Old and new London: a narrative of its history, its people, and its places

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Ex Libris
C. K. OGUEN

Old and New London

A NARRATIVE OF

Its History its People and its Places

SlUuetratei toiti) nomcrouB ©nsraBinffS from tl)c moet autftnitit ^onrcro

THE SOUTHERN SUBURBS

BY

Edward Walford

A NEW EDITION CAREFULLY REVISED AND CORRECTED

Vol. VI

CASSELL AND COMPANY Limited

LONDON PARIS c- MELBOU&AE

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

PA

JJNIVEJISITY 01" CALIFORNLS
SANTA BARBARA

CONTENTS,

THE SOUTHERN SUBURBS.

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY.— SOUTHWARK.

PAOI

Introductory Remarks — Geological Observations — Earliest Mention of Southwark in History — Its Etymology — Southwark as a Roman
Settlement — Old London Bridge — Knul's Trench — Reception of William the Conqueror by the Natives of Southwark — The Civic
Government of Southwark — Its Annexation to the City — An Icelander's Account of Old London Bridge — The Story of OlaTs Destruction
of the Bridge — HymR sung on the Festival of St. Olave r

CHAPTER 11.

SOUTHWARK [conthtued).-0]JD LONDON BRIDGE.

Controversy respecting the Trench from Rotherhithe to Battersea— How London Bridge was "built on Woolpacks"— Religious and Royal
Processions at the Bridge- foot— Partial Destruction of Old London Bridge by Fire— Conflict between the Forces of Henry III. and
those of the Earl of Leice:^ter~Reception of Henr>- V. after the Battle of Agincourt— Fall of the Southern Tower of London Bridge—
Southwark wholly destitute of Fortifications— Jack Cade's Rendezvous in Southwark — Death of Jack Cade— Heads on London Bridge
—Reception of Henry VI. and Henry VII. — Reception of Katharine of Aragon— Cardinal Wolscy— Insurrection of Sir Thomas
Wyatt— Rebuilding of the Northern Tower— Standards of the Spanish Armada placed on London Bridge— Southwark Fortified by
the Parliamentarians, to oppose King Charles — Reception of Charles II. — Com Mills on London Bridge— Tradesmen's Tokens—
Bridge-foot — The "Bear" Inn — The "Knave of Clubs" — Bridge Street — The Shops on London Bridge — The Bridge House —
General Aspect of Southwark in the Middle Ages — Gradual Extension of Southwark — Great Fire in Southwark in 1676 — Building of
New London Bridge , g

CHAPTER III.

SOUTHWARK {continued). ST. SAVIOUR'S CHURCH, &c.

The Limits of Southwark as a Borough — The Liberty of the Clink — The Old High Street — The Clock -tower at London Bridge — The Borough
Market—Old St. Saviour's Grammar School — The Patent of Foundation granted by Queen Elizabeth — St. Saviour's Church — The
Legend of Old Audrey, the Ferryman — Probable Derivation of the Name of Overy, or Overie — Foundation of the Priory of St. Mary
Overy — Burning of the Priory in 1212 — Building of the Church of St. Mary Magdalen — Historical Events connected with the Church
— Religious Ceremonies and Public Processions— Alterations and Restorations of St. Saviour's Church — The Lady Chapel used as a
Bakehouse— Bishop Andrewes' Chapel — John Gower, John Fletcher, and; other Noted Personages buried here — Hollar*s Etchings —
Montague Close l5

CHAPTER TV.

SOUTHWARK (^(7«//ffttt'i).— WINCHESTER HOUSE, BARCLAY'S BREWERY, &c.

Scow's Description of Winchester House— Park Street Chapel— Marriage Feast of James I. of Scotland at Winchester House— The Palace
attacked by the Insurgents under Sir Thomas Wyatt— John, Duke of Finland, lodged here- The Palace sold to the Presbyterians,
and turned into a Prison for the Royalists— Its Recovery by the Bishop of Winchester— Remains of the Old Palace — The "Stews"
on the Bankside—" Holland's Leaguer "—" Winchester Birds "—Old Almshouses— Messrs. Barclay and Perkins' Brewery— Its Early
History— Mr. and Mrs. Thrale— Dr. Johnson's Intimacy with the Thrales— Purchase of the Brewery by Mr. David Barclay— Origin of
the Firm of Barclay and Perkins—Mrs Piozzi, and her Literary Acquaintances— Account of the various Processes of Malting. Brewing,
&c.— The Brewery described — Monster Vats— Attack on General Haynau— Richard Baxter— Zoar Street Chapel— Oliver Goldsmith-
Holland Street— Falcon Glass Works — The "Falcon" Tavern— Hopton's Almshouses— Messrs. Potts' Vinegar Works— St. Peter's
Church— St. Saviour's Grammar School— Improvements in Southwark— Southwark Street — The Hop Exchange 2g

CHAPTER V,

SOUTHWARK {continued).— 'BK^KSID^ IN THE OLDEN TIME.

Appearance of Bankside in the Seventeenth Century— The Globe Theatre— Its Destruction by Fire— Shakespeare's Early Connection with
the Playhouse— James Burbage- Rebuilding of the Globe Theatre— Public and Private Theatres— The Rose Theatre— Ben Jonson-^

CONTENTS.

PAGB

The Hoi^e and Swan Theatres— Paris Garden— Bear-baiting— Prize-fighting— Samuel Pepys' Description of the Sport— John Evel>-n's
ViMt to Bankiide — The " Master of the King's Bears" — Bad Repute of Paris Garden — Visit of Queen Ehzabeth to Paris Garden —
Bear Alley— Public Gardens in Southwark— Baokside at the Time of the Great Fire of London— Dick Tarleton— The " Tumble-
down Dick" — Waterside Public-houses 45

CHAPTER VI.

SOUTHWARK {contirnied).- HIGH STREET, &c.

The Southwark Entrance to London Bridge — The Town Hall— Southwark Fair— Union Hall— Dr. EUiotson— Mint Street— Suffolk House—
Lai.t Street— Charles Dickens's Home when a Boy — The Mint— Great Suffolk Street— The " Moon-rakera" — The Last Barber-
surgeon — Winchester Hall — Finch's Grotto Gardens— The Old Workhouse of Southwark— King's Bench Prison — Major Hanger, Dr.
Syntax, Haydon, and George Moreland, Inmates of the Ring's Bench — The "Marshal" of the King's Bench — Alsager's Bleaching-
ground — Blackman Street — Sir James South — Eliza Cook— Kent Street — A Disreputable Neighbourhood — The Lock Hospital — A
Hard-working Philanthropist — St. George's Church— The Burial-place c{ Bishop Bonner— Marriage of General Monk and Nan Clarges
— The Marshalfea— Anecdotes of Bishop Bonner — Colonel Culpeper — Dickens's Reminiscences of the Marshalsea — The Sign of
"The Hand "—Commercial Aspect of Southwark — Sanitary Condition of Southwark — Appearance of Southwark in the Seventeenth
Century* 57

CHAPTER VII.
SOUTHWARR (co»f^/iu€d).— FAMOUS INXS OF OLDEX TIMES.

Old Inns mentioned by Stow — The "Tabard" — The Abbot of Hide — The "Tabard" as the RendcTVous for Pilgrims — Henry Bailly, the
Hosteller of the "Tabard," and M.P. for Southwark — Description of the old "Tabard" — Change of Name from the "Tabard" to
the "Talbot" — Demolition of the old Inn — Chaucer and the Canterbury Pilgrims — Characters mentioned by Chaucer in the "Canterbury
Tales" — Stow's Definition of "Tabard" — The "George" — The "While Hart" — Jack Cade's sojourn here — The "Boar's Head' —
The "White Lion"— "Henry VIU." a Favourite Sig"— The "Three Brushes"— The " Catherine Wheel "—The " Three Widows "—
The " Old Pick my Toe "—Tokens of Inn-keepers 76

CHAPTER VIII.

SOUTHWARK {continued).— OLD ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL. GUY'S HOSPITAL, &c.

Foundation of St. Thomas's Hospital— A Well-timed Sermon of Bishop Ridley — Purchase of the Old Building by the Citizens of London —
The Lease of the Hospital in Pawn— The Edifice Rebuilt and Enlarged — Description of the Building — Statue of Sir Robert Clayton-
Removal of the Hospital to Lambeth — Value of Land near London Bridge — St. Thomas's Church — Gerard Johnson, the Sculptor of
Shakespeare's Bust— Foundation of Guy's Hospital— Anecdotes of Thomas Guy. the Founder— Description of the Hospital— Statue of
Guy — Medical Staff of the Hospital— London Bridge Railway Terminus--The Greenwich Railway — The South-Easter.i Railway— The
London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway— Watson's Telegraph to the Downs— Southwark Waterworks — Waterworks at Old London
Bridge ^ ^9

CHAPTER IX.

BE R MON DSEY.— TOOLEY STREET, & c.

Derivation of the Name of Bermondsey— General Aspect of the Locality — Duke Street— Tooley Street— St. Olave's Church— Abbots' Inn of
St. Augustine— ScUinger's Wharf— The Inn of the Abbots of Battle — Maze Pond— The House of the Priors of Lewes — St. Olnve's
(^irammar School — Great Fires at the Wharves in Tooley Street--Death of Braidwood, the Fireman--The " Lion and Key"— The
Borough Compter — The "Ship and Shovel" — Carter Lane Meeting House— Dr. Gill and Dr. Rippon —The " Three Tailors of Tooley
Street"- The " Isle of Ducks" — Tunnels under London Bridge Railway Station— Snow's Fields— A Colony of Hatters — Horselydown
— Fair Street— The Birthpbce of Thomas Guy— The Church of St. John the Evangelist — Goat's Yard— Reach's Mccting-housc—
Absence of Singing in Dissenting Meeting-houses two Centuries ago— Queen Elirabcili's Grammar School— A Description of
Horselydown and the adjacent Neighbourhood in Former Times— Dockhead—" Shad Thamcs"—Jacob's Island lOO

CHAPTER X.

BERMONDSEY {fOftri»ued).—TUK ABBEY. &c.

The DiuoUitionof Mon.'Uteriet by Henry VIM. — Eariiest Historical Mention of Bermondsey Abbey— Some Account of the Cluniac Monasteries
in Enghind, and Cuitomi of the Cluniac Order— Grant of the Manor of Bermondsey to Bermondsey Abbey — Queen Kalherlne,
Widow of Henry V., retires hither— Elixabcth Woodville, Widow of Edu'.ird IV., a Prisoner here- Form of Service fox the Rcpo' e of
the SouU of the Queen of Hcnr>' VII. and her Children— Grant of the Monaster>* to Sir Robert SoiiihwcII — Its .S.ilc to Sir Thomas
Pope— Demolition of the Abbey Church— Remains rf the Abbey at the Clone of (he Last Ccnlur>'— Xeckingcr Road— The Church of
St. Mary Magdalen— A Curious Matrimonial Ceremony— An Ancient Salver— TIic R'mkI nf Rcrmond*icv~*"'''anL:e W.ilk and Gr*inge
Road- The Tanning and Leather Tradc.i In Bermondsey—" Simon the Tanupr "— Fcllmonficry — Bermondsey Hide and Skin Market —
Ku4w;ll Street— St. Olave's Union— Bricklavers' Arms Station— Growth nf Modern Bermondsey- Neckinger Mils— The Spa— Births
and Wa sh -hnn w«— Christ Church — Roman Catholic Church of the Most Hnly Trinity, and Convent of the Sisters of Mercy— Jam.Tira
Road— The OM " Jamaica" Tavern— The " Lion and Castle "-Chcrr>* Garden— St. James's Church— Traffic on the Railway near
UcrmonJtcy—McMrs. PccJc, Frean, and Co. 's Biscuit Factory-Blue Anchor Road— Galley Wall • . II7

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XI.

ROTHERHITHE.

PAGE
Derivation of the Name of Rotherhithe— The Place frequently called RedrifT— Knut's Trench— History of the Descent of the Manor-
Traditional Visit of Charles II. to Rotherhithe— Dreadful Fire in Rotherhithe— Condition of Rotherhithe at the Coininencement of the
Present Century— Mill Pond— Vineyards in Rotherhithe— Southwark Park— The "Halfpenny Hatch "—China Hall— The "Dog and
Duck " — St. Mary's Church— Christ Church — All Saints' Church— St. Barnabas Church— The Skeleton of a Giant — Spread of Education
in Rotherhithe and Bermondsey — Noted Residents in Rotherhithe- St. Helena Tea-gardens— The Thames Tunnel— The Commercial
Docks, and the Grand Surrey Canal— Cuckold's Point— The King and the Miller's Wife I^^

CHAPTER XIL

DEPTFORD.

Derivation of the Name of Deptford— Division of the Parish— The River Ravensboume— The Royal Dockyard— Sir Francis Drake's Ship, the
Golden //;«f/— References to Deptford in the Diaries of Evelyn and Pepys— Peter the Great as a Shipwright— Captain Cook's Ships,
the Resolution and the Z^/^tvr'^'r)'— Biography of Samuel Pepys — Closing of the Dockyard— The Foreign Cattle-Market- Saye's
Court — John Evelyn, the Author of "Sylva" — Evelyn at Home— Grinling Gibbons— Removal of Evelyn to Wotton— Saye's Court let
to Admiral Benbow — Peter the Great as a Tenant — Visit of William Penn, the Quaker — Demolition of Saye's Court — Formation of
a Recreation-ground on its Site — The Royal Victoria Victualling Yard — The Corporation of the Trinity House — The Two Hospitals
belonging to the Trinity House — St. Nicholas' Church — St, Paul's Church — The Roman Catholic Church of the Assumption— St. Luke's
Church— The Grand Surrey Canal — Evelyn's Account of the Capture of a Whale at Deptford — Origin of the Sign of the Black Doll . I ^"i.

CHAPTER XHI.

GREENWICH.

Situation and Origin of the Name of Greenwich— Early Histor>' of the Place — I'he Murder of Archbishop Alphege— Encampments of the
Danes— The Manor of Greenwich— The Building of Greenwich Palace, or " Placentia " — Jousts and Tournaments performed herein
the Reign of Edward IV. — Henry VIII. at Greenwich — Festivities held here during this Reign — Birth of Queen Elizabeth — The
Downfall of Anne Boleyn — Marriage of Henry VIII. with Anne of Cleves — Will Sommers, the Court Jester— Queen Elizabeth's
Partiality for Greenwich — The Order of the Garter — The Queen and the Countryman— Maundy Thursday Observances — Personal
Appearance of Queen Elizabeth— Sir Walter Raleigh — Greenwich Palace settled by James I. on his Queen, Anne of Denmark —
Charles I. a Resident here — The Palace during the Commonwealth — Proposals for Rebuilding the Palace — The Foundation of
Greenwich Hospital •I64

CHAPTER XIV.

GREENWICH (continued).— TYiY. HOSPITAL FOR SEAMEN, &c.

Crrenwich Hospital as aMonument to Queen Mary, and of the Victory of La Hogue — Appointment of the Commissioners by William III. —
Sir Christopher Wren's Share in the Building — John Evelyn as Treasurer — Description of the Building- Memorials of Joseph Rene
.j,.Bellot, and the Officers who fell in the Indian Mutiny— The Chapel— The Painted Hall— Nelson's Funeral Car— The Nelson Room —
The Hospital — Sources of its Revenue — The Old Pensioners and their Accommodation— The Royal Naval College— The Naval
Museum — The Nelson and other Relics— The Infirmary for the Pensioners — The Seamen's Hospital — The Dreadnought — The Royal
Naval School — Officers connected with Greenwich Hospital since its establishment— Fund for Disabled Seamen .... 1 1^7

CHAPTER XV.
GREENWICH (continued).— -XYiY. PARISH CHURCH, &c.

Gradual Extension of London— Greenwich as a Parliamentary Borough— The Assizes for Kent formerly held here— The Present Condition
and Population of Greenwich— The Church of St, Alphege- Portraits of Queen Elizabeth, Charles I., Queen Anne, and George I.,
formerly in Greenwich Church— Greenwich one of the Head-quarters of the Huguenot Refugees— The "Spanish Galleon" — Dr.
Johnson a Resident in Greenwich— General Withers and Colonel Disney Residents here— Queen Eli^^abeth's College— The Jubilee
Almshouses— Baths and Wash-houses— The Lecture Hall— The Theatre— Groom's Hill— The Roman Catholic Church— The " New
Church" of St. Mary— Greenwich Market- .Spring Gardens— Lennier's Collection of Pictures— Strange Monsters exhibited here- The
Duke of Norfolk's College— A Remarkable High Tide— Sir John Winter's Project for Charring Sea-coal— The Royal Thames Yacht
Club— The Tilt-Boat— The Admiralty Barge— The Royal State Barge— River-side Hotels— Whitebait Dinners— The Origin of the
Ministerial Fish Dinner— Samuel Rogers and Curran- Charles Dickens at Greenwich— The Touting System— Greenwich Fair . . 190

CHAPTER XVI.

GREENWICH [continued).— 1\\^ PARK, THE ROYAL OBSERVATORY, &-c.

May-day Morning in the Reign of Henry ■VIII.— Historical Reminiscences— The Planting of the Park by Order of Charles II.— Casilc
Hill— Description of the Park— One-Tree Hill — Proposed Monumental Trophy in honour of the Battle of Trafalgar on Castle Hill — The
View from One-Tree Hill— Greenwich Park at F.air-time— The Wilderness— The Ranger's Lodge— The Princess Sophia of Gloucester
a Resident at Montagu House — Chesterfield Walk — The Residence of General Wolfe — Ancient Barrows or Tumuli — Greenwich
Observatory — Appointment of John Flamsteed as First Astronomer-Royal- Flamsteed and Sir Isaac Newton — Dr. Halley — Dr. Bradley
— Dr. Bliss — Dr. Maskelyne— The '* Nautical Almanack" — Mr, John Pond — Sir George Eiddetl Airey — Description of the Observatory
and of the Instruments in Use — The Magnetic Observatory— The Galvanic Clock — Work accomplished at the Observatorj* . . . 206

VI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVII.
BLACKHEATH, CHARLTON, AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

PACE

Situalion and Description of Blackheath— Derivation of its Name — Discovery of Numerous Tumuli — Encampment of the Danish Army — Wat
Tyler's Rebellion — Reception of Richard II. at Blackheath — The Emperor of Constantinople — Reception of Henry V. on his Return
from Agincourt— Other Royal Receptions — Jack Cade and his Followers — Henry VI. and the Duke of York — The Cornish Rebels —
The Smith's Forge — Reception of Cardinal Campegio, and of Bonevet, High Admiral of France — Princess Anne of Cleves — Arrival of
Charles II., on his Restoration — Blackheath Fair — The "Chocolate House" — Present Condition of Blackheath— East Coombe and
West Coom.be — Lavinia Fenton t" Polly Peachum"), T^u chess of Bolton — Woodlands — Montagu House — The Princess Charlotte — Mrs.
Mary Anne Clarke and the Duke of York — Flaxman, the Sculptor — Maize Hill — Vanbrugh Castle — The Mince-pie House — Charlton—
St. Luke's Church — Charlton House — Horn Fair — Shooter's Hill — The Herbert Hospital — Sevemdroog Castle — Morden College—
Kidbrook , . . . 224

CHAPTER XVIII.

ELTKAM, LEE, AND LEWISHAM.

Situation and Derivation cf the Name of Eltham — Descent of the Manor — The Palace — Henry III. keeps his Christmas here — Edward II.
and his Court — John, King of France — Richard II. and Anne of Bohemia — Froissan here presents the King with a Copy of his
Works — Henry IV. and his Court — Royal Christmas Festivities— Eitham Palace abandoned by the Court — The Palace during tha
Civil Wars— Dismantling of the Parks — Description of the Palace — Sale of the Middle Park Stud of Racehorses- Eltham Church-
Well Hall— Lee— Lewisham— Hither Green, Catford, and Ladywell— Loam Pit Hill— New Cross— Royal Naval Schools— Hatcham . 236

CHAPTER XIX.

THE OLD KENT ROAD, &c.

The Course of the Old Watling Street— M. Sorbierre's Visit to London in the Reign of Charles II.— Eve'yn's Account of the Return of
Charles II., on his Restoration— Anecdote of Pitt and Dundas — Mrs. Mapp, the celebrated Bone-setter- Condition of the Old Kent
Road in the List Century — TheLicensed Victuallers' Asylum — The South Metropolitan Gas Works — Christ Church— The Canal Bridge —
Marlborough Chapel — St. Thomas a Watering— Old Taverns and Roadside Inns — The "World Turned Upside Down" — The Deaf
and Dumb Asylum — The New Kent Road — Lock's Fields — Great Dover Street — Trinity Square and Trinity Church — Horsemonger
Lane Gaol— Leigh Hunt a Prisoner there— Execution of the Mannings — The Surrey Sessions' House— Newington Causeway , , . 24S

CHAPTER XX.

NEWINGTON AND WALWORTH.

Etymology of Newington Butts — The " Elephant and Castle" — Joanna Southcott — Singular Discovery of Human Remains — The Drapers'
Almshouses — The Fishmongers* Almshouses — Newington Grammar School — Hospital of Our Lady and St. Catherine — Newington
Theatre — The Semaphore Telegraph — The Metropolitan Tabernacle — Mr. C. H. Spurgeou — Mr. Spurgeons Almshouses and Schools —
St. Mary's Church, Newington — The Old Parish Church — The Graveyard laid out as a Public Garden— The Clock Tower — The Old
Parsonage House — The "Queen's Head" Tea Gardens — .\ Great Flood — An Eminent Optician— The Surrey Zoological Gardens— The
Music Halt— Walworth Road— Carter Street Lecture Hall— The Walworth Literary and Mechanics' Institution — St. Peter's Church —
St. John's Church 255

CHAPTER XXI.

CAMBERWELL.

Antiquity of the Parish— Its Etymology—Its Condition at the Time of the Conquest— Descent of the Manor— Sir Thomas Bond's House —
The Bow)'cr Family— Bowyer Lane, now Wyndham Road— The Royal Flora Gardens — St. (iiles's Church— The Burial-place of Mrs.
Wesley, and of " Equality " Brown — Camden Chapel— St. George's Church — The Vestry Hall— CambcrwcU Green— Camberwell Fair-
Abolition of the Fair, and the Green converted into a Park — The "Father Redcap" — T!ie Old House on the Green— The Green
Coat and National Schools— The Camberwell Free Grammar Scfiool — The Aged Pilgrims' Friend Asylum — Rural Character of Cani-
Ixrrwcll in the Last Century— Myatt's Farm— Cold Harbour Lane— Denmark Hill Grammar School— Grove Hill and Dr. Lett.som's
Residence there- The Story of George Barnwell— Grove Hall— The " Fox-under-thc-Hill "— Old Families of Cambcnvell — Tom Hood a
Resident here— Cambcrwcl! Lunatic Asylum 269

CHAPTER XXII.

PECKHAM AND DULWICIL

Situation of Peclcham— Queen's Road— Albert Road— The Manor House of Pcckham— Hill Street— Shard Squarr and the "Shard Arms" —
Pcckhain House— Old M-insions in Pcckham— Marlborough House— The " Rosemarj' Bianch " — Pcckham Fair— The "Kentish
Dnivers"— Hanover Street- Hanover Chapel— B.uMug Manor— Rye Lane— The Railway Station— The Museum of Fire-arms—
Pcckham Rye— Nunlicad Green- The Asylum of the Mclrnpolltan Beer and Wine Trade Associaliou— Nunhead Cemetery—
Niinhcad Hill— The RrMrvoirs of the Soulhwark and Vauxhall W.itcrworks— Heaton's Folly— Honour Oak— Camberwell Cemetery—
Fricrn Manor Farm- Goow Green— Lordship Line— The " Plough" Inn— The Scenery round Dnlwich— The Haunt of ihe Gipsies—
Vnii of the Court of Charles !. to Dulwich, for the Purpo!(es of Sport— Outrages in Dulwich Wood— The Stocks and Cage at
Dulwich— Tlie "Green Man" Tavern— Bcw's Corner— Dulwich Wells— Dr. Glcmiie's School- Byron a Scholar there— The
"Crown." the "Half Moon," and the "Greyhound " Taverns— The Dulwich Chib— Noted Residents of Dulwich— The Old Manor
House— Edward Alleyn at Home— Dulwich College- Dulwich Pirturcgaller^— The New Schools of Dulwich Collejfe .... 286

CONTENTS. vu

CHAPTER XXIII.

SYDENHAM, NORWOOD, AND STREATHAM. ^^^^

Situ,ition of Sydenham-Its Rapid Growth as a Place of Residence-Sydenham Wdls-The Poet Campbell-Death of Thomas Dermody-
Thomas Hill-Churches at Sydenham— Rockhill-bir Joseph Paxton— The CrysUl Palace— Anerley- Norwood— The Home of the
Gipsies— Knight's Hill— Beulah Spa-North Surrey District Schools— The Catholic Bemale Orphanage-The Jews' Hospital— Norwood
Cemetery— Ihe Royal Normal College and Academy of Music for the Blind— Death of the Earl of Dadlcy—Strealham— Mineral Springs
— Anecdote of Lord Thurlow— The Residence of Mrs. Thrale at Strealham— The Magdalen Hospital 303

CHAPTER XXIV.

BRIXTON AND CLAPHAM.

The Royal Asylum of St. Ann's Society— The Female Convict Prison, Brixton— Clapham Park— Etymology of Clapham— Clapham Common—
The Home of Thomas Babington Macaulay— The Old Manor House— The Residence of Sir Dennis Gauden— Pepys a Resident here—
Death of Samuel Pepys— The Residence of the Eccentric Henry Cavendish— The Beautiful Mrs. Baldwin— The Home of the Wilber-
forces-Henry Thornton— The Parish Church— St. Paul's Church— St. John's Church— St. Saviour's Chnrch-The Congregational
Chapel, and the Roman Catholic Redemptorist Church and College— Nonconformity at Clapham— The " Clapham Sect "—Lord Teign-
mouth's House— Nightingale Lane-The Residence of Mr, C. H. Spurgeon— The "Plough" Inn— The "Bedford" Arms— Clapham
Rise— Young Ladies' Schools— The British Orphan Asylum— The British Home for Incurables— Clapham Road 319

CHAPTER XXV.

STOCKWELL AND KENNINGTON.

Etymology of Stockwell— Its Rustic Retirement Half a Century ago— The Green— Meeting of the Albion Archers— The Stockwell Ghost-
Old House in which Lord Cromwell is said to have lived— St. Andrew's Church— Small-pox and Fever Hospital— Mr. John Angell's
Bequest— Trinity Asylum— Stockwell Orphanage— Mr. Alfred Forrester— Kennington Manor— Death of Hardicanute— Kennington a
Favourite Residence of the Black Prince— Masques and Pageants— Isabella, the " Little Queen" of Richard II.— The Last of the Old
Manor House —Cumberland Row — Caron House— Kennington Oval— Beaufoy's Vinegar Distillery — The Tradescants— Kennington
Common — Execution of the Scottish Rebels — "Jemmy" Dawson— jNIeeting of the Chartists in 1848- Large Multitudes addressed by
■Whitefield- The Common converted into a Park— St. Mark's Church— "The Horns" Tavern— Lambeth Waterworks—The Licensed
Victuallers' School ... 3-7

CHAPTER XXVI.

ST. GEORGE'S FIELDS.

St. George's Fields in the Time of the Roman Occupation— Canute's Trench— Charles II. entertained at St. George's Fields on his Restora-
tion—The Populace resort hither during the Great Fire— The Character of St. George's Fields in the Last Century— The Apollo ,
Gardens— The "Dog and Duck " Tavern— St. George's Spa— A Curious Exhibition— The Wilkes' Riots— The Gordon Riots— Death
of Lord George Gordon— Gradual Advance of Building in St. George's Fields— The Magdalen Hospital— Peabody Buildings— The
Asylum for Female Orphans— The Philanthropic Society— The School for the Indigent Blind- The Obelisk ...... 341

CHAPTER XXVII.

ST. GEORGES FIELDS {continued).— BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL, &c.

The Priory of the Star of Bethlehem — Its Conversion into a Hospital for Lunatics—" Tom o' Bedlams " — Purchase of the Site for a New
Hospital in St. George's Fields — Public Subscription to raise Funds for its Erection — Sign of the Old " Dog and Duck ' — The
New Hospital described — Gibber's Statues of "Melancholy and Raving Madness " — The Air of Refinement and Taste in the Appearance
ot the Female Wards — Viscomte d'Arlingcourt's Visit to Bedlam — Gray's Lines on Madness — The Ball-room — The Billiard-room —
The Dining-room — The Chapel — The Infirmary Ward — .\ Picture of the " Good Samaritan," painted by one of the Inmates — The
Council Chamber — The Men's Wards — A Sad Love Story — General Particulars of the Hospital, and Mode of Admission of Patients —
King Edward's School — Christ Church, Westminster Bridge Road — St. George's Roman Catholic Cathedral — The School for the
Indigent Blmd — The British and Foreign School Society, Borough Road 351

CHAPTER XXVIII.

BLACKFRIARS ROAD.— THE SURREY THEATRE, SURREY CHAPEL. &c.

Formation of Elackfnars Road — The Surrey Theatre, originally the "Royal Circus and Equestrian Philharmonic Academy" — The Circus
burnt down in 1805 — The Amphitheatre rebuilt, and under the Management of Elliston — The Manager in a Fix — The Theatre
burnt down in 1865, and rebuilt the same year — Lord Camelford and a Drunken Naval Lieutenant— The *' Equestrian " Tavern — A
Favourite Locahty for Actors— An Licident in Charles Dickens's Boyhood— The Temperance Hall — The South London Working Men's
College — The South London Tramway Company — The Mission College of St Alphege — Nelson Square — The " Dog's Head in the
Pot" — Surrey Chapel — The Rev. Rowland Hill — Almshouses founded by him — Paris Garden — Christ Church— Stamford Street — The
Unitarian Chapel — Messrs. Clowes' Printing; Office— Hospital for Diseases of the Skin—The "Haunted Houses " of Stamford Street—
Ashton Levers Museum— The Rotunda~Thc Albion Mills 368

viil CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXIX.

LAMBETH.

JPsrochialDivisionof Lambeth— The Early History of the Parish— Descent of the Manor— Appearance of Lambeth in the time of Charles 11. —
Lambeth in the Last Century, as viewed from the Adelphi — The Romance of Lambeth — Lady Arabella Stuart a Prisoner here — Morland,
the famous Mechanist — John Wesley preacher here — Pepys' Visits to Lambeth— Messrs. Searle's Boat-building Establishment —
Lambeth Marsh— Narrow Wall and Broad Wall— Pedlar "s Acre— The " Duke of Bolton," Governor of Lambeth Marsh— Belvedere
Road — Belvedere House and Gardens — Cuper's Gardens— Cumberland Gardens— The "Hercules" Inn and Gardens— The Apollo
Gardens— Flora Gardens — Lambeth Fields — Lambeth Wells — Outdoor Diversion in the Olden Time — Taverns and Public-houses — The
"Three Merr^' Boys" — The "Three Squirrels" — The " Chequers "^The "Three Goats' Heads" — The "Axe and Cleaver" — The
Halfpenny Hatch 3S3

CHAPTER XXX.

LAMBETH {con^iuued),~THE TR.\NSPONTINE THEATRES.

The Morality of the Transpontine Theatres — The building of the Coburg Theatre— Its Name changed to the Victoria- Vicissitudes of the
Theatre — The Last Night of the Old Victoria — The Theatre altered and re-opened as the Royal Victoria Palace Theatre— A Romantic
Story — Origin of Astley's Amphitheatre — Biographical Sketch of Philip Astley— His Riding School near the Halfpenny Hatch — He
builds a Riding School near W'estminster Bridge — The Edifice altered, and called the Royal Grove — Destruction of the Royal Grove by
Fire — The Theatre rebuilt and opened as the Amphitheatre of Arts — The Theatre a second time destroyed by Fire^Again rebuilt, and
called the Royal Amphitheatre- Astley and his Musicians — Death of Mr. Astley— The Theatre under the Management of Mr. Vv.
Davis — Ducrow and West — Description of the Theatre — Dickens's Account of " Astley's " — The third Theatre burnt down — Death of
Ducrow- The Theatre rebuilt by Batty— lis subsequent Hislorj-— Its Name altered to Sanger's Grand National Auiphitheatre _ , ^53

CHAPTER XXXI.

L.-\MBETH {confi;!Ufd).~\\\\TEKLOO ROAD, &c.

Ecclesiastical Divisions of the Parish of Lambeth— The Lambeth Water-works— The Shot Factory— Belvedere Road— Royal Infirmary for
Children and Women— The General Lying-in Hospital— St. John's Church— The Grave of Elliston— The South-Western Railway
Terminus— The New Cut— Sunday Trading— The Victoria Palace Theatre — Dominic Serres— St. Thomas's Church — Lambeth Marsh-
Bishop Bomier's House— Erasmus King's Museum— The " Spanish Patriot "—All Saints' Chuich— The Canterbury Hall— The Bower
Saloon— Siangate — "Old Grimaldi " — Carlisle House— Norfolk House — Old Mill at Lambeth— The London Necropolis Company —
St. Thomas's Hospiul— The Albert Embankment— Inundations in Lambeth— Lambeth Potteries and Glass Works— Schools of Art-
Manufactures of Lambeth ^07

CHAPTER XXXII.

LAMBETH PALACE.

History of t'*^ Foundation of Lambeth Palace— Successive Additions and Alterations in the Building— Fate of the Palace during the Time
of the Commonwealth — The Great Gateway— The Hall— Hospitality of the Archbishops in Former Times — The Library and Manuscript
Room — The Guard Chamber — The Gallery — The Post-room— The Chapel— Desecration of the Chapel— Archbishop Parker's Tomb —
The Lollards' Tower— The Gardens— Bishops' Walk -Remarkable Historical Occurrences at Lambeth Palace— The Palace attacked
bv the Insurgents under Wat Tyler— Queen Mary and Cardinal Pole— Queen Elizabeth and Archbishop Parker— The "Lambeth
Articles" — The Archbishop's Dole — The Palace attacked by a London Mob in 1641 — Translation of Archbishop Sheldon— The
Cordon Riots— The Pan Anglican Synod— The Arches Court of Canterbur>*— The Annual Visit of the Stationers' Company— Lambeth
Degrees— St. Mar>''s Church— Curious Items in the Parish Registers— The Tomb of the Tradescanls 426

C HAPTKR XXXI I I.

\'AUXHALL.

rirst recorded Noticeof the Gardens— The Place originally known as the Spring Gardens— Evelyn's Visit to Sir Samuel Morland's House-
Visit of Samuel Pepys to the Spring Gardens— Addison's Account of the Visit of Sir Roger de Covcrley lo Vauxliall— The Old M;msion
of Copped Hall— Description of Sir Samuel Moriand's House and Grounds— The Place taken by Jonathan Tyers, and o|)encd for Public
Entertainment— Koubiliac's Statue of H.-indcl- Reference to Vauxhall in Boswell's "Life of Johnson"- How Hogarth became
connected with Vauxhall Gardens-A ^/<^//o ai /■r«c/»" Character of the Entertainments at Vauxhall a Century ago— Character of
the Company frequenting the Gardens— A Description of the G.irdens as they appe.ired in the Middle of the Last Century- How Horace
Walpole and his Friends visited Vauxhall, and minced Chickens in a China Dish— Byron's Description of a Hidotto a £ Fresco—
Fielding's Account of Vauxhall- Sunday Morning Visitors to Vauxhall- Vauxhall in the Height of its Glory— Goldsmith's Description
of a Visit- Sir John Dincty and other Aristocratic Visitors— How Jos Scdley drank Rack Punch at Vau.vhall— Wellington witnessing
the Baltic of Waterloo over again- The Gardens in the Last of their Glory— Hayman's PIctvirc of the " Milkmaids on Mayday"—
Lines on Vauxhall, by Ned Ward the Voupgcr— Balloon Ascents— Narrpw Escape of "the Gardens from Destruction by Fire— Closing of
the Gardens, and Sale of the Property 447

CliAPTER XXXIV.

V.XUXHALL (continued) AND BATTERSEA.

BoatracinK al Vauxhall— Fortiriulions erected here in 1643— A Proposed Iloulcvard— The Marquis of Worcester, Author of the " Cenlui-v
of Inventions "—The Woikj of the London (ias Company— Nine Kims — Messrs. Price's Candle F.ictory— Inns and Taverns— Orit-in
of the Name of Ilattcrsea— Descent of the Manor of Uattersca— Holinghrokc House — A Curituis Air-mill— Reminiscences of Henry St.
John, Lord Bvling'jroke— Sir William liaiten— York Mouse-Tlie Parish Church of Eattcrsea— Christ Chunh— St. Mark's Church— St.

COiN TENTS. ix

PACE

C5«orge's Church— The National School— St. John's College— The Royal Freemasons' Girls' School— The "Falcon" Tavern— The
Victoria Bridge— Albert Bridge— The i;ld Ferry— Building of Battersea Bridge— Battersea Fields— The " Red House "-Caesar's Ford
— Ealtersea Parle and Gardens— Model Dwellings for Artisans and Labourers— Southwark and Vauxhall Waterworks— Market Gardens
— Battersea Enamelled Ware— How Battersea became the Cradle of Bottled Ale 467

CHAPTER XXXV.

WA.NDSWORTH.

The River Wandle— Manufactories— French Refugees— The Frying-pan Houses— High Street— St. Peter's Hospital— The Union Work-
house- -The Royal Patriotic Asylum— The Surrey County Prison— The Craig Telescope— The Surrey Lunatic Asylum— The Friendless
Boys' Home— The Surrey Industrial School— The Surrey Iron Tramwaj — Claphjm Junction— Wandsworth Bridge— All Saints'
Church— St. Anne's Church— St Mary's, St. John's, and Holy Trinity Churches— Nonconformity at Wandsworth— Francis Grose the
Antiquary. Bishop Jebb, and Voltaire Residents here- Mock Elections of the " Mayors of Garratt "—Wandsworth Fair— Horticulture
and Floriculture 4J'9

CHAPTER XXXVI.

PUTNEY.

The Fishery which formerly existed here— Putney Ferry — High Street— Fairfax House — Chatfield House— The "Palace"— The Bridge oi
Boats— Putney House — The Almshouses — The Watermen's School — Cromwell Place— Grove House — D'Israeli Road — Nicholas West
Bishop of Ely~Wolsey's Secretary. Cromwell— An Incident in the Life of Wolsey— Bishop Bonner's House — Essex House— Lime
Grove — The Residence of Edward Gibbon, the Historian — David IMallet, the Scotch Poet — John Tolland and Theodore Hook Residents
here — Mrs. Shelley — Putney School — Douglas Jerrold — Bowling-Green House — Death of William Pitt — The Residence of Mrs. Siddons
— James Macpherson— The Fire-proof House, and the Obelisk— The Royal Hospital for Incurables— Putney Heath— Celebrated Duels
fought here — Duel between the Duke of Buckingham and the Earl of Shrewsbury at Barn-elms — Reviews on Putney Heath — Putney
Park — Wimbledon Common— The Meetings of the Rifle Volunteers — The Oxford and Cambridge Eoat-races—Evelyn's Visits to Putney
—Putney Church— The Residence of Gibbons' Grandfather-Putney Bridge— The Aqueduct of the Chelsea Waterworks . . 4S9

CHAPTER XXXVII.

FULH.'\M.

Probable Derivation of the Name of Fulham— Boundaries of the Parish— The High Street— Egmont Villa, the Residence of Theodore
Hook— Anecdotes of Hook— All Saints' Church— Fulham Bells— Sir William Powell's Almshouses— Bishop's Walk— Fulham Palace—
The Gardens— A Bishop's Success in a Competition for Lying— The Manor of Fulham— Bishops Bonner, Aylmer, Bancroft, and
Juxon — The Moat— Craven Cottage— Jew King, the Money-lender — The " Crab Tree " — The Earl of Cholmondeley's Villa— Fulham
Cemetery— The "Golden Lion"— The Old Workhouse— Fulham at the Commencement of the Last Century— Fulham Road, Past
and Present— Holcrofts Hall— Holcrofts Priory— Claybrooke House— The Orphanage Home— Fulham Almshouses— Burlington
House— The Reformatory School for Females— Munster House— Fulham Lodge— Percy Cross— Ravensworth House— Walham Lodge
— Dungannon House and Albany Lodge— Arundel House— Sad Fate of a Highwayman— Park House— Rosamond's Bower— Parson's
Green- Samuel Richardson, the Author of " Pamela," &c.— East-end House— Mrs. Fitzherbert and Madame Piccolomini Residents
here— Sir Thomas Bodley— Eelbrook Common— Peterborough House— Ivy Cottage- Fulham Charity Schools— The Potterj— A
Tapestry Manufactory — A Veritable Centenarian ... cqa

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

FULHAM {coniifiiied).~W ALU AM GREEN AND NORTH END.

Vine Cottnge — The Prj'or's Bank— The " Swan " Tavern — Stourton House— Ranelagh House — Hurlingham — Broom House- Sandy End —
Sandford Manor House, the Residence of Nel' Gwynne, and of Joseph Addison— St. James's, Moore Park — Walham Green— St.
John's Church — The Butchers' Almshouses — A Poetic Gardener — North End — Browne's House — North End Lodge— Jacob Tonson
— North End Road— Beaufort House — Lillie Bridge Running-ground — The Residence of Foote, the Dramatist — The Hermitage — The
Residence of Bartolozzi — Normand House — Wentworth Cottage — Fulham Fields — Walnut-tree Cottage — St. Saviour's Convalescent
Hospital— The Residence of Dr. Crotch— Samuel Richardson's House— Other Noted Residents at Fulham C21

CHAPTER XXXIX.

HAMMERSMITH.

Ecclesiastical Division of Hammersmith from Fulham— The Principal Streets and Thoroughfares — The Railway Stations — The " Bell and
Anchor" Tavern — The " Red Cow " — Nazareth House, the Home of "The Little Sisters of the Poor"— The Old Benedictine Convent,
now a Training Collene for the Priesthood^Dr. Bonaventura Giffard — The West London Hospital — The Broadway — Brook Green — The
Church of the Holy Trinity— St. Joseph's Almshouses— St. Mary's Normal College — Roman Catholic Reformatories — BIythe House —
Market Gardens— Messrs. Lee's Nursery--The Church of St. John the Evangelist, in Dartmouth Road— Godolphin School— Ravens-
court Park - The Ancient Manor House of Pallenswick— Starch Green— The Old London Road— A Quaint Old Pump — Queen Street —
The Parish Church— The Monument of Sir Nicholas Crispe— The Enshrined Heart of Sir Nicholas Crispe— The Impostor, John
Tuck — Latymer Schools— The Convent of the Good Shepherd — Susse.x Hou=e — Brandenburgh House— George Bubb Dodington —
The Margravine of Brandenburgh-Anspach — The Funeral of Queen Caroline— Hammersmith Suspension Bridge — Hammersmith Mall
— The High Bridge— The "Dove"' Coffee-house, and Thomson the Poet — Sir Samuel Morland — The Upper Mall — Catharine, Queen
of Charles II.— Dr. Radcliffe— Arthur Murphy— De Loutherbourg— Other Eminent Residents— Leigh Hunt— St. Peter's Church— A
Public- spirited Artist— The Hammersmith Ghost 529

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XL.
CHISWICK.

PAGE

l!^rliest Historical Records of Chtswick— Sutton Manor— Chiswick Eyot— The Parish Church— Holland, the Actor— Ugo Foscolo— De
Loutherbourg — Kent, the Father of Modem Gardening — Sharp, the Engraver — Lady Thornhill — Hogarth's Monument — A Curious
Inscription — Extracts from the Churchwardens' Books — Hogarth's House — Hogarth's Chair — The "Griffin" Brewery — Chiswick
Mall— The " Red Lion " — The " White Bear and Whetstone " — The College House— Whittingham's Printing-press- Barbara, Duchess
of Cleveland— Dr. Rose and Dr. Ralph — Edward Moore, the Journalist — Alexander Pope's Residence — The Old Manor House —
Tumham Green — Encampment of the Parliamentarians during the Civil Wars — The Old '* Pack Horse " Inn^The Chiswick Nurserj-—
Chiswick House — Description of the Gardens — The Pictures and Articles of I'frin — Royal Visits — Death of Charles James Fox and
George Canning— Garden Parties — Comey House — Sir Stephen Fox's House — The Gardens of the Royal Horticultural Society . . caq

CHAPTER XLI.

GENERAL REMARKS AND CONCLUSION.

A General View of London— Length of its Streets, and Number of Dwellings— Growth of London since the Time of Henry VIII. — The
Population at Various Periods since 1687 — The Population of London compared with that of other Cities — Recent Alterations and
Improvements in the Streets of London— The Food and Water Supply — Removal of Sewage— The Mud and Dust of London — Churches
and Hospitals — Places of Amuseinent — Fondness of Londoners for London — Concluding Ohsenations ....... i;57

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Froiii
Soiithwark

Kennington Common and Church

St. Thomas's Hospital; St. Saviour's,

Lambeth Palace ......

South End of Old London Bridge, with Shot Towe

and St. Olave's Church, in 1S20 ...
The Bridge-foot, Southwark, in 1810
Priory of St. IVIary Overy, 1700
Old Houses formerly at Banksidc
Interior of St. Saviour's Church ...

Views of St. Saviour's Church ....

Consistory Court, St. Saviour's Church, 1S20
John Cower .......

Tomb of John Gower in St. Saviour's Church .
View of St. Mary Overy, 1647 ....

Winchester House, 1660 ....

Hall of Winchester House, 1647

Mrs. Thrale

Barclay's Brewery, 1829 .....
Plan of Bankside, early in the Seventeenth Century
The Globe Theatre, temp. Elizabeth .
Ben Jonson .......

Map of Southwark, 1720

The Borough High Street in 1825

Southwark Fair

The Mint, Southwark, in 1825 ....
The King's Bench, Southwark, in 1830
The Marshalsea Prison in the Eighteenth Century
The Marshalsea in 1790 .....
The Old "Tabard" Inn, in the .Seventeenth Century
The Old " Tabard " Inn, shortly before its demolition
Geoffrey Chaucer

1870-1SS0
1820

Inn, J870-18S0
S40

Old Inns in Southwark,

Boar's Head Courtyard,

The Old " White Hart "

.St. Thom.as's Hospital, :

Guy's Hospital .... . '

Folly Ditch, Jacob's Island

The Great Fire at Cotton's Wharf, Tooley

St. Olave's Church, in 1S20

The Grammar School of St. Olave's, iSio

Millpond Bridge, in 1826 .

Hall of the Southwark "Train-Bands," in 181 J

Old Houses in London Street, Dockhead, about

Bermondsey Abbey, 1790

St. Mary Magdalen's Church, Bermondsey, 1809

Bridge and Turnpike in the Grange Road, about 1820

Garden Front of Jamaica House, 1826

Cherry Garden Street, with Jamaica House, 1826

St. James's Church, Bermondsey

Rotherhithe Church, 1750 ....

Diving Bell used in Constructing the Thames Tunnel

treet. 1S6

1810

r,\GE
'ispiece

6

7
12

13
18

19

24
25
26

30
31
33

36
37
42

43
48

49
54
S5
60
61
66
67
72
73
78
79
84

SS
90

91
96

97
102
103
109
114

"5
120
121
126
127
127
132
'33
138

ewl i>r Seventeenth

1850
1810

1790

Floating Dock.Deptford, 1S20
The Royal Dock, Deptford,
Century ....
Samuel Pepys ....
Peter the Great's House at Deptford
The Royal Dockyard, Deptford, in
Deptford Creek ....
Deptford and Greenwich, in 1815
St. Nicholas Church, Deptford, in
John Evelyn .....
Placentia, 1560 .....
Old Conduit, Greenwich Park, in 1835
Old Palace of Greenwich, in 1630
A View of the Ancient Royal Palace, called PI.
Greenwich Hospital, from the River .
The Painted Hall, Greenwich Hospital
Old View of Greenwich Palace .
Group of Greenwich Pensioners, 1868
The Royal Naval .School, Greenwich, 1830
The Parish Church, Greenwicli .
The Duke of Norfolk's Almshouses, in 1796
"Crown and Sceptre" Inn, Greenwich
Easter Monday in Greenwich Park
Lane Leading into Ship Street, Greenwich,
View from One - Tree Hill, Greenwich

PAGrt

"39

830
Par

View in Greenwich Park ....
Houses Round Greenwich Park .
Flamsteed House .....

The Magnetic Clock, Greenwich Observatory
The Great Equatorial Telescope in the Dome,

wich Observatory
West Coombe, in 1794
The "Green Man," Blackhe.ath .
Vanbrugh Castle ....
Charlton House, in 1845
Eltham P.alace, in 1790
Hall of Eltham Palace, in 1S35 .
Lee Church, in 1795 • • • •
The Royal Naval School, New Cross
The Licensed Victuallers' Asylum, 1880
The Telegraph Tower, in 1810 .
Newington Butts, in 1820 .
The Fishmongers' Almshouses, in 1850
Fountain in the Surrey Gardens .
Old Newington Church, in 1866
The Music Hall, Surrey Gardens, 1858
View in the Surrey Gardens, 1850
Old Camberwell Church, in 1750
Bowyer House .....
Old Camberwell Mill

XII

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Old House on Cambenvell Green

Dr. Lettsom's House, Grove Ilill

Grove Lane, Camberwell .

The " Rosemary Branch," In iSoo .

" Heaton's Folly," in 1S04

Dr. Glennie's Academy, Dulwich Grove, in 1820

Views in Camberwell and Dulwich

Dulwich College, in 1790 ....

Dulwich College, in 1750 ....

Sydenham Wells, in 1750 ....

Site of the Crystal Palace, in 1S52 '.

The Crystal Palace, from the South .

Margaret Finch's Cottage, Norwood,, in iSoS

Lord Thurlow's House, Knight's Hill

Mrs. Thrale's House, Streatham

ViewofClapham, in 1790

Old Clapham Church, in 1750 .

Views in Old Stockwell ....

Kennington, from the Green, 1780

The Chartist Meeting on Kennington Common, 1S4S

Tradescant's House, South Lambeth .

The "Horns" Tavern, Kennington, in 1820

The Freemasons' Charity School, St. George's Field:

in 1800

Old Sign of the " Dog and Duck " .
The Obelisk in St. George's Circus, 1S74 .

Bethlehem Hospital

" Melancholy and Raving Madness" .
A Ward in Bethlehem Hospital .
King Edward's School ....
Christ Church, Westminster Road

The Surrey Theatre

Rowland Hill's Chapel, in 1S14.

Rowland Hill

Interior of the Rotunda, Blackfriars Road, in

1820

The South Side of the Thames, taken from Adelp

Terrace ......

Searle's Boat-yard, in 1830.

The Pedlar and his Dog, from Lambelh Cliurcli

Old Windmills at Lambeth, about 1750

Old Views in Lambeth ....

The Old "Coburg" Theatre, in 1820.
Astlcy's Riding School, in 1770 .
Entrance to Astley's Theatre, in 1820.
Interior of Astley's Amphitheatre, in 1843.
The Houses in Waterloo Bridge Road
View in the New Cut ....

Bishop Bonner's House, in 1 780

Drug Mill of the Apothecaries' Company .

The Chevalier D'Eon ....

.St. Thomas's Hospital ....

The Entrance Hall, St. Thomas's Hospital
I..iml>clh Palace, from Millbank, in i860 .
'.a.mliclli Palace, from the River, 1709

PACK
277
2S2
283
28S
2S9
294

295
300
301
306

312

3'3
318
319
324
325
330
331
336
337
342

343
344
349
354
355
360

361
367
372
373
37S

379

3S4
3S5
388

390
391
396
397
402

403
40S
409
414

415
41S
420
421
426
427

The Lollards' Tower, Lambeth Palace

The Chamber in Lambelh Palace in which the Lollards

were Confmed .....
Interior of the Great Hall, Lambeth Palace, 1 800
Lambeth Palace, 1875 ....

Old Whitehall Stairs

Lambeth Church, 1825 ....

The Old M.anor-hou3e at Vauxhall, about iSoo

Views in Vauxhall Gardens

The Old Village of Vauxhall, with Entrance to the

Gardens, in 1825 ....

The Italian Walk, Vauxhall Gardens .
Chinese Pavilion in Vauxhall Gardens
Balloon Ascent at Vauxhall Gardens, 1849 .
Old Battersea .Mill, about 1800 .

York House, 1790

Old Battersea Church, 1790

The Tropical Gardens, Battersea Park

The Lake, Battersea Park ....

Wandsworth, in 1790 ....

Lines of Rail at Clapham Junction

The Fishmongers' Almshouses, Wandsworth

The Garratt Election

Putney House, 1810

Lime Grove, Putney, in iSio

Fairfax House, Putney ....

Bowling-green House ....

In and About Putney ....

Essex House, Putney .....

Old Putney Bridge, 1S80 ....

Fulham Church, in 1S25 ....

The Moat, Fulham Palace ....

Fulham Palace, in 1798 ....

Holcrofts and the Priory, Fulham

Richardson's House at Parson's Green, 1799

Peterborough House .....

Nell Gwynne's House ....

In and About Fulham ....

Ranelagh House .....

The " Red Cow" Inn, Hammersmith, i860

The Convent, Hammersmith, in iSoo

The River Front of Hammersmith, from the Eyot at

Chiswick to the Bridge, iSoo
TIanmicrsmith Parish Church, in 1820
lirandenburgh House, in 1815 .
Hammersmith, in 1746 ....

The Old " Pack Horse" Inn, Turnham Green
Hammersmith Mall, in 1800
Old Cottages on Back Common .
Hogarth's House .....

Entrance lo Chiswick ....

At Chiswick ......

Chiswick House, in 1763 ....

Corney House, in 1760 ....

Chiswick Mall, in 1820 ....

S'5'5a.viour,.

•SouxawAiy;

LONDON,

THE SOUTHERN SUBURBS.

CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY. -SOUTHWARK.

Superat pars altera curac."

Introductory Remarks— Geological Observations— Earliest Mention
of iouthwark in Histury— Its Etymology— Southwark as a
Roman Settlement— Old London Bridge— Knut's Trench-
Reception of William the Conqueror by the Natives of South-
wark—The Civic Government of Southwark— Its Annexation to
the City— An Icelander's Account of Old London Bridge— The
Story of Olafs Destruction of the Bridge— Hymn sung on the
Festival of St. Clave.

HAVING now completed our survey of the
West End and of the northern suburbs of
London, it will be necessary for us again to
take in hand our pilgrim staff, and to make a
fresh start, with a view of reconnoitring that
large and interesting district which, though it
lies on the soutliem bank of the Thames,
forms, and has formed for centuries, an integral
part of this great metropolis. We will there-
fore do so without further delay, and only ask
our readers to accompany us mentally to

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

London Bridge, from the south end of which it is
our purpose to commence our peregrinations, which
in this, the concluding volume of the work, will be
mainly confined to the metropolitan and strictly
suburban districts in the county of Surrey ; for we
have not forgotten the promise with which we set
out on our wanderings, to confine ourselves to
those regions, be they greater or smaller in extent,
from which can be seen "the glimmer of the
gilded cross of St. Paul's."

The district which we are about to traverse,
though not equal in its reminiscences to the City
of Westminster, will be found on examination to
be full of antiquarian interest. In St. Saviour's
Priorj- Church, in Berniondsey Abbey, in, the old
" Tabard " Inn, in the Globe and other tlieatres on
Bankside, in tlie archiepiscopal palace at Lambeth,
in the once royal palace at Kennington, in the
Mint and the old Marshalsea, we shall find a
rich mine of archaeological wealth, and one which
it will take a long time to exhaust. At Deptford
we shall again meet with our old friends, Samuel
Pepys and John Evelyn ; at Greenwich we shall
see our Tudor kings and queens in the midst of a
splendid court ; on Blackheath we shall meet Wat
Tyler and his rebel bands; at Newington Butts
we shall witness the cavalcade of the Canterbury
Pilgrims, as they wend their way along the old
road into Kent ; at Kennington we shall find the
Black Prince " at home," and perhaps witness the
execution of some of the Scottish rebels ; at
Dulwich and Camberwell we shall drop in and
make the acquaintance of Edmund Alleyn, the
" player " and friend of a certain " Will Shake-
speare ; " while a little nearer home, at Stockwell,
we shall find a veritable " Ghost," scarcely in-
ferior to its rival of Cock Lane ; at Clapham we
sliall find Mr. Wilberforce and the Evangelicals
busy in founding the Bible Society; in St. (Jeorge's
Fields we sliall spend a day with the inmates of
New Bedlam, and try to cheer them with our
presence ; and tlien mentally transport ourselves to
the same spot in the days of Lord George Gordon
and his riots, to witness their bonfires. We shall
"assist" at the founding and opening of the Surrey
and Victoria Theatres, and take our stand by the
side of Mr. Astley when, supported by Ducrow, he
first encloses his riding-school. We shall peep in
and hear a sermon from Rowland Hill, in hi?
well-known chapel in the Surrey Road ; spend an
evening in the Surrey Zoological (hardens ; and
then look in at I^ambeth Palace, to witness the
records of the " Lollard " prisoners, and make
acquaintance with Archbishops Chicheley, and
Cranmer, and Parker, and Laud. Thence, having

glanced in at the Museum of the Tradescants, we
shall make our way to Faux or Vaux Hall, and
take a view of the old place before it was turned
into " Gardens." Thence we shall walk on to
Battersea, and shake hands with Lord Bolingbroke
before he goes forth into exile, and reconnoitre
sundry clusters of old houses, both in that village
and in Wandsworth and Putney. There we shall
try and arrange our visit so as to come in for the
annual contest between Oxford and Cambridge
for the blue riband of the London waters; then,
crossing the river, we shall make a halt at Fulham
in order to investigate at leisure the mansion which
for so many centuries has been the residence of
successive Bishops of London. Turning then back,
in a north-westerly direction, it is our intention to
make a perambulation of Hammersmith, so rich in
literary and religious associations, and we shall
conclude our wanderings with a brief visit to the
grave of Hogarth, the painter and moralist, in
Chiswick churchyard.

It is just possible, indeed, that we may be led to
go even a little farther afield in search of subjects of
interest, past and present ; but if such should prove
to be the case, we shall not forget that it is London
and London life with which we have to deal, and
that where London has extended its social life into
the suburbs we must follow it up. At all events,
we shall take good care not to leave any street or
any house unexplored which can have an interest
for the readers of "Old and New London."

With these few words of preface, we will com-
mence our journey at the point where London
Bridge abuts on the east end of the " Ladye "
Chapel of St. Saviour's. And here we cannot do
better than repeat the words which we employed
on first starting from Temple Bar : *— " South-
wark, a Roman station and cemetery, is by no
means without a history. It was burnt by William
the Conqueror, and had been the scene of a battle
against the Danes. It possessed palaces, monas-
teries, a mint, and fortifications. The Bisliops of
Winchester and Rochester once lived here in
splendour, and the locality boasted its four Eliza-
bethan theatres. The ' Globe ' was Shakespeare's
summer theatre, and here it was that his greatest
triumphs were attained. What was acted there is
best told by making Shakespeare's share in the
i 'iianagement distinctly understood ; nor can we
leave Southwark without visiting the ' Tabard ' inn,
from whence Ciiaucer's nine-and-twenty jovial
pilgrims set out for Canterbury —

' The liolye blissful m.irlyr for lo seek.'"

See Vol. I., p. 9.

Southwark.]

ORIGIN OF THE NAME OF SOUTHWARK.

Hitherto, as our readers are aware, we have been
concerned with those portions of our great metro-
polis which lie to the north of the Thames, and
within the boundaries of the county of Middlesex ;
but the moment that we cross London Bridge we
find ourselves in another county — that of Surrey —
so called from South-rey — i.e., the south side of
the river.

If we were to travel far into the interior of this
county we should come upon scenes very unlike
what we have seen in Middlesex ; but the limits of
our present pilgrimage will scarcely carry us so far
afield as to the borders of the chalk formation
which fringes the basin of clay and gravel which
underlies the whole of London south, as well as
London north, of the Thames.

There was a time, some two thousand years ago,
when the whole of the district now covered by
Southwark and Lambetli, and most of the adja-
cent district, as far south as the rising grounds of
Brixton, Streatham, and Clapham, was little more
than a dull and dreary swamp, inhabited by the
bittern and the frog, and when painted savages
roamed and prowled about the places which are
now not only busy thoroughfares, but the marts of
foreign commerce. But this change was the work
of very many ages.

In the early Saxon times there is no notice of
any large town being situated here ; but a tradition
of Bartholomew Linsted, or Fowle, the last prior of
St. Mary Overie, as preserved to us by Stow in his
" History of London," tells us that the profits of
the ferry — for before a bridge spanned the Thames
a ferry had existed here — were devoted by the
owner, " a maiden named Mary," to the foundation
and endowment of a convent or house of sisters,
which was afterwards converted into a college of
priests ; and that these priests built a bridge of
timber, which in the course of time was converted
into a bridge of stone.

Maitland, in his " History of London," refuses
to believe this tradition, which, if it be true, would
carry back the date of the foundation of St. Mary
Overie's to a period far anterior to any historic
notice of Southwark ; but whether we accept it in
its entirety or not, at all events the legend must be
regarded as fair evidence of the early establishment
of a religious house at this spot, and of the bestowal
of the proceeds of the ferry for its support.

The earliest mention of Southwark by name in
history is in a.d. 1023, when the Saxon chronicle
tells us that Knut, and Egelnoth, Archbishop of
Canterbury, with some other distinguished persons,
carried by ship the body of Alphege, saint and
martyr, across the Thames to " Suthgeweorke," on

.

Its way to Its resting-place at Canterbury. In
" Domesday Book " the name appears under the
form of " Sudwerche."

It is generally said that Southwark was never
fortified till quite a recent period. How, then, did
its name, " wark " or " werke," arise ? Is it the same
word as in bulwark ? A fortress built by the Earl
of Mar, in Scotland, is called " Mar's wark or
werke;" and possibly the same word is embodied
in the word " Southwark."

Mr. Worsaae, in his " Account of the Danes and
Norwegians in England," refers to the possession
, by those peoples of Southwark, the very name of
which, he adds, is unmistakably of Danish or Nor-
wegian origin. " The Sagas relate that, in the time
of King Svend Tveskjasg, the Danes fortified this
trading place, which, evidently, on account of its
situation to the south of the Thames and London,
was called Sydvirke (Sudvirke), or the southern
fortification. From Sudvirke, which in Anglo-
Saxon was called Sud-geweorc, but which in the
Middle Ages obtained the name of Suthwerk or
Swerk, arose the present form— Southwark. The
Northmen had a church in Sudvirke, dedicated to
the Norwegian king, Olaf the Saint." It is stated
that the name of Southwark has been spelled in
no fewer than twenty-seven different ways in old
writings.

We shall not attempt to invade too far the
domain of learned antiquaries, and waste our
readers' time and patience by a long disquisition
on the question whether the natives of Southwark,
twelve hundred years ago — as a portion of the
inhabitants of the county of Surrey — were descen-
dants of the Regni or the Cantii, the Atrebates or
the Bibroci. It is enough for us to know that
the men of Surrey were among the tribes con-
quered by the legions of Julius Cjesar, and that
having belonged at one time to the kingdom of
Mercia, and at another to Kent, Surrey became
after the Conquest part and parcel of the territory
of the son-in-law of William, the powerful Earl of
Warrenne, and that, lying so near to the chief city
of the kingdom, in spite of the fluvius dissociabilis,
the Thames, it was gradually absorbed into the
great metropolis, of which it became a suburb in
the strictest sense, even before it was formally
" annexed " to London.

As already indicated, the low flat tongue of land
bounded on three sides by the Thames in the
bend which it makes between Greenwich and
Vauxhall, was doubtless originally overflowed by
the tide, and formed a large marsh extending to
the foot of the slight eminences which bound its
fourth side upon the south. It is almost certain

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

that this space was banked in artificially by the
Romans, so as to secure it against being over-
flowed ; and Roman remains, which have been dug
up in St. George's Fields and elsewhere about South-
wark and its neighbourhood, are sufficient proofs
that the Romans formed there a settlement of some
kind or other. Indeed, as Ptolemy tells us that
London was in the territory of the Cantii, it has
been inferred — though somewhat too hastily — that
the original London stood on the south of the
river ; but this theory is generally rejected as being
contrary to evidences of various kinds. It is far
more probable that Ptolemy wrote with an im-
perfect knowledge of the geography of so distant
and unimportant a place, and confounded the two
sides of a distant river. No doubt, howe\'er, from
very early times there was on the south side a
suburb consisting of dwelling-houses connected with
the city by a ferry, where the great Roman road of
the Watling crossed the Thames.

The history of Southwark up to the period of
the Norman Conquest is obscure and uncertain ;
but there is no doubt that the place was inhabited
by the Romans, for Charles Knight tells us that
" clear vestiges of Roman dwelling-houses have
been found, not only in Southwark, but here and
there along the bank of the river as far east as
Deptford."

It has been asserted that there was no bridge
between London and Southwark as early as the
tenth century, because we are told that in a.d. 993
Anlaf, the King of Norway, sailed up the river as
far as Stane (Staines) ; but this inference is by no
means to be accepted as certain, for we learn from
William of Malmesbury, and from the " Saxon
Chronicle," that in the very next year there was a
bridge here which obstructed the flight of Sweyn's
forces, when he attacked London and was repulsed
by its brave citizens. Again, little more than
twenty years later, when Knut attacked London,
there certainly was a bridge of one kind or another,
which formed an obstacle to the advance of his
ships up the river; and in order to avoid this
obstacle (according to the Saxon Chronicle), he
dug on the south side a trench, through which he
conveyed his vessels to a point "above bridge."
It is curious that in the accounts of these transac-
tions which have come down to us there is no
actual mention of Southwark by name ; and yet
there must have been some "wcrke" or defence,
at all events, at the entrance of the bridge. Again,
in 1052, Godwin, tiicn in rebellion against P^dward
the Confessor, came with his fleet to Southwark,
and pa.ssing the bridge without any opposition,
proceeded to attack the king's vessels which lay off

Westminster, though further hostilities were averted
by an offer of peace.

Perhaps it was the error of Sweyn in getting his
fleet foul of London Bridge which made his son
Knut go so laboriously to work with the waters of
the Thames on his invasion in 1016, the story of
which shall be briefly related in the words of the
"Saxon Chronicle:" — "Then came the ships to
Greenwiche, and, within a short interval, to London,
where they sank a deep ditch on the south side,
and so dragged their ships to the west side of the
bridge. Afterwards they trenched the city without,
so that no man could go in or out, and often
fought against it ; but the citizens bravely with-
stood them."

There have been several persons who have raised
sceptical doubts about this history ; but the honest
historian, Maidand — who loved to get to the bottom
of all such statements, and who set himself to
discover proofs of Knut's trench — tells us that this
artificial water-course began at the great wet-dock
below Rotherhithe, and passing across the Kent
Road, continued in a crescent form as far as Vaux-
hall, and fell again into the Thames at the lower
end of Chelsea Reach. As proofs of the historic
truth of this hypothesis, he brought forward the
great quantities of hazels, willows, and brushwood,
pointing northwards, and fastened down by rows of
stakes, which were found at the digging and clearing
out of Rotherhithe Dock in 1694, as well as num-
bers of large oaken planks and piles, found also in
other parts on the Surrey side of the river.

Southwark, very naturally, figures in the chapter
of English history which immediately follows on
the Battle of Hastings. As soon as he had won
the battle, we read that William marched upon
London, where the citizens had declared Edgar
Atheling king of England. On reaching South-
wark, which then was an inconsiderable suburb —
though not wholly unfortified, as may be gathered
from its name — the Conqueror was so roughly
handled by the sturdy citizens of London, that
though he repulsed them by die aid of some five
hundred horse, and laid the suburb in ashes, he
found it necessary, or at all events prudent, to retire,
and accordingly marched oft" in a westerly direction.

Southwark is mentioned in history as far back as
A.D. 1053, and was a distinct corporation governed
by its own bailiff until 1327, when Edward III.
made a grant of it to the City of London, whose
mayor was thenceforth to be its bailiff, and to
govern it by his deputy. "Great inconvenience
having been found to arise from its affording a
refuge to oftendcrs of various kinds," the City was
ordered to pay to the royal exchcijuer the sum of

Southward. 1

EARLIEST DESCRIPTION OF LONDON BRIDGE.

;^io annually as a fee-farm rent. In this charter
Southwark is called a "villa," which may mean
anything from a town down to a village ; but if we
take the term in the latter sense, it must have been
a tolerably large " village," for it had no less than
four churches : viz., St. Mary's (a chapel of the
great conventual church of St. Mary over the
Rie); St. Margaret's (where the Town Hall lately
stood); St. Olave's; and, lastly, St. George's; to say
nothing of the hospital of St. Thomas, two prisons
(namel)', those of the King's Bench and the Mar-
shalsea), and also the houses of several prelates,
abbots, and nobles.

Some time after this, however, the inhabitants
recovered their former privileges ; but in the reign
of Edward VI. the Crown granted the district to
the City of London for a money grant of a little less
than ;i^6so ; in consideration of a further sum of
500 marks, it was "annexed" to the said City, and
by virtue of the same grant it continues subject to
its Lord Mayor, who has under him a steward and
a bailiff; and it is governed (or rather represented
in the councils of the City) by one of its aldermen,
whose ward is styled by the name of " Bridge-
without." The properly granted to the City on
the above occasion is regarded as specially liable
to the repairs and maintenance of London Bridge.
By this incorporation, however, Southwark did not
cease to be part and parcel of the county of
Surrey. From this arrangement certain lands were
exempted, such as Southwark Mansion and Park,
which belonged to the king.

According to the "Penny Cyclopoedia" (1842),
this ward appears never to have been represented
in the Common Council, nor do the inhabitants
now elect their aldermen. The senior alderman of
London is always alderman of this ward, and on
his death the next in seniority succeeds him. He
has no ward duties to perform, so that his office is
little else than a sinecure. The City of London
appoints a high bailiff and steward for Southwark ;
but the county magistrates of Surrey exercise juris-
diction in several matters.

" It is curious to observe," says Mr. Robertson,
in his " Lecture on Southwark," " that London
was first indebted to Southwark for its bridge;
that the first bridge was built by the priests of the
monastery in Southwark ; that the Bridge-house
was in Southwark, and not in London ; that the
revenues for the maintenance of the bridge were
not derived from London, but from the southern
side of the Thames ; and although land could not
have been difficult to obtain close to the bridge, the
expensive experiment was resorted to of building
houses on the bridge — literally, on the Thames."

The earliest description of London Bridge, sin-
gularly enough, is given by an Icelander, who lived
in the middle of the thirteenth century, and may
be found quoted by the Rev. James Johnstone, in
his " Antiquitates Celto-Scandicre " (Copenhagen,
1786, 4to), in connection with the Battle of South-
wark, which was fought in 1008, in the luckless
reign of Ethelred II., sumamed the " Unready."
It runs as follows : —

" They (/>., the Danish forces) first came to
shore at London, where their ships were to remain,
and the city was taken by the Danes. Upon the
other side of the river is situate a great market
called Southwark — Sudurvirke in the original —
which the Danes fortified with many defences ;
framing, for instance, a high and broad ditch,
having a pile or rampart within it, formed of wood,
stone, and turf, with a large garrison placed there
to strengthen it. This the king, Ethelred, ....
attacked and forcibly fought against ; but by the
resistance of the Danes it proved but a vain
endeavour. There was at that time a bridge
erected over the river between the City and South-
wark, so wide that if two carriages met they could
pass each other." This structure King Olave and
his Norsemen destroyed by rowing their ships up
close to the bridge, and making them fast to it by
ropes and cables. With these they strained the
piles so vigorously, aided by the strong flow of the
tide, that the piles gave way, and the whole bridge
fell. " And now it was determined to attack
Southwark," continues the Icelander ; " but the
citizens seeing their river occupied by the enemy's
navy so as to cut off all intercourse that way with
the interior provinces, were seized with fear, and
having surrendered the city, received Ethelred as
king." In remembrance of this expedition, thus
sang Ottar Suarti, in a sort of rhythmic prose,
which reminds one of Macpherson's " Ossian : " —

" And thou hast overthrown their bridges, oh ! thou storm
of tlie sons of Odin ! sl-iilful and foremost in the battle. For
thee it was happily reserved to possess the land of London's
winding city. Many were the shields which were gi-asped,
sword in hand, to the mighty increase of the conflict ; but
by thee were the iron-banded coats of mail broken and
destroyed.

" Thou, then, hast come, defender of the land, and hast
restored to his kingdom the exiled Ethelred. By thine aid
is he advantaged, and made strong by thy valour and
prowess ; bitterest was that battle in which thou didst engage.
Now, in the presence of thy kindred, the adjacent lands are at
rest, where Edmund, the relative of the country and of the
people, formerly governed.

" That was truly the sixth fight which the mighty king
fought with the men of England, wherein King Olaf, the
chief himself, a son of Odin, valiantly attacked the bridge at
London. Bravely did the swords of the Volsces defend it ;
but through the trench which the sea-Uings, the men of

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

["Southwark.

Vikesland, guarded, they were enabled to come, and the
plain of Southwark was full of his tents."

The Story of the destruction of London Bridge
by Olaf is thus told in Southey's " Naval History
of England," with all the details of historical
narrative : — " Among them (i.e. Ethelred and his
forces) came a certain king Olaf (perhaps the
same who had been baptized in this country) : he
brought with him a strong fleet ; and, with the aid

they might hope to destroy the bridge ; and Olaf
undertook to make the attempt with some of his
ships, if the other leaders would join in the assault.
Causing, therefore, some deserted houses to be
pulled down, he employed the beams and planks
in constructing projections from the sides of the
ships, under cover of which, when they were laid
alongside the bridge, the assault might be made :
a contrivance intended to serve the same purpose

sor I H KM)

>K Ol.U LONDON HKllM.E, Willi SHUT IwWKK AM) SP. OI.AVE'S CIUJRCH, IN I S2O.

of these Scandinavian ships, the King of England
resolved upon attempting to re-take London from
the Danes. The fleet was of little use unless it
could pass the bridge. But this, which was of
wood, wide enough for the commodious passage of
two carriages, and supported upon trestles, had
been strongly fortified with towers, and a parapet
breast high ; and at its south end it was defended
by a military work, placed on what the Icelandic
historian calls the great emporium of Southwark.
This fortress was of great strength, built of wood
and stone, with a deep and wide ditch and ram-
parts of earth. A first attack upon the bridge
failed ; for the Danes had manned it well, and de-
fended it bravely. Cricved at his repulse, Ethelred
held a council of war, to deliberate in what manner

as those machines which, under the names of
'cats' and 'sows,' were used in sieges. He
expected that the roofing would be strong enough
to resist the weight of any stones which might
be thrown upon it ; but in this expectation he
had calculated too much upon the solidity of his
materials, and too little upon the exertions and
activity ot tlie defenders ; and when, with the
advantage of the flowing tide, the ships had taken
their station, stones of such magnitude were let fall
upon them, that the cover was beaten in ; shields
and helmets afforded no protection ; the ships
themselves were shaken and greatly injured, and
many of them sheered off. Olaf, however, per-
sisted in his enterprise. Under cover of such a
bulwark, he succeeded in fastening some strong

THE BRIDGE-FOOT, SOUTHWARK, IN iSlO.

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

fSouthwark.

cables or chains to the trestles which supported the
bridge : and, when the tide had turned, his rowers,
aided by the returning stream, tore away the middle
of it, many of the enemy being precipitated into
the river. The others fled into the city, or into
Southwark ; and the Thames was thus opened to
the fleet. The south work was then attacked and
carried ; and the Danes were no longer able to
prevent the Londoners from opening their gates
and joyfully receiving their king."

Such, according to ancient story, were the martial
feats of King Olaf, or Olave, upon the water ; but
for his more pious and peaceful actions on land,
which caused the men of Southwark to venerate
his memory, it is needful only to turn to the church
which bears his name, at the south-eastern corner
of the bridge, and of which we shall speak presently.

It was, in reality, one of the two southern land-
marks and boundaries of the old bridge, the Church
of St. Saviour's, at the south-western corner of the
bridge, being the other.

The author of " Chronicles of London Bridge "
gives the following version of part of a Latin hymn
from the Swedish Missal, sung on St. Olave's
festival : —

" Martyred king ! in triumph shining !
Guardian saint ! whose bliss is shrining !
To thy spirit's sons inclining
From a sinful world confining,

By thy might O set them free !
Carnal bonds around them twining,
Fiendish arts aie undermining.
All witli deadly plagues are pining ;
But, thy power and prayers combining,

Safely shall we rise to thee. Amen.''

CHAPTER n.
SOUTHWARK {coi,/iimeJ).—OL'D LONDON BRIDGE.

" Ableganda; Tiberim ultra." — Horace,

Controveisy respecting the Trench from Rolherhiihe to Battersea— How London Bridge wa5 "built on Woolpacks "— Rdigious and Royal Pro-
cessions at the Bridge-foot— Partial Destruction of Old London Bridge by Fire— Conflict between the Force;; of Henry lU. and those of
the Earl of Leicester— Reception of Henry V. after the Battle of Agincourt — Fall of the Soutliern Tower of London Bridge — Southwark
wholly destitute of Fortifications— Jack Cade's Rendezvous in Southwark — Death of Jack Cade — Heads on London Bridge — Reception of
Henry VL and Henry VU. — Reception of Katharine of Aragon — Cardinal Wolscy — Insurrection of Sir Thomas Wyatt— Rebuilding of
the Northern Tower — Standards of the Spanish Armada placed on London Bridge — Southwark fortified by the Parliamentarians, tii
oppose King Charles — Reception of Charles IL — Corn Mills on London Bridge— Tradesmen's Tokens — Bridge-foot — The " Bear" Inn —
The " Knave of Clubs" — Bridge Street — The Shops on London Bridge — The Bridge House — General Aspect of Southwark in the Middle
Ages- Gradual Extension of Southwark — Great F'ire in Southwark in 1676 — Building of New London Bridge.

Stow, in his "Survey of London," advances as
highly probable the hypothesis that when the first
stone bridge was erected over the Thames the
course of the river was temporarily changed, being
diverted into a new channel, " a trencli being cut
for that purpose, beginning, as it is supposed,
east, about Rotherhithe, and ending in the west,
about I'atricksey, now Battersea."

Strype, too, seems to support this view, when he
writes: "It is much controverted whether the river
Thames was turned when the bridge over it was

built lint from all tliat hatli been seen and

writtt^n upon the turning of the river, it seems very
evident to me that it was turned whilst the bridge
was building." But Sir Christopher Wren, and
after him Maitland, are of the contrary opinion,
and think that Stow confused the ditch of the tenth
century with that dug in the time of Knut.

Old London Bridge was said to have been " built
on woolpacks:" this, however, is, of course, a play
upon words, for, in reality, it was built largely out
of the produce of a tax on wool. Stow also

states that the bridge-gate at the Southwark end
was one of the four chief gates of the City of
London, and that it stood there long before the
Norman Conquest, when tlie bridge was only of
timber. But this supposition again is strongly
denied by Maitland.

Of London Bridge itself, and many of the his-
torical scenes that were en.icted upon it, we liave
already spoken in a previous part of this work ; *
but Soutliwark has played too im'portant a part on
several occasions, in scenes connected with the
bridge, to be altogether lost siglit of here. Indeed,
the bridge-foot must have seen very fine and gay
sights in the old days before the Reformation, in
the shape of religious and royal processions. For
instance, in 1392, wlien Ricliard II. suspended and
seized on the Ciiarter of llic City of London, and
the citizens offered to re-purchase their rights for
a sum of money, the king was graciously pleased
to travel up to London from ^Vindsor, " to re-assure

• See Vol. II., pp. 9 — 17.

S^uthwark.]

HISTORIC EVENTS AT THE BRIDGE-FOOT.

them of his favour." The ceremony of publicly
receiving their Majesties, we are told, began at
Wandsworth, "with great splendour and a consider-
able train," when four hundred of the citizens of
London, well mounted, and habited in livery of
one colour, rode forth to meet the king. "At St.
George's Church, in Southwark," says Thomas of
Walsingham, "the procession was met by Robert
Braybrooke, Bishop of London, and his clergy,

followed by five hundred boys in surplices

^Vhen the train arrived at the gate of London
Bridge, nearly the whole of the inhabitants, arranged
in order according to their rank, age, and sex,
advanced to receive it, and presented the king with
a fair milk-white steed, harnessed and caparisoned
in cloth of gold, brocaded in red and white, and
hung about with silver bells ; whilst to the queen
(Anne of Bohemia) they presented a palfrey, also
white, and caparisoned in like manner in white and
red."

In I2I2, the Priory of Southwark, and other
parts adjoining the south end, were destroyed by
fire, along with the greater part of the bridge itself,
which was then of wood. The flames having
caught the beams of the bridge, many of the Lon-
doners lost their lives by fire, and others by water,
being drowned in attempting to escape.

In the reign of Henry III. (a.d. 1307), Southwark
was the scene of a conflict between the forces of
the king and those of Simon de Montfort, the
sturdy Earl of Leicester, which were marched, we
are told, through the county of Surrey, and being
victorious near the foot of the bridge, forced the
king to beat a retreat, while De Montfort passed in
triumph over the bridge into the City : the citizens
of London being, nearly to a man, upon his side.

Splendid pageants were, doubtless, seen fre-
quently here whilst the Court lived at the Tower,
and when London Bridge was the only way from
the south of England into the City. Of some of
these we have already spoken in the chapter above
referred to, particularly of those in the reign of
Richard II., which was, indeed, a memorable reign
for London Bridge.

King Henry V. was received here in great state
on his return to London after the victory of Agin-
court ; an event which was celebrated in verse by
John Lydgate or Lidgate, the monk of Bury : —

" To London Brygge then rode our kyng.

The processions there they met him right ;
Ave, rex Angloriim, they 'g.in syng,

Flos mundi, they said, Godde's knight.
To London Brygge when he com right

Upon the gate he stode on hy —
A gyant that was full giym of myght

To teche the Frenchmen curtesy.

Wot ye well that thus it was ;
Gloria tibi, Trinitas ! "

Fabyan tells us, in his "Chronicles," that in
1437, on Monday, the 14th of January, the great
stone gate and the tower standing upon it, next
Southwark, fell suddenly down at the river, with
two of the fairest arches of the said bridge." To
which Stow piously adds, "And yet no man
perished in body, which was a great work of
Almighty God."

It appears from the narratives which have come
down to us concerning the insurrections of Wat
Tyler, Jack Cade, and Falconbridge, that in the
Middle Ages Southwark was still somewhat desti-
tute of fortifications ; and, probably, its first regular
defences were those of the circuit of fortifications
thrown up by order of the Parliament during the
civil war.

Jack Cade seems to have made Southwark his
head-quarters all through his rebellion. In Shake-
speare's vivid scenes of this rebellion {lie/try VI.,
Fart II.), a messenger tells the king : —

" Jack Cade hath gotten London Bridge ; the citizens
Fly and forsake their houses," &c.

Jack Cade, after his skirmish on Blackheath,
took up his quarters at the " Hart Inn," both
before and after his entry into the City. On the
night of Sunday, July 5th, 1450, Cade being tlien
in Southwark, the city captains, the mayor, alder-
men, and commonalty of London, mounted guard
upon the bridge. " The rebelles," says Hall, in his
" Chronicle," " which neuer soundly slepte, for feare
of sodayne chaunces, hearing the bridge to be kept
and manned, ran with great haste to open the
passage, where betwene bothe partes was a ferce
and cruell encounter. Matthew Gough, more ex-
pert in marciall feates than the other cheuetaynes
of the citie, perceiuing the Kentish men better to
stand to their tacklyng than his ymagination
expected, aduised his company no farther to pro-
cede toward Southwarke till tiie day appered ; to
the entent that the citizens hearing where the
place of the ieopardye rested, might seccurre their
enemies and releue their frendes and companions.
But this counsail came to smal effect : for the
multitude of the rebelles drave the citizens from
the stulpes [wooden piles] at the bridge-foote, to
the drawe-bridge, and began to set fyre in diuers
houses. Alas ! what sorow it was to beholde that
miserable chaunce : for some desyringe to eschew
the fyre lept on hys eneinies weapon, and so died ;
fearful! women, with chyldren in their amies, amased
and appalled, lept into the riuer ; other, doubtinge
how to saue them self betwene f>Te, water, and
swourd, were in their houses suffocate and sniol-

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Soulhwark,

dered ; yet the captayns nothyng regarding these
chauiices, fought on this drawe-bridge all the nyglue
valcauntly, but in conclusion the rebelles gat the
drawe-bridge, and drowned many, and slew John
Sutton, alderman, and Robert Heysande, a hardy
citizen, with many other, bcsyde Matthew Gough,
a man of greate wit, much experience in feates
of chiualrie, the which in continuall warres had
valeauntly semed the king, and his father, in the
partes beyond the sea. But it is often sene, that
he which many tymes hath vanquyshed his enemies
in straunge countreys, and returned agayn as a
conqueror, hath of his owne nation afterward been
shamfully murdered and brought to confusion.
This hard and sore conflict endured on the bridge
till ix of the clocke in the momynge in doubtful!
chaunce and fortune's balaunce : for some tyme
the Londoners were bet back to the stulpes at
Sainct Magnus Corner ; and sodaynly agayne the
rebelles were repulsed and dryuen back to the
stulpes in Southwarke ; so that both partes beyng
faynte, wery, and fatygate, agreed to desist from
fight, and to leue battayll till the next day, vpon
condition that neyther Londoners should passe
into Southwarke, nor the Kentish men into
London."

During the truce that followed this defence of
London Bridge, a general pardon was procured for
Cade and his followers by the Lord High Chan-
cellor, Archbishop .Staftbrd ; and all began to
withdraw by degrees from Southwark with their
spoil. Cade, however, was soon afterwards slain,
and his dead body having been brought up to
London, his head was placed over the south gate
of London Bridge. Mr. Mark A. T^ower has been
at the trouble of recording the fact that he was
slain, not at Hothfield, in Kent, but at Heathfield,
near Cuckfield, in Susse.x, where a roadside monu-
ment is erected in his honour. It bears the fol-
lowing inscription : —

"Near this spot wa.s slain tlie notorious rebel,
Jack Cade,
By Alexander Iden, Sheriff of Kent, a. d. 14^0.
His body was carried to London, and his head fixed on
London liridge.

This is the success of all rebels, and this fortune chanceth
ever to traitors." — Hall's Chronicle.

By that awful gate which looked towards South-
wark, for a ]3eriod of nearly three hundred years,
under Tudor and Stuart sovereigns, it must have
been a rare thing for the passenger to walk with-
out seeing one or more human he.ids stuck upon
a pike, looking down upon the How of the river
below, and rotting and blackening in the sun. The
head of the noble Sir William Wallace was for many

months exposed on this spot. \w 1471 Falcon-
bridge — " the bastard Falconbridge " — made .South-
wark his head-quarters in his impudent attack on
London. He arrived here in May, giving out that
he came to free King Henry from his captivity ;
and by way of proof of his intention, burnt part
of the bridge, together with some of the houses
in the suburbs of Southwark. After meeting with
defeat, his head and those of nine of his com-
rades were stuck together on ten spears, where they
remained visible to all comers, till the elements
and the carrion crows had left nothing of them
there but the bones. At a later period the head
of the pious Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, was
stuck up here, along with that of the honest and
philosophic Sir Thomas More. The quarters of
Sir Thomas Wyatt, the son of the well-known poet
of that name, were exhibited here, at the end of
the bridge, during the reign of Queen Mary.

One of the most imposing pageants witnessed at
London Bridge was that accorded here by the
citizens to Henry VL, on his return to London,
after having been crowned King of France in the
church of Notre Dame at Paris ; the " pageant "
consisting, if Fabyan may be trusted, of a " mighty
gyaunt standyng, with a swoard drawen," and
figures of three " emperesses," representing Nature,
Grace, and Fortune ; with seven maidens, all in
white, representing the seven orders of the angelic
host, who addressed the king in verses recorded
at full length by Lydgate, of which the following
stanza may serve as a sample : —

" God the (thee) endue with a crowne of gloria,
.\nd with a sceptre of clennesse and pile,
And with a shield of right and victorie.
And with a mantel of prudence clad thou be:
A shclde of faith for to defende the,
An helme of hettle wrought to thine encres
Girt with a girdelof louc and perfect peese (peace)."

Henry VH. was received here in pomp, after
defeating the insurgents, in 1497 ; the heads of the
leaders of the outbreak, Flamoke and Joseph, being
set over the entrance to the bridge.

In 1501, Prince Arthur, eldest son of Henry VII.,
with his bride, Katharine of Aragon, was welcomed
here on his way from " Lambhithe " to mtness the
rejoicings prepared for them in the City. Stow
tells us, in his " Annals," " that at the entrance
of London Bridge they were greeted by a costly
pageant of St. Katharine and St. Ursula, with many
virgins." How little did she then think of the fate
that awaited her I

Cardinal Wolsey rode in great state over the
bridge, and through the High Street, Southwark,
and along the Kentish Road, when he left the

Suuthwark.]

CORN-MILLS AT LONDON BRIDGE.

ir

kingdom in 1526, for the purpose of arranging a
marriage between Henry VIII. and the Uuchess
d'Alen^on. Two years later, the pubUc entry of
Cardinal Campeggio, as legate from the Pope,
into London, to deal with the question of Henry's
divorce from Queen Katharine, must have been
a brave sight. The nobility rode in advance
from Blackheath towards London Bridge, " well
mounted, and wearing elegant attire ; " then came
the cardinal himself, in magnificent robes, "glit-
tering with jewels and precious stones ; " then his
"cross-bearers, the carriers of his pole-axes, his
servants in red livery, his secretaries, physicians,
and general suite." Next came two hundred
horsemen and a " vast concourse of people." The
procession is said to have grown to two miles in
length before it reached the City gates. From St.
George's Church to the foot of the bridge the
road was lined on both sides by the monks and
the other clergy, dressed in their various habits,
with copes of cloth of gold, silver and gold crosses,
and banners, who, we are told, as the legate
passed, " threw up clouds of incense and sang
hymns." At the foot of the bridge two bishops
received the cardinal, the people shouted for joy,
whilst all the bells of the City were rung, and the
roar of artillery from the Tower and the river-forts
"rent the air" — to use Wolsey's own words — "as
if the very heavens would fall."

In the insurrection of Sir Thomas Wyatt in
1553-4,* Southwark formed the rallying-point for
that misguided rebel and his force, some four
thousand strong. His soldiers, meeting with but
little opposition on the south of the Thames,
attacked and sacked the palace of the Bishop of
Winchester, whose fine library they destroyed. As
the artillery in the Tower began to fire on South-
wark next day, in order to dislodge Sir Thomas,
the inhabitants urged him to retreat, in order to
save them from loss and destruction. His sub-
sequent movements and his ultimate fate we have
already recorded.

Stow tells us, in his "Survey" (vol. i., p. 64),
that in April, 1577, the tower at the northern end
having become decayed, a new one was commenced
in its place ; and that during the interval the heads
of the traitors which had formerly stood upon it
were set upon the tower over the gate at Bridge-
foot, Southwark, which consequently came to be
called the Traitors' Gate. It may be remembered
that John Houghton, the Prior of the Charter-
house, Sir Thomas More, and Bishop Fisher, were
among the " traitors " who were thus treated.

• Sec Vol. III., p. I2S, and Vol. IV., p. 389.

About the time when these heads were removed,
several alterations and improvements would seem
to have been made in the bridge, especially in the
erection of a " beautiful and chargeable piece of
wood" — i.e., a magnificent wood mansion, wiiich
formed a second Southwark Gate and Tower.

It is worthy of note that after the defeat of the
Spanish Armada, eleven of the captured standards
were hung upon London Bridge at the end looking
towards Southwark, on the day of Southwark Fair,
" to the great joy of all the people who repaired
thither."

When the Parliamentary cause was in the ascen-
dant, and King Charles was expected to attack
the City, Southwark was rapidly fortified, par-
ticularly about the foot of London Bridge, like the
other outlying portions of the metropolis ; f and
one of Cromwell's officers, Colonel Rainsborough,
with a brigade of horse and foot, was able to hold
the whole borough of Southwark almost without
opposition.

On Tuesday, the 29th of May, 1660, King
Charles II. entered London in triumph, after
having been magnificendy entertained in St.
George's Fields. About three in the afternoon he
arrived in Southwark, and thence proceeded over
the bridge into the City, attended by all the glory
of London and the military forces of the kingdom.
Lord Clarendon, who makes this " fair return of
banished majesty " the concluding scene of his
noble " History of the Great Rebellion," gives us
but little information as to the details of the
king's reception at London Bridge, though we
learn incidentally from his pages that " the crowd
was very great."

Bloome, one of the continuators of Stow, ex-
pressly says that in the Great Fire some of the old
houses at the south end of the bridge — several of
them built in the reign of King John — escaped
the flames.

Two Gothic towers — not uniform in plan, how-
ever— defended the southern end of the original
bridge, and also of the second. At this end of the
bridge were, likewise, four corn-mills, based on
three sterlings, which projected far into the river
westward. They were covered with a long shed,
formed of shingles or thin boards, and could cer-
tainly have been no ornament to the structure to
which they were an appendage. We have already
spoken of the houses and shops which lined the
roadway of old London Bridge, J but we may here
make mention of the tradesmen's tokens which
were once in use here. A full list of those used in

t See Vol. IV., p. 3.-)5-

t See Vol. II.. p. 15.

12

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[South wark.

Southwark will be found in the appendix to Man-
ning and Bray's " History of Surrey." Several of
these tokens relate to London Bridge. The author
of " Chronicles of London Bridge " gives illustra-
tions of several, among which is a copper token,
farthing size, having on the one side, to speak I
heraldically, a bear passant, chained ; and on the
reverse, the words " Abraham Browne, at y' Bridge-
foot, Southwark ; his half penny." Another copper

frequently by name by writers of the seventeenth
century.

Thus Pepys writes, under date April 3, 1667 : —
" I hear how the king is not so well pleased of this
marriage between the Duke of Richmond and Mrs.
Stuart, as is talked ; and that he, by a wile, did
fetch her to the ' Bear ' at the Bridge-foot, where
a coach was ready, and they are stole away into
Kent without the Kinsr's leave." Mr. Larwood

IKIUKV Ol' iX. MARY OVtKV, 1 70O.

token sliows the same device, with the legend
" Cornelius Cook, at the ' Beare ' at the Bridge-
foot." Another displays a sugar-loaf, with the
name, "Henry Phillijjs, at the Bridj-foot, South-
wark."

The end of London Bridge, on tlie Southwark
side, was known as Bridge-foot. Tlie " Bear" here
was, for some centuries, one of the most popular of
London taverns ; indeed, if we may accept Mr.
Larwood's statement, it was the resort of aristocratic
pleasure-seekers as early as the reign of Richard HL
Thus, in March, 1463-4, it was repeatedly visited
by the "Jockey of Norfolk," then Sir John Howard,
who went thither to drink wine and shoot at the
target. Peter Cunningham, in his " London, Past
and Present," adds that the " bear " is mentioned

ol)serves that the wine sold at this establislmient
did not niset witli the approbation of the fastidious
searchers after claret in 1 69 1 : —

" Through stinks of all sorts, both the simple and compound,
Which thri)Ut;h narrow alleys our senses do confound,
We came to tlie IJear, which we now uitderstood
Was the first house in Southwark built alter the flood ;
And has such a succession of visitors known,
Not more names were e'er in Welch pcdit;rces shown ;
Hut claret with them was so much out of fashion,
That it has not been known there for a whole p;oneialion.
(Last Search after Claret in iionthivark, 1(191.)

This old tavern was taken down in December,
1 761, when a quantity of coins, dating as far back as
the reign of I'.lizabelh, were found, as may be seen
by a reference to tlie Public Atheitiscr of that date.

We learn tVum the Harleian manuscripts that

South wark.]

BRIDGE HOUSE.

13.

there was here another old inn, known as the
" Knave of Clubs," kept by one Edward Butling,
whose advertisement states that he " maketh and
selleth all sorts of hangings for rooms, &c.," and
who, probably, also sold playing-cards, if his sign
had any meaning.

Bridge Street, probably, extended itself gradually
on to the bridge itself; the houses being distin-
guished by signs, some of which have come down
to our times, in the works of antiquaries and on

on London Bridge, facing Tooley Street, sells all
sorts (of) leather breeches, leather, and gloves,
wholesale and retail, at reasonable rates." It is
clear, from these notices, that it was very doubtful
where London Bridge ended and Bridge Street
actually began.

In the sixteenth century, the street on the bridge
ranked with St. Paul's Churchyard, Paternoster Row,
and Little Britain, as one of the principal literary
emporia of the City. " The Three Bibles," " The

OLD HOUSES FORMERLY AT BANKSIDE. (Sir fat^e 45

tradesmen's tokens and bill-heads. For instance :
there is extant a small copper-plate tobacco paper,
probably of the reign of Queen Anne, with a coarse
and rude engraving of a negro smoking, and hold-
ing in his hand a roll of tobacco ; above his head
is a crown, two ships in full sail are behind, and the
sun issues from the right-hand corner above ; in
the foreground are four little negroes planting and
packing tobacco, and beneath is the name "John
Winkley, Tobacconist, near y" Bridge, in the
Burrough, Southwark." We have also seen another
shop bill, of about the same date, displaying, within
a rich cartouche frame, a pair of embroidered
small-clothes and a glove : beneath is the legend,
"Walter Watkins, Breeches-maker, Leather-seller,
and Glover, at the sign of the ' Breeches and Glove,'
242

Angel," and " The Looking-Glass," are some of the
signs of the publishers established "on London
Bridge," and mentioned on the title-pages of books
published at this date.

John Bunyan at one time certainly used to
preach in a chapel in Southwark ; but, in all pro-
bability, the author of "Wine and Walnuts" is
using the vagueness of after-dinner talkers when he
says that the converted tinker lived on London
Bridge. Perhaps he was led into the error by the
fact that one of Bunyan's lesser books was published
there.

The Bridge House and Yard in Tooley Street
are closely connected with the history of the
bridge itself. For Stow tells us, in his "Survey"
(vol. ii., p. 24), that they were so called as being

14

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Soiithwarlv.

" a store-house for stone, timber, or whatsoever
peitaineth to the building or repairing of London
Bridge." He adds that this Bridge House " seemeth
to have taken beginning with the first foundation
of the bridge, either of stone or timber ; " and that
it covers " a large plot of ground on the banks of
the river Thames, containing divers large buildings
for the stowage of materials " for the bridge. The
Bridge House, in fact, was long used as a receptacle
of provisions for the navy, and as a store-house for
the public in times of dearth ; ovens were attached
to it, in which the biscuit for the Royal Navy was
baked. It was also used on certain occasions as
a banqueting-hall, when the Lord Mayor came in
his official capacity to the borough. One of these
occasions was at the opening of Southwark Fair, of
which we shall have more to say presently. We
may state here, however, that the fair was insti-
tuted in the reign of Edward VI., and was held
annually in the month of September. "At the
time of this fair, anciently called ' Our Lady's Fair
in Southwark,' " observes the author of "Chronicles
of London Bridge," " the Lord Mayor and Sheriffs
used to ride to St. Magnus' Church after dinner,
at two o'clock in the afternoon, the former being
vested with his collar of SS., without his hood, and
all dressed in the scarlet gowns, lined, without
their cloaks. They were attended by the sword-
bearer, wearing lus embroidered cap, and carrying
the ' pearl ' sword ; and at church were met by the
aldermen, all of whom, after evening prayer, rode
over the bridge in procession, and passed through
the fair, and continued either to St. George's
Church, Newington Bridge, or the stones pointing
out the City Liberties at St. Thomas of Waterings.
They then returned over the bridge, or to the
Bridge House, where a banquet was provided, and
the aldermen took leave of the Lord Mayor ; all
parties being returned home, the Bridge Masters
gave a supper to the Lord Mayor's officers."

" The two governors of the bridge," writes the
author of the work above quoted, " have an ex-
cellent house in the suburb of Southwark, as well
as a store-house, containing everything belonging
to their occupation." From the same work we
learn that a cross, charged with a small saltire, is
supposed to have been the old heraldic device for
Southwark or the estate of London Bridge; and
we know that the arms used for those places are
still Azure, an annulet, ensigned with a cross patee,
Or, interlaced with a saltire, conjoined in base of
the second.

'I'he following just remarks on the general aspect
of Southwark in the Middle Ages arc taken from
Dr. R. I'aulc's " Pictures of Old Londjn":— "On

the other side of the river lay many points, isolated
and unconnected with one another, which are now
joined together into a district of the town that
numbers its hundreds of thousands of inhabitants.
It was only at the outlet of the bridge at South-
wark that, from different causes, there had arisen in
ancient times a town-like settlement. Two great
priories — the monastery of St. Mary Overies and
the convent of Bermondsey — had early given rise
to the active and busy intercommunication which
naturally resulted from the vicinity of such eccle-
siastical institutions as these were. Near to St.
Mary's, and not far from the bridge, there stood
till the time of the Reformation the magnificent
palace of the Bishop of Winchester, one of the
wealthiest and most powerful prelates in the land,
and whose extensive spiritual jurisdiction included
the county of Surrey. The most important agent
in this great intercommunication was the high road
which ran from the bridge, and extended through
the southern counties to the ports of Kent, Sussex,
and Hampshire. Here heavily-laden wagons were
constantly moving to and fro ; and here, too,
assembled, at the appointed seasons of the year,
the motley crowd of pilgrims who were bound for
the shrine of the holy Thomas h. Becket at Can-
terbury. The 'Tabard' inn had been known far
and near for many ages, from the vivid descriptions
given by Chaucer of the busy life and stir which
blended there with devotion and adventure. All
remains of it are not yet (1861) effaced, although
there has been erected in its immediate neighbour-
hood the railway terminus of that great overland

route which connects England with India

The greater part of the land lying on the opposite
(i.e., the Surrey) bank of the river consisted of
fields and gardens, with a few larger hamlets, and
some places of amusement, where bear-baiting and
cock-fighting were practised. Immediately opposite
to Westminster rose the chapel and castellated
towers and walls of the princely residence which
the Archbishops of Canterbury had chosen before
the close of the twelfth century for their town
residence, in the immediate neighbourhood of the
chief offices of state and the tribunals of justice."
Such must have been, speaking generally, the
appearance of Southwark even three centuries ago.
In the time of Elizabeth, if we may rely on the
statements of the " Penny Cyclopedia," Southwark
appears to have consisted of a line of street ex-
tending from the bridge nearly to where now is the
Borough Road, formerly called "Long Southwark ;"
Kent Street, then the high road to Canterbury and
1 )()ver, and of which only the jiart near St. Ceorge's
Church was lined with houses ; a line of street,

Southwark.J

OPENING OF NEW LONDON BRIDGE.

15

including Tooley or St. Olave's Street, extending
from the " Bridge-foot " to Rotherhithe Church ;
another line of street running westward by Bank-
side to where is now the Blackfriars Road ; and,
lastly, Bermondsey Street, branching off from
Tooley Street to Bermondsey Church. Excepting
near St. Saviour's Church, there were at that time
scarcely any back or cross streets. Near Bankside
were the Bishop of Winchester's palace, the Globe
Theatre, the "Stews," and two " Bear Gardens" for
baiting bulls and bears. The " villages " of Lam-
beth, Kennington, Newington, and Walworth were
then separated from Southwark, and from each
other also, by open fields.

Towards the end of the seventeenth century
Southwark had extended itself considerably. The
houses on the east side of Blackman Street now
stretched to Newington and Walworth, which thus
became joined on to the metropolis, though St.
George's Fields, on the western side, still remained
open country. Back streets, also, and alleys had
been formed on either side of High Street, as far
as St. George's Church. In the early part of the
eighteenth century the buildings of Southwark ex-
tended along the river-side as far as Lambeth ;
and in the opposite direction Rotherhithe Street
was continued to and even beyond Cuckold's
Point, where the river bends to the southward.
Later still, in the middle of the eighteenth century,
the opening of Blackfriars Bridge led to the for-
mation of Great Surrey Street ; and towards the
close of the century, St. George's Fields were
enclosed and laid out in new streets. Since the
commencement of the present century, Lambeth
Marsh — which formerly separated Southwark from
Lambeth — has been covered with new streets and
buildings ; and in every direction Southwark has
spread itself till it has united itself with all the
surrounding villages, from Greenwich in the far
east to Battersea in the far west, and combined
them into one large town, having a population of
over 300,000, of which Southwark proper may be
regarded as the nucleus.

In a litde less than ten years after the Great Fire
of London — namely, in May, 1676 — Southwark was
visited by a fire which did, in proportion, almost
equal damage with the conflagration which has
become historical. " It broke out," writes Mr. C.
Walford, in the " Insurance Cyclopaedia," " at an
oilman's, between the ' George ' and ' Tabard '
inns, opposite St. Margaret's Hill. The front of
the ' Tabard ' was consumed, but was immediately
rebuilt, presumably in facsimile of the original,
with its court-yard, galleries, pilgrim's hall, and

quaint old sleeping-rooms. It is doubtful," he
adds, " how far any part of the hotel then burnt
may have been part of the actual inn described by
Chaucer, where, on the eve of a pilgrimage, the
pretty prioress, the ' Wife of Bath,' the ' Knight,'
the ' Squire,' the ' Sumpnour,' and the ' Pardoner,'
met, chatted, laughed, and flirted. The 'White
Hart,' whose name was connected with that of
Jack Cade, was also burnt in this fire. The fire-
engines were first worked with hose-pipes on this
occasion, and did good service. It was probably
owing to these that the conflagration was stayed at
St. Thomas's Hospital."

The king (Charles II.) was so much touched by
the sight, which recalled vividly the scenes which
he had witnessed ten years before, that he went
down the river in his state-barge to London Bridge,
in order "to give such orders as His Majesty found
fit for putting a stop to it." It is difficult, however,
to see how a king could be of more use in such an
emergency than a good chief-fireman, or even of as
much service. The buildings being as yet, like
those of Old London, chiefly of timber, lath, and
plaster, the fire spread extensively ; and its farther
progress was stayed only " after that about 600
houses had been burnt or blown up."

Old London Bridge, and the street winding
southward from it, were situated about a hundred
feet eastward of the present bridge and its approach
from the High Street. The building of New
London Bridge was actually commenced on the
15th of May, 1824, when the first coffer-dam for the
southern pier was driven into the bed of the river ;
the first stone was laid in June, 1825; and the
bridge was publicly opened by William IV. and
Queen Adelaide on the ist of August, r83i. "I
was present, a few days ago," writes Lucy Aikin, in
September of that year, " at the splendid spectacle
of the opening of new London Bridge. It was
covered half-way over with a grand canopy, formed
of the flags of all nations, near which His Majesty
dined with about two thousand of his loyal subjects.
The river was thronged with gilded barges and
boats, covered with streamers, and crowded with
gaily-dressed people ; the shores were alive with
the multitude. In the midst of the gay show I
looked down the stream upon the old, deserted, half-
demolished bridge, the silent remembrancer of
seven centuries. I thought of it fortified, with a
lofty gate at either end, and encumbered with a
row of houses on each side. I beheld it the scene
of tournaments ; I saw its barrier closed against the
rebel Wyatt; and I wished myself a poet for its
sake."

10

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[South warTL

CHAPTER in.
SOUTHWARK {co>iHm<fJ).—ST. SAVIOUR'S CHURCH, &c.

*' How many an antique monument is found
Illegible, and faithless to its charge !
That deep msculp'd once held in measured phrase
The mighty deeds of those who sleep below :
Of hero, sage, or saint, whose pious hands
Those ponderous masses raised — forgotten now.
They and their monuments alike repose."

The Limits of Southwark as a Borough— The Liberty of the Clink— The Old High Street— The Clock-tower at London Bridge— The Borough
Market— Old St. Saviour's Grammar School— The Patent of Foundation granted by Queen Elizabeth— St. Saviour's Church— The Legend
of Old Audrey, the Ferryman — Probable Derivation of the Name of Overj', or Overie — Foundation of the Priory of St. Mary Over>'—
Burning of the Priory in rai2 — Building of the Church of St. .Mary Magdalen — Historical Events connected with the Church — Religious
Ceremonies and Public Processions — Alterations and Restorations of St. Saviour's Church — The Lady Chapel used as a Bakehouse — Bishop
Andrewes' Chapel— John Gower, John Fletcher, and other Noted Personages buried here— Hollar's Etchings — Montague Close.

Before proceeding with an examination of the
various objects of antiquarian interest abounding
in the locaHty, it may be as well to state that
Southwark is a general name, sometimes taken and
understood as including, and sometimes as exclud-
ing Rotherhithe, Bermondsey, and Lambeth. We
shall use it, at present, in the latter sense.

Black's "Guide to London," published in 1S63,
divides the district south of the Thames into two
principal portions :—" i. Southwark, known also
as ' the Borough,' including Bermondsey and
Rotherhithe, with a population of about 194,000.
2. Lambeth, with the adjacent but outlying dis-
tricts of Kennington, Walworth, Newington, Wands-
wortli, and Camberwell, with a population of
386,000." Southwark is always called "the
Borough" by Londoners; and very naturally so,
for it has been a " borough " literally, having re-
turned two members to Parliament since the
twenty-third year of Edward I., and it was for
several centuries the only " borough " adjacent to
the " cities " of London and Westminster. Under
the first Reform Bill (1832) its limits as a borough
were extended by the addition of the parishes of
Christ Church, Bermondsey, and Rotherhithe, and
also of the " Liberty of the Clink."

The Liberty of the Clink, as we learn from the
"Penny Cyclopaedia" (1842), belonged to the Bishop
of Winchester, whose palace, of which we shall pre-
sently speak, stood near the western end of St.
Saviour's Church, and who appoints for it — or, at
all events, till very lately appointed — a steward and
a bailiff. This part of Southwark appears not to
have been included in the grant to the City.

In the " New View of London " (1708) we read,
"The Manor of Southwark, by some called the
Clink Liberty, i.s, in extent, about a quarter of the
parish of St. .Saviour's. The civil government of
it is under the Bishop of Winchester, who keeps I
court by his steward and bailiff, who liold i)leas as

at the Burrough (sic) for debt, damage, ike, for
which manor there is a prison."

There is nothing romantic, to say the least, in
the situation of Southwark. At the best it is a dead
flat, unmixed with a single acre of rising ground.
" What a contrast," exclaims Charles Mackay, in
" The Thames and its Tributaries," " is there now,
and always has been, in both the character and the
appearance of the two sides of the river ! The
London side, high and well built, thickly studded
with spires and public edifices, and resounding
with all the noise of the operations of a various
industry ; the Southwark and Lambeth side, low
and flat, and meanly built, with scarcely an edifice
higher than a wool-shed or timber-yard, and a popu-
lation with a squalid, dejected, and debauched
look, offering a remarkable contrast to the cheer-
fulness and activity visible on the very faces of the
Londoners. The situation of Southwark upon the
low swamp is, no doubt, one cause of the unhealthy
appearance of the dwellers on the south side of the
Thames ; but the dissolute and rakish appearance
of the lower orders among them must be otherwise
accounted for. From a very early age, if the truth
must be told, Southwark and Lambeth, and espe-
cially the former, were the great sinks and recep-
tacles of all the vice and immorality of London.
Down to the year 1328 Southwark had been inde-
pendent of the jurisdiction of London — a sort of
neutral ground which the law could not reach —
and, in consequence, the abode of thieves and
abandoned characters of every kind. They used
to sally forth in bands of a hundred or two hun-
dred at a time to rob in tiic City ; and the Lord
Mayor and aldermen for the time being had not
unfrequently to keep watch upon the bridge for
nights togetlicr, at the head of a troop of armed
men, to prevent their inroads. - The thieves, how-
ever, on these occasions took to their boats at mid-
night, and rowing up the river landed at West-

Southwark.l

THE BOROUGH MARKET,

17

minster, where they drove all before them with
as much valour and as great impunity as a border
chieftain upon a foray into Cumberland. These
things induced the magistrates of London to apply
to Edward HI. for a grant of Southwark. The
request was complied with, and the vicious place
was brought under the rule of the City. Driven,
in some measure, from their nest, the thieves took
refuge in Lambeth, and still set the authorities at
defiance. From that day to this the two boroughs
have had pretty much the same character, and have
been known as the favourite resort of thieves and
vagabonds of every description." It is to be
hoped that in this description of the cliaracter of
the " Londoners over the water," Dr. Mackay has
written with a litde of poetical licence, not to say
exaggeration, as he certainly has over-stated the
squalidity of their buildings. The huge palaces of
commerce erected on either side of Southwark
Street in 1875 give the most palpable contradiction
to his statements, which perhaps were a little in
excess of the truth in 1S40, when he wrote.

Down to the time of the demolition of Old
London Bridge, and the consequent formation of
the present broad approach to the new bridge,
Southwark retained much of its antique character.
The old High Street, then rich with its pointed
gables, and half-timbered over-hanging storeys,
with florid plaster-work and diamond casements,
such as characterised the street architecture of
ancient London — is now quite altered in appear-
ance. All the picturesque features here mentioned
have long been swept away, and their place was for
a time supplied by the unbroken parapets and the
monotonous brick front of lines of shops ; but even
these in turn have in part been superseded by
buildings altogether of another age and style ; we
refer to the Grecian and Italianised fagade of the
western side of the present High Street, imme-
diately on our right as we leave the bridge.

"The street of Old Southwark," writes John
Timbs, in his "Autobiography," "was in a line
shelving down from the bridge, and crowded with
traffic from morn till night. We remember, about
1809, watching from our nursery window the
demolition of a long range of wood-and-plaster
and gabled houses on the west side of High Street ;
and in 1830 were removed two houses of the time
of Henry VH., with bay windows and picturesque
plaster decorations, reported, though we know not
with how much truth, to have been the abode of
Queen Anne Boleyn."

Brayley, in his " History of Surrey," remarks :
" The principal street [of Southwark] is the High
Street, forming a portion of the great road from

London through Surrey, and running in a south-
westerly direction from London Bridge to St,
Margaret's Hill, and thence to St. George's Church.
Tiie part between the bridge and St. Margaret's
Hill was formerly called Long Southwark, but is
now called Wellington Street, from which the way
is called High Street as far as St. George's
Church."

Near the foot of the bridge, and at the point
where the high level of the bridge begins to slope
down to the original level of the ground, the road
is crossed by the railway bridge over which are
carried the lines connecting London Bridge station
with the stations at Cannon Street and Charing
Cross. Here, too, in the centre of the roadway,
stood for some few years, a clock-tov/er of Gothic
design, surmounted by a spire, and originally in-
tended, we believe, to contain a statue of the
great Duke of Wellington. The tower itself was
erected about the year 1854, but the statue was
never placed in it ; and having been found to be a
continual block to the traffic over the bridge, the
tower itself was in the end demolished.

At the time of the alterations made here in
consequence of the rebuilding of London Bridge,
advantage was taken to carry out another improve-
ment for the benefit of the locality, namely, the
erection of a new market-place. Liconvenience
having arisen from the situation of the old market,
which used to be held in the High Street, between
London Bridge and St. Margaret's Hill, two Acts
of Parliament were obtained in the middle of the
last century, in pursuance of which a market-house
was erected on a piece of ground westward of the
High Street, called Rochester Yard, from having
been formerly the site of a mansion belonging
to the see of Rochester, which was taken down
in the year 1604, and the site of which is still
marked by Rochester Street. The market-place
now consists of a large open paved space on the
south side of St. Saviour's churchyard ; in one
corner of it a neat granite drinking-fountain has
been erected. Several buildings, of a light and
airy character, to serve the purposes of the dealers
and others in the market — which, by the way, is
devoted to the sale of vegetables, &c. — occupy the
south side of the open space ; the principal feature
in these buildings is the large central dome. A
considerable addition of space was made to the
market-place in 1839 by the demolition of the old
St. Saviour's Grammar School, which had existed
on that spot since the time of Queen Elizabeth.
" The old school," as we learn from the Mirror,
vol. XXXV. (1840), "was a handsome structure, with
very spacious school-room, having the master's

i8

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

seat, with sounding-board over. The exterior was
a brick fabric, consisting of three casement windows
on each side of a large doorway, ascended by three
semi-circular stone steps, with a handsome carved
dome, representing two children supporting the
Bible. The second storey had seven lofty case-

wark, having been purchased by the inhabitants
as a parish church, the desire of instilling useful
knowledge into youths induced Thomas Cure,
the queen's saddler, and several other benevolent
persons, to found the grammar-school we are now
describing for the instruction of thirty boys of the

IMl-.KluK ul- .SI. saviour's CHURCH, 182I.

ment windows ; the rooms panelled. The school
was screened from the churchyard by an iron
railing."

When Queen Elizabeth came to the throne,
following the example of her brother, Edward VL,
she considered the importance of diffusing know-
ledge among the ])eoplc, to forward which she
not only rc-foundcd the graminar-scliool of West-
minster, but encouraged her subjects to other like
acts of benevolence.

'I'he priory church of SU Mary Overy, Soutli-

same parisli ; and for tliis purpose they obtained
letters patent from Queen Elizabeth, in the fourth
year of lier reign. In these it is recited of the said
grammar-school : —

" That Thomas Cure, William Browker, Chris-
topher Campbell, and other discret and more sad
inhabitants of St. Saviour's, had, at tlicir own great
costs and pains, devised, erected, and set up a
grammar-school, wherein the children of the poor,
as well as tlic ricli inhabitants, were freely brought
up ; tluil tliey had applied for a charter to establish

VIEWS OF ST. SAVIOUR'S CHURCH
J, Interior of Chapel, East End of St. Saviour's, i3oo. 2. Lady Chapel, 1880.

4. St. Saviour's Church, 1S30.

5. Montague Close, i860.

3. Part of Priory of St. Saviour's.
6, Chapel at End of St. Saviour's, 1800.

20

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

(Southwark.

a succession ; she therefore wills that it shall be
one grammar-school for Education of the Children
of the Parishioners and Inhabitants of St. Saviour,
to be called 'A Free Grammar-school of the
Parishioners of St. Saviour in Southwark,' to have
one master and one under-master ; six of the more
discreet and sad inhabitants to be governors, by
the name of ' Governors of the Possessions and
Revenues and Goods of the Free Grammar-school
of the Parishioners of the Parish of St Saviour,
Southwark, in the county of Surrey, incorporate
and erected ; ' and they are thereby incorporated,
to have perpetual succession, with power to pur-
chase lands, &c., and that on death or other causes
the remaining governors, and twelve others of the
more discreet and godliest inhabitants, by the
governors to be named, should elect a meet person
or governor . . . having power, with advice of the
Bishop of Winchester, or he being absent, with
advice of any good or learned man, to appoint a
schoolmaster and usher from time to time, &c.,
.... and also power to purchase lands not ex-
ceeding ^40 a year."

All that the parishioners obtained by this patent
of Queen Elizabeth was to be made a corporate
body with succession ; the queen gave them
nothing to endow their school. It seems to have
been some time before they proceeded any farther,
for the first patent of Elizabeth granted a lease of
the rectory for sixty years, in order that a school
should be erected ; but by a subsequent patent it
appears that it had not been built till after 15 85.

In 1676 the school was burnt in the great fire
which then destroyed a large part of Southwark,
but it was soon rebuilt.

This new building having become sadly dilapi-
dated in 1830, the governors resolved on erecting
a new school near St. Peter's Church, in Sumner
Street, the ground being given for the purpose by
Dr. Sumner, Bishop of Winchester, and accord-
ingly the ancient grammar-school was taken down.
We shall liavc more to say about St. Saviour's
Grammar School when we reach Sumner Street.

St. Saviour's Church — one of the finest parochial
churches in the kingdom — in spite of the barbarous
mutilation which it underwent when its nave was
pulled down, is now almost the sole remaining
object of "Old Southwark." In spite of the loss
of its original nave, it is deservedly styled by Mr.
A. Wood, in his " Ecclesiastical Antiquities of
London," " the second church in the metropolis,
and the first in the county of Surrey." It is one of
the few parish churches in the kingdom possessing
a "lady chapel" still jjcrfect.

Before the Reformation it was styled the prior)'

church of St. Mary Overy, and its early history is
almost lost in the mists of ancient tradition. There
is a curious legend connecting the building of the
original London Bridge with the church of St.
Mary Overy, but it has been much discredited.
The story is related on the authority of Stow,
who chronicled it as the report of the last prior,
Bartholomew Linsted : —

" A ferry being kept in the place where now the
bridge is builded, at length the ferryman and his
wife deceasing, left the same ferry to their only
daughter, a maiden named Mary, who, with the
goods left her by her parents, as also with the profits
of the said ferry, builded an house of Sisters on
the place where now standeth the east part of St.
Mary Overy's Church, above the quire, where she
was buried, unto which house she gave the over-
sight and profits of the ferry. But afterwards the
said house of Sisters being converted into a college
of priests, the priests builded the bridge of timber,
as all the other great bridges of this land were,
and from time to time kept the same in good
reparation ; till at length, considering the great
charges which were bestowed in the same, there
was, by aid of the citizens and others, a bridge
builded with stone."

The story of the miserly old ferryman, Audrey,
Mary's father — how he counterfeited death in order
that his household might forego a day's victuals, as
he never supposed but that their sorrow would
make them fast at least* so long ; and how strangely
he was deceived — has already been told by us.* As
the story, however — regardless of its improbability
—is as closely connected with this venerable fabric
as it is with London Bridge itself, we may be
pardoned for recapitulating some of the main inci-
dents of the tradition. No sooner had the old
man — so runs the story — been decently laid out,
than those about him fell to feasting and making
merry, rejoicing at the death of the old sinner,
who, stretched in apparent death, bore their rioting
for a short time, but at lengtli sprang from his bed,
and, seizing the first weapon at hantl, attacked his
apprentice. The encounter was fatal to him ; and
his daughter, the gentle, fair-liaircd Mary, the heiress
of his wealth, devoted it to the establishment of a
House of Sisters as above mentioned. The house
bore her name of Mary Audrey, with the saintly
prefix ; but in the lajjse of time, Audrey became
corrupted into " Overie." Some old writers, how-
ever, suggest that the religious iiouse was originally
founded in honour of the iiojuilar Saxon saint
.\udrey, or luhcldrcda, of Ely. But a more pro-

• See Vol II., p. 9.

south wark. 3

ST. SAVIOUR'S CHURCH.

bable derivation of the name than either of the
foregoing is from " over the rie," that is " over the
water." Even in these days Londoners north of
the Thames invariably designate the whole of the
southern suburbs as "over the water;" and the
phrase may perhaps be as old as the time of the
building of St. Mary's " over the rie."

Long after the good Mary Audrey (or Overie)
died — if, indeed, she ever lived — a noble lady
named Swithen changed the House of Sisters into
a college for priests; and in 1106 two Norman
knights, William Pont de I'Arche and William
Dauncey, re-founded it as a house for canons of
the Augustine order. Giftard, then Bishop of Win-
chester, built the conventual church and the palace
in Winchester Yard close by. It was in this priory
that the fire broke out in 1 2 1 2, when the greater
part of Southwark was destroyed, and another fire
breaking out simultaneously at the northern end of
London Bridge an immense crowd was enclosed
between the two fires, and 3,000 persons were
burned or drowned. The canons thus burnt out
established a temporary place of worship on the
opposite side of the main road, which they dedi-
cated to St. Thomas, and occupied for about three
years until their own church was repaired.

The church was then dedicated to St. Mary
Magdalen. In 1273, Walter, Archbishop of York,
granted an indulgence of thirty days to all who
should contribute to the rebuilding of the sacred
edifice, and towards the end of the following
century the church was entirely rebuilt. Gower,
the poet, it is stated, contributed a considerable
portion of the funds.

In 1404 Cardinal Beaufort was consecrated to
the see of Winchester, and two years later was
celebrated in this church the marriage of Edmund
Holland, Earl of Kent, with Lucia, eldest daughter
of Barnaby, Lord of Milan. Henry IV. him-
self gave away the bride " at the church door,"
and afterwards conducted her to the marriage
banquet at Winchester Palace. It was in this
church, too, a few years subsequently (1424), that
Jame.s I. of Scotland wedded the daughter of the
Earl of Somerset, and niece of the great Cardinal,
the golden-haired beauty, Joan Beaufort, of whom,
during his imprisonment at Windsor, the royal poet
had become enamoured, doubting, when he first
saw her from his window, whether she was

" A worldly creature,
Or heavenly thing in likeness of nature."

At all events, the king describes her in his verses
as

" The fairest and the freshest yonge flower
That ever I saw, methought, before that hour."

The marriage feast on this occasion, too, was kept
in the great hall of Winchester Palace, and in a
style befitting the munificence of the cardinal.
The marriage, as we are told, was a happy one,
and the bards of Scotland vied with each other in
singing the praises of the queen, and in extolling
her beauty and her conjugal affection. In 1437
James was murdered by his subjects, his brave
queen being twice wounded in endeavouring to save
his life.

At the dissolution of religious houses, in 1539,
the priory of black canons — -for such was that of
St. Mary Overy's — of course shared the general
fate of monastic establishments ; but the last prior,
Bartholomew Linsted, had the good fortune of
obtaining from Henry VIII. a yearly pension of
_;£ioo. The inhabitants of the parishes of St. Mary
Magdalen and St. Margaret-at-Hill— which latter
church stood on the west side of the: High Street,
on the spot till recently occupied by the Town
Hall — purchased, with the assistance of Stephen
Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester, the stately church
of St. Mary. The priory church was also at the
same time purchased from the king, and the two
parishes were united under the title of St. Saviour's,
the priory church having been recognised by the
name of St. Saviour's for nearly thirty years before.
At the same time the churchwardens and vestry
were constituted a " corporation sole." Six years
before that period a dole had been given at the
door of the church, and so great was the crowd and
pressure on that occasion that several persons were
killed. In pre-Reformation times this church was
the scene of many religious ceremonies and public
processions. One of these, conducted with great
pomp and ceremony, is described by Fosbroke ia
his economy of monastic life, as follows : —

" Then two and two they march'd, and loud bells toU'd :
One from a sprinkle holy water flung ;
This bore the relics from a chest of gold,
On arm of that the swinging censor hung ;
Another loud a tinkling hand-bell rung.
Four fathers went that singing monk behind,
Who suited Psalms of Holy David sung ;
Then o'er the cross a stalking sire inclined,
And banners of the church went waving in the wind."

Various alterations and restorations have at
different times been made in the fabric of the
church. The Lady Chapel, at the eastern end, is
a relic of the older edifice. The tower of the
church was repaired in 1689; and in 1822 a
complete restoration of the fine Gothic edifice was
commenced. The brick casings with which gene-
rations of "Goths" had hidden the beautiful archi-
tecture were removed ; groined roof and transepts
were restored, heavy pews were removed from the

22

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

choir, and a circular window of rare beauty added.
But even in this great work the taste of the age, as
represented by the vestry and churchwardens,
interfered ; the noble vista of the " long-drawn
aisle " was broken, and a new and sorry modem
nave constructed in its place.

The edifice is very spacious, and is built on the
plan of a cathedral. In its style of architecture,
excepting its tower, it somewhat resembles Salis-
bury Cathedral. It comprises a nave and aisles,
transepts, a choir wth its aisles, and at the eastern
end, as above stated, the chapel of the Blessed
Virgin, or, as it is more commonly called, the Lady
Chapel. Contiguous, but extending farther east-
ward, was added a small chapel, which in time came
to be called the Bishop's Chapel, from the tomb of
Bishop Andrewes having been placed in its centre.
This latter chapel was entered from the Lady
Chapel under a large pointed arch. The chapel
itself was rather over thirty feet in length, and had
a stone seat on each side, and at the east end.
However, as it was thought to injure the effect of
the eastern elevation of the church, as seen from
the new bridge road, it was taken dovra in the year
1830. A view of the Bishop's Chapel, from the
last sketch that was taken of it, is given in Taylor's
" .\nnals of St. Mary Overy."

At the intersection of the nave, transepts, and
choir, rises a noble tower, 35 feet square and 150
feet in height, resting on four massive pillars
adorned with clustered columns. The sharp-
pointed arches are very lofty. The interior of the
tower is in four storeys, in the uppermost of which
is a fine peal of twelve bells. Externally, the
tower, which is not older than the sixteenth
century, somewhat resembles that of St. Sepulchre's
Church, close by Newgate. It is divided into two
parts, with handsome pointed windows, in two
storeys, on each front ; it has tall pinnacles at each
comer, and the battlements are of flint, in squares
or chequer work.

This tower has been in great jeopardy on more
than one occasion, once through the vibration
caused by the ringing of the bells, when damage
was done to the extent of several thousand pounds ;
and more recently, when the south-eastern pinnacle
was struck down by lightning, and fell upon tiie roof
of the south transept, doing considerable damage.

We are told that, during and after the progress
of the (jreat Fire of London, Hollar busied him-
self from his old and favourite point of view, the
summit of this tower, in delineating the appearance
of the city as it lay in ruins, which is so well
known to us by the hcl]) of the engraver's art.

The western front of the church, as well as its

southern side, was restored, or rather fresh-cased
with rubble-stone, in a style that reflected but little
credit on the architect. In each corner rose a
slight octagonal tower. In the buttresses on each
side of the large window flintwork was ornament-
ally inserted. Over the door, which was in three
compartments, in pointed arches, was a plain
sunken entablature, occupying the space formerly
devoted to a range of small pillars, forming niches,
the centre having a bracket, on which is supposed
to have stood the figure of the Virgin. From the
repairs and alterations that had from time to time
taken place in the fabric, the beauty of the interior,
especially in the nave, had been much impaired.
But it had its admirers, and, indeed, it was
proposed to restore the nave and make the church
into a cathedral, as a memorial to the late Bishop
Wilberforce.

The nave, as it then existed, was awkwardly
reached from the transept by a flight of several
steps, while a huge screen blocked up the view
from east to west. The roof of the^nave originally
was supported by twenty-six columns, thirteen
on each side, of which the four nearest the
western end were of the massy round Norman
character. The altar-piece, or screen, at the
east end of the nave formed a complete separa-
tion between this part of the structure and the
choir. In 1891, however, the modern and taste-
less nave was taken down, and the erection of
a new and substantial nave commenced by Sir
A. Blomfield, the Prince of Wales laying the
first stone, with the view of the ultimate conversion
of the sacred edifice into a cathedral for a
suffragan Bishop.

From the great supporting columns of the tower
to the altar-screen at the east end of the choir run
five lofty pointed arches, enriched with mouldings,
and the groined roof, of stone, is exceedingly fine.
The screen dividing the choir from the Lady
Chapel is rich in its carving and decoration. On
the east side of the south transept formerly stood
the chapel of St. Mary Magdalen, founded and
built by Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Winchester.
This chapel was thus described by Mr. Nightingale
in 1818: — "The chapel itself is a very plain
erection. It is entered on the south, through a
large pair of folding doors leading down a small
flight of steps. The ceiling has nothing peculiar
in its character ; nor are the four i)illars su])porting
the roof, and the uneejual arches leading into the
south aisle, in the least calculated to convey any
idea of grandeur or feeling of veneration. These
arches have been cut through in a very clumsy
manner, so that scarcely any vestige of the ancient

Soulhwark.]

DESECRATION OF THE LADY CHAPEL.

33

church of St. Mary Magdalen now remains. A
small doorway and windows, however, are still
visible at the east end of this chapel ; the west end
formerly opened into the south transept ; but that'
also is now walled up, except a part, which leads
to the gallery there. There are in diflPerent parts
niches which once held the holy water, by which
the pious devotees of former ages sprinkled their
foreheads on their entrance before the altar. I am
not aware that any otiier remains of the old church
are now visible in this chapel. Passing through
the eastern end of the south aisle, a pair of gates
leads into the Virgin Mary's Chapel." A corre-
spondent of the Mirror, writing in 1832, says that
it was this chapel, and not the Lady Chapel as
had been previously stated, that contained the
gravestone of one Bishop Wickham, who, however,
was not the famous builder of Windsor Castle in
the time of Edward HL, but who died in 1595,
the same year in which he was translated from
the see of Lincoln to that of Winchester. " His
gravestone," he adds, " now lying exposed in the
churchyard, marks the south-east corner of the
site of the aforesaid Magdalen Chapel." This
chapel was pulled down in 1822. Amongst the
alterations and additions consequent on its removal
are the present windows and doorway of the
transept. The angle formed by the north transept
and the choir was formerly the Chapel of St. John,
now appropriated as the vestry. Beyond the
choir-screen, as already mentioned, is the Lady
Chapel, which was restored by Mr. Gwilt in 1832 ;
its four gables and groined roof are very fine. In
Queen Mary's time it was used as a consistorial
court by Bishop Gardiner, and here Bishop Hooper
and John Rogers were tried as heretics, and con-
demned to the stake.

After the parish had obtained the grant of the
church, the Lady Chapel was let to one Wyat, a
baker, who converted it into a bakehouse. He
stopped up the two doors which communicated
with the aisles of the church, and the two which
opened into the chancel, and which, though visible,
long remained masoned up. In 1607 Mr. Henry
Wilson, tenant of the Chapel of the Holy Virgin,
found himself inconvenienced by a tomb " of a
certain Cade," and applied to the vestry for its
removal, which, as recorded in the parish books,
was very " friendly " consented to, " making the
place up again in any reasonable sort."

The following curious particulars of the Lady
Chapel appear in Strype's edition of Stow's
Survey : — " It is now called the Naa Chapel ; and
indeed, though very old, it now may be called a
new one x because newly redeemed from such use

and employment as, in respect of that it was built
to (divine and religious duties), may very well be
branded with the style of ■wretched, base, and un-
worthy. For that which, before this abuse, was, and
is now, a fair and beautiful chapel, was, by those
that were then the corporation, (S:c., leased and let
out, and this house of God made a bakehouse.

"Two very fair doors, that from the two side-
aisles of the chancel of the church, and two, that
through the head of the chancel went into it, were
lathed, daubed, and dammed up : the fair pillars
were ordinary posts, against which they piled
billets and bavins. In this place they had their
ovens ; in that, a bolting-place ; in that, their
kneading-trough ; in another, I have heard, a hog's
trough. For the words that were given me were
these : — ' This place have I hiotvn a hog-sty ; in
another, a store-house, to store up their hoarded- meal;
and, in all of it, something of this sordid kind and
condition.' "

The writer then goes on to mention the four
persons, all bakers, to whom in succession it was
let by the corporation ; and adds, that one part
was turned into a starch-house.

In this state it continued till the year 1624,
when the vestry restored it to its original condition,
at an expense of two hundred pounds. In the
course of two centuries it again became ruinous ;
and in 1832 a public subscription was commenced,
and the beautiful chapel was thoroughly restored.
The roof is divided into nine groined arches,
supported by six octangular pillars in two rows,
having small circular columns at the four points.
In the east end, on the north side, are three
lancet-shaped windows, forming one great window,
divided by slender pillars, and having mouldings
with dog-tooth ornaments. At the north-east
corner of the chapel, a portion had been divided
off from the rest by a wooden enclosure, in which
were a table, desk, and elevated seat. This part
was the Bishop's court ; but it was usual to give
this name to the whole chapel, in which the Bishop
of Winchester, even almost down to the time of the
above-mentioned restoration, held his court, and
in which were also held the visitations of the
deanery of Southwark.

At the east end of the Lady Chapel, as stated
above, was Bishop Andrewes' Chapel, which was
ascended by two steps, and was so called from the
tomb of Dr. Lancelot Andrewes, Bishop of Win-
chester, standing in the centre of it. The Bishop's
Chapel having been wholly taken down, this fine
monument has been removed into the Lady
Chapel. The Bishop is represented the size of
life, in a recumbent posture, and dressed in his

24

OLD AND NEW LONDOISf.

(Southward.

robes, as prelate of the Order of the Garter.
Originally this tomb had a handsome canopy,
supported by four black marble pillars ; but the
roof of the Bishop's Chapel falling in, and the
chapel itself being much defaced by fire, in 1676,
the canopy was broken, and not repaired. In

the Bible. He was bom in London in 1555, and
received the rudiments of his education first at the
free school of the Coopers' Company, in Ratcliff
Highway, and afterwards at the Merchant Taylors'
School. He subsequently graduated at Pembroke
College, Cambridge. He soon became widely

CONSISTORY COURT, ST. SAVIOUR'S CHURCH, 182O.

taking down the monument, at the time of the
demolition of the Bishop's Chapel, a heavy leaden
coffin, containing the remains of the deceased
prelnte, and marked with his initials " L. A.," was
found built up within the tomb ; and on the re-
erection of the monument against the west wall of
the Lady Chapel, the coffin was carefully replaced
in its original cell.

Dr. Andrewes, a prelate distinguished by his
learning and piety, was one of the translators of

known for his great learning ; and, in due course,
found a patron in the Earl of Huntingdon, whose
chaplain he became. After holding for a short
time the living of Chcam, near Epsom, in Surrey,
he was appointed Vicar of St. Giles's, Cripplegate,
and in a short time after, prebendary and resi-
dentiary of St. Paul's, and also prebendary of the
collegiate church of Southwell. In these several
capacities he distinguished himself as a dilii'ent
and excellent preacher, and he read divinity

SoutKwarlc-]

BISHOP andrewes.

as

lectures three days in the week at St. Paul's during
term time. Upon the death of Dr. Fulke, he was
chosen master of Pembroke Hall, to which college
he afterwards became a considerable benefactor.
He was next appointed one of the chaplains in
ordinary to Queen Elizabeth, who took great delight
in his preaching, and promoted him to the deanery
of Westminster, in 1601. He refused a bishopric
in this reign, because he would not submit to the

interest, or solicitations on the part of himself or
his friends : it is likewise observed, that though
he was a privy councillor in the reigns of James I.
and Charles I., he interfered very little in temporal
concerns ; but in all affairs relative to the Church,
and the duties of his office, he was remarkably
diligent and active. After a long life of honour
and tranquillity, in which he enjoyed the esteem
of three successive sovereigns, the friendship of

Jul IN GOWEK.

spoliation of the ecclesiastical revenues. In the
next, however, he had no cause for such scruple,
and having published a work in defence of King
James's book on the " Rights of Sovereigns,"
against Cardinal Bellarmine, he was advanced to
the bishopric of Chichester, and at the same time
appointed lord-almoner. He was translated to the
see of Ely in 1 609 ; and in the same year he was
sworn of the king's privy council in England, as
he was afterwards of Scotland, upon attending his
majesty to that kingdom.

When he had sat nine years in the see of Ely, he
was translated to that of Winchester, and also
appointed dean of the royal chapel ; and to his
honour it is recorded of him, that these prefer-
ments were conferred upon him without any court
843

all men of letters, his contemporaries, and the
veneration of all who knew him. Bishop Andrewes
died at Winchester House, in Southw-ark, in Septem-
ber, 1626, at the age of seventy-one.

One of the most ancient memorials preserved in
the church is an oaken cross-legged effigy of one
of the Norman knights who founded the priory ; it
is in a low recess in the north wall of the choir.
But better known is the monument on the east
side of the south transept, to John Gower, the
poet, and his wife. " This tomb," says Cunning-
ham, " was originally erected on the north side of
the church, where Gower founded a chantry. It
was removed to its present site, and repaired and
coloured, in 1832, at the expense of the Duke of
Sutherland, whose family claimed relationship or

jfi

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

descent from the poet Gower." But, according to
the Athenmim (No. 1,537, p. 68), " Sir H. Nicolas
and Dr. Pauli have shown that the family of the
Duke of Sutherland and Lord Ellesmere must
relinquish all pretension to being related to, or

TOMB OF JOHN GOWER IN ST. S.VVIOLk's CHUKCH.

even descended from, John Gower. They have
hitherto depended solely upon the possession of
the MS. of the ' Confessio Amantis,' which was
supposed to have been presented to an ancestor
by the poet ; but it turns out, on the authority of
Sir Charles Young, that it was the very copy of
the work which the author laid at the feet of
King Henry IV. while he was yet Harry of
Hereford, Lancaster, and Derby ! "

Gower, as we have stated above, contributed
largely towards the rebuilding of the church at the
close of the fourteenth century. He was certainly
a rich man for a poet, and he gave, doubtless,
large sums during the progress of the work ; but it
is absurd to suppose, as some have imagined, that
the sacred edifice was wholly built by his money.
Lest any such foolish idea should be entertained.
Dr. Mackay, in his " Thames and its Tributaries,"
places on record the following witty epigram : —

" This church was rebuilt by John Gower, the rhymer.
Who in Richard's gay court was a fortunate climber ;
Should any one start, 'tis but right he should know it.
Our wight was a lawyer as well as a poet."

The fact is that Gower was a "fortunate
climber," not only in the court of Richard, but in
that of the Lancastrian king who succeeded him.
Like many other poets, he " worshipped the rising
sun," and his reward was that, to use his own
words, " the king laid a charge upon him," namely,
to write a poem. It is commonly supposed that he
was poet laureate to both of the above-mentioned
kings ; but if this was the case, the post was its
own reward— at all events, no salary is known to
have been attached to it.

Gower is, perhaps, the earliest poet who has
sung the praises of the Thames by name. He
relates in one of his quaint poems how that being
on the river in his boat, he met the royal barge
containing King Henry IV. : —

"As I came nighe,
Out of my bote, when he me syghe (saw),
Hr bade me come into his barge,
And when I was willi him at large,

Amongst other thynges said,
He liad a charge upon me laid."

St. John's Chapel, adjoining the north transept of
this church, having been burnt and nearly destroyed
in the thirteenth century, was sumptuously rebuilt
by Gower almost at his sole cost ; he founded alsc
a chantry there, endowing it with money for a
mass to be said daily for the repose of his soul,
and an " obit " to be performed on the morrow
after the feast of St. Gregory. In this chapel, we
are quaintly told, " he prepared for his bones a
resting, and there, somewhat after the old fashion,
he lieth right sumptuously buried, w-ith a garland
on his head, in token that he in his life-daies
flourished freshly in literature and science." The
stone effigy on his tomb represented the poet with
long auburn hair reaching down to his shoulders
and curling up gracefully, a small curled beard,
and on his head a chaplet of red roses (Leland
says that there was a " wreath of joy " interspersed
with the roses) ; the robe was of green damask
reaching down to the feet ; a collar of SS. in gold
worn round the neck, and under his head effigies of
the three chief books which he had compiled, viz.,
the " Speculum Meditantis," the " Vox Clamantis,"
and the " Confessio Amantis." On the wall hard
by were painted effigies of three virtues — Charity,
Mercy, and Pity — with crowns on their heads, and
each bearing her own device in her hand. That of
Charity ran thus :■

" En toy qui es fils de Dieu le Pere,
Sauve soit qui gist soubs cest piere."

That of Mercy thus : —

" O bone Jesu, fais la mercie
A I'ame dont le corps gist icy."

Whilst tliat of Pity ran as follows : —

"P.ir ta Pitie, Jesu, regarde
lit met cest aime en sauve garde."

Not far off was also a tablet with this inscription: —
" Whoso prayeth for the soul of John Gower, as
oft as he does it, shall have M. D. days of pardon. "
Gower's wife, we may add, was buried near him.

We know little enough of Gower — the " moral
Gower," as Chaucer calls him — except that he came
of a knightly family connected with Yorkshire, and
that he owned property not far from London, to
the south of the Thames, and probably in Kent.
Though no lover of abuses, he was a firm and
zealous supporter of the ancient Church, and
opposed to the drastic jiolicy of those who from
time to time endeavoured to ui)Iiold the standard
of reform in matters of faith. Henry IV., before
he came to the throne, conferred on him the
Lancastrian badge of the Silver Swan.

!jouihwark.]

JOHN GOWER.

27

" Of the rest of his life," writes Dr. R. Pauli, in
his " Pictures of Old England," " we know, in
truth, very little. It was not till his old age, when
his hair was grey, that, wearying of his solitary
state, he took a wife in the person of one Agnes
Groundolf, to whom he was married on the 25 th of
January, 1397. His very comprehensive will does
not mention any children, but it makes ample
provision for the faithful companion and nurse
of his latter years. After prolonged debility and
sickness, he lost his eye-sight in the year 1401,
and was then compelled to lay aside his pen for
ever. He died in the autumn of 1408, when
upwards of eighty years of age. He lies buried in
St. Saviour's Church, near the southern side of
London Bridge ; and we find from his last will
that he had been connected in several ways with
London, through his estates, which were all in
the neighbourhood of the City. St. John's Chapel,
in the church already referred to, still contains
the monument which he had himself designed,
and which, notwithstanding the many subsequent
renovations which it has undergone, is tolerably
well preserved. He lies clothed in the long closely-
buttoned habit of his day, with his order on his
breast, and his coat of arms by his side ; but
whether the face, with its long locks, and the
wreath around the head, is intended as a portrait,
it is difficult to say. Greater significance attaches

. . . to the three volumes on which his head
is resting, and which may be said to symbolise his
life — the ' Speculum Meditantis,' the ' Vox Cla-
mantis,' and 'Confessio Amantis.'"

Gower's works maintained their popularity long
beyond the age in which his lot was cast, as may
be gathered from the fact that his was the mine
from which Shakespeare drew the materials for
his Pericles, Prince of Tyre. In 1402, when blind
and full of years, he followed his old friend
Chaucer to the tomb. Prosaic and unpoetical as
is now the aspect of South wark, there is no spot in
this great metropolis more worthy of being called
the Poet's Comer. Chaucer, as we shall presently
see, has conferred upon the Tabard Inn a literary
immortality. Shakespeare himself dwelt for some
years in a narrow street close by the church of
St. Mary Overy ; there he wrote many of his
great dramas, while the neighbouring Bankside
witnessed their performance. Edmund Shakespeare
was, as the register-book of the parish tells us,
a "player," no doubt through the connection of
his brother with the Globe Theatre hard by. He
was the immortal poet's youngest brother. The
register at Stratford-on-Avon tells us that he was
baptised there on the 3rd of May, 1580; that of

St. Saviour's records the fact that he was buried
here on the last day of the year 1607. So
probably William Shakespeare stood by his grave.
Such is the brief summary of all that is known to
history of Edmund Shakespeare ; " and," as Mr.
Dyce remarks, "since his connection with the stage
is ascertained from no other source, he probably
was not distinguished in his profession."

Fletcher, the friend and fellow play-writer with
Shakespeare, died of the plague of London, in
August, 1625, at the age of forty-six, and was
buried in this church. He had survived his friend
and literary partner, Beaumont — with whom he
lived at Bankside — ^just nine years. John Fletcher
was a son of the Rev. Dr. Richard Fletcher, who
was successively Bishop of Bristol, of Worcester,
and of London under Queen Bess. The names of
Beaumont and Fletcher appear as jointly responsible
for upwards of fifty dramas, but there are reasons
for thinking that Fletcher had not much to do
with more than half that number. The circum-
stances of his death are thus described by Sii
John Aubrey: — "In the great plague of 1625, a
knight of Norfolk or Suffolk invited him into the
country. He stayed in London but to make him-
self a suit of clothes, and when it was making, fell
sick and died. This I heard from the tailor, who
is now a very old man and clerk of St. Marie
Overie."

" From the proximity of this church to the
Globe Theatre and others on Bankside," writes
Dr. Mackay, in his " Thames and its Tributaries,"
" many of the players of Shakespeare's time who
resided in the neighbouring alleys found a final
resting-place here when their career was over.
Among others, unhappily, Philip Massinger, steeped
in poverty to the very lips, died in some hovel
adjacent, and was buried like a pauper at the
expense of the parish." Born at Salisbury, in the
year 1584, and having been educated at Alban
Hall, Oxford, Philip Massinger, the playwright Jtnd
poet, and the friend and immediate successor of
Shakespeare, came to London to seek his bread
by his pen, which furnished nearly forty plays for
the stage. But in spite of their great celebrity at
the time when they were written and performed,
few of them are known to the present race of play-
goers. A New Way to Pay Old Debts is occa-
sionally performed ; and the Fatal Dowry and
Riches (altered from The City Madam) have been
found amongst modern revivals. Massinger's last
days were probably spent in Southwark, though
accounts differ as to the latter portion of his career.
He died in 1639, for the register in that year
records, " buried, Philip Massinger, a stranger "— -

28

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Sauthwanc.

that is, a non-parishioner. It is probable, therefore,
that he wished in death to be joined with some of
those who had been his fellow craftsmen. His grave
is unmarked by any stone or other memorial.

Among the remaining monuments in St. Saviour's
Church is one bearing the following epitaph on a
member of the Grocers' Company : —

" Garrett some call him, but that was too high ;
His name is Garrard who now here doth lie.
Weep not for him, for he is gone before
To heaven, where there are grocers many more."

Another epitaph to a girl ten years of age
contains this quaint thought, borrowed from an
earthly court : — ■

"Such grace the King of kings bestowed upon her
That now she lives with Him a maid of honour."

Near the tomb of the poet Gower is another
which exhibits a diminutive effigy of a man, an
emaciated figure, in a winding-sheet, lying on a
marble sarcophagus. At the back is a black tablet
with the following inscription in letters of gold : —

" Here vnder lyeth the body of William Emerson,
who lived and died an honest man. He departed ovt of this
life the 27th of June, 1575, in the year of his age 92. Vx
SVM SIC ERIS."

A curious effigy is that lying on the floor on
the east side of the north transept, which has been
supposed by some persons to be that of the old
" ferrym.xn " above spoken of. Grose has inserted
a representation of this figure in his "Antiquities
of England and Wales," observing that it is a
skeleton-like figure, of which the usual story is told
that the person thereby represented attempted to
fast for forty days in imitation of Christ, but died in
the attempt, having first reduced himself to that
appearance. There is also an engraving of this
effigy in J. T. Smith's " Antiquities of London and
its ICnvirons," 1791, 4to. Be this figure, however,
who or what it may, at all events its monument has
long survived him ; whether he carried passengers
over the river Thames, or was occupied in teaching
others how to cross that last fatal river which, as
John Banyan so quaintly says, " hath no bridge,"
can matter but little to us now.

Till 1883 St. Saviour's differed in point of
clerical administration from almost every other
church in the kingdom, for it had neither rector
nor vicar, nor what is popularly called a " curate,"
but under a peculiar grant the tithes were secured
to the churchwardens for the maintenance of two
" chaplains " or " preachers." The parishioners
elected their own preachers, and the parish election
vied in .scandals with borough elections. In
consequence it was agreed by the more respectable
portion to cede the right to the Bishop.

There is an interesting view of St. Mary Overy's
Church among the etchings of Hollar ; it was
worked at Antwerp in 1647. The view is taken
from the north, and shows a porch leading into
the north aisle of the chancel ; there is also an
ugly side aisle of Jacobean architecttire running
on the north side parallel to the nave. Another
etching by the same artist, of wliich we give a
copy on page 30, taken from the other side of the
church, shows a glimpse of St. Paul's and the City
across the river. Hollar's studies of buildings,
his little landscape and water-side etchings, are
always charming. He is an excellent delineator
of architecture, his drawing and perspective being
admirably executed. He can render landscape
also with great subtilty, giving, for instance, in a
small sketch of a few inches square the knolls
and hollows of a piece of hilly river-bank with
marvellous truth and naturalness. Some one has
written of Hollar that, " whether dealing with brick
and stone, or fields and streams, he is always
dexterous and exact ; and if we w^ere asked to name
the principal characteristic of his work, we should
say it was a perfectly simple and earnest striving
after truth. To some modern etchers, who have
all sorts of marvellous methods of their own, who
cover the paper with an incomprehensible chance-
medley of black lines and call it 'green moon-
light sleeping on a bank,' or something of the sort.
Hollar's art may appear but homely, for it is
only the art of transferring what was before him
to paper, so that others may see it as he saw it."

The antiquarian author of "Chronicles of London
Bridge " tells us that in his day, when the church-
wardens and vestrymen of St. Mary Overy's met
for convivial purposes, one of their earliest toasts
was that of their clTurch's ])atron saint, under the
irreverent name of " Old Moll." It is to be hoped
that such gross irreverence is now at an end.

St. Saviour's and its neighbourhood have, how-
ever, much historic interest on (luite another score;
for adjoining the northern side of St. Saviour's
Church, and on the site of the Cloisters, Sir
Anthony Browne, Viscount Montague, built after
the Dissolution a handsome mansion, which gave
name to the still existing Montague Close. In the
memorable year 1605, Lord Monteaglewas residing
there when he received the anonymous letter
advising him " as you tender your life, to devise
you some excuse to shift off your attendance at
this Parliament, for God and man have concurred
to punish the wickedness of this time." The sus-
picions excitcQ f)y this mysterious warning led to
the discovery of the Gunpowder Plot. Montcagle
was rewarded by a grant of ^£'200 per annum in

Southwark.]

WINCHESTER HOUSE.

20

land and a pension of ;^Soo in hard cash ; and
in remembrance of the great event, persons then
and afterwards residing in Montague Close were
exempted from actions for debi or trespass. The

place became, in fact, a sort of minor Sanctuary,
the privileges of which grew ultimately to be such
a public nuisance that they were suppressed by the
strong arm of the law.

CHAPTER IV.
SOUTHWARK (<ro«/;«;<fl/).— WINCHESTER HOUSE, BARCLAY'S BREWERY, &c.

"Kings and heroes here were guests^
III stately hall at solemn feasts:
But now no dais, nor halls remain.
Nor fretted window's gorgeous pane.

No fragment of a roof remains

To echo back their wassail strains."— .S"i> IV. Scott^

^ Kenilworih.'

Stow's Description of Winchester House— Park Street Chapel— Marriage Feast of James I. of Scotland at Winchester House— The Palace
attacked by the Insurgents under Sir Thomas Wyatt— John, Duke of Finland, lodged here— The Palace sold to the Presbyterians, and
turned into a Prison for the Royalists— Its Recovery by the Bishop of Winchester— Remains of the Old Palace — The "Stews" on the
Eankside— " Holland's Leaguer "— " Winchester Ijirds "—Old Almshouses— Messrs. Barclay and Perkins's Brewery— Its Early History— Mr.
and Mrs. Thrale— Dr. Johnson's Intimacy with the Thrales— Purchase of the Brewery by Mr. David Barclay- Origin of the Firm of Barclay
.and Perkins- Mrs. Piozzi, and her Literary Acquaintances— Account of the various Processes of Malting, Brewing, &c.— The Brewery
described— Monster Vats— Attack on General Haynau— Richard Ba.\ter-Zoar Street Chapel— Oliver Goldsmith— Holland Street— Falcon
GKass Works — The " Falcon " Tavern— Hopton's Almshouses— Messrs. Potts' Vinegar Works— St. Peter's Church— St. Saviour's Grammar
School — Improvements in Southwark — Southwark Street — The Hop Exchange.

The site of the Priory of St. Mary Overy, and of
Winchester House, the palace of the Bishops of
Winchester, adjoins the western end of the
nave of St. Saviour's Church, and extends towards
Southwark Bridge ; it is now occupied by various
wharves, warehouses, manufactories, and other
buildings, among them being the new Bridge House
Hotel, which opens on the main street, close by
the foot of London Bridge. Of the priory we
have already spoken in the preceding chapter.
\Vinchester House was built early in the twelfth
century, by Walter Giffard, Bishop of Winchester,
on land held of the prior of Bermondsey. Stow,
in his " Chronicles," mentions it as being in his
time "a very fair house, well repaired, with a large
wharf and landing-place, called the Bishop of
Winchester's Stairs." It was, in fact, a stately
palace, with gardens, fountains, fish-ponds, and an
extensive park — long known as Southwark Park —
which reached back nearly as far, in the direction
of Lambeth, as Gravel Lane, and which is still
kept in remembrance by "Park" Street. In New
Park Street is — or rather was — the chapel in which
the late C. H. Spurgeon first became known as
a popular preacher. The congregation formerly
assembling in the Baptist meeting-house in Carter
Lane, Tooley Street, migrated to New Park Street
Chapel in 1833, on the demolition of their old
chapel to make room for the approaches to new
London Bridge ; and here they continued till,
under the pastorate of Mr. Spurgeon, they migrated
to the music-hall in the Surrey Gardens, Newington,

and finally to the Metropolitan Tabernacle. The
chapel in Park Street has since become converted
to business purposes, and has been made to serve
as a store-room or goods depot.

Winchester Yard, between St. Saviour's Church
and Messrs. Barclay and Co.'s brewery, in Park
Street, occupies the place of the court-yard of the
old palace ; and Messrs. Pott's extensive vinegar
works, on part of the site of the park, are, or were
till lately, held under lease direct from the see of
Winchester.

Cardinal Beaufort lived here in the early part
of the fifteenth century, whilst holding the im-
portant see of Winchester. In his time the great
hall of the palace, which ran east and west parallel
with the river, was the scene of a splendid banquet ;
for here took place the marriage-feast on the occa-
sion of the matrimonial alliance of James L of
Scotland with the Lady Joan Beaufort, daughter
of the Earl of Somerset, as stated in the previous
chapter. But the palace witnessed at times other
scenes besides those of festivity ; for we read of
great "brawls" taking place between the cardinal's
servants and the citizens at the Bridge Gate. Old
Stow describes a disgraceful .scene which took place
in Winchester House, when the insurgents against
the government of Queen Mary, under Sir Thomas
■Wyatt, had entered Southwark, on the 3rd of
February, 1554. Wyatt's intention was to have
entered the City by way of London Bridge, as we
have already seen ; but notwithstanding that the
citizens of London had cut down the drawbridge,

3»

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[So^Shwark.

the inhabitants of the borough received him well.
Sir Thomas issued a proclamation that no soldier
of his should take anything without paying for it ;
notwithstanding which, some of them attacked the
Bishop of Winchester's house, made havoc of his
goods, and cut to pieces all his books, " so that
men might have gone up to their knees in the
leaves so torn out." Wyatt stayed here only two
or three days, when the inhabitants, finding that

turned the episcopal palace into a prison for the
royalists; and in 1649 it was sold for ^4,380
to one Thomas Walker, of Cambervvell. It was
recovered by the Bishop of Winchester, at the
Restoration, but was not again used as a residence.
Until the time of the civil wars, the Bishops of
Winchester resided here during the sitting of Par-
liament ; but afterwards they removed to Chelsea,
where, as we have seen,* they had another house

VIEW OF ST. MARY OVERY. From an F.lchint; hy Hollar, 1647. (See f age 18.)

the Governor of the Tower of London had planted
several pieces of ordnance against the foot of the
bridge and on the steeples of St. Olave and St.
Mary Overy, became alarmed, and desired Sir
Thomas to leave them, which he did.

The Swedish envoy, John, Duke of Finland, was
lodged in the Bishop of Winchester's palace when
he fame to solicit the hand of Queen Elizabeth
for his elder brother, Eric, the son and heir of the
King of Sweden. He went in state to visit the
Queen at Greenwich ; but his father's death re-
called him to Sweden.

Bishop Lancelot Andrewes, as wc have already
stated, died at Winchester House in 1626, and was
carried hence to his last resting-place in St. Saviour's
Church. Twenty years later, the Presbyterians

provided for them under the sanction of an Act of
Parliament in 1661. A part of the palace was
standing, occupied as tenements and warehouses,
till within the last few years, a fire which occurred
in August, 1S14, having destroyed some of the sur-
rounding buildings, and brought to view a portion
of the old hall, with a magnificent circular window.
Allen, in his " History of Surrey," published in
1S29, says, "Vain would be the attempt to deter-
mine the extent and arrangement of this palace
from its present remains. The site was probably
divided into two or more grand courts, the prin-
cijial of which appears to have had its range of
state apartments fronting the river; and part of this

• See Vol v., p. 53.

32

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

range is now almost the only elevation that can
be traced. Though its external decorations on the
north or river front have been either destroyed or
bricked up, yet in the other, facing the south, are
many curious doorways and windows in various
styles, from that of the Early Pointed down to
the era of Henry VIIL, but wofuUy mutilated, and
concealed by sheds, stables, and warehouses."
What little remained of the palace after the fire
above mentioned was \ery soon considerably
diminished. The great wall, which divided the
hall from the other apartments, with the large
circular window, some fourteen feet in diameter,
was built against in the early part of 1828. There
was likewise remaining a doorway, in the spandrils
of which appeared the arms of Bishop Gardiner,
and the same impaling those of the see of Win-
chester. A correspondent of the Gentleman's Maga-
zine, writing at the above period, observes that
"this doorway is connected with, and, in fact, led
into, a range of buildings shown in Hollar's ' "View
of London,' circa 1660, branching southward of
the hall to a considerable distance, much of which
is still standing."

The antiquary Pennant, whilst pretending to
do nothing of the kind, insinuates that the Bishops
of \\'inchestcr and Rochester, and the Abbots
of St. Augustine's, Canterbury, Lewes, Hyde,
Waverley, and Battel, had their town residences
here on account of their adjoining the Bordello or
" Stews " on the Bankside. These •" stews " com-
prised nearly twenty houses along the river-side,
and were licensed under certain regulations con-
firmed by Act of Parliament.

