Old Melbourne memories

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES

/

3LD MELBOURNE MEMORIES

OLD MELBOURNE
MEMORIES

BY

ROLF BOLDREWOOD

AUTHOR OF
' MY RUN HOME,' ' THE SQUATTER'S DREAM," ' ROBBERY UNDER ARMS,' ETC.

SECOND EDITION, REVISED

i

3Lontion

MACMILLAN AND CO, Ltd.

NEW YORK : MACMILLAN & CO.
I896

All rights reserved

/

TO

MY EARLIEST ADMIRER AND MOST INDULGENT CRITIC

$$% 2D*ate0t apotljer

FROM WHOM

I DERIVE THE WRITING FACULTY

AND

TO WHOM IS CHIEFLY DUE WHATEVER MEED OF PRAISE

MY READERS MAY HEREAFTER VOUCHSAFE

• v-s- v*-'- ^-- «.>■

MB SEie

PREFACE

These reminiscences of the early days of Melbourne
— a city which, as a family, we helped to found —
awakened, when first published in the columns of the
Australasian, an amount of general interest most
gratifying to the writer.

It is hoped that, in their present more convenient
form, they may secure and retain the approbation of
the public.

I should feel bound to apologise for the mention
of names in full were I not conscious that I have
written no line calculated to offend ; nor have I, for
one moment, failed in sincere goodwill towards every
comrade of that joyous time.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

J>AGF.
A.D. 1840 ...... I

CHAPTER II

The Far West . . . . .10

CHAPTER III
The Death of Violet . . . 23

CHAPTER IV

DUNMORE . . . . . -33

CHAPTER V

Squattlesea Mere . . . . 41

CHAPTER VI

The Eumeralla War . . . • 51

X

OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES

CHAPTER VII
The Children of the Rocks

CHAPTER IX

Kll FERA .

CHAPTER X
Old Port Fairy

CHAPTER XII

GRA 5M1 RE

TAGE
63

CHAPTER VIII
The Native Police . • . ■ 74

87

98

CHAPTER XI
Portland Bay . • • • .106

121

CHAPTER XIII

Sup] !'.VI rENINC COUN1 RV . . • 'J-

CHAPTER XIV
CHETT 01 •■ 1 hi Gums" . . .142

CHAPTER XV
Work and Play . . . • • 151

CONTENTS xi

CHAPTER XVI

PAGE

The Romance of a Freehold . . . 160

CHAPTER XVII
Le Chevalier Bayard . . . .170

CHAPTER XVIII

The Christening of Heidelberg . . .179

CHAPTER XIX
The Woodlands Steeplechase . . .187

CHAPTER XX
Yering ...... 200

CHAPTER XXI

Tales of a "Traveller" . . . .212

CHAPTER XXII
Yambuk ...... 222

POEMS

Ballaarat in 185 1 . . . . -237

The Death of Welford .... 242
Sunset in the South .... 244

XI 1

OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES

Balaclava

The Bushman's Lullaby

Mornin<;

Wanted

Perdita

" Priez pour Elle'

PAGE
246

249

252
253

255
257

CHAPTER I

A.D. 184O

Standing in the gathering winterly twilight, at the
intersection of Elizabeth and Flinders Streets, one
instinctively remarks the long crowded suburban
trains, laden with homeward-bound passengers,
quitting the city and care for the night's charmed
interval. All the streets of busy Melbourne are yet
thronged, in spite of the apparently rapid diminution
which is proceeding. The indefinable hum, notice-
able in large urban populations at the close of the
day, as the lamps are lit, which mark for most men
the boundary between work and recreation, is
increasingly audible. The grand outlines of the
larger public buildings become suggestively indis-
tinct. If your ear be good, you may hear the
steam-whistle and the roar of the country trains at
Spencer Street Station. The senses of the musing
spectator are filled to saturation with the sights
and sounds proper to the largest, the most highly
civilised, the most prosperous city in the world, for
the years of its existence. Stranger than fiction
& B

2 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

docs it not seem, that in the month of April, in the
year of grace 1840, we should have migrated en
famille from Sydney to assist in the colonisation of
Port Phillip, in the founding of this city of Melbourne ?
The moderate-sized schooner which carried us safely
hither in a few hours under a week had been
chartered by Paterfamilias, so that we were unre-
stricted as to many matters not usually left to the
discretion of passengers. It was a floating home.
Colonists of ten years' standing, we had many things
to bear with us, which under other circumstances of
transit must have been left behind. There were
carriage horses and cows, the boys' ponies, the
children's canaries, poultry, and pigeons, dogs and
cats, babies and nurses, furniture, flower-pots, work-
men, house servants — all the component portions of
a large household shifted bodily from a suburban
home, and ready to be transferred to the first
suitable dwelling in the new settlement. One can

ily imagine to what a state of misery and con-
fusion such a freight would have been reduced had
bad weather come on. But the winds and the
waves were kind, and on Saturday afternoon the
harbour-master of Williamstown partook of some
slight alcoholic refreshment on board, and welcomed
us to Port Phillip. Well is remembered even now
the richly-green appearance of the under-stocked

issy Hat upon which the particularly small village
of Williamstown stood. A few cottages, more huts
— with certain public-houses, of course — made up
the township. More distinctly marked even were
the succulence and juiciness of the first Port Phillip
mutton-chops upon which was regaled our keenly

i A.D. 1840 3

hungry party. We had just quitted the enfeebled
meat markets of Sydney, scarce recovered from that
terrible drought which wasted the years of 1837,
1838, and 1839. We had reached a land of
Goshen evidently — a land of milk and butter, if not
of honey — a land of chops and steaks, of sirloins
and " under-cuts " — of all youthful luxuries well-nigh
forgotten — of late unattainable in New South Wales
as strawberry ice in a cane-brake.

Among other trifles which our very complete
outfit had comprehended was a small steamboat
adapted for the tortuous but necessary navigation of
the Yarra Yarra, of which noble stream, moving
calmly through walls of ti-tree, we commenced to
make the acquaintance. This steamerlet — she was
a very tiny automaton, puffing out of all proportion
to her speed — but the only funnel-bearer — think of
that, Victorians of this high-pressure era ! — had been
sent down by the head of the family the voyage
before, safely bestowed upon the deck of a larger
vessel. " The Movastar was a better boat," I
daresay, but the tiny Firefly bore us and the Lares
and Penates of many other " first families " — in the
sense of priority — safely to terra firma on the north
side of what was then called the " Yarra Basin."
This was an oval-shaped natural enlargement of the
average width of the river, much as a waterhole in
a creek exceeds the ordinary channel. The energetic
Batman and the sturdy Cobbett of the south, Pascoe
Fawkner, had thought it good to set about making
a town, and here we found the bustling Britisher of
the period engaged in building up Melbourne with
might and main. Our leader laid it down at that

4 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

time, as the result of his experience of many lands,
that the new colony, being outside of 36 deg. south
latitude, would not be scourged with droughts as had
been New South Wales from her commencement.
In great measure, and absolutely as regarding the
western portions of Victoria, this prophecy has been
borne out.

Sufficient time had elapsed for the army of
mechanics, then established in Port Phillip, to erect
many weatherboard and a few brick houses. Into
a cottage of the latter construction we were hastily
inducted, pending the finishing of a two-storied
mansion in Flinders Street, not very far from
Prince's Bridge. Bridge was there none in those
days, it is hardly necessary to say ; not even the
humble one with wooden piers that spanned the
stream later, and connected Melbourne people with
the sandy forest of South Yarra, then much despised
for its alleged agricultural inferiority : still there was
a punt. You could get across, but not always when
you wanted. And I recall the incident of Captain
Brunswick Smyth, late of the 50th Regiment, and
the first commandant of mounted police, riding
down to the ferry, from which the guardian was
absent — "sick, or drunk, or suthin " — and, with
military impatience, dashing on board with a brace
of troopers, who pulled the lumbering barge across,
and fastened her to the farther shore.

Large trees at that time studded the green
meadow, which, after the winter rain, was marshy
and reed-covered. There did I shoot, and bear home
with schoolboy pride, a blue crane — the Australian

ion — who, being only wounded, "went near" to

i A.D. 1840 5

pick out one of my eyes, wounding my cheek-bone
with a sudden stab of his closed beak. The lovely
bronze -wing pigeons were plentiful then amid the
wild forest tracks of Newtown, afterwards Colling-
wood. Many times have I and my boy comrades
stood at no great distance from the present populous
suburb and wondered whether we were going straight
for the " settlement," as we then irreverently styled
the wonder-city. The streets of the new-born town
had been " ruled off," as some comic person phrased
it, very straight and wide ; but there had not been
sufficient money as yet available from the somewhat
closely-guarded distant Treasury of Sydney to clear
them from stumps. However, as in most commu-
nities during the speculative stage, any amount was
forthcoming when required for purposes of amusement.
Balls, picnics, races, and dinners were frequent and
fashionable. Driving home from one of the first-
named entertainments, through the lampless streets,
a carriage, piloted by a gallant officer, came to signal
grief against a stump. The ladies were thrown out,
the carriage thrown over, and the charioteer fractured.
Paterfamilias, absent on business, marked his dis-
approval of the expedition by resolutely refraining
from repairing the vehicle. For years after it stood
in the back yard with cracked panels, a monument
of domestic miscalculation.

It must be terribly humiliating to the survivors of
that " first rush " to consider what untold wealth lay
around them in the town and suburban allotments,
which the most guarded investment would have
secured. The famous subdivision in Collins Street,
upon which the present Bank of Australasia now

6 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chai\

stands, was purchased by the Wesleyan denomination
for £70 ! Acres and half-acres in Flinders, Collins,
and Elizabeth Streets were purchased at the first
Government sales held in Sydney at similar and
lower rates. I have heard the late Mr. Jacques, at
that time acting as Crown auctioneer, selling at the
Sydney markets ever so much of Williamstown, at
prices which would cause the heart of the land-dealer
of the present day to palpitate strangely. I can
hear now the old gentleman's full, sonorous voice
rolling out the words, " Allotment so-and-so, parish of
Will-will-rook," the native names being largely and
very properly used. " Villamanatah " and " Maribyr-
nong " occurred, I think, pretty often in the same
series of sales. The invariable increase in prices after
the first sales led naturally to a species of South Sea
stock bubbledom. He who bought to-day — and
men of all classes shared in the powerful excitement
— was so certain of an advance of 25, 50, or cent
per cent, that every one who could command the
wherewithal hastened to the land lottery, where every
ticket was a prize. Speculative eagles in flocks were
gathered around the carcase. Borrowing existed
then, though undeveloped as one of the fine arts
compared to its latest triumphs ; bills, even in that
struggling infancy of banking, were thick in the
air. Successful or prospective sales necessitated
champagne lunches, whereby the empty bottles —
erstwhile filled with that cheerful vintage — accumu-
lated in stacks around the homes and haunts of the
leading operators. The reigning Governor-General,
on a Hying visit to the non-mineral precursor of
Ballarat and BendigO, noted the unparalleled pro-

i A.D. 1840 7

fusion, and, it is said, refused on that account some
request of the self-elected Patres Conscripti of our
Rome in long clothes. Farms, in blocks of forty and
eighty acres, had been marked off above the Yarra
Falls. They had been purchased at prices tending
to be high, as prices ruled then. But they could not
have been really high, for one of them, since pretty
well known as Toorak, for years rented for several
thousands per annum, and possessing a value of
about £1000 each for its eighty acres, was purchased
by an early colonist for less than ^"iooo, all told.
It was subsequently sold by him, under the crushing
pressure of the panic of 1842 and 1843, for £120.

What a different place was the Flemington race-
course, say, when Victor and Sir Charles ran for the
Town Plate — when Romeo's white legs and matchless
shoulder were to be seen thereon — when Jack
Hunter's filly, Hellcat, won the Sir Charles Purse,
furnished by a generous stud patron for the owners
of descendants of that forgotten courser. Fancy the
change to the Cup day with Martini-Henry coming
in ! Where racing springs up, there also do differ-
ences of opinion frequently occur. With respect to
the said victory of Hellcat, then the property of Jack
Hunter, it was objected by a well-known " horse
couper " of the day, known as " Hopping Jack," that
she was no true descendant of Sir Charles. He was
contradicted very flatly, and sufficient proof having
been afforded to the stewards, her owner received the
stakes. Still the mighty mind of John Ewart held
distrust as he ambled home, dangling his "game"
leg on his eel-backed bay horse, the same which
carried him overland from Sydney to Melbourne in

8 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

ten days — six hundred miles. "A sworn horse-
courser," like Blount, was Hopping Jack, and, unlike
Marmion's fast squire, had ridden many a steeple-
chase. In the quickly shifting adventure-scope of
the day it chanced that the two Jacks went to sea,
desiring to revisit Scotia, doubtless for their pecuniary
benefit. A great storm arose, and the homeward-
bound vessel was wrecked. The passengers barely
escaped with their lives, and were forced to return to
Port Phillip. At one period of the disaster there was
little or no hope for the lives of all. As they clung
gloomily to the uplifted deck — fast on a reef —
Hopping Jack approached Mr. Hunter with a grave
and resolved air. All waited to hear his words. In
that solemn hour he proved the exquisite accuracy
of the thought, " The ruling passion strong in death,"
by thus adjuring his turf acquaintance, " Look here,

Mr. Hunter, we shall all be in in twenty

minutes, it can't matter much now. Was Hellcat
really a Sir Charles?" History is silent as to the
reply.

How strange a Melbourne would the picture —
still distinctly photographed on memory's wondrous
"negative" — present to the inhabitant of 1884. A
solitary wood cart is struggling down from the direc-
tion of Brighton along the unmade sandy track,
patiently to await the convenience of the puntman.
Frank Liardet is driving his unicorn omnibus team
from the lonely beach, where now the sailors revel in
many a glittering bar, and the tall sugar-refinery
chimney "lifts its head" and smokes — or, at any
rate, did recently. The squatter's wool -freighted
bullock-teams lumber along the deep ruts of Flinders

i A.D. 1840 9

Lane. John Pascoe Favvkner bustles up and down
the western end, at that time the fashionable part,
of Collins Street. The eastern portion of that street
— now decorated with palatial clubs and treasuries,
and dominated by doctors — was then principally
known as " the way to the Plenty," a rivulet on the
banks of which still abode certain cheerful young
agricultural aristocrats, who had not had time quite
to ruin themselves. Now a whole tribe of blacks —
wondering and frightened, young and old, warriors
and greybeards, women and children — is being driven
along Collins Street by troopers, on their way to the
temporary gaol, there to be incarcerated for real or
fancied violence. The philanthropist may console
himself with the knowledge that they burrowed under
their dungeon slabs and, I think, escaped. If not,
they were released next day.

Mr. Latrobe, successor of Captain Lonsdale, on a
state day — not styled Governor, but his Honour the
Superintendent — is riding towards Batman's Hill on
a crop-eared hog-maned cob, yclept Knocker-
croghery, attired in uniform, escorted by Captain
Smyth and his terrible mounted police, the only
military force of the day. The great plains, the
wide forest-parks, shut closely in the little town on
every side. Countless swans and ducks are disport-
ing themselves in unscared freedom upon the great
West Melbourne marsh. The travel-stained squatter
rides wearily up to the livery stable, as yet unable
to shorten by coach or rail a mile of his journey.

CHAPTER II

THE FAR WEST

It seems only the other day — but surely it must be
a long time ago — that January evening of 1844,
when I camped my cattle near the old burying-
ground at North Melbourne. I was bound for the
Western district, where I proposed to " take up a
run." And towards this pastoral paradise the dawn
saw my " following " winding its way next morning.

A modest drove and slender outfit were mine ;
all that the hard times had spared. Two or three
hundred well-bred cattle, a dray and team with pro-
visions for six months, two stock-horses, one faithful
old servant, one young ditto (unfaithful), ,£1 in my
purse — voila tout. Rather a limited capital to
begin the world with ; but what did I want with
money in those days ? I was a boy, which means
a prince — happy, hopeful, healthy, beyond all latter-
day possibilities, bound on a journey to seek my
fortune. All the fairy-tale conditions were fulfilled.
I had " horse to ride and weapon to wear " — that is,
a 1 2-foot stock-whip by Nangus Jack — clothes, tools,
guns, and ammunition ; a new world around and

chap, ii THE FAR WEST n

beyond ; what could money do for the gentleman-
adventurer burning with anticipation of heroic
exploration ? Such thoughts must have passed
through my brain, inasmuch as I invested 75 per
cent of my cash in the purchase of a cattle dog.
Poor Dora, she barked her last some thirty-five years
agone.

On the next day we crossed the Moonee Ponds
at Flemington, took the Keilor road, and managed
to bustle our mob all the way to the Werribee. A
slightly unfair journey ; but the summer day was
long, and we made the river with the fading light
about eight. I had a reason, too. Here bivouacked
my good old friend the late William Ryrie, of Yering.
He, too, was journeying to the west country with a
large drove of Upper Yarra stores. He had kindly
consented to join forces — an arrangement more to
my advantage than his. So, as his cattle were
drawing into camp, I cheerfully " boxed " mine
therewith, and relieved myself by the act of further
anxiety.

Night watches were duly set, after an evening
meal of a truly luxurious character. I felt at odd
moments as if I would have given all the world for
a doze unrebuked. At last the whole four mortal
hours came to an end. Then I understood, almost
for the first time in my life, what " first-class sleep "
really meant.

At sunrise I awoke much fresher than paint, and
walking to the door of the tent, which held three
stretchers — those of the leader of the party, his
brother Donald, and myself — looked out upon the
glorious far-stretching wild. What a sight was there,

12 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

seen with the eyes of unworn, undoubting youth !
On three sides lay the plains, a dimly verdurous ex-
panse, over which a night mist was lifting itself along
the line of the river. The outline of the Anakie-
You Yangs range was sharply drawn against the
dawn-lighted horizon, while far to the north-east was
seen the forest-clothed summit of Mount Macedon,
and westward gleamed the sea. The calm water of
Corio Bay and the abrupt cone of Station Peak, nearly
in the line of our route, formed an unmistakable yet
picturesque landmark.

The cattle, peacefully grazing, were spread over
the plain, having been released from camp. The
horses were being brought in ; among them I was
quick to distinguish my valuable pair. Old Watts,
the campkeeper, a hoary retainer of Yering — who
gave his name to the affluent of the Yarra so called
— was cooking steaks for breakfast. Everything
was delightfully new, strangely exhilarating, with a
fresh flavour of freedom and adventure.

After breakfast we saddled up, and, mounting our
horses, strolled on after a leisurely fashion with the
cattle. I was riding, as became an Australian, a
four-year-old colt, my own property, and bred in the
family. A grandson of Skeleton and of Satellite, he
was moderately fast and a great stayer. Mr.
Donald Ryrie rode a favourite galloway yclept Dumple
— a choice roadster and clever stock-horse, much
resembling in outline Dandle Dinmont's historic
" powney." He and I were sufficiently near in age
to enjoy discursive conversation during the long,
slightly tedious driving hours, to an extent which
occasionally impaired our usefulness. When in

ii THE FAR WEST 13

argument or narrative we permitted " the tail " to
straggle unreasonably we were sharply recalled to
our duty. Our kind-hearted choleric leader then
adopted language akin to that in which the ruffled
M.F.H. exhorts the erring horsemen of his field.

Ah me, what pleasant days were those ! A little
warm, even hot, doubtless. But we could take off
our coats without fear of Mrs. Grundy. There was
plenty of grass. " Travelling " was an honourable
and recognised occupation in those Arcadian times.
" Purchased land " was an unknown quantity.
Droughts were disbelieved in, and popularly supposed
to belong exclusively to the " Sydney side." The
horses were fresh, the stages were moderate, and
when a halt was called at sundown the cattle soon
lay contentedly down in the soft, thick grass. The
camp fires were lighted, and another pleasant, hope-
ful day was succeeded by a restful yet romantic night.

So we fared on past the Little River and Fyans'
Ford, where a certain red cow of mine was nearly
drowned, and had to be left behind ; then to Beale's,
on the Barwon ; thence to Colac, for we had decided
to take the inner road and not to go by " the French-
man's," or " Cressy," then represented solely by Mon-
sieur (and Madame) Duverney's Inn, as it was then
called.

Apropos of Fyans' Ford, there was an inn as we
passed up. When returning I met with an adventure
nearly similar to that in " She Stoops to Conquer."
I left the station for Melbourne in the December
following, having earned a Christmas at home.
When I arrived at Geelong I turned out early next
morning, and rode to Fyans' Ford to see if I could

14 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

find " tale or tidings " of the red cow left behind, as
before mentioned. How honest were nearly all men
in those days ! I did hear of her, and, having dis-
covered her whereabouts, I went to the old house to
breakfast, preparatory to riding to Heidelberg, fifty-
seven miles all told, that night.

Dismounting at the stable door, I gave my mare
to the groom, with a brisk injunction as to a good
feed, and passed into the house. In the parlour was
a maid-servant laying the breakfast. I stood before
the fireplace in an easy attitude, and demanded when
breakfast would be ready.

"In about half an hour, sir." I noticed a slightly
surprised air.

" Can't you get it a little sooner, Mary ? " I said,
guessing at her name with the affability of a tavern
guest of fashion and substance.

" I don't know, sir," she made answer meekly.

" Come, Mary," I said, " surely you could manage
something in less time ? I have a long way to ride
to-day."

She smiled, and was about to reply, when a door
opened, and a middle-aged personage, with full mili-
tary whiskers, and an air of authority, looked in.

" I don't think I have the pleasure of knowing
you, sir," he stated, with a certain dignity.

" No," I said ; " no ! I think not. Not been here
since last year." (I did not particularly see the
necessity either.) I was cool and cheerful, and it
struck me that, for an innkeeper, he was over-punc-
tilious.

" This is no inn, sir," he said, with increased
sternness.

ii THE FAR WEST 15

In a moment my position flashed upon me. I
then remembered I had not noticed the sign as I rode
up. The house and grounds, large and extensive,
had been occupied by a private family. Nothing
very uncommon about that. So here had I been
ordering my horse to be fed, and lecturing the
parlour-maid, all the while in a strange gentleman's
abode.

I could not help laughing, but immediately pro-
ceeded to apologise fully and formally, at the same
time pointing out that the place had been an inn
when I last saw it. Hence my mistake, which I
sincerely regretted. I bowed, and made for the
door.

My host's visage relaxed. " Come," he said, " I
see how it all happened. But you must not lose

your breakfast for all that. Mrs. will be ready

directly, and my daughter. I trust you will give us
the pleasure of your company."

" All's well that ends well." I was introduced to
the ladies of the house, who made themselves agree-
able. There was a good laugh over my invasion of
the parlour and Mary's astonishment. I breakfasted
with appetite. We parted cordially. And, as my
mare carried me to Heidelberg that night without
a sign of distress, she probably had breakfasted well
also.

I recollect — how well ! — the night I reached
Lake Colac. Mr. Hugh Murray had, I think, the
only station upon it, and the Messrs. Dennis were
a short distance on the hither side. The Messrs.
Robertson farther on. The cattle had rather a long
day without water. Not quite so bad as the Old

1 6 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

Man Plain, but a good stretch. We did not " make "
the lake until after dark. How they all rushed in !
It was shallow, and sound as to bottom. We con-
cluded to let them alone, not believing that they
would wander far through such good feed before day.
So we had our supper cheerfully, and turned in.
We could hear them splashing about in the water,
drinking exhaustively, and finally returning in division.
At daylight, the first man up (not the writer) descried
them comfortably camped, nearly all down within a
few hundred yards.

How far is the Parin Yallock ? It is many a
year since I saw the Stony Rises, as we somewhat
unscientifically called the volcanic trap dykes and
lava outflows, now riven into boulders and scoria
masses, yet clothed with richest grass and herbage,
which surround for many miles the craters of Noorat,
" The Sisters " — Leura and Porndon. Well, we took
it very easily along that pastoral Eden, the garden
of Australia, where dwelt pastoral man before the
Fall, ere he was driven forth into far sun-scorched
drought -accursed wilds to earn his bread by the
sweat of his brain, and to bear the heart-sickness
that comes of hope long deferred — the deadly
despair that is born of long years of waiting for
slow remorseless ruin. Ha ! how have we skipped
over half- a -century, more or less! Bless you,
nobody was ruined in those golden days, because
there was no credit. Riverina was almost as much
a terra incognita as Borneo — much more the Lower
Macquaric and the Upper Bogan. But I must get
back to Colac, and feel the thick kangaroo grass
under my feet, quite as thick as an English meadow

ii THE FAR WEST 17

(I have been there since, too), as Donald and I led
our horses. He had a rein which slipped out at
the cheek, contrived on purpose for his horse, and
the better sustentation of him, Dumple.

We leave Captain Fyans' station on our right.
He was the Crown Lands Commissioner in those
days, and had the sense to take up a small, but
very choice, bit of the " waste lands of the Crown "
on his own account. There abide the " FF " cattle
to this day, if the Messrs. Robertson have not deposed
them in favour of sheep, or the rabbits eaten them
out of house and home.

We pass the police station, another rich pasture
reserved for the mounted police troopers and their
chargers. There old Hatsell Garrard dwelt for a
season, with his fresh-coloured English yeoman face,
his pleasant, racy talk, and unerring judgment in
horse-flesh. Did not Cornborough, that grand old
son of Tramp, emigrate to Victoria under his auspices?
I need say no more.

Then we come to Scott and Richardson's, the
Parin Yallock station proper. Both good fellows.
The latter might aver with Ralph Leigh —

Those were the days when my beard was black,

and the good steed Damper was not much averse to
" a stiff top rail," though carrying a rider considerably
over six feet, and a welter weight to boot. Between
the station and the crossing-place — difficult and
dangerous it was, too, even for horsemen — we
camped. It came on to rain. It was our only
unpleasant night (except one when we missed the
drays and had no supper. I didn't smoke then and

C

i8 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chai-.

oh ! how hungry I was). The cattle were uneasy,
and " ringed " all night. Next morning the camp
was like a circus on a large scale. The soil is rich
and black. I have seen no mud to speak of for the
last ten years. Even the mud in those parts was of
a superior description.

Next day we faced the Parin Yallock Creek and
its malign ford — save the mark ! One dray was
bogged ; several head of cattle ; my colt went down
tail first, and nearly " turned turtle," but eventually
the corps dartnie got safely over to the sound but
rugged stony rises. Crossing them, we reached the
broad rich flats around the lovely lake of Purrumbcct.

It was late when we got there, the cattle having
been hustled and bustled to get out of the labyrinthine
stony rises before dark ; and the day turning out
warm after the rain, they were inclined to drink
heartily. To this intent they ran violently into
the lake, I don't know how many fathoms deep, and
shelving abruptly. All the leaders were out of their
depth at once, and swam about with a surprised air.
However, the beach was hard and smooth, so back
they came, in good trim to set to at the luxuriant
herbage which borders the lake shore. I wonder
what the Messrs. Manifold would think now of a
thousand head ot cattle coming ravaging up close to
the house, and walking into their clover and rye-
grass, without saying " by your leave," much less
" reporting."

When the day broke how lovely the landscape
seemed. The rugged lava country that we had left
behind had given place to immense meadows and
grassy slopes, thinly timbered with handsome black-

ii THE FAR WEST 19

wood trees. The Lake Purrumbeet was the great
central feature — a noble sheet of water, with sloping
green banks, and endless depth of the fresh pure
element. On the western bank was built a comfort-
able cottage, where flowers and fruit trees by their
unusual luxuriance bore testimony to the richness
of the deep black alluvial.

We did a "lazyally" sort of day — the cattle
knee -deep in grass, every one taking it extremely
easy. Leura, another volcano out of work, surrounded
by wonderful greenery, wherein the station cattle lay
about, looking like prize-winners that had strayed
from a show-yard, was passed about mid-day. Next
morning saw us at Mr. Neil Black's Basin Bank
station. Here we saw the heifers of the NB herd.
They were " tailed " or herded, as was the fashion in
those days, and a fine well-grown, well-bred lot they
were. The overseer was either Donald or Angus
"to be sure whateffer," one of a draft of stalwart
Highlanders which Mr. Black used to import annually.
Very desirable colonists they were, and as soon as
they " got the English," a matter of some difficulty
at the outset, they commenced to save money at a
noticeable rate. A fair-sized section of the Western
district is now populated by these Glenormiston
clansmen and their descendants, and no man was
better served than their worthy chief — Neil of
that ilk.

From Basin Bank we drove towards the late
Mr. William Hamilton's Yallock station, where we
abode one night. Here, or at the next stage, the
trail was not so plain. I have a reminiscence of our
having camped one night at a spot not intended for

20 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

such a halt, and losing our supper in consequence.
No doubt we made up for it at breakfast.

Now we had come to the end of the genuine
Colac country. What we were approaching was a
good land, richly grassed, and, agriculturally speaking,
perhaps superior to the other. But I shall always
consider the sub-district that I have just described,
including Messrs. Black's, Robertson's, Manifold's,
and one or two other properties, having regard to
soil, climate, pasture, and distance from a metropolis,
as the very choicest area to be found in the whole
Australian continent.

A kw more days' easy travelling took us nearly
to our journey's end. We reached the bank of the
Merai, at Grasmere, the head station of the Messrs.
Bolden, and there, not many miles from the site of
the flourishing township of Warrnambool, we drafted
our respective cattle, and went different ways — Mr.
Ryric's to his run, not far from Tower Hill, and mine
to appropriate some unused country between the
Merai and the sea.

Here I camped for about six months, and a right
joyous time it was in that " kingdom by the sea."
I remember riding down to the shore one bright
day, just below where Warrnambool now stands.
No trace of man or habitation was there, " nor roof
nor latched door." As I rode over the sand hummock
which bordered the beach, a draft of out-lying cattle,
basking in the sun on the farther side, rose and
galloped off. All else was silent and tenantless as
before the days of Cook.

I took up my abode provisionally upon the bank
of the Merai, which, near the mouth, was a broad

ii THE FAR WEST 21

and imposing stream, and turned out my herd. My
stockman and I spent our days in " going round "
the cattle ; shooting and kangaroo-hunting in odd
times — recreation to which he, as an ex-poacher of
considerable experience, took very kindly. The
pied goose, here in large flocks, with duck, teal,
pigeons, and an occasional wild turkey, were our
chief sport and sustenance.

On the opposite side of the river was the first
cultivated area in the Port Fairy district, then known
as Campbell's farm. An old colonial whaling com-
pany had their headquarters at the Port, and Captain
Campbell, a stalwart Highlander long known as
Port Fairy Campbell, had utilised his spare crews
in the early days, and tested the richness of that
famous tract of fertile land now known as the
Farnham Survey.

We were not without practical demonstration of
the bounty of the soil. One evening I was astonished
to see splendid mealy potatoes served up with the
accustomed corned beef.

" Where did you get these, Mrs. Burge ? " said I
to the stockman's wife.

" From the lubras," rather consciously ; " I gave
them beef in exchange."

" A very fair one," but a light suddenly striking
upon my mental vision, — " Where do the lubras get
them from ? They toil not, neither do they spin ! "

" I don't know for certain, sir," she answered,
looking down, " but they're digging the potato
crop, I believe, at Campbell's farm." Here was
foreshadowed the enormous Warrnambool export,
that immense intercolonial potato trade, which has

22 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap, ii

latterly assumed such proportions, and which in-
vades even this far north-western corner of New
South Wales. What glorious times I had, gun in
hand, or with our three famous kangaroo dogs,
slaying the swift marsupial. In those days he
was tolerated and rather admired, no one imagining
that he would be, a couple of generations later, a
scourge and an oppressor, eating the sparse herbage
of the overstocked squatter, and being classed as a
" noxious animal," with a price actually put on his
head by utilitarian legislators.

CHAPTER III

THE DEATH OF VIOLET

THOUGH kangaroo were plentiful, they were not so
overwhelming in number as they have since become.
Joe Burge and I had many a day's good sport
together on foot. Like Mr. Sawyer and other
sensible people, we often saved our horses by using
our own legs. For the dogs, Chase was a rough-
haired Scotch deerhound, not quite pure, yet had she
great speed and courage. Nothing daunted her. I
saw her once jump off a dray, where she was in
hospital with a broken leg (it had been smashed
by the kick of an emu), and hobble off after a
sudden-appearing kangaroo. She was said to have
killed a dingo at ten months old — no trifling feat.

Nero and Violet were brother and sister. They
were smooth-haired greyhounds — the ordinary kan-
garoo dog of the colonist — very fast ; and from a
distant cross of " bull " had inherited an utter
fearlessness of disposition, which was rather against
them, as the sequel will show.

Violet was so fast that she could catch the brush
kangaroo (the wallaby) within sight. We rarely had

24 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

occasion to search if they started close to our feet,
and the largest and fiercest " old man " forester did
not seem to be too heavy weight for her. When he
stood at bay she would fly in at the throat, instead
of looking out for a side chance. In consequence
she was awfully cut up many times when a more
cunning dog would have escaped scatheless.

One afternoon Joe and I had taken a longer
round than usual on foot, and were returning by the
beach, when we heard Violet's bark a long way in
front. We knew then that she had " stuck up " or
brought to bay a large forester. If middle-sized she
would have killed him ; in that case running mute.
So it was an " old man " large enough to stand and
fight.

" We'd better get on, sir," said Joe ; " the poor
slut'll be cut to ribbons. She's a plucky little fool,
and don't know how to save herself."

On we went, both running our best. We were
in decent wind, but it was a couple of miles before
we reached " hound and quarry." Some time had
elapsed, and the fight had been many times renewed.
When we got up the grassy spot was trampled all
around, and in more than one place were deep red
stains. Both animals were dreadfully exhausted.
The great marsupial — the height of a tall man
when he raised himself on his haunches — was
covered with blood from the throat and breast,
his haunches were deeply pierced by the dog's
sharp fangs, but his terrible claws had inflicted
some frightful gashes adown Violet's chest and
flanks. As she feebly circled round him, barking
hoarsely, she staggered with weakness ; but her

in THE DEATH OF VIOLET 25

eye was bright and keen — there was not a shade
of surrender about her.

Joe rushed in at once and struck the old man
full between the eyes with a heavy stick. He fell
prone, and lay like a log. Violet staggered to his
throat, which she seized, but, having not another
grain of strength, fell alongside of him, panting
and sobbing until her whole frame shook convulsed.
I never saw a dog suffer so much from over-exertion.
There was water near, and we carried her to it and
bathed her head and neck. She had three terrible
gashes, the blood from which we could not manage
to stanch. Joe was genuinely affected. The tears
came into his eyes as he looked on the suffering
creature. " Poor little slut ! " he said ; " I'm doubtful
it's her last hunt. Pity we hadn't took the horses,
we should ha' bin up sooner, and saved that old
savage from ' mercy-creeing ' of her. Anyhow, I'll
carry her home and see what the missis can do
for her."

He did so. I walking sadly behind, the dumb
brute looking up at him with grateful eyes, and from
time to time licking his hand. She was nursed by
Mrs. Burge like a child. We tried all our simple
remedies, sewed up the gaping wounds, and even
went to the length of a tonic, suited to her
condition. But it was of no use. The loss of
blood and consequent exhaustion had been too
great. Violet died that night, and for the next
few days a gloom fell over our little household as
at the death of a friend.

A curious spot, in some respects, was that which
I had pitched on — full of interest and variety. The

26 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

river ran in front of our hut-door, losing itself in wide
marshes that marked its entrance to the sea. It was
a capital natural paddock, as at a distance of five or
six miles the River Hopkins ran parallel to it towards
the sea. Neither river was fordable, except at certain
points, easily protected. Across the upper portion
was a fence, running from river to river, and some
ten miles from the sea, put up by the Messrs.
Bolden, when this was one of their extensive
series of runs, and, indeed, known as the bullock
paddock.

Warrnambool, as I before stated, was as yet
unborn. There was not an allotment marked or
sold, a hut built, a sod turned. No sound in
those days broke upon the ear but the ceaseless
surge-music ; no sight met the eye but the endless
forest, the sand-hills, and the long, bright plain of
the Pacific Ocean, calm for the most part, but
lashed to madness in winter by furious south-
easterly gales. Its jetties and warehouses, mayor
and municipal council, villas and cottages, fields
and gardens, were still in the future. Nought to be
seen but the sand-dunes and surges; little to be
heard save the sea-bird's cry. But at the old
whaling station of Port Fairy the town of Belfast
— so named by the late Mr. James Atkinson —
had arisen, and its white limestone walls afforded
a pleasing contrast to the surrounding forest. It
lay between the mouth of the River Moyne and
the sea. An open roadstead, suspiciously garnished
with wrecks, told a talc of the harbour which afforded
a larger element of truth than invitation.

Chief among the pioneers were Messrs. John

in THE DEATH OF VIOLET 27

Griffiths and Co., who had, for many years, main-
tained extensive whaling stations on the coast
between Port Fairy and Portland.

Captain Campbell, then and long after widely
known as Port Fairy Campbell, was their principal
superintendent of fleets and fisheries, farms and
stores. He, in the pre-land-sale days, like John
Mostyn, " bare rule over all that land " ; and,
moreover, if legends are true, " on those who
misliked him he laid strong hand." His sway
was for many a league of sea and shore un-
questioned, and no " leading case " will carry down
his memory to budding barristers. He never,
however, relinquished his faith in prompt personal
redress, and years aftenvards, when harbour-master
in Hobson's Bay, regretted to me that the etiquette
of the civil service forbade him to convince a
contumacious shipmaster by the simple whaling
argument. Among his lieutenants, John and
Charles Mills held the highest traditional rank.
The brothers, natives of Tasmania, were splendid
men physically, and as sailors no bolder or better
hands ever trod plank or handled oar.

Years afterwards I made one of a crowd assembled
on the Port Fairy beach to watch a vessel encounter-
ing at her anchors the fury of a south-easterly gale.
A wild morning, I trow ; the sky red-gloomy with
storm-clouds ; the fierce tempest beating down the
crests of the leaping eager billows ; the air full of a
concentrated wrath which prevented all sounds save
its own from being audible.

It was impossible that the barque could ride
the gale out, and, in anticipation, the skipper

28 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

had all his sails bent and merely made fast with
spun-yarn.

The supreme moment came. After a hurricane-
blast which transcended all former air-madness, we
saw the vessel quit her position. A hundred voices
shouted, " Her anchors are gone ! " In an instant,
as it seemed to us, every sail was unfurled, and she
swung round, with her stem towards the white line
of ravening breakers. We had before us the unusual
spectacle of a ship with every stitch of canvas set
going before the wind, and such a wind, dead on to
a lee shore.

Proudly and swift she came gallantly on, while
we watched, half-breathless, to see her strike. A
sudden pause, a total arrest. The good ship
struggled for a space, like a sentient creature in
the toils, then broached to, and the wild, triumphant
waves broke over her from stem to stern.

But the situation had been foreseen. A dozen
willing hands dragged out one of the whaleboats,
and what sea ever ran which a whaleboat could not
live in ? She was safely, though with desperate
exertion, launched, and we soon watched her rising
and falling amid the tremendous rollers that came
thundering in. At her stern was the tall form of
Charley Mills standing unmoved with a 1 6-foot
steer oar in his strong grasp, one of the grandest
exhibitions of human strength, skill, and courage
that eyes ever looked on.

The skipper had carried out his immediate
purpose successfully. He had run his vessel in
comparatively close, by charging the beach at the
pace which he had put on ; and in successive trips

in THE DEATH OF VIOLET 29

of the whaleboat the crew were landed in safety.
And though the barque's " ribs and trucks " added
another unprepossessing feature to Port Fairy
harbour, no greater loss occurred.

Captain John Mills, afterwards harbour -master
of the port of Belfast, and long a master mariner in
the trade between Belfast and Sydney, was the
elder of these two brothers. In his way, also, a
grand personage. Not quite so tall as his younger
brother, he was fully six feet in height, powerfully
built, and a very handsome man to boot. There
was an expression of calm courage about his face
and general bearing which always reminded one of
a lion. He had had, doubtless, as a whaler and
voyager to New Zealand and the islands, scores of
hairbreadth escapes. After such a stormy life it
must have been a wondrous change to settle down,
as he did, quietly for the rest of his days in the
little village as harbour-master. He is gone to his
rest, I think, as well as the grand, stalwart boat-
steerer. They will always live in men's minds, I
doubt not, on the west coast of Victoria, among the
heroes of the storied past. I remember once,
indeed, at a great public dinner, when a popular
squatter, whose health had been drunk, declared
with post-prandial fervour that he regarded all the
inhabitants of old Port Fairy as his brothers.
During a lull in the cheering, a humorous mercan-
tile celebrity placed his hand on Charles Mills's
shoulder, and cried aloud, " This is my brother
Charley" — a practical application which brought
down the house.

Ah ! those were indeed the good old days.

3o OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

How free and fresh was the ocean's breath as one
looked westward over the limitless Pacific, where
nothing broke the line of vision nearer than Lady
Julia Percy Island! How green was the turf!
How blue the sky ! How strong and unquestioning
was friendship ! How divine was love " in that lost
land, in that lost clime " — in the realm of poesy and
the kingdom of youth !

Port Fairy certainly had the start in life, and
Belfast was, as I have narrated, a townlet before an
acre of land was sold in Warrnambool. But it
turned out that Warrnambool was situated in nearer
vicinity to the wonderfully rich lands of Farnham
and Purnim. The great wheat and potato yields
began to affect shipments, and at this day I rather
fancy nearly all the mercantile prosperity has taken
lodgings with Warrnambool, while the broad, lime-
stone-metalled streets of Belfast are less lively than
they were wont to be a score of years agone.

To the Johnny Griffiths dynasty succeeded that
of Mr. John Cox, the younger, of Clarendon,
Tasmania, a worthy scion of a family which had
furnished, perhaps, more pattern country gentlemen
to Australia than any other. He had quitted
Tasmania for the western portion of the new colony,
which promised wider scope for energy and enter-
prise. His earlier investments were a trading
station at Port Fairy, the purchase of such town
allotments and buildings as seemed to him likely
bargains, and the first occupation of the Mount
Rouse station, long afterwards known as perhaps
the choicest, richest run of a crack district.

Mr. Cox, however, relinquished his not wholly

in THE DEATH OF VIOLET 31

congenial mercantile task to the late Mr. William
Rutledge, of Farnham Park, whose commercial
talent and business energy soon made quite another
place of Belfast. Mr. Cox from that time forth
devoted himself wholly to pastoral pursuits, and
having been unhandsomely evicted from Mount
Rouse, which the Governor, without much practical
wisdom, wished to turn into an aboriginal reserva-
tion, he retired to Mount Napier, a run only second
in extent and quality.

I may mention that some years after, the
Government, finding that the aboriginal protectorate
system merely served to localise gangs of lazy and
mischievous savages without any sort of benefit to
themselves or others, revoked the reserve. But
instead of handing back the land to those from
whom it had been taken unjustly, they had the
meanness to let it by tender. This run of Mount
Rouse brought a rental of £900 per annum, a price
altogether unprecedented in the history of pastoral
leases.

After I had been a dweller on the banks of the
Merai for a few months, I resolved to move farther
westward, where there was country to spare and a
more favourable opportunity of getting an extensive
run than in my present picturesque but restricted
locality. I was grieved to lose my pretty and
pleasant home just as I had begun to get attached
to it, but I judged rightly that to the westward lay
the more profitable pastures, and I adhered to my
resolution.

A few days' muster saw us once more on the
road. Our herd was increased and complicated by

32 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap, ill

the presence of many small calves, of ages varying
from a week to three months. These tender
travellers would have much retarded our march
under other circumstances. But we had not, as
luck would have it, much more than fifty miles to
move, and for that short distance we could afford
to travel easily, and give time to the weaker ones.
All our worldly goods were packed upon the dray,
which, as before, sufficed to carry them.

CHAPTER IV

DUNMORE

By this time the winter rains had commenced to
fall. The wild weather of the western coast, with
fierce gales from the south-east, and driving storms
of sleet, showed clearly that " the year had turned."
The roads were knee-deep in mud, the creeks full,
the nights long and cold. However, grass was
plentiful, and

Little cared we for wind or weather,
When Youth and I lived " there " together.

So away. Vogue la galcre. The dray, with Joe
Burge and his wife, and Chase, the deerhound, went
on ahead, while I, with Mr. Cunningham, a new
companion, who had dwelt in those parts before my
arrival, was to follow a day or two later with the
herd.

I had made a small exploring expedition a short
time before in company with an old stockman ; he,
for a consideration, had guided me to a tract of
unoccupied country. And to this new territory our
migration was now tending. This experienced
stock-rider — "an old hand from the Sydney side,"

D

34 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

as such men were then called in Victoria — was a
great character, and a most original personage. He
accompanied the dray, so that all might be in
readiness for our arrival. Not that much could be
done. But my all-accomplished chief servitor, the
most inventive and energetic pioneer possible, would
be sure to make some " improvements " even in the
short interval before we arrived.

Our first day's journey was most difficult. The
cattle were loath to leave the spot to which they had
become accustomed, and were troublesome to drive.
However, with two good stock-whips, and the aid
of Dora the cattle-dog, we got along, and reached
Rosebrook, on the Moyne, close to Belfast. Mr.
Roderick Urquhart, as manager for Mr. James
Atkinson, was then in charge. He received us
most hospitably. The cattle were put into the
stock-yard for the night. My companion rode on
to town, intending to rejoin me early in the morning.

One may judge of the difficulty in " locating "
tenants upon agricultural land in those early days
from the fact that Mr. Urquhart was then supplying
the first farmers on the Belfast survey with rations.
For the first year or two this plan was pursued ;
after that they were able, doubtless, to keep them-
selves and pay the moderate rent under which they
sat. Not that the Port Fairy " survey " was so fertile
as that of Farnham Park — much of it was wet and
undrained, much stony, and but fit for pasture ; but
it comprehended the greater part of the town of
Belfast, and ,£5000 would not be considered dear
now for 5000 acres, chiefly of first-class pasture
land, comprising, besides a seaport town, an exhaust-

iv DUNMORE 35

less quarry of limestone, a partially navigable river,
and a harbour.

I slept ill that night, oppressed by my responsi-
bilities. At midnight I heard the continuous lowing,
or " roaring " in stock-riders' vernacular, which de-
noted the escape of my cattle from the yard.
Dressing hastily, I stumbled in pitch darkness
through the knee -deep mud. It was even as I
feared — the rails were down, trampled in the mud ;
the cattle were out and away. My anxiety was
great. The paddock was insecure. If they got
out of it there was endless re-mustering, delay, and
perhaps loss.

