 0., I>. 2, S. l'/.^kr. ; Nobkl, Carl-Johans-Gaden 33; Metkopole, Carl-
Johans-Gaden, corner of Kongens -Gaden ; Scheen, Prindsens-Gaden 26b,
with lift and baths, R. 2-4 kr., B. 70 «r., D. (2.30-3) 2, S. IV2 kr. ; Fru Bte,
Akers-Gaden 26, corner of Carl-Johans-Gaden, R. li/j .5, B. 1, D. 1",2, S. 1 kr. ;
Fr(*ken Meter (English, French, & German spoken), Storthings-Gadcn 10,
R. l'/2-3V2, B. 1, 1). 13/,, S. 1, pens. 5-6 kr. ; Westminster, Storthings-Gadcn,
corner of Rosenkrantz-Gaden, same charges ; Tostrltgaaruen's Hotel, Cai 1-
Johans -Gaden 25; Bkllevue, Kirke- Gaden 36, R. 11/2-31/2 kr., B. 80 «r,
I). IVi S. 1 kr.
Cafes-Restaurants. "Grand Hotel a,nA ffot. Dotderard, with seats in the
open air, on the Eidsvods-Plads, see above : Logen, in the Freemasons"
Lodge (p. 13), 1). (1-4.30 p.m.) 2-4 kr. ; 'Tostrupganrden's Caff, Carl-Johans-
Gaden 25: HohenzoUern, Carl-Johans-Gaden .39; Duval, Akers-Gaden 16;
•Restaurant in the park of St. Banshaugen, (sec p. 17); 'lioiird Yacht Club
Restrnirrint, On the island of Dronningen (with open terrace), D. 3 kr. —
Confectioners. Halverson, Prinsens-Gaden 26; Avreseii, 0vre Slots-Gaden 10;
Melhorn, Carl-Johans-Gaden 23, corner of Akers-Gaden.
Cabs. The fares subjoined are for one-horse cabs in the Inner Town,
to which nearly the whole of the area of our Plan belongs. The driver
is called '■Vognmand\ Per drive for 1, 2, 3, or 4 pers. 50, 60, 80 0., 1 kr. ;
per hour (1-4 pers.) I1/2 kr. ; for each addit. pers. 25 0.' At night (11 p.m.
to 8 a.m. from 1st May to 30th Sept. ; 10 p.m. to 9 a.m. during the rest
of the year) : one pers. 80 0., 2 pers. 1 kr., 3 pers. 1 kr. 30, 4 pers. 1 kr. 500.
Luggage up to 66 lbs. free.
Electric Tramways (uniform fare 10 0., or with transfer 15 0.). The
stations of main interest to si rangers are near the Storthings-Bygning
(PI. E, 3, 4; p. 13). Just to the W. of this, in the EidsvoldsPlads, the
lines from the i^st-Banegaurd (PI. F, 4) to Ukarj^sno (PI. A, 3; p. 18), to
Majorstuen (PI. C, 1; p. 20), and to Frogner (PI. B, 2, 1), which f.illow the
same rails to beyond the Slotspark , intersect with the line from
Munkedams-Veien (PI. D, 4) to Griinerlekken (PI. G, 1, 2), iSandaker, and
Grefsen (p. 52). The line from Homanshy (PI. D, 2) to Oslo (PI. H, 5), with
branch-lines to Vaalerengen and Kampen, also pa?ses close by, while along
Carl-Johans-Gaden. en the N. side of the Storthings-Bygning, run the
lines from the Fmslnings-Brygge to St. Hanshaugen (PI. E, 1 ; p. 17),' and from
the Fcestnmgs-Bnjgge to Bodelekken (PI. H, 1), and to Sagene, etc.
Boats in the Baadhavn (PI. F 5, D, 4), for rowing or sailing, with man,
about 11/2 kr. per hour (no fixed tarilT). Often difficult to find a boatman
(Baadmand, Fmrgemand).
Post and Telegraph Offices (PI. F, 4), corner of Kirke-Gaden and Carl-
Johans-Gaden. Post Office ojien from 8 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. ; Sundays 8-9 a.m.
and 5-6 p.m. Telegraph Office daily from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. ; also at night
for foreign telegrams. — Telephone Stations ('Talestationer') in various
parts of the town (fee 10 0.).
Banks (open 10-2). A'^orsk Credit-Bank, Kirke-Gaden 24-; Christiania
Bank og Credit- Kasse, Stor-Torvet, W. side; Norges Bank, Bank-Plads;
Central-Banken for Norge, Toldbod-Gaden 20; Christiania Privat-Bank, Carl-
Johans-Gaden 2; Handels-Bank, Prjnds'ns-Gadcn 9. Circular notes may
136 changed at any of these.
\otes. CHRISTIANIA. 2. Route. H
Consulates. British consul-general, ffon. Chat. S. Dtmdas, Prinsens-
Oailcn 9; vice-cnnsii], Mr. Edward F. Gray. American consul, Mr. Henry
Bordewich, Torvct 2-, vice-consul, Mr. L. Brona. — Lloyd's Agent, Mr. E
Thnrlijornsen, Skipper-Ciaden 14.
Shops. (Pnrchnses should not be made in the presence or by the advice ol
guides or couriers, as tlieir commission is apt to be added to the price.]
Booksellers: Atchehong <i- Co., Carl Juhans-Gaden 43, near the University;
Cammerm.eyer''s Bogliandel. Carl-Johans-Gaden 41 ; /. W. Cappelen, Kirke-
Gaden 15-, Dyhwad, Carl-Johans-Gaden 81. — Music Sellers: Bredrene Hals,
Slorthings-Gaden 26; Karl Warmulh and Olvf By, Carl-Johans-Gaden 2,5<fe 45.
— Jewellers (mited for filigree work and enamel): T. Prytz, successor of
J. Toslriip. Carl-Johans-Gaden 25, opposite the Storthing; TImne , Carl-
Johans-Gaden, 8. side, near 0vre Slots -Gaden; Andersen. Prin?ens-
Gadeii 12, corner of Kirke-Gaden; Den Norskc Filigrans-Fahrik, Carl-Johans-
Gaden 20, cor. of Akers-Gaden. — Wood Carvings, Embroidery, etc.: Den
Norske Hvs^flidsforcning, Carl-Johans-Gaden 45. — Art Dealers: Blomtvist,
Carl-Johans-Gaden 35 (pictures by Norwegian artists; adm. 50 «r.). — Photo-
{;raphic Articles: X<'.rlie7i, Nedre Slots-Gaden 13; Abel, 0vve. Slots-Gadcn 7,
Carl-Johans-Gaden 35 (dark room for tourist.s). — Travelling Requisites:
t^lei'ii tl- fitrem, Prinsens-Gadcn 23; W. Schmidt, Carl-Johans-Gaden 41. —
Stationery and Drawing Materials: Pnrmann & Co., Carl-Johans-Gaden 39. —
Sporting Articles (for hunting and fishing; ige-axes; snowshoes): Torgersen
<{: Co., Carl-.lohans-Gaden 25; Hagen d- Co., Kirke-Gaden 19. — Furs:
Baeker, Koiigens-Gaden 31. — Preserved Meats, etc.: C. J. Christophersen
if- Co., Carl-Johans Gaden, corner of Dronningens-Gaden, under the Hotel
Skandinavie; Bergwitz, Jfefvrc Slots-Gaden, at the corner of Carl-Jolians-
Gadcn. — Cigars: Havana Magasinel, Storthings-Plads, corner of Carl-Johans-
Gaden; Gleicrsen, Carl-Johans-Gaden 27; Lorentzen, Carl-Johans-Gaden 33.
Tourist Offices. T. Bennett og Senner, Carl-Johans-Gaden 35; F. Beyer
(manager, Uaralil Manning), Carl-Johans-Gaden 33, corner of Rosenkrantz-
Gaden (information concerning circular tickets, etc. ; large stock of ph<ito-
graphs, etc., at both of these); Thos. Cook if: Son, Akers-Gaden 20, behind
the Storlhings-Eygning. — Comp. Introd., p. xiv.
Steamers to London every second Thursday; to Hull on Fridays; to
Grangemouth (Glasgow) weekly; to Newcastle weekly; to Lirerpool fort-
niglitly; to Gotenhurg five times and to Copenhagen thrice weekly direct, and
once touching at Frederikshavn ; to Christian sand daily; to Bergen daily;
to Trondhjem four times weekly; to Hamburg. Amsterdam, Antwerp, etc.
All these vessels start from the Toldbod-Bryg^e. the Fff.'-tnings-Brygge, or
the Jernbane-Brygge (PI. D, K, 1). — Small steamers ply from the Jernbane
livsgi^e tci Moss, Horlen, Fredriksslad, etc., and from Piperviken to Fredriks-
borg (see p. 18). Comp. "Norges Communicationer'.
Baths. Christiania-Bad, at the corner of Munkedanisveien and Ring.s-
gangen, nearly opposite the University, with modern appliances. Turkish
baths, etc. — Bathing in the fjord: best on i\\e. Bygde (^. 17), a,i Bygdena's-
Bad (PI. A, 5), on the K., to which steamers plv every V< l""- from the
Piperviks-Brygge (PI. B, 7; D, E, 4); at Bnyde-Sehad (p. 18), on the W.,
to which steamers from Piperviken also ply hourly, in '/z hr. (bathing-
ticket, obtained in the restaurant at the wharf, 15-25 0.). The water of
the fjord is only slightlv salt. The rise and fall of the tide averages
1-2 ft. only.
Theatres. National Theatre (PI. E, 3) in the Eidsvolds - Plads (p. 13).
open in winter only, orchestra 5, parquet A 3V-', parquet B 3kr. ; Central
Theatre, Akers-Gaden H8, comedies; Eldorado, Torv-Gaden 9, near Stor-
Torvet, operettas and comedies. — At the Tivoli (PI. E, 3), Eidsvolds-
Plads. opposite the National Theatre, concerts and variety entertainments
daily (adm. 50 0., and various extra payments).
English Church (St. Edmund's), in M0ller-Gaden. Service at 11 a.m.
Chaplain, Rev. G. E. Mooney, M. A.
Chief Attractions. Walk throush Carl - Joh.ins - Gaden (p. 12). The
i /kings' Ships (p. 13; Sun., Mod., & Frid.. 12-2; at other times for a fee).
12 Route 2. CHRISTIANIA. History.
Afuseumo/Arl (p. 14; Sun., 12-2, Tues., Wed., Thurs.,& Frid., 12-3; at other
timea for a fee). Views from Si. Hanshangen{-p. 17) and OncarfhalH\>. 18).
The excursion to Frognersceter and the HolmenioUen (p. 20) and the steamer-
trip round the Fjord (p. 21) may be strongly recommended.
Christinnia , the capital of Norway , is beautifully situated at
the foot of pine-clad hills, at the N. end of the Christiania Fjord
and on the W. bank of the small Akers-Elv (in 59" 54' N. lat. and
10°50'E. long.). The mediaeval town of Oslo lay on the E..bank of
the river. It was founded by Harald Haardraada about 1050, and was
afterwards a station of the Hanseatic League. In the cathedral of
St. Halvard several Norwegian kings were interred, and .James I. of
England married Anne of Denmark here in 1589. In 1547 Oslo was
burned down by its inhabitants to prevent its falling into the hands
of Swedish besiegers, and it was again destroyed by Hre in 1624. The
same year Christian IV. of Denmark laid the foundation of the
modern town, to the N. of the old fortress of Akershus, and named
it after himself. In 1686, 1708, and 1858 Christiania suffered
severely from conflagrations. The population (almost entirely Pro-
testant) in 1815 was 11,000; in 1855 it was 32,000; in 1875 it
was 96,000; in 1885 it was 131,000; in 1894 it was 183,000; and
it is now estimated at 228,000.
Christiania is the seat of the Norwegian government, of the
supreme law-courts , of the Storthing or parliament, of a univer-
sity, and of a bishop. Its trade is considerable; the chief exports
arc timber, packing paper, paving stones, herrings and other flsh,
beer, and ice. The town owns about 150 sailing-vessels and 200
steamers. In and near the city are numerous engine-works, nail-
factores, ship-building works, breweries, cotton-mills, and paper-
factories. — Many of the most recent additions to the buildings of
Christiania are noteworthy for the handsome materials used in their
construction (granite, reddish syenite, and 'Labrador stone' ; see p. 8).
The principal street is Carl - Johans - Gauen (PL F 4, E 3),
extending from the Hoved - Baneyaard (principal railway-station;
PI. F, 4), at the E. end, to the Slot or palace at the W. end, a
distance of 8/4 M. Following this street from the station, we soon
reach (right) the Stok-Torv (PI. F, 3, 4; 'great market'), usually
known as Torvet ('the market'), with a Statue of Christian /V., by
Jacobsen (1874). On the E. side of the Torv rises the —
Vor Frelsers Kirke, or Church of Our Saviour , consecrated in
1697, and restored by C/idteaimet// of Hamburg in 1849-50. The
altar-piece is by i^. Steinle of Diisseldorf , and the marble font by
Fladager (p. 14). — In Torv-Gaden, to the N. of the Torv,
is the Dampkjjgkken {^ste&m kitchen'), founded in 1858, where about
2000 persons are daily provided with dinners for 25-50 0. each.
Beyond the Stor-Torv begins the busiest section of Carl-Johans-
Oadcii. Among the handsome shops may be noticed Tostrup-
Uaarden (No. 26), a striking edifice by Fiirst & llarestecn, adorned
Vniversily. CIIRISTIANIA. 2. Route. 13
with wrought iron-work. — On the S. side of the street stands
the —
Storthings-Bygning (PI. F, 3j, or hall of the Norwegian Par-
liament, designed by Langlet, and completed in 1866. The chief
fa(;ade, flanked with two lions in granite by Borch, looks towards
the Eidsvolds-Plaus, a handsome square planted with trees. The
interior is shown by the 'Vagtmester' or custodian (to be found at the
entrance from Storthings - Gaden, on the S. side; fee ^/okr.).
The Storthing s-Sal contains a large painting by Oscar Wergeland,
representing the first discussion of the Norwegian constitution
(p. Ixxvii). — In Akers-Gaden, to the S. of the Storthing Build-
ing, is a monument to the poet J. H. Vessel (d. 1785). Opposite is
tlie Masonic Lodge (1893), by H. Nissen (cafe and restaurant, see
\). 10). — In the Eidsvolds-Plads is a statue of the poet Henrilc
Wtnjelaii^l Id. 184;')), by Bergslien. On the W. side of this Plads
rises the National Theatre (Fl. E, ?>), erected in 1895-99 hy Henrik
JJall, with colossal statues of Ibsen and Bjernson by Stephen Sind-
ing. Beyond is a bronze statue of Johan Brtinn, the actor, by
B. Bergslien. — At No. 14 Storthings-Ciaden is the Art Union.
The University (PI. E, 3), founded by Frederick VI. of Denmark
in 1811, has five faculties with 63 professors and 20 lecturers, whose
coiiises are attended by about 1400 students. It consists of three
buildings, and was erected in 1841-53 by Grosch, whose design was
partly suggested by Schinkel of Berlin. The central building, in
front of which rises a statue of the Norwegian jurist and politician
Ant. Martin Sckweigaard (d. 1870), by Middelthun, contains lecture-
rooms and scientific collections. The E. wing, known as the
Domus Academica, contains the Aula ; the Collection of Northern
Antiquities here is to be transferred to the new Historical Museum
(p. 15). In the W. wing is the Library (375,000 vols.).
In the court at the back of the central building of the Univer-
sity are woodeu sheds containing two ^Vikings' Ships (Sun., Mon.,
& Frid., 12-2 ; at other times shown by the 'Vagtmester', who lives
on the groundfloor of the central building; fee 25 0.). These will
also be shortly transferred to the new Historical Museum (p. 15).
As the ancient Germanic kings were buried with their war-steeds, so
the Viking chiefs were laid to rest with their arms and their treasures in
their ships. Cine of the two sliown here vvas found at Thune in the Auit
of Smaalene in 1867, and the other at Gogstad, near Sandefjord (p. 34),
in 1880; and both owe their preservation from decay to the blue clay in
which they were imbedded. The ship from Gogstad, in the newer shed,
is the better preserved. Its total length from stem to stern is 112 ft.,
length of keel G6 ft., breadth 16 ft. To the mast in the centre a large
Square-sail was attached by means of a pulley. In the third plank from
the top are sixteen rowlocks. The rudder was placed on the right side
(whence 'starboard', originally the .steering side). By the mast vvas placed
the wooden tomb-cliamher, which was found empty, having probably been
pillaged at an early period. — The other ship is in fragments. The older
slied in which these lie al.so contains several old chunli-paintiugs from
the llallingdal.
14 Route 2. CHRISTIANIA. Museum of Art.
To the N. of the University, in Universitets-Gaden, is the
*Museum of Art (Kunsimusttt; PI. E, 3j, built in the Italian Re-
naissance style by Adolf Srhmncr, and presented to the town by
the Christiania Savings Bank. Wings uncompleted. Admission on
Sun., 12-2, and on Tues., Wed., Thurs., and Frid., 12-3; at other
times on application to the 'Vagtmester' (on the W. side of the
building; fee '/2-I kr.).
The Ground Floor contains the Sculpture Gallery (historical
and critical catalogue by Prof. Dietrichson, 50 e.). The Vestibule
and three adjoining Rooms contain the Casts of Ancient Sculptures,
and the Staircase and Hall the Casts of Renaissance and Modern
Sculptures. The following original works may also be noted: in the
vestibule, Aid. S. Sinding (h. 1846), Mother bearing her fallen son
from the battle; on the staircase, 117, IIH. F/arfat/er (1832-71),
Angel with font (model and sketch); Krist. Borch (1817-90), 395.
Jephthah's Daughter, HOO. The fir t lesson, 397. David; 420.
Math. Skeihrok (b. 1851 j, Uagnar Lodbrok among the serpents.
A double staircase ascends to the Upper Floor, which contains
tlie National Gallery, founded in 1837. At the head of the stair-
case is the vestibule, with Sinding's *Man and Wife and Viye-
land's Sleeping Girl. It also contains the Netherlandish and earlier
Norwegian pictures. To the left is the main room of the early
schools. (Here also are a marble bust of Bjernson, by Vigeland, and
the Captive Mother, by Sindiny.) — The works of Norwegian painters
begin In the room to the right of the vestibule, and are continued
through the next and three smaller rooms to the room next to that
reserved for the old masters. The representative names among Nor-
wegian artists include J. C. C. Dahl, who became professor in the
Academy of Arts at Dresden in 1824; Eckersberg, Cappelen, Morten
Midler, Arbo, Stoltenberg-Lerche, Munthe, and other artists wlio
clustered round Ad. Tidemand and H.F. Gude at Diisseldorf betsveen
1850 and 1870; Amaldus Nielsen, Oito Sinding, and others who
studied somewhat later at Carlsruhe and Munich; and, lastly, Fritz
Tbaulow, Krogh, Eilif Petersen, Skredsoig, Werenskiold, N. G. Wentzel,
F.Kolsle, G. Munthe, and other 'Impressionist' masters of the present
day, who studied in Paris. — Historical and critical catalogue by
Prof. Dietrichson, 1 kr.
The collection is annually extended and is frequently re-arranged.
We mention the most important works in the alphabetical order of their
painters' names, which are attached to the frames. The most recent
acquisitions bear no numbers.
Ancient Masters. Italian School: *1. Old copy of Leonardo da VincPs
Blona Lisa; 12. B. Strozzi, The tribute -money. • — Flemish and Dutch
.Schools: '-'22. Pieter Claeissens, Portrait of himself; 24. Francken the
Elder, The works of charity; 28. Pourbus the Younger, Portrait; 32. Al.
Adriaenssen, Still-life; 34. Jac. Jordaens, Allegorical representation of
the blessings of the Peace of Westphalia ; *38. Jan Fiji, Fight between dogs
and wolves; ''59. Ilellemans, Forest-scene, with sheep by /. Verboeckhoven ;
03. Mierevelt, Portrait ; '71. RavesUyn, Portrait of a woman ; 73. J. run Goyen,
Sea-piece; *'81. Jan Davidsz de J/eem, Oysters and Khenish wine; 84. tSchool
National Gallery CIIRISTIANIA. ?. Route. 15
of 0. Doitf Sclioolmaster; SG. £. van der Heist (V), Man with a ylass of wine ;
91. 0. LuMtltns, Jlau and wife; "1U4. M. cf I/ondecoete); i)og, cat, and game.
— Herman .School : 134, 135. Jlari/t. Behmn, Portraits of 'Hans Lissalcz'
and 'Magdalena Pittricliin' ; Lucas Cranach, Nynipb, Garden of Love.
Modern Foreign Masters. *145. Seibold, Portrait of a man; 165, 167.
Anion Graffs Portraits; 17C. C. F. Lessing, Scene On the Rhine; Til.
H. Jovduii, Family worship; 180, 181. A. Achenbach, Beach at Scheve-
ningen; 1S3. 0. Achenbach, Italian landscape — French Masters: 328.
Claude Monet, Showery weather at Etretat; 329. Raff'aelli, Sunny street.
Norwegians. 279. P. N. Arbo fl831-92), Asgaardsreien ('The Wild
Hunt'); 281. A. Askevold (b. 18134), Summer's day on a mountain-lake;
'241. Baade (1808-79), Moonlight on the Norwegian coast; Harriet Bakler
(b. 1845), 'Chez moi'; 272. K. Bergslien (b. 1827J, Portrait of his father;
27tj. i'. Dodom (1829-79), Scene in Nordmarken ; Jac. Bratland, Sunday;
//. A. C'appelen (1827-52), -267. Forest-scene in Teleinarken, 2C8a. Water-
fall in Telemarken; J. C. C. Dahl (1788-1857), 230. Laurvik, 231. Water-
fall; SiijtB. Dahl (1). 1827), Portrait of his father. Prof. J. C. C. Dahl; J. F,
Eckersberg (182'2-iO), 253. Valle in the Sffitersdal, 254. Mountain-scenery;
'I'll. Fearnley (180'2-42), 235. The Labrofos, 236. Grindelwald Glacier;
331. Grimelund (b. 1842), Mexico Dock at Antwerp; //. F. Gude (b. 182C),
258. Norwegian landscape, 259. Wounfain-view, 261. CUristiania Fjord,
262. Before the rain, 263. Scene in North Wales; 355. Nils Gude, Portrait
of bis father, the painter H. F. Gude; 285. Karl Hansen (b. 1841), In
captivity; Han^ Heyerdahl (b. 1857), 300d. Aa.'^gaardstrand, 300 e. Family
pirty, 300 g. Portrait of himself; Seen JOrgensen (b. 1861), Family por-
trait's; 359a. Fred. Kolste (b. 1860), Salmon-fisber looking after his nets.
Chr. Krogh {h. 1852), 360. The struggle for existence; no number, On the
Norway coast; no number, Old lady; no number, Bad news. P. 8. KreyL'r,
Music in the studio; Morten Midler (b. 1S28), 273. Scene on the Christiania
Fjord, 274. Hardanger Fjord; 306. Gerh. Munthe (b. 1849), A summer's
day; Ludwig Miint/ie (b. 1841), '287. Coast-scene in winter, 287a. Autumn
evening; 299. Am. Nielsen (b. 1338), On the Hardanger Fjord ; Eilif Petersen
(b. 1852), 289. Portrait of a lady, 289a. Siesta, 289b. Old woman, 289c.
Portrait of the Norwegian composer Ed. Grieg; 303. 0. Binding (b. 1842),
Scime in the Lofoten Islands; Joachim Hkovgaard , The Good Shepherd;
304. Chr. Skredsvig (b. 1854), Genre-scene from Northern France; 283.
Stoltenberg - Lerche (,i^31-^d3). Payment of the tithes at the convent; Fritz
Thaulow (b. ISll), 301. Uoad in Krager0; 301a. Hougfos, near Modum :
Adolf Tidemnnd (1814-76), "246. A solitary couple (family worship in a
cottage), "247. Meeting of the llaugianer (a religious sect), 248. The dying
bear-hunter, 24Se. Worship in a Norwegian country- church; 803. Karl
Uclierman (b. 1855), Flemish team. N. G. Wentzel (b. 1859), 332. Old couple;
no number, Dancing peasants in the Ssetersdal. E. Werenskiold (b. 18r)5),
302. Girl from Telemarken, "3023. Funeral of a peasant, 302b. Portrait
of Bj0rnstjerne Bj^rnson, 302c. Portrait of the mathematician O. J. Broch
on his death-bed.
Farther to the N., at the corner of Universitets - Gaden and
Pilestrceden, is the Museum of Industrial Art (PI. 19; E, 2, 3),
founded in 1S77, containing interesting specimens of Norwegian
embroidery, trinkets, 'Herrebe' fayence, medieval reliquaries
resembling the old timber -churches (p. 29), Chinese porcelain,
lacquer work, etc. (open free, Sun. 12-2, Mon. & Frid. 12-3). A
new building, which will also accommodate the Royal School of
Alts aTid Handicrafts, is in progress on Ullevoldsveien (p. 17).
The Historical Mu8eum(Plan 11 ; E, 3), in a large new building
ill Fredriks-Gaden, is now approaching completion. The ground-
lloor is to be devoted to the Northern AnthiuUies, whilethe C ahlnet
(
16 RouU 2. CHRISTIANIA. falace.
of Coins and the Ethnographical Collection are to be exhibited on
the middle and upper floors.
The Collection of Kokthern ANTitiUiTiEs, which has hitherto been
housed in the Donma Academica (p. 13), includes remains of the stone,
bronze, and iron or Viking periods ; niediseval objects of the ll-16th cent.,
among which the beautifnlly carved doors of destroyed 'Stavekirker'
(p. 29) de.serve special notice; and objects from the period since 1500.
The two Viking Ships (p. 13) are also to be transferred to this section. —
The Cabinet of Coins contains upwards of 45,000 coins and medals. —
By far the most important part of the Ethnogkaphical Collection is the
Scandinavian Department.
On a height at the W. end of the town, in the beautiful Slots-
park, stands the V Skl&ce [Slot ; PI. D, 3), a plain edifice with a class-
ical portico, erected in 1825-48.
The interior is shown by the 'Vagtmester'. who lives on the sunk
fioor of the S. wing (daily, 12-2; fee i/a kr. for each member of a party).
The staircase is embellished with two reliefs in marble: on the right,
Charles XIV. .lohn laying the foundation-stone of the palace, by Stephan
funding: on the left, Oscar II. unveiling the statue of Charles .lohn, by
M. iSki'ibrok. The Festsal is borne by Corinthian columns ; Dining Room
in the Pomptian style; the walls of the Throne Room, the Drawing
Room, and the Audience Chamber are hung with landscapes by Flinto.
The private apartments contain paintings and sculptures by Norwegian
artists (amonn them Tiedemands Village Catechising, and 0. Sinding's Battle
of Svolder), mostly presented to the king and queen on their silver-wedding
in 1882. — Fine 'View from the roof.
In front of the palace rises an Equestrian Statue of Charles XIV.
John (Bernadotte), by Brynjulf Bergslien (d. 1898), inscribed with
the king's motto 'The people's love is my reward'.
The extensive modern quarter (PI. D, 1 , 2) to the N. of the
palace park , named Homanshy after its founder , consists of villas
and gardens. — To the S.E., above Rusel^kveien, is the Victoria
Terrace (PI. D, 3), conspicuous from the sea. Below are two rows
of shops, one over the other, and above them are three large turreted
dwelling-houses.
From the Storthing Building Akers-Gaden leads to the S.
to the Johanues-Kirke (PI. E, 4), a brick edifice by Bull, com-
pleted in 1878. Altar-piece by E. Petersen ('Kirketjener' or sac-
ristan, Akers-Gaden 1). — Opposite the church, to the N., is the
Christiania Savings Bank, built by H. Nissen in 1900, with its
elaborate fagade turned towards 0vre Slots-Gaden.
Farther to the W., at the comer of Raadhus - Gaden (No. 25)
and Nedre Vold-Gaden, is the new Seamen's Home. — Raadhus-
Gaden ends on the W. at the Tobdenskjolds-Plaus (PI. E, 4),
with is embellished with a statue, by Axel Ender (1901), ot Pedtr
Vessel Tordenskjold, the commander of the Danish-Norwegian fleet
in the War of the North (pp. Ixxiv; 221).
The Fortress of AkershusfPl.E, 5) was unsuccessfully besieged
by Duke Eric of Sweden in 1310, by Christian 11. of Denmark in
1531-32, and by the Swedes again in 1567 and in 1716 (under
Gharles XII.). It is now used as an arsenal and a prison. The
Si. Hanshaiigen. CHRISTIANIA. 2. Route 17
garrison-church is within its precincts. Permission to visit the
Artillery Museum and Collection of "Weapons is obtained at the oftice
of the 'Feldteimester', in the Fsestnings-Plads, opposite the main
(W.) entrance to the fortress.
In AKERS-GiBEx, to the N. of Karl-Jolians-Gaden, are the new
Courts of Ju<tice (PI. 19.; F. 3), hnilt hy Sparre, and new Govern-
ment Offices (PI. F. 3), bi gun in 1902. — Farther to the N. is the
Trefoldigheds-Kirke [Pl. F, 2), or Trinity Church, a Gothic edi-
fice witli a dome, partly designed by Chdteauneuf, and erected in
1853-58. The interior, a handsome octagon, contains an altar-
piece by Tidemand and a font with an angel by Middelthun. — A
little to the W.. at the corner of Keysers-Gaden and Munch-Gaden, is
the Enkeknsse (Widows' Fundi, in the Florentine style, by Befdtker.
By the Roman Catholic St. Olafs-Kirke (Fl. F, 2), erected in
1853, Akers-Gaden divides into Akersveien, to the right, and
Ulevoldsveien. to the left, the latter leading direct in 10 min., the
former past the Gamle Aliers-Kirke in 1/4 hr. to St. Hanshaugen.
Between these two roads lies Vor Frelsers Gravlund (PI. E, F, 2),
a well-kept cemetery, which deserves a visit. It may be entered
by the lower gate and left by the upper. — In Akersveien, a little
to the N. of the cemetery, rises the Gamle Akers-Kirke (PI. F, 1),
mentioned before 1150, and perhaps founded by King Olaf Kyrre.
The church, which is a basilica in the Anglo-Norman Romanesque
style, is now closed owing to its precarious condition.
*St. Hanshaugen, or 'St. John's Hill' (PI. E, 1; 280 ft.), is
laid out as a public promenade. On the top is a reservoir of the
city water-works, the tower of which commands an excellent survey
of the town, the fjord with its islands, the Ekeberg to the left, Os-
carshall to the right, and the Frognersffiter on the hill to the N.W.
The attendant, for wiiom the visitor rings, names the chief points
and offers the use of a telescope (fee). Below the water-basin is a
seated figure of P. C. Asbjernsen, the writer of fairy-tales, by B. Bergs-
lien. Near the lower entrance (a station of the electric trnmway,
p. 10) is a good Restaurant (music in the evening), and farther on
is a so-called Sportstue (p. 20), two tasteful wooden buildings in
the Norwegian style, by H. Munthn.
Environs of Christiania.
The BYGD0 13 most conveniently visited frim Christiania either by
the Electric Trnnucty (p. 10), from the stations of .Skillebfek and Skarpsno,
from which we reach the ferrie.s in a few minutes, or by the small S'ewners
which ply every V2-I hr. between Piperviken (PI. D, E, 4) and various \
points on the Bygda (fares 10-20 t<.). — The milway-station for Bygd'3 (p. 22),
which is now called i<k-eien, i' about 1 M. to the N. of Oscarhall.
The peninsula of Bygd«, to the W. of Christiania, with tte^
royal chateau of Oscarshall, the National Norwegian Museum, and
two sea-bathing resorts, affords a charming object for an afternoon
excursion. Its N. portion resembles a well-wooded park.
Bakdkkkr's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 1
18 Route 2, ORCARSHALL. Environs
The Electric Tramway Collows Drammensveien (PI. 1), C, 3j,
which is flanked by numerous vLllas. About '/4 M. to the S. of the
station of Skillebctk (PI. B, 4), at the end of the Framnasvei, is the
pier of the steam-launch (10 e.) which crosses to Dronningen (see
below). A flnger-post at the station of Skarpsno (PI. 3) indicates
the way to the steam-ferry to Oscarshall (5 e. ; from the landing-
place on the other side we ascend to the left to the chateau iu6min.).
The most important stations of the Steamers starting from
Piperviken are the following, on the E. side of the peninsula.
1. Christiania and Bygde Line (Com. 152): Bygdenaes Bad (PI. A, 5;
p. 11); Dronningen (PI. A, 4), a rocky islet connected with the
Bygde by a floating bridge and containing the restaurant of the
Royal Yacht Club (p. 10; from the W. end of the bridge we reach
the path leading from Fredriksborg to Oscarshall); Oscarshali
(see below ; pier adjoining that of the above-named steam-ferry). —
2. Chrislianin and Fredriksborg Lino (Com. 150): Fredriksborg, a
summer-resort on the bay of Langviken (PI. A, 5) consisting of a
group of villas and pleasure-gardens. To reach (20-25 min.) Oscars-
hall from this point we take the footpath leading past the Fredriks-
borg Tivoli to (3 min.) a broad path; then follow the latter to the
right and again turn to the right (t/4 hr.) beyond the Norwegian
National Museum (about 3 min. farther on, to the leff, arc the ancient
Norwegian buildings mentioned at p. 19). — 3. A special direct line
of steamers (Com. 164) skirts the Bygde to the Bygde Sebad (p. 11),
which lies on its N.W. bank. The route hence to (26-30 min.)
Oscarshall passes 'Paraplyen' and the ancient Norwegian buildings.
The chateau of *0scar8hall (80 ft. ; PI. A, 4) was erected in the
English Gothic style by Nebelong for King Oscar I. in 1849-52, and
is adorned with paintings by Norwegian artists. It deserves a visit
for the' sake of the view. (Apply to the 'Vagtmester', who lives at
the back of the chateau, on the S.W. side; fee 1/2"! '^'"O
The Dining Room, on the groundfloor of the smaller separate build-
ing, is adorned with Norwegian landscapes by J. Frich, above which are
ten famous works by A. Tidemand (p. 15), representing 'Norsk Bondeliv',
or Norwegian peasant life. — The Drawing Room, on the groundfloor
of the principal building, with its oak panelling, is embellished with
statues of Harald Haarfager, Olaf Trygvason, St. Olaf, and Sverre, in
zinc, by MicheUen. — A room on the 1st floor contains nine bas-reliefs
from FrithjoTs Saga, by C. Borch, and four fine landscapes by H. Qudf.
(comp. p. 133) from the same Saga. — Several rooms on the 2nd floor
contain paintings, wood-carvings, portraits, and relics.
We now ascend by a winding staircase of 28 steps to the flat roof of
the chateau, from which 43 steps more lead us to the top of the tower,
where we enjoy a charming 'View of Christiania, its fjord, and its en-
virons (best by evening-light).
The main road, running to theW. from the Vagtmester's house,
leads to (10 min.) the ancient Norwegian buildings (see p. 19).
The road diverging to the left from this leads to the Norwegian
National Museum (reached from either Dronningen or Fieri riksborg
ill 20 min.; comp. above).
/nil'
^^ I Store- y
—3 1:80. 000
of Christiania. EKEBERG. 2. Route. 19
The Norwegian National Museum (^Norsk Folke - Museum ;
open 11-11, the collections only till 8 p.m.; adm. 70 e.; descriptive
guide 40 0.), opened in 1902, is to be gradually extended in the
style of Skansen near Stockholm (p. 345). The Entrance Gate is a
reproduction of one of the city-gates of Bergen, datiug from 1628.
Continuing in a straight direction, past the storehouse, we reach an
open space, where we see in front of us the so-called Ridehus, and
to the left the so-called church, both constructed in Christiania
after antique models. The 28 rooms of the Ridehus contain textile
fabrics, furniture, pictures, and domestic utensils from the various
provinces of Norway. Those from the Gudbrandsdal (Rooms 5-7) are
especially elaborate^ while those from Telemarken (KR. 11-15) are
unique in their style of art. The objects from Christiania (RR. 17-21)
ai\d the W. Coast (RR. 22-2o) show strong marks of foreign in-
fluence. The Church contains carved and painted altar-pieces,
pulpits, and other ecclesiastical objects of the 16th, 17th, and
(especially) 18th centuries. Behind the Ridehus are five old cottages
from various provinces, the oldest of which is the Raulandsstue, with
a carved doorway and a Runic inscriptions of a date not later than
1300. Passing the church, we cross the street to the restaurant of
(rildestuen, wliere a concert is given every evening.
An extension of the Museum takes the form of a group of inter-
esting old Norwegian buildings, re-erected in a clearing a little
to the N. and approached by a wooden portal in the ancient Norse
style. In the centre is the *Church of Gol in the Hallingdal (p. 45),
a 'Stavekirke' or timber -built church of the 12th or 13th cent,
(comp. p. 29), first known to us in 1309, brought to this spot in 1884,
and freely restored, partly after the model of the church of Borgund
(p. 58). Around it are placed several farm-houses, including one
from Telemarken, fitted up with the original furniture, storehouses,
and so on (attendant 25 e. for each person). — Close by is the
Landbrugs- Museum, a collection of ancient agricultural implements
(daily, 10-2 and 4-7).
The road called 'Bygdeveien' leads hence to the N., passing the
farm of Kongsgaard, to (8/4 M.) the Saterhytte, a restaurant on the
Dronningbjerg. Saeterhytte is also a station of the steamers from
Piperviken, but is not often called at.
The Ekeberg : By Kledric Tramway from the Storthing (E. side, by
Akers-Oailcn) via the Stor-Torv to the end of the 8\iburb of Oslo (coin)i.
P1.FQ4, H5); or by Steamer from the Jernbane-Brygge (PI. F, 4) to Kongs-
havn or Ormsumi (about 12 times daily).
A few paces beyond the terminus of the tramway (PI. H, 6) we
reach the point where 'Ljabroveien' and 'Kongsveien' diverge from
each other. The former, to the right, skirts the railway and the
fjord. Kongsveien (left), which we follow, ascends along the slope
of the Ekeberg (400 ft.). After about 12 min. a footpath diverges
to the right and ascends to a rocky knoll, which affords a beautiful
•) *
20 Route 2. HOLMENKOLLEN. ■ Envirom
view (best by morning-ligbt) of tbe harbour of Christiania with the
islands in front of it, and also of the Oraie to the S. About 40 paces
farther on another path to the left leads to some more points of view,
while Karlsborgveien, diverging to the right, descends through •wood
to (5 min.) the restaurant and sea-baths of Kongshavn (steamb.
Stat., see p. 19), situated on the Ljabro road about 1 M. from the
tramway-terminus. — Kongsveien runs through the wood, passing
a few modest inns (to the left, above), to (25 min.) a group of villas
named Bakkelaget (ahove the rail, station mentioned at p. 79) and
on to Ljan.
HoLMENKOLLBN and Frogners^tee, — From Mnjorstuen, the ter-
miaus of the city-tramway (p. 10; 10 (?!.), an electric railway pHea fo
Holmenkollen (25 min. up, 17 min. down ; fare 25 0.). running every !/■! hr.
on week-days and every 7i/-2 min. on Sundajs. — From Hdlmenkollen it
takes 30-40 min. to walk to Frognersceier. Thus the whole excursion,
there and back, takes 3^J2-^ hrs. — From Holmenkollen an omnibus runs
twice daily to the Voxenkollen (1 kr.).
The Holmenkollen Electric Railway (4 M.; stations not
shopped at except at the request of passengers) runs from Major-
stuen towards the N., passing several country-houses, till it reaches
a point near the large lunatic asylum of Ganslad. The railway now
begins to ascend, and beyond Rls it intersects a new villa-colony. —
2 M. Slemdal. Farther on the line leads through pine-forest, nearly
the whole of its course being over embankments or hewn out of the
living rock. The maximum gradient is 1 :25. The last station on
the line is Midstuen. We cross the old Frognersseter road by a lofty
bridge and run towards the S.W. to the terminus at (4 M.) Holmen-
kollen (797 ft.), which lies V4 ^r. below the hotel.
*Holmenkollen (1040 ft.), commanding a magnificent view of
Christiania and the fjord, is the most popular pleasure-resort in the
neighbourhood of the Norwegian capital, not only in summer but
also in winter, when snowshoeing ('skileb') is practised here with
great energy (important races in Feb.). At the top is a Tourist Hotel,
with a good restaurant (D. from 2 to 6 p.m. 2'/2 kr. or a la carte;
H. in de'pendance 2-6 kr.), erected in 1896-97, the rooms of which
are adorned with scenes by Norwegian painters. On the slope in
front (short-cut from the station), to the right, is a so-called Sportstue
(cafe and beer-house). — A 'bautasten' commemorates the visit of
Emp. William II. and King Oscar II. on July 2nd, 1890. The road
forks here, the branch to the right (see p. 21) being known as 'Keiser
Wilhelms Veien' and that to the left, leading to the Sanatorium
(pens. 35-45 kr. per week), as 'Kong Oskars Veien'.
From Kong Oskars Veien a path, diverging on the right near
the gate of the Sanatorium (which spans the road), leads to the left,
above the Besserud-Tjeru (p. 21) to (15-20 min.) the Holmenkoll-
taarn, the view-tower on the top of the Holmenkollen (1040 ft,).
Another path, diverging from this one to the right, about halfway
up, ascends to the Voxenkollen.
of ChrUtiania. FKOON'KHS.FTER. 2. Route. 21
Keiser Willielms Veien, connecting llolmeakullen with the
(l'/4 M.) FrognersaRter, runs almost all tlie way through wood.
After ';'2 M. we pass the Peisstue (rfmts.), situated on the Besserud-
Tjern (1015 ft.), an artificial lake, and in 10 inin. more, beyond a
new chapel, we reach the Wilhelmshei Hotel (D. 2 kr.), close to the
corner of the road to the Voseiikollen (see below). A 'bautasteu' here
commemorates Eivind Astrup, the Arctic traveller, who perished
on the Dovrefjeld in the winter of 1895-96. Passing the initials
0. II. W. II. cut in the rocks, we reach (1/4 hr.) the —
*Frogners8eter (1410 ft.), the country-seat of the l&te Consul
T. J. Heftye (d. 1886), purchased by the city of Christiania in
1889. It commands a beautiful view of Christiania and the fjord.
The Restaurant (to the left; fair) was built in 1891 by H. Muntbe, in
the Norwegian style ; the seats in the upper balcony are particularly
pleasant. The former Villa Heftye contains a collection of Norse
antiquities (adm. 25 c). There are also a few old Norwegian
timber-buildings, from Telemarken and the Hallingdal. To the E.
is a Sportstue (p. 20), for the sale of coffee, beer, wine, mineral
waters, etc.
The view i? still more extensive from a wooden scaffolding (with
mountain-indicator) on the Tryvandsh0ide (1702 ft.), to which we ascend
past the 0vre Frognersoeter in L'f) min. more In clear weather we see the
mountains of Telemarken to the X. (Gausta, p. 32), those of the Hallingdal
to the K.W. (Norofjeld, p. 44), and the hills on the Swedish frontier to
the E. — The Voxenkollen Sanatorium (see below) is reached from the 0vrc
Frognersrcter by a well-made woodland path in 20-25 minutes.
In returning to Christiania from the Frognersfeter walkers may follow
the old road, which descends immediately tn the E. of the Villa Heftye,
leads through wood to the ('/2 hr.) station of Midstuen (p. 20), and then
crosses the electric railway, passing a small 'bautasten'', erected to Heftye
'by the youth of Christiania.' Here it is met by the old Holmenkollen
road (right); it then pa'ses \h(i Fosheim Scci/iforium before reaching ('/o hr.)
aiMuial (p. 20).
The above-mentioned road (from which another diverges for the
Voxenkollen Hospice') leads from the Wilhelmshei Hotel to the W.,
past *Anne Kure's Hotel (1510 ft.; pens. 41/2-6 kr.), to the Voxen-
kollen (1560 ft.), a granite crag commanding a fine view, including
the Bogstadvand to theW. The road goes on to the (I'/i M. from the
■VVilhelmshei Hotel) large * Voxenkollen Sanatorium, kept by Dr. Holm
(1640 ft.; pens., with baths and electric light, 4'2-70 kr. per week).
The round trip (272 hrs.) in thi; Christiania Fjord made by the
steamer 'To risten' may be recommended in fine weather. The steamer
leaves Piperviken (PI. D, E, 4) twice daily (fare 2.1/2 kr.). Other
steamers also afford pleasant trips (Com. 140, 141, 144, 145, 161).
Another fine view of Christiania is obtained from the Hovedc, which
lies to the ,S. of the fortress uf Akershus (p. 16). The island, which is
included in the fiirtilications (powder-magazine), contains some remains of
a Cistercian abbey, founded by English monks in 1147 and destroyed in 1532.
Permission to visit the island is obtained at the office of the 'Feidt^imester'
(p. 17). Rowinz-boat from Piperviken or from Grev Wedels Plads, accordine to
tarirt', there and liack. iO**., 2 pors. 1 kr. 8i, 3 pers. 1 kr. 80, 4 pevs. 2 kr. 70 «.
22
3. From Christiania to the Randsfjord via Drammen
and Haugsund.
142 Kil. Railway (' Vestbanen') to (53 Kil.) Drammen^ express in I'/ihr.
ffares 2 kr. 90 0., 2 kr.), ordinary train in 2V4 hrs. (fares 2 kr. 40, 1 kr.
60 0.); thence to (89 Kil ) Randsfjord three trains daily in 3-4 hrs. (fares
4 kr. 20, 2 kr. 50 0.). Second and third class only. — The railway tra-
verses heautifnl scenery, particularly between R^iken and Drammen and
between Haugsund and H^nefos. Best views to the left.
The train starts from the Vest-Banegaard at Christiania (PI. D, 4;
p. 9}. To the left we soon obtain a view of the beautiful Christiania
Fjord and of the peninsula of Bygde, with the white chateau of
Oscarshall and numerous villas. — 3 Kil. Skeien, the station for
Bygde and Oscarshall (1 M. ; see p. 17). — 6 Kil. Lysaker^ at the
mouth of the Serkedals-Elv.
To the right rise the porphyry range of the Kolsaas (1255 ft. ;
extensive view) , the Skougumsaas, etc. The Silurian strata arc
here intersected by massive dykes of greenstone, especially near
(^iO Ki\.^ Hevik , where a dyke 2 ft. thick intersects the disinte-
grated slate. The train skirts the Enger-Vand, on the right.
13 Kil. Sandviken [Sandvikens hotel, beyond the bridge over
the Saiidviks-Elv, very fair and not dear; Skyds-Slation, near the
railway-station, towards the fjord), prettily situated on the fjord.
Fkom Sandviken to HeNEFos by eoad, 43 Kil. — By the 'mixed"
train from Christiania to Sandviken (60, 40 0. ; the express does not stop
here) ; thence by skyds, ordered by telephone the day before, to Sundvolden;
ascend Krogkleven; go on to Henefos in the afternoon (cariole from Sand-
viken to H0nefos 15, stolkjserre 22V2, carr. and pair 30 kr. ; charges lower
in the opposite direction, see p. 26).
The road crosses i)i& Sandviks-Elv , diverges to the right from the
Drammen road, and gradually ascends on the bank of the stream.
At the top of the hill, to the left, is the old church of Tanum; to
the right is the Kolsaas (see above). We next ascend the Isidal.
The highest point of the road lies 1U70 ft. above the sea.
15 Kil. (pay for 18) SoUihegda, in the wood. — The road is hewn
in the rock at places. Beyond a rocky gateway called Skaret our road
joins 'Svangstrands-Veien' (p. 23), coming from Drammen - Lier.
To the left, through the trees, we have glimpses of the Holsfjord,
the S.E. arm of the Tyrifjord (210 ft.), which lies far below us.
With its area of 50i/o sq. M., it takes the fourth place among the
lakes of Norway; its greatest depth is 920 ft. — Then a beautiful
descent to the fjord, the bank of which we follow to —
17 Kil. Sundvolden {Blybergs Hotel, fair, K. 1 1/2, »• or S- 1 V4 ^f- ;
not a skyds-station, but carriages for hire).
From Sundvolden we may ascend by a rough path (l)est in the morning;
there and back 2V2-3 hrs. ; horse 2 kr. 40 0.) to *Krogkleven, a rocky height
(Kiev, 'clift"), on the old road to Christiania. Ascending through a romantic
gorge, we first come to (3/4 hr.) Klcvstuen (1245 ft.), a rustic inn (B. &} 0.),
5 min. below which, to the N., is the Uronningens Udsiyt (Queen's View).
Continuing to ascend by the rough path diverging to the right in front of
KRiSTIANIA-KOr
RG-RINGERIKE
VIK. 3. Route. 23
I he iuii, and following the while crosses on the trues, we next reach the
('25-30 min.) "Kongens Udsiyt (King's View; 1450 ft. above the sea, 1240 ft.
ahove the fjordj Beautiful view, embracing the Tyrifjord with its islands,
the district of Riniierike, the Jonsknut near Kongsberg (p. 28), the Nore-
fjeld (i>. 44) to IheN.W., and the Gausta (p. 32) to the W. in the distance.
The view from the Gyrihaug (2215 ft.; 4 M. to the N.E. of Sundvolden)
is said to be even finer. According to the legend the numerous islands
in the Stecnsfjord are said to be stones once hurled by the giantess ('Gygr'
or 'Gy vr') of the Gyrihaug at the church of Steen (see below), which missiles,
however, including even one of her own legs, all came short of their aim
and fell into the lake. Like the battle of the giants against Odin and
Thor in the Edda, this legend is symbolical of the impotent wrath of
the powers of nature against the advance of human culture.
The road to Haaefos crosses the Krogsund, which connects the
Tyrifjord with the Steensfjord.
The next station, 3 Kil. from Sundvolden, is Vik (travellers
in the reverse direction drive on to Sundvolden without change of
horses). About 1/4 hr. farther on, on the right, are the ruined church
of Steen and (a little farther on) the tumulus of King Halfdan the
Black (d. 860), father of Harald Haarfager. After another 1/4 hr. the
road passes Norderhovs Kirke (375 ft.) and a memorial stone (to the
left, by the road) to Anna Kolbjernsdatter. She was the wife of the
pastor of the place, and in 1716, while her husband was ill, succeeded
by stratagem in betraying 600 Swedish invaders into the hands of
her countrymen.
8 Kil. Henefos, see p. 26.
The line to Drammen ascends through cuttings and two short
tunnels to (15 Kil.) Slabende and (20 Kil.) Hvalstad (219 ft.; Asker
Sanatorium), at the foot of the massive Skougumsaas (1140 ft.).
It then crosses a wooden viaduct, 90 ft. high.
23 Kil. Asker (340 ft.), with a new church. We skirt the foot of
the VardekoUe (1150 ft.), a granite peak rising to the S.W., and pass
the small lakes Bondivand (325 ft.) and Gjellumvand (315 ft.).
At the S. end of the latter is (29 Kil.) Heggedal, beyond which we
pass the base of the precipitous Jireimaas. Beyond (34 Kil.) Reken
(435 ft.) the line turns abruptly to the W. Numerous cuttings.
Beyond a tunnel, 240 yds. long, a most picturesque and impos-
ing *ViKW of the Drammens-Fjord , the town of Drammen, and
the fertile valley of Lier is suddenly disclosed to the left; but this
view is considerably interfered with by trees and cuttings. — The
road from Kaken to Drammen descends at once to the fjord, while
the railway passes through another tunnel and describes a long
curve towards the N., descending gradually to the valley of Licr
and the (46 Kil.) station of that name.
From Lier a beautiful route (known as 'Svangstrands-Veien'), with
'fast' skyds-stations, leads on the E. side of the valley, past the Paradit-
liakker (view) and the Engerfjeld^ to the HoUfjord (p. 22). The road joins
the Sandvikcn and Hgnefos road at the 'Skaret' (p. 22).
From Lier the train runs tow.ards theS., through a fertile tract,
to (51 Kil.) Bragereen, the E. end of Drammen (BragernsEs), and
24 Route 3. — Maf. p. 2i'. DKAMMEN. From Christianin
crosses the Drammens-Elv and the island of Mellerholm or Hol-
men, "with its timber-yards, to the Tangen and Stremse quarters,
on the S. hank of the river.
53 Kil. Drammen. — The Station {Restaurant, cold dishes only ;
luncheon -baskets provided) is close by the bridge. Drammen is- the
junction for Haug^und (change carriages ; p. 25) and for Laurvik and Skien
(pp. 35, 36).
Hotels. In Slremse: 'Central Hotel, opposite the station, entrance
in a side-street, vs'ith baths, R. 1V2-5, B. 1, D. (at 2 p.m.) 2, S. IV2 kr. ;
Britannia, near the station, in Frem-Gaden, leading to the E. to Tangen.
— In Bragernces: Kong Karl, Stor-Gaden, near the market-place.
Cab with one horse, for 1 person 40 0. per drive, for 2 persons 60 0.
British Vice-Consul, Mr. Anders Sveaas. — Lloyd's Agents, Messrs. iSee-
berg d- Xilxen.
Steamboats to Christiania thrice a v?eek.
Drammen, with 23,000 inhab., situated on both banks of the
Drammens-Elv, consists of Bragermes on the N. bank (rebuilt after
its almost total destruction by Are in 1866), Stremse on the S. side
(which suffered severely from fires in 1870 and 1880), and Tangen
to the S.E. The situation of Drammen on the estuary of the river,
between lofty hills, is very picturesque. The prosperity of the
place depends mainly on its export of timber, which amounts tc
nearly one-third of that of the entire country. About 4,000,000 logs
are annually floated down the Drammens-Elv. It also exports zinc
and nickel from Skouger and Ringerike, and wood-pulp from the
factories on the Drammens-Elv and the Baegna. The commercial
fleet of Drammen is one of the largest in Norway (over 200 sailing-
vessels and steamers). Sea-going vessels are berthed at the stone
quays of Bragernas.
Close to the railway-station a Timber Bridge crosses the Dram-
mens-Elv, connecting Stremsfi' and Bragernaes. The Brandposten
(see below), with its two flagstaifs, is conspicuous on the hill to
the right. The bridge leads to the Bragernas-Torv, in which , to
the right, are the Exchange (with the Post and Telegraph Offices
behind it; entrance in Nedre-Stor-Gaden), and facing us the
Raadhus and Byret (court-house), with the inscription Ret og
Sandhed ('justice and truth'). Ascending straight on, between
the two small towers of Kirke-Gaden, we reach the conspicuous
Bragern^s Church, a handsome Gothic brick edifice by Nordgren,
built in 1866-71. It contains a Resurrection by Tidemand, and
an Angel over the font by Borch. (The 'Kirketjeuer' lives in the
one-storied white wooden house opposite the sacristy, to the left.)
To the E. of Bragernaes Church we reach (12-15 min.) the
*Brandpo.sten , one of the finest points of view near Drammen,
affording an extensive survey of Tangen, Str^mse, and Bragerna's,
of the island of Holmen, the valley of the Drammens-Elv, and the
fjord. The veranda of the watchman's house is open to the public.
The road ascends hence to the (35-40 min.) Klopkjarn (755 ft.),
a sequestered lake in the midst of wood, which supplies the town
tf> the H'wdsfjoiul. VIKKSINI). :i. Route. 25
with good water. Kefreslimeuts at tlie small house. A path ascends
to the right iu 5 min. to Prinds Oscars Udsiyl , overlooking the
Lierdal and the fjord.
A promenade ('Oscarsstien') connects the Klopkjffirn with
several fine points of view on the slopes of the Bragekn^saas,
which may also be reached direct from Bragernjcs in 35-40 min.
by an easy but shadeless zigzag road ('Albumstien'), with benches
(restaurant). The views embrace the town and fjord, the valley
up to Haugsund, etc. The finest points, Toppen, Furulund, and
Breidablik, are marked on the plan. Tlic last affords the best view
up the valley, most striking at sunset.
About 5 31. to the S.W. (if Drauimcn ((imu. thrice daily, l'/4 kv.), nu
the Konertidsaase/i, lies the cumfortublc Koner-udkollen Hotel <i- Sanatvrium
(1300 ft. above the sea; baths, good cuisine). — .\nolher fine point of view
13 the Stor.tlensfjetd (1750 ft.), 8 M. to the N. of Drammen, also ascended
from Lier (p. 23).
The Kanusfjoru Railway (through-carriages by the express-
trains; best views to the right) ascends the broad valley of the
Drainmens-Elv. 56 Kil. Gulskog ; 64 Kil. Mjendalen.
70 Kil. Haugsund (Rail. Restaurant), junction for Kongsherg
(p. 27; change carriages). To the W. rises the Jonsknut (p. 28).
Near Haugsuud is the Hellefos, a fall of the Drammens-Elv, with
salmon-flshery.
The Randsfjord traiu turns to the N. and continues to ascend the
Urammens-P'lv. Beautiful scenery. Views on both sides. Several
fine waterfalls. 75 Kil. Burud. Beyond (80 Kil.) Skotselven, with
a wood-pulp mill, the train crosses the Drammens-Elv, which here
forms the Deviksfos. — 86 Kil. Aamot, on the left bank of the river.
A suspension-bridge leads to the opposite bank, on which stand the
Nykirke and a large saw-mill, driven by the waterfall of the Simoa,
descending from the Sigdal. Scenery at this point remarkably fine.
A little farther on is the influx of the Snarurns-Elv , descending
from Lake Kredereu and the Hallingdal. The traiu recrosses to
the right bank. 92 Kil. Gjeithus, near the Gravfos, with a large
paper-mill. Pretty w^alk hence to the Hivsdal with the St. Olafs-
gryder, large giants' cauldrons.
96 Kil. Vikesund, junction for Lake Krederen (p. 44), lies
at the efflux of the Drammens-Elv from the Tyrifjord. A long
bridge crosses the river to the church of Heggen.
To the W. of Vikesund (can-iages at the station, or at the neigh-
bouring posting -.'Station Kroiia) lies (4 Kil.) St. Olafs-Bad, a favourite
watering-place, with a chalybeate spring, mud-baths, inhaling-apparatus,
and other appliances (pension, including baths, medical advice, etc., from
6 kr. upwards). Beautiful walks through wood, with views, to the Kaggejus
and other falls of the Snarums-Elv. This district is the scene of many
traditions of St. Olaf. About 5 Kil. to the W. arc the Cobalt Mines of
Alodum, worked by a German company, ani the JIaugs/os.
We skirt the W. bank of the Tyrifjord, of which we have beau-
tiful views to the right. The wooded liills opposite are the Krog-
>^kog. with Krogklcra, (p. 22) and the Giirilinitij (p. 28). 105 Kil.
26 R'.vte :i. — Map, p. 2J. RANDSFJOHD.
Nakkerud. Ill Kil. Skjserdalen, with several saw-mills. Near it is
Ringerikes Nikkelvcerk. liSKil.^sfc. The train now quits the Tyrifjord.
124 Kil. H^nefos. — Hotels. 'Glatved's Hotel, on the Bsegna-Elv,
1/4 M. below the falls and 3/^ JI. from the rail, s'ation. with baths, electric
light, garden, and English-speaking host, R. l>/2-6, B. I1/4, D. 2'/?, S. I1/2 kr.;
Grand Hotel, nearer the station; .Teknbane Hotel, at the station. —
Skyds Station: to Sundvolden, carinle 31/4, carr. and pair for 2, 3, or 4 pers.
respectively 6, 8, 10 kr. ; to Sandviken via Sundvolden, cariole 10, carriage 18,
22V2, 25 kr. ; comp. p. 22. — Engl. Ch. Service at Glatved's Hotel.
Henefos (315 ft.), a small town with 1080 inhab., lies at the
confluence of the Bayna or Aadals-Elv, which descends from Lake
Spirillen, and the Rands-Elv, coming from the Randsfjord. These
rivers form the Stor-Elv, which falls into the Tyritjord, and after-
wards emerges from it under the name of Drammens-Elv.
The B:egna-Elv, the larger of the two rivers, forms a waterfall
and a cataract, close to the town , which are together known as
the Henefos. Though of no great height and largely spoiled by the
proximity of numerous saw-mills, flour-mills, and wood-pulp fac-
tories, these falls present an imposing appearance, especially in
May and June, during the melting of the snow. We reach them
by following the road downstream from the rail, station to (5 min.)
the market-place and proceeding thence to the left to a bridge cross-
ing the B;egna-Elv close to the falls. A channel on the left bank
of the N. fall, which conveys the timber to the mills, is worth seeing.
A road on the left bank of the Aadals-Elv leads in 1 hr. to the Ho/sfos,
another cascade, close to the railway to Heen (cariole I'/j) carr. for 2, 3,
or 4 pers. 4 kr. ; to Heen, 2, S'/j 6>//kr.).
The -RingkoUen (2265 ft.), 5 M. to the E. of Hgrnefos, is a beautiful
point of view. The excursion there and back fakes 5 hrs. (cariole 5 kr.;
carr. for 2, 3, or 4 pers. 8, 10, or 12 kr.). The road leads via Ojermundbro^
and ends at the GJ ermund-Sceier (tourists' hut belonging to Glatved's HoteP.
Thence to the top on fo t in V4 hr.
The train ascends the course of the Bsegna and crosses it.
131 Kil. Heen (Jernbane Hotel, Anderson's Hotel, both very fair),
with several wood-pulp mills. Travellers wishing to continue their
journey by the Lake Spirillen Steamer (p. 50) quit the train here.
Turning to the E., the train skirts the Hejaas (1490 ft.) and
the Askelihoug (1410 ft.), traversing a sequestered wooded district.
142 Kil. Randsfjord Station (Hotel Berger; Randsfjord Hotel)
lies on the left bank of the Rands-Elv, at its efflux from the S.
end of the Randsfjord. A bridge crosses the broad river to Hadelands
Glasvctrk. — The pier of the lake-steamers (to Odnaes 41/2*572 ^rs. ;
fares 4 kr., 2 kr. 80 h.) is close to the station.
The Randsfjord (440 ft.), 73 Kil. long, 1-4 kil. broad, and 355 ft.
deep, is bounded on the E. by the fertile and populous Hadeland,
and on the W. and N. by Valders and Land. The banks, rising
gradually to a height of 2000 ft., well cultivated at places, and
wooded at the top, are somewhat monotonous. The steamer stops
in all at ten stations. The most important of these is Reikenvik
(13/4 hr. from Randsfjord; p. 52).
27
4. From ( Christiania) Haugsund to the Har danger
Fjord via Kongsberg and the Rjukanfos.
From Haugsund to the Rjukanfos. — To Kongsberg, 2S Kil., Railway
in V/ihT. (fares 1 kr. 45, 80 0.). — Fnim Kdngsberg to Tinoset, Carkiace
in 9-10 hrs., either \ia, SoUesj0 (66 Kil.) or \ia, Hitterdal (69 Kil.). Walkers
take 11-12 hrs. by the Bolkes,i«r route. —From Tinoset to Fagerstrand, 30 Kil.,
Steamboat (good restaurant on board) in aummer twice daily in 2^4 hrs.
(fare 2 kr.). — From Fagerstrand to Fosso, on the lijukanfos, 26 Kil., a
drive of 4-4'/2 hrs. (cariole 4 kr. 40, stolkjwrre 6 kr. 60 0.; carr. and pair
for 2 pers. 10 kr. 60 0., for 3 pers. 13 kr. , for 4 pers. 14 kr. 50 0.\ there
and back a half more).
Feom the Ejdkanfos to the Hakdanger Fjord. The best roule is
that indicated at p. 31 via UUfos, on the great Telemarken route (p. 36).
The route via Levheim-Kirkehe or Heggestel (pp. 31-33) is less advisable. —
The Distribution of Time, reckoned from Kongsberg, would be somewhat
as follows. 1st Day: Via Bolkesj0 to Tinoset. [Those who reach Kongsberg
by railway about midday may drive or walk to Bolkesje in the evening
and spend the second night at the RjukanfdS.l 2nd Day: To the Bjukanfos,
and back \o Fagerstrand. 3rd Day ; Via Tinoset to Hitterdal-Nolodden. 4th Day.
To Ulefos and on to Dalen (p. 39). Those who choose the route via L0v-
heim find the best accommodation for the third night at Skovheim (p. 32).
From Cliristiaiiia to Haugsund, see pp. 22-25. The Kongsberg
train (finest views to the left) first stops at —
5 Kil. Vestfossen, with several factories, near the beautiful
Ekernvand or Fiskumvu7id (60 ft.), bounded by lofty mountains on
the E. side. At the S. end of this lake lie the railway-carriage
works of Eidsfos-Jernvc-erk. — 11 Kil. Darbo. — 15Kil. Krekling,
where the slate-formation predominates. Farther on we obtain a
fine view of the mountains towards the S. At (22 Kil.) SkoUenborg
(540 ft.) sandstone appears and the country becomes sterile. The
Labrofos (p. 28) is ^'^M. to the S.W. To the left rises the Skrims-
fjeld (p. 28). The train approaches the Laagen, which forms a
waterfall.
28 Kil. Kongsberg. — Hotels, "(jrano Hotel, on the left bank,
near the station, with Knglishspeaking landlord, R. 2-5, B. iV4-2V2, D.
(1.30 p.m) 2-2'/:, S. li/ikr. ; 'Victoria, in the W. part of the town, on
the right bank, also with an English-speaking host, R. 2-21/2, B. IV2, D. 21/4,
S. IV2 kr. Both hotels have baths and electric lii;ht, and are often
crowded in summer.
Carriages. To Tinoset via Bolkesj0 or Hitterdal: cariole for 1 pers.
14'/2, there and back 25'/2 kr. ; carriage-and-pair for 2 pers. 19'/2, 34 kr. ;
larger carr. for 2 pers. 29, 51 kr., for 8 pers. 35V4, 62 kr., for 4 pers.
39 kr. To Bolkesje or Hitlerdal: cariole 6 kr. 12, stnlkjferre 9 kr. 36,
carriage-and-pair for 2 pers. 14 kr. 40, for 3 pers. 16 kr. 20, for 4 pers.
18 kr. 75 0. Those who keep the carriage in Tinoset for more than 24 hrs.,
pay 4 kr. extra for each horse per day. — From Kongsberg via Tinn.set
(with halt of (ine day to visit the Rjukanfos, p. 31) to Kirkibei (p. 3?);
cariole 30, stolkjarre 45, carr. for 2, 3, or 4 pers. 76, 90, 100 kr.
Kongsberg (490 ft.), founded by Christian IV. in 1624, lies on
the Laagen or Lnugen, in the S. part of the Numedal (p. 42),
and contains r)5(S0 inhab. (only half its former poi)ulation), who
are almost all dependent on the mines. Most of the houses are
2H Route 4. BOLKES.IO. J''roni Hauysund
fiinber-built, but tlie large Church of the 18th cent, and the Raad-
hus are of stone. The town owes its origin to the Silver Mines in
the vicinity. In the town are situated the Smeltehytte, or smelting-
works, where specimens of the ore may be purchased, the Mi/n< (mint),
and a government Vaabenfabrik (weapon-factory), the last near the
Hammerfos. The rapid Laagen is crossed by two bridges. A monu-
ment to Christian IV. was erected near the church in 1883. The
Udsigt (I/4 hr.) commands a good view of the town and to the
S. over tlie valley of the Laagen.
The Silver Mines of Kongsberg, about 4 M. to the W. of the town,
were discovered in 1623. They are the property of government, but with
the present low price of silver they are little exploited and do not repay
a visit.
The Jonsknut (2950 ft.), which rises about 2^/2 M. to the W. of the mines,
commands an extensive view of Telemarken. It is ascended from Kongs-
berg in 4 hrs. (there and back 6 hra.). We may follow the mining road
via Saugrenden to 'Kongens Dam', ^/t hr. below the summit. A path
indicated by red and white marks leads from the Jonsknut, by the Li-
Sceler, the Nor-Sceier, and the SelsU-Smter, to (7 hrs.) Bolkesi0 (see below), —
About 10 M. to the S. of Kongsberg rises the Skrim.ifjeld (2946 ft.), another
l)oint of view.
About 3 M. below the town the Laagen forms the Labrofos, a' fine
waterfall, 140 ft. in height, which deserves a visit. Adjacent is a wood-
pulp mill. — Another fall of the same river is the Hvitingfos, 12 M. farther
distant, on the Laurvik road.
From Kongsberg to Tinoset there are two roads, the shorter
and more picturesque viaBolkesja (lately improved), and the high-
road via Hitterdal.
a. Via BoLKESje. We follow the road ascending the Numedal
on the right bank of the Laagen for 5 Kil. (p. 42) , turn to the
left into the Jondal, and ascend through the pines on the right
bank of the Jondals-Elv. Farther on we cross to the left bank.
1/4 hr. Hut (rfmts.). After a drive of about 4 hrs. or a walk of
5-6 hrs. we reach the culminating point of the route (1825 ft.),
where we obtain a magnificent view of the mountains of Telemar-
ken, the most conspicuous being the Lifjeld (p. 32) and the Gausta
(p. 32), appearing from this point like a blunted cone. Near Bol-
kesjo the landscape becomes more smiling, the foreground being
formed by the Bolkesjer and the larger Folsja (see below).
25 Kil. (pay for 36) Bolkesj«r (1285 ft. ; Hotel and Sanatorium,
well spoken of, R. 2, B. 11/4, D. 21/4, S. li/akr.; Grand Hotel)
lies above the small lake of the same name (1030 ft.) and com-
mands a view of the Folsje. [Walkers may descend to the Folsje,
row across it to Vik (boat ordered the night before; fare from
80 0. to 1 kr. 80 0. for 1-4 pers. ; in all II/2 lir.), and walk thence
to (37'2 lirs.) Tinoset.]
Beyond Bolkesje the road leads through wood, high up on the
N.W. bank of the Folsje (740 ft.), commanding views of the
Bleifjeld (4490 ft.) to the right. At the W. end of the lake lie
(lie houses of IVfc, \h'i hr. s drive from Bolkesje. Fine retrospect.
HiininufnJi. ^risthr^ .,-
Spring ^. ^ »■ *»-'
©Trunks?, V '.^ ? ' \ J:
i4>
7'hvrit,
%^!r^\
-'"^
to the Hardanger Fjord. NOTODDEN. 4. Route. 29
The road descends to the Tin-EU\ and crosses it by a new bridge
at Kirkevolden , near the chnrch of Gransherred, About 5 min.
later (IV4 ^^.'s drive from Vik) we reach the highroad described
at p. 30, on which a drive of 35 min. to the N. brings us to Tinoset.
b. Via HiTTERDAii. The road at first runs towards the S., but
after 4 Kil. turns to the W. into the valley of the Kobberbergs-Elv .
To the right rises the Jonsknut (p. 28). The road gradually ascends
the wooded Medkeia and after 2-2Y2 '^^s. reaches Jertigruben
(1350 ft.; tolerable inn), where the horses are usually rested for
1/2 tr. The road continues to ascend for some distance , and then
traverses the plateau (1470 ft.) in numerous undulations. On
emerging from the forest it descends into the Hitterdal, com-
manding a beautiful view : in front the mountains of Telemarken,
the Himingen (3450 ft. ; p. 30) and the Haksfjeld, to the left the
Hitterdals-Vand. A tablet calls attention to the view of the Gausta.
Our road unites with that coming from Skien and skirting the E.
bank of the Jlitterdals-Vand (p. 32).
28 Kil. (pay for 36) Notodden {^Hotel Furuheim, Victoria, two
very fair houses, near the pier of the Hitterdal steamer, p. 31,
R. I'/a-'^, B. 1, D. 21/2, S. 11/4 kr.), near the N. end of the Hitter-
dals-Vand. The drive from Kongsberg to Notodden takes 41/2 hrs. .
in the reverse direction at least 51/2 lirs. The horses are rested
here for 2 hrs. Carriage to Hitterdal and back 3 kr.
The road now crosses the Tin-Elv. About 5 min. above the
bridge the river forms the *Tinfos, the huge volume of water
dividing into three cascades about 06 ft. high. It supplies several
factories with motive power. The road, now almost level, ascends
the valley, passing Lysthus. About 6 Kil. from Notodden, on the
right, rises —
*Hitterdals Kirke, a grotesque -looking church, the largest of
the twenty-four mediaeval Norwegian 'Stavekirker', or timber-built
churches, which are still preserved. The architecture and ornament-
ation of these singular churches date as far back as the 12th cent.,
the plan corresponding, so far as the difference of material allows,
to that of Anglo-Norman churches of the same period (comp. p. 16).
To the rectangular body of the church is added a square choir
terminating in a semicircle. The broad and lofty nave is separated
from the low aisles by means of wooden columns. Over the gable
end of the nave rises a square tower, which also has a gabled roof
and terminates in a slender spire. The dragon-head ornamenta-
tion of these gables resembles that of the prow of a ship. The roof
of the choir is lower and is surmounted by a round turret. Round
the whole of the outside of the building runs a low arcade (Lop),
probably added as a shelter for the congregation in bad weather
before or after the service; the lower part is closed, while the
upper part is open and borne by small columns. The capitals of the
30 ff . 4. _ Map, p. 28. FAGERSTRAND. From Haugsund
columns, the doors and door-frames , and other suitable parts of
the edifice are emhellished with elaborate and fantastic carvings,
representing entwined dragons, intermixed with foliage and figures.
The first documentary evidence of the existence of the church of
Hitterdal dates from 1315, but there is no doubt that it was built
at least as early as the middle of the 13th century. The interior
was adapted to modern requirements in 1850 and has lost part of
its primitive character by the insertion of windows. The nave
contains twelve columns and the choir four. The key ('Neglen') is
obtained at the parsonage, opposite the entrance to the church.
The road continues tolerably level. The gaards of Bamle and
Kaasa are passed. To the left we long have a view of the Ui-
mingen (3450 ft.), an isolated pyramidal mountain, sometimes
ascended for the sake of the view (from Hitterdal over the Himingen
to Levheim, 7-8 hrs., with guide). Beyond the Himingen, also to
the left, is the Hsksfjeld (p. 29). To the right rises the Kjeiving-
fjeld (2265 ft.}, which our road skirts towards the N., while the
road to Levheim (p. 32) diverges to the left.
We ascend the course of the 0rvceUa, a stream which has forced
its way through huge masses of debris, now overgrown with pines
and firs, and cross it several times. At the 'Plads' Bakken, about
22 Kil. from Notodden, the horses are rested. The road from Grans-
herred and Bolkesje (p. 29) joins ours on the right, 5 Kil. farther
on. After 5 Kil. more wo reach —
32 Kil. Tinoset {^Hot. Tinoset, R. 2, B. IV4-IV2, D- 2-21/2, S.
II/4-I1/0 kr.), agroupof houses at the S. end of theTinsj* (605 ft.),
a lake about 22 Engl. M. long and 1-1^/2 ^l^- i" width. A small
screw-steamboat plies on the lake.
The Tinsjer resembles the Spirillen, but its banks are lower. The
steamer calls at Sanden (on the left) and Hovin (on the right), and
at several other stations. The finest point in the landscape is the
Haakenasfjeld, which the steamer skirts. Beyond it, 2^/4 hrs. from
Tinoset, we reach —
Fagerstrand (^Fager strand's Hotel, at the pier, R. 1 V2-2, B- 1 V4)
D. 2, S. 11/2 l^r. ; clean), near the church of Mai, at the mouth of the
Maan-Elv.
The good road (carriages, p. 27) ascends the beautiful Fesi/)'ord-
Dal, on the left laank of the Maan-Elv. To the right opens the
Haakedal. The imposing Gausta soon becomes visible on the left.
In 1 hr. we reach (9 Kil.) Nyland (small inn), whence the Gausta
(p. 32) may be ascended in 3 hrs., with guide. Beyond (3 Kil.)
the straggling village oi Dale (no inn) the road ascends, at first
gently and then more abruptly, to Vaae (1730 ft.) , 22 Kil. from
Fagerstrand. Grand view of the Gausta, as we look back.
The road continues to ascend circuitously , and in 1-1 '/4 ^^'
after leaving Vaae we reach (4 Kil.) —
Fosso (Rjiiknn Turht-Hotel), which commands a fine view of
to the Hardanger Fjord. RJUKANF0S. 4. Route. 31
the uaagniflcent *Rjukanfo3 ('reeking' or 'foaming taU'j. The
waterfall, formed by the copious Maan-Elv, makes an almost
perpendicular descent of 416 ft. into the ravine, in two stages, the
Kvernhusfos (65 ft.) and the main fall (350 ft.). The scene is
stupendous in the early summer, when the river is swollen with
melted snow. A path descends into the valley, affording a view
of the fall from helow. There is a bridge above the fall.
From the Maan-Elv bridge to the Ttiddnl Sanatorium (p. 32), ca. 8 hrs.
(guide).
From the Rjckanfos to the Haudanger Fjord : two routes, one to
Odde, another to Eidfjord; the former is preferable, but both are fatigu-
ing and should not be attempted before July. Guides are necessary on
parts (if both routes (bargain advisable). Provisions should be brought.
To OpDE, 4-5 days: — 1st Day. From Fosso by the above-mentioned
footpath, then (without crossing the bridge) up the left bank ofthe Jlaan-
Elv, often through snow in the early summer, to (4 hrs) Holvik (poor
inn), on the Mjesvand (2960 ft.), a lake 22 M. long, l-2>/j M. broad, and
148 ft. deep. To the W. rises the huge Raulandsfjeld (5175 ft.). From
Holvik we row either direct across the E. tip of the Mj0svand ('/a-i/'^ hr. ;
.500.) or towards the E. to \.\ie.(i-\}liiiT.) Erlandsgaard. From each land-
ing-place rough and sometimes marshy paths (marked, but guide desirable)
lead to (3-4 hrs.) the gaard of Qxbi}en.,on theS E. arm of the second Mjasvand.
Hence we row across the lake (^ji-^^i hr. ; 50 0.) and walk (guide necessary)
to (4-5 hrs.) Berge, on the Totakvand (2245 ft. ; accommodation at the Mid-
gaard, ^/t M. farther to the W.), a lake 15 sq. M. in area and 820 ft. in
depth. — 2nd Day. Row (each pers. 1'/-.' kr.) from Berge in 1 hr. to Kosthveil
on the S. bank; ride or drive thence in 2^2 hrs. to (14 Kil.) Jamsgaard i
Vinje. and thence to (4 Kil.) Heggesteil, on the Haukeli road (see p. 33).
(Walkers will find the following route more interesting, though also more
trying: from Berge-Midgaard to iiruHgiid (no habitation.s) in 2 hrs. by boat
(each pcrs. I'/z kr.) ; thence a steep ascent on foot through the Gvungedals-
bygd, part of the way marshy, 2-2'/2 hrs. (interesting view of the Grungedal
from the top); next an abrupt descent of Vi-V-i ^''- *o the road mentioned
at p. 40, which we reach near the bridge over the Grungedals-Elv; and,
lastly, along this road towards the W. to ('/s hr.) Rui (p. 40).] From
Uui to (jdde, two days.
To THE V((KiNGSFOS AND Eidfjord, 3-4 days: — 1st Day. From li'osso
to Holvik (see above) in 4 hrs. ; row thence in 3'/'2 hrs. to Afjesstrand, and
in 3'/2-4 hrs. more to the N. end of the lake; walk in '/•-' hr. to Mogen
(poor quarters). — 2nd Day (with guide to Eidfjord, 16 kr.). The path
ascends to the N.W. to the (6 Kil.) Ojuvsje, abounding in fish, passes
several small tarns on the left, and crosses (9 Kil.) the Gjuvaa or Skvcel/a.
It next passes three mountain-lakes, where the soil is boggy and the
scenery desolate. The Fjeldfje remains to the left, the Lakensja and the
large Nordmandilaagen (4156 ft.) to the right. On the last-named is the
refuge-hut Sandhoug, belonging to Sylvfest H. Kvammen , a good guide.
Lastly we cross the Bessa-Elv, a considerable stream which falls into the
Nonnandslaagen , and soon reach (after a laborious walk of 12-13 hrs. in
all) the stone hut of Sessabu (very poor fiuartersl. — 3rd Day. Over the
wild and bleak Hardanger i'idda to (25 Kil.) Bwrrastelen in 5-6 hrs.,
whence a good path leads in 2 hrs. to the (9 Kil.) FosH Hotel, above the
Veringsfot (p. 112).
Travellers bound for the Hardangtsu Fjord (orSkien), who wish
to avoid the above-mentioned mountain-route, should drive back to
Hitterdal-Notodden (4-5 hrs. ; p. 'I'd) and take the steamer there
(twice daily on week-days, once on Sun.). This vessel crosses the
Hitterdalsvand (10 M. long), calls at Farodden or Farvolden at its
32 Route 4.— Map.p.DS. SKOVHEIM.
S. eml, ami tlien descends the Saiier-Eto, which expands at first
into the Braafjord. Beyond Aslakshorg or Aarnces the steamer enters
tlie Nordsj0 (p. 36) and soon reaches Vtefos (in all abont 2^/2 hrs. ;
fare 2 kr. 30 e. ; to Skien in i^/o hrs., fare 3 kr. 70 c). From Ule-
fos to Dalen, see pp. 37-39.
The following route is less advisable (carr. from Kongsberg to
Kirkeb0, see p. 27). At the point where the Tinsjc' road reaches
the Hitterdal road (p. 29), we follow the latter, not to the left to
Hitterdal, but up the valley, along the H/oprdais-Biy, to Landsvark
(inn) and the skyds-station of —
Lavheim (Levheim's Hotel), situated amid pretty scenery, 19 Kil.
from Tinoset, 22 Kil. from Notodden, and a little to the E. of
Saulands Kirke.
From Ii0viiKiM to Siljord (see below), about 24 Kil., a moiintain-patb
leads tn the S.W., ascending the valley of the Mjcclla. On the Slaakv-
vand, halfway, is the Hotel Lifjeld, the starting-point for the ascent of
the Lifjeld (.see below).
To the N.W., from L^vheim a rnad ascends the Orundincfsdal, pass-
ing Afoen and the Senlandsrand, to (23 Kil.) the Hotel Bjaar, whence it
leads via the BJaarvand, the church of Tuddal, and the Kovstiilvand to
the "Tuddal Sanatorium (32 Kil. from Levheim; R. 1-3, board 3V2-4 kr.),
.situated amid pine-wooda on the Kovsliilheia (ca. 3280 ft.). In the neigh-
bourhood are several walks affording fine views. — The "Gausta (6180 ft.),
the highest mountain in S. Korway, affording a view like that from the
Galdli0pig (p. 153), is ascended from the Sanatorium in 4-5 hrs. (not
difficult, but fatiguing). The 12 lieds in the tourist-hut at the top are often
all occupied. The descent may be made to the Rjukanfos (p. 31).
A little farther on is Mosehe (quarters at the Landhandler's).
The scenery becomes wilder and grander. We pass the Hjarsje
(490 ft.) on the left.
18 Kil. Skovlieim i Hjardal or Skoghe'im i Hjertdal {Flntland''s
Hotel, R. H/o, B. 1, D. 2, S. lV2kr., very fair) is the starting-
point for the ascent of the Vindeggen (4890 ft. ; 5-6 hrs., with
guide; there and back 8-10 hrs.), which towers to the N.
About 7 Kil. from Skovheim the Heggestel road diverges to the
S. from the road leading to the N. W. to (23 Kil.) Aamotsdal, crosses
the watershed of theHjaerdal, and descends in zigzags, commanding
beautiful views, to Flatdal, with its little church and sprinkling of
farms. It then skirts the E. bank of the Flatdalsvand, with the
Skorvefjeld (4380 ft.) rising in the background. Adjoining the lake
is the Spaadomsniit, the falling of which into the water, according
to tradition, will be the prelude to the end of the world. Farther
on we obtain a view of the Siljordsvand (385 ft.), a picturesque
lake, 8V2 M. in length, and the Lifjeld (5085 ft.), on which two
French aeronauts descended in 1870, having arrived in their balloon
from Paris in 15 hours. At the W. end of the lake lies the church
oi Siljord, where our road crosses the feeder of the lake and is
joined by a road from Ulefos (pp. 37, 38).
22 Kil. Kohbervolden, ne^ir OppeheeniLnd Utbeen, where quarters
may be obtained.
HEGGEST0L. Map, p.:',^.-- 4. li. 38
We pass, 14 kil. from Siljorcl, Brunkebergs-Kirke (1290 ft.),
splendidly situated on the watershed, where the road forks. The
left (S.) arm leads to (17 Kil. from Kobbervolden) Hvideseid-Kir-
kebe, a station of the Bandaksvand steamer (p. 38), which may be
used to complete the journey (1 kr. 30 ».). — The road leads to
the right (N.W.) through the Morgedal, passing two small lakes
(1390 ft.), to -
16 Kil. Hemmestveit i Brunkeberg. It then passes the church of
Heidalsmo (Landvaerk's Hotel) and skirts the Oflevand to —
19 Kil. Mogen (Mogen's Hotel), where a road diverges to the S.
to (11 Kil.) Laurdal on the Bandaksvand (p. 38). — We cross a
range of hills of considerable height. Near (15 Kil.) Aamodt the
road crosses the Toke-Elv, which descends from the Totakvand and
forms a fine fall (288 ft.) called the Hyllandsfos, 8/4 M. to the N, of
Aamodt. We pass Tveiten.
20 Kil. Mule, prettily situated above the E. end of the Vinje-
vand. The road now runs up and down along the N. bank of the
lake, passing several farms, among which is Jamsgaard , where a road
diverges to Kostveit on the Totakvand (p. 31). We then descend
abruptly to the church of Vinje, near the N, W. end of the Vinjevand.
Here a beautiful view is obtained of the Midtfjeld (4580 ft.) and
of the Orm-Eggen to the S.W.
12 Kil. Heggest'ffl (fair station). The road crosses the Vinje-
Elv by a lofty bridge and joins the new road mentioned at p. 40
(to Rui, 12 Kil. more).
5. From Christiania to the Har danger Fjord via Skien,
the Telemarken Canal, and the Haukelifjeld.
T<i Odde 486 Kil. From Christiania to Skien l)y railway, 204 Kil. (express
in 6Y2 hrs., lares 11 kr. 10, 7 kr. 50 0. ; ordinary train in 7-11 hra., fares 9 kr.
20, b kr. ii} 0.). — From Skien to Daleii, 105 Kil., by steamer, twice daily
from about the middle of June onwards, in 8'/a-tl hrs. (fares 8 kr., 4 kr. ;
to Ulefos 1 kr. 80 «»., I kr.; restaurant on board, B. I1/4, D. 2 kr.). — From
Dalen to Odde, 177 Kil., a drive of three days. Landau for 2 pers. 80,
3 pers. 90, 4 pers. ICO kr. (tariff fixed by the Drivers' Union). In the
height of the season the horses, as on the other most frequented routes, are
apt to be over-worked. Conip. p. xxi. — The Haukeli road (p. 41) is
sometimes not free from snow till July.
Since the completion of the Telemarken Canal the route via Skien
and Haukeli is, during the tourist season (comp. p. xiv), the most con-
venient and comfortable approach from Christiania to the Hardanger
Fjord. The distance can sometimes be covered in three days, the nights
being spent at Dalen and Haukeli- Sater. The following distribution of
time is, however, preferable. 1st Day. Railway via Laurvik to Skim (and
possibly on by steamer to Ulefos-Aaheim, p. 37). — 2nd Day. Steamer to
Dalen (by the express-steamer 'Inland' it is possible to reach Dalen late
in the evening of the first day). — 3rd Day. Skyds or carriage to the
Voxli Hotel (p. 41). — 4th Day. Breifond Hotel (p. 42). — 5th Day. Odde. —
An extra day is usually devoted to the interesting excursion from Dalen
to Ravni'jnvet (p. 39). Travellers may, however, go on the same afternoon
to Berte (p. 40), and spend the following nights at the Haukeli- Sifter (v. 41)
and at Seljestad or at the Hotel Ud.^igten on the Se'jeslndjnvet (p. 98). —
Bakuekkk's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 3
o-t Route 6. .SANDEFJOIJD. From ilirisliiuia
Travellers in the reverse direction, leaving Odde in the afternDOn for(4hrs.)
Seljestad, may reach Tox^i (12 hrs.; p. 41) un the second, and Z)afe« (p.39;
10 hr8 J on the third day. This, however, is somewhat fatiguing.
From Christiania to (53 Kil.) Drammen, see R. 3. Through-car-
riages. — The railway ['Jarlsbergbane') from Drammen to Laurvik
and Skien turns to the S.W. (fine retrospect), past the suburb of
Tangen, and slowly ascends (1 : 80) the Kobberviksdal, the highest
point of which (260 ft.) is reached at (63 Kil.) Skouger. 69 Kil.
Galleherg. 73 Kil. Sande, v?ith the church of that name, near the
Sandebugt, of which we get a fine view to the left. The train now
skirts the picturesque fjord.
86 Kil. Holmestrand (Rail. Restaurant; Hot. Societelen, near
the station, R. 2-272, B. 1, D. IVsA S. li/otr.), a sea-bathing
place with 2500 inhab., is prettily situated at the foot of a steep
porphyry cliff, ascended by a zigzag path (view of the fjord). — A
branch-line runs hence to the W. via HiUestad to (30 Kil.) Viltingfos.
96 Kil. Nykirke. — 100 Kil. Skoppmn, near the Borrevand;
branch-line hence to Borre and ( 7 Kil.) Horten, on the Christiania
Fjord (p. 8). — 103 Kil. Augedat; 109 Kil. Barkaker. To the right
we see the chateau of Jarlsberg. The train passes Tensberg on the
left, and runs back for 2 Kil., passing through a short tunnel, to —
115 Kil.Tensherg (Victoria Hotel, R. 2, D. 2, S. lV2kr., good
cuisine; Grand Hotel, both near the station), with 8600 inhab.,
famous as seafarers, the oldest town in Norway, dating from the
time of Harald Haarfager. About fifty whalers and seal-hunting
vessels (one-third steamers) annually start from this port. Most
of the sailors live on the Netere and the Tjeme, to the S. of T«ns-
berg. By following Anders-Madsens-Gaden between the Grand
Hotel and the church ('Vagtmester ved Slotstaarnet' in a house on
the left) and then (I/4 hr.) ascending to the left, we reach the Castle
Hill above the town, under which the railway tunnel passes. The
Slotstaarn at the top affords a wide view and contains a collection of
antiquities and whaling implements. — A branch-line runs hence to
the N., via HiUestad (see above), to (48 Kil.) Eidsfos, on Lake Ekern.
At (121 Kil.) Sem or Semb the train crosses the Oulie-Elv.
128 Kil. Stokke; 135 Kil. Raastad. To the right lies Gogstad
(see p. 13).
139 Kil. Sandefjord (Grand Hotel, very fair, R. 2, D. 2, S.
I'/o kr. ; Hotel Kong Karl; Heidemark^s Hotel), a favourite water-
ing-place with 4800 inhab., and sulphurous, saline, and chalybeate
springs, prettily situated on the fjord of the same name. The sea
swarms with medusa ('maneter'), which are said to be beneficial to
bathers. There are factories in the N. part of the town. — The
Jattegryder near the Guard Aasen are interesting ; the largest is
23 It. deep. Similar 'giant's cauldrons' at the (S^/2 M.) Vindalsbugt
may be visited by boat. The whole region between Tensberg and
Laurvik is historic ground. At Hjertnais are several 'bautastenar'.
•J'
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SYDL.TELEMARKEN
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SYDL TELEMARKEN
6
In the Hiir<liiu,ier Fjord. LAIUVIK. 5. Ilovte. 35
144 Kil. Joberg, in a wooded and nioiiotouous district; 149 Kil.
Tjelling, with a view of the Laurviksfjord as far as Fredriksvaern.
The train crosses the Laagen or Laugen (p. 27), by a bridge 183yds.
long, to the suburb of Thorstrand, passes through two tunnels, and
reaches —
158 Kil. Laurvik. — Hotels. Grand Hotel, K. 21/2-4V.:, B. 1, D. (at
2 p.m.) 2. S. li/i ^T.; Thora Hansen's Hotel, R. 134-3, B. li/i, D. (»(
1.30 p.m.) 2, S. l'/2 ki".. both near the railway-statiim and the pier. —
Laurviks Bad, with mineral and sulphur springs and mud-baths; hoard
18 kr. weekly, 64 kr. monthly, K. 20-50 kr. per month. 'Kurpenge', or visi-
tors' tax , for baths, physician, etc., 22 kr. per week for the first fort-
night, 20 kr. per week for the second fortnight, and afterwards 15 kr.
per week. — Sea Batus, to the W. of the harbour. — British Vice-Constil-
Mr. Fred. Dahm. — LloyiVs Agents, Messrs. JI. Oppen & Co.
Laurvik, Larvik, or Larvig, formerly the capital of the county
of that name, with 10,600 inhab. and the suburbs of Langestrand
to the "W. and Ihorstrand to the E. [with large bottle-works), is
beautifully situated on the Laurviksfjord, near the mouth of the
Laagen, Part of the town was burned down in 1902.
The station lies on the harbour, which the railway skirts. Pleas-
ant walk on the long quays. The streets running inland ascend to
the *B0geskov, a fine beech-plantation above the highest houses on
the N. side of the town. Near the entrance are a cafe and a music
pavilion, where a band often plays in the afternoon. Among the
finest of the walks in the wood is that leading from the pavilion to
the right (^N.E.) to a point commanding a line view of the Farisvand
to the left. Another walk may be taken from the station to the E.
to Laurviks Kirke, and to Herregaurdsbakken (in all li/2"2hrs.). —
The large building to the S., conspicuous in approaching Laurvik
by sea, is the old manor-house of Fritsehus.
The train (_best views to the right) crosses the Faris-ELv (which
drives the Fritse Jernvark and several other factories), ascends
to the Farisvand, and skirts its W. bank, passing through a series of
short tunnels. The scenery is a pleasant mingling of field and wood.
— 169 Kil. TJose; 182 Kil. Aaklungen, on the small lake of that name
(135 ft.). Then past several lakes. 188 Kil. Birkedalen (235 ft.).
192 Kil. Eidanger, '/^ ^r. from the station, pleasantly situated
a mill woods on the Eidanger Fjord.
From Eidancek to Brevik, 9 Kil., railway in 21 min. (fares 40. 300.). —
The first part of the line traverses fine woods. 2 Kil Nystvand (Kidanger
Hotel), on the Eidanger Fjord, the W. bank of which is skirled by the
railway. — 4 Kil. Skjelsvik; 6 Kil. Htistad. — 9 Kil. Brevik (Hot. Yikin<j,
on the fjord, '/•• ^^- from the rail. stat. and the pier; Siiansen) , with
2000 inhab., is charmingly situated at the S.K. end of a rocky peninsula
which separates the Eidanger Fjord from the Friers/Jord. Opposite, to
the S., is the little town of Stalhelle. — From Brevik steamers ply to
Cbristiania and Christiansand.
195 Kil. Porsgrund (Stiansen's Hotel; Victoria, an old manor
house, ','4 M. from the rail, stat., simply fitted up, R. 2 kr.; Brit,
vice-consul, Mr. James Franklin), a town of 4900 inhab., lies on
both banks of the Skiens-Elv, which descends from the Nordsje and
3*
36 H. 5. — Map, j>. 3i. SKIEN. , From Christiania
enters a bay of the Friersfjord II/2 M. below the town, bringing
yearly I1/2 million logs to the sea. Porsgrund is famous for its
porcelain. — We now ascend the left bank of the broad Skiens-
Elv, througJi a smiling district with numerous farms. A tunnel is
traversed near —
204 Kil. Skieu. — Hotels. Hayek's Hotel, with electric light and
hatha, li. from S'A, B. 1"/:, D. (2-5 p.m.) 2i/4, S. lV'il<r. ; Rotal Hotel,
both near the rail, station and the pier of the sea-going steamers; Grand
Hotel, at the W. end of Telemarks-Gaden, with view of the wharf of
the Telemarken steamers, with baths and electric light, well spoken of,
R. 2-4, B. 11/2, D- (2.30 p.m.) 21/4, S. IV2 kr. — Cafi-Restaurant in the
Fesiivitets-Lokal; also good warm baths {^/i-i kr. ; tickets opposite, at the
confectioner's).
Post Office, in the Raadhus, Torv-Gaden, near the harbour. — Lloyd's
Agents, Mdssrs. M. Oppen <C- Co., at Laurvik (p. 35).
Steamers. To Telemarken twice daily (once on Sun.), both to Ule/os
iiiid Dalen and to Ulefos and Hitterdal (p. 31); pier nearly 3/4 M. from the
rail. Stat, (cabs in waiting). — Sea-going steamers ply daily to Pm-sgrund,
Lanyesund, and Christiania.
Skien (pron. Sheen), the ancient Skida, a commercial and indus-
trial town with 11,300 inhab., dates from the 14th cent., but has
been repeatedly burned down (last in 1886) and rebuilt in a more
substantial style. Skien is the birthplace of the dramatist Henrik
Ibsen (b. 1828). The town lies on the N. bank of the Skiens-ELv,
which here breaks through a rocky barrier in two falls and forms a
roomy harbour. In the Jernbane-Torv, at the harbour, are the liail-
uHiy Station and tlie handsome iJaadftus, with its arcaded vestibule.
The broad Prindsens-Gade ascends hence to the new Church.^ a Gothic
brick building by J. H. Bergh, with two lofty spires. The square in
front of the church is adorned with a fountain and is adjoined by
.Skiejis Festivitets-Lokal, with a public library, baths, and a cafe-re-
staurant. — The street named 'Broerne' (bridges) ascends from near
the wharf of the Telemarken steamers to the Damfos and ih&Kloster-
fos, the two waterfalls mentioned above. On a small island between
them formerly stood the nunnery of Gimse, founded in 1110. — On
the steep Bratshergklev, to the S.E. of the town, are the ruins of the
Bratsberg Chapel, which has given its name to the entire district
(line view by morning-light). It is reached from the rail, station in
20 min. by the Ny Skotlandsvei and a flight of wooden steps.
The Telemarken Steamer (fair restaurant on board), which
starts above the Damfos, ascends the Skiens-Elv , passes several
factories, and reaches ('/.> hr.) the three *Locks of Leveid, con-
structed in 1861 to meet the different levels of the Nordsja and the
Skiens-Elv. They are hewn, like those of Trollhattan, out of the
rock. The passage of the locks takes 20 minutes. The fourth lock is
used when the water is exceptionally high. A bust commemorates
Amtmann Aall, the chief promoter of the canal.
The steamer next passes several small islands and soon enters
the Nordsj«r (207 ft. above sea-level), the chief lake of Telemarken,
to the Hardanger Fjord. ULEFOS. Map, p, 34. — 5. R. 37
'28 Kil. (_17V2 J^^O i" length and 575 ft. deep ; it receives the over-
flow of several other lakes. The banks are surrounded by low
wooded hills. High up to the right, near the entrance, is the St.
Mikaelshul, or St. Michael's cave, where Roman Catholic services
were formerly held. Farther on we have a view to the right of the
cburch-tower of Romnses and of the N. part of the lake (^traversed
by the Hitterdal steamer; p. 31). In about 2 hrs. after leaving Skien
we reach —
Ulefos I Holden (1500 inhab.), situated on both banks of the
Eids-Elv, which descends from the great Telemarken lakes and
here enters the Nordsja. Its water affords the motive power of
several wood-pulp and other factories. One of the finest of the
pretty private residences is the castellated villa of the Aall family,
with its garden (right). To the left is the church of Holden. Car-
riages meet the steamer to convey passengers to (^^4 ^^0 Aaheim's
Hotel (see below). — Steamer to Hitterdal, see p. 3'2.
Ulefos is the starting-point of the *Bandak-Nordsj0 Canal,
constructed in 1889-92 at a cost of 3,000,000 kr. to overcome the
difference of level (190 ft.) between the two lakes. It follows the
channel of the Eids-Elv and is 17 Kil. long. The work offered special
difficulties, as some of the 17 locks could not be hewn out of the
rock but had to be formed with the aid of enormous dams of ma-
sonry. The steamboat takes 23/4-3 hrs. to ascend from Ulefos to
Uogga, the last lock (in the reverse direction 21/2 hrs.).