The houses, which were indeed a most unsavoury
adjunct to Southwark, were nothing more nor less
than a collection of public brothels, leased from
the Bishops of Winchester by various persons, one
of whom was no other than Sir \Villiam \\'alworth,
who struck down Wat Tyler and thus gave the
dagger to the City arms. We read that, " on
Thursday the Feast of Corpus Christi, June 13th,
1381, in the morning the Commons of Kent brake
down the stew-houses near to London Bridge, at
that time in the hands of the power of Flanders,
who had farmed them of the Mayor of London.
.\fter which they went to London Bridge, in the
liopes to have entered the City; but the mayor
(tlie famous Sir William Walworth) coming thilher
before, fortified the place, caused the bridge to be
drawn up, and fastened a great chaine of yTon
acrosse to restraine their entry." Thus wrote
^tow, and the same story is told in other words by
the old chronicler, Thomas of Walsingham.
y\s far back as T162, some Parliamcntarv

" Ordinances " were issued, " touching the govern-
ment of the Stewholders in Southwark, under the
direction of the Lord Bishop of Winchester ; " the
purpose of which seems to have been to restore
the state of things there, " accordinge to the ovide
customes that hath been vscd and accustomed
tyme out of mynde." These regulations were
numerous ; no single woman was to be kept against
her will, and all were " to be voyded out of the
lordship " on Sundays and other holidays, ^\"hen
the ordinances were first enjoined, the number of
stewhouses was eighteen ; but in the reign of
Henry VH., when some fresh regulations were
made, it was reduced to twelve. One of the
houses, says Pennant, but he gives no authority for
the statement, bore the sign of the "Cardinal's Hat."
Cardinal's Cap Alley is, however — or, at all events,
was till lately — to be found in the neighbourhood.
If the holders of the houses broke certain whole-
some rules which were issued respecting them,
they were committed to the episcopal prison of the
Clink, at the corner of Maid Lane. This prison
was removed in 1745 to Deadman's Place, Bank-
side (so named from the number buried there
during the great plague), but was burnt down in
the riots of 1780, and no other prison has since
taken its place. The poor women living in these
houses, though licensed by the bishops, were not
allowed Christian burial, but were thrown when
dead into unconsecrated graves at a spot called the
Cross Bones, at the corner of Redcross Street.
Henry VH. closed these dens of infamy, but they
were soon opened again, though his son and
successor finally cleared them out, having issued
a proclamation enjoining his subjects "to avoide
the abominable place called the Stewes." *

In Holland Street, at the end of Bankside, near
Blackfriars Bridge, was another notorious " stew "
frequented by King James I. and his court;
amongst others by the royal favourite, George
Villiers, as we learn from a little tract entitled
" Holland's Leaguer." It is recorded that " many
of the inhabitants of the Bankside, especially those
who lived ill the stews adjoining the palace of the
Bisiiops of \Vinchester, were known throughout
] -ondon by the court term of the ' Winchester
Birds.' Low players also, then ranking (not,
perhaps, (juite undeservingly) with these and other
similar characters, under the conmion designation
of vagabonds, flocked together to the same spot,
together with fraudulent bankrupts, swindlers,
debtors, and all sorts of persons who had mis-
understandings with the law. Here in formei

' Sec "Stews in Bankside," in the /7n/rV"arra;( Afagnzin(,Vo\. Il.jp. 70

South wark.]

MESSRS. BARCLAY AND PERKINS S BREWERY.

33

years stood the ' Mint ' and the ' CUnk ; ' and
here in the present day (1S40) stands the privileged
King's Bench, within whose 'Rules' are con-
gregated the same vicious and demoralised class
of people that always inhabited it. ' Stews ' also
still abound, and penny theatres, where the jier-
formers are indeed ' vagabonds,' and the audience
thieves." Thus wrote Charles Mackay, in his
agreeable work, " The Thames and its Tributaries,"
as lately as 1840. Things, however, have much
improved since that day— in some respects, at
any rate.

HALL OF WINCHESTER HOUSE.
{From ati Etching by Hollar, 1647.)

In Deadman's Place, on the south-west side of
the Borough market, were almshouses for sixteen
poor persons, which were founded in 15S4, by
Thomas Cure, and called Cure's College. Thomas
Cure was saddler to EdWrd VI., Mary, and Eliza-
beth, and was also M.P. for Southwark, and joint-
founder of the Grammar School.

Another cluster of almshouses close by, in Soap
Yard, were built and endowed by the retired actor,
Edward AUeyn, of whom we shall have more to
say when we come to Dulwich College. Alleyn's
almshouses have been rebuilt at Norwood. Alleyn
directed by his will (1626) that his executors should
within two years of his death erect ten almshouses
in this parish for five poor men and five poor
women, who should be drafted hence, as vacancies
occurred, into his college at Dulwich. The alms-
houses were accordingly " built on part of an en-
closure called the Soap Yard belonging to the
College of the Poor." The College of the Poor
was founded by letters patent of Queen Elizabeth
in 1584, and was largely endowed. It provided a
home and sustenance for sixteen poor persons, one
of whom was to act as warden and read prayers

daily. In 1685 Henry Jackson founded alms-
houses in Southwark for two women, with twenty
pence a week each ; and sundry others of a like
nature were founded in different parts of the parish.
St. Saviour's is, in fact, particularly rich in bene-
factions. According to the " Account of Public
Charities in England and Wales," published in
1828, it would appear that the annual income of
the various charities of this parish amounted to
nearly ;£'2, 700.

Between St. Saviour's Church and Southwark
Bridge Road, with its principal entrance in Park
Street, is the renowned brewery of Messrs. Barclay
and Perkins. Southwark held a reputation for
strong ale from very early times. We have met
somewhere with an old couplet —

" The nappy strong ale of Southwirke
Keeps many a gossip from the kiike."

Chaucer's host at the Old Tabard drank it, doubt-
less ; and so did the Knight and the Franklin, and
perhaps the mincing " Nonne " herself That
there were breweries here as far back as the
fourteenth century we have reason to know, for
Chaucer speaks of " the ale of Southwark " in his
time ; and readers of that poet will not have
forgotten, among the inhabitants of this part —
" The miller that for dronken was all pale,
So that unethes upon his hors he sat."

" Foreigners are not a little amazed," writes
Boswell, in his " Life of Johnson," " when they
hear of brewers, distillers, and men in similar
departments of trade, held forth as persons of con-
siderable consequence. In this great commercial
country it is natural that a situation which produces
much wealth should be considered as very respect-
able ; a^id no doubt honesty is entitled to esteem."
Brewing is one of the oldest objects of industry
among us ; and in early ages the quantity of ale
consumed was somewhat larger than is the case
now in proportion to the population and wealth
of the nation. Little is known of the trading
practices of the eady brewers ; but the process, so
far as the malting and brewing is concerned, is,
doubriess, essentially the same now as it was three
centuries ago, when hops were imported into this
country from Flanders. By a liberal attention to
the improvements of the age, Messrs. Barclay and
Perkins have placed their large establishment in
its present eminence among the breweries of the
wodd. "Formedy," writes Mr. Brayley, in his
" History of Surrey," " our great porter brewers
left ale to minor establishments : this is now par-
tially but not entirely changed; two coppers at
Barclay and Perkins's are therefore applied, as the
occasion requires, to ale-brewing. On the other

34

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[■Southwartc

hand, some of the less extensive estabUshments, in
former times only occupied with ale, now produce
porter also. The difference of the two consists
of modifications in the process, and of certain
additions for the purpose of flavouring or colouring.
The malt and hops are the same, but a very small
portion of malt, when burnt black, suffices to
colour porter and stout. These liquors are more
luscious than ale, and less vinous from undergoing
a less perfect fermentation, that process being con-
siderably shortened, usually to one-third of the time
allowed for ale."

Before proceeding to describe the brewery in its
various details, it will be as well, perhaps, to speak
of the firm to which it belongs. As early as the
middle of the last century, or a hundred years or
so after the " Globe " Theatre had passed away,
there stood upon this site a small brewery, owned
by a certain Mr. Edmund Halsey, whose daughter
had married the Lord Cobham of that time.
Having made a fortune out of the establishment,
Mr. Halsey sold the brewery to the elder Mr.
Thrale, who eventually became member of Parlia-
ment for Southwark, and being a landowner at
Streatham, served as high sheriff of Surrey. Dr.
Johnson used to give the following account of
the rise of this gentleman : — " He worked at six
shillings a week for twenty years in the great
brewery, which afterwards was his own. The
proprietor of it had an only daughter, who was
married to a nobleman. It was not tit that a
peer should continue the business. On the old
man's death, therefore, the brewery was to be sold.
To find a purchaser for so large a property was
a difficult matter ; and after some time it was
suggested that it would be advisable to trfeat with
Thrale, a sensible, active, honest man, who had
been employed in the house, and to transfer the
whole to him for thirty thousand pounds, security
being taken upon the property. This was accord-
ingly settled. In eleven years Thrale paid the
purchase-money." On his death, in 1758, his
son, Mr. Henry Thrale, succeeded him, and found
the brewery so profitable a concern, that, although
he had been educated to other tastes and habits,
he determined not to part with it. This Mr.
Thrale was a handsome man of fashion, and was
wedded to a pretty and clever girl, Miss Hester
Lynch Salusbury, of good Welsh extraction, and,
as Boswell informs us, " a lady of lively talents,
improved by education." The lady, we may add,
was short, plump, and brisk. She has herself
given us a lively view of the idea which Dr.
Johnson had of her i)erson, on her appearing
before him in a dark-coloured gown : " Vou little

creatures should never wear those sort of clothes ;
.... they are unsuitable in every way. What !
have not all insects gay colours?" Mrs. Thrale
was destined, nevertheless, as the mistress of
Streatham Villa, the friend of Johnson, and the
wife of Piozzi, to become a shining light in
English hterature. Boswell tells us, in his " Life
of Johnson," that the general supposition that the
great doctor's introduction into Mr. Thrale's family,
which contributed so much to the happiness of his
life, was owing to her desire for his conversa-
tion, was very plausible ; " but," he adds, " it is
not the truth. Mr. Murphy," continues Boswell,
'' who was intimate with Mr. Thrale, having spoken
very highly of Dr. Johnson, he was requested to
make them acquainted. This being mentioned to
Johnson, he accepted of an invitation to dinner
at Thrale's, and was so much pleased with his
reception both by Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, and they
so much pleased with him, that his in\'itations to
their house were more and more frequent, till at
last he became one of the family, and an apartment
was appropriated to him, both in their house at
Southwark, and in their villa at Streatham."

" The first time," says Mrs. Piozzi, " I ever saw
this extraordinary man was in the year 1764, when
Mr. Murphy, who had long been the friend and
confidential intimate of Mr. Thrale, persuaded
him to wish for Johnson's conversation, extolling
it in terms which that of no other person could
have deserved, till we were only in doubt how to
obtain his company, and find an excuse for the
invitation."

Dr. Johnson had a very sincere esteem for Mr.
Thrale, as a man of excellent principles, a good
scholar, well skilled in trade, of a sound under-
standing, and of manners such as presented the
character of a plain independent English squire.
" I know no man," said he, " who is more master
of his wife and family than Thrale. If he but holds
up a finger, he is obeyed. It is a great mistake
to suppose that she is above him in literary attain-
ments. She is more flippant, but he has ten
times her learning : he is a regular scholar, but
her learning is that of a schoolboy in one of the
lower forms."

Thrale, it has been stated, but falsely, married
Miss Salusbury " because she was the only pretty
girl of his acquaintance who would live in South-
wark ; and having married her, proceeded to
enjoy himself with ladies of doubtful reputation at
the theatres, leaving his gay wife to do the honours
at Streatham to old Sam, Fanny Burney, and others
of tlie set, not forgetting charming, learned Sophy
Sir ;atfield, the mysterous S. S., who won not only

Southwarlc.]

MRS. THRALE.

35

Thrale's heart, but those of right reverend bishops
and grave schoolmasters, by her beauty, ready tears,
soft caresses, and fluent Greek and Hebrev/. But
the time came when Thrale's gay career was
suddenly stopped. The bailiffs and the auctioneer
invaded the Southwark brewery ; but his clever
wife begged and borrowed till she bought it in."

Mr. Thrale resided in a house adjoining the
brewery, and here he entertained his friends, as
well as at his country seat at Streatham. For some
reason or other he appears to have been unpopular
with the mob, for Boswell tells us that in the
Gordon Riots his house and stock were in great
danger : " The mob was pacified at their first
invasion with about £50 in drink and meat ; at
the second they were driven away by the soldiers."
It will be remembered that Dr. Johnson helped
Mr. Thrale in his contests for the representation of
Southwark, writing for him advertisements, letters,
and addresses ; one of these, dated September 5,
1780, is preserved by Boswell.

After Mr. Thrale's death, in 1781, the brewery
was put up for sale by auction, and Johnson, of
course, was present as one of the executors. Lord
Lucan (writes Boswell) tells a very good story,
which, if not precisely exact, is at least charac-
teristic— that while the sale was going on, Johnson
appeared bustling about, with an ink-horn and a
pen in his button-hole, like an exciseman ; and on
being asked what he considered to be the value of
the property which was to be disposed of, answered,
" Sir, we are not here to sell a parcel of boilers
and vats, but the potentiality of growing rich
beyond the dreams of avarice."

The brewery was bought by Mr. David Barclay,
junior, then the head 'of the banking firm of
Barclay and Co., for the sura of ^135,000. This
gentleman placed in the brewing firm his nephew,
from America, Mr. Robert Barclay, who afterwards
settled at Bury Hill, and Mr. Perkins, who had
been in Thrale's establishment as manager or
superintendent ; so that while Mr. Barclay brought
the money to carry on the business, Mr. Perkins
may be said to have contributed the "brains" —
hence the firm of " Barclay and Perkins."

So far and so wide are the joint names of Barclay
and Perkins known upon the sign-boards of v.-ay-
side inns, in London and the country, that Mr. G.
A. Sala, in his " Gaslight and Daylight," suggests
that " a future generation may be in danger of
assuming that Messrs. Barclay and Perkins were
names possessed in an astonishing degree by
London citizens, who, proud of belonging to such
respectable families, were in the habit of blazoning
the declaration of their lineage in blue and gold on

oblong boards, and affixing the same to the fronts
of their houses ! "

But we have not yet quite done with the beautiful
Mrs. Thrale. After the death of her first husband,
as we have already intimated, she became — contrary
to the wishes and advice of Dr. Johnson — the wife
of a Mr. Piozzi, and spent much of her time in her
charming abode at Streatham, in the enjoyment of
a select circle of literary acquaintances. Rogers
was very intimate with the Piozzis, and often
visited them at Streatham. He says, " The world"
(in which Dr. Johnson was, of course, included)
"was most unjust in blaming Mrs. Thrale for marry-
ing Piozzi ; he was a very handsome, gentlemanly,
and amiable person, and made her a very good
husband. In the evening he used to play to us
most beautifully on the piano. Mrs. Piozzi's
daughters would never see her after that marriage ;
and, poor woman, when she was of a very great
age, I have heard her say that she would go down
on her knees to them if they only would be
reconciled to her."

Tom Moore, who breakfasted with her after
she was turned eighty, speaks of hei as still a
" wonderful old lady," with all the quickness and
intelligence of a gay young woman : "faces of
other times seemed to crowd over her as she
sat— the Johnsons, Re3'noldses, &c." Madame
D'Arblay speaks of her as " a wonderful character
for talents and eccentricity, for wit, genius,
generosity, spirit, and powers of entertainment."
Miss Seward said that " her conversation was that
bright wine of the intellect which has no lees ; "
and even Dr. Johnson, who did not think very
highly of the female sex, owned that "her colloquial
wit was a fountain of perpetual flow." Indeed, he
used to dwell on her praises with a peculiar delight
and a paternal fondness, which showed that he
was quite proud and vain of being so intimately
acquainted with her. Macaulay commends her as
" one of those clever, kind-hearted, engaging, vain,
pert young women, who are perpetually saying or
doing something that is not exactly right ; but who,
do or say what they may, are always agreeable."
Add to this the words of Sir Nathaniel Wraxall :
" She was the provider and conductor of Dr.
Johnson, who lived almost constantly under her
roof, or more properly under that of Mr. Thrale
both in London and at Streatham. He did not,
however, spare her any more than other women in
his attacks if she courted and provoked his ani-
madversions. She was also a butt of the satirists ;
thus Gifford writes : —

" See Thrale's gciy wiflow with a satchel roam,
And brin^ in pomp laborious nothing home."

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

And Dr. Wolcot (Peter Pindar), even more mali-
ciously : —

"For that Piozzi's wife, Sir John, exhort her
To draw her immortahty from porter;
Give up her anecdotical inditing.
And study housewif'ry instead of writing."

year burnt to the ground, with the exception of a
very small portion ot the walls. As it is one of the
" sights " of the metropolis, and indeed of Europe,
our readers may be interested with a somewhat
detailed account of the establishment, and of the
various processes of malting, brewing, &c., as here

MRS. rilRALE.

Mrs. Thrale left three daugiiters. One of them was
I^dy Keith, another a Mrs. Mostyn ; her collection
of relics of Mr. Thrale and Dr. Johnson was sold
at Silwood Lodge, Brighton, in the autumn of
1857, soon after Mrs. Mostyn's death.

The brewery of Messrs. Barclay and Perkins, one
)f the greatest establishments of the kind in the
world, occupies .some tliirtcen or fourteen acres of
ground ; the present building dates its erection
from 1832, the old brewery having been in that

carried on. To begin at the beginning, then, wc
will commence with a description of the process of
malting, the object of which is — by forced vegeta-
tion of the grain, and then checking that tendency,
by gradually and slowly increasing heat from 130
to 160 degrees — to separate the jiarticles of starch,
and render the saccharine matter formed easily
soluble in hot water. For this purpose, the barley
is steeped for about two day.s, in which time it
imbibes nearly half its weight of water. It ne.\t

Southwarlt.l

THE PROCESS OF BREWING.

37

lies, a few inches deep, on a floor for a fortnight,
during which time it is repeatedly stirred to prevent
its heating. When the grain is sprouted, its roots
extending about half an inch in length, it is kiln-
dried on an iron floor heated by coke, gradually
and slowly, commencing at 90 degrees, and not
exceeding at last 160 degrees, an operation of two
or three days ; after this the sprouts are separated
by sifting from the malt, which is then fit for the

from the copper duly boiled, the hop dregs are
strained off, and the wort must be cooled as fast as
possible, otherwise the disposition of the beer to
turn sour will be much greater ; even a larger pro-
portion of hop will hardly save it. When the wort
is quite cool it is to be fermented. Wine from
grapes will ferment of itself, but beer requires yeast,
or barm, from a previous brewing. This is usually
added gradually as the wort appears to require it,

brewer or distiller. In describing the process of
brewing, the author above quoted says : " The
brewer, having first ground the malt, mixes it with
as much hot water as it will imbibe, stirring the
mixture until it is perfectly and equally soaked;
the heat of the water must be some degrees below
the boiling-point, or it will cake the meal. When
well stirred, or mashed, it is covered up from ex-
ternal air for about three hours ; then the liquor is
drawn off, and boiled for an hour or more with a
due proportion of hops (hop blossom), say a pound
to the bushel. As all the saccharine matter is not
by this first mashing extracted, a second, and even
a third, is had recourse to, requiring, however,
less time, and allowing hotter water than the first.
When the liquor, or wort, as it is called, is drawn
844

and in various proportions, according to the mten-
tion of the brewer, whether he wishes to save time
in the operations, and to produce a full luscious
beverage for early use, or a more vinous and clear
liquor of great strength for long preservation.
Such are the simple objects of brewing ; but a
variety of circumstances in the practice requires
great care and experience, and not a little acute-
ness of perception. Even with all these qualifica-
tions, the effects of weather used often to be highly
injurious, and are so still to persons who brew m a
small way without the improvements lately ac-
quired from science. These are so great that with
them brewing is carried on indifferently in hot or
cold weather, throughout the year, and not as
formerly, in March and October chiefly. The

38

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[South wark.

principal improvements are in the formation of
mashing-tuns or rakes, whereby the malt is mashed
in an exceedingly small space of time, and without
exposure to the atmosphere, so that all is equally
soaked ; boilers that afford the most speedy and
controllable supply of hot water at the least expense
of fuel, an arrangement for drawing off the wort
and passing it through iron pipes laid in cold water
many hundreds or thousands of yards in continuity,
so that the wort is cooled in an incredible short
time, and other modes of effecting the same pur-
pose by quick evaporation in metallic shallow
vessels. The fermentation is, on the contrary,
carried on in wooden vessels of very great depth,
perhaps of thirty feet ; whilst a perfect control is
maintained that enables the superintendent to pro-
mote the generation of carbonic acid gas, or to
draw it off, as the case may require."

At the brewery of Messrs. Barclay and Perkins
all these operations are to be seen in the utmost
perfection, and on the most magnificent scale.
The brewhouse, or mashing stage, is 225 feet long,
by 60 feet in width, and very lofty, with an inge-
nious and elaborate iron roof. Within this large
space are five complete sets of brewing apparatus,
perfectly distinct in themselves, but directly con-
nected with the great supply of malt from the floor
above, of water-cisterns from below, and of motive
force from the steam-engine behind, as well as the
vast coolers, fermenting vats, &c. Each of the
copper boilers cost nearly .;^5,ooo (about ^^24,000
altogether) ; each consists of a furnace, a globular
copper that holds 350 barrels, a pan or covering
boiler that contains 2 So barrels, and a cylindrical
cistern that will contain 120 barrels, on arrange-
ments equally beautiful and useful, from its com-
pactness and the economy of heat. The hot
water is drawn from one of these copper boilers
to the corresponding mash-tun underneath, which
measures about twenty feet in diameter, and holds
150 quarters of malt. It is supplied with machinery
that works from a centre on a cog-rail which
extends over the circumference of the tun, and stirs
the malt. The mash-tun has a false bottom, which
in due time lets oft" the " wort " tlirough small holes
to an under-back, whence it is pumped back to
the emptied copper, from which it received the hot
water, and there mixed with hops, to be boiled,
and again run off into a cistern thirty feet each
way, where, passing through a perforated bottom,
it leaves the hops, and is pumped through the
cooling tubes, or refrigerator, into an open cooler,
and thence to tiie fermenting .squares, which arc
coffers about twenty-fiv(! or thirty feet deep, and
fifteen feet square, in which the fermentation by j

yeast is carried on for some days ; from these it is
drawn off into pontoons, where the fermentation
acquires a fresh activity for a few days longer, when
it gradually ceases, and the liquor becomes clearer :
it is then put into the large vat, where it remains
till required for use. The vats at Barclay and
Perkins' establishment are nearly 200 in number,
the smallest containing 600 barrels of beer, and the
largest 3,300 barrels, measuring 36 feet in diameter
at top, 40 feet at the bottom (or 125 feet in circum-
ference), and 40 feet in height. Altogether, they
must hold more than 150,000 barrels; and the
number of casks (butts or barrels), many of them
filled, amounts to something over 64,000.

We have stated that the brewery contains five
magnificent boilers with corresponding mash-tuns,
and every adjunct. So far the arrangement and
explanation are simple enougli, and so is, to the
eye of an experienced engineer, the machinery
that connects and keeps in motion every part of
these stupendous operations. It is otherwise to
persons unaccustomed to the variety and mul-
tiplicity of cog-wheels working at different angles,
which communicate action in different and opposite
directions from one end of the premises to the
other, in what may be denominated a maze of
systematic order. The malt is conveyed from one
building to another, even across a street, entirely
by machinery, and again to the crushing rollers
and mash-tun ; the cold and the hot water, and the
wort and the beer, are pumped in various directions,
almost to the exclusion of human exertions, nearly
every portion of the heavy toil being accomplished
by the steam-engine. Of all the combinations,
none is more complete than what is called the
" Jacob's ladder : " this consists of an endless chain
working on two rollers at a considerable distance
from each other. Along this chain buckets are
fastened close to each other ; these buckets dipping
into a heap of malt near one extremity of the
chain, carry it on to the other end, where, revolving
on the other roller, they are capsized, and thus
emptied ; they, of course, return to the first roller,
where a second inversion places them again in
the position required for filling by their own
progress through the heap of malt to be removed.
There are no less than twenty-four lofts, each
capable of containing 1,000 quarters of malt. The
"Jacob's ladders" and the refrigerators are among
the greatest improvements achieved : the one saves
immense labour, simplifies and perfects the work,
and, of course, reduces the expenses, and con-
centrates the operations ; the otlier economises
time, and improves the beverage. More space and
more hands can be applied to those portions of the

South wark.]

MARSHAL HAYNAU AND THE DRAYMEN.

39

business that require them ; and hence a remarkable
degree of method, neatness, cleanHness, and quiet
are observable throughout the establishment.

The portions of the brewery which we have
described above lie on either side of Park Street,
being connected by a bridge, which is reached
from the upper storeys. On leaving these parts of
the establishment, we pass through the engine-
room, on the ground-floor, and emerging into the
yard, notice the well from which the great supply
of water is drawn for consumption in the brewery.
In connection with this well, we may state a
curious geological fact. This brewery, as we have
shown above, is situated near the south bank of
the Thames ; that of the City of London Brewery
Company is in Thames Street, on the opposite
side of the river. It is not a little singular that
when the pump of the well at Messrs. Barclay's
is worked, the level of the water in the well of the
City brewery is visibly affected, thus proving that
the watery stratum passes clean under the Thames,
just as it would under dry land, without being in
any way connected with the water of the river.

The long ranges of building on the north side
of the brewery are used as the carpenters' shops,
the cooperage, &c. In the former a very large
amount of work is done in connection with fittings
for the various public-houses belonging to the firm,
besides other work which may be required in the
brewery. On the south side of the yard is another
range of buildings, separated from the other by an
avenue, over which a large pipe crosses to convey
the beer from the "rounds" — as the huge tanks
which contained it are called — to the store-vats.
These vats are contained in a series of store-rooms,
apparently almost interminable. Long galleries,
branching off north, south, east, and west, are
crammed as full of vats as the circular form of the
vessels will permit, some larger than others, but
all, nevertheless, of gigantic proportions. Some
idea may be formed of the extent of the vat-
galleries when we state that there are nearly
200 vats, the average capacity of which, large and
small together, is upwards of 30,000 gallons. Two
of the vats are each capable of containing 3,500
barrels of thirty-six gallons each, and the weight,
when full of porter, is stated to be about 500 tons.
By the aid of a guide we ascend one of the steep
ladders, and mounting to the top, obtain a kind of
bird's-eye view of these mighty monsters, and then
emerging through a small doorway in the roof,
obtain a good view not only of the whole range of
buildings forming the brewery, but also of St.
Saviour's Church and other places round about.
The store-rooms in front of us, as we look

down on the north side, we were informed, had
gradually and completely enclosed a small grave-
yard, which has at last been partially built upon,
and all traces of its previous uses swept away.
As this grave-yard does not appear to have been
parochial, or attached to any church, it was, in
all probability, the same as that which we have
mentioned above as having been formerly used
as the burial-place of the unfortunate victims of
the plague in Bankside. On the south side of
the brewery is an extensive range of stabling,
spacious enough to afford proper accommodation
for 200 dray-horses.

Messrs. Barclay and Perkins, down to a com-
paratively recent period, stood quite at the head of
the principal porter and ale brewers of London ;
but latterly Messrs. Hanbury and Co. seem to have
taken the lead. Nevertheless, a very large business
is done annually by Messrs. Barclay and Perkins,
not only in the way of home consumption, but also
for shipment abroad, and the average quantity
of malt consumed by them amounts to about
130,000 quarters annually, or about 650 quarters
every working day throughout the year, besides
a proportionably large quantity of hops. The
brewery is a great attraction for visitors to London,
and more especially foreigners, and the " visitors'
book " will be found to contain the names of
many eminent personages. One of the best-
remembered visitors, perhaps, is Marshal Haynau,
who was speedily and unceremoniously ejected
by the draymen some years ago, in consequence
of his alleged ill-treatment of Polish or Hungarian
women, which had come to the knowledge of
Messrs. Barclay and Perkins' draymen.

Marshal Haynau, during the sanguinary war in
1849 against the Hungarians, had gained consider-
able notoriety from his excessive cruelty towards
the Magyars, particularly the women. The follow-
ing year, having fallen into disgrace with the
Imperial Court of Vienna, and losing his military
command, he occupied himself in a tour through
Europe, visiting London in due course. On the
4th of September, 1850, he paid a visit to Barclay's
brewhouse, and complied with the customary
practice of signing the visitors' book on entering
the brewery. In less than two minutes the word
was passed throughout the establishment that the
notorious Hungarian woman-flogger was then in
the building. A nutnber of the men quickly
gathered round him as he was viewing the large
vat, and commenced showing signs of hostility.
Finding that his presence was so decidedly ob-
jectionable, the marshal was about to retire, but
this he was not permitted to do without receiving

40

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Soutnwark-

sorae marks of violence from the draymen and
workmen employed in the brewery. A truss of
straw was dropped on his head as he was passing
through the stables, his hat was then beaten over
his eyes, his clothes torn ofif his back, and he was
almost dragged along by his beard and moustaches,
which were of enormous length. Some of the
carters employed in the brewery and labourers
from the Borough Market commenced lashing him
with their whips, accompanied with the cry, " Down
with the Austrian butcher ! " " Give it him ! "
Both himself and his two companions endeavoured
to defend themselves against the mob of workmen,
now swelled to upwards of 500. In his attempts
to escape from his pursuers he rushed along Bank-
side, and entered the " George " public-house, close
by, followed by the throng. Several rooms were
entered by the mob, but in vain. At last the
marshal was discovered crouching in a dust-bin
attached to the house. In the meantime the police,
having been sent for, appeared on the scene, and
with some difficulty the crowd was dispersed and
the marshal conveyed through a back-door to a
police galley which happened to be near at hand.
He was then rowed to Waterloo Bridge, and con-
veyed to Morley's Hotel.

" We have often," writes Charles Knight, " had
occasion to sigh over the poverty of London in the
article of genuine popular legends ; one brewhouse
is among the exception. The names of Henry
Thrale and Dr. Samuel Johnson must go down
to posterity together. The workmen at Barclay
and Perkins's will show you a little apartment in
which, according to the tradition of the place,
Johnson wrote his dictionary. Now this story,"
he adds, "has one feature of a genuine legend — it
sets chronology at defiance." He might have added
that it sets at defiance topography also ; for it is
well known that the dictionary was compiled, as
shown by us in our first volume,* in the neighbour-
hood of Fleet Street.

The site of the Globe Theatre, of which we shall
speak in the following chapter, is believed to be
covered by part of the premises of Messrs. Barclay
and Perkins's Brewery, at a short distance from the
spot on which once stood the town-house of Mr.
Thrale.

Deadman's Place, according to tradition, took
its name from the nuniber of dead interred there
in tlie great plague, soon after the Restoration.
Elmes, in iiis " Topographical Dictionary," says it
is the second turning on tlie left in Park Street
going from the Borough Market ; as shown above,

• Sea VoL I., p. iii.

it has now become partly absorbed in Messrs.
Barclay and Perkins's brewery. Pike tells us that
little more than fifty years ago there existed in
Southwark Park a burial-ground in which many of
the Nonconformist worthies were interred. This
cemetery was called Deadman's Place, and was
situated not far from New Park Street Chapel.

Not far from the brewery, in Park Street, there
stood formerly a timber edifice, where Mr. Wads-
worth's congregation was accustomed to assemble,
and where Richard Baxter was wont occasionally
to preach. " Just when I was kept out of Swallow
Street," says Baxter, " his [Mr. Wadswortli's] flock
invited me to Southwark, where, though I refused
to be their pastor, I preached many months in
peace, there being no justice willing to disturb us."
Baxter died in the Charterhouse in 1691.

At a short distance westward, in Zoar Street,
an obscure part of the Borough, close by Gravel
Lane, which forms the western boundary of South-
wark, there is, or, at all events, there was till very
lately, an old Dissenting meeting-house, but now
converted into a carpenter's shop, which tradition
affirms to have been used by John Bunyan for
religious worship. " It is known," says Mr. R.
Chambers, in his " Book of Days " (vol. ii., p.
290), " to have been erected a short while before
the Revolution, by a few earnest Protestants, as a
means of counteracting a Catholic school which
had been established in the neighbourhood under
the auspices of James II. But Bunyan may
have preached in it once or twice, or even occa-
sionally, during the year preceding his death, in
1688." One of its ministers was John Chester,
the ejected minister of Wetherby, in Leicestershire.
When Bunyan preached in this chapel, thousands
of people were attracted by the charm of his magic
eloquence. It mattered not whether the service
was held on the Sunday, or "a morning lecture
by seven o'clock on a working-day in the dark
winter-time." In 1740 this congregation removed
to Deadman's Place, and about fifty years later
they migrated to Union Street. The old chapel
in Zoar Street was subsequently used by the
Wesleyans, and at last became a brewery and a
factory. A view of the chapel, as it appeared in
181 2, has been engraved for the standard edition
of Bunyan's works ; and another view of the edifice,
as it was in 1864, will be found in the "Book of
Days," at the page quoted above.

It was in ]5ankside at one time that poor Oliver
Goldsmith was practising medicine on his own
account, though without much success. This was
in tlie interval after he had been engaged as an
assistant in a chemist's shop near Fish Street Hill,

Southwark.l

THE FALCON GLASS WORKS.

41

and before he became a schoolmaster at Peckham.
Goldsmith's strong passion for dress, at this period
of his checkered career, we are told, exhibited
itself in a second-hand suit of green and gold,
which made him a rather conspicuous personage in
the thoroughfares of the Borough ; while a want of
neatness, and of money to pay the washerwoman,
was clearly betrayed in his shirt and neckcloth,
often of a fortnight's wear. But contentment or
pride provided a covering for his poverty, and he
told a friend that " he was practising physic, and
doing very well." The green suit was afterwards
changed for a black one, with a patch on the left
breast, which he ingeniously concealed by holding
up his cocked hat when he was conversing with
his patients. A polite person once endeavoured
to relieve him from this apparent incumbrance,
" which only made him press it more devoutly to
his heart."

Bankside is described in the "New View of
London," published in 1 708, as lying " between
Upper Ground Street and St. Saviour's Dock."
The thoroughfare now bearing the name extends
from St. Saviour's Church westward nearly to Black-
friars Bridge. Not far from Bankside there was
a Crucifix Lane, near Barnaby (now Bermondsey)
Street and Parish Street, which, with Cardinal's Hat
Court, seem to have been so named as belonging
at some distant period to the old religious house
of St. Mary Overy.

A little to the west of St. Saviour's Church is
Stoney Street, which ran down to the water-side,
nearly opposite to Dowgate, and probably was the
continuation of the Watling Street road. " This,"
says Pennant, " is supposed to have been a Roman
irajectus, and the ferry from Londinum into the
province of Cantium." Marks of the ancient cause-
way have been discovered on the London side.
Of this the name evinces the origin. The Saxons
always gave the name of Street to the Roman
roads, and here they gave it the addition of Stoney,
from the pavemefct they found beneath it.

Between Southwark Bridge Road and the
southern end of Blackfriars Bridge is Holland
Street, which marks the site of the ancient moated
manor-house, called Holland's Leaguer, of which
we have spoken above. All vestiges of the house
have long been swept away. In Holland Street,
on the spot where once stood the tide-mill of the
old manor of Paris Garden, arc the Falcon Glass
Works, one of the most important manufactories
in Southwark. It may be mentioned here, in
passing, that old Southwark was noted for its
artists in glass, who are known to have glazed the
windows of King's College Chapel, Cambridge, in

the reign of Henry VIII. The Falcon Works
have existed here for more than a century. " Their
present importance and excellence," as we learn
from Brayley's "History of Surrey" (1843), "are
mainly due to the taste and exertions of the present
proprietor [Mr. Apsley Pellatt], and the employ-
ment of skilful hands on materials that science and
experience approve. By these means the most
elegant productions of the Continent are advan-
tageously rivalled, and in some respects surpassed.
The number of persons employed is from one
hundred to one hundred and twenty in the glass-
house, and about thirty elsewhere. The weight
of glass manufactured in the course of a year,
into chandeliers, illuminators for ships or cellars,
toilet or smelling-bottles, ornamental glasses of
every description for the table, and various objects
for medical and philosophical purposes, has been
30,000 lbs." Since the repeal of the excise duty
on glass the quantity worked has been very largely
increased, and the quality improved. Mr. Apsley
Pellatt, who was for some years M.P. for Lambeth,
died in 1864.

Close by the glass works, on the site of the
Falcon drawing-dock, was situated the " Falcon
Tavern," famous for its connection with the name
of William Shakespeare. Here the great " poet
of all time " and his companions would refresh
themselves after the fatigue of the afternoon per-
formances at the Globe hard by. " It long con-
tinued," says Mr. Larwood, " to be celebrated as a
coaching inn for all parts of Kent, Surrey, and
Sussex, till it was taken down in 1808." The
name, as shown above, is still preserved in the
Falcon Glass Works, and also in the Falcon Stairs.
A house is still standing, or was till lately, which
is considered to have been part of the original
tavern, and, at all events, occupies its site and
immortalises his name.

In the rear of the Falcon Glass Works, opening
upon Holland Street — or that part of it which was
till lately called the "Green Walk" — is a small
cluster of almshouses, founded in 1730, by a Mr.
Hopton, for the purpose of affording shelter for
" poor decayed householders of the parish of
Christchurch," together with a yearly pension of
_;^i2 to each inmate.

Previous to the erection of Southwark Bridge,
in 1S14, Bankside, from London to Blackfriars
Bridges, presented a comparatively uninteresting
succession of wharves and warehouses, together
with irregular-built dwelling-houses ; but upon the
formation of the viaduct to the new bridge, ex-
tensive improvements were planned on each side,
the most important of which was the erection of

42

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

a huge pile of building westward, by the Messrs.
Pott, upon a tract of ground which, for upwards
of two centuries, has been used for manufacturing
purposes.

These premises were occupied as vinegar works
by a Mr. Rush, so long ago as 1641, and continued
in his family till 1790, when they came into the
possession of the Messrs. Pott, whose family had
carried on a manufactory of the same kind for
seventy years in Mansel Street, Whitechapel. The
ground here, as we have already shown, originally
formed a portion of the park of the ancient palace
of the Bishops of Winchester. In 1838-9, the

wish of a certain Miss Hyndman, to the erection
of churches in populous districts. A further sum
of about ;^i,7oo was raised by subscription among
the parishioners, for the enclosure, decoration, and
furniture of the edifice.

Since the annexation of Southwark to London,
as stated in a previous chapter, its ecclesiastical
districts have gradually been increased by sub-
divisions. The two parishes of St. Mary's and
St. Margaret's, indeed, as we have already shown,
have been united, the old church of St. Saviour's
being made to do duty for both ; but the parish of
Christ Church, as nearly as possible co-extensive

PLAN OF BANKSIDE, EARLY IN THE SEVENPEENTH CENTURY.

Messrs. Pott, in conjunction with the Bishop of
the day, generously gave a portion of the grounds
for the site of the new parish church of St.
Peter's, and of the new grammar-school of St
Saviour's.

The church and school stand on the north side
of Sumner Street — so named after Dr. Sumner,
late Bishop of Winchester — which connects South-
wark Bridge Road with Park Street. The church
is a poor building, in imitation of the Pointed style,
and is construclcd of fine light brick, witli stone
dressings. At the western end rises an embattled
tower, with square turrets at the angles ; the
eastern gable is surmounted with an enriched cross,
turrets, &c. ; the principal entrances are at the
west end, and at the south side, under an enriched
stone headway, beneath the central window. The
cost of building was contributed by the trustees of
" Hyndman's Bounty ; " being a portion of the
donation of ^100,000 devoted, in fulfilment of the

with the Manor of Paris Garden, has been formed
out of St. Saviour's, as also has the still more
modern parish of St. Peter's, of which we have
spoken above. The parish of St. John's, Horsely-
down, has in Uke manner been taken out of St.
Olave's ; and the hospital church of St. Thomas
has been made parochial. Of the churches
belonging to the two last-named parishes, and also
of Christ Church, Blackfriars Road, we shall speak
in due course.

St. .Saviour's Grammar School, as we have already
had occasion to state, stood originally on the south
side of St. Saviour's Church ; it was founded by
Queen Elizabeth in 1562, for the use of the
parishioners, " poor as well as rich." It was burnt
down a few years after its establishment, but was
rebuilt. In 1839 the school was removed to a
more convenient site in Sumner Street, where the
present school and schoolhouse were built about
the year 1838. At the same time the statutes

Southwark.3

ST. SAVIOUR'S GRAMMAR SCHOOL.

43

were revised by the Court of Chancery, and the
education now given is that of a public school,
while the endowment is sufficient to allow of the
charges being reduced to a most moderate scale.
The school was reformed in 1850 under a scheme
approved by the Court of Chancery, the usual
classical and commercial course being prescribed.
The visitor is the Bishop of Rochester, though for-
merly that office was held by the successive Bishops
of Winchester. By the statutes it is provided that the

the Bishop of Winchester, " or any other good and
learned man." Immediately after the charter, the
governors ordered that the schoolmaster's wages
should be ^20 yearly ; that children of the parish
should be taught free, paying 2S. 6d. entrance, and
8d. per annum towards brooms and rods. The
whole number of scholars was not to exceed
100 ; the head-master taking forty for his own
advantage; in 16 14 he was allowed a dwelling-
house in the parish, rent-free; and the governors

THE GLOBE THEATRE, TEMP. ELIZABETH. (See page ^'3.)

master shall be " a man of a wise, sociable, loving
disposition, not hasty or furious, or of any ill
example, but wise and of good experience to
discern the nature of every several child ; to work
upon the disposition for the greatest advantage,
benefit, and comfort of the child, and to learn with
the love of his book, if such an one can be got."

The school and master's house, &c., which
nearly adjoin the western end of St. Peter's
Church, are built of brick, with stone dressings, in
the Elizabethan Domestic style, from the designs
of Mr. Christopher Edmonds, architect. By the
charter of incorporation, the original endowment
amounted to jQ^^o per annum ; six governors were
appointed, who were to be advised in the appoint-
ment and government of the master and usher by

had the discretion of increasing his stipend, and
taking children of other parishes and places. In
the above year also, John Bingham, one of the
governors of the school, founded an endowment
for two poor scholars at Cambridge or Oxford —
" none but poor and such as were forward in
learning, and might be fit for the University."
According to the Parliamentary Report, in 1818,
the annual income of this school amounted to
£z^l 155. id. At that time there were sixty-
eight boys upon the foundation ; each paid £1
entrance, and 5s. a quarter to the writing-school,
and the like to the classical school. The above
report states, " With the exception of writing
and arithmetic, the education given at the school
is, ac'.ording to the provisions of the charter,

44

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[SoiithwarV.

entirely classical. It appears that this has operated
to deter poor persons who might be entitled to
send their children there from so doing ; but we
are assured that no poor child, whose parents
have applied for his admission, has been refused."
The average number of children is now about 120,
and the school is thrown entirely open. There
are several valuable scholarships ; and the pupils
are prepared for the Universities, Civil Service,
and other public examinations, combined with a
thorough commercial education.

To the south of Sumner Street, and connect-
ing the two great thoroughfares of the Borough
and Blackfriars Road, is a broad roadway, called
Southwark Street. It was formed about the year
i860, and its sides are lined with some lofty and
handsome warehouses, offices, and other places
of business, which present a marked improve-
ment on the ordinary street architecture of old
Southwark. In the formation of this street a large
number of courts and alleys were swept away,
and a great alteration was made in the west side
of the High Street, by the removal of the Town
Hall, of which we shall presently speak. The
preparations for the erection of Southwark Bridge
had cleared away several narrow streets on tlie
Surrey side of the river, and materially altered
the appearance of the neighbourhood. Bandyleg
Walk, a dirty lane between Maid Lane (now New
Park Street) and Queen Street (now Union Street),
are on the spot where formerly was a waste piece
of ground. The Dyers' Field, with a filthy pond
in the centre, became Great Guildford Street ; and
the name of Union Street was conferred upon
the thoroughfare between the end of Charlotte
Street and the Borough. The district between
the Blackfriars Road and Bandyleg Walk had an
unsavoury reputation in the last century. Gravel
Lane, Ewer Street, and the adjacent courts and
alleys, were the St. Giles's of Southwark, inhabited
by a dense colony of Irish, whose frequent drunken
bouts and faction fights were, in those days of
the old " Charlies," sufficiently desperate to warn
off steady-going people from the locality. On the
north side of the street, westward of Southwark
Bridge Road, are some extensive blocks of model
lodging-houses, erected by the Peabody trustees.
The range of buildings covers a large extent of
ground ; and the houses themselves, which are
constructed of brick, and upon the most improved
principles, are several storeys in height.

At the eastern end of Southwark Street, near
its junction with the High Street, and close by
the Borough Market, stands the Hop Exchange,
which was built about iSC)5, from the designs of

Mr. Moore. This is a large and magnificent
range of buildings, several storeys in height, in
which are offices, &c., used by hop merchants and
others, and enclosing a lofty hall, in which the
business of the exchange is carried on. The
hall, which is approached from the street by a
short flight of steps, and a vestibule, in which are
some handsome iron gates, is surrounded by three
galleries, which serve as means of communication
to the various offices. In the rear are some ex-
tensive warehouses and stowage for hops, &c.
The railings of the galleries are appropriately
decorated, and the hall itself is covered in with
a glass roof.

It has been said of St. Petersburg that more
labour is expended in the foundations of the houses
than on the houses themselves ; and so it is with
Southwark Street. The subway which runs along
its centre, as stated in a previous part of this
work,* is a piece of building which will last for
many generations. Underneath that subway, which
is seven feet high in the centre, is the sewer ;
the gas and water pipes are laid in the subway.
There is a communication from it for gas and
water to every house, the repair of the pipes will
not necessitate the opening of the streets, and pas-
sengers are saved the disagreeable intelligence of
" No thoroughfare," when driving in a cab to catch
a train. This subway, indeed, is a most excellent
piece of building, and has been finished in a
masterly manner ; and the same degree of ex-
cellent workmanship may be said to have been
bestowed upon the fronts of the houses on either
side of the street. Altogether, Southwark Street
is more like an old Roman street, especially in
its subway, than anything of modern times. In
architecture it may be called Parisian, for the
style of the houses is borrowed from that which
dominates in Paris, and is identified with the
period of Louis XIV. Near the eastern end of the
street the roadway is crossed by a railway arch,
over which passes the line connecting London
Bridge and Cannon Street Stations with Waterloo
and Charing Cross ; whilst the other end of the
street passes under the London, Chatham, and
Dover Railway, close by Blackfriars Bridge Station.
In the middle of the roadway, at either end 01
the street, are ornamental shafts, surrounded by
lamps, for the ventilation of the subway.

Altogether, the Bankside of today is a notably
different place from the Bankside of theatres and
jileasure-gardens as it ajiiieared two centuries ago,
and which we shall now proceed to describe.

■ Sec Vol. v., p. 239.

Soutbwaik. J

THE GLOBE THEATRE.

45

CHAPTER V.
SOUTHWARK (ro«//««c</).— BANKSIDE IN THE OLDEN TIME.

*' Totus orbls agit histrionenL"

Appearance of Bankside in the Seventeenth Century— The Globe Theatre-Its Destruction by Fire— Shakespeare's Early Connection with the
Playhouse— James Burbage— Rebuilding of the Globe Theatre— Public and Private Theatres— The Rose Theatre— lien Jonson— The Hope
and bwan Theatres-Paris Garden— Bear-baiting— PrLzc-fighting -Samuel Pepys" Description of the Spoit— John Evelyn's Visit to Bank-
side— The •■ Master of the King's Bears"— Bad Repute of Paris Garden— Visit of Queen Klizab.th to Paris Garden-Bear Alley— Public
Gardens in Southwark— Bankside at the Time of the Great Fire of London — Dick Tarleton— The "Tumble-down Dick "—Waterside
Public-houses.

In the present chapter we must ask our readers
to transport themselves along with us, mentally,
some 250 or 300 years, to the Bankside with
which Shakespeare and Burbage, and Ben Jonson,
and Beaumont and Fletcher were familiar. They
will see no rows of densely-crowded courts and
alleys, with their idle and dissolute, gin-drinking
inhabitants ; but before their eyes there will rise at
least three large round structures of singular ap-
pearance, not unlike small martello towers, open
to the sky above, together with one or two plots
of enclosed ground scaffolded about for the use
of spectators. These are the Paris Gardens, and
the Globe, the Hope, and the Swan Theatres.
And besides these, there are the stately palaces
of the Bishops of Winchester and Rochester, as
we have already shown ; and all to the south are
green fields and hedgerows.

" On the southern bank of the Thames," writes
Mr. J. H. Jesse, in his " London," between Black-
friars Bridge and Southwark Bridge, is Bankside.
Here was the Globe Theatre, immortalised as the
spot where Shakespeare trod the stage ; here was
the celebrated ' Paris Garden ; ' here stood the
circuses for ' bowll-baytyng ' and ' beare-baytyng,'
where Queen Elizabeth entertained the French
ambassadors with the baiting of wild beasts. Here
stood the Falcon Tavern — the ' Folken Inne ' as
it is styled in the ancient plans of Bankside —
the daily resort of Shakespeare and his dramatic
companions ; here, between Southwark Bridge and
London Bridge, the site still pointed out by ' Pike
Gardens,' were the pike-ponds, which once sup-
plied our monarchs with fresh-water fish ; and,
lastly, here were the park and the palace of the
Bishop of Winchester."

It will be seen at once, from the above quota-
tion, that the ancient topography of the southern
bank of the Thames (or Bankside) between Lon-
don and Blackfriars Bridges, is peculiarly interest-
ing to the lover of dramatic lore, as well as to
the student of the sports and pastimes of our
ancestors. Down to the middle of the seventeenth
century, and probably much later, with the ex-
ception of a few houses extending westward along

the bank of the river, and sundry places of amuse-
ment, the greater part of the land hereabouts would
seem to have been waste and unenclosed.

The Globe Theatre, as already mentioned by
us, occupied part of the site now covered by
Messrs. Barclay and Perkins's Brewery.

In the " History of St. Saviour's, Southwark,"
published in 1795, we read that "the passage
which led to the Globe Tavern, of which the play-
house formed a part, was, till within these few
years, known by the name of Globe Alley, and
upon its site now stands a large storehouse for
porter." It was called the Globe from its sign,
which was a figure of Hercules, or Atlas, sup-
porting a globe, under which was written, " Totus
orbis agit histnmetn" ; and not, as many have
conjectured, from its circular shape ; for the Globe,
though a rotunda within, was to the outward view
a hexagon or octagon.

We have no description of the interior of the
Globe, but it may have been somewhat similar to
modern theatres, with an open space in the roof;
or perhaps it more resembled an inn-yard, where,
in the beginning of Queen Elizabeth's reign, many
of our ancient dramatic pieces were performed.
The galleries in both were arranged on three sides
of the building ; the small rooms under the lowest,
answered to our present boxes, and were called
rooms ; the yard bears a sufficient resemblance
to the pit, as at present in use, and where the
common people stood to see the exhibition ; from
which circumstance they are called by Shakespeare
" tht groundlings " and by Ben Jonson " the under-
standing gendemen of the ground." The stage was
erected in the area, with its back to the gateway,
where the admission money was generally taken.
The price of admission into the best rooms, or
boxes, was in Shakespeare's time a shilling, though
afterwards it appears to have risen to two shillings
and half-a-crown. The galleries, or scaffolds, as
they were sometimes called, and that part of the
house which in private theatres was named the
pit, seem to have been the same in price, which
was sixpence, while in some meaner playhouses it
was only a penny, and in others twopence.

46

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

LSouchwBilc.

The Globe Theatre, according to Mr. Dyce, in
his " Life of Shakespeare," was first opened late
in 1594, or early in the following year; at all
events, within twenty years of the opening of the
first theatre in London. During the summer,
the Lord Chamberlain's " servants," — of whom
Shakespeare was one — acted at the Globe, return-
ing in the winter to the theatre at Blackfriars,
which was more effectually sheltered from the
weather. They also occasionally changed their
venue by playing at the " Curtain," in Shoreditch,
and at the theatre in Newington Butts.

No sooner did James I. ascend the throne, than
he issued from Greenwich a royal proclamation,
authorising, by name, " Our servants, Lawrence
Fletcher, William Shakspeare, Richard Burbage,"
&c. &c., " freely to use and exercise the art and
faculty of plays, comedies, tragedies, histories, in-
terludes, morals, pastorals, stage-plays, &c. &c.,
as well within their now usual house, called the
Globe, within our County of Surrey, as also within
any town halls ... or other convenient places
within the liberties ... of any other city, univer-
sity, town, or borough whatever within our realms."

Shakespeare and his associates at this time
were at the head of the Lord Chamberlain's com-
pany, performing at the Globe in summer ; but by
this proclamation they ceased to be the Lord
Chamberlain's servants, and became " the king's
players." It may be added that " Mr. Shakespeare,
of the Globe," is mentioned in a letter from Mrs.
Alleyn to her husband, the founder of Dulwich
College.

If any doubt exist as to the extent of Shake-
speare's connection with the theatres in Bankside,
it will be removed by the lines of Ben Jonson,
in allusion to the fondness for dramatic per-
formances which marked our last Tudor and our
first Stuart sovereign : —

" .Sweet .Swan of Avon, what a sight it were
To see thee in our waters yet appear.
And make those flights upon the banks of Thames
That so did take Eliza and our James."

" It was here," writes Chades Mackay, in his
" Thames and its Tributaries," " near tiie spot still
called the Bankside, that the Globe Theatre stood
at the commencement of the seventeenth century ;
the theatre of which Shakespeare himself was in
part proprietor, where some of his plays were
first produced, and where he himself performed
in them. It was of an octagonal form, partly
covered with thatch, as we learn from the account
in Stow, who tells us that in 161 3, ten years after
it was first licensed Id Shakespeare and Burbage,
and the rest, the thatch took fire by the negligent

discharge of a piece of ordnance, and in a very
short time the whole building was consumed. The
house was filled with people to witness the repre-
sentation of Kijig Hetiry the Eighth ; but they all
escaped unhurt. This was the end of Shake-
speare's theatre ; it was rebuilt, however, appa-
rently in a similar style, in the following year."

Theatres in those times were very different
structures from what they are in the present day :
they were unroofed, circular or hexagonal edifices,
shielded from the rain by a canvas covering, and
without scenery. At first they were innocent
of " stalls " or " boxes," for the more aristocratic
part of the audience sat upon the stage, among
the performers, drinking beer and enjoying a
friendly pipe. The central area in the public
theatres was termed " the yard," the word " pit "
being restricted to private theatres ; the pits
were furnished with seats, which was not the case
with the " yards." " Cressets, or large open
lanterns," writes Mr. Dyce, "served to illuminate
the body of the house ; and two ample branches,
of a form similar to those now hung in churches,
gave light to the stage. The band of musicians,
which was far from numerous, sat, it is supposed,
in an upper balcony, over what is now called
the stage-box ; the instruments chiefly used were
trumpets, comets, hautboys, lutes, recorders, viols,
and organs. Nearly all these theatres were of
wood ; and the public theatres were open to the
sky, the luxury of a roof being confined to 'private'
theatres — whatever these may have been. On the
outside of each was a sign indicative of its name ;
and on the roof a flag was hoisted during the time
of performance."

The peculiar construction of the theatre in
Shakespeare's time is referred to by the poet him-
self, for he thus speaks of the Globe Theatre in
his play of Henry V. : —

" Can this vast cockpit hold
The field of vasty France ? or can we cram
Into this wooden O the very casques
That did affright the air at Agincourt ? "

In these early days of the drama, a curtain
occupied the place of scenery, while the scene
supposed to be represented was inscribed on a
board, and hung up at the back of the stage,
such, for instance, as " This is a house," or
" This is a garden."

" Piece out our imperfections vrith your thoughts"

is the bidding of the poet ; and he spoke to an
audience who could do even better than that,
who could forget them altogether, in their appre-
hension of the spiritual grandeur and magnificence

Southwai-U.')

JAMES fiURSAGE.

M

that was then with them in the cockpit. " There
is something, it must be owned," observes Charles
Knight, in his " London," " occasionally amusing,
as well as delightful, in the simplicity of the
old stage : in Greene's Pinner of Wakefield, two
parties are quarrelling, and one of them says,
' Come, sir, will you come to the town's end,
now?' in order to fight. 'Aye, sir, come,' answers
the other ; and both then, we presume, move a
few feet across the stage, to another part; but
evidently that is all, for in the next line the
speaker continues, ' Now we are at the town's
end — what shall we say now ? ' " And yet it was
here, and with such accessories as those mentioned
above, that were first produced nearly all the won-
derful plays of the mighty poet.

An account of the accident mentioned above
is given by Sir Henry Wotton, in a letter dated
July 2, 1613 : " Now to let matters of state sleepe,
I will entertain you at the present with what
happened this week at the Bank's side. The
King's players had a new play, called All is True,
representing some principal pieces of the reign of
Henry VHI., which set forth with many extra-
ordinary circumstances of pomp and majesty even
to the matting of the stage ; the knights of the
order with their Georges and Garters, the guards
with their embroidered coats, and the like ; suflii-
cient in truth within awhile to make greatness
very familiar, if not ridiculous. Now King Henry
making a masque at the Cardinal Wolsey's house,
and certain cannons being shot off at his entr}',
some of the paper or other stuff", wherewith one
of them was stopped, did light on the thatch,
where, being thought at first but idle smoak,
and their eyes more attentive to the show, it
kindled inwardly, and ran round like a train, con-
suming within less than an hour the whole house
to the very ground. This was the fatal period of
that virtuous fabrick, wherein yet nothing did
perish but wood and straw, and a few forsaken
cloaks ; only one man had his breeches set on
fire, that would perhaps have broyled him, if he
had not, by the benefit of a provident wit, put it
out with a bottle of ale."

From a letter of Mr. John Chamberlaine to
Sir Ralph Winwood, dated July 8, 16 13, in which
this accident is likewise mentioned, we learn that
the theatre had only two doors. " The burning
of the Globe or playhouse on the Bankside on
St. Peter's day cannot escape you ; which fell out
by a peal of chambers (that I know not upon
Tivhat occasion were to be used in the play), the
tampin or stopple of one of them lighting in the
thatch that covered the house, bum'd it down to

[ the ground in less than two hours, witli a dwelling-
house adjoyning ; and it was a great marvaile and
a fair grace of God that the people had so little
harm, having but two narrow doors to get out."

In 1613 was entered in the Stationers' books,
" A doleful Ballad of the General Conflagration of
the famous Theatre called the Globe."

Taylor, the water poet, commemorates the event
in the following lines : —

" As gold is better that in fire's tried,

So is the Bankside Globe, that late was burn'd ;

For where before it had a thatched hide,
Now to a stately theatre 'tis turn'd ;

Which is an emblem that great things are won
By those that dare through greatest dangers run."

It is also alluded to in some verses by Ben
Jonson, entitled "An Execration upon Vulcan."
from which it appears that Ben Jonson was in
the theatre when it was burnt.

The exhibitions given at the Globe appear to
have been calculated for the lower class of people,
and to have been more frequent than those at
the Blackfriars, till early in the seventeenth cen-
tury, when it appears to have become less fre-
quented. The Globe was immediately contiguous
to the Bear Garden ; and it is probable, therefore,
that those who resorted thither went to the theatre
when the bear-baiting sports were over, and such
persons were not likely to form a very refined
audience.

It has often been said that Shakespeare, on his
first arrival in London from Stratford-on-Avon,
was received into the playhouse in a subordinate
position, and associated with company of a mean
and low rank ; but Mr. Dyce sees reason for be-
lieving that " he never was attached to any other
company (of players) than that which owned the
Blackfriars and the Globe." Among Shakespeare's
fellows at this time were Marlowe, Greene, Lodge,
Beaumont, Fletcher, Peele, Chettle, Burbage, and
a few others.

We have already made some mention of Bur-
bage in our account of Blackfriars Theatre,* but
as there is a certain sense in which " Master "
James Burbage, carpenter, &c., of the parish of
St. Leonard's, Shoreditch, may be regarded as the
father of the English stage, some additional notice
of him here, in connection with the Globe, may
not be altogether out of place. Although the
drama had flourished in the shape, at all events,
of miracle-plays and such-like performances in
the ages before the Reformation, yet under our
Tudor sovereigns the drama was not held in high

• See Vol. I., p «)».'

48

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tSouthwaHc

honour, nor was the profession of a dramatist
regarded as worthy of respect. Royal and court
authority had all along set its face against plays
and interludes as dangerous to the morals of the
young, and, therefore, things to be forbidden to
the citizens of London and their apprentices.
Indeed, all plays were strictly interdicted within
the City; and on one occasion, when it became

Lord Mayor's jurisdiction. Two circumstances
favoured his idea : firstly, his father-in-law was a
man of substance, owning a few houses at Shore-
ditch ; and secondly, in the previous year, just
prior to the revels at Kenilworth, Queen Elizabeth
had permitted her favourite, the Earl of Leicester,
to collect a body of actors, and to enrol them
under a patent from the crown. At the head of

/ ;

BEN JONSON.

known that a play was to be performed at the
" Boar's Head," in Aldgate, the Lord Mayor re-
ceived an order from Queen Mary to stop the
performance. In the early part of Elizabeth's
reign it was found that the dramatic clement was
too strongly mixed up with human nature to be
quite suppressed, and that it was better to bear
with and hold in check what could not be utterly
forbidden. Accordingly, in the year 1575, when
the Lord Mayor had issued an edict altogether
inhibiting plays within the circuit of the City, one
James Burbage, a carpenter, bethought himself that
he would erect a structure of wood, wliirli would
serve for a theatre, on a site just beyond the

this body was placed James Burbage. Aided by
the help of his father-in-law, he obtained from
a neighbour a lease of some land in Shoreditch,
with permission from the landlord to build on it
a theatre of wood. He did so forthwith ; the
play-house was opened ; crowds flocked to it, and
it was soon known over London as "The Theatre."
Its success was so great that some opposition was
soon threatened ; but Burbage .saw his chance,
and built hard by a rival theatre, which he called
"The Curtain." These two buildings became the
nursery of the English stage. In the one Ben
Joii'jon olifnined his first enpne;ement as a writer
and vamper of plays, and took to tiie stage for

Southwafk.]

SHAKESPEARE IN SOtlTHWARK.

49

a living. Encouraged by his double success at
Shoreditch, James Burbage grew bolder, and soon
afterwards erected a third theatre at Blackfriars,
under the nose of the Lord Mayor and of the
lords and ladies who lived around the Bridewell
Palace; and in spite of their remonstrances, he
held his own, supported, no doubt, by Leicester's
influence. In the year 1576 he opened the Black-
friars Theatre, which soon became the leading play-

some sense, manager too, there was no combined
effort at producing a genuine English drama. But
from the moment that James Burbage, like a
second Thespis, erected his wooden theatre in
Shoreditch, the calling of the player began to
assume a definite character, and acting grew into
the dignity of an art and a profession. Shake-
speare found all these theatres, and others too, in
existence when he came to London from Stratford

MAP OF SOUTH WARK, 172O.

house of the metropolis, and one which is con-
nected with the name of William Shakespeare.

Several other playhouses now sprang up in
quick succession — viz., the " Red Bull " and the
" Fortune," in the north of London ; and on the
south of the river, in Southwark, the " Rose," the
" Hope," the " Swan," and the " Globe," near
the " Bear Garden." Driven out of the City, and
put to their wits' end for an honest livelihood, the
poor players, who now began to style themselves
" Her Majesty's Servants," began to build theatres
in all the suburbs ,- and to James Burbage is due
the credit of having enabled them to do so. In
fact, until he came forward to assist the poor
dramatists by his skill as a carpenter, and, in
245

in 1585 or the following year; and it is quite
possible that, if it had not been for James Burbage,
he would never have come to the metropolis, or
written for us and for all time either Hamlet or
Macbeth, as lie would have had no stage on which
to perform them. At all events, when he came
to town, and joined the company at the Black-
friars, he became a fast friend of James Burbage
and of his son Richard, who became the Roscius
of his age, and the original actor of most of
Shakespeare's principal characters. The elder
Burbage did not live to see the lease of his first
theatre expire, and the building demolished and
carried across the river into Southwark by his
son Cuthbert. But he saw the Earl of Leicester's

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tSouthwark*

actors formally established as members of a recog-
nised profession, and able to mfluence the age in
which they lived. James Burbage died about the
year 1594; his son Richard survived him for
twenty years, dying two years before his friend
Will Shakespeare. It may be of interest to add
that the whole Burbage family lived and died in
Holywell (now High) Street, Shoreditch, and were
buried, along with several other " poor players,"
in St. Leonard's churchyard.

In 1596 Shakespeare appears to have lived near
the Bear Garden, in Southwark. " I have yet to
learn," writes Mr. Dyce, " that the fancy of Shake-
speare could not lu.xuriate in rural images, even
amid the fogs of Southwark and Blackfriars."

Shakespeare does not appear to have sustained
any loss by the burning of the Globe Theatre,
for he had parted with his interest in theatrical
property on retiring to Stratford-on-Avon. His late
partners, however, were sufferers to a very consider-
able extent, and Shakespeare, in all probability,
contributed — along with King James and many
of the nobility and gentry of the day — to the
rebuilding of the theatre in the course of the
following year.

As is well known, the line quoted as a motto
to this chapter was the motto of the Globe
Theatre ; but it may not be known that this
motto was the cause of two couplets of verse, by
Ben Jonson and Shakespeare respectively, quoted
by Mr. Dyce from " Poetical Characteristics," a
manuscript formerly in the Harleian collection.
Ben asks —

" If but st.ige-actors all the world displays,
Where shall we find spectators of their plays ?"

To this " Gentle Will " replies, with pleasant
repartee : —

" Little or much of what we see we do ;
We're all both actors and spectators too."

Besides the Globe, there were, as stated above,
three other theatres on the Bankside, called the
"Rose," the "Hope," and the "Swan." These
appear, for some undiscovered reason, to have
been called " private " theatres. " There was this
difference between these and the Globe and other
public theatres, that the latter were open to the
sky, except over the stage and galleries ; but the
private theatres were completely covered in from
the weather. On the roofs of all of them, whether
public or private, a flag was always hoisted to
mark the time of the performances.

The Rose Theatre had the honour of number-
ing Ben Jonson, in his early days, as one of its
play-writers. In Henslowc's " Diary," the manager,
under date July 28, 1597, acknowledges the receipt

of 3s. gd. as part of " Bengeramens Johnsone's
share ; " and, from another entry, it would appear
that on the same day Henslowe lent him four
pounds. Early in the December of the same
year, there is an entry of twenty shillings lent to
Jonson upon a book which he was to write for the
company before Christmas, the plot having been
already shown to its members. These facts show
that he had then gained some standing, though not,
perhaps, a very high one, as a dramatic writer.

From the Rose we follow him to the Globe,
where we find him for the first time associated
with Shakespeare, on whose recommendation the
company of that theatre accepted his first very
successful hit, Every Mati in his Humour, which
drew on him the notice of Queen Elizabeth.

Whilst writing for the theatres, Ben Jonson lived
on the Bankside, whence he afterwards removed to
the house of a wool-comber, just outside Temple
Bar, and close to the " Devil Tavern," where we
have already made his acquaintance.*

The Rose Theatre stood at the north end of
what was formerly called Rose Alley ; it is men-
tioned by Taylor the " water-poet," in his " True
Cause of the Waterman's Suit concerning Players,"
1 61 5. The Hope Theatre was near at hand,
though we cannot identify its site precisely.

The Swan Theatre, near the Globe, was standing
previous to 1598, and was so named from a house
and tenement called the " Swan," mentioned in a
charter of Edward VI., by which the manor of
Southwark is granted to the City of London. It
fell into decay in the reign of James I., was closed
in 1613, and was subsequently used only for gladia-
torial exhibitions. Yet in its time it had been well
frequented ; for a contemporary author says, " It
was the continent of the world, because half the
year a world of beauties and brave spirits resorted
to it."

It may be mentioned here, in passing, that on this
side of the Thames there was also another theatre
at Ncwington Butts, of which, however, we know
little except the fact that it was " frequented by
the citizens in summer." In the days of the late
Tudors and early Stuarts, the performances usually
commenced at 3 p.m., and the prices of admission
ranged from " a shilling for the best boxes or
rooms," down to sixpence, twopence, and even a
penny for the pit and galleries ; and it is worthy of
note that in the reign of the Protestant Elizabeth
plays were acted both publicly and at Court on
Sundays as well as on other days of the week, and
under her successor at Court.

• Sec Vol. I., p. 3^

Southwark.]

THE BEAR GARDEN.

51

But the theatres were not, as already hinted, the
only places of public amusement along the Bank-
side. A sort of circus, called at the time the Paris
Garden, was erected and opened here about the
middle of the sixteenth century, as a place for
bear-baiting. The public were admitted by the
payment of a penny at the gate, a penny at the
"entry of the scaffold " or raised seats, and a third
penny for "quiet standing." So popular indeed
did the sport become that it even trenched on the
theatres proper, and reduced their receipts. In
1591, as Mr. Chambers tells us in his " Book of
Days," an order was issued from the Privy Council
forbidding plays to be acted on Thursdays, because
that day had been long set apart for " bear-baiting
and such pastimes." The Lord Mayor of London
appears to have followed with a public notice com-
plaining that " in some places the players do use
to recite their plays to the great hurt and destruc-
tion of the game of bear-baiting and such like
pastimes, which are maintained for her Majesty's
pleasure." It maybe remarked that Elizabeth had
been right royally entertained by Lord Leicester
at Kenilworth with combats of dogs and bears,
and no doubt often amused herself by witnessing
the same scenes nearer home ; so that in all pro-
bability she was occasionally present at Bankside,
when, as we are told, " the baiting of bulls and of
bears was the favourite holiday pastime of her
Londoner subjects."

In Aggas's plan of London, taken in 1574, and
in the plan taken by Braun about the same time,
the bear-gardens are represented as plots of ground
with scaffolding for the spectators, bearing the
names of the " Bowlle Baytyng," and the " Beare
Baytynge." " In both plans," says Thomas Allen,
in his " History of Surrey," " the buildings appear
to be circular, and to have been evidently intended
as humble imitations of the ancient Roman amphi-
theatre. They stood in two adjoining fields, sepa-
rated only by a small strip of land ; but some
differences are observable in the spots on which
they are built. In Aggas's plan, which is the
earlier of the two, the strip of land which lies
between them contains only one large pond,
common to the two places of exhibition ; but in
Braun's this appears divided into three ponds, be-
sides a similar conveniency near each theatre. The
use of these pieces of water is very well explained
in ' Brown's Travels' (1685), where we find a plate
of the ' Elector of Saxony his beare garden at
Dresden,' in which is a large pond, with several
bears amusing themselves in it, the account of
which is highly curious : — ' In the hunting-house in
Ufi old town are fifteen bears, very weU provided

for, and looked unto. They have fountains and
ponds to wash themselves in, wherein they much
delight ; and near to the pond are high ragged posts
or trees set up for the bears to climb up, and scaf-
folds made at the top to sun and dry themselves ;
where they will also sleep, and come and go as the
keeper calls them.' The ponds and dog-kennels
for the bears on the Bankside are clearly marked
in the plans alluded to ; and the construction of
the amphitheatres themselves may be tolerably well
conceived, notwithstanding the smallness of the
scale on which they are drawn. They evidently
consisted, withinside, of a lower tier of circular
seats for the spectators, at the back of which a sort
of screen ran all round, in part open, so as to admit
a view from without, evident in Braun's delineation
by the figures who are looking through on the out-
side. The buildings are unroofed, and in both
plans are shown during the time of performance,
which in Aggas's view is announced by the display
of little flags or streamers on the top. The dogs
are tied up in slips near each place of ' baytyng,'
ready for the sport, and the combatants are actually
engaged in Braun's plan. Two little houses for
retirement are at the head of each theatre."

The " Bear Garden," as this place came in process
of time to be called, was still a place of frequent
and favourite resort among the cavaliers of the
reign of Charles I. ; but the sport of bear-baiting
went against the consciences, or, at all events, the
stomachs, of the " Roundheads," who did their
very best to suppress it. At the Restoration, how-
ever, it was revived (with some of the least good
points of the Royalist faith and practice), and the
Paris Garden again looked up, though only for a
time.

As a specimen of the sort of amusements which
went on here under the Stuart kings, let us take the
following out of Samuel Pepys's "Diary" for 1666.
He writes, under date of August 14, a few days
before the Great Fire of London : — " After dinner,
I went with my wife and Mercer to the Bear-
Garden, where I have not been, I think, of many
years, and saw some good sport of the bulls tossing
the dogs — one into the very boxes ; but it is a very
rude and nasty pleasure. We had a great many
Hectors in the same box with us (and one very fine
went into the pit and played his dog for a wager,
which was a strange sport for a gentleman), where
they drank wine, and drank Mercer's health first,
which I pledged with my hat off."

On the 28th of May in the following year, Pepys
was again here ; for under that date we find him
writing : — " Abroad, and stopped at Bear-garden
Stairs, there to see a prize fought. But the house

52

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

SO full there was no getting in there, so forced to
go through an ale-house into the pit, where the
bears are baited ; and upon a stool did see them
fight, which they did very furiously, a butcher and
a waterman. The former had the better all along,
till by-and-by the latter dropped his sword out of
his hand, and the butcher, whether or not seeing
his sword dropped I know not, but did give him a
cut over the wrist, so as he was disabled to fight
any longer. But Lord ! to see in a minute how
the whole stage was full of watermen to revenge
the foul play, and the butchers to defend their
fellow, though most blamed him : and there they
all fell to it, knocking and cutting down many
on each side. It was pleasant to see ; but that
I stood in the pit and feared that in the tumult
I might get some hurt. At last the battle broke
up, and so I away."

Again he writes, under date September 9th of
the same year : " To the Bear Garden, where now
the yard was full of people, and those most of them
seamen, striving by force to get in. I got into the
common pit, and there, with my cloak about my
face, I stood and saw the prize fought, till one of
them, a shoemaker, was so cut in both his wrists,
that he could not fight any longer ; and then they
broke off. His enemy was a butcher. The sport
very good ; and various humours to be seen among
the rabble that is there."

The inimitable secretary would seem to have
been rather partial to this rough kind of sport, for
we again find him here on tlie 12th of April, 1669,
as shown by the following entry, under that date
in his " Diary : " — " By water to the Bear Garden,
and there happened to sit by Sir Fretchville Hollis,
who is still full of his vain-glorious and prophane
talk. Here we saw a prize fought between a
soldier and a country fellow, one AVarrel, who
promised the least in his looks, and performed the
most of valour in his boldness and evenness of
mind, and smiles in all lie did, that ever I saw;
and we were all both deceived and infinitely taken
with him. He did soundly beat the soldier, and
cut him over the head. Thence back to White
Hall, mightily ])leased all of us with the sight,
and particularly this fellow, as a most extraordinary
man for his temper and evenness in fighting."

John Evelyn went on one occasion to witness
the "sports" at Bankside, but api)arc'ntly he was
too disgusted to go there again. Here is the
record of his visit, as told in his " l^iary " under date
of i6th of June, 1670 ; — " I went with some friends
to the Bear Garden, where was cork-fighting, dog-
fighting, beare and bull baiting, it being a famous
day for all these butcherly sports, or rather bar-

barous cruelties. The bulls did exceeding well,
but the Irish wolfe-dog e-xceeded, which was a tall
greyhound, a stately creature indeede, who beate a
cruell mastiff. One of the bulls toss'd a dog full
into a lady's lap, as she sat in one of the boxes at a
considerable height from the arena. Two poore
dogs were kill'd, and so all ended with the ape on
horseback, and I most heartily weary of the rude
and dirty pastime."

Chambers, in his " Book of Days," quotes a
statement from the learned Erasmus, who visited
England in the reign of Henry VIII., to the effect
that the royal establishment included a " Master of
the King's Bears," and that even the great noble-
men had their bear-wards ; and that " many ' herds
of bears ' were regularly trained for the arena."
He also extracts from Laneham's account of the
festivities at Kenilworth Castle the following pic-
turesque description of a bear-baiting held on
July 14, 1575, the sixth day of her Majesty's stay,
when thirteen bears and a number of ban-dogs
(a kind of mastiff) were tied up ready in the inner
court. Laneham quaintly writes, comparing the
baiting to a scene in Westminster Hall : — " The
bears were brought forth into the court, the dogs
set to them, to argue the points, even face to face.
They had learned counsel also of both parts (i.e.,
on both sides) .... Very fierce, both th' one
and tother, and eager in argument. If the dog in
pleading would pluck the bear by the throat, the
bear, with traverse, would claw him again by the
scalp ; confess an he list but avoid he could not
that was bound to the bar : and his counsel told
him that it could do him no policy in pleading.
Therefore, thus with fending and fearing, with
plucking and tugging, scratching and biting, by
plain tooth and nail to (the one) side and tother,
such expense of blood and of leather was there
between them as a month's licking, I ween, will
not recover ; and yet they remain as far out as
ever they were. It was a sport very pleasant
of these beasts to see the bear with his pink eyes
leering after his enemy's approach, the nimbleness
and weight of the dog to take his advantage, and
the force and experience of the bear again to avoid
the assault : if he were bitten in one place, he
would pinch in another to get free : if he were
taken once, then what shift with biting, with
clawing, with roaring, tossing, and tumbling, he
would work to wind himself from them, and when
he was loose, to shake his ears twice or thrice, with
the blood and the slaver about his phisnomy {sic)
was a matter of goodly relief"

Ben Jonson is reproached by Dekker with having
been so degraded as to have performed at Paris

Southwark.l

PARIS GARDEN.

53

Garden. These places seem always to have been
in bad repute even when they flourished most.
Crowley, a versifier of the reign of Henry VIII.,
thus speaks of the Paris Garden : —

" What folly is this to keep with danger
A great mastiff dog and foul ugly bear,
And to this anent, to see them two fight
With terrible tearings, a full ugly sight :
And methinks these men are most fools of all
Whose store of money is but very small.
And yet every Sunday they will surely spend
One penny or two, the bearward's living to mend.

"At Paris Garden, each Sunday, a man shall not fail
To find two or three hundred for the bearward's vale :
One half-penny apiece they use for to give,
When some have not more in their purses, I believe.
Well, at the last day their consciences will declare
That the poor ought to have all that they may spare.
If you, therefore, go to witness a bear-fight.
Be sure God His curse will upon you light."

Pennant, who quotes these verses, seems to
consider the last two lines as a prophecy of the
calamity that happened at the Garden in the year
1582. An accident, "heaven-directed," as he says,
befell the spectators ; the scaffolding, crowded with
people, suddenly fell, and more than a hundred
persons were killed or severely wounded. The
Bear Garden, it may be added, in spite of its name,
would appear to have been chiefly used, during the
latter period of its existence, for bull-baiting.
Randolph, in his "Muse's Looking-glass," makes
the following reference to this particular species of
amusement ; —

" Lastly, he wished

The bull might cross the Thames to the Bear Garden,
And there be sorely baited."

It was to the Globe Theatre and the Bear
Garden probably that Hentzner alludes in his
" Travels in England," published in the reign of
Elizabeth, when he writes : — " Without the city are
some theatres, where actors do represent almost
every day some tragedy or comedy to numerous
audiences : these are concluded with excellent
music, a variety of dances, amid the excessive
applause of those that are present. There is also
another place, built in the form of a theatre, which
serves for the baiting of bulls and of bears ; they
are fastened behind, and then worried by great
English bull-dogs, but not without great risque
to the dogs, from the horns of the one, and the
teeth of the other ; and it sometimes happens they
are killed on the spot ; fresh ones are immediately
supplied in the places of those that are wounded or
tired. To this entertainment there often follows
that of whipping a blinded bear, which is performed
by five or six men, standing circularly with whips,
which they exercise upon him without any mercy,

as he cannot escape from them because of his
chain ; he defends himself with all his force and
skill, throwing down all who come within his
reach and are not active enough to get out of it ;
on which occasions he frequently tears the whips
out of their hands, and breaks them. At these
spectacles, and everywhere else, the English are
constantly smoking tobacco. In the theatres, fruits,
such as apples, pears, and nuts, according to the
season, are carried about to be sold, as well as ale
and wine."

The theatres and gardens at Bankside, however,
in spite of their bad reputation, were occasionally
patronised by royalty ; for we read that Queen
Elizabeth, on the 26th of May, 1599, went by
water with the French ambassadors to Paris
Gardens, where they saw a baiting of bulls and
bears. Indeed, Southwark seems to have long
been of sporting notoriety, for, in the Humorous
Lovers, printed in 161 7, one of the characters
says, "I'll set up my bills, that the gamesters of
London, Horsley-down, Southwark, and New-
market may come in and bait him [the bear] here
before the ladies," &c. It may here be added,
as a scrap of antiquarian information, that the first
exhibition of bear-baiting in England of which we
read, was in the reign of King John, at Ashby-de-la-
Zouch, where " thyss straynge passtyme was intro-
duced by some Italyans for his highness' amusement,
wherewith he and his court were highly delighted."

It is clear that the " sport " to be witnessed in
the Bear Garden was still under the patronage and
countenance of royalty some century or so later
than the reign of Elizabeth, for in 1675 we read
of a warrant signed by Lord Arlington, ordering
ten pounds to be paid to Mr. James Davies, the
"master of his Majesty's bears, bulls, and dogs,"
for " making ready the rooms at the Bear Garden,
and baiting the bears before the Spanish am-
bassadors."

The celebrated actor, Alleyn — the founder of
Dulwich College, of whom we shall have more to
say anon — enjoyed this lucrative post as "keeper
of the king's wild beasts, or master of the Ro)'al
Bear Garden, situated on the Bankside in South-
wark." The profits of this place are said by his
biographer to have been " immense," sometimes
amounting to ^£500 a year ; and this will account
for the fortune of which he died possessed. A
little before his death, he sold his share and patent
to his wife's father, a Mr. Hinchtoe, for ^580.

Isaac D'Israeli, in his " Life of Charles I.," men-
tions the fact that the Sabbatarian view of Sunday
was much advanced in London by the accident
mentioned above which occurred here in 1582 : —

54

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

" At Paris Garden, where public amusements were
performed on Sundays, a crov/ded scaffold gave
way ; and by this accident, some were killed, and
many were wounded." The Lord Mayor (who
was a leading Puritan) made religious capital out
of the fact by sending a formal notice of it to
Lord Burleigh, as a "judgment of heaven for the
violation of the Sabbath," thereby confusing the
seventh with the first day of the week.

reasons alleged for this royal grant are stated by
Anderson, in the quaint language of the time, to
have been for " the honest and reasonable recrea-
tion of good and civil people, who for their quality
and ability may lawfully use the games of bowling,
tennis, dice, cards, tables, nine-holes, or any other
game hereafter to be invented."

The Puritans' aversion to the sport, however, as
Macaulay remarks, arose not so much from pity for

TllK l)OK0i:ciH HIGH STREET, IN 1825.

We find that, in spite of his Puritan education,
king James I. had the good sense to legalise
those rational amusements without which life in a
crowded metropolis would be past endurance. It
is well known that he published the " Book of
Sports," but it is not equally well known that
in 1620 he issued his royal warrant to Clement
Cottrell, the groom-porter of his household, to
license certain houses for bowling-alleys and tennis-
courts, and even for cards and dice. Twenty-four
bowling-alleys were licensed under this authority
in London and Westminster, four more in South-
wark, one in St. Catherine's, one in Shorcditch, and
two in Lamlieth. Within these same limits, fourteen
tennis-courts were allowed, and also forty " taverns
or ordinaries for playing at c.irds and dice." The

the bull or the bear, as from envy at the pleasure
felt by the spectators. Verily, an amiable and
saint-like trait ! On the Restoration of Charles IL,
and the downfall of the Puritan party, it can
hardly be a matter of surprise to find that the
legislation which had so long been applied to the
suppression of even rational amusements should
have taken a swing in the opposite direction.

It may be added that, although bear-baiting and
bull-baiting never flourished under our later Stuart
or our earlier Hanoverian sovereigns, it was not
until 1835 that the practice was actually put down
by Act of Parliament, which forbade the keeping
of any house, jiit, or other place for baiting or fight-
ing any bull, bear, dog, or other animal. "And
thus," observes Mr. Clumbers. " after an existencf*

56

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark,

of at least seven centuries, this ceased to rank
among the amusements of the English people."

Strype, in his first edition of " Stow," published
in 1720, speaking of Bear Alley, on this spot, says,
" Here is a glass-house, and about the middle a
new-built court, well inhabited, called Bear Garden
Square, so called, as being built in the place where
the Bear Garden formerly stood, until removed to
the other side of the water ; which is more con-
venient for the butchers and such like, who are
taken with such rustic sports as the baiting of bears
and bulls."

In the early part of the last century it would
seem that another Bear Garden at Hockley-in-
the-Hole, near Clerkenwell, had superseded this
place of amusement in the public favour, probably
on account of the absence of bridges across the
Thames ; and consequently, when it is suggested in
the Spectator of August nth, 171 1, that those who
go to theatres merely for a laugh had better " seek
their diversion at the Bear Garden," in all pro-
bability the reference is not to Bankside.

The name of the Bear Garden, however, still
exists in this neighbourhood, being painted up
at the corner of a court between the Bankside and
Sumner Street.

The old Paris Garden— the name of which, too,
still survives in this locality — was circular, open
to the sky, surrounded with a high wall, without
external windows ; the scaffolds, or boxes, were in
a wooden structure in the interior, surmounted by
a high-pitched roof and a cupola.

The names of these and of many other such
places of amusement bear testimony to the spirit of
national jollity on the part of Londoners during
the eighteenth century. But pleasure-gardens are
almost as transitory as pleasure itself ; of all these
not one now remains " the sad historian of the
pensive tale " of bygone mirth and merriment.
The jests have passed away, and so are the trees
beneath which, and the walls within which, those
jests were uttered, and those who ])ealed back
echoes of the loudest laughter are silent in their
graves.

In the neighbourhood of the theatres were
several public gardens near the Thames, then a
pellucid and beautiful stream. There were the
Queen's Pike Gardens (now Pye (hardens), where
pike were bred in ponds ; the Asparagus Garden,
and Pimlico Garden. The last-named was a very
fashionable resort, and famous for the handsome
dresses of the promenadcrs. Indeed, to "walk
in Pimlico " was a proverbial phrase for an intro-
duction to the very elile of society.

In Chainbcr.s's " iiook of Days " is given a view

of London during the Great Fire in 1666, as seen
from the rear of Bankside, from a print of the period
by Visscher. The foreground is poetically raised,
so as to represent a fairly high hill, though there
is no high ground all the way down to Clapham ;
on it are sitting well-dressed citizens coolly survey-
ing the disaster, while their dogs are lying asleep
by their side. Evelyn writes in his " Diary : " —
" 2 Sept. This fatal night, about ten, began that
deplorable fire neere Fish Streete in London. — 3.
I had public prayers at home. The fire continuing,
after dinner I took coach with my wife and sonn,
and went to the Bankside in Southwark, where we
beheld the dismal spectacle, the whole Citty in
dreadfuU flames neare the water side ; all the houses
from the Bridge, all Thames Street, and upwards
towards Cheapside, downe to the Three Cranes,
were now consum'd The poore in-
habitants were dispers'd about St. George's Fields,
and Moorefields as far as Highgate, and severall
miles in circle, some under tents, some under
miserable hutts and hovells, many without a rag or
any necessary utensils, bed or board, who from
delicatenesse, riches, and easy accommodations in
stately and well furnish'd houses, were now reduced
to extreamest misery and poverty."

Chambers tells us, in his work above quoted,
that there was an ale-house in Southwark, which
had on its walls an authentic portrait of Dick
Tarleton, the eccentric comic actor of Elizabeth's
time. No doubt this " ale-house " was in the
neighbourhood of Bankside; but though Dick's
name was kept up by tradition for upwards of
a century, and though his jests were collected
and published, with notes and illustrations, by
the Shakespeare Society, it is impossible now to
identify the house in which many of Shakespeare's
players no doubt used to congregate.

Another old tavern, formerly standing in the
neighbourhood, bore the sign of " The Tumble-
down Dick," which afforded, as the "Adventurer"
says, a fine moral on the instability of human
greatness, and the consequences of ambition. It
refers, of course, to Richard Cromwell, and his
fall from the power bequeathed to him by his
father Oliver. An allusion to this tumbling pro-
pensity occurs in Butler's " Remains," in the tale
of the " Cobbler and the Vicar of Bray." —

" Wlvit's worse, old Noll is matching ofT;

And Dick, his heir apparent,
Succeeds him in the Government,

A very lame Vicc-Gerent.
He'll reipn bnt lillle time, ])Oor tool I

Hut sink beneath the state,
Tliiit will not fail to ride the fool

'Hove common horseman's weit;ht."

South warlc]

THE OLD TOWN HALL.

57

Of several of the old inns and taverns of South-
wark we shall have occasion to speak when dealing
with the High Street ; but we may remark here
that those in Bankside, and along by the river
generally, had a peculiar characteristic of their
own, which has been well described by Charles
Dickens in " Our Mutual Friend " and some other
of his works. George Augustus Sala, too, in his

"Gaslight and Daylight," tells us, with a certain
amount of drollery, how that "the Surrey shore
of the Thames, at London, is dotted with damp
houses of entertainment ;" and then he goes on to
describe the typical waterside public-house, the
" Tom Tug's Head," as " surrounded on three
sides by mud, and standing on rotten piles of
timber, and with its front always unwashed."

CHAPTER VL

SOUTHWARK (f<;«i';«««fl.— HIGH .STREET, &c.

" Brevis est via." — Virgil^ "Eclogues."

The Southwark Entrance to London Bridge — The Town Hall—Southwark Fair — Union Hall— Dr. ElHotson— Mint Street— Suffolk House

Lant Street — Charles Dickens's Home when a Boy — The Mint— Great Suffolk Street— The "Moon-rakers" — The Last Barber-surgeon —
Winchester Hall — Finch's Grotto Gardens — The Old Workhouse of Southwark — King's Bench Prison — Major Hanger, Dr. Syntax, Haydon,
and George Moreland, Inmates of the King's Bench — The "Marshal" of the King's Bench — Alsager's Bleaching-ground — Blackman
Street — .Sir James South — Eliza Cook— Kent Street — A Disreputable Neighbourhood — The Lock Hospital — A Hard-working Philanthropist
— St. George's Church— The Burial-place of Bishop Bonner — MarriaE;e of General Monk and Nan Clarges — The Marshalsea— Anecdotes of
Bishop Bonner — Colonel Culpeper — Dickens's Reminiscences of the Marshalsea— The Sign of "The Hand" — Commercial .\spect of
Southwark — Sanitary Condition of Southwark — .\ppearance of Southwark in the Seventeenth Century.

The Borough High Street, as we have already
shown, serving for many centuries as the entrance
into London from Surrey and Kent, and, indeed,
from the Continent, has always been a very im-
portant thoroughfare of the metropolis ; but, as a
pleasant, gossiping writer of modern times, Mr.
Miller, has truthfully observed in his " Picturesque
Sketches" — "What a different feature does the
Southwark entrance to London Bridge present to
what it did only a few brief years ago I Every
few minutes omnibuses are now thundering to
and from the railway terminus ; while passengers
think no more of journeying to Brighton and
back, and remaining eight or ten hours there,
on a long summer's day, than they formerly did of
travelling to Greenwich ; for it took the old, slow
stage-wagons as long to traverse the five miles to
the latter as our iron-footed steed to drag the five
hundred passengers at his heels, and land them
within sight of the wide, refreshing sea."

Starting from St. Saviour's Church, and passing
under the railway bridge which spans the road,
we now make our way southward. The alterations
made in the High Street, when Southwark Street
was planned and formed, involved the demolition
of the Town Hall. This building stood at the
angle formed by the High Street and Compter
Street, and dated its erection from the close of
the last century, when it was built in place of an
older edifice, which had become ruinous. The
old Town Hall, in its turn, too, occupied the
place of a still older hall, having been rebuilt in

the reign of Charles H. After the union of the
parish of St. Margaret-at-Hill with that of St.
Saviour's, the old church of the former parish was
desecrated, being used partly as a prison, and
partly as a court of justice. The building was
destroyed in the fire of 1676. A statue of the
king was placed in front of the building by which
it was succeeded ; and on the base of the pediment
was an inscription notifying the "re-edification,"
with the date 1686. On one side of the statue
were the arms of London ; and on the other, those
of Southwark. On the occasion of the rebuilding
of the hall in 1793, the statue of the king, instead
of being replaced in its original situation, was sold,
and set up in a neighbouring court called Three
Crown Court, upon a pedestal of brickwork, the
inside of which, strange to say, was made to serve
as a watch-box for a " Charley." At the same
time, a figure of Justice, which had formerly, in
conjunction with one of Wisdom, supported the
Lord Mayor's seat in the Town Hall, was placed
near the bar of a neighbouring cofiee-house. On
this event, the following jeu d'esprit is preserved in
Concanen and Morgan's " History of the Parish of
St. Mary Overy : " —

"Justice and Charles have left the hill.

The City claimed their place ;
Justice resides at Dick West's still ;

But mark poor Charles's case :
Justice, safe from wind and weather.

Keeps the tavern score ;
But Charley, turned out altogether.

Keeps the watch-house door."

5^

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

fSouthwark.

After remaining for some time in Three Cro\vn
Court, the poor unfortunate monarch, we beheve,
found a resting-place in the shady nook of a garden
in the New Kent Road. The prison, or compter,
as it was called, was removed to Mill Lane, Tooley
Street, but has since been demolished.

The new Town Hall was a very plain and un-
pretending structure. It consisted of a rusticated
basement, from which rose four Ionic pilasters.
The windows were arched, and the interior was
fitted up as a police-office. The pohce-court was
eventually removed further southward, to Blackman
Street. In front of the Town Hall, facing Black-
man Street, the hustings for the election of repre-
sentatives for the borough were usually erected.

The Town Hall has been occasionally used for
criminal trials. Thus we read that on the 23rd of
June, 1746, eight of the judges went in procession
from Serjeants' Inn to the Town Hall on St. Mar-
garet's Hill, and opened the special commission
for the trial of the prisoners concerned in the
rebellion in Scotland. Those prisoners who were
found guilty and received sentence of death were
soon afterwards hung, drawn, and quartered on
Kennington Common. Between their trial and
execution the prisoners were confined in the new
gaol, Southwark.

On St. Margaret's Hill, in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of the Town Hall, Southwark Fair was
formerly held. This fair, afterwards so famous,
was established by virtue of a charter from King
Edward VI., dated 1550. The charter cost the
good citizens of London nearly jC^5° — a- large
sum at that period — and the fair itself was to
be held on the 7lh, 8th, and 9th of September. It
was one of the three great fairs of special impor-
tance, described in a proclamation of Charles 1.,
" unto which there is usually extraordinary resort
out of all parts of the kingdom." The fairs here
referred to, according to Rymer, were " Bartho-
lomew Fair, in Smithfield ; Sturbridge Fair, in Cam-
bridge ; and Our Lady Fair, in the borough of
Southwark." It was opened in great state by the
Lord Mayor and Sherifis, who rode over London
Bridge, and so on to Newington, thence back
to the Bridge House, where, of course, was a
banquet. "The 'hood-bearer' on this occasion,"
writes John Timbs, " wore a fine embroidered cap,
said to have been presented to the City by a
monastery in 1473."

Allusions to the fair are fre(|uent enough in the
old writers ; but it is most familiar to us through
Hogarth's picture of "Southwark Fair." In his
time the fair lasted fourteen days, and extended
from St. Margaret's Hill, the spot where it was

originally held (near the Town Hall), to the Mint ;
and of course the visitors comprised a considerable
portion of the inhabitants of that favoured locality.
In Hogarth's plate — a copy of which we repro-
duce on page 55 — we see Figg, the prize-fighter,
with plastered head, riding on a miserable nag ;
Cadman, a celebrated rope-dancer, is represented
flying by a rope from the tower of St. George's
Church to that part of the Mint which lies in the
rear of the houses opposite. The portrait of
another famous rope-dancer, Violante, is introduced
by Hogarth. From the steeple of the church
of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, soon after its com-
pletion, this slack-rope performer descended, head
foremost, on a rope stretched across St. Martin's
Lane to the Royal Mews, in the presence of the
princesses and a host of noble personages. Besides
these characters, Hogarth shows us a beautiful
woman beating a drum, attended by a black boy
with a trumpet ; a booth tumbling down, and the
name of the piece to be performed, the /w// of
Bagdad, is inscribed on the tottering paper lantern.
Tamerlane, in full armour, is being taken into
custody by a bum-baihff; and in the background
are shows with enormous placards announcing the
Royal Wax-work, the horse of Troy, and the won-
derful performances of Bankes and his horse. If
the company frequenting the fair was of a strange
sort, the entertainments offered appear to have
been of a suitable character. From old advertise-
ments of the fair, of dates between 1730 and 1740,
we learn that at Lee and Harper's great booth
was performed a thrilling tragedy called Bateman,
or the Unhappy Marriage ; but, lest the audience
should be too much affected, it was lightened by
the Comical Humours of Sparro7i>, Pumpkin, and
Sheer going to the Wars. There appears to have
been as great a taste for burlesque as that which
now exists ; but the subjects were curiously chosen.
We have the rudiments of a modern pantomime
in The Fall of Phaeton, interspersed with comic
scenes between Punch, Harlequin, Scaramouch,
Pierrot and Columbine, " which," we are told, "the
town has lately been in expectation to see per-
formed." The performers, it should be remembered,
were not wretched show-folk, but the regular actors
of the large theatres, who constantly established
booths at Bartholomew's and Southwark Fairs, in
which the most charming actresses and accom-
plished actors thought it no disgrace to appear in
the miserable trash mentioned above. In the
biography of "Jo Miller," we read that the sound
of Smithfield revelry had but just died away, to be
caught uj), as if in echo, by Southw.irk, when the
Daily Post, having shed a tearful jjaragraph upon

Southwarlc.]

SOUTHWARK FAIR.

59

the opening sepulchre of " Matt Prior," proceedeth
to tell how that " Mr. Doggett, the famous player,
is likewise dead, having made a standing provision
annually for a coat and badge, to be rowed for
by six watermen on the ist of August, being
the day of His Majesty's happy accession to the
Throne." This was on the 23rd of September,
1 72 1. Two days afterwards we read, "Yesterday
the remains of Mr. Dogget were interred at Eltham,
in Kent." So far the humble player — now for the
courtier poet. " The same evening the remains of
Matthew Prior, Esquire, were carried to the Jeru-
salem Chamber, and splendidly interred in West-
minster Abbey." When " Jo " received the news
of Doggett's death, we have not the smallest doubt
that he was too much overcome to go on with
the part he was playing at Southwark Fair ; and
having that day divided the profits of the Smithfield
speculation with Pinkey and Jubilee Dickey, he
assiduously mourned his departed master at the
" Angel Tavern," which then stood next door to
the King's Bench.

Besides the theatrical entertainments, Faux's
sleight of hand and the mechanical tricks and
dexterity of Dr. Pinchbeck were for many years
favourite adjuncts of Southwark Fair.

John Evelyn in his "Diary," under date 13th
September, 1660, says, "I saw in Southwark, at
St. Margaret's Faire, monkies and asses dance and
do other feates of activity on y' tight rope ; they
were gallantly clad d la mode, went upright, saluted
the company, bowing and pulling off their hatts ;
they saluted one another with as good a grace as
if instructed by a dancing-master. They turned
heels over head with a basket having eggs in it,
without breaking any ; also with lighted candles
in their hands and on their heads, without extin-
guishing them, and with vessells of water, without
spilling a drop. I also saw an Italian wench
daunce and performe all the tricks on y'^ tight rope
to admiration ; all the Court went to see her.
Likewise here was a man who tooke up a piece
of iron cannon of about 400 lb. weight, with the
haire of his head onely."

From Pepys's own quaint and amusing descrip-
tion, too, we glean some further particulars of the
entertainments provided here. On the 21st of Sep-
tember, 1668, he writes : " To Southwark Fair, very
dirty, and there saw the puppet-show of Whittington,
which is pretty to see ; and how that idle thing do
work upon people that see it, and even myself
too ! And thence to Jacob Hall's dancing on the
ropes, where I saw such action as I never saw
before, and mightily worth seeing ; and here took
acquaintance with a fellow who carried me to a

tavern, whither came the music of this booth, and
by-and-by Jacob Hall himself, with whom I had
a mind to speak, whether he ever had any mischief
by falls in his time. He told me, ' Yes, many,
but never to the breaking of a limb.' He seems a
mighty strong man. So giving them a bottle or
two of wine, I away."

In the reign of George 11. the fairs of London
were in the zenitli of their fame. Mr. Frost ob-
serves in his " Old Showmen : " — " During the
second quarter of the eighteenth century they were
resorted to by all classes of the people, even by
royalty ; and the theatrical booths which formed
part of them boasted of the best talent in the
profession. Not only were they regarded as the
nurseries of histrionic ability, as the provincial
theatres came afterwards to be regarded ; but they
witnessed the efforts to please of the best actors
of the London theatres when in the noon of their
success and popularity. Cibber, Quin, Macklin,
Woodward, Shuter, did not disdain to appear before
a Bartholomew Fair audience, nor Fielding to
furnish them with the early gushings of his humour.
The inimitable Hogarth made the light of his
peculiar genius shine upon them, and the memories
of the ' Old Showman ' are preserved in more than
one of his pictures." Southwark Fair was not
finally suppressed till 1763. The booth-keepers
used to collect money for the relief of the prisoners
in the Marshalsea hard by.

In the registers of the parish of St. Margaret's
occurs the following curious entry, under date
145 1-2 : "Rec"'- in dawnsing [dancing] money of
the Maydens, iiii'. \\\]d." To what this may refer,
whether to any religious ceremony or public pro-
cession, it is at this distant period difficult to tell.

At the east end of Union Street, close by St.
Margaret's Hill, fonnerly stood Union Hall. On
the opening of this street to the Borough by taking
down the "Greyhound Inn," in 1781, Union Hall
was built by subscription, for the use of the magis-
trates, previous to which time they sat at the "Swan
Inn," which was afterwards converted into a private
house. On the passing of the Police Act in 1830
Union Hall was made one of the Metropolitan
police offices. 'On the destruction of the old Town
Hall, as above mentioned, the sessions for the
county were held there, though it was not adequate
to the business till the county gaol and a sessions-
house were built nearer to Newington Butts.

At No. 104 in the High Street was bom Dr.
EUiotson, F.R.S., the celebrated physician. He
was the son of a chemist and druggist, whose house
bore the sign of the " Golden Key," of which a
token exists. Dr. EUiotson was a devoted student

6o

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwatk.

of mesmerism and mesmeric influences, upon which
he wrote largely. Thackeray, it may be added,
was taken ill when writing " Pendennis," and was
saved from death by Dr. Elliotson, to whom, in
gratitude, he dedicated the novel when he lived to
finish it. Dr. Elliotson died in 1868.

Mint Street, opposite St. George's Church, keeps
in remembrance a mint for the coinage of money,
which was established here by Henry VIIL at
Suffolk House, the residence of his brother-in-law.

Edward VL, in the second year of his reign, came
from Hampton Court and dined at this house,
where he knighted John Yorke, one of the Sheriffs
of London. He afterwards returned through the
City to Westminster. Queen Mary gave the man-
sion to Nicholas Heath, Archbishop of York, " and
to his successors for ever, to be their inn or lodging
for their repair to London," as a recompense for
York House, Westminster, which was taken from
Wolsey and the see of York by her royal father.

Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. The mansion
was a large and stately edifice, fronting upon the
High Street. It was ornamented with turrets and
cupolas, and enriched with carved work ; at the
back, the range of outbuildings formed an enclosed
court. The house was sometimes called the
" Duke's Palace," as well as Suffolk House ; and it
is likewise mentioned as " Brandonne's Place, in
Southwarke," in .Sir John Howard's expenses, under
the year 1465. It was exchanged by the Duke
of Suffolk with Henry VHL, the king giving him
in return the house of the Bishop of Norwich in
St Martin's-in-the-Fields. On this exchange the
mansion took the name of Sonthwark Place, and a
mint was established here toi the king's use.

Archbishop Heath sold the premises, which
were partly pulled down, many small cottages being
built on the site. Some portion of the house which
was left became the residence of Edward Brom-
field, who was Lord Mayor in 1637. He was
owner of the premises in 1650. His son John was
created a baronet in 1661, and in 1679 he was
described as " of Suffolk Place, Bart.," in the
marriage settlement with Joyce, only child ot
Thomas Lant, son and heir of William Lant, a
merchant of London. This estate devolving on the
Lant family, we find that in the reign of Queen
Anne an Act was passed for the improvement of
Suffolk Place, empowering Thomas Lant to let
leases for filty-one years, la 17 73 it was advertised

Southwark.)

THE MINT.

6i

to be let as seventeen acres, on which were 400
houses, with a rental of ;^i,ooo per annum. The
entire estate was sold early in the present century,
in ninety-eight lots, the rental of the estate having
been just doubled. The family of Lant are still
kept in remembrance by Lant Street, which runs
from Blackman Street parallel with Mint Street.

A back attic at the house of an " Insolvent-
Court agent " belonging to the Marshalsea, in Lant

late Duke of Suffolk, in the reign of Henry VIII.,
coming into the king's hands, was called Southwork
(sk) Place, and a mint of coinage was there kept
for the king. The inhabitants of late — like those
of the White Fryars, Savoy, &c. — have assumed to
themselves a protection from arrests for debts^
against whom a severe though just statute was
made in the 8 and 9 William and Mary, whereby
any person having moneys owing from any in these

THE KI.NG's btNCH, SOUIHVVaKK,

Street, was one of the temporary homes of Charles
Dickens when a boy ; it was the same in which he
described Mr. Bob Sawyer as living many years
afterwards. " A bed and bedding," he writes,
" were sent over for me and made up on the floor.
The little window had a pleasant prospect of a
timber-yard ; and when I took possession of my
new abode, I thought it was a Paradise." The
various members of the family of the Insolvent-
Court Agent are immortalised as the " Garlands "
in the " Old Curiosity Shop."

The Mint is thus curiously described in the
"New View of London," published in 1708: —
" It is on the west side of Blackman Street, near
against St. George's Church, and was so called for
that a sumptuous house, built by Charles Brandon,
246

pretended privileged places, may, upon a legal prO'
cess taken out, require the Sheriffs of London and
Middlesex, the head Bailiff of the Dutchy Liberty,
or the High Sheriff of Surrey, or Bailiff of South-
work, or their deputies, to take out a /losse comi-
tatus, and arrest such persons, or take their goods
upon execution." And then follows a long list of
penalties, including the pillory, to which all persons
resisting their authority are exposed. It is added,
" Yet notwithstanding this place pretends as much
to Privilege as before, though this Act has supprest
all other (such-like) places. And these streets are
reckoned within the compass of this Mint^viz.i
Mint Street, Crooked Lane, and Bell's Rents ; alse
Cannon Street, Suftblk Street, St. George Street,
Queen Street, King Street, Peter Street, Harrow

62

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

rSouthwark.

Alley, Anchor Alley, and Duke Street, all in the
parish of St. George's, Southwork." The Mint, as
the district was called, consisted, therefore, of several
streets, whose inhabitants claimed the privilege of
protection from arrest for debt — a privilege which,
says the "Ambulator" (1774), "has since been sup-
pressed by the legislature, who have lately passed
an .Act for establishing a Court of Conscience here
for the better recovery of small debts."

The place had become a refuge for the worst
characters — in fact, another Alsatia, into which
few bailiffs or officers of justice dared to venture.
Felons and outlaws, debtors and vagabonds, herded
there ; and to this day it is one of the plague-spots
of the metropolis. Marriages, not d la mode, like
those of Mayfair and the Fleet, were performed
here constantly, and highwaymen and burglars
found a secure retreat in its mazy courts. '' Mat o'
the Mint " is one of Macheath's companions, and
Jonathan Wild was a frequent visitor. To poor
authors it was a more secure Grub Street ; but
though duns could not enter, starvation and death
could. Here, in 17 16, died Nahum Tate, once
poet laureate, and, in conjunction with Brady, the
author of that metrical version of the Psalms which
superseded Sternhold and Hopkins's psalmody in
prayer-books. Allusion is often made to the pre-
cincts of the Mint by the poets and comic writers.
The reader of Pope's satires will not forget the
lines —

" No place is sacred, not the chuich ij free,
E'en Sunday shines no ' Sabbath Day' to me ;
Then from the Mint walks forth the man of rhyme,
Happy to catch mc just at dinner-time."

Nathaniel Lee, the dramatist, lived often in the
Mint ; he had frequent attacks of insanity, and at
one period of his life spent four years in Bedlam.
He wrote eleven plays, and possessed genius (as
Addison admitted) well adapted for tragedy, tliough
clouded by occasional rant, obscurity, and bombast.
Latterly, this ill-starred poet depended for subsis-
tence on a small weekly allowance from the theatre.
He died in 1691 or 1692. Pope often alludes to
the Mint with scorn, and he makes mention of
Lee's existence here in the following couplet : —

" In durance, exile, Bedlam, or the Mint,

Like Lee or I3udgell, 1 will rhyme and print."

There are numerous allusions in old gossiping
books and pamphlets of the seventeenth century to
the customs of the Mint, the vagabond population
of which maintained their privileges with a high
hand. If a bailiff ventured to cross the boundary
of the sanctuary, he was seized and searched for
proofs of his rnlling ; then, when the iierilous docu-
ments were found, dragged by the mob from pump

to pump, and thoroughly soused. A ducking in'
one of the open sewer ditches followed, and then
he was made to swear, kissing a brickbat debaubed
with filth from the cloaca, that he would never again
attempt to serve a process in the Mint. The next
step was the payment of certain fees for the pur-
chase of gin. If he had no money in his pockets,
he was handed over to the tender mercy of the
women and boys, who gave him a few more duck-
ings and shampooings with filthy brickbats, and
then kicked him out of the precincts.

An attempt was made to curtail the privilege of
protection aftbrded by the Mint in the reign of
William III., but it was not finally suppressed till
the Georgian era.

Thomas Miller, in his " Picturesque Sketches of
London," published in 1852, gives the following
description of the old Mint, which l>e had written
seven years previously, after visiting the remains of
this dilapidated neighbourhood : — " Stretching from
St. George's Church, in the Borough, into the high
road which leads to the cast-iron bridge of South-
wark, are no end of narrow courts, winding alleys,
and ruined houses, which a bold-hearted man would
hesitate to thread after dusk. Here stand numbers
of houses which are unroofed and uninhabited.
Years ago they were doomed to be pulled down,
and it was resolved that a wide open street should
be built upon the space they now occupy. Years
may still roll on before they are removed. There
is no place like this in the suburbs of London, no
spot that looks so murderous, so melancholy, and
so miserable. Many of these houses, besides being
old, are very large and lofty. Many of these courts
stand just as they did when Cromwell sent out his
spies to hunt up and slay the Cavaliers, just as
they again were hunted in return, after the Restora-
tion, by the Royalists, who threaded their intricacies,
with sword and pistol in hand, in search of the
fallen Roundheads. There is a smell of past ages
about these ancient courts, like that which arises
from decay — a murky closeness — as if the old winds
which blew through them in the time of the Civil
Wars had become stagnant, and all old things had
fallen and died just as they were blown together,
and left to perish. So it is now. The timber of
these old houses looks bleached and dead ; and
the very brickwork seems never to have been new.
In them you find wide, hollow-sounding, decayed
staircases, that lead into great ruinous rooms, whose
echoes are only awakened by the shrieking and
nmning of large black-eyed rats, which eat through
the solid floors, through the wainscot, and live and
die without being startled by a human voire. From
the Southwark Bridge Road you may see the roofs

South warkj

THE "MOON-RAKERS."

63

of many of these great desolate houses ; they are
broken and open ; and the massy oaken rafters are
exposed to the summer sun and the snow of winter.
Some of the lower floors are still inhabited ; and at
the ends of these courts you will see standing, on
a fine day, such characters as you will meet with
nowhere besides in the neighbourhood of I,ondon.
Their very dress is peculiar ; and they frequent the
dark and hidden public-houses which abound in
these close alleys — placed where the gas is burning
all day long. Excepting the courts behind Long
Lane, in Smithfield, we know no spot about London
like this, which yet fronts St. George's Church, in
the Borough."

"The Mint," says Charles Knight, in his " Lon-
don," " was the scene of ' the life, character, and
behaviour ' of Jack Sheppard ; and within the
same precincts, at the ' Duke's Head,' still stand-
ing in Redcross Street, his companion in villainy,
Jonathan Wild, kept his horses. The Mint and
its vicinity has been an asylum for debtors, coiners,
and vagabonds of every kind, ever since the middle
of the sixteenth century. It is districts like these
which will always furnish the population of the
prisons, in spite of the best attempts to reform and
improve offenders by a wise, beneficent, and en-
lightened system of discipUne, until moral efforts
of a similar nature be directed to the fountain-
head of corruption. There are districts in London
whose vicious population, if changed to-day for
one of a higher and more moral class, would
inevitably be deteriorated by the physical agencies
by which they would be surrounded, and the
following generation might rival the inhabitants of
Kent Street or the Mint."

The Mint is terribly memorable in modern
annals ; for amid the squalor of its narrow streets
appeared, in 1832, tTie first case of Asiatic cholera
in the metropolis. Again, Thomas Miller, in his
work above quoted, refers to this miserable locality
when he says, " The ' Land of Death,' in which
we dwelt, was Newington, hemmed in by Lambeth,
Southwark, Walworth, Bermondsey, and other
gloomy parishes, through which the pestilence*
stalked like a destroying angel in the deep shadows
of the night and the open noon of day."

In the autobiographical reminiscences of his
childhood, which are embodied in his "Life,"
by Mr. John Forster, Charles Dickens describes
the quaint old streets of "low-browed" shops
which lay between Rowland Hill's chapel in the
Blackfriars Road, and his humble lodgings in Lant
Street, mentioned above, along which he had to

* The cholera, during the visitation of 1849.

pass night by night, in returning from his drudgery
at Hungerford Stairs. He tells us of the boot-lace
and hat and cap shops which he patronised, and
of another shop conspicuous for its sign of " a
golden dog licking a golden pot," over the door,
and which may still be seen at the corner of Char-
lotte Street, Blackfriars Road. He tells us also
how on Saturday nights he would be seduced into
the inside of show-vans containing the " Fat Pig,"
the " Wild Indian," arid the " Little Dwarf Lady,"
in this immediate neighbourhood.

In 1877 the late Metropolitan Board of Works
took steps with the view of levelling with
the ground a large part of the disreputable neigh-
bourhood now under notice, and comprising Mint
Street^ King Street, and Ehzabeth Place. A
great improvement has since been effected. In
Southwark Bridge Road are now the headquarters .
of the Metropolitan Fire Brigade, moved hither
from Watling Street. Here also is the Evelina
Hospital for Sick Children, founded in 1869, by
Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild, in memory of his
deceased wife. This hospital affords relief in.
the course of a year to nearly 6,000 poor children.

Great Suffolk Street, nearer " Stones'' End," is
named from Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk,
who, as stated above, lived here, in Suffolk House.
This street was formerly known by the name of
" Dirty Lane," an appellation which it very well
deserved. The " Moon-rakers " is the sign of a
public-house in this street, where it has stood for
upwards of half a century. " The original of this,"
says Mr. Larwood, in his " History of Sign-boards,"
"may have been one of the stories of the 'Wise Men
of Gotham.' A party of them going out one bright
night, saw the reflection of the moon in the water ;
and, after due deliberation, decided that it was a
green cheese, and so raked for it. Another version
is, that some Gothamites, passing in the night over
a bridge, saw from the parapet the moon's reflec-
tion in the river below, and took it for a green
cheese. They held a consultation as to the best
means of securing it, when it was resolved that
one should hold fast to the parapet whilst the
others hung from him hand-in-hand, so as to form
a chain to the water below, the last man to seize
the prize. When they were all in this position,
the uppermost, feeling the load heavy, and his
hold giving away, called out, ' Hallo ! you below,
hold tight while I take off my hand to spit on it ! '
The wise men below replied, ' All right ! ' upon
which he let go his hold, and they all dropped into
the water, and were drowned."

In this street lived the last barber who let blood
and drew teeth in London, the last of the barber-

64

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwarlc.

surgeons ; he died there about 1821, as Mr. Cun-
ningham was told by an old and intelligent hair-
dresser ill the Strand ; " To which," adds Mr. John
Timbs, in his "Autobiography," "I may add my
remembrance of his shop-window, with its heap of
drawn teeth, and the barber's pole at the door.
His name was Middleditch, and, reiwvare dolorem,
I have a vivid recollection of his dentistry."

At the corner of Great Suffolk Street and South-
warlc Bridge Road stands Winchester Hall. This
is neither more nor less than a concert-room of
the ordinary music-hall type, and is attached to a
public-liouse which originally bore the sign of " The
Grapes." Close by this spot, in former times, were
some well-known pleasure-grounds. They bore the
name of Finch's Grotto Gardens, and were situated
on the west side of Southwark Bridge Road. They
were first opened as a place of public resort about
the first year of the reign of George HL Here
Suett and Nan Cuttley acted and sang, if we may
trust the statement of John Timbs, who adds that
the old Grotto House was burnt down in 1796, but
soon afterwards rebuilt, a stone being inserted in
its wall with the following inscription :—
" Here herbs did grow
And flowers sweet ;
But now 'tis called
St. George's Street."

"Within my remembrance," writes Mr. John
Reynolds in his agreeable work, " Records of My
Life," " there was a place called Finch's Grotto
Gardens, a sort of minor Vauxhall, situated near
the King's Bench Prison. There was a grotto in
the middle of the garden, and an orchestra and
rotunda. The price of admission was sixpence,
and the place was much frequented by the humbler
classes." He goes on to say, as a proof of the
estimate in which the place was held, that " Tommy
Lowe," after having once been proprietor of Mary-
lebone Gardens, and having kept his carriage, "was
absolutely reduced to the necessity of accepting an
engagement at these Grotto Gardens."

Finch's Grotto Gardens doubtless were among
those suburban tea-gardens which were at one time
pretty plentiful in the outskirts of London. The
Prussian writer, D'Archenholz, in his account of
England, published towards the close of the last
century, is represented by Chambers as observing
that " The P2nglish take a great delight in the public
gardens near the metropolis, wliere they assenil)le
and take tea together in the open air. The number
of these in the ncighbourliood of the capital is
amazing, and the order, regularity, neatness, and
even elegance of tliem are truly admirable. They
are, however," he adds, " very rarely frecjuented by

people of fashion ; but the middle and lower ranks
go there often, and seem much delighted with the
music of an organ which is usually played in an
adjoining building."

A large building, occupying three sides of a
quadrangle, adjoining Finch's Grotto Gardens, was
at one time the workhouse of St. Saviour's parish.
It was built at an expense of about ^5,000, and
was opened in 1777. Under the Poor Law Act,
the parish of St. Saviour's now forms a union with
that of Christchurch ; St. Saviour's is the larger
parish of the two.

At the south-west corner of Blackman Street,
and at the entrance to the Borough Road, stood a
large building, surrounded by a high brick wall,
formerly known as the King's (or Queen's) Bench
Prison. It was pulled down in 1S80. The original
King's Bench Prison was on the east side of the
High Street, near the Marshalsea, and was cer-
tainly as old as the time of Richard II. Thither
Prince Hal (afterwards Henry V.) was sent by
Judge Gascoigne for endeavouring to rescue a con-
victed prisoner, one of his personal attendants —
that is, if we may believe the genial old gossiper,
Stow — but some historians have repudiated the
story altogether. It is, however, mentioned by
Hall, Grafton, and Sir Thomas Elyot in his book
called " Tlie Governour."

In a play called Henry V., written in the time of
Elizabeth, before 1592, in the scene in which the
historical account of the violence of the prince
against the chief justice is introduced, Richard
Tarlton, a famous comedian and mimic, acts both
judge and clown. One Knell, another droll come-
dian of the time, acted the prince, and gave the
chief justice such a blow as felled him to the
ground, to the great diversion of the audience.
Tarlton, the judge, goes off the stage, and returns
as Tarlton, the clown : he demands the cause of
the laughter. "Oh," says one, "hadst thou been
here to have seen what a terrible blow the prince
gave the judge." "What! strike a judge!" says
the clown : " terrible indeed must it be to the
judge, wlien the very report of it makes my cheek
burn."

Readers of the "Uncommercial Traveller" of
Charles Dickens will not forget the glimpse that
we catch from him of the interior of the old King's
Bench Prison, and of its inmates suffering from
and dying of the " dry-rot." The prist)n was re-
moved to this neighbourhood towards the close
of the last century. Wilkes was confuied here in
1768, and the mob endeavoured to rescue him.
A riot ensued, the milit.iry were called out, and
fired on the people in St. George's Fields, which

Southwark.]

THE KING'S BENCH PRISON.

6S

at that time extended as far as this spot. A
spectator, William Allen, was killed, and the jury
returned a verdict of " wilful murder " against the
soldier who fired the shot. The soldier was a
Scotchman, a countryman of "Jack Boot," and in
those days that was enough to condemn him. The
tomb of Allen may be seen in the old church at
Newington Butts. The King's Bench Prison was
burnt down by Lord George Gordon's rioters in
1780. It was, however, speedily rebuilt, and is
thus described by Mr. Allen, in his " History of
Surrey," 1829: — "The prison occupies an exten-
sive area of ground ; it consists of one large pile
of building, about 120 yards long. The south, or
principal front, has a pediment, under which is a
chapel. There are four pumps of spring and river
water. Here are 224 rooms, or apartments, eight
of which are called state-rooms, which are much
larger than the others. Within the walls are a
coffee-house and two public-houses; and the shops
and stalls for meat, vegetables, and necessaries of
almost every description, give the place the appear-
ance of a public market ; while the numbers of
people walking about, or engaged in various
amusements, are httle calculated to impress the
stranger with an idea of distress, or even of con-
finement. The walls surrounding the prison are
about thirty feet high, and are surmounted by
chevaux-de-frise ; but the liberties, or 'rules,' as
they are called, comprehend all St. George's Fields,
one side of Blackman Street, and part of the
Borough High Street, forming an area of about
three miles in circumference. These rules are
usually purchasable after the following rate, by the
prisoners : five guineas for small debts ; eight
guineas for the first hundred pounds of debt, and
about half that sum for every subsequent hundred
pounds. Day-rules, of which three may be ob-
tained in every term, may also be purchased for
4s. 2d. for the first day, and 3s. lod. for the others.
Every description of purchasers must give good
security to the governor, or, as he is called,
marshal. Those who buy the first-mentioned may
take up their residence anywhere within the pre-
cincts described ; but the day-rules only authorised
the prisoner to go out on those days for which they
are bought. These privileges," adds the writer,
"render the King's Bench the most desirable (if
such a word may be thus applied) place of incar-
ceration for debtors in England ; hence persons
so situated frequently remove themselves to it by
habeas corpus from the most distant prisons in the
kingdom." A strict attention to the "rules," it
may be added, was very seldom enforced — a fact
so notorious, that when Lord Ellenborough, as

chief justice of the King's Bench, was once applied
to for an extension of the "rules," his lordship
gravely replied that he really could perceive no
grounds for the application, since to his certain
knowledge the rules already extended to the East
Indies ! In cases of this kind, however, when
discovery took place, the marshal became answer-
able for the escape of the debtor. This prison
was properly a place of confinement for all cases
that could be tried in the Court of King's Bench.

"The discipline of the prison," writes Mr.
Richardson, in his " Recollections of the Last Half-
Century," " was tyrannical, yet lax, capricious and
undefined. The regulations were either enforced
with violence and suddenness, or suffered to
become a dead letter. Nobody cared much about
them ; and at one time or other they were broken
by every prisoner within the walls. Occasionally
an example was made of a more than usually
refractory inmate ; but the example was despised
as a warning, and operated as an incentive to
infraction. The law by which the prisoners were
kept in some sort of moral subordination emanated
from themselves, and from the necessity which
is recognised in all connnunities of combinations
of the weak to resist the oppressions of the strong,
a very mild administration of justice was acknow-
ledged and enforced. The exigencies of the
system demanded dispatch and vigour. A sort of
' lynch-law ' superseded the orders of the marshal.
It was the duty of that functionary to reside in
a house in the court-yard, within the outward
boundary of the prison. It was meant by the
legislature that he should be at hand to administer
justice, to attend to applications for redress, to
enforce obedience by his presence, prevent dis-
turbance among the unruly host of his subjects,
and to carry into effect the orders wliich, as a
servant of the Court of King's Bench, he was
bound to see respected. It is notorious that ]\Ir.
Jones, for many years the marshal of the prison, did
not reside. He was only in attendance on certain
days at his office, and held a sort of court of inquiry
into the state of his trust, the turnkeys and the
deputy-marshal acting as amici curice, and instruct-
ing him in his duties. He made, at stated times,
inspections of the prison ; and in his periodical
progress was attended by his subordinates in great
state. He was a fat, jolly man, rather slow in his
movements, not very capable of detecting abuses
by his own observation, and not much assisted
in his explorations by others. It was a mere farce
to see him waddle round the prison. His visits
produced no beneficial effect : the place, somewhat
more orderly during the time of his stay, at the

66

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

moment of his departure relapsed into its normal
state of irregularity and disorder. In the halcyon
days of his authority there was no such institution
as the Court for the Relief of Insolvent Debtors.
The legislature from time to time cleared out the
over-gorged prisons by passing Acts to discharge

ranks, callings, professions and mysteries — nobles
and ignobles, parsons, lawyers, farmers, tradesmen,
shopmen, colonels, captains, gamblers, horse-
dealers, publicans, butchers, &c. The wives of
many of these shared the fortunes and misfortunes
of their husbands ; and scores of widows and

THE MARSHALSKA PRISON,

unfortunate insolvents, and what was called the
' Lords' Act ' helped to prevent the enormous
conflux of such people. But this inefficient kind
of legislation was not what was wanted ; it acted
as a temporary alleviation of the miseries and
abominations of the system, but it failed to abate
the nuisance, which may be said to have flourished
with renewed vigour from the prunings which
removed its effects. The consequence was that
the prison was crowded with persons of all classes,

THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.

spinsters were amongst the majority who could not
pass the gates. It may be calculated that the
numerical strengtli of this strange colony amounted
to an average of ei^ht hundred or a thousand
individuals."

The state of this gaol is thus described by
Smollett about the time of its establishment in the
Borough Road ; it was much in the same state
down till late in the jiresent century : — " The
King's Bench Prison . . . appears like a neat little

THE MARSHALSEA IN 1790.
X. The Racquet Court of the Marshalsea. 2. Interior of the Palace Court of the Manhalsca.

68

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southvraric

regular town, consisting of one street, surrounded
by a very high wall, including an open piece of
ground, which may be termed a garden, where the
prisoners take the air, and amuse themselves with a
variety of diversions. Except the entrance, where
the turnkeys keep watch and ward, there is nothing
in the place that looks like a gaol, or bears the least
colour of restraint. The street is crowded with
passengers ; tradesmen of all kinds here exercise
their different professions; hawkers of all sorts
are admitted to call and vend their wares, as in
any open street in London. There are butchers'
stands, chandlers' shops, a surgery, a tap-house,
well frequented, and a public kitchen, in which
provisions are dressed for all the prisoners gratis,
at the expense of the publican. Here the voice of
misery never complains, and, indeed, little else
is to be heard but the sound of mirth and jollity.
At the further end of the street, on the right hand,
is a little paved court leading to a separate building,
consisting of twelve large apartments, called state-
rooms, well furnished, and fitted up for the recep-
tion of the better sort of Crown prisoners ; and
on the other side of the street, facing a separate
direction of ground, called the common side, is
a range of rooms occupied by prisoners of the
lowest order, who share the profits of a begging-
box, and are maintained by this practice and some
established funds of charity. We ought also to
observe that the gaol is provided with a neat
chapel, in which a clergyman, in consideration of
a certain salary, performs divine service every
Sunday."

John Howard, the philanthropist, found in the
King's Bench Prison a subject for deserved com-
plaint. He describes the Gatehouse at West-
minster as empty, but this as full to overflowing.
Indeed, it was so crowded in the summer of 1776,
that a prisoner paid five shillings for a separate
bed, and many who had no crown-pieces to spare
for such a luxury lay all night in the chapel. The
debtors, with their families, amounted to a thou-
sand, two-thirds of whom were lodged within the
prison walls, the rest " living within the rules."

Hero, at tlie close of the last century, the
notorious Oeorgc Hanger, Lord Colcraine, was
an inmate for nearly a twelvemonth. We have
already had occasion to speak of this eccentric and
unfortunate nobleman.* At one time he tried to
"make both ends meet" by recruiting for the ]'',ast
India Company, and at another by starting as a
coal merchant. With respect to the former occu-
pation, he tells us tlial he spent jCsoo — " costs

S«e Vol. V. , p. 294.

out of pocket," as the lawyers say — in establishing
and organising agencies for recruits in all the large
towns of England, but that an end was put to this
work by various disputes among the directors in
Leadenhall Street as to the best place for recruit-
ing barracks. The decision, wherever it placed the
depot, threw him out of employ, robbed him of
his ;^5oo and six years' labour, and lost him an
income of ^600 a year. The result was that he was
sent to the King's Bench, and had to start afresh
with a capital of ;!£'4o in hand ! No wonder that
next year he thought of trade in earnest as much
better than such precarious work. Not long before
this. Major Hanger — as he was more frequently
called — had become one of the jovial associates
of the then Prince of Wales, who made him one of
his equerries, with a salary of ^^300 a year, an
appointment which, together with the employment
which he undertook of raising recruits for the East
India Company, afforded him the means of living
for a time like a gentleman. His good fortune
did not, however, last long, and the major was
soon on the high road to the King's Bench, which
he entered in June, 1798. He spent about ten
months in " those blessed regions of rural retire-
ment," as he jokingly styles his prison, possibly
remembering the lines of Lovelace —

" Stone walls do not a prison make,
Nor iron bars a cage ;
Minds innocent and peaceful take
That for a hermitage ; "

and he declares that he " lived there as a gentleman
on three shillings a day." Released from prison,
he now applied for employment on active service,
but in vain ; so he formed the resolution of taking
to trade, and set up at one time as a coal mer-
chant, and at another as dealer in a powder for
the special purpose of setting razors. Specimens
of this powder he carried about in his pocket to
show to " persons of quality," whom he canvassed
for their patronage ! How far he flourished in the
coal business we do not hear ; but, as he mentions
a kind friend who gave him a salary sufficient to
keep the wolf from the door, in all probability
he did not make one of those gigantic fortunes
which the coal owners and coal merchants have
niade in later days at the cost of the long-suffering
householder.

In this jirison were confined many of the objects
of Government prosecutions during the ministries
of Pitt, Addington, Perceval, and Lord Liverpool.

John Timbs tells us, in his " Autoliiography,"
that amongst tliose who were living here in lodg-
ings, "within the rules of the King's Bench," in
1822, was the indefatigable and eccentric William

Southwark.l

SIR JAMES SOUTH.

69

Coombe, better known as " Dr. Syntax," the author
of " A Tour in Search of the Picturesque." He
wrote this to fit in with some drawings by Rowland-
son ; and the two combined, pubHshed by Acker-
man, in the Strand, became one of the luckiest of
literary ventures. Besides the above work, Coombe
was also the author of " The Letters of a Noble-
man to his Son " (generally ascribed to Lord Lyttel-
ton), the "German Gil Bias," &c. He had travelled,
when young, as a man of fortune, on the Continent,
and had made " the grand tour," and had been a
companion of Lawrence Sterne. In middle life,
however, he ran through his fortune, and took to
literature as a profession, and among other con-
nections he had formed one with Mr. Walter, of
the Times. Mr. Crabb Robinson tells us in his
" Diary " that " at this time, and indeed till his
death, he was an inhabitant of the King's Bench
Prison," and that " when he came to Printing
House Square it was only by virtue of a day-rule.
I believe," adds Mr. Robinson, " that Mr. Walter
offered to release him from prison by paying his
debts ; but this he would not permit, as he did not
acknowledge the justice of the claim for which he
suffered imprisonment. He preferred to live upon
an allowance from Mr. Walter, and was, he said,
perfectly happy." Coombe is said to have been
the author of nearly seventy various publications,
none, however, published with his own name. He
ran through more than one fortune, and died at an
advanced age.

Poor Haydon,* about 1828, was an inmate of
this prison, where he painted a "Mock Election"
that was held within its walls. The picture was
purchased by George IV. for £,'^00. Another
painter of note who was consigned to the King's
Bench was George Morland. In 1799 he was
arrested, and being allowed to live " within the
rules," instead of within the gaol itself, he took a
house in the neighbourhood, in St. George's Fields,
which soon became the haunt of all the profligates
of the prison. " In this cavern of indolence, dissi-
pation, and misery," writes the author of " Great
Painters and their Works," " Morland reigned and
revelled. But the inevitable end was approaching.
He was struck with palsy ; and when the Insolvent
Act of 1802 brought release, it was to the poor
miserable wreck — physical, intellectual, and moral
— of what had once been George Morland."

In the early part of the present century, the
emoluments of the " marshal " of the King's Bench
amounted to about ;!£^3,69o a year; of which ^870
arose from the sale of beer, and ^2,820 from the

• See Vol. v., p. 209.

" rules." About the year 1840 an Act was passed
for the better regulation of this prison, by which
the practice of granting " day-rules " was abolished ;
and the prison thenceforth, till its abolition as a
debtor's prison about the year 1861, was governed
according to regulations provided by one of the
secretaries of State. After remaining unoccupied
for a short period, it was used as a military prison,
and about 1870 it passed into the hands of the
Convict Department, being pulled down, as we
have said, in :8So.

Near the King's Bench Prison was the manu-
factory and bleaching-ground of Mr. Alsager, who
gave up his prosperous business in order to write
the " City Articles " for the 'Times, in which he
ultimately came to own a share.

Again making our way towards London Bridge,
we pass by " Stones' End " into Blackman Street,
a thoroughfare mentioned in " The Merry Man's
Resolution" published in the "Roxburgh Ballads:"

" Farewel to the Bankside,

Farewel to Blackman's Street,
Where with my bouncing lasses

I oftentimes did meet ;
Farewel to Kent Street garrison,

Farewel to Horsly-down,
And all the smirking wenches
That dwell in RedriiT town :
And come, love,
Stay, love,
Go along with me ;
For all the world I'll forsake for thee."

In a large house, on the east side of this street,
resided for many years Mr. (afterwards Sir James)
South, the son of a chemist and druggist. While
practising medicine. South gave special attention
to astronomy. Between 1821 and 1823, from the
roof of his house, which was nearly opposite Lant
Street, he, in conjunction with Mr. (afterwards Sir)
J. F. Herschel, made some valuable observations
on 380 double and triple stars, both astronomers
being armed with what in that day were considered
powerful telescopes of five inches aperture, con-
structed by Tulley. A few years later South re-
moved to Campden Hill, Kensington, where he
fitted up a telescope of larger dimensions. Of the
sale of his instruments at the last-named place we
have given an account in a former chapter.* He
was one of the founders of the Royal Astronomical
Society, and was knighted by William IV. in -1830.
He died in 1867.

George IV., in his last hours, expressed a desire
that Sir James should receive from the Civil List
a pension of ^^300 per annum, which was con-

* See Vol. v., p. 131.

70

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark,

ferred by King William IV. Many years ago,
when it was thought desirable by some persons to
have a second national observatory, Sir James
South offered to build it at his owti expense, and
endow it with his own magnificent instruments ; but
the ofter was declined by the Government. A
scientific account of Sir James South's astronomical
observations in Blackman Street, and of their
results, accompanied by an elaborate description
of the five-feet and seven-feet telescopes with which
they were made, will be found in the " Philosophical
Transactions " for 1825.

Another distinguished native of the same part of
Southwark was the gifted poetess, Eliza Cook, who
was born here in December, 1818, and who from
her early womanhood stirred the hearts of the
middle classes of Englishmen and Englishwomen
by her spirited and hearty songs as few other poets
have done. Joseph Lancaster, the educationist,
was born in Kent Street in 1778.

Until the formation of the Dover Road early
in the present century, Kent Street, commencing
eastward of St. George's Church, at the north end
of Blackman Street, was part of the great way
from Dover and the Continent to the metropolis.
This narrow thoroughfare, originally called Kentish
Street, was a wretched and profligate place. As
far back as 1633 it was described as "very long
and ill-built, chiefly inhabited by broom-men and
mumpers," and to the last it was noted for its
turners' and brush-makers' shops, and broom and
heath yards ; yet some of these men rose to wealth
and position. John Evelyn tells us of one Burton,
a broom-man, who sold kitchen-stuff in Kent
Street, " whom God so blessed that he became a
vejry rich and a very honest man, and in the end
Sheriff of Surrey." During the plague in 1665,
Evelyn, under date of 7th September, writes :
"Came home, there perishing neere 10,000 poor
creatures weekly ; however, I went all along the
City and suburbs from Kent Street to St. James's,
a dismal passage, and dangerous to see so many
coffins expos'd in the streetes, now thin of people;
the shoi)s shut up, and all in mournful silence, as
not knowing whose turn might be next. I went to
the Duke of Albemarle for a pest-ship, to wait on
our infected men, who were not a few."

Kent — now Tabard — Street was the route taken
by Chaucer's pilgrims, of whom we shall have
more to say when dealing with the " Tabard "
Inn ; by the Black Prince, when he rode a modest
conqueror with the I'rench king by his side ; and
by which Jack Cade's rabble rout poured into the
metropolis, quite as intent, we may fairly suppose,
upon plunder as upon political reform. In this

street, as early as the fourteenth century, stood the
Loke, a hospital for lepers, afterwards known as
the Lock, a name still retained by the well-known
hospital in the Harrow Road, Paddington.* An
open stream, or rather ditch, dividing the parishes
of St. George and St. Mary, Newington, was also
called the Lock ; but whether it derived its name
from the hospital, or the hospital from the stream,
is uncertain. It rose in Newington (the open
ground on its banks being called Lock's Fields,
a name which is still retained), was crossed from
early times by a bridge at the end of Kent Street,
and flowed through Bermondsey into the river.

Tabard Street has borne its evil reputation to the
present day ; and it is immortalised in Charles
Dickens's " Uncommercial Traveller " as " the
worst kept part of London — in a police sense, of
course — excepting the HajTnarket." Smollett says,
" It would be for the honour of the kingdom to
improve the avenue to London by way of Kent
Street, which is a most disgraceful entrance to
such an opulent city. A foreigner, in passing this
beggarly and ruinous suburb, conceives such an
idea of misery and meanness as all the wealth
and magnificence of London and Westminster are
afterwards unable to destroy. A friend of mine
who brought a Parisian from Dover in his own
post-chaise, contrived to enter Southwark when it
was dark, that his friend might not perceive the
nakedness of this quarter." Since the formation of
the Dover Road, this street has been no longer
the great highway to Kent, a fearful necessity to
timid travellers ; but it still retains much of its old
character, as the chosen resort of broom and brush
makers. Towards the close of the last century
this street, although the only thoroughfare from the
City to the Old Kent Road, presented a scene of
squalor and destitution unequalled even in St.
Giles's. Gipsies, thieves, and such-like characters,
were to be met with in almost every house ; and
men, women, children, asses, pigs, and dogs were
often found living together in the same room.
Filled with a noble desire to do something to
instruct and improve the condition of the rising
generation in this crowded neighbourhood, Thomas
Cranfield, a hard-working tailor, then residing in
Hoxton, and formerly a corporal at the siege of
Gibraltar in 1782, resolved, if possible, to establish
a Sunday-school in Kent Street. For this pur-
jjose, in 1798, he hired a room, and at once under-
took, with no other help than that given by his
wife, the education of the "wild Arabs" who came
to receive instruction in this novel manner. The

• SccVoL V.,p.a>i.

Southwaric.l

ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH.

?i

reputation borne by the neighbourhood for vice
and profligacy was in itself quite sufficient to lieter
many persons with any benevolent intentions from
venturing into the street. Undaunted by the mag-
nitude of the undertaking, for some months this
philanthropic individual and his wife, travelling
every Sunday all the way from Hoxton with three
of their children, occupied themselves with the
task they had set themselves, and with so much
success, that in a short time the fruits of their self-
denying exertions became conspicuously apparent
to others, and at last other voluntary teachers sum-
moned up courage to undertake the same work.
Finding his labours in Kent Street rewarded with
success, and being now reinforced by additional
volunteers, Cranfield determined to open a similar
school in the Mint, close by, a locality even worse
than Kent Street. This school also succeeded,
and soon after their establishment these schools
were incorporated with the Sunday-school carried
on in Surrey Chapel, under the title of the "South-
wark Sunday-school Societ)'," the Rev. Rowland
Hill becommg the first president. Some of these
schools still exist, and many of the children born in
Southwark within the last eighty years owed their
education and their position in after life to the
voluntary instruction given in these Sunday-schools.
A nobleman on one occasion being present at
one of these Sunday-school anniversaries at Surrey
Chapel, and being struck not only with the cleanly
appearance of the children, but with the respecta-
bility of the teachers, asked Rowland Hill what
salary the latter received for their arduous duties.
Mr. Hill gave the following reply : " It is very little
of this world's goods that they get, unless it is now
and then a flea, or another insect not quite so
nimble in its movements."

St. George's Church, at the corner of the High
Street, Borough, and of Blackman Street, is dedi-
cated to St. George the Martyr, the patron saint of
England. The original church, which stood here,
belonged to the Priory of Bermondsey ; it was a
very ancient edifice, and was dedicated to St.
George of Cappadocia. It is described in the
"New View of London," published in 1708, as "a
handsome building, the pillars, arches, and windows
being of Gothic design, and having a handsome
window about the middle of the north side of the
church, whereon were painted the arms of the
twenty-one companies of London who contributed
to the repair of this church in 1629, with the names
of the donors ; the sums respectively given by
them amounting in all to ;^i56 i6s. 8d. This
edifice was sixty-nine feet long to the altar-rails,
sixty feet wide, and thirty-five feet higk The

tower, in which were eight bells, was ninety-eight
feet high."

We hear of the old church as having been given
in 1 1 22, by Thomas Arderne, on whose ancestor
the parish had been bestowed by the Conqueror, to
the abbot and monks of Bermondsey. It is stated
in the work above mentioned that among the dis-
tinguished persons who lie buried in St. George's
Church, are Bishop Bonner,* who is said to have
died in 1557, in the Marshalsea Prison (a place,
as Dr. Fuller observes, the safest to secure him
from the people's fury) ; and the famous Mr.
Edward Cocker, a person so well skilled in all
parts of arithmetic as to have given rise to the
classic phrase, " according to Cocker." The tra-
dition in Queen Anne's time was that Bonner's
grave was under the east window of the church,
and that Cocker, " the most eminent composer and
engraver of letters, knots, and flourishes of his
time," lay " in the passage at the west end, within
the church, near the school." Such, at all events,
was the statement of the then sexton ; and, as
he died about the year 1677, in all probability the
tradition may be accepted. Cocker's fame was
chiefly made by his " Vulgar Arithmetic," published
after his death by his friend, John Hawkins, who
possibly wrote the following epigram upon him : —

" Ingenious Cockei! now to rest thoii'rt gone,
No art can show thee fully but thine own.
Thy vast arithmetic alone can show
The sums of thanks we for tliy labours owe."

Here also was inten-ed John Rushworth, the
author of "Historical Collections" relating to pro-
ceedings in Parliament from 1618 to 1640. Rush-
worth died in the King's Bench. In the grave-
yard of this church it was the custom to bury
prisoners who died in the King's Bench and the
Marshalsea.

In this church General George Monk, afterwards
Duke of Albemarle, was married in 1652, to Nan
Clarges,t the daughter of a farrier in the Strand,
and widow of another farrier named Radford or
Ratford, who had been his sempstress, and " used
to carry him linen." Mr. Henry Jessey, who sub-
sequently became a Baptist, and was immersed by
Hanserd Knollys, was, during the Commonwealth,
the minister of this church.

The old church having undergone many repairs,
and being ruinous, the parishioners applied to
Parliament, and obtained an Act to have another
church erected in its place ; in consequence of
which the present edifice was begun in 1734, and

' Others, however, hold that he lies buried at Copford, in Essex,
t See Vol. III., p. 122.

72

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

finished in about two years. The architect was
a Mr. John Price, and the expense of the building
was defrayed by a grant of ;^6,ooo out of the
funds appropriated for building fifty new churches
in the metropolis and its vicinity. It was repaired
in 1808, at a cost of ^g.ooo. The plan of the
building is a parallelogram, with a square tower at
the west end, surmounted by a second storey of an
octagon form, and crowned by an octangular spire,

that the large bell of this church is tolled nightly,
and is probably a reHc of the curfew custom.

About midway between St. George's Church and
London Bridge, stood in very remote times the
Marshalsea, or prison of the Court of the Knight
Marshal, in which all disputes arising between
servants of the royal household, and offences com-
mitted within the King's Court, were adjudicated
upon. Its jurisdiction extended for twelve miles

TIIK OI.I) "TAllARD' INN, IN THE SICVENTICE.NTH CENTURY.

finished with a ball and vane. The church tlirough-
cut is very plain. It is built of dark red brick,
with stone dressings, in a heavy Dutch style, and
has altogether a tasteless aspect. In looking at
such a building as this, well may we exclaim in
the words of a divine of the nineteenth century,
'■ Ichabod ! the glory of the Church has departed.
I never observe the new churches on the Surrey
side of the river without imagining that their long
bodies and short steeples look, from a distance,
like the rudders of so many sailing-barges. Where
is the grand oriel ? where is the old square tower ?
\\'hat have we in tlieir stead ? A common granary
casement and a shapeless spire." Pennant de-
scribes the steeple of St. George's Church as " most
awkwardly standing upon stilts." It may be added

round Whitehall, the City of l^ondon excepted. It
was once of high dignity, and coeval with the
Courts of Common Law. This Marshal's, or
Palace Court, as it was afterwards called, was
removed from Southwark to Scotland Yard in
1801 ; it was abolished by Act of Parliament in
1849, and ceased to exist from the end of that
year. For very many years no legal business was
transacted in the Marshalsea Court, thougli it con-
tinued to be opened and closed willi the same
legal formalities as the Palace Court, tlie judges
and other officers being the same in both.

In the " New View of London " we read : "The
Marshal's Court, situate or kept in the Marslialsea
Prison on the eastern side of the Burrough (sic) of
Southwark, was first intended for determining causes

Southwarlc)

BISHOP BONNER IN THE MARSHALSEA.

73

or differences among the king's menial servants,
held under the Knight Marshal, whose steward is
judge of this court, and whereunto also belong four
council (sic) and six attorneys." Here follow the
names of these ten privileged gentlemen, with a
note to the effect that " none except members of
Clifford's Inn may practise in this court." In 1774
we find the Marshalsea described as " the county
gaol for felons and the Admiralty gaol for pirates."

stated above) a prisoner in the Marshalsea, where
he had been ordered to be confined. He had
been previously imprisoned there during the reign
of Edward VI. He was buried, as we have aheady
seen, in St. George's Church, hard by.

" Another anecdote is told of Bishop Bonner,"
says Charles Knight, in his " London," " at the
period of his committal to the Marshalsea, which
is worth repeating here, as it shows his temper

\J7iin a ^Ktun Id d t siio) dy (ejiid ih chnwlition.)

We have no exact record of the first establish-
ment of the Marshalsea prison, but we find it
casually mentioned in an account of a mob riot in
1377. A sailor belonging to the fleet commanded
by the Duke of Lancaster, Lord High Admiral,
was killed by a man of gentle blood, who was
imprisoned in the Marshalsea ; but it being sup-
posed by the sailors that powerful friends were at
work to obtain his pardon, a number of sailors
broke into the prison, murdered the offender, and
then hanged his body on the gallows, returning
afterwards to their ships with trumpets sounding.
Four years afterwards, Wat Tylers followers seized
and murdered die marshal of the prison. Bishop
Bonner, the last Roman Catholic Bishop of London,
having been deposed by Queen Elizabeth, died (as
247

in a more favourable light than that which the
voice of the public ascribes to him. On his way
to the prison, one called out, ' The Lord confound
or else turn tliy lieart I ' Bonner coolly replied,
'The Lord send thee to keep thy breath to cool
thy porridge.' To another, who insulted him on
his deprivation from the episcopal rank, he could
even be witty. ' Good morrow. Bishop quondaml
was the remark. ' Farewell, knave semper,' was
the reply." Bonner died on the 5th of Septem-
ber, 1569, having been a prisoner here for about
ten years. In Queen Elizabeth's time, the Mar-
shalsea was the second in importance among the
prisons in London. PoUtical satirists, George
Wither among them, were confined there ; and,
in conjunction wth the other Southwark prisons,

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwirlc

it was the place of durance of Udal and other
Puritan martyrs. Among other notorious inmates
was George Barnwell, who killed his uncle at
Camberwell, if we may believe the mock heroic
lines on that hero of the shop and counter in the
" Rejected Addresses."

In 1685 Colonel Culpeper was consigned to the
Marshalsea as a prisoner. John Evelyn tells the
story of his seizure, in his " Diary," under date
July 9th of the above year: — "Just as I was
coming into the lodgings at Whitehall, a little
before dinner, my Lord of Devonshire standing
very neere his Majesty's bed-chamber doore in
the lobby, came Colonel Culpeper, and in a rude
manner looking my lord in the face, asked
whether this was a time and place for e.xcluders
to appeare. My lord at first tooke little notice
of what he said, knowing him to be a hot-headed
fellow, but he reiterated it, my lord asked Cul-
peper whether he meant him ; he said, yes, he
meant his lordship. My lord told him he was
no excluder ; the other affirming it againe, my
lord told him he lied, on which Culpeper struck
him a box on the eare, which my lord return'd,
and fell'd him. They were soone parted ; Cul-
peper was seiz'd, and his majesty order'd him to
be carried to the Greene Cloth officer, who sent
him to the Marshalsea as he deserved."

The Marshalsea escaped Lord George Gordon's
rioters, in June, 1780, when the King's Bench,
the Borough, and Clink prisons were demolished ;
but shortly afterwards it was removed nearer to
St. George's Church, where it remained until its
abolition in 1849. At that time it contained sixly
rooms and a chapel.

For a description of this prison as it was half a
century ago, the reader may as well be referred to
the " Little Dorritt " of Charles Dickens, who lays
within its precincts most of the scenes of the first
part, and several in the latter part of the second.
These scenes Avere drawn from life, as the elder
Dickens passed here a considerable part of his days
while his son was a lad ; and here the future " Boz,"
coming to visit his selfish and indolent father,
picked up much of his practical acquaintance with
the lower grades of society and London life, which
he afterwards turned to account. " The family,"
he writes, " lived more comfortably in ])rison than
they liad done for a long lime out of it. They
were waited on still by the maidof-all-work from
Bayham Street, the orphan girl from Chatham
workhouse, from whose sharp little worldly, yet
also kindly, ways I took my first impressions of
the Marchioness in 'The Old Curiosity Shoi).'"

Most readers of Dickens's works will remember

old Mr. "William Dorritt, the " father of the Mar-
shalsea," and Amy, the "Little Mother" — the
" child of the Marshalsea."

In 1856, whilst engaged in the purchase of Gad's
Hill, Charles Dickens paid a visit to the Marshal-
sea, then in the course of demolition, to see what
traces were left of the prison, of which he had
received such early and vivid impressions as a boy,
and which he had been able to rebuild almost
brick by brick in "Little Dorritt," by the aid of his
wonderfully retentive memory. He writes to his
friend, John Forster, "Went to the Borough yester-
day morning before going to Gad's Hill, to see if I
could find any ruins of the Marshalsea. Found a
great part of the original building, now ' Marshalsea
Place.' I found the rooms that had been in my
mind's eye in the stoiy. . . . There is a room
there, still standing, that I think of taking. It is
the room through which the ever-memorable signers
of Captain Porter's petition filed off in my boyhood.
Tlie spikes are gone, and the wall is lowered ; and
any body can go out now who likes to go, and
is not bed-ridden."

Some considerable portion Qf the Marshalsea is
still standing, in Angel Court, on the north side
of St. George's Church ; it is now used for business
purposes.

In 1663 was published a book entitled "The
Ancient Legal Course and Fundamental Constitu-
tion of the Palace-Court or Marshalsea ; with the
Charges of all Proceedings there, and its present
Establishment explained, whereby it will appear of
what great authority this Court hath been in all
Times." This is a very scarce little volume, known
to few, and unmentioned by the bibliographers. At
the time of publication the Court, whose authority
was held by Fleta to be next to the High Court of
Parliament, was kept every Friday in the Court
House on St. Margaret's Hill, and might be held
in any other fit place within twelve miles of White-
hall.

In the neighbourhood of the Marshalsea prison
there was formerly an inn with a sign-board called
the " Hand." If we may trust a statement in
Tom Brown's "Amusements for the Meridian of
London," this board, whether it represented the
hand of a man or of a woman, w-as always re-
garded as an evil sign.

Southwark, it is almost needless to remark,
embraces an important manufacturing and com-
mercial district. Along the water-side, from Ber-
mondsey to Lambeth, there is a long succession
of wharves and warehouses, which all seem to ply
a busy trade. .\ considerable hat manufacture
is carried on in and around St. Saviour's parish.

Southwarkj

THE BOROUGH IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY.

75

Bermondsey abounds with tanners and curriers.
Southwark is also the chief place of business for
persons connected with the hop trade ; and within
its limits are probably the largest vinegar-works,
and certainly one of the largest breweries in the
world. Apparently, some of the tradesmen of
" the Borough " were persons of substance in the
Middle .\ges. At all events, a writer in Notes arid
Queries, on the authority of Mr. W. D. Cooper, says
" that a certain Harry Baily, or Bailly, a ' hostelry
keeper' of Southwark, represented that borough
in Parliament in the reigns of Edward HI. and
Richard H." Mr. Timbs confirms his identity by
an extract which he quotes from the Subsidy Roll
or4 Richard II., A.D. 1380, in which Henry Bayliff,
" Ostyler," and Christian, his wife, are assessed at
two shillings. He adds, "We cannot read Chaucer's
description of the Host without acknowledging the
likelihood of his being a popular man among his
fellow-townsmen, and one likely to be selected for
his fitness to represent them in Parliament." As
we have shown in a previous chapter, too, coming
down to more recent times, the elder Mr. Thrale,
the founder of Barclay and Perkins's brewery, was
for some time a representative of Southwark in
the House of Commons, as also was Mr. Apsley
Pellatt, of the Falcon Glass Works.

The tradesmen of Southwark — even if some of
them have attained to opulence — are, however,
we fear, like those of most other places ; and there
are, or have been, " black sheep " among them,
for in the " History of Quack Doctors " we read
that in the reign of Edward VI. one Grig, a poul-
terer in Surrey, was set in the pillory at Croydon,
and again in the Borough, for "cheating people
out of their money, by pretending to cure them by
charms, or by only looking at the patient."

The principles of free trade would seem to have
been almost unknown in the reign of Edward I.,
if, as stated by Maitland in his " History of Lon-
don," it was ordained that " no person should go
out of the City into Southwark to buy cattle," and
the bakers of Southwark in like manner were
forbidden to trade in the City.

The Surrey side of the Thames, being generally
so low and fiat, and extremely monotonous,
was in past ages regarded more as a pleasure
resort than as a centre of commercial activity.
Added to this, its rents were low, on account of
the tolls upon the bridges, and hence a sufficient
number of acres to constitute a public garden were
easily obtainable, even by somewhat impecunious
speculators, and the very great success of Vauxhall
Gardens had somehow or other familiarised the
public mind with the idea that it was the "right

thing " to go across the water for pleasure, leaving
the cares of home on the north side of the river.

The sanitary arrangements of Southwark cer-
tainly were not good in the early part of the reign
of George III. Pigs and sheep were killed for the
London markets in many parts of the Borough.
" The kennels of Southwark," writes Dr. Johnson,
during his Scottish Tour, with reference to this cir-
cumstance, " run blood two days in every week."

We can form a tolerably accurate notion of the
extent and appearance of Southwark at the be-
ginning of the seventeenth century. Southward of
St. George's Church and the Mint spread St.
George's Fields, reaching nearly to the archiepis-
copal palace at Lambeth, and the village of
Newington. The Kent Road was a lane between
hedgerows ; and there were bishops' palaces and
parks, mansions, theatres, and pleasure-gardens
near the green banks of the river. There were
forts for the defence of the borough at the end of
Blackman Street, near the Lock Hospital, and in
St. George's Fields, where afterwards stood the
" Dog and Duck," at the eastern end of the present
Bethlehem Hospital. The old High Street of
Southwark had gabled houses and large quadran-
gular inns, dating from the early Norman times; and
between them and the Abbey of Bermondsey were
open spaces and streams flowing gently towards
the river. Pasture-lands, farms, and water-mills
were farther east towards Redriff (now Rotherhithe),
and Horselydown was indeed a grazing place for
horses. Now all that is changed; but it is pleasant
to think of the old days, even amid the constant
busde and crowding at the entrance of one of the
busiest of London railway stations.

The journal of a London alderman, at the close
of the last centur)', under date of Sunday, 25th
June, 1797, thus describes the Southwark of his
day : — " I dined in the Boro' with my friend Par-
kinson enfamille, and in the evening walked tluo'
some gardens near the Kentish Road, at the
expense of one halfpenny each. We went and
saw a variety of people who had heads on their
shoulders, and eyes and legs and arms like our-
selves, but in every other respect as different from
the race of mortals we meet at the West-end of the
town as a native of Bengal from a Laplander.
This observation may be applied with great trath
in a general way to the whole of the Borough and
all that therein is. Their meat is not so good,
their fish is not so good, their persons are not so
cleanly, their dress is not equal to what we meet
in the City or in Westminster; indeed, upon the
whole, they are one hundred years behindhand in
civilisation."

76

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

fSouthwark.

CHAPTER Vn.

SOUTHWARK (««/«:««/).— FAMOUS INNS OF OLDEN TIMES.

" Chaucer, the Druid-priest of poetrj',

First taught our muse to speak the mystic lore.
And woke the soul to heavenly minstrelsy,
Which Echo en the wind delightful bore."

Old Inns mentioned by Stow — The " Tabard "—The Abbot of Hide— The " Tabard " as the Rendezvous for Pilgrims — Henry Bailly, the Hosteller
of the "Tabard," and M.P. for Southu-ark — Description of the old "Tabard"' — Change of Name from the "Tabard" to the "Talliot" —
Demolition of the old Inn — Chaucer and the Canterbury Pilgrims — Characters mentioned by Chaucer in the "Canterbury 'lales" — Stow's
Definition of "Tabard" — The "George" — The "White Hart" — Jack Cades sojourn here — The " Boar's Head ' — The "White Lion"—
"Henry VIII." a Favourite Sign — The "Three Brushes "—The " Catherine Wheel "—The " Three Widows" — The " Old Pick my Toe " —
Tokens of Inn keepers.

It was probably on account of its pro.ximity to
one of our earliest theatres (the Globe), as well
as on account of its being on the great southern
thoroughfare, that the High Street of Southwark
came to abound to such an extent with inns and
hostelries. Li bygone days it is probable that
these inns were still more numerous, as all traffic
from the south and south-west of England must
have entered London by that route at a time when
old London Bridge was the only entrance into the
City for traffic and travellers from the south of the
Thames.

We have historic proof that the borough of
Southwark — and more especially the High Street-
has been for ages celebrated for its inns. Stow,
in his "Survey," published at the close of the
sixteenth century, says : — " From thence [the Mar-
shalsea] towards London Bridge, on the same side,
be many fair inns for receipt of travellers, by these
signs : the Spurre, Christopher, Bull, Queen's
Head, Tabard, George, Hart, King's Head," &c.
Of these inns mentioned by the old chronicler,
some few remain to this day ; whilst most of the
buildings surrounding the old-fashioned yards have
been converted into warehouses or booking-offices
for the goods department of different railway com-
panies, &c.

First and foremost of these ancient hostelries,
and one which retained most of its ancient features
down to a comparatively recent date, was the
"Tabard Inn," renowned by Chaucer as the ren-
dezvous of the Canterbury Pilgrims, five hundred
years ago. Its name, however, jiatl become
changed for that of the " Talbot." It stood on the
east side of the street, about midway between St.
George's Church and London Bridge, and nearly
opposite the site of the old Town Hall. The first
foundation of this inn would appear to be due
to the Abbots of Hyde, or Hide, near Winchester,
who, at a time when the Bisliops of Winchester
had a palace near St. Saviour's Church, fixed their
residence in this immediate neighbourhood. The
land on which the old " 'labarde " stood was pur-

chased by the Abbot of Hyde in the year 1307,
and he built on it not only a hostel for himself and
his brethren, but also an inn for the accommodation
of the numerous pilgrims resorting to the shrine of
" St. Thomas of Canterbury " from the south and
west of England, just at the point where the roads
from Sussex, Surrey, and Hampshire met that
which was known as the " Pilgrims' Way." There
can be no doubt that by the end of the fourteenth
century the " Tabard " was already one of the inns
most frequented by " Canterbury Pilgrims," or else
Chaucer would scarcely have introduced it to us in
that character.

The Abbey of Hide was founded by Alfred
the Great, and the monks were Saxon to the back-
bone. When the Conqueror landed at Pevensey,
the abbot and twelve stout monks buckled on
their armour, and with twenty armed men hurried
to join Harold. Not one returned from the fatal
field of Hastings. Abbot, monks, and men-at-arms
all lay dead upon the field ; and Norman William
never forgave their patriotic valour, but avenged it
by taking from the abbey twelve knights' fees and
a captain's portion — that is, twelve times the amount
of land necessary to support a man-at-arms and a
baron's fief. Chaucer must have known this history,
and his honest English heart must have glowed
with the remembrance as he sat in the old hall of
the town residence of the successors of the brave
Abbot of Hide. Here it was that the genial poet
and the nine-and-twenty pilgrims met, and agreed
to enliven their ])ilgrimage to the shrine of St.
Thomas it Becket, at Canterbury, by reciting talcs
to shorten the way. Macaulay says, " It was a
national as well as religious feeling that drew multi-
tudes to the shrine of i Becket, the first English-
man wiio, since the Conquest, had been terrible to
tiie foreign tyrants." The date of the Canterbury
Pilgrimage is generally supposed to have been the
year 1383 ; and Chaucer, after describing the
.season of spring, writes : —

" Bcfclle that in that scison, on a day,
In Southwerli, at the Tabard as I lay,

South wark.]

THE OLD "TABARD" INN.

