OCCUPATIONS FOR
LITTLE FINGERS
OCCUPATIONS FOR
LITTLE FINGERS
A Manual for Grade Teachers, Mothers
and Settlement Workers
BY
ELIZABETH SAGE
AND
ANNA M. COOLEY, B.S.
Of the Domestic Art Department, Teachers College
Columbia University, New York
WITH AN INTRODUCTORY NOTE BY
MARY SCHENCK WOOLMAN
Director of Domestic Art Department, Teachers College
Columbia University, New York
ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHORS
NEW YORK
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
1910
-
COPYRIGHT, 1905, BY
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
Published, September, 1905
•
TO
THE MANY LITTLE PEOPLE WHO
WILL FIND JOY THROUGH
EXPRESSION
26002»
PREFACE
" Every task, however simple,
Sets the soul that does it free."
FROM time immemorial man has worked with his hands,
and his time and attention have been utilized in the produc-
tion of things both useful and ornamental. "Necessity"
very often was the "mother of invention," and the need for
food, shelter, and clothing led to the gradual development of
industries, from the simple handwork to the elaborate prod-
ucts of the factory system of to-day.
Whether, then, through necessity, or simply because of joy
in expression through the hands, the world is to-day a rich
treasure-house stored with the wonderful products which
man has created. The instinct for production is not dead,
but will last as long as man, for to create is a divine and God-
given instinct.
Froebel, in his study of the child, realized that his natural
activity could be utilized, and turned into channels which
would lead to his gradual development, physical, moral,
and intellectual. He believed in the development of head,
heart, and hand. For that purpose he introduced the gifts,
occupations, songs, and plays, and allowed the child to invent
and create. Joy and happiness in work were the results.
For some time kindergarten training was a precarious
feature in education, but now that this branch has been in-
corporated into the public-school systems and colleges, and
finds a place even in university work, it seems an assured fact
that children are to receive some of their early training in the
kindergarten. Here their crude ideas are worked out through
the materials offered, and the child improves in his ability to
viii Preface
express himself with his hands — for expression is necessary
if images are to be clear. This handwork satisfies the early
craving of the child for play and the practical, and the gifts
and occupations become playthings in his hands, but, un-
known to him, things of educational value.
When the child leaves the kindergarten and passes to the
grade school, too often the change is a very abrupt one.
There is a lack of the old-time freedom, and an absence of the
play materials. Children then begin to lose interest, and the
attention is often forced rather than spontaneous, and teach-
ing ceases to be as effective.
As a help in alleviating this difficulty, handwork as one
of the mediums of expression has been introduced into
many of the grade schools, sometimes in correlation with
other subjects, but more often simply in an occupational way.
Handwork as manual training is most effective when taught
in relation to the other work of the grade, so that there is
unity and a harmonious development. By manual training
is meant not simply work which is spontaneously interesting
and keeps the child alert and active, but work which is
educationally effective. This effectiveness is in the hands of
the teacher, and will be worked out by her if she under-
stands the theory back of real manual training.
This little book is in answer to a number of demands which
have come from different parts of the country. Busy mothers
at home, grade teachers and settlement-workers are con-
stantly asking, "What can I do with my children? They
want something to do" The object of this book is simply
to furnish some ideas and to act as a suggestive medium;
in no way does it attempt to correlate the work for the
teacher. It has been left for her to utilize the material here
offered in working out her schemes for unity in the develop-
ment of the class work.
In the study of various kinds of handwork for children, one
will find that they are most interested in form when it is
Preface ix
associated with function or color; that children are interested
in things in connection with people, animals, and plants, and
when they can construct something in which they can feel the
sense of self, as the cause of that construction, the joy of ex-
pression brings great happiness.
Constructive handwork offers many opportunities for the
development of design, and often a detail of design lends
an atmosphere of greater reality to an object, especially when
the object made is of miniature size and is for play-use, as
a doll's table-cover, cushion, chair, hat, etc. Children feel
many things in their imagination, and a little touch of reality
in design furthers that imaginative thought. Many oppor-
tunities are offered in this work for the teaching of harmony
of color, for the adaptation of design to use, and for the
correct placing of design in relation to the space offered for
decoration. Teachers are urged to lay particular emphasis on
the design, which in previous years has been very much
neglected. "The highest aim of art is to make some useful
thing beautiful."
The writers have realized the necessity for keeping the cost
of the articles made at a minimum. As represented, perhaps
a few are beyond the average public-school treasury or purse
of the settlement-worker, but they can, almost without excep-
tion, be reproduced in less expensive materials. The work
will be equally valuable, only in the cheaper goods there is
not always the same opportunity for harmony of color and
for artistic production.
Perfect and accurate work should not be expected from
young children, but the teacher must consider the age and
ability of the child, and judge the results accordingly. A
very crude piece of work, produced perhaps by a child in
some school of reform nature, may have been of far more
help and value in that child's development than that produced
under far more favorable circumstances.
The writers hope that within these covers may be found
x Preface
suggestions for the teachers of such little people as especially
need help, and that the book may be the means later on in
life of introducing them to much broader fields of expression
through which great joy may come to them and be given to
the world.
Thanks are due to the Domestic Art Students of Teachers
College, Columbia University, for the use of some of the
articles photographed.
CONTENTS
PAGE
PREFACE vii
INTRODUCTORY NOTE xvii
CHAPTER
I. A TALK ABOUT THE MATERIALS USED i
II. SOME USES FOR CORD AND STRING .... 7
III. A FEW SUGGESTIONS FOR RAFFIA . . . .18
IV. COARSE SEWING 34
V. PAPER CUTTING AND FOLDING 46
VI. SOME STORIES IN CLAY 60
VII. WEAVING 67
VIII. BEAD-WORK . . . 81
IX. How TO FURNISH A DOLL'S HOUSE . . .91
X. SIMPLE UPHOLSTERY FOR HOME USE . . .104
XI. CROCHETING AND KNITTING 113
XII. SOME SPECIAL WORK FOR BOYS 125
XIII. How TO USE NATURE'S MATERIALS . . . 140
LIST OF PLATES
INDIAN LIFE, FIRST GRADE, HORACE MANN SCHOOL,
TEACHERS COLLEGE, NEW YORK CITY . . Frontispiece
PLATE PAGE
I. CORD-WORK 15
II. ARTICLES MADE FROM RAFFIA 20
III. ARTICLES MADE FROM RAFFIA 23
IV. COARSE SEWING 36
V. PAPER CUTTING 47
VI. PAPER CUTTING AND FOLDING 58
VII. CLAY MODELING 61
VIII. WEAVING 73
IX. SOME LOOMS 77
X. BEAD-WORK 85
XL FURNITURE FOR DOLL'S HOUSE . 93
XII. UPHOLSTERY 105
XIII. CROCHETING AND KNITTING 115
XIV. WORK FOR BOYS 127
XV. WORK FOR BOYS 133
XVI. THE USE OF NATURE'S MATERIALS .... 145
LIST OF FIGURES
FIG. PAGE
1. Chain Stitch ..... 8
2. Blanket Stitch .... 8
3. Detail of Lanyard ... 9
4. Three-Strand Braid . . . 10
5. Half Hitch : 10
6. Double Chain Stitch . . 10
7. Detail of Horse Reins . . n
8. Slip Loop ii
9. Loop for Hammock . . 14
10. Detail of Whip . . . . 16
11. Sailor Knot 17
12. Feather and Catch Stitch . 21
13. Detail for Napkin Ring . 21
14. Paired Weaving . . . . 24
15. Wattling 24
1 6. Detail for Umbrella ... 25
17. Start for Mat 25
18. Overhand Knot .... 26
19. Solomon's Knot . . . . 27
20. Start and Stitch for Coiled
Basket .29
21. Mat Borders 30
22. Netting 32
23. Uneven Blanket Stitch . . 37
24. Even Blanket Stitch . . 38
25. Running Stitch .... 38
26. Cross Stitch 39
27. Detail of Letter-Case . . 39
28. Detail of Iron-Holder . . 40
FIG.
29.
31-
32-
33-
34-
35-
36.
37-
38-
39-
40.
41.
42.
43-
44.
45-
46.
47-
48.
49.
52-
53-
54-
PAGE
Tying of Fringe .... 41
Two Runs and a Back
Stitch 42
Overhand Stitch .... 42
Overcasting 43
Stitching Stitch .... 44
Couching 44
Detail for Five-Pointed
Star 48
Detail for Accordion . . 48
Pinwheel 49
Sketch for Paper Dolls . . 50
Pattern for Conventional
Cutting 51
Picture Frame . . . . 52
Wall Pocket 53
Screen 54
Envelope ...... 55
Pattern for Box .... 55
Drawing for Lamp Shade . 56
Detail of Lamp Shade . .57
Sketch of Fish .... 63
Coiled Basket 64
Detail of Bowl .... 66
Splint Weaving .... 69
Rings for Hammock . . 70
Zuni Heddle 72
Shuttle 75
Detail for Pattern Weaving 76
XVI
List of Figures
FIG.
55-
56-
57-
58.
59-
60.
61.
62.
63-
64.
65-
66.
67.
68.
69.
70.
71-
72.
PAGE
Circular Weaving for Pocket 80
Pattern for Moccasin . . 81
Detail of Moccasin ... 82
Start of Egyptian Chain . 84
Bead Chain 86
Bead Chain 87
Mount for Fob .... 88
Daisy Chain 89
Box for Bed 92
Toilet Table 95
Pattern for Arm-Chair . . 97
Start for Table .... 98
Rattan Arm-Chair . . . 100
Detail of Arm-Chair . . 101
Detail of Arm-Chair . . 101
Passe-partout 102
Mitre for Corner . . . .107
Pattern for Window-Seat
Cover in
Ball for Tam-o'-Shanter . 114
Double Crochet Stitch . .
Pattern for Slipper Sole
Spool Knitting ....
Setting Up for Knitting .
73-
74-
75-
76.
77-
78. Detail for Folding of Hood 122
116
116
120
121
FIG. PAGE
79. Folding of Jacob's Ladder 126
80. Folding of Palm-Tree . .126
81. Soldier Hat 128
82. Epaulets 129
83. Ball-Cover 129
84. Drawing Stitch .... 130
85. Kite Frame 130
86. Kite 131
87. Indian Tent 132
88. Trousers for Indian Doll 135
89. Coat for Indian Doll . . 135
90. Indian Bow 136
91. Bumper for Sail Boat . 137
92. Doll 138
93. Patterns for Doll's Clothes 138
94. Seed Chains 141
95. Start of Grape-vine Basket 141
96. Handle for Grape-vine
Basket 142
97. Detail of .Fern Basket . . 143
98.. Pattern for Canoe . . .146
99. Finish for Birch-bark Box 147
100. Start for Grass Basket . 151
101. Turning Side of Basket . 152
102. Pattern with Corn Husks 154
INTRODUCTORY NOTE
THE child is naturally a worker. He will destroy if he
does not know how to make. Destruction interests him as
much as construction. He likes to see "the wheels go
around," and it matters little to him if the gratifying of his
desires is advantageous or not to the article in hand.
Mothers, who were the earliest and should be the best
teachers, long ago found that the happiest child was the
busy one. They discovered also that to keep him at work
he must be interested in the thing he is doing. To ac-
complish this they must provide that which he feels to be
worth the effort. It must be something which he under-
stands and which he can finish in a short time. A stupid,
difficult "stint" such as poor Little Prudy had to finish daily
is not calculated to increase a love for work. The wise and
patient mother has it in her power to create an interest in
the daily work of the household. Even such homely tasks as
sweeping, dusting, and sewing may be taught to the children
and prove pleasurable and profitable to them.
Handwork has its place in education as well as in the daily
life. It should ever be "a blessing, not a doom.'5 It may
give in both places rich returns, which should affect the child
in the development of his thought, of his emotional life, and
of his character. The results of the work are the child's,
but the mother and the teacher must study how best to give
the full joy of work to the children.
This book considers the needs of both the mother and
the teacher. It has been written by two teachers who know
and love children and who have practically worked out with
them the things of which they write. It tries to meet the
xviii Introductory Note
child's constant cry, "What shall I do?" with a direct reply
full of help and of interest. Mere formal models aie not
mentioned, the book dealing with attractive and useful
articles. It sets forth the best way of making such articles
and it tells what they should cost. Simple crafts from
many industrial fields are chosen in order that variety in
work may increase the child's interest in the world about
him. The teacher who has the handwork in the early
grades finds here a series of valuable suggestions, while the
mother is fortified with delightful occupations for rainy days.
This little book should therefore increase the helpfulness and
happiness of many little workers in the school, the settlement,
and the home.
MARY SCHENCK WOOLMAN,
OCCUPATIONS FOR
LITTLE FINGERS
OCCUPATIONS FOR LITTLE
FINGERS
CHAPTER I
A TALK ABOUT THE MATERIALS USED
THE resourcefulness of localities varies in such a degree
that materials which may be quite feasible and easy for one
teacher or mother to obtain may be rather difficult for an-
other. In this talk on the materials used it is hoped that
suggestions may be offered which will make it possible for
even those in more remote districts to carry on some of the
occupations presented, though perhaps in not quite the same
way as outlined in the following chapters.
Many varieties of cord will be found adaptable to the kind
of work presented in the chapter on that subject. Even a
piece of discarded string may be utilized;
odds and ends, saved from time to time,
may be sorted and knotted together if it is possible to procure
no other.
Macrame cord lends itself to this variety of work in a most
pleasing way, as it is soft and pliable. It may be obtained
from wholesale twine houses, and costs about twenty-five
cents a pound, and the numbers vary according to the size
of the cord, No. 16 being finer than No. 60. A hank of the
fine will go farther than one of larger size. The hanks are
wound in a way similar to worsteds, and for large classes
the teacher will find it advisable to wind a number of small
balls, and distribute the cord in that way. Colored macramd
may be procured in balls for ten cents each.
1
2 Occupations for Little Fingers
The netting-needles used in making cord hammocks, bags,
etc., in which the netting stitch is used, may be procured
generally at a kindergarten supply place. If none is near,
the needles and mesh-sticks may be made by the children
(see Fig. 22), or pieces of old rulers may be used for mesh-
sticks, and a round pointed stick for needle. The cord may
be wound around the stick first to one side and then to the
other. Care must be taken, however, not to fill the needle
too full, as it will be quite difficult to put through the mesh.
Raffia has been used so extensively during the past few
years that it will perhaps be the material most easily obtain-
able. It is possible to order small quantities
RAFFIA , ., ,
by mail, or to obtain it at a neighboring
florist's. Large quantities may be ordered from wholesale
seed stores in most of the large cities. Some wholesale firms
have several qualities, and will ship in large quantities at
reduced rates; colors may also be obtained. The kinder-
garten supply places also deal in both plain and colored, and
are, perhaps, more satisfactory shops if only small quantities
are desired. The department stores in some cities also carry
a supply.
Raffia comes principally from Madagascar, and is a natural
material which forms the outside covering of a palm. It is
of yellowish color, soft, and easy to handle.
More satisfactory results may be obtained in working with
the colored raffia if the vegetable dyes have been used.
Many materials may be used for the work in coarse sewing.
If the locality does not offer any of the canvas or burlap
varieties, one can always find a substitute.
CANVAS
SEWING SUC^ as heavy scrim, crinoline, or some
coarsely woven material. Denim can be
found in most places.
The Java canvas, basket burlap, and cotton burlap are so
wide that a yard is sufficient for quite a number of small
articles. Jute burlap, one yard wide, may be bought for
A Talk About the Materials Used 3
15 cents. Java canvas is more expensive, the price varying
from 75 cents a yard to $i. The basket burlap is woven in
squares and costs $1.50 per yard. The price of denim is 15
cents a yard, and that of cotton burlap $1.25.
These may be obtained at art-embroidery shops, and often
in department stores. By the quantity they seem costly,
but it must be remembered that each child receives only a
small piece, and the canvas is very wide.
Germantown wool may be used for sewing, and although
less expensive than a mercerized cotton, is liable to become
moth-eaten. It may be obtained at art or department stores.
Poseidon, referred to in Chapter IV, is a mercerized cotton
thread, and comes in small hanks in various numbers. The
colors are very beautiful and make an artistic finish. It
may be obtained for 35 cents a dozen skeins.
San silk may be substituted for Poseidon, although the
colors are not as pretty; a large spool costs only 4 cents, and
if the best colors are selected the results are very effective.
Some art stores and nearly all department houses keep it.
The Prisma cotton mentioned is a heavy form of Poseidon.
For the card sewing, kindergarten supply places furnish
the best variety. These cards may be obtained in many
sizes. Those 4x5 inches cost 30 cents a
hundred. If it is not possible to obtain SEWING
these, any scrap of card -board or heavy
paper, and even an old visiting-card, may be pressed into
service.
Any available piece of paper may be used for folding.
Cartridge-paper by the roll, for wall hang-
ing, is inexpensive. It may be found at all PAPER CUT-
' 7 , , TING AND
paper-hangers and decorators , for about 20 FOLDING
cents a roll. Many other useful papers
may be found at the same place.
Ordinary brown, and even cheap straw papers, make artistic
effects, either as backgrounds or for the folded form.
4 Occupations for Little Fingers
Kindergarten papers come in all the colors, shades, and
tones, and are very beautiful. Those cut 4x4 inches cost
20 cents a hundred, and can be obtained at kindergarten
supply places. Black paper is useful in cutting, especially
for silhouetting, and is inexpensive. Bogus paper is also very
cheap; it costs 70 cents per 500 in the 9x12 inch sheets.
For very simple work with young children, the potter's gray
clay serves the best purpose. It can be obtained at a neighbor-
ing potter's or at pottery works, or even at kin-
dergarten supply houses. It is sold in bricks,
and costs about 2 cents per pound, or $1.50 per 100 pounds.
One simple, flat, wooden stick is the only tool which is
really needed, and much may be accomplished without this,
with wire, toothpicks, string, knitting-needles, etc.
Looms of some description must necessarily be used after
the simple splint weaving has been studied. Looms may be
improvised from paper candy-boxes, or any
nwAT^nTAT o kind of a small wooden box will answer the
JYLA. 1 .HivL/vLo
purpose.
There are a number of small looms on the market, such as
the Woolman, Todd, and others. Indian looms may be
made of four natural sticks bound at the corners. The
marketable looms range in price from 75 cents to $1.50.
The woolen yarns for weaving seem to be best in effect, but
are more expensive than cotton. Strips of cloth or rags may
be used, and are very inexpensive. Carpet yarns may be
procured in a number of shades at 75 cents per pound.
Germantown wool and wool rug yarn are soft and pleasing.
Wool yarns may often be obtained from rug houses, that
are glad to dispose of small quantities of left-over shades in
various numbers. These vary in price from 75 cents to $1.50
a pound, according to number.
Raffia may be used in weaving small articles, but is not as
satisfactory as other materials. Candle-wicking or cable
cord is inexpensive material for elementary weaving work.
A Talk About the Materials Used 5
Linen thread is generally used in making bead-work be-
cause of its superior strength. It may be BEAD_WORK
obtained at any department store.
The beads come in a variety of sizes, and are numbered
according to color and size. The wholesale bead houses
furnish illustrated lists of the prices per bunch ; they may also
be purchased at the shops dealing in Indian goods. At the
kindergarten supply houses beads of assorted colors are
sometimes sold by the box.
Most of the materials mentioned in the chapters on Cro-
cheting, Upholstery, and the Doll's House
may be obtained at a department or art-
, . , A ,. , f . . , UPHOLSTERY
embroidery store. A list of the materials, CROCHETING
with their widths and prices, is given below :
Width, Price
inches per yard
Burlap (cotton) 67 $i .00
" (jute) 26 .35
Canvas (Java) (cream) 36 .70
(colors) 36 .45
18 -35
" (white) 18 .25
Dimity 30 .25
Scrim (heavy) 40 .35
Muslin — Alpine Rose 36 .11
(unbleached) 36 .07
Holland Linen 42 .35
Art Ticking 36 .25
Brussels Net 36 .35
Per Ib.
Wool — Columbia Yarn $i-45
—Saxony 1.50
— Zephyr 2.20
The material for the rattan furniture may be bought at a
kindergarten supply house or at a rattan company. It is
sold by the pound and is numbered according to size — the
it U
u u tt
u
6 Occupations for Little Fingers
smaller the number the finer the reed or rattan. The num-
bers and prices are given below:
No. i, per Ib $1.25
No. 2, " i.oo
No. 3, <: 75
No. 4, " 75
No. 5, " 60
Retail prices have been given in all the lists furnished in
this chapter, and are, of course, subject to variation. By
buying at wholesale a large reduction may be obtained.
Where the cost of articles is given in the following chapters
the estimate is based on materials bought in large quantities,
and in every case the cost has been worked out.
CHAPTER II
SOME USES FOR CORD AND STRING
THERE is, perhaps, nothing which so appeals to the average
boy or girl as a bit of string. It has wonderful possibilities,
and slow is the boy who does not work it to its utmost capacity,
from spinning a top to playing at cat's cradle with another
boy.
When it is introduced into the school-room the children are
made extremely happy. Simple knotting may be begun with
six-year-old children. This work trains the eye with the
hand; measurement and spacing are taught, as well as num-
ber, color, and a certain deftness of touch. The child must
be attentive and thoughtful in order to follow well, and he
is so interested that he does so unconsciously. This work
strengthens the arm and finger muscles, and appeals to the
child's desire to invent.
, Macrame cord is generally used for this work, but odd bits
of string may be utilized if no other can be procured.
Various kinds of knotting may be taught, and these can be
used in many ways, in the making of raffia hats, bags, nets,
etc.
In demonstrating the cord work, the teacher will find it
helpful to use large upholstery cords of various colors.
Cord work may be used as an introduction to crocheting,
and simplifies the approach to that work. It has been used
with great success in the summer playgrounds for children,
and the teachers have welcomed it as an interesting and in-
structive occupation.
7
8
Occupations for Little Fingers
L The Curtain Cord
Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 16, 3 yards. — i brass ring, i
inch in diameter. Approximate cost per child .01
The curtain cord is made by using the chain-stitch, as in
crocheting, but the fingers are used instead
of a needle. Begin by making a circle, or
letter O, at one end of the cord. Double the
long end and draw the loop through the circle
(see Fig. i). Continue until two yards of the
cord have been looped in a similar manner.
Then pull the end of the
cord all the way through the
last loop in order to fasten
it securely before finishing
with the ring. Place the
ring close to the last chain-
stitch, and use the blanket-
stitch in covering the ring
with the cord (see Fig. 2).
After this has been done,
run the end of the cord up
through the chain-stitch for two inches,
and cut it off close.
IL The Sailor's Lanyard
Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 16, 8
yards. — Macrame cord, No. 6, 2 yards.
Approximate cost per child 01
Five inches from the end of the eight-
yard piece start the chain-stitch, as in
making the curtain cord (see Fig. i). Continue to within
five inches of the other end of the cord. Pull the end
FIG. 1.
FIG. 2.
Some Uses for Cord and String 9
through the last loop in order to fasten it securely. With the
fine cord bind the two five-inch pieces together. Begin
just below the last chain-stitch, working over the end of the
fine cord with the blanket-stitch (see Fig. 2). Continue for
one inch from the chain-stitch, working over the two cords.
Divide the two cords and form a loop, having the ends
overlap (see Fig. 3). Continue with the blanket-stitch
around the. loop thus formed.
Run the end of the cord under
the blanket-stitch when the
loop has been finished.
IIL The Whistle Chain
Materials. — Macrame cord,
No. 60, 2\ yards. —
Whistle. Approximate
cost per child 01^
Four inches from one end of
the cord begin the chain-stitch,
as in making the curtain cord
(see Fig. i). Continue to
within four inches of the other end, and pull this through the
loop in order to fasten it. The whistle is strung on one of the
four-inch ends of the crocheted chain, and that end is run up
through the chain-stitch. It may be sewed to hold it more
securely. The other end for the button loop is finished by
running the end of the cord down through the crocheted
chain and fastened with sewing.