I could do nothing on foot. I heard the uneasy
brutes trampling and bellowing in all directions. I
went to bed sad at heart, and, like St. Paul's crew
at Malta, " wished for the dawn."

With the earliest streak of light I caught my
horse, and galloped round the paddock without a
sight of the missing animals. In despair I turned
towards the shore of the large salt-water lagoon
which made one side of the enclosure. In the grey
light I fancied I saw a dark mass at the end of a
cape, which stretched far into it. I rode for it at
full speed, and discovered my lost " stock-in-trade "
all lying down in the long marshy grass. They
had struck out straight for their last known place of
abode, but had been blocked by the deep water and
the unknown sea — as doubtless the lagoon appeared
to them in the darkness.

Shortly after breakfast we resumed our journey,
and made St. Kitts, a cattle station some ten or
twelve miles on the western side of Belfast. The

36 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

Messrs. Aplin were there, having taken it up a year
before. The stock-yard was more substantial, as
became a cattle station. Our hosts were cultured
and refined people, not long from England ; like
myself, enthusiastic about pastoral pleasures and
profits. All our work lay ahead. How bright was
the outlook ! how dim and distant the shoals and
quicksands of life's sea ! We sat long into the
night, talking a good deal of shop, not wholly
unmingled with higher topics. I remember we
decided that cattle stations were to improve in
value, and ultimately lead to a competence. How
little could we foresee that the elder brother was to
die as resident magistrate at Somerset — an unborn
town in an unknown colony — and the younger,
after nearly thirty years' unsuccessful gold-mining,
from Suttor's Mill to Hokitiki, was to make a
fortune in tin at Stanthorpe ! That the writer —
bah ! " Fate's dark web unfolded, lying," did not
keep him from the soundest sleep that night ; and
we again made a successful morning start.

The start was good, but the day was discouraging.
The cattle were safe enough in the new yard, though
rather bedraggled after twelve hours of mud up to
their knees. However, there was water enough
where they were going to wash them up to the
horns, and the grass was magnificent. The rain
came down in a way that was oppressive to our
spirits. The sky was murky ; the air chilling.
Our whips soon became sodden and ineffective.
My companion had a bad cold, which deprived him
of all of his voice and most of his temper. The dog
Dora would hardly bark. Worse than all, the track

iv DUNMORE 37

was difficult to find. We drove hard for hours,
doubting much whether we had not lost our way.
My comrade was sure of it. And

It was about the filthy close
Of a most disgusting day,

as a somewhat irreverent poetaster hath it, when we
disputed in the gathering gloom as to whether or
not we were miles distant from Dunmore — our port
of refuge — or had really hit off the right track.
My friend, in hoarse boding tones, commenced to
speculate as to how we should pass the night under
a steady rainfall, and how many miles off, in different
directions, the cattle would be by morning. My
answer was simple but effective — " There's the horse-
paddock ! " It was even so. Straining my eyes, I
had caught sight through the timber of a two-railed
sapling fence. It was enough. Paddocks were not
then five miles square, and as likely to be twenty
miles from the homestead as one. Dear labour and
limited credit militated against reckless outlay in
posts and rails. A ioo-acre enclosure for horses
and working bullocks was all that was then deemed
necessary. To see the paddock was to see the
house.

A considerable " revulsion of feeling " took place
with both of us as we slogged the tired cattle round
the fence and came in view of the old Dunmore
homestead, then considered one of the best improved
in the district. To be sure, it would not make much
show now beside Burrabogie or Groongal, let alone
Ercildoune or Trawalla, and a few others in the
west. But then some of the shepherd kings thought

38 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

it no dishonour to sleep in a watch-box for a month
at a time, and a slab gunyah with a fold of hurdles
was held to be sufficient improvement for a medium
sheep station. At Dunmore there were three sub-
stantial slab huts with huge stone chimneys, a pisi-
work dairy, a loose-box for Traveller, the son of
Camerton, as well as a large milking-yard and cow-
shed. A great dam across the River Shaw provided
an ornamental sheet of water.

The season was, as I have stated, verging on
midwinter. The day was wet. The drove of
milkers passing and repassing had converted the
ground outside of the huts, which were protected by
the paddock fence, into a sea of mud, depth from
one foot to two feet. Through this we approached
the yard. If I live to be a hundred I shall never
forget the sight which now met my astonished eyes.
A gentleman emerged from the principal building in
conspicuously clean raiment, having apparently just
arrayed himself for the evening meal. He proceeded
calmly to wade through the mud-ocean until he
reached the yard, where he took down the clay-
beplastered rails, leaving the gate open for our cattle.
I declare I nearly fainted with grateful emotion at
this combination of self-sacrifice with the loftiest
ideal of hospitality. We had never met before
either ; but long years of after-friendship with James
Irvine only enabled me to perceive that it was the
natural outcome of a generous nature and a heart
loyal to every impulse of gentle blood.

Another night's mud for the poor cattle. But I
reflected that the next day would see them enfran-
chised, and on their ,pwn " run." So, dismissing the

iv DUN MO RE 39

subject from my mind, I followed my chivalrous host
to the guests' hut — a snug, separate building, where
we made our simple toilettes with great comfort and
satisfaction. After some cautious walking on a
raised pathway we gained the " house," where I was
introduced to Messrs. Campbell and Macknight — for
the firm was a triumvirate.

Dwelling in a drought-afflicted district across the
border, where for months the milk question had
been in abeyance, or feebly propped up by the
imported Swiss product, and where butter is not,
how it refreshes one to recall the great jug of cream
which graced that comfortable board, the pats of
fresh butter, the alluring short-cake, the baronial
sirloin. How we feasted first. How we talked
round the glowing log-piled fire afterwards. How
we slept under piles of blankets till sunrise.

Mrs. Teviot, the housekeeper, peerless old Scottish
dame that she was (has not Henry Kingsley im-
mortalised her ?) ; for how many a year did she
provide for the comforts of host and guest unap-
proachably, unimpeachably. How indelibly is that
evening imprinted on my memory. Marked with a
white stone in life's not all-cheerful record. On
that evening was commenced a friendship that only
closed with life, and which knew for the whole of its
duration neither cloud nor misgiving. If a man's
future is ever determined by the character of his
associates and surroundings at a critical period of
life, my vicinity to Dunmore must have powerfully
influenced mine. In close, almost daily, association
with men of high principle, great energy, early
culture, and refined habits, I could not fail to gain

40 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap, iv

signal benefit, to imbibe elevated ideas, to share
broad and ennobling ideas of colonisation.

As soon as we could see next morning the cattle
were let out and " tailed " on the thick, rich pastur-
age, which surrounded every homestead in those
good old days. After breakfast I set out to find
my station ; that is, the exact spot where it had
pleased my retainers to camp. I found them about
seven miles westward of Dunmore, on a cape of
lightly -timbered land which ran into the great
Eumeralla marsh ; a corresponding point of the lava
country, popularly known as The Rocks, jutted out
to meet it. On this was a circular pond -like
depression, where old Tom, my venerable guide and
explorer, had in a time of drought once seen a dingo
drinking. He had christened it the Native Dog
Hole — a name which it bears to this day. And at
the Doghole-point had my man Joe Burge com-
menced to fell timber for a brush-yard, put up the
walls of a sod hut, unpacked such articles as would
not suffer from weather, and generally commenced
the first act of homestead occupation. I was greeted
with enthusiasm. And as Old Tom the stock-rider
was at once despatched to Dunmore to bring over
the cattle, with Mr. Cunningham, my friend and
travelling companion, I hobbled out my charger and
proceeded to inspect my newly-acquired territory.

CHAPTER V

SQUATTLESEA MERE

Pride and successful ambition swelled my breast
on that first morning as I looked round on my run.
My run ! my own station ! How fine a sound it
had, and how fine a thing it was that I should have
the sole occupancy — almost ownership — of about
50,000 acres of " wood and wold," mere and marsh-
land, hill and dale. It was all my own — after a
fashion — that is, I had but to receive my squatting
license, under the hand of the Governor of the
Australias, for which I paid ten pounds, and no
white man could in any way disturb, harass, or
dispossess me. I have that first license yet, signed
by Sir Charles Fitzroy, the Governor-General. It
was a valuable document in good earnest, and many
latter-day pastoralists with a " Thursday to Thurs-
day " tenure would be truly glad to have such
another. There were no free-selectors in those days.
No one could buy land except at auction when once
the special surveys had been abrogated. There
were no travelling reserves, or water reserves, or
gold-fields, or mineral licenses, or miners' rights, or

42 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

any of the new-fangled contrivances for letting the
same land to half a dozen people at one and the
same time.

There was nothing which some people would con-
sider to be romantic or picturesque in the scenery on
which I gazed. But the " light which never was
on sea or shore" was there, to shed a celestial glory
over the untilled, unfenced, half- unknown waste.
Westward stretched the great marshes, through which
the Eumeralla flowed, if, indeed, that partially sub-
terranean stream could be said to run or flow any-
where. Northward lay the lava -bestrewn country
known as the Mount Eeles rocks, a mass of cooled
and cracked lava now matted with a high thick
sward of kangaroo grass, but so rough and sharp
were the piles and plateaux of scoria that it was
dangerous to ride a horse over it. For years after
we preferred to work it on foot with the aid of dogs.

On the south lay open slopes and low hills, with
flats between. On these last grew the beautiful
umbrageous blackwood, or native hickory, one of the
handsomest trees in Australia. At the back were
again large marshes, with heathy flats and more
thickly-timbered forests. Over all was a wonderful
sward of grass, luxuriant and green at the time I
speak of, and quite sufficient, as I thought, for the
sustenance of two or three thousand head of mixed
cattle.

There were no great elevations to be seen. It
was one of the "low countries" in a literal sense.
The only hill in view was that of Mount Eeles, which
we could see rising amid the lava levels a few miles
to the north-west. The marshes were for the most

v SQUATTLESEA MERE 43

part free from timber. But a curious formation of
" islands," as the stock-rider called them, prevailed,
which tended much to the variety and beauty of the
landscape.

These were isolated areas, of from ten to one
hundred acres, raised slightly above the ordinary
winter level of the marshes. The soil on these
" islands " was exceptionally good, and, from the
fact of their being timbered like the ordinary main-
land, they afforded an effective contrast to the miles
of water or waving reeds of which the marshes con-
sisted. They served admirably also for cattle camps.
To them the cattle always retired at noonday in
summer, and at night in winter and spring-time.
One " island," not very far from our settlement, was
known as " Kennedy's island," the gallant ill-fated
explorer who had surveyed a road to the town of
Portland some years before my arrival having made
his camp there. How far he was to wander from
the pleasant green west country, only to die by the
spear of a crouching savage, within sight of the ship
that had been sent to bring him safely home after
his weary desert trail !

We didn't know anything of the nature of dry
country in those days. All the land I looked upon
was deep-swarded, thickly-verdured as an English
meadow. Wild duck swam about in the pools and
meres of the wide misty fen, with its brakes of tall
reeds and " marish-marigolds " — " the sword-grass and
the oat-grass and the bulrush by the pool." Over-
head long strings of wild swan clanged and swayed.
There were wild beasts (kangaroo and dingoes),
Indians (blacks, whose fires in " The Rocks " we

44 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

could see), a pathless waste, and absolute freedom and
independence. These last were the most precious
possessions of all. No engagements, no office work,
no fixed hours, no sums or lessons of any kind or
sort. I felt as if this splendid Robinson Crusoe kind
of life was too good to be true. Who was I that I
should have had this grand inheritance of happiness
immeasurable made over to me ? What a splendid
world it was, to be sure ! Why did people ever
repine or complain ? I should have made short
work of Mr. Mallock, and have settled the argument
" Is life worth living ? " had it then arisen between
us, with more haste than logic. Action, however,
must in colonisation never fail to accompany con-
templation. To which end I returned to our camp,
just in time to partake of the simple, but appetising,
meal which Mrs. Burge had prepared for us.

Cold corned beef, hot tea, and a famous fresh
damper, the crust of which I still hold to be better
than any other species of bread whatever, when
accompanied, as in the case referred to, with good,
sweet, fresh butter. How splendid one's appetite
was after hours spent in the fresh morning air. How
complete the satisfaction when it all came to an end.

Then commenced a council of war, in which Joe
Burge was a leading spokesman. " Old Tom can
look after the cattle. Mr. Cunningham and I will
go and fell a tree. I know one handy that'll run
out nigh on a hundred slabs, and if you'll bring up
the bullocks and dray to the stump, sir, to-night,
we'll have a load of slabs ready to take home."

What was the next thing that was necessary to
be done?

v SQUATTLESEA MERE 45

To build a house.

At present we were living under a dray. Now,
a dray is not so bad a covering at night, when
extremely sleepy and tired, but in daylight it is
valueless. And if it rains — and in the west it often
did, and I am informed does still, though not so
hard as it did then — the want of a permanent shelter
makes itself felt.

The walls of a sod hut were indeed already up.
Clean-cut black cubes, rather larger than bricks, when
new and moist, make a neat, solid wall. In little
more than a day we had a thatched roof completed,
so that we were able to have our evening meal in
comfort, and even luxury. A couple of fixed bed-
steads were placed at opposite corners, in which Mr.
Cunningham and I arranged our bedding. Joe
Burge and his wife still slept under the " body " of
the dray, while Old Tom had a separate section
allotted to him under the pole.

But the " hut," of split slabs, with wall-plate top
and bottom, and all the refinements of bush car-
pentry, was to be the real mansion. And at this
we soon made a commencement. I say we, because
I drove the bullocks and carted the slabs to the site
we had pitched on, besides doing a bit of squaring
and adzing now and then.

Joe Burge and Mr. Cunningham (who was an
experienced bushman, and half a dozen other things
to boot) soon " ran out " slabs enough, and fitted the
round stuff, most of which I carted in, preferring that
section of industry to the all-day, every-day work of
splitting. Old Tom looked after the cattle. They
needed all his attention for a while, displaying, as

46 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

they did, a strong desire to march incontinently back
to the banks of the Merai.

In two or three weeks the hut was up. How I
admired it ! The door, the table, the bedsteads, the
chairs (three-legged stools), the washstand, were all
manufactured by Joe Burge out of the all-sufficing
" slab " of the period. A wooden chimney with an
inner coating of stone-work worked well without
smoking. The roof was neatly thatched with the
tall, strong tussock-grass, then so abundant.

Our dwelling transcended that of the lowland
Scot, who described his as " a lairge hoose wi' twa
rooms intil't," inasmuch as it boasted of three. One
was the atrium — being also used as a refectory — and
chief general apartment. The rest of the building
was bisected by a wooden partition, affording thus
two bedrooms. One of these was devoted to Joe
Burge and family, the other I appropriated. Mr.
Cunningham and Old Tom slept in the large room,
where — firewood being plentiful — they kept up a
roaring fire, and had rather the best of it in the cold
nights which then commenced to visit us.

Excepting a stock-yard, there now remained next
to nothing to do, and being rather overmanned for
so small a station, Mr. Cunningham, with my free
consent, elected to take service with the Dunmore
firm, with whom he remained for some years after.
I had now attained the acme of worldly felicity. I
had always longed to have a station of my own.
Now I had one. I had daily work of the kind that
exactly suited me. I went over to Dunmore and
spent a pleasant evening every now and then, rubbing
up my classics and having a little " good talk." I

v SQUATTLESEA MERE 47

had a few books which I had brought up with me in
the dray — Byron, Scott, Shakespeare (there was no
Macaulay in those days), with half a score of other
authors, in whom there was pabulum mentis for a
year or two. I had, besides, the run of the Dunmore
library — no mean collection.

So I had work, recreation, companionship, and
intellectual occupation provided for me in abundant
and wholesome proportion. What else could cast a
shadow over my prosperous present and promising
future ? Well, there was one factor in the sum
which I had not reckoned with. " The Amalekite
was then in the land," and with the untamed, un-
tutored pre-Adamite it appeared that I was fated to
have trouble.

The aboriginal blacks on and near the western
coast of Victoria — near Belfast, Warrnambool, and
Portland — had always been noted as a breed of
savages by no means to be despised. They had
been for untold generations accustomed to a dietary
scale of exceptional liberality. The climate was
temperate ; the forests abounded in game ; wild-
fowl at certain seasons were plentiful ; while the sea
supplied them with fish of all sorts and sizes, from a
whale (stranded) to a whitebait. No wonder that
they were a fine race, physically and otherwise — the
men tall and muscular, the women well-shaped and
fairly good-looking. To some even higher commend-
ation might with truth be applied.

One is often tempted to smile at hearing some
under-sized Anglo-Saxon, with no brain power to
spare, assert gravely the blacks of Australia were the
lowest race of savages known to exist, the connect-

48 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

inc link between man and the brute creation, etc.

*&

On the contrary, many of the leading members of
tribes known to the pioneer squatters were grandly-
formed specimens of humanity, dignified in manner,
and possessing an intelligence by no means to be
despised, comprehending a quick sense of humour, as
well as a keenness of perception, not always found
in the superior race.

Unfortunately, before I arrived and took up my
abode on the border of the great Eumeralla mere,
there had been divers quarrels between the old race
and the new. Whether the stockmen and shepherds
were to blame — as is always said — or whether it
was simply the ordinary savage desire for the tempt-
ing eoods and chattels of the white man, cannot be
accurately stated. Anyhow, cattle and sheep had
been lifted and speared ; blacks had been shot, as a
matter of course ; then, equally so, hut-keepers,
shepherds, and stockmen had been done to death.

Just about that time there was a scare as to the
disappearance of a New South Wales semi-civilised
aboriginal named Bradbury. He was a daring
fellow, a bold rider, and a good shot. As he occasion-
ally stayed at the native camp, and had now not
been seen for a month, it began to be rumoured that
he had agreed to accept the leadership of the
outlawed tribes against the whites. In such a case
the prospects of the winter, with thinly -manned
homesteads eight or ten miles apart, looked de-
cidedly bad.

However, the discovery of poor Bradbury's bones
a short time afterwards set that matter at rest. He
always took his gun with him, distrusting — and with

v SQUATTLESEA MERE 49

good reason — his trans-Murray kin. On this occasion
they " laid for him," it seems, and by means of a sable
Delilah, who playfully ran off with his double-barrel,
took him at a disadvantage. He fought desperately,
we were told, even with a spear through his body, but
was finally overpowered. Just before they had killed
and chopped up a hut-keeper, and at Mount Rouse
they had surprised and killed one of Mr. Cox's men,
the overseer — Mr. Brock — only saving himself by
superior speed of foot, for which he was noted.

I was recommended by my good friends of Dun-
more and others of experience to keep the blacks
at a distance, and not to give them permission to
come about the station.

Being young and foolish — or, let me say, un-
suspicious— I chose to disregard this warning and to
take my own way. I thought the poor fellows had
been hardly treated. It was their country, after all.
A policy of conciliation would doubtless show them
that some of the white men had their good at heart.

To the westward of our camp lay the great tract
of lava country before mentioned. This had been
doubtless an outflow in old central-fire days from
the crater of Mount Eeles. Now, cooled, hardened,
cracked, and decomposed, it annually produced a rich
crop of grass. It was full of ravines, boulders, masses
of scoria, and had, besides, a lakelet in the centre.
It was many miles across, and extended from Mount
Eeles nearly to the sea.

It was not particularly easy to walk in. And, as
for riding, one day generally saw the end of the
most high-couraged, sure-footed horse. As a natural
covert for savages it could not be surpassed.

E

So OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap, v

In this peculiar region our " Modocs lay hid."
We could see the smoke of their camp fires in toler-
able number, but had no means of seeing or having
speech of them. One day, however, having probably
sent out a scout previously who had made careful
examination of us while we were totally unconscious
of any such supervision, they debouched from the
rocks and came up to camp. They sent a herald in
advance, who held up a green bough. Then, " walk-
ing delicately," they came up, in number nearly fifty.
I was at home, as it happened, as also was the old
stockman. How well I remember the day and the
scene !

We all carried guns in those days, as might the
border settlers in " Injun " territory.

CHAPTER VI

THE EUMERALLA WAR

We had been informed that the Eumeralla people,
when that station was first taken up by Mr. Hunter
for Hughes and Hoskins, of Sydney, always took
their guns into the milking-yard with them, for fear
of a surprise. The story went that one day a sudden
attack " was " made. While the main body was
engaged, a wing of the invading force made a flank
movement, and bore down upon the apparently
undefended homestead. There, however, they were
confronted by Mr. William Carmichael, a neighbour
of Falstaffian proportions, who stood in the doorway
brandishing a rusty cutlass which he had discovered.
Whether the blacks were demoralised by the appear-
ance of the fattest man they had ever seen, or awe-
stricken at the fierceness of his bearing, is not known,
but they wheeled and fled just as their main army
had concluded to fall back on Mount Eeles.

Of Messrs. Gorrie and M'Gregor (uncle and
nephew), who were chief among the Eumeralla
pioneers, having come down with the original herd
of ITH cattle, with which the run was first occupied,

52 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

many tales are told. The former, a stalwart, iron-
nerved, elderly Scot, was the envied possessor of a
rifle of great length of barrel and the deadliest
performance. The coolness of its owner under fire
(of spears) was a matter of legendary lore.

In a raid upon the heathen, shortly after an
unprovoked murder on their part, two aboriginals
bolted out of their cover immediately in front of Mr.
Gorrie. Running their best, and leaping from side
to side as they went, the nearer one made frantic
signs to the effect that the other man was the real
culprit.

" Bide a wee," quoth the calm veteran, as the
barrel of the old rifle settled to its aim. " Bide a
wee, laddie, and I'll sort ye baith." Which the
legend goes on to say he actually did, disposing of
the appellant at sight, and knocking over the other
before he got out of range of la longue carabine.

One day Mr. M'Gregor was returning through
disturbed country. While discovering " Injun sign "
to be tolerably plain and recent, his horse at speed
fell under him, and rolled over, a tremendous cropper.
He picked himself up, and, going over to the motion-
less steed, found that he was stone dead — he had
broken both forelegs and his neck. A moment's
thought, and he picked up the saddle and bridle,
and, thus loaded, ran the seven or eight miles home
at a pace which Dcerfoot would have respected.

Things went on prosperously for some months.
" The hut," a substantial and commodious structure,
arose in all its grandeur. It boasted loopholes on
either side of the huge, solid chimney, built out of
the cube-shaped basaltic blocks which lay around in

vi THE EUMERALLA WAR 53

profusion. So we were prepared for a siege. A
stock-yard was the next necessity ; to split and put
up this important adjunct, without which we had no
real title to call ourselves a cattle station, was imper-
ative. " Four rails and a cap," as the description
ran, of the heavy substantial fence then thought
necessary for the business, were to be procured.
The white-gum timber, though good enough in a
splitting sense for slabs, was not the thing for stock-
yard work. So, as we knew by report from the
" Eumeralla people " that there was a tract of stringy-
bark forest about eight miles south of us towards the
coast, we determined to get our timber there. The
bushman who had put up the Eumeralla huts — one
Tinker Woods, an expatriated gipsy, it was said,
whom therefore I regarded with great interest — had
marked some trees which would serve to guide us.
Joe Burge thought he could manage the rest.

The "round stuff" we could cut close about.
But the heavy rails, nine feet in length, from three to
five inches thick, and as straight as a board paling,
we had to get from the forest. As Mr. Cunningham
had gone, and the old stockman, Tom, had quite
enough to do minding the cattle, the work fell on
Joe Burge and myself.

This is how it was managed. At daylight we
started one Monday morning, taking the dray and
team, with maul and wedges, crosscut saw and axes,
bedding, blankets, and a week's rations, not forgetting
the guns. When we got to the forest, after finding
the Tinker's Tree (it bore the name years after) — an
immense stringy bark, with a section of the outside
wood split down to see if the grain was free — we

54 OLD MELBOURNE MEMO RLE S chap.

soon pitched upon a " good straight barrel," and set
to work. Joe cut a good-sized "calf" in it first, and
then we introduced the crosscut. I had got through
a reasonable amount of manual exercise, and had
more than one spell, when the tall tree began to
sway, and, as we drew back to the right side of the
stump, came crashing down, flattening all the lighter
timber in its way.

" Now, sir," quoth Joe, " you give me a hand to
crosscut the first length. There'll be two more after
that. Them I'll do myself, and now we'll have a
pot of tea. You can take the team home, and come
back the day after to-morrow. I'll have a load of
rails ready for you."

We had our meal in great comfort and contentment.
Then I started off to drive the team back. At sunset
I saw the thatched roof of our hut. I had walked
sixteen miles there and back, besides helping to fell
our tree, and unyoking the team afterwards.

I slept soundly that night. I drove the team
back to the forest on the day named, and found Joe
perfectly well and contented, having split up the
whole of the tree into fine, straight, substantial rails,
thirty of which were put upon the dray. After
helping to cut down another tree, I departed on my
homeward journey.

On Saturday the same proceedings took place,
and da capo until all the rails were split and drawn
in. Joe must have felt pretty lonely at night,
camped in a bark gunyah, with the black pillars of
the stringy-bark trees around him, and not a soul
within reach or ken. But he was not ot a nervous
temperament — by wood or wold, land or sea, on foot

vi THE EUMERALLA WAR 55

or horseback, hand-to-hand fight, sword or pistol, it
was all one to Joe. He was afraid of nothing and
nobody. And when, years after, his son returned
from India with the Queen's Commission and the
Victoria Cross, I knew where the bold blood had
come from. Towards the end of our wood-ranging,
a rumour got abroad that the blacks had " broken
out" and commenced to spear cattle. They had,
moreover, " intromitted with the Queen's lieges," as
Dugald Dalgetty would have said. Mr. Cunningham,
riding through the greenwood at Dunmore, had had
three spears thrown at him by blacks, one of which
went through his hat. They then (he averred) dis-
appeared into an " impenetrable scrub." Neighbours
talked of arming and going out in force to expostulate,
if this kind of thing was to go on.

I told Joe of this, and brought a message from
Mrs. Burge to say that Old Tom, who knew the
blacks well, was getting anxious, that he must not
stay away any longer, but had better come home
with me.

Joe agreed generally, but said there was one
lovely, straight tree that he must run out, and if I
would help him fell this, he would come directly it
was finished. I tried to persuade him, but it was
useless. So we " threw " the tree, and loaded up. I
started home again alone.

Now the tree was a large tree ; the load heavier
than usual. My departure was late in consequence,
and the moon rose before I had half finished my
homeward journey. To add to my trouble I got
into a soft spot in the marsh road, and in the alterca-
tion one of my leaders, a hot-tempered animal, slued

56 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

round and " turned his yoke." Gentlemen who have
driven teams will understand the situation. The
bows were by this manoeuvre placed on the tops of
the bullocks' necks, the yoke underneath, and the
off-side bullock became the near-side one. I was
nearly in despair. I dared not unyoke them, because
they, being fresh, would have bolted and left me
helpless. So I compromised, and started the team,
finding that by keeping pretty wide of my leaders
and behaving with patience they would keep the
track. The road was moderately open, and they
knew they were going home.

At one part of the road I had to pass between
two walls of ti-tree, a tall kind of scrub through
which I could not see, and which looked in the
moonlight very dark and eerie. I began to think
about the blacks, and whether or no they might
attack us in force. At that very moment I heard
a wild shrill cry, which considerably accelerated the
circulatory system.

I sprang to the gun, which lay alongside of the
rail, just within the side-board of the dray. " I will
sell my life dearly," I said to myself; " but oh ! if it
must be — shall I never see home again ? " As I
pulled back the hammer another cry, hardly so shrill
— much more melodious, indeed, to my ears — sounded,
and a flock of low-flying dark birds passed over my
head. It was the cry of the wild swan ! I was not
sorry when I saw the hut fire, and drew up with my
load near the yard. I had some trouble with my
leader, the off-side bullock not caring to let me
approach him, as is the manner of his kind. But I
got over the difficulty, and dealt out retributive

vi THE EUMERALLA WAR 57

justice by letting him and his mate go in their yoke,
and postponing further operations to daylight.

Mrs. Burge was most anxious about her husband,
and inveighed against his foolishly putting his life in
jeopardy for a few rails. Old Tom laughed, and
said as long as Joe had a good gun he was a match
for all the blacks in the country, if they did not take
him by surprise.

" We're going to have a bit of trouble with these
black varment now," he said, filling his pipe in a
leisurely way. " Once they've started killing cattle
they won't leave off in a hurry. More by token,
they might take a fancy to tackle the hut some day
when we're out."

" You leave me a gun, then," said Mrs. Burge,
"and I'll be able to frighten 'em a bit if I'm left
by myself. But sure, I hardly think they'd touch
me after all the flour and bits of things I've given
the lubras."

" They're quare people," said the old stockman,
meditatively ; " there's good and bad among 'em,
but the divil resave the blackfellow I'd trust nearer
than I could pull the trigger on him, if he looked
crooked."

I said little, being vexed that my policy of con-
ciliation had been of no avail. I roused myself,
however, out of a reverie on the curious problem
afforded by original races of mankind, foredoomed to
perish at the approach of higher law.

" They have not touched any of our cattle yet,"
I said ; " that shows they have some feeling of
gratitude."

" I wouldn't say that," answered the old man,

58 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

" I missed a magpie steer to-day, and I didn't see
that fat yellow cow with the white flank. Thim's
a pair that's always together, and I seen all the
leading mob barrin' the two."

"We must have a hunt for them to-morrow,"
I said, " and the sooner Joe comes in the better,
Mrs. Burge."

" Yes, indeed," said that resolute matron, casting
a glance at the cradle where lay a plump infant not
many weeks old ; " and is there any other man in
the country that would risk his life for a load of
stock-yard rails ? Not but it's elegant timber ; only
he might think of me and the baby."

The argument was a good one, so next day I
went out and forcibly brought away Joe and a final
cargo of rails, though to the last he asserted " that
we were spoiling the yard for the sake of another
week's splitting."

I may here state that we got our stock-yard up
in due time. It was seven feet high, and close
enough — a rat could hardly get through. My share
was chiefly the mortising of the huge posts, which
afforded considerable scope for amateur execution,
by reason of their size and thickness. If the yard
is still standing — and nothing less than a stampede
of elephants would suffice to level it — I could pick
out several of " my posts " with unerring accuracy.
" God be with those days," as the Irish idiom runs ;
they were happy and free. I should like to be
drafting there again — if the clock could be put back.
But life's time-keeper murmurs sadly with rhythmic
pendulum, " Never — for ever : for ever — never ! "
All of a sudden war broke out. The reasons for

vi THE EUMERALLA WAR 59

this last resource of nations none could tell. The
whites only wished to be let alone. They did not
treat the black brother unkindly. Far from it,
There were other philanthropists in the district
besides myself, notably Mr. James Dawson, of
Kangatong, then known as Cox's Heifer Station,
distant about twenty miles to the east. Then, as
now, my old friend and his amiable family were
most anxious to ameliorate his condition. They fed
and clothed the lubras and children. They even
were sufficiently interested to make a patient study
of the language, and to acquire a knowledge of tribal
rites, ceremonies, and customs, which has lately been
embodied in a valuable volume, praised even by the
super -critical Saturday Review. It is a fact, not
altogether without bearing on the historical analysis
of pioneer squatting, that four of us — rude colonists,
as most English writers persist in believing all
Australian settlers to be — were, in greater or less
degree, authors.

Charles Macknight had a logically clear and
trenchant way of putting things. As a political
and social essayist he attracted much attention
during the latter years of his life. His theories
of stock-breeding, culled from contemporary journals,
are still prized and acted upon by experienced
pastoralists. Of the two brothers Aplin, the elder
was a lover of scientific research, and, having a
strong natural taste for geology, addressed himself
to it with such perseverance that he became second
only to Mr. Selwyn, the late Victorian Government
geologist, a man of European reputation, and was
himself enabled to fill the position of Government

60 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

geologist for Northern Queensland. His brother
Dyson was a poet of by no means ordinary calibre.
Mr. Dawson's book is now before the public,
and the present writer has more than one
book or two to his credit, which the public
have been good enough to read, and reviewers to
praise.

Before I begin my history of the smaller Sepoy
Rebellion, I must introduce Mr. Robert Craufurd,
younger, of Ardmillan, a brother of the late Lord
Ardmillan. This gentleman dwelt at Eumeralla
East, a subdivision of the original run, which, in my
time, was the property of the late Mr. Benjamin
Boyd. The river divided the two runs. Messrs.
Gorrie and M'Gregor had acquired Eumeralla West,
with its original homestead and improvements, by
what we should call in the present day something
very like " jumping." However, I had no better claim
to the Doghole-point, which was a part of the old
Eumeralla run — as indeed was Dunmore and all the
country within twenty or thirty miles — if the original
occupant of that station was to be believed. The
commissioner — the gallant and autocratic Captain
Fyans — settled the matter, as was the wont of those
days, by his resistless fiat. He " gave " Messrs.
Gorrie and M'Gregor the western side of the
Eumeralla, with the homestead and the best fattening
country. He restricted Mr. Boyd to the eastern side
of the river, giving him his choice, however. That
was the reason why Tinker Woods had to build new
huts ; and he eventually allotted to me Squattlesea
Merc, and its dependencies, as far as the Doghole-
point, though my friend, Bob Craufurd, on behalf

vi THE EUMERALLA WAR 6 1

of his employer, strove stoutly to have me turned
out.

Mr. Craufurd, like other cadets of good family,
had somewhat swiftly got rid of the capital which he
imported, and, for lack of other occupation, accepted
the berth of manager of Eumeralla East for Mr.
Boyd, and a very good manager he was. A fine
horseman, shrewd, clear-headed, and energetic on
occasion, he did better for that enterprising ill-fated
capitalist than he ever did for himself. He and the
Dunmore people were old friends and schoolfellows.
So, it may be guessed that we often found it con-
venient to exchange our somewhat lonely and
homely surroundings for the comparative luxury and
refinement of Dunmore. What grand evenings we
used to have there !

He was a special humourist. I often catch my-
self now laughing at one of " Craufurd's stories " —
an inveterate practical joker, a thorough sportsman,
a fair scholar, and scribbler of jeux d'esprit, he was
the life and soul of our small community. He once
counterfeited a warrant, which he caused to be served
on Mr. Cunningham for an alleged shooting of a
blackfellow. Even that bold Briton turned pale
(and a more absolutely fearless man I never knew)
when he found himself, as he supposed, within the
iron gripe of the law.

We were all pretty good shots. For one reason
or other the gun was rarely a day out of our hands.
We were therefore in a position to do battle effect-
ively for our homesteads and means of subsistence if
these were assailed. Between my abode and the sea
was but one other run — a cattle station. Sheep

62 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap, vi

were in the minority in those days. It was occupied
by two brothers — the Messrs. Jamieson — Scots also ;
they seemed to preponderate in the west. Their run
rejoiced in the aspiring title of Castle Donnington.
It was rather thickly timbered, possessed a good deal
of limestone formation, and had a frontage to Darlot's
Creek, an ever-flowing true river which there ran into
the sea.

CHAPTER VII

THE CHILDREN OF THE ROCKS

Mr. LEARMONTH had taken up Ettrick and Ellan-
gowan, a few miles higher up on the same creek,
about the same time that I " sat down " on the
Lower Eumeralla. This gentleman, since an officer
of high rank in the volunteer force, had lately come
from Tasmania, whence he brought some valuable
blood mares, with which he founded a stud in after
years. The cattle run comprised a good deal of lava
country. It was there that Bradbury, the civilised
aboriginal before mentioned, met his death. All the
land that lay between Eumeralla proper and the sea,
a tract of country of some twenty or thirty miles
square, had been probably from time immemorial a
great hunting-ground and rendezvous for the sur-
rounding tribes. It was no doubt eminently fitted
for such a purpose. It swarmed with game, and in
the spring was one immense preserve of every kind
of wild fowl and wild animal that the country owned.
Among the Rocks there were innumerable caves,
depressions, and hiding-places of all kinds, in which
the natives had been used to find secure retreat and

64 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

safe hiding in days gone by. Whether they could
not bear to surrender to the white man these
cherished solitudes, or whether it was the short-
sighted, childish anxiety to possess our goods and
chattels, can hardly ever be told. Whatever the
motive, it was sufficient, as on all sides at once
came tales of wrong-doing and violence, of maimed
and slaughtered stock, of homicide or murder.

Next day we saw the greater part of the cattle,
but those particular ones that Old Tom had missed
were not to be found anywhere. We were turning
our horses' heads homewards when I noticed the
eaglehawks circling around and above a circular
clump of ti-tree scrub in a marsh. W'hile we looked
a crow flew straight up from the midst of the clump,
and we heard the harsh cry of others. The same
thought evidently was in all our minds, as we rode
straight for the place, and forced our horses between
the thick -growing, slender, feathery points. In the
centre, amid the tall tussac grass, lay the yellow
heifer with the white flank, stone dead. A spear-
hole was visible beneath the back ribs. Exactly on
the corresponding portion of the other side was
another, proving that, strange as it may seem, a
spear had been driven right through her body.
After Old Tom had concluded his exclamations and
imprecations, which were of a most comprehensive
nature, we agreed that the campaign had been
opened in earnest, and that we knew what we had
to expect. " We'll find more to-morrow," said the
old man. " Onest they'll begin like this, they'll never
lave off till thim villains, Jupiter and Cocknose, is
shot, anyway."

vii THE CHILDREN OF THE ROCKS 65

These strangely- named individuals had been
familiar to our ears ever since our arrival. " Jupiter "
was supposed to have a title to the head chieftain-
ship of the tribe which specially affected the Rocks
and the neighbourhood of the extinct volcano.
Cocknose had been named by the early settlers from
the highly unclassical shape of the facial appendage.
He was known to be a restless, malevolent savage.
Again on the war trail next morning, we tried beat-
ing up and down among the paths by which the
cattle went to water, at the lower portion of the
great marsh. It may be explained that the summer
of 1844 was exceptionally dry, and much of the
surface water having disappeared, the cattle were
compelled to walk in Indian file through the ti-tree,
in many places more than ten feet in height, to the
deeper portion of the marsh, where water was still
visible.

Here Joe Burge hit off a trail, which seemed
likely to solve the mystery. " Here they've been
back and forward, and pretty thick too," he said,
getting off and pointing to the track of native feet,
plain enough in the swamp mud.

" Cattle been here," said the old stockman, " and
running too. Look at thim deep tracks. The
thieves of the world, my heavy curse on them ! "

As we followed on the trail grew broader and
more plain. A few head of cattle had evidently been
surrounded — two or more bullocks, we agreed, and
several cows and calves, heading now in this direction,
now in that. Presently half of a broken spear was
picked up. We followed the track to a thick brake
of reeds nearly opposite to a jutting cape of the lava

F

66 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

country. There we halted. A new character was
legible in the cipher we had been puzzling out.

" They've thrown him here," said the old man.
" Here's where he fell down. There's blood on that
tuft of grass ; and here's the mark of the side of him
in the mud. They've cut him up and carried him
away into the Rocks, bit by bit — hide and horns,
bones and mate. The divil resave the bit of Magpie
ever we'll see again. There's where they wint in."

Sure enough we saw a plainly-marked track, with
a fragment of flesh, or a blood-stain, showing the
path by which they had carried in a slaughtered
animal. Further we could not follow them, as the
lava downs were at this spot too rough for horses,
and we might also have been taken at a disadvantage.
So, on the second evening, we rode home, having
found what we went out to seek, certainly, but not
elated by the discovery.

It now became a serious question how to bear
ourselves in the face of the new state of matters. If
the blacks persisted in a guerilla warfare, besides
killing many of the best of our cattle, they would
scatter and terrify the remainder, so that they would
hardly stay on the run ; besides which, they held us
at a disadvantage. They could watch our move-
ments, and from time to time make sorties from the
Rocks, and attack our homesteads or cut us off in
detail. In the winter season much of the forest
land became so deep and boggy that, even on horse-
back, if surprised and overmatched in numbers, there
would be very little chance of getting away. By this
time the owners of the neighbouring stations were
fully aroused to the necessity of concerted action.

vii THE CHILDREN OF THE ROCKS 67

We had reached the point when " something must
be done." We could not permit our cattle to be
harried, our servants to be killed, and ourselves to
be hunted out of the good land we had occupied by
a few savages.

Our difficulty was heightened by its being
necessary to behave in a quasi -legal manner.
Shooting blacks, except in manifest self-defence, had
been always held to be murder in the Supreme
Courts of the land, and occasionally punished
as such.

Now, there were obstacles in the way of taking
out warrants and apprehending Jupiter and Cocknose,
or any of their marauding braves, in the act. The
Queen's writ, as in certain historic portions of the
west of Ireland, did not run in those parts. Like
all guerillas, moreover, their act of outrage took
place sometimes in one part of a large district,
sometimes in another, the actors vanishing mean-
while, and reappearing with puzzling rapidity.

We went now well armed. We were well
mounted and vigilantly on guard. The Children
of the Rocks were occasionally met with, when
collisions, not all bloodless, took place.

Their most flagrant robbery was committed on
Mr. John Cox's Mount Napier station, whence a
flock of maiden ewes was driven, and the shepherd
maltreated. These young sheep were worth nearly
two pounds per head, besides being impossible to
replace. Mr. Cox told me himself that they con-
stituted about a third of his stock in sheep at the
time. He therefore armed a few retainers and
followed hot on the trail.

68 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

He had unusual facilities for making successful
pursuit. In his house lived a tame aboriginal
named Sou'wester, who had a strong personal
attachment for Mr. Cox. Like most of his race, he
had the true bloodhound faculty when a man-hunt
was in question. He led the armed party, following
easily the trampling of the flock in the long grass
until they reached the edge of the Rocks.

Into this rugged region the flock had been driven.
Before long Sou'wester's piercing eye discovered signs
of their having been forced along the rocky paths at
the point of the spear.

It was evident to him that they were making for
the lake, which was in the centre of the lava country.

By and by he pointed out that, by the look of
the tracks, they were gaining upon the robbers.
And shortly too sure an indication of the reckless
greed and cruelty of the savage was furnished.

Passing round an angular ridge of boulders,
suddenly they came upon about a hundred young
sheep, which had been left behind. " But why are
they all lying down ? " said one of the party.

The tracker paused, and, lifting a hind-leg of one
of the helpless brutes, showed without speech that
the limb was useless.

The robbers had dislocated the hind-legs as a
simple preventive of locomotion ; to insure their
being in the same place when it should please their
captors to return and eat them.

" I never felt so wolfish in my life," said Mr. Cox
to me, afterwards, " as when I saw the poor things
turn up their eyes reproachfully as they lay, as if
imploring our assistance."

vii THE CHILDREN OF THE ROCKS 69

A few more miles brought them up with the
main body. They opened fire upon the tolerably
large body of blacks in possession, directly they
came within range.

"It was the first time I had ever levelled a gun
at my fellow-man," John Cox remarked. " I did so
without regret or hesitation in this instance. I
never remember having the feeling that I could not
miss so strong in me — except in snipe-shooting. I
distinctly remember knocking over three blacks, two
men and a boy, with one discharge of my double
barrel."

Sou'wester had a good innings that day, which
he thoroughly enjoyed. He fired right and left,
raging like a demoniac. One huge black, wounded
to death, hastened his own end by dragging out his
entrails, meanwhile praising up the weapons of the
white man as opposed to those of the black.
Sou'wester cut short his death-song by blowing out
his brains with the horse-pistol of the period.

A few of the front-rankers were shot on this
occasion ; but most of the others saved themselves
by precipitately taking to the lake.

After this nothing happened for a while, until
one day a good-sized party was discovered killing a
bullock of Messrs. Jamieson, near Ettrick. The
brothers Jamieson and Major Learmonth — then
unknown to martial fame — went out to dispute title.
The scene was in a reed-brake — the opposing force
numerous. Spears began to drop searchingly amid
and around the little party. It looked like another
Isandula, and the swart foe crept ominously close,
and yet more close, from tree to tree.

70 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

Then a spear struck William Jamieson in the
forehead — a rough straw hat alone saving his brain.
The blood rushed down, and, dripping on his gun,
damped the priming.

Things looked bad. A little faltering had lost
the fight.

But the Laird of Ettrick shot the savage dead
who threw the spear, and under cover of this
surprise he and Robert Jamieson carried their
wounded comrade safely out of the field.

Among other experiments for the benefit of the
tribe, I had adopted a small black boy. He was
formally handed over to me by his grand-uncle, who
informed me that his name was Tommy, and adjured
me to " kick him plenty." With this thoughtful
admonition from his only surviving male relative I
did not trouble myself to comply, though it occurred
to me subsequently that it was founded upon a
correct analysis of boy nature generally, and of
Master Tommy's in particular. So he was a good
deal spoiled, and, though occasionally useful with
the cattle, did pretty much as he liked, and vexed
the soul of good Mrs. Burge continually.

One night, when we had been on the run all day
and had found the cattle much disorganised, we
noticed an unusual number and brilliancy of fires at
the black camp in the Rocks. We could generally
see their fires in the distance at night, and could
judge of the direction of the camp, though, owing to
the broken nature of the ground, we did not seek to
follow them up, unless when making a reconnaissance
en force.

On this particular night, however, something

vii THE CHILDREN OF THE ROCKS 71

more than usual appeared to be going on. The
dogs, too, were uneasy, and I could see that Old
Tom appeared to be perturbed and anxious.

" I wouldn't be putting it past them black divils
to be makin' a rush some night and thryin' to burn
the hut on us," he said gloomily. "If we lave them
there, atin' and roastin' away at shins of beef and
the hoighth of good livin', as they have now, they'll
think we're afraid, and there'll be no houldin' them.
Ye might get the gintlemen from Dunmore, and
Peter Kearney, and Joe Betts, and Mr. Craufurd,
from Eumeralla, and give them a fright out of that
before they rise on us in rale arnest."

" No, Tom," I said ; " I should not think that
just or right. I believe that they have been killing
our cattle, but I must catch them in the act, and
know for certain what blacks they are, before I take
the law into my own hands. As to driving them
away from the Rocks, it is their own country, and I
will not attack them there till they have done
something in my presence to deserve it."

" Take your own way," said the old man, sullenly.
He lit his pipe, and said no more.