The Ulefos, the lowest fall of the Eids-Elv, is 3()ft. liigh. The
steamer ascends this height by three locks. At the top is an arched
wooden bridge. The first station (iiot touched at by the express-
steamer) is Aaheim (Aahehns Hotel, very fair, with pretty grounds),
"beyond which we reach the Eidsfos (32 ft. high; seen to the left),
overcome by two locks. It takes six locks to counteract the impetuous
rapids of the *Vrangfos, a little farther on. At the top of this series
of locks is a gigantic dam of red granite, 106 ft. higli and 70 ft. wide
at its lowest part, the overflow at wliich forms a fine fall of 75 ft.
(right). The banks are here connected by a small bridge.
The steamer takes nearly an hour (40 min. downwards) to ascend
from the lower Eidsfds luck to the uppermost Vranglos lock. The traveller
should therefore leave the steamer, cross the bridge just above the Eids-
fos, and follow the good path i.n the right bank, through wood, to (25 min.)
the uppermost Vrangfos lock. Near the end of this walk, to the right, is
a view-piiint, with a stone table, atTording a fine view of the whole gigan-
tic staircase of locks. Passengers in the other direction should also take
this walk.
The steamer now ascends the wide river, which has been much
deepened through the construction of the dams. The banks are
thickly wooded, with here and there a farm-house surrounded by
crops and pastures. At an expansion of the river we see the Nuke-
fjeld (1285 ft.; ascended from Ulefos in 3-4 hrs.), to the S., while
the Lifjeld (p. 32) rises to the N. On the left (N.) bank lies the
38 R.5. — Map,p.34. KIRKEB0. . From Christiania
churcli of Lunde, opposite wliich is Lundefaret, sometimes touched
at ty the steamer. We gain 10 ft. by the lock of Lunde or Qroot-
euje, 7 Kil. from Vrangfos, and 10 ft. more by the lock of Kjeldal,
3 Kil. farther on.
The last locks are at (2 Kil.) Hogga and raise the steamer 23 ft.
The level of the lakes above Hogga is maintained by an immense
dam, for the foundations of which It was found necessary to dig
down 25 ft. below the bottom of the river.
Between the Flaa-Kirke, on the N. bank, and the station of
Strcengen, on the S. bank, the steamer enters the E, end of the
Flaavand (235 ft.). The elk is still found in the forests on the
bnnks. At the W. end of the lake (15 Kil. from Straengen) the
steamer enters the narrow Fjaagesund and soon reaches theHvidesj«
(185 ft.). The mountains become higher and steeper: to the right
rises the Brnkefjeld (3540 ft.), to the left, in the distance, the bare
lloboltfjeld (3345 ft.), and to the W. the pointed Rauberg-Nuten.
At the upper end of the lake lies the wooded island of Buke.
To the right opens the small lake of *Sundkile (4 Kil. long),
surrounded by picturesque mountains and entered by a narrow
strait crossed by a drawbridge. The afternoon-steamer (express)
does not eiiter the Sundkile. The others pass the bridge and call
at Kirkeb«r {^Hotel Hvideseid, at the pier), pleasantly sittiated at
the upper end of the bay. A skyds-road runs hence to the N. to
(17 Kil.) Kobbervoldeu (p. 32j, passing Brunkebergs Kirke, about
3 Kil. distant. — The steamer returns to the Sundkile, rounds the
promontory oi Spjosodden, and stops at Smedodden, on tlie S. bank,
near the church of Hvideseid, at the W. end of the lake.
From Hvideseid to Arendal (145 Kil.). The road ascends rapidly ,
nnd then descends to (7 Kil.) Strand i Vraadal (tolerable), a little to the
W. of wliich lies the Vraavand (p. 39). Our route turns to the S.
and skirts the E. bank of the Nisstfvand (795 ft.), a fine sheet of water,
34 Kil. long (steamer), affording trout-fishing. The next stages are:
17 Kil. Vik i Nisserdal; 26 Kil. Homme i Treungen; then past the Hegfos,
formed by the Nisser-Elv; 19 Kil. .^i i Aamli; 16 Kil. Neergaarden i
Aamli (good quarters); 13 Kil. Simonslad (p. 7). Thence to Arendal,
.see p. 7.
Beyond Hvideseid the steamer passes through the artificial
channel of Skarpstremmen (6 Kil. long), connecting the Hvidesje
with the *Bandaksvand (205 ft.), a picturesque lake, 27 Kil. long,
enclosed by imposing mountains. The first view of the lake, beyond
the station of Apalsfe (right) and the high rocky island of Bandakse
(left), is very striking. Farther on, to the left, is the rock called
St. Olafs Ship. The scenery afterwards becomes a little monotonous,
but the W. end of the lake is enclosed by a fine group of moun-
tains belonging to the Ssetersdal.
About 1 hr. from Hvideseid the steamer touches at 2'riset, by
the church of Laurdal (Bakkes Hotel, at the pier), situated on
the N. bank of the lake, amidst rich vegetation. A good road leads
hence to Ofte i Tfpiidnlsmn (11 Kil.; p, 331. — ^ *^" the S. bank of
to the Hardanger Fjord. DALEN. Map$,pp.34,28. — 5.R. 39
the lake, opposite Laurdal, lies Bandakslid, also a steamboat
station, but not always called at.
From Bandakslid (.'slow' station) the hill is crossed by a zigzag road
to (5Kil.) Midtgaarden (fast station). The road then leads to the S., past
the W. end of the. Vraavand (850 ft.; steamer), and ascends the course of
the river which falls into it. This stream forms the picturesque "lAlle
Rjukanfot near the road and emerges from the Skredvand (1085 ft.), a little
higher up. We follow the E. bank of this lake to (8 Kil.) liindebakken
(slow station), beyond which we pass Veum and reach (15 Kil.) Afoland, on
the /V'*'""''^ C^5 Kil. in length). Between Veum and Moland the Bispevi-i
diverges to the W. to Viken in the Swtersdal (p. 5).
The lake contracts and the mountains become more imposing,
especially on the N. side. About 1 hr. after leaving Triset the
steamer reaches its terminus —
Dalen. — "Hotel Dalen, -ji M. from the quay, with garden, electric
light, baths, and a good view of the lake, R. from 2, B. I'/z, U- (2 p.m.) 2'/i,
S. (8 p.m.) l'/2 kr. (noisy at night on account of the arrival of the late
steamer). — Hotel Folkvamg, R. 1'/2-2, K. 1, D. (2 p.m.) l'/-, S. 1 kr.,
omn. free; Hotel Handak, very fair, similar charges; Tokedalen's, by
the pier. — English Church Service in July and August.
Dalen, at the W. end of the Bandaksvand, into which the Toke-
Elv falls here, is the starting-point of tlie new road over the Hau-
kelifjeld. There is an abundant supply of horses and carriages
(comp. p. 33), but landaus should be engaged beforehand.
Excursion TO Uavnejuvet, attractive (there and back on foot 0-7 hrs. ;
stolkjarre to Eid>borg 5 kr. ; provisions .'hould be taken, a^ none are
obtainable en routel. The narrow road, beginning about 1/4 ^^I- from the
quay, ascends to the N. in long zigzags, on a rocky slope 1300-1600 ft.
liinh. After about 1 hr. the road turns inland and becomes more level.
About 200 yds. beyond the farm of (20 min.) Reffelhrwk (post-office) we
avoid the road to the right and proceed to the left to the lake and (10 min )
old timber church of Eidshorg (2300 ft.). The door of the latter is adorned
with carving (defaced); the interior has been entirely modernized. We
leave the church to the left, skirt the lake (which lies considerably below),
and ascend by a poor bridle-path up the steep Eidsborgans. The path then
becomes level for some time and again ascends abruptly. The highest
point (I hr. from Eidsborg) aflords a line view of the dark-green moun-
tains to the N. Farther on we descend, amid rocks and wood, to (V2 hr.)
a small saw-mill. A path diverges here to the left to the Molands-Swler,
but we go straight on across the brook. A tablet about 10 min. farther
on, on a tree to the left, indicates the way to "Ravnejuvet, or Raviie-
djupet, a, perpendicular rock, lOyO ft. above the turbulent Toke-Elv, and
commanding a splendid view of the Libygfjeld and the district of Na>s-
land. There is a constant current of air here ascending from below, so
that pieces of paper thrown from the rock do not fall but are carried
back over our heads. To the left, in the valley, we see the great sweep
of the road described below. A pavilion commemorates the visit of King
Oscar II. in 1879. — Riders and walkers may continue their journey to
the N. from Ravnejuvet. The path at first loads through forest, and after-
wards descends rapidly and crosses the Tvke Elv. In i-V/i hr. we reach
tlie hamlet of Ma-shmd, where the gaard of Sandok affords good quarters.
Jt is also a skyds-stalion (to Mule in l'/j-2 hrs. ; 4 kr. ; p. 33).
Pass from Dalen to the Swtersdal, see p. 5.
The Road to tub Haruangeu Fjoud crosses the broad Toke-
Klv by an iron bridge, about 1 Kil. from Dalen, and soon enters
the forest. Fartlicr on, at the month of the Botnedal, the old road
to Mo (p. 40) diverges to the left. The new road crosses the
40 R.5. — Mnp,p.28. B0RTEVAND. From Christiania
stream and sweeps upward, Ligh above the brawling Toke-Elv.
Where it crosses the Rokke-Elv walkers may avoid a long bend by
ascending steeply on the left bank. The road continues to ascend
for at least 2 Kil. along the W. slope of the valley of the Toke-Elv,
affording a grand view of the valley and the precipitous heights to
the E. (^Ravnejuvet, see p. 39). It then describes a sharp curve,
still ascending, while a road to Ntesland fp. 39) diverges to the
right. The road is partly hewn in the living rock and traverses
fine coniferous woods, high up on the N. slope of the valley of the
Rokke-Elv. At an opening in the wood we have a peep of the
church of Mo to the left, on a small lake; on the slope below are
several farms.
15 Kil. Moen. — Farther on we cross the Rokke-Elv, joining
the old road on the right bank. After passing the parsonage of Mo
we reach the lower end of the Bertevand. The road passes Berteosen
and undulates along the W. bank of the lake, above which rises
the abrupt Rautefjeld (4725 ft.). The E. bank is entirely un-
cultivated, and rises in jagged rocky walls, sprinkled with trees.
The road crosses the Berte-Elv and, beyond the Hotel Berte (where
it is joined by the bridle-path from Bredvik in the Saetersdal, see
p. 6), turns inland and crosses the ridge of Bertegrenden, beyond
which we enjoy a fine view of the upper end of the Bertevand. We
ascend gradually over the Berteheia^ through beautiful fir-woods.
The view becomes more open a short way beyond the top. The road
descends in windings and joins the Hitterdal road at (8 Kil.) a
'Landhandleri' above the Vinjevand and Heggestel (p. 33), which,
however, are not visible from this point.
Tbe old road, which we now follow to the left, is pretty poor.
It crosses the Rus-Elv and ascends, though with numerous dips,
through the valley of the Smerklep-Elv and along the E. slope of
the SmerkUpfjeld. Several farms are passed. The Flaatebunut on
the Totakvand comes into sight to the N,, and remains in view
during the rest of the journey through the somewhat monotonou.s
valley. The road crosses the river, and is here joined on the right
by a footpath from Brunelid on the Totakvand (p. 31). It then turns
sharply to the W. and soon reaches —
31 Kil. Rui (tolerable inn), near the pretty Grungedalsvand
(1590 ft.).
The next part of the route, skirting the green but shallow lake,
and affording a good view of the Gurifjeld, is very picturesque.
The road, however, is very rough and uneven. A party would do
well to take one skyds for their baggage (p. xxii), and walk toBotten.
Beyond the yellowish -brown Church of Grungedal we reach the
farms of Edland or EUandt, the Hotel Haukeli, where the road
crosses the foaming Geislaus-Elv, and (fully 1 Kil. farther on) the
new Hotel Haukelid Grand.
Farther on we follow the left bank of the Flaathyl-Elv. To the
to the Hardangtr Fjord. HAUKELT. Maps, pp. 28, 10-2. — 5. R. 41
left (^S. j, at kilometre-stoiie 170 (from Skieii), we see the fine Vafos,
descending from the Ntdre Langeidvand in a series of bold leaps.
The route now ascends a monotonous valley, passing a few farms,
of which the two of Flaathyl are the most important. We cross the
stream twice. After having forced its way through a rocky harrier
in a series of falls and rapids, the Flaathyl-Elv forms several Hel,
or deep pools. The largest of the waterfalls (to the left, close to the
road) is the Lille Rjukan fos (^'little smoking fall'), the best point for
surveying which is the projecting rock near its foot. The largest Hcl
is the Ekelidhel (2290 ft.). Continuing to ascend, we at last reach —
27 Kil. Botten or B' An (2590 ft. ; good station ; shooting and
tishing), on the pretty Voxlivand (2500 ft.), which the road skirts.
About '/2 ^^- farther on, to the left, is the Voxli or Vaagsli Hotel
(fair ; R. 1 V2"2, B. or S. 1 kr.), commanding a line view of the lake.
The road passes several farms and the last sparse crops of barley
and potatoes. Farther on are the small Hotel Nystel, and then the
Arrebuvand and theEvenbuvand. This region is almost uninhabited,
a few old and dying pines alone relieving its monotony. Near kilo-
metre-stone 190 we reach the Krcekledyr Sknr, commanding a fine
*View of the mountains to the W.: to the left Vasdalseggen (5765ft.),
then Kistenuten, the Kallevashein, and Sveien. Below us, to the
left, lies the Kjalavand (2940 ft.), to the S. of which rises the
Kjalatlnd. Trees disappear.
18 Kil. Haukeli-Sseter (*Knud Hnukelisater s Inn., consisting of
several houses, the main one in the Norwegian style by H. Muntlie,
11. 1-2, 15._ 1-11/4, 1). 11/2-2, S. 11/0 kr.), at the E. end of the Staa-
vdx^d (3085 ft.l, situated amidst imposing scenery, and commanding
an unimpeded view of the fjeld. The peaks and even parts of the
plateau remain covered with snow as late as August. The Kistemit,
to the S. of the Staavand (there and back 3-4 hrs.), and the Lille
Nup, to the N. of the Haukeli-Saeter (6 hrs.), afford wide views.
The good road leads to the N.W., skirting the Staavand. After
about 10 mill, we get a glimpse of the Storefond to the right, and
1/4 hr. farther on is a ruined bridge on the left, over which the
old bridle-path led. About 21/2 M. from Haukeli we cross the
L'Uvaa-Elv, which descends from the N. and forms the boundary
between the districts of Bratsberg and Sendre Bergenhus; to the
right it forms several low but very broad cascades. After 1 M. more
we reach the Ulevaai-and (3095 ft. ; 2 M. long), to the left, the N.
bank of which our road skirts. We are now in the heart of a fjeld
solitude. To the right wc have a fine view of the precipitous Store.
Nup and tlie Storefond, and to the left Sveien; in front rises the
Stafsnut, to the right of which are the Rekkinysnut and the Midt-
dyr Ruste.
After a drive of 1-1 1/4 hr. (51/2 M.) from Haukeli-Saeter we cross
the Midtdyr-Elv, turn to the S,, and at the foot of the Dyrnut, the
E. part of the Stnf.mut, begin to ascend the pass of Dyreskard
42 R. 5. — Map, p. 102. RfiTLDAL.
(3715 ft.; watershed), the top of which we reach in 1/2 hr. more.
Such masses of snow lie here, even in midsummer, that a tunnel
has to be bored through them every year. To the left is a 'Varde',
erected by King Oscar II. in 1879.
The road now leads to the W. through a -wilderness of snow and
stones, sometimes descending slightly. To the right is Stafsnuten,
to the left Sveien and the narrow green iSfisteinnand. To the left,
below the road, about 972 M- from Haukeli-Saeter, lies the Midt-
Icpger-ScEter ; and on the road is the Nye MidlUrger-Sceter. About
10 mill, later the three houses of Svandals/Janene and several small
lakes appear below us to the left. On the road is a small inn
(D. 2 kr., tolerable). In 10 min. more we reach the hill of Staven,
and in 5 min. more begin to descend. To the right, below, lies the
Tarjehudal, with tlie saeters of Tarjebudal and NyaStel; to the W.,
in front of us, is the Horrehei. In 10 min. we cross by the Risbu-Bro
to the right bank of the Risbu-Aa, and then descend rapidly in
huge zigzags. Near (10 min.) tlie 0stmanlid-Sceter we have a fine
glimpse of the Kie'ldalsvand. The scei\ery improves. After 20 min.
we cross the noisy Vasdals-Elv and follow its right bank, high above
the stream. In front of us is the broad Novle-Fos, near which the
road passes 10 min. later. The river with its numerous rapids is
constantly in sight. The Reldalsvand again (5 min.) comes into
sight, backed by the Holmenut and Reldalsaalen (4125 ft.). A drive
of 12 min. more brings us to —
30 Kil. (pay for 35 Kil. in the reverse direction) 'RelA&l{* Hotel
Reldal, R. 1 V2-2, B. I1/4, D. 2, S. 1 1/2 kr. ; Gryting's Hotel (^ Skyds
Station, D. 1 kr. 70ie'. ; Fredheim's Hotel, plain; Engl. Ch. Serv. in
summer), near the N. end of the Reldalsvand. On the lake, a short
distance from the road, is the church, in which have been in-
corporated the remains of an old 'Stavekirke'. — Farther on we cross
the Tufte-Elv and skirt the lake. At the fork where the roads to the
Bratlandsdal (p. 97) and to Hardanger diverge from each other, we
follow the latter and ascend to (3 Kil.) the *Breifond Hotel (p. 97).
6. From Kongsberg to the Hardanger Fjord through the
Numedal.
4-5 Days. Of the great routes fcomp. pp. 33, 44, 50) leading from E. 'Nor-
way across the Fjeld to the W. coast this is the least attractive and is
seldom used except by Norwegians. The inhabitants, however, are inter-
esting, as they have retained many of their primitive characteristics and
traditions. A Carriage Road with fast stations leads through the Numedal
to Breslentd in the Opdal (123 Kil.), from which driving is also practicable
to Floten, 11 Kil. farther on. Beyond this the traveller must ride or walk.
Kongsberg, see p. 27. — The road, leaving that to the Bolkesje
(p. 28) to the left, follows the right bank of the Laagen.
17 Kil. Svennesund. We cross the Laagen and pass the church
of Svenne, 011 its left bank.
SKJ0NNE. Map,pJpS. — 6.R. 43
14 Kil. Sendre Flesberg, near the church of Flesberg. Farther
on the valley contracts. We cross to the right bank by an iron bridge.
16 Kil. Alfstad [Inn, vrell spoken of). The valley is pretty
wide here. The gaard Fikkan or Fehjan, 6-7 Kil. from Alfstad, also
affords good accommodation, and its owner has constructed a hut for
sportsmen and anglers on the Sorkevand or Serkjevand, 10 M. to
the W. The Fikhm Scpter belongs to Frithiof Nansen, the Arctic
explorer. At the Vagli-Kirkeyte cross the stream, -which here forms
a small fall. On the left bank is the Brobakken Hotel , near the
skyds-station of • — •
17 Kil. Helle (inn). — The road ascends and then descends again
to the Ytre Nore-Fjord or the Kravik-Fjord (868 ft.}, along tlie bank
of which it runs. To the left rises the E'uhfjeld (4940 ft.). One of the
old buildings oi Gaard Kravik is said to date from the 12th century.
On the opposite (right) bank of the river are the old and the new
Nort-Kirke. The road then skirts the 0vre Norefjord (12 Kil. long),
passes the farm of Sevli, and reaches —
27 Kil. Skj«rime (920 ft. ; good quarters), with several old
buildings. Beyond Skjenne the road crosses the Laagen and turns
CO the W. into the Opdal. The scenery becomes very picturesque.
The Opdals-ELv forms several waterfalls. The road ascends rapidly
to the Fennebufjord (1525 ft.).
11 Kil. Liverud, at the W. end of the Fennebufjord, near the
.Stavekirke of Opdat. We continue to ascend, passing several farms
and the new church of Opdal.
21 Kil. Bresterud or Brostrud (_2625 ft.; fair accommodation).
Quarters may also be had at Nerstebe, a little higher up.
From Brpstcrud a mountain-path leads to Neraal in tlie Hallingdal in
l-l'/i'day. It ascends p.ist the Vast a,nd Hufde sseters in 4hvs. to (17 Kil.)
Aasberg (i|uarter3 and horses at Gunnar Aasber^'s ami Halvor K)0naa3's),
in Dagalid (2750 ft.). — Farther on we cross the fjeld to the" Sknrdal
(10 Kil.; 2740 ft.; quarters at the Gitttormsgaard). and then another height
by a road to the (17 Kil.) Ustadal (quarters at Jeilo and Tu/lo); lastly past
several farms to Jfiimmersbeien and Not, near Xeraal (p. 47).
For the route across the mountains to the Hardanger (100 Kil. ;
three days) a guide (Thore dundersen Videsjorden of Opdal) should
be engaged lower down the valley, and a supply of provisions
obtained. The route from the Nerstebe at first follows the sseter-
path, and then traverses the \oUy Hardanger VkWu (4000 ft.), com-
manding an extensive view in every direction. It leads past the
Skarsvand to the Sknrf-Scpter, where the Laagen is crossed by boat.
We pass the night, after a walk of 11-12 hrs., in the tourists' hut
on the Laagelidbjerg, or Laagriberg (3805 ft.).
On the second day we skirt the river, the Gjetsje, and the S'tore
NordmandssUebet, and after a walk of 10 hrs. spend the night in
the tourists' hut at the meeting of the Bjereia and the Svinta. Next
morning our route leads us to the Nybu-Satre (SGOO h.), on the
\ybu:*j0, the first on the W. side of the fjeld (VeMenfjeUhkeKorge).
44 R.7. — Map,p.2-2. KR0DEREN. From Christiania
Beyond tliis we generally follow the course of the Bjereia, which
lower down forms the Verlngsfos (p. 112), and cross snow, brooks,
and marshes. We pass Storlien, Mnurstft, and Garen, and reach
the Fosli Hotel (p. 112} in time to go on to Vik the same day.
7. From Christiania through the Hallingdal to
Laerdals^ren on the Sognefjord (Bergen).
350 Kil. Railway to Krederen, 122 Kil. ; express in 4^4 lirs. (fares 6 kr.
40, 4 kr. 15 0.), ordinary train in S'/z brs. (fares 5 kr. 90, 3 kr. 70 0.). —
Steamek (fair restaurant on board, D. 2 kr.) from Kr^deren to Qiilsvii-,
44 Kil., daily in 2V2-3V2 lirs. (fare 2 kr. 50, 1 kr. 40 0.). — Road from
Gulsvik to LccrdaUeiren, 184 Kil., a drive of 3 days, i'ast skyds-tariDf.
For a carriage and pair ('kaleschvogn'), for two persons, the usual fare is
85 kr., for 3 pers. 100 kr., for 4 pers. 115 kr. (.sometimes less when the
demand is slack), to which a fee of 5-B kr. is added (comp. also p. xxii).
The journey is best divided as follows: (1st Day) From Christiania tO
Gulsvik. (2nd) From Gulsvik to Rolfshus. (3rd) From Rolfshus to Breistelen
or HoBij. (4th) Thence to Lwrdalseren. Or we may spend the first night at
Ifces, the second at BJeberg, and the third at Lwvdalseven. It is even
possible, by travelling 14-18 hrs. a day, to reach Lferdals0ren in 2 days,
spending the night at Rolfshus. As almost all the stations on this route
are either good or tolerable, the traveller may divide his journey as best
suits his convenience.
From Christiania to Vikesund, 96 Kil., see R. 3. A hranch-
line (carriages changed) runs thence to Snarum and —
26 Kil. Kr«deren (^Restaurant ; Hotel Krederen ij- Skyds Station,
opposite the rail, station ; Kalager's Hotel, V4M. distant, both plain),
prettily situated at the S. end of Lake Kr«rderen (445 ft.; 16 sq. M.
in area, 100 ft. deep), near the efflux of the Snarums-Elv. The
pier is 1/2 M. from the station. The lower part of the lake is sur-
rounded by smiling hills. A skyds-road skirts the N.E. bank.
Beyond the church o( Kredsherred or Olberg, which lies on this road,
the lake contracts to the river-like Noresund. The road crosses
here and continues its course on the W. bank, with the steamboat-
station of Sandum. Farther on the lake again expands, and the
scenery becomes wilder, especially beyond Nces, where the broad-
backed Norefjeld (4980 ft.) rises boldly above the lake on the left.
The interesting Ascent of the Noeefjeld (10 hrs.) is best made from
Siinchim (see above; steamer from Krederen 1 kr. 10 0.). We ascend by a
steep bridle-track leading through fir-woods to (2 hrs.) the good tourists'
hut at the Sandiim-Sceter, which aflfords a fine view of Lake Kr0deren.
Our route next runs to the N.W. across a lofty plateau (leaving the
Ramsaas on the right), with a view of the mountains of Teleniarken and
of the Eggedal. It then ascends to the Augunshaug (4012 ft.; extensive
view). The summit of the Hegevarde (4960 ft.; small tourist-hut), rises
5-G Kil. to the N.W., but nothing is gained by ascending it (472-5 hrs.).
From the Augunshaug we may descend direct to the K. to Tuiigen and
Ring7i(cs, a 'fast' station, 11 Kil. fn m (111 erg and 17 Kil. (pay for 25) from
Gulsvik. From the Hegevarde we may descend to the N.E. through the
valley of the Gulsvik-Elv to (7 hrs.), Gulsvik (see below).
In 2*y'2-3i/2 hrs. the steamer reaches —
Gulsvik [MO ft.; Oulsrik's Hotel, very fair), at the entrance to
to Litrdalshrei,. N^S. Maps, pp. ,5(1. 10. — 7 . R. 45
the Hallingdal, a name applied to the whole district bounded on
the N. and E. by Valders, on the S. by the Numedal, and on the
W. by the Hardanger region.
The inhabitants of the side-valleys and of the upper portion of the
main valley (p. 46) retain many of their ancient characteristics. Their
passionate disposition, which formerly found vent in the terrible girdle
duel C Bceltespander' ; cnmp. p. 342), is still manifested in various way;,
especially in the wild Hallimjdans or Springd<.ns, accompanied by a weird
kind of music CFaniiulletC).
The skyds-station is about 3y^ M. from the lake. The lower part
of the valley is rather monotonous. The road follows the right bank
of the Hallingdals-Elv and is nearly level all the way to Nfes. Near
tlie church of Flaa, 11 Kil. from Gulsvik. is the Hotel Vik (very fair).
14Kil. Aavestrud(^i!iir station). The road passes several lake-
like expansions of the Hallingdals-Elv, on the largest of which,
the Brummavand (575 ft.), upwards of 18 Kil. long, lies ■ — ■
17 Kil. Berrtnas (indifferent). At the head of the lake lies —
11 Kil. Naes or Nes (ZVcps Hotel ^' Skyds Station, D. with coffee
i^/i kr. ; Svenkerud''s Hotel, both very fairj, a large village, with a
church, the district-jail, a chemist's, and other shops. [In the
reverse direction we may descend the river from N£es to Gulsvik by
boat (3 hrs. ; 8-10 kr.). The many rapids make the trip rather sensa-
tional, but there is no danger when the river is moderately full.]
FitoM N^s TO Lake SpiRiLi.EN, 10-11 hrs. (guide unnecessary). A well
defined sa:ter-path ascends to the E. to Lake Sli-een (good fishing ; quarters at
one of the sseters), in 3-4 hrs., and by Djupedal in 3-4 hrs. more to Ildjarn-
stad (p. 51), whence Nws in the Aadal , at the head of Lake Spirillen, is
22 Kil. distant (comp. p. 51).
.Scenery pleasing, with numerous farms and fine pine-woods.
About halfway between Njes and Rolfshus we cross the river.
Farther oti (about 8 hrs" drive from Gulsvik) is —
■20 Kil. Eolfshus {^-Btry's Hotel, E. IV2, B. & S. 1 kr. each,
baths), a pleasant stopping-place.
FiiOM R01.FSHLS TO THE Valders (10-12 hrs.; guide necessary). The
path, which diverges from the road at the Hesla-Bro (see below), ascends
very steeply for 3, ^hr. and then leads across the FJeldvidde. On the way
we pa.'*s the Baxters of Brdutano and Mene. Kightiiuarters are obtainable
at the swter of iSnndiirstelnn.
The valley turns to the W. About 2 Kil. above Rolfshus the
Hallingdals-Elv is joined by the Hemsil. descending from the N.W.
The latter forms a fine waterfall. We cross the Hemsil by the Hesla-
Bro, beyond which the road through the main valley leads to the
left (see p. 47), and ascend its right bank in the Hemsedal, mount-
ing the Golsbakker in long windings, and passing halfway up within
sight of the new church of 60I, to the left (comp. p. 19). Beyond
(10 Kil.) Lesteguard (14-40 ft.) we again cross the Hemsil and
follow the E. side of the valley, passing several farms, while the
W. side and the bottom of the valley are uncultivated. About
n Kil. farther on we reach —
16 Kil. Kleven i Qol (cheap quarters). The scenery becomes
4h Route 7. l''AUSKE. From ('hrintiiinia
uiiiiiterestiiig for a considerable distance. About 4 Kll. farther on
isElcre(2G06it.).
From Ekke to the Valdeks (10-12 hrs.). A rough saeter-path ascends
from Ekre to the '■JIeiei'\ passes the Vannenvand and the Storsja at the
l>ase of the huge Skogshorn (5660 ft.) , and leads through the district of
Lykkja, with its scattered houses , to the (5 hrs.) Fuaheim-Sreter, on the
Svenskenvand (2860 ft.), and on to the station of Fosheim (p. 55).
Another route to the Valders diverges from our road at Ulsaker, be-
Iwcen Ekre .^nd Fauske, ascends past the base of the Skogsltorn (see above)
to the Helsingvand, skirts the E. bank of the Mundsendvand, and leads
to the Grunken-Oaard, where it crosses the Smaadela^ falling into the
Svenskenvand. It then leads along the Smaad^la to the N. end of the Hele-
vand and the Vasends-Swter, passes the base of the Qrindefjeld (5600 ft.),
and descends to Grinda/ieim (p. 56), about 13-14 hrs. from Ekre.
On the opposite bank of the Hemsil rises the Veslehorn , from
which descend four small waterfalls, uniting into a single cascade
during the melting of the snow. The road passes Kirkebe^ a poor
village, with the Hemsedals- Kirke , the last in the district before
that of Borgund (83 Kil.), and 7 Kil. farther on reaches —
20 Kil. Fauske (good quarters), at the union of the Grendela
and the Hemsil. Near Fauske the Hemsil forms the Rjukande Fos
('smoking fall'), to which a path leads.
Cultivation now ceases, and a few scattered sseters only are pass-
ed. The road ascends rapidly and traverses the bleak Merkedal, a
scene of stupendous mountain-solitude. This stage takes fully
3 hrs.
20 Kil. (pay in the opposite direction for 80) Bjefberg (3320 ft.;
Station, good plain quarters, frequented by reindeer-stalkers), the
last station in the Hallingdal, lies in a bleak solitude at the foot
of the Hemsedals fj eld. Farther on (7 Kil.) we pass a columu marking
the boundary between the 'Stiff' of Christiania and that of Bergen,
The road skirts the precipitous Kjelberg on the left and the Eldre-
vand on the right. To the N.E. rises the Jekulegge (6280 ft.). The
road, the highest in Norway (3800 ft.), then descends rapidly to —
15 Kil. (pay for 22 in either direction) Breistelen {Hotel, very
fair). Then a continuous descent, passing several waterfalls, to the
bridge oiBerlaug on the Valders route (p. 58; 7-8 hrs. from Fauske).
A little below the bridge is —
12 Kil. (pay for 15 ; in the opposite direction for 19) Haeg i Bor-
gund (p. 58). — From Haeg to Lcerdalseren (39 Kil.), see pp. 58-60.
The Upper Hallingdal.
The Hallingdal in the narrower sense, or main valley (Hoveddal-
ferei), ascends to the W. from Eolfshus (p. 45) to the wild and desolate
regions of the Hardanger Vidda ('hunting-ground'), across which toilsome
paths lead to the Sogncfjord and to the Hardanger Fjord. Perhaps no-
where else do we receive so overwhelming an impression of the peculiar
nature of the Norwegian fjelds as here, where the mountains seem to
lose the ordinary characteristics of mountains, the eye resting only here
and there on an isolated 'Nute' rising above the general level of the
monotonous plateau. The lakes swarm with excellent fish; snowy owls
Geo^dph Anstalt vniUj» l^il,,
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to Lindiilfercn. SliJSDJU'',. 7 . lltHite. -^ i
nest among the rocks: aud the eagle pursues liis quarry unmolested. At
places the ground is thickly strewn for a lung distance with the droppings
of the lemming f'Zewcfn', ''myo(les\ Hemmus Norcegicus'')^ a hardy little ro-
dent, tbe wonderful migratory instinct of which is still a puzzle to natural-
ists. The reindeer is .«aid to kill the lemming with a blow of its hoof
aud eat the stomach tor the sake of the vegetable contents. The air is
remarkably clear and fresh, though fogs and storms are ot frequent occur-
rence. With this district are associated some of the most famous of
Norwegian sagas, such as that of the Yilland family, and the inhabitants
retain more of their ancient characteristics than those of almost any other
part of Norway. With the exception of the higher mountain.?, however,
the ."cenery is neither picturesque nor imposing.
To THE Hakdanoer Fjord. 1st Day: Skyds from Rolfshus to Hanuner-
IjeenQhrs., walk thence to GJeilo 2'/^ hrs. 2nd Day: On foot to the Krotkja
Hut 9 hrs. 3rd Day: On foot to the FosH Eotd 10 hrs. 4th Day: To Vik
i Eidfjord, see p. 111. — To the Sognefjord (one of the finest fjeld-passes).
1st Day: Skyds from Bolfshus to Skciro 9-10 hrs. 2nd Day: Skyds to the
Strande-Fjord IV:; l"".. bcat-skyds to Siingaavdsbotten 2^fz hrs., on foot to
the Steinbergdal Hut 5'/'.: hrs. 3rd Day: On foot via i>sterbo (where the
night may be spent if needful) to the V(tshii(jdcand ^ 'hrs., boat-skyds across
the lake ^4 hr., walk to Amiand l'/4 hr. — The accommodation and provisions
on the tjeld are very scanty; nothing is obtainable but fladbr0d, cheese,
coffee, and poor home-brewed beer ('hjembrygget 0V), except in the tourist-
luits, where canned goods are kept. Even milk is hard to get. The trav-
eller should therefore provide himself with some sausages or the like.
Rolfshus, see p. 45. Beyond the Heda-Bro (p. 451 the Hallingdal
road follows the left bank of the Hallinydals-Elv to EUefstnoen and —
15 Kil. Skjerping. Near Nybgaarden is the old tlmber-huilt
Church of Torpe, first mentioned in 1310 and partly pulled down In
1880. The porch and doors arc finely carved. A new church ad-
joins it.
11 Kil. Sundre i Aal (Inn, fair, D. 1^2 kr.). The old Thingstue
(with a carved door of 17G4) and the Gretastue (also of the 18th cent.)
should be noticed.
The road leads past the handsome church of .4a/, then skirts the
Strandefjord (1480 ft.), with a view of the Sangerfjeld (3i"65 ft.) to
the S., and divides 15 Kil. from Sundre. The road to the left (S.W.)
leads to the Hardangerf jord , that to the right (N. W.) to the Sognef jord.
1. Route to the H.\ruangerijord. The road crosses the
Hallingdals-Elv, which forms a waterfall, and after passing several
farms reaches (4 Kil.) H(immer»heen^ the last skyds-station. As the
track now becomes very had, we ascend the Vstadal on foot, passing
the newUstadal church, to (11 Ki].)Gjeilo (2G75ft.; rustic quarters;
guide to the Hallingskarv 3, to Kriekjahytten 7, to the Hardanger
12-14 kr.). About 2 Kil. farther on is Ttifte (3028 ft.), the highest
gaard in the valley (quarters).
The huge Hallingskarv may be ascended from thi.s point: the IC. peak
{6440 ft.) bv folIdwinL' the cour.se of the Eiinehein to the Presteholtstel; the
W. peak ((;135 ft.), better, from the W. end of the Ustuvand. View of the
Hardanger Vidd;i (p. 46) not picturesque, but very e.xtensivc.
Beyond Tufte the route passes the Smetbak-ScEter, crosses the
Vdadals-Elv by the 'Xybro' (the key of which must be brought by
the guide), ascends the slope of the Vstetind to the BerheUetjern,
passes the deserted Moni*buheia, crosses the tongue of land between
48 R. 7 — Map, p. 46. NEUAAL. Upper
the Legreidsvand and the 0rterenvand , skirts the S. hank of the
latter, and ascends the Svaanut to the Store Krakjavand. On the
N. bank of this lake lies the Krsekjahytte (belonging to the Tourists'
Union; 4085 ft.; about 9 hrs. from Gjeilo), a favourite resort of
anglers, where the night is spent (guide, Ole Larson Aker). — The
following route (B-7 hrs.) is shorter. From Tufte we follow the
Ustadals-Elv to the Ustnvand (3315 ft.), cross it by boat to 0rter-
dalen, walk to the (1 hr.) 0rterenvand, cross this lake also, and walk
(I/2 hr.) to the hut. Both routes have the Hallingskarv constantly
in view.
On the second day (10 hrs.) we skirt the Krsekjavand, and cross
the Krcekjdstubben river, near an old pitfall for catching reindeer.
We then descend the Hulnebottner to the Olafbuvand , cross the
Kjelda to the Fisketjern-Sceter, and reach the Sinytte-So'ter, the first
in the Hardanjicr. We next cross the Leira, which descends from
theN., to the Indste-Sater, whence the route to Maurscet (2445 ft.)
and the Fosli Hotel (p. 112) is unmistakable. The imposing Har-
danger Jekul is conspicuous the whole way.
2. To AuKLAND ON THE SoGNEFjoKD. Froui Sunde to the diver-
gence of the road to Hammersbeen, see p. 47. Our route skirts
the Holsfjord (1935 ft.) to (4 Kil. from the bifurcation) —
19 Kil. Neraal or Nedreaal (fair accommodation at the Land-
handler Tollef Sundre's ; R., S., & B. 2^/2^1.'), a drive of about
6 hrs. from Kolfshus (p. 45). It lies at the W. end of the Hols-
fjord and adjoins the old timber -built Church of Hoi, which is
attended on Sundays by the peasantry in their plctures(iue old-
fashioned costumes. To the W. towers the Hallingskarv (p. 47).
— We now ascend to a higher level of the valley, passing (left) the
picturesque Djupedalsfos. Farther on we skirt the Hevelfjord
(2125 ft. 1, at the W. end of which, ca. 5 Kil. from Neraal, lies the
Guard V'dland, once the seat of the turbulent family of that name,
who lived here about the year 1700 (comp. p. 47). — The stream
flowing towards the Havelijord is the tJrunda-Eiv. The road follows
it for ca. 5 Kil., then crosses by a substantial wooden bridge to the
right bank, and ascends the wild and rocky ravine of a tributary
brook, which we cross in 25 min. more. We then skirt the Sundats-
vand (4 Kil. long), pass the Gudbrandsgaard (2550 ft.), at its W.
end, and reach —
20 Kil. (pay for 251 Skaro or Skero, with the modest inn of
Asle Engebretsen (R. 60, B. or S. 70 c, D. 1 kr.), who also pro-
vides boat-skyds for the Strandefjord and acts as a guide across the
fjeld (to the Steinbergdal Hut 6-7 kr.). — The rough road ascends
for 8 Kil. more (i'/., hr. whether on foot or on wheels) and ends at
the 0vre Strandefjord (3180 ft.), which is 14 Kil. long. lu good
weather we proceed with boat-skyds (see above; 1 pers. 2, several
pers. 1 kr. each) in 21/2 lirs. to the upper end of the lake, but in
bad weather we reach this point by following the N. bank (3 hrs.).
HalUngdal. STEINBERGDAL. Map,p.ll2. — 7.R. 49
Here, &t SvinyaardsboUen, until about the middle of August, we
can obtain fair accommodation, and probably also a lad to act aa
guide to the Steinbergdal Hut (4 kr.).
A footpath, which diverges to the left from the route described below,
beyond the Ulevasbotten and the three smaller lakes, aacf nda the valley of
the Vesle^jln and then descends the iloldaadcd to (6-7 hrs.) the cattie-farm of
JJalliiiyskeiet, where we reach the new load to Valnahnlsen (see p. 13'j).
The actual mountain-pass begins here, at first in the form of a
sffiter-track which ascends past the L'levasbctten or L'revasbotten
and three smaller lakes. After about 1 hr. we reach the first (con-
spicuous from a distance) of the 'Varder", or heaps of stones, which
mark the route across the fjeld. For about 1/2 ^r. we pass under
the abrupt rocky wall of the Vlevasnuten (6930 It.), and then turn
sharply to the right to the 'skard', or gap, between the Ulevasnuten
and the SundheUerfjeld. Beyond the watershed we pass some smiU
lakes and cross several brooks and patches of snow. At the point
where the valley tnrns to the W. we ascend to the right to the
Bolhevdskard (3'/2 hrs. from Svingaardsbotten). We now descend
gradually into the wide upper part of the Steinbergdal, cross a
copious stream, where the path again becomes distinct, and reach
the Steinbergdal Hut of the Tourist Union (2955 ft.; nightquarters
for members of the Union 50 0., for others l'/4 kr.), I1/2 hr. from
Bolhevde. Guide from this point to the Vasbygvand about 8 kr.
The *Steinbergdal, which our path now descends on the right
bank of the stream, is a grand valley descending in steps, with
sombre basins, small lakes, a few green pastures, and deep rocky
ravines, in which the Steinbergdela forms several picturesque falls.
In l-i'/4 hr. wo reach the Idle- Sieter. About 72^^. farther on.
at the W. end of a small lake, the path turns into a side-valley
and ascends abruptly for V4 'i''- Below the small Noset-Sater it
crosses a narrow foot-bridge over a rapid brook which empties
itself by a line fall into the main stream. At the Grenestel-Sceter
we rejoin the main valley, which we continue to follow, at first
at a considerable height above the stream, and then descending
in winding.*;, to (1 hr.) ^.vteria (good quarters, R., S., & B. 21/2 kr.),
the first gaard in the district of Sogn, 31/2 hrs. from the tourist-
hut. — After a short ascent our route descends the steep and
once formidable Nccfbegulder , partly by a long ladder, and partly
by a wooden path attached to the clilf, above a small lake, to the
1^/4 l»r.) gaard of loathe. The path now cuts off the bend of the
valley and crosses a ridge on which lies the Hclmcn-Sceter. In
20 min. more we descend the steep and somewhat trying Bjernestig,
finally reaching the bottom of the ravine in windings. We then
ascend again to the gaard of Senjareim or Sennerheim (rfmts.),
3<*/4 hrs. from Osterbe, in a superb situation, recalling that of Stal-
heim (p. 128). Thence the path leads down the Senj are imsy alder,
■which are protected by an iron railing. After l'/4hr. the valley
expands. In 1/4 hr. more, after passing the gaards of 0ie and Slene
Baedkkkr's Norway and .'iweilen. 8th Edit. 4
50 Route 8. LAKE SPIRILLEN. From Christiania
(where a boatman must be procured), -we reach the sombre *Vas-
bygdvand, which is surrounded by abrupt rocky walls. We now
row across the lake to (40 min. ; l'/2 kr.) its W. end, whence a good
road leads in II/4 hr. to Aurland (p. 139).
8. From Christiania through the Valders to Laer-
dalseren on the Sognefjord.
The most frequented route between Christiania and the \V.
coast leads through the Valders. This district embraces the valley
of the Bceffna, which flows into Lake Spirillen, and also the lateral
valleys pertaining to it. Instead of the Spirillen we may take the
Randsfjord, where the main road begins, as our starting-point.
Four days should be alloNved for reaching Laerdalseren. The trav-
eller should arrive in good time at the place where he is to spend
the night, otherwise he may have to put up with very inferior
quarters.
a. Via, Lake Spirillen to Frydenlund,
238 Kil. (to Lffirdals/Sren, 406 Kil.). Eailwat from Christiania to Heen,
131 Kil., express in 4'/2 brs. (fares (5 kr. 80, 4 Ivr. 40 0.), ordinary train
in 6 lirs. (fares 6 kr. 30 0.. 4 kr.). — Steamboat from Heen to Serum,
56 Kil., twice daily in 5-5V2 lirs. (fares 3 kr.); when the river is low,
Ihe boat starts from Bergsund, to which passengers are conveyed by car-
riage. Through-tickets to Sjiirum are to be had at Christiania. — Eoad
from Sttrum to Frydenlund, 51 Kil. Fast stations. The Drivers' Union
(Kjereselskabet) lets carriages from S0rum to Lardal for 85, 100, or 115 kr.
for 2, 3, or 4 persons, but recommends previous ordering by telephone
to S0rum's Hotel. If the drive (im account of low water, see p. 51) be
begun at Granum, 5, 6, or 7 kr. is added to the above fares; and 6, 8,
or 10 kr. is charged for the detour to Lake Tyin (p. 161). Fares are usu-
ally reduced in the slack season.
From Christiania to Heen, see R. 3. — The steamer (D. on
board 2 kr.) ascends the Bagna or Aadals-Elv, with its lake-like
expansions. The navigable channel is indicated by buoys and
stakes. To the left are the large farm of Semm en and (farther on)
Skollerud, to the right the church of Ytre Aadalen. The banks
are hilly and covered with pines. Higher up, the stream becomes
very rapid. To the left farther on, 15 Kil. from Heen, lies the
gaard of Bergsund, where the steamer starts when the water is low
(see above).
The mountains become higher and more varied in form. The
course of the vessel is often obstructed by floating timber ('Tem-
mer'). About 2hrs. after leaving Heen the steamer reaches the rapid
Kongstrem^ which intersects an old moraine, and soon enters —
*Lake SpirUlen (495 ft.; probably from spira, 'to flow rapidly'},
24 Kil. long and 355 ft. deep, a beautiful sheet of water, surpassing
the Randsfjord. The banks are enlivened by numerous gaards, with
tlieir green pastures and scanty tilled fields, while over these rise
> rf ';.^-
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to Lcerdalseren. FJELDHEIM. 8. Route. 51
pine-clad mountains. To the left is tlie Hegfjtld (3240 ft.). The
chief place on the W. bank is Viker or Aadalen, with a church,
8 Kil. to the W. of vrhich rises the Oyranfisen (3540 ft.). On the E.
bank lies the gaard of Engerodden. Passing the Ramberg (1680 ft. ;
left), the steamer comes in sight of the church of —
Nas, or Nasmoen, at the head of the lake, with its wild moun-
tain-background. The Baegna enters the lake here, and its mouth is
crossed by a long ■wooden bridge, beneath which the steamer passes.
To the right, just beyond the bridge, about 4 hrs. from Heen, is
the station of Granum (Granum's Hotel, R. 1, S. 1 kr.), where the
steamer has to stop if the water is low (skyds to Serum, 11 Kil.).
To the N.W. of Nses, in the J0vre lledal, lies (22 Kil.) Ildjamstad, with
an interesting timber-built church (conip. p. 29), dating from about 1200.
According to tradition the whole population of this valley died of the plague
in 1349-50. When the church was afterwards discovered by a hunter, he
found a bear installed by the altar, in proof of which a bear's skin is still
shown. Similar traditions exist elsewhere in Norway and Denmark.
The Bc-egna is at first pretty broad; the navigable channel is
marked by stakes and buoys. To the right and left are wooded hills.
On the left is the Bjembratbjerg, on the right the precipitous Val-
dershorn, of which we obtain an imposing retrospect farther on.
The steamer passes the rapids of Valdersstwmmen, enters smooth
water, and reaches (IV4 hr. from Granum, 5 hrs. from Heen) —
S«ruin (Serum's Hotel, fair, UAyi-l, B. II/4, D. 2, S. IV4 kr.),
ri6 Kil. from Heen, is the terminus of the steamboat, water per-
mitting.
The Road up the valley from Serum is somewhat monotonous.
To the right, beyond the river, lies the gaard of Hougsrud, one of
the largest in Valders (praised by Norwegians as summer-quarters).
Farther on, to the left, is the ancient but modernized church of
the Nedre Hedal at ToUeifgriid, where a road to the 0vre Hedal
diverges to the left (see aljove). We now reach Dokken i Sendre
AurdcU. To the left rises the huge rocky Morkollen, the base of
wiiich is skirted by the road. From the left, farther on, descends
the Mitggedals-Elv. Scenery picturesque, the mountains showing
great diversity of form.
ly Kil. QarOiua (fair quarters). To the left rises the Tron-
hus/'jeld, on tlic right the Fonhusfjeld. Beyond the gaard of Stors-
veen we cross the Heleraa, which descends to tlio Baegna in a series
of pretty falls. A little farther on is the gaard of Olmhus. We then
skirt the Svnrtuikfjetd. To the right opens the basin otBang i Sendre
Aurdul, with its numerous farms, its church, and its parsonage, all
on the left bank of the river. Just before reaching Fjeldheim the
Baegna forms the beautiful Slorehrufos, which the road crosses.
17 Kil. Fjeldheim (/?ni, a large new building, fair, R. l'/.2,
1). 2 kr.) lies on the left bank of the Baegna. — The road now forks,
the right brancli leading via (5 Kil.) Breidablik to (14 Kil.) Sveen,
the left to Frydenlund.
4=i.
52 R. 8.— Map, p. 50. GREFSEN. From Christiania
The Sanatorium Breidablik lies amid pine-woods, about 2000 ft. above
the sea, and commands splendid views. Its six buildings contain m<ire than
100 rooms (pens. 112-151 kr. per month, baths extra). Enquiries should
be addressed to the 'Breidablik Fjeld-og-Skovsanatnrium, Valders'. —
Carr. and pair from (34 Kil.) Dokka (p. 53) to Breidablik in 5-6 hrs. (also
diligence).
The road to Frydenlutid ascends on the E. side of the ravine of
the Baegna. On the W. side of the valley rises the pointed Helde-
knatten, at the base of which is tlie old timber-built church of
Reinlid (13th cent.), the road to which (1 hr.) diverges to the left
before the Bsegna is crossed. Our road is hewn out of the rock al-
most the whole way. Near the gaard of Jukam, to the right, are
the remains of a huge 'giant's cauldron' (p. 294). Good views to
the left of the deep gorge of the Bsegna. After a drive of about
IV4 hr. from Fjeldheim we reai'h the highest point. The road
rounds a projecting rock and discloses a magnificent view of the
snow-mountains of Jotunheim, especially of the Kalvaahegda and
the Thorlinstinder. The road then runs up and down, partly through
wood, and unites with the Valders route about II/2 M. short of
Frydenlund. Travellers coming from Frydenlund are shown the
direction 'til Bang' by a sign-post at the crossing.
16 Kil. Frydenlund (p. 54).
b. To Oduses and Dokka vi& the Randsfjord or by the Northern
and Valders Railway.
The N. end of the Randsfjord, where the Valders route begins,
was hitherto accessible from Christiania only by a long detour,
taking a whole day, either viii Drammen and Henefos (R. 3), or via
Eidwold and Gjevik (R. 9a). The journey, however, has been con-
siderably curtailed by the new Valders Railway, which was opened
as far as Dokka in 1902, and, it is expected, will extend to Ton-
saasen by the autumn of 1903 and to Fagernajs in 1904.
From Christiakia to Dokka, 148 Kil. State railway (Nordbane, con-
necting Christiania with Gjffvik) to Eina, and private railway ( Valders-
bane) thence to Dokka in about 5 hrs. Those who wish to explore the
Randsfjord may go by train to Raikenvik (2'/2 hrs. from Grefsen) and take
the .steamboat there (p. 26: to Odnses 3',2-4i/2 hri). The Hue from the
0st Banegaard (p. 10) to Grefsen will be opened in the autumn of 10O3
(electric tramwav to Grefsen, see p. 10). Fares from Grefsen to Dokka
7kr. 10 0., 4kr. 60 0.
Beyond the suburb of Vaalerengen the Nordbane diverges from
the Ostbane and ascends in windings. To the left is the suburb
of Kampen with a large reservoir of the Christiania water-works.
Station Teien.
6 Kil. Grefsen (356 ft.), the junction for the branch-railway
from Alna (p. 60) and also connected with Christiania by the electric
tramway mentioned at p. 10. To the right, at the foot of the
Grefsenaasen (1195 ft.), lies the Grefsen Sanatorium.
10 Kil. Kjelsaas (508 ft.), near the point where the Akers-Elv
issues from the Maridalsvand, along the E. bank of which the train
to Lffrdalseren. DOKKA. Map, p. 50. — S. Route. 58
ruus, threading several tunnels. "We then ascend rapidly through
wood to Nitedal (770 ft.) and again descend. 32 Kil. Hakedal
(543 ft), with a church and disused iron-works. The train asi-eads
the valley of the Hakedals-Elv, skirts the E. bank of the Harestu-
vand, and ascends rapidly through a tunnel to Grua (1214 ft.). It
then descends via (61 Kil.) Limner (918 ft.) and (67 Kil.) Gran
(672 ft.) to —
72 Kil. Jaren (680 ft.), whence a branch-line runs via Brandba
to Edikenvih on the Randsfjord (7 Kil. ; see p. 261.
The main line once more ascends (steepest gradient 1 : 50) along
the wood-clad Brandbukamp (1656 ft.) to Bleiken (1165 ft.), where
we obtain a *View to the left of the middle portion of the Rands-
fjord (p. 26). Farther on, passing through wood and past some
small lakes, it reaches its highest point (1G17 ft.). At the station
o( Ilaai/aar (1404 ft.) we reach the pretty Einavand, the W. bank
of which we skirt.
101 Kil. Eina (1315 ft.), at the N. end of the lake, where the
train crosses its outflow, the Hunds-Elv , is the junction of the
Valders Railway I see below) and of the railway to Gj0vik. The
latter follows the valley of the Hunds-Elv, passing (107 Kil.) Reins-
voU (1167 ft.; branch-line to Skreia i Toten on Lake Mjesen),
Raufoss (1060 ft ; with a government cartridge-factory), BreiskaU,
and Nyi/ard. For (124 Kil.) Gjevik (423 ft.), on Lake Mjesen,
see p. 62.
The Valubes Railway descends to the W. from Eina, passing
the stations of Vasli and Skrukkalien, to the Randsfjord, the E. bank
of which it skirts (flue view), passing the stations of Fa M, Hov,
Bjernerud, and Fluh rg.
140 Kil. (39 from Eina) Odnaes (550ft. ; '^'Odnas Hotel; Vaarnces
Hotel, both about 1/2 ^i- from the pier of the Randsfjord steamers,
see p. 26; carriages in waiting).
The railway still :^kirts the Randsfjord for a short distance, then
ascends the valley of its affluent, the Etna-Eli\ and ends for the
time being (comp. p. 52) at —
148 Kil. (47 from Eina) Dokka, on a tributary of the Etna-Elv.
There is no hotel at Dokka, but carriages meet all the trains.
c. Koad from Odnses and Dokka to Lserdals^ren.
KoAD from Odnsea to LcerdaUeiven, 216 Kil. (from Dokka 208 Kil.), with
fast stations. For the whole distance a cariole costs about 40, a stolk-
jffirre for 2 pers. about 67V2 kr. The covered carriages (with two horses)
(iftered by the Drivers' Union (KjareseUkabet) arc more comfortable. The
faro from Odnses to Lrcrdal for 2 pors. is 85 kr., 8 pors. 100 kr., 4 pers.
115 kr. ; detour to Lake Tyin G, 8, or 10 kr. extra ; heavy baggage according
to bargain; fee 4-() kr. The .journey takes 3 4 days. In the height of the
season it in advisable to order carriages beforehand. A distinct bargain
should be made, both as to the fares and as to the hours of starting, halts
for dining, etc.
As almost all the stations are good, the traveller may divide his journey
in any way he pleases. Travellers reaching Dokka at noon by railway
54 R. 8.— Map, p. 50. FRYDENLUNI). From ChriHiania
can go on the aame afternoon to Frydenlund, and spend the next two
nights at Qrindaheim and Maristuei. Those sleeping at Odnces proceed the
next day to Fagernccs, on the third day to Nysluen, and on the fourth to
Lardalsoren. — Beautiful scenery almost all the way, particularly between
Frydenlund and Blaaflafen (143 Kil. or SO'/a W.), which will even reward
the pedestrian. The detour (one day) to Lake Tyin, with the excursion to
the Skinego (p. 161), is highly recommended.
The road beginning at the pier of the Randsfjord steamers at
Odnffis (p. 53) joins the highroad through the Valders, follows the
N. hank of the Randsfjord for about 21/2 M., and then ascends the
valley of the Etna-Elv. Farther on it crosses the Dokka, an affluent
of the Etna-Elv. Thriving farms and beautiful birches, but scenery
rather tame.
17 Kil. Tomlevolden {Tomlevold Hotel, with large old wooden
buildings, very fair; landlord speaks English}, in the district of
Nordre Land. — About 7 Kil. from Tomlevolden the road crosses
the Etna-Elv by the Heljerast-Bro, which aifords a fine view of the
Etna valley, and begins to ascend the wooded Tonsaas, with a level
plateau on the summit, which separates the valleys of the Etna
and the Bsgna (p. 51). A little beyond the bridge we cross the
boundary between Hadeland and Vulders. About halfway between
Tomlevolden and Sveen is a modest inn, Plads Trondhjem.
17 Kil. (pay for 18) Sveen (fair station) is beautifully situated
on the N.E. side of the Tonsaas. The road ascends through fine
forest-scenery, affording picturesque views of wooded ravines, to
(3 Kil.) *Tonsaasen's Sanatorium, a hydropathic and hotel (1980 ft.;
pension 115-170 kr. per month; post and telegraph station, with
telephone), a favourite summer-resort, with beautiful walks. A
road to Breidablik and Fjeldheim (p. 51) diverges here to the left.
We soon reach the wooded summit of the Tonsaas, 5-6 Kil. from
the Sanatorium. A few hundred paces to the left of the road are
some benches (2300 ft. above the sea), commanding a *View of the
beautiful and partially wooded valley of Valders, with the Strande-
fjord running through it, and the snow-capped Jotunheim Mts.,
Galdebergstind, andThorflnstinder in the background (p. 161). The
road now gradually descends and soon reaches the Bcegnadal, where
it joins the Spirillen road (p. 50).
18 Kil. (pay for 23) Frydenlund (*Hotel Frydenlund, English
spoken, R. li/^A B. l^/o, D. 2, S. iy2^i'-), a large village beauti-
fully situated to the left, on the slope below the road. On the road
are the skyds-station of Petersiorg inn), the Apothecary's Store,
and (a little farther on) the church of Nordre Aurdal.
Abont 6 Kil. to the W. of Frydenlund, on the S. bank of the Amdals-
fjord, into which the Aabjoraa descends in a considerable fall, lies the
Pension Hove (70 kr. per month). Thence a path leads past the Olsjei, via
Sinderlien and Sanderstelen, a sEEter-inn (4V2-5hrs. from Hove), to (10-11 bra.)
Rolfshiis, in the Hallingdal (p. 45).
The road, now nearly level, runs high above the Baegna, partly
through wood, and partly through cultivated land, and soon reaches
the Aurdalsfjord, with its numerous islands, from which the Baegna
t„ Lanhtlserni. FOSHKIM. Map, p. -16. —8. li. 55
issues. Fine view near Onstad. The road passes the Pension Nord-
(tnker and the District Prison. On the other side of the broad valley
is the Aabergshygd, watered by the Aabergs-Eiv, which forms the
Kvannefos. To the right, farther on, is a fine waterfall, called
Fosbraaten, and to the left is heard the roar of the Faslefos, a fall
of the Baegna. We now reach the beautiful Strandefjord (1170 ft.},
a narrow lake 12 M. long, through which the Bsegna also flows.
13 Kil. Fagernses i Nordre Aurdal (Hotel Fagerncss, with tel-
ephone, R. l'/2, ^- or S. ll/4kr. ; Hotel Fdgerlttnd, similar charges,
both well spoken of) lies amid Avoods on the N. bank of the lake,
at the influx of the Nces-Elo. This is a charming spot for some
stay, and the names ('fair promontory' and 'fair grove' respectively)
are appropriate. It is much frequented in summer by Norwegians
and by English anglers. The road through the 0stre Slidre to Lake
Bygdin (p. 1G4) diverges to the right at the Hotel Fagerlund.
About 5 min. on this side of the cross-roads is a steep path ascend-
ing to the right to a pavilion commanding a fine view of the lake.
The Lasrdal road crosses the Nces-Elu, with its pretty cascades,
and follows the bank of the Strandefjord, passing the churches of
Strand or Svenn(fs and (about 10 Kil. from Fagernses) Vlnas. Near
Ulnss a long bridge crosses to the opposite bank of the Strandefjord,
where the farm of Stende lies. To the W. rise the snow-mountains
on the Vangsmjesen and several of the Jotunheim peaks.
The upper part of the Strandefjord is called the Graneimfjord.
The road gradually ascends to —
15 Kil. Foslieim (Hotel, with baths). The lake narrows to a
river, the Baegna. The bridge, reached in 6 min. by the road leading
to the left from the hotel, is crossed by the routes to the Aolfjeld
(ascended in 4-5 hrs. ; horse 4 kr.) and to the Fosheim-Sater (2865 ft. ;
li/2-'2 lirs. from Fosheim, conip. p. 4l)), a dependance of the Fos-
lieim Hotel, at the S. end of the Svenskenvand, generally full of
English and other anglers.
Beyond the church of Reen, which lies above the road to the
right and is not visible from it, the river expands into the Slidre-
fjord (1200 ft.), whose N.E. bank the road skirts. About 9 Kil.
from Fosheim we reach the beautifully situated stone church of
Vestre Slidre (1255 ft. ), which commands a line view of the lake.
A narrow road diverging here to the right crosses the Slidreaas to
llogne in 0»tre Slidre (p. 1(13). Farther on, to the left, is Einangs
Hotel, at Volden. Beyond the house of the 'Distriktslffige', or physi-
cian of the district, which stands on the road (right), a gate and
private road to the right lead in 5 min. to the height crowned by
the comfortable Hotel 0lken (1400 ft. ; 31/2-4 kr. per day), a favourite
summer and health resort, generally crowded in the season. The
Vinsnms Hotel, just beyond kilometre-stone 90, is also apt to be
over-lilled. Farther on is the church of Lomen, known to have
existed in 1325 but almost wholly modernized.
56 R.8.~Map,p.]46. GRINDAHEIM. From Chmtiania
14 Kil. L^ken (*L0ken Hotel, landlord speaks English, R. I1/2,
B. 11/4, D. 2 kr.) is finely situated on the Slidrefjord and commands
a good view of the lake, with its numerous islands, and of the snow-
clad mountains to the W. of it.
The "Hvidhafd (white head'; 3360ft.), a peak of the Slidi-eaas, may
be ascended froin Yestre Slidre or L0ken in 2-'2i/2 hi's. At the top is IJei-
fjeWs Hotel. The view embraces the valleys of Vestre and JB'stre Slidre,
"the Bitihorn, and the snow-mountains to the N. of Lake Bygdin and the
Vinstervand. A few hundred paces farther on rises the "Kvalehegda, where
an admirable survey of the whole of the Bygdin range, the Vangsmj0sen,
and the Hallingdal mountains to the S. is enjoyed.
The road now runs mostly through wood, on the left bank of
the Bsegna, which ahout 6 Kil. heyond Leken forms a fine fall called
the Lofos. We then cross the Vesica and approach the brawling
Bffigna more closely. A road to the right leads to the church of
Hurum, mentioned in a document of 1327. Our road crosses the
Bsegna and passes the Van(jsnces Hotel (right). Later we cross the
Ala-Elv, descending from the mountains to the left.
15 Kil. 0ilo (1475 ft. ; ^Yang's Hotel; 0Uo Hotel), situated at
the foot of the Hugakollen, 150 paces to the left of the road. Those
who make a stop here may visit the Sputrefos, via the gaards of Rogn
and Dahl (there and back 2t/2 hrs.).
The road here reaches the "'Vangsmjesen (1530 ft.), a splendid
mountain-lake, 19 Kil. long, and follows its S. bank. It is largely
hewn in the rock, especially beyond the promontory and along the
steep face of the Kvamsklev. In spring and autumn the road is
sometimes endangered by falling rocks. At the worst point it is
protected by a roof. Farther on a grand survey of the lake is dis-
closed. On the right rises the Vednisfjeld, on the left the Grinde-
fjeld (see below), and opposite us the Skjoldfjeld. To the N. is
the Dresjafos. A little farther on, to the right of the road, is the
Church of Vang, which replaces the old Stavekirke ('timber church'),
removed to the Giant Mts. in Silesia in 1844. A stone in front of
the church bears the Runic inscription: '■Kosasunir ristu stin thissi
aftir Kunar bruthur sun'' ('the sons of Gosa erected this stone to
the memory of Gunar, their brother's son').
10 Kil. Grindaheim {Hotel Fayerlid, Vang Hotel, both very
fair, English spoken) is beautifully situated on the Vangsmjasen,
just beyond the church. To the S. rises the huge Grindefjeld
(6620 ft. ; ascent in about 6 hrs., there and back).
From Grindaheim to the Hccllingdal, see p. 46.
The road continues to skirt the lake. Opposite rises the impos-
ing N. bank of the lake, on which tower the conspicuous Skods-
horn (5310 ft.), of which a phenomenon similar to that seen on
the Lysefjord (p. 93^ is recorded, and the Skyrifjeld (5115 ft.).
About 12 Kil. from Grindaheim, near the W. end of the lake, into
which the Baegna plunges in a lofty fall, lies the church of 0ye.
The road crosses the stream and ascends to the small Strandefjord
(1675 ft.). The ascent becomes steeper and the scenery wilder. A
to Lcerdaheren.
NYSTUEN. Map, p. 146.— 8. R.
57
few farms are now seen on tlie
sunny (N.) side of the valley
only. The rough old road follows
the S. side of tlie valley. The
new road crosses the Bsegna and
reaches —
17 Kil. Skogstad(188b ft. ; Inn,
very fair, English spoken).
The new road passes the farms
of Opdal, at the entrance to the
//orndai, which ascends hence to the
Horntind (4775 ft."). After 3 Kil
it recrosses to the right hank of the
Baegna, which forms several falls
A high hut not voluminous fall also
descends from the Raubergskampen
(4130 ft.), to the light.
Beyond kilometre-stone 140 the
road once more crosses the Bjegna,
and then, at a cottage, forks, the
right hranch leading to Lake Tyin
(p. 161), and the left to Lccrdal. To
the right, as we follow the latter
is the Stelsnesi. To the left lies the
small Utrovand, above the S. foot-
hills of which rises the summit of
the Borrenesi (4140 ft.). To the
right is the Stugunese.
11 Kil. (pay for 17) Nystuen
(3250 ft. ; *Knut Nystuen's Hotel,
R. IV2-2, B. or S. 11/4, D. 2kr.;
English spoken), originally a Fjeld-
stue, or hospice, built by govern-
ment, situated on the barren Fille-
fjeld, at the S. base of the steep
Stugunese (4826 ft.) and above the
N. bank of the Utrovand.
The Ascent of the "Stugon^se
(4S25 ft.) takes about 2 hrs. from Ny-
stuen (4 hr><. there and back) and should
be made by those who renounce the
Skinegg. The general direction can
hardly be mistaken, but the construc-
tion of a proper path is much to be
desired. We bend to the right from
the road, about 5 min. to the W. of the
hotel, and farther on (no path) ascend
along the E. side of the brook. At the
top we turn to the right. The summit
commands a splendid survey of the
58 Ji. 8. — Map, p. 146. BORGUND. From Christinnm
Jotunheim range, of which the annexed sketch, after E. Mohn's Panorama
published by Beyer of Bergen (2V2 kr.), will convey an idea. Farther to
the left, above the lower hills, several peaks of the Horunger are also
visible, particularly the Austaboltind with ila glacier. Farther to the right,
beyond the Skinegg, are seen the snow- mountains to the K. of Lakes
Gjende and Bygdin, the latter finely grouped, from the Sletmarkpig to the
Thorfinstinder and the Kalvaahizrgda.
An interesting but fatiguing excursion of 6-8 hrs. may be made to the
fjeld to the S. of Ny.stuen to see the reindeer, which are brought here
by the Lapps in summer for pasture to the number of about '20iJ0. We
row across the Utrovand and follow a rough path to (1^/4 hr.) the -Gamme'
or Lapp hut. We tben make our way, with guide, to the ravine on the
N.E. side of the Suletind, and through this till we come in sight of the
other side of the valley. Hundreds of reindeer may be seen on the snow-
fields here about midday ; they are half-wild and take flight on any at-
tempt to approach them. Comp. p. 254. [At times the herd is much
iie:irer the road; enquiry may be made at Nystuen or Maristuen.] — On
the way back we enjoy a fine view of the .Jotunheim, similar to that
from the Stugun0se.
Beyond Nystuen the road reaches its highest point (3294 ft.),
on the watershed between E. and W. Norway. About 2 Kil. from
Nystuen, on this side of the Kirkestel-Sater, the old road diverges
to the left, skirting the imposing Suletind (5805 ft.), and rejoins
the new road near Maristuen (2-272 hrs., but hardly advisable on
account of the marshy ground). Beyond kilometre-stone 150 the
new road passes a column which marks the boundary between the
Stifts of Hamar and Bergen. The road then skirts the FiUefjeldvand
or Upper Smeddalsvand and the Lower Smeddalsvand (3085 ft.),
■with the Sadel-Fjeld rising opposite, ascends rapidly to the Bruse-
Sater ( 3240 ft.), and descends thence, high above the foaming Lara.
17 Kil. (pay for 22 in the reverse direction) Maristuen (2635 ft, ;
*Knut Maristuens Hotel, sometimes crowded, R. l*/2-2, B. 11/27
8. 172 l^r.), the second 'Fjeldstue' on the Fillefjeld, originally
founded as an ecclesiastical hospice in 1300.
Below Maristuen the more luxuriant vegetation (birches, aspens)
testifies to the milder climate of tlie W. slope. The road crosses the
stream issuing from the Oddedal and passes kilometre-stone 50
(counted from Laerdalseren). It then descends very rapidly and
crosses to the right bank of the Laera by the Haanung-Bro. At Ber-
Inug, about 4 Kil. above Hsg, the Hallingdal route, crossing the
river by a bridge, joins our route on the left (p. 46).
13 Kil. (pay for I'T) Hseg (1480 ft.; Hotel, well spoken of).
Beyond the farm of Kvamme the road again bends to the S.W.
and is nearly level , traversing the former bed of a lake, the S.
enclosure of which was the Vindhelle (p. 59). Numerous gaards.
About 9 Kil. from Hicg and 4 Kil. from Husum the road reaches
Kirkevold's Hotel Boryund (very fair, D. 1 kr. 80 0.) and the small,
age-blackened —
*Church of Borgund (key at the inn ; 1-2 pers. 40, each pers.
more 20 e.), the best-preserved '■Stavekirke' in Norway, perhaps
dating from 1150 or earlier, though first mentioned in a document of
1360. It has been carefully restored by the Norwegian Society of
to Lttrdiih-eren. HUSUM. Map, p. 146.~8. R. 59
Antiquaries, vcliose property it is, and shows the original character
of this kind of church with great accuracy. The ornamentation,
especially on the lofty portals, belongs to the best of its kind. The
interior consists of a nave and aisles, with twelve columns, adjoined
by an aisleless choir with a semicircular apse (this last, perhaps, not
a part of the original church). When the doors are shut, the interior
is in almost total darkness, light being admitted only by tiny
openings in the walls. The use of window-glass was unknown in
Norway at the time of its construction, and the service probably
consisted solely of the mass, chanted in the candle-lighted choir,
while the congregation knelt devoutly in the dark nave. No 'Stave-
kirker' were built after the Reformatio7i. On the W. portal are the
Runic inscriptions : — ^Thorir ralst runar thissar than Olau missn''
(Thorer wrote these lines on St. Olaf's fair), and '■Thittai kirkia a
kkkiuvelli (This church in the church-ground). The form of these
runes affords a clue to the probable date of the building. — The
Belfry ('Stjepel'), standing between the old church and the large new
one erected on the same model, is old but was restored about 1660.
A few hundred yards beyond the two churches the road enters
the picturesque ravine of the Svartegjel, which the Lsra has formed
in forcing its passage through the huge rocky barrier of the Vind-
helle. The grandest point is the Svartegjelfos, close to the entrance.
Farther on, to the left, at the mouth of the Dylma, lies Nesdalen.
Tlie gorge then again contracts to the Grimseigjel.
After seeing llie waterfall in the Svartegjel, walkers may return to
the. Hotel Borguiid and ascend behind it, between the houses and the
l)arns, to the Old Koad, recognisable by the telegraph-poles. By ascending
this to the left, we olitain a good view of the churches from above.
I5ey<ind the viilgc the road descends in rapid zigzags, atlbrding views of the
Lrcrdal. From the Hotel Borgund to Husum by this route is a walk of V2 br.
13 Kil. Husum (1070 ft,; Hold, very fair, D. 2 kr., landlord
speaks English). The L;era here forms the small cascade of Hol-
gruien.
The road soon enters another grand ravine, crossing the bois-
terous river by the Nedre Kvamme-Bro and skirting the overhanging
rocks close to its left bank. To the N. of the gorge, at the base of
the precipice along which the old road ran, is the gaard of Galderne.
The water-worn rocks show distinctly how much higher the bed
of the river must once have been. At one point the old bed of the
t^tream has been utilised for the passage of the road, for which part
of a 'giant's cauldron" (p. 294) has been hewn away. Farther on, to
the right, is the picturesque Store Soknefos.
As soon as the ravine expands, we come in sight of Gaard
Sifltun, situated on a huge mass of debris ('■skred'). The road
crosses the river and follows its right bank. It then intersects
the deposits of the Jutul-Elv (fall to the right) and traverses
a broader part of the valley, from which the Opdul, closed by the
snow-clad Aaken or Okken (5685 ft.), diverges to the S.E.
60 Route 9. EIDSyOLD. From Christiania
15 Kil. Blaaflaten (hotel) lies a little to the left of the road.
Behind is the small Befos. The valley is still enclosed by lofty
mountains, on which the ancient coast-terraces are noticeable
(comp. p. xxxi v), rising in steps and forming straight horizontal lines.
The road crosses the river by the Volds-Bro and passes the church
of Tenjum. By the farms of jEri, where the valley suddenly trends
towards the N., we have a particularly good view of the above
mentioned terraces. Looking back, we obtain another view of the
Aaken, with its peculiar crest. Lastly the valley turns towards the
W. On the right, near 0ie, is the fine Stenjumsfos, which descends
in two falls from the Veta-Aas and Hegnn-Aas.
11 Kil. Lserdalseren, see p. 141.
9. From Christiania through the Gudbrandsdal to Stryn
on the Nordfjord, Marok on the Geiranger Fjord,
or Aandalsnses on the Romsdals Fjord.
The distance from Christiania to Visnas (Stryn), on the Nord-
fjord, is 487 Kil.; to Marok, on the Geiranger Fjord, 46o Kil.; to
Aandalsnas, on the Romsdals Fjord, 459 Kil. Each of the three
routes takes 3-4 days, and in each the last day's journey is the finest.
a. Railway from Christiania vi9, Hamar to Otta in the
Gudbrandsdal.
297 Kil. Express (lo Lillehammer, Ihence ordinary train) in 8^4 his.
(fares 25 kr. 20, 17 kr. 80, 11 kr. 90 0.) ; ordinary train in l^Vz hrs- (tares
14 kr. 80, 8 kr. 70 0.).
Christiania, see p. 9. As the train leaves the station, we
obtain a fine view of Christiania and the fjord to the left, and of
the Egeberg and the suburb of Oslo to the right. 4 Kil. Bryii
(260 ft.). — 7 Kil. Alna is the junction of a branch-line to Grefsen
(p. 52). — 11 Kil. Grorud (420 ft.); 18 Kil. Stremmen (485 ft.).
The train crosses the Nit-Elv, the N.W. feeder of the 0ieren.
21 Kil. LiUestreinmen (355 ft.; Rail. Restaurant), the junction
for Kongsvinger and Stockholm (see p. 78). The railway from this
point to Eidsvold, constructed in 1851, is the oldest in Norway.
Scenery unattractive ; but at Frogner (405 ft.) and Kleften (545 ft.)
we get a glimpse of blue mountains to the W. Beyond Jessum we
traverse a gravelly region, scantily wooded. At Dal, with its pretty
villas, the scenery improves. Two tunnels.
68 Kil. Eidsvold (410 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant; *Jernbane Hotel,
at the station), on the right bank of the broad and clear Vormen,
the discharge of Lake Mjesen, which at Aandalsnses (p. 78) unites
with the Glommen. Near the station is the Eidsvoldbad. By the
church is a ^Bautaslen in memory of Henrik Vergeland (d. 1845),
the poet, and the discoverer of the spring. In the former farm-
to Otta. HAMAR. 9. Route. 61
house of Eidsvoldsvark, about 5 Kil. to the S.W., the Norwegian
constitution ('Norges Riges Grundlov' ; comp. p. Ixxvii) was adopted
in 1814. The building has been purchased by government and
embellished with portraits of members of the first diet.
Beyond Eidsvold the railway follows the right (W.) bank of the
Vormen and beyond (75 Kil.) Minne, near the Minnesundj it crosses
the river by an iron bridge, 65 ft. high and 1180 ft. long. It then
reaches Lake Mjesen, the E. bank of \\hich it skirts.
Lake Mjesen (397 ft.), the largest lake in Norway, which
has been called 'Norway's inland sea', is 100 Kil. (62 M.) long,
15 Kil. (91,2 -^I-) in width at its broadest part, and 1480 ft. deep
near the S. end. It extends between the districts of Gudbrands-
dalen and Hedemarken to the N. and E., and those of Thoten and
0vre Romerike to the W. and S. In spite of its enormous depth,
its original connection with the sea is doubted by geologists, who
incline to attribute the depression to dislocation of strata. With
the exception of the Skreidfjeld (2300 ft.), on the W. bank, the
hills surrounding the lake are of moderate height.
The lake is traversed by several lines of Steameks, including services
fi'oni Ilamar to OJgvik and from Eidscold via Hamar and Gjevik (48/4 hrs.)
to Lillehammer (7'A hrs.). The b.inks with their unbioken succession of
fields, wuod.«, and pastures, studded with farm-houses and hamlets, are,
however, hardly jjicturesiue enough to encourage the jiurney by water. —
The Hunner itrret is an esteemed kind of trout peculiar to Lake Mj0sen.
84 Kil. Vlvin (420 ft.). Fine view of the Bay of Feiring , op-
posite. The train enters Hedemarkens Amt. 97 Kil. Espen (425 ft. ),
on the picturesque bay of Korsedegaard; 102 Kil. Tangen (540 ft.),
with the church of that name. The train ascends through a solitary
wooded region, past the small station of Stensrud, to (114 Kil.)
Stange (730 ft.), and then descends through a fertile district.
119 Kil. 0»estad (620 ft.), on the pretty Akersvik, which the train
crosses by an embankment, while the road, to the W. of it, crosses
by a wooden bridge.
120 Kil. Hamar (415 ft.; *RaiL Restaurant; Grand Hotel, with
view, very fair, R. 2-21/2 kr., B. 1 kr. 20 e., S. I'^kr.; Victoria,
Strand-Gaden, not far from the rail, station), a town with 5400 inhab.,
seat of the Amtmaud or governor of the district, and of a bishop,
is charmingly situated between two bays, the Furncesfjord to the N.
and the Akersvik to the E. The latter is crossed by a long bridge.
Hamar ( 'hill', 'headland) dates from 1152, when a bishopric was
founded here by the papal nuncio Nicholas Breakspeare. an English-
man, afterwards Pope Adrian IV, It was destroyed by the Swedes
in 1507. A visit should be paid to the ruins of the Cathedral,
dating from the 12th century. These lie about I1/4 M. to the N.W..
near the largo farm-house of Storhammer ; and we reach them by
following Strand-Gaden to the left on leaving the station, and then
Storhammer -Gaden, passing under the railway outside the town.
The four round arches of the nave, resting on massive pierS; are
62 R. 9. — Map, p. 50. LILLEHAMMEE. From Christiania
very picturesque. The modern town, which dates as a municipality
from 1848 only, has thriven greatly since the opening of the rail-
way to Trondhjem (p. 74).
From Hamar steamers (see p. 61) run twice or thrice daily (fares
1 kr. 30 0., 1 kr.) to Gjavik, passing the fertile island of Helge
('holy isle).
Gjflfvik (^Victoria, Gjevik's Hotel, both very fair), the capital of
Toten Fogderi, with 3100 inhab., is the terminus of the railway
(Nordbane) from Christiania (p. 61). About ^/^ M. to the N., on
the skyds-road to Vingnses (and Lillehammer; see below) , is the
church of Hunn (686 ft.).
The Road from Gjjsvik to (3^ Kil.) Odn^s (p. 53), passing ^langstuen,
was a favourite route to the Valders before the opening of the railway
(Nordbane).
Feom Hamar to Otta. — The railway skirts the Furnasfjord,
a large N. bay of Lake Mj^sen. View to the left of the Helge.
133 Kil. Jcsnes; 140 Kil. Brumunddalen, a flourishing industrial
■village; 144 Kil. Vddre, near the N. end of the fjord, with a pretty
view. — 153 Kil. Taiide, above Rimjsaker; the church of the latter
contains an early-Flemish altar-piece. On the adjoining peninsula
of Stansholmen are the remains of a castle of the 13th century.
The train now threads a tunnel and descends to (156 Kil.) Moelven,
again approaching the long and narrow N. extension of Lake Mj0sen.
160 Kil. Ring; 168 Kil. Bretlum; 175 Kil. Bergseng. Two tunnels.
184 Kil. LiUehammer. — Ingeekg"s Hotel, near the station and
the pier; "Victoria Hotel, prettily situated in the N. part of the town,
E. 2-3, B. IV2, D. 2, S. 13/4 kr.; Okmrud's Hotel; Johansen. — The hotels
send omnibuses to meet the trains and steamers.
Lillehammer (585 ft. above the sea, 180 ft. above Lake Mjesen),
with 3100 inhab., several saw-mills, a cotton-mill, and so on,
stretches for more than a mile along the road to the Gudbrandsdal
and is divided into a N. and S. half by the little Mesna. The town
Is old, but has enjoyed municipal privileges since 1827 only. It
is called Lillehammer ('little hill') to distinguish it from Hamar
(p. 61). — The railway-station and the church lie at the S. end of
the town. A few yards from the former, on the way to the town,
to the right, is the garden of Hirr Sandvik, containing a small col-
lection of old houses and other antiquities, from the Gudbrandsdal
(adm. 50 0.). — Near the Mesna bridge is a finger-post indicating
the way to (1^4 M.) the Heluedeshel, or 'hell cauldron', with the
pretty falls of the Mesna and a bath-house. — Another pleasant
walk of iy'2 ^^- leads to the S. from the rail, station to a bench on
the roadside, commanding a fine view of the narrow lake.
Opposite Lillehammer, on the W. shore of the lake (ferry from the
pier), lies the gaard of Yingnas.
At Lillehammer begins the Gudbrandsdal, which is watered by
the Laagen or Lougen (p. xxx). The name extends, as in other
en "sw;
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to Otta. TRETTEN. Map, p. 62. ~- 9. R. 63
districts, not only to tlje main yalley, but also to all its rami-
fications. The inhabitants [Gudhrandsdeler ; about 50,000) are
a ■well-to-do and high-spirited race, among whom curious old
customs still survive. According to Norwegian ideas the valley is
well cultivated, but the arable land has been laboriously reclaimed
by the removal of great quantities of stones, which are often seen
in heaps on the roadside. The syllables rud, rod, or ryd, with
which Norwegian names so often end, refer to the 'uprooting' of
trees and removal of stones. The chief occupation of the natives
is cattle-breeding, and their horses also have a good name. In
summer many of them migrate with their herds to the saeters. The
scenery is pleasing at places, but on the whole the valley is some-
what sombre.
The railway skirts the E. side of Lillehammer and crosses the
Mesna. Both sides of the valley are wooded. The Gausdal soon
opens to the left.
192 Kil. Faaherg; the church of that name is on the right bank
of tlie Laagen, which is here crossed by a bridge.
From Kaaberg a road, with last skyds stalions, ascends <he Gausflal
to the N.W. : 20 Kil. Veisten; 11 Kil. Moen; 17 Kil. Kvisberg.
The line ascends the left bank of the Laagen. — 197 Kil. Hunder,
near the farm of Fcssegaarden ((J20 ft.~). The Laagen here forms a fall
called the Hunnerfos (seen from the train, to the right) , where
Huuner-0rreter, or lake-trout (p. 61), are caught. We cross the
Laagen and skirt the steep Hoknafjeld{2A0b ft.). — 203 Kil. 0ier,
the church of which stands on the other bank. To the right flno
view of the broad green river and the wood-clad mountains.
214 Kil. Tretten (1870 ft. ; Hot. Losnavs, fair), at the S. extrem-
ity of Lake Losna (640 ft.), an expansion of the Laagen abounding
in flsh. The church of Tretten lies on the left bank, reached by a
bridge. At the head of the valley rise the snow-clad Rondane
(p. 75), looking from this distance of insignificant height.
From Tretten a new road (15 Kil.) ascends pa.st (5 Kil.) ]yinye's /^amt-
ioriiim (1870 ft.; well -eqiiiijpod ; li, 2V'.-3, B. I1/4, D. 2'/-', S. VU, board
3Va kr.) to the Heifjelds Sanatorium i Gausdal (2575 ft.; room 20-70, double
room 70-120, board >0 kr. per month; open iSth June to 1st Sept.). Pleasant
walks. The Skeidkampm (.3775 ft.; M'/a br.) and Prcestekampen (4200 ft.;
2 hrs.) are very fine points of view.
The railway follows the W. bank of LakcLosna, skirting the
Kilikwipien (;5550ft.) and other precipitous heights. — 224 Kil.
Loma. On the opposite bank lies the church of Fodvang. The
valley contracts. — Near (232 Kil.) Myre, on the opposite bank,
stands the wliite church of Faavang. An iron bridge crosses to the
hamlet of Tromsnas, on the left bank. Farther on, also on the
opposite bank, on a wooded height, is the old church of Rlngebu,
mentioned in 1270, but transformed into a cruciform church and
provided with a spire in the 17th century. "We penetrate the i^an-
klev by a tunnel and cross the Laagen and the Vaale. — 243 Kil.
Ringebu, near the gaard of Skj(fggeslad.
64 Route 9.—- Map, p. 62. VINSTRA. From Christiania
From Skjeeggestad a lonely path leads to (1 day) Solliden and thence
either to the "Atnevand and by Foldal to Jerkin on the Dovrefjeld (p. 71);
or down the valley of the Atne-Elv to Alna (p. 75).
The bed of the stream hecomes wider. The train runs on em-
bankments along the left bank of the river, skirting the base of the
Kjennuas and crossing the Frya. — 252 Kil, Hundorp (inn). The
gaard Huntorpe was once the seat of Dale Gudbrand, the powerful
heathen opponent of St. Olaf. Beyond it is the gaard Hove, for-
merly a heathen place of sacrifice. Near it are several barrows
('Ksempehouge').
l'"riim Hundorp a road (right bank) ascends the valley of the Fofsaa
to the Fagerhei Sunalorium (carr. in 4i/'2 hrs.).
Farther on we pass the church of Sendre Fron. The railway
approaches the Laagen, which soon becomes a mountain-torrent
and flows through a narrow gorge (view to the left) beyond (260 Kil.)
Harpefossen (inn).
Fnim the rail, station a road le. ds over the 'Harpe-Brn' and through
the Skordal to the (12 Kil.) Golaa-Bei/jelds Sanatorium (1970 ft. ; R. 2-4'/2,
board a'/z kr).
Farther on we skirt the foaming, rock-barred river. To the E.
we see the Solhraakampen. Beyond the church of Selorp or Nordre
Fron we reach —
268 Kil. Vinstra [Hotel Vinstra, with skyds-station, near the
rail, station, D. l^o kr.), opposite the junction of the Vinstra and
the Laagen. A road ascends on the left bank of the Laagen (bridge)
to (1 Kil.) the comfortable Furuheim Hotel <^- Sanatorium (R. 1-3,
B. 1, D. 2, S. 1, board 23/4 kr.; baths; English spoken). — From
Vinstra to Jotunheim, see p. 168.
Ahout 3 M. from Vinstra, on the Kong/slikampen, is the Kongsli Sana-
torium (ie40ft. ; E. IV2-2V2, board 3-4V2 kr.), which is well spoken of. —
The Fcefor or Fefor Sanatorium (2690 tt.; B. from IV2, board 31/2 kr.), on
the Fci'jorkampen, 71/2 M. from Vinstra, has also a good name.
From Vinstra to the Rdndane via the Myssu-Sceler, see p. 75.
The scenery becomes wilder and grander. The valley turns to
the N., and then to the W. To the left, about 1/2 M. on this side
of Klevstad, is a monument to Capt. Sinclair (see p. 65).
278 Kil. Kvam (870 ft.), with a church. A poor district, with
stunted pines and birches; fields irrigated by cuttings ; cottages
('Stuer') roofed with turf. The large slabs of slate often seen in
this district are chiefly used for the drying of malt.
287 Kil. Sjoa, opposite the mouth of the stream of that name.
The Road to the 'Sjoadal ascends to (15 Kil.) F.llingsbe, near the
church oi Hedalen. About 2-3 Kil. faither on ]its BJ0 If tad, an interesting
old gaard, the owner of which claims to be of royal descent. The main
builriing dates from the beginning of Ihe 19th cent., the others from the
17-18th centuries. — Fbom Ellingsb0 to Gjendesheim, a days journey
(skyds to Hovde 4I/2, two pers. 7 kr.). The fair road skirts the left bank
of the Sjoa, and alter about 12 Kil. forks. The right branch leads to the
Eandsrerk-Sater (p. C6), while the left bramh crosses the Fiiida and
continue to follow the Sjoadal, which here bends to the S., to (17 Kil.)
Hovde f^CeSft.; fair qiiarters). From this point the read (fkyds to Hind-
Sseter 4, for'2 pers. 6 kr.) ascends the Sjoadal, wh'ch turns to the W.
tu Olta. OTTA. Mup,p.66. — 9.Iioule. 65
and contracts to form the ravine of Riddersprangut, which takes its name
from the legend that the 'Valders-Ridder' sprang over it with his bride
in his arms when chased by the 'Sandbu-Rklder'. About 5 K.il. from
Hovdc we join the old route from the Randsverk-Sscter and follow this
to the S., crossing the Veo-Elr. to (15 Kil. from Hovde) the Hind-Smter,
situated at the influx of the Slore JHiuhn, which descends from the Naut-
^ardstind (p. 170). From the Hind-Seeter we proceed via the Ruslien-
Satter(p. 170) to the(10Ki! ) Besstrand Swter (p. 170; skyds 2V-2, for 2 pers.
S'/i kr.). We then row (boat, not always procurable, ca. 21/.; kr.) across
the JUrve Sjodalsvand or walk along the W. bank of the lake to (I'/i hr.)
the Be.s-Sositr. which is about 1 hr. from Gjendesheim (comp. p. 170).
The train recrosses the Laagen hy a long bridge, and hence-
forth follows the right bank. It crosses the green and copious Otia-
Elv near its mouth and reaches the terminus at —
297 Kil. Otta (945 ft.; Grand Hotel, R. l-2i/.,, B. I1/4, D. 2,
S. IVskr. ; Blekastad's or Otta Hotel, K. 11/4-2, B. 1 , D, ll/^,
S. 11/4 kr., both fair; Skyds Station, kept by Loftsgaard; Engl. Ch.
Serv. in summer), situated between the Laagen and the Otta~Elv.
A bridge crosses the Laagen to the Gudbrandsdal road, on which, a
little lower down, is the steep hill of Kringen. On 26th August,
1612, when Col. Ramsay and Capt. Sinclair with 900 Scottish
auxiliaries, who had landed a few days before at the Klungenas
on the Romsdalsfjord, were trying to force their way through
Norway to join the Swedes, then at war with the Norwegians,
they were intercepted by an ambush of 300 Norwegian peasants at
this spot. The natives had felled trees and collected huge piles
of stones on the hill above the road, which they hurled down on
the invaders. Most of the Scots were thus destroyed, and almost
all the survivors were put to the sword. [See p. Ixxiii; also Thomas
Michell's 'History of the Scottish Expedition to Norway in 1612'
(Loudon, T. Nelson & Sons), and Laing's 'Norway'.] A tablet on
the rock to the left, with the inscription ^Erindring om Bendemes
Tapperhed' commemorates the 'peasants' bravery'.
b. Koad from Otta via. Grotlid to Stryn, on the Nordfjord, and to
Marok, on the Geiranger Fjord.
190 Kil. (to Stryn) or 168 Kil. (to Marok), taking 2V2-3 days. Cariole
or stolkjarre to Grotlid, for 1 pers. 25 kr. 840., 2 pers. 38 kr. 76 f».; thence
to Hjellc <in the Strynsvand 12 kr. 63, 18 kr. 95 0.: for the whole wav
from Otta to Hjelle, cariole -iO, stolkjsprre 59, two-horse 'kaleschvogn'
for 2 pers. 85, 3 pers. ICQ, 4 pers. llo kr. From Grotlid 10 Marok 10 kr. 54,
15 kr. 81 0. ; from Otta to Marok 38, 56, 85, 100, 115 kr.
The road slowly ascends the Otta to the top of the fjeld and runs level
for some way, the scenery here being by no means striking. Bevond
Grotlid, however whence the road to Slryti T\ins to the S.W. and that to
Marok to the N.W., a vast improvement takes place. The roads from
Grotlid to Marok and Stryn belong to the W. coast of Is^orway and are
therefore described in R. 26. Travellers coming from the E. should, on
the whole, choose the Stryn route.
Good Night Quartkrs at Serum, Friisvold, Lindsheim. and Polfoneii;
and at Vida-Soeta; Skaare. and Hjelle (Stryn road).
The road ascends the wooded and monotonous Olladal, following
the foaming river.
Baedkkek's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 5
66 Route y. LOM. From Otta
17 Kil. Brovik. The road from Bjelstad i Hedal (p. 64) joins
ours, coming across a bridge on the left.
"We pass the old farms of Tolfstad, Bjernstad, and Snerle. The
valley expands, and the snow-capped Lomseggeii (p. 158) becomes
■visible in the distance. Near Serum our route is joined by the road
coming from Laurgaard (p. 69) via Nordre Snerle (21 Kil.).
12 Kil. Serum or Serem (Hotel, R. li/o, B. 1, D. 13/4kr., fair),
about ^/i M. from the old church of Vaage, first mentioned in 1270
and expanded , partly with the use of the old materials, into a
cruciform church in the 17th century. The old ornamentation points
to the beginning of the 12th cent, as the date of the original building.
The road now follows the S. bank of a lake 36 Kil. long, called
the Vaagevand (1135 ft.) in its E. and the Ottaimnd in its W. half.
Beyond the gaard of Voldcn, about 12 Kil. from Serum, a rough
road, diverging to the left, leads past the Lemitndijo to (29 Kil.)
Randsverk (p. 64), a large group of sjeters. Near the gaard Storvik
the road crosses the Tesse-Elv, which descends from the Tessevand
(3020 ft.), and forms several fine cascades. (The lowest fall may
be visited in ^/^h.v.; the highest, the Oxefos, in 11/2-2 hrs.)
Opposite, on the N. bank of the lake, rises the Skardhe (5340 ft.).
— Beyond Garino (formerly a skyds- station) we reach the new
hotel of —
21 Kil. Friisvold (very fair). — Farther on, the Lomskleu con-
ceals pajt of the lake, which now takes the name of Ottavand.
Facing us rises the huge Lomsegg (p. 158), at the foot of which
the Bcsvra, descending from the snow-mountains of Jotunheim,
falls into the lake. Near the bridge over the stream, which forms
a fall here, is the new Fosheim Hotel. — Just beyond the bridge,
on an old moraine, is the *Church of Lom (1290 ft.), an old
'Stavekirke' (p. 29), known to have existed in 1270 and after-
wards transformed into a cruciform structure, when the W. side was
lengthened and the lofty spire built. The apse is old and has the
usual round tower. The interior, with its nave and aisles, supported
by 26 flat-hewn columns, has lost its original character through
the introduction of a new ceiling. A silken flag with a hand holding
a sickle is said to commemorate the introduction of irrigation into
this district, where rain is scarce. By the Praestegaard is an old
'Stabbur', — Beyond the church the road forks. The branch to the
left ascends the Baiverdal to Rejshjem (15 Kil. ; p. 167). On this
road, about 1 Kil. from the fork, lies the station of —
16 Kil. Andvord or Anvord (fair quarters). — Our road continues
to follow the S. bank of the Ottavand. On the right, beyond the
lake, we observe the Loms-Horung (5660 ft.). The country here
is fairly well peopled. Rye and barley have been the regular crops
from time immemorial.
11 Kil. (pay for 15) Aanstad (fair quarters), near the church of
Skeaker, which lies a little to the right of the road.
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Beyond the Prastegaard tlie road crosses by an old bridge to the
left bank. Farther on it traverses thick deposits of sand, the remains
of old moraines. On the right vre pass the confluence of the Aur-
Eiv, descending from the Aursje, with the bluish-green Otta-Elv.
On the left soon opens the Lunderdal, with its immense moraines,
bounded on the S. by the glacier-clad Hesibrapigge (p. 158), by the
Holntinder in the background, and on the N. by the Grotaafjeld
(6380 ft.), the Tvarfjeld (6365 ft.), and the Svaahe (6135 ft.).
Farther on we recross the Otta-Elv by an ancient bridge in the
characteristic Norwegian style. The distant snow-peak ahead of us
is the Skridiilaupen (p. 68).
10 Kil. (pay for 14) Fkvkei (fair station), to the left of the
road. About 2 Kil. farther on is the former station of Lindsheim
(Inn, good, D. ll/o kr. ; Lars, the landlord, is well informed, and
also acts as a guide; private skyds).
Fkom Lindsheim to the Sognefjord. A road, turning to the left,
Ju3t short of the Domma Bridge (see belnw) and ascending the BrotedaU
leads via Aamot to (17 Kil.) Uork (2190 ft.), and thence, passing the ('/i hr.)
Dyringen- Sce/er, to (7-8 Kil.) the lower end of the Liavand. A footpath,
leaving the road at l)yringen and crossing the bridge, leads along the S.
bank of the brook and the S. bank of the Liavand i2475 ft.) to the (IV2 hr.)
Brcenden- or Brenn-Sater (occupied till the middle of Aug), whence it goes
on, with views of the Rivena:iskulen and the Tvaeraadalskirke, to the
(l><hr.) —
Soti-Saeter (2320 ft.; 4 hrs from Mork ; good qua-ters at Sven Kvi-
tingen's), a good starting-point for several fine Mountain Excursions (with
guide). 1. We ascend along the brook issuing fr.im the Sotkjcvrn and cross
it, into the Tvwraudal. From this valley we ascend t 1 the right through
the Steindal and traverse the glacier between the TiindredaUkirke (fi500 ft,)
and the Tvoeraadal.ikirke (6830 ft.) to the Fortundalsbva;. Hence a somewhat
trying descent brin;js us to the NerstedaU-Swter (p. 154 ; 9 hrs. from the
Sota-Saster). — 2. As above to the Tv;praadal, then to the right over the
EoV.brw to ihe FJeldsli-Sce'er (see p. 144). — 3. From the Sota-Sa'ter across
the bridge and along the N. bank of the stream, then along the 7i0fc.;(;sA'aaN
vnnd (3(J70 ft.) to the (li/a hr.) Mttsubi/lt-Sa'tev. The Svartbpidal is next
ascended to the Ilandspikje (4520 ft.), whence the route descends steeply
through the Spraiigdal to the Faaberg-Stel (p. 146).