IV. The Scissors' Guard
Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 60, 3 yards. — i pair small
scissors.
This guard is made of a three-strand braid. Cut one
yard from the three-yard length. Double the two-yard
10
Occupations for Little Fingers
FIG. 4.
FIG. 5.
length to find the centre. Put the end of the one-yard piece
under the centre and allow the end to extend four inches for
the fastening of the scissors. Braid the three cords together
(see Fig. 4) to within six inches of the ends.
In braiding, the right and left
hand strand in turn crosses the
centre strand, and so becomes the
centre one itself. Make a half-
hitch with one strand over the
other two, in order to hold it in
place (see Fig. 5). Take the single
cord of four inches, which extend-
ed above the braid, pass it through
one ring of the scissors handle and
then down through the braid. In order to hold it very se-
curely a few stitches may be taken with a needle and thread.
Any suitable article may be substituted for the scissors. The
price of this model depends upon the
quality of scissors.
V* The Horse-Reins
Materials. — Colored Macrame cord, No.
1 6, 5 yards. — White Macrame cord,
No. 1 6, 5 yards. Approximate cost
per child 02
Knot the ends of the two cords together.
Hold the knot and throw one cord around
the fingers of the left hand, forming a
loop. Pull a loop of this cord partly
through the loop thus formed. Through
this loop draw a loop of the contrasting
color cord, and draw it up securely by pulling the end of the
cord previously looped (see Fig. 6). Continue the whole
length of the cords, by alternating the loops of color, and
FIG. 6.
Some Usesjbr Cord and String
11
pulling them in place by drawing the end of
the contrasting color.
After this double chain-stitch has been
completed, the horse-reins may be shaped to
form the cross-piece. Make a circle of one-
third of the chain by running the end of the
cord in and out of the chain. Make a large
circle with the remaining two-thirds by fast-
ening the end six inches from the first fast-
ening on the small circle (see Fig. 7).
The horse-reins may be made with the
single loop chain, and also larger in size.
They may be dyed any attractive color, and
if made of a heavy cord (No. 60) and trimmed with bells,
may be used by the children for Christmas gifts.
FIG. 7.
VL Braided Ties for Sailor Suit
Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 16, 12 yards. Approximate
cost per child 01
Cut the twelve yards into six two-yard pieces. Three
pieces will be used for each tie. Lay two cords evenly to-
gether. Take the third cord, double it in half, and loop it
FIG. 8.
around the middle of cords one and two (Fig. 8). Then
begin to braid. Each strand of the braid is composed of two
cords. In making a three-strand braid, the right and left-
12 Occupations for Little Fingers
hand strand in turn crosses the centre string and so becomes
the centre one itself.
The second tie may be made in a similar way and used on
the boys' sailor suits.
The children may also make ties for their flower-presses.
They may be made in like manner, but in one piece, and of
sufficient length to go twice around the press and tie.
VIL The Overhand Knot
Plate I, No. 7, shows the overhand knot and its use and
application in a small piece of netting. The cord is thrown to
either the right or left, forming a loop, and the end of the cord
is drawn through it. Two cords may be knotted together
with this knot, as shown in No. 7.
VIIL The Square or Hard Knot
Plate I, No. 8, shows the steps to be followed in making the
square knot. The two ends are to be knotted together.
Cross them and twist the upper end around the lower cord,
bringing the ends up in position. Cross these two ends
again, having the original upper end again go over and around
the end it crosses.
This knot is especially useful in tying bandages.
IX. The Weaver's Knot
Plate I, No. 9, if carefully studied, will reveal the method
of making the weaver's knot. It is the knot especially used
in weaving, and is strong and easily made after some practice.
Cross the two ends at right angles. For convenience, we
will call one the old end and the other the new piece to be
joined to it. Place the new under the old and at right angles
under the thumb. Hold them securelv. Pass the new cord
Some Uses for Cord and String 13
around the outline of the thumb-nail and under itself, then-
over the old, and hold it under the thumb. Pass the old end
through the loop formed by the new. Hold all the ends and
draw up the knot by pulling the newly added cord.
This knot is too difficult for very young children, but may
be given to the older ones.
. X. The Soft Carriage- Whip
Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 60, 4 yards. Approximate
cost per child 01
Cut the cord in two pieces of two yards each. Cross the
two at right angles in the middle. Tie the lower cord over
the upper one at the point of crossing, using the single tie of
the square knot. Continue to build up the whip by alternat-
ing the cords tied, one above the other, to within six inches of
the ends of the cords. One inch from the last tie, on each
cord, make a single overhand knot. Continue knotting at
inch intervals, on each of the four cords, to form the lash of
the whip.
XI. The Hammock
Materials. — Iron rings, i-inch, 2. — Macrame cord, No. 16, 12
yards. — Macrame cord, No. 60, i yard. — Macrame cord,
No. 6, i yard. Approximate cost per child 02
Divide the twelve yards of No. 16 cord into eight pieces of
one and one-half yards each. Double each strand in the
middle and loop the eight through the iron ring (see Fig. 9).
Four inches from the ring start the knotting to form a mesh.
The overhand knot is used (see Plate I, Fig. 7). Take the
first two cords in the right hand, throw the cords in a circle
to the left and draw the two ends through it. Continue
across the hammock, knotting the strands in order and by
twos. One inch from the first row of knots make a second
row. In starting it, the first cord is omitted. This forms the
14 Occupations for Little Fingers
mesh. On the third row, the two outside strands are again
knotted in place. Continue the netting for eight or nine rows.
Gather the ends together and slip them through the second iron
ring and bind with half a yard of the fine cord. In large
hammocks, where there is to be some strain, the ends may
each in turn be passed around the ring and looped with an
overhand knot before binding.
To bind: Hold the net of the hammock in the left hand.
Take one end of the fine cord in the right hand, and place the
end of it as near the ring as possible and on top of the strands.
Carry the fine cord toward the netting for one inch and back
again toward the ring. A loop will thus
be formed. Begin to bind over this loop,
working from the ring toward the net.
When all the cord has been wound evenly
and tightly around the strands, put the
end through the loop over which the cord
has been bound. Take the first end of
the cord extending at the ring, and pull it
carefully. The loop will draw the cord
under the binding and then the ends may
be cut off close. Care must be taken not
to pull the cord all the way through or the
binding will be loosened.
Cut the heavy cord in two pieces. Double them in the
middle and loop one piece through each ring (see Fig. 9).
Knot the two ends of each with the overhand knot. Half-
way between the rings and the ends of these hangers make
another overhand knot in order to hold the cords se-
curely.
Large hammocks may be made in a similar way with heavy
cord and more strands. This makes very good work for
playgrounds where the hammocks are afterward used for the
babies.
PLATE I
1. Curtain cord.
2. Lanyard.
3. Whistle chain.
4. Scissors guard.
5. Reins.
CORD-WORK
6. Ties for Sailor Suit.
7. Overhand knot.
8. Square knot.
9. Weaver's knot.
ii. Soft whip.
12. Hammock.
13. Whip.
14. Sailor's knot.
16
Occupations for Little Fingers
XIL The Lash Whip
Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 16, 10 yards. — One piece of
J-inch rattan, 9 inches. Approximate cost per child. .02
From the length of cord cut off six yards for the binding of
the handle. Divide the remaining four yards into eight pieces
of half a yard each. The eight are to form the lash. At both
ends of each half-yard piece make an overhand knot close to
the end. From each knotted end work toward the middle
of the cord, making four more overhand knots at one and one-
half-inch intervals. There will be a space of three inches
left in the middle of each lash. This plain part is bound to
the handle.
One-half inch from the end of the rattan handle cut a
slight groove. Place the middle of each lash at the groove
and distribute them evenly
around the handle. Half of
the knotted lash will lie along
the handle and the other half
dangle from the end. Bind
them to the stick with the fine
cord tied in the groove. After
tying, shake the lashes down
in place, and start to cover the
handle with the cord binding.
Handle: Cut the six-yard
length of cord in half. Place
one piece at each side of the
handle, with one -inch end of
each piece lying on top of the lashes and the ends pointed
away from them. Bind with the fine cord. The lengths will
then be in position and ready for working over the rattan.
The first inch will be the most difficult, for it is necessary to.
work over the bound lashes. Using the stick as the founda-
tion, pass the left-hand cord over the stick, so it lies across
FIG. 10.
Some Uses for Cord and String 17
it. Pass the right-hand cord over the end of the left, then
under the stick and up through the loop formed by the left-
hand cord (see Fig. 10). The cord will twist itself, forming
the corkscrew appearance. Be careful to keep the left-hand
cord on top of the stick each time, for it is upon this that the
twist will depend.
The handle may be finished by holding the ends of cord in
place with a gilt- head tack nailed in the end of the handle.
A loop of cord or a braid may also be made for a hanger.
XIIL The Double Sailor's Knot
Materials. — Corset-laces or cord. (Number dependent on
the size of the bag desired.)
This knot may be used in making various kinds of bags.
Eighteen laces will make a small one. A foundation cord
is used at the top of the bag, and each lace is doubled and
looped around it (see Fig. 9).
Begin with two strands, one from each two groups. Make
a loop of the left-hand one and lay it on the right-hand strand.
Hold the loop in place while the right-hand end is woven
over and under and through the loop of the left-hand strand
(Fig. n).
CHAPTER III
A FEW SUGGESTIONS FOR RAFFIA
No material has opened up a larger field for children's
work than raffia. It is a tough, strong, yet pliable fibre,
which lends itself to many charming uses. Its natural color
is extremely artistic, and its properties are such that it may
be readily colored in many beautiful shades by the use of
vegetable dyes.
Raffia is imported from Madagascar, and is the outside
covering of a native palm which grows in great abundance in
that climate. The gathering and exporting of the fibre gives
employment to many of the inhabitants, both men and women.
In the following chapter will be given a few of its uses,
but it would be almost impossible to describe the many
articles which may be fashioned from a bunch of raffia.
Some persons prefer to work with raffia damp or wet, but as
soaking it makes it swell, it has been found that the best
results are obtained from the dry. The material works
better if it is used from the large end toward the small, as
the fibre grows that way, and it is not as liable to rough up.
L Brush Broom Holder
Materials. — A piece of stiff paper, 4 x pj inches. — Several
strands of raffia. — Tapestry needle, No. 18. — Thimble.
Approximate cost per child or
Fold the paper with the four-inch sides overlapping one
and one-half inches at the bottom and just meeting at the top,
and sew. This forms the case for the brush. Take a wide
strand of raffia and tie one end around the foundation case.
Begin winding at the back or pieced side. Wind over and
18
A Few Suggestions for Raffia 19
over, lapping the raffia carefully, until the paper is covered.
The raffia will have to be pieced, as the strands are not very
long; tie them together with an overhand knot and hide the
knots on the inside of the case. Make a braid of raffia, using
a color if possible, and sew it around the top and bottom for
decoration. Put a loop of the braid at the back for a hanger.
This is very simple work, and is suitable for young children.
IL Picture-Frame
Materials. — Cardboard, round or oval. — Several strands of
raffia. Approximate cost per child 01
Cut the cardboard the size and shape desired. From the
centre cut an opening the same shape, allowing an inch or
one and one-half inches for the width of the frame. The
largest end of a strand of raffia is brought up through the hole
and tied, the knot being placed on the wrong side. The end
is then put back through the opening, and brought up through
the loop formed (see Fig. 2). This is done closely all around
the frame. When a new strand is needed, tie it to the old
one, using an overhand or square knot. Care should be
taken to keep all the knots on the wrong side of the frame.
After the cardboard is filled, the edge may be further deco-
rated by placing a fancy stitch around it, or a braid of raffia.
The picture may be sewed in by the children. Raffia may be
used, and a loop left for the hanger. If a neater finish is
desired a piece of heavy paper may be glued or 'sewed on the
back and a Dennison hook attached.
III. Napkm-Ringf
Materials. — 2 pieces of J-inch flat splint, 8 inches. — Several
strands raffia. — Linen thread, No. 60. — Tapestry needle,
No. 20. — Sloyd knives. Approximate cost per child. .01
Cut the two pieces of splint exactly the same length.
Notch the ends and lap about an inch, and tie firmly with
20
PLATE II
i. Umbrella.
7. Picture-frame.
8. Picture-frame.
RAFFIA
9. Splint and raffia mat.
10. Needle-book.
12. Napkin-ring.
13. Hats.
16. Broom holder.
17. Solomon's knot bag.
A Few Suggestions for Raffia
21
FIG. 12.
the linen thread; be careful to have both
circles the same size. Tie a piece of raffia to
one circle and blanket-stitch, the same as the
frame. Cover the other circle in like manner.
In order to finish the blanket-
stitch neatly, thread the finish-
ing end into No. 20 tapestry
needle, and bring the end
through the first stitch. Fit
the two circles together with
the edge of the stitch to the
outside, and catch them to-
gether, using any fancy stitch
which the children know.
Feather-stitch and catch-stitch
lend themselves nicely to this work (see Fig. 12). The rings
may also be made of a single circle, in which case use two
colors and make a stitch first with one, then with the other,
keeping the two ends out on the opposite sides of the splint
(see Fig. 13).
IV. Needle-Book
Materials. — 2 circles of cardboard, 2\ inches in diameter. —
Several strands of raffia. — 2 circles of white flannel, 2
inches in diameter. — Tapestry
needles, No. 19. — Thimbles. Ap-
proximate cost per child 01
Cut the two circles from light-
weight cardboard or Bristol board,
and make a hole in the centre of
each. Thread the needle with a
strand of raffia, and bring it up
through the hole in the centre; tie
the end to hold it. Blanket-stitch
it in the same way as the picture-
FIG. 13.
22 Occupations for Little Fingers
frame, using a needle to pass the raffia through the centre of
the card. Blanket-stitch both circles, and fasten them to-
gether at one side, catching in leaves of flannel at the same
time. These leaves may be pinked, or finished with an even
or uneven blanket-stitch. Two braids for tying the book
may be made of the raffia and fastened to the circles opposite
where they are caught together.
V* Rain-Coat and Hat
Materials. — Raffia. Approximate cost per child 01
These primitive rain-coats are still worn by the coolies in
some parts of Japan and other warm countries. If the
children are studying primitive life, they will find the making
of these little garments most interesting. The large coats are
made of a sort of grass which is so thick that it serves the same
purpose as a thatched roof.
Take a piece of raffia about ten inches long, and tie on
thirty-two double pieces of raffia about twelve inches long.
These are tied on by doubling them in the centre and putting
the loop under the main piece and pulling the ends up through
the loop (see Fig. 9). After these are all tied, take one
strand from each pair of knots and tie them together with an
overhand knot about one inch from the first row. Then tie
one string from each knot together, leaving out the first and
last ones. Continue this for four or five rows, forming meshes
(see Hammock, in Cord Work), leaving out the first and last
string each time. If the children know how to braid, a fine
three-strand braid may be used in place of the foundation
strand of raffia. The ends of this braid form the ties which
hold the coat in place around the neck. The hat is made by
taking fourteen strands of raffia and tying them together at
the top to form the point of the hat. Divide into groups of
two strands each. Take a piece of raffia, double it in the
centre and place it around one group, bringing both ends
RAFFIA
2. Splint and raffia mat.
3. String ball.
4. String ball.
5. Braided mat.
6. Braided basket.
7. Coiled basket.
14. Shopping bag.
15. Rain coat and hat.
24
Occupations for Little Fingers
\
FIG. 14.
toward you. Take the left-hand end, bring it over the right,
in front of the first group and back of the next and out; then
the other end is brought over and under the next group and
out in front. This is called
pairing (see Fig. 14). This is
done for two rows; then a new
group is inserted between every
three groups. Weave three rows
of pairing, then leave a half-inch
space; make another row of
pairing, inserting a new group,
between each two of the old
ones. Continue pairing, spac-
ing one-half inch apart, and taking one strand from each
group and weaving them together (see Fig. 15) for three
rows. The border or finish is
made in the following manner:
Take each group and place it
under the next group to the
right and up ; do this all around
the hat, the last group passes
through the loop formed by FlG 15
the first. The second row is
made like the first, with the exception that the groups are
brought under the first group to the right, and down instead
of up. Cut off the ends, leaving about one inch.
VL Umbrella
Materials. — }-inch flat splint, 4 pieces, 4 inches in length.—
No. 2 rattan, i piece, 9 inches. — A few strands of raffia.
Approximate cost per child 01
Cross the four splints in the centre (see Fig. 16). Take a
strand of raffia, double .it and slip it around the back splint.
Use paired weaving (see Fig. 14), and when the mat is two
A Few Suggestions for Rajfia
25
FIG. 16.
inches in diameter, begin to draw
the weavers a little tighter to make
the curve of the umbrella. Con-
tinue weaving until it is three
inches in diameter. Thread the
ends of the weaver into a tapestry
needle and draw them into the
weaving. Cut the ends of the
splints in points. Take the piece
of nine-inch rattan, push one end
through the under centre splint.
Double so that the ends meet, and wind with raffia to form
the handle.
VII. Splint and Raffia Mat
Materials. — J-inch flat splint, 8 pieces, 6 inches. — Several
strands of raffia. — Tapestry needle, No. 29. Ap-
proximate cost per child . . . r 01
This mat is started in the same way as the umbrella.
After working once around insert the four extra spokes, one
at a time, between the original four (see Fig. 17). Con-
tinue with paired weaving, being careful to have the spokes
succeed each other in regu-
lar order. Allow the mat to
lie flat, and when within one
inch of the end of the spokes
fasten the weavers. Soak
the ends of the splint in
water for a short time to
make them pliable. Turn
them over and push them
down into the weaving. The
edge may be finished in a
number of ways. Thread
a tapestry needle with a
26 Occupations for Little Fingers
strand of raffia. Make a slanting stitch all around the edge ;
turn, and work the other way, crossing each stitch made in
the first row. The blanket-stitch may also be used (see
Fig. 2). It is well to let the children use their own ideas,
as far as possible, about finishing the edge.
VIIL String Ball
Materials. — 18 strands of raffia, plain and colored. — i small
brass ring. — i ball of colored twine. Approximate cost
per child 06
Take nine strands of plain raffia and nine of colored.
Double each strand and slip it on the ring in the same way as
in making the hammock (see Fig. 9). Care should be taken
to put the loop through the ring in the same direction each
time, also to alternate the colors. After all the strands are
looped on the ring, take one string of each
color from every pair and knot together,
using an overhand knot (see Fig. 18). The
knots should be placed one inch from the
ring. Tie all the strings together in this
manner. In knotting the second row take
the same colors and tie them together to
form the mesh, spacing the knots about
one and one-half inches below the first
row. The third row should be like the
FIG. 18. first> and the fourth like the second. Care
should be taken to keep the colors in
stripes as it makes a much more attractive bag. Continue
this until the bag is long enough to fit the ball of twine.
The top of the bag may be finished in a number of ways,
such as braiding the ends of the strands, and tying them
together at the top with a loop for hanger. It is well to
let the children use their own ideas about the finish at the
top, only remember that there must be space enough left in
A Few Suggestions for Raffia
27
order to slip in the ball of twine. The end of the twine should
come from the centre of the ball and fall through the ring
at the bottom of the bag.
Another way of starting the bag is to make a stirrup (or
loop) of raffia and knot the strands on this. The knots are
tied in the same manner as in the first bag, but the finish is
different. The strands are all fastened together at the bottom
of the bag instead of at the top, and the stirrup replaced by a
braid of raffia for drawing up the bag and serving as a hanger.
IX* Bagf of Solomon's Knots
Materials. — Plain raffia, 17 strands. — Colored raffia, 17
strands. Approximate cost per child 02
The knot for this bag is a little more difficult than the pre-
ceding one, therefore it is better work for older children.
Four strands are
needed, two to act
as the foundation
cords and the other
two to form the
knot. Tie the
thirty-four, strands
of raffia on to a stir-
rup, the same as in
the string bag, two
colors in each knot,
making seventeen
groups in all. Take two groups and bring the two inside
strands together and hold them. Bring the left-hand strand
down and over the foundation strands, the right-hand strand
down over the end of the left hand, under the foundation
and up through the loop formed by the first (see Fig. 19).
This forms half of the knot. The second step is like the
first, but the right-hand strand is brought down first over the
FIG. 19.
28 Occupations for Little Fingers
foundation, the left-hand one down over the end of the right,
under the foundation, and up through the loop. This knot
is really a square knot tied over the foundation cord. A row
of these knots is tied all around the bag, about one inch from
the top. In the second row leave out the first two strands and
take two from each group, tying them to form meshes. Space
the knots about one inch apart, being careful to keep the colors
in stripes. The third row is like the first. Continue with the
meshes until the bag is the desired depth. Fasten together at
the bottom by tying the strands from the two sides together in
groups of knots, using eight instead of four. Bars may be
made by tying several knots on the same foundation. A pretty
finish is made by putting several knots on the same foundation,
but instead of placing first the right-hand one over and then
the left, using the same hand each time. This alternates the
colors and makes the bar twist. Fringe out the raffia at the
ends of the bars. These bars may be put in the body of
the bag for decoration. Finish at the top with a braid of
raffia. A little bag of silk or cotton may be placed inside
and drawn up with ribbons.
X. Coiled Baskets
Materials. — Raffia, plain and colored. — Tapestry needle,
No. 19. — Thimble. Approximate cost per child ... .02
Take enough strands of raffia to make a coil about the size
of the finger. Begin at the large end and wind with a strand
of colored raffia, spacing about one-half inch apart. When
the coil begins to get small add new strands to keep the size
uniform. To piece the colored raffia tie the new strand to the
old with an overhand knot, winding down the ends to make it
as nea-t as possible. Have the children wind two or three
yards and then tie the end of the winding strand to hold it in
place before beginning to sew. Thread a piece of the plain
raffia in the tapestry needle. Start from the large end of the
A Few Suggestions for Raffia
29
coil, curve it around in as small a circle as possible, and fasten
with two or three stitches (see Fig. 200). Begin sewing with
the pointed stitch (see Fig. 206) taking it
through the old coil into the new. The
basket may be made in any shape. It is
well to have the children draw a design of
it before they start work. The shaping
depends on the
/ \ / angle at which
the coil is laid.
FIG. 20. In nnishing, the
end is sewed
down on the inside of the basket, or brought over the top to
the opposite side to form a handle. This basket is very
simple, easy work, and is suitable for young children.
XL Braided Basket
Materials. — Raffia. — Tapestry needle, No. 19. — Thimble.
Approximate cost per child 02
Three-strand braiding has been described in the chapter on
Cord Work under "Ties for Sailor Suits." Raffia braided in
this style lends itself to many attractive articles. A three-
strand braid is made, using three or four pieces of raffia in
each strand of the braid. As the raffia is not the same size
the whole of its length, it is necessary to piece it when it
becomes thin. This is done by laying in a new strand where
the old one is growing thin and braiding it in. After the
braid is finished, these rough ends may be clipped off. Make
about five yards of braid and then begin the sewing. Thread
the tapestry needle with a strand of raffia, wind the be-
ginning of the braid several times and take one stitch through
to fasten it. Begin coiling, in the same way as in the first
basket described, holding the braid on edge instead of flat.
Take several stitches through to hold it firmly ; then sew with
30 Occupations for Little Fingers
the same pointed stitch as described under the coiled basket.
Keep the braid on edge, and continue until the bottom is
about three inches in diameter. Begin building up the
sides by laying each row outside of the former one, and lapping
to about the centre. These braids will also have to be held
at an angle to the bottom to make the sides flare as they should.