That night, about midnight, the dogs began to
bark in a violent and furious manner, running out
into the darkness and returning with all the appear-
ance of having seen something hostile and unusual.
We turned out promptly, and, gun in hand, went out
some distance into the darkness. The night was of
a pitchy Egyptian darkness, in which naught was
visible a hand's breadth before one. Once we heard
a low murmur as of cautious voices, but it ceased.
Suddenly the black boy, Tommy, who had crept a

72 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

few yards farther, came tearing back past us, and
raced into the hut, where, apparently in an agony of
fear, he threw himself down among the ashes of the
fireplace, ejaculating, " Wild blackfellow, wild black-
fellow ! " to the great discomposure of Mrs. Burge.

We fired off a gun to let them know that we
were prepared, and separating so that we surrounded
the hut on three sides of a front, and could retreat
upon it if hard pressed, awaited the attack.

It was rather an exciting moment. The dark
midnight, the intense stillness, broken only by the
baying of the dogs and the " mysterious sounds of
the desert " ; the chance of a rush of the wild
warriors, who, if unchecked at the onset, would
obliterate our small outpost — all these ideas passed
through my mind in quick succession as we stood to
our guns, and shouted to them to come on.

" But none answered." They probably came
near, under cover of the darkness, and, true to their
general tactics, declined to make an attack when the
garrison was prepared. Had they caught us nap-
ping, the result might have been different. This view
of the subject was confirmed by something which
happened a little while afterwards, and gave us a
most apposite text on which to enlarge in our
memorials to the Government. I happened to be
away with Old Tom on a journey which took us
more than a week. When I returned, " wonderful
ashes had fallen on our heads," as Hadji Baba
phrases it. Our homestead had been surprised and
taken by the enemy. They had held possession of
the hut for an hour or more, and cleared it of all
that they regarded as valuable. Blood had not

vii THE CHILDREN OF THE ROCKS 73

been spilled, but " it was God's mercy," Mrs. Burge
said, " that she, and Joe, and the precious baby had
not all been killed and murdered, and eaten, and all
the cattle driven into the Rocks." I began to think
that I would never go away again — certainly not
for a few years — if adventures of this sort were
possible in my absence. After a little blowing off
of steam, on Old Tom's part, I gathered from the
calmer narrative of Joe Burge the substance of the
affair.

CHAPTER VIII

THE NATIVE POLICE

On the third day after our departure Joe and his
wife were in the milking-yard finishing the morning's
work, when suddenly Mrs. Burge, looking towards
the road, exclaimed, " Good God ! the hut's full of
blacks ! " Realising that her infant lay in his cradle
in the front room, she rushed down, in spite of Joe's
command to stay where she was while he confronted
the enemy.

" Sure, isn't the child there ? " she said. " And
whether or not, mayn't you and I be as well killed
together ? "

Joe, having no sufficiently effective answer at
hand, was fain to follow his more impetuous help-
mate with what speed he might. When they
arrived on the scene, they found about twenty or
thirty blacks briskly engaged in pillaging the hut.
They were passing and repassing from out the
doorway, handing to one another provisions and
everything which attracted their cupidity.

Mrs. Burge, in her own words, first " med into
the big room, and the first thing I seen was this

chap, vin THE NATIVE POLICE 75

precious baby on the floor, and him with the cradle
turned upside down over him. It's a mercy he
wasn't smothered ! I jostled the blackfellows, but
none of them took any notice of me. When I got
outside, who should I see but that little villain
Tommy coming out of the dairy with something in
his hand. I put down the child and riz the tin
milk-dish off the meat-block and hit him over the
top of the head with it. Down he drops like a
cock. I caught hold of him by the hair, and tried
to hold him down, but he was too slippery for me,
and got up again. I thought worse of the ungrate-
ful little villain than all the rest. Many's the good
drink of milk he had in that same dairy, and now
he comes an' lades on the blacks to rob the hut, and
perhaps kill poor Joe, that never did him anything
but good, and me and the baby."

Said Joe Burge — " I went into the hut quiet-like,
and seeing the old woman's monkey was up, after
she got outside, gave her a strong push as if I was
angry, and sent her back to the milking-yard. She
wouldn't go at first, and I made believe to hit her
and be very angry with her. This seemed to please
the blacks, and they grinned and spoke to one
another about it, I could see. I saw them carry out
all the tea, sugar, and flour they could find. As far
as I could make out, they were not set upon killing
me or her. They seemed rather in a good humour,
but I knew enough of blacks to see that the turn of
a straw might make them change their tune. One
fellow had my double gun, which was loaded ; he
did not know much about the ways of a gun, which
was lucky for us. He held up the gun towards me,

76 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

and pulled the trigger. The hammers were up, but
there were no caps on. I had taken them off the
night before. When the gun wouldn't go off, he
says, ' no good, no good,' and laughed and handed it
to another fellow, who held it in one hand like a
fire-stick. I saw they were out for a day's stealing
only. I thought it was better not to cross them.
They were enough to eat us if it came to that. So
I helped them to all they wanted, and sent them
away in good humour with themselves and me. By
and by down comes the wife from the milking-yard,
and she rises an awful pillaloo when she sees what
they had took. About a hundredweight of sugar,
a quarter-chest of tea, a half-bag of flour, clothes,
and, worse than all, two or three silver spoons, with
the wife's initials on, which she looked on as some-
thing very precious. Master Tommy, who had put
up the job to my thinking, cleared out with them.
I saw them making a straight board for the rocks,
toward the lake. I guessed they would camp there
that night. As soon as they were well out of sight
I catches the old mare and ripped over pretty quick
to Dunmore. I saw Mr. Macknight, and told him,
and he promised to make up a party next morning
and follow them up, and see whether something
might not be recovered.

" Next morning, soon after sunrise, he, and Mr.
Irvine, and Mr. Cunningham, and their stockman, all
came riding up to the place. They left their horses
in our paddock, and we went off on foot through
the swamp, and over to the nearest point of the
rocks.

" We had all guns but me. Mr. Macknight and

vin THE NA TIVE POLICE 77

Mr. Irvine had rifles, Mr. Cunningham and the
Dunmore stockman double -barrels. It was bad
walking through the rocks, but after a mile or two I
hit off their tracks by finding where they had
dropped one or two little things they had stolen.
The grass was so long and thick that they trod it
down like as they were going through a wheat-field,
so we could see how they had gone by that.

" Well, after four or five miles terrible hard
walking, we came in sight of the lake, and just on a
little knob on the left-hand side, with a bit of flat
under it, was the camp. I crept up, and could see
them all sitting round their fires, and yarning away
like old women, laughing away now and then. By
George, thinks I, you'll be laughing on the wrong
side of your mugs directly.

" Well, I crept back and told the party, and we
all began to sneak on them quietly, so as to be close
on them before they had any notion of our being
about, when Mr. Cunningham, who was a regular
bull-dog for pluck, but awful careless and wild-like,
trips over a big stone, tumbling down among the
rocks, drops his gun, and then swears so as you
could hear him a mile off.

" All the dogs in the camp — they're the devil and
all to smell out white men — starts a barkin'. The
blacks jumps up, and, catching sight of the party,
bolts away to the lake like a flock of wild duck.
We gave 'em a volley, but it was a long shot, and
our folks was rather much in a hurry. I didn't see
no one tumble down. Anyway, between divin' in
the lake, getting behind the big basalt boulders on
the shore of the lake, and getting right away, when

78 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

we got up the camp was bare of everything but an
old blind lubra that sat there with a small child
beside her, blinkin' with her old eyes, and grinnin'
for all the world like one of the Injun idols I used
to see in the squire's hall at home. Just as we got
up, one fellow bolted out from behind a rock, and
went off like a half-grown forester buck. Mr.
Cunningham bangs away at him, and misses him ;
then flings down his gun, and chivies after him like
a schoolboy. He had as much chance of catching
him as a collie dog has of running down an emu.

" I couldn't hardly help bustin' with laughin' ;
there was Mr. Cunningham, who was tremendous
strong, but rather short on the leg, pounding away
as if he thought he'd catch him every minute, and
the blackfellow, a light active chap, spinning over
the stones like a rock-wallaby — his feet didn't hardly
seem to touch the ground. Then Mr. Macknight
was afraid Mr. Cunningham might run into an
ambush or something of that kind. ' Mr. Cunning-
ham, Mr. Cunningham, come back ! I order you to
come back ! ' Howsoever, Mr. Cunningham didn't
or wouldn't hear him ; but, after awhile, the black-
fellow runs clean away from him, and he come back
pretty red in the face, and his boots cut all to pieces.
We rummaged the camp, and found most of the
things that were worth taking back. The flour, and
tea, and sugar they had managed to get rid of.
Most likely sat up all night and ate 'em right off.
Blacks feed like that, I know.

" But we got the gun and a lot of other things
that were of value to us, as well as my wife's silver
spoons, which she never stopped talk in' about, so I

viii THE NATIVE POLICE 79

was very glad to fall across 'em. After stopping
half an hour we made up all the things that could
be carried, and marched away for home. It was a
long way, and we were pretty well done when we
got there. However, my old woman gave us a first-
rate tea, and I caught the horses, and the gentlemen
rode home. There's no great harm done, sir, that I
know of, but it might have been a plaguy sight
zvorse ; don't you think so, sir ? "

I could not but assent to the proposition. The
caprice of the savage had apparently turned their
thoughts from blood revenge, though they " looted "
the establishment pretty thoroughly. Another time
worse might easily happen. We determined to keep
good watch, and not to trust too much to the chapter
of accidents.

After half a ream of foolscap had been covered
with representations to the Governor, in which I
proudly hoped to convey an idea that our condition
was much like that of American border settlers when
Tecumseh and Massasoit were on the war-path, a
real live troop of horse was despatched to our assist-
ance. First came two of the white mounted police
from Colac ; then a much more formidable contingent,
for one morning there rode up eight troopers of the
native police, well armed and mounted, carbine in
sling, sword in sheath, dangling proper in regular
cavalry style. The irregular cavalry force known as
the Native Police was then in good credit and
acceptation in our colony. They had approved
themselves to be highly effective against their sable
kinsmen. The idea originated in Victoria, if I mis-
take not, and was afterwards developed in New

80 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

South Wales, still later in Queensland. Mr. H. E.
Pulteney Dana and his brother William were the
chief organisers and first officers in command. They
were principally recruited from beyond the Murray,
and occasionally from Gippsland. They were rarely
or never used in the vicinity of their own tribes.
Picked for physique and intelligence, well disciplined,
and encouraged to exercise themselves in athletic
sports when in barracks, they were by no means to
be despised as adversaries, as was occasionally dis-
covered by white as well as black wrongdoers.

Mounted on serviceable, well-conditioned horses,
all in uniform, with their carbines slung, and steel
scabbards jingling as they rode, they presented an
appearance which would have done no discredit to
Hodson or Jacob's Horse. Buckup, as non-commis-
sioned officer, rode slightly in front, the others
following in line. As I came out of the hut door
the corporal saluted. " We been sent up by Mr.
Dana, sir, to stop at this station a bit. Believe the
blacks been very bad about here."

The blacks ! This struck me as altogether lovely
and delicious. How calm and lofty was his expres-
sion ! I answered with decorum that they had,
indeed, been very bad lately — speared the cattle,
robbed the hut, etc. ; that yesterday we had seen the
tracks of a large mob of cattle, which had been
hunted in the boggy ground at the back of the run
for miles.

" They only want a good scouring, sir," quoth
Buckup, carelessly, as he gave the order to dis-
mount.

As they stood before me I had a good opportunity

vm THE NATIVE POLICE 81

of observing their general appearance. Buckup was
a fine-looking fellow, six feet high, broad shouldered
and well proportioned, with a bold, open cast of
countenance, set off with well-trimmed whiskers and
moustache. He was a crack hand with the gloves,
I heard afterwards, and so good a wrestler that he
might have come off in a contest with Sergeant
Francis Stewart, sometimes called Bothwell, nearly
as satisfactorily as did Balfour of Burley. Tallboy,
so called from his unusual height, probably, was a
couple of inches taller, but slender and wiry looking ;
while Yapton was a middle-sized, active warrior, with
a smooth face, a high nose, heavy, straight hair, and
a grim jaw. I thought at the time he must be very
like an American Indian. The others I do not
particularly recall, but all had a smart, serviceable
look, as they commenced to unsaddle their horses and
pile their arms and accoutrements, preparatory to
making camp in a spot which I had pointed out
to them.

They spent the rest of the day in this necessary
preliminary, and by nightfall had a couple of mia-
mias solidly built with their backs to the sea wind,
and neatly thatched with tussac grass from the
marsh.

During the afternoon Buckup held consultation
with me, Joe Burge, and Old Tom, at the conclusion
of which he professed himself to be in possession of
the requisite information, and decided as to future
operations.

Next morning, early, the white troopers and the
blacks started off for a long day in the Rocks, on
foot. It was almost impossible to take horses through

G

82 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

that rugged country, and the police horses were too
good to be needlessly exposed to lameness, and
probably disablement. Long afterwards a trusty
retainer of mine was betrayed into a hardish ride
therein after an unusually tempting mob of fat cattle
and unbranded calves, which had escaped muster for
more than a year. The shoes of the gallant mare
which he rode came off before the day was done.
He was compelled to leave her with bleeding feet
a mile from the edge of the smooth country, bringing
out the cattle, however, with the aid of his dogs.
Next day we went back to lead her out, but poor
Chilena was as dead as Britomarte.

So, lightly arrayed, the black troopers stole through
the reeds of the marsh, in the dim light of a rainy
dawn, and essayed to track the rock-wolves to their
lair. Camps they found, many a one, having good
store of beef bones at all of them, but the indigenes
were gone, though signs of recent occupation were
plentiful. An outlying scout had " cut the track "
of the trooper's horses, and "jaloused," as Mr. Gorrie
would have said, only too accurately what was likely
to follow. Anyhow, the contingent returned tired
and rather sulky after sundown, with their boots
considerably the worse for wear. I did not myself
accompany the party, nor did I propose to do so at
any other time. I took it for granted that blood
might be shed, and I did not wish to be an eye-witness
or participator. The matter at issue was now grave
and imminent. Whether should we crush the un-
provoked c'meute, or remove the remnant of our stock,
abandon our homesteads, and yield up the good land
of which we had taken possession ?

via THE NATIVE POLICE 83

It would hardly have been English to do the
latter. So we had nothing for it but to make the
best fight we could.

A fresh reconnaissance was made daily from my
homestead, sometimes in one direction, sometimes in
another. But though rumours were heard of their
appearance in different and distant parts of the district,
no actual sight of the foe could be accomplished.
Buckup and his men-at-arms, after the first day,
were very patient and cheerful about the matter.
They played quoits, of which I had a set — wrestled
and boxed during their leisure hours, shot kangaroo
and wild duck, and generally comported themselves
as if this sort of thing was all in the day's work.
Meantime, the heavy winter rains had begun to fall
and the marshes to fill ; the forest became so satu-
rated that horses could hardly be ridden over it in
places. I had occasion to go to Belfast for a couple
of days on business. When I returned I found that
a regular engagement had taken place the day
before, the result of which would probably be
decisive.

Neither of my men had been out, as it happened,
but they had gleaned their information from the white
troopers, and very sparingly from Buckup. Beyond
saying that they had come up with the main body of
the tribe and given them a scouring, he was disposed
to say but little.

On this particular day an expedition had been
made to a " heathy," desolate tract of country which
lay at " the back " of the run. Here were isolated
marshes covered with rushes, and for the most part
surrounded with belts of tall ti-tree scrub. Between

84 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

these were sand-hills with a thick, sheltering growth
of casuarina and banksia, while here and there grew
copses of mimosa and blackwood, the Australian
hickory. Here, it seems, the police were plodding
along, apparently on their usual persistent but
unavailing search, when suddenly one of the men
pulled up, dismounted, and, picking up something,
gave a low, sibilant whistle. In an instant the whole
troop gathered around him, while he held up a small
piece of bark which had quite recently been ignited.
Not a word was said as Yapton took the lead, at
a sign from Buckup, and the rest of the black troopers
followed in loose order, like questing hounds, examin-
ing with eager eyes every foot of the way. Shortly
afterwards a tree was discovered where, with a few
fresh cuts of a tomahawk, a grub had been taken
out of the hollow wood. The trail had been struck.

Patiently for several hours the man -hunters
followed up the tracks, while fresh signs from time
to time showed that a large body of blacks had quite
recently passed that way. Suddenly, at a yell from
Yapton, every man raised his head, and then rode at
full speed towards a frantic company of savages
as, startled and surprised, they made for a patch of
scrub.

The horses fell and floundered from time to time
in the deep, boggy soil, but their desperate riders
managed to lift and hustle them up as the last black
disappeared in the ti-trce. Unluckily for them, the
scrub was not a large one, and the ground on either
side comparatively clear.

Buckup sent a man to each corner, and himself
with two troopers charged into the centre. Spears

vin THE NATIVE POLICE 85

began to fly, and boomerangs ; but the wild men had
little chance with their better- armed countrymen.
Out bolts a flying fugitive, and makes for the nearest
reed-bed. Tallboy is nearest to him, and his horse
moves as he raises his carbine, and disturbs the aim.
Striking him savagely over the head with the butt
end, he raises his piece, fires, and Jupiter drops on
his face. Quick shots follow, a general stampede
takes place, but few escape, and when the troop turn
their horses' heads homeward, all the known leaders
of the tribe are down. They were caught red-
handed, too, a portion of a heifer and her calf freshly
slaughtered being found on the spot where they were
first sighted.

Such was the substance of the tale as told to me.
It may have been more or less incorrect as to detail,
but Jupiter and his associate with the unclassical
profile were never seen alive again ; and as no head
of stock was ever known to be speared or stolen
after that day, it may be presumed that the chastise-
ment was effectual. Years afterwards a man showed
me the cicatrix of a bullet-wound in the region of
the chest, and asserted that " Police-blackfellow
' plenty kill him ' " on that occasion. He further
added that he promptly, upon recovery, hired himself
as a shepherd to " old man Gorrie," as he disrespect-
fully termed that patriarch, being convinced that
lawless proceedings were likely to bring him to a
bad end.

This would seem to have been the general
opinion of the tribe. After due time they came in
and made submission, working peaceably and use-
fully for the squatters, who were only too glad to

86 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap, v hi

assist their efforts in the right path. Many years
afterwards the remnant of the tribe was gathered
together and " civilised " at the missionary station of
Lake Condah, a fine sheet of water at the western
extremity of the lava country, and less than twenty
miles from the scene of the proceedings described.
There the black and half-caste descendants of the
once powerful Mount Eeles tribe dwell harmlessly
and happily, if not usefully to the State. A resident
of the district informed me some time since that a
black henchman of mine lived at the Mission, and
was last seen driving some of his kinsfolk in a buggy.
Tommy had taken advantage of his opportunities,
moreover, for he sent a message of goodwill and
remembrance to me, further intimating that if I
would write to him lie would answer my letter !
Such is the progress of civilisation ; but, with all
good wishes for the success of the experiment, I do
not anticipate permanently valuable results.

When Tommy and I swam the Leigh together,
one snowy day, bound for Ballarat with fat cattle, I
suspect he was employed in a manner more befitting
to his nature, and more improving to his general
morale.

CHAPTER IX

KILFERA

Our border ruffians being settled with for good and
all, we pioneers were enabled to devote ourselves to
our legitimate business — the breeding and fattening
of cattle. For this industry the Port Fairy district
was eminently fitted, and at that time — how different
from the present ! — sheep and wool were rather at a
discount. Of course, some men had sufficient fore-
sight and shrewdness to back the golden fleece, but
their experiences were not encouraging.

The heavy herbage and rich soil of the West
tended lamentably to foot-rot. The flocks seemed
to be in a state of chronic lameness. The malady
either reduced wool increase and condition to a
point considerably below zero, or necessitated the
employment of such a number of hands in applying
bluestone and butyr of antimony (the remedies of the
period), that the shearing subsidy was considerably
encroached on.

Then there was " Scab " — word of dread and hate-
fulness, herald of ruin and loss, of endless torment
to all concerned, of medicated dippings, dressings,

88 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

deaths and destructions innumerable ; the dreadful
multiplication of station hands, who assisted with
cheerful but perfunctory effort, patently disbelieving
in " any species of cure," and looking on the whole
affair — disease, dressing, and dipping — as a manifest
dispensation of Providence for the sustentation of the
" poor man."

When all had been done that could be done by
the proprietor in his desperate need, a single sheep
straying among the straggling flocks, or reintroduced
by a careless or malignant station hand (and the
latter crime is alleged to have been more than once
committed), was sufficient to undo a year's labour.
Then the distracting, expensive task had to be
commenced de novo.

In those days, too, when fencing was not ; when
the shepherds comprised, perhaps, the very worst
class of labour in the colonies, it may be guessed
how hard and anxious a life was that of the western
Victorian sheepowner.

His neighbour, too, was but too often his natural
enemy. A careless flockholder might supply a
nucleus of contagion from which a whole district
would suffer. This state of matters continued
until the gold discoveries, when the shepherds
having mostly withdrawn themselves, and a com-
pulsory admixture of flocks taking place, scab spread
throughout the length and breadth of Victoria.
What its cost to the Government and to private
persons was before it was finally stamped out would
be difficult, very difficult, to find out — so large a sum
that it would have paid all concerned ten times, a
hundred times over, to have purchased all infected

ix KILFERA 89

stock at, say, ^5 per head, only to have cut the
throats of and cremated the lot.

" Behold how great a matter a little fire kindleth "
is a scriptural aphorism strictly applicable to acarian
development. Many a well-to-do sheepholder was
burnt out of house and home by the quick-spreading
ovine leprosy which germinated at a friend's care-
lessly-ordered establishment. So that it came to
pass that the " Gallants of Westland " were loath to
exchange the free roving lives of cattle -tending
caballeros for the restricted, " pokey," worrying round
of duties to which the sheepholders seemed doomed.
At one of our gatherings, at which — the majority
being cattle-men — a toast involving a little indirect
self-laudation was duly honoured, a pioneer squatter
from a distance remarked gravely, " How little you
fellows can realise what a life we have been leading
in our district the last year or two ! " He had just
finished " cleaning " his flocks, as had also his neigh-
bours. He certainly looked, as the financial survivor
of a drought expressed it once, as though he had
" come through the Valley of the Shadow."

When we rubbed along thus jovially, deeming
life to be " a great and glorious thing," fat cows
were well sold at £2 per head, and bullocks at
£3. Certainly you could buy stores (or, as they
primevally called them, "lean cattle") at from 10s.
to 1 6s., prices which left a margin. The Messrs.
Manifold bought a large number of bullocks from
the Shelleys, of Tumut, at the latter price, some-
where about the year 1845. How they fattened at
Purrumbeet and Leura may be imagined ! They
fetched top prices, but were not thought to pay so

90 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

well as the early ripening station-breds, on which the
3M brand was thenceforth chiefly placed.

I became possessed of a herd of a thousand head
about the same time, which I took " on terms," as
the arrangement was thus called — a convenient one
for beginners with more country than capital, and vice
versa. I was to have one-third of the increase, and
to be paid ten per cent upon all sales of fat cattle.
They were to be " personally conducted " by me
from the Devil's River — a place uncanny sounding,
but not otherwise objectionable. They were the
property of Messrs. Curlewis and Campbell ; the
first-named gentleman arranged preliminaries with
me in town, and in a few days I again started
from Melbourne with high hopes and three stock-
riders.

Our route lay over country that has since
become historical. One half of the herd was
located at Strathbogie, and through those forest-
clothed solitudes and adown the steep shoulder of
the leading range had we to drive our unwilling
cattle. It was on that occasion that I made
acquaintance with my good, warm-hearted friend
Charles Ryan — then a gay young bachelor living
at Kilfera, on the Broken River. We met at an
extremely small, not to say dismal hut at Strath-
bogie, already inhabited by Messrs. Joe Simmons,
Salter, and Hall, who, together with my men and
myself, were constrained to abide therein till the cattle,
weak and low after their drive from the head of the
Abercrombie in New South Wales, were mustered.

" Come along over with me and let them muster
the cattle themselves, you have only to take delivery,"

ix KILFERA 91

was his highly natural salutation {i.e. natural to
Charles Ryan), and I came along accordingly.

Kilfera station was a comfortable bachelor home-
stead, and it struck me, as I saw it for the first
time, that it had a distinctly " Galway " look about
it. The hospitality was free and unstinted. I was
not the only guest. As we rode up we came upon
a match at quoits, the players at which wore the
air of non-combatants. There was a fine upstanding
son of Peter Fin, " Modderidderoo " by name, in the
stables ; on the next day I was shown the very
panel where Mr. Jack Hunter had jumped " The
Badger " over a three-railed fence, without bridle or
saddle.

" We saw him coming up the paddock," said my
host (he had gone down to catch his horse and taken
no bridle with him), " at a swinging hand-gallop,
and all turned out of the verandah to look. He
had only a switch in his hand ; when he came
to the creek he took it at a fly, and then faced the
three -railed fence at the stable. He went over
here — over this very rail — and came down sitting as
square as if he was riding in the park, holding his
hat, too, in both hands." " How did he stop the
horse ? " " He jumped off on the straw heap here,
and fell on his legs like a cat." I had a slight pre-
vious acquaintance with the gentleman referred to,
whose whilom sobriquet of " Jack the Devil " was
fully deserved, as far as feats of horsemanship
were concerned. He rode equally well in a side-
saddle, and once at least defied the minions of the
law decorously attired in a lady's riding habit, with
hat, gloves, and whip to match.

92 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

To complete the " wild sports of the West "
flavour with which my fancy had invested Kilfera,
entered to us that night, travelling with horses,
one Mr. Crowe, evidently of kin to the " three
Mr. Trenches of Tallybash," popularly known as
" mad Crowe." Slightly eccentric to an unprejudiced
observer he appeared to be. He was a tall, fair-
haired, athletic fellow, and he had not been half
an hour in the house before, after gifting all his
horses with impossible qualities and improbable pedi-
grees, he offered to row, wrestle, ride, drink, or fight
any one of the company for a liberal wager. He
finished off the evening's entertainment by volunteer-
ing and going outside to execute an imitation of an
Irish " keen " at a wake, a performance which was
likely to have cost him dear, as it offended the
sensibilities of several of the station hands, who were
strongly minded to arise and " hammer " him (Crowe)
for belittling their native land. " How happily the
days of Thalaba went by " at Kilfera ; indeed, I
regarded with complacency the somewhat protracted
muster of the Strathbogie herd. However, one fine
day they were mustered and counted out to me,
mixed with the Devil's River contingent ; blacks
and brindles, yellows and strawberries, snaileys and
poleys, old and young, they were " a mixed herd "
in every sense. But cattle were cattle in those days.
So I bade farewell to my kind friend and pleasant
acquaintances, and took the road for Port Fairy —
four hundred miles or so. But an odd hundred
leagues of a journey was nothing then. How the
country must have altered since those days. No
Bcechworth diggings — Castlemaine, Sandhurst, and

ix KILFERA 93

Ballarat all in the " forest primeval " stage, innocent
of cradle and pick, windlass and bucket. Quartz
indeed ! The first time it was mentioned in my
hearing was by James Irvine, who was chaffing
Captain Bunbury about the quality of his run on
the Grampians, and averring that the only chance
of his cattle getting fat was in the event of their
being able to live on quartz. Quartz, quotha ! I
hardly knew what it meant, save that it was a kind
of rock. Heavens ! Could I have foreseen how
closely it was to be interwoven with my destiny —
with all our destinies, for the matter of that !

It was the autumn season, and the way was
pleasant enough, after we left the sunless glens and
darksome mountain - sides of Strathbogie. We
passed Seven Creeks homestead, then, or somewhat
later, the property of Mr. William Forlonge. He,
like the rest of us, did not know when he was well
off, and must move northward evermore, towards
the great Saltbush Desert, that false Eldorado, which,
like the loadstone mountain in the Arabian tale, has
attracted and ruined so many a life, swallowed how
many a fortune ! However, nil desperandum is
his motto ; and if fortune favours the brave, the plucky
veteran of the pastoral army should come out well
in the end.

By easy stages we fared on till we came to
Kilmore. That flourishing city, as I suppose it calls
itself now, was then chiefly noted for its mud, the
depth and blackness of which were truly remarkable.
A few potato-growing farms and the usual comple-
ment of public-houses made up the town. There I
lost two horses, a serious and melancholy occurrence

94 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

which was likely to interfere with our march. I
left the cattle to come on, and resolved to ride to
Melbourne to find them or get others. I knew they
were likely to " make " in that direction, about the
Upper Plenty.

At Kinlochewe I encountered the late Mr.
Dalmahoy Campbell. He condoled with me. How
pleasant is a sympathetic manner from an older man
to a youngster ! I have never forgotten those who,
in my youth, were kindly and tolerant. He gave
me the advice of an experienced overlander, and
promised to write to a friend in the neighbourhood
to look out for the runaways.

At the next stage I encountered my old friend
Fred Burchett, late of "The Gums," another Port
Fairy man, luckily also bound that way with a herd
of cows and calves — the latter given in — which he
had purchased from Mr. Shelley, at Tumut. His
cattle were just ahead, and he proposed that we
should join forces at Keilor, and journey together
the rest of the way. Nothing could be nicer.
I forgot my griefs. " Lost horses," like " lost
sheep," produce acute suffering while they last ;
but the agony abates, as Macaulay said. I spent
the evening with him, and next day went on to
Melbourne.

Poor dear Fred ! The kindest, the best-tempered,
the most humorous of men ! How many a laugh
we had together ! It has always been a grief to me
that he died before the advent of Bret Hartc or
Mark Twain ! How he would have revelled in
their inimitable touches, their daring drolleries, their
purest pathos. A well-read man and a fair scholar,

ix K1LFERA 95

his was a mind nearly related to that of Charles
Lamb, of whose wondrous semitones of mirth and
melancholy he had the fullest appreciation. He,
though living fifty miles away, was one of the
" Dunmore mob," and aided generally in the sym-
posia which were there enjoyed. It was a great
stroke of luck our being able to join forces, and I
looked forward to the rest of the journey as quite a
pleasant picnic party.

I did not get my truant horses (they were
ultimately recaptured), but I foraged up other re-
mounts and rejoined my cattle, with which I made
a cut across country via Deep Creek, Woodlands,
and Keilor, then the property of Mr. J. B. Watson,
and exhibiting no foreshadowing of a railway station.
Mr. Burchett was only one stage ahead, I was told.
At the Little River I overtook him. This was his
observation on that eccentric watercourse. Scanning
with an eye of deepest contemplation its cavernous
channel and apparently perfect freedom from the
indispensable element, he thus delivered himself:
" They call this the Little River. Well they may !
It's the smallest blooming river / ever came across !
Why, we had hard work to get water enough in it
to boil our kettle with ! "

After this amalgamation everything went prosper-
ously. We had plenty of driving power, and the
cattle strung along the road daily with comparatively
nimble feet. Something of this cheerfulness may be
attributed to the fact that we had ceased to camp
or watch them. Judging correctly that after so
long a trail they would be indisposed to ramble,
we left them out at night, and slept the sleep

96 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

of the just. At daylight they were always well
within view, generally lying down, and half-an-hour's
work put them all together. Fred was always averse
to early exercise, so we compromised matters by his
lending me his one-eyed cob, " The Gravedigger," so
called from a partial resemblance to the animal in-
cautiously acquired by the Elder in " Sam Slick "
at a Lower Canadian horse fair. " They're a simple
people, those French ; they don't know much about
horses ; their priests keeps it from 'em." This
quotation Fred had always in his mouth, and as
" The Gravedigger " was not quite what he appeared
to be, a perfectly -shaped and well-mannered cob,
there certainly was a resemblance. One of his
peculiarities, probably arising from defective vision,
was an occasional paroxysm of unreasonable fear,
accompanied by backjumping, which had occasion-
ally unseated his master and others. One day,
however, Fred rode into camp with a triumphant
expression, having just had a stand-up fight with
" The Gravedigger." " He tried all he knew, confound
him ! " he explained, " but he couldn't shift me an
inch. I had too much mud on my boots." This
novel receipt for horsemanship was comprehensible
when we glanced at the amount of solid western
mud disposed not only on the boots, but upon his
whole person and apparel. I had no compunction,
therefore, in taking it out of " The Gravedigger " in
those early morning gallops, and he was decidedly
less unsocial for the rest of the day in consequence.

The only bad night we had was just before we
came to the Leigh River. There we were amid " pur-
chased land," that bane of the old-world pastoralist,

ix K1LFERA 97

so had to watch all night and keep our horses in
hand, which was unprecedented.

When daylight broke my comrade said, with an
air of tremendous deliberation, " The men can bring
on the cattle well enough now, Rolf; suppose you
and I go and breakfast at the Leigh Inn ? " I
caught at the idea, and we rode on the seven miles
as happy as schoolboys at the idea of a real break-
fast with chops and steaks, eggs and buttered toast,
on a clean tablecloth. After a night's watching, too,
our appetites were something marvellous. Fred
related to me how on a previous occasion he had
originated this " happy thought," and, not to be
deficient of every adjunct to luxurious enjoyment,
had ordered a bath, and borrowed a clean shirt from
the landlord. We contented ourselves with the bath
on this turn.

As we sat in the pleasant parlour a couple of
hours later, serene and satisfied— I might say
satiated — reading the latest Port Phillip Patriot, we
saw the long string of cattle draw down a deep
gorge into the valley, and cross the river in front of
the house. Then we ordered out the horses, paid
our bill, and, with a sigh of gastronomic retrospect,
followed the trail across the plain.

H

CHAPTER X

OLD PORT FAIRY

Mr. BURCHETT was rather famous for combining
pleasure with business when travelling on the road
with stock. At times his experiments were thought
un peu risqucs. It was related of him and Mr. Alick
Kemp (I think) that finding themselves so near
Melbourne as the Saltwater River, in sole charge of
a mob of fat cattle from " The Gums," they held
council, and decided that the cattle would be all
right in a bend of the river till the morning, being
quiet and travel-worn. The friends then started for
Melbourne, where they went to the theatre and
otherwise enjoyed themselves. They came back
the first thing in the morning, to find the cattle
peacefully reposing, and as safe as houses. It might
well have been otherwise. There was a dismal tale
current in the district of the first mob of fat cattle
from Eumcralla — magnificent animals, elephants
in size, and rolling fat — stampeding at the sight of
a pedestrian, on the road to market, being lost, and,
as to the greater part, never recovered.

This time we decided to take "the Frenchman's"

chap, x OLD PORT FAIRY 99

road, past Crecy, a trifle monotonous, perhaps, — it
was all plain till you got to Salt Creek, — but
possessing advantages for so large a drove. We
reached an out-station of the Hopkins Hill property,
then owned by a Tasmanian proprietary, and man-
aged by " a fine old ' Scottish ' gentleman, all of the
olden time." We put the cattle into a small
mustering paddock, and retired to rest with great
confidence in their comfort and our own. About
midnight a chorus of speculative lowing and bellowing
acquainted us with the fact that they were all out.
An unnoticed slip-rail had betrayed us. We arose,
but could do nothing, and returned to our blankets.
Our rest, however, had been effectually broken.

" How did you sleep, Fred ? " was my query at
daylight.

" Well," meditatively, " I've had a quantity of
very inferior sleep" was his rejoinder.

At Nareeb Nareeb, the station then of Messrs.
Scott, Gray, and Marr, we, by permission, camped
for the purpose of separating our cattle, either by
drafting through the yard, or by " cutting out " on
horseback. After a brief trial of the latter method,
we decided for the stock-yard, there being a large
and well-planned one on the ground. But the mud !
— it was the merry month of May, or else June only,
and rain had fallen in sufficient quantities to make
millionaires now of all the squatters from Ballarat to
Bourke. We put on our oldest clothes, armed
ourselves with sticks, and resolutely faced it. What
figures we were at nightfall ! We smothered a
few head, but the work was done. Our enter-
tainers had a short time since mustered their whole

ioo OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

herd, and sold them in Adelaide. We heard some
of their road stories. In crossing the great marshes
which lie to the north-west of Mount Gambier, they
had to carry their collie dogs on horseback before
them for miles.

We had nothing quite so bad as this, but after
we parted next day, Fred for " The Gums," and in
cheering proximity to the Mount Rouse stony rises,
the best fattening, and withal best sheltered, winter
country in the west, I envied him his luck. I had
farther to go, and when I arrived my homestead was
situated upon an island, with leagues of water around
it in every direction.

To " tail " or herd cattle daily in such weather
was impossible, so both herds were turned out, and
by dint of reasonable " going round " and general
supervision, they took kindly to their new quarters.

Fred, I remember, told me that his cattle went
bodily into the " Mount Rouse stones," which by no
means belonged to his run, and there abode all the
winter. He did not trouble his head much about
them till the spring, when they came in, of course, as
mustering commenced. There were no fences then,
and no man vexed himself about such a trifle as a
few hundred head of a neighbour's cattle being on
his run.

On our way we returned to and camped oppo-
site Hopkins Hill station homestead. A neat
cottage in those days, slightly different from the
present mansion. Thence I think to Mr. Joseph
Ware's of Minjah, a cattle station which had not
been very long bought from Messrs. Plummer and
Dent, who had purchased from the Messrs. Boldcn

x OLD PORT FAIRY 101

Brothers. Then past Smylie and Austin's to
Kangatong, where dwelt Mr. James Dawson.

We remained at Kangatong for a day, so as to
give Joe Burge time to come and meet us, which he
did, considerably lightening my labours and anxieties
thereby. Thence to Dunmore, which was " as
good as home." The next day saw the whole lot
safe in a big brush-yard, which Joe Burge had
thoughtfully prepared for their reception, thinking
it would do to plant with potatoes in the spring.
And a capital crop there was !

I always think that the years intervening between
1846 and the diggings— that is, the discovery of
gold at the Turon, in New South Wales, in 1850,
and at Ballarat in 185 1 — were the happiest of the
pastoral period. There was a good and improving
market for all kinds of stock. Labour, though not
over-plentiful, was sufficient for the work necessary
to be done. The pastures were to a great extent
under-stocked, so that there were reserves of grass
which enabled the squatter to contend success-
fully with the occasional dry seasons. There was
inducement to moderate enterprise, without allure-
ment to speculation. The settlement of the country
was progressing steadily. Agricultural and pastoral
occupation moved onward in lines parallel to one
another. There was no jostling or antagonism.
Each of the divisions of rural labour had its facilities
for legitimate development. There were none of
the disturbing forces which have assumed such
dangerous proportions in these latter days. No
studied schemes of resistance or circumvention were
thought of by the squatter. No spiteful agrarian

102 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

invasion, no blackmailing, no sham improvements
were possible on the part of the farmer.

From time to time portions of land specially-
suited for agricultural settlement were surveyed
and subdivided by the Government. On these,
as a matter of course, when sold by auction at some
advance upon upset price, according to quality, was
a purely agricultural population settled. It had
not then occurred to the squatter, hard set to find
money for his necessary expenditure upon labour
and buildings, stock and implements, to pay down
£1 per acre or more for ordinary grazing ground.
The farmer, as a rule, sold him flour and forage,
supplied some of the needful labour, and hardly
more came into competition with his pastoral
neighbour than if he had lived in Essex or Kent.

I can answer in my own person for the friendly
feeling which then existed between the two great
primitive divisions of land-occupation. The Port
Fairy farmers were located upon two large blocks,
the Farnham and Belfast surveys, about ten miles from
the nearest and not more than fifty from the more
distant squattages. " The Grange," afterwards known
by its present name of " Hamilton," was then part of
a station, and was not surveyed and subdivided till
some years after.

The majority of the squatters found it cheaper to
buy flour and potatoes from the farmers than to
grow them. Most of us grew our own hay and
oats ; but in after years our requirements were
largely supplemented from Port Fairy, even in these
easily produced crops. In return the farmers
purchased milch cows, as well as steers for breaking

x OLD PORT FAIRY 103

to plough and team ; and if these, with the increase
of the female cattle, strayed on to the runs, they were
always recoverable at muster time, and no threat of
impounding was ever made. The agricultural area
was enlarged when needed. To this no squatter
objected, nor, to my knowledge, was such land
purchased by other than bona -fide farmers. I
cannot call to mind any feud or litigation between
squatter and farmer having its inception in the land
question.

Both classes met alike at race meetings and
agricultural Shows ; and, as far as could be noticed,
there was none of the smouldering feeling of
jealousy regarding the prevalence of latifmidia,
or other casus belli, which has of late years blazed
up and raged so furiously.

Wages were not high in those days, and yet
the men were contented. They certainly saved
more money than they do now. They managed to
acquire stock, and after taking up a bit of unoccu-
pied country, became squatters, and wealthy ones
too. Joe Burge and his wife received ,£30 a year.
Old Tom had 10s. a week ; lodging and rations, in
which matters, at that time, we shared much alike,
were included.

I recall, moreover, instances of genuine attachment
as exhibited by old family servants to the children
of their masters, though it is generally asserted that
this particular kind of faithful retainership is confined
to those who are happy enough to be born in Europe.

Mr. John Cox, of Werrongourt, supplied one
instance, at least, which illustrates the feeling so
honourable to both master and servant. A shepherd

104 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

named Buckley had saved sufficient money in his
service wherewith to purchase a small flock of sheep.
He found a run for them on a corner of the Mount
Rouse country, where they increased to the respect-
able number of 14,000. He told me and others
that, as Mr. Cox had in the first instance given him
facilities for investing his savings profitably, and in
every way taken an interest in his welfare, he was
resolved to leave his whole property to " Master
Johnny," the second son, then a fine ingenuous lad
of twelve or thirteen. Buckley was a bachelor, I
may state, and had presumably no other claims
upon his fortune.

But, about a year before his death, he received
intelligence that a sister, of whom he had not heard
since his arrival in Tasmania, had emigrated to
America, and was still living. He consulted a
mutual friend, and was told that Mr. Cox was the
last man who would wish, or indeed allow him to
neglect his own kin. " I must leave Master Johnny
something," he said ; and when the old man passed
away, and his property was chiefly devised to his
sister, a sum of ^1000 was duly bequeathed to
Mr. John Cox, jun.

Mr. Cox was unfortunately in failing health at that
time. The station, Werrongourt, was sold to Mr.
Mooncy, the great cattle-dealer, for the magnificent (?)
price of £5 per head ! It was the first rise in cattle
after the gold of 185 1, and anything over ^3 per
head was thought a high figure. Mr. Cox, however,
was anxious to visit the old country, chiefly on
account of his health. The change was unavailing.
He died on the voyage, to the great grief of the

x OLD PORT FAIRY 105

district, where all revered him as a high-minded, hon-
ourable country gentleman. He was, indeed, a worthy
son of the good south land, a staunch friend, a true
patriot, and as a magistrate famed for the unswerving
justice which equally regarded rich and poor.
Among his humbler countrymen, " Mr. Cox said it "
was sufficient to close any argument, whatever might
be the interest involved.

" Master Johnny," some years after, elected to
enter the German army. He and a younger brother
fought in the Franco-Prussian war ; they were both
wounded at Sedan, where their mother, an Australian
by birth {nee Miss Frances Cox, of Hobartville),
attended them till their recovery, continuing her
unselfish labours by acting as hospital nurse until
the end of the war.

The brothers were, no doubt, promoted. They
were in the cavalry, as became Australians, and
most probably now, as Baron and Count von Coxe,
are adding fresh branches to a wide-spreading and
generally flourishing family tree.

When " Master Johnny," one fresh spring morn-
ing, rode down to Squattlesea Mere from Werrongourt,
bringing two couples of draft foxhounds from his
father's pack, to be sent to an intending M.F.H. in
another colony, we little dreamed of the ranks in
which he was to ride, the sport in which he was to
share, ere the second decade should have passed over
our heads.

CHAPTER XI

PORTLAND BAY

SQUATTLESEA MERE was about ten miles from the
coast, and equidistant from the towns of Port Fairy
and Portland, the latter lying about thirty miles west-
ward. My first visit to it was on the occasion of a
sale of some fat cattle to Mr. Henty for the use of
the whalers — who were then still extant. Of course
there were plenty of bullocks at Muntham, but it
was hardly worth while to send so far for so small
a lot. I was ready to deliver, and not indisposed for
the trip and adventure myself.

So, having been helped off the run by Joe Burge,
I started with my beeves, and made the journey
safely to the slaughter - yards, which were then
a few miles on the hither side of the town, near
the beach. The road lay through the marshes for
five or six miles, then through the stringy-bark
forest, whence I emerged on an open sandy tract
known as " the heath." Such land is not uncommon
in the vicinity of Portland and west of Port Fairy ;
indeed, the greater part of the country between
Portland and the wondrous downs of the Wannon

chap, xi PORTLAND BA Y 107

consists of this undesirable formation alternately with
stringy-bark forest.

The soil upon the heath is pure sand of a white
or greyish colour. Small lagoons, thickly covered
with dark-brown reeds, are spread over the surface ; it
is mostly firm riding ground, though very indifferent
pasture. Several species of epacris grow there, the
pink and white blossoms of which were gay and
even brilliant in spring. Open as a plain, and,
apart from a question of grass, an effective contrast
to the endless eucalyptus. A few miles of heath —
the forest again — and we come to Darlot's Creek,
narrow, but running deep and strong, like a New
Zealand river.

This singular stream must in some way receive
the water of the great Eumeralla marshes, which,
as they have no visible outlet, probably filter
through the lava country, from which, near Lake
Condah, Darlot's Creek issues without previous
notice.

Summer and winter this cheery little stream,
from twenty to fifty feet wide, and hardly ever
less than from six to ten feet deep, rushes whirl-
ing and eddying to the sea. We cross at a
stone causeway, over which the water runs, and in
another mile or two come to the Fitzroy River.
This is a true Australian watercourse, and has the
usual abruptly alternating depth of channel. Both
streams debouch on a sandy sea-beach, a few miles
from Portland. The channel mouths are continually
shifting, and as the main road from Port Fairy
then crossed them, the depth of water was often
unpleasantly altered, to the manifest danger of

io8 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

travellers. Many a misadventure was credited to
the " mouth of the Fitzroy," and more than one poor
fellow, when the tide was high, essaying to cross with
a heavy swag, lost the number of his mess. The
proper thing for non-pedestrians at that time was to
ride or drive some distance into the waves, where the
depth was shallower ; but there were said to be quick-
sands, in which horse or wheel might sink, and, with
the surf breaking over, in such case the look-out was
bad.