Our road now passes the Nordbjergs-Kirke (left). The Opnaaaet
becomes visible beyond the Skridiilaupen. On the right the Gje-
dingsbcek descends from the Sletflykumpen (4485 ft.). The Domma
Bridge (ca. 7 Kil. from Lindsheim), by which wc cross the Otta-
Elv, commands a view of three valleys, the Tundredal to the S.
(with the snow-clad Tundredalskirke in the background; p. 154),
the Brotedal to the W. (see above), and the Billingsdal to the N.
The road ascends rapidly through huge rocky debris ('Ur'), over-
grown with flrs and pines, to the last-named valley. On the left
flows the Otta-Elv, which here forms the 0ibergsfos. We continue,
to follow the gorge of the brawling Otta and reach the Hegcrbotten-
viind, from which its foaming current issues. The lake contains
several islands. In the background is the Opnaa^et; to the riglit,
on the hill, lie the Heigerbotten-Satre (3020 ft.). Passing two saw-
mills, we next reach the Fredriksvand and the long Polvand
5*
68 R. 9. — Map, p. 66. POLFOSSEN. From Otta
(1930 ft.). Towards the end of the latter the Rauddal opens to the
left, commanded on the N. by the snow-clad Skridulaupen, with
the Framrusthovd and the Glitterhe.
21 Kil. (pay for 32) Polfossen (*Christ. Hjelters Hotel ^ Sana-
torium, with about 60 beds, R. li/o-^, B. or S. IV4-IV2, D. 1V2-2,
pens. 31/2-4 kr. ; landlord speaks English), finely situated amid
wood, near the fine series of falls called the *Polfos, which is over-
looked by a bridge. Trout-fishing may be enjoyed here.
By crossing the bridge and proceeding towards the N.W., we reach
the Botten-Swtei; which lies on the Glitters-Elv, the oulflow of the Glit-
tersvand. To the S.W. of Polfos, at the lower end of the RauddaJ , lies
the (I'A liT.) Framriist-Soetev (2P90 ft). From this sa-ter a. grand route,
much frequented before the opening of the Videdal road (p. 190), leads
through a wild district to (14-15 hrs.) the Strynsvand. The path ascends
through the Rauddal, skirling first the long Raiiddalsvand and then
the Rauddalshrm. After reaching the Kamphamre (-5065 ft.) we descend
rapidly into the Siindal and through the Hjelledal to Bjelle, on the Stryns-
vand (p. 189). — By crossing the bridge over the Framrust-Elv, to the S.
of the Framrust-Sa ter, and surmounting the ridge to the S.E., we reach
(1 hr.) Mork (p. 67), the starting-point of the passes to the Sngne district.
The road passes the falls of the Otta-Elv. The valley expands
and takes the name of Biliingsdalen. We cross a bridge over the
Kvarnaa , which descends on the right from the Syvstaalkirke
(4525 ft.) in a series of falls. Thousands of fallen trees ('Vindfald')
rot on the ground, as there was no market for them before the con-
struction of the road. We cross the Thordals-Elv, fed by numerous
glaciers and snow-fields. On hills formed by debris, to the right,
lie the saeters of BilUnyen, to the S. of which, on the opposite side
of the Otta, are the Aasen-Scetre. The country looks parched, as
rain is very scarce here in summer, the result of cutting down the
forests. We pass the Vuluvand, a pretty mountain-lake on the
left, into which the Vuludals-Elv falls ; to the right are the Ny-
Scetre (2686 it.'). The scenery becomes grander. The road is compar-
atively level. On the left is the Skridulaupbrce, with the Glitterhe
and Skridulaupen. In the distance, between this and the Kvitle-
naava (6263 ft.), is the high white ridge of the Jostedalshra. We
then pass the Heimdalsvand and Grotlidsvand.
18 Kil. (pay for 27) Grotlid, see p. 191. From Grotlid to Marok,
see pp. 191-193; to Hjelle (Strynsvand), see pp. 191, 190.
c. Boad from Otta to Aandalsnees, on the Romsdals-Fjord.
160 Kil., accomplished by skyds (skyds- station at the rail, station) in
2'/2-3 days. Cariole 29 kr., stolkjserre for 2 pers. 43 kr. ; carr. and pair
for 2 pers. 70, 3 pers. 80-90, 4 pers. 90-100 kr. — The scenery becomes
grander as we travel westwards. Finest parts for walking between Slue-
floten and Ormeim and between Flatmark and Aandalsnces.
The best nightquarfers are found at Laurgaard, Broendhongen, Tofte-
moen, Domaas, HoUa;t, Lesjevark, Melmen, Sluefloten, and Ormeim.
The road crosses the Laagen by the bridge mentioned at p. 65
and ascends to the N. through the Gudbrandsdal, on the left bank
of the river. Beyond the bridge over the Via, which descends from
to Aandalsncvs. DOMAAS. Map, p. 68.-9. R. 69
Luke Via at the foot of the Rondane (p. 75), aud forms the Daanofos
['thunder-fair) close to the road , we see the church of Sel to the
left. The curious wall of the churchyard is built of slate, and most
of the old tombstones are of 'klsebersten' or soapstone (saponite ).
The large and conspicuous mountain to the N., forming the back-
ground of the valley, is the Formokampen (4836 ft.). The valley
bends towards the N.W. We pass several deposits of debris, the
largest of which is near Laurgaard. We cross the river to Laur-
gaard, reached from Otta in alout I'/o hr.
15 Kil. Laurgaard or Laaryaard (1040 ft.; * Station, good
cuisine).
The road on whicli Laurgaard lies leads to the W. througli the valley
of the outlet of the SeUvand and crosses Ihe wooded ridge to (21 Kil.)
S0rum (p. 66). It cannot, however, be recommended.
A bridle-path, which diverge.s from the road to the right, a little
before it crosses the bridge in Ihe Rusten Kavine, leads to (11 Kil.) the
Hevringen-Scvte-r, fitted up as an inn, and owned by the station-master at
Laurgaard. The Formokampen (see above) is ascended hence.
We now return to the left bank of the Laagen. The road tra-
verses a *Ravine, which the river has formed in forcing its passage
through the rocky barrier of Rusten, descending in a series of
rapids and cataracts. The grandest point is at the '^Bridge which
carries the road to the right bank of the river, about 2 M. from
Laurgaard. The traveller should walk to the bridge, and order his
vehicle to meet him there. — Beyond the ravine we enter an Alpine
valley, in which cultivation almost ceases. About 3 Kil. from the
bridge is the new Rusten Hotel. On the right rises the Rustenfjeld,
on the left the Kjelen, a huge mountain-range between the Lesse
Valley and Vaage. As late as July large fields of snow are seen by
the road-side. The broad floor of the valley is covered with debris,
partly overgrown with stunted pines.
1'2 Kil. Braendhaugen (1555 ft.; Station, very fair), Brenn-
hauyen, or Br<rnnhatig (1 ^/i-i^/i hr.'s drive from Laurgaard) belongs
to the parish of Dovre. The Jetta (5425 ft.), rising to the W.,
affords a fine view of the Dovrefjeld, the Rondane, and Jotunheim.
We cross the Laagen and pass the church of Dovre (1550 ft.),
situated on an ancient moraine. The farms are nearly all on the
sunny side of the valley ('Solside'). A little beyond the church,
high up on the right, lies the once royal gaard of Tofte.
12 Kil. Toftemoen {*Fru Tofte s Hotel, good cuisine; li/o hr.'s
drive from Braendhaugen), an 'inhabited site' (Tuft) on a 'sandy
plain' (Mo). Comp. provincial English 'toft'.
The road ascends over huge deposits of detritus to the gaard
of Lid. Fine view of the deep ravine of the Laagen, with the Kjelen
rising above it. The peak in the distance is the Store Horungen.
11 Kil. Domaas, or Dom&aas (2160 ft.; *Hotel, R. 1 Vs, I)--, H. or
S. IV4 kr.), where the climate beiomes Alpine, lies at the diver-
gence of the Trondhjem route (R. 11) from ours, about 1^/4 hr.'s
drive from Toftemoen.
70 R.9. — Map,p.fi6. IVI0LMEN.
An excursion of 4-5 hrs. may be taken to the Haideg-Souler on the S.
bank of the Laagen, where a fine view of the Snehcetta (p. 72) is enjoyed.
The Romsdal road leads as far as Stuefloten through an un-
interesting mountain-valley, with a scanty growth of pines, birches,
and heather. Fine gaards on the slopes. The ascent is very gradual.
Below (left) is the bed of the Lesjevavd (1720 ft.), now drained.
12 Kil. Holaaker (1720 ft. ; fair station, moderate charges'),
li/2hr.'s drive from Domaas.
From Holaaker to lhe Avrsje-Hytte and thence to Lilhdal and Sundal,
pee p. 217; to the Aursj0-Hy1te and the Eikisdalsvand, see p. 213.
We now pass the Lesje-Kirke, and in 1^/4 hr. reach —
15 Kil. Holsaet (^Station, very fair; English spoken).
A bridle-path ascends from Holsset by the Lora-Elv to the Slorscetei
and the Nysceter (about 5 hrs.) , and crosses the mountains to the S. to
Aanstad (Skeal'ei\ p. E6), a long day's journey, which may be broken by
spending a night at the pleasant Nysfeter (see below).
The drive from Holsaet to Lesjevaerk takes I1/2 ln".
10 Kil. Lesjevserk (2065 ft.; Station, fair, a timber-built house
of the middle of the 18th cent.), so called from a deserted iron-
mine, lies at the S.E. end of the Lesjei-kogen-Vand (2050 ft.),
which forms the watershed between the Skager-Rack and the At-
lantic. To the former descends the Laagen, and to the latter the
Rauma, which flows out of the W. end of the lake, near the church
of Lesjeskogen, a place whence the whole district derives its name.
Near the church (II/2 l^r. from Lesjevaerk) is —
12 Kil. M«flmen (fair quarters), an angling and shooting resort.
The Stcrhei (6690 ft.), to the N., may be ascended hence in 6-8 hrs.
(there and back; with guide). The excursion to the Digervarde, to
the S. (see below), takes a whole day. Ed. 0. Melmen may be re-
commended as a guide.
From M0lmen to Skeaker (p. 66), in two days of 8 hrs. each. Walk-
ing difficult, as numerous brooks have to he forded; horse 12, guide
12 kr. Good weather indispensable. Provisions necessary.
1st Day. The path ascends slowly through a birch-wood in the Gren-
dal to the (1 hr.) Grenscctre (sseters of Enstad and Melmen). We descend
to the stream and cross several brooks and deposits of detritus. The
Alpine or Lapland character of the flora becomes very marked, and rein-
deer-moss, here eaten by the cows, is also abundant. After 2 hrs. more
the path ascends to the left. The scenery becomes exceedingly bleak and
wild. In IV2 hr. more we reach the top of the first hill ('Toppen'). The
Romsdal Mts. are conspicuous to the N.W. ; to the N.E. are the Svarth0i
and Storh0i, and farther distant the Snehfetta snow-range; to the S.W.,
the L0fth0i with its great glacier. A ride of 1 hr. to the S. over stony
ground brings us to the second 'Top', called the Digervarde, about 5250 ft.
in height, which commands a view of the whole Jotunheinj chain, from
the Glittertind (p. 173) and Galdh0pig (p. 158) to the Fanaraak (p. 160)
and beyond it.
We descend in about 2 hrs., partly over loose stones, to the Ny-
saeter (one double bed; coffee, milk, and bread form lhe only fare;
very clean).
2nd Day. Beyond the (1 hr.) Lorafjeld we pass several tarns and the
W. side of the larger FilUngsvand. The broad snow-clad mountain to the
left is the Loms-Horiing (p. 66), the W. end of which we reach in 3-4 hrs.
uioie. To the W. lies the Aursjfi (3395 ft.; not to be confounded with the
FOGSTUEN. Map, p. fid.— 10. R. 71
lake mentioned at p. 217), with a grand mountain-background. The path
next skirts the W. slope of the Horung for 1 hr., commanding the moun-
tain-range on the S. side of the Ottadal, including the Lomsegg, the Hest-
brsepigge, and the Tundredalskirkc, with the valley far below.
The descent to Skeaker takes a full hour (ascent 2 hrs.). The vege-
tation rapidly becomes richer (^Linttaea borealis abundant), and the tem-
perature rises. The path descends to the Aiii'a, the discharge of the Aursj0,
which forms a fine waterfall. Pines and then birches appear. The first
gaard on the slope of the valley is Bakke. Among the next is one on
the left with a tastefully carved portal. At the church of Skeaker the
greenish Olta is crossed by a long bridge (splendid view). We reach the
road near the skyds-station of Andvord (see p. 66).
Beyond Melmen, on the right, lies the gaard Einabu. An old
'bautasten', by the roadside, refers to King Olaf, 'the Saint', who
is said to have halted at this gaard on his flight in 1029 (p. xlviii).
Farther on the road skirts the Rauma. The scenery becomes more
imposing. In the distance are the mountains of the Romsdal.
13 Kil. Stuefloten [i^/^ hr.), see p. 210. The remaining stations
are (10 Kil. [pay for 11]; lV4lir.) Ormeim, (11 Kil.; lV4lir.) Flat-
mark, (12 Kil.; 1 l/o br.l Horghehn, and (14 Kil.; I3/4 hr.) Aandals-
nas. Details, see pp. 209-207. This part of the route, especially
beyond Flatmark, will amply repay the pedestrian.
10. From Domaas in the Gudbrandsdal over the
Dovrefjeld to Steren (Trondlijem).
155 Kil. Ro.AD , with fast staticins, less used since the opening,
of the railway (R. 11). Travellers from Molde who combine this route
with a visit to the Romsdal may easily reach Trondhjem in four days :
1st, to Siueflolen (p. 210); 2nd, to Domaas; 3rd, to Awie; 4th, to Sleren,
and in the evening by train to Tiondhjem.
Domaas, see p. 69. The Trondhjem road diverges to the N. from
the Gudbrandsdal, and ascends rapidly through moor and bog, with
stunted pines, to the Dovrefjeld, which separates Southern (Senden-
fjeldske) from Northern Norway (Nordenfjeldske Norge). Grand view
of the mountains, as we look back. In about 1 hr. we reach the
plateau. The road crosses the Fogsaa, an affluent of the Glommen.
To the left are extensive mountain-plains, where the Driva, which
descends to Sundal, takes its rise.
On the FogHuhe (5840 ft. ; ascent 5 hrs. there and back ; view
of Jotunheim, Sneh;ettan, and Rondane) we observe three saeters
on the right and others to the left. To the N. rise the Hundsje and
Skreda Fjelds, and beyond them the Snehaita (p. 72), the snow and
glacier of whose W. basin ('Botn') are distinctly visible.
10 Kil. (pay for 11 in this direction) Fogstuen or Foksluen
(3120 ft. ; Ant. Solherg's Inn, with 45 beds, very fair, often fre-
quented for a stay of some duration), in a grand but solitary situa-
tion, is one of the four 'Fjeldstuer', or mountain-inns, founded by
government on the Dovrefjeld for the use of travellers so far back
as 1107-10. The tenants receive an annual subsidy, and are bound
72 Route 10. — Map, p. 66. KONGSVOLD. From Domaas
to keep the roads open in winter and to forward tlie mails. The
Fokstue is now private property. The other three 'Fjeldstuer',
Jerkin, Kongsvold, and Drivstuen, belong to the state.
From Fogstuen the old road, now disused, crosses the loftj' Hard-
bal-ke (3750 ft.) direct to Toftemoen (p. 69j. — L. von Such, who travelled
by this route at the end of April (i.e. in winter) writes: 'The lofty pyramid
of the SnehEetta then came in sight amidst the haze, several miles to the
north. So rises Mont Blanc, seen from the Brevent, from its mantle of ice.
It is not a mere mountain, but a mountain on a mountain — a great and
sublime apparition commanding the whole of this solitude'.
The road crosses the Fogsaa and passes several lakes, beyond
which the stream is called the Folda. On the right are the Blaaheer.
We pass the Vardesje (2dSb ft.) ; to the right, farther on, are several
sajters. The road leaves the valley of the Folda and ascends to —
21 Kil. Jerkin or Hjerkin (3140 ft. ; Jerkin's Sanatorium, fre-
quented in winter by snowshoers, R. l^/o, D. 2, B. or S. l^/a kr.),
where our road joins the Foldal road (p. 76). Interesting walk to
the (1 hr.) Jerkinshe, the highest point on the old road (4105 ft. ;
not recommended for walkers), commanding a view of the Kollen,
Rondane, and Jotunheim. The only point from which the Snehaetta
is visible is the hill to the W. of Jerkinsher, crowned by a 'varde'.
Snehaettan (7630 ft.; 'snow-hat'), the sixth in height among the moun-
tains in Norway, is best ascended from Jerkin (12-14 hrs. there and back;
guide 4'/2, horse G'/z kr. ; provisions necessary; settled weather indispens-
able). The ascent was lirst made by Esmark at the end of last century.
For 3-4 hrs. we ride across a rocky and mossy tract, crossing several tor-
rents, to the Johan Jerkinshytte, known as Reinheim (12 beds ; key at Jerkin).
Lastly 2-3 hrs. over snow and ice. In clear weather (rare on the Dovre-
fjeld) the view is very extensive in every direction, but deficient in
picturesqueness, and far inferior to that from the Galdh^pig (p. 158). The
chief object of interest is the finely shaped mountain itself, composed of
mica-slate.
The road ascends a hill to the W., then descends gradually to
the Svonaa, the course of which it now follows. Striking view
of the Snehaetta, which looks quite near. The road crosses the
boundary between the Stifts of Hamar and Trondhjem, and gradu-
ally descends, past the little gaard of Grenbakken (on the left),
into the valley of the Driva, formed by the union of the Knld-
vella and the Svonaa.
10 Kil. (pay for 13, in the opposite direction for 14) Kongsvold
(2950 ft.; Station, good, often crowded in summer) is another good
starting-point for the ascent of Snehaettan and for that of the
Knutshe (5565 ft.; 3 hrs.; similar view), to the N.E., which is
botanically interesting.
The road now enters a narrow ravine enclosed by huge rocks,
through which the Driva careers headlong. Fine Alpine flora. The
old road ('Vaarstien') leads up and down hill on the right bank.
15 Kil. Drivstuen (2190 ft. ; Station, very fair). The valley ex-
pands; vegetation becomes richer; first the pine, then the birch,
and later a few fields of barley and potatoes appear. Scenery still
grand. We pass the mouth of the Amnots-Elv on the left, and soon
to Steren. BJERKAKER. 10. Route. 73
cross the Driva by a new bridge. A little farther on, about 9 Kil.
from Driv.stuen, and a few paces from the road, is a remarkable
gorge of the Driva called *Magalaupet (^^guWy^). The road, which has
lately been much improved, descends to a fertile zone of the valley.
12 Kil. (pay for 17j Rise (well spoken ofj, near the mouth of
the Vinstra, descending from the right. The Dovrefjeld termin-
ates at —
10 Kil. Aune (1770 ft. ; Station, very fair, R. IV4-IV2. B. or
S. 11/4 kr., D. 1 kr. 60 ».), also called Ny-Aune or Ny-0vne. The
route to the Suudal (Christiansund, Molde ; R. 28) here diverges
from that to Trondhjem. To the W., on the Sundal road, we see
the church of Opdal, with a pointed spire. The snow-capped moun-
tain beyond is the multi-peaked Horn (p. 218). To the E. is tlie
AUinandbjerg.
The Trondhjem road quits the valley of the Driva and becomes
uninteresting. It follows the Byna and crosses the low watershed
between that stream and the 0rkla, the valley of which latter it
traverses. We get a last glimpse of Snehaettan. Beyond (I'/ohr.) —
14 Kil. Stuen, or Nystuen (fair station), the road descends to
the 0rkla. We cross the Gisna, which here unites with the 0rkla,
forming a line waterfall. Then an ascent to (1V4~1V2 ^^-^ —
11 Kil. Austbjerg or Vlsbjerg (1365 ft. ; well spoken of).
From Austbjerg to T/jns^t, 72 Kil., a good road, with fast stations,
through meadows and forests, with line views, an interesting route
from the J0rkladal to the Glommendal. It passes the church of Inset,
runs high above the Jr^rkla Ravine, crosses the foaming Naven (Nccva) at
a copper-foundry with large chimneys, and reaches (11 Kil.) Naeverdal. The
river forms many rapids. — 13 Kil. (pay for 17, but not in the reverse
direction) Frengstad. We then pass the church of Koikne, with its sub-
stantial gaards (birthplace of B. Bj^rnson, the poet), and cross the brawling
Jen-Elv. The road ascends high on the right bank of this stream to
(14 Kil., pay for 17) Uteen i Kvikne. Soon after we cross the low watershed
and descend to the Tennen, which tlows through the Stubs0 (right) and
enters the Glommen at T^nsffit. — 14 Kil. (pay f<ir 17) Nylreen (good
quarters at a pleasant gaard). The road leads across the T^nnen to
(10 Kil., pay for 12) Fosbakken, where we have a line view of the jfefsterdal
Mts. — 14 Kil. (pay tor 17) Ujernsmoeii i Temsal (p. 76).
Still ascending, and traversing beautiful forest, the road skirts
the deep *y^iyme of the 0rkla. Fine views, particularly of the
snow-mouutains to the S.W.
12 Kil. Bjerkaker or Birkakcr (1325 ft.; fair quarters) lies on
the watershed between the 0rkla and the Gula.
Fkom liJEKKAKER TO 0RKEDALS)i(KEN, 74 Ki)., a road with fast stations.
The road descends in curves to the J0frkla (780 ft.) and follows its right
bank, passing several gaards. About 2/4 br.'s drive from Bjerkaker, to
the left, lies Gaard Hoel, where a famous drinking-horn is still shown,
presented by Christian V., out of which Charles XIV. John (Bernadotte),
Oscar I., and Charles XV. respectively drank when on their way to be
crowned at Trondhjem. Observe the huge birch-tree, 10 ft. in circum-
' ference. 14 Kil. Ilaarstad (720 ft.). 14 Kil. Qrut. 11 Kil. Kalstad i Mel-
dalen, from which a road leads by Garherg and Foseide to Surendals/irren
(p. 219). Our road passes Lgkkens Kobbervwrk, crosses the jBfrkla, and
next reaches (16 Kil.) Aarlivold. Hence to (12 Kil.) Bak and (S Kil.) 0rke-
dalaeien, see \>. 219.
74 Route 11. ELVERUM. From Christ! ania
The load traverses the munteresting iSolcnedal and follows the
course of the Igla, and then that of the Stavilla, which after
its union with the Hauka takes the name of Sokna.
12 Kil. Garli or Garlien [1355 ft. ; good station) lies on a height
to the left. After crossing the Igla the road enters a picturesque rav-
ine, in which the Sokna forms waterfalls and drives mills ('Kvsern-
hus'). Beyond the church of Soknedalen (870 ft.) we reach —
10 Kil. (pay for 11, in the reverse direction for 13) Prasthus
(700 ft.; fair quarters). The road follows the narrow, flr-clad valley
of the Sokna, first on the right, then on the left bank of the stream.
It passes near the church of Steren (to the right, on the opposite
hank), crosses an elevation, and reaches the valley of the Ovla.
14Kil. Steren oxEngen iSi^rcn (2 10 ft.), a station on the Trond-
lijem Railway (p. 77).
11. From Christiania to Trondhjem by Railway.
562 Kil. (350 M.). Railway {Nonthnncrne, starting at the m.iin rail.
statidn. PI. F, 4). In summer one through-train daily, in 171/4 hrs., stop-
ping at 14 only out of 68 stations (fares 43 kr. 70, 26 kr. 60, 15 kr. 30 0. ;
sleeping-berth , either first-class or second-class, 3 kr. extra ; 56 lbs. of
luggage free). Another train stops for the night at (14 hrs.) Temcct, arriv-
ing in (11 lirs.) Trondhjem next day (fares 17 kr. 80, 10 kr. 90 0. ; no first
class). Tickets for the slow train are available for the express on payment
of the difTerence. In order to secure good rooms at TfJnsset it is advisable to
write or telegraph beforehand. Hot meals are provided for express pass-
engers at Hamar only (I'/z kr. ; diners help themselves), for travellers
by ordinary train at Hamar and at Singfaas (same charge). At the other
refreshment-rooms nothing can be had except sandwiches (100.), beer (25 ff.
per pint bottle), tea, and the like.
The best views between Hamar and Eena are to the right; thence to
Trondhjem, to the left. The last part of the journey, especially beyond
JRgTros, is the finest. The traveller may go to Eidsvold by early train,
take the steamer to Hamar., and there join the express in the afternoon
(comp. p. 60).
From Christiania to (126 Kil.) Hamar, see pp. 60, 61. We
change carriages, and go on by the narrow-gauge Reros Railway
(engage sleeping-herth).
The train gradually ascends through the lonely wooded regions
of Hedemarken. Scenery uninteresting at first. Aaker, a small stop-
ping-place, is passed. 131 Kil. Hjellum; 135 Kil. Ilseng; 139 Kil.
Hersand (570 ft.). Fine view of the Skreidfjeld (p. 61), to the
S.W. of Lake Mjesen. 141 Kil. Aadalsbrug. Beyond (144 Kil.)
Leiten (760 ft.) we pass the drilling-ground of Terningmoen.
158 Kil. Elverum (610 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; Central Hotel,
St. Olaf's Hotel, i/o M. from the rail, station, beyond the river, both
very fair) is the first station in the valley of the Glommen, which the
train ascends to Reros.
The peasantry of 0sterdalen, the district traversed by the
Glommen and its affluents, are among the richest in Norway, some
of their forest-estates extending to many square miles. The value
to Trondhjem. KOPPANG. 11. Route 75
of tlieir timber Las risen greatly siucc the couipletiou of tlie railway.
Some of their gaards are comfortably and even luxuriously fitted
up, but they still adhere with pride to their original name of
peasants (^'Gaardbruger' ; sometimes parodied as 'Sofabender').
The timber is felled in autumn and winter, the hardy wood-
cutters often spending weeks in the forest, in spite of the intense
cold, and passing the night in wretched huts. The characteristic
form of the old houses of the district, with their open roofs and tall
chimneys, has been retained in many of the railway-buildings.
164 Kil. Grundset ((i40ft.); 171 Kil. 0xna (666 ft.). Near
(184 Kil.) Aasta (740 ft.) the train crosses the river of that name.
190 Kil. Rena (735 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant), on the right bank of the
Glommen, not far from the church of Aamot, near which are several
inns. Near (204 Kil.) Stenviken (785 ft.) the train crosses the Glom-
men by a long bridge, and now follows the E. bank (views to the left ).
214 Kil. Ophiis (805 ft.). Here, and farther on, the Glommen forms
lake-like expansions. 224 Kil. Rasten (840 ft.) ; 237 Kil. Stai (860 ft.).
The scenery assumes a more mountainous character. Fine view of
the floor of the valley, intersected by the river in many branches.
247 Kil. Koppang(915ft.; Rail. Restaurant; *Hansen, 2min. to
the left of the station-exit; Jernbane Hotel, opposite the station;
Koppang Hotel) lies on a height above the river. To the W., rising
above the forests, are high mountains, carpeted with yellow moss
(Lecidea geographica).
The train now runs through wood, high above the Glommen, and
crosses two bridges. Fine views towards the S. The mountains
increase in height, and the valley contracts. Bjeraanmsset, a small
stopping-place.
272 Kil. Atna (1170 ft.; Fjeldvang's Hotel, clean and com-
fortable), on the left (E.) bank of the Glommen. A ferry (10 min.
from the rail, station) crosses the river to Atneosen (skyds-station ;
good quarters), at the mouth of the Atne-Elv.
Visitors to the Rondane will find a competent guide in Ole Pedersen
Moen (i{ S0ndre Moen, near Brtcnden, on the Atnepj^. — From Atneosen
a new road (with slow stations; horses, as well as dinner at Solligaarden,
ordered by telephone from Atneosen) ascends the right banlc of the Atne-
Klv, crossing the stream at Hira, to (22 Kil.) Storbakmoen. [From Hira a
road leads to the left to the Storfjeld- Heater Sanaiorinm (18 Kil. from Atna;
well spoken of).] Our road next leads to (26 Kil.) Solligaarden, near the
church of Sollien, and to (23 Kil.) Utti, at the E. end of the Atne-Sje
(2296 ft.). Imposing view of the chief peaks of the Rondane : the Hegroiid
(6690 ft.), the Stiigfjeld (6230 ft.), and the Hundvashegda (6890 ft). These
peaks may be ascended from ib.& Musvold- Smler [gi\u^ quarters), which we
reach by crossing the lake by water-.«kyds (2-4 hrs.) and walking for about
IV2 hr. more. The Rondeslot (7100 ft.), the highest of the Kondane moun-
tains, is also ascended from this sseter, but a guide is indispensable (steep
and fatigning route thronj^h the Lcinglupdul and over the Hugrond ; 5-6 hrs.).
— From the Jlusvold-Seeter a path leads across the hills to \he Bjernhvll-
Sater (good quarters) and the (6-7 hrs.) Mytsu-Swfer, whence we can reach
Vimira in the (iudbrandsdal in 3-4 hrs. (see p. 64).
285 Kil. Hanestad (1250 ft.). On the opposite bank rises the
76 Route 11. \10ROS. From Christiania
Imposiug Gretlinybratten (3820 ft.). The train skirts the river, with
a view of high hills to the N., and again enters monotonous wood.
At (304 Kil.) Barkald (1485 ft.) the Glommen forms the Barkaldfos.
A visit from Barkald to the curious gort;e of Jutulhugget takes about
3 hrs. The gorge extends from the Tyldal on the E. to a point about l'/4 M.
from the Glommen on the W., where it suddenly ends in a chaos of pre-
cipitous cliffs. It is about 650 ft. deep, and its lowest point lies about 130 ft.
below the Glommen. The !:orge was formed, according to Iradition, by
the attempt of a giant to divert the Glommen into the Kendal.
324 Kil. Lille -Elvedal (1660 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant; Ole Hek-
toen's Hotel, Dahlie's Hotel, both close by and well spoken of), at
the entrance to the Foldal (see b.low). A bridge crosses the
Glommen here.
The Road tukougu the Foldal to Jekkin ofl'ers the shortest approach
from Christiania to the Sundal and Nordm0re. — 32 Kil. Ui/haugen, with
a view of the Rondane. — From (18 Kil.) Krokhaugen (fair station) a route
leads to the S. to the Atnevand and the Rondane (see p. 75). 17 Kil. Dalen;
splendid view of Sneha'ltan. — 17 Kil. Jerkin (p. 72). Thence via Kong.s-
vold, Drivstuen, Rise, and Auiie t i the Sundal, see pp. 72, 73.
The train skirts the base of the Tronfjeld (5610 ft.), a moun-
tain composed of gabbro and serpentine, which may be ascended
from Lille-Elvedal (carriage-road nearly the whole way). Fine
view of it, as we look back. — 337 Kil. Auma (1600 ft.). Dreary
scenery.
347 Kil. Tflfnsset (1620 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant ; Jernbane Hotel;
Schulrud's Hotel) lies near the confluence of the Tenna and the
Glommen, chiefly on the right bank of the latter. It is the centre
of the N. 0sterdal , which formerly belonged to the Stift of
Trondhjem. The former 'Stavekirke', dating from 1210, has dis-
appeared; the present church is modern.
From T^nsat to Kvikne and Ausibjevg, see p. 73.
The line traverses the extensive Godtlandsmyr. To the S.W.,
on the right side of the Tronfjeld, rise the Rdndane (p. 75).
358 Kil. Telnas (1630 ft.). The train ascends more rapidly.
Pasturage now takes the place of tilled fields. — 368 Kil. Tolgen
(1685 ft.), in an exposed situation. To the right, the Hummelfjeld
(5050 ft.). The vegetation assumes a thoroughly Alpine character.
385 Kil. Os (1975 ft.); the village lies on a slope (Lid) on the
opposite bank. The train crosses the Nera, traverses an extensive
moor, and reaches —
399 Kil. (247 M.) R«ros or Reraas (2060 ft. ; Fahlstrem's Hotel,
near the rail, station, very fair, R. 1, B. 1, D. li/okr. ; Mad.
Larsen's Hotel; *Rail. Restaurant ; halt of 6-10 min.), with 1800 in-
hab., situated on a dreary and inclement plateau. The town was
founded in 1646, after the discovery of the copper-mines. It lies
on the Hitter-Elv, while the Glommen, descending from the Aur-
sund-Sj£i (22&b ft.) , flows round the W. side of the town. The
curious timber houses are roofed with turf; the large church dates
from 1780. Vast expanses of turf, bordered with extensive ter-
races of glai-ial detritus and saml -hills, where the dwarf-birch
to Trondhjem. ST0REN. 11. Route. 77
alone thrives, have been converted into pastures by careful man-
uring. Corn does not ripen, and the forest is gone. Cattle-breeding
is the only resource of the inhabitants, apart from the mines.
The mines yield about 500 tdns of pure copper annually. The chief
mines are Storvarts Gvnhe, 271G ft. abiive the sea-level, 9Kil. to theN.E..
the ore of which yields 8 per cent of copper; near it, Ntj Solskins Grube;
to the N.W., 14 Kil., Kongens Grube, yieldin'j: 4 per cent of copper; Muy
Ovube, 22 Kil. distant. The mining is carried on by electricity, furnished
by the Kuraaffos, at the outflow of the Aursund-^■and (see below). The
smelting-works are the Beros Hytle, the Dragaas Ilyite at Aalen., and the
Lovisa JJi/tle at LiUe-Elvedal.
From R0ros we may drive by skyds, via (17 Kil.) Jensvold and (IS Kil.)
Skotgaarden on theAursund-Vond, to visit (not without privations) a settle-
ment of nomadic Lapps. — Annther skyds-road leads to the S.E., by (10 Kil.)
Scetern i Reroa and (17 Kil.) Langm, to (5 Kil.) Senderviken on theFsemund-
Sj0 (about 2300 ft. ; 79 sq. 31. in area, and 425 ft. deep) on which a steauici-
plies (hotel at the S. end of the lake). Thence to Sweden, see p. 376.
Beyond Reros the train passes the Storskarven on the right, and
traverses a bleak plateau. 406 Kil. Nypladsen (2055 ft.). Heaps of
copper ore (Kohhermalm) generally lie at the station. A little farther
on is the copper-coloured site of an old furnace. We now cross the
turbulent Glommen. Beyond (412 Kil.) Jensvold (2090 ft.) the
train crosses large expanses of debris. A stone to the left marks the
liighest point of the railway (2200 ft.), on the watershed between
the Glommen and the Giila, whicli descends to the Trondhjems-
Fjord. The train follows the valley of the latter to Melhus.
420 Kil. Tyvold (2180 ft.). — The train descends circuitously
on the slope of the broad and wooded basin of the Gula. Near
(432 Kil.) Reitan (1780 ft.) is the KUllngdalen Mine, the copper
pyrites of which is brought to the railway by a wire-rope line. On
the left are several old gaards. Below lies the church of Hov,
442 Kil. Eidet (1380 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant). Below it lies a cop-
per-foundry. A very picturesque part of the line begins here. The
train skirts the rocks of Dreilierne (seven short tunnels) and enters
the ravine of the Dreia, which it crosses by a lofty bridge. In the
<'uttings wc distinguish first the clay- slate, and afterwards the
granite and gneiss formations. 454 Kil. Holtaalen (985 ft.), with
a new church, prettily situated. The costume of the peasantry here
usually consists of a red jacket, leathern breeches, and a 'tophue'
or peaked woollen cap. We now descend the valley of the Gula to
(463 Kil.) Langlete (770 ft.) and (472 Kil.) Reitsteen (670 ft.).
480 Kil. Singsaas (575 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant), with a bridge
over the Gula. Large terraces of de'bris to the left mark the en-
trance of the Forradal. On the left, a line waterfall. — 486 Kil.
Bjergen (455 ft.). Three short tunnels. Kotseien, a stopping-place.
499 Kil. Rogticps (300 ft.), with a bridge over the Gula. A little
above Steren, to the left, is the church mentioned on p. 74, at the
confluence of the Sokna and the Gula. We cross the Gula.
510 Kil. Sti&ren (290 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; Steven's Hotel, with
skyds-station, at the rail, station; Hot. Norye) is pleasantly situated
78 Route 12. FETSDND.
1 M. below the mouth of the Sokna, along which the Dovrefjeld
road ascends (R. 10). The beautiful rocky valley is well cultivated
at places, and partly wooded.
517 Kil. Hovln (170 ft.). The train crosses the liver, which
here forms the Oulefos on the left and dashes through its narrow
channel. To the right is the church of Horrig. 524 Kil. Lundemo
(108 ft.); 530 Kil. Ler (80 ft.). The valley expands. The train
crosses a tributary of the Gula twice and ascends a little. 535 Kil.
/(Turtai (160 ft.). The train now descends; view to the left. 538 Kil.
Seberg (100 ft.). 541 Kil. Melhus (75 ft.), with a finely situated
new church (to the right). Numerous river-terraces are passed.
We now quit the Gula, which turns to the N.W. and flows into
the Gulosen, a bay of the 0rkedalsfjord (an arm of the Trond-
hjems-Fjord). The train turns to the N.E. and crosses the hill
between the Gula and the Nid, which falls into the fjord at Trond-
hjem. At (546 Kil.) Nypan (230 ft.) we get a glimpse of the 0r-
kedalsfjord, and of a snowy mountain in the distance. 551 Kil.
Heimdal (465 ft.), with the country villas of several Trondhjem
merchants. — We now descend for the last time, passing numerous
farms. At the stopping-place Selsbcek we reach the Nid-Elv, near
the Lille Lerfos (to the right; p. 225), and then follow its left
bank, threading a tunnel. Lastly (comp. Map, p. 232) a short
tunnel under the suburb of Ihlen , beyond which we reach the
harbour and the station of —
562 Kil. (350 M.) Trondhjem (p. 219).
12. From Christiania by Railway to Charlottenberg
(afzd Stockholm).
143 Kil. (89 M.). Railway in 41/2-574 hrs. (fares 9 kr. 30, 7 kr. 20,
4 kr. 40 91.). In summer one through-train runs daily between Christiania
and Stoekhiilm wlihout change in W-j-i hrs. Fares 43 kr. 5, 33 kr. 50 9i.\
1st class sleeping-berth 5 kr. (comp. p. 3r2), 2nd class berth (not obligatory;
on application to station-master) 3 kr.
From Christiania to (21 Kil.) Lillestremmen, see p. 60. The
Eidsvold line (p. 60) diverges here to the N. ; the Charlottenburg
train runs towards the S.E. , through less interesting scenery.
Lillestremmen lies on the N.W. bay, called Draget, of Lake 0ieren
(830 ft.), a long basin of the Glommen.
29 Kil. Fetsund, where the train crosses the broad Glomy;ten,
just above its influx into Lake J&ieren. Vast quantities of timber
enter the lake here every spring on their way down to Sarpsborg
andFredrikstad. The train now follows the E. (left) bank of the
river, which forms cataracts at places , all the way to Kongs-
vinger. — 37 Kil. Serumsanden ; 40 Kil. Bingsfors, junction of a
narrow-gauge railway to (54 Kil.; ^^/ohrs.) Skidlerud (steamboat
to Tistedalen and Fredrikshald, see p. 83). 42 Kil. Blakjer or
Blaker; 49 Kil. Haga; 58 Kil. Aarncps [Rail. Restaurant). At N(V3',
SKI. 13. Route. 79
3'/2 *!• to the N., the Vormen, descending from Lake Mjesen (p. 61),
falls into the Glommen. 67 Kil. Satersteen; 73 Kil. Disenaaen, a
halting-place; 79 Kil. iS&arrKES, prettily situated; 87 Kil. /Sander ;
92 Kil. Galterud.
100 Kil. Kongsvinger (480 ft.; *Rail. Restaurant^ -with rooms
to let). The small town, with 1500 inhat., lies on the right bank
of the Glommen, fully 1 M. from the station. The Fortress (Fffsi-
ning; 770 ft.), erected in 1683. but now dismantled, played an
important part in the wars between Sweden and Norway (tine Yiew).
From Kongsvinger a branch-line ('Sol^rbane''; cO Kil., in 40 min.) runs
to Fliten, at tbe month of a tributary of the Glommen.
The railway turns to the S.E. and quits the Glommen. The
Vingerse (475 ft.) and the long lakes near Aabogen and elsewhere
are basins of a now deserted channel of the Glommen, which
channel is followed by the railway (comp. p. 312).
112 Kil. Aabogen, 122 Kil. Eidsskog, 127 Kil. Skotterud, 133
Kil. Magnor, all with extensive timber-yards, the last also with
various factories. The train quits tbe district of Vinger, in which
Kongsvinger lies, a little beyond Magnor, and crosses the Swedish
frontier.
143 Kil. (89 M.) Charlottenberg , the first station in Sweden,
and thence to Stockholm, see R. 48.
13. From Christiania to Gotenburg by Railway.
356 Kil. {221 M.). R.ulwat. Frum Christiania to Korme, in b^ji-S^ji hrs. ;
thence to Gotenburg in 6 hrs. mure, with change (if carriages at ilelleiud
(fares to Fredrikfhald 8 kr., 6 kr., 3 kr. 90 0.; thence to Gotenburg 16 kr. 6,
9 kr. 45 0. ; night-train 11 kr. 60, 8 kr. 20, 5 kr. 50 0.). From Christiania
to Gotenburg one through day-express (going on to Malmo) in 12 hrs.
(fares 26 kr. 75, 20 kr. 35, 13 kr. 85 0.) and one through night-express (with
sieeping-berthg) in 10 hrs. (fares 30 kr. 35, 22 kr. 55, 15 kr. 45 0.). Railway
restaurants are few and far between.
The railway-journey itself is uninteresting, hut the traveller should
stop at Sarp.'borg, FredrHshcild , and TroUlidttan, gtiing on in each case
l)y the next train , and spending one night on the way if necessary.
Steamers run daily from Moss, Fredrikstad, and Fredrikshald to Goten-
burg. Travellers in the reverse direction ,'hould leave the railway at Moss
and take one of the local steamers up the beautiful fjord to Christiania.
Christiania, see p. 9. (As far as Moss. comp. Map, p. 22.)
The train rounds the suburb of Oslo and skirts the base of the
Ekeberg (p. 20) , affording a line retrospect of tho town. From
(4 Kil.) B(Tkkel<iget we survey the islands and villas of the Orm-
sund. The train skirts the Bundefjord , passing many country
houses. 8 Kil. Ljan (Freken Hammer's Pension, finely situated,
85-100 kr. per month). The train ascends to (18 Kil.) Oppegaard
(320 ft.). To the right is Nasodden, a large peninsula separating
the Christiania Fjord from tbe Hnndefjord. — 24 Kil. Ski (420 ft. ;
Roil. Restaurant^.
80 Route 13. FREDRIKSTAD. From Christiania
From Ski to Saktsbokg, 81 Kil., by the 'jB^stre Linie', uninteresting.
— 6Kil. Kraakstad; 13 Kil. Tortiter; 21Kil. Spydeherg. The line then crosses
the brnad Glommen. — 29 Kil. Askim (394 ft.), with nickel-mines. The
Glommen Flertncitii Works here, using four falls formed by the Olommen
at Kykkelsnid and Ilrerve, are, perhaps, the largest in Europe (60,(.)CK) horsc-
jiower, conveyed as far as Christiania). — 35 Kil. Slitu; 40 Kil. Myien;
45 Kil. Eidsberg; 55 Kil. Rakkesiad; 61 Kil. Gautistad; 73 Kil. Ise. The train
then runs along the Aipeit, and, crossing the Glommen by the bridge
mentioned at p. 81, reaches (81 Kil.) Sarpsborg (p. 81).
Near (32 Kil.) Aas is an agricultural school. 39 Kil. Vesthy ;
48 Kil. Sorter, station for Soon, a sea-batliing place. The train now
descends to the fjord and skirts the picturesque Mossesund, the
strait between Moss and the Hjelle.
60 Kil. Moss (Rail. Restaurant ; Arnesens Hotel, l/-? M. from the
rail, station, R. 2-21/2, B. 1-1 i/o, D. 2-21/2, S. 1 1/2 kr., very fair; Brit,
vice-consul and Lloyd's agent, Mr. J. Vogt), a thriving town of 8900
inhab., lies on a bay of the Christiania Fjord. The convention of
14th Aug., 1814, in conformity with which Norway ceased to oppose
the union with Sweden, was signed here (p. Ixxvii). The station is
on the S. side of the town, 5 uiin. from the steamboat-pier on the
Hjelle, to Avhich a bridge crosses. Opposite the church is an old
churchyard, with tombstones of the 18th cent., now a promenade.
On the Hjelle are several pretty villas, the Jeleens Sanatorium
( 90-125 kr. per month), and the orphanage of Orkered.
Steamers ply between Christiania and Moss several times daily , in
4 hrs. A great part of their coiirse lies between the Hjell« and the mainland.
Next stations : Dilling, Rygge, Raade, Onse. The train crosses
the Kjelbergs-Elv, and passes through a tunnel.
94 Kil. Fredrikstad. — Hotels. Olsen's Hotel, more than 1 JI.
from the station, R. 11/2-4 kr., B. 80 0., D. (2 p.m.) 2, S. iV2 kr. •, Skandi-
NAViE, near the pier, K. 2-3'/l': B. V-i-lVs, D. (1 30 p.m.) 2, S. l'/^ kr., both
with electric light and baths. — Railway Restaurant. — British Vice- Consul
and Lloyd^s Agent, Mr. C. Thiis.
Fredrikstad, a town with 14,500 inhab., lies on the Christiania
Fjord, at the mouth of the Glommen, on which the timber of
Osterdalen (p. 74), the most richly wooded district in Norway, is
floated down to the sea. The town owes its importance to its timber-
trade with Germany, Holland, France, etc. The busiest quarter is
the Forstad, on the W. bank of the river, with the railway-station,
a large new church, a theatre, and the 'Forlystelsehus Valhalla',
a popular place of amusement. The old town on the left bank was
founded by King Frederick II. in 1570, and was once strongly
fortified. A steam-ferry plies between these two parts of the town.
About 7 Kil. to the E. of Fredrikstad, and 6 Kil. to theS. of Sannesund,
lies Torsekilen or Hundehuiulen, a pleasant sea-bathing place. — To the W.
of Fredrikstad lies the island of Ilanke (p. 8).
Beyond Fredrikstad we pass on the left some curiously worn
rocks. Pleasant views of the broad river. The train crosses an arm
of the Glommen. The banks are covered with factories, timber
yards, and brick-fields. 103 Kil. Greaker. The train quits the
JO,
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_ ^j !rl^ Ir 3^ ® VJ !iV\ *! laumfabrik nBarregaaidSuIfit-
ZHoUe Off J'apirfalrrU-
i ■■ 26.100
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to (iotenbary. rREDRIKSHALD. 13. liovte. 81
Glommen. 106 Kil. Sannesund, station for the S. port of Sarps-
borg, with the quay of the Fredrikshald steamers.
109 Kil. Sarpsborg ( Victoria Hotel ; Aarsland' s Hotel ; Christian-
sen's Hotel)^ a town of GSOOinhal)., on the left bank of the Glommen,
was founded in 1840 on the site of an ancient town destroyed in
1567. To the N. of the town the river forms the lake of Glengshelen^
and to the S.E. the huge *Sarpsfos, which affords water-power to
numerous saw-mills, paper and cellulose factories, etc. At Hafslund,
on the left bank of the river, is an electric plant, which furnishes
power to the factories between this point and Fredrikstad.
A few hours suffice to visit the fall. From the station we either
follow the road through the town, or turn immediately to the left,
and then to the right, by a path which rejoins the road. The road
then leads under the railway and with it crosses the fall by a
Suspension Bridge (see p. 80). The finest point of view on the
right bank is a rocky projection, to reach which we descend to the
right on this side of the bridge. The scene is, however, more im-
posing from the left bank, where the points of view are protected
by railings. We descend from the bridge, and cross the channel
('Teminer-Rende') for the descent of the sawn wood. (The dizzy
path along the Temmer-Rende is prohibited.) The huge volume
of water, 116 ft. in width, falls from a height of 74 ft. More than
one-third of all the timber exported from Norway is floated seaward
on the Glommen (upwards of 5,000,000 logs annually; comp. p. 24).
In the winter of 1702 a portion of the right bank, 2000 ft. long
and 1300 ft. broad, on which lay a large farm-house, having been
gradually undermined by the water, fell into the river with all its
inmates and cattle. — From Sarpsborg to Ski, see p. 79.
The train now crosses the Glommen by a lofty bridge , borne
by the four piers of the suspension-bridge above mentioned, and
overlooking the Sarpsfos to the right. 119 Kil. Skjeberg (128 ft.),
in a marshy hollow; 131 Kil. Berg (230 ft.). Woods and patches
of arable land ('Smaa-Lene') alternate with marshes and meadows.
Farther on the train reaches the Idefjord, and affords a view of
the Brate. On the fjord are some large marble-polishing works,
the marble for which comes from Fuske, near Bode (p. 242). Sev-
eral tunnels. The train passes between the tjord on the right
and a rocky height on the left. It then skirts the grounds of the
Villa Red (PI. A, 2; visitors admitted) and crosses the Tistedals-Elv.
137 Kil. Fredrikshald. — Hotels. •Grand-Hotel, at the station
(I'l. C, 3). with baths ami electric liyht, R. 2-3, B. l-lV'a, D. 2-3, S. 1V2-2 kr. ;
"ScHULTz's Hotel (PI. b; D. 3), Kirkestr»de, with electric light, K. S'/r
31/2 kr., B. SO0., D. (? p.m.) 2, S. I'/a kr., quiet, with garden; Ivebskn's
Hotel, very fair, R. 1-2, B. 1, D. (2 p.m.) l'/:. S. 1 kr. — Rail. Restaurant.
Steamers to Stromttad once or twice daily (fare IV2 or 1 kr.) ; to
Ohristiania, see p. 11. — Brit, vice-consul, Mr. W. Klein. — Ll(iyd\s agent,
Mr. W. Uritfeldt.
The ascent of the Fredrikstten (there and Lack) take.s at>oiit IV2 hr.
(carr. 3 kr.), including the excursion to Wein 3 bra. (carr. 7 kr.).
Babdekeb's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 6
S2 Route 13. FREDEIHSHALD. From Vhristiaiiia
Fredriksliald, an old town with 12,000 inhab., several times
rebuilt, is picturesquely situated on both banks of the Tistedals-
Eiu, whidh here enters th'e Idefjord. It is one of the centres of the
timber traffic of E. Norway and the adjoining parts of Sweden.
Upwards of 1,000,000 logs are collected here annually. On the S.E.
it is commanded by the once important fortress of Fredrikssten. The
villas of the wealthy merchants line the fjord.
FredrikshaJd owes its name to the bravery with which the inhabitants
repelled the attacks of the Swedes in 1658-GO, in consequence of which
Frederick II. exchanged its old name of Halden for Fredrikshald, and in
1661-66 founded the fortress of Fredrikssten. The Swedes under Ch irles XII.
again attacked the town in 1716, and were again unsuccessful, chiefly
owing to the gallantry of Peder and Bans Kolbjernsen. In 1718 Charles XII.
basieged Fredrikshald a second time, but was shot in the trenches at the
back of the fortress on lith Dec, wh-'reupon his army raised the siege.
A walk by the harbour (PI. C, 4) affords a flue view of the
Fredrikssten and of the islet of Sauge (p. 83). Adjoining the
harbour is the market-place (Torvet; PI. C, I), 3), where a simple
monument commemorates the gallantry of the brothers Kolbjernsen.
We follow P. Kolbjernsen's Gaden to the E., cross the outer
wall of the fortress, and ascend a broad road in 8-10 min. to the
gate ('V. Port' in the annexed Plan) of the *Frbdkikssten (PI. E,
3, 4; 365 ft. ; admission free). This fortress crowns a rock rising
precipitously on three sides, and dates in its present form chiefly
from the reigns of Frederick V. (d. 1766) and Christian VII. (d.
1808). The garrison consists of a few companies of infantry. The
best point of view is the Brandbatteri (PI. 11 ; E, 4), with a flag-
staff and some guns, immediately to the left beyond the Vest-Port.
A good view is also obtained from the Klokketaarn, the way to
which should be asked. Passing through the fortress to the E. gate
('0. Port'), where to the S. and S.E. we observe the once important
forts of Overljerg, Stortaarnet, and Gyhlenleve, we turn to the
left. Where the road divides, we again turn to the left (the road
to the right leading to the town and to Tistedalen), and soou
reach a wooden gate leading into the Commandant Park and to the
Monument of Charles XII., erected in 1860 by the Swedish army.
It consists of a cast-iron pyramid with an inscription by Tegn^r,
to the effect that the hero, 'alike in fortune and misfortune, was the
master of his fate, and, unable to flinch, could but fall at his post'.
'His fall was destined to a barren strand,
'A petty fortress, and a dubious hand;
'lie left the name at which the world grew pale,
'To point a moral or adorn a tale'. (Sam. Johnson.)
Adjacent are a stone and cross, marking the exact spot where the
hero fell in 1718. — If time is limited we return by the same route.
Leaving the Park by the S.W. exit (comp. PI. F, 4), we reach the
Tistedalen road a little below the bifurcation mentioned above, and descend
in 6-8 min. to a broader road leading from Fredrikshald to Id. We turn
to the left and after 5 min. diverge to the right. (A finger-post on the left
shows the way to the Skonningfos.) After 9 rain, (not to the left over the
Skonningfos bridge, which allords a view up th'3 valley to the villa of
to Goltnbury. ED. 13. lioute. 83
Wein, but) straiglil on, ascending gradually by the road on the left bank
for '/s ^'■•1 '""^ crossing the bridge tn the left to Tistedalen. We then
ascend to (10 min.) the hifih-lying yellow country-huuse of Wein (pron.
'Vane'), which coianiands a view of the FemsJ0(see below) and of theTistedal,
extending to Fredriksha!d. We retrace our steps nearly to (8 min.) the
church of Tistedalen, and, keepint; to the right, descend on the left bank
of the river to (35-iO min.) the Skoniiingfos bridge, from which 20 min.
more bring us to Pecle?- Eolbjeriisen's Park (PI. D, E, 2).
Time permtting, the traveller may take the ferry (10 0.) to the Saug0
(Pi. B, 4) and walk through a narrow valley to the other side of it. Fine
view of the fjord with Brat0 and the Swedish coast oppo^^ite.
Fkom Fredkiksuald to Christiania. by Ska, steamer daily, except
Blon., in 7V2-11 brs. (fare 4'/2 or 3 kr.). The passage from the Idefjovd
through the Svinesund into the wide Single Fjord is picturesque. For
the rest of the route, see p. 85.
From Tistedalen (see above) a Steamek plies thrice weekly to Skullerud
(l>. 78) in 9 hrs., afl'ordiug a pleasant trip.
Ou leaving Fredriksliald, we have a view of the pretty Tistedal,
with its waterfalls, mills, factories, and country-houses. The train
quits the valley by a short tunnel at(l40Kil.l Tistedalen (see above),
and runs along an ancient moraine resembling an embankment.
At (141 Kil.) Feinsjeen we obtain a beautiful view of the lake
of that name (275 ft.), G'/o Kil. long, which is connected with the
large Aspern (340 ft.), the Aremarks-Sje, the J&demarks-Sje, and
the 0rje-Sje by canals constructed for the timber-traffic.
The fortress of Fredrikssten is visible to the W. for a short
time. Several tunnels. Glimpse (right) o*' part of the fjord of Fred-
rikshald. Beyond (150 Kil.) Aspedammen (left) we get a glimpse
of the 0rsje. Large timber-yards are passed near (159 Kil.) Pras-
tebakke, beyond which we enter a thickly wooded district.
107 Kil. Korns* (475 ft.) is the last Norwegian station, but the
Norwegian customs-examination usually takes place atFredrikshald.
The line crosses the Swedish frontier. The district, almost
uninhabited, is marked by the traces of forest conflagrations. At
(178 Kil.) Mon ( Rail. Re^tatirant ) the Swedish custom-house exam-
ination takes place (comp. p. 312). Beyond Mon the train traverses
a bleak heath, surrounded by barren hills. 185 Kil. Ubkedalen.
189 Kil. Ed {*Rail. Restaurant, I). I'/o kr.) , prettily situated
above the Stora Lee (branch-line, i^;^ M.). By the station is a
small monument to Nils Ericsson, the engineer (p. 299). A few
paces farther on we obtain a line view of the lake.
The district beyond Ed abounds in marshes. Scenery monoton-
ous. At (207 Kil.) Bdckefors we cross the line from Uddu valla to
Bengstfors (p. 85). Beyond a tunnel we pass the Tiakcrsjo on the
right. 217 Kil. Dalskog. Farther on, to the left, we come in view
of Lake Venern and the small chalybeate baths of Rastok.
233 Kil. Mellerud (Rail. Restaurant), junction of the Goten-
burg and Falun Railway (R. 55) and of a line to (3 Kil.) ^unnaiia
on Lake Wenerii. — From Mellerud to (123 Kil.) —
356 Kil. Gotenhurg, see RR. 43, 55.
84
14. From Christiania to Gotenburg by Sea.
325 Kil. (2Ui M.). Steamboats daily, in each direction, in 16-19 hrs.
(fare, first-class only, 16 kr.). The steamers call at the following inter-
mediate stations: Strdmstad, Ila/tensund, Grebbeslad, FJellbacka, Tungen,
Lysekil, and Marstvand. Most of the voyage is within the island-belt
('indenskjeers'. Swed 'inomskiirs'); but sea-sickness is not unknown on
Ihe open bit of the Skager-lJack, in approaching Stroinstad. Travellers in
the reverse direction an ive after dark and so miss the beauties of Christiania's
environment. Hurried travellers may have their bagt;af;e examined on
board and land at once, but the usual jiractice is to spend the night on
the steamer aiid attend the examination at 8 a.m. the next day.
Good local steamers also ply from Gotenburg (Stenbro; PI. I>, 2) once
daily to Uddevalla (P^j'z hrs.; 4 kr.) and several times daily to Marstrand
(2 hrs.; 1 kr. 75 0.; comp. Kommunikationer 197).
The voyage through the Swedish island -belt ('skargard') is
interesting, though the scenery can hardly he described as pic-
turesque. Thousands of islands, either entirely barren or clothed
only with some scanty vegetation on their E. side, break the force
of the waves of the Kattegat and S!cager-Rack, and hence the sea is
generally calm. The climate here is said to be unusually healthy,
the sea-bathing places are much frequented, and the water is much
Salter and purer than in the recesses of the long Norwegian fjords.
The inhabitants are chiefly fishermen, sometimes wealthy, and are
descendants of the ancient vikings, who have left representations
of their exploits in the 'Helleristningar' (p. 85) still to be seen
in the parish of Tanum near Grebbestad, at Brastad near Lyaekil,
and elsewhere. At many points on the coast there are remains of
ancient castles, tombs, stone chambers f'valar'), and monuments
('bautastenar'), so that this region (Bohusldn) is .justly regarded as
a cradle of northern sagas. The cod, herring, lobster, and oyster
fisheries are the most important. "Windmills crown almost every
height. The thotisands of islands through which the steamer passes
are little more than bare rocks.
The *Christiania Fjord down to Moss is described in R. 1.
Below Moss the fjord widens, and the scenery becomes less in-
teresting. At the mouth of the fjord we steer to the E. into the
picturesque fjord oi Fredrikstad (p. 80). We then pass the Hualeer
(right) and the Singeleer (left), and enter the narrow Svinesund,
the boundary between Norway and Sweden, on a bay of which (the
Idefjord) lies Fredrikshald, commanded by the fortress of Fred-
rikssten (see p. 82). The Gotenburg steamers, however, do not call
at Fredrikstad or at Fredrikshald, but steer direct to —
Stromstad (Hotel Stromstad; Stads-Hotel; British vice-consul,
Mr.W. T. Lundgren), the first Swedish station, a favourite watering
place (pop. 2800 ; mud and sea baths), at the efflux of the Stromsa
from the Strdmsvatn. The badgyttja ('bath-mud') is obtained near
the town. In the environs are numerous caverns and 'giant's caul-
drons' (jattegryttor), formed partly by water and partly by glacier
action. Stromstad is a great depot of oysters and lobsters. At
l.YSKKIL. 14. Route. 85
Blomsholm, i^/2 M. to the N.W. of Strcimstad, is a 'stensattiiiiig'
(standing stones ; comp. p. 282) in the form of a ship.
Beyond Stromstad the vessel steers through the narrow Harsten-
sund, passes the Nordkosters Dubbelfyr (lighthouse) on the right,
and steers S.E. through the Kosterfjord. Near Grebbestad, a
fishing-village and bathing-resort, is the battlefield of Greby, ■with
numerous 'bautastenar', supposed to commemorate a defeat of
Scottish invaders. In the neighbouring parish of Tanum are ,a
great many 'Helleristningar' or 'sgraffiti', consisting of figures of
men and animals, ships, symbols, etc., scratched on the rocks in
prehistoric days.
Fjellbacka, the next station, with 900 Inhab., a large church,
and a brisk trade in anchovies, is curiously situated at the foot of a
rock. In this rock is the Rammelklava or Djefvulsklava, a narrow
cleft, near the top of which several large stones are wedged in. To
the W. are the Vaderoar and the Vaderbodsfijr. We now enter the
Sotefjord, with its dangerous sunken rocks ('blind skar'"), swept by
the waves of tlie Skager-Rack. On the peninsula of Sotencis, to the
left, are the fishing-villages and bathing-places ^S^moyen, Grafvernu,
and Tangen. We next pass the Hallo Fyr and the Malmo, with
quarries of brown granite. Steering S.E., we then call at —
Lysekil (Hotel Bergfalk; Hot. IJndberg; Stads-Hotel; Hot.
Lysekd ; British vice-consul, Mr. W. F. ThorburnJ, a favourite
watering-place (2800 inhab.), with a trade in anchovies and a hand-
some Gothic church, on the long peninsula of Stangenas, which
with the Bokends forms the Gulimarsfjord, extending far inland.
Though Lysekil lacks shade, it vies in popularity with Marstrand.
Good bathing; pleasant villas. Sailing-boats 1 kr. per hour. Ex-
tensive view from the Flaggherg.
Beyond Lysekil the UdJevalla steamers take the inner course ('inic
va^en), throuj^h the Sccmeswid and hetvifeen the islands of Orust and Tjiji'n
and the mainland. They touch at StenungsO, LJungsfcile, and other small
watering-places.
Uddevalla (Slora Hotel, well spoken of; Uddevalla Hotel; Cramer's Hotel;
Brit, vice-consul, Mr. T/iorbuvn, see above), a town with 8600 inhab., a
cotton-mill, and a small museum of antiquities, is prettily situated on the
Byfjord. The KalgFirdsherg is the t)ost point of view. The Kapellbackar
(201) ft.), hills of shell marl, to the W., are interesting. Near the town are
the pleasant liaiha of Giis/nfsberg.
Railways run from Uddevalla to Oxnered (p. 295) and to Bdckefon
(11. 83; GO Kil , in 3 hrs.) and Bengstfors (89 Kil., in 41/2 hrs.), on the Dais-
land Canal (p. 2'j9).
The Gotenburg steamers follow the outer course ('ytre vagen')
to the W. of the islands of Orust and Tjorn. To the left lies Fiske-
licickskil, a bathing-resort with a biological station of the Stockholm
yVcademy of Sciences. Farther on are the fishing-villages of Gaso
(right), Orundsund (left), and Gullholmen on the Hermano (right).
We pass the Maseskcir and the Kdrringij, with their lighthouses, and
sight the red house.s and the cliurch of Mollosund, on the island
of Orust. The rocks are covered with KUpfiitk (p. 2451. 'I"he larger
86 Route li. MARSTRAND.
steamers now pass through the Kirkesund, the smaller through the
shallow Albrektssund . Among the frequent lighthouses and Leacons
we next observe the Hamnskdrs Fyr,nea.T the dangerous Paternoster
Skdr, to the N. of Marstraud.
Marstrand (Turist- Hotel; Stads-Hotel, hoth very fair; British
vice-consul, Mr. C. A. Christenson), a town with 1700 inhah., on
the E. side of a small island, is visited by about 2000 sea-bathers
annually. Handsome church of St. Mary, of 1460. The sea here is
generally calm, being protected by the island-belt, and the water is
very salt and bracing. The mild climate has gained for Marstrand
the name of the 'Swedish Madeira'. Pleasant waljis surround the
town, and in the Societets-Park is the Alphyddan, a good restaurant
(board from S'/o kr.). Opposite the town rises the fortress of Karl-
sten, once called the 'Gibraltar of the North' (view; fee). To the N.
is the Kod, with the bathing-place of Arvidsvik.
Farther on we traverse the Sillemnd and the Salofjord. To the
left opens the Elve fjord, into which the N. arm of the Gota-Elf
discharges. We then pass (left) the large island of Bjorko, a sea-
bathing resort. From the Kalf»und we enter the narrow Varholmens-
Sund, and beyond Elfsborg (once fortified) the steamboat reaches
the mouth of the Gota-Elf, which it ascends in 1/2 hr. more to —
Gotenburg (p. 287).
AVESTEKN NOKWAY.
(As FAR AS TrONDHJEM.
Eoute Page
15. From Christiansand to Stavanger by Sea 89
The Stavanger Fjord 93
a. The Lysefjord 93
h. The Sandsfjord, Hylsfjord, and Saudeljord ... 94
c. The Sandeidfjord 96
16. From Sand (Stavanger) by the Suldalsvand to Odde
on the Hardanger Fjord 96
17. From Stavanger to Bergen by Sea 99
18. The Hardanger Fjord 101
a. Western Hardanger Fjord, to the Mauranger Fjord 102
Excursions from Sundal. Passage of the Folgefond . . 10!
b. Central Hardanger Fjord, to Eide on the East. . 104
Excursions from Jondal, Norheimsund, and JETstensjel . . 105
c. The Serfjord 106
Excursions frcim Odde 109
d. The Eidfjord Ill
Excursions from Vik i Eidfjord 112
Excursions from Vlvik 114
19. Bergen 115
'20. From Bergen via Vossevangen to the Hardanger Fjord,
or to Gudvangen on the Sognefjord 123
From Trengereid to Aadland and Norheimsnnd .... 121
Excursions from Vossevargen 126
21. The Sognefjord 130
a. Western Sognefjord, to Balholm, at the mouth of
the Fjjerlandsfjord 131
From Balholm to Sande i Hdmedal 131
From Ulvestad to (lr0ning 131
From F.iserland via, the Veitcstrandsskar to Nordre Nfrs 135
From Fja-rland over the Jostedalsbree to Jolster . . . 135
b. From Balholm to Gudvangen. Aurlandsfjord and
Nserefjord 135
From Sogndal to Solvorn; to Fjffrland 136. 137
Upper Aurlandsfjord and Flaamsdal Road 139
From .\urland to T^njum in the Lardal 139
c. From Balholm or from Gudvangen to Lierdalseren 140
From Amble to Sogndal 140
d. Aardalsfjord and Lysterfjord 141
From Siilvorn to Hillestad 142
Friim ililjeatad to \ordre Xas. Ausledalsbrse .... 142
From Mariljieren to Sogndal 143
From Skjolden to the M0rkereidsdal. Fjcldsli-Sa ter . 144
From Marifj;eren to the Jostedal 144
From the Krondal over the Josledalsbrse to the ■Nordtjord 145
Fnm Faaberg over the Jostcdalsbra; to Hjelle. . . . 146
6. 7
88 WESTERN NORWAY.
Route Page
12. Jotunheim 146
a. From Aardal on the Sognefjord to Vetti. Vettisfos 149
b. From Vetti to Tyinsholmen 150
c. From Vetti through the Utladal , Gravdal , and
Leirdal to Rejshjem 151
d. From Skjolden to Fortun and Turtegr© 153
e. From Andvord to Kejshjem. The Galdhepig . , 156
f. From Rejshjem over the Sognefjeld to Turtegre . 158
g. From Skogstad or Nystuen to Lake Tyin and Tyins-
holmen or Eidsbugaren 160
h. From Fagernjes to the Hotel Jotunheim, and up
Lake Bygdin to Eidsbugaren 163
From l^yboden to Lake Gjende 165
i. From Tyinsholmen or Eidsbugaren to the Gjende-
bod on Lake Gjende 165
k. From Vinstrain the Gudbrandsdal to Gjendesheim 168
1. From the Gjendebod to Rejshjem 171
m. From Tyinsholmen or Eidsbugaren through the
Melkedal and over the Reiser to Turtegrer . . . 173
23. From Bergen to Aalesund and Molde by Sea . . , 175
24. From the Sognefjord to the Nordfjord 178
Dalsfjord. Viksvand. F^rdefjord 178, 179
From Mo to Gr0iiing and Sgknesand 180
From Klagegg to Aamot, and over the Jostedalsbrse to
Olden 181
25. The Nordfjord. Oldendal, Loendal, Strynsdal ... 182
From Nordfjordeid to Volden 183
Skjardal. Ujegnabrffi 184
From Loen via the Skaala to Opstryn 187
From Hjelle to the Sundal and by the Erdal over the Joste-
dalsbrse to I'aaberg in the Jostedal 189, 190
26. From the Nordfjord to Aalesund and Molde .... 190
a. From the Strynsvand via Grotlid to Marok . . . 190
From Grotlid to the Tafjord 192
b. From Faleide or Visntes via Grodaas to Hellesylt
anl Marok 194
Excursions from Grodaas 194
From Hellesylt to the Strynsvand 195
Excursions from Marok 196
c. From Hellesylt through the Norangdal and by the
Jerundfjord to Aalesund 197
Excursions fi-om Fibelslad-Haugen and from 0ie . . 197,198
From Bjerke to F0rde on the 0stefjord 199
d. From Marok and Hellesylt via Sjeholt to Aale-
sund or Molde 200
From Sylte over the Stegafjeld to the Romsdal .... 200
From Aalesund to 0rstenvik and the Jg'rundfjord , . 203
RYVINGEN. 75. Route. 89
Route Page
27. Molde and the Moldetjord 204
a. Excursion to the Romsdal 206
From Aandalsnws to the Eikisdalsvand '-iOS
From Ormeim and from Stuefloten to the Eikisdalsvand 209. 210
From Stuefloten to the Norddalsfjord 210
b. Excursion to the Eikisdal 210
From Eidsvaag to Eids0ren on the Snndalsfjord . . . 211
From AUarnffis to Aandalsnses in the Eumsdal .... 212
From J^veraas to the 0k.<endal 213
From Beitan to Ormeim 214
28. From Molde to Trondhjem. — a. Direct Sea Route . 214
b. By Land to Battenfjordseren and thence by Sea
■via Christianssund 216
c. By Land through the Sundal 216
From Opdol to the Inderdal 217
From Siindals0ren through the Lilledal to the Aursjc<
llytte and Holaaker in the Gudbrandsdal 217
d. By Land via Angvik and 0rkedal 219
29. Trondhjem and its Fjord 219
Railway from Trondhjem to] Storlien (Ostersund,
Stockholm) 226
Railway to Levanger. Stenkjaer, Snaasenvand, and
Fiskumfos. From Fiskum to Namsos 226
15. From Christiansand to Stavanger by Sea.
Excursions from Stavanger.
Tbe distance from Christiansand is officially stated at 32 Norwegiail
sea-miles (206 Kil. or 128 Engl. M.), but the course of the steamer is con-
siderably longer. The distances given below are given in Norwegian sea
or nautical miles (S.M. ; 1 S.M. = about 4 Engl. M.) from station to sta-
tion. Steamboats, of different companies , ply daily in 17-20 hrs. (fares
13 kr. bo 0., 8 kr. ; to Bergen, 22 kr., 13 kr. 25 (».). As the voyage is
often rough, particularly between Ekersund and Stavanger, many trav-
ellers take their passage to Ekersund only (11 hrs. from Christiansand),
and go thence to Stavanger by railway.
The Voyage by the Large Steamers presents few attractions, as the
coast is imperfectly seen from the steamboat; but the entrance to theFlekke-
fjord and some other points are striking. The vessel's course is at places
protected by islands (Skjar), but is often entirely in the open sea, par-
ticularly ofl" Cape Lindesnres, on the coast of Listerland, and near Jsederen.
The small Local Steamers are much slower and call at many unimportant
stations, but they afford a good view of the interesting formations of the
coast. The fjords are continued inland by narrow and deep valleys, gradu-
ally rising towards the bleak and barren tablelands (Fjeldvidder) of the
interior. These valleys are usually watered by rivers which frequently
expand into lakes, and their inhabitants, the Oplands/olk , are mostly
engaged in cattle-rearing. Each valley forms a little world of its own,
with its own peculiar character, dialect, and customs. The Kystfolk, or
dwellers on the coast, are much engaged in the export of mackerel and
lobsters to England.
Christiansand, see p. 2. — The first steamboat -station is
(21/2 hrs.) Maiidal. On Ryvingen, an outlying islet about 41/2 M. to
90 Route 15. EKERSUND. From Christiansand
the S., wliicli is the lirst land sighted as we approach Norway from
the S., is a lighthouse, with a light equal to 34 million candles.
6 S.M. Mandal (Grand Hotel, very fair; British vice-consul and
Lloyd's agent, Mr. Andorsen), the southernmost town in Norway,
with 3900 inliab., consists of Mandal, Malme, and Kleven (with
the harbour), and is situated partly on rocky islands, at the mouth
of the Mandals-Elv. Ad. Tidemand (pp. 14, 15) is a native of Mandal.
— A pleasant excursion may be taken up the valley of the Mandals-
Elv, via the (45 Kil.) Hotel Try(jstad, to the (100 Kil.) Aaserals
Turist-Hotel og Sanatorium (^iibO ft.; 60 beds; English spoken, pens,
from 31/2 k^O) ^'^ *^® Loyavand, which affords good trout-flshing.
Beyond Mandal we pass the mouth of the Vndals-Elv and the
conspicuous lighthouse on Cape Lindesnees (formerly Lindandisnms,
Engl. Naze, Dutch Ter Neuze), IGO ft. in height. This cape is the
southernmost point of tlie Norwegian mainland, and since 1650 has
been marked by a beacon-light (the earliest in Norway). The part of
Norway to the E. of a line drawn from Cape LindesnsBS to the pro-
montory of Stadt (p. 177) is called Sendenfjeldske Norge, that to
the W. Vestenfjeldske Norge. In 2^0 li''s. more we reach —
6 S.M. Farsund (Grand Hotel; British vice-consul, Mr. I. P.
Su7idt; Lloyd's agent, Mr. C. Reymert), a small seaport with 1700
inhab., almost entirely burned down in August, 1901, near the
mouth of a fjord running inland in three long ramifications, into
the easternmost of which falls the Lyngdals-Elv. — The steamboat
now steers towards the N., iiassing the lighthouse of Lister, and
then the mouth of the Feddefjord on the right. Steaming up the
Flekkefjord, we next call at (2'/2 hrs.) —
6 S.M. Flekkefjord (*Wahl's Hotel; British vice-consul and
Lloyd's agent, Mr. J. P. M. Eyde), a prettily situated seaport, with
'2000 inhab. and a good harbour. To the S.E. lies (10 Kil.) Fedde,
on the fjord of that name, to which the Kvinesdal descends from
the N.E. ; and to the N. runs the Siredal, with the Siredalsvand
(120 ft.), the outlet of which falls into the Lundevand (65 ft.),
a lake 14 M. long and 1015 ft. deep. Between these lakes runs the
still uncompleted railway-line from Flekkefjord to Ekersund.
After quitting the Flekkefjord the steamer passes the mouth of
the Sira, which empties itself into the sea in a cascade. For a
short distance the coast-cliffs are covered with grass.
Ragefjord (not always called at) is the station for Sogndal. In
3^/2 lirs. from Flekkefjord we reach —
8 S. M. Ekersund. — Salvesen's Hotel , 6-7 min. from the pier
and 4 min. from the railway-station, very fair; Gkand Hotel, Ja:deren,
in the market near the station, English spoken. — British vice-consul,
Mr. 0. M. Punlervold. — Lloyd's agent, Mr. T. H. Punterrold.
Ekersund or Egersund, a town with 3200 inhab. and a large por-
celain-factory, lies in a rocky region, at the S. end of Jccdercn, the
flat coast-district extending to Stavanger, which affords good fishing
to Stavanyer. STAVANGER. 15. Route. 91
and shooting. A fine survey of the environs is obtained from the
rocky hill marked by a pole on the top, reached in 25 min. by a
narrow street opposite the railway -station, and an ascent to the
right past the cemetery and a farm-house.
The Rail-\vay from Ekbrsuxd to Stavanger (76 Kil., in 21/2-
3'/4 hrs.; fares 4 kr., 2 kr. 48 0.), which traverses this coast-plain,
is unattractive, but in bad weather will be preferred by many trav-
ellers to the steamboat. The chief stations are: (38 Kil.) Narbe
(restaurant); (46 Kil.) Time, with a woollen - factory ; Sandnas
(61 Kil.l, a little manufacturing town (2600 inhab.), prettily situ-
ated at the S. end of the Stavanger Fjord ; and (76 Kil.) Stavanger.
The Steamroat on leaving Ekersund passes the Elcere, a large
island with a lofty iron lighthouse. The coast hero is unprotected
by i-lands, and the sea is often rough. The steamer affords a distant
view of the flat and dreary coast, enlivened with a few churches
and the lighthouses of Obrestad and Feiesten. To the N. of the
latter, and about 12 Kil. from Stavanger by road, is the church of
Sole, adjoining which are the ruins of the old church, said to date
from the 12tli cent., and now fitted up as a dwelling by Hr. Ben-
netter, a Norwegian artist. We steer past the Flatholm Fyr and
the mouth of the Ha fs fjord, where HaraldHaarfager (p. 99) gained
a decisive naval victory in 872, which gave him the sovereignty of
the whole country, and released him from a vow, taken ten years
previously, not to cut his hair until he should be king of all Nor-
way. To the left rises the lighthouse on the Hvitingse. A little
farther on, the vessel turns to the E., passes the Tungemes, a pro-
montory with a lighthouse, and (4 hrs. from Ekersund) reaches —
15S.M. Stavanger. — Hotels. 'Hotkl Victokia (kept hyO.Pei-sson),
at the stcamboat-pior, between Nedre and £fvre Holme-Gaden, a new build-
ing with lilt, electric light, lut-air healing, baths, and cafe'-re^taurant,
E. fnini 2, K. 2, D. 3, S. 2 kr. ; Gkand Hotel (same landlord), Valb.jerg-
Gaden, corner of Kedre Holme-Oaden (Pi. C, 2), with balhs, ainiilar
charge?; Hot. Xouustjeknex, Skager 29, with bath.-, R. lV->-2''-j, B. V/->,
IJ. 2, S. lV:;'<r. ; Vesx.*;s Hotel. — Confectioners & Cafes: Haar, Kirke-
Gaden 2t; Juell Kongs-Gaden 45, near the park.
Carriages at Carlsen's, I'rind.^ens-Gaden 10, etc. Carr. with one horse,
i-4 iiers., 1, 1':, or 2 kr., two horses 21/2 kr. per hr.
Shops. Goldsmith: IleUslreni, Nedre Holme-Gaden 22. Furrier: 01.
Jensen, Kirke-Gadeu 41. l-'i.-hing-tackle: /. Rasfnus.'ienii- Racine, 0steivaa,'X;
Wood-car in'.:, embroidery, etc. : Stavanger Uusjlidsfcreiiing, Kirke-GadenSO.
Post - Telegraph Office, jgTvre Holme-Gadeu (I'l. C, 2). — Banks:
Korges Bank, Ska;icn, beside the Tory (PI. C, 2, 3) ; Stavanger Privalbank,
near the Grand Ilnlel. — Tourist Agents: Bennett, J&vre Holme-Gaden 16;
F. Bei/er, on tlie steamboat-quay.
Sea Baths, at the Slrtfmslenen (PI. F, 2), to the E. of the town. —
Warm Baths, in Jorenholmen
British Vice-Consul, Mr. T. Waage. — TI. S. Commercial Agent, Mr.
('. F. Falck. — Lloyd's Agent, Mr. B. S. .V. Bergc.sen.
Stavanger, capital of the 'Amt' of that name, with 30,000
inliab., prettily situated on a branch of the Bulckenfjord, er Sta-
vanger Fjord, is the commercial centre of the Ihifgllce, the district
enclosing the fjord, and is also one of the oldest towns in Norway.
92 Route 75. STAVANGER. Fro»?i Christiansand
It dates from the 8th or 9th century, but as it has suffered fre-
quently from fires, it now presents quite a modern appearance.
Alex. L. Kjelland, the poet (b. 1849) is a native of the town and
was long its burgomaster. The town owns a trading fleet of con-
siderable size and contains many fish-canneries. Stavanger is the
first port of call for the steamers from Newcastle,' Hull, Rotterdam,
and Hamburg.
The quay of the large steamers (PI. B, 1) is at the mouth of
the harbour of Vaagen, which runs far inland, on the N.W. side
of the peninsula of Holmen. That of the fjord steamers is on the
N.E. side of Holmen ( Ryfylke-Bryggen ; PI. C, 1). The main street
of the Holmen quarter is Kirke-Gaden, which, passing the Vul-
hergtaarn (PI. C, 2; fine view from the topi, leaJs in 6 min. to the
cathedral. Opposite is the town-hall, with the Brandvagt (PI. C, 3),
where the key of the church is procured.
The * Cathedkal (PI. C, 3), the most interesting building in
Stavanger, and the finest church in Norway after the catliedral of
Trondhjem, was founded by Bishop Reinald, an English prelate,
at the end of the 11th cent, and dedicated to St. Sivithin {Suetoniu-'i,
Bishop of Winchester, d. 8(32). In 1272 it was burned down, but
was soon afterwards rebuilt in the Gothic style. After the Reform-
ation it was sadly disfigured, but since 1866 it has been restored
by the architect Von der Lippe of Bergen. The nave is separated
from the aisles by massive pillars, five on each side, in the peculiar
northern Romanesque style, which evidently belong to the original
edifice. The choir, which adjoins the nave without the intervention
of a transept, terminates in a square form, and has a very effective
E. window. Its rich Gothic style points to a date considerably sub-
sequent to the fire of 1272. The choir is flanked with four towers,
two at the E. end, and two very small ones at the W. end. The
aisles and the S. side of the choir are entered by remarkably fine
portals. Pulpit of 1658 and Gothic font in the interior.
To the S. is the Kongsgaard (PI. C, 3), with its old chapel
(^Munkekirke ; recently restored), once the residence of the bishop,
who was transferred to Christiansand in 1685, now the Latin-
skole. — To the E., by the Bredevand, is a small Park (PI. C, 3),
adjoined by Kongs-Oaden, a favourite promenade skirting the
lake. — To the S., near the railway-station (PL 0, 4), is the modern
Roman Catholic St. Svithunskirke, in the old Norse style. Farther on
are the Theatre and the Museum (PI. C, 4), the latter a conspicuous
light-coloured edifice on an eminence, containing antiquities, natural
history specimens, etc. Beside the museum are a Hospital, a Gym-
nasium, and other new buildings. — The St. Petrikirke (PI. D, 2)
was built by Von der Lippe in 1863-65. — Peders-Gaden, nearly
1/2 M. long, leads to the docks by the Spilderhaug (¥1. F, 2).
On the hill to the N.W. of the town lies the Bjergsted, or public
park, the upper part of which commands a fine view of Stavanger.
to SlavangcT. LYSEFJOKD. 15. Route. 9H
The park may be reached on foot in 20-25 min. via the Lokkevei
(PI. 15, 3, 2) and the Bjergstedvei (PL A, 1), or by rowing-boat
(20 0. per pers.) from the steamboat-quay in 10 minutes.
The finest views of the town, the fjord, and the surrounding
mountains are enjoyed from the * Vaalandshaug or Vaalandspiben
(330 ft.), with the water-works and a tower (rfmts.), '/.2 hr. from
the cathedral (past the museum and the Egenaes flre-station, then to
the left). — The -view from the tower on the UUenhaug (460 ft.),
1/2 hr. farther on. is more extensive but less picturesque. The inscrip-
tion on the tower refers to Harald Haarfagers victory in 872 (p. 91).
.An excursion may betaken to Sole, a village on the coast of Jiederen,
12 Kil. to the S.W. (p. 91). We may then return by Malde, to the N. of
Sole, along the Hafsfjord (p. 91).
The Stavanger Fjord.
The Bukkeiifjord or Stavanger Fjord, a broad basin to the N. of Sta-
vnn;;cr, is studded with numerous islands and has ramifications indenting
the land in every direction, some of them with smiling shores, others
enclosed by precipitous cliffs. The lower part of the slopes is generally
cultivated, while snow-fjelds appear in the background. The only inhabited
places are the islands and the deposits of ddbris at the foot of the clifls.
The scenery is little inferior to the finest on the Hardanger Fjord.
a. The Lysefjord.
Steamboat thrice a week from Stavanger to Hegtfjord, Fossand (2hrs.),
at the entrance to the fjord, and Lysebunden, at its E. end (there and back
in 10-12 hrs.). The Sunday excursion-steamers (2 kr.) are not recommended.
Hegsfjord or Hele (tolerable quarters), to which we may also
drive from rail. stat. Sandnses (24 Kil., in 3-4 hrs.), lies on i\iQHele-
fjord, nearly opposite the mouth of the Lysefjord, on which lies
Fossand, near the church of Ojese. A large moraine here led Es-
mark, the Norwegian savant, about the year 1826, to the conjecture
that the whole country was once covered with glaciers.
The *Lysefjord, the grandest fjord on the S.W. coast of Norway,
is an arm of the sea, 500-2000 yds. broad, 37 Kil. long, and 1400 ft.
deep, and enclosed by precipitous cliffs rising to a height of 3300 ft.
The fjord is almost uninhabited. Opposite HelesUd lies the island
of Holmen. At Eidene or Eiane are large granite-quarries. Farther
on we pass several curious rock-formations, among which may be
mentioned Pra-kestolen , or 'The Pulpit' (marked by the Stavanger
Gymnastic Society with four colossal F's) and the Seslrene, a low
mountain-spur with four peaks. Beyond the promontory of Mulen,
on the N. bank, lies the farm of Sangesand, with a large plantation
of cherry-trees (1 170 in number). The singular peak of Kaase Heia
is known as •Kj;crringeii", or the 'Woman'. Kallelid, on the S. bank,
also possesses qunrries. To the N. is the farm of Kalltsten, with
another large plantation of cherry-trees. To the S. lie Flerlid and
other gaards. At the head of the fjord (21/2 hrs. by steamer from
Fossand), among huge rocks, lies the station of Lysebunden (two
beds of the Stavanger tourists' club at the gaard Ncrehe). On the
94 R. 15. — Map, p. 92. HJ0SENFJORD. Excursions
Kjerag, a mountain towering above tlie head of the fjord on the S.
side, a curious phenomenon is sometimes ob?erved [last seen on
Nov. lOtb, 1897, after a cessation for many years). A crash like
thunder is heard, and immediately after it rays or jets of steam
shoot out horizontally from a kind of cavern in the face of the rock
at least 2000 ft. above the fjord.
From Lysebundcn passes lead to the N. W. to Aardal(see below ; one day) ;
E. to Langeid in the Sa'tersdiil (see p. 5); S. to Fitjeland (30 Kil.) or to
Aadnei-am, both in the Sire.dal (p. 90l; and S.W. over the Okelro-Fjeld
and through the Blaaatel-Dal to the Frafjord (40 Kil. ; see below). The
last passes Ekeskog,, with the beautiful Maanefos.
The Frafjord, as the S.E. end of the Helefjord is called (visited
four times weekly by the steamer), is also worth visiting. There
is a good salmon-stream here.
b. The Sandsfjord, Hylsfjord, and Saudefjord,
Steamboats of the Stavanger Steamship Co., starting 8 times weekly from
the Ryfylke Brygge, ply to Sand in 4-5'/2 hrs. (fare 3 kr. 6U0.); to Saude in
5'/2-7'/4 hrs. There are also numerous other opportunities of reaching these
points indirectly by chan'iing steamers at J?p1s0.
On leaving Stavanger we get a glimpse of the open sea to the
left, but it is soon sliut out by the islands. On tlie left lies the
Vndse. On the riglit are visible the mountains of the mainland,
with snowy peaks in the distance. In an hour we pass Strand and
Tou. Between these places opens Bjerheimskjaflen, a gorge through
which tlie Bjerheimsvdnd empties itself into the fjord.
From Tou a good road leads past the BJ0rheimsvand to the Tijsdalsvand,
on which we may row to the gaard Nedre Tysdal at the E. end; walk
thence over the hill to Tveit i Aardal, near Bergeland, and follow the
road down the Store Aa to Aardal (see below), abont 27 Kil. in all. From
Bergeland the lljnafosser may be visited.
The steamer usually steers N., past the Talge (left; with marble
quarries) and the Fogne (right ), to Juteberg or Judederget on the
Finde ■ then across an open part of the Stavanger Fjord, where we
get a glimpse of the Atlantic (left), to the Stjcernere; thence through
a narrow strait between that island and the Bjerge, and across the
Ncer strands fjord to Na:rstrand, a summer- resort; next across the
mouth of tlie Sandeidfjord and past the Folds to Jails^ (p. 95).
The steamers touching at Tou afterwards enter the Fisterfjord,
call at Fiskaaen, and steer up the Aardalsfjord to Aardalsosen or
Aardal, near the mouth of the Store Aa, which descends from the
0vre Tysdalsvand and other, smaller, lakes. (Thence to Tveit, near
Bergeland, 8 Kil., see above.) Observe the extensive moraines of
ancient glaciers. — Steaming down the fjord again and up the
Fisterfjord to the N., we pass between the mainland and the Rande
and reach Hjelmehmd, a pleasant village amidst orchards, which
has its name from a 'helmet'-shaped hill near the church.
"We next enter the^IIjesenfjord, with its wild and grand rocks,
somewhat resemblin.o; the Lysefjord, and call at Tytlandsvik or Tet-
landsvik on a bay of its S. bank, and at Valde on its N. bank.
from Stavanyer. SAUDE. Map, p. 92. - 15. li. 95
From the head of the IIjOTenfjord a rough and fatiguing path crosses
(he mountains in two days to Viken in the Sietersdal (p. 5).
Returning to the moutli of the fjord, we next steer N. to Knufs-
vik and then enter the mountainous Erfjord, where we call at Haa-
landsosen, and thence direct our course to the "VV. to Jaelse.
Jselse or Jelse (Inn), which the direct steamers from Stavanger
reach in 2'/2-i hrs. , and the indirect coasters in 5-10 hrs., is a con-
siderable village, with a church. Most of the steamers touch here
and exchange passengers for different destinations.
The vessel next steams up the Sandsfjord, which gradually nar-
rows and is enclosed by lofty rocks, with several waterfalls. The fjord
afterwards expands a little. In l'/2~'21irs. from Jjelse we reach —
Sand (Kaarlms, with view, II. 2, D. 2, B. or S. 1 Va kr., very fair),
a church-village at the mouth of the Logon, which forms the pretty
Sandsfos omin. above the village. Route to the Suldalsvand, and
thence to the Breifond Hotel and Odde, see p. 96.
The Sandsfjord now divides into the Hylsfjord to the N.E. and
the Saudefjord to the N.
Once a week the steamer enters the *Hylsfjord, at the grand
head of which lies the station of Hylen. Fine waterfalls descend
from the cliffs.
From Hylen to Vaage on the Suldalsvand, 1V2-2 hrs. by a good
bridle-path ascending the wild HyUdal, and crossing the "IlyUskar, where
we enjoy a splendid view of tlie lake below (comp. p. 97).
In 11/2-'^ I'is. from Sand the steamer reaches the head of the
Saudefjord, at which lie —
Saude or Sevde and Saudesjeen (*R<ibbes Hotel), pleasantly
situated, favourite resorts from Stavanger. Walks to the S.W. to
the pretty Svandal; to the N.E. to (2 hrs.) Birkelandsdalen , with
its 7.inc-raines ; to the E., along the fjord, to ( 35 min.) Ivdre Saude,
with the parish-church and a view of the Sendenaa-Fos, and thence
to (10 min.) the bridge across the stream descending from the
Aabeddl, which here forms the Hellandsfos.
From Sauuk thuodgii the Slettedal to Seljestao, I'/z day (road
under construction). Guide and provisions indispensable. — As far as the
(V4 l>r.) bridge at the Hellandsfos, see above. About 35 min. farther on
is the gaard of 0streiin. To the right rises the snow-clad Skavle Nut.
We now begin the ascent; bchiw, to the right, Hows the Stor-Elv. Several
fine views, as we look back on the Saudefjord. About halfway up we
reach the gaard of Fivelland, and in 2'/2 hrs. from Saude arrive at the
top, commanding a grand rocky landscape. As we once more descend, we
cnjiiy increasingly beautiful views of the Store Lid-Vand, with the Suldals-
fos, and of the whole basin ofAarlun, a green oasis, with houses, fields,
stream, lake, and waterfall, amidst a dreary chaos of rocks.
At Aartun, 4' 2 hrs. from Saude, we find tolerable nigbtquarters, but
poor fare. — The route now enters the Slettedal to the N., ,ind leads
through a monotonous landscape, passing numerous sa^fers and waterfalls.
After 5 hrs. from Aartun, or about halfway to Seljestad, the path begins
to ascend, and sonn cummands a fine retrospect of the snow-draped Kirke
Nut and the Slettedal. Farther on we see the Folgefond (p. 104), a little
to the left. We cross a wide tract of moorland with numerous ponds, and
gradually descend to the R0ldal road and in a few min. reacli (10 hrs.
from Aartun) Seljestad (p. 98).
96 K. 16. — Map, p. 92. OSEN. From Sand
c. The Sandeidfjord.
Steamer to Sandeid twice a week, in 7-8V2 hrs. (fare 2 Vr. 70 «(.)•
The steamers go either by Judeberget, Narslrand, and Jcelse
as just described, or take a longer route, touching at Tou^ Aardal,
and Hjelmeland.
From Jselse or from Naerstrand they steer N. into the Sandeid-
fjord, which presents no special attraction. Two lateral fjords di-
verging from it, the Yrkefjord to the W. and the Vindefjord to
the E. , form a complete cross, recalling the form of the Lake of
Lucerne. Some of the steamers call at stations on these fjords.
Vikedal, at the mouth of the Vindefjord, has a number of handsome
gaards.
At the head of the fjord lies Sandeid (Fru "Weidell's Inn),
whence a road leads N. to ^len (8 Kil, ; p. 100).
16. From Sand (Stavanger) by the Suldalsvand to
Odde on the Hardanger Fjord.
2-3 Days, according as the steamer on the Suldalsvand suits. 1st Day.
Road (fast skyds) to Osen, a drive of 2-2'/2 hrs. Steamer on the Suldals-
vand (once or twice daily in both directions) to Nces in 2'/4 hrs. (fare
2 kr.). Road (fast skyds) to Horre (Brei/ond Hotel) , in about 3 hrs. —
2nd Day. Road (fast skyds) to Odde, a drive of about 7 hrs.
Sand, see p. 95. — The Logen, whose valley the road ascends,
forms several waterfalls (Sandsfos, p. 95). Both the river and the
Suldalsvand, out of which it flows, abound in salmon and have
been leased for 40 years by English anglers, whose handsome resi-
dences are seen at various spots. The first section of the road is so
picturesque and at the same time so hilly, that travellers are re-
commended to walk on for about 3 M., leaving the carriage to follow.
To the left is the Skotifos. The road crosses the river about 10 Kil.
from Sand and remains tolerably level until we reach the Suldals-
vand. It then crosses a tributary stream, with a saw-mill, and
passes Vatshus. Fine view in front. The church of Suldnlen and
the gaard of Melius lie to the left. After a drive of 2-21/2 lirs. from
Sand we reach —
19 Kil. Osen or Suldalsosen (Hotel Suldal, Hotel Suldalsporten,
both very fair, English spoken, R., B., or S. IV2, D. 2 kr.), beauti-
fully situated on the right bank of the Logen, at its efflux from the
Suldalsvand. Opposite rises the curious pyramid of Siraabekollen.
The *Suldalsvand or Suledalsvand (steamer, see above), the S.
part of which is enclosed by high mountains, is 28 Kil. long, but
at first is not broader than a river. To the right lies the gaard of
Vik, to the left Vegge. To the left is Kolbeinslveit, where the road
ends ; to the right is Helgences. We then traverse the rocky defile of
* Suldalsporten, where the imposing cliff to the left rises to a height
of 330 ft. The lake now suddenly expands. In a bay to the left are
the large farms of Kvildal and 0iestad ; then Vorvik and —
to Odde. N.ES. Map.%pp.92,102. — 16. R. 97
VuiKje (good quarters; steamboat-station), with tlie Ilyls^kar ris-
ing above it (p. 95). We here enjoy a view of the^central reach of
the lake, there being five reaches in all. To the left, farther on,
lies Ldleid, on the hill. In front we obtain a good view of the cur-
iously rounded and polished promontory of Boshaugen and of the
mountains to the N. To the S.E. rise the snow-clad Kalle-Fjeld and
the long Kvenne-Heia. — The steamer's terminus is Nks, but three
days a week (and at other times if required) it goes on to (4 Kil.)
Rodldkvam (p. 6).
Nses or NcFsfldten (Hotel Brailandsdal, three houses belonging
to the same proprietor, English spoken, D. 21/2 kr.), which affords
a fine view of tire lake and the snow-clad mountains in the back-
ground, lies at the mouth of the Bratlands-Elv, at the beginning of
the road to R^ldal. Conveyances meet the steamers.
The road ascends the beautiful *Bratlandsdal , passing at first
through a grand gorge, with overhanging rocks and several water-
falls. Most travellers will find it preferable to walk as far as the
top of the ascent. Farther on the valley is less interesting. At the
gaard of Tliorncrs, about 5'/2 Kil. from Nffs, we cross to the left
bank of the Bratlands-Elv , and farther on we pass the gaards of
Bratlnnd. To the left is the lofty Flasefos. Beyond the gaard of
Qrehakke we cross the border betwixt the Stavanger Amt and
Sendre Bergenhus Amt. Farther on we pass HirgerUind, on the
slope of the Kaalaas, and traverse a narrow ravine, with a series of
rapids. We tlien cross the Hcegerlands-Bro to the riglit bank of the
stream. This part of the route shows. the most fantastic rock-form-
ations, due to the ceaseless energy of the river. The road now reaches
the narrow Ljonevand , passes the gaard Ljone, and crosses the
bridge of that name. Charming scenery. Above the small £funde/bs,
the outlet of the Reldalsvand, towers the Ljonehals, a huge cliff
worn smooth by the river.
At Batten or Botnen the road once more crosses the Eratlands-
Elv, here issuing from the R^ldalsvand (1'2'26 ft.), and skirts the
W. bank of the lake, which is enclosed by finely-shaped mountains.
Beyond the JIaare-Bro, spanning a small stream descending from the
hd't, the roads to Telemnrkcn and tlie Hardanger part company. [The
former skirts the lake, at the N. end of which appears Reldal (p. 42).]