77

Redy to wenden on my pilgrimage

To Canterbury, with devoule courage,

At night was come into that liostelrie

Well nine-and-twenty in a compagnie

Of sondry folk, by aventure yfalle

In felawship ; and pilgrimes were they alle,

That toward Canterbury wolden ride.

The chambres and the stables weren wyde,

And wel we weren esed atte beste.

And shortly, when the sonne was gone to reste,

So hadde I spoken with hem everich on

That I was of hir felawship anon.

And I made forword erly for to rise,

And take oure way iher as I you devise."

The "Tabard" is again mentioned in the fol-
lowing lines : —

"In Southwerk at this gentil hostelrie,
That highte the Tabard, faste by the Belle."

John Timbs, in an account of this inn, in the
City Press, says : — " Henry Bailly, the host of the
'Tabard,' was not improbably a descendant of
Henry Tite or Martin, of the borough of South-
wark, to whom King Henry HI., in the fifteenth
year of his reign, at the instance of William de la
Zouch, granted the customs of the town of South-
wark during the king's pleasure, he paying to the
Exchequer the annual fee and farm rent of ;^io
for the same. By that grant Henry Tite or Martin
was constituted bailiff of Southwark, and he would,
therefore, acquire the name of Henry the bailiff,
or Le Bailly. But be this as it may, it is a fact
on record, that Henry Bailly, the hosteller of the
' Tabard,' was one of the burgesses who represented
the borough of Southwark in the Parliament held at
Westminster, in the fiftieth Edward HI., A.D. 1376;
and he was again returned to the Parliament held
at Gloucester in the second of Richard H., A.D.
1378." We have already mentioned him in the
previous chapter. After the dissolution of the
monasteries, the " Tabard " and the abbot's house
were sold by Henry VHI. to John Master and
Thomas Master; and the particulars of the grant
in the Augmentation Office afford description of
the hostelry called " the Tabard of the Monastery
of Hyde, and the Abbots' place, with the stables,
and garden thereunto belonging."

The original " Tabard " was in existence as late
as the year 1602 ; it was an ancient timber house,
accounted to be as old as Chaucer's time. No
part of it, however, as it appeared at the time of
its demolition in 1874, was of the age of Chaucer;
but a good deal dated from the time of Queen
Elizabeth, when Master J. Preston newly repaired
it. "The most interesting portion was a stone-
coloured wooden gallery, in front of which was
a picture of the Canterbury Pilgrimage, said to

have been painted by Blake. The figures of the
pilgrims were copied from the celebrated print by
Stothard. Immediately behind was the chamber
known as the pilgrims' room, but only a portion of
the ancient hall. The gallery formerly extended
throughout the inn-buildings. The inn facing the
street was burnt in the great fire of 1676." Dryden
says, " I see all the pilgrims in the Canterbury
tales, their humour, with their features and their
very dress, as distinctly as if I had supper with
them at the 'Tabard,' in Southwark.'' A company
of gentlemen assembled at the inn, in 1833, to
commemorate the natal day of Chaucer, and it was
proposed annually to meet in honour of the vener-
able poet, whose works Spenser characterises as

"The well of English undefiled.
On Fame's eternal beadroU worthy to be filed."

But the idea, if ever seriously entertained, was soon
abandoned.

The house was repaired in the reign of Queen
Elizabeth, and from that period probably dated the
fireplace, carved oak panels, and other portions
spared by the fire of 1676, which were still to be
seen in the beginning of the present century. In
this fire, of which we have already had occasion to
speak, some six hundred houses had to be destroyed
in order to arrest the progress of the flames ; and
as the "Tabard" stood nearly in the centre of this
area, and was mostly built of wood, there can be
little doubt that the old inn perished. It was,
however, soon rebuilt, and as nearly as possible
on the same spot ; and although, through the
ignorance of the landlord or tenant, or both, it
was for a time called, not the " Tabard," but the
" Talbot," there can be no doubt that the inn, as it
remained down till recently, with its quaint old
timber galleries, and not less quaint old chambers,
was the immediate successor of the inn and hostelry
commemorated by our great poet.

In Urry's edition of Chaucer, published in
1721, there is a view of the "Tabard" as it then
stood, the yard apparently opening upon the street.
Down to about the close of the year 1873 the
entrance to the inn-yard was under an old and
picturesque gateway ; this, however, has been re-
moved altogether, and in its place, on our left
hand, a new public-house, approaching the gin-
palace in its flaunting appearance, has been erected,
and, as if in mockery, it has assumed the name of
the " Old Tabard." The buildings in the inn-yard,
as they remained down to the period above men-
tioned, consisted of a large and spacious wooden
structure, with a high tiled roof, the ground floor of
which had been for many years occupied as a

78

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwaik.

luggage office, and a place of call for carmen and
railway vans. This was all that remained of the
structure erected in the reign of Charles II., out
of the old materials after the fire. The upper part
of it once was one large apartment, but it had been
so much cut up and subdivided from time to time

hall, the room of public entertainment of the
hostelry, or, as it was popularly called, " The
Pilgrims' Room ; " and here it is conjectured
Chaucer's pilgrims — if that particular Canterbury
pilgrimage was a reality, and not a creation of the
poet's brain — spent the evening before wending

^^^^^" V^\

lU'.orFKKY CUAUCFR.

to adapt it to the purpose of modern bed-rooms
that it presented in the end but few features of
interest.

There was an exterior gallery, also of wood, on
the left, which, witii the rooms behind it, have
been levelled with the ground, in order to make
room for a new pile of warehouses. The rooms,
dull, heavy, dingy apartments as they were, are
said by tradition to have occupied the actual site,
or rather to have been carved out of the ancient

their way along the Old Kent Road towards the
shrine of St. Thomas ^ Kecket —

" The holy blissful martyr for to seeke."

From the old court-yard, however, actually rode
forth the company that lives and moves for ever
m Chaucer's poetry, or, at any rate, many a com-
pany of which the " Canterbury Tales " present
a life-like copy. In that room lay the seemly
prioress and her nuns; here the knight, with the

-^D G-^SSM,JOlff C/^0)Ce>gK/J(l-^-^--

OLD INNS IN SOUTHWARK, 1870— iSSo.

8o

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

" yong Squier " sharing his chamber, and waiting
dutifully upon his needs ; that staircase the burly
monk made re-echo and quake with his heavy
tread ; and here, leaning upon the balustrade-work,
the friar and the sompnour (summoner or attorney)
had many a sharp passage of arms.

Mr. Corner, who has left the best account* of
the old Southwark inn, was of opinion, from per-
sonal examination, that there was nothing at all in
the remains of the " Tabard," as they existed at
the time of its demolition, earlier than the South-
wark fire of 1676, after which was built the
" Pilgrims' Hall," the fireplaces of which were of
this date. The Rev. John Ward, in his " Diary,"
remarks that " the fire began at one Mr. Welsh's,
an oilman, near St. Margaret's Hill, betwixt the
' George ' and ' Talbot ' inns, as Bedloe (the
Jesuit) in his narrative relates."

The sign was ignorantly changed from the
" Tabard " to the " Talbot " — an old name for a
dog — about the year 1673, and Betterton describes
it under its new name in his modernised version
of Geoffrey Chaucer's prologue. On the beam
of the gateway facing the street was formerly in-
scribed, " This is the inn where Sir Jeffry Chaucer
and the nine-and-twenty pilgrims lay in their
journey to Canterbury, anno 13S3." This was
painted out in 1831 ; it was originally inscribed
upon a beam across the road, whence swung the
sign ; but the beam was removed in 1763, as inter-
fering with the traffic.

In Urry's view the several wooden buildings are
shown. The writing of the inscription over the
sign seemed ancient ; yet Tynvhitt is of opinion
that it was not older than the seventeenth century,
since Speght, who describes the " Tabard " in his
edition of Chaucer, published in 1602, does not
mention it. Probably it was put up after the fire
of 1676, when the "Tabard" had changed its
name into the " Talbot."

The sign in reality was changed in 1673, when
the signs of London were taken down, "and when,"
says .'\ubrey, " the ignorant landlord or tenant,
instead of the ancient sign of the Tabard, jHit
up the Talbot, or dog." Aubrey tells us further
that before the fire it was an old timber house,
" probably coeval with Chaucer's time." It was
probably this old part, facing the street, that was :
burnt.

" Chaucer has often been named as ' the well of
English undefiled ;' but from a general review of
all hi'- works," writes Dr. Johnson, in his " Lives of
the Poets," "it will apjjcar tliat lie entertained a

• Sm "Collcclions of the Surrey Archwological Society," vol. ii,, pnrl a.

very mean opinion of his native language, and of
the poets who employed it, and that, during a great
part of his life, he was incessantly occupied in trans-
lating the works of the French, Italian, and Latin
poets. His ' Romaunt of the Rose ' is a professed
translation from M'illiam de Lorris and Jean de
Meun ; the long and beautiful romance of ' Troilus
and Cressida ' is principally translated from Boc-
caccio's Filostrato ; the ' Legend of Good Women '
is a free translation from Ovid's Epistles, combined
with the histories of his heroines, derived from
various chronicles. The ' House of Fame ' is a
similar compilation ; and ' Palamon and Arcite ' is
known to be an imitation of the ' Theseide ' of
Boccaccio. On the whole, it may be doubted
whether he thought himself sufficiently qualified to
undertake an original work till he was past sixty
years of age, at which time .... he formed
and began to execute the plan of his ' Canterbury
Tales.'"

This elaborate work — the scene of which is laid
in the guest-chamber and in the court-yard of the
" Tabard " — was intended to contain a sketch of
all the characters of society in his time. These
were to be sketched out in an introductory pro-
logue, to be contrasted by characteristic dialogues,
and probably to be engaged in incidents which
should further develop their characters and dis-
positions ; and as stories were absolutely necessary
in every popular work, an appropriate tale was to
be put into the mouth of each of the pilgrims. It
is not extraordinary that the remainder of Chaucer's
life should not have been sufficient for the com-
pletion of so ambitious a plan. What he has
actually executed can be regarded only as a frag-
ment of a larger whole ; but, imperfect as it is, it
contains more information respecting the manners
and customs of the fourteenth century than could
be gleaned from the whole mass of contemporary
writers, English and foreign. " Chaucer's vein of
humour," remarks Warton, " although conspicuous
in the ' Canterbury Talcs,' is chiefly displayed in
the characters, described in the Prologue, with
which they are introduced. In these his know-
ledge of the world .availed him in a peculiar degree,
and enabled him to give such an accurate picture
of ancient manners as no contemporary nation
has transmitted to posterity. It is here that we
view the pursuits and employments, tlie customs
and diversions, of our ancestors, copied from the
life, and represented with equal truth and spirit by
a judge of mankind whose penetration qualified
him to discern their foibles and discriminating
peculiarities, and by an artist who understood that
proper selection of circumstances and those pre-

Southwarlc.]

CHAUCER'S CANTERBURY PILGRIMS.

dominant characteristics which form a finished
portrait. We are surprised to find, in an age so
gross and ignorant, such talent for satire and for ob-
servation on Hfe — qualities which usually exert them-
selves in more civilised periods, when the improved
state of society, by ... . establishing uniform
modes of behaviour, disposes mankind to study
themselves, and renders deviations of conduct and
singularities of character more immediately and
more necessarily the objects of censure and ridicule.
These curious and valuable remains are specimens
of Chaucer's native genius, unassisted and un-
alloyed. The figures are all British, and bear no
suspicious signatures of classical, Italian, or French
imitation." In fact, in his " Canterbury Tales "
Chaucer is at his best, and those Canterbury tales
belong especially to the street and house of which
we are now treating.

It may not be out of place here to give a brief
outline of the plan of the immortal work which, as
long as the English language lasts, will stand con-
nected with the hostelry of the " Tabard." The
framework of tTie " Canterbury Tales," it need hardly
be said, embraces a rich collection of legends and
narratives of various characters. The plot may
have been suggested by the " Decameron " of
Boccaccio, but that is all ; for, instead of adopting
the tame and frigid device of assembling a bevy of
Florentine youths and maidens, who tell and listen
to amorous tales, with no coherence or connection,
Chaucer has sketched in bold and sharp outlines
life-like pictures of the manners and social con-
dition of his age, and has made his figures stand
picturesquely forth, as types of the several classes
which they represent.

"Who has not heard," asks Dr. Pauli, in his
" Pictures of Old England," " of the far-famed
sanctuary of Canterbury, where rested the bones of
the archbishop, Thomas Becket, who bravely met
his death to uphold the cause of the Roman
Church, and who, venerated as the national saint
of England, became renowned as a martyr and
worker of miracles ? To that sanctuary, year by
year, and especially in the spring months, crowds
of devout pilgrims flocked from every part of the
Christian world ; and although such pilgrimages
were no doubt often undertaken from the most
laudable motives, it is certain that even in the
fourteenth century they had become, among the
great masses of the people, too often a pretext for
diversion .... It was such a pilgrimage as this
that Chaucer took for the framework of his great
poem ; and, as a Kentish man, he was probably
able to describe from experience and personal
observation all that occurred on an occasion of

this kind. The prologue, which is of extraordinary
length, begins with a short description of spring,
when nature begins to rejoice, and men from every
part of the land seek the ' blissful martyr's ' tomb
at Canterbury. At such a season — and some
writers have calculated that Chaucer refers to the
27th of April, 1383 — the poet was staying, with this
purpose in view, at the ' Tabard,' where pilgrims
were wont to assemble, and where they found good
accommodation for themselves and their horses
before they set forth on their way, travelling to-
gether, no doubt, at once for companionship and
for mutual protection. Towards evening, when the
host's room was filled, Chaucer had already made
acquaintance with most of the guests, who were of
all conditions and ranks. The twenty-nine persons
who composed the party are each introduced to us
with the most individual and life-like colouring. A
knight most appropriately heads the list. For
years his hfe has been spent either in the field or
in the Crusades ; for he was present when Alex-
andria was taken, and helped the Teutonic knights
in Prussia against the Russians, fought with the
Moors in Granada, with the Arabs in Africa, and
with the Turks in Asia. One may see by his dregs
that he seldom doffs his armour ; but, however
little attention he pays to externals, his careful
mode of speech, and his meek and Christian-like
deportment, betray the true and gentle knight. He
is accompanied by his son, a slim, light-haired, curly-
headed youth of twenty, the perfect young squire
of his day, who is elegantly and even foppishly
dressed. He has already made a campaign against
the French, and on that occasion, as well as in the
tourney, he has borne him well, in the hopes of
gaining his lady's grace. Love deprives him of his
sleep ; and, like the nightingale, he is overflowing
with songs to his beloved ; yet he does not fail,
with lowly service, to carve before his father at
table. In attendance on him is a yeoman, pro-
bably one of his father's many tenants, who, clad
in green, with sword and buckler, his bow in his
hand, and his arrows and dagger in his belt, re-
presents, with his sunburnt face, that has grown
brown among woods and fields, the stalwart race
who won for the Plantagenets the victories of
Crecy, of Poitiers, and Agincourt.

" In contrast with this group appears a daughter
of the Church, Madame Eglantine,* a prioress of
noble birth, as her delicate physiognomy, and the
nicety with which she eats and drinks, testify
plainly. With a sweet but somewhat nasal tone,
she chants the Liturgy, or parts of it ; she speaks

* See Vol. v., p. 571.

82

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tSouthwark.

French, too, by preference, but it is the French, not
of Paris, but of ' Stratford atte Bow.' She would
weep if they showed her a mouse in a trap, or if
they smote her Httle dog with a rod. A gold
brooch, ornamented with the letter A, encircled
with a crown, bearing the inscription Amor vincit
omnia, hangs from her string of coral beads. Next
to her comes a portly monk of the Benedictine
order, whose crown and cheeks are as smooth as
glass, and whose eyes shine like burning coals.
He, too, is elegantly dressed, for the sleeves of his
robe are trimmed with the finest fur, while a golden
love-knot pin holds his hood together. Clear is
the sound of the bells on his. bridle, for he knows
well how to sit his horse ; whilst hare-hunting and
a feast on a fat swan are more to him than the
rule of St. Benedict and the holy books in his
cell. A worthy pendant to this stately figure is the
Mendicant Friar, whose ready familiarity and good
humour make him the friend of the country-folks,
and the favourite Father Confessor. No one
understands better than he how to collect alms
for his cloister ; for he knows how to please the
women with timely gifts of needles and knives,
whilst he treats the men in the taverns, in which he
always knows where to find the best cheer. He
lisps his English with affected sweetness ; and when
he sings to his harp his eyes twinkle like the stars
on a frosty night.

" The ne.xt in order is a merchant, with his
forked beard, his Flemish beaver, and his well-
clasped boots. He knows the money-exchange on
both sides of the Channel, and best of all does
he understand how to secure his own interest.
Then follow a couple of learned men. First comes
the Clerk of Oxenford (Oxford), hoUowed-cheeked,
and lean as the horse on which he rides, and with
threadbare coat, for he has not yet secured a
benefice ; but his books are his whole joy, and
chief among them is his Aristotle. He knows no
greater joy than learning and teaching; yet he
shrinks back modestly and timidly, and nowhere
pushes himself forward. The other is a widely-
known Serjeant of the Law, who has at his fingers'
ends the whole confused mass of all the laws and
statutes from the days of William the Conqueror to
his o-.vn times, and knows admirably also how to
apply his learning practically. Although his heavy
fees and rich perquisites make him a rich man, he
goes forth on his pilgrimage dressed in a plain and
homely fashion. Next follows a Franklyn, who is
described as the owner of a freehold estate, and as
a man of note in his country, as having already
served as knight of the shire, and also as sheriff
There is no stint of good eating and 'Irinking in

his house ; for the dishes on his board come as
thick and close as flakes of snow, each in its turn,
according to the season of the year.

" The working classes are represented by a haber-
dasher, a carpenter, a weaver, a dyer, and a tap'ster,
honest industrious folk, each clad in the dress that
appertains to his order, and wearing the badge of
his guild. They have all interest and money
enough to make aldermen at some future time ;
and their wives would gladly hear themselves
greeted as ' madame,' and would fain go to church
in long and flowing mantles. With these are asso-
ciated a cook, who is master of all the delicacies of
his art, but who is not the less able on that account
to rehsh a cup of London ale. The ' shipman,' of
course, could not be absent from such a gathering ;
and here we see him as he comes from the west
country, sunburnt, and clad in the dress of his
class, equally prepared to quaff a draught of the
fine Burgundy that he is bringing home while the
master of the ship slumbers in his cabin, or to join
in a sea-fight against the foes of his native land.
He has visited every shore, from Gothland to Cape
Finisterre, and he knows every harbour and bay
in his course. The doctor of physic, too, is well
versed in all the branches of his art ; for, in
addition to the skilful practice of his profession, he
has systematically studied both astronomy and the
science of the horoscope, and is familiar with all
the learned writers of Greece and Arabia. He
dresses carefully, and smartly ; but he knows how
to keep the treasures which he amassed during the
prevalence of the ' black death.'

" Next follows a Wife of Bath, rich and comely,
who especially attracts the poet's attention, and
who is more communicative in regard to her own
affairs than any one else in the company. She
wears clothing of the finest stuffs, a broad hat with
a new-fashioned head-attire, red and tight-fitting
stockings, and a pair of sharp spurs on her heels.
She is already well advanced in years, has been
three times to Jerusalem, and has seen Rome and
Bologna, Compostella, and Cologne. Her round,
fair, reddish face looks a little bold, and shows that
after her many experiences of life it would not be
easy to put her out of countenance. She relates
to her fellow-travellers, witli the most edifying
frankness, that she has been married five times, and
that, therefore, independently of other considera-
tions, she is entitled to say a word or two about
love. She tells tliem how in her young and giddy
days she beguiled and deluded her first three
husbands, who were old but rii li ; and she does
not even withliold from lliem the narration of some
sharp ' curtain-lectures.' Her fourth marriage ter-

South wark.]

THE HOST'S PROPOSAL

83

minated, she tells them, in both parties taking their
own way ; but her last husband, although he is
only twenty years old, has studied at Oxford, and
is not to be drawn away from the perusal of a
ponderous tome, in which are collected the injunc-
tions of the Fathers of the Church to men to lead
a life of celibacy, enriched by examples culled
from ancient and modern times, of the manner in
which wives are wont to circumvent their husbands.
Once, when in her spite she tore some leaves out
of this book, she says that he beat her so hard that
ever since she has been deaf in one ear, but that
since they have got on admirably together. In
opposition to this dame, who forms one of the
most important links of connection between the
different members of the miscellaneous circle, we
have another admirably-drawn character, a poor
Parson, the son of humble but honest parents, who,
notwithstanding" his scanty benefice, is ever, con-
tented, even when his tithes fall short, and who
never fails, even in the worst of weather, to sally
forth, staff in hand, in order to visit the sick
members of his flock. He is always ready to
comfort and aid the needy ; and undismayed by
the pride of the rich and great, faithfully and
honestly proclaims the word of the Lord in his
teaching. The Parson is accompanied by his
brother, a hard-working, honest, and pious plough-
man ; and thus the two are brought forward as
belonging to that class which was bound to the soil
which it tilled.

" Before the poet leaves this rank of the social
scale, he brings before us also several other pro-
minent characters belonging to the people of his
day. There is the miller, a stout churl, bony and
strong, with a hard head, a fox-red beard, and a
wide mouth. He was not over-scrupulous in
appropriating to himself some of the corn which
his customers brought to his mill. . Over his white
coat and blue hood he carried a bag-pipe, and we
fear it must be added, that his talk was of a wanton
kind. Next conies the Manciple of a religious
house, who is connected with at least thirty lawyers,
and knows how to make his own profits whilst he
is buying for his masters. The Reeve of a Norfolk
lord, a man as lean as a rake, shaven and choleric, ;
appears dressed in a blue coat, riding a grey horse.
In his youth he had been a carpenter ; but no one i
knows better than he how to judge of the yielding
of the seed, or of the promise of the cattle. No-
body could well call him to account, for his books •
are always in the best order, and he and his master |
are in good accord. The Summoner of an arch-
deacon, with a fiery-red face, which no apothecary's
art can cool down, is appropriately described as ^

one of the lowest and least reputable of the com-
pany. Lustful and gluttonous, he cares most of all
for his wine ; and when he is ' half seas over,' he
speaks nothing but bad Latin, having picked up
some scraps of that tongue i-n attendance in the
Courts. His rival in viciousness is a Pardoner,
who has come straight from tlie Court of Rome.
His hair is as )'ellow as flax, and he carries in his
wallet a handful of relics, by the sale of which
he gets more money in a day than the Parson can
make in two months."

Such are the troop of worthy, and some perhaps
rather unworthy, guests who assembled in the
ancient hostelry a little more than five hundred years
ago, and whom the host, Harry Baily, right gladly
welcomes in his guesten-room, with the best cheer
that the " Tabard " can supply. Whilst the wine is
passing round among the company, he proposes,
with a boldness often to be seen in men of his
craft, to join them on the morrow in their pil-
grimage ; but takes the liberty of suggesting first
that it would be a good means of shortening the
way between London and Canterbury, if each
pilgrim were to tell one tale going and returning
also, and that the one who should tell the best tale
should have a supper at the inn at the expense
of the rest upon their safe return. Next, without
more ado, he offers himself to act as judge of the
performances ; and his proposition meets with
general approval. The company then retire to rest,
and the next morning, when the sun is up and the
day is fine, they mount their horses at the door of
the " Tabard," and, turning their backs on London,
take the road into Kent. The plan of our work
will not allow us to follow them beyond St. Ceorge's
Church, where they branch to the left along the
Old Kent Road, towards Blackheath and Rochester,
and so on to Becket's shrine. It only remains to
add that the poet did not live to complete even
half of his projected poem, which breaks off some-
what abruptly before the pilgrims actually enter
Canterbury, and hence, to our lasting regret, we
lose the expected pleasure of a graphic description
of their sayings and doings in that city, and of
their promised feast upon returning to Soulhwark.
With the tale, or rather discourse, of the Parson,
Chaucer brings his pilgrims to Canterbury; "but,"
observes Mr. T. Wright, "his original plan evi-
dently included the journey back to London.
Some writer, within a few years after Chaucer's
death, undertook to continue the work, and pro-
duced a ludicrous account of the proceedings of
the pilgrims at Canterbury, and the story of Beryn,
which was to be the first of the stories told on
their return. These are printed by Urry, from a

84

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

manuscript, to which, however, he is anything but
faithful."

As resrards the name of the inn now under notice,

Tabarders, as certain scholars or exhibitioners are
termed at Queen's College, Oxford. It may be
added that the name of the author of the "Canter-

Stow says of the "Tabard" that "it was so called of ' bury Tales" will still be kept in recollection in
a jacket, or sleeveless coat, whole before, open on j Southwark by the " Chaucer " lodge of Freemasons

boar's head court-yard, 1820.

both sides, with a square collar, winged at the
shoulders. A stately garment of old time, com-
monly worn of noblemen and others, both at home
and abroad in the wars ; but then (to wit, in the
wars) with their arms embroidered depicted upon
them, that every man by his coat of arms might be
known from others. But now these tabards are
only worn i)y the heralds, and be called their coats
of arms in service." The name of the dress is, or
was till very lately, kept in remembrance by the

which has been insiiiuicd at the " Bridge House
Tavern."

In the middle of the last century, the " Tabard "
(or Talbot) appears to have become a great inn for
carriers and for posting, and a well known place of
accommodation for visitors to London from distant
parts of the country. Mr. Thomas Wright, F.S.A.,
remarks, "When my grandfather visited London
towards the close of the reign of George II., or
early in that of George III., he tells mc in his

Southwark.]

THE "GEORGE" INN.

85

' Autobiography ' that he and his companions took
up their quarters as guests at the ' Talbot,' in
Southwark."

Not far from the "Tabard" was another old
inn called the " Bell," for Chaucer mentions " the
gentil hostelrie that heighte the ' Tabard' " as being
"fasteby the 'Bell.'"

following lines from the Alusarum Delicia, upon a
surfeit by drinking bad sack at the ' George Tavern '
in Southwark : —

' Oh, would I might turn poet for an hour.
To satirise with a vindictive power
Against the drawer ; or could I desire
Old Johnson's head had scalded in the fire ;

THE OLD " WHITE HART

Among the historic inns of Southwark to which
we are introduced by Mr. John Timbs in his
"London and Westminster," is one called the
"George," which also stood near the "Tabard."
"This inn," says Mr. Timbs, "is mentioned by
Stow, and even earlier, in 1554, the thirty-fifth
year of King Henry VHI. Its name was then
the 'St. George.' There is no further trace of it
till the seventeenth century, when there are two
tokens issued from this inn. Mr. Burn quotes the
248

How would he rage, and bring Apollo down
To scold with Bacchus, and depose the clown
For his ill government, and so confute
Our poets, apes, that do so much impute
Unto the grape inspirement.' "

In the year 1670 the "George" was in great
part burnt down and demolished by a fire which
broke out in this neighbourhood, and it was totally
consumed by the great fire of Southwark some six
years later ; the owner was at that time one John

86

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwarlc.

Sayer, and the tenant Mark Weyland. " The
present ' George Inn,' " continues Mr. Timbs,
"although built only in the seventeenth century,
seems to have been rebuilt on the old plan, having
open wooden galleries leading to the chambers on
each side of the inn-yard. After the iire, the host,
Mark Weyland, was succeeded by his widow, Mary
Weyland ; and she by William Golding, who was
followed by Thomas Green, whose niece, Mrs.
Frances Scholefield, and her then husband, became
landlord and landlady in 1809. Mrs. Scholefield
died at a great age in 1859. The property has
since been purchased by the governors of Guy's
Hospital.

" The ' George ' is mentioned in the records re-
lating to the 'Tabard,' to which it adjoins, in the
reign of King Henry VHL, as the ' St. George
Inn.' Two tokens of the seventeenth century, in
the Beaufoy Collection at Guildhall Library, ad-
mirably catalogued and annotated by Mr. Burn,
give the names of two landlords of the ' George '
at that period — viz., ' Anthony Blake, tapster,' and
'James Gunter.'"

The " White Hart," on the same side of the
High Street, was, according to Hatton, the inn
which had the largest sign in London, save and
except the "Castle" in Fleet Street. This also is
one of the inns mentioned by Stow in his " Survey;"
but, as John Timbs tells us, it possesses a still
earlier celebrity, having been the head-quarters of
Jack Cade and his rebel rout during their brief
possession of London in 1450. Shakespeare, in
the Second Part of King Henry VI., makes a mes-
senger enter in haste, and announce to the king —

" The rebels are in Southwark. Fly, my lord !
Jack Cade proclaims himself Lord Mortimer,
Descended from the Duke of Clarence' house,
And calls your grace usurper openly.
And vows to crown himself in Westminster."

And again, another messenger enters, and says —

"Jack Cade hath gotten London Bridge ;
The citizens fly and forsake their houses."

Aftenvards, Cade tints addresses liis followers : —
"Will you needs be hanged with your pardons
about your necks ? Hath my sword therefore broke
through London gates, that you should leave me
at tile ' White Hart,' in Southwark ? "

Fabyan, in liis " Chronicles," has this entry : —
"On July I, 1450, Jack Cade arrived in Southwark,
where he lodged at the 'Hart;' for he might not
be suffered to enter the City." Tlie following deed
of violence committed by Cade's followers at this
place is recorded in the " Chronicle of the Grey
Friars :"—" At the Whyt Harte, in Southwarke,
one Hawaydyne, of Sent Martyns, was behcddyd."

It is quite possible, however, that Shakespeare,
and the historians who have been content to follow
in his wake, have done injustice to the character of
Cade, exaggerating his faults, and suppressing all
notice of his virtues. As Mr. J. T. Smith remarks,
in his work on ''The Streets of London:" — "In
an unhappy time, when the fields of England were
strewed with dead, in the quarrels of contending
factions, when the people had scarcely the shadow
of a right, and were never thought of by the rulers
of the land, e.\cept when they wanted folks to
fight their battles, or when they needed money
that could by any possibility be wrung or squeezed
out of the population, this man, the despised Jack
Cade, stood forward to plead the cause of the
million. He made himself the voice of the
people : he understood their grievances, and made
a bold effort to redress them ; and if that effort
was a violent one, it was the fault of the age, rather
than of the man. A list of the grievances com-
plained of by Cade, preserved in Stow's 'Annals',
gives a high opinion of his shrewdness and modera-
tion, and makes him appear anything but the
ignorant man it has been the fashion to represent
him. The City of London was long in his favour,
and its merchants supplied him, without murmur,
with sufficient rations for his large army encamped
on Blackheath." This fact would seem by itself
sufficient to prove that he was not a vile republican
and communist of the Parisian type.

Neither the house now bearing the sign of the
"White Hart," nor its immediate predecessor,
which was pulled down a few years ago, can lay
claim to being the same building that aftbrded
shelter to Jack Cade; for in 1669 the back part
of the old inn was accidentally burnt down, and the
tavern was wholly destroyed by the great fire of
Southwark, in 1676. "It appears, however," says
Mr. John Timbs, "to have been rebuilt upon the
model of the older edifice, and realised the descrip-
tions which we read of the ancient inns, consisting
of one or more open courts or yards, surrounded
with open galleries, and which were frequently
used as temporary theatres for acting ])lays and
dramatic performances in the olden time."

"There are in London," writes Charles Dickens,
in his inimitable " Pickwick Papers," " several old
inns, once the head-quarters of celebrated coaches
in the days when coaches performed their journeys
in a graver and more solemn manner than they do
in these times ; but which have now degenerated
into little more than the abiding and booking
places of country wagons. The reader would look
in vain for any of these ancient hostelries among
the 'Golden Crosses' and 'Bull and Mouths,'

Southwark.')

THE "WHITE HART" INN.

87

which rear their stately fronts in the improved
streets of London. If he would light upon any
of these old places, he must direct his steps to the
obscurer quarters of the town ; and there in some
secluded nooks he will find several, still standing
with a kind of gloomy sturdiness amidst the modern
innovations which surround them. In the Borough
especially there still remain some half-dozen old
inns, which have preserved their external features
unchanged, and which have escaped alike the rage
for public improvement and the encroachments of
private speculation. Great, rambling, queer old
places they are, with galleries, and passages, and
staircases wide enough and antiquated enough to
furnish materials for a hundred ghost stories, sup-
posing we should ever be reduced to the lament-
able necessity of inventing any, and that the world
should exist long enough to exhaust the innumer-
able veracious legends connected with old London
Bridge and its adjacent neighbourhood on the
Surrey side." It is in the yard of one of these
inns — of one no less celebrated than the " White
Hart " — that our author first introduces to the
reader's notice Sam Weller, in the character of
" boots." " The yard," proceeds the novelist,
" presented none of that bustle and activity which
are the usual characteristics of a large coach inn.
Three or four lumbering wagons, each with a pile
of goods beneath its ample canopy, about the
height of the second-floor window of an ordinary
house, were stowed away beneath a lofty roof which
extended over one end of the yard ; and another,
which was probably to commence its journey that
morning, was drawn out into the open space. A
double tier of bedroom galleries, with old clumsy
balustrades, ran round two sides of the straggling
area, and a double row of bells to correspond,
sheltered from the weather by a little sloping roof,
hung over the door leading to the bar and coffee-
room. Two or three gigs and chaise-carts were
wheeled up under different little sheds and pent-
houses ; and the occasional heavy tread of a cart-
horse, or rattling of a chain at the further end of
the yard, announced to anybody who cared about
the matter that the stable lay in that direction.
When we add that a few boys in smock-frocks were
lying asleep on heavy packages, woolpacks, and
other articles that were scattered about on heaps
of straw, we have described as fully as need be
the general appearance of the yard of the ' White
Hart Inn,' High Street, Borough, on the particular
morning in question."

Another celebrated inn in the High Street was
the " Boar's Head," which formed a part of Sir
John Fastolfs benefactions to Magdalen College

at Oxford. Sir John Fastolf* was one of the
bravest of English generals in the French wars,
under Henry IV. and his successors. The pre-
mises are said to have comprised a narrow court
of ten or twelve houses, but they were removed in
1830 to make the approach to New London
Bridge. We learn from Mr. C. J. Palmer's " Per-
lustration of Great Yarmouth," that the Fastolf
family had their town residence in Southwark,
nearly opposite to the Tower of London, and that
the " Boar's Head Inn " was the property of Sir
John Fastolf Henry Windesone, in a letter to
John Paston, dated August, 1459, says, "An it
please you to remember my master (Sir John
Fastolf) at your best leisure, whether his old
promise shall stand as touching my preferring to
the ' Boar's Head,' in Southwark. Sir, I would
have been at another place, and of my master's
own motion he said that I should set up in the
' Boar's Head.' " In the churchwardens' account
for St. Olave's, Southwark, in 16 14 and 16 15, the
house is thus mentioned : — " Received of John
Barlovve, that dwelleth at y" ' Boar's Head ' in
Southwark, for suffering the encroachment at the
comer of the wall in y= Flemish Church-yard for
one yeare, iiijx."

There is in existence a rare small brass token of
the " Boar's Head ; " on one side is a boar's head,
with a lemon in its mouth, surrounded by the
words, "At the 'Boar's Head;'" and on the
other side, " in Southwark, 1649."

Mr. John Timbs, in his " Autobiography," says:
" Of a modern-built house, nearly opposite the east
end of St. Saviour's Church, my father and brother
had a long tenancy, though the place has better
claim to mention as being one of the ancient inns,
the ' Boar's Head,' Southwark, and the property of
Sir John Fastolf, of Caistor, Norfolk, and of South-
wark, and who had a large house in Stoney Lane,
St. Olave's. Sir John was a man of military renown,
having been in the French wars of Henry VI.,
and was Governor of Normandy ; he was also a
man of letters and learning, and at the instance
of his friend, William Waynfleet, Bishop of Win-
chester, the founder of Magdalen College, Oxford,
Sir John Fastolf gave the ' Boar's Head ' and other
possessions towards the foundation. In the
' Reliquiie Hearnianse,' edited by Dr. Bliss, is the
following entry relative to this bequest: '1721,
June 2. — The reason why they cannot give so good
an account of the benefaction of Sir John Fastolf
to Magd. Coll. is, because he gave it to the
founder, and left it to his management, so that 'tis

• This Sir John Fastolf is not to be confounded— though often con-
founded—with Shakespeare's Falstaff,

88

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

suppos'd 'twas swallow'd up in his own estate
that he settled upon the college. However, the
college knows this, that the " Boar's Head," in
Southwark, which was then an inn, and still retains
the name, tho' divided into several tenements
(which brings the college ;^i5o per annum), was
part of Sir John's gift.' The property above men-
tioned was for many years leased to the father of
the writer, and was by him principally sub-let to
weekly tenants. The premises were named ' Boar's
Head Court,' and consisted of two rows of tene-
ments, vis-d'Vis, and two houses at the east end,
with a gallery outside the first floor of the latter.
The tenements were fronted with strong weather-
board, and the balusters of the staircases were of
great age. The court entrance was between the
houses Nos. 25 and 26 east side of High Street, and
that number of houses from old London Bridge ;
and beneath the whole extent of the court was a
finely-vaulted cellar, doubtless the wine-cellar of the
' Boar's Head.' The property was cleared away in
making the approaches to new London Bridge ;
and on this site was subsequently built part of the
new front of St. Thomas's Hospital."

The " White Lion," which formerly stood at the
south end of St. Margaret's Hill, nearly opposite
the " Tabard Inn," was in its latter days, as we
have already seen, a prison " for felons and other
notorious malefactors." Stow, writing in 1598,
says, "The 'White Lion' is a gaol, so called for
that the same was a common hostelrie for the
receipt of travellers by that sign. This house was
first used as a gaol within these forty years last
past." In 1640, as Laud tells us in Jiis "History
of his Troubles," the rabble apprentices released
the whole of the prisoners in the " White Lion."
The place is mentioned in records of the reign of
Henry VIII. as having belonged to the Priory of
St. Mary Overy.

Henry VIII., as we all know, in spite of his
cruelty, lust, and tyranny, was a favourite sign
among hostelries both in London and up and down
the country. " Only fifty or sixty years ago,"
writes Mr. J. Larwood, in 1866, "there still re-
mained a well-painted half-length jiortrait of Bluff
Harry as the sign of the ' King's Head ' before a
public-house in Southwark. His personal appear-
ance doulnless, more than his character as a king,
was at the bottom of this popular favour. He
looked the personification of jollity and good cheer;
and when the evil passions expressed by his face
were lost under the clumsy brush of the sign-painter,
there remained nothing but a merry ' beery-looking '
Bacchus, well adapted for a public-house sign."
Another ancient inn bore the sign of the " Three

Tuns ; " all that is known of it, however, is that it
formed one of the favourite resorts of the Philan-
thropic Harmonists.

A propos of these old inns in the Borough, we
may add that Mr. Larwood tells us that in 1866
the " Sun and Hare," a carved stone sign, still
existed, walled up in the fagade of a house here.

Many of these inns had a religious, or quasi-
religious character. Such was the hostelrj' which
bore the sign of the " Three Brushes," or " Holy-
water Sprinklers," in allusion to the bnishes used
at the " Asperges," in the commencement of high
mass in the Catholic Church. This house stood
near the White Lion Prison. It had in it a room
with a richly-panelled wainscot, and a ceiling orna-
mented with the arms of Queen Elizabeth. Pro-
bably it had been a court-room for the " justices "
at the time when the " White Lion " was used as a
prison. Its existence is proved by tokens of one
" Robert Thornton, haberdasher, next the ' Three
Brushes,' in Southwark, 1667."

Between Union Street and Mint Street, oppo-
site St. George's Church, and on the site where now
stands the booking-office of the Midland Railway
Goods Depot, stood, till about the year 1870, an
old and well-known inn, called " The Catherine
Wheel." It was a famous inn for carriers during
the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. "The
' Catherine Wheel,' " writes Mr. Larwood, " was
formerly a very common sign, most likely adopted
from its being the badge of the order of the knights
of St. Catherine of Mount Sinai, formed in the
year 1063, for the protection of pilgrims on their
way to and from the Holy Sepulchre. Hence it
was a suggestive, if not an eloquent, sign for an inn,
as it intimated that the host was of the brother-
hood, although in a humble way, and would protect
the traveller from robbery in his inn — in the shape
of high charges and exactions — just as the knights
of St. Catherine protected them on the high road
from robbery by brigands. These knights wore
a white habit embroidered with a Catherine-wheel
{i.e., a wheel armed with spikes), and traversed
with a sword, stained with blood. There were also
mysteries in which St. Catherine played a favourite
part, one of which was acted by young ladies
on the entry of Queen Catherine of Aragon (queen
to our Henry VIII.) in London in 1501. In
honour of this queen the sign may occasionally
have been put uj). The Catherine-wheel was also
a charge in the Turners' arms. Flecknoe tells us
in his 'Enigmatical Cliaracters' (165S), that the
I'uritans clianged it into the Cat and Wiicel, under
which it is still to be seen on a public-house at
Castle Green, Bristol."

South warlc,]

HISTORIC INNS.

89

Another inn, called the "Three Widows," was
probably a perversion of the " Three Nuns " — the
ignorant people after the Reformation confounding
the white head-dresses of the religious sisterhood
with those of disconsolate relicts. Here, " at the
' Three Widows,' in Southwark," a foreigner, Peter
Treviris, in the early part of the sixteenth century,
set up a printing-press, which he kept constantly at
work for several years, as we learn from the title-
pages of his books.

Among the quaint old signs which prevailed
along this road, Mr. Larwood mentions one not
generally known, "The Old Pick my Toe," which
he suggests was "a vulgar representation of the
Roman slave who, being sent on a message of
importance, would not stop to pick even a thorn
out of his foot by the way." This curious sign,

is represented on
Samuel Bovery in

Mr. Larwood further tells us,
a trade-token issued by one
George Lane.

From the fact of Southwark being the chief seat
of our early theatres, its houses of entertainment
were very numerous, in addition to the old historic
inns which abounded in the High Street. " In the
Beaufoy collection," writes Mr. John Timbs, " are
several tokens of Southwark taverns : among them
those of the 'Bore's (Boar's) Head,' 1649; the
'Dogg and Ducke,' St. George's Fields, 165 1 ; the
' Green Man,' still remaining in Blackman Street ;
the 'Bull Head' Tavern, 1667 (mentioned by
Edmund AUeyne, the founder of Dulwich College,
as one of his resorts) ; the ' Duke of Suffolk's
Head,' 1669; and the 'Swan with Two Necks'—
properly ' Nicks.' "

CHAPTER VIII.
SOUTHWARK {conimiied).— OLD ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL, GUY'S HOSPITAL, &c.

" I cannot walk through Southwark without thinking of Chaucer and Shakespeare." — Le:^/i Hunt.

Foundation of St. Thomas's Hospital — A Well-timed Sermon of Bishop Ridley— Purchase of the Old Building by the Citizens of London— The
Lease of the Hospital in Pawn — The Edifice Rebuilt and Enlarged — Description of the Building— Statue of Sir Robert Clayton— Removal
of the Hospital to Lambeth — Value of Land near London Bridge — St. Thomas's Church — Gerard Johnson, the Sculptor of Shakespeare's
Bust— Foundation of Guy's Hospital — Anecdotes of Thomas Guy. the Founder— Description of the Hospital— Statue of Guy— Medical Staff
of the Hospital— London Bridge Railway Terminus — The Greenwich Railway — The South-Eastern Railway — The London, Brighton, and
South Coast Railway— Watson's Telegraph to the Downs— Southwark Waterworks — Waterworks at Old London Bridge.

We have already mentioned, in a previous chapter,*
the temporary church dedicated to St. Thomas by the
canons of St. Mary Overy's, whose priory had been
partly or entirely burnt down in the reign of King
John. About the same time — or to give the exact
date, in 12 13 — Richard, Prior of Bermondsey, with
the consent of the convent, founded close by it., in
the land appropriated to the cellarer, an " almery,"
or hospital, for converts and boys, which was
dedicated to St. Thomas the Martyr (h Becket).
For this ground, which adjoined the wall of the
monastery, we read that the prior appointed a
payment by the almoner to the cellarer of los. 4d.
annually, on the feast of St. Michael ; and this
almery, like the parent monastery, was exempt
from all episcopal jurisdiction. After the priory
church of St. Mary Overy had been repaired, and
the canons had returned thither, the temporary
building above mentioned, which stood within the
precincts of the Prior)' of Bermondsey, was assigned
for the use of the poor, and the support of certain
brethren and sisters. In 1228 this hospital of

* See ante, p. 21.

St. Mary Overy was transferred from the land
belonging to the priory to that of Amicius, Arch-
deacon of Surrey, who was custos, or warden, of the
hospital founded by the monks of Bermondsey,
which had the advantage of a better supply of
spring water, and pure air ; and the two institu-
tions being united, the hospital was dedicated
anew to the celebrated Archbishop of Canterbury,
under the title of the " Hospital of St. Thomas the
Martyr." The new arrangement took place under
the auspices of Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Win-
chester, who granted an indulgence for twenty days
to all such as should contribute to the expenses of
the hospital, the bishop himself becoming a bene-
factor to it ; hence it was always accounted as a
foundation of the bishops of Winchester, and the
prelates of that see had the patronage of it.

At the Dissolution, this hospital, or almery, was
surrendered to the king. At tliis time its members
were a master and six brethren, and three lay
sisters. They made forty beds for poor infirm
people, who also had victuals and firing supplied to
them. The institution, however, was suffered to go
to decay; but in 1552, Ridley, Bishop of London,

go

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwark.

by a well-timed sermon preached before King
Edward VI., awakened the benevolence of his dis-
position. The young king consulted with him how
he should commence some great charitable institu-
tions, and by his advice, addressed a letter to the
mayor and corporation of London, announcing his

opened it for the reception of the sick poor, unde"-
the patronage of the young king. In the course
of four months after the purchase of the hospital,
the institution had received no less than 260 poor
infirm people. In the following year a charter of
incorporation was granted for this foundation ; but

ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL, 184O.

intention, and requiring their advice. After some
consultation, at which the bishop assisted, three
different institutions were suggested, which at length
produced Christ's Hospital, for the education of
youth ; Bridewell, for the poor, and correcting the
profligate ; and this of St. Thomas, for the relief of
the lame and sick.

The citizens of London purnhascd the old build-
ing, and after having repaired and enlarged it,

seven years afterwards the hospital was so poor that
the lease was pawned for ^^50. Funds, however,
were obtained for its support, and the establishment
subsequently throve.

In 1664, part of St. Thomas's Hospit.al was used
as a military hospital, as we learn from the follow-
ing entry in John Evelyn's " Diary," under date of
2nd of December of that year : — " We deliver'd
the Privy Council letters to the Governors of St,

South wark.]

OLD ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL.

91

Thomas's Hospital, in Southwark, that a moiety of
the house should be reserv'd for such sick and
wounded as should from time to time be sent from
the Fleete during the war."

Much injury was done to the property belonging
to this establishment by the fires which, as already
stated, took place in Southwark in the Stuart times,
although the hospital itself received no damage on
either occasion. However, towards the close of

Prince of exemplary piety, and wisdom above his years, the
glory and ornament of his age, and most munificent Founder
of this Hospital, was erected at the expense of Charles Joyce,
Esq., in the year MDCCXx.wii.'

" Through the first court is the entrance to the
second, by a descent of steps. This court has a
Doric colonnade with a cornice, on which is the
basement to nine pilasters. On the north side is
the chapel for the use of the patients, in which

GUYS HOSPITAL.

the seventeenth century the building had become
so much decayed that a public subscription was
made in order to re-edify and enlarge it, and the
first stone of the new edifice was laid by Sir John
Fleet, who was Lord Mayor of London in 1692.
The whole was executed at different times, and the
work was not completed till the year 1732.

The following description of the edifice is given
in Bra)'ley's " History of Surrey," published in
1843: — "The hospital buildings now consist of
several quadrangles ; in the centre of the first of
which, facing Wellington Street, is a brazen statue
of Edward VL, by Scheemakers, bearing this in-
scription, on one side in Latin, on the other in
English : —

' This Statue of Kinp Edward the Sixth, a most excellent

service is performed daily ; on the south, the parish
church ; on the east, the hall, elevated on Tuscan
columns, with compartments for the chaplain,
treasurer, steward, &c. ; in the north-east corner is
the kitchen. The court-room is over the colonnade.
" The third court is surrounded by a colonnade
of the Tuscan order, with an entablature, from
which ascends a long range of pilasters of the Ionic,
order. In the centre is a statue of Sir Robert
Clayton, in his robes as Lord Mayor, with the
following inscription, in Latin and in English : —

•To Sir Robert Clayton, Knt., bom in Northampton-
shire, Citizen and Lord Mayor of London, President of this
Hospital, and Vice President of the new Workhouse, and a
bountiful benefactor to it ; a just Magistrate, and brave
Defender of the Liberty and Religion of his Country ; who
(besides many other instances of his charity to the poor) built

9»

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

fSoutliwark.

the Girls' Ward in Christ's Hospital ; gave first toward the
rebuilding of this house .^600 ; and left by his last Will
£2,yxi to the poor of it This statue was erected in his
life-time by the Governors an. Dom. MDCCI. as a monument
of their esteem of so much worth ; and, to preserve his
memory after death, was by them beautified anno Dom.

MDCCXIV.'

" In a small court, farther to the east, are two
wards for salivation (now little used), and what
is called the cutting-ward. Here also are the
surgery, bathing-rooms, theatre, and dead-house, in
which corpses are deposited until the time of inter-
ment. In the court-room are portraits of Edward
VI., William III., and Queen Mary; Sir Robert
Clayton, by Richardson ; Sir Gilbert Heathcote ;
Sir Gerard Conyers ; Sir John Eyles, by Vanloo ;
Sir James Campbell, &c. The gendemen here
named were presidents, and most of them patrons
also, of the foundation." A tablet over the entrance
to the court-room in the old building, in allusion to
the great fire of South wark. May, 1676, bore this
inscription: "In the midst of judgment God re-
membered mercy, and by His goodness in remem-
bering the poor and the distressed, put a stop to
the fire at this house, after it had been touched
several times therewith ; by which, in all proba-
bility, all this side of the Borough was preserved."

Northouck tells us that the reason why this fire
was so wide in its devastation was the fact that
the houses there were chiefly built of timber, lath,
and plaster; he adds that afterwards commissioners
were appointed for rebuilding them regularly and
substantially with brick, "as now (1773) appears
from the Bridge-foot up to St. Margaret's Hill
beyond it."

There were at the above period twenty wards for
the reception of patients, each under the care of a
sister or female superintendent, and two or three
nurses. The number of beds was 485. The grand
entrance, with its gates, lodges, &c., was from Wel-
lington Street, between the north and south wings.
In front was a dwarf stone wall, surmounted by
lofty and massive iron railings, which were carried
on and flanked the north side of the north wmg,
running along Duke Street, up to th" offices of the
South-Eastcrn Railway.

Imposing as the building was, it seems to have
had its drawbacks ; for we read in a topographical
account of it published many years ago, that " The
magnitude of St. Thomas's Hospital, with the relief
of its many colonnades, will not jiermit us wholly
to exclude the character of the edifice from a
species of grandeur. But it is time to rebuild this
hospital in a better style ; and with this improve-
ment might commence a system of decorating
the borough of Soutbwark and its vicinity, which

at present are more than a century behind the
northern bank of the river in the progress of re-
finement ; and to this it may be added, that if the
practice of wholly surrounding a space with build-
ings, so as to stagnate the air within the quadrangle,
is as unhealthy as we deem it to be, no plan can
be so unfit for an hospital as an accumulation of
courts behind each other."

Of the " inner life " of St. Thomas's Hospital we
shall have more to say when we reach Lambeth,
where the institution is now located. But we may
add here that it is one of the oldest hospitals in
the kingdom as an asylum where all sick poor
could be relieved. Its charter dates from the time
of Edward VI., who gave it some of its lands,
which were then of such little value that — as we
have shown above — the whole freehold was pawned
to the City for ^50, for the hospital was then in
debt, as it had been ever since it was first founded,
in 1 2 13, by " y= Priore of Bermondseye." How
the value of land has increased at that spot near
London Bridge since then need not be told, beyond
saying that some was sold by the hospital about the
year 1S65 at the rate of ^55,000 per acre, and
some a little later at the rate of ^70,000 an acre.
St. Thomas's, too, was made in the olden time into
a distinct parish, and had peculiar rights of its own.
Still, ancient possession and modern usefulness
proved no adequate bar to the march of that uni-
versal leveller — the railway. The site was wanted,
and the site %vas taken ; certainly at a very heavy
price — nearly ^300,000. When thus "disestab-
lished," the choice of the hospital authorities for a
new site was rather limited. It was felt necessary
that the new building should be on the south side
of the water ; that it should be in the midst of a
poor neighbourhood, to the wants of which it could
administer; and that, above all, it should have a
certain amount of open space around it. This latter
was a difficult desideratum, and while waiting a
choice, St. Thomas's Hospital, its patients, and its
staff were located in the music-hall which stood
in the midst of what was once the Surrey Zoo-
logical Gardens at Kennington. Fortunately, at tliis
time the southern Thames Embankment was being
made, and the necessities of its construction com-
pelled a considerable reclamation from the slimy
foreshore of the river opposite the Houses of Parlia-
ment. The advantages of this site were instantly
seen, and about eight and a half acres were bought
by the hospital from the Board of Works for about
^100,000. On this land the new hospital has
been built. The south wing of the old hospital
has been left standing, and has been converted
into a chapel.

THOMAS GUY.

0.1

On the north side of St. Thomas's Street — the
first turning from the High Street southward of
the London Bridge Station — stands St. Thomas's
Cliurch. It is a donative, in the gift of the
governors of St. Thomas's Hospital, the church
having been originally part of the hospital — as,
indeed, it continued down to the time of the re-
moval of the hospital as above mentioned— forming
a part of the south side of it. The old church
having become ruinous and dilapidated, it was
rebuilt early in the last century, at an expense of
,;£'3,ooo granted out of the coal duty, with the
further assistance of the governors and others. The
present edifice is a plain and unsightly building of
red brick, with stone dressings, of a nondescript
character, having a square tower in three storeys
attached to the south side. In the south side of
the church, which is open to the street, are four
lofty circular arched windows, the key-stones of
which are carved with cherubim ; its elevation is
finished with an attic over a cornice ; in the centre
is a pediment. The ground-floor of the tower
forms a porch to the church. The interior of the
church is exceedingly plain. The altar-screen is
cpmposed of oak, and encircled with Corinthian
pilasters, surmounted by their entablature and a
segmental pediment. This is crowned by " the
royal arms of George I., and over them a crest ; on
the side pilaster is the lion and unicorn; the whole
executed in dark oak."

Gerard Johnson, a Hollander, who made the
monumental bust and tomb of Shakespeare in
St rat ford-on- A von Church, lived in the parish of
St. Thomas, as ascertained by Mr. Peter Cun-
ningham and Mr. J. O. Halliwell. Dugdale assures
us that Gerard Johnson must often have seen
Shakespeare.

On the south side of St. Thomas's Street, and
covering a large space of ground, stands Guy's
Hospital — perhaps the noblest institution in Lon-
don founded by one man. It was founded, along
with other charities, by an eccentric but philan-
thropic individual, Thomas Guy, a bookseller of
London, of whom we have spoken in a previous
volume, in our account of the Stock Exchange.*
The son of a lighterman and coaldealer, he was
born in Horselydown, Southwark, in 1645. He
was apprenticed to a bookseller in Cheapside, and
having been admitted a freeman of the Stationers'
Company in 1668, was received into their livery in
1673. He began business with a stock of about
^£200, in the house which, till about the year 1834,
formed the angle between Comhill and Lombard

• See Vol. I., p. 474.

Street, but which was pulled down for the improve-
ments then made in that neighbourhood. His
first success was owing to the great demand for
English Bibles printed in Holland, in which lie
dealt largely ; but on the importation of these being
stopped by law, he contracted with the University
of Oxford for the privilege of printing Bibles ; and
having furnished himself with types from Holland,
carried on this branch of business for many years,
with great profit.

It has been stated by other writers, and also in
the previous volume of this work, referred to above,
that whatever foundation he might have laid for
his future wealth, in the usual course of trade, no
small portion of his property arose from his pur-
chase of seamen's tickets. These, it is asserted,
he bought at a large discount, and afterwards
subscribed in the South Sea Company, which was
established in 17 10, for the purpose of discharging
those tickets, and giving a large interest. Here, it
is added, Mr. Guy was so extensively, as well as
cautiously, concerned that in 1720 he was pos-
sessed of ;^4S,5oo stock, by disposing of which
when it bore an extremely advanced price, he
realised a considerable sum. But Charles Knight,
in his "Shadows of the Old Booksellers," has
shown good reasons for believing that seamen's
tickets were not in use after Thomas Guy was out
of his apprenticeship, and that therefore we must
look to his sale of Bibles as the real basis of his
wealth.

" With regard to the South Sea Stock," observes
a writer in the Saturday Magazine in 1834, " Mr.
Guy had no hand in framing or conducting that
scandalous fraud ; he obtained the stock when low,
and had the good sense to sell it at the time it
was at its height. Never, indeed, can we approve
of that speculative spirit which leads men to step
out of the line of a particular calling, and to ' make
haste to be rich ; ' nor, while we admire the ?node
in which a fortune has been spent, and contem-
plate some splendid endowment that has derived
its origin from the ' bad success ' of gambling or
avarice, can we be so far misled as to allow that
the end justifies the means. Gay, who, under the
form of a fable, often couched just and biting
satire, alluding to the large fortunes suddenly
made by means of the ' South Sea Bubble,' re-
marks—

' How many saucy airs we meet.
From Temple Bar to Aldgate Street !
Proud rogues who shared the South Sea prey.
And sprung, like mushrooms, in a day.' "

Being a single man, Mr. Guy is reported to have
spent but a very small portion of his profits as a

94

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

LSouthwark.

bookseller. He dined on his counter, with no other
tablecloth than a newspaper, and was not more nice
about his wearing apparel. " For the application
of this fortune to charitable uses," says Highmore,
in his " History of the Public Charities of London,''
" the public are indebted to a trifling circumstance.
He employed a female servant, whom he had
agreed to marry. Some days previous to the
intended ceremony, he had ordered the pavement
before his door to be mended up to a particular
stone which he had marked, and then left his
house on business. The servant, in his absence,
looking at the workmen, saw a broken stone be-
yond this mark which they had not repaired, and
on pointing to it with that design, they acquainted
her that Mr. Guy had not ordered them to go so
far. She, however, directed it to be done, adding,
with the security incidental to her expectation of
soon becoming his wife, ' Tell him I bade you,
and he will not be angry.' But she too soon learnt
how fatal it is for any one in a dependent situation
to exceed the limits of his or her authority ; for
her master, on his return, was enraged at finding
that they had gone beyond his orders, renounced
his engagement to his servant, and devoted his
ample fortune to public charity." Another anec-
dote has been related of Guy, which exhibits him
in another light. He was so complete a pattern
of economy, that the celebrated Vulture Hopkins
once called upon him to have a lesson in the art
of saving. Being introduced into the parlour,
Guy, not knowing his visitor, lighted a candle ;
but when Hopkins said, " Sir, I always thought
myself perfect in the art of getting and husbanding
money, but being informed that you far exceed
me, I have taken the liberty of waiting upon you
to be satisfied on this subject." Guy replied, " If
that is all your business, we can as well talk it over
in the dark," and immediately put out the candle.
This was evidence sufficient for Hopkins, who
acknowledged Guy to be his master, and took his
leave.

The following anecdote which has been told
concerning Mr. (Suy will bear repetition : — " The
munificent founder of Guy's Hospital was a man
of very humble appearance, and of a melancholy
cast of countenance. One day, while pensively
leaning over one of the bridges, he attracted the
attention and commiseration of a bystander, who,
apprehensive that he meditated self-destruction,
could not refrain from addressing him with an
earnest entreaty, ' not to let his misfortunes tcni])t
him to commit any rash act;' then, placing in his
hand a guinea, with the delicacy of genuine bene-
volence, he hastily withdrew. Guy, roused from

his reverie, followed the stranger, and warmly
expressed his gratitude, but assured him he was
mistaken in supposing him to be either in distress
of mind or of circumstances, making an earnest
request to be favoured with the name of the good
man, his intended benefactor. The address was
given, and they parted. Some years after, Guy,
observing the name of his friend in the bankrupt
list, hastened to his house ; brought to his recol-
lection their former interview ; found, upon inves-
tigation, that no blame could be attached to him
under his misfortunes ; intimated his ability and
also his full intention to serve him ; entered into
immediate arrangements with his creditors ; and,
finally, re-established him in a business which ever
after prospered in his hands, and in the hands of
his children's children, for many years in Newgate
Street."

Thomas Guy served in several Parliaments as
member for Tamworth, in Staffordshire, where his
mother was born, and where he founded alms-
houses for poor persons, besides bestowing con-
siderable benefactions. To Christ's Hospital he
gave a perpetual annuity of ^400, to receive, on
the nomination of his trustees, four children yearly,
who must be his connections ; and there are
always applicants. He left ^1,000 to discharge
poor prisoners in London, Middlesex, and Surrey,
at ;^5 each, and another ;i^i,ooo to be distributed
among poor housekeepers at the discretion of his
executors. The erection of the hospital now
under notice, the earliest part of which was built
by Dance, is said to have cost nearly ;!^i9,ooo,
the amount of the residue of Guy's personal pro-
perty being stated at upwards of ^£^2 19,000. His
death happened on December 27, 1724, in the
eightieth year of his age, before which he saw his
hospital covered with the roof Besides his public
expenses he gave during life to many of his poor
relations ;^io or ^20 a year, and to others money
to advance them in life; to his aged relations
^870 in annuities ; and to his younger relations
and executors the sum of ^75,589.

Before Guy had founded the hospital to which
he gave his name, he had contributed ^loo annu-
ally to St. Thomas's Hospital for eleven years, and
had erected the stately iron gate with the large
houses on each side.

It is now time to speak more of the hospital
which bears his name. At the age of seventy-six
Mr. Guy procured from the governors of St.
Thomas's Hos])ital the lease of a large piece of
ground for a term of 999 years, at a rent of .^30
a year. Having cleared the space, which was then
occupied by a number of poor dwelling-houses, he

Soulluvark,]

GUY'S HOSPITAL.

95

laid the first stone of his new building in the
spring of 1722. He lived to see it covered in; but
before the excellent institution was in full work
the benevolent founder was laid in the grave ;
for the hospital received within its walls the first
sixty patients on the 6th of January, 1725. His
trustees faithfully effected the completion of his great
and good design, and shortly after procured an
Act of Parliament for establishing the foundation,
according to the directions of his will. Large and
profitable estates were afterwards purchased in
Herefordshire and Essex, for the benefit of the
institution ; the lease of an additional piece of
ground was also obtained, for which, with the
former, the governors still pay an annual sum to
St. Thomas's. On this were erected two handsome
wings, connected by an iron railing and gates.
These gates open into a square court, in the centre
of which is a bronze statue of the founder, by
Scheemakers. In front of the pedestal is this
inscription : — "Thomas Guy, sole Founder of this
Hospital in his life-time, a.d. mdccxxii." On
the west side of the pedestal is represented, in
basso relievo, the parable of the Good Samaritan ;
on the south side are Mn Guy's armorial bearings ;
and on the west, a representation of our Saviour
healing the impotent man.

The centre of the principal front of the hospital
is of stone, and consists of a rusticated basement, in
which are three arched entrances to the quadrangle,
and two windows. This supports two pilasters and
four Ionic columns, the intercolumniation contain-
ing three windows and two niches, in which are
two emblematic figures, .i^sculapius, the heathen
god of medicine, and Hygieia, the goddess of
health, daughter of ^sculapius. The tympanum
is ornamented with an emblematic relief This
front was new faced about the year 177S, and is,
with the statues, the work of Bacon, who was a
native of Southwark. Passing through the arches,
the visitor enters a long corridor, on each side of
which are several of the wards for the patients.
'J"he court-room, with its painted ceiling, is a hand-
some apartment ; over the president's chair is a
portrait of the founder, by Dahl.

The chapel, in the west wing, is plainly fitted
up. At the end opposite the entrance is a marble
statue of Guy. It was executed by Bacon, in
1779, and is said to have cost ;^i,ooo. Mr. Guy
is represented in his livery gown, holding out one
hand to raise a poor invalid lying on the earth,
and pointing with the other to a distressed object,
canied on a litter into one of the wards, the
hospital being in the background. On the pedestal
is this inscription : —

Underneath are deposited the remains of

Thomas Guy,

Citizen of London, Member of Parliament, and the sole

founder of this hospital in his life-time.
It is peculiar to this beneficent man to have preserved,
during a long course of prosperity and industry, in
pouring forth to the wants of others, all
that he had earned by labour,
or withheld from self-
indulgence.

Warm with philanthropy, and exalted by charity, his mind

expanded to those noble affections which grow but

too rarely from the most elevated pursuits.

After administering with extensive bounty to the claims of

consanguinity, he established this asylum for that stage

of languor and disease, to which the charity of

others had not reached : he provided a

retreat for hopeless insanity, and

rivalled the endowments

of kings.

He died the 27th of December, 1724, in the Soth year

of his age.

The hospital was founded for the reception of

400 patients, but having been enlarged through
the aid of a munificent bequest in 1S29, from Mr.
William Hunt, of Petersham, it now contains nearly
600 beds ; an additional wing having been con-
structed accommodating 320 more patients. The
hospital buildings form an extensive and handsome
range, and, with the large airing grounds attached,
occupy an area of about six acres. The administra-
tion of its affairs is under the care of sixty
governors ; the treasurer being the general acting
manager, and having the especial direction of the
Medical School. The annual income of the
institution is about ^^32,000, of which nearly
_;^25,ooo is available for hospital purposes.

The ordinary medical staff consists of three
physicians and three assistant-physicians for general
medical cases ; two obstetric physicians ; four
surgeons, and three assistant-surgeons for general
surgical cases ; also ophthalmic, dental, and aural
surgeons ; besides other professors not engaged in
the care of patients, who assist as lecturers and
demonstrators in the school.

The school department comprises anatomical,
pathological, and comparative anatomy museums,
materia medica museum, model-room, dissecting-
room, electrifying - room, chemical laboratories,
library, besides every appurtenance that modern
science has devised for medical institutions of the
first magnitude. Close by, a commodious theatre
was erected by Dr. Edward Grainger, whose early
death, in 1S23, was a loss to the medical world.
At the age of twenty-two, he commenced here a
course of lectures on anatomy and physiology ; but
his pupils increasing beyond the capacities of his

q6

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Southwaric

theatre, he built a larger room, and turned the
former into a museum.

Passing to the rear of the hospital buildings,
amidst trees which flourish well and give a look
of cheerfulness, so delightful to many a languid
sufferer when permitted to walk forth into the air,

and as one of the first schools of medicine in
Europe. Some idea of the magnitude of its bene-
volent work may be gathered from the fact that
in the course of a year it receives into its wards
nearly 5,000 in-patients, and affords medical
relief to upwards of 40,000 out-patients, including

FOLLY DircH, JACOB'S ISLAND {see next Chapter).

the visitor reaches the museum. This is a neat
edifice, comprising a valuable surgical collection,
the principal feature of which is a vast variety of
wax models, illustrative of the wonders of the human
frame, and of remarkable cases of disease.

Guy's Hospital, we need scarcely add, has long
held a prominent position among the philanthropic
institutions in this country, both in respect to the
great scope of the charity it dispenses as a hospital,

a large number of minor accidents and urgent
surgery cases, and upwards of 2,000 lying-in women,
who are attended to at their own homes.

It should also be stated that a fund has been
established for relieving the families of deserving
and very poor patients in Guy's Hospital, by gifts
of coal and other provisions, and in some instances
by money. The chief distress of mothers and
children must be during the absence of their

i'llilkfti,, ,iiiifiili'i:„fii'i;i

240

98

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

CSouthwark.

"bread-winner" in hospital, and few — except those
who have undergone the trial — can conceive what
this is, or what the anxiety which a patient suffers
while powerless to help his family.

Between St. Thomas's Street East and Tooley
Street, and covering some considerable part of the
ground formerly occupied by St. Thomas's Hospital,
is the cluster of stations, irregularly combined, and
without any unity of plan or architectural beauty,
forming the terminus of the following railways : —
The Crystal Palace; the London, Brighton, and
South Coast ; the South-Eastern ; the North Kent ;
the South London, &c. From London Bridge the
approach is by an inclined road, which passes
under an iron bridge, over which is carried the
Cannon Street and Charing Cross extension of the
South-Eastern Railway, which originally had its
terminus here. The approach, previous to the
above-mentioned extension, was bounded on the
south-west by St. Thomas's Hospital and giounds,
and on the north-east by a range of shops, com-
municating with Tooley Street. The south-western
portion of the station comprises the booking-offices
of the Brighton and South-Coast line, and also
the offices of the Crystal Palace and of the South
London lines. On the extreme south is the Rail-
way Hotel, one of those monster establishments
of which we have already had occasion to speak
in our notices of the Midland and other railway
stations.

The London and Greenwich Railway was the
first hne opened here, and, indeed, in the neigh-
bourhood of London. It is remarkable as standing
upon one continuous series of 878 brick arches, and
is interesting to engineers from the experiment tried
upon it as regards the respective value of stone
sleepers (or square slabs) at intervals, or continuous
bearers of wood, for the support of the rail. Stones
were first used, but with such unsatisfactory result,
that they were taken up and replaced with timber.
The improvement, it is said, has been most de-
cisive. With reference to its formation, we read
that in 1834 the substructions of this work were
advancing rapidly, and so great was the quantity
of bricks required for them, that the price of brick-
work in and about London had been "materially
affected by this extraordinary consumption of tliat
material." At first, the tliird-class carriages on this
line were simply common trucks, with no seats,
and no covering overhead. The author of the
" Wonders of Nature and Art " writes, " We have
anticipated this line to be a failure, unless it be
extended to Dover, in which case an immense
advantage would be secured to the jniblic. Colonel
Landmann, the engineer, estimated the cost at

;^4oo,ooo, but the expenditure thus far has ex-
ceeded ;^6oo,ooo, and a considerable sum is still
required in order to complete it."

The original Act of the South-Eastern Railway
Company was obtained in 1836, for the express
purpose of constructing a railway from London to
Dover, the expenses of which were calculated at
;^i,4oo,ooo, to be raised in ;!^5o shares; but by
subsequent Acts the company was authorised to
form branch lines, and for that purpose to make
loans and issue new shares, involving for the Maid-
stone and Isle of Thanet branches an expenditure
of ;^3, 564,170; besides which there has been a
further outlay of about ^1,800,000, to complete
the Hastings branch and that from Reigate, through
Dorking and Guildford, to Reading.

The Greenwich Line, as stated above, had been
previously constructed ; and the Croydon Company
had obtained the sanction of Parliament to pass
over three miles thereof to New Cross, whence
they continued their line seven miles and a half to
Croydon. The next ten miles and a quarter, as
far as Red Hill, or the Reigate Junction, belonged
originally to the South-Eastern and Brighton Com-
panies in joint shares ; but the whole has subse-
quently, as sanctioned by Act of Parliament, been
purchased by the South-Eastern Company; so
that the whole line, together with the Greenwich
Line, which it holds on a lease of 999 years, belongs
to this company. More recently, also, besides con-
structing several branch lines, the South-Eastern
Company has purchased the North Kent Line, thus
becoming master of the whole railway communica-
tion for Kent, East Surrey, and a part of Sussex.

The railway was opened as far as Tunbridge,
forty miles from London, in May, 1842 ; from
thence to Ashford in the following December ; as
far as Folkestone in June, 1843 ; and to Dover in
February, 1844. The branch line to Maidstone
was opened in September of the same year ; that
to Hastings, in February, 1852; and the junction
line to Reading in 1849. This railway has seven
tunnels on its main line to Dover, and four on
its branch lines, some of them of a stupendous
nature, involving not only very great engineering
skill, but a vast outlay of capital ; besides which,
there are numerous embankments, deep cuttings,
viaducts, and bridges, which bespeak no ordinary
skill. Since 186S, however, the greater number of
the main-line trains to Hastings, Dover, Margate,
&c., pass over a part of the North Kent Line by
a more direct route to Tunbridge; the original
main line to Red Hill being used for the Dorking
and Reading trains, as well as by the Brighton
Company.

South wpjk.j

LONDON BRIDGE RAILWAY STATION.

99

The construction of the London and Brighton
Railway seems to have been a somewhat slow and
laborious undertaking ; at all events, we read in
"Wonders of Nature and Art," 1839, that — "After
the immense bustle in Parliament, and the shame-
less stock-jobbing of some of the directors and
managers of this line of road, we are unable to
report the progress of it. That it has been com-
menced and is proceeding is quite true ; but it is
proceeding slowly, and as yet the public is quite
in the dark as to its present expenditure and its
anticipated cost." This railway, however, we need
hardly state, was at length completed, and opened
in September, 1841, or in about three years from
the time of its commencement.

On either side of the booking-office of the
Brighton and South-Coast Railway, when it was
first erected, was a screen, one masking the gateway
of the carriage-road arrival side of this railway, and
the other giving access to the carriage-road of the
Dover line. The South-Eastern booking-office faces
the approach road, and forms the main portion of
the facade. Beyond it are the North Kent and
Greenwich booking-offices. On the first-floors of
these several buildings are the offices, board-rooms,
and other accommodations for the chief officials.
There are spare lines for the reception of empty
carriages under the same roofs as the respective
arrival and departure lines. The roofs themselves
are somewhat remarkable ; and there are particular
details connected with the roadway of a nature
to merit prolonged examination. Immediately in
the rear of the station are several elevated signal-
boxes, furnished with the latest and most approved
appliances for signalling the arrival and departure
of the several trains ; so that, notwithstanding the
large number of the lines of rail entering the
station there is scarcely any room for accidents —
indeed, an accident here is very rarely heard of

A few words concerning the various lines of
railway from London Bridge Station may not be
out of place here. By the Brighton line, fifty-one
miles in length, that favourite watering-place has
been made a " suburb of London : " it has many
branch lines ; and from Brighton, railways run east
and west along the coast. The South-Eastcrn
originally branched off from the Brighton line at
the station of Red Hill, near Reigate, and reached
Dover by a roundabout course, with a branch from
Tunbridge through Tunbridge Wells to Hastings ;
but passengers are now generally conveyed to
Dover, Hastings, &c., by the new line vi^ Seven-
oaks. The metropolitan extension of this line
crosses the river by an iron bridge to Cannon
Street, and also to the Charing Cross Station, built [

on the site of Hungerford Market. The Croydon
passes by Forest Hill, Sydenham, and Norwood,
with a short branch line tiirough Milcham to the
South-Western Railway at Wimbledon, and another
branch through Epsom to Horsham, on the London
and Portsmouth line. The Crystal Palace line
branches off from the Sydenham station, and after
passing close to Lower Norwood, Streatham, and
Balham, reaches its terminus at the Victoria Station,
Pimlico. The North Kent hne passes by a tunnel
under Shooter's Hill to Woolwich, Gravesend, and
Rochester, and thence to Maidstone. The South
London line runs parallel with the Greenwich Rail-
way as far as South Bermondsey, then passes south-
ward to Clapham, and unites with western London
at Victoria Station, Pimlico.

At the entrance to Duke Street — which leads
from London Bridge down to Tooley Street, by the
side of the railway approach — might have been
seen during 1842-3, a lofty building bearing this
inscription, " Watson's Telegraph to the Downs."
This telegraph station, which occupied the summit
of a building once used as a shot tower, and erected
in 1808, was established by a Mr. Watson, of
Cornhill, about the year 1842, with the object of
connecting London with Deal by means of the old
semaphore telegraph. The first station near St.
Olave's Church was placed in communication with
a similar station near Forest Hill, and with others
on elevated spots between the metropolis and
Deal. At the summit of the tower were two masts
about twenty feet apart, and fifty feet high. On
each side of these masts were the semaphore arms,
which were to be seen in various positions, and
were worked by levers in the tower below. This
telegraph station, which was a conspicuous object
to foot-passengers proceeding over London Bridge,
was consumed in the great fire in which St. Olave's
Church was partially destroyed, with the sur-
rounding buildings, on the 19th of August, 1843.
This system of telegraphy was in its turn super-
seded by the electric telegraph, which very soon
afterwards came into operation on all the railway
lines in Great Britain, and thus rendered unneces-
sary the old cumbrous system of semaphore tele-
graphy, the success of which depended so much
on clear weather for the accurate interpretation of
the signals. The shot-tower, close by St. Olave's
Church, is shown in pages 6, 102, and 103 of the
present volume.

Before closing this chapter, and making our way
into Bermondsey, we may be pardoned for saying a
word or two concerning the water-supply of South-
wark about half a century ago. In the Mirror for
1S28, we read that "the Southwark Water Works

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Bermondsey.

(the property of an individual) are supplied from
the middle of the Thames, below Southwark and
London Bridges ; and the ^vater thus taken is sent
out to the tenants without standing to settle or any
filtration, further than that it receives from passing
through wire grates and small holes in metallic
plates. The number of houses supplied by these
works is about 7,000, and the average daily supply
about 720,000 gallons." A propos q{ these water
works, we may state that in 1581 Peter Morris, a
Dutchman, established a wheel worked by the tide
at London Bridge to lift water from the river, and
propel it into the houses of the citizens, whose

admiration he captivated by forcing a jet over the
steeple of St. Magnus' Church, close by. These
water-works, a cumbrous-looking structure of wood,
stood on the Middlesex side of the Thames, adjoin-
ing the bridge, and near the site of Fishmongers'
Hall steam-boat pier. The works subsequently
passed into the possession of the New River Com-
pany, and lasted for 240 years, until demolished by
Act of Parliament in 1822. On the Surrey side of
the old bridge formerly stood the water-works for
supplying the inhabitants of Southwark, which we
have already mentioned, but these were removed
long before the bridge was demolished.

CHAPTER IX.

BERMONDSEY.— TOOLEY STREET, &c.

" Trans Tiberim longe cubat hie." — Horace^ ^^ Satires."

Derivation of the Name of Bermondsey— General Aspect of the Locality — Duke Street— Tooley Street— St. Olave's Church— Abbots' Inn of St.
Augustine — Sellinger's Wharf— The Inn of the Abbots of Battle — Maze Pond— The House of the Priors of Lewes — St. Olave's Grammar
School — Great Fires at the Wharves in Tooley Street — Death of Braidwood, the Fireman — The " Lion and Key" — The Borough Compter—
The " Ship and Shovel" — Carter Lane Meeting House — Dr. Gill and Dr. Rippon— The "Three Tailors of Tooley Street" — The "Isle of
Ducks" — 'funnels under London Bridge Railway Station— Snow's Fields— A Colony of Hatters — Horselydown — Fair Street — The Birth-
place of Thomas Guy — The Church of St. John the Evangelist — Goat's Yard — Reach's Meeting-house — Absence of Singing in Dissenting
Meeting-houses two Centuries ago— Queen Elizabeth's Grammar School — A Description of Horselydown and the adjacent Neighbourhood
in Former Times — Dockhead — "Shad Thames" — Jacob's Island,

In a previous chapter of this volume we have
considered the Borough High Street as the line
of demarcation between the eastern and western
portions of the southern suburbs of Bermondsey
and Southwark ; here, then, we may fittingly
separate their respective histories. The name
Bermondsey — the "land of leather," as it has been
called in our own day — is generally supposed to
be derived from Beormund, tlie Saxon lord of the
district, and ea, or eye, an " island," descriptive of
the locality, near the river-side, and intersected by
numerous small streams and ditches ; though one
antiquary has suggested, with more than ordinary
rashness, that beonn is Saxon for jjrince, and that
mund signified security or peace, so that Bermond-
sey may be interpreted as " the prince's security by
the water's side." Wilkinson, in his account of
Bermondsey .^bbey in "Londina Illustrata," states
that the words ea, or eye, "are frequent in the
names of places whose situation on the banks of
rivers renders them insular and marshy ; " and the
word still exists in the longer form of "eyot."

" Looking, then," writes Charles Knight, " upon
the original Bermondsey as a kind of marshy island
when the tide was out, and a wide expanse of water
when it was in, till gradually reclaimed and made
useful, one cannot help being struck with the many
indications of the old state of things yet remaining,
although the preseni Bermondsey is densely covered

with habitations and houses. The descent down
the street leading from London Bridge tells you
how low lie the territories you are about to explore ;
the numerous wharves, the docks, the water-courses,
the ditches, which bound and intersect so consider-
able a portion of it, seem but so many memorials
of the once potent element ; the very streets have
a damp fee/ about them ; and in the part known as
Jacob's Island the overhanging houses, and the
little wooden bridges that span the stream, have,
notwithstanding their forlorn look, something of a
Dutch expression. In short, persons familiar with
the history of the jilace may everywhere see that
Beormund's Ea still exists, but that it has been em-
banked and drained — that it has grown populous,
busy, commercial. Its manufacturing prosperity,
however, strikingly contrasts with the general aspect
of Bermondsey. Its streets generally are but
dreary-looking places, where, with the exception of
a picturesque old tenement, projecting its storey
beyond storey regularly upwards, and fast ' nodding
to its fill!,' or the name of a street suggestive of
some agreeable reflections, there is little to gratify
the delicate eye. . . . Noble arches here and
there bestride the streets of Bermondsey, bearing
up a railway, witii its engines pulhng like so many
overworked giants, and its rapid trains of passengers;
an elegant free school enriches one part, and a
picturesque church another ; but they all serve by

EemiDndsey.]

ST. OLAVE.

contrast to show more vividly the unpleasant features
of the neighbourhood, and, whilst they cannot but
command the spectator's admiration, make him at
the same time wonder how they got there. The
answer is at hand. There is great industry in Ber-
mondsey, and the wretchedness is more on the
surface than in the depth of this quarter of the
town." Both here, and also in the adjoining
parish of Rotherhithe, extensive manufactures are
cnrricd on : in Bermondsey the tanners and rope-
makers abound ; at Rotherhithe, timber merchants,
sawyers, and boat-builders. It would not, perhaps,
be far from the truth to say that Bermondsey may
be regarded not only as a region of manufactures,
but as a region of market gardens, as a region of
wholesale dealers, or as a maritime region, ac-
cording to the quarter where we take our stand.

Running east and west through the parish,
parallel with the river Thames, and by Dockhead,
winding its way towards Rotherhithe and Green-
wich, is Tooley Street, a narrow and winding
thoroughfare, which in some parts still bears many
traces of its antiquity. One would have much
liked, out of sheer malice, to be here to see the
little gossiping Secretary of the Admiralty, Samuel
Pepys, and his friend and patron, Lord Sandwich,
lloundering about in these parts in January, 1665-6,
when, owing to the bad weather, they could not
find a boat to convey them by water, and in con-
sequence they were forced to walk. " Lord ! what
a dirty walk we had, and so strong the wind, that
in the fields we many times could not carry our
bodies against it, but were driven backwards. It
was dangerous to walk the streets, the bricks and
tiles falling from the houses, so that the whole

streets were covered with them We

could see no boats in the Thames afloat but what
were broke loose and carried through the bridge, it
being ebbing water. And the greatest sight of all
was among other parcels of ships driven hither and
thither in clusters together, one was quite overset,
and lay with her masts all along in the water, and
her keel above water." The desolation and wintry
chilliness of this picture is enough to make us
shiver even in the dog-days.

Passing onward on our journey from the foot of
London Bridge, down the steep incline of Duke
Street, which bounds the north side of the ap-
proach to the railway station, we find ourselves
in Tooley Street, whose name, we are told, is a
strange corruption of the former appellation, St.
Olave's Street, and whose shops exhibit a singular
mi.\ture of the features which are found separate
in other parts of the district — wharfingers, mer-
chants, salesmen, factors, and agents ; outfitters,

biscuit-bakers, store-shippers, ship-chandlers, slop-
sellers, block-makers, and rope-makers ; engineers,
and others, together with the usual varieties of
retail tradesmen — all point to the diversified, and
no less busy than diversified, traffic of this street.
"Here," it has been said truly, "the crane and
the pulley seem never to be idle."

The parish of St. Olave is bounded on the north
by the river Thames, whence it extends in an
irregular line towards the Dover Road, separat-
ing Bermondsey from Rotherhithe and Deptford
parishes ; it enters Bermondsey Street by Snow's
Fields, and proceeds thence to St. Saviour's (once
called Savory) Dock. St. Olave's, like many other
parishes in the suburbs of London, having been
greatly increased in the number of its inhabitants,
in 1732 one of the fifty new churches provided by
the Act of Queen Anne was built for the district of
Horselydown, which was made a separate parish
by an Act of Parliament passed in the following
year, and to which was given the name of St.
John.

The parish church of St. Olave stands on the
north side of Tooley Street, near its western end ;
and with the exception of the south side, is con-
cealed from public observation. St. Olave, or
Olaf, in whose honour it is dedicated, was the son
of Herald, Prince of Westford, in Norway, in which
country he was celebrated for having expelled the
Swedes, and for recovering Gothland. After per-
forming these exploits he came to England, and
remaining here for three years as the ally of Ethelred,
he expelled the Danes from several English cities,
towns, and fortresses, and returned home laden
with great spoils. He was recalled to England by
Emma of Normandy, the surviving queen of his
friend, in order to assist her against Knute ; but
finding that a treaty had been made between that
king and the English, he withdrew, and was created
king of Norway by the voice of the nation. To
strengthen his throne, he married the daughter of
the king of Sweden ; but his zeal for the Christian
faith caused him to be much troubled by domestic
wars, as well as by the Danes abroad ; yet these
he regarded not, as he plainly declared that he
would rather lose his life and his kingdom than liis
faith in Christ. Upon this, the men of Norway
complained to Knute, king of Denmark, and after-
wards of England, charging Olaf with altering their
laws and customs ; and he was murdered by a
body of traitors and rebels near Drontheim, about
A.D. 1029. The Bishop of Drontheim, whom he
had taken with him across the sea from England in
order to assist him in establishing the Christian
faith in Norway, commanded that |4^di3c^ be ,.„via

^"•^ SANTA BARBARA

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tBermondsCy.

honoured as a martyr, and invoked as a saint.
He was buried at Drontheim, where his body was
found uncorrupted in 1541, when the Lutherans
plundered his shrine of its gold and jewels, for it
was reckoned the greatest treasure of the Church
in the north. His feast is commemorated on the
29th of July. Such was St. Olaf, to whose memory
no less than four churches were built in London,
and rightly so, for, says Newcourt, "he had well

Southwark, standing upon the river Thames be-
tween the Bregge house (Bridge-house) and the
Church of St. Clave." A still fuller account of
St. Olave will be found in the " Acta Sanctorum "
of the Bollandists.

In 1736, part of the old church having fallen
down, and the rest being in an unsafe condition,
owing to the graves having been dug too near the
foundation, the parishioners applied to Parliament

ST. olave's church, in 1820.

deserved, and was well beloved by our English
nation, as well for his friendship in assisting them
against the Danes, as for his holy and Christian
life."

In Alban Butler's " Lives of the Saints " will be
found several interesting particulars of the life of
this heroic and saintly prince. We meet with him
under a variety of names, as Anlaf, Unlaf, Olaf
Haraldson, Olaus, and Olaf Helge, or Olaf the
Holy. The antiquity of his church in Southwark
is proved by William Horn's " Chronicle of the
Acts of the Abbots of St. Austin's, Canterbury"
(printed in Roger Twisden's " Historijc Anglicanaj
Scriptores Decern "), who tells us that John, Rarl of
Warren, granted, about the year 1281, to Nicholas,
the then abbot, "all the estate which it held in

for power to rebuild it ; which being granted, they
were enabled to raise ^5,000 by granting annuities
for lives, not exceeding ,-/^40o on the whole ; for
payment of which a rate was to be made, not
exceeding 6d. in the pound, two-thirds to be paid
by the landlord, and one by the tenant, to cease
on the determination of the annuities. The new
church, constructed chiefly of Portland stone, was
completed in 1740. It has a nave, with side aisles,
and a square tower, which was originally designed
to be surmounted by a spire. In 1843 this church
had a narrow escape from total destruction by
fire. On the 19th of August in that year, a con-
flagration broke out on tlie premises of an oilman,
near the entrance of To])ping's wharf (which is
close by the church), which was totally destroyed,

104

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Eermondsey.

with a sacrifice of property to the amount of
^10,000. The fire consumed the shot tower, then
lately used as Watson's Telegraph, as stated at the
close of the last chapter, and afterwards caught
the roof of St. Olave's Church. The flames spread
rapidly, and the interior of the structure, with all
the bells, was destroyed, little more than the tower j
and the bare walls remaining. Fortunately, the 1
church was insured, and was speedily rebuilt.

The plan of the body of this church is a parallelo- ;
gram, divided into nave and aisles. The columns,
which separate these three compartments from each j
other, are fluted, of the Ionic order, with sculptured
capitals, in each range four in number. Against
the eastern and western walls are also four pilasters,
corresponding with the columns. The nave is
prolonged eastwardly by a semi-circular apse, con-
taining the altar. Over the entire nave extends
a beautiful and highly-finished groined ceiling of
five divisions ; in the perpendicular side of each
compartment of the groining is a semi-circular
headed window. The ceiling of the altar-apse is a
semi-dome, forming a rich piece of gilt coffered
work. The east window is of stained glass, with a
central representation, in an oval, of the Lord's
Supper, after Carlo Dolce. At the west end of the
church is a large and handsome organ, remarkable
for the richness of its tone. Designed by the
late Dr. Gauntlett, organist of St. Olave's, it
was erected at an expense of ^800 ; it was com-
menced in 1S44, by Mr. Lincoln, and completed
in 1846, by Messrs. Hill and Co., the builders of
the great organs in York Minster, Worcester
Cathedral, &c.

Eastward from the church is — or was till lately —
a quay, which in the year 1330, by the licence of
Simon Swanland, mayor of London, was built by
Isabel, widow of Hammond Goodchepe. Adjoin-
ing this quay was "a great house of stone and
timber, belonging to the Abbot of St. Augustine,
Canterbury, which was an ancient piece of work,
seeming to be one of the first builded houses on
that side of the river over against the city. It
was called the Abbot's Inn of St. Augustine, in
oouthwark, and was held of the Earls of Warren
and Surrey, as appears by a deed made in 1281.
The house afterwards belonged to Sir Anthony St.
Lcger, then to Warnham St Leger, and is now,"
says Stow, "called St. Leger House, and divided
into many apartments." A wharf on the site keeps
in remembrance the name of this knightly family,
although by the process of time it has become
corrupted into Seliinger's Wharf.

Tile Abbot of Battle, an important personage as
tliC superior of the monast'jry erected on the spot

where the fate of Saxon England was decided, and
especially patronised by the Conqueror, had a fine
residence near the same spot, with well laid-out
gardens, as an agreeable change from the natural
beauties of hilly, leafy Sussex, adorned with par-
terres in Norman fashion, with a fish-pond and a
curiously-contrived maze. The abbot has gone,
and the palace and gardens are gone too ; and
Londoners of the nineteenth century htirry through
Maze Pond, at the back of Guy's Hospital, little
thinking whence the dirty street derived its name.
The " Maze " — now an assemblage of small streets
on the south side of the London Bridge Railway
Station — is stated by Mr. Charles Knight in his
"London," to have "once been the garden at-
tached to the manor-house, or ' inn,' of the abbots of
Battle, the house itself having stood on the north
side of Tooley Street, in what is now called Mill
Lane, which leads down to Battlebridge Stairs."
Aubrey, in his "Anecdotes and Traditions," says,
"At Southwark was a maze, which is now con-
verted into buildings bearing that name ; " but
Peter Cunningham in his " Handbook of London,"
says that Maze Pond is so called from the " Manor
of Maze," which formerly existed here.

Opposite St. Olave's Church, in Tooley Street,
and adjoining Church Alley, which has become
absorbed in the Brighton and South-Eastem Rail-
way terminus, says Allen in his " History of Surrey,"
" formerly stood a spacious stone building, the
city residence of the Priors of Lewes, in Sussex,
whenever occasion led them to visit London or
its vicinity on parliamentary or ecclesiastical duty."
Strype, noticing St. Olave's Church, says, " On
the south side of the street was sometime one
great house, builded of stone, with arched gates,
which pertained to the Prior of Lewes, in Sussex,
and was his residence when he came to London ;
it is now a common hostelry for travellers, and
hath a sign of the ' Walnut-Tree.' " In Maitland's
time it became converted into a cider-cellar, and
is described as follows : — " Opposite St. Olave's
Church recently stood a spacious stone building,
the city mansion of the Prior of Lewes, in Sussex ;
the chapel of which, consisting of two aisles, being
still remaining at the upper end of W'alnut-lree
Alley ; it is converted into a cider-cellar or ware-
house, and by the earth's being greatly raised in
this neighbourhood it is at present underground ;
and the Gothic building, a little westward of the
same (at present a wine-vault belonging to the
'King's Head' Tavern), under the school-house,
a small chapel, I take to have been part of the
said mansion-house. Tlicrc are," continues Allen,
" two entrances to the crypt in Wiiitc Horse Court,

Bermondsey."]

ST. OLAVE'S GRAMMAR SCHOOL.

i°5

leading from Tooley House to Southwark House,
formerly the 'King's Head' Tavern, and prior to
that the sign of the 'Walnut-Tree.' Entering by
the north entrance, it is seven feet six inches long
by six feet wide, which leads to a large semi-
circular arched vault, thirty-nine feet three inches
long, by eighteen feet wide ; on one side is a well
from which water is at present conveyed to the
houses above. Towards the farther end is a door-
way, leading to another semi-circular vaulted arch,
thirty-one feet long, by thirteen feet ten inches wide;
from this is a passage seven feet by six feet, which
leads to the principal apartment of this ancient
building, the whole length of which is forty feet six
inches by sixteen feet six inches in width. At the
farther end are two windows. This ancient apart-
ment consists of four groined arches, supported
on dwarf columns. From this is an entrance to
another vault of various dimensions, but the length
is twenty-seven feet four inches. Part of this vault
is arched as the former, and part groined, over
which the stairs leading to the grammar-school
are erected." All this, however, has now been
removed, but is recorded here for the benefit of
future antiquaries.

The school here referred to was originally styled
the " Free Grammar School of Queen Elizabeth,
in the parish of St. Olave's," that queen having
incorporated sixteen of the parishioners to be the
governors. The school was founded in 1561
for " instructing the boys of the parish in English
grammar and writing." In 1674, Charles II.,
" for the better education of the rich as well as of
the poor," granted a further charter, enabling them
(the governors) to hold revenues to the amount of
;^5oo a year, which were to be applied " in main-
tenance of the schoolmaster, ushers, the house
and possessions, the maintenance and education
of two scholars at the university (not confining
it to either Oxford or Cambridge), for setting
forth poor scholars apprentices, for the relief of
poor impotent persons of the parish, maintaining
a workhouse, and to other purposes." By order
of the vestry of St. Olave's parish, the vestry-hall
was fitted up for the purposes of the school, which
was kept there until the year 1829, soon after
which period the building was pulled down for
forming the approaches to new London Bridge.
After a succession of changes, the London and
Greenwich Railway Company provided a piece
of ground in Bermondsey Street on which a new
school-house was erected. This building, which
was completed in 1835, was in the Tudor style
of architecture ; it was constructed of red brick
with stone dressings, and formed two sides of

a quadrangle, which was cut diagonally by the
roadway. In the centre of the building was an
octagonal tower, containing, on the ground-floor,
a porch open on three sides, and leading to a
corridor of general communication. On one side
of this octagonal tower were the school-rooms,
large and well-lighted apartments, and on the
other side were the head-master's house, and also
the court-room in which the governors met to
transact business, and which also served as the
school library. The building is said to have been
highly creditable to all concerned in its erection ;
but it was unfortunate with regard to its situation.
It could be seen, and then to great disadvantage,
only from the school-yard, or from the railway,
which intersected the school-yard diagonally, at a
height of about twenty feet above the level of
the ground. The entrance to the school was from
Bermondsey Street, through one of the arches of
the railway. The location of the school in this
spot was not destined to be of long duration ; for
on the widening of the railway, in consequence of
the formation of the South-Eastern and London
and Brighton Railways, its site was wanted, and
the school was once more transferred farther east-
ward, at the end of Tooley Street, where we shall
have more to say of it when speaking of the new
building.

We have already, in our notice of the High
Street, Southwark, spoken of the Mint which was
established there by Henry VIII. ; but it appears
that there was a Mint on this side of the river as
far back as the Saxon times. It is supposed to
have occupied the spot where afterwards was the
house of the Prior of Lewes, and under the Norman
kings there was a Mint nearly on the same spot.

The wharves and buildings near St. Olave's
Church have been the scene of some extensive
conflagrations. One of these took place in 1836,
when Fenning's Wharf was consumed. Another
fire broke out on the same spot on the 19th of
August, 1843, ^nd during the time it raged several
of the buildings in its vicinity were almost totally
destroyed. Among these, as we have previously
stated, were St. Olave's Church, Topping's Wharf,
Watson's telegraph, and other adjacent buildings.
It was stated at the time that the church might have
been saved, but Mr. Braidwood, the superintendent
of the London Fire Brigade, considered it advisable
to direct his attention to preventing the fire reach-
ing the valuable surrounding property, amounting
to upwards of ^500,000 in value. A few years
later, on the 22nd of June, 1S61, a most destruc-
tive fire, said to have been caused by spontaneou.s
combustion, broke out at Cotton's Wharf, Tooley

io6

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Bermondsey.

Street, a little to the east of St. Olave's Church,
and continued smouldering for several days. In
his endeavours to check the ravages of this fire,
Mr. Braidwood lost his life. He was buried, as
we have already seen, at Abney Park Cemetery,
and a tablet has been inserted in the wall near the
entrance to the wharf to mark the spot where he
fell. The damage caused by this fire amounted to
;^ 2,000,000. In some of these conflagrations, con-
siderable damage has been done to the shipping
on the river, by the burning oil and pitch over-
spreading the surface of the river. In the " Cyclo-
paedia of Insurance," we read that in July, 1731, a
large number of vessels were burnt on the Thames
' through the overturning of a pot of boiling pitch !
Verily there is, after all, some truth in the old
saying about " setting the Thames on fire."

To return to Mill Lane, we may add that there
is an inn here called the " Red Lion and Key,"
no doubt a corruption of the "Red Lion on
the Quay."

The Borough Compter, formerly situated in this
lane, was one of the prisons visited and described
by John Howard. He pictures it as in a deplor-
able condition, " out of repair and ruinous, without
an infirmary and even without bedding ; while most
of the inmates were poor creatures from the ' Court
of Conscience,' who lay there till their debts were
paid." The Compter was removed hither from St.
Margaret's Hill, as stated in a previous chapter.*
Till a comparatively recent period (1806), prisoners
accused of felonies were here detained, and debtors
were imprisoned here. If they could pay sixpence
a day, they could have the luxury of a room eight
feet square. They were allowed a twopenny loaf
a day, but neither straw for bedding, fire, medical or
religious attention ; and a man might be imprisoned
on this regimen for a debt of a guinea for forty
days without being able to change his clothes or
wash his face or hands during the period of his
imprisonment. This miserable state of things was
strongly represented to the Lord Mayor in 1804,
but no answer was received to the expostulation.

In a narrow turning out of Tooley Street, near
the back of Guy's Hospital, is a small inn, much
frequented by seafaring persons, called the "Ship
and Sliovcl." The sign may allude to the shovels
used in taking out ballast, or cargoes in bulk, or
it may refer to the gallant but unfortunate Sir
Cloudesley Shovel, whose wreck and death at the
Scilly Islands we mentioned in our account of the
monuments in Westminster Abbey.t

In Carter Lane, a turning out of Tooley Street,

• See ante, p 58.

t Sec Vol. Ill ,p 430.

near St. Olave's Church, stood, till 1830, when it
was pulled down to make room for the approaches
of the new London Bridge, the meeting-house of
the Baptist congregation under the pastorate
successively of Dr. Gill and Dr. Rippon. This
chapel, an ugly structure, erected in 1757, deserves
mention here from the fact that the congregations
assembling successively within its walls during
several generations, after migrating to New Park
Street, are now located at Newington, in the
Tabernacle built for the late Mr. Spurgeon. The
connection of this body with Carter Lane dates
back to the time of the Commonwealth. Benjamin
Keach, author of some controversial works, was
the minister from 1668 to 1704. In his time the
congregation met in a small chapel in Goat's Yard
Passage, Horselydown. It must not be overlooked
that two centuries back Dissenting congregations
did not aim at attracting notice either in the archi-
tectural details of their chapels, or by placing them
in conspicuous places, as we see in modem times.
This fact will explain the circumstance that Dis-
senting meeting-houses were formerly to be met
with in back streets and courts. Dr. Gill's ministry
extended from 1720 to 1771 ; and he in turn was
succeeded in 1773 by Dr. Rippon, whose pastorate
extended to 1836, so that in the long period ot
116 years, the congregation and their successors
had but two ministers. Dr. Gill was one of the
most learned men whom his denomination ever
produced, and some account of him may be given
here. He was bom at Kettering, in Northampton-
shire, in 1697. He was educated at the grammar-
school of his native town, and at an early age was
famed for his acquaintance with the classic writers.
His zeal for knowledge was so great that he was
accustomed to spend a few hours every week in
the shop of a bookseller in Kettering on market
days, when only it was opened, and there he first
saw the learned works of various writers in Biblical
lore, in which he afterwards became so greatly dis-
tinguished. So constant was his attendance at this
shop, that the market people, speaking proverbially,
were wont to say, "As surely as Gill is in the
bookseller's shop." An attempt on the part of the
schoolmaster to enforce on Gill a regular attend-
ance at the jiarish church led to his withdrawal
from the school. With a view to enable him to
enter the Nonconformist ministry, application was
made for his admission into the Mile End Academy,
but his precocity in learning seemed to the prin-
cipals of that institution a sufficient bar to his
reception by them. He was now compelled to
work at the loom, but found time to study the
Greek Testament, and to obtain a little insight

Bermondsey.]

DR. GILL.

107

into Hebrew. Becoming a preachei- of his own
denomination in his native county, his fame as a
scholar in due time led to an invitation to come
to London to supply the pulpit at Goat's Yard,
then vacant by the death of Mr. Benjamin Stinton,
the son-in-law of Keach. Soon after his arrival in
London, Gill became acquainted with Mr. John
Skepp, a Hebrew scholar, and minister of a congre-
gation in Cripplegate. At Skepp's death, many of
his books in divinity and Rabbinical literature
were purchased by Gill, to whom they proved a
valuable acquisition. He was soon able to read
the Talmud and the Targums in the original, as
well as the ancient commentators thereon. Even
amidst these severe studies, he still found time to
study the Fathers of the Church; and the fruits
of these labours soon began to appear in the
learned works he subsequently published. In
1745 he issued proposals for printing an "Expo-
sition of the Whole New Testament," in three folio
volumes, which was completed in 1748. For this
undertaking Gill received the degree of Doctor
of Divinity from Marischal College, Aberdeen.
When his friends congratulated him on this token
of respect, he remarked, " I neither thought it, nor
bought, nor sought it." Between 1746 and 1760
he published " An Exposition of the Old and New
Testament," in nine volumes, which Robert Hall
considered to be " a continent of mud," while John
Ryland characterised it as " an ocean of divinity."
He also published "A Body of Divinity," "The
Cause of God and Truth," and other learned works.
He was at times keenly engaged in controversy,
and contended in turn with Whitby, Wesley, and
other opponents of the Calvinistic school of
theology. How he managed to prepare for pub-
lication such an array of learned literary matter
surprised many of his friends. He was accustomed
to rise as soon as it was light in the winter, and
usually before six in the summer ; and by this
disposal of his time, to say nothing of the duties of
his pastorate, and the frequent demands on the
preaching services of such an eminent scholar, he
was able to send forth to the world some ponderous
tomes, the preparation of which, and their subse-
quent correction for the press, must have been no
ordinary undertaking. It is stated that although
his folio volumes would be sufficient to fill 10,000
printed quarto pages, he never employed an
amanuensis in preparing his copy for the press. He
died at Camberwell on the 4th of October, 1771.
As a proof that "relics" are still held in honour
among Protestants, it may be added that the pulpit
in which Dr. Gill preached is now used by the
students in the college attached to the Metro-

politan Tabernacle ; and the chair once used by
the doctor in his study was transferred to the
vestry of the Metropolitan Tabernacle.

Among the anecdotes related of Dr. Gill, one
may be given, as it throws some light upon tlie
"service of song" a century or more back. In
his days the psalmody in many of the Dissenting
Chapels was at the lowest possible ebb, and the
stock of hymn-tunes possessed by Dr. Gill's clerk
must have been very small ; for on one occasion
an aged dame waited on the doctor to complain
that the clerk, in about three years, had introduced
two new tunes. Not that he was a famous singer,
or able to conduct a great variety of song, but
he did his best. The young people of the con-
gregation, naturally enough, were pleased with
the new tunes ; but the good woman could not
bear the innovation. The doctor, after patiently
listening, asked her whether she understood sing-
ing. " No," she rephed. " What ! can't you
sing?" She confessed that she was no singer,
nor her aged father before her; and though they
had had about a hundred years between them
to learn the Old Hundredth, they were not able to
sing it nor any other tune. The doctor did not
hurt her feelings by telling her that people who
did not understand singing were the last who
ought to complain ; but he meekly said, " Sister,
what tunes should you like us to sing?" " Wh)^,
sir," she replied, " I should very much like David's
tunes." " Well," said he, " if you will get David's
tunes for us, we can then try to sing them." It
need scarcely be added that in Dr. Gill's meeting-
house at Horselydown the duty of leading the
psalmody devolved on the clerk, whose salary, it
appears, was half the sum paid to the pew-opener,
or only forty shillings per annum !

Whiston, the translator of " Josephus," intended
to hear Dr. Gill preach, and would have done so
had he not learned the fact that the doctor had
written a volume on the Song of Solomon, which,
in Whiston's opinion, was erroneously included in
the canonical Scriptures. For this reason Whiston
declined to enter Gill's chapel.

Dr. Rippon, who succeeded Dr. Gill at Carter
Lane in 1773, and continued the minister of the
congregation after their removal to New Park
Street, died in 1836, in the eighty-fifth year of his
age, his pastorate having extended through the long
period of sixty-three years. His name does not
shine in the theological world with such splendour
as his predecessor's, neither was he to be compared
with Dr. Gill in classical and Oriental attain-
ments. He compiled a selection of hjinns for the
use of Dissenting congregations, by whom it was

io8

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tBermondsey.

extensively used as a supplement to Dr. Watts's
hymn-book. Besides editing "The Baptist Annual
Register," he projected, in 1803, a " History of
Bunhill Fields," in six volumes, which did not
meet with sufficient encouragement to enable him
to carry out the intention, although ten years had
been occupied in the preparation of the materials
for the undertaking. In his time the singing had
improved considerably, for a tune-book once used
in many Dissenting congregations bears his name.

An anecdote, which gives us an insight into the
character of Dr. Rippon, has been related of hira.
On a special occasion he was deputed to read an
address from the Dissenters to George IIL, con-
gratulating him on his recovery from sickness.
The doctor read on with his usual clear utterance
till he came to a passage in which there was a
special reference to the goodness of God, when
he paused and said, "Please your majesty, we
will read that again," and then proceeded with his
usual cool dignity to repeat the sentence with
emphasis. No other man in the denomination
would have thought of doing such a thing ; but
from Rippon it came so naturally that no one cen-
sured him, or if they did, it would have had no
effect upon him.

"Tooley Street," says Peter Cunningham, "will
long continue to be famous from the well-known
story related by Canning of ' The Three Tailors of
Tooley Street,' who formed a meeting for redress
of popular grievances, and though no more than
three in number, began their petition to the House
of Commons with the somewhat grand opening of
' IVe, the people of England ! ' "

The name of Tooley Street has not always been
spelt in the same way. For instance, to a notice
put forth in Cromwell's time by Thomas Garway,
the founder of Garraway's Coffee-house, in the City,
are appended the following words:* — "Advertise-
ment. That Nicholas Brook, living at the sign of
the ' Frying-pan,' in St. Tulie's Street, against the
Church, is the only known man for making of
Mills for grinding of Coffee powder, which Mills
are by him sold from 40 to 45 shillings the Mill."

On the south side, near the middle of the street,
according to the " New View of London," pub-
lished in the reign of Queen Anne, was a place
called the " Isle of Ducks ; " but little or nothing
is now known either of its history, or of its exact
situation.

The streets branching off on the south side of
Tooley Street, especially those near the western
end, such as Joiners' Street, Weston Street, Dean

* Sec " Ellii'i LeUen" (Second Serieii)> vol. iv.

Street, and Bermondsey Street (which, Northouck
says, is corruptly called Barnaby Street), pass im-
mediately under the railway station, and therefore
appear like so many underground tunnels, in which
long rows of gas-lamps are continually burning.
In spite of this light, however, they are unknown
to history.

John Street, Webbe Street, and Weston Street,
all modern thoroughfares in the neighbourhood of
the Maze Pond, keep in remembrance the names
of the late Mr. John Webbe Weston, who owned
much of the land hereabouts. Winding south-west-
wards across some of these streets from the eastern
end of St. Thomas's Street, are Snow's Fields,
which have now anything but a verdant aspect.
" Moor Fields are fields no more ! " It is true
that from this thoroughfare — for it is nothing more
nor less than a narrow street — a glimpse is caught
of some green and flourishing foliage in the rear of
Guy's Hospital ; but all traces of garden grounds
are fast disappearing. John Timbs has a word or
two to say about this spot in his " Autobio-
graphy." Speaking of his boyhood, he observes :
" The love of gardening and raising flowers has
ever been with me a favourite pursuit. Even in
that sooty suburb in Southwark, Snow's Fields, at
a very early age, I had the range of a large
garden, and a plot set apart for my special culture.
But I had fancied failures :

' Oh ! ever thus from cliildliood's liour
I've seen my fondest hopes decay ;
I never loved a tree or flower
But 'twas the first to fade away.'

Still, what I attributed to fate was, in most cases,
traceable to the poisonous atmosphere of the
manufacturing suburb."

"There was a time," says Mr. Charles Knight,
in his "London," "when the manufacture of hats
formed one of tlie characteristics of this neighbour-
hood ; but this branch of manufacture, from some
cause with which we are not well acquainted, has
suffered a curious migration. At about the end of
tlie last century and the beginning of the present,
the ' Maze ' (a district between Bermondsey Street
and the Borough High Street), Tooley Street, the
northern end of Bermondsey Street, and other
streets in the immediate vicinity, formed the grand
centre of the hat manufacture of London ; but
since then some commercial motive-power has
e.xerted a leverage which has transferred nearly the
whole assemblage farther westward. If we wish to
find the centre of this manufacture, with its sub-
ordinate branches of hat-block makers, hat-dyers,
hat-lining and leather cutters, hat shag-makers,
hat-tip makers, hat-bowstring makers, hat-furriers,

I
I

Bermandsey.]

HORSRLYDOWN.

109

hat-trimming makers, &c., we must visit the dis-
trict included between the Borough High Street
and Blackfriars Road. A glance at that curious
record of statistical facts, a ' London Directory,'
will show to what an extent this manufacture is
carried on in the district just marked out. It is
true that Bermondsey still contains one hat-factory,
which has been characterised as the largest in
the world, and that Tooley Street still exhibits a

and, agreeably to an Act of the 6th Geo. II.,
1733' "the district of Horsey-down, Horsa-down,
or Horsley-down (so called from its having been
used by the inhabitants as a grazing-field for their
horses and cattle), was appointed for the new
parish." Elmes observes, very absurdly: "Pop'ilar
legends derive its name from a belief that t.ie
horse of King John lay down with that monarch
upon his back, and hence horse-lye- down ; but as

.^;:d.siif3-^S«I

'miL'\

MILL POND BRIDGE, IN 1826.

sprinking of smaller firms ; but the manufacture is
no longer a feature to be numbered among the
peculiarities of Bermondsey."

Passing from Snow's Fields, under the railway
arches, by way of Crucifix Lane, a name which
savours of "the olden time," we enter Artillery
Street, Horselydown, or, as it was formerly called.
Horsey Down. The parish of St. Olave's having
greatly increased both in liouses and population,
the commissioners for erecting fifty new churches
within the "bills of mortality" purchased a site
for a church and cemeteiy, consisting of a field,
which was walled in and called the "Artillery
Ground," from the fact that the train-bands of
Southwark used to practise therein. The church
was accordingly built, and dedicated to St. John,
260

the entire tract so called was, according to Stow,
a grazing-ground, called Horse-down, it is more
probably a corruption of that title." In speaking
of the derivation of the name of Horselydown, the
author of "A New View of London" (1708),
remarks : " This street, as I was told by a sobel
counsellor at law, who said he had it from an old
record, was so called for that the water, formerly
overflowing it, was so effectually drawn off that
the place became a green field, where horses and
other cattle used to pasture and lye down before
the street was built." Near it, as we further
learn from the same work, was Horselydown Fair
Street, described as a considerable street, between
Paris Street, Tooley Street, and Five Foot Lane,
Southwark.

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Bermondsey,

Thomas Guy, the founder of the famous hospital
bearing his name, was born in this street. His
birthplace is thus accurately fixed by Maitland : —
"He (Guy) was born in the north-east corner
house of Pritchard's Alley (two doors east of St.
John's Churchyard), in Fair Street, Horsleydown."
"Amidst the changes of old London," says Charles
Knight, in his " Shadows of the Old Booksellers,"
" Fair Street still exists, and has a due place in the
Post Office Guide to principal streets and places.
It is at the eastern extremity of Tooley Street,
where Horselydown begins, and at a short distance
from the Thames. The Down, where horses once
grazed, and where probably the child Thomas
Guy once played, is now built over. The father
of this boy was a lighterman and coal-dealer, and
it is most likely that the young son of a man so
occupied would be familiar with the locality be-
tween Horselydown and London Bridge. One
building seems to have lived in his memory in
connection with early associations. St. Thomas's
Hospital, an old almonr)', had been bought by the
citizens of London, at the dissolution of the reli-
gious houses, as a place of reception for diseased
people. It was fast falling into decay when Thomas
Guy looked upon it in his boyhood."

The church, dedicated to St. John the Evan-
gelist, was finished in 1732; it is a plain stone
building, lighted by two ranges of windows, and
has an apsidal termination at the eastern end.
The square tower, containing ten bells, is sur-
mounted with a spire in the form of a fluted Ionic
pillar. The church is seen to the northward from
the London and Greenwich Railway.

In Goat's Yard, Horselydown, was the meeting-
house of the celebrated Benjamin Keach, who,
from 1668 to 1704, was the minister of a Non-
conformist congregation assembling there, one of
the oldest of such congregations in Southwark and
Bermondsey, and the precursor of the congrega-
tion now assembling in the Metropolitan Taber-
nacle. For very excellent reasons, the Dissenters
of those stirring times in English history were not
anxious to attract notice in the style of architecture
of their meeting-houses, nor did tliey erect tliem
in conspicuous situations, for during the reign of
Charles II. they almost met by stealth, much in llie
same way as the Roman Catholics were wont to do
a century or so later. When Charles II. issued his
declaration of indulgence in 1672, Kcach, among
others, took advantage of it, and his congregation
erected their first meeting-house in Goat's Yard.
This chapel no longer exists, for a century later,
the lease having nm out, it became a cooperage,
and afterwards a blacksmitli's forge. In front of

the chapel was a court, bounded by a brick wall,
and a peep through the iron gates would have
shown an avenue of limes leading to the principal
entrance. It must have been thought a building
of some magnitude at that epoch, seeing that it
accommodated as many as 1,000 persons. One
curious fact connected with Reach's chapel may
here be mentioned, as it throws some light upon
the manners and customs of two centuries ago.
In many of the Dissenting chapels of the times of
the later Stuarts there was no singing — not, as
some persons have erroneously supposed, lest their
sounds might be heard by their enemies ; but from
the idea that only the really spiritual persons ought
to sing, and not the unconverted. There was a
great controversy about this question among the
Nonconformists, and many pamphlets were written
on both sides of the question. Keach contended
that all the congregation ought to sing, and he
fought zealously for this practice for many years,
and lived to see his ideas make way. At one time
there was a sort of drawn battle between Keach
and some of his people, and an understanding was
at length come to that at one period of the service,
during the psalmody, those who objected to the
singing should leave the chapel and walk about the
chapel-yard, among the graves of the silent dead,
and then come in again after what they objected to
was over ! Keach was the author of " An Exposi-
tion of the Parables," " A Key to open Scripture
Metaphors," and some controversial pamphlets.
At one time he found it necessary to reply to some
persons who had contrived to unsettle the minds
of the young people and apprentices of the con-
gregation, by arguing that Saturday was the true
Sabbath. For the publication of a series of dis-
courses on this subject, under tlie title of "The
Jewish Sabbath Abrogated," in which lie treated the
subject controversially, Keach was complimented
by the Archbishop of Canterbury. The death of
Keach was thus celebrated by one of his congrega-
tion in the following lines : —

" Is he no more? has Heaven withdrawn his light,
Anil left us to lament, in sable shades of night.
Our loss?

Death boasts his triimiph ; for the nnnoiir's spread
Tlirc)Uf;h Salem's plains, that Keach, dear Keach, is
dead."

Southwark, as is gcncr.illy known, was a famous
rendezvous of the Nonconformists two centuries
ago, and such it has continued to be down to our
own day. In the time of Charles II., and even
earlier, the Anabaptists were accustomed to practise
immersion in tlic river, and at that date several
quiet spots existed on the banks of the Thames,

Bermondsey.]

QUEEN" ELIZABETH'S GRAMMAR SCHOOL

iir

not far eastward from London Bridge, suitable for
that purpose. But the increase of dwellings in
the neighbourhood of the river soon rendered this
practice impossible. A building for this particular
object, Mr. Pike tells us, e.xisted in Horselydown in
the seventeenth century. It was called the Bap-
tisterion, and attached to it were dressing-rooms.
It was the common place of adult immersion for
southern London. A conference, which assembled
in 17 17, provided funds for the rebuilding of the
structure. The chapel never appears to have had
any regular congregation associated with it, but
elderly persons were living at the commencement
of the present century who remembered the place
being used as a preaching station. The passage
leading to the meeting-house was called " Dipping
Alley."

Near the north-east corner of St. John's church-
yard, and at the eastern end of Tooley Street,
stands the new Free Grammar School of the united
parishes of St. Olave's and St. John's, of which we
have spoken above. The building, like its prede-
cessor in Bermondsey Street, is in the Tudor style
of architecture, and is altogether an ornament to
the neighbourhood. It comprises a residence for
the master and the usual school buildings ; but the
chief architectural feature is the central tower, over
tiie doorway of which is a statue of the founder,
Queen Elizabeth.

"Early in the reign of Elizabeth," writes Mr.
Corner, in his account of the above seminary, in
the Gentleman's Magazine, January, 1836, "when
the foundation of public schools was promoted
throughout the country, under the authority of the
legislature and the patronage of the crown, the
parishioners of St. Saviour's, Southwark, set a noble
example to their neighbours in the establishment
of their admirable Free Grammar School ; and the
inhabitants of the parish of St. Olave were not slow
to follow so enlightened and benevolent a policy.
St. Olave's School was set on foot in the year 1560,
and constituted 'The Free Grammar School of
Queen Elizabeth of the Parishioners of the parish
of St. Olave, by letters patent issued in 157 1.'"

In this institution provision is made for a com-
mercial as well as a classical education. The
ancient seal of the school bears the date of r576.
It represents the master seated in the school-room,
with five boys standing near him. The rod is a
prominent object, as in other school seals, which
may be seen in Carlisle's "Grammar Schools,"
some of which are also inscribed with the well-
known maxim of King Solomon, then strictly
maintained, but now nearly exploded, " Qui parcit
virgam odit filium" ("He who spares the rod

spoils the child "). A fac-simile of the seal, in cast
iron or carved in stone, is placed in front of most
of the houses belonging to the school. Robert
Browne, a Puritan minister, and founder of the sect
of Brownists, was master of St. Olave's Grammar
School from 1586 till 1591.

The following particulars of this locality, of which
but scant notices are found in any local history or
topographical work, were given by the late Mr.
G. R. Comer, F.S.A., at a special general meeting
of the Surrey Archseological Society, held at St.
Olave's Branch School-house, in 1856. "It is
difficult," he said, " to imagine that a neighbour-
hood now so crowded with wharves and ware-
houses, granaries and factories, mills, breweries,
and places of business of all kinds, and where the
busy hum of men at work like bees in a hive is
incessant, can have been, not many centuries since,
a region of fields and meadows, pastures for sheep
and cattle, with pleasant houses and gardens, shady
lanes where lovers might wander (not unseen),
clear streams with stately swans, and cool walks by
the river-side. Yet such was the case ; and the
way from London Bridge to Horselydown was
occupied by the mansions of men of mark and
consequence, dignitaries of the Church, men of
military renown, and wealthy citizens. First, in
St. Olave's Street, opposite to the church, was the
London residence of the Priors of Lewes. Ad-
joining to the church, on the east side, where
Chamberlain's wharf now stands, was the house
of the Priors of St. Augustine at Canterbury ; next
to which was the Bridge House ; and a little
further eastward was the house of the Abbots of
Battle, in Sussex, vrith pleasant gardens and a clear
stream (now a black and foetid sewer), flowing
do^vn Mill Lane, and turning the abbot's mill at
Batde Bridge Stairs. On this stream were swans,
and it flowed under a bridge (over which the road
was continued to. Bermondsey and Horselydown),
from the Manor of the Maze, the seat of Sir
William Burcestre or Bourchier, who died there
in 1407, and Sir John Burcestre, who died there
in 1466, and was buried at St. Olave's ; and after-
wards of Sir Roger Copley. The site is now
known by the not very pleasant name of Maze
Pond. From the comer of Bermondsey Street to
Horselydown was fomierly called Horselydown
Lane ; and here, on the west side of Stoney Lane,
which was once a Roman road leading to the
trajcdus, or ferry over the river to the Tower
(as Stoney Street, in St. Saviour's, was a similar
Roman road leading to the ferry to Dowgate), was
the mansion of Sir John Fastolf, who fought at
Agincourt, and was Governor of Normandy. He

112

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

LBermondsey.

died at his castle of Caistor, in Norfolk, in 1460,
at the age of eighty-one years.

" During the insurrection of Jack Cade in 1450,
Sir John Fastolf furnished his place in Southwark
with the old soldiers of Normandy and habiliments
of war, to defend himself against the rebels ; but
having sent an emissary to them at Blackheath,
the man was taken prisoner, and narrowly escaped
execution as a spy. They brought him, however,
with them into Southwark, and sent him to Sir
John, whom he advised to put away all his habili-
ments of war and the old soldiers ; and so he did,
and went himself to the Tower, with all his house-
hold. He was, however, in danger from both
parties, for Jack Cade would have burned his
house, and he was likely to be impeached for
treason for retiring to the Tower, instead of resist-
ing and attacking the rebels, which probably he
had not force enough to attempt, as they had entire
possession of the Borough.

" Further east, and nearly opposite to the Tower
of London, was 'The Rosary.' This belonged to
the family of Dunlegh, who appear to have been
of some consequence in Southwark at an early
period. Richard Dunlegh was returned to the Par-
liament held at York, 26th Edward L, as one of the
representatives of the borough of Southwark, and
so was Henry !e Dunlegh to the Parliament held
at Lincoln, in the 28th of Edward L

" Still further eastward on the bank of the river
was the Liberty of St. John. The Prior of the
Hospital of St. John of Jerusalem held in the
reign of Edward L three water-mills, three acres of
land, one acre of meadow, and twenty acres of
pasture, at Horsedowne (sic) in Southwark, which
in the reign of Edward lU. Francis de Bachenie
held for the term of his life, on the demise of
brother Thomas le Archer, late Prior. Courts
were held for this manor down to a ])criod com-
paratively recent. Messrs. Courage's brewery
stands on the site of the mill and manor-house ;
and in a lease from Sir William Abdy to Mr.
Donaldson, dated in 1803, there was an excejjtion
of the hall of the mill-house, court-house, or manor-
house, to hold a Court once or oftener in every
year.

"At the time of the dissolution of the monas-
teries, St. John's mill was in the tenure of Hugh
Eglesfield, by virtue of a lease granted by the
Prior of St. John to Christopher Craven, for sixty
years, from Midsummer, 23rd Henry VHL, at the
yearly rent of ^8. It was sold by the king, in
his thirty-sixth year, to John Eyre. The estate
has for many years belonged to the fomily of Sir
William Abdy, Bart., having come to them from

the families of Gainsford and Thomas, whose
names are commemorated in Gainsford Street
and Thomas Street. Shad Thames is a narrow
street, running along the water-side, through the
ancient Liberty of St. John, from Pickle Herring
to Dockhead.

" Horselydown was a large field anciently used
by the neighbouring inhabitants for pasturing their
horses and cattle, and was called Horsedown or
Horseydown. It was part of the possessions of
the Abbey of Bermondsey, and is within the lord-
ship of the manor of Southwark, surrendered to
King Henry VIII. with the other possessions of
the abbey in 1537. This manor is now called
the Great Liberty Manor, and is one of the three
manors of Southwark belonging to the Corporation
of London, King Edward VI. having granted this
manor, with the manor or lordship of Southwark
(now called the King's Manor, and formerly
belonging to the see of Canterbury), to the City
of London, by charter of ist Edward VI. Horsey-
down was probably the common of the Great
Liberty Manor.

"After the surrender to Henry VIII., Horsey-
down became the property of Sir Roger Copley, of
Galton, Surrey, and the Maze, in Southwark, of
whom it was purchased by Adam Beeston, Henry
Goodyere, and Hugh Eglisfeilde, three inhabitants
of the parish of St. Olave, and was assured to them
by a fine levied to them by Sir Roger Copley and
Dame Elizabeth his wife, in ths reign of Henry
VIII. The parish of St. Olave came into posses-
sion of Horseydown in 1552, under a lease which
the same Hugh Eglisfeilde had purchased of one
Robert AVarren, and which the parish purchased of
him for ^^20 and twelve pence (the sum he had
paid to Warren for it), and the grazing of two kine
in Horsedown for his life. (Minutes of Vestry,
5 March, 1552.) . . . .

"The freehold of Horseydown having become
vested solely in Hugh Eglisfeild as the surviving
joint-tenant, it descended to his son Christopher
Eglisfeild, of Gray's Inn, gentleman, who by deed
dated 29th December, 1581, conveyed Horsey-
down to the governors of St. Olave's Grammar
School, to whom it still belongs ; and it is one of
the remarkable instances of the enormous increase
in tile value of property in the metropolis, that this
piece of land, which was then let to farm to one
Alderton, who collected the weekly payments for
pasturage, and paid for it a rental of ^^6 per
annum, now produces to the governors for the
use of the school an annual income exceeding
;^3.ooo."

It is not known whether Southwark Fair was

Bermondsey.]

JACOB'S ISLAND.

"3

ever held on " Horseydown ;" but it is worthy of
remark that when the down came to be built over,
about the middle of the seventeenth century, the
principal street across it, from west to east, was,
and is to the present day, called Fair Street ; and
a street of houses, running from north to south,
near to Dockhead, is called Three Oak Lane,
traditionally from three oaks formerly standing
there. In Evelyn's time, however ("Diary," 13th
September, 1660), the fair appears to have been
held at St. Margaret's Hill, in the Borough, as we
have already seen.*

The old Artillery Hall of the Southwark " Train-
bands " stood on the site of the present workhouse
in Parish Street, a little to the west of St. John's
Church. It was erected in the year 1639, when
the governors of the school granted a lease to
Cornelius Cooke and others, of a piece of ground
forming part of Horseydown, and enclosed with a
brick wall, to be employed for a Martial Yard, in
which the Artillery Hall was built. In 1665 the
governors granted the churchwardens a lease of
part of the Martial Yard for 500 years for a burial-
ground ; but they reserved all the ground whereon
the Artillery House then stood, and "all the
herbage of the ground, and also liberty for the
militia or trained bands of the borough of South-
wark, and also his Majesty's mihtary forces, to
muster and exercise arms upon the said ground."
The election for Southwark was held at the
Artillery Hall in 1680; and at the following
sessions — then held at the Bridge House — Slingsby
Bethell, Esq., sheriff of London, who had been a
losing candidate at the election, was indicted for
and convicted of an assault on Robert Mason, a
waterman, from Lambeth, who was standing on
the steps of the hall with others, and obstructing
Mr. Bethell's friends. Mr. Bethell was fined five
marks.

In the year 1725 the Artillery Hall was con-
verted by the governors into a workhouse for the
parish, and in 1736 the parish church of St. John,
Horselydown, as stated above, was built on part
of the martial ground. The hall was entirely
demolished about the year 1836. Messrs. Courage
and Donaldson's brewery, at the corner of Shad
Thames, stands, as we have already stated, on the
site of the manor-house of St. John of Jerusalem,
which formerly belonged to St. John's Hospital, in
Clerkenwell. This estate, and that of the gover-
nors of the Grammar School, and another estate
belonging to Magdalen College, Oxford, called the
Isle of Ducks, mentioned above, comprehend

* See ante, p. 58. ]

almost the whole of this parish. It has been
conjectured that the name of the street running
along the river-side, and from St. Saviour's Dock
to Dockhead, and called Shad Thames, may be
an abbreviation of "St. John-at-Thames." Shad
Thames, and, indeed, the whole river-side, con-
tain extensive granaries and storehouses for the
supply of the metropolis. Indeed, from Morgan's
Lane — a turning about the middle of Tooley
Street, on tlie north side, to St. Saviour's (once
called Savory) Dock, the whole line of street —
called in one part Pickle Herring Street, and in
another Shad Thames — exhibits an uninterrupted
series of wharves, warehouses, mills, and factories,
on both sides of the narrow and crowded roadway.
The buildings on the northern side are contiguous
to the river, and through gateways and openings in
these we witness the busy scenes and the mazes of
shipping which pertain to such a spot. The part
of Bermondsey upon which we are now entering is
as remarkable for its appearance as for its import-
ance, in past times at least, seeing that it was con-
nected with the manufactures of Bermondsey.

The waterside division of Bermondsey, or that
part of the parish situate east of St. Saviour's Dock,
and adjoining the parish of Rotherhithe, is inter-
sected by several streams or watercourses. Upon
the south bank of one of these, between Mill
Street and George Row, stand — or stood till very
recently^a number of very ancient houses, called
London Street. All Londoners have heard of the
" Rookery" — or, as it was more universally called,
the " Holy Land " — which formerly existed in St.
Giles's ; and of the " shy neighbourhood " of
Somers Town, which we have already described.t
Charles Dickens, in his " Uncommercial Traveller,"
speaks of another " shy neighbourhood " over the
Surrey side of London Bridge, "among the fast-
nesses of Jacob's Island and Dockhead." Little,
perhaps, was known of Jacob's Island, in Ber-
mondsey, until it was rendered familiar to the
public in the pages of one of Dickens's most
popular works, " Oliver Twist," where the features
which this spot presented a few years ago — and in
part exhibit at the present time — are described so
vividly, and with such close accuracy, that we
cannot do better than quote the passage. He
first speaks of the ditch itself and the houses
e.xterior to the island. " A stranger, standing on
one of the wooden bridges thrown across this ditch
in Mill Street, will see the inhabitants of the houses
on either side lowering, from their back doors and
windows, buckets, pails, and domestic utensils in

t See Vp' v., p. 368.

114

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Bermondscy.

which to haul the water up ; and when his eye is
turned from these operations to the houses them-
selves, his utmost astonishment will be excited by
the scene before him. Crazy wooden galleries,
common to the backs of half-a-dozen houses, with
holes from whence to look on the slime beneath ;
windows, broken and patched, with poles thrust
out on which to dry the linen that is never there ;
rooms so small, so filthy, so confined, that the air

Rough and wild as the spot appears when the
ditch is filled at high tide, yet, if we visit it six
hours afterwards, when mud usurps the place of
water, more than one organ of sense is strongly
and unpleasantly appealed to. Wilkinson gave a
view of this spot in the "Londinia lUustrata" in the
early part of the present century, and the interval
of time does not seem to have produced much
change in the appearance of the scene. In the

HALL OF THE SOUTHWAKK "TRAIN-HANDS," IN 1S13.

would seem too tainted even for the dirt and
squalor which they shelter ; wooden chambers
thrusting themselves out above the mud, and
threatening to fall into it, as some of them have
done ; dirt-besmeared walls and decaying foun-
dations— all these ornament the banks of Folly
Ditch." This is the scene in the narrow i)assages
near the Island, two of which are known by the
humble names of Halfpenny Alley and Farthing
Alley. In Jacob's Island itself the " warehouses
are roofless and empty, the walls are crumbling
down, the windows arc now no windows, the doors
' are falling into the street, the chimneys are black-
ened, but they yield no smoke; and, through losses
and (Chancery suits, it is made quite a desolate
island indeed."

plate here alluded to, the spectator is supposed to
be standing on Jacob's Island, and looking across
the Folly Ditch, to the crazy, ancient houses of
London Street.

" The history of this ditch or tide-stream," says
Charles Knight in his " London," " is connected,
in a remarkable way, with the manufacturing fea-
tures of Bermondsey. When the abbey was at
the height of its glory, and formed a nucleus to
which all else in the neighbourhood was subordi-
nate, the sujiply of water for its inmates was ob-
tained from the Thames through the medium of
this tide. Bermondsey was probably at one time
very little better than a morass, the whole being
low and level : indeed, at the present time, manu-
facturers in that locality find tiic utmost difficulty

ii6

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Eermondsey,

in obtaining a firm foundation for their buildings,
such is the spongy nature of the ground. In the
early period just alluded to, the spot, besides
being low, was almost entirely unencumbered with
buildings ; and thus a channel from the Thames,
although not many feet in depth, was filled through-
out the entire district at every high tide. There
was a mill at the river-side, at which the corn for
the granary of the abbey was ground ; and this
mill was turned by the flu.\ and reflux of the water
along the channel. When the abbey was de-
stroyed, and the ground passed into the possession
of others, the houses which were built on the site
still received a supply of water from this water-
course. In process of time tanneries were esta-
blished on the spot, most probably on account of
the valuable supply of fresh water obtainable every
twelve hours from the river. This seems to be
an opinion entertained by many of the principal
manufacturers of the place."

A writer in the Morning Chronicle, some years
ago, alluding to this particular locality, remarks :
"The striking peculiarity of Jacob's Island con-
sists in the wooden galleries and sleeping-rooms at
the back of the houses, which overhang the dark
flood, and are built upon piles, so that the place
has positively the air of a Flemish street, flanking
a sewer instead of a canal ; while the little rickety
bridges that span the ditches and connect court
with court, give it the appearance of the Venice of
drains." The same writer observes that "in the
reign of Henry II. the foul stagnant ditch, which
now makes an island of this pestilential spot, was a
running stream, supplied with the waters which
poured down from the hills about Sydenham and
Nunhead, and was used for the working of the
mills which then stood on its banks. These had
been granted to the monks of St. Mary and St.
John to grind their flour, and were dependencies
upon the Priory of Eermondsey ; and what is now
a straw-yard skirting the river was once the City
Ranelagh, called Cupid's Gardens, and the trees,
now black with mud, were the bowers under which
the citizens loved, on the summer evenings, to sit
beside the stream drinking their sack and ale."

Dickens's graphic picture of the filth, wretched-
ness, and misery of Jacob's Island, at the time it
was written — some thirty years ago — was by no
means overdrawn. A vast deal has been done,
however, towards removing its worst evils, although
more remains to be done. One of tlie missionaries
of the London City Mission, in 1876, furnished a
report on the district as it was when he entered
it twenty-one years ago, and as it now exists. Many
of the horrors, he admits, have passed away : —

" The foal ditch no longer pollutes the air. It
has long been filled up ; and along Mill Street,
where ' the crazy wooden galleries ' once hung
over it, stands Messrs. Peek, Frean, and Co.'s
splendid biscuit bakery. The ditch which inter-
sected the district along London Street served as
a fine bathing-place for the resident juveniles in
summer-time. I have seen," continues the writer,
"many of the boys rolling joyously in tiie thick
liquid, undeterred by the close proximity of the
decomposing carcases of cats and dogs. Where
this repulsive sight was often witnessed there is
now a good solid road. Many of the houses,
too, in London Street have been pulled down,
and the vacant space added to the houses in
Hickman's Folly, thus aflbrding them a little yard
or garden. In Dickens's sketch of the district
he states that ' the houses have no owners, and
they are broken open and entered upon by those
who have the courage.' This, in many cases, I
know to be literally true. Much of the property
of the district has no rightful owners, and many
of the houses no claimants. In not a few cases
persons have got possession of them and have
never been asked for rent. I recollect a young
unmarried man occupying one of these unclaimed
houses. He remained in it as long as he pleased,
and then sold it to a bricklayer for ^5. The
structure of many of the old houses shows that
they have been adapted to the concealment of
crime. Subterranean connection between houses,
and windows opening on to the roofs of other
dwellings, bear witness to its being a place where
desperate characters found a sure hiding-place,
and where pursuit and detection were rendered
next to impossible. Most of these dens have
been pulled down since I have been on the
district. Part of London Street, the whole of
Little London Street, part of Mill Street, beside
houses in Jacob Street and Hickman's Folly, have
been demolished. In most of these places ware-
houses have taken the place of dwelling-houses.
The revolting fact of many of the inhabitants of
the district having no other water to drink than
that which they procured from the filthy ditches
is also a thing of the past. Most of the houses
are now supplied with good water, and the streets
are very well paved. Indeed, so great is the
change for the better in the external appearance
of the district generally, that a person who had
not seen it since the improvements; would now
scarcely recognise it. Such a place as Jacob's
Island, especially before improvements were made,
cannot excite surprise ihat during the prevalence
of any epidemic it should come in for a very

Bermondsey.,

The abbey.

ir;

severe scourge and heavy death-rate. Durhig
the cholera visitations of 1849 and 1854 the
victims were alarmingly numerous. In one fever
visitation the number of cases in Jacob's Island
were frightfully numerous, reaching to upwards of
two hundred, many of which were fatal. I remem-
ber that in one house in London Street there were
nineteen cases. During the present visitation of
small-pox the district has also suffered somewhat
severely. The occupations of the people are
various, including more largely watermen and
waterside labourers, costermongers, and wood-
choppers. The wood-choppers form a rather
numerous class in the district. In the centre of
the district is a large wood-yard, containing im-
mense stacks of wood imported from Norway.
Round the yards are sheds in which about 200
persons, including men, women, boys, and girls,
work. These people are generally of the lowest
class, and being congregated together, young and
old, they corrupt one another. It has been for
a long time a thriving nursery for immorality.
But I am glad to say that lately an improvement
has taken place. The great majority never saw
the interior of a church, except on the occasion of
a christening, or when they wanted the clergyman
to sign a paper. They looked upon public worship

as something 'out of their line altogether.' I
found persons who had not entered a place of
worship for forty or fifty years. Drunkenness
was a predominant vice in the district, not only
with men, but equally with women."

For some considerable time past an agitation
has been going on as to the desirability of having
a high-level bridge near this spot, as a means
of affording more direct communication between
the two sides of the river than at present exist.
In December, 1876, a meeting of the Court of
Common Council was held, when the question was
discussed. The site which appeared most eligible
to the court was that approached from Little Tower
Hill and Irongate Stairs on the north side, and from
Horselydown Stairs on the south side of the river.
Since then the plans for a new low-level bridge, by
Messrs. ArroU and W. Barry, engineers, were chosen
by the late Metropolitan Board of Works, and its first
stone was laid by the Prince of Wales in 1886. It
is hoped that it will be ready for public and formal
opening in 1893. When completed it will be a great
saving of time, labour, and expense to many
thousands of the working classes at the East End,
on both sides of the river ; and it will doubtless give
the signal for other improvements in Bermondsey
and Horselydown. The cost will be _;^75o,ooo.

CHAPTER X.
BERMONDSEY (««//««««■).— THE ABBEY, &c.

" The sacred taper's lights are gone,
Grey moss has clad the ahar-stone.
The holy image is o'erthrown.

The bell has ceased to toll ;
The long-ribb'd aisles are burst and shrunk.
The holy shrine to ruin sunk,
Departed is the pious monk ;

God's blessing on his soul !" — Scott.

The Dissolution of Monasteries by Henry VIII.— Earliest Historical Mention of Bermondsey Abbey— Some Account of the Cluniac Monasteries in
England, and Customs of the Cluniac Order— Grant of the Manor of Bermondsey to Bermondsey Abbey— Queen Katherine, Widow of
Henry V., retires hither— Elizabeth Woodville, Widow of Edward IV., a Prisoner here— Form of Service for the Repo.'.e of the Souls of the
Queen of Henry VII. and her Children— Grant of the Monastery to Sir Robert Southwell— Its Sale to Sir Thomas Pope— Demolition of the
Abbey Church — Remains of the Abbey at the Close of the Last Century— Neckinger Road— The Church of St. Mary Magdalen— A Curious
Matrimonial Ceremony— An Ancient Salver— The Rood of Bermondsey— Grange Walk and Grange Road — The Tanning and Leather Trades
in Bermondsey — "Simon the Tanner "—Fellmongerj'— Bermondsey Hide and Skin Market— Russell Street— St. Olave's Union— Brick-
layers' Arms Station— Growth of Modern Bermondsey— Neckinger Mills— The Spa— Baths and Wash-houses— Christ Church— Roman
Catholic Church of the Most Holy Trinity, and Convent of the Sisters of Mercy— Jamaica Road— The Old " Jamaica " Tavern— The " Lion
and Castle "—Cherry Garden— St. James's Church— Traffic on the Railway near Bermondsey— Messrs. Peek, Frean, and Co.'s Biscuit
Factory— Blue Anchor Road-Galley Wall.

Readers of English history need scarcely be told
how that King Henry VIII., in his selfish zeal for
novelties in religion, laid violent hands on all the
abbeys and other religious houses in the kingdom,
except a very few, which were spared at the
earnest petition of the people, or given up to the
representatives of the original founders. Before

proceeding to the final suppression, under the
pretext of checking the superstitious worshipping
of images, he had laid bare their altars and stripped
their shrines of everything that was valuable ; nor
did he spare the rich coffins and crumbling bones
of the dead. Although four hundred years had
passed away since the murder of Thomas Becket

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Bcrmondsey.

m Canterbury Cathedral, the venerated tomb was
oroken open, and a sort of criminal information
was filed against the dead saint, as " Thomas
Becket, sometime Archbishop of Canterbury," who
was formally cited to appear in court and answer
to the charges. As the saint did not appear at
the bar of this earthly court, which was held in
Westminster Hall in 1539, it was deemed proper
to declare that " he was no saint whatever, but
a rebel and traitor to his prince, and that there-
fore he, the king, strictly commanded that he should
not be any longer esteemed or called a saint;
that all images and pictures of him should be
destroyed; and that his name and remembrance
should be erased out of all books, under pain
of his majesty's indignation, and imprisonment
at his grace's pleasure." Other shrines had been
plundered before, and certain images and relics
of saints had been broken to pieces publicly at
St. Paul's Cross ; but now every shrine was laid
bare, or, if any escaped, it was owing to the
poverty of their decorations and offerings. " In
the final seizure of the abbeys and monasteries,"
■writes the author of the " Comprehensive History
of England," " the richest fell first. After Canter-
bury, Battle Abbey ; Merton, in Surrey ; Stratford,
in Essex; Lewes, in Sussex; the Charterhouse, the
Blackfriars, the Greyfriars, and the Whitefriars, in
London, felt the iury of the same whirlwind, which
gradually blew over the whole land, until, in the
spring of the year 1 540, all the monastic establish-
ments of the kingdom were suppressed, and the
mass of their landed property was divided among
courtiers and parasites. . . . All the abbeys
were totally dismantled, except in the cases where
they happened to be the parish churches also ; as
was the case at St. Albans, Tewkesbury, Malvern,
and elsewhere, where they were rescued, in part
by the petitions and pecuniary contributions of
the pious inhabitants, who were averse to the
worshipping of God in a stable." Of the " lesser
monasteries" which were thus ruthlessly swept away
was the Abbey of Bcrmondsey, which is now kept
in remembrance mainly by the names given to a
few streets wiiich cover its site, and through which
we are about to pass.

The earliest mention of this abbey occurs in the
account of Bermondsey in "Domesday," from which
may be gathered some idea of the solitude and
seclusion which the place then enjoyed ; when it is
stated that there was " woodland " round about for
the " pannage " of a certain number of hogs ; and
that there was also " a new and fair church, with
twenty acres of meadow." Soon after the Norman
conquest, a' number of Cluniac monks settled in

this country; and in 1082 a wealthy citizen of
London, Aylwin Childe, founded a monastery at
Bermondsey, which some of the ecclesiastics from
the Monastery of La Charite', on the Loire, made
their new home in the land of their adoption.

" The Cluniacs," ^vrites Mr. A. Wood in his
" Ecclesiastical Antiquities," " derived their name
from Clugni, in Burgundy, where Odo, an abbot
in the tenth century, reformed the Benedictine
rule. Their habit was the same as the Benedictine.
The order was introduced into England in 1077,
when a Cluniac house was established at Lewes, in
Sussex, under the protection of Earl Warenne, the
Conqueror's son-in-law. In the twelfth century the
Abbey of Clugni was at the height of its reputation
under Peter the Venerable (1122-1156). From
the 13th of September till Lent, the Cluniacs had
one meal only a day, except during the octaves
of Christmas and the Epiphany, when they had
an extra meal. Still eighteen poor were fed at
their table. There were never more than twenty
Cluniac houses in England, nearly all of them
founded before the reign of Henry II. Until the
fourteenth centur}', all the Cluniac houses were
priories dependent on the parent house. The
Prior of St Pancras, Lewes, was the high-chamber-
lain, and frequently the vicar-general, of the Abbey
of Cluny, and exercised the functions of a Pro-
vincial in England. The English houses were
all governed by foreigners, and the monks were
oftener of foreign than of English extraction. In
the fourteenth century, however, there was a
change ; many of the houses became denizen, and
Bermondsey was made an abbey."

The following interesting particulars of the
customs of the Cluniac order are gathered from
Stevens's translation of the French history of the
monastic orders, given in his continuation of
Dugdale, and transcribed in the great edition of
the " Monasticon : " — " They every day sung two
solemn masses, at each of which a monk of one
of the choirs offered two hosts. If any one
would celebrate mass on Holy Thursday, before
the solemn mass was simg, he made no use of
light, because the new fire was not yet blessed.
The preparation they used for making the bread
which was to serve for the sacrifice of the altar
is worthy to be observed. They first chose the
wheat, grain by grain, and washed it very carcfiiUy.
Being put into a bag, appointed only for that
use, a servant, known to be a just man, carried it
to the mill, washed the grindstones, covered them
with curtains above and below, and having put
on himself an alb, covered his face with a veil,
ncithing but his eyes appearing. The same pre-

Bermondscy. ]

A ROYAL PRISONER.

119

caution was used with the meal. It was not
boulted till it had been well washed ; and the
warden of the church, if he were either priest or
deacon, finished the rest, being assisted by two
other religious men, who were in the same orders,
and by a lay brother particularly appointed for
that business. These four monks, when matins
were ended, washed their faces and hands ; tiie
three first of them did put on albs ; one of them
washed the meal with pure clean water, and the
otlier two baked the hosts in the iron moulds ;
so great was the veneration and respect the monks
of Cluni paid to the Holy Eucharist." The sites of
the mill and the bakehouse of Bermondsey Abbey
were both traceable as late as the year 1S76.

William Rufus enriched the abbey by the grant
of the manor of Bermondsey ; and the establish-
ment soon became one of the most important in
England. In 12 13, Prior Richard erected an
almonry or hospital adjoining the monastery ; but
no traces of that now exist The parish church
of St. Mary Magdalen, rebuilt in 1680, at the
junction of Bermondsey Street and Abbey Street,
occupies' nearly the site of the conventual church.
The monastic buildings weue, doubtless, very ex-
tensive and magnificent ; and the monks main-
tained a splendid hospitality and state. Katherine
of France, widow of Henry V., retired hither to
mourn, perhaps the victor of Agincourt, to whose
memory she had erected, in Westminster Abbey,
a life-sized silver-gilt statue ; or it may have
been her second husband, Owen Tudor, who
probably little thought he would ever become
the progenitor of two of the greatest monarchs
who ever sat on the English throne — bluff King
Henry and Queen Bess, not to mention Henry's
father, the conqueror of crook-backed Richard,
and Elizabeth's boy-brother and her sister Mary.
Katherine died at Bermondsey, a double widow,
in January, 1437. In the convent here Elizabeth
Woodville, the widow of Edward IV., was shut
up as a sort of prisoner by Henr\' VII., shortly
after the marriage of the latter with her daughter
Elizabeth. The Queen Dowager died in 1492.
A few days before her death she made her will,
and a pathetic document it is. Her son-in-law,
Henry VII., cruelly neglected her ; and when in
after years he ordered an anniversary service to
be sung on the 6th of February, by the monks of
Bermondsey, for the repose of the souls of his
late queen and children, his father and his mother,
he forgot to include poor Elizabeth, the mother
of his wife, once queen of England, but who ended
her days almost a pauper in the very abbey where
the stately service was performed.

As a glimpse of what was sometimes doing in
the old church, as well as of the old custom itself
the following extract will be found interesting : —
" The abbot and convent of St. Saviour of Ber-
mondsey shall provide at every such anniversary a
hearse, to be set in the midst of the high chancel
of the same monastery before the high altar,
covered and apparelled with the best and most
honourable stuft" in the same monastery convenient
for the same. And also four tapers of wax,
each of them weighing eight pounds, to be set
about the same hearse, that is to say, on either
side thereof one taper, and at either end of the
same hearse another taper, and all the same four
tapers to be lighted and burning continually during
all the time of every such Placebo, Dirige, with
nine lessons, lauds and mass of Requiem, with the
prayers and obeisances above rehearsed."

At the dissolution of the monasteries, Bermondsey
Abbey, with its rich manor, was seized — as was
the case with other similar places — by Henry VIII.
At that time the Abbot of Bermondsey had no
very tender scruples about conscience or principle,
like so many of his brethren, but arranged every-
thing in the pleasantest possible manner for the
king ; and he had his reward. While the poor
monks had pensions varying from ;^5 6s. 8d. to
;^io a year each allowed them, the good Lord
Abbot's pension amounted to ;i^336 6s. 8d. The
monastery itself, with the manor, demesnes, &c.,
were granted by the Crown to Sir Robert South-
well, Master of the Rolls, who sold them to Sir
Thomas Pope, the founder of Trinity College,
Oxford. In 1545 Sir Thomas pulled down the
old priory church, and built Bermondsey House
upon the site and with the materials. Here died,
in 1583, Thomas Radcliffe, Earl of Sussex, Lord
Chamberlain to Queen Elizabeth. This was the
Earl of Sussex who, according to Sir Walter Scott
in his interesting romance of " Kenilworth," was
visited by "Master" Tressilian at Sayes Court,
Deptford, and restored from a dangerous illness
by the skill of Wayland Smith, to the great wonder
of Walter Raleigh and Sir Thomas Blount. About
1 760, the east gate of the monastery was removed ;
then early in the present century nearly all that
was left of the old buildings shared the same fate,
and Abbey Street was built upon the site. The
Neckinger Road— at a short distance southward
of Jacob's Island, Dockhead, and the other water-
side places mentioned towards the close of the
preceding chapter— marks the ancient water-course,
formerly navigable as far as the precincts of the
abbey. This road, which is at the junction ot
Parker's Row with Jamaica Road, leads westward,

120

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tBermondsey.

by Abbey Street and Long Lane, into the Borough
High Street, close by St. George's Church. This,
then, is the spot on which the ancient monastery
once flourished ; there are, however, scarcely any
remains of the conventual building left standing,
and a walk over the site of the great abbey of the
Cluniacs can now afford but little gratification.
The entire site is pretty well covered over with
modern houses and dirty streets and courts.

"The Long Walk," as Charles Knight pleasantly

felt themselves a part of the old abbey, and had no
business to survive its destruction. They will not
have much longer to wait; little remains to be
destroyed. In the Grange Walk is a part of the
gate-house of the east gateway, with a portion of the
rusted hinge of the monastic doors. In Long Walk,
on the right, is a small and filthy quadrangle (once
called, from some tradition connected with the visits
of the early English monarchs to Bermondsey, King
John's Court, now Bear Yard) in which are a few

BERMONDSF.y AIUIEY, 1 790.

suggests in his "London," "was once perhaps a
fine shady avenue, where the abbot or his monks
were accustomed to while away the summer after-
noon, but is about one of the last places that
would now tempt the wandering footstep of the
stranger ; the ' Grange Walk ' no longer leads to
the pleasant farm or park of the abbey, and is in
itself but a painful mockery of the as.sociations
roused by the name ; the ' Court.' or Base Court-
yard, is changed into Bermondsey Square, flanked
on all sides by small tenements, the handiwork
of the builders who completed a few years ago
what Sir Thomas Pope began ; and though some
trees are yet there, of so ancient appearance that,
for aught we know, they may have witnessed the
destruction of the ver}' conventual church, yet they
are dwindling and dwindling away, as though they

dilapidated houses, where the stonework, and form
and antiquity of the windows, afford abundant
evidence of their connection with the monastery.
Lastly, in the churchyard of the present church of
St. Mary Magdalen are some pieces of the wall
that surrounded the gardens and church of the
Cluniacs."

Although Bermondsey is, perhaps, not the most
civilised and scholastic part of London now, it
is no small credit to the churchmen of the early
Nonnan times, that, according to Fitzstephcn, as
interpreted to us by honest John Stow, the three
earliest schools for youth in London and its neigh-
bourhood were founded under the shadows respec-
tively of Old St. Paul's, of St. I'eter's Abbey, West-
minster, .and of the Abbey of Bermondsey.

In Faithorne's map of London and Southwark

Bermondsey.]

A CURIOUS vow.

(1643-8) the abbey is shown as standing in its
entire condition in its own enclosed grounds.

The church of St. Mary Magdalen, at the corner
of Abbey Street and LSerniondsey Street, stands
on the site of the ancient conventual church. It
is a brick-built structure, consisting of a chancel,
nave, two aisles, and a transept ; and at the western
end is a low square tower with a turret. The
church contains no monuments worthy of note.
In 1830 the tower was repaired and "beautified"

THE man's speech.
Elizabeth, my beloved wife, I am righte sorie that I have
so long absented myself from thee, whereby thou shouldest
be occasioned to take another man to be thy husband.
Therefore I do now vowe and promise, in the sight of God
and this company, to take thee again as ray owne, and will
not onlie forgive thee but live with thee, and do all other
duties to thee, as I promised at our marriage.

THE woman's speech.

Raphe, my beloved husband, I am righte sorie that I have
in thy absence taken another man to be my husband ; but

ST. MARY MAGDALEN'S CHURCH, BERMONDSEY, iSog.

after the usual " churchwarden " fashion of the
period, and at the same time the Gothic windows
were restored, and since that date the church has
been re-seated, and otherwise greatly improved.
The registers commence in 1538, and have been
continued with very few interruptions up to the
present time. Some of the entries are very
singular and curious. Here, for instance, is one
which we give in extenso, since it may serve as a
model for such transactions in these days of
judicial separations. It is headed, " The forme of
a solemn vowe made betwixt a man and his wife,
having been long absent, through Vvhich occasion
the woman being married to another man, (the
husband) took her again as followeth : " —
251

here, before God and this companie, I do renounce and

forsake him ; I do promise to keep myself only to thee

duringe life, and to perform all the duties which I first
promised to thee in our marriage.

Then follows a short prayer, suited to the occasion,
and the entry thus concludes :

The 1st day of August, 1604, Raphe Goodchild, of the
parish of Barkinge, in Thames Street, and Elizabeth
his wife were agreed to live together, and thereupon gave
their hands one to another, making either of them solemn
vow so to do in the presence of us, William Steres, Parson;
Edward Coker ; and Richard Eyres, Clerk.

Another entry in the register also is remarkable.
"James Herriott, Esq., and Elizabeth Josey, Gent.,
were married Jan. 4., 1624-5. N.B. This James
Herriott was one of the forty children of his father.

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Bennondsey.

a Scotchman." It is to be hoped, for the sake
of the family, that the history of the parent did
not repeat itself in that of the son.

In this church is a very curious ancient salver
of silver, now used for the collection of the alms
at the offertory. On the centre is a beautifully-
chased representation of the gate of a castle or
town, with two figures, a knight kneeling before a
lady, who is about to place his helmet on his head.
The long-pointed soUeretts of the feet, the orna-
ments of the armpits, and the form of the helmet,
are supposed to mark the date of the salver as
that of Edward II. The other memorial to which
we have referred is of a much more interesting
character ; it is thus recorded in the " Chronicle
of Bermondsey:" — "Anno Domini 1117. The
cross of St. Saviour is found near the Thames."
And again, under the date of 1 1 1 8 : — " William
Earl of Morton was miraculously liberated from
the Tower of London through the power of the
holy cross." This Lord Morton was a son of the
Earl of Morton mentioned in Domesday Book as
possessing "a hide of land" in this parish, on
which, it appears from another part of the record,
he had a mansion-house. The above-mentioned
nobleman seems to have had a perfect faith in
the truth of the miracle ; for the chronicle subse-
quently states: "In the year 1140 William Earl
of Morton came to Bermondsey, and assumed
the monastic habit." In our account of old St.
Paul's Cathedral* we have spoken of the scene
which was witnessed at Paul's Cross on the break-
ing up of the " Rood of Grace," which had been
brought from Boxley Abbey, in Kent; and we
may mention here that the degradation of the
"Rood of Bermondsey" formed, as it were, an
appendix to that day's proceedings. A reference
to this transaction is to be found in an ancient
diary of a citizen, preserved among the Cottonian
MSS., under the date of 1558, in the following
passage :— " M. Gresham, Mayor. On Saint Mat-
thew's day, the Apostle, the 24th day of February,
Sunday, did the Bishop of Rochester preach at
Paul's Cross, and had standing afore him all his
sermon time the picture of Rood of Grace in
Kent, and was [i.e. which had been] greatly sought
with pilgrims; and when he had made an end
of his sermon, was torn all in pieces ; then was
the picture of Saint Saviour, that had stood in
Barmsey Abbey many years, in Southwark, taken
down." The word "jjicture," it may be stated, was
often used in the widest sense to express an image
or statue ; and it may be remarked, with reference

' Sec Vol. I., p. 243.

to the Rood in Bermondsey Abbey, that the
words are " taken down," not that it was actually
destroyed. In front of the bnilding attached
to the chief or north gate of the abbey was a
rude representation of a small cross, with some
zigzag ornamentation ; the whole had the appear-
ance of being something placed upon or let into
the wall, and not a part of the original building ;
and there it remained till the comparatively recent
destruction of this last remnant of the monastic
pile. In a drawing made of the remains of the
Abbey in 1679, which was afterwards engraved by
Wilkinson, in his " Londinia Illustrata," the same
cross appears in the same situation ; from this it
has been conjectured, apart from the corroborative
evidence of tradition, that this was the old Saxon
cross found near the Thames, or that it was a
part of the " picture " before which pilgrims used
to congregate in the old conventual church.

In Wilkinson's work above mentioned is en-
graved a ground-plan of the site and precincts of
Bermondsey Abbey, copied from a survey made in
1679. It exhibits a ground-plot of the old con-
ventual church, with gardens enclosed by stone
walls, and bounded on the north by the church-
yard of St. Mary Magdalen ; the west and north
gates, leading into the " base court-yard," the site
of the mansion, with its long gallery, built by Sir
Thomas Pope; and the east gate, leading into
" Grange " Walk. In the same work is a general
view of the remains of the monastic and other old
buildings, with the adjacent country, taken in 1805
from the steeple of the adjoining church, and also
an east view of the ancient gateway, with several
other engravings relating to the abbey and its
attached buildings. The east gate of the monastery,
in Grange Walk, was pulled down about the middle
of the last century. We learn from Brayley's
" History of Surrey," that " the great gate-house,
or principal entrance, the front of which was com-
posed of squared flints and dark-red tiles, ranged
alternately, was nearly entire in the year 1806 ; but
shortly afterwards it was completely demolished,
together with nearly all the adjacent ancient
buildings, and Abbey Street was erected on their
site. The north gate led into the great close of
the abbey, now Bermondsey Square, and sur-
rounded by modern houses. Grange Road, which
was built on the pasture-ground belonging to the
monastery, commences near the south-west corner
of the square, and extends to what was till lately
the Grange Farm, and continues onward to the
ancient water-course called the Neckinger, over
which is a bridge, leading to the water-side division
of the parish. In 18 10 the present churchyard

Bermondsey.]

BERMONDSEY LEATHER MARKET.

123

(which had been previously extended in 1783) was
enlarged by annexing to it a strip of land sixteen
feet in width, that formed a part of the conventual
burial-ground ; in doing which many vestiges of
sculpture were found, together with a stone coffin."

We may add that King Stephen was a great
benefactor to the abbey, on which he bestowed
broad lands in Writtle, near Chelmsford, in Essex,
and in other places.