Before reaching this part of the road, at an
elevated point of the heath, a full view of the ocean
burst suddenly on my view. What a sight it was !
A world of forest greenery lay north, east, and west ;
on the south the tumbling billows of the unbounded
sea. Far as eye could reach was the wondrous
plain of the South Pacific, stretching away to the
farthest range of vision, where it was lost in a soft,
shimmering haze. Did I clap my hands and shout
" Thalatta ! Thalatta ! " like the author of Eothen ?
I had the inclination to do it, I know.

In the distance, lying north-west, were the cliffs
and noble bay of Portland — not a very grand town.,
but noteworthy as the point dappui whence those
representative Englishmen and distinguished colonists,
the Hentys, commenced the Anglo-Saxon conquest
of Australia Felix.

I had the pleasure of knowing these gentlemen ;
and the longer I live, the stronger becomes my
conviction that the genuine Englishman, compacted
as he is of diverse races, holding the strong points of
each, is the best " all-round man " the earth affords.
And the Hentys, as a family, have demonstrated my

xi PORTLAND BA Y 109

proposition perhaps more completely than any other
which ever landed on our shores. For, consider
what manner of colonisers they were ! Explorers,
sailors, whalers, farmers, squatters, merchants, poli-
ticians (Mr. William Henty was chief secretary of
Tasmania) — in all these different avocations the
brothers were of approved excellence. Indeed, each
displayed in his own personality an aptitude for the
whole range of accomplishments.

Stalwart and steadfast were they in body and
mind, well fitted to contend with the rude forces of
nature, and still ruder individuals, among which their
lot was chiefly cast in those days. But withal
genial, hilarious, and in their moments of relaxation
prone to indulge in the full swing of those high
animal spirits which, for the most part, accompany a
robust bodily and mental organisation.

Always familiar with the great industry of stock-
breeding both in Tasmania and their new home, they
imported, from their earliest occupation, the very
choicest stud animals, as well as the best implements
in all departments of husbandry. " Little John,"
" Wanderer," imported thoroughbreds, were at one
time in their possession. Suffolks and Lincolns
were not lacking to ensure production of waggon
horses, and in general effect to speed the plough.
And I saw at Muntham the first English coaching
sire that my eyes had rested upon — a grand
upstanding bay horse, with a well-shaped head, lofty
forehand, and clean, fiat legs. I remember describ-
ing him to a horse-loving friend as an enlarged
thoroughbred in appearance — a description which
would hold good of some of the better sort of

no OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chai\

coachers of the present day, the only doubt being
whether, having regard to the abnormal shapes of
some of our modern racehorses, the coacher's reputa-
tion might not suffer by the comparison.

At the time of which I speak Mr. Edward Henty
was at Muntham — that Australian " promised land "
of rolling downs, hill and dale, all equally fertile, well
grassed, well watered ; favoured as to climate, soil,
and situation ; the only drawback being that the
great grass crop, summer-ripened, was occasionally
ignited in a dry autumn, and, like a prairie fire,
swept all before it. In a later day preparation was
made for such a contingency, and light waggons,
with adequate teams known as the " fire-horses,"
kept ready to start at a moment's notice for the
warning smoke-column. Mr. Frank Henty abode
at Merino Downs, the name of which explains the
early attention paid by him to the chief source of
Australian wealth. Mr. Stephen Henty had his
residence in the town of Portland, where at that time
he was the leading merchant, and, excepting Mr.
Blair, the police magistrate, the leading inhabitant.

No more delightful country home ever existed
than the wide-verandahed spacious bungalow, from
the windows of which the view was unbroken of
the waters of the bay. A well -trimmed garden
hedge hid the intervening street and slope to the
beach without obstructing the view. There, if any-
where, was to be found true earthly happiness, if such
can ever be predicated of this lower world and
its inhabitants.

A promising family, full of health, spirits, and
intelligence ; parents and children alike overflowing

xi PORTLAND BAY ill

with kindness ; hospitality unostentatiously extended
both to friends and acquaintances, residents and
strangers ; a noble property gradually and surely
increasing in value ; family affection exhibited in
its purest form. But

It is written on the rose —
Alas ! that there, decay
Should claim from love a part, —
From love a part !

Where are now the energetic, kindly husband
and father, the merry boys and girls, the tender
mother, then sheltered and united in that most happy
home ? The mournfullest task of memory lies in
realising how large a toll is yielded in a few fleeting
years to the unsparing tax-gatherer Death.

Portland, although devoid of the fertile lands
which encompass Port Fairy and Warrnambool, had
yet beauties of its own. Its situation was romantic.
Lofty cliffs rose from the beach, and from many a
picturesque eminence the residences of the towns-
people looked on the broad ocean and the peaceful
waters of the bay. Still were visible when I first
saw Portland the grass-grown furrows turned by
the hand of Edward Henty, who had not only
accomplished that highly important feat — vitally
necessary, indeed, in a settlement poorly provided
with grain — but put together the plough with which
the first rite to Ceres was performed. In those
days a deep-rutted, miry road connected the port
with the rich lands of the Wannon — forty miles of
sore affliction to the driver of any species of vehicle,
bullock drays included. Now the rail has simplified
all difficulties. From the glorious " downs country "

112 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

to the shore is but a journey of hours — from
Hamilton to Melbourne how trifling a stage !

What if the gallant explorer, the immortal Major
Mitchell, could return and look upon the network
of farms, the metalled roads, the railway terminus,
the telegraph, the mail-coach ! How would he recall
the day when, with his toil-worn party, he reached
Portland, and, unaware of the presence there of way-
farers other than themselves, took the Hentys' settle-
ment for one of an escaped gang of bushrangers !
How little can we forecast the future in these days
of rapid development and almost magical national
growth ! Besides the Messrs. Henty the principal
Wannon squatters were the Winters (George, Samuel,
and Trevor), men of remarkable intellect ; the
Messrs. Coldham were at Grassdale, where, indeed,
they have the good fortune still to remain ; Lang
and Elms were at Lyne, near neighbours to Mount
Napier ; Acheson Ffrench at Monivae, near
Hamilton ; John Robertson Nowlan, who rented
Murndal for some years from Mr. Samuel Pratt
Winter. He afterwards went into partnership with
Captain Stanley Carr, an ex-military man domiciled
in Silesia, who imported Saxon merino sheep, and
had a very proper idea of the " coming event " in
Australia — the great rise and development of the
merino interest. Farther on, the Hunters (Alick,
Jemmy, and latterly Frank and Willie) were at
Kalangadoo, Mount Gambier, with Willie Mitchell,
Evelyn Sturt, and John Meredith as next-
door neighbours. Charles Mackinnon and his
partner Watson — am I trenching on sacred con-
fidences when I allude to the sobriquet " Jeeribong " ?

xi PORTLAND BAY 113

What a lot of splendid fellows, to be sure ! All the

men I have named were gentlemen by birth and

education. It may be imagined what a jolly, genial

society it was, what a luxurious neighbourhood, when

a few miles' ride was a certain find for culture, good

fellowship, and the warmest hospitality. While at

the race meetings at Portland and Port Fairy, when

these joyous comrades amalgamated confessedly for

enjoyment, as the old song has it —

And for that reason,

And for a season,

We'll be merry before we go,

there was a week's revelry fit for the gods on high
Olympus.

Not only from across the Adelaide border — for
Mount Gambier was on the farther side — did both
knights and squires wend their way in pilgrimage
to the Port Fairy revels, but from Trawalla and
Mount Emu, from Warranbeen, Ercildoune, and
Buninyong. Adolphus Goldsmith from Trawalla,
William Gottreaux from Lilaree, Philip Russell from
Carngham (I can hear him now ordering his gray
colt's legs to be bandaged the night he rode in),
Charley Lyon, Compton Ferrers, Alick Cuningham,
Will Wright. Ah !

We were a gallant company,
Riding o'er land, sailing o'er sea.

• • • ■ ♦

And some are dead and some are gone,
. . . ay di mi — Alhama !
And some are robbers on the hills,
That look along Epirus' valleys.

Well, perhaps not exactly. They abide on those hills

I

114 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

which overlook the winding Thames, and in the
season the Serpentine or historic Seine. Any robbery
they may engage in is getting the better of unwary
brethren at pool, or picking up the odds on the
favourite a trifle before the general public is taken
into the confidence of the stable.

It is hard to find a poet who expresses your
feelings and circumstances with precision. Yet even
Byron's friends and fellow-believers in Greek inde-
pendence have hardly had a more complete dispersion
than the comrades of that lost " Arcady the Blest."

We ought to have made the most of those days —
of the time which came " before the gold." We never
saw their like again. Then we tasted true happiness,
if such ever visits this lower world. Every one had
hope, encouragement, adequate stimulus to work, —
hard work which was well paid, — leading to enter-
prise, which year by year fulfilled the promise of
progress.

Nobody was too rich. No one was wealthy
enough to live in Melbourne. Each man had to be
his own overseer ; had to live at home. He was,
therefore, friendly and genial with his neighbours, on
whom he was socially dependent. No one thought
of going to Europe, or selling off and " cutting the
confounded colony," and so on. No ! there we
were, adscripti glebes as we thought, from a dozen or
so to a score of years. It was necessary for all to
make the best of it, and very cheery and contented
nearly everybody was.

In these days of universal fencing it seems curious
to think that from Portland Bay to Geclong, from
Geelong to Melbourne, was there never a fenced-in

xi PORTLAND BAY 115

estate — only the horse and bullock paddocks.
Tens of thousands of cattle were managed and con-
trolled by the stockman — as he was then called —
(stock-rider came later), with, perhaps, an assistant
black boy or white urchin of some sort. It was held
that in that respect the cattlemen had the best of it,
as one good stockman with occasional aid could look
after two or three thousand head of cattle — none of
our herds were over this number — whereas every
thousand or fifteen hundred sheep needed a shepherd,
great loss ensuing if the labour and tendance were
not provided.

The great industries of Port Fairy were agri-
culture on the one hand, and pastoral on the other.
The rich lands which lay westward of Warrnambool
were gradually sold, always after survey and by
auction, having been subdivided into moderate-sized
farms. These were purchased by resident farmers or
small capitalists who desired to try agriculture for an
occupation. There was a good market for produce,
and the fame of the Port Fairy wheat crop, as well
as that of the potato harvest, commenced to spread.

Than the lands on the banks of the Merai,
around Warrnambool, and between that town and
Port Fairy, none more fertile are known in Australia.
They enjoy the conditions of deep, rich loam, resting
on a substratum of tufa and limestone, with perfect
natural drainage. So friable, too, as to be ready for
the plough immediately after rain. Apparently of
an inexhaustible fertility, and lying near the sea,
which occasionally sends its spray over the wheat
sheaves, they are but little subject to frost. The
coast showers preserve the moisture of the soil, and,

n6 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

whether for grain, roots, or grass, prevent the dis-
astrous desiccation so unhappily common in the
fields and pastures of the interior.

As the farmer commenced to press closely upon
the pastoral Crown tenant, a certain soreness was
engendered, but no complaint of wrong-doing on the
part of the Government followed. The squatters
accepted the situation ; they did their best to lighten
the difficulty. Those who had high-class grazing or
arable lands bestirred themselves to buy as much
around the homestead as would serve to make a
moderate estate. The situation and climate being
undeniably good, they argued that they could make
as much out of a few thousand acres of freehold
as formerly from the whole area under an imperfect
tenure.

As a matter of fact, when the dreadful " auction
day" arrived, the greater portion of the menaced
squatters thus saved themselves. Men sympathised
with them, too, and did not bid too persistently
against the former Lord of the Waste, whose day of
dominion was over.

The nearest station to Port Fairy was Aringa,
the property of Mr. Ritchie. It was only distant
about four miles. Partly arable land, but possessing
more " stony rises " and oak ridges, it was capable of
growing excellent grass, but not likely to need the
plough.

The proprietor made an excellent survey of his
run, carefully excluding the more tempting agricultural
portions. And so judiciously did he purchase at
auction that he found himself the owner of twelve
or fourteen thousand acres of splendid grass land,

xi PORTLAND BAY 117

without a road through it, and therefore capable of
being enclosed within a ring fence. The average of
price was, I fancy, below 25s. per acre. After fencing
this truly valuable freehold, Mr. Ritchie discovered
that he could let it for such a yearly rental as would
enable him to live handsomely without the responsi-
bility of stock. Mr. Edols, of Geelong, was, I think,
the first tenant on a five years' lease, and ever since
that day Aringa has been a highly productive estate,
covered with a matted sward of clover and rye-grass,
adapted either for sheep or cattle, equally profitable
to farm or to let.

Yambuk, formerly the property of Lieutenant
Andrew Baxter, a retired military officer, did not
come off quite so well. But I fancy the present
proprietor, Mr. Suter, who has lived there since 1854,
or thereabouts, finds that he has a freehold sufficient
for all ordinary wants.

" Tarrone," lying to the eastward, was not distant
more than ten or twelve miles from Port Fairy. It
was occupied in those early days by another army
man, Lieutenant Chamberlain. Both of the ex-
militaires made exceptionally good squatters, refuting
the general experience which does not assign a
high rank as successful colonists to soldiers. With
enormous reed-beds and marshes, and a certain pro-
portion of stony rises and well-grassed open forest,
Tarrone was a model cattle run, carrying generally
between two and three thousand head of cattle. It
was a splendid tract of fattening country, and some
of the grandest drafts of bullocks that ever left the
West bore the Tarrone brand, " KB." It had
formerly belonged to Messrs. Kilgour and Besnard,

u8 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

but for alleged doing to death of aboriginals the
license of these gentlemen had been withdrawn. It
was subsequently granted to Mr. Chamberlain. The
paternal Government of New South Wales, until late
years, kept the whip-hand of the squatters by reason
of its power to withhold the only title by which we
held our lands, and occasionally, as in the case
referred to, the power was exercised. This run was
also assailed by the auctioneer's hammer, but being
strictly non-agricultural land, it retained virtually its
integrity as a grazing estate. " Tarrone " was the
station which suffered most on that day of fiery
wrath, long remembered as " Black Thursday." All
did so more or less ; but Mr. Chamberlain, who then
lived there, lost fences and homestead, house and
furniture, his household escaping barely with their
lives. For weeks previously the summer weather
had been hot and dry. There was, for a wonder,
a cessation of the coast showers. The fated morning
was abnormal — sultry and breezeless. The vaporous
sky became lurid, darksome — awful. More than one
terrified spectator believed that the Last Day had
come, and not altogether without reason. The whole
colony of Victoria was on fire at the same time, from
the western coast to the eastern range of the
Australian Alps. Farms and stations were burning
at Port Fairy and Portland. The wife and children
of a shepherd on the Upper Plenty rivulet, eastward
of Melbourne, were burned to death, nearly three
hundred miles in another direction. Far out to sea
passengers viewed with wonder and alarm a dense
black cloud overhanging the coast-line like a pall,
such as may have shrouded buried Pompeii when the

xi PORTLAND BAY 119

volcano heaved its fiery flood. Far from land
showers of ashes fell upon the decks of approaching
ships.

Though not without expectation of a larger bush-
fire than usual, we were chiefly unprepared as the
flame-wave rolled in over grass and forest from the
north. The fire travelled fast on the preceding night,
and the north-east wind rising to a gale towards mid-
day, the march of the Destroyer waxed resistless and
overpowering. Mr. Chamberlain told us afterwards
that, feeling indisposed for exertion, and unaware of
actual danger, he was lying down reading Vanity
Fair. So enthralled was he by Becky Sharp's
fascinations that he delayed going out to reconnoitre,
though uneasily conscious that the smoke-clouds
were thickening.

He went at length on foot. Then he saw, to
his astonishment, a wall of fire approaching the
homestead with appalling rapidity. He turned
and fled for his life, but had barely time to warn the
station hands when the devouring element swept after.
It was idle to resist in any ordinary method. The
flames seemed to leap from the tree tops, as they scaled
the trunks, then the higher branches, and were borne
on loose fragments of bark far ahead of the line of fire.

In a quarter of an hour each fence, building, and
shed of a well-improved homestead was in flames.
So great was the heat that after the first flight of
the inmates from the dwelling-house, it was impossible
to re-enter. Nothing of the contents was saved but
a desk and a picture, while the household stood awe-
stricken in a plot of garden vegetation, moistening
their parched lips from time to time, suffocating

120 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap, xi

with heat and smoke, and holding much doubt as to
their ultimate safety. As they gazed around they
could see the wild birds dropping dead from the
forest trees, the kangaroos leaping past with singed
and burning fur, while cattle, bellowing with fear and
astonishment, dashed wildly to the river-bank, to
plunge into the deeper pools.

At Dunmore a better look-out had been kept.
By the united efforts of the establishment the
flames were arrested on the very verge of the home-
stead ; but so close and desperate was the contest
that the garden gate was burned, and Mr. Macknight
was carried indoors insensible, having fainted from
the severity of the protracted struggle. Had he died
it would not have been the only instance on record
of the danger of over-exertion with the thermo-
meter at more than a hundred and fifty degrees
of Fahrenheit in the sun.

We at Squattlesea Mere were more lucky than
our neighbours, inasmuch as the fire took a turn
southward, behind Dunmore, and continued its de-
vastating progress through the heaths and scrubs
which lay on the north bank of the Shaw. It was
in a manner shunted away from our homestead by the
region of marsh country which stretched around
and beyond it.

CHAPTER XII

GRASMERE

WHAT tales came in from far and near of ruin and
disaster — farms and stations, huts and houses, rich
and poor ! — all had equally suffered in the Great
Fire, long remembered throughout the length and
breadth of the land. However, a bush fire is not so
bad as a drought. A certain destruction of pasture
and property takes place, but there is not the wide-
spread devastation among the flocks and herds
caused by a dry season. Heavy rain set in a
short time afterwards, in our district at any rate.
The burned pastures were soon emerald-green, and
Mr. Chamberlain, who had been compelled to flee to
Port Fairy homeless, and there abide till a cottage
was built at Tarrone, made sale of a thousand head
of fat cattle in one draft before the year was out.

If the system of moderate alienation of Crown
lands then prevalent could have been carried out in
after years — viz. the disposing of agricultural areas
from time to time, as the demand increased — no
great harm would have accrued to the pastoral
interest, and the legitimate wants of the farmers

122 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

would have been fully supplied. The owners of
the stations referred to, as the wave of population
approached, chiefly applied themselves to secure the
purely pastoral portions of the runs, leaving the
arable land for its legitimate occupiers. No squatter
was then suddenly ruined, while all intending farmers
were satisfied. Good feeling was maintained, as each
class of producers recognised the necessity for com-
promise, when the mixed occupation had become a
fact. It was far otherwise when the whole land lay
open to the selector, who was thus enabled to enter
at will into lands which other men's labour had
rendered valuable, or to exact a price for refraining.

In good sooth, the pioneer squatter of that day
had many and divers foes to contend with. Having
done battle with one army of Philistines, another
straightway appeared from an unexpected quarter.
We had had trouble with our aboriginals : a canine
" early Australian," the dingo, had likewise disturbed
our rest. He used to eat calves, with perhaps an
occasional foal, so we waged war against him.
We were not up to strychnine in those days. The
first letter I saw in print on the subject was from
the ill-fated Horace Wills, whose sheep had been
suffering badly at the time. He had come across
the panacea somewhere, and lost no time in re-
commending it to his brother squatters. With the
help of our kangaroo dogs, and an occasional
murder of puppies, we pretty well cleared them out.
As cattlemen, taking a selfish view of the case, we
need not have been so enthusiastic. Though he
killed an occasional calf, the wild hound did good
service in keeping down the kangaroo, which, after

xii GRASMERE 123

his extinction, proved a far more expensive and
formidable antagonist.

We had more than once seen a small pack of
dingoes surrounding an " old man kangaroo " in
the winter time, when from weight and the soft
nature of the ground he is unable to run fast.
They also kill the " joeys " or young ones, when too
small to run independently, though not to feed. I
saw this exemplified on one occasion when returning
late from a day's stock-riding. There was still light
enough to distinguish surrounding objects, when a
doe kangaroo crossed the track in front of me,
hard pressed by a red dog close at her haunches.
At first I took the pursuer to be a kangaroo dog,
but seeing at a second glance that it was a dingo,
I pulled up to watch the hunt. The forest was
clear ; rather to my surprise he gained upon her,
and, springing forward, nearly secured a hold. She
just got free, and not till then did she rid herself of
the burden with which she was handicapped, and
without which the dog could not have " seen the
way she went," as the stock-riders say.

" Needs must when the devil drives " is an ancient
proverb, and some idea of corresponding force must
have passed through her marsupial mind as she cast
forth from her pouch poor "Joey" — a good-sized
youngster of more than a month old. He recog-
nised the situation, for he scudded away with all
his might, but was caught and killed by " Br'er "
Dingo before I could interfere, his mother sitting up,
a few yards off, making a curious sound indicative
of wrath and fear. I somewhat unfairly deprived
dingo of his supper by placing it carefully out of his

124 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

reach in a tree ; but in the kangaroo battues which
ensued, it more than once occurred to rne that I
was interfering with a natural law, of which I did
not then foresee the consequences.

On the eastern side of Port Fairy lay Grasmere,
which on my first introduction to the district, in
1843, was the property of the Messrs. Bolden
Brothers. Pleasantly situated on the banks of the
Merai, its limestone slopes formed beautiful paddocks
for the blue-blooded Bates shorthorns, of which these
gentlemen were, at that time, the sole Australian
proprietors. They had also a share in the Merang
and Moodiwarra runs jointly with Messrs. Farie
and Rodger. It was, however, arranged that they
should remove their cattle within a certain time,
and, I think, early in 1 844 the arrangement was
carried out. These enterprising and distinguished
colonists also owned Minjah, then known as "Bolden's
sheep station," now Mr. Joseph Ware's magnificent
freehold estate.

A considerable sum of money for those days had
been spent, as early as 1843, at Grasmere, when the
Rev. John Bolden and I rode in there, having been
piloted from the " lower station," where we had
spent the previous night, by a grizzled old stock-
rider hight Jack Keighran. It was pitch dark, and
I was glad to hear the kangaroo dogs set up their
chorus, and to know that we were at home. Messrs.
Lemuel and Armyne Bolden were then the resident
partners.

In the morning I was able to look around at my
leisure, and as I had just become inoculated with
the shorthorn complaint, which I have never wholly

xii GRASMERE 125

lost, I had a treat. The paddocks, in size from
fifty to two hundred acres, were securely enclosed
with three-rail fences, and were well grassed, watered,
and sheltered.

I have never ceased to regret that the low prices
which ruled then and for several years afterwards,
coupled with the failure of a well-considered experi-
ment in shipping salt beef in tierces from Melbourne,
should have caused the breaking up of that model
stud farm, the dispersion of a priceless shorthorn
tribe. I had been previously introduced to " Lady
Vane," a granddaughter of " Second Hubback," and
her inestimable calf " Young Mussulman," at Heidel-
berg. Here I had the pleasure of seeing them
again, if not on their native heath, still in pastures
befitting their high lineage and aristocratic position.
Also a former daughter of Lady Vane and the Duke
of Northumberland. There grazed the imported
cows Lady and Matilda ; the imported Bates bulls
Fawdon, Tommy Bates, Pagan, and Mahomet.
Besides these a score or more of Circular Head
shorthorn cows, then perhaps the purest cattle which
the colony could furnish.

No pains or expense were spared in the keep
and rearing of these valuable — nay invaluable cattle
— for which, indeed, high prices, for that period,
had been paid in England. Everything seemed to
promise well for the enterprise — so incalculably
advantageous, in time to come, to the herds of
Australia. And yet ere the year had rolled round
the whole establishment had been disposed of to the
Messrs. Manifold. The bulk of the herd cattle went
to Messrs. John and Peter Manifold, of Lake

126 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

Purrumbect, with a proportion of the bulls. The
shorthorns were purchased by the late Mr. Thomas
Manifold, who for some years after made Grasmere
his residence. In the Spring Valley, a lovely
natural meadow, were located a lot of beautiful
heifers, the progeny of picked " H over 5 " cows
(the Hawdon brand), and then the best bred herd in
New South Wales.

I was present at the purchase of Minjah from
the Messrs. Bolden by Mr. Plummer, of the firm of
Plummer and Dent, which took place in 1843.
With him came Mr. Richard Sutton, as amicus
curice, in the interest of Mr. Plummer, who was a
newly-arrived Englishman — verdant as to colonial
investments. There was a certain amount of argu-
ment ; but finally Minjah was sold with fifty head
of Spring Valley heifers and a young bull, the price,
I think, being £5 per head for the heifers, £50 for
the bull, and the station given in. This was the
origin of the famous Minjah herd. Grasmere and
Spring Valley, as also the run of Messrs. Strong and
Foster, were subsequently " cut up " and sold. They
were too near the town of Warrnambool to escape
that fate. Mr. Manifold saved part of his run, but
Messrs. Strong and Foster were less fortunate, losing
nearly the whole of " St. Mary's." It was not sold,
I think, until the gold year, 185 1, which accounted
for its wholesale annexation. This is the only in-
stance I can recall in that district of the proprietor
losing his run in its entirety. The land, however,
was exceptionally good, and unmixed with ordinary
pastoral country.

The Messrs. Allan Brothers — John, William, and

xii CRASMERE 127

Henry — held Tooram, and the country generally
on the east bank of the Hopkins, where that river
flows into the sea. It was a picturesque place,
having a fine elevated site, and overlooking the
broad, beautiful stream not far from its mouth. I
thought they should have called it "Allan Water," but
apparently it had not so occurred to them. The
country was more romantic than profitable, it was
said, in those days, being only moderately fattening,
and wonder was often expressed that, having the
rich western country all before them when they
arrived in 1 841, or thereabouts, they did not make a
better choice. But pioneers and explorers are often
contented with country inferior to that which is
picked up by those who come after.

The real secret is that explorers are far more
interested in the enterprise and adventure than in
the promised land which should be the reward of
their labours. They delight in the wilderness, and
often undervalue Canaan. No spot could have been
more suitably situated than the locale the Messrs.
Allan selected for ministering to such tastes.

On the south was the coast-line, stretching away
to far Cape Otway. On that side they had no
neighbours, and Mr. John Allan, who was an intrepid
bushman, made hunting and exploring excursions in
that direction. I paid them a visit in the early
part of 1844. I regarded it as a perfectly lovely
place, with all kinds of Robinson Crusoe possibilities.
Wrecks, savages, pathless woods, an island solitude
— it was on the road to nowhere ; nothing was
wanting to enable the possessors to enjoy perfect
felicity. The romantic solitude has, however, of late

128 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

years been invaded by a cheese-factory. No doubt
it supports a population, but the charm of the
frowning, surf- beaten headland looking over the
majestic, limitless ocean — of the broad reaches of the
reed-fringed river — of the south-eastern trail leading
into " a waste land where no one comes, or hath
come since the making of the world " — must be fled
for ever.

" St. Ruth's " was the name given to a tract of
country which joined Squattlesea Mere on the
western boundary. I believe the name and the
reputation of the district sold the place more than
once, which was hard upon the purchasers, for it
was one of the worst runs in Australia. It com-
prised a few decent limestone ridges — with some
passable flats, but the " balance " was scrub, fern,
swamp, stringy-bark forest, and heath. Considering
it lay in a good district, and enjoyed a fine climate,
it was astonishing how it contrived to be so bad.
If it did not ruin everybody that was ever connected
with it, it was because they had no money to lose, or
that exceptional amount of acuteness which enabled
them to dodge hard fortune by passing it on.

It was taken up, soon after our performance in
that line, by Messrs. Cay and Kaye, sometimes
called English and Scotch Kay. The former of these
gentlemen, Mr. Robert Cay, was " shown " the run
by the Yambuk people, when he rode over a very
small bit of it, and, going back to his homestead on
the Lodden, sent a trustworthy man up with two
or three hundred head of cattle, who formally
occupied it.

A hut and yard were built — the cattle broken in,

xii GRASMERE 129

more or less — and the occupation was complete.
A year or two after Mr. Cay sold out to Mr.
Adolphus Goldsmith, of Trawalla, for a reasonable
price, the cattle to be taken by book-muster. Mr.
Goldsmith had a herd at Trawalla, which was being
encroached upon by the sheep. He required room,
and bought this curiously unprofitable place to put
them on. The Port Fairy district, I should say,
had a great reputation ; so had the adjoining runs.
Mr. Goldsmith could not imagine that a run so near
Tarrone, Yambuk, and Dunmore could be so very
bad. Buyer and seller rode over it together. At
the end of the day Mr. Cay said, " Look here, old
fellow ! I never saw half as much of the run before.
I had no idea it was such an infernal hole, I give
you my word. If you like you can throw up your
bargain ! "

"Oh no!" quoth Dolly, "I'll stick to it. It
will answer my purpose."

The end of it was that Mr. Cunningham, as
overseer, came down in charge of five or six hundred
well-bred cattle, which were turned out at St. Ruth's
after a reasonable " tailing," and presently were all
over the district. Mr. Cunningham, as I have before
stated, was one of the most energetic men possible,
but he failed to make St. Ruth's a payable specula-
tion. The cattle never fattened ; they became
wild ; they could never be mustered with certainty ;
they furnished none of the pleasing results with
which cattle in a crack district are generally
credited.

Eventually Mr. Goldsmith lost patience, and sold
this valuable property to a former manager of his

K

130 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

own — Mr. Hatsell Garrard. This gentleman had
accompanied Mr. Goldsmith from England, and, it
was said, had chosen for him the celebrated " Corn-
borough," a son of Tramp, a grandson of Whalebone,
and one of the grandest horses that ever looked
through a bridle. A good judge of stock, both
in England and Australia, how Mr. Garrard came
to buy such a place is " one of the mysteries."
The terms were easy, probably, and the price tempt-
ing ; he thought " it couldn't hurt at the price."
The homestead, too (Mr. Cunningham was a great
improver), was now very comfortable. That and
the name together did it.

Mr. Garrard, who was a most genial, jolly, but
withal tolerably shrewd old boy, kept the run for
a year or two, just selling cattle enough to pay his
way, when he dropped on a chance to " unload " and
make a sale to Messrs. Moutray and Peyton.

The former, like the seller, had abounding
experience, had lived on an adjoining run, was
quite capable of managing his own affairs, yet lie
went into it with his eyes open. His only excuse
was, that store cattle were worth £4 and ^5 a head
" after the gold," and he thought he saw his way.
His partner, Mr. Peyton, was a young Englishman
of good family, vigorous and ardent, just the man
to succeed in Australia, one would have thought.
He was told exactly and truly by his friends all the
bad points of the run ; but it was difficult in that
day of high prices to find an investment for two
or three thousand pounds, so he, being anxious to
start, made the plunge. In a couple of years
the partnership was dissolved, Moutray having

xii GRASMERE 131

saved some of his money, and Peyton having lost
every shilling.

They sold to Mr. Doughty, who had formerly
owned a sheep station near Mount Gambier. He
was a married man, and preferred, for some reasons,
the Port Fairy district to live in. He was economi-
cal, active, a famous horseman, and a good manager.
He tried " all he knew," but was beaten in a little
more than a year, and " gave it best." I heard of
other purchasers, but about that time I severed my
connection with the district and followed the fortune
of St. Ruth's no further. Probably, if cleared,
drained, laid down in grasses at the rate of £\o
per acre, fenced and subdivided, it might, under the
weeping western skies, produce good pasture. But
it always was an unlucky spot.

In the strongest contradistinction to St. Ruth's —
a regular man-trap, and as pecuniarily fatal as if
specially created for Murad the Unlucky — was the
station generally known as " Blackfellows' Creek,"
lying east of Eumeralla. By the way, the original
pathfinders of Port Fairy had a pretty fancy in
the naming of their watercourses. There were Snaky
Creek, Breakfast Creek, and, of course, Deep Creek
and Sandy Creek. Now, this Blackfellows' Creek
was as exceptionally good a station as St. Ruth's
was "t'other way on." It was proverbially and
eminently a fattening run ; and on the principle
"who drives fat oxen should himself be fat," its
owner, Mr. William Carmichael, was, and always had
been, far and away the fattest man in the district.

CHAPTER XIII

SUPERIOR FATTENING COUNTRY

BLACKFELLOWS' Creek, or " Harton Hills," as the
proprietor caused it to be designated when it com-
menced to acquire fame and reputation, was a
striking example of the well-known faith held by-
experienced pastoralists, that a good run will
manage itself, and make lots of money for its owner,
whereas no amount of management will cause much
difference in the profits or losses of a bad run.

Blackfellows' Creek was proverbially managed
" anyhow." There was a large herd of cattle upon
it, which certainly enjoyed about the smallest
amount of supervision of any cattle in the world, not
being Red River bisons, Chillingham wild cattle, or
the Bos primigenins. Twice a year they were
mustered to brand ; a little oftcner, perhaps, to get
out the fat cattle. Sometimes there was a stock-
rider, often none at all for months. The owner
enjoyed the inestimable advantage of having been
born north of the Tweed, a fact which indisposed
him to employ more labour than was absolutely
necessary. It also prevented him from wasting his

chap, xni SUPERIOR FATTENING COUNTRY 133

ready money on " improvements." The yards were
generally referred to as a proof of how very little
expenditure was really necessary on a cattle station.
" I wish I'd been a Scotchman, Rolf," said Fred
Burchett to me once, in a contemplative mood. " I
should have had a good run and 20,000 sheep by
this time." " True — most true, friend of my soul ;
the same here — and we should not only have had
them, — the acquisition is not so difficult, — but have
kept them. That's where one division of the empire
differs so much from the other." Now, the owner of
Blackfellows' Creek, partly by reason of his abnormal
girth and a sort of Athelstane-the-Unready kind of
nature, never did anything. Yet he prospered ex-
ceedingly, and waxed more and more wealthy and
rotund. All the stock-riders in the district came
cheerfully to his muster, knowing that they would
be treated with a certain easy-going liberality, and,
moreover, be sure to find quantities of unbranded
calves and strayed stock, all in the best possible
condition, and never driven off the run or impounded
from the richly-abounding and carelessly -ordered
pastures of Blackfellows' Creek. I myself secured
at a muster, and sold there and then, a whole lot
of fat bullocks to Mooney, the cattle-dealer, who
was lifting a draft at the time. They were a
portion of my Devil's River store lot, which had,
with correct taste and calculation, taken up their
abode at Blackfellows' Creek on the first winter of
their arrival. They had not my station brand,
but their own hieroglyph was sufficient to protect
them in those Arcadian times. I received Mr.
Mooney's perfectly negotiable cheque for a round

134 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

sum. They had fattened up wonderfully, — great,
raw-boned, old-fashioned Sydney-siders, — and looked
like elephants. The only remark the owner of the
run made on the transaction was, " As they had
done so well, it was a pity that more of them hadn't
come at the same time."

It was indeed a lovely bit of country, speaking
from a grazing standpoint. There was plenty of
water in the Blackfellows' and other unpretending
channels to provide for the stock in all seasons
without obtrusive parade. The run itself consisted
principally of open well-grassed forest land, with a
large proportion of " stony rises," and several
marshes, very useful in the summer. Not an acre
of waste or indifferent land was there upon it.
Nobody knew where the boundaries were, there
being no natural features of any kind, and the
current belief was that it was much larger than
was generally supposed. It did not seem to have
any of the ordinary drawbacks to which other
squattagcs were exposed. In spite of its ill-omened
name, the blacks had never been " bad " there. If
they had killed a few cattle no one would have
minded, and I have no doubt they would have
discontinued the practice voluntarily.

As a matter of course, the cattle were always
" rolling fat." There was never the least trouble of
selling a draft to be taken from the camp. The
dealers gave the highest price, and bid against one
another. Even the two-year-old steers were often
taken, so " furnished " and " topped up " were they.
How they were bred could never be ascertained, and
was popularly supposed to be wholly unknown to

xni SUPERIOR FATTENING COUNTRY 135

any white man of the period. Bulls were seldom
bought. Not the smallest trouble was taken about
their breeding. No money was spent, except upon
the stud, in which were some noble Clydesdales — on
one of them, by the way, I once saw the proprietor,
and very worthily mounted he was. The animal
in question was a son of old Farmer's Favourite,
a gigantic gray, no doubt having some blood on the
side of the dam, and seventeen hands in height.
He was active and well paced, and carried his
nineteen stone most creditably.

There were sheep on the run as well as cattle.
From the richness of the soil and herbage they
suffered a good deal with foot-rot, which they were
permitted to cure by nature's own healing art. But
they paid pretty well, too, growing a heavy fleece,
and gradually increasing in numbers — shepherds,
ailments, and occasional free selection by dingoes
notwithstanding.

Mr. Carmichael either bought the place very
early or " took it up " — the latter most likely. Such
a property was, presumably, not often in the market ;
but the proprietor told me that he had once placed
it under offer, at what he doubtless considered a
very fancy price, to Mr. Jack Buchanan, a handsome,
spirited young Scot, who bought one of the Messrs.
Boldens' runs — the Lake — in 1844. The extreme
fancy price being £3 per head for the cattle and
1 os. all round for the sheep, the run about a quarter
stocked !

After the gold "broke out," the drafts of fat
cattle from Harton Hills began to tell up in such
figures on the right side of his banking account that

136 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

the owner saw the necessity for acquiring the fee-
simple. This was effected, like everything else
there, without much trouble. A good house was
built, fencing was put up. Thousands of acres
were purchased, and the whole run pretty well
" secured," out of its own profits solely, by the time
the invasion of the free-selecting Goths and Vandals
under Gavan Duffy's Act took place. Mr. Car-
michael ultimately retired, and betook himself to a
town life. But, however his idyll ended, no better
example than Blackfellows' Creek ever demonstrated
the soundness of the old squatting belief before
alluded to, that the run is everything — stock, improve-
ments, management, capital, etc., being all secondary
considerations.

It has been mentioned in the early portions of
these reminiscences that the Mount Rouse station,
originally taken up by Mr. John Cox, had been
resumed by the Government of the day, represented
by His Honour the Superintendent, and devoted to
the use and benefit of the aborigines of the district.
Some compunction seems to have been felt by Mr.
La Trobe, a humane and highly-cultured person,
at the rapid decrease and deterioration of the native
race. Whether he originated the idea of an
aboriginal protectorate, with a staff of officials
known as " Black Protectors," I cannot state with
precision. A certain missionary named Robinson
had the credit of inducing the remnant of the wild
men and women of Tasmania to surrender to the
clemency of the Government. They were then,
with a somewhat doubtful generosity, presented with
an island, and maintained thereon at the charges

xin SUPERIOR FATTENING COUNTRY 137

of the State. It does not appear that they
lacked henceforth any material comfort. But the
fierce savages who had long harassed the outlying
settlers, and who possessed considerably more " bull-
dog " in the way of courage than their continental
congeners, refused to thrive or multiply when
" cabined, cribbed, confined," even though they had
alternation of landscape in their island home, and
but the restless sea for their encircling boundary.
They pined away slowly ; but a few years since the
last female of the race died. The monotonous
comfort told on health and spirits. It was wholly
alien to the constitution of the wild hunters and
warriors who had been wont to traverse pathless
woods, to fish in the depths of forest streams, to
chase the game of their native land through the
lone untrampled mead, or the hoar primeval forests
which lay around the snow-crested mountain range.

The missionary diplomatist displayed an amount
of nerve and astuteness which would have led to
promotion in other departments. He crossed the
straits to Victoria, and, if I mistake not, held
council with Mr. La Trobe. Whether propter hoc or
only post hoc, an aboriginal protectorate was estab-
lished, and Mr. Cox had the honour of giving up a
property worth now say about ;£ 100,000 for the
presumed advantage of the black brother.

It was no trifling loss. Even in those days the
" Mount Rouse Stones " was an expression which
made the mouth of a cattleman to water. It was
the richest run in a rich fattening district. The
conical hill, so named, was an extinct volcano, which
towered over a wide extent of lava country and

138 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

open lightly-timbered forest. The lava lands alter-
nated with great marshes. Strayed and other cattle
found there, when recovered, were always spoken of
by the stock-riders as being "mud-fat." When
once cattle were turned out there they never seemed
to have any inclination to roam, being instinctively
aware, doubtless, that they could never hope to find
such shelter, such pasture, such luxurious lodging
anywhere else.

I remember Charles Burchett remarking one day
that it would be a fairly promising speculation to
bring up a thousand head of store cattle and lose
them at the foot of Mount Rouse ; after a short,
unsuccessful search, to depart, and return in the
autumn, when they would be sure to be found all
fat, and within a dozen miles of the hill. He
reflected for a moment, and then added thoughtfully,
" I think a popular man might do it."

However, there was no fighting with the powers
that be in those days. There was no Parliament —
no press of any great weight — no fierce democracy
— no redress nearer than Sydney. It was " a far
cry to Lochow." So Mr. Cox shifted his stock and
servants out, and Dr. Watton moved in, took pos-
session as Protector of Aborigines, and gathered to
him the remnant of the former lords of the soil, with
their wives and their little ones. The intention was
humane ; the act was one of mercy and justice
towards the fast-fading children of the waste ; but
it never could be demonstrated to be more successful
In results than the Tasmanian experiment.

There were several protectorate stations estab-
lished about the same time, one notably near Ballarat,

xin SUPERIOR FATTENING COUNTRY 139

one, I think, on the Wimmera, and one on the Murray.
Long after a Moravian Mission was organised for
their behoof at Lake Boga, near Swan Hill. All
came to naught. The blacks visited them from time
to time, when the season was unpropitious, or for
other reasons. They were fed and clothed. The
younger ones were taught to read and write, and
received religious instruction. But the whole thing
doubtless appeared to them unendurably dull and
slow, and like all savages, and a largish proportion
of whites, being passionately averse to monotony,
they deserted by degrees, and pursued a more
congenial career as wanderers through wood and
wold, or as servants and labourers at the neigh-
bouring stations. There they could earn money,
and, I fear me, proceeded to " knock down " the
same by means of periodic alcoholic indulgence, " as
nat'ral as a white man."

Meanwhile good old Dr. Watton, a genial, cultured
English gentleman, lived a peaceful patriarchal life
at Mount Rouse — not, I should imagine, vexing
his soul unduly at the instability of the heathen.
They were welcomed and kindly treated when they
came, not particularly regretted when they chose
to depart. All attempt at coercion would have
been, of course, inexpedient and ludicrously ineffec-
tive. So matters at the " Reservation " wore on.
The doctor's small herd of cattle, the descendants of
a few milch cows needed for the family, were won-
derful to behold by reason of their obesity, as they
lay and lounged about the spring which trickled
down a plough-furrow in front of the cottage.

The pastoralists never approved of the protectorate

140 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

system. They accused certain of the protectors —
not the gentlemen to whom I refer — of instructing
the blacks that if whites shot them it would be con-
sidered murder, and the offenders hanged, but that if
they speared the cattle or the stockmen occasionally,
it was only, let us say, an error of judgment, for
which they would not suffer death. This probably
was an exaggeration, and some allowance must be
made for the habitual antagonism of pioneers to
" Injuns" of any sort or kind.

If these establishments did no particular good,
they did no harm. They afforded shelter to the
aged and infirm of both sexes, and they attempted,
in all good faith, to teach the young the great
truths of the Christian's hope in life and death.
Still, I know but of one instance where any per-
manent educational good resulted to the pure race.
Yet I took much interest in the question, and
remember watching closely the career of a highly
intelligent half-caste, who had been brought up by
Mr. Donald M'Leod at Moruya. He was a tall,
well-made man, intelligent, " reliable," and shrewd.
He married a respectable emigrant girl. They had
two children, and a situation under Cobb and Co.
At this stage of ethnological interest a snake bit
him. The poor fellow died, and 1 lost the oppor-
tunity of watching the development of the mixed
blood.

After the Mount Rouse aboriginal station had
been devoted to this philanthropical purpose for a
certain number of years, it became gradually apparent
to the official mind, from the well-nigh complete dis-
appearance of aboriginals, that its utility had ceased.

xin SUPERIOR FATTENING COUNTRY 141

It was accordingly disestablished. One would have
thought that the obviously fair thing would have
been to have handed back the right of run to the
former owner. This was before any gospel of free
selection had been preached, and while the " poor
man " was still a harmless, contented unit of the body
politic, ignorant of his wrongs, and unacquainted with
the fatal flavour of vote by ballot. The license could
have been granted afresh to Mr. Cox or his executors,
and no one would have thought of protesting. But
no ! With a certain cheese-paring economy, of which
Governments are often justly accused, it was decided
to let the right of run by tender. Though assess-
ments were high enough, no one in those days
dreamed of offering more than ^200 or £300
annually for the mere grass right of any run. Mount
Rouse was hardly improved in any way. Every one
was considerably astonished when it was proclaimed
that the tender of the Messrs. Twomey had been
accepted for £900 per annum ! This was a rental
for the waste lands of the Crown with a vengeance !
It was thought that it never would pay the daring
speculators. However, the event showed that the
Messrs. Twomey had gauged the capabilities of the
run accurately enough. They had a small station
close by, and had made their calculations justly.
They put sheep on, fenced, and presumably made
money thereby, as they eventually purchased the
greater portion of the freehold.

CHAPTER XIV

BURCHETT OF " THE GUMS "

This was the well-known name of an exceedingly
choice run close to Nareeb Nareeb, on Muston's
Creek, and at an early period in the occupation of
the Messrs. Charles, Henry, and Fred Burchett. The
name was allotted by Charles, who said that as
the old country places were christened " The Oaks,"
" The Ashes," " The Beeches," and so on, he thought
it befitting that an Australian homestead should
be known as " The Gums." So mote it be ; and I
fancy Mr. Ross, the present owner, has by no means
changed the name.

Charles Burchett was a humourist of the first
water, and as such delighted in by his numerous
friends. The district was hardly ever without the
excitement of " Burchett's last." He had a serious,
tentative, doubtful way of bringing out his good
things, which heightened the effect.

" The Gums," like Dunmore, boasted a better
library than ordinary, and there was set on foot the
Mount Rouse Book Club, which, founded on a
moderate subscription, and compelling members to

chap, xiv BURCHETT OF " THE GUMS" 143

send round the books at monthly intervals, pro-
vided mental food for a goodly number of friends
and neighbours.

Charles Burchett and his brother Fred were both
somewhat deaf. Whether or not the slight infirmity
concentrated the reflective powers, certain it is that
they resembled each other closely in being excep-
tionally original and amusing in conversation.

Occasionally Mr. Charles Burchett's difficulty in
hearing led to diverting cross purposes, as in the case
of his celebrated interview with the bushrangers.
He and a friend, it is related, some time in the early
days, met with two men, one of whom carried a gun.
They addressed themselves to his companion, who
appeared to be, from the expression of his counte-
nance, much interested in their remarks.