When within three or four inches of the top a pattern may
be introduced in the following manner: Make one strand of
the braid of colored raffia, and continue braiding until you
have enough for three rows around the basket; then make
two strands of color for three rows more, then the whole
braid of color for three rows. This decoration may be put
in the centre of the basket in the same way, if desired.
The finish at the top is made
by sewing down the end of the
braid firmly on the inside.
XIL Braided Mat
Materials. — Raffia, plain and
colored. — Tapestry nee-
dle, No. 19.— Thimble.
Approximate cost per
child 02
The principle of the mat
is the same as in the preced-
ing basket. Make a three-
FIG. 21. , , . , . , .
strand braid, using plain and
colored raffia, with two pieces in each strand of the braid.
Start it in the same way as the braided basket, holding the
braid on edge, and sew until the mat is the size desired, four
or five inches in diameter. Then make the border around
the edge, forming the braid in points or rings (see Fig. 21).
This mat will take from five to eight yards of braiding, ac-
cording to size. Finish by sewing the end down firmly on
the under side.
A Few Suggestions for Raffia 31
XIIL Doll's Hat
Materials. — Raffia, plain and colored. — Tapestry needle, No.
19. — Thimble. Approximate cost per child 02
A four- or five-strand braid may be used for this, or, if
given to young children, one of three strands. Four-strand
braids are made in much the same as one of three, with the
exception that one outside strand goes over the next and
to the centre, and the other outside one under the next and to
the centre. This principle holds with all even-numbered
braiding, while in the uneven the outside strands always go
over the next and toward the centre. If one keeps in mind
the principle of weaving, braiding with any number of strands
will be comparatively easy. The little hat is started the same
as the basket, but the braid is laid flat instead of on the side.
Form the top of the crown first, then the side crown by placing
the braid at right angles to the top. The brim is made by
placing the braid at right angles to the side crown. The
children should have an idea of what shape they are to make
the hat, and what the size of the crown is to be, before they
start sewing. The trimming may be done with colored
raffia or ribbon. These hats take about five yards of braid.
Hats for the children may be made in the same manner;
they take about one pound of raffia, and require about twelve
yards of braid.
XIV* Shopping-Bag
Materials. — A bunch of raffia. — Rattan, No. 4, 2 pieces, 15
inches. — Brass rings, 2. — Netting-needle. — Mesh-stick.
— Approximate cost per child 02
This work will be found too difficult for young children,
but is interesting to boys and girls of ten or twelve.
The first step is to wind the netting-needle. Tie fifteen
or more strands of raffia together to form long strings. Try
32
Occupations for Little Fingers
to select strands that are of an even size. Begin to wind,
holding the end with the thumb until it is fastened down.
The raffia is brought around one of the points at the bottom,
and carried up to the tongue at the top, where it is passed
around it in the opposite direction from where it started. If
it starts on the left-hand side of the needle, it passes around
the tongue from right to left, so that each winding crosses
the preceding one. Fill the needle as full as possible. Make
a stirrup of raffia and tie the end from the netting-needle to it
with an overhand knot about one inch from the, stirrup.
Hold the mesh-stick in the left hand between the thumb and
first finger (see Fig.
22), and the needle in
the right hand. Bring
the raffia over the
mesh-stick, around it
and up through the
loop of the stirrup.
Carry it down to the
stick again, and hold
it with the thumb.
Throw the raffia to
FlG 22 the left and bring the
needle up through the
loop formed (see Fig. 22). Cast on fourteen stitches in this
way. Slip out the mesh-stick, turn the work over, and begin
the second row. This is made like the first, the needle pass-
ing up through the loops formed by the first row of stitches.
Care must be taken to tie the knot over the loop and not to
let it slip below, as the netting will not then be firm (see
Fig. 22). Make nineteen rows of netting, fasten the end
and take out the stirrup.
Bend the two pieces of rattan with the ends meeting in the
centre. Braid two three-strand braids eleven inches long and
run them through the meshes in order to draw up the bag at
A Few Suggestions for Raffia 33
the sides. Blanket-stitch the rings. Wind one curved end of
rattan with raffia for about an inch. Insert the end of the
braid which has been put through one ring between the two
pieces, and wind down. Wind over the double rattan, keeping
it flat, and catch in each loop of the netting at regular intervals.
When one inch from the other end put in the second braid
and ring and wind to the end of the rattan. The end of
raffia is fastened by running it into the winding. Run the
long end of the braid through the loops at the side of the netting
and finish the other end of the bag in the same way as the first.
The handles are made of heavy three-strand braids about
eight inches long. These are fastened into the rings in the
same manner as the strings of the hammock are bound (see
Hammock, Chapter II). This same netting may be done
with cord and made into a number of articles, such as but-
terfly-nets, school-bags, etc.
CHAPTER IV
COARSE SEWING
COARSE sewing has been introduced into some of the grade
schools as one of the forms of manual training. Educators
have realized for some time that the fine sewing and finely
pricked cards of former years were not suited to the adjust-
ments which it is possible for young children in the kinder-
garten and early grades to make. In the study of primitive
races, one notices the crudity of their early tools and efforts.
Children in the same way, in learning the early control of
their muscles, will begin in a very crude manner and will
have much difficulty in using tools.
The cardboard sewing of a very simple character may
precede the canvas work. Scope should be given for creative
thought in the decoration of the work and in planning for its
use. Color, design, and the relation of line to space are
incidentally taught. The fact that it is of use and finds a
place in the life and thought of the child should be its excuse
for being — if an excuse were necessary. Kindergarten cards
may be used for this purpose or, if large articles are to be
made, the Bristol board may be purchased by the sheet. In
the cardboard sewing, the teacher should aim to have the
designs carried out in long stitches.
For the canvas work, burlap, basket burlap, Java canvas or
burlap canvas may be used, the burlap being the most inex-
pensive material for large classes. In the canvas work the
children learn easily the form of the stitches which in later
years are applied in the fine sewing. There is also much
34
Coarse Sewing 35
scope in this work for the teaching of harmony of color and
design.
Raffia, either in plain or color, makes an inexpensive and
effective material for decoration. Germantown wool or
Poseidon cotton may also be used. San silk materially re-
duces the cost, but is not so attractive.
CARDBOARD SEWING
L Pen-wiper
Materials. — Kindergarten cards, 5x5 inches. — Wool or
Poseidon cotton, J skein. — Tapestry needles, No. 19 or
No. 20. — Pricking-pad and needle. — Chamois or flannel,
4x4 inches. Approximate cost per child 01
Have a pattern pricked on the cards, the simpler the better.
Begin with a knot and join the holes with long stitches; if
the pattern can be followed on the back and face of the card,
the work is more satisfactory. Work two cards alike, and
join them together at one side, placing two leaves of chamois
between. As far as possible let the children use their own
ideas about fastening.
Needle-books may be made in the same manner, by placing
two leaves of pinked flannel between in place of chamois.
The size of the cards may vary.
IL Blotter
Materials. — Bristol board. — Wool or Poseidon cotton, J skein.
—Tapestry needles, No. 19 or No. 20. — Pricking-pad
and needle. — Blotting-paper. Approximate cost per
child 02
After a simple pattern has been pricked on the card, it may
be sewed in a manner similar to the pen-wiper. Place the
blotting-paper, which is of the same size as the card, under it,
and sew at the corners with a small cross-stitch.
PLATE IV
COARSE SEWING
1. Needle-book.
2. Blotter.
4. Napkin-ring.
5. Hair-receiver.
6. Pencil-case.
7. Blotter corners.
8. Letter-case.
9. Iron-holder
10. Book-cover.
ii. Table-cover.
15. Pin-ball.
16. Bag.
Coarse Sewing
37
III. Match-scratcher
Materials. — Kindergarten cards, 5x5 inches. — Wool or
Poseidon cotton, J skein. — Tapestry needles, No. 19 or
No. 20. — Pricking-pad and needle. — Sand-paper, 2x3
inches. Approximate cost per child 01
The design for the match-scratcher may be made on the
upper part of the card, then pricked and sewed. Glue the
sand-paper on the lower por-
tion so that it is in the right
relation to the space above.
IV. Napkin-Ring
Materials. — Burlap canvas,
8x2 inches. — Wool or
Poseidon cotton, J skein.
—Thimbles. — Needles. —
Tapestry, No. 19 or No.
20. Approximate cost per
child 01
Round evenly one end of the
strip: this will be the lap in
the finished ring. With an irregular blanket-stitch (see
Fig. 23) work around all four sides to prevent it from fraying.
Lap the round end over the square about one inch and sew
through the two thicknesses with a decorative stitch. The
initial of the child makes an interesting finish and serves as a
means of distinguishing one from another at table.
FIG. 23.
V. Hair-Receiver
Materials. — Burlap canvas, 5 J x 5^ inches. — Poseidon cotton,
J skein. — Needles, tapestry, No. 19 or No. 20. — Thimbles.
Approximate cost per child 02
Carefully blanket-stitch three sides of the square (see Fig.
24). Fold the side next to the unfinished side over the rough
38 Occupations for Little Fingers
edge and tack in three or four places with small stitches. A
loop of the cotton may be put through the pointed top and
tied in a small bow. This serves as a hanger.
VL Pencil-Case
Materials. — Burlap canvas, 13x2} inches. — Poseidon cotton,
\ skein. — Needles, tapestry,
No. 19 or No. 20. — Thim-
bles. Approximate cost per
child 002
Round evenly both ends
of the strip. Fold one
round end over to within
two inches of the other.
Pin carefully and blanket-
„ stitch the edges. A simple
FIG. 24.
running stitch (see Fig. 25)
may be used as ornamentation through the middle of the
case, but must
be put on be-
fore the ma-
terial is fold- . ii i
ed. If the
running stitch
is taken
through the
two thick-
nesses, it will divide the case for two pencils. If no division
is made, the case may be used as a tooth-brush holder.
VIL Blotter-Comers
Materials. — 4 pieces of burlap canvas, 4} x 2} inches.—
Poseidon cotton, J skein. Approximate cost per child. .02
Blanket-stitch the four sides of the strip (see Fig. 24).
Coarse Sewing
39
Fold the ends together to ^
meet the long side, thus
forming a tent shape. With-
in this triangle, which will
appear on the upper side of
the blotter, make some
simple ornamentation with
the cross-stitch (see Fig.
26). This can be done be-
fore the ends are tacked together on the under side,
canvas on the corners of a large blotter and tack.
FIG. 26.
Slip the
VIIL Letter-Case
Materials. — Burlap canvas, 6| x 15 inches. — Poseidon cotton,
ij skeins. — Crewel needle, No. i or No. 2. — Thimbles.
Approximate cost per child 08
Decide on a decoration which may take the form of a border
across the ends or around the whole case (see Fig. 27). Use
the cross-stitch and the running or back stitching in com-
bination. Put an even or uneven blanket-stitch across the
ends (see Figs.
23 and 24). Fold
the ends to with-
in one-half inch
of the centre,
pin, and blanket-
stitch the sides
through the two
thicknesses. Fin-
ish with a cord
and tassel made
of Poseidon cot-
ton tied on at
FIG. 27. the centre.
40
Occupations for Litlle Fingers
Cord. — This is made by taking two strands of cotton and
twisting them. Let two children work together, one twisting
each way, double this cord in the centre, and twist together.
Place a knot one inch from each end and fringe.
IX. Iron-Holder
M aterials.^- Basket burlap, 12x4 inches and 6 x i inches.—
Poseidon cotton, i skein.
— Crewel needle, No. 2.—
Thimble. Approximate
cost per child ---- ... .04
Place the design in cross-
stitch about two inches
down from each end of
the twelve-inch strip (see
Fig. 28). Two colors may
be used effectively. Finish
the four-inch ends with an
uneven blanket-stitch, fold
them together evenly and
continue the stitch at the sides. Finish the edges of the
narrow strip in like manner, double and fasten it at the
upper left corner for the hanger. Slip a piece of thin asbestos
inside the case.
X* Book-Cover •
FIG. 28.
Materials. — Basket burlap, 6J x loj inches.— Poseidon cotton,
2 skeins. — Crewel needles, No. 2. Approximate cost
per child ...................................... 07
Fold the burlap to find the centre of the longest side; this
will form the front of the cover. Place a simple design in
the centre, using the cross-stitch (see Fig. 26), or a border
made with a combination of the running-stitch, cross-stitch
or back-stitch. Letters may also be used worked with cross-
Coarse Sewing
41
stitch. Finish the edge with an even blanket-stitch, and tie
in several sheets of paper to form the leaves, using a cord
and tassels. These books may be used for notes, recipes,
scrap-books, etc.
Magazine-covers may be made in the same way. Find
the dimensions and place one one and one-half inch strip of
canvas, finished at the edge with the blanket-stitch, at each
end of the cover on the wrong side, and one and one-half
inches in from each end. This will hold the cover of the
magazine.
XL Doll's Table-Cover
Materials. — Java canvas, 6x6 inches. — Raffia, plain or
colored, 5 strands. — Crewel needles, No. i. — Thimbles.
Approximate cost per child 02
The decorations on this article may be made with long
stitches arranged systematically to form a line design. A
border may be used, or the whole centre filled with decora-
tion. The edge may be finished
by turning up one-quarter of
an inch and blanket-stitching, I S J -3
or by tying in a fringe.
FIG. 29.
Fringe. — Wind silk or raffia around a card, one and one-
half inches wide, a number of times; cut through at one edge.
In order to tie into the table-cover, use a small crochet-hook
or a tapestry needle, No. 19; double each strand; pull the loop
through the edge (see Fig. 29), and draw the ends through the
loop.
42
Occupations for Little Fingers
XIL Pillow for Doll's House
Materials. — 2 pieces Java canvas, 6x6 inches. — Crewel
needles, No. i. — Cotton batting. — Thimble. Approxi-
mate cost per child 03
The decoration may be placed in the centre of the cushion
or form a border around
the edge. If it is to fill
ma the centre, divide the
square in quarters,
either on the straight
or the diagonal; this
gives a centre to work
from, and the spaces
FIG. 30. are to be filled with the
repeat.
Two or more colors may be used effectively in this decora-
tion. After the design is worked, which should be done with
long, straight stitches, lay
the two squares face to-
gether and sew around three
sides, one-quarter of an inch
from the edge, using two
runs and a back-stitch
(Fig. 30). Turn it right
side out and stuff with cot-
ton. Be careful to fill the
corners well. Turn in the
edges of the opening and „
run or overhand them to-
gether (Fig. 31). Finish the edge with cord or a braid of
raffia.
Coarse Sewing 43
XIIL Iron-holder
Materials. — Denim, 5x5 inches. — Interlining, 4x4 inches.
San silk. — Crewel needle, No. 2. — Thimble. Approx-
imate cost per child 02
Fold the interlining until it is four inches square. Fold a
one-half inch turning around both pieces of denim, taking
care to fold the opposite sides of the square first and then the
remaining sides. Fit together at the corners by slipping the
turnings under each other (they
will lie much flatter). Baste
the two sides, put in the inter-
lining, and continue basting
around the holder. Finish the
edge with an overcasting stitch
done in San silk (see Fig. 32),
first one way all around and
then cross each stitch, working
in the opposite direction. Put
a large cross or star in the
centre; this will make a decora- pIG
tion and will also serve to hold
the interlining. The legs of old stockings make excellent
interlining for holders; fold them flat, the size required, and
turn the end over to hold them. A loop of braid or tape
may be added to one corner of the holder for a hanger; or a
longer piece may be sewed on, with a safety pin in the other
end to fasten it to the belt while in use.
XIV. Bean-Bag
Materials. — Denim, 5x10 inches. — Colored cotton, No. 50. —
Needle, No. 7. — Beans. Approximate cost per child . .02
Fold the denim to form a square with the right sides
together and baste carefully around three sides. Sew two
44
Occupations for Little Fingers
FIG. 33.
sides and half of the
third, using a back-
stitch (see Fig. 33) one-
quarter of an inch from
the edge. Turn inside
out, being careful to
make square corners.
Fill with the beans;
turn in the edge of the opening, baste, and sew, using an
overhand stitch (see Fig. 31).
XV. Pin-Ball-
Materials. — 2 cardboard circles, 2j inches in diameter. — 2
circles of denim, 3^ inches in diameter. — Poseidon
cotton, . J skein. Approximate cost per child 01
On one piece of denim sketch some pleasing design, and
place it well in the centre. This may be outlined by couching
with a thread of contrasting color (see Fig. 34). Couching is
done by holding a heavy cord (as Poseidon) over the line of
design and sewing it down with straight stitches of a finer
silk ; the stitches to be taken about one-eighth of an inch apart.
Make a row of running stitches one-eighth of an inch from
the edge of the denim, slip in the circles of cardboard and
draw up the thread. Catch firmly with long stitches back
and forth. Gather the
edge of the other circle in a
similar way "over the card-
board. The two circles
may be joined together
back to back by' holding
a thread of. Poseidon
around the edge and over-
handing it (see Fig. 31),
or by simply overhanding
the two together. -
FIG. 34.
Coarse Sewing 45
XVL Denim Bag
Materials. — Denim, 16x5^ inches. Heavy mercerized cotton,
J skein. — Needles. — Thimbles. — 40 cotton. Approx-
imate cost per child 04
Double the strip so that the two right sides are together.
There will be no seam at the bottom of the bag. Seam the
sides to within three inches of the top. Use a combination
stitch of two runs and a back stitch (see Fig. 30). At each
end, turn down one and three-quarter inches on the right side
of the bag. Seam down each side for one and one-half
inches — same width as used in the long seam of the bag.
Turn this over to the wrong side. Turn under one-quarter
of an inch and hem down. One-quarter of an inch above
this hem, on both sides of the bag, make a running stitch for
the casing.
If the bag is to be ornamented, it must be done before it is
seamed at the sides. The design should be very simple.
Sketch it on paper, cut it out and paste it on an extra piece of
denim. Cut out the denim according to design and baste
this on the bag. The paper will be between the two pieces
of denim. Take heavy mercerized cotton and lay around
the design, couching it down with a different color (see Fig.
34). In putting in the draw-string at the top, begin at one
side, run the cord through the casing all the way around to
where it was started. In starting the other string, begin at the
opposite side and run it around in the other direction to the
first string. Draw up the cords and sew or lie the ends
together.
The bags may be used for work-bags, marbles, or, if larger
in size, for skates.
CHAPTER V
PAPER CUTTING AND FOLDING
PAPER cutting and folding are other forms of handwork
which may be used in many delightful ways at home, or
in the school-room in connection with other studies. It is
closely allied to drawing and cultivates alertness and powers
of observation, especially when the cutting is free-hand work.
Many forms of symmetry and life may be made with the
kindergarten folding papers, and are of deep interest to the
children. As the fingers grow in strength, a heavier paper or
cardboard may be used for the construction work. Plain
cartridge wall-paper is inexpensive and can be used ad-
vantageously in large classes. Bogus paper and even news-
papers may be utilized in a similar way.
In lessons in folding, the children must learn to follow the
directions given in a quick, accurate way.
For the work in cutting or silhouetting plain black or white
paper is the best. Kindergarten papers 4x4 inches may be
bought in all colors and are best adapted for the conventional
designs. These may be mounted on the tops of boxes and
other articles as a decoration, or used in stencil work, as ex-
plained in the following chapter. With young children it is
preferable to use blunt-pointed scissors and inexpensive
paper.
The following outlines may be suggestive of much that may
be worked out in relation to the other class-room work. It
may be a foundation for later work in more difficult con-
struction.
46
PLATE V
47
i. Accordion.
•2. Paper dolls.
PAPER CUTTING
3. Stencil.
4. Free-hand cutting.
Free-hand cutting.
Paper tearing.
48
Occupations for Little Fingers
FIG. 35.
I, A Simple Transparency
Materials. — Gray card, 4x5 inches. — Yellow tissue paper,
4x5 inches. — Poseidon or cord, \ yard. Approximate
cost per child 01
Have the children draw a picture of a crescent moon and a
star (see Fig. 35). If the un-
glazed card is used, draw at
once upon it, as mistakes are
easily erased; otherwise, the
sketch may first be made upon
a slip of paper. Cut on the
line sketched and remove the
moon and star. These may
be pasted on another card if
cut away without being torn.
On the other side paste the
yellow tissue paper and make
two holes at the top for
the cord. This transparency may be hung in the window.
Any other designs may be cut from the card in a similar
way.
IL Paper Accordion
Materials. — 2 strips of paper, 2 yards x i J inches.
The paper accordions afford a great deal of amusement to
very young children. They may be
made of newspaper or any scraps of
colored paper — red, white, and blue
are especially pleasing. If made of
the colors, the strips must be pasted
together first, so that the accordion
is started with two long pieces one
and one-half inches wide. Lap strip
a on strip b (see Fig. 36), so that a
square is formed at c. The ac- FIG. 36.
(u
Paper Cutting and Folding
49
cordion is built up on this square. Fold b over a on the
square c, fold a over b; continue until the strips have all been
folded.
If made of color, the accordions are a pleasing Christmas-
tree decoration. They may be made of strips of any width,
and any number of yards may be put in each. For young
children do not cut the strips too narrow.
IIL Pin-Wheel
Materials. — i square of paper,
dowel-stick, 8 inches.
5x5 inches. — i J inch
Find the centre of the paper and place a dot. Fold the
square corner to corner, both ways, to crease the diagonals.
Cut on these lines ^
from each corner of
the square to within
half an inch of the
centre (see Fig. 37).
After Tutting, there
will be eight points,
two at each corner of
the square. Every
other point is to be
lapped over the centre
and the pin put
through the five thick-
nesses. A small cu ^
- r FIG. 37.
square of paper of
another color may be put on before the pin is put through the
pin-wheel and pressed into the end of the stick.
Pin-wheels may be made of two thicknesses of paper and of
two colors ; they are then cut together and one color forms the
lining. They run better when made in this way.
50
Occupations for Little Fingers
IV* Paper Dolls
Materials. — i strip of paper, i yard by 4 inches.
Fold the paper so that the two short edges will lie together.
This will make the strip half a yard in length, but of two
thicknesses. Fold again in a similar way, making four
thicknesses. Continue until the strip is folded to about a
width of one and one-half inches. With the scissors cut in a
free way the outline of the doll; if necessary, sketch it before
cutting (see Fig. 38). Care must be taken not to cut through
the folds at a and b of the sketch, as the
dolls will not be joined if the folds are cut.
The father doll and children may also
be made in a similar way. Animals make
an interesting variation (see Plate V, No. 6).
V* Designs for Stencils
Materials. — Strips of heavy paraffine or
oiled paper.
Plate V, No. 3, shows a stencil which
has been made from a strip of paper three
by ten inches. Ordinary heavy brown
paper may be used if no oiled paper is
available. Fold in the same manner as the
strip for the paper dolls, and cut the design free-hand. It
is impossible, to determine before cutting what the design is
to be, and the surprises when the strip is unfolded are often
very satisfactory.
The stencil may be used as a strip where a repetition of units
is desired, or one unit may be cut away and used in the
decoration of objects. India-ink or water-colors may be
used with the stencil on the gray mat paper.
Mats, sofa-cushions, screens, curtains, etc., may be deco-
rated by use of the stencil with paints or dye's.
FIG. 38.
Paper Cutting and Folding
51
VL Free Cutting of Conventional Designs
Materials. — Squares of paper of any color.
Place the square on the table so that it lies with the corner
toward you. Turn the corner nearest you until it lies on the
one opposite, a-b is the folded edge toward you (see Fig. 39).
Fold again so that point b lies on a. The triangle is then pre-
FIG. 39.
pared for cutting; this may be done in any free way. Plate
VI, No. 3, shows several results of this conventional cutting.
The pieces cut may be used in the decoration of boxes or
other objects.
VII. Free Cutting or Tearing of Objects
Materials. — White or black paper.