In the previous chapter we have stated that
Bermondsey, in a certain sense, may be regarded
as a "region of manufacturers." Indeed, for several
centuries this locality has been the centre of the
tanning and leather trades. But even this un-
savoury trade has its advantages. When the Great
Plague raged in the City of London, many of the
terror-stricken creatures fled to the Bermondsey
tan-pits, and found strong medicinal virtues in the
nauseous smell. The great leather market has
been established on this spot for above 200 years.
Hat-making, too, is most extensively carried on ;
and it is said that in no place in the kingdom of
equal area is there such a great variety of important
manufactures. The intersection of the district by
innumerable tidal ditches gave unusual facilities
for the leather manufacture, but at the same time
it also entailed frightful misery on the crowded
inhabitants. If we draw a line from St. James's
Church, in the Jamaica Road, to the intersection
of the Grange Road with the Old Kent Road, we
shall find to the west, or rather to the north-west,
of that line, nearly the whole of the factories con-
nected with the leather and wool trade of London.
" A circle one mile in diameter, having its centre
at the spot where the abbey once stood," says
Charles Knight, in his " London," " will include
within its limits most of the tanners, the curriers,
the fellmongers, the woolstaplers, the leather-
factors, the leather-dressers, the leather-dyers, the
parchment-makers, and the glue-makers, for which
this district is so remarkable. There is scarcely a
street, a road, a lane, into which we can turn with-
out seeing evidences of one or other of these occu-
pations. One narrow road — leading from the
Grange Road to the Kent Road — is particularly
distinguishable for the number of leather-factories
which it exhibits on either side ; some time-worn
and mean, others newly and skilfully erected.
Another, street, known as Long Lane, and lying
westward of the church, exhibits nearly twenty dis-
tinct establishments where skins or hides undergo
some of the many processes to which they are
subjected. In Snow's Fields ; in Bermondsey New
Road ; in Russell Street, Upper and Lower ; in
M'illow Walk, and Page's Walk, and Grange Walk,

and others whose names we cannot now remember
— in all of these, leather, skins, and wool seem to
be the commodities out of which the wealth of the
inhabitants has been created. Even the public-
houses give note of these peculiarities by the signs
chosen for them, such as the ' Woolpack,' the
' Fellmongers' Arms,' ' Simon the Tanner,' and
others of like import. If there is any district in
London whose inhabitants might be excused for
supporting the proposition that ' There is nothing
like leather,' surely Bermondsey is that place ! "

The old-established house, known as " Simon
the Tanner," is situated in Long Lane. The sign
makes allusion, of course, to the tanner of Joppa,
of whom we read in the Acts of the Apostles, as
having St. Peter as his lodger. " The sign," says
Mr. Larwood, "is supposed to be unique."

From the following enumeration of some of the
manufacturers in Bermondsey Street alone, it will
be seen how many branches of industry are carried
on here in connection with the leather trade : hide-
sellers, tanners, leather-dressers, morocco leather
dressers, leather sellers and cutters, curriers, parch-
ment-makers, wool-staplers, horsehair manufac-
turers, hair and flock manufacturers, patent hair-
felt manufacturers. There are besides these skin
and hide salesmen, fellmongers, leather-dyers, and
glue-makers, in other parts of the vicinity.

Bermondsey Market, the great emporium for
hides and skins, is in Weston Street, on the north
side of Long Lane. It was established on this
spot about the year 1S33; and the building,
together with the ground whereon it stands, cost
nearly ;^5o,ooo. It is a long series of brick ware-
houses, lighted by a range of windows, and having
an arched entrance gateway at either end. These
entrances open into a quadrangle or court, covered
for the most part with grass and surrounded by
warehouses, and enclosing others for the stowage of
hops. In the warehouses is transacted the business
of a class of persons who are termed " leather
factors," who sell to the curriers or leather-sellers
leather belonging to the tanners ; or sell London-
tanned leather to country purchasers, or country-
tanned leather to London purchasers ; in short,
they are middle-men in the traffic in leather, as
skin-salesmen are in the traffic in skins. Beyond
this first quadrangle is a second, called the " Skin
Depository," and having four entrances, two from
the larger quadrangle, and two from a street leading
into Bermondsey Street. This depositor)' is an
oblong plot of ground terminated by semi-circular
ends ; it is pitched with common road-stones along
the middle, and flagged round with a broad foot-
pavement. Over the pavement, tlirough its whole

124

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Bermondsey.

extent, is an arcade supported by pillars ; and the
portion of pavement included between every two
contiguous pillars is called a "bay." There are
about fifty of these "bays," which are let out to
skin-salesmen at about ;^is per annum each; and
on the pavement of his bay. the salesman e.xposes
the skins which he is commissioned to sell. Here
on market-days may be seen a busy scene of traffic
between the salesmen on the one hand and the
fellmongers on the other. The carts, laden with
sheepskins, come rattling into the place, and draw
up in the roadway of the depository ; the loads
are taken out, and ranged on the pavement of the
bays ; the sellers and buyers make their bargains ;
the purchase-money is paid into the hands of the
salesman, and by him transmitted to the butcher ;
and the hides or skins are removed to the yards
of the buyers.

As was supposed when the New Skin Market
was built, the trade in hides, as well as that in
skins, has come to be carried on here. A large
quantity of ox-hides, however, from which the
thicker kinds of leather are made, are still sold at
Leadenhall Market, which was long the centre of
this trade ; and nearly all the leather manufacturers
in Bermondsey are still proprietors in that market.

Tlie whole of the fellmongers belonging to the
metropolis are congregated within a small circle
around the Skin Market in Weston Street. It forms
no part of the occupation of these persons to con-
vert the sheepskins into leather. The skins pass
into their hands with the wool on, just as they are
taken from the sheep ; and the fellmonger then
proceeds to remove the wool from the pelt, and to
cleanse the latter from some of the impurities with
which it is coated.

"The produce of the fellmongers' labours,"
writes Charles Knight, " passes into the hands of
two or three other classes of manufacturers, such as
the wool-stapler, the leather-dresser, and the parch-
ment-maker. The wool-staplers, thirty or forty in
number, are, like the fellmongers, located almost
without a single exception in Bermondsey. They
are wool dealers, who purchase the commodity as
taken from the skins, and sell it to the hatters, the
woollen and worsted manufacturers, and others.
They are scarcely to be denominated manufac-
turers, since the wool passes through their hands
without undergoing any particular change or pre-
paration ; it is sorted into various qualities, and,
like the foreign wool, packed in bags for the
market. In a street called Russell Street, inter-
secting Bermondsey Street, the large warehouses of
these wool-staplers may be seen in great number ;
tiers of ware or store-rooms, with cranes over them ;

wagons in the yard beneath ; huge bags filled
with wool, some arriving and others departing —
these are the appearances which a wool-warehouse
presents. It may, perhaps, not be wholly unne-
cessary to observe that the sheep's wool here
spoken of is only that portion which is taken from
the pelt or skin of the slaughtered animal, and
which is known by the name of skin-wool. The
portion which is taken from the animal during life,
and which is called ' shear wool,' possesses qualities
in some respects different from the former, and
passes through various hands. As very few sheep
are sheared near London, the shear-wool is not,
generally speaking, brought into the London market,
except that which comes from abroad."

Russell Street, in which we have now found
ourselves, perpetuates the name of a somewhat
eccentric individual who lived in Bermondsey in the
latter part of the last century — Mr. Richard Russell,
who died at his house in this parish, in September,
1784. In Manning and Bray's "History of
Surrey " we read that he was a bachelor, that he
desired to be buried in the church of St. John,
Horselydown, and that " he left, amongst other
legacies, to the Magdalen Hospital, ,^{^3,000 ; to
the Small-pox Hospital, ;^3,ooo ; to the Lying-in
Hospital, near Westminster Bridge, ^^3,000 ; to
the Surrey Dispensary, ^500 ; for a monument in
St. John's Church, ;^2,ooo ; to each of six young
women to attend as pall-bearers at his funeral,
;£5o; to four other young women to precede his
corpse and strew flowers whilst the ' Dead March '
in 5(7«/was played by the organist of St. John's,
each ^20 ; to the Rev. Mr. Grose, for writing his
epitaph, ;^ioo (originally to Dr. Johnson, but by a
codicil altered to Mr. Grose) ; all the residue to
the Asylum for Young Girls, in Lambeth (sup-
posed to be about ^15,000); eight acting magis-
trates of Surrey to attend the funeral. The executors
were Sir Joseph Mawbey, Samuel Gillam, Thomas
Bell, and William Leavis, Esquires. There had
not been anything apparent in the life of this person
to entitle him to any ])articular respect, and the
pompous funeral prepared for him produced no
small disorder." As regards the monument to the
memory of the deceased in St. John's Church, it
may be slated that the provisions of his will were
not complied with, but that his executors are said
to have considered a payment which they made to
the Rev. Mr. Peters, for a painting of tlie patron
saint of the church over the altar, as an equivalent
compensation.

In Russell Street is St. Olave's Union, which
consists of some extensive ranges of buildings,
forming a large square court, and covering a con-

Bermondsey.]

BRICKLAYERS' ARMS STATION.

'25

siderable space of ground. It affords a home for
a large number of poor persons, worn out with
age, or otherwise incapacitated from earning their
livehhood.

Retracing our steps through Bermondsey Street,
and by Star Corner, we make our way to the south
side of the Grange Road, mentioned above. Here
we again encounter evidences of the manufacturing
industry of Bermondsey, in the shape of its tan-
yards — another of the numerous branches of trade
arising out of the leather manufacture, which gives
to Bermondsey so many of its characteristics. In
Willow Walk, and one or two other places in the
vicinity, may be seen instances of one of the pur-
poses to which tan is appropriated. A large plot
of ground contains, in addition to heaps of tan,
skeleton frames about five or six feet in height,
consisting of a range of shelves one above another ;
and on these shelves are placed the oblong, rect-
angular pieces of " tan-turf," with which the middle
classes have not much to do, but which are exten-
sively purchased for fuel, at " ten or twelve for a
penny," by the humbler classes.

" All the tanneries in London, with, we believe,
one exception," says Charles Knight, " are situated
in Bermondsey, and all present nearly the same
features. Whoever has resolution enough to brave
the appeals to his organ of smell, and visits one of
these places, will see a large area of ground —
sometimes open above, and in other ca.ses covered
by a roof — intersected by pits or oblong cisterns,
whose upper edges are level with the ground. These
cisterns are the tan-pits, in which hides are exposed
to the action of liquid containing oak-bark. He
will see, perhaps, in one corner of the premises, a
heap of ox and cow-horns, just removed from the
hide, and about to be sold to the comb-makers,
the knife-handle makers, and other manufacturers.
He will see in another corner a heap of refuse
matter about to be consigned to the glue-manu-
facturer. In a covered building he will find a heap
of hides exposed to the action of lime, for loosen-
ing the hair with which the pelt is covered ; and
in an adjoining building he will probably see a
number of men scraping the surfaces of the hides
to prepare them for the tan-pits. In many of the
tanneries, though not all, he will see stacks of spent
tan, no longer useful in the tannery, but destined
for fuel or manure, or gardeners' hot-beds. In
airy buildings he will see the tanned leather hang-
ing up to dry, disposed in long ranges of rooms or
galleries. Such are the features which all the
tanneries, with some minor differences, exhibit."

Between Willow Walk and the Old Kent Road,
and stretching away from Page's Walk on the

north-west to Upper Grange Road on the south-
east, is the Bricklayers' Arms Station, the principal
luggage and goods depot of the South-Eastern
Railway. In the station itself, from an architectural
point of view, there is nothing requiring special
mention. The arrangements for the reception
and delivery of the goods at this station are in
nowise remarkable, nor are there any warehouses
or stores worthy of particular notice. The site
was purchased by the South-Eastern Railway
Company in 1843, and the lines of railway laid
across the market-gardens of Bermondsey, in order
to form a junction with the main line near New
Cross. Besides being used as a heavy goods
depot, the Bricklayers' Arms Station was for many
years — in fact, until the erection of the station
at Charing Cross — used as the terminus for the
arrival and departure of foreign potentates visiting
this country, and also for members of our own
Royal Family going abroad. Hither the body of
the Duke of Wellington was brought by rail from
Walmer Castle, in 1S52, in order to be conveyed
to Chelsea Hospital, preparatory to its interment
in St. Paul's Cathedral.

It is mentioned in the histories of England that
shortly after the battle of Edgehill the Common
Council of London passed an act for fortifying the
City, which was done with such dispatch, that a
rampart, with bastions, redoubts, and other bul-
warks, was shortly erected round the cities of
London and Westminster and the borough of
Southwark. It has been suggested that Fort Road
— the thoroughfare running parallel with Blue
Anchor Road, on the south side, from Upper
Grange Road to St. James's Road — may mark the
site of some of the fortifications here referred to.

A glance at a map of London of half a century
ago — or, indeed, even more recently — will show
that nearly the whole of the land hereabouts
consisted of market-gardens and open fields. At
a short distance eastward of the Upper Grange
Road, and south of the Blue Anchor Road, stood
a windmill, the site of which is now covered by
part of Lynton Road. On the east side of the
abbey enclosures was the farm known as " The
Grange," after which the Grange Road and Grange
Walk are named; and near the Grange wound the
narrow tide-stream or ditch called the Neckinger,
which was here spanned by a bridge. The
Neckinger was formerly navigable, for small craft,
from the Thames to the abbey precincts, and gives
name to the Neckinger Road. When the abbey
was destroyed, and the ground passed into the
possession of others, the houses which were built on
the site still received a supply of water from this

126

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tBermondsey,

water-course. In process of time tanneries were
established on the spot, most probably on account
of the valuable supply of fresh water obtain-
able every twelve hours from the river. " There
appears reason to believe," says Charles Knight,
" that the Neckinger was by degrees made to
supply other ditches, or small water-courses, cut
in different directions, and placed in communication
with it ; for, provided they were all nearly on a

of water from the river, at every high tide,
was confirmed to the discomfiture of the mill-
owner. Since that period there were occasional
disagreements between the manufacturers and the
owners of the mill respecting the closing of sluice-
gates, the repair and cleansing of the ditch, and
the construction of wooden bridges across it ; but
the tide, with few exceptions, still continued to flow
daily to and fro from the Thames to the neighbour-

BRIDGE AND TURNPIKE IN THE GRANGE ROAD, AnoUT 182O.

level, each high tide would as easily fill half a
dozen as a single one. Had there been no
mill at the mouth of the channel, the supply
might have gone on continuously ; but the mill
continued to be moved by the stream, and to
be held by parties who neither had nor felt
any interest in the affairs of the Neckinger
manufacturers. Disagreements thence arose ; and
we find that, towards the end of the last century,
the tanners of the central parts of Bermondsey
instituted a suit against the owner of the mill
for shutting off the tide when it suited his own
purpose so to do to the detriment of the leather
manufacturers. The ancient usages of the district
were brought forward in evidence, and the result
was that the right of the inhabitants to a supjily

hood of the Grange and Neckinger Roads. Many
of the largest establishments in Bermondsey were for
years dependent on the tide-stream for the water-
very abundant in quantity — required in the manu-
facture of leather. Other manufacturers, however,
constructed artesian wells on their premises, while
the mill at the mouth of the stream was worked
by steam power, so that the channel itself became
much less important than in former times.
Latterly this ditch, or ' tide-stream,' as it was
sometimes called, was under the management oi
commissioners, consisting of the jirincipal manu-
facturers, who were empowered to levy a small
rate for its maintenance and repair."

The Neckinger Mills, which cover a large space
of ground between the Neckinger Road and the

GARDEN FRONT OF JAMAICA HOUSE. CHERRY GARPKN STREET, WITH JAMAICA HOUSE.

{From Orig,incd Drawings, 1826. >

128

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Bermondsey.

South-Eastern Railway, were erected a century tells us how on one occasion he was induced to
or more ago by a company who attempted the pay a visit to this place, and how, when he reached
manufacture of paper from straw ; but this failmg, : the " Picture Gallery," he at first considered him-
the premises passed into the hands of others who ! self the only spectator. When he had gone the
established the leather manufacture. I round of the gallery he voluntarily re-commenced

An attempt was made in the latter part of the his view, but what followed will be best told in Mr.

last century to raise Bermondsey to the dignity
of a fashionable watering-place. Although that
portion of the district near the river was so close
and filthy, there were, as stated above, pleasant
fields stretching away towards the Kent Road.
The abbot's fat meadows were still green ; and, .
indeed, a singular characteristic of the eastern !
parts of Bermondsey to this day (especially notice-

Smith's own words : — " Stepping back to study the
picture of the ' Green-stall,' ' I ask your pardon,'
said I, for I had trodden upon some one's toes.
' Sir, it is granted,' replied a little thick-set man,
with a round face, arch look, and closely-curled wig,
surmounted by a small three-cornered hat put very
knowingly on one side, not unlike Hogarth's head
in his print of the ' Gates of Calais.' ' You are an

able from the railway) is the strange mingling of artist, I presume ; I noticed you from the end of
factories, in which the most offensive trades are the gallery, when you first stepped back to look at
vigorously carried on, with market-gardens and ! my best picture. I painted all the objects in this
green fields. In 1770 a chalybeate spring was room from nature and still life.' 'Your "Green-
discovered in some grounds adjoining the Grange grocer's Shop,"' said I, 'is inimitable; the drops
Road, of which advantage was taken by the j of water on that savoy appear as if they had just
proprietor with the view of inducing the water- | fallen from the element. Van Huysum could not
drinkers and the lovers of a fashionable lounge and have pencilled them with greater delicacy.' ' What

promenade to resort thither, and in that manner
caused this district to become for a brief interval
what Hampstead* had just ceased to be — a
favourite suburban watering-place. In the Era
Almanac for 1870 it is stated that a public-house
called the " Waterman's Arms " having become
vacant, an artist, Mr. Thomas Keyse, purchased
it, in 1766, along with some adjoining grounds,
and formed it for the amusements of a " tea-
garden." He ornamented it with his own paintings,
and the discovery in the grounds of a mineral
spring, which was found to be an excellent chaly-
beate, so increased the attractions of the gardens
that Bermondsey found the word " Spa " added
to its name. On application to the Surrey magis-
trates in 1784, Mr. Keyse obtained a licence
for music at his gardens, and this, with an ex-
penditure of ^4,000 on their decorations, gave
them a considerable popularity. The space before
the orchestra, which was about a quarter of the
size of that at Vauxhall, was totally destitute of
trees, the few that the gardens could then boast
being planted merely as a screen to prevent the
outside public from overlooking the interior of the
place. The paintings executed by Keyse himself
long existed, and were exhibited in an oblong
room known as the " Picture Gallery ; " they were
chiefly representations of a butcher's shop, a green-
grocer's shop, and so forth, all the details being
worked out with Dutch minuteness.

Mr. J. T. Smith, in his " Book for a Rainy Day,"

•S«eVol. v., p. 469.

, do you think,' said he, ' of my " Butcher's Shop ? " '
' Your pluck is bleeding fresh, and your sweetbread
is in a clean plate.' ' How do you like my bull's
eye ? ' ' VVhy, it would be a most excellent one for
Adams or Dollond to lecture upon. Your knuckle
of veal is the finest I ever saw.' ' It's young meat,'
replied he ; ' any one who is a judge of meat can
tell that from the blueness of its bone.' ' What a
beautiful white you have used on the fat of that
Southdown leg ! or is it Bagshot ? ' ' Yes,' said he,
' my solitary visitor, it is Bagshot ; and as for my
white, that is the best Nottingham, which you or
any artist can procure at Stone and Puncheon's, in
Bishopsgate Street Within. Sir Joshua Reynolds,'
continued Mr. Keyse, ' paid me two visits. On the
second, he asked me what white I had used ; and
when I told him, he observed, " It's very extra-
ordinar)', sir, how it keeps so bright ; I use the
same." " Not at all, sir," I rejoined : " the doors
of this gallery are open day and night ; and the
admission of fresh air, together with the great ex-
pansion of light from tlic sashes above, will never
suffer the white to turn yellow. Have you not
observed. Sir Joshua, how white the posts and rails
on the public roads are, though they have not
been re-painted for years ? — that arises from con-
stant air and bleaching." Come,' said Mr. Keyse,
putting his hand upon my shoulder, ' the bell
rings, not for jirayers, nor for dinner, but for the
song.' As soon as we had reached the orchestra
the singer curtsied to us, for we were the only
persons in the gardens. ' This is sad work,' said
he, 'but the woman must sing, according to our

Bermondsey.J

BERMONDSEY SPA.

129

contract.' I recollect that the singer was hand-
some, most dashingly dressed, immensely plumed,
and villanously rouged ; she smiled as she sang, but
it was not the bewitching smile of Mrs. Wrighten,
then applauded by thousands at Vauxhall Gardens.
As soon as the Spa lady had ended her song,
Keyse, after joining me in applause, apologised for
doing so, by observing that as he never suffered his
servants to applaud, and as the people in the road
(whose ears were close to the cracks in the paling
to hear the song) would make a bad report if they
had not heard more than the clapping of one pair
of hands, he had in this instance expressed his
reluctant feelings. As the lady retired from the
front of the orchestra, she, to keep herself in prac-
tice, curtsied to me with as much respect as she
would had Colonel Topham been the patron of a
gala-night. ' This is too bad,' again observed
Mr. Keyse, ' and I am sure you cannot expect
fireworks ! ' However, he politely asked me to
partake of a bottle of Lisbon, which upon my
refusing, he pressed me to accept of a catalogue
of his pictures. Blewitt, the scholar of Jonathan
Battishill, was the composer for the Spa establish-
ment. The following verse is perhaps the first of
his most admired composition : — •

" ' In lonely cot, by Humber's side.' "

A large picture model of the "Siege of Gibraltar,"
painted by Keyse, and occupying about four acres,
was exhibited here in the year 1784. Keyse
died about sixteen years later, and their popularity
having waned away, the gardens were shut up in
1804, leaving the modern Spa Road to perpetuate
their name. There are a few " tokens " of the
place extant ; and the locality is also kept in
remembrance by the " Spa Road " Station on the
Greenwich Railway.

" What was once the suburbs of London," says
the author of " Walks round London " (1832), " but
which now forms an integral part of the town itself,
was, in days long gone by, famous for its wells, of
real or imaginary virtues. Springs, or holy wells,
generally had their existence near some abbey,
monastery, or religious house, and often formed
no trifling addition to the revenues of the pious
dwellers in those edifices. These wells have, with
few exceptions, sunk into total disuse. In the south
there was the long famous Bermondsey Spa. In
the east was Holy Well, which has given its name
to a neighbourhood. Not far distant was St.
Agnes-le-Clair, still resorted to as a bath. On the
northern side of the metropolis is Chad's Well, in
Gray's Inn Road ; Islington Spa, still of some ac-
count, and where in 1733 the Princesses Caroline \

and Amelia are said to have drank the waters;
Bagnigge Wells, and Clerk's, or Clerkenwell— all
famous in their day. A second Holy Well was
near the Strand, and many others have sunk into
oblivion."

At the comer of Neckinger and Spa Roads
are some public baths and wash-houses. These
institutions, which are now to be met with in
almost every part of London, as well as in the
country, originated in a public meeting held at the
Mansion House in 1844, when a large subscrip-
tion was raised to build an establishment to serve
as a model for others, which it was anticipated
would be erected, when it had been proved that
the receipts, at the very low rate of cliarge contem-
plated, would be sufficient to cover the expenses,
and gradually to repay the capital invested. The
great need which existed for such means of clean-
liness among the industrial classes is testified by
the numbers who have used them.

Close by stands the new Town Hall, built in
1881-2. It is in the Renaissance style, freely
adapted to modern requirements.

At the junction of Neckinger Road with the
Jamaica Road is Parker's Row, at the southern
end of which stands Christ Church, a brick-built
edifice, of Romanesque architecture, erected in
1848. It was built chiefly out of the Southwark
Church and School Fund. At the north-western
corner of Parker's Row is a large Roman Catholic
church and convent. "It is a curious circum-
stance," writes Charles Knight, in his work quoted
above, "and one in which the history of many
changes of opinion may be read, that within forty
years after what remained of the magnificent
ecclesiastical foundation of the abbey of Ber-
mondsey had been swept away, a new conventual
establishment rose up, amidst the surrounding
desecration of factories and warehouses, in a large
and picturesque pile, with its stately church, fitted
in every way for the residence and accommoda-
tion of thirty or forty inmates — the Convent of
the Sisters of Mercy." This edifice, then, which
was founded in 1839, was the first convent of the
Sisters of Mercy established in the metropolis.
The convent adjoins the Roman Catholic Church
of the Most Holy Trinity, which was built from the
designs of Mr. A. W. Pugin. The first stone of
the church was laid in 1834, by Dr. Bramston, the
then Vicar- Apostolic of the London district, and it
was formally opened in the following year. The
church is a fine brick-built structure, in the Early
Pointed style of Gothic architecture. The plot
of ground on which it stands was purchased at
the expense of a benevolent lady, the Baroness

I30

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Bermondsey,

Montesquieu, who also bought and furnished a
well-built house adjoining.

The convent of the Sisters of Mercy is also in
the Gothic style of architecture, in keeping with
the church. Lady Barbara Eyre contributed no
less than ^i,ooo towards its erection. Consider-
able additions were made to the edifice in 1876-7.
In addition to a large school conducted by the
"religious" of Our Lady of Mercy, there are four
other numerously-attended Roman Catholic schools
in this district.

The edifice mentioned above was erected on a
site which had previously served as a tan-yard,
supplied with water from the tide-stream, which at
one time passed close to the convent in its progress
from the "Folly" to the neighbourhood of the
Neckinger Mills, of which we have already spoken.

Jamaica Road, which winds eastward in the
direction of Rotherliithe and Deptford, is so
named from an inn called the "Jamaica," which
stood in this immediate neighbourhood, in what is
now Cherry Garden Street, down till a compara-
tively recent date. The house itself, which was
named, in compliment, no doubt, to the island
which was the birthplace of rum, is traditionally
said to have been one of the many residences of
Oliver Cromwell, but we cannot guarantee the
tradition. It is thus mentioned, in a work pub-
lished in 1S54: — "The building, of which only a
moiety now remains, and that very ruinous, the
other having been removed years ago to make
room for modern erections, presents almost the
.same features as when tenanted by the Protector.
The carved quatrefoils and flowers upon the
staircase beams, the old-fashioned fastenings of
the doors — bolts, locks, and bars — the huge single
gable (which in a modern house would be double),
even the divided section, like a monstrous ampu-
tated stump, imperfectly plastered over, patched
here and there with planks, slates, and tiles, to
keep out the wind and weather, though it be very
poorly, all are in keeping ; and the glimmer of the
gas, by which the old and ruinous kitchen is dimly
lighted, seems to 'pale its inofifcctual fire,' in
striving to illuminate the old black settles and still
older wainscot." Mr. J. Larwood, in his " History
of Sign-boards," tells us that after the Restoration
this house became a tavern ; and he reminds us
how, after the homely, kindhcarted custom of the
times, Sam Pepys, on Sunday, April 14, 1667, took
his wife and her maids there to give them a day's
pleasure. " Over the water," writes the Secretary
to the Admiralty in his " Diary," " to the Jamaica
house, where I never was before, and then the
girls did run wagers on tlie bowling-green, and

there with much pleasure spent but little, and so
home." It is added that Pepys appears in after
times to have frequently resorted to this place —
.possibly without madame — and it has been con-
sidered by some writers to be the same which he
elsewhere terms the " Halfway House," probably
in allusion to the dockyard at Deptford. From a
reference to modern maps, however, it would
appear that the " Halfway House " was about a
mile nearer Deptford. A tavern called the "New
Jamaica " has been built on the vi'est side of
Jamaica Level, near the Jamaica Road and Mill
Pond Bridge. At Cherry Garden Stairs, Ber-
mondsey Wall — as that part of the river-side north
of the Jamaica Road is called — was an inn bearing
the sign of the " Lion and Castle." This sign is
often thought to be derived from some of the
maiTiages between our own royal House of Stuart
and that of Spain ; though, as Mr. Larwood says,
we need not accept this version, but may simply
refer to " the brand of Spanish arms on the sherry
casks, and have been put up by the landlord to
indicate the sale of genuine Spanish wines, such as
sack, canary, and mountain."

The Cherry Garden itself, the site of which is
now covered by a street bearing that name, was a
place of public resort in the days of the Stuarts.
It is mentioned by Pepys in his " Diary," under
date 15th June, 1664 : "To Greenwich, and so to
the Cherry Garden, and thence by water, singing
finely, to the bridge, and there landed." Charles
Dickens, too, speaks of the place in one of his
inimitable works.

On the south side of Jamaica Road, and at the
northern end of Spa Road, stands the parish
church of St. James. It is a spacious buikling of
brick and stone. The edifice, which is in the
Grecian style, was built in 1829, and consists
of a nave and side aisles, with a chancel and
vestibules. The west front has a portico in the
centre, composed of four Ionic columns, sur-
mounted by an entablature and pediment. The
steeple, which rises from the centre of this front,
is square in plan, and of four stages or divisions.
The spire is crowned with a vane in the form of
a dragon. In the tower is a fine peal of ten bells.

Among the recently-built churches of Ber-
mondsey arc St. Ann's, Tliorburn Square ; St.
Augustine's, Lynton Road ; and St. Crispin's,
.Southwark Park Road. j

Near St. James's Church is the Spa Road Station, t
on the Deptford and Greenwich Railway. We ;
have already spoken of the formation of this line of
railway ; but it may not be out of place to add here >
that few persons are aware of the enormous traffic

Bermondsey.]

RAILWAY TRAFFIC THROUGH BERMONDSEY.

131

passing daily in each direction between London
Bridge Station and Spa Road, where the railway
assumes its greatest width. The accompanying
diagram, which represents the number of Hnes of

i I

RAILWAY LINES THROUGir BERMONDSEY, LOOKING
EASTWARD.*

railway seen at a point about a mile east of the
London Bridge Station, will give some idea of what
this traffic really is. A passenger travelling over
this particular spot will see eight lines of rails,
besides the one on which he is travelling, and
over nearly all these lines trains are constantly
passing. This is more than double the width of ;
any other railway in England, the utmost number
of pairs of rails seen elsewhere being four. The 1
line numbered No. i is the up line from Green-
wich, which, to avoid crossing from side to side
at a point more distant, is on the left hand in-
stead of the right ; the down line to Greenwich 1
being the same as that used for the North Kent,
Mid Kent, &c. (No. 2). No. 3 is the North Kent
and Mid Kent up line. Over No. 4 run the ,
main line and many of the suburban down trains of
the Brighton Company, as well as a few trains of j
the South-Eastem Company. No. 7 is the South
London down line to Victoria, Sutton, &c. Till
about the year 1868, when the South London line
was opened, there were six lines of rails running
side by side for the first mile and a half from
London Bridge. The South London first branches
off on the right, and at some distance lower down
Nos. 4, 5, and 6 diverge from Nos, i, 2, 3 ; and a
short distance farther, the North Kent line parts ,
company with the Greenwich, which for the rest of
the distance pursues its course alone to Deptford
and Greenwich. Between 6.0 a.m. and 12.0 mid-
night, over line No. 2 pass daily about 48 trains to
Greenwich, about 20 for the Mid Kent Branch,

' The «a" indicates the direction in which each train is proceeding.

about 82 for the North Kent line, and about 40
of the South-Eastem main line trains : total, with
engines and empties, 227. Over No. 4, during
the same period, the South-Eastem and Brighton
and South-Coast Companies run 119 trains and
59 engines and empties. Over No. 7 also about
100 trains pass to Victoria, via Peckham, and
also to Wimbledon, Sutton, Croydon, and Clap-
ham Junction, &c. Thus, without reckoning the
extra trains on Saturdays, we have the astonish-
ing number of 500 trains running daily, in one
direction, over three lines of railway for compara-
tively short distances ; and if to this number we
add the return trains running over lines Nos.
I) 3i 5) 6, 8, 9, we have more than 1,000 trains
running for the accommodation of persons
residing principally in the southern suburbs of
London.

In Drummond Road, close by St. James's
Church, is the biscuit factory of Messrs. Peek,
Frean, and Co. The manufactory covers a large
space of ground immediately on the north side of
the railway, near the Spa Road Station. It com-
prises several high blocks of buildings, for the most
part connected with each other, and gives em-
ployment to a very large number of hands. In
the centre of the building is a lofty clock-tower.

The Blue Anchor Road — so named from a
tavern bearing that sign, at the corner of Blue
Anchor Lane — commences at the Grange Road,
and winding in a north-easterly direction under
the railway, and so on to the end of the Jamaica
Road, forms the boundary between the parishes
of Bermondsey and Rotherhithe. In a map of
London and its environs, published in 1828, and
also in Coghlan's map (1834), the whole of this
thoroughfare, which in those times had but few
houses built along it, is marked as "Blue Anchor
Road ; " but in the Post Office Directory of the
present day, that part of the road lying northward
of the railway is called " Jamaica Level," the west
side being entered as belonging to the parish
of Bermondsey, and the east side to that of
Rotherhithe. In the maps above mentioned a
narrow roadway running eastward across the
market-gardens is marked as the "Galley Wall."
This thoroughfare, which diverges from the Blue
Anchor Road at the point where the latter passes
under the railway, is now almost entirely built
upon on both sides, and has been for many years
known as the Manor Road. In the early part
of the year 1877, however, the Commissioners
of the Board of Works caused it to resume its
original name of " Galley Wall." What may have
been the origin of that name it is now somewhat

132

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tBerm'.ndsey.

difficult to decide. Close by the eastern end of
this roadway there was till within the last few
years a narrow canal or ditch winding its sluggish
course from the Thames, across the Deptford
Road, and through the fields and market-gardens,
in a south-westerly direction. This ditch, although
for the most part now filled up and obliterated, is
the boundary line separating the counties of Kent
and Surrey.

was employed in making the 'great wet dock at
Rotherhithe ' in the year 1694, and who remem-
bered that in the course of that work a consider-
able body of fagots and stakes were discovered,"
which Maitland considers as "part of the works
intended to strengthen the banks of the canal."
Allen adds, in his " History of London," a remark
to the effect that " it is allowed by many eminent
antiquaries that there might have been such a

ST. JAMES'S CHURCH, BERMONDSEV.

It is said by historians that in order to reduce
London, Knute cut a trench or canal through
the marshes on the south of tlie Thames ; and
Maitland considered that he had discovered its
course, from its " influx into the Thames at the
lower end of Chelsea Reach " through the Spring
Garden at Vauxhall, by the Black Prince at
Kennington, and tlie south of Newington Butts, and
across the Deptford Road, to its " outflux where
the great wet dock below Rotherhithe is situated."

It is quite possible that Maitland was rather
credulous, like many other antiquaries and topo-
graphers ; though certainly it ouglit to be added
that he does not " speak without book," but
honestly gives liis authority ; for he says that he
" inquired of a carpenter named Webster, who

water-course as Maitland describes from the wet
dock at Deptford round by St. Thomas h. Watering
and Newington Butts, quite up to Vauxhall, and
into the Thames at Chelsea Reach." It has been
suggested that the ditch here referred to may have
been the same which we have mentioned above
as passing by the end of Galley Wall ; and that
there may have been near this spot, in very remote
times, a " wall " or landing-stage for the shipment
of merchandise from the ancient " galleys." The
trade of the Venetians in the spices and other
merchandise which they brought overland from
India and sent to London in their "galleys" has
passed away ; and few are reminded by the name
of "Galley Quay," in Thames Street, that their
proud argosies were once accustomed to ride at

Bermondsey.l

THE HALFPENNY HATCH.

133

anchor there. It is just possible that there may
have been a similar quay — or galley wall — at this
spot for the use of the inhabitants of the south
side of the Thames.

It may be here remarked that in the early part

in a summer evening indulge in an hour or two
of delightful musing and wholesome promenade."
The locality here referred to lies about midway
between Long Lane and Kent Street, near the
junction of Baalzephon and Hunter Streets.

ROTHERHITHE CHURCH, 1750. {See pa^e 1^6.)

of the present century there were pleasant walks
about the Kent Road and Bermondsey where
we should now look in vain for rural enjoyments.
The favourite route from Southwark to the Old
Kent Road was by way of the Halfpenny Hatch,
the name of which is still retained, though the
poplars and willows, and airy walks by the side of
the small canals, are no more. " It is," writes an
enthusiastic cockney of our grandfathers' times,
"a delightful spot, where the pensive mind may
252

We may remark here, by way of a conclusion to
this chapter, that Bermondsey and Rotherhithe
are both well matched in point of filth, dirt, and
unsavoury smells with their neighbour across the
river — Wapping. But squalid as is their general
appearance, they abound in wealth, the fruits of
industry and labour, no inconsiderable portion of
it their own, while the remainder is stored up and
warehoused within their boundaries for the con-
venience of their richer neighbours.

134

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Rotherhitho.

CHAPTER XI.
ROTHERHITHE.

'* Farewell to Kent-street garrison,
Farewell to Hcrsly-down,
And all the smirking wenches
That dwell in Redriff town."

Roxburgh Ballads — " The Merry Man's Resolutions."

Derivation of the Name of Rotherhithe— The Place frequently called Redriff— Knut's Trench— History of the Descent of the Manor — Traditional
Visit of Charles II. to Rotherhithe — Dreadful Fire in Rotherhithe — Condition of Rotherhithe at the Commencement of the Present Century
Mill Pond — Vineyards in Rotherhithe— Southwark Park — The "Halfpenny Hatch" — China Hall — The "Dog and Duck"— St. Mary's
Church— Christ Church — All Saints' Church — St. Barnabas Church — The Skeleton of a Giant — Spread of Education in Rotherhithe and
Bermondsey — Noted Residents in Rotherhithe — St. Helena Tea-gardens — The Thames Tunnel — The Commercial Docks, and the Grand
Surrey Canal — t^uckold's Point — The King and the Miller's Wife.

Rotherhithe, or, as it is occasionally called,
" Redriff," is worthy of note as the first place where
docks were constructed for the convenience of
London. The parish adjoins Bermondsey on the
east, and extends along the southern shore of the
Thames as far as Deptford. The compiler of the
" New View of London," published in 1708, con-
siders Rotherhithe as " equivalent to ' Red Rose
Haven,' probably from some such sign being there,
as ' Rother ' Lane (now called Pudding Lane) had
that name from the sign of a red rose there."
Northouck, too, supports this view, telling us that
the name of the place was formerly Red Rose
Hithe, "from the sign of the Red Rose." Mait-
land, however, with greater reason, supposes the
name to be of Saxon origin, and tiiat it was derived
from the two words, redhra, a mariner, and /tytk,
a haven. Hithe, or hythe, as is well known, is a
common name for the lower port or haven of
maritime towns, such as Colchester, Southampton,
&c. Rotherhithe, we may remark, was chiefly in-
habited a hundred years ago, as now, by seafaring
persons and tradesmen whose business depended
on seamen and shipping. The place is summarily
dispatched in the "Ambulator" for 1774, in the
following terms : — " Rotherhith {sic), vulgarly called
Rederiff, was anciently a village on the south-east
of London, though it is now joined on to South-
wark, and as it is situated along the south bank
of the Thames, is chiefly inhabited by masters
of ships and other seafaring people." It will
be remembered that Gay, in the Bej:^ar's Opera,
makes mention of the place in the following
lines : —

Filch. These seven Iiandkcrchicfs, madam.

Mrs. Peachum. Coloured ones, I see. They are of sure
sale, from our warehouse at Redriflf among the seamen.

The place appears to have gone by the name of
Redriff as long ago as the reign of Edward I. It
is fretiuently mentioned by Pepys in his " Diary,"
and always by the appellation of Rcdritf.

It was at Rotherhithe that Kint Knut is said

to have begun his famous trench to Vauxhall, for
the purpose of laying siege to London, as stated
in a previous chapter.* The channel through
which the tide of the Thames was turned in the
year when London Bridge was first built of stone,
is supposed by Stow and by several antiquaries to
have followed the same course, though many writers
have dissented from this view.

In a grant of the time of Edward III., by which
Constance, then Prior of Bermondsey, assigned
certain messuages to the king, the name is spelt
" Rethereth." At the time of the Domesday survey
the place was included in the royal manor of Ber-
mondsey ; but Henry I. granted part of it to his
natural son Robert, Earl of Gloucester. In the
reign of Edward III. one of the two manors into
which Rotherhithe was divided belonged to the
Abbey of St. Mary of Grace, on Tower Hill ; but
in the following year it was devised to the con-
vent of St. Mary Magdalen, at Bermondsey, whose
sisterhood already possessed that portion of the
other manor which had not been given to the Earl
of Gloucester. About the middle of the fifteenth
century the manor appears to have come into
possession of the Lovel family. It was at this time
a place of some note. In the reign of Edward III.
a fleet had been fitted out there by order of the
Black Prince and John of Gaunt. Afterwards
Henry IV. resided tliere in an old stone house,
when afflicted with leprosy ; he is said to have
dated two charters thence. The Lovel family
highly distinguished themselves during the wars of
the Roses, on the Lancastrian side. When Richard
of Gloucester ascended the throne, Francis Lord
Lovel was made Lord Chamberlain, and so great
was his influence with his royal master that he
was joined with Catesbyand Ratclilfe in the familiar
couplet —

" The Cat, tlie Kat, and Lovel the Dog
Rule all Kngland under a Hog;"

.* Sec antt, pp. 4 and 131.

Rotherhithe.]

MILL POND.

135

Kichard's emblem, the boar, being of course in-
tended by the last-named animal. Lovel fought
well at Bosworth, and was fortunate enough lo
escape to Burgundy after the defeat. He re-
turned in the following year, and, in conjunction
with Lord Staft'ord, raised forces in Worcestershire,
which the king's troops, commanded by the Duke
of Bedford, soon dispersed. Lovel re-appeared on
the scene in May, 1487, with the Germans, under
command of the Earl of Lincoln and Martin
Jiwartz, who came over to support the claims of
1 .ambert Simnel. They were defeated at Stoke-
iipon-Trent, and the Earl of Lincoln, with 4,000 of
his men, was killed. Lovel escaped, but his fate
is uncertain. Holinshed says he was slain, but
many years afterwards a skeleton was discovered
liidden away in the old manor-house of Minster
Lovel, which, from the remains of the dress and
other circumstances, was supposed to be that of
the great Lord Lovel, who had hidden from pur-
suit, and was starved to death.

In 1 5 16, Lovel being dead and gone, the Ber-
mondsey monks claimed the manor of Rother-
hithe, and gained it; but they did not long enjoy
their possession, for in the year 1538 it was surren-
dered to the king, and remained royal property till
Charles I. granted it to Sir Allen Apsley.

We hear and read but little of Rotherhithe
during the next century or so. It is true that there
is a dim and misty tradition of Charles II. on one
occasion having made a frolicsome excursion to
this neighbourhood ; but probably that was a very
exceptional case, his Majesty's frolics being mostly
restricted to the Court quarter of the town ; or, if
he crossed the river, it was mostly in the direction
of Lambeth and Vauxhall. Evelyn records in his
"Diary," under date June 11, 1699, a dreadful fire
near the Thames side here, which destroyed nearly
300 houses, and burnt also "divers ships." On
the ist of June, 1765, another terrible fire, caused
by a pitch-kettle boiling over, broke out in Princes
Street, Rotherhithe, and before it 'could be extin-
guished more than 200 houses, besides warehouses
and other buildings, were entirely consumed, re-
ducing at least 250 families to the most terrible
distress. This conflagration was doubtless of some
service in clearing the close mass of ill-built
houses, and causing the erection of a better class
of edifices.

At the beginning of the present century Rother-
hithe consisted of a few streets, with good gardens
to the houses, extending from the Blue Anchor
Road (the boundary between Bermondsey and
Rotherhithe) to Hanover Street, beyond which
were marshes intersected by sluggish, dirty streams.

The southern limit of the houses followed the
line of Paradise Street and Adam Street, leading
from Blue Anchor Road to the end of the Dept-
ford Lower Road. Blue Anchor Road (the river
end of which was called West Lane) ran south-
wards, skirting the dirty streams and stagnant
pools of Milford, to the end of Rogue's Lane,
which ran through marshy fields to the " Halfway
House," past the "St. Helena" tavern and tea-
gardens. Near the "Halfway House" — which,
by the way, was a neighbourhood noted as a
resort of footpads — at the top of Trundley's Lane
stood a few houses, still existing, and named
Mildmay Houses. There were a few plots of
market-garden ground here and there to be seen,
near the spot now occupied by the Grand Surrey
Docks, and adjoining Globe Stairs Alley, in the
Blue Anchor Road ; but the greater portion of the
entire district between Rotherhithe and the Kent
Road consisted of marshy fields. Mill Pond was
the name given to a number of tidal ditches—
not unlike those of Jacob's Island — which inter-
sected the space between Blue Anchor Road and
the Deptford Lower Road. A larger stream dis-
charged itself into the Thames at King's Mill ;
but that disappeared when the Grand Surrey
Docks were constructed. Within the last half
century the inhabitants of the streets around Mill
Pond were dependent upon these dirty tidal
ditches for their supply of water, which was fetched
in pails. Of late years, however. Mill Pond has
been drained away, and rows of houses, some
known as Jamaica Level, occupy the site.

Few Londoners, at first sight, would suspect
Rotherhithe of having a soil or situation well suited
to the growth of vines ; but such would appear to
have been once the case, if we may believe
Hughson, who tells us, in his " History and Survey
of London and its Suburbs," that an attempt was
made in 1725, in East Lane, within this parish, to
restore the cultivation of the vine, which, whether
from the inauspicious climate of our island, or from
want of skill in the cultivation, was at that time
nearly lost, though there are authentic documents
to prove that vineyards* did flourish in this countiy
in ancient times. It appears that about the time
indicated a gentleman named Warner, observing
that the Burgundy grapes ripened early, and con-
ceiving that they might be grown in England,
obtained some cuttings, which he planted here as
sUndards ; and Hughson records the fact that
though the soil was not particularly suited, yet, by
care and skill, he was rewarded by success, and

• See Vol. IV., p. 4-

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Rotherhithe.

that his crop was so ample that it afforded liim
upwards of one liundred gallons annually, and
that he was enabled to supply cuttings of his vines
for cultivation in many other parts of this island.

At about the middle of that part of the Blue
Anchor Road which is now called Jamaica Level,
arc the gates and lodge-house of Southwark Park,
which stretches away eastward to Rotherhithe New
Road, and northward to the Union Road and
Deptford Lower Road, in each of which thorough-
fares there are entrances. The park, which covers
about seventy acres of ground, was laid out and
opened in 1S69, under the auspices of the late
Metropolitan Board of Works. It comprises an
open level piece of turf available for cricket — not,
perhaps, to be compared with " Lord's" — and also
several plots of ground laid out as ornamental
flower-gardens, interspersed with shrubs and trees.
In one part of the grounds, near the entrance
from Jamaica Level, are two mounds formed by
the earth which was excavated from under the
bed of the river during the construction of the
Thames Tunnel.

Before the formation of this park all the land
hereabout consisted of fields and market-gardens,
some considerable portion of which still exist in
the neighbourhood of Rotherhithe and Deptford
in all their freshness. We may remark here that
the market-gardening — not only in these parts, but
also in the districts near Battersea, Fulham, Ham-
mersniitli, and more remote parts — has attained
a perfection which renders it a beautiful as well
as interesting sight to e.xamine the regularity and
richness of the crops, the rapid system of clearing
and fresh-cropping, and the mode of preparing
and packing the produce for market. Perhaps in
no one department has English gardening arrived at
more excellence, or is managed with more method
and skill, than is to be witnessed in the market-
gardens which supply the metropolis.

In former times a narrow pathway, called the
"Halfpenny Hatch,'' extended through the meadows
and market-gardens from Blue Anchor Road to
the Deptford Lower Road, where it emerged close
by an old and much-freijuented public-house called
the " China Hall." The ancient tavern, which
was a picturesque building ])artly surrounded by
an external gallery, was pulled down within the
last few years, and in its place has been erected
a more modern-looking tavern, bearing the same
sign. Our old friend I'epys mentions going to
China Hall, but gives us no further particulars.
"It is not unlikely," says Mr. Larwood in his
" History of Sign-boards," " that this was the same
place which, in the summer of 1777, was opened

as a theatre. Whatever its use in former times,
it was at that time the warehouse of a paper
manufacturer. In those days the West End often
visited the entertainments of the East, and the
new theatre was sufficiently patronised to enable
the proprietors to venture upon some embellish-
ments. The prices were — boxes, 3s. ; pit, 2s. ;
gallery is.; and the time of commencing varied
from half-past six to seven o'clock, according to
the season. The Wonder, Love in a Village, the
Comical Courtship, and the Lying Valet were
among the plays performed. The famous €!ooke
was one of the actors in the season of 1778. In
that same year the building suffered the usual
fate of all theatres, and was utterly destroyed by
fire."

The Halfpenny Hatch was continued beyond
the " China Hall," across the fields in the rear, to
the " Dog and Duck " tavern, near the entrance
to the Commercial Docks. Any one patronising
the " China Hall," and partaking of refreshment,
had the privilege of passing through the " Half-
penny Hatch " without payment of the halfpenny
toll.

With respect to the sign of the " Dog and
Duck," we need hardly remark that it refers to
a barbarous pastime of our ancestors, when ducks
were hunted in a pond by spaniels.* The pleasure
consisted in seeing the duck make her escape
from the dog's mouth by diving. It was much
practised in the neighbourhood of London, and
particularly in these southern suburbs, till the begin-
ning of this century, when it went out of fashion, as
most of the ponds were gradually built over.

The parish church of Rotherhithe is dedicated
to St. Mary, and stands not for from the river-side.
It is built of brick, with stone quoins, and consists
of a nave, chancel, and two aisles, supported with
pillars of the Ionic order. At the west end is a
square tower, upon wiiich is a stone spire, sup-
ported by Corinthian columns. The church was
built in the early part of the last century, on tlie
site of an older edifice, wliich had stood for four
hundred years, but which had at length become so
ruinous that Parliament was applied to for per-
mission to pull it down. The present church has
lately been thoroughly "restored," and the old
unsightly pews of our grandfathers' time have been
superseded by open benches. In the cliurchyard
lies buried an individual with whose name and
affecting history the youth of this country must still
be familiar — we refer to Lee Boo, Prince of the
PcUew Islands, who died in London from the

• Sec Vol, IV., p. 351.

Folhcrhithe.]

ROTHERHITHE CHURCH.

137

effects of the small-pox in 1784, when only twenty
years of age, after he had learned the manners and
studied the civilisation of Europe, widi the view of
introducing them into his native country. He was
tlie son of Abba ThuUe, rupack or king of the
island of Coo-roo-raa, one of the Pellew group in
the Indian Ocean. In August, 1783, the Antelope
frigate was wrecked off the island, and so great
was the kindness of the king to Captain Wilson
and the crew, that the captain offered to take his
son to England to be educated. Young Lee
Boo, an amiable young man, accordingly visited
this country, but died in the following year, as
stated above. The epitaph on his tomb concludes
with the following couplet : —

" Stop, reader, stop ! Let Nature claim a tear,
A Prince of mine, Lee Boo, lies buried here."

There are no monuments of any interest within
the walls of the church, but in the vestry is pre-
served a portrait of Charles I. in his robes, kneel-
ing at a table and holding a crown of thorns.
This portrait, if we may trust Aubrey's " Antiqui-
ties of Surrey," formerly hung in the south aisle
of the church. How it came into the possession
of the parish is not stated.

The church of Rotherhithe is in the diocese of
Rochester, having been transferred to it from that
of Winchester. The advowson formerly belonged
to the priory of Bermondsey, but after the sup-
pression of that monastery it passed through
various hands. In 1721 it was sold to James,
Duke of Chandos, of whom it was purchased a
few years later by the master and fellows of Clare
Hall, Cambridge. Tliere is in the Tower a record
of sundry grants to the rector of Rotherhithe. It
was " presented " to the commissioners appointed
to inquire into the state of ecclesiastical benefices,
in 1658, that the rectory of " Redereth " was worth
about ^92 per annum.

The increase of population, partly owing to the
opening of the extensive docks, was accompanied
by an addition to the number of churches. In the
year 1835 the Commissioners for Building New
Churches gave ^2,000 towards the erection of two
churches, and the trustees of Hyndman's Bounty,
a local charity, offered to build a third.

Christ Church, in Union Road, opposite the
gates on the north side of Southwark Park, is a
plain and unpretending structure, of "debased
Gothic " architecture, and dates its erection from
about the year 1840. Here was buried in 1875
one of the most distinguished of our veteran
generals. Field Marshal Sir William Gomm, Con-
stable of the Tower.

All Saints', in Deptford Lower Road, a Gothic
edifice with a tower, surmounted by a lofty spire,
was built from the designs of Mr. Kempthorne
about the same time as the above, and at a cost of
upwards of ^3,000. Holy Trinity Church, in the
eastern part of the parish, is a spacious edifice, in
the Pointed style, capable of accommodating 1,000
persons. This church was consecrated in 1839.

St. Barnabas' Church, a Gothic brick-built edifice,
in Plough Road, near the Commercial Docks, was
erected mainly through the instrumentality of Sir
William Gomm. It was built in 1872, from the
designs of Mr. Butterfield.

In the Weekly Packet, December 21-28, 1717,
we read : " Last week, near the new church at
Rotherhithe, a stone coffin of a prodigious size was
taken out of the ground, and in it the skeleton of
a man ten feet long ; " but this we do not expect
our readers to accept as literally true.

A free school was founded in the parish of
Rotherhithe about the beginning of the last
century, by Peter Hills and Robert Bell, and
endowed with a small annual income "for the
education of eight sons of seamen, with a salary of
three pounds per annum for the master." The
school-house, which is situated near St. Mary's
Church, was rebuilt by subscription in 1745.
Various benefactions have since been made to the
school, so that the number of scholars has been
considerably increased.

A notice of Bermondsey and Rotherhithe would
scarcely be complete without some reference to
the educational movement which has of late years
sprung up in these parishes, as, indeed, is the case
with most other parishes in the metropolis. In the
Manor Road, Jamaica Level, Rotherhithe New
Road, and other parts, School-Board schools have
been erected, which are altogether architectural
adornments of the neighbourhood. Before the
opening of the Board Schools it appears that
there were in the Southwark district upwards of
42,000 children for whom provision ought to have
been made in elementary schools, but that the
existing accommodation was wholly inadequate,
only about 13,000 children having so much as
their names inscribed on the rolls of the inspected
schools. But since the erection of the schools
above-mentioned large numbers of children have
been added to the rolls, and attempts were at first
made to secure uniformity of fee within each of
the schools. The policy of the regulation seems
doubtful, since every neighbourhood contains a
variety of classes among those depending upon the
elementary schools for education, and the schools
lie at considerable distances from one another.

138

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Rothtrhithe.

" In fixing the uniform fee," as we learn from the
report of Her Majesty's Inspector of Schools for
this district, " if regard is paid to the best class of
the neighbourhood, wrong is done to all with lower
incomes who require schooling ; but if to the
worst, the equitable interests of ratepayers are over-
looked. In one of the large School-Board schools
the weekly fee is 4d. ; in four it is 3d. (including
one temporary school) ; in six it is 2d. (likewise

Jonathan Swift, was born at Rotherhithe, or, as
he styles it, " Redriff"— a fact of which GuUiver
doubtless boasted to his courtly friends at Lilliput
and Brobdingnag. George Lillo, the dramatist,
whose play of George Bar?miell was for many years
the stock piece performed at our theatres before the
pantomime on Boxing-night, is said to have kept a
jeweller's shop at Rotherhithe.

The St. Helena Tea-gardens, in Deptford Road,

DIVING-BEI.L USED IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE THAMES TUNNEL.

including one temporary school) ; and in two of
the new schools it is id." School fees arc now
abolished.

Between the years 1740 and 1750 the manor
of Rotherhithe was held by Admiral Sir Charles
Wager. Another renowned admiral, Sir John
Leake, was bom in this parish in 1656, and was
buried here sixty-four years afterwards. " Redriff"
also long laid claim to brave old Admiral Benbow
as a son of the soil. Allen, in his " History of
Surrey," says he " was born in WintersliuU Street,
now called Hanover Street ;" curious biographers,
however, have discovered that the stout old sailor
first saw the light at Shrewsbury. Another well-
known hero, but in a diflcrunt line of life, Lemuel
Gulliver, according to his veracious biographer,

were opened in 1770, and, after undergoing sundry
vicissitudes, ceased to exist in 1881, and their site
has since been built upon. A newspaperadverti.se-
ment in May, 1776, announces that there are " tea,
coffee, and rolls every day, with music and dancing
in the evening." The place was chiefly supported
by the lower classes of the neighbourhood, the
families of men who worked in the docks. In
the summer there were brass bands and dancing
platforms, singing, tumbling, and fireworks, for
the delectation of the merry souls of " Redriff; "
but the place never attained more than a local
celebrity, or affected to be a rival of Ranclagh or
Vauxhall.

A notice of KotiuThithe would be incomplete
without at least some reference tf tixat grand

RotheiMthe.]

THE THAMES TUNNEL.

139

triumph of engineering skill, the Thames Tunnel,
connecting Rotherhithe and Wapping, We have
already spoken at some length of this great work ;*
but, nevertheless, a few more words concerning it
may not be out of place here. In 1805 a company
was incorporated as the Thames Archway Com-

yet George Stephenson achieved that feat ; and
another great engineering genius, Isambard Brunei,
happening, about the year 181 4, to observe in the
dockyard at Chatham the little passages bored
through timber by a marine insect, took from it
a hint as to the construction of tunnels. In

FLOATING DOCK, DErTFORD (1820).

pany. A shaft was sunk at Rotherhithe, and a
driftway pushed to within 200 feet of the Lime-
house shore. Then the water broke in, and the
project was given up. More than fifty engineers
of eminence declared it to be impracticable to con-
struct a tunnel of any useful size beneath the bed
of the Thames. But as much was said afterwards
against carrying a railroad across Chat Moss, and

•See Vol n., p. iii,itttj.

course of time he matured the idea. In 1824 a
company was formed, and Brunei set to work, and
with his celebrated "shield," an adaptation and
imitation of the " teredo," or marine worm, began
the great tunnel. There were many mishaps.
Twice the water broke in. Then came want of
funds, and the work was suspended for seven
years. Public subscriptions raised ^S,ooo, and
once more Brunei set to work. On the 2Sth of
March, 1843, the tunnel was opened as a public

140

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Rolherhithe.

thoroughfare, and the successful engineer was
knighted by Queen Victoria. Of the diving-bell
used in the construction of the Thames Tunnel we
give an illustration on page 138. During the sus-
pension of the work, great doubt was often expressed
as to whether the tunnel would ever be completed.
Tom Hood wrote an " Ode to iVL Brunei," in
which occur these lines : —

" Other great speculations have been nursed,

Till want of proceeds laid them on the shelf:
But thy concern, Brunei, was at the worst.
When it began to liquidate itself."

And again —

" Well ! Monsieur Brunei,
How prospers now thy mighty undertaking.
To join by a hollow way the Bankside friends
Of Rotherhithe and Wapping ?

Never be stopping ;
But poking, groping, in the dark keep making
An archway, underneath the dabs and gudgeons,
For colliermen and pitchy old curmudgeons.
To cross the water in inverse proportion.
Walk under steam-boats, under the keel's ridge,
To keep down all extortion,
And with sculls to diddle London Bridge !
In a fresh hunt a new great bore to worry,
Thou didst to earth thy human terriers follow,
Hopeful at last, from Middlesex to Surrey,

To give us the ' view hollow.' "

We need scarce add that for many years the
great work was numbered with the splendid
failures connected with the name of Brunei ; and
the tunnel, which had cost nearly half a million
of money, became converted into little more than
a penny show. The roadway, which would have
made it available for vehicular traffic, it is stated,
would have required nearly ^200,000 more, and
the money was not forthcoming. As this kind of
approach has now been formed, the tunnel may
be said to have realised its original purpose, though
not in the way designed by Sir M. I. Brunei. In
1 87 1 the tunnel was closed for pedestrians, and
converted into a railway in connection with the
East London line. This railway passes, by a
gradual incline from the station of the Brighton
and South-Coast line at New Cross, tlirough the
market gardens on the south side of Dcptford
Lower Road. Near the St. Helena Estate there
is a station for the convenience of this rapidly-
increasing district. Thence, passing under the
roadway, the line skirts tlie south-west side of the
Commercial Docks, and then shortly afterwards
finds its level at the mouth of the tunnel, where
there is another station, between si.xty and seventy
feet below the surface of the ground.

Rotherhithe has been for a considerable period
celebrated for its docks. The great dry dock licre
has existed for nearly two centuries, Jiaving been

opened in 1696; the great wet dock was finished
in the year 1700. After the bursting of the South
Sea Bubble in 1720, the directors took a lease of
this dock, where their ships, then engaged in the
whale-fisheries of Greenland, landed their cargoes
of unfragrant blubber. The docks, known as the
Commercial, are still used for the same purposes.
Adjoining to them are the Great East Country
Dock, and several smaller ones. From the situa-
tion of these very extensive docks, which include
within their boundaries nearly a hundred acffes,
of which about eighty are water, they might doubt-
less be made, now that the trade of the port of
London has so wonderfully increased, to rank
among the most prosperous establishments of our
metropolitan harbour.

The Commercial Docks and Timber Ponds, and
also the East Country Dock, are now incorporated
with the Grand Surrey Canal Dock, the opening
of which into the Thames is about two miles below
London Bridge. In the Timber Ponds and East
Country Docks, timber, com, hemp, flax, tallow,
and other articles, which pay a small duty, and are
of a bulky nature, remain in bond, and the sur-
rounding warehouses are chiefly used as granaries,
the timber remaining afloat in the dock until it
is conveyed to the yards of the wholesale dealer
and the builder. The Surrey Dock is merely an
entrance basin to a canal, and can accommodate
300 vessels ; whilst the warehouses, chiefly grana-
ries, will contain about 4,000 tons of goods. The
Commercial Docks, a little lower down the river,
occupy an area of about forty-nine acres, of which
four-fifths are water, and there is accotiimodation
for 350 ships, and in the warehouses for 50,000
tons of merchandise. They were used originally,
as stated above, for the shipping employed in the
Greenland fishery, and provided with the necessary
apparatus for boiling down the blubber of whales ;
but the whale fishery being given up, the docks
were, about the year 1807, appropriated to vessels
engaged in the European timber and corn trade,
and ranges of granaries were built. The East
Country Dock, which adjoins the Commercial
Docks on the south, is capable of receiving twenty-
eight timber ships, and was constructed about the
same i)eriod for like purposes. It has an area of
about six acres and a half, and warehouse-room
for nearly 4,000 tons.

The various docks and basins embraced in the
elaborate system belonging to the Surrey Com-
mercial Dock Company are no less than tliirteen
in number, and arc named respectively the Main
l^ock, the Stave Dock, the Russia Dock, Qucl)ec
Pond, Canada Pond, Albion Pond, Centre Pond,

Rotherhithe.]

THE COMMERCIAL DOCKS.

14T

Lady Dock, Acorn Pond, Island Dock, Norway
Dock, Greenland Dock, and South Dock.

In all that concerns the bustle of trade and
industry, no capital in the world can compare with
London. Foreign travellers, like the Viscount
D'Arlingcourt, own that the Neva is in this re-
spect as far below the Thames as it is above it in
splendid buildings and scenery. " What can be
more wonderful," he asks, " than its docks ? Those
vast basins, in the midst of which are barracked
whole legions of vessels, which the sovereign of
maritime cities receives daily ? These vessels enter
thither from the Thames by a small canal, which
opens for their admittance and closes after them.
The docks are surrounded by immense warehouses,
where all the products of tlie universe are collected
together, and where each ship unloads its wealth.
It would be impossible, without seeing it, to fancy
the picture presented by these little separate har-
bours in the midst of an enormous city, where an
innumerable population of sailors, shopkeepers,
and artisans are incessantly and tumultuously
hurrying to and fro."

"In 1558," writes Mr. Charles Knight in his
" London," " certain wharfs, afterwards known as
the " Legal Quays," were appointed to be the
sole landing-places for goods in the port of
London. They were situated between Billingsgate
and the Tower, and had a frontage of 1,464 feet
by 40 wide, and of this space 300 feet were taken
up by landing-stairs and by the coasting- trade,
leaving, in the year 1796, only 1,164 for the use
of the foreign trade. Other wharfs had, it is true,
been added from time to time, five of these
' sufferance wharfs,' as they were called, being on
the northern side of the river, and sixteen on the
opposite side, comprising altogether a frontage of
3,676 feet. The warehouses belonging to the
' sufferance wharfs ' were capable of containing
125,000 tons of merchandise, and 78,800 tons
could be stowed in the yards. The want of ware-
house room was so great that sugars were deposited
in warehouses on Snow Hill, and even in 0-xford
Street. Wine, spirits, and the great majority of
articles of foreign produce, especially those on
wliich the higher rates of duties were charged,
could be landed only at the Legal Quays. In
1793 sugars were allowed to be landed at the
sufferance wharfs, but the charges were higher
than at the Legal Quays ; extra fees had to be
paid to the revenue officers for attendance at them,
though at the same time they were inconveniently
situated, and at too great a distance from the
centre of business. The above concession to
the sufferance wharfs was demanded by common

sense and necessity, for the ships entered with
sugar increased from 203 in 1756, to 433, of
larger dimensions, in 1794. Generally speaking,
the sufferance wharfs were used chiefly by vessels
in the coasting trade, and for such departments of
the foreign trade as could not by any possibility
be accommodated at the Legal Quays. Even in
1765 commissions appointed by the Court of
Exchequer had reported that the latter were ' not
of sufficient extent, from which delays and many
extraordinary expenses occur, and obstructions to
the due collection of the revenue.' But the com-
merce of London had wonderfully increased since
that time, its progress in the twenty-five years, from
1770 to 1795 having been as great as in the first
seventy years of the century." Among the various
plans for docks, quays, and warehouses, which were
drawn up at the end of the last century, with
the view of remedying the evils spoken of above,
was one which displayed considerable ingenuity,
and consisted, in fact, of four distinct projects :
— I. To form a new channel for the river in a
straight line from Limehouse to Blackwall ; the
Long Reach round the Isle of Dogs thus con-
stituting a dock with flood-gates at each entrance.
2. To continue the new channel below Blackwall
towards Woolwich Reach, so as to convert another
bend of the old channel into a dock. 3. To make
a new channel from Wapping, and to form three
docks out of the three bends, to be called Ratclifte
Dock, Blackwall Dock, and Greenwich Dock.
The Trinity House objected that the King's Dock
at Deptford would be injured by the latter plan,
on which it was proposed — 4. To make a new
channel from Wapping to the old channel between
Greenland Dock (now the Commercial Docks)
and Deptford, thence inclining to the northward
until it opened into Woolwich Reach, thus forming
two spacious docks out of the bends of the river
(above and below) at Blackwall.

Tlie Commercial Docks have an entrance from
the Thames, between Randall's Rents and Dog-
and-Duck Stairs, nearly opposite the King's Arms
Stairs in the Isle of Dogs. They are the property
of the Surrey Commercial Dock Company. A
considerable extension of their area has been made
within the last few years, with a view to meeting
the increased requirements of the timber trade
in the port of London, by the addition of a new
dock which has been named the Canada Dock.
It is 1,500 feet in length, 500 feet in width, and
has a water area of sixteen acres and a half. It
communicates with the Albion Dock by an entrance
fifty feet in width, and tlie quay space around is
upwards of twenty-one acres in extent.

142

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Rotherhithe.

On the river-side of the Commercial Docks, just
below Rotherhithe Church, at the bend in the river
forming the commencement of Limehouse Reach,
is "Cuckold's Point," which was formerly distin-
guished by a tall pole with a pair of horns on
the top, and concerning which a singular story is
told. From this point of the river, lying away to
the right above Greenwich, is seen the village of
Charlton, with which the tradition is connected.
The manor-house there, of which we shall have
more to say presently, although built only in the

J reign of James I., was long called King John's
Palace by the country people, who doubtless con-
founded it with the old palace at Eltham in the
vicinity, which, however, was not itself in existence
in Kmg John's day. " The Charlton people, how-
ever," writes Dr. Mackay in his " Thames and its
Tributaries," " cling to King John, and insist that
their celebrated Horn Fair, held annually on the
i8th of October, was estabhshed by that monarch.
Lysons, in his ' Environs of London,' mentions
it as a vague and idle tradition ; and such, perhaps,
it is ; but, as we are of opinion that the traditions
of the people are always worth preserving, we will
repeat the legend, and let the reader value it at
its proper worth. King John, says the old story,
being wearied with hunting on Shooter's Hill and
Blackheath, entered the house of a miller at
Charlton to repose himself. He found no one
at home but the mistress, who was young and
beautiful ; and being himself a strapping fellow,
handsome withal, and with a glosing tongue, he,
in a very short time — or as we would say in the
present day, in no time — made an impression upon
her too susceptible heart. He had just ventured
to give the first kiss upon her lips when the
miller opportunely came home and caught them.
Being a violent man, and feeling himself wounded
in the sorest part, he drew his dagger, and rushing
at the king, swore he would kill them both. The
jioct of all time hath said, ' that a divinity doth
hedge a king ; ' but the miller of Charlton thought
such proceedings anything but divine, and would
no doubt have sent him unannealed into the other
world if John had not disclosed his rank. His
divinity then became apparent, and the nuller, put-
ting up his weapon, begged that at least he would
make him some amends for the wrong he had
done him. Th' king consented, upon condition
also that he would forgive his wife, and bestowed

' upon him all the land visible from ('harlton to
that bend of the river beyond Rotherhithe where
the pair of horns are now (1840) fixed upon tlie
pole. He also gave him, as lord of the nmnor,
the jirivilege of an annual fair on the i8tli of

October, the day when this occurrence took place.
His envious compeers, unwilling that the fame ol
this event should die, gave the awkward name oi
Cuckold's Point to the river boundary of his
property, and called the fair ' Horn Fair,' which
it has borne ever since." Peter Cunningham, in
his " Handbook of London," thus gives his version
of the story : — " King John, weaned with hunting
on Shooter's Hill and Blackheath, entered the
house of a miller at Charlton to refresh and rest
himself. He found no one at home but the miller's
wife, young, it is said, and beautiful. The miller,
it so happened, was earlier in coming home than
was usual when he went to Greenwich with his
meal ; and red and raging at what he saw on
his return, he drew his knife. The king being
unarmed, thought it prudent to make himself
known, and the miller, only too happy to think
it was no baser individual, asked a boon of the
king. The king consented, and the miller was
told to clear his eyes, and claim the long strip of
land he could see before him on the Charlton side
of the river Thames. The miller cleared his eyes,
and saw as far as the point near Rotherhithe.
The king admitted the distance, and the miller
was put into possession of the property on one
condition — that he should walk annually on that
day, the i8th of October, to the farthest bounds
of the estate with a pair of buck's horns upon his
head." Of this tradition our readers may believe
as much, or as little, as they please. " Horn
Fair," adds Mr. Cunningham, " is still kept every
1 8th of October, at the pretty little village of
Charlton, in Kent ; and the watermen on the
Thames at Cuckold's Point still tell the story (with
many variations and additions) of the jolly miller
and his light and lovely wife." The horns, we need
scarcely add, have long disappeared from Cuckold's
Point, and the disreputable fair formerly hold at
Charlton has, fortunately, now become a thing of
the past.

Taylor, the " water-poet," makes mention of the
above tradition in the following lines : —
" And passing further, I at first observed
That Cuckold's Haven was but badly served :
For there old Time hath such confusion wro\rght,
That of that ancient place remained nought.
No monumenl.al memorable Horn,
Or tree, or post, which hath those trophies borne,
W.is left, whereby posterity m.ay know
Where their forefathers' crests <li(l grow, or show.
Why, then, for shame this worthy ])ort maintain?
Let's have o\ir Tree an<l Morns set up again.
That passengers may sliow obedience to it,
In putting off their hats, and homage do it.
But holhi. Muse, no longer be offcndeil ;
'Tis worthily rei>aired and bravely mended. '*

Deplford.)

THE RAVENSBOURNE.

143

CHAPTER XII.
DEPTFORD.

** Such place hath Deptford, navy-buUding town." — Pope.

derivation of the Name of Deptford— Division of the Parish— The River Ravcnsboume— The Royal Dockyard— Sii- Francis Drake's Ship, the
Golden HinJ—Kefcrcnces to Deptford in the Diaries of Evelyn and Pepys— Peter the Great as a Shipwright— Captain Cook's Ships, the
Resolution and the Discovery— 'Rioz'^fhy of Samuel Pepys— Closing of the Dockyard— The Foreign Cattle-Market— Saye's Court— John
Evelyn, the Author of " Sylva "—Evelyn at Home— Grmling Gibbons— Removal of Evelyn to Wolton— Saye's Court let to Admiral Benbow
—Peter the Great as a Tenant— Visit of William Penn, the Quaker— Demolition of Saye's Court— Formation of a Recreation-ground on
its Site— The Royal Victoria Victualling Yard- The Corporation of the Trinity House— The Two Hospitals belonging to the Trinity House
— St. Nicholas' Church— St. Paul's Church— The Roman Catholic Church of the Assumption— St. Luke's Church— The Grand Surrey Canal
—Evelyn's Account of the Capture of a Whale at Deptford— Origin of t!ie Sign of the Black Doll.

The town of Deptford — anciently written Depe-
forii — which Hes on the east side of Rotherhithe,
and stretches away to Lewisham on the south, and
to Greenwich on the east, was, at a very remote
period, known as West Greenwich. It derived its
present name from being the place of a " deep
ford " over the little river, the Ravensbourne, near
its influx into the Thames, where a bridge was
many years ago built over it, just before it widens
into Deptford Creek.

It is described in the " Ambulator," in 1774, as
"a large and populous town, divided into Upper
and Lower Deptford, and containing two churches."
The place was of old famous for its naval ship-
building yard, a fact which is thus noticed in the
work above quoted : " Deptford is most remark-
able for its noble dock, where the royal navy was
formerly built and repaired, till it was found more
convenient to build the larger ships at Woolwich,
and at other places, where there is a greater depth
of water." It had a wet dock of two acres for
ships, and another with an acre and a half, with
vast quantities of timber and other stores, and
extensive buildings as storehouses and offices for
the use of the place, besides dwelling-houses for
the use of those officers who were obliged to live
upon the spot in order to superintend the works.
Here the royal yachts of our Tudor and Stuart
sovereigns were generally kept. The dockyard, on
Its abolition several years ago, was turned into a
foreign cattle market, and was opened as such in
December, 187 1, by tlie lord mayor, Sir S. Gibbons.

By an Act of Parliament passed in 1730, Dept-
ford was divided into two parishes, distinguislied
by the names of St. Nicholas and St. Paul. The
parish of St. Nicholas, which includes the old
town, lies mainly along the river Thames, and the
combined parishes have now a population of about
108,000 souls.

According to the author of " Le Guide de
I'Etranger h Londres," published in 1827, it is the
last relais of the traveller by the posting road from
Dover to London.' He states that it is divided

into an upper and lower town, and draws attention
to its two churches of St. Nicholas and St. Paul,
and to its Royal Marine Arsenal, the creation of
Henry VIIL, where cables, masts, anchors, &c.,
are manufactured, and the royal state yachts are
kept. He mentions also the Red House to the
north of Deptford, the "grand depot of provi-
sions for the fleet," burnt down in 1639, and again
in 1 76 1. The town at that time numbered 17,000
inhabitants.

The change of the name of this place from West
Greenwich to that which it now bears, and has
borne for some hundreds of years, must, as we
have intimated above, have been owing to the
" deep ford " by which the inhabitants had to
cross the river Ravensbourne here, just above its
meeting with the Thames. Tiie ford, however,
has long since been superseded by a bridge.
This bridge, according to Charles Mackay, in his
" Thames and its Tributaries," is memorable in
history for the total defeat of Lord Audley and
his Cornish rebels in the year 1497. Headed by
that nobleman and by a lawyer named Flamniock,
and Joseph, a blacksmith of Bodmin, they had
advanced from Taunton with the design of taking
possession of London. The Kentish men flocked
to their standard, and on their arrival at Black-
heath they amounted altogether to about 16,000
men. Lord Daubeny, who had been sent against
them by King Henry VII., made a furious attack
upon them at Deptford Bridge, and after great
slaughter put them to flight. Lord Audley, Flam-
mock, and Joseph were all taken prisoners, and
shordy afterwards ■were executed on Tower Hill,
Joseph boasting in his hour of death that he died
in a just cause, and that he would make a figure
in history. Such are the vain and foolish hopes
with which rebels and impostors, from his day to
that of the Orton and Tichborne trial, have too
often buoyed themselves up.

The little stream of the Ravensbourne, which is
here called Deptford Creek, rises upon Keston
Heath, near Hayes Common, in Kent, and runs

144

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Deptford.

a course of about twelve miles in all, passing
Bromley and Lewisham and the southern borders
of Blackheath. It was formerly sometimes called
the Brome, from Bromley. An old legend is told
to account for its romantic name : — " It is said
that Julius Cresar, on his invasion of Britain, was
encamped with all his force a few miles distant
from its source. The array was suffering a good
deal from want of water, and detachments had
been sent out in all directions to find a supply, but
without any success. Caesar, however, fortunately
observed that a raven frequently alighted near the

account for the name which he found already
established by immemorial custom. In some
legends we can trace an element of truth ; but in
this we fail to discover even " the shadow of a
shade " of anything except romance.

The Ravensbourne, it may be here stated, is
still, as it is described by some poet quoted in
Hone's "Table Book,"

" A crystal rillet, scarce a palm in width,
Till creeping to a bed, outspread by art,
It shoots itself across, reposing there ;
Thence through a thicket sinuous it flows,

THE KOYAL DOCK, DtlTFOKU ; END OF SEVENTEENTH CE.NTURY.

camp, and conjecturing that it came to drink, he
ordered its arrival to be carefully noted. This
command was obeyed, and the visits of the raven
were found to be to a small clear spring on Keston
Heath." The wants of the army were supplied,
ind the spring, says the legend, and the rivulet of
which it is the parent, have ever since been called
tlie " Raven's Well " and the " Ravensbourne."
This legend, however, it is to be feared, is more
pretty than true. For even if the facts occurred as
stated, it is scarcely likely that tiie Roman legions
would have communicated them to the wild and
savage tribes whom they were so bent on subduing
to the iron rule of Imperial Rome ; and if they did
teach the Britons so pretty a story, they would not
have been likely to use the British or the Saxon
tongue in communicating it to them. We may,
therefore, safely dismiss it as a mere fable, invented
by some poetically-minded individual, in order to

And crossing meads and footpaths, gathering tribute
Due to its elder birth from younger branches.
Wanders, l)y Hayes and Bromley, Bcckenliam Vale,
And straggling Lewisham, to where Deptford Bridge
Uprises in obeisance to its flood."

But small and insignificant as the stream may
now appear, the Ravensbourne is a river which
has a name in history. We have recorded above
how it witnessed the rout and capture of Lord
Audley's rebel forces ; but this is not all. " More
than one tumultuous multitude," writes Charles
Mackay, " has encamped u])on its banks, shouting
loud defiance to their lawful niicrs. Blackhcatli,
its near neighbour, was overrun by Wat Tyler
and the angry thousands that followed in his
train ; and in the Ravensbourne, iierchance, many
of those worthy artisans stooped down to drink
its then limpid waters, when, intlamed by revenge
and by the hope of plunder and of absolute power,

HtpttorA.)

ESTABLISHMENT OF DEPTFORD DOCKYARD.

145

they prepared to march upon London. Jack Cade
and his multitudes in their turn encamped about
the self-same spot; and the Ravensbourne, after
an interval of eighty years, saw its quiet shores dis-
turbed by men who met there for the same pur-
poses, and threatening bloodshed against the peace-
ful citizens of London, because, feeling the scourge

King George IIL. was born there on the 28th of
May, 1759.

There are, and have been for many centuries,
corn and other mills situated on the Ravensbourne
in its picturesque windings through Deptford and
Brockley, and so on to its source. To one of
these John Evelyn refers in his " Diary," where,

SAMUEL PEPVS.

of oppression, they knew no wiser means of obtain-
ing relief, and were unable to distinguish between
law and tyranny on the one hand, and freedom and
licentiousness on the other." The same author
reminds us that as Perkin Warbeck met his adhe-
rents near about the same spot, the same scene
must have occurred here again during the reign
of Henry VH. It may not be out of place to
record here the fact that at Hayes, not far from
the sources of the Ravensbourne, was the favourite
seat of the great Lord Chatham, whose illustrious
son, William Pitt, the "heaven-born" minister of
263

under date of April 28, 1668, he writes: "To
London, about the purchase of the Ravensbourne
Mills and land round it (sii:) in Upper Deptford."

As shown in the line quoted as a motto at
the head of this chapter, Deptford is styled by
Pope, in his well-known lines on the Thames, a
" navy-building town," and right well in former
years did it deserve its name ; for the Trinity
House here, and also the docks and the once
extensive yards for ship-building, all date from the
reign of Henry VHL, and were here established
by that sovereign, to whom belongs, at all events,

146

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Deptfoi'd.

the credit of having been the founder of the British
navy.

It is a matter of history that Deptford, notwitli-
standing its contiguity to the main road through
Kent, and its nearness to the metropoHs, con-
tinued httle more than a mean fishing village till
Henry VIII. first erected a store and made the
royal dock there, from which time the town has
continued to increase both in size and population.

The Royal Dock, or " King's Yard," as it was
locally called in former times, was esteemed one
of the most complete repositories for naval stores
in Europe. It covered not less than thirty acres
of ground, and contained every convenience for
building, repairing, and fitting out ships-of-the-
line — those veritable " wooden walls of Old Eng.
land" with which we were familiar before the
introduction of armour-plated vessels. Artificers
in wood and in iron had here large ranges of
workshops and storehouses ; and here the hammer
and the axe were scarcely ever idle, even in times
of peace ; but where, during the prevalence of
war, they were plied incessantly " in the con-
struction of those floating bulwarks for which
England is, or rather was, renowned, and which
carry a hundred and twenty guns and a thousand
men to guard her shores from the invader, or to
bear her fame with her victories to the remotest
seas of the ocean."

The yard was occupied by various buildings,
such as two wet docks (one double and the other
single), three " slips " for men-of-war, a basin, two
mast ponds, a model loft, mast houses, a large
smith's shop, together with numerous forges for
anchors, sheds for timber, &c., besides houses for
the officers who superintended the works. The
finest machinery in the world is said to have been
employed in Deptford Dockyard for spinning
hemp and manufacturing ropes and cables for
the service of the navy. The large storehouse on
the north side of the quadrangle was erected in
the year 15 13. This may be said to have been
the commencement of the works at Deptford, which
under successive sovereigns gradually grew up and
extended.

The old storehouse, which was a quadrangular
pile, appears to have consisted originally only of a
range on the nortli side, where, on what was for-
merly the front of the building, is the date 1513,
together with the initials H R in a cipher, and the
letters A X for .\nno Christi. The buildings on
the east, west, and south sides of the quadrangle
were erected at different times ; and a double front,
towards the north, was added in 1721. Another
Storehouse, parallel to the above, and of the same

length, having sail and rigging lofts, was completed
towards the close of the last century ; and a long
range of smaller storehouses was built under the
direction of Sir Charles Middleton, afterwards Lord
Barham, about the year 17S0.

In Charnock's "History of Marine Architecture"
is given " A note how many ships the King's
Majesty (Henry VIII.) hath in harbour, on the
iSth day of September, in the 13th year of his
reign (1521); what portage they be of; what
estate they be in the same day; also where they '
ride and be bestowed." From this we are enabled
to see what use was made of Deptford as a naval
station at that time : — " The Ma?-y Rose, being of
the portage of 600 tons, lying in the pond at
Deptford beside the storehouse there, &c. The
John Baptist, and Barbara, every of them being
of the portage of 400 tons, do ryde together in
a creke of Deptford Parish, &c. The Great
Nicholas, being of portage 400 tons, lyeth in the
east end of Deptford Strond, &c. . . . Tlie
Great Barke, being of portage 250 tons, lyeih in
the pond at Deptford, &c. The Less Barke, being
of the portage of iSo tons, lyeth in the same pond,
&c. The twayne Row Barges, every of them of
the portage of 60 tons, lye in the said pond, &c.
The Great Galley, being of portage 800 tons, lyeth
in the said pond, &c."

Deptford dockyard, in its time, received many
royal and distinguished visitors ; the earliest ot
whom we have any record was Edward VI.,
who thus tells us of the provision made for his
reception: — "June 19th, 1549. I went to Dept-
ford, being bedden to supper by the Lord Clinton,
where before souper i saw certaine [men] stand
upon a bote without hold of anything, and rane
one at another til one was cast into the water.
At supper Mons. Vieedam and Henadey supped
with me. After supper was ober a fort [was] made
upon a great lighter on the Temps [Thames]
which had three walles and a 'Watch Towre, in
the meddes of wich Mr. ^Vinter was Captain with
forty or fifty other soldiours in yellow and blake.
To the fort also apperteined a galery of yelow color
with men and municion in it for defence of the
castcl ; wherfor ther cam 4 pinesses [jjinnaces] with
other men in wight ansomely dressed, wich entend-
ing to give assault to the castil, first droue away
the yelow piness and aftir with clods, scuibs, cane.s
of fire, darts made for the nonce, and bombardes
assaunted the castill, beating them of the castel
into the second ward, who after issued out antl
droue away the pinesses, sinking one of them,
out of wich al the men in it being more than
twenty leaped out and swamrne in the Temps.

Deptford.]

THE "GOLDEN HIND."

147

Then came th' Admiral of the nauy with three
other pinesses, and wanne the castel by assault,
and burst the top of it doune, and toke the captain
I and under captain. Then the Admiral went forth
to take the yelow ship, and at length clasped
with her, toke her, and assaulted also her topjie
and wane it by compulcion, and so returned home."
This royal record of a mimic naval engagement
on the Thames appears in the Cotton MSS. in
the British Museum, and is quoted by Cruden in
his " History of Gravesend."

"On the 4th of April, 1581," writes Lysons in
his " Environs of London," " Queen Elizabeth
visited Captain Drake's ship, called the Golden
Hind. Her Majesty dined on board, and after
dinner conferred the honour of knighthood on the
captain. A prodigious concourse of people as-
sembled on the occasion, and a wooden bridge, on
which were a hundred persons, broke down, but no
lives were lost. Sir Francis Drake's ship, when
it became unfit for service, was laid up in this
yard, where it remained many years, the cabin
being, as it seems, turned into a banqueting-house :
'We'll have our supper,' says Sir Petronel Flash,
in a comedy called Eastward- hoe, written by Ben
Jonson and others, ' on board Sir Francis Drake's
ship, that hath compassed the world ! ' It was at
length broken up, and a chair made out of it for
John Davis, Esq., who presented it to the Univer-
sity of Oxford." It is recorded that Queen Eliza-
beth not only partook of a collation on board
Drake's ship, and afterwards knighted him, but
that she also consented to share the golden fruits
of his succeeding adventures. Miss Strickland
observes, with reference to this record, that "as
some of Drake's enterprises were of a decidedly
piratical character, and attended with circumstances
of plunder and cruelty to the infant colonies of
Spain, the policy of Elizabeth, in sanctioning his
deeds, is doubtful." She gave orders that his ship,
the Golden Hind, should be preserved here as a
memorial of the national glory and of her great
captain's enterprise. For long years, accordingly,
in obedience to her royal command, the vessel was
kept in Deptford dockyard until it fell into decay,
when all that remained sound of her was converted
into a chair, which was presented to the University
of Oxford, and is still kept in the Bodleian library.
The chair was thus characteristically apostrophised
by Cowley : —

"To this great ship, which round the world has run,
And match'd, in race, the chariot of the sun,
This Pythagorean ship (for it may claim.
Without presumption, so deserved a name.
By knowledge once, and transformation now),

In her new shape this sacred port allow.

Drake and his ship could not have wished from fate

A happier station, or more bless'd estate !

For lo ! a seat of endless rest is given

To her in Oxford, and to him in heaven."

As might be expected, Deptford dockyard is
frequendy mentioned in the diaries of Evelyn and
Pepys ; by the former on account of its nearness
to Saye's Court, and by the latter on account of
his official connection with the navy.

It was in 165 1 that Evelyn first settled in
Deptford, as we find from the following entry in his
" Diary : " — " I went to Deptford, where I made pre-
paration for my settlement, either in this or some
other place, there being now so litde appearance of
any change for the better, all being entirely in the
Rebells' hands, and this particular habitation and
the estate contiguous to it (belonging to my father-
in-law) very much suffering for want of some friend
to rescue it out of the power of the usurpers ; so
as to preserve our interest I was advis'd to reside
in it, and compound with the souldiers. I had
also addresses and cyfers to correspond with his
majesty and ministers abroad : upon all which I
was persuaded to settle in England, having now
run about the world neere ten yeares. I likewise
meditated sending over for my wife from Paris."
A few days later Evelyn thus \vrites : " I saw
the Diamond and Ruby launch'd in the dock at
Deptford, carrying forty-eight brasse cannon each.
Cromwell present."

Experiments would appear to have been made
from time to time ; at all events, here is the record
of one of which Evelyn was an eye-witness. On
July 19, 1661, he \vrites : "We tried our Diving-
Bell or Engine in the water-dock at Deptford, in
which our Curator continu'd half an hour under
water ; it was made of cast lead, let down with a
strong cable."

At or about this time Samuel Pepys was a
frequent visitor here, in his official capacity, as
"one of the principal officers of the navy" (Clerk
of the Acts). Under dates of January 11-12,
1660-1, he thus records in his "Diary" an account
of a visit on the occasion of a reported " rising of
Fanatiques : " — " This morning we had order to
see guards set in all the King's yards : and so Sir
William Batten goes to Chatham, Colonel Slingsby
and I to Deptford and Woolwich. . . We fell to
choosing four captains to command the guards,
and choosing the place where to keep them, and
other things in order thereunto. Never till now
did I see the great authority of my place, all the
captains of the fleete coming cap in hand to us."
On the next day, the 13th, he writes; "After sermon

148

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Dcptford.

to Deptford again; where, at the Commissioner's
and the ' Globe,' we staid long. But no sooner in
bed, but we had an alarme, and so we rose ; and
the Comptroller comes into the yard to us ; and
seamen of all the ships present repair to us, and
there we armed every one with a handspike, with
which they were as fierce as could be. At last we
hear that it was five or six men that did ride
through the guard in the towne, without stopping
to the guard that was there : and, some say, shot
at them. But all being quiet there, we caused the
seamen to go on board again."

On January 15, 1660-1, he makes this entry:
" The King [Charles IL] hath been this afternoon
to Deptford, to see the yacht that Commissioner
Pett is building, which will be very pretty ; as also
that his brother at Woolwich is making."

Pepys, in his " Diary," January, 1662, mentions
a certain project of Sir Nicholas Crisp to make a
great " sasse," or sluice, in " the king's lands about
Deptford," " to be a wett-dock to hold 200 sail of
ships." This project is also mentioned by Evelyn
and by Lysons.

Pepys writes under date April 28th, 1667 : —
" To Deptford, and there I walked down the yard,
. . . and discovered about clearing of the wet
docke, and heard (which I had before) how, when
the docke was made, a ship of nearly 500 tons was
there found ; a ship supposed of Queen Elizabeth's
time, and well wrought, with a great deal of stone-
shot in her, of eighteen inches diameter, which
was shot then in use ; and afterwards meeting with
Captain Perryman and Mr. Casde at Half-way Tree,
they tell me of stone-shot of thirty-six inches in
diameter, which they shot out of mortar pieces."

Again, in the following May : — " By water to
Deptford, it being Trinity Monday, when the
Master is chosen. And so I down with them ;
and we had a good dinner of plain meat, and good
company at our table ; among others my good Mr.
Evelyn, with whom, after dinner, I stepped aside
and talked upon the present posture of our affairs."
Again, when in June, 1667, the alarm was raised
that the Dutch fleet was already off the Nore
and in the Medway, Samuel Pepys relates another
official visit : " So we all down to Deptford, and
pitched upon ships, and set men at work; but
Lord ! to see how backwardly tilings move at this
pinch."

In this same year, as we are told by John
Evelyn, a large fire, breaking out in Deptford
dockyard, "made such a blaze and caused such
an uproar in London, tliat everybody Ijclieved the
Dutch fleet had sailed up the river and fired the
Tower."

Here were launched many of the " wooden walls
of old England," especially during the reigns of the
later Stuarts. For example, Evelyn tells us that
he stood near the king here in March, 166S, at the
launch of ■' that goodly vessel, The Charles." Pepys,
too, was here on this occasion, for under date of
March 3, 1668, he writes: — "Down by water to
Deptford ; where the King, Queene, and Court
are to see launched the new ship built by Mr.
Shish, called The Cha?-lcs. God send her better
luck than the former ! "

Evelyn tells us that many of the dockyard
employes rose to independence, and even affluence.
Among others he mentions the funeral here of the
above-mentioned old Mr. Shish, master shipwright,
whose death he styles a public loss, for his e.xcel-
lent success in building ships, though altogether
illiterate. " I held the pall," he writes, " with
three knights, who did him that honour, and he
was worthy of it. . . . It was the custom of this
good man to rise in the night, and to pray kneeling
in his own coftin, whicli he had by him many
years."

At the close of the seventeenth century Peter
the Great visited the dockyard for the purpose of
studying naval architecture, residing during his
stay at Evelyn's house, Saye's Court, where we shall
again meet with him presently. In the dockyard,
it is on record that he did the work of an ordinary
shipwTight, and tliat he also paid close attention
to the principles of ship-designing. His evenings
were mostly spent in a public-house in smoking
and drinking with his attendants and one or two
chosen companions.

It may be worthy of a note that in the " Life of
Captain Cook " we are told that the two ships, the
Resolution and the Discovery., in which he made
his last voyage to the Pacific, lay here whilst
being equipped by the shipwrights for their distant
voyage. The Queen Charlotte (120 guns) was
launched from this yard in July, iSio.

Samuel Pepys, the author of the " Diary " from
which we have culled so many interesting pieces of
intelligence during the progress of this work, and
whose portrait we present to our readers on page
145, was descended from a family originally seated
at Diss, in Norfolk, and who settled at Cottingjiani,
in Cambridgeshire, early in the sixteenth century.
His father, John Pepys, at one time followed the
trade of a tailor ; he had a numerous family.
Samuel Pepys was born in 1632, and wms educated
at St. Paul's School,* London, and afterwards at
the University of Cambridge. At the age of about

' See Vol. I., p. 974.

Deptford.]

THE FOREIGN CATTLE MARKET.

149

twenty-three he took to himself a wife in the person
of one Elizabeth St. Michael, then a beautiful girl
fifteen years old. At this time, Pepys' relation, Sir
Edward Montagu, afterwards first Earl of Sand-
wich, proved his friend, and prevented the ill
consequences which such an early marriage might
have entailed upon him. Sir Edward took young
Pepys with him on his expedition to the Sound,
in 1658, and upon his return obtained for him a
clerkship in the Exchequer. Through the interest
of Lord Sandwich, Pepys was nominated " Clerk
of the Acts," and this was the commencement of
his connection with a great national establishment,
to which in the sequel his diligence and acuteness
were of the highest service. " From his papers,
still extant," writes Lord Braybrooke, " we gather
that he never lost sight of the public good ; that
he spared no pains to check the rapacity of con-
tractors, by whom the naval stores were then
supplied; that he studied order and economy in
the dockyards, advocated the promotion of the old-
established officers in the navy ; and resisted to
the utmost the infamous system of selling places
then most unblushingly practised. . . . He
continued in this office till 1673 ; and during those
great events, the plague, the fire of London, and
the Dutch war, the care of the navy in a great
measure rested upon Pepys alone." He afterwards
rose to be Secretary of the Admiralty, an office
which he retained till the Revolution. On tlie
accession of William and Mary he retired into
private life. He sat in Parliament for Castle
Rising, and subsequently represented the borough
of Harwich, eventually rising to wealth and emi-
nence as Clerk of the Treasurer to the Commis-
sioners of the affairs of Tangier, and Surveyor-
General of the Victualling Department, "proving
himself to be," it is stated, "a very useful and
energetic public servant." He suffered imprison-
ment for a short time in 1679-80, in the Tower, on
a charge of aiding the Popish Plot. In 16S4 he
was elected President of the Royal Society, and
held that honourable office for two years in suc-
cession. Pepys had an extensive knowledge of
naval affairs; and in 1690 he published some
" Memoirs relating to the State of the Royal Navy
in England for ten years, determined December,
1688." He died in London in 1703.

In the early part of the present century the
dockyard was closed for some years. It was re-
opened, however, witli renewed vigour in 1844,
from which time down to the period of its final
closing in 1869, several first-rate vessels were built
and launched there, including the Hannibal, the
Etnet-ald, the Termagant, the Terrible, the Spitfire,

the Leopard, the Imperieuse, and many others.
But when iron began to supersede wood, and a
heavier class of vessels was required for the pur-
poses of war, the shallow water in the river opposite
the slips, and other inconveniences of the site,
caused the yard to be pretty much restricted to the
building of gunboats, and it was finally decided to
abandon the dockyard and to transfer the work-
men to other establishments. The last vessel
launched here was the screw corvette Druid,
which took place in the presence of Princess
Louise and Prince Arthur, on the 13 th of March,
1869. At the end of the same month the yard
was finally closed.

Shortly afterwards it became necessary, under
the Contagious Diseases (Animals) Act, 1869, to
provide a place for the sale and slaughter of
foreign animals brought into the port of London,
and the Corporation of the City of London having
undertaken the duty, purchased the greater part of
the old dockyard for about ;^95,ooo, for the site
of the new market. The works necessary for con-
verting the place into a cattle-market amounted
to about ^^140,000; and in December, 187 1, it
was opened under the title of the Foreign Cattle
Market. This market covers an area of about
twenty-three acres, and is provided Avith covered
pens, each pen having its water-trough and food-
rack, sufficient for sheltering 4,000 cattle and
1 2,000 sheep ; besides this, there is sufficient
available open space for accommodating several
thousands more. The ship-building slips of the
old dockyard, with their immense roofs, were
adapted as pen-sheds, and connected by ranges of
substantial and well-ventilated buildings. The old
workshops were converted into slaughter-houses
for oxen, the boat-houses for sheep, and fitted with
travelling pulleys, cranes, and various mechanical
appliances for saving labour and facilitating the
slaughter of the animals. The market has a river
frontage of about 360 yards ; and three jetties, with
a connected low-water platform, provide ample
means for landing animals at all states of the
tide.

In 1872, by order of the City officials, a board
was put up in the Foreign Cattle Market, bearing
the following inscription :—" Here worked as a
ship-carpenter Peter, Czar of all the Russias,
afterwards Peter the Great, 1698." The Czars
sojourn here is likewise commemorated by his
name being given to a street in Deptford— a very
wretched and woe-begone street, by the way, and
quite unworthy of so illustrious a name.

The Dockyard, though so important, was small,
when compared with the others, as we learn from

ISO

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Dcptford.

the following statement which appeared in a Kentish
newspaper in 1839 : — " The English dockyards
extend over nearly 500 acres. Deptford covers
30 acres ; Woolwich, 36 ; Chatham, 90 ; Sheemess,
50 ; Portsmouth, 100 ; Plymouth, 96 ; and Pem-
broke, 60."

Near the docks was the seat of John Evelyn,
called Say's or Saye's Court, where, as stated
above, Peter the Great, Czar of Muscovy, resided

Saye's Court was not based on a very secure foot-
ing, for he tells us in 1 660-1 that he had repeated
visits from his Majesty's surveyor " to take an
account of what grounds I challeng'd at Saye's
Court." In 1663 Charles IL granted a new lease
at a reserved annual rental of 22s.

The property, it appears, had been leased by tht
Crown to the family of the Brownes, one of whom.
Sir Richard Browne, in 1613, purchased the greater

PETER THE GREAT'S HOUSE AT DEPIKUKl) 1,1850).

for some time whilst completing in the dockyard
his knowledge and ;.kill in the practical part of
naval architecture. The mansion was originally
the manor-house of the manor of West Greenwich,
■which had been presented by the Conqueror to
Gilbert de Magnimot, who made it the head of his
barony, and erected, it is said, on the site, a castle,
every vestige of which has long been swept away.
After passing through the hands of numerous
possessors, the manor was resumed by the Crown
at the Restoration. The manor-house with its
surrounding estate, which had obtained the name
of Saye's Court from its having been long held
by the family of Says or .Sayes, became in 1651
the property of John Evelyn, the celebrated author
of "Sylva," It would appear that Evelyn's claim to

portion of the manor. " A ' representative of
that ancient house,'" writes Mr. James Thorne, in
his " Environs of London," " Sir Richard Browne,
a follower of the Earl of Leicester, was a privy
councillor and clerk of the Green Cloth, under
Elizabeth and James I., and died at Saye's Court
in 1604. He it must have been, and not an
Evelyn, as Sir Walter Scott wrote, by a not un-
natural slip of the pen, who, taking a 'deep interest
in the Earl of Sussex, willingly accommodated both
him and his numerous retinue in his hospitable
mansion,' the 'ancient house, called Saye's Court,
near Deptford ;' and which hospitable service led
to the events recorded in chapters xiii. — xv. of
' Kenilworth,' among others the luckless visit which
Queen Elizabeth paid her sick se^^•ant at Saye's

152

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Deptford.

Court ; ' having brought confusion thither along
with her, and leaving doubt and apprehension be-
hind.' " Here, as we have already stated, " Master
TresiUian " visited the Earl of Sussex. The last
Sir Richard Browne, who died in 1683, was Clerk
of the Council to Charles L, and his ambassador
to the Court of France from 1641. His death is
thus recorded by Evelyn in his " Di.iry," under
date, February, 1683 : — •

"This morning I received the newes of the
death of my father-in-law, Sir Richard Browne,
Knt. and Bart., who died at my house at Saye's
Court this day at ten in the morning, after he had
labour'd under the gowt and dropsie for neere
six moneths, in the 78th yeare of his age. His
grandfather, Sir Richard Browne, was the greate
instrument under the greate Earl of Leicester
(favourite to Queene Eliz.) in his government of
the Netherlands. He was Master of the House-
hold to King James, and Cofferer ; I think was
the first who regulated the compositions thro'
England for the King's household provisions, pro-
gresses, &c."

John Evelyn, whom Southey styles a " perfect
model of an English gentleman," and " whose
' Sylva," " as Scott writes, " is still the manual of
British planters," married in 1647 the only daughter
and heir of the above-mentioned Sir Richard
Browne ; and Sir Richard being resident in Paris,
gave up Saye's Court to his son-in-law. That
Evelyn was located here soon after his marriage
seems pretty certain, for in 1648 we find an entry
in his "Diary" to the effect that he "went through
a course of chemistrie at Saye's Court."

The estate had been seized by the Parliamentary
commissioners ; but Evelyn succeeded in buying
out, towards the close of 1652, those who had
purchased it of the Trustees of Forfeited Estates.
Tlienceforth he made Saye's Court his permanent
residence, and at once set about the accomplish-
ment of those works which helped so much to
make the place classic ground. Under date 17th
of January, 1653, he writes: "I began to set out
the ovall Garden at Saye's Court, which was before
a rude orchard, and all the rest one intire field
of 100 acres, without any hedge, except the hither
holly hedge joyning to the bank of the mount
walk. This was the beginning of all the succeed-
ing gardens, walks, groves, enclosures, and planta-
tions there."

'i'hc chatty old diarist tells us all the secrets
of his domestic life : how he " set apart in prepara-
tion for the B. Sacrament, which Mr. Owen ad-
ministered " to him and all liis family in Saye's
Court; how he entertained royalty and some of

the highest of the nobility ; how he planted the
orchard, " the moon being new, and the wind
westerly ; " and how he kept bees in his garden in
a " transparent apiary," &c. &c.

Evelyn resided chiefly at Saye's Court for the
next forty years of his life, carrying out there, as
far as the site allowed, the views of gardening set
forth in his " Sylva," to the " great admiration " of
his contemporaries. Occasionally royalty would
" drop in " to pay him a visit, or to see how his
work was progressing — facts which we find duly
recorded in his " Diary." For instance, Henrietta
Maria, the widow of Charles I. — the " Queen
Mother," as she was called — landed at Deptford,
on her return to England, July 28th, 1662, and
was waited upon by John Evelyn, who entertained
her, the Earl of St. Alban's, and the rest of her
retinue, at Saye's Court.

On the 30th of April, in the following year,
"came his Majesty to honour my poore villa wth
his presence, viewing the gardens and even every
roome of the house, and was pleas'd to take a
small refreshment."

Evelyn had, of course, many other visitors.
Clarendon and the Duke of York among them.
One entry in his "Diary" about this time is as
follows : — " Came my Lord Chancellor (the Earle
of Clarendon) and his lady, his purse and mace
borne before him, to visit me. They had all ben
our old acquaintance in exile, and indeed this
greate person had ever ben my friend. His sonn.
Lord Cornbury, was here too."

But it was not only royal and political celebrities
who visited Evelyn here ; there was a welcome
also for men of letters and science. His " Diary"
for 1673 bears testimony to this fact. "June 27.
Mr. Dryden, the famous poet, and now laureate,
came to give me a visite. It was the anniversary
of my marriage," he adds, " and the first day that
I went into my new little cell and cabinet, which I
built below, towards the South Court, at the east
end of the parlor."

All this while his garden, we may be sure, was
not neglected. " I planted," he writes in his
"Diary," "all the out-limites of the garden and
long walks with holly." In 1663, on the 4th
of liLarch, occurs this entry: "This Spring I
planted the Home and West-field at Saye's Court
with elmcs, the same yeare they were planted in
Greenewich Park."

Two years later our genial friend Pepys takes a
quiet stroll through the grounds of Saye's Court, as
he informs us in his " Diary," under date of 5th of
May, 1665: ".'\fler dinner to Mr. Evelyn's; he
being abroad, wc walked in his garden, and a lovely

Deptford.]

SAYE'S COURT.

IS3

noble ground he hath indeed. And among other
rarities, a hive of bees, so as being hived in glass,
you may see the bees making their honey and
comb.j mighty pleasantly." This was the " trans-
parent apiary " already mentioned. It was not
merely in gardening that Evelyn was so pro-
ficient, for he appears to have been something
of a poet, and to have cultivated a taste for the
fine arts, if we may form any conclusion from the
following entry in Pepys' "Diary:" — "5 Nov.,
1665. By water to Deptford, and there made a
visit to Mr. Evelyn, who, among other things,
showed me most excellent paintings in little, in
distemper, Indian-incke, water-colours, graveing,
and, above all, the whole secret of mezzo-tinto,
and the manner of it, which is very pretty, and
good things done with it. He read to me very
much also of his discourse, he hath been many
years and now is about, about Gardenage ; whicli
will be a most noble and pleasant piece. He read
me part of a play or two of his making, very good,
but not as he conceits them, I think, to be. He
showed me his Hortus Hyemalis : leaves laid up
in a book of several plants kept dry, which pre-
serve colour, however, and look very finely, better
than an herball. In fine, a most excellent person
he is, and must be allowed a little for a little con-
ceitedness ; but he may well be so, being a man
so much above others. He read me, though with
too much gusto, some little poems of his own, that
were not transcendant, yet one or two very pretty
epigrams ; among others, of a lady looking in at a
grate, and being pecked at by an eagle that was
there." It is amusing to see one of the two rival
diarists of Charles II. 's reign portrayed by the
other, and that must be our excuse for quoting the
above sketch.

Evelyn was, moreover, apparently a collector of
"autographs," or, at all events, he seems to have
possessed a few treasures in this way ; for a few
days later we find Pepys paying him another visit,
the entry of which records the fact that " among
other things he showed me a lieger [ledger] of a
treasurer of the navy, his great grandfather, just
one hundred years old, which I seemed mighty
fond of ; and he did present me with it, which I
take as a great rarity, and he hopes to find me
more older than it. He also showed me several
letters of the old Lord of Leicester's, in Queen
Elizabeth's time, under the very hand-writing of
Queen Elizabeth, and Queen Mary, Queen of
Scots, and others, very venerable names. But,
Lord ! how poorly, methinks, they wrote in those
days, and in what plain uncut paper."

Evelyn stayed at Saye's Court during the plague.

for he writes in 1665 : " There died in our parish
this year 406 of the pestilence," and he afterwards
tells us that his wife and family returned to him
from Wotton, the ancient family seat near Dorking,
in Surrey, when it was at an end. In the MSS.
preserved at Wotton, and quoted in the appendix
to his " Memoirs," Evelyn has left a pretty full
account of what he did at Saye's Court : " The
hithermost grove I planted about 1656 ; the other
j beyond it, 1660 ; the lower grove, 1662 ; the liolly
hedge, even with the mount hedge below, 1670. I
planted every hedge and tree not onely in the
garden, groves, &c., but about all the fields and
house since 1653, except those large, old, and
hollow Elms in the Stable Court, and next the
Sewer; for it was before all one pasture field to
the very garden of the house, which was but small ;
from which time also I repaired the ruined house,
and built the whole end of the kitchen, the chapel,
buttry, my study (above and below), cellars, and
all the outhouses and walls, still-house, Orangerie,
and made the gardens, &c., to my great cost, and
better I had don to have pulled all down at first ;
but it was don at several times."

It was in the neighbourhood of Saye's Court, in
167 1, that Evelyn first met with the celebrated
sculptor, Grinling Gibbons, whom he afterwards be-
friended. On the 1 8th of January in that year he
writes : " This day I first acquainted his Majesty
with that incomparable young man Gibbons, whom
I had lately met with in an obscure jjlace by
meere accident as I was walking neere a poore
solitary thatched house in a field in our parish,
neere Saye's Court. I found him shut in ; but
looking in at the window I perceiv'd him carving
that large cartoon or crucifix of Tintoret, a copy
of which I had myselfe brought from Venice.
I asked if I might enter ; he open'd the door
civilly to me, and I saw him about such a work as
for the curiosity of handling, drawing, and studious
exactnesse, I never had before scene in all my
travells. I questioned him why he worked in
such an obscure place ; he told me it was that he
might apply hiraselfe to his profession without inter-
ruption. I asked if he was unwilling to be made
knowne to some greate man, for that I believed it
might turn to his profit ; he answer'd he was yet
but a beginner, but would not be sorry to sell oft'
that piece; the price he said .;£'ioo. The very
frame was worth the money, there being nothing in
nature so tender and delicate as the flowers and
festoons about it, and yet the work was very
strong; in the piece were more than 100 figures
of men. I found he was likewise musical, and
very civil, sober, and discreete in his discourse."

154

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Deplford.

The lease of the pastures adjacent to Saye's
Court, as Evelyn tells us, was renewed to him by
the king in January, 1672, though, "according to
his solemn promise, it ought to have passed to us
in fee farm." The king's engagement to this effect,
under his own hand, is among the treasures of the
Evelyns still preserved at Wotton.

In the summer of 1693, Evelyn transferred him-
self, after so many years, from his old home at
Saye's Court to Wotton. On the 4th of May of that
year he wTites : — " I went this day with my wife
and foiu" servants from Saye's Court, removing much
furniture of all sorts, books, pictures, hangings,
bedding, &c., to furnish the apartment my brother
assign'd me, and now, after more tlian forty years,
to spend the rest of my dayes with him at Wotton,
where I was born ; leaving my house at Deptford
full furnish'd, and three servants, to my son-in-law
Draper, to pass the summer in, and such longer
time as he should think fit to make use of it."

Two or three years afterwards, having succeeded
to Wotton by his brother's death, he let Saye's
Court, for a term of years, to the gallant Admiral
Benbow, " with condition to keep up the garden ; "
and afterwards, as we learn from Evelyn's "Diary,"
April, 1698, "The Czar of Muscovy, being come
to England, and having a mind to see the building
of ships, hir'd my house at Saye's Court, and
made it his Court and Palace, new furnished for
him by the king."

John Evelyn was one of the most excellent per-
sons in public and private life. His career was
one of usefulness and benevolence. Horace Wal-
pole bears a high testimony to his personal worth
when, on account of having designed with his own
hand some illustrations of his tour in Italy, he
reckons him among those English artists whose
lives afford materials for his "Anecdotes of
Painting."

The following account of the life led by Peter
the Great* at Saye's Court we extract from a
Memoir of his Life, in the " Family Library : "—
"One month's residence having satisfied Peter as
to what was to be seen in London, and the
monarch having expressed a strong desire to be
near some of the king's dock-yards, it was arranged
that a suitable residence should be found near one
of the river establishments ; and the house of the
celebrated Mr. Evelyn, close to Deptford Dock-
yard, being about to become vacant by the re-
moval of .\dniiral Henbow, who was then its tenant,
it was immediately taken for tlie residence of the
czar and Jiis suite; and a doorway was broken

* See Vol. III., p. 81.

through the boundary wall of the dockyard, to
afford a direct communication between it and
the dwelling-house. This place had then the
name of Saye's Court ; it was the delight of »!
Evelyn, and the wonder and admiration of all I
men of taste at that time. The grounds are
described, in the ' Life of the Lord Keeper
Guildford,' as ' most boscaresque,' being, as it
were, an exemplary of his (Evelyn's) ' Book of i.
Forest Trees.' Admiral Benbow had given great fl'
dissatisfaction to the proprietor as a tenant, for
the latter observes in his ' Diary : ' ' I have the
mortification of seeing every day much of m\'
labour and expense there impairing for want of
a more polite tenant.' It appears, however, that
the princely occupier was not a more ' polite
tenant ' than the rough sailor had been, for Mr.
Evelyn's servant thus wTites to him : — ' There is a
house full of people, and right nasty. The czar
lies next your library, and dines in the parlour
next your study. He dines at ten o'clock, and
six at night, is very seldom at home a whole day, ^J
very often in the King's Yard, or by water, dressed ■ |
in several dresses. The king is expected here
this day ; the best parlour is pretty clean for
him to be entertained in. The king pays for
all he has.' But this was not all : Mr. Evelyn
had a favourite holly hedge, through which, it is
said, the czar, by way of exercise, used to be
in the habit of trundling a wheel-barrow every
morning with his own royal hands. Mr. Evelyn
probably alludes to this in the following passage in
his ' Sylva,' wherein he asks, ' Is there under the
heavens a more glorious and refreshing object, of
the kind, than an impregnable hedge, of about
four hundred feet in length, nine feet high, and
five in diameter, which I can still show in my
ruined garden at Saye's Court (thanks to the Czar
of Muscovy) at any time of tlie year, glittering
with its armed and variegated leaves ; the taller
standards, at orderly distances, blushing with their
natural coral? It mocks the rudest assaults of
the weather, beasts, or hedge-breakers, et ilium nemo
impinie lacessit ! ' "

"While at Saye's Court," writes Dr. Mackay,
in his " Thames and its Tributaries," " the czar
received a visit from the great William Penn, who
came over from Stoke Pogis to see him, accom-
panied by several other members of the Quaker
body. Penn and he conversed together in the
Dutch language ; and the czar conceived from
his manners and conversation such favourable
notions of that peaceful sect, that during his
residence at Deptford he very often attended the
Quaker meetings, conducting himself — if we may

Dcptford.l

PETER THE GREAT AT DEPTFORD.

155

trust his biographers — 'with great decorum and
condescension, changing seats, and sitting down,
and standing up, as he could best accommodate
others, although he could not understand a word
of what was said.' " If this be true, the czar was
not so uncivilised a being after all.

We have but little evidence, except tradition, that
the czar, during his residence here, ever actually
worked with his hands as a shipwright ; it would
seem he was employed rather in acquiring informa-
tion on matters connected with naval architecture
from the commissioner and surveyor of the navy.
Sir Anthony Deane, who, ne.\t after the Marquis of
Carmarthen, was his most intimate English ac-
quaintance. His fondness for sailing and managing
boats, however, was as eager here as in Holland,
where he had studied some time before coming to
England ; and these gentlemen were almost daily
with him on the Thames, sometimes in a sailing-
yacht, and at other times rowing in boats — an
exercise in which both the czar and the marquis
are said to have excelled. The Navy Board
received directions from the Admiralty to hire
two vessels, to be at the command of the czar
whenever he should think proper to sail on the
Thames, in order to improve himself in seaman-
ship. In addition to these, the king made him
a present of the Royal Transport, with orders to
have such alterations made in her as his majesty
might desire, and also to change her masts,
riggings, sails, &c., in any such way as he might
think proper for improving her sailing qualities.
But his great delight was to get into a small decked
boat belonging to the dockyard, and, taking only
Menzikoff and three or four others of his suite, to
work the vessel with them, he being the helmsman;
by this practice he said he should be able to teach
them how to command ships when they got home.
Having finished their day's work (as stated by us
previously*), they used to resort to a public-house
in Great Tower Street, close to Tower Hill, to
smoke their pipes, and drink their beer and brandy.
The landlord had the Czar of Muscovy's head
painted and put up for his sign, which continued
till the year 1808, when a person of the name of
A\'axel took a fancy to the old sign, and offered the
then occupier of the house to paint him a new one
for it. A copy was accordingly made from the
original, which remained in its position till the
house was rebuilt, when the sign was not replaced,
and the name only remains ; it is now called the
" Czar's Head."

The czar, in passing up and down the river,

See Vol. II., p. 99.

was much struck with, the magnificent building
of Greenwich Hospital, which, until he had visited
it and seen the old pensioners, he had thought
to be a royal palace ; but one day when King
William asked how he liked his hospital for
decayed seamen, the czar answered, "If I were
the adviser of your majesty, I should counsel you
to remove your court to Greenwich, and convert
St. James's into a hospital." He little knew that
St. James's also was a hospital t in its origin.

While residing at Deptford, the czar frequently
invited Flamsteed from the Royal Observatory at
Greenwich to come over and dine with him, in
order that he might obtain his opinion and advice,
especially upon his plan of building a fleet. It is
stated in Chambers's "Book of Days," that the
king promised Peter that there should be no im-
pediment to his engaging and taking back with
him to Russia a number of English artificers and
scientific men ; accordingly, when he returned
to Holland, there went with him captains of
ships, pilots, surgeons, gunners, mast-makers, boat-
builders, sail-makers, compass-makers, carvers,
anchor-smiths, and copper-smiths ; in all nearly
500 persons. At his departure he presented to
the king a ruby valued at ;^io,ooo, which he
brought in his waistcoat pocket, and placed in
William's hand wrapped up in a piece of brown
paper.

Evelyn seems to have sustained a considerable
loss by Peter's tenancy; for he writes in his "Diary"
under date 5th of June, 169S : "I went to Dept-
ford to see how miserably the czar had left my
house after three months' making it his court. I
got Sir Christopher Wren, the king's surveyor, and
Mr. Loudon, his gardener, to go and estimate the
repairs, for which they allowed ^150 in their report
to the Lords of the Treasury." It appears, how-
ever, that in spite of having had such bad tenants
in admirals and in royalty, Evelyn again let his
house at Deptford to Lord Carmarthen, Peters
boon companion.

Alas ! for the glory of the glittering hollies,
trimmed hedges, and long avenues of Saye's Court.
Time, that great innovator, has demolished them
all, and Evelyn's favourite haunts and enchanting
grounds became in the end transformed into
cabbage gardens and overrun with weeds.

After Evelyn's death Saye's Court was neglected,
and at the end of the last century Lysons writes,
" There is not the least trace now either of the
house or the gardens at Saye's Court; a part of
the garden walls only with some brick piers are [is]

t See Vol. IV., p. loo.

1S6

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

{DeptfeM.

remaining. The house was pulled down in 1728
or 1729, and the workhouse built on its site."
That portion of the victualling yard where till
recently oxen and hogs were slaughtered and
salted for the use of the navy, now occupies the
place of the shady walks and trimmed hedges in
which the good old Evelyn so much delighted.
On another part rows of mean cottages were built ;
and the only portion unappropriated was that

the latter purpose, was no doubt the scene of
many a jovial night spent by the admiral and
his successor, the czar. What remains of Evelyn's
garden is now a wilderness of weeds and rank
grass, hemmed in by a dingy wall which shuts
out some of the filthiest dwellings imaginable.
The avenue of hovels through which we passed
from the abode of former greatness bore the name
of Czar Street, a last lingering memento of the

IJEPTKORD CREEK.

left for the workhouse garden ; this still remains.
The private entrance tiiroiigh which Peter the
Great passed into the dockyard from Saye's Court
was in the wall close by, but is now bricked up.

When Mr. Serjeant Burke was i)re|)aring for the
press his " Celebrated Naval and Military Trials,"
he visited Deptford. " I5ut," he writes, " to look
at Saye's Court now 1 Tlie free-and-easy way of
living, common to the rough seaman and the rude
northern jjotentatc, could not, in wildest mood,
have contemplated such a condition. It has
gradually sunk from bad to worse ; it has been
a workhouse, and has become too decayed and
confined even for that. It is now attached to the
dockyard, as a kind of police-station and place
for paying off the men. The lai^e hall, used for

imperial sojourn. The illustrious czar was so
great a man that he coiikl nowhere set his foot
without leaving an imprint behind. A monument
to him is not needed ; but it would be pleasing to
have found in Deptford some memorial carved in
brass or stone of our gallant lienhow. Yet, after
all, it matters not much wliile tlie British public,
ever mindful of greatness in the British navy,
permits no oblivion to rest on his personal worth,
his achievements, and his fame."

The workhouse mentioned above has been
closed since about 1846. It was a large brick-
built house of two storeys, oblong in shape, and
with a tiled roof The rooms were low-pitched,
and about a dozen in number ; some of them
were about thirty feet in length, and those ou

264

158

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

(Deptford.

the ground floor were paved with brick. There is
nothing in the building to show that it was ever
occupied by persons of affluence ; but, in spite of
this fact, there is in Deptford and its neighbour-
hood a general and fondly-cherished impression
that it was once Saye's Court, and the house
in which the Czar lived. Mr. Thorne, in his
" Environs of London," considers that the house
" looks more like an adaptation of a part of the
old house than a building of the year 1729." It
may, perhaps, have been one of the offices or out-
buildings of the original mansion.

In 1869, on the closing of the dockyard, Mr.
W. T- Evelyn, of Wolton,— the present representa-
tive" of the family of the author of "Sylva," and
the owner of some considerable part of the parish
of Deptford— determined to purchase back from
the Government as much of the site of Saye's
Court as was available, to restore it to something
like its original condition, and to throw it open to
the inhabitants as a recreation ground. The trans-
formation was effected early in 1878. There were
originally about fourteen acres of open ground;
but some of these have since been covered with
rows of houses or enclosed for private purposes ;
and two acres remain attached to the old house
above mentioned, which has been converted by
Mr. Evelyn into almshouses for about twenty poor
persons. In 1881 about three acres more were
absorbed into the Foreign Cattle Market, so that
the recreation-ground is now about seven acres in
extent. The grounds were laid out with grass
plats, hedged with flowers and shrubs, and inter-
sected with broad and level walks, and in one
corner a large building was erected, to serve as a
museum and library. The public, however, do
not appear to have appreciated the boon, and the
gardens have given place to a piece of level turf
for athletic sports, whilst the museum building is
now made to serve the purposes of a ball-room.

We are told that in former times the king's
household used to be supplied v/ith corn and cattle
from the different counties ; and oxen being sent
up to London, pasture grounds in the various
suburbs were assigned for their maintenance.
Among these were lands near Tottenliam Court,
and others at Dejjtford, which were under the
direction of the Lord Steward and the Board of
Green Cloth. A certain Sir Richard Browne had
the superintendence of those at Deptford ; and
this fart may ex])]ain the entry in Evelyn's " Diary"
already mentioned, where he records the visit of
the Comptroller of that Board " to survey the land
at Saye's Court, to which I had pretence, and to
make his report."

To the north-west of Deptford was the " Red
House," "so called as being a collection of ware-
houses and storehouses built of red bricks." This
place was burnt down in July, 1639, it being
then filled with hemp, flax, pitch, tar, and other
commodities. The Victualling Office, in former
times called the "Red House," from its occupying
the site of the above-mentioned storehouses, is now
an immense pile, erected at different times, and
consisting of many ranges of buildings, appropriated
to the various establishments necessar)' in the im-
portant concern of victualling the navy. The full
official title of the place is now the " Royal Victoria
Victualling Yard." On the old "Red House"
being rebuilt, it was included in the grant of
Saye's Court to Sir John Evelyn, in 1726, and
was then described as 870 feet in length, thirty-
five feet wide, and containing 100 warehouses.
The whole of the land comprised in the present
yard has been purchased from time to time from
the Evelyn family, the last addition being made to
it in 1869, when some portion of the gardens
formerly attached to old Saye's 'Court was pur-
chased from Mr. W. J. Evelyn. The premises
were for some time rented by the East India
Company ; but on their being re-purchased of
the Evelyns by the Crown, a new victualling
house was built on the spot in 1745, to replace
the old victualling ofiice on Tower Hill. This
new building was also accidentally burnt down in
1749, with great quantities of stores and provisions.
It was, however, subsequently rebuilt, and now
comprises extensive ranges of stores, workshops,
and sheds, with river-side wharf, and all the
necessary machinery and appliances for loading
and unloading vessels and carrj-ing on the req\iisite
work in the yard. This place is the depot from
which the two other victualling yards — those at
Devonport and Gosport— are furnished, and is con-
siderably the largest of the three. From it the
navy is supplied with provisions, clothing, bedding,
medicines, and medical comforts, &c. In former
times, and down to a comparatively recent date,
cattle were slaughtered here ; but this has been
abandoned. At the proper season, however, beef
and pork are received in "very large quantities, and
salted and packed in barrels ; meat boiled and
preserved in tin canisters, on Hogarth's system of
preserving ; wheat ground ; biscuits made ; and
tlie barrels in which all are stored manufactured in
a large steam cooperage. The stock of medicine
constantly kept in store is sufficient for 5,000 men
for six months ; but the demand for it is so great
and regular that supplies arrive and leave almost
daily. The general direction of the yard rests with

Deptford.]

THE TRINITY HOUSE CORPORATION.

159

a. resident superintending storekeeper, and in all
about 500 persons are employed on the establish-
ment.

On the west side of the Royal Victualling Yard
is a goods depot of the Brighton and South-Coast
Railway. It occupies the site of what was formerly
Dudman's Dock, and comprises a basin and quay
for the landing of goods from vessels coming up
the Thames, and also extensive ranges of store-
houses, &c. It is connected with the above-
mentioned railway by a branch line from New
Cross, which passes over the Deptford Lower
Road.

" Besides its dock and victualling yard," writes
Dr. Mackay, in his "Thames and its Tributaries,"
" Deptford is noted for two hospitals, belonging to
the Corporation of the Trinity House, or the pilots
of London. A grand procession comes (1840)
from London to these hospitals annually on Trinity
Monday, accompanied by music and banners, and
is welcomed by the firing of cannon." Trinity
Monday, we need scarcely say, was a " red-letter
day " in Deptford down to the time when these
visits of the Corporation of the Trinity House
ceased, which was in 1852, on the death of the
Duke of Wellington, who had for many years
held the office of Master. We have in a previous
volume* given an account of the foundation of the
above-mentioned corporation, and also of the duties
appertaining to the society ; we may, however, re-
mark liere that Lambarde. in his " Perambulations
of Kent" (1570), writes concerning Deptford — or,
as he spells it, Depeforde — " This towne, being a
frontier betweene Kent and Surrey, was of none
estimation at all, untill that King Henry the VIII.
advised (for the better preservation of the royall
fleete) to erect a storehouse, and to create certaine
officers there ; these he incorporated by the name
of the Maister and Wardeins of the Holie Trinitie,
for the building, keeping, and conducting of the
Navie Royall." It would appear from this that
Henry VIII. established the Trinity House about
the same time that he constituted the Admiralty
and the Navy Office. Charles Knight, in his
" London," however, says that " some expressions
in the earliest charters of the corporation that
have been preserved, and the general analogy of
the history of English corporations, lead us to
believe that Henry merely gave a new chartei,
and entrusted the discharge of important duties
to a guild or incorporation of seamen which had
existed long before. AVhen there was no per-
manent royal navy, and even after one had been

• See Vol. II., p. 115.

created, so long as vessels continued to be pressed
in war time as well as men, the King of England
had to repose much more confidence in the wealthier
masters of the merchant-service than now. They
were at sea what his feudal chiefs were on shore.
Their guild, or brotherhood, of the Holy Trinity
of Deptford Strond was probably tolerated at first
in the assumption of a power to regulate the
entry and training of apprentices, the licensing of
journeymen, and the promotion to the rank of
master in their craft, in the same way as learned
and mechanical corporations did on shore. To a
body which counted among its members the best
mariners of Britain, came not unusually to be
entrusted the ballastage and pilotage of the river.
By degrees its jurisdiction came to be extended to
such other English ports as had not, like the
Cinque Ports, privileges and charters of their own ;
and in course of time the jurisdiction of the Trinity
House became permanent in these matters, with
the exception of the harbours we have named,
over the whole coast of England from a little way
north of Yarmouth on the east to the frontiers of
Scotland on the west. Elizabeth, always ready to
avail herself of the costless service of her citizens,
confided to this corporation the charge of English
sea-marks. When lighthouses were introduced, the
judges pronounced them comprehended in the
terms of Elizabeth's charter, although a right of
chartering private lighthouses was reserved to the
Crown. A\^en the navigation laws were introduced
by Cromwell, and re-enacted by the government at
the Restoration, the Trinity House presented itself
as an already organised machinery for enforcing
the regulations respecting the number of aliens
admissible as mariners on board a British vessel.
James II., when he ascended the throne, was well
aware of the use that could be made of the Trinity
House, and he gave it a new charter, and the
constitution it still retains, nominating as the first
master of the reconstructed corporation his in-
valuable Pepys."

The establishment of the Corporation of the
Trinity House here is a proof that Deptford was
already a rendezvous for shipping and the resort of
seamen. The ancient hall in Deptford, at which
the meetings of this society were formerly held, was
taken down about the beginning of the present
century, and the building erected on Tower Hill,
which we have already noticed in the volume above
referred to. Evelyn, in his " Diary," under date ot
1662, writes: "I dined with the Trinity Company
at their house, that corporation being by charter
fixed at Deptford." Evelyn's wife, as it appears
from his " Diary," gave to the Trmity House

i6o

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Deptford.

Corporation the site for their college, or alms-
houses.

Notwithstanding that the Corporation of the
Trinity House ceased to hold their meetings here
■ after the building of their new hall, their connection
with Deptford was till very recently marked by
their two hospitals for decayed master mariners
and pilots and their widows. In the "Ambu-
lator" (1774) we thus read: "In this town are
two hospitals, of which one was incorporated by
< King Henry VHL, in the form of a college for
the use of the seamen, and is commonly called
'Trinity House of Deptford Strond.' This con-
tains twenty-one houses, and is situated near the
church. The other, called Trinity Hospital, has
thirty-eight houses fronting the street. This is
a very handsome edifice, and has large gardens,
well kept, belonging to it. Though this last-
named is the finer structure of the two, yet the
other has the preference, on account of its an-
tiquity; and as the Brethren of the Trinity hold
their corporation by that house, they are obliged
at certain times to meet there for business. Both
these houses are for decayed pilots, or masters of
ships, or their widows, the men being allowed twenty
and the women sixteen shillings a month."

Both these buildings have within the last few
years been " disestablished," so far as their use
as almshouses is concerned. One of them, a tri-
angular block of houses, comprising about twenty
dwellings standing on the green at the back of St.
Nicholas' Church, a short distance eastward from
the Foreign Cattle Market, is at present let out
in weekly tenements ; the other, known as the
" Trinity House, Deptford," was a large and note-
worthy old red-brick quadrangular pile, fronting
Church Street, and overlooking the burial-ground of
St. Paul's Church. It was rebuilt in 1664-5, ^"d
was demolished, with the exception of the hall, in
the early part of the year 1S77, to make room
for a new street, and a row of private houses in
Church Street. In the great hall at the back of
the building, which has been left standing, the
Master and Elder Brethren of the Trinity House
used, down to the period above mentioned, to
assemble on Trinity Monday, and, after transacting
the formal business, walk in state to the parish
church of St. Nicholas, where there was a special
service and sermon. On the conclusion of the
ceremony in Deptford the company returned to
London in their state barges, the shipping and
wharves on the Thames being gaily decked with
bunting in honour of the occasion, and the pro-
ceedings of the day closed with a grand banquet
at the Trinity House. Both the meeting and the

banquet are now held at the new Trinity House
on Tower Hill, and the sermon is preached in
Pepys' favourite church of St. Olave, Hart Street,
near the Custom House and Corn Exchange.

The town of Deptford contains, as we have
stated above, two parish churches, dedicated re-
spectively to St. Nicholas and St. Paul, besides
which there are the churches of four recently-
formed ecclesiastical districts, together with several
chapels of ail denominations. The old church of
St. Nicholas, the patron saint of seafaring men,
occupies the site of a much older edifice, and,
with the exception of the tower, dates from the
end of the seventeenth century. John Evelyn, in
his " Diary" for 1699, records the building of "a
pretty new church " here. The ancient church, it
appears, was pulled down in 1697, in consequence
of its being found inadequate to the wants of the
increasing population. Whatever beauty the new
church may have possessed in Evelyn's eyes, it
does not seem to have been very substantially
built, for it underwent a "thorough restoration"
before twenty years had passed away. The body
of the church is a plain dull red-brick structure,
consisting of nave, aisles, and chancel. At the
western end is an embatded tower of stone and
flint, somewhat patched ; this tower is of the Per-
pendicular period, or early part of the fifteenth
centur)', and the only relic of the old church. The
interior contains a few monuments of some former
Deptford worthies, among them one of Captain
Edward Eenton, who accompanied Sir Martin
Frobisher in his second and third voyages, and
had himself the command of an expedition for
the discovery of a north-west passage ; another of
Captain George Shelvocke, who was bred to the
sea-service under Admiral Benbow, and who, " in
the years of Our Lord 1719, '20, '21, and '22, per-
formed a voyage round the globe of the world,
which he most wonderfully, and to the great loss
of the Spaniards, compleated, though in the midst of
it he had the misfortune to suffer shipwreck upon
the Lsland of Juan Fernandez, on the coast of the
kingdom of Chili." He died in 1742. Another
monument records the death, in 1652, of Peter
Pett, a " master shipwright in the King's Vard,"
whose family were long distinguished for their
superior talents in ship-building, and who was him-
self the inventor of that once useful ship of Woir,
the frigate. The register of this church records
also the burial here of Christopher Marlowe, or
Marlow, the dramatist. He was born in 1563-4.
The son of a slioemaker at Canterbury, and having
been educated in the King's School of that city,
he took his degree in due course at Cambridge.

Deptford ]

ST. PAUL'S CHURCH.

i6i

On quitting college he became connected with
the stage, and was one of the most celebrated
of Shakespeare's immediate predecessors. He is
styled by Heywood the " best of poets ; " and this
may possibly have been true, for no great drama-
tist preceded him, whilst his fiery imagination
and strokes of passion communicated a peculiar
impulse to those who came after him. He was the
author of six tragedies, and joined with Nash and
Day in the production of two others. The plots
of his pieces assumed a more regular character
than those of previous dramatists, and no doubt
he would have become even more celebrated if
he had not been cut off in a strange affray. The
entry in the parish register runs simply thus : —
" ist June, 1593. Christopher Marlow, slaine by
Francis Archer."

In this church lie the two sons of John Evelyn,
whose early deaths he records in his " Diary " for
1658, in the most touching phrases. Sir Richard
Browne, Evelyn's father-in-law, the owner of Saye's
Court, died there in 1683, and was buried at his
own desire outside this church, under the south-
east windovv-^not in the interior, considering that
interments in churches were unwholesome. He
was evidently in advance of his age.

Before passing on to St. Paul's Church, we may
remark that Dr. Lloyd, curate of Deptford in
Evelyn's day, was promoted to the see of Llandaff,
and that the register of the old church contains
records of the following instances of longevity : —
Maudlin Augur, buried in December, 1672, aged
106; Catherine Perry, buried in December, 1676,
" by her own report, 1 1 o years old ; " Sarah Mayo,
buried in August, 1705, aged 102; and Elizabeth
Wiborn, buried in December, 17 14, in her loist
year.

The church of St. Paul, a good example of the
Romanesque style, is situated between the High
Street and Church Street, near the railway station.
It was built in 1730, on the division of Deptford
into two parishes, as above stated ; and was one
of the churches " erected under the provisions of
certain acts passed in the reign of Queen Anne,
for the building of fifty new churches in and near
London." It is a solid-looking stone building,
with a semi-circular flight of steps and a portico of
Corinthian columns at the western end, above which
rises a tapering spire ; the body of the fabric con-
sists of nave, aisles, and a shallow chancel, the
roof being supported by two rows of Corinthian
columns. The heavy galleries, old-fashioned pews,
carved pulpit, and dark oak fittings of the chancel,
impart to the interior a somewhat sombre effect.
Among the monuments in this church is one by

Nollekens, in memory of Admiral Sayer, who
" first planted the British flag in the island of
Tobago," and who died in 1760. In the church-
yard is the tomb of Margaret Hawtree, who died
in 1 734 ; it is inscribed as follows : —

" She was an indulgent mother, and the best of wives;
She biouglit into this world more than tlirce thousand
lives ! "

The explanation of this, as Lysons informs us, is,
that she was an '" eminent midwife," and that she
evinced the interest she took in her calling by
giving a silver basin for christenings to this parish,
and another to that of St. Nicholas. Dr. Charles
Burney, the Greek scholar and critic, whose large
classical library was purchased after his death, in
1 81 7, for the British Museum, was for some time
rector of St. Paul's. The old rectory-house, on
the south side of the churchyard, a singular-looking
red-brick structure, said to have been designed by
Vanbrugh, was pulled down in 1883.

Close by the station on the London and Green-
wich Railway, which here crosses the High Street,
is the Roman Catholic Church of the Assumption.
It is a plain brick-built structure, with lancet
windows and an open roof, and was commenced
in 1844. A temporary chapel, which had been
provided in the previous year, was, on the opening
of the church, made to do duty as a school.
Adjoining the church is a presbytery, which was
built in 1855. The Roman Catholics are some-
what numerous in Deptford, a fact which may
perhaps be attributed to the large number of Irish
formerly employed in the dockyard and on the
wharves in the neighbourhood. Close by, are St.
Vincent's Industrial School (Roman Catholic) and
the Deptford Industrial Home and Refuge for
Destitute Boys.

In Evelyn Street, as the thoroughfare connecting
the High Street with the Deptford Lower Road is
called, stands St. Luke's Church, a substantial and
well-built Gothic edifice, erected in 1872, mainly
at the cost of the present head of the Evelyn
fiiinily, Mr. William J. Evelyn, of Wotton.

Near St. Luke's Church the Grand Surrey Canal
passes under the roadway at the end of Evelyn
Street, on its way towards Camberwell and Peck-
ham. Apropos of canals, we may state that in the
Montldy Register for 1803, it is announced, with
becoming gravit)', that " Another canal of great
national importance is about to be constructed
from Deptford to Portsmouth and Southampton,
passing by Guildford, Godalming, and ^^■inchester."
After giving the estimate, the editor remarks in a
manner which, with our subsequent experience of
half a century and more, will cause a smile : " A

l62

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Deptfori

canal, in this instance, is to be preferred to an iron
railway road, because the expense of carriage by a
canal is much cheaper than that of carriage by a
railway. It has been found, for instance, that sixty
tons of corn could not be carried from Portsmouth
to London for less than ^125 los. ; but that by a
canal the same quantity of grain may be conveyed
the same distance for an expense not exceeding
^49 5s." We need scarcely add that this canal
was never carried out.

the place, culled from his " Diary." Under date
June 3, 1658, he writes: — "A large whale was
taken betwixt my land butting on the Thames and
Greenwich, which drew an infinite concourse to see
it, by water, coach, and on foote, from London
and all parts. It appeared first below Greenwich
at low water, for at high water it would have
destroyed all the boats ; but lying now in shallow
water, incompassed with boats, after a long con-
flict it was killed with a harping yron, struck in the

.1. MCliklLAS CUURlH, in.l IIUKI), IN I79O.

Among the most famous residents of Deptford,
besides the C/.ar Peter and John Evelyn, Dr.
Mackay enumerates Cowley, the poet, and the
Earl of Nottingham, Lord High Admiral of Eng-
land, who played so leading a part in the defeat of
the Sjianish Armada. "The house which he in-
habited," writes Dr. Mackay, " was afterwards con-
verted into a tavern and named the ' Gun ; ' and
his armorial bearings, sculptured over the chimney-
piece of the principal ajiartment, were long shown
to curious visitors."

The name of John Evelyn is so closely asso-
ciated with the past history of Deptford, that we
may be pardoned for closing this chapter witli one
or two amusing scraps of information concerning

head, out of which it spouted blood and water by
two tunnclls, and after a honid gronc it ran i|uite
on shore and died. Its length was fifty-eight foote,
height sixteen, black skin'd like coach-leather, very
small eyes, greate taile, and onely two small finns,
a picked snout, and a mouth so wide that divers
men might have stood upright in it ; no teeth, but
suck'd the slime onely as thro' a grate of tliat bone
which we call wliale-bone ; the throate yet so
narrow as would not have admitted the least of
fishes. The extremes of the cetaceoiis bones hang
downwards from the upper jaw ; and was hairy
towards the ends and bottom within-side ; all of it
jirodigious ; but in nothing more wonderful than
tliat an animal of so greate a hulk sliould be

Deptford.]

ORIGIN OF THE BLACK DOLL.

163

nourished onely by slime through those grates."
Again, under date March 26, 1699: "After an
e.\traordinary storm there came up the Thames a
whale fifty-six feet long. Such, and a larger one
of the spout kind, was killed there forty years ago,
June, 1658; that year died Cromwell." Whether

trade in this great metropolis ; and, as might be
expected, the side streets of the town swarm with
second-hand shops, some of which, it is to be
feared, are made repositories for stolen goods.
One of these shops, with its sign of a huge black
doll, is graphically described by M. Alphonse

JOHN EVELYN.

]'>elyn regarded the appearance of a whale in the
Thames as an omen it would be difficult to say.

At another time Evelyn gravely tells us how
he dined with the Archbishop of Canterbury, at
Lambeth, and stayed late, "and yet returned to
Deptford at night." What would he have said
now, in these days of tram-cars and railways ?

Deptford has the honour of having been the
birthplace of the rag and bottle, or " marine store,"

Esquiros, in the second series of his "English at
Home." He enters into the traditional origin of
the black doll as a sign, as first adopted by a
woman who, travelling abroad, brought back with
her a black baby as a speculation, but finding that
such an article had no value in England, wrapped
it up in a bundle of rags and sold it to one of the
founders of the trade. The little nigger was reared
at the e.'cpense of the parish — so goes the story—

164.

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

grew up and married, opened a shop in this same
hne of business, made a fortune, and is said to
have been the ancestress of all the dealers from
that day to this. In order to account for this fact,
it is said that she and her children started fifty-
shops, at each of which a black doll was hung out
as a sign. Some of these dolls have three heads,
and, if we may believe M. Esquiros, this is a
symbol of the trade extending through the three
kingdoms. It is only fair, however, to add that he
remarks, " I am afraid that the explanation given
by the owners of these shops will not satisfy anti-
quaries, who have adopted a far more probable
opinion, namely, that these repositories are the
successors of the old shops where Indian and

Chinese curiosities were sold, and which had a
'joss' — a sort of Chinese idol — for their sign."

The rag and bottle shops are the places whence
rags are supplied to the wholesale dealer, who
sells them to the owners of the paper-mills which
abound near Dartford. It is not a little singular,
however, that many of the rags have crossed the
seas, and have found their way to England from
Germany and even from India and Australia.
Charles Dickens, in his "Sketches by Boz," men-
tions the marine store shops of Lambeth, and also
those of the neighbourhood of the King's Bench
prison. Is it possible that he could have been
ignorant of their connection with Deptford, or of
the romantic story above mentioned ?

CHAPTER XIH.
GREENWICH.

" On Thames's bank, in silent thought we stood
Where Greenwich smiles upon the silver Hood ;
Struck with the seat that gave Eliza birth.
We kneel, and kiss the consecrated earth,
In pleasing dreams the blissful age renew,
And call Britannia's glories back to view.
Behold her cross triumphant on the main,
The guard of commerce and the dread of Spain.'

-Dr. JoJntsfln's " London**

Situation and Origin of the Name of Greenwich — Early History of the Place — The Murder of Archbishop Alphege — Encampments of the Danes—
The Manor of Greenwich— The Building of Greenwich Palace, or " PLacentia " — Jousts and Tournaments performed here in the Reign of
Edward IV. — Henry VIII. at Greenwich — Festivities held here during this Reign — Birth of Queen Elizabeth — The Downfall of Anne
Boleyn — Marriage of Henry VIII. with Anne of Cleves — Will Sommers, the Court Jester— Queen Elizabeth's Partiality for Greenwich — The
Order of the Garter— The Queen and the Coinur>-man— Maundy Thursday Observances — Personal Appearance of Queen Elizabeth— Sir
Walter Raleigh— Greenwich Palace settled by James I. on his Queen, Anne of Denmark— Charles I. a Resident here— The Palace during
the Commonwealth— Proposals for Rebuilding the Palace— The Foundation of Greenwich Hospital.

The town and parliamentary borough of Greenwich,
which we now enter, lies immediately eastward of
Deptford, from which parish it is separated by the
river Ravensbourne. As to the origin of the
name, Lambarde, in his "Perambulations of Kent,"
says that in Saxon times it was styled Grennnc—
that is, the "green town;" and the transition from
vie to wich in the termination is easy. Lambarde
adds that in " ancient evidences " it was written
" East Greenewiche," to distinguish it from Dept-
ford, which, as we have already stated, is called
"West Greenewiche" in old documents. Under
the liame of West Greenwich it returned two mem-
bers to Parliament, in the reign of Elizabeth ; but
no fresh instance of such an lionour is recorded in
its subsequent history. Down to about the time
of Henry V. the place was known chiefly as a
fishing-village, being adapted to that use by the
secure road or anchorage which the river afforded
at this spot. It was a favourite station with the
old Northmen, whose " host " was frequently

encamped on the high ground southward and
eastward of the town, now called Blackheath. In
; the reign of King Ethelred, when the Danes made
: an attack on London Bridge, a portion of their
I fleet lay in the river off Greenwich, whilst the re-
mainder was quartered in the Ravensbourne Creek
at Deptford. It was to Greenwich that, after
their raid upon Canterbury in ion, the Danes
brought Archbishop Alphege to their camp, where
he was kept a prisoner for several months ; and
the foundation of the old parish church of Green-
wich, which we shall presently notice, was probably
intended to mark the public feeling as to the
memorable event that closed his personal history.
A native of England, St. Alphege was first abbot
of Bath, then Bishop of Winchester, in A.D. 984,
and twelve years later translated to the see of
Canterbury. On the storming of that city by the
Danes uiuler Thurkili, in the year above mentioned,
he distinguished himself by the courage with which
he defended the place for twenty days against their

Greenwich.]

THE MURDER OF ARCHBISHOP ALPHEGE.

165

assaults. Treachery, liowever, then opened the
gates, and Alphege, having been made prisoner,
was loaded with chains, and treated with the
greatest severity, in order to make him follow
the example of his worthless sovereign Ethelrcd,
and purchase an ignominious hberty with gold.
Greenwich, as we have stated, at that time formed
the Danish head- quarters, and hither the arch-
bishop was conveyed. Here he was tempted by
the offer of a lower rate of ransom ; again and
again he was urged to yield by every kind of
threat and solicitation. " You press me in vain,"
was the noble Saxon's answer; "I am not the
man to provide Christian flesh for Pagan teeth
by robbing my poor countrymen to enrich their
enemies." At last the patience of the heathen
Danes was worn out ; so one day, after an im-
prisonment of seven months' duration (the 19th
of April, 1012 — on which day his festival is still
kept in the Roman Catholic Church), they sent
for the archbishop to a banquet, when their blood
was inflamed by wine, and on his appearance
saluted him with tumultuous cries of " Gold ! gold !
Bishop, give us gold, or thou shalt to-day become
a public spectacle." Calm and unmoved, Alpliege
gazed on the circle of infuriated men who hemmed
him in, and who presently began to strike him with
the flat sides of their battle-axes, and to fling at
him the bones and horns of the oxen that had
been slain for the feast. And thus he would have
been slowly murdered, but for one Thrum, or
Guthrum, a Danish soldier, who had been con-
verted by Alphege, and who now in mercy smote
him with the edge of his weapon, when he fell
dead. " It is storied," writes Hone, in his " Every-
day Book," quoting from the "Golden Legend,"
" that when St. Alphege was imprisoned at Green-
wich, the devil appeared to him in the likeness of
an angel, and tempted him to follow him into a
dark valley, over which he wearily walked through
hedges and ditches, till at last, when he was stuck
in a most foul mire, the devil vanished, and a real
angel appeared, and told St. Alphege to go back
to prison and be a martyr ; and so he gained a
martyr's crown. Then after his death, an old
rotten stake was driven into his body, and those
who drove it said, that if on the morrow the stake
was green, and bore leaves, they would believe;
whereupon the stake flourished, and the drivers
thereof repented, as they said they would, and the
body being buried at St. Paul's Church, in London,
worked miracles."

From the encampments of the Danes in this
place may possibly be traced the names of East
Coombe and West Coombe, two estates on the

borders of Blackheath — coomb, as well as coiiip,
signifying a cavip.

The manor of Greenwich, called in the. early
records East Greenwich, as we have already seen,
belonged formerly to the abbey of St. Peter at
Ghent. It remained in the possession of the
monks, however, but for a very short time, being
seized by the Crown upon the disgrace of Odo,
Bishop of Bayeux. At the dissolution of the alien
priories it was granted by King Henry V. to the
monastery of Sheen, or Richmond. Henry VI.
granted it to his uncle, Humphrey, Duke of Glou-
cester, wlio was so pleased with the spot that he
built on it a palace, extending, with its various
courts and gardens, from the river to the foot of
the hill on which the Observatory now stands.
Upon his death it became again the property of
the Crown. The royal manors of East and West
Greenwich and of Deptford-le-Strond still belong
to the sovereign, whose chief steward has his
official residence at Macartney House, on Black-
heath.

According to Lysons, in his " Environs of
London," however, there appears to have been
a royal residence here as early as the reign of
Edward I., when that monarch " made an offering
of seven shillings at each of the holy crosses in
the chapel of the Virgin Mary, at Greenwicke, and
the prince an offering of half that sum ; " though
by whom the palace was erected is not known.
Henry IV. dated his will from his " Manor of
Greenwich, January 22nd, 1408," and the place
appears to have been his favourite residence. The
grant of 200 acres of land in Greenwich, made by
Henry VI. to Duke Humphrey, in 1433, was for
the purpose of enclosing it as a park. Four years
later the duke and Eleanor, his wife, obtained a
similar grant, and in it licence was given to its
owners to " embattle and build with stone " their
manor of Greenwich, as well as "to enclose and
make a tower and ditch within the same, and a
certain tower within the park to build and edify."
Accordingly, soon after this, Duke Humphrey
commenced building the tower within the park,
now the site of the Royal Observator}', which was
then called Greenwich Castle ; and he likewise
rebuilt: the palace on the spot where the west
wing of the Royal Hospital — or, more properly
speaking. Royal Naval College — now stands, which
he named from its agreeable situation, Pleazaunce,
or Placentia; but this name was not commonly
used until the reign of Henry VIII. Edward IV.
enlarged the park, and stocked it with deer, and
then bestowed the palace as a residence upon
his queen, Elizabeth Woodville. In this reign a

t66

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

royal Joust or tournament v.'as performed at Green-
wich, on the occasion of the marriage of Richard,
Duke of York, with Anne Mowbray. In 1482
the Lady Mary, the king's daughter, died here;
she was betrothed to the King of Denmark, but
died before the solemnisation of the marriage.
Henry VIL having — as shown in a previous page*
— committed Elizabeth, queen of Edward IV., on
some frivolous pretence, to close confinement in
the Abbey at Bermondsey, where some years after-
wards she ended her days amidst poverty and
solitude, the manor and appurtenances of Green-
wich came into his possession. He then enlarged
the palace, adding a brick front towards the river-
side ; finished the tower in the park, which had
been commenced by Duke Humphrey ; and built
a convent adjoining the palace for the Order of
the Grey Friars, who came to Greenwich about
the latter end of the reign of Edward IV., " from
whom," says Lambarde, "they obtained, in 1480,
by means of Sir William Corbidge, a chaiintrie,
with a little Chapel of the Holy Cross." The
convent above mentioned, after its dissolution in
the reign of Henry VIII., was re-founded by Queen
Mar)', but finally suppressed by Elizabeth soon
after her accession.

Henry VIII. was bom at Greenwich in June,
1 49 1, and baptised in the parish church by the
Bishop of Exeter, Lord Privy Seal. This monarch
spared no expense to render Greenwich Palace
magnificent ; and, perhaps from partiality to the
place of his birth, he resided chiefly in it, neglect-
ing for it the palace at Eltham, which had been
the favourite residence of his ancestors. Many
sumptuous banquets, revels, and solemn jousts, for
which his reign was celebrated, were held at his
"Manor of Pleazaunce." On the 3rd of June, 1509,
Henry's marriage with Catherine of Arragon was
solemnised here. Holinshed, in his "Chronicles,"
informs us how that on May-day, in 1511, "the
king lying at Grenewich, rode to the wodde to
fetch May ; and after, on the same day, and the
two daycs next ensuing, the King, Sir Edward
Howard, Charles Brandon, and Sir Edward Nevill,
as challengers, held jousts against all comers. On
the other parte the Marquis Dorset, the Earls of
Essex and Devonshire, with other, as defendauntes,
ranne againstc them, so that many a sore stripe
was given, and many a staffc broken." On May
15th other jousts were held here, as also in 1516,
151 7, and 1526. In 15 12 the king kept his
Christmas at Greenwich "with great and plentiful
cheer," and in the following year "with great

Sec anttt p. 119.

solemnity, dancing, disguisings, mummeries, in a
most princely manner." In an account of Green-
wich and Hampton Court Palaces, in Chambers's
Journal, the writer observes: — "Henry VUI., up
to middle age, always kept Christmas with great
festivity at one or other of these palaces. Artificial
gardens, tents, &c., were devised in the hall, out of
which came dancers, or knights, who fought. After
a few )'ears Henry contented himself with a duller
Christmas, and generally gambled a good deal on
the occasion. In the brief reign of Edward VI. a
gentleman named Ferrers was made the ' Lord of
Misrule,' and was very clever in inventing plays
and interludes. The money lavished on these
entertainments was enormous ; one of his lordship's
dresses cost fifty-two pounds, and he had besides
a train of counsellors, gendemen ushers, pages,
footmen, &c. Mary and Elizabeth both kept
Christmas at Hampton Court ; but the entertain-
ments of the latter were far gayer than those of
her sister."

The following amusing account of these Christmas
festivities may be appropriately quoted here from
Hall's " Chronicles ;" — " The king, after Pariiament
was ended, kept a solenme Christemas at Grene-
wicke to chere his nobles, and on the twelfe daie
at night, came into the hall a mount, called the
riche mount. The mount was sett ful of riche
flowers of silke, and especially full of brome
slippes full of coddes ; the braunches wer grene
sattin, and the flowers flat gold of damaske,
whiche signified Plantagenet. On the top stode
a goodly bekon, gevyng light ; rounde about the
bekon sat the Kyng and five other, al in coates
and cappes of right crimosin velvet, embroudered
with flat golde of damaske; the coates set full of
spangelles of gold. And four woodhouses drewe
the mount till it came before the Quene, and
then the Kyng and his compaignie descended and
daunced ; then sodainly the mount opened, and
out came sixe ladies, all in crimosin satin ami
plunket embroudered with gold and perle, and
French hoddes on their heddes, and thei daunced
alone. Then the lordes of the mount took the
ladies, and daunced together; and the ladies
re-entred, and the mount closed, and so was
conveighed out of the hall. Then the Kyng
shifted hym and came to the Quene, and sat at
the bani|ute, which was very sumpteous." At
the Christmas festivities in 151 5 was introduced
the first masquerade ever seen in England. The
following account of it and the other ceremonies
on the occasion, given in the work above quoted,
may not prove uninteresting, as it affords some
insight into the amusements of the period :—

Creenwich.J

THE ROYAL PALACE.

167

" The Kyng this yere kept the feast of Christmas
at Grenewich, wher was such abundance of viandes
served to all comers of any honest behaviors, as
hatli been few times seen ; and against New-yere's
night was made, in the hall, a castle, gates, towers,
and dungeon, garnished with artilerie and weapon
after the most warlike fashion ; and on the frount
of the castle was written, Le Fortresse daiigents ;
and within the castle wer six ladies clothed in
russet satin laid all over with leves of golde, and
every owde knit with laces of blewe silke and
golde, on tlier heddes coyfes and cappes all of
gold. After this castle had been carried about
the hal [hall], and the Quene had behelde it, in
came the Kyng with five other appareled in coates,
the one halfe of russet satyn spangled with spangels
of fine gold, and the other halfe rich clothe of
gold ; on ther heddes caps of russet satin, em-
broudered with workes of fine gold bullion. These
six assaulted the castle, the ladies seyng them so
lustie and coragious wer content to solace with
them, and upon further communicacion to yeld the
castle, and so thei came down and daunced a long
space. And after the ladies led the knightes into
the castle, and then the castle sodainly vanished
out of ther sightes. On the daie of the Epiphanie,
at nighte, the Kyng with xi other wer disguished
after the manner of Italie, called a maske, a thing
not seen afore in Englande ; thei wer appareled
in garmentes long and brode, wrought all with
gold, with visers and cappes of gold ; and, after
the banket doen, those maskers came in with six
gentlemen disguised in silke, bearing staffe torches,
and desired the ladies to daunce; some wer content,
and some that knewe the fashion of it refused,
because it was not a thing commonly seen. And
after thei daunced and commoned together, as
the fashion of the maske is, thei tooke ther leave
and departed, and so did the Quene and all the
ladies."

At the palace here both of the daughters of
Henry YHL, Mary and Elizabeth, first saw the
light. On the 13th of May, 1515, the marriage of
Mary, Queen Dowager of France (Henry's sister),
with Charles Brandon, Duke of Sufiblk, was pub-
licly solemnised in the parish church of Greenwich.

Of the many splendid receptions and sumptuous
entertainments of foreign princes and ministers,
that which was given here in 1527 to the French
ambassadors appears to have been particularly
striking ; so much so, in fact, that honest old John
Stow is obliged to confess that he "lacked head
of fine wit, and also cunning in his bowels," to
describe it with sufficient eloquence. This em-
bassy, we are told, that it might correspond with

the English Court in magnificence, consisted of eight
persons of high quality, attended by six hundred
horse ; they were received with the greatest honours, t
" and entertained after a more sumptuous manner
than had ever been seen before." The great
tilt-yard was covered over, and converted into a
banqueting-room. The Hampton Court banquet
given by Wolsey to the same personages just
before was, says the annalist, a marvellously sump-
tuous affair ; yet this at Greenwich excelled it " as
much as gold excels silver," and no beholder had
ever seen the like. "In the midst of the banquet
there was tourneying at the barriers, with lusty
gentlemen in complete harness, very gorgeous, on
foot ; then there was tilting on horseback with
knights in armour, still more magnificent ; and
after this was an interlude or disguising, made in
Latin, the players being in the richest costumes,
ornamented with the most strange and grotesque
devices. This done," Stow further tells us, " there
came such a number of the fairest ladies and
gentlewomen that had any renown of beauty
throughout the realm, in the most rich apparel
that could be devised, with whom the gentlemen
of France danced, until a gorgeous mask of gentle-
men came in, who danced and masked with these
ladies. This done, came in another mask of ladies,
who took each of them one of the Frenchmen by
the hand to dance and to mask. These women
maskers every one spoke good French to the
Frenchmen, which delighted them very much to
hear their mother tongue. Thus was the night
consumed, from five of the clock until three of the
clock after midnight."

" After the king's marriage to Anne Boleyn,"
writes Charles Mackay, in his "Thames and its
Tributaries," " he took her to reside at Greenwich ;
and when it pleased him to declare the marriage
publicly, and have her crowned, he ordered the
Lord Mayor to come to Greenwich in state, and
escort her up the river to London. It was on
the 19th of May, 1533, and Father Thames had
never before borne on his bosom so gallant an
array. First of all the mayor and aldermen, with
their scarlet robes and golden chains, followed
by the common councilmen in their robes, and
by all the officers of the City in their costume,
with triumphant music swelling upon the ear, and
their gay banners floating upon the breeze, walked
down to the water-side, where they found their
own barges ready to receive them, and fifty other
barges filled with the various City companies, await-
ing the signal of departure. Then, amid the firing
of cannon, and the braying of trumpets, the pro-
cession started. A foist, or large flat-bottomed boat.

1 68

OLD AND NEW LONDOM.

f^reenwicti.

took the lead, impelled by several fellows dressed
out to represent devils, who at intervals spouted
out blue and red flames from their mouths, and
threw balls of fire into the water. ' Terrible and
monstrous wild men they were,' says Stow, ' and
made a hideous noise. In the midst of them sat a
great red dragon, moving itself continually about,
and discharging fire-balls of various colours into
the air, whence they fell into the water with a

gold. When they arrived at Greenwich, they cast
anchor, ' making all the while great melody.' They
waited thus until three o'clock, when the queen
appeared, attended by the Duke of Suflblk, the
Marquis of Dorset, the Earl of Wiltshire, her
father, the Earls of Arundel, Derby, Rutland,
Worcester, Huntingdon, Sussex, 0.xford, and many
other noblemen and bishops, each one in his barge.
In this order they rowed up the Thames to the

PLALI.NllA, 1^00.

hissing sound. Next came the Eord Mayor's barge, '
attended by a small barge on the right side filled
with musicians. It was richly hung with cloth of
gold and silver, and bore the two embroidered
banners of the king and queen, besides escutcheons
splendidly wrought in every part of the vessel. On
the left side was another foist, in the which was a
mount, and on the mount stood a white falcon, j
crowned, upon a root of gold, environed with
white and red roses, which was the Queen's device,
and about the mount sat virgins, singing and play-
ing melodiously.' Then came the sheriffs and
the aldermen, and the common councilmcn and
the City companies, in regular procession, each
barge having its own banners and devices, and
most of them being hung with arras and cloth of

Tower stairs, where the king was waiting to receive
his bride, whom he kissed ' aflectionately and with
a loving countenance,' in sight of all the people
that lined the shores of the river, and covered all
the housetops in such multitudes that Stow was
afraid to mention the number, lest posterity should
accuse him of exaggeration."