On the Hardanger road, lOmin. farther on (3 hrs.' drive from Njes),
is the —
24 Kil. *Breifond Hotel (li. 2, B. IV2, D- 2V2, S. l''^ kr. ;
English spoken ; Engl. Ch. Service in July & Aug.), on the site of
the former skyds-station of Horre or Haarc. The hotel commands
a fine view of the lake and of the Haukelifjeld and lies within a
short walk (•/* ^'"'O ^^ t^^ Haarefos.
The Hardanger Road leaves the lake and ascends the Horre-
brcekkene in windings, which walkers may avoid by short-ciits (rather
Haiideker's Norway nnd Sweden. 8th Kdit. 7
98 R. 16. — Map, p. 10-2. SELJESTAD.
marshy except in dry weather). On the right are the precipices of the
Horreheia, on the left the Elgersheia. Looking back, we see the hroad
snow-fleld Bredfond or Breifond towering above the H^ldalsvand to
the S.E, At the top of the hill (3415 ft.), 8 Kil. (is/^hr.'s drive) from
the Breifond Hotel, the road remains tolerably level for some distance
and crosses a dreary solitude with several ponds. We soon obtain a
view of the snowy Folgefond (p. 104). The road gradually descends
the Gorssvingane, and the **View increases in magnificence. Far
below us lies the narrow Oorsboten, flanked by steep hills, with the
sombre Gorsvand, at the lower end of which is a waterfall. Beyond
stretches the wide valley of Odde, with the long snow-flelds of the
Folgefond as a background to the left, one of the grandest and most
characteristic mountain-scenes in Norway. The old bridle-path and
the streamlet which lower down becomes the Hedsten-Elv are seen
from time to time by the side of the Gorssvingane. At the lower end
of the Gorsvand (2815 ft.) is a kind of rocky gateway, where the
view becomes unimpeded. Thence we proceed in zigzags , past
Svaagen and the Hedstensnut, to the green and treeless plateau on
which lies —
21 Kil. (from Breifond Hotel; pay for 24; 22 Kil. from Reldal;
pay for 28) Seljestad (2040 ft. ; Seljestad's Hotel, R. 2, B. H/o,
D. 2, S. 1^2 l^r. ; Folgefon Hotel, a little above the road, both clean).
Those who have a day to spare may pay a visit to a herd of reindeer,
pastured a few hours from here, belonging to the villagers.
The road from this point to Odde repays even pedestrians (4^/2-
5 hrs. ; a drive of 21/2 hrs.). It proceeds across the plateau and
crosses two arms of the stream. Stunted birches and firs begin to
appear. A projecting rock a few paces to the left of the road, about
40 min. walk from Seljestad and beyond the 20th kilomatre-stone
'fra Odde', affords an attractive view of the Hesteklevfos. The road
now descends in curves. On the right lies the small Hotel Vdsigten
(R. li/o, B. orS. IV4, I>- 21/4 kr.; English spoken). Just above
this a footpath leads to the left to a point marked by an iron signal,
from which we have an admirable view of the wild and wooded
gorge of *Seljestadjuvet, through which the road threads its way.
Lower down the road crosses to the left bank of the stream (contin-
uous picturesque views). About 10 min. farther on a narrow road
descends to the left through wood to the gaard of Jesendal and on to
Fjfflre (p. 100). The similar road 6 min. beyond the next bridge
ascends to the right to the gaard of Skard ; and farther on diverges
the road to the gaards on the height to the left. About 10 min. farther
on the road passes below the *Espelandsfos, on the left, and the *Lote-
fos, on the right. On an eminence to the right is the inn (p. 110).
From this point to Odde is a drive of 2 hrs. or a walk of fully 3 hrs.
23 Kil. (pay for 26) Odde (p. 108).
99
17. From Stavanger to Bergen by Sea.
The direct distance by water from Stavanger to Bergen is 25 Norwegian
gea-miles (100 Engl. M.), but the course taken by the steamers is consid-
erably longer. In the fullowing route the distances are given in sea-miles
from station to station. — Mail SiEAMiiRS (Christiania-Bergen; Com. 218)
leave Stavanger (and Bergen) every evening, taking 10-11 hrs. for the
trip and calling at Kopervik and Havgesund. The Local Steamers, also
starting every evening, take one hour more and touch at Ferresi'ik, Kopervik,
Haugesund, Mostcr/iavii, and Lervik, There are also other lines of slower
steamers (Com. 224, 278).
Nearly the whole voyage by all these steamers is in smooth water,
protected by islands, except for a short distance between Stavanger and
Kopervik, and between Haugesund and Langevaag. As the fine scenery
of the Hardanger Fjord (R. 18) does not begin till the Her0 and the Ter0
are approached, the traveller loses little by going thus far at night.
Stavanger, see p. 91. The vessel steers N.W. ; on the left are
the Duse-Fyr and Tungencts-Fyr on the Randeberg ; to the right
the Hundvaage, the Mostere, the Klostere with the ruined Vlsten-
kloster, and beyond it the Rennese and other islands. Before en-
tering the open Bukkenfjord we observe on the left the lofty light-
house on the Hvitingse, and to the N.W. the lighthouse of Falnas
(Skudesncts). We pass on the left the small seaport (1200 inhab.)
of Skudesnwshavn, with its lighthouse, at the S. end of the Karme.
The steamer now enters the Karmsund. The first station at which
the smaller steamers usually stop is Feirresvik, on the Bukkene.
6 S.M. Kopervik, or Kobbervik (Mad. Petersen's Inn), with 1000
inhab., on the Karmef, a large and populous island, is the chief
centre of the herring-fishery. The island is nearly flat, and partly
cultivated, but consists chiefly of moor, marsh, and poor pasture
land, and is almost destitute of trees. It contains numerous bar-
rows, or ancient burial-places, especially near the N. end, some of
which have yielded valuable relics. The climate, cool in summer,
mild and humid in winter, is exceptionally healthy, the average
death-rate being only 12 per thousand. — About 16 Kil. to the W.
of the Karme lies the small and solitary island of Vtsire, with a
chapel and a lighthouse, near which herrings usually abound.
On the left, about 7 Kil. beyond Kopervik, is the old church
of Augvaldsnces, adjoining which, and leaning towards it, is an old
'bautasten', 26 ft. in height, known as '■Jomfru Marias SynaaV
(the Virgin Mary's Needle). Tradition says that when this pillar
falls against the church the world will come to an end. — Farther
to the N., on the opposite side of the 'Sund', are five similar
stones, the 'Fiye Foolish Virgins'. At the end of the Karmsund,
on the mainland, lies —
2 S.M. Haugesund (Grand Hotel; Jonassen's Hotel, plain but
good, 1{. 2, B. 1 kr. ; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. B. A. Stolt-Nielsen), or
Karmsund, with 7900 iuhab., to the N. of which rises the Haralds-
haug, where the supposed tombstone of Harald Haarfager(d. 933)
is pointed out. On this spot rises the Haralds-Stette, an obelisk of
red granite, r)5 ft. in height, on a square pedestal, around which
7*
KX) 17. Route. LEHVIK. From Slavanyer
arc placed stones, 8 ft. liigli, representing the districts into whicli
Norway was formerly divided. It was erected in 1872, on the thou-
sandth anniversary of Harald's famous victory (p. 91). — A road
leads from Haugesund to the E. to (48 Kil.) 0len (see helow).
From Haugesund tlie larger steamers proceed direct to Bergen
(sometimes touching at Lervik), passing either between the Bem-
mele and the Storde or between the Storde and the Tysnase. —
To the N. of Haugesund is an unprotected part of the coast, call-
ed Sletten, which the steamers pass in about an hour. Near the
N. end of this tract is Lyngholmen, where some of the steamers
call, the first station in Bergens-Stift. To the W. is the Ryvardens-
Fyr on a rocky island. We now enter the Bemmelfjord, one of the
narrow inlets of the Hardanger (p. 101), passing the Bemmele on
the left, which contains gold-mines of little value, and on which rises
/S/sr£»en(1540ft.), one of the 'towers' of Bergen. This district is call-
ed the Send- norland^ the natives Seringer. Grand mountains in the
background. Some of the steamers next touch at Tjernagel, on
the mainland, others at Langevaag, on the Bemmele, opposite.
6 S.M. Mosterhavn, on the Mostere, boasts of a church built
by Olaf Tryggvason (995-1000), the oldest in Norway.
2 S.M. Lervik (DahVs Hotel), or Leirvik, where passengers to
and from 01en or Fjsere (see below) change steamers, lies at the S.
end of the Storde, one of the largest of the islands at the entrance
to the Hardanger. The wooded Halsene, to the E., contains remains
of a Benedictine monastery, founded probably in 1164, and several
barrows. — Comp. annexed Map.
To the S. of Lervik opens the Aal/Jord, with the villages ot Eekences
and Vikevik. To the E. is the Skoiieviksfjord, on which a steamer plies.
On the J0len/Jord, a S. arm of the Skoneviksfjord , lies 01en ("Inn,
skyds-station), 8 Kil. from Sandeid (p. 96), and visited 6 times weekly by
steamer. Several steamers call at Etne, at the head of the Etne-Pollen,
whence a mountain-path leads direct to Seljeslad (p. 98), a very fatiguing
walk of 11-12 hrs. (about 50 Kil.).
Eastwards from the Skoneviksfjord runs the -i^aire^'ord (steamer once
a week only), with the stations Aakre and (at the head of the fjord) Fjaere
(tolerable quarters). From Fjaere a narrfiw road, practicable for one-
horse vehicles, crosses the mountains, amidst imposing scenery, via Rulle-
stad (tolerable quarters ; in the neighbourhood are some remarkable 'gianfs
cauldrons'; p. 294) and Vinterlun to (IS Kil.) Oaavd Jesendal on the road to
Odde (p. 98; carriage from FJEere to the Lotefos in 4 hrs.). Comp. the
3Iap, p. 102.
Beyond Lervik the direct steamer traverses the Bemmelfjord and
then the Klosterfjord, named after the monastery on the Halsene.
2 S.M. Sunde, on the E. side' of the Husncrsfjord, on the pen-
insula of Husnais.
Her«r , a small island opposite Ilelvik , where passengers for
the Hardanger sometimes change boats (9^/2 ^^s. from Stavanger,
43/4 hrs. from Bergen).
The scenery now becomes more interesting; the mountains are
higher and less barren; on every side the eye is met with a pro-
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to lier-jen. aOI)0SUND. 17. Route. K*l
fusion of rocks, islands, promontories, and wooded bills, enlivened
with bright-looking hamlets nestling in sheltered creeks.
3 S.M. ffrom Sunde) Tere, a little island and village near the
N. coast of the tjord. Beautiful scenery* to tbe \V. the large island
of Tysnaese; to the E. appears tbe huge snow-mantle of the Folge-
fond (p. 104), one of the finest distant views of wbich is obtained
from this point. To tbe E., opposite Tere, is tbe peninsula oiStonga-
ncEs, producing a greenish slate with veins of auriferous quartz.
Tbe district of Nord-Horland begins here. The steamer threads
theLoksund. a narrow strait between tbe mainland and tbe Tysncese,
an island attractive to artists and anglers. Tbe next station, Ein-
ingeviken, lies on tbe Tysnaese, at the N. end of tbe strait. Godesund
(*GuUaksens Inn, pens. 3^/2-i kr., with sea-baths and boats for
hire), on a small island to the N. of the Tysnaesc, is recommended
for a stay. Vaage, near tbe Tysnaskirke, also lies on tbe Tysnaese.
Tbe Bjernefjord and tbe Korsfjord are next traversed. From
tbe latter, by which the Newcastle steamers enter tbe Skjsrgaard,
we have a glimpse of the open sea, to the W. On tbe left our
course as far as Bergen is bounded by tbe island of Store Sartore.
We obtain our last view of the Folgefond (to tbe W.) , just S.
of the little island of Trcele in tbe Korsfjord. To the rigbt is the
Lysefjord, with the charming island of Lyse (pleasant day's excur-
sion from Bergen, via Nestun, p. 123), and the ruined Lysekloster
(dating from 1146) on its E. bank. Tbe steamer then rounds the
peninsula of Korsnas and passes tlie mouth of the Fanefjord. The
Levstakken near Bergen (p. 123) now comes into sight to tbe N.
Beyond the island of Bjalkere (left) we call at Bukken, on an island
close to the mainland (to the right), and then steam past tbe island
of Bj0T0 (left). On tbe mainland sbore of tbe Vatlestremmen, a
strait witb a strong current to the N.E. of Bjcrre, lies Hakonshellen.
Numerous lighthouses now appear. To the left lies the LUle Sartore,
with tbe station of Bralholmen. Our course turns N.W. into the
By fjord, with tbe mountainous Aske (p. 123) on tbe left. Tbe
promontory of Kvarven, on tbe mainland, to the rigbt, witb exten-
sive petroleum-deposits, is the N. spur of tbe Lyderborn (p. 117).
17 S..M. (from Haugsund; 11 from Tere) Bergen, see p. 115.
18. The Hardanger Fjord.
From S/avantjer to Odde on the lldrdaiujer Fjord the overland ruule
already described (R. 16) is tlie most interesting-. Or we mav 'ni direct bv
Steamboat, twice weekly (Sun. and Tliurs.) in 22 hrs. (fare" 13 kr. 30 0.).
Passengers by the Thurs. steamer change at Here (p. 102) into the steamer
from Bergen to Odde. Another alternative is aflbrded once a week by
the Bergensk-Nordenfjelske Touristskib.
From Bergen to the Hardanger Fjord: Stkamboats to Eide dailv in
9V2-15 hrs. (fare 8 kr. CO^.); to Odde in I2V2-I9V2 hrs. (fare lO'/z kr.). —
The catering on these boats is very fair: comp. p. six.
From Bergen via Vo.isevangen (raihvay) to F.ide, see I!. 20.
From Telemarken via JJaiikeli and liaidal to Odde, see K. b.
102 Route IS. ROSENDAL. Hcmlanyer
The *Hardanger Fjord is the hest-known of the Norwegian
fjords, and the beauty of its scenery has been celebrated from very
early times. Wergeland calls it ^det underdejlige Hardanger , the
'wondrous-beautiful'. It 'certainly presents a most characteristic
example of peculiarly Norwegian scenery, with the barren ice-clad
fjelds, the broad surface of the fjord, and the narrow strip of fertile
and thickly -peopled land between them. To other attractions
must be added some of the finest waterfalls in Norway, all easily
accessible to good walkers. Yet it cannot be denied that the
Hardanger has formidable rivals in beauty in some of the N. fjords
which have recently grown in favour with travellers, such as the
Fjajrlandsfjord (p. 134), the Nordfjord (p. 182), and the Jarund-
fjord (p. 199). — The people (Haranger or Hdringer) and their
national characteristics will interest many travellers. The bridal
crowns and gold and silver trinkets (such as the Selje, or Sylgja,
a kind of brooch or buckle) are curious, and the embroidery, cover-
lids (Siumretapper), and carpets (Tapper) manufactured in this
district are much sought for. The costumes are seen to advantage
only on a Sunday morning before or after divine service. The
women wear the 'Skaut', a kind of cap of white linen with stripes,
and sometimes a picturesque red bodice, embroidered with beads.
The national music and the Hardanger violin (Fele), in which steel
strings are combined with the gut-strings to increase the sound,
are also curious and interesting.
Our description follows the course of the Hardanger-Send-
horland Steamboats, which, however, call at different stations on
different trips and alter their routes accordingly. The distances are
given in Norwegian nautical miles (comp. p. 89).
a. The Western Hardanger Fjord, to the Manranger Fjord,
Steamer from Bergen td Stindal thrice a week in 6-9 hrs. (6 kr. 10 0.).
The other steamers do not call at Sundal, but keep nearer the K. bank
of the fjord.
At the entrance to the Kvindherreds-Fjord , which forms the
avenue to the Inner Hardanger, lie on the N. and S. sides respect-
ively the islands of Terei (10 S.M. from Bergen) and Here (11 S.M.
from Bergen; p. 100). The steamboat- station on Here is named
Heresund (change of boats, see p. 101).
Beyond Here the vessel steers into the Stor-Sund, a strait be-
tween the islands of Skorpen and Snilstveit on one side and the
mainland on the other. On this strait are the stations Vskedal,
overtopped by the Englefjeld and the Kjeldhaug, and Demelsviken
or Dimmelsviken (inn), between the dark Solfjeld on the S. and
the Skinnebergs- Nut on the E., adjoined by the Malmanger-Nut.
Then —
2V2 S.M. (from Tere^'Roaend&l ( Hotel Rosendcd), near the tower-
less church of Kvindherred , with the park and chateau (built in
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Fjord. SUNDAL. 18. Route. 103
1678) of the Barons Uoff-Kosenkrone. The chateau contains a statue
of the Countess Bariatinska by Tborvaldsen, and a few paintings. —
To the E. towers the conspicuous Melderskin (4680 ft.), which may
he ascended in 6 hrs.: a fair path through the Melsdal to the Midt-
siTter and the Myrdalsvand, beyond which the ascent is rather steep.
Grand view of the Folgefond and of the fjord down to the open sea.
Some of the steamers now cross to the stations Gjermundshavn
and Mundhebn on the N. bank (see Map, p. 100), or to the station
Skjelnces (quarters at the Landhandlers) in the large Varaldse.
Thence to Bakke, Jondal, etc., see p. 104. — Between the Varaldse
and the mainland to the E. the fjord is called Sildefjord. The
steamer touches at the church oi ^'Ences, at the mouth of the lEnces-
dal, over which a serrated ridge with the snow-lields and glaciers
of the Folgefond (p. 104) rises as background.
At iEnaes opens the *Mauranger Fjord, on which a steamboat
plies eastwards thrice a week and westwards twice a week ; on other
days it may be reached by boat-skyds from Skjelnaes (about 18 Kil.
from Sundal, 3-3'/2 lirs.' row). To the right of the entrance to this
fjord, which is flanked with lofty cliffs, is the Furebergsfos, a broad
•white waterfall. The steamboat-station is —
3 SM.SunAa.1 (Hotel Sundal, very fair, R. IVi, B. 11/4, D.
13/4-2, S. IV2 l^r-)) "6^'^ t^s gaard of Bondhus, the starting-point
for a visit to the Folgefond and its beautiful glacier, the Bond-
husbrae. Samson Olsen Sundal is a competent guide.
A Visit to the Bondhusbr.e takes 372 'irs. on foot, there and
back. A narrow cart-track (stolkjsrre 3, for 2 pers. 4 kr.) ascends
the valley of Sundal, enclosed by high mountains, on the left bank
of the stream, crossing remains of old moraines, to the (8/4 hr.)
liondhusvand (625 ft.). Splendid view of the lake, with its protrud-
ing rocky islets, and of the Bondhusbrje, rising over the grass-grown
moraine on the S. bank. Several cascades precipitate themselves from
the heights to the right and left. A boat lies ready to convey us to
(20 min.) the other end (rowed by the guide brought from Sundal,
1 kr. 60 0.). Hence we ascend a footpath over the moraine, which
is marshy at places antl passes a saeter (occupied only till the middle
of July), to (25 min.) the *Bondhu8br8e. The finest view of the
glacier and the foaming lirufos (left) is obtained from the highest
point of the moraine, but the traveller should go on to the left to
the glacier-stream, which issues from a blue ice-cavern.
The Passage oi- the Folgefond is a fine and not too difflciilt
expedition (to Odde IOI/2-II hrs.; guide 8, for 2 pers. 10, for
4 pers. 12 kr. ; riding practicable to the top of the pass, horse 12 kr. ;
early starters are in shade during the ascent; provisions necessary).
About '/a hr. from Sundal a bridle-path diverges to the left from
the above-described route to the Bondhusbrae, descends and crosses
the glacier-brook by a bridge, and traverses tneadows to the foot of
the height on the other side. We ascend in windings, passing a
104 R. 18.— Map, p. 102. BAKKE. Hardanger
tablet in commemoration of the construction of the path by the
German 'Nordlands-Verein' in 1890. In about 2i/o hrs. from Sundal
we reach the Oarshammer-Sater (about 2300 ft.), where a bottle of
beer may be obtained (50 0.). Farther on we cross the outflow of a
small lake and traverse a stretch of marshy ground. We then ascend
by a fair path to the right, between boulders. In about II/2 hr. the
red-roofed hut of Breidablik comes Into sight. We next descend,
cross the broad outflow (stepping-stones) of an ice-bound lake to our
left, and re-ascend, over a large snow-lield, to (i/ohr.) the Breida-
hlik Tourist Hut (ca. 4430 ft.), on the Bottenhorgen, where beer
and other refreshments may be obtained. This commands an ex-
tensive survey of the huge *Folgefond ('fond' or 'fonn', a field of
snow), which covers a plateau about 36 Kil. long and 6-15 Kil.
broad, without any distinct peak or summit. This enormous mass
of snow and ice, which sends offshoots down the valleys in all direc-
tions, may be crossed without difficulty. Travellers with horses
find sledges waiting for them at the hut, but this 'summer sleighing'
is but an indifferent pastime and moreover is not much quicker
than walking. The ascent over the gradual snowy incline to the
top (5425 ft.) takes about 31/2 hrs.; here we obtain a view of the
Hardanger Vidda. A new bridle-path descends on the E. side,
passing the Tokheimsnuter and crossing some steep snow-slopes, to
the Tokheimsdal. To Tokheim we take about 2 hrs., and Odde is
1/2 hr. farther on (see p. 108).
From Gjerde, on the j(^stre PoUen or E. arm of the Mauranger Fjord
(boat from Sundal in 1/4 hr., 50 0.), a bridle-path ascends to the Folgefond
and crosses it, passing the hut in the Urebotn and the Hundser (5:370 It.),
and afterwards descending rapidly to Tokheim (p. lOi; guide, Gotskalk
A. Gjerde, prices as p. 10b). As from Sundal, travellers may ride to the
mnrgin of the glacier and cross the snow in sleighs.
b. The Central Hardanger Fjord, to Eide on the East.
Steamer from Sundal to Eide twice a week (Tues. & Frid.) in 4-4'/2 hrs.
(fare 3 kr. 70 0.). The other steamers do not call at Sundal ; from Bergen
to Eide daily, in 9-14 hrs. (fare 8 kr. 60 0.).
On leaving the Mauranger Fjord the steamer steers direct to
the N. Fine retrospect of the peaks, snow-fields, and glaciers above
the /Enii'sddl (p. 103). To the Tightlie Aarsmid a.ndAarink, the latter
with a copious waterfall. We then cross the Hisfjord to Vikingnaes
(p. 105). — The other steamers, after calling at Mundheim or
Skjelnffis (p. 103), touch at —
5 S.M. (from Tere')Bakke {Balike Hotel, very fair), on the Strande-
barmsbugt, a bay of the Hisfjord. Bakke is beautifully situated,
with an extensive view of the Folgefond to the S.E., the snow-clad.
Tveite Kviting (4190 ft.) to the N.W., and the Tervik-Nut (35'20 ft.)
to the N.E. At the head of the bay, 3 Kil. to the N., is the church
of Strandebarm ; and farther on, near the hamlet of Fosse, on the
E. bank, is a waterfall, 490 ft. in height (130 ft. in one sheer leap),
which, however, loses mucli of its effect in dry weather.
Fjord. NORHEIMSUND. Map. p. 102. — 18. li. 105
From Strandebarm a path leads by the gaards of Haukaas and Sol-
hjerg and the Torahella sseter to (4-5 hrs.) Netland in the Steinsdal (see
below). But the route along the bank of the fjord to Sandven, though
longer, is more attractive.
1 S. M. Vikingnses {* Hotel- Pension ViMngnas, R. I-IV2, B. I1/4,
dej. 11/2, D. 2, pens. 5-7 kr. ; Engl. Ch. Service in .July & Aug. ),
frequented almost exclusively by the English, is pleasantly situated
on the S. spur of the wooded Ljenas-Aas. It commands a line view
of the MyrdaUfos to the S. and affords opportunity for many pretty
walks (to Norheimsund, see below). — Then —
Jondal (Utncs Inn), on the E. bank, noted for its 'Hardanger
boats'. The fjord contracts.
From Jondal (guide, Nils Vig) a road ascends the Kondal by (V4 hr.)
Birkeland to (3 hrs.) Guard Flatebe (1100 ft.), grandly situated. We may
then go to the S. to the Jondalsbrce, near the Dravlevand and Jeklevand ; or
to the E. to the Serfjord (p. 107). The latter route (8-10 hrs.; guide necessary)
leads from Flateb0 to the N.E. to SJnscet, ascends steeply and describes
a wide bend towards the N., turns to the E., skirts the Thorsnut (5164 ft.),
and passes the Saxaklep. The highest point of the route is 4510 ft. above
the fjord. Then a steep descent to the Reisceter (1080 ft.) and thence to
Bleie (Naae, p. 107).
Beyond Jondal the steamer passes several waterfalls, leaving
Jonances on the right, and enters the Ytre Sarnlen- Fjord, touching
3it Skuteviken once a week. Beautiful scenery. The steamer rounds
the Axencrs on the W. side, passes the church of Viker, and enters
the Norheimsund, on which lies —
3 S.M. Norheimsund ot Sandven (^Sandven' s Hotel, comfortable;
Iversen's Hotel; Engl. Ch. Serv. in the season), charmingly situ-
ated and suitable for some stay. Admirable view of the Folgefond,
with a succession of intervening mountains. — To the W. a road
ascends the Steinsdal; after '/2 hr. we cross a bridge on the right
in order to visit the 0fsthus (0verste Has) Fos, a waterfall 100 ft.
high, witli a path passing behind it (50 0.). — The Torenut (about
.3430 ft.), to the N., is easily ascended by the Sjau-Sater in 5 hrs.
FuoM NuRHKiMsuND TO ViKiNGN.T.s (scc abovc), 4Vr5 hrs. This is a
ple;i8ant excursion, hut is somewhat fatiguing owing to the fact that the
middle portion of the road has not yet been completed. The road leads
to Viktir and (10 Kil.) Axeiim.'', whence a footpath goes on to (1 hr.) the
small lake o( Lvsen. The rest of the route is partly road and partly path.
From Noeiieimsdnd to Trengereid on the Voss Railway, I'/z day.
From the Steinsdal, through which a new road is being made, we proceed,
with guide, in 5'/2-0 hrs., to Gaard Eikedal or Egedal (1030 ft.); then a
precipitous descent past the £ikedals/os, 285 ft. in height to the beautiful
Fi'elandsdal i Samnamjer. in which , 9-10 hrs. from Norheimsund, we
reach Tesse (inn), on the Aadlandsfjord. From T^sse wc cross by boat
to (4 Kil.) Aadland (p. 124), whence a skyds-road leads to Trengereid.
Beyond Norheimsund we have a continuous view of tlie edge of
the Folgefond, to the S. The steamer touches at —
0stens«r (^Hotcl 0stens0, small but good), prettily situated on
the bay of that name.
A carriage-road crosses the promontory to the E. of jS'stensef to (i'/a hr.)
Skaare, on tlic narrow and picturesque Fiksensund, which runs inland
for 11 Kil. from its mouth at Stenst«( (p. 106). At the head of the Fiksen-
sund, reached by rowing-boat from Skaare in P/t hr., lies Gaard Botnen
106 R. 18.-^- Map. p. W^. EIDE. Hardanger
(Flalehe's Hotel., very fair), whence a steep path (2-3 hrs/walk) leads to the
Hamlegre Hotel (p. 125), at the S. end of tbe Hamlegrevand. — From Bot-
NEN TO BoLKEN, a fall day'8 walk. . A tolerable bridle-path, very steep at
places, ascends the Flalebeigjel (Gjel. 'rocky ravine') t(i the (5 Kil.) Lelcdal
sseter (whence we may ascend the Flaiebefjeld or Lekedalsnuten., 34t'0 ft.,
a fine point of view; 2-3 hrs. there and back). From the sreter the path
ascends to the watershed (1970 ft.), and then descends a little to (G Kil.)
Hcdnabevg (two 'sEeter-hotels'), at the N.E. end (ii X^ie, Hamlegrevand (1940 ft.;
said fo aff( rd good fishing). We now descend by the course of the river
issuing from the Thorfinvand to (6 Kil.) Guard Skjeldal (1075 ft.). From
this point a good road leads to (5 Kil.) Grimesiad, at the W. end of the
Vangsvand, and thence via Liland to Bolken (p. 125).
Twice a week the steamer, after leaving 0stensje', steers to the
N. of tlie Kvamse and past the mouth of tlie Filisensund (touching
on one voyage at Stenste^ into the Indre Samlen-FJord. Here, near
the station of Aalvik, is the picturesque Melaanfos. Fine view of
the Samlehovd (see below), to the S. From Aalvik we then sail
direct to Eide (see below). — Other steamers cross the fjord from
^stensie to Herand, on the S. side of the bold Samlehovd or Snm-
lekolle (2060 ft.), double that promontory, pass (14 Kil.) Vinas and
Hesthammer (previously toucldng at Utne once a week, see below),
and enter the —
Gravenfjord. At the mouth of this somewhat monotonous fjord,
to the right, rises the Oxen (4120 ft.), which may be ascended from
the S.E. side; fine view, especially of the Serfjord on the S. and
the high mountains on the E. — At the N. end of the Gravenfjord,
where the channel contracts, lies —
5 S.M. Eide (*Maland's Hotel, a large house 1/4 M. from the
quay, R. 2, B. or S. 1Y2> ^- 2) pens. 5-6 kr., good cuisine; Juun-
sen's, 3 min. farther on, unassuming but comfortable; Engl. Ch.
Serv. in July and Aug.), the busiest place on the Hardanger Fjord,
being the station for Vossevangen, and prettily situated. A beau-
tiful walk may be taken by the Vossevangen road upstream to the
Gravensvand (l/g hr. ; to the Gravens-Kirke, 4 Kil.; p. 127). ,
From Eide to Vossevangen or to Ulvik, see p. 126.
c. The S«rfjord.
Steamer from Eide to Odde daily in 3-4hr3. (fare 2 kr. 90 /z(.); from
Bergen to Odde dailv in 14-lt>V2 hrs. (10 kr. 50 0.); from Vik i Eidljord
(p. Ill) to Odde daily (3 kr. 60 0.)
On quitting the Gravenfjord (see above), the steamboat steers
across the broad Vinefjord, the central reach of the Hardanger Fjord
(retrospect of the Oxen), to —
2 S.M. Utne (Utne's Hotel, very fair), beautifully situated on
the S. bank. At the back of the village, which has a large church,
lies a shady valley. The Hanekamh (3590 ft. ; 21/2 lirs.) affords a
fine survey of the Utnefjord, Eidfjord, and Serfjord. — Steamer to
the Eidfjord, see p. 111.
The Odde steamer steers past the gaard of Tronces, with the
promontory of Kirkeno's lying opposite to the E., and enters the —
Fjord. LOFTHUS. Map,p. W2.~ 18. R. 107
**Sflrrfjord ('South Fjord'), running to the S. for a distance of
40 Kil., and gradually narrowing from 2 Kil. to a few hundred yards.
The lofty rocky banks, from which a numher of waterfalls descend,
show that this fjord is of the nature of a huge chasm between
the snow-clad Folgefond and the central Norwegian mountains to
which it belongs. At places, particularly at the mouths of the
torrents, alluvial deposits have formed fertile patches of land,
where cherries and apples thrive luxuriantly, especially near the
centre and N. parts of the fjord, where it is never frozen over. The
banks are therefore comparatively well peopled , and the great
charm of this fjord lies in the contrast between the smiling ham-
lets and the wild fjeld towering above them. — The first station is
usually —
Grimo {Pugerud's Inn, very fair), on a fertile spot on the W.
bank. Beautiful walks (to the hill of Hangsnajs, 20 min. to the
S., etc.).
Opposite Grimo opens the charming Kinservik (reached by
rowing-boat), with the Hw^dnL and the Tveitafos and Nyastelsfos.
A lofty road, with fine views, leads from the church of Kinservik,
past the promontory of Krosriics, to Lofthus (a walk of 21/2 ^irs.).
3 S.M. (from PMde; 5 from Ulvik) Lofthus (Hotel IJUensvany,
English spoken ; Freken Muller's Hotel, near the quay, both com-
fortable; Engl. Oh. Serv. in the season), in an orchard-like region
on the E. bank, enclosed by a wide girdle of rooks, with a lofty
waterfall, is one of the finest points on the Hardanger. A little to
the S.is Oppedal, a landing-place and gaard where the steamers rail
once a week instead of at Lofthus. The parish-church of Ullens-
vnvg, on the S. side of the Aapo-Elr, which falls into the fjord
here, dates from the Gothic period ; fine W. portal; Gothic chnir-
vvindow, with the head of a bishop at the top, and a weeping and a
laughing face on the right and left. Brurastolen, a rocky height
above the church, affords an excrllcnt survey of the Serfjord, N. to
the Oxen (p. 106) and S.W. to the Folgefond. A visit to Bjerne-
bykset ('bears leap'), a fall of tlie Aapo-Elv, takes 2-21/2 Its. from
the inn (there and back). Farther off is the Skrikjofos, higher but
of less volume.
On the opposite (W.) bank of the fjord are the large gaards
of Jiiastttd, Viliire, and Aga. The last-named still contains an old
hall lighted from above. Above Aga rises the Solnut (4830 ft.);
beyond it, the Tliorsnul (olBl ft.). The glaciers of the Folgefond
peer down the valleys at intervals. — Next station —
Bjerven or Ber'^cn {Hotel L'dalsvand , well spoken of), with a
view of the glaciers on the other side. The prominent peak of the
Bervenut (1 hr.) is an admirable point of view.
On the \V. bank is the Vikebuyt, with the station of —
Naae and tlio gaards of Blcie, where just above fertile fields
and gardens are the protruding glaciers of the Folgefond , from
108 R.18. — Map.p.l02. ODDE. Hardanger
wliich several waterfalls descend. — Patli from Bleic over the
mountains to Jondal, see p. 105.
The next places on the E. bank are the gaards of Snndste and
Sexe; Hovland, with a spinning - mill ; Kvalenas^ a promontory
and gaard.
Espen, a station on the E. hank, with several gaards charmingly
situated on the hill.
Then, on the W. bank, Kvitnna, at the entrance to the imposing
R'tunsdal, with the glaciers of the Folgefond in the background.
The excursion to the Raunsdalsvnnd and back {JS-l hrs.) is attract-
ive, though the path is bad. Farther on is Digrenas, with several
waterfalls. Between Kvitnaa and Digrenaes, on the hill, is the
gaard of Aase. — Beyond Digrenaes are the gaards of Apald and
Anen, vyith the waterfall of that name, also called the Ednafos.
On the E. bank, after Espen, comes Fresvik , with its fine
amphitheatre of wood, bordered with meadows and corn-fields.
Then, opposite Digrenaes, are the gaards of Skjalvik, in another
amphitheatre of hills, and Stana, with Isberg at a dizzy height
above it. Between the Tyssedals-Nut and the Tveit-Nut opens the
Tyssedal, at the mouth of which is the fine gaard of Tyssedal. Close
to the fjord the Tyssaa forms a fall picturesquely set in pine-forest.
A group of rocks farther on is called Bisfcopen, Prasten og KLokkeren.
On the W. bank lies the gaard of Eitrheim, with the peninsula
of EitncEs, and Tokheim with its waterfall and the Tokheimsnut,
whence a bridle-path crosses the Folgefond to the Mauranger Fjord
(p. 103). — To the S. are the Ruklenut (right) and the Raasnaas (left).
4 S.M. Odde. — Hotels. "'Hardanger Hotel, kept by if. Tollefsen,
a large house on the fjord. Dear the pier, with a large hall, a handsome
dining-room (paintinga by Nils Bergslien), baths, and two de'pendances,
English spoken, E. 272, B. IV2, D. (1.30 p.m.) 2V4, S. IV2, pens. 6 kr. ;
"Grand Hotel, near the pier, recently rebuilt, with baths, English spoken,
R. 1V2-2, B. or S. IV2, D. (2 p.m.) 2 kr. ; Jordal's Hotel & Skyds Station,
to the W., at the S. end of the fjord, R. I-IV4, B. I-IV4, D. 13/4-2, S. l-l'A kr.,
unpretending but well spoken of.
Post Office, above the de'pendance of the Hardanger Hotel. — Telegraph
Office, to the W. of the Hardanger Hotel. — Antiquities and various useful
wares are sold by G. Helhtrem (from Stavanger) and M. Hammer (from
Bergen). — English Church Service in summer at the Parish Church and
the Hardanger Hotel.
Carriages. To the Lotefos and Espelandtfos and back, two pers. 12,
three pers. 15 kr. ; to Seljeslad (p. 98) and back, 20 or 24 kr. ; to Nan on
the Suldalsvand (p. 97), two pers. 30, three pers. 40, four pers. 45 kr. ;
to Dalen on the Bandaksvand (p. 39), 80, 90, or 100 kr. — Guides. Od Odsen,
Lars Olseii Bttstetttn, Ashjerii Lars Olsen., Nils Aarihun, and Magnus Jsbtrg
(speak English).
Odde or Odda, at the S. end of the Serr fjord, the terminus of the
great routes from Telemarken and the Stavanger Fjord (RR. 5, 16),
consists of the farms of Bustetun. Opheim, Bergeflot, and others,
while the name of Odde ('tongue of land') is applied to the large
church, where the Hardanger costumes (p. 102) may be seen on Sun-
Fjord. BUARBR^.. Map,p.l02. — 18. R. 109
days. Odde is the most frequented spot on the Hardanger Fjord, and
many visitors, especially English, spend a considerable time here.
Walks. (1). The new road to (3/4 M.) Tokheim (bridle-path
to the Folgefond ; see p. 108), which crosses to the W. bank near
Jordal's Hotel, affords a charming view of the fjord. We may extend
this walk by a path through orchards to the highest point of the
peninsula, where we enjoy a view of Odde to the S. and of the
fjord to the N. (from Odde and back ca. 3 hrs.). — (2). To the
*Sandvenvand, to the S. of Odde. We follow the Telemarken road,
ascending the (1/2 M.) Eid, an old moraine. To the right the Aabc-
Elv forms a fine waterfall, and behind us is a beautiful retrospect
of Odde and the Sarfjord. At the top we enjoy a view of the
Sandvenvand, with the Aabo-Elv issuing from it. The Vaslun-Bro,
an iron bridge li/o M. from Odde, spans the river. In 6 min. more
we reach the former quay of the little Jordal steamer (see below),
and by following the road for 1/4 hr. more we obtain the *View of
the Jordal mentioned at p. 110. — ■ The paths to the following
points are all more or less rough. By turning to the W. (right)
from the Telemarken road, opposite the post-oflice, and keeping to
the S. (left) along the slope of the Eidesnut, we obtain a grand
view over the fjord to the N. and the Sandvenvand to the S.,
especially fine by evening-light (there and back 3-4 hrs.). Beyond
the Vastun-Bro, by the small house halfway to the pier, we may
ascend to the left, over pastures and de'bris, to the top of the ridge,
which commands a fine view of the Buarbrae and the Folgefond
(there and back IVs'^ hrs.).
ExcuEsioNS. (1). To THE BuAEBE.»! (41/2-5 ^^8., there and back ;
guide unnecessary). Road to the Sandvewand, see above. Hitherto
a small steamer plied to the W. bank of this lake (10 min. ; there
and back 1 kr.), but it is doubtful whether this service is to be
continued. If it is not. we row in about 20 min. to the entrance
to the Jordal, where the Eidesnut and the Jordalsnut rise to the
right and left, wliilc the hamlet of Jordal lies on the right bank of
the river descending from the valley. The path (guide-posts) leads
to the left from the landing-place, passing among the houses, then
turns to the right, amid orchards, and ascends the right bank of the
stream. The Jordal , a valley enclosed by precipitous rocks, is
remarkable for its rich vegetation (birches, elms, barley). The
bluish -green Folgefond forms the background. In 1/4 hr. from
Gaard Jordal we cross a bridge to the left bank of the Jordals-
Elv, which the stony path now follows. In 50 min. more we
pass the gaard of Buar (1050 ft.), on the opposite bank. To the
left, high up, is a waterfall. The path is nearly level for about
1/2 M. more and then ascends for a few minutes to a refreshment-
hut. Thence we ascend the moraine to (6-8 min.) a point im-
mediately facing the Buarbrae. The glacier is divided into two
arms, which afterwards unite, by a rock called the Vrbotlen, and
110 R. 18. -Map, p. 1U2. SK.J^GGEDAL. Hnrdanger
conscqueutly has an unusually large central moraine. The Buarbrae
has been receding for several years and is not so fine as the Rondhus-
br£E fp. i03); neither is to be compared with the great glaciers of
the Nordfjord (pp. 185, 188).
Good mountain-walkers may ascend on the right side of the Buarbrffi
to the Folgefond, skirt the Eidesnut and the Mitklenut , and descend
past the Tokheimsnut to Tokhelm and Odde, an interesting but fatiguing
expedition of 8-10 hrs. (guide 4-8 kr.).
(2). To the LoTEFOs and the EsPELANDsros (there and back
6-8 hrs.' walk, [i-b hrs.' drive). We follow the Telemarkeu road
to the Vastun-Bro and pass the landing-place of the Jordal steam-
boat (comp. p. 109). Farther on we pass under menacing rocks
and over 'Ure' or rocky debris, enjoying a fine view of the Jordal,
with the Buarbraj and the Folgefond in the background. Farther on,
t) the left, is the beautilul Kjendalsfos; opposite is the Strandsfos,
descending from the Svarlenul. At the head of the lake, 7 Kil. from
Odde, lies the farm of Sandoen. The road next passes (2'/2 l^^il-)
H'ddal (330 ft.), where the Vafos or Hildalsfos descends on tlie
right, and (4 Kil.) Grensdul (reached by a bridge), the starting-point
for the ascent of the Saue-Nut (about 3960 ft. ; splendid view of the
Folgefond). The valley contracts to a ravine ('Djuv'), through which
dashes the GrensdaU-Elv. To the lelt is a tablet to the memory
of a German naval officer who was drowned here in 1897. About
2 Kil. beyond Grensdal we reach, on the left, the *Lotefos and the
Skarsfos, the waters of which unite below, while opposite to them
is the veil-like *Espelaiidsfos, one of the most beautiful waterfalls
in Norway. The best point of view is on the hill to the left, just
above the road; small Inn (R. IV2, B- 1 V2 ki-) a* ^^^ ^op.
This excursion may be continued up the picturesque ravine to
Sel.eslad (p. 98), a drive of nearly 2 hrs. more from the Lotefos
(comp. p. 98), forming a full day's expedition from Odde and back.
(3). Across the Folgefond to Sundal on the Maurangkb.
Fjoku, 10-11 hrs. (guide 12-16 kr.), perhaps better on the whole
in this direction than in the reverse (see p. 103).
(4). To THE Skj^eggeualsfos, 10-12 hrs., there and back (half
on foot), steep and fatiguing at places, and not without risk in
wet weather. A guide (6 kr. or more), who serves as rower, had
better be taken from Odde. We row from Odde to (6 Kil.)
Tyssedul (p. 108). We ascend thence by a new bridle-track on the
left bank of the Tyssaa, through wood, enjoying beautiful retro-
spective views of the fjord and the Folgefond. We pass several
small falls and describe a circuit through a wild gorge, in which
the Tyssaa disappears wholly from view. At the top the path crosses
a bridge to the right bank. In about 21/2 lirs. from Tyssedal we
reach the gaard of Skjseggedal (pron. Sheggadal; comfortable
hotel, English spoken; order meal for return, D. 2'/2 l^i'O- ^'" ^^^
left the Moyelifos descends from the Mogelinut, and on the right
is the Vasendenfos, the discharge of the liingedalsvand (p. 111). We
Fjord. EIDFJORD. Map,p. WJ.- 18. n. Ill
cross the Vetlevand ('small lake') by boat in a few minutes, and in
8 min. more walk over an 'Eid', or isthmus, to the picturesque and
exquisitely clear iiin^edaJsivmcZ (about 1300 ft. above the sea), with
the huge Einsatfjdd on the S. Here we embark in another boat.
(A high wind sometimes prevails here, while the fjord below is
calm, in which case the night must be spent at the inn, or the ex-
cursion abandoned. It is desirable to have one or more rowers
besides the guide; fee ^kr. each, overcharges not unknown.) The
lake is 6 Kil. long, and we row to its upper end in i^/o hr. ; about
halfway the Folgefond becomes visible behind us, and farther on,
the picturesque Tyssestrenge fall from a rock 500 ft. high. The
*SkJEeggedalsfos, a superb waterfall 525 ft. high, is less imposing
but more picturesque than the VOTingsfos (p. 112). In summer the
volume of water is sometimes scanty, but when the snow is melting
( 'Flomtid') and after heavy rain the effect is very grand. The ascent
from the landing-place to the foot of the falls leads across 'Ur.
FkoJI OdDE OVKK the HaKDANGER VlDDA TO Vlli I ElFJORD. This is
a walk of lour days, on which provisions and sleeping-rugs must be carried
(guide, Jergeii Fr'eim of Odde). 1st Day, via the Einsatfjdd and Mosboden
to the shoiitinsi-lddge oi Langevasboden; 2nd Day, to the Liilas-Soeter; 3rd Day,
to the farm of Viveiiid (bed 1 kr. ; no food); 4th Day, to the FosU Hotel,
Vering/os, and Vik (see below).
d. The Eidfjord.
Steamee from Eide, where passengers by the Odde and Bergen steamer
have to change, to Vik, every week day in 2 hrs. (fare 2 kr. 10 0.; once
a week via Utiie in 4 hrs.) ; to Ulvik in 3-4 hrs. (fare 2 kr, 10 0.; from Vik
to Ulvik 1 kr. 20 0.).
Tlu'Eidfjord or jS' i/)"ord, the easternmost branch oftheHardanger
Fjord, is enclosed by precipitous rocks. The steamer calls when re-
quired at i^ifiy^er?, Djenne, and Valkivik. Beyond the iiwsna"S, with
the gaard of Bu (which the Bunut behind it deprives of the sun
the whole winter), the Osefjord diverges to the left (p. 114). The
steamer passes its mouth. On the right towers the Skoddalsfjeld.
At the mouth of the valley running inland between the Skoddals-
fjeld and the RuUenut lies Erdal , with a saw-mill and a group of
bouses, where moraines and ancient watei-lines are observable.
On the N. side of the fjord ri?es tlie ice-girt Onin (p. 114). Facing
us rises the almost entirely bare Vindaxlen. Between the Oueu
and Vindaxlen opens the Simodal (called at only by some steamers),
above which peers the snowy plateau of the Hardanger Jekul^^. 114).
Near Vik, on the S.E. bank of the fjord, is the country-house of
the painter Nils Bergslien.
6 S.M. (from Fide) Vik i Eidfjord. — 'Vbiungseos Hotel, a large
house, close to the quay, kept by the Ijroihcrs iVcwfteim, who speak English,
R. l'/j-3, 15. li/a, D. 2, S. I1/4 kr. The dining-room contains painiiniis by
Nils Bergslien. — Eiujlis/i Church 8erricc in Ihe season. — Skyds to M:iab0
(p. 112) 2 kr. 38, 2 rcr.s. 3 kr. 50 0., there and back 4 kr. 7fi 0., 7 kr.;
saddle-hnrse (limuuht, from Sabu) lui to the Vwringfos 3, to the Fo.xli Hotel
5 kr. — EiKjuiry should be made as to whether the restaurant at the
112 Route 18. V0RINGFOS. Hardanger
V0ringfoB is open, as it is otherwise necessary to have a supply of jiro-
visiuns. — Guide for the more important excursions from Stebo (see below),
Halsten H. Meylelun.
Vik, grandly situated in a bay near the E. end of the Eidfjord,
is a good starting-point for several fine excursions. About 1/2 M.
distant is the church of Eidfjord, situated on a moraine ('Vor')
about 1 M. broad, which separates the fjord from the Eidtjords-
vand. The river issuing from the latter forces its way through the
moraine.
To THE V0RINGFOS, 8-9 hrs., there and back (carriage to Tveito
recommended). The new road skirts the river to the Eidfjordsvandj
a lake enclosed by huge cliffs. It then follows the W. bank of the
lake, in great part being cut through the rock. Beyond two short
tunnels we see the gaard of Kvam ('basin') on the hill above, from
which the Kvamfos descends. On the opposite bank rises the Eid-
fjordsfjeld. At the head of the lake we cross the Bygdar-Elv
( Hjalmo-Elv), which issues from the Hjalmodal (p. 113).
7 Kil. Sabe, situated with several other gaards (Megletun,
Lilletun, Varberg, and Reise), on a small fertile plain, watered by
the Bygdar-Elv and by the Bjoreia, the latter stream emerging from
the Maabedal. — The Maabedal is ascended by a new road, at first
on the left, then on the right bank of the Bjoreia, which leads past
the gaard of Tveito, where the river forms some pretty falls, to the
gaard of Maabe (820 ft. ; 7 Kil. from Saebe).
This road is now being carried farther on. In the meantime,
however, we follow the path of the 'Turistforening', which crosses
the stream and ascends rapidly on its left bank to the small, dark-
green Maabevand. In 1 hr. we reach the Veringfos Restaurant
(1380 ft.) and in 10 min. more the stupendous **V«rringfos, the
roar of which has long been audible. A suspension-bridge enables
us to approach close to the fall (water-proofs useful). The Bjoreia
plunges in a single leap of 5*20 ft. into a narrow basin enclosed by
perpendicular rocks on three sides. Two ridges of rock at the top
divide the river into three falls, which however soon re-unite. A
dense volume of spray constantly rises from the seething cauldron,
forming a cloud above it. Beautiful rainbow-hues are seen in the
spray, especially in the afternoon.
High above the fall is situated the conspicuous *Fosli Hotel
(ca. 2300 ft; R., B., or S. 1 1/4, D- 2 kr.), the proprietor of which,
Ola Oaren, is a good guide. The path thither diverges 5 min. below
the restaurant (see above) from the Veringfos route, crosses the
Bjoreia by a wire bridge, and reaches the hotel in I-IV4 ^^- -"^^^
points on the margin of the ravine, protected by railings, afford
splendid views of the falls. Those who spend several days here
should pay a visit to one of the herds of reindeer at pasture on the
top of the hill (3-4 hrs. from the hotel).
The Fosli Hotel is the starting-point for several fine excursions.
One of tlie best of these is the passage to the N. into the Simodal (guide
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Fjord. SKYKJEFOS. 18. Route. 1 13
4-5 kr. ; to Tveit O^/^-G^/o lirs.). The route crosses the marsliy
plateau between the Store and the Vetle Ishaug (4265 ft.) or avoids
this by a slight de'tour. In about I'/o hr. a fine *View is disclosed
of the massive Hardanger Jekul. The streams descending from the
icy crags of this mountain fall into the Rembesdal on the W. and
the Skykjedal on the S. The top of the Rembesdalsfos is also in sight.
The old route to the Slmodal bears to the left, while we reach the
new route by keeping to the right, at first without a path. We
descend in a straight direction for about '20 min. to the margin of
the Skykjedal. where we obtain a magnificent **View of the upper
Skykjefos (see below). — We now return to the top and proceed in
the direction of the new path, crossing the Skykjedals-Elv. (This is
difficult in rainy weather, when it is better to stick to the old route. )
We then skirt the upper margin of the valley to (20 min) the new
path (Bakkelaupet, see below), which descends in windings along
the verdant slope, and in 1 hr. reaches the Skykjefos, of which it
affords a good view. We then follow the valley to (^/4 hr.) Tcelt
and (1 hr.) the steamboat-landing-place of Sunodal, whence we
proceed by rowing-boat to (1 hr.) Vik (p. 111).
Wilh the aid of a guide and Ihe addition of o'/i hrs. *o our time, we
may include a visit to the DiBmmevand in the above excursion. In this case
we bear to the left from Ihe Bakkelaupet olong the slope; comp. p. 114.
Another good excursion from the Fosli Hotel crosses the plateau to
the S. via the gaard of Heil, the Skisceier, and Brrrostel, and descends
into the imposing Jljcelmodal, through which a g'cd path descends to Sxb0
(a vjralk of 8-9 hrs. in all).
Excursion to thb Simodal, a splendid day's march (guide to
the Skykjefos 4, Rembesdalsfos 5 , Rembesdalsvand 6, Daemme-
vand 7 kr. ; provisions necessary). — The E. end of the Eidfjord
consists of a narrow bay, where the steamer calls two or three
times a week only, but it is generally most convenieiit to visit
it by rowing-boat from Vik (5 Kil., in 1 hr.). Near the landing-
place is tlie gaard oi Sad, situated on an ancient moraine (good
quarters at the house of Torstein T. Tveit, who is a good guide for
the Dffmmevand). To the N. from the head of this bay stretches
the Ansdal, in which rises a curious isolated rock about 380 ft.
in height, and to the E. runs the Simodal. A road ascends the
latter to the gaards of Mehus and to Tveit (5 Kil. from Sacdl, whence
a bridle-path ascends the right bank of the brawling torrent. Rich
northern vegetation. We soon obtain a view of both ends of the
valley (N.E. and S.W.). After about 1 hr. we cross the stream
formed by the huge *Skykjevo8, whirh descends from a height to
the right in a perpendicular fall of 660 ft. We then ascend to the
right in windings by a new path named 'Bakkelaupet'. After
about 1 hr. from the bridge a path, diverging to the left, leads to
the N.E. end of the valley, where the copious * Rembesdalsfos,
850 ft. in height, becomes visible. [It takes about 1 hr. to reach
this fall, and from it we may follow a fatiguing path named the
Baedeker's Norwav and Sweden. 8th Edit. 8
1 14 R. 18.— Maps, pp. 112, 102. ULVIK.
Anclresstig, which ascends upwards of 1700 steps to (1-1 V2 lii"-) the
Rembesdalsvand.] At the top of Bakkelaupet, about 2 hrs. from
the Skykje Bridge, the path from the Fosli Hotel joins ours on the
light (comp. p. 113). We now keep to the left along the mountain-
slope, enjoying a beautiful *Vie\v of the whole Simodal, and in
1 hr. reach the Skaaranut, high above the Rembesdalsvand, to which
the Rembesdalsbrac descends. In 1 hr. more we come to Tresnut,
whence (with guide) we cross the glacier to (1 hr.) the shelter-hut
on the other side. — The following is a still finer, but somewhat
longer route. From the Skaaranut we descend rapidly to the
Revihesdalsvand (ca. 3300 ft. above the sea), cross by boat to the
Rembesdals-Scetir, and re-ascend (somewhat rough and fatiguing)
above the N. margin of the Rembesdal Glacier and past the Lure
Nut, to the shelter-hut.
From the hut an ascent of scarcely 10 min. brings us to the
*Dgemmevand, a mountain - lake , in magnificent surroundings,
nearly 6000 ft. above the sea. Wonderful contrasts are afforded by
the dark -green water, flecked with floating ice, the deep-blue
glacier, the dark fells of the Lure Nut, and the gleaming whiteness
of the Hardanger Jekul (6540 ft.), towering above all. A tunnel,
the mouth of which is visible near the shelter-hut, was completed
in 1901 in order to afford the lake a regular discharge. Before the
construction of this emissary the water of the lake was sometimes
piled up against the glacier until it finally burst its icy barrier and
rushed down to devastate the Simodal. — It is not advisable to return
to the Rembesdalsvand and descend thence to the Rembesdalsfos.
From Vik we steam down the Eidfjord and turn to the right
into the Osefjord, the N. branch of the Eidfjord, with a grand
mountain-background. To the E. is the snow-clad Onen (6150 ft.),
from which the lofty Degerfos descends; to the N. rises the majestic
Vasfjceren (2066 ft.). On the right, near the entrance, is a fall of
the Bagna-Elv. A low wooded hill, called Osen, separates the
sombre Osenfjord from its W. arm, the smiling JJlvikfjord, into
which we steer. — We soon come in sight of the farms of Ulvik,
thickly clustered round the head of the fjord.
3 S.M. TJlvik. — Hotels. 'Beaken^s, beautifully situated close to the
fjord and the chief resort of tourists, E. from IV2. B. 11/4, D. 2, S. I'A kr. —
Vesteheim's, a good family hotel, largely occupied by summer-boarders,
R., B., or S. 11/4, D. 2kr. ; Ulvik's, adjoining, similar charges. — Sponheim's
Hotel, on the new road (p. 127), 1 M. from the pier, unassuming. —
English Church Service in July and August.
Vlvik-Brakences, beautifully situated, is one of the most attract-
ive places on the Hardanger Fjord. Brakences, with its church,
is the chief cluster of houses among the hamlets and farms at the
head of the fjord, which are collectively known as Ulvik.
Walks. — A pleasant walk follows the road ascending near
the Ulvik and Vestrheim hotels, crosses the bridge at the fine
OSEFJORI). Map, p. 119. — 18. R. 115
fall of the Tyssua, and winfls along the slopes of the Hyllaldev. At
(ca. V^^'^O *^® point where the road makes a wide sweep to tlie
left, to avoid the gorge of the Tyssaa, we obtain a grand *View
(comp. p. 127; still finer at the top, V2 hr. farther on). — The
visitor should also follow the road leading to the S. from the
Brakeu£es Hotel along the fjord for a mile or two, in order to enjoy
the fine view in returning of IJlvik, with the Vasfj;eren in the hack-
ground. This road goes on to (QKil.) Hetlena-^, where the steamers
land their passengers when the fjord is frozen.
From the church a road, shaded at tirst by limes, birches, ashes,
and poplars, leads to the N.E., passing several gaards (^Hagestad,
Lekve, etc.). It then traverses meadows, dotted with apple-trees,
and leads across the hill to the Osefjord (1 hr.). If the peasants
on the way offer a boat for the trip to Ose (there and back 21/2 krO»
those who wish to make this trip should engage rowers before
reaching the boat-houses, where they are not always to be found.
The row back all the way to Ulvik takes 2iy'2-3 hrs.
The *Head of the Osefjord (where the steamers do not touch),
enclosed by huge mountains, may be visited by row-boat. Opposite
the starting-place, to the E., is the lonely gaard of Segmlveit, sur-
rounded by cherry-trees. A little to the S. of this point is the
'Stenkirke', a rocky fissure with a low entrance. It takes '^/i hr. to
reach the extreme N. end of the fjord. Provisions should be taken, as
the food at Ose is deficient, though the accommodation is otherwise
fair. A guide may be obtained here for excursions in the Osedal.
The wild '-Oaedal runs inland from the head of the fjord, between the
Krosfjaren and Xipahegd on the E. and the Vas/Jivreii on the W. It rapidly
grows narrower towards the N. A toilsome walk of 10-12 hrs. may be
taken to the Ose-Scaler, and thence, between the Oseskavl ani Vosseskavl on
the riyht and the Ganydalskavl on the left, to the Op.'.(vt-lit0le at the head
of the Rundal (p. I'iU). Then across the OravehaU (3710 ft.) to Kaardal
in the Flaamsdal (p. 139).
The ascent of the Vasfjaeren (5350 ft.) takes 12-16 hrs. from Ulvik,
there and back. Ole Hakestad of Lekve (sec above) is a good guide (6-8 kr.).
The fatigue is lessened by sleeping at the sa;ter on the Sohivand, 1 hr. to
the N. of Lekve, on the previous night. Splendid view from the top. —
From the Sulsivand to Klevcne and the Opsret-Sf/zrle in the Kundal (p. 129),
10-12 hrs.
19. Bergen.
Arrival. Most of the large steamers are berthed on (he N. side of the
harbour bv Bradbmnken and Fccslningshrifgffen (PI. B, 2), but some of the
British vessels land at the Toldbod (PI. B, 2). The oltice of the Bergen
Steamship t'o. is at Xo. 8, Torvet. The Hardanger boats lie at the Holbergs-
Almenniny (PI. 5; B, 2) ; the Sogne and Nordfjord boats by the Nykirke
(PL 6; B, 2). Cabs, see p. 116: the drivers are apt to over-charge. Porter
('Ba'rer') to the hotels. 350.-1 kr. — Travellers leaving Bergen by steam-
boat should ascertain in good time where the vessel starts from. As to
berths, see p. xviii. Most of the offices are in Strand-(jaden ; branch-
office of the Borgen Co. at Bradhsenken. — The Railway Station (PL C, 4
p. 121) is in the S. part of the town, near the Lille Lnngegaardsvand.
Hotels. 'Hotel Kouge (PI a ; C, 3) , Ole-BuUs-Plads , with electric
light, elevator, and baths, R. 2-10, B. 2, D. 3, S. 2V-j kr.; »Holdt"s Hotel
IIB Route 19. BERGEN. Practical Notes.
(PI. b; C, 3), between the Torv- Almenning aud Engen , an old house,
frequently renovated and extended, with electric light and baths, R. 2V2-
71/2, B. 2, D. 3, S. 2 kr. — MfiTRoroLB (PI. m; C, 3), Christies-Gaden, at
the cor. of Starvhus-Gaden, to the N. of the public park, with electric
light, baths, and lift, R. 3-6, B. IV2, D. (2 p.m.) with coffee 3'/4 kr.,
S. 2 kr. ; Hot. Boulevaud, by the Town Park, to the S. of the Hotel
Norge, a pleasant family hotel, with baths and electric light; Smebt (PI. e;
B, 2), Strand Gaden, to the E. of the Nykirke and near the quay of the
Qord-steamers, R. 2, B. or S. V,'2, D. (2 p.m.) 2V2 kr. ; Victoria, Christies-
Gaden, opposite the Metropole, with electric light and baths, R. 2V2-4,
B. 11/4, D. (1-4 P-m-) i^ la carte, S. 2 kr. : Cintinextal (PI. d; C, 3), Kaad-
stue-Plads, fair and not dear; Hot. d'Axgleteree (PI. g; 0,3), Raadstue-
Plads, opposite the fire-station, R. from IV2, ^. 2, B. or S. IV2, pens. 6 kr. —
Private Hotels and Pensions (comp p. 10; all well spoken of; K. 1V2-4, B. 1,
D. IV2, S. 1 I'/i 1 pens. 4-6 kr.) : Frk. Hansen, Torv-Almenning 12, at the
corner of Valkendorfs-Gaden; Frk. Marie Beck, Tor7-Gaden; Fru Sleen,
Smaastrand-Gaden, nearthe post-office; Fru Dina Leivaas, Smaastrand-GadenG .
Restaurants. 'Grand Cafi (PI. x; C, 3), opposite the Hotel Norge and
the public park, with dining-rooms on the first floor (D. 1-4 p.m.); 'Cafi
Boulevard, in the hotel of the same name (see above), with beer-saloon
with paintings by Bergslien (beer on draught; D. 2'/2-4kr.); Pa'terson's
Cafi, in the Hotel Norge; HoUWs Cafi, in Holdt's Hotel (sec above) Music
in the evening at these four. — 'Fleien^s (PI. D, 2; p. 122); parties should
telephone beforehand; no spirituous liquors, and on Sun. forenoon beer
is served only with warm meals. — "Bellevue (PI. F, 4), see p. 122. —
Confectioners. '' Mich e! sen, Uluf-Kyrres-Gaden, corner of Starvhus-Gaden,
by the park.
Electric Tramways (running every 7 min. ; fare 10 0.. including change
of cars). 1. From the Niigaards- Bro (PI. D, 5; p. 121) via Nygaards-
Gaden to the Torv, tlience through 0vre Gaden to the Marieckirke, and
thence to the !N. to Sandviken (PLC, 1). — 2. From Smaastrand - Oaden
(E. of the Torv-Almenning, PI. C. 3) past the post-office and cathedral and
via Kalfarveien to Kalfaret (PI. E, 4; pp. 121,122).
Carriages. From the steamboat-pier or from the railway-station into
the town, 1-2 pers. IV2, 3-4 pers. 2 kr., trunk 20 0.; per hour, either in-
side or outsiic the town, ca'iole 2, fiig for 1-2 pera. 2V2, victoria for
1-3 pers. 3, landau-and-pair for 1-4 pers. 4 kr. — Carriages for excursions
may be obtained from 0. Sa'bi/e, Engen 22, near Holdt's Hotel: to the
restaurant on the Flaien (p. i'A) and back (21/2 3 hrs.), cariole 5, gig or
stolkjserre 7, landau 10 kr. ; via Fl0ien (where dinner may be ordered to
be ready on the return) to the footpath on the Blaamanden 8, 12, 16 kr.
(time-tariff paid for excess if kept more than 4 hrs.); to Fantofl-Birkelnnd
(p. 123) and back (3 hrs ) 5. 7, 10 kr. ; circular drive via S indviken (p. 122)
Fjeldveien, Kalvedalen, Fantoft, and back (3V2-4 hrs) 9, 12, 16 kr.
Boats (Fl0t): across the harbour 10-20 0., according to distance. —
Electric Ferry Boat (5 0.) from the Holherg^s Almenning to Bradbcenken
(PI. B, 2) and from the Mtirahnenning to Drasggen {Drags- Almenning ; PI C, 2).
Post Office (PI. C, 3), Raadstue-Plads, open from 8 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. ;
on Sun. 8-9 and 5-6. — Telegraph Office, in the Exchange (PI. C, 3; entrance
behind), always open.
Shops. Hammer, Strand-Gaden 57, Norwegian antiquities, modern silver
ornaments, and pictures (branch in the Torv, at the corner of Valken-
dorfs-Gaden) ; Brandt, Strand-Gaden 51 b, corner of the 0stre Muralmenning,
furs, one of the largest shops of the kind in Norway (branch TorT-Almen-
ning 2, at the corner of Valkendorfs-Gaden) ; Husflids-Forening, Torv-Almen-
ning 12, wuod-carvings, embroidery, etc.; Beyer's Towisi Bazaar, Strand-
Gaden 2 (books, photographs, wuod-carvings, silver filigree-work, furs, etc. ;
dark room for photographer,?); Milne Grieg, Torv-Almenning 16, fishing-
tackle and sporting requisites; Sundt d- Co., Strand-Gaden 59-61, tailors for
ladies and gentlemen, also travelling requisites; J. L. Nerlien, between
the Torv-Almenning and Engen, for photographic materials). — Chemist :
Monrad Krohn (English spoken), Strand-Gaden, at the corner of the Hol-
bergs-Almenning. — Cigars and Tobacco : Reimers & Son, Smaastrand-
Geo^nifh. Inst . r.Wa^er feBebca .Lcips i^.
Situation. BERGEN. 19. Route. 117
Oftden 3. — Wime, Tinned Goods ('Hermetik'), and Biscuits: C. Kroppeliem
£nie, Strand-GadeniO. — Haik-Deessek : 0. Jergenten. Olaf-Kyrres-GudenlS,
to the N. of the park. — Xeicspopir Kicsqves in and near the Torv.
Banks. Gorges Bank (VI. t-), Bevgens Credit-Bank., Bergens Privatbank
(Fl. P), all in the Torv; office-hnurs 9.30-12.30 and 4-530.
Goods Agents. £ller/,usen d- Lund, Lille Allonaaaarden, Strand-Gaden 79.
Baths. Central- Badet, Kordal-Kruns Gaden, behind the Hctel iforge
(closed on Sun.). — Sea Baths at the Bontelbd, to the iS'.W. of the Fsestnings-
bryggen (PI. B, 1)-, lor gentlemen in the alternoon, for ladies in the fort noon.
Consuls. Jjriti.-^h, Mr. Albert Gran^ corner of Torvet and Strand-Gaden.
American. Mr. Victor Kelson, Domkirke-Gaden 7 ; vice-con.sul, Mr. Tli. Beyer.
— Lloyd's Agent. Mr. J. C. Christensen.
£nglish Church Service in summer.
Tourist Offices. T. Beiinet og Senner, Torv-Almenning 18 ; Beuer, Strand-
Gaden 2 (see p. 116); T/.os. Cook d- Son, Torv- Almenning 37. — IJebgens
TcristFouening, Strand-Gaden 29. BergensFjellmannalag ('mountaineers'
club'), Torv-Almenning (president, 3Ir. K. Ling).
Bergen (N. lat. GO°23'3, one of the oldest and most picturesque
towns in Norway, with 72,600 inhab., lies on a hilly peninsula
and isthmus hounded on theN. by the Vaayen and the By fjord, on
the S.E. by the Lungegaardsvand, and on the S.W. by the Pudde-
fjord. In the background rise four mountains, 1300-2100 ft. in
height: Blaarnanden (1890 ft.) with the Fleifjeld (810 ft.) to the
N.E., llriken (2[0b It.) to the S.E., Levstaken (1560 ft.) to the S.,
and Lyderhorn (1300ft.) -with the Damgnardsfjeld to the S.W.;
but the citizens count seven, and the armorial bearings of the
town also contain seven hills (formerly seven balls). The climate is
exceedingly mild and humid, resembling that of the W. coast of
Scotland ; the frosts of winter are usually slight and of short duration,
the thermometer very rarely falling below 15-20° Fahr., and the
average rainfall is 72 inches (in the Nordfjord about 35 in., at
Christiania 26 in. only). The mean temperature of the whole year
is 45" Fahr. (Christiania, 41°), and that of July 58° (Christiania,
62°). Owing to the mildness of the climate, the vegetation in the
environs is unusually rich; flowers are abundant, while grain and
fruit ripen fairly well.
The general aspect of the town is modern. The quarters ai!-
juining the harbour, which is entirely enclosed by large warehouses
('Segaarde'), alone retain a characteristic medieval appearance.
The town extends round the spacious harbour, called ^'(lagen,
stretches over the rocky heights at the base of the Fleifjeld and
over tlie peninsula of Nordmes , which separates the Vaaien from
the Puddefjord (to the S.), and is now spreading to the S.E.,
towards the Lille and Store Lungegaardsvand. Many of the houses
are roofed with red tiles, which present a picturesque appearance.
The older houses are timber-built, and usually painted white.
The streets are called 'Gader', the lanes and passages 'Smug' or
'Smitter', and these are intersected at right angles by wide open
spaces called 'Almenninge', designed chiefly to prevent the spread-
ing of conflagrations. Notwithstanding this precaution, Bergen has
been repeatedly destroyed by fire, as for example in 1702, the
118 Route 19. BERGEN. History.
disaster of which year is described by Peter Dass (p. Ixxvi) in three
poems. A conduit now supplies the town with water from Svartediget
(p. 122), thus diminishing the danger.
The inhabitants of Bergen, as well as those of the whole district
(Nordhorland, Sondhorland, and Voss), are more vivacious than
those of other parts of Norway, and are noted for their sociability
and light-heartedness, which burst forth in song on festive occasions.
English and German are much spoken by the better-educated.
Bergen {horo. Bjergvin-i 'pasture among the mountains') was founded by
King Olaf Kyrre in 1070-75 on the site of the old royal residence of Aal-
rekstad, at the E. end of the present harbour, which at that period ran
inland as far as the cathedral. The town must soon have become an
important place, as the grcate.st battles in the civil wars of the following
centuries were fought near it. In 1135 Magnus Sigurdssen was captured
and deprived of his sight here by Harald Qille, who in his turn was
slain by Sigurd Slemhe the following year. In 1154 Harald's son Sigurd
Mund was killed by the followers of his brother Inge on the quay of
Bergen. In 1181 a naval battle took place near the Nordnses between
kings Magnus and Sverre; and in 1188 the Kuvlunger and 0slcjegger were
defeated by Sverre at the naval battle of Florvaag (near the Ask0). Ten
years later, during the so-called 'Bergen summer', the rival Bjerkebener, un-
der Haakon Jarl and Peter Stei/per, and Bugler under Philipp Jarl and Er-
ling Sleinvxg, fought for possession of the town, till the latter were de-
feated in a great battle near the old German church. In 1223 a national
diet was held at Bergen, at which Haakon IIaakonsein''s title to the crown
was recognised (p. 1).
For its subsequent commercial prosperity the town was indebted to
the Hanseatic League, which established an office here about the middle
of the 15th century. From this Comptoir the German merchants were
known as Konlorske, and the nickname of Garper (probably from garpa,
'to talk loudly') was also applied to them. Having wrested various priv-
ileges from the Danish government, they gradually monopolised the whole
trade of northern and western Norway, and forcibly excluded the Eng-
lish, Scottish, and Dutch traders, and even the Norwegians themselves,
from all participation in it. In order to keep the Bergen Comptoir
dependent upon the chief seats of the League at LVibeck and Bremen, the
merchants and clerks were forbidden to marry ; hence the immorality
that prevailed in their quarters became notorious. At length, after an
oppressive sway of more than a century, the Germans were successfully
opposed by Christopher Valkendorf in 1559, after which their power
declined. Their 'Comptoir' continued to exist for two centuries more,
but in 1764 their last 'Stave', or office, was sold to a native of Norway.
Even in the 17th cent, the trade of Bergen much exceeded that of Copen-
hagen, and at the beginning of the 19th cent. Bergen was more populous
than Christiania.
Among eminent natives of Bergen may be mentioned Ludvig Holberg
(b. 1684, d. at Copenhaaen 1754), the traveller, social reformer, poet, and
founder of modern Danish literature, especially comedy; Johan Welhaven,
the poet (d. 1873); J. C. Dahl, the painter (d. 1857) ; and Ole Bull (d. 1880),
the musician.
Fish has always been the staple commodity of Bergen, which is still
the greatest fish-mart in Norway, in spite of the growing competition of
Aalesund and Christiansund. The Hanseatic merchants compelled the
northern fishermen to send their fish to Bergen, and to the present day
the trade slill flows mainly through its old channels. In May and .lune
occurs the first Nordfar-Stmvne ('arrival of northern seafarers'), when the
fishermen of the N. coasts arrive here with their 'Jagter', deeply laden
with cod-liver oil (of five qualities: 'Damp Medicin-tran', 'Medicin-tran'.
'blank', 'brun-blank', and'brun') and rce('Rogn'); and in July and August
they bring 'Klipfisk' and 'Eundlifli'. — Bergen has the largest mercantil
i
Torv Almenning. BERGEN. 19. Route. 119
fleet in Norwny (270 steamers, witb an aggregate tonnage of 500/00, be-
sides sailing-vessels). The ship-building yards are also the largest in
Norway: Oeorgernes Ver/t on the Puddefjord, Laksevaag Damp sic ibabyggeri
at Laksevaag, and Bergens Mekaniske Vccrksted at Solheimsviken.
The main street is Strand - Gaden (PI. B, C, 2, 3), running
parallel witli the harbour, and containing the principal shops and
offices. (Its W. prolongation leads to the Nordnses; see p. 120.)
At the E. end of Strand-Gaden lies the Torv-Almenning, with
the adjoining Tory (PI. C, 3), -which together form a long 'Plads',
running S. from the E. end of the harhour, and separating the old
part of the town from the new quarter built since the fire of 1865.
Here are the principal modern buildings, including the Exchange
{^Borsen; built by Solberg), and several banks; and here also is the
point of intersection of the electric tramways (p. 116). At the upper
(S.) end of the Torv-Almenning is a Statue of Christie (PI. 3, G 3 ;
by Borch), the president of the first Norwegian Storthing , which
concluded the convention with Sweden in 1814 (comp. p. Ixxvii).
To the N. of this point, in front of the Exchange, rises a Statue of
Ludvig Holberg (PL 7, C 3; see p. 118), by B'orjeson.
From the Torv, at the head of the harbour, projects a pier called
Triangelen^ at which the fishermen usually land. Interesting fish-
market here (especially Wed. and Sat., 8-10 a.m.). On the N. the
Torv is boinded by the Municijyal Meat Market (Kjedbazar), on the
first floor of which is the Town Library ('76,000 vols. ; reading-
room open 12-2 and 5-8). — For the adjoining Vetrlids-Almenning
and Kong-0;kurs-Oadeii, running to the S.E., see p. 121.
To the N.W. of the Torv, on the N. side of the harbour, ex-
tends *Tyd8kebryggen (PI. C, 2), or the German Quay, for the use of
the flshing-smaiks mentioned at p. 118. It was originally a wooden
structure, renewed in 1702, but it is now being rebuilt of stone.
The wooden 'gaards', in which the clerks of the merchants of Bremen,
Liibeck, and other towns of the League resided and kept their
stores of dried fish, are also on the eve of demolition. The one
nearest the Torv, known as Finnegaarden, is to be maintained as a
national monument and serves as the *Hanseatic Museum(V\. C, 2).
The Han?eatic Museum (open daily, 10-G in June, July, & Aug., 3-4 dur-
ing the rest of the year, and on Sua., 12-1; adm. 1 kr. ; catalogue 1 kr.)
conveys a go<id idea of how the gaards were fitted up, and contains a col-
lection of furnilure, weapons, fire-extinguishing apparatus, etc., mostly of
the latest Hanseatic period. Each gaard was presided over by a 'Bygherre'
and was divided into 'Staver', or offices, belonging to different owners.
Each merchant had a clerk and one or more servants ('Byl0ber). On
the Ground Floor were the warehouses; on the First Floor was an outer
room leading to the 'Stave', or office of the manager, with his dining-room
and bedroom behind ; and on the Second Floor were the 'Klaven', or rooms
of the clerks and servants. — As the use of fire or light in the main
building was forbidden, a common room ('Skj«jtstucn') for the inmates of
each gaard was erected a little behind it, towards 0vre Gaden. These
rooms were used for social intercourse, especially on winter-evenings.
Above the gaards oiTydskebryggen, to the N., rises the Marise-
kirke (PI. C, 2), with its two towers, erected in the 12th cent..
120 Route 19. BERGEN. Bergenhus.
enlarged in the 13th , and used by the Hanseatic merchants as a
German church from 1408 to 1766. The nave is Eomanesque, the
choir Gothic. The elaborately carved pulpit and the altar date from
the 17th century.
The Tydskebrygge is continued to the N.W. by the Fasinings-
hrygge (PL B, 1, 2), at which the large deep-sea steamers lie. The
entrance to the harbour here is defended by the old fortress of —
/T Bergenhus (PI. B, C, 1, 2), with Valkendorf's Taarn and the
I Kongehal (open free, 11-1 ; entr. at the Fwstningsbrygge, near Brod-
bsenken). Valkendorf's or the Rosenkrantz Tower, originally built
by Haakon Haakonssen , extended by Rosenkrantz in 1565, and
restored in 1848, consists in fact of two towers, of which that on
the N. is the more modern. Several balls built info the walls and
gilded commemorate an unsuccessful attempt of the English fleet
i to capture the Dutch fleet which had sought refuge in the harbour
I in 1665. T he int erior of the tower serves as an ars enal (adm..25'P'.l .
t The t^ (reached by a wretched winding staircasej affQrd§,.jiijid-
'• miral)le "survey' of the harbour and the town. Behind this tower
is Kongehallen, or the King's Hall, of the 13th cent., with a large
festal hall (restored). — Above the fortress of Bergenhus rise the
insignificant remains of the ancient Soerresborg (PI. 0, 1).
On the S.W. side of the harbour, between it and the Puddefjord,
the peninsula of Nordnaes (PI. A, 1, 2) projects far into the sea.
On the summit rises Fi>rl Frederiksherg, now the fire-watch. On the
!N.W. side of the fort are the Observatory and the Hospital. The
large and conspicuous brick buildings on the N. side are the Se-
inandshu!>, an asylum for old salts and their widows and a school-
house. At the end of the peninsula are promenades with benches
coramanding fine sea-views.
A new quarter with broad and regular streets has sprang up
within the last few decades around the Lille Lungegaardsvand (PI.
C, 3, 4). On the "W. side of this lake extends the small Toun
Park, where a band plays daily (except Sun.) in summer from 12.30
I to 1.30, and frequently also from 8 to 11 p.m. To the W. of the
I park, between the Grand Cafe (Pi. x) and the Norge Hotel (PI. a),
I stands an allegorical Monume nt tp_Qle.Bull, the violinist (1810-80 ;
I see p. 118 \ by Stephan Sinding, erected in 1901. — To the S. of
the Town Park is the —
rVestlandske Museum (PI. C, 3), built by Henr. Bucher in 1894-
97, with a bronze statue of the painter Dahl (p. 118), by Ambrosia
Tiinnesen, on the facade. On the groundfloor of the museum (left)
are a Fisheries Museum (open on Sun., "Wed., & Frid., 11-2) and
(right) a permanent exhibition of industrial art (open free, daily,
11-2 & 4-6); while the first and second floors accommodate the
Vestland Industrial Museum (open daily, 1 1-2 & 4-6 ; adm. on Tues.,
Museums. BERGEN. 19. Route. 121
Tburs., & Sun. 25 C. other days free) aud the Municipal PictureJ
Gallery (open daily, 11-2, free).
The Inddstkial Mdseum contains furniture and wood-carvings of the
15-18th cent., gild and silver plate, porcelain, Korwegian tapestry, netted
work, silver i rnaments, copper and tin utensils, articles of clotbing, etc.
The Picture Gallkkt includes e.xaniples of Bodoiii, Eckersberg, Tida-
mand, Gtide, A'ordenberg, Itrfmussen, Fritz T/iaulo'P, etc. Among earlier
works may be noted: 272. A. R. Menc/s, Cartuon of the Etitomlnnent; 273.
Carstens, The inhabitants of Riigen seeking to purchase their independ-
ence from Holstein (drawing). — The exhibition of the Bergen Art Union
(Knnst/orening) is also shown here ('/^l^r.; changed from time to time).
Christies-Gaden runs to the S. between the Vestlandske M\i-\
seum and the Raihray Station, passing the Roman Catholic Church \
of St. Paul, to the Sydnceshoiig, an eminence on which rises the — \
Bergen Museum (PI. G, 4), containing antiquarian and natural
history collections and a library. The central block was erected in
1865 \)Y Nehelom), the wings were added in 1897 'by Sparre. — Adni.
daily, 11-2 and 4-6; 250. on Tues., Thurs., & Sat., other days free.
On the grounclfloor is the collection of Norse Antiquities (good
catalogue, with illustrations, hy Lorange, 50 0.), chiefly from W. Norway.
In the entrance-hall, on the right, two carved church • portals from the
Sognedal; then, ecclesiastical vessels and pictures, a fine altar-piece in
carved oak with wings, of the 16th cent., tankards, porcelain, furniture j
(mostly Dutch); also prehistoric curiosities. — The Natdkal Histokt Col- ,
LECTION (first and second floors; catalogue 25 0.) comprises a very com-;
plete set of specimens of Norwegian fish and marine animals (skeleton'
<if a huge whale, etc.).
Tlie garden contains a bust of Z)r. G. A Hansen (the discoverer of the
bacillus of leprosy), a large hot-house, a 'Bunic Hall', with 'bautastenar'
and tombstones, and an old timber house.
On the bill to the W. of the museum rises the conspicuous
Church of St. John (PI. B, C, 4), a large Gothic brick building
\\ith a lofty tower, erected in 18i)0-9.^ from plans by H. Backer.
To the E. of the museum is an attractive residential quarter,
through wliich we may pass to the Nygaards Park ( PI. C, 4, 5),
with line views. On the S. side of the grounds, opposite Holmen,!
are a pavilion where a band plays (Sun., 5-7) and a caft5. — Outside!
theS. gate of the park, on a bay of theSolheimsvik, is aw Aquarium]
(PI. C, 5; Danielssen's Biological Station), open daily (except Sat.)
from May till the end of August, 11-2 and 4-7 (20 ier.). The salt-
watertanks outside the building contain seals, dolphins, sea-birds, etc.
We may return by the electric tramway (p. 116) from the neighbouring
Kygaards-Bro (Pi. D, 5). Beneath this bridge flows the Store Slrem, which
connects the Store Lungcgaardsvand with the &'oVieiinsvik and the Pudde-
fjord. The tide flows in and out of this 'stream'.
To the N.E. of the Torv extends the Vetrlids Alitienning, aud
here, opposite the market mentioned at p. 119, begins Kong-
Oskaus-Oaden (PI. G, D, 2, 3), whi(h runs towards the S.E. In
this street stands tlie Korfkirke (PI. C, 3), or Church of the Cross,
founded about 1170 but datitig in its present form from 1593.
A monument behind the church commemorates the Norwegians who
fell in the naval battle of the Alve (May 16th, 1808). — Farther to
the 8.E. is the Cathedral (PI. D 3; St.Olaf i Vaagsbunden, i.e. 'at
122 Route 19. BERGEN. Environs.
the end of the harbour'), oiiginally a monastery-church, erected in
1248, rebuilt in 1537, and restored in 1870. It consists of a nave
and S. aisle only. Fine Gothic windows and portal in the lower story
of the tower. — Kong-Oskars-Gaden then passes the Technical
School (PI. 11) and ends at the Stadsport (PI. D, 3; dating from
about 1630), outside which lie the old cemeteries of Bergen.
Outside the Stadsport Kong-Oskars-Gaden is prolonged by
the Kalfarvei (PL D, E, 3, 4), which is lined by pleasant villas
in luxuriant gardens. There are some fine trees in the plantation
named Forskjennelsen. On the right are the Pleiestiftelse (^P].E. 4),
a hospital for lepers, and the Lungegaards Hospital. A little farther
on is the terminus of the electric tramway.
The best view of Bergen and its environs (especially by morn-
ing-light") is commanded by the *I^'eldyei (PL D, E, 2, 3), a road
halfway up the side of the -wooAed Fleifjeld (^. 117J. This may
be reached in 15-20 min. either from the Vetrlids - Almenning
(PI. C, 2; a station of the electric tramway from the Nygaards-Bro
to Sandviken) or from the Kalfarvei (PI. E, 4; a station of the
Smaastrand-Gadeu and Kalfaret tramway; we ascend to the left
opposite the 'Brand -Telegraf of the Pleiestiftelse). The finest
point is marked by a semicircular terrace with benches (385 ft.;
PI. D, 2), above the cathedral. The N. prolongation of the Fjeldvei
descends through the Skrcedderdal to the suburb of Sandviken
(PL C, D, 1), whence we return to the town by the electric tram-
• way. The whole excursion takes 11/2 ^^•
The view is more extensive from the *FIflrieii (825 ft. ; PI. D, 2),
a hill ascended from the Fjeldvei by a winding road in 30-40
minutes. On the top are a conspicuous iron vane, which has given
name to the hill, and a good Restaurant (p. 116).
The road continues to ascend in windings for about 2 M. more and
ends higb above Svartediget (see below) with a fine survey of the lake-
studded valley uf Fjasanger (p. 123), extending to the mountainous islets
at the mouth of the Hardanger Fjord (best by evening-light). A new
footpath leads hence to the left to the (.Omin.). *Blaamanden (1805 ft.),
now the most accessible of the mountains round Bergen, commanding a
wide view of the coast-islands and the open sea.
We may continue to follow the Kalfarvei (see above), leading from
the terminus of the Smaastrand-Gaden and Kalfaret tramway (p. 116;
No. 2) to the Store Lungegaardsvand, and to Fleen and Mellen-
dalen (PL F, 5), with the new cemetery, from either of which places
we may return by one of the steam-launches starting every V2 ^'■*
The road diverging to the left 5 min. from the Pleiestiftelse
(from which in turn another road leads to the left to the Cafe-Restau-
rant Bellevue; PL F, 4) leads to the Kalvedal, in which, 1 M.
farther on, is Svartediget (PL G, 4), a lake whence Bergen is sup-
plied with water. Grand scenery; to the S.E. towers ULrlken.
About 1/2 tr. farther on is Isdalen, a picturesque gorge. — We
may return via the farm of Aarstad (PI. G, 5) to Fleen, or to the
, Kalfarvei, and thence by electric tramway to Bergen.
Environs. BERGEN, 19. Route. 123
A trip may be taken from the quay oi Nestet (PI. B, 3) by steam-ferry
(every '/< ^r. ; 5 0., after 9 p.m. 10 0.) across the Puddefjovd to Lalcse-
vaag I with its large shipbuilding-yards and dry docks (p. 119). We then
walk to the pretty Gravdal at the foot of the Lyderhorn (1350 ft.), which i
may easily be ascended, or to the E. along the fjord, passing pleasant vil-y
las, to Soiheimsviken (see below) and to the Nygaards-Bro (PI. D, 5; p. 121).'
The ascent of ''L0vstaken (15G0 ft.) from the terminus of the electric '
tramway at the Xiigaards-Bro (PI. I), 5: p. 116; No. 1) takes 1^4 br., there
and back 3 hrs. \Ve cross the bridge, lake the first street to the right in
Soiheimsviken (see below), and follow the footpath straight on where the road
forks ; after 5 niin. we turn to the right, and 100 paces farther on to the
left, through wood, whence we gain the (1V4 hr.) summit by an easy
zigzag path. The summit commands an extensive panorama and from its I
S. margin we enjoy an unimpedtd view of the Folgefond on the S.E.
Another good point of view is Ulriken (2105 ft.). From the Kalfarvei
(p. 152) we follow (he road to the S., which crosses the M0llendals-Elv and
(leaving the church oi Aarstad to the right) passes the gaards oi Hcmkeland
and Vognstol. Crossing the streamlet flowing to the little Haukelandsvund
(not to be confounded with the lake mentioned on p. 124), we take the
road leading to the left to the gaard of Liegdene (about 1 hr. from Bergen).
Farther on the way up the mountain (2i/2 hrs.) is marked by white posts
tipped with red. On the summit are two stone pyramids. The nearer
.'^ummit (1990 ft.) is the best point of view.
A charming drive (there and back 2'/2 hrs. ; see p. 116) may he taken to
the beautiful estate of Fantoft, belonging to Mr. Slohr (German consul),
who usually admits visitors to the grounds (enquire beforehand in Bergen).
An old 'Stavekirke' from Fortun (p. 151) has been re- erected here in
18S4, but is freely restored (there is no trace of a Lop, or open arcade;
comp. p. 29). The pavilion higher up commands a beautiful view of the
Nordaasvand. Fantoft is about 2 M. from the rail, station of Fjesanger
(guide desirable in coming from the station). Travellers who wish to
lunch or dine in the neighbouring "Birkelund Restaurant should order
their meal beforehand by telephone.
To the bathing-resort of Solstrand, near 0.«, see p. 12J.
A pleasant trip may be taken by steamboat (thrice daily from Mural
menning, PI. C 2; fare 80 0.) to the (1 hr.) Askje*, a large island in the
Skjsergaard, to the N.W. of Bergen, where the Udsigt {Dyrteigen, V2 hr.)
commands a splendid view of the sea and coast.
20. From Bergen via Vossevangen to the Hardanger
Fjord, or to the Sognefjord.
Kailwav ('Vossebane') to Vvssevangen ^ 108 Kil., in 4 hrs. 20 min.
(fares 7 kr. 70, 3 kr. 85 0.). The railway is now being continued high up
the field and is to be carried through to the Kraderen I ake (p. 44) via,
the Hallingdal. — Eoads from Vossevangen to Eide (30 Kil.) and Uhik
(51 Kil.), on the Hardanger Fjord, and to Gudvangen (48 Kil), with fast
skyds-stations.
The R.^iLW'AY (station, see p. 115; views mostly to the left)
passos throtigli a short tunnel and crosses the Store Strmn. —
2 Kil. Soiheimsviken^ the industrial S. suburb of Bergen (sec above),
lies on the bay of that name at the foot of Levstaken (see above).
We pass several small lakes. — 6 Kil. Fjesanger, with villas , on
the Nordaasuand, with its charming islets. Near the station, on the
hill to the left, is the villa of llerr Mohr, the German consul.
About 1/2 lir. farther to the S., not seen from the station, is his
estate of Fantoft (see above).
124 Route 20. GARN^S. From Bergen
8 Kil. Hop. — The train ascends to (9 Kil.~) Nestun or Nedsttun
(104 ft.; HcteL Nestun; Rail. Restaurant^ near the skyds-station of
Midttin, where marhle is quarried. Tlie high level of the line affords
a line -view across the Nestunyvand to the slopes of Ulriken.
A hvancb-iailway runs from Kestun to (20 Kil.) Os or Oseren, on the
BJerne/Jord, 1 M. from which is the large and pleasant seaside hotel of
Solstrand (two houses; English spoken; pens. 5-6 kr.), commanding a
beautiful view of the fjorii, extending to the distant Fulgefond (p. lO'l).
Excursions may be made hence to Hal^iken, the Lysekloster (p. 101), and the
Ulvenvand. — A local steamer plies between Bergen and Ose.
The train crosses the Nestun-Elv by a high bridge (views right
and left), turns to the N.E. into the pretty Langedal, ascends
rapidly, threads two tunnels, and crosses the river twice more.
15 Kil. Heldal, a little to the S. of the Grimenvand. Two tunnels.
Beyond the Haukelands- Vand we reach (18 Kil.) Huukeland (265 ft.),
at its N. end, the highest point on the line. In descending thence
we overlook the brawling stream which issues from the lake.
25 Kil. Arne (65 ft.), with a church, at the S. end of the
Arnevaag, a narrow branch of the Serfjord.
29 Kil. Garnaes (65 ft. ; Rail. Restauranf), on the Serfjord. Op-
posite rises the church of Hnus on the Ostere, a large island which
bounds the Serfjord on the N. and remains in view till we reach
Staughelle. The engineering of the line on the S. bank of the Ser-
fjord is very interesting. Eleven short tunnels between Garnjes and
the next station.
39 Kil. Trengereid (60 ft.; M. Trengereid's Inn). The Gulfjeld
(3235 ft.; extensive panorama) may be ascended hence (5 hrs.,
there and back; landlord acts as guide, 4 kr.).
A post-road leads from Trengereid, passing between the Gulfjeld and
Kraaen (2145 ft.), to (11 Kil.) Aadland (Jnn, very fair), on the bay of that
name at the N. end of the Sammanger Fjord, visited twice weekly by a
steamer from Bergen. Row to T0sse, and walk thence to Norheimsund,
see p. 105.
The train rounds the promontory, which separates the S. from
the E. arm of the Serfjord and culminates in the Hanenip (2440 ft.)
and the Raiinip (2475 ft.). Ten tunnels. Across the fjord, here
only 550 yds. broad, we still see the Oster0, on which rises the
church of Brudvtk. Above it towers the Brudviksnip (2945 ft.).
On the pretty Olsnces-0 a new school has been built. The train
crosses the Vaxdals-Elv , which has a fall above the bridge (right)
and drives a large mill lower down.
51 Kil. Vaxdal (50 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant). Five tunnels, the
longest penetrating the Hattaparti.
59 Kil. Stanghelle. The train leaves the Serfjord , crosses the
Dalevaag, skirts the W. bank of the latter, and ascends the Bals-
Elv. To the right rise steep cliffs.
^Q li.i\. Ji&le (Gullachsen's Hotel; Rail. Restaurant)., from which
a short line of rails runs to Jebseii's large cloth-factory, lies at the
mouth of the Bergsdal.
to the Hardanger Fjord. V08S. 20. Route. 125
A new '-Road, parsing through several (unuels in the rock, leads from
Dale to {6 Kil.) Foste, the highest gaard in the Bergsdal. Thence a poor
road goes on via Redland and the Lien-Saeler to the (20-22 Kil.) Hamlegre
Hotel, on the S. bank of the nnmlegrevand (1940 ft ; 8 51. in length), which
abounds in lish. Thencj to the Fikscnsund, see p. 105.
Beyond Dale the train passes through nine tunnels, one of them
the longest (1410 yds.) on the line ; charming views of the fjord be-
tween these. The train now reaches the S. bank of the Bolstad-Fjord.
78Kil.Bolstad(30 ft.; Inn), at the E. end of the fjord, enclosed
by rocky hills. — Eight tunnels. The train ascends the left bank
of the Vosse-ELv, which forms several rapids, and then skirts the
S. bank of the Evangervand, affording picturesque views of the
wooded hills on the N. side. Near Evanger, to the left, lies Fadnas,
at the entrance to the Teidal (p. 132).
88 Kil. Evanger (50 ft.; Monsen's Hotel, well spoken of), at
the head of the lake. The village with its church lies on the oppo-
site bank of the Vosse-Elv, which here enters the Evangervand.
To the S. towers the Myklethveitvete (3740 ft.), ascended from
Evanger in 2-3 hrs. (extensive view; guide, Jacob A. Evavger).
The train follows the left bank of the Vos»e-Elv, with its occa-
sional lake-like reaches, crosses it, and passes through the fifty-
second and last tunnel to (99 Kil.)Bolken, situated at the efflux of
the Vosse-Elv from the Vangsvand (148 ft.). A suspension-bridge
crosses the river to Liland's Hotel (very fair; English spoken).
Fr.m Bolken via Grime^tad and Skjeldal to the HamUgrevand and
thence on to the Fiksensund (Hardanger), see p. 105.
Skirting the N. bank of the Vangsvand, we see, to the S. , the
long crest of Graasiden (4270 ft.), with its large patches of snow.
108 Kil. VOSS. — Eailavat Station to the W. of the village, 55 ft.
above it.
Hotels. "FLEiscnER's Hotel, in an open situation outside the village
and immediately to the W. of the station, often crowded, R. 2-3. B. l-lV'ji
d^j. (12 o'cl ) 2, D. (2 p.m.) 21/2, S. (8 p.m.) 2, pen'^. 5-7 kr.-. with baths
and skyds-ftation. — To the E. of the station, in the village, Vossevangen
HoTEi., by the church, very fair, R. I'/z^'/s, B. or S. Vjz, D. 2, pens. 5 kr. ;
opposite, David Pk.t.stkgaard's, fair. R. li/4-lV2> ^- or S. I'A- !>• 2 kr. ;
Michelsen's, unpretending, at the upper end of the village, farther from
the station. — Qu;irtcrs may also be obtained in lodging-houses, indicated
by tickets. — English Church Service in the season.
Post Office neir the entrance to the village, in the street leading to
the left from tlie chemists. — Telegraph Office, with telephone, opposite
the JC. side of the church.
Carriages are usually engaged here for the whole journey to Eide.
Vlvik. or Oudvangen, to save delav in changing horses: stolkjaerre to
Eide 7 kr. 65 0., to Vlvik 13, to Staiheim 91/2, to Gudvangen 121/2 kr. —
Two horse carriages for 2, 3, 4, or 5 pers., to Eide 12, 15, 18, or 20 kr. ;
to rivik 24, 28, 32, or 36 kr. ; to Vinje 10, 12, 14, or 16 kr. ; to Opheim
12, 15, IS, or 20 kr. ; to Staiheim 16, 20, 24, or 28 kr. ; to Gudvangen 25,
30, 36, or 40 kr. (driver's fee in each case extra). The charge should be
agreed on beforehand. — Motor-cars may also be hired to Staiheim
(1 pers. 10, 2 perj. 15 kr ).
Voss or Vossevangen (177 ft.), charmingly situated at the E. end
of the Vangsvand, is suited for some stay. The stone Church, in
126 R. 20. — Map, p. 124. VOSS. From Bergen
the middle of the village, dating from 1271-76, contains memorial
tablets to pastors of the 17th and 18th cent. , a candelabrum of
1733, and a Bible of 1589. L. Holberg, the poet (p. 118), was tutor
at the parsonage in 1702. At the upper end of Voss the road
divides : left to 'Gudvangen, Sogn'; right to 'Eide, Hardanger'.
The environs of Vossevangen are admirably cultivated. Many
large farms and several pleasant villas. Although the mountains
are near, cultivation has taken more complete possession of the plain
than in almost any other part of Norway.
About 1/2 M. to the W. of Fleisclier''s Hotel, on the upper road diverg-
ing to the right from the Bergen road, is the farm of Fin, heside which
is preserved the Finneloft, a timber-house bnilt in 1300. ('Loft' or 'Bur'
is a two-storied farm-house , as opposed to the 'Stue', or house of one
story.) The lower story of Finnelottet is in the shape of a blockhouse, the
upper story in frame-work. There is no inside staircase. The interior
contains a few rustic antiquities (adm. iQ0.').
The following is a pleasant Walk of I1/2 hr. from Voss. A path
leads to the S. from the church, skirting the upper end of the Vangs-
vand and running partly through pine-woods , to the (10 min.) RundaU-
Elv, the E. discharge of the lake, which we cross by boat (5 0. each pers.).
On the left bank we ascend to the road leading uphill, and follow it
through wood and across a wooden bridge, and then in rapid curves
to (1/2 hr.) the Cafi Breidahlik , whence there is a fine view of Vosse-
vangen and its environs. — The road on the other side of the valley
continues to ascend to (3-4 Kil. from Breidahlik) Herre and (7-8 Kil.) Eogn.