Either the glazed or unglazed paper may be used for this
purpose. The object to be copied may be placed before the
children, or free range given to the imagination if objects are
52
Occupations for Little Fingers
not available. No directions should be given, as they should
be allowed to cut or tear in a free way. Astonishing results
are often obtained. Single objects or scenes may be por-
trayed, and profiles of friends and classmates made en
silhouette. This work is interesting to the older children,
and the results are very pleasing (see Plate V, No. 6).
VIII. Picture-Frame
Materials. — i square of paper, 8x8 inches. — 3 pieces of
Poseidon or ribbon, 6 inches each. — i piece of Poseidon,
10 inches.
Find the centre of the paper and fold all four corners until
they meet at that centre (see Fig. 40 a-b). Fold the same
corners back to the side of square first formed.
Holes may be punched through the double thicknesses
FIG. 40.
and small bows tied in three corners (see Plate VI, No. 4).
The longest ribbon is used for the hanger at the fourth
corner.
Wall-paper, if it is a plain color, cartridge, or bogus paper
may be used for folding.
Paper Cutting and Folding
53
IX. Newspaper-Holder or Wall-Pocket
Materials. — i square of cardboard, 8x8 inches. — i piece of
Poseidon or ribbon, 8 inches. — i piece of Poseidon or
ribbon, 10 inches.
One inch from the two opposite corners a and b make holes
with a punch or scissors (see Fig. 41-1). Fold a and b until
the holes lie on top of each other. Tie the eight-inch piece of
ribbon through the two holes and around the card to hold it
securely in place (see Fig. 41-2). a
At c and d of sketch 2, make
holes through the two thick-
nesses and put the ten-inch rib-
bon through for a hanger (see
Plate VI, No. 5).
X. Office-Card
Materials. — i gray card, 8x8
inches. — 2 pieces white card-
. board, 6 x i J inches.
Four slits are to be cut in the
square card to enable the free
passage of the white cardboard
strips. From the upper right-
hand corner measure down one
and three-quarter inches and
place a dot. Measure in from the dot to the edge of the paper
two and one-half inches and place another dot; from this dot
cut with a penknife, using a ruler for guide, a slit one and
three-eighths inches long and parallel to the edge of the card.
Two inches below the end of this slit cut another, one and three-
eighths inches long, and also parallel to the edge. Three
inches to the left of both slits cut two more, exactly parallel
to them and two and one-half inches from the left-hand edge.
FIG. 41.
54
Occupations for Little Fingers
n
The words "In" and " Out" are to be printed in the middle
of the white strips, and the strips turned, as occasion de-
mands. This makes a useful article to hang in the hallway.
It is possible to have the name of the person using it printed
above the upper strip or between
& the two. Make two holes at the
top for the ribbon hanger.
XL Screen for Doll's House
Materials. — Gray mounting paper,
6x9 inches.
Divide the oblong into three
sections of three by six inches.
Rule the division lines lightly,
lengthwise of the cardboard.
With a horseshoe-nail score the
cardboard, using a ruler for
guide; bend and fold in thirds.
At the bottom and top of each
section, remove a piece of card-
board, two by one-half inches to
make the feet and finish for the
top of the screen. In order to do so accurately, measure in
from each edge one-half an inch and down one-half an inch
and cut out (see Fig. 42).
The screen may be decorated with the stencilled design,
or left perfectly plain.
FIG. 42.
XIL Envelopes
Materials. — Cartridge paper, or any suitable kind for fancy
or plain envelopes.
The envelopes may be made of any dimension, according to
the size desired. For note-paper and the children's use in
Paper Cutting and Folding
55
cu
A
/
1 &
\
\
± 3
/
V
FIG. 43.
class, have them cut the paper six by
eight inches and divide it into two-
inch squares. Rule lightly, so that
the lines may not show on the finished
envelope.
Remove the four corner squares
(see Fig. 43). Draw lines connecting
point b with i and 2, a with i and 4, c
with 2 and 3, d with 3 and 4. Cut out
the envelope on the lines just drawn.
Fold down the two sharp points b and
d. Point a is folded over them and
glued where the two edges cover each other, the fourth side
is for sealing.
XIIL Square Box with Covet
Materials. — Gray cardboard. — i 4-inch sheet of colored
kindergarten paper.
Draw a three and one-half inch square. From each corner
continue the lines one and one-half inches. Connect the
lines drawn to form the sides of the box. After it is cut, it is
to be folded into
shape, but some al-
lowance must be made
for pasting the corners
before the outline of
the box is cut (see Fig.
44). In every corner
make an allowance of
one-quarter of an inch
according to the dot-
ted lines. Cut out the
box with care, espe-
cially where the al-
FIG. 44. lowance has been
56
Occupations for Little Fingers
made for the turnings. Score, fold into shape, and glue the
corners.
Cover. — Draw a square three and three-quarter inches.
Continue the lines from the corner one inch in both directions.
Connect the lines to form the sides of the cover (see Fig. 44).
Make the corner allowances for pasting, the same as the
bottom of the box.
The cover may be decorated with the sheet of kindergarten
paper. Fold it as described under Conventional Cutting,
and make a free-hand form.
XIV* Lamp or Candle Shade. No. \
Materials. — Gray cardboard. — 3 yards of Poseidon or baby
ribbon.
This shade is composed of five pieces of similar shape, tied
together. One piece must be drawn according to dimensions,
and the others cut the same size.
Draw a line four inches long and bisect it. From the point
of bisection erect a perpendicular line two and one-half inches
long. On each side of the perpendicular draw a line one inch
Paper Cutting and Folding 57
in length and parallel to the four-inch line. Connect the .
ends of the four-inch line with the ends of the line drawn
parallel to it (see Fig. 45). Cut out the form and make four
other pieces like it. Sketch the same simple design on all.
After drawing the design, the outline may be pricked with a
pin and the portion of cardboard inside the outline perforated
with pinholes. Use a large pin and have the rough side of
the pricking for the outside — in other words, prick from the
inside toward the outside. The perforations allow the light
to shine through. In each angle of all five pieces make a hole
with a punch and tie them into shape. The four-inch sides
of the forms make the bottom of the shade.
XV. Lamp Shade, No. 2
Materials. — Cardboard. — Rice paper. — India-ink.
This shade is made up of four sides, and a portion of each is
cut away and rice paper used for the transparency.
Draw an eight-inch line and bisect it. Erect a perpendicular
from the point of bisection, four inches in length. On each
side ol the end of the perpendicular erected, and at right
angles to it,
draw a two-
inch line.
Connect the
ends of the
two-inch lines
with the ends
of the eight- ' FlG. 46.
inch line. Cut
out the form drawn, and make three others like it. Three-
quarters of an inch inside of the edge of the forms made,
draw another outline parallel to it (see Fig. 46). With a
penknife cut carefully on the line just drawn and remove the
piece of cardboard from the centre of the form. Cut four
PLATE VI
PAPER CUTTING AND FOLDING
1. Transparency.
2. Pin-wheel.
3. Conventional cutting
4. Picture-frame.
5. Wall-pocket.
6. Office card.
7. Screen.
8. Envelope.
9. Box.
10. Lamp-shade.
n. Lamp-shade.
Paper Cutting and Folding 59
pieces of rice paper a trifle smaller than the original form
and make some simple design on them, using India-ink.
Paste one beneath each piece of cardboard. Care must be
taken to have the designs well placed in the space from which
the cardboard has been removed.
If this work is executed neatly a very attractive lampshade
may be made. After the four sides have been prepared, they
may be pasted together with paper hinges.
CHAPTER VI
SOME STORIES IN CLAY
CLAY offers another medium of free expression for the
child. He has the whole world and life about him bringing
him daily impressions, and as he expresses himself in various
ways he learns to understand this world of things. Many a
story has been worked out and told on the sands of the sea-
shore and in the mud-pie period of childhood.
Clay modelling may be made of deep significance and
educational value. It cultivates careful attention and obser-
vation, and is of interest to the child. The work of young
children will necessarily be crude — but it is still the childish
expression, and high art is not the aim of this work.
Potters' gray clay is the best material for this purpose. It
should be as free from lumps as possible, and not too brittle
when presented for use. It should be kept moist in tin boxes,
or in an iron pail covered with a rubber cloth, to prevent
evaporation.
Old slates or squares of oil-cloth for protection of the desks
may be used, but if these are not available, heavy glazed paper
will answer. It is not necessary to have many tools for this
simple work. Knitting-needles, hairpins, wooden toothpicks,
slate-pencils and small pieces of string or wire, will be found
of much help. The handle of a spoon makes a good tool.
Kindergarten supply places offer tools for sale; they are help-
ful, but one can manage without them, if money is not
available for the purpose.
Before presenting the clay to the child, the teacher should
see that it is in a favorable condition. It should be soft, and
yield easily to the pressure of the thumb, but not sticky.
60
PLATE VII
61
1. Bird life.
2. Plant life.
3. Seashore life.
CLAY MODELLING
4. Vegetable life.
5. Animal life.
6. Home life.
7. Scene.
8. Bowl.
9. Beehive.
62 Occupations for Little Fingers
The object to be modelled should, if possible, be placed
before the child, but if certain stories are to be worked out,
the teacher may in a measure rely upon his imaginative
genius. Clay will be found a very helpful medium used in
connection with stories of primitive life, and truly deepens the
childish impressions of things in days that are past.
L Bird Life
Materials. — Potters' clay.
A simple story may be told by the teacher or mother,
illustrating the building of the bird's nest, the laying and
hatching of the eggs, and the flight of the young birds. In
one lesson the nest and eggs, with mother and father bird
may be made, and in the second, the eggs removed and the
small birds substituted.
Take a small lump of clay about the size of a large egg.
Make a small indentation toward the centre with the pressure
of the thumb. Gradually work around with the thumb
and hold the clay in the palm of the left hand until a small cup
shape is formed. Roughen the outside of the nest with a piece
of wire or a toothpick. Take three or four small pieces of the
clay and form into egg shapes by rolling them around between
the palms. The teacher will find the real objects of great
assistance, and the children can readily copy them. Small
birds may be made of any size by rolling the small lump of
clay, as for the eggs, and then pinching the sides to form
wings (see Plate VII, No. i).
IL Plant Life
Materials.— Potters' clay. — Oak-leaves and acorns.
Give each child a small lump of clay. Press it into a plinth
or slab three-quarters of an inch in thickness. Lay the
leaf on the clay and press -it into it until the indentations of
Some Stories in Clay 63
veins and shape are made. The leaf may then be removed,
or the outline shape cut with a knitting-needle before dis-
placing it. The small pieces of clay left may be formed into
acorns. Roll a small lump of clay between the palms.
Each child may be given an acorn to copy and the shaping
and roughness of the acorn-cup made with a hairpin or piece
of wood.
Impressions of various leaves and flowers, coins, etc., may
be made in a similar way. If impressions are made of
flowers, they may be colored after the clay is dry. This
makes a very pleasant variation (see Plate VII, No. 2).
IIL Seashore Life
Materials. — Potters' clay. — Shells. — Pictures of fish.
A story of seashore life may be told by the teacher, and the
children each given a shell to copy. A lump of clay about
half the size of an egg may be rolled between the palms.
Place the clay within the shell to get the impression. After
this has been made and the shell used as a cutter for the shape,
make the finish-
ing markings of
the shell with the
wire tool or hair-
pin.
The picture of FlG> 47
a fish may be
placed before the children. Make a plinth three-quarters of
an inch thick and about 2x4 inches. With the wire, mark
an outline of a fish on the clay (see Fig. 47). Use the wire
for cutting out the fish and roughening the fins.
A basket for fish and shells may also be made. Make the
basket of coils of clay. These may be rolled between the
palms and made about the thickness of a peppermint stick.
Coil the roll to form the bottom, and when that is sufficiently
64
Occupations for Little Fingers
large, the sides may be formed by allowing one coil
to overlap another (see Fig. 48). A twisted coil of clay
may be made for the handle and pressed against the sides of
the basket until securely placed
(see Plate VII, No. 3).
IV* Vegetable Life
Materials. — Potters' clay. — Pota-
to, tomato, and carrot.
Have the children bring a vege-
table from home, or the teacher
may supply one for general obser-
vation.
Give each child a lump of clay
and a piece of wood or wire for a tool and allow him to copy
the shape of the vegetable placed before the class. Only one
object at a time should be given. About one-quarter of a
pound is needed for each piece. Such lessons are most in-
teresting around Thanksgiving time, when stories of the
harvest are most appropriate (see Plate VII, No. 4).
FIG. 48.
V* Animal Life
Materials. — Potters' clay. — Pictures of butterfly, cocoon, and
worm, and, if possible, the real objects, as the teacher
tells the story.
The worm is the first thing to be made in the natural order
of sequence. This may be made by rolling a small lump into
an oblong roll. Small pieces of clay may be removed where
the eyes of the worm should appear, and the under surface
roughened with the wire tool. The chrysalis stage is easily
made by the children, but the butterfly is more difficult for
little fingers. To begin it, make a roll of clay about the size
of the worm ; roughen the under part. Take two small lumps
Some Stories in Clay 65
of clay, flatten them and form into the shape of wings,
using the wire tool. It is expected that the results will be
crude. The worm may be colored green, and the butterfly
an appropriate color, after the clay is dry.
This will probably take two or three lessons to work out.
The butterfly may also be made on a plinth. The outline
must first be drawn with the wire tool. Small pieces of clay
may then be added to form the wings in relief, but this work
will be found a little more difficult for young children.
The beehive and bee makes an easy and attractive lesson.
Pictures of a hive are easily obtainable, and the small mounds
readily made. The foundation is a small lump formed into a
round ball between the palms. It may then be flattened on
one side by placing it on the slate and the rest of the moulding
and markings made according to the pictures. Very small
pieces of clay may be made into bees by rolling the clay into
small balls and pinching the sides for wings (see Plate VII,
No. 9).
VL Home Life
Material^. — Potters' clay. — Home objects.
The children may play that they are housekeepers and
have a loaf of bread to make. The teacher or mother may
tell a story of how this is done. The children may make the
bowl, rolling-pin, and finished loaf of bread. These are
easily formed from the real objects, but, of course, made
miniature in size.
A lesson in this connection may be given when the story
of butter-making is told and the simple churn modelled in
the clay (see Plate VII, No. 6).
VIL Pictures in Clay
Many interesting lessons may be given by having the
children draw on the clay with the wire tool. The aim is, of
course, free expression, as in the drawing on paper or black-
66 Occupations for Little Fingers
board. A plinth about three-quarters of an inch thick and
6x4 inches makes a good size. Care should be taken to
have the corners well formed. Any story of interest in con-
nection with the work of the class, or any story the mother
may tell can be drawn upon the clay (see Plate VII, No. 7).
For instance, a story of the sea and a boat may be drawn,
and the water colored blue and the sails white, or the sketch
may be drawn without coloring.
VIIL Other Objects in Clay
There are many objects used in the children's daily life
which may be copied by them. These may be placed before
the class and the children allowed to work them out in an
individual way. As the work becomes more difficult, the
children may be taught to make a bowl by coiling and smooth-
FIG. 49.
ing the coils. This is perhaps not so easy, but it offers a
variation in method of working. The bowl is started with a
coil at the bottom, and as each row is added it is smoothed
downward both inside and out, and the surface finished in
this way (see Fig. 49). A simple design in line may be made
around the top with a wire (see Plate VII, No. 8).
CHAPTER VII
WEAVING
|
THERE is no industrial history quite so interesting as that
of the development of weaving. Few people think of the
evolution of this wonderful art, or of the many processes
through which a garment has actually passed. It is probably
the first art which primitive people practised.
Weaving can be traced to early biblical times. The
Israelites were well versed in it, as well as in spinning
and dyeing. For centuries weaving has been practised in
Egypt, China, and India.
Until within the last one hundred and fifty years, the style
of loom employed was very primitive, and even to-day in
British India and in America among the Indians, very simple
looms are still in use. The Egyptians are generally accredited
with the~1nvention of the loom.
In the most primitive ones there are two beams or sticks.
Between these the warp threads are strung, and the woof
woven under and over with the fingers. A step in advance
of this is the use of a stick as shuttle, upon which the woof is
wound. The evolution of warp and cloth rollers and of batten
and shuttle is most interesting, and in the wonderful Jacquard
loom of to-day, with its grea't facilities for beautiful pattern
weaving, one hardly recognizes the primitive friend of cen-
turies ago.
With the introduction of steam power and modern inven-
tions, many of the hand-looms of colonial times were stored in
the attics. During the past few years, the revival of handi-
crafts has brought them from their hiding-places. Many
67
68 Occupations for Little Fingers
beautiful specimens of hand weaving made on such looms,
may be seen at the arts and crafts shops in the leading cities.
Weaving as a school or home subject may be made most
interesting to children. It offers so many opportunities for
originality in the way of designing, and is easily executed
by the youngest children in the grades. In connection with
the study of primitive life, there is nothing more fascinating
to the child than the weaving of a stockade of splints, a mat
of rushes for the house, or the Indian blanket on a tiny loom,
which he has made. As the study of weaving progresses,
simple looms may be made out of paper boxes, and the
heddle of the Zuni Indian studied. Still another step may be
introduced with the warp and cloth rollers and the material
actually woven and rolled from one to the other. The study
of heddle and treadle weaving makes an interesting problem
for the upper grades or high-school children. Circular
weaving is an interesting variation, and numerous small
articles may be made from the woven circles.
Many materials may be utilized in this work : Germantown
wool, carpet yarn, raffia, silkoline, rags, and candle-wicking
may all serve the purpose. In the early stages of the work,
the paper weaving of the kindergarten may be given, as well
as the weaving of splints.
Macrame cord makes a good foundation for the warp when
Germantown wools or carpet yarns are used as woof.
Weaving develops a dexterity of hand and tends to increase
thought with skill. The child is trained in perseverance and
patience, and there is joy in actually producing the woven
fabric.
Community feeling may be developed by having the children
work for a common object. A number of the small rugs
woven by them may be sewed together, and a large one for
the class-room made. The work may be planned in such a
way that certain children weave the borders and others the
plain part of the rug.
Weaving
69
Weaving offers many opportunities for the introduction of
simple and pleasing designs. These may be worked out in
the drawing period, and utilized when opportunity presents
itself.
L Splint "Weaving:
Materials. — 8 pieces of J-inch flat rattan or splint 8 inches
long. Approximate
A - A
Have the children
point both ends of
each piece of splint,
with the scissors. Lay
four splints side by
side on the table, with
the ends pointing up
and down. Take the
fifth splint in the right
hand and weave over
No. i, under No. 2,
over No. 3, and under
No. 4. ->»Hold them
flat with the palm of the
left hand. Take splint
No. 6 and weave under
No. i, over No. 2, under
No. 3, and over No. 4.
No. 7 is woven like No.
5 and No. 8 like No. 6.
This may be called a
mat, stockade, or fence.
If utilized for portion of
a fence on the sand table,
the two upper splints
may be moved together
70 Occupations for Little Fingers
and the two lower ones, to form a rail (see Fig. 50, a
and b).
This simple work should teach the principle of weaving;
which is over and under every other splint.
II* Paper Weaving
Materials. — i kindergarten mat and strips. — Small piece of
cotton wadding. Approximate cost per child 01
It is hardly necessary to describe the familiar kindergarten
weaving. This may be done in a very coarse way on mats
of bogus paper before the more delicate papers are utilized.
This weaving offers many opportunities for variation of design
and change of color, and many attractive articles can be made
from the mats. After weaving a square mat, it may be folded
in a triangular shape and a sheet of wadding with sachet
placed inside. The edges may then be pasted together.
This is a very simple article for the child to make.
Ill* Woven Hammock
Materials. — Carpet yarn or Germantown wool. — Macrame
cord or twine. — Pasteboard, 6x8 inches. — 2 brass rings.
Approximate cost per child 03
In the card, 6x8 inches, punch two rows of holes about one
quarter of an inch apart. These rows may be placed one inch
from the top and bottom of the card,
and a margin of one inch left on each
side of the rows. Plate No. 8 will
show the arrangement of the rows
of holes. In the middle of the back
FlG 51 ^ of the card sew loosely the two
brass rings which have previously
been tied together (see Fig. 51). The warp threads of the
hammock will be the long cords on the right side of the card-
board. The woof is the thread, which is continuous and is
Weaving 71
put in to form the woven material and selvage. Tie' one
end of the macrame' cord through brass ring No. i . Put the
other end of cord through the first hole of the lower row,
bring it through to the right side, and draw it through hole
No. i on the upper row and down on the wrong side to the
second brass ring. Pass it through the ring and back to the
second hole on the upper row, then through the second hole
on the lower row and through ring No. i again. Sixteen or
seventeen holes make a very good width for the small. ham-
mock, and there should, consequently, be seventeen warp cords.
The woof thread is continuous, and so forms the selvage
by passing around the outside warp threads. The weaving
is simple weaving, over and under one, back and forth.
Bands of another color may be introduced to form stripes
in the hammock. When the weaving has been finished, it
should extend from row to row of holes. The ends of the
finishing, and also the beginning of the woof, may be run in
underneath so as to be hidden.
The cardboard may then be cut away and the hammock
cords bound below the brass rings.
If it is desirable to save the cardboard, the ends of the cords
which passed around the rings may be cut and looped around
the rings afterward and bound. In order to preserve the
cardboard, the rows of holes may be cut at the edge of the
cardboard and the cords passed through the indentations.
It will not be necessary then to cut the cords. The hammock
in Plate VIII, No. 3, has been made in this way. Mats may
also be woven in a similar manner, but it is not necessary to
have the warp long on the wrong side of the card. Pass the
cord from hole No. i on the lower row up on the right side
of the card through hole No. i on the upper row. Pass it
through hole No. 2 on the upper row from the wrong to the
right side, and down again to hole No. 2 on the lower row.
The ends may be cut on the wrong side after the mat is
finished, and a fringe tied with the ends.
72
Occupations for Little Fingers
Simple designs may be introduced, but it is not advisable
until the children have had some experience in weaving and
putting in bands of color. Plaids and stripes may be made
by having some of the warp threads of different colors.
Plate VIII, No= 7, shows some plaids woven in this manner.
This is a very simple loom, and very inexpensive.
IV* Rug Weaving;
Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 6. — -Germantown wool, or
carpet yarn.
Another step in the history of weaving is taken when some
method of raising and lowering the alternate sets of threads
is introduced. The teacher should begin this work with a
development lesson in weaving and a talk about loom con-
struction. The history of the Zuni Indian method of raising
the threads is very interesting to children. Simple looms
may be made of a pasteboard or cigar-box. If the candy-
box is used, make a row of holes in each end of the box and
near to the top; if a
cigar-box serves the
purpose, a row of
nails must be placed
along the edge of each
end of the box (Plate
IX, No. i and No. 2,
shows two such looms). In loom weaving of this descrip-
tion the children must understand the parts thoroughly be-
fore beginning the construction. Warp and woof must be
well understood. The shuttle may be a piece of cardboard
around which the woof is wound before it is passed between
the threads; it may be simply a stick, or the fingers may be
used as a shuttle for passing the woof. The arrangement for
alternating the threads is called a heddle. The Zuni Indian
system was a simple one (see Fig. 52). Thread No. i is passed
0
0
0
o
0
o
o
0
0
0
FIG. 52.
PLATE VIII
73
WEAVING
1. Splints.
2. Paper weaving.
3. Hammock.
4. Mat.
5. Raffia mat.
6. Indian blanket.
7. Plaid weaving.
8. Small rug.
9. Circular weaving.
10. Circular mat.
11. Circular pocket.
12. Bag.
74 Occupations for Little Fingers
through the first slit and can then move up and down. No. 2
is passed through a hole and is held. No. 3 moves, and No. 4
is held, and so on across the warp. When the heddle is raised
all the threads in the holes are drawn up and the other alter-
nate ones are lowered. The shuttle is then passed between
this division. When the heddle is lowered the threads in the
holes go down and those in the slits all up together. The
shuttle is then passed through this other division. This is
a simple device for alternating the threads and is, of course,
labor saving when there are many in the warp.