Here, on the 7th of September following, was born,
writes Miss lAicy Aikin, "under circumstances as
peculiar as her after life proved eventful and illus-
trious," Elizabeth, daughter of King Henry VIII. by
his second consort, .^nne Rolcyn. Her birth is thus
quaintly but prettily recorded by the contemporary
historian Hall : — " On the 7th day of September,
being Sunday, between three and four o'clock in
the afternoon, the queen was delivered of a faire

Greenwich.!

THE DOWNFAT.L OF ANNE BOLF.YN.

169

l:ulye, on which day the Duke of Norfolk came
home to the christening." The Princess was bap-
tised on the Wednesday following, in the midst of
great pomp and ceremony, at the neighbouring
church of the Grey Friars, but of which ancient
edifice not a single vestige is now remaining.

in his work on the " Thames and its Tributaries,"
" had continued to reside alternately at the palaces
of Placentia and Hampton Court until the year
1536, when poor Anne Boleyn became no longer
pleasing in the eyes of her lord. On May-day
in that year Henry instituted a grand tournament

OLD CONDUIT, GREENWICH PARK, IN iSjS-

In 1536, on May-day, after a tournament, Anne
Boleyn, the mother of the Princess Elizabeth, was
arrested here by order of the king, who saw her
drop her handkerchief, and fancied that it was
meant as a signal to one of her admirers. She
was beheaded on the 19th of the same month, on
Tower Hill, as every reader of English history
knows.

" The royal couple," observes Charles Mackay,
265

in Greenwich Park, at which the queen and her
brother, Lord Rochford, were present. The sports
were at their height, when the king, without
uttering a word to his queen or anybody else,
suddenly took his departure, apparently in an ill-
huraour, and proceeded to London, accompanied
by six domestics. All the tilters were surprised
and chagrined ; but their surprise and chagrin were
light in comparison to those of Anne BoleyiL The

170

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

very same night her brother and his friends, Norris,
Brereton, Weston, and Smeton, were arrested and
-conveyed up the river to the Tower, bound hke
felons. On the following morning the queen
herself was arrested, and a few hours afterwards
conveyed to the same prison, where, on the fifth
day of her captivity, she indited that elegant and
feeling epistle to her tjTant, dated from her ' dole-
full prison in y° Tower,' which every one has read
and hundreds have wept over. The king had long
suspected her truth ; and the offence he took at
the tilting match was that she had dropped her
handkerchief, accidentally it would appear, but
which he conceived to be a signal to a paramour.
On the 19th, the anniversary of her coronation
and triumphal procession from Greenwich three
years before, her young head was smitten from her
body by the axe of the executioner, within the
precincts of that building where she had received
the public kiss, in sight of the multitudes of
London ! Alas ! poor Anne Boleyn ! "

Here, in January, 1540, Henry VIIL, "mag-
nanimously resolving to sacrifice his own feelings
for the good of his country — for once in his life,"
as Miss Lucy Aikin remarks with dry humour, v/as
married " with great magnificence, and with every
outward show of satisfaction," to his fat and un-
gainly consort, Anne of Cleves. Three years later
the king here entertained twenty-one of the Scottish
nobility, whom he had taken prisoners at Salem
Moss, and gave them their liberty without ransom.

It was here that. Will Sonimers, the Court fool to
Henry VHI., was chiefly domesticated. He used
his influence with the king in a way that few Court
favourites — not being " fools " — have done before
or since. He tamed the royal tyrant's ferocity,
and occasionally, at least, urged him on to good
and kind actions, himself giving the example by
his kindness to those who came within the humble
sphere of his influence and act Armin, in his
"Nest of Ninnies," published in 1608, thus de-
scribes this laughing philosopher : " A comely fool
indeed, passing more stately; who was this for-
sooth ? Will Sommcrs, and not meanly esteemed
by the king for his merriment ; his melody was of
a higher straine, and he lookt as the noone broad
waking. His description was writ on liis forehead,
and yee might read it thus : —

' Will Sominers, bom in Shropshire, as some say,
Was brought to Greenwich on a holy clay ;
Presented to (he king, which foole disdayn'il
To shake him by the hand, or else ashamed ;
Ilowe'rc it w.as, as ancient people say,
Willi much adoe was wonnc to it thai day.
Lcane he was, hollow-cy'd, as all report,
And stoope he did, loo ; yet in all the Court

Few men were more belov'd than was this foole,
Whose merry prate kept with the king much rule.
When he was sad the king and he would rime.
Thus Will he e.xil'd sadness many a time.
I could describe him, as I did the rest ;
But in my mind I doe not think it best.
My reason this, howe'er I do descry him,
So many know iiim that I may belye him ;
Therefore to please all people one by one,
I hold it best to let that paines alone.
Only thus much : he was the poore man's friend,
And help'd the widdows often in the end ;
• The king would ever grant what he did crave.
For well he knew Will no exacting knave ;
But wisht the king to do good deeds great store,
Which caus'd the Court to love him more and more.'"

It is a comfort to think that Henry VIIL had at
least one honest and kind-hearted counsellor, even
though he was a — Court fool.

Henry VIIL at one period of his reign was
so much attached to Greenwich Palace, that he
passed more of his time there than at any of his
other royal abodes. He adorned and enlarged it ■
at considerable expense, and made it so magnificent
as to cause Leland, the antiquary, to exclaim with
rapture, as he gazed upon it — ■

" How bright the lofty seat appears.
Like Jove's great palace, paved with stars !
What roofs ! what windows charm the eye !
What turrets, rivals of the sky ! "

Such, at least, is Hasted's translation of Leland's
Latin verses. During the reign of the two suc-
ceeding sovereigns, Greenwich lost that renown for
gaiety wliich it had acquired from the festivals
and constant hospitality of Henry VIIL Here
his son, the boy-king, Edward VI., died on the
6th of July, 1553, not without some suspicion of
poison ; and here Dudley sent for the Lord Mayor,
and aldermen and merchants of London, and
showed them a forged will, or letters patent, giving
the crown to the Lady Jane Grey, who had married
his son.

IMary, too, during her brief reign, was an occa-
sional resident at the Palace of Placentia. It is
recorded that on one occasion of her sojourn here
a very singular accident occurred. The captain of
a vessel proceeding down the Thames, observing
tlie banner of England floating from the walls,
fired the customary salute in honour of royalty.
By some oversight the gun was loaded, and the ball
was driven through the wall into the tjuccn's apart-
ments, to the great terror of herself and her ladies.
None of tlicni, however, received any hurt.

With the reign of Elizabeth the glories of
Greenwich revived. It was -her birthplace, and
tjie favourite residence of her unfortunate mother;
and during the summer months it became, for the

Greenwich.^

QUEEN ELIZABETH.

171

greater part of her reign, the principal seat of her
Court. In the year of her accession she here
reviewed a large force of companies, raised by the
citizens of London in consequence of the Duke of
Norfolk's conspiracy. The number of men present
on this occasion was 1,400, and the proceedings
included a mock fight in the park, which, we are
told, " presented all the appearances of a regular
battle, except the spilling of blood." The follow-
ing is the account of the " entertainment," as told
by Miss Agnes Strickland, in her " Lives of the
Queens of England : " — " The Londoners were so
lovingly disposed to their maiden sovereign, that,
when she withdrew to her summer bowers at
Greenwich, they were fain to devise all sorts of
gallant shows to furnish excuses for following her
there, to enjoy from time to time the sunshine
of her presence. They prepared a sort of civic
tournament in honour of her Majesty, July 2nd,
each company supplying a certain number of men
at arms, 1,400 in all, all clad in velvet and chains
of gold, with guns, morris pikes, halberds, and
flags, and so marched they over London Bridge,
into the Duke of Suffolk's park, at Southwark,
where they mustered before the Lord Mayor;
and, in order to initiate themselves into the hard-
ships of a campaign, they lay abroad in St. George's
Fields all that night. The next morning they set
forward in goodly array, and entered Greenwich
Park at an early hour, where they reposed them-
selves till eight o'clock, and then marched down
into the lawn, and mustered in their arms, all
the gunners being in shirts of mail. It was not,
however, till eventide that her Majesty deigned to
make herself visible to the doughty bands of
Cockaine — chivalry they cannot properly be called,
for they had discreetly avoided exposing civic horse-
manship to the mockery of the gallant equestrians
of the Court, and trusted no other legs than their
cnvn with the weight of their valour and warlike
accoutrements, in addition to their velvet gaber-
dines and chains of gold, in which this midsummer
bevy had bivouacked in St. George's Fields on the
preceding night. At five o'clock the queen came
into the gallery of Greenwich Park gate, with the
ambassadors, lords, and ladies — a fair and nu-
merous company — to witness a tilting match, in
which some of the citizens, and several of her
grace's courtiers took part."

While Elizabeth kept Court at her natal palace
of Greenwich, she regularly celebrated the national
festival on St. George's Day, with great pomp,
as the Sovereign of the Order of the Garter,
combining, according to the custom of the good
old times, a religious service with the picturesque

ordinances of this chivalric institution. " All her
Majesty's chapel came through the liall in copes,
to the number of thirty, singing, ' O God the
Father of heaven,' &c., the outward court to the
gate being strewed with green rushes."

Elizabeth's first chapter of the Order of the
Garter was certainly held in St. George's Hall, at
Greenwich ; for we find that the same afternoon she
went to Baynard's Castle, the Earl of Pembroke's
place, and supped with him, and after supper she
took boat, and was rowed up and down on the
river Thames, hundreds of boats and barges rowing
about her, and thousands of people thronging the
banks of the river to look upon her Majesty, all
rejoicing at her presence, and partaking of the music
and sights on the Thames. It seems there was an
aquatic festival, in honour of the welcome appear-
ance of their new and comely liege lady on the
river ; for the trumpets blew, drums beat, flutes
played, guns were discharged, and fireworks played
off, as she moved from place to place. This con-
tinued till ten o'clock, when the queen departed
home.

Great hospitality was exercised in the palace at
Greenwich, which no stranger who had ostensible
business there, from the noble to the peasant, ever
visited, it is said, without being invited to either
one table or the other, according to his degree.
No wonder that Elizabeth was a popular sovereign,
and her days were called "golden;" for the way to
an Englishman's heart is a good dinner.

The royal park was the scene of a good story,
thus told by Miss Agnes Strickland : — " One of
her majesty's purveyors having been guilty of some
abuses in the county of Kent, on her removal
to Greenwich, a sturdy countryman, watching the
time when she took her morning walk with the
lords and ladies of her household, placed himself
conveniently for catching the royal e}e and ear,
and when he saw her attention perfectly disengaged,
began to cry, in a loud voice, ' Which is the
queen ? ' Whereupon, as her manner was, she
turned herself towards him, but he continuing his
clamorous question, she herself answered, ' I am
your queen; what wouldst thou have with me?'
' You,' rejoined the farmer, archly gazing upon her
with a look of incredulity, not unmixed with admi-
ration— 'you are one of the rarest women I ever
saw, and can eat no more than my daughter Madge,
who is thought the properest lass in our parish,
though short of you ; but that Queen Elizabeth I
look for devours so many of my hens, ducks, and
capons, that I am not able to live.' The queen,
who was exceedingly indulgent to all suits, off"ered
through the medium of a compliment, took this

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

^Greenwich.

liomely admonition in good part, inquired the pur-
veyor's name, and finding that he had acted with
great dishonesty and injustice, caused condign
punishment to be inflicted upon him ; " indeed, our
author adds that " she ordered him to be hanged,
his offence being in violation of a statute-law
against such abuses."

Holinshed relates in his " Chronicle," that in
1562, at the reception of the Danish ambassadors
here, there was a bull-bait, at the end of which the
people were delighted with the sight of a horse
with an ape on his back — a sight which, no doubt,
gave birth to the sign named among those of
London two centuries ago, in the Spectator* the
"Jackanapes on Horseback."

The old annalists make constant mention of other
proceedings of Elizabeth at Greenwich. One in-
teresting ceremony which has been described was
that enacted on Maundy Thursday, on March 19,
1572. The Court being then located here, the
queen, according to ancient custom, washed the
feet of the poor on that festival, in remembrance
of our Saviour washing the feet of the apostles.
" Elizabeth will scarcely be blamed in modem
times," writes Agnes Strickland, " because she
performed the office daintily. The palace hall,"
she continues, " was prepared with a long table on
each side, with benches, carpets, and cushions,
and a cross-table at the upper end, where the
chaplain stood. Thirty-nine poor women, being
the same number as the years of her Majesty's age
at that time, entered, and were seated on the
forms ; then the yeoman of the laundry, armed
with a fair towel, took a silver basin filled with
warm water and sweet flowers, and washed all
their feet, one after the other ; he likewise made a
cross a little above the toes, and kissed each foot
after drying it; the sub-almoner performed the
same ceremony, and the queen's almoner also.
Then her Majesty entered the hall, and went to a
priedieu and cushion, placed in the space between
the two tables, and remained during prayers and
singing, and while the gospel was read, how Christ
washed His apostles feet. Then came in a pro-
cession of thirty-nine of tlie queen's maids of
honour and gentlewomen, each carrying a silver
basin witli warm water, spring flowers, and sweet
herbs, liaving aprons and towels withal. Then
her Majesty, kneeling down on the cushion ])laced
for the purpose, proceeded to wash, in turn, one of
the feet of each of the poor women, and wiped
them with the assistance of the fair bason-bearers ;
moreover, she crossed and kissed them, as the

" Sec S/eclalor, No. 38, April a, 1711.

Others had done. Then, beginning with the first,
she gave each a sufficient broad cloth for a gown,
and a pair of shoes, a wooden platter, wherein was
half a side of salmon, as much ling, si.\ red her-
rings, two manchetts, and a mazer, or wooden cup,
full of claret. All these things she gave separately.
Then each of her ladies delivered to her Majesty
the towel and the apron used in the ablution, and
she gave each of the poor women one a-piece.
This was the conclusion of the ladies' official duty
of the maundy. The treasurer of the royal chamber,
Mr. Heneage, brought her Majesty thirty-nine smali
white leather purses, each with thirty-nine pence,
which she gave separately to every poor woman.
Mr. Heneage then supplied her with thirty-nine red
purses, each containing twenty shillings ; this she
distributed to redeem the gown she wore, which
by ancient custom was given to one chosen among
the number." Our readers will remember that part,
but part only, of the same ceremony is still annually
performed by some representative of the sovereign
on each Maundy Thursday, at Whitehall, t

In Hentzner's " Itinerarium " (" A Journey into
England "), written at the close of the sixteenth
century, will be found a graphic account of the
court of Queen Elizabeth, at Greenwich Palace,
in the latter years of her reign. The writer tells
us how he was admitted to the Presence Chamber,
which he found hung with rich tapestry, and the
floor, " after the English fashion, strewed with
hay " [rushes]. It was a Sunday, when the at-
tendance of visitors was greatest ; and there were
waiting in the hall the Archbishop of Canterbury,
the Bishop of London, a great number of councillors
of state, officers of the court, foreign ministers,
noblemen, gentlemen, and ladies. At the door
stood a gentleman dressed in velvet, with a gold
chain, ready to introduce to the queen any person
of distinction ^\-ho came to wait upon her. The
queen passed through the hall on her way to
prayers, j^receded in regular order by gentlemen,
barons, earls, knights of the Garter, all richly
dressed ami bareheaded. Immediately before the
queen came the Lord Chancellor, with the seals in
a red silk purse, between two officers bearing the
royal sceptre and the sword of state. The queen
wore a dress of wliite silk, bordered witli i)earls
of the size of beans, her train borne by a
marchioness. As she turned on either side, all
fell on their knees. Siie " spoke graciously first to
one, then to another, whether foreign ministers, or
those who attended for different reasons, in English,
French, and Italian." The ladies of the courts

t SeeVoLUL, (I.363.

Greenwiclu]

THE "HOUSE OF DELIGHT."

173

" very handsome and well-shaped, and for the
most part dressed in white, followed next to her,
and fifty gentlemen pensioners, with gilt battle-axes,
formed her guard." In the ante-diamber, next
the hall, she received petitions most graciously ;
and to the acclamation, " Long live Queen
Elizabeth ! " she answered, " I thank you, my good
people." After the service in the chapel, which
lasted only half an hour, the queen returned in
the same state as she had entered. The table had
been set " with great solemnity" in the banqueting-
room, but the queen dined in her inner and private
chamber. "The queen dines and sups alone, with
very few attendants ; and it is very seldom that
anybody, foreign or native, is admitted at that time,
and then only at the intercession of somebody in
power." The German traveller is particular in
describing with exact minuteness the personal
appearance of the queen, who was then in her
sixty-fifth year, and "very majestic:" "her face,"
he says, " was oblong, fair but wrinkled ; her eyes
small, yet black and pleasant ; her nose a little
hooked ; her lips narrow, and her teeth black (a
defect the English seem subject to, from their too
great use of sugar). She had in her ears two
pearls with very rich drops ; she wore false hair,
and that red. Upon her head she had a small
crown. Her bosom was uncovered, as all the
English ladies have it till they marry ; and she had
a necklace of exceeding fine jewels." We may
add here that in Walpole's " Catalogue of Royal
and Noble Authors " there is a curious head of
Queen Elizabeth when old and haggard, done with
great exactness from a coin, the die of which was
broken. A striking feature in the queen's face
was her high nose, which is not justly represented
in many pictures and prints of her. She was
notoriously vain of her personal charms, and,
affirming that shadows were unnatural in painting,
she ordered one artist, Isaac Oliver, to paint her
without any. There are three engravings of her
Majesty after this artist, two by Vertue, and one, a
whole length, by Crispin de Pass, who published
portraits of illustrious personages of this kingdom
during the sixteenth century.

Greenwich Palace was, as we have just seen,
much mixed up with the domestic life of Queen
Elizabeth ; but it was not all sunshine with her, as
the following episode, told by Miss Agnes Strick-
land, will show : — " The terror of the plague was
always uppermost in the minds of all persons in
the sixteenth century, at every instance of sudden
death. One day, in November, 1573, Queen
Elizabeth was conversing with her ladies in her
privy chamber, at Greenwich Palace, when, on a

sudden, the ' mother of the maids ' was seized
with illness, and expired directly in her presence.
Queen Elizabeth was so much alarmed at this
circumstance, that in less than an hour she left
her palace at Greenwich, and went to \V'estminster,
where she remained."

On the return of Sir ^Valter Raleigh to England,
with a high reputation for courage and discretion,
after successfully quelling the disturbances of the
Desmonds, in Munster, he was introduced to Queen
Elizabeth at Greenwich Palace, and soon obtained
a prominent position in the Court. His advance-
ment is said to have been greatly promoted by
an almost fantastic display of gallantry, which he
made on one occasion before the queen. He was,
it is stated by some historians, "attending her
Majesty in a walk, when she came to a place where
her progress was obstructed by a mire. Without a
moment's hesitation he took off his rich plush
cloak, and spread it on the ground for her foot-
cloth. She was highly pleased with this practical
flattery, and it was afterwards remarked that this
sacrifice of a cloak gained him many a good suit."
The grounds of Saye's Court have been fixed upon
by some writers as the scene of this little episode ;
others, however, state that Raleigh placed his
cloak on the landing-stage opposite the palace at
Greenwich on one occasion when her Majesty
alighted from her barge, the customary floor-cloth
having by some oversight been forgotten.

The antiquarian reader will not have forgotten
the fact that ladies, when as yet coaches had not
been invented and introduced into England, were
accustomed to make their journeys on horseback,
seated on pillions behind some relative or serving-
man. In this way Queen Elizabeth, when she
went up to London from her palace at Greenwich,
used to seat herself behind her Lord Chancellor or
Chamberlain.

In 1605 James I. settled Greenwich Pal.ice and
Park on his queen, Anne of Denmark, who forth-
with rebuilt with brick the garden front of the
palace, and laid the foundation of a building near
the park, called the " House of Delight," in which
the governor of Greenwich Hospital afterwards
resided, and which now forms the central building
of the Royal Naval Schools. In the following
year the Princess Mary, daughter of James I., vv'as
christened at Greenwich with great solemnity.

Charles I. resided much at Greenwich previous
to the breaking out of the civil war ; and Henrietta
Maria so "finished and furnished" the house which
Anne of Denmark had begun, that, as Philipott,
the Kentish historian, wrote, " it far surpassed!
all other houses of the kind in England." Inigo

174

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

Jones was employed as the architect to superintend
the work carried on in the building, and it was
completed in 1635. Rubens was frequently in
attendance on the Court of Charles at Greenwich ;
and it is stated that Queen Henrietta was anxious
to form a cabinet of pictures here, and to have the
ceilings and walls of her oratory and other rooms
painted by Jordaens or Rubens, and that negotia-
tions were entered into with those painters for the

and in the distance we see the parish church, and
the shipping on the river. The palace, by the
river-side, appears as an irregular Gothic structure
with two towers. In the middle distance stands a
more modern mansion, apparently in the middle of
a corn-field, .-^s already mentioned by us,* over
the buttery there formerly stood two rude wooden
figures, known as "Beer" and "Gin;" they are
now in the Tower of London.

OLD PALACE OF GREE.NWICil, IN 163O.

purpose, but pecuniary or political difficulties inter-
vened. Most of the ceilings in the palace were
subsequently painted for Charles L by Gentileschi.
Some idea of the general external appearance of
the jjalace at this time may be obtainctl from what
is called " The Long View of Greenwich," printed
in 1637 ; it is to be seen among the etchings of
Hollar, in a few choice collections. It was origin-
ally dedicated to Queen Henrietta Maria ; and it
is said that Hollar worked this plate for a publisher
for thirty shillings ! The latter, finding the queen's
unpopularity to interfere with the sale of the plate,
induced Hollar to erase the dedication, and to sub-
stitute in its place a copy of verses which are found
in some impressions. In the foreground is the
observatory hill and park, with ladies jiromenading,

King Charles left Greenwich palace with the fatal
resolution of taking his journey northward, and
the turbulent state of the times prevented him
from again visiting it. In the night of tlie 3rd of
November, 1642, three companies of foot and a
troop of horse were sent by the Parliament to
search the town and palace of Greenwich for con-
cealed arms ; but, says Lysons, " they found only a
few two-handed swords without scabbards." On
the king's death, in 1648, the palace passed out of
the royal keeping. In 1652, the Commonwealth
rc(iuiring funds for their navy, the House of Com-
mons resolvctl "that (Ireenwich House, park, and
lands should be immediately sold for ready money."

• See Vol. II., p. 87.

Greenwich.]

THE OLD PALACE.

175

8.

ilji,

ii!M

illiia!!^;-

! Ill I <:
1:11 A If

I;:.

176

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

! Greenwich.

A survey and valuation of them was ordered to be
made, just as had been done in the case of Hyde
Park,* and finally an ordinance was passed for
carrying the sale into execution. Particulars were
accordingly made out of the " Hoby stables " and
other smaller premises belonging to the palace,
which were sold, but no further proceedings as to
the rest of the estate were taken at this time.
John Evelyn, in his " Diary," under date of April
29, 1652, writes: "We went this afternoone to see
the Queene's House at Greenwich, now given by
the rebells to Bulstrode AVhitlock, one of their
unhapjjy counsellors and keepers of pretended
liberties." In 1654, when the Crown lands were
sold, Greenwich was reserved, and eventually it was
appropriated to the Lord Protector as a residence.
On the restoration of Charles H., in 1660, it re-
verted to the Crown, with the other royal demesnes.
The king, finding the old palace greatly decayed
by time, and the want of necessary repairs during
the Commonwealth, ordered it to be taken down,
and a new palace was commenced in its place.
One wing of this new palace was completed at a
cost of ;^36,ooo, and now forms, with additions,
the west wing of the present edifice. Sir John
Denham, the poet, was at that time the royal sur-
veyor, or official architect ; but as he knew little
of building practically, he employed AVebb, the
son-in-law of Inigo Jones, from whose papers his
designs are said to have been made. Evelyn
evidently did not think much of Sir John's quali-
fications as an architect, for he writes in his
"Diary," under date of October 19, 1661 : "I
went to London to visite my Lord of Bristoll,
ha\'ing first been (sic) with Sir John Denham (his
Majesty's surveyor), to consult with him about the
placing of his palace at Greenwhich, which I would
have had built between the river and the Queenes
house, so as a large square cutt should have let in
the Thames hke a bay; but Sir John was for
setting it on piles at the very brink of the water,
which I did not assent to, and so came away,
knowing Sir John to be a better poet than archi-
tect."

" His Majesty," writes Evelyn, under date of
January 24, 1662, "entertained me with his inten-
tions of building his Palace of Greenwich, and quite
demolishing the old one ; on which I declared my
thoughts." What his "thoughts" were, he does
not tell us ; but probably they were in accordance
with those of his brother " diarist," Samuel Pepys,

• SceVoI. IV., p. 380.

who, on March 4th, 1663-4, writes : '-At Green-
wich I observed the foundation laying of a very
great house for the king, which will cost a great
deal of money." On the 26th of July of the follow-
ing year, Pepys writes : " To Greenwich, where I
heard the king and duke are come by water this
morn from Hampton Court. They asked me
several questions. The king mightily pleased with
his new buildings there." A few years later — viz.,
in March, 1669 — Pepys, after recording a visit paid
to him by " Mr. Evelyn, of Deptford, a worthy
good man," and his own visit subsequently to
Woolwich, goes on to tell us how that he returned
" thence to Greenwich by water, and there landed
at the king's house, which goes on slow, but is very
pretty."

The widowed Queen of Charles I., Henrietti
Maria, spent several months at Greenwich after tlie
restoration of her son ; bonfires were lit to greet
her on her arrival here. She continued to kfep
her Court in England till July, 1665, when she
finally embarked for France. She died at Colombe,
near Paris, in 1669; and her son, James II., says
of her that " she excelled in all the good qualifies of
a good wife, a good mother, and a good Christian."

Notwithstanding the apparent eagerness of King
Charles II., at first, for the construction of the
palace and the improvements of the groands, he
seems to have given up the idea of continuing the
work after the completion of the wing mentioned
above, and nothing further was done to the build-
ing either by him or his successor to the crown.
As William III. divided his time between Ken-
sington and Hampton Court, Greenwich was no
longer thought of as a royal residence ; but Queen
Mary conceived even a nobler use for the then
unfinished building. Charles II. had, in 1682,
laid the foundation of the hospital at Chelsea for
disabled soldiers ; but this was only completed by
William and Mary in 1690. Mary, we are told,
thought there should be a similar hospital for dis-
abled seamen. "Amid tlie rejoicings called forth
by the great victory of La Hoguc, in May, 1692,
the feelings of the queen were harrowed by the
large number of maimed and wounded soldiers
landed at our naval ports. AVilliam was in
Holland, and Mary, as his vicegerent, after making
every possible jirovision for the wounded, now
publicly declared in her husband's name that the
building conmienced by Charles should be com-
pleted, and should be a retreat for seamen disabled
in the service of their country." As such we shall
deal with it in the following chapter.

Greenwich.]

THE FOUNDATION OF THE HOSPITAL.

177

CHAPTER XIV.

GREENWICH (cvniiiiueJ).— THE HOSPITAL FOR SEAMEN, &c.

I

" Go, with old Thames, view Chelsea's glorious pile,
And ask the shattered hero whence his smile ?
Go view the splendid domes of Greenwich — go,
And own what raptures from reflection flow."

S. J^c^j^jrst ^' Fh-asiires of Mciiiory."

Greenwich Hospital as a Monument to Queen Mary, and of the Victory of La Hogue — Appointment of the Commissioners by William Til. — Sir
Christopher Wren's Share in the Building — John Evelyn as Treasurer — Description of the Building — Memorials of Joseph Rene Bellot, and
the Uflicers who fell in the Indian Mutiny — The Chapel — The Painted Hall — Nelson's Funeral Car — "I'he Nelson Room — The Hospital —
Sources of its Revenue — The Old Pensioners and their Accommodation— The Royal Naval College— The Naval Museum— The Nelson and
other Relics— The Infirmary for the Pensioners — The Seamsn's Hospital— The Breadnoushi—lhc Royal Naval School — Officers connected
with Greenwich Hospital since its establishment — Fund for Disabled Seamen.

The reader will not have forgotten the account
which Macaulay gives of the causes which led to
the foundation of Greenwich Hospital, immediately
after the death of Queen Mary, the Consort of
William III. " The affection with which her
husband cherished her memory," he writes, "was
soon attested by a monument, the most superb
that was ever erected to any sovereign. No
scheme had been so much her own, none had
been so near her Iieart, as that of converting the
palace into a retreat for seamen. It had occurred
to her when she had found it difficult to provide
good shelter and good attendance for the thousands
of brave men who had come back to England
wounded after the battle of La Hogue. Whilst
she lived, scarcely any step was taken towards the
accomplishment of her favourite design ; but it
should seem that, as soon as her husband had lost
her, he began to reproach himself for having
neglected her wishes. No time was now lost. A
plan was furnished by Wren, and soon an edifice,
surpassing that asylum which the magnificent Louis
had provided for his soldiers, rose on the margin of
the Thames. Whoever reads the inscription which
runs round the frieze of the hall will observe that
King William claims no part of the merit of the
design, and that the praise is ascribed to Mary
alone. Had the king's life been prolonged, a
statue of her who was the real foundress of the
institution would have had a conspicuous place, in
that court which presents two lofty domes and two
graceful colonnades to the multitudes who are per-
petually passing up and down the imperial river.
But that part of the plan was never carried into
effect ; a few of those who now gaze on the noblest
of European hospitals are aware that it is a memo-
rial of the virtues of the good Queen Mary, of the
love and sorrow of William, and of the great victory
of La Hogue."

This magnificent structure, which is considered
the finest specimen of classical architecture in this

or almost any other country, occupies the site of
the old royal palace, on the southern bank of the
Thames, between that river and Greenwich Park.
It was established, as before stated, in the reign
of William and Mary, who, "for the encourage-
ment of seamen and the improvement of naviga-
tion," by their letters patent, dated October 25th,
1694, granted to Sir John Somers, Knight, Keeper
of the Great Seal ; Thomas, Duke of Leeds ;
Thomas, Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery;
Charles, Duke of Shrewsbury ; Sidney, Lord
Godolphin ; and others — " all that piece or parcell
of ground situate, lying, and being within the
Parish of East Greenwich, and being parcell or
reputed parcell of our Manner of East Greenwich
aforesaid, containing in the whole, by admeasure-
ment, eight acres, two roods, and thirty-two square
perches ; and all that capital messuage lately built,
or in building, by our royall uncle. King Charles II.,
and still remaining unfinished, commonly called by
the name of our Palace at Greenwich, sta"nding
upon the piece or parcell of ground aforesaid ; and
those edifices and tofts called the chapel and
vestry there ; " and other tenements, to erect and
found a hospital " for the reliefe and support of
seamen serving on board the shipps or vessells
belonging to the Navy Royall of us, our heires, or
successors; or imploy'd in our or their service a',
sea ; who, by reason of age, wounds, or other dis-
abilities, shall be incapable of further service at sea,
and be unable to maintain themselves ; and also
for the sustentation of the widows, and maintenance
and education of the children of seamen happen-
ing to be slaine or disabled in such sea service.''
Queen Mary, who, as we have shown, was the first
projector of this charitable institution, died on the
2Sth of December, 1694, two months after the grant
was made for carrying her wishes into effect.

In March of the following year, the king ap-
pointed nearly two hundred commissioners ; in-
cluding George, Prince of Denmark; the principal

178

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

Officers of State ; the Archbishops, Bishops, Judges,
the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of London; and
the JVIasters, Wardens, &c., of the Trinity House.
John Evelyn gives us, in his " Diary," an accurate
account of the successive steps taken by himself
and his brother commissioners in establishing the
hospital, of which he was appointed treasurer.
The first meeting of the commissioners was held
at the Guildhall, May 5th, 1695, the Archbishop
of Canterbury, Lord Godolphin, the Duke of
Shrewsbury, and Sir Christopher Wren, and others
being present. In the course of that month several
other meetings were held, at which Evelyn, Wren,
and two other commissioners, having gone to
Greenwich to survey the place, made a report to
the effect that "the standing part (of the palace)
might be made serviceable at present for _;^6,ooo,"
and what extent of ground would be requisite in
order to complete the design. The draft of the
hospital was settled in the following April, and
the first stone of the new edifice laid on the 30th
of June, by Evelyn himself, supported by Wren
and Flamsteed, "the king's astronomical professor."
Evelyn records even the exact hour at which the
ceremony took place : " Precisely at five o'clock
in the evening, after we had dined together ; Mr.
Flamsteed observing the punctual time by instru-
ments." Evelyn's salary, as treasurer, was ^200,
much of the work being done by his son-in-law
Draper, as his deputy, though the works as they
])rogressed kept him at Saye's Court, away from his
beloved V/otton, during the entire summer. Draper,
we may add, succeeded Evelyn in the treasurer-
ship. The subscriptions received during the first
twelve months towards the hospital amounted, ac-
cording to Evelyn, to upwards of ;^9,ooo, including
;^2,ooo from the king, and ^500 apiece from
nearly all the leading statesmen. According to a
note by the treasurer, four months after the
foundation, the work done amounted to upwards
of ^5, 000, towards which the treasurer had re-
ceived only ;^8oo, there being among the defaulters
the king's ^^2,000, paid by exchequer tallies on
the Post Office, "which," says he, "nobody will
take at 30 per cent, discount," a statement
which, if true, does not redound to King Charles's
credit. Part of the expense of the erection of the
structure was raised by state lotteries. Evelyn
writes, in liis " Diary " for May, 1699 : " All lotteries,
till now cheating the people, to be no longer per-
mitted than to Christmas, except tliat for tlie
benefit of Greenwich Hospital." From an entry
which lie makes in his "Diary" in January, 1705,
it appears that the building was so far advanced
that the committee had already admitted some

pensioners : " I went to Greenwich Hospital, where
they now begin to take in wounded and worn-out
seamen, who are exceedingly well provided for."
He adds, /nore sua, " The buildings now going on
are very magnificent." In a note in Evelyn's
" Diary " is publislied his debtor and creditor ac-
count for the erection of the hospital. The total
of subscriptions, &c., seems to have been ;^69,32o,
exclusive of the produce of lottery tickets, ^^^i 1,434,
and malt tickets, ;^ 1,000 ; but the exact meaning
of this last item is not very clear.

The hospital is elevated on a terrace upwards
of 280 yards in length, and in its completed form
consists of four distinct blocks of building. The
two blocks nearest the river, known respectively as
King Charles's and Queen Anne's Buildings, stand
on either side of the "Great Square," 570 feet
in width. The two blocks south of them. King
William's and Queen Mary's Buildings, are brought
nearer to each other by the width of the colon-
nades ; and the cupolas at the inner angles form a
fine central feature, and impart unity to the general
composition. The view from the north gate, in the
centre of the terrace, is very striking. Beyond the
square are seen the hall and chapel, with their
finely-proportioned cupolas and gilt vanes, and the
two colonnades, which form a kind of avenue ter-
minated by the Royal Naval School, above which,
on an eminence in the park, appears the Royal
Observatory.

In the centre of the great square is a statue of
George HI. It was the gift of Admiral Sir John
Jennings, who was governor of the Jiospital
in the reign of that king. It was sculptured by
Rysbrach, out of a single block of white marble,
which weighed eleven tons, and had been captured
from the French by Sir George Rooke.

At each extremity of the terrace in front of the
hospital is a small pavilion ; their use, however, is
not very apparent, they \vere erected in 1778, and
named respectively after Kihg George III. and
Queen Charlotte, but it is not on record that their
majesties ever used them for tea-parties or other
purposes. On the terrace, in front of the gates, is
a granite obelisk, erected as " a memorial of the
gallant young Frenchman, Joseph Ren(f Bellot,
who perished in IJie searcli for Sir John Franklin,
August, 1853." In the north-west corner of the
grounds, in front of the "Ship" hotel, is another
obelisk, put up in memory of several officers wlio
fell (luring the Indian Mutiny.

King Charles's Building is on the west side of
the great .square. The eastern jjortion formed the
unfinished palace of Charles II. ; it is built about
an inner quadrangle, and is constructed of Portland

Greenwich.]

THE PAINTED HALL.

179

stone. In the centre is a portico of the Corinthian
order, crowned with an entablature and pediment ;
and in the pediment is a piece of sculpture, consist-
ing of two figures, one representing Fortitude, and
the other the Dominion of the Sea. At each end
is a pavilion formed by four pilasters of the Corin-
thian order, and surmounted by an attic. Tlie
four fronts of this block of buildings nearly corre-
spond with each other. In the pediment on the
eastern side is a piece of sculpture representing
Mars and. Fame. Some part of this block having
become very much decayed, it was rebuilt in 1S14.
Richardson, in his " History of Greenwich," states
that Admiral George Byng was " confined in that
quarter of Greenwich Hospital known as King
Charles's Building, in the year 1756, previous to
his execution at Portsmouth in 1757." He also
adds, " The individual to whom the author is in-
debted for his information waited on the admiral
in the capacity of servant to the Marshal of the
Admiralty, in whose custody the admiral then was,
and, accompanying his master and the prisoner to
Portsmouth, it eventually fell to his lot to place
the cushion for the admiral to kneel upon when
he was shot."

Queen Anne's Building, the corresponding block
facing the river, was commenced in 1698, and
was so named on the accession of Anne to the
throne. It resembles King Charles's Building,
except that the pediments are without sculpture.
This building now serves as the Naval Museum, of
which we shall have more to say presently.-

To the south of Queen Anne's Building is
another block, named after Queen Mary, the north
side of which forms the chapel. The lofty cupola
at the western extremity of the chapel serves as
the vestibule, in which are statues of Faith, Hope,
Meekness, and Charity, from designs by Benjamin
West. From this vestibule a flight of steps leads
into the chapel, through folding doors of mahogany,
highly enriched and carved. The original chapel
being destroyed by fire in January, 1779, the
present structure was erected in its place, from the
designs of James Stuart ("Athenian Stuart"), and
was opened for .service in 1789. The chapel
is upwards of 100 feet long, and more than 50 feet
wide. The nave, and space round the communion-
table and organ-gallery, is paved with black and
white marble, and in the centre of the nave is the
representation of an anchor and a seaman's com-
pass. The ceiling is divided into compartments,
ornamented with foliage and other designs in the
antique style. The whole interior of the chapel is
richly decorated witli coloured marbles, scagHola,
and fancy woods, sculpture, carving, and jjahiting.

Entrance to the chapel is gained . through an
elaborately-sculptured marble screen with a frieze,
by Bacon ; and at each end of the chapel are four
marble columns of the Corinthian order, support-
ing the roof. In recesses above the gallery door,
&c., are figures of prophets and evangelists, by
Benjamin West ; whilst over the communion-table
is a large painting, also by West, representing the
" Preservation of St. Paul from Shipwreck on the
Island of Melita."

King William's Building, at the south-west side,
like the corresponding block, has massive Doric
columns, and comprises the great, or Painted Hall,
the dining-hall of the original institution, with its
vestibule and cupola. This part of the hospital
was so far completed by the commencement of the
year 1705, as to be capable of receiving forty-two
seamen. Three years later there were 300 pen-
sioners within the walls. The colonnades to King
William's and Queen Mary's Buildings are each
347 feet long, with returns of seventy feet. Each
contains 300 coupled Doric columns twenty feet
high.

That portion of the structure of which Evelyn
laid the foundation was completed in two years,
the architect being Sir Christopher Wren, who,
it is said, generously undertook the work of that
post without any emolument, his labours being
equivalent to a large subscription. In 1698, Sir
Christopher Wren submitted to the committee a
plan for a large dining-hall (now the Painted Hall),
which being approved of by them, the necessary
portion of ground was immediately laid out, and
the work prosecuted with such diligence, that the
whole was roofed in and the dome erected by
August, 1703, forming what is now called "King
William's Building." The hall, originally intended
as the hospital refectory, now serves as the gallery
of naval pictures. It is upwards of 100 feet in
length, by fifty feet in width, and about the same
in height. It is sufficiently well lighted for the
purpose for which it was originally designed, but
hardly so for a picture-gallery. It is entered by a
noble vestibule, open to one of the lofty cupolas,
from which it receives a very dim and shadowy
light. A short flight of steps leads up into the hall,
the ceiling of which at once rivets the attention of
the visitor. This was painted by Sir James Thorn-
hill, and is divided into compartments. Its praises
were first sounded by Sir Richard Steele, who,
in his play of The Lover, has given an admirable
description of it. In the central compartment
appear King William and Queen Mary, surrounded
by allegorical personages, intended to typify national
prosperity, and the compartments are filled with

i8o

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich,

figures representing the Seasons, the Elements, the
Zodiac, with [jortraits of Copernicus, Newton, &c. ;
emblems of science and naval trophies. Every
one remembers the marvellous story of Sir James
Thornhiil stepping back to see the effect of his
painting upon the ceiling, and being prevented
from falling to the floor by some person defacing
a portion of his work, thus causing the painter to
rush forward and save himself from death.

number of its inmates, the space proved inadequate
to their accommodation ; the table of the officers
was discontinued, and other dining-halls for the
men were provided on the basement storey. The
noble apartment had been thus unoccupied nearly
a century, when, in 1794, the Lieutenant-Governor,
Mr. Locker, suggested its appropriation to the
service of a National Gallery of Marine Paintings,
to commemorate the eminent services of the Royal

GREENWICH HOSPITAL, FROM THE RIVER.

The ])ainting of this hall occupied Sir James
Thornhiil nineteen years, from 1708 to 1727 ; and
he was paid at the rate of ;£^ a square yard for
the ceiling, and ;£i a yard for the walls. On the
latter are fluted Corinthian pilasters, trophies, &c.
Beyond the great hall is a raised apartment, called
the " upper hall.''

The great hall, as we have said, was at first
intended to be used as the common refectory of the
institution, the upper chamber being appropriated
to the table of the officers, and the lower to those of
the pensioners. But wlieii tlie growing revenue of
the Hospital gradually led to an increase of the

Navy of England. Tliis tasteful design was no';
then executed; but in 1823 it was again pro-
posed by Governor Locker's son, who, with tlic
consent of the then commissioners and governor,
began the collection of the various paintings. The
plan was warmly patronised by George IV., whc
promptly and liberally gave directions that the
extensive and valuable series of portraits of the
celebrated admirals of the reigns of Charles IL
and William IIL at Windsor Castle and Hampton
Court should be transferred hither ; and the king
subsequently presented several other valuable and
appropriate paintings from his private collection at

Greenwich 1

THE PAINTED HALL.

i8i

St. James's Palace and Carlton House. Thus was
formed the nucleus of " The Naval Gallery." The
example thus set by royalty was promptly fol-
lowed by gifts of pictures from many noble and
other liberal benefactors ; and thus, in the course
of a few years, the walls of the Painted Hall were

naval heroes who have arisen in our isle since we
became " super-eminent as a sea-faring and a
sea-conquering people," beginning with Raleigh,
Willoughby, Hawkins, and Drake, there are here
large numbers of naval pictures of great interest,
such as the Defeat of tlie Spanish Armada, the

THE PAINTED HALL, GREENWICH HOSPITAL.

adorned with portraits of our celebrated naval
commanders, and representations of their actions.
To these, five other valuable pictures were added
by King William IV., in the year 1835. The
collection removed hither from Hampton Court
included Sir Godfrey Kneller's series of portraits
known as "Queen Anne's Admirals," a series
of som.e little value to the student of costume,
as showing all the modifications of the flowing
wig which marked the era of the later Stuarts.
Besides the portraits of most of the celebrated
256

Batde of Barfleur, Duncan's Victory at Camper-
down, Nelson's Victory of the Nile, the Batde of
Trafalgar, &c. The " upper hall " is painted in a
style to correspond with the great hall, but here
the walls, as well as the ceiling, are covered. The
ceiling exhibits Queen Anne and her consort.
Prince George of Denmark ; other figures personify
the four quarters of the globe ; and on the walls
below are represented, on one side, the landing
of William III. at Torbay in 1688, on the other
the arrival of George I. at Greenwich. The central

l82

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

wall, facing the entrance, presents a group of por-
traits of King George L and two generations of
his family. The dome of St. Paul's, then newly
erected, appears in the background, amidst a cloud
of tutelary virtues ; and in front is to be seen Sir
James Thornhill, the painter. The models of old
men-of-war, the Franklin relics, and other objects
formerly exhibited here, are now removed to the
Naval Museum, which we shall presently notice.
One object, however, which was formerly shown
here, has altogether disappeared. This was the
funeral car in which the body of Nelson was con-
veyed, " with all the pomp befitting the gratitude
of a great nation to the illustrious dead," to St.
Paul's Cathedral. " Of all the pageantry that Green-
wich has witnessed since it became a town," writes
Charles Mackay, in his "Thames and its Tribu-
taries," " this was, if not the most magnificent,
the most grand and impressive. The body, after
lying in state for three days in the hospital, during
which it was visited by immense multitudes, was
conveyed, on the 8th of January, iSo6, up the river
to Whitehall, followed in procession by the City
Companies in their state barges. The flags of all
the vessels in the river were lowered lialfmast
high, in token of mourning, and solemn minute-
guns were fired during the whole time of the
procession. The body lay all that night at the
Admiralty, and on the following morning was
removed on a magnificent car, sumiounted by
plumes of feathers and decorated with heraldic
insignia, to its final resting-place in St. Paul's
Cathedral. From the Admiralty to St. Paul's the
streets were all lined with the military. The
procession was headed by detachments of the
Dragoon Guards, the Scots Greys, and the 92nd
Highlanders, with the Duke of York and his staff,
the band playing that sublime funeral strain, the
' Dead March in Saul.' Then followed the pen-
sioners of Greenwich Hospital and the seamen of
Lord Nelson's ship, the Victory, a deputation from
the Common Council of London, and a long
train of mourning coaches, including those of the
royal family, the chief officers of state, and all
the principal nobility of the kingdom. When the
coffin, covered with the flag of the Victory, was
about to be lowered into the grave, an affecting
incident occurred: the attendant sailors who had
borne the pall rushed forward, and sei/.ing upon
the flag, before a \-oice could be raised to prevent
them, rent it into shreds, in the intensity of their
feelings, that each might preserve a shred as a
memento of the departed." The car and its
trappings gradually decayed, and becoming worm-
eaten and past repair, were broken up.

A small apartment adjoining the upper hall,
called the Nelson Room, contains an admirable
portrait of Nelson, painted by Abbot, and also
some half-dozen pictures illustrative of events in
the great admiral's life, together with Benjamin
West's strange admixture of realism and allegory,
called the Apotheosis of Nelson.

" When we consider the entire dependence of
every great work of this class on the caprice of
successive rulers," writes the author of " Bohn's
Pictorial Handbook of London," " we shall think
it much more remarkable that every royal family,
except that of England, should have been able to
begin and finish a palace (and in some cases more
than one), than that English sovereigns should have
not yet achieved such a work. Greenwich is the
attempt that most nearly reached realisation ; and,
as when it is seen from the river the patchwork is
mostly out of sight, the group becomes the most
complete architectural scene we possess. The two
northern masses of building are from a design of
Jones ; though the first was not erected till after his
death, by his pupil and son-in-law Webb ; and the
other not till Queen Anne's reign, after whom it
is named. The older (or King Charles's) building
was partly rebuilt in 1811-14, and distinguished
by sculpture of artificial stone in the pediment.
The southern masses are chiefly from a design of
Sir Christopher Wren, and were commenced by
William and Mary, whose names they bear ; but
their construction proceeding slowly, successive
periods have left the melancholy marks of steadily
declining taste and increasing parsimony ; that
which begins in Portland stone and Corinthian
splendour sinking at length into mean brickwork,
or unable to afford in inferior stone the most
ordinary degree of finish. The design of the brick
portions is in the most corrupt taste of Vanbrugh,
but whatever is visible from the centre of the
group is by Jones or Wren. The inferiority of
the latter is obvious in the comparative want of
repose, and greater crowding and flutter of small
and multi])lied parts. The two pyramidising masses
crowned by domes are finely placed, and quite
characteristic of his style, as is also the coupling of
columns in the colonnades. There is nothing so
majestic as either the inward or river elevations of
Jones's work, but more picturesqueness and variety.
The two not only show the distinction between the
tastes of these masters, but also exemplify, in some
measure, that between the Roman and Venetian
schools of modern architecture ; the norlhcrn
buildings having some resemblance to the former,
though, in general, both our great architects were
followers of the latter."

Greenwich.]

RESOURCES OF GREENWICH HOSPITAL.

183

Such, then, is the general appearance of Green-
wich Hospital, an edifice which, as stated in an
earlier chapter, was considered by Peter the Great
more fitted to be the abode of royalty than that
of worn-out seamen. Samuel Rogers, in his poem,
the " Pleasures of Memory, thus speaks of the in-
stitution :

" Hail ! noblest structure, imaged in the wave,
A nation's grateful tribute to the brave ;
Hail ! blest retreat from war and shipwreck, hail !
That oft arrest the wondering stranger's sail.
Long have ye heard the narratives of age.
The battle's liavoc, and the tempest's rage ;
Long have ye known Reflection's genial ray,
Gild the calm close of Valour's various day.
Time's sombrous touches soon correct the piece,
Mellow each tint, and bid each discord cease ;
A softer tone of light pervades the whole,
And steals a pensive languor o'er the soul."

blue clothes, a hat, three pairs of stockings, two
pairs of shoes, five neck-cloths, three shirts, and
two nightcaps.

According to Richardson's work on Greenwich,
quoted above, the funds, by means of which this
institution has been raised and maintained, were
derived from the following sources : — " The sum of
;^2,ooo per annum granted by the king in 1695,
and other subscriptions ; a duty of sixpence per
month from every mariner, granted by Act of
Parliament in 1696 ; the gift of some land by King
William in i6g8; the grant of ^19,500 in 1699,
being the amount of fines paid by various merchants
for smuggling ; ;^6oo, the produce of a lottery, ia
1699 ; the profits of the markets at Greenwich,
granted by Henry, Earl of Romney, in 1700; the
grant by the Crown, in 1701, of the ground where

OLD VIEW OF GREENWICH PALACE. (After Hollar^

The idea here shadowed forth may be a little
exaggerated, and " discord " may, perhaps, not
have wholly " ceased " within the walls of the
hospital to the extent pictured by the poet — at 1
all events, whilst the old pensioners occupied its j
apartments ; but still these lines give expression ;
to a truth which has been felt and acknowledged
by hundreds and thousands of visitors both before
and since they were penned. !

The hospital, as we have seen, was first opened
as an asylum in 1705, when forty-two disabled
seamen were admitted. In 1738 the number of
pensioners had increased to 1,000, which had
become doubled in the course of the next forty
years. The number was subsequently increased
to about 3,000, independently of about 32,000
out-pensioners. Each of the pensioners had a
weekly allowance of seven loaves, weighing i lb.
each, 3 lbs. of beef, 2 lbs. of mutton, a pint of pease,
\\ lb. of cheese, 2 oz. of butter, 14 qrts. of beer,
and one shilling a week tobacco money ; besides
which he received, once in two years, a suit of

the market was formerly kept, and some edifices
adjoining, in perpetuity; ;^6,472 is., the amount
of the effects of Kid, the pirate, given by Queen
Anne in 1705 ; the moiety (valued at ^20,000) of
an estate bequeathed by Robert Osbolston, Esq.,
in 1 707 ; and the profits of the unexpired lease of
the North and South Foreland Lighthouses (since
renewed for ninety-nine years to the hospital) ; a
grant of land in 1707 ; forfeited and unclaimed
shares of prize-money, granted by Act of Parliament
in 1708, and several subsequent acts; ^6,000 per
annum, granted by Queen Anne in 17 10, out of a
duty on coal, and continued for a long term by
George I. ; the wages of the chaplains of the
hospital, and the value of their provisions, &c., as
chaplains of Deptford and Woolwich Dockyards —
an increase of salary having been given them in
lieu thereof; the amount of the half-pay of all the
officers of the hospital — salaries being allowed in
lieu thereof; ;^'io,ooo, grant in 1728, and several
subsequent years, by Parliament ; the grant by tlie
king, in 1730, of a small piece of land, with the

i84

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

rG.cenwich-

crane, adjoining the river ; an estate given by Mr.
Clapham at Eltham, in 1730, consisting of several
houses and warehouses near London Bridge ; and
the forfeited estates of the Earl of Derwentwater,
given by Act of Parliament in 1735, deducting
an annual rent-charge of ^2,500 to the Earl of
Newburgh and his heirs male. Several contribu-
tions have also been made by private individuals,
among which may be noticed ;^io,ooo Three per
Cent. Consols, and ;^2,6oo, both anonymous bene-
factions ; ;^i,iio by Captain J. Turroyman; ^500
by Captain J. Matthews; and ^210, being part
of a sum subscribed at Lloyd's Coftee-house, on
account of an action fought October nth, 1797."

By Queen Anne's Commission, dated July 21st,
1703, there were appointed seven commissioners,
who were to form a general court ; the Lord High
Admiral, the Lord Treasurer, or any two privy
councillors, to form a quorum ; the governor and
treasurer were appointed by the Crown, and all
the other necessary officers by the Lord High
Admiral, on the recommendation of the general
court. The same commission appointed twenty-
five directors, called the "standing committee,"
who met once every fortnight, and vested the
internal government in the governor and a council
of officers who were appointed by the Lord High
Admiral. By a charter, granted by George HL,
the commissioners became a body corporate, with
full power to finish the building, to provide for
seamen either within or without the hospital, to
make bye-laws, &c. ; and this charter was followed
by an Act of Parliament, which vested in the
commissioners, thus incorporated, all the estates
held in trust for the benefit of the hospital. By
an Act passed in 1829, "for the better manage-
ment of the affairs of Greenwich Hospital," this
corporation of commissioners and governors was
dissolved, and five commissioners appointed in
their stead, and in them the estates and property
of the hospital — amounting, from the various
sources mentioned above, to nearly ;^i 70,000
annually — was vested. These commissioners were
generally members of Parliament who had served
in the inferior offices of the ministry, ex-lords of
the Treasury, Admiralty, &c. Complaints of great
want of economy in the employment of this large
revenue, the evidently increasing disinclination of
seamen to enter the hospital as inpatients, and a
doubt whether the institution was adapted to the
existing social condition of the class which it was
intended to benefit, led, ultimately, to a Com-
mission of Enquiry, on whose recommendation,
in 1865, an Act of Parliament was jiassed, by
which improved arrangements were made as to

the out-pensioners, and advantageous terms were
offered to such inmates of the hospital as were
vifilling to retire from it, with a view of closing it as
an almshouse.

Out of 1,400 in-pensioners then in the hospital,
nearly a thousand at once elected to leave. A
second act, passed in 1869, effected a final clear-
ance; and in the following year Greenwich Hospital
ceased to be an asylum for seamen, though the
last-mentioned act provides that in case of war
the building shall be at all times available for its
original purpose. On the departure of the old
veteran seamen, for whom this great work was
erected, Greenwich lost many of its distinctive and
most glorious associations. The change was a
severe one for many of the old men, and it is said
that more than half the number died within a very
short time of vacating their old quarters. It seems,
however, to have been the opinion of many who
knew the old pensioners and the present race of
" salts," that the new arrangement — by whicli they
receive their pensions in money, and live where
and as they please with their relatives or friends —
is better for them mentally as well as physically,
and is more acceptable to the present generation
of sailors.

It was a pleasing sight, on a fine day, to see the
old pensioners standing about in groups, or taking
a solitary walk in the courts of the Hospital, or
intent upon some newspaper, or perchance a book
of adventures by sea, which recalled to them the
experiences of early life. In the beautiful park
hard by they appeared to find much gratification
in rambling ; and many of them would establish
themselves on some green knoll, provided with a
telescope, the wonders of which they would exhibit
to strangers, and point out, with all the talkative-
ness of age, the remarkable objects wliich might
be seen on every side. The appearance of these
veterans — some without a leg or arm, others hob-
bling from the infirmities of wounds, or of years,
and all clothed in old-fashioned blue coats and
breeches, with cocked hats — would oddly contrast
with the splendour of the building which they
inhabited, did not the recollection that these
men were amongst the noblest defenders of their
country give a dignity to tlie objects which every-
where presented themselves, and make tlie crutch
of the veteran to harmonise with the grandeur of
the fabric in which lie found his final port after
the storms of a life of enterprise and danger.

The habitations of the pensioners were divided
into wards, each bearing a name which had bee;,,
or might be, appropriated to a ship. These wards
consisted of large and airy rooms, on either side of

Greenwich.!

THE ROYAL NAVAL COLLEGE.

185

which there were little cabins, in which each man
had his bed. Every cabin had some convenience
or ornament, the exclusive possession of its tenant ;
and these little appendages might have led one
to speculate upon the character of the man to
whom they belonged. In one might be seen a
ballad and a ludicrous print ; in another a Christ- !
mas carol and a Bible. In large communities, and ;
particularly in a collegiate life, men must greatly
subdue their personal habits and feelings into har-
mony witli the general character of their society ;
but the individuality of the human mind will still
predominate, displaying itself in a thousand little
particulars, each of which would furnish to the
accurate inquirer an increased knowledge of the
human heart. The pensioners messed in common,
and they assembled on Sundays for their devotions
in the chapel of the Hospital. Now that the aged
veterans have departed, we may well e.\claim in the
words of the poet : —

" The race of yore

Who danced our infancy upon their knee.
And told our marvelling boyliood legends store
Of their strange 'ventures happ'd by land or sea,
How are they blotted from the things that be ! "

After the pensioners left their old home, the
Hospital remained closed and unoccupied for some
short time, but it was eventually decided to make
it the seat of a Royal Naval College. With this
view, the interior of King Charles's Building was
remodelled and converted into class-rooms for
the naval students ; the rooms in Queen Mary's
Building were renovated and fitted up as dormi-
tories and as general and mess rooms for the
engineer officers and students, whilst the Hospital
Chapel in this block became the College Chapel.
It was also proposed that the Painted Hall should !
become the college dining-hall, but this intention '
was ultimately abandoned. The rest of the build- [
ing was remodelled so as to provide a lecture
theatre and comfortable mess-rooms.

The college was opened in February, 1873,
having been organised, to use the words of the
Order in Council which sanctioned its foundation,
"for the purpose of providing for the education of
naval officers of all ranks above that of midshipmen
in all branches of theoretical and scientific study
bearing upon their profession." The money neces-
sary for the establishment of the new college upon
an adequate scale was willingly voted by Parlia-
ment, and the votes for its subsequent maintenance,
although amounting to a comparatively large sum,
have been Hkewise passed, year by year, without
a question, so that nothing has hindered the Ad-
miralty from carrying out its intentions of giving

to the executive officers of the Navy generally
every possible advantage in respect of scientific
education. The college receives as students
naval officers of all grades, from captains and
commanders, to sub-lieutenants, as also officers of
the Royal Marine Artillery, Royal Marine Light
Infantry, and Naval Engineers, and also a limited
number of apprentices selected annually by com-
petitive examinations from the Royal Dockyards.
By special permission, officers of the mercantile
marine, and private students of naval architecture
and marine engineering, are admitted to the college
classes ; but they must reside outside the precincts
of the Hospital. At the head of the college is
a flag officer as president, who is assisted by
a naval captain in matters affecting discipline ; and
by a Director of Studies, who is charged with the
organisation and superintendence of the whole
systen\ of instruction and the various courses of
study. For the carrying out of a complete system
of scientific and practical instruction, there is a
large staff of professors, lecturers, and teachers. In
the first annual report on the Royal Naval College
which was presented to both Houses of Parliament,
tlie president stated that " the results of the year
show that the standard of examination is so ad-
justed as to enable officers of good abilities, who
on entering the navy dilligently apply themselves
to studying their profession, to obtain their lieu-
tenant's commission ; while, on the other hand,
it aftbrds to those who are backward and ignorant
on joining the college an opportunity of retrieving
lost time and of maintaining their place in the navy
if they earnestly avail themselves throughout the
whole period of study of the means afforded them
at the college."

Queen Anne's Building, as we have stated above,
has been fitted up as a naval museum, primarily
for the use of the college, but open also to the
inspection of the public, except on Fridays and
Sundays. It contains the models of ancient and
modern ships formerly exhibited at South Kensing-
ton, and a great variety of other objects of mari-
time interest brought from that institution, from
the Painted Hall, from Woolwich, Portsmouth,
and different naval stations both at home and
abroad. It presents, in fact, a complete epitome
of naval history, and a most instructive and
valuable series of illustrations of the progress and
development of naval architecture and engineering.
The museum occupies seventeen rooms, and they
still retain the respective names which were
bestowed upon them after the ships in which their
pugnacious old occupants had won their victories —
such, for instance, as the " Howe." the " Windsor

i86

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Grccnwicb,

Castle," the " Victory," the " Vanguard," and so on.
.Space will not admit of our giving more than a
hurried glance at the very interesting collection of
objects here brought together. In the east wing
are placed models showing the construction of
dockyards, docks, plans for hauling up and dock-

carrying 122 guns, thirteen of which were nine-
pounders !— the models present various interme-
diate stages of development until we arrive at
the modern iron-clad and turret-ship. The com-
plete revolution which has taken place in all fight-
ing-ships, and the rapidity with which it has been

GROUP OF GREENWICH PENSIONERS, 1868.

ing ships, classification of masts, yards, &c. ; life-
boats, rafts, lowering apparatus for saving life at
sea, models of engines and machinery, &c. In the
west wing, the models of linc-of-battlc ships are
very interesting, even to those who cannot boast of
any knowledge of naval matters. The scries begins
with the well-known Great. Harry, which was built
in 1 5 13 to replace one destroyed by the French a
year or two previously ; and from this comparatively
primitive craft — which, however, could boast of

brought about, are very strikingly shown here.
Models which only a few years ago represented the
utmost achievements of our naval architects and
engineers, look now to be a very trivial advance
upon the Great Harry. In an adjoining room
are models of ships' ventilating arrangements,
screws, paddles, windlasses, anchors, and so forth ;
besides vvhicli there is an imposing array of missiles
and explosives of various kinds. The shells of
various sizes and forms, exliibited in longitudinal

Greenwich.]

THE "DREADNOUGHT."

187

sections, afford at a glance a great deal of informa-
tion or. the internal nature of these deadly mes-
sengers ; tlien there are some diabolical-looking
machinfis in the form of torpedoes and submarine
mines. In a small room dividing the " Victory "
from the " Vanguard " are deposited the interesting
collection of relics of Sir John Franklin and his
party, which the Lords of the Admiralty presented
to Greenwich Hospital many years ago, and which

At a short distance westward of King William's
Building is a large, substantial brick structure of
two storeys, forming a closed square, which served
as the infirmary for the old pensioners. It was
built in the early part of the reign of George III.,
but was partly destroyed in the fire of 181 1.
When the buildings above described were appro-
priated for the purposes of a Naval College, this
infirmary was assigned by tlie Government to that

ROYAL NAVAL SCHOOL, GREli,^WlCH. [From a Drawing made in 1830.)

had hitherto remained in the Painted Hall with the
" Nelson relics," which likewise have been removed
here. The coat which Nelson wore at the battle
of the Nile, when placed here with other relics
by King William IV., was an object of attraction
to thousands of modem relic-worshippers. It was
given to the king by the Hon. Mrs. Damer, the
well-known sculptress, to whom it was given by
Nelson, when he sat to her for his bust. The walls
of this room are adorned with a valuable collection
of sketches by Benjamin West, representing the
rough designs for paintings and sculptures in the
hospital chapel. The same apartment contains, on
a pedestal, the famous old "astrolabe," constructed
forSir Francis Drake's expedition to the West Indies,
and presented to the hospital by the same king.

excellent institution, the Seamen's Hospital Society,
whose hospital ship, the Dreadiwng/it, moored off
Greenwich, was for years so familiar to all pas-
sengers on the Thames. The infirmary was opened
in 1870, as a "Free Hospital for Seamen of All
Nations." It contains in all upwards of sixty
rooms, together with a chapel, library, museum,
surgery, dispensary, and apartments for the medical
staff and their assistants. The building, which
appears to be well adapted to its purpose, can pro-
vide space for 300 beds ; between 2,000 and 3,000
patients are received here annually. The Seamen's
Hospital Society dates from the year 182 1, when
their floating asylum was originally established on
board the Grampus, a So-gun ship, which had been
granted for the purpose by the Board of Admiralty.

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

It claims particular attention on account of its
great usefulness, being exclusively appropriated to
the relief of a class of men who had till that time
been entirely destitute of a hospital suited to their
peculiar habits, being the only establishment for
the reception of sick seamen arriving from abroad,
or to whom accidents may happen in the river.
In 183 1, the Grampus being found incapable of
furnishing sufficient accommodation, the Dread-
nought, a 9S-gun ship, which had once captured a
Spanish three-decker in Trafalgar Bay, was granted
by the Government, and to her the patients were
transferred; but in 1870 it was decided, on sani-
tary and other grounds, to discontinue the hospital
afloat, and the Dreadnought was abandoned, the
occupants being removed on shore to the infirmary.
Here are received the sick and disabled seamen of
every nation, on presenting themselves, no recom-
mendation being necessary; and here they are
maintained, and, when necessary, clothed, until
entirely convalescent. It is worthy of note that
this e.xcellent institution is supported mainly by
voluntary contributions, and that no money is
received from the Government towards the annual
expenditure. The Duke of Northumberland, in
a letter to the Times in February, 1877, thus
presses the claim of the Seamen's Hospital on the
support of the public : " The seaman, for whose
benefit this institution was founded, has ever been
recognised as having a special title to the succour
and sympathy of this nation, which owes its
grandeur, nay, its existence, to his labour and
sufferings in her cause. To him no other intro-
duction is needed than sickness, disease, or acci-
dent, without distinction of colour, creed, or
nation. This society affords a refuge, not only
during actual illness, but until the sufferer has
gained strength to resume his occupation; 170,000
patients have already received relief at its hands,
and the annual admissions have increased with
the increased accommodation consequent on the
transfer to the society of the infirmary of Greenwich
Hospital, a noble grant from the Imperial Govern-
ment, conveying with it, as it were, a national
recognition 6f its services. ■ To maintain it in full
efficiency a more liberal support on the part of the
public is required, not only on account of the addi-
tional number of patients received, but of the extra
expense which the general rise in prices has brought
on the funds of the establishment. An increase
of the annual subscrii)tion-list from its present
amount of ^^2,500 to ^£'6,000 is the only sound
method of ensuring this object, donations only
affording a casual and uncertain resource. I feel
assured that the attention of the benevolent has

only to be drawn to these facts to secure for the
Seaman's Hospital Society all the help it requires
to develop to the full the capabilities of an insti-
tution, national in its origin and cosmopolitan in
the scope and range of the benefits it confers."
It may not be out of place to state here that
Her Majesty the Queen contributes 100 guineas
annually to the funds of this institution, annually
e.xpressing " her anxiety for the maintenance of so
excellent a charity, which grants relief when most
needed to seamen of all nations."

Close by this building are the western gates, the
piers of which are crowned by two large stone
globes — one the celestial and the other the ter-
restrial— each six feet in diameter ; on the former
the meridians and circles, and on the latter the
parallels of latitude and longitude are said to have
been laid down, and the globes adjusted with great
accuracy, by the authorities of the Observatoiy.

The Queen's House, as the building on the
south side of Greenwich Hospital was once called,
now serves as the Royal Naval School, and thither
we will now proceed. The building, which was^
commenced by Anne of Denmark, and finished by
Henrietta Maria, forms the centre of the present
range of buildings devoted to the purposes of the
school, and immediately faces the central avenue
of the hospital. It bears on the front the date
1635, but it has been much altered since then.
The wings are united to the central building by a
colonnade 180 feet long. The Queen's House,
after being long used as the ranger's lodge, when
it was known as Pelham House, was, in 1807,
appropriated to the use of the Royal Naval
Asylum, which had been originally established at
Paddington. The Royal Naval Schools, although
cut off from the actual precincts of Greenwich
Hospital, in spite of many internal changes, are
among the earliest foundations in connection with
it. In the original charter it was provided that
out of the funds provision was to be made for
" the maintenance and education of the children of
seamen happening to be slain or disabled in the
service of the royal navy." In pursuance of this
provision a school was founded at Greenwich in
1712, for boys and girls, the qualification being
that they were the children of " pensioners or other
poor seamen." At first the number of boys was
only ten ; but, with a gradual increase in the
revenue of the hospital, this number was increased
to 200 in the year 1803. In 1821 the Royal Naval
As)'lum, wliicli at that time educated 680 boys
and 200 girls, was incorporated with these schools.
After some other changes, the Greenwich schools
were open to receive the sons of officers, and they

{

Greenwich.]

THE ROYAL NAVAL SCHOOL.

supplied an education by no means contemplated
either in character or cost by the original act. An
investigation made by a committee in 1871 dis-
covered not only that the schools were being im-
properly administered, but that boys were entered
who were totally unfit for sea life ; and in nearly
every conceivable respect they found the intentions
of the founders of these schools had been compro-
mised. They recommended, therefore, a radical
alteration in their organisation, they re-imposed the
old conditions of entry, and insisted on a prepara-
tion for sea life being considered an indispensable
condition of entry. Under this revision, which
was speedily carried out, the schools became, as
was intended, a sort of nursery for the navy. The
boys, under this system, are now entered at ten
years of age ; and if, at the age of thirteen, they
are unwilling or unable to enter the navy, they are
compelled to leave the school, and make way for
boys who are fit for naval service. The number of
boys under instruction is nearly 1,000, and besides
the ordinary rudiments of education they are
taught seamanship as well as it possibly can be
taught on shore, and they are also trained to all
kinds of industrial occupations, such as cooking,
bread-making, tailoring, washing (the heavy work
being done by labour-saving machinery), ironing,
carpentering, and other like work — the whole of
the clothes for the school being made on the spot,
the repairs of the building done by the inmates,
and the food cooked, the boys doing the greater
part of the labour.

In connection with the Royal Naval School there
is a spacious swimming-bath, v/here all the boys are
taught to swim ; there is also a capacious gym-
nasium ; and last, not least, a full-rigged model
ship, a corvette, on the lawn in front of the
principal building, in which the juvenile crew are
taught the " duties of men of the sea." In the
year 1877 it was announced that the Admiralty
proposed to ma,ke an important alteration in the
school, requiring henceforth that the boys who
entered it should give a guarantee that, if judged
to be physically fit, they would enter Her Majesty's
navy at the conclusion of their training.

The administration of the affairs of Greenwich
Hospital, down to the time of its " disestablish-
ment " as such, were, as we have stated above, in
the hands of a Board of Commissioners, appointed
under royal charter. The principal ofi'icers were a
governor, lieutenant-governor, four captains, eight
lieutenants, a treasurer, a secretary, an auditor, a
surveyor, a clerk of the works, a clerk of the
cheque, two chaplains, a physician, a surgeon, a
steward, and various other assistants.

It would, of course, be impossible for us in these
pages to speak of all the distinguished men who
have taken part in these difterent offices ; but we
may be pardoned for mentioning two or three.
Among the former chaplains, then, was the Rev.
Nicholas Tindal, the fellow-worker with Morant in
the " History of Essex," and also in the translation
of Rapin's " History of England." He died at an
advanced age, and was buried in the new cemetery.
Of Evelyn and his son-in-law. Draper, we have
already spoken as acting as treasurers ; another
person who occupied that position was Mr. Swynfen
Jervis, a solicitor, the father of a great naval com-
mander. Lord St. Vincent, whose after-life, too,
in a manner became interested in the affairs of
Greenwich Hospital. How Lord St. Vincent's early
difficulties were overcome by native hardihood and
determination, we learn from his own words. " My
father," he says, " had a very large family, with
very limited means. He gave me at starting in
life ;^2o, and that was all he ever gave me. After
I had been a considerable time at the station
[Jamaica] I drew for twenty more, but the bill
came back protested. I was mortified at this
rebuke, and made a promise, which I have ever
kept, that I"would never draw another bill without a
certainty of its being paid. I immediately changed
my mode of living ; quitted my mess, lived alone,
and took up the ship's allowance, which I found
quite sufficient ; washed and mended my old
clothes ; and made a pair of trousers out of the
ticking of my bed ; and having by these means
saved as much money as redeemed my honour,
I took up my bill, and from that time to this I
have lived within my means."

Edward, first Earl of Sandwich — the " My lord "
of Pepys's " Diary " — in his official capacity as
Lord High Admiral of England, took an active
part in the administration of the affairs of Green-
wich Hospital. As Sir Edward INIontagu he had
been distinguished as a military commander under
the Parliamentarian banner in the civil war, and
was subsequently joint High Admiral of England, in
which capacity, having had sufficient influence to
induce the whole fleet to acknowledge the restored
monarchy, he was elevated to the peerage by
Charles II. After the Restoration, he obtained
the highest renown as a naval officer, and fell in
the great sea-fight with the Dutch, off Southwold
Bay, in 1672. His great-grandson, John, the
fourth Earl of Sandwich, was likewise officially,
and perhaps not very creditably, connected with
Greenwich Hospital. This nobleman, an eminent
diplomatist and statesman, assisted at the congress
of Aix-la-Chapelle, in the year 1748 ; he was subse-

IQO

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

quently Secretary of State, and first Lord of the
Admiralty.

The appointment of Sir Hugh Palliser, in 1778,
to the governorship of Greenwich Hospital, was
the subject of a vote of censure on the ministry,
proposed by no less a person than Charles James
Fox. The motion was negatived, and Palliser
held the post till his death in 1796 ; but no First
Lord of the Admiralty ever ventured again to give
him active employ at sea.

It will be remembered by the readers of history
that the affairs of this hospital gave Lord Erskine
his first start in that profession of which he rose to
be so great a luminary. Having left the navy,
and been called to the Bar, he was engaged in a
prosecution for libel, which was in fact instituted
by the First Lord of the Admiralty, Lord Sandwich,
who had abused the munificent institution which
was under his official control by appointing lands-
men as pensioners, in order to serve the electioneer-
ing purposes of his party. Such was the effect of
Mr. Erskine's indignant speecli in this case that
the hitherto unknown advocate had thirty retaining
fees offered him on the spot, and he may be
said to have left the court with his fortune made.
He ultimately became, as is well known, Lord
Chancellor, in the ministry of " All the Talents,"
and a peer of the realm.

When the Act of Parliament above referred to
came into operation, the ofiices of commissioners,
governor, and lieutenant-governor were abolished,

and the Admiralty had conferred upon them the
power to dismiss any other officials they thought
proper ; but every such official would be allowed
to receive an annuity for life equal in amount to
the salaries and emoluments he then enjoyed, and
he would also continue to receive any superannua-
tion allowance he might at the time be in receipt
of. The governor and lieutenant-governor were
allowed to retain their titles and their residences
in the hospital.

The entire control of the hospital and institutions
attached to it is now in the Admiralty, subject to
the veto of the council, and the expenses are, in
the first instance, paid out of money provided by
Parliament for that purpose. All the property
belonging to the hospital is vested in the Admiralty
under the same provisions as lands vested in the
Board under the Admiralty Lands and Works Act
of 1864, together with the ^20,000 paid annually
out of the Consolidated Fund.

In concluding this chapter, we may remark that
before the "chest," or fund for disabled seamen,
was removed to Greenwich, in order to be better
regulated, the pensioners, who resided at a distance
from the spot, and whose appearance before the
commissioners was only occasionally required, were
accustomed to barter away their stipends to certain
usurers, who made large fortunes at their expense.
These were the speculators in " seamen's tickets,"
of whom it is generally, though erroneously, sup-
posed that Thomas Guy was a specimen.*

CHAPTER XV.

GREENWICH {continued). —T HE PARISH CHURCH, &c.

"To Greenwiche, that many a shrew is in." — Chaucer's '^ Canierimry Taics."

Gradual Extension of London — Greenwich as a Parhamentary Borough — The Assizes for Kent formerly held here — The Present Condition and
Population of Greenwich — The Church of St. Alphege— Portraits of Queen Elizabeth. Charles I., Queen Anne> and George I., formerly in
Greenwich Church — Greenwich one of the Head-quarters of the Huguenot Refugees — The*' Spanish Galleon" — Dr. Johnson a Resident
in (Greenwich — General Withers and Colonel Disney Residents here— Queen Elizabeth's College — The Jubilee Alnushouses — Baths and Wash-
houses— The Lecture Hall— The Theatre— Groom's Mill— The Roman Catholic Church— The "New Church" of St. Mary- Greenwiili
Market — Spring Gardens — Lennier's Collection of Pictures — Strange Monsters exhibited here — The Duke of Norfolk's College — A Remark
.-tble High Tide— Sir John Winter's Project for Charring Sea-coal— The Royal Thames Yacht Club— 'fhc Tilt-Boat— The Admiralty Barge
The Royal State Barge- River-side Hotels— Whitebait Dinners— The Origin of the Ministerial Fish Dinner— Samuel Rogers and Curran—
Charles Dickens at Greenwich — The Touting System — Greenwich Fair.

Although Greenwich is four miles distant from
London either by road or rail, and five miles from
London Bridge by the river, it has, nevertheless,
for the.se many years lost its separate existence,
and been absorbed into the great metropolis, just
as many larger places around London have been
swallowed up before and since ; and Greenwich
at the present moment is almost as much a part

of the great metropolis as St. John's Wood and
Islington.

Of the early history of the manor of Greenwicii
we have already spoken ; the jircscnt local import-
ance of the town, however, must be attributed to
the establishment, firstly of tiie royal residence

• S'.'ft ante, o. 93,

Greenwich. ]

THE CHURCH OF ST. ALPHEGE.

191

here, and ultimately of the Royal Hospital. It
sent members to Parliament in the fifth and sixth
years of Philip and Mary's reign, but discontinued
to do so afterwards. This was the more strange
on account of the affection with which the royal
town of Greenwich was regarded by Queen Eliza-
beth. Two centuries later, however, that honour
was restored to it ; for under the Reform Bill of
1832 Greenwich, conjointly with Deptford, Wool-
wich, Charlton, and Plumstead, was created a
Parliamentary borough, returning two members to
Parliament. Among the distinguished men who
liave been returned as its representatives, we may
mention Sir David Salomons, the first member of
the Jewish community who ever took his seat in
the House of Commons ; Admiral Sir Houston
Stewart, some time Governor of Greenwich Hos-
pital ; General Sir William Codrington, Governor of
Gibraltar, and head of the army in the Crimea ;
and last, not least, Mr. W. E. Gladstone, who took
refuge here on his rejection by South Lancashire,
in 1868.

In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the assizes for
the county of Kent were held here on three occa-
sions. The town in itself has not much in the way
of public buildings to be described in these pages.
Originally a small fishing village — like its neigh-
bour, Deptford — the place has gone on increasing
gradually to its present size ; the streets, conse-
quently, are somewhat irregular in plan and diver-
sified in character, but possess no features either
imposing or picturesque. At the commencement
of the present century the number of inhabitants
was 14,000, which had swelled to 46,000 at the
taking of the census in 1881.

Numerous improvements were made in the town
during the first decade of the present century ;
these considerably altered its appearance. Mr.
Richardson, in his work already referred to, pub-
lished in 1834, says that, "To show the rural
character of the place to a very recent period, it
may be mentioned that within the last twenty
years there were posts and rails to divide the foot-
path from the road on Groom's Hill, and that till
the year 18 13 there were trees standing in the very
centre of the town, nearly opposite the church.
London Street, the leading thoroughfare on enter-
ing the town from the metropolis, has also, within
the last thirty years, assumed a much altered ap-
pearance in its change of character from a street
of private residences to one of commerce, almost
every house within it now presenting a shop front-
age ; whereas, at the period alluded to, the shops
were very few in number, and almost wholly con-
fined to that end nearest the centre of the town."

The parish church, dedicated to St. Alphege,
stands in the centre of the town, at the junction of
London Street, Church Street, and Stockwell Street.
It is one of the " fifty new churches " provided for
by Act of Parliament in the reign of Queen Anne ;
and it occupies the site of the old parish church,
the roof of which fell in and seriously damaged the
rest of the fabric in November, 17 10. A writer in
the Gentleman's Magazine, for May, 1S05, p. 422,
after alluding to the pernicious consequences arising
from the old practice of burying in churches, by
which the pavement was defaced, and the windows
filled up with monuments, remarks, " But, what is
worse, I have known the whole building demolished,
and thrown into a heap of rubbish, by the digging
of a grave too near the foundation of a pillar, so
that, being undermined, great hath been the fall
thereof. Thus fell the ancient church of Green-
wich a few years since, but, by the providence of
Heaven, no person was therein." In this church
was a portrait, on glass, of Humphrey, Duke of
Gloucester; there were also several monuments
and brasses to the distinguished worthies who were
buried there, among whom were Thomas Tallis,
the great composer of church music, and musician
in the royal chapels in the reigns of Henry VIII.,
Edward VI., and Queens Mary and Elizabeth ; he
died in 1585, and a brass plate recording his burial
here has been affixed in the present church ; there
also rest Robert Adams, architect (1595) ; William
Lambarde, the antiquary, and author of the " Per-
ambulation of Kent" (1601); and Thomas Phili-
pott, writer of the "Villare Cantianum " (1682).
The monuments in the old church perished with
the building, with the exception of that of Lam-
barde, which was rescued from the wreck and
removed to Sevenoaks Church. In commemo-
ration of St. Alphege was put up in the old church
the following inscription — " This church was erected
and dedicated to the glory of God, and the memory
of Saint Alphege, Archbishop of Canterbury, here
slain by the Danes." Mention is made of the old
parish church by our gossiping friends Evelyn and
Pepys. The former, under date of April 24, 16S7,
writes : " At Greenwich, at the conclusion of the
church service, there was a French sermon preach'd
after the use of the English Liturgy translated into
French, to a congregation of about 100 French
refugees, of whom Monsieur Ruvigny was the
chiefe, and had obtain'd the use of the church
after the parish service was ended." LTnlike the
excellent John Evelyn, Pepys occasionally notes in
his " Diary " facts which do not raise our estimate
of his morals or his religion ; for instance, he writes :
" By coach to Greenwich church, where a good

192

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

sermon, a fine church, and a great company of
handsome women."

The present church of St. Alphege was com-
pleted in 1 7 18, and consecrated by Bishop Atter-
bury. It is a thoroughly solid-looking edifice of
Portland stone, and was built from the designs of
John James, a local architect. The building is
cruciform in plan, with a tower of three stages,
tapering to a spire, at the western end. In 1813,

new church are Admiral Lord Aylmer, Governor
of Greenwich Hospital and Ranger of the Park,
who died in 1720; General Wolfe, the victor of
Quebec (1759); and Lavinia, Duchess of Bolton
(famous as an actress for her impersonation of
" Polly Peachum"), who was interred here in 1760.
There were formerly hung upon the walls of this
church portraits of Queen Elizabeth, Charles I.,
Queen Anne, and George I. ; but becoming, by

THE P.\RISII CHURCH, GREE.NWICH.

during a violent thunderstorm, the spire of this
church was struck by the electric fluid and shivered
to pieces, but it has been rejilaced. The style
of architecture is the Roman Doric of the period.
The interior is spacious : it has a broad nave with
aisles, shallow transepts, and a coved recess for
the chancel. Deep galleries extend along the two
sides, and across the western end, the latter con-
taining the organ. In 1870 the old-fashioned
square pews were converted into open sittings, and
various other alterations were made. The galleries,
pulpit, and fittings generally are of dark oak, highly
carved and polished. The columns arc of the
Corinthian order; and the decorations of the altar-
recess are ascribed to Sir James Thornliill.

Among the notable personages buried in the

lapse of time, dingy and faded, they were stowed
away as lumber in the organ-loft of the church,
and ultimately sold by the churchwardens. The
portrait of Queen Anne went to the Painted Hall,
in Greenwich Hospital, for the sum of ^10, the
permission of the Lords Commissioners of the Ad-
miralty having been obtained to pay that sum for it.
The portraits of Queen Elizabeth, Charles I., and
George I. were sold to a general dealer living in
New Cross for jQzo 15s., and were subsciiuently
sold by him at a profit of 505. to a picture-dealer in
New Bond Street, by whom they were restored.
The portrait of King George represents the king in
fiill coronation dress, the heavy ennine cloak being
thrown back in front, revealing a rich close-fitting
dress, while round the shoulders is a massive

Greenwich

ROYAL PORTRAITS IN GREENWICH CHURCH.

193

chain, from which is suspended the prancing horse
of Hanover. On the table beside his Majesty are
the crown and sceptre, the king's Iiand grasping tlie
ball and cross. In the background is a view of
Westminster Abbey. The value of this picture is
stated to be over ^^500. Tlie portrait of Charles I.,
ten feet square, is supposed to be the work of Sir j
Peter Lely. The painting represents the king in a
prayerful attitude, and is believed to be even more 1

the roof of the former structure fell in at midnight,
28th November, 17 10, and when the present church
was erected, several monuments and all the stained
glass in the windows containing armorial bearings,
were missing ; and upon inspecting the parish chest
some years ago, the wliole of the ancient charters
and papal bulls relative to this church, known to
have been there in 18 16, were not to be found."
Queen Elizabeth, as we have already remarked,

THE DUKE OK NOKKOLK S ALMSHOUSES, IN I79O.

valuable than that of George I. All the monarchs
mentioned were associated with Greenwich, but
their portraits are now scattered.

With reference to the manner in which these
portraits came into the possession of the parish,
a correspondent of the Times in 1876 wrote: — ■
"According to a list, taken in 1706, 'the picture of
Queen Elizabeth in a handsome black frame, with
ornaments of gilding about it, was painted at the
parish charge.' ' The picture of King Charles the
Martyr, with a fair frame, fillited with gold, was the
gift of Mrs. Mary Squib ' probably about 167 1).
The remaining portraits were doubtless bestowed
on the parish by the Crown (the lord of the manor),
or loyal parishioners. The antiquities of the church
of St. Alphege have been very unfortunate. After
257

made the palace her favourite summer residence.
Charles I. passed much of his time at the " House
of Delight." Queen Anne, as we have seen, built
one of the wings of the Hospital, which still bears
her name ; while George I. landed at Greenwich
on his arrival from Hanover.

Greenwich became one of the head-quarters of
the Huguenot refugees, after the revocation of the
Edict of Nantes ; and in London Street was, in
the reigns of James II. and William III., a chapel
for their use. It was erected by one of their
most distinguished members, the aged Marquis
de Ruvigny, a person of learning, who had been
ambassador at St. James's and at other courts, as
well as Deputy of the Protestants of France in the
Parliament at Paris, and who formed the centre of

194

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

(Greenwich.

a large circle of his countrymen. Before their
chapel was ready for use the Huguenots were
allowed to use the parish church, at the end of the
afternoon service, on Sundays. John Evelyn, in his
" Diary," as we have seen above, records the fact
of his being present at this service, in 1687. The
little foreign colony is extinct, and the chapel is
now occupied as a Nonconformist meeting-house.

In Church Street is an inn bearing the very
singular title of the "Spanish Galleon." The sign
owes its existence, in all probability, to the fact
of its standing so near to the pictures of our naval
victories in the Royal Hospital, in which captured
Spanish galleons figure somewhat frequently.

It may possibly be remembered by readers of
Boswell that, when Dr. Johnson first wrote to
Edmund Cave, the proprietor and editor of the
newly-founded Gentleman s Magazine, it was from
"Greenwich, next door to the 'Golden Heart,' in
Church Street," where he had taken apartments
when he first came from his native Lichfield to
town, in order to write the parliamentary articles
for the above-mentioned publication.

The following list of Dr. Johnson's places of
residence after he had entered the metropolis as an
author is based on Boswell's Life : — Exeter iStreet,
Strand; Greenwich; Woodstock Street, Hanover
Square ; No. 6, Castle Street, Cavendish Square ;
Strand; Boswell Court; Strand again; Bow
Street; Staple's Inn; Gray's Inn; No. i. Inner
Temple Lane ; No. 7, Johnson's Court ; and No.
8, Bolt Court.

Greenwich appears to have been a favourite
place with the old lexicographer ; much of his
tragedy of I)-cne was written whilst he was living
here ; and, as Boswell tells us, it was partly com-
posed beneath the spreading elms in Greenwich
Park. Railways being at that time a mode of con-
veyance undreamed of, the river was Johnson's
favourite highway between Greenwich and London.
The following anecdote, told concerning an in-
cident which took place on one occasion when
Boswell and Johnson were proceeding thither in
a boat from the Temple, may bear repeating : —
"Boswell asked Johnson if he really thought a
knowledge of the Greek and Latin languages an
essential requisite to a good education. Johnson ;
' Most certainly, sir ; for those who know them
have a very great advantage over those who do
not. Nay, sir, it is wonderful what a difference
learning makes upon people even in the common
intercourse of life, which does not appear to be
much connected . with it.' Bosivell: 'And yet
people go through the world very well, and carry
on the business of life to good advantage, without

learning.' Johnson : ' Why, sir, that may be true
in cases where learning cannot possibly be of any
use ; for instance, this boy rows us as well without
learning, as if he could sing the song of Orpheus
to the Argonauts, who were the first sailors.' He
then called to the boy, ' What would you give, my
lad, to know about the Argonauts ? ' ' Sir,' said
the boy, ' I would give what I have.' Johnson was
much pleased with his answer, and we gave him a
double fare."

Other noted residents of Greenwich about this
time were General Withers and Colonel Disney,
convivial friends of Pope ; the latter is mentioned
in Lady Mary Wortley Montagu's letters as "Duke
Disney." They are thus jointly commemorated by
Pope in his Panegyrics : —

" Now pass we Gravesend witli a friendly wind,
And Tilbury's white fort, and long Blackwall ;

Greenwich, where dwells the friend of human kind ;
More visited than either park or hall,

Withers the good, and with him ever joined
Facetious Disney, greet thee first of all;

I see his chimney smoke, and hear him say,

' Duke ! that's the room for Pope, and that for Gay.

" ' Come in, my friends, here ye shall dine and lie.
And here shall breakfast, and shall dine again;

And sup and breakfast on, if ye comply ;
For I have still some dozens of champagne.'

His voice still lessens as the ship sails by.
He w.ives his hand to bring us back in vain ;

For now I see, I see proud London's spires,

Greenwich is lost, and Deptford Dock retires."

In the Greenwich Road, nearly opposite the
railway station, stands Queen Elizabeth's College,
founded by \Villiam Lambarde, the historian of
Kent, in 1576, for twenty poor men and their
wives. It is said, and perhaps trul)-, to have been
the first public charity of the kind founded after
the Reformation. The almshouses were rebuilt
early in the present century ; each of the inmates
has a separate tenement and garden, and ;^20
a year in hard cash. The endowment, which has
been greatly augmented in value since Lanibarde's
time, is under the control of the Drapers' Company,
who have of late built some additional houses, and
made other improvements. The founder, with the
consent of the Bishoj) of Rochester, composed a
form of morning and evening i)rayer, to be used in
the college ; and he made his endowment void, if
it should ever become unlawful, by the statutes of
the realm, to use it.

The Jubilee Almshouses, in this road, were
founded by a subscription raised among the towns-
people in 1809, in commemoration of King
George III. having, on the 25th of October of that
year, entered upon the fiftieth year of his reign.

Greenwich.]

GROOM'S HILL.

195

Additional almshouses have since been added on
several public occasions ; and there are now twenty
houses in all, and each of the occupants receives
a small annuity.

At the corner of Royal Hill are some com-
modious baths and wash-houses, near to which is
a large lecture-hall and also a theatre ; but with
regard to these buildings nothing need be said
further than that they meet their several require-
ments. There was formerly a theatre in London
Street, but it was destroyed by fire in 183 1. A
few years later the proprietor, a Mr. Savill, con-
structed, on a novel principle, another theatre of
iron, all the parts of which were put together with
screws, so as to be capable of being taken to pieces,
and conveyed to different towns.

Eastward of Royal Hill, and skirting the western
side of Greenwich Park, is Groom's Hill, a steep
and winding thoroughfare leading from the town
up to Blackheath. A conspicuous object here is
the lofty tower and spire of St. Mary's Roman
Gatholic Ghurch, which, with its external statue of
St. Mary, " star of the sea," is built so as to strike
the eye of mariners as they sail up the river.

Near the bottom of Groom's Hill, close by the
principal entrance to the park, stands the " new
church" of St. Mary. It is a neat edifice of a semi-
classic style of architecture, constructed of Suffolk
brick and Bath stone, and the chief feature of the
exterior is an Ionic portico at the western end,
above which rises a tower of two stages. The "first
stone" of the structure was laid by the Princess
Sophia in 1823, and the church was consecrated
in 1825. Over the altar is a picture of " Ghrist
giving Sight to the Blind," painted by Richter, and
presented by the British Institution.

From this church a broad thoroughfare called
King Street leads direct to the pier, close by the
Ship Hotel ; and on the west side of this street, is
the Market-place, which has its principal entrance
in Glarence Street, and another entrance in Nelson
Street, a broad well-built street so called after
England's great naval hero. The market was
erected by the Commissioners of the Royal Hos-
pital near the site of a former market, and was
opened in 1831. It contains spacious accommo-
dation for vendors of meat, fish, vegetables, &c.,
and the whole is surrounded by a block of good
substantial houses, with shops. The profits of the
market being vested in Henry, Earl of Romney —
whose name is still perpetuated in Romney Place
— were given by him, in 1700, to the Royal Hos-
pital, as stated in the preceding chapter.

Like St. James's Park and Hampstead, Green-
wich in former times could boast of its ■' Spring

Gardens." In the General Advertiser for May 25,
17 7 1, occurs the following announcement : — ■

"Spring Gardens, Greenwich. — The Evening Enter-
tainments at tliis place will begin this day, the 25th inst,
willi a good Band of Vocal and Instrumental Musick. To
be continued on Saturday and Monday Evenings during the
Summer Season. N. B. — The Grand Room in the garden is
upwards of fifty feet long."

These gardens, as a correspondent of Notes and
Queries tells us, were situate near Ghrist Church, in
East Greenwich, and, for many years after they
were closed as a place of amusement, were turned
into garden ground, but, as is the fate of many
such places in the vicinity of London, the site is
now nearly built over.

On account of the contiguity of this town to
Deptford, it is frequently mentioned by Evelyn
and likewise by Pepys in their amusing diaries.
The former, writing in 1652, makes this entry: —
" Came old Jerome Lennier, of Greenwich, a man
skill'd in painting and musiq, and another rare
musitian, called Mell. I went to see his collection
of pictures, especially those of Julio Romano, which
surely had been the king's, and an Egyptian figure,
&c. There were also excellent things of Polydore,
Guido, Raphael, Tintoret, &c. Lennier had been
a domestic of Qu. Elizabeth's, and show'd me her
head, an intaglia in a rare sardonyx, cut by a
famous Italian, which he assur'd me was ex-
ceedingly like her."

For the same reason, too, nat.urally enough,
Greenwich became a depot for strange and foreign
airiosa; at all events, Evelyn informs us in his
"Diary "that he came hither in 1657 to see "a
sort of catt, brought from the East Indies, shap'd
and snouted much like the Egyptian racoon, in
the body like a monkey, and so footed ; the eares
and taile like a catt, onely the taile much longer
and the skin variously ringed with black and
white ; with the taile it wound up its body like a
serpent, and so got up into trees, and with it
would wrap its whole body round. Its haire,"
he adds, " was woolly, like a lamb's ; it was
exceedingly nimble and gentle, and purr'd as does
the catt."

If we may believe the paragraph WTiters of the
London journals in 1683, this place has been
often haunted by other strange monsters ; as
witness the following item extracted from their
columns : — " A perfect mermaid was, by the last
great wind, driven ashore near Greenwich, with
her comb in one hand and her looking-glass in
the other. She seemed to be of the countenance
of a most fair and beautiful woman, with her arms
crossed, weeping out many pearly drops of salt

196

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

tears; and afterwards she, gently turning herself
upon her back, swam away without being seen
any more." Probably the writer believed the sub-
stance of this paragraph, and only exercised his
journalistic talent in decorating his fact with tender
and romantic incidents.

In or about 1749 there was exhibited at the
" Rose and Crown," near the gates of the park, a
strange collection of wild beasts, from the catalogue
of which we take the following items : — " i. A
large and beautiful young camel, from Grand Cairo,
in Egypt, near eight feet high, though not two
years old, and drinks water but once in sixteen
days. 2. A surprising hyajna, from the Coast of
Guinea. 3. A beautiful he panther, from Buenos
A}Tes, in the Spanish West Indies. 4. A young
riobiscay, from Russia ; and several other creatures
too tedious to mention. Likewise a travelling
post-chaise, from Switzerland, which, without horses,
keeps its stage for upwards of fifty miles a day,
without danger to the rider. Attendance from
eight in the morning till eight at night." This
list we take from Mr. Frost's " Old Showmen ; "
but what the "riobiscay" can have been is beyond
our power to discover.

At the eastern end of the town, fronting the
Thames, is a college for the maintenance of twenty
old and decayed housekeepers, twelve of whom
are to be chosen from Greenwich, and the rest
alternately from two parishes in Norfolk. It is
called the Duke of Norfolk's College, though it
was founded not by one of the Dukes of Norfolk,
but by his brother Henry, Earl of Northampton,
who committed it to the care of the Mercers'
Company. The earl's body rests in the chapel
of the college, having been brought there from
Dover Casde about the year 1770. The edifice,
which is commonly styled Trinity Hospital, is
situated at a short distance eastward of Greenwich
Ho.spital. It is a large quadrangular pile of brick
buildings, with a tower.

A stone let into the wall of the wharf, opposite
the entrance to the college, bears upon it a line
denoting a " remarkable high tide, March 20,
1874;" the line is two feet four inches above the
pavement, and consequently several feet above the
ordinary high-water mark. Apropos of this mention
of the tide, we may state that the whole valley of
the Thames was once a gulf or bay of the sea,
being, in fact, but a breach or cleft in the ordinary
mass of deposit which once rose for 200 or 300
feet above what is now the bed of the river.

There was a ferry here more than two centuries
ago, for Evelyn records in his "Diary," July, 1656,
how he returned by it out of Essex to Saye's Court.

" Here," Evelyn writes, " I saw Sir John Winter's
new project of charring sea-coale to burn out
the sulphur, and render it sweete. He did it by
burning the coals in such earthen pots as (those
in which) the glasse-men mealt {sic) their mettall,
so firing them without consuming them ; using a
barr of yron in each crucible or pot, which bar has
a hook at one end, so that the coales, being melted
in a furnace with other crude sea-coales under
them, may be drawn out of the potts sticking to
the yron, whence they are beaten off in greate
half-exhausted cinders, which, being rekindled,
make a cleare, pleasant chamber fire, deprived of
their sulphur and arsenic malignity. What success
it may have time will discover." Unfortunately,
Evelyn does not tell us whether ultimately Sir
John Winter found his project remunerative ; but
it may be added that within the present century
the late Lord Dundonald tried to revive the plan,
with the projected improvement of extracting and
saving the tar. His lordship, however, failed to
make it answer ; but the coal thus charred is now
sold by almost every gas company under the name
of coke.

It may not ,be out of place to record here that
the Royal Thames Yacht Club close their annual
season by an excursion down the river. The
yachts rendezvous in the afternoon at Greenwich,
and come to an anchor for the night at Erith.
The commodore takes the chair in the evening at
the "Crown Inn." On the following morning
the members and their friends proceed on various
cruises, many of these trips extending to several
days. It may interest some of the members to
know that their excursions have had a forerunner
in times long gone by ; for Evelyn tells us how, in
the summer of 1661, he sailed with "the merry
monarch " in one of his " yachts or pleasure boats,"
and raced another yacht all the way to Gravesend
and back, the king himself sometimes steering.
" The king," he adds, " lost it in going, the wind
being contrary; but sav'd stakes in returning."
It was by joining with his subjects in these amuse-
ments that King Charles gained that personal
poi)ularity which, in spite of his many vices, never
forsook him.

Not only with Dr. Johnson, of whom we have
spoken above, but with the public at large the river
Thames has always been tlic favourite way of
reaching Greenwich from London, both before and
since the introduction of steamboats. In former
times the chief mode of conveyance on the river
was by small boats rowed by watermen ; but the
" tilt boat " is often mentioned, in the reign of
George III., as one of the regular conveyances

Greenwich.]

THE MINISTERIAL FISH DINNER.

197

which carried passengers down the river — to Green-
wich, Woolwich, Gravesend, &c. These boats started
from the Dark House, at Billingsgate ; they took
twelve hours on the journey to Gravesend if the
weather was fair, and the wind not utterly adverse ;
, but more, of course, if that was the case, and if
they had not reached their destination when the
tide turned. These boats were superseded by
steamers, after the model of those already in use
upon the Clyde, about the year 1816. The name
of the "Tilt Boat" is still preserved on the sign-
boards of one or two river-side inns.

The Admiralty barge was constantly employed
on the silent highway of the Thames, down to a
comparatively recent date, in showing the " lions "
of tlie metropolis to distinguished foreigners. Thus
Lady Lepel Hervey, in the reign of George II.,
relates how one of the lords of the Admiralty,
Mr. Stanley, did the honours on behalf of his
country to the Spanish Ambassador, his family,
and several people of fashion, " the greatest part
of whom he carried in barges down to Greenwich,
nothing being wanting of water equipage ; salutes
upon the river, in the greatest pomp and order;
and a reception at the landing at the hospital by
the admiral, the governor, and all the officers."

Greenwich has been the place of debarkation of
many illustrious visitors, and several royal person-
ages, among whom may be noticed the Princess
Augusta of Saxe Gotha, afterwards married to
Frederick, Prince of Wales ; and the Princess
Caroline of Brunswick, who landed here in order
to become the much-injured and unhappy wife of
George, Prince of Wales (afterwards George IV.).
From this place the latter passed on to London,
in the midst of universal shouts of popular joy,
her progress being almost a triumphal procession.
Alas ! in how short a time was she destined to rue
the day ! After her separation she lived for many
years at Charlton, on the edge of Blackheath.

One of the last state visits of the sovereign to
Greenwich was made in October, 1797, when
King George III. proceeded in the royal yacht
to Greenwich, and thence to Sheerness to review
the fleet at the Nore, and to see the Dutch ships
which had been lately captured by Lord Duncan
at the battle of Camperdown.

The royal state barge was used as late as 1843,
when the Prince Consort made a progress in it from
AVhitehall to the Brunswick Pier, at Blackwall, for
the purpose of inspecting the Victoria and Albert
steam-yacht, then in process of construction in the
East India Docks. The barge, which had just been
re-fitted and re-gilt at Woolwich Dockyard, was
sixty-four feet in length, and about seven feet in 1

width; the head and stern were elaborately carved,
and gilt, and, with her highly-varnished timbers, had
a right royal splendour. The vessel was rowed by
twenty-two watermen in scarlet liveries, and the
Admiralty barge, which accompanied it, by ten men
in scarlet coats. The state barge, we are told, " in
its progress to and from Blackwall, attracted many
spectators on the river and its banks, and, with
the Admiralty barge, formed a splendid piece of
water pageantry, such as is but rarely witnessed on
London's majestic river." It has long been dis-
used, and is now laid up, destined never, probably,
to be launched again. In 1883 it was on view at
the Fisheries Exhibition at Kensington.

Overlooking the Thames, and in the immediate
vicinity of the Royal Hospital, are those noted
water-side hotels which have become celebrated for
public dinners, and particularly for whitebait. The
chief of these taverns are the " Ship," a Httle to the
westward of the Hospital, and the "Crown and
Sceptre," and the " Trafalgar," the latter of which
has become celebrated for its "Ministerial fish
dinners."

" At what period the lovers of good living first
went to eat whitebait at ' the taverns contiguous
to the jDlaces where the fish is taken,' is not very
clear. At all events," writes John Timbs, in his
" Club Life of London," " the houses did not re-
semble the 'Brunswick,' the 'West India Dock,'
the ' Ship,' or the ' Trafalgar ' of the present day,
these having much of the architectural pretension of
a modern club-house. Whitebait have long been
numbered among the delicacies of our table ; for
we find ' six dishes of whitebait ' in the funeral feast
of the munificent founder of the Charterhouse,
given in the Hall of the Stationers' Company, or.
May 28, r6i2 — the year before the Globe Theatre
was burnt down, and the New River completed.
For aught we know, these delicious fish may have
been served up to Henry VIII. and Queen Eliza-
beth in their palace at Greenwich, off which place,
and Blackwall opposite, whitebait have been for
ages taken in the Thames at flood-tide. To the
river-side taverns we must go to enjoy a 'whitebait
dinner,' for one of the conditions of success is that
the fish should be directly netted out of the river
into the cook's caldron.

" About the end of March, or early in April,
whitebait make their appearance in the Thames,
and are then small, apparently but just changed
from the albuminous state of the young fry. During
June, July, and August, immense quantities are
consumed by visitors to the different taverns at
Greenwich and Blackwall. Pennant says : ' White-
bait are esteemed very delicious when fried with

igS

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

fine flour, and occasion, during the season, a vast
resort of the loiver order of epicures to the taverns
contiguous to the places where they are taken.'
If this account be correct," adds Mr. Timbs, " there
must have been a strange change in the grade ot
epicures frequenting Greenwich and Blackwall
since Pennant's days ; for at present the fasliion
of eating whitebait is sanctioned by the highest
authorities, from the Court of St. James's in the

rather be regarded as a sort of prandial wind-up of
the Parliamentary session than as a specimen of
refined epicurism.

" We remember many changes in matters con-
cerning whitebait at Greenwich and Blackball.
Formerly, the taverns were mostly built with
weather-board fronts, with bow-windows, so as to
command a view of the river. The old 'Ship,'
and the ' Crown and Sceptre ' taverns at Greenwich

CROWN AND SCEPTRE INN, GREENWICH.

West, to the Lord Mayor and his Court in the
East; besides the philosophers of the Royal
Society, and Her Majesty's Cabinet Ministers.
Who, for example, does not recollect such a para-
graph as the following, which appeared in the
Mornini^ Post of the day on which Mr. Yarrell
wrote his account of whitebait, September lo,
1835 : ' Yesterday, the Cabinet Ministers went
down the river in the Ordnance barges to Love-
grove's " West India Dock Tavern," Blackwall, to
partake of their annual fish dinner. Covers were
laid for thirty-five gentlemen.' For our own part,
wc consider that the Ministers did not evince their
usual good policy in choosing so late a period as
September, tlie whitebait lieing finer eating in July
or August; so their 'annual fish dinner' must.

were built in this manner ; and some of the Black-
wall houses were of humble pretensions ; these
have disappeared, and handsome architectural jiiles
have been erected in their places. Meanwhile,
whitebait have been sent to the metropolis, 'oy
railway or steamer, where they figure in fishmongTs'
shops, and tavern cartes of almost every tlegree.

" Perhaps the famed delicacy of whitebait rests
as much upon its skilfiil cookery as upon the fresh-
ness of the fish. Dr. Pereira has published a mode
of cooking in one of Lovegrove's ' bait kitchens ' at
Blackwall. Tiie fisli should be dressed within an
liour after being caught, or they are apt to cling
together. They are kept in water, from which they
are taken by a sknnmer as re(iuircd ; they are then
thrown upon a layer of Hour, contained in a large

Greenwich.]

FEASTING AT GREENWICH.

199

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

napkin, in which they are shaken until completely
enveloped in flour ; they are then put into a
colander, and all the superfluous flour is removed
by sifting. The fish are next thrown into hot lard
contained in a copper caldron or stew-pan placed
over a charcoal fire. In about two minutes they
are removed by a tin skimmer, thrown into a
colander to drain, and served up instantly, by
placing them on a fish-drainer in a dish. The
rapidity of the cooking process is of the utmost
importance, and if it be not attended to, the fish
will lose their crispness, and be worthless. At
table, lemon-juice is squeezed over them, and they
are seasoned with cayenne pepper, brown bread-
and-butter is substituted for plain bread ; and they
are eaten with iced champagne or punch."

Every year the approach of the close of the
Parliamentary session is indicated by what is termed
the " Ministerial Fish Dinner," in which whitebait
forms a prominent dish, and Cabinet Ministers are
the company. The dinner takes place at one
of the principal taverns, usually at Greenwich, but
sometimes at Blackwall. The dining-room is deco-
rated for the occasion, which is of the nature of a
State entertainment. Formerly, it was customary
for the Ministers to go down the river from White-
hall in an Ordnance barge, ornamented with gold
and other colours, and with streamers ; now, how-
ever, a more prosaic steamer is employed. The
origin of the annual festivity is told by Mr. Timbs
in his work quoted above : — " On the banks of
Dagenham Lake or Reach, in Essex, many years
since, there stood a cottage occupied by a princely
merchant, named Preston, a baronet of Scotland
and Nova Scotia, and sometime M.P. for Dover.
He called it his ' fishing-cottage,' and often in the
spring he went thither, with a friend or two, as
a relief to the toils of his Parliamentary and mer-
cantile duties. His most frequent guest was the
Right Hon. George Rose, Secretary of the Treasury,
and an Elder Brother of the Trinity House. Many
a day did these two worthies enjoy at Dagenham
Reach ; and Mr. Rose once intimated to Sir Robert
that Mr. Pitt, of whose friendship they were both
justly proud, would no doubt delight in the comfort
of such a retreat. A day was named, and the
Premier was invited ; and he was so well pleased
with his reception at the ' fishing-cottage ' — they
were all two if not three-bottle men — that, on
taking leave, Mr. Pitt readily accepted an invita-
tion for the following year.

" ]'"or a few years, the Premier continued a
visitor to Dagenham, and was always accompanied
by Mr. George Rose, liut the distance was con-
siderable ; the going and coming were somewhat

inconvenient for the First Minister of the Crown.
Sir Robert Preston, however, had his remedy,
and he proposed that they should in future dine
nearer London. Greenwich was suggested : we do
not hear of whitebait in the Dagenham dinners,
and its introduction probably dates from the
removal to Greenwich. The party of three was
now increased to four, Mr. Pitt being permitted to
bring Lord Camden. Soon after, a fifth guest was
invited — Mr. Charles Long, afterwards Lord Fam-
borough. All were still the guests of Sir Robert
Preston ; and, one by one, other notables were in-
vited— all Tories — and, at last. Lord Camden con-
siderately remarked that, as they were all dining
at a tavern, it was but fair that Sir Robert Preston
should be relieved from the expense. It was
then an-anged that the dinner should be given as
usual by Sir Robert Preston — that is to say, at his
invitation — and he insisted on still contributing a
buck and champagne ; the rest of the charges were
thenceforth defrayed by the several guests ; and
on this plan, the meeting continued to take place
annually, till the death of Mr. Pitt.

" Sir Robert was requested, next year, to sum-
mon the several guests, the list of whom, by this
time, included most of the Cabinet Ministers. The
time for meeting was usually after Trinity Monday
— a short period before the end of the session. By
degrees, the meeting, which was originally purely
gastronomic, appears to have assumed, in conse-
quence of the long reign of the Tories, a political
or semi-political character. Sir Robert Preston
died ; but Mr. Long (now Lord Farnborough)
undertook to summon the several guests, the list
of whom was furnished by Sir Robert Preston's
private secretary. Hitherto, the invitations had
been sent privately ; now they were dispatched in
Cabinet bo.xes, and the party was, certainly, for
some time, limited to the members of the Cabinet.
A dinner lubricates Ministerial as well as other
business ; so that the ' Ministerial Fish Dinner '
may ' contribute to the grandeur and prosperity of
our beloved country.' "

From that day to the present the Ministerial
dinner has been an annual festival, except when
some sudden death has lately carried off a member
of the existing Cabinet. The dinner is usually held
a day or two before the prorogation of the Houses
of Parliament.

But some other statesmen, who have not been
Ministers of the Crown, have regaled themselves
here on whitebait. Samuel Rogers, for instance,
tells us that he once dined with Curran in the
public room of die chief inn at Greenwich, when
the Irish orator, as usual, began to indulge in his

Greenwich, ]

GREENWICH FAIR.

favourite exaggerations. " I had rather be hanged
on twenty gallows" — he began, when a stranger
sitting at the next table quietly asked, " Do you
not think, sir, that one would be enough ?" Curran
was, for once, fairly taken aback and struck dumb
at the witty retort.

But few dinners at Greenwich, perhaps, were
more jovial and pleasant than that which, in 1842,
celebrated the return of Charles Dickens from his
first visit to America. Talfourd, Milnes, Procter,
Maclise, Stanfield, Marryat, Barham, Hood, John
Forster, and George Cruikshank were there; and
a home tour into Cornwall was then and there
arranged between " Boz," Maclise, Stanfield, and
his future biographer — all now, alas ! no more. It
was at a dinner here — preceded by a drive over
Blackheath — that Dickens and Douglas Jerrold
met for the last time, just previous to the sudden
death of the latter, in 1856.

A great change has come over the inns and
taverns of half a century ago; they are now
"hotels," and grand ones too; the "Trafalgar"
still has its bow-windows fronting the river; but
of;the old "Ship" and the "Crown and Sceptre,"
their earlier and more attractive features have now
disappeared, giving way to architectural piles of
greater pretensions, and in which, therefore, the
cost of a dinner must be largely increased, in order
to pay the builder.

It is remarked by more than one writer, that
Greenwich is about the last place where the prac-
tice of " touting " for customers is kept up at the
doors of small coffee-houses ; but, perhaps, the well-
known cry of the butchers in the lesser streets on
Saturday evenings, " Come, buy ! buy ! what will
you buy ? " may be regarded as the last remnant of
a custom once nearly universal. Here you cannot
walk along the streets which lie between the town
and the park without being solicited by ten or a
dozen rival houses to step in and regale yourself
If you take every card that is offered you, you will
have a good store in your pocket on returning
home at night. " Tea, eightpence, with a pleasant
view of the river." " Tea made, with shrimps, nine-
pence," and so forth. The inhabitants of Green-
wich would seem to be the most accommodating
and hospitable people in the world. You can walk
straight into almost every other house along the
route and order tea, and can depart again only a
few pence the poorer. Numbers of cockneys, how-
ever, come to the park already well provided ; and
you may see pater and materfamilias and half a
dozen of their hopeful progeny all munching bread-
and-butter, and drinking cold tea, in one group
beneath the chestnuts.

For very many years, and down to a compara-
tively recent date (1857), there were two fairs held
annually in Greenwich — namely, on the Monday,
Tuesday, and Wednesday in Easter and Whitsun
weeks. They were formerly held in the road now
occupied partly by St. Mary's Church, and the
remainder by the Hospital Burial-ground ; latterly,
the fairs were held in the public thoroughfares,
principally in Bridge Street, which extends from
near the church of St. Alphege to the bridge over
the Ravensbourne at Deptford Creek. In an
account of Greenwich Fair, the " Kalendar of
Amusements" (1840) somewhat bombastically ob-
serves : " This great national event, which neither
desires nor deserves any colouring at our hands, is
one of those gaudy and glittering occasions which,
hke powerful magnets, attract all the base ore of
the metropolis. The objects of commiseration,
who have groaned through a long winter with
afflictions (stated in coloured chalks on the portion
of pavement they diurnally occupy), who, in the
Van Amburgh spirit, have taught a little dog to
implore and to accept contributions for them — the
absence of arms, tongues, eyes, legs, &c., in a
great measure preventing them officisAmg personally
— now, vigorous and volatile, spring nimbly on the
apex of the metropolitan mail, articulating ' Green-
wich, ho ! ' Now, the fervid children of Erin,
with a ' Horroo ! Faugh a ballagh ! ' (' Clear the
road;') enlarge themselves from the liberties of
little Hibemia, and turn their frontispieces towards
Greenwich. (Their less energetic brethren have
preceded them a week, that being the time they
annually consume in drinking their way down.)

" Now, from the cigar-divans in the Strand and
the Quadrant, fair count(er)esses may be observed
stepping into private carriages driven by private
gentlemen, who, dispensing with their slaves in
livery, and hoping the populace will mistake them
for 'those blackguard lords,' whirl through the
streets, as a Bristol Byron says, ' in all the majesty
of mud.' Now, upon the road may be seen stages-
and-four, coaches-and-two, and cabs-and-one with
cram licences — a term well known to the whipsters,
who upon this day, by superhuman exertions, prove
their right to the title. Here, like Atlas struggling
under a giddy world, a wretched donkey wags (we
use the next word advisedly) under a wagon, which
must have been erected to mock the efforts of a
troop of horse. Countless hands, armed with
countless missiles, stimulate the martyr in the rear,
whilst a child precedes him holding a wisp of hay
to his mouth. The bait has its effect : of the
posterior appHcations he appears happily uncon-
scious. But who and what are they that occupy

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

that vehicle ? Alas ! none but themselves know
who they are, or what they would be. The police
reports, it is true, afford some information, and that
of a nature perhaps to satisfy a moi-al curiosity.

" How shall we describe Greenwich ? Confusion
and consternation ! hilarity and horror ! Children
not visible, pocket-handkerchiefs not forthcoming
(distress for each equally evident). People here
full of frenzy, exclaiming, ' What imposition ! '
Others there, full of frolic, lisping out, ' ^^1lat fun ! '
Sirens insinuating, ' Tea and coffee ! tea and
coflfee ! ' and slaughterers shouting, ' One shilling
a head, sump-tu-ous dinners ! ' At night, the ' fair
and free ' assemble in the ' Crown and Anchor,'
' The Palladium of British Freedom,' ' The Thun-
derdox,' and ' The Roaring - Rattling - Rioters' '
booths, where the waltz is done strict justice to,
and the orchestra, assisted by the united exertions
of all present, absolutely intoxicates the ear. Out-
side, they revel also, the ' shilling considerers,' pre-
ferring a penny privilege, are swung up into the
face of heaven, and vice versa., in a machine very
like a gallows, which is put in motion by a fellow
very like an executioner. Others speculate in
porter and pudding, and laugh at the vanity of
human nature."

There was not, however, a goodlier day of merry-
making, for the regular traditional Monday-keepers,
passed in the neighbourhood of London, than at
Green-svich Fair. The Pool and the Port of
London are always objects of astonishment to a
foreigner ; but to see them on Whit Monday, or
at the commencement of a fine Easter-week, was
the most extraordinary sight he could meet with.
"The river below bridge," writes Mr. Albert
Smith, " presented a singularly animated scene.
Nearly all the vessels in the Pool hoisted their
flags, in compliment to the holiday — bands of
music, that only appeared competent to play ' Love
not' and 'Jeannette and Jeannot,' were stationed
at some of the wharfs, or on board the boats ; and
almost every minute a steamer passed, deep in the
water, by reason of her crowded freight of human
beings. It was only by extreme look-out that
numberiess accidents were avoided ; for the high-
way was covered with small boats as well, together
with ships being towed into dock, and heavy barges
always getting directly across the way, so that
sometimes a perfect stoppage of several minutes
was necessary. livery available corner of the
decks, cabins, and paddle-boxes of llie steamers
was occujjicd ; and more than two-tiiirds of the
voyagers were obliged to be content with standing-
room during the journey— which, under tlicse
circumstances, was not made very rapidly. In-

deed, we were but little under the hour going from
Swan Stairs to Greenwich Pier \ but everybody was
in thorough good temper with themselves and
everybody else, so that there was no grumbling at
the want of accommodation. They appeared only
too happy to get there at all, albeit all the way
the boats rolled and swayed until the water nearly
washed in at the cabin windows.

" The fair began directly you landed. From the
' Ship Torbay Tavern ' up to the park gates, the
road was bordered on either side with stalls, games,
and hand-wagons, containing goods or refresh-
ments of every description. Mr. Punch, too, set
up the temple of his illegitimate drama at three or
four points of the thoroughfare, at each of which
(in our belief that there is but one Punch, and
that he is ubiquitous) he was pursuing that reck-
less career of vice and dissipation with which his
audience are always so delighted. Snuff-boxes to
throw at — refreshments of singularly untempting
appearance, which nevertheless found eager pur-
chasers— vendors of spring rattles, who ensured 'the
whole fun o' the fair for a penny ' — speculators in
heavy stocks of Waterloo crackers and detonating
balls — proprietors of small percussion guns, to
shoot with at targets for nuts — kept increasing,
together with the visitors, as we neared the park ;
until the diminished breadth of the street brought
them all together in one struggle to get through
the gates, like the grains of sand in an egg-glass.
. . . The ' fair,' properly so called, was a long
narrow thoroughfare of stalls, booths, and shows,
in a lane leading from the town to the bridge at
Deptford Creek. Perhaps this was the least at-
tractive part of the day's amusement. The crowd
was so dense and disorderly as to threaten each
minute the erection of barricades of ' brandy-snaps,'
and the overthrow and deposition of the gilt ginger,
bread kings ranged on each side. More refresh,
ment stalls bordered the way — wonderfully unin-
viting shell-fisli, of shapes you had never before
encountered — mysterious effervescing drinks, like
dirty soapsuds and carbonic acid mixed together —
eels in different states of cookery, Dickled, stewed,
and in pies — strangely indigestible lumps of pud-
ding, studded at uncertain intervals with black
lumps, presumed to be plums — masses of cold fried
fish, liberally peppered with dust ; and dreadful
oysters as large as soup-plates — oysters in June !
But all were doing good business, and rapidly dis-
posing of their stock.

"The shows, possibly, were our greatest delight,
for we love to be harmlessly imposed upon at these
wandering cxliibitions. The last time we were at
Greenwich Fair we saw one held in a dismantled

i

Greenwich.!

A MODERN PANDEMONIUM.

203

dwelling-house, where various forms in wax-work,
of the true Mrs. Jarley breed, were set up for in-
spection. In the recess of a window were placed
two figures, evidently intended, originally, for Amy
Robsart and the Earl of Leicester, but which repre-
sented, we were now told. Queen Victoria and
Prince Albert, enjoying the retirement of private
life, apart from the pomp of royalty. Why they
should have chosen to enjoy retirement in fancy
dresses of the Elizabethan period, those best ac-
quainted with the habits of those august personages
can possibly inform us. All the characters of the
exhibition were, however, old friends. We fancied
that we once knew them in High Holborn, where
the organ turned at the door, and the monkey sat
on the hot gas-pipe. At all events, if they were
not the identical ones, the artist had cast two in
the same mould whilst he was about it. We do
not think he had been happy in the likenesses.
Sir Robert Peel was, unmistakably, Mr. Buck-
stone grown a foot taller, and wearing a light
flaxen wig. Lady Sale v/e once knew as Queen
Adelaide; and Oxford had transmigrated into
Wicks, the eyes having been manifestly wrenched
violently round to form the squint of the latter
miserable culprit. In one point the artist had
excelled nature. He had preserved the apparent
dryness and coolness of the skin, whilst the folks
looking on were melting with the heat.

" In another show were some learned birds.
This was also held in an unfinished house. A
curtain nailed to the rafters divided the rude in-
terior into two parts ; by pushing it aside we saw
a flock-bed upon the ground, a mouldering fire,
and a tin saucepan : a thin, unhappy dog was
persuading himself that he was asleep on the bed.
In front of the penetralia was a dirty breeding-cage,
in which five or six poor little ragged canaries were
sitting on a perch, huddled up together as if for
better self-defence. A man came to the front and
said, ' Stand back, gents, and then all can see — the
canaries, the performing canaries, brought from the
Canary Islands for the Queen.' The birds were
then taken out, and had to pull carts and draw
water, sit on the end of a trumpet whilst it was
played, and fire cannon ; the explosion of the gun-
powder throwing them into a state of tumbling,
chuffing, and sneezing, from which they did not
recover by the conclusion of the entertainment.

" As soon as it was dusk, the crowd in the fair
thickened ; and its sole object appeared to be to
push a way violently through everything to the
extreme end, and then return again in the same
manner. In the town every tavern and public-
house was filled to overflowing with hungry, or

rather thirsty, occupants ; the clouds of tobacco-
smoke from the open windows proving the crowded
state of the apartments. The steamboats had
now ceased to ply, but the trains on the railway
continued until a late hour. If you returned to
town by the latter method of conveyance, you met
hundreds more proceeding to Greenwich, even at
very advanced periods of the evening. Where they
got to when they arrived, how they contrived to
return home again when the fair closed, is beyond
conjecture. Those, however, who went simply to
look on were not sorry, by this time, to get clear
of the increasing riot and confusion, to which, on
arriving once more in London, the bustle of Cheap-
side appeared almost seclusion and tranquillity."

The fag-end, as we may call it, of the fair was
almost always noisy and disreputable. It is thus
described by Mr. J. R. Planche, in his " Recol-
lections," as it appeared to him and a French
friend, his fellow-traveller, on his return from
Paris in 1820: — "It was broad daylight by the
time we reached the junction of the Greenwich
and Old Kent Roads, and a sight suddenly pre-
sented itself to the eyes of our visitor which
astonished, interested, and amused him to the
greatest extent. On each side of the road, four or
five deep, a line of human beings extended as far
as the eye could reach : men and women, boys and
girls, the majority of the adults of both sexes in
every possible stage of intoxication, yelling, scream-
ing, dancing, fighting, playing every conceivable
antic, and making every inconceivable noise. For
the instant I was almost as much surprised as
my companion, and as little able to account for
the extraordinary and unexpected scene ; but after
a few minutes I recollected it was the morning of
the Wednesday in Easter week, and the end of
Greenwich Fair, and these dregs of the London
populace, which had for three days made the
pretty Kentish borough a bear-garden, and its fine
old park a pandemonium, were now flowing in a
turbid flood of filth, rags, debauchery, and drunken-
ness, back to their sources in the slums of the
metropolis. There was no picturesque costume to
fascinate the eye of the artist, no towering cauckoise
with its frills and streamers, no snow-white caps,
short scarlet petticoats, and blue stockings, no
embroidered velvet bodices, no quaint gold or
silver head-gear, no jacket gay with countless but-
tons, no hat bedecked with ribbons, no coquettish
Montero; all was dirt and squalor, draggled
dresses, broken bonnets, hats without crowns,
coats and trousers in tatters. Such was the
British public as it first appeared to 'the great
French comedian.' "

204

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

A writer in the Somerset House Gazette and
Literary Musaim, in 1824, could complain, and
apparently with some show of truth, that even in
his time Greenwich merry-making was but the
ghost of what it had been. He bewails the utter

attired in suits of gold leaf; to swallow one of the
doughty heroes would have been to realise the fate
of Crassus. Next succeeded the legerdemain and
' rowly-powly ' gentry ; the mermaids and mounte-
banks, and wonders of every class, from a penny to

LANE LEADI.N ; I \ 1, . SHIP STREET, GREENWICH (1830).

absence of that "joyous vulgarity, that freedom,
fun, and variety," which had been its boast and
attraction ; but " still," he adds, by way of com-
pensation, " there was a tolerable display, a sickly
smile of gaiety about the place. I passed through
a formidable array of gingerbread soldiers, drawn
up in front of a boolli, as if for the protection of
the watches, horses, turkey-cocks, old ladies, and
gridirons, wiiich were ranged behind. The uniform
of the military was very imposing ; they were

sixpence, wliich showed that the fair had not alto-
gether declined from its ancient character. To
quote the old ballad about another fair —

' In houses of boards men w-ilU upon cords
As easic as squirrels crack filbei'ds ;
And the cut-purses they do liile and away,
Rut these we suppose to be ill-birds.

' For a penny you may see a fine puppet-play,
And for two pence a rare piece of art ;
And a penny a cann, I dare swe.ir a man
May put six of them into a quart.

Greenwich.]

"BOZ'S" MEMORIES OF GREENWICH FAIR.

205

' Their sights are so rich they are able to bewitch
The heart of a very fine man-a ;
Here's patient Grizel here, fair Rosamunda there.
And the history of Susannah.'

The literary part of the amusements," he continues,
" was sadly neglected. In vain did learned dogs
boast of their erudition, or dandy-pigs shuffle the
cards and play dominoes. . . . The showman
of one of these estabhshments, sadly mortified,
paraded in front of his booth ; by turns he listened

and Foker dine at Greenwich, and Blanche cries
out, " I adore Richmond, that I do ; and I adore
Greenwich, and I say I should like to go there.''
It will be remembered that the major, being an
old soldier, allowed the young men to pay for the
dinner between them.

Charles Dickens devotes one of his " Sketches
by Boz " to a description of the cockneys making
a holiday on Easter Monday at Greenwich Fair,
describing, in his usual graphic style, the frolics

VIEW FROM ONE-TREE HILL, GREENWICH PARK, IN 1S46 (A 207).

to the chattering of his monkey and the grunting
of the youthful porkers." He then records a row
and its issue, a general melee ; and adds, in con-
clusion, " I had seen quite enough of the fair, and
was soon on my way back from Greenwich."

Reference is made to the fair in Thackeray's
"Sketches and Travels in London," where Mr.
Brown says threateningly to his nephew, " If ever
I hear of you as a casino-liunter, or as a frequenter
of races and Greenwich fairs, and such amusements
in questionable company, I give you my honour
you shall benefit by no legacy of mine, and I will
divide the portion that was (and is, I hope) to be
yours among your sisters." The fair figures also
in his " Pendennis," where the major. Sir Francis,
258

and dangers of the road thither, the jostling of
the crowds of fathers, mothers, apprentices and
their sweethearts playing at "Kiss in the ring"
or " Thread the needle," and dining and supping,
and smoking al fresco, and crowding into Richard-
son's show, the dancing-booths, and the wild beast
caravans, from noon-day till long past the hour
of midnight. He writes, " If the parks be the
lungs of London, we wonder what Greenwich Fair
is — a periodical breaking-out, we suppose; a sort
of spring rash ; a three days' fever, which cools the
blood for si.K months afterwards, and at the expira-
tion of which London is restored to its old habit of
plodding industry as suddenly and as completely
as if nothing had ever occurred to disturb them."

206

OLD AND NEW LOND0>J.

{(Jrecnwich.

CHAPTER XVI.
GREENWICH {conii>wa/).—'rUE PARK, THE ROYAL OBSERVATORY, &c.

" Heavens ! what a goodly prospect spreads around
Of hills, and dales, and woods, and lawns, and spires,
Ajid glittering towns, and gilded streams, till all
The stretching landscape into smoke decays." — Tliouison.

May-day Morning in the Reign of Henry VIII. —Historical Reminiscences— The Planting of the Park by Order of Charles II.— Castle Hill—
Descriotion of the Park — One-Tree Hill — Proposed Monumental Trophy in honour of the Battle of Trafalgar on Castle Hill — The View from
One- Tree Hill— Greenwich Park at Fair-time — The Wilderness — The Ranger's Lodge — The Princess Sophia of Gloucester a Resident at
Montagu House — Chesterfield Walk — The Residence of General Wolfe — .-Vncient Barrows or Tumuli — Greenwich Observatory — Appointment
of John Flamsteed as First Astronomer-Royal — Flamsteed and Sir Isaac Newton — Dr. Halley — Dr. Bradley— Dr. Blis.s — Dr. Maskelyne —
The " Nautical -Almanack" — Mr. John Pond — Sir George Biddell Airy — Description of the Observatory and of the Instruments in Use —
The Magnetic Observatory — The Galvanic Clock — Work accomplished at the Observatory*.

in the centre gazed, like a tiger, out of the frame
upon his prey. On this hill, again, Cardinal
Wolsey may have meditated, ' with all his blushing
honours thick upon him.' Katharine, the broken-
hearted queen, may here have reined-in her palfrey,
or from this aged hawthorn have torn off a sprig,
when fragrant and white with may-blossom, as now,
and have presented it \vith a smile to the royal
savage who rode beside her. On yonder plain,
where so many happy faces are now seen, in former
days the tournament was held. There gaudy gal-
leries were erected, over which youth and beauty
leant as they waved their embroidered scarves.
We can almost fancy that we can see the cro\vned
tiger smile as he closes the visor of his helmet,
bowing his plume while he recognises some fair
face which was soon to fall on the scaffold, with

its long tresses dabbled in blood In

this park the crafty Cecil mused, iloubtless, for
many an hour, as he plotted the return of the
Princess Mary, while the ink was scarcely dry in
which he had recorded his allegiance to the Lady
Jane Grey. In fact, the whole scenery of the park
teems with the remembrance of old stirring events
and grave historical associations. Hal, the royal
murderer, comes straddling and blowing up the
hill ; the pale and sickly boy-king rides gently by,
and breathes heavily as he inhales the sweet air on
the summit ; the titter and merry laugh of the ill-
stiiTcd queens seems to fail upon the ear from
behind the trees that conceal them. And then
we have voices of mourning and loud lament from
fair attendants, who refuse to be comforted, for
tliose whom they loved and served are there no
more." Tliis, we may add, is a very pretty and
poetical picture, but none the less true for all tliat.
This park is the same as that jireviously men-
tioned* as having been enclosed by Humphrey,
Duke of Gloucester, in 1433, by licence of King
Henry VI. It contains nearly 200 acres, and was

It was, no doubt, the peculiar charm of this un-
rivalled prospect that made Greenwich for so many
ages the favourite seat of our Tudor monarchs, to
whose purposes it was excellently adapted, both
for its vicinity to the metropolis and its command-
ing situation. But far different must have been
the scene when (we are told) Henry VIII., in the
seventh year of his reign, on a fine May-day morn-
ing, with Queen Katharine his wife, accompanied
also by many lords and ladies, rode a-Maying from
Greenwich to the high ground of Shooter's Hill,
where, as they passed by the way, they espied a
company of tall yeomen all in green, with hoods,
and with bows and arrows, to the number of two
hundred. Since that day, alterations have taken
place which must astonish even the last generation,
large tracts of land, which then were either market-
gardens or pastures for cattle, being now converted
into docks or built over as streets.

" Let us pause," writes Mr. T. Miller, in his
" Picturesque Sketches of London," " on the brow
of this hill, and recall a few of the scenes which
these aged hawthorns have looked ujjon. They
are the ancient foresters of the chase, and many of
them have stood here through the wintry storms of
past centuries, and were gnarled, and knotted, and
stricken with age, long before Evelyn planned and
planted those noble rows of chestnuts and elms.
Below, between the plain at the foot of the hill
and the river, stood the old palace of Greenwich,
in which Henry VIII. held his revels, and where
Edward VI., the boy-king, breathed his last. That
ancient jjalace was, no doubt, rich witli the spoils
of many a plundered abbey and ruined monastery
— in vessels of gold and silver which liad once been
dedicated to holy purposes, but were then red with
the dregs of the wine shed at many a midnight
revel by the ' Defender of the Faith ' — the woman-
murdering monarch. Perhaps," he suggests, with a
vein of dry humour, " tjic walls of tliat old palace
were hung with llie portraits of tlic wives whom he
had caused to be beheaded, wjiilst liis own likeness

" See a»te, p. tCs.

Greenwich.]

ONE-TREE HILL.

:07

walled round by James I. Here, as in Kensington
Gardens, we find the umbrageous trees that were
planted by Gilpin and Le Notre, and the gardeners
of William HL It was chiefly laid out by Le
Notre, about the same time as St. James's Park, by
order of Charles II., who, it is recorded, watclied
with great eagerness the work of laying out this
park. As early as the spring of 1662, Pepys re-
cords that, "The king hath planted trees and made
steps in the hill up to the castle, which is very
magnificent." The "castle" here referred to was
a tower erected by Duke Humphrey, on the site
now occupied by the Observatory. Traces of Le
Notre's " steps " or terraces are still observable in
the hill-side leading to it. Castle Hill, it would
seem, was at one time used as a " butt " or target
for military practice ; at all events, Evelyn, in his
" Diary," under date of June i, 1667, writes : " I
went to Greenewich, where his Majesty was trying
divers granados shot out of cannon at the Castle
Hill from the house in the park ; they brake not
till they hit the mark ; the forg'd ones brake not at
all, but the cast ones very well. The inventor was
a German." Of the time when the chief avenues
were planted we get the exact date from the fol-
lowing entry in Evelyn's " Diary," where, under
date of March 4, 1664, he writes : " This Spring I
planted the Home-field and West-field about Saye's
Court with elmes, being the same yeare that the
elmes were planted by his Majesty in Greenewich
Park." Now, however, except in the remains of
some of the avenues, there are not very strong
traces of the stiff and formal style of Le Notre left,
as it is not on a beautifully-varied surface like this
that straight walks and regular lines of trees are at
all tolerable. The natural advantages of this park
are certainly superior to those of any in the imme-
diate vicinity of the metropolis. "The ground
itself," says the author of " Bohn's Pictorial Hand-
book of London," " is undulated with great variety,
sometimes being thrown up into the softest swells,
and in other places assuming a bolder and more
sudden elevation. Around the site of the Obser-
vatory it is particularly steep, and attains a con-
siderable height. Everywhere, too, it is studded
with noble specimens of ancient trees ; and in this
respect there are none of the other London parks
at all equal to it. Some of the best trees are
Spanish chestnuts, and the largest are on the south
side. Many of these are truly fine and venerable,
and would command admiration even if found in
the heart of a purely rural district. The elms,
which are abundant, are likewise large and noble ;
and there are some picturesque Scotch firs in the
neighbourhood of the Observatory. These last are

old enough to show the peculiar warm reddish
colouring of the stems, and the characteristic hori-
zontal or tufted heads. In this state, the Scotch
fir is certainly one of the most picturesque trees
we possess, and is the more valuable because
each individual plant commonly takes a shape and
character of its own. The avenues still remaining
in Greenwich Park are composed chiefly of elm and
Spanish chestnut, the latter being mostly confined
to the upper part of the park. They are of dif-
ferent widths, and take various directions, many
of them not appearing to have any definite object,
and some being formed of two single rows, others
of two double rows of trees. But there is one
avenue — perhaps the finest — which, widening out at
the base to correspond with the width of the hos-
pital, is there composed of elms, but as it ascends
the hill is made up wholly of Scotch firs, which
are exceedingly good. In a general way, the
trees in the avenues have been planted much too
thickly, and have greatly injured or spoiled each
other. In many instances, too, where plants have
died out, they have been replaced by a most
unhappy mixture of sorts, which, being also very
poor specimens, detract much from the effect. At
the upper part of the park are some aged and
fine thorns, which have become very picturesque."
The chestnuts in Blackheath Avenue have passed
maturity, and every year seems to be telling on
their strength. Many of them have magnificent
trunks, and a few of them exceed eighteen feet in
girth ; some of the chestnuts, too, have attained a
noble growth. The oaks are comparatively few,
but among them are some of the largest trees in
the park. The whole extent of the park is greatly
varied in surface, and hence its great charm. As
Mr. James Thome, in his " Environs of London,"
remarks, " Everywhere the scenery is different, and
everywhere beautiful ; while from the high and
broken ground by the Observatory and One-Tree
Hill the distant views of London and the Thames,
with its shipping, are matchless of beauty and
interest. The park," he continues, "is the most
popular of our open-air places of resort, and on a
fine holiday is really a remarkable spectacle. It
says something for the conduct of the crowds who
resort hither, that the deer, of which there is a
large number in the park, are so tame and fearless,
that they will not only feed from visitors' hands,
but even steal cakes from unwary children."

" One Tree Hill " — that particular spot rendered
famous by George Cruikshank, in his "Comic
Almanack," in the familiar lines —

" Then won't I have a precious laik

Do\™ One Tree Hill in Greenwich Park ! "

2oS

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

is SO called from there having been but one tree
on its summit ; this tree, however, has long been
greatly decayed, and six others were, some years
ago, planted near it. It was in former times called
" Five-tree Hill."

About the year iSi6 it was proposed to raise a
monumental trophy, in honour of the battle of
Trafalgar, on the summit of Castle Hill, near the
Observatory, but the project was relinquished for
want of sufficient funds. This trophy was intended
to have been elevated to a height of about 200
feet, and, had it been carried into eflect, would
have been a landmark to vessels on the river, and
a conspicuous object to the country for miles
around. On the brow of the hill, in the park, and
about the front of the Observatory, you would see,
till very recently, the old pensioners with their tele-
scopes and glasses of every colour. Some of these
heroes, who had served under Jervis and Nelson,
had lost a leg or an arm, or possibly both ; and yet
they went about the park with their " baccy " as
happy, to all appearance at least, as the credulous
cockneys whom they delighted to cram with all
sorts of improbable yams about battles fought by
"flood or field," in which they shot their cannon-
balls to the very longest of all possible ranges.
This hill was a favourite place, not only for the
Greenwich pensioners, but for gipsies and fortune-
tellers.

" The park," \vrites the ingenious Arthur Young,
in a somewhat poetic strain, " is well stocked
with deer, and affords as much variety in propor-
tion to its size as any in the kingdom ; but the
views from the Observatory and One-Tree Hill
are beautiful beyond imagination. . . . The
projection of these hills is so bold that you do not
look down upon a gradually falling slope, but at
once upon the tops of branching trees, which grow
in knots and clumps out of dead hollows and em-
browning dells. The cattle which feed on the
lawns, and ap])ear in the breaks among them, seem
to move in a region of fairy-land. A thousand
natural openings among the branches of the trees
break upon little picturesque views of the swelling
turf, which, when lit up by the sun, have an effect
pleasing beyond the power of fancy to exhibit.
This is the foreground of the landscape ; a little
further the eye falls upon that noble structure,
the hospital, in the midst of an amphitheatre of
wood ; then the two reaches in the river make that
beautiful serpentine which forms the Isle of Dogs.
. . . To the left appears a fine (?) tract of
country, leading up to the capital itself, which tlicrc
finishes the prospect."

The same view is thus described by 'I'homas

Miller, in his work above quoted : — " Beautiful as
is Greenwich Park within itself, with its long aisles
of overhanging chestnuts, through whose branches
the sunlight streams, and throws upon the velvet
turf rich chequered rays of green and gold, yet it
is the vast view which stretches out on every hand
that gives its chief charm to the spot. What a
glorious prospect opens out from the summit of
' One-Tree Hill ! ' London, mighty and magnifi-
cent, piercing the sky with its high-piled towers,
spires, and columns ; while St Paul's, like a mighty
giant, heaves up his rounded shoulders as if keep-
ing guard over the outstretched city. Far away
the broad bright river Thames rolls along till lost
in the dim green of the fading distance, whilst its
course is still pointed out by the spreading sail.
Along this ancient road of the swans vessels ap-
proach from every corner of the habitable globe
to empty their riches into the great reservoir of
London, whence they are again sent through a
thousand channels to the remotest homes in her
islands and her colonies."

We have already mentioned that this park wab
a favourite lounge for Dr. Johnson during the time
he was lodging in Greenwich. " We walked in the
evening in Greenwich Park," writes Boswell. " He
asked me, I suppose by way of trying my dispo-
sition, ' Is not this very fine ? ' Having no exqui-
site relish of the beauties of nature, and being
more delighted with ' the busy hum of men,' I
answered, ' Yes, sir ; but not equal to Fleet Street.'
Johnsoji : ' You are right, sir.' "

Greenwich Park, particularly at fair time, was the
scene of every variety of joyous hilarity, from " Kiss
in the ring," " Drop the handkerchief," and other
games, to the e.xciting rush and tumble down the
hill. The frolic and mirth everywhere visible here
on these occasions is well described in the following
" Ballad Singer's Apology for (jreenwich Fair," in
" Merrie England in the Olden Time : " —

" Up liill .iiid down Iiill, 'tis .ilways the same ;
M.inkin<l ever grumbling, and fortune to Ijlame !
To fortune, 'ti.s upliill, ambition, and strife ;
And fortune obtain'd, then tlie downhill of life !

" We toil up the hill till we reach to the top ;
But are not permitted one moment to .stop!
Oh, how much more quick we descend than we climb !
There '.s no locking fast the swift wheels of Old Time!

" Gay Greenwich ! thy happy young holiday train

Here roll down the hill and then mount it again.

The ups and downs life has bring sorrow .and care;

But frolic and mirth attend those at the fair.
" My Lord May'r of London of high City lineage "

His shoiv makes us glad, with, and wliy shouldn't Green-
wich ?

His gingerbread coach a crack figure it cuts!

And why .shouldn't we crack our gingerbread nuts?

Greenwlcli.]

ALBERT SMITH AT GREENWICH FAIR.

209

•• Of fashion and fame, ye grandiloquent powers,
I'ray take your full swing, only let us take out's!
If you have grown graver and wiser, messieurs.
The gi'inning lie our's and the gravity your's I

" To keep one bright spark of good humour alive,
Old holiday pastimes and sports we revive.
Be merry, my masters, for now is your time —
Come, who'll buy my ballads? they're reason and rhyme."

Groups of nurserymaids and children are familiar
features in the modern aspect of Greenwich Park.
The latter flit, climb, and leap over every broken
liillock, slide into every green dell, swing, toss, and
tumble round and upon each sinewy tree, as if
they were the legitimate possessors of the park,
and lived entirely upon gingerbread, oranges, nuts,
and lemonade — viands which, it seems proper to
believe, are indispensable to the real enjoyment of
these shady avenues.

In Albert Smith's description of Greenwich Fair,
from which we have quoted largely in the preceding
chapter, part of the scene is laid in the park. " It
was a great relief to exchange the dust and jostling
of the streets," he writes, " for the greensward and
wide area of the park, albeit the grass was, in
some places, perfectly shuffled away by the count-
less feet that passed over it in the course of the
day. Observatory Hill was the chief point of
attraction, and here the great mass of the people
was collected. Nothing could be more animated
or mirth-inspiring than the coup (tail from the
summit of this rise. The myriads of visitors all
in their gayest dresses, for the humblest amongst
them had mounted something new, be [were] it only
a ribbon, in compliment to the holiday — the per-
petual motion of the different groups and their
various occupations — the continuation of the bustle
to the river, seen beyond the hospital, covered with
ships and steamboats as far as the eye could reach
— and above all, the clear bright light shed over
the entire panorama, except where the cloudy
smoke of London hung on the horizon — altogether
formed a moving picture of life and festivity only
to be witnessed at Greenwich. The maimed and
weather-beaten forms of the old pensioners offered
odd contrasts to the lively active groups on every
side. But even they were keeping holiday. Some
of them, it is true, would have found it a task of
no small difficulty to climb up the hill, or run down
it, with the alacrity or headlong velocity of the
younger visitors ; so they contented themselves
with sitting down upon the smooth turf to watch
the others, or entertaining attentive listeners with
their accounts of former engagements, in descrip-
tions which depended more or less upon the fer-
tihty of their imaginations, but so ingeniously
&amed that they usually were contrived to end in

an eleemosynary appeal to the generosity of the
' noble captain ' or other complimentary officer
who listened to them. The other chief entertain-
ments on the Observatory Hill consisted in running
down with helter-skelter rapidity, or scrambling
oranges and apples amongst the boys on its de-
clivity, which fruits were liberally showered forth
by the more wealthy visitors on the summit. Fre-
quently, an unwary damsel, crossing the slope, was
entrapped by a handkerchief extended between
two swift-footed swains, and compelled to finish
her journey down the hill in much quicker time
than she intended. And then what struggling
there was — what exclamations of ' Ha' done, then !'
and ' Be quiet, now ! ' until there was no breath
left to give utterance to these remonstrances, and
the victim was hurried to the foot of the steep
between her two reckless persecutors, fortunate if
she arrived at the foot without any downfall. For
such accidents were of common occurrence, and
roars of laughter arose from the crowds on either
side when any luckless wight overran himself, and
saluted the turf in consequence."

" If Easter Monday draws up the curtain of our
popular merriments," writes the author of " Merrie
England in the Olden Time," "Whit Monday,
not a whit less merry, trumpets their continua-
tion. We hail the return of these festive seasons
when the busy inhabitants of Lud's town and its
suburbs, in spite of hard times, tithes, and taxes,
repair to the royal park of Queen Bess to divert
their melancholy. We delight to contemplate
the mirthful mourners in their endless variety of
character and costume ; to behold the festive holi-
day-makers hurrying to the jocund scenes, in order
to share in those pleasiu-es which the Genius of
wakes, so kind and bounteous, prepares for her
votaries. The gods themselves assembled on
Olympus presented not a more glorious sight than
the laughing divinities of 'One-Tree Hill.' What an
animated scene ! Hark to the loud laugh of some
youngsters that have had their roll and tumble.
Yonder is a wedding party from the neighbouring
village of Charlton or Eltham. See the jolly tar
with his true-blue jacket and trousers, checked
shirt, radiant with a gilt brooch as big as a crown-
piece, yellow straw hat, striped stockings, and
pumps, and his pretty bride, with her rosy cheeks
and white favours. How light are their heels and
their hearts too ! And the blithesome couples
that follow in their train, novices in the Temple
of Hymen, but who will, ere long, be called upon
to act as principals ! All is congratulation, good
wishes, and good humour. Scandal is dumb ;
envy dies for the day; disappointment gathers

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

hope ; and one wedding — like a fool, or an Irish '
wake — shall make many."

About June the park may be seen in all its
bloom and beauty — the fine old hawthorns are
then still in fuU blossom, and the hundreds of
gigantic elms and chestnuts are hung in their richest
array of summer green, whilst here and there the
deer cross and re-cross the shady avenues, or,
crouching amid what is called the "wilderness,"

Chesterfield House, and his connection with it is
still kept in remembrance by the name of "Chester-
field Walk," which has been given to the shady
pathway running along under the park wall from
the top of Groom's Hill. In 1807 the house
became the residence of the Duchess of Brunswick,
sister of George III., and was thereupon called
Brunswick House. The duchess came hither in
consequence of her daughter, Caroline, Princess of

VlhW IM GKliliMVVlCil I'AKK.

lie half buried in the fan-like fern. The hill and
the plain below, and, in fact, the whole greensward
round, are clothed in their holiday attire, the female
part of the community lighting up the scene by the
varied hues of their dress. At every few yards you
meet with a new group of pleasure-seekers, whilst
the long avenue which leads up to I'lackheath is
one continuous stream of merry-looking people.

On the south-west side of the ])ark, and ficing
Blackhcath, stands the Ranger's Lodge, a brick-
built mansion, formerly the residence of Philip,
Earl of Chesterfield, who purchased it about the
middle of the last century, and considerably en-
larged and improved it. In his " Letters " tlie
earl calls it " liabiolc " and afterwards " La Petite
Chartreuse ; " but it was commonly known as

Wales, having had the adjoining mansion, Montagu
House, assigned her as a residence when appointed
Ranger of Greenwich Park, in the year 1806. On
her death the house was purchased by the Crown,
and appropriated as the residence of the Ranger.
Here the Princess Sophia resided from 1816 till
her death. In more recent times it was the resi-
dence of Prince Arthur, now Duke of Connaught,
whilst studying for the Engineers.

Montagu House, which stood immediately to
the south of tjie Ranger's Lodge, owed its name
to having belonged to the Duke of Montagu, who
bought it in 1714. Whilst it was the residence of
the Princess of Wales, the grounds attached to it
were enlarged by enclosing a portion of the jjark,
called the " Little Wilderness." This now forma

Grccir.vicli.l

THE RANGER'S LODGE.

^- Ranger's House.

HOUSES ROUND GREEIfWICH PARK
=, Woodlands, 1804, 3. Lady Hamilton's House. 4. OKI Tree in Greenwich Park.

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

a part of the Ranger's Lodge. Montagu House
was pulled down in 1815, but the name is pre-
served in Montagu Corner, at the end of Chester-
field Walk. At the junction of Chesterfield Walk
and Groom's Hill is a large mansion, once the seat
of General Wolfe, and the occasional residence of
his son, the hero of Quebec, whose remains were
brought hither before they were buried in Green-
wich Church. The house was afterwards the
residence of Lord Lyttelton.

On the south-west side of the park, above the
summit of the hill, and in the rear of the house
above mentioned, are several barrows, or tumuli,
which, it has been conjectured, may ha\e been the
burial-places of the Danes during their encamp-
ment on Blackheath. Some of them were opened
towards the end of the last century, when there
were discovered in them spear-heads, human bones
and hair, knives, fragments of woollen cloth, and
other articles.

It is time now that we made our way once more
to the summit of the hill whereon stands the Ob-
servatory, a spot which Tickell calls —

" That fair hill where hoary sages boast
To name the stars and count the heavenly host."

The Observatory, as we have mentioned above,*
occupies the site of the tower, commonly called
" Greenwich Castle," which was built by Duke
Htimphrey. This tower was repaired, in 1526, by
Henry VHL, and was used sometimes as a habi-
tation for the younger branches of the royal family,
sometimes as a prison, occasionally as a place of
defence, and at other times as a residence for a
favourite mistress. "The king" (Henry VHI.),
writes Puttenham, in his " Art of English Poesy,"
"having Flamock with him in his barge, going
from Westminster to Greenwich, to visit a fayre
lady whom the king loved, who was lodged in the
tower in the park ; the king coming within sight of
the tower, and being disposed to be merrie, said,
' Flamock, let us run.' " We do not know what was
the result of the king's running, or what was its
immediate object. In 14S2, Mary of York, fifth
daugluer of Edward IV., died in this tower. In
the reign of Queen Elizabeth it was called " Mire-
fleur," and the Earl of Leicester was confined in it,
when he had incurred the Queen's displeasure by
marrying the Countess of Esse.\. Henry Howard,
l'',arl of Nortliam))ton, Lord Privy Seal, and the
founder of Norfolk College.t in East Greenwich,
had a grant of tliis lower from James I. ; he is said,
to have enlarged and beautified the building, and
to have made it his principal residence. In 1633,

* Sec antft p. 1O5,

t Sec aKttt p. 196.

Elizabeth, Countess of Suflblk, died here. Tea
years later, being then called "Greenwich Castle,"
it was considered of so much importance as a place
of defence, that the Parliament took immediate
measures to secure it against the King.

After the Restoration, M. de St. Pierre, a French-
man, who came to London about the year 1675,
having applied to King Chailes II. to be rewarded
for his discovery of a method of finding the longi-
tude by the moon's distance from a star, a com-
mission was appointed to investigate his preten-
sions. Lord Brouncker, President of the then
young Royal Society, Sir Christopher ^\'ren, the
Surveyor-General, and City architect — for nearly
half London was then in ruins — Sir Jonas Moore,
Master of Ordnance, and many other " ingenious
gentlemen " about the town and court, composed
the board, " with power to add to their number,"
which pon'er they exercised by the addition of a
certain Mr. John P"lamsteed, who was introduced
by Sir Jonas Moore, and whose name, from that
day to this, has been associated with this hill.

Flamsteed, who was born at Denby, Derbyshire,
in 1646, had already distinguished himself as an
astronomer; for, previous to the erection of this
Observatory, he had made sundry observations of
the heavenly bodies in a turret of the building
called the " White Tower," in the Tower of
London, which turret is still called the " Obser-
vatory." On hearing the Frenchman's proposals,
Flamsteed at once pointed out their impractica-
bihty, in consequence of the imperfect state of
the tables representing the motions of the moon,
and the inaccuracies of the existing catalogues of
the fixed stars. He likewise set to work on some
observations of his own, which at once frustrated
the schemes of St. Pierre, who was no more heard
of. The commissioners thereupon communicated
the results of Flamsteed's observations to the king ;
" his Majesty is startled by the assertion that the
stars' places are erroneously known, and exclaims,
with his childish vehemence, that 'he nmst have
them anew observed, examined, and corrected for
the use of his seamen.' The king is then told how
necessary it is to have a good stock of observations
of the moon and planets, and he exclaims that ' he
must have it done ; ' and when he is asked who
could or who should do it, he replies, ' The person
who informs you of tliem.' " Sir Jonas Moore
accordingly conveys to the young astronomer the
royal warrant appointing him " Our Astronomical
Obscrvator," and enjoining him " forthwith to apply
himself will) llie utmost care and diligence to the
rectifying the tables of the motions of the heavens
and the places of the fixed stars, so as to find out

Greenwich.^

THE ROYAL OBSERVATORY.

213

the so-much-desired longitude of places, for the
perfecting the art of navigation." For this im-
portant service he was to receive the munificent
stipend of ;^ioo per annum !

The next thing to be settled was the site of the
Observatory, and, upon the advice of Sir Christo-
pher Wren, Greenwich Hill was chosen. The old
tower was accordingly ordered to be demolished ;
and the first stone of the new building was laid
in August, 1675. In exactly a year from that
date the edifice was handed over to Flamsteed,
and from him it acquired the name of Flamsteed
House. In the following month he began his ob-
servations, with a sextant of six feet radius, con-
trived by himself, and such other instruments as
were then known. Notwithstanding his scanty
income, and the difficulty he experienced in obtain-
ing such instruments as he required, Flamsteed's
zeal overcame all obstacles, and during his lifetime
the Observatory rose to that first rank which it has
ever since maintained among similar institutions.

It may be worth while to consider here what
was the state of practical astronomy at the time
when Flamsteed commenced his labours. Neither
telescopes nor clocks had yet been introduced into
observatories ; the star catalogue of Tycho Brahe
was derived from observations made with instru-
ments furnished with plain sights ; and this, to-
gether with the Rudolphine tables of the sun,
moon, and planets then known (which were con-
structed from elements quite as rough), were the
only materials existing for the use of the theoretical
astronomer. Flamsteed, who knew vv'hat was
needed, and who had a much better idea than any
man of his time of the means necessary for pro-
ducing comparatively good observations, set about
his task with vigour. He was totally unprovided
with instruments at the public expense, but he
brought with him to the Observatory an iron sextant
of six feet radius, and two clocks, given him by
Sir Jonas Moore, together with a quadrant of three
feet radius, and two telescopes, which he had
brought with him from Denby. With these in-
struments he worked till the year 1678, when he
borrowed from the Royal Society a quadrant of
fifty inches, which, however, he was allowed to
retain only a short time. It must be borne in
mind that the advantages of the system of meridian
observations were unknown, or nearly so, at this
time. The sextant was employed to measure the
distances of an object to be observed from some
standard stars, or stars whose places were supposed
to be better known, and a laborious calculation
was necessary to deduce the resulting place of the
body in every instance. This gave, however, no

means of fixing the place of the body with respect
to the equinox ; and Flamsteed, finding the abso-
lute necessity for an instrument fixed in the plane
of the meridian, applied to the Government. He
was not denied; but being wearied with repeated
promises which were never kept, he at length
resolved to make a " mural arc " at his own ex-
pense, and this instrument was finally erected, and
divided with his own hands in 1683. It was, how-
ever, a failure ; and his observations were continued
for several years longer with the sextant. The
minor obstructions and vexations to which Flam-
steed was subjected we have not space to mention.
It is sufficient to say that, during the whole time
that he officiated as Astronomer-Royal (nearly half
a century from his first appointment), he was not
supplied by the Government with a single instru-
ment. The only assistance he was furnished with
was that of " a silly, surly labourer " to assist him
with the sextant ; the other assistants and com-
puters he provided at his own expense.

In 1684 Flamsteed was presented to the living
of Burstow, in Surrey ; having been from his early
life desirous of devoting himself to the duties of
the ministry. " My desires," he says, in his
" Autobiography," " have always been to learning
and divinity ; and though I have been accidentally
put from it by God's providence, yet I had always
thought myself more qualified for it than for any
other employment, because my bodily weakness
will not permit me action, and my mind has always
been fitted for the contemplation of God and his
works." His father died a few years afterwards ;
and these two circumstances improving his estate,
he determined to construct a new " mural arc,"
stronger than the former ; and this instrument,
famous as really commencing a new era in ob-
serving, was constructed by Mr. Abraham Sharp,
his friend and assistant, at an expense of ^120,
no portion of which was reimbursed to him by
the Government. All Flamsteed's former observa-
tions were of httle value ; no fundamental point of
astronomy was settled by them ; and they merely
served for forming a preliminary or observing
catalogue of objects to be well observed with his
new instrument. From the date of the use of this
instrument, 1689, the useful labours of Flamsteed
commenced ; every observation made after this was
permanently useful, and could be applied to deter-
mine some important point. With this instrument,
t^ter verifying its position and determining its
adjustment, he set about the determination of those
cardinal points in astronomy, the position of the
equinox, the obliquity of the ecliptic, and other
fundamentals, without which the correct positions

214

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

fOreenwich.

of the fixed stars and the planetarj- bodies could
never be ascertained. His methods and processes
are explained by himself in the "HistoriaCoelestis,"
a work in three folio volumes, the third of which
contains his catalogue of 2,935 stars, carried down
to the year 1689. His work still holds a high place
in the history of astronomy.

What instruments Flamsteed had to work with,
then, we are assured he had to provide and pay
for himself ; and in order to do this, he was com-
pelled to turn "teacher." Government had already
imposed upon him the education, monthly, of two
boys from Christ's Hospital, as if his tedious
watches by night, and his laborious calculations
by day, were not sufficient return for his paltry
pittance, which was reduced by a tax to £()o a
year. He thereupon, as we have said, gave lessons
in his favourite science, and obtained for pupils
sundry dukes and lords, with many captains of
vessels and East India ser\-ants, thus augmenting
his pecuniary means.

Flamsteed appears soon to have made many
friends, among whom was the venerable John
Evelyn, who, under date of September loth, 1676,
makes this entry in his " Diar)- : " — " Din'd with
me ]\Ir. Flamsted, the learned astrologer (sic) and
mathematician, whom his Majesty had established
in the new Observator)' in Greenwich Park, with
the choicest instruments. An honest, sincere
man." Evelyn, we need scarcely state, should
have written "astronomer," instead of "astrologer."
But he is not the only person who has made this
confusion. For it is a fact worthy of being placed
on record that seldom a week passes without ladies
driving from London in their carriages to the doors
of the Observatory, and inquiring if they can have
their " horoscopes " cast, evidently showing that
they do not know the difference between astrology
and astronomy. It is to be feared that on this
subject great superstition prevails, even among the
"educated" classes ; and that whilst fortune-tellers,
who practise on poor servant-girls, are pounced
upon by the police, some of the professors of the
secret science, called ".spiritualism," are making
fortunes, by charging a guinea for every consul-
tation, or s'caiuc ! IJut we must now return to our
subject. On the 14th of June, 1680, John luelyn
v/rites : — " Came to dine Dr. Burnet, author of the
' History of the Reformation.' After dinner we all
went to see the Observatory and Mr. Flamsteed,
who show'd us divers rare instruments, espccialiy
the greate quadrant. My old friend Henshaw
was willi me." Again, some three years later,
namely, on the ist of August, 1683, we meet witli
this entry :—" Came to see me Mr. I-'Iamstcd, the

astronomer, from his Observatorie at Greenwich,
to draw the meridian for m)- pendule," &c.