Mr. Burchett looked at them with an inquiring
air. " What do they want, Scott ? " he said, in his
resonant, high-pitched voice, accentuating always
the last word of the sentence. " Do they want
work ? "

None of them could help laughing, it is said ; but
the man with the gun, observing the gentleman place
his hand to his ear, raised the gun sharply to a level
with his breast, by way of explaining matters.

Again Mr. Burchett looked up with a grave and
meditative expression. Then he addressed the
spoiler — " I say, take away that gun, it might go off."
Even the hardened old hand was not proof against
this characteristic jest ; he put down his gun in order
to laugh in comfort. However, it was explained
that business was business. So having relieved Mr.
Burchett and his friend of their horses and loose

144 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

cash, the robbers departed. But they behaved with
civility, and a ten-mile walk was the worst of the
affair. The horses were afterwards found at no great
distance from the spot, and returned to their owners.
Unfortunately, as it happened, the fraternal trium-
virate at "The Gums" held diverse opinions as to
the stock upon which to stake the fortunes of the
firm. Henry Burchett was gifted with a strongly
arithmetical turn, in consequence of which he was
generally alluded to by Charles as " my brother
Cocker." A calculation of the average value of the
wool -clip led him doubtless to decide — with con-
siderable accuracy, as events proved — in favour of
sheep. Charles and Fred preferred cattle. In the
end Charles sold his share of run and stock, and
commenced a business in Melbourne. Having made
a pilgrimage to Riverina, riding one wiry hackney
the whole way there and back, without apparent
distress to man or beast, Henry posed as the apostle
of a new faith on his return, after beholding, near
Deniliquin, what he then decided to be the true
home of the merino sheep, and purchasing for a small
price a certain run on the Billabong, since tolerably
well known to wool-buyers as " Coree." He bought
sheep with which to stock it, and removed those
still at " The Gums." He it was who first placed
a dam across the uncertain watercourse of the
Billabong, and thus aided the inception of the great
system of water-storage now so universal. It was
a primitive time enough on the Billabong, one may
be sure. The late Mr. Sylvanus Daniel was a man
in authority at Deniliquin, then known as one of
" The Royal Bank " stations. Some of his good

xiv BURCHETT OF "THE GUMS" 145

stones the wayfarer from Port Fairy brought back
with him, so that the fame of that gentleman's
hospitality and genial temperament reached the
colony of Victoria years before he migrated to the
north-western district of New South Wales.

Henry Burchett retained his share in "The Gums"
after his purchase of Coree, but, wishing to concen-
trate his investments, he — unfortunately for his partner
and himself — decided to realise on the Port Fairy
property. The sale of "The Gums" accordingly took
place. It was, of course, before the gold — only one
year I think. The price of a first-class, well-improved,
fattening run, with a good herd of 1 500 cattle thereon,
was — what does any one think ? — £2 per head !
Yes, at this melancholy price did " The Gums " pass
into the hands of Mr. Henry Gottreaux, a gentleman
lately arrived in the colony, formerly in the Austrian
service. He was a brother of William Gottreaux, of
Lilaree ; he had, therefore, the advantage of the
advice of an experienced colonist.

Mr. Gottreaux did not look, to our eyes, the " man
for Galway " ; or likely to make much out of a
cattle run in those hard -riding, hard -living days.
Tall and soldierly -looking, with a big moustache,
he had a bluff, German-baron sort of air. He was
portly withal, and, though a cavalry man, not up
to much in the " cutting-out " or cattle-muster line.
The first thing to which he devoted his energies
was the building of a spacious, wide-verandahed brick
cottage, dooming the snug old slab homestead, where
we had all spent so many pleasant hours, to do duty
as barracks and out-offices. After this he inquired of
one of the visitors, who, after our custom, had come

L

146 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

to help at the muster, whether it would not be easy
to transmit his share of the profits to a friend in
England, who had an interest — as a sleeping partner
— in the station.

The man whom he addressed smiled inwardly,
and sardonically replied, " Very easy." We thought
this a good joke when it was handed over to us a
week after. But Mr. Gottreaux was right, and we
were all wrong, proving how difficult it was to decide
in such matters unless all the factors of the sum
are in view. In the first place, the new proprietor
was a man of brains and method, culture and
knowledge of the world. He did not scurry about
in the camp on the stock-horse of the period — it
was not his mttier ; but he paid and controlled a
good stock-rider who did. He lived comfortably,
preferring, reasonably, to dine at ease after the
business of the day was concluded. But he kept
his accounts correctly, and provided that the balance
should be on the right side. The seasons were
favourable ; they are rarely otherwise in the pleasant
west country, to the green pastures of which fate had
guided the " bold Uhlan." And then — trump card
of all — the Gold Magician played shortly afterwards,
lie threw down an ace — waved his wand. The cattle
which our friend purchased at £ 2, with right of run
added, became worth £10 per head. So he had
profits to remit to his partner after all, by no means
of small annual amount either.

Terenallum was in early days the property of
Messrs. Lang and Elms, who considered it a fairly
paying sheep run, though bare of timber and rather
desolate of aspect. Disadvantageously for the firm,

xiv BURCHETT OF "THE GUMS" 147

as it turned out, Mr. Elms, the resident partner, was
tempted by what was then thought to be a high price
— 12s. per head or so, with about one-third of the
stock it afterwards carried — to sell to Mr. Russell
of The Leigh. He invested in a presumably richer
country between The Grange and the Eumeralla,
and, I should think, never ceased to regret the
exchange. The new runs were chiefly cattle country,
being well-grassed forest, not over dry in winter, and
therefore in those days looked upon as liable to
foot-rot. The eastern subdivision, called " Lyne,"
was at no great distance from Mr. Cox's Werrongourt
station. This transaction illustrates the errors of
judgment so often made by pioneer squatters, men
of exceeding shrewdness and energy notwithstanding.
So George Wyndham Elms sold Terenallum, now
proverbially one of the most valuable sheep properties
west of the Barwon, and purchased a run which
must have paid indifferent interest on capital for
long afterwards. Yet the seller was sufficiently ex-
perienced, could work with both hands and head,
had confronted all the regulation pioneer troubles —
bad shepherds, blacks, low wool, everything — had
shepherded on a pinch, and slept in a watch-box.
Then, when all was well and a fortune coming to
meet him, he was fated to ruin everything for the
sake of change. Mais, telle est la vie.

Lyne and the other station were good enough,
fairly watered, splendidly grassed, and so on ; but the
cautious critics said they would never make up for
Terenallum. And they didn't.

The original cattle had been neglected, it would
appear. Among them was a large proportion of

148 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

bullocks which declined with fiendish obstinacy to
fatten. They would do anything but go off to the
butcher. They oppressed the rest of the herd,
showed a bad example, and paid nothing. They
were what are known by the stock-riders as " ragers "
or " pig-meaters." Fierce of aspect, and active as
buffaloes, they appear with regularity at each muster,
but are never permitted the chance of road-adventure
with any buyer of fat cattle. The price offered for
them is generally so small that in many instances
the owner ceases to form plans for their conversion
into cash, and, if easy-going, permits them to eat
grass and demoralise the herd indefinitely. The
run was now worked with fair results for a year
or two, but it soon became apparent that it was
not likely to return the same sort of dividends
which were so satisfactory each year at Terenallum.
This probably tended towards discussion between
the partners. However that might have been, a
division of the runs took place. Mr. Lang retained
Lyne, with the herd of cattle depastured thereon,
while Mr. Elms removed to that portion of the area
which lay nearer to the town of Hamilton. Upon
this he built a new homestead, and proceeded to
convert it into a sheep station.

Mr. Lang had visited England more than once
during the partnership, and so loosened his hold
upon matters colonial. It has generally happened,
within my experience at least, that a squatter who
permitted himself to behold " the kingdoms of the
earth, and the glory of them," rarely settled down
into a contented colonist upon returning to Australia.
So Mr. Lang put Lyne into the market. It was

xiv BURCHETT OF « THE GUMS" 149

sold to Captain Stanley Carr, a retired military
officer, who had passed years at a German court,
and held property in Silesia. There, it seems, he
had acquired a taste for high-class merinoes. He
had been tempted to visit Australia, probably as
a larger field for investment, bringing with him
some good sheep of the type then prevailing, and
fashionable in the country of his adoption. These
were sent to Lyne, where they were only moderately
praised by the sheepholders of the district, being
acknowledged to be fine as to quality of fleece,
but considered small and delicate of frame.

Captain Stanley Carr, by birth Scoto-Irish, was
a genial and polished personage, not altogether
averse to the privilege accorded to travellers, but
most amusing and agreeable. He bought, as did
Mr. Gottreaux, " before the gold." The price he paid
was therefore moderate, leaving a large margin for
profit in the rising markets which were imminent,
and of which he shortly experienced the advantage.
Residing for a few months at Lyne, he made himself
popular with his neighbours, who were nothing loath
to visit and entertain a courtier, a man of the world,
and a raconteur at once so experienced and original.
He justified the shrewd outlook upon events which
had caused him to become an investor in the first
instance, by prophesying an extraordinary develop-
ment of Australian prosperity which was to be
rapid and astonishing. The soil, the climate, the
extent of the waste lands of the Crown, all excited
his admiration. The captain's pre-auriferous predic-
tions have since received curiously close fulfilment.

Our gallant pastoral comrade had some knowledge

150 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap, xiv

of sheep-farming. For the management of a mixed
herd of cattle, after the Australian fashion, he was as
unfitted as the confidential German shepherd of his
priceless Silesian ewes to " run " a South American
saladero. Wisely, therefore, he took the neighbours
into his confidence, requesting the advice which
was cheerfully given. He was, in the first instance,
by them adjured to cull the herd severely — to that
end to eliminate without delay all the bovine
" larrikins " (the word had not then been coined,
but an analogous social remedy may yet in future
ages be legally applicable) by boiling them down.
There happened to be at Port Fairy in that
brooding year just before the gold — and what
embryo events were not then ripening in the
womb of fate! — a regularly -appointed saladero.
How much more concise is the expression than " a
boiling-down establishment where salting beef for
exportation is also carried on," and yet foolish
utilitarians see no advantage in schoolboys learning
Greek and Latin. But this savours of digression.
Such an institution was then in full working
order, organised for the reduction of the " dangerous
classes " of the bovine neighbourhood into tallow
and corned beef. It was managed by Mr. M'Cracken,
and (of course) subsidised by Mr. William Rutledge.
" Unto this last " the Lyne larrikins were by a
consensus of notables forthwith relegated.

CHAPTER XV

WORK AND PLAY

The captain's first cattle -muster was fixed for a
certain day. I had the honour of being invited
specially to superintend the classing and drafting of
the bullocks, retaining the presumably marketable,
and condemning the irreconcilables. I was happy
to accede, but a slight difficulty stood in the way.
The night preceding the muster had been devoted
to the coming ball at Dunmore, an anxiously-
anticipated festivity, to which all Port Fairy was
bidden, and from which no loyal Western man
could be absent if alive. Certainly not the writer,
Terpsichore's not least ardent votary. The difficulty
was to combine drafting and dancing with a con-
scientious attention to both. " Minorca lies in the
middle sea." Lyne is half-way between Dunmore
and Hamilton — over twenty miles anyhow. The
drafting would commence at sunrise — the dancing
would continue till daylight. Such trivial discrep-
ancies were negotiable, however,

Ere nerve and sinew began to fail
In the consulship of Plancus.

152 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

The ball was in its way perfect, " with music,
moonlight, love, and flowers," probably in the usual
proportions. Daylight found the revellers still
unsated ; but an hour before the first tremulous
dawn wavelet rippled over the pale sky-line I had
doffed the canonicals, slipped on boots and breeches,
mounted my favourite hackney — "The Gaucha"to
wit — and was stretching out along the track to
Eumeralla at the rate of twelve miles an hour.

The summer morn was refreshingly cool, the first
hour's ride delicious ; then an increasing drowsiness
made itself felt, and ere long I would have given all
the world to lie down under a tree and sleep till
noon. But the inclination was sternly repressed, and
less than another hour's ride brought the creek in
view, below the blackwood-crowned slopes of Lyne,
one of the loveliest spots in all the West. The
position of the stock-yard was denoted from afar by
the great cloud of dust which rose pillar-like to the
clear sky, while the " roaring " of the restless, excited
cattle had been audible long before the dust-cloud
was visible.

It was a lovely, clear, summer morning ; yet,
as I rode onward, the sentence of Holy Writ kept
ceaseless iteration through my brain as curiously
apposite, while ever and anon through the green
forest echoed the deep-resounding lowing of the im-
prisoned herd — " And the smoke of their torment
ascendeth for ever." As I rode up to the yard a
score of stock-horses stood under the trees. The
ocean of unbroken greenery that lay to the eastward
was flame-tinted by the rising sun, but, early as was
the hour, work had begun. Joe Twist of Werron-

xv WORK AND PLAY 153

gourt, and Mackay of Eumeralla, were at the
drafting gates ; the cattle were running through. I
was just in time to enter upon my duty as classifier,
at which arduous and delicate task I continued
till noon. A half-hour for the mid-day meal, a
few minutes' grace while pipes are lighted, then
through the long, dusty hours of the hot after-
noon the laborious, exciting work is ceaselessly
carried on. Strangers and pilgrims, calves and
clear-skins, are separated at the same time. The
sun declines, dips lower still, and lower. The day is
done, and a highly respectable amount of necessary
work has been performed. The liberated herd
streams back in a score of droves to familiar
pastures. Two hundred and twenty " boilers " are
safe in the small yard, the which will be started
for their last drive on the following morning. The
stock -riders are accommodated on the station.
Some ride home — those who had no calves or stray
cattle on their minds ; the rest remain, ready to
give a hand with the boiling -down draft next
day. I partake of Captain Carr's hospitality,
warmly thanked for my exertions. Do I not doze
off almost before the evening's meal is concluded ?
I beg to be excused on the ground of fatigue, and
depart incontinently for bed thereafter. Do I
turn round until sunrise next morning? I trow
not.

But I was soon in the saddle then, and away
with the drove referred to. What a rush they made
when the gate was opened ! — what a pace they went
for the first mile or two ! I can see Joe Twist now
on his favourite stock-horse — a steed that even his

154 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

master cared not to ride without his permission — going
like a Comanchee Indian, the merest trifle less than
racing speed, parallel with a tossing forest of horns,
his bridle-hand low, his stock-whip raised threaten-
ingly, the eager horse's head now on the ground,
now raised higher than a nervous rider would choose.
Was there another man " steadying the lead " on the
opposite side, right well mounted also, gallant in the
pride of youthful horsemanship and the full inspira-
tion of " God's glorious oxygen " ? It may have
been so. Ah me ! those were pleasant days.
Would they might return ! Even as I write,

Still comes the memory sweet

Of bygone hours, long-gathered flowers
Pressed by our youth's gay feet.

It may not have been wholly in the interests of
an Australian merino principality that our shores
were honoured by the captain's company and capital.
With him — and to a certain extent, it was under-
stood, indebted to his guardianship — came a Prince
of Augustenburg, who had not then succeeded to his
present exalted position. This royal personage was
apparently not deeply interested in the pastoral life
of Australia, and remained to the last unconcerned
about the weights and fineness of fleece of merino
sheep. Providence had arranged his destiny so as
to be unaffected by the wool market, or even by
the prevalence of dry seasons. He also spoke
English indifferently, and, thus handicapped, pre-
ferred the sylvan shades of Toorak and the
tempered solitude of a club smoking-room to the
primeval waste. His more mercurial senior mean

xv WORK AND PLAY 155

while utilised his colonial experience to some
purpose, as the sequel will show.

Possibly a strict provincial life at Lyne became
monotonous after the " boilers " had realised some
30s. per head. The Ballarat diggers would have
eaten them gaily at £7 or £& each a year or two
after, but we did not forecast that and a few other
unimportant changes. After the calves were branded,
after the German shepherd had with paternal care
cured the Silesians of foot-rot — (how different from
the demeanour of Australian Corydon purring at his
foul pipe, and double-blanking the sheep, with every-
body connected with the place, from the ration-
carrier upwards, as he pares the offending hoof) —
after these, and divers other engrossing duties, had
helped to hurry along the stream of Time, the captain
delegated such and the like, permanently, to Mr.
J. R. Nowlan, a gentleman who dwelt hard by, con-
stituting him his managing partner. He then betook
himself with his Prince back to Europe, via Panama,
a route then coming into fashion with Australian
home-returning voyagers. The travellers — including,
I think, Messrs. Lang and Winter — had nearly com-
pleted their foreign tour in an abrupt and melancholy
fashion. While crossing the Chagres river (I will
not certify as to the name, but, if doubtful on the
point, communicate with Baron Lesseps, Captain
Mayne Reid, and Mr. Frederick Boyle) their light
bark sprang a leak. They were partly canoe-wrecked,
and left by their boatman upon a sandbank in the
mid -stream of a big, rapid river, swarming with
alligators. The river was rising, which tended to
limit their period of security. In this strait, a small

156 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

dug-out was seen approaching from the farther
bank. The Indian paddler explained by pantomime
that he could take but two. That was self-evident.
One passenger even suggested risk. Then arose a
generous contention. To the Prince was unani-
mously yielded the pas. The second place the
captain was prayed to take. " No," said the gallant
veteran ; " you fellows have all the world before you.
I have had my innings, and a deuced good one
too. Mot qui parle ! Get in, either of you ; I'm
dashed if I do." The time was rapidly growing
shorter ; the sandbank contracting its area. The
boatman gesticulated. The alligators, presumably,
were expectant. It was no time for overstrained
ceremony. One of the squatters stepped in, and
the frail craft swirled into the eddying current. It
returned in time, and the Greytown Herald missed
a sensational paragraph.

That was in other respects an exciting trip.
Mr. Lang found himself, when at Panama, relegated
to a huge dormitory, crowded like a sixpenny
boarding-house. Comforting himself with the re-
flection that it was but for a night, he invoked
Somnus, all vainly. The groans of a sick man
on the next couch forbade repose. " What's the
matter with him ? " he inquired at length of his
nearest " strange bedfellow." " Only Isthmus fever,"
was the answer. My friend shuddered, knowing how
the railway labourers were even then being decimated.

" And why is the bed between you and me
vacant ? " he went on to inquire. " They buried a
cholera patient out of it this morning. You don't
happen to have a cigar, do you ? "

xv WORK AND PLAY 157

It was too late to retreat. The streets were
none too safe. But it may well be believed that
the ex-owner of Lyne wished himself back among
the blackwood trees, or even in the stock -yard,
were the day ever so dusty, and what delicately
constituted persons term oppressive. And when the
red sun aroused him from the troubled slumber
which ended the night's unrest, he naturally doubted
whether cholera or " the fever " would first lay upon
him a fatal grasp.

Mr. Nowlan, an experienced manager, after
Captain Carr's departure " worked " Lyne pretty
vigorously, selling the original herd as they became
fit for market, and putting on store cattle to the full
carrying capacity of the run. The gold discovery of
course transmuted profits magically. At the first
onset of the revolution, cattle stations reaped most
of the benefit, so much less labour being required
than on sheep stations. Within a few years not
only had large profits been realised for the partner-
ship, but the value of the property had quintupled.
An estate of freehold land had been purchased
at Melton, near Melbourne, from the profits of fat
stock. A thousand head of cattle more than the
station had been purchased with were now depas-
tured. At the post-auriferous prices then obtaining,
Lyne, with 3000 head of cattle, was a very
different property from that which Captain Carr
had originally purchased.

At this stage a plenipotentiary from Captain
Carr arrived in the person of Baron von Loesecke, a
jolly, blue-eyed, fair-bearded Teuton, who had mar-
ried his only daughter and heiress. He prudently

158 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

concluded to sell. Lyne and the Melton property
were accordingly, " on a future day, of which,"
etc., put up to auction by, I think, Messrs. Kaye
and Butchart.

The Baron used to remind us at the Melbourne
Club a good deal of Monsieur le Comte de Florae,
in the character of his sentiments and the quality of
his English. He was good-natured, effusive, polite,
though ready to resent any criticism which he did
not interpret as friendly. " Do you think he in-
tended himself to be satirical for me?" he once
inquired, with earnestness ; " if I thought so, I would
challenge him on the instant." The challenge did
not come off, and it need hardly be said that no
offence was intended to a guest and a foreigner.
The day of sale came off, and as we walked up
from the Club the Baron requested a friend to
bid for him the amount of the reserve price, which
had been fixed, I think, at £6 or £$ : 15s. per
head. The run was, if anything, overstocked.
As a number of stores had been recently put on, it
was thought a fair price. Whatever it was, owing
to a misconception, he went £500 higher than he
had been instructed to do. The bidding was not
very brisk towards the end, the sale trembled on the
balance for a minute or two, then the purchaser
came forward and made a further advance. The
station was knocked down to him. The Baron
rushed up to his friend and shook his hand enthusi-
astically ; "You have made for me ^500," he said,
"but I did hold my breath till the next offaire
arrive." Mr. Nowlan, as well as the captain, his heirs
and assigns, must have realised handsomely from the

xv WORK AND PLA Y 159

proceeds of Lyne. Purchased for less than £4000,
it fetched nearly £20,000, not reckoning intervening
profits and the Melton freehold. It afforded one
more illustration of the strangely-assorted luck which
apparently besets colonial investments, the occasional
success of outsiders, not less than the hard measure
too often dealt out to pioneers.

I am not aware whether the last purchaser of
Lyne found the scale of profits perennial. I doubt
it, inasmuch as Duffy's Act followed, bringing darker
days for the squatter. Fortune did not favour the
original owners either. Cheery and full of pluck to
the last, George Elms sailed for Fiji, as after an
interval did his old comrade Lang — pleasant, ever-
courteous " Allan-a-Dale." It was the fashionable
" rush " for a while. They lie at rest under the
whispering palm. Perhaps, ere the last slumber, the
murmur of the surges had lulled to sleep all bitter
memories of the wild southland in which their early
manhood was passed.

CHAPTER XVI

THE ROMANCE OF A FREEHOLD

In a recent advertisement in the Australasian I
observed public notice to be given that " the rich
agricultural lands of the Kangatong estate, near
Port Fairy, would be subdivided at an early date, and
sold in farms to suit purchasers." What changes
time doth bring ! When I first saw the ground
referred to, then known as " Cox's Heifer Station,"
how could one divine the transformation it was
fated to undergo ? As little in 1 844 was pre-
vision possible of the separate sale notices in
which it would figure as the years rolled on. It
epitomises the history of the district, perhaps of the
colony.

First of all, " that well-known fattening station
known as Kangatong, with choice herd of cattle,
stock -horses given in," etc. Then, "that fully
improved, fenced, and subdivided sheep property,
of which the wool is so favourably known to Mel-
bourne buyers." Again, " that valuable pastoral
estate of Kangatong, comprising 35,000 (let us
say) acres of freehold " ; and now, lastly, " those

chap, xvi THE ROMANCE OF A FREEHOLD 161

rich agricultural lands, divided into farms to suit
purchasers."

All these progressive wonders were to be evolved
from the lone primeval waste upon which a solitary-
horseman then gazed in the autumn of i 844. And
the wand of the squatter-sorcerer was to do it all.
I might then have seen lakelets glittering in the sun,
orchards and cornfields, barns and stables, mansion and
offices, a village in itself, the spacious wool-shed and
the scientific wash-pen, had 1 possessed the prophetic
eye. But Fate held her secrets closely then as now.
Only the vast eucalyptus forest, stretching unbroken
to the horizon, waved its sombre banners before me.
Only the scarce-trodden meadows of the waste lay
unfed, untouched around me. I beheld a pastoral
paradise without so much as a first inhabitant, and
at which the very beasts of the field had hardly
arrived. It was a spectacle sufficiently solemn to
have awed a democrat, to have imbued even the

Arch-Anti , well, Anti- Capitalist, with some

respectful consideration for pioneers, whether in toil
or triumph. How I appeared on the scene at
this particular juncture came about in this
wise.

When I first arrived in Port Fairy, the " Heifer
Station " was what would be called in mining parlance
" an abandoned claim," and possibly " jumpable," to
use another effective expression with which the
gold-fields have enriched the Australian vernacular.
Mr. John Cox of Werrongourt had reconsidered his
first intention of segregating the immature females
of his herd — probably as too expensive — had with-
drawn them and their herdsmen, leaving hut and

M

1 62 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

yards untenanted, the run unoccupied. This last was
now for sale with " improvements." I really can't
recall the date of that comprehensive euphemism,
which included everything, from a watch-box to a
wool-shed, from a brush-yard to a family mansion.
Perhaps about the time when the children of married
servants advertised for were feelingly referred to as
" encumbrances."

However, improvements and encumbrances not-
withstanding, we must get on with our " Heifer
Station " history. Here it was for sale, with one hut,
one log-yard, and the right to 40,000 acres, more
or less, of first-class pasture — for how much ?
Would I could get the offer again ! Thirty pounds !
This was the price — everybody knew it. Mr. Cox
wanted to sell — had plenty of country at Werron-
gourt — couldn't be bothered with it. The best
thing I could do was to go and see it, or close for
it at once. Mr. Cox was in Tasmania just at
present, but had, of course, left instructions. Thus
far the friendly public. I thought I would go and
see. So I mounted Clifton, the grandson of Skeleton,
and turned my face to the setting sun. Making my
way to Tarrone, where at that time Mr. Chamberlain
lived, I explained to him the object of my tourist
wandering. I was most hospitably received. It
turned out afterwards that he had had a hint that I
wanted to " sit down " somewhere in his neighbour-
hood. The runs at that time were, as may be
imagined, very sparsely stocked. If the Com-
missioner of Crown Lands was in a bad temper, he
had the power to " give away " to the interloper a
seriously appreciable portion of any pastoral area,

xvi THE ROMANCE OF A FREEHOLD 163

however long established and secure the occupant
might fancy himself to be.

So, as he afterwards told one of the neighbours, he
determined to show me every courtesy ; after which,
appealing to all chivalrous feelings in my nature,
he felt that I could not, in common decency, annex
any portion of his (Mr. Chamberlain's) run. This was
a shade of diplomacy sometimes roughly described
as characteristic of " the old soldier." If so, my
host's military experiences, as on another historical
occasion, served him well. When I left Tarrone that
morning, with a guide, towards the Heifer Station, I
would have driven on to Western Australia — a pastoral
Vanderdecken — rather than infringe on the tolerably
liberal boundaries which he claimed for Tarrone.

I rode along and passed the great Tarrone Marsh,
with its well-defined wooded banks and its miles
upon miles of mournful reeds, wild-duck and bittern
haunted. My guide pointed out to me a place
where, riding one day a mare that he described as
" touchy," by the edge of the marsh, suddenly a
blackfellow jumped out from behind a tree — " a sal-
vage man accoutred proper." The touchy mare
gave so sudden a prop, accompanied by a desperate
plunge, that he was thrown almost at the feet of the
" Injun." Others appeared — like Roderick Dhu's
clansmen — from every bush and " stony rise," which
had till this moment sheltered them. He raised
himself doubtfully, much expectant of evil ; relations
had certainly been strained of late between the races.
However, they did not (apparently) kill him, he being
there to relate the story. I forget what trifle pre-
vented them.

1 64 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

Then he proceeded to sketch the " lay of the
country." Told me (of course) that " I couldn't miss
the place if I followed the swamp round for two or
three miles, then made for the east a bit, till I came
to some thickish country, then to look out for a ti-
tree crick as would lead down to the main crick.
I'd cut the tracks where they had been tailing the
heifers. Then I'd see the hut and yard." He then
went on his way, having " to run in a beast to kill,"
and I saw him no more. No track, no road, no
bridle-path was there, no known thoroughfare ; while,
after you left the great Tarrone Marsh, there was not
a landmark to speak of within twenty miles, not a
bit of open country the size of a corn-patch. A long,
solitary, unsatisfactory day lay before me. Some-
times I was pretty sure I was on the " run " ; at other
times I was confident that I was off it. I found
the creek a minute but permanent-looking rivulet,
with occasional water-holes. The hut and yards were
on this watercourse ; both inexpensive structures.
I saw, however, that the whole country-side was
covered with a sward of kangaroo grass two or
three feet high, and as thick as a field of barley. No
doubt it was good fattening country, but I did not
take to it somehow. It was a " blind " place, in
stock-riders' phrase — no open country, no contrasts,
no romance about it in fact. " Toujours gum-
tree," as Sir Edward Deas Thomson said when he
drove Sir Charles Fitzroy and Colonel Mundy —
somewhere about that time — with a four-in-hand
drag to Coombing, near Carcoar. I didn't fancy it
altogether, good though the grass undoubtedly was.
I managed to make my way back to Tarrone that

xvi THE ROMANCE OF A FREEHOLD 165

night, where I recruited after the toils of the day.
I informed my gallant and politic host that I
thought I should go farther west. We parted on
the morrow — to his relief, doubtless — with feelings
of high mutual consideration.

Years afterwards we had many a laugh about the
fright I gave him ; and when I was safely settled at
Squattlesea Mere, less than twenty miles to the west-
ward, I nearly concluded an agreement with him to
rent Tarrone for five years, with the option of
purchase, while he went to England. This was a
year or two before the gold. The rental asked for
run, herd (the same numbers, ages, and sexes to be
returned), and homestead was calculated upon the
fat cattle prices of the period — £2 : 10s. for cows,
£3 for fat bullocks ; so was the purchase money. I
often thought how awfully sold my friend and neigh-
bour would have been, as a shrewd man of business,
not wholly unmindful of the main chance, had I
closed with his offer. I finally declined it on the
ground of the run being fully stocked up — our bete
noir in those deliciously simple days, when we
thought it took ten acres, more or less, to fatten a
bullock.

But though it was not considered good form to
settle down too close to a man's horse paddock, it
would never have done to have taken the first occu-
pier's word for what was his lawful right of run. By
his own account there was never any permanent water
" out back." All the decent land within twenty miles
was his ; the best thing the intending pastoralist
could do was to go clean out of the district. Had
the Dunmore people listened thus dutifully to Mr.

1 66 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

Hunter of Eumeralla, they would never have
taken up Dunmore, which, in the future, turned out
a more valuable property than Eumeralla.

Nor would the Messrs. Aplin have got St. Kitts,
the runs of Yambuk and Tarronc being popularly
supposed to absorb all the available country between
their boundaries. Mr. Lemann, however, managed
to insert himself and his belongings, wedge-fashion,
between Tarrone and Kangatong, on the border of
the Tarrone Marsh. Though small of stature, and
not stalwart, he held his own, and fattened a
decent average of his herd of iooo or 1200 head
annually until he sold out to Mr. Smith. Mr.
Lemann had formerly been a kind of neighbour of
ours, having fed his herd previously in the vicinity
of a creek running into the Upper Yarra, near a flat
which, if I mistake not, is known as " Lemann's
Swamp " to this day.

He was a well-informed man, who took a great
interest in liberal politics. I well recollect his being
filled with righteous wrath at the high-handed act of
Rajah Brooke in making a clean sweep of a fleet of
pirates. I said then, and have since been confirmed
in my opinion, that the gallant ruler of Sarawak knew
his business better than his Exeter Hall critics.

Mr. Lemann had for working overseer and general
stand-between him and personal exertion a country
Englishman named Tom Cook, who with his wife
managed everything that his stock-rider Hugh was
not responsible for. I took some interest in the
family, as we had hired Thomas aforesaid from the
emigrant vessel as ploughman, and he had been in
our service in that capacity at Heidelberg. From

xvi THE ROMANCE OF A FREEHOLD 167

the fair-haired, fresh-coloured English farm labourer
that he was then, I watched his development
through various stages of colonial experience —
into dairyman, knock-about-man, bullock-driver, and
finally stock-rider at Kangatong. I rather think
he had his smock-frock when he came to us, with
English rustic tongue and gait. When I afterwards
saw him at Mr. Smith's muster (I had sold Mr. Gibb,
the dealer, who was lifting the fat cattle there, an
additional drove, just started for Melbourne, at £8
all round, cash) he was quite the stock-rider of the
period, with neat boots and seat to match, a sharp
eye for calves, and, alas ! a colonially-acquired taste
for grog, and a fight afterwards, if possible.

However, such were only occasional recreations,
between which he was a first-rate worker and most
worthy fellow. He and his good wife reared a
family of Australian-born East Saxons ; his eldest
son — a tall fellow with a team of his own, grown a
carrier — took away the first load of wool I ever sent
from Squattlesea Mere, in 1862 or thereabouts.

Among other things in which Cook showed his
power of adaptation was the building of a stone
cottage and dairy for Mr. Lemann. The country
being of volcanic formation, stone to any amount
was on hand, and he principally built the walls,
nearly two feet in thickness, of a very snug bachelor
establishment — a vast improvement, both in summer
and winter, upon the ordinary slab architecture.

After deciding not to buy Mr. Cox's heifer station,
I happened to be staying at Grasmere, when I met,
one evening, two strange gentlemen, a mile or two
from the place, coming along rather travel-worn as

1 68 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

to their steeds. These were my worthy friends
James Dawson, now of Camperdown, and his friend
and partner Mr. Selby. They, like Mr. Lemann,
had been trying to make cattle pay on the Upper
Yarra ranges — had, like him, concluded to start for
the west country, then reported to be the best grass
going, and not all taken up. They speedily heard
of Mr. Cox having a station for sale, and he soon
after returning from Tasmania, Mr. Dawson closed
with him for the £30 or thereabouts. Messrs.
Dawson and Selby shortly afterwards brought up
their cattle, and, with their belongings, occupied the
run. I always suspected Mr. Dawson, who was
philologically inclined, to have extracted the name
Kangatong from the aborigines subsequently, and
christened the run after his arrival. It was among
the things not generally known before his advent.
Gradually and judiciously, as time passed on, Kanga-
tong was improved, and so successfully managed that
it took rank as one of the best paying stations in the
district. Mr. Dawson and his family showed excep-
tional kindness towards the blacks who lived near
them. Kangatong was just outside of the " tauri,"
or hereditary district of " the Children of the Rocks,"
or matters might not have continued so pacific, my
old friend being of a temper singularly intolerant
of injustice. But his tribelet had long mingled with
the whalers of the Port, from which they were
distant less than twenty miles. I doubt Port Fairy
Campbell and his merry men had " civilised " them
previously — z'.e. shot a few of the more troublesome
individuals. However, Mr. Dawson succeeded in
making a valuable collection of data, from which

xvi THE ROMANCE OF A FREEHOLD 169

he was enabled to publish his late work upon the
manners, language, and religious customs of certain
Australian aboriginals, which has received favourable
mention from the Saturday and other leading
reviews.

CHAPTER XVII

LE CHEVALIER BAYARD

It was in a year " before the gold " that I
had occasion to ride to Kalangadoo, across the
Adelaide border near Mount Gambier. Kalangadoo
was a cattle station, then the property of the
Messrs. Hunter, Alick, Jemmy, and Frank, who
then dwelt there, and led the half-laborious, half-
romantic life which to the cattle-station holder of
the day was allotted. The " Mount Gambier mob,"
as in colonial parlance described, was at that time
composed of men the majority of whom had
attained to social distinction. Not far off, at
Compton, lived Evelyn Sturt, to my eyes the
veritable fine fleur of the squatter type. In that
year, let us say about 1850, he was a very grand-
looking fellow — aristocratic, athletic, adventurous ;
an explorer, a pioneer, a prenx chevalier in every
sense of the word, a leading colonist, with a strong
dash of Bayard about him ; popular with the men
of his set, and, it is unnecessary to say, a general
favourite with the women.

He had the features, the bold autocratic regard

chap, xvii LE CHEVALIER BAYARD 171

with which the early romance-writers were wont to
depict the Norman Baron, whose part I make no
doubt he would have acted creditably had Fate
but arranged his existence synchronically.

The prejudices of the day being against a younger
son's procuring a competence after the simple and
masterful plan of his ancestors, he was constrained
to betake himself with his brethren and kinsfolk to
far countries and unknown seas. And right manfully
had he, and they, of whom more than one name
shines brightly on the pages of modern history,
dared the perils of sea and shore, of waste and
wilderness.

He had been an explorer, was now a pioneer
squatter drawing nearer and yet nearer to the
goal of fortune. He had been rich, he had been
poor, had driven his own bullocks, and been
hardly pressed at times. But whatever the occupa-
tion or garb in which he elected to masquerade
temporarily, no one ever looked upon Evelyn Sturt
without its being strongly borne in upon his mind
that he saw a gentleman of high degree.

I admired him with a boy's natural feeling of hero-
worship. All that I saw and heard of him height-
ened the idea. Not less stalwart than refined,

But in close fight a champion grim,
In camps a leader sage.

The hero besides of numerous local legends. He had
leaped from a bridge into a flooded river and rescued
a drowning man. He had offered to suck the poison
from the wound of a snake-bitten stock-rider. He
had quelled the boldest bushman in a shearing row.

172 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

He was chief magistrate, universal referee, good at
all arms, gallant and gay. The modern exemplar
of the good knight and true.

Willie Mitchell was a different type — a more
recent importation — tall, slight, delicate in frame
and constitution — cultured and artistic ; he was the
nearest approach to the languid swell that in
that robust and natural-mannered epoch we had en-
countered. He had been enticed to Australia by
one of the Hunters, who, it appeared to us bush-
abiding colonists, were always going " home." They
had very properly pointed out to him that he could
obtain a high interest for his money by investing it
in stock, living like a gentleman the while — a point
upon which he was decided. He had recently
purchased a small but rich cattle run in the Mount
Gambier district, where the water was subterranean,
and the cattle had to be supplied by troughs.

He afterwards sold this and purchased Langa-
willi from Wright and Montgomery, who never did
a bit of good after they sold it, the most perfect
place and homestead in the West. But this by the
way.

Why Langa-willi will always be a point of interest
in my memory, apart from other reasons, was that
Henry Kingsley lived there the chief part of a year
as a guest of Mitchell's. It was at Langa-willi
that Geoffrey Hamlyn, that immortal work, the best
Australian novel, and for long the only one, was
written. In the well-appointed sitting-room of that
most comfortable cottage one can imagine the gifted
but somewhat ill-fated author sitting down comfort-
ably after breakfast to his " copy," when his host

xvn LE CHEVALIER BAYARD 173

had ridden forth with the overseer to make believe
to inspect the flocks, but in reality to get an appetite
for lunch.

I like to think of them spending the even-
ing sociably in their own way, both rather silent
men — Kingsley writing till he had covered the
regulation number of sheets — or finished the chapter,
perhaps, where the bushrangers came to Garoopna ;
Mitchell, reading steadily, or writing up his home
correspondence ; the old housekeeper coming in with
the glasses at ten o'clock, then a tumbler of toddy, a
smoke in the verandah, or over the fire if in winter,
and so to bed. Peaceful, unexciting days and nights,
good for Mitchell, who was not over-strong, and for
his talented guest. I suspect that in England, where
both abode in later years, they often looked back
with regret to the peerless climate, the calm days,
the restful evenings, spent so far beyond the southern
main at Langa - willi. The surroundings were
judiciously utilised by the author as furnishing
that flavour of verisimilitude which added so much
to the charm of his fiction. Baroona, where the
Buckleys lived, is the name of a property not far
from Mount Hesse, and Widderin, the name of Sam
Buckley's famous horse, is also that of a hill visible
from the plains of Skipton.

Mr. Mitchell, I may mention, was one of those
investors who apparently have only to buy a place to
make money out of it. He did so at the Mount
Gambler station, knowing no more of cattle and
their ways, when he bought it, than of the habits of
the alpaca. He then bought Langa-willi, with
20,000 sheep or so, having the same pleasing

174 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

ignorance of their tastes and management ; held
it till after the gold ; never did any work himself;
spent a fair portion of his time at the Melbourne
Club. Finally sold out at a handsome profit with
a large stock of sheep, and departed to England,
never to return.

This looks like luck. Doubtless there was an
infusion of that most agreeable ingredient. But I
have no doubt either that the mild and elegant
William possessed a reasonable share of prudence,
about which, like his other endowments and accom-
plishments, he said nothing. His first introduction
to our Port Fairy community was at race time,
when he appeared with the Hunters and Sturt,
riding a beautiful little blood mare called Medora,
a safe and easy mount, his long legs curiously near
the ground. There couldn't be, however, a nicer
fellow, and Australia will ever owe him a debt of
gratitude for extending the hand of generous and
delicate hospitality to the artist who first worthily
illustrated her free forest life, her adventurous sons
and daughters fair.

Charles Mackinnon, erst of Skye — old Charles
as he may possibly now be called, alas ! and may
not the insidious adjective be applied to others of his
contemporaries ? — dwelt hard by with Mr. Watson,
his partner. He yet lives in my memory as the
kindest of men. " Kind as a woman " exactly
describes his disposition as exemplified in my case.
There were no women, by the way, thereabouts in
those days, except black ones, who used to fetch in
the horses on foot, carry water, and otherwise make
themselves useful.

xvn LE CHEVALIER BAYARD 175

While at Kalangadoo I was suddenly knocked
over by a feverish attack — an exceptional case with
me — then, as now, tolerably tough ; but an hour
or two of that kind of thing takes the conceit out
of the best of us. Shivering and burning by turns,
with throbbing headache and nausea, I had to lie
down to it, and was very bad all one night.
Charles Mackinnon watched over me in the most
patient manner the while. We were new acquaint-
ances, too. I remember distinctly his appearance
next morning with a bowl of beef-tea, with which
I broke a twenty-four hours' fast.

Finding that I anxiously desired to become
possessed of a black boy, he procured me a small
imp, so young and callow that he fell off the quiet
old horse (which Mackinnon also lent me for him to
ride home on), and, sprawling in the midst of the
dust, cried piteously. Poor Charlie Gambier ! as I
named him — he had the honour of being christened
by his lordship the late Bishop Perry of Melbourne.
He was also taught, with great pains and persever-
ance, his catechism. He could read his Bible well.
He turned out much the sort of Christian that might
have been expected, deteriorating rapidly after
the age of fifteen, and learning to drink spirits
and copy the undesirable white man with painful
accuracy.

John Meredith, a scion of a well-known Tasmanian
family, was another resident within hail of the Mount.
A stalwart Australian in good sooth, 6 feet 4 inches,
or thereabouts, in his stocking-soles ; blue-eyed, fair-
bearded, and about twice as tall as any old-style
Cambrian, I should say, in the somewhat " rangey "

176 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

country whence his ancestors came. I had made
his acquaintance by riding from Melbourne with
him a year or so before. Having just come over
from Tasmania with a faithful retainer and four
horses, thence imported, he was journeying to a run
which he had bought.

He rode an immense black horse, which carried
him " like a pony," fifteen stone and over as his
weight probably then was ! I well remember specu-
lating as to how such a horse might be bred — a grand
forehand, clean fiat legs, active, powerful, blood-like,
a great jumper, and a good carriage horse.

Let any one try to pick up an animal of this
type, no matter what price he is prepared to give.
He will then realise the correctness of my conviction
then, wholly unaltered by after -experience, of his
rarity and value.

The faithful retainer, whose name was William
Godbold, was a grim-looking " old hand," who had,
however, risked his life in a memorable flood in order
to save a comrade.

Years after the faithful retainer came to work on
my station, and being looked upon as " such a good
man," was permitted to purchase a colt on credit.
He availed himself of the credit (and the colt) by
riding him across the border to Mount Gambier.
There was no extradition treaty in those days. A
fawn bay, with a black stripe down his back, a
shoulder cross and mule markings (see Darwin), four
years old, fast and sound — I never was paid for that
colt, and " still the memory rankles," trifling as is the
deficit ! Many debts have I forgiven. Some, alas !
have had to be forgiven to me. But that colt —

xvn LE CHEVALIER BAYARD 177

" Chilleno " by name, own brother to my best hack
" The Gaucha " — I can't forgive that one.

On my way out and back — it was some four or
five days' ride — I stayed at various stations. It was
de regie in those days, and I don't know a pleasanter
ending to a day's ride than meeting a hospitable
squatter in his own house. You have had just work
enough to tire you reasonably, to make you enjoy a
cheerful meal, some fresh unstudied talk (people are
twice as confidential in the bush, even with strangers,
as they are in town), a smoke in the verandah, and
the sound, peaceful sleep that follows all. Then the
awakening in the lovely fresh bush air, winter or
summer, the feeling is ennobling, invigorating. As
he fills his lungs and expands his breast therewith
the wayfarer feels a better and wiser man. Old
Mr. Robertson, a Scottish settler, had a lovely
station on the Wannon. To his homestead travellers
chiefly gravitated for reasons which he summarised
somewhat plainly on one occasion.

" Don't think I believe you come to see old
Robertson," he said. " In the summer it's the fruit
that fetches you, and in the winter Mary's jam."
Now, Miss Robertson's preserves and conserves were
the admiration of the whole district, while the orchard
in the season was a marvel for fruit of every kind
and sort.

I wish I could show those good people and certain
conceited gardeners who persist in pruning and cutting
every lower limb of their fruit trees, the orchard at
Wando Vale, as in those days. Great umbrageous
apple trees with long lateral branches trailing on the
ground, covered with fruit of the finest size and quality.

N

178 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.xvii

The remarkable thing about these apple trees was
that they had never been grafted or pruned. They
all came from the seed of a barrel of decayed apples,
and which, being of many different varieties, were, as
the old gentleman expressed it, " each better than
the other." That such is not the general result I am
aware, being a bit of a gardener myself, but it was
the fact in this instance, as I saw and tasted the fruit,
and have the word of the owner for it besides, who
planted the trees with his own hands.

Mr. Alfred Arden I remember visiting at Hilgay,
as also the late John Coldham of Grassdale. What
a lovely bit of country his was ! And is not all the
Wannon the " pick of creation " — Colac, perhaps,
excepted ? Low deep-swarded hills, rolling downs,
and thickly-timbered slopes, all wheat land, and forty
bushels to the acre at that. Too good for this wicked
world almost ! The men who took it up first had
hardly sufficient inducement to exert themselves.
There is such a thing as being too well off. I
am aware it is not good for me, above all men,
but I should like to have a try at bearing it
again, and risk

His dangerous wealth
With all the woes it brings.