To string up the box: Make the heddle of a piece of card-
board according to the width of the cloth desired. If sixteen
warp threads are used, there will be eight holes and eight
slits in the heddle. Tie the warp cord to nail No. i on the
lower row. Pass it through slit No. i of the heddle and
around nail No. i on the upper row. Bring the cord back
through hole No. i of the heddle and around nail No. 2
on the lower row. Continue until the loom is strung up.
Wind the woof yarn on a piece of cardboard. Hold the hed-
dle in the left hand, raise it and pass the shuttle between the
threads. Lower the heddle and pass the shuttle in return. On
so small a loom the fingers can be used in place of a shuttle.
The heddle also serves as a batten, which is used to push
the woof threads together and so to make a more closely
woven cloth or rug.
Continue until the rug is woven. This method makes an
interesting problem, and is easily executed when once the
principle is understood. The rug may be removed by cut-
ting the cords at the ends, as in the paper box, or removing
them from around the nail heads in the wooden box. The
ends may be tied into a fringe, or a fringe of wool or yarn made
and put in (see Fig. 29). Plate VIII, No. 8, shows a rug
made on the cigar-box loom.
If it is desired to have a stripe woven in the rug, it may be
introduced by carrying the original color woof along the
Weaving 75
selvage, and working the color of the stripe around it in
passing the woof. When it is necessary to work with the
original color, it may be used, and the color of the stripe
carried along the selvage until it is necessary to introduce
another stripe.
V. Another Loom
Materials. — Two flat sticks, 9 x J inches. — Two flat sticks,
7 x J inches. — One flat stick, 6 x i inches. — One stick,
5 x \ inches. — Germantown wool. — Nails.
Make an oblong frame of the two g-inch sticks and the
two y-inch sticks of half-inch width. These may be cut from
a cigar-box or pine sticks. Nail the frame at the corners.
Hammer ten small nails across the top bar of the frame and
ten across the lower, having them exactly opposite each
other. Place them about one-half inch apart (see Plate IX,
No. 3). Attach the warp yarn to the first nail on the lower
row; wind it around the first nail on the upper row; pass it to
nail No. 2 on the upper row, around it and down to nail No.
2 on the lower row. Continue until the warp is arranged.
The stick 7 inches long by \ of an inch wide is to be used for
the heddle. Cut a slight groove one-half inch from each end
of the sticTL Tie a « '•"••" — - — 1
piece of cord in the ^^ ^
groove at one end. I f
Lay the stick on top X^ ^v
of the warp threads; *•
pass the cord tied to
the stick around the first warp thread, and then around the
stick. Skip the second thread and pass the cord around the
third warp thread. 'Continue until every other warp thread
has been attached to this heddle stick. Make each of these
loops about one inch in length. This is for raising the alternate
threads. The shuttle is made of the stick 5 x \ inches (see
Fig. 53). Wind the wool for the woof around the shuttle.
76 Occupations for Little Fingers
Another stick is necessary for obtaining the other division of
the threads ; this is called a batten, and is to be made of the
stick 6xi inches, and is flat and slightly rounded at the ends.
The batten is used to push the woof threads together and to
batten the rug so that it will be more firm in construction.
Raise the heddle and pass the shuttle between the division
of threads. Pick up the alternate threads with the batten,
and again pass the shuttle across. Continue until the rug
is woven. This is the principle of the Navajo Indian rug
weaving. The real method used by the Indians is very much
more complicated. The warp is made before it is attached
to the loom, and the Indians have a method of introducing
selvage cords, and of attaching the heddle rod, which is quite
intricate and too difficult for children. The Third Annual
Report of the Bu-
reau of Ethnology,
1882, gives a very
definite description
of the method of
work pursued by
the Indians.
In the study of
Indian life the chil-
dren may make a
FlG' 54 ' simple loom, using
the principles of
the above, but changing the construction somewhat.
Take four natural sticks, cross and tie them at the corners
(see Plate IX, No. 4). The cord is wound back and forth
around the upper and lower rods of the frame to form the
warp. Simple weaving may be put in with the fingers, with-
out any heddle, or a simple heddle and batten arrangement
may be made, as in the above description.
In making a pattern care must be taken to overlap the threads
of the background and of the pattern introduced (see Fig. 54).
PLATE IX
77
LOOMS
1. Cigar box.
2. Paper box.
3. Primitive.
4. Navajo.
5. Roller.
6. Woolman.
7. Roller.
78 Occupations for Little Fingers
VL Loom for Continuous Weaving
Materials. — Cigar-box. — 2 wooden rollers. — Nails. — Yarn.
This loom will be found too difficult for very young children
to construct, but it can be made by those of the sixth or
seventh grade. The principle must first be understood and
the children allowed to work out their own ideas. One roller
is used for the warp threads and the other is the roller upon
which the cloth is wound after being woven. The warp
threads are first attached to the cloth roller, then passed
through the heddle, and finally fastened to the warp roller
and wound upon it. The threads may be cut any length
desired for the continuous piece of cloth. The weaving is
done in the same manner as in the preceding looms. As the
cloth is woven it may be wound upon the cloth roller, and the
warp unwound from the warp roller. The plate shows the
small wire handles attached to the rollers for this purpose.
Plate IX, No. 5, shows such a loom made from a cigar-box.
The Zuni heddle is used (see Fig. 52) and a piece of card-
board for shuttle. Plate IX, No. 7, also shows another
method of construction for a simple frame and roller loom.
VII, Manufactured Looms
There are several good looms on the market adapted to
school purposes. These may be secured at the kindergarten
supply places, or directly from the inventors. Plate IX,
No. 6, shows the Woolman loom, with its rollers, shuttle,
heddle, etc. The uprights may be removed from the top
of the box cover, and the whole packed neatly within, without
disturbing the weaving in any way.
Weaving 79
VIE* Circular Weaving
Materials. — Circle of cardboard. — Raffia or rug yarn.
Plate VIII, Nos. 9, 10, and n, shows several examples of
circular weaving which have not been removed from the
cardboards on which they were made.
For a small rug cut a circle of cardboard six inches in
diameter, and one-quarter of an inch from the edge make
a row of holes. It is necessary to have an uneven number.
Place them one-quarter of an inch apart. In the centre
of the cardboard cut a hole one-quarter of an inch in diameter.
Wind the warp threads, beginning at the centre hole. Hold
the warp in position, pass it over the upper side of the card,
through a hole at the edge, around the back of the card and
through the centre. Continue to wind back and forth, pass-
ing through the outer row of holes in regular order and back
again each time through the centre hole.
Begin to weave at the centre on the upper side of the card
and work toward the edge of the circle. Be careful not to
draw the woof too tightly in going over and under the warp.
When the weaving has been completed, cut the threads on
the back, half-way between the edge and the centre of the
cardboard? The ends at the outer edge are tied together to
form a fringe, and those at the centre are fastened by running
them into the weaving on the wrong side of the mat.
Small pockets may be made by weaving on both sides of
the cardboard and using raffia instead of wool. In making
them it is impossible to pass the warp threads of raffia through
the centre hole ; instead, a brass ring is placed in the centre
of each side, and the warp is passed from side to side through
the brass rings at the centre and over the outside edge. It is
not necessary to have a row of holes at the outer edge as in
the circular mat. In winding the warp only two-thirds of
the circle is utilized, and in the weaving the woof is turned
at the outside thread of the segment of circle covered (see
80 Occupations for Little Fingers
Fig- 55)- Both sides of the circle are woven in this way, and
the cardboard broken for removal. A braid of raffia may
be made and attached to the sides for a handle.
Weaving may also be done, in a similar manner, over a
square of cardboard. Plate VIII, No. 12, shows a bag in
process of making. Arrange a
row of pins across the top of
the card, about one-quarter of an
inch apart, allowing half of the
pin to extend on each side of
the card. The warp threads are
wound lengthwise of the card,
each time passing around the
portion of the pin on the opposite
side. There are thus two sets of
warp threads and the bag is woven
round and round the card. When the row of pins is reached,
remove them, and a set of loops will hold the woof at the top
and complete the finish of the bag. Remove the cardboard.
A draw-string of another color may be introduced in the weav-
ing about three-quarters of the way up.
CHAPTER
BEAD WORK
THERE is perhaps nothing that appeals to a child more than
the bright-colored beads which can be obtained in such a
variety of color and size. Primitive people use beads for
decoration on many of their implements of peace and war.
We can turn to our American Indians for inspiration, as to,
color, design, and the articles to be made. Their manner of
working and their methods are simple, and easily carried out
by the child. The simplest form is that worked on chamois
or buckskin, where the beads are strung on thread and sewed
down at intervals.
I* Moccasins
Materials. — Chamois-skin. — Beads, Nos. 2-0, several colors.
—Linen thread, No. 70. — Needles, No. 8. — Thimbles.
Approximate cost 03
These moccasins can be made in any size desired, the
shape being the same in
all sizes (see Fig. 56). If
the children are to make
them to fit themselves,
take a piece of paper about
twelve inches
square, fold it
in half and
crease. Open
it and lay it on
the floor. Have
the child place
the centre of Tongue. FIG. 56.
82
Occupations for Little Fingers
his foot along the line creased, with the heel one and one-half
inches from the edge of the paper. Draw around the foot
with a pencil. Put the paper on the desk, and from the curve
of the instep around the toe allow one inch. From the instep
draw a straight line to the outside of the square, both sides.
From the heel draw a curved line to the edge of the paper
about two inches up from the crease. . Parallel with the top
of the moccasin cut an inch slit where the line from the
toe and the straight line meet. This forms the lap in
front. The tongue is a straight strip with one end rounded
to fit into the toe. To find the length for this, measure from
the toe, one inch from the end of the foot, to the top of the
shoe, and for width, across the top of the foot at the instep.
This should be about two and one-half inches. You will
now have a perfect pattern to work from. Cut out the paper,
lay it on the chamois, and cut two pieces from each part of
the pattern. The bead work is done on the tongue only.
Decide on the pattern, which may cover the whole lower part
of the tongue, or be placed in the centre of the rounded end.
Thread the needle and bring it through to the upper side.
If the pattern is to have a border, put that on first. Put
as many beads as are necessary to make the width on the
needle ; put the needle through to
the wrong side again, on a direct
line from where it came out and
far enough in advance to make the
beads lie flat. Bring the needle
again to the outside, making a
short stitch on the wrong; thread
on the same number of beads and
put the needle in close to where it
FlG< 57> came out on the first row. Con-
tinue working like this all around the toe. At the round end
the lines of beads will be slightly crowded together on the
inside and fanned out on the outside of the curve (see Fig. 57).
Bead Work 83
To fill the centre, start at the upper end of the border and
work across to the other side. From one to one and one-
half inches of beads may be placed on the needle at once and
sewed to the chamois-skin in sections. A small back stitch
is taken on the wrong side in order to make the break in the
line of beads show less. After the bead work is finished,
gather the round end of the largest piece and draw it up
until it fits the round end of the tongue. Measure from
the straight end of the tongue the length of the side of the
moccasin and begin sewing from that point. The tongue
is sewed in on the wrong side, using an overhanding stitch
(see Fig. 31). The back of the moccasin is then sewed in
the same manner. Cut a row of slits around the ankle and
run in strips of chamois for ties. These moccasins can also
be made for dolls or for babies.
II. Bead Belt
Materials. — Chamois-skin ij x 23 inches. — Beads Nos. 2-0,
several colors. — Linen thread, No. 70. — Needle, No. 8. —
Thimble. Approximate cost per child 03
This Indian belt may be made for the children to wear.
Cut a strip of chamois-skin one and one-half inches wide and
long enough to go around the waist. Find the centre and
measure out each way about two inches. This gives the space
to be filled with beads. Make a design that will fit in that
space, and sew the beads on in a manner similar to the moc-
casins. The design may cover the entire width, or, if in the
form of a diamond or other device, it may be placed in the
centre without using a background of beads. This last
method is simpler, and does not require so much time to
accomplish. The ends of the belt may have narrow strips
of chamois, sewed or tied in, to fasten the belt together.
Indian dolls may have their clothing decorated with this
same style of bead work, and it may also be applied to tepees
and bags.
84
Occupations for Little Fingers
III, Egyptian Chains
Materials. — Raffia, 3 strands. — Beads E, 3 strings. — Ap-
proximate cost per child 03
These little chains are very attractive and make good work
for children in the fourth or fifth grade. The original Egyp-
tian chains were strung on fine strands of braided leather,
but raffia makes a very good substitute
Take one strand of raffia, plain or colored, and divide it in
thirds, lengthwise. From the fine end begin stringing on
the beads until they cover about eight inches on each strand.
Care should be taken not to wet the
raffia, as the stiff end will pass through
the beads much more readily. Push ten
beads to within one and one-half inches of
the large end of the raffia, and leaving out
one bead, thread that end through the
remaining nine. Do this to each strand
and fasten them together at the base of
these beads to form a tassel. Begin
braiding, holding the strands out at right
angles. Braid for one-quarter of an inch
and push up a bead on each outside
strand. Hold them in place and con-
tinue braiding, pushing up two beads
every quarter of an inch (see Fig. 58).
When the raffia requires piecing push the large end up
through the beads that remain on the strand to be pieced,
and lapping the ends, continue braiding; these ends are cut
off afterward. When the chain is from one and one-half to
two yards long, finish the end in the same manner as the
start of the chain. These two tassels may be fastened to-
gether afterward.
FIG. 58.
PLATE X
85
1. Moccasin.
2. Belt.
3. Doll.
4. Egyptian chain.
BEADWORK
5. Bead portiere.
6. Bead chains.
7. Round bead chain, 9. Fobs.
3. Flat bead chain. 10. Daisy chain.
86 Occupations for Little Fingers
IV. Bead Curtain
Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 16, 3^ yards. — Large glass
beads. — Tapestry needle, No. 19. Approximate cost
per child 05
Cut the cord into twelve lengths and thread one end of a
piece into the needle and in the other make a knot. String
on one bead and hold in place with an overhand knot. About
one inch from the knot place another knot, and string on
another bead. Continue in this way until within three inches
of the end, then form a loop to slip on to the curtain-pole.
Make each cord in the same way. Patterns may be worked
out by spacing the beads and knots at different intervals. Slip
all the strings on the pole, which may be made of a, dowel-
stick or of large rattan. Tie-backs may be made of a smaller
cord braided with beads, the same as in the Egyptian chain.
V, Bead Chain, No* \
Materials. — Four or five strings of beads, E. — Linen
thread, No. 70. — Needles, No. 8. Approximate cost per
child 03
This is simple work and can be done by young children.
Thread two needles with linen thread, from one
and one-half to two yards in each length. Tie
the ends of the threads together, and begin
stringing the beads on one needle. After you
have fifteen or twenty beads on one thread drop
that needle, and with the other string on three
beads. Put that needle through the fourth
bead on the other string, and again string on
three beads (see Fig. 59). . Continue in this
manner until the chain is long enough.
A variation may be made by stringing six
beads on one string and three on the other,
FIG. 59. and then putting the needle on the last string,
Bead Work 87
through the last three beads on the first
string. Continue working until the chain
is of sufficient length. The threads
change place at each loop, the right-hand
one becoming the left (see Fig. 60). Two
colors may be introduced by using one
color for the side strings and another for
the bar across the chain.
VL Bead Cham, No* 2
Materials. — Corset lace, i. — Four or Five pIG
strings of beads, No. 2-0. — Linen
thread, No. 70. — Needle, No. 8 or No. 9. Approximate
cost per child 04
This chain is very pretty, and is simple work. It differs
from the two described, being round instead of flat. Thread
the needle with the linen thread and fasten it to one end of
the lace and on it string ten beads; put the needle through
the second bead and string on three more; put the needle
through the fourth bead ahead of the last one it passed through.
Continue in this manner until the chain is the desired length.
If two colors are used, have the last three beads of the first
row of contrasting color, and put on three each row around,
beginning one bead ahead each time. This will make the
stripe twist. To finish the chain, bring the two ends of the
lace together and sew firmly, then work the beads over this
end. A tassel of beads may be used for a finish, or the chains
may be mounted by a jeweller.
VIL Bead Chain, No* 3
Materials. — Six strings of beads, No. 2-0. — Linen thread, No.
70 and No. 100. — Milliner's needle, No. 10. — Thimble. —
Slate 'frame or loom. Approximate cost per child. . .05
Almost everyone has seen or made one of the woven bead
88
Occupations for Little Fingers
chains that have been worn so much lately. An endless
variety of these chains may be made, but the underlying
principles are the same in all. Cut an even number of
strings of No. 70 linen thread, from one and one-half to two
yards long — six or eight strings for a narrow chain, and from
eighteen to twenty-two for a fob. Fasten these strings
together and if a loom is used slip one into each notch or be-
tween the nails; if a slate or caning frame, fasten them se-
curely to one side and carry them directly across to the
opposite side and tie them there. Fasten the end of No.
100 thread, which has been threaded in the needle, with the
others, which we will call the warp threads. Place the beads
for the first row on the needle (one less bead than the number
of warp threads), and hold the needle under
the warp threads, a bead between each. Hold
the beads in position with the first finger of
the left hand and draw the needle through
them; put it back through the beads in the
opposite direction and on top of the warp
threads. It is better to work from right to
left first, and then from left to right. It is
always best to have an uneven number of
beads so as to give a centre for the pattern.
An attractive method of starting a fob is
with a piece of chamois-skin about six
inches long and one inch at one end, slant-
ing to one-quarter of an inch at the other
(see Fig. 61). The warp threads for the fob
are cut about four inches longer than twice
the desired length of the finished fob, and are sewed into
the chamois-skin at the wide end. A turn of about one-
eighth of an inch is made at that end and each thread is
brought up through this and taken back again, leaving the
space for a bead between. To finish the fob, thread each
warp thread in the needle and string on beads for fringe,
FIG. 61.
Bead Work 89
leave out the end bead and bring the needle back through
the others, and up into the weaving to fasten.
Cross-stitch patterns may be used for these chains, or
the children may design them themselves.
VIIL Daisy Chains
Materials. — Chalk-white beads, No. 2-0, 3 or 4 strings. — Blue
beads, No. 2-0, 3 or 4 strings. — Yellow beads, No. 2-0, 2
or 3 strings. — Linen thread, No. 70. — Long eye needle,
No. 9 or No. 10. Approximate cost per child 06
In this very artistic chain the principle is different from
the preceding ones, as all the work is done with one thread.
If the following directions are carefully noted very little
trouble will be found. When piecing the thread it is best
to do so where the needle goes through the entire daisy.
The new thread should be joined to the old with a weaver's
knot (see Plate I, No. 9), and as close to the beads as possible.
Thread the needle and wax the thread, but do not have
it too long. Put on three white beads and one yellow, then
put the needle through the first white
bead; put on four white beads, then pass
the needle through all the beads of the
daisy. Take up two blue, then one white
and put trie' needle through the blue next
to the white bead. Take up one blue bead
and put the needle through the white bead
of the daisy XX. Turn the chain and put
on one blue, pass the needle through the
blue, and put on one white, pass the needle j,
through the white. Turn the chain and
put on two white and one yellow, pass the needle through* the
white. Put on one blue, and pass the needle through the blue.
Turn the chain and put on one blue, pass the needle through
the blue, and put on one white, pass the needle through the
90 Occupations for Little Fingers
yellow. Turn the chain and put on three white and pass
the needle through all the beads of the daisy (see Fig. 62).
Then put on one blue, pass the needle through the blue, and
turn the chain over to begin a new daisy. Put on one white,
and pass the needle through the blue to start a new daisy. Put
on one blue, and pass the needle through one white of the old
daisy. Repeat from XX.
It is well in putting away the chain to stop work at the be-
ginning of a new daisy, as it is easier to pick out the direc-
tions from that point.
CHAPTER IX
HOW TO FURNISH A DOLL'S HOUSE
Is there anything that appeals to the heart of a child more
than a doll's house? If the furniture, rugs, curtains, pictures,
and other decoration, as well as the house, can be made by
the children, the pleasure they will derive will be even greater
than in one furnished by someone else. All children love
to play at doing the same as their elders, whether it is mother
and house-keeping, or father at the store, on the farm, or at
the office. In furnishing the house many things may be
taught. Economy, hygienic furnishing, and decoration play
a part in the scheme, that can be used to teach the children
the useful lessons that will mean much to them in after life.
L The House
Materials. — i large box or 2 small ones. — A few wire nails. —
Moulding. — Hammer and saw.
Obtain a wooden box, about 36 x 18 inches, from a grocery
or a dry-goods store, or, if a large one is not to be had, two
small ones of even size. Get one of the older boys to fit a
partition which will divide the house into two rooms. Cut a
doorway in this partition, for we must have communication
between the rooms. Cut one or two windows in each room,
and, if the boys are very ambitious, let them fit them with
glass; this will make the house more realistic. Purchase
enough narrow moulding to go around the top of the house;
this makes a very nice finish and does not add very much to
the expense. Your house is now ready to paint or stain on
the outside and to be papered on the inside. In choosing
91
92 Occupations for Little Fingers
your box pick out one that is smoothly finished, as this will
save trouble later. The stain or paint for the outside may
be obtained at any paint store for about fifteen cents, and the
children, especially the boys, will enjoy painting it. A soft
green or brown will be found the best for this purpose.
After the house is finished on the outside choose a neutral
color for the wall decoration. An ingrain paper will do
nicely, and the children can design and stencil a border for
the top. When the floors are stained the house will be fin-
ished and ready to be furnished. For the rugs, see the chapter
on Weaving; for curtains, see the description of lace curtains
and Bagdad portiere, also lined portiere, in the chapter on
Upholstery. In the chapter on Coarse Sewing the cushions
and table-covers have been described. In the chapter on
Paper Folding a description of a paper screen is given; this
will be found an attractive addition to the doll's house.
This leaves the furniture and wall decoration to be considered
in this chapter.
IL Doll's Bed
Materials. — Pasteboard box. — Colored cambric. — Dotted
Swiss muslin. — Unbleached muslin. — Long cloth. —
White flannel. — Cotton batting. — Colored wool and
San silk. — Needles, No. 8. — Crewel needles, No. 3.
— Thimbles.
The foregoing list seems rather formidable, but so
little of each thing is needed that the expense is very
small. Choose a box that will be in good proportion
to the room. This is to be covered .by pasting the
colored cambric on the
sides and cover. Stand
the cover up at one end
of the box and sew it
firmly (see Fig. 63).
FIG. 63. This forms the bed-
PLATE XI
93
FURNITURE FOR DOLL'S HOUSE
1. Couch-cover.
2. Small rug.
3. Bed.
4. Toilet-table.
5. Couch.
6. Arm-chair.
7. Table.
8. Table.
9- Willow arm-chair.
10. Chair.
n. Passe-partout picture.
94 , Occupations for Little Fingers
stead. Make a ruffle of the dotted muslin, the hem of which
may be run with the mercerized cotton to form a decoration,
and sew it around the box at the top. Cut a piece of muslin
about four inches wide, and long enough to go over the cover
and drop to the bottom of the box. This is to be hemmed all
around, using the same width hem and decoration as on the
ruffle. This piece will form the curtains, and is to be fastened
in plaits at the top of the cover and drawn down and fastened
at the sides where box and cover join. The bed is now ready
for the mattress, pillow, and bedding. Measure the box and
cut two pieces of unbleached muslin the exact size. Seam
these together, leaving an opening at one side, turn, and fill
with cotton; sew up the opening. Make the pillow in the
same manner. The sheets are to be made of the long cloth,
or any other soft-finished cotton. Cut them about two inches
larger than the box, to allow for hems and tucking in at the
sides. Put narrow hems on each side and one end, and a
one-half inch hem at the other. The blankets are made of
soft white flannel cut the same size as the finished sheet and
worked around the edge with an even or uneven blanket-
stitch (see Fig. 23), using the colored wool or Poseidon. The
pillow-case is cut twice the width of the pillow, with the
seams allowed, and about one and one-half inches longer.