About this time, or shortly after, Flamsteed
became friendly with Sir Isaac Newton, who was
engaged in investigating the irregularities of the
moon's motions, for the confirmation of his theory
of universal gravitation, and who required accurate
observations of the moon for comparison of fact
with fancy. No one but Flamsteed could supply
these, and from time to time Newton visited him
in order to obtain them. But this friendship was
not of long duration. A difference arose between
them, on account of an innocent statement by
Flamsteed, to the effect that he had furnished
Newton with a mass of lunar observations to assist
him in his investigations, getting into print. Some
angry correspondence ensued, and the dispute,
after slumbering for a few years, broke out into a
lamentable quarrel. In course of time. Flam-
steed's valuable store of observations, extending
over the period of thirty years which he had then
passed as Astronomer-Royal, were prepared for
publication. Prince George of Denmark, consort
of Queen Anne, undertook to bear the expense of
printing ; and a committee, with Sir C. Wren and
Newton among the number, was appointed to
examine the manuscript, and see the work through
the press. During its progress, the latent quarrel
between Flamsteed and Newton broke out afresh,
and arrived at its culmination, turning upon the
difference that existed between Flamsteed and the
referees concerning the plan of publication of his
work. The book, " mangled and garbled," was at
length published, and so much did it annoy its
author, that when, a few years after, the undis-
tributed copies, about three-fourths of the entire
impression, were placed in his hands, he at once
committed the whole of them to the flames, " as a
sacrifice to heavenly truth," and " that none may
exist to show the ingratitude of two of his country-
men, who had used him worse than ever the noble
Tycho was used in Denmark." He then resolved
to publish a complete edition of his observations
on his own plan, and at his own expense. It was
to appear in three volumes ; but on the completion
of the second volume, his life's weary toil was
brought to a close, on the last day of the year
1719.

Flamsteed was succeeded by Dr. Halley, an
astronomer also of great eminence, who, finding
upon his appointment tliat the Observatory wa.s
destitute both of furniture and instruments (Flam-
steed's having been removed by his executors as
his personal ijrojicrty), furnished it anew, and fixed
a transit instrument. Its introduction is stated to

Greenwich.]

THE ASTRONOMER-ROYAL.

215

have been the most important step tliat had been
made. It is the most simple and effective of all
astronomical instruments ; and up to the present
time, the only changes that have been made in the
means for observing the right ascensions of the
heavenly bodies, are those which secure to it the
utmost possible stability and accuracy of work-
manship and adjustment. With it alone Halley
continued to make observations of the moon till
the year 1725, when an eight-foot mural quadrant,
made by Graham, was set up at the public expense.
Of the small salary received by Dr. Halley for
his important duties the following anecdote has
been related : — On the accession of George H., the
queen consort, Caroline, made a visit to the Royal
Observatory. Being pleased with everything she
S3lW, and understanding the smallness of the astro-
nomer's salary (^100 per annum), her Majesty
very graciously said she would speak to the king
to have it augmented, to which Dr. Halley replied
in alarm, " Pray, your Majesty, do no such thing ;
for should the salary be increased, it might become
an object of emolument to place there some un-
qualified needy dependant, to the ruin of the insti-
tution." However, understanding that the doctor
had formerly served the Crown as a captain in the
navy, the queen soon after was able to obtain a
grant of his half-pay for that commission, which he
accordingly enjoyed from that time up to the end
of his life.

Halley died in 1742, and his successor was
Dr. Bradley. This eminent astronomer made a
noble series of observations, extending over the
twenty years during which he held the post. In
1750 many valuable additions were made to the
stock of instruments. Bradley died in the year
1762, and was succeeded by Dr. Bliss, who lived
•only till March, 1764. The office next devolved
upon Dr. Maskelyne, who for nearly fifty years per-
formed the duties with wonderful assiduity; scarcely
ever leaving the Observatory, except on some
important scientific business, and making all the
laborious and delicate observations himself, although
he had the co-operation of a skilful assistant. He
first suggested the publication of the Nautical
Almanack, a work of indispensable use to seamen,
of which he edited no less than forty-nine volumes.
At his death he left four large folio volumes of
printed observations as the result of the patient
labour of his life. In 1767 an order was issued
by George III. that the observations made at
Greenwich should be published, under the superin-
tendence of the Royal Society ; they have, ac-
cordingly, since been published annually by that
learned body. The principal addition made to

the Observatory during Maskelyne's directorship
was the building of the "circle " room, contiguous
to and east of the transit-room. Maskelyne died
in 181 1, leaving behind hiin an enviable reputation.
The observations made by this astronomer during
his forty-seven years' residence at Greenwich were
so valuable, that it has been remarked of him by
his biographer, that if the whole materials of science
should be lost except the volume of observations
left by him, they would suffice to reconstruct the
edifice of modern astronomy. He was succeeded
by Mr. John Pond, who held office till the year
1835, when ill health compelled him to resign;
he died in the following year, and was buried
at Lee, in the same tomb with his predecessor.
Dr. Halley. During Mr. Pond's directorship the
Observatory acquired that organisation which it
has since retained, and which was necessary to
enable it to meet the demand made upon it by the
requirements of modern science. On his entrance
upon his duties he began, like his predecessors,
with one assistant ; but on his representations and
urgent entreaties for increase of the establishment,
he finally obtained six assistants ; and this amount
of force for the astronomical department of the
Observatory has been continued with some modifi-
cations to the present time. Pond was peculiarly
skilful in the theory of astronomical instruments,
and in the interpretation of the results afforded
by them. Sir George Airy, in one of his official
reports, states that he regards him as the "prin-
cipal improver of modern practical astronomy."

On the resignation of Mr. Pond, Mr. George
Biddell Airy, then Director of the Observatory at
Cambridge, was appointed to the vacant office.
" Under his presidency," writes Mr. Carpenter, in
the Gentleman' s Magazine (February, 1 866), '" the
Observatory has been gradually augmented and
brought to its present complete and perfect con-
dition. Old instruments, very perfect in their way,
but still behind modem requirements, have been
laid aside, and new systems introduced. Every
improvement and appliance that science could sug-
gest has been made subservient to the utilitarian
principles of the Observatory under its present
organisation." Sir George Airy resigned in 1881,
and Mr. AVilliam Christie, M.A., was nominated in
his place.

The Observatory was never intended for show,
but for work. It was constructed in haste, chiefly
V, iih the materials of the old tower, and some spare
bricks that lay available at Tilbury Fort. The
admissions to the building are strictly limited to
such individuals as are most likely to be benefited
by visiting it, and idling sightseers are carefully

2l6

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

excluded. A card is kept in the porter's lodge,
which explains that the privilege of visiting the
Observatory is of necessity very limited, those
officially privileged being officers of the Royal .
NsLvy and gentlemen officially connected with the |
Admiralty ; other visitors are required to be fur-
nished with an introduction from some person of
scientific distinction.

A few objects arrest attention outside the walls
of the edifice. For instance, the twenty-four hour

and time is the only natural standard this earth
possesses ; it is the only thing that is invariable.
Now the British imperial standard yard, by law
established, is a measure of length, bearing a certain
definite proportion to the length of a pendulum
which, at a given temperature and under other
specified conditions, beats accurately seconds of
mean solar time. This is the connection between
astronomy and yard-measures. Any one who de-
sires to secure an accurate yard-measure may do

FLA.MSTEED HOUSE. {From Hollar'' s " Long l^iciv.'')

electric clock, supposed by the uninitiated to be
kept going by the sun ; the jjublic barometer, with
its indices, showing tiie higliest and lowest read-
ings during the past few hours ; the little wind-
mill like a child's toy on the roof ; and the high
pole with a light at tlie top, conjectured to be a
beacon to show the longitude at sea. One other
external object must not be overlooked : this
is an iron plate fixed against the wall, with a
number of brass plugs and pins projecting from it,
with the inscri])tions, "British Yard.'' "Two Feet,'
&c., over them. " It will probably be asked,"
says Mr. Carpenter, in an article in the Gentleman's
Magazine, from which we liave already quoted,
" wJiat has a yard-measure to do with astronomy?
It has a great deal. One important branch of
practical astronomy is the measurement of time.

so by carrying to Greenwich a rod about a yard
long, and truly adjusting it by means of the ap-
pliance there exposed for the public benefit. He
will find two plugs, the distance between which is
exactly a yard when the temperature of the air is
about 60°, and two pins for the support of the rod
to be adjusted. The plugs are bevelled off a little
on their insidcs, and the points that are exactly a
yard apart are marked upon tlieir upper surfaces
by arrow-heads. If the rod will not go in as far
as the arrow-heads, it is too long ; if it passes them
loosely, it is too short. Similar plugs are provided
for shorter measures, down to three inches."

On passing inside the gate, the first object thai
presents itself is a range of low buildings inmie-
diately to the left, railed off from the more common
portions of the court. Tiic old-fashioned yet rather

Greenwich.]

THE TRANSIT INSTRUMENT.

217

picturesque gables and roughly-tiled roofs of these
buildings, and their general humble aspect, give
no evidence of their use, except what may be
gathered from the slits, closed by shutters, which
in two places intersect them, and the domes that
flank them at their eastern and south-western
extremities ; yet in these unpretending rooms not
only are all the observations made which give its
fame to the establishment, but the reduction of
them is also performed there, and they are ren-
dered fit for the immediate use of the astronomer.
The door immediately opposite, as we cross the
court, is that of the Astronomer-Royal's residence,
all the apartments of which are on the ground-
floor, and situated on either side of a long gallery
running nearly east and west. On the wall of the
building, near this doorway, is a slab containing
the original inscription set up at the erection of the
Observatory ; it is as follows : —

Carolus II., Rex Optimus,

Astronomic et Nautic^e Arlis

Patronus Maximus,

Speculum hanc in utriusque commoduin

Fecit,

Anno Dni. MDCLXXVI., Regni Sui xxviii.,

Curante JoNA MookE, milite.

A doorway near the eastern end of the range of
buildings leads into the transit-circle room, one of
the principal observingrooms of the establishment.
To the reader not familiar with the instruments
and processes of astronomy it may be desirable to
explain that the transit instrument is a telescope
which is supposed theoretically to describe the
plane of the meridian. For this special purpose it
is furnished with two axes, terminating in two well-
polished equal cylindrical pivots ; and these pivots
being placed in bearings sunk in the stone piers
shaped like the letter Y (technically called " Y's "),
the instrument is capable of revolving freely.

We may here remark that the principal duty
of the practical astronomer is the determination
of right ascensions and polar distances. " Right
ascension," says Mr. Carpenter, "is the distance
of a heavenly body from an imaginary point — or,
more properly, a great circle passing through a point
— in the heavens, called the first point of Aries. It
is a well-known fact that the earth completes one
revolution upon its axis in the course of twenty-
four hours ; and this rotation affords a ready
means of measuring right ascension. We have
only to ascertain how much the earth turns between
the time that the first point of Aries crosses the
meridian, and the time that the star to be measured
crosses it. To measure this two things are requi-
site— a clock, and something like a line to see
259

the stars pass over. ... A telescope is firmly
fixed to a horizontal axis, and mounted upon two
stone pillars, just as a gun is mounted upon its
trunnions, free to move vertically, but incapable of
moving horizontally. The telescope is so adjusted,
that upon spinning it round, it sweeps out an imagi-
nary plane which lies exactly due north or south
of the Observatory. In its focus is placed an ex-
tremely fine vertical line — in reality, a fragment
of spider's web. Now, to whatever point of the
heavens we direct this telescope, bearing in mind
that it can only move in a vertical direction, that
spider-line represents the astronomical meridian
at that point. The virtual meridian of Greenwich
is therefore really no more than half an inch of
cobweb. If, then, we take a clock, and set it at
oh. om. OS. when the first point of Aries crosses
the meridian, it will be obvious that the time by
that clock, when any object passes the spider-line
in the telescope, will be its distance from that point
expressed in time ; for instance, if we direct the
telescope to a star that we see approaching the
meridian, and observe that it crosses the cobweb
at 5h. 2im. 45s., we know, assuming the clock to
be correct, and the instrument in proper adjust-
ment, that the right ascension of the star is 5h.
2im. 45s. From the circumstance of all objects
crossing or transiting the field cf this telescope, it
bears the very appropriate title of the ' Transit
Instrument.' It was invented by Romer, a Danish
astronomer, about the year 1690, and was first
used at the Greenwich Observatory by Halley
some thirty years after."

Upon the same wall on which hangs Halley's
primitive instrument are suspended two or three
other transit instruments which in their time have
doubtless rendered good service to astronomical
science. These are the instruments introduced by
Dr. Bradley, and also Troughton's noble instru-
ment, used by Maskelyne and Pond, and by
Sir George Airy up to the year 1850, when it
was dismounted to give place to the gigantic
" transit-circle " now in use. This last-mentioned
instrument is, in fact, a combination of two
instruments, seeing that it has also superseded
the " mural quadrant," by means of which a star
or planet's polar distance was formerly ascertained.
This instrument is twelve feet in length, and its
largest glass is eight inches in diameter. Attached
to the telescope is the circle which answers to the
" mural circle " ; around its circumference is a
narrow band of silver, upon which are engraved
those divisions representing degrees of angular
measurement, of which the whole circle contains
360. These degrees are further subdivided into

2ii:

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

smaller intervals of five minutes, and the inter-
mediate minutes and seconds, and decimals of a
second, are what is technically teiTned "read off"
by means of micrometers, si.x of which are used,
and their mean taken, to eliminate errors of ob-
servation, &c These micrometers are affixed to
one of the piers supporting the instrument, the
pier itself being perforated to allow the divisions to
be seen through it. Another circle attached to
the telescope is a clamping circle, for the purpose
of fixing the instrument rigidly during an observ-
ation. Counterpoises in various parts, apparatus
for raising the instrument, and other appliances
necessary for purposes of adjustment, make up the
other details of the "transit circle," in front of
which stands the " transit clock," which is its in-
dispensable accessory.

We have arrived, let us suppose, a little before
noon ; the sun is about to cross the meridian, and
an observation is to be made. Shutters in the
roof are thrown open, the great telescope is swung
up and fi.xed in position, and an observer seats
himself at the lower end of it. Peeping through
the instrument, all that could be seen by an " out-
side " observer would be a number of vertical lines,
technically called " wires," but in reality so many
pieces of cobweb, as mentioned above, stretched
across the field of observation at irregular distances.
The centre one is the celebrated meridian of Green-
wich, or, at all events, it represents it, and it is
curious to reflect that from this centre line ships of
all civilised nations, and in all parts of the known
world, are reckoning their distances. What the
regular observer has to do is to record the precise
instant at which the sun's edge, or " limb," as astro-
nomers call it, passes that central " wire." In any
single observation, however, he may be a little at
fault, and for the sake of greater accuracy, there-
fore, he notes the instant at which it passes over all
the "wires," and then strikes an average between
them. Slowly liic sun creeps u[) to the first line,
and the observer lightly taps a little spring attached
to the telescope. The second " wire " is reached,
and again the spring is tapped, and so on through-
out the whole seven or nine webs employed in
the observation. This spring is connected with
a telegraphic wire extending to a " chronograph "
in a distant part of the building, which consists of a
cylinder, around which a sheet of white paper has
been strained. The cylinder itself is revolved by
the pendulum of an electric clock, which, instead
of oscillating backwards and forwards, swings round
in a circle, thus [)roducing a motion perfectly
uniform and unbroken. A little steel point, which
is travelling over the surface of the paper, is in

electric communication with the spring attached
to the great telescope ; " and," observes a writer in
Cassell's Family Magazine, "every time the observer
taps the spring, this little travelling point pricks
into the paper, thus recording that the sun has just
crossed a ' wire.' This in itself, however, would
not be a record of the time of transit if it were not
that another little steel point, which is in con-
nection with a galvanic clock in another part of
the building, has previously marked the sheet of
paper into spaces representing precise seconds of
time. On the completion of tlie observation the
paper may be removed from the cylinder, and
affords a permanent record of it."

One other object in the apartment containing the
"transit circle" should not be passed unnoticed;
it is the identical instrument with which Bradley
made his important discovery of the aberration of
light.

The next important instrument is the altitude
and azimuth, or, as it is termed, for shortness, the
"altazimuth," which is located in the south dome
of the Observatory buildings. This instrument was
erected in J 84 7, for the sole purpose of observing
the moon. Next to the sun, the most important
of the heavenly bodies is the moon, for, inde-
pendently of her use in regulating the division of
the year into months, and creating the tides of
the ocean, she is indispensable to nautical science,
as her motions afford the only means of accu-
rately determining the longitude at sea. The Ob-
servatory was originally founded for observations
necessary to bring to perfection the lunar tables,
and for the improvement of nautical astronomy.
The observation of the moon in every part of
her orbit has always been, therefore, an object of
first-rate importance. To effect this, meridian
observations have been regularly made in fixed
observatories, as alone giving results of the requisite
excellence. But, since the moon is invisible at her
meridian passage for nearly one third of her orbit
— viz., for about four days, on the average, before
conjunction, and for four days after it — and since
also a great many ob.servations in each lunation
are necessarily lost by cloudy weather, it became a
great desideratum to su])ply, if possible, by cxtra-
meridianal observations, these defects. The alti-
tude and azimulhal instrument was evidently the
kind of instrument that must be employed for this
purpose, because, its axes being one horizontal and
the other vertical, the parts of the instruments are
equally affected by gravity in every position, and
the only thing wanted to produce observations
which should rival those made with the transit
instrument and mural circle, would be sufficient

Green wictt.J

THE ALTITUDE AND AZIMUTH TELESCOPE.

219

firmness. To secure this the Astronomer-Royal
adopted as his principles of construction, " to form
as many parts as possible in one cast of metal, to
use no small screws in the union of parts, and to
have no power of adjustment in any." The instru-
ment is, therefore, as the visitor would at once
see, of unusual weight and solidity. One of the
two vertical cheeks that are on each side of the
telescope carries, in one cast of metal, the four
microscopes for reading the vertical circle, and the
supports of the levels parallel to the plane of that
circle. The lower piece connecting these cheeks,
or the base plate, carries in one cast the four
microscopes for reading the horizontal or azimuthal
circle, and supports two levels parallel to the
horizontal axis ; and the upper connecting-piece
carries two other levels similarly situated on the
upper pivot. These pieces are most firmly con-
nected with the side vertical cheeks by means of
planed surfaces and screw bolts. The vertical
circle was made in two casts of metal — viz., the
cylindrical part, the spokes and pivots on one side,
the object-end and the eye-end of the telescope
were made in one cast ; and in the other cast are
included the spokes and pivot on the other side.
Thus tlie whole of the essential parts of the
instrument, with regard to firmness, were made in
six casts of metal. The weight of these six parts
is about sixteen hundredweight.

Some idea of the importance of the Greenwich
lunar observations may be inferred from the cir-
cumstance that, during the century ending with the
year 1851, Greenwich contributed nearly 12,000
observations of the moon towards the improve-
ment and perfection of the vexatious lunar theory,
all reduced under the direction of Sir G. B. Airy,
and rendered immediately available for the investi-
gations of the physical astronomer, the lunar tables
now in use being chiefly based upon these observa-
tions. Since the introduction of the " altazimuth,"
the number of observations of the moon formerly
made here in the course of each year has been
about doubled, and, as a natural consequence, the
value of the Greenwich lunar observations has been
largely increased.

It may be asked by some of our readers, how
are the Greenwich observations of the moon con-
nected with navigation ? A few lines by the author
quoted above may be given as a reply. " The
observing astronomer," he writes, " observes accu-
rately the position of the moon in the heavens at
all times and under all circumstances. He turns
his observations over to the physical astronomer.
The ]ihysical astronomer deduces from them the
laws that govern the moon's motions, and repre-

sents those motions by numerical tables. These
tables are put into the hands of the computer of
the Nautical Almanac, who, by their aid, predicts
the place the moon will occupy, with reference
to proximate stars and otherwise, at every hour
of the day and night throughout the year, and
publishes these ' lunar distances ' in that work,
three or four years in advance, for the benefit of
seamen starting on long voyages. The mariner
observes the moon and stars near her with his
sextant, and from comparison of his observations
with the positions given in the Nautical Almanac
computes his longitude, and ascertains the place of
his vessel on the trackless ocean."

We will now pass on to the interior of the very
large dome, or rather drum, that caps the south-
eastern extremity of the Observatory. In it is a
magnificent specimen of the class of instrument
known as the "equatorial." The dome itself,
which has an opening closed by curved shutters,
sliding upwards and downwards, moves round with
sufficient ease by means of a toothed wheel and
rack, the manual power being applied at the
ends of long radial bars. The great equatorial
telescope was mounted about the year i860,
under the direction and from the plans of Sir
George Airy. The author whom we have already
quoted remarks that, " It is the largest instru-
ment in the Observatory, and of its kind is
one of the finest in the world. Its object-glass,
which is thirteen inches in diameter, and has a
focal distance of eighteen feet, alone cost ^1,200.
The most curious feature in this telescope is the
clockwork arrangement by w^hich it follows any
object under examination. It is used chiefly for
what may be called gazing purposes — such, for
instance, as the scrutiny of the marvellous erup-
tions on the surface of the sun, or the mountains
of the moon, and it is often necessary to continue
such observations for hours together. It is plain,
however, that if an observer is examining the face
of the sun, the motion of the earth will gradually
bear him and his telescope eastward until the
great luminary is lost to view. He will steadily
creep out at the western side of the field. This is
obviated by the operation of a clock driven by
falling water This powerful piece of mechanism
is connected with the great iron framework sup-
porting the telescope, and just as the earth creeps
round from west to east, the telescope and all that
pertains to it is borne round from east to west.
Thus, so far as the motion of the earth is con-
cerned, the sun, moon, or stars, as seen through the
great equatorial, will appear to be perfectly sta-
tionary."

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

The need of still greater telescopic power has
led to the thirteen-inch object glass of this tele-
scope being replaced by one of twenty-eight inches
diameter and twenty-eight feet focus, which is now
being mounted (1892) on the framework figured
in our engraving. This necessitates a much larger
covering dome — larger, in fact, than the diameter
of the building on which it has to rest.

We have now seen all the more prominent
features of the astronomical department of Green-
wich Observatory, though there yet remain many
other objects of the utmost scientific interest —
such as rain-gauges, hygrometers, anemometers, and
thermometers, placed in all kinds of positions,
and under all kinds of conditions. In one room
is a very large number of Government chrono-
meters, required for the use of ships ; while in a
building apart from the Astronomical Observatory,
is a ALignetic Observatory, established about the
year 1840, for the purpose of ascertaining and
recording the various phenomena of the magnetic
currents of the earth. "The principal instru-
ments in the Magnetic Observatory," writes Mr. J.
Carpenter, " are three magnets about two feet long,
one suspended by a skein of silk fibres, in the
plane of the magnetic meridian, for indicating the
variation in declination of the needle ; another,
suspended by two silk skeins, at right angles to
the meridian, for indicating the earth's horizontal
magnetic force ; and a third, poised upon knife
edges, like a scale-beam, for showing the vertical
magnetic force. In order to se.nure as uniform
a temperature as possible, these instruments are
mounted in a subterranean apartment. Until the
year 1847 it was customary to observe the positions
of these magnets every two hours throughout the
day and night, i>ut it afterwards became evident
that some mode of perpetual registration of their
movements was absolutely necessary, and a reward
of ;^5oo was offered for some system by which
this could be effected. The reward was gained by
Mr. Brooke, a medical gentleman of London, who
so completely solved the problem by the skilful
application of photography that his method has
ever since been used with perfect success in this
and other magnetic observatories, entirely su])er-
seding the old system of eye-observation. 'I'hc
simjjle i)rocess is as follows : — Each magnet has a
concave mirror affixed to it in such a manner that
every deflection of the magnet deflects the mirror
also. A gas burner is so jilaccd that a beam of
light from it is always shining u])on the mirror.
At some distance from the magnet is a cylinder,
around which is wrapped a sheet of photographic
paper. The beam of ga.slight falling on the mirror

is reflected, as a little spot of light, on to the
paper, and as the magnet moves the spot of light
changes its position on the sheet, leaving its trail
I wherever it goes. The cylinder is made to revolve
once in twenty-four hours, and the magnet thus
records, night and day, its minute changes of
position. Two magnets trace their movements
upon the same sheet of paper, which is changed
every morning, and the latent image brought out,
or ' developed,' in the usual way. Across the
centre of the sheet runs a fine straight line, called
the I'ase line, its place relative to the traces of the
magnets serving as a zero from which the various
positions of the magnet during the day are mea-
sured, the time being ascertained by a time-scale
laid down on each sheet. In a similar manner
the movements of delicate galvanometers, placed
in the circuits of long lines of telegraph wires
with ' earth-plates ' (masses of metal buried in
the earth) at their extremities, register the fluctua-
tions of those mysterious galvanic currents that
are constantly circulatmg through the earth, and
to which the name of ' earth-currents ' has been
given. The height of the barometer and the
changes of temperature during the day and night
are simply recorded by photography. In the case
of the barometer, this is effected by means of a
float on the surface of the mercury in a syplion
tube, which, as it rises and falls, raises or lowers a
diaphragm with a small hole pierced through it,
allowing the light from an adjacent gas-flame to
fall upon the sensitive paper, which is, in this case,
wrapped around a vertical revolving cylinder. In
the case of thermometers, the gas-light is allowed
to shine through the glass tube upon the pa-ssing
paper, and the mercury, rising and falling, serves
as a shutter that cuts off the light at various heights
corresponding to the various temperatures.

" Here we see the use of the high pole with a
light at the summit, that so mystifies the outer
world. It is for the purpose of supporting a wire
that is suspended from its top to the summit of
the Astronomical Observatory. This wire collects
electricity from the almosjjherc, and conducts it
down another wire to the room beneath, where, by
means of appropriate electrometers, its (juantity is
measured and its quality ascertained. The light
at the mast-head is for the purjMse of i)reserving
the apparatus in a degree of warmth and dryness
essential to produce insulation, and prevent the
escape of the atmosjiheric electricity." (The varia-
tions in the state of atmos]iheric electricity^ col-
lected by a falling jet of water, have of late been
registered by photography by a kindred method to
that already described for recording variations in

I

Greenwich.)

THE MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY.

the galvanic earth-currents.) " In connection with
this department we must visit tlie anemometers,
or wind gauges. For this purpose it is necessary
to mount to the highest point of the Observatory.
One of these anemometers is, to all outward ap-
pearance, nothing more than a simple vane ; but
if we enter the turret upon which it is mounted,
we shall see that its motions are communicated,
through a little simple machinery, to a pencil
which is tracing upon a sheet of paper, moved by
clockwork, every motion of the vane above ; and
thus recording to all futurity every change of wind
throughout the day and night. Another pencil
is marking the force of the wind, or its pressure
in pounds upon the square foot ; while a third,
only called into use in rainy weather, shows the
quantity of rain that falls and the rate of its
falling. On another part of the roof is the little
windmill to which we have before alluded. This
is also an anemometer ; its use is to determine
the velocity of the wind, or, in other words, the
length in miles of the current of air that passes
over Greenwich in a given time. It consists of
four cups, mounted upon horizontal arms attached
to a verticle spindle; the rotation of the cups,
which are spun round by the wind, is communi-
cated through the spindle to a train of wheels and
dials, which latter indicate the exact number of
lumdreds or thousands of revolutions performed by
the cups, and from this the velocity of the wind
is deduced.

" Here, too, we are brought into closer contact
with the time-signal ball ; a wood and leather
sphere, five feet in diameter, that is raised every
day at five minutes before one o'clock, and dropped
at one precisely by the galvanic motor clock, the
clock giving a signal that, by means of magnetism,
pulls a trigger, and disengages the ball."

Nothing, perhaps, throughout the Observatory
is calculated to strike the visitor with greater as-
tonishment than the motor clock above referred
to. There is nothing very remarkable in its
appearance, but the work it accomplishes renders
it, perhaps, the most wonderful clock in the world,
and certainly the most important one in England.
The writer above quoted continues — " It regulates
several clocks within the Observatory, as well as
the large one already referred to outside the gates ;
one at Greenwich Hospital Schools, another at
the London Bridge Station of the South-Eastern
Railway, another at the Post Office, St. Martin's-le-
Grand, and another in Lombard Street. Once
every day it telegraphs correct time to the great
clock tower at Westminster ; it drops the signal-
ball over the Observatory, another near Charing

Cross, and one at Deal ; it fires time-guns at Shields
and Newcastle, and every hour throughout the day
it flashes out correct time to each of the railway
companies. All this is accomplished, as it wore, by
the mere volition of the clock, and without any
human interference whatever. Every morning it
is corrected by an actual observation of a star ;
and thus, without being aware of it, do we every
day start our trains, and make our appointments,
and take our meals by the motions of the heavenly
bodies as observed and recorded during the pre-
ceding night."

It is no longer, therefore, " the Horse Guards'
clock," but Greenwich Observatory, which regu-
lates the times of all the clocks and watches in
London. The Post Office authorities have granted
the special use of a system of electric wires to the
inventors of a method for synchronising clocks.
The arrangements recently completed bring the
Greenwich Observatory into direct communica-
tion with the establishment at Cornhill of Messrs.
Barraud and Lund, the inventors of an apparatus
by means of which existing clocks can be auto-
matically " set to time." The mechanism is of the
simplest kind ; it interferes in no way with the
works of a clock, and can be applied to any time-
piece in or out of doors. Any number of clocks,
varying in size and calibre, can, upon receipt of
one time-signal, be simultaneously set to accord
with each other in accurately denoting Greenwich
time. A very small outlay, it is said, will secure
true Greenwich time to every City establishment.
So extensive has this work of time-distribution
become that the maintenance of the telegraphic
wires, batteries, and connexions in and about the
Observatory overtaxed the astronomical staff, and
everything beyond the clocks and instruments has
now been transferred to the Post Office Telegraphic
Department.

An account of what has been done at the Green-
wich Observatory, as well as of wliat is in progress,
is given in the annual report of the Astronomer-
Royal, and the results are issued from time to
time in a more substantial form in the shape of
such works as the Astronomer-Royal's " Corrections
of the Elements of the Lunar Theory " (1859) ; the
"Greenwich Catalogue of 2,022 Stars" (1864);
and "Catalogue of 2,760 Stars" (1870). More
recently the subjects of solar photography and
spectroscopy have been added to the routine in-
vestigations of the Observatory. From the annual
report published in 1S84, we learn that the sun,
moon, planets, and fundamental stars had been
regularly observed throughout the year, together
with other stars from a working catalogue of 2,600,

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Greenwich.

comprising all stars down to the sixth magni-
tude, inclusive, which had not been observed since
i860. The annual catalogue of stars observed in
1883 contains about 1,550 stars. In the twelve
months ending May 20, 1884, photographs of the
sun had been taken on 2 1 9 days ; there were four
days on which the sun's disk was observed to be
nee from spots.

Sir George Airy, in his report for 1S75, re-
marked that the Observatory was expressly built

ments, by Pond ; and by himself (Sir G. B. Airy)
for some years, and subsequently with the instru-
ments now in use. It had been his own intention
to maintam the [)rinciiiles of the long-esi^iblished
system in perfect integrity, varying the instruments,
the modes of employing them, and the modes 01
utilising the observations by calculation and pub-
lication, as the progress of science might require.

Sir George Airy, retiring in 1881, was succeeded
by Mr. W. H. M. Christie, for some years his

TiiK MAi;NF-Tir ri.ocK, orf.enwich observatory.

for the aid of astronomy and navigation, for
promoting methods of determining longitude at sea,
and, as the circumstances that led to its formation
show, more especially for determination of the
moon's motions. All these imply as their first step
the formation of accurate catalogues of stars, and
the determination of the fundamental elements of
the solar system. These objects have been steadily
pursued from the foundation of the observatory —
in one way by Flamsteed, in another way by Halley,
and by Bradley in the early part of his career ; in
a third form by Bradley in his later years, by
Maskelyne (who contributed most powerfully to
lunar and chronometric nautical astronomy), and
for a time by Pond ; then, with improved instru-

chief assistant, ^\'ilh little or no disturbance of
continuity of the .scheme of niensunitive astro-
nomy for which Greenwich holds the first place
among observatories, there has been since then a
great increase in the jihysical branch of astronomy.
To this end the instrimiental means have been
largely augmented. W'u have referred to the in-
crease of size and power of the "(;reat" eqtm-
torial. A reflecting telescope, with a mirror of two
feet diameter, formerly the property of Mr. Lassell,
has been mounted as an additional equatorial.
Another addition has been a photograiihic tele-
scope, with a thirtecninch object-glass, the main
purpose of which is to take part in the production
of the International Photographic Chart of the

Greenwich. 1

THE ELECIRIC CLOCK.

223

Stars. This great work has been divided between
eighteen observatories, each of which has to take
from 1,000 to 1,500 perfect plates, showing all
stars down to the eleventh magnitude. When
completed, some years hence, this chart will rc-

grown, the permanent staff of assistants having
been raised from eight to eleven, and the super-
numerary strength correspondingly augmented,
seveial ladies now taking part in the calculating
and photographic labours. The fruit of this

THE GREAT EQUATORIAL TELESCOPE IN THE DOME, GREENWICH OBSERVATORY.

present the entire sphere of the heavens so far as
( oncerns stars of that magnitude. A net-work of
fiducial lines ])hotographed on each plate will give
the means of locating every star.

Another material addition to the Observatory
just commenced is a museum and storehouse for
portable instruments and apparatus, with apart-
ments for conducting what may be called chamber
investigations.

The personnel of the Observatory has likewise

growth is shown by the Astronomer-Royal's state-
ment that during the five years ending in 1889
the Annual Volume of published observations and
results had increased by 36 per cent. Evidently,
therefore, Greenwich Observatory is not likely to
lose its pre-eminence.

The Observatory is annually inspected by a body
of scientific persons of high standing, who are com-
missioned by the Government of the day to see that
the institution is maintained in a state of efficiency.

224

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

fBlackheath.

CHAPTER XVIL
BLACKHEATH, CHARLTON, AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

* And eastward straight from wild Blackheath the warlike errand went,
And roused in many an ancient hall the gallant squires of Kent."

Macaulny's Ballad of *

The Armada.'

Situation and Description of Blackheath— Derivation of its Name— Discovery of Numerous Tumuli— Encampment of the Danish Army— Wat Tyler's
Rebellion— Reception of Richard It. at Blackheath— The Emperor of Constantinople— Reception of Henry V. on his Return from Agincoutt
—Other Royal Receptions- Jack Cade and his Followers— Henry VI. and the Duke of York— The Cornish Rebels— The Smith's torge—
Reception of Cardinal Campegio, and of Eonevet, High Admiral of France— Princess Anne of Cleves— Arrival of Charles II., on his Reslora-
lion— Blackheath Fair— The " Chocolate House "—Present Condition of Blackheath— East Coombe and 'West Coombe— Lavinia Fenton
i" Polly Peachum"), Duchess of Bolton— Woodlands— Montagu House— The Princess Charlotte— Mrs. Mary Anne Clarke and the Duke of
■S'ork— Fla-\man,'the Sculptor— Maize Hill— 'Vanbrugh Castle— The Mince-pie House— Charlton— St. Luke's Church— Charlton House— Horn
Fair— Shooter's Hill— The Herbert Hospital— Severndroog Castle— Morden College— Kidbrook.

Bl.\ckhe.\th, which is divided from its aristocratic
neighbour onh' by a wall, pleasantly overlooks a
portion of the counties of Kent and Surrey, and
aftbrds such extensive views of the distant scenery
as can be exceeded only by climbing Shooter's Hill,
or some of the neighbouring heights on the left
of the heath. In past times it was planted with
gibbets, on which the bleaching bones of men who
had dared to ask for some extension of liberty, or
who doubted the infallibility of kings, were left year
after year to dangle in the wind. In the distance
the ancient palace of Eltham may just be seen
between the trees, heaving up like a large barn
against the sky.

Blackheath — which furnishes the name to the
hundred to which it belongs — lies chiefly in the
parishes of Greenwich and Lewisham, a portion,
however, being in the parish, or " liberty," of
Kidbrook, while a part of Blackheath Park is in
Charlton parish. The name is variously derived
from its bleak situation, and from its black appear-
ance. The heath is a broad expanse of open green-
sward, intersected by several cross-roads. Nearly
in the line of the present Dover Road, which
traverses the centre of the heath from the top of
Blackheath Hill eastward towards Shooter's Hill,
ran the ancient Watling Street or Roinaa Road ;
and along this road were numerous tumuli. Many
of them, including those within Greenwich Park,
near Croom's Hill Gate, of whit:h we have spoken
in the previous chapter, were opened towards the
end of the last century. They were found to be
mostly small conical mounds, with a circular trench
at the base, and are presumed to have been Romano-
British. No skeletons were discovered in them,
but there were " some locks of hair, and one fine
braid of an auliurn hue was ' tenacious and very
distinct,' and ' contained its natural phlogiston.'
The sfiolia were chiefly iron spear-heads (one fifteen
inches long and two inches broad was found ' in
the native gravel '), knives, and nails, glass beads,
and woollen and linen cloth. At the south-west

corner of the heath, by Blackheath Hill, urns (some
of which are in the British Museum) and other
Roman remains have been found." Near the
summit of the hill, at a spot called " The Point,"
a remarkable cavern, extending several hundred
feet under ground, was discovered about the year
1780, in laying the foundation of a house. "The
entrance," writes Richardson in his " History of
Greenwich," " was then through a narrow aper-
ture, but a flight of steps have since been made.
It consists of four irregular apartments, in the
furthest of which is a well of pure water, twenty-
seven feet in depth. They are cut out of a
stratum of chalk and flint, and communicate by
small avenues ; the bottom of the cavern is sand.
From the well at the extremity of this singular
excavation, it seems probable that it has, at some
distant period, been used as a place of conceal-
ment, and the general supposition is that it was
used for that purpose during the Saxon and Danish
contests, but nothing has been discovered to assist
inquiry."

Previous to the erection of the several villa
residences with v.hich the heath is now nearly sur-
rounded on three sides, this place was the scene of
many important historical and political events.

Here, as we have already had occasion to
remark, the main body of the Danish army lay
encamped in the reign of Ethclred, while their
ships held possession of the river for three or four
years in succession. Several places in the neigh-
bourhood are still called "Coombs" and "Comps."
East Coombe and West Coombe, two estates on
the borders of the heath, are presumed to trace
their names from the encampments of the Danes at
this place — coomb as well as rt7w/> signifying camp;
<ooml> being i)robably the Saxon term, and i0)iij>
the Danish or corrupt Saxon, both of which tongues
were then in use. The manors of East and West
Coombe are situated at the north-east corner of tlie
heath ; and there was formerly one called Middle
Coombe, otherwise Spittle Coombe, which in all

Blackhcath.]

HISTORICAL REMINISCENCES.

"5

probability, was attached to that of West Coonibe.
Vestiges of intrenchments were, some years ago,
distinctly traced in ditferent parts of the heath,
some formed doubtless by the Danes, and others
by the various bodies of insurgents who have en-
camped here at different times. Of these, the most
formidable was that in 1381, raised by Wat Tyler,
a blacksmith of Dartford, on account of the* impo-
sition of a " poll tax " of three groats on all persons
above fifteen. When the insurgents of Esse.x arose,
they were joined by those of Kent, and began to
assemble on Blackheath ; whence, having in a few
days increased to 100,000 men, they marched on
to London under the command of their principal
leaders, Wat Tyler and Jack Straw, and afterwards
separated into three parties; one of these proceeded
to the Temple, which they burnt to the ground,
with all the books and papers deposited there ;
another party burnt the monastery of St. John of
Jerusalem, at Clerkenwell ; while the third took
up its position at the Tower. Wat Tyler, as all
readers of English history know, was soon after-
wards slain in Smithfield by William Walworth,
Lord Mayor of London ; and Jack Straw, with
many others, was beheaded.

Again, when Richard II. took for his second
wife Isabel, the "little'' daughter of the King of
France, the royal train, on approaching London,
was met on Blackheath by the lord mayor and
aldermen, habited in scarlet, who attended the
king to Newington (Surrey), where he dismissed
them, as he and his youthful. bride were to "rest
at Kennyngtoun."

In 1400, Manuel Palasologus, Emperor of Con-
stantinople, who had come to England to entreat
the assistance of King Henry IV. against Bajazet,
Emperor of the Turks, was met on Blackheath by
the king, who conducted him to the City with great
state and magnificence. In 141 5, Henry V. was
met liere by the lord mayor and aldermen, and
a large number of citizens, on his return from the
battle of Agincourt ; and in the following year
this spot was the scene of the reception of the
Emperor Sigismund, on his arrival in this country
to treat for peace between the crowns of England
and France.

On the 2 1 St of February, 1431, Henry VI., who,
twelve months after his coronation in England,
had gone to France to be crowned in the church
of Notre Dame in Paris, was received with great
pomp on Blackheath, upon his return, by the lord
mayor and aldermen of London.

The following is an extract from a curious
poem (transcribed by Sir Harris Nicolas from
the Harleian and Cottonian MSS. in the British

Museum) written by John Lydgate, the " Monk of
Bury," and entitled, " The Comynge of the Kyng
out of France to London," when the citizens ol
every craft —

" Stiitly horsyJ, after the Mair ridyng,

Passyd the subbarbes to mete with tlie Kyng,"

attended by all their officers and servants.

" To the Blakeheth whanne they dyd atteync,
The Mair of prudence in especialie
Made them liove in renges tweyne,
A strete betwen, ech party lik a walle,
Alle clad in whit, and the most principalle.
Afore in red, with the Mair ridyng,
Till tyme that he saw the Kyng comyng ;
Thanne, with his sporys, he toke his hors anone.
That to beholde it was a noble sight.
How lyk a man he to the Kyng is gone.
Right well cheryd of herte, glad, and light,
Obeienge to hym, as hym ought of right. " *

During Jack Cade's noted rebellion in 1449 and
1450, his followers —

" Rebellious hinds, the filth and scum of Kent " —
were twice encamped "on the plaine of Blackheath
between Eltham and Greenwiche," as we learn from
Holinshed's " Chronicle." Of Cade's subsequent
capture and death we have already spoken in our
account of the "White Hart " Inn in the Borough.+
On the 23rd of February, 145 1, his followers came
"in their shirts," and with "halters on their necks,"
to the king on Blackheath, and begged his pardon
on their knees, professing themselves ready to
receive from him their " doom of life or death."

In 1452, Henry VI. pitched his tent on Black-
heath, when opposing the forces of his cousin, the
Duke of York, father of King Edward IV. In
147 1 the " bastard" Falconbridge t encamped here
with his army against Edward IV. ; and three years
later the lord mayor and aldermen of London,
with four hundred citizens, here met the king on
his return from France, where he had been with an
army of 30,000 to conclude a treaty of peace with
Louis, the French monarch.

In 1497, the Cornish rebels,§ amounting to
6,000, headed by Lord Audley, Michael Joseph, a
farrier, and Thomas Flamraock, a lawyer, were
defeated on this heath by the forces under King
Henry VII. Two thousand of the insurgents were
slain, and the rest forced to surrender. Lord
Audley was beheaded on Tower Hill, and Joseph
and Flamrnock were hanged at Tyburn. Lambarde,
the Kentish historian, who at the beginning of the
seventeenth century lived at West Coombe, and
was therefore famiUar with the locality, writes in his

* " Chronicles of London, from 1089 to 14S3."

t See ante, p. 86. X See ante, p 9.

§ See ante, p. 10.

226

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Blackheath.

" Perambulation of Kent," " There remaineth yet
to be seen upon the heath the place of the smith's
tent, commonly called his forge, and the grave-hills
of such as were buried after the overthrow." The
Smith's Forge is a mound of earth partly surrounded
by fir-trees, to the south-west of Montagu Corner,
which is at the end of Chesterfield Walk. Down
to a comparatively recent date, this mound was
frequently called " Whitefield's Mount," from the
rircumstance of that celebrated preacher having
deHvered from it some of what are termed his
"field discourses." The spot seems also to have
been used in former times as a butt for artillery
practice ; for Evelyn in his " Diary," under date
of March i6, 1687, writes, " I saw a trial of those
develish, murdering, mischief-doing engines called
bombs, shot out of a mortar-piece on Blackheath.
The distance that they are cast, the destruction
[which] they make where they fall, is prodigious."

In 15 1 9, Cardinal Campegio, the Pope's Legate,
was received on Blackheath \vith great state by the
Duke of Norfolk, and a large retinue of bishops,
knights, and gentlemen, " all richly apparelled.''
His Eminence was conducted to a tent of cloth
of gold, "where," as Hall's "Chronicles" relate,
" he shifted himself into a robe of a cardinal, edged
with ermines, and so took his moyle [mule], riding
towards London. Soon afterwards, another pretty
sight was witnessed here, when Bonevet, High
Admiral of France, attended by a splendid caval-
cade of twelve hundred noblemen and gentlemen,
was met by the Earl of Surrey, as High .\dmiral of
England, with a still more gorgeous retinue. Hall
tells us how tliat "the young gallants of France
liad coats guarded with or colour, cut in ten or
twelve :)arts, very richly to behold ; and so all the
Englishmen coupled themselves with the French-
men lovingly together, and so rode tr London."

On the public entry of the Princess Anne of
Cleves, Henry VHL's new bride, she was met on
Blackheath on the 3rd of January, 1540, by the
king, accompanied by the lord mayor, aldermen,
and citizens of London, with all the foreign mer-
chants resident in the City, and escorted in grand
state to the royal palace at Greenwich. The old
chroniclers record how that on the eastern side of
the heath " was pitched a rich cloth of gold, and
divers other tents and pavilions, in tlic whicli were
made fires and perfumes for her and such ladies as
should receive her grace ; " and " from the tents to
the park gate .... a large and anii>le way
was made for the show of all persons." Along this
way were ranged the mayor and aldermen, citizens,
and foreign merchants, all in their richest liveries,
esquires, gentlemen, pensioners, and serving-men,

"well horsed and apparelled, that whosoever had
well viewed them might say that the)', for tall and
comely personages, and clean of limb and body,
were able to give the greatest prince in Christendom
a mortal breakfast if he were the king's enemy."
About mid-day Anne can^e down Shooter's Hill,
accompanied by the Dukc^ of Norfolk and Suflblk,
and a large number of oth'-r noblemen and bishops,
besides her own attendants, and was met and con-
ducted to licr tent by the lord chamberlain and
other officials. Magnificent as was the suite of
Anne, it seems to liave been outshone in splendour
by that of the king, while Henry himself, if we may
trust the description given in Hall's " Chronicles,"
was all ablaze with gold and jewellery. Here is
his portrait as sketched by the old chronicler : —
" Tlie king's highness was mounted on a goodly
courser, trapped in rich cloth of gold, traversed
lattice-wise square, all over embroidered with gold
of damask, pearled on every side of the embroidery ;
the buckles and pendants were all of fine gold.
His person was apparelled in a coat of purple
velvet, somewhat made like a frock, all over em-
broidered with flat gold of damask with small lace
mixed between of the same gold, and other laces
of the same so going traverse-wise, that the ground
little appeared : about which garment was a rich
guard very curiously embroidered ; the sleeves and
breast were cut, lined with cloth of gold, and tyed
together with great buttons of diamonds, rubies,
and orient pear! ; his sword and sword-girdle
adorned with stones and especial emerodes ; his
night-cap garnished with stone, but his bonnet was
so rich with j ;wels that few men could value them.
Beside all this, lie wore in baudrick-wise a collar of
such bal)'stjs and pearl that few men ever saw the
like . . . . And notwithstanding that this rich
apparel and ]5recious jewels were pleasant to the
nobles and all other being present to behold, yet
his princely countenance, his goodly personage,
and royal gesture so far exceeded all other crea-
tures being present, that in comparison of his
person, all his rich a[)parel was little esteemed."
The royal pair were conducted from Blackheath
to the palace at Greenwich by a procession of the
chief nobles, and afterwards conveyed in the grand
City barges, with the lord mayor and chief citizens,
to Westminster, where they were married ; a few
months -ifter, they were divorced ; and on the 8th
of August of the same year, Catherine Howard,,
to whom the king had been some time privately
married, was jMiblicly declared Queen of England.
On May-day, in the year 1645, Colonel Blunt,
in order to gratify the Kentish people, who were
partial 10 old customs, drew up two regiments of

Bbckhcatll.l

BLACKHEATH FAIR.

227

foot, and exercised them on the heath, represent-
ing a mock fight between the CavaHers and the
Roundheads.

One of the most memorable scenes witnessed
on Blackheath, however, was the arrival here of
Charles II., on his Restoration, on the 29th of
May, 1660, whilst on his way from Rochester to
London, "all the ways thither," says Clarendon,
" being so full of people, as if the whole kingdom
had been gathered there." Macaulay, in his
" History of England," gives us the following
striking description of the king's reception here :
— " Everywhere flags were flying, bells and music
sounding, wine and ale flowing in rivers to the
health of him whose return was the return of
peace, of law, and of freedom. But in the midst
of the general joy, one spot presented a dark and
threatening aspect. On Blackheath the army was
drawn up to welcome the sovereign. He smiled,
bowed, and extended his hand graciously to the
lips of the colonels and majors. But all his
courtesy was vain. The countenances of the
soldiers were sad and lowering ; and, had they
given way to their feelings, the festive pageant of
which they reluctantly made a part would have
had a mournful and bloody end."

Numerous reviews, &c., of militia and other
troops have, at various times, been held on Black-
lieath. Under date of June 10, 1673, Evelyn
writes in his "Diary:" — "We went after dinner
to see the formal and formidable camp on Black-
heath, raised to invade Holland, or, as others
suspected, for another designe."

Blackheath Fair was a celebrated place of resort
every year in the months of May and October ;
and, like its neighbours at Greenwich, Peckham,
and Cambervvell, was always well supplied with
startling monsters, with some of which we have
since been familiarised by our Zoological Gardens.
These fairs were first established by Lord Dart-
mouth, as we learn from the following entry in
Evelyn's "Diary:" — "May i, 1683. I went to
Blackheath to see the new faire, being the first,
I)rocured by Lord Dartmouth. This was the first
day, pretended for the sale of cattle, but I think,
in truth, to enrich the new tavern at the bowling-
greene, erected by Snape, his Majesty's farrier, a
man full of projects. There appeared nothing but
an innumerable assembly of drinking people from
London, pedlars, &c. ; and I suppose it is too neere
London to be of any greate use to the country."

In " Merrie England in the Olden Time " is
printed the following announcement of the ex-
hibition of one of the " strange monsters " above
referred to :—

Geo. II. R.
This is to give notice to all gentlemen, ladies, and others,
That there is to be seen from eight in the morning till nine
at night, at the end of the great booth on Blackheath, a West
of England woman 38 years of age, alive, with two heads,
one above the other ; having no hands, fingers, nor toes ; yet
can she dress or undress, knit, sew, read, sing [Query — a
duet with her two mouths ? ]. She has had the honour to be
seen by Sir Hans Sloane, and several of the Royal Society.

N.B. — Gentlemen and ladies may see her at their own
houses if they please. This great wonder never was shown
in England before this, the 13th day of May, 1741. Vivat
Re.\ !

The author of the above-mentioned work adds,
as a foot-note, "That the caricaturist has been out-
caricatured by Nature no one will deny. Wilkes
was so abominably ugly that he said it always
took him half an hour to talk away his face ; and
Mirabeau, speaking of his own countenance, said,
' Fancy a tiger marked with the small-pox ! ' We
have seen an Adonis contemplate one of Cruik-
shank's whimsical figures, of which his particular
shanks were the doia-idea], and rail at the artist for
libelling Dame Nature ! How ill-favoured were
Lord Lovat, Magliabecchi, Scarron, and tlie wall-
eyed, bottle-nosed Buckhorse the Bruiser ! how
deformed and frightful Sir Harry Dimsdale and
Sir Jeftry Dunstan ! What would have been said
of the painter of imaginarj' Siamese twins ? Yet
we have ' The true description of two Monstrous
Children, born in the parish of Swanburne, in
Buckinghamshyre, the 4th of Aprill, Anno Domini
1566 ; the two Children having both their belies
fast joyned together, and imbracing one another
with their armes ; which Children were both alyve
by the space of half an hower, and were bap-
tised, and named the one John, and the other
Joan.' A similar wonder was exhibited in Queen
Anne's reign, viz., ' Two monstrous girls, born in
the kingdom of Hungary,' which were to be seen
' from 8 o'clock in the morning till 8 at night, up
one pair of stairs, at Mr. William Suttclift''s, a
Drugster's Shop, at the sign of the Golden Anchor,
in the Strand, near Charing Cross.' The Siamese
twins of our own time are fresh in every one's
memory. Shakespeare throws out a pleasant
sarcasm at the characteristic curiosity of the
English nation. Trinculo, upon first beholding
Caliban, exclaims, 'A strange fish! were I in
England now (as I once was), and had but this
fish painted, not a holiday fool there but would
give a piece of silver ; there would this monster
make a man : when they will not give a doit to
relieve a lame beggar, they will lay out ten to see
a dead Indian.' "

Blackheath Fair lasted, till a very recent date,
as a " hog and pleasure " fair — being held on the

2 2S

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

(Blackheath.

i2th of May and nth of October — till the year
1872, when it was suppressed by order of the
Government ; and the swings, roundabouts, spiced
gingerbread, penny trumpets, and halfpenny rattles
have now become things of the past.

From the early part of the present century, down
to the year 1S65, a considerable part of the surface
of Blackheath had been greatly disturbed and cut
up, owing to the Crown having let, for a rental of

resort of highwaymen. Under the Reform Bill of
1832, it was made one of the polling places for
members of Parliament for the western division
of Kent. Of late the heath has been built up to,
wherever land was available. On the south side,
near Tranquil Vale, stands All Saints' Church, a
neat Gothic edifice, erected in the year 1859, from
the designs of Mr. B. Ferrey. The village, or —
as it is beginning to call itself — town of Black-

^56, the right to excavate an unlimited quantity
of gravel. All these, and other such encroach-
ments, however, were brought to an end by the
Metropolitan Commons .'\ct of 1.S66, when Black-
heath was secured to tlie public as a place of
healthful recreation. During the summer months
the heat!i is largely resorted to by holiday-makers,
and, like Hampstead Heath, it is much infested
with donkeys ; but owing to the stringent bye-laws
that have been passed of late years, the donkey-
drivers are not the nuisance that once they were.
Cricket matches take place here in the summer ;
the Royal Blackheath Golf Club also use the heath
as their play-ground, and in winter a well-contested
match at fool-ball may often he witnessed here.
In the last century Blackheath v/as a notorious

heath, is built chiefly about Tranquil Vale ; it has
its churches and chapels, assembly-rooms, railway
station, tennis-lawn, banks, besides several good
shops. At the end of the heath, near P' khcath
Hill, is another collection of shops and dwellings,
with a church and schools ; here, too, is the
principal inn, the " Gre'en Man," well known to
holiday-makers. In former times there was a
house of entertainment here, called the " Chocolate
House ;" it is mentioned by the Duke of Rich-
mond, Master-General of the Ordnance, in a private
letter ; and it would seem to have been largely
patronised by the heads of Woolwich Dockyard
and the college hard by, and by their friends. The
name of this house was long kept in memory
by " Chocolate Row." Lord Wrotteslcy had an

Blackhealh.J

THE ORIGINAL "POLLY PEACHUM."

229

observatory on Blackheath for some time, previous
to his accession to the title, when he removed the
astronomical apparatus to his seat in Stafifordshire.
The Manor of East Combe, which lies near the
Charlton Road, on the north-eastern side of the
heath, was appended for several centuries to that
of Greenwich, and was settled, in 16 13, on Queen
Anne of Denmark for life. It was afterwards
leased out by the Crown, and has since been held

resided here for several years with Lavinia Fenton
(the original " Polly Peachum " in the burletta of
the Bexar's Opera), whom he married after the
death of his duchess, in 1751 — twenty-three years
after he had taken her from the stage. Of this
lady, Lysons, in his " Environs of London," gives
the following particulars: — "The year 1728 is
famous in theatrical annals, for having produced
the favourite burletta of the Beggar's Opera. Its

Iiili •■ GRlitN MAN, BLACKHEATH.

by several private families ; in the early jiart of
the present century it was the seat of the Countess
of Buckinghamshire. A little to the vi'est, and
near the north-east corner of Blackheath, is West
Coombe, the manor-house of which was at one time
the residence of William Lambarde, the learned
antiquary, and author of the " Perambulation of
Kent," who died there in 1601. Early in the last
century the estate was purchased by Sir Gregory
Page, who soon afterwards granted a lease of the
house to Captain Galfridus Walpole. This gentle-
man pulled down the old manor-house, and erected
the present mansion at a short distance from the
original site, from, it is said, the designs of the Earl
of Pembroke. The lease came afterwards into
the possession of Charles, Duke of Bolton, who
260

success surpassed all precedent : it was acted more
than sixty nights during the first season. The part
of ' Polly ' was performed by Lavinia Fenton, a
young actress, whose real name, in some of the
publications of that day, is said to have been
Beswick. Her performance of this character raised
her very high in the opinion of the public ; and it
is uncertain whether the opera itself, or ' Polly
Peachum,' had the greater share of popularity.
Her lovers, of course, were very numerous : she
decided in favour of the Duke of Bolton, who,
to the great loss of the public, took her from
the stage, to which she never returned ; and on
the sixty-second night of the performance, a new
' Polly ' was, to the great surprise of the audience,
who expected to see their old favourite, introduced

230

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Blackheath.

on the boards. After the death of his first wife,
from wliom he had been iong separated, the duke,
in 1751, married Miss Fenlon, who, surviving him
a few years, resided at A\'est Coombe Park, m this
parish, and died Duchess-dowager of Bolton, in
the month of January, 1760." We have aheady
spoken of her interment in Greenwich Church in a
previous chapter.

Between East and West Coombe, in the Charlton
Road, is Woodlands, long the residence of the
Angersteins. The mansion was erected and the
grounds laid out about the year 1770; they
command a beautiful view of the valley of the
Thames and the opposite coast of Esse.x. Here,
in 1823, died Mr. John J. Angerstein, whose
splendid collection of pictures — of which Waagen
gives an account in his " Art and Artists " in
England — formed the nucleus of our National
Gallery.* Caroline, Princess of Whales, resided
here for a short time. In a letter from Geneva,
dated May 20, 1820, she tells Miss Berry that she
shall go to " the Maison Angerstein a Blackheath "
on her return to England. St. John's Church, in
Charlton Lane, was built at the cost of the late
Mr. W. Angerstein.

In former times, apparently, Blackheath was not
considered an aristocratic neighbourhood ; at all
events, Horace Walpole contrasts the genealogies
of illustrious families with those of the denizens of
" Paddington and Blackheath," whom he classes
epigranimatically together. Nevertheless, the place
seems to have improved as time wore on, for from
about 1797 to 1814, the Princess Caroline, the
much-injured but foolish and frivolous Consort of
George IV., was living here at Montagu House.
This was after the birth of her child, the Princess
Charlotte, whom she saw once every week at
the house of the Duchess of Brunswick, close by.
"The princess's villa at Blackheath," wrote Miss
Aikin, " is an incongruous piece of jjatcliwork ;
it may dazzle for a moment when lighted up at
night, but it is all glitter, and glare, and trick ;
everj'thing is tinsel and trumpery about it; it
is altogether like a bad dream. One day the
princess showed me a large book in which she had
written characters of a great many of the leading
persons in England ; she read me some of them ;
they were drawn with spirit, but I could not form
any opinion of their justice."

"About this time" (181 1), writes the Hon.
Miss Amelia Murray in her " Recollections,"
" there was an extravagant furore in the cause of
tile I'rincess of Wales. She was considered an

• Sec Vol. in , p. MS-

ill-treated w-oman, and that was enough to rouse
popular feeling. My brother was among the young
men who helped to give her an ovation at the
opera. A few days afterwards he went to break-
fast at a place near AVoohvich. There he saw the
princess in a gorgeous dress, wiiich was looped up
to show her petticoat covered with stars, and with
silver wings on her shoulders, sitting under a tree
with a pot of porter on her knee ; and as a finalt
to the gaiety, she had the doors opened of every
room in the house, and selecting a partner, she
galloped through them, desiring all the guests to
copy her example. It may be guessed," adds the
writer, " whether the gentlemen were anxious to
clap her at the opera again."

The pious Robert Nelson was living here in 1 702.
Here, too, was living the celebrated Mrs. Mary
Anne Clarke when she first made the acquaintance
of the Duke of York. She was the daughter of a
journeyman-printer, named Farquhar, who lived in
a court north of Fetter Lane, though Cyrus Redding
affirms that she was the daugliter of a Colonel
Frederick, and granddaughter of Theodore, King of
Corsica. A parliamentary inquiry in 1S09 brought
to light the extent to which she and the duke had
trafficked in the sale of commissions in the army ;
although nominally acquitted of that offence, the
duke had to retire from the post of Commander-m-
chief.

Flaxman, the sculptor, w^hen tired of his town
rooms near Buckingham Gate, would take country
lodgings on Blackheath ; Crabb Robinson tells us
in his "Diary" that he visited him here in t8i3.

From the north-eastern corner of Blackheatli, a
somewhat steep and winding road, called Maze
Hill, leads down to East Greenwich. On this hill,
nearly opposite the eastern gate of Greenwich Park,
w'hich opens upon the pathway leading to One-
Tree Hill, stands an irregular castellated brick-
built structure, called " Vanbrugh Castle." It
stands on the Page-Turner estate, and was erected,
about the year 1717, by Sir John Vanbrugh. It
is entered by an embattled gateway, profusely
overgrown with ivy; the "castle" itself is a large
red-brick building, resembling a fortification, with
battlements and towers. The edifice, which has
for some years been used as a ladies' boarding-
school, was in former times called the " Bastille,"
from a fancied resemblance to its prototype at
Paris. At a .short distance from this building are
the Vanbrugh Firlds, in wiiich is another singular-
looking house, also built by Vanbrugh, and still
called after his name. It was at one time called
the " Mince-pie House," doubtless having been
used as a place of public entertainment. An arched

Charlton.]

CHARLTON HOUSE.

231

gateway, with a lodge on each side, now standing
some distance within the principal field, appears to
have formed the original entrance from the heath.
Vanbnigh House is a brick building, ornamented
with raised bands : it has a round tower at either
end, and a central porch.

Passing along Charlton Road, which runs east-
ward from Vanbrugh Park, a short walk brings us
to the pretty little village of that name, which
stands on the high ground between Greenwich and
Woolwich, and has a charming look-out over the
valley of the Thames. Here we find ourselves
upon the chalky soil of Kent; and although the
place has within the last few years lost much of its
rural character, through the gradual extension of
buildings, it is still green and pleasant. In this
neighbourhood, if we may believe the Gentieman^s
Magazine, in 1734, a large eagle was captured, and,
strange to say,, by a tailor. Its wings, when ex-
panded, were three yards eight inches in length.
It was claimed by the lord of the manor, but was
afterwards demanded by the king's falconer as a
royal bird, and carried off to Court. Its subse-
quent fate is not recorded.

In Philipott's " Survey of Kent " (1659) we find
that Charlton was " anciently written Ceorlton, that
is, the town' inhabited with honest, good, stout,
and usefull men, for tillage and countrye business ; "
the Sa.xon word ceorl signifying a husbandman, or
churl, as it is termed in old English, whence
Churlestown or Charlestown was easily derived,
and so by abridgment Charlton.

The church, a red brick-built edifice, dedicated
to St. Luke, has a lofty embattled tower, which
serves as a landmark for those who sail up or
down the river. It has a double roof, supported
by pillars, forming arches down the centre of the
building. The edifice was erected by the trustees
of Sir Adam Newton, in 1630-40. The chancel
was added by the rector in 1840; in it is a hand-
some stained-glass window. Among the monu-
ments in this church is one for the Hon. Brigadier
Michael Richards, Surveyor-General of the Ord-
nance, who died in 1721 ; he is represented by a
life-size figure of a man in armour, holding a
truncheon in his right hand, with military trophies,
&c. A marble statue, by the younger Westmacott,
commemorates Sir Thomas Hislop, G.C.B., who
died in 1834; and there is also a monument to
Sir William Congreve, the inventor of the rockets
which bear his name: he died in 1814. A neat
tablet by Chantrey records the interment in the
\aults below of the Right Hon. Spencer Perceval,
the Prime Minister, who was assassinated by John
Bellingham, in the lobby of the House of Com-

mons,* on the nth of May, 1812. In the church-
yard, close by the porch, lies buried Mr. Edward

j Drummond, who was shot in the neighbourhood
of the Houses of Parliament, in January, 1843,
ui mistake for Sir Robert Peel, the then Prime

j Minister, whose private secretary he was. Here,
too, is buried James Craggs, Postmaster-General,
and father of Pope's friend, Mr. Secretary Craggs,
who, in consequence of the scandal occasioned by
their connection with the South Sea Bubble, de-
stroyed himself by poison in March, 1721 ; there
is a monument to his memory in Westminster
Abbey, t

Immediately to the south of the church stands
Charlton House, the seat of the lord of the manor,
Sir Spencer Maryon-Wilson. The manor of Charl-
ton was given by William the Conqueror to his
half-brother Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, from whom it
passed to Robert Bloet, Bishop of Lincoln, who,
about the end of the eleventh century, gave it to
the priory of St. Saviour's, Bermondsey. Having
reverted to the Crown at the Dissolution, it was
given by James I. to one of his Northern followers,
John, Earl of Mar, by whom it was sold in 1606
to Sir James Erskine, who, in turn, disposed of it
in the following year to Sir Adam Newton, Dean
of Durham, tutor to Henry, Prince of Wales. In
1659 it passed to Sir William Ducie, afterwards
Viscount Downe, and subsequently it was owned
successively by the Langhornes, Games, and
Maryons, and also by Lady Spencer Wilson, from
whom it has descended to the present owner. The
mansion, which Evelyn describes as " a faire house
built for Prince Henry," is pleasantly situated in
extensive park-like grounds ; it was commenced
by Sir Adam Newton in 1607, and completed in
about five years. The house is very pleasantly
situated on rising ground overlooking the Thames
and the opposite shores of Essex, and commands
a most delightful prospect, which has been de-
scribed by Evelyn as " one of the most noble in
the world for city, river, ships, meadows, hill,
woods, and all other amenities" — a prospect, by
the way, which has been considerably abridged of
late years by the growth of the surrounding trees.
Its situation might indeed well recall to memory
those charming lines by Mrs. Hemans, descriptive
of the halls of our old nobility : —

" The stately homes of England,
How beautiful they stand !
Amid their tall ancestral trees.
All o'er the pleasant land."

The mansion is certainly one of the finest speci-

* See Vol. III., p. 530.

t See Vol. III., p. 417.

232

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Charlton.

mens extant of the domestic architecture of the
time of James L, having been erected when the
architecture then in vogue was about to be supple-
mented by what was then tliought to be a purer
style. \\'hen first erected, its appearance must
have formed a striking contrast to the more sombre
structures of a preceding age. Red brick — so
popular in that era — is the material used in its
construction ; this, however, is relieved with white
stone quoins and dressings, and muUioned windows.
Its form is an oblong, with slightly projecting
wings at each end. The centre of the principal
front also projects, but to a less extent than the
wings ; this compartment has a richly decorated
porch, and is entirely of stone. The principal
ornamentation of the exterior appears to have been
bestowed on this central projection ; the arched
doorway has plain double columns of the Corinthian
order on each side, whilst above it there is a niche
containing the bust of a female figure. The first
storey has quaintly-carved columns on either side
of its muUioned window, and over it a series of
grotesquely sculptured brackets. To this succeeds
another storey, with another row^ of similar brackets.
Along the entire front is carried an open stone
balustrade of somewhat peculiar character, and at
each end of the building there is a small square
turret, surmounted by a cupola, one of which con-
tains a clock.

The entrance-hall is spacious and oak-panelled,
with a gallery at the western end of a comparatively
recent date ; whilst a deep central pendant hanging
from the ceiling adds considerably to the general
ornamentation. At the bottom of the grand stair-
case is the dining-room, a very handsome apart-
ment, the side of which overlooks the garden and
forms a kind of arcade, separated from the room
by a row of elegant marble columns with semi-
circular arches. Adjoining the dining-room, and
occujiying tjie north-cast angle of the building, is a
small chapel, dedicated to St. James. The apart-
ment— for it can hardly be called by any other
name — is furnished in accordance with the rest of
the building; each side is occupied by a row of
l)ews, and in the recess formed by tlie bay-window
at the eastern end is the communion-table, enclosed
by a wooden raiHng. In the centre of the chapel
is a curious font, the circumference of whicli is
almost equal to that of a quart basin. Tiie ancient
doors of both the chapel and the dining-room are
elaborately carved in oak, and ornamented with
bright steel hinges and fastenings.

The upper floors are reached by a spacious
and richly-ornamented staircase of chestnut, its
arabesque balusters being surmounted by capitals

of the Tuscan, Ionic, and Corinthian orders, and
also the armorial bearings of the Wilson family,
supported by a w^olf, whilst the walls are enriched
with arabesque mouldings, mtermixed with fruit and
flowers. The principal or '• state " apartments are
situated upon the second floor. The first of these,
which is entered from the grand staircase, is the
gallery (seventy-six feet in length), extending the
whole depth of the house. The walls of this room
are wainscoted with oak, the ceiling is elaborately
moulded with arabesque ornamentation ; and in
the bay-windows at either end are stained-glass
armorial bearings of the Ducies (former owners of
Charlton) and their alliances. In the room ad-
joining the gallery, called the north sitting-room,
the ceiling of which is also very rich, is a most
elaborately carved chimney-piece, representing the
mythological story of Medusa, beneath which are
two allegorical basso-relievos. From this room
we enter the saloon, a lofty and well-proportioned
apartment, lighted at either end by large muUioned
windows ; in the ceilins; of one of the recesses are
the royal arms of James I., the ostrich feathers —
the cognisance of the Prince of Wales — occupy-
ing a similar position opposite. This room has
some highly-wrought marble chimney-pieces, and its
ceiling is likewise enriched with arabesque orna-
mentation, intermixed with fruit and flowers, and
decorated with elaborate pendants. In the room
next entered, called the south sitting-room, it is
' traditionally related, on the authority of Dr. Plot,
' that the marble chimney-piece — a very handsome
piece of workmanship m black marble — was so
I exquisitely polished, that Lord Downe, one of the
former owners of the mansion, " did see in it the
reflection of a robbery committed on Blackheath,
wliereujjon, sending out his servants, the thieves
! were taken."

Interspersed throughout the various rooms are
some choice works of art, and also a very fair col-
lection of family portraits ; and one of the out-
buildings, at a short distance from tlie house, has
been converted into a museum, in which are
several interesting objects of natural history, chiefly
brought together by Lady Wilson, but greatly aug-
mented by the late Sir Thomas Maryon-^\'ilson
during his travels in the north and soutii of
Europe.

The park, although containing but about one
hundred acres, is well timbered witli trees of mag-
nificent growth, among which are several venerable
yews ; whilst the ganlens are laid out with con-
siderable taste, and abound in slirubs and plants,
both native and foreign. In the grounds in front of
the mansion is a picturesque building of rod brick,

CharUon.]

"HORN FAIR."

233

said to have been originally erected as a " drinking !
house," but now made use of as an orangery.
Until very recently, this structure had been for ^
several years overshadowed by a solitary cypress- '
tree, the only one at that time remaining of a long
row mentioned by Evelyn as having adorned the
front of the mansion, and which Hasted refers to
as seeming '• to be of great age, and perhaps the I
oldest in England.'' The ancient gateway, imme-
diately in front of the prmcipal entrance, has long
been disused. The mansion is presumed to have
been erected from the designs of Inigo Jones, who
resided for some time in a house, said to be still
standing, in the immediate neighbourhood ; and
from the fact of the principal apartments being
situated on the second floor, it is inferred that it
was built shortly after the return of that celebrated
architect from Italy, where the state apartments are
usually placed upon the uppermost storey.

Henry III. granted to Charlton a market and
also a fair, both of which appear to have been
given up prior to the middle of the seventeenth
century. Notwithstanding the discontinuance of
the fair, the village had been for ages, until late in
the last century, famous for a " disorderly fair "
held there on St. Luke's day, October 18. It was
called " Horn Fair," according to Philipott, " by
reason of the great plentie of all sorts of winding
homes and cups and other vessels of home there
brought to be sold." Concerning the origin of this
fair there are several wild traditions, but that most
usually accepted is that it was held to keep in
remembrance the little episode between King John
and the miller's wife, of which we have already
given the details in dealing with Cuckold's Point.*
Mr. S. C. Hall, however, in his " Baronial Halls,"
observes that the more probable origin of the
term "horn fair" is that it was symbolic of the o\
of St. Luke, by which he is usually distinguished
in ancient paintings. The fair was formerly held
upon a green opposite the church, and facing
Charlton House ; but this piece of ground having
some years ago been enclosed so as to form part
of the gardens belonging to the mansion, the fair
was subsequently held in a private field at the ;
other end of the village, under the auspices of
a few speculative publicans. During the reign
of Charles II. it was a carnival of the most unre-
strained kind, and those frequenting it from London
used to proceed thither in boats, "disguised as
kings, queens, millers, &c., with horns on their
heads ; and men dressed as females, who formed in
procession and marched round the church and

* See arife, p. 142.

fair." Nicholas Breton, in a poem published in
1612, entitled " Pasquils Nightcap, or Antidote
for the Headache," gives an amusing account of
these annual gatherings, which shows that they
were held in great pomp, and with an immense
concourse of people, all of whom

" In comely sort their foreheads did adornc
With goodly coronets of hardy home ; "

but the decadence of this ancient custom was at
that time evidently anticipated, for Breton ends his
poem by indignantly telling us that —

" Long time this solemne custome was observ'd.

And Kentish-men with others met to feast ;

But latter times are from old fashions swerv'd,

And grown repugnant to this good behest.
For now ungratefull men these meetings scorn,
And thanklesse prove to Fortune and the horn ;
For onely now is l;ept a poor goose fair,
Where none but meaner people doe repaire."

The reader, of course, will not have forgotten
the mysteries attached to " swearing in " on the
horns at Highgate, of which we have already
spoken at some length. t

In " Merrie England in the Olden Time " we
read that " at Horn Fair, a party of humorists of
both sexes (query, of either se.\) cornuted in all the
variety of bull-feather fashion, after perambulating
round Cuckold's Point, startled the little quiet
village of Charlton on St. Luke's Day, shouting
their emulation, and blowing voluntaries on rams'
horns, in honour of their patron saint." Ned Ward
gives a curious picture of this odd ceremony, and
the press of Stonecutter Street (the worthy suc-
cessor of Aldermary churchyard) has consigned it
to immortality in two broadsides — " A New Sum-
mons to all the Merry (Wagtail) Jades to attend at
Horn Fair," and " A New Summons to Horn Fair,"
both without a date, inspired by the Helicon of the
Fleet —

" Around whose brink
Bards rush in droves like cart-horses to drink,
Dip their dark beards among its streams so clear,
And while they gulp it, wish it ale or beer."

Leaving Charlton House behind us, and pur-
suing a south-western course, we make our way to
the southern side of the Great Dover Road after it
crosses Blackheath. Here we pass, at a short
distance on our left, the steep ascent of Shooter's
Hill, which, as Philipott writes, was " so called for
the thievery there practised, where travellers in
early times were so much infested with depreda-
tions and bloody mischiefs, that order was taken in
the sixth year of Richard II., for the enlarging the
highway, according to the statute made in the time

t See Vol. v.. p 416.

234

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

IBlaclcheath.

of King Edward L, so that they venture still to
rob here by prescription." The road continued a
steep and narrow thoroughfare, closed in by thick
woods — a convenient harbour for highwa}men —
down till about the year 1733, when, as Hasted
informs us, " a road of easier ascent and of great
width was laid out at some distance from the old
one;" but still the highwaymen lingered about the
neighbourhood, and consequently the hill main-

rather abruptly — if there be any truth in the poet's
words which follow — by the sudden attack of a
highwayman.

For the discouragement of these knights of the
road the usual methods were adopted here ; and in
former times Shooter's Hill was seldom without
the ornament of a gibbet Pepys tells us in his
"Diary," under date of April 11, 1661, how that of
all the journeys he ever made, " this [tiom Dartford

VANliRUGU CASTLE.

tained its reputation long after the new road was
made. Byron has rendered the spot familiar to
his readers by his description of the jjrospcct from
the summit of the hill looking towards London —

" A mighty mass of brick, and smoke, and shipping.

Dirty .ind dusky, but as wide as eye
Could reach, with here and there a s.nil just skipping

In sight, then lost amidst ihi' forestry
Of masts; a wilderness of steeples peeping

On tip-toe through their sea-coal canopy ;
A huge dim cupola, like a ff)oIscap crown

On a fool's he.id — and there is London town."

Here, too, |)robably, was the scene of Don Juan's
musings on the morality, or immorality, of "the
great city" — "Here arc ])urc wives, safe lives;"
a reverie which was destined to be broken off

to London] was the merriest. . . . Amongst other
things," he adds, " I got my lady to let her maid,
Mrs. Anne, ride all the way on horseback. . . .
Mrs. Anne and I rode under the man that hangs
upon Shooter's Hill, and a filthy sight it was to
see how his flesh i.s shrunk to his bones." With
the improved condition of the times in which we
live, however, an end came some years ago to
the practice of the highwaymen ; but a somewhat
ludicrous attempt at its revival was made in the
year 1877, and in this very neighbourhood, with
some little success ; but the young ruthans having
been brought to justice, it is to be hoped that
henceforth the midnight wayfarer may proceed
on his way over Blackheath or Shooter's Hill in
security.

236

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Eltham,

On the western slope of the hill, close by the
road leading to Eltham, stands the hospital for the
Woolwich garrison, called the Herbert Hospital,
after Mr. Sidney Herbert, afterwards Lord Herbert
of Lea. The building was erected in 1866, from
the designs of Captain Galton, R.E., during the
period when Lord Herbert was Secretary of State
for War. It is constructed on the pavilion system,
and comprises six parallel blocks, in which are
the hospital wards, providing accommodation for
between 600 and 700 patients. Un the summit of
the hill beyond we just catch a glimpse of Severn-
droog Castle, which was erected by Lady James,
ill 1784, in commemoration of the gallantry of her
husband, Sir William James, who died in the pre-
ceding year, " and in a peculiar manner to record
the conquest of the Castle of Severndroog, on the
coast of ALalabar, which fell to his superior valour
and able conduct on the 2nd day of April, 1755."
The castle is a triangular brick edifice, of three
floors, with turrets at the angles, and contains a
few specimens of armour, weapons, &c., captured
at Severndroog.

Since the close of the last century considerable
progress has been made in the erection of villas in
the immediate neighbourhood of Blackheath, par-
ticularly in that part lying to the south-east, known
as Blacklieath Park. This park forms an estate
anciently called Witenemers, or Wricklesmarsh,
which during the reign of William the Conqueror
formed part of the possessions of Odo, Bishop of
Bayeux. At the close of the seventeenth century
it came into the possession of Sir John Morden,
the founder of Morden College, who, dying in
1708, bequeathed the estate to his widow. Soon
after Lady Morden's death, in 1721, it was sold to
Sir Gregory Page, who pulled down the old house
and erected a large edifice of stone, consisting of a
centre and two wings, united by a colonnade ; and

this mansion is described in the " Ambulator " for
1774 as "very magnificent, and one of the finest
seats in England belonging to a private gentleman."
The writer enters into almost as many details about
it, and the picture-gallery which it contained, as he
does in describing Lord Burlington's mansion at
Chiswick ; and the catalogue of the paintmgs alone
occupies three pages. On the death of Sir Gregory
Page, the mansion and estate passed to a great-
nephew, who sold the estate, and the house was
soon after pulled down.

At the south-east extremity of Blackheath, but
in Charlton parish, is Morden College, so named
from its founder. Sir John Morden, a wealthy
Turkey merchant, mentioned above. He erected
this structure in Great Stone Field, near his own
residence, in 1695, and placed in it, during his life-
time, twelve decayed merchants ; and by his will
(dated October 15, 1702) devised all his real and
copyhold estates, after the decease of Lady Morden,
to the Turkey Company, in trust, for the support
of this college, and for the maintenance of poor,
aged, and decayed merchants of England, " whose
fortunes had been ruined by tiie perils of the sea,
or other unavoidable accidents." The premises
occupy a spacious (juadrangle, and are built of
brick, with stone quoins and cornices. There is
a lofty entrance gateway, and the lodgings of the
inmates, dining-hall, and chapel form a quadrangle.
Over the entrance are statues of the founder and
his wife. The college provides a comfortable home,
including lodging, maintenance, and attendance, for
about forty pensioners, who have each an annual
stipend of ;^72.

From the grounds attached to Morden College
a walk of a mile and a half by the footpath by
Kidbrook Church, and across some pleasant fields,
brings us to Eltham, which will be the limit of our
perambulation in this direction.

CHAPTER XVIIL

EI.TIIAM, LEE, .\N1) LFAVISHAM.

" Slant ibi rcgihco construct,! pa1at!a luxu." — Gz<ut.

Situation and Derivation of the Name of Eltham— Descent of the Manor — The Palace— Henry III. kteps his Christmas here — Edward II. and
his Court— John, King of France — Richard II. and Anne of Bohemia — Froissart here presents the King with a Copy of his Works-
Henry IV. and his Court- Royal Christmas Festivities— Eltham Palace abandoned by the Court — The Palace during the Civil Wars-
Dismantling of the Parks— Description of the Palace— Sale of the Middle Park Stud of Racehorses— Ehliam Church- Well Hall— Lee—
Lewisham — Hither Green, Catford, and Ladywell— Loam Pit Hill — New Cross — Royal Naval Schools— II;uchani.

l',i.Tii.\.M is situated on the high road leading from
London to the Grays, and thence to Maidstone,
at a distance of about two miles south-eastward
from Greenwich. The place was anciently called

Eald-ham (the old liome or dwelling-place), and
was formerly a market town of considerable im-
portance ; the markets, however, were discontinued
tciiij>. James L, shortly after the jialace ceased to

Eltham.]

A CAPTIVE KING.

237

be used as a royal residence. The manor, in
the time of Edward the Confessor, belonged to
the Crown, of whom it was held by one Alwold.
William the Conqueror granted it, together with
many other estates in the county of Kent, to his
half-brolher, Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, Earl of Kent ;
and at the time of the Domesday survey it was
held of him by Hamo, Sheriff' of Kent. On the
confiscation of Odo's estates, however, some four
years later, this manor reverted to the Crown, and,
becoming divided, one part of it was retained by
the sovereign, and the other part v/as given to
the family of De Mandeville, whence the place
obtained the name of Eltham Mandeville. The
part held by the Crown was afterwards granted by
Edward I. to John de Vesci, Lord of Eltham, who
subsequently obtained the whole by e.\change with
Walter de Mandeville.

The manor was afterwards granted to Anthony
Bee, Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem,
to hold in trust for his natural son, who was called
William de Vesci, of Kildare. Through a betrayal
of the trust reposed in him, however, the bishop,
on the death of the last Lord de Vesci, appears
to have obtained possession of the estates, and
to have expended large sums on the buildings at
Eltham. He died here in the year 131 1, having
bestowed the estate on Queen Eleanor, the consort
of Edward I. The manor was next granted to
Sir Gilbert de Aton, and afterwards to Geoffrey le
Scrope, to hold by the accustomed services. It
subsequently again reverted to the Crown, having,
it is said, been given to Queen Isabella, consort of
Edward II. It has remained in the possession of
the Crown since that period, having been occa-
sionally granted for terms of years on lease to
various persons. It may be mentioned that the
title of Lord Eltham has been more than once
refused to individuals who were anxious to assume
it on being raised to the peerage, on the express
ground that the Barony of Ekham belongs to the
sovereign. The precise date of the erection of
a palace here is quite a matter of uncertainty ;
the earliest mention of it by our old historians
as a royal residence is in the continuation of the
" Historia Major" of Matthev.' of Paris, ascribed
to William Rishanger, a monk of St. Albans, who
brought it from the year 1259 down to the close of
the reign of Henry III. Lambarde's allusion to
this work runs as follows : — " King Henrie the
Third (saith Mat. Parise), toward the latter ende of
his reigne (1270), kept a Royall Christmas (as the
manner then was) at Eltham, being accompanied
with his Queene and Nobilitie : and this (belike)
was the first warming of the house (as I may call

it) after that the Bishop had finished his worke.
For I doe not hereby gather that hitherto the king
had any propertie in it, for as much as the Princes
in those daies used commonly both to soiourne for
their pleasures, and to passe their set solemnities
also, in Abbaies and in Bishops' houses."

In 1315, the queen having taken up her resi-
dence at Eltham Palace, there gave birth to a son,
who was called, from the place of his nativity, John
of Eltham, and who was afterwards created Earl
of Cornwall. Edward II. frequently resided at
Eltham, and in 1329 and 1375 Edward III. held
his parliament here ; and it was at the last-men-
tioned period that a petition was presented by the
Commons, requesting the king to make his grand-
son, Richard, Prince of Wales. In 1347 tlie Duke
of Clarence, the king's son, in the absence of his
father, kept a public Christmas here.

In 1364, John, King of France, Edward III.'s
prisoner by conquest, came as an unwilling guest
to England, and was entertained by the king and
queen at Eltham. Froissart mentions how that
on a Sunday afternoon King Edward and Queen
Philippa waited at the gates of the palace to receive
the fallen monarch, and how, " between that time
and supper, in his honour were many grand dances
and carols, at which the young Lord de Courcy
distinguished himself by singing and dancing."
This entertainment must have appeared strange
indeed to the feelings of the captive prince, who,
when asked to join in the conviviality, pathetically
replied, " How can I sing in a strange land ? ''
Captive as he was, he seems to have had but litde
cause for regret on his own account, for, becoming
enamoured of the Princess Royal, he urged his
suit, and was fortunate enough to succeed in ob-
taining her as his bride.

Eltham Palace was one of the favourite resi-
dences of Richard II. and Anne of Bohemia. In
Holinshed's " Chronicles," under date of 1386, it
is recorded that " King Richard II. holding his
Christmasse at Eltham, thither came to him Leo,
King of Armenia, whose countrie and realme being
in danger to be conquered of the Turks, he was
come into these west parts of Christendome for aid
and succour at the hands of the Christian princes
here. The king honourablie received him, and
after he had taken counsell touching his request,
he gave him great sumraes of money and other rich
gifts, with a stipend, as some write, of a thousand
pounds yearly, to be paid to him during his life."

Froissart, the famous poet and historian, in his
" Chronicles," makes several allusions to the royal
palace of Eltham; in 1395 he came to England
for the purpose of presenting to Richard II. a

238

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[EUham.

volume of his writings. The details of this visit
are thus given by Froissart himself : — " The king
arrived at Eltham on a Tuesday ; on the Wednes-
day the lords came from all parts. There were the
Duke of Gloucester, the Earls of Derby, Arundel,
Northumberland, Kent, Rutland, tlie Earl Marshal,
the Archbishops of Canterlaury and York, the
Bishops of London and Winchester, in short, all
who had been summoned arrived at Eltham on the
I'hursday by eight o'clock in the morning.

" The Parliament was holden in the king's apart-
ment, in the presence of the king, his uncles, and
the council. The matter in deliberation was the
solicitation of the chieftains in .Aquitaine that they
might remain attached to the crown of England.
Thomas of Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester, the
king's brother, opposed their petition, with a view
to keep his brother, the Duke of Lancaster, abroad ;
and to show that he was the man wlio governed
the king, and was the greatest in the council, as
soon as he had delivered his opinion, and saw that
many were murmuring at it, and that the prelates
and lords were discussing it in small parties, he
quitted the king's chamber, followed by the Earl of
Derby, and entered the Hall at Eltham, where he
ordered a table to be spread, and they both sat
down to dinner, while others were debating the
business.

"On the Sunday the whole council were gone to
London, excepting the king and Sir Richard Sturry ;
these two, in conjunction with Sir Thomas Percy,
mentioned me [Froissart] again to the king, who
desired to see the book I hjd brought for him. I
presented it to him in his chamber, for I had it
with me, and laid it on his bed. He opened it
and looked into it with much pleasure. He ought
to have been pleased, for it was handsomely written
and illuminated, and bound in crimson velvet, with
ten silver-gilt studs, and roses of the same in the
middle, with two large clasps of silver-gilt, richly
worked with roses in the centre. The king asked
me what the book treated of; I replied, 'Of
Love ! ' He was pleased with the answer, and
di])ped into several places, reading aloud, for he
read and spoke French perfectly well, and then
gave it to one of his knights, Sir Richard Credon,
to carry it to his oratory, and made me acknow-
ledgments for it."

Parliament met lure to arrange King Richard's
second marriage with Isabella of Valois ; she was
brought hither after her bridal, and from the gates
of Eltham J'alace she departed in state to her
coronation. Henry IV. was frequently at Eltham
with his Court. Here he was espoused to Joan of
Navarre, in the presence of the [irimate and tlie

chief officers of state, Antonio Riezi acting as the
lady's proxy, and actually having the ring placed
upon his finger. In 1409, according to Stow,
Henry kept his Christmas here with his queen, and
Lambarde tells us that in 1412 he kept his last
Christmas at Eltham. His son and successor,
Henry V., also resided here, and in 1414, "the
king keeping his Christmasse at the manor of
Eltham, was advertised that Sir Roger Acton, a
man of great wit and possessions, John Browne,
Esquire, John Beverlie, priest, and a great number
of others, were assembled in armour against the
king." This report, it seems, had some effect on
the king, for, as Lambarde states, "he was faine
to depart suddenly, for feare of some that had
conspired to murder him." The meeting, which
took place in St. Giles's Fields, under the insti-
gation of Sir John Oldcastle, notwithstanding the
I treasonable character that was given it by most
writers of the period, appears to have been nothing
more than a convention of the inoffensive people
' styled Lollards, to hear the preaching of one of
their pastors.

Henry VI. once kept his Christmas festivities
at Eltham ; and here, unconscious of his critical
position, this unhappy prince forsook his studies
to hunt and join in the sports of the field under
the watchful eye of his keeper, the Earl of March,
while his wife and son, for whom he had restored
the palace, were sheltering in Harlech Castle.

Edward IV. resided much at Eltham Palace, and
on the 9th of November, 1480, his third daughter,
Bridget, was born here. She was christened in the
chapel in the palace, by the Bishop of Chichester,
and subsequently assumed the garb of a nun at
Dartford. P'ollovving in the footsteps of his pre-
decessors, Edward IV. kept his Christmas here in
great state in the year 1482-3, on which occasion,
it is stated, more than two thou.sand persons were
there daily entertained. This king is recorded to
j have laid out large sums on the buildings here, and,
as will be presently shown, is supposed to have
entirely rebuilt the great hall as it now stands.

Lambarde, in his " Perambulation of Kent,"

published in 1576, states that "it is not yet fully

out of memorie that King Henry VII. set up the

faire front over the mote there ; since whose

reigne, this house, l)y rea.son of the neerenesse to

Greenewiche (which also was much amended by

him, and is, through the benefite of the river, a

seate of more commoditie), hath not beene so

I greatly esteemed : the rather also that for the

I ])leasures of the emparked groundes here, may be

, in manner as well enjoyed, the Court lying at

Greenwiche, as if it were at this house it selfe."

Eltham.]

THE ROYAL PALACE.

239

Henry VH., like his predecessors, generally re-
sided here, and was wont to dine every day in the
hall surrounded by his barons. The " faire front,"
mentioned by Lambarde, was, no doubt, the north
face of the moated square, approached by the
Gothic bridge of three arches.

Although Henry VHL preferred the palace at
Greenwich, he appears sometimes to have resided
at Eltham, and in 15 15 he kept his Christmas here.
Holinshed thus records the entertainment on this
occasion: — "In the year 1515 the king kept a
solemn Christmas at his manor of Eltham, and on
the Twelfe Night, in the hall, was made a goodlie
castle, wonderouslie set out, and in it certaine
ladies and knights, and when the kinge and queene
were set, in came other knights, and assailed the
castle, where many a good stripe was given, and
at last the assailants were beaten away, and then
issued knights and ladies out of the castle, which
ladies were strangelie disguised, for all their ap-
parel was in braids of gold, fret with moving
spangles of silver-gilt set on crimson satin, loose
and not fiistened ; the men's apparell of the same
suite made like julis [sic] of Hungary, and the
ladies' heads and bodies were after the fashion of
Amsterdam ; and when the dancing was done the
banket [banquet] was served in of two hundred
dishes."

Towards the close of the year 1526 the plague
raged so fiercely in London that the king and his
Court removed to Eliham. Henry VHL again
kept his Christmas here in that year, and in 1556
Queen Mary paid a visit to the palace, attended
by Cardinal Pole and the Lord Montagu. Li the
first year of Queen Elizabeth's reign Eltham Palace
was for a few days the royal abode ; but an idea
having arisen that the stagnant waters of the moat
rendered the palace unhealthy, it was thenceforth
but little frequented by royalty. Sir Christopher
Hatton was keeper of Eltham Palace in the reign
of Queen Elizabeth. In 1606 James I. was visited
at Greenwich by his brother-in-law, the King of
Denmark, and the two kings went together to
Eltham, where they hunted with "greate pleasure,
and killed three buckes on horsebackc."

During the Civil Wars, Eltham Palace was occu-
pied by the Parliamentary General, Robert, Earl of
Esse.x, who died there in September, 1646.

After the death of Charles I. the royal residence
was seized by the Parliament, and in a survey
made by the commissioners in the above year it is
stated that the palace was built of brick, wood,
stone, and timber, and consisted of one fair chapel,
one great hall, thirty-six rooms and offices below
stairs, two large cellars, seventeen lodging-rooms

on the king's side, twelve on the queen's, nine
on the princes', seventy-eight rooms in the oiifices
round the court-yard, which contained one acre of
ground.

There were three parks attached to this mansion,
covering a very extensive tract of ground. The
Great Park contained 596 acres; the Little, or
Middle Park, 333 acres; and Home, or Lee Park,
336 acres ; the whole of which were well stocked
with deer. The deer, as may easily be imagined,
were well hunted and destroyed by the soldiery
and others during the time of the Commonwealth ;
besides which most of the trees M'ere cut down.

In 1648, the parks having already been partly
broken up and the deer destroyed, Nathaniel Rich
purchased the house and a great part of the lands
attached to it. Evelyn describes its condition a
few years later; under date of April 22, 1656, he
writes in his " Diary," " Went to see his Majesty's
house at Eltham ; both the palace and chapel in
miserable ruins, the noble wood and park destroyed
by Rich the rebel."

After the Restoration, the manor of Eltham was
bestowed by Charles II. on Sir John Shaw, in re-
cognition of his friendship to him when in exile at
Brussels and Antwerp ; and, with the exception of
certain portions of land originally in the royal park
which are still vested in the Crown, it continues in
the possession of his descendants.

Like most of the moated manor-houses of the
Middle Ages, the palace of Eltham was nearly
square in plan, and embraced four courts or quad-
rangles enclosed by a high wall. The moat which
surrounded it was of great width ; the principal
entry was over a stone bridge and through a gate-
way in the north wall. There was also another
gateway and bridge on the opposite side of the
enclosure. The most important part of the build-
ings consisted of a high range which crossed the
court from east to west, and included the hall, the
chapel, and the state apartments. The principal
courts were spacious and befitting the abode of
royalty, and lodging-rooms aixl offices, as notified
in the above survey, were very numerous ; of these,
however, not a vestige now remains, save the foun-
dations, some of which are traceable round the
sides of the area enclosed by the moat. Of the
chapel, not even the site can now be ascertained.
In fact, the only parts now remaining are the
banqueting-hall ; nn ivy-covered bridge of three
ribbed arches which spans the moat on the north
side, and still forms the entrance to the building ;
part of the embattled wall, flanked with loopholed
turrets ; some curious drains, supposed formerly
to have been used as sallyports on occasions of

240

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

lEkham.

emergency ; and a building at the east end of the
hall, with fine corbelled attics and ancient gables,
formerly the buttery, but no'.v a private residence,
called the Court House. This latter building was
thoroughly restored, and a new wing added to it
in 1859, at which time the great hall, which had
been for many years used as a barn, was cleared
out, and the eastern end of it considerably altered,
being made to serve as the entrance to the house.

periods, laid the palace low. Desolation has
reached its very walls, and the hand of wanton
mischief has dared to injure where it could not
destroy ; but still the hall of Eltham Palace has
not, with the exception of the louvre, been entirely
deprived of its smallest constituent feature.

" Its north and south sides were both open to
quadrangles. Their architecture corresponded pre-
cisely, excepting that the south parapet was plain,

I

I.I.IHAM PALACr, IN I79O.

By far the most interesting of these remains is
the magnificent banijueting-hall, with its beautiful
high-])itched roof, entirely constructed of oak, in
tolerable preservation, with hammer-beams, carved
l)endants, and braces supported on corbels of hewn
stone. Its dimensions are loo feet in length, 55 in
height, and 36 in breadth.

" The hall," writes Mr. Buckler, in his " His-
torical and Descriptive Account of the Royal
Palace at F^ltham " (1828), " was the master feature
of the jjalace. With a suite of rooms at cither
extremity, it rose in the centre of the surrounding
buildings, as superior in the grandeur of its archi-
tecture, as in the magnificence of its proportions
and the ampliluile of its dimensions. Tliis fair
edifice has survived the shocks which, at different

while tliat on the other side, facing the principal
gate of entrance, was embattled, and the cornice
enriched with sculptured corbels.

"In this majestic structure the architect scrupu-
lously avoided the frequent use of carvings, which,
it is evident, would have destroved the elegant
sini])licity of his design ; anil, besitles its intrinsic
excellence, this specimen of the palace will abun-
dantly prove how well the ancients could apply the
style to domestic purposes, how far removed from
gloom were their habitations where defensive pie-
cautions could be dispensed witli, and how skilfully
they prosecuted whatever they undertook in archi-
tecture.

"The proportions of l-'ltliam ll.ill. and the har-
mony of its design, attest the care and skill which

filtHam.;)

THE GREAT HALL, ELTHAM PALACE.

341

were exerted in its production. Other halls may
surpass it in extent, but this is perfect in every
useful and elegant feature belonging to a banquet-
ing-room. It was splendidly lighted, and perhaps
required painted glass to subdue the glare admitted
by two-and-twenty windows. There are no windows

which in some instances the thick trails of ivy im-
part a highly picturesque effect, which is heightened
by the broad streams of cheerful sunlight that fall
through the empty panels ; and every space is
divided by a buttress, which terminates below the
cornice, and at the foot of the windows has twice

HALL OF tLlHAM TALACE IN 1S35.

over the high pace or the screen, and there were
none in the majority of examples, though, from
unavoidable circumstances, Westminster and Guild-
hall receive their light in these directions."

The windows of the hall are ranged in couples,
in five spaces on both sides, occupying the length
of the building, from the east wall to the angle of
the bays ; every window is cinquefoil-headed and
divided by a mullion without a transom, around
261

the projection of the upper half. Altogether, how-
ever, these supports are slender, and partake of
the same light and elegant proportions which
characterise the whole building. The walls alone
are adequate to the weight which presses on them,
but their strength is increased by the buttresses
—features which are almost inseparable from the
ancient style of architecture, and were frequently
used for ornament even when their strength was

242

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

rEltham.

superfluous. The buttresses at Eltham are, how-
ever, both useful and ornamental ; and, as if to
determine for which purpose they were most re-
quired, several of those facing the south are mangled
or destroyed.

At the eastern end of the hall were three door-
ways communicating with the buttery above men-
tioned, and also other arched doorways leading
into the court-yards. These entrances were con-
cealed by a wooden screen ornamented with
carved work, over which was the minstrels' gallery,
the framework of which remains to this day. At
the western or upper end, where the dais was
placed, is on either side a bay, or recess, the ceihngs
of which are composed of very elegant groining
and minute tracery, and which were illuminated
by two windows of the lightest order of Gothic.
In these recesses it was customary, on state occa-
sions, to display the rich and costly vessels then in
use. The recesses are now in a sadly mutilated
condition, but the main body of the hall was
rescued from speedy decay by order of Govern-
ment in 182S, when ^700 were expended on it.
When it was first used as a barn, now more than a
century ago, most of the windows were bricked up,
and three pairs on the north side remain in that
condition at the present time. The holes for the
timber supports of the elevated platform, or dais,
are still visible in the western wall : and above
the same spot, at a considerable elevation, was a
window whence the king might look from his own
private apartments on the revellers in the hall, an
arrangement commonly in use in old houses of this
description.

The date of the erection of the banqueting-hall
unquestionably corresponds with the time of King
Edward IV. Not only is this opinion borne out
by the depressed Gothic arch of the roof and the
double ranges of windows, which much resemble
those in the hall at Crosby Place, Bishopsgate,
and in a building at Nettlestcd, now used as a
malt-house, both known to have been erected
(emp. Edward IV., but there is also in the north-
east doorway the device or badge of Edward IV.,
in very good jirescrvation, naniel\-, tlie rose en soldi,
or blazing sun in conjunction with the rose. This
doorway, headed by a label moulding (character-
istic of the architecture of the latter end of the
fifteenth century), was formerly for majiy years pro-
tected from the weather by a shed, to which is to be
attributed its excellent preservation. The badge
appears on one of the spandrils, between the label
and the arch. Besides this, the falcon and fetter-
lock, another device of Edward IV., may be ob-
berved among the carvings of the oriel windows.

The great hall has for ages gone by the name of
" King John's Barn," probably from some confusion
between King John and a son of Edward II., who
was born here, and who, as already stated, was
called "John of Eltham."

Subterranean passages have been traced for some
distance in a south-easterly direction, but these are
now converted into drains. It appears to have
been about the year 1836 that the discovery of
these passages was made ; and from a pamphlet
published a few years ago we learn that a trap-door
under the ground-floor of one of the apartments
led into a room below, ten feet by five in dimen-
sions, from which a narrow passage about ten feet
in length led to a series of passages, with decoys,
stairs, and shafts, some of which were vertical and
others on an inclined plane : these were once used
for admitting air, and for hurling down missiles and
pitch-balls upon the heads of those below. These
passages were explored to a distance of nearly 500
feet, 200 of which lay under the moat. In a
field between Eltham and Mottingham the arch had
been broken into, but still the passage could be
traced farther, proceeding in the same direction.
In that part immediately under the moat two iron
gates were found, completely carbonised, whilst
large stalactites, formed of super-carbonate of lime,
which hung down from the roof of the arch, suf-
ficiently indicated the lapse of time since these
passages had been previously entered. The pas-
sages now serve as drains in connection with the
dwelling-house which now stands upon the site of
the ancient buttery at the eastern end of the great
hall.

The moat, which still surrounds the entire build-
ing, has been partially drained and turfed, and that
part lying on the north side, whicli is spanned
by the ancient bridge, is exceeding!)' picturesque,
the effect being heightened by the herons and
other species of water-fowl that adorn its banks.
The old tilt-yard or tilting-court in the palace
" pleasaunce " was for many years converted — alas I
for this prosaic age — into a market garden ; its
high wall and arcliway of ruddy brick, wliich alone
remain to mark its site, are well worthy of notice.

^\'e have already spoken of tlie three i)arks which
formerly belonged to Eltham Palace, and of the
havoc made in them by the Parliament during the
Civil Wars. The Middle Park, however, has re-
mained to this day, and has gained some notoriety
—at least, in the racing world — as the home of the
famous stud of racehorses belonging to the late Mr.
William Blenkiron. After the death of this gentle-
man, the "stud," which included the celebrated
horses Gladiateur and Blair Athol, was sold by

Eltham.]

ELTHAM CHURCH.

243

auction in 1872, realising a sum of ^107,100.
The Middle Park establishment is kept in re-
membrance by the " Middle Park Plate," founded
in 1866, and which is one of the chief races at
the Newmarket Second October Meeting. The
memory of the Horn Park is still preserved in
Horn Park Farm, at some little distance to the
west of the palace.

On the east side of Eltham Palace a broad
thoroughfare, called the Court Road, in which are
numerous neat-built villas, leads to the Eltham
Station of the South-Eastem Railway (North Kent
line), which is situated at Mottingham, about a
mile from the village. The latter lies at a short
distance northward of the palace, and has a quiet,
old-fashioned air. The church, dedicated to St.
John the Baptist, is a large Gothic edifice of stone,
comprising nave, aisles, transepts, and chancel.
It was erected in 1876-7, to supersede an old
parish church which stood on the same spot. The
latter building was a singular brick-built structure,
which had been patched up at different times and
in so many ways that in the end it had a somewhat
unsightly appearance. On a tablet over the door-
way on the north side was the date 1667. The
wooden tower and shingle spire of the old church
were superseded by new and more substantial ones
several years ago. In the churchyard is the monu-
ment, surmounted by an urn, of George Home,
Bishop of Norwich, author of the " Commentary
on the Book of Psalms." He was a native of Kent,
and died in 1792. He was buried in the vault of
the Burtons, into whose family he had married.
Thomas Dogget, the comedian, and founder of
the "coat and silver badge " which bears his name,
and which is rowed for on the Thames by London
watermen's apprentices annually on the ist of
August, was buried here September 25th, 1721.
We have already in a previous volume* spoken at
some length of Tom Dogget as an actor, and also
of the aquatic contest which he instituted. We
may add here that the only portrait of him that is
known to exist is a small print representing him in
the act of dancing " The Cheshire Round," with
the motto " Ne sutor ultra crepidam." Here, like-
wise, lies buried, among many others, Sir William
James, the captor of Severndroog, on the coast of
Malabar, in 1755, of whom we have spoken in the
preceding chapter.t

In the hollow, on the north side of the church,
by the side of the road leading to Woolwich, and
near the footpath across the fields of Kidbrook,
stands a long red-brick farmhouse, of Elizabethan

See Vol. III., p. 308.

t See rt«/fc\ p. 236,

architecture ; it is known as Well Hall, and is
said at one time to have been the residence of
Sir Thomas More's favourite daughter, Margaret
Roper. " Among other notables who have dwelt
in Eltham," writes Mr. James Thorne, in his
" Environs of London," " was Vandyck, the
painter, who lived here in the summer, tempted,
it may be, by the residence in the Park Lodge
of his friend, Sir Theodore de Mayerne, the king's
physician, who was chief ranger of the park before
it was seized by the Parliament." According to
a statement of Walpole, in his " Anecdotes of
Painting in England," " in an old house at Eltham,
said to have been Vandyck's, Vertue saw several
sketches of stories from Ovid in two colours,
ascribed to that great painter ; but if they were
his, all trace of them has long been lost, and of
the house also. The quarrelsome Commonwealth
major, John Lilburne — ' Freeborn John,' as he
was styled^Cromwell's opponent in the army and
in the House of Commons, here spent his last
years ' in perfect tranquillity.' Having joined the
Quakers, 'he preached among that sect in and
about Eltham till his death ' there, August 29th,
1657." Here Dr. James Sherard formed his famous
botanic gardens, of which he published an account
under the title of " Hortus Elthamensis." In the
preparation of this work he was assisted by Dil-
lenius, who came to England in 1 7 2 1 specially to
superintend Dr. Sherard's garden, an event which,
Dr. Lindley says, " forms an important point in the
history of botany in this country." Lysons speaks
of Dr. James Sherard as the founder of the botanical
professorship at Oxford ; and in this he is followed
by most subsequent %vriters on Eltham. " The
founder of the professorship," writes Mr. Thorne,
'• was William Sherard, the Oriental traveller, the
brother of James, who, however, was a zealous pro-
moter of the science and patron of botanists."

Passing on our way along the high road towards
London, a short walk brings us to the rapidly-
increasing village of Lee, the principal part of
which is built on the rising ground sloping up
towards Blackheath. Since the formation of the
branch line of the North Kent Railway through
the parish, a considerable increase has been made
in the number of dwellings, which are now spring-
ing up in every direction, in consequence of the
easy facility of reaching town afforded by the
railway. A small rivulet takes its rise in this
parish, and, after watering the village, flows into
the river Ravensbourne, in the adjoining parish of
Lewisham. The church, dedicated to St. Margaret,
dates its erection from the year 1841, and stands
on an eminence near Blackheath, on the opposite

244

OLD AND NEW LONDON

[Lee.

side of the road to the old church, which has been
demoHshed, with the exception of a small portion
of the tower. The new church is a florid Gothic
structure, consisting of nave, chancel, side aisles,
with tower and spire ; it is built of brick, and
cemented, and ornamented with stone facings.
The graveyard is crowded with monuments and
tombs, among which is a plain tomb for Dr. Halley,
the celebrated astronomer, who lies buried under it.
Nathaniel Bliss, who succeeded Dr. Bradley in the
post of Astronomer- Royal, also lies buried here.

At Lee lived Mr. Bohun (or Boone), the friend
of John Evelyn and tutor to his sons ; and here he
was often visited by the genial old gossip. His
house was a cabinet of curiosities, mostly Indian,
Japanese, and Chinese, and adorned with carving
by Grinling Gibbons. Mr. Bohun must have been
more fortunate than most tutors, if he was able,
as recorded by Evelyn, to build here and endow
a hospital for eight poor persons, with a chapel
attached. The almshouses, which are situated at
the west end of the village, by the side of the
high road, were rebuilt in 1874. At the back of
these are thirty comfortable-looking houses, erected
by the Merchant Taylors' Company, in which a
number of widows of freemen belonging to that
company are supported. At the south end of the
parish, down to a comparatively recent date, were
the remains of an ancient moated mansion, said
to have been contemporary with the palace at
Eltham ; a fine avenue of lime-trees, some of wliich
still remain, formed the approach to the entrance,
and over the moat a strong brick arch is thrown.
Dacre House is described in Hasted's " Kent " as
"an elegant modern-built seat, late belonging to
Sir Thomas Fludyer ; " it was long the seat of the
Dacre family, whose name is perpetuated by one
of the streets in the village being named after
them. John Timbs, in his "Autobiography," in
describing a visit he once paid in his younger days
to the then rural village of Lee, says : — " Here 1
often saw the devout Lady Dacre crossing Lee
Green in her daily pilgrimage to her dear lord's
tomb in Lee churchyard. She usually rode there
from Lee Place on a favourite pony, and wore a
large drab beaver hat, and a woollen habit nearly
trailing on the ground. At the foot of her lord's
grave she was accustomed to kneel and pour forth
a fervent prayer, beseeching the Creator again to
join Jier in blissful union with her beloved husband
in the realms above. At home she cherished her
affection by placing his chair at the dinner-table as
during his lifetime. After fourteen years' widow-
hood, Lady Dacre died, in 1808, and was buried
with her husband."

" During our stay at Lee," adds Mr. Timbs,
" the Green was my favourite resort : here the
village stocks e.xcited my curiosity, and I soon
understood the wooden machine to be used for the
punishment of disorderly persons by securing their
legs." Mr. Timbs tells how that he remembered
the stocks in many an English village, and also
in many parts of London, those in Duke Street,
Lincoln's Inn, being the last to disappear. He
then reminds us how that " the rustic beauty of
Lee has been sacrificed to the railway, and its rural
sounds and songs to the noisy steam-horse ; though
the village possesses attractions for riper years, in
its beautiful pointed church, rebuilt upon much
older foundations ; it is famed, too, for its brasses,
and tombs of marble and alabaster ; and for the
resting-place of Halley, the Astronomer-Royal, who
wrote a treatise on comets when he was nineteen
years old."

From its proximity to Blackheath, and its easy
distance from London, Lee has of late years
become a favourite place of residence for City
merchants and men of business, and every avail-
able plot of ground has been covered with terraces
of detached and semi-detached villas and genteel
cottages for their accommodation ; and such names
as Belmont Park, Manor Park, Dacre Park, Grove
Park, &c., in which the more respectable class of
houses are built, impart a somewhat pretentious
air to the locality. New churches, too, have also
sprung up, consequent upon the increased growth
of the place. One of these is Christ Church, in
Lee Park, a building in the Early English style of
architecture, erected in 1855 ; another, and still
more handsome edifice of similar architecture, is
the Church of the Holy Trinity ; this was built in
1864.

At Burnt Ash, near Lee, in 1837, a Mr. Cocking
made an unsuccessful attempt to descend from a
balloon in a parachute, and was dashed to pieces.
His body was carried into the Tiger's Head Inn,
at Lee.

Continuing our course westward along the main
road, we soon arrive at Lewisham, a parish and
pleasant village situated on the Ravensbourne, a
stream which, as we liave already seen. Hows
through Deptford into the Tliames. \Vith regard
to this stream, the " Kentish Traveller's Com-
panion" (1789) says: "The river Ravensbourne
directs its course through this parish ; at the hamlet
of Southend it moves the engine by wliich the late
Mr. How made those knife-blades now so famous
throughout England." The name of this place is
supposed to be derived from the Saxon lawe, a
meadow, and kaiii, a dwelling.

Lewisham.]

THE POET DERMODY.

245

Lying along the valley of the Ravensbourne,
with the land rising gently on either side, Lewisham,
down to a very recent date, was a pleasant rural
district ; but, like all the other outlying districts of
London, the green fields which hemmed it in are
fast giving place to bricks and mortar. Granville
Park occupies the sloping ground on the north,
between Lewisham and Blackheath.

The old parish church, dedicated to St. Mary,
was taken down in 1774, when the present edifice
was erected on its site. The church is a plain
oblong structure of stone, with a shallow, semi-
circular recess instead of a chancel at the east end,
a square tower at the west end (the lower part
of which is ancient), and a portico on the south
side supported by four Corinthian columns. This
church, which was heated by means of a large
stove and flues, having been opened for divine
service on Christmas Day, 1830, it is supposed
that the flues becoming overheated, set fire to
some portion of the woodwork of the interior, as
at a very early hour on the following morning the
building was discovered to be in flames, and not-
withstanding every exertion, the conflagration con-
tinued till the interior of the church was almost
entirely destroyed, leaving only the walls and roof
standing. Tiie inhabitants of the parish shortly
after raised a handsome subscription to repair the
injury thus occasioned. The church contains a few
interesting monuments, particularly one by Banks
and another by Flaxman ; the former, which has
a poetical epitaph by Hayley, is in memory of
a daughter of Mr. William Lushington ; it repre-
sents an angel directing the mourning mother to
the text inscribed above the tablet, " Blessed are
they that mourn," &c. In the churchyard is a
monument, inscribed with some verses from his own
" Fate of Genius," to the unfortunate young poet,
Thomas Dermody, who was buried in 1802, at
the age of twenty-eight. Dermody, whose early
death reminds us, in a certain sense, of the fate
of Chatterton and Keats, was a native of Ennis,
in Ireland, and was born in 1775. He displayed
poetical powers at an early age. In 1792 he pub-
lished a volume of poems written in his thirteenth
year. In the following year appeared "The Rights
of Justice," a political pamphlet. In 1801 and
1802 he published "Peace," "The Battle of the
Bards," and other poems. Soon afterwards he
became a soldier, but disgraced himself by in-
temperance, and died in poverty in tlie adjoining
parish of Sydenham. In 1806 Mr. G. Raymond
published his life, &c., in two volumes, and sub-
sequently his poetical works, under the title of
" The Harp of Erin." |

The parish of Lewisham contains several other
churches, but only two of these come under our
notice here, namely, St. Stephen's and St. Mafk's.
The former was built and endowed in 1865 by
the Rev. S. Russell Davis ; it was erected from the
designs of Sir Gilbert Scott, and is in the Early
English style of architecture. The church of St.
Mark the Evangelist, in College Park, a rapidly
rising district on the east side of the Bromley Road,
is a handsome Decorated edifice, built in 1870,
from the designs of Mr. W. C. Banks.

Down to a very recent date Lewisham consisted
chiefly of one principal street, and the road for the
most part was bordered with lofty elms, many of
which still remain in all their freshness. The
salubrity of the air made the locality, at one time,
a favourite place of abode for London merchants
and wealthy families, and it still retains a few good
old houses. We learn from Hasted and other
historians that the manor of Lewisham, with its
appendages of Greenwich and Coombe, was given
by Elthruda, King Alfred's niece, to the Abbey
of St. Peter, at Ghent, to which Lewisham then
became a cell, or " alien " priory ; this grant is said
to have been confirmed by King Edgar, and by
Edward the Confessor. Kilburne tells us that
Lewisham Priory was founded during the reign of
Henry III., by Sir John Merbury ; but it is more
probable that he added to its endowments, and thus
became its second founder. Priory Farm, at the
south end of Rushey Green, on the Bromley Road
— now, in effect, a southern extension of Lewisham
village — marks the site of the Benedictine priory.

On the suppression of alien priories by Henry V.,
this priory was transferred, together with the manor
of Lewisham, to the monastery of Sheen, or Rich-
mond. In 1538 it reverted to the Crown, with the
other conventual property throughout the country ;
and ten years later it was granted for life to Thomas,
Lord Seymour. John, Earl of Warwick, eldest son
of the Duke of Northumberland, next possessed
the manor, but on his attainder, in the year 1553,
it again reverted to the Crown. Queen Elizabeth,
however, re-granted it to the earl's brother, Sir
Ambrose Dudley, who had been restored in blood,
and created Baron L'Isle and Earl of Warwick.
James I. granted the manor to John Ramsay, Earl
of Holderness. In 1664 it was sold to Reginald
Grahame, who in turn conveyed it to Admiral
George Legge, who was shortly afterwards created
Lord Dartmouth. His son William was, in 17 11,
created Viscount Lewisham and Earl of Dartmouth,
and with his descendants the property has since
continued. Lord Dartmouth resided at his seat on
Blackheath, in this parish, for which place, as we

246

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lewisham.

have already seen,* he procured the grant of a
market.

Tvvo charity-schools in Lewisham, one of which
is a free grammar-school, were founded by the Rev.
Abraham Colfe, vicar of this parish, in the latter
part of the seventeenth centur)-, and are under the
patronage of the Leathersellers' Company. The
intentions of the founder were extended by a
scheme settled by the Court of Chancery in 1857.

veneration by the "faithful." Here there is a station
on the Mid-Kent Railway. Close by is Brockley
Hill, across which are pleasant walks to Dulwich,
Peckham, and other outlying places which we
shall presently visit. Between Ladywell Station
and Brockley Lane is the cemetery belonging to
the parishes of Deptford and Lewisham ; it covers
a large space of ground, and is tastefully laid out.
Retracing our steps through the village, and

%7i f^^\

LEE CHURCH IN 1795.

There are also almshouses for six poor women
that owe their foundation to the same benevolent
individual. Otlier almshouses have lately been
erected in the village, under the will of Mr. John
Thackeray, for six poor females.

Half a mile to the south-east of the village is
Hither Green, which, together with Catford and
Catford Bridge, on the Ravensbourne, and also
Rushey Green (mentioned above), are hamlets be-
longing to Lewisham.

A narrow lane turning out of the main road by
the side of the parish church, leads our steps to
Ladywell, a spot doubtless so called from a well
or spring whose waters were at one time held in

* See anttf p. 937.

leaving on our right the station on the North
Kent Railway, we make our way up Loam Pit
Hill, p.issing the church of St. John's, lately built,
and soon fmd ourselves at New Cross, an outlying
district belonging to the parish of Deptford. This
noted locality, which takes its name from the old
coaching-house and hostelry bearing the sign of
the "Golden Cross," has been famous for at least a
couple of centuries ; for John Evelyn tells us in his
"Diary," under date of loth November, 1675, how
he went to "New Crosse" from Saye's Court, in his
coach, to accompany his friend. Lord Berkeley, as
far as Dover, on his way to Paris as amb.issador.
It may amuse the reader to learn that liis lord-
ship's retinue consisted of three conches (exclusive
of Evelyn's), as many wagons, and "about forty

New Cross. 1

THE ROYAL NAVAL SCHOOL.

247

horses." Our diplomatists move about now-a-days
with less state and less incumbrance.

On Counter Hill, Upper Lewisham Road, the
rising ground in the rear of the tavern, stands
what was till lately the Royal Naval School, a sub-
stantial brick building, with white stone dressings,
the " first stone " of which was laid by Prince
Albert, in 1843, on the "Glorious First of June,"
the anniversary of Lord Howe's victory. To the

opening of the school, in 1)533, upwards of 3,500
boys partook of its advantages, many of whom had
distinguished themselves, and several had lost their
lives in the service of their country. During the
half-century of its existence here more than 350
pupils had become naval officers, many of them
distinguished men. During the same period a
hundred pupils had entered as officers in the Royal
Marines, one-third of that number having gained

THE ROYAL NAVAL SCHOOL, NEW CROSS, 1880.

traveller who steps from the New Cross station
to the main road, it presents an imposing appear-
ance, with its long line of red-brick frontage, its
numerous windows, its sweep of green turf before
the house, its iron outer gates, and its great gates
of oak, which, when open, disclose the quadrangle
and the arcades under which the boys wandered
after school-hours when not disposed for play in the
spacious grounds beyond. The school, which was
founded and provisionally opened at Camberwell in
1833, had an average of 200 pupils, mostly the sons
of naval and military officers in necessitous circum-
stances ; the object of the school was to qualify
them, at the least possible expense, for any pursuit,
giving a preference to the orphans of those who
may have fallen in their country's service. From the

the Artillery, and many having passed first in their
entrance examinations. Captain Sir George Nares,
the commander of one Arctic Expedition, won his
way into the Royal Navy by gaining in this school
the Admiralty Prize Naval Cadetship in 1845.
Sir F. W. Festing, who distinguished himself in
the Ashantee campaign, also passed from this
school into the Marine Artillery. In 1891 the
school was removed into the country, and the
building was bought by the Goldsmiths' Com
pany, who have converted it into a Technical
and Recreative Institute.

At New Cross are important stations and works
on the South-Eastern, and also on the London,
Brighton, and South Coast Railways.

The manor of Hatcham, in the immediate neigh-

248

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

'Old Kent Road.

bourhood of the above-mentioned station, was
at one time part and parcel of the parish of St.
Paul, Deptford ; but, pursuant to an Act of Parlia-
ment, it has been created a distinct parish, called
Hatcham New Town. The church, dedicated to
St. James, is a large and lofty Gothic edifice; it

was consecrated in 1850, but was only recently
completed. In 1877 this church acquired consider-
able notoriety from the rituaUstic practices of its
incumbent, who was suspended on that account
from his spiritual functions by order of the Arches
Court of Canterbury, under Lord Penzance.

CHAPTER XIX.

THE OLD KENT ROAD, &c.

'* Inde iter in Cantium.'* — Ccesar.

The Course of the Old Watling Street — M. Sorbierre's Visit to London in the Reign of Charles 11. — Evel>n's Account of the Return of Charles 11.,
on his Restoration— Anecdote of Pitt and Dundas— Mrs. Mapp, the celebrated Bone-setter— Condition of the Old Kent Road in the Last
Century — The Licensed Victuallers* Asylum — The South Metropolitan Gas Works — Christ Church — The Canal Bridge — Marlborough Chapel
— St, Thomas ;i Watering — Old Taverns and Roadside Inns — The "World Turned Upside Down" — The Deaf and Dumb Asylum^ The
New Kent Road — Lock's Fields — Great Dover Street — Trinity Square and Trinity Church — Horsemonger Lane Gaol — Leigh Hunt a Prisoner
there— Execiition of the Mannings — The Surrey Sessions* House — Newington Causeway.

Following the course of the old Watling Street,
we now make our way back to the southern e.x-
tremity of the Borough, by the broad thoroughfare
of the Old Kent Road. All trace of Watling Street
at this point, we need hardly remark, has long
since disappeared. The branch of the ancient
Watling Street, which e.xtended from Dover to
Canterbury, and thence through Faversham and
Rochester to London, was the road followed by
nearly all travellers from the days of the Romans,
the days of pilgrimages and crusades, and thence
again until the formation of railways diverted their
steps into another track. M. Sorbierre, a French
gentleman of letters, who visited London in the
reign of Charles II., thus writes : — "That I might
not take post, or be obliged to use the stage-coach,
I went from Dover to London in a wagon ; I was
drawn by six horses, one before another, and driven
by a wagoner, who walked by the side of it. He
was clothed in black, and appointed in all things
like another St. George : he had a brave ' mounteror'
on his head, and was a merry fellow, fancied he
made a fine figure, and seemed highly pleased with
himself"

Along this road travelled Charles II. and a gay
train of cavaliers, on his Restoration and return, by
way of Dover to London, in May, 1660. Evelyn
draws the following picture of the happy event : —
"This day his Majesty Charles II. came to
London after a sad and long exile, and calamitous
suffering both of the king and Church. This was
also his birthday, and with a triumph of about
20,000 horse and foote, brandishing their swords
and shouting with inexpressible joy ; the wayes
strew'd with flowers, the bells ringing, the streets
hung with tapestrie, fountaines running with wine :

the Maior, Aldermen, and all the Companies in
their liveries, chaines of gold, and banners ; lords
and nobles clad in cloth of silver, gold, and velvet ;
the windows and balconies well set with ladies ;
trumpets, music, and myriads of people flocking
even so far as from Rochester, so as they were
seven hours in passing into the Citty, even from
two in the afternoon till nine at night."

In the days nearer to our own, when there were
no railroads, even this unfashionable thoroughfare
was used by the most distinguished travellers.
Stothard, the painter, for instance, tells us that,
happening to be one evening at an inn on this
road, he met Pitt and Dundas (afterwards Lord
Melville), who had been obliged to rest there for
the night on their way from ^VaImer to London.
Next morning, as they were stepping into their
carriage, the waiter said to Stothard, " Sir, do you
observe those two gentlemen ?" " Yes," was the
reply ; "I see they are Mr. Pitt and Mr. Dundas."
" And how much wine do you think they drank
last night, for the good of the house?" Stothard
could not guess. " Seven bottles," was the waiter's
answer.

We find in JoaflVeson's " liook about Doctors,"
the following ludicrous story relative to this part
of the metropolis : — " One of the sights of tlie
Old Kent Road at the beginning of the eighteenth
century was the cavalcade of Mrs. Mapp, the
celebrated bone-setter, on her way to the City.
On one occasion, we are told, as the lady was
proceeding along the Old Kent Road towards the
r.oroiigli in her carriage-and-four, and manifesting
by her manner tliat she had jxirtaken too freely 01
Geneva water, she found herself in a very trying
position. Her fat frame, eccentric dress, and

Old Kent Road]

THE LICENSED VICTUALLERS' ASYLUM.

249

dazzling equipage, were, in the eyes of the mob,
sure signs of royalty, so that she was immediately
taken for a court lady of German origin and un-
popular repute, whose word was omnipotent at
St. James's. Soon a crowd gathered round the
carriage, and, with the proper amount of yelling
and hooting, were about to break the windows with
stones, when, acting very much as Nell Gwynne did
on a similar occasion, she exclaimed, in a manner
more emphatic than polite, ' What ! don't you
know me ? I'm Mrs. Mapp, the bone-setter ! ' "
Tlie tale is familiar to all readers of the " Eccentric
Biography."

The Old Kent Road, known as Kent Street
Road until the end of the last century, was a con-
tinuation of Kent (now Tabard) Street, of which
we have already spoken,* and was the highway
from Kent to the metropolis. There were but few
houses in the Kent Road a century ago. Rocque's
Map, published in 1750, shows the thoroughfare
lined with hedgerows, bespeaking its rural character
in the days of George II.

In 1827 the Licensed Victuallers' Asylum was
founded, on six acres of freehold land lying just off
the Old Kent Road. It consists of a group of one-
storeyed houses, chapel, chaplain's residence, board
and court rooms, library, &c., set round two green
lawns. The Duke of Sussex was its first patron in
1827, and he was succeeded by the Prince Consort,
on whose death the Prince of Wales assumed the
office. The idea of establishing an institution
wherein the distressed members of the licensed
victuallers' trade, and their wives or widows, might
be enabled to spend the latter part of their days in
peace and quietness, was conceived by the late Mr.
Joseph Proud Hodgson, in the year 1826, when he
called a meeting of several influential gentlemen in
the trade, and ventilated his views ; and, after
serious consideration, it was determined that a
society should be formed under the title of the
Licensed Victuallers' Asylum.

Subscriptions were solicited, and the hearty
response that was accorded to the scheme by
those most deeply interested in its success enabled
the committee to purchase the land above men-
tioned, upon which it was resolved to erect an
asylum, to consist of one hundred and one separate
houses, containing three rooms each, besides the
requisite conveniences. In May, 1828, the foun-
dation-stone was laid, with full Masonic honours,
by the Duke of Sussex, in the presence of a dis-
tinguished company, many of whom in after years
exhibited a sincere attachment to the institution.

* See anU^ p. 70.

At this time it was determined by the promoters
of the institution to erect the central portion of the
building, to consist of forty-three houses, which
were perfected, and speedily became the abode of
as many deserving individuals.

The applicants for admission being numerous,
it was deemed advisable to perfect the asylum as
early as circumstances would permit, and conse-
quently, in the year 1831, the south wing was
erected, and in 1833 the north wing, thus com-
pleting the original design of the institution. The
friends of the society, being relieved of the anxiety
of erecting additional houses, in the year 1S35
turned their attention to the advisability of granting
weekly allowances of money to the inmates of the
asylum, in order to provide them with the neces-
saries of life, and, as might be imagined, the pro-
posal met with cordial approval, and allowances
were then commenced, since which period they
have been increased from time to time, until they
have reached the sum of twelve slnllings per week
for married couples and eight shillings for single
persons — members of the Incorporated Society
of Licensed Victuallers receiving one shilling per
week extra. In addition to the allowances, a
weekly supply of coal is granted to each inmate,
besides being supplied with medical attendance,
medicine, and wine, when recommended by the
medical officer. In 1842 a charter of incorporation
was granted to the institution, and in the following
year, on the death of the Duke of Sussex, Prince
Albert became patron.

In 1849 was commenced the "ladies' wing," com-
prising twenty-three habitations, the foundation-
stone being laid by H.R.H. the Prince Consort :
this wing was completed in the following year.
Several years having elapsed since an addition was
made to the asylum, this important subject was
considered, and so readily approved of by those
who had the management of the institution, that
in the year 1858 a new wing was commenced, the
asylum being again honoured by its royal patron
condescending to lay the foundation-stone. These
buildings were designated the Albert Wing, in com-
pliment to his Royal Highness, and consist of
thirty-four houses.

A donation of one thousand guineas having been
made to the institution in 1866, by a Mr. William
Smalley, it was resolved that the only remaining
space on the asylum grounds available for building
purposes should be utilised. This was accordingly
carried out, and ten additional houses built, which
were named the Smalley Wing, the foundation-stone
being laid by the Duke of Edinburgh. This ad-
dition completed the asylum as a building, and it

250

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Old Kent Road.

now consists of one hundred and seventy separate
and distinct houses.

The beautiful little chapel is enriched with
stained-glass memorial windows, and also several
handsome marble tablets, in memory of donors to
the institution ; and upon the grounds in front of
the building, facing the Asylum Road, is erected
a marble statue of the late Prince Consort, which
was unveiled in 1864 by the Prince of Wales.

The expenses attending the institution are about
;!£'7,ooo annually, which is met by the subscriptions
among the members of the trade, by bequests, by
the proceeds of a ball given annually at the Free-
masons' Tavern or elsewhere, and also by the pro-
ceeds of the anniversary festival.

Close by the canal bridge, at a short distance
westward of the Asylum Road, are the works be-
longing to the South Metropolitan Gas Company,
whose operations extend over the greater part of
South London. Even in these days of mammoth
commercial undertakings, few companies have
undergone such rapid expansion as this. Its paid-
up capital now amounts to upwards of ^2,000,000,
and its premium capital to over a quarter of a
million ; it has altogether about 780 miles of main-
pipes ; it consumes annually about 680,000 tons of
coal, and supplies about 6,450,000,000 feet of gas
in a year. The number of retorts at the Old Kent '
Road Works is about 846, and the seven gas- 1
holders are capable of storing nearly 1 1,000,000 1
feet of gas ; while the greatest quantity made in '
a day somewhat exceeds 9,000,000. This gas
company was founded in 1833, for the supply of
cannel gas, and incorporated in 1842, with an
authorised capital of ;^2oo,ooo. In 1853 the
south side of the Thames was divided into districts,
which arrangements were sanctioned by Parliament
in the Metropolis Gas Act, 1 860. The company
first supplied gas in 1834; and after four years'
trial it was convincingly proved that to supply
cannel gas made from the common coal was a
financial mistake, and therefore cannel gas was
abandoned in 1838. In consequence of the
gradual extension of these works, the district
church of Christ Church, Cambcrwell, which was
built in 1838, on the north side of the Old Kent
Road, has been demolished, and a new church
built on the opposite side of the road. The new
edifice, a brick building of Gothic architecture, was
erected in 1868.

Beyond mentioning the canal bridge, which
spans the Grand Surrey Canal close by the above-
mentioned gas-works, and making a passing refer-
ence to Marlborough (Congregational) Chapel,
and also to the new Nonconformist chapel at the

corner of Albany Road — built for the congregation
formerly assembhng at the old Maze Pond Chapel,
— there is Httle or nothing in this thoroughfare
calling for special remark till we arrive near the
junction of the Old and New Kent Roads with
Great Dover Street.

St. Thomas a Watering was once the boundary
of the City liberties, and in the "olden time," when
the lord mayor and sheriffs " in great state "
crossed the water to open Southwark Fair and to
inspect the City boundaries, the City magistrates
continued either to St. George's Church, Newing-
ton Bridge, or " to the stones pointing out the City
liberties at St. Thomas k Watering." The precise
situation was as near as possible that part of the
Old Kent Road which is intersected by the Albany
Road, and the memory of the place is still kept
alive by St. Thomas's Road, close by, and by the
tavem-signs in the neighbourhood. " At the com-
mencement of the present century," writes Mr.
Blanch, in his history of "Ye Parishe of Cainer-
well," " there was a stream here which served as
a common sewer, across which a bridge was built ;
and in going from Camberwell into Newington or
Southwark, it was not unusual for people to say they
were going over the water. The current from the
Peckham hills was at times so strong as to overflow
at least two acres of ground."

St. Thomas a Waterings was situated close to
the second milestone on the Old Kent Road, and
was so called from a brook or spring, dedicated to
St. Thomas a Becket. Chaucer's pilgrims, as we
have seen in a previous chapter,* passed it on their
way to the shrine of St. Thomas k Becket at
Canterbury : —

"And forth we riden a litel more than pas,
Unto the watering of Seint Thomas,
And then our host began his hors arrest."

Ben Jonson, in The New Inn, makes mention of
the spot in the following lines : —
"These are the arts
Or seven liberal deadly sciences,
Of pagery, or rather paganism,
As the tides run ! to wliich if he apply him,
He may pcrliaps take a degree at 'i'yburn
A year the earlier ; come lo read a lecture
Uj)on Aquinas at St. Thomas i Waterings."
This spot was in the old Tudor days the place
of execution for the northern jiarts of Surrey ; and
here the Vicar of Wandsworth, his chaplain, and
two other persons of his household, were hung,
drawn, and quartered in 1539 for denying the
supremacy of Henry VIII. in matters of faith.
In 1553 (January 3rd) "was caried from the

• Sec anUt p. 83.

Old Kent Road.]

THE DEAF AND DUMB ASYLUM.

251

Marshalleshe unto Saynt Thomas of Wateryiig a
talman, and went thedur with the rope a-bovvt ys
neke, and so he hanggd a whylle, and the rope
burst, and a whylle after and then they went for
a-nodur rope, and so lyke-wyss he burst ytt and fell
to the ground, and so he skapyd with his lyffe."

On the 3rd of October, 1559, a " nuw payre of
galows was sett up at Sant Thomas of Watering ;''
and on the 12th of February, 1650-1, " was reynyd
[arraigned] in Westmynster Hall v men, iij was for
burglare, and ij were cutpurses, and cast to be
hanged at Sant Thomas of Watering : one was a
gen ty Oman."

One of the quarters of Sir Thomas Wyatt, who
was beheaded for rebellion in April, 1554, was
exposed at this place; and on the i8th of June,
1556, a younger son of Lord Sandys was executed
here for robbing a cart, coming from a fair. The
booty taken was estimated at about four thousand
pounds.

In 1559 five men were executed here. Macbyn,
in his Diary, thus records the event: — "The ix day
of Feybruary at after-none a-bowt iij of the cloke, v
men wher hangyd at Sant Thomas of watherynges ;
one was captyn Jenkes, and (blank) Warde, and
(blank) Walles, and (blank) Beymont, and a-nodur
man, and they were browth [brought] up in ware
[war] all their lyffes, — for a grett robere done."

John Henry, the author of some of the " Martin
Mar-Prelate Tracts," was hung here in 1593 ; and
Franklin, one of the agents implicated in the
murder of Sir Thomas Overbury, was executed at
the same place in 16 15.

The last persons executed at St. Thomas a
Watering were a father and son, who suffered the
penalty of the law for murder about the year
1740.

The most noticeable feature in the Old Kent
Road is the number of public-houses, each with
its swinging sign and drinking-trough for horses.
Among these houses of " entertainment for man
and beast " is the " Kentish Drovers," which has
existed here for about a couple of centuries, and
was a well-known halting-place on the road to
Kent, at a time (not very far distant) when the
thoroughfare was bordered on either side by
green fields and market gardens. The "Thomas
a Becket," at the corner of Albany Road, com-
memorates the spot where the pilgrims first halted
on their way from London to Canterbury (as men-
tioned above) ; the " Shard Arms " perpetuates
the cognisance of the once powerfiil and wealthy
Shard family, who were large landowners in the
neighbourhood. Among the oldest inns in the Old
Kent Road, perhaps, is one near the Bricklayers'

Arms Station, which rejoices in the somewhat
singular sign of "The World Turned Upside
Down." The house is supposed to have com-
memorated the discovery of Australia and Van
Diemen's I^and, and down to about 1840 its sign-
board represented a man walking at the South Pole.
Mr. Larwood, in his work on " Sign-boards,"
interprets this sign as "meaning a state of things
the opposite of what is natural and usual : a
conceit in which," he adds, " the artists of former
ages took great delight, and which they represented
by animals chasing men, hor.ses riding in carriages,
and similar conceits and pleasantries." The old
sign-board was blown down many years ago ; and
in 1868 the house itself was in great part rebuilt
and wholly new-fronted.

The Bricklayers' Arms Inn, at the corner of the
Old Kent Road and Bermondsey New Road, was a
famous house of call for all journeys from the south-
eastern parts of London for several centuries. There
can be no doubt that at an early date an inn stood
on the spot now occupied by the Bricklayers' Arms,
the descent from which to the present house, which
was built in 18S0, is unbroken. In the time of
Edward III. the Burgundian lords who came over
after the battle of Cressy to issue a general challenge
to English knights in a tournament to be held in
Smithfield, lodged, we are told by Philip de
Comines, " in a vaste hostel on the olde rode from
Kent into Southwarke, about two thirdes of a league
from the bridge acrosse the Thames "; a description
which evidently applies to a house occupying this
site. Among the illustrious personages who have
since been known to make this inn their halting-
place may be mentioned Sir Francis Drake, Sir
Cloudesley Shovel, Admiral Duncan (afterwards
Lord Camperdown), Lord Hood, and the gallant
Nelson.

Nearly opposite this old hostelry stood for many
years the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, a large but
plain and unpretending edifice, separated from
the roadway by a grove of trees. Miss Priscilla
Wakefield, in her " Perambulations," published in
i8og, commences one of her "letters " as follows :
— " We continued our excursions into the county
of Kent, stopping on the Kent Road to view a
handsome building now erecting for the Asylum
for poor Deaf and Dumb Children, an unfortunate
class of persons, too long overlooked, or ineffect-
ually commiserated among us." The applicants
becoming so numerous that not one-half of them
could be admitted, it was resolved to extend the
plan. A new subscription was set on foot, and
the present building was raised, without en-
croaching on the former funds of the institution.

iS^

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tOld Kent Road

A memorial bust of the Rev. Mr. Townsend has
been placed in the committee-room. The pupils,
male and female, are such children only as are
deaf and dumb, not being deiicient in intellect.
Other children are admitted on payment of ^30
annually for board ; and private pupils are also
received. The term of each pupil's stay is five
years; they are taught to read, write, draw, and
cipher, to read from the lips, and in many instances

year the number of afflicted children admitted to
this branch establishment was fifty. Forty-five
children left the Asylum during the year, and
twenty-two were apprenticed to various trades.
As many as 5,095 children had been admitted
since the foundation of the Asylum, and 2,020
apprenticed since the year 1S12. The ordinary
receipts in 1891, including a balance from the
previous year of ^256, amounted to upwards of

lllK LICENSED victuallers' ASYLUM, iSSo.

to articulate so as to be clearly understood. They
are wholly clothed and maintained by the charity,
are instructed in working trades, and in some cases
apprentice-fees are given. The Asylum is well
though not adetjuately supported ; and, besides its
annual receipts from subscriptions, donations, and
legacies, &c., it has some funded stock. The
pupils are elected half-yearly, without reference to
locality, sect, or persuasion. The importance of
this Asylum is attested by the fact that in 1833,
in twenty families of 159 children, ninety were deaf
and dumb.

In connection with the above-mentioned insti-
tution there is a branch establishment at Margate,
which was used for the first time in August, 1876.'
From the report fur 1891 we learn that during that

^^10,361, and the general expenses to ;^i 1,977,
showing a serious deficiency of over ;^ 1,600, to
meet which it became necessary to dispose of
some stock.

Close by the Deaf and Dumb Asylum the Old
Kent Road terminates in the branch thorough-
fares of New Kent Road, which trends south-
westwardly to the " Elephant and Castle," and
of Great Dover Street, which unites with the
Borough, close by St. George's Church. The
former of these thoroughfares — formerly called
the Greenwich Road — is a broad and open
roadway ; it has been lately planted on either
side with trees, so that in course of time it
will doubtless form a splendid boulevard, of
the Parisian type, and one worthy of being

Great Dover Street."]

TRINITY SQUARE.

2S3

copied in many other parts of London. Great
Dover Street is of comparatively recent growth,
having been formed since the commenGement of
the present century to supersede the old, narrow,
and disreputable Kent Street, which runs parallel
with it on the north side, and to which we have
referred above.

Among the residents of this street was Mr. T.
C. Noble, the author of " Memorials of Temple
Bar," and of other antiquarian works. It may be
recorded that in 1869, when a bill was introduced
into the House of Commons to divest some of the
great City companies of the estates in the north of
Ireland which they had purchased from James I.,
Mr. Noble published a series of letters, which had
an important effect in causing the abandonment of
the bill. For his successful opposition to the
scheme, Mr. Noble received two special votes of
thanks from the Court of the Irish Society, likewise
the thanks of the London Livery Companies, being
also presented with the freedom of the City and of
the Company of Ironmongers.

"At the east end of Kent Street, in 1847,"
writes Mr. Blanch, in his " History of Camberwell,"
" was uneartlied a pointed arched bridge of the
fifteenth century, probably erected by the monks
of Bermondsey Abbey, lords of the manor. In
Rocque's Map, this arch, called Lock's Bridge, from
being near the Lock Hospital,* carries the road
over a stream which runs from Newington Fields
to Bermondsey ! " Lock's Fields, which are still
in existence — at all events in name — on the south
side of the New Kent Road, were doubtless so
named for the same reason.

In Trinity Street — which diverges from Great
Dover Street, and terminates at the junction of
Blackman Street with Newington Causeway — is
Trinity Square, and also Trinity Church, a modern
edifice of the Grecian style of architecture. This
church is situated on the south side of Trinity
Square, at a short distance from Blackman Street,
and nearly on the verge of the parish of St. Mary,
Newington. It is enclosed in a small square of
respectable-looking houses, with a plantation in
the centre, in which is erected a statue of King
Alfred. The portico and principal front of the
church, with the steeple, is placed on the north
side of the body of the edifice ; the portico con-
sisting of six fluted Corinthian columns support-
ing a plain entablature and pediment. The body
of the church is a parallelogram, and is divided
into two storeys by a plain course. The interior
presents a vast unbroken area, roofed in one span,

* See Vol. v., pp. 14, ai5, and 528 ; and also ante, p. 70.

262

and the ceiling is panelled. The galleries, resting
on Doric pillars, extend round three sides of the
church, and the altar-screen, situated below the
eastern window, consists of a pediment surmounting
four slabs, inscribed with the Decalogue, &c. The
first stone of the edifice was laid by the Archbishop
of Canterbury in June, 1823, and the building was
consecrated in December of the following year.
The ground on which the church is built was
given by the corporation of the Trinity House,
which possesses considerable property in the
vicinity.

On the south side of Trinity Square, with its
principal entrance in Union Road (formerly Horse-
monger Lane), stood the prison and place of
execution for the county of Surrey, commonly
known as Horsemonger Lane Gaol. It was a sub-
tantially-built structure, chiefly of brick, arranged
upon the approved plan of John Howard, the
prison philanthropist. It was of a quadrangular
form, with three storeys above the basement, and
was completed for the reception of prisoners in
1798, and had accommodation for 300 prisoners.
On the passing of the Prisons' Regulation Act in
1878, this gaol was abolished, and shortly after-
wards the buildings, with the exception of the outer
wall and the entrance lodge-house, were pulled
down. A portion of the site has since been let
to the Metropolitan Playground Association, at a
nominal rent of 5s. a year, and in May, 18S4, it
was opened as a recreation-ground for the children
of the neighbourhood, who resort to it in large
numbers.

In 1802, Colonel Despard, and about thirty of
his accomplices, were arrested at the "Oakley Arms"
public-house in Lambeth, on a charge of treasonable
conspiracy, tending to dethrone the king and sub-
vert the Government. In the following February
they were tried by a special commission, held in
the Sessions' House adjoining the prison, and the
colonel and six of his colleagues were hung and
beheaded here. It may be added that the " hurdle"
on which the colonel was drawn from the cell in
which he was last confined to the place of execution
— in conformity with the sentence formerly passed
upon criminals convicted of high treason — remained
in the gaol till very recently, and was regarded as
an object of curiosity.

This spot has its romance, for Leigh Hunt was
for two years (1812-1814) imprisoned here for
libellously styling the Prince Regent, afterwards
George IV., an " Adonis of fifty ;" and here it was
that Moore and Lord Byron paid that memorable
visit to " the wit in the dungeon," when the noble
poet saw him for the first time in his life. Mr.

254

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Horsemouger Lane.

CjTus Redding, in his " Recollections," says : — " I
remember paying Leigh Hunt a visit in Horse-
monger Lane Jail, a miserable low site. I missed
Byron and Moore by only about half an hour, on
the same errand. Horace Smith and Shelley used
to be visitors there, and many others of Hunt's
friends. He was composing ' Rimini,' a copy
of which he gave me, and which I still possess.
His apartment, on the ground floor, was cheerful
for such a place, but that only means a sort of
Licquered gloom after all. I thought of his health,
which seemed by no means strong. I am certain,
if the place was not unwholesome, it lay close
upon the verge of insalubrity. Hunt bore his con-
finement cheerfully, but he must have had un-
pleasant moments. He was naturally lively, and
in those days I never knew a more entertaining
companion. For such an one to be alone for
weary, dreary hours, must have been punishment
enough even to satisfy an EUenborough or a
Jeffries."

" Times and rules are changed since then,"
writes Mr. Hepworth Di.xon, in his " London
Prisons :" "the ' lu.\urious comforts — the trellised
flower-garden without, the books, busts, pictures,
and pianoforte within ' — which Moore describes on
the occasion when Byron dined with him in the
prison — would be looked for in vain now." Here
is a picture of tlie interior of the prison at the time
Mr. Dixon's book was published less than half
a century ago (1850) : — " There are for criminals,"
he writes, " ten classes, or wards, each ward having
its yard and day-room. On entering one of these,
the visitor is painfully impressed with the absence
of all rule and system in the management. He
finds himself in a low, long room, dungeon-like,
chilly, not very clean, and altogether as uncomfort-
able as it can conveniently be made. This room
is crowded with thirty or forty persons, of all ages
and shades of ignorance and guilt — left to them-
selves, with no officer in sight. Here there is no
attempt to enforce discipline. Neither silence nor
separation is maintained in the largest prison in
tlie metropolitan county of Surrey ! In this room
we see thirty or forty persons with nothing to do
— many of them know not how to read, and those
who do are little cncourageil so to improve their
time. Some of them clearly prefer their present
state of listless idleness : with hands in their
pockets, they saunter about their dungeon, or loll
upon the floor, listening to the highly-spiced stories
of their con-.jjanions, well content to be fed at the
expense of tlie county — upon a better diet, better
cooked, than they are accustomed to at home —
without any trouble or exertion on their own part.

Conversing with them, we find that a few of these
pariahs of civilisation hate the listless, apathetic
bondage in which they are kept ; that they would
be glad to Iiave work to do — to get instruction if
they could. But the majority prefer the state of
vegetation as more congenial to their cherished
habits of inaction. Here they are gratified to their
wish." This state of things, we need scarcely
inform our readers, ceased to exist on the passing
of the Prisons' Discipline Act in 1865, when the
silent system Avas adopted liere, and the regulations
of the prison were carried out on much the same
principle as those at Holloway.* The abolition of
this gaol may be regarded as an unconscious
attempt to realise in modern London the boast of
Rome under its kings, that it was content with a
single prison !

Down to the passing of the Act by which execu-
tions ceased to take place in public, the scaffold
for the execution of criminals at this gaol was
erected upon the roof of the gateway ; and the
roadway in front, during these "exhibitions," be-
came the scene of the wildest depravity. Charles
Dickens, who was present at the execution of the
Mannings on the 13th of November, 1849, gives us
the following description of what he saw : — " I was
a witness," he writes, " of the execution at Horse-
monger Lane this morning. I went there with the
intention of observing the crowd gathered to behold
it, and I had excellent opportunities of doing so
at intervals all through the night, and continuously
from daybreak until after the spectacle was over.
I believe that a sight so inconceivably awful as the
wickedness and levity of the immense crowd col-
lected at that execution could be imagined by no
man, and could be presented in no heathen land
under the sun. The horrors of the gibbet and of the
crime which brought the wretched murderers to it
faded in my mind before the atrocious bearing, looks,
and language of the assembled spectators. When
I came upon the scene at midnight, the shrillness
of the cries and howls that .were raised from time
to time, denoting that they came from a concourse
of boys and girls already asscmbletl in the best
places, made my blood run cold. As the night
went on, screeching, and laughing, and yelling in
strong chorus of parodies on negro melodies, with
substitutions of ' Mrs. Manning' for ' Susannah,'
and the like, were added to these. When the day
dawned, thieves, low prostitutes, ruffians, and vaga-
bonds of every kind, flocked on to the ground,
with every variety of offensive and foul behaviour.
Fightings, faintings, whistlings, imitations of Puncli,

• Sec Vol. Ill , p. 380.

Newington.]

HORSEMONGER LANE GAOL.

255

brutal jokes, tumultuous demonstrations of indecent
delight when swooning women were dragged out
of the crowd by the police with their dresses dis-
ordered, gave a new zest to the general entertain-
ment. When the sun rose brightly — as it did — it
gilded thousands upon thousands of upturned faces,
so inexpressibly odious in their brutal niirtli or
callousness, that a man had cause to feel ashamed
of the shape he wore, and to shrink from himself,
as fashioned in the image of the devil. When
the two miserable creatures who attracted all this
ghastly sight about them were turned quivering
into the air, there was no more emotion, no more
pity, no more thought that two immortal souls had
gone to judgment, no more restraint in any of the
previous obscenities, than if the name of Christ
had never been heard in this world, and there
were no belief among men but that they perished
like the beasts. I have seen, habitually, some of
the worst sources of general contamination and
corruption in this country, and I think there are
not many phases of London life that could surprise
me. I am solemnly convinced that nothing that
ingenuity could devise to be done in this city, in
the same compass of time, could work such ruin
as one public e.xecution ; and I stand astounded

and appalled by the wickedness it exhibits. I do
not believe that any community can prosper where
such a scene of horror and demoralisation as was
enacted this morning outside Horsemonger Lane
Gaol is presented at the very doors of good citizens,
and is passed by, unknown or forgotten."

The Sessions' House, fur the meetings of the
magistrates of the county of Surrey, adjoins the
western side of the prison, and has its front towards
Newington Causeway. This building, together
with the gaol, was completed in 1799, having been
built in conformity with an Act of Parliament,
passed in the year 1791, entitled "An Act for
building a new common gaol and sessions' house,
with accommodations thereto, for the county of
Surrey." In pursuance of this Act, three acres
and a half of land, used by a market gardener,
were purchased ; and the two buildings were
erected under the direction of the late Mr. George
Gwilt, the county surveyor, the total cost having
amounted to nearly ^40,000. The Sessions House,
further, has been rebuilt; and since 1S75 the
whole of the interior of the structure has been re-
constructed upon improved principles, and the
building new fronted, under the direction of the
county surveyor.

CHAPTER XX.
NEWINGTON AND WALWORTH.

" Utrum rus an urbem appellem, prorsus hsreo." — Pluutits.

Etymology of Newington Butts — The " Elephant and Castle" — Joanna Southcott — Singular Discovery of Human Remains — The Drapers' Alms-
houses— The Fishmongers' Almshouses — Newington Grammar School — Hospital of Our Lady and St. Catherine — Newington Theatre — The
Semaphore Telegraph— The Metropolitan Tabernacle — Mr, C. H. Spurgeon— Mr. Spurgeon's Almshouses and Schools— St. Mary's Church,
Newington— The Old Parish Church— The Graveyard laid out as a Public Garden— The Clock Tower— The Old Parsonage House— The
'* Queen's Head " Tea Gardens — \ Great Flood— An Eminent Optician— The Surrey Zoological Gardens— The Music Hall— Walworth Road
—Carter Street Lecture Hall— The Walworth Literary and Mechanics' Institution— St. Peter's Church— St. John's Church.

Newington is within the limits of the parlia-
mentary borough of Lambeth ; it is a parish of
itself, and adjoins Southwark on the south. It was
anciently called Neweton, or New Town. Lysons
considers that in early times the church of this
parish stood at Walworth, and that on its removal
further westward, the buildings erected around it
gradually acquired the name of " the New Town."

A small portion of the main road through the
parish, running southward from the " Elephant and
Castle," is called Newington Butts, which, writes
Northouck, is thought to have been so designated,
" from the exercise of shooting at the butts which
was practised there, as in other parts of the king-
dom, to train the young men in archery." Other
writers, however, are of opinion that the derivation

is from the family of Butts, or Buts, who owned an
estate here.

The " Elephant and Castle" public-house, now
a mere central starting-point for omnibuses, was
formerly a well-known coaching house ; its sign
was the crest of the Cutlers' Company, into whose
trade ivory enters largely.

This celebrated tavern is situated about one mile
and a half from \Vestminster, Waterloo, and Black-
friars Bridges, and on a spot where several cross
roads meet, leading from these bridges to important
places in Kent and Surrey. Before railways drove
our old stage-coaches from the road, the " Elephant
and Castle" was a well-known locality to every
traveller going anywhere south of London. Its
character, however, has become to a certain extent

256

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Newington.

changed, and it is now chiefly known to the in-
habitants of Camberwell, Dulwich, Heme Hill,
Kennington, Stockwell, and Clapham.

In the Middle Ages, as we are reminded by Mr.
Larwood, in his " History of Signs," the elephant

had an additional renown. Within a few doors of
the old inn, Joanna Southcott, of whom we have
spoken in our notice of St. John's Wood,* set up
a meeting-house for her deluded followers. Her
disciple, Mr. Carpenter, covered the walls with

Vv'as nearly always represented with a castle on his strange pictures representing, as he said, visions

THE TELEGRAPH TOWER, IN 181O.

back. Early manuscripts rcjiresent the noble
brute with a tower strapped on his back, in which
are seen five knights in chain armour, with swords,
battle-axes, cross-bows, and emblazoned shields,
thus realising the words of the Roinan satirist,
Juvenal —

"Partem idi(|uam belli tt eiintiTii in prxli.i turiim."

The " castle," in elaborate and costly sets of chess-
men, is often set on the back of an " elephant."
In the early i)art of the present century this spot

he had received ; " thousands of deUisionists,"
observes a writer in the Dispatch, " visited the
chapel, and prayed that old Joanna might speedily
be delivered of the e.\pected Shiloh. But though
a silver cradle was subscribed for and presented.
Nature refused to work a miracle, and no Shiloh
came. After a time, Joanna and her friend Car-
penter (luarrelled. The old woman retired with

Soc Vol. v., p. 353.

Newingtou.J

THE FISHMONGERS' ALMSHOUSES.

257

another disciple, Mr. Tozer, to Duke Street, Lam-
beth, and there built another chapel, leaving
Carpenter in possession of the Newington house.
What he preached there we know not ; but in
fulness of time Joanna died, and then numbers
awoke to the delusion, and wondered how they
could have believed in the divine mission of the
ignorant, quarrelsome old woman."

In 1875, whilst some workmen were engaged
in laying down pipes for the water company, a
portion of the roadway in front of the " Elephant
and Castle," and within a few feet of the kerb, was
opened, when one of the men came upon what he
thought at first was a box, but what in the end
proved to be a coffin containing human remains.
These were found to be those of a person, it was
believed, of some sixteen years of age. All the
parts were nearly complete, but, singular to state,
there was an absence of either hands or feet. The
skull was in a wonderful state of preservation, but
on one side there was an indentation, as though
a blow had been given causing a fracture. In the
coffin was found a clasp-knife, somewhat resembling
that carried by sailors. There was also a piece of
woollen fabric, upon which were marks believed to
be those of blood. The discovery was considered
as very singular, considering the frequent altera-
tions that had been made in the roadway for years
past. It was believed that the coffin and contents
must have been under ground for quite 150 years.

In Cross Street, near the " Elephant and Castle,"
are the Drapers' Almshouses, founded by Mr. Joim
Walter, in 165 1. The houses are of brick, and
were rebuilt in 1778. To these almshouses the
parisli has the privilege of nominating six of its
own parishioners ; the remaintler are appointed by
the Drapers' Company.

On the west side of the Kennington Road, and
on the site now occupied by the horse repositorj',
the Metropolitan Tabernacle, and the colossal
block of buildings at the corner of St. George's
Road, stood for many years, down till the year
185 1, a picturesque cluster of almshouses belonging
to tlie Fishmongers' Company. There were two
separate buildings. One, St. Peter's Hospital, was
built by the company in 16 15-18 ; the other, due
to the munificence of Mr. James Hulbert, a livery-
man, dated its erection from 1719. These alms-
houses were quaint, old-fashioned, quadrangular
piles of building, of Gothic architecture, with mul-
lioned windows ; they were enclosed by low walls,
and in part surrounded by patches of garden-ground,
sunk below the roadway. They appear to have
been, from the first, in part supported by a volun-
tary appropriation, by the Company of Fishmongers,

of a portion of the revenues of Sir Thomas Knese-
worth's estate ; but the earliest benefaction which
can be considered as a specific endowment, and
which seems to have given occasion to tlie erection
of the hospital, was that by Sir Thomas Hunt, who,
" by will [April 26, 1615], gave out of his land in
Kent (or Kentish) Street, Southwark, ;^20 a year
to the poor of the Company of Fishmongers, on
condition that the company should build an hos-
pital, containing houses for six poor freemen, and
to have the houses rent free, and a yearly sum of
40s. a-piece, to be paid quarterly ; and every of
them, on St. Thomas's Day, to have a gown of
three yards of good cloth, of 8s. a yard, and also
6s. in money to make it up ; that if any alms-man
should die, and leave a wife, so long as she should
continue a widow, she should have lier dwelling
free, but if she should marry, she should not tarry
there ; and 40s. and a yearly gown should go to
some honest brother of the company, who should
wear the gown at times convenient, with the donor's
arms on it, and the dolphin at its top."

William Hunt, Esq., son of the above-mentioned
Sir Thomas, in accomplishment of his father's will,
executed two several grants of annuities of ^20
each, dated i6th of November, 1618, issuing from
cottages and lands in Kent Street, which annuiues
were granted " To the governors of St. Peter's
Hospital, founded by the wardens and commonalty
of the Mystery of Fishmongers."

In 1616 Mr. Robert Spencer gave ^50 towards
erecting twelve or more almshouses for the com-
pany's poor ; and in the following year, on men-
tion of Hunt's legacy and Spencer's donation, and
an estimate by the wardens that twelve dwellings
could be erected for ;^40o, the court of the com-
pany consented to the erecting thereof, " with all
convenient speed ;" and they obtained, on petition,
from James I., dated October 2, 1618, permission to
erect and establish the said almshouses, to be called
"St. Peter's Hospital," and the court of the company
to be incorporated by the name of " the Governors
of St. Peter's Hospital, founded by the wardens
and company of the Mystery of Fishmongers of
the City of London," &c., with a common seal,
power to hold lands, &c., and to make statutes for
the government of the said hospital. The court
ordered (November 23rd, 161S) that thirteen poor
men and women should be placed in the hospital
at the next Christmas, six of them being pursuant
to Hunt's will. Each of them were to receive so
much money weekly as, with the company's alms
and Hunt's legacy, sliould make their pensions
two shillings weekly.

By degrees more houses were added to those

258

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Ncwinj^ton.

originally built, and the whole building as it stood,
down to the time of its demolition, consisting of
twenty-two dwellings, a chapel, and a hall, was
finished in 1636, as appeared by an inscription on
the east front of the hall. The windows of the hall
were enriched with painted glass, and over the
chimney-piece were the arms, supporters, crest, and
motto of the Fishmongers' Company. St. Peter's
Hospital is now located at Wandsworth.