CHAPTER XVIII

THE CHRISTENING OF HEIDELBERG

WHEN we came to Melbourne in 1840 we might
have bought all the land between Prince's Bridge and
Upper Toorak for the merest trifle above " upset
price." As to Sandridge, St. Kilda, and Brighton,
they might almost have been " taken up," so low was
the estimate of their value by the colonists of the
period. Mr. Dendy did pre-empt 5000 acres hard
by the city, at Brighton, under the special survey
regulations which then obtained, at ^1 per acre. We
certainly secured a trifle of seventy acres, upon which
the viceregal residence of Toorak was afterwards
erected. But some frivolous objection to the agri-
cultural properties of the soil weighed with the head
of the family, who, after a few unimportant purchases
of town allotments — such as two acres in Flinders
Street running back to the lane so named and ad-
joining Degraves' buildings, a half-acre near to the
corner of Collins and Elizabeth Streets, another in
Bourke Street, besides a dozen more in various parts
of Melbourne — finally decided to build and per-
manently reside at Heidelberg.

180 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

This romantically-named suburb was seven miles
from Melbourne, with an unmade road through black
soil of considerable richness, and a tenacity, when
resolved into mud, which I have, during much after-
experience, rarely seen equalled. It might have
appeared to some persons a matter of supererogation
this planting one's self so many miles away from an
infant settlement, such as Melbourne then was. A
matter involving loss of time, too, expense in transit,
besides exile from whatever society was then avail-
able. But these considerations availed not against the
charming prospect of a rural home, a country-house
surrounded by an estate of fertile land, bordered by
the clear-flowing Yarra, and glorified by a distant
prospect of the Australian Alps. But chiefly
alluring were the persuasive tongue, the sanguine
predictions, and the enjoyable al fresco entertain-
ments of Mr. R. H. Brown, a social celebrity of
the day, fashionable and distinguished, generally
known, from his reminiscent enthusiasm on the
subject of the grand European tour, as Continental
Brown.

This sentimental speculator, most refined of
land agents, had, either personally or as deputy for
a firm of Sydney capitalists, purchased a block of
land extending nearly from the Darebin Creek to
the village, and comprising the estates of Chclsworth,
Waverley, Hartlands, and Leighton. There was also
a section named Maltravcrs. I am not sure, indeed,
whether he did not christen the whole block " Mal-
travcrs," in compliment to the Master upon whose
melancholy, philosophical, resistless hero so many of
the viveurs of the day fashioned themselves.

xvni THE CHRISTENING OF HEIDELBERG 181

Slight, vivacious, soigne" in dress and courteous
of manner, a good business man (was he not
a bank director in his leisure moments, that is,
when he was not giving dinners and dejeuners,
getting up picnics, improvising balls and generally
faisant Vagreable all round ?), he managed to " place "
Heidelberg at a considerable advance upon the
original purchase money.

I can see him now in the centre of a group of
admiring friends, chiefly of the fair sex, standing
on one of the heights which overlooked the
meadows of the Yarra. " There, my dear madam,
permit me to direct your gaze. Do you not observe
the silver thread of the river winding through that
exquisite green valley ? It reminds me so vividly
of the gliding Neckar, and, alas ! (here a most
telling sigh) of scenes, of friends, loved and lost. I
can fancy that I look at my ever-remembered, ever-
regretted Heidelberg ! Those slopes rising from the
farther river-shore will be terraced vineyards ; and
there, where you can faintly discern the snow
pinnacle on yon spur of the Australian Alps, I
can imagine the grand outline of the Hartz Moun-
tains. It is, it shall be, Heidelberg ! Charles, open
more champagne. We must christen this thrice-
favoured spot, on this trebly-auspicious day, worthily,
irrevocably ! "

In some such fashion Heidelberg was named,
and, what was more to the purpose, sold. It is
undeniably strong as to scenery, superior as to soil ;
it has water privileges ; but seeing that all this
happened a trifle over forty years agone, it may
strike the original investors who still hold a pro-

1 82 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chaf.

portion of the ground, that they might have laid out
their cash to greater advantage, and that they have
waited a good while for that advance in prices
which will recoup everything.

Heidelberg, thus sponsored, took rank as a
fashionable suburb, and divers personages, according
to an inevitable natural law, were attracted thereto.
Captain George Brunswick Smyth, formerly of her
Majesty's 50th Regiment, purchased Chelsworth.
Mr. David M'Arthur came next to him. Then
Waverley and Hartlands, the Rev. John Bolden,
Mr. Hawdon at Banyule, and later on Dr. Martin,
beyond him again.

Still more distant, on the Rosanna estate, dwelt no
less a potentate than Mr. Justice Willis, the Supreme
Court Rhadamanthus of the day, who must have
expended considerably more than half his time in
driving in his carriage and pair into Melbourne and
back along the miry, almost impassable track into
which the winter rains invariably converted the road.

This not undistinguished legal celebrity we had
known in Sydney, and he presented himself to my
youthful intelligence as a good-natured, mild-man-
nered old gentleman, with whom I used to go quail
and duck shooting in the meadows bordering the
Yarra on Mr. Hawdon's and neighbouring estates.
On these occasions the late Mr. Archibald Thorn,
who rented part of Banyule from Mr. Hawdon,
often accompanied us. And a very deadly shot he
was.

The Judge shot fairly well, and after a decent
morning's sport was genial and gracious in a marked
degree. But when he doffed the russet tweeds and

xvin THE CHRISTENING OF HEIDELBERG 183

donned the ermine, he became utterly transformed.
It was averred, too, altogether for the worse. His
impatience of contradiction, his acerbity of manner,
and his infirmity of temper, were painful to witness,
and dangerous to encounter. They landed him in
contentions with all sorts and conditions of men, and
ultimately led to his suspension by the Governor-
General, a rare and exceptional proceeding.

I quote here verbatim from my journal, of date
Wednesday, 3rd August 1841 : —

Nothing particular happened on the farm to-day, but the
whole of Melbourne was in a commotion about His Honour
Judge Willis. It appears that His Honour having said that
he would commit anybody who offered to serve the order upon
him to go to Sydney, signed by the three judges there resident,
as being illegal, was met by Messrs. Carrington and Ebden,
who tendered the order to him, and, upon his refusing to take
it, actually threw it at him, upon which he immediately com-
mitted them to gaol. There was a great crowd, many of
whom supported the Judge, but others the prisoners. Some
gentlemen, however, were present and saw the insult offered.

On the following day's page I find further

allusion to this " high-toned " episode in Melbourne's

early life.

Thursday, 4th August 1841.

The gentlemen who insulted the Judge yesterday were
brought up before the Magistrates in order that they
might be committed to take their trial. However, strange to
say, in spite of the evidence of four or five respectable
persons who swore to the outrage, the worthy gentlemen were
acquitted. There were, however, upon the Bench several
personal enemies of the Judge. Many persons are of opinion
that the decision is infamous.

It will be seen that we then distinctly sided with
His Irascibility, and would doubtless have been a

1 84 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

vigorous partisan against the " personal enemies "
had we written for the press of the period. How-
ever, in spite of our sympathies, and those of other
well-meaning friends, His Honour Mr. Justice Willis
was compelled to go to Sydney, thence to England.
It was understood that he there gained a technical
victory, but had a hint to resign.

Mr. Thomas Wills owned " Lucerne," close by
Alphington, the village on the Darebin Creek since
called into being and so named. He had a
fancy for the great fodder plant, and was the first
proprietor in the neighbourhood to lay down any
considerable breadth of land with it. From it, or as
a souvenir of the world-renowned lake, the estate was
named.

I don't know that the Heidelberg proprietors
could be called a fortunate community. Some-
thing of the nature of disaster happened to all
of them. Possibly in the course of three or four
decades an average of misfortune occurs in most
families. But our district was exceptional. The
wreck of the London brought mourning and life-
long grief into one family. Cheery, kindly Joe
Hawdon, the pioneer, the explorer, the jolly squire
of Banyule, died when scarce over middle age. The
Bolden family lost two sons who had arrived at
man's estate — one killed by a fall from his horse ;
one, a young officer rising in the service, by a tiger
in India. Our house, endeared by many memories,
was burned by an incendiary, still undiscovered. A
tree fell on our good friend and neighbour, Mr,
M'Arthur, and very nearly crushed the life out of
him. Captain Smyth died young, and Lucerne has

xvm THE CHRISTENING OF HEIDELBERG 185

long been untenanted by any representative of the
Wills family.

Some of these fine days, they tell me, there will
be a railway to Heidelberg. Then the slopes will
be cut up into building sites, the river meadows
irrigated, or turned into market gardens and
creameries. The Australian Alps will be more
visible to the naked eye than ever. Some squatter
from Riverina or Queensland, who has just disposed
of his stations for half-a-million to a syndicate, will
build an imitation of the historic Castle, with the
Great Tun, to be filled with White Yering. Dances
of vignerons or happy peasants will be frequent ; and
Mr. R. H. Brown, if still in the flesh, may see his
prophetic vision so nearly fulfilled that it will hardly
be worth his while to return to a continental Elysium.
But, sentiment apart, there was a flavour of real
country life about the district, protected as it was
from intrusion on the east and north-east by the deep
unforded river, in which more than one death took
place from drowning. Heidelberg, apparently, always
had attractions for men whose sympathies lay in the
direction of stud farms and the improvement of stock.
Chelsworth then, as later on, was the home of pedi-
gree shorthorns, Captain Brunswick Smyth having
imported cows of very blue blood, which passed into
Mr. Bolden's possession, and were incorporated with
the Grasmere herd. Mahomet, Young Mussulman,
Lady Vane and her daughter were located at
Leighton ; whilst " Snoozer " by " Muley Moloch,"
and other sires of high lineage, abode hard by.
Yes ; in some respects the devoted admirer of Bulwer
Lytton had not over-coloured the landscape. Heidel-

186 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap, xviii

berg was undeniably picturesque, and had climatic
advantages. It was cooler than the sand-dunes of
Brighton and St. Kilda, than the low hills of Toorak,
than the river meadow upon which Melbourne proper
then chiefly stood. Waves of mountain air were
wafted from the Alps, on which, though many miles
distant, the snow was clearly visible. Those of
us who, in after years, were members of the old
Melbourne Club in Lower Collins Street, often
preferred a longish night ride for the immunity
from mosquitoes which Heidelberg then afforded.

The river meadows by the Yarra were composed
of a deep, black, fertile loam, eminently suited for
orchards, cereals, and root crops. Taking into con-
sideration the quality of the soil, the proximity of
the river, the variety of the landscape, no suburb
would have equalled Heidelberg in attractiveness
had it not been handicapped by distance from the
metropolis. Rail, road traffic, and settlement — all
appeared to have gone north, south, west ; anywhere
but towards Heidelberg.

Now that every foot of building land near
Melbourne has been bought and built upon — has
become " terraced slopes," in the evil sense of modern
overcrowding, perhaps the beneficent Heidelberg and
Alphington Railway will open up the untouched
glades which still silently overlook the murmuring
river, still lie hushed to sleep in the shadow of the
great Australian mountain chain.

CHAPTER XIX

THE WOODLANDS STEEPLECHASE

Oh ! the merry days,

The merry days, when we were young !

SANG the ladye fay-re. I can hear the clear rich
tones even now. Ah me ! what days were those !
Why will they not come back ? We are scarcely of
such hoar antiquity that we may not enjoy the
present reasonably, when " gracieuses " dames and
demoiselles look brightly on us with those haunting
eyes of theirs. But, oh ! the awakening at dawn,
that is when we find the difference. How glorious
was it to regain consciousness from out a realm of
poet dreams, with the certainty of a day of stirring
world -strife before us. At the reveille of that en-
chanted time, how gaily the knight donned harness
and mounted steed, serenely conscious of his ability
to perform his devoir " right manful under shield,"
confident of winning his guerdon, even, perchance, a
smile from the Queen of Beauty herself.

Now, alas, the sky seems lowering and sad-
coloured, the lines of the foe ever serried and close

1 88 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES CHAP.

ranked, the blows come shrewder and more difficult
of parry. More than once has the knight been, by-
trusty squire or faithful friend,

Dragged from amid the horses' feet,
With dinted shield and helmet beat.

We were ever and anon minded to answer in the
affirmative to the " rendez vous ! " of Fate so persist-
ently repeated. Yet will we forward still, parrying
lance-thrust here, fending sword-play there. Many
a trusty comrade is down ; we miss the cheery tones
of a voice that sounded never far from our right arm,
in feast or in foray. Yet still en avant seems more
natural than halt or retreat.

Ye gods ! what a spring morning was that on
which we hurled ourselves out of bed at Woodlands,
with the full, absorbing, wildly-exciting knowledge,
even in that first moment of consciousness, that The
Steeplechase was to be run that day — an Olympic
game in which we were to share. A truly classic
conflict in which the competitors were mostly men
of mark, where the spectators were friends, relatives,
and sympathisers, and where divine personages in
the shape of various ladies of the period, lovely and
beloved, were to gaze upon our prowess, thrill at
our daring, and " weep when a warrior nobly falls."

We had a warrior, Colonel Acland Anderson —
poor fellow ; we had four squatters, Molesworth and
Rawdon Greene, Edmund M'Neill, and " the duffer
who writes this " reminiscence. Last, not least,
we had a Chief-Justice in posse. He wasn't Sir
William in those days, only a hard -riding, hard-
working, manifestly rising barrister, perhaps not inaptly

xix THE WOODLANDS STEEPLECHASE 189

described by a maid-servant from the Emerald Isle,
at a house where he had called, and who, in the
fluster of the interview, had forgotten his name, as
" a mighty plisant young man with foxy whiskers."

We were a goodly company, all staying at Wood-
lands for a week or two — have people leisure and
inclination to do this sort of thing now ? — and this
steeplechase had been improvised to take place on
the plain before Woodlands House, as an acceptable
variation of the ordinary programme, which comprised
other entertainments besides the orthodox dance
which ended the day. Was there not also another
legal celebrity not as yet graced with the accolade ?
Cheery, cultured, courteous Redmond Barry — did
he not write a charade duly enacted by us youths
and maidens, besides coaching us in " The Chough
and Crow " and divers glees and part-songs ?

In that Arcadian period what a nice place
Woodlands was ! Somehow one could afford to
take life more easily in those days. The sons of
the house were sometimes up the country at their
stations, especially at shearing time, but managed to
be a good deal at the old home. And when they
were there the chatelaine wisely took heed to make
home a pleasant place ; to that end inviting friends
and well-wishers, among whom I had the privilege
to be inscribed. Great were the doings done, and
very pleasant the days we spent there.

Thus Woodlands stands before me, looking back
over those half- forgotten days, as " the country-house "
par excellence of the period.

Neither a farm nor yet a large estate, it was
something between the two, while the household and

190 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

the menage generally were more in accordance with
the habitudes of English country-house life than
often obtains in Australia.

Mr. Pomeroy Greene, resolving to make Victoria
his future home, had emigrated after a comprehensive
fashion — not now so common. He brought with
him, in addition to his large family, a house, with
men-servants and maid-servants, horses and carriages,
farm tools and implements, nearly everything which
he could have needed had he proceeded to free-select
an uninhabited island. Was there not "Rory O'More,"
a son of " Irish Birdcatcher " ; " Nora Creina," dam
by " Drone " ; the graceful " Taglioni," and the hunter
" Pickwick," a big, powerful, Galvvay-looking nag, up to
any weight over any height, and not too refined to draw
a cart or do a day's harrowing on a pinch? An exceed-
ingly useful stamp of horse in a new country, most
of us will admit, and quite worth his passage money.

Also, in this connection, came Tom Brannigan, an
active, resolute, humorous young Irishman, with a
decided family likeness to one Mickey Free about
him. He was stud groom, and a model retainer
during the first years of the settlement of Woodlands.
Let me not forget Smith, the butler, a decorous,
solemn personage of staid demeanour and faultless
accuracy of get-up, an occasional twinkle of the
eye only at times betraying that he belonged to
the Milesian and not the Saxon branch of his widely-
dispersed family and vocation.

Just thirteen miles from Melbourne, Woodlands
was a pleasant morning or afternoon's ride — an easy
drive. You left Melbourne by the Flemington
road, traversed the Moonee Ponds, finally debouch-

xix THE WOODLANDS STEEPLECHASE 191

ing upon the plain, whence you saw the house, built
bungalow fashion upon a wooded slope, with flanking
wings and a courtyard, verandah-encircled likewise,
facing eastward towards Sunbury, and on the west
having an extensive outlook over plain and forest,
with the sea in the distance. The landscape was
extensive, " wide and wild, and open to the air," but
sufficiently wooded to prevent the expression of bleak-
ness. These thoughts possibly do not occur to me
as I dress provisionally in shooting coat, slippers, etc.,
and rush out to the stables to look at the gallant
steed that is to carry Caesar and his fortunes, a
game-looking Arab grey, fast and a good fencer, the
property of one John Fitzgerald Leslie Foster — a
guest at the time, and lent to me for the occasion.
Only been a few days off grass, though otherwise in
good buckle. The certainty of his being short of con-
dition does not weigh with me, however, so anxious
am I to have a throw in and sport my tops and cords.
Tom Brannigan thinks " he has a great spring in him
entirely," and encourages me to hope that a lucky
chance may land me a winner. He relates an anecdote
of his brother Jim, a well-known steeplechase jock,
in a race where the fences were terrific. One of
the country people was heard to say, " Sure the most
of them would break their necks, but Jim Brannigan
and the ould mare would have a leg to spare, some-
how or somehow." Much comforted by this apposite
reference, I shut the door, and inspect the rest of the
stable. It is not a very small one.

Having a look for the hundredth time at " Rory
O'More" — a beautiful brown horse, showing great
quality, with a strong likeness to " The Premier " in

192 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chai\

more than one of his points, and glancing at a couple
of yearlings — I betake myself to an inspection of
the battle-steeds of the day.

They are a goodish lot, and in that state and
condition of fife which impress on me the idea
that, unless under the favouring accident of a general
boaleversement, my chance of winning is slender
indeed. First of all stands an elegant blood-looking
grey, the property of the heir -apparent, sheeted,
hooded, and done up in great style. He is as " fit
as a fiddle," and will have on his back an exceed-
ingly cool and determined rider — who, like Mr.
Stripes, " will not throw a chance away."

Next to him is a powerful, hunter -looking bay,
an animal which would fetch about four hundred
guineas in England. Let me describe him — remem-
bering as I do every hair in his skin. I had ridden
him more than once, and the reader, if he has been
home lately, will note if I have overrated his price.
A three-quarter or four-fifths bred horse, bay with
black points, save one white hind leg. A light, well-
shaped head, a good neck, and shoulders so oblique
that it took the length of the snaffle bridle to pay
out for rein ; flat and clean bone under the knee,
deep across the heart, powerful quarter, with
muscular thighs and well -bent hocks. He would
have been quite in the English fashion of the
present day, as he had a shortish pulled tail.
Height about fifteen hands three inches, on short
legs.

This was "Thur'mpogue," the property of Edmund
M'Neill, of the firm of Hall and M'Neill, near Daisy
Hill. The portrait is that of a weight-carrier,

xix THE WOODLANDS STEEPLECHASE 193

doubtless. And so he needed to be, the aforesaid
Edmund being of the unusual height of six and
a half feet. Though not particularly broad, it will
be seen that he could not be a very light man. In
another box stands a long, low, blood-like chestnut
horse. He winces and lays back his ears after a
fashion which indicates temper, as the boy pulls the
sheet off at my instigation. The test is a true one.
What little he has is proverbially bad, and he has
deposited so many riders in unexpected localities by
" mount, and stream, and sea," that a less resolute
horseman than the Chief would have fought shy of
him as an investment. He is in great form, how-
ever, and as hard as nails, his close bright golden
coat shining like shot satin. I involuntarily give
vent to an exclamation, which denotes that my own
and other people's chances have receded since inter-
viewing " The Master of the Rolls," for such is the
legal luminary I now behold.

Back to bedroom and bath ; for by this time
dressing has set in seriously all over the house, and
the bachelors' apartments, in a separate wing, resound
with the careless talk and frequent laughter which are
sure to emanate from a number of friends in the
golden prime. All sorts of opinions are volunteered
about the merits of each other's horses, sarcastic
hints as to horsemanship and condition, laughing
retorts and confident anticipations, are to be heard
on every side, welling out from the bed-chambers and
along the corridors, into which, with the exuberance
of youth, the inmates, in various stages of apparelling,
likewise overflow.

We all met at breakfast, of course. Talk about

O

194 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

suppers ! There may be, doubtless, a fair share of
enjoyable " causerie," or even serious love-making, at
supper, " when wit and wine sparkle instead of the
sun " ; but for real, honest, hearty enjoyment, when
all is sanguine anticipation of excitement or success,
with good weather, good spirits, and good com-
pany, commend me to a country-house at break-
fast time, where the sexes are judiciously mingled,
and a hunt, a steeplechase, or a picnic is on the
cards. There may be a few things better in this
life of ours. If so, I have seldom come across
them.

Of course it was then and there arranged who
were to drive whom — what traps, carriages, hacks,
and so on were to be requisitioned. The organisa-
tion even went so far — if my memory serves me — as
that every knight should be presented with the
colours of some ladyc fayrc — after humble petition
on bended knee — by my halidome ! — which he
doubtless swore to carry to the front, or nobly
fall.

I don't retain a clear account of the preliminaries
on the morning of the "Grand National"; but I think
we must have made as much fuss and given as much
trouble. When, about mid-day, we turned out on the
plain below Woodlands House, where the carriages
were drawn up and the spectators assembled in
expectation of our appearance, the excitement had
passed from the stage of tireless energy to that of
fervent concentration. Each man wore an aspect of
settled, unflinching resolution, such as might have
befitted, in an after-time,

xix THE WOODLANDS STEEPLECHASE 195

Those who ran the tilt that day
With Death, and bore their lives away
From the Balaclava Charge !

Out we came at last, a fairish field to look at,
men and horses, though I say it. I should premise
that the leaps were composed of two-railed fences,
brushed underneath, about fifteen in all, from four
feet to four feet six in height, and sufficiently stiff,
as the event proved.

On the upper or eastern side of the course, where
shade was procurable, were entrenched the carriages
and non-combatants, among whom Mr. Redmond
Barry, Mr. Leslie Foster, William Anderson, " Count "
Ogilby, and other disengaged cavaliers, who did their
devoir in entertaining the ladies and judiciously
criticising the field. Jimmy Ellis, friend and pastoral
partner of one William Stawell, a brisk, black-bearded,
hard-riding little Milesian, was starter and clerk of the
course. Here we came up for the last time, more or
less soberly or skittishly, to the post, with cords and
tops, silk jackets and caps, " accoutred proper," full
jockey costume being de rigueur. A correct card of
the race would probably have read as follows. The
colours of the riders may have partially faded out of
memory's ken, inasmuch as " it was many and many
a year ago."

1. Mr. Molesworth Greene's grey horse " Trifle," four years,

pink and white — ridden by owner.

2. Mr. Stawell's "Master of the Rolls," aged chestnut,

scarlet and black — owner.

3. Mr. E. M'Neill's bay horse " Thur'mpogue," blue and

silver — owner.

4. Mr. Acland Anderson's bay horse " Spider," ridden by

Mr. Rawdon Greene — crimson and gold.

196 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chai\

5. Mr. William Anderson's chestnut horse " Murgah,"

ridden by Mr. Acland Anderson — maroon jacket, black
cap.

6. Mr. Leslie Foster's grey horse " Achmet," ridden by

Mr. Rolf Boldrewood — white and magenta.

We are marshalled in line by Jimmy Ellis, and
a good start not being so vitally important as in a
flat race, we get comfortably away.

Pretty close together we charge the first fence,
which is negotiated with " ease to the riders and satis-
faction to the lookers-on." The turf is green and
firm, and the distance to the next fence rather greater,
so we make the pace better, and, as we near it, blood
begins to tell.

The brothers Greene are first over, followed by
"Thur'mpogue," the rider of the "Master of the Rolls"
lying off, and evidently doing a little generalship. In
the second division come my grey and William
Anderson's chestnut. Both clear the fence well, and
pull double, as we try to keep what wind they have,
available for the finish.

So we fare on ; each fence shows that the race
will mainly lie between Molesworth Greene's grey
and the chestnut of Mr. Stawell, the latter taking all
his fences in stride, and looking as resolute as at
the first. Rawdon Greene, Acland Anderson, and
M'Neill are riding jealously for second place.

The pace is now as good as we can make it.
We are all at the second fence from home. The
grey and the chestnut, almost neck and neck, are
taking their leaps together, " Trifle " with a slight lead.
Wc arc all going our best. It has come to the do-
or-die stage, and every man sets his teeth and rides

xix THE WOODLANDS STEEPLECHASE 197

for his life. We are in full view of the grand stand
too. I have been taking a pull at my grey, and
manage, by a rush, to send him up into respectable
prominence, when Rawdon Greene's horse hits a
top-rail a terrible clout, which flies up and disturbs
" Thur'mpogue's " sensitive nerves as he measures his
distance for the leap. Half looking back, half jump-
ing, he strikes the rail close to the post. It bends,
but does not break. The big horse balances for a
moment, and then falls, rolling heavily over his rider.
" Thur'mpogue " rises in a moment, and makes a bee-
line — head up and rein flying — for the nearest road
to Daisy Hill — a practice "quite frequent" with him
whenever he happens to get loose. His rider does
not rise, or indeed move for a few minutes. He has
broken a rib, and, like Mr. Tupman, had all the
temporary supply of breath knocked out of his body.
The rest of the field finish creditably close, Moles-
worth Greene's grey being beaten on the post by the
" Master of the Rolls."

We did not wait there long, every one being
anxious about the precise amount of damage sustained
by " Emun Mhor," or Long Edmund, as we heard he
was called by the tenantry of the estate after his
return to Ireland. Knowing that if he did not die
on the field, he would naturally be anxious for the
safety of such a horse as " Thur'mpogue," and an ex-
tremely swell Wilkinson and Kidd saddle, I started
off on the track, and was lucky enough to run him
down just as he was preparing to cross the Deep
Creek. As I led him back I encountered Jimmy
Ellis, also running the trail like a black tracker, with
his head so low to the ground that he did not see me

198 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

till I was close on top of him. When we returned
to the scene of our contest the wounded warrior was
being conveyed to the house in Mrs. Anderson's
barouche, doubtless receiving an amount of sympathy
which fully compensated for the pain and incon-
venience of his mishap.

He was not able to join in the dance which
delightfully finished up the day's entertainment, or,
indeed, to leave his room ; but he was an interesting
personage thenceforth, with his arm in a sling, and
gained prestige and consideration during the re-
mainder of the revels.

The worst of these brief sketches, roughed off at
intervals snatched from a busy life when

Mournful memory sitteth singing
Of the days that are no more,

is that melancholy reflections will obtrude themselves.
How many of one's comrades who made the joy of
that pleasant time arc no more ! Of that same
cheery gathering, how many lie low — how small
a party should we now make could we meet —
how different would be our greetings !

It boots not to grieve. If we don't ride steeple-
chases, or try conclusions with the half-tamed steed,
we still find a warm place in our hearts for a good
hack. His Honour Sir William Stawell doesn't do
much in the four-in-hand line nowadays, but I hear
that he can walk up a mountain yet, and do his
share of bush travelling in vacation. Life is but
a battlefield at best, and we, the survivors of more
than one decisive action, must bow to the merciful
fate which has kept us so far unscathed, while in

xix THE WOODLANDS STEEPLECHASE 199

secret we make moan over those who lie beneath
green turf or murmuring wave, desert sand or
wild -wood tree ; whose place in our hearts, spite
of careless speech and smiling brow, may never be
filled up.

CHAPTER XX

YERING

When Mr. Lemuel Bolden and I rode to Yering
from Heidelberg, about the year 1845, to Pay a
promised visit to Mr. William Ryrie, the Upper
Yarra road and the place of our destination pre-
sented a different appearance.

We forded the Yarra below Mr. D. C. M'Arthur's
orchard, and crossing a heavily-timbered river-flat,
with deep reed-fringed lagoons, debouched on the
up-river road. This particular locality was well
known to me, inasmuch as, being formerly in our
pastoral possession, it had constituted a species of
" chase " in my early sporting days. The only
denizens of that period were an occasional pair of
sawyers, generally " Derwenters," as the Tasmanian
expirees were called, thither attracted by the unusual
size and straightness of the timber which grew in
the flats and " bends " of the winding Yarra.

Owing to the sinuous shape of the lagoons on
the south side of the river, coupled with the dense
nature of the thickets, it was not an easy matter for
a stranger to find his way through the maze. It

chap, xx YE RING 20 1

naturally came to be, therefore, the happy hunting
ground of my boyhood ; many a grand day's sport
and thrilling adventure did I have therein.

The largest lagoon was fringed with a wide
border of reeds, growing in deep water. It had in
the centre a clear lakelet or mere, upon the lonely
waters of which disported the mountain duck, with
his black and other congeners, the greater and lesser
grebe ; while among the reeds waded or flew the
heron {Ardea australis), the sultana water-hen, a
red-billed variety of the coot, the bittern, the land-
rail, and in the season an occasional flock of pied
geese or black swans.

To approach the wild-fowl in the open mere was
a work of difficulty, if not of danger, inasmuch as
the water was too deep for wading, and the entangle-
ment with weeds — which then cost more than one
strong swimmer his life — was not out of the reckoning.
I did once struggle to the verge of total exhaustion
within the green meshes of one of these weed
nets, in a lonely pool in which I had to swim for a
black duck. The thought uppermost in my mind
was that it would be such a time before I should be
found, in case of — an accident which didn't come off.
I used to circumvent my feathered friends in the
horse-shoe lagoon by climbing a tree upon the slope
which lay opposite. From this coign of vantage I
could see the birds swimming in fancied security,
and lay plans accordingly. In order to open fire
with effect, I had caused to be conveyed a light
canoe, which one of my sawyer friends had neatly
scooped out for me, into the outer mere among the
reeds. It was in waist-deep water — carefully con-

202 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chai\

cealed, and I could, of course, gain it unseen.
Paddling or pulling it through the outer reed-brake,
I ensconced myself at the edge of the clear water,
waiting patiently until the unsuspecting birds sailed
past. Once I remember getting two couple of black
duck. An occasional goose, or even the lordly
swan, found its way into my bag.

Once, as I had planned a day's shooting, I was
startled by seeing a flock of ducks wheeling around,
and finally making straight for the South Pole, as if
decided not to return for a year. Gazing angrily
around to discern the cause of this untoward migra-
tion, I descried a man carefully got up in correct
shooting rig emerge from the reeds. Half-paralysed
by the audacity of the unknown — this was years
before the free-selection discovery — I sat still in my
saddle for one moment. Then, as the enormity of
the offence — trespass on our run — rose before me,
I dashed spurs into my horse and charged the
offender.

" What's your name, and what do you mean by
coming here to shoot and frighten the ducks ? " I
called out, stopping my frantic steed within a few
feet of him. " Don't you know whose ground you're
on?"

The unknown looked calmly at me with a rather
amused countenance (I was about fourteen, and
scarcely looked my age), and then said, " Who the
devil are you ? "

" My name's Boldrcwood," I returned, " and this
is our run, and no one has any right to come here and
shoot or do anything else without my father's leave."

" Gad ! I thought it was the Lord of the Manor

xx YER1NG 203

at least ! You're a smart youngster, but I don't know
that there are any game laws in this country. What
are you going to do with me for instance ? "

The stranger turned out to be a guest at a neigh-
bouring station. There were cattle stations in the
vicinity in those days. Anyhow, we compromised
matters and finished the day together.

Not far from the spot the late John Hunter
Kerr, afterwards of Fernihurst, had a veritable cattle
station. I attended one of the musters for a purpose.
The cattle were in the yard, with various stock-
riders and neighbours sitting around, preparatory to
drafting, as I rode up, attended by a sable retainer
driving a horse and cart.

What did I please to want ? " I've come for our
black J. B. bullock," said I. " He has been running
with your cattle these two years, and I thought he
would most likely come in with your muster."

" He is here sure enough, and in fine order, but
how are you going to take him home ? He always
clears the yard when we begin to draft, and no stock-
rider about here can drive him single-handed."

" I'll take him home fast enough," returned I,
with colonial confidence, " if he'll stay in the yard
long enough for me to shoot him."

" Oh, that's the idea," quoth Mr. Kerr. " Go to
work ; only don't miss him or drop any of my
cattle."

" No fear."

Old Harvey, an expatriated countryman of Cete-
wayo's, handed me my single-barrelled fowling-piece,
a generally useful weapon, which had been loaded
with ball for the occasion. I walked cautiously

204 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

through the staring, wildish cattle, to the middle of
the yard, where stood the big black bullock. He
lowered his head, and began to paw the ground. I
made a low bovine murmur, which I had found
effective before ; he raises his head and looks full
at me for a second. The bullet crashes into the
forehead "curl," and the huge savage lies prone — a
quivering mass. Harvey promptly performs the
necessary phlebotomy, and being dragged out of the
yard, the black ox is skinned, quartered, and on his
way to the beef-cask at Hartlands well within twenty
minutes of his downfall.

Years after, when a full-fledged Riverina squatter,
Mr. Kerr and I met in partibus. He at length re-
called my name and locale, remarking, " Oh yes !
remember now ; you were the boy that shot the
black bullock in my yard at South Yarra long
ago.

Well, Mr. Bolden and I ride along the winding,
gravelly bush road, over ranges that skirt and at
times leave the course of the river wholly, not seeing
a house or a soul, except Mr. Gardiner's dairy farm,
for more than twenty miles. The country, in an
agricultural and pastoral point of view, is as bad as
can be. Thick — i.e. scrubby, poor in soil, scanty as
to pasture, when all suddenly, as is so often the case
in Australia, we come upon a " mountain park."

We cross a running creek by a bridge. We see
a flock of sheep and a shepherd, the genuine " old
hand " of the period. The slopes are gently rising
towards the encircling highlands, the timber is pleas-
ingly distributed, the soil, the pasture, has improved.
We are in a new country. We have entered upon

xx YERING 205

Yering proper, a veritable oasis in this unredeemed
stringy-bark desert.

How Mr. William Ryrie, in the year 1837 or
1838, brought his flocks and herds and general
pioneer equipment straight across country from Arn-
prior in far Monaro in New South Wales, hitting
precisely upon this tenantless lodge in the wilderness,
will always be a marvel. It was one of the feats
which the earlier explorers occasionally performed,
showing their fitness for the heroic work of colonisa-
tion, wherein so many of them risked life and limb.
With the great pastoral wild of Australia Felix
lying virgin and unappropriated before him, Mr.
Ryrie might easily have made a more profitable, a
more expansive choice. But he could not have
hit upon a more ideal spot for the founding of an
estate and the formation of a homestead had he
searched the continent.

Amid the variously-gathered outfit which accom-
panied the pastoral chief, as he led flocks, herds,
and retainers through unknown wilds to the far
promised land, happened to be some roots of the
tree, the survival of which caused Noah so much
uneasiness, and more or less humbled his descendants,
before John Jameson and Co. took up the running
with the now fashionable product of the harmless
avena. A few grape vines reached the spot unharmed.
Planted in the first orchard on the rich alluvial of the
broad river-flat which fronted the cottage, they grew
and flourished, so richly that the area devoted to the
vine was soon enlarged. From such small beginning
arose the vineyards of Yering and St. Hubert's.
From those, again, Messrs. de Pury and others

206 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

planted the wine-producing district which has now a
European reputation.

Little of this, however, was apparent to my com-
panion and myself, or we might have been enter-
taining royalty by this time — who knows ? — carrying
ourselves like other eminent and gilded colonists,
envied by everybody and sneered at by our less
fortunate compatriots. We rode steadily on, through
hill and hollow, past plump cattle, not, however,
showing quite so much white and roan as do the
present herds ; past a " manada " of mares and
foals, from which ran out to challenge our steeds
Clifton the Second, " with flying mane and arching
crest." Finally we ride up to a neat weatherboard
cottage, whence issues our kindly, warm-hearted
host, breathing welcome and hospitality in every
tone of his jolly voice. We were soon enjoying
the change of sensation, which after a thirty-mile
ride is of itself a luxury. With him as visitors were
"Hobbie" Elliot, a well-known squatter of the period,
and a stalwart younger brother just out from home.

The cottage, as I remember it then, was built
upon a slight elevation overlooking a richly-grassed
meadow, below which the Yarra, not much less wide
and rapid than near Melbourne, ran its winding
course. On the farther side of the river, looking
eastward, was a purple -shadowed mountain, ap-
parently, though not in reality, overhanging the
stream. In the dimmer distance rose the vast
snow -crowned range of the Australian Alps. We
walked about after our afternoon meal, admiring the
great growth of the trees in the garden, and the
picturesque appearance of things generally.

xx YERING 207

On the next day we took a long ride, and, I well
remember, crossed the river upon a primitive bridge,
which enables me to say to this day that I have
ridden across a river upon a single tree. It was
even so. An enormous eucalyptus [E. amygdalind),
growing upon the bank of the Yarra, had been
felled or grubbed — I think the latter — so as to fall
across the stream. Afterwards it had been adzed
level — a hand-rail had been supplied. A quiet horse
could therefore be easily led or ridden across to the
other side, the width being an average of three feet.

We crossed that way, I know, next day, and had
a look at the Heifer Station, as the trans-Yarra run
was then called. It was a sort of Yering in
miniature, not so open, and much smaller. To it,
however, our host was compelled to retire, when
(upon how many good fellows has the same fate
fallen ?) he made a compulsory sale to Paul de
Castella and his partner, another Swiss gentleman.
Fortunately for him, pastoral property rose in value
prodigiously " after the gold," so that he was enabled
to sell the heifer station for five times as much
as he got for Yering.

However, " unconscious of our doom," we took a
long and pleasant ride through ferny dales, and
darksome woods where the giant eucalypti reared
their heads to heaven. We watched the sparkling
streamlets dash down their course from alpine
heights, praised the cattle and horses, and returned
with appetites of the most superior description.
Our chief adventure was in crossing a water-laden
flat, when Mr. Elliot, jun., raised his long legs high
on his horse's sides to escape splashing. That

2o8 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

animal, being young and " touchy," immediately ex-
hibited a fair imitation of that well-known Australian
gambade known as "buck-jumping." For the honour
of Scotia, however, our friend, new chum as he was,
stuck to the pigskin, and was justly applauded at
the end of the performance.

Live stock were cruelly low about that time — £1
a head for store bullocks, and so on. Fat cattle
were never worth more than £3 each, often consider-
ably under that modest price. The expense of stock-
management bore hard upon receipts, particularly
when the proprietor had not inherited the saving
grace of " screwiness." Our host, gallant, generous,
warm-hearted William Ryrie, was not in that line ;
far otherwise. As a matter of fact, Ycring was sold
to Messrs. de Castella and Co., within a year of our
visit, for two or three thousand pounds — some such
trifle, at any rate.

So Yering passed into the hands of another good
fellow. Though " foreign," and not " to the manor
born," he quickly demonstrated his ability to acquire
the leading principles of stock - management. Of
course, the gold came to his aid, causing the cattle
he had purchased at £2 each to be worth ^8 or £10,
and in other ways making things easy for an enter-
prising pastoralist. Besides managing the herd
satisfactorily, Mr. de Castella saw his way to
developing the vineyard, enlarging it twenty or fifty
fold, besides building cellars, wine-presses, and all
the adjuncts of scientific vine-culture. He imported
French or Swiss vignerons, and commenced to acquire
that high reputation for " white and red Yering "
Hermitage which remains unblemished to this day.

xx YERING 209

Years afterwards, when the tide of pastoral
prosperity throughout the colonies was high and
unwavering, I made another visit to the spot, under
different circumstances and in far other company.
A large party had been invited by Mr. and Mrs. de
Castella to spend a week at Yering, when a picnic,
a dance, and all sorts of al fresco entertainments
were included in the programme.

We were to meet at Fairlie House, South Yarra,
and the day being propitious, the gathering was
successful ; the cortege decidedly imposing. Charlie
Lyon's four-in-hand drag led the way ; Lloyd Jones's
and Rawdon Greene's mail phaetons, with carriages
and dog-carts, following in line — it was a small Derby
day. The greater proportion of the ladies were ac-
commodated in the vehicles. There were horsemen,
too, of the party. The commissariat had been sent
on at an early hour, accompanied by a German band,
retained for the occasion, to a convenient halting
place for luncheon. As we rattled along the broad,
straight roads of Kew we saw hedges of roses, orchards
in spring blossom, miles of villas and handsome houses,
all the signs of a prosperous suburban population.
How different from the signs of the past !

Early in the afternoon we sighted the dark-browed
Titan on the hither side of which the homestead lay.
Mending our pace, we entered a mile-long avenue,
cleared with a bridegroom's munificence, as a fitting
approach for so fair a bride, on the occasion of his
marriage.

I don't think we danced that night — the fairer
portion of the company being moderately travel-
worn — but we made up for it on the succeeding

P

210 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chaf.

ones. Each day's programme had been marked
out, and arrangements made in regal style. Some
of us had sent on our favourite hacks ; side-saddle
and other horses were provided by the host in any
quantity. Riding parties, picnics to fern gullies, to
Mount Juliet, and other places of romantic interest,
were successfully carried out. Races were impro-
vised. Shooting parties, fishing excursions, kangaroo
and opossum battues — everything which could im-
press the idea that life was one perpetual round
of mirth and revelry — had been provided for.

As we sat at mid-day on the velvet green
sward, by fern-fringed streamlets, under giant gums
or the towering patriarchs of the mountain ash, while
merry jest and sparkling repartee went round,
ardent vow and rippling laughter, we might
have been taken — apart from the costume — for
an acted chapter out of " Boccaccio." When we
came dashing in before sunset, the sound of our
approach was like that of a cavalry troop, or the
rolling hoof-thunder of marauding Apaches. The
Germans were musicians of taste ; to the " Morgen-
blatter " and the " Tausend-und-eine Nachte " valses
we danced until the Southern Cross was low in the
sky, while as we watched the moon rise, flooding
with silver radiance the sombre Alp, and shedding a
passing gleam on the rippling river, all might well
have passed for an enchanted revel, where mirth,
moon, and music would disappear at the waving
of a wand.

Years had rolled on since my first visit to the
pioneer homestead. The cottage had disappeared,
or was relegated to other purposes. In its place

xx YE RING 211

stood a mansion, replete with the appliances of
modern country-house life. The vineyard covered
acres of the slope, and the grapes were ripening upon
thousands of trellised vines. The stables were filled
with high - conditioned, high-priced animals, with
grooms and helpers in proportion to their needs.

In the meadows below the house grazed hundreds
of high-priced shorthorns, some hundreds of which
had been purchased from me, Rolf, a few months
previously, so that I had the exceptional privilege
of drawing attention to the quality of my herd.
Steeds of price were there that day. Diane and
Crinoline, two peerless ladies' horses ; Mr. de
Castella's half- Arab carriage pair; Sir Andrew
Clarke's roan Cornborough hackney, equally perfect
in harness ; Mr. Lyon's team of chestnuts, high bred
and well matched, not to mention the swell bright
chestnut mare " Carnation," for which the owner had
refused eighty guineas from an Indian buyer.

The cool, capacious wine-cellars played their
part on the occasion, being requisitioned for their
choicest " cru." Soda was abundant, the weather
warm, and the daily consumption of fluid must
have been serious. When the " decamerone "
expired, the guests, one and all, were ready to testify
that never did mortals more deeply drink of Pleasure's
chalice, never return to the prose of ordinary life
with more sincere regret.

CHAPTER XXI

TALES OF A " TRAVELLER "

THIS is a " horsey " sketch, possibly therefore un-
acceptable to the general reader. But any chronicle
of my early days, connected as they were with the
birth of a great city, would be incomplete without
mention of the noble animal so dear to every
youthful Australian.

Reared in an atmosphere redolent of the swift
courser's triumphs, often compelled to entrust life
and limb to the good horse's speed, care indeed
requires to be taken that the southern Briton does
not somewhat overvalue his fascinating dumb com-
panion— overvalue him to the exclusion from his
thoughts of art and science, literature and dogma —
to the banishment of rational conversation, and a
preference for unprofitable society. So thought an
old family friend, Mr. Felton Mathew (he upon his
blood bay "Glaucus," and I upon my Timor pony),
as we rode towards Enmore from Sydney in old, old
days. He testily exclaimed, " For Heaven's sake,
Rolf, don't go on talking about horses everlastingly,
or you'll grow up like those colonial lads that never

chap, xxi TALES OF A " TRAVELLER" 213

have another idea in their heads." I winced under
the rebuke, but accepted it, as became our relative
ages. None the less did I bear in my secret breast
that Arab-like love for horses and their belongings
which marks the predestined son of the Waste here
as duly as in Yemen or the Nejd.

How I longed for the day when I should have a
station of my own, when I should have blood mares,
colts and fillies, perhaps a horse in training, with
all the gorgeous adjuncts of stud - proprietorship !
The time came — the horses too — many a deeply
joyous hour, many a thrill of hope and fear, many a
wild ride and daring deed was mine

Ere nerve and sinew began to fail
In the consulship of Plancus.

And now the time has passed. The good horses
have trotted, and cantered, and galloped away from
out my life ; most of them from this fair earth
altogether. Yet still, memory clings with curious
fidelity to the equine friends of the good old time,
indissolubly connected as they were with more
important personages and events.

Among the earliest blood sires that the dis-
trict around Melbourne boasted were " Clifton " and
"Traveller" — both New South Wales bred horses, and
destined to spend their last years in the same stud.
Of this pair of thoroughbreds, Clifton, a son of
Skeleton and Spaewife, both imported, was bred by
the late Mr. Charles Smith, and named Clifton after
his stud farm near Sydney. " Skeleton," a grey horse
of high lineage, own brother to " Drone," and the
property of the Marquis of Sligo, was imported by

214 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

the late Mr. William Edward Riley, of Raby, New
South Wales. To him many of the best strains of
the present day trace their ancestry. " Clifton,"
a lengthy bay horse, possessing size, speed, and
substance, was purchased by Mr. Lyon Campbell,
one of the earlier Melbourne magnates, formerly in
the army, and by him kept at Campbellfield, on the
Yarra, near the Upper Falls. His stock, of which
we possessed several, were speedy and upstanding,
great jumpers, and as a family the best tempered
horses I ever saw. This descended to the second
generation. You could " rope," as was the unfair
custom of the day, any " Clifton " colt or filly, back
them in three days, and within a week ride a journey
or do ordinary station work with them. They were
free and handy almost at once, and remained so,
no matter how long a spell they were treated to after-
wards. " Red Deer," with which Mr. Sam Waldock
won the Jockeys' Handicap and the All-aged Stakes
at Sandhurst, was a Clifton, bred by me. " Jupiter,"
the winner of the All-aged Stakes in Melbourne in very
good company, in 1854 or thereabouts, was another,
bred by Mr. James Irvine. His first purchaser put
the tackle on him at Dunmore and rode him atvay
the same day. He was never a whit the worse hack
or racehorse for the abrupt handling. My old
Clifton mare, " Cynthia," was ridden barebacked with
a halter once, after nearly a year's spell. She was
only five years old at the time. Observation of
these and other traits confirmed mc in the opinion,
which I have long held, that the method of breaking
has little to do with a horse's paces, and less with
his temper or general character. Bonus cqitus

xxi TALES OF A "TRAVELLER" 215

" nascitur, non fit" as is the poet. You can no more
imbue the former with desirable dispositions by
force of education, even the most careful, than the
schools can turn out Tennysons and Brownings by
completest tuition.