The ascent of the Lanehorje (4680 ft.), to the N. of Voss, is ea'^y and
attractive (5 hrs., there and hack 8 hrs. ; guide 3 kr.). A road, diverging
from the (Sudvangen road a few yds. to the K. of the church of Vosse-
vangen, leads via Ringheim (p. 128) and Traae to the Klepfoeter. Thence a
footpath ascends over pastures and loose stones (difficult at places) to the
S.W. summit (commanding a picturesque view of Vossevangen), and then
across a slightly sloping snow field to the higher E. summit, whence the
view embraces the mountains to the N. as far as the Jostedalsbrfe, to
the E. to the Hardanger Jakul, and to the S. to the Folgefond.
Another grand view is obtained from the HondaUnul (4800 ft.), the
ascent of which also takes about 5 hrs.
From Voss, or from Bolken (p. 125), via Grimestad and Skjeldal (6 Kil. ;
road thus far) to the Hamlegrevand and on to J0stensei on the Hardanger
Fjord, see p. 105.
From Vossevangen to Eide or Ulvik on the Hardanger Fjord
(3 and 572 ^rs. drive respectively; carriages, see p. 125). — The
road crosses the Bundals-Elv and ascends its left bank, through a
beautiful wooded tract, passing several gaards. It then turns into
a side-valley and beyond the gaard of 11-12 Kil. from Vossevangen)
Male reaches its highest point (870 ft.). It then descends gradually
and crosses the boundary of the Hardanger district. The Skjerve-
Elv, flowing S., is coloured dark-brown by a number of marshy
ponds. The upper part of the valley terminates suddenly, and the
road descends in zigzags into * Skjervet, a deep and picturesque
valley enclosed by imposing rocks. On the left the Skjervefos
descends in two halves, the upper resembling a veil. The road
crosses a bridge between the two parts of the fall. Below the bridge
is the Caf6 Fosheim. Rich vegetation. Many old moraines.
to Eide. GRAVENSVAND. MiTp, p. 10'2. — 20. B. 127
22 Kil. (pay for 25 in the reverse direction) 0vre Vasendcn
or Seim (NsBsheim's Hotel, very fair, D. Vj^ kr.) is situated at the
N. end of the Gravensvand, and commands a fine view of the entire
lake and of the massive Nasheimshorgen (3250 ft.) to the S.W. To
the S. the Oxen (p. 106) becomes visible.
The road to Eide skirts the E. bank of the lake, leaving to the
left both branches of the new road to Ulvik (see below) and also
the Gravens-Kirke. Farther on the road is carried along wooden
viaducts or has been hewn in the rock immediately overhanging the
lake. We pass Nedre Vasenden, at the lower end of the Gravensvand,
traverse a rocky defile, and reach —
8 Kil. Eide (see p. 106) after 3 hrs.' drive from Voss.
From 0vre Vasenden to Ulvik is a charming drive of 8 hrs.
or walk of 41/2 hrs. (times given below refer to walking). The
road diverges to the left from the Eide road about ^/ihr. from Nffls-
heim's Hotel and ascends in windings. Beyond a stone bridge over
a brook flowing into the Gravensvand it is joined by the branch
from the Gravens-Kirke (S.), which is used by travellers coming
from Eide. Walkers may cut off the next long bend. The road
continues to ascend the valley, above the left bank of the stream.
After 3/4 hr. the farm of Dale, on the opposite side of the valley,
is passed. About 20 mln, farther on, at a point where the Skavs-
karnut rises to the left and the water of a marshy brook flows down
both sides of the ridge, we obtain a fine view of the Vasfjaeren
(p. 116), between the Soienut (1.) and the Kjarringfjeld (r.). In
front lies the Espelandsvand (1125 ft.), the N. shore of which the
road now skirts, passing the Espelandsgaard. To the left, in the
depression between the Skavskarnut and the Sotenut, is a fine
waterfall, the outflow of which is crossed by the road. As we near
the foot of the Espelandsvand the snow-clad ridge of the Onen
(p. Ill) appears in tlie background to the right. Beyond the
Espelandsvand lies the little Siokkevand, drained by the Tyssaa,
which we cross about 1 hr. after beginning the descent. To the right
diverges a road for the Leining-Sakr. The main road continues in
a straight direction along the right bank, crossing to the left bank
at (20 min.) a saw-mill and recrossing in 20 min. more. Below
the latter bridge the river forms the pretty Verafos and throws
itself into a deep ravine. The Vasfjaeren again appears in front,
above the wooded foot-hills. In 1/4 hr. more we suddenly come
upon an enchanting *View of the Ulviksfjord and the mountains
around it. Below lies the church of Ulvik. The road descends the
Hyllaklev in wide curves, some of which the pedestrian may cut oft',
and again crosses (3/4 hr.) to the left bank of the Tyssaa, which
forms a fine fall (saw-mill).
29 Kil. (32 Kil. from Eide) Vlvik (^see p. 114).
128 R. 20. — Maps, pp. 102, 130. STALHEIM. From Vo»s
From VossEVANGEN to Gudvangen on theSognefjord, 48Kil.,
a drive of 5-6 hrs. (carriages, see p. 126); part of the road also
afi'ords pleasant walking. — The road ascends gradually, passes
under the railway, and skirts the W. side of the Lundarvand. On
the left (above), 2 Kil. from Voss, is the gaard ot Ringheim (p. 12(5).
A rich wooded and grassy region. To the left towers the abrupt t^ne-
horje (p. 126), on the right the horn-shaped Hondalsnut (p. 126),
behind us Gnmsiden (p. 125). We pass the small Melsvand, on
the opposite bank of which we observe the gaard of Dukstad (past
which comes another road from Voss, joining the main road at
Tvinde), and also the Lenevand, 4 Kil. long. By the gaard of Lene,
where the road runs close to the lake, we see (left) the Lenefos,
which descends from the Lenehorje and turns a saw-mill. The
road then ascends the Vossestrands-Elv , the feeder of the two lakes.
A new iron bridge, to the right, leads over this stream to the gaard
of Grotland.
12 Kil. Tvinde or Tvinne i Voss (310 ft. ; Tvinde's Hotel, very
fair). On the left is the fine *Tvlndefos. The road becomes steeper.
The valley is enclosed by lofty wooded slate rocks. About 2 Kil.
above Tvinde the Vossestrands-Elv forms a picturesque fall, across
which the road is carried by the Ashrcehke-Bro (435 ft. ; we descend
a few paces to see the fall, using caution). About 4 Kil. farther
up, the road returns to the right bank of the stream. It next crosses
two copious torrents descending from side-valleys on the left. The
second of these, about 2/3 M. from Vinje, is the Merkadals-Elv,
along which a path leads via Aarmot to Vik on the Sognefjord
(10-12 hrs.; p. 132). The valley expands.
10 Kil. Vinje i Vossestranden (735 ft. ; Vinje's Hotel, very fair,
R. 1, B. 1, D. 2, S. l'/4 kr.), in a pleasant situation, not far from
the Vinje- Kirke.
The road ascends the course of the river, through a ravine,
to the S.W. end of the (3 Kil. from Vinje) Opheimsvand (955 ft.;
*Framnas Hotel, R. 11/2-2, D. 2, B. 1 kr. 40, S. 1 kr. 50 0. ; Engl.
Oh. Serv. in Aug.), a lake abounding in fish, and skirts its N.W.
bank. Above the wooded hills of the opposite bank tower mountains
of grey crystalline rock, presenting a curious picture. To the S.
rises the Malmagrensnaave (3610 ft.). The church of Opheim is
prettily situated on the lake, about 4 Kil. from Vinje.
Beyond the Opheimsvand the road crosses the watershed be-
tween the Bolstad-Fjord and the Sognefjord. On the right, the
Aaxeln; then, the Knldafjeld (4265 ft.). We follow the left bank
of the Naredals-Elv, which descends to the Sognefjord, and finally
ascend in a curve, high above the stream, to the —
**Stalheims-Klev (1120 ft.), 14 Kil. from Vinje, 12 Kil. from
Gudvangen, a precipitous rock about 800 ft. high, forming the head
of the Nceredal, which descends on the W. to Gudvangen. The
Hotel on the top, destroyed by fire in 1902, was rebuilt on the
to the Sognefjord. OPS.IilT. Map, p. W2. — 20.R. 129
cottage system in tlie summer of 1903. The view hence of the deep
and sombre Njer«dal and the huge mountains enclosing it, especially
by afternoon-light, is considered one of the grandest in Norway.
On the left is the commanding Jordalsnut {3(^10 ft.; p. 138), on
the right are the KaUhifjeld and Aaxeln (p. 128), all of light-
grey syenite rock. In the distance the background of the valley is
formed by the hill from which the Kilefos near Gudvangen descends
(p. 138). We also enjoy a fine view, looking to the S., of the broad
valley towards Opheim. The river descending thence forms the
Stalheimsfos, which, however, does not come in sight until we
descend into the Nacradal (p. 138).
The hill rising to the IS'.W. of the hotel is the Stal/ieimsmit, to the E. of
which a green dale runs towards the N., traver.= ed by a narrow road.
Friim (10 min.) Brakke, the first gaard in this vailey, a fine mountain
path, called 'Naaltne^ diverges to the right, and is well worth following
for V- ^r. The Naalene fir.-t descends a litile, then crosses the bridge
over the gorge whence issues the Sivlefos (p. 139), and leads along the
heights, with a charming view of the ravine of Stalheim. Ihe path goes
on to the gaard. Jordal, from which the Joidalsnut may be ascended (with
guide: Anders Olsen Gudvangen or Ole Myren). — The Brcekkenipa , as-
cended in 3 hrs., there and back (guide 3 kr.), is a fine point of view.
There is no skyds-station at Stalheim, but conveyances may
:ilways be had (^1 pers. 2 kr. 55 , 2 pers. 3 kr. 83 e.). The steep
curves into the valley should be descended on foot. The road to
Gudvangen (see p. 138) affords a pleasant ramble of 2Y4-23/4 hrs.
From Vossevangen to Fbetheim on the Sognefjoru. This
route v.-ill probably become popular on tl'.e completion of the railway
to Vatnahalsen. At present it takes II/2 day, aud the middle portion
must be traversed on foot. — The road diverges to the left from the
Hardanger road (p. 126) and ascends through the Rimdal or Raundal,
on the right bank of the Rxind'ils-Eh\ frequently intersecting the
railway. Part of the route, the old 'Sverresti' by which King Sverre
and his THrkebcner' (p. 1) are said to have crossed the mountains
in 1177, is very hilly. To the right rises the Horndalsnut (p. 126).
Before and beyond (lOKil.) Klyve. with its old Tofthus' (see p. 126),
we cross the railway, then thread a picturesque ravine, traverse
wood, and again skirt the railway. Beyond Skjeple (1233 ft.) v.e
once more cross the railway and pass the gaards of Brekke, Reime,
and Hcgg. Near Kggereid (1850 ft. ; 30 Kil. from Yossevangen) we
cross the railway for the last time ai\d follow the new road below
it. passing Almindiri'ien. Klevene, tlie Lange Vcnid, and the small
Runde Varid.
47 Kil. (a drive of G'/o-^ hrs. from Voss) Opsaet (2850 ft. ; Op-
scft's H'^tel, unpretending, K., B., or S. 1 kr.), with the dwelling of
tlie engineers engaged in the construction of the railway and several
cottages for the navvies. (Tliose who wish to drive hence to Voss
must telephone to Vos* for skyds.) Close by is the W. entrance of
the tunnel, upwards of 3 M. in length, which was driven through the
Baedekee's I^orway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 9
130 Route '21. SOGNEFJORD,
Gravahals in 1897-1902 for the passage of the Bergen and Christiania
Railway.
From Opsset by the Slotidah-Saiire, on the Slondalsvand, then past the
Brione-Smter and over tUe watershed to the Solsivand and on to Ulvik
(p. 114), 8V'2-9V2 hrs. (a toilsome sftter-track).
From Opsset we proceed to Vatnahalsen (3-31/2 hrs.) by a foot-
path, which at places is boggy and unpleasant. It traverses a bleak
mountain-region, passing a few lakes, to (ca. 2 hrs.) the top of the
pass crossing the Gravehals (3720 ft.). The stony and winding de-
scent passes over some siiow-flelds. At (8/4 hr.) the fork (to the
left the way to Kaardal, p. 140) we follow the right branch (finger-
post), which leads along the slope. In 1/0 hr. we cross a foot-bridge
over the Myrdals-Elv, near the E. mouth of the tunnel. Hence we
follow the new road to (1/4 hr.) —
Vatnahalsen (2625 ft.-, Vatnahalsen s Hotel, very fair, R. 2,
B. or S. 11/2, D- 21,2 kr.), with a fine view of both sides of the
valley. This will probably become a great tourist-centre on the
opening of the railway. A short way up the valley- is the small
Reinungvand, the outflow of which forms the Kjosfos.
The road skirting the Reinungvand leads to (16 Kil.) HalUngsskeiet
(p. 49), whence it is to be continued to the Hallingdal.
From Vatnahalsen to (19 Kil.) Fretheim, on the Aur lands fjord,
a downhill walk of 21/0 hrs., see p. 139.
21. The Sognefjord.
The distance by sea from Bergen to LcerdaUeren at the E. end of the
fjord (starting-point of the routes to Christiania through the Valders and
through the Hallingdal , KR. 8, 7) is 31 Is^orwegian sea-miles in a .straight
direction. The Steamboats perform the voyage in 1572-24 hrs., according
to the number of stations called at. These vessels are well fitted np and
have good restaurants (B. 1 kr. 40 0., D. 2 kr.), but their berths are
limited. Those who have to spend a night on board should lose no time
in securing a sofa or a stateroom. — Comp. p. xviii.
The * Sognefjord (from the old word 'Sogne', a narrow arm of
the sea), the longest of all the Norwegian fjords, measures 180 Kil.
(112 m.) from Sognefest to Skjolden, averages 6 Kil. (4 M.) in
width, and is nearly 4000 ft. deep at places. Like all the other
fjords, it is unattractive at its entrance, where the rocks have been
worn smooth, partly by the action of the waves, and partly by the
enormous glaciers which once covered the whole country. The
scenery improves as we go E., until the fjord ends in a number of
long narrow arms, with banks rising abruptly at places to 5000 ft.,
from which waterfalls descend. At the heads of the N. branches
of the fjord appear the glaciers covering the plateau. The
JosiedalsbrcF ('Brs', glacier), to the N., is the largest glacier in
Europe (350 sq. M.). In other parts of the fjord the narrow banks
present a smiling character, being fringed with luxuriant orchards
and waving corn-fields, and studded with pleasant dwellings. In
■im> 1-/-^ A F
^issi "Ji1^^^*"''^"'\-
SOGNEFJORD. 21. Route. 131
tlie grandeur of its mountains and glaciers tlie Sognetjord surpasses
the Hardanger, tut its general character is severe and at places
monotonous, while its southern rival unquestionably carries off the
palm for its softer scenery and its splendid waterfalls.
The Climate of the W. Sognefjord, as far as the point where its
great ramifications begin, is the same as that of the W. coast, being
rainy and mild in winter and damp and cool in summer. Nowhere in
Norway is the rapid decrease of the rainfall from W. to E. so marked
as in the Sognefjord. At Sognefest, at the entrance to the fjord (sec
below), the annual rainfall is about 80 inches, on the Fjserlands-
fjord (56 M. from the coast) bO, on the Nffirafjord ( 70 M.) 31, on the
Lysterfjord (SO M.) 19, and at Leerdal (87 M.) 16 inches only. In
these E. arms the climate resembles that of inland European coun-
tries, a short and warm summer being succeeded by a long and
severe winter. In winter, however, these arms are only partly
frozen over.
The following description generally follows the order of the
stations touched at by the Nordre Bergenhusamts steamers, but
their route varies on different trips. There are two lines of steamers,
one starting from Bergen , the other confining itself to the fjord.
The distances of the chief stations from each other are given in
Norwegian sea-miles (comp. p. vi).
a. The W. Sognefjord, to Balholm at the mouth of the
Fjserlandsfjord.
Steamboat from Bergen to Balholm 5 times a week in IOI/2-I3V2 hrs.
(fare 10 kr. 20 0.); to Vadheim only, 8-IO1/2 lirs. {T kr. 70 0.; to Lferdal,
12 kr. 60 0.); from Vadheim to Balholm, 4 kr. The fjord-steamer (see above)
plies twice weekly from Vadheim.
Bergen, see p. 115. The voyage to the mouth of the Sognefjord
is of little interest. It carries us through the 'Skjaergaard' fringing;
the district of Nord-Horiand, which with S^nd-Horland (p. 100)
formed the ancient Herdafylke. The low and generally bare hills
in the foreground have been worn down by the glaciers of the ice
period; in the distance rises a higher chain. The steamer threads
some very narrow straits.
•The first stations Alverstrem and Lygren are rarely touched at.
More important isSkjarjehavn, at the N. end of the Sonde. Then,
Eivindvik or Evenvik, on the small Gulenfjord, the ancient meeting-
place of the Ouliithhig. This was one of the four great Norwegian
'Things' (Frostuthing, Gulathing, Borgarthing, and Eidsifathing)
suppressed by King Magnus Lagabeter (p. li).
At the mouth of the Sognefjord lie tlie Sulen-0er, the 'Sol-
undare' of Frithjof's Saga, a groxip of islands with hills rising to
1830 ft. (about 5 Kil. to the left of the steamboat).
On the mainland, to the right, lies the station of Sognefest or
Sygnefest, to the E. of which rises the Stanglandsfjeld.
d*
132 R.2l. — Maj>,p.l30. V]K. Sognefjord.
On the N. bank we observe the Lihest (2275 ft.). On the same
bank are the stations of Befjord or Lervik and, beyond the pro-
montory of Varholm, Ladvik or Lavik, the chief place in the W. Sogn
district, with a church.
On the S. bank lie Brakke, on the small RL'efjord, and Tradal
or Tredal, on the Eikefjord, at which the steamers call alternately
with the stations on the N. bank just named.
The scenery improves. The mountains become higher. We
enter the pleasant Vadheimsfjord on the N. bank and call at —
19 S.M. (from Bergen) Vadheim (^Vadhelm's Hotel, fair, R., B.
or S. 11/2 kr.), situated at the mouth of two valley?, through one of
which ("W.) runs the o\erland route to the Nordfjord (K. 24). The
veranda of the inn overlooks the fjord. To the W. is a waterfall
with a group of houses adjacent, above which rises the Norevikshei.
On the S. side of the fjord, opposite the Vadheimsfjord, opens
the picturesque Fuglsatfjord^ with the station oi Bjordal, called at
once weekly, and the pyramidal Graafjcld.
On the rocky N. bank lies the pleasant village of Kirkebe^ with
its church, near the mouth of the Hejangsfjord, past which we
steer. Then Maaren, prettily situated, with a waterfall, and the
small Lom'fjord. Next, Nase, or Nesse, and Sage, with a fine
waterfall.
On the S. bank lie Ortnevik and Sylvarn(r)> or Selvarnaes ; then
Neset, on the Arne fjord , with its fine mountain-background. At
these places the steamers usually call once a week only.
As we steer farther K., the beauty of the scenery becomes more
striking. The mountains, rising to upwards of 3000 ft., assume
picturesque forms and are clothed with vegetation to their summits,
while between them peep occasional expanses of snow. The steamers
call at Kvamse on the N. bank once weekly. They next steer to
the S., round a promontory at the mouth of the small bay of Vik,
where we observe a 'Gilje' and other salmon-flshing appliances, to —
7 S.M. Vik or Vikseren {Hopstock, very fair), lying in a fertile
region at the mouth of two valleys, the Bodnl on the W. and the
Ofriddal on the E., with its branch the Seljedal. Snow-mountains
form the background; to the E. rises Rambteren fp. 136). The old
churches of Iloperstad and Hove, the former a 'stavekirke' (p. 29)
of the early 13th cent., both restored in 1891, are interesting. In
the neighbourhood is a large military exercise-ground.
From Vik we may drive inlimd about 8 Kil. in any one of three different
directions, in order to cross one of the mountain-passes (about 8hrs. each):
to Slalheim (p. 128; the last part of the route passing the Jordalsnut,
fatiguing tjnt interesting); or to Yinje i Vossestranden (p. 128; part of
the road before Aarmoi is entirely destroyed, a ferious consideralion for
indiflerent walkers, but we may drive the last 11 Kil. fiom Aarmot onwards,
passing the Jlyrkedalsvand); or to Gulhraa in the Exingdal (with guide)
and on to Ncesheim (nightquarters at Jac. Larsen's), tlience proceeding
next day over the fjeld to (about 10 \\.\\.') Aarhxis i Tcidalen, whence a car-
riage-road descends the Teidalio Fadnces on the Evangervrnd (p. 125).
Sognefjcrd. BALHOLM. Map,p. J30. — 21 . U. 138
The Sognefjord here tunis at a right angle to the N. In the dis-
tance, even from Vik, we observe the Vetlefjordsbrse (p. loi). The
passage to Balholm takes about 3/^ hr. On our right lies Vangsnas,
on a promontory where the fjord again turns towards the E. The
W. bank being the supposed scene of Frithjof s Saga, as rendered
by Tegne'r, Vangsnres is siid to have beeii Fritlijof's Framnas.
2 iS.M. Balholin. — Hotels [ illen over-crowdedj. "Kvikne's Hotel,
nearest the pier, with a fiood bath-house on the lake, R. 2-3, B. l'/-..,
D. 2V4 S. iV'-j kr. ; "Hotel Balestkand, a few yards farther on, also with
bath-house, a trifle cheaper. — Physician, Dr. Groth, between the two
hotels. — Boats may be obtained at the hotels (50 0. per hr.). — English
Church Service in summer.
Balholm, the chief place on the fertile and highly cultivated
Baltitrand, is beautifully situated to the S. of the mouth of the
small Essefjord. Its well-wooded environs (numerous apple and
pear trees), the view over the wide Sognefjord, and the many
pleasant walks make it a desirable residence; and it is frequented
by numerous British, Norwegian, and German guests.
A pleasant and well-made road, overlooking the fjord, leads
from the hotels, past the English Church of St. 0/«/'(1897j and
several houses, to a (^ /o M.) mound, with a large birch-tree and
a modern 'bautasten', pointing it out as the tomb of King Bele of
the Frithjofs Saga. The road goes on, shaded at places by tall
trees, past the villas of the painters A. Norman and Hans Dahl.
About 1/2 M. beyond the latter, on the bank to the left, is a Lax-
varp for catching salmon. Kefreshments (beer, wine, e'c.) may be
obtained at the adjacent Hygea chalet. The road ends at (3 M. from
the hotels J the farm of Flesje, situated among trees on the Ijord.
Another pleasant walk may be taken to the W. from the pier
along the *Efsefjord to (^'o hr.) the bridge over the stream issuing
from the Essedal; or we may take a row (2-3 hrs.) on the fjord,
which is surrounded by a noble series of mountains : to the N. the
Toten (4610 ft.; ascended in 8 hrs.), then the Furunipa, separated
by the sharp ridge of Kjeipen from the snow-clad Guldaple; farther
on, the Vindregyen (3808 ft.) and the Gjeiteryggen ; and to the S.W.
the Munkeg (4135 ft. ; ascent 12 hrs.).
A wide prospect is alTorded by the top of the hill above the
Bale-Sitter, reached in II/4 hr. by a footpath, whicli is at places
steep and stony. About 75 yds. beyond the Bele mound (see
above) we proceed to the riglit across the meadow, between the
houses. We do not cross the stremi but ascend on its left bank,
traversing bru.shwood above the last houses and ascending to tlie
right beyond the fence. The best point of view is about ^j-yXn. above
the Bale-Sa'ter.
Opposite Balholm, to the N., on the other side of the mouth of
the Essefjord , rises the prettily situated church oi Tjugum. The
good road, which leads to it from the landing-place, ascends past
134 E.21. — Map,p.l30. BALHOLM. Sognefjord.
the parsonage, and, 'beyontl (1/4 br.) a path descending to the right,
continues for some distance at the same level, affording a charming
*View of the Fjaerlandsfjord and across the Vetletjord with the
Jostedalsbrse in the background.
From Balholm to Sande i Holmedal (two days). 1st Day. By rowing-
boat to the gaard of Svceren at the head of the Svcerefjord (see below; toler-
able quarters) ; we then ascend the valley gradually for about 3 Kil. ; mount
a steep and rough path to the pass of Svcerskard (2300 ft.), where we get a
fine view looking back to the Sognefjord; ascend a steep and marshy slope
to the watershed; descend past the Torenws Scc-ter (5 hrs. from Svseren) to
the Holme-Vand in the Viksdal; then through a good deal of wood, past
the Laiiffe-Swter, across the river, and over marshy ground to Mjell (8-10 hrs.
from SvBPren). — 2nd Day. From Mjell bridle-path to the gaard of Jlof; then
down the Eldal to EldaUeren on the Yikivatid (p. 17(5) -, cross by boat to
Eorsevik, and walk thence by the road to Sande (p. 178; in all, 3-4 hrs.
on foot and 1^/4 hr. by boat).
The most beautiful excursion from Balholm is to the *Fjaer-
landsfjord, which runs inland towards the N. (fjord-steamer from
Balholm to Fjserland four times a week in 2-3 hrs.). Tliis fjord is
26 Kil. long, nearly 2 Kil. broad in its S. and 1 Kil. in its N.
half. Its banks are less precipitous than those of the Nseriefjord
(p. 137). The entrance is commanded by the Toten (p. 133) on
the left and the Storhaug (1210 ft.) and Trodalseg (3646 ft.) on
the right.
To the left diverges a broad bay of the fjord , dividing into the
Svierefjord and the beautiful Vetlefjord. The steamer calls once a
•week at Vlvestad, at the head of the Vetlefjord.
From Ulvestad a road ascends the valley to Mell, where we see the
Vetlefjovdshrce descending from the Jostedalsbra?. The MeUnipa (see below)
to the E. and the Gotopfjeld or GotophesteH (5650 ft.) to the N. are said
to command superb views. — From Jlell a toilsome mountain-route leads
to the gaard Grening, near Haukedal (p. 180; 7-8 hrs., with guide).
After the steamer has rounded the promontory of Menas we
observe on the right, above the Rommedal, the Rommehest (4110 ft.;
ascent said to be easy), and on the left the Harevoldsnipa (5360 ft.)
and the Melsnipa (5800 ft.), separated from the Jorddalsnipa by the
Jorddalsdal, behind which appear the snow-fields of the JostedaLs-
braB. We now obtain a *Vie\v of the head of the fjord with its
snowy background, a grand example of characteristically Norwegian
scenery. The glaciers of the Suphellebrae come into sight first, then
those of the Bejumsbrae in the background ; but as we approach the
Mundal, the latter again disappears. On the right lies the gaard of
Berge, at the mouth of the Bergedal. (To Sogndal, see p. 137.)
3 S.M. Fjserland (*Hotel Mundal, R. 1V2-2, B. or S. 1% D.
2 kr. ; Engl. Ch. Serv. in summer), the steamboat-terminus, lies
at the entrance to the broad Mundal, in which the Jostedalsbrae is
seen. A granite stone recalls King Oscar II. 's visit in 1879.
A visit to the glaciers which descend, a little to the N. of Fjaer-
land , into the Beijumsdal and the Suphelledal, two valleys separ-
ated by the Skeidsnipa, is interesting. We may drive the greater
part of the way (stolkjaerre there and back in 3 hrs., one pers. 3,
Sognefjord. B0JUMSBR.^. Map,p. 13II. — 21. R. 135
two pers. 4 kr. ; to both glaciers and back, 6 lirs., 5 or 6 kr.~). The
road skirts the W. bauk of the fjord, at the end of which, on a hill
to the right, is the gaard oi Uorpedalen, with an Impetuous stream.
To the left, farther on, we look into the Bejumsdal, with the Joste-
dalsbrae in the background. About 4 Kil. from Fjaerland the road
into this valley diverges to the left, while that to the Suphelledal
crosses the brook and goes straigbt on.
To the *B«jumsbr8e, the grander of the two glaciers, it is a walk
of 13 4 hr. from the fork of the road. The carriage-road ascends the
right loank of the stream, passing between the houses ol Bejums-
fustene and 0de fjord, and ends at the Bejums-Sceter (restaurant);
thence we ascend on foot and cross the stream in '/2 5^'. to the
glacier, the foot of which lies 450 ft. above the fjord.
The*StoreSuphellebr8e is also ISy^hr. from the fork of the road.
The road crosses the Bejums-Elv and ascends the Suphelledal, past
the Suphelle Gaard, to the (13/4 M.) end of the glacier. The stream
issues from a great vault in the glacier, 152 ft. above the fjord. About
480 ft. above its base a rock divides the glacier into two parts. Of
these the upper only is united with the Jostedalsbra; the lower part
is formed of accumulated masses of ice which have fallen over the
rock. The roar of the ice-avalanches is frequently heard.
The Vettle Suphellebrae, or Little Suphelle Olacier, is said to have the
finest ice. This is reached by taking the path to the riuht 5 min. to the
N. of the Suphelle Oaard, crossing the broad Elv, and then traversing the
fallen rocks, which extend as far as the ('2 hrs.) glacier. — A fatiguing
e.\pedition may be made hence (guide and provisions necessary) to (S'/s-
4 hrs.) the V'eilestranclssiar , then down the Snauedal to the gaard of
fStelen, where the Snauedal joins the valley beginning at the Veitestrands-
vand, and finally down the latter valley to (4V:;-5 hrs.) Nordre Nas, at the
N. end of the Veiteslr<indsvcind (p. 142).
Grand passc! from l-jarland lead across the JostedaUbree to Jolster
fp. 180), in 9-10 hrs. (guide 10 kr.). Skirting the Bejumsbrse, we ascend
the Jakohhakkadn by a recently improved path to the glacier in 2V2 hrs.,
cross the latter (rope necessary) via its highest point, Vae, Kvitevarde, descend
to (IV2-2 hrs.) the Troldvand, and Unally follow a steep and rough foot-
path, over loose stones and boulders, traversing the wild ravine of the Lun-
deskar, to a mountain-valley enclosed by precipitous dills and to (41/2 hrs.)
Lunde (p. 180j. An alternative and better route from the Troldvand leads
through the Seknetandtskar , round the Seknesandmipa (4965 ft.), to Sek-
nesand on the Kj0sn8esfjord (p. 180). — From Fjserland we may also walk
direct up the Mundal , pass between the Jostedalsbrse and the Jostefond.
and finally (;i8 above) de.«cend through the S0knesandsskar, to the W. ot
the S^knesandsnipa, to (10-12 hrs.) Seknesand.
Guides in Fjwrland : Johi Mundal, Ilant Bejiim, Henrik ihtndal, Mikkel
S, Mundal, and Anders T. Mundal.
b. From Balholm to Gudvangen. Aurlandsfjord and Nser^rfjord.
The Fjord Stkamer (p. 131) plies from Balholm to Gudvangen in
S'/zhrs. (fare 4kr.), but touches (with the occasional exception of Lekanger)
at none of the intermediate stations mentioned below. The details as far
as the Aurlandsfjord (pp. 136, 137) have reference to the course of the
large Bergen steamers between Balholm and Lferdal.s0ren (p. 141).
Balholm, see p. 133. — Fine retrospect of the Balestrand, with
the Langedalsbrae in the background. The first station of the Bergen
136 R.21.—Map,p.l30. LEKANGER. Sogn^fjord.
steamers is Vanysnas (p. 133). The steamer skirts tlie S. bank of
tlie fjord, above which rise imposing mountains. To the N. is the
Bluafjelcl, from which a waterfall descends.
On theS. bank is the station of Fedjos or Fejos (with a church),
whence, through the Gulsatdal , we may ascend Rambaren
(5260 ft.), affording a grand view of the Jostedalsbrje and the fjord
(those who do not care to mount so high may go as far as the
Kcngshei or the Kong-svcnd , 2-3 hrs.), and the Fresvlksbra (p. 137).
21/2 S.M. (from Balholm) Lekanger or Leikanger (J. Olsen's
Hotel) lies on the Sje strand , the fertile N. bank of the fjord. To
the W. lies the gaard Husebe, with a lofty 'bautasten'. To the E.
of the steamboat-quay are the residence of the 'Amtmand', the par-
sonage, and the churcli ; farther on is the gaard of Henjtim, with
a 'Stue' (wooden house) of the 17th century.
1/2 S-M- Hermansvserk (Knudsen's Hotel) lies at the mouth of
the Henjunisdal, through which a day's excursion may be taken to
thie N. to the Qunvordshra (5150 ft.).
The fjord- steamer (p. 131) steers direct for the mouth of the
Aurlandstjord (p. 137). — The Bergen steamers first enter the
narrow Norefjord to the E. On the left are the gaards of Lunden
and Slinde (boat-station sometimes touched at). On the right is
Fimreite, on a fertile hill, commanded by the mountain of that name
(2570 ft.). On loth June, 1184, Magnus Erlingssan was defeated
and slain here in a naval battle by King Sverre. To the left is the
church of Olmheim. — Rounding the peninsula of Nordmes, a spur
of the Skriken (see below), we enter the Sogndalspord^ with smil-
ing and well-cultivated banks. On the left lies the gaard of Far-
dal (touched at on the return from Sogndal), at the mouth of the
0verste Dal or 0fste Dal. On the right rises the Storhougfjdd
(4235 ft.). To the left is the gaard Stedje or Steie (inn), with its
thriving orchards.
3 S.M. Sogndal (Dunielsen's Hotel, fair; skyds-station at the
gaard of Fjarn), consisting of the numerous gaards of Sogndalakirke,
Hofslund, and Soyndalsfjccren, is charmingly situated on an old
moraine through which the Soyndals-Elv has forced a passage, and
amidst lofty mountains: the Storhouyfjeld, to the S. (see above;
easily ascended and affording a fine view); Skriken (41 15 ft.), to the
S.W.; and Njuken (3200 ft., to the N. ; easily ascended in 31/2 hrs.).
Pleasant walk on the bank of the river to the Waterfall, with its
mills, and then to the S. to the pretty new church, a 'bautasten'
beside which bears the Runic inscription: '■Olafr konun.gr saa itt
mille staina thessa^ {i.e. 'King Olaf looked from between these
stones'). We may then follow the road to Stedje (see above), with
its two large 'Kjempehouge' ('giant tumuli'), whence we may return
to Sogndalsfjteren by boat (an excursion of 1 hr. in all).
Fkom Sogndal to Solvorn (14 Kil. ; pay for 19) ok to MARiFJiEKEN
(22 Kil.; pay fur 2Sj, by carriage iu 3 and 5" hrs. respedively, while the
steainbiiat does not reach these places for 12 or 14 hrs. (cunip. p. 141).
.'^oynefjord. FRKSVIK. Map, p. 130.— 21. li. 137
Tlie sceucry is most attraclive, but until the completion of the new road
the excursion is i-ecommended to pedestrians only.
FuoM SoGKDAL TO Fj^uLAXi) (12-15 hrs.). A tolerable road ascends from
Sogndal to the Sogndalsvand (1500 It.) and runs along its E. bank to aaard
Selseng (17 Kil.). To the W. opens the Gunvorddal , with a small sana-
torium. From Selseng we may ascend T>iorsladnakken (5250 ft.; imposing
view of the mountains to the E. of the Fjtcrlandsfjord and of the Joste-
dalsbra;; to the E., the Horunger in clear weather). — From Selseng
we may ascend the Langedal. passing several sseters, the highest of which
is called Toftahougstele, to the central of the three depressions in the
mountain, about 4130 ft. above the sea, to the left of which rise the peaks
of the Fintdnlsbfce (5165 ft.). The path then descends the Bergedal to
Gaard Bevge on Ihc Fjserlandsfjord (p. 131), from which we row in 1 hr.
to (6 Kil.) Fjiirland.
The steamer returns to the great highway of the Sognefjord,
passes the promontories of Mcisen and Hensene, and steers either
to the E. direct to Laerdal (p. 141 ), or to the S. to —
3 S.M. Fresvik (indifferent quarters), situated on a bay formed
hy the projecting hill of Auten, and commanded on the S. by the
Nonhauy ('non' is 2 p.m., the time when the sun appears above the
hill). Fine view looking back on Lekanger, with the Gunvordsbrae
rising above it. A visit to the Fresviksbra on the Fresvlksfjeld
(5145 it. I, 8-9 Kil. from Fresvik, is said to be attractive.
From Fresvik through the Tundal and across the hills to the Jovdal
;.nd Sfalheim (p. 128) takes fully 8 hr-!.
The fjord -steamers to Gudvangen and twice a week also the
Bergen steamers, after leaving Fresvik, steer to the S. between the
promontories of SallkjelncFS and Solstices into the *Aurlaiidsfjord, an
enormous ravine about l^/'oKil. broad, with precipitous rocky banks,
3000-4000 ft. high, forming the slopes of higher mountains which
are rarely visible from the lake. At a few spots only dwellings
have been erected on the alluvial deposits ('Ur', 'Aur') of a stream,
or are perched high above the lake on some apparently inaccess-
ible rock. From these abrupt slopes descend lofty waterfalls, either
perpendicularly, or \u streaks of foam gliding over the dark-brown
rock, and reflected in the sombre fjord. Their monotonous murmur
alone breaks the profound silence of the scene.
Beyond the Solstices we observe on the left the buildings of
Buoie, with a 'slide' for shooting down timber. On the right is
Simlencfs ; farther on, the Fyssefos. Then, on the left, Brednas or
Breitices, beyond which we pass the mouth of the valley of the
Kolar-Klv. — To tiie left, by the promontory of Nitretices, we obtain
a superb view of the upper Aiirlandsfjord, with its vista of rocky
headlands (p. 139). The IJergen steamers enter this fjord, see p. 139.
Passing the promontory of Beiteln, the tjord-steamer steers
into the *''Naer«rfjord, the S.W. arm of the Aurlandsfjord, and the
.grandest of all the ramifications of the Sognefjord. It is at first
about 900-1000 yds. in breadth. Soon after entering it wc see on
the right a waterfall of tlie Liryde-Eiv, nearly 1000 ft. high. Op-
posite rises the pointed Kroyeyg; then, the Gjeileyy. I'ctwecn these
138 R.';>L — Maps, pp. 113,130. OUDVANGEN. Sognefjo .
two hills, and afterwards between the Gjeitegg and the Middagsherg,
we obtain fine glimpses of the snow-clad Steganaase (p. 139) high
above. Opposite the Middagsberg, on the right, are the gaards of
Dyrdal, at the mouth of the Dyrdal. The fjord contracts to a deflle
about 200 yds. broad, bounded by perpendicular rocks. On the right,
between the Middagsberg and the Raueg, are the gaards of Styve,
endangered by the river; above them rise the snow-masses of the
(Store Brce. Several veil-like waterfalls. On the right, the Dyrduls-
fjeld. To the left, farther on, the Nissedals-Elv descends from the
Skammedalsheidn (not visible from the steamer). To the right is a
waterfall descending from the Ytre Bakken, forming a double leap
far above. The fjord then turns more to the S. We now observe the
mountains of the Nseriedal, particularly the Sjaerpenut (see below),
and to the right the waterfall of the Bakke-Elv and the small church
of Bakke, to which a good road leads from Gudvangen (a pleasant
walk, giving a singularly vivid impression of the gloomy solitude of
the fjord ; ca. 2 hrs. there and back). Farther on several waterfalls
are seen on both sides ; the last one (left) is the Kilefos (see below).
4 S.M. (from Fresvik; 8 from Balholm) Gudvangen. — Hotels
(a few minutes from the steamboat-pier). Vikingvang Hotel, with caf(5
and restaurant, English spolcen, R. 2, B. or S. IV2, D. 2 kr. ; Hansen's
Hotel, well spoken of (landlord speaks a little English). — English Church
Service in the season.
Conveyances to Stalheim (I'/j hr.) usually await the arrival of the
steamer: skyds for 1 pers. 2 kr. 55, 2 pers. 3 kr. £5 er. ; there and back,
incl. stay at the foot of the Stalheimsklev, 5 or 7 kr. ; caleschvogn for
2-4 pers. 20 kr. The excursion is also recommended to pedestrians,
especially the descent from the 'Kiev' to Gudvangen (2V2-2V4 hrs.). The
view from the top is most favourable by afternoon-light. — Those bound
for Vossevangen may obtain good nightquarters at Framnses, Vinje, and
Tvinde. The distance from Stalheim to Vinje is 14 Kit.
Gudvangen is a group of gaards at the head of the Naereffjord,
at the influx of the Naredals-ELv. The moiintains enclosing the
ravine are so lofty and abrupt that this little hamlet does not see
the sun throughout the whole winter. On the E. rises the Sjarpe-
nut, on the W. the Solbjergenut. From the Kilsbotten, to the N. of
the former, comes the * Kilefos, a waterfall 1840 ft. in height, be-
ginning with a leap of 500 ft. ; to the right of it are the small
HestncBsfos and Nautefos, whose waters unite below.
The picturesque *N8er«rdal, the landward continuation of the
fjord, preserves the same wild character. About 1/2 ^^^- from Gud-
vangen the road crosses a great 'Aur' (p. 137) and the clear river,
on the right bank of which lies the gaard oi Sjarping. To the right
towers the huge Jordalsnut (3610 ft. ; ascent , see p. 129), which
consists of light-gray syenite. On the rocky slopes are seen many
traces of the avalanches ('Skred') which fall into the valley in the
early summer. The road follows the right bank, gradually ascending.
On the left bank are the gaards of Hemre 3.nd. Hy Hand. Farther on
(I3/4-2 hrs. from Gudvangen) the road recrosses to the left bank and
roaches the foot of the * Stalheimsklev ('clifl''), which terminates the
f^ognefjord. AURLAND. Map, p. 113. — 91. R. 139
valley. The vehicles of visitors to the 'Kiev" usually await their
retiin\ at the bridge. The road ascends the 'Kiev' in sixteen some-
what steep zigzags, the ascent of which tal\es nearly an hour. On
the right and left are the Sivlefos and the Stalheimsfos, two pictur-
esque waterfalls. From the top of the pass (1125 ft.; new hotel,
opened in 1903) a superb view is obtained (see p. 129).
The *Upper Aurlandsfjord, which stretches to the S.E. from
the promontory of Beiteln (p. 137), is visited twice weekly by the
steamer from Bergen to Lsrdal. To the left, high up on the steep
E. bank, we observe the gaards of Horken, Nedberge, and (in a
ravine) Kuppadal. To the right, on the hill, are the Stege-Scetre,
with two waterfalls near. The steamer calls at Vnderdal, finely
situated, with a church, whence we may ascend by the Melhus-ScBter
to the Steganaase ('ugly' or 'terrible nose'; 5660 ft.), the highest
peak of the Syrdalsfjekl. — Farther on, to the right, rises the long
Flenje-Egg, with its highest peaks, the Jelben (to the N.) and the
Flenjanaase (4840 ft.). The fjord widens. On the left open several
deep ravines, first the Skjerdal, with the gaard of that name, then
the small Voldedal and the Vashygd, the chief place in which is —
4S.M. (fromFresvik or Gudvangen) Aurland or Aurlandsvangen
{Ellend Vangen's Hotel., R., B., or S. 1, D. 2kr., tolerable), with
its small stone church. — A good road leads up the valley of the
Aurlands-Elv (which abounds in fish) to the (6 Kil.) Vasbygdvand
(p. 139).
From Aurland to T^njum in the L^rdal (2 days). 1st Day: steep
ascent of about 4000 ft. between the Jilaaskavl (Skavl, 'snow-drift'; 2815 ft.;
ascended in 6 hrs. from Aurland; fine view) on the N. and the Ileiskarsnvt
on the S., and afterwards passing the lofty Ilodns/iipe on the right, to
the Hodn-Saeler (8 hrs.). — 2nd Day: to the Skaale-Sieler and up the
Barshegda (4635 ft.), commanding a fine view as far as the Horunger,
and of the .l0ranaase with the Troldelifjeld. A rough SEeter-path then
descends to the (7 hrs.) church of Tenjum in the Lcerdal , from which
Lwrdalseren (p. 141) is 10 Kil. distant by the highroad.
At the head of the fjord, 6 Kil. from Aurland, lies the large
gaard of Fretheim (Frethcims Hotel, R. ll/2> B- or S. P/^^iT., very
fair), the steamer-terminus, at the mouth of the Flaamsdal, with a
line girdle of mountains.
Feom Frbthbim to Vatnahalsen (19 Kil., pay for 27), new
carriage-road ascending the *Flaamsdal. This route is also re-
commended to pedestrians, and the times given are those which a
good walker should accomplish. — The road follows the right bank
of the stream, and is almost level as far as the (3 Kil.) church of
Flaam, whence it ascends in a wide curve to the second zone of the
valley, 300 ft. higlier than the first. High above the W. slope ot
the valley is the beautiful Riondefos. About I'^^r. from Fretheim
the road crosses the Hega-Bro to the left bank, where the necessary
blasting of the rock has exposed some huge giant's cauldrons;
the stream flows far below us. As the valley contracts, its rugged-
140 noute 21. AMBLE. Sognefjord.
ness increases. Below, on the left, is the gaard of Berekuam.
In 11/4 hr. more, just before reaching the gaard Melhus on the
left bank, we once more cross the stream, pass through a tunnel
130 yards long, and follow the right bank till we reach (3/4 hr.) an
iron bridge, below which is the pretty Kanrdalsfos. Here we re-
cross (for the last time) to the left bank and find ourselves at the
gaard of Kaardnl {?>^ j^-^^i'rs. from Fretheim). Looking up to the
left, we see the flag waving on the Vatnahalsen Hotel; a footpath to
Opsjet (p. 129) diverges to the right. Fully 1 Kil. beyond Kaardal
the road bends to the right and ascends the steep side of the valley
in 16 curves. At about ^^hr. from the Kaardalsfos the road forks,
the right branch leading to Myrdalen (20 Kil. from Fretheim, pay
for 28), whence there is a footpath to OpScet (comp. p. 130), while
our route goes straight on to the (10 min.) Vatnahalsen Hotel
(p. 130).
c. From Balholm or from Gudvangen to Lserdalseren.
Steamer from Balholm to Lardalseren via Sogndal or via Gudvaii(/en,
6 time:? a week in 7-12 brs. (fare 4 kr.). — From Gudiangen to Lxrdah-
eren^ also G times a week in 3>/2 lirs. (fare 4 kr ).
From Balholm and from Gudvangen to the mouth of the Aur-
landsfjord, see p. 135. — The steamer rounds the Sagances, the base
of the Holten, and sometimes calls at the substantial gaard of —
Ytre Freningen. On a green plateau, about 400 ft. higher,
stands the school attended by the children of this scattered district.
From Ytre Fr0ningen the "Blejan (5560 ft.) may be ascended in 6-7 hrs.
(ratlier steep): admirable view of the Sognefjord, the Jostedalsbrse, theHor-
unger, the Jotunheim Mts., the Hallingdal, and Voss. The fjord itself is best
seen from the brink of the Lemegg, which descends 5000 ft. almost perpendic-
ularly to the N. — An easier ascent is from iheVindedal (p. 141; poor quar-
ters), reached from LEerdalsijrren by small boat. The best plan is to sleep at
the Vindedals-S<eter, I'/j hr. above the Vindedal and 2-3 hrs. from the top.
To the N. towers the Storhougfjeld (p. 136). We next pass
Indre Freningen and the promontory of Refncestangen, a spur of the
Hausafjeld, behind which rises the Lemeggisee above). We either
steer direct to Lcerdalseren, or tirst to the N. to —
5S.M. (from Sogndal) Amble ( Husum' s Inn, goodj, charmingly
situated on the cTaLter-sha.-pei Ajuhlebiigt. A pleasant road leads hence,
passing the Amblegaard (the owner of which, Hr. Heiberg, has a
collection of relics relating to the large Norwegian family of that
name) and skirting the fjord, to (2 Kil.) Kaiipanger, beautifully
situated. The small 'Stavekirke', with 20 pillars in the nave and
4 in the reftangular choir, seems to liave been built about 1200 ;
it was unsuccessfully restored in 1862. Fine elms and ashes.
From Amble to Sogndal (13 Kil.). Beyond Kaupanger the road be-
gins to ascend; superb view looking bade on the Sognefjord, particularly
of the precipices of the snow-clad Blejan (see above). The road leads through
pine-forest to the top of the hill, and then descends past several large
farms (each with a 'Slabbur' and belfry) to fl Kil.) Midet (a poor station).
A road skirting the Jiidsfjord, with a line view of the avalanche-furrowed
INDRE SOGNE FJORD
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Sognefjord. LiERDAl.S0Rfi:N. 21. Route. 141
slope of the Stnrhougfjeld towards the S., leads hence to (GKU.) Lofles-
nws. a substantial larm-himse opposite Sogndal, to which we cmss by
boat. — To row direct from Eidet to Sogndal (G Kil.) takes 1 hi-, (boat with
two rowers 1 kr. 80.). Herrings are largely caught in the Eidsfjord. The
water in thisbay is almost fresh on the surface ('ferskvand) but Salter below.
To the S. rises the F.lejaii (p. 140); to the W., farther distant,
the FresviksbraB (p. 137). Un thelettopensthc Aardalsfjord(p. 142).
Opposite the headland o( Fodncvs, on the right, between the Lemegg
and the long Glipsfjild , descends the Vindedal, -with the Store
Graanasein the background. The fjord, now called Lcerdalsfjord, is
bounded on the left by the Vetatiaase and, farther to the E., the
Heganaase (4900 ft."). We pass the gaards of Haugene, on the
riglit, at the mouth of the Eierdal, and land at —
7 S.M. (from Balholm ; 3 from Amble) Laerdalsaren. — Pier
1 Kil. from the hotels (carr. 50 0. each pers. ; with luggage 60 0.). Thoae
who make an early start liom La'rda1s0rcn may go on board the steamer
the night before, but sleep is almost out of the question owing to the
noise of loading and unloading.
Hotels. *Lindsti!0m's Hotel, three houses with garden, R. 2, B. or
S. IV2, !*• 2Vi kr. ; Kv.\mme",s Hotel, less pretending; English spoken at
both. Physician, Dr. Moinidien.
Teleguapu Office, in the chemist's shop to the right, beynud Lind-
str0ra"s Hotel. — Post Office, still farther from the fjord, in the red
house to the left, near the church. — English Church Sekvice in summer.
Caleschvogn to Odnrcs (p. 53), for 2, 3, or 4 pers , 85, 100, 115 kr.
Lardalseren, generally shortened to Lardul, the terminus of
the Valders route (R. 8), lies on a broad and marshy plaiu at the
mouth of the Lara, enclosed by bare rocky mountains. View limited.
Towards the E. we observe at the end of the Oftedal, on the left,
the Haugnaase (5250 ft.), and on the right the Freibotlcnfjeld. The
village, with its 800 inhab., has a doctor, a chemist, and a few
tolerable shops. The church, a timber edifice of 1873 with two
towers, lies in a sefond group of houses about 1/4 M. farther inland.
A 'bautasten' 20 ft. high, erected in 1902, commemorates the brave
deeds of the Lserdal soldiers in the wars of 1808-9 and 1813-14.
Walks. By a good n ad pa.st the pier and along the bank to the
winter-pier (u?ed when the fjnrd is frozen), and thence to the mouth of
the Kierdal (see above: there and hack IV2 hr.}. — Up the Lrordal road,
past ttie church, for about P/i M. : then to the left over the bridge and
(farther on) to the right to the hamlet of nmige; finally to the Jeft to
C/z M.) two yellow houses on the lower slope of the hil), containing a fish-
breeding cs'aMi.'ihment (FiSke-UdHcchnngs-Apjmvat), founded in 1899 (fee
15-20 0.). Hard by is the low 'Klokstoper of the old church of La:rda).
d. The Aardalsfjord and Lysterfjord.
Steamek from Lardals0ren to Aavdal twice weekly, in 11/2-2 hir. (faro
1 kr. GO0.); to SIcJolden at the head of the Ly.'iterfjord thrice wceklv, in
5-7'/2hrs. (fare 3 kr. 200.); to Marifjwren only, in '3-41/2 hrs. (fare 2'kr.}.
From Lscrdalseren to Fodnas, see above. After rounding the
promontory wc obtain, to the left, a view of the Lysterfjord
(p. 142), with the Haugma;len ; in the background is the Jostedals-
brffi (p. 130). To the S.W. towers the Blejan (p. 140).
142 R.2L — M<tp,p.l4l). AARDAL. Soynefjord.
The entiaiice of the Aardalsfjord is somewhat monotonous.
On the N. hank rke the Bodlenakken and then the Brandhovd,
hetween which lie the Ytre and Indre Oferdal (see helow). On
the -wooded S. hank is the station of Nadviken or Vikedal. We
next obtain a view of the Sceheimsdal to the N., and a little later
we see the superb girdle of mountains around —
Aardal or Aardalstangen ( Kl'mgenherg s Hold). The little vil-
lage, with its pretty church, lies partly on an old coast-line(p.xxxiv)
and partly on deposits from the mountains on the right, at the
mouth of the Aardals-Elv, which issues from the neighbouring
Aardalsvand. Opposite, to the S., rises the snow-clad Slettefjeld
or Middagshaugen (4435 ft.). Aardal is the starting-point for a
visit to the Vettisfos (1 day; p. 150).
Returning from Aardal , the steamer calls when required at
Oferdal , the station for the valleys of Indre (E.) and Ytre (W.)
Oferdal, which lie between the Brandhovd and the Bodlenakken.
We then round the wild precipice of the Bodlenakken and enter
the *Lysterfjord , the N.E. arm of the Sognefjord , 40 Kil. in
length , where the wildest scenery is combined with the most
smiling. Owing to the numerous glacier-streams falling into it, the
water of the fjord near the surface is fresh and of a milky colour.
On the W. side rises the precipitous Haugmcelen (4135 ft.), which
may be ascended nearly the whole way on horseback. In 21/4 hrs.
from Aardal the steamer reaches —
4 S.M. Solvorn (Hotel Soluorn, very fair), a skyds-station, finely
situated on a bay in the W. bank of the fjord, backed by the snow-
mountains around the Veitestrandsvand (see below).
A hilly road ascends from Solvorn to the (2 Kil.) Hafilovand (455 ft.),
the bank "of which is skirted by the road from Jlarifjteren to Sogndal
mentioned at pp. 143, 136. About 2 Kil. to the N. of the junction of the
two roads lies Hillestad {HiUestad^s Hotel, well spoken of, R. 80 0., B. 1,
S. 1 kr. ; 4 Kil. from Solvorn, pay for 6), where guides and horses are
obtained for the ascent of the Molden (p. 143; on foot 3-4 hrs.).
From Hillestad the road leads by Hafslo, with a church and parson-
age, to (8 Kil.) Soget., at the S. end of the Veitestrandsvand (640 ft.), a lake
14 Kil. long. We may then row (pay for 16 Kil.) to the N. end of the
lake, where rustic quarters (and sometimes a guide) may be had at the
gaard of Naes or Nordre Noss, and walk thence in iO hrs. by the Veite-
strandsskar to the Suphelledal and to Fjferland (see p. 134). — Nses is
also the starting-point for a visit to the Austerdalsbrae, lying to the N.,
farther up the valley, a glacier described by Messrs. K. Bing (p. 117) and
W. C. Slingsby as unusually attractive. A footpath leads to the foot of the
glacier in 3V2 hrs. ; then from the lower to the upper glacier, 1 hr. more.
Several of Herr Bing's original routes across the entire Jostedalsbree are
marked on the Map at p. 130 (to Aamot, see p. 181).
On the promontory opposite Solvorn, in a charming situation,
lies llrnces (where the steamer calls when required), with its large
tumuli ('Kaempehouge') and the oldest 'Stavekirke' in Norway,
dating possibly from the Uth cent, (see p. 29). The construction
and ornamentation of the church are specially interesting. The
'Lop' or arcade was removed in 1722. To the left towers the huge
Sognefjord. MARIFJ^REN. Map, p. 140. — 21. R. 143
Molclen (3645 ft.). On the E. bank , about 1/2 lir. after leaving
Solvorn, we pass the gaard of Ytre Kroken, famed for its orchards
(small-boat station; touched at when required). To the N.W. ap-
pears the Hestebrw , part of the Jostedalsbrae ; to the right of it is
the Leirmohovd ; more to the N. are the hills of the Krondal (p. 145).
In 1,2 lir. more vre reach —
2 S.M. Marifjaeren {^Tervi's Hotel iS' Skyds Station, fair, at the
pier), prettily situated on the Gaupnefjord, the best starting-point
for a visit to the Jostedal (p. 144). Beautiful walk to the N.W.
up to the old church of Joranger, which commands a magnificent
view of the tjord and the Feigumsfos (see below). Instead of follow-
ing the steep footpath (which is especially unpleasant to descend)
leading straight up from the Bygde-Elv bridge, it is better to take
the Hillestad road (see below) as far as the (20 min.) bridge,
and then to ascend to the right (20 min.). — To the S. of Mari-
fjaeren (10 min.) is the gaaid oi Hundskammer, whence part of the
Jostedalsbrae is visible.
From Makifj.kren to Sogndal (22 Kil., pay for 33; a drive of 4-5 hrs. ;
fast stations all the way). The route is full of beauty but, until the
completion of the new road (in 1905 ?). should be traversed only in a light
cariole or on foot. The first stage follows the course of the Bygde-Elv.
On the right, above us, lies Joranger. We next skirt the steep face of
the Molden (see above), and pass many farms with well-cultivated fields,
chiefly on the sunny side {'Solside') of the valley. A little to the right
lies Fet, with its old church. At the highest point of the road (about
9(X) ft.) we obtain a view of the distant snow-mountains to the S. of the
Sognefjord (Fresviksbrffi, Rambffiren, etc.). The descent is rather steep.
Grand view of the Hafslobygd, the Hafslovand, and the mountains of the
Sognefjord.
8 Kil. (pay fur 14) Hillestad, see above.
The road skirts the E. bank of the Hafslovand , where the road to
Solvorn diverges to the left (see above), and traverses a pine-wood, afford-
ing glimpses of the lake and the Jostcdalsbrte to the K. Beyond the
gaard Oklevig the road attains its highest point, and then descends the
winding "Gildreskreden (Skreien), where caution is necessary in driving.
Superb view of the fjord. On our right rushes the Ovre-Elv, descending
fnini the Veitestrand and Hafslo lakes, and forming the Ihlvetesfos and
Futetprang. Below, at the N. extremity of the Sogndalsfjord, lies Nage-
leren. The road now skirts the Bavsnaesfjord. Oaks, elms, and ashes
begin to api)ear. The fjord contracts to a narrow channel. On the op-
posite bank lies Loftesna's (p. 141).
14 Kil. (pay for 19) Sogndal, see p. 13G.
The upper part of the Lysterfjord is grand and picturesque.
The steamer passes A'tts, on the left, and on the right tlie imposing
Feitjumsfos , which descends from a valley to the N. of the Rlvc-
naase (3450 ft.), in two fails, about 050 ft. in height. To the N.
of the fall rises the Serhehnsfjeld ; then, the Skurvenaase (4520 ft.).
On the W. bank is the small station of Hoihehn or Hojums-
vik. Then —
2 S.M. D«rsen, or Lyster, as it is called by the boatmen {Inn,
well spoken of), charmingly situated. Adjacent is the old stone
church of Bale, with a tine portal.
From l>0sen wc may ascond the Dalcdal by a bridle-track, passing the
gaards of Bringe and Skaav and the steters of Vallagjerdet and Kvale, to
144 R.21.— Mnp.p.l4lK SKJOLDEN. Sogncfjorcl.
the gaard Kilert., the highest in the valley. Thence a steep climb ovei
the Stor/iotigs Vidde (2600 ft.) to the VigdaU-Sieter ; then to the W. through
the Vigdal, passing the Buskrednaase on the right, to the fjeld-gaards of
0vi'e and Nedve Vigdal. From the latter the path crosses a bill, descends
abruptly to the Ormbergs-Slel, and leads to the N. to Guard Ormberg in
the Jostedal (p. Ii4), about 27 Kil. from D^sen (a fatiguing walk of
9-10 hrs. ; guide necessary). — From D0sen a new road runs by the side
of the fjord to Skjolden (12 Kil.).
1 S.M. Skjolden (Thorgeir Sulheim's Inn, aLove tlie pier, very
fair; carriages meet tlie steamer), tlie terminus of the steamboat-
service, is finely situated at the moutlis of the Fortundal (p. 154)
and Merkereidsdal. It is the starting-point for an excursion to the
Horunger (pp. 166 et seq.). Fishing in the Fortun-Elv permitted
to the guests of the hotel.
The sombre M^rkereidsdal extends about 20 Kil. to the N., with a road
leading pa^t the farms of S/cole, Bolslad, Flo/iaug, and Moen. to Merkereid or
Merkei (6 Kil. from Skjdldcn). Here the valley forks. A steep path ascends
the left branch to the Aasatrand and skirts the W. slope of the Skur-
venaase (4505 it.) to Ihe Aa-Saier (reached also by rowing across the lake),
whence we proceed into the Rausdal (see below). The route to the right
at M^rkereid ascends the Markereidsdal, passing the Knivebakke-ScBter (left),
the Bul-Swier, and the Dalen-Sccter, to the Fosse-Sa-ter, at the junction of
the glacier-routes fri.m the Kfirstedals-Sreter (p. I5i) and the Sota-Sa'ter
(p. 67). We cross the river here, ascend to join the route from the
Aa-Sfeter, and proceed to the —
Fjeldsli-Saeter, a mounlain-inn kept by Ole Bolstad, with the support
of the Norwegian Turist- Forening. This is a good starting-point for
several mountain -passes and for snowshoeing e.xpeditions on the neigh-
bouring glaciers. — Passes (guides necessary). 1. Past the Rausdals-Swters
and up the E. bank of the streamlet in the Rausdal to the permanently
frozen Rausdalsvand, then to the E. of the Rivenaaskulen (6190 ft.) and over
the KoUbrce down to the Tvccraadal and on to the (10-11 hrs.) fiota-Sajter
(p. 67). Or we may quit the Eausdal by crossing tie iirf(r6n)'«6)"a', between
the ToceraadaU-Kivke (6830 ft.) and the Tundredals Kirke (G500 ft.), and de-
scend past the Sotkjarn to the (12 hrs.) Sola-Smter. — 2. Past the Kausdals-
Ssetre and to the W. over the fjeld and through the Marledal and Fager-
dal to the gaavd Faaberg (p. 146) in the Jostedal (a long day's walk).
Feom Maeifj^een to the Jostedal.
The Jostedal, like almost all the Norwegian valleys, is a rocky rift
or ravine in the midst of a vast plateau of snow and ice, the W. part ( f
which consists of the Jostedalsbrm (p. 130). with its ramifications, while
the E. half is formed by the Spe/rtcgbrw and numerous snow-clad peaks or
'noses'. The sides of the valley, rising to 3000 ft., are generally wooded,
and are often broken up by transverse rifts, from which torrents and water-
falls descend ; and at intervals they recede, forming basins which are usually
bounded by rocky barriers, marking the difl'erent zones of the valley. —
This excursion takes 1V2-2 days there and back, and, in spite of the interest
and beauty of the JVigardslrce (p. 146), is scarcely worth the trouble.
The passage of the Jostedalsbrse should be attempted only by experienced
mountaineers with good guides. — Fast Ski/ds Stations ; it is usual to engage
a cariole for the whole journey.
Marifjaren, see p. 143. The road leads past the precipitous
slopes on the W. bank of the Gaupnefjord to (3 Kil.) Reneid , at
the mouth of the Jostedals-Elv , opposite the church of Gaupne.
Above Gaupne rises the Raubergsholten (2676 ft.).
The road as 'ends on the right bank o the turbulent and muddy
Sognefjord. Sl'ERLK. M,ip, p. Ida. — :>/. R. 145
river. The lower part, of the valley is well rultivated. The road
passes an old moraine and crosses the Kvarne-Elv. The high and
shapeless rocks wliich flank the road all the way to Leirmo begin
here. In front of us rises the Leirmohovd. After crossing the Fon-
delii the road turns to the right to the gorge of Hausadn. To the
W. we see the twin peaks of the Asbjernnaase (5270 ft.). From the
rocks on the right falls the Rijefos. We soon reach the first of the
basins peculiar to the Jostedal, named after the farms of Leirmo,
on the hill to the left. (From Leirmo we may visit the Tunsberg-
dalsbrcE, 8I/2 M- in length, the longest glacier in Norway.) We cross
the foaming Tunshergdals-Elv. To the right towers the Kolnaase.
The river expands until it covers the whole floor of the valley.
14 Kil. Alsmo lies on an old moraine ('Mo'). The road soon
enters a gorge called the Haugaasgjel, in which are the falls of
the Vigdela, and continues through the deep and imposing basin
of Myklemyr, once occupied by a lake. To the left rises the Hompe-
ddlskulen (4820 ft.), and in front of us is the Vangsen (see below).
Passing the gaards of Myten, Teigcn, 0en, and Myklemyr, the road
leads through a narrower part of the valley, with the large gaard
of Ormberg on the right, and enters the basin of Fossen and Dalen.
I'eyond another defile, with a bridge leading to Desen (p. 143), we
reach the basin of —
16 Kil. Sperle (properly Sperleeer ; simple but good quarters).
— We now cross a rocky eminence, where, to the N., we have a pretty
view of the Liaxlen and the Jostedalsbrae. Beyond the school is the
gaard of Sperle, with the waterfall of that name, descending from
the Listelshrce on the left. Beyond Sperle a steep ascent leads to
the Nedre Lid, which is woodeA at the top, and past the 'GjeV, or
ravine, of that name which opens on the right. We then descend
into a beautiful basin containing the church of Jostedal (660 ft.),
which serves all the 900 inhabitants of the valley.
On the left we observe the Bakkefos, which descends from the
Stronddfjeld, and near it the 0vre Oaard. We then reach another
broad basin. On the riglit the Ojeitsdela forms three fine water-
falls. To the S.E. rises the imposing Vangsen (5710 ft.), with a
glacier on its N.E. slope, which may be visited from Jostedal
(4 hrs.). Between the valleys of Vanddal and Gjeitsdal, which
here open to the right, is seen the pyramidal Myrhorn, rising from
the great Spertegbnt behind. Beyond the gaard of Gjerdet we cross
the stream issuing from the Krondal, which is flanked on the right
by the Haugenanse (4260 ft.) and on the left by Vetlenibben and
the Grenneskredbra. Corn thrives thus far.
Fkosi the Kuokdal ovkr the Jo8tedalsur« to Loen , or to Olden
on the Nordtjord (p. 185), 12-15 hrs., a grand but trying route. (Guide,
Johannet Snetun, in the Krcndal, 14-20 kr. ; porter 10 kr.). We sleep at
the gaard Kronen (2 or 3 beds), and start early next niorning. From Bergset,
the last !;aard. we ascend tlie E. side of the Tvarbrm or lijarnesteghrce,^
which descends from the N., to the (3 hrs.) JUmgeneset, between the Tvror-
bnc and the Nigardsbrte (see p. 146), marked by the last 'varde' in the
Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 10
146 R. Jl. — Map, p. UO. FAAUERG.
.Tostcdal (good water). The passage of the glacier now begins. In 1 hr.
the Kjendalskrona, the Lodalskaupa, and other mountains of the Nordfjord
come in sight. In 2-3 hrs. more we reach the first -varde' on the op-
posite side. We descend across the Kvandalthrae (20 min.) and by a very
fatiguing route skirting its margin to the (I1/2 hr.) Kvandal (p. 188). dr
we may follnw the Jostedalsbrse farther to the W. and descend by the
Szmchbra: to the Oldenvand, which we reach at Sunde (p. 186).
Farther on we cross a hill and obtain a fine view looking back.
Before us soon comes in view the *Nigardsbr8e, between the Hauge-
nause and Liaxlen. The road leads past the Berge-Sceter and crosses
the Jostedals-Elv. A path diverging to the left before the Berge-
Sseter by-and-by crosses the stream issuing from the Nigardsbrje
and skirts the N. slope of the glacier-valley. The best view of this
famous glacier, so often described by Norwegian and other writers,
is obtained from the point, about 1/9 ^^- from the Berge-Saster,
where the crest of the lateral moraine projects a little into the valley.
The descent to the foot of the glacier is not worth the trouble.
After crossing the Jostedals-Elv the road passes the gaard
Kroken, and ends at —
19 Kil. Faaberg (1310 ft.). Tolerable quarters but poor fare may
be obtained at the house of Rasmus Larsen Faaberg, a good guide,
who, however, does not accept the conditions of the Norwegian
Tourist Society. That society recommends Lars Larsen Lien, living
at the Lien-Sceter, on tl)e opposite bank, which may be reached by the
foot-bridge across the river between Kroken and Faaberg, without
proceeding to Faaberg.
From Faaberg through the Fagerdal to the Merkereidsdal, see p. 144.
From Faaberg over the Jostedalsbr.^ to Hjelle on the Stbtns-
VAND, 13-14 hrs. (guide 12-14 kr.). It is usual to ascend in the evening, by a
poor path, to (2 hrs.) the sseter of Faabergstal (1875 ft.), where quarters are
obtained. To the W., just above the seeter, extends the Faahei-gsteiUhrw.
Next morning we ascend the desolate Stordal, where the path to Mork
over the Handspikje, mentioned at p. 67, diverges to the right. Farther
on we keep to the left and in 2'/2 hrs. reach the LodaUbrx (about 29T0 ft.),
which we ascend to the right, skirting the Rauskarfjeld, to the Jostedals-
brce. The highest point of the latter is reached to the right of the Lodals-
kaupa (6790 ft.) and to the left of the Stornaase. The descent to Gredung
takes 5-6 hrs. We first cross the Gredunysbrce or Erdalsbrce, which comes
down from the Stornaase and the Kluhben (5150 ft.) on the W., and then
descend by a difficult and unpleasant rocky path along the Skaarene to the
lower end of the glacier (2300 ft.). The valley now becomes less steep,
and we reach the Gredungs-Swter, the gaard of Gredung^ and finally the
gaard of Erdal on the Strynsvand, whence we ferry to Hjelle (p. 190).
A pass, said to be easy, leads from Faaberg via the stone but on the
Liaxlen, rising to the N.E. of the Nigardsbrse, or via the Nigardsbrae, then
across the Jostedalsbrse, and down to the Bedal on the Loenvand (p. 187).
22. Jotunheim.
Section 30 D (Galdh0piggen) and Section 30 B (Bygdin) of the Topo-
graphical 3Iap mentioned in the Introduction (p. xxix; scale 1 : 100,000)
have been published, but for the entire W. part of the district the trav-
eller has to depend on antiquated and almost useless maps. — For the
-Horvnger our map (p. 155) on the scale of 1:200,000, though also based on
insufficient material, but corrected and completed, is at present probably the
J u I u II n c
Aj_ JterstelU^U'';^
I Lifibi-ofciilfn
iTtoivlirqp^
\]^U^i{|(dib
- V :.°ir'0' \ ' ' ' ^i » '^jMarislao'.
JOTU W H E I M
."^
^ .
i .'
'■"'' na^r^'
JOTUNUEIM. 'J-J. Route. 1-^7
best; (he heights arc (aken from the 'Korske Turistf^renings Arbot; fur 1894'.
The map published by C; mmermeyer of Christiania under the title 'Lomme-
Eeisekart over Nt rge No. V., Lom, VeslreSlidre, Eorgund, Lyster' may
also be reccmmended (1:175,000; price 1 kr.)-
Although the greater part of Norway consists of a vast table-
land, rising occasionally into rounded summits, and descending
abruptly at the margins, it possesses three districts with the Alpine
characteristic of well-defined mountain-ranges. One of these dis-
tricts is on the Lyngen fjord in Troms0 Amt (p. 255), the second
is Sendmere (p. 197), and the third is the region bounded by the
Sognefjord on the W. and the plateaux of Valders and the Gud-
brandsdal on the S. and the N.E. This last was explored for the
first time by Keilhau in 18'20 and named by him Jotunfjeldene, or
the 'Giant Mountains', but is now generally known as Jotunheim,
a name given to it by later 'Jotunologists', chiefly Norwegian stud-
ents, as a reminiscence of the 'frost giants' in the Edda.
The peaks of Jotunheim (called Tinder, Pigge, Home, and
Ncebher , while the rounded summits are Heer') generally range
from 5900 ft. to G600 ft. in height, while the Galdhepig (p. 158)
and the Glittertind (p. 173) exceed 8200 ft. The Swiss Alps are
much higher (Mont Blanc, 15,784 ft.), but are surpassed by the
Jotunheim mountains in abruptness. The plateaux between the
peaks are almost entirely covered with snow, the snow-line here
being about 5580 ft. (in Switzerland 8850 ft.). Huge glaciers
(Braer, the smaller being called HuUer, 'holes') descend from these
masses of snow. The amphitheatre-like mountain-basins which
occur here frequently, enclosed by precipitous sides rising to 1600 ft.
or more, are known as Botner. The valleys lie, with a few excep-
tions, above the forest-zone, and are therefore much less picturesque
than those of the Alps. One of their peculiarities is that they rarely
terminate in a pass, but culminate in a nearly level ^Band\ with a
series of lakes; the passage from one side to the other is some-
times so slightly marked, that the waters of the uppermost lake
flows ofl' in both directions. Three large lakes, the Bygdin, the
Tyin, and the Gjende, all at a height of about 3300 ft. and sur-
rounded by barren, sparsely grown rocky hills, complete the chief
features of this bleak northern landscape.
A marked difference in travelling in the Jotunheim ns cumpared
with the Alps is the absence of proper paths in the former. Even
frequented routes often lead through the debris and detritus of the
'Ure' (p.xxxi), across marshes, or over strong glacier-torrents, either
bridgele?s or inadequately bridged. On the other hand the approach
to the mountain-tops is generally easier than in the Alps. Another
drawback for the less robust visitor is the scanty supply of inns
and rrftige-huts, so that it is seldom possible to abbreviate a day's
excursion in the event of fatigue or rain. It is in any event un-
desirable to visit the Jotunheim unless there is a fair prospect of
settled weather. The aciomniodation at the ii-ns is similar to that
10*
1-iS Ii.22. — Map.p.NfJ. J0TUNHP:1M. Inns.
in tlie remoter parts of the Eastern Alps. The sleeping-quarters of
the so-called 'hotels' (mountain-inns of the simplest character)
and refuge-huts (p. xxvi) arc generally clean and the beds toler-
able; but the better rooms at the more frequented points are often
occupied by guests staying for several days, so that passing trav-
ellers liave to sliare their room with 6 or 8 other persons or even to
be content with benches in the dining-room. It is, therefore, ad-
visable not to arrive at the sleeping-place too late in the evening.
Members of the Turist-Forening, recognisable by their club-button,
have a preferential right to beds at the tourist-hnts (except those
built with subvention of government) until 10 p.m. The com-
missariat department is considerably inferior to that of the Alpine
club-huts. The prices are low. The usual charge for a bed is
11/4 kr. (members of the Turist-Forening 50 0.), and the day's
expenditure (not including guides) need not exceed 3l/2-'4V2 It.
Most of the travellers are Norwegians, and parties often consist of
two or three ladies travelling alone.
Unpretending sleeping accommodation may also be had at most of
the ScElers (also called Stel or Sel), which contain at least one living-
room and line sleeping-room, while at the more frequented points extra
rooms for visitors are sometimes provi^led in the nut-buildings. The cows
(Keer) are usually sent up to the mountains (HI f>wters) on St. John's
Day (June 24th) and remain there till Sept. lOtb. Women and girls are
often their so}e attendants.
The Guides are active and obliging, but generally speak Norwegian
only and are scarcely on a par with those of Switzerland or the Eastern
Alps. Their number, moreover, is so small, that a traveller must often
wait until a group of tourists is collected. The usual fee is 4 kr. per
day, but the charges for the difTerent expeditions are given in each case.
The guide is not bound to carry more than 2 'bismer'-pounds (24 lbs.) of
luggage, and even this he carries unwillingly. For the longer tours, there-
fore, the traveller must engage a porter, who receives about two-thirds of
a guide's fee. No charge is made for the return-.journey. — Alpenstocks,
though very useful for steeper ascents, are not in favour in Norway, and
good ones cannot be procured there (comp. p. xxiv). On the other hand,
Ice-axes CJsexer") and stout Ropes ( ReV) are now supposed to be provided
at the chief stations fif the Turist-Furening, though as a matter of fact this
is not always the case. Indeed, the whole 'technique' of mnuntaineering
is much more perfectly understood and practised in the Alps than in Nor-
way, where, however, it is less required. — Those who travel without a
guide should, as a rule, on leaving one of the sfeters, whence numer(>us
paths always diverge, ask to be shown the way for the first half-hour.
With the exception of the greater ascents, most of the excursions may
1)0 made on horseback. In the hire paid for a horse the services of an
attendant are never included, but must be paid for separately; if he is a
full-grown man ('voxen Mand') he receives the same fee as a guide.
The installation of Steam. Latmches on the lakes would considerably
facilitate travelling in the Jotunheim, but there seems at present little
prospect of this owing to the tear th:it such conveniences would impair
the characteristic and solitary charms of the district.
The following tour (9-10 days) includes the Finest Points in
Jotunheim. — From Aardal on the Sogncfjord to Vetti (p. 160), half-
a-day; via Skogadalsbeen and over the Reiser to Turtegre (p. 155),
one day; excursions from Turtegre, one day; via the Bcevertun-
ScBter to Reijshjem (p. 157), two days; over the Galdhepic/ (p. 158)
Aardalsmmd. JOTUNHEIM. Map, p. 146. —^2. B. 149
to Spiterstulen (p. 172; reached a day earlier by the omission of
Riejshjem) and to Lake GJende (p. 166), two days; excursions from
Lake Gjende and thence via Gjendeboden to Eidsbugaren or Tyins-
holmen (pp. 161-163), two days; via the Sklnegg and Tvindehougen
to Skogstad or Nystuen (p. i)?), one day. — Turtegre may he reached
fvom. Skjolden on the Sognefjord(p. 144)in3hrs., via Fortuni'p. 150).
Distances in the fullovviiii; descriptions are calculated for goodwalkera.
It should he borne in mind that walking in .lotunheini is, owing to the
want (if paths', much more fatiguing than amoni; the Swiss Alps. Ample
time should therefore always be allowed. — A standard rule of Norwegian
travel is that horses, guides, boats, food, etc., should always be ordered
in good time, on the day before if possible. An early start is almost im-
possible if, owing to the want of guides (see p. 148), one has to wait for
Norwegian fellow-travellers.
a. From Aardal on the Sognefjord to Vetti. Vettisfos.
To Vein about 5 hrs., viz. i^/i-V/2 hr. by rowing-boat; V/t hr. by
cariole, on horseback, or on foot; the rest on foot, the path being almost
too bad for riding. As the Sognefjord steamers to Aardal are not timed
very conveniently, and the quarters at Aardal are unpretending, this route
is a little uncomfortable. It is recommended only to those who are going
on to Jotunheim or who intend making the circuit of the Horunger, but
hardly repays visitors to the Vettisfos only.
Aardal, see p. 142. We walk up the Aardals-Elv, on the right
hank of which we observe the gaard Hereld, to the (1/4 hr.) Aar-
dalsvand, a lake 14 Kil. long, surrounded by abrupt clifi's and deep
ravines. A boat and rowers are always ready in the travelling season
to carry passengers to the upper end of the lake (IV2 ^r- ! 1 pers.
80 0., 2 pers. 1 kr. 32, 3 pers. 1 kr. 62 0). To the right we see
the Stegafjeld , with the precipice of Opstegene on its E. side ;
beyond lies the Fosdal with the Etdegaard, to which a zigzag path
ascends past a waterfall. Farther on, high up to the right, is the
Lest-Sceter; then the Midnaslunncr, with the Eldeholt. To the left
rises the Bottnjuvkamp, with its huge precipice ; to the right are
the 'Plads' or clearing of Gjeithus and the liaudncES, Then, to the
left, the Nondal, with several farms and the Nondalsfos. On round-
ing the Raudna's we see —
Farnces, at the N.E. end of the lake, where we land. Bargaining
advisable in hiring horse or vehicle. Guide to Vetti unnecessary.
Fkom Fakn/Es to Foutun (3-10 hrs.; with guide, 4 kr.). A bridle-
path ascends to the N.W. tln-nug'h ihc Fardal or Langedal, passing the. Aare
and Slokke sipters, to the Afiiiyi'ht-Sceter, whence a path leads through the
LovardaUskard (4700 ft.), a narrow gap or pass at the base of tlie Austa-
bottinder and the Soleitindcr (p. 15()), into the Berdal, where a refuge-hut
has been built. Thence to the gaard of Fuglesteg (2495 ft.) and by an
excessively steep descent (whence probably the name of 'Fuglesteg', or
'bird-path') to Fortun (p. l.')4).
The road from Farnss to Gjelle (7 Kil.) ascends the right (W.)
bank of the Utla. In 1/4 hr. we see on the right the mouth of the
Aardela ; then the gaard of Moen (poor quarters). About 5 Kil.
from Faruics the road crosses the Utla, and it ends beyond the bridge
of Gjelle, 2 Kil. farther on. To the right is the fine Gjellefos.
150 R.09,^Mnp,p.l46. VETTISFOS. Jotunheim.
From Gjelle a bad bridle-path (best On foot for the suitably
shod) ascends the Vettisgjel , a ravine 4-5 Kil. long. The path
first descends to the left, crosses the river, and reaches the gaard
Skaaren, just beyond which it crosses another bridge ('Johannebro,
1880'). Farther on we thread our way through a chaos of stones
above the wild Utla. After 30-40 min. we reach the *Afdalsfos,
530 ft. high. Scenery very imposing. The ravine ends, ^/i-i hr.
farther on, at the Heljabakfos, a fall of the Utla. Steep ascent to
the Heljahakken, from which we have a view of the 'Plads' below,
Gaard Vetti above, and of three small waterfalls to the left. Then
a steep climb of V2"^/4 1^. more to —
Gaard Vetti (1090 ft.; quarters at Anfind Vetti' s; horses to be
had for returning to Farnses ; Anflnd's son, Thomas A. Vetti, is a
good guide).
A disagreeable path (guide unnecessary) leads hence, at first
up and then down hill, to (1/2 hr.) the *Vettisfos, or Vettismor-
kafos, 850 ft. in height, a fall of the Morkedela, which joins the
Utla a little lower down. A height near the fall commands an ad-
mirable view of it, but a closer approach may be made by crossing a
small bridge to the other bank (waterproof desirable). — Those
who have 3-4 hrs. more to spare may ascend for I1/4 hr. the path
leading to the Vettismorka-Saeter, in order to enjoy the fine view
from the platform above the fall.
''Circuit of the Horcnger (with gnide; a horse must be obtained at
Favna'S or Gjelle, and provisions brought from Aardal). ist Day; From
Gaard Vetti, by the Vettismorka-Swier and the FleskedaU-Swtre (p. 151),
to Skogadalsbeen (p. 152) in 7-8 hrs., or in Y^ l^r. more to the highest
Guvidals-Sceter (p. 151). 2nd Day : Across the Keiseren Pass (p. 175) to the
Tuvtegre - Soetre (p. 155), and ascent of the DyrhaugsHnd (p. 156). 3rd
D;iy: Via Fortun to Skjolden (p. 144), 4V2-5 hrs.
b. From Vetti to Tyinsholmen.
8-10 hrs. A grand expedition (guide 5V2 kr.).
Gaard Vetti and the Vettisfos, see above. From Vetti we zigzag
up the Vettisgakler towards the N.E., and in 1/2 ^^- reach a plateau
commanding a view of the Utladal to the N., with the Maradalsfos
on the left. In another 1/2 hr. we reach the top of the hill, where
there are a few sickly pines and others overthrown by the wind. To
the right rises the Stelsnaastind. A path descends to the left
through scrub and across the Morkedeki to the above-mentioned
platform overlooking the Vettisfos. We then return to the left bank
of the Morkedela, ascend its course, and (20 min.) cross it to the —
Vettismorka-Sater (2190 ft.), II/2 tr. from Vetti. To the W.,
at the head of the Stels-Maradal, rises the Riingstind with the
Riingsbra; ; below is the Maradalsfos ; to the right, the Maradals-
naasi. The view of the Horiinger increases in grandeur.
From the upper valley of the Morked0la, on the S. side, rises the
Gjeldedalstind (7100 ft. ; first ascended by Hr. Carl Hall in 18S4), and on
the N. side the St0lsnaastind (6790 ft. ; first ascended by Mr. Slingsby in
Jotunheim. UTLADAL. Map, p. 146.— 22. R. 151
1S75), both of which may be ascended with guide without serious dif-
ficulty. Grand views.
Our route uow leads through firs and birches and (1/2 tr.) crosses
the Fleskedals-Eiv. It tlien ascends through wood to an open space
where we enjoy a *View of the Skagastelstinder (p. 156) to the left.
We then descend slightly and cross the river again to the (^^/2^t.;
21/2 hrs. from Vetti) four Fleskedals - Saetre, the middle one of
which, owned by Anfind Vetti, affords clean quarters (if open :
enquire at Vetti). Grand view of the Riingsbra and other Horunger.
The route to Tyinsholmen returns to the left bank of the
Fleskedals-Elv and follows the course of this stream. To the N. we
tirst observe Friken (see below), and afterwards the precipices of
the 'Nses' between the Fleskedal and the Uradal. In 3/4-I hr. we
recross the stream by a bridge. To the right rise the Stalsnaastinder,
with a large glacier. Farther on we ascend to (1^2 l^r.) the defile
of Smaaget, where we have another striking *View of the Horunger
behind us. To the right rises the Koldedalstind, to the left the
Fleskedalstind. We then descend rapidly towards the Upper Kolde-
dalsvand or Uradalsmulen and follow the whitewashed 'varder' to
the S., along the Koldedela, to the Lower Koldedalsuand. We
cross the Uradals-Elv 2 hrs. from Smaaget, and, after skirting the E.
bank of the lake, walk along the stream to the upper end of Lake
Tyin, whose N. bank we now follow to Tyinsholmen (p. 161), 2 hrs.
from the bridge over the Uradals-Elv.
c. From Vetti through the TJtladal, Crravdal, and Leirdal to
Rejshjem.
1st Day. From Guard Vetti to SkogadaUbeen (6-7 hrs.). Those whd
sleep here may ascend the Skogadalsnaasi in the afternoon. — 2nd Day.
FromSkogadalsbgen lo Slethavn (iQhvsi.). — 3rd Day. To R0jshjem{^-lhvs.).
From Vetti (p. 150) to the Fleskedals-Scetre, 21/2 hrs., see pp. 150,
151. Our route ascends the green Friken (4630 ft. ; the highest point
remains to the right), following the 'Varder', descends after 3/4 hr.,
and then skirts the slope high above the TJtladal, affording a *View
of the Horunger, whose sliarp peaks tower above a vast expanse of
snow: to the left, the Skagastelstinder rising above the Midtuiaradal,
then, the Styggedalstind, the E. buttress of the group, descending
into the Maradal, with the extensive Maradalsbrae (p. 174). To the
S. , in the prolongation of the Utladal, we see the lUejan and the
Fresviksfjeld (p. 137); to the S.E., the Stelsnaastind ; to the E.,
the sharp pyramid of the Uranaastind; to the N., the mountains of
the Skogailal and Utladal.
In 3/4 hr. more we see below us, to the left, on the other side
of the valley, the Vonnelid-Sceters, the starting-point of the first
climbers of the Store Skagastelstind (route from Gjertvasbeen, see
p. 156). In front of us are Skogadalsboen and the Guridals-Sieters
(p. 150). The path descends rapidly through fatiguing underwood
Ib2 R. 22. — Map,p. 146. SKOGADALSP.0EN. Jotunheim.
('Vir') to (3/4 hr.) a small Mrcli-wood. In lOmin. more the lonely
IJradal opens on the right, with an Immense mass of 'Ur', fallen
from the S. slopes. At the E. end of the Uradal rises the Uranaas-
tind (p. 163). We cross the Vradela by a small bridge ('Klop').
We then follow a cattle-track ('Koraak') through sparse birch-wood
at the foot of the Vrabjerg, cross a bridge over the Melkedela or
Skogadela, and (1/2 lir.) reach —
Skogadalsb«fen (2915 ft. ; Cluh Hut), consisting of two sseters,
always inhabited in summer (from 24th June till the beginning of
September). This is an excellent starting-point for excursions in
the E. part of the Horunger (p. 155). — Guide, Erik N. Nyhus.
From Skogadalsb^en we may scale the Skogadalsnaasi (6080 ft. ; 3-4
hrs., there and back), without a guide, by ascending the valley to the
(V2 hr.) Lusahoug (see below) and then climbing to the right. The direct
ascent fi-om the sseters is very steep. Grand mountain-view. — From
Skogadalsb^en we may also ascend the Uranaaslind (p. 163j.
The ascent of the OjertvasHnd (p. 175) takes 8-10 hrs. from Skoga-
dalsb0en, there and back. The ascent proper begins at GJertvasbeen
(2950 ft. ; p. 175) and leads up the Gjertvasnaasi. In I-IV2 hr. we reach the
tirst plateau (4265 ft.), and in 3 hrs. more the GJertvastop (4685 ft.). About
500 ft. higher we reach the base of the peak, then ascend a slope of snow,
and partly over rock, and lastly by a broad crest to the summit.
Continuing our journey through the Utladal, we pass a bridge,
crossed by the path to the Keiseren (p. 175 ), follow the E. bank of
the Utla, pass the abandoned Lusahoug-Sceter, and (3/4 hr.) reach
the confluence of the Store and Vetle Vtla. The latter descends on
the left from the Vetle ('little') Utladal, and forms several falls
over the rocky barrier of the Tunghoug. The Store Utla, along
which the steep path ascends, has forced its passage through the
rocks and dashes along its channel far below. On the left rises the
Hillerhei (5260 ft.). Fine view behind us of the Styggedalstinder
with the huge Gjertvasbrse. Grand scenery.
We next reach a higher region of the Store Utladal and (21/2 hrs.
from Skogadalsberen) cross to the right bank of the Utla by a bridge
(3325 ft. ; the route through the Rauddal to the Gjendebod follows
the left bank of the Utla; see p. 167). The Muran-Sater, which once
occupied this spot, has disappeared. Grand view of the Styggedal-
stinder to the W., the Kirke to the N.E., and the Rauddalstind to
the E. We keep to the right bank. On the S. side we observe the
Skogadalsnaasi and the second Melkedalstind; then a large water-
fall descending from the Rauddalsmund (p. 168), adjoining which
on the N. rise the Rauddalstinder. Nearly opposite the Rauddal is
the stone hut of Stor Hnlleren, used by reindeer-stalkers. In as-
cending we look back at intervals to see the impressive view of the
Horunger. The valley now takes the name of Gravdal. We next
have to wade (best near the Utla) through the Sand-Elv, descend-
ing on the left from the Sjortningsbrse, an offshoot of the Smierstab-
brae, above which towers the curiously shaped Storebj0rn (p. 160).
The path ascends and the flora becomes Alpine. We at length
Jotunheim. LEIRDAL. Map,p.l46. — 22.R. 153
come to the stone refuge-hut on the Leirvand (4930 ft,), 8-9 hrs.
from Skogadalsberen, where the routes from the Gravdal, from the
Leirdal, from the Visdal, and from the Hegvagel (p. 171) converge.
To the E. towers the curiously shaped Kirke (7070 ft.; comp.
below); to the N.E. the Tvcerholtenhorn (about 6890 ft.).
From thk Leikvand to Spiterstdlen in the Visdal, 572-61/2 hrs.,
very arduous. The route skirts the N. side of the Leirvand and crosses
the stream descending from the four tarns of the Kirkec/lup, between the
Kirke on the right and the Tvrerbottenhnrn on the left, as near as possible
to its junction with the Leirvand. We keep to the S. of the first three
tarns, then round the upper end of the third lake, and cross the brook
to the N. side of the valley, above the fourth tarn. We ne.'it descend into
the Upper Visdal, were we wade through the brooks descending from the
Uladalstindor, picking our way through holes and bogs, and hugging the
S. side of the stream as closely as possible. Shortly before joining the
route from Gjende a path (whieh we must look out fi.r) will lead us to the
bridges over two glacier-streams named the Uladalsaa and the Heilstuguaa.
The remainder of the route (to Spiterstulen 2 hrs. more) is described at
p. 172.
Descending the Leirdal, we skirt the vast Ymesfjeld (p. 158)
on the right, but the curious-looking Skarstind (7885 ft.) is the
only one of its peaks visible. To the left are the grand glacier
tongues of the Smerstabbrae and several of the Smerstabtinder. To
the N. of the Storebrae rises the Storebr at ind (7306 ft.). In 2 hrs.
from the Leirvand we reach the saeter of —
Slethavn (owned by Amund Elvesceter; good quarters). To the
W. tower the Stetind and the Skagsnaeb (6560 ft.), both of which
may be ascended by robust mountaineers with good guides (each
8-9 hrs., there and back). Visitors also speak well of the ascent of
the Kirke (see above; guide necessary), with descent through tlie
Gravdal to Skogadalsbeen (p. 152; 12-14 hrs.).
To the left, farther on, appears Loftet (7315 ft.), with its
glaciers. In 2 hrs. more we pass the prettily situated Ytterdcds-
Satre (3085 ft. ; plain quarters), near the lofty fall of the Duma.
We cross the Leira by a bridge and descend by the route described
at pp. 159, 158 to (4-5 hrs.) Rejshjem (p. 157).
d. From Skjolden on the Sognefjord to Fortun and Turtegre.
Iload from Skjolden to Fortun (6 Kil. ; Tarilf I). Good bridle- path
thence to the Turtegre-Sceler (3 hrs.). Guide and horse from Fortun to
Ht*jshjem (p. 157) via Fortun (2 days) 20 kr. ; guide alone 10 kr. (not ne-
cessary for Turtegr0).
Good Guides for the Horv'inger region: Ola J. lievge of Turtegr0 and
Ole N. /Hieiie of Fortun (these two hold certificates from the Turist-Foreniug
and speak English), Tliorgeir Sullieim of Eide, K. Furaas of Fortundal,
Ifalvai- Ilalvarsen and Torger G. Eide of Skjolden, Knud Fortun, of Fortun,
and Jvar ifiene of Turtegro.
Skjolden[jp. 144), a steamboat-station at the head of theLyster-
fjord, an arm of the Sognefjord, lies near the moutlis of the Merker-
eidsdal on the N. and the Fortundal ou the K. The steamboat
Ib^ R. 22.— Map, p. 146. FORTUN. Jotunheim.
pier, where the roads to hoth valleys begin, lies helow the gaard of
Eide (*Thorgeir Sulhehn^s Inn, 4 kr. per day), on an old moraine.
The road to Fortun, from which that to Merkereid (p. 144)
diverges at once to the left, crossing the bridge, follows the course
of the Fortundnls-Elv, past a large ice-house, and skirts the
moraine of Eide. It then leads along the S. bank of the milk-
coloured Eidsvand, beyond which we see the Fortundal, with the
huge precipice of the Jersingnaasi (3088 ft. ; N.) and tlie water-
falls mentioned below. The route next ascends the left bank of
the Fortundals-Elv. The fertile valley is enclosed by wooded slopes.
To the N.E. rises the Fanaraak (p. 160^, behind us lies the fjord.
To the right the Lingsfos falls from a great height. The road skirts
the overhanging rocks of the Smalaberg. On the right is the Kvcefos.
Also on the right, high above us, is Gaard Fuglesteg (p. 149).
6 Kil. Fortun i Lyster (150 ft.), a group of gaards with a new
church. The skyds- station, with Ole N. 0iene''s Inn (good and
moderate), lies l/'o M. above the church.
Walk up tbe Fortundal, with a line view of the Jersingnaasi (see
above) on the left, to the (10-12 min.) Ovabergs-Elv, which issues from the
gorge of Skagagjel in a fine fall and flows down to the Fortundals-Elv in
two arms. Crossing both bridges, and ascending a rough path to the right,
we pass behind the cottages and climb to a rock projecting over the fall (cau-
tion necessary). — We may then go on, in 5 min. more, to a bridge over
tbe Fortundals-Elv and (without crossing it) to a small rocky bill by the
Havshelfos (where wooden steps descend to the salmon-fishing apparatus), and
thus obtain a view of the beautiful valley in both directions, of the Lia-
bnie to tbe N. (in the distance), and of the upper part of the Kvsefos to the S.
The road continues to follow the left bank of the Fortuns-Elv, be-
tween the Tuffen on the left and the Sognefjeld on the right, to Svenshei
(6-7 Kil. from Fortun). It here diminishes to a path and crosses to the
right bank. The valley becomes wilder. To the left is the Svaidalsbroe, to
the right the Liabroe (6100 ft.). At a point about 21/2 hrs. from Svenshwi
we may either ascend to the left over the Kleppeskar or follow the great
bend of the river past the poor gaard of Bagli. Farther on, beyond the
sfeters of Aa and Tvoerdal, we reach (n/2-8 hrs. from Fortun) the —
Narstedals-Sseter (go:id quarters at Mis ^iene's), situated near the open-
ing of the two side-valleys of Midtdalen and Vetledalen, and the starting
point for several lofty Mountain Passes (guides necessary). — 1. We ascend
the Fortundal, with a view of the Steneghrw to the left, and at the foot of
the Krossbakkenose we turn to the right for the Ilvand (4308 ft.), a lake in
the bleakest mountain-environment, at the E. base of tbe huge Tundredals-
kirke (6500 ft.) and covered with ice even in summer. We follow the
E. bank of the lake (rough walking) and ascend for about 275 yds. more,
after which we descend (fine view), partly over glaciers, to the TundredaU-
Scetei- (12-14 hrs from Nizrrstedal), where the night is spent. Next day we
descend via Kvilingen to Aamot, whence we go on to Lindsheim, near the
church of Skeaker (p. 70). — 2. For tbe second pass wc follow the Fortun-
dal us above but ascend to the left at the Krossbakkenose to the Fortun-
dalsbrfv, and cross this, between the Tundredalskirke on the E. and the
Tvseraadalskirke on the W. (as described at p. 67), to the Soia-Sater
(9 hrs.). — 3. We ascend the Fortundal, cross the stream by a new bridge,
and ascend the Qravdal to the glacier. On the W. side of this we descend
through the Gr0ndal to the Fosse-Swler, in the M^rkereidsdal (see p. 144).
A shorter footpath, beginning at the skyds-station, and a bridle-
path (practicable also for baggage-carts), winding up between the
skyds-station and the church, ascend the steep Fortungaldcr, afford-
_£idsb 1 L paroi.
EnEjl.Miles
3 ^
<•>• '3 "■■:■. V- itf ' "V .ft
Jotunheim. TURTEGR0. Map,p.U6. — 22.R. 155
ing retrospects of the Fortundal. The worst of the ascent is over in
3/4 hr. On the top begins a new carriage-road, which ascends the
fertile Bergsdcd, passing the two gaards of Berge (1085 ft.). Good view
of the falls of the Ouaberys-Elv and of the old road, below. We cross
the Elv by an iron bridge and ascend in a wide curve to the left,
past the gaard of Sevde. In 1/2 ^^- ^e reach tlie second terrace of
tlic valley, where the road comes to an end. The path runs up
and down, affording, at the gaard of Optun, a view of the foaming
Optunsfos. Here begins another steep ascent of 1/2 hr., passing
the Eik-Salre. At the top the Ovabergs-Elv forms the Dokkafos,
near the s;eter of Dokka, while another fall is formed to the right,
high up, by a tributary stream. In front rises the First Dyrhaugs-
tind. To the right, 1/2 lir. beyond Dokka, is the Simogalfos, past
which a path leads to the Riinggadn-Saeters (p. 156), crossing the
Elv, The main route remains on the right bank, passes below the
saeter of Gjessingen, crosses the stream descending from the Skagas-
telsbotn, which forms several fine falls ( Turtegrefossene), and reaches
(about 3 hrs. from Fortun) —
Turtegr* ('2790 ft.), where fair food and tolerable accommodation
may be obtained in the mountain-inns of Ivor 0iene and Ole Berge
(50 beds in all; R., B., or S. 1, D. II/2 tr. ). Horses are usually, and
guides always obtainable here (Ole Jensen Berge and those named
at p. 153). Turtegre is headquarters forexcursions amid the A/oruni^er,
the grandest group of mountains in Jotunheim, with precipitous
slopes and needle-like peaks, from which glaciers descend in all
directions. The district attracts a steadily increasing number of
Danish, Norwegian, and English mountaineers. — About l '2 M.
beyond the inns the path forks, the left branch ascending rapidly
to the Sognefjeld (Rejshjem, p. 157), the right leading to Helgedal
and the Keiseren Pass (p. 175).