At the beginning of the seventeenth century
there was in this parish a theatre, in which the Lord
Admiral's and Lord Chamberlain's " servants " per-
formed. This theatre was occasionally used by
the players from the " Globe " at Bankside, in
Shakespeare's time.* The exact site of the above-
mentioned theatre is not known, but it was pro-
bably very near to the spot where now stands
the " Elephant and Castle " Theatre, on the south

NEWINGTON BUTTS IN

Hulbert's Almshouses were erected on a piece
of ground belonging to the Fishmongers' Company,
lying on the south side of St. Peter's Hospital. It
was a neat and imposing little pile, consisting of
three courts with gardens behind, together with a
dining-hall and chapel, and a statue of the founder
on a pedestal in the centre of the enclosure.

In the high road between the "Elephant and
Castle" and Kcnnington Park stood the old
Newington Grammar School, with the date 1666
over the door, but is now removed.

There was formerly a hospital of Our Lady and
St. Catherine at Newington, which continued till
the year 1551, when their proctor, William Cley-
brooke, being dispossessed of his home, was for-
tunate enough to obtain a licence to beg !

side of the New Kent Road, near the railway
station.

At a short distance westward of the Fish-
mongers' Almshouses, near to West Square, on the
south side of St. (George's Road, formerly stood
the tall hoarded structure represented in our illus-
tration on page 256. It served for some time the
purposes of a semaphore telegraph tower.

Nearly opposite the " Klei)li:int and Castle," and
on part of the ground formerly occupied by the
Fishmongers' Almshouses, stands the Metropolitan
Tabernacle— better known as "Spurgeon's Chapel,"
— the first stone of whicli was laid by Sir Samuel
Morton Peto in August, 1859. The edifice, which

* See aHte^ p. 50.

26o

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Newington.

is upwards of 140 feet long, 80 feet broad, and 60
feet high, is approached at the eastern end by a
flight of steps whicli extend the whole width of the
building. The principal entrances are beneath a
noble portico, the entablature and pediment of
which are supported by si.x lofty Corinthian columns.
The chapel contains some 5,500 sittings of all kinds.
There is room for 6,000 persons without excessive
crowding ; and there are also a lecture-hall capable
of holding about 900, a school-room for 1,000
children, six class-rooms, "kitchen, lavator)', and
retiring-rooms below stairs." Besides these the
building contains " a ladies' room for working
meetings, a young men's class-room, and a secre-
tary's room on the ground floor; three vestries, for
pastor, deacons, and elders on the first floor ; and
three store-rooms on the second floor."

As we have already had occasion to state,* the
congregation for whom this edifice was erected,
met originally in New Park Street Chapel, South-
wark. In the month of December, 1853, the
late Mr. C. H. Spurgeon, being then nineteen
years of age, preached there for the first time. It
may not be out of place here to say a few words
about tjie career of so eminent a preacher as Mr.
Spurgeon. Born at Kelvedon, in Essex, in June,
1834, he was educated at Colchester, and as youth
advanced he became usher in a school at New-
market. " Some of his relatives who were Inde-
pendents," as we gather from " Men of the Time,"
" proposed that he should enter one of their
colleges, and undergo a training for the ministry.
But his own convictions were in favour of other
views ; and accordingly he joined the church
formerly presided over by the late Robert Hall,
at Cambridge. From this period he became almost
entirely a village preacher and tract distributor.
At Teversham, a village near Cambridge, Mr.
Spurgeon, under the designation of ' the Boy
Preacher,' delivered his first sermon ; and shortly
afterwards he was invited to become ]:)astor at a
small Baptist chapel at Waterbeach. The invitation
was accepted. The lad of seventeen soon became
a celebrated character; the barn at ^Vaterbeach
was filled with auditors, while listening crowds
contented themselves with the sound of his voice
from the outside. Invitations to preach were sent
to him from the surrounding places. His fame
reached London ; and the church at New Park
Street, in Southwark, whose pul])it had in former
days been occupied by Dr. Rippon, now courted
his favours. This call being accepted, Mr. Spurgeon
made his first appearance before a London congre-

Scc anif, p. 39.

gation in 1853, with so much success, that ere two
years had passed away it was considered necessary
to enlarge the building, pending which alteration
he ofiiciated for four months at Exeter Hall ; and
that edifice was always so crowded, that hundreds
were turned away from the doors. The enlarge-
ment of Park Street Chapel, however, proved to be
insufficient. His hearers multiplied so rapidly that
it became expedient to engage the Surrey Music
Hall. A lamentable accident, however, having
occurred within its walls in October, 1856, his
followers erected for him a handsome new chapel
in the Kennington Road, which was publicly
opened in 1861." During the first seven years of
Mr. Spurgeon's ministry in London, and in con-
sequence of his untiring perseverance, upwards of
;^3 1,000 had been subscribed for the building,
and the structure was accordingly opened free of
debt.

During the short time that Mr. Spurgeon occupied
the platform at Exeter Hall, paragraphs appeared in
the newspapers announcing that "the Strand was
blocked up by crowds who gathered to hear a
young man in Exeter Hall." Remarks of no very
flattering character appeared in various journals,
and the multitude was thereby increased. Carica-
tures adorned the printsellers' windows ; among
them one entitled " Catch-'em-alive-O !" wherein
the popular preacher was depicted with his head
surmounted by one of those peculiarly-prepared
sheets of fly-paper known by that name, to which
were adhering or fluttering all sorts of winged
characters — from the Lord Chancellor down to
Mrs. Gamp — and in the most ridiculous attitudes :
Mr. Spurgeon's name, too, continued to be made
more and more known by pamphlets and letters
in the papers, which all tended to swell the crowd.
As we shall have more to say of Mr. Spurgeon
and his preaching presently, when dealing with the
music-hall in the Surrey Gardens, we will only add
here that in treating of the hostility which the
Puritans and Nonconformists have always shown
to the stage, M. Alphonse Esquiros remarks in his
" English at Home," that " one of the fiercest
diatribes against the dramatic art was lately (1862)
uttered by Mr. Spurgeon;'' and he adds, "As Mr.
Spurgeon is an eloquent preacher, but borrows
several of his best effects from theatrical action,
it has been asked whether a little professional
jealousy has not been mixed up with his attacks."
It would seem, however, as if there were no limits
to Mr. Spurgeon's popularity, as was shown at his
death and funeral in 1891.

In connection with the Metropolitan Tabernacle
arc some almshouses and schools; a college

Newington.]

THE PARISH CHURCH.

261

for training young men for the Nonconformist
ministry ; and an orphanage at Stockwell.

At a short distance beyond the MetropoHtan
Tabernacle, down to the close of the year 1875,
the roadway running southward was considerably
narrowed, and formed an awkward bend, by the in-
convenient position of the old parish church of St.
Mary, Newington, the eastern end of which closely
abutted on the roadway. The extent of St. Mary's
parish is thus set forth in the " New View of
London" (1708): — "Beginning at the windmill
near Mr. Bowyer's by Camberwell, and two fields
thence westward and to Kennington Common, it
extends northward from thence to Newington
Church, and thence both sides of the road to the
Fishmongers' Almshouses exclusive : and then on
the easterly side of the way to the turning to Kent
Street, with all the western side of that street to
the Lock ; then they pass, in walking the bounds,
through Walworth Field and Common, and thence
to the said windmill again : in which circuit is con-
tained the number of 620 dwelling houses."

Not only Lysons, as we have already mentioned,
but also other writers on the churches of Surrey,
have stated that St. Mary's Church stood at some
distance farther eastward, or have at all events
expressed some ditTerence of opinion upon the
subject. Dr. H. C. Barlow, in an article in the
Builder in May, 1874, endeavours to prove that the
original site of the church — that, at least, of the
Domesday Record — was where the fabric stood
down to the time of its recent removal. Dr.
Barlow writes : — " By means of an old document,
found some years ago among my grandfather's
papers — -a copy of a terrier of the glebe lands,
houses, &c., made in 1729, and of which he took
a copy in 1799, when Rector's Warden — I am
enabled to demonstrate that the church, smce the
Norman Conquest, has never changed its situation.
In that portion of Domesday Book which relates
to Surrey, there is a description of the manor of
Waleorde (Walworth), where it is said there is a
church with eight acres of meadow-land. The
first mention of Neweton (Newington) occurs in
the Testa de Nevil {sivc Liber Feodoriim in Curia
Saccarii), of the time of Henry III., or the first
half of the thirteenth century ; it is there stated
that the queen's goldsmith holds of the king, in
capite, one acre of land in Neweton, by the service
of rendering a gallon of honey. In the taxation
of spiritualities made by Pope Nicholas IV., in
1292, the church is spoken of as being at New-
ington ; and in the Archbishop of Canterbury's
Register, 1313, the parish is called Newington
juxta London.

"The living was a rectory, then in the arch-
bishop's gift, and of increasmg value. In the
time of King Edward tlic Confessor it was worth
only XXX. solidi, but when the Domesday Survey
was made it was worth double that sum. The
manor, on the contrary, was becoming of less im-
portance. The first notice we have of it is that
Edmund Ironside gave it to Hitard, his jester,
who, on going to Rome, gave it to Christ Church,
Canterbury. In King Edward's time it was taxed
for five hides (500 acres), but at the time of the
survey, for three hides and a half only, nearly one-
third less. After the thirteenth century we hear
no more of the church at Walworde ; from that
time the church is said to be at Newington. The
question, therefore, is, did the original church
stand at Walworth, and was subsequently moved
to Newington, or did it only change its name with
the new name given to the parish ? Lysons, who
wrote, in 1791, 'Environs of London,' suggests that
the church might have been rebuilt on a new site,
and becoming surrounded by houses, the locality
received the name of Neweton, or Newtown, sub-
sequently Newington. But this suggestion is a
mere hypothesis. Where churches have been first
built there is a general disposition on the part
of ecclesiastics to retain them ; the pious com-
monly desire to worship God where their fore-
fathers knelt before them, and it is the duty of the
clergy to encourage this sentiment. In those days
there were no London improvements required
at Newington to endanger the sacred fabric and
change its hallowed locality. When churches
need rebuilding, it has been the rule in England
to rebuild them where they stood before, and I
shall be able to show that the church at Walworde,
otherwise Newington, was no exception to this
laudable practice.

" The words of Domesday record are — ' Ibi
Ecckiia et viii. acrm prati.' These eight acres
of meadow-land were attached to the church, and
formed the church field. They were also con-
tiguous to the manor, which was of large extent,
and in King Edward's time, consisting of 500 acres,
occupied nearly the whole of the present parish,
which contains only 630 acres, including Walworth
Common. Even the 350 acres, the extent of
the manor at the time of the Conquest, supposing
the present manor-house to stand near the site
of the original one, and to indicate the probable
centre of the manor, would bring the situation of
Newington Church within the full meaning of
the words ' Ibi Ecdesia et viii. acra prati.' The
old church at Newington had a low square tower
of flint and rag-stone, similar to other church

262

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Newington-

towers in Surrey that date from the fourteenth
century, or somewhat earlier, and its becoming
surrounded with houses was comparatively a recent
event.

" Manning and Bray, in their great history of
Surrey, have no hesitation in considering Waleorde
(Walworth), still the name of the manor, to be the
same as Newington ; and the Rev. Mr. Hussey,
in his account of the churches in Surrey, remarks,
if this be so, then the Domesday church was at
Newington, not at Walworth. The Domesday
church was where the eight acres of meadow-land
were, and these were
at Newington.

"Among the
items contained in
the terrier of the
glebe lands, &c.,
made in 1729, when
the Rev. Wm. Tas-
well was rector, is
one which begins as
follows: — ^ Itetn. On
the south side of the
churchyard there
lies a parcel of pas-
ture and meadow
ground, called the
church-field, in the
occupation of the
Widow Harwood,
containing about
seven and a - half
acres. This church-
field formerly con-
tained eight acres,
but in the year 1648,
part of it, containing
in length about two
hundred yards, and
in breadth about

four yards, was taken out of it to make a footway
leading from Newington to the east end of Kin-
nington Lane ; and in the year 1 7 1 8, the trustees
for mending and repairing the road from Newing-
ton to Vauxhall took about fourteen feet in breadth,
and about forty-eight feet in length, from the
church-field aforesaid, to widen the road turning
from Newington to Kinnington, which road was
before so narrow, that two waggons could not meet
there '

" The terrier also states that two small pieces
of the church-field were taken, one about 1637,
and the other in 1665, to enlarge the churchyard.
There can be no manner of doubt, therefore, but

that the church, with its eight acres of meadow-
land, recorded in ' Domesday Book,' was one and
the same with the church at Newington, and
that we may say of the latter, as the record says of
the former, '' Ibi Ecclesia et viii. acra prati,' though
it would now be impossible to find any portion of
the latter which has not been brought into subjec-
tion under the despotic law of the spread of bricks
and mortar."

The old parish church of Newington appears
to have been, in earlier days, a very small and
insignificant structure ; Sir Hugh Brawne added a

north aisle about

the year 1600. In
the early part of the
last century several
hundred pounds
were expended in
repairing and "orna-
menting" the fabric;
but this was all to
very little purpose,
for in a few years
it was found neces-
sary that the whole
building, except the
tower, should be
taken down. The
new church, on the
same inconvenient
spot, by the side of
a great road, was
opened in March,
172 1. Being found inadequate to the increased number
of inhabitants, an Act of Parliament was obtained in
1 790 for rebuilding the church upon a larger scale. The
work of reconstruction was commenced in the following
year, and completed in about two years. The unsightly
structure was constructed of brick, with a portico in the
west front, and on the roof was a small bell-turret.

In this church, according to Manning and Bray's
" History of Surrey," was buried a certain facetious
individual, Mr. Serjeant Davy, who died in 1780,
and of whom a good story is told. He was origi-
nally a chemist at Exeter ; and a sheriff's oflicer
coming to serve on him a process from tlie Court
of Common Pleas, he civilly asked him if he would
not take something to drink. While the man was
leisurely quenching his thirst Davy contrived to
heat the poker, and then told the bailiff tliat if
he did not eat the writ, which was of shecjjskin,
he should be made to swallow the poker. The
oflicer very naturally preferred the parchment ;
but the Court of Common I'leas, not being then
accustomed to Davy's jokes, sent him an order to

Newlngton.]

NEVVINGTON CHURCH.

263

appear at Westminster Hall, and committed Iiim
to the Fleet Prison for contempt. From this
strange circumstance he acquired his first taste for
the law. On his discharge from prison he applied
himself to the study of it in earnest, was called to
the bar, obtained the coif, and enjoyed a good
practice for many years.

Here, too, was buried Thomas Middleton,
author of the Mask of Cupid; A Mad World, my
Masters ; the Spanish Gipsy; Anything for a
Quiet Life, and very many other comedies, besides
sundry less well-known tragedies. He died in
July, 1627 ; and his widow, who followed him to
the grave next year, was buried at the expense of
the Corporation of London, who had employed
her husband to write the Mask of Cupid, per-
formed with other " solemnities " at Merchant
Taylors' Hall, to commemorate the marriage of
the infamous Earl and Countess of Somerset.

On the floor of the old church was, among
others, the grave-stone of George Powell, who is
said, by the editor of " Aubrey's Perambulations of
Surrey," to have been styled " King of the Gipsies,"
and to have died in the year 1 704, in very flourish-
ing circumstances — in fact, as rich, or rather as
poor, as a king.

The churchyard, which was enlarged by Act of
Parliament in the reign of George H., contains
among its numerous monuments one to the
memory of William Allen, a young man who was
killed by the firing of the soldiers in the riots
which took place in St. George's Fields, in 1768,
on the occasion of the confinement of John Wilkes
in the King's Bench Prison ; around the monument
are several inscriptions expressing strong political
feelings.

" The most eminent ecclesiastic who ever held
this rectory," writes Thomas Allen, in his " History
of Surrey," " was Dr. Samuel Horsley, who was
presented to it in 1759. This eminent character
was born in the parish of St. Martin-in-the-Fields,
in October, 1733. He was educated at West-
minster School, and Trinity Hall, Cambridge,
where he took the degree of LL.B. In 1767 he
was chosen a Fellow of the Royal Society, and he
soon after published some elaborate treatises. In
1768 he took the degree of LL.D., and in 1773 he
was elected secretary to the Royal Society, and not
long after the Earl of Aylesford presented him to
the rectory of Aldbury, in this county. About
1784 Dr. Horsley withdrew from the Royal Society,
and about the same period commenced a literary
conference with the great champion of Unitarianism,
Dr. Priestley. The talent and energy with which
he exerted himself called forth the approbation of

Lord Chancellor Thurlow, who characteristically
remarked that ' those who defended the Church
ought to be supported by the Church,' and accord-
ingly presented him to a prebendal stall in
Gloucester Cathedral, and shortly after he was
made Bishop of St. David's. In his episcopal
character he supported the reputation for learning
and ability which he had previously acquired. In
Parliament he was the strenuous advocate for the
existing state of things in religion and politics ;
and the merit of his conduct will accordingly be
differently appreciated with reference to the various
opinions of different persons. His zeal did not go
unrewarded, for he was presented to the see of
Rochester in 1 793, and made Dean of Westminster ;
and in 1802 he was translated to St. Asaph. He
died at Brighton, October 4, 1806, and was interred
in St. Mary's Church, Newington."

In this church was baptised, about the year 1810,
George Alexander Gratton, a spotted negro boy,
who was shown about London and the provinces
as a curiosity by Richardson. He died when only
five years old, in February, 18 13, and was buried
at Great Marlow, where there is a monument to
his memory.

In 187 1, it was proposed by the late Board of
Works, under the Metropolitan Improvements Act,
to have the church removed, so as to widen the
roadway at that point, and an offer of ^^5, 000 was
made by the Board for that special purpose. In
1875 a grant of ;^4,ooo was obtained from the
London Churches Fund, and a subscription, headed
by the rector with ^1,000, was opened among the
parishioners for the remainder of the money re-
quired, about ;^9,ooo. A site for a new church
was obtained from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners,
in a more central part of the parish, on the east
side of the Kennington Park Road. This church,
a large and lofty Gothic edifice of stone, having
been completed, with the exception of the tower,
the demolition of the old church was forthwith
commenced. In 1876 the materials of the old
edifice were disposed of by public auction, and
realised a sum of ^538. The remains of some
five hundred persons were carefully removed from
the churchyard, and re-interred in a vault built for
the purpose. In one instance two bodies were
taken~fi-om under the altar, and the inscriptions
on the coffins showed that they were the remains
of Dr. Horsley and his wife, the latter of whom
died in 1805. The remains were in a state of
preservation, having been buried some fifteen feet
below the surface. They were removed to Thorley,
in Herts, by the family of the deceased bishop.
Among the other remains which were disinterred

264

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

L Mewington.

there was the skeleton of
buried in a complete suit
boots being perfect.

Besides the old church
High Street close by were
time, and the graveyard,
widening of the road, was
to the public as a garden.
by some neat iron railings

a man who had been
of black, the coat and

several houses in the
demolished at the same

thus curtailed by the
set in order and opened

The whole is enclosed
and gates ; and a hand-

of a position in which it can be well seen, cost the
donor ^5,000.

The old parsonage-house, which stood in the rear
of the church and of Mr. Spurgeon's " Tabernacle,"
and which was reputed to date from the sixteenth
century, was built of wood, and surrounded at one
tmie by a moat, over which were several bridges.
The land in the immediate neighbourhood was
formerly intersected by numerous ditches, some of

OLD .\LV.i:-,UTU.N CHURCH IN lS66.

some Gothic clock-tower has been erected on the
site of the church. This tower is fourteen feet
square at the base, and carried up in five stages
with buttresses to a height of about a hundred feet.
The clock-face is placed at the height of seventy
feet. In the lower part of the building the material
is Portland stone, the remainder being of Bath
stone, and the front to Newington Butts, as well as
the two sides, is enriched with carvings in florid
Gothic. There is a doorway in the centre of the
front, with windows in the upper part. On the
left side of the doorway is the following inscription :
— " This tower was built at the expense of Robert
Faulconer, Esq., Anno Domini 1S77, on the site
of the old parish church of .St. Mary's, Newington."
This handsome gift, which has tlic great advantage

which existed till quite recent times. They ran
in various directions, completely surrounding the
rectory grounds. To reach the " Queen's Head "
tea-gardens, which occupied the site of the present
National Schoolroom, it was necessary to cross
some of these ditches by a small wooden bridge.
The tea-gardens were in a line with Temple Street,
at the western end of the Metropolitan Tabernacle.
Indeed, so well watered was the neighbourhood of
Newington Butts, that, if we may believe tradition,
in 157 1 occurred a great flood, so that the people
were obliged to be conveyed in boats from the
church " to the pinfolds, near St. George's, in
Southwark."

Among the residents of Newington in the middle
of the last century, was James Short, an eminent

Walworth.]

THE SURREY ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS.

265

optician, and a native of Edinburgh. He enjoyed
a high reputation in his day for the excellence of
his reflecting telescopes, of the Gregorian kind, by
the sale of which he amassed a large fortune. He
died at Newington in 1768.

On the east side of Kennington Park Road,

and soon after obtained possession of the grounds
formerly attached to the ' Manor House ' at Wal-
worth. The grounds comprised in all about fifteen
acres, which were utilised to their fullest extent,
exclusive of a sheet of water covering nearly three
acres more. The gardens were approached from

near the junction of that thoroughfare with Ken-
nington Lane and Newington Butts, is Penton
Place, through which was one of the approaches to
the Surrey Gardens, formerly known as the Surrey
Zoological Gardens. This place of entertainment,
which has undergone many vicissitudes, is thus
described by a writer in the Era Almanack for
1871:—

"When Exeter Change ceased to exist, the
then proprietor, Mr. Edward Cross, removed his
menagerie to the King's Mews at Charing Cross,
268 .

Manor Place, Walworth, and tliere was a second entrance
from Penton Place, Kennington Road. The large con-'
servatory, three hundred feet in circumference, and con-
taining upwards of 6,000 feet of glass, was at that time the
largest building of its kind in England. This was afterwards
used to enclose the cages of the lions, tigers, and other
carnivora. In the year 1834 was exhibited here a one-
horned Indian rhinoceros, for which Cross paid
^800 ; two years later three giraffes were added
to his collection. The first picture was ' Mount
"Vesuvius,' painted by Danson, in 1837, the lake
representing the Bay of Naples, and a display of
fireworks serving vividly to illustrate the eruption,
which was nightly repeated in the presence of
admiring crowds, and served as the chief attraction
of the place for upwards of two years. Then
followed, in 1839, a representation of 'Iceland
and Mount Hecla;' in 1841, the 'City of Rome,'

266

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Walworth.

which occupied five acres, and was painted on a
surface upwards of 250,000 feet square; in 1843,
the ' Temple of Ellora ; ' in 1844, ' London during
the Great Fire of 1666;' in 1S45, 'he 'City of
Edinburgh.' In 1846 'Vesuvius' was reproduced;
in 1848 there was a revival of 'Rome;' in 1849
there was the ' Storming of Badajoz,' with ' new
effects of real ordnance.' In this same year M.
Jullien organised a series of promenade concerts
on four evenings in each week, the admission
remaining fixed, as before, at a shilling. The fire-
works were always a great attraction of the gardens.
In 1850 was e.xhibited 'Napoleon's Passage over
the Alps ; ' in this picture were represented some
fifty thousand men in motion, who, in the front,
appeared of life-size, and who, in fact, were living
men, but who were made, by an optical illusion,
to dwindle gradually at different distances to the
veriest specks which the eye could track along the
zigzag line of ascent towards the summit of the
Alpine Pass, where stood the monastery of St.
Bernard, ready to receive the weary and half-frozen
troops and their imperial master. On the death of
Mr. Cross the proprietorship and management of
the gardens devolved on his secritary and assistant,
a man named Tyler, who conducted them for
some years, when the property became vested in a
Limited Liability Company. In 1856 the gardens
were put up to auction, and the Surrey Music Hall
was erected upon a portion of the grounds. The
gardens were used in 1856 for the purpose of
entertaining the Guards with a public dinner after
their return from the Crimea; and again, in 1862,
they were re-opened with a picture of the ' City and
Bay of Naples,' showing Vesuvius in the distance.
But the fitful taste of the public did not care for
the revival ; and though a variety of fresh amuse-
ments in succession was announced and provided,
yet it was found that the place had lost its popu-
larity to a degree which was irretrievable, and ac-
cordingly the gardens were closed. The grounds
were aftsrwards more advantageously occupied, as
the temporary Hospital of St. Thomas, before its
removal to Lambeth Walk."

The principal walks and avenues were planted
with every description of native and exotic forest
trees that would endure the climate ; whilst the
beautiful sheet of water, mentioned above, was
spotted with islands, shrubberies, and plantations
of great richness. Numerous rustic-looking build-
ings, with thatched roofs, were to be seen in dif-
ferent i)arls, each of them adding to the picturesque-
ness of the grounds. Mr. Loudon, the editor of the
Cardcneis MiV^iizine, thus speaks of the buildings
in these gardens at the time of their opening : —

"The London Zoological Society has certainly
the merit of taking the lead in this description of
garden ; but Mr. Cross has not only proceeded
more rapidly than they have done, but has erected
more suitable and more imposing structures than
are yet to be found in the gardens in the Regent's
Park. What is there, for example, in the latter
garden which can be at all compared with the
circular glass building 300 feet in diameter, com-
bining a series of examples of tropical quadru-
peds and birds, and of exotic plants ? In the
plan of this building the animals (lions, tigers,
leopards, &c.) are kept in separate cages or com-
partments towards the centre ; exterior to them is
a colonnade, supporting the glazed roof, and also
for cages of birds ; within this colonnade will be
placed hot-water pipes for heating the whole, and
beyond it is an open paved area for spectators ;
next, there is a channel for a stream of water,
intended for gold, silver, and other exotic fishes ;
and, beyond, a border, under the front wall, for
climbing plants, to be trained on wires under the
roof"

The grounds were laid out under the superin-
tendence of Mr. Henry Phillips, the author of
" Sylva Florifera," and it is almost impossible to
give the reader an idea of their beauty and variety.
Besides the large glass building mentioned above,
there were several movable aviaries and cages for
the feathered tribes; whilst one of the prettiest
spots was the " beaver-dam," a small pond partly
enclosed "by rockwork. Altogether, at one time
these gardens offered a great rival attraction to
those at the Regent's Park, which we have already
described.* In 1834 a live female gorilla was
added to this menagerie, and proved a great
favourite of the visitors. The collection here was
not so extensive as that in the Regent's Park, but
some of the animals were much finer, particularly
one of the lions.

A story — we fear rather apocryphal — is told of
one of the lions here in the early j^art of their
existence. A small black spaniel being thrown
into his cage, instead of killing and eating it, the
king of beasts took it under his protection, fondled
it, and played with it ; and when it died, the lion
was so deeply grieved that he survived the loss of
his companion only a few days !

The volcanic exhibitions at the Surrey Zoological
Gardens probably had their origin in the Ranclagh
spectacles of the last century; for in 1792 was
shown in the latter gardens a beautiful representa-
tion of Mount Etna, with the flowing of the lava

• See Vol v., p. 381

Walworth.)

THE SURREY MUSIC HALL.

267

down its sides. The height of the boarded work
which represented the mountain was about eighty
feet, and the whole exhibited a curious specimen
of machinery and pyrotechnics. Of the Surrey
Gardens, as they existed in the year of grace 1850,
Mr. H. Mayhew wrote, " Mount Etna, the fashion-
able volcano of the season, just now is vomiting
here its sky-rockets and Roman candles."

During the last few years of their existence, these
gardens added the attractions of music. A large
covered orchestra, capable of accommodating a
large number of performers, was fitted up on the
margin of the lake, for the purpose of giving open-

Mr. Spurgeon, on his first rush into popularity ;
and on the first occasion of holding these services
—the evening of October 19, 1856— it was the
scene of a serious and fatal accident, seven persons
being killed by a false alarm of fire raised by some
reckless and wanton jesters. We have already
spoken of Mr. Spurgeon in our account of the
Metropolitan Tabernacle, but we may further re-
mark here that, notwithstanding the above-men-
tioned occurrence, large numbers continued for
the space of three years to hear Mr. Spurgeon
on Sunday mornings. A letter, signed " Habitatis
in Sicca" and dated from " Broad Phylactery, ^Vest-

VIEW IN IIIE SURREY G.\RDENS, 185O.

air concerts on a gigantic scale ; and this was
retained during the summer months by Jullien's
band. Jullien led the orcliestra at the concerts
here in 1851, the year of the Great Exhibition.

The Surrey Music Hall, mentioned above — a
large oblong building — is admirably adapted for
the purposes for which it was built. At each
corner are octagonal towers containing staircases,
originally crowned by ornamental turrets. An
arcade surrounds the ground-floor, whilst to the
first and second floors are external galleries covered
by verandas. The great hall, which holds 12,000
persons, exclusive of the orchestra, cost upwards
of ^'18,000. It is twenty feet longer and thirty
feet wider than the Great Room at Exeter Hall.

On Sundays it was used temporarily, as we have
seen, for the religious services held by the late

minster," appeared at this period in the Times;
part of it ran as follows : — " ' I want to hear
Spurgeon ; let us go.' Now, I am supposed to be
a High Churchman, so I answered, ' What ! go
and hear a Calvinist — a Baptist ! — a man who ought
to be ashamed of himself for being so near the
Church, and yet not within its pale?' 'Never
mind ; come and Inear him.' Well, we went
yesterday morning to the Music Hall, in the
Surrey Gardens Fancy a congregation con-
sisting of 10,000 souls, streaming into the hall,
mounting the galleries, humming, buzzing, and
swarming — a mighty hive of bees — eager to secure
at first the best places, and, at last, any place at
all. After waiting more than half an hour — for
if you wish to have a seat you must be there
at least that space of time in advance — Mr.

268

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Walworth.

Spurgeon ascended his tribune. To the hum, and
rush, and trampling of men, succeeded a low, con-
centrated thrill and murmur of devotion, which
seemed to run at once, like an electric current,
through the breast of every one present, and by
this magnetic chain the preacher held us fast bound
for about two hours. It is not my purpose to give
a summary of his discourse. It is enough to say
of his voice, that its power and volume are sufficient
to reach every one in that vast assembly ; of his
language, that it is neither high-flown nor homely ;
of his style, that it is at times familiar, at times
declamatory, but always happy, and often eloquent ;
of his doctrine, that neither the ' Calvinist ' nor
the ' Baptist ' appears in the forefront of the battle
which is waged by Mr. Spurgeon with relentless
animosity, and with Gospel weapons, against irre-
ligion, cant, hypocrisy, pride, and those secret
bosom-sins which so easily beset a man in daily
life ; and to sum up all in a word, it is enough to
say of the man himself, that he impresses you with
a perfect conviction of his sincerity. But I have
not written so much about my children's want of
spiritual food when they listened to the mumbling

of the Archbishop of , and my own banquet

at the Surrey Gardens, without a desire to draw a
practical conclusion from these two stories, and to
point them by a moral. Here is a man not more
Calvinistic than many an incumbent of the Estab-
lished Church who ' humbles and mumbles,' as old
Latimer says, over his liturgy and text — here is a
man who says the complete immersion, or some-
thing of the kind, of adults, is necessary to baptism.
These are his faults of doctrine ; but if I were the

examining chaplain of the Archbishop of , I

would say, ' May it please your grace, here is a
man able to preach eloquently, able to fill the
largest church in England with his voice, and,
what is more to the purpose, with people. And
may it please your grace, here are two churches in
the metropolis, St. Paul's and Westminster Abbey.
What does your grace think of inviting Mr. Spur-
geon, this heretical Calvinist and Baptist, who is
able to draw i.o,ooo souls after him, just to try his
voice, some Sunday morning, in the nave of either
of those churches ? ' "

In June, 1861, shortly after being vacated by
Mr. Spurgeon, the Music Hall was destroyed by
fire. It was, however, rebuilt, and for a time was
occupied as a temporary hospital diirinj; the demo-
lition of St. Thomas's Hospital at London Bridge
and the erection of the new building near West-
minster Bridge.

The old Manor House of Walworth is kept in
remembrance by Manor Road and Manor Place,

the last-named thoroughfare uniting Penton Place
with Walworth Road. Close by, in Penrose Street,
is a commodious lecture-hall, built in 1862, under
the auspices of the Walworth Mechanics' Institute.
This institution was founded in 1845, '" Manor
Place, and is the only literary and scientific institu-
tion on a large scale on the south side of the
Thames ; the library contains some 5,000 volumes,
and it has a reading-room in the Walworth Road.

Since the commencement of the present century
a considerable advance has been made in the way
of buildings in this neighbourhood, particularly on
the east side of the Walworth Road. Lock's
Fields, formerly a dreary swamp, and Walworth
Common, which was at one time an open field,
have been covered with houses. In Paragon Row
the Fishmongers' Company have erected several
model dwellings, with the aim of benefiting a very
poor locality. The dwellings have been built on
the " flat " system, realising as nearly as possible the
idea of the cottage character, and replacing old and
dilapidated houses of an inferior class.

Whatever this locaUty may be in the present
day, it has not been without its places of amuse-
ment in former times, for we learn from Colburn's
" Kalendar of Amusements " for 1840, that tlie
Marylebone and Oxford cricket clubs played a
match in that year at the " Beehive " grounds,
Walworth.

In 1823 the first stone of St. Peter's Church,
Walworth, was laid by the Archbishop of Canter-
bury, immediately after the performance of the
like ceremony at Trinity Church, in this parish.*
The church, which is situated at a short distance
on the eastern side of the Walworth Road, is built
of brick, with the exception of the steeple and
architectural ornaments, which are constructed of
stone. The basement is occupied by spacious
catacombs.

St. John's Church, which stands a short distance
backward on the eastern side of the Walworth Road,
near York Street, is a lofty and handsome Gothic
building, in the Decorated style, and was erected
in 1865, at a cost of upwards of ^5,000. It was
endowed by the Dean and Chapter of Canterbury,
who arc the patrons.

Walworth is not entirely devoid of liistorical
memorabilia, if tradition is to be trusted ; a native
of this village for such it must have been in his
day — was William Walworth, the celebrated Lord
Mayor of London, who slew Wat Tyler with his own
hand, and who, in memory of the deed, caused a
dagger to be added to the arms of the City.

" Sec anU, l>. 353.

Camberwell.]

ANTIQUITY OF THE PARISH.

269

CHAPTER XXI.

CAMBERWELL.

" Hx lalebrae dulces, et jam, si credis, amrenas." — Horace,

Antiquity of the Parish— Its Etymology— Its Condition at the Time of the Conquest— Descent of the Manor— Sir Thomas Bond's House— The
Bowyer Family— Bowyer Lane, now Wyndham Road— The Royal Flora Gardens— St. Giles's Church— The Burial-place of Mrs. Wesley,
and of "Equality" Brown— Camden Chapel— St. George's Church— The Vestry Hail— Camberwell Green— Camberwell Fair — Abolition of
the Fair, and the Green converted into a Park- The " Father Redcap"— The Old House on the Green— The Green Coat and National
Schools— The Camberwell Free Grammar School — The Aged Pilgrims' Friend Asylum— Rural Character of Camberwell in the Last Century
— Myatt's Farm — Cold Harbour Lane — Denmark Hill Grammar School— Grove Hill and Dr. Lettsom's Residence there — The Story of George
Barnwell— Grove Hall — The " Fox-under-the-Hill "—Old Families of Camberwell — Tom Hood a Resident here — Camberwell Lunatic Asylum.

Camberwell is now so truly part and parcel of
the metropolis that it would be impossible to write
an account of London south of the Thames with-
out some notice of its past and present history.
No one, we are told, can assert at what period the
parish became an inhabited spot. Local anti-
quaries find pleasure in tracking the path of the
Roman conquerors of Britain across the hills and
valleys which surround the metropolis. Their
legions, as we know, had various camps in the
neighbourhood of Londinium, and it is not impro-
bable that they formed one on the pretty hill, known
in later days as Ladlands, or Primrose Hill, best
reached from Camberwell by way of Dog-kennel
Lane, in the southern part of the parish. It must
have been a commanding position in those days,
when the Thames at high tide expanded into a vast
lake, reaching to the base of the rounded Surrey
hills, near which were marshes inhabited by
bitterns, herons, and other waterfowl. At Heme
Hill, in this neighbourhood — by the way, thought
by some to have been originally Heron Hill — Mr.
Ruskin spent much of his childhood.

Coming down to times the history of which is
more defined and authentic, we find Camberwell
mentioned in Domesday Book as a manor of
some value. The name is written "Ca'brewelle,"
and the adjoining manor, Peckham, is described
as "Pecheha." In subsequent records we meet
with " Camerwell," " Cambwell," and " Kamwell."
Some etymologists trace the first portion of the
name to the British cmnji /lir, long valley ; and sup-
pose that the last syllable has reference to some
springs of water, at one time famous. This may
be the case, for there are, or were, mineral springs
at Dulwich, Nor\vood (the Beulah Spa is memor-
able), and other places in the neighbourhood. It
may be added that, as the parish church has been
dedicated from Saxon times to St. Giles, the
especial patron of cripples, it has been suggested
that there were certain springs in the neighbour-
hood possessing salutary virtues for persons so
afflicted ; and that as the old British word cam
signifies " crooked," Camberwell may simply mean

"the well of the crooked." Within the last cen-
tury or so three ancient wells were discovered in a
field in the parish, but they were covered in again
by the owner of the land.

At the time of the Conquest, Camberwell is
described as being " large and well inhabited." Its
inhabitants were cottars and men of a lower grade,
ceorls or churls. There was so much wood and
waste ground in the neighbourhood that the lord
of the manor had paid to him a rent of sixty fat
hogs, which were fed on the beech-masts and acorns
which abounded in the neighbourhood. There
were, besides, sixty-three acres of meadow-land,
and, as we have said, a church. In the Saxon
times there was but one manor here, which was
held of Edward the Confessor by Haims, " Vis-
count," or Count Depute, of Brixton Hundred, or,
as some writers have it, SherilT of Surrey. Some-
what later we hear of the manor of Pecheha, or
Peckham, being granted to William's half-brother,
Odo, Bishop of Bayeux, who sublet to the Bishop of
Lisieux. There were also other manors of Bretyng-
hurst, Dovedale (D'Ovedale, or Dowdale), Camber-
well, Frieme, Basyng, Hatcham, Cold Herbergh,
and Milkwell. William, Earl of Gloucester, natural
son of Henry I., who possessed a portion of the
original Camberwell manor, including Peckham,
gave the church to the monks of Bermondsey, but
the manor remained in the family until the year
1350. Margaret, daughter and heiress of Hugh,
the then earl, married Ralph, the first Earl of
Stafford, whose descendant became Duke of Buck-
ingham. The manor was then named Camber\vell-
Buckingham, and remained the property of the
family until Edward, Duke of Buckingham, was
attainted and beheaded in 1521. After passing
through various hands, it was purchased in 1583
by one Edmund Bowyer, whose descendants yet
retain a considerable portion of it. The manors
of Bretynghurst, Basyng, and Dovedale were so
named from their original possessors, and the
brethren of the hospital of St. Thomas, Southwark,
held the manor of Milkwell, and subsequently
granted it to the church of St. Mary Overie.

270

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

ICamberwell.

After the suppression of religious houses it was
granted to Sir Thomas AVyctt, who, as we know,
was beheaded for his attempted rebellion, in the
first year of Queen Mary's reign.

The main road from Kent, intersecting the
eastern portion of the parish, was known in the
fourteenth century as Bretynghurst or Dredynghurst
Road ; and afterwards as Kinges Street, because
along that thoroughfare the royal and state pro-

Camberwell, as it is now written, was officially and
locally recognised. Lysons, in his " Environs of
London," writes, " I can find nothing satisfactory
with respect to its etymology ; the termination
seems to point out some remarkable spring ; a part
of the parish is called Milkwell, and a mineral
water was discovered some years ago [1739] near
Dulwich." There was formerly a fine brick well
on the De Crespigny estate, on Denmark Hill ;

OLD CAMBLRWELL CHURCH IN 1750.

cessions passed on their way from Kent to London
and Westminster.

Camberwell is described by Priscilla Wakefield,
in her " Perambulations," publislied in 1S09, as a
" pleasant retreat for those citizens who have a
taste for the country whilst their avocations daily
call them to town."

In the Domesday Rook this parish is called
" Ca'berwelle." Subsequently the letter b was
changed, and from the eleventh to the sixteenth
century the name of the parish is generally written
ill official documents as Camwcll, Cammerwcll, or
Camerwell. In the seventeenth century, as Mr.
Blanch informs us in his " History of the Parish,"
the b found its way back again ; but it was not
until the middle of the eighteenth century that

but Dr. Lettsom, whose villa on Grove Hill we
shall have occasion to notice presently, laid claim
to the honour of possessing in his grounds the
identical well from which this parish derived its
appellation. .Salmon, the Surrey historian, says,
" It seems to be named from some mineral water
which was anciently in it ; " and Bray adopts the
same idea. The author of " A Short Historical and
Topographical Account of St. (Giles's Church "—
the parish church of Camberwell — writes, " It has
been conjectured that, as the name of St. Giles
conveys an idea of cripples, the well which gave
part of the name to the village might have been
famous for some medicinal virtues, and might have
occasioned the dedication of the <hurch to this
patron saint of cripples and mendicants." " This

Camber well.]

ETYMOLOGY OF CAMBERWELL.

271

interpretation," adds Mr. Blanch, " is not by any
means an improbable one, and it assists us some-
what in the solution of the first part of the name.
Given the well, it does not call for a violent
exercise of our imaginative faculties to suppose it
to be ' cambered ' over for protection. Again,

Other solutions of the etymology of Camberwell
have been advanced. Here is one by the author
of " London : How it Grew : " — " All honour to
St. Giles, whose miraculous springs gave a name to
the spot ; unless, indeed, our friends in the parish
will accept a theory of our own — that, as Camber

BOWVER HOUSE.

' cam ' is a very crooked word, and is applied to
anything out of square, or out of condition.
Having regard, therefore, to the fact already
noticed, that the church is dedicated to the patron
saint of cripples, we are certainly justified in
assuming the word ' cam ' to be in this instance
descriptive of individual condition ; and the well [
would then become tlie well of the ' crooked ' or
crippled." I

was the name of a son of the Trojan Brute who is
said to have conquered this tight little island about
4,000 years ago, perhaps that prince discovered
the wells, as Prince Bladud did the waters of Bath,
and so unwittingly handed his name down to
posterity and the panels of omnibuses."

The name of the place is often pronounced as
" Camerwell," and is so written by Evelyn. Under
date of September i, 1657, the diarist writes, "I

272

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

fCamberwell.

visited Sir Edmund Bowyer at his melancholie
seate at Came)~K>ell."

Evelyn mentions in his " Diary," in 1685, an urn
foil of bones, which had been dug up at Camber-
well in repairing a highway, being exhibited at a
meeting of the Royal Society, for at that date the
Society of Antiquaries did not exist ; " it was found,"
he tells us, " entire mth its cover, amongst many
others believed to be truly Roman and ancient."
No doubt, in the present day a more exact account
would have been placed on record.

The most ancient part of the village is that which
surrounds what till lately was the Green ; but the
more pleasant and favourite spot is the Grove,
which stands high, and commands pleasant views
over Dulwich, as we shall presently see. Of the
old sites of Cambenvell very few now remain. In
the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries there were
many good houses in the parish. The Scotts,
who held the manor of Camberwell, had a noble
mansion and fine grounds at the foot of the Grove.
The Muschamps, who possessed the Peckham
estate, lived in the manor-house near the High
Street. The house was pulled down in the reign
of Charles IL by Sir Thomas Bond, who, in 1672,
built on the site a very fine mansion, surrounded
by a tastefully laid-out garden, famed for the
number of its foreign fruit-trees, which attracted the
notice of John Evelyn, who, it may be presumed,
frequently walked over, being a friend of the family,
from his residence at Saye's Court.

He speaks of it as " a new and fine house by
Peckham." " It stands," he adds, " on a flat ; but
has a fine garden and prospect through the
meadows to London." The house had a north
frontage, and was approached under a canopy of
stately elms, " at the end of which was a beautiful
prospect, terminated by a view of St. Paul's and the
Tower of London. The beauties of this prospect
were greatly increased by the masts of the ships
being seen over the trees as far as Greenwich."
The centre of the garden was, it is stated, like "a
wilderness " — a name by which the place was known
down till the early part of the present century.
Bond was a devoted adherent of the Stuarts, and,
at the abdication of James II., followed his master
to France. His house was plundered by the Whig
mob, and his beautiful gardens laid waste. In
1797 the house was pulled down. M.any houses
built on the site of Sir Thomas Bond's gardens are
now known as Hill Street.

The Bowyer family, who occupy a distinguished
place in the annals of Camberwell, settled there in
the time of Henry VIII. The family mansion,
the manor-house of Camberwell-Buckinghani, which

stood on the right-hand side of the road from
London to Camberwell Green, was built apparently
about the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Evelyn, as
stated above, in recording a visit paid to Sir Edmund
Bowyer, speaks of his mansion as a " melancholie
seate." " He has," says the author of " Sylva," '' a
very pretty grove of oakes, and hedges of yew in
his garden, and a handsome row of tall elms before
his court." These trees were specially noticeable

j from the high road. " No vestige of the elms or
oaks," says Mr. Blanch, " have been seen by the
' oldest inhabitant,' but a ring of yew-trees stood
round the front lawn very recently. It will be
noticed," he adds, " that Evelyn says nothing of the
fine cedar which, at the beginning of the present
century, formed a conspicuous feature to the left
of the grand entrance."

I There is a tradition that Sir Christopher Wren
resided here during the rebuilding of St. Paul's
Cathedral, and that some of the frescoes with
which the rooms were adorned were painted by
Sir James Thornhill. It is also asserted that
James II. was concealed here for some time
previous to his escape.

Early in the present century much of the beauty
of the interior of Bowyer House was destroyed,
the owner removing several choice carvings and
ornaments. A substantial wall and iron railings
were erected about tlie same time. Later on, the
old mansion became tenanted by the Camberwell
Literary and Scientific Institution ; and it was
subsequently converted into a school for young
ladies. The house was pulled down in 1861, on
its being purchased by the London, Chatham, and
Dover Railway Company. Bowyer Lane, now
Wyndham Road, long preserved the memory of
the old family. This thoroughfare forms a con-
necting link between the Old and New Camberwell
Roads, and is near the boundary line between the
parishes of Camberwell and Newington. Freeman's
Mill (see page 276), close by Bowyer Lane, was a
picturesque old wooden building, and was formerly
a conspicuous parochial boundar)'-niark. Early in
the present century Bowyer I^ne was the abode
of questionable characters of all sorts. Grcenacre
lived here in 1836 — the year of the murder now
associated with his name ; and it is stated that the
body of a man who was executed for horse-stealing
was for some time exhibited by his family, living
in Bowyer Lane, at a shilling a head.

The Royal Flora Gardens, in the \\'yndham
Road, formed for some time a favourite resort for
the ])leasure-se(.'kcrs of South London during the
summer months. Their most prosperous period

i was about the year 1849, when the gardens were

Camberwell.l

ST. GILES'S CHURCH.

273

well laid out and brilliantly illuminated ; but the
reputation of the place speedily declined, and it
met the fate of all such speculations.

The old church, dedicated to St. Giles, was an
antique and rude structure, the body large and
shapeless, with a square tower surmounted by a
turret. It is described by Priscilla Wakefield, in
the year 1809, as "an ancient structure, though its
appearance has been much modernised by coats
of plaster and rough-cast. The south aisle," she
adds, " was gready enlarged lately by an additional
brick building, and the whole has been repaired
and ornamented."

The first church of Cambervvell is one of the
very few of which we have authentic mention in
" Domesday Book," and is considered by some to
have dated its erection from within sixty years of
the first landing of St Augustine, or about the
middle of the seventh century. In the reign of
King Stephen, 1152, the original structure under-
went extensive changes, and two years aftenvards
became subject to the abbey of St. Saviour, Ber-
mondsey, by gift of William de Mellent. It has
been conjectured by some topographers that por-
tions of this church existed down to the time of
its destruction by fire in 1841. Lysons, however,
fixes the date of the old building towards the
beginning of the reign of Henry VII I., at which
period the entire edifice was either so completely
altered as to lose its original character, or rebuilt
on the site of the former church, which had been
granted to the monks of Bermondsey. In con-
firmation of this view Mr. Blanch states that, in
preparing the foundation of the new church, the
foundations of two former structures were dis-
tinctly visible.

The old church was a large edifice, with a " lady
chapel," and contained many interesting monu-
ments, brasses, and painted windows. It would
be difficult to estimate the amount spent at dif-
ferent times in altering, enlarging, beautifying, and
repairing St. Giles's Church, from the time when
the first entry occurs in the vestry minutes in 1675 ;
for from that date down to the time of its destruc-
tion by fire in 1841, the condition of the church
appears to have been the principal theme discussed
by the parishioners " in vestry assembled." Under
date of September 14, 1675, the following entry
appears on the vestry records : — " Upon examination
of the charges for the repairing the parish church,
it was consented to and ordered, that the sum of
Fifty pounds be raysed forthwith by way of tax for
that purpose, and the payment of some arreares
due for former reparations which was allowed, and
to be included in this tax of ;i^5o, and to be paid

accordingly, and to be brought on account in the
churchwardens' accounts, as also that the present
churchwardens shall give an account how the sum
of ^50 hath been expended." This sum, it ap-
pears, was found insufficient for the repairs, and so
in 1679 an order was made for an additional ^40,
" for mending the seats, bells, and windows, and
for buying prayer-books and a surplice ; " and soon
after another sum of ^^40 was voted for a new
church clock "and other expenses." There is
mention also in 1675 of an agreement entered into
between Antony Bowyer, Esq., and Richard Kettle-
thorpe, whereby the latter undertook to keep St.
Giles's clock "going and in good order" for the
sum of twenty shiUings yearly ; but Richard Kettle-
thorpe apparently found it a more difficult under-
taking than he imagined, for, as stated above, a
new clock was ordered about four years later.

In 1688 a gallery was built ; in 1708 the church
was " new pewed, paved, and glazed ; three new
galleries were erected, and a vault was sunk." In
1786 further additions were made; and in 1799
the building was "beautified," after the usual
fashion so dear to vestries and churchwardens ; and
as parish officers in those days were wholly ignorant
of ecclesiastical art, the effect was not brilliant.
In 1825 the church was gready enlarged.

Notwithstanding these various repairs and
alterations, the old church retained much of its
antiquarian character to the last. The massive
clustered columns and pointed arches separating the
nave from the side aisles, the venerable sedilia in
the south wall of the chancel — which, by the way,
had been for many years concealed behind some
wainscoting put up in 1 7 1 5 by the Bowyers — and
the fragments of ancient stained glass in its
windows, were all vestiges of the olden time.

A fire broke out on the night of Sunday, the 7th
of February, 1841, by which the building was
completely destroyed. Funds were at once raised
for its re-erection. The first stone of the new
church was laid in September, 1842, and in
November, 1844, the new building was consecrated
by the Bishop of Winchester. It was erected from
the designs of Messrs. George Gilbert Scott and W.
B. Moffatt, at an expense, including furniture, &c.,
of about ;^24,ooo. It is one of the finest and
largest of the new parish churches in the kingdom.
The style of architecture is the transition between
the Early English and the Decorated, which pre-
vailed at the close of the thirteenth century. The
building is of a cruciform plan, with a central
tower and spire, the latter rising to the height of
about 210 feet. The walls of the church, which
are of considerable thickness, are constructed

274

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

CCamberweU.

chiefly of Kentish rag, with dressings of Caen
stone. Several of the windows are enriched with
stained glass.

In the old church there was a handsome effigy
in brass of Edward Scott, who died in 1537. It
is engraved in Hone's " Year-Book," page 913.
There was also a monument to Agnes Skinner, or
Skuner, who died in 1515, at the age of 1 19, having
survived her husband, it is said, no less than ninety-
tivo years !

The churchwardens' accounts contain several
very curious entries. Thus, in 1809, Mr. Church-
warden Baker paid " John Wilkins, for a vagabond,
3s. lod. ;" " for carrying a vagabond to church, 3s. ;"
"paid for a coffin and shroud for him, 6s. 6d."
The bishop, it seems, was usually regaled with
" biscuits and wine " when he came to preach at
Camberwell ; but in the above-mentioned year,
Mr. Churchwarden Davis makes the following
entry : " Paid for meat and drink for the bishop,
2S. 6d."

Among the notabilities buried here is Mrs.
Wesley, the somewhat shrewish wife of the Rev.
John Wesley, who died in 178 1. A stone in the
churchyard asserts her to have been " a woman of
exemplary virtue, a tender parent, and a sincere
friend." The monument says nothing of her
excellence as a wife ; for it is on record that, after
making her husband thoroughly miserable, and
having been a " thorn in his flesh" for twenty years,
she left his house, carrying off" many of his papers
and journals, which she never returned. John
Wesley never saw her, nor sought to see her, again.
" By her outrageous jealousy and abominable
temper," writes Southey, in his " Life of Wesley,"
"she deserves to be classed in a triad with Xanthippe
and the wife of Job, as one of the three bad wives."
Her death must have been a happy release for
the great John. It appears that more tlian one
separation took place between tliem. On different
occasions she laid hands upon his person and tore
his hair. When in the north of Ireland, a friend
of Wesley caught her in the act of trailing him on
the floor by the hair of his head. " I felt," con-
tinues Hampson, in his account of the incident,
" that I could have knocked the very soul out of
her."

In the churchyard, too, lies Miss Lucy Warner,
better known as the " Little Woman of I'eckham."
Her height was exactly thirty-two inches, her growth
having been stunted at the early age of three. She
kept a school. In the newer part of tlie church-
yard a handsome tomb covers the remains of the
notorious democrat, well known as " luiuality
Brown," of Peckiiain ; and a gravestone also com-

memorates James Blake, who sailed round the
world with Captain Cook.

Camden Chapel, situated on the northern side
of Peckham Road, was built in 1797, and duly
licensed as an Episcopal Chapel in 1829. Under
the ministry of the late Rev. Henry Melvill, who
occupied the pulpit for many years, it became
one of the most famous places of worship in
the metropolis for pulpit oratory of a high order.
So great was Mr. Melvill's popularity, that very
soon after his appointment, it was found necessary
to make a considerable enlargement in the building,
and transepts were made at the north end, thus
giving to the edifice the ground-plan of the letter T.
A writer in a critique on Camden Chapel and its
pastor, in the "Metropolitan Pulpit" (1839),
remarks : " The Rev. Henry Melvill, of Camden
Chapel, is the most popular preacher in London.
I am doing no injustice to other ministers, whether
in the Church or out of it, in saying this. The
fact is not only susceptible of proof, but is often
proved in a manner which all must admit to be
conclusive. When a sermon is advertised to be
preached by Mr. Melvill, the number of strangers
attracted to the particular place is invariably greater
than is ever drawn together in the same church or
chapel when any of the other popular ministers in
London are appointed to preach on a precisely
similar occasion." Mr. Melvill, who was subse-
quently rector of Barnes, died in 1871, and was
buried in St. Paul's Cathedral, of which he had
been for some years a canon residentiary.

A new district church, dedicated to St. George,
on the south bank of the Surrey Canal, after the
model of one of the churches in Rome, was built
about 1830. There are few churches in or near
London which have witnessed more extraordinary
changes in their immediate neighbourhood than
this. Originally built among green fields, with a
windmill close at hand, it now stands in the
midst of a teeming population. The edifice, which
is in the Crecian style of architecture, was built
from the designs of Mr. Bedford. A new bridge
over the Surrey Canal, close by the church, was
erected in the year 1862.

Previous to 1827, the parochial business was
carried on cither at the workliouse or the vestry-
room of St. Giles's Church. In that year was erected
a vestry-hall, which was in use for a little over forty
years. The building, however, seems to have been
ill adapted for tlie transaction of jiarochi.al business,
and in 1873 it was superseded by a new hall, a
large and imposing edifice on the north side of old
Church Street, at the corner of Havil Street, and
occupying the site of old Havil House. 'I'he style

Camberwell.]

CAMBERWELL FAIR.

«75

of architecture is that known as Renaissance, and
the general arrangement of the design is a centre
with two wings. The principal front is constructed
entirely of Bath stone, and the side front of white
Suffolk bricks, with cornices, string-courses, &c.
The principal front is divided into two storeys, the
lowermost of which has considerable dignity im-
parted to it by reason of its being raised some
four feet above the level of the roadway. On the
ground storey, the centre has rusticated piers, with
Doric granite columns and a recessed portico,
leading up to which is a flight of stone steps, with
ornamental pillar-lamps on each side. The upper
storey consists of coupled Ionic pilasters, with a
central composition comprising a circular-headed
window, flanked by two narrow recessed openings,
and an elliptical projecting balcony ; the whole
is surmounted by an attic having a pedimented
clock-sto'rey, on either side of which are groups
of statuary representing " Law " and " Prudence,"
while a figure of "Justice" crowns the summit of
the pediment. On the pedestals of the balustrades,
over each group of coupled pilasters, are also em-
blematical figures of "Science" and "Industry."
The roof of this central portion of the building is
of ornamental design, with a balustrade. Each of
the \vings of the main front is divided into three
openings on both sides.

At the western end of Church Street and the
southern end of Camberwell Road is an oblong
plot of ground, rather over an acre in extent — laid
out in grass-jjlats, planted with trees, shrubs, and
flowers, and enclosed with iron railings — rejoicing
in the name of Camberwell Park. This spot, for-
merly known as Camberwell Green, was in bygone
times the scene of an annual fair, almost rivalling
in riotousness that at Greenwich, which we have
already described.*

How, or at what time, Camberwell Fair became
established is a matter of uncertainty. Bray, in
his " History of Surrey," says that it was appointed
to be held on the 9th of August, and to terminate
on the ist of September — the feast of St. Giles, the
patron saint ; thus it must have lasted for twenty-
three days. In recent times, however, it was held
on the 1 8th, 19th, and 20th of August. The fair
appears to have been held in the High Street,
" opposite ' The Cock ' public-house," before the
Green was fixed upon as its head-quarters.

The following account of these saturnalia is taken
from the "Annual Register," 1807 : — "The sports
of Camberwell Fair began, and were continued till
Thursday, the 20th, with more animation than

• See ante, p. aot.

usual. An unlucky accident happened on Wed-
nesday to a black magician, who professed to be
acquainted with the secrets of nature, to be de-
scended from the magi of Persia, and to profess
the highest veneration for the Guebres or worship-
pers of fire. In addition to his legerdemain, he
exhibited a puppet-show, in the last scene of which
a battle was introduced between Lucifer and
Buonaparte. As the infernal king was conveying
the efligy of the Corsican to the region of fire, an
unlucky boy blew up a sausage-pan in the rear of
the magician's booth, and Buonaparte's catastrophe
was attended by real fire, for the flames, in conse-
quence of the explosion, caught the hangings of
the booth, and the disciple of Zoroaster found
himself inclosed by the element he so much
admired. In vain he summoned water to his aid ;
none could be obtained, and he was compelled to
bury the devil, &c., in the ruins. Fortunately, the
flames did not communicate to the adjoining shows,
but the magician was necessitated to begin his
incantations Jc novo."

The Observer o{ A.\ig\.\%\. 19th, 1832, thus describes
the fair : — " Camberwell Fair. — The revels of this
fair commenced yesterday with much spirit, not-
withstanding the weather was so unfavourable.
Richardson's theatre occupies a large space of
ground in the centre of the Green, and is fitted up
with a degree of splendour we could not have
anticipated. Alger's ' Crown and Anchor' tavern,
as usual, eclipses all others of its contemporaries ;
it ranges from one end of the Green to the other,
and its interior is ornamented with chandeliers,
variegated lamps, flags, banners, &c., which pre-
sent a very splendid effect. There are numerous
other sources of amusement to satiate the appe-
tites of the public, and the Bonifiices anticipate
a plentiful harvest should the weather but prove
congenial."

The following curious particulars of Camberwell
Fair are taken from Colburn's " Kalendar of Amuse-
ments " (1840) : — " Camberwell Fair is one of the
most amusing and orderly occurring near the
metropolis. It continues in vogue three days,
during which, precisely till the departure of day-
light, it is attended by nursery-maids and their
incipient masters and mistresses ; and regularly till
the return of the same, by all sorts and sizes of
animated nature. The green is filled with booths,
displaying articles of virtu and task (corn-craiks
and gingerbread) ; with theatres which preserve
the legitimate drama with a commendable fidelity,
admitting no other change of performances than
from Douglas to Hamlet, and from Hamkt to
Douglas; and with shows of wonderful objects,

276

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Camberwell.

which Nature continues to produce in order, most
probably, to keep ahve that spirit of curiosity in
man which works so beneficially for that portion
of society called the Hamaxobii, or cart-dwellers.
These latter are said to be capable of only one
occupation, viz., expatiating ; and a profane proverb
says that ' they are of no other use either to God
or to man.' A story is told of one of thenlj^ho,
observing a man fall into a river, continued to

tude beneath them, whom they incite by every
possible inducement to pay their pence and judge
for themselves. One of them, elevated so as to
become the ' observed of all observers,' is revealing
that, ' There is here, and only here, to be seen what
you can see nowhere else, the lately-caught, and
highly-accomplished young mermaid, about whom
the Continental journals have written so ably. She
combs her hair in the manner practised in China,

C.11.IJ CAMiii'.KU KLL Mil.L. {Copied, by permission, J loiii Mr. Blanch's JHstory of Cambciioetl.)

watch his struggles with a placid and unmoved
countenance, exclaiming repeatedly in a low voice,
' If there was anybody could fling him this here
rope, he might be saved ! ' It is, moreover, a
common saying that they never undress, from
their perfect ignorance of the manner in which
their garments should be resumed. The reply of
Dr. Johnson to the political turncoat, who, in
endeavouring to extenuate his knavery, exclaimed,
' You know I must live, doctor.' ' I see no neces-
sity for that, sir ! ' might very judiciously be applied
to them.

"At Camberwcll fair a multitude of these creatures
may be inspected ; they are generally stationed in
very prominent positions, making strange state-
ments and assurances to the open-mouilied multi-

and admires herself in a glass in the manner prac-
tised— everywhere. She has had the best instruc-
tors in every peculiarity of education, and can argue
on any given subject, from the most popular way
of preserving plums, down to the necessity of a
change of Ministers. She plays the harp in the iieiv
effect-\xvi\ style prescribed by Mr. Bochsa, of whom
we wished her to take lessons, but, having some
mermaiden scruples, she begged to be provided
\vith a less popular master. Heing so clever and
accomplished, she can't bear to be contradicted,
and lately leaped out of her tub and floored a dis-
tinguished (cllow of the Royal Zoological Society,
who was pleased to be more curious and cunning
than she was pleased to think agreeable. She has
composed various poems for the periodicals, and

Camberwell.]

CAMBERWELL FAIR.

airs with variations for the harp and piano, all very
popular and pleasing. That gendeman (pointing
to an organ-grinder, who appears to be watching
for his cue) will favour you with one of his latest
pteiangfs.' The organist strikes up 'God save the
Queen,' which appears to make the people

277

Regina ! ' Before the curtain of one of the great
national preservers of the two legitimate stock plays
we have mentioned, chieftains in plaid, lawyers in
symbolical black, kings in rabbit ermine, ladies in
glazed satin, and gentlemen in disguise —

' Like Banquo's ghost, nine farrow of one sow,'

OLD HOUSE OX CAMBERWELL GREEN'.

thoughtful, as if they had heard something similar
to it before. The showman, observing this effect,
orders the note to be changed. 'Jim Crow,' ac-
companied by a roar of laughter, is the result, at
the subsiding of which, the sonorous voice of the
showman is heard bellowing, 'Walk up, walk up,
ladies and gentlemen ; the entertainment is now
a-going for to go to commence, and the charge
has been medicated, according to the prudence of
the times, to the sum of only one penny. Vivat
264

strut, shuffle, stamp, sweep, paddle, and lavolt
across the stage to the time and tune of one
solitary fiddler, the strings of whose fidicula might
easily be mistaken for the fidicula, or little cords,
formerly used to stretch people on the rack.
This person is provokingly broken in upon by
'Johnny Black,' of a rival house, who is pro-
pounding to a motley mob, whom he obligingly
mistakes for ladies and gentlemen, a series of
extemporaneous conundrums."

278

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Camberwell.

"Much pain," we read in the Tourist for 1832,
has been taken of late to do away with the annual
fair held on the Green, which some of the in-
habitants deem a nuisance ; but, being at once a
manorial right, and a source of emolument, it
still remains." A petty session was held at Union
Hall, in Southwark, in 1823, in order to put down
Camberwell fair ; but it was held to no purpose.
The complaints of the inhabitants against the con-
tinuance of the fair were both loud and numerous ;
but it nevertheless survived, and was allowed to
bring annual annoyance to the district till August,
1855, in which month the Green was encumbered
for the last time with these disreputable gatherings.
In that year the manorial rights in the Green were
purchased by a subscription raised among the
principal inhabitants of the district, and the place
was transformed into a park, as above stated.

At the end of Camberwell Road, close by the
park, is an inn called the " Father Redcap ; " this
hostelry, however, has no connection with the
" Mother Redcap " of Camden Town,* or other
places, and its sign was probably only a flight of
some publican's fancy.

There formerly stood on the south side of the
Green a curious old mansion, which in its time had,
doubdess, been the subject of many an idle tale.
It was for many years known as the "old house on
the Green." "The house itself," as Mr. Blanch
tells us in his work before referred to, " was a fine
specimen of a country mansion, and stood alone in
its grandeur, as though it had found its way to
Camberwell by mistake, so different was it from the
surrounding buildings. Its magnificent hall was
adorned with frescoes on walls and ceilings by the
famous artist, Sir James Thornhill, and the noble
oak staircase was of great width, and beautifully
carved. The dining and drawing rooms were
of unusual proportions, and elaborately worked
medallion and otlier decorations were profusely
arrayed. Tradition fixes this spot as the residence
of Sir Christoijher Wren, apparently without any
authority, although local nomenclature has come to
the rescue of tradition by naming the road which
now occupies the site of this ancient structure as
Wren Road."

The north side of the park is occupied chiefly
by the Green-coat and National Schools. The
builrling, which was erected in 187 i, stands on the
site of a former school, founded in 1721, by Mr.
Henry Corneliscn, " for the Christian instruction
of poor children."

The Camberwell Free Grammar School, which

Sec Vul. v., p. 310.

dated its foundation from the reign of James I.,
was instituted by the Rev. Edward Wilson, a
former Vicar of Camberwell, and the rules and
regulations drawn up by him are more than usually
quaint and interesting. The master, we are told, was
to be " chosen out of the founder's kindred before
any others ; " he was to be " sound in religion,
body, and mind ; gentle, sober, honest, virtuous,
discreet, and approved for a good facility in teach-
ing— if such a one may be gotten ! " The master
was enjoined " to be careful of the behaviour of the
scholars in coming in, going out, and sitting ; and
specially in reputation for good grace, countenance,
pronunciation, and carriage, &c. ; reverence abroad
of scholars to their betters, elders, &c. ; behaviour,
courteous speech, and fair condition required, and
reformation of such as do amiss." For all these
varied duties and accomplishments the master was
to receive " for his stipend, ten pounds yearly,"
and tlie best scholar was to " welcome him with a
Latin oration." Whatever the school may have
been in its early days, it does not appear to have
been in a very flourishing condition at the com-
mencement of the present century. In 1824 the
governors sold and conveyed to the Charity Com-
missioners a portion of the charity-land as an
addition to the churchyard of the parish ; and in
1842 an information was filed in the Court of
Chancery against the governors and the then
master of the school, with respect to its past and
future management. In consequence of these pro-
ceedings, in 1845 the school Imildings were razed
to the ground, and for nearly eighteen years the
land on which they stood was let out for grazing.
The school lias since been revived under another
name. The Mary Datchelor Charity Schools,
for the education of girls of the middle classes,
are at the foot of Camberwell Grove. These
schools were erected in 1880 at the cost of
_;^i 2,000. The buildings are of red brick witii
facings of Poitland stone.

In Westmoreland Place, contiguous to the main
road, is the Aged Pilgrims' Friend Asylum. Of
the many valuable institutions with which London
abounds, few deserve a higher place in the
estimation of the philanthropist than the Aged
Pilgrims' Friend Society, of which we have
already had occasion to speak in our account of
Upper Holloway.t It was established in the year
1807, for the purpose of giving life-pensions of ten
guineas and five guineas per annum to poor, aged,
and infirm Protestants of either sex. The alms-
houses here were commenced in 1834. The

t See Vol v., p. 39s

Camberwell.]

GROVE HILL

279

edifice is of brick, with stucco mouldings and
ornaments, having an embattled centre, flanked by
two towers. A low pointed gateway leads through
this part of the structure to a quadrangle with a
lawn in the centre, and surrounded by buildings in
the same style.

The rural character of Camberwell at the latter
part of the eighteenth century may be gathered from
the fact that the trees and hedges of the village arc
referred to in the vestry minutes; and in 1782
caterpillars so abounded in the parish, that the
overseers spent ^'10 in "apprehending them," at
the rate of sixpence per bushel. The caterpillars
were described as being dangerous to the public in
general. " The Camberwell Beauty," the dehght
of entomologists, is still one of the finest butterflies
of the summer ; but it is now rarely seen. It was
most abundant when Camberwell was a straggling
suburban parish of about 4,000 inhabitants. But
Camberwell is now a congeries of streets, and
forms part of the great metropolis itself

Close by the Camberwell Station of the London,
Chatham, and Dover Railway, stood Myatt's Farm,
a picturesque building in the midst of gardens,
celebrated for their strawberries as lately as the
present reign. Camberwell, in fact, was, down to
a comparatively recent date, famous for its flowers
and fruit. In Cold Harbour Lane, which leads
from the southern end of the High Street towards
Brixton, are still located one or two well-known
florists. In this lane was Strawberry Hall, now
pulled down to form a site for Loughborough Park
Chapel ; beyond this was the " river " Effra, which,
having been diverted from its original channel, or
otherwise effaced, is now kept in remembrance by
a modern thoroughfare called Efira Road. Cold
Harbour — a name by no means rare in the rural
districts — is supposed to have originally signified a
place of entertainment for travellers and drovers,
but the derivation is uncertain.

At the foot of Denmark Hill, or rather at the
fork made by the junction of that road with Cold
Harbour Lane, stood Denmark Hill Grammar
School, " a handsome and imposing structure,"
with its extensive grounds skirting the parish
boundary, and which " was reckoned among the
maisons grandes of Camberwell." The grounds
were enclosed by a high brick wall; and the house
itself, which faced Denmark Hill, stood only a few
yards from the road. It was a lofty structure,
built of red and white bricks, with dressings of
Portland stone, and the interior contained some
curious and quaint carvings and frescoes.

At the beginning of the present century there
lived at Grove Hill Dr. John Lettsom, one of the

most extraordinary men of his day. As a Quaker
physician he was most successful, realising some-
times as much as ;i{^i 2,000 a year. He was as
liberal and philanthropic as he was wealthy. At
Grove Hill he entertained some of the most eminent
literati of his time. He used to sign his pre-
scriptions " I. Lettsom." This signature occasioned
the following epigram —

" When any patients call in haste,

I physics, bleeds, and sweats 'em ;
If after that they choose to die,
Why, what cares I ?

I let's 'em."

Dr. John Coakley Lettsom was the son of a West
Indian planter, and was born in the year 1744.
Having completed his education in England, he
was apprenticed to a Yorkshire apothecary. He
afterwards returned to the West Indies, and settled
as a medical practitioner at Tortola. After about
five or six months, he again found his way into
Europe. In 1769, he was admitted a licentiate
of the Royal College of Physicians of London,
and in the following year elected a Fellow of the
Society of Antiquaries. Dr. Lettsom's rise in his
profession was rapid ; but whilst realising a hand-
some fortune, he was not forgetful of the wants
of his needy brethren, and the poorer order of
clergy and struggling literary men received from
him not only gratuitous advice, but substantial aid ;
whilst his contributions to charitable institutions
placed him in the front rank of earnest and prac-
tical philanthropists. Dr. Lettsom deserves also
to be remembered as the original proprietor of
the sea-bathing Infirmary at Margate, which dates
from 1792 or thereabouts. Numerous anecdotes
have been published about the celebrated phy-
sician, but the following will sufliciently illustrate
his proverbial generosity, which we tell on the
authority of Mr. Blanch :— " As he was travelling
on one occasion in the neighbourhood of London,
a highwayman stopped his carriage ; but from the
awkward and constrained manner of the intruder,
the doctor correctly imagined the young man was
somewhat of a novice in his new vocation, and
that he was an outlaw more from necessity than
from choice ; and so it turned out. The doctor
interested himself in his behalf, and eventually
obtained him a commission in the army. On one
of his benevolent excursions, the doctor found his
way into the squalid garret of a poor woman who
had seen better days. With the language and
deportment of a lady, she begged the physician to
give her a prescription. After inquiring carefully
into her case, he wrote on a slip of paper to the
overseers of the parish: 'A shilling per diem for

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Camberwell.

Mrs. Moreton. Money, not physic, will cure her.' "
Unhappily, though Dr. Lettsom had been success-
ful in his profession, his latter years were darkened
with adversity.

Dr. Lettsom's house is called by Priscilla Wake-
field, in 1809, "an elegant villa." She is at the
pains of describing it as follows : — " The front is
adorned with emblematical figures of Flora and the
Seasons. One of the chief ornaments of the house
is a noble library, in which are tastefully disposed
the busts of many distinguished literary characters.
The gardens and pleasure-grounds are laid out in
a pleasing manner, and display a variety of statues
and models of ancient temples. That of the
Sibyls is on the model of one at Tivoli, and is
supported on the trunks of eighteen oak-trees,
around which are entwined ivy, virgin's bower,
honeysuckle, and other climbing shrubs."

The author of " The British Traveller," in de-
scribing the parish in 18 19, makes no mention of
anybody or anything in Camberwell further than
this, that it contained the residence of the " late
famous Dr. Lettsom." The house is described in
Manning and Bray's "History of Surrey" as "stand-
ing on a considerable eminence, rising gradually
for about three-quarters of a mile from the village
of Camberwell, and passing through an avenue of
elms retaining the name of Camberwell Grove,
part of the plantations which belonged to the house
that was Sir Thomas Bond's, and afterwards Lord
Trevor's." This, however, is more than doubtful,
as Sir Thomas Bond's house was situated in Peck-
ham, at least one mile distant.

Scott, the "bard of Amwell," inscribed one of
his lesser poems to his hospitable friend, Dr. Lett-
som ; and Boswell, who was a frequent visitor at
Grove Hill, in an ode to Charles Dilly, celebrated
at once the beauties of the physician's country seat
and its owner's humane disposition : —

"My cordial friend, still prompt to lend
Your cash when I have need on't ;
We both must bear our load of care —
At least we talk and read on't —

" Yet are we gay in every way,

Not minding where the joke lie ;
On Saturday at bowls we play,
At Camberwell, with Coakley.

"Mcthinks you laugh to hear but half
The name of Dr. Lettsom ;
From him of good — talk, licjuors, food —
His guests will always get some.

" And guests has he, in every degree
Of decent estimation ;
His hbcral mind holds all mankind
As an exalted nation.

"O'er Lettsom's cheer we've met a peer —
A peer, no less than Lansdowne !
Of whom each dull and envious skull
Absurdly cries — ' The man's down ! '

"Lettsom we view a Quaker true:
'Tis clear he's so in one sense ;
His spirit strong and ever young
Refutes pest Priestley's nonsense.

"In fossils he is deep, we see,

Nor knows beasts, fishes, birds ill !
With plants not few, some from Pellew,
And wondrous mangel-wurzel !

"West Indian bred, warm heart, cold head,
The City's first physician ;
By schemes humane, want, sickness, pain.
To aid is his ambition.

" From terrace high, he feasts his eye.
When practice grants a furlough.
And while it roves o'er Dulwich groves.
Looks down — even upon Thurlow. "

Dr. Lettsom's house was subsequently occupied
by Mr. Charles Baldwin, the proprietor of the Si.
James's Chronicle, and afterwards of the Standard
newspaper.

Camberwell Grove is said to be the spot on
which George Barnwell murdered his uncle : an
event which furnished Lillo with the plot of his
tragedy. Fountain Cottage — which was till very
recently commemorated by Fountain Terrace, a
name which the late Metropolitan Board of
Works thought fit to abolish — was fixed on as the
residence of the unfortunate uncle. A writer, at
the commencement of the present century, informs
his readers that " in the Grove (dt Camberwell)
was committed that tragic act, recorded by Lillo,
in the drama of George BarmaelL" And, again, in
the European Magazine for June, 1S03, it is re-
corded that " at the fatal spot where this murder
j was committed rises a stream of limpid water,
, which falls into the canal (at Fountain Cottage)
through a vase on which a naiad, in ornamental
stone, reclines. It is this spring," the writer
further tells us, with an amount of simplicity and
ignorance whicii is charming, " which gives the
name, of Camberwell to the village so called !" In
the " Memoirs of George Barnwell, by a descendant
of the family," published in 1810, the author, in
purporting to give " a full, true, and particular
account " of the whole affair, fi.xes upon Camber-
well Grove as the residence of the uncle and the
scene of the murder. Maurice, the liistorian of
Hindostan, in his poem entitled "Grove Hill," thus
apostrophises this touching and romantic story : —

"Ve towering elms, on whose majestic brows
'\ liundred rolling years have shed their snows,
Ailinit me lo your dark, sef|uester'd reign,
To roam with contemplation's studious train !

Camberwell.]

THE STORY OF GEORGE BARNWELL.

Your haunts I seek, nor glow with other fires

Than those which friendship's ardent warmth inspires ;

No savage murderer with a gleaming blade — •

No Barnwell to pollute your sacred shade !"

In the prologue to Lillo's tragedy, " as acted at
the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane, by his Majesty's
servants, in 1731," it is openly stated that the
tragedy is based upon the original ballad of
" George Barnwell : " —

" Forgive us, then, if we attempt to show,
In artless strains, a tale of private woe.
A London 'prentice ruined is my theme,
Drawn from the famed old song that bears his name. "

According to Bishop Percy, the original ballad was
printed at least as early as the seventeenth century.
In that production Barnwell's uncle is described as
a wealthy grazier, dwelling iu Ludlow : —

" I an uncle have.

Who doth in Ludlow dwell ;
He is a grazier, which in wealth
Doth all the rest excel."

The ballad also describes the murder as having
been committed in a wood near that town ; and the
Ludlow Guide-book notices the circumstance as
traditional there, and the very barn and homestead,
a short distance on the left before entering Ludlow
from the Hereford Road, are still pointed out as
having been the residence of the victim. The
ballad, however, lays the scene of Barnwell's dis-
sipation in the metropolis. In Shoreditch lived
Mrs. Millwood, who led him astray : —

"George Barnwell, then, quoth she.
Do thou to Shoreditch come,
And ask for Mrs. Millwood's house.
Next door unto the ' Gun.' " |

Readers of James Smith's " Rejected Addresses "
will not forget how the wretched woman Millwood
suggests to the profligate apprentice the murder of
his wealthy but hard-hearted relative. The poet
tells us : —

" A pistol he got from his love,

'Twas loaded with powder and bullet ;
He trudged off to Camberwell Grove,

But wanted the courage to pull it.
' There's Nunkey as fat as a hog.
While I am as lean as a lizard ;
Here's at you, you stingy old dog !'

And he whips a big knife in his gizzard.

" All you who attend to my song,

A terrible end of the farce shall see,
If you join the inquisitive throng

That followed poor George to the Marshalsea.
' If Millwood were here, dash my wigs,'

Quoth he, ' I would pummel and lam her well ;
Had I stuck to my prunes and my figs,

I ne'er had stuck Nunkey at Cam'erwell. ' "

" Lillo's drama," writes the author of the History

of Camberwell, " shows us the culprit, in com-
panionship with his heartless seducer, led from
a London prison to the scaffold ; and Dr. Rim-
bault, writing in 1858, tells us that sorne few years
since an old parochial parchment was said to have
come to light, showing that George Barnwell had
been the last criminal hanged at St. Martin's-in-
the-Fields, before the Middlesex executions were,
more generally than before, ordered at Tyburn;
yet the ballad, of much older date than the play,
says that Barnwell was not gibbeted there, but sent
' beyond seas,' where he subsequently suffered
capital punishment for some fresh crime. In any
case," he adds, somewhat sceptically, " we must
disclaim, on behalf of Camberwell, the honour of
the Barnwell connection. If such a person ever
did commit such a crime as that stated, no reliable
evidence whatever has been produced to connect
Camberwell with it."

A writer in Hone's "Every-day Book" remarks :
— " When Mr. Ross performed the character of
George Barnwell, in 1752, the son of an eminent
merchant was so struck with certain resemblances
to his own perilous position (arising from the arts
of a real Millwood), that his agitation brought on
a dangerous illness, in the course of which he
confessed his error, was forgiven by his father, and
was furnished with the means of repairing the
pecuniary wrongs he had privately done to his
employer. Mr. Ross says : ' Though I never
knew his name, nor saw him to my knowledge, I
had, for nine or ten years, at my benefit, a note
sealed up with ten guineas, with these words : —
" A tribute of gratitude from one who was highly
obliged, and saved from ruin, by witnessing Mr.
Ross's performance of George Barnwell."'" Few
persons, on reading this fact, will censure the
stage as being necessarily immoral in its tend-
ency.

In the last century, the Camberwell Tea Gardens,
attached to a place of public entertainment called
the Grove House, were largely patronised by the
lads and lasses of the metropolis. The assembly-
room — which is now known as Camberwell Hall —
has been the scene of many local balls, which can
scarcely, however, be styled fashionable. Charles
Dickens, in his " Sketches by Boz," gives an
amusing account of a ball held here by certain
"aspiring" local residents. Fetes of all kinds
were held within the spacious grounds of Grove
House. With the Grove House Tavern is asso-
ciated the history of the Camberwell Club, which,
like all similar associations of the past century,
was exclusively social. The club — which numbered
among its members clergymen, lawyers, and mer-

282

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

I.CambenvelL

chants — held its meetings at this famous house of
entertainment ; and, as Mr. Blanch informs us,
" snug dinners, stray balls, and quarterly feasts
were the principal duties which the members were
called upon to perform; and right well did they
acquit themselves, if report be true." Political
meetings were sometimes held here ; and the
march of " Citizen " Tierney's supporters thither
in 1802 forms the subject of a spirited engraving

Roberts, the architect of the Fishmongers' Hall ; it
was somewhat in the Tudor style, constructed of
white brick, with stone dressings, the principal
feature being the cloister which faced the entrance.
The school was opened in 1835, as a proprietary
establishment, and for some time was moderately
successful ; but the proximity of Dulwich College
and other educational establishments seriously
impeded the progress of the college, and in 1867

llUUbK, GKOVE HILL. (See /•axe jSo )

published at the time, beneath which is in-
scribe<l —
"The glorious triumph shouting mobs proclaim,
And the Ihrongeil Grove House echoes bacl< my fame."

Mr. Tierney, the great friend of Charles James
Fox, was elected M.P. for .South wark in 1802,
and sat for that place in two or three Parliaments.
In a broad-sheet published by Gilray, in 1 797, he
is represented as the "Friend of Humanity" — the
same who was satirised by Canning, a short time
previously, in the " Anti-Jacobin."

On the lower .Spring-field, on the west side of
the Grove, formerly stood the Camberwell Col-
legiate School, an establishment formed on the
prinri|)les of King's College. The building was
erected in 183,}, from the designs of Mr. llcniy

it was closed, and the land sold for building
purposes.

The dwellers in Camberwell, and especially in
that region where it passes into the Grove, ouglit
to feel grateful to Mr. Wiili.un Black for the dignity
and intcreit whicii he h.as conferred upon it in his
romance of " Madcap Violet. ' VVliat Leigh Hunt,
Thackeray, and other writers have done for the
"Old Court Suburb" of Kensington, Mr. Black has
done for tiiis charming part of suburban London.
The broad, tree-bordered slope of the Grove, where
fine houses to the right and left are embowered
among leaves, has been chosen by the autiior of
" ^Ladcap Violet " as the scene of some of the
incidents narrated in that romance of modern life.

Camberwell Grove, the sylvan glades of Dulwich

GROVE LANE, CAMBERWELL.

284

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Camberwell.

and Norwood, and hilly Sydenham, were favourite
resorts of the great painter, William Blake, in his
early years.

In Champion Hill, which e.xtends from Camber-
well to Lordship Lane, the nightingale is sometimes
heard; and Hone, in his "Year-Book," mentions
that this bird was in full song here in 1832.

Hone's "Year-Book" also mentions the " Fox-
under-the-Hill," at the foot of Denmark Hill— then
the Sunday resort of many town-immured beings —
as being gradually surrounded by spruce villas, &a
He styles Heme Hill " the elysium of many of
our merchants and traders. On the left," he adds,
" is a quiet lane, such as Byron would have loved,
leading to Dulwich."

The " Fox-under-the-Hill " still remains a well-
known Camberwell sign, although the old tavern
has been demolished to give place to one more in
accord with modern ideas. That the neighbour-
hood was at one time the haunt of " Reynard "
may be inferred from the fact that a thoroughfare
close by is called Dog Kennel Lane. The tavern
was formerly called " Little Denmark Hall," there
being at that time another house of entertainment
known as " Great Denmark Hall," which was sub-
sequently converted into one or more private
houses. The " Fo.x-underthe-Hill " was formerly
the starting-point of the Dulwich patrol.

Of the " old families " of Camberwell not yet
mentioned by us, we have the Cherrys, descended
from the De Cheries of Picardy and Normandy —
the first of the family who settled in Camberwell
being Sir Francis Cherry, Queen Elizabeth's Am-
bassador to Russia in 1598, of whose proceedings an
amusing account is given in the " Egerton Papers "
as published by the Camden Society. We have
again the De Crespignys, who came from F'rance,
as Protestant refugees, in the reign of William HL,
though they did not settle in Camberwell until
early in the eighteenth century. Champion Lodge,
at the foot of Denmark Hill, was built in 1717, by
Mr. Claude de Crespigny. In 1804, the Prince of
\Vales visited Champion Lotlgc, and of course a
great f^te was made on the occasion, and the
owner of the house was soon afterwards made a
baronet. The i)ark had originally an area of about
thirty acres. The house, noticeable for the fine
iron gates and the stately cedars in front, was
pulled down in 1841, and the site is now occupied
by rows of houses. Sir Claude de Crespigny was
a Fellow of Trinity Hall, Cambridge, and married
the gifted, as well as accomplished, daughter of
Mr. J. Clarke, of Rigton, Derbyshire. It was this
Lady de Crespigny who wrote the admirable lines
which were placed over a grotto standing in the

grounds of Champion Lodge, and dedicated to
Contemplation.

There were also the Drapers, who came from
Nottinghamshire — Robert Draper, of Camberwell,
being page of the Jewel Office to Henry VIII. ;
and his nephew, Sir Christopher Draper, being
Lord Mayor of London in 1566 — his three
daughters marrying respectively. Sir W. Webbe,
Sir Wolstan Dixie, and Sir H. Billingsley, all
subsequently Lord Mayors in their turn.

Of the " local worthies " of Camberwell not
already referred to by us, we may mention the
Rev. Dr. Richard Parr, who was rector of this
parish for thirty-eight years, commencing with
1653, and who was the chaplain and biographer of
Archbishop Usher ; Dr. Chandler, a famous Non-
conformist divine in the early part of the eighteenth
century, whose theological writings excited great
attention, and evoked the high commendations of
Archbishop Wake ; and Dr. William B. Collyer,
who attained great fame as a preacher in the earlier
part of the present century.

Towards the close of the year 1840, Thomas
Hood— the author of " The Song of the Shirt "—
took up his residence in Camberwell ; the house
to which he first brought this family was No.
8, South Place, now 18 r, Camberwell New Road.
He afterwards removed to No. 2, Union Row (now
266, High Street), where he occupied the drawing-
room floor. Hood, who was a real wit and
humourist in the best sense of the word, was born
in London in 1798. His father was a native of
Scotland, and for many years acting partner in the
firm of Vernor, Hood, and Sharpe, extensive book-
sellers and publishers. " There was a dash of ink in
my blood," he writes ; " my father wrote two novels,
and my brother was decidedly of a literary turn,
to the great discjuietude, for a lime, of an anxious
parent." Young Hood finished his education at
Wanostrocht's Academy, at Camberwell ; and re-
moved thence to a merchant's counting-house in
the City, where he realised his own inimitable
sketch of the boy "Just set up in Business ;" —

" Time was I sal upon a lofly stool,
At lofty desk, ,iiul with a clerkly pen,
Began each morning at iho stroke of ten
To wrile in Hell and Co.'s commercial school,
In Waniford Court, a shady nook .and cool.
The favourite retreat of merchant men ;
Yet would my (luill turn vagrant even then.
And lake stray dips in the Castalian pool.
Now double entry — now a flowery trope —
Mingling poetic honey with trade wax :
ISlogg, Hrothcrs -Milton - Orote .and I'rescott — Pope —
Bristles and llogg — (dyn, Mills, and Halifax —
Rogers and Towgood — Hemp — the liard of Hope-
Barilla — Byron — Tallow — Burns, and Flax,"

Camberwell.]

THOMAS HOOD.

285

Mr. Hood's first work was anonymous — his
" Odes and Addresses to Great People " — a little,
thin, mean-looking sort of a foolscap sub-octavo
of poems, with nothing but wit and humour to
recommend it. Coleridge was delighted witli the
work, and taxed Charles Lamb by letter with the
authorship. His next work was " A Plea for the
Midsummer Fairies," a serious poem of infinite
beauty, full of fine passages and of promise. The
" Plea " was followed by "Whims and Oddities "—
the forerunner of the Comic Annual. Then came
the " Epping Hunt " and the " Dream of Eugene
Aram ; " " Tylney Hall," a novel ; and " Hood's
Own ; or. Laughter from Year to Year," a volume
of comic lucubrations, " with an infusion of New
Blood for General Circulation." His " Song of the
Shirt " is familiar through the whole length
and breadth of the three kingdoms. During the
first year of his residence at Camberwell, he was
much amused at witnessing "all the fun of tlie
fair," which then annually ran riot at the latter end
of August. Li a letter, written from " 2, Union
Row, High Street, Camberwell," about this time,
Hood says : " We have much more comfortable
lodgings, and the 'busses pass the door constantly,
being in the high road, fifty or a hundred yards
townwards of the ' Red Cap,' at the Green. I
have a room to myself, which will be worth ,-^20 a
year to me — for a little disconcerts my nerves."
\\\ another letter from this place, dated April i3lh,
1 84 1, Hood writes : — "Camberwell is the best air
I could have." At the close of this year he re-
moved to St. John's Wood, where he died about
four years later, at the early age of forty-seven.

The loyalty and military spirit of Camberwell,
as a constituent portion of the county of Surrey,
appear to have been maintained, without interrup-
tion, since the days of "good Queen Bess,"
Camberwell having then furnished a valiant quota
to the forces collected to oppose the attempted
Spanish invasion ; and having again, after the
lapse of more than two centuries — namely, in
1798 — distinguished itself by forming a " Military
Association," under the presidency and command
of Claude Champion de Crespigny — the lineal
representative of one of the " old families " men-
tioned above; which Association, in 1804 — when
the country unanimously resented the menaces of
Buonaparte — developed itself into a formal volun-
teer corps.

In point of population, Camberwell ofters
one of the most striking examples of increase
which can be found throughout the metropolitan
suburban area — the number of its inhabitants
having grown from 7,059, in 1801, to the astonish-

ing amount of 235,312 in 1891. It seems, indeed,
that with the dawn of this century, Camberwell
suddenly broke through the trammels which had
been imposed upon suburban buildings during the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, and had made
their prescriptive influence felt throughout the
eighteenth. Happy would it have been, both for
the citizens and the city of London, had those
laws been maintained and enforced in a salutary,
judicious, and moderate manner. Then, it has
been remarked, we should not have seen, as we do
now, so many square miles of fertile agricultural
ground covered witli useless bricks and mortar,
the crowded habitations of a seething population ;
then, indeed, we should not have had miles of
beggarly two-storeyed tenements swallowing up all
the open spaces about the metropolis, but should
have adopted a system of building more consonant
with the principles of sanitary laws, as well as with
those of social and political economy.

In itw matters, during the first half of the present
century, has there been a greater change than in
the mode and pace of travelling ; and abundant
illustration of this fact is shown by a retrospect
of the character of the communication between
London and Camberwell as existing in the years
1796 and to-day. In the former year, one Cam-
berwell coach was advertised to leave the " Anchor
and Vine," Charing Cross, twice daily, and another
to leave the " Kings and Key," Fleet Street, three
times daily. Now, besides omnibuses, whose name
is legion, there are several railway-stations in Cam-
berwell, and, likewise, a line of tramway from
Westminster to Camberwell Green and New Cross,
besides other tramway lines from Camberwell to
Blackfriars and the City. By means of its rail-
way and tramway communication, in addition to
the ordinary omnibus service, Camberwell is now
placed within easy reach of the centre of the metro-
polis, of which indeed it forms a part.

In the Peckham Road, by which we now pro-
ceed, we pass, on our left, one of the two asylums
licensed for the reception of lunatics in Camber-
well. This asylum, known as Camberwell House,
with its surrounding pleasure and garden grounds,
occupies a space of some twenty acres, part of
which is laid out in a park-like manner, the
remainder being kept for the use of the patients
who take an interest in garden pursuits. The
principal building, formerly known as Alfred
House, was erected by Mr. Wanostrocht for a
school, which he conducted for many years with
eminent success. The house was afterwards used
by the Royal Naval School, which, as we have
already seen, was subsequently removed to New

286

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Peckham.

Cross.* The Royal Naval School was projected by
Captain Dickson ; was started by voluntary con-
tributions, headed by the handsome donation of
^10,000 from the late Dr. Bell; and had for its
object the education of the sons of those naval and
marine officers whose scanty incomes did not allow
them to provide a first-rate education for their boys.
Its office was represented, from 1S31 to 1833, by a
second-floor room in Jermyn Street, St. James's ;
and here its founders and projectors regularly met
on board days, and worked for the advancement
of the interests of the Royal Naval School. They
were famous men who went up those stairs to the
humble committee-room in Jermyn Street — men
whose names are household words amongst us now,

and whom history will remember. William IV.,
"the Sailor King,' was interested in this school,
and met there Yorke, Blackwood, Keats, Hardy,
Codrington, and Cockburn — brave admirals and
famous " old salts," some of whom could recol-
lect, mayhap, what a struggle it was to live like
a gentleman once, and bring up their boys as
gentlemen's sons, on officer's pay. Alfred House
was for a time the institution which uprose from
the committee's first deliberations, from voluntary
contributions, and unaided by that Government
grant which it deserved as an impetus in the first
instance, and which to this day, and for reasons
inexplicable to all connected with the service and
the school, it has been unable to obtain.

CHAPTER XXII.

PECKHAM AND DULWICH.

Situation of Peckham — Queen's Road — Albert Road— The Manor House of Peckham — Hill Street — Shard Square and the " Shard Arms " —
Peckham House — Old Mansions in Peckham — Marlborough House — The " Rosemary Branch" — Peckham Fair — The " Kentish Drovers"
— Hanover Street — Hanover Chapel— Basing Manor — Rye Lane— The Railway Station — The Museum of Fire-arms — Peckham Rye —
Nunhead Green — The Asylum of the Metropolitan Beer and Wine Trade Association — Nunhead Cemetery — Nul\head Hill— The
Reservoirs of the Southwark and Vauxhall Waterworks — Heaton's Folly — Honour Oak — Camberwell Cemetery — Friem Manor Farm —
Goose Green — Lordship Lane— The '' Plough " Inn — The Scenery round Dulwich — The Haunt of the Gipsies — Visit of the Court of
Charles L to Dulwich, for the Purposes of Sport — Outrages in Dulwich Wood — The Stocks and Cage at Dulwich — The " Green Man '*
Tavern — Bew's Comer— Dulwich Wells — Dr. Glennie's School — Byron a Scholar there — The "Crown," the "Half Moon," and the
"Greyhound" Taverns — The Dulwich Club— Noted Residents of Dulwich — The Old Manor House — Edward Alleyn at Home — Dulwich
College — Dulwich Picture-gallery — The New Schools of Dulwich College.

out of the Queen's Road, was known by the
not very euplionious appellation of Cow Walk.
Within the present century Peckham rejoiced in
a park of considerable extent, extending at one
time from the High Street as far northward as the
Old Kent Road ; but its existence is now merely
kept in remembrance by Peckham Park Road,
which, with Hill Street, unites the two thorough-
fares, and lias long been built upon. The Manor
House of Peckham, which occupied a central posi-
tion, was standing in 1809, when Priscilla Wake-
field wrote her work above quoted. It is said to
have been built by Sir Thomas Bond,t one of
the confidential friends of James II., and who
loyally accompanied that monarch into exile.

Sir Thomas Trevor, Chief Justice of the Court
of Common Pleas, created Lord Trevor by Queen
Anne in 17 11, and one of the twelve individuals
who were made peers at once during the struggle
for power, ])urchased the Peckham estate from Sir
Henry Bond. The judge resided here occasionally,
and after his decease, in 1731, the estate was pur-
chased by a Mrs. Hill, from whom it descended to
her nephew, Isaac P. Shard, Esq.; in 181 2 it

+ Sec (tnic, p. 373.

Peckham, as a metropolitan suburb, has a history
completely of its own, made up of King John, Nell
Gwynne, the great Duke of Marlborough, Hannah
Lightfoot, Dr. Collyer, and other celebrities ; yet it
is nevertheless curtly described by Priscilla Wake-
field, in her " Perambulations of London," as " a
hamlet in the parish of Camberwell, on the road
proceeding to Greenwich." The only scrap of
information which slie adds is that "' a large fair
is held at Peckham annually, affording a holiday to
a vast number of the lower classes of Londoners."
Of this fair we shall have more to say ])resently.
The road above referred to leads from the Green
at Camberwell, passes the parish church, and,
continuing on through the village of Peckham,
terminates in Queen's Road, which winds in a
north-easterly direction, and ultimately unites with
the Old Kent Road, near New Cross. Queen's
Road, now a broad and well-built thoroughfare,
was formerly known as Dejjtford Lane, and was
re-named in honour of Her Majesty Queen Victoria,
who often passed through it on her way to tlie
Royal Naval School at New Cross. It is not
so very long ago that Albert Road, a turning

■ Sec iift/e, p. 947.

Peckham.]

THE "ROSEMARY BRANCH."

287

belonged to his second son, Mr. Charles Shard,
of Lovel's Hill, near Windsor, who inherited the
property from his elder brother. " In 1797," writes
Mr. Blanch, in his History of Camberwell, " this
ancient mansion was levelled to the ground for
the then commencing great metropolitan improve-
ments, and the present Hill Street forms the site
of the once magnificent and stately mansion." The
Shards are kept in remembrance by Shard Square
and the " Shard Arms."

Branching out of the Peckham Road, a number
of new thoroughfares have sprung up within the
last quarter of a century, the names of which im-
part quite a legal tone to the district, the roads
being dedicated to Lords Lyndhurst, Denman, and
Selborne, and to Mr. Justice Talfourd. A few
steps out of the High Street is Peckham House,
formerly an old private mansion, but for the last
half century a lunatic asylum, kept by Dr. Stocker,
whose predecessor was a Dr. Armstrong. Its
interior has been more than once graphically
described by newspaper writers. The fine old
mansion and surrounding acres have not always
been connected with the sad side of humanity,
for prior to 1826 the noble building resounded
with the merry laughter of freedom. The wealthy
family of Spitta lived here in grand style, giving
fetes, or what would now be termed garden-
parties, to their neighbours, and dispensing charity
with no niggard hand amongst the poor of the
locality.

The High Street still boasts of many quaint
houses, some of which can date back more than
two centuries. The police-station forms part of
what was once a fine mansion, formerly occupied
by a wealthy family of the name of Dalton, and
subsequently used as a convent. The police-
station occupies the site of one of its outbuildings.
Another house, now a draper's shop, was formerly
the head-quarters of the Royal Asylum of St.
Ann's Society, which was founded in 1702; whilst
Avenue House, since the central office of Miss
Rye's establishment for aiding the cause of female
emigration, was, in days of old, a family mansion
of some note.

Near the High Street, on the ground now
covered by Marlborough Road, formerly stood
Marlborough House, an old mansion, supposed
at one time to have been the residence of some
members of the Churchill family. The building
contained a noble entrance-hall and a fine oak
itaircase, and frescoes adorned the walls and
ceilings. For some years prior to its demolition,
the building was used as a workhouse, where the
city paupers were farmed. Blenheim House, still

standing in the High Street, is lliought to have
been a minor building attached to the mansion.

The " Rosemary Branch " tavern, in Southamp-
ton Street, which stands at the junction of the
Commercial Road, although possessing but a local
reputation at the present time, was a well-known
metropolitan hostelry at the commencement of the
century. The old house, which was pulled down
many years ago, was a picturesque structure, with
rustic surroundings. Its original sign, if we may
trust an entry in the churchwardens' accounts for
1707, appears to have been the "Rosemary Bush ;"
at all events, the entry referred to runs thus :
" Received of Mr. Travers, for a stranger dying at
y° Rosemary Bush, 00. 00. o4d." Tradition has
it, that whenever the landlord of the old house
tapped a barrel of beer, the inhabitants for some
distance round were apprised of the fact by bell
and proclamation ! When the new house was
erected it was described, in a print of the time,
as an " establishment which has no suburban rival."
The grounds surrounding it were most extensive,
and horse-racing, cricketing, pigeon-shooting, and
all kinds of out-door sports and pastimes were
carried on within them ; just as at Belsize a century
ago.* The grounds have now been almost entirely
covered with houses.

The " Rosemary Branch " is by no means a
common sign for a public-house ; but this house at
Peckham is perhaps one of the best known in the
metropolis. Rosemary was formerly an emblem of
remembrance, much as the forget-me-not is now.
"There's rosemary, that's for remembrance," says
Ophelia, in the play of Hamlet ; and, in the
Winter's Tale, Perdita says :

" For you, there's rosemary and rue ; these keep
Seeming and savour all tlie winter long ;
Grace and remembrance be unto you both." .

A local tradition says that King John, hunting
at Peckham, killed a stag, and was so pleased with
the sport, that he granted its inhabitants an annual
fair of three weeks' continuance ; but no charter
to that effect has been found. Another account
says that it was granted, at the instance of Nell
Gwynne, by our " merry monarch," on his return
from a day's sport in the neighbourhood to the
residence of Sir Thomas Bond, already mentioned
as one of his favourites. The fair is stated, by the
author of " Merrie' England in the Olden Time,"
to have been held in the immediate vicinity of the
" Kentish Drovers," an old-established tavern in
the Peckham Road, which is said to have e.\isted
here for about two centuries. When Peckham was

* See Vol. v., p. 496.

288

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

(Peckham,

a village, surrounded by green fields, the " Kenrish
Drovers," as the sign implies, was a well-known
halting-place for cattle-dealers, &c, on the road
into Kent. Peckham Fair, with its wild beast and
other shows, was of venerable antiquity at the date
of its suppression. It was a famous place of resort
with holiday-makers in the last century, and always
had more than its share of curious monsters ex-
hibited in its booths. Here, for instance, is one

5. The he- Panther, from Turkey, allowed by the curious

to be one of the greatest rarities ever seen in England, on
which are thousands of spots, and no two of a likeness.

6 & 7. The two fierce and surprising Hysnas, Male and
Female, from the river Gambia. These creatures imitate
the human voice, and so decoy negroes out of their huts and
plantations to devour them. They have a mane like a horse,
and two joints in their hinder legs more than any other
creature. It is remarkable that all other beasts are to be
tamed, but Hy^n.is they are not.

8. An Ethiopian Tobo Savage, having all the actions of

iSL.MAKV BliAN'CH " IN iSoO.

of its programmes, at the top of which stands the
name of " George I. R." : —

To THE Lovers of Curiosities.— To be seen, during
the time of Peckham Fair, a grand Collection of Living
Wild Beasts and Birds, lately arrived from the remotest
parts of the world

1. The Pelican, that suckles her young with licr Heart's
blood, from Egypt.

2. The noble Vulture Cock, brought from Archangell,
hiving the finest tallons («V) of any bird that seeks his prey.
The fore part of his head is covered with hair ; the second
part resembles the wool of a Black ; below that is a white
Ring, having a Ruff th.it he cloaks his head with at night.

3. An Eagle of the Sun, that takes the loftiest flight of
any Bird that flics. There is no bird but this that can fly to
the face of the sun with a naked eye.

4. A curious beast, bred from a Lioness, like a foreign
Wild Cat.

the human species, which, when it is at its full growth, will
be upwards of five feet high.

9. Also several other surprising Creatures of different
sorts. To be seen from 9 in the morning till 9 at night till
they are sold. Also all manner of curiosities of different
sorts are bought and sold at the above place by John
Bennett.

In August, 1787, were to be seen at the fair
such examples of the four-footed race as bears,
monkeys, dancing-dogs, learned pigs, &c. Mr.
Flockton, " in his theatrical bootli opposite the
'Kentish Drovers,'" exhibited the Italian fantocini,
the farce of the Conjuror, and his " inimitable
musical clock." Mr. Lane, " first performer to the
king," played off his "snip-sn.ip, rip-rap, crick-
crack, and tliundcr tricks, that the grown babies
stared like worried cats." This extraordinary

Peclthatn.1

GOLDSMITH'S MOUSE.

2S9

genius " will drive about forty twelve-penny nails
into any gentleman's breech, place him in a load-
stone chair, and draw them out without the least
pain ! He is, in short, the most wonderful of all
wonderful creatures the world ever wondered at."
At this fair Sir Jeffrey Dunstan sported his hand-
some figure within his booth, outside of which
was displayed a likeness of the elegant original in
his pink satin smalls. " His dress, address, and

ments. Dramatic performances occasionally took
place here as late as the beginning of this century.
In 1822, however, the Lancasterian school for boys
took possession of the premises.

In the High Street, at the corner of Clayton
Road, there formerly stood a very quaint old house,
with a thatched roof; it had once been a farm-
house. It was pulled down in 1850.

The house at Peckham, where Goldsmith was

' HEAION b Ic LL\,

oratory fascinated the audience ; in fact, ' Jeffy
was quite tonish.' " Peckham Fair was held on
the 2ist, 22nd, and 23rd of August. It grew,
however, to be a nuisance, as fairs generally do,
and was abolished in 1827.

At Peckham — though the statement is very
doubtful at best — George III. is said to have been
married to the fair Quakeress, Hannah Lightfoot,
on the 27th of May, 1759. We have already
introduced this lady to our readers in our account
of St. James's Market.*

There was in the High Street a theatre, at which,
says tradition, Nell Gwynne sometimes performed,
and her royal paramour attended the entertain-

266

* See Vol. IV., p. 207.

employed as tutor in a school under a Dr. Milner,
and where he wrote the best part of his " Vicar of
Wakefield," was pulled down in 1876. In the
Life of Goldsmith prefixed to liis " Works " we
read : " Tired of practice, or disappointed of suc-
cess, he soon exchanged the phial for the ferule,
and prescriptions for spelling-books. Goldsmith
came out in the character of a schoolmaster's
assistant at Peckham, a kind of employment to
which he had been used before ; and at the table
of Dr. Milner — for so the master of the school
was named — he became acquainted with Smollett,
who first directed him to literature as a means of
subsistence, by employing him as a contributor
to the Monthly Review. Subsequently, physic and
literature were combined to eke out a maintenance,

ago

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Peckham.

and, in the double capacity of doctor and author,
he presents himself to our notice in a wretched
lodging by Salisbury Square, Fleet Street. Here
we have a peep into the life of a poor literary
man of the eighteenth century, to which parallels
are numerous enough in the nineteenth. Leaving
his lodgings, he kept his appointments at some
house of call ; the Temple Exchange Coffee-house,
Temple Bar, was his most favoured resort. There,
indeed, was his ostensible abode ; and the people
who saw him by day had little idea of the forlorn
lodging where he spent his nights." The school
was afterwards called in his honour Goldsmith's
House. An avenue of trees in the grounds was
once known as " Goldsmith's Walk," but it has
long since passed away.

Hanover Street, in Rye Lane (formerly South
Street), was doubtless intended as a compliment to
the House of Hanover, some members of that
family having been great patrons of Dr. Collyer,
whose chapel, at the entrance to Rye Lane, was
also known as Hanover Chapel. Basing Yard, in
the rear of Hanover Street, serves as a memorial
of Basing Manor, a well-known residence here
during the time of the first and second Charles.
Among the former residents of Peckham, there was
Sir T. Gardyner, of Basing Manor, who, wlien
writing to Lord Dorchester, in 1630, concerning
the Papal machinations in Spain, eccentrically
remarks that he would write a book on the subject
if his time " were not so mucli occupied with
growing melons and other fruits."

In Rye Lane is a large and well-built station, on
the South London and the London, Chatham, and
Dover Railways. Close by the station, a large
building was erected in 1867, as a Museum of
Fire-Arms, and for the exhibition of everything
connected with gunnery. After standing a fevi^
years, it was burnt down, but was subsequently
rebuilt. A rifle-range was also connected with the
building, which, in process of time, was made to
serve the purposes of a pleasure resort ; but this
in the end was converted into a manufactory of
fire-arms.

Peckham Rye — a tract of common said to be
upwards of fifty acres in extent — has from " time
immemorial " been used as a recreation-ground by
the inliabitants, not only of this district, but by
thousands upon thousands whose life is principally
spent amidst City smoke or over-built suburbs.
Peckham Rye formed ]iart of two manors, known
as Caml)er\vcll Buckingham and Cambcrwell Friern ;
but in the year 1868 the manorial rights were pur-
chased by the vestry of the parish. Previous to
this acquisition of " the Rye " — as the common is

popularly called — by the vestry, the lord of the
manor. Sir William Bowyer Smyth, had granted to
a few of the inhabitants in its vicinity leases for
twenty-one years, all of which expired in December,
1 866. The lessees usually expended about ;^ioo
per annum (partly contributed by the inhabitants
of the neighbourhood) in keeping the common in
good condition.

The lord of the manor formerly held considerable
property in the vicinity of Peckham Rye ; indeed,
as Mr. Blanch tells us, at one time the Bowyer
family were the principal landowners in this parish.
As far back as 1766, and again in 1789, protests
were made by the parishioners against encroach-
ments on the Rye, facts which are duly recorded
in the Vestry Minutes. In 1865, a meeting of the
inhabitants was held, to consider the best means
to be adopted to prevent the erection of buildings
on the Rye ; and the matter was taken up by
Parliament. In his evidence before the Committee
of the House of Commons, in 1865, the steward of
the lord of the manor claimed for Sir Edward
Bowyer Smyth the absolute ownership of the Rye.
In the end, however, as we have staled above, the
manorial rights, whatever they may have been,
were purchased by the vestry ; and thus the Rye
has become the common property of the parish, and
been made available for the use of the South
Londoner.* In 1883 it passed under the control
of the Metropolitan Board of Works (now super-
seded by the London County Council), and has
been enclosed and laid out as a recreation ground.

In former times, the people's claims to the
commons were stoutly defended — even to the
sacrifice of life — not so much for the right of
recreation as for the right of grazing or of gathering
fuel. An old ditty, embodying the feeling of the
people, runs thus : —

" 'Tis very bad, in man or woman,
To steal a goose from off the common ;
But who sliall plead that man's excuse
Who steals the common from the goose ?"

In some old documents the Rye is spelled
" Rey ;" and the old word " ree," a water-course,
river, or expanse of water, is considered as probably
the origin of the term. On the Rye is a quaint
old farm-house, known as Homestead Farm, which
takes us back to the time when such holdings
abounded throughout the district.

On the north-east side of Peckham Rye is Nun-
head, which is rapidly becoming a place of some
importance, with a large population, and the head-

■ This case is .is nearly as possible identical with that of Hampstead
Heath. Sec Vol. V., p. 45a.

Peckham.]

HEATON'S FOLLY.

291

quarters of various centres of industry. Nuiihead
Green, an open space about one acre in extent, still
remains; but its surroundings are now very dif-
ferent from what they were half a century ago, when
village lads and lasses were wont to dance and
romp there, and when the ancient " Nun's Head,"
which has been an institution in the locality for
above two hundred years, was an object of attrac-
tion, through its tea-gardens, to worn-out citizens.

Here is the Asylum of the Metropolitan Beer
and Wine Trade Association, which dates from
1851, when, at a general meeting of the beer-trade
as a protection society, the idea assumed a sub-
stantial form, and a subscription was opened. The
beer-sellers actively bestirred themselves to imitate
the good example set by the licensed victuallers,
by seeking to provide an asylum for their aged and
decayed members. Indeed, one of the original
objects contemplated by the promoters of the
society was, "To raise a fund from which to allow
temporary or permanent assistance to members of
the trade." It was considered that the most useful
permanent assistance that could be rendered would
be by the erection of almshouses. The present
plot of freehold ground, situate at Nunhead Green,
was consequently purchased with the funds in hand
for ^'550. An appeal was then made to the trade
for further fimds to erect the building, the result of
which enabled the committee to commence the
work. The first stone was laid by Lord Monteagle
(the patron of the society) in June, 1852, and the
building was completed and opened for the recep-
tion of inmates in September, 1853, the total cost
being about ^3,000. It comprises seven houses,
each containing four rooms and a kitchen, accom-
modating in all thirteen inmates, and a piece of
garden-ground in the rear for the use of the inmates
is attached to each holding. In 1872 a new wing
was completed, by the erection of eight six-roomed
houses, thus providing accommodation for sixteen
more inmates. There is an allowance of 6s. per
week to single inmates, and 9s. per week to married
couples.

Nunhead Cemetery, covering an area of about
fifty acres, occupies the summit of some rising
ground, whence a good view is obtained of the
surrounding neighbourhood. The cemetery was
consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester in 1840,
and is beautifully laid out with gravel walks, and
thickly planted with trees, shrubs, and flowers.
The chapels in the grounds are conspicuous objects
for miles round.

Nunhead Hill is mentioned by Hone in his
"Every-day Book" (1827), as being "the favourite
resort of smoke-dried London artisans." A narrow

path by the side of the cemetery is all that remains
of their Sunday promenade.

On the north side of Nunhead Cemetery are the
reservoirs of the Southwark and Vauxhall Water
Company, covering several acres of land. The
works include four reservoirs — two high level and
two low level. The Company draws its water from
the River Thames, about six miles above Ted-
dington Locks. The water, having been pumped
up by an engine at Hampton Court, is forced on
to Battersea, whence powerful engines again send
it on to the reservoirs at Nunhead. The engine-
house here, which stands between the upper and
lower reservoirs, is a handsome brick structure,
with a square tower some seventy feet high, and
it is built in the style of architecture known as the
Venetian.

Within the grounds now occupied by St. Mary's
College, stood a building of some note in the
early part of the present century, and known as
" Heaton's Folly." This building was capped with
a tower, giving it the appearance of a religious
edifice. Lysons gives the following account of the
structure : — " On the right side of the path leading
from Peckham to Nunhead, appears this building,
environed with wood. It has a singular appearance,
and certainly was the effect of a whim. Various
tales are related of its founder; but the most
feasible appears his desire of giving employment to
a number of artificers during a severe dearth. It
is related that he employed five hundred persons
in this building, and adding to the grounds ; which
is by no means improbable, as, on entering the
premises, a very extensive piece of water appears,
embanked by the properties taken from its bosom.
In the centre of it is an island, well cultivated ;
indeed, the whole ground is now (1796) so
luxuriantly spread, that I much doubt if such
another spot, within a considerable distance from
the metropolis, can boast such a variety and
significance. The whole is within a fence; and,
time having assisted the maturity of the coppice,
you are, to appearance, enjoying the effects of a
small lake in the centre of a wood. Motives the
most laudable, as before observed, induced the
founder of this sequestered spot to give bread to
many half-starved and wretched families; and, to
use the phrase of our immortal Shakespeare, ' It is
like the dew from heaven, and doubly blesses.'
If from appearance we are to judge of the place,
it thrives indeed ; and what was meant as assistance
to a neighbouring poor, and stragglers, wretched
and forlorn, is now, with all propriety, the Paradise
of Peckham."

In the neighbourhood of Peckham Rye, on the

292

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

fDulwich.

road to Forest Hill and Sydenham, is a hill with an
oak upon its summit, called the "Oak of Honour :"
at present shortened into "Honor Oak." It is said
to have been so called because Queen Elizabeth,
in one of her excursions on horseback from Green-
wich, dined beneath its shade. The original tree
has long since perished, having been struck by-
lightning, but it has been replaced by a successor.
Mr. James Thome, in his " Environs," writes :—
"In the Chamberlain's papers for 1602 is this
entry : ' On May-day the Queen [Elizabeth] went
a-Maying to Sir Richard Buckley's, at Lewisham,
some three or four miles off Greenwich.' Bulke-
ley's house was probably on the Sydenham side
of Lewisham, where is Oak of Honour Hill, so
named, according to the local tradition, from Queen
Elizabeth having sat beneath the oak on its summit
when she went hither a-maying."

Honour Oak, which is one of the boundaries of
the parish, has witnessed many interesting gather-
ings, not the least impressive being that performed
there, in former times, on the occasion of "beating
the bounds," when it was customary for those
assembled to join in singing the 1041)1 Psalm,
" under the shadow of the Oak of Honour Hill."
From the advantages oftered by its elevated posi-
tion, the place formerly served as a beacon-hill,
and a semaphore telegraph at one time was raised
upon its summit.

On the south side of Forest Hill Road, and
within a short distance of Oak of Honour Hill, is
Camberwell Cemetery.

Friern Place, on the south-west side of Peckham
Rye, keeps in remembrance the name of Friern
Manor, the farm of which was known in recent
times as a dairy-farm on a large scale. The Manor
Farm-house and all its sheds and out-buildings
were sold at the end of 1873. The house, which
was not the original manor-house, was built by
Lord St. John, in 1725; and there is a tradition
that Alexander Pope resided there for a season,
writing a portion of the " Essay on Man " beneath
its roof, but it is merely a tradition. Lordship
Lane, which lies on the west side of Friern
Manor — uniting Goose Green and East Dulwich
witli Court Lane and the village of Dulwich — is
supposed to have taken its name from the lordship
of Friern Manor.

In Lord.ship Lane, there was, in the time of
William Hone, an inn called the "Plough" — an
old-fashioned wooden structure — on one of the
windows of which was the following inscription,
cut with a diamond : — " March 16, 1810. Thomas
Jones (lined here, cat six poun<ls of bacon and
drank nineteen pots of beer." This record of dis-

gusting gluttony was, no doubt, swept away when
the " Plough " was rebuilt some few years ago.

A wTiter in Hone's " Every-day Book" (1827)
thus describes the scenery in this neighbourhood : —
" Below me, yet wearing its sober livery of brown,
lies the wood, the shadowy haunt of the gipsy
tribe ere magisterial authority drove them away.
Many a pleasant hour have I spent in my younger
days with its Cassandras, listening to their prophetic
voices and looking at their dark eyes. I proceed :
Sydenham lies before me ; beyond it, in softened
distance, Beckenham and Bromley meet the eye,
with Dulwich below ; and in the foreground lies a
rich variety of upland and dale, studded with snow-
white dwellings."

Dulwich, which we now enter, is described in
Hone's " Table-Book," with some little exaggera-
tion, as " the prettiest of all the village entrances
in the environs of London ;" and Priscilla Wake-
field, in her " Perambulations" (1809), says it is "a
hamlet to Camberwell, and is pleasantly retired,
having no high road passing through it. It was
formerly," she adds, " the resort of much company,
on account of a medicinal spring, which has now
lost its reputation. The house which has the sign
of the ' Green Man ' was for some time the resi-
dence of Lord Thurlow. A fine avenue through
the wood faces this house, and leads to a charming
prospect. Tlie manor of Dulwich belongs to the
college founded there, in 1614, by Master Edward
Alleyn, the proprietor of the Fortune playhouse,
in Whitecross Street, and also a favourite actor.
The foundation was for a master and warden of
the lineage and surname of Alleyn (but the im-
possibility of finding them has obliged Allen
and other names to be accepted), also four
fellows, six poor brethren, and six poor sisters ;
twelve scholars, six assistants, and thirty out-
members or pensioners. It was originally built
after a design by Inigo Jones, and formed three
sides of a square. The picture-gallery, in a separate
building, contains some scarce and valuable paint-
ings. The chapel is a plain structure, which
serves as a chapel of ease to the inhabitants of
the hamlet. The founder, his wife, and her mother,
are buried in it ; and a clause in the statutes
permits tliat privilege to the master, warden, and
fellows, but excludes all others."

Notwithstanding the active building operations
that of late years have fenced in London and its
suburbs with miles of bricks and mortar, the village
of Dulwich still presents a rural aspect, and large
tracts of meadow-land arc yet to be found within
its borders. I'Yoni the high grounds of Champion
Hill, Denmark Hill, and Heme Hill, of which we

Dulwich.]

DULWICH WELLS.

293

have spoken in the preceding chapter, through the
whole length of the intervening valley, and up the
opposite slopes to the summit of Sydenham and
Forest Hills, may still be heard the song of birds ;
whilst the beauties of the place are spread out
in groves and pleasure-grounds, green lanes, and
flowery meadows. The southern portion of the
hamlet was formerly an immense wood, intersected
with devious paths. It was the sacred home of
the gipsy tribe, and the rendezvous of summer
parties. At the beginning of the present century,
before what may be termed modern Dulwich sprang
into existence, Byron, then a schoolboy here, made
Duhvich Wood one of his favourite haunts, and,
we are told, would there " daily hold converse with
motley groups of the vagabond class." But little
is left of the wood beyond a memory, which local
nomenclature has done something to preserve, in
the names of Dulwich Wood Park, Kingswood
Road, and Crescent Wood Road. We are told
how that, in the days of Charles I., the Court paid
frequent visits to Dulwich and its woods for the
purposes of sport ; and how authority was given
by warrant to one Anthony Holland, one of the
yeomen-huntsmen in ordinary to his Majesty, to
make known his Majesty's commands to the in-
habitants of Dulwich " that they forbeare to hunt,
chace, molest, or hurt the king's stagges with
greyhounds, hounds, gunnes, or any other means
whatsoever;" and also how the said Anthony
Holland was further authorised " to take from any
person or persons offending therein their dogges,
hounds, gunnes, crossbowes, or other engynes."

Duhvich Wood has been the scene of several
outrages, notably those which occurred in 1738,
when a man named Samuel Bentyman was mur-
dered, and in 1803, when Samuel Matthews, known
as the Dulwich Hermit, met with a similar fate.
Mr. Blanch informs us that the wood has been
gradually disappearing from tlie time when Edward
Alleyn issued his statutes and ordinances for the
foundation of the college in the early part of the
seventeenth century, for by the io6th item it is
ordered " that twentye acres of woode be felled and
sold yearly, such wood-falls to be made at seasonable
times, and in accordance with the laws and statutes
of England, for the preservation of timber-trees,
such trees to be of the growth of ten yeares ;" and
by the 1 1 oth item it is enacted " that no timber-trees
shall be sold to any pson. or psons. whatsoever, but
to the tenants of the lands belonging to the said
college in Dulwich, for the building or repayring
of their tenements."

The same writer justly remarks, in his " History
of Camberwell," that "the Dulwich College Building

Act of 1 80S, the Metropolis Local Management
Act of 1855, the Charity Commissioners' scheme
of 1857, the formation of the iron roads, and the
craving of merchants for suburban residences, have
done much to alter the aspect of the place ;" but
that, " compared with neighbouring suburbs, it has
died hard, and not until Cowper's ' opulent, en-
larged, and still-increasing London,' by sheer force
of circumstances, has laid its hands upon it, will
Dulwich surrender its individuality."

The village "stocks" and "cage," with the
motto, " It is a sport for a fool to do mischief;
thine own wickedness shall correct thee," formerly
stood at the corner of the pathway across the fields
leading to Camberwell, opposite the burial-ground ;
and the college " pound," which had long stood
near the toll-gate in the Penge Road, was, in 1862,
ordered to be removed to the end of Croxted Lane.
One of the most interesting spots within the hamlet
is that formerly known as Bew's Corner, Lordship
Lane. The " Green Man," a tavern of some note
in the middle of the last century, formerly occupied
the site, after which time Dr. Glennie's school was
built ; and that in its turn having disappeared, a
beer-house was opened there, by a man named
Bew, formerly employed at the college, who made
use of some out-buildings of the once famous
school, and converted the grounds into a tea-
garden.

The famous Dulwich Wells were in close prox-
imity to the "Green Man," and the Dulwich waters
were cried about the streets of London as far back
as 1678; and for many years, through the high
repute of the waters, much custom was drawn to
the adjoining tavern, which, in 1748, was described
as a "noted house of good entertainment." The
proprietor flourished so well, that a publication of
the time tells us that " he has lately built a hand-
some room on one end of his bowling-green for
breakfasts, dancing, and entertainment ; a part of
the fashionable luxury of the present age, which
every village for ten miles round London has
something of" A full account of the Duhvich
mineral waters was communicated to the public
through the " Philosophical Transactions," by Pro-
fessor Martyn, F.R.S. Mr. Bray, in his account
of this parish in his " History of Surrey," writes : — ■
"In the autumn of 1739, Mr. Cox, master of the
' Green Man,' about a mile south of the village of
Dulwich, having occasion to sink a well for his
family, dug down about sixty feet without finding
water. Discouraged at this, he covered it up, and
so left it. In the following spring, however, he
opened it again ; when, the Botanical Professor in
the University of Cambridge being present, it was

294

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tDulwich.

found to contain about twenty-five feet of water, of
a sulphureous taste and smell." It was found by
experiment to be possessed of purgative qualities,
and was for some time used medicinally, but was
afterwards neglected.

Dr. Webster, who has been considered a high
authority on the subject, writes as follows with
reference to these waters : — " The saline spring was,
and is, situated on Sydenham Common, in Wells
Lane, on the slope of the hill between Dulwich
and Sydenham. The little old cottage and garden
where the ' Sydenham Wells ' are, belongs to two

pupil for two years. The old house was taken
down about ten years after, when Dr. Glennie had
left; but I remember then seeing a well within the
premises, which had been long shut up or disused,
and I tasted the water, which was decidedly
chalybeate. On the site of the old ' Green Man '
now stands the ' Grove Tavern,' of no celebrity in
any way unless from the circumstances now stated,
and which very few knew besides myself I knew
the supposed localities of both these places many
years ago, but it is only recently that Evelyn's
' Diary ' fell in my way, and it is remarkable that

DR. GLENNIE'S ACADEM-V, DULWICH GROVE, l.N lb20.

elderly women of the name of F.vans, and on my
expressing surprise that they had not been ' bought
out ' for building, as the spot is surrounded by
modern mansions and good houses, they replied,
they kept possession, as the little property would
be beneficial to their deceased brother's children.
It is not at all resorted to now for medicinal
purposes ; but the water is strongly saline, similar
to that at the quondam ' Beulah Spa,' at Streatham
Common, and at Epsom. It is situated in the
parish of Lewisham, Kent. The Dulwich Spa was
a chalybeate sjiring, situated about a mile S.E. of
Dulwich College, close to, or rather, 1 believe, ///
the premises of the ' Green Man,' then a place of
resort on the verge of Dulwich Common. This
was as far back as the seventeenth century ; but
this house of entertainment was, when I first knew
it (1815), a house of instruction, as Dr. Glennie's
well-known academy, at which Lord Byron was a

he incidentally mentions them so as to identify
the two springs. Under date September 2nd,
1675, he notes : ' I went to see Dulwich Colledge,
being the pious foundation of one Allen, a famous
comedian in King James's time. The chapell is
pretty ; the rest of the hospital very ill contriv'd ;
it yet maintaines divers poore of both sexes. 'Tis
in a melancholy part of Camerwell parish. I came
back by certaine medicinal Spa waters at a place
called Sydnam Wells, in Lewisham parish, much
frequented in summer.' And further on: '1677,
August 5th, I went to visit my Lord Krounker,
now taking the waters at Dulwich.' So you see,"
adds Dr. Webster, " there were two distinct spas
within a mile, but in different parishes and counties,
as Dulwich is in Surrey." Thus, as our readers wil!
observe, fashionable persons resorted to Dulwich
for the purpose of "taking the waters," just as they
did to Hampstcad a century later.

VIEWS IN OLD CAMBERWELL AND DULWICH.
I. St. Mary-Ie-Strand House, Old Kent Road. 2. Goldsmith's House. 3. Bew's Comer, Dulwich.

5, Old Crown Inn, Dulwich. 6, Plough Inn, Lordship Lane.

4. Old CamberweU,

296

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Dulwich.

Among the pupils at Dr. Glennie's academy in
Dulwich Grove, were several who in after years
rose to fame and fortune — Lord Byron, General Le
Marchant, Sir Donald M'Leod, Captain Barclay,
the celebrated pedestrian, and others. " Once a
week did the little party meet together in the
spacious entrance-hall for a little rational amuse-
ment, and the Saturday evening concerts at
Dulwich attracted visitors from outside the family
circle. ' Tom ' Campbell the poet, Howard and
Wilkie, artists and academicians, and Barker the
well-known painter of panoramas, and many others,
often found themselves at Dulwich. Campbell
had not far to come, for he resided at Sydenham
for seventeen years before that retired little village
became an 'endless pile of brick.' Here the
happiest of the poet's days were spent in genial
and congenial society, and much concerning
' evenings ' there may be found in the memoirs of
Moore, Hook, Hunt, the brothers Smith, and
others.

"The narrow lane, lined with hedgerows, and
passing through a little dell watered by a rivulet —
the extensive prospect of undulating hills, park-
like enclosures, the shady walks," where the poet
was "safe from all intrusion but that of the Muses,"
as he himself describes them —

" Spring green lanes,
With .ill tlie dazzling field-flowers in th
And ' ' • ' - ■• --^-L.:___,

leir prime,

1 illl llic iia^^iiiii' iitiki-iiu « 1.1 J ill iiii_ii

Ana gardens haunted by the nightingale's
Long trills and gushing ecstasies of song."

With respect to Byron's school-days at Duhvich,
there is nothing remarkable for us to record. In
a letter to Tom Moore, Dr. Glennie speaks of
Byron's ambition to e.xcel in all athletic exercises,
notwithstanding his lameness ; " an ambition,"
writes Dr. Glennie, "which I have found to pre-
vail in general in young persons labouring under
similar defects of nature." It is said that Byron
and his schoolfellows kept up a mimicry of
brigandage, and that the stern demand of " Stand
and deliver " was often made, to the amusement
of the boys, and the fright of the passing stranger.
"It must not be imagined," adds Mr. Blanch,
in writing of this epoch, " that brigandage in
Dulwich was all i>lay, for at the commencement
of the present century Sydenham Hill had then
a reputation somewhat akin to Hounslow Heath.
Dulwich Wood was the halting-place for gipsies;
and highwaymen and footpads abounded in the
locality."

Dulwich has long been a favourite resort for the
working men of London, for the purpose of holding
their annual gatherings at one or other of its

taverns, the chief of which are the "Greyhound,"
the " Half Moon," and the " Crown." Tlie
" Crown " has been an " institution " in Dulwich for
upwards of a century and a half; the greater part
of the present house was rebuilt in 1833, and it
was further modernised about twenty years later.
In the garden of the " Half Moon," at the northern
extremity of the village, for many years was to be
seen the old tombstone of Edward Alleyn, the
founder of Dulwich College, and it doubtless
proved advantageous to the landlord in drawing
visitors to his house. It has, however, been
superseded by a new tombstone in the college
chapel. The " Greyhound " is a well-known
hostelry here, and has been held by the same
family for upwards of a century. Here the Dul-
wich Club holds its meetings. This association
was established in 1772, for the purposes of friendly
converse and social cheer among a large body ol
literary gendemen ; and the club has entertained
at its table during its career many distinguished
men, such as Dr. Glennie, Thomas Campbell, Dr.
Babington, Dickens, Thackeray, Mark Lemon, and
others.

Among the residents at Dulwich in recent times
have been several whose names have become
famous. Of these we may mention Mr. Howard
Staunton, who lived at Ivy Cottage, while engaged
in his Shakespearean researches at the college.
Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall, the well-known authors,
at one time lived here. Another noted name in
connection with Dulwich is that of Sir H. Bessemer,
the inventor of a new process in the manufacture
of steel, and whose numerous patents connected
with improvements in machinery have been such
as to have established his reputation as a scientific
and practical engineer of the highest order.

Numerous mansions and seats are scattered
about in the neighbourhood of Dulwich, notably
Casino, on Dulwich Hill ; Sir H. Bessemer's house,
on Denmark Hill ; Woodhall, formerly the resi-
dence of the late Mr. George Grote, the historian
of Greece ; the Hoo, on Sydenham Hill ; and
lastly, the Manor House. Tiiis last-mentioned
edifice is a building of more than ordinary interest,
from the fact that it was once the residence of
Edward Alleyn, the Lord Mayor of London, and
perhaps, at an earlier period, the sinnmcr retreat
of the Abbots of Bermondsey. It was formerly
called Hall Court. "The house, since AUeyn's
time," writes Mr. Blancli, "has undergone sundry
additions and alterations, and at the present time
is in a marvellous condition for so old a building
— a fact which seems to confirm the belief that it
was bnilt before Allevn's time, as the erection of

Dulwich.]

EDWARD ALLEYN.

■97

the old college, which was closely watched by the
founder, began to tumble to pieces soon after his
death. Tlie Manor House had been designed and
built in a very diflerent style. The magnificent
oak staircase, and spacious entrance-hall, and lofty
rooms, are worthy of the majestic actor; and, as
one looks around, the form of its dignified host
is conjured up ; now receiving the poor brethren
and sisters, holding consultations with the master,
warden, and fellows, and anon holding converse
and correspondence with the great men of the
land. Alleyn's life at Dulwich must have been de-
lightful. Possessing ample means— much given to
home comforts and duties, to which he was so
attached that within three months of losing 'his
good sweete harte and loving mouse,' he took
unto himself another partner — regarded by his
neighbours as a man of considerable substance,
and treated in a manner befitting the squire of
the place — having great worldly knowledge, serene
temper, and considerable tact — he made many
friends and few enemies ; and as his journal teems
with payments for sundry bottles of wine when he
went to London to see his friends, it is fair to
assume that his cellar at the Manor House was
well filled, and at the service of his visitors.

" And what more delightful walks could any
mortal have had than those surrounding the fine
old mansion in Alleyn's time ? — when the meadows
were yellow with the crowfoot, flushed with the
sorrel, or purple with clover ; the thornbushes,
white or pink with their blossoms ; the commons,
golden with mellowing fern or glowing with purple
heather ; and deciduous trees contributing their
varied tints to the scene — all this was then a
reality ! Would that it were so now — and to the
same e-xtent ! — and the shade of wood and grove,
and the ramble

" ' O'er many a heath, through many a woodland dun,
Through buried paths, where sleepy twilight dreams
The summer-time away ;'

and the feast of satisfaction as the founder viewed
the progress of his college, at the end of a summer's
stroll — all this must have made life more than
endurable at the Manor House.

" That Alleyn received at his board many dis-
tinguished men of his day is beyond doubt ; but,
strange to relate, no scrap of evidence has yet been
produced in support of the supposition that Shake-
speare ever made pilgrimage to Dulwich. It is, to
say the least of it, an extraordinary circumstance,
that two such prominent characters in the same
profession should not have been brought together
— or rather, that no evidence should be forth-

coming in support of such a natural supposition.
Garrick, Malone, Collier, Ingleby, Staunton, and
other able and industrious workers have toiled
diligently, and hoped unfalteringly, but without
success. And yet Ben Jonson and Michael
Drayton were intimate associates both of Shake-
speare and Alleyn. They were not divided by
disparity of age, for Alleyn was Shakespeare's
junior by only two years, four months, and a week,
and both relinquished the stage, and invested
their earnings in houses and lands, at about the
same time."

From the old Manor House, the home of
Edward Alleyn, it is but an easy transition to pass
to the College, of which he was the founder — •
or, to give it its full title, to " Alleyn's College
of God's Gift." Born in the parish of St.
Botolph, Bishopsgate, in September, 1566, Alleyn
lived to attain extraordinary celebrity as an actor
in an age prolific beyond all others in dramatic
talent. Fuller, in his "Worthies," describes him
as " the Roscius of our age, so acting to the life
that he made any part (especially a majestick one)
to become him." The following epigram, addressed
by Ben Jonson to Edward Allen, will serve to
show the reputation in which the latter was held
among the poets and men of letters of his time :—

"If Rome, so great, and in her wisest age,
Feared not to boast the glories of her stage,
As skilful Roscius and grave .-Esop, men
Yet crowned with honours as with riches then,
Who had no less a trumpet of their name
Than Cicero, whose eveiy breath %\as fame :
How can so gieat example die in me
That, Allen, I should ])ause to publish thee ?
Who both their graces in thyself hast more
Outstript, than they did all that went before ;
And present worth in all dost so contract,
As others speak, but only thou dost act.
Wear this renown. 'Tis just, that who did give
So many poets life, by one should live."

" The connection of the name of Allen (usually
spelt Alleyn, but now printed Allen) with the
munificent endowment of Dulwich College," writes
Mr. Robert Bell, " has eclipsed his reputation as
an actor; but, independently of this high encomium
of Jonson, ample evidence has been traced, not
only of the influentijjl position he held in relation
to the stage, but of his great skill as a player.
He appears to have been the chief manager of
the business of the company for Henslowe, with
whom he was part-proprietor of the Fortune, and
to whose stepdaughter he was married. He
negotiated with authors, and made engagements
with actors, for which he was better qualified, in
some respects, than Henslowe, who, although an

298

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Dulwich.

excellent man of business, was illiterate. There
is reason to believe, also, from certain entries in
Henslowe's diary, that he sometimes helped to
reconstruct, or adapt, pieces for the stage. As an
actor he certainly stood in the first rank, and his
special merits in particular parts are testified by
Nash, Dekker, and Heywood. All the particulars
of his life that are now likely to be recovered have
been collected by Mr. Collier, in the ' Memoir '
of him, and in the ' Alleyn Papers,' published by
the Shakespeare Society."

In 1606 Alleyn had already commenced the
acquisition of property at Dulwich. The most
important of the valuable estates which now
collectively form the endowment of the college
were the lands and lordship of the manor,
purchased in the above-mentioned year from Sir
Francis Calton, to whose ancestor, Thomas Calton,
they had been granted by Henry VIIL upon the
dissolution of the Monastery of Bermondsey. "The
college land," writes Macmillan, " stretches south-
wards from the high ground known as Champion
Hill, Denmark Hill, and Heme Hill, through the
whole length of the intervening valley, and up the
opposite slopes to the summit of Sydenham and
Forest Hills, a length of more than three miles as
the crow flies. The breadth of the estate from
east to west is quite a mile and a half in its widest
part. The village of Dulwich occupies a central
position on the college lands. It lies, as we have
stated above, in the bottom of the valley between
the ridge on which rests the Crystal Palace and
the less lofty ridge midway between Sydenham
Hill and the Thames. It is so shut in by near
hills, or by lofty trees, in all directions, that its
horizon is nowhere more distant than a mile or
two. Visitors constantly remark that when in
Dulwich they are as much in the country as if they
were fifty miles from London ; and yet the village
milestone in front of the college, bearing the
hospitable invitation to wayfarers, ^ Siste, Viator^
records the distance of that spot froin the Treasury,
Whitehall, or from the Standard at Cornhill, to be
only five miles."

In 1 6 13 Alleyn contracted with a certain John
Benson, of Westminster, for the erection of " a
Chappell, a Schoole-house, and twelve Almes-
houses," and in the course of the years 16 16 and
1 61 7 the first members of his foundation were
admitted into the college. But AUeyn's great
work was still far from comijleted. For some
years he was engaged in harassing and apparendy
futile negotiations to obtain a royal patent for
the permanent cstablislmient of his foundation.
It is interesting to observe that the impediments

which Alleyn experienced seem to have proceeded
chiefly from no less eminent a man than the great
Lord Bacon, then Lord Chancellor. In a letter
to the Marquis of Buckingham, dated August i8th,
16 18, Bacon, while he says, with characteristic
point and quaintness, " I like well that Allen
playeth the last act of his life so well," yet pleads
with the king, through Buckingham, for the curtail-
ment of AUeyn's eleemosynary foundation, and the
promotion in preference of endowments for the
encouragement of learning. In spite, however, of
all difticulties, AUeyn's unflinching perseverance
at last prevailed, and on the 21st of June, 1619,
the great seal of England was affixed to letters
patent from James I., giving licence to Edward
Alleyn " to found and establish a college in
Dulwich, to endure and remain for ever, and to be
called ' The College of God's Gift in Dulwich, in
the county of Surrey.' "

Aubrey has recorded an amusing story, which
the reader may believe or not as he thinks best,
that Alleyn was frightened into his generous and
charitable scheme by an apparition of the Prince
of Darkness, in propria persona, among six theatrical
demons in a certain piece in which he was playing.
In the fright thus occa.sioned he was said to have
made a vow, which he redeemed by the founding
of the College of God's Gift.

The college was' formally opened with great
ceremony on the 13th of September, 1619; and
Alleyn had the satisfaction of recording in his
diary : " This day was the fowndacion of the
Colledge finisht ; " and so, in the quaint words of
old Fuller, " He who out-acted others in his life,
out-did himself before his death." Amongst the
distinguished guests on this occasion, of wliom
Alleyn gives a list, we find " the Lord Chancellor
(Lord Bacon), the Lord of Arondell, Lord Ciecell
(Cecil), Sir John Howland, High Shreve (Sheriff),
and Inigo Jones, the king's surveyor." He adds,
"They first herd a Sermond, and after the
instrument of creacion was by me read, and after
an anthem, they went to dinner."

Alleyn survived the opening of his college seven
years, but there is some difficulty in determining
the exact day of his death. On the present tomb-
stone (which is, however, of recent erection) it is
stated to have been November 21st; but docu-
mentary evidence seems to point to Saturday,
November 25th, as the correct date. At all
events, be this as it may, lie affi.xcd his signature
to the draft of his Ortlinanccs and Statutes on
November 2otli, and was buried in the chapel of
his college on November 27th, 1626.

" God's Gift College," thus founded and en-

Dulwich.]

DULWICH COLLEGE.

299

dowed by Edward Alleyn, " to the honour and
glory of Ahiiighty God, and in a thankful
remembrance of His guiftes and blessings bestowed
upon me," consisted of a master and a warden
(both to be of the name of Alleyn), four fellows,
six poor brethren, six poor sisters, and twelve
poor scholars. The almspeople and scholars were
chosen in equal proportions from the four parishes
severally of St. Botolph without Bishopsgate ; St.
Saviour's, Southwark ; St. Luke's, Middlesex ; and
St. Giles's, Camberwell. In the letters patent a
right was reserved to the founder to frame statutes
for the government of the college. Alleyn seems,
however, to have overrated the powers thus vested
in him, and consequently several of his provisions,
after long disputes and litigation, were set aside by
the courts of law.

The most important of the modifications intro-
duced by AUeyn's maturer judgment into his
original scheme, it appears, were those designed
to extend the basis of his educational foundation.
He now ordained that his school should be for
the instruction of eighty boys, consisting of three
distinct classes :—(i) Twelve poor scholars; (2)
children of inhabitants of Dulwich (who were to
be taught freely); and (3) " Towne or Forreign
Schollers," who were to pay "such allowance as
the master and warden should appoint."

Though to some extent the issue and produc-
tion of the stage, Dulwich College never greatly
benefited the members of the dramatic profession.
Alleyn had resolved to found and endow in his
own lifetime an institution of a semi-monastic
character, like the Charterhouse, for the reception :
of aged pensioners, and for the education of orphan I
boys. Macmillan writes : — " The original statutes
and ordinances define the qualifications and duties
of the several members of the college, and regulate
the distribution of the income. They embrace
provisions which have many times proved a fruitful
source of costly litigation. Thus, the second
statute provides for a large addition, under the
designation of six ' chanters,' six assistants in the
government of the college, and thirty out-members,
beyond the personnel authorised by the letters
patent."

In the dietary for the boys is included "a
cup of beere" at breakfast and "beere without
stint " at dinner, " with such increase of diett in
Lent and gawdy days as the surveyor of diett may
think fitt." The beef and mutton for the boys
were to be " sweet and good, their beere well
brewed, and their bread well baked, and made of
clean and sweete wheattcn meal." Their coats were
to be of " good cloth, of sad culler, the boddjs

lined with canvass." A statute fixed twenty-one
years as the maximum term of a lease of any part
of the college property. This restriction hampered
more than any other the development of the college
property, and it was eventually rescinded by the
Dulwich Building Act of 1808.

" Vacancies on the foundation, whether of scholars
or old pensioners, or of fellow or warden," whites
Macmillan, " were to be filled up by the ' drawing
of lots' by two selected candidates. Even the
mastership was to be filled up in the same way, it
at the time of a vacancy there was no warden to
succeed. The manner of drawing the lots is
minutely described in one of the statutes, and the
process continued in force till the re-organisation of
the college in 1857. ' God's Gift ' was written on
one of two equal small rolls of paper ; the other
roll was left blank. Both were placed in a box
and shaken thrice up and down. The elder of the
two selected candidates then took up one roll, the
younger took the other. The fortunate drawer of
the God's Gift roll carried the prize. The founder's
preference for the four parishes from which the
poor scholars and brethren and sisters should be
selected was based on his perception of the
doctrine that property has its duties as well as its
rights. As we have already seen, he owned
theatres and houses in St. Saviour's and St. Luke's ;
his patrimonial estate was in St. Botolph's ; and he
had acquired by purchase the whole lordship of
Dulwich, in the parish of Camberwell."

In spite of Fuller's declaration that " no hospital
is tyed with better or stricter laws, that it may not
sagg (swerve) from the intention of the founder,"
there can be little doubt that the want of elasticity
in its original constitution prevented, for more than
two centuries, any healthy development of the
college, and thus effectually frustrated the true
"intentions" of Edward Alleyn. Some partial
attempts were made under injunctions of several
Archbishops of Canterbury, as visitors of Dulwich
College, to extend the educational benefits of the
foundation ; but litde was really effected until the
passing of the Act of Parliament in 1857, under
the provisions of which the college is now ad-
ministered.

" The founder's scheme," observes the writer in
Macmillan above quoted, "too rigid and inelastic to
sustain the shock of modern notions, had long
ceased to be seriously defended, even by those
who dispensed its gifts and luxuriated in its most
substantial rewards. Hampered by the fixity of
inflexible statutes, embarrassed by riches which it
could not spend without shame, and which in-
vited incessant onslaught from the four interested

306

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[l!}ulwlch.

parishes, Alleyn's College succumbed on the last
day of 1857 to public opinion, released its members
from monastic rule, sent them forth well pensioned
into the outer world, and opened its gates next
day to its new rulers."

By the Act of Parliament, passed in 1857,
Alleyn's foundation was completely re-constituted.
The government of the college is now vested in
nineteen governors, of whom eleven are nominated

into four portions, of which three are assigned to
the educational and one to the eleemosynary
branch. The educational foundation comprises
two distinct schools — the " upper school " and the
"lower school." In the "upper school" liberal
provision is made for the endowment of exhibitions,
tenable either at one of the English Universities, or
by a student of any learned or scientific profession
or of the fine arts. Sundry scholarships of ^20 a

DUI-WICH COLLEGE IN I79O.

by the Court of Chancery, the rest being elected
by the four parishes to which special privileges
were attached by the terms of the original founda-
tion. The officers of administration are a " Master
of the College " (whose office, however, is no longer
restricted to a person of the founder's name), a
Chajjlain, an Under-Master of the Upper School, a
Master of the Lower School, a Receiver, and a
Clerk, together with such Assistant-Masters, Pro-
fessors, and Lecturers as may be reijuired to ensure
thorough efficiency to the educational department.

The revenue of the college, which at the time of
the founder's death was ;^8oo a year, now amounts
to more than ^18,000. The surjjlus revenue (after
provision has been made for tlic maintenance of
the fabric, and of the chapel and library) is divided

I year, tenable in the school, were likewise estab-
lished in 1S70, under authority of the Charity Com-
missioners. The " lower school " is described as
being for the instruction and benefit of the children
of the industrial and poorer classes resident in any
of the four parishes. It is a separate school, and
is entirely distinct in its conduct and arrangements
from the "upper school." Provision is made for
the establishment in the "lower school " of scholar-
ships and "gratuities" to be awarded to deserving
boys, for the puqwse of advancing them in the
world.

The old college, though the central attraction of
the village, has but limited j)retensions to archi-
tectural merit. It lias been thought by some topo-
graphers that it was built by liie famous Inigo

Duhvicli.l

DULWiCH COLLEGE.

sot

Jones, but it is scarcely probable that so good an
architect could have been employed upon it, as we
find that the tower fell down in 1638; moreover,
the specification fijr Benson's erection is still pre-
served, with memoranda showing payments made
to him as the work progressed. The fall of the
tower so injured the revenues of the college, as to
occasion its being suspended for six months, during
which time the master and fellows received no

the short power of his son Richard, the lands and
goods of the college were taken away, and its rights
set aside ; but at the Restoration these were reco-
vered, and have since remained secure.

The old college buildings are spacious, having
regard to the limited numbers for whom they were
built, and comprise a chapel, dining-hall, parlour,
library, school-room, kitchen, and appurtenances.
They occupy three sides of a square. The entrance-

DULWICH LULLtGt IN 1 75O.

salary, but the poor people and scholars had two
shillings a week each. Not long after this another
portion of the building fell down; and, in 1703,
the porch and other parts followed. Frequent
repairs were accordingly made, which were marked
by dates in different parts of the old building.

Dulwich College suffered its full share of the
havoc committed by fanatics in the Civil Wars.
Jt was turned into quarters for a company of
loldiers of Fairfax's army, who, it is said, took up
the leaden coffins in the chapel, and melted them
into bullets. The fellows of the college were in
arms for the king ; in consequence of which they
were deprived of their fellowships, and a school-
master and usher were appointed in their stead.
During the government of Oliver Cromwell, and
266

gates are of curiously wrought iron, surmounted
with the founder's arms, crest, and the motto,
"God's Gift." These lead into an outer court or
green. The old chapel, a very plain structure, has
long served as a chapel of ease, for this village, to
the church of Camberwell. Although built for the
college, it is frequented by the inhabitants also, and
was long ago enlarged for their accommodation.
The font is inscribed with a palindrome, in which
the sequence of the letters is the same backwards
as forwards —

(Wash sin, not the face only.)

In the chancel is a marble slab, marking the tomb
of Edward Alleyn, the founder.

A curious collection of pictures and portraits,

302

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

(Dulwich.

more remarkable, however, with a few exceptions,
for their historical associations than for any artistic
excellence, was bequeathed sixty years after the
founder's time by the grandson of his confrere,
Cartwright. In this collection (including a few left
by Alleyn) are striking and characteristic portraits of
the founder himself; one of Frobisher, the scourge
of the Spaniards in the old Armada daj's ; Michael
Drayton, the poet, who, with Ben Jonson, was a
guest at Shakespeare's table at that last "merry
meeting," a few days before his death ; and also
of many players who trod the same stage and
shared the same social gatherings with Shakespeare
and Alleyn, such as Burbage, Nathaniel Field,
Sly, Bond, Perkins, and Cartwright. These pic-
tures were formerly hung in the corridors and
staircases of the old college, but are now trans-
ferred to the new buildings. In 1840 Mr. J. O.
Halliwell e.xhibited before the Society of Anti-
quaries a copy of a pen-and-ink drawing from the
back of a letter in Dulwich College, and supposed
to be a portrait of Shakespeare, by Henslowe,
to whom the letter is addressed. The college, as
might have been expected, was particularly rich
in old plays ; these were collected by Henslowe,
Alleyn, and Cartwright, and were treasured here
until Garrick acquired them from the then master,
warden, and fellows, for the inadequate recompense
of a parcel of new books. The collection passed,
on Garrick's decease, to the British Museum.

The pictures mentioned above are in no way
connected with those belonging to the Dulwich
College Picture Gallery, which is situated at die
south-west corner of the old buildings. The
gallery was built from the designs and under the
direction of Sir John Soane, and was first opened
to the public in the year 1817. The history of the
collection is, in many ways, a rcm.irkable one. It
owes its foundation to " a noble trio of benefactors."
Towards the close of the last century there was
living in London, and jilying there an active trade
in pictures of the highest class, one Noel Joseph
Desenfans, who is considered to have been a
keen critic of art, and a no less shrewd judge of a
bargain. He was a native of Douai, in France,
but had settled in London first of all as a teacher
of languages. His taste for art, however, and the
advantageous sale of a "Claude" in his possession
to George III. for 1,000 guineas, induced Iiim to
devote himself entirely to tlie more lucrative em-
ployment of a picture-dealer. In course of time
he was commissioned by the unhappy Stanislaus —
then almost in the dying tlirocs of the fated king-
dom of Poland — to ])urchasc ])ictures to form a
National Gallery for Poland. In his negotiations,

Desenfans had been constantly aided by his friend
Sir Francis Bourgeois, R.A. On the overthrow of
the Polish kingdom, Desenfans offered his pictures
to the Czar, Paul I. of Russia, but without success ;
and in the end it became the nucleus of the Dul-
wich Gallery. Desenfans spent the last few years
of his life at the house of Sir Francis Bourgeois, ia
Charlotte Street, Portland Place, and on his death,
in 1S07, bequeathed to him the whole of his large
and valuable collection of pictures. Bourgeois,
like Desenfans, had no children to claim inheritance
in it, and he resolved to carry out what appears to
have been the desire also of his friend, and to place
their joint collection of pictures in the custody of
some public body for the encouragement of the
study of fine arts. An accidental acquaintance
with one of the fellows of the foundation, we are
told, directed his attention to Dulwich College.
Accordingly, in 181 1, he bequeathed his pictures
" to the master, wardens, and fellows of Dulwich
College in trust for the public use, under the
direction of the Royal Academy." The bequest
was accompanied by a condition tliat a mausoleum
should be contained in the gallery, where his own
remains and those of his two friends, Monsieur
and Madame Desenfans, should be placed. A
separate building attached to the rooms where the
pictures hang was therefore erected for the purpose.
The collection (including four or five pictures which
have been presented subsequently by other donors,
and a few unfinished sketches) consists of upwards
of 370 pictures. It is particularly rich in works
of the Dutch and FlemisJi schools, and contains
examples of the Spanish schools which, it is said, are
not surpassed by any in this country. The pictures
are fully described by Dr. Waagen.* One of the
chief ornaments in tlie gallery is the celebrated
" Madonna " of Murillo. At first the gallery was
opened to the public on Tuesdays only, and some
little difficulty was thrown in the way of free access
to the collection : all intending visitors were obliged
to obtain tickets previously from one or other of
the great London printsellers, who were autliorised
to supply them gratis, and notice was given both
at the gallery and in the catalogue that " without a
ticket no person can be admitted, and no tickets
are given at Dulwich." The limitation to a single
day in the week was not long retained, and since
1858 visitors have been admitted without tickets
or introduction, on the sole condition of entering
their names in the visitors' book.

The new school buildings, now popularly known
as " Dulwich College," are situated about a quarter

" *' An and Artists in KtiKKTrul," vol. ii., pp. 378 — 33g,

Diilwich.7

THE NEW SCHOOLS.

3=3

of a mile south of the old building. They are
in the " Northern Italian style of the thirteenth
century," and were built from the designs of Mr.
Charles Barry. The first stone of the new building
was laid in June, 1866, and in June, 1870, the
edifice was formally opened by the Prince of Wales.
The schools comprise three distinct blocks : viz., a
central building, containing the public and official
rooms, the great hall, the lecture-theatre, library,
&c. ; and two wings, connected with the centre
building by corridors or cloisters — the south wing
being appropriated to the senior section of the
upper school, with the residence of the master of
the college; and the north wing to the junior
section, with the residence of the under-master of
the upper school. The buildings are constructed of
red brick with terra-cotta ornamentation, the front of
the centre building being the most profusely orna-
mented ; the decoration is carried entirely round
the building. For the most part, the ornamentation
is architectural, but a distinctive and characteristic
feature is a series of heads, in very high relief,
from concave shields, of the principal poets, his-
torians, orators, philosophers, &c., of Greece, Rome,
Italy, Germany, and England — the names of each
being legibly inscribed in the hollow of the shield.
The cost of the new schools was about ;^roo,ooo ;
the building provides accommodation for between
600 and 700 boys. The college stands in an area
of forty-five acres, of which about thirty acres have
been appropriated to the schools and playground.
The lower school is at present located in the old
buildings of the college.

A new scheme for the government of the school
was projected by the Charity Commissioners in
1879. Dr. Carver, under whom the school was
raised to its high position, retired from the head-
mastership in 1882.

There can be no doubt that the art-schools of
the college owe much of their remarkable success
to their association with the splendid collection of
pictures forming the Duhvich Gallery. It is at
least certain that the study of art has been carried
much farther and to higher perfection at Dulwich
than at any other public school in the kingdom.
On the annual " speech day," when the distribution
of prizes takes place, dramatic performances are
given by the boys in the great hall. Since its new
birth, Dulwich College has started on an era of
educational advancement ; and the extraordinary
increase in the number of boys, and tJie numerous
honours obtained by them in almost every competi-
tion open to our public schaols, speak eloquently
of the great need which e.xisted in Dulwich of
increased educational facilities.

In a small brochure, entitled "AUeyn's College
of God's Gift at Dulwich," issued at the opening of
the new schools in 1870, the writer concludes:
" Thus, after many struggles and difficulties, and a
long period of lethargy more fruitless still, Dulwich
College has started at length into fresh and vigorous
life, with powers of influence and means of useful-
ness which few foundations can rival, and with well-
founded hopes for the future which far surpass
the utmost expectations of its pious and munifi-
cent founder."

CHAPTER XXIII.
SYDENHAM, NORWOOD, AND STREATHAM.

** Hinc . . . dominos videre colles
Et totam licet ^estimate Romam," — Marital.

Situation of Sydenham— Its Rapid Growth as a Place of Residence— Sydenham Wells— The Poet Campbell— Death of Thomas Dermody—
Thomas Hill— Churches at Sydenham— Rockhill— Sir Joseph Paxton— The Crystal Palace— Anerley—Nonvood— The Home of the Gipsies
—Knight's Hill— Beulah Spa— North Surrey District Schools— The Catholic Female Orphanage— The Jews' Hospital— Norwood Cemetery
—The Royal Normal College and Academy of Music for the Blind— Death of the Earl of Dudley— Streathair.— Mineral Springs— Anecdote
of Lord Thurlow— The Residence of Mrs. Thrale at Streatham— The Magdalen Hospital.

along by the railway several stately villas have
been called into being by the increased facilities
of transit thus afforded, and the acknowledged
salubrity of the air." Since this was written, the
air remains acknowledged as salubrious as ever ;
but bricks and mortar have increased, and there
are now several lines of railway running through
the district, and Sydenham has become a place
of great resort.

Of old Sydenham was known only as a "genteel

" Nothing," writes Mr. Laman Blanchard, in " A
Guide to the Country round London," "can be
more charmingly sylvan, or less suggestive of the
approximate City, than the walk across the hill to
Sydenham, which reveals a varied and expansive
prospect over Kent as we approach its precincts.
The town lies in a hollow, and has a number of
opulent residents, whose elegant mansions con-
tribute to diversify the scene. On the common
has recently been built a handsome church, and

304

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Sydenham.

hamlet of Lewisham " — to which parish tlie greater
part of it belongs — famed for its sylvan retreats,
charming prospects, and, as we have stated in the
preceding chapter, for its medicinal springs ; but
after the opening of the Croydon Railway, about
the year 1836, it grew rapidly in favour as a place
of residence, and still more rapidly after the
opening of the Crystal Palace, on the summit of
the hill, in 1854. There have now sprung into
existence long lines of villas, detached and semi-
detached cottages, terraces, so-called parks, and
streets.

It was about the middle of the seventeenth
century that the mineral waters were discovered on
Sydenham Common ; and they were occasionally
resorted to down to comparatively recent times.
Evelyn, after visiting Dulwich College, September
2nd, 1675, "came back [to Deptford] by certain
medicinal spa waters, at a place called Sydnam
Wells, in Lewishan# parish, much frequented in
summer." The waters, according to one authority,
were "of a mild cathartic quality, nearly resembling
those of Epsom ; " another writes, that they formed
" a purging spring, which has performed great cures
in scrofulous, scorbutic, paralytic, and other stubborn
diseases ; " whilst a third asserts that the waters
are " a certain cure for every ill to wliich humanity
is heir." Their popularity waned with that of the
other English medicinal waters, but the Wells
House continued to attract as a place of summer
entertainment, and it served for some time as the
head-quarters of the St. George's Bowmen, till the
enclosure of Sydenham Common put an end to
their archery practice. The Church of St. Philip,
in Wells Road, built in 1865-6, covers the site of
the wells ; it is a neat cruciform structure, with
apsidal chancel, and was built from the designs
of Mr. Edwin Nash. Mr. James Thorne, in his
" Handbook of the Environs of London," tells us
there is still standing a cottage in which, according
to local tradition, George HL once stayed the best
part of a day, wiiilst he drank of the waters — an
escort of the Life Guards forming a cordon around
the cottage.