" Traveller " was another " Sydney-side " celebrity,
bred by the late Mr. Charles Roberts — if I mistake
not, a turf antagonist of Mr. C. Smith. He was a
very grand horse. " The sort we don't see now, sir,"
as the veteran turfite is so fond of saying. A son
of " Bay Camerton," his ancestry ran back, through
colonial thoroughbreds, to the Sheik Arab. Not
more than fifteen hands in height, a beautiful dark
chestnut in colour, he was a model of strength,
speed, and symmetry. His shapes inclined more to
the Arab type than to the long-striding, galloping
machine into which the modern thoroughbred horse
has been developed. Standing firmly on shortish,
clean, iron-like legs, which years upon years of racing
(in the days of heats too) had never deteriorated, he
was a weight-carrier with the speed of a deer — a big-
jawed Arab head, a well -shaped, high -crested neck,
oblique shoulders, just room enough between them and
a strong loin for a saddle, a back rib like a cask, high
croup, muscular thighs, and broad, well-bent hocks.
Everything that could be wished for as a progenitor
of hacks, racers, and harness horses. His one defect
was moral rather than physical. I shall allude to it
in its place. His legs were simply wonderful. At
twenty years old — about which time he died suddenly,
never having suffered an hour's illness or shown the
slightest sign of natural decay — they were as beauti-
fully clean and sound as those of an unbroken three-

216 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

year-old. He had run and won many a race, beginning
as early as 1835, when he competed with Mr. C.
Smith's Chester — a half-brother, by the way — on the
old Botany Road racecourse, near Sydney. I, with
other schoolboys, attended this meeting, and have a
clear remembrance of the depth of the sand through
which the cracks of the day — Whisker, Lady Godiva,
Lady Emily, and others — had to struggle for the
deciding heat.

He was the property of Mr. Hugh Jamieson, of
Tallarook, Goulburn River, as far back as 1841 or
1842. That gentleman, one of the originators of
the Port Phillip Turf Club, temporarily relinquished
breeding, and Traveller passed into the hands of
a discriminating and enthusiastic proprietor, Mr.
Charles Macknight, late of Dunmore, and by him
was employed in the foundation of the celebrated
Dunmore stud.

When I referred to the moral defect of" Traveller "
— a horse that deservesto be bracketed with "Jorrocks"
in the equine chronicles of Australia — my meaning
had reference to the temper which he communicated
to his immediate, and, doubtless, by the unvarying
laws of heredity, to his remoter descendants.

This was as bad as bad could be, chiefly expressed
in one particular direction — the crowning character-
istic vice of Australian horses — that of buck-jumping.
Curiously, the old horse was quiet and well conducted
himself, though there was a legend of his having
killed a man on the Sydney racecourse by a kick.
However that might be, he was apparently of a serene
and generous nature.

So was his first foal born at Dunmore. " St.

xxi TALES OF A "TRAVELLER" 217

George " was the offspring of" Die Vernon " by " Peter
Fin," well known afterwards as a hunter, when owned
by Alick Cuningham and James Murphy. " St.
George," from circumstances, was a couple of years
older than the first crop of Traveller foals, and, having
been made a pet of by Mr. Macknight, was very
quiet when broken in by that gentleman personally,
a fine rough-rider and philosophical trainer as he
was, a combination not often reached. Hence, from
" St. George's " docility, great expectations were
entertained of the temper of the " Traveller " stock.

" All depends upon the breaking," says the
young and ardent, but chiefly inexperienced, horse-
lover.

" Not so ! The leading qualities of horse and
man are strongly hereditary. Education modifies,
but removes not, the inherited tendency — sometimes
hardly even modifies."

So, whether "Traveller's" dam had an ineradicable
taste for " propping," or was cantankerous otherwise,
disencumbering herself, on occasion, of saddle, rider,
and such trifles, or whether he himself, in early
youth, used to send the stable-boys flying ever and
anon, I have no means of knowing. Nothing can
be surer, however, than this fact, that most of the
Traveller colts and fillies at Dunmore and surround-
ing stations displayed an indisposition to be broken
in little short of insanity.

When ridden for the first time they fought and
struggled, bucked and kicked, fell down, got up,
and went at it again with unabated fury. Tamed by
hard work and perseverance, when they were turned
out for a little rest, they were nearly as bad, if taken

218 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

up again, as at the first onset. When apparently
quietened, they would set to work with a stranger as
though he were some new species of pre-Adamite
man. All sorts of grooms were tried, dare-devils who
could ride anything, steady ones who mouthed care-
fully and gave plenty of exercise and preparation.
It was all the same in result. They were hard to
break in, hard to ride when they were broken in, and
sometimes hardest of all in the intervals of station
work. Of course there were exceptions. But they
were few. And a stranger who was offered a fresh
horse at a station in the neighbourhood was apt to
ask if he was a " Traveller " ; and if answered in the
affirmative, to look askance and inquire when he had
been ridden last, and whether he had then " done any-
thing," before committing himself to his tender mercies.
It was the more provoking because in all other
respects the family character was unassailable. They
were handsome and level of shape, iron-legged, full
of courage and staying power, well-paced, and in
some instances very fast — notably Tramp, Trackdeer,
St. George, No Ma, Triton, The Buckley colt, and
many others. Triton won the Three-year-old Stakes
at Port Fairy against a good field, and the Geelong
Steeplechase the year after, running up and winning
on the post after a bad fall, and with his rider's
collar-bone broken. The offspring of particular
mares were observed to be better tempered than
others. Triton's dam, Katinka, was a Clifton, and
he was in the main good-humoured; though I re-
member him throwing his boy just before a race.
The "Die Vcrnons" were mostly like their mother, free
and liberal-minded ; but many of the others — I may

xxi TALES OF A " TRAVELLER" 219

say most of them — were " regular tigers," requiring
the horsemen who essayed to ride them habitually
to be young, valiant, in hard training, and up to all
the tricks of the rough -riding trade. That they
seldom commended themselves to elderly gentlemen
may easily be believed. Even here was the exception.
The late Mr. Gray, Crown Lands Commissioner for
the Western District, when on his rounds, took a
fancy to a fine bay colt, just broken in, and bought
him. He, however, caused a young police trooper
to ride him provisionally, and for many a month he
went about under one or other of the orderlies. I
never observed the portly person of the Commissioner
upon the bay colt. He eventually disposed of him
untried for that service.

Four colts in one year went to " that bourne from
which no ' Traveller ' returns " — (James Irvine's joke,
all rights reserved). One filly threw her rider on the
run, galloped home, and broke her neck over the
horse paddock fence, which she was too tete exaltee to
remark. One reared up and fell over ; never rose.
One broke his back, after chasing every one out of
the yard, in trying to get under an impossible rail.
And one beautiful cob (mine) fractured his spinal
vertebrae in dashing at the gate like a wild bull.

The history of this steed, and of others which I
have observed more recently, has most fully satisfied
me of the hereditary transmission of qualities in
horse-breeding, and nothing, therefore, will convince
me to the contrary. I was then in a position to try
the experiment personally, as well as to see it tried.

For, observe the conditions. The proprietors of
Dunmore were young, highly intelligent persons, with

220 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

a turn for scientific research ; good horsemen, all
fond of that branch of stock-breeding. The run
being of choice quality was comparatively small in
extent. The stock were kept in paddocks for part
of the year. The grooms were good, and always
under strict supervision. The young horses were
stabled and well fed during breaking, brushed and
curry-combed daily. They were used after the cattle
when partly broken — an excellent mode of com-
pleting a horse's education. And yet the result
was, as I have described, unsatisfactory. The
majority of the young horses turned out of this
model establishment were with great difficulty broken
to saddle, and even then were troublesome and unsafe.
How can this condition of affairs be accounted for,
except upon the hypothesis that in animals, as in the
human subject, certain inherited tendencies are re-
produced with such strange similarity to those of
immediate or remote ancestors as to be incapable
of eradication, and well-nigh of modification, by
training ?

I may state here that I should not have entered
so freely into the subject had the Dunmore stud, as
such, been still in existence. Such is not the case.
Two of the three proprietors, once high in hope and
full of well-grounded anticipations of success in their
colonial career, are in their graves. Dunmore, so
replete with pleasant memories, has long been sold.
The stud is dispersed. My old friend James Irvine,
though still in the flesh and prospering, as he deserves,
has only an indirect interest in the memory of
" Traveller," whose qualities during life he would
never have suffered to be thus aspersed. The

xxi TALES OF A "TRAVELLER" 221

" Traveller temper," still doubtless existent in various
high-bred individuals, is perchance wearing out.
After all, this equine exhumation is but the history of
the formation of an opinion. It may serve a purpose,
however, if it leads to the resolution in the minds of
intending stud-masters, " never to breed from a sire
of bad-tempered stock."

CHAPTER XXII

YAMBUK

ONCE upon a time, in a " kingdom by the sea,"
known to men as Port Fairy, " Yambuk " was a choice
and precious exemplar of the old-fashioned cattle
station. What a haven of peace — what a restful
elysium, would it be in these degenerate days of
hurry and pressure and progress, and all that —
could one but fall upon it ! If one could only gallop
up now to that garden gate, receive the old cordial
welcome, and turn his horse into the paddock, what
a fontaine de jouvence would bubble up ! Should one
ride forth and essay the deed? It could hardly
be managed. We should not be able to find our
way. There would be roads and fences, with
obtrusive shingled cottages, and wheat -fields, barns,
and threshing machines — in short, all the hostile
emblems of agricultural settlement, as it is called.

I like it not ; I would the plain
Lay in its tall old groves again.

Fronting the farther side of the Shaw River,
down to a bank of which the garden sloped, were

chap, xxn YAMBUK 223

broad limestone flats, upon which rose clumps of
the beautiful blackwood or hickory tree, some of
Australia's noblest growth, when old and um-
brageous.

The bungalow, low-roofed, verandah-protected, was
thatched at the early period which I recall, the rafters
the strongest of the slender ti-tree saplings in the
brush which bordered the river-side. The mansion
was not imposing, but what of that ? The rooms
were of fair size, the hospitality refined, spontaneous,
and pervading every look and tone ; and we, who in
old days were wont to share it on our journeys to
and from the metropolis of the district, would not
have exchanged it for a palace.

People were not so ambitious then as of late
years. Nor was the transcendent future of stock-
holding visible to the mental eye, when companies
and syndicates would compete for the possession of
mammoth holdings, with more sheep and cattle de-
pasturing thereon than we then believed the whole
colony could carry.

No ! a man with a thousand head of well-bred
cattle, on a run capable of holding half as many
more, so as to leave a reserve in case of bush-fires
and bad seasons, was thought fairly endowed with
this world's goods. If prudent, he was able to afford
himself a trip to Melbourne twice a year or so, and
to save money in reason. He generally kept a few
brood mares, and so was enabled to rear a superior
hackney for himself or friend. As it was not the
custom to keep more than a stock-rider, and one other
man for general purposes, he had a reasonable share
of daily work cut out for himself.

224 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

" Yambuk " was then an extremely picturesque
station, combining within its limits unusual variety
of soil and scenery, land and water. The larger graz-
ing portion consisted of open undulating limestone
ridges, which ran parallel with the sea-beach. The
River Shaw, deepening as it debouched on the ocean,
was the south-eastern boundary of the run. All the
country for some miles up its course, past the village
of Orford, then only known as The Crossing Place,
and along the coast-line towards Portland Bay, was
originally within the bounds of the " Yambuk " run.

Between the limestone ridges and the sea were
sand-hills, thickly covered with the forest oak, which,
growing almost to the beach, braved the stern sea
blasts. Very sound and well sheltered were they,
affording advantageous quarters to the herd in the
long winters of the West.

When our dreamy summer-time was o'er, a truly
Arcadian season, with " blue and golden days " and
purple-shadowed eves, wild wrathful gales hurtled
over the ocean waste, rioting southward to the Pole.
Mustering in stormy weather was a special experience.
Gathering amid the sea-woods, the winter's day darken-
ing fast, a drove of heavy bullocks, perhaps, lumbering
over the sands before us, amid the flying spume, their
hoofs in the surf ever and anon, — it was a season
study, worth riding many a mile to see. No cove
or bay restrained the angry waters. A misty cloud-
rack formed the horizon, to which stretched the
boundless ocean -plain of the Pacific, while giant
billows, rank on rank, foamed fiercely landward, to
meet in wrath and impotcntly rage on the lonely
shore below us.

xxn YAMBUK 225

How often has that picture been recalled to me
in later years amid the arid plains of Australia
Deserta ! The sad-toned, far-stretching shore — the
angry storm -voices of the terrible deep — the little
band of horsemen — the lowing, half-wild drove —
the red-litten cloud prison, wherein the sun lay
dying !

Pleasant exceedingly, in contrast, when the cattle
were yarded and rails securely pegged, to unsaddle
and walk into the house, where lights and glowing
fires, with a well-appointed table, awaited us, presided
over by a Chatelaine whose soft voice and ever-
varied converse, mirthful or mournful, serious or
satirical, practical or poetic, never failed to soothe
and interest.

Stock-riding in those days, half real business,
half sport, as we youngsters held it to be, was
certainly not one of those games into which, as
Lindsay Gordon sings — " No harm could possibly
find its way."

Part of the " Yambuk " run was distinctly
dangerous riding. Where the wombats dug their
treacherous shafts and galleries, how many a good
steed and horseman have I seen o'erthrown ! These
peculiar night-feeding animals, akin to the badger of
the old country, burrowed much among the coast
hummocks. Their open shafts, though not particularly
nice to ride among at speed, with your horse's head
close behind the hard-pressed steer, were trifling draw-
backs compared to the horizontal " drives " into
which, when mined too near the surface, your horse's
feet often broke. The solid turf would disappear,
and letting your horse into a concealed pitfall up to

Q

226 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

the shoulder, gave a shock that often told tales in a
strained joint or a broken collar - bone. We fell
lightly in those days, however, and, even when our
nags rolled over us, scorned to complain of the trifling
occurrence.

The limestone country, too,held cavities and sudden
appearing fissures of alarming depth, which caused
the fiery steed to tremble and the ardent rider to
pale temporarily when suddenly confronted. At the
south-eastern boundary of the run the forests were
dense, the marshes deeper, the country generally
more difficult, than on the coast-line. The ruder
portion of the herd " made out " that way, and many
a hard gallop they cost us at muster-time.

The run had been " taken up " for and on account
of Captain Baxter, formerly of Her Majesty's 50th
Regiment, about a year before my time, that is in
1843, by Mr. George Dumoulin, acting as overseer.
This gentleman, a son of one of the early Imperial
officials, and presumably of Huguenot descent, was
a most amusing and energetic person. Inheriting
the legerete of his Gallic ancestors, his disposition led
him to be toujours gat, even under the most unpro-
mising circumstances. A capital manager, in the
restricted sense then most appreciated, he spent no
money, save on the barest necessaries, and did all the
stock-keeping himself, with the occasional aid of a
black boy. When I first set eyes on Yambuk
station there were but two small thatched huts, no
garden, no horse -paddock, and a very indifferent
stock-yard. The rations had run out lately — there
was no salt, for one thing — and as the establishment
had then been living upon fresh veal for a fortnight,

xxn YAM B UK 227

it was impressed upon me, forcibly, that no one
here would look at fillets or cutlets of that " delicate
meat that the soul loveth," under ordinary culinary
conditions, for at least a year afterwards.

Mr. Dumoulin, though wonderfully cheery as a
general rule, was subject to occasional fits of de-
spondency. They were dark, in proportion to his
generally high standard of spirits. When this
lowered tone set in, he generally alluded to his want
of success hitherto in life, the improbability of his
attaining to a station of his own, the easiest thing in
those days if you had a very little money or stock.
But capital being scarce and credit wanting for the
use of enterprising speculators who had nothing but
pluck and experience, it was hard, mostly impossible,
to procure that necessary fulcrum. Regarding those
things, and mourning over past disappointments, he
generally wound up by affirming that " all the world
would come right, but that poor Dumoulin would be
left on his — beam ends — at the last." And yet
what splendid opportunities lay in the womb of Time
for him, for all of us ! So when Captain Baxter and
his wife came from their New England home to take
possession and live at Yambuk " for good," there
was no necessity for Mr. Dumoulin to abide there
longer, the profits of a station of that size rarely per-
mitting the proprietor and overseer to jointly ad-
minister. When the gold came we heard of him in
a position of responsibility and high pay, but whether
he rose to his proper status, or malignant destiny
refused promotion, we have no knowledge. He was
a good specimen of the pioneers to whom Australia
owes so much — brave to recklessness, patient of toil,

228 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

hardy, and full of endurance — a good bushman and
first-class stock-rider.

The captain and Mrs. Baxter drove tandem over-
land the whole distance from New England to
Yambuk, some hundreds of miles, encamping regu-
larly with a few favourite horses and dogs. Their
journal, faithfully kept, of each day's progress and the
road events was a most interesting one, and would
show that even before the days of Miss Bird and
Miss Gordon-Cumming there were lady travellers who
dared the perils of the wilderness and its wilder
denizens. A fine horsewoman, passionately fond
of her dumb favourites, Mrs. Baxter was as happy
in the company of her nice old roan Arab " Kaffir,"
the beautiful greyhound " Ada," and the collie
" Rogue," as more exigeantes, though not more gently
nurtured dames, would have been with all the
materials of a society picnic.

One advantage of this sort of overland-route
work is that when the goal is reached the humblest
surroundings suffice for a home, all luxury and
privilege being comprehended in the idea that you
have not to move on next day.

Once arrived, the abode en permanence is the
great matter for thankfulness. The building may
be unfinished and inadequate, not boasting even of
a chimney, yet rugs are spread as by Moslems in
a caravanserai, and all thank Allah fervently in
that we are permitted to stay and abide there
indefinitely.

With the arrival of the master and mistress
speedy alteration for the better took place. The
cottage was built — an Indian bungalow in archi-

xxn YAMBUK 229

tecture — with wooden walls, the roof and verandahs
thatched with the long tussock grass. A garden
with fruit trees and flowers was planted, the fertile
chocolate-coloured loam responding eagerly. Furni-
ture arrived, including a piano and other lady adjuncts.
A detached kitchen was constructed. Mr. Dumoulin's
" improvements " were abandoned to the stock-rider,
and the new era of " Yambuk " was inaugurated.
Far pleasanter in every way, to my mind, than any
which have succeeded it. The locale certainly had
many advantages. It was only twelve miles from
that fascinatingly pleasant little country town of
Port Fairy — we didn't call it Belfast then, and
didn't want to. The road was good, and admitted
of riding in and out the same day. As it was a
seaport town, stores were cheap, and everything
needful could be procured from Sydney or Melbourne.
There was then not an acre of land sold, west of the
Shaw, before you reached Portland, and very little to
the east, except immediately around the town. One
cannot imagine a more perfect country residence,
having regard to the period, and the necessities of
the early squatting community. The climate was
delightful. Modified Tasmanian weather prevailed,
nearly as cold in winter, quite sufficiently bracing,
but without frost, the proximity to the coast so
providing. English fruits grew and bore splendidly.
Finer apples and pears, gooseberries and cherries, no
rejoicing schoolboy ever revelled in. The summers
were surpassingly lovely, cooled with the breezes
that swept over the long rollers of the Pacific, and
lulled the sleeper to rest with the measured roll of
the surge upon the broad beaches which stretched

230 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

from the Moyne to Portland Bay. Talking of
beaches, what a glorious sensation is that of riding
over one at midnight !

Ah I well do I remember
That loved and lonely hour

when a party of us started one moonlight night to
ride from Port Fairy to Portland (fifty miles) for the
purpose of boarding an emigrant vessel, from which
we hoped to be able to hire men-servants and maid-
servants, then, as now, exceeding scarce. My grand
little horse " Hope " had carried me from home,
thirty miles, that day, but, fed and rested, he was
not particular about a few miles farther. We dined
merrily, and at something before ten o'clock set
forth. Lloyd Rutledge, who was my companion,
rode his well-known black hackney and plater,
" Molonglo Jack." As we started at a canter along
the Portland road — the low moon nearly full, and just
rising, the sky cloudless — it was an Arabian Night,one
for romance and adventure. The other horses had
been in their stalls all day, but as I touched my lower
bridle rein my gallant little steed — one of the most
awful pullers that ever funked a Christian — rose on
his hind legs and made as though about to jump on
to the adjoining houses. This was only a trick I had
taught him ; at a sign he would rear and plunge
" like all possessed," but it showed that he was keen
for business, and I did not fear trying conclusions
with the best horse there. Like Mr. Sawyer's Jack-
a-dandy, he would have won the Derby if it had
not been more than half a mile. He did win the
Port Fairy Steeplechase next year, over stiff timber,

xxn YAM B UK 231

with Johnny Gorrie on his back, and in good com-
pany too.

Away we went. The sands were some miles past
Yambuk. When we rode down upon them, what
wonders lay before us ! The tide was out. For
leagues upon leagues stretched the ocean shore — a
milk-white beach, wide as a parade-ground, level
as a tennis-court, and so hard under foot that our
horses' hoofs rang sharp and clear. Excited by the
night, the moon, the novelty, they tore at their bits
and raced one another in a succession of heats,
which it took all our skill, aided by effective
double bridles of the Weymouth pattern, to moderate.
As for our companions, they were left miles behind.

We were at the turn, just abreast of " Lady Julia
Percy Island," which lay on the slumbering ocean's
breast like some cloud fallen from the sky, or an
enchanted isle, where the fairy princess might be
imprisoned until the Viking's galley arrived, or the
prince was conveniently cast away on the adjacent
rocks.

Far as eye could see shone the illimitable ocean,
" still as a slave before his lord," star-brightened here
and there. Southward a lengthening silver pathway
rippled in the moon-gleam, shimmering and glowing
far away towards the soft cloudland of the horizon.
Tiny capes ran in from the forest border, and barred
the line of vision from time to time. Sweeping
around these, our excited horses speeding as they
had become winged, we entered upon a fresh bay,
another milk-white beach, fitted for fairy revels.
While over all the broad and yellow moon shed
a flood of radiance in which each twig and leaf of the

232 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES chap.

forest fringe was visible. So still was the night
that even " the small ripple spilt upon the beach" fell
distinctly upon the ear.

As the pale dawn cloud rose in the east, the
slumbering ocean began to stir and moan. A land
breeze came sighing forth from the dense forest like
a reproachful dryad as we charged the steep side of
Lookout Hill, and saw the roofs of Portland town
before us. It was a longish stage — fifty miles —
but our horses still pressed gaily forward as if the
distance had been passed in a dream. We had no
time to sentimentalise. Labour was scarce. We
stabled our good steeds, and transferred ourselves to
a waterman's boat. When the employers of Portland
came on board in leisurely fashion some hours later,
the flower of the farm labourers were under written
agreement to proceed to Port Fairy. It rather
opened the eyes of the Portlanders, whom, in the
sauciness of youth, we of the rival township who
called William Rutledge our mercantile chief were
wont to hold cheap. They needed servants for farm
and station, as did we, but there was no help for it ;
they had to content themselves with what were left.

Personally, I had done well. The brothers
Michael and Patrick Horan — two fine upstanding
Carlow men as one would wish to see — were inden-
tured safely to me for a year. They served me well
in the after-time. Their brother-in-law, with his wife,
as a " married couple," and a smart " colleen " about
sixteen, a younger sister, came with them. It was
a " large order," but all our hands had cleared for
Ballarat and Forest Creek ; we had hardly a soul
in the place but the overseer and myself. These

xxn YAMBUK 233

immigrants were exactly of the class we wanted.
I know a place where a few such shiploads would
be of great and signal utility now. They were
willing, well-behaved, and teachable. I broke in
Pat Horan to the stock-riding business, and within
a twelvemonth he could ride a buck-jumper, rope,
brand, and draft with any old hand in the district.
He repeatedly took cattle to market in sole charge,
and was always efficient and trustworthy. Mick
showed a gift for ploughing and bullock-driving, and
generally preferred farming. They both remained
with me for years — Pat, indeed, till the station was
sold. They are thriving farmers, I believe, within a
few miles of Squattlesea Mere, at this present day.
I waited until nightfall, making arrangements to
receive our engages when they should arrive in Port
Fairy, and then mounted " Hope," in order to ride
the thirty miles which lay between me and home.
The old horse was as fresh as paint, and landed me
there well on the hither side of midnight. One feels
inclined to say there are no such horses nowadays,
but there is a trifling difference in the rider's " form,"
I fancy, which accounts for much of this apparent
equine degeneracy. Anyhow, Hope was a " plum,"
and so was his mother before him. Didn't she give
me a fall over a fence at Yambuk one day, laming me
for a week and otherwise knocking me about — the
only time I ever knew her make a mistake ? But
wasn't a lady looking on, and wouldn't I have broken
my neck cheerfully, or any other important vertebra,
for the sake of being pitied and petted after the
event ?

When the gold discovery, and the consequent

234 OLD MELBOURNE MEMO RLE S chap, xxii

rise in prices, took place, Captain Baxter was tempted
to sell Yambuk with a good herd of cattle, and so
departed for the metropolis. Our society began to
break up — its foundations to loosen. People got so
rich that they voted station life a bore, and pro-
moted their stock-riders to be overseers in charge.
Many of these were worthy people. But the charm
of bush life had departed when the proprietor no
longer greeted you on dismounting, when there was
no question of books or music or cheery talk with
which to while away the evening. And thinking
over those pleasant homes in the dear old forest
days, where one was always sure of sympathy and
society, I know one wayworn pilgrim who will
ever in fancy recur to the bon vieux temps whereof a
goodly proportion — sometimes for one reason, some-
times for another — was passed at Yambuk.

POEMS

BALLAARAT

A VISION OF GOLD

I SEE a lone stream, rolling down
Through valleys green, by ranges brown

Of hills that bear no name,
The dawn's full blush in crimson flakes
Is traced on palest blue, as breaks

The morn in Orient flame.

I see — whence comes that eager gaze ?
Why rein the steed, in wild amaze ?

The water's hue is gold !
Golden its wavelets foam and glide,
Through tenderest green to ocean-tide

The fairy streamlet rolled.

" Forward, ' Hope ! ' forward ! truest steed,
Of tireless hoof and desert speed,

Up the weird water bound,
Till, echoing far and sounding deep,
I hear old Ocean's hoarse voice sweep

O'er this enchanted ground ? "

238 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES

The sea ! — wild fancy ! Many a mile
Of changeful Nature's frown and smile

Ere stand we on the shore.
And, yet ! that murmur, hoarse and deep,
None save the ocean-surges keep ?

It is — " the cradles' roar ! "

Onward ! we pass the grassy hill,
Around the base the waters still

Shimmer in golden foam ;
O wanderer of the voiceless wild,
Of this far southern land the child,

How changed thy quiet home !

For, close as bees in countless hive,
Like emmet hosts that earnest strive,

Swarmed, toiled, a vast, strange crowd :
Haggard each worker's features seem,
Bright, fever-bright, each eye's wild gleam,

Nor cry, nor accent loud.

But each man dug, or rocked, or bore,
As if salvation with the ore

Of the mine-monarch lay.
Gold strung each arm to giant might,
Gold flashed before each aching sight,

Gold turned the night to day.

Where Eblis reigns o'er boundless gloom,
And, in his halls of endless doom

Lost souls for ever roam,
They wander (says the Eastern tale),
Nor ever startles moan or wail

Despair's eternal home.

BALLAARAT 239

Less silent scarce than that pale host
These toiled, as if each moment lost

Were the red life-drop spilt ;
While, heavy, rough, and darkly bright,
In every shape, rolled to the light

Man's hope, and pride, and guilt.

All ranks, all ages ! Every land
Had sent its conscripts forth, to stand

In the gold-seekers' rank :
The stalwart bushman's sinewy limb,
The pale-faced son of trade — e'en him

Who knew the fetters' clank.

'Tis night : her jewelled mantle fills
The busy valley, the dun hills,

'Tis a battle host's repose !
A thousand watch-fires redly gleam,
While ceaseless fusillades would seem

To warn approaching foes.

The night is older. On the sward
Stretched, I behold the heavens broad,

When — a Shape rises dim,
Then, clearer, fuller, I descry,
By the swart brow, the star-bright eye,

The Gnome-king's presence grim !

He stands upon a time-worn block ;
His dark form shades the snowy rock

As cypress marble tomb :
Nor fierce yet wild and sad his mien,
His cloud-black tresses wave and stream,

His deep tones break the gloom.

240 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES

" Son of a tribe accursed, of those
Whose greed has broken our repose

Of the long ages dead,
Think ye, for nought our ancient race
Leaves olden haunts, the sacred place
Of toils for ever fled ?

" List while I tell of days to come,
When men shall wish the hammers dumb

That ring so ceaseless now ;
That every arm were palsy-tied,
Nor ever wet on grey hillside
Was the gold-seeker's brow.

" I see the old world's human tide
Set southward on the ocean wide.

I see a wood of masts,
While crime or want, disease or death,
With each sigh of the north-wind's breath,

He on this fair shore casts.

" I see the murderer's barrel gleam,
I hear the victim's hopeless scream

Ring through these crimeless wastes ;
While each base son of elder lands
Each witless dastard, in vast bands
To the gold-city hastes.

" Disease shall claim her ready toll,
Flushed vice and brutal crime the dole

Of life shall ne'er deny ;
Danger and death shall stalk your streets,
While staggering idiocy greets

The horror-stricken eye !

BALLAARAT 241

" All men shall roll in the gold mire —
The height, the depth of man's desire —

Till come the famine years ;
Then all the land shall curse the day
When first they rifled the dull clay,

With deep remorseful tears.

" Fell want shall wake to fearful life
The fettered demons. Civil strife

Rears high a gory hand !
I see a blood-splashed barricade,
While dimly lights the twilight glade

The soldier's flashing brand.

" But thou, son of the forest free !
Thou art not, wert not foe to me,

Frank tamer of the wild !
Thou hast not sought the sunless home
Where darkly delves the toiling Gnome,
The mid-earth's swarthy child.

" Then, be thou ever, as of yore,
A dweller in the woods, and o'er

Fresh plains thy herds shall roam.
Join not the vain and reckless crowd
Who swell the city's pageant proud,

But prize thy forest home."

He said : and, with an eldritch scream,
The Gnome-king vanished — and my dream :

Dawn's waking hour returned ;
Yet still the wild tones echoed clear,
For many a day in reason's ear,

And my heart inly burned.
R

THE DEATH OF WELFORD J

OUT by the far west-waters,

On the sea-land of the South,
Untombed the bones of a white man lay,
Slowly crumbling to kindred clay —

Sad prayer from Death's mute mouth !

Alone, far from his people,

The sun of his life went down.
A cry for help ? No time — not a prayer :
As red blood splashed thro' riven hair,

His soul rose to Heaven's throne.

Ah ! well for those felon hands

Which the strong man foully slew,
The cry from the Cross when our Saviour died
" Father, forgive " — as they pierced His side —
" For they know not what they do."

They have souls, say the teachers

Hereafter, the same as we :
If so, it is hid from human grace
By blood-writ crimes of savage race

So deep, that we cannot sec.

1 A young Englishman, "killed by blacks on the Barcoo."

THE DEATH OF WELFORD 243

Fear than love is far stronger :

The cruel have seldom to rue :
The neck is bowed 'neath the heavy heel,
Love's covenant with Death they seal ;

" For they know not what they do."

This Dead, by the far sun-down,

This man whom they idly slew,
Was lover and friend to those who had slain
With him all human love, like Cain ;

But " they know not what they do."

'Twixt laws Divine and human

To judge, if we only knew,
When the blood is hot, to part wrong from right,
When to forgive and when to smite

Foes who " know not what they do."

The wronger and wronged shall meet

For judgment, to die, or live ;
And the heathen shall cry, in anguish fell,
At sight of the Bottomless Pit of Hell —

" We knew not, O Lord ! Forgive."

SUNSET IN THE SOUTH

It is Autumn, it is sunset, magic shower of tint and hue;
All the west is hung with banners, white with golden,

crimson, blue ;
Drooping folds ! far floating, mingling, falling on the

river's face ;
Upturned, placid, silver-mirrored, gazing into endless

space.

Faint the breath of eve, low-sighing for bright

summer's fading charms ;
Woodland cries are echoing, chiming with the sounds

from distant farms ;
And the stubble fires are gleaming red athwart

the wood's deep shade,
While the marsh mist, slowly rising, shrouds the

greenery of the glade.

Redly still the day is dying, as if o'er the desert waste,
And we pictured camels, Arabs, and the solemn outline

traced
Of a pillared lonely Fane, clear against the crimson

rim,
Voiceless, but of empire telling, and the lore of ages

dim.

SUNSET IN THE SOUTH 245

Low the deep voice of the ocean, whispering to the
silent strand ;

Gleam the stars, in silver ripples ; stretches broad the
milk-white sand ;

And a long, low bark is lying underneath the island
shore

Weird and dream -like, darksome, soundless, spell-
struck now, and evermore.

Deeper, darker fall the shadows, and the charmed

colours wane,
Fading, as the fay-gold changes into earth and dross

again,
Wildfowl stream in swaying files landward to the

marshy plain ;
Louder sound the forest voices and the deep tones

of the main.

"BALACLAVA"

The word is " Charge," the meaning " Death,"

Yet, welcome falls the sound
On every ear in the listening host,
Whose pennons flutter, zephyr-tossed,

That messenger around.

Among them Nolan reins a steed

Frost-white with gathered foam,
And pale and stern points to the foe,
In heavy mass, receding slow —

" Charge, comrades, charge them home 1 "

There rides one with fearless brow,

By time and sorrow scarred.
For him life knows no tale untold,
But empty names, love, hope, and gold, - •

Cool player of Fate's last card !

Beside him, he whose golden youth

Is in its pride and bloom.
His thoughts are with a dear old home.
Its loved ones, and that other one,

And will she mourn his doom ?

"BALACLAVA" 247

Another knows of a sweet fond face

That will fade into ashy pale
As she hears the tale of that day of tears ;
And a prayer rises to Him who hears

The widow and orphan's wail.

" We die," passed through each warrior's heart,

" And vainly, but the care
Rests not with us ; 'tis ours to show
The world, old England, and the foe,

What Englishmen can dare."

Then bridle-reins are gathered up,

And sabres blaze on high,
And as each charger bounds away
Doubts flee like ghosts at opening day,

And each man joys to die.

St. George ! it is a glorious sight

A splendid page of war,
To mark yon gorgeous, matchless troop,
Like some bright falcon, wildly swoop

On the sullen prey before.

Captain Martinet {loquitur).

" Hurrah for the hearts of Englishmen,
And the thoroughbred's long stride,
As the vibrating, turf-tearing hoof-thunder rolled,
'Twas worth a year of one's life, all told,
To have seen our fellows ride ! "

248 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES

But what avails the sabre sweep ?

There rolls the awful sound,
Telling through heart, and limb, and brain,
That the cannon mows its ghastly lane,

And corses strew the ground.

Ha ! Nolan flings his arms apart,

And a death-cry rings in air ;
And see, may Heaven its mercy yield !
His charger from a hopeless field

Doth a dead rider bear.

The gunners lie by their linstocks dead,

While deep on every brow,
In the bloody scroll of our island swords,
Is the tale of each horseman's dying words,
" Our memory is deathless now."

Staggering back goes a broken band,

With standards soiled and torn,
With gory saddles and reeling steeds,
And ranks that are swaying like surging reeds
On a wild autumn morn.

Despair has gazed on many a field

Won by our fearless race ;
And well the night wind, sighing low,
Knows where, with breast broad to the foe,

Is the dead Briton's place.

But never living horsemen rode

So near the eternal marge,
As those who ran the tilt that day
With Death, and bore their lives away

From the Balaclava charge.

THE BUSHMAN'S LULLABY

Lift me down to the creek bank, Jack,

It must be fresher outside ;
The long hot day is well-nigh done ;
It's a chance if I see another one ;
I should like to look on the setting sun,

And the water, cool and wide.

We didn't think it would be like this

Last week, as we rode together ;
True mates we've been in this far land
For many a year, since Devon's strand
We left for these wastes of sun-scorched sand
In the blessed English weather.

We left when the leafy lanes were green

And the trees met overhead,
The rippling brooks ran clear and gay,
The air was sweet with the scent of hay,
How well I remember the very day

And the words my mother said !

We have toiled and striven and fought it out
Under the hard blue sky,

250 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES

Where the plains glowed red in tremulous light,
Where the haunting mirage mocked the sight
Of desperate men from morn till night, —
And the streams had long been dry.

Where we dug for gold on the mountain-side,

Where the ice-fed river ran ;
In frost and blast, through fire and snow,
Where an Englishman could live and go,
We've followed our luck through weal and woe,

And never asked help from man.

And now it's over, it's hard to die

Ere the summer of life is o'er,
When the pulse beats high and the limbs are stark,
Ere time has printed one warning mark,
To quit the light for the unknown dark,

And, O God ! to see home no more !

No more ! no more ! I that always vowed

That, whether or rich or poor,
Whatever the years might bring or change,
I would one day stand by the grey old grange,
And the children would gather, all shy and strange,

As I entered the well-known door.

You will go home to the old place, Jack ;

Then tell my mother for me,
That I thought of the words she used to say,
Her looks, her tones, as I dying lay,
That I prayed to God, as I used to pray

When I knelt beside her knee.

THE B USHMA A"S L ULLA BY 251

By the lonely water they made their couch,

And the southern night fast fled ;
They heard the wildfowl splash and cry,
They heard the mourning reeds' low sigh,
Such was the Bushman's lullaby, —

With the dawn his soul was sped.

MORNING

MORN on the waters ! the glad bird flings
The diamond spray from his glittering wings.
Old ocean lieth in dreamless sleep,
As the slumber of childhood calmly deep,
Light falls the stroke of the fisher's oar,
As he leaves his cot by the shingly shore ;
While the young wife's gaze, half sad, half bright,
Follows the frail bark's flashing flight.

Noon on the waters ! O rustling breeze,

Sweet stealer 'mid old forest trees,

Wilt thou not thy sweet whisper keep

Nigh him who journeys the shadeless deep ?

The wanderer dreams of the shadowy dell,

And the green-turfed, fairy-haunted well,

While the shafts of the noon-king's merciless might

Mingle day with sorrow, and death with light.

Night on the waters ! murmuring hoarse,
The vexed deep threatens the bold bark's course,
The thunder-growl and the tempest moan
Sound like spirits that watch for the dying groan.
The storm-fiend sweeps o'er the starless waste,
And the unchained blasts to the gathering haste ;
Man alone, unshaken, his course retains,
While the elements combat and chaos reigns.

WANTED

A young Lady of twenty-three years of age, as a teacher in
a Ladies' School. Satisfactory references required.—
" Times " Advertisement.

Why should I be twenty-three ?

What are the virtues they can see

Just about to bloom in me

In the magical year of twenty-three ?

Does a maiden, fair and free,

Get prudent just at twenty-three ?

Whatever can the reason be

That they want a girl just twenty-three ?

Dignified matron, whoever you be,
Would not twenty -two do for thee ?
Would twenty-one be shown to the door,
And twenty told to come no more?
Nineteen, perhaps, would hardly be fit,
Eighteen strikes one as rather a chit.
Why must you search o'er land and sea
For the golden age of twenty -three ?

Still the years glide on — for you and for me,
We're nearer, or farther from, twenty-three.

254 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES

Oft, as I sit over my five o'clock tea,

I think, did she get her ? age twenty-three !

When friends are cold and unkind to me,

I think there's a refuge when twenty-three.

On my birthday I'll write, unknown friend, to thee,

Exclaiming, " Here, take me, I'm tiventy-three I "

PERDITA

She is beautiful yet, with her wondrous hair
And eyes that are stormy with fitful light,

The delicate hues of brow and cheek

Are unmarred all, rose-clear and bright ;

That matchless frame yet holds at bay

The crouching bloodhounds, Remorse, Decay.

There is no fear in her great dark eyes —

No hope, no love, no care,
Stately and proud she looks around

With a fierce, defiant stare ;
Wild words deform her reckless speech,
Her laugh has a sadness tears never reach.

Whom should she fear on earth ? Can fate

One direr torment lend
To her few little years of glitter and gloom

With the sad old story to end,
When the spectres of Loneliness, Want, and Pain
Shall arise one night with Death in their train ?

256 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES

I see in a vision a woman like her

Trip down an orchard slope,
With rosy prattlers that shout a name

In tones of rapture and hope ;
While the yeoman, gazing at children and wife,
Thanks God for the pride and joy of his life.

Whose conscience is heavy with this dark guilt ?

Who pays at the final day
For a wasted body, a murdered soul,

And how shall he answer, I say,
For her outlawed years, her early doom,
And despair — despair — beyond the tomb ?

" PRIEZ POUR ELLE"

AN INCIDENT OF THE INDIAN MUTINY

IN the old tower they stand at bay,
Where the Moslem fought of old ;

True to their race, in that sad day
Their lives are dearly sold.

They are but three ; a woman fair,

A boy of fearless brow,
He, whom she vowed to love is there —

God help her ! then and now.

With fiercer leaguer never did
Those rugged stones resound,

As the swarthy yelling masses swayed
The time-worn keep around.

Our death-doomed brothers fired fast,

Our sister loaded well ;
With each rifle-crack a spirit passed ;

By scores the rebels fell.
S

258 OLD MELBOURNE MEMORIES

Though corses choke the narrow way,

Still swarms the demon hive ;
Like a tolling bell each heart will say

" We ne'er go forth alive ! "

Undaunted still — the leaden rain

Slacks not one moment's space —
With a crashing bullet through his brain,

The boy drops on his face !

With outstretched arms, with death-clutched hands,

His mother's darling lies,
No more, till rent the grave's dark bands,

To glad her loving eyes.

Gone the last hope ! faint gleam of light —

Death stalks before their eyes —
While yells and screams of wild delight

From the frenzied crowd arise.

O God of mercy ! can it be ?

It is a hideous dream —
No ! — nearer rolls the human sea,

Arms flash, and eyeballs gleam.

He thinks of her, pale, tender, fair —

To nameless tortures given,
Gore-stained and soiled the bright brown hair —

His very soul is riven.

He lifts the weapon. Did he think

Of a happy summer time —
Of the village meadow — river brink,

Of the merry wedding chime ?

"PRIEZ POUR ELLE" 255

Little he dreamed of this dreary Now,

Or that ever he should stand
With the pistol-muzzle at her brow,

The trigger in his hand !

They kissed — they clung in a last embrace,
They prayed a last deep prayer —

Then proudly she raised her tearful face,
And a corse lay shuddering there !

He stooped, his love's soft eyes to close,
He smoothed the bright brown hair,

Smiled on the crowd of baffled foes,
Then, scattered his brains in air.

THE END

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LITERATURE.

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Westward Ho With a Portrait.

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Poems.

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27

KINGSLEY (C.). — Complete Edition—

continued.

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Good News of God.

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28

COLLECTED WORKS— MEDICINE.

LITERATURE.

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The Heir of Redclyffh.

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The Young Stepmother.

Clever Woman of the Family.

The Three Brides.

My Young Alcides.

The Caged Lion.

The Dove in tub Eagle's Nest.

The Chapi.ft of Pearls.

Lady Hf.ster, and The Danvers Papers.

Magnum Bonum.

Love and Life.

Unknown to History.

Stray Pearls.

The Armourer's Prentices.

The Two Sides of the Shield.

Nuttie's Father.

Scenes and Characters.

Chantry House.

YONGE (C. U.)— continued.
A Modern Telemachus.
Bye Words.

Beechcroft at Rockstone.
Morje Bywords.
A Reputed Changeling.
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P's and Q's : Little Lucy's Wonderful

Globe.
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LOGIC. (.See under Philosophy, p. 32.)

MAGAZINES. (Set Periodicals, p. 31).

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TAVERN1ER (Baron): Travels in India
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TRISTRAM(O-). (See Illustrated Books.)

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WATSON (R. Spence).— A Visit to Wazan,
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YOE (Shway).— The Burman. 2nd Edition.
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48

BOOKS FOR THE YOUNG.

YOUNG, Books for the.
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jESOP— CALDECOTT —Some of >Esop's
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BOOKS FOR THE YOUNG— ZOOLOGY.

49

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Natural History of Eristalis Tenax.

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MEYRICK (E.). — Handbook of British
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MI ALL (L. C). -Natural History of
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SCUDDER (S. H.).— Fossil Insects of
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Ornithology.

COUES (Elliott).— Key to North American
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FOWLER(W. W.). (^Natural History.)

HEADLEY (F. W.).— Structure and Life
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WHITE (Gilbert). (See Natural History.)

WRIGHT(M. O.). (See Natural History.)

INDEX.