Turn a seam on each side of the muslin and overhand it
together, explaining to the child that pillow-cases are usually
made of material just the right width, and therefore the sel-
vages are overhanded together. Make a narrow seam at
the top, using two runs and a back stitch, and overcast it;
a half-inch hem is put in the other end. A little white spread
may be made by using a piece of an old towel, and either
hemming it or tying in a fringe as described under Table-
Cover (Chapter IV). The doll's initials might be worked
in with cross-stitch, using red or blue marking cotton.
This little bed makes very good cooperative work, as sev-
eral children can be working on it at the same time.
How to Furnish a DolFs House ..
95
IIL Toilet-Table
Materials. — Pasteboard box, 4x5 inches. — Colored cambric.
—Dotted Swiss muslin. — Colored San silk. — White cot-
ton, No. 80. — Needle, No. 8, and crewel needle, No. 4.
Approximate cost per child 02
Take the cover from the box and cover the outside of it
with the colored cambric, pasting it on and allowing it to
run over the edge to the inside of the cover. Fasten the cover
to the box, which has been turned on end (see Fig. 64).
Cover the top of the table with a piece of dotted Swiss, sewing
it to the lower edge of the cover. Make a ruffle deep enough
to fall from the upper edge to the floor, and finish it with a
hem, decorated to
match the valance on
the bed. The muslin
ruffle should have about
once and a half of ful-
ness. A straight piece
of the colored cambric,
large enough to go
across the front and
ends of the top, and
the depth of the ruffle,
is then cut; this can be
hemmed at the bottom
or cut in small points. Gather the ruffle with a narrow
heading at the top, turn in the cambric, and fasten them to-
gether. This is then sewed to the upper edge of the cover,
and the table is finished. A little pin-cushion of cambric
covered with muslin, and having a ruffle of lace around it,
may be added to the top. The size of the box may vary
with the size of the house. Always try to keep the right
proportions between the house and its furnishings.
FIG. 64.
96 Occupations for Little Fingers
IV* Box Couch, for Dolls' Dresses
Materials. — Pasteboard box, 3x7 inches. — Cretonne or
silkoline. — Colored cambric. — White cotton, No. 80.—
Needles, No. 8. — Cotton batting. — Thimbles. Approxi-
mate cost 04
Choose rather a heavy box and take the sides and ends
off the cover. Lay several thicknesses of the batting on top
and cover it with the cretonne, both sides. For this cut the
piece a little more than twice the width and enough longer
to turn in at the ends. Turn the material from the top
over to the under side of the cover. Turn in the other edges
and overhand together at the ends and one side, the other
side having no seam. Line the inside of the box with cam-
bric, pasting it in place. Let this run over the upper edge
to the outside, and it will give something to which the valance
may be fastened. Cut a piece of cretonne the depth of the
box, allowing a one-half inch hem and three times the meas-
ure of the entire top of the box. After this is hemmed, plait
it in small box-plaits and fasten it to the top of the box.
The lid which was covered first is now tacked on at the back
of the box', so that it will open; this can be done by making
several button-holed loops. Make some small sofa-cushions
of the cretonne to place on the couch.
V* Arm-Chair
Materials. — Cardboard. — Cretonne. — Cotton batting. -
White thread, No. 80.— Needles, No. 8.— Thimbles.
Cut two pieces of cardboard (see Fig. 65 a and b) and two
pieces of heavy paper to match. Cut four pieces of cretonne
the same shape as the cardboard and one-quarter of an inch
larger all around. Lay several thicknesses of cotton over
the cardboard, and lay one set of the cretonne pieces on these
and fasten them by using long stitches at the back (see Pin
How to Furnish a Doll's House 97
Ball, Chapter IV). Fasten the other pieces of cretonne to the
paper in like manner. The back and seat of the chair having
the cotton padding may be tufted before putting the pieces
together. Lay the two sets with the wrong sides together
and with an overhand stitch sew around both pieces. Cut
a little strip of the cretonne three inches deep and nine
a.,
FIG. 65.
inches long, hem it at the bottom and sides, box-plait it,
and sew it to the front of the piece for the seat. Tack the
back of the seat to the middle back of the chair with a few
strong stitchesr* Bring the arms around, and fasten them
to the front of the seat. The shape of this chair may be varied
by changing the dimensions of the diagram.
VL Wicker Table
Materials. — No. 3 rattan, 6 pieces, 22 inches. — No. 3 rattan,
i piece, 12 inches. — No. 2 rattan, i weaver. — A few
strands of raffia. Approximate cost 03
Any child who has woven a mat with rattan can make a
table for the house, as the principle is the same. Cross the
98 Occupations for Little Fingers
six pieces of No. 3 rattan in the centre, three and three, and
lay the twelve-inch piece between one set. Take the weaver
of No. 2, which has been well soaked to make it pliable, and
hold it beneath the under set of spokes and then bring it
over the upper set. Pass it under the next set and over the
next, keeping it as close to the crossing as possible. Do this
twice around, and then begin to separate the spokes and work
them singly (see Fig. 66). If this is done carefully the weav-
ing will come out in the correct way, i.e., the weaver will pass
over the spoke it went under before, and under the spoke it
went over before. Continue in this manner until the mat is
about three and one-half inches in
diameter. Make a border in the
following manner: Bring spoke No.
i over the next spoke to the right
and push it through the weaving on
the under side of the mat for about
three or four rows. Do the same
thing with spoke No. 2, and con-
tinue it around the entire mat. The
last spoke will go through the loop
FIG. 66. formed by the first one. When all
the spokes are through to the wrong
side, pull them taut; this will tighten the border and make
it more firm. These spokes are to form the legs of the table.
Decide whether you are to have three or four legs and group
the spokes accordingly. The extra one can be cut away or
bound in with one of the groups. Even the legs before you
begin to finish them. . Take a weaver of rattan, begin at the
top close to the mat and wind over the entire length of the
group, leaving a small space between each winding. At the
lower end take a half hitch (see Fig. 5) and wind back to
the top; filling in the spaces, fasten it off by running the
rattan into the weaving. Do this to each leg or group. If
the table .has four legs, a smaller mat may be made, and
How to Furnish a DoWs House 99
fastened in, lower down, to form a shelf. If it has three legs,
it is well to bind them together, part of the way down, as that
will make the table more firm.
Stools, and stands for flowers, may be made in the same
manner, by cutting the spokes a few inches shorter, and
making the mat smaller in diameter. It is well in these to
bind a ring of rattan inside of the legs about half-way down;
this will help to strengthen them. Chairs may also be made
by cutting one of the spokes about seven inches longer than
the others and, instead of binding it in with the rest to form
the legs, bring the two long ends to the right side of the mat
and use them for the back of the chair. Insert three extra
spokes of No. 3 rattan between these, and with a weaver
No. 2, weave back and forth, until within one and one-half
inches of the top of the side spokes. Push the end of the
weaver down beside a spoke to hold it, bend the two outside
spokes over so that they cross at the centre, and push the ends
down at the outside. The three centre spokes are to be cut
off even with the weaving.
Braided raffia makes a pretty weaver and is a little easier
for children to use; a fine three-strand braid is the best for
this purpose.
VIL Arm-Chair
Materials. — No. 5 rattan, i piece, 8 inches. — No. 5 rattan,
2 pieces, 5 inches. — No. i rattan, 6 pieces, 9 inches.— No.
i rattan, 28 pieces, graduated, 2 of each from 10 to 18
inches. — No. i rattan, 3 weavers. Approximate cost. .05
This little chair is more difficult to make than the pre-
ceding one, and therefore will be better work for older chil-
dren, especially boys.
Bend the eight-inch piece of No. 5 rattan to form a bow,
and tie the ends together with a piece of raffia (see Fig. 67 a).
Tie the six nine-inch pieces to the curve or back of the bow
in the following manner : Bring one end over the piece of No.
100
Occupations for Little Fingers
5 rattan, then around it and over itself; hold the short end
in place and fasten on the next one, which will go over the
first end and hold it in position (see Fig. 67 6). Continue
until you have tied on five in this manner. In tying on the
sixth one the short end is brought over in the opposite way
and the end worked into the knots formed by the others.
Take a weaver of No. i rattan, double it about ten inches
from one end, put the loop thus formed around one outside
spoke, and work across once with paired weaving (see Fig.
14). After this, use plain weaving until the seat is finished,
i.e., until the ends of the No. 5 rattan are reached. Bend
down the ends of the long spokes, and put in the twenty-eight
FIG. 67.
pieces of No. i rattan. These are to graduate from ten
inches to eighteen inches, and are to form the back and arms
of the chair; they must be put in with that idea in view.
Begin with the shortest, and gradually increase the height
until the middle of the back is reached, and then decrease
toward the front. These extra spokes are pushed down
between the weaving close to the piece which forms the edge
of the seat, and are spaced alternately first one weaver apart,
then two weavers. They are pulled through even with the
spokes which form the front of the chair. Insert the two
five-inch pieces of No. 5 rattan at each side of the front.
Take a weaver of No. i rattan, double it in the centre and
slip it over one of these spokes. Put four rows of paired
How to Furnish a DoWs tiotise ' 101
FIG. 68.
weaving, enclosing two spokes at a time, except across the
front where the spokes are worked separately; fasten off the
weavers by working them into the weaving. Insert an extra
spoke at the side of each of the front ones, pushing it well up
into the weaving. One-half inch below the last row put in
two more rows of
pairing. Cross the
spokes (see Fig. 68)
and weave two
more rows to form
the base of the
chair. Finish the // )||( f fl/ \ff
base with the fol-
lowing border:
Take two spokes together and put them over the next group
to the right and then inside of the base; do this all around,
bringing the last set through the loop formed by the first set.
After the chair is dry, cut these spokes off to within one-half
inch of the border. For the arms and back, cross the
spokes in the same way as for the base; double a weaver of
No. i rattan, slip it over
one of the uprights at the
front of the chair, and put
two rows of pairing about
one inch from the seat.
When the opposite up-
right is reached turn the
weavers, and weave back,
gradually separating
them from the first row
to form the high back (see Fig. 69). Before coming back
with the third row cross the spokes again and separate the
rows as before, the fourth row is pressed down close to the
third. The same set of weavers is used all through the
upper part of the chair, as they turn and come back each time.
FIG. 69.
102 L ' Occupations for Little Fingers
The top is to be finished with the following border : Take
each group and put it back of the next group to the right and
out; do this all around the top. At the end bring the last
pair all the way around, and place it under the next group
to the right and up. Continue similarly across the border.
When the rattan is dry cut the ends to within one-half inch
of the weaving.
VIIL The Pictures
Materials. — Perry pictures. — Glass. — Cardboard. — Black
or white paper for binding.
The Perry pictures, which sell for half a cent, apiece, make
very attractive decoration on the walls of the doll's house.
They can be framed in the following manner:
Have a piece of glass cut the exact size of the picture, and
cut a piece of cardboard the same size. The strips to bind
the edges should be about one-half inch wide. The passe-
partout binding that comes prepared for mounting is about
one inch wide ; this can be cut in half,
and is easier to use than that which is
cut from a sheet of paper. Cut two
strips the exact length of the longest
way of the picture. Have the glass,
picture, and cardboard fitted care-
fully together and lay them glass
upward on the table or desk. Put
the paste on one strip and lay it on
the glass, one-eighth of an inch on the
edge of the glass and the rest of the
paper extending over the edge. Press
it down carefully, then raise the glass,
picture, and cardboard, and put the
paper down on the wrong side, pressing it over the edge
as snugly as possible. Take a cloth and rub it quickly
but lightly, the whole length, for several times. This gives
FIG. 70.
How to Furnish a Doll's House 103
a good finish to the edge. Do the opposite side of the
picture in the same manner. This will hold the materials
together firmly. Next cut two pieces which will exactly fit
the short sides. Before putting on the paste lay them on the
glass so that they match the binding on the other sides, and
mark the corners to form mitres. Cut off this small point,
and one a little larger from the other side of the strip (see Fig.
70). Paste these strips on in the same manner as the first
two. The corners are the most particular part of the work,
but if care is taken in cutting the strips to have them the
exact length of the glass, very little trouble will be found. Al-
ways paste the strips of paper on the two long sides first.
CHAPTER X
SIMPLE UPHOLSTERY FOR HOME USE
WORKERS in settlement schools have for some years been
teaching the children to become home-makers. Simple work
in upholstery, when presented in an interesting way, offers
unusual facilities in this direction, and certainly develops an
amount of interest in home things which cannot fail to make
the child more helpful and useful later on in life. The work
may be learned in a very simple way, in relation to furnish-
ings for a doll's house. Simplicity in furnishings, cleanliness
in relation to choice and arrangement of materials, adapta-
tion of things to use, planning with relation to economy of
time and energy in their cleaning, may be incidentally taught
in connection with the upholstery work.
L Lace Curtains
Materials. — Cream- white Brussels net. — Unbleached mer-
cerized cotton. — Piece of rattan for pole. Approximate
cost per child 06
Measure the windows of the house for the length and width
of the curtains. Turn a half-inch hem along the length on
one side, and a quarter-inch on the other. Use the mercerized
cotton double, and catch the hems down with the running or a
fancy stitch. Turn a one-inch hem at the bottom, and finish
in like manner. The top may be finished with a frill, in which
case turn over one inch, turn in one- quarter of an inch, and
fasten with a running-stitch done with No. 60 cotton. Put an-
104
PLATE XII
105
1. Lace curtains.
2. Bagdad.
UPHOLSTERY
3. Lined portiere.
4. Chair-cover.
5. Mattress.
3. Seat-cushion.
106 Occupations for Little Fingers
other row of stitches one- quarter of an inch from the last, to
form a casing for the pole. Run the curtains on the pole, and
make the tie-backs of cord and tassels. If no frill is desired,
a casing that will admit the pole easily is made at the top.
Care must be taken to have the curtains made in pairs; the
cost will depend on the size.
II. Bagdad Curtain
Materials. — Java canvas, i\ x 14 inches, 5 or 7 colors. — 2
skeins Poseidon cotton. — Chenille needles, No. 2. —
Thimbles. Approximate cost per child 1 1
This article makes excellent cooperative work, as five or
seven children can work in a group, each making a stripe for
the curtain, which can be sewed together with an overhanding
stitch by the teacher.
Turn over the long edges of each strip one-quarter of an
inch, baste, and fasten it down with an overcasting stitch
(Fig. 32) done in Poseidon cotton. Work the length of the
strip, then turn and come back, crossing the stitches; this
forms a border on each side. The decorations through the
centre should be left as far as possible to the children, as they
will surely make some primitive designs. These designs may
be worked with simple stitches: running,. -back-stitching, and
the cross-stitch adapt themselves nicely to this style of
decoration.
Care should be taken in choosing the colors of the Java
canvas to be placed together, and also in the arrange-
ment of colors for decoration; a little black may be used
effectively.
In joining the stripes together to form the curtain, arrange
them so that the colors harmonize.
When finished, this may be used as a couch-cover or a door-
curtain in the doll's house.
Simple Upholstery for Home Use 107
III, Lined Portiere
Materials. — Burlap or denim, 15 x 20 inches.— Single-faced
Canton flannel, 13 x 18 inches. — Sateen, 15 x 20 inches.—
Heavy mercerized cotton. — Black San silk. — 6 small
brass rings. — No. 60 white cotton. — No. 8 needles. — No.
6 crewel needles. Approximate cost per child 10
The measures given above make a curtain of good propor-
tions ; but if it is to be used in a certain place, let the children
take their own measurements.
The decoration can be of denim applied and couched on
(see Bag, Chapter III), or the design may be simply couched on
the material, using the heavy. mercerized cotton and San silk.
In making the design for the curtain there are several things to
FIG. 71.
— t
be considered, such as appropriateness, space,- size, and use;
combination of color is very important, and harmony with the
surroundings.
After the decoration has been placed on the curtain, put
it face down on the desk or table, and lay the piece of Canton
flannel on top, leaving a one-inch margin all around. Turn
over the edge of the outside material, pin and sew down to the
interlining with a coarse slanting stitch. The corners should
be mitred (Fig. 71). Lay the sateen over the interlining, turn
in the edges, leaving a half-inch margin; pin, baste, and
108 Occupations for Little Fingers
hem down. Finish at the top by laying six plaits, and sew on
the brass rings so that the top of the ring touches the top of
the curtain. Rods to hang them on can be made of dowel-
sticks cut the length of the door-casing and stained to match
the wood of the house. Use brass screw-eyes for brackets ; a
brass-headed nail will make a nice finish for the ends of the
rods.
IV* Slip-covers
Materials. — 9 inches of narrow striped furniture-linen. — i
piece of one-half inch tape. — No. 80 cotton. — No. 8
needles. — Thimbles. Approximate cost per child .. .10
Covers for small chairs may be made in the same manner
as large-sized ones. Measure the depth and width of the chair-
seat at the front and back, and cut a piece of paper a little
larger. Measure the back, and if the chair has arms measure
those also, and cut a pattern from paper. There must be two
pieces for the back and each arm — one the exact size and
width for the inside, and the other enough longer to fall below
the seat nearly to the floor, for the outside. The same amount
must be added to the front of the seat, and can either be cut
on or joined with a seam. This will give the approximate
size and shape of the cover. To get an exact fit for the
chair, cut out the pieces of linen, using the pattern (care
should be exercised here to have children cut economically).
Baste the short back- and arm-pieces to the back and sides
of the seat, and the front piece, if that has been cut separately.
Put on the chair, and pin the long pieces for the back and arms
to the other pieces, and fit around any irregularities in the
chair. Cut the back up through the centre, and if there is
width enough lap it a little at the top. Finish the cover all
around with a binding of narrow tape, and sew three sets of
tapes on the opening at the back, in order to tie it together.
Where the pieces are joined to the seat, the seams are on the
wrong side of the material and should be back-stitched; all
Simple Upholstery for Home Use 109
the other seams are on the right side and are covered by the
tape. If this article is made by older children the tape may
be sewed on the machine; this makes an excellent lesson in
stitching.
V. Mattress for Doll's Bed
Materials. — Art-ticking or cretonne. — i piece of J-inch tape. —
Fine cord for tufting. — Heavy cable-cord for tufts. — Cot-
ton or hair. — Long, slim needle. — Thimbles. Approx-
imate cost per child 12
Take the measure of the bedstead, and cut two pieces of
cretonne the exact size. Cut a strip one inch wide and twice
the length of the first piece, plus twice the width. This forms
what is called the box of the mattress, and is to be basted
around one of the first pieces cut, with the seam on the right
side. Join the strip on one corner with the seam on the in-
side. Baste on the second piece, leaving an opening of about
three inches, where the stuffing is to be put in. Bind the
seams with tape; stitch it on the machine or run it on by hand.
The mattress may be filled with hair, cotton, or excelsior;
it should be stuffed as full as possible, and as evenly, espe-
cially at the corners. Join the opening and bind it. Before
the tufts are put in, divide the mattress and space the marks
for the tufts evenly; these may be put in in diamonds or
squares. Cut the cable-cord into inch lengths; it will take
about two pieces for each tuft. Thread a long piece of string
into the needle, and put it through at the first mark for a tuft;
bring it back again to the place where it went in, but leave a
short stitch on the opposite side to keep the string from pulling
through. Tie the ends once, pull as snug as possible, lay in a
tuft, and tie with the square knot (see Chapter II). Continue
until all the tufts have been laid in; for a mattress 9 x 7 in-
ches, twenty tufts will be enough.
The sides are held in place in the following manner: Thread
a needle with a long string, and start it at the corner tuft.
110 Occupations for Little Fingers
Put the needle in on the slant, bringing it out in the box (or
side) half-way to the next tuft ; put it in again, leaving a short
stitch, and come out at the next tuft. This is done all around
the mattress. A double row of these stitches may be put in,
one row on each side; this is not necessary, however, where
they are small. Upholsterers use a double-pointed needle,
but these would be rather difficult for children to handle.
These mattresses make excellent work for older boys.
VL Cushion for Chair or Seat
Materials. — Unbleached muslin. — Denim. — Excelsior or
cotton batting. — Buttons for tufting. — Long, slim needle.
— No. 50 white cotton. — Silk to match denim. Approx-
imate cost per child 05
This little cushion may be used for several purposes, such as
window-seats, chair-cushions, and cosey-corners. The meas-
ures are taken the same as for the mattress, and the pad made
in like manner, using unbleached muslin in place of ticking,
and sewing the seams on the inside instead of the outside.
Use excelsior or cotton for filling, and tuft, using linen thread
in place of string. Tie the ends together without using the
tuft of cable-cord, as this is done simply to indicate the position
of the buttons, which are put on after the outer covering is in
place. Do not put the tufts as close together as in the mat-
tress. After the pad is finished, take the measures for the
outside. These consist of twice the width, the length, and
twice the height of the box. Allow one inch on all measures
for the tuck which is to be taken all around the edge of the
cushion. Twice the height of the box must also be added to
the length. Begin at the short side, and take up a one-quarter
inch fold, baste, leaving a piece for the box, and tuck at each
end (Fig. 72). From the basting, measure out the width of
the cushion, allow one-quarter of an inch tuck and baste;
then measure out the width of the box, again allow a tuck and
Simple Upholstery for Home Use 111
baste; then the width of the cushion, and again allow a tuck
and baste. This gives the covering for the two sides, and the
boxes at the side. To fit the cushion to the pad exactly,
measure on the long side the height of the box, allow a tuck
and baste only between the tucks formed by the top of
the cushion. From , _ ______
that basting measure
the length of the cush-
ion; allow a tuck at
the other end and
baste. These tucks
should be stitched or
run after they are
basted ; the corners
should be cut out, and
the edges turned in
and stitched together.
Where the two end-
pieces meet they can
be slip-stitched. Also use the same finish at the side. The
buttons are put in at the last. Thread a long, slim needle
with a fine string or linen thread, put it through the cushion
from the under side where the tufts have been made; put
the needle through the cloth shank of the button and down
through the pad again, and tie the ends with a square or hard
knot (see Hard Knot, Chapter II).
FIG. 72.
VIL Cover for Pillows
Materials. — Holland linen. — Tape or buttons. — White cotton,
No. 80.— Needles, No. 8.— Thimble.
These covers may be made in any size desired. They are
to cover sofa-pillows, in order to keep them clean in summer,
or when the room is being swept. Take a piece of linen the
width of the pillow and twice its length ; allow one-half inch
112 Occupations for Little Fingers
on the width for seams, and about five inches on the length
for hems and lap (these measures are given for full-size pil-
lows). Fold an inch hem at both ends of the strip, and stitch
or hem by hand. Lay the strip together wrong side out, let-
ting one end extend three inches beyond the other, and sew
together with one-quarter inch seams. Put a narrow hem cor-
responding to the width of the seam on the three-inch lap for
a finish. Turn the case right side out and sew on three sets
of tapes to tie, or make three or four button-holes in the lap
and place buttons on the case.
CHAPTER XI
CROCHETING AND KNITTING
WHEN our grandmothers were young all little girls were
taught to knit and crochet, for all the family stockings and mit-
tens had to be made at home. It was not possible to go to the
stores and buy them, as one can at present. Little children
in foreign countries are still taught to knit, and it is quite a
common sight in Holland to see them playing in the streets
with their knitting in their hands.
In the following chapter it is impossible to mention all the
many articles that can be made with simple knitting and cro-
cheting, so only a few suggestions are given, which will prove
interesting to the children. Any directions for large-sized
articles may be used for dolls by making them just half size.