One of the finest points of view, and in any case the most easily
accessible, is the -Oscarshoug (3730 ft.), a few paces to the right of the
path to the Sognefjeld, about V2 lir. above Turtegi-0. At the top is a
varde , commemorating the visit of King Oscar II., when Crown Prince,
in 1860. The view embraces the Fanaraak (p. 160); then the Helgedal,
through which leads the route to the Keiseren Pass; farther to the right
and more distant, the Styggedalstinder; nearer, the three huge Skaga-
st0lstinder; the Maradalstind, rising over the extensive Maradalsbrae ; to
the right of the glacier, the Dyrhaugstinder; to the right of these and
farther ofT, the Riingstinder (Soleitind and Austabottind not visible).
Still more extensive is the view from the "Klypenaasi (8757 ft.), to
the N.W. of Gjessingen (see above), which may be ascended in 2-2'/2 hrs.
(guide 2 kr.). It commands the best general survey of the Horunger,
from the Austabottind and Soleitind on the W. to the Styggedalstinder
on the E.
A visit to the grand and wild *'Skagast0lsbotn should on no account
be omitted (there and back 5-6 hrs. ; guide 2 kr.). The route passes
near the two )Si-a?o.«/»;e(sa;ters; right), crosses the stream twice, and ascends
through the valley between the Dyrhaugstinder on the W. and the Kol-
naati (5414 ft.) on the E. The floor of the Skagastelsbotn is covered by
the Skagastelshra; (4430 ft.) which projects its icy fcot into a weird lake,
where the formation and birth of icebergs may be studied most profitably.
156 R.22. — Map,p.l46. DYRHAUGSTIND. Jotunheim.
To the W. of the Dyrhaugatinder opens the *Riingsbotn , a huge
basin also containing a large glacier, surrounded by the Eiingstind, the
Dyrhaugstind, and (W.) the Levnaasi or Nonhougen ^ prolonged towards
the tS. by the Soleitinder and the Austabottinder. The excursion from
Turtegr0 (there and hack) occuines 6 hrs. (guide 2 kr.). At the mouth
of the valley lie the Riinggadu-Satre.
Besides the Riingsbotn and the Skagast0lsbotn we may also visit the
Styggedalsbotn, the easternmost in the Horiinger group, with the magni-
licent Styggedalshrce, bounded on the W. by the Kolnaasi, on the E. by
the Simlenaasi, and on the S. by the Styggedalstinder. The way passes
the Uelgedah-Sceter (p. 175).
One of the tinest easier ascents from Turtegr^* is that of the N. "Dyr-
haugstind (6234 ft.), the nearest of several peaks of the Dyrhaugsfjeld
(with guide, in about 4 hrs.). We ascend rapidly past the Skagastjale to the
top of the Dyrhaug, and follow its crest, partly over 'Ur', to the summit.
The 'View embraces towards the E. the Skagast0lstinder and to the right
of them the wild Maradalstinder; to the W. the Soleitind, Austabot-
tind, and Riingstindcr; due S. the other Dyrhaugstinder. Lower down,
on the left, lies the Skagast0lsbrce, on the right the Riingsbrre. Between
the Skagast^lstinder and the Dyrhaugstinder we see the snow-mountains
on Lakes Bygdin and Tyin; to the N. the Fanaraak and the Sm^rstab-
tinder; to the W. the vast Joatedalsbrfe as far as the Lodalskaupe (p. 146).
The Englishman, Mr. W. C. Slingsby, and the Dane, Jlerr C. HaU, have
been mainly instrumental in destroying the reputation for invincibility,
long enjoyed by the chief peaks of tbe Horunger. According to the report
contributed by the latter to the year-book of the Norwegian Tourist Society
(1896), the following are comparatively easy : Northern SkagastaUtind (about
1220 tt.; Keilhau and Boeck, 1820); the passage of i\\e, SkagasteUhrie to the
Skagastels Hut, which lies on the 'skar' or 'band' (ca. 6740 ft.) above the
Skagast0lsbotn (3-4 hrs. from Turtegr0); and the Fanaraak (p. 160; beyond
the limits of the Horunger district).
The following are more trying: the highest Dyrhaugstind (6895 ft.);
the S. Dyrhaugstinder (ca. 6460 ft.) ; the Gjertvastind O'liOit.); the Slelsmara-
dalstind(&^\.l ft.); the N. Midimaradalstinder (ca. G330 ft.); the middle Riings-
tind (6282 ft.); the E. Riingstind (ca. 6230 ft.); the Skagastelsneb (ca. 7215 ft.);
the S. Maradalslind ; the passage of the Siyggedalsbrce to the Gjertvasbrm.
Suitable for experts "nly, with able guides, are the Store Riingstind
(6910 ft.; there and back 9-10 hrs. ; first ascended bv Hr. C. Hall in 1890);
the Soleitind (6825 ft.; 10 hrs.); the highest Maradals'tinder (ca. 7100 ft.); the
Midtmaradalstind (6310 ft.); the pass over the Riingsbrw and the Stelsmara-
ditlsbrce to Vetti (p. 15'0; and the pass from the Midtmaradalsbrce over the
Midtmaradalstinder to the St0lsmaradalsbr(e.
Still greater experience is required by the Store Styggedalstind (7800 ft. ;
Hall, 1883); the Vesle SkagasiaUtind (7710 ft.; Hall, 1885); the Centraltind
(7750 ft. ; Hall, 1885); and the pass leading from the Maradalsbrw over the
'skar' between the Store Styggedalstind and the Gjertvasiind to the Ojertvasbrm.
The most difficult of all, requiring not less than 12-16 hrs., are the Store
Atistabottind (7225 ft.; Hall, 1883); the Mellemste Skagasterlslind (7665 ft.;
Hall, 1884); the Store Styggedalstind (7805 ft.; Hall, 1883); and the Store
Skagastjalstind (7725 ft.), once thought impossible, like the Jlatterhorn,
but conquered by Jlr. Slingsby in 1876 and now ascended several times
every year (guide 30 kr. ; a hut with a few rugs is the only sleeping-
place; hence to the summit ca. 3 hrs , descent in 2V2 hrs.).
An interesting Glacier Walk of 12-14 hrs. is the passage of the
Skagastelstindskar or Midtmaradalsskar (5758 ft.), between the Skagast^ls-
tind and the Dyrhaugstinder, over the Midtmaradalsbrse to the Midtmara-
dal and the Utladal (p. 151), and down the latter to Vetli (p. 150).
e. From Andvord to R«rjshjem. The Galdh«pig.
Andvord, see p. 66. Tlic road to Hajshjem (14 Kil.) ascends
on the left bank of the Bcevra, often close to the stream. At one
Jotunheim. K0JSHJEM. Map,r:i40.— '2-2.R. 1")7
point, the Siaberg, where there is a mill, the ravine is very narrow,
and huge blocks of rock have fallen into it from above. In the
background rise the (laldheer (7300 ft.), which conceal the Gald-
hepig, and the Juvhra, with their imposing masses of ice and
snow. To the left, on the opposite bank, are the saards of Glinis-
dal and the falls of the Glaama (see below). We pass the gaard Sul-
hjem, on the right, with a waterfall in the gorge, and then the gaard
Gnupnr. The road crosses the Bsevra.
Rfl'jshjem or Redsheim (1800 ft.; Inn kept by Ole Halvorssen
Rejshjem, the oldest guide to the Jotunheim, who speaks English
and knows the country thoroughly, but does not now act as guide ;
house often full; telephone) lies at the junction of the Eaeverdal
and the Visdal (p. 172). and is the best starting-point for tlic
asi'cnt of the GaMhepig and other fine excursions. It is a favourite
resort of the Norwegians for a stay of some duration. By the upper
bridge over the Baevra, about 175 yds. above the hotel, are several
. 'giant-cauldrons', the largest being about 10 ft. in diameter.
The following is a pleasant walk of 1-2 hours. We follow the
Andvord road for 12 min. , and cross the bridge to a rocky hill,
made an island by the two branches of the BaBvra and commanding
a fine view of Rejshjem and the Galdheer. A small foot-bridge
crosses thence to the right bank, on which a pleasant meadow-path
leads to the left through a plantation of alders to Glimsdal , a
group of farms, where the Glaama descends in four falls. We
may then ascend by the broad track on the left bank of the Glaama
in 20 min. more to the gaard Engurrt. at the top of the fall.
The Ascent of thk G.vLDHerrG offers no particular difficulty
and during the height of the season is acromplished daily, often by
Norwegian ladies. The night is spent in the Jiivvashytte (4-5 hrs.),
whence the summit is reached in 2l/o-3 hrs. more.
We follow the Baiverdal road (p. 159) for 2 M., and near a white
church ascend the bridle-path to the left to (1 V2 'ir.) the Raubergs-
Stele, which may also be reached by a direct footpath in II/2 lir.
We next ascend to the S.W. to (1 hr.) the barren and stony Galde-
hei (5240 ft.), which the bridle-path, however, avoids. Towards
tlic E. the view is confined to the Glittertind. In ll/2hr- more wo
reach the Juwashytte fca. 6230 ft.; 20 beds, good and not dear,
but often full), the property of the guide Knud Olsen Vole. Ad-
ja'-ent is the small Juvvand, backed by the TverbrcF. against which
the semicircular cliffs of Kjedelen (7'iOO ft.) are seeTi in relief. Ad-
mirable view of the Troldsteinshacr and the Glittertind to the E.
and of the Memurutinder, the Beshe, etc., to the S.E.
At the Juvvashytte begins the ascent proper (guide 6 kr., each
additional person 2 kr. ; Knud Vole orhis son). A fair path leads over
stony debris to the snow-flelds. In front we have a continuous view
of the summit of the Galdhepig and the rocky arete of the Sveilnaasi,
with the Keilhaustop and Sveilnaaspig, looking almost black as they
158 R.2l>.~-Mirp,p.l46. GALD1I0PIG. Jotunheim.
rise above tlie white snovv-flelds of the Styggehrcn or Vetljuvbrce.
Crossing snow and a stony tract, we reach the 'Varde' (6365 ft.)
on the Styggebrae in l-li/2lir., and take 3/4-I hr. more to cross the
glacier (beware of the crevasses). We next ascend a ridge of rock
covered with loose stones. Lastly we mount a toilsome snowy art'te
to the (Y2 tr.) summit, with a shelter-hut, stocked with coff( e,
port, and champagne.
The **Galdh«'pig (8400 ft.; accent on first syllable), the loftiest
mountain in Norway, is the highest peak of the Ymesfjeld, a pecu-
liar mountain-plateau with precipitous sides, enclosed by the val-
leys of the Leira, Visa, and Bjevra, and connected with the other
mountains of Jotunheim by the H^gvagel (p. 171) only. The view
is marvellously extensive. On the N.E. it extends to the Snehwtta
(p. 72) and the Rondane (p. 75), to the left of the Glittertind
(p. 173), which is about the same height as the Galdhepig; to the
S.E., S., and S.W. extends the whole of Jotunheim; to the S.
the Gausta (p. 32), 125 M. distant, is said to be visible in clear,
weather beyond the Uladalstinder; to the S.W. are the Smerstab-
tinder and the Horunger ; to the W. are the Jostedalsbrse and the
Nordfjord mountains. No inhabited valleys are visible.
A fair path leads from I he Juvvashytte across a glacier and then down,
linally crossing the Vita bridge, to Spitersiulen (p. 172). — Another path
descends to the W. to the Elve-Sater (p. 159).
The Lomsegg (8885 ft.), to the N. of R^'ishjem, may be ascended on
horseback via the gaard Sulheim (p. 157) in 5-6 hrs. Imposing view of the
Glittertind and Galdh«(pig, and of the Smffrstabbrapigge and the Fanaraak
to the S.W. The view of the valley is also very picturesque.
The view from the Hestbraepigge (6095 ft.) reveals the Jotunheim
range in longer array than that from the Lomsegg. Riding practicable part 1 f
the way. The latter part of (he ascent over snow and ice is nearly level.
From R0jshjem to Lake GJende, see pp. 173-171.
f. From Rejshjem over the Sognefjeld to Turtegref.
1st Day. To the Bwver tun -Sailer, a walk of 6-6'/2 hrs. ; driving practic-
able to (8 Kil.) the Elve-Sceter. — •2nd Day. To Turlegre, 7-8 hrs. (path
well marked by 'varder', but guide desirable). Horse and guide from
R0jshjem to Fortun (p. 154) via Turtegr0, 20 kr.
Rejshjem, see p. 157. A carriage-road ascends through the
Bceverdal (or Beverdal), on the rightbank of the stream, to (41/9 Kil.)
Bceverdals Kirke. On the W. side of the valley is Bakkeberg, with
large farm-buildings amid smiling corn-fields. The road, partly
hewn in the rock, ascends steeply through the grand gorge of Gal-
derne, with its overhanging cliffs. Farther on the ravine exfands
to a pleasant basin, with the gaards of Horten, where grain and
potatoes are cultivated. To the left, above us, are the ends of the
glaciers on the N. side of the Galdhfrpig. About 2 Kil. from the
Bffiverdal church the road crosses the Leira, which falls into the
Baevra a little lower down, and then follows the valley of the
latter, passing the ssters of Rusten and Flekken.
Jotunheim. li.l' VKRDAL. Map,p. U6. — -J'J. li. 159
Just before reaching the bridge the route to Turtcgr^ (narrow
cart-track) turns to thf left into the Leirdal. After following the
right bank of the Leira for 2 Kil. more, it reaches the bridge below
the large farm of Elve-Sseter (good accommodation), situated on the
opposite side of the river and surrounded by tilled fields and pas-
tures. This has recently become a favourite starting-point for the
ascent of the Galdhepig (via the Mykings-Sater to the Juvvashytte,
with guide, d^/o-i hrs.).
Beyond the Elve-Saeter a tolerable bridle-path ascends the valley,
above the left bank of the Leira. To the left are the slopes of tlie
Store Juvbra, with the Lille Galdhepig in the background, and the
Store Grovbro'. A bridge, leading to the Leirdals-ScEter, is passed
on our left. To the right, fully an hour from the Elve-Saeter, are
the two Lisatre. On the left descends the Ilfos; facing ns is Loftet
(p. 153), with its extensive glaciers; nearer, on the left, ou the
other side of the Leira, is the high fall of the Duma, below which
lie the Ytterdals-Saetre.
About 2 hrs. from the Elve-Saeter we leave the Leirdal (through
which a path leads past the Ytterdals-Saetre to the Leirvand; see
p. 153) and ascend to the right to the Bceverkjwm-Hals (about
3600 ft.; 'Hals', a pass). We here obtain a fine *View of the flat
upper basin of the Leirdal , set in snow-mountains and glaciers.
At the Bakkeberg-Sater, about 8 hrs. from the Elve-Sfeter, we come
in sight of the Heildalvand, from which the Bakke-Elv issues in a
waterfall, and of the Blaahei, generally covered with snow.
We now descend, passing the BceverkjcFrn, with its numerous
promontories and Si'eters (right ), into the Upper Baeverdal, which
we follow to its head. The path skirts the S.E. bank of the lake,
and after 1/4 hr., near the Kusten-Sater, crosses a new bridge over
the noisy Baevra (the old bridge, '/4^'"- farther on, was destroyed in
1897). We then follow the N. slope of the valley for l'/4 hr., above
the Baverlunvand (3046 ft.), to the W. of which rises the Dumhe.
At the W. end of the lake we at length reach (41/2 Ins. from Elve-
Saeter) the —
Bsevertun-Sseter (3050 ft.), two houses with good quarters for
10-12 persons and tolerable food.
About 1 4 hr. after leaving Basvertun the route to the Sogne-
f.jcld (recently improved) crosses the Dommabro or Dombrui, where
the Doinina, shortly before its junction with the Bievra, flows under-
ground. We then ascend for about 1^/4 hr. through the monotonous
valley to the Nupshaug, a curious rocky knoll in the middle of the
valley. Adjoining it is a fall of the Baevra; to the left are two other
waterfalls. We now ascend rapidly to the left to a higher region
of the valley, pass (l/2hr.) the ruined stone hut of Krosboden, and
see to the left the ^Smerstabbrce, one of the grandest glaci-ers in
Norway, overtopped by the Smerstabtinder. Of these peaks either
the Saksa or the serrated Skejn may be ascended from the BaRvcr-
160 R.22. — Map,p. 146. SOGNEFJELD. Jotimheim.
tun-Sseter with a good guide in 12-14 hrs. (there and hack); the
highest peak, the Storebjern ('Big Bear' ; 7510 ft. ; ascended for the
first time hy Hr. Carl Hall in 1835), to the S., is more difficult and
takes longer. The Bsevra issues from the Sm^rstahhrffi.
In 3/4 hr. from Kroshoden we come to the first of the stone varder
with which the whole route across the Sognefjeld (or DeUfjelct) is
marked. In ^j^^r. more we reach the highest point of the Fjeld (ca.
4900 ft.), whence we enjoy a superb *View of the Smerstabbrse and
the Smarstabtinder. We here cross the boundary of Bergens-Stift.
To the left lies the Rauskjeldvand, the first of the large lakes, with
which the plateau Is strewn. About 1 hr. from the summit of the
fjeld is a curious varde called the '■Kammerherre\ a high mass of
rock with a pointed stone on the top. Farther on, to the left, is the
extensive Prestesteinvand, with its numerous bays, which we skirt
for about 2 hrs. In the distance, to the E., beside the Smerstab-
tinder, rises the Kirke (p. 153), to the S.E. theUranaastind (p. 163).
The glaciers descending from the Fanarauk (6690 ft.) almost join
the Prestesteinvand on the S. Farther on the route descends to the
^errewand, crossing its discharge by the wooden //erreua«6rM/('Brui',
bridge ; 4305 ft.). The Smerstabtinder now disappear from the
retrospect. — The route rounds the W. buttress of the Fanaraak
and descends to the Juvvand (4115 ft.). To the right, in the
distance, lies the broad back of the Jostedalsbrae. In front rises
the whole range of the Hon'mger, including the Riingstinder, the
Dyrhaugstinder, and the Skagastelstinder. The best point of view
is the *Oscarshoxig (p. 155), a slight eminence to the left of the
path, 11/2 ir. from the Herrevasbrui.
We now descend by a good path to (V2 ^r.) Turtegre (p. 155),
reached after a walk of about 8 hrs. from Baivertun.
g. From Skogstad or Nystuen to Lake Tyin and Eidsbugaren
or Tyinsholmen.
The distance from Skogstad to Framnics, on Lake Tyin, is 11 Kil.
(pay for 17); from Nystuen it is 10 Kil. (pay for 16). The excursion
thence via Tvindehougen to the top of the SHnegff, and back via Tyinsholmen.,
takes 8-9 hrs. Those who are making the tour sketched at pp. 148, 149
pass the ni^ht at Tyinsholmen. Others may go on from Framnfes to
Nystuen (p. 57) the same evening.
The road to Lake Tyin, diverging from the Valders road be-
tween Skogstad and Nystuen (p. 57), crosses the foaming Bjer-
dela, descending from the left near the Opdals-Sater (2940 ft.),
and ascends steadily along the slope of the Stelsnesi (to the right,
the Raubergskamp, p. 57) to the —
Hotel Framnces (very fair; R. IV4-IV2) I^- -2 kr., B. or S. 80 0.),
situated close to the S. end of Lake Tyin, 6 Kil. from the parting
of the ways. The Hotel Tyin, behind, is less comfortable. Fine
distant view, over the lake, of the steep Urauaastind and other
Jotunheim. LAKE T YIN. Map, p. 7 40. — 92. R. 161
peaks. — The ascent of the Storgalden, which affords a wide pan-
orama, takes 2i/o-3 hrs. (there and back; rough path; guide 1 kr.).
Lake Tyin (3535 ft.) is 14 Kil. long, 1-21/2 Kil. broad, and at
places over 300 ft. deep. Its banks, like those of the other Jotun-
heim lakes, are uninhabited, except by a few 'Fsekarle' (cowherds)
in summer. The masses of snow in the hollows, often reaching
down to the water's edge , enhance the appearance of desolate
loneliness. — The row across the lake from Framn^ea to Tvinde-
hongen (for 1 , 2, 3 persons with 1 rower 2 kr. 40, 2 kr. 80, 3 kr. 20 ». ;
with 2 rowers 3 kr. 60, 4 kr. 40, 5 kr. 20 e. ) takes at least 2 hrs.,
to Tyinsholmen 3 hrs. (for 1, 2, 3, 4 persons with 1 rower 2 kr. 80,
3 kr. 20, 3 kr. 60 0., 4 kr. ; with 2 rowers 4 kr., 4 kr. 80, 5 kr. 50,
6 kr. 20 0.). The Melkedalstinder become prominent to the right
of the Uranaastind as we proceed. To the left we see the large W.
bay, whence the Aardela issues ; farther on are the Koldedal and
Koldedalstind (p. 163). The Falketind and other peaks also come
into sight. The general view is highly picturesque.
Travellers bound for the Skinegg disembark at Tvindehougen,
a dilapidated club-hut of the Turist-Forening.
The *Skinegg(4800ft.)is ascended from Tvindehougen in ll/2hr.
The way can scarcely be missed, though there is no path. From
the hut we go at first towards the N., in a line almost parallel
with the bank of the lake. Beyond the first brook we turn towards
the hill, and then ascend on the left bank of the second brook.
A 'stone man' on the ridge, near the brook, which we cross at this
point (40 min.), serves as a guide. Similar piles of stones farther
on also indicate the way, which crosses some patches of snow and
passes to the right of a small lake. The best point of view is the
N. peak, to the left; the S. peaks, though higher (5145 ft. and
5266 ft.), lie too far back.
View (see p. 162). To the S. we survey part of Lake Tyin (not Tviudo-
hougen) and the whole of tlic Fillefjeld, with the Stugun0se near Nystuen
and the majestic Suletind ^5810 ft.). Of more absorbing interest are the
mountains to the W. and N., where the Breikvamseggen, the Gjeldedals-
tinder (7090 ft.) and Koldedalstinder (p. 163; Falketind, St/alsnaastind), with
their vast mantles of snow, and farther distant the Horunger (beginning
with the Skagasf0l3tind on the left, and ending with the Styggedalstind
to the right ; p. 155), rise in succession. Next to these are the Fleskedals-
tinder, the Langeskavl, the Uranaastind (p. 163), the Melkedalstinder, the
Sjugultind, and other peaks. To the N. rise the mountains on the N.W.
side of Lake Gjendc, and still more prominent are the Sletmarkh0,
Galdebergstind, and Thorfinstinder on Lake Bygdin. Of that lake itself
the W. end only is visitile, with the huts of Eidsbugaren.
The descent to Tyinsholmen on the N.W. or to Eidsbugaren on
the N. takes about 1 hr. Towards the foot of the latter route we
have to cross several arms of a copious stream descending from the
lakes on the 'Eid' between Lake Tyin and Lake Bygdin.
Tyinsholmen (Hotel, with 20 beds, very fair, English spoken;
boat-skyds to Framnses, see p. KiO) lies at the N.E. end of Lake
Tyin and is a good starting-point for several fine excursions (see
Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 11
162 R.22.- Map. p. 146. SKINEGG.
1 flfi ^
Jotunheim.
fin
1 Ml « 1^
\.,.
/ ,11 \
^^
■Mi
vfi
il
Jotunheim. EIDSBUGARF.N. Map,p.ljn.- .-22. R. 163
below). — A broad road leads hence over the 'Eid' (isthmus) to
(3/4 hr.) the —
Eidsbugaren Hotel, at the W. end of Lake Bygdin (p. 164; ca.
3490 ft. above the !;ea). It is one of the oldest hotels In Jotunheim,
but it is not so comfortable as the hotel at Tyinsholmen.
The Ascent of the Langeskavl, there and back, takes half-a-day
(guide necessary, 2 kr.}. We proceed to the E. from Eidsbugaren up the
course of the Melkedela (p. 173), and at the tup of the hill, instead of
turning to the right into the Melkedal, enter a side-valley to the left,
where we keep as far a^ possible to the right. The bare summit of the
Langeskavl (0115 ft.) towers above masses of snow. The view embraces
the mountiiins seen to the W. of the Skinegg, to which we are now
nearer, and also the whole of Lake Bygdin as far as the liitihorn.
The Ascent of the Ukanaastind from Eidsbugaren takes 6-7 hrs.,
or a whole day there and back (guide necessary, 4 kr.). We follow the
route to the Langeskavl, which after a time we leave to the W. in order
to ascend the extensive Uranaashvae. We cross that glacier to the Brw-
skar, whence we look down into the Skogadal to the W. (p. 174). Lastly
an ascent on the N. side of about 800 ft. more to the summit of the 'TJra-
naastind (7u45 ft.), the highest E. point of the Uranaase, which is always
free from snow. The extensive view vies with that from the Galdh0pig
(p. 158). Towards the W. the Uranaastind descends precipitously into the
Uradal (p. 152). To the E. it sends forth two glaciers, the UranaasbrEe,
already mentioned, and the Melkedalsbrw, the E. arm of which descends
into the Jlelkedal (p. 173), while the N. arm, divided by the Melkedals-
pigye and furrowed with crevasses, descends partly into the Melkedal, and
partly into the Skogadal fp. 174).
The Koldedalstind or Falketind (6700 ft.), to the N.W. of Lake Tyin,
ascended in 1820 by Prof. Keilhau and C/ir. Boeck, and the first of the Jo-
tunheim mountains ever climbed, is ascended in 8-10 hrs. (guide 4 kr.).
We ascend the valley of the Koldedela (p. 151) to the foot of the Falke-
tind, and climb to the top, most of the way over glaciers. — The dangerous
descent to the Koldcdal should be avoided; better return by the same
route.
•Excursion to the Store Melkedalsvand. see p. 174. — Through the
Koldedal to the Fleskedals-Swire and Vetli, see p. 150.
h. From Fagemses to the Hotel Jotnnheim, and up Lake
Bygdin to Eidsbugaren.
Two days. 1st Day. Drive to (56 Kil.) the Hotel Jotunheim. — 2nd Day.
Ascend the Bitihorn early, 3-4 brs. there and back; row up Lake Bygdin
to Eidsbugaren in 6-8 hrs. This approach to the .lotunheim is apt to be
tedious owing to the long and sometimes windy passage of Lake Bygdin.
Fagerncrs, see p. 55. — The road, which diverges to the right
from the Valders route at the Fagerluiid Hotel, ascends the valley of
the 0stre-Slidre-Elv, running a little way from the left bank of the
stream. Nearly level at first, it rapidly ascends through wood. To
the left, below, lies theSalbo-Fjord, with several gaards high above
it, and snow-mountains in the distance. We pass, on the right, the
loftily situated church of SIcrutvold or Skruivaal and (farther on)
that of liogne. Below us, to the left, is the Voldlo-Fjord, at the
N. end of which is the church of Voldho, whence a narrow road leads
to the left, over the Siidreaas, to ("26 Kil.) Fosheim and ('20 KiL)
Leken (see p. 55).
Our road crosses the Vinde-Elv, and then skirts the Haggefjord.
11*
164 R.22.— Map,p.l46. HOTEL JOTUNHEIM. Jotunheim.
23 Kil. Hseggenses Hotel (very fair). — To the E. rise tlie
Mellene mountains, the W. slope of which is the 0iangenshei, a
splendid point of view (ascent 3-3'/2 ^rs. ; guide 1 kr. 60 0.),
The road now ascends steeply to Hcegge and the chief church of
0stre Slklre, an old 'Stavekirke' (p. 29), existing at least as early
as 1327, but largely rebuilt. To the left is the gaard of Northorp.
Farther on, also to the left, are the Dalsfjord and the Merstafjord,
connected by a river with each other and with the Hedalsfjord.
11 Kil. Skammestein (good quarters). Farther on the road runs
above the Hedalsfjord. Beyond Okshovd, where a road to the Hedal-
Saeters diverges to the right, the main road bends to the left towards
Lake 0iangen. Fine view of the lake, with the Slettefjeld, Mug-
natind, and Bitihorn (see below). We pass the Beito-Saters.
The road ascends gradually and crosses a marshy plateau enclosed
by mountains. To the W. is the Mugnatind, and to the N. the
Bitihorn (see below), on the E. side of which the road leads across
a pass. Farther on it crosses the Vinstra, the discharge of Lake
Bygdin, and ends at the —
22 Kil. Hotel Jotunheim, at the E. end of the liaufjord, an arm
of Lake Bygdin, so called from the iron with which its water is im-
pregnated ('raud', 'red', meaning 'red').
The ascent of the "Bitihorn (5250 ft.) from the Hotel Jotunheim takes
4-5 hrs., there and back (guide not indispensable). We ascend the W.
slope the whole way, keeping well to the left of several swamps at the
beginning. The 'Horn' soon becomes visible, serving as a guide. For
an hour the route traverses 'Rab\ or ground covered with underwood
(juniper, dwarf birches, Arctic willows), and the soft soil peculiar to
the Norwegian mountains, and for another hoiir it ascends steep rocks.
Magnificent view of the imposing Alpine landscape to the W., and of the
vast plateau to the E., relieved by several peaks and large lakes.
From the Hotel Jotunheim to Eidsbugaben by boat in 8 his.
(for 1, 2, 3 persons with two rowers 8kr. AO0., lOkr., 12kr.). —
From the Raufjord a narrow strait leads to Lake Bygdin (3484 ft.),
the largest of the three lakes of Jotunheim, about 25 Kil. in length
from K. to W., ll/2-2V2Kil- in breadth, and at places 1700 ft. deep.
On the N. it is bounded by lofty mountains, on whose steep slopes
large herds of cattle are pastured. The S. bank is lower and less
picturesque. Storms sometimes make the navigation of the lake
impossible. To walk along the N. bank to Eidsbugaren (12-14 hrs.)
is wearisome, though free from danger since the Tourist Club
improved the path and bridged the streams.
The boat skirts the N. bank. On the right we first observe the
Sund-Sater ani the mouth of the Breilaupa. (Path to Gjendesheim,
see p. 171.) About 4 Kil. farther on are the 'Falseger' of Hestvolden,
whence we may ascend the *Kalvaahegda (7160 ft.), a still finer
point than the Bitihorn, affording a magnificent view of Jotunheim.
We next pass the deep Thorfinsdal (p. 165), with remains of
old moraines at its entrance. At the base of the Thorftnstind
(6932 ft.) we then reach the Langedals - Sater, and close to it
Jotunheim. LAKE BYGDIN. Map, p. 146.— 2^. R. 165
Nyboden, a dilapidated clialet. The ascent of the Thorflnstind
hence takes 7 hrs. (there and back}. The view is said to rival that
from the Kalvaahegda.
From Nyboden to Lake Gjende (p. 166), two routes. One, very grand,
hut toilsome, leads (o the N.W. through the Langedal, passing the Lattge-
dnlstjwvn (4iKK) ft.), and crossing the Langedalsln-w (6233 ft.) lietwcen the
Slelmavkpig (7070 ft.) on the left and the SvartdaUpigge (7030 ft.) on the right,
into the Vale Aadal. Guide (2kr.) rarely to be found at Nyboden. The other
route, preferable and comparatively easy (4-5 hrs. ; guide, not indi.spen.sable,
2kr.), leads through the Thorfinsdal and the Svartdal. It ascends steeply at
tirst on the W. side of the Thorllnsdals-Elv, commanding the whole valley,
which is separated from the Svartdal to the N. by a 'Band\ or tableland
with a series of lakes (p. 147). The path then follows theE. side of the valley.
To the left, farther on, we obtain a superb view of the Thorfinslntl, a basin
formed by the Thorfinstinder; before us rise, the. three Knutshulstindei\ enclo.s-
ing the Knuls/iul, but the highest (7680 ft.) of them is not visible. The
highest part of the route is reached at the S. end of the long 'Tjpern' (tarn ;
4786 ft.), to the left, whence we see the mountains to the N. of Lake Gjende,
particularly the pointed Semmeltind. Beyond a second, and smaller, lake
(4750 ft.) and a glacier descending from the Svartdalspigge, we enter the
Svartdal, and follow the right (E.) bank of the Svartdela; to the left
towers the highest SvartdaUpig (7030 ft.). We then cross to the left bank,
and soon reach the huge precipice descending to Lake Gjende, called
Ojendehrynet, through which the Svartd0]a has worn a deep gorge, the
Svartdalsglvp. We may either follow the latter from varde to varde,
or, better, ascend a ridge covered with loose stones to the left to the
'Svartdalsaaxle (58U6 ft.), which commands a superb survey of the whole
N. side of .Totunheim. Far below lies Lake Gjende (From the Svart-
dalsaaxle we may ascend the highest Svartdalspig without difficulty.)
We now descend to the W., below the Langedalsbrse, at first rapidly over
loose stones (caution necessary), and then over soft grass; then by the
course of the glacier-stream into the Vesle-Aadal, whence we soon reach
the Ojendehod (p. 166). Or, on reaching Lake Gjende, we may shout for
a boat to ferry us across (10 min ).
Voyaging on Lake Bygdln, we next pass the Langedals-Elv,
and then the Oaldehcrgi>iinder (6805 ft.), from which falls the
Galdebergsfos. On the S. side of the lake rises Dryllenesen
(4934 it.'). Hounding the sheer rocks of the Galdeberg, we observe
to the right above us the Gdldebergstind, and facing us the Lange-
i^kavl (or Rustegg') with the Uranaastind (p. 163), an imposing
scene. On the right next opens the valley of the Helstnkkct, which
forms a waterfall. To the S.W. rise the Koldedalstinder (p. 163),
and lastly, to the 8., the Skinegg (p. 161). Looking back, we
observe the three peaks of the Sletmarkpig (p. 166). The lake
owes its milky colour here to the Melkedela, a genuine glacier-
torrent. After a row of 8 hrs. we reach Eidsbugaren (p. 163).
i. From Tyinsholmen or Eidsbugaren to the Gjendebod
on Lake Gjende.
From Eidsbugaren to the OJendehvd, 5-6 hrs., from Tyinsholmen '^ hr.
more. The path is bad but provided with guide-posts (guide, advisable,
2 kr. 40 0., horse 4 kr.).
Tyinsholmen and Eidsbugaren, see pp. 161-163. From Eids-
bugaren we follow the N. bank of Lake Bygdin, cross (10 min) the
166 I{.22. — Map,p.l46. GJENDEBOD. Jotiinheim.
rapid Melkedela (p. 165) l)y a narrow wooden bridge, and skirt the
lake to (1 hr.) the mouth of the Heistakka, We cross this stream
hy a rickety wooden bridge a little higher up, but horses have to
ford it. This point may also be reached hy boat (with one rower,
for 1, 2, 3 persons, 80 e., 1 kr., or 1 kr. 20 0.).
We now ascend rapidly along the left bank of the Heistakka,
which descends from the heights in several fine cascades. In about
1 hr. we reach the long lake o{ Ueistakljernet (ca. 4100 ft.), the E.
side of which we skirt for about 1/4 hr. To the right towers the
Oxdalshe (5555 ft.). AVe pass another small lake and cross (1/2 hr.)
a brook. To the left rises the Grenneherg (4210 ft.), at the foot
of which lies the Grennebergstjern (4110 ft.), traversed by the
Ileristakka. To the right is the huge ^^^efmaWcp/^ (7070 ft.), from
which the SletmarkbrcE descends to the N. into the Vesle Aadal.
The route ascends rapidly, passing to the W. of a small lake, to
(40 min.) the pass between the Gjeilhe (4790 ft.; W.) and the
Rundtom (4870 ft. ; E.), where we obtain a view to the N.E. of the
Semmeltind, with its large glacier, and the Beshe (p. 170).
The descent into the Vesle Aadal follows the course of the
stream, either wholly on the left bank or crossing it twice according
to the state of the path. After a time we enjoy an open view of
Lake Gjende , with the Memurutunge to the left, and then the
Beshe and the Veslefjeld. To the right, over the Vesle Aadal,
tower the Svartdalspigge. About 1 hr. from the head of the pass,
after crossing for the last time to the left bank of the stream, the
path forks. The right branch, descending direct to the lake, is
used if the guide has a boat ready. Otherwise we proceed to the
left, round the E. flank of the Gjendetunge (p. 167), to a bridge
over the brook emerging from the Store Aadal (p. 167), and descend
along its left bank.
Fairly experienced mounfain-climbers should combine the ascent of
the OJendeiunffe (p. 167), bounding the valley on the W., with this route
(a digression of 11/2-2 hrs.). About 20-25 min. after crossing the above-
mentioned plateau we bend to the left and ascend to the N. over the debris
on the steep slope of the Timgepigge, opposite the glacier of the Sletraark-
pig. Another hour, on the U.W. side of the Tungepigge, brings us to the
first summit of the Gjendetunge. falling pvecipitously to Lake Gjende.
The descent leads to the Store Aadal (p. 167).
The Gjendebod (20 beds; good entertainment, B. 70 0., D.
11/2 kr.), a tourists' hut at the entrance to the Store Aadal, lies at
the foot of the precipices of the Memurutunge and close to Lake
Gjende. It affords good headquarters for several excursions. In
the background of the valley rises the snow-clad Skardalseggen.
Guide, Nils K. Storstensrusten. — Boat to the Memurubod with
1 rower for 1, 2, or 3 pers., 2 kr., 2 kr. 40, 3 kr. 20 0., with
2 rowers 3 kr. 60 0., 4 kr. , 4 kr. 80 0. ; to Gjendesheim with
1 rower 3 kr. 20 0., 4 kr., 5 kr. 20 0., with 2 rowers 6 kr. , 6 kr.
80 0., or 8 kr.
*Lake Gjende (3210 ft.), 18 Kil. long, 1-1 1/2 Kil- hroad, and
Jotunheim. LAKE GJENDE. Map, p. 146. —22. R. 167
480 ft. deep at places, extends fromW. to E., ■where the Sjoa, a
tributary of the Laageii, issues from it. On both sides it is enclosed
by abrupt mountains, of which the Beshe (7585 ft.), on the N. or
'Solside', and the Knutshidstind (7680 ft.) and Svartdalsplg
(7030 ft.), on the S. or 'Bagside', are the highest. These peaks are
not seen from the Gjendebod, but become visible as we ascend the
Store Aadal. There are few places on the banks of the lake where
landing or walking for any distance is practicable. The colour of
the water is green, especially when seen from aheiglit. The lake is
fed by several wild glacier-torrents. Storms often make boating
impossible for days together, and the N. wind sometimes divides
in the middle of the lake and blows E. and W. at the same time.
The Ascent of the Memcrutunge takes abdut 4 brs., there and back,
or includin[5 the descent to the Memurubod 6 hrs. at least (guide 2 kr.).
From the Gjendebod we may either make the very steep ascent to the E.
by the liukkelccger or the Begstuelefte (dangerous without a guide), or fol-
low the bridle-path through the Store-Aadal for about l'/2 hr., ascending
the left bank of the stream, and then mount rapidly to the right (prac-
ticable for riding ; see p. 171). The "Memurutunge, a plateau about~5020 ft.
in height, with snow-fields, small lakes, and interesting Alpine flora, forms
a kind of mountain-peninsula, bounded on the W. by the Store Aadal, on
the S. by Lake Gjende, and on the E. and N. by the Memuru-Elv. Farther
N. it is encircled by lofty snow-mountains.
The View embraces, to the S, the Knutshulstind with its deep 'Hul',
the Svartdalsplg, and between them the deep Svartdal ; then the Langedal
and the Slctmarkpig; to the W. rise the pointed Melkedalstinder and
Rauddalstinder, pr<iminent among which is the Skarvdalstind, all near the
Rauddal. To the N.W. lies the Langevand with the Sm0rstabtinder, the
Kirke, and the Tladalstinder. To the!N. the Hinaatjcrnhf*, Memurutinder,
and Tjukningssuen. To the E., the Besh0. — Instead of returning the same
way, it is far more interesting to traverse the Memurutunge to its E. end
(guide) and then make the steep descent to the Memurubod. In this case
a boat must be ordered to meet the traveller there. This detour adds
about 2 hrs. to the excursion.
The view from the (2 hrs.) Gjendetunge (5095 ft.) is one of the finest
in Jotunheim and is superior to that from the Memurutunge in command-
ing a survey of the whole lake. We cross the bridge to the W., follow
the path on the W. bank of the river to the N. for about '/z ^^■■: and
then ascend steeply to the left.
The ascent of the highest Knutshulstind (7680 ft.), from the Gjende-
bod, through the Svartdal (p. 165), takes about 8 hrs. (for experts only).
From the G.iendebod through the Eadddal to Skogadalsb^en,
10-12 hrs. (guide 7 kr.). The route leads up the Slofe Aadal on the
right bank to a C/zhr.) waterfall formed by a brook descending from the
GrisletjaTn. It then ascends rapidly to the left. Farther on it crosses
the brook and leads on the N. side of the Onsletjcern (4590 ft.) and the
following tarns to the RauddaUhoug (3 hrs. from the Gjendebod), where
the Rauddal begins. This grand, but at first unpicturesque, valley, with
its almost unbroken series of lakes, lies to the N. of and parallel with
the Melkedal (p. 173). On reaching the 'Band", or culminating point, we
enjoy superb 'Views in both dircclions : to the right rise the liauddalsUnder
(7410 ft.; first ascended by Hr. Carl Hall in 1890; 7-8 hrs.-, not difficult;
guide indispensable) ; to the left is (he Molkedalstind with its sheer pre-
cipice, and between them peeps the Fanaraak (p. 160) in the distance;
looking back, we observe tlic Uauddalstind on the left, the Sjugulstind
on the right, and l)clwcen them the Slelmarkpig (p. 165) with a great
amphitheatre of glaciers. It takes about I'/z br. to cross the 'Band% from
which a route leads to the W. round the Svartdalsegg to the Langvand
168 K.'J2. — Map,j).146. RAUDDAL. Jotunheim.
and the Store Aadal (a round of 10-12 hrs. from the Gjendebod). We
next cross the Rauddals-Elv by a snow-bridge and traverse toilsome 'Ur'
and patches of snow on the S. side of the valley, skirting a long lake for
the last IV2 lir. (patience very necessary). As we approach the "Kauddals-
mund , the precipice with which the Kauddal terminates towards the
Store Utladal, the scenery again becomes very grand. A view is obtained
of the mountains of the Utladal and Gravdal , including the curiously
shaped Storebj^rn (p. 160), from which the Sjortningsbrw descends. To
the E. we survey the whole of the Eauddal, flanked by the Rauddalstinder
on the N. and the Melkedalstind (p. 174) on the S. The red ('raud')
'gabbro' rock here has given rise to the name of the valley. The route
now descends on the S. side of the grand waterfall of the Rauddals-Elv to
the Store Utladal^ about 21/2 hrs. from Skogadalsb0en, aee p. 152.
The *Row down Lake Gjeiide to Gjendeosen requires 81/2-
41/2 hrs. in fine weather ( fares, p. 166). Soon after starting we obtain
a view to the S. of the Svartdal (p. 165), at the entrance of which
lies the cattle-shed of Vaageboden. To the N. rise the slopes of
the Memurutunge (p. 167). About halfway down the lake, at the
mouth of the Memurudal, from which issues the muddy Memuru-
Elv, crossed by a bridge, are the club-hut of Memurabod and the
inn of Ole O. Sveine. In the background of the valley is the abrupt
ridge of the Tjukningsuen (7916 ft.). Towards the N.E. the Beshe
is conspicuous during the greater part of the trip, and more to the
E. the Veslefjeld descends abruptly to the lake. To the S. of the
lake towers the Knutshulstlnd, with its glacier.
From the Memurubod an interesting and (with guide) comparatively
easy glacier-pass leads to Spilersiulen (11 hrs. ; p. 172). We ascend the
Memurudal to the W. iJemurubrce , (raver.se this to the pass adjoining the
HeiUtuguhe (p. 172), and descend the Heilstuguhrce to the Vi.sdal (p. 172).
At the E. end of the lake, on the N. bank of its effluent the
Sjoa, lie the club-hut and hotel of Gjendesheim (see p. 169).
k. From Vinstra in the Gudbrandsdal to Gjendesheim.
Two Days. A rough road (though preferable to the route through the
Sjuadal described at p. 64), with fast skyds-stations, leads to the (28 Kil.)
Eampe-Saier, a drive of about 5 hrs. A prolongation of this road is now
in progress, and will be opened as far as the Aakre-Sceter (H'/e Kil.) in
the summer of 1903, and thence to the SikkiUdals-Sceter (ca. 6 Kil.) in
1904. — From the Kampe-SiBter we walk in 7'/2 hrs. to the Sikkilsdals-
SsBter and on in 4'/2hrs., partly by boat, to Gjendesheim.
Vinstra, see p. 64. — The road diverges to the left ('til
Kvikne') from that to the Gudbrandsdal, crosses the railway and
the Laagfcn, and ascends pastFuruheim (p. 64) and through wood.
The way to the Faefor Sanatorium (p. 64) diverges to the left.
After 25 min. the large gaard of Lo lies to our right, while the
deep wooded gorge of the Vinsira yawns to our left. We then
ascend steeply along the ravine. In 25 min. more a path to the
right leads to the Kongsli Sanatorium (p. 64), of which we have a
retrospect farther on. To the left the Gaalna throws itself from
the heights on the Farforkampen, on the opposite slope of the valley.
We pass several gaards.
10 Kil. Vistad, near the church of Kvikne and the large gaard
Jotunheim. GJENDESHEIM. Map,p.l46. — 22.R. 169
of Harilstad, between which our road ascends. After 20 min. the
road enters a ravine to the right and crosses a brook, after which it
ascends to the left for 1 hr. at an unusually severe gradient. The
drivers make a long halt at the top of the incline, at the gaard of
Grmipe. To the right is the lofty Hedalsmuen.
The undulating road crosses the Ommundsaa and the Skaabyggja
(saw-mill) and passes several gaards. Soon after the lake of Olstap-
ptn becomes visible to the left we reach the —
18 Kil. Kampe-Saeter, with a fair inn (R. 80, B. or S. 70 e.),
frequented by summer-visitors. This is (at present) the last fast
skyds-station, where we obtain guides and horses for the rest of
the journey (to the Sikkilsdals-Sc-eter 81/0 kr.); new road, see p. 168.
Passing the sseter of Rovelien, we ascend in '/o hr. to the top of
the ridge, where we have our last view of the Kampe-Saeter. We
then traverse a hilly plateau. The Skalfjeld lies to the left. The
Jotunheim now oomes into sight, with the Valders mountains to
the left and those of Lom (p. 66) to the right. We descend, in part
through wood. After 21/2 hrs. from the Kampe-Sffiter we cross the
Murua by a large wooden causeway, and in 8/4 hr. we cross another
stream of the same name. From this point a decent sseter-path
ascends gently to ( II/2 tr.) the —
Aakre-Sceler (3130" ft. ; modest rfmts.), situated at the W. base
of the Aakrekampen (4630 ft.), some distance from the Aakrevand.
— We continue to ascend, reaching the top in 1 hr. and coming
into view of the Sikkilsdalsvand. In 1 hr. more we reach the —
Sikkilsdals-Sseter, where we obtain fair accommodation and
guides for Gjendesheim (^'/a-S kr., including baggage) at the new
'Prinsestue', so named after the visit of the sons of the Crown Prince
of Sweden in 1901.
From the szeter we take 10 min. to reach the first Sikkilsdals-
vand, where boats are in waiting to take us across (Y2 ^^■)- To the
right towers the abrupt Sikkilsdalshorn, to the left are the Gaapaa-
pigger, while the snow-clad Beshe (p. 170) is visible in the dis-
tance. We walk across the isthmus to the Store Sikkilsdalsvand, and
row across this in ^/^ hr.
The route now ascends, partly over marsh and brooks, to (20 min.)
the top of the next ridge, where we obtain a fine view of the Sjodal,
with the Nautgarstind, the Glittertind, and other Jotunheim moun-
tains beyond it. To the right diverges a path to the Bes-Saeter
(p. 170). The Gjendesheim path skirts the slope to the left, crosses
a broad stream by stepping-stones, and descends to the bridge at
Maurvanyen, which was built by the Turist-Forening and crosses the
foaming rapids of the green Sjoa, the discharge of Lake Gjende. A
walk of 1/2 hr. more along the left bank brings us to our destination.
The comfortable club-hut of Gjendesheim (kept by Kari Rusncps ;
B. or S. 80 0., D. 1 kr. 60 0.), situated at the E. end of Lake Gjende
170 11.22. — Map, p. 146. RESII0. Jotitnheim.
(pp. 106, 1G7), is one of the most frequented points in Jotnnheim
and affords good headquarters for many attractive excursions. Guide,
Sivert Th. Beie.
The ascent of the Besegg (there and hack) takes 7-8 hrs. (guide
3 kr.). A good bridle-path leads to the N. in 1 hr. to the Bessa, on
the N. bank of which lies the Bes-Sceter (see below). The route to
the Veslefjeld follows the S. bank. Guided by varder, we ascend to
the Besvand (4525 ft.), where the huge Beshe becomes conspicuous
Ascending to the left, in lV2"'^t''s. more we reach the summit of
the barren and stony Veslefjeld (5675 ft.). The view embraces the
whole of the dark-green Lake Gjende, with the Koldedalstinder
and Stelsnaastlnder to the S.W., and the enormous Beshc in the
foreground. — We may now follow, towards the W., the narrowing
crest of the Veslefjeld, separating the Besvand from Lake Gjende,
which lies 1200 ft. lower, and terminating in the *Besegg, a curious
ridge or arete, descending precipitously to Lake Gjende.
Travellers with steady liciids may descend to the JSid separating the
two lakes, and not rising much above the Besvand. It is also possilVic to
descend to the Memurnbod by skirting the base of the Besh0 (guide from
Gjendesheim 4 kr.). It is safer, however, to return to the Bes-Seeter, or
to descend direct to Gjendesheim.
The ascent of the *Besh«r (7585 ft. ; 8-9 hrs., there and back;
guidi' 4 kr.) coincides with that of the Veslefjeld as far as the Bes-
vfind; we then row across the lake and ascend by the Beshebrce.
If the boat is not in good condition, we follow the slope on tlie N.
bank as far as the glacier. The view from the summit embraces the
whole of Jotunheim. Far below lie the Memurutunge, the Bes-
vand, Lake Gjende, and the Rusvand. The slope towards the last
is precipitous.
From the Bes-Sceter (see above; Tourist-Hotel Besheim), above
the Upper Sjodalsvand (3255 ft. ), we may proceed either by boat
(2V2 kr.) or on foot along the W. bank to (1 Y2 hr.) the Besstrands-
Sceter, and go thence by a carriage-road, passing the Ntdre Sjodcils-
vand (3240 ft.), traversing a spur of the Besstrands Rundhe
(4910 ft.), and crossing the Russa-ELv, to (IV2 lir.) the —
Ruslien-ScEter (3125 ft.; good quarters), where the rough road
from Sjoa ends (p. 65).
Ascent of the Nadtgarstind fkom the Rdslien-SjEter (3-4 hrs.).
We ascend a cattle-track ('Koraak') to the Hindjly, turn to the left to the
Sendre Tvei'cia, and round the Russe Rundhe (6233 ft.), traversing 'Ur'.
Fine view of the Tjukningssuen (see below). We now come in sight of
the snowless summit of the *Nautgarstind (7615 ft.), to which we have
still a steep ascent of fully 1000 ft. on the N.E. side. On the W. side_ the
Tind ends in a vast 'Botn' or basin, 1000 ft. in depth. Magnificent view.
From the RusLiEN-S.aiTEH to the Memurubod (p. 1C8), 9 hrs., rather
fatiguing. We at first follow the left bank of the Russa-Elv, wade through
the Sendve and Noi-dre Tveraa, and reach the (3 hrs.) Busvasbod, at the E.
end of the Kusvand (4085 ft.). Skirting the lake, we cross several torrents
descending from the N. To the S. are the precipices of the huge Besh0.
At the (3 hrs.) W. end of the lake we ascend the Eusglop, between the Glop-
tind on the E. and TJuktiingssuen (7910 ft.) on the W., and then descend
Jotunhcim. II0GVAGEL. Map, p. 146. —22. R. 171
past the Ilest/Jcern, lying to the right. After billowing the height to the S.
a little farther, we descend abruptly to the Memurubod.
From G.iendesheim to the Gjendebod (p. 166) an interesting route (to
which the difficulty of crossing the Leirungs-Elv is a serious drawback)
leads through the 0vre Leirungsdal, between the Leirungshrw and Knuts-
kiilsHnd, to the Svartdal (p. 165), and thence past the Svartdalsaaxle,
Guide necessary (6 kr.).
From Gjendeshkim to Lake Btgdin (6-8 hrs., not very attractive;
guide 5'/i! kr.). Passing the Leirungsvand, we ascend the course of a brook
to the S. to the Brurskarsknatte, avoiding the extensive marshes of the
Leirungs-Elv. Around the Leirungsdal rise the Kalvaahegda. Knutshuls-
tind (p. 167), KjcrmhuUtind (7655 ft.), and Hegdehroltet. After crossing
the marshy plateau of Valdersjiiien ('l6Cit) ft.), we descend to the Stremvnnd,
cross the Vinstra by a bridge, skirt a spur of the BUihorn, which has been
visible from the Valdersily onwards, and reach the Hotel Jottmheim (p. It 4).
In the reverse direction it is best to row from the Hotel Jotunheim to
the Sund-Swlef at the N.E. end of Lake Bygdin, and to ascend the bank
of the Breilaupa (p. 164) towards the N.E. to Valdersflyen.
1. From the Gjendebod to R^jshjem.
On the first day we walk in 8-10 hrs. to Sjrito-sluleii ; on the second
to liejshjem, either direct (5 hrs.) or via the Galdhefpig (see p. 158). —
The path from the Gjendebod to Spiterstulen is well marked by 'varder';
guide (4 kr.) rot indispensable. Horse as far as the sleep ascent to the
Uladalsband 2 kr. 00 0., saving fatigue.
We ascend the left bank of the Store-Aadal and pass through
the defile of heistulen, between the Memunitunge and the Gjeiide-
tnnge. To the right, the Glaamsdalsfns. Splendid view of the Sem-
nieltind to the N. (p. 172). In 1 hr. we reach the Vardesten, a
large rock; 1/2 hr. beyond it the bridle-path to the Memurutunge
diverges to the right (p. 167). We next observe, to the left of the
Semmeltind, the Hellerfos (see below), and to the left, above it,
the imposing JJladulstinder (7605 ft.; easy ascent, splendid view).
Walkers will find the passage of the Semmelaa, which descends
from the Semmelhul glacier, unpleasant after rain. (The Semmel-
hul is also crossed by a route into the Visdal, no loss unpleasant,
hut much grander.) Our path now ascends rapidly on the E. (right)
side of the wild Hellerfos, the discharge of the Hellertjcern, and
reaches the top of the hill in 1/2 hr. (2 hrs. from the Gjendebod).
Behind us is a superb view of the Sletmarkpig and Svartdalspig.
We traverse a weird wilderness, strewn with glacier-boulders,
skirt the Hellertjcern (4300 ft.) in a N.W. direction, and then turn
to the right into tlie insignificant valley which leads to the N., and
afterwards more to the E., to the Uladalsband. The steeper ascent
soon begins(2i,2hrs. from the Gjendebod), and riders mustdismount.
From the HEi.r.ERTj.aatN to the Leirdai, and K^.ishjem, 3-4 hrs. longer
than our present route, but much less toilsome (guide, not indispensable,
to Ytterdals-Sa;tcr 5 kr. 70 0,; horse to li^jshjem 8-10 kr.). From the
HellertJRrn we follow the main track, reach the Langevand or Langvntn
(4630 ft.), and skirl its >?. bank (IV? hr.). On the right rise the riadals-
tinder; to the S., f^kardalseggen {12ibi\.). At the W. end of the lake we
ascend past the two Jhtgi-agvUjccrne to the H0gvagel ('Vagge', a Lapp
word, signifying 'mountain-valley'; 5430 ft.), the highest point of the route,
172 K.'Jl\ — Map,p.ld6. VISDAL. Jotunheim.
which commands a grand view of the Horunger to (he S.W. The path
then descends to the Leirvand (p. 153).
A steep ascent of V2^^- Tarings "s to the first of the four Southern
Uladal Lakes (about 5180 ft.). This and the second lie to our left,
the third to our right, and the fourth to our left. The route, here
extremely toilsome, keeps to the right helow the slopes of the
Semmeltind (7480 ft. ; easily ascended from the N. side; 'Semmel',
a female reindeer). After another hour it reaches the TJladalsband
(5760 ft."), its highest point, where it joins the route across the
Semmel Glacier. We now descend to the two Northern TJladal Lakes
(5170 ft.). To the right rises the Heilstuguhg (7\)10 ft. ; p. 168).
Following the E. bank of this lake over most trying 'Ur', we at
length reach (2 hrs., or from the Gjendebod 6 hrs.) Vladalsmunden,
the junction of the Uladal with the Visdal (red finger-post).
Splendid view up and down the latter valley. To the left towers
the Kirke. Route to the Leirvand, see p. 153.
The route down the Visdal (to Spiterstulen 1V2-2 hrs. more)
follows the right (E.) bank of the Visa , at first traversing soft
turf, a pleasant contrast to the 'Ur'. To the right towers the Styggehe
(7310 ft.). After 1 hr. we reach the Heilstuguaa, descending from
the HeilstuguhrcE (bridge somewhat liigher up). Shortly before
reaching (1 hr.) Spiterstulen, we observe to the left, through the
Bukkehul, the Sveilnaasbraj and the Styggebrae (p. 158), two glaciers
with magnificent ice-falls, especially the latter.
Spiterstulen (about 3710 ft.), the highest saeter in the Visdal,
commanded by the Skauthe (6675 ft.) on the E., affords plain
quarters for 20 persons and good food at moderate charges in the
house of the guide, Eilev Halvorsen Ofigsbe.
With a guide (generally obtainable at Spiterstulen) we may ascend
the Leirhe (78S5 ft.), the HeihtiKjvhe (see above), and one of the Meniuru-
tinder (7965 ft.).
Instead of taking the direct route to E/sjshjem, it is much preferable
to ascend the Galdhjapig (p. 158) from Spiterstulen (4'/2 hrs. ; guide 4 kr.
for 1 pers., each addit. pers. IV2 kr.). The route, so long as it remains on
the rocks, is good, and even on the glaciers offers few difficulties to
Alpine climbers. It crosses the Visa by a bridge '/z hr. to the S. of
Spiterstulen (guide-post indicating the way to the Juvvashytte, see below),
ascends on the N. side of the Sveilnaasbrce, and traverses the three peaks
of the Sveilnaasi. Splendid retrospects of the Visdal mountains.
From Spiterstulen to Rejshjem about 5 hrs. more (guide not
indispensable). We soon reach the linfiit of birches (about
3600 ft.) and (1/2 hr.) a rocky barrier through which the Visa has
forced a passage. In another '/2 ^^- '^^ come to a wood, with
picturesque firs ('Furuer'), most of them quite bare on the N. side.
(The limit of firs is here about 3280 ft. above the sea- level.)
Above us, to the left, is an offshoot of the Styggebrae. We cross
(1/4 hr.) the Skauta-Elv, which forms a waterfall above, by a
curious bridge. To the S. we perceive the Uladalstinder (p. 171)
and the Stygghehe (see above). Farther on is a guide-post pointing
Jotunheim. MELKEDAL. Mnp,p.l46. - 2'2.R. 173
to Glitierhebn in the Glitradal (E.) and to the Juvvashytte (W. ;
p. 167).
The tourist-hut of Qlitlerheim, opened In 1902 and kept by the guide
Kniid Slorstensnisien, is the starting-point lor the ascent of the Glittertind
(83J>5 ft.; 8-10 hrs., there and back; guide and ice-axe necessary).
We cross the Glitra, opposite the mouth of which we see the
Nedre Sulheims-Scrter (3190 ft.), ou the left bank of the Visa. The
Rejshjem route continues to follow the E. bank of the Visa. We
cross the Grjola, the Smiugjela, and the Gokra. The Visa is lost
to view in its deep channel, but we follow the margin of its ravine.
A path ascending to the right for a few hundred paces leads to
the finely situated Visdals-Satre (_2960 ft.; quarters for the night
obtainable, best at the 0vreb0-S(eter).
The Gokraskard, a fine point of view, may be ascended hence: it
conunands the Uladalstinder to the S., the Galdh0pig to the S.W., and
the Hestbrffipigge to the W. — A still finer point is the Lauvha (6710 ft.),
whence the Glittertind is also visible.
From the Visdals-Stetre we may also ascend the Ookkerdal, between
the Lauvh0 on the N. and the Gokkeraxel on the S., to the pass oi Finhals
(3885 ft.). Following the PinshaU-Elv thence and crossing the Smaadals-
Elv in the Smaadal, we may turn to the right to the Smaadals - Sxtar
(3905 ft.), from which the huge Kvitinyskjelm (6975 ft.) to the K. may
be ascended, and next reach the Siiierlid-Scefei' and the Ifaaver-Sceter on
Lake Thesseii. Thence across the lake and past the Oxefos to Storvik
(p. G6; 1-11/2 day).
Below the Visdal Steters begins the magnificent descent to
Rejshjem, skirting the profound Ravine of the Visa. The Lauva
descends from the right. The sseter-path, which has now become
a road, descends very rapidly, and in about 1 1/2 lir. reaches the
first houses, where we cross the curious bridge to the left.
Reijshjem, see p. 157.
m. From Tyinsholmen or Eidsbugaren through the Melkedal
and over the Eeiser to Turtegrjff.
This is a magnificent but fatiguing route of two days (way marked by
'varder'; guide not indispensable for adepts). 1st Day: To Skogadalsbeeti
10 hrs. (guide 6 kr.). 2nd Day: To Tuitejre 61/2 hr.s.' — As the guides of
Kidsbugaren, Vetti, etc., are seldom well acnuaintcd with the Horuiujer,
the traveller who intends to explore these mountains should dismiss his
guide at the Ilelgedals-Sajter.
To the mouth of the turbid Melkedeld, and across that river, see
p. 165. — Quitting the lake, we gradually ascend the *Melkedal.
After 3^4 hr. the valley divides. The branch to the left ascends to
the Langeskavl and the Uranaastind (p. 163); that to the right is
still called the Melkedal. Steep ascent through the latter, passing
several waterfalls. As is so often the case in Norway, the valley
has no level floor, but consists of a chaos of heights and hollows.
The rocks are polished smooth by glacier-friction or covered with
loose boulders. Vegetation ceases entirely. About 20 min. above
the bifurcation of the valley we ascend a steep snow-slope to the
plateau of MeUcehuUerne, with several ponds.
174 R.'22. — Map,p.l46. SKOGADAL. Jotunheim.
In 20 mill, more (about 1 V2 lir. from Eidsbugaven) we reach tlie
**Store Melkedalsvand (4382 ft.), in a strikingly grand situation,
the finest point on the route, and worthy of a visit for its own sake
from Tyinsholuieu or Eidsbugaren (best time in the forenoon,
5-6 hrs. there and back). Even in July miniature icebergs (of
'aarsgammel Is', year-old ice, i.e. winter-ice) are seen floating In
the lake (fresh ice being called 'natgammel Is', night-ice). To the
W. rises the Langeskavl ; then the Urauaastind; on this side of
the latter is the Hadberg; next, the Melkedalsbr;e, descending to
the N.W. end of the lake, and the Melkedalstinder, all reflected
in the dark-blue water.
A walk of another liour over 'Ur' and snow brings us to an
ice-pond at the foot of the First Melkedalstind, whence we ascend
a steep slope of snow in 20 min. more to the Melkedalsband , the
watershed ('Vandskjelet'). Farther on appears the Second Melke-
dalslind (7110 ft. ; ascended either from the Rauddal or the Melke-
dal), and to the N.W. the Rauddalstiud (p. 167). The route skirts
the three Melkedalstjerne, through which flows the Skogadela. The
stream has to be forded between the second and third. Rough
walking. A view of the Horunger is now disclosed (p. 155). The
strlation of the rocks by glacier-action ('Skurings-Striber')is fre-
quently seen. The torrent is again crossed by a snow-bridge (cau-
tion necessary), or we may wade through it knee-deep a little lower
down. The Melkedal now ends in a barrier of rock ('Bjelte', girdle),
over which the river falls about 590 ft. To this point also descends
from the left the W. arm of the Melkedalsbrjc, by which the
descent from the Urauaastind may be made (see above).
The lower region of the valley which we now enter is the
Skogadal, abroad basin. Above it tower the Skagastelstinder and
the Styggedalstind. The Maradalsbrce descending from the Skaga-
stelstinder is very striking. The Skogadal is at first a little
monotonous, but the vegetation improves, and the scanty 'llab'
or scrub is soon replaced by fine birches (whence the name, 'forest
valley'). A walk of 2 hrs. from the 'Bslte', without defined path,
brings us to the tourist-hut of —
Skogadalsb^en (see p. 152), reached from Eidsbugaren in
about 10 hrs.
About 1/2 lir. beyond Skogadalsbeen the Gravdal route leads to
the right (p. 152). We turn to the left and cross the Utki by a bridge
(2788 ft.). Beyond it the path to the right leads to the ('/a lir-)
Guridals-Sajtre , while we follow the good saeter-track to the W.,
on the N. bank of the Ojertvas-Elv or Slyggedals-Elv , which
descends from the Gjertvasbrae and the Keiser. On the S. bank
is the deserted saeter of Gjerlvasbeen, whence a path leads to (1 hr.)
the Vormelid-Saeter (p. 151). The retrospect becomes grander and
more open as we advance: to the left is the Smmstabbrae; at the
end of the Store Utladal is the Kirke ; more to the right are the
Jotunheim. KEISEREN PASS. M<ip,p.ld6. —22.R. 175
Rauddalstincler; in front of us is the Skogadalsnaasi ; farther to
the right are the Melkedalstind, the Uranaastind, and, to the ex-
treme right, the Falketind. After ■V4 ^^- t^^ stream forms a small
waterfall. To the left, at the base of the E. Styggedalstind, now
usually called the Gjertvastind (71 10 ft.\ extends the large Gjert-
vasbrct, opposite which we pass ^!2~^li ^^- later.
A granil route, only about 1 hr. longer, taken for the first time by
Jlr. AVm. C. Slingsby in 1876, and not difficult for good walkers, leads
past the N. side of the Gjerti-ashra; to a low pass, and descends to the
Styi/gedaUhrw and thence to the Helgedals-Sjeter (see below). — Ascent of
the Ojertvaslind, see p. 152.
The path, now good, next leads to the (20 min.) Gjertvand, passes
to the left of this lake, and ascends steeply, over debris and snow,
to the 'Skar', and then, between the Styggedalsnaasi on the left and
the Uvasnaasi on the right, to the (8/4 hr.) Keiseren Pass (4920 ft.;
Lapp 'Kaisa', mountain), on which lie the Ilvcmd and the snows of
the Storfond. To the S.E., above the snow of the Styggedalstind,
rises the Koldedalstind , to the N. the Fanaraak, to the W. the
huge Jostedalsbrffi rising above the mountains on the Lysterfjord.
The path now leads along the top of the hill, passing the pond
oi Skauta. The Horiinger, especially the mountains round the
Styggedalsbotn , become conspicuous to the left. After ^j^ hr.
we cross the Helgedals-ELv , which flows towards the W., some-
times scarcely fordable, and in 1/4 ^r. more reach a bare rocky
height commanding the *Styggedalshotn (p. 16")), a huge basin of
snow and ice. After 1/2 hr. we see in the 'Botii' to the left the
outflow of the Styggedal Glacier, and to the right the Steindals-ELv
coming from the Fanaraak. In front of ns, about 660 ft. below, ex-
tends the broad Helgedal, to which the path now rapidly descends.
In 20 min. we pass, on the left, the fine Skautefos, formed by
the contluenoe of the Helgedals-Elv and the Styggedals-Elv. The
path then crosses the Ste'mdals-Elv, usnally not difficult, and leads
through the wide valley, past the Helgednls-Sater, to —
Turleyre (p. 155), 61 2 ^'''s- from Skogadalsbcen.
23. From Bergen to Aalesund and Molde by Sea.
42 S.M. (16S Kngl. M.) to AaUiund, 51 S.M. (204 Engl. M.) to Molde.
These are the distances as officially reckoned, l)Ut they are greatly increased
by the sinuosities of the bays and straits through which the steamers
thread their course. The distances given in this route in Norwegian
nautical or sea-miles are those from station to station.
Steamers ply almost dailv to Aalesund in 15-18 hrs. (fares 16 kr. 80,
10 kr. .00 0.), to Molde in 19-22 hrs. (fares 20 kr. 40, 12 kr. 75 0.). Some
of Ihe steamers touch at.4a/esM«donly, going thence direct to Christianssund
and Trondhjem; others caM a,t Aalesund and aUo At Molde; others again at
Floi-g, Molde, Aalesund, and Molde; and only a few touch at the minor
intermediate stations.
Bergen, see p. 115. To the mouth of the Sognefjord, see p. 131.
The PoUetind (1740 ft. ) here rises on the island of Indrc Sulen.
176 R. 23. — Map, p. 178. FLORjRf. From Bergen
To the N. of the Sognefjord the steamer skirts the district of
Sendfjord, which with that of Nordfjord (p. 182) formed the an-
cient Firdafylke. The steamer steers between the islands of Ytre
and Indre Sulen. The scenery increases in interest, and the moun-
tain-forms show more variety. Farther on we pass the Dalsfjord
(p. 178). To the W. lie the Vare and the lofty island of Alden
(1550 ft.), known as the ^Norske Hest\ which pastures upwards of
1000 sheep. The vessel next usually passes to the W. of the high
Atlee (2283 ft.), and steers across the Stang fjord, passing the
promontory of Stavnces and the Stavfjord, the entrance to the F«rr-
defjord (p. 179). The lighthouse of Stnbhensfyr stands on a solitary
cliff to the W.
20 S.M. Flor0 (Olsens Hotel; Lloyd's agent, Mr. E. Olsen) is
a station of some importance, being touched at by most of the
steamers. The little town (GBOinhab.) is the commercial centre of
the Norddals, Eike, and Hedals fjords.
A local steamer usually plies once weekly from Flor0 up the small
Eikefjofd to the station of that name, whence we may ascend towards
the N. to the great glacier-region of the Kjeipen (4460 ft.-, recently ex-
plored by Mr. Wm. C. Slingsby), the snowy heights of which are visible
from the fjord.
The steamer plying from Bergen to the Nordfjord (p. 182) also steers
from Flor0 to Mold0 by a route similar to that described below, but calls
at more stations. It makes connection with steamers plying on the Oulen-
fjord, whicli opens to the S.E. of Bremanger. From Kjel&enws, on this
fjord, wc may row to Rise (quarters) and walk thence by a wild path to
the N.W. of the Kjeipen (see above) to the Aalfotfjord (p. 183).
We steer to the N. To the left lie the islands of Skorpe and
Aralden; then the Fr0i-0, on which lies Kalvaag or Kallevaag, a
station of the Nordfjord steamers (p. 182). "With the passage of
the Freipord, as the strait between the mainland and the large
island of Bremanger is called, begins one of the finest parts of the
voyage. On Bremanger is Berdle or Berle, another station of the
Nordfjord steamers. To the right some relief in the grey moss-
grown rocks is afforded by a few high but slender waterfalls. To the
left, at the N.E. angle of Bremanger, towers the huge Hornelen
(2940 ft.), with its almost sheer cliff, ascended on the seaward side
by K. Bing in 1897. This is the Smalsorhorn of the Saga, said to
have been visited by King Olaf Tryggvason about the year 1000.
The Skatestrem, a strait to the N. of Hornelen, between Bremanger
and the Rugsunde, is noted for the rapidity of the tide ebbing and
flowing through it. The steamer crosses the mouth of the Nordfjord,
affording a fine mountain-view, and (3hrs. from Flore) reaches —
7 S.M. Mold« (Inn of H. Friis), a small island between the
mainland and the Vaagse, the latter with hills attaining a height
of 2300 ft. ScEternaa (Sunde's Inn), on this island, is called at by
the local steamers.
We next steer to the N. through the Vlvesund, a strait between
the Vaags0 and the mainland, and then across the bay of Sildegabet
to Mol'le. AAHJliM. 'J3. Route. 177
(■herring's iiiotitli' ) and past the islands ol Biiniw and Seljee.
(Ill the latter are the ruins of a Benedictine monastery and of
the shrine of the Irish St. Sunniva, the tutelary saint of Bergen.
In former days sailing vessels had often to lie here for several weeks,
awaiting a favourable wind for the circumnavigation of Stadtland.
The peninsula of Stadtland, round which we next steer, is a
hilly plateau 28 Kil. long and 4-13 Kil. broad, stretching far into
the sea like the back of a huge right hand with a long wrist. The
highest point is the Skraati^a, rising above Dnjgc, at the end of the
'wrist'. More conspicuous, however, is the Kjarrlng (1683 ft.),
near the tip of the middle finger. The N. promontory is called
Staalet. On the N.E. side rises the iJei/'Ai/iorn ( 1410 ft.). Stadt-
land is noted for the storms to which it is exposed. Even in
summer the sea here is often very rough.
On the Stadtland, opposite theSeljea, near the church and parsonage
of Hove, lies Selje, a station of the Bergen and Xordfjord steamer, whence
we may row up the little Moldefjord in I hr. to the gaard Eide. A
rather steep bridle-path leads thence in 3/) hr. (pay for 7 Kil.) over the
Mandteid (about 500 ft.) to E/ierliowjen on the Kjadepolkn. Then by boat
in 1 hr. t.) (4 Kil.) — '
Aahjem (good quarters at Ravn's, the Landhandler), situated near (he
church and parsonage of Vanelven, at the S.W. end of the Vanelvs/Jord.
Steamboat to Aalesund, by Volden, once weekly (p. 204). Carriage-road
to Brygsen on the Xordfjord, see p. 183.
The bay to the N.E. of Stadtland is called Vanelvsgahel, ad-
joining which on the S.E. is the Yanelvsfjord (see above). The
steamer passes the Sanda , in which is the Dolsten?hul , a cavern
about 200 ft. above the sea-level, and the large islands Gurske
and Hareidlund, and sometimes calls at Hereen, to the N. of the
Gurske, at Volden (p. 203), and at 0rsteni-ik (p. 203). To the right
lies the large island of Sule. To the X. appears the Gode, with a
lighthouse; then (r.) the island of Hessen, with the pointed
Sukkertrp; and farther to the N. the Valdere, with a lighthouse,
where there is a cave (Sjong-Hull), 120 ft. high, on the S.W. side.
Pa-sing the Sterwaag. the bare rocks of which are used for drying
fish ('Klipfisk', p. 245). we reach, in about 5 hrs. from Molde. —
15 S.M. Aalesund, see p. 202.
The voyage from .\alisund to Molde (saloon-fare 3 kr. 90 0.) is
very fine, especially by evening-light. Beyond Aalesund wc liave
a grand* View of the Sand mere mountains (pp. 197-200) to the right,
the fissured Jenshorn and the snow-fields of the Kolaastinder long
remaining in sight. Farther on we pass the Lepse, with the lien-
stadhul, on the left. To the right is the lighthouse of Gunaviken.
A view of the Skaala (p. 187) and other mountains to the N. of the
Romsdal is now disclosed. Finally we enjoy a panorama of the whole
Romsdalsfjord. From Aalesund to Molde the large steamers take
SVz"^ hrs., the local steamers (with their many stops) much longer.
9 S.M. Molde, see p. 204. — Thence to Christianssund and
Trondhjem. see p. 214.
Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. Sth Edit. 1'2
178
24. From the Sognefjord to the Nordfjord.
FiioM Vadheim to Sandene, 123 Kil., a two days' journey by 'skytla'.
Caleschvogn with two horses for 2 pers. 61 kr. 50 0., for 3 I'cre. 67 kr.
40 0., for 4 pers. 73 kr. SO 0.; from Vadheim to Nedre Vastjnden 32 kr.,
35 kr. 20, 38 kr. 40 0. ; from Nedre Vasenden to Skei 9 kr. 50, 10 kr. 50,
11 kr. 50 0. (also steamboat, see p. 180); from Skei to Sandene 20, 22. 24 kr.
The traffic on this route (the 'Overlandsvei') is very great, as the huge
■lostedalsbrse (p. 130) prevents any other road between the Sognefjord and
the Nordfjord. The fir.st portion of the route is the least attractive, so
that many travellers use the S^ndfjord steamer from Bergen to Ferde,
while some prefer to drive the whole way to the Nordfjord.
The attentiiiu of walkers and riders may, however, be directed to the
route from SUjolden over the Sognefjeld to Rejshjem (pp. 153, 157) and
thence via Grotlid to Stryn (R. 9). The passage from the Jostedal to the val-
leys of the Nordtjord is attended by many inconveniences.
Vadheim (by steamer from Bergen in 7-10 hrs., from Laerdals-
eren in 91/2-IO hrs., from Balholm in 3-4 hrs.j, see p. 132. Con-
veyances usually await the arrival of the steamer.
The undulating road grailually ascends the Vadheimsdal, the
westernmost of the two valleys which open here, enclosed by rocks
1500-2000 ft. in height. The first gaard is Ytre Dale, on the left,
where in winter the sun is visible for a very short time only. The
road crosses the river and ascends between the Dregebenip on the
left and the Fagersletnip (2995 ft.) on the right. On a rocky height
to the left lie the gaards of Dregebe, beyond which the road recrosses
the river. It then skirts the Lower Yxlandsvand, and again crosses
the river before reaching the dark Upper Yxlandsvand (430 ft.). New
road in progress. The watershed is crossed near the gaards of Aare-
berge (535 ft.), lying in a basin to the right, on a small lake. To
the N. rises the imposing Kvamshest (p. 179). Passing the gaard
of Lofald on the right, we cross the Quia or Holmedals-Elv , and
reach —
loKil, S&nde (*Sivertsen's Hotel, R. U/i-2, B. orS. IV2, D. 2V4,
pens. 5 kr. ; landlord speaks English), prettily situated in the Indre
Holmedal, with a church and several gaards. To the S. rise the
Hegehei (2850 ft.), and (more distant) Dregebenip, to the W. the
StenscBtfjeld (2470 ft.), and to the N.W. the lofty Kvandalsfjeld
(3325 ft.).
From Sande a good road leads tn the W., down the left bank of the
Holmedals-Elv, to (14 Kil.) the slow station of Eidevik, near the church
of Begstad and the gaard of Sveen (good quarters) on the Salsfjord, at
which a steamer calls twice weekly (121/2-13 hrs. from Bergen). The finest
point on the Dalsfjord is Dale, on the S. bank, where the Dalthest (2333ft.),
the dome-shaped Kringlen (2435 ft.), and other mountains present a grand
picture. — From Sveen to Langeland (p. 179), 11 Kil,
From Sande a road leads to the E., up the valley of the Holmedals-Elv,
to (7 Kil.) the slow station of Horsevik on the pretty Viksvand (525 ft.),
which is worthy of a visit. On an island near the N. bank is the church
of Hcestad. From Horsevik to Vik, at the N.E. end of the lake, 14 Kil.
(by boat). Near Vik we pass the mouth of the Eldal (p. 134) on the
right. — From Vik a road leads through the Haukedal to (7 Kil.) Mostad-
haug on the Haukedalsvand, whence we row to B^rvik (p. 18'J).
t ireo^ayjL An*T ■
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InJaetoit B-oltstaa^ JtM*897
Srimdalen,' nykprne
ro..eT. Latsonpm - „
i?uiuUiaU„ ^ Stort W
' .J=i..f/.^- ^aO^caeS . ,°
"^-■-.'i VJSeOerA- i Osen° TatUate
I B R ,,/^t' 'Mdal s^. ,SW?7-rfaZ
?e4^.
Sal^hut aelde y Stranisruis ^ Ziotel
L \» u - "'^ rteTWoli'is Boo
sdal
BUia
OstFj.
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roA
tank /^ . \-i
.nil" ■'^-''""' ■ =.v,>i7>. ^ I-,"
:f^
« — ? Ihigl Mllefi
r0UDE. '24. Route. 179
The traveller should secure a vehicle at Sandc to take him to F£(rdo,
as he might otherwise be kept waiting a long time at Langeland.
Beyond Sande the road lias recently been much improved. It
ascends rapidly to the right to the gaard of Tunvald at the base
of the Tunvaldfjeld. Fine retrospect. A view is soon disclosed of
the mountains of the Dalsfjord (in Scndfjord) ; in the distance, the
Lekelandshest (2625 ft.) ; nearer, the Kvamshest or Store Hest
(4005 ft.), which, farther on, resembles a huge horse's head ; and
the wooded basin of Lundebygden at our feet. We next reach the
gaards of Skilbred, on the peaty Skilbredsvand, whence we have an
unimpeded view of the Kvamshest and the Lille Hest [2985 ft.) to
the N.E, of it, with snow between. In clear weather these mountains
are reflected in the lake. We then pass several pleasant gaards.
11 Kil. (pay for 14 in this direction) Langeland (unpretending
accommodation) lies high above the S. end of the Langelandsvand
(21/2 Kil- long), where the road to Sveen (p. 178) and the old road
to Ferde (on the hilly W. bank) diverge to the left. The new road
to Farde follows the E. bank of the lake and descends in windings
into the valley of Ferde and to the Fardetjord. Walkers may avoid
the windings by short-cuts, but should take care not to wander too
far from the road. To the left rises the Solheimsheia (1265 ft.); to
the right we have a fine view of the Halbrandsfos.
On arriving in the valley, our route joins a road which leads to
the left to the steamer-pier on the Ferdefjord, of which the upper
bay only is visible. We turn to the right and ascend the course of
the broad Jelstra to (about 1 Kil.) —
11 Kil. (pay in the opposite direction for 14) TtrrAe. By the
roadside stands *Hafstad's Hotel (R. I1/4-IV2, ^- 2V4 kr.). On the
right bank of the river, which is crossed by a long bridge, is
^Sivertsens Hotel (11. 1 1/4-2, B. or S. 1 V2, D- 2V4, pens. 5 kr. ; land-
lord speaks English). Near it, on the left, is the tolegraph-offlce,
and, on a moraine-hill to the right, the church. The broad and
smiling valley is enclosed by high hills: on the N. the Ferdenlp
(2825 ft.), on the E. the Viefjeld (sie below), and on the S.W. the
Solheimsheia (see above). Ferde is the capital of the district of
Sendfjord. The horses bred here and on other parts of the Nord-
fjord arc said to belong to the original Norwegian 'fjord race'.
»»n the Fardefjord, into which the Jglstra falls about !'/•.> Kil. below the
villase, a steamer plies twice weekly; to Nansldril on the N. bank in
l-l'/2hr., to Yhn-0 (p. 116) in 5 hrs.
To the N.E. (left) opens the Angedal, with the Sandfjeld
(4100 ft.) and the Kupepclde (4190 ft.) rising in the background.
Tim Nonlfjord road, which we follow, ascends tlie well-cultivatod
valley of the J-olstra on its left bank and passes numerous gaards.
Fine view of the broad Brelandsfos. On the opposite bank rises the
Viefjeld (2210 ft.). About 6 Kil. from Ferde the long Farsunde-Bro
carries tis across the lower end of the Movatten (76 ft.), a small lake
through which the Jalstra flows. The road then skirts the N. bank
12 ■*
180 R.24.— Map,p.i;K). JOLSTEUVAND. From theSoynefjord
oi' this lake, at the foot of the Viofjcld. On the 8. baiik lie several
gaards. At the head of the lake, on the right, is the agricultural
school ('Landbrugsskole') of Mo, beyond which is seen the fine
Huldrtfos. Beautiful pine-wood. About 5 Kil. from the Farsunde-
Bro a road diverges to the right to Holsen.
The road to Holsen (no skyds) crosses the .Telstra and leads a little
to the N. of the Aasenvand and along the N. bank of the Holsenvand
(410 ft.)- To the church oi Holsen about 9 Kil. — Tlie road goes on, over
the Rervikfjeld and past the Rervik Smtre, to the gaard of liervik on the
Haukedalsvand (863 ft.), at the N.E. end of which, about 1.5 Kil. fr<ini
Holsen, is the church of Ifatikedal. The road ends at the gaard of Grierning
(1090 ft.; quarters), 4-5 Kil. farther up the valley. Thence to Balholni
on the Sognefjord, see p. 134. — A grand but rough route, fording several
brooks, ascends the Grendril, with a view of the Grovebrw on the left
and the Jostedalsbrm on the right, to the Seknesandsskar, and descends to
Sffknesand (see below).
Beautiful scenery. The green wooded valley is backed by fjelds
to the E. and N.E. The rapid stream affords trout-flshiiig.
19 Kil. Nedre Vasenden [Nielsen's Hotel, good and moderate),
lies at the W. end of the Jelstervand, out of which the Jelslra flows
in a series of rapids (seen from the bridge close to the station).
The pretty *J«rlstervand (670 ft.), 23 Kil. long from S.W.
to N.E., is traversed several times daily by a small steamer (2 hrs.,
fare 2 kr.). Both banks are studded with gaards, most of them on
the 'Solside', or N. side. The lake contains excellent trout. The
road on the N. bank skirts the base of the Jygrnfjeld, passes the
gaards of Sviddal at the mouth of the little Bergsdal, and leads
through the fertile Aalhusbygd, with the church of Aalhiis or Jelster.
On the S. side of the lake rise the Sanddalsfjeld, the Klana, the
Orken, and the Sndelegy. Above these peep at intervals the Grove-
bra and the Jostedalsbrae. By the gaards of MykUbostad are several
pretty waterfalls.
To the left, at the E. base of the Bjersatfjeld (3'j14 ft.), which
the road skirts, lies the skyds-station of Aardal or Ordal. Farther
on is the church of Helgheim.
On the right opens a bay called the Kjesmesfjord (10 Kil.
long), backed by the blue-green Glacier of Lunde, To the N. of
the Kjasiiffisfjord rises the Bjerga (5510 ft.), and to the S. the
Seknesandsnipa (4965 ft.).
At the E. end of the Ki«»3npf.sfjord lie the gaards oi Seknesand and Lunde
(poor quarters at both), whence, with a guide, we may cross to the Gr0ndal
to the S. and go on to SvK'ren(p. 134), or we may cross the Jostedalsbraj to the
S.E. to Fjcerland (p. 134). The latter forms an attractive and (for adepts)
not over-difficult passage to the middle Sognefjord (comp. p. 131; to the
Lundeskar 21/2, to the glacier 1, across it I'/z, to the Bjzrjum-Sseter 2'/4) to
Fjserland 2 hrs.).
At the head of the Jelstervand (22 Kil. from Nedre Vasenden)
lies —
Skei (*Hotel Skei, owned by Tollef Skrede, R. 1-1 V2, B- or S.
11/2, D. 2'/4, pens. 5 kr.; Engl. Ch. Serv. in July & Aug.). Skei is
not a skyds-station, but conveyances are always to be had.
to the NmilfjOTfl. VA ATRDAL. Maps. pp. 130, Ifii. — '24. /?. 1^1
Just beyond Skei the road crosses a hill, the watershed hetween
the Jelstervaiul and the I'redhelinsvaiid , and passes the small
Feglevnnd and SIcredevand. On the right is the Fosheimsfos, de-
scending from the Bjerga. The road to the Bredheimsvand (see
below), diverging to the left at the S. end of the Bolsatvand, has
lost its importance, as boats are no longer provided for crossing
this lake. Our road as'^ends along the E. bank of the small Bol-
sjetvand and crosses a hill to the Stardal., at the head of which
appears the huge Jostedalsbric.
Beyond KUigegy (741 ft. ; 5 Kil. from Skei) the road divides, the
left branch leading to Egge, the right to Aamot in the Stardal.
The latter road ascends past the gaai-ds of Grehstad and Btfring to
(aliiiut 10 Kil.) Aamot (toleraMe quarters at Tolleif Aamol^s; guides always
on hand), the starting -pdint of several grand passes across the Joste-
oalsbka: (guides, Ole 'J'oUei/sen Aamot, EUing Aamot, fedcr Navnles; rope
necessary): —(I) dyer the "Oldenskar (0133ft.) to the Oldenvand (p. 186),
7-8 hrs. (21/2 to the foot of the Aamot Glacier, 2'/-2 over unpleasant 'Ur'
to the highest point, and a very steep and fatiguinj; descent of 2V2 more,
with line views, to ilalkevold and Rusteen, p. 1&6). This interesting ex-
cuisiiin, which is often made by ladies, is not difficult in good weather. —
(2) Across the Jostedalsbrfp to the AiislerdalsJ>ra\ and then down to Nordre
Nas (10-12 hrs.), conip. p. 142.
The road to Egge turns to the left into the narrow Vaatedal,
flanked with high mountains, and descends along the Vaatedals-
Elv. On the right rises the Hcfyheiinsfjeld, on the left the Svtn-
skenipa (4770 ft.). The road then crosses to the right bank. The
valley expands. On the right towers the conicalZ!,'(/</''ni?)&(((r)'ir)Oft.),
whi<',h may bo ascended from l^gge ((i-7 lirs. ; bridle-path to the
Egge-S;eter, lialfway).
14 Kil. Egge i Vaatedalen (558 It.; *ll<del lujye, 11. 2, 1'-. or
S. 1, D.'ikr.).
Farther on the road skirts the E. side of the Ikrgemsvund
(470 ft.). On tlic left rises tlie Raadfjelil, on tlie right the Vora.
Beyond the gaards of Uerghtiin or Bergem the road crosses a brook
issuing from the Sanddalsvand on the right and divides. The right
branch (very rough) ascends to Moldestad and Utviken (p. IH'2),
while the "ood new road to the left leads to —
\'l kil. Red or lie[Ilolcllrordon, well spoken of; Hotel Viclorld,
opposite) picturesquely situated on tlie E. bank of the Bredheims-
vand, lirehnsvand, or Breuinsuand (185 ft.; 896 ft. deep), a grand
and sombre Alpine lake, about IG Kil. long, enclosed by imposing
mountains. Hard by is the church of Bredheim. On the left rises
the Slcjorla ('shirt"; 5780 ft.).
The*Jioad, formed by blasting the rocks on tht; N. Lank of the
Bredheimsvand, rivals in its grandeur the Axenstrasse in Switzer-
land. At places it is carried over huge embankments. To the left
rises the Rysva.ih'irn. Beyond Vasenden the stream issuing from
the lake forms the Kidsfos. The road ascends gently, partly tlir(uif;li
wood, and then sinks asfain to —
182 Route 25. NORDFJORD.
14 Kil. Sandene, on the Oloppenfjord (p. 184), a station of
the Nordfjord steamers and of a local boat (see below).
The rough road diverging to the right from the Red road beyond
Bergheim leads to ( 7 Kil. from Egge) Moldestad, whence a road
leads to the E. to Fosheim and Myklebostad. Beautiful retrospect
of the Eggenibba.
To Fos/ieim 5 Kil., and thence past the Sanddalsvand to Myklebostad
nearly 4 Kil. more. From Fosheim a fine glacier-pass leads past the Store
Cecilieiilirona to Olden (p. 185). From Myklebostad wc may ascend the
Snenipa (6063 ft.).
The road to Utviken now crosses a high hill which separates
the Bredheimsvand from the Invikfjord, and first ascends and then
descends so steeply that walking is practically imperative (from
Moldestad to Utviken 31/2-4 hrs.). The road ascends between the
Skavlevagye on the right and the Fallefjeld on the left. As we
ascend, a view to the right is gradually disclosed of the vast snow-
expanses of the Gjetenyk (5S23 ft.). At the top of the ascent we
reach a plateau of moor (^2074 ft.), where the road undulates con-
siderably, passing numerous bogsy ponds and erratic boulders.
To the S.W. we have a retrospect of the Skarstenfjeld (p. 184),
with its sharply defined outline. On the N. margin of the plateau
we at last come in sight of the Invikfjord far below, commanded
on the N. by the Laudalstinder, the Storhorn with its large glacier,
and the Hornindalsrokken. The descent is rapid at first and after-
wards in gradual windings, which tlie walker may avoid by easily-
followed short-cuts. The Stor-Etv, which descends in numerous
falls on the right, turns several mills at Utviken.
20 Kil. (from Egge ; pay for 26) Utviken, a station of the Nord-
fiord steamer and of a local boat (see p. 184).
25. The Nordfjord,
Steameks (not all with separate staterooms) from Bergen to Fahide
thrice a week in 2i-36 hrs. (fare 14 kr. 80 0.); thence to Visnws ^j-i hr.
more (15 kr. 30 0.): to Loen 1 hr. beyond Visnses (15 kr. CO 0.); and to
Olden 1 hr. more (15 kr. GO 0.). In the height of summer a local steamer
also plies on Mon., Tues., Wed., Thurs., & Sat. from Sandene (Gloppen)
to Utviken, Faleide, Slryn, Olden, and Loe?i, and on Mon., Tues., Wed.,
Thurs., Frid., & Sat. from Falekle to Visnces, Olden, and Loen.
The long sea- voyage from Bergen to the Nordfjord can hardly be re-
commended. Most travellers will probably steam from Sandene (pp. 182, 1^4)
direct to Vis7ia;s, Loen, or Olden (p. 185j; make excursiims in the Loendal
or the Oldendal; and continue their journey through the Strynsdal and
Videdal (R. 26).
The *Nordfjord, running parallel with the Sognefjord, one de-
gree of latitude farther to the N. , but scarcely half the length (50 M.),
extends inland to the N.W. slope of the Jostedalsbrce {-p. 130). In this
case also the finest scenery is to be found in the inmost recesses of the
fjord, here of unusual grandeur and plcturesqueness. No grander
NORDFJORDEID. 25. Route. 183
combination exists of wide expanses of water with mighty moun-
tains and extensive glaciers. Nowhere are the peculiar charms of
Norwegian scenery, as contrasted with the finest Alpine panoramas,
more adequately illustrated. Different parts of the fjord have
different names. The name 'Nordfjord' formerly applied to the N.
part of the Nordre Bergenhus Amt, but is now generally given
to the tjord also.
Steamer from Bergen to Molde (13-15 hrs.), see pp. 175, 177.
The steamer then retraces its course and steers to the E. between
Vemelsvik and Gangse into the Nordfjord. The first station is Ruy-
sund, on the S. side, opposite the Rugsunde.
From the next station Bryggen, on the N. bank, a road leads
over the Maurstadeid (2080 ft.) to Aahjem on the Vanelvsfjord
(20 Kil.; p. 177). — We next call at Haugs or Haus in the Daviks-
fjord, also on the N. bank; at Davik, in a pretty bay of the S. bank,
once the residence of the poet Claus Frimann (d. 1829); and at
Domsten or Dombesten. Splendid view to the S. of tlie Aalfothrce.
The fjord now forks into the Isfjord to the S.E. (see below) and
the Eidsfjord to the E., where the steamer touches at Starheim,
Naustdal or Nestdal, and (51/2 lirs. from Molde) —
Nordfjordeid, a large place with a ch\irch, post-office, and bank.
About 1 M. from the pier is Boalths Enke's Hotel (comfortable),
often wholly occupied by English salmon-fishers. — From Nord-
fjordeid a road ascends the valley to Nor or Nord (7 Kil.), on the
Hornindalsvand, the geological continuation of the Eidsfjord, and
184 ft. higher, while its depth extends to 1590 ft. below the sea-
level. Its lofty banks are partly wooded. From Nor a steamer plies
occasionally in 31 '2-4 hrs. to Qrodaas and Kjes (p. 194).
From Kordfjoudeid to Volden (p. 203), 46 Kil. A road leads to the
W. alung the Eidsfjord to a bifurcation, whence the road to the left
leads to Naustdal (aee above), and that to the right to (15 Kil.) the slow
station of Smerdal. Fine view of the Gjegnabrae (see below) behind us.
The road crosses the pass (1640 ft.) and descends rapidly to (11 Kil., pay
for 13) the slow station of Sendre Birkedal , on the lake of that name,
with picturesque rocky environs. Then, pa.st Kile., to the (10 Kil.) slow
station of SIrems/iavn, on the. JCile/Jord, the S.W. liay nf the Voldenfjord,
and by boat across the Ijord to (10 Kil.) Vnlden.
From Sendre Birkedal an interesting path ascends the Laurdal and
crosses the fjeld to the Dalsfjord. On the way we may ascend tlie 'Felden
(429S ft.) for the .«ake of a grand mountain and glacier view, in which
case the whole route takes 8-iO hr.<. (with guide). We descend to Indre
Dale, on the Dalr/Jord, an arm of the Voldenijord. Thence to Volden
by boat about li Kil.
Returning to the entrance of the Eidsfjord, the steamer rounds
the promontory of Haunnces and enters the Isfjord. Beyond the
promontory of Askevik we enter the Aalfotfjord, where the steamer
calls at Aalfot. To the S. of the Isfjord we see the *0ksend(tls-
slrenge, the discharges of the Aalfothrif and the (ijeynabrce, which
descend in fine cascades from the gorges of the Vestre and /Ustre
0ksendal. We approacli quite close to tliese falls in leaving tlie
184 R.2r>. — Map,p.lR9. TIUNnVIKRFJORD. Nnrdfjord.
Aalfottjonl. Farther on we pass the mighty Skjcer in g (4075 ft.),
■with tlie solitary farm of Skjeistrand. The fjord here is called the
HundviksQord. We cross the mouth of the Hyenfjord, which cuts
deep into the S. bank (view of the Gjegnabrae), to the station
Hestnctseren (quarters at the post-offlce). Some of the steamers go
on to Hyen, at the S. end of the fjord.
In the Hyenfjord, opposite HestncPg^ren, opens the Skjaerdal, a grand
valley, through which we may proceed past the Heimestel to the Gjegnabrw.
1'he. fivartevandstind s.-aA t\\c Ojegnet (5650 ft.), two splendid points of view,
may be ascended. The descent may be made to the 0ksendal, or to the
S. to Hope, near the S. end of the Hyefjord (guide and rope necessary). —
Other good opportunities for glacier-excursions are afforded by the Bukkenipa
(5250 ft.) and Ihe Slorhesl, to the W. fjf the 0ksendal, and by the Marielind
and Sagen, to the W. of the Aalfotbrw.
The steamer now steers round the Kvitemvs and enters the at-
tractive Gloppenfjord, the W. side of which is flanked by lofty
mountains, some clad with snow. In this fjord are Ryy and the
churcli of Oimmestad on tlie W. bank, and the church of Oloppen oa
the E. bank. We next reach (3t/2-4 hrs. from Nordfjordeid) —
SAndene or Gloppen (*Hot. Gloppen. 5 niin. from the pier,
English spoken, R., B., or S. I72, ^- ^1/4 kr. ; *K. G. Sivertsen's
Hotel, 5 min. farther on, similar charges; Engl. Ch. Serv. in Aug.),
charmingly situated at the S.E. end of the fjord, whore the road
from Red along the Bredheimsvand (seep. 181) terminates (carriages
to Skei, etc., see p. 178). Beautiful walks and good trout-lishing
near. Steamers ply to Bergen thrice weekly and to Faleide, Loen,
and Olden five times weekly.