PAGE

Abrahams (I.). . . 42
Abbey (E. A.) . . 15,47
Abbot (F.E.) ... 42
Abbott (E. A.) 6, 17, 38, 39, 42
Acton (Lord) . . .11
Adams (Sir F. O.) . . 36
Addison . . 4, 24, 25

JEsop. ... 14, 48
Agassiz (L.) ... 4
Ainger (Rev. A.) 5, 20, 27, 42
Ainslie(A. D.). . . 18
Airy (Sir G. B.) . 3, 34
Aitken (Mary C.) . . 25
Aitken (Sir W.) . . 30
Albemarle (Earl of) . 4
Aldous (J. C. P.) . 40, 41
Aldrich (T. B.) . . 17
Alexander (C. F.) . . 25
Alexander (T.) . 10

Alexander (Bishop) . 42
Allbutt(T. C.) . . 28
Allen (G.) ... 7
Allingham (W.) . . 25
Amiel(H. F.) ... 4
Anderson (A.). . . 17
Anderson (L.). . . 2
Anderson (Dr. McCall) , 28
Andrews (C. M.) . . 11
Andrews (Dr. Thomas) . 33
Appleton (T. G.) . 46

Archer-Hind (R. D.) 46

Arkold(M.) 9, 17, 24, 25, 38, 39
Arnold (Dr. T.) . . n
Arnold (W. T.) . . n
Ashley (W. J.). . 4, 35
Atkinson (G. F.) . . 7
Atkinson (J. B.) . . 2
Atkinson (Rev. J. C.) 2, 48
Attwell(H.). . . 25
Austen (Jane) . . .21
Austin (Alfred) io, 17, 24

Autenrieth (Georg) . Q
Awdry (F.) . . 48

B\con (Francis) . 4. 24, 25
Badenoch (L. N.) . 30, 50
Bailey (L. H.) . . 10
Baines (Rev. E.) . . 42
Baker (SirS. W.)4, 36,37, 47,48

Balch (Elizabeth)
Baldwin (Prof. J. M.)
Balfour (F. M.) .
Balfour (J. B.)
Ball (J.) .
Ball fW. Piatt)
Ball(W.W. R.) .
Ballance (C. A.) .
Barker (G. F.)
Barker (Lady) . 2, g
Barlow (J.)
Barnard (C.) .
Barnes (R. H.)
Barnes (W.) .
Barnett (E. A.)
Barry (A.)
Bartholomew (J. G.)
Bartlett < J.) .
Barwell (R.) .

• 14
> 33

• 7

• 7

■ 47

7

IS, 28

. 28

• 33
47, 48
14, 48

• 34

• 5

• 4
9, 37

• 42

• 3
9. 17
. 28

Bastable (Prof. C. F.)
Bateman (J.) .
Bates (K. L.) .
Bateson (W.)
Bath (Marquis of) .
Bather (Archdeacon)
Baxter (L.) .
Beesly (Mrs.) .
Behrens (H.) .
Benedikt (R.)
Benham (Rev. W.) .
Benson (Archbishop)
Benson (W. A. S.)
Bentley .
Berg(L.).
Berlioz (H.) .
Bernard (C. E.)
Bernard (J. H.)
Bernard (H. M.)
Bernard (M.) .
Bernaud (T. D.)
Berners (J.) .
Besant (Sir W.)
Bettany (G. T.)
Bickerton (T. H.)
Bigelow(M. M.)
Bikblas (D.) .
Binnie (Rev. W.)
Birks (T. R.) 7,
Bjornson (B ) .
Black (W.) .
Blackburne (E.)
Blackib (J. S.)
Blake (J. F.) .
Blake (W.) .
Blakiston (J. R.)
Blanford(H. F.)
Blanford (W. T.) .
Blennerhassett (R.)
Blomfield (R.)
Blyth (A. W.) .
Bohm-Bawerk (Prof,)
Boldrewood (Rolf),

BONAR (J.)

Bond (Rev. J.).
Boole (G.)
Booth (C.)

RORGEAUD (C).

Borrow (G.) .
Bosanquet (B.)
Bose (W. P. du)

BOUGHTON (G. H.)

Boutmy (E.) .
Bowen (H. C.) .
Bower (F. O.) .
Bradford (A. H.)
Bradford (G.).
Bradley (A. G.)
Brbtt (R. B ) .
Bridges (J. A.).
Bright (U. A.).
Bright (John) .
Brimley(G.) .
Brodie (Sir B.).
Brodribb (W. J.)
Brooke (Sir J.)
Brooke (S. A.).

33.39

PAGE

35
4

24
7

36

42

4

, 11

6,2

38

, 41

42

i38

4

10

4
4
3»
35
15
42

14
4
7

28

15
21

42

, 42

10,

3.

5

4

II, 17, 24

3

4

9

34

11, 30

47

10

14

35
21

35
3'
32
37
15
21

37
4-
47
IS
3'

7
42
24

4
11

24
10
3fi

24

8

16, 46

4
16,17,26,42

Brooks (Bishop)
Brown (Prof. C.)
Brown (J. A.) .
Brown (Dr. James)
Brown (T. E. ) .
Browne (J. H B.)
Browne (Sir T.)
Bruce (P. A.) .
BRUNTON(Dr.T.L-)
Brycb (James) .
Buchheim (C. A.)

BUCKLAND (A.).
BUCKLDY (A. B.)
Bucknill (Dr. J. C
Buckton (G. B.)
BUNYAN .

Burdett (C. W. B.).

Burgon(J.W.)

Burkb (E.)

Burn (R.).

Burnett (F. Hodgson)

Burns

Bury (J. B.) .

Butcher (Prof. S. H.)

PAI
42,

7, 9, 32

Butler (A. J.) .
Butler (Rev. G.)
Butler (Samuel)
Butler (Archer)
Butler (Sir W. F.)
Buxton (Mrs. S.)
Byron

Cairnes (J. E.)
Cajori (F.)
Caldecott (R.)
Caldbron
Calderwood (H.)
Calderwood (W. L
Calvert (Rev. A.)
Cameron (V. L.)
Campbell (D. H )
Campbell (Sir G.)
Campbell (J. D.)
Campbell (J. F.)
Campbell (Dr. J. M
Campbell (Prof. Lewis)
Cantillon
Capes (W.W.).
Carles (W. R.)
Carlyle (T.) .
Carmarthen (Lady)
Carnarvon (Earl of)
Carnot (N. L. G.) .
Carpenter (Bishop)
Carr(J.C) .
Carroll (Lewis)
Carter (R. Brudenell)
CASSKL(Dr. D.)
Cattel(J. McK.) .
Cautley(G. S.)
Cazenove (J. G.) .
Chalmers (J. A.) .
Chalmers (J. B.)
Chalmers (M. D.) .
Chapman (Elizabeth R.)
Chappell (\V ).
Chase ^ev. F. H.).

a
47
33

1

4

17

14

25

12, 35

28,29,42

11, 36

• 25
6,36
. 12

• 29

• 5°
25
38
17
36

2

4, 24

I7.25
. 12

16, 24, 46
17, 46

35:

15'

32

42
17

42

4

38

25

36

28

48

17

,33

49

39

47

7

4

,18

47

42

16

35
16

47

4

21

46

34
42
1 17
43
?g

12
?3
17
4*
11
10
36
!7
3o
39

52

INDEX.

PAGE

Chasseresse (Diana) . 37
Chaucer ... 16, 17
Cheetham (Archdeacon). 40
Cherry (R. R.) . .15
Cheyne (C. H. H.) . .3
Cheyne (T. K.) . . 39
Chirol(V.) ... 36
Christie {\V. D.) . . zs
Church (Rev. A. J.).4,i6,38,46
Church (F. J.). . 20, 46
Church (R. W.).

4, s, 6, 12, 17, 24, 41, 42
Clare (G.) ... 35
Clark (J. W.) ... 25
Clark (L.) . . . 3
Clark (R) . . . 37
Clark (S.) ... 4
Clark (T. M.). . . 10
Clarke (C B.). . 10,35
Cleveland (Duchess) . 5
Clifford (Ed.) . . 4
Clifford (W. K.) . 24, 33
Clifford (Mrs. W. K.) . 48
Clough (A. H.) .18,24,25
Cobden (R.) . . . 36
Cohen (J. B.) . . .8
Cole (G. A. G.) . . 47

COLENSO (J. W.) . . 41

Coleridge (C. R.) . . 24

Coleridge (S. T.) . 4, 18

Collier (Hon. John) . 2

Collins (C ) . .10

Collins (J. Churton) . 24

Colquhoun (F. S.) . . 18

Colvin (Sidney) . 5, 26

Combe (G.) . . 4, 10

Commons (J. R.) . . 35

Congreve (Rev. J.) . . 42

Conway (Hugh) . . 21
Cook(E.T.) ... 2

Cooke (A. H.) . . .30

Cooke (C. Kir.loch) . . 30

Cooke (J. P.) . . 8, 43

Cooper (E. H.) . .21
Corbett(J.) . 4, 21, 48

corfield (w. h.) . . 14

Cornish (F.) . . . 43

Corson (H ) . . .24

Cossa (L.) . . . 35

Cotes (E.). . . 21

COTTERILL (J. H.) . . IO

Cotton (Bishop) . . 43
Cotton (C.) . . . 15
Cotton (J. S.) . . 36

Coues (E.) . . .50
courthoi'e (w. j.) . 4,1*5
cowell (g.) . . . 2q
Cowper . . .18, 24, 25
Cox(G. V.) ... 12
CRAlK(Mrs.) 18,21,24,25,47,48
Craik (H.) . 6, 10, 24, 36
Crane (Lucv) . . .47
Crane (Walter) . . 47
Craven (Mrs. D.) . . 9
Crawford (F. M.) .14,21,24
Creighton (BUhop M.) 5, 12

CRICHTON-BROWNK(SirJ.) IO

Cross (J. A.) ... 38
Crosskey (R.) . . . 14
Crossi 1 v (K.) ... 3
Crossley (H.) . . .46

CUMMING (L.) . . .33

CUNLIFFE (J. W.) . . 24

Cunningham (C.) . . 36

PAGE

Cunningham (Sir H.S.). 21
Cunningham (Rev. J.) . 40

CUNNINGHAM(ReV.\V)40,4I,43

Cunynghame (Sir A. X.) . 30
Curteis (Rev. G. H.) 40, 43
Curtin (J.) . . .21
D'Arcy (C F.). . .32
Dabbs (G. H. R.) . . 18
Dahlstrom (K. P.). . 10
Dahn (F.) . . . 21

Dakyns(H.G.) . . 46
Dale (A. W. W.) . . 40
Dalton (Rev. J. N.) . 46
Daniell (Alfred). . . 33
Dante . . .4, 17, 46
Dasent (A. I.). . . 12
Davidson (Bishop) . 41, 43
Davies (Rev. J. LIA 40,43
Davies (W/ . . 6, 43
Davis (R. H.) . . . 21
Dawkins (W. B.) . . 1
Dawson (G. M.) . . 11
Dawson (Sir J. W.) . . 11
Dawson (W. J.) . . 18
Day(L. B.) ... 21
Day(R. E.) ... 33
Dean (A.). . . .10
Dean(B.). . . -49
Defoe (D.) . . 5, 25
Degerdon (W. E.) . . 38
Di ighton (K.). 5, ig, 24, 27
Dei.amotte (P. H.). . 3
Delbos (L.) . . .31
Dell(E.C) . . 14

De Morgan (M.) . . 48
Deussen(P.) . . . 32
De Quatrefages (A.) . 1
De Varigny (H.) 7

De Vere(A.) . . iS, 24
Disraeli (B.) . . . 22
Dicey (A. V.) . . 15, 36
Dickens (C.) . . 21,24
Dickens (M. A.) . 22,24
Diggle (Rev. J. W.). . 43
Dilke (Ashton W.) . . 24
Dilke (Sir Charles W.) 30, 36
Dillwyn (E. A.) . . 22
Dobbin (L.) ... 8
Dobson (A.) . . 5, 14
Donaldson (J.) . . 41
Donisthorpe (\V.) . . 36
Dorr (J. C. R.) . . 47
Dowden (E.) 5, 17, 19, 26

Doyle (Sir F. H.) . . 18
Doyle (J. A.) . . .12
Drage(G.) . -37

Drake (B.) . . .46
Drum mond (Prof. J.) . 43
Dryden ... 24, 25
Du Cane (E. F.) . . 36
Dupp(Sir M. E. G.) 6, 24, 36, 47
Dunsmuir (A.). . . 22
DOntzer (H.) . . . 5, 6
Durand (Sir M.) . . 22
Dyer (I,.). . . 2, 35
Dyer (H.). . . -37
Eadie(J.). . . 4, 38, 40
Earl (A.). . . .33
Eastlake (Lady) . . 41
Ebers(G) ... 22
Eccles (A. S.) . . . 29
1 i" i.worth (Prof. F. Y.). 35
I .1-. worth (M.) . . 22

1 Edmunds (Dr. W.) . . 28

PAGB

Edwards-Moss (Sir J. E.) 38
Ehlers (E. S.).
Eimer(G. H.T.) .
Elderton (W. A.) .
Ellerton (Rev. J.) .
Elliott (Hon. A.) .
Ellis (A.).
Ellis (T.).
Emerson (R. W.) .
Emerson (O. F.)
Hkman (A.)
Evans (Lady) . .
Evans (S.)
Everett (J. D.)
Falconer (Lanoe) .
Farrar (Archd.)
Farrer (Sir 'I. H.) .
Fasnacht (G. E.) .
Faulkner (F.).
Fawcett (Prof. H.).
Fawcett (Mrs. H.) .
Fay (Amy) . .
Fayrek (Sir J.).

6, 39

35
35

Fearnley (W.^

29

7
II

43
36
24
3
24

31

2

2

18

33
22

43
36
25

8

37
^7

• 3<5
. 14

• 34
10

• 34

• 33

. 13

• M
I

• 33
37. 43

I

Fearon (D. R
Ferrel (W.) .
Fessenden (C.) .
Field (Rev. T.)
Fielde(A. M.).
Finck (H. T.) .
Fisher (Rev. O.)
Fiske(J.). 7, 12, 32,
Fison(L.).
Fitch (J- G.) . . .10
Fitz Gerald (Caroline) . 18
Fitzgerald (Edward) 18, 25
Fitzmaurice (Lord E.) 6

Flagg(A. T.) . . . 31
Fleischer (E ). . .8
Fleming (G.) . . .22
Flory (M. A.) ... 3
Flower (Sir W. H.). . 49
FlOckiger (F. A.) . . 2g
Fonda (A. J.) ... 35
Forbes (A.) . . 4, 47
Forbes (Prof. G.) . . 3
Forbes (Rev. G.) . . 43
Forbes-Mitchell (W.) 5, 47
Fortescue (Hon. J. W.).4,3o
Foster (Prof. M.) . 7, 34, 35
Fostek-Melliar (A.) . 10
o, 29

Fothergill (Dr. J. M.)
FowLE(Rev.T.W.).

36, 43

5> 3»

25, 3°

38

Fowler (Rev.T.)
Fowler (W.W.) .2,
Fox(T. W.) .
Fox (Dr. Wilson)
Foxwell (Prof. H. S)
Framji (D.) .
Francis (F.) .
Frankland(P. F.) .
Fuasi r (Mrs.) .
Fraser (Bishop)
Fraser-Tytler (C. C.)
Frazer (J. G.) .
Freeman (Prof. E. A.)

2, 5. ". 37, 40
French (G. R.)
Friedmann (P.)
Froissart
Frost (A. B.) .
Froudk (J. A.).
Fullerton (W. M.)

FURNIVALL (F. J.) .

29

12
2?

I

41

♦3

i3

I

>7

4

48

4
47
i3

INDEX.

53

33

PAGE
FYFFE (C. A.) . . . 12

Fyfe(H. H.) ... ii
Gairdner (J.) ... 5
Gaisford (H.) . . . io

GALT (J.) .... 22

Galton (F.) ... i
Gamgee (Arthur) . . 35
Gardner (E.) ... 2
Gardner (Percy)
Garnett (R.) .
Garnett (W.) .
Gaskell (Mrs.)
Gaskoin (Mrs. H.)
Geddes (W. D.)
Gee(H.) .
Gee (W. W. H.)
GEiKia(Sir A.). 4,5,6,
Gennadius (I.)
Genung(I. F.)
George (H. B.)
Gibbins (H. de B.) .
Gibbon (Charles)
Gillies (H C.)
Gilchrist (A.).
Giles (P.).
Gilman (N. P.)
Gilmore (Rev. J . ) .
Gladstone (Dr. J. H.)
Gladstone (W. E.).
Glaister (E.) .
Glover (E.)

GODFRAV (H.) .

Godkin(G. S.).

Goethe . . 5, 14,

Goldie (J.)

Goldsmith 5, 14, 18,

Gonner(E. C. K.) .

Goodfellow (J.)

Goodnow (F. J.)

Gordon (General C. G.)

Gordon (Lady Duff)

Gordon (H.) .

Goschen (Rt. Hon. G. J.

Gosse (Edmund)

Gow(J.) .

Gow (W.)

Gracian (Balthasar)

Graham (D.) .

Graham (J. W.)

Grand'homme (E.) .

Grane(W. L.).

Grant(C)

Gray (Prof. Andrew)

Gray (Asa)

Gray . . .5

Gray (J. L.) .

Gregory (R. A.)

Green (J. R.) 11, 12, 14, 25, 26

Green (Mrs. J. R.) . 5, 11, 12

Green (W. S.) .

Grkenhill (W. A.)

Greenwood (F.)

Greenwood (J. E.)

Grenfell (Mrs.)

Griffiths (W. H.)

Grimm

Grove (Sir G.).

Guest (E.)

Guest (M.J.) .

Guillemin (A.)

Guizot (F. P. G.)

GUNTON (G.) . . .35

GwATKIN (H. M.) . . 40

Halle (E. von) . . 35

18
5
14
S8
17, «6
. 4°
34
,34
21

17
20
12

4
29

4
31

;■ 37
16

, 10
17

2, 9

43

6

1,25
37
Si 26
11
14
»S

5

47

33

35

5, 16

2
31
25
iX
2?

9
43
22

34

2C
l6
26
33

33i

PAGE

Hales (J. W.) . 18, 21, 25, 26
Hallward (R. F.) . . 15
Hamerton (P. G.) . 3, 15, 26
Hamilton (Prof. D. J.) . 29
Hamilton (J.). . . 43
Hanbury (D.) . . 7, 29
Hannay (David) . . 4
Harden (A.) ... 8
Hardwick (Archd. C.) 40, 43
Hardy (A. S.) . . . 22
Hardy (W. J.). . . 4°
Hare (A. W.) ... 26
Hare (J. C.) ... 43
Harker(A.) . . .34
Harris (Rev. G. C). . 43
Harrison (F.). 5, 6, 12, 15, 26
Harrison (Miss J.). . 2
Harte (Bret) . . . 22
Hartig (Dr. R.) . .7
Hartley (Prof. W. N.) . 8
Hassall (A.) ... 12
Hatch (F. J.) . . . "
Hauser(K.) ... 5
Hawkins (H. P.) . . 29
Hayes (A.) . . 18

Headlam (A. C.) . . 2
Headley (F. W.) . 30, 50
Heaviside (O.) . . 34
Helm(E.). . . .35
Helps (Sir A.) . . .26
Hempel (Dr. W.) . . 8
Henley (W. E.) . . 15
Herman (H.) . . .23
Herodotus . . .46
Herrick . . . .25
Herrmann (G.) . . 10

HERTEL(Dr-) . . .10

Hertz (H.) ... 34
Hickie (W. J.). . . 39
Higinbotham (C. J.) . 5
Hill (D.J.) ... 32
Hill (F. Davenport) . 37
Hill(0.). ... 37
Hill(G. B.) ... 12
Hiorns (A. H.) . 29, 30
Hobart (Lord) . . 26

Hobday (E.) . . .10
Hodgson (Rev. J. T.) . 5
Hoffding (Prof. H.) . 33
Hoffman (W. J.) . .1
Hofmann(A.W.) . . 8
Hole (Rev. C). . 9, I2
Holiday (Henry) . . 48
Holland (T. E.) . 15, 37
Hollway-Calthrop(H.) 48
Holm (A.). . . .13
Holmes (O. W.,junr.) . 15
Homer ... 17, 46
Hood(T.). . . .15
Hooker (Sir J. D.) . 7,47
Hoole (C. H.) . . . 39
Hooper (G.) ... 4
Hooper (W. H.) . .3
Hopkins (E.) ... 18
Hoppus(M. A. M.) . . 22
Horace . . 17, 25, 46

Hort (F. J. A.). 39, 40, 41, 43
Horton (Hon. S. D.) . 35
Hosken (J- D) • • l8
Hovenden (R. M.) . . 46
Howell (George) . 15, 35
Howes (G. B.) . . 35,49
Howitt (A. W.) . . 1
Howson (Very Rev. J. S.) 41

page
Hozier (Col. H. M.). . 30
Hubner (Baron) . . 47
Hughes (T.)

4, 5, 18, 22, 25, 41, 43, 47
Huddilston (J. H.) . 39
Hull(E.) . . 2, 11

HULLAH (J.) . . 2, 25, 30

HuMPHRY(Prof.SirG.M.) 35,49
Hunt (Rev. W.) . . 12
Hunt (W.) ... 3
Hutchinson (G. W. C.) . 3
Hutton (R. H.) . 5, 26
Hutton (Rev. W. H.) . 5
Huxley (T)

5, 26, 32, 33, 34, 35, 37, 49
Hyde (W. de W.) . . 43
Illingworth (Rev. J. R.) 43
Impey(S. P.) . . • 29
Ingram (T. D.) . . 13
Ireland (A.) . . .26
Irving (H.) . . .20
Irmng (J.) ... 11
Irving (Washington) . 15
Jack (A. A.) . . 17

Jackson (D. C.) . . 34
Jackson (F. G.) . . 47
Jackson (Helen) . . 22
Jacob (Rev. J. A.) . 43

Jacobs (J.) . .14,25,47
James (Henry). . 5,22,26
James (Rev. H.) . . 43
James (Prof. W.) . . 33
jARDINE(Rev. R.) . . 33

Jeans (Rev. G E.) . 43, 46
J ebb (Prof. R. C.) 4,13,16,26
Jellett (Rev. J. H.) . 43
Jenks (Prof. Ed.) . . 37
Jennings (A. C.) . 13,38
Jersey (Countess of) . 48
Jephson(H.) . -37

Jevons (W. S.) 5, 3?> 35, 36, 37
Jex-Blake (Sophia). . 9
Joceline (E.) . . .26
Johnson (Amy) . . 34
Johnson (Samuel) . 5, 16, 25
Jolley(A. J.) ... 39
Jones (Prof. D. E.) . . 34
Jones (F.). ... 8
Jones (H. Arthur) .16, 18, 26
Jones (H. S.) . . .2
Julius (Dr. P.). . . 9
Kahlden (C.) . . .29
Kalm (P.) . . . 47
Kant . . . -32
Kanthack (A. A.) . . 29
Kari .... 48

K.AVANAGH(Rt.Hn.A.M.) 5
Kav(R«v.W.). . . 39
Keary (Annie). 13,22,38,48
Keary (Eliza) . . .48
Keats . . .5, 25, 26
Keble(J.). . . . 25
Kellner (Dr. L.) . . 31
Kellogg (Rev. S. H.) . 43
Kelly (E.) . . -43
Keltie (J. S.) . . . 38
Kelvin (Lord). 11, 31, 33, 34
Kempe (A. B.) . . -33
KENNEDV(Prof.A. B. W.) io

Kennedy (B. H.) . . 46
Kennedy (P.) . . .22
Keynes (J. N.). . 32,36
Kidd(B.) ... 37

KlEPERT (H.) . . .II

54

INDEX.

PAGE
KlMBER (D. C.) . . as

KlNG(F. H.) ... I
KlNG(G.). ... 13

KiNGSLEY(Charles)5,io,i3,i4,
16,18,22,23,26,27,30,41,47,48
Kingsley(G.) . . .38
Kingsley (Henry) . 25, 47
Kipling (J. L.). . . 47
Kipling (Rudyard) . 23, 48
Kirkpatrick (Prof.) 38, 43
Klein (Dr. E.). . 7, 29, 30
Klein (F.) ... 28
Knight (W.) . 17, 28, 32
Kuenen (Prof. A.) . . 38
Kynaston (Rev. H.) 43, 46
Labberton (R. H.). . 3
La Farge (J.) ... 3
Lafargub (P.). . . 23
Lamb. . . .5, 25, 27
Lanciani (Prof. R.). . 3
Landauer (J.). . . 8
Landor . . . 5, 25
Lane-Poole (S.) . 6, 25
Lanfrey (P.) ... 5
Lang (Andrew) 15, 26, 46

Lang (Prof. Arnold). . 4y
Langley (J. N.) . . 34
Langmaid (T.). . 10

Lankestek (Prof. Ray) 7, 27
Lassar-Cohn (Dr.). . 8
Laslett (T.) ... 7
Laughton (J. K.) . . 4
Laurie (A. P.). . .1,3
Lawrence (T. J.) . . 15
Lea (A. S.) . . . 35
Leaf (W.) . . i7, 46
Leahy (Sergeant) . . 38
Lee CM.) . . . .23
Lee (S.) ... 25, 46
Lee-Warner (W.) . . 13
Leeper (A.) . . .46
Legge(A. O.) . . 13,-3
Leibnitz . . . . .6
Leslie (G. D.) . . . 27
Lethabv(W. R.) . 2,38
Lethbridge (Sir Roper) 5, 13
Levy (Amy) . . .23
Lewis (Mrs. A. S.) . . 39
Lewis (R.) . . . 16
Lewkowitscii (J.) . . 38
Lightfoot (bishop)

5: 13. 39. 4°, 4*. 43.44
LlGHTWOOD (J. M.) . . 15

Lindsay (Dr. J. A.) . . 29
Littledale(H.) . . 17
Lockyer(J. N.) . 3,8,34

LODEMAN (E. G.) . . 10

Lodge (Prof. O. J.) 3, 27, 34
Lodge (R.) ... 5
Lowenso.j-Lessing (F.) . 11
Loewy(IS.) . .33

Loftie (Mrs. W. ].). . 2
Longfellow (H. W.) 25,26
Lonsdale (J.) . . 25, 46
Lowe(W. H.) . . 38,39
Lowell (f. R.l i5, ,8, 27

Loudoun (W. J.) . . 33
Louis (H.) . . .38
Lu3BOCK(SirJ.) 7, 10,27, ro
Lucas (F.) ... 18
Lucas (Joseph). . . 47
Lunt(J). ... 8
Lupion (S.) ... 8
Lyall (Sir Alfred) . 4

PAGE

• 23

• 13

• 44

• 27

• 23

• 29
. 12

20, 25, 46

• 27

• 17

• 44
33
21
29
46

37
39

•H
4«
3i

*g

3»i

I 44:

15,

Lysaght (S. R.)
Lyte(H.C. M.)
Lyttelton (A. T.)
Lyttelton (E.)
Lytton (Earl of)
MacAlister (D.)
Macarthur (M.)
Macaulay (G. C.)
Macau lay (Lord) .
Maccoll (Norman).
McCurdy (J. F.) .
M'Cosh (Dr. J.)
Macdonald (George)
Macdonald (G.)
v!ackail(J. W.) .
MacKnight(J.)
Maclagan (Dr. T.).
Maclarkn (Rev. Alex.)
Maclaren (Archibald)
Maclean (G. E.) .
Maclean (W. C.) .
Maclear (Rev. Dr.)s8, 4^ 41
McLennan (J. C.) . ' . 33
M'Lennan (J. F.) . . 1
M'Lennan (Malcolm) . 23
Macmillan (Rev. H.) 27,44
Macmillan (Michael) 6, 19
Macmillan (M. K.) . 23
Macquoid (K. S.) . . 23
Madoc (F.) . . .23
Maguire(J. F.) . . 48

MAHAFFV(Prof. J. P.)
2, 13, 16, 27, 32

Maitland(F.W.) .
Malet (L.)
Malory (Sir T.)
Malthus(T. R.) .
Mansfield (C. li.) .
Marcou (J.) .
Markham (C. R.) .
Marr (J. E.) .
Marriott (J. A. R.).
Marryat (Capt.) .
Marshall (Prof. A.)
Marshall (H. R.) .
Martel(C.) .
Martin (Frances) .
Martin (Frederick).
Martin (H. N.)
Martineau (C. A.).
Martineau (H.)
Martineau (Dr. J.)
Mason (A. E. W.) .
Mason (O.T.).
Masson(D.) 5, 18, 2]
Masson (G.) .
Masson (R. O.)
Mathew (E. J.)
Maturin (Rev. W.).
Maudslky (Dr. H.) .
Maurice (F. D.)

jo, 27, 32, 38-40, 41, 44
Maurice (Gen. F.) 5, 30, 36
Max MOllf.r (K.) .
Mayer (A. M.).
Mayo-Smith (R.) .
Mayor (J. B.) .
Mayor (Prof. J. E. B.)
Mazini (L.)

Meldola (Prof. R.l. 8, 33
Mendenhali. (T. C.)
Menger(C) .

MlNsCHUTKIN (A.) .

Mkrcier (Dr. C.) . . 89

1 1

32
34
37
4°
3,6
49
34
34
3f
8

PAGK

Mercue (Prof. J.) . . 30

Meredith (G.). . . 18

Meredith (L. A.) . . 15

Meyer (E. von) . . 8-

Meyrick (E.) . . . 30.

Miall(L. C.) . 30, 50

Michelet(M.) . . 13.

Miers (H. A.) . . .14
Mill(H.R.) ... 11

Miller (R. K.). . . 3

Milligan (Rev. W.). 40, 44

Milton . 5, 16, 18, 2 -„ 27

Minto (Prof. W.) . 5, 23

Mitford (A. B.) . . 23

Mitford(M. R.) . . 15

Mivart (St. George). . 35

Mixter(W. G.) . . 8

Molssworth (Mrs.) . 49

Molloy (G.) . . .33

MOLYNKUX (W. C. F.) . 30
MONAHAN (J. H.) . . 15

Montefiore (C. G.) . 43

MONTELIUS (O.) . . I

Moore (C. H.). . . 3
Moorhoose (Bishop) . 44

MORIER (J.) . . . 33

Morison (J. C.) . . 5
Morley (John). 4, 5, 20, 27
Morris (E. E ). . .5
Morris (Mowbray) . 4, 35
Morris (R.) . . 35, 31
MORSHEAX) (E. D. A.) . 46
Moulton (L. C.) . . 18
Moulton (R. G.) . . 38
Mudie(C. E.) ... 18
Muir(I.). ... 1
Muir(M. M.P.) . . 8
MOller(H.) ... 8
Mullinger (J. B.) . . 13
Mun(T.). ... 35
Munro (J. E. C.) . . 15
Murphy (J. J.). . 7,33,44
Murray (D.Christie) . 33
Murray (G.) ... 8
Myers (E.) . . 18, 46
Myers (F. W. H.) . 5, 19, 27
Mylne (Bishop) . . 44
Nadal(E. S.) . . . 27
NHKNST(Dr.) ... 8"
Netti.eship (H.). . . 16
Nkwcomb (S.) . . 3

Newcastle (Duke and
Duchess)

Nl WMAN (G.) .
Newton (Sir C. T.).
Nichol(J.)
Nichols(E. L.)
Nicholls(H. A. A.)
Nisbkt(J.)
Noel (Lady A.)
Nordenskiold (A. E.)
Norgatk (Kate)
Norris (W. E.)
Norton (Charles Eliot)
Norton (Hon. Mrs.)
Nokway(A. H.)
Omphant (T. L. K.)
OnPHANT(Mrs. M. O. W.)

5. «3. «6, 23, 35, 49
Oliver (Prof. D.) . . 8
Oliver (Capt. S. P.). . 47
Oman (C. W.) ... 4
Orr(H. B.) ... 1
Osborn (H. F.) . . y

25
29

2

4

33

1

8

23

47

13

23

46

23

3»

»7. 31

4.

19.

OsTWALD (Prof.)

Otte (E. C.) .
Page(T.E.) .
Palgrave (Sir F.)
Paterson (J.) .
Patmore (Coventry)
Patteson (J. C.)
Pattison (Mark)
Paulsen (F.) .
Payne (E.J.) .
Peabody (C. H.)
Peacock (T. L.)
Pearson (C. H.)
Pease (A. E.) .
Peel (E.) .
Peile(J.).
Pellissier (E.)
Pen nell (J.) .
Pennington (R.)
Penrose (F.C.)
Percival(H. M.)
Perkins (J. B.)
Peterson (W.)
Pettigrew (J. B.)
Phillimore (J. G.)
Phillips (F. E.)
Phillips (J. A.)
Phillips (W. C.)

PlCTON (J. A.) .
PlFFARD (H. G.)

Pike (L. O.) .
Pike (W.).
Plato

Plumptre (Dean)
Pollard (A.W.)
Pollock (Sir F., Bart.)

6, 16, 27, 36, 37

page

. 8
. 13

• 39
. 13
. 16

25, 49

. 6

5. 6, 44
. 10

12, 36

io, 34

. 23

• 37

• 14

• 19

• 3i

• 32

• 3
. 11

2
18, 19

• 13
46
4')
16

• 23

■ ?°

• 3

• 27

. 29

■ 13

• 47

26, 46

• 44
16, 17, 46

8,35,

Pollock (Lady)
Poole (M.E.) ,
Poole (R. L.)
Pope .
Poste (E.)
Potter (L.)
Potter (R.)
Potts (W.)
Preston (T.)
Prestwich(J.)
Price (E. C.) .
Price (L. L. F. R.)
Prickard (A. O.)
Prince Albert Vic
Prince George
Procter (F.) .
Propert (J. L.)
Prowse (D. W.)
Purcell(E. S.)
Quesnay(F.) .
Rabbeno (U.) .
Rae(J.) . .
Ramsay (Sir A. C.)
Ramsay (W.) .
Ransome (C.) .
Rathbone rw.)
Ratzel (F.) .
Rawlinson (W.G.)
Rawnsley (H. D.)
Ray (P. K.) .
Rayleigh (Lord)
Reichel (Bishop)
ReidQ.S.) .
Remsen (I.)
Renan (E.) .
Rendall (Rev. F.)
Rendu (M.leC.)

2

27

13

27

4"
27

44
27

34
1 1

23

36

27

4*
♦«
41

3
13

5
3<5
36

6,36
6
8
17
9
1

15
19
3"
3«

44
46

40

6

44
11

INDEX.

PAGE

Reynolds (E. S.) . . 14
Reynolds (H. R.) . . 44
Palgrave (F. T.)

3. 19, 21, 25, 26, 42,49
Palgrave (R. H. Inglis) . 3s
Palgrave (W. G.) 19, 37, 47
Palmer (Lady S.) . . 23
Parker (T. J.). . 7,49
Parker (W. K.) . .6
Parker (W. N.)
Parkes (Sir H.)
Parkin (G. R. )
Parkinson (S.)
Parkman (F.) . .
Parry (G.)
Parsons (Alfred)
Pasteur (L.) .
Pater (W.) . 3, 16,
Paterson (A.).
Reynolds (Sir J. R.)
Reynolds (O.)
Rhoades(J.) .
Rhodes (J. F.).
Ricardo .
Richardson (B. W.)
Richey(A. G.).
Righton (E.) .
Ritchie (A.) .
Robb(R.).

Robinson (Preb. H. G.)
Robinson (J. L.)
Robinson (Matthew)
Rockstro (W. S.) .
Rogers (J. E.T.) .
Romanes (G. J.)
Roscoe (Sir H. E.) .
Roscoe (W. C.)
Rosebery (Earl of).
Rosenbusch (H.) .
Rosevear (E.)-
Ross (P.) .
Rossetti (C. G.)
routledge (j.)
Rowe(F.J.) .
Roy (Neil)

Rucker (Prof. A. W.)
Rumford (Count) .
Rushbrooke (W. G.)
Russell (Dean)
Russell (Sir Charles)
Russell (W. Clark) .
Russell (T.) .
Rutherford (W. G.)
Ryland (F.) .
RYLE(Prof. H.E.) .
Sadler (H.)
Saintsbury (G.)
Salmon (Rev. G.) . . .4
Salt(H. S.) . . .28
Sandford (Bishop) . . 4+
Sandford (M. E.) . . 6
Sandys (J. E.) . . . 47
Sayce (A. H.) . . .13
Scaife (W. B.). . . 27
Scartazzini (G. A.) . 17
Schi iemann (Dr.)
Schmoller (G.) . .35
Schorlemmer (C.) . . 8, 9
Schreiber (T.). . . 2
Schuchhardt (C.) . . 2
Schui.tz (Dr. G.) . . 9
Scott (M.) . . 23

Scott (Sir W.) . . 19,25
Scratchley (Sir Peter) . 30

55

• 49

. 6

13. 37

• 34
i3>47

• 23
. 15
. 8

231 27
. 23
. 29

• 14
. 23

• 13
35, 36

14, 29
16
18

6
10
44
31

6

5

, 37

7

8,9

19

5

11

9

23

,49

37

20

23

9
27

39

44
37
4, ^3

3<
46
,6

■ 4
3

3S

Scudder (S. H.)
Seaton (Dr. E. C.) .
Seebohm (H. E.)
Seeley (Sir J. R.) .13,
Shiler (Dr. Carl)
SELBORNE(Earlof) 25,
Seligman (E.) .
Sellers (E.) .
Service ( J. )
Sewell (E. M.)
Shadwell (C. L.) .
Shairp (J. C.) .
Shakespeare . 17, 19,
Shann (G.)
Sharp (W.) . .
Shaw (Miss) . .
Shelley .
Shipton (Helen) .
Shirley (W. N.) .
Shore (L. E.) .
Shorthouse (J. H.)
Shortland (Admiral)
Shuckburgk (E. S.)
Shufeldt (R. W.) .
Sibson (Dr.F.)
Sidgwick (A.) .
Sidgwick (Prof. H.) 32,

SlME (J.) .

Simpson (Rev. W.) .
Skeat (W. W.)
Skrine (J. H.).
Slade (J. H.) . .
Sleeman (L.) . .
Slomah (Rev. A.) .
Smart (W. )
Smalley (G. W.) .
Smetham (J. and S.)
Smith (Adam) . 3, 6,
Smith (Alexander) .
Smith (C. B.) .
Smith (Garnet).
Smith (Goldwin)

4, 6, 14, 21, 27, 37,
Smith (H.)
Smith (J.)
Smith (Rev. T.)
Smith (W. G.) .
Smith (L. Pearsall) .
Sohm (R.).

Somerville (Prof. W.)
Southey .
Spanton (J.) .
Spender (J. K.)
Spenser .
Spottiswoodf (W.).
St. Asaph (Bishop of)
St. Johnston (A.) .23,
Stanley (Dean)
Stanley (Hon. Maude)
Statham (R.) .
Stebmng (W.).
Steei (F. A.) .
Stephen (C. E.)
Stephen (H.) .
Stephen (Sir J. F.) 14,
Stephen (j. K.)
Stephen (L.) .
Stephens (T. B.)
Stephens (\V. R. W.)
Stevens (C. E.)
Stevenson (F. S.) .
Stevenson (J. J.) .
Stewart (A.) .
Stewart (Baltour) 33,

PAGE

• 5°

• 29
1

37. 44
29, 35

40, 42

• 36
2

41, 44

• 13
. 46
4, 19

25, 26

10, 34
. 6

• 13
19, 26

. 23

• 44

• 34

• 23

• 31
14, 46

• 49

• 29
. 20

, 36, 37

11, 13

• 40

• 17

6, 19

. 10

• 47
. 39

• 3°
6, 27
. 6

35, 36
17, 25

• 19

• »4

45, 47
19

8

44

8

24
40

7

6, 26

3

29
25
34
40

47, <9
44
37
37

4
24

9

16

16, 27

16

5
19

5
16

6

2

49

34, 45

56

INDEX.

3"

PAGE

Stokes (Sir G. G.) . , 34
Story (R. H.) . . .4
Stone (W.H.). . . 34
Strachey (Sir E.) . . 25
Strachey (J. St. L.) . 37
Strachey (Gen. K.). . n
STRANGFORE>(Viscountess) 47
Strettell (A.) . . 19
Stubbs (Dean) . . .45
Stubbs (Bishop) . .40
Sutherland (A.) . . 11
Swainson (H.).
S\VETE(Prof. H. B.).
Swift (Dean) .
Symonds (J. A.)
Symonds (Mrs. J. A)
Symons (A.)
Taggart (W. S.) .
Tainsh (E. C).
Tait (Archbishop) .
Tait(C. W. A.)
Tait (Prof P. G.)
Tanner (H.) .
Tarr(R. S.) .
Tavernier (J. B.) .
Taylor (E. R.).
Taylor (Franklin) .
Taylor (Isaac).
Taylor (Sedley)
Tegetmeiek (W. B.)
Temple (bishop)
Temple (Sir R.)
Tennant (Dorothy).
Tenniel (Sir John) .
Tennyson (Lord) 17, 19
Tennyson (Frederick)
Tennyson (Lord H.) 15,49
Theodoli (Marchesa) . 24
Thompson (D 'A. V.) 8

Thompson (E.). . . i?
Thompson (II. M.) . . 36
Thompson (S. P.) . . 34
Thomson (A. W.) . . 10
Thomson (Sir C. W.) . 50
Thomson (Hugh) . . 14
Thoreau . . . .28
Thorne (Dr. Thome) 29

Thornton (J.). . . 7
Thornton (W. T.) 32, 37, 46
Thorpe (T. E.). . . 6, q
Thring (E.) . . 10, 28
Thrupp(J. F.). . . 38
Thikskield (J. R.) . . 5
Todhunter (I.) . . 6
Torrens(W.M.) . . 5
Tourgbnief (I. S.) . . 24
Tout(T.F.) . . 5,14
Tozer(H. F.) . . . 11
Traill (H.D.). . 4, 5, 36
Trench (Capt. F.) . . 37
Trench (Archbishop) . 45
Trevelyan (Sir G. O.) 14, 28
Trevor (G. H.) . . 20
Tribe (A.).

39
15

5

6

1 j

3^

17

6, 45

14

33i 34, 45

34
47

3
30
45
34

9
45

4

48

48

30, 26

20

PAGE

Tristram (W. O.) . . 15
Trollope (A.) ... 5
Truman (J.) • .20

Tucker (T. G.) . . 46
Tuckwell (W.) . .14
Tufts (J. H.) . . .32
Tulloch (Principal). . 45
Turner (C. Tennyson) . 20
Turner (G.) . . . 1
Turner (H. H.) . . 34
Turner (J. M. W.) . . 15
Turpin (G S.) . . .9
Tvlor(E. B.) . . 1

I'yrwhitt (R. St. J.) 3, 20
Tyrrell (R. Y.) . 16,28
Vaughan(C. J.) 35, 43, 41, 45
Vaughan (Rev. D. j.)25,28 45
Vaughan (Rev. E.T.) . 45
Vaughan (Rev. R.). . 45
Veley (M.) . . .24
Venn (Rev. J.). . 33, 45
Vernon (Hon. W. W.) . 17
Verrall (A. W.) . 17,46
Verrall (Mrs.) . . 2
Vickerman (C.) . . 38
Victor (H.) . . .24
Vines (S.H.) ... 8
Viollet-Le-Duc (E. E.). 10
Wain (Louis) . . .48
Waldstein (C.) . . 2
Wat ker (Prof. F. A.) . 36
Walker (Jas.) . . 8

Walker (Louisa) . . 38
Wallace (A. R.) . 7, 30, 36
Wallace (Sir D. M.) . 37
Walpole(S.) ... 36
Walton (I.) . . .15
Ward (A. W.) . 4, «, 16, 25
Ward (H. M.) . . " . 7, 8
Ward(S.). . . .20
Ward(T. H.) ... 21
Ward (Mrs. T. H.) . 24,49
Ward(W.) . . 6, 2 , 4x
Ware(W. R.) . . . 3
Waters (C. A.) . . 35
Waterton (Charles) 30, 47
Watson (E.) ... 6
Watson (R. S.) . . 47
Watson (W.) . . 20, 25
Way (A. S.) . . . 46
Webb(W.T.) . . 18, 20
Webster (Mrs. A.) . 20, 49
Weisbach (J.) . . 10

Welby-Gregory (Lady) . 41
Wei.ldon (Rev. J. E. C.) 45,46
West(M.) . . .24
Westcott(Bp.)^8,39, 40,41, 45
Westermarck (E.). . 1
Wetherell (J.) . . 32
Wheeler (J. T.) . . 14
Wiiewei.l(W.). . . 6
Wiutcomi) (L. S.) . 3,16
White (A.) ... 28
White (Gilbert) . 15,31

PAGE

• 29

• 34

• 9

20, 26, 28

• 45

• 45
36, 3^
35, 49

• 36

• 41
i6,45

• 3°

C)

) 2,

I4i

White (Dr. W. Hale)
White (W.) .
Whitney (W. D.)
Whittier (J. G.)
Whittuck (C. A.)
Wickham (Rev. E.
Wicksteed (P. H.)
Wiedersheim (R.)
Wieser (F. von)
Wilbraham (F. M.)
Wilkins (Prof. A. S
Wilkinson (S.)
Willey (A.)
Williams (C. M.)
Williams (C. T.J
Williams (G. H.)
Williams (H.).
Williams (Montagu)
Williams (S. K.)
Williamson (M. B.)
Willink(A.) .
Willoughuy(E. F.)
Willoughby (F.)
Wills (W. G.) .
Wilson (A. J.) .
Wilson (Sir C.)
Wilson (Sir D.)
Wilson (E. B.).
Wilson (Dr. O.)
Wilson (Archdeacon)
Wilson (Mary).
Winchester (Bishop of;.
Windelband (W.) .
Wingate (Major F. R.) .
Winkworth (C.) . .
Winkworth (S.) .
Winter (W.) .
Wolsei.ey (Gen. Viscount)
Wood (A. G.) .
Wood (C.J.) .
Wood (Rev. E. G.) .
Woods (Rev. F. H.).
Woods (Miss M. A.).
Woodward (C. M.) .
Woolner (T.) .
Wordsworth 4, 6, 17,20,26,28

1, 4

7
32
29
11

31

6
16

45
45
14
49
20

36

4
17

■ SO
6,28-

• 45

. 16

6

32

3°

6

25
15
3°
. 20

• 45

14, 45
1

ax, 42
. 10-
. 20

Worthey (Mrs.)
Wright (Rev. A.)
Wright (MissG.)
Wright (J.)
Wright iL) .
Wright (M. O.)
Wright (W.A.)

WuLKER(Dr.) .

Wurtz (Ad.) .
Wyatt (SirM. D.)
Yeo(J.) .
Yoe (Shway)

Yonge(C.M.)6,8,9, 13, t 3, 14,
24, '6, 28, 32, 38, 49.
Young (E.W.) 10

Younghusband(G. J. and

F. E.) . . . . 30.
Ziegler (Dr. E.) . .a)

. 24

• 39

• 9

70, 26

• 34

• 2?, 3i
9,18,25,40
16
9

34

47

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