L Doll's Tam-o'-Shanter
Materials. — Columbia yarn, i hank. — Bone crochet-hook,
No. 4. — Approximate cost per child 02
If the children have made the chain-stitch in the cord-work,
it will be very easy to show them the connection between it and
crocheting. The stitch is the same, but a needle or hook is
used in drawing the loop through, in place of the fingers. , Set
up a chain of five stitches and join in a circle by drawing the
last loop through the first one made. Then begin widening
by putting two stitches in every stitch for two rows around.
On the third row widen every other stitch. After that widen
only occasionally in order to keep it flat and round. It may
be worked in points by increasing the number of plain stitches
113
114 Occupations for Little Fingers
between the widenings, by one extra stitch each row. The
needle may be put through one side of the stitch only or both,
the latter will make it a little firmer. When the Tarn is large
enough, make two rows of plain crocheting without widening,
then begin to narrow. This is done by placing the needle
through two loops instead of one, and pulling the new loop
through both at once. Narrow every third stitch until the
head size is the right proportion for the top, then crochet three
or four rows plain. Finish by
pulling the finishing end through
the last loop, and working it into
the crocheting. A little ball may
be made for trie top in the follow-
ing manner: Cut two circles of
cardboard about one inch in
diameter. Make a hole in the
centre with the scissors and sew the wool from the centre
around the outside of the cardboard (see Fig. 73). Fill as
full as possible, then cut the wool around the outside edge,
separate the cardboards, and tie a piece of wool around the
centre. Tear out the cardboard and trim the ball into shape.
Sew it to the top of the Tarn with the end of wool which was
used to tie it at the centre. These Tarns may- be made to fit
the children by following the same directions and working
them out to the proper size.
IL Doll's Slipper
Materials. — Columbia yarn, \ hank. — Lining to match wool.
— Eider-down flannel, white. — Cardboard. — Needle,
No. 8. — White cotton, No. 70. — Thimble. Approximate
cost per child 06
These little slippers will teach a slightly different method
of work from the Tarn just described, as the work is done from
side to side instead of around in a circle.
PLATE XIII
115
CROCHETING AND KNITTING
1. Tam-o'-Shanter.
2. Slippers.
3. Under vest.
4. Baby sack.
5. Scissors protector.
6. Washcloth.
7. Doll's hood. 9. Afghan.
8. Wristlets. 10. Sweater.
116
Occupations for Little Fingers
FIG. 74.
Set up a chain of six stitches, leave out the last stitch made,
and crochet into the next two, then widen in the next and then
make two more plain stitches. Take an extra stitch at the
end of each row.
Turn the work
and crochet back,
widening in the
centre stitch each
time. In order to
form the rib, take
up the side of the
stitch away from
you each row.
Make five ribs or
ten rows of cro-
cheting; this forms
the vamp of the
slipper. On the eleventh row, crochet only eight stitches,
and rib back and forth for thirteen ribs, or until the slipper is
the size desired. Join this finished end to the opposite side of
the vamp. With a double crochet, i.e., throw-
ing the thread around the needle once, pulling
it through one loop, and then through two (see
Fig. 74), work around the upper edge of the
slipper, catching it into each rib; put a single
stitch between each double one. This forms
the beading for a ribbon or cord and tassel.
For the border put four double crochet
stitches in each space and catch them down
with a single stitch.
In order to cut the sole, shape the crocheted
slipper in the form of a foot, lay it on the card-
board, and draw around the outside (see Fig. 75). Cut it
out on this line; cut the eider-down the same size, and the
lining one-quarter of an inch larger all around. Put a row
FIG. 75.
Crocheting and Knitting 117
of gathering around the lining, slip in the cardboard and sew
in the same way as the pin-ball (Chapter IV). Paste the eider-
down flannel on it and sew the slipper to the sole from the
wrong side. Turn it, and finish at the top with a ribbon
bow and elastic, or with cord and balls.
If these are to be made for the children to wear, set up more
stitches in starting, and increase the number of rows in the
vamp also the number of stitches at the side and th£ number
of rows.
Lamb's-wool soles can be purchased for about 15 cents.
IIL Doll's Undervest
Materials. — Saxony, threefold, \ hank. — Bone crochet-hook,
No. 2. — White baby-ribbon, \ yard. — Approximate cost
per child 06
This little undervest is very attractive when finished, and
will provide good work for the children in teaching them
to work from printed or written directions, which can be
dictated or written on the board. If the directions given
below are followed carefully, the work will be found quite
easy.
Set up eighty-six stitches. Make six rows of single cro-
chet, taking up the back of the stitch and working lengthwise
of the vest. Work on.e side first, making thirty-eight stitches
of single crochet. Make nineteen rows and fasten off. Leave
ten stitches on the long band for the neck and crochet thirty-
eight stitches. Crochet nineteen rows; at the end xof the
nineteenth row make a chain of ten stitches for the neck.
Join it to the other side and make six rows to match the other
shoulder. Crochet the sides together, leaving one and one-
half inches for the armhole.
To finish the sleeve: Make one double crochet into the
second stitch, and one double crochet into the first stitch, all
around the opening. Then finish all around the sleeve by
118 Occupations for Little Fingers
making one single crochet, two chain, two double crochet in
the same stitch.
Neck : One double crochet, one chain-stitch over every rib,
and then finish like the sleeve.
IV* Cover for Scissors-Protector
Materials. — Florence knitting-silk. — Steel crochet-hook. —
Small cork. Approximate cost per child 01
Set up a chain of three stitches, join it same as the Tam-o'-
Shanter. Crochet several rows, widening to keep it flat, and
taking it through both sides of the stitch at once. Make this
piece large enough to cover the small end of the cork; then
work around without widening until it is deep enough for
the side. Finish it off by drawing the last stitch through,
leaving an end of silk long enough to run through the last
row of crocheting. This is to draw the case up after placing
it over the cork. Make a little tassel of silk and sew it on
where the work was started. Slip the case over the cork,
draw up the silk and fasten off with a few stitches ; work the
end into the crocheting.
V* Baby-Doll's Sack
Materials. — White Saxony, \ hank. — Colored Saxony, \ hank.
—Bone crochet-hook, No. 2. Approximate cost per
child 06
The yoke of this little sack is to be made with the color,
and the lower part with the white.
Make a chain of thirty-three stitches. Three rows plain,
single crochet, taking up back of stitch to form rib. In the
fourth row widen on eighth and tenth stitches, and have thir-
teen stitches between, on back of yoke. Also widen on the
eighth and tenth stitches from the opposite front.
Widen every row, having first two stitches between the
widenings, then four, six, eight, ten, twelve.
Crocheting and Knitting 119
Always keep thirteen stitches between the widenings on the
back, and the first widenings on the eighth and tenth stitches
from the fronts.
Jacket : Begin with a shell of four double crochet in every
third stitch of the yoke, until you reach the first point of the
yoke ; then make a chain of nine stitches and carry it on to the
other point of the yoke, with a shell in every third stitch until
you reach the third point of the yoke. Make a chain of nine
stitches, carry it to the fourth point of the yoke, join with
a shell and make a shell in every third stitch across the second
front. Make a chain of three and turn and put shell on shell
until you reach the chain on which you put three shells ; then
shell on shell across back, three shells on second chain, and so
on across the second front. Make the jacket eight shells
deep.
Sleeve : Join in the wool under the arm, and make shell on
shell on jacket, and a shell in every third stitch of the yoke from
the first row, seven or eight shells in all. Then six rows, shell
on shell.
Around the bottom of the jacket and sleeves put a row of
five double-crochet shells. Around the neck put a row of
holes for a ribbon, formed by one double crochet and one
chain; repeat across the neck and finish with a row of five
double-crochet shells. A row of color may be carried all
around the jacket by J^sing a single crochet in each stitch of
the shell.
VL Spool-Knitting
Materials. — Empty spool. — Pins or nails, 5 or 7. — Wire hair-
pin.— Colored wool.
Take a large empty spool and place the pins at regular
intervals around the hole at one end. Push these in securely,
as quite a little strain will corrie on them. Thin nails with
small heads may be used in place of pins.
Take the odd pieces of worsted that are left from other
120
Occupations for Little Fingers
work, tie them together and wind in a ball. Pass one end
through the hole from the end where the pins are, and
wind the worsted twice around the pins, going in front of one
and back of the next each time (see Fig. 76). Then pass the
worsted outside of all
the pins. Take the
loop that is on each
pin and slip it over
the head; use the
hairpin for this pur-
pose. Keep passing
the worsted around
the outside of the
pins and slipping the
stitches off in regular
order. This knitting
may be made in long
strips and used for
horse-reins and mats, or in short strips and used for doll's
golf-stockings. To finish it off : Break the worsted, leaving
about ten inches; thread the end in the needle and take up
the stitches from pins. Draw them up and fasten securely.
FIG. 76.
VIL Wash-Cloth
Materials. — Dexter knitting-cotton, No. 12. — 2 bone knitting-
needles, No. 4. Approximate cost per child 02
Set up forty stitches in the following manner : Make a loop,
slip it on the left-hand needle, and slip the right-hand needle
into the loop from front to back. Put the cotton over the
point of the needle from underneath and draw it through the
loop. Slip the loop from the right-hand needle on to the left.
Put the right needle through the second loop and do the
same again. Continue until enough stitches are on the left-
hand needle (see Fig. 77, a). Having the required number of
Crocheting and Knitting 121
stitches on the left-hand needle, put the right-hand needle into
the back of the first loop, from the front toward the back.
Throw the cotton over the needle and take up the stitch on the
right-hand needle, slipping the stitch from the left-hand one
(see Fig. 77, b). Repeat until all the stitches are on the right-
hand needle, then change needles and proceed as before. In
plain knitting always slip off the first stitch. In order to slip a
stitch, slip from one needle to the other without knitting.
Knit back and forth until you have a square, then bind off in
the following manner: Slip the first stitch, knit the second,
and with the point of the left-hand needle slip the first stitch
FIG. 77.
over the second, leaving one stitch on the needle each time.
Knit the next stitch and slip the one on the needle over it.
Continue until all the stitches are bound off. This should
be done rather loosely or the edge will draw.
Put an edge of one double and one single crochet all around.
Then make a scallop of four or five double-crochet stitches
in each space, catching them down with one single crochet-
stitch between each group.
Little afghans may be made in the same manner by using
two colors in Saxony yarn, and knitting two squares the same
size. These are placed together and a scallop put around the
edge.
122
Occupations for Little Fingers
VIIL Doll's Hood
Materials. — Shetland wool, J hank. — 2 bone knitting-needles,
No. 6. Approximate cost per child 04
Set up forty-five stitches and knit back and forth plain
for thirty rows. Bind off loosely. Fold the two sides to meet
in the centre, sew them together, and then fold the sides to-
gether and sew at both ends through. four thicknesses (see Fig.
78, a, b, and c). Catch together the points of the two seams
FIG. 78.
just sewed, and turn so that the seams are on the inside. Fold
back the front of the cap and run in a ribbon at the back to
draw it in at the nape of the neck and to form the strings.
Place a little bow on the top.
Wristlets
Materials. — Columbia yarn, J hank. — 2 bone needles, No. 4.
Approximate cost per child 05
Set up thirty-six stitches, knit two and purl two. To purl,
bring the wool from the back of the needle to the front ; take
Crocheting and Knitting 123
up a stitch with the right-hand needle, putting it in from the
right side or toward the knitter. Throw the wool over the
needle from the back toward the front, draw it through and
slip off the stitch. Be careful always to carry the wool back
of the needle before beginning to knit plain again after purl-
ing. After finishing one row, turn the work and begin the
next row by slipping the first stitch and knitting the second,
then purl two and continue as in the first row. When the
wristlet is about four inches deep bind it off loosely and sew it
together on the sides.
Two colors may be used, putting in the second color as a
border, top and bottom.
X* Doll's Sweater
Materials. — White Saxony, J hank. — Colored Saxony, J hank.
—2 bone knitting-needles, No. 4 or No. 2. — 2 steel nee-
dles, No. 1 6. Approximate cost per child 06
This little sweater is very attractive and, although more
complicated than the preceding articles, can be made by older
children with very little trouble if the following directions are
carefully noted :
Set up thirty-two stitches, knit two, purl two, for fifty rows.
Fifty-first row: Knit two, purl two for eight stitches, bind
off sixteen stitches, knit two, purl two for eight stitches. Knit
the first eight stitches back and forth in rib style, two and two
for seven rows. With an extra needle, knit on the opposite
side eight stitches until you have four rows ; bind off. Cast
on the extra needle eight stitches, knit back and forth with
rib of two and two until you have four rows. Join this small
piece to the body by casting on sixteen stitches to correspond
to sixteen stitches which were bound off. Continue with rib
of two until you have fifty rows.
Collar : Pick up the stitches around the neck, and with color
knit one, purl one, using smaller needles for two rows, then
124 Occupations for Little Fingers
use white for two rows, until you have three rows white and
three rows color; the last row of color will make three rows;
then bind off.
Sleeve : Divide the body in half, take up two loops on each
side, knit two and purl two, using both sides of the stitch,
making eight stitches. At the end of the row pick up another
stitch and in this loop make two stitches, knitting across again
with a rib ; pick up the loop on the other side, making in it two
stitches to correspond with opposite side. Continue thus,
picking up a loop and making two stitches at the end of every
row until you have thirty-two stitches on the needle, then
continue plain rib of two and two until you have twenty rows.
With color and small needles knit one, purl one, knit two to-
gether, and so on across the needle, turn and rib one and one
using color, same as in the collar. The sleeve may also be
made by taking up the thirty-two stitches at once, and knitting
twenty rows; this will make a sleeve without any fulness at
the top. Close the seam from the edge of the cuff to the bot-
tom of the body on both sides. Crochet loops and place the
buttons on the shoulder.
CHAPTER XII
SOME SPECIAL WORK FOR BOYS
BOYS' occupations must at times differ essentially from
those presented to girls. This chapter offers some special
suggestions for them, but they may also be worked out by the
girls. The penknife is particularly appealing because it
presents such a wide field for experiment and exploration.
Scissors, and the mucilage-pot follow in order, and help to add
to the intensity of interest.
The nearer the approach made to real life in the articles
produced, the greater is the degree of attention which is de-
veloped in the boy. With wood, hammer, and nails, the
scope of the work can be made very broad.
The following articles are suggestive and very easily made.
It is well, as far as possible, to allow the boys to carry out
their original ideas in regard to construction and decoration.
,-4 _.
L Jacob's Ladder
Materials. — i strip of heavy paper, 3 yards x 6 inches.
The Jacob's ladder, as illustrated in Plate XIV, No. i, was
a favorite pastime of children a decade or more ago. It is
easily made, and a particular delight to boys.
Roll the strip of paper, which may be composed of a number
of colors pasted together, into a hard cylindrical roll. Paste
the end to keep it in place. With a' sharp penknife cut the
roll, as shown in Fig. 79. Care must be taken to cut only half
125
126
Occupations for Little Fingers
FIG. 79.
way through, or,
in other words,
only to the centre
of the cylindri-
cal roll. Bend
it in half, as in
6, Fig. 79, and
open until the
centre of the roll
is visible. Take
hold of the top-
most layer of pa-
per in the centre
and pull up the ladder, which is formed by the successive
layers of paper.
IL The Palm-Tree
Materials. — i strip of heavy paper, 3 yards x 6 inches.
The paper tree is made in a manner similar to the
Jacob's ladder. Roll the long 'Strip of paper until it
forms a tight cylindrical roll. After the end of the strip
has been glued, the roll is prepared for cutting. This is
done from the
end instead of
the middle, and
only one cut is
necessary. Fig.
80 shows the roll
and the line
marked for cut-
t in g . The
length of the cut
should be half
the depth of the
FIG. 80.
whole roll.
PLATE XIV
127
i. Jacob's Ladder.
z. Palm-tree.
WORK FOR BOYS
3. Soldier Cap and Epaulets.
4. Kite.
5. Marble-bag.
6. Ball-cover.
7. Sail-boat.
128
Occupations for Little Fingers
Turn the pieces cut back in position (see Fig. 80 b) and
pull out the tree by taking hold of the innermost layer of
paper. Plate XIV, No. 2, shows a tree which has been made
from newspaper.
IIL Soldier Hat and Epaulets
Materials. — Sheets of colored paper or newspaper.
Hat: Take two sheets of paper, sixteen by twelve inches,
and place one exactly on top of the other. The hat is stronger
because of the two thicknesses, but it may be made of only
one. If a larger hat is desired, the
proportions must be the same; it
may be decreased in a similar way.
After placing the two pieces exactly
together so that it appears as one
double sheet, fold it until the two
twelve-inch edges lie on each other.
Place the paper so that the folded
edge is away from the worker. The
right- and left-hand corners of this
folded edge are to be turned down
(see Fig. 81 a). After folding the
point of the hat in this way, turn up
the finishing band at the bottom to
complete the fold. This band is
folded over twice, and half is turned to each side of the hat
(see Fig. 81 6). The ends may be finished by gluing them
together or pinning them in place.
A pompon may be added by taking a strip of paper and
clipping it with the scissors to make a fringe. This can then
be rolled in a cylinder to form the pompon. Pin or sew to
the point of the hat.
Epaulets: Cut a pattern according to the size of the
epaulets desired. The shape should be similar to Fig. 82.
b
FIG. 81.
Some Special Work for Boys
129
After cutting the correct size, prepare several thicknesses
of the same shape for each epaulet. Sew through the
middle of each with a herringbone - stitch, using some
bright worsted, and clip the fringe with
the scissors (see Fig. 82).
IV. A Baseball Cover
Materials. — Heavy felt. — Waxed twine or
thread.
There are several ways of covering a
ball, but only two of the more simple
methods are described below.
Measure the circumference of the ball
and cut a paper pattern according to the shape in Fig. 83 a,
using three-fourths of this measurement for the length and
one-fourth for the width in the centre. Two such pieces
FIG. 82.
FIG. 83.
will be necessary for the cover, and the pattern will have to
be fitted until it exactly covers the surface of the ball (see
Fig. 83 a). The cover is then ready to be sewed.
130
Occupations for Little Fingers
\
FIG. 84.
Another way to prepare it is to
cut two circles of felt and one strip,
which must exactly measure the cir-
cumference of the ball. One-third
of the circumference will give the di-
ameter for the circles. Cut the strip
from two to two and one-half inches
wide, or according to the size of the
ball. Sew it together first and then
add the circles.
The drawing-in stitch is used for
the sewing of both covers. This is a
simple alternating stitch and ha? the
effect of a lacing. For the cover it
is taken in a slanting way and a space of one-quarter of an
inch is left between the stitches on each side of the edge (see
Fig. 84). The needle is put under the edge first to the right
and then to the left of the opening, pointing it toward the
worker.
V. Paper Kite
Materials. — 2 flat sticks, 1 1 x J inches. — i flat stick, 8 x |
inches. — i sheet of newspaper
or heavy brown paper. — Twine
and glue.
The three sticks must be bound
together in such a way that the kite
will be well balanced. The propor-
tion is about one-third above and
two-thirds below the crossing of the
third stick (see Fig. 85). Two may
be tied together first and the shorter
one bound to the others. In the end
of each stick cut a slight groove and
bind the sticks together with a cord
FIG. 85.
Some Special Work for Boys
131
(see Fig. 85). When the frame is ready, lay it on the paper
and cut out the kite covering — allow one inch on all sides for
turnings. Fold this allowance over the cord and paste it
down. For the tail a number of rolls of paper two and one-
half inches in length may be tied together, leaving a space of
about two inches between each roll. The tail is attached
to the centre of the balance cord at the bottom of the kite.
This cord is put on by making holes in the paper and tying
the string around the two bottom sticks ; about twelve inches
FIG. 80.
of cord are required for this purpose (see Fig. 86). The cord
for flying must be attached as follows: One inch from the
top of the kite tie the upper cord a; this is six inches in
length, and the ends are attached to the two upper sticks.
Cord b is attached to the two lower sticks, and is a trifle
longer than cord a. Eight inches is a good length in pro-
portion.
Attach a and 6 with cord c, which is six inches in length,
and allows for the pulling of the kite. The fly string is at-
132 Occupations for Little Fingers
tached to c, and should be put on with a slipknot, so that
the kite may be balanced in flying. This will depend on the
weight of the tail (see Fig. 86).
VL Indian Tents
Materials. — Unbleached muslin. — 3 sticks. — Water-color
paints.
For the small tent shown in Plate XV, No. 4, three sticks,
ten inches in length, have been used. These may be bound
together loosely four inches from the top.
A circle of muslin, sixteen inches in diameter, will make
two tents. Cut the circle in half and remove a small segment
from each side of the half (see Fig. 87). Cut a small semi-
circular piece from the centre
of the original circle, according
to Fig. 87. The tent shape is
then prepared ready for deco-
ration. The design may be
sketched in pencil on the mus-
FlG 87 lin and decorated with water-
colors. Plate XV, No. 4,
shows a simple decoration made by a child. The tent may
be laced together for a short distance at the top with a strip
of unbleached muslin.
The tents may be made any size by piecing the muslin in
strips according to the width desired. Three breadths of
unbleached muslin, three yards in length, will make a good-
size tent. They are, of course, only play tents, but afford
much pleasure. Cut five poles about five feet in height.
Point the large ends and stick them in the ground so that
they meet at the top. Drape the cloth about them, and lace
at the top as described.
PLATE XV
133
WORK FOR BOYS
1. Indian Headdress. 3. Doll.
2. Indian Belt. 4. Tepee.
Bow.
Arrow.
134 Occupations for Little Fingers
VIL Indian Head-Dress
Materials. — i strip of Turkey- red, i yard x 4 inches. — Chicken
feathers. — Large beads, 2 strings.
Prepare the strip of Turkey-red by folding under the raw
edges until they lap. Baste, until the sewing of the beads
holds them in place. Measure the head size of the child by
putting the prepared band around the forehead, and crossing
it in the back. The extra length is allowed to hang.
For the decoration, old ostrich plumes or chicken feathers
may be used, or even an old feather-duster. Sew the feathers
close together and put the ends of the quills on the inside of
the band. Decorate the band with the beads. String from
six to ten of assorted colors on a strong thread and then take
a stitch through the material. This Indian method of work
has been described in the chapter on Bead- work (Fig. 57).
Any extra decoration of bead-work, or other arrangement of
feathers may be used. The strip may be made two or three
yards in length, and the feathers sewed so as to form a head-
dress which will extend to the feet.
A belt may be made in a similar way, by measuring the size
of the waist and having the feathers arranged to hang down
about it.
VIIL Indian Doll
Materials. — Unbleached muslin. — Sawdust. — Paint-box.
Cut a pattern for the shape of the doll' by doubling a sheet
of paper and cutting a doll as described in the chapter on
Paper-cutting. Cut two pieces of unbleached muslin the
shape of the pattern, and sew them together all around except
on the upper side of one arm and one side of the head. Turn
inside out and stuff with sawdust. Sew up the opening left,
with an overhand stitch.
Paint the face light brown, and the eyes, eyebrows, etc.,
Some Special Work for Boys
135
FIG. 88.
black. The doll is now ready to be dressed. The trousers
are cut from a square piece of material (see Fig. 88). Cut
two squares of the same size and remove the pieces of mate-
rial at the inner curve of the leg. Sew the two thicknesses to-
gether around the curve and turn.
Sew up the outside seam with run-
ning stitches taken one inch from
the edge and on the right side of the
trousers. Fringe the outside and
bottom of each leg and decorate
with colored paint.
The coat is also made from a
square piece of unbleached cloth.
Cut a pattern from paper first (see
Fig. 89) to fit the size of the doll.