We return to the main fjord, here called TJtfjord. The hills are
prettily wooded and dotted with farms. Fine retrospect of the
glacier-sheathed Gjegnet( see above) to the S.W. Stations: Rysfjceren,
on the S. bank, and Rand, on the N. bank. On the N. bank, a little
farther on, is a line waterfall. The fjord is now called the Invikfjord.
Numerous gaards are seen on the green slopes of the N. bank. To
the E. we have a view of the glaciers of the Store Cecilienkrona and
Grytereidsnib. In 31/2 hrs. after leaving Sandene we reach —
Utviken (^Hotel Britannia, kept by Landhandler Loen), a pretty,
scattered village with a church. The road from Egge (p. 181) ends
here. It is also a station of the Bergen and Nordfjord steamers. The
fjord now turns sharply to the N. On the left rises the Selvhjery-
fjeld, with several gaards on its slopes. On the right, in a beautiful
bay, lies the steamboat-station Indviken (no inn), with its church,
at the mouth of the wild Frctstedal, which is flanked by the Skarsten-
fjcld (5384 ft.), on the N., and the Sterlaugpig (5544 ft. ; both easy
and interesting ascents), on the S. We next steer round the pro-
montory of Hildehalsen, where the tjord again turns to the E., to —
Faleide (*Tenc?en's Hotel, three houses; landlord speaks English;
Engl. Ch. Serv. in July & Aug.), which, has now lost much of its
importance as a tourist-centre in comparison with Vismes, Loen,
and Olden (local boats, see p. 182). — A road affording beautiful
Nordfjord. VISN^.S. Map, p. 182. — 25. U. 185
views, from wliich the Grodaas road (p. iy4) (Uverges to the left,
skirts tbe fjoni, crosses the Stryiis-Elv at Tonlna, and leaJs to Visnses
(9 Kil. ; skyds for one pars. 1 kr. 53, two pers. 2 kr. 35 e. ; calesch-
vogn for two. three, or four pers. 4, 5, or 51/2 kr.)
The fjord is now superb. Beyond it towers the castellated Aar-
heimsfjeld (_2018 ft.), at the foot of whicli opens the Strynsdal. At
the mouth of this valley lies the steamboat-station —
Visnaes y Stryn [*Holel Cenlral, also a skyds-station, R. IV^---
D. 21/4, B. or S. 11/2, pens. 4-6 kr. ; Visnaes Hotel, \txy fair, English
spoken, both at the pier; Hot. Wiiy, on the road to Faleide, 1 M.
from the pier, beyond the bridge over the Stryns-Elv, at Toning,
see above), the starting-point for the Strynsdal and the Videdal
(p. 188). A road to Loen is being constructed.
In the distance, a little to the right of the Aarheimsfjeld, are
the SIcaala (6360 ft.; 'bowl'J, with its glacier-basin, and the .San-
denib (p. 187); nearer rises the Auflemsfjeld (see below), which
separates the Loendal from the Oldindal. To the riglit, behind the
Auflemsfjeld, appears lat 'r the Melheimsnib (p. 187). To the
.S. wc lonk up the Oldendal, with the Store Cecilienkrona (W. ;
p. 18()) and the Havnefjeldsbrai (E.). On the N. bank rises the
Opheimsfjeld, a splendid point of view (ascent from the gaard liuke,
2 hrs.).
Loen (^Hotel Alexandra, two large houses, English spoken; R.,
B., or S. IV2, !>• 2, pens. 4V2-5kr. ; Engl. Gh. Scrv. in July &
Aug.), with a small church, at tlie mouth of the Loendal (p. 187),
bounded by the Lofjdd (N. ) and thi^. Auflemsfjeld {S.; 5090 ft.).
The voyage from Loen toOlden takes V2l"'-i from Visnais ^/^hr.
Olden, or Olderen [Yri's Hotel, ^/^ M. from the pier; carriages
in waiting at the pier; Engl. Ch. Serv. in summer), lies at tlie
S. end of the fjord, at the mouth of the beautiful Oldeitdal. To the
right we see the Store Cecilienkrona and the l!eMn;es-Ivlaaven, to
the left the Synsnib and the Midheimsnili ((;onip. p. 180).
Excursions to the Oldendal, Loendal, and Strynsdal.
The (Lrcc valleys Oldendal, Loendal, and SIri/nsdal, to the S.E. and
K. ul' the Invikfjord, extend into the heart of the Norwesjian Fjeld, and
to the Jostedahbrw (p. ISO). Kach of these valleys is occupied by a lake,
11-16 Kil. lon'^, formed by an ancient moraine or rocky ridu,e (Kid),
which separates it from the fjord. All three lakes, but especially those
in the Oldendal and Loendal, are enclosed by hut;e precipices rising to
5U0O ft., over which lower peaks to a height of 1000-1500 ft. more. From
these descend glaciers on every side. The abundance of trout and salmon
attracts many anglers. — Guides are not necessary except for the glaciers.
The best are said to be Anders E. Brigsdal, Jiasmus R. Aabrickke. Lars
Jonssen Balalden, and Ilalstein Muri of Olden, Thov Antonsen Greidtitnj of
Oiistryn, the two No'sdals (p. 188j, and J. J. Myklehostad (p. ISG).
1. *ExcuiisioN TO TUB Oluendal (there and back, 8^/2 hrs.).
Olden, see above. The road to Eide (5 Kil.; stolkjairre IV2 '''"m
there and back 2 kr. (10 n.) would form a pleas.nnt walk were i\ot the
186 R.25.— Map,p.l8-2. OLDENVAND. Nordfjord.
starting of the steam-launches on the Oldenvand so arranged as to
leave no time for it. The road ascends along the milky stream, with
continuous view of the Store Cecilienkrona (see below) , passes
the Lekenfos halfway, and crosses the river. It then skirts the W.
side of the pretty Floenvand to (25 min.) the gaards of —
Eide, at the N. end of the *01deiivand (120 ft.), 11 Kil. long and
barely 1 Kil. broad , enclosed by precipitous rocks. The steam-
launch (1 1/2 kr., there and back 21/2 kr.), which makes the passage in
'■^/iliT., is dirty and uninviting, and (if time allows) a rowing-boat,
with two rowers, which costs 5 kr. and takes 2 hrs., is preferable.
On the left, soon after starting, we see the gaard of Sandnces,
and on the right an ancient moraine with the gaard of Bennas,
above which rises the Bennces-Klaaven. Waterfalls on every side.
To the right rise the huge precipices of the Store Cecilienkrona
(5625 ft. ; ascent fairly easy, guide 6 kr.). To the left, by the side
of torrents, lie the gaards of Haahjem, Strand, and Ojerde. To the
S. the lake appears walled in by the Synsnib, but on neariug Sunde
we see through an opening to the right the Orytereidsnib (5615 ft.)
and the Yrinib with two glaciers. • — The strait of *Sunde has been
formed by the deposits of two streams descending on the left from
the SundebrcE, between the Ojerdeaxele (6420 ft.) and the Neslenib
(4860 ft.). On the same bank are the gaards of -Swric/e. A strong
current flows through this narrow strait. On rounding the sombre
steeps of the Synsnib, we obtain a magnificent **View of the S.
half of the lake, which here expands a little. The Maelkevoldsbrje,
a huge and imposing glacier, seems to descend to the head of the
lake. To the right towers the Yrinib, with its waterfalls, and at its
base lie the gaards of Bak-Yri and Indre-Yri. At the end of the
lake is the Rustefjeld, with its waterfall. On the left is the preci-
pice of the Kvamfjeld, with several other cascades. The steam-
launch lands at —
Rusteen (rfmts. at the guide Jakob Jenssen Myklebostad^s},
whence it starts 4 hrs. later for the return-trip. This does not allow
too much time for a visit to the Brigsdalsbrae, and the traveller is
therefore recommended to secure one of the vehicles in waiting
(cariole to Gaard Brigsdal, about 5 Kil., 2, stolkjjerre 3 kr.). A
good road leads across swampy alluvial lands, passing (10 min.) the
gaards of Kvamme, to (1/2 hr.) Malkevoid. To the left, above us,
is the Aabrekkebra, enclosed by two rocky heights and taking its
name from the gaards visible beyond Mselkevold. Also to the left
is the Brigsdalsbrffi. At the head of the valley is the beautiful Mcclke-
■iioldsbrae, imbedded between the Kattenak and the Middagsnib. To
the right of the glacier is the pretty twin fall of the Vaalefos.
Fkom M^lkevold to Aamot, a fine fjeld-pass of 7-8 hrs., see p. 181.
Rasmus R. Aabraike may be recommended as a guide.
The road ascends over 'Ur' and in 25 min. crosses the river at
the confluem e of the streams desiending from tlie Vaalefos and the
Nordfjord. LOENDAL. .¥<jp, p. 752.— 25. R. 187
Brigsdal (I.). In 10 min. more we reach the end of the road at
Guard Brigsdal (490 ft.) where dinner may be ordered to be ready
on our return (very fair, '2 kr. ; bottle of beer 60 0.).
A stony path on the right bank of the Brigsdals-Elv ascends to
the C/o hr.) Waterfall of that stream, and to a higher zone of the
valley, where we obtain to the E. a striking view of the '''Brigsdals-
brae, the blue ice-waves of which tower above birch and alder
tliickets. Our route leads through the wood to (20 min.) the foot
of the glacier (1000 ft.), containing a superb ice-cavern, from which
the stream issues. Another glacier, from which waterfalls and
occasionally blocks of ice descend, is seen high up to the S.
The Brigdalsbrae, an offshoot of the Jostedalsbrse, ia very steep and
was ascended for the first time in 1895 by K. Bing (p. 117), with the gnide
Rasmus Rasmussen Aabrekke (to the top, 9 hrs.).
2. **ExcuRsiON TO THE LoBNr).\L (7 hrs. , there and back).
Loen, see p. 186. The road to the Loenvand (stolkjaerre 1 kr. ;
a pleasant walk, but comp. pp. 185, 186) ascends on the right bank
of the foaming torrent. We follow the main road, which trends to
the right. The landscape, with its trees, shrubs, and green meadows,
looks like a park. Above it tower great mountains, partly snow-
clad. The road crosses the stream coming down from the Tjuyedal
on the left. The Loendals-Elv forms the Haugfos, a fall of horseshoe
shape.
The ascent of the Skaala (6356 ft.; from Loen and back 7-3 hrs. ; guide
5 kr., fur a party rather more) is attractive. A new road, ascending from
the Tjugedal, is to be completed in 1903. A stone tower crowns the top.
A vast snow-licld covers the W. slope. — A sajter-path to the E. of the
Tjugedal leads to the TJugedals- Safer, whence we ascend steeply (no path)
over unplea'^ant 'Ur' to the top of the pass. On the other side we de-
scend at first over snow and then bv a path to the church of 0})stryn
(p. 189; 5-6 hrs. in all).
In 25 min. from Loen if driving, in 3 ^ hr. if on foot, we reach —
Vasenden, at the N. end of the *Loenvaiid, a grand Alpine lake,
12 Kil. long. It is traversed by a steamboat (return-fare l^j-i kr.),
which takes ■'^ hr. to reach the head of the lake. A rowing-boat
(there and back b^ji^r., with two rowers) takes about 2 hrs.
Soon after starting we are in full view of the whole lake. On
the left, above the gaard of Sande, rises the Sandenib (5425 ft.);
on the right are the Auflemsfjeld and the Melheimsnib (5428 ft.).
From all the mountains, especially from the Kavnefjeld (6575 ft.)
on the right, descend large glaciers, all, however, ending high
above the lake. At the Brengsnces-Sater, on the left, a lofty M-ater-
fall descends from the Skaalebrae (p. 188). On the W. side of
the lake is the huge Hellesaterbrce, terminating abruptly at a height
of about 3900 ft., from which numerous streams and (in hot
weather) ice-avalanches fall, spreading out below like a fan. On the
E. bank are the gaard of Hogrending and a waterfall coming from
the Ostendiit.slirie. The W. bank is uninhabited. On the E. rises
188 7?.o,5.__3f„p^ p. 7«o. KJENT)ALSnR.4^. Nnrdfjnril.
the Kvcernhusfjeld (5700 ft.), with the gaard of Redi at its foot.
To the W. is the serrated liavnefjeld (6575 ft.), the base of
•which we skirt tovpards the S. On the left we look up the Bedal,
■with its gaard, backed by the Skaalfjeld with the Skaalehra.
From the gaard of B0dal we may visit the Bedals-Soeter and the ad-
jacent Bedalsbrce (I'/is-S hrs.). By sleeping at the sater 3 hrs. distant
from B0dal, we may ascend the Lodalskaupe (6790 ft.; 8-10 hrs.; p. 14C).
This is a fine excursion, for which two guides (30 kr.) and provisions are
necessary. Arrangements must be made beforehand at Loen , and the
steamboat should be notilied to call at B/sdal for the return on the follow-
ing day.
The lake contracts to a strait. In front of us towers the Nons-
nib, rising sheer to the overwhelming height of over 6000 ft. To
the right, in front of it, opens the Kvanddl or Nasdal, with its
glacier, adjoining which is the Vliydrd.ffos, a waterfall 2000 ft.
liigh, descending from the glaciers of the Kavnefjeld. Passing
through a bend of the lake, we enter the impressive *Basin of Naes-
dal, bounded by the Kavnefjeld on the W., the Nonsnib on the
S., and the Bedalsfjeld on the E. Between the last two peep the
Kronehra and the KjenddLskronn (bQdb ft.). The grandeur of the
scenery here is unequalled in 8. Norway. On the alluvial land at
the mouth of the Kvanduls-Elv lie the turf-roofed gaards of Ncpsd(d.
At the landing-place of 'Kjendal is a restaurant kept by the
landlord of the Alexandra Hotel (p. 185), where a dinner (2 kr.)
may be ordered for the return. A new tourist-route (practicable
for vehicles for a distance of ij'/a l^ih) leads hence over a sandy,
level stretch and then ascends the N. side of the valley; a stone em-
bankment protects it on the side next the river. After about 3/4 hr.
suddenly appears the *Kjendalsbrae, on which waterfalls descend
from the right. In Y2 ^^^- more, crossing part of the glacier-stream
on stepping-stones, we reach the glacier. The stream issues from
a magniticent vault of blue ice. It is dangerous to walk on the
glacier, or even to go too near it, on account of the falling stones.
From Nasdal (tolerable quarters at Jacob N(esdaVs) across the Josle-
dalsbrce to the Josiedal, a grand e.xpedition of about 15 hrs. (comp. p. 147).
(juides, Jacob and Simon Ncesdal.
3. **A Visit to the Stkynsdal is made almost exclusively on
tlie way to or from Grotlid (comp. p. 190), but also forms, in con-
juiii;tiou with a drive to a point above Skaare (p. 190), a fine day's
excursion from Visnaes or Faleide (10-11 hrs.).
Visnas, see p. 185. The road (skyds, 1 pers. 1 kr. 87, 2 pers.
2 kr. 81 e. ; caleschvogn for 1, 2, or 3 pers. 5, 6, or 7 kr.) crosses
the Stryns-Elv, on the right bank of which the routes to Faleide-
Hellesylt (to the left, via Toning, p. 185) and to Stryn diverge
from each other. Our road ascends to the E. via Ytre Eide (waterfall),
the church of Nedstryn (right), and the gaards of Gjerven a.n(i.J0vre
Eide. On the other bank stands the house of an Englishman wlio
holds the lease of the flsliing. Farther on we skirt tlie Nedre I'loden.
Xoril/jord. STin'N.SVAND. Map, p.l8-J.— -25. R. 189
tlic lower arm of tlie Stryiisvaml ; to the left of the road is a large
'giant's cauldron' or pot-liole (p. 294). The huge mountain ahead
is the Flofjeld, with the Kindalshorn; to the right is the Bra>kke-
fjeld, with a large snow-field. In II/4 hr. after leaving Visnajs we
cross to the S. bank of the lake aiid reach —
11 Kil. Mindre Sunde (*Hot. MindreSunde, well suited for a long
stay, R. l'/2, D. 2, B. or S. ii/i kr.), the starting-point of the
poor steam-launch which crosses once or twice daily to (13 Kil.)
Hjellein IV4-- lirs. (fare I1/2 kr.}. Sunde is not a skyds-station,
but small boats may generally be procured for Hjelle ('2'/4-'2V2 1^^^- i
boat with two rowers 3 kr. 64 0., with three rowers 5 kr. 20 0., and
gratuity). Carriages may also be had here for driving back to
Visnffis. — The skyds-station is 3 Kil. farther to the E., at Bergstad
or Meland (Hot. Victoria).
The *Strynsvand or Opstrynsvand (80ft.), the largest of the
three Alpine lakes to the E. of the Nordfjord, is not less imposing
than the Oldenvaiid and Loenvaud , and even surpasses them in
variety. It is 16 Kil. long and 650 ft. deep and at first is narrow.
The Store Sundfos descends on the left. To the right is the gaard
of Dispen, below the glacier of the same name. In front the scene
is closed by the Flofjeld, behind by the sharp Kirkenibbe. On the
bank to the right lies Meland (see above). To the left rises the
wall of the Skjibergsfjeld, beyond which opens the Vesle Bygdal,
with its gaards. At two islets, beyond the gaard of Lindvik (on
the leftl, the lake expands, bends to the S.E., and reveals its full
grandeur. In front is the Erdal, with its background of glaciers.
To the right is the Fosnceshrce, descending from the Skaala ( p. 187).
To the left is the Marsaafos; then, the Flofjeld {iAOO ft.), with the
Kindalshorn (pdbO ft.') behind it, and the gaards of Fio (720 ft. ;
good quarters; guide for the pass over the Flofjeld to Hellesylt,
p. 19(3) perched in front of it. To the right is the 'nose" of Tunolds-
haugen, with the gaards of Tunold and (higher up) Bnrkke and
Alining. Farther on, to tlie right, are the Church of Opstryn and
the gaards of Fosnas, which give name to the just-mentioned glacier.
On the other side we see into the Qlomsdal, with the gaards of
Glomsntvs and Sigdestad ; below is a fine waterfall. The huge Hjelle-
hydna separates the Videdal from the majestic Erdal, in which, as
we near Hjelle, appears the Tindefjeldsbrce (r.), overlooked by the
peak of the Yngvar Nielsens Tind (5775 ft.). At the mouth of the
Videdal lies —
Hjelle or Jelle (*Hot. Hjelle, li. 11/2, B. IV4, 1>. 21/4, S. I'/o kr.),
the starting-point for the pass to the Geiranger (R. 26) and the
Gudbrandsdal (see pp. 190 and 68-66).
The traveller will also be repaid by a visit to the wild Sundal, to
which a poor road divcrgo<! to the right about 2 Kil. from Hjelle. It
leads to the gaanl of Stinlalen (8 Kil.), whence we may walk to (IVz l»r.)
the SuiHlols-ScBter (pass to the Rauddal and the Framrust-Seeter, see p. 63).
1^>0 Route l>6. SKAARE.
From IJjelle we may row in a short ','2 hr. to tlie gaartl »t Erdal, at
the S. end of the Strynsvand, whence a walk of 1/2 hr. brings us to the
gaard oi Oredung (tolerable quarters; Thor Antnnsen Greidung, certificated
guide), the starting-point of a visit to the '-Erdal or Aardal, into which
glaciers descend on all sides. Before us, to the right, is the Tindefjeldsbra\
with Yngvar Nielsens find (ascended by K. Bing in 1893); to the left are
the Ryghydna (53'25 ft.) and the Sceterfjeld (6203 ft.1. From Grednng we
ascend, with a view of the Erdalsbrce or Oredungsbrm , which stretches
down between the Strt/nskaupe and the Skaal/jeld , to (2-21/2 hrs.) the
loftily-situated Oredungs-Sreier, at the foot of the fissured glacier (2316 ft.).
— The route from the Gredungs-Saeter over the Jostedalsbrse to the
Lodalskaupe (p. 18S), and past it to Faaberg in the Jostedal (p. 188), takes
9-11 hrs., and requires an experienced guide (12-14 kr.).
26. From the Nordfjord to Aalesund and Molde.
a. From the Strynsvand vifi. Grotlid to Marok.
82 Kil. Road with fast stations. The whole distance is rather fatiguing
for one day, but the nightquarters at Grotlid and at the Djupvashytte can
hardly be recommended. The best bits for walking (not befure mid-July ;
comp. below) are from Skaare to Vasrendingen (see lielow and p. 191; 4V2hrs.)
and from the Djupvashytte to Marok (pp.192, 193; 3'/2hrs.). As Vasvendingen
is not a station, those who wish to drive from that point must bring skyds
from Stenhus; in the opposite direction skyds may be obtained in Grotlid
for the stage to Vasvendingen (15 Kil.). A 'kaleschvogn' and pair from Hjelle
to Marok for 2 pers. costs 55, for 3 pers. 65, for 4 pers. 70 kr. ; a cariole costs
for 1 pers. 23 kr. 17 0. and a stolkjserre (2 pers.) 34 kr. 76 0.
The '*Road through the Videdal to Grotlid, opened for traffic in 1896,
forms, in conjunction with the road to Marok (opened in 1889), the finest
means of access from the Nordfjord to the district of S0ndm0re (Aalesund,
Molde). Both routes are seen to greatest advantage in descending the
valley ; but the Videdal road reveals so many magnificent views in both
directions, that it may also be recommended to walkers and others ascend-
ing the valley. The main charm of the Geiranger road is its sudden
plunge from the lofty fjelds to the sea-level. Both roads rank among the
very finest in W. Norway. Even in June the snow may still be troublesome.
Hjelle, at the E. end of the Strynsvand, see p. 189. — The road
ascends along an ancient moraine, through which the Videdals-Elv
has broken its way. Fine *Retrospect of the finely shaped and
conspicuous Skaala (p. 187), the Tindefjeld, the Fomcfsbrm, the
Brcekkefjeld, and other snow-mountains to the S.W. of the Stryns-
vand. Farther on the road becomes more level. To the right opens the
Sundal (p. 189), with the snow-flelds and glaciers of the Ssterfjeld.
A bridge crosses the Sundals-Elv. The gaards of Folven are passed.
The loops of the road on the Aaspelifjeld are seen in the distance.
We cross the river and after a drive of 3/4 hr. from Hjelle reach —
7 Kil. Skaare (D. '2kr. ; owner, RasmusSkaare, an excellent guide).
From Skaare to the Djupvashttte, a grand, but laborious route of
6-6V2hrs. (guide; stout boots necessary for the marshy places). From the
J0lbro (p. 191) we ascend to the left, through the Skceringsdal, to the
(I3/4 hr.) Skaringsdal-Sicter. Hence the route leads to the right, up the
Grasdal, to the Gvasdalsvand and thence (steep) to (4 hrs.) the snow-covered
Grasdalsskar , between the Grasdalsegg and the SkKringsdal'bric. We
then descend to the (3/4 hr.) Djupvashytte (p. 192).
About 2 Kil. beyond Skaare we have a view to the right of the
deep ravine of the Videdals-Elv. The road reaches the mouth of
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GROTLID. t>6\ livute. 191
the Shrringsddl, crosses it. by the ^Jelbro (300 ft. above the river),
and ascends the Anspelifjeld in sweeping curves between the two
ravines. To the right is a lofty waterfall, descending from the snow-
flelds of the Nuken. The road crosses the Videdals-EIv and follows
its left bank. Grand ^Retrospect of the Videdal, flanked on both
sides by mountains projecting one before another. In the background
rises the Skaala. Walkers, who cut off the curves of the road, take
l-li/4hr. from the Jelbro to the top of the pass. [A footpath to the
left here leads to (5 min. ) a ralled-off terrace commanding a view
of the Bfstebrofoa.] A walk of 20-25 min. more up the gentler
ascent of the upper valley, finally recrossing to the right bank of the
stream, brings us to the former skyds-station of Stenhtis (2560 ft.).
The next part of the route is much hampered with snow even as
late as August.
About l'/.2 Kil. farther on begin the windings by which the road
ascends to a third level of the valley. To the right and left are
waterfalls. To the right, high up on the slope of the Raudegg, is the
long Tystighnr. We have another fine retrospect of the head of the
Strynsvand. backed by the Skaala and the Brcekkefjeld.
13 Kil. (pay for 17) Vide-Saeter '(/nn, opened in 1903, kept by
the guide Ramsus Skanre; R. IV2, B. or S. 1 1/2, D- 'iVi kr.). — The
road twice crosses the stream, which here forms many pretty water-
falls, passes several tarns, and on the Langevand, which is not
wholly free of ice till August, reaches the boundary between Nordre-
Bergenhus-Amt and (!hristiaiis-Amt. To the right is the E. part of
the Tystigbrse.
Farther on we pass several small lakes, as we follow the hilly
road through the Vatxvenddal. At Vnsrendingcn (rfmts.) we reach the
highest point of the road (3740 ft.; a drive of I1/.2 hr. from the
Vide-Sieter). To the right is the Skridulaupbrae (p. 192). Behind
we have our last view of the Skaala.
Grotlid is still 15 Kil. distant, a drive of ll^-l'/'ihr. To the right,
between the Raudeggen and the Skridulaupen, opens the Maaraadal,
with its snow-fields and glaciers. Beyond the Heilstuguvand Grotlid
comes into sight. The Stryn road joins the Geiranger road 3 Kil. to
the W. of Grotlid, which is reached 4 hrs. after leaving Stenhus.
Those who d(i nut .''pend fhe night at Grotlid and have arran^'ed for
skyds at the Vide-Snter save 6 Kil. and the delay of a halt at Grotlid by
turning to the left (W.) at the juiiction of the two roads.
28 Kil. ( pay for 42) Grotlid, Qrjotli., or OrjotUen ('stony slope' ;
2865 ft.), a Fjcldstuc or mountain-inn belonging to government,
resembling those on the Dovrefjeld (p. 71), affords tolerable fare
(R., B., or S. 11/21 D. 2 kr.). It is situated in a typical fjeld-solitude.
To the S. we see the long snow-field of the Skridulaupen. Grotlid
is the junction of the roads from Stryn and the Geiranger on the
one hand and that from the Gudbrandsdal (R. 9) on the other.
Reindeer and occasionally bears are to be met with in the environs.
192 l{.'26.~Map,p.I90. D.IUPVASIIYTTE. From the Nordfjord
Skvds Tahhk. To the fJjupvashi/fte (3 hrs.), 1 pers. 6 kr. 12, 2 pcrs.
9kr. 180.; to Mavok 10 kr. 54, 15 kr. 81 0.; to the Slenhus in the Videdal
(3V2hrs.), 1 pers. 8 kr. 80, 2 pers. 13 kr. 20 f<. ; to Skaare 11 kr. 44, 17 kr.
16 0.; UUIJeile 12 kr. 63, 18 kr. Qo0.\ to Polfossen (2'/2hrs. ; p. 6S), 1 pers.
4 kr. 59, 2 pers. 6 kr. 89 0.
From Grotlid to the Tafjord, abnut 11 hrs. (!j;uide to Kaldhus-Seetcr
necessary, 4-5 kr. ; horse 7 kr.). The path leaves the Marok road by the
bridge over the JIamsa (see below ; the path on the right bank soon
ceases), and ascends the course of that stream to its source in the Via-
vande. a series of lakes to the W. of the HeiUtugegg and the Langegg.
Later on it passes the Fugerbottenvand and descends to the Kaldhus or
Kalur Scefer, on the lake of that name (1970 ft.; good entertainment in the
tourist-hut). Descent to the Tafjord (p. 201) 9-10 Kil. more.
Beyond the cross-roads mentioned above left, 'til Stryii'; right,
'til Gjiranger'J the Marok Road reaches the Breidalsvand (28S5l't. ;
8 Kil. long), bounded on the N. by the Breidalsegg and on the S. by
the V<itsvendegg or Langunsaxeln, and skirts its N. bank, crossing
several of its tributaries. Among these is the Hamsa, about 5 Kil.
from Grotlid, where the Tafiord route diverges (see above). We
pass the small Lagervand and tlie Lnngvand, with the Stavbrirkker
rising on the left and the Djvpvasegg (5400 ft.) on the right. About
10 Kil. from Grotlid a stone marks the boundary between the
Christians-Amt and the Romsdcils-Amt.
To the left appears the snowy expanse of the Skceringsdalsbnr,
to the S.W. of the J>jupvand (3300 ft.), which our road now reaches.
The water of this blue lake, often ice-clad as late as August, descends
to the E. to the Otta and the Laagen. The valley still rises a little
towards the right. At the top the Kolheinsdal descends to the N.,
traversed by a varde-marked path to the Viavande, Kaldhus-Sfeter,
and the Tafjord (comp. above). The road skirts the D.jupvand, on
the S. side of which we perceive the huge rocks of the Grasdalsegg
(5170 ft.) and the Sk^eringsdalsbrae. A 'bautasten' marks the
highest point of the road (3405 ft.). — At the W. end of the lake,
5 Kil. from the frontier-stone, is the —
2iKil. (pay for 36) Djupvashytte, 'il/i Its', drive from Grotlid,
[Jnn, R., B., &'s. each IV2, D- 2 kr.).
From the Djupvashytte via the Orasdalsskar and the ^kccringsdal to
Skaare, see p. 190 (guide 5 kr.).
A few hundred yards farther on we reach the watershed between
the Skager-Rack (towards which the Otta flows) and the Atlantic.
The road skirts the Rundhorn (4900 ft.). About 35 min. beyond the
Djupvashytte a finger-post on the left points the way to the Jcvtle-
gryde, a 'giant's cauldron' (p. 294), 7 ft. in diameter and 10-12 ft.
deep, which lies a few steps below the road.
The **FiNEST Part of the Route begins here (road built in
1881-89). The traveller should walk (31/2 lirs-; a drive of I3/4-
2 brs.). The road descends rapidly, in sharp zigzags and over bold
bridges spanning the wild torrent, to the Geiranger Fjord. Between
the brink of the descent' and Marok the distance is about 16 Kil.,
though in a straight line scarcely 6 Kil., and the difference in height
toMolde. GEIRANGER ROAD. Map,p.l90.-26.R. 193
is over 3000 ft. The road ranks among the grandest of its kind, and
the sudden and tremendous plunge it takes is not surpassed eveu
among the Alps.
A superb mountain-picture presents itself j ust beyond the 'giant's
cauldron', on crossing the 0i:re Blaafjeld-Bro. On the left rises
the Ftydalshorn, on the right the Vindaashorn ; beyond the latter
the Saathom (5830 ft.), aud then the Grindnlsnibba (6030 ft.). In
the distance are the mountains enclosing the Geiranger Fjord. Far
below lies the smiling Opl^endskedal, which, in contrast to the
overwhelming proportions of the fjeld, looks like an artificial park,
with its winding stream and curving road. In '/4 hr. we cross the
Nedre Blaafjeld-Bro. Walkers will do well to keep to the road, and
should in any case follow only the footpath 10 Min. beyond the Nedre
Blaafjeld-Bro and that beyond the stone marked '800 m. over Havet'.
To the right is the Kvandals-Elo, whii-h descends in several falls
from the Djupedal. In ^/4 hr. more we cross it by the Kvandah-Brn,
Four bold curves carry us down to the highest part of the Geiranger
basin, called the Opland-'^kedal , with the Oplandsgaard and the
0rje-SiHer (1410 ft. ; to the right, V2 hr. from the Kvandals-Bro).
The road again descends rapidly to the next region of the valley,
called the Flydal, with view, to the left, of the Flydalshorn and the
Bluahorn. Between these, high above the gaard oi Flydal, appears
the Flydalsbra, a huge snowy glacier with large crevasses. About
V4 M. beyond the 0rje-S£eter, 6 Kil. from Marok, the road forms a
'knude' or knot (1335 ft.), as it passes exactly under a higher part
of itself. To the left, about 1/2 M. farther on, is the picturesque
Tverabefos, which, however, is not seen in its entirety except from
the rocks below the road. A finger-post, 10 min. farther on, indi-
cates the way to the *Flydalsdjuvet (985 ft.), where we gaze to the
left into an abyss of several hundred feet. In front of us we see the
last level of the valley, with the Union Hotel and the church of
Marok. A little later the road passes the comfortable Hotel Udsigten
(p. 196), the view from which is similar to that from the Flydalsdjuv.
Very striking, as we descend, is the increasing number of water-
falls on every side. The largest tributaries descend on the right
from the Vesteraasdul, and unite below the gaard Hole, 5 min. from
the Hotel Udsigten, where we cross the Hole-Bro. About 2 min.
farther on a finger-post to the right indicates the way to the StoV'
salerfos (p. 197). We cross the Kope-Bro. The fine fall of the
Vesteraas-Elv, called the Kleivafos, is reached by a path to the
right ('100 m. over Havet), just above the Gjerde-Bro.
In 5 min. more we reach the Union Hotel (p. 196). The road
crosses the Vinje-Bro and passes the copious Storfos, beyond which
the river hurries with all the water of the valley to the fjord. It
then rounds the hill on which the church of O'tiramjer stands,
passes the Geiranger Hotel, and ends at the steamboat-pier of —
17 Kil. (pay for 26) Marok (see p. 196).
l'.Ai;uKKEi:'s Niii-vvay unil Sweden. 8th Kdit. l;-}
194 R.2C,.--Map,p.lS2. GROPAAS. From the Nonlfjord
b. From Faleide or Visnses wik Grodaas to Hellesylt
and Marok.
Road from Faleide or Visnses to Hellesylt with fast stations. Tlie
entire journey (8-9 Urs.) is often performed without change of horses,
with a rest of I'/x hr. at Grodaas. Fares from Visnaes to Hellesylt: 1 pars.
10 kr. 37, 2 pers. 15 kr. 57 0; caleschvogn for 2, 3, or 4 pars., 30. 34, or 37 kr.
(from Faleide 25, 27'/-, or 33 kr.). — Steamer from Hellesylt to Murok
several times a week in I'/a lir. (fare 2kr.); at other times a row-hoat
must lie used.
At the gaard o( Svarstad, about 2 Kil. from Faleide (p. 184)
and 7 Kil. from Visiiaes (p. 185), the road ascends in steep wind-
ings to the N.W., affording fine retrospects, through openings in
the wood, of the fjord and the mountains to the S. The highest
point of the road is about 800 ft. above tlie sea. Then over un-
dulating ground, througli a monotonous wooded district, skirting
tlie Lunyso'lerviind and several smaller lakes, and past several
gaards, we descend to —
12 Kil. (pay for 17 from Faleide, 23 from Visnies ) Kjes (Hotel
Kjers, very fair), on Kjesbunden, the S.E. bay of tlie Hornindals-
vand. We may row from Kjes to Grodaas, but driving is quicker.
Tlie liilly road skirts the lake and rounds the Kjffsnelh.
6 Kil. (pay for 8) Gxod.a.a.s (RaflevoUrs Holel, tolerable, K., B.,
or S. ll/o, D. 2 kr.), at the IL end of the Horninddlsvund, a lake
abounding in flsh and enclosed by wooded hills, on which a steam-
boat generally plies in summer (see also p. 183). A little to the
N. is the church of Hornindal. To the N.W. rises the Hornsnakk.
ExouKSioNS fioiu firodaas to Homsnakken, Kje/snebhen, and cither height.';,
2'/v:-3hrs. each. — The Gulekoj, (see lielow) and the OHltereggi,kVi'i ft. ; 5-G hrs.),
which rises from the lake to the S., may also be ascendrd hence.
From Grodaas a bridle-path leads by Tominastjaard and Ledi'mel
(where Rasmus A. L0demel is a good guide, who speaks English) to the
pass of Kviven (2795 ft.) and past the KvivdaUSutre, where it joins a
path from Oterdal on the Hornindalsvand, to (5 hrs.) Kaldvatii, on the
road from Bjerke to F0rde on the 03tetjord (p. 199).
A liner but longer route is the passage of the Hjorleskav to Rgrstad
(7-8 hrs.). This rinite ascends the Hjortdal (see below) to the Iljortdals-
iHmter, leads through the Blaahnvdal and along the glacier to the pass
between the Lauedalslinder and the snow-clad Utorliorn (5184 ft.), and
descends the Lauedal, passing the Lauedals-Sictre , to Rurslad, on the
Kaldvatn and Ejerke_road (p. 199).
The road ascending the Hornindal is so steep, that walkers pro-
gress almost as fast as carriages. It passes several substantial gaards,
the Denefos, and the entrance to the Hjortdal. The valley expands
farther up, and is flanked with snow-clad mountains. On the right
rises the huge Gulekop ; in front of it, the Seeljesalerhorn (2210 ft.),
below which opens the Knudsdal; then, the Mulsvorhorn (2700 ft.) ;
to the left, the Brakeyy (4320 ft.) and Lilledalseyg.
9 Kil. (pay for 11, but not in the reverse {iivection) IndrelLiu-
gen or Hougen, a poor station. Hans A. Kaftevold is a good guide.
Farther on we liave a view, up a side-valley to the left, of
the almost inaccessible-looking llonmidfdsmkkni (J)()i^> i't. ; ascent
to Molde. TIELI.ESYI.T. Map,p.l82.—2n.n. 195
from Haugeu 10 his., driving practicable for21irs. ; extensive view).
We tlien cross the boundary of tlie Nordrc liergenhns-Amt and
liomsdals-Aint.
G Kil. Kjdsladli. Travellers on their way N. do not usually
stop here ; those from the N. change horses here and pass Indre
Haugen without stopping. The new road avoids the hill to the left
on whicli the station formerly lay.
Grand scenery again. To the left opens the glacier-valley of
Kjelslad; to the right the Rerhiisdnl. with the pointed Rerhusnibhu.
We descend to Tronshnl (1130 ft.), a little to the N. of which, by
Tryyyestdd, the Kebbedal (p. 197) opens to the left. Fine view of
the I'ibelstadnibba.
The road descends on the left bank of the Sundals-FAo^ the val-
ley of which soon contracts to a deep ravine. To the left opens the
MulskreddaL. Splendid view of the Sunelvsfjord and its mountains.
The road crosses the stream, which enters the lake in the form of
a waterfall, passes the church of Sunelven, and reaches —
1;? Kil. Hellesylt (*6Vand Hotel, Trygyestad's Hotel, both under
the same management, U. l'/2-2, R. or S. i^/^-i^/), D.l-l^/^, pens.
4-5'/-2 kr. ; Kngl. Cli. Serv. in July & Aug.), grandly situated at the
head of the *Sunelvsfjord, an arm of the Storfjord, on which large
steamers from Aalesund ply 5-6 times weekly. Rowing-boat from
Hellesylt to Marok iu 8-4 hrs. ('21 Kil.). — Vehicles usually await
the arrival of the steamers.
Ku(i>i Hei.i.ksvlt to the Stuvnsvanu. We drive up the valley to
the S.E., passiii',' the fine waterfalls Dene/os and Freitefos , to Bjerdal
and (1'2 Kil.) Vold-Saeter (quarters). For the rest of the route over the
Flofjeld (4 hrs.) a guide was f<irmerly necessary, who also mwed pas-
sengers over (he Nesievand and the StegoUrand ; now, however, there is
a new mad aloii^ the bank. We next pass the Aaiujelivand and descend
hy the 0vre Flo-Sailei' (i|uartcrs if need be) and the Nedre FloSwler to
Flo. on the Strynsvand (p. Ib9).
Fine view of Hellesylt and the falls of the Sundals-Elv (see
above) as we steam down the fjord. On tlie E. side of the fjord
towers the Noklceneb (4373 ft.). On the W. side we observe the
gaard of Ljeen, whence a road winds up the Ljaenlxikker (about
'2000 ft.) and crosses the Ljefjdd to Slyngstad (p. 201).
Opposite is the mouth of the *'''Geiranger Fjord, into which
we steer, notable for its picturesque cliffs and its numerous water-
falls. On the right, the Nokkeneb; on the slope to the left, the gaard
of Madvik. Farther on, to the right, are the gaards of Syllevik
and (above) lUombery and the mountains Lutdnlsnibbd (4835 ft.)
and Gjerkelandsegytn (4940 ft.); the Grautliorn (4425 ft.) rises on
the left. The fjord now contracts. On the N. side are seen the
Kn'iD^lhiafoii^c or Syi^ Seslre ('seven sisters'), falling over a per-
pendicular cliff into the fjord. Seven falls may be counted at the
very top, but four only are seen below. High up on the slope near
them is the gaard h'nin^flnii. Ab(uotheni rises the Ojeilfjeldlind
13»
196 R.26.-Maps,pp.l82,190. MAROK. From the Nordfjord
(5145 ft.), and farther on is the Gjeitfondegy (4800 ft.). From a
gorge on the S. bank emerges the Skaygeflaafos or Ojeitfbs, adjoin-
ing -which is the gaard oi Skaggeflaa (1640 ft.). An immense num-
ber of small waterfalls descend from the cliffs in early summer,
but many of them dry up in August. Some of them shower down in
spray, betraying their existence only by the streak of white foam
on the fjord below; others leap from overhanging cliffs in veil-like
form. When the tops of the cliflFs are clouded, the waterfalls seem
to come direct from the sky. Curious profiles on the rocks to the
right; above these, the Prakestol (pulpit). Opposite, to the left, is
the Gausdalsfos. Also to the left is the gaard oWrande, overtopped
by iheLaushorn (4911ft. ). As we nearMarok, we obtain a superb view
of the basin of Geiranger, dominated on the left by the Saathorn
(5835 ft.). High up on the right are the snow-fields of the Flydals-
horn. At the head of the fjord, about 20 Kil. from Hellesylt, lies —
Marok fA/ero/c, MtEraa/f^. — Hotels. 'Union Hotel, on tlie height above
the church and the foaming Storfos, ^/i M. from the pier; "Hotkl Geihangkk,
'/i M. from the pier, with view of the fj(jr(l. These two are under tlie
same management and have similar charges (R. 2, B. or S. I'/s, D- 2V4 kr );
carriages from the Union Hotel meet the steamers (the footpath to the left
of the church is shorter than the road). — Mekok's Inn, close to the pier,
plain, R., B., or S. 1 kr. each. — Hotel Udsigten (Bellevue), comfortable
on the road to Grotlid, 3 M. from the fjord and 1000 ft. above the sea,
conspicuous over the church-spire as the steamer approaches, R. IV2 kr.,
B. 1 kr. 20 0., D. 2, S. 1, pens. 5 kr. — English Church Service in July
and August.
Vehicles await the steamboat: to the Flydalsjuv and back (2 hrs.),
1 pers. 2, 2 pers. 3 kr. ; caleschvogn , 2-3 pers. 5, 4 pers. 6 kr. ; to the
Djupvashytie (17 Kil.), 1 pers. 4 kr. 42, 2 pers. 6 kr. 63 0. tthere and back
double fare) ; caleschvogn there and back, 2 pers. 2372, 3 pers. 26, 4 pers.
31 Vl' kr. ; caleschvogn to Hjelle i Stryn (p. 189) in two days, 55, 65 or 70 kr.
Marok is a small hamlet nestling round the head of the fjord
on an old moraine, commanded by a small church. Above it opens
the basin of Geiranger, through which ascends the road to Grotlid
(pp. 193-191). This is a good centre for excursions.
Those who start from Mamk in passing between Geiranger and Stryu
miss the striking view on the approach from the E. (p. 193) ; on the other hand
the ascending traveller sees the waterfalls of Ihe Geiranger basin to better
advantage, while in descending the Videdal farther on he has before him
the splendid panorama of the snow-mountains on the Strynsvand. As far as
the Djupvashytie (p. 192) driving takes as long as walking (4 brs.). Thence
to Grotlid is a drive of 2V2-3 hrs. Those who wish to reach Skaare or
Hjelle in one day (comp. p. 190) must start betimes from Marok and turn
to the right at the bifurcation 3 Kil. short of Grotlid (see p. 191).
Travellers who arrive and go on by steamer content themselves with
the *ExcuKsioN to tue Fltdalsdjuv (p. 193), a walk (there and back) of
21/2 hrs. The road should be followed both coming and going. Below
the Union Hotel is the Storfos, in which all the tributaries of the river
unite. Above the second bridge of the road ('Gjerde-Bro'), on this side
of the stone '100 m. over Havef, a rough path diverges to the left to the
Kleiva/os, a fall of the Vesteraas-Elv. There are other waterfalls at the
third bridge ('Flaa-Bro'). Beyond the fourth bridge ('Kope-Bro'), and
V2 M. beyond the stone '200 m. over Havef, a guide-post points to tlie
left towards the Slorsieterfos (a steep ascent of ^/t hr.). — The road
ascends, cros.'iing the 'lIole-Br<r at the Mok/os, to the Ilolel Udsiykii,
which commands the finest view of the Geiranger valley. A little lartlier
to Molde. NORANGDAL. Map,p.l82. — 26.R. 197
un, beyond the stone '300 m. over Havet', a finger-post indicates the way
to the right to FlydaUdjuvet (p. 193).
The "Vesteraasdal , the X. approach to the Geiranger hasin, hetween
the Laushorn and the Grindalshorn, also deserves a visit. We follow the
ahove-mentioned path passing the Stortaterfos to (1V2-2 hrs. from Marok)
the Stor-f^aeter (2132 ff.). Splendid view. — We may then ascend the valley
to the Vetteraci!s-ScB>er and mount the Kaldhuthakker to the S. end of a
small lake, from which we may visit the Vestevaasbras to the left. Then
either to the E. and down the Sletdnl to the Kaldhusdal, or to the K. down
the Berdal to the Hei-daUvand (1618 ft.) and Relling i Norddal (p. 200).
From the gaard oi Grande (p. 196) a steep hridle-path ascends (V*-! hr.)
the EidsdaUfJeld, widening into a road beyond the top of the hill, and
leading past the gaard ol Jndre Eide and the Eidsvand, abounding in fish,
to Ytkedal (p. 200; 12 Kil. from Indre Eide): a splendid walk of about
6 hrs., with grand views looking back on the Geiranger Fjord, and fine
mountain-scenery. (Guide unnecessary.)
Another fine e.xcursion is that to Skaggeflaa (p. 196; ca. 5 hrs.). We
row in 1 hr. to the Skaggejlaaneistet, whence the path ascends. Splendid
view at the top.
c. From Hellesylt through the Norangdal and by the
J«rundfjord to Aalesund.
A C'areiage Road (fast stations) runs from Hellesylt to (25 Kil., in about
3 hrs.) 0ie : skyds for 1 or 2 pers. 4 kr. 25 or 6 kr. 38 0. •, caleschvogn for 2, 3,
or 4 pers. 12, 14. or 16 kr. Steamer from .^ie to Aalesund four times a week
in 3^/4-4 hrs, (passengers for Seholt change boats at Hundeidvig, p. 200). —
From jB^ie to Aalsund via Sfeb0-0rstenvik in I-IV2 day; see pp. 198, 203.
This route leads throiigh the district of -Sandmare, which contains
some of the most varied scenery on the W. coast of Korway. The grand-
est parts are the Norangdal^ the A'orangs/jord, and the Jernndfjord.
From Hellesylt up to Tryggestad, a drive of 8/4 hr., see p. 195.
The road to 0ie turns to the N.W. and ascends the Nebbedal,
a pleasant green valley sprinkled with hirches. On the right rises
the Tryggestadnakken, separated by the Satredal from the abrupt
Fibelstadnib, which forms the background of the valley the whole
way. To the left is the lotig drawn-out Kvitegg, with a glacier em-
bedili'd among its peaks. To the N. rise the Smerskrcdtindcr
(p. 198).
10 Kil. Fibelstad-Haugen (121;) ft.; Hotel Norangsdal, plain
but very fair, a little to the left of the road), finely situated amid
the highest summits of the Kvitegg and the Fibelstadnib, on the
watershed between the Sunelvsfjord and the Jerundfjord, is a good
centre for mountaineering.
The ascent of the "Kvitegg (5590 ft.; 4-5 hrs ) is one of the finest in
S0ndm0re. Guides, Jon Klok and P. A. LHlebee, the schoolmaster (3-5 kr.).
From Fibelstad-Hacgen to Bjerke, on the J0rundfjord, a splendid
walk of about 5 hrs. (with guide): to the W. up the valley to the Kvit-
elvedalstkar on the N.W. side of the Kvitegg; then past the little Kvit-
eleedalsvand on its N. side, and down its brook to the ~ Tussevand (1970ft.),
where we get a view of the wild Hornindalsrokken (p. 194) ; round the
N. side of the lake, down the Tvise-Elv through a series of gorges, and
past the Tusse/os to Bjerke (p. 199).
At Fibelstad-Haugen begins the *Norangdal, one of the grand-
est and wildest valleys in Norway and well adapted for walking
(to 0ie 2'/2 hrs.). The now road follows the K. side of the valley.
198 h.2G. — Map.p.W-J. 0iK. Frum the NonI fjord
In front of us the valley appears closed by the SmOTskredtind, which
with its peaks and the glafier between them recalls the Wetterhorn
at Grindelwald. Several small lakes are passed. The brook sometimes
disappears under the rocks and the avalanche-snow, which lies in
the valley throughout the summer. The poor sseters are built into
ihe rocks for shelter from avalanches and stone-falls. In about 1 hr.
we come in sight of the curious peak of Slogen (see below), which
seems to alter its appearam^e as we proceed. The valley contracts.
The scenery is wildest by the perpendicular black cliff of *Staven
(over 4900ft.), at the fourth lake. The road crosses to the left bank.
The valley expands. The above-mentioned peaks re-appear.
To tlie left is the Kjeipen., the prolongation of Staven. The road
keeps to the left side of the valley, passing in front of the slopes of
the Smerskredtinder (p2iO ft.), ascended by Mr. Slingsby in 1884.
To the left are the Mkldagshom (4353ft.) and the Blaahorn; in the
distance, the Saksa (p. 199).
In about 2hrs. after leaving Fibelstad-Haugen we reach <S'fei//-
stad, the highest gaard in the valley, lying at the foot of the Mid-
dagshorn. The road crosses to the right bank. From the bridge we
have a retrospect of the sharply cut ridge of the Skruven (5285 ft.),
with large snow-fields on its flanks. The fjord now comes into view.
It is a walk of 1/4 hr. from the bridge to the Union Hotel.
14Kil. (pay for lb) 0ie(*Union Hotel, R. li/o-^, B. I1/2, 1>- 2-
274, S. 11/0 kr.; Phenix, unpretending, 1/3 M. from the steamboat-
pier), at the E. end of the Nor angs fjord, occupies a beautiful and
sheltered situation and is a good centre for excursions. On both
sides of the valley and fjord rise imposing mountains : Slogen
(summit not visible from 0ie itself) and the Middagshorn ; then
(right) the Kloksegg and (left) the Blaahorn (4500 ft.). On the E.
the valley is closed by the Skruven (see above), with its snow-fields.
To the W., the Saksa, with its singular notch from top to bottom ;
beyond the Jerundfjord are the jagged Gratdalstinder, near the
Bonddal (p. 204).
The ascent of *Slogen (5210 ft.) is strongly recommended to robust
mountaineers ffrom 0ie 4 hrs., with guide; Jon Kick and Peder Haugen).
The view, called by Mr. Slingsby one of the noblest in Europe, embraces
the whole of the Alpine district ofS0ndm0re and is often preferred to the
Jolunheim views (p. 146).
A grand but fatiguing route leads from Skylstad (see above) between
Slogen and the Smerskredtinder over the pass of Skyhtadhrekken (2592 ft.).
and either to the N.E. to Stranden (p. 201), or to the N.W. by the gaard
of Brunstad in the Velledal down to Aure (p. 202).
On the days when there is no steamer, we may go on by water
skyds to (10 Kil.) Scebe (p. 190) and thence by land-skyds (a magnificent
drive) to (24 Kil.) 0rsteni-ik (p. 203), whence a steamer plies four times
weekly to Aalesund.
The **Norangsfjord is an arm of the Jerundfjord and resembles
it in its Alpine character. On leaving 0ie we see the Elgenaafos
on the left; then the gaards of Ste7in(fs in an exposed situation
under the Staalhcrg (4138 ft.); and on the right, at the mouth of the
to Molde. JHIiUNDFJOIJD. Mup.'p. WJ. — -J6 .R. 1^)9
f/rfcerf«<, the gaards of Urke (steamboat-station). In the (Ustaiicc
rise tlie snow-clad peaks of the Vellesaterhorn (p. 202). To the W.,
above Urke, towers the Sdksn (3445 ft.), which with the Staalbcrg
forms the entrance to the Norangs^ord. Behind ns is the Slogen.
The **Je'ruiidfjord, which the steamer now enters, differs iu
character from the otlier fjords. Instead of being a deep cutting in
the great Norwegian plateati, with nearly upright sides, it is flanked
with picturesque ranges and peaks, some of them remarkably bold
and pointed, others isolated between deep gaps or notches ('Skard'),
and clad with snow and glaciers near their summits. Viewed by
evening-light the effect is singularly beautiful.
The S. or upper part of the Jerundfjord is visited by the steamer
thrice a week. On its W. bank is the gaard of Skaare, with the
'Fos' of that name, at the foot of the Skaaretinder ; and on its E.
bank, to the S. of the Jagta (5240 ft.), lies the gaard of Viddal,
a steamboat-station. At the S. end of the narrowing fjord, high
above the water, lies Bjerke (Hotel Sendmere), the terminus of the
steamer. Above it rise the Bjerkehorn (4445 ft.) and the Tusscnut
(4203 ft.). Near it is the Tussefos (p. 197), descending from the
Tussevand in three stages. Jacob Bjerke is a good guide.
A road (slow stations) leads from Bjerke up the Sjaustaddal, by lUiv-
slacl and Rueid^ to (15 Kil.) Kaldvatn (p. 194) and (8 Kil.) Farde (quarlera
at D. Maaii^s), on the idstefjord, the S.E. arm of the Voldenfjord. (To
Volden, 18 Kil., by boat; p. 203.) From E0r.$tad (see above) the Siorhcrn
(5180 ft.) may be ascended in 6 hrs.
On other days the steamer, on leaving the Norangsfjord, steers
towards the W, bank of the Jerundfjord, over which towers the
jagged Slorhorn (see above), adjoined by the Skaaretinder. It then
passes the Jlustadnas (on the bank a little S. of which is Raa-
mandsgjelet, a cavern in the rock Raamand) and reache.s —
Siebe (skyds-station, good quarters), with the church oi Jerund-
fjord , in a small bay, at the mouth of the well-tilled Bonddal
(p. 204), the background of which is formed by the Velrhaldtn
(p. 204). On the N. tower the Mienddlstindtr and the GretdaUlinder.
A grand view is enjoyed of the S. arm of the lake, with the snow-
fields of the Kvitegg and Tussenut (see above) in the background.
The scenery of the N. part of the Jcrund fjord is seen at its
grandest as we approach Store StandaL (steamboat-station), at the
mouth of the valley of that name (p. 203), on the N. side of which
rise the glacier- studded A'oif/astmder (4470 ft.), while to the S.
are the vast snow-flelds of the SelvkalLen. To the N. towers the
Standalshorn. Another grand view is obtained of the LiUe Standal,
with the serrated snow-clad ridge of the Romedalshorn. resembling
the Aiguilles of Mt. Blanc. In the background are tlie Tre Seslre.
— Comp. the Map, p. 204.
On the v.. bank of the fjord, opposite Standal, rises the impos-
ing Molaupsfjeld, named after the gaard Molaup at its N. base.
Near It is the cavern Truldgjel, where a phenomenon similar to
200 R.26. — Maps,pp.l82,204. SYLTE. From the Nord fjord
that on the Lysefjord has been observed (p. 94). Farther down
the same side is the Sleitefjeld. On the W. side rises the cloven
Jenshorn (4715 ft.), with a glacier in the depression, and on the
same side is the station of Saltere. The steamer then crosses the
mouth of the Jarundfjord, affording in clear weather a final survey
of the fjord in its entire length (36 Kil.), extending to the snow-
flelds of the Skaaretinder, and calls at Hundtidvig. where it connects
twice a week with the boats to Seholt and Marok (comp. p. 202).
We now steer due W., past the large island of Sule, to Paste
and follow the route described at p. 202 to Aalesund (8^/4-4 hrs.
from 0ie).
d. From Marok and Hellesylt vi&, Sjaholt to Aalesund or Molde,
Stkamer from Marok to HjehoH in 4'/2 lirs. (fare 5 kr. C'Of<.); I0 Aale-
sund in G'/s-ll hrs. (fare 8kr. 70 0.). — From SJ0hoU to (26 Kil.) Veslnoes
Road with fast stations. From Vestnses to Molde Steamer in 1 hr. (fare
2 kr. ; see p. 206).
Marok (Oeiranger Fjord), see p. 196. The steamer returns from
Marok to the Sunelvsfjord, generally calling again at Hellesylt be-
fore steering towards the N. Of the huge mountains flanking the
fjord the chief are the Aakerncesfjeld (5043 ft.) on the W., projecting
far into the fjord, and the Nonsfjeld and Snushorn on the E. On
the E. side are several gaards and a few waterfalls.
From the Sunelvsfjord, the entrance to which is marked by the
Oksncps on the W. and the Skrenak on the E., most of the steamers
turn to the E. into the Norddalsfjord, the innermost arm of the
Storfjord (p. 202). On the N. bank lie the gaards of Li and
Overaa. On the S. bank is the rock called St. Olafs Snushorn.
The lirst station (2 hrs. from Hellesylt) is —
Ytredal, at the mouth of the valley of that name. (Route to the
Geiranger Fjord, see p. 197.) The next station is Relling, with the
Norddalskirke, whence the wild Torvleisa (5995 ft.), a grand point
of view, may be ascended in 5 hrs.
Sylte (Ounnar Orenning setter's Inn, good; Deving), with the
church of Muri, lies on the N. bank. A curious vein of light
quartz in a rock here is called St. Olafs Slange or Syltormen. To
the E. rises the Heggurdalstind.
Fkom Stlte ovek the Stegafjeld to the Romsdal, an interesting
route of l'/2 day, or 1 day by driving to Langdal. The road ascends the
old moraine of Langhrelhen. At the top of the hill is a cross in memory
of St. Olaf, who in 1028 fled from Sylte to Lesje in the Gudbrandsdal
(p. xlvii). The road then ascends the Valdai^ passing several pleasant
gaards, which attract summer-visitors from Aalesund. At Jlem, a gaard
12 Kil. from Sylte, horses and carioles may be obtained. Beyond Rem
we cross the stony chaos of Skjoersurden. At (11 Kil. farther on) the gaard
of langdal (poor quarters) a guide may be obtained (unnecessary for the
experienced). The road ends at J0vre Stel, 2 Kil. farther on. We ascend on
foot through the Meierdal, first on the left and then on the right bank
(crossing, not by the first wooden bridge, but liy a stono bridge not at
first visible from the path), to the pass of the Stegafjeld, where we get
a splendid survey of the Eomsdalshorn, the Vengetinder, the Konge, and
lo Molde. S0HOLT. Maps,pp. 190.204. — 26. R. 201
the Dronning, with the (jord in the distance to the N. Bcj'Dnd this the
path, indicated by varder, crosses the fjeld, over snow at places, crossing
bridgeless brooks and skirting several small lakes. We then turn N.E.
to the Isterdal, descend the Slegarie (a curimis zigzag path), and pass the
'■ Jsler/os, several hundred feet high, commanding a line view of the Isferdals-
fjeld to the left and the W. side of the Troldtinder (p. 209) to the right.
In about 6 hrs. from Langdal we reach the Knnd-Smter and in 1 hr. more
the Sogge-Sceter. Beyond this we may either turn to the left to (2hr8.)
Veblungsnres, or to the riyht to the gaard of Sogge and cross the bridge
to the Eomsdal road (p. 20S).
From Sylte we may also visit the "Tafjord (by rowing-boat; or, once
a week, by steamer), the easternmost bay of the Norddalsfjord, very grand,
though inferior to the Geiranger. On the left is a fine waterfall; on the
same side, farther on, is the '-Muldalsfos, to which a footpath ascends.
The upper part only is seen from the fjord. This superb fall is 500 ft.
high. The steamer turns here. We may, however, row through a strait into
a mountain-basin. A waterfall on the right rebounds from a projecting
rock, which divides it into two. In the background is the village of Ta-
fjord (11 Kil. from Sylte; poor quarters), on the hill above which, to the
right, are iron-mines owned by an English company. Lofty snow-mountains
peer over the banks on every side.
From the gaard of Mul'dal to Stuefloten in the Eomsdal, see p. 210.
— From Tafjord a bridle-path ascends slowly, through fine and at places
superb scenery, and generally .skirting the foaming torrent, to (2'/2 hrs.)
the chalet at the Kaldhus- Salter (p. 192), whence mountain-paths lead to
the Djvpvashyite (p. 192) and to Qrotlid (p. 191).
From Sylte we steer to the W. to the 'Bygd' of Linge, with its
pretty gaards, and the Liabygd. To the left, a grand view of the
Sunelvsfjord up to Hellesylt. The steamer then crosses to —
Stranden (quarters at K. Olsens, P. Ous's, and in the gaard of
Ringstad), with its church, adjoining the steamboat-station iSii/'^?"
stad, pleasantly situated at the mouth of the Strandedal.
The fjord, here sometimes called Strandefjord or Slyngsfjord,
continues beautiful. Rounding the prominent StordaUn<Ts ov Hol-
men ., the vessel steers into the small Stordalsvik, with the gaards
of Hove and Vinje, at the entrance to the pretty Stordal. Once a
week it touches at Vagsvik, whence v^e may ascend the Laupare
(4754 ft.). Opposite, a little to the W., lies Sjevik.
We now round the Gaus7i^s and (3'/2"4^ lirs. from Sylte) reach —
Sverholt, or SjehoU (^Rasmussens Hotel, a large and well-appoint-
ed new building, R. 2, B. or S. ll/o, D- ^1/4 kr.: Th. Sjeholt Enkes
Hotel; Engl. Ch. Serv. in July & Aug.), pleasantly situated at the N.
end of the 0rskogvik, on a small river which here flows into the
fjord and separates it from the church of 0rskog, at the base of the
Lifjeld (which may be ascended in II/2 hr.). To the N.E. rises
the Snaufjeld (2880 ft.), and to the S., over the Gausnaes, peer
the mountains on the opposite bank of the fjord (sec p. 202).
Road to A.m.ksund, 38 Kil. (a drive of 5-G hrs.). Stations: (13 Kil.)
Flaate or Flolc, (13 Kil.) Tiedsat, and (14 Kil.) Aalesvnd (comp. p. 202).
The steamer next touches at the small wooded Langskibse, in
a bay between the mainland and the Okseiw. The narrowest part
of this hay is crossed by the road to Aalcsiind mentioned above. We
then steer to the S. across the fjord, here for a short distance called
202 R.'J6.— Map.p. 204. AALESUND. Fruin the \ordfjurd
Nordfjord, and then Storfjord. In the wider sense the latter name
embraces the whole fjord as far as Sylte (p. "ZOO). We steer round
the Aursnces to —
Aure or Sekkelven (quarters at Marl. Vik's, the LandhaiidlerJ on
the Sekkelvsfjord., prettily situated amidst grand scenery. Steering
in, we see the Hammersattinder rising above Aure on the left; to
the right of them is the pointed Stremshorn (3240 ft.); then the
Brunstadhorn, the Gjeithorn, the VeUesceterhorn (4750 ft.), and the
Ringdalslind, some of them flecked with snow.
The fiillowing is a beautiful day's *Excursion. As Aure and tbe
other places are slow station-^, a vehicle tor the whole trip should be
engaged at Aure. From Aure we drive to the E. to (11 Kil.) SJevik (p. 201);
then S. through the Ramsladdal to the (12 Kil.) Ny-Saeter (quarters), on the
Nysatervand or Norvand (1245 ft.), whence the J0seskar (^WiQh.\ fine view)
is easily ascended. We next cross a hill to the Velledal , in which Drot-
ning/iaug, its highest gaard, is 6 Kil. from the Ny-Sseter. Magnificent view,
in descending, of the snow-mountains above mentioned. Then past the gaard
of Velle, where the valley bends to the N., to (13 Kil.) Slremmegjcerdef,
at the S. end of the S0kkelvsfjiird, whence, if preferred, a rowing-boat
may he taken to (6 Kil.) Aure.
On the W. side of the Sekkelvsfjord towers the Skopshurn
(4430 ft.). Then, on the Storfjord, come the stations of Tusvik, on
the S., and Embleim or Emblem, on the N. We next steer to the E.
of the large island of Sale and enter the narrow Vegf'und, with a
station of the same name. [Steamers voyaging in the reverse
direction proceed from Vegsund to Hundeidvig (on the S.), where they
connect twice a week with the boats of the Jerundfjord line (p. 200.)]
We then cross the Borgundfjord, whence the church mentioned on
p. 203 is visible, and. after touching at the Buholm Quay on the S.,
steam round the Aspe to the Skande Quay, in the harboiir of Aalesund.
Aalesund. — Hotels. *Schieldrop's Hotel (Sch. on the Plan, p. 204),
i/jM. from the pier, R. 1V2-3, B. I'/a, D- (2 p.m. ; coffee included) 2, S. IV2 kr. ;
Grano Hotel (PI. g), well spoken of; Skandixavie (PI. Sk.), Stor-(>aden,
farther from the harbour, R. 2-4, B. or S. IV2, D- 2 kr., well spoken of. —
Baths on the Asp0. — Post Office, Notenses- Gaden, 350 yds. beyond
Schieldrop's Hotel; Telegraph Office, Stor-Gaden. — Llotd's Agent,
Mr. L. A. Devoid.
Aalesund, a busy trading town with 11,800 inhab., lies on the
Nerve (E.) and the Aspe (W.), two islands on the outer fringe of
the 'Skjccrgaard', a favourable situation to which it owes its rapid
rise. It was only in 1824 that it came into notice as a harbour, and
only in 1848 that it became a town. Aalesund is the commercial
centre of the whole region of the Storfjord (see above), and for the
cod-flsheries of the W. -banks', particularly the famous 'Fiskeplads'
Storeggen, the yield of which is 5-6 million kr. per annum. The
harbour, which opens towards the N.W., lies between the two is-
lands and is protected by Skandsen, a peninsula of the Nerve, on
one side, and by a pier on the other. The narrowest part of this
strait, the Aalesund, from which the town takes its name> is crossed
by a bridge connecting the two parts of the town. On the Nerve
('indom Sundct') are the custom-house, the inns, etc., and on the
to Molde. 0KSTENV1K. .17<;;..p. /«:?. — I'ft. «. 203
Asper ('udoni Suiidct) are the church and the soliool. On the E.
side of the Nerve quarter is a pretty Park, with a pavilion (rfmts.)
and views of the distant peaks of Sendmere. A more extensive view
is obtained from the *Anlesundsaxla (509 ft.), 1 hr. there and hack.
We leave the park by Its rear (N.) gate and follow the well-
kept path, which skirts tlie base of the rocky hill, passes a cemetery,
and leads to (9 min.) some steps, where we ascend to the right
and follow the ravine. — A new road leads along the fjord to the S.E.
of the Nerv0 and in the direction of Seholt (p. 201), passing the
pretty villas of the Aalesund merchants and affording a fine view of
the mountains of Sendmere. A little to the S. of this road, 6 Kil.
from Aalesund, Is the church otBorymid, founded in the 11th cent.,
restored in 1869 (cariole 2, gig 3, carr. and pair 6 kr.). Near it once
lived Hrolf Gangr f 'Rolf the Ganger'), the conqueror of Normandy.
The Steamboat Tkaffic of Aalesund is considerable. The coasting
steamers of the Bergen and Trondhjem line (pp. 175, 178), and the S0ndni0re
steamers to Hellesylt and the Geiranger Fjord (p. 195), to the Jerundfjord
(p. 199), and to Molde and the Komtdal (pp. 204-206) are mentioned in other
parts of the Handbook.
From Aalesund to Kiu.'aa and Aahjem (steamboat twice a week). We
.steer past the island of //esse;/ (p. 177), round theE. extremity of the Sule^ and
enter the fiule/jord, which lies between the .Sul0 on the E. and the island
of Ilfireidkmdet on the W. On the latter, the hills of which attain a height
iif 2360 ft., are the stations of Brandal^ Hcreide^ and Liavaag. We next
strike across the Varldahfjovd to Vartdal, and steer towards the S., passing
the LiadaWiorn (3510 ft.), to the J0rstenfjord, at the head of which (3 hrs.
from Aalesund) lies —
0rstenvik (Svendsen's Hotel, comfortable; slow station), at the mouth
of the well-cultivated (frstendal or Aamdal, watered by the J0rsten-Elv.
To the N. rises the Smidehorn (4330 ft. ; easy ascent, 5-6 hrs. there and
back), commanding a fine view of the S0ndm0re Mts. Another point of
view is the Melshorn (2740 ft.; a much shorter ascent). From jB'rstenvik
to the J0rundfjord, see below.
From 0rstenvik to Volden by road (11 Kil.), a drive of I'Ahr.; the
steamer, rounding the peninsula between the 0rstenfjord and the Volden-
fjord, takes l'/4-2 hrs. — Volden (Ncess's Hotel) lies near the slow skyds-
station of Redsoet (good quarters), on the E. bank of the Voldenfjord.
Route to the J0rundfjord, see below.
Then, several small stations, beyond which, once a week, the steamer
goes on to Eidtaa on the Sevdefjord a.n& Aahjem on the Vanelvsfjord (p. 177;
5'/4-5'/2 hrs. from Volden).
The "Koads to the J^kundfjokd from ^rstenvik and from Volden
form the finest approaches to it from Aalesund. Valleys with rich vege-
tation; mountains strikingly picturesque. — From J0frstenvik the old road
leads by (10 Kil.) Vatne and through the Bnnddal (p. 204). The new
road leads through the FoUestaddal. Both roads first ascend the beauti-
ful 0rstendal, in view of a fine mountain-background, to the gaard A<iv\
(5 Kil. from 0rstcnvik), at the mouth of the "FoUestaddal. We ascend the
latter, keeping in view of the grand Kolaatfinder (p. 199), whence a glacier
dips to the E. At the gaard Kolaas (8 Kil. farther on) the Romedal diverges
to the left. From Kolaas we ascend the SlandaUeid ; at the top we get a
splendid "View of the Kolaastind behind and the peaks of the Jerrundfjord
before us. Then down the Standal to (8 Kil.) Store Standal (steamboat
station; no quarters; p. 199). Lastly, row to Sa'b0, 8 Kil.
From Volden the road crosses the lofty Klavdalseid (984 ft.), and at
the gaard Brautes'rl joins the road from f^rstenvik via Aam (sec above),
at the N. end of the W'tne-Vand, the E. bank of which it skirts.
204 Route 27. MOLDE.
13 Kil. Talne. Then uphill, and past the gaard Osvold, at the mouth
of the Bjerdal, to the pass (920 ft.), where the J0rundfjord Bits, come in
sight. Next down the Bonddal, flanked by the Veirhalden (4013 ft.) and
the Oretdalstind on. the left, and the Aavsethorn (4498 ft.) and Storhom
(4490 ft.) on the right, and past several gaards. By the gaard Htisfad, on
the Stnrliorn, high up on the right, is the ravine St. Olafsdal.
14 Kil. (pay for 19, in the reverse direction for 20) Uiae (gnod station),
'/4 hr. beyond which is the steamboat-station Smbei (p. 199). Row to 0ie
(p. 198; 10 Kil.; order boat as early as possible).
From SernoLT to Molde. — A good supply of carriages generally
meets the steamer (p. 200; fare to Vestnaes, 1 pers. 4 kr. 42,
2 pers. 6 kr. 63 ».). The road ascends the 0rskogdal, finally gaining
a moorland plateau with a small lake. The numerous huts are so-
called Loer for sheltering the hay; the long poles are to mark the
route in winter. The highest point is reached 8 Kil. from Seholt,
and 2 Kil. farther on, beyond the boundary between l'>ergens-Stift
and Trondhjems-Stift, is the tourist-hut of 0rskogsfjeldet (coffee,
'brus'). We then descend the Skorgedal.
15 Kil. Ellingsgaard (675 ft.). To the right is the Brustind, to
the left the Ysttinder. The valley becomes less dreary. At Viken the
road reaches the picturesque Tresfjord, the W. bank of which it
skirts, passing several gaards. We cross a bridge over the mouth
of the narrow Misfjord and reach —
11 Kil. Vestnces (p. 206; 31/4 hrs.' drive from Seholt), whence
steamers ply once or twice daily to Molde and to the Romsdal.
27. Molde and the Moldefjord.
Arrival. The main pier adjoins the Hotel Alexandra, while carriafies
from the Grand Hotel meet the steamers. The fjord-steamers land not far
oir, at the Torv, and also at the Grand Hotel.
Hotels: 'Grand Hotel, finely situated at the E. end of the town, with
baths, E. 21/2-7, B. IV2, D. (2 p.m.; with coffee) 23/4, S. ii/2kr.; English
spoken. "Hotel Alexandra, at the W. end of the town, with baths, R.
11/2-5, B. 11/2, D. (wtth coffee) 2V2, S. IV2 kr. — S^strene Holm (PI. H),
good, but without view, R., B., or S. 1, D. li/2kr. ; Sofie Plath's Hotel
& Pension, Andersen's Private Hotel, both in the main street; S0Strene
Eide's Pension, to the E. of the chemists, in the direction of the Grand
Hotel. — When the hotels are full, travellers may content themselves with
a visit to the Rekneshaug and push on to Aandalsnpes (p. 207) as soon as
possible.
Sea Baths, 1/4 M. to the W. of the Hotel Alexandra (25 0., towel 7 0. ;
reserved for ladies 9-11.30 and 2-5). — Post & Telegraph Offices in the
main street (see Plan). — British Vice- Consul, Mr. P. F. Dahl. — English
Church Service in summer at the parish-church.
Steamers to Bergen and to Trondhjein , each about 11 times a week,
to Aalesund 17 times (incl. the Bergen steamers) ; to places on the Molde-
fjord, see pp. 206, 210. — Careful enquiry should be made as to the hours
and places of departure. — A small steamer named 'Bols^en' is let out
for 60 kr. per day.
Molde, a thriving little town of 1600 inhab., which dates back
to the 15th cent., is pleasantly situated on the N. bank of the
Moldefjord, at the foot of green slopes backed by higher bills.
Its trade is now insignificant, but it is a great summer-resort.
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Being sheltered from the N. and W. storms, the vegetation is
surprisingly luxuriant, though Molde is nearly 3" of latitude to
the N. of St. Petersburg. Roses abound, and some of the houses
are overgrown with honeysuckle. Mingling with the pine and the
birch are seen horse-chestnuts, limes, ashes, and cherry-trees. —
The Church contains a picture by Axel Ender, representing the
Women at the Sepulchre.
The great attraction of Molde is the noble survey it commands
of the wide expanse of the fjord and the long chain of mountains
to the S. and S.E., with their rocky peaks and snow-decked sides.
The most picturesque point of view is the *Reknesliaug ( 2G0 ft.),
a hill laid out in promenades to the N.W. of the town, to which
we may ascend from the Alexandra Hotel in ^^hv., or from the
Grand Hotel by the upper road, crossing the Molde-Elv and passing
the (ihurch, in 20 minutes. At the top is a pavilion, with a mountain
indicator. In the foreground lies the town, at the foot of green
hills, beyond which stretches the beautiful fjord, broken by the
long islands of Gjerte, Sretere, and Faar/e. Our Panorama, though
taken from a slightly higher standpoint, will serve to identify the
heights in the background.
Between the Humle Have (a pretty private garden) and the
Rekneshaug a bridle-path, indicated by a finger-post 'til Varden'
and by a second 6 min. farther on (where we turn to the right
through a white fence), ascends past a refreshment -stall with a
flagstaff to the (1 hr.) top of the *Moldeliei (1350 ft.), with a
lefuge-hut (not always open) and a huge vane. The view is more
extensive but less picturesque than that from the Rekneshaug.
About 5 min. to the W. of the hut is a stone 'varde', with benches
commanding a view of the open sea.
A charming walk may be taken along the avenue leading to
the W. from the Alexandra Hotel, past the garden of Reknes, a
liospital for consumptives. Still finer is the avenue leading to the E.
from the Grand Hotel. This passes the old Molde- Gaard (r.) and
skirts the *Fanestrand or Funneslrund, where the rich vegetation
of Molde is seen to advantage. The road is shaded with birches,
ashes, maples, larches, and other trees, and is flanked with pleasant
gaards, villas, and gardens (among which is Consul Johnson's Buen
Retiro, IV2 M. from the Grand Hotel; visitors admitted). About
1 M. farther on is the consumptive hospital of Legrovik. All the
way we enjoy a fine view, towards the S., of the fjord and the distant
mountains. Continuation of the road, see p. 210.
To the N.E. of Molde rises the Tusten (2285 ft.; 3 hrs. ; guide ad-
visable). At the bridge on the upper road, on the left bank of the Molde-
Elv (see above), is a red, white, and blue guide-post, showing the Way to the
Tusten. This jjasses the match-factory of Elvhakkm. After 5 miu. a foot-
path leads to the right, passing other guide-posts, to [}U hr.) a small house
on the right. Here we ascend to the left and then (0 min.) to the right,
over meadows mid through brushwoud. In -1 miu. more we cross to the
left bank of a brook, where a clearing alVords an open view of the Ijord.
20Q R.27.— Map,p.204. VESTN.E.S. Mnldefjord.
We then pass below a cattle-shed, where our path is joined (i'.) by a
cart-ti-ack from Fanestrand. We pass through a gate and bear to the right
(marshy at places). In 25 min. we reach the top of the first lidge. Hence
we go straight on (flnger-posts) towards the top of the Tusten, now visible
in the distance; part of the route is marshy. The path next bears to the
left, passing several peat-bogs, crosses another ridge, and reaches (20 min.)
the lower of two small lakes. Passing the E. end of this, we follow a
stony path through thin wood, and, instead of skirting the upper lake,
ascend to the right, straight towards the (I'/z hr.) summit. Very extensive
view, embracing the fjord and the mountains to the N., E., and S., and
the vast Atlantic to the W.
To THE Tkoldkikke, a day's excursion from Molde by carriage (stol-
kjwrre there and back G, 2 pers. 9 kr. ; carr. and pair 12-14 kr.). We ascend
the Aaredal, which diverges from the Fanestrand (line retrospect of the
Moldefjord from the top of the hill), and then descend through iho Malme-
(lal to the Maime/jord and the skyds-station of (20 Kil.) Julsat. We then
ascend again and farther on leave the Indrc Fneiien road to the left. At
the gaard of Varhol (5-6 Kil. from Julsat, a drive of 4 hrs. froju Molde)
we obtain a guide and torches for a visit ('2'/---'i lirs.) to the '-Troldkirke,
a cavern in a brilliautlv white vein of limestone in the Teeifjelde^ 70-80 vds.
long, 7-10 ft. wide, and 7-22 ft. high.
a. Excursion to the Bomsdal.
Steamboat from Molde (o Aandctlsnws (or Nws) in 2'/2-5 hrs. (fare
2 kr.-5 kr. 30 0.). The last part of the voyage is magnificent. — Road from
Aandalsnies to the Rvmsdal. The walk from Aaudalsn*s to (27 Kil.) Flat- ■
mark and the drive back (3 hrs.) form a pleasant day's outing. Those who
aie short of time may content themselves with a walk to Ilorgheiin (p. 209).
Instead of taking the direct steamer to AandalsnKS, we may go by
another to Alfarnces or to Lcereim. and proceed thence to Aandalsnees via
Tliorvik (comp. p. 212). — Mountain-passes between the Romsdal and (he
I'.ikisdal, see pp. 208, 214.
The vessel steers to the S., affording a fine view of the mountains,
backed, at the head of the Tresfjord, by the Laupare (p. '201), with
a huge snow-field iu the depression. In 1 hr. we reach —
Vestnees(//o(ei Festno's, V4M. from the pier, tolerable, U. li/^kr.),
on the W. side of the entrance to the Tresfjord, a deep bay set in
wooded hills and bare rocky peaks. The road to Seholt begins here
(p. 201). A steamer ascends the Trestjord, twice a week, to Viken
and Sylte (whence a road up the KcersrAmsddl leads to Vagsvik on
theStorfjord, 17 Kil. ; p. 201), and down by Dougstad and Vikebugt.
We steer to the E., past Gjermundnces, with an agricultural
school on a hill, commanding a good view of the snow-clad Ystinder.
To the left is the island of Scekken, on which lies VesUid (called at
twice weekly). Fine view up the Langfjord, with the Skaala on
its N.W. bank (p. 210). On the right, the populous Vudgestrand,
with its white church, and the station Ecestadhygd. The Blaatind
(p. 207) is not visible from the steamer. The view aliead is now
very picturesque. To the E. towers the wooded Oksen (2674 ft.);
to the right of it, in the distance, appear the furrowed Veiigetinder,
and then the Store Troldtind (with its large snow-lield), Kongen,
and Drouiiiiigen. Some of the steamers enter a small bay at tlie
foot of the Oksen and call at Nordvik, wlience a road, passing the
church of Eid, crosses to the Kiwdvenfjord (p. 211).
Mnldefjnrd. AANDALSN.flS. Afap,p.204.—27. R. 207
The view becomes grainier and grander. On the 8. bank rise
the Troldslole {^3714 ft.), chief of which is St. OLafs-Stol, with a
'Botn' enclosed by two hills. Several of the steamers next call at
Void, with its new timber church, situated at the mouth of the
fertile Maandal, backed by the Troldtind and Nonstind with their
snow-flelds.
We steer past the mouth of the *Indfjord, with its superb
mountain-backsroiind (Isterdalsfjeldene, ]>. '201); un the H this
fjord is bounded by the Skolten (3440 ft.), with a waterfall. A fine
view of the Smerhotlenfjeld (3765 ft.) is disclosed to the N., and,
to the S., of the Romsdal Mts.: the Vengetinder, the Kalskraafjeld
(p. 209), looking disproportionately small in the distance, with its
glacier, and tlie fissured Romsdalshoni. These mountains average
nearly double the height of those of Wales and Westmorland.
Veblungsnses {Romsdal Hotel, unpretending), situated at the
foot of the Sietnesfjeld (3900 ft.), to the S. of the influx of the
Raumn into the Komsdalsfjord, is now much less important as an
entrance to the Romsdal than Aandalsnses, though carriages still
meet the steamers. To the E. of the village is the church of Oryten,
an o(;tagonal timber building. Just beyond it tlie road forks : the
branch to the left, crossing a long bridge, leads to the Komsdal ;
that to the right leads past the houses of Sietna;s to a military
camp and rifle-range.
Tlie steamer passes the broad mouth of the Rauma, affording
a tine view of the Romsdal, and steers round the promontory on
its N. side (with glimpse of the Isfjord) to —
Aandalsnses. — (Ikanu-Hotkl Bkllkvuk, a large Louse on a height,
5 mill, from the pier, of the first rank, with baths anil fine views on
every side; English siioken. — Romsdai.suok>j Hotkl, nearer the pier, un-
pretending but very lair, R. I'/a, B. or S. 1'/;, U- (2-3 p.m ) 2 kr. — HoTior,
ilKLUKNA;s, on the Kouisilal road, 2 M. frcjm tlu; pier (p. 208), owned by
an lingli.fh company and recently enlarged and improved, with lawn-
tennis courts, etc., recommended for a stay of some time R. '2'/'.!, B. or
S. IV2, D- 272 kr.
Conveyances await the steamboats (Tarifl' 1) The fares on the cards
shown by the driver include the return; thus, to Horgheini (p. 21)9) and
back, cariole 5. stolkjirrie 7, carr. and-pair 19 kr.
GuiDKS. Mathias SiKjijimoen and Erik Nordhagm of Gryten (see above).
Aandalsmvs, usually called Nces or Nes, situated on the pictur-
esque, mountain-girdled Isfjord (steamer several times weekly), to
the N. of the mouth of the Rauma^ is the chief approach to the
Romsdal and well suited for a prolonged stay. The nearest height
is the Mjelviifjeld, the N.W. spur of which is also called Nasaxlen.
Farther ofl' is tlie Storhest. To the right of the Najsa\el we look up
tiie liomsdal with the Vengetinder, Roinsdalshorn, and Troldtinder,
and to the right of these into the Isterdal (p. 201) and towards the
S.ttnestjeld; to the W. rise the Troldstole (see above) and tht;
l^laatind (3900ft.); to the N. the lieights of the lilaafjeld ; to the
K., in the distance, the Ojiiratind and other Eikisdal peaks.
208 R.^7. — Map.p.W4. ROMSDAL, Moldefjord.
Excursions. To the Romsdal^ see below. — Along the road on the S.
bank of the Iffjord to (5 Kil.) <S7«n, the terminus of the Rnmsdal steamer.
On this walk, which may be curtailed if necessary, we enjoy strand views
of the Strandheia (2590 ft. 1, Bredvikhna (2S35 f(.), Storttimjen (3445 ft.), and
other mountains in the backisround of the tjord. — To the "Isterdal, as far
as the Isterfos, and up the Stiyane to the Stegafjeld (p. 201). — Row to
Thorvik (p. 212; boat-skyds; 3 hrs. there and back), and in 1 hr. ascend
a fine point of view above the Gjerssetvatu.
From Aandalsn.ks to 0veraas on the Eikisdalsvand, a walk of 7-8 hrs.,
parts of it somewhat trying, especially in wet weather. We drive by skyds
along the S. bank of the Isfjord, pass Sten (see above), and reach the E.
end of the fjord. Here we cross the Isa-Elv or Hens-Elv, on the right bank
of which (to our left) lies the church of Hen. Hence a hilly road leads
up the well-cultivated Gr/avdal, parsing the gatirds of Kavli and Unheim.
To the right we have a line view of the Vetigedal, the Vengetinder, and
(to the rijiht of the last) the Romsdalshorn. In front are the abrupt
Moaiiebba and the ^So'ternelba. The road ends (a drive of i'/4 hr. from Nte.s)
at the gaard of —
15 Kil. ([lay for 17) Grevdal, the owner of which (Ed. Gr0vdal) acts
as guide (to the Meringdals-S»tre 4-5 kr ). — As seen from Gr0vda], the
valley appears closed by the Ni/heilind (5215 ft.), with its large .snovv-lield,
and the Ojitratind (57(10 ft.), to the S.W. of it (su'umit not visilde). The
ascent of the Gjuratind, first made in 1884, requires (there and back)
9-10 hrs. and is described as difficult (especially towards the end) but
highly remunerative.
From Grfivdal we walk, crossing two bridges, to ('/2 hr.) the Grev-
dals-Sceire, where the ascent becomes steeper. The path at iirst keeps to
the left bank but crosses to the right by a small bridge after i'/4 hr. Farther
on (red and white marks) it turns to the left and climbs to the pass of
the Rendeliskar (ca. 3 hrs. from Ori^vdal). We descend over snow and
'Ur', passing to the left above the Svartevand, which is commanded by the
rocky wall of the Hesten. About 1 hr. after leaving the top of the pass
we come into view of the Eikisdalsvand, with the Gogs^re (p. 212) to the
left and the Vikesakisen (p. 213) to the right. At the Meringdali-Scetre,
I'/i hr. from the Rend^lsskar, the path becomes more distinct. 0veraas
is continually in sight. In 20 min. we cross the stream to the left, at a
point indicated by 'varder, and soon reach the landing-place of the small
boat, which is summoned by a shout of 'hoio botf from above.
J0veraas, see p. 213.
The "'Romsdal , or valley of the Rauma (p. 70), is one of the
most famous in Norway. The road from Nass descends to the right
hank of the river and (2 Kil.) unites with that from Vehlungsnaes
(p. 207 ; 3 Kil. distant). It then ascends the smiling green valley,
through park -like scenery (alders, birches, ashes), flanked with
high mountains. On an eminence to the right, 4 Kil. from Naes
and nearly surrounded hy the Rauma, is the Hotel Helgences (see
p. 207). Farther on, to the left, is the gaard of Aak, with its pretty
garden, now the residence of Mr. H. 0. Wills, a member of the
well-known tobacco-making family of Bristol. To the right, beyond
the stream, opens the Isterdal, with its peaks : on the W. side Bispen
('the Bishop') and Sestrene ('the Sisters'; 3095 ft.), and on the E.
Kongen ('the King' ; 5013 ft.). A little farther on, a road diverging
to the right leads across the Rauma to the gaard of Sogge (comp.
p. 201). On our road lie the gaards of Hole and Venge, opposite
which is the gaard Fiva, in a grove of birches. On the E. side of
the valley, scarcely visible from the road , are the picturesque
Moldefjord. ROMSDAL. Map,p.2m. — -27.E. 209
Vengelinder (5960 U.), adjoining which and dominating the land-
scape towers the huge *Romsdalsliorn (5100 ft.), usually known
as Hornet.
The Ascent of tuk Komsdalshoen (one day), lirst made in 1827, is
not very difficult, though rather dangerous, and it is impossible after snow.
We ascend the Vengedal (here practicable for driving) , and climb to the
peak from the W. side. — The ascent of the highest Vesgeiind , first
accomplished by Mr. Wm. C. Slingsby in 1881, is not quite so difficult.
It takes 8-10 hrs. from the Venge-Soeter (there and back). The view is
said to be very fine. — The 3Ij0lnik, which Mr. Slingsby (1S85) describes
as one of the steepe.st miiuntain.s in Europe, is extremely difficult (14-15 hrs.).
It is best scaled from Indre Dalen (good quarters) in the Vengedal fp. 208),
a drive nf 3 hrs. from Nfes.
On the W. side of the valley rise the *Troldtinder ('witch-pin-
nacles'; 6010 ft.). Part of the crest is known as 'Brudefelget', or
the bridal train. The highest peak may he ascended by the small
glacier visible between Nses and A ak (difficult; ascended by C. Hall
in 1882). The road leads close by the foaming Raunia. At one
place, much exposed to avalanches in winter, the road is carried
through the broad bed of the river by means of an embankment.
14 Kil. Horgheim ('235 ft.; plain but fair station) lies on an
ancient moraine. The finest scenery of the Romsdal ends here; the
valley is wider, its floor marshy. The slopes are strewn with the
remains of avalanches.
We pass the gaards oi Mirebe and Treene, and, on the opposite
side of the valley, Redninyen, Alnas, and litmmem. Below Rem-
mem (right) is a waterfall, and near the gaard of Mowje (left) is the
beautiful Mongefos, descending from the Mongegjura (4230 ft.).
.\bove this, not visible from the road, rises the KaUkrnafjeld (5895
ft.), ascended from Flatmark. The siiles of the valley are here
2000-3000 It. high. Splendid view of the Troldtinder and the Sem-
ie/j?id( 5770 ft.) behind us. The road and the Rauma next thread their
way through a chaos of rocks formed by a tremendous landslip. Be-
yond the church of Kor^, not visible from the road, we reach —
12 Kil. Flatmark (station, very fair, D. 2kr.), in a fertile and
smiling part of the valley. Opposite rises Skiriailen (3745 ft.).
Scenery still fine, though less grand. On each side are water-
falls, shorn of their might in dry seasons : on the left the Slygge-
fondfos, Grdvdefos, Skogefos; on the right the Dentefos. To the
S., above Ormeim, rises the Middagshoug. The Rauma is here
dammed up so as to form a kind of lake. The road now ascends
rapidly. To the right is the *V(Ermr)fos, leaping nearly 1000 ft.
from the VV. side, majestic after rain and spring-thaws. Best view
from a rocky knoll opposite the fall, on the right bank of the Rauma.
11 Kil. Ormeim [Station, good; view of the Vaermofos from the
back-windows) is beautifully situated high above the Rauma. To
the S., the Alterhei, with its peak Storhcetten (r)940ft. ; ascent past
the Vaermofos in 4 hrs. ; two-thirds ridable; horse 4, guide 4 kr.).
From Ormeim to Keitan on the Eikisdalsvand. see p. 214.
Baedeker's Korway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 14
210 R.-J7. — Map,p.l>0d. STUEFLOTEN. Moldefjurd.
Excursionists to the Itomsdal from Veblungsnaes or Aandalsnaes
usually turn at Ormeim or even at Flatmark, but the upper part of
the valley is also very line. About 4 Kil. above Ormeim we come to
a finger-post indicating the way to the *Slettafos. We alight, cross
the bridge above the fall, and ascend to the right by a rough path
to a spot below overhanging rocks, where we have a fine view of the
fall and hear its roar. The rocky sides of the gully have been worn
by the water into deep cauldrons ('Jaettegryder' ; comp. p. 294).
The road runs high above the Rauma, which, often lost to view,
receives several tributaries, chief of which is the Ulvaa on the
right, the discharge of the Vtvedalsvand. We ascend the once
dreaded Bjemeklev ('bears' cliff') in windings.
10 Kil. (pay for 11) Stuefloten (2050 ft; ^Station, R. 11/9-2,
B. or S. 11/2) D.2kr.). Fine view from the height of Toppen (2 hrs.).
From .Stuefloten a in(i\intiiin-i)atb ascends along the Bevra, passes the
high-lying gaard oi Bjorlien, the three Beivervand Lakes, and the Oraver-
vand, and leads to Finsai and the £ikisdalsvand (p. 213; 10 hrs., with guide).
To TUB NoHDDALsFJoKD (p. 20U), towards the W. : first by a road up the
Ulvaa to the Tunge-Smter (quarters), at the Vj. end of the Ulvedalsvand;
then across the fjeld and down the MuhUds-Elv to the gaard Muldal (quar-
ters), situated high atiove the Tafjord (p. 201).
The shortest route from the Eomsdal to Jotiinheim leads from Mel-
inen^ the next skyds-station beyond Stuefloten, via the Ny-Sxler to Skeaker
(R0jshjem) in 2 days; comp. p. 157.
Road through the Oudbrandsdal, see pp. 68-71. As far as Dom-
aas it is monotonous and tiring.
b. Excursion to the Eikisdal.
' Road (fast stations) or Steamer (thrice weekly; in 5V4-6V4 hrs.) to
Neste, at the entrance of the Eikisdal. The quarters at the skyds-stations,
with the exception of Eidsvaag, are rather poor. We either go by road
and return by steamer, or the reverse. Three days should be allowed.
We begin with the land-route: — 1st Day, to Eidsvaag. 2nd Day, walk
and row to Neste; walk or drive to J0veraas; steam in the little 'Eikis-
dalen' (fare 1 kr. ; extra-trips, 1-5 pers. 10 kr., 6-10 pers. 15 kr., there and
back) in 2 hrs., or row (with two rowers 5 kr. 64, with three rowers 7 kr.
20 0. ; return-fare double) in 3-31/2 hrs. up the Bikisdalsvand to Reitan-
Utigaard, and back to Nuste. 3rd Day, back to Blolde by steamer. — If
we begin with the steamer, we go on the first day to Reitan- Utigaard ;
spend the second night at Eidsvaag; and return on the third day to Molde.
If the hours of the Sundal steamer (comp. pp. 211, 216) happen to suit,
we may, instead of returning to Molde, go on to EidP0ren and thence to
Sundals0ren or Christianssund. — To vcalkers may be recommended the
pass to Orevdal and the Romsdalsfjord, as described at p. 208.
The Land Route from Molds to NesTB (67 Kil.) is attractive
only on the Fanestrand (p. 205) and between Tjelde and Eidsvaag,
Beyond the hospital oi Legrovik (p. 205) the road bears somewhat in-
land. To the right is the substantial gaard of Aare, where the road
to the Aaredal (p. 206) diverges to the left. Farther on are the
gaard of Rebcek and the large new church and parsonage af Boise.
9 Kil. Strande. We skirt the Fanefjord, bounded on the S. by
the lofty Skaala (3590 ft. ; so called from the 'skaala' or saucer-like
Moldefjord. EIDSVAAG. Map,p.20d. — 27.R. 211
depression on its N. side), and pass the gaards of Lenscet, Mjelve,
and Hjelset (a drive of 21/4 hrs. from Molde). At the last the route
to Battensfjordseren diverges to the N. (see p. 216).
13 Kil. Eide (tolerable quarters). — The fjord ends at the church
of Kleve. The road follows the N. side of the valley.
9 Kil. Istad. A little beyond, the road forks: to the left to
Angvik (p. 219), to the right to the Eikisdal. The latter road leads
through the Osmark, a monotonous vFooded district, overlooked by
the grand Skaala on the right. Crossing the Stor-Elo, vre pass the
Osvand and the gaard of Gusiaas, and farther on the Skjorsatervand,
with its gaard, and the Satervand. Then a steep descent, with a
beautiful view of the Langfjord and the snow-peaks to the S.
13 Kil. Tjelde, on the Langfjord, whence we may row to Neste
(16 Kil., in 2'/2hrs.). — The road leads E., pretty high above the
Langfjord, and then descends, in full view of the Skjorta and other
mountains to the S. We pass several substantial gaards.
9 Kil. Eidsvaag (^Hotel Sverdrup, very fair, 6 min. from the
landing-place) lies at the E. end of the fjord, here shallow and at
low tide covered with sea-weed. Eoat-skyds from Eidsvaag to
(14 Kil.) Neste with two rowers 3 kr. 92, with three 5 kr. 60 e.
A road, ascending beyond the charch of Eidsvaag and the under-
mentioned bridge, and aflfording a fine retrospect of the whole of the
Langfjord, leads across the Tilteveid to (8 Kil.; I1/2 hr.) Eids0ren on the
Sundal.i/Jord (p. 217), where there is a modest inn near the landing-place of
the steamer. Boat-skyds to (23 Kil.) Sundalseren (p. 217) with two rowers
6kr.44,with three9kr. 200.; to (llKil.) Koksvik (p.217)3kr. 92, 5kr. 60 er.
About 5/2 ^^- to the E. of the Hot. Sverdrup our road reaches
the Eidsvaagkirke and crosses a river entering the E. end of the
Langfjord. It then skirts the E. bank of the fjord , and passes
the parsonage of (5 Kil.) Ncesset, where the novelist Bjernson spent
part of his youth. It then becomes very hilly, with pretty views
of the Eirisfjord on the right and the Skjorta on the left (p. 212).
About 4 Kil. from Nssset it passes the two gaards of Ytre and
Indre Bogge (steamboat-station), and at (3 Kil.) Bredvik it ends.
It is better to take boat-skyds from Ytre Bogge to (6 Kil.) Neste.
14 Kil. (from Eidsvaag) Nesle (p. 212).
The Steamboat from Moldk to N^stb steers to the E., between
the Fanestrand (p. 205) on the left and the island of Boise, with its
high -lying church at the E. end, on the right. Then past the
promontory Dvergsnces, sometimes calling at Revik ; to the S., round
Semesje; and to the E. again. On the right are the islands of
Scpkken (p. 206) and Vee ('holy island'), with its church. Stations:
Havnevik and Selsnces.
We next steer across the mouth of the Langfjord, past the oddly
shaped islet Hcst/iohnen (S.E. of Ve0), in view of the noble Roms-
dal Mts., to Ottesiad and Alfarnces (poor quarters at the skyds-station ),
one on each side of the entrance to the Redvenfjord, up which a
steamer plies to Larcim or Lerheim (Hotel Laereim), at the S. end.
14*
212 Rr27. — Map,p.'204. N0STE. Moldefjord.
Fkom ALKAKNyiis TO NiV.s IN THE RoMSDAL. The fine but somewhat
hilly road, skirting the R«rdvenfjord, leads through a beautiful region,
well cultivated and studded with gaards. Opposite we see the church of
Eid (p. 206) and the Oksen (p. 206j. In the distance rise the Troldstole
(p. 207). At the gaard of Lareim (p. 211; 9 Kil. from Alfarnfcs) the road
forks to Nordvik to the right, and to Thorvik to the left. The latter
leads us up the LcrrcmskMvene, where we suddenly get a striking view of
{\ie''Oiers(!eteatii, a lake with a wooded island, in a crater-like basin; of
the Skjolteu (p. 207); to the left of it the sharp- pointed Vengetinder
(p. 207); to the right the Ssvtnajsfjeld, the Isterfjelde, and the Indfjord
Mts. To Thorvik '/2 hr. more. The road descends on the N. side of the
valley, ascends again thmugh a narrow pass, and, leaving the hill of
KltntgeiHKS to the right, leads through pine-woods to —
14 Kil. Thorvik, on the Romidalsljord. The station, for boats as well
as horses, lies high above the fjord, but we may drive down to the water.