Cut the muslin according to the pattern. A and b of the
figure are the sleeve portions, and the coat is to be folded on
the dotted line. Sew the
sleeves and under-arm seam
on the right side, one inch
from the edge. Clip with
the scissors to form a fringe
all around the coat, with the
exception of the neck and
down the front. A red yarn
may be used for further
decoration, and the fringe
and coat painted with the
water-colors to match the
trousers. Cut out the neck
size and punch three or four holes along each front of the
coat and lace with the yarn.
The head-dress is made of a strip of muslin clipped to
form a fringe and then painted. The strip is sewed around
the doll's forehead.
FIG. 89.
136 Occupations for Little Fingers
IX. Marble Bag
Materials. — Denim, 16x5^ inches. — Poseidon, or ribbon,
i yard.
Double the oblong of denim so that the two right sides of
the material are together. Seam both sides to within two and
three-quarter inches of the top, allowing one-quarter of an inch
for seams and using a stitching stitch (see Fig. 33). Turn the
bag right side out. Bring one and one-half inches of the head-
ing to the right side and seam for one inch at each end. There
will be four such seams. Turn the four seams just sewed in-
side out so that the raw edges come within. Turn the bag
again to the wrong side and hem, after making a turning of
one-quarter of an inch. One-quarter of an inch above the
hemming make a row of running stitches to form a casing.
Run in the cord and tie the ends with an overhand knot. A
marble bag has only one draw-string.
X* Bow and Arrow
Materials. — i piece of J-inch pine, 20 inches. — i piece of flat
ash, 28 x -| x f inches.
The Indians in calculating for the length of their bows
measure eight times the span of the hand. This measurement
is from the end of the thumb across the palm to the end of the
little finger. The arrow is the length of the arm from the
thumb-nail to the armpit. Find the middle of the twenty-
FIG. 90.
eight-inch piece of ash which is for the bow. With a knife
gradually narrow the width of the stick from the centre
toward each end. Do not make it less than one-quarter of an
inch in width at the narrowest part. Cut some kind of a
fancy shape at each end of the bow (see Fig. 90), and use
Some Special Work for Boys 137
sand-paper to smooth the surface. After finishing the out-
line, the upper side may be decorated with fancy cutting, or
paints used to make it more ornate. Tie a string around the
neck formed at one end and bend the bow to the right curve.
Measure the length of the cord necessary to cross the bow
and make a loop at the other end. The loop may be slipped
around the neck at the opposite end when it is curved, or re-
moved when the bow is not in use.
The arrow: Whittle the four edges of the twenty-inch
stick until it is round. The diameter of the stick at one end
for about two inches in length should be one-half of an inch,
and gradually slope to the diameter of one-quarter of an inch
for the other eighteen inches. Smooth with sand-paper and
cut a slight groove in the small end for the cord.
XI. Sail-boat Furnishings
Any sail-boat which is available may be rigged and equipped
by the children. It makes excellent cooperative work.
The pattern must first be cut the size of the sails desired.
These are made of cotton tape from one to one and one-
half inches in width. Baste the tape to the pattern in rows,
having the edge of the tape on the outside of the sail pattern
—the side away from the mast. Baste the other
rows parallel to the first and lap each successive
one one-fourth of an inch over the previous row.
Hem all the rows flat. Remove the bastings,
turn the sail to the other side and hem. This is
called counter-hemming. Three sides of the
large sail are to be hemmed with one-eighth of
an inch hem; the fourth side is the selvage. The
jib may be prepared in a similar way to the
main-sail.
The boat may be furnished with sand-bags
for ballast, cushions, and bumpers. They should FIG. 91.
138
Occupations for Little Fingers
a
be made in proportion to the size
of the boat.
The cushions should be cut
— — 3 square and a stitching stitch
used in sewing the seams. They
can then be stuffed with cotton
and overhanded on the fourth
side. The sand-bags are oblong
in shape and sewed in the same
way. Stuff them with sand and
overhand the fourth edge.
The bumpers are made of a
square of muslin. Sew two of
the opposite sides together to make a hollow cylinder. Cut
disks of muslin to fit the ends and overhand one to each end
of the cylinder. Before sewing in the second one, run in a
cord and fill with sand (see Fig. 91).
FIG. 92.
FIG. 93.
Some Special Work for Boys 139
The captain of the boat may also be made of muslin.
There are four rolls, one for the head and trunk which is
about three-fourths of an inch in diameter, and three thinner
rolls to form the arms and legs.
In preparing the rolls, they must be wound very tightly
and sewed. In rolling, double the roll itself after winding a
few times, so as to make it very firm. Sew them according
to Fig. 92. Cut patterns for the clothes. Suggestive pat-
terns are offered in Fig. 93 ; the size will depend on the doll
and boat.
Mark the face of the doll with ink, and sew some wool or
darning-cotton to the top of the roll for hair.
CHAPTER XIII
HOW TO USE NATURE'S MATERIALS
NATURE is very liberal in giving us materials that can be
used by the children in their work or play with very little
expense. In fact, we hardly realize how much we have ready
at hand unless our attention is especially called to it.
The materials vary in different parts of the country; for
instance, in the South there are the pine-needles, the pal-
metto, the corn-husks, the blue grass of Kentucky, the wis-
taria, grape-vines, and the rushes. An ingenious teacher,
mother, or child will find many others when the possibilities
of those mentioned above are learned. As one goes farther
North, one finds more beautiful grasses, rushes, birch bark,
twigs from the trees, willows, grape-vines, and also the corn-
husks, which have very beautiful coloring. Nature is indeed
good to us if we know how to use her wealth.
L Chains
Very attractive chains can be made by the little people from
materials which they have gathered. The haws from the
wild-rose bushes may be strung together, using a large needle
and rather coarse thread. Red ears of corn, dried and shelled,
supply excellent material for another style of chain. Dried
peas and squash or pumpkin-seeds, used together, and strung
in different combinations (see Fig. 94), are exceedingly pretty.
Acorns and maple wings alternated with pieces of coarse grass
about one and one-half inches long (see Fig. 94) form another
chain. Horse-chestnuts of small size can also be used, with
or without the coarse grass. We might enumerate any num-
140
How to Use Nature's Materials
141
her more, but from these suggestions the children will find
something that may be used to form the bright pretty chains
that they all love so
well.
II* Fruit-Basket
Materials. — G r a p e-
vines.
All through Italy
and Switzerland, as
the trains pull into
the stations, the hot
and dusty traveller
sees bands of little
children with trays
filled with the dainti-
est baskets, full of
the luscious grapes of
those countries. These baskets are made of grape-vines,
and are woven in the following manner:
Cut five four-inch pieces of the heavier vine; take two of
these and split them in the centre for about one and one-half
inches (see Fig. 95). Slip the other three through this slit.
Take a long slim piecet5f the vine and, beginning at the small-
est end, wind it over and under the crossed spokes, going
twice around. Then insert another weaver of about the same
size and make three rows of pairing (see Fig. 14); fasten the
ends by working them into the weaving. Do not try to press
the weavers close together, as
in rattan weaving. These
three rows should make the
bottom about three inches in
diameter. At the side of each spoke insert a spoke of vine
about sixteen inches long. If the pieces are rather small two
FIG. 94.
142
Occupations for Little Fingers
may be put in together. The largest end of the vine is pushed
in at the side of the spoke. Bring each spoke, or group of
spokes, under the one to the right, over the next, and under
the next, and down to the lower edge of the basket, leaving
a loop which stands up about four inches. Continue in this
manner all around the basket ; the last two spokes will have to
go under, over, and under
the first two groups that were
used. When all the spokes
are down at the bottom, fin-
ish them with the following
border: Take the first spoke
and place it under the next
one to the right, over the
next one, and back. Do this
all around the basket, work-
ing the last spokes in through
the loops formed by the first.
Cut off the ends that are left.
Cut two lengths of vine about
FIG. 96. seventeen inches, and push
them into the bottom nearly
to the centre, on opposite sides of the basket. These pieces
are to form the handle. Bring them up on the outside to
the top of the basket, twist the ends together, and then bring
them over to the opposite side from where they started. Tie
them by working the small end in and out of the weaving
and around the handle itself (see Fig. 96). This finishes
the basket. Fill it with a grape-leaf and a bunch of grapes,
and you will have a very artistic combination.
IIL Hanging-Basket for Ferns
Take six twigs of some pliable wood, rather green, and
about a yard long. Tie them together at the small ends,
How to Use Nature's Materials 143
using the end of one and wrapping it around the others, two
or three times ; fasten by slipping it into the wrapping. Take
each end in turn and place it under the one to the left and out.
Continue working in this manner, increasing the spaces be-
tween the twists or ties each time, to make the basket larger
at the top (see Fig.
97). When you
have sixteen or
eighteen rows, if
the basket is as
deep as you desire
it, push the last
spoke through the
same loop that the
first one of that
row went under.
To complete the
basket, cut off the twigs rather close to where they are
fastened. A handle may be added: Take a long pliable
twig, double it in the centre and pass it through the weav-
ing on one side a couple of rows from the top; twist the
long ends together and bring them over to the opposite side,
where they must be fastened to make a strong finish. Line
the inside of the basket with moss, and plant a fern in it.
A hoop of wire may be attached to one side in place of the
handle.
IV* Jar Covered with Wistaria
Materials. — Small colored jardiniere, or earthen flower-pot. —
Wistaria vine.
This idea is borrowed from the Japanese, who have the
wistaria vine in great abundance, and who have learned
how well it is adapted to this artistic use. Take six long,
slim pieces of the vine and cross them three and three in
the centre. Tie them, and place on the bottom of the jar to
144 Occupations for Little Fingers
find the diameter of the bottom or where the weaving is to
commence.
Take another slim piece of vine, double it in the centre,
and slip it over one of the spokes. Make three or four rows
of paired weaving (see Fig. 14), drawing it in slightly to fit the
jar. Cut off the weavers and fasten them by pushing them
into the weaving. Cut the spokes at the centre where they
were tied, and make the following finish at the bottom close
to the weaving. Put each spoke over the one to the right
and inside. The last spoke goes through the loop formed by
the first. Cut off the ends. The upper part is made by ty-
ing the upper part of the spokes in knots : either the Solomon's
knot or the sailor's knot may be used — both are described
in the chapter on Cord- work. Divide the spokes into groups
of four and tie a row of knots around the jar. Then take two
spokes from each knot, and tie another row about three-
fourths of an inch above the first. Continue in this way, the
knots forming meshes, until within one-half of an inch of the
top of the jar. Insert a weaver and work with paired weaving
to the top, where it may be finished off with the following
border. Put each spoke over the one to the right and inside ;
the last spoke goes through the loop formed by the first.
A long handle may be added in the same manner as de-
scribed in the fern-basket. The prettiest jars to cover are
those which come in the plain glazed colors, green, red, blue,
and yellow being the most attractive. If these cannot be
obtained, flower-pots of unglazed earthen- ware may be used
to good advantage.
V. Birch-Bark
Birch-bark is another material which has many possibilities,
and is easily obtained in certain localities. It can be handled
by small children as it is quite tough and pliable.
A simple little picture-frame may be made in the following
manner: Cut two pieces of the bark three and one-half by
PLATE XVI
145
1. Grape basket.
2. Fern basket.
3. ( 'overt'd jar.
4. Picture-frame.
5. Canoe of birch-bark.
NATURE'S MATERIALS
6. Box of bircb-bark.
7. Corn-husk hat.
8. Corn-husk basket.
9. Hemp and grass box.
I Plaque.
11. Blue-print.
12. Rye-straw basket.
13. Jar covered with wis-
taria.
146
Occupations for Little Fingers
three inches, or any other dimensions desired. From one
cut a piece from the centre, leaving a one-inch margin all
around. Fasten them together at the four corners with
McGill fasteners No. A. A. i, or with a little bow of Poseidon
cotton.
In connection with the study of primitive life, a little canoe
may be made. Take a piece of bark seven inches long and
five inches wide. Find the centre of the two short sides,
measure in from there toward the centre one inch, and draw
a curved line from that point to the outside edge at the cor-
ners (see Fig. 98). The long sides may be slightly hollowed
FIG. 98.
in the same way. With a small punch make a row of holes
one-fourth of an inch from the edge on the two short sides.
Double the bark together and lace through the holes twice
with a piece of raffia, making the stitches cross. A decora-
tion of some sort may be painted on the canoe or worked with
raffia.
Work for the older children may take the form of boxes or
scrap-baskets. For the box, cut two disks of bark, three and
three-fourth inches and one three and one-half inches in diam-
eter, one strip two by twelve inches, and one strip one-half
by ten and one-half inches. Punch a row of small holes on both
edges of the widest strip, about one-quarter of an inch from
How to Use Nature's Materials 147
the edge and one-half inch apart, and at one end make two
rows of holes alternating them. On the edge of the narrow
strip put one row of holes, and four at one end. On the disks
punch a row the same distance from the edge and spaced in
the same way. On one of the larger disks put a second row
just inside of the first row punched. This is for the under side
of the cover and is to have the narrow strip laced to it to form
an edge, which holds the cover on the box. It is now ready
to put together. Lap the widest strip one inch, and sew it
with raffia, using a herringbone-stitch. Fasten this to the
bottom of the box, i.e., the smaller disk, using a straight stitch
connected by a
slanting one.
This makes the ^^^j
sewing very FIG 99
strong, as each
stitch passes through the holes twice. The finish at the
top is similar, a thin piece of pliable wood or rattan
being laid around on the inside of the box, and held in
place by the stitches. After working around the top once,
turn and come back, crossing each slanting stitch (see Fig.
99). A coil of sweet grass may be put around the top and bot-
tom of the box, and held in place by the stitches. For the
cover, after lacing the narrow strip to the disk with the two
rows of holes, place t^e two together and lace them around
the outside edge in the same manner as the top of the box.
Make a small ring of raffia and fasten it to the centre of the
cover. The birch-bark for these boxes must be of rather
heavy quality.
VL Corn-Husk Hat
Materials. — Square of brown paper. — Corn-husks.
The hat shown in Plate XVI, No. 7, is a miniature of those
worn by the negroes in the cotton-fields. They are very light,
easily made, and cost practically nothing.
148 Occupations for Little Fingers
Take a square of paper the diameter of the hat desired,
fold it first in half, then in quarters, forming a small square.
Fold this on the diagonal, and keep folding it in this way until
the short side is on top. Cut off the paper to the length of
this short side. Measure down from the point, one-sixth of
the head size, and cut off. This will give the brim for the
hat. Cut a circle or disk for the top of the crown in the same
manner. These pieces and a straight piece for the side
crown are to be covered with the corn-husks. Cut the husks
into one-inch strips and point one end by folding the two
corners to the centre. Lay these strips on the paper brim
so that the points extend just beyond the edge, and the strips
overlap each other slightly at the outer edge; bring them to
the centre, where they will lap considerably, and baste to hold
them in position. On the under side of the paper, the strips
may be wider, and the ends straight instead of pointed.
Turn them under and place them even with the outer edge
of the paper; lap them in the same way as on the upper side.
Take the piece of paper for the side crown and cover it with
the husks in the same manner as the upper brim, pointing one
end of each strip and letting it extend about one inch beyond
the edge. The crown is made in the same manner, the pieces
meeting in the centre, where the ends are covered with a
small circle of husk. After all the pieces are prepared, they
are to be stitched on the machine to hold them in place.
Start in the centre and stitch around the crown, spacing the
rows about three-eighths of an inch apart. After the crown
is stitched, put three or four rows on the side crown. Then
baste it to the brim, lapping the points the width that they
extend beyond the paper, stitch it in the same way as the
crown. Fasten the top of the crown and the side crown
together by taking several stitches between each point. Trim
out the head size. These hats are quite attractive when
trimmed. If a machine is not available for the finishing, some
fancy stitch that will hold the husks in place may be used.
How to Use Nature's Materials 149
VIL Corn-Husk Baskets
In some localities where corn-husks are very plentiful,
they may be used for baskets in place of raffia. The coiled
basket described in Chapter III works out very well with
the husks, which may be split and used for the sewing also.
Several pieces are laid together and are wrapped with an
extra piece to form a coil. The short length of the husk ne-
cessitates frequent piecing; always lap them with the small
end over the large one. To piece them for sewing tie them
together with an overhand knot.
Plate XVI, No. 8, shows a basket where the spokes are of
rattan and the weavers are of coiled corn-husks. Take eight
pieces of No. 3 rattan, sixteen inches long, and one, nine
inches long. Cross them four and four in the centre, and add
the extra spoke either at the corner or in the centre of one side.
Tie in place with a strand of raffia. Have ready a coil of
the husks about six yards long, and use it as a weaver, passing
it over and under one spoke each time. When the mat is
about four and one-half inches in diameter, bend the spokes
up at the sides and continue with the weaving until the sides
are about one and one-half inches high. Cut off the coil and
tie the ends to keep them from unwinding. Take a weaver
of No. 2 rattan, doublejt in the centre and make several rows
of paired weaving (see Fig. 14) around the top of the basket.
Cut off the ends and work them into the weaving. Finish
the top with the following border, after the spokes have been
soaked to make them pliable. Place each spoke in succession
back of the next one to the right, in front of the next, and back
of the next to the inside of the basket. The last two spokes
will be worked through the loops formed by the first ones.
After the border is dry, trim the ends of the spokes to within
one-half inch of the border.
150 Occupations for Little Fingers
VIII* Grass and Hemp Baskets
The most artistic use we can make of the materials that
Nature offers to us, is the grass basket sewed with hemp.
These baskets are by far the most difficult to execute of any
that have been thus far described, but are so charming when
finished that they repay one for the time and labor they de-
mand. Hemp in its natural color may be bought at any
cordage company. It is a fibre which takes the dye easily,
and artistic colors may be obtained by the use of vegetable
dyes. To prepare it, divide it into hanks about as large as
the wrist, and wrap it in coils. It can be dampened before
putting it in the dye, but it does not need to be put in a mor-
dant. To dry it, loosen the coil and hang it up; after dry-
ing, it is best to coil it again, as it is a delicate fibre and apt
to become tangled and easily broken.
The grasses for these baskets should be gathered in the
early part of the summer, before they blossom ; long, pliable
leaves are the best for the purpose. They should be thor-
oughly dried in a shady place as the sun will take out some
of the charming color. Grasses which grow in swampy land
will be found excellent for this purpose. Rushes, flag, and
the broad leaves of the prairie grasses may also be used. The
stiff grass which conies up the last of August, after the hay has
been cut, and which turns a soft brown with the first frost,
makes a nice variation in color. It is also good to use for
filling, as it is very firm. Rye straw sewed with yellow or
green hemp is very artistic. The corn-husks which are used
to make a pattern in the baskets, may be found in many
colors — yellow, red, and a reddish brown.
As the hemp is rather difficult for a beginner to manage,
it is best to sew the first basket made with raffia, using the
hemp for the centre, and putting in the grasses around the
edge for a finish.
Take a bunch of hemp about as large as the little finger (in
How to Use Nature's Materials
151
dividing the hemp always try to divide it where it separates
naturally, and take hold of it near the centre, pulling it both
ways), wrap the large end five times with raffia of a contrast-
ing color which has been threaded into a large-eyed needle,
spacing the wrappings about one-fourth of an inch apart.
Coil in a small circle and take one stitch through to hold it.
Then begin sewing the long end of the hemp down, taking a
stitch in each of the first five wrappings. The hemp is held
in the left hand with the thumb and second finger, the first
finger being left free to hold each stitch in place while the
FIG. 100.
raffia is being drawn through the coil; the long end of the
hemp must not be held by the hand, but be left loosely hang-
ing to the left (see Fig. 100). Each stitch is taken through
the coil, the needle being put in from the back toward the
worker, and so that it passes under the stitch in the last coil;
before this stitch is pulled through, place it at the desired
angle, and hold it firmly with the first finger. This forms the
swirls. When the stitches get too far apart, new ones are
added half-way in the spaces. Do not have the stitches too
close together, as it will spoil the effect. Each stitch must be
pulled tight before the next one is put in, for upon this de-
152 Occupations for Little Fingers
pends the beauty of the basket. As the hemp becomes thin,
another bunch may be added by separating the old one and
hiding the new ends between. Continue sewing until the
bottom is about three and one-half inches in diameter. Cut
off the ends of the hemp to within two and one-half or three
inches of the last stitch. Take a bunch of long green grass,
about the same size as the hemp, arrange it so that all the
large ends are together and, separating the hemp as before,
hide the ends. Take one or two stitches over both grass and
hemp, and then gradually work the latter to the wrong side
of the basket, where it is cut off. In working with the grass,
the coil must be kept full — this means adding grass frequently,
always working toward the small end and hiding the new
large ends by placing them in the centre of the old ones.
When the bottom of the basket is large enough, begin
building it up on the sides. The same principle applies here
as in coiled basket described in the chapter on Raffia; the
angle at which the coils are laid on one another determines
FIG. 101.
the shape. The grass being stiffer than the raffia, it will be
necessary to shape it somewhat with the hands. In order to
finish the basket at the top, cut out some of the grass and lap
the ends down on the outside, sewing them firmly. This way
of building up the sides is only used where the inside of the
basket is the right side.
In shaping a basket, where the sides are to curve out and
How to Use Nature's Materials 153
then be brought in, a different principle is used. When ready
to turn it up, bring the material with which you are sewing
under the coil and turn the basket around so that the grass ex-
tends toward the right instead of the left. Place the needle
through each stitch in the same direction you have been
working (see Fig. 101) ; this will change the slant of the stitch
but will bring the right side of the basket toward the worker.
A basket started with grass and sewed with hemp is more
difficult to manage on account of the quality of the hemp.
This must be divided into needlefuls before beginning to sew.
Tie up each one separately, and place them in some con-
venient spot where they will not become tangled with the
grass. A sail needle is the best to use, and each needleful
should be large enough to pass through the eye easily. Take
away all the short pieces, as they will only bother later, and
thread in the needle from the large end ; if slightly dampened
the hemp will work better. To piece the hemp use a weav-
er's knot (see Plate I, No. 9) and tie close to the last stitch.
Follow the directions for sewing with the raffia, being sure to
hold each stitch down carefully with the first finger while
pulling the hemp through. Keep the coil of grass full, i.e.,
about the size of the finger. When the bottom is large enough
bring the hemp under the coil to the outside, and continue
sewing, building the coils on top of one another. ' Better ef-
fects may be gained by using heavier grasses for the up-
per part of the basket. Keep the grasses parallel to each
other, and do not let them twist.
It is well to make a design for the shape before beginning to
work ; any pottery form will answer nicely. Plate XVI, No.
10, shows a plaque or tray where the corn-husk is put in to
form a pattern ; the centre is started the same as the foregoing
basket. After working until t^e centre is about three inches
in diameter, start the pattern in the following manner: Tear
the corn-husk into strips about one inch wide by three inches
long, fold the long edges in slightly toward the centre. Gather
154
Occupations for Little Fingers
one end together and slip it under the coil of grass to the wrong
side, close to the last stitch. Wrap the long end over the grass
and take two or three stitches, gradually working the other
end over to the wrong side of the basket; this should make
both ends on the slant (see Fig.
102). When exactly opposite
where the first piece of husk
was put in, insert a second one
in the same way, and sew it
down with the same number of
stitches. This starts the pat-
tern, which may be worked out
in any form desired, increasing
and decreasing the spaces cov-
ered by the husk.
In piecing the grass, it is well
to do so under the husk as
it will show less. Bands of different colored grasses may be
worked in with very good effect. In finishing a large plaque
or basket insert a stitch between each swirl for the outside
FIG. 102.
row.
IX. Blue Prints of Grasses
Materials. — Blue print paper. — Printing frame. — Grasses
or ferns.
These prints are very easy to make and are exceedingly at-
tractive.
Gather the grasses, leaves, or ferns, and place them in the
printing frame between the glass and the paper. Expose them
for about ten minutes, and then wash the print in cold water.
The children can make interesting books by mounting the
prints on one page, and writing a description of the grass or
leaf on the opposite side.
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