From Thorvik by boat to (4 Kil.) Veblurtfisna;!. ^ or to (15 Kil.) Ann-
dalsnccs, see p. 207.
The steamer next enters the Langfjord, 30 Kil. long, 3 Kil.
broad, on the N. hank of which towers the Skaala (p. 210; the
'skaala' not visible from this side). The S. shore, which we skirt,
is mostly well cultivated, but monotonous. Stations : Midtet (also
connected with Altarnscs by road) and Mj/fcieftos/rtrf (good station
for 'boat-skyds'), with the church of Vistdal, on a little bay, from
which the Vistdal runs inland. On the bank are several boat-
houses (Nest); in the background, high old coast-lines and the snow-
clad Vistdalsfjclde. The steamer passes the entrance of the Eiris-
fjord and calls at Eidsvang (p. 211), at the E. end of the Langfjord.
The steamer now turns back for a short distance, rounds the
Nces, and enters the *Eirisfjord. To the left, in the distance, is the
Storglanebba. Before us rises the imposing Skjorta (5620 ft.) or
Hvitkua ('white cow'). To the right, farther on, are the abrupt
Gogsere and (finally) , in the background , the Sjedela and the
Meringdalsnsebba (p. 213). The steamer calls at Bogge fp. 21 1), on
the E. bank, and soon after reaches —
N«ste or Nauste, also called Eirisfjordseren {Eikisdal Hotel, very
fair, English spoken; Torjul's Inn, plain, with the skyds-station),
to the W. of the mouth of the EikisdaU-Elv . The white villa to the
E. is occupied by an Englishman.
From Ngrste a fjeld-pass, diverging to the right at the Eirisfjord-Kirke
(see below), descends through the Hornedal, between the Hesthaug (3625 ft.)
on the N. and the Uglehavg on the S., to Orevdal (p. 208; 8-9 hrs.).
The 0veraas road (suitable for walking; II/2 hr.) ascends the
fertile valley watered by the Eikisdals-Elv , usually called the
Siradal, and flanked with high mountains. To the left is the Skjorta,
soon concealed by the Oogsere or Gokseira (4325 ft.); to the right,
in the background, the Meringdalsnaebba and the Sjerdela (p. 213).
We pass (1/2 lir.) the Eirisfjord-Kirke oiSira-Kirke, lying a little to
the left of the route. At a school-house, a little beyond the church,
our road forks, both branches leading to the Eikisdalsvand. The
one to the right emerges by the gaard of Aasen. The 0veraas road
to the left , which we follow , crosses the broad river and runs up
and down along its right bank, at the base of the Gogsere. The top
Moldefjord. EIKISDAL. Map, p. 204. —27. R. 213
of the old moraine, separating the Eikisdalsvand from the Siradal
and broken by tlio river only, commands a line view of the valley
and the fjord beliind iis. On the S. side of the moraine, 1 hr.
beyond the church, are the gaards of —
8 Kil. 0veraas (fast station, with good quarters, R., B., or S.
80 e., D. 1 kr.J, V4 M. from the N. end of the Eikisdalsvand.
FKOM0VERAAS TO GR0VDAL, sce p. 203. We TOW across the outlet of
the lake, fnllow the sater-path on the left bank of the stream, then cross
the latter and ascend past Ihe Meringdals-Sasters, following the red and
white marks (guide desirable).
Fkom 0VEKAAS TO THE J0fKSENDAL (p. 217), 7-8 hrs., wlth gulde. We
first follow the N.E. bank of the lake for some distance, then ascend a
sseter path to the E. to the Ljosehctn- Sater , near the Ljosehotnvand. The
route, now much steeper, traverses two snow-fields and then descends
rapidly to Branstad, where it joins the 0ksendal road.
The '-'Eikisdalsvand (197 ft. ^ steamer and small boats, see
p. 210) tills a narrow rocky cleft about 18 Kil. in length. On both
sides to\\er snowy and ice-clad mountains enlivened with water-
falls. Even in the beginning of August snow-patches stretch al-
most to the lake. At places, however, the slopes are clothed with
pines and other trees, amongst which bears still lurk. Hazel-nuts
abound, and are sold as 'Romsdalsnedder'. The lake is generally
frozen over in winter, but the ice is seldom strong enough for
driving on. Avalanches are frequent, and stones sometimes fall
from the hills. Towards noon the lake is usually like a mirror,
reflecting Fjeld and Fos in a curious double picture. The few
dwellings on its banks are constantly menaced by the rocks above.
On leaving 0veraas, we see at first only a small part of the lake.
To the left are the precipices of the Gogsere and the Aashammer. To
the right, the gaard of Meringdal, commanded by the Meringdals-
ncthha and the Sjedela (5010 ft."). The mountains soon recede,
and the lake is in full view. High up on the left is the Fletatind
(5425 ft.). To the right the Nyhoitlnd (p. 203) peers above the
Sjedela. To the left, the waterfall of Tongjem; then, the two
gaards of Viken (whence a path leads to the Lilledal, p. 217),
with the Vikesakisen (5970 ft.) above. On the W. side is the
/EvelshrcE, above which is the imposing peak of the Gjuratind
(p. 208). Above the gaard of Hotm gleam the snow-fields of the
Hoemfjeld, commanded by the i/oem<i?ic/. Farther on, to the right,
is the Rangaatind (5225 ft.) , to the left the Aagottind (5215 ft.)
and the Bjerktind (4355 ft.).
In front of the Kangaatind, at the head of the lake, to the
right, we now see the *Maradalsfos, a superb waterfall of the Mar-
dela , descending from an upland dale some 250U ft. above the
sea, leaping 650ft. down a sheer cliff, rebounding in spray from
the rock below , and re-appearing in two arms to form another
great fall lower down. A finer view of the fall is obtained by
landing, but the lower fall only is accessible (fatiguing ascent of
214 R.2R. — Map,p.204. EIKISDAL.
3/4 hr. ; from Reitan and back about 3 lirs.). Farther to the N. is
another and apparently larger fall, leaping into the same basin.
The lake now trends to the S.E., and the gaard of Reitan comes
in sight. Above the gaard is a beautiful veil-like •waterfall, with
the Berfjeld (4065 ft.) beyond.
The gaard of Beitan or Reiten (good quarters at Hulvor Reitan' s
Inn) lies about 6 min. from the landing-place of Eikisdal, near
the mouth of the Aura-Elv. About 6 min. farther up are the gaards
of Utigaard (with 1*2 beds; young Utigaard is reputed a good
guide) and Opigaard (fair quarters at both). — A pretty walk up
the valley brings us in 20 min. to the Eikisdal Chapel (351 ft.),
where the pastor of Naesset (p. 211) holds service four times in
summer. Farther on are some mills (below us, to the left), driven
by a small stream that springs direct from the earth. Near the
bridge over the Aura is a salmon-fishery.
The mad leads farther up the valley, passing many pretty gaards, to
Finsaet (11 Kil. from Reitan; fair accommodation). Path thence (guide
desirable, '/2-I kr.) to (1 hr.) the Aiiresttipe or Aurstaupa, the falls of the
Aura, issuing frum the Aur.njfi. Hence we may ascend the Aura (with
guide), following the 'varder', to the tourist-hut on the Aursj0 (p. 217).
From Reitan we may ascend by a diflicult fjeld-path, passing to the
W. of Ihe Evelsfonn, the Rangaatinder, the Hoemsfjeld, and the Gjuratind,
to Orevdal (p. 208; 10-11 hrs.).
Fkom Reitan to Okmeim, in the Romsdal (p. 209), 8-10 lira, (guide neces-
sary). The ascent to the fjeld is rather steep, especially for the lirst
3 hrs., following a brook and passing a waterfall opposite Reitan. We
liass between the Gjeitsiden and the Berfjeld and reach Ihe Sandgrovshar.
At the top of the fjeld we traverse snow-fields, with the Sandgvovhegda to
the left and the Sandgrovvande to the right. I>escent easier. Ko sa'ter
until within '/■! hr. of Ormeim (see p. 2U6).
28. From Molde to Trondhjem.
Most travellers go from Molde to Trondhjem by steamer either direct
or via Battenfjords0ren (p. 216), the latter route avoiding the e.xposed
passage between Bud and Christianssund (see below). The land-routes
(pp. 21G, 219), especially the S. end of the Sundalsfjord and the Sundal
(p. 217), ofVer many attractions; but those who have seen the Romsdal
and the Nordfjord must not expect to find here a heightening of scenic
interest.
a. Direct Sea Route.
29 S.M._ Steamboat daily in about 12 hrs. (13 kr. 60, 8 kr. 50 0.). Pass-
engers subject to sea-sickness should start in the evening in order to get
over the passage to Christianssund in the night. — The figures below show
the distances from Molde to Christianssund, thence to Beian, and thence
to Trondhjem (comp. p. vi).
Molde, see p. 204. — Soon after starting we steer to the N. into
the Julsund. The islands of Otters and Oorsten are passed on the
left; the Juiajien (1810 ft.), on a headland, and later the pyramidal
Gjendemsfjeld (2080 ft.) on the right. Leaving the Moefyr to the
left, the vessel rounds the promontory of Bud or Bod, connected
with Molde by a local steamer and by a road, and steers out to sea,
unprotected by islands until it reaches Christianssund. Beyond the
CHRISTIANSSUND. 28. Route. 215
liodfjeld we soon sight the headland of Stemshesten (2230 ft.), the
S. boundary of the Nordmere, and a little later the lofty Tustere
(p. 216). To the left lies the islet of Fuylen ('Bird Island'), with
a beacon ; on the right are several gaards at the base of Stemshesten
(^Stemme, Hanas, etc.). Fine view of the snow-mountains of the
Romsdal. We next pass the lights oiKvidholmsfyr and Hestskjcersfyr
(a white building ) on the right, and then steer between the Kirke-
land (right) and the Inland (left) to —
12 S.M. Christianssund. — Gkajjd Hotel, in thy Torv, R. IV2-2V2,
B. 1, D. 2 kr., well siuikeii of: Lossins Hotel, near the pier.
British Vice-Consul, Mr. Gram Parelius, Kirkelandet. — Lloyd's Agent,
Mr. Karl Bang.
Christianssund, the capital of the district of JVorcZjnOTe, a rapidly
growing town and important tish-mart, was founded in 1742 and
contains 12,000 inhabitants. It lies on four islands, which enclose
the harbour: Kirkeldndet, to the S.W., with the chief church and
the hotels ; Jnlandet to the E. ; Nordlandet to the N.E., with a church
and line woods; ai\A Skorpen to the W., with the bare drying-
places for the 'klipflsk', which are packed in 'voger' of 36 lbs. and
exported chiefly to Spain. Steam-launches ply between the Islands.
From the harbour we may ascend the street to the market-place,
which is adorned with a statue of President Christie (p. 119 ; a native
of Christianssund). We then proceed to the right to the Parish
Church, with its pretty promenades. We next follow Langveien to
the N. and outside the town reach the Vaardetaarn, a good point of
view, 1 M. from the harbour. About S'^ M. farther on is the large
basin of the town water-works, to which all the rain-water that falls
on the rocky ridge is led. — Off Christianssund, 15 Kil. to the
N.W., is the island of Grip, with a fishing population of 200.
Local Steamers iibound. Thus, to the Sundal, see p. 216; to Suren-
dal-Todal, see p. 219. To Molde and the Romsdal two or three times a week.
Beyond Christianssund the coast is sheltered by islands, but the
larger vessels at first keep to the open sea. To the left in the distance
is the lighthouse of Grip (see above). To the right, the islands Tustere
(2920 ft.) and Stahhen (2960 ft.), between which are seen the
distant snow-mountains of the Sundal and the Eikisdal. We now
steer within the islands. To the left, the Ede ; beyond it, the low
island of Smelen. To the right, the Ertvaage. Scenery now mono-
tonous. Farther on, to the left, through the Ramsefjord, we look
out to the open sea. We next steer into the strait of Trondhjems-
leden, between the mainland and the large island Hitteren, a
haunt of deer, with the station of Havnen.
The only station at which all the large steamers call is • —
15 S.M. Beian, at the entrance to the Trondhjems-Fjord, whence
travellers may go northwards without touching at Trondhjeni (see
p. 233). The district passed (0rlandet) is fairly cultivated.
7 S.M. Trondhjem, see p. 219.
216 Route 28. BATTENFJORDS0REN. From Molde
b. By Land to Battenfjords^ren and thence by Sea
vi& Christianssund.
Tlie fine skyds-drive to Baltenfjordseren (38 Kil. ) takes about 5V2 hrs.
(7 kr., two pers. 10 kr., 'caleschvogn' for 2 pers. 16, 3 pers 18, 4 pers. 20 kr. ;
bargaining desirable). It should be begun in good time, so that none of
the scenery may be missed. The hotel in Battenfjordsifren is good and
moderate, but those who prefer it may arrange to go at once on board
the Steamer (six times weekly), which reaches Battenfjords0ren at 9 p.m.
and leaves it at 4 a.m. The steamers are small, but the staterooms (50 0.)
and meals (B. or S. l'/;, !>• 2 kr.) are good. The passage to Trondhjem
takes 13 hrs. (fare 10 kr. 60 0., lor two members of a family 16 kr.).
From Molde \\iStrande to (19 Kil.) Hjelset, see pp. 210, 211. The
new road ascends past several gaards, at points affording fine views.
To the right is a road leading to Eide (p. 211). We then cross the
high-lying plateau of the Rauheia. Beyond a small lake (about
l'/4hr.'8 drive from Hjelset) the road begins its circuitous descent.
To the left lies the Furscet-Sceter. Pleasant view of the well-tilled
valley. After a drive of I1/4 hr. more we reach —
19 Kil. Battenfjordseren (Hot. Kong Oscar, very fair), prettily
situated at the S. end of the Battenfjord or Botnfjord.
The voyage across the Battenfjord to Christianssund (p. 215) takes
11/2^1. At the mouth of the fjord, to the W., lies the large gaard
of Gimncfs. Farther on we pass between the islands of Frede and
Avere; on the latter rises the Meknokken (1690 ft.). At Christians-
sund we lie to for lY2lir., which time we may utilize, in fine
weather, by a walk to the Vaardetaarn (p. 215).
The rest of the voyage also avoids the open sea either wholly or
in part. In the former case the steamer steers to the S. of the large
islands of Tustere, Stabben, andiErtvaage (p. 216), calling a.t Laurvik
(Aure) and Vighals (Vikan). In the latter case we keep to the N. of
these islands, following the route of the large steamers and touching
at Ed0, Magere, Boresund, and Storfosen. On the last is a large
dairy-farm (180 cows), which supplies Christianssund with milk.
— Beian, where the two routes unite, and the entrance to the Trond-
hjem Fjord, see p. 215. The voyage from Christianssund to Trond-
hjem (p. 219) takes IO-IOV2 hrs.
c. By Land through the Suudal.
This route is most conveniently accomplished in combination with the
Kikisdal (p. 210). In this case we either, on the return from Eidsvaag
(p. 211), proceed to the E. to Eidseren and take the Sundal steamer
("Restaurant on board; thrice weekly; 21/4 hrs.) or boat-sky ds (ca. 4 hrs.) to
Sundalseren; or we pass over the mountains from jBfveraas (p. 213} to
0ksendalen, and cross thence to Swidalsaren by steamer or boat-skyds (ca.
3hrs. ; in all 1 day). — From Sundalseren a road with fast stations leads
via Aune to (135 Kil.) Steren, on the Trondhjem railway (p. 77; 2 days).
The Sundal steamer starts from Christianssund {^.1\b). The
first part of the route is uninteresting. Stations : Kristvik, Stensvig,
Kvarncps, Gimnas (see above); then, beyond the mouth of the Batten-
fjord, Torvig, Berge,/Sfdegaard, Hocm, Flemmen, &nd Sandvtg (Gjul),
to Trondhjem. SUNDAL. Map, p, 204. — 28. R. 217
wliore the Sundalsfjord begins. We toucli at Koksvik i Thingvold
.iiul Angvik (p. 219), and reach (6 hrs. from Christianssund) —
Eidsflfren (skyds-statioii; three beds), wliere tho road from Eids-
vaag ends (p. '211). Boat-skyds to (17 Kil.) 0ksendalen with two
rowers 4 kr. 7G, with three B kr.SOc. ; to (23 Kil.) Suiidalseren 6 kr.
44, 9 kr. 20 0. ; to (14 Kil.) Koksvik (p. 219) 3 kr. 92, 5 kr. 60 0.
Reyoiid Fjeseide and Jordal we enjoy a freer *View of the S.
part of the fjord, witli its girdle of snow-capped mountains. In the
first place, however, the steamer steers into the bay of —
0ksendalen or 0ksendals0ren ( Vinms Hotel) , at the mouth of
the valley of the same name, with two high mountains in the back-
ground. Through the valley runs a road to (14 Kil.) Branstad (p. 213 ;
fjeld-path to the Eikisdalsvand). Boat-skyds from 0ksendalen to
(1 1 Kil.) Sundalseren with two rowers 3 kr. 8, with three 4 kr. 40<*.
The next station, on the E. bank of the t^ord, is OpdeL or Oj)dal,
the starting-point for a visit to the Inderdal.
From I)pd0l (slow station) a road ascends through the Virumdal to
DaUbe and (14 Kil.) NeJradal or Nerdal (quarters ; fjeld-route to Todals0rcn,
see p. 219). We then walk up the "Inderdal to the tourist-station Inderdal
(bed 75, B. 40, D. 80, S. 50 0.), where guides for several fjeld-ascents are
to be had. The finest points are the Skarfjeld (6070 it.), the pointed
DaUttaarn (4900 ft.; first ascended in 18S9), and behind it the Tauritfjeld
(G103 ft.). — From Inderdal across the fjeld to Stor/ale in the Sundal
(p. 218), 5-6 hrs.
The Sundalsfjord increases in graude\ir as we proceed. To the left
rise the snow-capped Evelsfonnhei (5042 ft.) and the pointed Hofs-
n(')6a (6145 ft.), with the Fonnenihha to its left; in front towers
tho KdUcen ((3180 ft.), separating the Sundal from the LiUedal.
Sundalseren (/nn, with skyds-station, very fair) lies at the mouth
of the Sitndals-Elv, dominated on the N. by the Hofsnibba.
From Sundal80ren we row in 1/2 hr. to the gaard of Trcedal, at the
entrance of the "LiUedal, through which a road leads up to (9 Kil.) the
gaard of Lilledalen (quarters at t)le Dalen's). Thence we ascend (a small
part of the way very steep) to (5 hrs.) the Holbu-Saeter, on the Holbuvand
(2585 ft.), where the hut of the Christianssund Tourist Society offers food
and four beds. A marked path leads hence past the Osvand (2730 It.), Lang-
vcind (2740 ft.), Sandvand (2755 ft. ; with the Sandvaslaagen-Sxler)-, and Torhu-
vand (2815 ft.), and over the ridge, to the N. end of the Aursje (3490 ft.;
6 M. long), on the W. side of which are the three Alf-Saters and a summer
boarding-house. Skirting the E. bank, we reach, in 5 hrs. from the Uolbu-
vand. the large and well-equipped Aursja-Hytte or Lesje-Hytte (16 beds).
In 2V2lirs. more we arrive at the Gauibu-Sivter or Oaidsje, whence we descend,
passing the Ylensvand and at places skirtin;; the Jora. the outlet of these
lakes, to (2V'.! hrs.) Holaaker. in the Gudbrandsdal (p. 70).
At places the *Sundal almost rivals the Romsdal in grandeur.
The first part is the finest. The views present themselves to best
advantage on the descent from the Dovrefjeld (R. 10).
The road ascends on the right bank of the river, passing the
Sundalskirke, and then crosses an old moraine, overgrown with
birches. To the left are the picturesque Vinjefosset\ forme<l by the
outlet of the Evelsfonn. We cross this brook and then the Sundals-
Elv. In the left rear we see the gaard of Elvershei, belonging to an
218 Route 28. SDNDAL. From Molde
Englislimaii ; to the right is the snow-flecked and glacier-seamed
Kaldfonna (6060 ft.), which is also conspicuous farther on. The
road ascends along an old moraine to a higher zone of the valley,
crosses the stream issuing from the OredaL (right), and leads to the
right close under the steep slope of the Uoaasnibba. At four of the
most dangerous points here the traveller is warned by his skydsgut
to drive quickly on account of the avalanches and stone-falls ('Snee-
skred! Kjer til!'). Beyond the gaard of Tyfte the road returns to the
right bank. On and beyond the bridge we enjoy a fine retrospect of
the snow-flelds of the Evelsfonn (p. 217). In II/2 br. after leaving
Sundalseren we reach the gaard of —
19 Kil. Fale or Storfale (fair quarters, R., B., & S. 3 kr.), on a
hill to the left. Waterfalls descend on both sides of the valley.
The Inderdal (p. 217) may be reacheil hence iu 5-6 hrs. (with guide).
The serrated mountain that becomes more and more conspicuous
as we advance is the Romfogskjarringen. We ascend a rocky barrier,
shutting off the lower part of the valley; retrospect of the Evelsfonn.
The road crosses the Sundals-Elv and passes the small red Rom-
foys-Kirke. To the left, near the gaard of Musgjerd, are the long
Olheimfos and the serrated ridge culminating in the Skretind
(3850 ft.). The road recrosses the river by the Otheim-Bro (500 ft.),
passes the gaards of Oravem, and skirts the steep S. slope of the
Skretind. Opposite opens the Gredal. — After 2'/2 hrs. we reach —
17 Kil. Gjera (good quarters). — A few kilometres farther on,
near the boundary of the Romsdals-Stift and the S. Trondhjems-
Stift, the road becomes so steep, that most travellers will prefer to
walk (comp. p. xxii). To the right is the deep gorge of the iSundals-
Elv, or Driva, as it is called in the upper part of its course. The
good road ends, and is replaced by a very hilly ancient road.
11 Kil. (pay for 14) Sliper (1806 ft.; poor quarters). — The next
part of tlie road, under the Sliperhovd (3436 ft.), is also pleasanter
for walking than for driving. On the E. side of the Sliperhovd opens
the valley of the Vindela, an affluent of the Driva, which the road
crosses at a saw-mill. On the left, visible at a long distance, is the
church of Lenset, commanded by the Vindalskinn (4746 ft.). In the
vicinity are numerous gaards. Farther on the road passes the pros-
perous gaard Gravaune, skirts the S. spur of the Vindalskinn, and
runs through low woods. We soon come in sight of the long valleys
and heights of the Dovrefjeld. The road crosses the Festa, which
forms falls both above and below the bridge (2015 ft.). To the left,
behind us, rises the Horn (5225 ft.), with a large snow-fleld.
15 Kil. (pay for 21, in the reverse direction for 18) Aalbu ri740ft.;
very fair quarters), at the S. base of the Derrermhovd (2870 ft.), is
reached by walkers in 4 hrs. from Sliper, driving taking almost as long.
A broad road, diverging to the S. at Aalbu, crosses the Driva, skirts
(at places a mere footpath) the N. and E. sides of the Svarthovd (3125 ft.),
crosses the Driva again, and reaches (ca. 2 hrs.) the Dovrefjeld road (p. 73)
about halfway between Aune and Rise.
to Trondjhem. 0RKEDAI>.S0EEN. 1>.S. Roiite. 219
The road, still hilly, passes the Opdals-Kirk€.(2010 ft.), a timber
structure of the 17th rent, with a conspicuous spire, situated at the
foot of the 0rsnipen (4520 ft.).
11 Kil. Aune (p. 73), on the great Dovrefjeld road, about
13/4 hr.'s drive from Aalbu.
d. By Land vi§, Angvik and 0rkedal.
This route traverses the Nordmerc^ a district of which the attractions
are highly rated by the Norwegians. It is conveniently combined with a
visit to the Eikisdalsvand by going on from Eidseren (comp. p. 216) by
steamer or boat-skyds to Koksmk i Thingvold, whence 0rkedalS0ren is
reached in two days.
From Molde to (31 Kil.) Islad^ see pp. 210, 211. Theu, the slow
stations of (11 Kil.) Heggeim and (11 Kil.) Angvik, a station of the
Sundal steamer (p. 216). Hence by boat-skyds across the Sundals
fjord to —
6 Kil. Koksvik i Thingvold (good and moderate quarters), another
station of the Sundal steamer. • — We then take 'land-skyds' to
(7 Kil.) Belsaet, and 'boat-skyds' to (7 Kil.) Stangvik (good quar-
ters), a station of the Christianssund and Todal steamer. Then drive
to (15 Kil.) Aasen, near the steamboat-station of Surendalseren.
The steamer from Christianssund plies to Surendals0ren and on to
Siirendal and TodaUeren thrice a week. Fjeld-route from Todals/2(ren to
Nedredal, 5 hrs. (guide 4 kr.), see p. 217.
From Aasen we drive to (10 Kil.) Haandstad (74 ft.) and
(15 Kil.) Kvammen. In the Foldal, which opens to the S. between
Kvammen and the church of Rindalen, at a point about 10 hrs. from
either of these places, the Trondhjem Tourist Club has built a chalet,
to serve as headquarters for excursions in the line distrirt of Trold-
heimen. — 17 Kil. Rindalen (470 ft.), with a church (quarters at
Strand's, the baker). — 17 Kil. Oarberg i Meldalen, the first place in
SendreTrondhjems-Stift. — 19 Kil. Aarlivold (good quarters, p. 73).
12 Kil. Bak i ffrkedalen (fair quarters). From Bak we may
either drive to (8 Kil.) 0rkedals«rren (Riuns Inn) and take the
steamer thence for Trondhjem (2'/2 hrs.; six times weekly); or we
may go on by road to (15 Kil., pay for 19) Eli, (10 Kil.) Saltncss-
sanden, and (8 Kil.) Esp or Heimdal, a station on the Christiania
and Trondhjem railway (p. 78).
29. Trondhjem and its Fjord.
Arrival. The Railway Station lies to theN. of the town, by the harbour.
The large Steamers are berthed at the W. quay of the Nedre Elvehavn.
Carriages, hotel-iimnibuses, and porters ('Bybud') with hand-carts ('Triller')
await the trains and tlie steamers. — Bergenske and Noideufjeldske Steam-
boat Office (PI. 1'2), KJ^bmands-Gaden 52, near the Brat/ar-Bro.
Hotels. -Britannia (P. A. Clausen), Dronningcns-Gaden, a large atone
house with hot-air heating, electric light, garden, and baths, of the first
rank, with corresponding charges, E. 2-10, B. I-IV4, T>. (2.30 p.m.) 3'/^ kr.;
Angi.etekre (E. 0. Thane), Nordre-Gaden, cor. of Carl-Johans-Gaden,
also with electric light and baths, R. 3-6, B. 2-2'/2, !>■ 3-3'/-., S. 2-2i/2 kr. —
Gkanu Hotel, corner of Kranibod-Gaden and OJaf-i'rygvasons-Gadeu, R.
220 Route 29. TRONDHJEM. Practical Notes.
from 2, B. iy-2, D. 2i/2, S. 2kr. ; Scandinavie, Krambod-Gaden 14, at the
liarbour, nearlv opposite the Grand Hotel, unpretending; but comfortable,
11. l'/4-3, B. 11/4, D. 2, S. 11/2 kr. — ,ytrems Private Hotel, Nordre Gaden 24;
Fru Matzoiot Pension, Munke-Gadeu 17, by the market, R. I'/a-S'/a kr,,
B. 70 **., D. 1 kr., S. 80 0. — FJeldsater Tvrist- Hotel (I1/2 hr.'s drive frum
Trondbjem, 1 pers. 3, 2 pei-s. 5 kr., can-, and pair 10-12 kr.), with hot-air
heating and baths, R. 3, B. 1, D. 2Vv!, S. I'/z kr.
Cafes-Kestaurants: "Frimurerloge (p. 222), Kongens-Gaden, to the E. of
the Frue-Kirke; City Cafi, at the Hotel Scandinavie (see above); Britannia
Cafi, in the hotel of that name. — Confectioners: Erichsen, Vor-Frue-
Gaden, behind the Frue-Kirke; Holm, Nordre-Gaden 4, opposite the poat-
office. ■ — Tivoli (formerly HJorten), in the suburb of Ihlen, with concerts
(adm. 23 5O0.), D. 2, S. IV2 kr., well spoken of.
Cabs in the Torv: per drive within the town proper and the suburbs
of Baklandet, Ihlen, and Elgesaeterbro, for 1, 2, 3, 4 persons, 40, 60, 80 0.,
or 1 kr., outside the town 70 0., 1 kr., 1 kr. 20, 1 kr. 40 0.; per hour 1 kr.
20, 1 kr. 50, 1 kr. 80, or 2 kr. 10 0. Carr. and pair one-half more. Night
fares (10-8) 00 per cent higher. Luggage up to 65 lbs. free (130 lbs. in two-
horse cabs).
Electric Tramways (every 6min ; fare IO0.): from Lademoen, on the
E. (p. 2M), via the Bakke-Bro and Kongens-Oaden, to the suburb of Ihlen, on
the W. (Tivoli).
TouristOffices. T. Bennett og Senner, Olaf-Trygvasons-Gaden 16; F. Beyer
(E. Meller), Dronningens-Gaden 16.
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. 7) in Nordre Gaden, adjoining the
Fruekirke (PI. 2).
Banks (open till 1 p.m. only). NorgesBank, corner of Kongens-Gaden and
KJ0bmands-Gaden; Privatbank, S0ndre Gaden 14; Nordenfjeldske Credit-
Bank, corner of Dronningens-Gaden and S0ndre Gaden ; it. H. Lundgren's
Enke, at the Torv ; and others. Money may also be exchanged at Mr. R. F.
KJeldsberg^s, corner of Strand-Gaden and S0ndre Gaden.
English Church Service in the Hospitals-Kirke (P1.5), Kongens-Gaden
(Sun. 11.45 am., 5 p.m.).
British Vice-Consul, Mr. F. Kjeldsherg (see above). — United States
Commercial Agent, Mr. Claus Berg. — Lloyd's Agents, Messrs. H.&F. Bachke.
Baths. Warm, vapour, and Turkish at Dronningens-Gaden la. — Sea
Baths (for gentlemen 10-2.30 and 6-8 o'clock) to the W. of the railway
station, 20 0. (ferry 5 0.).
Shops. Wine, preserved meats, cognac, etc., at Stoppenbrink''s, Olaf-
Trygvasons-Gaden 7, and Lvndgren's, Torvet 26. — Furs, Antiquities, etc.,
at Joh. Bruun^s, Olaf-Trygvasons-Gaden 37, one of the best shops of the
kind in Norway ; eider-down 20-24 kr. per lb. ; eider-down quilts 80-200 kr. ;
bear-skins 120-450 kr., according to size, colour, etc. — Carved wood,
'Tolleknive', embroideries, etc., at the depot oiiht Norsk Httsjlids Venner
('Friends of Norw. Domestic Industry'), Nordre Gaden 14. — Ornaments,
silver ware in the early-Norwegian style, small well-executed copies of the
figures in the cathedral, etc., at H. Meller's, Dronningens-Gaden 16, corner
of the Nordre Gaden; fancy goods (chased and repousse work) also at
Sinejda's, Nordre Gaden 14. — Booksellers (photographs, maps, etc.):
A. Brun, Kongens-Gaden, corner of Nordre Gaden, opposite the post-
office; A. Holbcek Eriksen, Olaf-Trygvasons-Gaden 17; A. Stabel, cor. of
Nordre Gaden and Dronningens-Gaden; H. Moe, Munke-Gaden 44.
Trondhjem, or Throndhjem (pron. Tronjem), G eima.n Drontheim,
■with 38,000 inhab., situated on a peninsula formed by the Trond-
hjems-Fjord and the river Nid, is the northernmost of the larger
European towns, being situated in 63° 30' N. lat., the same latitude
as the S. coast of Iceland. In summer the climate is like that of
the S. of England, in winter like that of Dresden. The river is
rarely frozen over, the fjord nev^r. Hence the rich vegetation. Many
of the townspeople are wealthy and they have long been noted
History. TRONDHJEM. 29. Route. 221
for their kindly disposition. The district is called Trendelagen, its
inhabitants Trender. To the E., S., and S.W. rise picturesque
heights: E. the Blcesevoldbakke, terminating in the spur of
Ladehammeren ; S. and S.W. the Stenbjerg.
HiSTORr. Down to the middle of the I6th cent, the name of the
town was A'idaros (-mouth of the river Nid' ; Aa, Aar, signifying 'river',
and Os, 'estuary') or Kaupanger i Tmndhjem ('merchant-town in Trond-
hjem'j. Like Upsala in Sweden, Trondhjem, the 'strength and heart
of the country', is the cradle of the kingdom of Norway , and it was
here, on Brat0ren, that the Norwegian kings were elected and crowned.
Here, too, met the famous 0retMng. So early as 996 Olaf Trygvason
founded a palace, and a church which he dedicated to St. Clement. St.
Olaf, who is regarded as the founder of the town (1016), revived the
plans of Olaf Trygvason, which had been neglected after his death, and
after the death of 'the saint' at the battle of Stiklestad (1030) a new im-
pulse was given to building enterprise. For his remains were brought
to Trondhjem and buried there, but afterwards transferred to a reliquary
and placed on the high-altar of St. Clemenfs Church, where they attracted
hosts of pilgrims. The St. Olaf cult gradually made Trondhjem one of
the largest and richest towns in Norway, and gave rise to the erection of
the cathedral and no fewer than fourteen other churches and five mon-
asteries. At a later period terrible havoc was caused by civil wars, pest-
ilence . sieges, and fires; and the pilgrimages, so profitable to the town,
were put an end to by the Reformation. The reliquary of the saint was
removed by sacrilegious hands from the altar in the octagon of the cath-
edral-choir, and his remains were buried in some unknown spot: and
most of the churches and monasteries were swept away. In 1796 the
population numbered 7500, in 1815 not above 10,000, in 1835 about 12,900,
and in 1875 it reached 22,500.
The Streets are widely built (100-120 ft.) in order to diminish
the danger of fire, and generally intersect each other at right
angles. Most of the houses are of timber. The streets running
from N. to S. command views of the beautiful fjord with the island
of Muukholm. The chief are, beginning on the E. side, parallel
with the river, Kjebmands-Gaden, the large warehouses in which
are supported by piles sunk in the river; then Sendre Gaden,
Nordre Gaden, Munke-G aden, and Prindsens-Gaden. Parallel with
the harbour, beginning on the N., are Fjord-Gaden, Strand
(now Olaf-Trygvnsons) Gaden, Dronningens- Gaden, Kongens-
Gaden, Vestre (now Erling Skakkes) Gaden, and 0stre (now Bispe^
Gaden.
In the centre of the town is the Mabket Place (Torvet), where
Munke-Gaden and Kongens-Gaden cross. In the former, a little
to the N., is the Stiftsgaard (PI. 11\ the residence of the 'Stifts-
amtmand' (president or governor of the province), used as a royal
palace on the occasion of coronation festivities. In Kongens-
Gaden is the Fruekirke. Beyond it is the 'Park', embellished with
a small bronze statue of the famous Admiral Tordenskjold, born in
Trondhjem in 1691 (by Bissen). Opposite are the handsome new
Masonic Lodge {^Frimurerloge ; cafe'-restaurant, see p. 220) and the
Savings Bank, which latter also contains the ^unst/breniny (entrance
from Apothekerveiteii ; Sun., 11.30-2, free; Wed., 12-2, 2o e.), and
the Fisheries Museum (entrance from S0ndre-Gadeu ; Mon., Wed.,
222 Route 29.
TRONDHJEM.
Cathedral.
&Frid., 10-1 o'clock). — At Dronningens-Gaden 10 is the Norden-
fjeld Museum of Industrial Art [open free daily 12-5, Sun. 12-2).
Munke-Gaden, in -wliicli the new red building of the Technical
Academy is conspicuous to the left, ends on the S. opposite the N.
transept of the old cathedral. The entrance for visitors is in the
chapter-house (K on the Plan), to the S. of the choir.
The *Cathedral, in plan and in execution the grandest church
in Scandinavia, was founded by King Olaf Kyrre over the tomb of
St. Oia/" (comp. p. 221), and considerably enlarged after the erection
of Trondhjem into an archbishopric in 1151. Eystein (1161-88),
the third archbishop, who in consequence of a quarrel with King
Sverre (p. 1) fled to England and remained there three years,
Ground Plan of the Cathedral: Romanesque parts black, Gothic
parts shaded.
afterwards returned and built the present transept on the site of
the former nave (see Ground Plan C), with a tower in the centre,
and the *Chapter House (PI. K), both in the late-Romanesque style
under English influence. To these Eystein's successor added the
*Choir (Pl.B), terminating in an exquisite octagonal apse (PI. A),
which covered the revered relics of St. Olaf, the chief treasure
of the church. We find here developed, with the aid of favourable
material (bluish saponite or soapstone, Norwegian 'klajbersten'
from quarries to the E. of Trondhjem, and marble from the quarries
of Almenningen, p. 233), all the decorative splendour of early Gothic,
mingled with Romanesque features, with traces of elaborate class-
ical treatment and indications of exuberant imagination. During
a fourth building period, 1248-1300, was added the grand Nave
(Pl.D), also in the Gothic style, but with stronger leanings towards
English models. The cathedral has been repeatedly injured by Are,
in 1328 so seriously that the greater part of the choir had to be rebuilt.
In 1432 it was struck by lightning. In 1531 a terrible fire destroyed
Cathtdral. TRONDHJEM. 2,9. Route. 228
both the cathedral and tlie rest of the town. The adoption of the
ReforiiiatioTi in 1537 caused the work of restoration to be limited
to the most urgent repairs. In 1708 and 1719 the church was again
ravaged by fire. Since 1869, when the E. part was re-roofed, while
the W. part from the transept onwards lay in ruins, the cathedral
has been undergoing a thorough and judicious restoration under the
able superintendence of the architect Hr. Christie, who has used or
carefully reproduced all the available details of the original structure.
The chapter-house and the choir with its octagonal apse and elah-
orate S. portal [Konyeindyangen, royal entrance) are now completed.
The great central tower, whose low-pitched roof is surrounded,
English fashion, by four corner-turrets, was completed in 1901.
The restoration of the remainder will probably take several more
decades, but will doubtless he accomplished , as the Norwegians
are justly proud of this great national monument, and as funds
are provided by the state, by the Trondhjem Savings Bank, and
by private subscription (about 100,000 kr. per annum).
The Intekiok is open to tlie public 12-1.30 and 6-7.80 o'clock, on Sun-
days 1-2.30 only (donation to funds expected). — We first enter the
Romanesque Chapter House (PI. K; comp. p. 222) and pass through it
into the E. end of the church with its octagonal dome (PI. A), executed
in a rich Gothic style. The silver reliquary of St. Olaf once preserved
here, 225 lbs. in weight, was removed to Copenhagen at the time of the
Reformation. From the ambulatory a side-door leads to St. Olafs Sprint/
(PI. o), which probably determined the site of the church. A staircase
(closed during the public hours of admission) ascends to the Triforium
and Clerestory, which afford a good view of the church. The apse is ad-
joined by tlie E. Nave (PI. B), which is partitioned oflf from the Transei'T
(PI. C; now in restoration) and is at present used for the Sunday services.
The white marble columns contrast beautifully with the greyish-blue of
the saponite walls. The light-coloured stained-glass windows were executed
in England. Above the apsidal arch is a figure of Christ. — The sacristan
opens the door leading to the Romanesque Transept (PI. C). The stained-
glass in the 2nd cliapel is from Cologne. — We may also visit the Nave
(PI. 1)), which is at present used as the restorer's workshop.
In the 11th and 12th centuries the cathedral was the burial-place of
the kings, and several were afterwards crowned here. By the constitution
of Norway (1814) the kings must be crowned here, and this was done in
the case of Charles XIV. John in 1818, Charles XV. in 1860, and Oscar II.
in 1873. — Important works on the cathedral have been published by P.
A. Munch, Schirmer (Norwegian), and Minutoli (German).
To the E. and S.E. of the cathedral is the Churchyard, many of
the graves in which, in Norwegian fashion, are adorned with fresh
llowers every Saturday. A monument on its N. side commemorates
Thomas Anyell (1692-1767), founder of the adjacent hospital. Ad-
jacent is the Artillery Arsenal, on the site of the old Kongs Oaard
(PI. 1), which was once the residence of the archbishop.
The Academy of Science (del kyl. norske Videnskahers Selskab),
Erling Skakkes (formerly Vestre) Gaden 47, founded in 1760, once
numbered Scheniiig, Suhm, Gunnerus, and other learned men
among its members. It possesses a library of 70,000 vols., large
natural history collections (especially animals and minerals of the
224 Route 29. TRONPHJEM. WuUck.
N.), and antiquities from Trondlijems-Stift (adm. free on Sun. &
Wed., 12-1.30; at other times, 25 e. ). TLe small 'Stavekirke' of
the 14tli cent., in the court, was brought from Holtaalen in 1884
and restored with the aid of the W. wall of the church of Aalen.
Walks. — Towards the East we may cross the upper bridge
over the Nid (the Bxjhro , E. of the cathedral) to the suburb of
Baklandel, and thence, by a path to the left, ascend to (1/4 hr.)
the fortress of *Christiansten (236 ft.), which was erected in the
17th century. The flre-station, marked by a flagstaff, affords a
picturesque view of the town and environs, especially by morning
light. — From the Blasevoldbakke (358 ft.) the view is more
extensive, but there is no point which commands a complete sur-
vey. — Passing through the suburb of Baklandet, where we ob-
serve large engine-works and a shipbuilding-yard, we may go
towards the N.E., across the Meraker railway (p. 226), via Lade-
moen, to ('/o hr.) Ladehammertn ('Hammer', headland).
Towards the West the town was formerly enclosed by forti-
fications. On their site rises the modern Jhlenskirke (PI. 6), built
of blue quartz-sandstone. Beyond is the suburb of Ihleu (iO min.
from the Torv), with a Roman Catholic church and hospital (PI. 4).
On the fjord are extensive timber-yards and some pleasure-grounds.
A picturesque view of Trondhjem (especially effective by
evening-light), with the winding Nid in the foreground, the hills
to the E., and the extensive fjord, is obtained from *Aasveien, a
new road ascending the slope of the Stenbjerg and passing several
villas. The road should be followed to a point about 1 M. from the
Ihlen church. The blunted summit, near which another road passes,
was once crowned with a castle of King Sverre (Sverresborg).
Passing Tivoli, a pleasure-resort at Ihlen, on the left, a road
ascends to the W. On the slope of the hill we observe several old
coast-lines (p. xxxiv), 523 ft. and 580 ft. above the sea-level,
and corresponding with similar lines on the mountains on the E.
side of the fjord. The higher we ascend the finer becomes the
* View we obtain, looking back towards Trondhjem and the fjord
and the snow-mountains on the Swedish frontier. Beyond Gram-
skaret (3/4 hr. from the church of Ihlen), where we pass through a
gate, the view to the E. disappears. Before us, in 10 min. more,
appears the top of Graakallen (1840 ft.), to which two paths ascend
to the left: one 20 min. from Gramskaret, leading by Tungen and
the Fjeld-Sceter ; the other 10 min. farther on, passing Tempervold
and the Kobberdamm. On the way is the Fjeldsceter Hotel mentioned
on p. 220. The top (21/2-3 hrs. from the Torv of Trondhjem; refuge-
hut) commands an extensive survey of fjord and fjeld.
A bad path, almost impassable after rain, diverges from the road to the
right, V2 M. beyond Tempervold, leads round the OJeitfjeld, mostly through
underwood and afterwards overlooking the fjord, and then descends past
the old coast lines and the rifle-range ('■Skyl'lerfmset') to Ihlen.
Excursions. TKONDHJEM. 29. Roule. 225
The TroUavei, running to the N. fromlblen, and affording fine
views of the fjord, leads to (5 Kil.) the iron-foundry of TroUabruk.
In the fjord, about [^/o ^^^- to t^c N. of the town, lies the
fortified island of Munkholmen (by boat in 20 min. ; with one
rower for one pers. 1, two or more pers. II/2 kr. ; with two rowers
I'/o or 2 kr. ; bargain advisable; admission free; a soldier acts as
guide). This 'Monks' Island' was once the site of a Benedictine
nioTiastcry, founded in 1028, of which the lower part of a round
tower is the only relic. Count I'eler Griffcnfeldt (p. Ixxiv), the
minister of Christian V., was confined in a cell here from 1680 to
1698. The island is described by Victor Hugo in his 'Han d'ls-
lande'. Beautiful view from the walls of the fortress.
The ExcuKSioN to the two falls of the Nid near the gaard of Leren,
about 8 Kil. to the S. of Trondhjem, is best made by driving (cariole 5, one-
horse carr. f(ir 2 pers. 8, 'kaleschvogn' 12, landau 14 kr. ; ^/2-liiT. extra for
every hour beyond four). The road traverses the suburb of Ihlen and fol-
lows the left bank of the river. Or we may go by train to Selsbcek (6 Kil.),
where the slow trains stop, and walk thence to the falls O/2 hr.). The
lower or Lille Lerfos i.s 76 ft. high. Good view of it from the veranda
of the *Fosses(ue7i Restaurant, in the early-Norwegian style. Well-kept paths
lead to the foot of the Lille Lerfos and to the upper or Store Lerfos
(100 ft. high), which is broken by a mass of rock about halfway across.
An ExcLKsiON TO THE S.v:LBO-Sj0 takes two days. Ist Day, by rail-
way to Ileimdal (p. 78), and walk thence to Teigen, or drive (skyds-station
at the railway-station of Heimdal) to Brettun (17 Kil., pay for 21), both
situated at the W. end of the Baelbo-Sja or Selhu-Sje (525 ft.), a line
sheet of water, 29 Kil. long and 575 ft. deep, on which a small steamboat
plies live times weekly in summer. On the 8.E. bank of the lake, near
the church ol Scvlbo, and by the mouth of the Nid which descends from the
Ti/dal, lie Marienhorg and the Swlbo Sanatorium (landlord speaks Engli.^h ;
good .shooting near), where we spend the night. — 2nd Day, row (7 Kil.)
or drive (15 Kil.) to Setsaas on the N. bank, and drive by (7 Kil.) Fuglem and
(12 Kil.) Viken to (12 Kil.) Hommelvik on the Meraker railway (see below).
A pleasant trip may be taken by the Steamer which plies once or
twice daily (in 3V2-4'/4 hrs.) to Levanger (p. 226). The most important
stopping-places d-va Ifolmberget on the peninsula of i^oo«/e?j (opposite which,
on the W., is the small Ttilere, with the ruins of the Cistercian monastery
of Tantra, founded in 1207); Leksriken, on the W. bauk ; and Hokstad, on
the large island of Yttereen , where sulphur- ores are mined. — From
Levanger the steamer goes on to Stenkjar (p. 227) and Foosnces.
From Trondhjem to Storlien (6ster.-<und, Stockholm).
106 Kil. Railway (Merakerbanm) in 4^/4 hrs.; two trains daily (fares
5 kr. 8i. 3 kr. 46 0.). To Hommelvik in 1^4 2 hrs., several trains (fares
1 kr. 23, 76 0.).
The train crosses the Nid by a long bridge. To the right lies
the suburb ofBaklandet; then, on the left, the church oi Lade.
Beyond (3 Kil.) Leangen is the lunatic asylum of Rotvold, on the
left. We now skirt the fjord, here called the Strindefjord, and
farther on, the Stjerdalsfjord. 7 Kil. Ranheiin ; 15 Kil. Malvik.
23 Kil. Hommelvik (small inn), with a brisk trade in timber.
(Road to the Salbo-Sje', see above. Fine view from the hill about
1 hr. inland.) Short tunnel. ..
Baedekek's Korway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 15
226 R.29. — Map, p.23-2. MERAKER. Excursivns from
32 Kil. Hell, the junction of the railway to Levanger (see
below), lies at the mouth of the Stjerdals-Elv, crossed by a bridge
to the skyds-station of Sandferhus. — The line now runs inland,
ascending the left bank of the Stj0rdals-Elv. The green valley
is flanked with woods of birch and flr. 42 Kil. Hegre, near the
mouth of the Forra , descending from the N.E. ; 57 Kil. Floren.
Waterfalls on both sides. At (72 Kil.) Oudaaen (279 ft.) we cross
the Reinaa. Tunnel. Then a considerable ascent, through pleasant
scenery, and across the Stjerdals-Elv to —
81 Kil. (501/2 M.) Meraker (722 ft.), a thriving and prettily
situated little town , the last in Norway. Beautiful view from
the station. Near it, an old copper-mine. — The line ascends
rapidly. The district becomes lonely, the vegetation scarity. The
station of Tovmodalen lies 1350 ft. above the sea. The Areskutan
(p. 384) and other snow-mountains of Sweden appear in the dis-
tance. We cross the Swedish frontier (1825 ft.) and reach —
106 Kil. Storlien (1945 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; seep. 386), the
continuation of the line beyond which is Swedish (R. 58).
From Trondhjem, by Stenkjaer, Snaasenvand, and Fiskumfos , to
Namsos.
Railway from Trondhjem to (84 Kil.) Levanger in ca. 3 hrs. (fares
4 kr. 20, 2 kr. 60 0.). — Eoad from Levanger to (51 Kil.) Slenkjwr and
thence to (12 Kil.) Sunde, on the Snaasenvand, with fast stations. — Steamer
from Sunde to Sem four times a week in 4V2 hrs. (fare 2 kr. 10 0.). —
Road, with fast stations, from Sem to Fiskiim 56 Ki)., and thence to
Namsos 71 Kil. — While this is a fine route, it should be noted that the
Fiskumfos is not in full force after the middle of July. If the steamers
suit it can be accomplished in 4 days. Those who content themselves
with a visit to the Trondhjems-Fjord may go from Stenkjser to Namsos
in one day. The stretch between Trondhjem, Levanger, and Stenkjser can
be traversed by the steamer mentioned on p. 225.
From Trondhjem to (32 Kil.) Hell, see pp. 225, 226. — The
railway to Levanger (opened in 1902) crosses the Stjerdals-Elv,
passes (35 Kil.) Stjerdalen, skirts the fjord for some distance, and
then turns inland. — 42 Kil. Skatvold; 51 Kil. Langstein; 62 Kil.
Aasen, in the pretty Hammervand district; 70 Kil. Ronglan;
76 Kil. Skogn.
84 Kil. Levanger {Backlund's Hotel, very fair), a prettily situated
little town with 1750 inhab. and a few factories, almost entirely
burned down in 1897, but since rebuilt.
A road with fast stations ascends from Levanger through the Verdal,
which, however, was devastated in 1893 by huge volumes of water forcing
their way up from the limestone strata below the surface. 14 Kil. (pay for
15} Skjerdalen; 11 Kil. Garnws; 19 Kil. SuUtuen (good station); 22 Kil. (pay
for 33) Skaltiugan (good quarters), the first Swedish station. From this
point we may walk (with guide) to the Skalsje (1930 ft.), cross this lake
by boat, and ascend the fjeld to an Encampment of Lappt (comp. p. 253),
to be found here in summer (.3-4 hrs. from Skalstugan).
Trondhjem. STENKJiER. Map,p.23'2. —29. R. 227
The good KoAi) from Levangcr to Stenkjrer (railway in con-
struction) leads at lirst to the E. to —
12 Kil. Verdalseren, on the left hank of the Verdals-Elv, here
crossed by a bridge. [About 4 Kil. inland lie the gaard of Stikle-
slad and the church of Verdal, built in memory of the battle of
29th July, 1030, in which St. Olaf was slain (comp. p. 2211.]
From Verdalseren our road leads to the N. past the church of
Salhcrg (8 Kil.) and forks: the right branch leads to R0skje (good
quarters) and Stenkjsr (30 Kil.), the left leads via Stremmen to
Stenkjser (34 Kil.). The latter branch is the finer route. It ascends
the Rolsbakker, at the top of which, not far from the gaard 0vre
Rol, we admire the view of the peninsula of Inderecn and the is-
land of Yttereen, of the Borgenfjord to the right and the Yttere-
fjord to the left. We descend, pass the Amtmand's gaard of
Sund, and cross a bridge over the strait between the two fjords
to Stremmen (7 Kil. from Salberg; good quarters at the Land-
handler's, P. Aas). The road then leads to the left to (2 Kil.) the
new church and the station of' —
17 Kil. Saxhaug (good quarters). The hill on which the old
church stands is a fine point of view. Those who do not require
to change horses at Saxhaug drive straight on from Stremmen (thus
saving 4 Kil.). The country is well ciiltivated.. Road hilly. Beyond
(11 Kil.) Korsen we join the road coming from Reskje on the right.
11 Kil. Stenkjeer ( Thorbjernsen s Hotel; Langli Hotel), a town
of 2000 inhab., practically rebuilt after a great fire in 1900, is
prettily situated at the mouth of the By-Elv, which descends from
the Snaasenvand and is here crossed by a bridge.
From Stenkj^r to Namsos (p. 234), 85 Kil. (fast stations): 16 Kil.
(pay for 17) j0Hvik (good quarters), on the NJrllebotn, the inmost bay of
the Beilstfid/Jord. Then across the watershed (300 ft.) to the Namsenfjord.
15 Kil. Elden (290 ft.); 18 Kil. Redhammer (good quarters-, steamer-.'station) ;
16 Kil. 5a«3.«und (22 Kil. from Xamsos by water); 11 Kil. SpiUum. From
Spillum 3 Kil. more to the Stremhylla Ferry; thence we row across the
fjord (4 Kil.) or drive (8 Kil.) to Namsos.
The road to the Snaasenvand ascends on the right bank of the
By-Elv, which forms a fall by the gaard of By, and then passes the
Reinsuand, the Fossumvandj and a number of farms.
11 Kil. Sunde (good quarters) lies at the S.W, end of the Snaa-
senvand (78 ft. ; 46 Kil. long), a beautiful sheet of water enclosed
by wooded and rocky hills. On the N. bank runs a road with poor
stations. We prefer the steamboat (p. 226 ; if available), the pier
of which is at the gaard Nestvolden, beyond the bridge, and which
carries us in 41/2 hrs. to —
Sem (good quarters). — Thence round the E. end of the lake,
and by a beautiful, but hilly road, to the Snaasetiheia. Beyond the
highest point of the latter (804 ft.) the new road diverges to the
right and descends in to the pretty valley of the Sandela, which
here (at the bridge) forms the fine Formofos. We descend on
15*
228 Ii.'J9. — Map,p.-J32. FISKUMFOS.
the right bank of the stream and skirt the E. slope of the Gjeitfjeld
C2580 ft.).
27 Kil. (pay for 33) Formo (good quarters). Still keeping near
the winding Sandprla, we reach the Namsen-Elv , which we cross
(about 172 Kil. from the mouth of the Sandftla) and so join the
Namsos and Fiskum road, 5 Kil. to the E. of Vie (see below); to
the left is the church of Grong (see below). We follow this road
to the E., along the right bank of the Namsen-Elv, to —
12 Kil. Fossland (197 ft.). The road, which to a great extent
has here been blasted out of the rock, crosses the mouth of the
Gartlands-Elv, and ascends the marshy slope of the Aurstadfjeld
( 1355 ft.), passing the gaards of Gartland (owned by Mr. Merthyr
Guest) and Aurstad, where we enjoy a view of striking beauty.
We now descend to the farm -buildings (good quarters) on the
Fiskumfos, a fall of the Namsen-Elv, 105ft. in height and of
great volume (not unlike the Rhine Fall at Schatfhausen), but apt
to dwindle towards August. The little house below the dairy affords
a good view of the fall. A flight of steps made by the Tourists'
Club descends to the foot of it, but is in bad condition (1903). —
About 1 Kil. farther on, 17 Kil. from Fossland, lies the station of
1-lskem or Fiskum (good accommodation).
From Fiskum to Namsos , down the wooded Namdal , a long
day's journey (9-10 hrs. , excluding stoppages). The valley is
well peopled and at places its scenery is fine.
17 Kil. Fossland, and thence to the end of the road coming
from the Snaasenvand, and past the church of Grong (see above).
11 Kil. (from Fossland) Vie, a great resort of English anglers,
the Namsen-Elv being considered one of the best salmon-rivers in
P^urope. The fishings are let. Nearly 1 Kil. farther on is the gaard of
Ler (good quarters) at the foot of the Holoklumpen (1370 ft.). The
road skirts the river and the base of the Spanfjeld (1560 ft.), and
passes the old church of Rauem.
17 Kil. Haugum, in Raiiemslelten, a tolerably well-peopled
district.
About 2 Kil. t(i the E. oi Haugum a post-road diverges to the N., passing
Flasnces (good quarters) and skirting the E. bank of the Eidsvand, to
(11 Kil.) Oalgeften and (11 Kil.) Merkved ; then past the church of Heland
to (17 Kil.) Plot, and down the Rosendals-Elv to (17 Kil.) Kongsmo, at the
heftd of the inner Foldenfjord (p. 234).
The road traverses the marshy Tramyr.
11 Kil. Hun, near the church of Skage. We descend along the
left bank of the Reinhjer-Elv and cross it near its influx into the
Namsen-Elv. We finally follow the latter stream, which is of
considerable breadth and skirts the foot of the Aalbergfjeld.
15 Kil. Namsos (p. 234).
NORTHERN NORWAY.
Route Piit';e
General Remarks 229
:»0. From Trondhjem to Bodw 233
TUe Foldenfjurd, Bindalsfjora, and Velljord 234-236
The Duuderlandsdal, Beieiendal, Saltdal, and Junkeisdal 237,238
Excursions from Boder : the Beierenfjord, Saltenfjord
and Skjerstadfjord, Sulitelma, and Landegode . 241-243
31. The Lofoten Islands 243
Vesteraalen 247
32. From Bode to Tromse 248
TUe Fdldonfjiiid, Ofcitenfjord, and Skjonicnijord . . .243,249
From Maal.9na'3 to the Kustavand, to Strveien, and to tlio
Balsfjord .251,252
33. From Tromsa to the North Capo 254
The Ulfsjurd 255
Excursions in the Lyngen District 256
TheAltenfjord. From the Altenfjord to Vad30 via Karajok. 2fS
34. From the North Cape to Vadse 2G2
3;'). Syd-Varangor 2G()
30. From the Altentjord to Haparanda in Sweden . . . 207
37. From llammerfest to Spitzbergen 208
Communication with the Nordland is maintained chiefly by the
steamers of the united companies Ikryenske and NordenfjcUhke
Dainp^kiba-Selskab (p. xviii). The Tourist Steamers alone touch
at the North Cape (twice a week). I'esides these boats, the Mail
Steamers ply throughout the year, leaving Trondhjem once weekly
for Hammerfest (Line II) and twice weekly for Vadse (Lines I <<:
III). Tlie steamers of the 'llurtigrute' (fast route) of the same com-
panies, and the steamer 'Vesteraalen', of the VeslercKilens Damp-
skilis-Selskab, also ply once a week from Trondhjem to the Lofoten
Islands and Hammerfest; passengers by these change at Hammer-
fest for the North Cape steamer. Besides all these, several British
vessels , carrying tourists only , start at least once weekly from
London, Hull, Leith, etc., for the North Cape (see p. xiii; or
enquire of Messrs. T. Cook and Son); also several German boats
from Hamburij and Bremen, and Danish boats from Stettin.
The course of the Tourist Steamers (see time-tables issued
by the agents mentioned at p. xiv) is usually as follows: — Dep.
Trondhjem Mon. and Thurs. in the evening; arr. at Svarllfen Tncs.
and Frid. evening ; then a splendid voyage tliroujih tlio Lofoten
Islands; arr. at Tromae on Wed. and Sat. afternoon (halt of 3 hrs.) ;
15, 10
230 NORDLAND.
arr. at Hammer fest Thurs. and Sun. morning; the sea-fowl islands
of Stappene are passed in the afternoon, and the North Cape (p. 261)
is reached in the evening. — lleturn - voyage : Dep. North Cape
on Frid. and Mon. mornings; arr. in the evening at tlie Lynj^en-
fjord; arr. at Tromse on Sat. and Tues. mornings and at the
Lofoten (liaflsund) in the evening; at Torghatten on Sun. and
Wed. evenings, and at Trondhjem on Mon. and Thurs. mornings.
The whole trip from Trondhjem to the North Cape and hack thus
takes less than 7*/2 days by the tourist-steamers.
The tourist-steamers are comfortably fitted up. But they are
generally crowded, as they afford the easiest and speediest access to
the sights of the Nordland; and the life on board, as in a large
hotel, is apt to pall.
TUe Fares IN THE TouitisT Steamers fur the whole voyage, including food,
are as follows : — bei-th in a stateroom containing one, two, or three berths,
250-300 kr. (132. ISs.; ibl.; IQl. 13«. 6rf.), according to position and accom-
modation ; cabin-fare, with a berth in the fore-cabin, 222 kr. (i.21. As. Qd.).
Steward's fee included in the fare. Single tickets, but nut return-tickets,
are issued for sections of the voyage. Ko reduction is made for families.
— The tourist-agents and the hotel-keepers at Trondhjem let comfortable
steamer-chairs for the voyage (3'/2 kr.).
The Mail Steamers call at numerous stations and take i^/4-S
days for the voyage from Trondhjem to Bode, 2-5 days to Tromse,
and 372-6 days to Hammer fest. Thence through the Mageresund
(p. 262) to Vadse, 2'/2 days more. The whole voyage from Trondhjem
to Vadse and back takes about 17 days. The mail-steamers are but
little inferior to the tourist-steamers in point of equipment and
commissariat, and though they do not touch at the North Cape,
they make frequent stoppages of one or more days, thus giving time
for many interesting excursions on shore. At the same time, some
of the longest halts are made at the least interesting points, espe-
cially on the return-voyages after the end of July, when the loading
of the enormous cargoes of herring sometimes delays the steamer
24 hrs. or more beyond the advertised time.
The Fares in the mail-steaniers are reckoned by mileage, the first
cabin, which is alone recommended, costing 40 0. per Norwegian sea-
mile. The fare from Trondhiem to Sodii (76 sea-miles) thus amounts to
30 kr. 40 0., to Tromse (125 M.) 50 kr., to Hammer/esl (155 M.) 62 kr., to
Varde (171 M.) 80 kr., to Vadsei (210 M.) 84 kr. Return-tickets ('Tur og
Retur') should be taken for sections only, as the journey may not be
broken. Return-tickets are valid for six months and are available for the
'Vesteraalen' (p. 229), but not for the tourist-steamers. — As to charges
for food , see p. xix. — Each steamer carries a small Post Office,
which also undertakes the transmission of telegrams. Passengers may
receive telegrams at Trondhjem, Nainsos (p. 234; not touched at by the
tourist-steamers), Hennin</sva'r (p. 246), Ledingen (p. 249), ifaciiaii (p. 250),
Tromse (p. 252), or Hammerfest (p. 259). These should be addressed to the
recipient, 'Passager (name of steumer), Dampskibskonlor (name of slatiou)\
The captain, males, and post-office officials generally speak English.
One drawback to the Nordland voyage is the difficulty of getting
rest. As there is scarcely an uninteresting point on the wliole
voyage, and as it is always day in the height of summer, the trav-
NORDLAND. 231
eller is naturally anxious to see everything : but all who wish to
avoid over-fatigue aud nervous exhaustion should sleep for at least
4-0 hrs. after midnight aud an hour or two after dinner. As the
sofa-berths in the general cabin require to be vacated by a.m.,
those who desire to sleep in comfort should secure a berth in one
of the staterooms. The traveller should therefore apply beforehand
at the steamboat-offices at ISergen or Troudhjem, or to one of the
agents at Christiania, Hamburg, London, Newcastle, or Leitli. On
receiving a reply that the berths desired are still disengaged, the
applicant should remit the amount of the fare at once, as other-
wise the berth will not be reserved. Unless previously bespoken,
a berth is rarely obtainable except in the general cabin. — As
nearly the whole voyage is within the island-belt ('indenskj£ers'),
sea-sickness is rare. — The Pilots ('Lodser'), as well as the cap-
tains and crews , are generally obliging and well informed. Two
pilots navigate each vessel on the different stages of the voyage,
one of them being always on duty.
Landing by means of one of the 'Ranenbaade' (p. 237) that
swarm round the steamer on entering a harbour, costs 10-20 ei. (the
'taxt' or tariff sliould be demanded). — The time on board the
steamers is altered daily to that of each locality, a fact to be remem-
bered by passengers going on shore.
The physical characteristics of the Norwegian coast will not
fail to interest even the most experienced traveller. Weather,
winds, fogs, the play of light and shade, the purity of the air, are
all peculiar to the country. Even the Alpine tourist will be at
fault here in trying to estimate distances. Perhaps the trip from
Tacoma and Victoria to Sitka, along the coast of Alaska, offers tlie
closest analogy within reach of the ordinary tourist (see Baedeker's
United Stales or Baedeker s Canada). The animal kingdom is of
extraordiuary richness. The sea teems with cod, herrings, skate, and
other fish. Narwhals 6-12 ft. long, dolphins leaping from the water,
porpoises, and other denizens of the ocean are seen (best from the
bows of the vessel) disporting themselves in every direction, but
whales are rarely visible. At certain places nestle swarms of eider
ducks, whose swimming and diving powers are very remarkable,
enabling thein to dive twenty fathoms or more for the little crabs
and other <;rustacea on which they live. Everywhere the air is full
of sea-gulls, which are often robbed of their prey by the skua (Lest-
ris parasitica, pomarina, cataractes), whicli, unable to lish for it-
self, compels them to drop their booty.
The most striking scenery extends from the Arctic Circle
{Ilestmande, p. 239) to the Lofoten Islands (R. 31) and tlie S. end
of Ilinde (l.jjdingen), where stupendous mountains and gla-
<'.icrs are seen close to the sea. Of majestic beauty is the island
scenery of the Arctic Oceai\ beyond Troiiise, by thi> Futjle (p. lUb)
and the Lync/enfjnrd (p. 2r)r>). Uejoiul llaiinnerftst tin* scenery
232
NORDLAND.
becomes severe and desolate. At the North Cape Europe termin-
ates, and the Arctic regions begin. — The best points for pass-
engers by the mail-steamers to break their journey are: Bode, for
excursions to the Saltentjoid (p. 241 ; interesting at higli-water only)
and the Sulitelma (p. 242); Svolvar or Diyerrmden, for an excur-
sion to the Lofoten Islands (p. 243) or for the ascent of the
Digermulkollen by moonlight (one of the finest points of the journey
in suitable weather); I'romse, for the Ulfsfjord and Lyngenfjord
(p. 255); and Harnmerfest, for tlio ascent of Tyven (p. 2B0).
Inns are found in all the larger places; and elsewliere travellers
are nearly always well received at the houses of the 'Landhandlere',
which, however, have nothing in common with ordinary hotels,
except that the traveller pays for his entertainment.
The best Season for a cruise to the North Cape is between
20th June and 15th August. Before the middle of June the
mountains are still covered with snow, and the vegetation in the
valleys is not fully developed , and after the middle of August
the nights become longer. The success of the journey is, of course,
dependent upon the weather, which may cause disappointment at
any season.
The Midnight Sun , visible only within the Arctic Circle
(60°32'30"), is seen as follows: —
Places
For the first time.
For the last time.
Upper
Blargin
Centre
Whole
Disk
Whole
Disk
Centre
Upper
Margin
liude
Tromse
Hwrnimrftit
North Cape
30th Jlav
18th - '
13th -
nth -
1st June
19th May
14th -
12th -
3rd June
20th May
16th -
13th -
8th July
22nd - "
27 th -
30th -
10th July
24 th -
28th -
31st -
12th July
25th - ■
29th -
Ist Aug.
Passengers by the tourist-steamers have three or four oppor-
tunities of seeing the midnight sun, once at the Vaagsfjord beyond
Harstadhavn (p. 250), again off the Fugle (p. 255), again from the
North Cape (p. 261), and a fourth time on leaving the Lyngen-
fjord, in the direction of the Fugle. Passengers by the mail-boats
who make excursions inland also have several opportunities of seeing
it (pp. 248, 2(il), but from the mail-boat itself it is scarcely visible
owing to the islands which obscure the horizon. It must, however,
be remembered that a perfectly clear sunset is still rarer here
than in lower latitudes, and that the northern horizon is very apt
to be veiled in cloud and mist. The sublimity of the spectacle has
been described by Carlyle, Bayard Taylor, and many others.
Midnattssoleii p& bergen sail
tilodriid till alt sk&da;
Det var ej dug, det var ej natl,
Bet viiijde emelltm hada. (Tegntr.)
I i«\^i'i^ii««i.iTi I %/i\\/iirti I L.1^
^t
^"-K. ./^T
"^■^^^^Mti - -^
^^
r
\\_4i»^
-A,
_!ii_
BEIAN. 30. Route. 233
The midnight sun on the mountain lay
And bloodred was its hue;
It was not night, it was not day,
But wavered 'twixt the two.
The Blaps in this Handbook (four sections, the places where they join
being indicated by corresponding marks; see p. x), though of small scale
(1 : 1,500,000), show the usual courses of the steamboats and will probably
suffice for most travellers. Fulness of detail has been .subordinated to
clearness. The course ot the mail-steamers is indicated by , that
of the tourist-steamers by — . — . — . Several other interesting routes are
marked . As mentioned at p. xxix, the best of the larger maps
arc Cnmmermeyer^s Reisekarl over det nordlige Norge (scale 1 : 800,000 ; price
4kr.) and/). (U'rbiiinj,h:n s Lomme |l'ocket| Atlas over Norge ^ the Nordland
maps of which ore very clear (price 3 kr. 50 0.).
Travellers by mail-steamer should provide themselves with the latest
issue of the Cominnnicalioner .
The Distancet between the principal stations are given as usual in
Norwegian sea-miles (see p. vi).
30. From Trondhjem to Bod0.
76 S.M. (about 310 Engl. M.). The actual course of the steamers is,
however, much longer, varying according to the number of stations called
at (42 in all). The Mail Steameks take 13-15 hrs. to reach Namsos (fare
12 kr. 40 «r.), and 42-44 hrs. (on some voyages 48-5'2 hrs.) to reach Boda
(fare 30 kr. 40 er.1. The express-steamer 'Vksteuaalen', touching at Rjrrvik,
Br0n0, and .Sandufcsuen , reaches Bode in 28 hr.i. The Tocrist Boats
do not touch at Bodisr on their N. voyage.
The voyage through the outer Trondhjeras-Fjord and along the
coast beyond it is at first comparatively uninteresting. The first
.station is liedbjeryet, with the ruined nunnery of Rein, on the N.
bank of the fjord, an<l the old mansion of Bstraat in the distance.
7 S.M. Bdan (p. 215), where travellers from the S. may join
the nortliward-bound steamers without going to Trondhjem. Reian
lies at the end of the flat peninsula of Oreland, with its numerous
farms, on the S.E. side of which stretches the SIcJer en fjord.
The vessel now steers to the N. On tlie left is tlie large red
liglithouse known as Kjexmgen ('the goat'l; on tlie right stretches
the large peninsula of Fosev, formed by tlic sea and the long fjord
of Trondhjem. To the W. are the islands of Stor Fosen and the
T<jrij-0er.
5 S.M. Vuldersund. The Nordlandnjmgtc, with their lofty bows,
and rigged with a single square- sail ('Raaseil') and a topsail
('Skvaerseil' or 'Topseil'), are frequently seen here on their way
to the 'Tydskebrygge' or German Quay at Bergen, deeply laden
with dried fish. But these craft are gradually being superseded by
steamers.
3 S.M. Stoksund. To the N. are four caverns , the largest of
which is Hardbakhukn, by the gaard of Hardlxtk. To the W. lie
the Linese and Stoke.
2 S.M. Sijdkroge. To the N.W. lies the island of Almenningcn.
234 R. 30. — Map, p. 232. NAMSOS. From Trondhjem
containing the quarries wliicli furnished the marble lor Trond-
hjem cathedral {\>. 222). Fish spread out on the rocks to dry begin
to be seen here; in winter they are'hung on 'Hjelder', or wooden
frames. Eider-ducks abound. — 2 S.M. Besaker.
1 S. M. Ramse. The black and white rings on the rocks
'T0rneringe'), resembling targets, indicate the position of iron
stanchions for mooring vessels ('Maerker')- The maintenance of
these rings ('Ringvffisen'), like that of the lighthouses and pilots
('Fyrv£esen', 'Lodsv;rsen'), is under government. The number of
lights required in the 'Skjffirgaard' is, of course, very great. — For
the next two hours we traverse the open Foldensje, which is pro-
longed towards the N.E. by the Foldenfjord (not to be confounded
with the fjord of that name to the N. of Bodo, p. 248). The water
here is often rough.
5 S.M. Bjere. The mail-steamer now steers to the S.E. into the
Namsenfjord, which is separated from the Redsund to the N.E. by
the long winding island of Ottere. The scenery improves as we
ascend the fjord. Namsos does not come in sight until we have
rounded the long promontory of Marranes.
6 S.M. (from Trondhjem 81) Namsos (A. Jenssen's Hotel;
British vice-consul and Lloyd's agent, Mr. J. Somnierscldeld), a
town of 2300 inhab., charmingly situated on the N. bank of the
Namsen-Elv, was founded in 1845 and has been rebuilt twice after
destructive fires, in 1872 and 1897. It has a large timber-trade
and some saw-mills. From the Church, which stands on a rocky
hill in the middle of the town, we follow Stor-Gaden, then cross
the fields to the left, and finally ascend some rock-steps to (1/2 lir.)
the view-pavilion on the Bjerxunklampen (360 ft.).
Excursion up the Namdal to the Fiskumfos, see p. 228.
From Namsos to Kongsmo. A small steamboat plies once a week to
the Indre Foldenfjord. .Stations: Servik, Seiersiad, Lund, etc. From the
terminus Konc/smo a skyds-road leads to Haugum (p. 228).
We now steer through the strait of Lokkuren and the pretty
Serviksund, past the W. and N. side of the Otterer. 3 S.M. Fu$-
landsosen. Then through the narrow Redsund, and across the part-
ly unsheltered Foldenfjord. — 4 S.M. Appelvcvr [Brandzteg's Hotel),
a small island with a fish-cannery at the mouth of the Indre Folden-
fjord. We thread our way through a maze of islets, passing the
Ncere on the right.
3 S.M. Rervik (Anzjen's Hotel, very fair; telegraph -station,
oomp. p. 235), on the island of Indre Vigten ; to the W. are Melleni
Vigten and Ytre Vigten, on which rise the Sulafjeld (600 ft.) and
Dragstind (525 ft.).
3 S.M. Risvar. — 2 S.M. Fjeldnik.
To the left is the island of Lek«f, a prominent rock on the 8.
promontory of which resembles a giantess. — On the Lek0 lies the
hamlet of Skei, at which the steamers sometimes call. Farther on
we have a fine view of the rocks of Leke as wc look back.
to Bode. BR0N0. Map, p. 232. — 30. R. 235
1 S.M. Gutvik, bcliiiid which rise the two Heilhome. On
tlic right opens the Bindalsfjord , the boundary between Nordrc
Tiondhjems Anit and HeUjeUtnd , the Halogaland of early
Norwegian history, which extends N. to the promontory of Kunnen
(p. 239).
A local steamer, starting from Br/?ii0 (fee below), plies up the many-
armed Bindalsfjord to Terraak and Heilstad , near Bindalen-Vatsar'S.
Thence, towards the N.W., the long Thosenfjord^ a huge mountain-clei't,
extends t<i Tliosboln and Gaard Thosdal, from which the traveller may
proceed with a guide to Hortskarmo in the Sveniiigsdal, and to Mosjeeii
on the Ve/sen/Jord (p. 236} in l'/>-2 days. The ascent from Gaard Thosdal
is extremely steep, and on the E. side of the mountain there is the trouble-
some Gaasvas-Elv to be forded.
The mountains now become more varied in form. To the N.,
5 S.M. distant (about 2 hrs. by steamer), soon appears the island
of Torgen, otice the seat of the family of that name, with its curious
hill called *Torghatten ('market-hat'; 824 ft.), which resem-
bles a hat floating on the sea. The mail-steamboat stations near-
est to the island are Stenseen , V'lk , and Semnces. The tourist
steamers on the return-route touch at the E. side of the Island
and land their passengers. A marshy and stony path (for which
strong boots are advisable) ascends about halfway up the hill
to (30-40 min.) the 'Hul' (or 'Hullet', 'the hole'), a huge natural
tunnel 407 ft. above the sea. Its height at the E. entrance,
where large masses of de'bris extending far into the interior arc
piled up, is about 65 ft., at thcW. end 246 ft., and in the middle
204 ft.; total length 635 ft.; breadth 36-66 ft. The sides are
mostly flat, and 'nearly perpendicular, and look at places as if
they had been aitiflcially chiselled. The view of the sea with its
countless islands and rocks, seen through this gigantic telescope,
is strikingly beautiful. The natives sell milk, lemonade ('Brus'),
and '.Multeb;er'. The excursion takes l'/o-2 hrs.
As the steamer pro<-eeds on her course, we see through the hole
in Torghatten from N.E. to S.W. (On the way back the tourist
steamers usually steer past the W. side of the island, enabling
us to look through it from S.W. to N.E.) We steer through the Brene-
fund, passing the Kvale, and reach the important station of —
6 S.M. (from Gutvik) Br^n^r, the residence of the clergyman
and tlie doctor of the district, with a telegraph-offlce. The telegraph
is of great importance to the fishermen. At Brene, if not already at
Beian or Uervik, are often seen fleets of herring-boats, the smaller
being the tishing-boats, the larger destined for the cargoes. On the
arrival of a Sildsthn, or shoal of herrings, the herring-fleet is at once
telegraphed for, and is usually towed by steamers to the scene of
action. At the same time supplies of salt and barrels, requisitioned
by wire from every quarter, are sent by steamers chartered for the
purpose. (Farther to the N. the chief herring-fishery stations are
Sclsevik, Bode, Ledingcn, Harstadhavit, Gibostad , and Tromse.)
On the shore arc often seen the cottages of the 'Strandsidderc',
236 R. 30. — Map, p. 232. THJ0T0. From Trondhjem
who live almost exclusively by lisliiiig, wliilc the inland settlers
are called 'Opsiddcre' or 'Nysiddere'.
At Br0ne( we change for the local steamer, which plies on the grand
Velfjoi-d, touching at Here, Eidet-Soolerland (at the entrance to the Skil-
lebotn, where excellent marble is quarried), Navemocs, and Ilegge (good
quarters at the landhandlcr's), near the church of Nestvik, on the filove
Bjerga, as the innermost bay of the fjord is named. In the Tidingsdal or
Teitingsdal, the landward continuation of the fjord, the ground suddenly
rises, */< I'r. from its mouth, in a terrace of 46U ft., over which falls the
Tidingsdalsfos in a sinjjle leap of 270 ft. — From the Velfjord to the N.
diverge the deep and wild Oks/Jord and the Slorfjord.
All the steamboats pass the mouth of the Velfjord, on the S,
side of which rises the huge Mosakselen. and on the N. the pictur-
esque Heiholmstinder \^\t]\ the Andalshat. To the W. lies the large
island of Vayen, rising to 2300 ft., on which is Rere. The mail
steamers either call at Kere or steer between the Havne and the
mainland to Forvik. The tourist-steamers pass between the islands
of Vsegen and Ilavnef, in full view of the imposing Seven Sisters
(p. 237). To theE. towers the conspicuous Fmfcno'/j'cid (4330 ft.). On
the right is the Rede, a red rock, where some of the steamers call.
6 S.M. Thj«rt«r or Tjolta (Jergensena Hotel), a small island,
formerly the property of Haarek of Thjete, a well-known character
in early Norwegian history, lies at the mouth of the beautiful
Vefsen fjord , which runs inland to the E. of the island of Alsten,
and is entered twice weekly by the mail-steamers. The banks of the
inner fjord are finely wooded. The steamer steers into the narrow
S.E. bay, called Vcfaenhunden, and stops at Mosjeen (Mosjeren's
Hotel; Mr. Erik Eatlien, British vice-consul), a little town with
1400 inhab. and the large steam saw-mills oi Halscneen , Drevje-
bruget, and others.
From 3Ijos0en a good road leads to the Tusiervand and to Slornes on
the Resvand (1475 ft.), which ranks next to Lake Mj^sen in point of area.
From Stornes we may ascend the Brurskanke and the Kjeringtind (5805 ft.),
on the W. side of the lake, and then follow the course of XhtResaa, the
discharge of the Tustervand and l!0svand, towards the N., to Resaaeven
on the Ranenfjovd (p. 237). About halfway thither a digression may be
made to the E., up the Bjwaa^ for the sake of ascending the imposing fix-
Under (about 5580 ft.); but these peaks are better reached from I!0saa0ren
and through the Leerskardcil.
The tourist-steamers and some of the mail-boats traverse the
'Skjaergaard' to the W. of theTh.jete and the large island of Alsten
(pop. 1500), on which rise the finely shaped hills called the *Syv
Sestre ('seven sisters'; 2630-3280 ft.). Six hills only are dis-
tinguishable, but one of them has a double crest. The highest of
the sisters is the Bigeriind. At the S. end of the island is the
church of j4/.?<a/ioti5r,wherePe(er7>a*\<i (p.lsxvi), authorof 'Nordlands
Trompet', a description of Norway in verse, was pastor in 1689-
1708. On the Haiignces, near the church, is the so-called Ko7igs-
grav ('king's grave'). The mail-steamers call at Sevik (Jensen's
Hotel); also, on the N. side of the island, at Sandnctseer). (Sanne-
scen's Hotel; N. Strem Jakobseii's Hotel; local steamer toLovunden
to Bode. MO. Map,p.'232. — 30.R. 237
and TliriMien, see p. 238), near wliicb are the old church of
Stamnas and the district-prison. From Sandnaeseen we may as-
cend the N. peak of the Seven .Sisters, passing (6 Kil.) the gaard of
Botnel.
At Sandnaeseen unite the courses of the steamers which pass
the island of Alsten on the E. and on the W. side. Farther on we
pass the Dynnsesar, to the W., of which the Aakviknaver (^2880 ft.)
is the highest point. At Bjern, on the Dynnaese, the greatest of
the Nordland fairs takes place on 2nd July. These fairs were
originally called Ledinysberge (or Lensberge), as the natives used
there to pay their taxes (Leding).
S.M. Kobberdal on the island oi Lekta, with hatcheries of
eider-ducks. The birds build their nests in nooks artificially made
for the purpose. As they are then very tame, a number of the
eggs may be taken without frightening the birds away; and the
eider-down they leave in the nests is afterwards collected.
On the right, to the N.E. of Kobberdal, opens the Raneufjord,
which is visited by several of the mail-steamers, though the tourist
steamers do not enter it. This fjord, anciently Kadund, is the most
richly timbered in the Nordland; almost all the boats, houses, and
coftins between this point and Yadse are made from its tir- trees. The
'Ranenbaade' have high bows and sterns, not unlike the Venetian
gondolas; they are considered typical national craft, and are often
used as pleasure-boats. About 2000 such boats are built every year,
more than one -third of the number coming from Lars Meyer's
yards at Mo.
The steamboat-stations in the Ranenfjord are Hemnas (Saras
Nielsen's Hotel), with a new church and a group of huts for the
use of church-goers from a distance arriving over-night, and —
Mo, a considerable trading-place, with a comfortable inn, at the
mouth of the green Dunderlandsdal, which is watered by a strong
and copious 'elv'. The large deposits of rich iron ore in this valley
have been purchased by 'The Edison Ore Mining Syndicate', and
arrangements for working them made at a cost of 1-1 Vo million
sterling. Water-power is afforded by the Dunderlands-Elv, which
forms the Ratfos about 5 M. from Mo. — On the N. side of the
fjord, about 3 M. from Mo, are the pyrites-mines of Bosmo, which
employ about 200 men; the huddling (ore-washing) works are on
the bank of the fjord.
The Dunderlandsdal is also interesting for its massive limestone
formations, which contain several Stalactite Caverns ('Drypstenshuller"! :
the Jtisa</7-olte on the Langvand, near Hammernws (11 Kil.); the Laphul, near
Gaard Bjernaa, and opposite to it another by Gaard Grenlien, both in the
valley of the liedvas-Elv. A peculiarity of several of the feeders of the
Dunderlands-Elv is that they di.sappear in caverns and suddenly rc-appear
lower down. Thus, the Slilvasaa, near Gaard Slor/os/iei in the Skcyfrudal
(about 15 Kil. from 3lo). Near it is the forest-girt Urtvand. Farther to
the N.W. is the Eiteraa. which drives mills close to its egress from the
earth. Near this are Tijvshdleren (thieves' grotto') and an interesting
238 R. 30. — Map,p. 23-2. VIKHOLMEN. From Trondhjem
Ravine, where the rushing of the subterranean water is audible. The
Pruglaa near Oaard Jordhvo may also be mentioned. By the Fruglkei-Bro
are about fifty water-worn 'giant's cauldrons'.
From Bjaeldaanaes, the central point of the Dunderlandsdal (55 Kil.
from Mo ; road without stations), we may visit the Stornidals/os and the
marble grotto at its foot, near the BrediksQeld. We may also ascend the
Urtfjeld (about 4920 ft.), by crossing the Stormdalshei, or the Brediksfjeld,
which commands a splendid view of Svartisen and the Lofoten Islands.
From Bjseldaanres it is a day's ride up the BJceldciadal, across a pass
(2805 ft.), and through the 0vre and Nedre Toldaadal, to Toldaa in the
Beierendal, and thence by Oosbakke (pass to the Saltdal, see p. 243) to
Storjord (45 Kil. in all; quarters at the under-forester's). From Storjord
to Soleen (p. 241) 14 Kil. more.
From Bjseldaanres to Almindingen in the Saltdal is a long day's journey
(iG-17 hrs.), on which few people are ever met. The route leads either
through the Bj^eldaadal (following the telegraph-wires), or through the
GiMelaadal, Randal, and Letiesdal, which last forms the upper end of
the Saltdal. Below the junction of the Saltdal and Jtmkersdal lies Guard
Berghulnces ; thence to Almindingen and Rognan, see p. 243. — From Berg-
hulnses we go E. to the Junkersdals-Oaard, in the Junkersdal (14 Kil. ; good
quarters). The bridle-path to it leads through the Junkendali-Ur, one of
the grandest rocky ravines in Norway, formed by the Kjevnfjeld to the E.
and the Solvnagfjeld to the W. (4-5000 ft. high). Farther up, the valley is
called Graddis, and is traversed by a bridle-path to Sweden, much fre-
quented in winter, and provided with several 'Fjeldstuer'. Many Lapp settle-
ments are to be met with on the heights in the Dunderlandsdal and Saltdal.
2 S.M. (from Kobberdal) Vikholmen (Olsen's Hotel), charmingly
situated, about 6 Kil. to theN. E. of the mouth of the Ranenfjord.
After their digression into the Ranenfjord the mall-steamers here
rejoin the course of the tourist-steamers. We now steer between
the islands of Huglen, Hannase {TesiAence of the 'S0renskriver', or
local magistrate), and Tombe (2720 ft. ; so called from two rocks
resembling thumbs). To the E. are seen the S.W. spurs of the
Svartisen and to the W. the singularly shaped islands of Lovunden
and Threnen (Threnstdvene). Lovunden, upwards of 2000 ft. high,
is still 30 Kil., and the four islands of Threnen, equally lofty, are
45 Kil. distant; but both seem quite near in clear weather. These
islands are the haunt of dense flocks of loons or divers (^Lunde-
fugle\ Mormon arcticus), whose eggs, about 81/3 in. long and 2 in.
across, are esteemed in the Nordland. They make their nests in
clefts of the rocks difficult of access, which are annually plundered,
and the young birds are also captured and pickled.
The abruptness of Lovunden, the top of which appears to overhang
the water, has given rise to the saying —
'S«.' hvordan han luder den gamle Lovund."
('See how it overhangs, the ancient Lovund'.)
These two remarkable islands may be visited by the local steamer
leaving Sandnoeseen (p. 236) every Sat. afternoon and returning on Monday,
Several intermediate stations.
The Arctic Circle (66°32'30"), the crossing of which is usually
announced by several cannon-shots, passes through the islands of
Threnen and a little to the S. of the HestmandiB'. "We steer through
the Stegfjord, the strait between the Liitjs, with its pyramidal hill
(2110 ft.), on the left, and Alderen on the right. A little later we
to Bode. KUNNEN. Map,p.23-2.—30.R. 239
sight the *Hestniand« (1750 ft.), perhaps the most interesting is-
land in this archipelago, resembling a 'horseman' with a long
cloak falling over his horse. The hill may be ascended without a
guide. The view embraces the ■whole surrounding archipelago, and
the long Svartisen to the E. To the right is a peninsula of the
mainland, projecting far into the sea,
6 S.M. Indre Kvare, a lonely place, from which we may visit
the Melfjord, the Lurer, Lovunden, Threnen, and theHestmand.
Dominating the landscape for many miles, on our right, rises
*Svartisen, an enormous expanse of snow and ice (resembling the
Jostedalsbrae and the Folgefond), about 5o Kil. long and at places
16 Kil. broad, covering a plateau about 4:000 ft. in height, from
which protrude a few peaks or knolls ('Nuter', 'Klumper', 'Knolde'),
while numerous glaciers descend from it to the adjacent fjords.
1 S.M. Selsevik, On the right, the Rangsunde; beyond it opens
the Melfjord, with grand mountains.
2 S.M. liede ('red island'), on which rises B-eAelerven (easy
to ascend), a hill resembling a lion looking westwards. — To the
right open the Tjongsfjord and the Skarsfjord, with their branches
the Bjerangs fjord and the Holandsfjord, which extend close up to
Svartisen. All these fjords are very narrow , being at places
only about 300 yds. across, while their rocky walls attain a height
of 3000 ft. The tourist-steamers enter the Holandsfjord and land
passengers between the gaards of Reindalsvik and Enna. A bad
path, leading through several brooks, runs thence to (20 min.) the
lower margin of the Fondalsbr(e, an arm of Svartisen, the general
view of which, however, is grander from the steamboat. To the S.
rises the Reindalslind (2130 ft.), which is said to afford the best
survey of Svartisen.
The midnight sun (p. 232) may sometimes be seen here before
the beginning of July. Passing the Omnese on the right, we steer
towards the —
3 S.M. (/rene, a pmiling island, which commands a most strik-
ing view of Svartisen. We next pass the mouth of the Glomfjord,
which cuts deep into the mainland, and steer through a narrow strait
between the Mele on the left and the Skjerpa on the right towards
the headland of Kunnen. Far to the N. we obtain our first glimpse
at the Lofoten Islands. — The mail-steamer next sometimes stops
at 0rn(ES and Stedl.
The promontory of *Kunnen or Boffcnceef (1998 ft.), theN.W.
spur of the Svartisen plateau, forms the boundary between Helge-
land and Sullen, and is as a meteorological limit (or 'weather-shed')
of equal importance to Stadtland in the Sendmere (p. 177). At
this point there is a 'Havseie' ('sea-glimpse'), or opening in the
island-belt, through which we get a view of the open sea and some-
times feel its motion. To the W. the Stedtfyr is in sight, to the N.
appears the Fugle, and in the distance the Landcgode (p. 243).
240 R. 30. — Map, p. 232. BOD0. Excursions
The Tourist Steamers now leave the mainland and steer across
the Vestfjord to the Lofoten Islands (see p. 243), of which they
afford a magnificent view.
The Mail Steamers pass, on the left, the Fugle, the Fleind,
and the Ameer, and on the right the cluirch of Gildeskaal and the
large island of Sandkorn, with a mountain 3295 ft. high (beyond
which lies tlie Beicrenfjord, p. 241). We then cross the mouth of
the SaUenfjord{^. 241), at the E. end of which, in clear weather,
we observe the snow-flelds of the Sulitelma (p. 242), and soon reach
the cnrious rocky harbour of —
12 S.M. Bod«. — Hotels. Grand Motel (landlord, llerr Witlenberg,
a German), near the market-place, 3 min. from the pier, R. 2, D. 2,
S. 11/2 kr. , very fair, with fine view from the tower. — British Vice-
Consul, Mr. Nils Falck. — Lloyd's Agent, Mr. ./. Koch, junior. — Information
a,i to exctirsions may be obtained from the Bode og Omegns Turistforening .
Bode, in N. lat. 67" 17', a btisy and increasing place, with
4900 inhab., is the seat of tlie Amtmand or provincial governor.
Among the large modern buildings are still a few of the old cottages
with their roofs of turf. The large wooden church in the Gothic
style dates from 1886. The midnight sun may be seen hence
between the beginning of June and the beginning of July (comp.
p. 232).
A visit to the Lebsaas, or Lehsfjeld, a hill to the N., is re-
commended. From the N. end of Stor-Gaden (whence the red
refuge-hut at the top is visible) we follow the broad road leading
past the foot of the hill. At the fork a board shows the way to the
(3/4-I hr.)hut, whence a well-marked path leads in V2"V4^'"' to the
'Keiservarde' commemorating the visit of Emp. William II. The
top commands a view of the Lofoten Islands to the N.W., of the
snowy Blaamandsfjeld or Olmajalos (p. 242) to the E., of the
Bersvatnstindertothe S.E., andofthe Sandhorn, with the Svartisen,
to the S. Another fine view is obtained from the Voldfjeld (about
1310 ft. ; tourist-hut), 2 hrs. to the N. of Bode. The ascent of the
Junkerfjeld and the excursion to the Vaagevand, with its club-hut,
both reached in I72 ^^- froni Bode, are also interesting.
About 3 Kil. to the E. of Bod© is the Bodegaard, with a church
and a parsonage, at which Louis Philippe, when travelling as a
refugee under the name of Miiller, was entertained on his voyage to
the North Cape in 1796. The road traverses an extensive moss, which
has recently been drained and is now being brought under culti-
vation. To the left rises a new insane asylum ('sindssyge-asyl'), near
which is the refuge-hut on the Renvikfjeld. The drainage-works
revealed, under the moss, a layer of broken shells, about 20 inches
thick, resting upon a foundation of dark grey clay interspersed with
crystals of quartz and granite, thus pointing to the geologically
recent elevation of the bed of the sea at this point. Geologists will
also be interested in the erratic blocks of syenite in the midst of
the j-ock-formation of slate constituting the peninsula of Bode.
from Bode. BEIERENFJORD. Map, p. 2,32. —30. R. 241
ExcuKsiONs FROM l^oDe. Niimerous excursions on land may be
made from Bod*. The well-wooded country around affords a welcome
contrast to the generally bare and desolate scenery of the Nordland.
The following are some of the most attractive steamboat-excursions.
(1) Thk Bkierknfjord. a local steamer plies up the Beieren-
fjord (there and back in 8 hrs.) twice a week. Crossing the mouth
of the Saltenfjord and passing an ^Mg- og- Duun-Vaer' (breeding
place of eider-ducks ; comp. p. 237) and the Island of Sandhorn,
the steamer calls at Skaalland and liesnaSj on the mainland, and at
Sandnces, on Sandhorn (p. 240). Wc now enter the Beierenfjord,
a narrow inlet flanked by imposing mountains, contracting, beyond
Kjelling, to its narrowest part at the gaard of Eggesvik. Several
large 'Jnettegryder' (p. 294) may be seen on the shore. The last
station is Toervik.
From Tvervik we may row to (3Ki\.) Soleen (good quarters at Land-
handler Jentoft's), whence we may ascend the Heiiind (4545 ft. ; with
guide; extensive view of the mountain -solitudes towards Sweden, of
Svartisen to the S., and of the sea dotted with islands to the W., bounded
by the distant Lofoten Islands). Or we may row to Arstad, where there
is a skyds-station, with a fine waterfall. The road leads thence through a
liicturesque valley, \^aat Beierens Kirke (by the gaard ot Moldjord), to Stor-
jord, Oosbakke, and (about 20 Kil.) Toldaa (p. 233).
(2) To THE Saltenfjord and Skjeestadfjord. — The local
steamboat leaves Bod0 three or four times a week between 4 and 10 a.m.
(according to the tide), touches at Strem (for the Saltstr^m), S/cjerstad, Fitske,
and Rognan, at the S. end of the Skjerstadfjord, and returns to Bod0 at
night. — A better way of visiting the Saltstr0m is to drive from Bod0
(telegraph beforehand if possible for cariole) to (17 Kil., in l'/2hr.) Kvalvaag,
and to go thence by sailing-boat in l-l'/z hr. to Strem. In this case the
e.xcursion does not take more than (5-8 hrs.
Two islands, the Streme on the S. and the Qode on the N.,
separate the Saltenfjord from the extensive Skjerstadfjord. The
latter is (lonnected with the sea by three very narrow straits only,
the Sundstreim (200 ft. wide), the Storstrem (500 ft.), and the Oo-
destrem , through which an enormous mass of water has to pass
four times daily, forming a tremendous cataract, known as the Salt-
strflrm, as each tide pours in or out of the fjord. The usual rise of
the tide here is 5-6 ft. only, but when it increases to 8-9 ft. during
spring-tides, the scene is most imposing. Vessels can navigate
these straits during an hour or so at high or at low tide only, and the
steamer times its departure from Boder accordingly. Large quantities
of fish are caught at tliis point.
The best point of view is Y4hr. from Strem (quarters atFurre's,
the Landhandler). A column here commemorates the visit of King
Oscar II. in 1873. The scene is most effective when the water is
pouring into the fjord. The ascent of the Bersvatnstinder to the
S. of Strem is recommended (5-6 hrs. ; fatiguing).
The principal place on the Skjerstadfjord is Skjerstad, with a
church and 6300 iiihab., at the entrance to the ^Fisvarfjord.| whence
.the Topstadfjeld may be easily ascended in 2 hours. Opposite, to
B.\edekeb'8 Norway and Sweden. 8th Edit. 16
242 R.3U. — Map,p.'J32. SULITELMA.
the W., is the old gaard of Lenas, with an ancient burial-place.
The steamer then recrosses the fjord to Venset. — About 5-6 Kil.
farther on is 0inesgavien, a promontory of conglomerate, a formation
which also occurs in the Kjatnas, 14 Kil. to the S.
Fuske or Fauske (slow skyds-station), on a N. bay of the fjord,
whence a road leads by the Fuskeeid to Dybvik on the Foldenfjord
(p. 248). After a voyage of 8 hrs. from Bode we reach —
Fineidet (Fred. 0stensen's Hotel), the starting-point for an ex-
cursion to the Sulitelma, and the port whence the copper-ore mined
on that mountain and the line white marble quarried near Fuske
are shipped.
Excursion to the Sulitelma. Passing an extensive moraine, we cross
the Fineid (in about 10 min.), which divides the f])ord fri>m the lake of
Nedre Vand. Small steamers (40 0.) ply on this lake and steer through
the Ojemgamsstrem into the J0vre Vand, reaching SJenstaa or Skjenstuen,
in a mountain-valley at the head of the latter, in I1/4 hr. The surrounding
district is known as Vatteiihygden. — From Sj^nstaa the narrow-gauge
Sulitelma Railway (which may possibly have been extended to Fineidet by
the time this Handbook appears) runs through a rocky ravine beside the
impetuous Langvms-Elv, with views of the Galmifos and of the Sulitelma
in the distance. In 1/2 l''"- we reach Fossen, at the foot of the Langvand
(410 ft.), where we change to another small steamer (60 0.). The scenery
on the Langvand is fine ; numerous waterfalls, among which the Rupsi
Joki ('red water"), on the left, deserves speoial notice.
Furulund, the steamboat-terminus (172 hr.), is the seat of the Swedish
Sulitelma Mining Co., which now produces about 44,000 tons of copper ore
annually and employs 700-800 hands ; it also possesses ha 