Sydenham is of too modern a growth to Iiave a
history ; but there are literary associations con-
nected witli the place, for " Gertrude of Wyoming "
was written there, and its author, the jioet Camp-
bell, is almost the only " eminent resident " of
the place. His house was on Peak Hill, near
Sydenham Station, and, it is said, remains un-
altered ; but the gardens upon which it looked
j.re gone. Of Campbell, Cyrus Redding writes : —
"His mode of life was mostly uniform with that
which he afterwards followed in London when he

made it his constant residence. He rose not
very early, breakfasted, studied for an hour or two,
dined a couple or three hours after noon, and then
made calls in the village, oftentimes remaining for
an hour or more at the house of a maiden lady, of
whose conversation he was remarkably fond. He
would return home to tea, and then retire again to
his study, often until a late hour, sometimes even
to an early one." Here, as he wrote after leaving
it, the poet spent his happiest years. He came to
live here in 1804, shortly after the publication ol
the " Pleasures of Hope." The following letter,
which Campbell wrote to his publisher, Archibald
Constable, November 10, 1804, may be of interest
here : — " I find myself obliged to remove a few
months sooner than I expected to a new house, of
which I have taken a lease for twenty-one years.
The trouble of tliis migration is very serious. . . .
I have ventured, on the faith of your support, to
purchase the fi.xtures of a very excellent house,
and about ^100 worth of furniture, which, being
sold along with the fixtures, I get at the broker's
appraisement, />., half the prime cost. . . . If you
come to London, and drink to the health of Auld
Reekie over my new mahogany table — if you take
a walk round my garden and see my braw house,
my court-yard, hens, geese, and turkeys, or view
the lovely country in my neighbourhood — you will
think this fixture and furniture money well bestowed.
I shall, indeed, be nobly settled, and the devil is
in it if I don't work as nobly for it."

Soon after, in 1805, Horner wrote as follows : —
"This morning I returned from a visit to our poet
Campbell. He has fixed himself in a small house
upon Sydenham Common, where he labours hard,
and is perfectly happy with his wife and child. I
have seldom seen so strong an argument from
experiment in favour of matrimony, as the change
has operated on the general tone of his temper
and morals." Doubtless the poet was perfectly
happy when he got away from the excitement of
the City, and settled at Sydenham.

The annual rental of Campbell's house was forty
guineas. It consists of six rooms, two on each
floor, the attic or upper storey of which was con-
verted into a private study. From this elevation
Campbell, however, was often compelled to descend
during the summer months for change of air to the
parlour; for in the upper study he felt, to use his
own words, as if enclosed within a hotly seasoned
pic. A small garden behind the house, with the
usual domestic offices at one end, completed the
habitation, and furnished all the conveniences to
which either the poet or his amiable wife aspired.
" Externally, the new situation iuid much," writes

Sydenham.7

THE POET CAMPBELL.

305

Dr. Beattie, " to soothe and interest a poetical
mind. From the south a narrow lane, lined with
hedgerows and passing through a little dell watered
by a rivulet, leads to the house, from the windows
of which the eye wanders over an extensive prospect
of undulating villas, park-like enclosures, hamlets,
and picturesque villas shaded with fine ornamental
timber, with here and there some village spire
shooting up through the forest, refiecting the light
on its vane, or breaking the stillness with the
chime of its merry bells. Ramifying in all direc-
tions he had shady walks where he was safe from
all intrusion but that of the Muses, enabling him
to combine healthful exercise with profitable medi-
tation. During his leisure hours in summer, as
he has sweetly sung, he had a charming variety

of—

" ' Spring green lanes,
With all the dazzling field-flowers in their prime,
And gardens haunted by the nightingale's
Long trills, and gushing ecstacies of song.' "

It was while at Sydenham that the idea was
started of a poets' club. Let us give Campbell's
account of the affair. "One day," he writes —
"and how can it fail to be memorable to me
when Moore has commemorated it ? — Rogers and
Moore came down to Sydenham pretty early in
the forenoon, and stopped to dine with me. We
talked of founding a poets' club, and set about
electing the members — not by ballot, but vizui voa.
The scheme failed, I scarcely know how ; but this
I know, that a week or two afterwards I met with
Mr. Perry, of the Morning Chronicle, who asked
me how our poets' club was going on. I said, ' I
don't know. We have some difficulty in giving it
a name. We thought of calling ourselves " The
Bees." ' ' Oh ! ' said Perry, ' that is a little different
from the common report, for they say you are to
be called " The Wasps." ' I was so stung with this
waspish retort, that I thought no more of the
poets' club."

At Campbell's house there were pleasant dinners,
the guests including Byron, Rogers, Moore, Cyrus
Redding, and the lesser wits of the day, including
Thomas Hill, the original " Paul Pry," who lived
close by. Lady Charlotte Campbell, daughter of
the Duke of Argyll, a poetess, and lover of learning,
became the poet's neighbour at Sydenham. She
introduced her clansman to that literary coterie
which frequented the salons of the Princess of
Wales at Blackheath.* Another lady who was
living at Sydenham at the time Campbell was there,
was Mrs. AUsop, a daughter of Mrs. Jordan, whom

* See p. 230, ante.

Campbell was the means of bringing out on the
stage.

Campbell resided here about sixteen years, and
during this period wrote " Gertrude of Wyoming,"
"O'Connor's Child," and "The Battle of the
Baltic ; " but in course of time he gave up his
" noble " work for magazine management, editing,
and hack writing, which perhaps redounded but
little to his credit. When he undertook the editor,
ship of the New Monthly Magazine he gave up his
Sydenham house, and removed to London.

Campbell's convivialities, it seems, were not con-
fined to his house. Sir Charles Bell, in one of his
" letters," describes a visit he paid to the poet here,
and how, after spending the evening in-doors, he
and Campbell " rambled down the village, and
walked under the delightful trees in the moon-
light;" then "adjourned to the inn, and took an
egg and plotty. Tom got glorious in pleasing
gradation, &c. . . .His wife received him
at home, not drunk, but in excellent spirits. After
breakfast, we wandered over the forest ; not a soul
to be seen in all Norwood."

Two years before Campbell settled at Sydenham,
a more unfortunate poet, Thomas Dermody, died
there (July 15, 1802), as we have already stated
in our account of Lewisham Church,t in abject
misery, in a brickmaker's hut, at Perry Slough, now
called Perry Vale, on the opposite side of the rail-
way. The house has long since been removed.

Thomas Hill, whom we have mentioned above,
was a well-known man in his day and generation.
He was an eccentric drysalter in the City, who,
gathering around him Horace and James Smith,
John and Leigh Hunt, George Colman, Campbell
Theodore Hook, Barnes, Mathews, Redding, and
a knot of literary acquaintances, set up in the days
of the Regency as a sort of City Maecenas. He
was something of an antiquary ; knew everybody,
and apparently everything about everybody; and
was always bustling about the offices of the news-
papers and magazines. Poole, the author of " Paul
Pry," is said to have drawn that character from
him. He was a sort of walking chronicle, espe-
cially where literary men and newspapers were
concerned. It was once said of him that if he
stood at Charing Cross at noonday, he would tell
the name and business of everybody that passed
Northumberland House. Mathews always declared
" Tom Hill," as he was called by all who loved
him, one of the oldest men he knew ; and a writer
in the " Railway Anecdote Book" thus speaks of
him :— " Mr. Hill was the Hull of his friend Mr.

t See p. 245, aiitt.

306

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

(Sydenham.

Theodore Hook's clever novel of ' Gilbert Gurney,'
beyond comparison the best book of its class pro-
duced in our time. It is also related that Hill
furnished Mr. Poole with the original of his hu-
morous character of ' Paul Pry;' but this state-
ment is very doubtful, for ' Paul Pry,' if we mistake
not, is of French extraction. It is, however, more
certain that ' Pooh, pooh ! ' and other habitual ex-
pressions of Mr. Hill's, may have been introduced

Hill established the Monthly Mirror, which
brought him much into connection with dramatic
poets, actors, and managers. To this periodical
Kirke White became a contributor ; and this en-
couragement induced him, about the close of the
year 1802, to commit a little volume of poetry to
the press. Southey, in his "Life of Kirke White,"
refers to Mr. Hill as possessing one of the most
copious collections of English poetry in existence.

SVLiKNHAM WELLS IN 1 7 SU

by Mr. Poole into the character. Mr. Hill, it may
here be added, had the entree to both Houses of
Parliament, the theatres, and almost all places of
public resort. He was to be met with at the
private view of the Royal Academy, and every
kind of exhibition. So especially was he favoured,
that it was recorded by a wag that, when asked
whether he had seen the new comet, he replied,
'Pooh, pooh! I was present at the private view!'
Mr. Hill, to borrow from Mr. Hook's portrait,
' liappened to know everything that was going for-
ward in all circles— mercantile, iiolitical, fashionable,
literary, or theatrical ; in addition to all m.ittcrs
connected with military and naval affairs, agricul-
ture, finance, art, and science — everything came
alike to him.' "

While living at Sydenham, Mr. Hill received his
numerous visitors in magnificent style. On one
occasion some of the party had to walk to Dulwicb
to get a conveyance to town. Campbell accom-
panied his friends. When they separated it was
with hats off and three boisterous cheers, "Campbell
snatching off his hat," says Cyrus Redding, " not
wisely, but too well, pulled off his wig with it, and
then, to enhance the merriment ujion the occasion,
flung both u]) in the air amidst unbridled laughter."
Mr. Adolphus was intimate with Hill for upwards
of forty years, and spoke of him as looking fresh
and youthful to tlie last. With reference to his
cottage at Sydenham, Mr. Adolphus remarks : " I
have dined there with Campbell, James Smith, Jack
Johnstone, Mathews, and other celebrities. Bur-

Sydenham.)

THOMAS HILL.

■Ko^

gundy and champagne were given in abundance,
and at that time, owing to the state of the war, they
were of enormous price — I beheve a guinea a
bottle." As was to be expected, Hill's affairs soon
became deranged, and he was made a bankrupt.
His line library w^as not sold by auction, but by
private contract to Messrs. Longman and Co., and
formed the ground-work of that collection of which
they published a catalogue, under the title of

But news grew scant ; what should he do,
But die for want of something new,
Who'd lived to eighty-one the chorus
Of others businesses and stories?
Yet truth to tell they 're many worse,
■Whose histories I might rehearse.
The worst of him I can recite,
I've told — so Thomas Hill, good night !

In the early part of the present century, in
Sydenham and its environs, eight hundred acres

SITE OF THE CRYSTAL PALACE IN 1652.

"Bibliotheca Poetica Anglicana." He died in
chambers in the Adelphi, at the age of eighty-one,
in the year 1840, leaving a fortune of ^15,000 to a
stray friend who used to dine with him on Sundays
at Hampstead. The following burlesque epitaph
on him is from the pen of Cyrus Redding : — -

Thomas Hill; Obiit 1S40.

Here at last, taciturn and still.

Lies babbling, prying Thomas Hill.

Marvellous his power in explanations

Of others' business or vocations ;

Retailing all he ever knew.

Or knew not — whether false or true,

Happy to give it an addition

That beat Munchausen competition.

With ruddy cheek, and spring-tide eye,

Few thought that he could ever die ;

of common-land were enclosed ; and now nearly
the whole has been formed into streets, so that this
once beautiful rural district is rapidly becoming an
integral part of the great metropolis, Sydenham
chapelry alone having a population of more than
34,000, and the place altogether comprises some
half-dozen ecclesiastical districts. The Church of
St. Bartholomew, on what was once Sydenham
Common, is a roomy and commodious Gothic
edifice, and was erected in 1830. Christ Church,
near the Forest Hill railway station, was conse-
crated in 1855, but was completed much later
by the erection of a tower and chancel ; it is in the
Early Decorated style of architecture. Holy Trinity
Church, Sydenham Park, is of similar architecture,
and was built in 1865. St. Saviour's, on Brockley

3o8

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Sydenham,

Hill, at the north extremity of Sydenham, is a large
Decorated building, and was consecrated in 1866.
St. Michael and All Angels', Lower Sydenham,
serves as a chapel of ease to St. Bartholomew's.
Of St. Philip's, in Wells Road, we have already
spoken. Besides these places of worship, there are
Free, Presbyterian, Wesleyan, and other chapels ;
many schools, both public and private; public
halls, library and working men's institutes, local
societies, and two weekly newspapers.

The most important feature in connection with
Sydenham is the Crystal Palace ; we say in con-
nection with, for, though not actually in Sydenham —
the greater part being said to be in Lambeth parish
— it is always considered to belong to it. It occu-
pies the high ground to the south-west of Sydenham.
The land over which stretch the palace grounds —
nearly three hundred acres in extent — falls rapidly
away to the east, and from the terrace in front of
the palace a prospect is obtained of surpassing
beauty, over richly-wooded and undulating plains,
to the distant hills of Kent and Surrey. A little
to the north of the palace, and overlooking the
grounds, stands Rockhill, from 1852 till his death
the residence of Sir Joseph Paxton, the designer of
the Crystal Palace, the Great Exhibition building
of 1851, of Chatsworth conservatory, &c.

Sir Joseph Paxton, who was originally introduced
to the Duke of Devonshire by his Grace's secretary,
Mr. Ridgway, of May Fair, came into his service
as a gardener's lad at fourteen shillings a week.
He soon showed, however, talents wliich led to
his advancement, and laid out the gardens at Chats-
worth in a manner worthy of "Capability" Brown*
himself As Mr. Mark Boyd tells us in his " Social
Gleanings," " Great was Mr. Ridgway's astonishment
when, some years afterwards, he sat down to dinner
at Chiswick with the duke and the other members
of the family, and found himself seated by the side
of the former gardener's lad, they being the only
guests who were not Cavendishes or Leveson-
Gowers." Sir Joseph Paxton designed the Crystal
Palace on the plan of a large conservatory which
he had erected at Chatsworth, and had the satis-
faction of seeing his principles of construction
adopted extensively in railway stations and other
large structures before his death. He sat for some
years as M.P. for Coventry, through the duke's
interest, and died at his house at Sydenham in
1865.

As wc have already statcd,t it was in 1S52 that
the idea of erecting the Crystal Palace near Syden-
ham first originated. Wiicn the Government de-

•Scc Vol. v., p. 154.

t Sec Vol. v., p. 38.

clined to purchase the Great Exhibition building
in Hyde Park, a few enterprising gendemen came
forward and rescued it from destruction. They
purchased it, and the materials were removed to
Sydenham, where it was re-erected, but with many
modifications of form and detail. The original pro-
jectors had no difficulty in securing the aid of Sir
Joseph Paxton as director of the park and gardens,
which it was intended to unite with the palace ; of
Mr. Owen Jones and Mr. Digby Wyatt, as directors
of the fine art department and of the decorations ;
and of Mr. Charles Wild, the engineer of the old
building, as the engineer for the new one. Sir
Charles Fox and Mr. Henderson also were engaged
as contractors, and they undertook to take down,
remove, and re-erect the structure for ^120,000.
The " Crystal Palace Company " was then an-
nounced, with a capital of ;^50o,ooo, in 100,000
shares of jQ<^ each. The capital, however, was
subsequently increased to _;^i, 000,000, and before
the works in the building and grounds were con-
cluded this amount was considerably increased.
Two years were spent in extensive and expensive
preparations. The first column of the main struc-
ture was raised on the 5th of August, 1852. Messrs.
Owen Jones and Digby Wyatt were charged with
a mission to the Continent, in order to procure
examples of the principal works of art in Europe.
England was also searched for copies of artistic
antiquities ; and Sir Joseph Paxton commencetl
his own operations by securing for the compan)-
the extensive and celebrated collection of palms
and other plants which it had taken the Messrs.
Loddige, of Hackney,+ a century to collect. The
building was formally opened on the loth of June,
1854, the Queen, the Prince Consort, the King of
Portugal, and other distinguished personages, being
present at the ceremony.

In several points the Crystal Palace at Sydenham
differs from its predecessor in Hyde Park. There
are three transepts instead of one, and the roof of
the nave is arched instead of flat, being thus raised
forty-four feet higher than the old nave. There
arc many otlier differences between the appearance
of the old and new Crystal Palaces, but these
are among the chief As before, iron and glass
are almost the only materials used in the building.
The larger portion of the northern wing, including
the tropical department and the Assyrian Court,
was destroyed by fire on the 30th of December,
1866, and has been only partially rebuilt since.

Originally the main building was 1,608 feet long,
while its prototype was 1,851 feet; but there are

} Sec Vol. v.. D. ■iii.

Sydenham!

THE CRYSTAL PALACE.

309

wings and a colonnade in the new building, which
make a considerable addition in the total length.
These wings e-xtend into, and, as it were, enclose
the Italian garden. The nave and north and south
transepts are 72 feet wide and 104 feet high —
just the height of the transept in the Hyde Park
building. The central transept is the feature of
the new building. It is 384 feet long (the north
and south transepts being 336), 120 feet wide, and
168 feet from the floor to the top of the ventilator
—its total height, from the garden front, being
208 feet, or six feet higher than the Monument.
Another difference in the construction of this
building is that there is a basement storey, which
was long known by the appellation of ".Sir Joseph
Paxton's Tunnel." This basement storey, or tunnel,
contains apparatus for warming the building by
rows of furnaces and boilers, and an iron network
forming fifty miles of steam-pipes. There are
about thirty boilers, arranged in pairs along the
tunnel at regular distances. At each extremity of
the building are lofty towers. The west front of
the palace abuts upon a broad roadway, formed
out of Dulwich Wood ; it is a light and airy facade,
resembling that of the north side of the Crystal
Palace in Hyde Park, except that it presents three
arched transepts to the eye instead of only one.
Attractive as this front of the palace is, that to the
east, as seen from the gardens, is much more so.
Grace and elegance are certainly combined in the
outline ; and when the vast edifice reflects the
rays of the sun, it sends forth milhons of corusca-
tions, and forms an object of surpassing brilliance.
The following lines, by a popular poet, appeared
shortly after the completion of the building : —

" But yesterday a naked sod,

And see— 'tis done !
As though 'twere by a wizard's rod,
A blazing arch of lucid ylass
Leaps like a fountain from the grass,
To meet the sun.

" K quiet green, but few days since,
With cattle browsing in the shade,
And lo ! long lines of bright arcade
In order raised ;
A palace, as for fairy prince,
A rare pavilion, such as man
Saw never since mankind began.
Is built and glazed ! "

Thackeray has celebrated the building in a more
comic fashion : — -

" With ganial foire,

Thransfuse me loyre.
Ye sacred nympths of Pindus ;

The whoile I sing

That wondthrous thing.
The Palace made o' windows.

" Say, Paxton, truth,

Thou wondthrous youth.
What stroke of art celestial,

What power was lint

You to invint
This combination cristial?" *

In the interior there is a long and lofty nave,
intersected at regular distances and at right angles
by three transepts, and with aisles on each side,
occupied by various fine art, industrial, and archi-
tectural courts, surrounded by galleries supported
on light, airy, and apparently fragile columns, with
an arched roof of glass, extending from north to
south upwards of 1,000 feet. There are two gal-
leries— in the central transept three ; the first is
gained from the ground by eight flights of steps,
one at each end of the north and south transepts,
and two at each end of the centre transept ; they
are about twenty-three feet high. This gallery is
twenty-four feet wide ; and the landing-places, in
the two end transepts, seventy-two feet long and
twenty-four feet wide, form platforms from which
excellent views of the nave are obtained. The
gallery of the central transept crosses the nave at
an elevation of 100 feet; and is gained by spiral
staircases at each end of the transept. This gal-
lery, as well as the second, is used only as a pro-
menade. The passage along the latter is carried
through a series of ring or " bull's-eye " girders,
seven feet in diameter, resting upon the columns
which project into the nave. There is a very fine
view of the country from this gallery ; and looking
forward through the long vista of circular girders,
diminishing gradually in the distant perspective,
produces a very singular but fine effect. The view
of the park and grounds from the third gallery will
well repay the visitor for the trouble of ascent.
"Round the upper gallery," Mr. Phillips informs
us in his " Guide," " at the very summit of the
nave and transepts, as well as round the ground-
floor of the building, are placed louvres, or venti-
lators, made of galvanised iron. By opening or
closing these louvres, a service readily performed,
the temperature of the Crystal Palace is so regu-
lated, that, on the hottest day of summer, the dry
parching heat mounts to the roof to be dismissed,
whilst a pure and invigorating supply is introduced
at the floor in its place, giving new life to the
thirsty plant, and fresh vigour to man. The cool-
ness thus obtained within the palace will be sought
in vain, on such a summer's day, outside the
edifice." At night the building is very effectively
lighted np from above by the aid of a row of jets

* See '■ Thackeray's Worlis," vol. xi.

3IO

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

(Sydenham.

which run round it, just below the spring of the
arching roof.

It would be impossible to give within the limits
of this work a detailed account of all the varied
attractions of the interior of the building ; and,
indeed, such a task is rendered needless by the
" Guide to the Palace and Park," and the Hand-
books to the various Courts, which are published
by the Crystal Palace Company, and obtainable in
the building. A rough glance at the contents,
therefore, is all that we can here pretend to take.
Commencing at the southern extremity of the
nave, immediately in front of the refreshment
counters, is a Gothic screen, consisting of a centre
and two Avings, in which are placed, in niches,
statues of the kings and queens of England, from
casts of those statues in the new Houses of Par-
liament ; this screen was designed by Mr. Digby
Wyatt. From this spot a view of the whole e.xtent
of the nave is obtained, and a beautiful view it
is. Immediately in front of the spectator is a
large ornamental basin, in which is displayed the
Victoria Regia and other tropical aquatic plants ;
in the centre of the basin stands what has been
not inaptly termed " the world-famed crystal foun-
tain,"* which on the break-up of the Great Exhi-
bition of 185 1 became the property of the directors
of the new Crystal Palace. Beyond this, the eye
rests upon a long vista, varied on each side with
statues, handsome glass cases, displaying various
works of modern art and industry, and trees,
flowers, and plants, of the tropical regions, bloom-
ing in all the brilliance of their native climes ;
whilst suspended from the galleries are ornamental
baskets containing plants.

The Handel Festival Orchestra, which occupies
the western portion of the great central transept,
was originally erected for the first festival in 1857,
and has been since gradually enlarged, until it
reached its present pitch of size and completeness.
Its diameter is double that of the dome of St. i
Paul's. At the festival concerts more than 4,000 :
instrumental and vocal performers are accommo-
dated within its spacious area. The arch which
forms the ceiling of the vast structure — one of the j
largest timber arches yet erected — is of the latest
improvement. The organ was built by Messrs.
Gray and Davison, expressly for the palace ; it had
four rows of keys, and contained seventy-four stojjs
and 4,598 pipes. j

At the eastern end of the transept, facing the !
p-eat orchestra, is the theatre, in which are given
dramatic performances, pantomimes, &c. Close

• Sec Vol. v., p. 38.

by is a concert-room capable of containing a large
number of performers and listeners, and generally
filled on the occasion of the popular concerts given
here on Saturday afternoons.

On either side of the nave, on the floor of the
palace, are the various courts above referred to,
the mere mention of the names of which is suf-
ficient to indicate their nature and character ; they
are the Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Mediaeval, Re-
naissance, Italian, French, Ceramic, Pompeian,
Bohemian, &c. A large portion of the galleries is
devoted to the exhibition and sale of pictures,
forming one of the main centres of attraction in
the building.

Leaving the palace by a flight of granite steps
from the central transept, we reach the "upper
terrace," which extends along the whole base of
the building; it is 1,500 feet long and 50 feet
wide. Fifteen feet lower lies the terrace garden,
reached by six flights of steps, and bounded on the
southern side by a stone balustrade, with numerous
recesses. Besides the magnificent central circular
basin, throwing out a lofty jet d'eati, there are
numerous others of an elliptic shape, profusely
intermingled with statues, vases, richly-coloured
flower-beds, shrubs, and trees, on which the long
shadows of the projecting transepts fall. From
the terrace gardens three flights of stone steps,
their side balustrades adorned in like manner with
statuary, conduct the visitor to a garden fifteen feet
lower.

A central walk, nearly 100 feet in breadth, leads
from the centre of the terrace garden through the
lower garden, where it divides, and, re-uniting on
the other side of a basin, 200 feet m diameter, con-
tinues on through parterres, laid out in a graceful
admixture of the Italian and English styles of orna-
mental gardening.

The extent of the ground in which these foun-
tains are displayed is ingeniously made to appear
greater than it really is, by the skilful mode in
which it has been treated. Broken ground, mounds,
artificially constructed, crowned with forest trees,
and groves of rich evergreen shrubs, forming tor-
tuous alleys of perpetual verdure, and intersecting
each other in the most natural manner, impart the
effect of size and distance to a space that is com-
prised in about two hundred acres. Two "water
temples " and a " rosary " are amongst the most
attractive objects in the gardens ; but unquestion-
ably the most prominent attraction of tiie grounds,
irrespective of their natural beauty, is formed by
the system of waterworks, which, it is said, far
surpass, in their completeness and design, any
other display in the world, including even those of

Sydenham.]

THE FOUNTAINS AND WATERWORKS.

3"

Versailles. The whole system is divided into two
series — the upper and lower. The former com-
prises the six basins in the Italian garden, the
large central basin in the broad walk, and the two
smaller ones on each side of it ; in all, nine foun-
tains. These constitute the display on ordinary
occasions. Beyond and below them is the lower
series, which consist of the two water temples, the
cascades, and the numerous groups of fountains
arranged in the large lower basins. These are
usually known as the "great fountains," and are
played on special and grand occasions only. TJie
two " grand " fountains in the lower grounds are
by far the largest in the world, and impart the
grandest effect to the whole series. The outlines
of their two greatest basins are similar in design,
each being 7 84 feet long, with a diameter of 46S
feet. The central jet in each is 2J inches dia-
meter, and reaches the extraordinary height of
more than 250 feet. Around each central jet is
a column, composed of fifty 2-inch jets. The force
of water which presses on the mouth of these pipes
is equivalent to 262 pounds to the square inch.
When the whole is in operation, 120,000 gallons of
water per minute are poured forth by 11,788 jets;
and in one single complete display, lasting half an
hour, nearly 4,000,000 gallons are consumed. The
artesian well, from which the fountains are sup-
plied with water, is well worthy of notice. It is a
brick shaft, 8J feet in diameter and 247 feet deep.
From this depth an artesian bore descends still
further for 328 feet, making the entire distance
from the surface 578 feet. A supply of water
having been thus obtained, the next operation is to
raise it from the bottom of the hill, where the well
is situate, to a sufficient height to play the fountains.
The pressure required to force the respective jets
of water to heights ranging from 5 to nearly 300
feet is obtained in the following simple manner.
Reservoirs were formed at different levels in the
grounds, the highest of all being situated at the top
of the hill adjoining the north end of the building ;
the second, or intermediate reservoir, was on a
level with the basin of the great central fountain ;
and the lower lake, at the extreme end of the
grounds, formed the lower reservoir. Three pairs
of powerful engines were then erected ; one con-
tiguous to the artesian well ; the second at the
intermediate reservoir ; and a third adjoining the
north end of the building, close to the highest
reservoir. By this system water is pumped by the
lower engine to the intermediate reservoir, and
from thence by another engine to the upper level,
where a third raises it to two enormous tanks,
ererf'=''. nn columns, and to the tanks on the top

of the two high towers, which play the main jets
of the lower fountains. By this arrangement the
water, instead of being wasted, is economised, and
passing backwards and forwards from one reservoir
to the other, is used again and again ; the inter-
mediate reservoir collecting it after a display of the
upper series, and the lowest one forming a similar
receptacle when a display of the large fountains
takes place.
' Passing round the margin of the great fountain
] basin, and crossing the broad central walk, whicli
I divides the two lower basins, the visitor, by ascend-
ing a flight of steps, reaches the grand plateau,
which is an embankment fifty feet wide, and com-
! mands a general view of the lake, containing three
islands, the two largest wholly occupied by life-
; sized models of the gigantic animals of the ancient
' world. It is here that one of the most original
features of the Crystal Palace Company's grand
I plan of instruction has been carried out. There all
the leading features of geology are found displayed,
in so practical and popular a manner, that a child
may discern the characteristic points of that useful
branch of the history of nature.
i The spectator, standing on the upper terrace ol
the plateau, has before him the largest educational
I model ever attem_pted in any part of the world.
It covers several acres, and consists of a display
of nearly all the rocks that constitute the known
portion of the earth's crust, from the old red sand-
stone to the latest tertiary beds of drift and gravel.
Descending by the path, a few paces to the right,
we have a nearer view of the older rocks, imme-
diately facing the rustic bridge, the lowest of
which, the old red sandstone, is seen just above
the water, forming a foundation upon which is
superposed the whole mass of cliff' on the right,
consisting of mountain limestone, mill-stone grit,
bands of ironstone, and beds or seams of coal,
capped by the new red sandstone. The coal-
measures are thus exhibited between their most
evident boundaries, the old red sandstone below,
and the new red sandstone above ; the whole being
re-constructed of several thousand tons of the actual
materials, in exact imitation of the Clay Cross coal-
beds. The series was carefully tabulated by Pro-
fessor Ansted, to ensure its geological accuracy,
according to Sir Joseph Paxton's designs for the
picturesque arrangement of this interesting portion
of the grounds.

On the margin of a lake close by are to be seen
life-like models of the former gigantic inhabitants
of the earth, whose race has long since become
extinct, such as the Iguanodon, the Palseotherium,
the Anoplotherium, and other antediluvian animals,

Sydenham.]

THE CRYSTAL PALACE.

313

with names equally interesting, and in all their
pristine ugliness.

On gala or fete days, or the occasion of any
great festival — as wlien the Odd Fellows, or the
Foresters, or the Licensed Victuallers, or tlie
Temperance organisations, attend en masse — the
number of visitors to the palace is prodigious ;
but, nevertheless, commercially, the place has not
proved so successful as was at first anticipated.

fine air and fun. What Londoners want is ' an
outing.' It is for this that people go to Syden-
ham ; and for this, it must be admitted on all
sides, the most complete provision has now been
made. If one really requires a wonder, there is
the building itself."

We have referred above to tlie accidental fire
by which a portion of the building was destroyed.
This occurred on the 30th of December, 1866;

M.IRGARF.T FINCll's COTTAGE, NORWOOD, IN iSoS.

The undertaking was carried out on too grand a
scale. It was at first assumed that what people
wanted was scientific amusement ; the blunder,
however, was a costly one, for it reduced the worth
of the five-pound shares to a fifth of their nominal '
value, and created a great deal of unpleasant feeling
in the bosoms of a Large class of people who
believed that, in promoting this scheme of popular ;
amusement and instruction, they had made a ;
good investment for themselves. It has been
said, and perhaps truthfully, that "if there is suf-
ficient amusement in the way of fireworks or
fountains, of concerts and drama, of exhibitions
and flower-shows, of painting and statuary, of
machinery in motion — so much the better. But
the main objects are the eating and drinking, and
267

and the larger portion of the northern wing, in-
cluding the tropical department and the Assyrian
Court, was burnt down. An unfortunate chim-
panzee, which had been one of the " lions " of the
palace, perished in the flames. This wing has only
been partially rebuilt, much to the injury of the
symmetry of the edifice. Whatever may have been
the cause of this disastrous fire, it was, at all events,
a curious fact that it occurred on the very day
after a lecture on combustion had been given in
the palace.

Of late years a large library and reading-room
have been added, and lectures on cookery and other
branches of useful education, as well as on art and
science, have been delivered to numerous classes
of students of either se.\. A large aquarium also,.

314

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Norwood.

Stocked with salt-water as well as fresh-water fish,
now forms one of the attractions of the place ; and
and every step is taken by the managers of the
company still further to increase the educational
appliances of the Crystal Palace.

Anerley, which adjoins Sydenham on the south-
east, was at one time noted for its tea-gardens,
which for some years served as an attraction to
the South Londoners. They were opened in or
about the year 1841 by a Mr. Coulston, but do not
appear to have attained to a tithe of the popularity
of old Ranelagh or of Vauxhall, notwithstanding
their swings and "roundabouts," their fireworks, and
their al fresco dancing platforms. After passing
tlirough various hands, they were finally closed
in 1868. A corner of the gardens was taken ofi"
on the formation of the Croydon Railway. The
Croydon Canal, which formerly ran through the
grounds in its course from the Thames at Dept-
ford, has been drained and filled up.

Stretching away from Anerley, towards Mitcham,
Tooting, and Streathara, and lying partly in Croy-
don parish, and partly in the parishes of Battersea,
Lambeth, Streatham, and Camberwell, is Norwood,
which, at no very remote period, was described as
" a village scattered round a large wild common."

In a " History of the Gypsies," published in the
first part of the present century, it is said tliat
Norwood had long been a favourite haunt of that
brotherhood, on account of its remote and rural.
character, though lying so handy for both London
and Croydon. Hither the Londoners of the last
century resorted to have their future lot in life
foretold by the jjalmistry of the " Zingari " folk.

A writer in the Gentleman's Magazine for 1808
observes that " the post they (the gipsies) have
held longest is Norwood, and it is probably the one
they chose for head-quarters when they first
appeared in Britain. Being on a visit in the year
1790 to a friend at Dulwich, curiosity induced me
to visit Norwood ; but I did not find so many
gipsies there as I expected. . . . However, I saw 1
an aged sybil named Sarah Skemp, who from age
and infirmity was unable to go otherwise than upon
all-fours. Her ])rominent and large sinews, bones,
and muscles, were all perceptible beneath her
rigid hide, which resembled in hue the smoke-
dried blanket that partly covered her. If she liad
occupied a mummy-case in a museum she might
have ])assed for a mummy, and as it was, I could
almost have imagined her one, if 1 had not seen
her crawl, and heard her jabber."

Gip.sy Hill, and an inn still called the " Queen
of the Gipsies," comnicmorate the inmate of a
small outhouse who lived on this hill, and who

died here in 1760 — it is said at the age of 109

years. Her name was Margaret Finch, and for
half a century she had lived by telling fortunes in
that rural and credulous neighbourhood. She was
buried in a large square box, as, from her constant
habit of sitting with her chin resting on her knees,
her muscles had become so contracted that at last
she could not alter her position. " This woman,"
observes Mr. Larwood, in his " History of Sign-
boards," " when a girl of seventeen, may have
been one of the dusky gang that pretty Mrs.
Samuel Pepys and her companions went to consult
in August, 1668, as her lord records in his ' Diary '
the same evening, the nth: 'This afternoon my
wife, and Mercer, and Deb went with Felling to
see the gypsies at Lambeth and have their fortunes
told ; but what they did I did not enquire.' " " A
granddaughter of Margaret Finch," Mr. Larwood
adds, " was living in a cottage close by in the
year 1800."

Norwood must really have derived its name from
being the " wood " that lay to the " north " of the
large ecclesiastical town of Croydon ; for it lies
to the south of London. Two centuries ago
Norwood was really a wood and nothing more.
Aubrey, giving an account of Cro)'don at that
period, in his " Perambulation of Surrey," writes :
" In this parish lies the great wood, called Nonvood,
belonging to the see of Canterbury, wherein wiA
an ancient remarkable tree, called Vicar's Oak,
where four parishes meet in a point." These
parishes, doubtless, were Lambeth, Camberwell,
Lewisham, and Croydon.

The wood and the gipsies too have long since
been swept away, and are now known only by
tradition. Among the few mansions of note that
once existed in this neighbourhood, the most con-
spicuous was Knight's Hill, which was built for
Lord Chancellor Thurlow by Henry Holland,
the architect of Carlton House and of old Drury
Lane Theatre, which was burnt down in 1809.
Notwithstanding the splendid views said to be
obtained from the upper windows of the mansion,
it appears that Lord Thurlow never resided in it,
but contented himself with a smaller house, called
Knight's Hill Farm. In Twiss's " Life of Lord
p:idon," it is stated that " Lord Thurlow built a
house in the neighbourhood of London. Now,"
adds the author, "he was first cheated by liis
architect, and then he cheated himself; for the
house cost more than he expected, so he never
would go into it. Very foolish, but so it was. As
he was coming out of the Queen's Dr.iwing-room.
a lady, whom I knew very well, stojtiicd liim, and
asked him wlun lie was guing into liis now house,

Norwood.]

BEULAH SPA.

315

'Madam,' said he, 'the iiueen has just asked nie
that impudent question ; and as I would not tell
her, I will not tell you.' " Mr. Thome, in his
" Environs of London," states that the house and
grounds were reported to have cost ^^30,000.
Both have now disappeared, having, with his
lordship's adjoining manor of Leigham, been
appropriated to Ijuilding purposes.

Another noted place in Upper Norwood, during
the second quarter of the present century, was
Beulah Spa, which was founded on an extensive
scale in 1S31, for the purpose of rendering avail-
able the medicinal properties of a spring strongly
impregnated with sulphate of magnesia. The Spa
had been known to the inhabitants of Norwood
from time immemorial ; but it e.xisted only as a
bubbling spring, to which the rustics resorted for
the cure of trifling maladies, until about the year
1828, when the then proprietor of the surrounding
grounds, some thirty acres in extent, expended
large sums in converting them into a place of
recreation, with charming walks, terraces, and
rustic lodges, a " pump," orchestra, reading-room,
&c., the whole being carried out from the designs
of Mr. Decimus Burton. In its altered state it
was opened for public use in August, 1831 ; and so
popular did it become that no less than three
separate "Guides" to the place were published
between the years 1832 and 1838. It is now
forgotten as a place of resort, and even its
chalybeate spring has passed comparatively out
of memory. The water was a saline purgative,
much resembling the Cheltenham water, and, j
like that of Epsom, owed its medicinal qualities
chiefly to the sulphate of magnesia which was dis-
solved in it.

In 1839 a /I'/t' for the Freemasons' Girls' School
was given here, under the special patronage of the
Queen Dowager. The vocal and instrumental
concert provided for the occasion was of first-rate
order ; Grisi, Persiani, Rubini, Ivanhoff, &c., lend-
ing their assistance on the occasion.

The readers of Thackeray will not have forgotten
the charity /Vi" at Beulah Spa, devised by Lady de
Sudley, on behalf of the "British Washerwoman's
Orphans' Home," wliich figures in Cox's " Diary."

The Spa is thus described by a writer in the
Mt'rrof [or Apn\, 1832 : — "We entered the grounds
at an elegant rustic lodge, where commences a new
carriage-road to Croydon, which winds round the
flank of the hill, and is protected by hanging
woods. The lodge is in the best taste of ornate
rusticity, with the characteristic varieties of gable,
dripstone, portico, bay-window, and embellished
chimney : of the latter there are some specimens

in the best style of our older architects. Passing
the lodge, we descended by a winding path through
the wood to a small lawn or glade, at the highest
point of which is a circular rustic building, used as
a confectionery and reading-room, near which is
the Spa, within a thatched apartment. The spring
rises about fourteen feet, within a circular rock-
work enclosure ; the water is drawn by a contrivance
at once ingenious and novel ; a glass urn-shaped
pail, terminating with a cock of the same material,
and having a stout rim and cross-handle of silver,
is attached to a thick worsted rope, and let down
into the spring by a pulley, when the vessel being
taken up full, the water is drawn off by the cock."
Notwithstanding that the grounds were furnished
with all the appliances for well-to-do water-drinkers,
Beulah Spa enjoyed but a brief run of popularity.
In the end it collapsed, and the site was handed
over to the builders. Some portion of the
grounds, however, have been preserved ; and there
is (or was recently) within them a hydropathic
establishment, where the curative qualities of the
water may be tested.

On the hill overlooking what was once Beulah
Spa, Mr. Sims Reeves has lived for many years.

Norwood is situated on a series of beautiful
valleys and hills, the latter rising, it is said, to the
height of 300 feet above the level of the sea at
low water ; but, like Sydenham, is being rapidly
converted into a region of bricks and mortar. It
possesses eight or nine churches, a large number
of dissenting chapels and mission-houses, capacious
and comfortable hotels, together with liydropathic
and homoeopathic establishments. The Queen's
Hotel at Norwood, close to the Crystal Palace, is
said to be the largest private hotel in the kingdom.

Among the institutions of various kinds which
abound in this locality, a prominent place is held
by the North Surrey District School, in the Anerley
Road. It is a very large and complete establish-
ment, covering an area of about fifty acres. It
provides accommodation and the means of indus-
trial training for nearly 1,000 children from the
surrounding district unions.

The Roman Catholic Orphanage of Our Lady,
founded in 1S48, is under the charge of a religious
community of ladies, and contains about 320
orphan and poor children, who are lodged, fed,
and clothed, until they are fit to be placed in
situations as domestic servants, for which they
are specially trained. The children, when placed
in service, are watched over by the community,
who give prizes annually to those who keep their
situations longest, and can supply the best
characters. There is also a home attached, into

3i6

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Norwood.

which the orphans are received when out of
situation and in sickness, provided they have con-
ducted themselves satisfactorily. The institution is I
a branch from the Monastery de la Notre Dame
des Orphelines, at La DelwTande, in Normandy,
celebrated for its treatment of orthopaedic diseases,
from which many English families are said to have
derived great benefit. The building here was
commenced in 1855, and was erected from the
designs of Mr. Wardell. It is of Gothic design,
with a tower in the centre, and covers a large
extent of ground. A part of the edifice, entirely
distinct from the orphanage, is used as a boarding-
school for young ladies of the higher classes.

Noticeable for its architectural as well as philan-
thropic character is the Jews' Hospital, Lower
Norwood, which was erected in 1863, from the
designs of Mr. Tillot, " for the maintenance of the
aged poor, and the industrial training of friendless
children." The Jews' Hospital, one of the oldest
cliaritable institutions of the Jews in England, was
originally established in Mile End, in the year
1S06. Large sums were collected by its founders,
Messrs. B. and A. Goldsmid ; considerable legacies
have been bequeathed to it ; the benevolent family
of Rothschild have greatly benefited it ; and the
members of the Jewish body generally have at all
times given it their support. The change from so
crowded a locality as Mile End to the present
eligible site of the hospital has, doubtless, proved
advantageous to the institution, and to the Jewish
community generally. The edifice, which is con-
structed of brick witli stone dressings, is a good
specimen of the Jacobean style of architecture.
Over the hall, &c., is a synagogue, witli a gallery,
having an open timber roof.

The .schools of the Westmorland Society, for
children of parents residing within seventy-five
miles of London, are at Lower Norwood. Close
by, on the slopes of a gentle hill, and occupy-
ing some forty acres of ground, is the South
Metropolitan Cemetery. It was one of tlie earliest
of our great metropolitan cemeteries, having been
founded in 1839. The grounds are well laid out,
and command good views across Sydenham, Fenge,
and Beckenham. The cemetery is becoming
rapidly filled with monuments. Many men of
mark have their last resting-place here : among
them Justice Talfourd, Douglas Jerrold, Angus
Reach, Laman Blanciiard, Sir Wm. Cubitt (the
celebrated engineer) ; Sharon Turner, the historian ;
Sir Wm. Napier, the historian of the Peninsular
War ; James Wm. Gilbart, the founder of the
London and Westminster Bank ; Frederick Robson,
tile comedian j and ( '. II. ^purgeon, the preacher.

In Upper Norwood is the Royal Normal College
and Academy of Music for the Blind, which was
established in 1874, to afford a thorough general
and musical education to the youthful blind of
both sexes, who possess the requisite talent so as
to qualify them for self maintenance. The founders
of the college, recognising that all of the difterent
kinds of handicraft suitable for the blind were
thoroughly taught in various establishments through-
out the country, have confined themselves to the
special work of preparing the blind as teachers,
organists, and pianoforte tuners. The college is
designed to form a supplement to the other institu-
tions, and in no sense is it expected that it will
take the place of the older establishments, or in
any way interfere with their work. The college
embraces three distinct departments — that of
general education, of music, and pianoforte tuning.
Each has been carefully planned, furnished with
the most modern appliances, and provided with
experienced teachers especially adapted to their
part of the work.

At Norwood, in 1S33, died the Earl of Dudley,
having been insane for the last few months of his
life. He had always been eccentric ; but in the
early part of 1832 he was declared by Sir Henry
Halford to be insane, having committed a variety
of harmless extravagances ; and his last days were
passed in retirement.

On the southern side of Norwood, and extending
about a mile and a half along the Brighton road
from Brixton Hill towards Croydon, is the village
of Streatham, about which we must write some-
what briefly, as we must not travel too far afield
from the metropolis. It is a rambling district,
occupying for the most part high ground, with a
good deal of open heath. It abounds in mansions
encompassed by well-wooded grounds.

At the time of the Domesday survey Streatham
was divided into several manors, the chief of
which, called Totinges, which included the hamlet
of Tooting, was iield by the Abbot of St. Mary de
Bee, and hence came to be known as Tooting-
Bec. From that period till the time of the " dis-
solution " of religious houses, it changed ownership
several times. .\ portion of tlie ancient jiriory of
Tooting liec still remains at Bedford Hill. In 1553
the properly was sold to Dudley, Earl of Warwick,
and half a century later it was purcliased by Sir
Giles Howland. I'',li/,al)elh, daughter and heiress of
John Howland, conveyed it, by marriago, in 1695,
to Wriothesley, Marquis of Tavistock, afterwards
third Duke of Bedford, and Baron Howland of
Streatham. The marriage ceremony was per-
formed by Bishop Burnet, at Streatham House,

S treat ham.}

DR. JOHNSON AND MRS. THRALE.

317

Lord Wriothesley being only fifteen years old.
Francis, fifth Duke of Bedford, conveyed the
mansion to his brother, Lord William Russell, who
was murdered by his Swiss valet, Courvoisier.*
Lord William made the old house his residence,
but about the close of the last century conveyed
it to the Earl of Coventry, by whom it was rebuilt.
The late Duke of Portland had a residence at
Streatham. Among other noted residents here
were the late Mr. Dyce, R.A., and the late Mr.
I). Roberts, R.A., the well-known artists.

Eastwards from Streatham Green there are
mineral springs which, as Aubrey informs us, were
discovered about fourteen years before he wrote
(a.d. 1659). Persons employed in weeding in dry
weather, it appears, drank some of the water, and
found it purgative. The owner of the field at first
forbade people to take the water ; but before the
end of the reign of Charles IL it came into
common use. Lysons says that in his time (18 10)
the Streatham water was sent in large quantities to
some of the London hospitals. The well still
exists, but its fame has departed.

On the high road between the villages of
Streatham and Tooting, somewhat less than a
century ago, stood a turnpike gate, which was the
scene of an amusing escapade, arising out of the
convivial habits of Lord Thurlow. The Lord
Chancellor had been dining with Mr. Jenkinson
(afterwards Lord Liverpool) at Addiscombe, his
seat near Croydon, together with Dundas, and the
younger Pitt, then Chancellor of the Exchequer.
On their return late in the evening on horseback,
they found the gate open, and as they had no
servant with them, and were all more or less
"merry" with wine, they rode through without
staying to pay the toll. The gatekeeper, aroused
by the sound of their horse-hoofs as they galloped
through, sprang up, rushed out into the road, and
fired a blunderbuss after them, but fortunately
without efi'ect. He took them, no doubt, for a
gang of highwaymen who had been committing
robberies along the road. The story got about,
much to the amusement of the qiddnima of
" Brooks's" and " White's " clubs ; and it was after-
wards celebrated in the " Rolliad," the author of
which poem writes, alluding to Pitt —

" How, as he wandered darkling o'er the plain,
His reason drowned in Jenkinson's champagne,
A rustic's hand, but righteous fate withstood.
Had shed a Premier's for a robber's blood."

But Streatham, perhaps, has chiefly derived its
celebrity from Dr. Johnson's connection with it.

• See Vol. IV., p. 375.

Streatham Place was the residence of Henry Thrale,
the opulent brewer of Southwark, to whom we
have already introduced tlie reader,+ when Johnson
was first presented to him by his friend Murphy,
in 1 764 ; and during Thrale's life Streatham Place
was to Johnson a second home. Johnson did not
become an inmate or constant guest at Mr. Thrale's
house here till about 1766, when his constitution
seemed to be giving way, and he was visited by
fits of deep and gloomy melancholy, which Mrs.
Thrale (afterwards Mrs. Piozzi), with her wonted
vivacity and cheerfulness, did her best to dispel.
An apartment was fitted up for him ; a knife and
fork were constantly laid for him ; companions
and friends were invited from London without stint,
to entertain him and to be entertained by him.
His favourite strolling-place in the grounds was
known as Dr. Johnson's Walk. The summer-house
in the garden was one of the doctor's favourite
resorts, when on a visit to his kind and hospitable
friends. Here he made many pious meditations
and resolutions ; among the latter may be men-
tioned one which still exists in his own hand-
writing, dated as late as 1781, "To pass eight
hours every day in some serious employment."

As Mrs. Piozzi herself tells us, in her "John-
soniana," " Dr. Johnson would here spend the
middle days of the week, returning to his household
near Fleet Street every Saturday, to give them three
good dinners and his company, before he came
back to us on the Monday night," thus reversing
the process of our own day, which usually takes
hard-working people into the suburbs from Saturday
till Monday. In the drawing-room at Streatham
he revelled in the freedom of his discourse, released,
as he doubtless felt himself, from the restraints of
the clubs and coffee-houses of Covent Garden. It
was here, for instance, that, when asked .somewhat
abruptly by a silly young fellow, whether he would
recommend him to marry, he set him down with the
quick reply, " Sir, I would advise no man to marry
who is not likely to propagate understanding."

Of Mrs. Piozzi (Mrs. Thrale), whose name is
destined always to shine in the world of literature
as a " queen of society," we have already spoken
at some length in the chapter above referred to ;
but a few words more about her may not be out
of place here. " Mrs. Thrale always appeared to
me," writes Sir N. W. Wraxall, in his " Historical
Memoirs," " to possess at least as much information
and a mind as cultivated as Mrs. Montagu, and
even more wit ; but she did not descend among
men from such an eminence, and she talked much

t See rt«/f, p. 34.

318

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

rSlreatham.

more, as well as more unguardedly, upon every
subject. She was the provider and conductress of
Dr. Johnson, who lived almost entirely under her

roof, both in town and at Streatham.

He did not, however, spare her more than other
women in his attacks, if she courted or provoked
his animadversion." " I cannot withhold from Mrs.
Thrale," says Dr. Johnson, " the praise of being
the author of that admirable poem, 'The Three

of Garrick, Goldsmith, Dr. C. Burney, Edmund
Burke, Lord Lyttelton, Mrs. Piozzi herself and
her daughter, and, of course. Dr. Johnson. This
gallery of portraits was sold in 1816, when they
fetched various prices, ranging from ^^80 up to
^378, at which price the burly doctor himself was
knocked down. They would easily fetch four
times that price now-a-days. An odd volume of
" Saurin on the Bible," with a memorandum by

I.I-IK]) imiKLIlU

Warnings.'" The long and constant hospitality of
Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, at their house at Streatham,
to Dr. Johnson, extended over almost the last
twenty years of his life.

Miss Thrale, Johnson's "Queeny," was among
those who sat by the learned doctor's deathbed, in
spite of the differences which had arisen between
him and her mother, on account of her second
marriage. Baretti, who acted for about ten years
as teacher of Italian to the daughters of Mrs.
Thrale, on the recommendation of Dr. Joimson,
afterwards assailed tliat lady's memory most un-
gratefully.

Hung up in the library at Mrs. Piozzi's house
was a series of portraits of literary characters,
painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds, including those

Dr. Johnson on the title page, and some manu-
script notes by Mrs. Piozzi, fetched no less th;in
;^42 in a sale of Mrs. Piozzi's effects at Brighton,
in 1857. The china teapot which stood on Mrs.
Piozzi's table, and from which Dr. Johnson drank
never-ending cu[)s of the cheering liciuid, was
bought at the same time by Mrs. ISLirryatt. Mrs.
Thralc's house was pulled down about 1868. The
memory of Mrs: Thrale, however, is still preserved
by the name of Thrale Hall, now a boarding-house.
About the year 1S70 the ALagdalcn Hospital was
removed hither from lilackfriars Road, where it
had existed as one of the best-known charitable
institutions in London for upwards of a century,
AVe shall have more to say about it when we reach
Blackfriars Road on our return journey.

Brixton.]

ST. ANN'S ASYLUM.

319

MRS. THRALE's house, SIKEATHAM. (See pagt t,\t.)

CH.ArTER XXIV.
BRIXTON AND CLAPHAM.

The Royal .Asylum of St. Ann's Society— The Female Convict Prison, Brixton— Clapham Park — Etymology of Clapham — Clapham Common — The
Home of Thomas Babington Macau'ay — The Old Manor House — The Residence of Sir Dennis Gauden — Pepys a Resident here — Death of
Samuel Pepys — The Residence of the Bccentric Hertry Cavendish — Tlie Beautiful Mrs. Baldwin — The Home of the Wilberforces— Henry
Thornton— The Parish Church— St. Paul's Church— St. John's Church— St. Saviour's Church— The Congregational Chapel, and the Roinan
Catholic Redemptorist Church and College — Nonconformity at Clapham — The " Clapham Sect " — Lord Teignmouth's House — Nightingale
Lane— The Residence of Mr. C. H. Spurgeon— The " Plough " Inn— The " Bedford " .\rms— Clapham Rise— Young Ladies' Schools— The
British Orphan Asylum — The British Home for Incurables— Clapham Road.

Leaving Streatham Park on our left, we now make
our way northward, by way of Streatham Hill and
Tulse Hill, to Brixton. The Royal Asylum of St.
Ann's Society, which wa pass on our right, was
founded in 1702, "for the education and support
of the daughters of persons once in prosperity,
whether orphans or not." The institution is plea-
santly situated upon Streatham Hill, and flourishes
under royal patronage. The schools, in which are
taught, on an average, about 400 children, are
examined by the Syndicate of Cambridge, and the
pupils are prepared for the Oxford and Cambridge
local examinations. The asylum, erected in 1829,
is a handsome building of three storeys, having
an Ionic portico and pediment, ornamented by a
sculpture of the royal arms.

Almost on the summit of Brixton Hill, in one of
the most open and salubrious spots in the southern
suburbs of London, stands what was till recently
one of the metropolitan houses of correction for
the county of Surrey ; the other, Horsemonger
Lane Gaol, we have already described.* Like
nearly all the prisons constructed at the close
of the last or beginning of the present century,
this is planned in the form of a rude crescent,
the governor's house being in the common centre.
The prison was built in 1820, being calculated for
1S5 prisoners, and no more: that is, there are (or
were) 149 separate cells, and twelve double cells,
in each of which, however, three bed-racks were

* See ante^ p. 253.

320

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Clapham.

fitted up, making altogether bed-racks for 185.
This number of inmates, however, was often con-
siderably more than doubled ; and hence it became
unhealthy, in spite of its admirable situation, and
long enjoyed the reputation of being very dis-
orderly. Mr. Hepworth Dixon, in his work on
the " London Prisons," published in 1850, writes :
" Any person who knows aught of the working of
a gaol system will at once understand why the
Brixton House of Correction is disorderly, why it
is dirty, and why it is unhealthy, when we say that,
instead of 185 prisoners — its full complement —
there are within its walls not less than 431. The
daily average for 1848 was not less than 382, more
than double the number for which there is any
accommodation."

Here the tread-wheel was first employed, about
the year 1824; and from that period, down to the
time when it ceased to be used as a house of
correction, this prison was, par excellence, one for
hard labour ; in fact, it was all tread-wheel, except
for the females, who were employed in picking
oakum and sewing.

In former times the external appearance of this
prison had anything but a show of security against j
the escape of prisoners, the boundary-wall being
much too low. " More than one person," writes
Mr. Dixon, at the date above mentioned, " has
been known to leap from the top without being
at all hurt ; it is, in fact, so low as to offer a
pressing temptation to escape; and attempts are,
therefore, not unfrequent, sometimes," he adds,
"as in a recent case, with most disastrous conse-
quences. A man had got on the wall with the
design of regaining his freedom : he was observed,
and chased by the officers and governor. A
quantity of bricks (loose) are placed on the wall to
increase its height, and these furnished the man ,
with defensive weapons, by which he was enabled |
to keep his pursuers at bay. Seeing no other
means of capturing him, one of the officers (not
the governor, as was stated in the newspapers at
the time) fired at him and seriously wounded him.
It was thought at first, and so reported, that the
wretched man was killed, but, fortunately, it proved
otherwise."

As may be inferred from \\hat we liavc stated
above, this prison was one of the worst, in point
of management, of any in the kingdom, and the
result was that it became a perfect scandal. Access
to its precincts was very rarely, if ever, afforded to
the outside world ; and it is on record that mem-
bers of Parliament, and even tlie Duke of Welling-
ton, had been refused admission. Some idea of
its character, liowevcr, was afforded to the public

in a pamphlet, entitled " A Month at Brixton Tread-
mill," which was published a few years ago. But
a change was in store, for the old prison was sold
in 1S62 to Her jSIajesty's Government, by whom it
has been converted into a convict establishment
for females.

Westward of the prison, and stretching away to
Balham Hill Road, a large tract of land, some 250
acres in extent, known as Bleak Hill, was, in
1824, taken by Mr. Thomas Cubitt, the builder of
Belgravia, and converted into a series of broad
roads and open spaces, planted, and built over with
capacious detached villas, and named Clapham
Park. This was long the " Belgravia of Clapham ;"
but a newer and perhaps more attractive quarter
has since sprung up in " The Cedars," which lies
on the opposite side of Clapham Common.

Clapham is supposed to have received its appella-
tion from one of its ancient proprietors, Osgod
Clapa, being the name of the Danish lord at
whose daughter's marriage-feast Hardicanute died.
Mr. Brayley, in his " History of Surrey," however,
observes that there is an objection to this suppo-
sition, inasmuch as in the Chertsey Register the
place is named " Clappenham " as far back as the
reign of Alfred. In the Domesday Survey it is
entered as "Ciopeham." Hughson, in his "History
of London" (iSoS), describes Clapham as a village
about four miles from Westminster Bridge, and
consisting of " many handsome houses, surrounding
a common that commands many pleasing views.
This common," he adds, " about the commence-
ment of the present reign, was little better than a
morass, and tlie roads were almost impassable.
The latter are now in an excellent state, and the
common so beautifully planted with trees, that it
has the appearance of a park. These improve-
ments were effected by a subscription of the in-
habitants, who, on this occasion, have been much
indebted to the taste and exertions of Mr. Chris-
topher Baldwin, for many years an inhabitant, and
an active magistrate ; and as a proof of the
consequent increased value of property on this
spot, Mr. Baldwin has sold fourteen acres of land
near his own house for ^5,000. ... A reser-
voir near the Wandsworth Road supplies the village
with water." The Common, still about 220 acres
in extent, is bounded on the eastern side by
Balham Hill Road, wliich is a continuation of the
road through Newington which wc have already
described ; on the north-west by liattersea Rise ;
and on tiie south-west by a roadway, dotted at
intervals with private residences standing within
their own grounds, and " embosomed high in tufted
trees." Like Pcckham Rye, and such other open

CIapham.3

CLAPHAM COMMON.

321

spaces of the kind as are left in the suburbs of
London, Clapham Common in its time has had
its fair share of patronage, either of those who
deUght in the healthful and invigorating game of
cricket, or of those who desire a quiet stroll
over its velvet-like turf. Pleasure-fairs, too, were
held here on Good Friday, Easter and Whit Mon-
days, and on "Derby Day;" but these were
abolished in 1873. The Common is ornamented
with a few large ponds, which add not a little to
the charm of the place.

In the year 1S74 the Enclosure Commissioners
for England antl Wales, under the Metropolitan
Commons' Act, 1866, and Metropolitan Commons'
Amendment Act, 1869, certified a scheme for
placing the Common under the Metropolitan
Board of Works. The Common was purchased
for _£i 7,000, and it was proposed that it should be
dedicated to the use and recreation of the public
for ever. By the above-mentioned scheme the
Board were to drain, plant, and ornament the
Common as necessary, but no houses were to be
built thereon, except lodges necessary for its main-
tenance. The now defunct Board of Works,
having thus taken the Common under their pro-
tection, at once set to work in order to effect an
improvement in its appearance, by the planting of
an avenue of young trees, and the formation of
new footpaths in an ornamental style. The Board
also issued its mandate that no more gravel was to
be dug, or turf or furze cut off the Common, and
that nothing should be done to disturb its rural
aspect. To this day, consequently, " the Common "
is, perhaps, one of the least changed of all spots
round London, that is, so far as encroachment
goes.

In a house a few doors from the " Plough "
Inn, and facing the Common (now occupied by a
tradesman), Thomas Babington Macaulay spent
the greater portion of his childhood, caring less for
his toys than for books, which he read well at
three years old ! Here Hannah More visited
the Macaulays, and, the parents being absent, was
horrified at being offered a glass of spirits by the
precocious child, who had learned the existence
of spirits from the pages of Robinson Crusoe !
The Common, at that time, had something poetic
about it, at all events, to the imaginative mind of
the future historian. "That delightful wilderness
of gorse-bushes, and poplar-groves and gravel-pits,
and ponds great and small, was to little Tom
Macaulay a region of inexhaustible romance and
mystery. He explored all its recesses ; he com-
posed, and almost believed, its legends;" and his
biographer, Sir G. O. Trevelyan, records the fact j

that he would trace out in the hillocks of the
Common an imaginary set of Alps, and an equally
fanciful range of Mount Sinai. The house formerly
stood back from the road, but of late years it has
thrown out a shop-front, and, externally, has lost
all traces of liaving been a private gentleman's
residence. Lady Trevelyan, a sister of Lord
Macaulay, lived for a time at Clapham, after break
ing up her menage in Great George Street.

The " Clapham Sect," on whose merits a bril-
liant panegyric was penned by Sir James Stephen,
had its head-quarters at this house, and at that of
Lord Teignmouth, close by. The virtues of the
" Claphamites," as they were sneeringly called, have
been acknowledged even by their most strenuous
opponents.

The old Manor House, which was standing at
the corner of Manor Street when Priscilla Wake-
field wrote her "Perambulations," in 1809, and
was then occupied as a ladies' school, was dis-
tinguished by a singular tower, octagonal in form.

Skirting the Common, particularly on the eastern
side, are still standing several of the spacious old
red-brick mansions, the abode of wealthy London
merchants, which once nearly surrounded its entire
area. Many have fine elms growing in tlie grounds
before them. The place must have been well
inhabited, even so far back as John Evelyn's
time, for he mentions dining here, at the house of
Sir Dennis Gauden, whom he accompanied llience
to Windsor on business with the king. Perhaps
he was a City magnate, willing to lend money to
his ever impecunious sovereign. The house, which
was a large roomy edifice, with a noble gallery
occupying the whole length of the building, was
built by Sir Dennis for his brother, Dr. John Gauden,
Bishop of Exeter, the presumed author of " Eikon
Basilike;" and after his death, in 1662, it became
the residence of Sir Dennis himself, who sold it to
one " AVill " Hewer, who rose from being Pepys'
clerk to a high position in the civil service, but
found his occupation gone at the Revolution. Sir
Dennis still, however, lived here, "very handsomely,
and friendly to everybody," writes Evelyn, who was
often a guest at his table ; and he died here a few
months after the fall of the Stuarts.

Pepys used often to visit here his friend Gauden,
"Victualler of the Navy, aftenvards Sherift' of
London, and a knight." Under date July 25, 1663,
he writes, in his " Diary : " — " Having intended
this day to go to Banstead Downes to see a famous
race, I sent Will to get himself ready to go with
me ; but I hear it is put off, because the Lords do
sit in Parliament to-day. After some debate. Creed
and I resolved to go to Clapham, to Mr. Gauden's.

322

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Clapham.

When I come there, the first thing was to show me
his house, which is ahnost built. I find it very
regular and finely contrived, and the gardens and
offices about it as convenient and as full of good
variety as ever I saw in my life. It is tme he hath
been censured for laying out so much money ; but
he tells me he built it for his brother, who is since
dead (the bishop), who, when he should come to
be Bishop of Winchester, which he was promised
(to which bishopricke, at present, there is no house),
he did intend to dwell here. By and by to dinner,
and in comes Mr. Creed ; I saluted his lady and
the young ladies, and his sister, the bishop's widow,
who was, it seems, Sir ^V^ Russell's daughter, the
Treasurer of the Navy, whom I find to be very
well bred, and a woman of excellent discourse.
Towards the evening we bade them adieu, and
took horse, being resolved that, instead of the
race which fails us, we would go to Epsom."

Later on, it seems, Pepys took up his residence
here with his friend Hewer. John Evelyn writes
again in his " Diary," under date Sept. 23rd, 1700 :
" I went to visit Mr. Pepys, at Clapham, where he
has a very noble and wonderfully well-furnished
house, especially with Indian and Chinese curiosi-
ties : the offices and gardens well accommodated
for pleasure and retirement." Three years later,
namely, on the 26th of May, 1703, Evelyn made
the following entry in his "Diary:" — "This day
died Mr. Sam. Pejjys, a very worthy, industrious,
and curious person, none in England exceeding
him in knowledge of the Navy, in which he had
passed thro' all the most considerable offices.
Clerk of the Acts and Secretary of the Admiralty,
all of which he jicrformed with greate integrity.
When K. James II. went out of England, he laid
down his office and would serve no more, but
withdrawing himselfe from all public affaires, he
liv'd at Clapham with his partner, Mr. Hewer, for-
merly his clerk, in a very noble house and sweete
place, where he enjoy 'd the fruite of his labours in
greate prosperity. He was universally belov'd,
hospitable, generous, learned in many things, skill'd
in music, a very greate cherishcr of learned men of
whom he had the conversation. His library and
collection of other curiosities were of the most
considerable, the models of ships especially." He
was buried, as already stated, in St. Olave's Church,
Hart Street.*

Lord Braybrooke, in his " Memoir of Samuel
Pepys," tells us that when he removed to Mr.
Hewer's Jiouse at Clapham, lie left a large portion
of his correspondence bi-hind him in Nork Build-

Sce Vol. 11., p. xia.

ings, in the custody of a friend. This correspond-
ence eventually found its way into the Bodleian
Library, at O.xford. It only remains to add that
Hewer's house was pulled down about the middle
of the last century.

In a large house on die east side of the Common,
at the corner of what is now known as Cavendish
Road, lived Mr. Henry Cavendish, the eccentric
chemist, of whom we have already had occasion to
speak, in our notice of Cower Street.t He died in
1810, le.iving more than a million to be divided
among his relatives. One of his eccentricities was
his utter disregard of money. The bankers with
whom he kept his account, finding that his balance
had accumulated to upwards of ^^80,000, commis-
sioned one of the partners to wait on him, and to
ask him what he wished done with it. On reaching
Clapham, and finding Mr. Cavendish's house, he
rang the bell, but had the greatest difficulty in
obtaining admission. "You must wait," said the
servant, " till my master rings his bell, and then I
will let him know that you are here." In about
a quarter of an hour the bell rang, and the fact
of the banker's arrival was duly communicated to
the abstracted chemist. Mr. Cavendish, in great
agitation, desired that the banker might be shown
up, and as he entered the room, saluted him with
a few words, asking him the object of his visit.
" Sir, I thought proper to wait upon you, as we have
in hand a very large balance of yours, and we wish
for your orders respecting it." " Oh, if it is any
trouble to you, I will take it out of your hands.
Do not come here to plague me about money."
" It is not the least trouble to us, sir ; but we
thought you might like some of it turned to ac-
count, and invested." " Well, well ; what do you
want to do?" "Perhaps you would like to have
forty thousand pounds invested ? " " Yes ; do so,
if you like ; but don't come here to trouble me
any more, or I will remove my balance."

Cavendish lived a very retired existence, and to
strangers he was most reserved. To such an
extent did he carry his solitary habits, that he
would never even see or allow liimself to be seen
by a female servant ; and, as Lord Brougham re-
lates, " he used to order his dinner daily by a note,
which he left at a certain hour on the hall table,
whence the housekeeper was to take it."

His shyness was, not unnaturally, mistaken by
strangers for pride. In Bnihn's " Life of Von
Humboldt" it is related that, "While travelling
in England, in 1790, with Ceorge Forster, Hum-
boldt obtained permission to make use of the

t Sec Vol. IV., p. 168.

Claphnm.l

HENRY CAVENDISH.

32.?

\

library of the eminent chemist and philosopher,
Henry Cavendish, second son of the Duke of
Devonshire, on condition, however, that he was
on no account to presume so far as to speak to
or even greet the shy and aristocratic owner,
should he happen to encounter him. Humboldt
states this in a letter to Bunsen, adding, sarcastically,
' Cavendish litde suspected, at that time, that it
was I who, in 18 10, was to be his successor at the
Academy of Sciences.' "

Cavendish, who has been styled " the Newton
of Chemistry," was distinguished as the founder of
pneumatic chemistry, and for his successful re-
searches on the composition of water, and his
famous experiment, made at Clapham, for the
determination of the earth's density. " The man
who weighed the world," wrote his cousin, the
late Duke of Devonshire, in his " Handbook for
Chatsworth," " buried his science and his wealth
in solitude and insignificance at Clapham."

Almost the whole of his house here was occupied
as workshops and laboratory. " It was stuck about
with thermometers, rain-gauges, &c. A registering
thermometer of Cavendish's own construction
served as a sort of landmark to his house. It is
now in Professor Brande's possession." A small
portion only of the villa was set apart for personal
comfort. The upper rooms constituted an astro-
nomical observatory. What is now the drawing-
room was the laboratory. In an adjoining room a
forge was placed. The lawn was invaded by a
wooden stage, from which access could be had to
a large tree, to the top of which Cavendish, in the
course of his astronomical, meteorological, elec-
trical, or other researches, occasionally ascended.
His library was immense, and he fi.\ed it at a
distance from his house, in order that he might
not be disturbed by those who came to con'^ult it.
His own particular friends were allowed to boiTOw
books, but neither they nor even Mr. Cavendish
himself ever withdrew a book without giving a
receipt for it. The mansion of Henry Cavendish,
since re-fronted and considerably altered, was in
1877 the residence of Mr. H. S. Bicknell, and is
known as Cavendish House.

Here and at Balham, towards the close of the
last century, were many residents who belonged to
the Wesleyan connexion ; and it v/as at a friend's
house at Balham that J ohn Wesley dined and slept
less than a week before his death, in March, 1791.

The famous beauty, Mrs. Baldwin — who, when
young, turned the head of the Prince of Wales,
had her portrait painted and her bust sculptured
for foreign emperors and kings, and was kissed
publicly by Dr. Johnson, whom she used to meet at

Mrs. Thrale's house at Streatham — lived for many
years at Clapham, and died here in July, 1839.

The house known as Broomfield, on the south-
west side of the Common, was occupied for some
years by Mr. William Wilberforce, M.P., the dis-
tinguished philanthropist ; and there his no less
distinguished son, Samuel Wilberforce, Bishoj) suc-
cessively of Oxford and of Winchester, was born,
on the 7th of September, 1805.

Close by stood the house once occupied by
Henry Thornton, the author and prime mover of
the agitation for the " reformation of manners and
the suppression of slavery," in which William Wil-
berforce took such a distinguished part. The con-
clave, we are told, held their meetings, for the most
part, in an oval saloon which William Pitt planned
to be added to Thornton's residence. " It arose at
his bidding," writes Sir J. Stephen, in his " Essays,"
"and yet remains, perhaps a solitary monument of
the architectural skill of that imperial mind. Lofty
and symmetrical, it was curiously wainscoted with
books on every side, except where it opened on a
far extended lawn, reposing beneath the giant arms
of aged elms and massive tulip-trees." *

In Mr. J. T. Smith's " Book for a Rainy Day,"
we are introduced to one of these old-fashioned
mansions : — " On arriving at Mr. Esdaile's gate,"
he tells us, " Mr. Smedley remarked that this
(Clapham) was one of the few commons near
London which had not been enclosed. The house
had one of those plain fronts which indicated little,
but upon ascending the steps I was struck with a
similar sensation to those of the previous season,
when first I entered this hospitable mansion. If
I were to suffer myself to utter anything like an
ungrateful remark, it would be that the visitor, im-
mediately he enters the hall, is presented with too
much at once, for he knows not which to admire
first, the choice display of pictures which decorate
the hall, or the equally artful and delightful manner
in which the park-like grounds so luxuriantly burst
upon his sight."

The parish church, built on the north-western
corner of the Common, is a dull, heavy building,
a sort of cross between the London parish church
of Queen Anne's time and the " chapel of ease " of
the last century. It dates from the year 1776. Yet
Macaulay was fond of it to the last. He writes,
under date Clapham, February, 1849 : "To church
this morning. I love the church, for the sake of
old times; I love even that absurd painted window,
with the dove, the lamb, the urn, the two cornu-
copias, and the profusion of sun-flowers, passion-

* Quoted by Mr. J. Thorn In his " Environs of London."

324

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

rriapHam.

flowers, and peonies." He adds, " I heard a
Puseyite sermon, very different from the oratory
which I formerly used to hear from the same
pulpit." The edifice is an ugly brick structure,
with a singular dome-crowned tower at the west
end. It contains a mural tablet to the memory
of Dr. John Jebb, " the good, great, and pious
Bishop of Limerick," who died in 1833; also
a monument, by Sir Richard Westmacott, to John

with the instructions of Queen Elizabeth. The old
church, however, stood at some little distance from
the present parish church, on the high ground
between Larkhall Lane and Wandsworth Road.
St. Paul's Church, which occupies its site, is a
plain brick-built structure, and was erected in 1814.
On the south wall is a monument, with bust, of
William Hewer, which was saved on the demolition
of the old church.

\]\w 111" ri.AriiAM IN 1700.

Thornton. The remains of the bishop are depo-
sited in the tomb of the Thorntons.

Priscilla Wakefield, in her "Perambulations of
London," published in 1809, writes as follows: —
" There are now no remains of the old church,
except the .south aisle, which does not bear the
marks of any remote antiquity. It is now out of
u.se, unless for the funeral service, there being no
other burying-ground but that which belongs to it.
The new church stands on the north side of the
Common ; it is a plain modern edifice, without
aisles or chancel."

Mr. J. T. .Smith, the antiquary, states that the
walls of the little old parish churdi, wliicii was
demolished to make way for its successor, were
adorned with Scrijiture texts, painted in accordance

St John's Church, built in 1842, stands on the
western side of the Clapham Road, between Stock-
well and the Common ; it is after the model of
a Greek temple, with an Ionic portico and no
steeple, but a cross on tlie top of the pediment.
Dr. Bickersteth, the second Bishop of Ripon, was
for some years the minister here.

St. Saviour's Church, in Cedars' Road, is a large
and handsome rruciform stmcture, with a central
tower in three stages, with jiinnacles. It is in the
Decorated style of architecture, and was built, in
1864, from the designs of Mr. J. Knowles, at the
cost of the Rev. AV. Bowyer. The windows are
filled with i)ainted glass, by Clayton and Bell.
This church remained unconsecrated for several
years, in consequence of the bishop of tho diocese

Clapham.]

MACAULAY'S EARLY HOME.

32s

objecting to the position of a monument of Mrs.
Bowyer, which had been placed under the tower,
immediately in front of the altar-rails. The monu-
ment— an altar-tomb, with a recumbent effigy of
Mrs. Bowyer — was removed, in 1873, to the north
transept.

By far the finest ecclesiastical-looking structures
at Clapham do not belong to the Established j
Church. These are the Congregational Chapel, in

before one of the courts of law, to silence the bells
of St. Mary's as a nuisance. He was successful in
his suit; and the case of "Soltau v. De Weld"
must be regarded as settling the question as to
the right of any clergyman, except one of the
Established Church, to ring bells to the annoyance
of his neighbours.

The pulpit of Clapham Church, in Macaulay's
childhood, it is almost needless to add, rang with

OLD CLAPHAM CHURCH IN 1750.

Orafton Square, built in 1852, one of the most
commodious and elegant edifices of which London
Nonconformists can boast ; and the Roman Catholic
Redemptorist Church of St. Mary, built in 1849.
These, with their lofty spires, quite dwarf the plain
and unpretending parish structures.

Sir G. O. Trevelyan writes thus, in his " Life of
Lord Macaulay " : — " At Clapham, as elsewhere,
tiie old order is changing. What was once the
/lome of Zachary stands almost within the swing of
the bells of a stately and elegant Roman Catholic
thapel ; and the pleasant mansion of Lord Teign-
mouth, the cradle of the Bible Society, is now
turned into a convent of monks;" — he should
have said, of "regular clergy." A gentleman
who lived close by, in 185 1, brought an action
268

" Evangelical " doctrines. Lideed. Clapham has
long been regarded as a suburb whose residents are
chiefly distinguished by social prosperity and ardent
attachment to "Evangelical opinions;" and hence
it is sneeringly spoken of by " Tom Ingoldsby " as
"that sanctified ville;" and Thackeray has intro-
duced a picture of the religious life of the place into
the opening chapters of "The Newcomes." But
he has, perhaps, overdrawn the Nonconformist
element in it, and "Hobson" and "Brian New-
come " are scarcely fair specimens of the outcome
of the religious influences of " the Clapham Sect "
in its palmy days, when it numbered Wilberforce,
and James Stephen, the Thorntons, and Charles
and Robert Grant. Still, it was the chosen home
of the Low-Church party during its golden age,

326

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Clapham,

and Churchmen and Nonconformists met there on
common ground. I

The meetings of Henry Drummond, the elder j
Macaulay, and the little coterie that gathered round
them, and who were designated the " Clapham
Sect," first made the ancient home of Osgod Clapa
a synonym for devout respectability, and doubtless
it will be long before this distinctive description
will die out. As Horace writes —

" The cask will long I

Retain the sweet scents of its earhest days." i

When the " Clapham Sect " first became famous, i
even along the high road the houses had not crept
along in an unbroken line to the Common ; the
place was literally a village, prim, select, and ex-
clusive. For several generations Nonconformity
had had a foothold therein. It is said tiiat between
the years 1640 and 1650 Mr. WilUam Bridge, M.A.,
one of the five divines who, under the leadership of ,
Philip Nye, made a stand for liberty of conscience ^
in the Westminster Assembly of Divines, preached
at Clapham, and founded therein an Indepen- i
dent congregation. Be that as it may, it is certain j
that when Chailes 11. published, in 1671-72, a-
declaration of Indulgence, licenses to conduct Non- |
conformist worship were granted to Dr. Wilkinson,
of Clapham, for his own house and school-room,
and to Mr. Thomas Lye, of the same place, for
his own house. Mr. Lye had been minister of
AUhallows, and one of Cromwell's "Triers." He
formed a congregation, which continued to assemble
in a private house in the time of his successor,
Philip Lamb. Subsequently it met in a temporary
wooden building, and in 1762 a more substantial
edifice was erected, in which for some years
laboured Dr. Furneaux, a learned and voluminous
writer, with a strong leaning towards Arianism. In
this chapel they continued to meet until, in 1852,
was erected Grafton Square Chapel. The con-
gregation is large and comparatively wealthy. A
commodious lecture-hall, used also as a Sunday-
school, is erected in the immediate vicinity of the
church, and a mission-hall and schools in the
Wandsworth Road.

The " Cla])ham Sect " — which comprised the
leaders of the Evangelical party, mostly Church-
men, but with a sprinkling of Nonconformists, and
numbered among them such men as Wilberforce,
Pepperel, Macaulay, Thornton, Stephen, &c. — met,
as we have stated before, at Lord Tcignniouth's
house, at the corner of Clapham Common, now
the Redemptorists' College and Monastery ; and in
this liouse the Bible Society was founded. One
of the "sect," Mr. Henry 'J"lior;Uon, of Clapham,

was said to have spent ^£^2,000 annually in the
distribution of Bibles and other religious books.

The practical influence of the " Clapham Sect "
was great, though they had no posts or offices
with which to bribe followers ; they doubtless,
also, did much to awaken society to a sense of
the great importance of personal religion ; but
surely Macaulay is guilty of an exaggeration when
he writes of them as follows : — " The truth is that
from that little knot of men emanated all the Bible
societies and almost all the missionary societies
in the world. The share which they had," he
continues, " in providing means for the education
of the people was great. They were the real de-
stroyers of the slave-trade and of slavery. Many
of those whom Stephen describes, in his article
on the ' Clapham Sect,' were public men of the
greatest weight. Lord Teignmouth governed India
at Calcutta. Grant governed India in Leadenhall
Street. Stephen's father was Perceval's right-hand
man in the House of Commons. It is needless to
speak of Wilberforce. As to Simeon, if you knew
what his authority and influence were, you would
allow that his real sway in the Church was far
greater than that of any primate." Much of this
is indisputable. At the beginning of this century,
and for the first thirty years, the men who met at
Lord Teignmouth's table here were really the life
and soul of the Established Church, and the spring
of its active energy.

On the western side of the Common, in Nightin-
gale Lane, a thoroughfare leading from Clapham
to Wandsworth Common, lived the Rev. C. H.
Spurgeon, of whom we have already spoken in our
accounts of the Metropolitan Tabernacle and the
Surrey Music Hall.* One of Mr. Spurgeon's
first undertakings, on settling in London, was the
Pastors' College. The work of the college was for
many years carried on in the dark subterranean
rooms under the Tabernacle; but in 1874 it was
transferred to a more convenient, suitable, and
commodious building at the rear of the Tabernacle,
which had been erected and furnished at a cost of
about ^15,000. Here is a fine hall, with large
class-rooms, a spacious library, and other conveni-
ences. Of the work that has been done at the
Pastors' College some idea may be formed from the
annual report for 189 1—92, showing that 860 persons
had been educated in the institution, of whom 627
were at present in active service as pastors, mission-
aries, and evangelists; 31, though without pastorates,
were regularly engaged in religious work. The-
number of those who had reverted to secular

* See aMtr, pp. 39, a6o, 36;.

Clapham.J

CLAPHAM RISE.

327

occupations was 28, 1 1 were permanently invalided,
and 85 had been removed from the College list on
account of change of belief and other reasons.

We now make our way northward from the
Common by the Clapham Road, leaving the
'■ Plough " Inn on our left. This sign, we need
scarcely remark, leads the mind back to days when
the village of Clapham, far removed from the busy
hum of London life, was surrounded by green
fields and homesteads. " Among agricultural signs,"
Mr. Larwood tells us, in his " History of Sign-
boards," "the 'Plough' leads the van, sometimes
accompanied by the legend, 'Speed the Plough.'"
In some cases the sign bears an inscription in
verse, such as —

" He who by the Plough would thrive.
Himself must either hold or drive."

But if these lines were ever inscribed here, they
have long since been obliterated.

Nearer to London is the " Bedford Arms," a
tavern doubtless so named in honour of the ducal
house of Bedford, whose lands at Streatham, as we
have seen, can be reached by this road. From the
" Bedford Arms " up to the " Plough " there is a
somewhat steep ascent, and the roadway at that
point is known as Clapham Rise. This spot has
long been noted for its seminaries for young ladies,
a fact which is wittily referred to by Tom Ingoldsby,
in his amusing mock-heroic poem, " The Babes in
the Wood "—

" And Jane, since, when girls have ' the dumps,'
Fortune-hunters in scores to entrap 'em rise.
We'll send to those worthy old frumps,

The two Misses Tickler of Clapham Rise !"

This locality is also a favourite spot for charitable
institutions. At Clapham Rise was founded, in

1827, the British Orphan Asylum, now located at
Slough, near Windsor. The design of this institu-
tion is "to board, clothe, and educate destitute
children of either sex who are really or virtually
orphans, and are descended from parents who have
moved in the middle classes of society, such as, for
example, children of clergymen, and of members
of the legal and medical professions, naval and
military officers, merchants, and of other persons
who in their lifetime were in a position to provide
a liberal education for their children."

The British Home for Incurables, now flourishing
at Clapham Rise, was established in 1861, with
two objects — to provide a home for life, with good
nursing, skilled medical attendance, and all neces-
sary mechanical contrivances for the alleviation of
the sufferings and afflictions of the patients ; and to
grant pensions of ^20 per annum for life to those
who may have relatives or friends partially able to
provide for them, but who are not able wholly to
maintain them. All who are afflicted with in-
curable disease are eligible, without regard to
nationality or creed, e.xcept the insane, the idiotic,
and the pauper class, and those under twenty years
of age. The institution extends its operations to
all parts of the United Kingdom.

The Clapham Road, a broad and well-built
thoroughfare, descends gradually towards Stockwell
and Kennington. On every recurring " Derby Day"
its appearance, from the vehicular and other traffic
which passes along it, is lively and animated in
the extreme. The scenes to be witnessed here
on these occasions have been graphically and
amusingly described by Mr. G. A. Sala, in his
" Daylight and Gaslight," to the pages of which we
would refer the reader.

CHAPTER XXV.

STOCKWELL AND KENNINGTON.

**Here the Black Prince once lived and held his court." — Pkitips.

Etymology of Stockwell — Its Rustic Retirement Half a Century ago — The Green — Meeting of the Albion Archers— The Stockwell Ghost — Old
House in which Lord Cromwell is said to have lived — St. Andrew's Church — Small-pox and Fever Hospital — Mr. John Angell's Bequest —
Trinity Asylum — Stockwell Orphanage — Mr. Alfred Forrester — Kennington Manor — Death of Hardicanute— Kennington a Favourite Resi-
dence of the Black Prince — Masques and Pageants— Isabella, the '* Little Queen " of Richard II. — The Last of the Old Manor House —Cum-
berland Row — Caron House— Kennington Oval — Beaufoy's Vinegar Dlstiller>' — The Tradescants — Kennington Common — Execution of the
Scottish Rebels — " Jemmy" Dawson — Meeting of the Chartists in 1848 — Large Multitudes addressed by Whitefield — The Common converted
into a Park — St. Mark's Church— "The Horns" Tavern — Lambeth Waterworks— The Licensed Victuallers' School.

Stockwell lies to our right as we journey along
the Clapham Road on our way back towards the
metropolis. " The etymology of the place," writes
Allen, in his " History of Surrey," " is probably
derived from ' stoke ' (the Saxon stoc, a wood), and

' well,' from some spring in the neighbourhood.
It is called a " small rural village " by Priscilla
Wakefield, in her " Perambulations of London,"
published in 1809. The place, indeed, retained
its characteristics of rustic retirement down to

328

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[St. ck*ell.

' a comparatively recent date. In the " Chimney
,y Corner Companion " is an amusing account of
a cockney's "outing" with a gun on the ist of
September, 1825, in which we are told how that
he and his friend breakfasted at the "Swan" at
Stockwell, and pushed on Kent-wards by way of
Brixton to Blackheath, but " without meeting any-
thing beyond yellow-hammers and sparrows."

Like Lee and other places in the immediate
vicinity of London which we have visited in our
perambulations, Stockwell once boasted of its
"green"; but this, excepting in name, has already
become a thing of the past, and bricks and mortar
are fast usurping what little is left of its once shady
lanes and hedgerows. It was a triangular space on
the western side of the high road, nearly opposite
the " Swan."

The " little fairy green " before the " Swan," at
Stockwell, writes Mr. Thomas Miller, with poetic
exaggeration, in 1852, "is now no more." It was
a dead, flat, triangular space, with no fairies.

In 1840, as we learn from Colburn's " Kalendar
of Amusements," the society of Albion archers
held their first grand field-day, to contend for the
captaincy and lieutenancy for the month, and
Stockwell Park was the place of rendezvous. We
are naively told that " shooting commences at one,
eating and drinking at seven, and the light fantastic
toes are agitating at ten o'clock."

In 1772 this place was alarmed by an appari-
tion, known to this day as " the Stockwell Ghost,''
which spread such terror through the then retired
village and neighbourhood that it became suddenly
invested with almost as much notoriety as Cock
Lane * some years previously.

The story is thus told by Charles Mackay, in
his "Extraordinary Popular Delusions": — -"Mrs.
Golding, an elderly lady, who resided alone with
her servant, Anne Robinson, was sorely sur-
prised, on the evening of Twelfth Day, 1772, to
observe an extraordinary commotion among her
crockery. Cups and saucers rattled down the
chimney ; pots and pans were whirled downwards
or through the windows ; and hams, cheeses, and
loaves of bread disported themselves upon the
floor just as if the devil were in them. This, at
least, was the conclusion to which Mrs. Golding
came ; and, being greatly alarmed, she invited
some of her neighbours to stay with her, and
protect her fronj the evil one. Their presence,
however, did not put a stop to the insurrection of
china, and every room in the house was in a short
lime strewed with fragments. The chairs and

• Sec Vul. 11., p. 43^-

tables at last joined in the tumult ; and things
looked altogether so serious and inexplicable that
the neighbours, dreading that the house itself
would next be seized with a fit of motion and
tumble about their ears, left poor Mra. Golding
to bear the brunt of it by herself. The ghost in
this case was solemnly remonstrated with, and
urged to take its departure ; but the destruction
continuing as great as before, Mrs. Golding finally
made up her mind to quit the house altogether.
With Anne Robinson, she took refuge in the
house of a neighbour ; but his glass and crockery
being immediately subjected to the same per-
secution, he was reluctandy compelled to give
her notice to quit. The old lady, thus forced back
to her own house, endured the disturbance for
some days longer, when suspecting that Anne
Robinson was the cause of all the mischief, she
dismissed her from her service. The extraordinary
appearances immediately ceased, and were never
afterwards renewed — a fact which is of itself
sufficient to point out the real disturber. A long
time afterwards Anne Robinson confessed the
whole matter to the Rev. Mr. Brayfield. This
gentleman confided the story to Mr. Hone, who
pubhshed an explanation of the mystery. It
appears that Anne was anxious to have a clear
f house to carry on an intrigue with her lover, and
she resorted to this trick in order to eflTect her
purpose. She placed the china on the shelves in
such a manner that it fell on the slightest motion ;
and she attached horse-hair to other articles, so
that she could jerk them down from an adjoining
room without being perceived by anyone. She was
exceedingly dexterous at this sort of work, and
would have proved a formidable rival to many a
juggler by profession. A full explanation of the
whole affair may be found in ' Hone's Every-day
Book.'" The pranks of the "ghost" are also
described so fully by Sir Walter Scott, in his book
on " Demonology and Witchcraft," that there is
scarcely any necessity for repeating them more
minutely hero.

"On the west side of Stockwell Green," writes
Allen, in his work above quoted, " is an old house,
now (1829) in the occupation of a butcher, in
which Mr. Nichols says that Thomas Lord Crom-
well lived. There is no ])roof, however," he adds,
" that the above individual resided here or at the
adjacent manor-house."

At the eastern end of Landor Road — or what
was formerly called Bedford Private Road — and
near the triangular space of ground which was
once the "Green," stands St. Andrew's Church.
This edifice, originally known as Stockwell Chapel,

StocUwcU.I

MR. SPURGEON'S ORPHANAGE.

329

was in 1829 described as "a plain edifice of brick,
with a small turret and bell." The chapel was
built about the year 1767, on a piece of ground
granted by the Duke of Bedford. In 18 10, and
again in 1868, it was enlarged and greatly altered,
at a cost of ^3,400 ; and on St. Barnabas Day in
that year it was consecrated, under the title of St.
Andrew. Soon afterwards a consolidated chapelry
district, taken out of the new parishes of St. Mark,
Kennington, and St. Matthew, Brixton, was assigned
to the church.

In the London Road is a small-pox and fever
hospital, which was established here in 1870 by
the Metropolitan District Asylums Board.

On the east side of Stockwell Road is the
Stockwell Training College, with the College Prac-
tising Schools on one side and the Pupil Teachers'
School on the other. These institutions belong to
and are managed by the British and Foreign
School Society, whose headquarters are at Temple
Chambers, Victoria Embankment. The present
buildings were erected in 1861 at a cost of about
^^30,000, and (including the schools) have been
enlarged on several occasions. The College sup-
plies accommodation for 140 students, 130 of
whom are resident, and the remaining ten day
students. The Practising Schools consist of four
(or counting the Pupil Teachers' School, of five)
departments — Girls', Juniors', Infants', and Kinder-
garten— and are attended by some 750 scholars.
The Kindergarten College was transferred some
years ago to the Misses Crombie, who are still
its proprietors. The College which the British
and Foreign School Society maintains for the
special purpose of training Infants' Teachers on
Kindergarten principles is now located at Saffron
Walden.

In 1784 died Mr. John Angell, who left ^6,000
for the purpose of building at Stockwell a college
"for seven decayed gentlemen, two clergymen, an
organist, six singing-men, twelve choristers, a verger,
chapel clerk, and three domestic servants," which
he endowed with rent-charges to the amount of
;{^8oo a year, besides making a provision for the
daily food of the members. His residence, a
large brick mansion, was for some time occupied
as a boarding-school. His name is now kept in
remembrance by the Angell Town Estate, on the
east side of the Brixton Road. Early in the present
century a Mr. Bailey, a merchant in St. Paul's
Churchyard, founded here an asylum for twelve
aged females. The building, a neat brick edifice,
called Trinity Asylum, was erected in Acre Lane
in 1822.

Another charitable institution here is the Stock-

' well Orphanage for boys, founded under the auspices
of the late Mr. Spurgeon, pastor of the Metropolitan
Tabernacle, of whom we have already spoken.
The institution, which covers a large space of
ground on the Bedford estate, and forms a hand-
some quadrangle, is approached by a broad avenue
from the Clapham Road. At the end of this
j avenue, which is planted on either side with plane-
' trees, is the entrance arch, an ornamental structure,
surmounted by a bell-turret. On the piers of the
archway are appropriate inscriptions.

The following description of the edifice is from
the pen of Mr. Spurgeon himself : — " On looking
from under the arch the visitor is struck with the
size and beauty of the buildings, and the delight-
fully airy and open character of the whole institu-
tion. It is a place of sweetness and light, where
merry voices ring out, and happy children play.
The stranger will be pleased with the dining-hali,
hung round with engravings given by Mr. Graves,
of Pall Mall ; he will be shown into the board-
room, where the trustees transact the business ;
and he will be specially pleased with the great
play-hall, in which our public meetings are held
and the boys' sports are carried on. There is the
swimming-bath, which enables us to say that nearly
every boy can swim. Up at the very top of the
buildings, after ascending two flights of stairs, the
visitor will find the school-rooms, which from their
very position are airy and wholesome. The floors,
scrubbed by the boys themselves, the beds made,
and the domestic arrangements all kept in order
by their own labour, are usually spoken of with
approbation." At the further end of the Orphanage
grounds stands the infirmary. It is spacious enough
to accommodate a large number of children, should
an epidemic break out in the institution.

The Orphanage, which was commenced in 1S68,
and finished by the end of the following year,
contains accommodation for 500 children, who are
here fed, clothed, and taught ; and the expenses
of the institution are about ^^ 14,000 per annum.
It is largely, if not mainly, dependent on volun-
tary contributions for its support. The Orphanage,
it should be stated, receives destitute fatherless
boys, without respect to the religion of the parents.
Children are eligible for entrance between the ages
of six and ten, and they are received without
putting the mothers to the trouble and expense
of canvassing for votes, the trustees themselves
selecting the most needy cases. The family system
is carried out, the boys living 'in separate houses,
under the care of matrons.

Not far from the Orphanage, in Portland Place
North, Clapham Road, lived Mr. Alfred Forrester,

T rild Mansion on Slockwell Common, 1793. 2. Old Inn. Stockwcll Common, 1794-

4. Stockwcll Manor House, 1750.

3. Slockwell Chapel, 1800.

Kcnnington.]

"ALFRED CROWQUILL."

331

better known by his notti de plume of " Alfred
Crowquill," the author of "The Wanderings of a
Pen and Pencil," " Railway Raillery," &c. Bom
in London in 1805, Alfred Forrester was educated
at a private institution at Islington, where he was
a schoolfellow of Captain Marryat. In due course |
he became a notary in the Royal Exchange, but j
retired from business about 1839. He commenced
his literary career, at the age of sixteen, as a con-

was probably derived originally from the Saxon
Kyning-tun, " the town or place of the king." " In
the parish of Lambeth," writes Hughson, in his
" History of London," " is the manor of Kcnning-
ton, which, in the Conqueror's Survey, is called
Chenintun. At that time it was in the possession
of Theodoric, a goldsmith, who held it of Edward
the Confessor. There is no record to show how
it reverted to the Crown ; but during the time of

ki,nnini;to.n', from the liREKN, 17S0.

tributor to periodical publications. Later in life
he devoted himself to drawing, modelling, and
engraving both on steel and wood, with the design
of illustrating the works of his pen. His first
publication was " Leaves from my Memorandum
Book," a book of comic prose and verse, illus-
trated by himself, which was followed by his
'• Eccentric Talcs." In 1828 he joined Benjamin
Disraeli, Theodore Hook, and other writers, in the
magazine, edited by Hook, called The Humorist,
and subsequently contributed to Bentleys Mis-
cellany, Punch, the Illustrated London News, &c.

On the north side of Stockwell, and hemmed in
by Walworth, Newington, and South Lambeth, is
the once royal manor of Kennington. The name
of Kennington, it is said by some topographers.

Edward III. it was made part of the Duchy of
Cornwall, to which it still continues annexed.
Here was a royal palace, which was the residence
of the Black Prince : it stood near the spot now-
called Kennington Cross. This palace was occa-
sionally a residence of royalty down to the reign of
Henry VII. After his time the manor appears to
have been let out to various persons. Charles I.,
however, when Prince of Wales, inhabited a house
built on part of the site of the old palace, the
stables of which, built of flint and stone, remained
in situ until the year 1795, when they were known
as ' The Long Barn.' "

Kennington is described in the " Tour round
London," in 1774, as "a village near Lambeth, in
Surrey, and one of the precincts of that parish."

33^

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Kennington.

It was formerly a lordship belonging to the ancient
Earls of Warren, one of whom, in the reign of
Edward IL, being childlesE, gave the manor to the
king. It had been already alienated, however,
before the sixteenth year of Edward III., and was
part of the estate of Roger d'Amory, who was
attainted in the same reign for joining with sundry
other lords in a seditious movement. Coming
once more into the hands of the king, it was made
a royal seat, and became shortly afterwards the
principal residence of the Black Prince. The
author above quoted states of this once abode of
royalty, that "there is nothing now remaining of
this ancient seat but a building called The Long
Barn, which in the year 1709 was one of the
receptacles of the poor persecuted Palatines."

It is generally accepted as a certainty that there
was a royal residence near the spot now known as
Kennington Cross as far back as the Saxon times ;
and here, says tradition, Hardicanute died in the
year 1041. This amiable King of Denmark, third
son of Canute, succeeded to the English crown
on the death of his brother, Harold Harefoot,
whose body, it is related, he caused to be dug up
from its tomb at Winchester, and afterwards to be
beheaded and thrown into the Thames. "Some
good fishermen," so runs the stor)-, "found the
mangled trunk of the dead king, and decently
interred it in the church of St. Clement Danes.
The peculiarly clement Dane who ruled over them,
however, directly he heard of their pious act,
again ordered his brother's body to be flung into
the Thames." Two years afterwards Hardicanute
went to Kennington (or, according to another ac-
count, to Lambeth), in order to honour the nuptial
feast of a Danish lord ; and there, within sight of
the river on the banks of which Harold's corse
had been washed by the stream, he fell dead,
amidst the shouting and drinking of the guests
a.ssembled at the marriage banquet.

In 1 189, Richard of tlie Lion Heart granted the
manor to Sir Robert Percy ; and it was afterwards
the subject of frequent royal grants. As stated
above, it seems to have been rather a favourite
residence of Edward the Black Prince ; and the
road by which he reached the palace from the
landing-place at the water-side, following the direc-
tion of Upper Kennington Lane, still retains the
name of Prince's Road. Here <lied that powerful
vassal of Edward I., John, I'.arl of \\'arrcn and
Surrey, in September, 1304.

Again, the kings of Scotland, France, and Cyprus
being in Kn^land in the year 1363, on a visit to
Edward III., Henry Picard, who had been lord
mayor, had the honour of entertaining here those

monarchs, with the Prince of Wales and other
illustrious persons. At another time, the citizens
gave a grand masquerade on horseback for the
amusement of the Black Prince's son, Richard
(then in his tenth year), and his mother, Joan of
Kent. The procession set out from Newgate,
and proceeded to Kennington, and was composed
of stately pageants, in masques, one of which
represented the pope and twenty-four cardinals.
This "great mummery" consisted of 130 citizens
in fancy dresses, with trumpets, sackbuts, and
minstrels ; and they danced and " mummed " to
their hearts' content in the great hall of the palace;
after which, having been right royally feasted, they
returned again to the City by way of London
Bridge.

Nineteen years afterwards, when the young
king wanted money, and to that end made up
his mind to take a second wife, he married Isabel,
daughter of Charles VI. of France — the "little
queen," as she was pettingly styled, for she was
but a child, under eight years of age. The royal
train, on approaching London, was met on Black-
heath* by the lord mayor and aldermen, habited
in scarlet, who attended the king to Newington
(Surrey), where he dismissed them, as he and his
youthful bride were to " rest at Kenyngtoun."
When the poor child was taken from Kennington
to her lodgings in the Tower, the press to see her
was so great that several persons were crushed to
death on London Bridge— among them the Prior
of Tiptree, in Essex.

At Kennington, John of Gaunt sought refuge
from the citizens, after he had quarrelled with the
Bishop of London. The proud Lancaster was one
of the protectors of Wyclif, who was, of course,
particularly unpopular with the prelates, and had
bearded the bishop in a very irreverent manner.
The good churchmen of London, who had small
respect for royalty when royalty chanced to offend
them, chased the ducal offender in the very same
year in which they danced before his nci)hcw,
and he was glad to be quiet for some time in
the old palace. His son, the fiery Bolingbroke,
after he became king, sometimes resided here, as
did his grandson, the unfortunate Henry VI., and
Henry VII., and Katharine of Arragon. James I.
settled the manor of Kennington on the Prince of
^Vales, and it has ever since formed part of the
princely possessions. The manor had been pur-
chased in November, 1604, by Alleyn, the player,
and founder of Dulwich College, for ^1,065, and
sold five years afterwards by the astute actor — who

• Sec anfe, p. aaj.

Kcnnlnston.]

SIR NOEL CARON.

333

knew how to turn a penny, and made good use of
his savings — for _;£'2,ooo. It was of him, probably,
that it was purchased by James I., who rebuilt
the manor-house. The last fragment of the old
palace — the " Old Barn," or " Long Barn " — re-
mained till near the close of the last century ; and
the old manor-house itself, having served for some
years as a Female Philanthropic School, finally
disappeared in 1875. From an account of the
building, published at the time of its demolition,
we gather the following interesting particulars : —
The first object which struck the visitor was the
canopied head to the outer doorway, supported
by finely carved trusses. The entrance door was
very massive, and the large lock and unwieldy bar
were suggestive of the times when every precaution
was necessary for the safe custody of property. The
rooms were square and lofty, with old-fashioned
chimney-openings. The finest specimen of deco-
rative art was, without doubt, the modelled plaster
ceiling in the back room. The enrichments were
finely undercut and in alto-relief, the mouldings ,
and border being in true character with the other
portions. The staircase was of massive oak, and ,
the mouldings cut in the solid. The doors and j
the wainscot dado were also solid oak, the latter |
being a particularly fine specimen of wainscoting.
The substantial timbers, door, and window-frames
and heads to the last were in an excellent state of
preservation. The estate having been leased to a
speculative builder, the old house was demolished
in order to make room for modern residences.

Here, on a waste piece of land belonging to the
Prince of Wales, as part of the old royal palace
and demesne, lay for some years a quantity of the
marble statues which had been removed from
Arundel House, in the Strand, and which after-
wards decorated " Kuper's Gardens," the site of
which we shall presently visit. Here they were
discovered by connoisseurs, and were purchased,
some by Lord Burlington for his villa at Chiswick,
and others by Mr. Freeman, of Fawley Court, near
Henley-on-Thames, and by Mr. Edmund Waller, of
Beaconsfield. Others were cut up and used to
make mantel-pieces for private houses in Lambeth.

It would appear that Kennington is still re-
garded as an appanage of royalty ; at all events,
it gave the title of earl to the hero of CuUoden,
William the " butcher," Duke of Cumberland, the
younger son of George II. The duke's name was
till lately kept in remembrance here by Cumberland
Row, close by the Vestry Hall, Kennington Green :
it was a low row of cottages, bearing date 1666.
Their unfinished carcases had been used as a lazar-
house during the great plague of the previous year.

The Prince of Wales, it may be added, is still the
ground landlord of several streets in Kennington.

The manor of Kennington subsequently reverted
to the Crown, and was granted by Charles 1., when
Prince of Wales, to Sir Noel Caron and Sir Francis
Cottington. Sir Noel Caron was Dutch Ambassador
to the English Court during the early part of the
seventeenth century. He erected here a handsome
mansion, with two wings. On the front was the
inscription, " Omne solum forti patria." He built
also on the roadside the almshouses near the third
mile-stone for seven poor women. His name is
inscribed on their front, with the date, i6i8, and a
Latin inscription to the effect that " He that hath
pity on the poor lendeth to the Lord." Caron
House, and the gardens attached to it, are memo-
rable as having been granted by Charles II. to
Lord Chancellor Clarendon, who sold them to Sir
Jeremias Whichcote. The London Gazette tells us
that the prisoners from the Fleet were removed
hither after the Fire of London ; it was pulled
down soon after, and the last remains of the house
were removed early in the present century. What
remained of it in 1806, when Hughson wrote his
" History of London and its Suburbs," was used as
an academy, and still retained its former name of
Caron House. Not far from it was — and perhaps
still is — a spring of clear water called Vau.xhall
Well, which is said not to freeze in the very
coldest winters.

A portion of the site of Sir Noel Caron's park is
absorbed in the well-known cricket-ground called
Kennington Oval, wliich shares with "Lord's"*
the honour of being the scene of many of those
doughty encounters between the heroes of the
bat and ball which have made the " elevens " of
the north and south, of Surrey and Nottingham,
Kent and Sussex, United and All England, all but
immortal. The Oval, which, within the memory
of living persons, was a cabbage-garden, covers
about nine acres of ground, and is set apart
entirely for cricket-matches. It was first opened
as a cricket-ground on the i6th of April, 1846,
as the speculation of a man named Houghton.
The Surrey Club have held it for many years on
a lease from the Duchy of Cornwall, to which the
land hereabouts still belongs ; a fact which is kept
in remembrance by the "Duchy Arms" inn, "Corn-
wall " Cottages, &c.

In Meadow Street, which testifies to the once
rural character of this locality, stands, in grounds
of its own, St. Joseph's Convent belonging to the
Little Sisters of the Poor, a community about whom

* See Vol. v., p. 26a

334

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Kennington.

we shall have more to say when we pay a visit to
their chief house at Hammersmith.

In South Lambeth, on the south of Fentiman
Road, which crosses the Oval Road, is the exten-
sive vinegar distillery of the Messrs. Beaufoy, which
was removed here many years ago from Cuper's
Gardens. The works, which cover a space of
about five acres, occupy the site of Caron House.

Nearly adjoining to the distillery, southward, is,
or was till a recent date, the residence of John
Tradescant, the botanist. The house, a plain brick
building, with a court-yard in front and large iron 1
gates, had attached to it the physic-garden of the
Tradescants, one of the first established in this
country. Tradescant's museum was frequently
visited by persons of rank, who became benefactors
thereto ; among these were Charles L (to whom he
was gardener). Queen Henrietta Maria, Archbishop
Laud, George, Duke of Buckingham, Robert and
William Cecil, Earls of Salisbury, and many other
persons of distinction. Among them also appears
the philosophic John Evelyn, who, in his " Diary,"
under date of September 17, 1657, has the fol-
lowing entry : — " I went to see Sir Robert Need-
ham, at Lambeth, a relation of mine, and thence
to John Tradescant's museum." Evelyn also speaks
of supping at John Tradescant's house, in company
with Dr. (subsequently Archbishop) Tenison, the
Bishop of St. Asaph, and Lady Clarendon.

" I know," writes Izaak Walton, in his "Complete
Angler," " we islanders are averse to the belief of
wonders ; but there be so many strange creatures
to be now seen, many collected by John Trades-
cant, and others added by my friend Elias Ash-
mole, Esq., who now keeps them carefully and
methodically at his house near to Lambeth, near
London, as may yet get belief of some of the
other wonders I mentioned. I will tell you some
of the wonders that you may now see, and not till
then believe, unless you think fit. You may see
there the hog-fish, the dog-fish, the dolphin, the
coney-fish, the parrot-fish, the shark, the jjoison-
fish, the sword-fish ; and not only other incredible
fish, but you may there see the salamander, several
sorts of barnacles, of Solan geese, and the bird of
paradise ; such sorts of snakes, and such birds'-
nests, and of so various forms and so wonderfiiUy
made, as may beget wonder and amazement in any
beholder ; and so many hundreds of other rarities
in that collection, as will make the other wonders I
spake of the less incredible."

The Tradescants were the first well-known col-
lectors of natural curiosities in this kingdom ; they
were followed by Ashmole and Sir Hans Sloane,
from whom their spirit was afterwards transfused

into Sir Ashton Lever, whose collection we men-
tioned in our account of Leicester Square.* It
was a great misfortune that the collection, instead
of being sold in lots by auction, was not secured
for the British Museum.

There are portraits of the Tradescants to be
seen in the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford. It is
usually said that it was the elder Tradescant who
first introduced apricots into England, by entering
himself on board of a privateer armed against
Morocco, whence he stole that fruit which it was
forbidden to export.

In Allen's " History of Surrey" we read : — " On
the death of John Tradescant, Dr. Ducarel says
his son sold the curiosities to the celebrated Elias
Ashmole ; but Mr. Nichols, in a note, observes that
the doctor must be in error, for, according to the
diary of Ashmole, it appears that on December 15,
1659, Mr. Tradescant and his wife signed a deed
of gift to Ashmole. The house was purchased,
about 1760, of some of Ashmole's descendants, by
John Small, Esq. Dr. Ducarel's house, once a
part of Tradescant's, adjoins."

Kennington Park, which stretches for some
distance along the Kennington Road, and lies to
the east of the Oval, was known as Kennington
Common till only a few years ago, when it was a
dreary piece of waste land, covered partly with
short grass, and frequented only by boys flying
their kites or playing at marbles. It was encircled
with some tumble-down wooden rails, which were
not sufficient to keep donkeys from straying there.
Field preachers also made it one of the chief
scenes of oratorical display. It consisted of about
twenty acres. It was suddenly seized with a fit of
respectability, and clothed itself around with elegant
iron railings, its area being, at the same time, cut up
by gravel walks, and flower-beds, and shrubberies.
It also engaged a beadle to look after it. And so
it became a park, and — it must be owned — an
ornament to the neighbourhood.

The Common is described in the " Tour round
London," in 1774, as "a small spot of ground on
the road to Camberwell, and about a mile and a
half from London. Upon this spot is erected the
gallows for the county of Surrey ; but few have
suffered here of late years. Such of the (Scottish)
rebels as wore tried by the Special Commission, in
1746, and ordered for execution, sufiered at this
place ; amongst whom were those who commanded
the regiment raised at Manciiester for the use
(service) of the Pretender." In fact, very many of
those who had " been out " in the Scottish rising of

Sec Vol. III., p. 165.

KenninRton ]

EXECUTION OF THE SCOTTISH REBELS.

335

the previous year here suffered the last penalty of
the law. Among them were Sir John Wedderburn,
John Hamilton, Andrew Wood, and Alexander
Leith, and also two English gentlemen of good
family, named Towneley and Fletcher, who had
joined the standard of " Bonny Prince Charlie " at
Manchester.* Wood, it is said, bravely drank a
glass to the " Pretender's " health on the scaffold.
Others engaged in the same cause also suftered
here ; among them Captain James (or, as he is still
called, "Jemmy") Dawson, over whose body, as
soon as the headsman's axe had done its terrible
work, a yotmg lady, who was attached to him ten- ^
derly, threw herself in a swoon, and died Hterally
of a broken heart. The event forms the subject of j
one of Shenstone's ballads :^

" Young Dawson was a gallant boy,
A brighter never trod the plain ;
And well he loved one charming maid,

And dearly was he loved again. ... I

"The dismal scene was o'er and past,
The lover's mournful hearse retired ;
The maid drew back her languid head,
And, sighing forth his name, expired."

Dawson and eight others were dragged on
hurdles from the new gaol in Southwark to Ken- 1
nington Common, and there hanged. After being
suspended for three minutes from the gallows, their
bodies were stripped naked and cut down, in
order to undergo the operation of beheading and
embowelling. Colonel Towneley was the first that
was laid upon the block, but the executioner ob-
serving the body to retain some signs of life, he
struck it violently on the breast, for the humane
purpose of rendering it quite insensible for the
remaining portion of the punishment. This not
having the desired effect, he cut the unfortunate
gentleman's throat. The shocking ceremony of
taking out the heart and tlirowing the bowels into
the fire was then gone tlirough, after which the
head was separated from the body with a cleaver,
and both were put into a coffin. The rest of the
bodies were thus treated in succession ; and on
throwing the last heart into the fire, which was that
of young Dawson, the executioner cried, " God
save King George ! " and the spectators responded
with a shout. Although the rabble had hooted
the unhappy gentlemen on the passage to and
from their trials, it was remarked that at the
execution their fate excited considerable pity,
mingled with admiration of their courage. Two
circumstances contributed to increase the public
sympathy on this occasion, and caused it to be

more generally expressed. The first was, the ap-
pearance at the place of execution of a youthful
brother of one of the culprits, of the name of
Deacon, himself a culprit, and under sentence of
death for the same crime, but who had been per-
mitted to attend the last scene of his brother's Hfe
in a coach along with a guard. The other was the
fact of a young and beautiful woman, to whom
Dawson had been betrothed, actually attending to
witness his execution, as stated above.

Most of the rebel lords, and of the others who
had borne a share in the Scottish rising of 1745,
and who were found guilty of treason, were
executed on Tower Hill, as already stated.f Their
heads, as well as the heads of those executed here,
were afterwards set up on poles on the top of
Temple Bar, J where we have already seen them
bleaching in the sun and rain. Here also was hung
the notorious highwayman, "Jerry Abershaw;" his
body being afterwards hung in chains on a gibbet
on Wimbledon Common.

In the spring of 184S, just after the Revolution
which drove Louis Philippe from Paris, Kennington
Common obtained a temporary celebrity as the
intended rallying-point of the Chartists of London,
who, it was said, were half a million in number ;
but of this number only about 15,000 actually
assembled ; had the half a million met, tliey would
have required nearly ten times the space of
Kennington Comtnon ! On the loth of April
the great meeting came off; they were to march
thence in procession to Westminster, in order to
present a monster petition in favour of the six
points of the charter, signed by six millions. But
measures were prudently taken by the Government ;
the Bank and other public bnildings were strictly
guarded ; the military were called out, and posted
in concealed positions near the bridges; and
170,000 special constables were enrolled, among
' whom was Louis Napoleon, the future Emperor of
France. On the eventful day the working men
■ who answered to the call of their leaders— Feargus
O'Connor and Ernest Jones— were found to be
scarcely 50,000, and these gentlemen shrank from
a contest with the soldiery. So the crowd broke
up, and the petition was presented peaceably.

" Modern times," writes Mr. W. Johnston, in his
" England as it Is," " have afforded no such
important illustration of the prevailing tone and
temper of the British nation, in regard to public
affairs, as was presented to the world by the
circumstances of the metropolis during the event-
ful 10th of April, 1848. That day was, in the

• See ante, p. 58.

t Sec Vol. i: , p 95.

; Sec Vol. I., p. =S.

Kenuiiigton.l

THE CHARTISTS.

337

British Islands, the culminating point of the
revolutionary progress which, within a period of
little more than two months, had shaken almost
every throne of Continental Europe. In England
nothing was shaken but the hopes of the dis-
nffected. From one end of Europe to the other,
the loth of April was looked forward to by the
partisans of revolution as the day which was to
add London to the list of capitals submitting to

Continental Europe, was frozen into fear by the
calm, complete, and stem preparation which was
made to encounter and to crush it. The spirit
of Wellington was equal to the occasion, and
seemed to pervade the might and the energy of
the vast metropolis of England while that veteran

was at the head of the resisting power

The loth of April seemed, as if by mutual consent,
to be the day of trial between the rival forces of

TRADEsCANT'S HOUSK, SOUIH LAMBEIH. (Fixmi Ptiuianl.)

the dictation of the mob. The spirit of revolt had i
run like wildfire from kingdom to kingdom, and
capital to capital. Paris, Vienna, Naples, Berlin,
Dresden, Milan, Venice, Palermo, Frankfort, and
Carlsruhe, had all experienced the revolutionary
shock, and none had been able completely to
withstand it. Now came the turn of London, the
greatest capital of all — the greatest prize that the
world could afford to revolutionary adventure —
the most magnificent prey to the bands of the
plunderers who moved about from one point of
Europe to another, committing robberies under
the name of revolution. London withstood the
shock, and escaped without the slightest injury.
Even the wild spirit of revolt, made drunk by the
extraordinary success it had achieved throughout
269

revolution and of authority, and it then plainly
appeared, without any actual coUision, that the
revolutionists had no chance. tlW their points of
attack had been anticipal-ed. Everywhere there
was preparation to receive them, and yet nothing
was so openly done as to produce a sense of
public alarm. London was armed to the teeth :
and yet, in outward appearance, it was not changed.
The force that had been prepared lay hushed in
grim repose, and was kept out of sight. The
revolutionary leaders were, however, made aware
of the consequences that would ensue if they went
one step beyond that which the authorities deemed
to be consistent with the public safety. Foolish
and frantic though they were in their political
talk, they were not so mad as to rush upon certain

338

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Kennington.

destruction. They gave up the conflict ; and from
that day the spirit of revolution in England drooped
and died away. The political conspirators against
existing authority failed utterly, not because they
were destitute of the enthusiasm meet for such
an occasion, or that there were no real grievances
in the condition of the people which called for
redress, but because the nation had common sense
enough to perceive that the ascendancy of such
desperate adventurers would make matters worse
than better. It was not that the Londoners had
no taste for political improvement, but it was that
they had a very decided distaste for being robbed.
Not only was all the inteUigence, the organisa-
tion, and the resource of the country arrayed in
opposition to the mode of political action which
the revolutionists of Europe had adopted, but the
familiar instincts of the hundreds of thousands
who had property to guard and hearths to preserve
inviolate arraye.d them in determined resistance
to mob violence, whatever might be the avowed
object to which that violence should be directed."
Thus, in the words of the Times, " The great de-
monstration was brought to a ridiculous issue by
the unity and resolution of the metropolis, backed
by the judicious measures of the Government, and
the masterly military precautions of the Duke of
Wellington, though no military display was any-
where to be seen."

During the holiday season, Kennington Common
in the last century was an epitome of " Bartlemy
Fair," with booths, tents, caravans, and scaffolds,
surmounted by flags. It also had one peculiarity,
for, as we learn from " Merrie England in the
Olden Time," it was a favourite spot for merry-
andrews, and other buffooneries in open rivalry
and competition with field-preachers and ranters.
It was here that Mr. Maw-worm encountered the
brickbats of his congregation, and had his " pious
tail " illuminated with the squibs and crackers of
the unregenerate.

During the year 1739, when the south of London
was a pleasant country suburb, George Whitefield
preached frequently on this common, his audience
being generally reckoned by tens of thousands.
In his "Journal," under date May 6th in that
year, he thus remarks : " Preached this morning in
Moorfields to about 20,000 people, who were very
quiet and attentive, and much affected. Went to
public worship morning and evening, and at six
preached at Kennington. But such a sight never
were my eyes blessed with before. I believe there
were no less than 50,000 people, near fourscore
coaches, besides great numbers of horses ; and
what is most remarkable, there was such an awful

silence amongst them, and the word of God came
with such power, that all, I believe, were pleasingly
surprised. God gave me great enlargement of heart.
I continued my discourse for an hour and a half;
and when I returned home, I was filled with such
love, peace, and joy, that I cannot express it."
On subsequent occasions Mr. Whitefield mentions
having addressed audiences of 30,000, 20,000, and
10,000 on this same spot. The example thus set
by Whitefield was soon afterwards followed by
Charles Wesley, with an equal amount of fervour.
In June, 1739, Charles Wesley being summoned
before the Archbishop of Canterbury to give an
account of his " irregularity," he was for a time
greatly troubled ; but Whitefield, whom he had
consulted for advice in this emergency, told him,
" Preach in the fields next Sunday ; by this step
you will break down the bridge, render your retreat
difficult, or impossible, and be forced to fight your
way forward." This counsel was followed, for in
Charles Wesley's diary, June 24th, 1739, occurs
this passage : — " I walked to Kennington Common,
and cried to multitudes upon multitudes, ' Repent
ye, and believe the Gospel.' The Lord was my
strength, and my mouth, and my wisdom."

" Kennington Common," wrote Thomas Miller,
in his " Picturesque Sketches in London," pub-
lished in 1852, " is but a name for a small grassless
square, surrounded with houses, and poisoned by
the stench of vitriol works, and by black, open,
sluggish ditches ; what it will be when the promised
alterations are completed, we have yet to see."
That the place, however, has since become com-
pletely changed in appearance we have already
seen, for it was converted into a public pleasure-
ground, under the Act 15 and 16 Vict., in June of
the above-mentioned year. It now affords a very
pretty promenade. What was once but a dismal
waste, some twenty acres in extent, is now laid out
in grass-plats, intersected by broad and well-kept
gravelled walks bordered with flower-beds. A
pair of the model farm-cottages of the late Prince
Consort were erected in the middle of the western
side, near the entrance, about the year 1850.
More recently, in addition to the improvements
effected by the change of the Common to an
ornamental promenade, a church, dedicated to St.
Agnes, was built on the site of the vitriol works
which once poisoned the surrounding atmosphere.

On the first formation of the " park," the sum
of ^1,800 annually was voted by the Govern-
ment, but this sum was subsequently reduced ;
and the reductions were made although there had
been an increase in the total sum devoted to
public parks.

Keiinington.1

ST. MARK'S CHURCH.

339

On the eastern side of the Common, in the
middle of the last century, stood a mansion, once
the residence of Sir Richard Manley. It is near
the site of this mansion, occupying, as we have
said, the site of the vitriol works, and directly facing
the central paths of the ornamental garden, that the
church of St. Agnes stands. The edifice, which was
erected from the designs of Sir G. Gilbert Scott,
is in the EngUsh Middle Pointed style of archi-
tecture of the fourteenth century; and it depends
mainly for its efifect upon its loftiness, the height
being sixty-five feet from the floor to the nave
ceiling, and seventy-five feet to the external ridge,
and the chancel roof of the same height. The
most important feature in the decorative work of
the church is the east window of six lights, illus-
trating the doctrines of the Incarnation and the
Atonement, the stained glass of which, costing
;^i,ooo, was executed by Mr. C. E. Kempe, and
forms a memorial to the lady who was the chief
benefactress of the church. The illustration of the
Incarnation was "A Tree of Jesse," or genealogical
tree of Christ's progenitors, of which the Virgin
Mary, holding the Divine Child in her arms,
formed the principal figure, the Virgin's head being
crowned. When, in accordance with customary
usage, the building was inspected by the bishop's
representative, the archdeacon, the existence of this
design was mentioned, and before the ceremony
of consecration was performed, the figure of the
Blessed Virgin was removed by the bishop's
desire.

On the southern portion of the Common, on the
upper part of a small triangular plot of ground,
separated from the larger portion of the Common
by the road to Brixton and the Camberwell New
Road, stands St. Mark's Church, the second of the
district churches erected in this parish. What is
now the site of the church was formerly the spot
where the gallows were erected for the execution
of criminals ; and it is rendered more interesting
by its being the actual spot where many of the un-
fortunate adherents to the expatriated family of the
Stuarts fell a sacrifice to their principles, as we
have stated above. In preparing the foundation
of the church, the site of a gibbet was discovered ;
and a curious piece of iron, which it is supposed
was the swivel attached to the head of a criminal,
was turned up a foot or two below the surface.

St. Mark's Church, which was finished in 1824,
from the designs of Mr. D. Roper, consists of two
distinct portions. The body of the edifice is a
long octagon — a parallelogram, with the corners
cut off. The eastern end is brought out, to form a
tecess for the communion-table, and to the western

end is attached the tower, sided by lobbies, con-
taining staircases to the galleries ; and the whole
is fronted by a portico, formed of four columns,
supporting an entablature of the Greek Doric
order, finished with a pediment. The tower, which
is square and massive, is surmounted by a circular
structure, composed of fluted Ionic columns, and
finished with a plain spherical cupola, on the apex
of which is a stone cross of elegant design. The
main portion of the church is constructed of brick,
and has stone pilasters attached to the piers
between the windows, which are singularly plain
and uninteresting. The interior of the church,
beyond its elliptically-coved ceiling, ornamented at
intervals with groups of foliage, contains nothing
to call for special remark.

Along the south side of the churchyard once ran
a small stream, which was crossed by a bridge,
called Merton Bridge, from its formerly having
been repaired by the canons of Merton Abbey,
who had lands bequeathed to them for that
purpose.

Opposite the western gates of the park, and at
the entrance to Kennington Road, is the " Horns
Tavern." It stands at the junction of the roads
leading to London and Westminster Bridges ; and
the assembly-rooms adjoining have for many years
been a great place for public meetings. There is
nothing, so far as we are aware, to connect this inn
with such ceremonies as those formerly enacted at
Highgate* and at Charlton, f in which, as we have
shown, the " horns " played such a conspicuous
part ; it may have been that a former landlord was
desirous of emulating the reputation enjoyed by
his professional brethren at Highgate.

Pursuing our course along Kennington Road, we
pass the site formerly occupied by the waterworks
of the South London Company. In 1805 an Act of
Parliament was passed for establishing the above-
mentioned company, who were "to form reservoirs
near Kennington Green, to be supplied from the
Thames along Vauxhall Creek, or at a creek on the
other side of Cumberland Gardens, between that
and Marble Hall, all in this parish." The work
was undertaken; a field of five acres, between
Kennington Lane and the Oval, was procured, on
which two reservoirs were formed, with steam-
engines and the requisite offices and buildings.
In 1807 the proprietor celebrated the completion
of the undertaking by giving a public breakfast.
The reservoirs were intended to bring the water
into a state of purity before it was distributed ; but
it was found that they did not answer thoroughly,

See Vol. v., p. 413.

t See ante, p. 233.

340

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[KenningtoD.

and s. change of site had to be made for the
engine-house.

At the point where the road turns off from
Kennington Lane to the Oval, was in former times
a noted place of entertainment, known as Spring
Garden."* Bray, in his "History of Surrey,"
says that Moncony mentions a Spring Garden
at Lambeth as much frequented in 1663. The
gardens were at one time held by Mrs. Cornelys,
of whom we have already had occasion to speak in
our account of Soho Square.t Mrs. Cornelys, we
are told, had " a large white house for entertain-
ment ;" but being frequented by loose and dissolute
persons, it was suppressed by the magistracy.

In Upper Kennington Lane, which runs from
Kennington Cross to Vauxhall Bridge, is the Licensed
Victuallers' School, an establishment more to be re-
garded for the benevolent views of its patrons than
for the architectural beauty of the building which
contains the objects of their protection. The society
was established in the year 1803, and is supported
by the respectable body of licensed victuallers of
the metropolis as an asylum and school for the
orphans and children of the destitute part of their
brethren. A portion of the profits of their trade
journal, the Moniing Advertiser, is also added to
its funds. The building is a series of dwelling-
houses, added together at various times, as the
funds and objects of the institution increased, and
is therefore little else than a substantial commodious
edifice, with a spacious playground and gardens,
located in an airy situation. Its original design
has been somewhat improved by a central tablet
of stucco over the pedimented door as a sort of
centre. The building was constructed with the
view of accommodating two hundred children.
Great exertions have been made to realise this
design, and by the admission of all the approved
candidates for three successive years, it was all but
accomplished.

At various times, Kennington has been the
residence of many eminent persons, among whom
we may mention John, seventh Earl of Warrenne
and Surrey, father-in-law of John Balliol, wlio died
here in 1304; David Ricardo, the celebrated
political economist ; the Duke of Brunswick ;
William Hogarth ; and Eliza Cook, who lived here
for many years. It has also been the home of
many persons connected with the theatres. I lore
died, in 1877, Mr. E. T. Smith, of Cremorne, the
Alhambra, and Drury Lane celebrity.

Kennington in its day has seen its deeds of
violence; for it appears that in 1323 Elizabeth,

• Sto Vol. IV., p. 77.

t .Sm Vol. III., p. lin

the wife of Sir Richard Talbot, of Goderich Castle,
in Herefordshire, was forcibly seized at her house
in this parish by Hugh Despencer, Earl of Glou-
cester, in conjunction with his father, Hugh, Earl
of Winchester, and carried off. It is satisfactory
to know that for this act the Despencers suffered
the extreme penalty of the law ; the head of the
younger one being set up on London Bridge.
Their estate, of course, became confiscated and
pounced upon by royalty ; and the king very
naturally bestowed it on the Prince of Wales, to
whom it still belongs.

Before closing this chapter, we may remark that
the maypole nearest to the metropolis that stood
longest within the memory of the editor of the
" Beauties of England and Wales," was near
Kennington Green, at the back of the houses at
the south-west corner of the Workhouse Lane,
leading from the Vauxhall Road to Elizabedi
Place. The site was then nearly vacant, and the
maypole stood in the field on the south side of the
Workhouse Lane, nearly opposite to the " Black
Prince" public-house. It remained there till about
the year 1795, and was much frequented, par-
ticularly by the milkmaids, on May-day. The
maypoles in the country were the scenes of much
simplicity of rural manners and innocent mirth and
enjoyment ; but those set up near London, it is to
be feared, were provocative of far more boisterous
rudeness. In 151 7 the unfortunate shaft, or may-
pole, gave rise to the insurrection of that turbulent
body, the London apprentices, and the plundering
of the foreigners in the City, whence it got the
name of Evil May-day. " From that time," writes
the author of "Merrie England in the Olden
Time," " the offending pole was hung on a range
of hooks over the doors of a long row of neigh-
bouring houses. In the third year of Edward VI.,
an over-zealous fanatic, called Sir Stephen, began to
preach against this maypole, which inllamed the
audience so greatly that the owner of every house
over which it hung sawed off as much as depended
over his premises, and committed piecemeal to the
flames this terrible idol ! " Like the morri.s-dancers,
and the hobby-horse, and other mucli-applauded
merriments of Old England, the maypole in the
end has become a tiling of the past, for they were
put down or allowed to pass into oblivion.

The old Roman road, or Watling Street, for a
short distance, intersected the north-eastern corner
of Surrey in its progress from Vagniach (supposed
by anticjuaries to lie near Southfleet in Kent) to
London, .skirting the eastern side of Kennington.
This road is presumed to have passed through Old
Croydon or Woodcote, Slrcath.un, and Ncwington,

St. George's Fields.]

CANUTE'S TRENCH.

341

to Stone Street in Southwark. If, as some writers
have supposed, the ancient Noviomagus was at
Old Croydon, the Ermyn Street must have followed
nearly the present line of roads through Streatham,

Kennington, and Newington, into Southwark ; and
thence it was continued in a northward direction
by way of Stoke Newington, as we have already
mentioned in a former volume.*

CHAPTER XXVI.
ST. GEORGE'S FIELDS.

" Saint George's Fields are fields no more,
The trowel supersedes the plough ;
Huge inundated swamps of yore
Are changed to civic villas now."

St. George's Fields in the Time of the Roman Occupation— Canute's Trench— Charles II. entertained at St. George's Fields on his Restoration—
The Populace resort hither during the Great Fire— The Character of St. George's Fields in the Last Century— The Apollo Gardens- The
"Dog and Duck" Tavern— St. George's Spa— A Curious Exhibition— The Wilkes' Kiots— The Gordon Riots— Death of Lord George
Gordon— Gradual Advance of Building in St. George's Fields— The Magdalen Hospital— Pcabody Buildings— The Asylum for Female
Orphans — The Philanthropic Society — The School for the Indigent IJlind — The Obelisk.

In the above lines, the Brothers Smith, the authors
of the "Rejected Addresses," in 1812, lamented
the decline alike of sports and of rural beauty,
v.'hich were once the chief characteristics of this
locality ; but even this description has long ceased
to be applicable. Perhaps the following stanza,
though less poetic, quoted from Tallis's " Illustrated
London," would present the reader of to-day with
a more faithful character of St. George's Fields : —

"Thy 'civic villas,' witty Smith,

Have fled, as well as woodland copse ;
Where erst the water-lily bloomed
Are planted rows of brokers' shops."

St George's Fields were named after the ad-
jacent church of St. George the Martyr, and appear
once to have been marked by all the floral beauty
of meadows, uninvaded by London smoke. We
learn from Mr. Cunningham that Gerard came
here to collect specimens of his " Herbal." " Of
water-violets," he says, " I have not found such
plenty in any one place as the water ditches
adjoining St. George his fielde near London."
And yet these " fields," together with Lambeth
Marsh — which lies between them and the Thames
— were at one time almost covered with water at
every high tide, and across them the Romans
threw embanked roads, and on them they reared
villas, after the Dutch suinmer-house fashion, on
piles. Indeed, St. George's Fields were certainly
occupied by the Romans, for large quantities of
Roman remains, coins, tesselated pavements, urns,
and bones have been found there. They formed
probably one of the astira, or summer camps ; for
in the winter a great part of them, now known
as Lambeth Marsh and Marsh Gate, was under
water. It is not stated when all this ground was
first drained ; but various ancient commissions are

remaining for persons to survey the banks of the
river, here and in the adjoining parishes, and to
take measures for repairing them, and to impress
such workmen as they should find necessary for
that employmerit ; notwithstanding which, these
periodical overflows continued to do considerable
mischief; and Strype, in his edition of Stow's
"Survey," informs us that, so late as 1555, owing
to this cause and some great rains which had
then fallen, all St. George's Fields were covered
with water. Inundations, therefore, are no novelty
to the lands on the south of the Thames near
London.

In 1016, as we have already had occasion to
observe,! Canute laid siege to London ; but find-
ing that the bridge was so strongly fortified by
the citizens that he could not come up with his
vessels to make any impression on the Thames
side of the place, he projected the design of
making a canal through St. George's Fields, then
marshes, wide and deep enough to convey his
ships to the west of the bridge, and to enable him
by that means to invest the town on all sides.
The line of this canal, called " Canute's Trench,"
ran from the great wet dock, below Rotherhithe,
through Newington, to the river Thames again at
Chelsea Reach ; but its exact course cannot now
be traced.

Dr. Wallis, in a letter to Samuel Pepys, dated in
1699, speaks of having walked, fifty years before,
from Stangate, close by Westminster Bridge, to
Redriff [Rotherhithe], " across the fields " to Lam-
beth, meaning there to cross the Thames to West-
minster. On this occasion, he wTites, a friend
" showed me in the passage diverse remains of the

SeeVoL V., p. S3i.

t See antf, p. 132.

342

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

'St. GeorEc's Fields.

old channel which had been heretofore made from
Redriff to Lambeth for diverting the Thames whilst
London Bridge was a-building, all in a straight line
or near it, but with great intervals which had long
since been filled up ; those remains which then
appeared so visible, are now, I suspect, all or most
of them filled up, for . . . people in those
marshes would be more fond of so much meadow
grounds than to let those lakes remain unfilled."

1666, that many of the poor people, who had lost
their homes in the City, were dispersed about
St. George's Fields ; " some under miserable huts
and hovels, many without a rag or any necessary
utensils, bed or board, who from delicatenesse,
riches, and easy accommodation in stately and well-
furnished houses, were now reduced to extreamest
misery and poverty."

St. George's Fields, down to the commencement

VS" TAVERN, KENNINGTON, IN 1S2O. {See p. 339.)

In the same letter he speaks of the southern shore
of the river as " full of flags and reeds."

St. George's Fields have not been unvisited by
royalty, for we are told that at the happy Restora-
tion, on the 29th of May, 1660, the Lord Mayor
and Aldermen of London met Charles II., in his
journey from Dover to London, in St. George's
Fields, where a magnificent tent was erected, and
the king was provided with a sumptuous banquet
before entering the City.

These fields, according to Pepys and Evelyn,
were one of the places of refuge to which the
poorer citizens retreated with such of their goods
and chattels as they could save from the Fire of
London in 1666.

We read in Evelyn's " Diary," in September,

of the present century, comprised broad open
meadows, and stretched from Blackman Street,
Borough, to the Kennington Road. Dirty ditches
intersected them, travelling .show-vans and huts
on wheels were s(|uattcd there, and rusty old
boilers and pipes rotted by the roadside. They
were places, as we read in Malcolm, much resorted
to by field-preachers, who, during the reign of the
Stuart sovereigns, were not allowed to hold forth
ill London.

Several of the names of the particular plots of
land, during the unbuilt state of St. George's
Fields, are transmittcil to us in old writings, as
well as some amusing notices of certain places
here, or in the neighbourhood, in scarce books.
Among other documents, the parish records of St.

St. Georg<?s Fields.)

THE "DOG AND DUCK" TAVERN.

343

Saviour's mention Checquer Mead, Lamb Acre,
and an estate denominated the Chimney Sweepers,
as situated in these fields and belonging to that
parish ; as also a large laystall, or common dung-
hill, used by the parishioners, called St. George's
Dunghill. The open part, at the commencement
of the last and end of the preceding century,
like Moorfields, and some other void places near
the metropolis, was appropriated to the practice of
archery, as we learn from a scarce tract published

after an ineffectual struggle, lasting through two or
three seasons, they were finally closed, and the
site was built over." The old orchestra of the
gardens, when taken down, was removed to Sydney
Gardens, at Bath, to be re-erected there.

The " Dog and Duck " grounds were far more
obstinate and also far more unworthy of patronage.
At this place there was a long room, with tables
and benches, and an organ at the upper end, so
that in all probability the place was used for

THE freemasons' CHARITY SCHOOL, ST. GEORGF.'s FIELDS. (Fron an Engraving by Rau'lf, in \'ioo.\

near the time, called "An Aim for those that shoot
in St. George's Fields."

Here were the " Apollo Gardens " and the
" Dog and Duck," both standing till the Regency
of George IV. In point of fashion they were a
direct contrast to Ranelagh, and even to Vauxhall,
to which " the quality" repaired. The former stood
opposite the Asylum in the Westminster Road,
and they were fitted up on the plan of Vauxhall,
though on a smaller scale, by a Mr. Clayett. In
the centre of the gardens was an orchestra, very
large and beautiful. " A want of the rural ac-
companiment of fine trees, their small extent, their
situation, and other causes, soC)n made them the
resort of only low and vicious characters ; and

" popular concerts." The audience was composed
of the riff-raff and scum of the town. Becoming
a public nuisance, the gardens were at length put
down by the magistrates, and Bethlehem Hospital
now occupies the spot which once they covered.
The spot was a noted place of amusement for the
lower middle classes ; and as the name indicates,
it was one of the chief scenes of the brutal diversion
of duck-hunting, which was carried on here, less
than two centuries ago, in a pond or ponds in the
grounds attached to the house. The fun of the
sport consisted in seeing the duck make its escape
from the dog's mouth by diving. It was much
practised in the neighbourhood of London till it
went out of fashion, being superseded by pigeon-

344

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[St. George's Fields.

shooting, and other pastimes equally cruel. In the
seventeenth century the place was celebrated for
its springs. The "Dog and Duck," in its later
days, bore but a bad repute as a regular haunt of
thieves and of other low characters. After a long
existence, during which it frequently figured in
connection with trials for highway robbery and
other crimes, it was suppressed by the order of the
magistrates. Garrick thus alludes to the tavern
and its tea-gardens in his Prologue to the Maid of
the Oaks, 1774: — ■

" St. George's Fields, with taste of fashion struck.
Display Arcadia at the ' Dog and Duck ;
And Drury misses here, in tawdry pride,
A.re there ' Pastoras ' by the fountain side."

It will be remembered that one of the best
scenes in Hannah More's " Cheapside Apprentice "
is laid in the infamous Dog and Duck Fields.

The following interesting extract from a MS. by
Hone, the author of the " Year-Book," is printed
in extenso by Mr. Larwood, in his " History of Sign-
boards : " —

"It (the 'Dog and Duck') was a veiy small
public-house till Hedger's mother took it ; she had
been a barmaid to a tavern-keeper in London, who
at his death left her his house. Her son Hedger
was then a postboy to a yard at Epsom, I believe,
and came to be master there. After making a
good deal of money, he left the house to his nephew,
one Miles, who, though it still went in Hedger's
name, was to allow him ^1,000 a year out of the
profits ; and it was he that allowed the house to
acquire so bad a character that the licence was
taken away. I have this from one William Nelson,
who was servant to old Mrs. Hedger, and re-
members the house before he had it. He is now
(1826) in the employ of the Lamb Street Water-
Works Company, and has been for thirty years.
In particular, there never was any duck-hunting
since he knew the gardens ; therefore, if ever, it
must have been in a very early time indeed.
Hedger, I am told, was the first person who sold
the water (whence the St. George's Spa). In 17S7,
when Hedger applied for a renewal of his licence,
the magistrates of Surrey refused ; and the Lord
Mayor came into Southwark and held a court, and
granted his licence, in despite of the magistrates,
which occasioned a great disturbance and litigation
in the law courts."

A fort, with four half-bulwarks, at the " Dog and
Duck," in St. George's Fields, is mentioned among
the defences of London, set up by order of the
Parliament in 1642.

The old stone sign of the " Dog and Duck ''
tea-gardens is still preserved, embedded in the

brick wall of the garden of Bethlehem Hospital,
visible from the road, and representing a dog
squatting on its haunches with a duck in its mouth,
and bearing the date 17 16.

OLD SIGN OF THE "DOG AND DUCK

A well of water, celebrated for its purgative
qualities, formerly existed near the " Dog and
Duck" grounds. Dr. Fothergill tells us that this
water had gained a reputation for the cure of most
cutaneous disorders, in scrofulous cases, and that
it was useful for keeping the body cool, and pre-
venting cancerous diseases ; but the exact site of
this well is no longer known.

" St. George's Fields," as Malcolm informs us,
" abounded with gardens, where the lower classes
met to drink and smoke tobacco. But those were
not their only amusements. A Mr. Shanks, near
Lambeth Marsh, contrived to assemble his customers
in 171 1 with a grinning match. The prize was a
gold-laced hat ; the competitors were exhilarated
by music and dancing ; the hour of exhibition was
twelve at noon ; the admission sixpence. The
same w.is repeated at six o'clock."

A century ago St. George's Fields became the
scene of very fierce gatherings of the " Wilkes and
Liberty " mobs ; and the populace were very
riotous, clamouring for the release of their dissolute
and witty favourite from the King's Bench. During
the riot which ensued, a young man named AVilliam
Allen was killed by one of the soldiers. Allen was
pursued to the " Horse-shoe Inn," Stones End,
and shot in the inn-yard. He was buried, as we
have seen, in the churchyard at Ncwington,* where
a monument was erected to his memory.

It is not a little strange that the i)ains-taking and
conscientious anti(iuary, Pennant, though he wrote

• Sec atttt, p. 263.

St. George's Fields.]

THE GORDON RIOTS.

345

in 1790, when their memory must have been still
fresh, makes no mention of these fields having
been the head-quarters of the rioters under Lord
George Gordon, who ten years before had well-
nigh set fire to all London. He simply speaks of
these fields as " now the wonder of foreigners
approaching our capital by this road, through
avenues of lamps of magnificent breadth and good-
ness." Whether the " breadth and the goodness "
was predicated by Pennant of the "road" or of
the " lamps " is a little doubtful, more particularly
since he refers, in a foot-note, to some new process
of adulteration of the oil, and tells the following
story almost in the same breath : — ■" I have heard
that a foreign ambassador, who happened to make
his entry at night, imagined that these illuminations
were in honour of his arrival, and, as he modestly
expressed himself, more than he could have ex-
pected ! "

In previous vokmies of this work we have already
spoken of the eft'ects of the Gordon Riots in dif.
ferent parts of the metropolis, particularly in the
burning of Newgate* and the destruction of Lord
Mansfield's house in Bloomsbury Square ;t but
as St. George's Fields formed the rallying-point,
whence the excited mob was to be led on the
House of Commons, some further particulars of
the proceedings of the rioters may not be out of
place here.

A so-called Protestant Association had been
formed in 1779, for the purpose of opposing Sir
George Savile's bill for the abolition of Roman
Catholic disabilities ; and a fanatical Scotch noble-
man, Lord George Gordon, third son of William,
Duke of Gordon, then in his thirtieth year, con-
sented to become president of the association,
which rapidly gained an influence over the lower
classes. Various meetings to arrange for the pre-
sentation of a petition to Parliament against the
repeal of these disabilities had been held in April
and May, 17S0, in the "Crown and Rolls Tavern,"
Chancery Lane, and in the Coachmakers' Hall,
and the presentation was finally agreed upon at
Coachmakers' Hall, on the sgth of May. At this
meeting, which was attended by upwards of 2,000
excited people, under Lord George Gordon's pre-
sidency, a petition was then proposed and carried
to the following effect : —

" Whereas no hall in London can contain 40,000 persons :
resolved, that the Association do meet on Friday next, in
St. George's Fields, at ten o'clock in the morning, to con-
sider the most prudent and respectful manner of attending
their petition, which will be presented the same day in the
House of Commons.

* See Vol. II., p. 442.

t See Vol. IV., p. 539,

" Resolved, for the sake of good order and regularity,
that this Association, in coming to the ground, do separate
themselves into four distinct divisions : viz., the London
division, the Westminster division, the Southwark division,
and the Scotch division.

" Resolved, that the London division do take place upon
the right of the ground towards Southwark, the Westminster
division second, the Southwark division third, and the
Scotch division upon the left, all wearing blue cockades,
to distinguish themselves from the Papists and those who
approve of the late Act in favour of Popery.

" Resolved, that the magistrates of London, Westminster,
and Southwark be requested to attend, that their presence
may overawe and control any riotous or evil-minded persons
who may wish to disturb the legal and peaceable deportment
of His Majesty's Protestant subjects.

" By order of the Association,

" Signed, G. Gordon, President.

" Dated, London, May 29."

The enthusiastic and eccentric president then
addressed the billowy meeting, informing tliem
that the system of different divisions would be
useful, as he could tlien go from one to the other,
and learn the general opinion as to the mode of
taking up the petition. As it was very easy for
one person to sign 400 or 500 names to a petition,
he thought it was better that every one who signed
should appear in person to prove that the names
were all genuine. He begged that they would
dress decently and behave orderly, and, to prevent
riots and to distinguish themselves, they should
wear blue cockades in their hats. Some one had
suggested that, meeting so early, people might get
drinking ; but he held that the Protestant Asso-
ciation were not drunken people, and apprehended
no danger on that account. Some one had also
hinted that so great a number of people being
assembled might lead to the military being drawn
out ; but he did not doubt all the association would
be peaceable and orderly ; and he desired them
not to take even sticks in their hands, and begged
that if there was any riotous person the rest should
give him up.

" If any one was struck, he was not to return the
blow, but seek for a constable. Even if he himself
should be at all riotous, he would wish to be given
up, for he thought it a proper spirit for Protestants,
remembering the text, ' If they smite you on one
cheek, turn the other also.' He concluded by
saying that he hoped no one who had signed
would be afraid or ashamed to show himself in the
cause ; and he begged leave to decline to present
the petition unless he was met in St. George's
Fields by 20,000 people, with some mark of dis-
tinction on, such as a blue ribbon in their hats, so
that he might be able to distinguish their friends
from their foes. He would not present the petition
of a lukewarm people. They must be firm, like

346

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[St. George's Fields.

the Scotch, to carry their point. He himself would
be there to meet them, and would be answerable
for any that were indicted for meeting there;
indeed, he wished so well to the cause that he
would go to the gallows for it (deafening cheers)."

The " true Protestant" rabble, estimated variously
at from 40,000 to 100,000 men, all wearing blue
ribbons, some of which had the words " No
Popery " upon them, met at the appointed day and
hour in St. George's Fields — on the very spot,
singularly enough, as tradition says, where the high
altar of the present Roman Catholic Cathedral is
raised : such is the irony of history. Blue banners
were flying ; and it is said that in the Scotch
division bagpipes were playing. In each of the
four divisions the " true Protestants " marched,
singing hymns, eight or nine abreast, the enormous
tree-trunk of a petition being carried on men's
heads in a conspicuous part of the procession.
They began to advance towards Westminster soon
after twelve, one division marching by Blackfriars
Bridge, the others by London Bridge and West-
minster Bridge. The march was orderly and
decorous ; hitherto the passions of these fanatics
had been restrained ; it was only when the rabble
joined, and a sense of new-felt power came over
thera, that they turned to wild beasts. When they
reached the Houses of Parliament, about half-past
two, the " true Protestants " gave such a shout as
that before which fell the walls of the fated Jericho.
Gibbon, the historian, then a member of the House
of Commons, describes the scene " as if 40,000
Puritans of the days of Cromwell had started from
their graves."

In Boswell's "Life of Johnson" we read that
just when tile great doctor was engaged in preparing
a delightful literary entertainment for the world,
" the tranquillity of the metropolis of Great Britain
was unexpectedly disturbed by the most horrid
series of outrages that ever disgraced a civilised
country. A relaxation of some of the severe
penal provisions against our fellow-subjects of the
Catholic communion had been granted by the
legislature, with an opposition so inconsiderable,
tliat the genuine mildness of Christianity, united
with liberal policy, seemed to have become general
in this island. But a dark and malignant spirit of
persecution soon showed itself in an unworthy peti-
tion for the repeal of the wise and humane statute.
That petition was brought forward by a mob, with
the evident pur])Ose of intimidation, and was justly
rejected. But the attempt was accompanied and
followed by sucli daring violence as is unexampled
in history." Of this extraordinary tumult, Dr. John-
son has given the following concise, lively, and

just account in his " Letters to Mrs. Thrale :" — "On
Friday the good Protestants met in Saint George's
Fields, at the summons of Lord George Gordon,
and, marching to Westminster, insulted the Lords
and Commons, who all bore it with great tameness.
At night the outrages began by the demolition of
the mass-house by Lincoln's Inn. An exact
journal of a week's defiance of government I cannot
give you. On Monday, Mr. Strahan, who had
been insulted, spoke to Lord Mansfield (who had,

I I think, been insulted too) of the licentiousness of
the populace ; and his lordship treated it as a very
slight irregularity. On Tuesday night they pulled
down Fielding's house, and burnt his goods in the
street. They had gutted, on Monday, Sir George
Savile's house, but the building was saved. On
Tuesday evening, leaving Fielding's ruins, they
went to Newgate to demand their companions
who had been seized demolishing the chapel.
The keeper could not release them but by the
Mayor's permission, which he went to ask ; at his
return he found all the prisoners released and
Newgate in a blaze. They then went to Blooms-
bury, and fastened upon Lord Mansfield's house,
which they pulled down, and as for his goods they
totally burnt them. They have since gone to Caen
Wood, but a guard was there before them. They
plundered some Papists, and burnt a mass-house in
Moorfields the same night." Boswell speaks of

, these riots as "a miserable sedition, from which
London was delivered by the magnanimity of the
sovereign himself"

Miss Priscilla Wakefield, in her " Perambulations

j in London," writes as follows concerning these
riotous proceedings : — " The metropolis was thrown
into a dreadful consternation, in 1780, by a lawless
mob, which caused the most alarming scenes of
riot and confusion. On the 2nd of June an
immense multitude assembled in St. George's
Fields, in consequence of an advertisement from
the Protestant Association, in order to proceed to
the House of Commons with a petition for the
repeal of the law passed the last session in favour
of the Roman Catholics. Lord George Gordon
condescended to be their leader. They preserved
tolerable order till they approached the Houses of
Parliament, when they showed tlieir hostile dis-
position by ill-treating many of the members as
they passed along. Lord George encouraged these
proceedings by liaranguing tliis tumultuous assembly
from the gallery-stairs of the House of Commons,
and telling them that they were not likely to
succeed in their request, to which he added the
imprudence of naming the members who opposed
it. Some of them, ripe for active mischief, filed

St. George's Fields.)

LORD GEORGE GORDON.

347

off, and demolished the chapels belonging to the
Sardinian and Bavarian ambassadors. The guards
being called out, thirteen of the rioters were taken
into clistody. All remained quiet till Sunday, the
4th, when riotous parties collected in the neighbour-
hood of Moorfields, and satiated their vengeance
on the chapels and dwelling-houses of the Catholics.
The next day different parts of the town presented
a repetition of the same disgraceful scenes ; and
in the evening an attempt was made to rescue
the rioters confined in Newgate, which from the
firmness of Mr. Akerman, the keeper, they were
unable to execute, till, by breaking the windows,
battering the entrances of the cells with pick-axes
and sledge-hammers, and climbing the walls with
ladders, they found means to fire Mr. Akerman's
house, which communicated to the prison, and
liberated three hundred prisoners. This success
increased their fury. They divided into different
quarters, with the most mischievous designs.
Many were great sufferers from their attacks ; but
none in whose loss the public was so much
interested as Lord Mansfield, in whose house they
not only destroyed a great deal of property, and
a valuable collection of pictures, but likewise
some very scarce manuscripts, besides his lord-
ship's notes on the constitution of England and on
important law cases, which, from his advanced age,
could never be replaced. The occurrences of
Wednesday were still more dreadful. The city
was in a state of anarchy ; and the evening
presented a most awful scene. Flames issued on
all sides. The insurgents had set fire to the King's
Bench and Fleet prisons. New Bridewell, the toil-
gates on Blackfriars Bridge, and private houses in
all directions. The civil magistrate had no longer
any power. The military were obliged to act to
preserve the metropolis from destruction. All
parts of the town, particularly those near the Bank
and the Court, were guarded by soldiery. Mul-
titudes perished by intoxication, &c." It might be
added that the Marshalsea was broken open by
the mob on this occasion.

Mr. H. Angelo, in his " Reminiscences," thus
WTites : — " I soon hurried away, and arrived near
the obelisk in St. George's Fields, the space before
the King's Bench being then quite open, with no
houses. On seeing the flames and smoke from
the Avindows along the high wall, it appeared to me
like the huge hulk of a man-of-war, dismasted, on
fire. Here, with amazement, I stood for some
time, gazing on the spot, when, looking behind me,
I beheld a number of horse and foot soldiers ap-
proach, with a quick step. Off I went, in an instant,
in a contrary direction; nor did I look back till

I was on Blackfriars Bridge. That night, if my
recollection be correct, must have been the time
when the dreadful conflagrations in different parts
of the metropolis took place. I recollect it was said
that six-and-thirty fires might be seen blazing from
London Bridge. When the bridge was assailed by
the mob, the latter were repulsed by Alderman
Wilkes and his party, and many were thrown clean
into the Thames."

Horace Walpole sarcastically calls these riotous
proceedings " the second conflagration of London,
by Lord George Gordon." The number of persons
who perished in these riots could not be accu-
rately gathered. According to the military returns,
210 persons died by shot or sword in the streets,
and 75 in the hospitals; and 173 were wounded
and captured. How many died of injuries, un-
known and unseen, cannot be computed. Many
more perished in the flames, or died from excesses
of one kind or other. Justice came in at the close,
to demand her due. At the Old Bailey, eighty-
five persons were tried for taking part in the riots,
and finally out of these eighteen were executed,
one woman, a negress, being of the number. By
a Special Commission for the County of Surrey
forty-five prisoners were tried, and twenty-six of
them capitally convicted, though two or three were
reprieved.

But what, it has been asked, did Lord George
Gordon all this while ? " Filled with consterna-
tion at the riots," as his counsel on trial said, " he,
on the 7th of June, the terrible Wednesday, sought
an audience of the king, professing that it would be
of service in checking the riots. No doubt the
poor young nobleman would have asked the king
to proclaim the intention of repealing the Relief
Bill, as if such a step would have had the slightest
effect. But the king told him first to go and
prove his loyalty by checking the riots, if he could.
Lord George did really go into the City ; but the
' President of the Protestant Association ' was now
powerless, and does not seem even to have spoken
to the mobs." Every reader of " Barnaby Rudge ''
knows the fearful state of London during the con-
tinuance of these riots ; and one act of Lord
George, in his presumed attempt to quell the
tumult, is particularly referred to by the author of
that work. A young man came to the door of his
coach, and besought his lordship to sign a paper
drawn up for the purpose, which ran thus : — " All
true friends to the Protestants, I hope, will be
particular, and do no injury to the property of
any true Protestant, as I am well assured the pro-
prietor of this house is a staunch and worthy friend
to the cause." It has been insinuated that Lord

34«

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[St. George's Fields.

George Gordon wrote for friends many protection-
papers like this, the language of which certainly
implies a knowledge and approval of the intent to
attack those who were considered enemies. But
the young man proved that it was written by him-
self, and that Lord George signed it hurriedly in
compassion. When shown to the mob, it saved
the man's house.

Lord George was arrested on the gth of June,
and conve)'ed to the Tower under a strong guard.
The Government thought it prudent to allow eight
months to elapse before trying him, and he was
then acquitted ; though it seems strange that the
ringleader should have been absolved from blame,
when a score of his poor dupes were executed for
their subordinate share in this bloody work.

Some time after this event a person begging
alms from him in the street remarked, " God bless
you, my lord ! you and I have been in all the
prisons in London." " What do you mean,
fellow?" cried Lord George ; "I never was in any
prison but the Tower." " That's true, my lord,"
replied the sturdy beggar ; " and I've been in all
the rest."

In 1781 Lord George Gordon coolly wished to
offer himself as a candidate for the representation
of London, but he withdrew, on finding that the
City did not choose to be burnt down once a year
for his amusement.

The after-life of this nobleman was marked by
vagaries which confirmed the probability of his
being really afflicted with insanity. In 1786 he
openly embraced the Jewish faith, and soon after
was convicted of a libel on the Queen of France.
He fled to escape the sentence, but was re-taken
in a few months and confined in Newgate, where
he lived until fever cut short his career on the ist
of November, 1793, at the age of forty-two. He
was much beloved by the prisoners, and with good
reason, being generous and humane. Two Jewish
maid-servants, partly through enthusiasm, waited
on him daily up to his death. The last words of
Lord George (iordon were characteristic. The
French Revolution had attracted him as a glorious
event, and he died crazily chanting its watchword,
" Qiiraf"

Northouck, writing in 1773, anticipates the early
arrival of a day when St. George's Fields will no
more resemble fields, but be covered with buildings,
as an ultimate consequence of the erection of West-
minster and Blackfriars Bridges. He was right.
In the course of the next two decades of years, the
hand of the builder had been at work, and streets
and terraces were fast rendering the name of St.
George's Fields but a meaningless title

The pleasant and open aspect of St. George's
Fields, and indeed the whole neighbourhood of
the Kent Road, at the above-mentioned date, and
it may, perhaps, be added the moderate price of
the land, induced the locality to be selected as the
site of several charitable institutions. Foremost
among them was the Magdalen Hospital, which for
just a century stood near the southern end of Black-
friars Road. It was originally opened, under the
name of Magdalen House, by the founders, Robert
Dingley and Jonas Hanway, in a large building,
formerly the London Infirmary, in Prescott Street,
Goodman's Fields, in 1758. The good founders
were readily assisted by others, and the fame of
the institution even reached to Calcutta ; and
Omichund, the rich native merchant who figures
conspicuously in the history of Warren Hastings,
left more than 18,000 rupees to the funds of the
hospital, though, we are sorry to add, his executors
contrived to seize and appropriate to themselves
the greater portion of the sum.

Jonas Han way's larger schemes of benevolence
have connected his name not only with the Marine
Society and the Foundling, but also with the Mag-
dalen ; and to his courage and perseverance in
smaller fields of usefulness (his determined con-
tention with extravagant fees to servants not the
least), the men of Goldsmith's day, as we have
seen in our account of Hanway Street,* were
indebted for liberty to use an umbrella.

At home no one was more zealous in support
of the Magdalen than Dr. Dodd, the fashionable
preacher, who was its chaplain, and whose unlucky
exit from this world of trouble at Tyburn we have
already mentioned. f The doctor, we are informed,
was unrivalled in his power of extracting tears and
loose cash from his fair hearers, and appealed so
effectually in two sermons, that the fashionable
ladies, sympathising, perhaps, with female frailty,
contributed liberally. The charity was incorporated
in 1 769, and six and a half acres in St. George's
Fields purchased, on which a new hospital was
erected. Accordingly, the hospital is called " The
New Magdalen " in the " Ambulator," in 1774.

The character of this excellent institution is well
described in the will of Mr. Charles Wray, who
was for many years a governor of the hospital. " I
bequeath to the Magdalen Hospital ;^5oo as a
farewell token of my aflTection, and of my sincere
good wishes for the everlasting success and pros-
perity of that inimane and truly Christian institu-
tion, which, from my own knowledge, founded
on many years' experience, and beyond my mast

• See Vol. IV., p. 471.

t Sm Vol. V„ p. 193-

St. George's Fields.]

THE MAGDALEN HOSPITAL.

349

sanguine expectations, hath restored a great number
of unfortunate young women to their afflicted
parents and friends, to honest industry, to virtue,
and to happiness."

Thousands of young women who have strayed
from the paths of virtue have been admitted,
restored to their friends, or placed in service ; and
it is an invariable rule that no female shall be
discharged, unless at her own desire or for mis-

persons admitted, the inferior wards consisting of
meaner persons and of those degraded for their
behaviour. Each person is employed in such kind
of work as is suitable to her abilities, and has such
part of the benefits arising from her industry as the
committee think proper. Allen, in his " History
of Surrey," in dealing with the Magdalen Hospital
(and the description so far is applicable to it in
its new situation, as well as when it stood in St.

THE OBELISK IN ST. GEORGE's CIRCUS, 1874.

conduct, until means have been provided by which
she may obtain an honest livelihood. No recom-
mendation is necessary to entitle the unfortunate
to the benefits of this hospital more than that of
repentant guilt.

The hospital consisted of four brick buildings,
forming a quadrangle. The chapel belonging to
the institution was an octangular building, erected
at one of the back corners. In the year 1869 the
institution was removed to Streatham, as we have
already seen.* The unhappy women, for whose
benefit this hospital was erected, are received by
petition ; and there is a distinction in the wards,
according to the education or the behaviour of the

270

* See ante, p. 318.

George's Fields), writes : — " A probationary ward
is instituted for the young women on their ad-
mission, and a separation of those of different
descriptions and qualifications is estabhshed. Each
class is entrusted to its particular assistant, and the
whole is under the inspection of a matron. This
separation, useful on many accounts, is particularly
so to a numerous class of women, who are much
to be pitied, and to whom this charity has been
very beneficial, namely, ' young women who have
been seduced from their friends under promise of
marriage, and have been deserted by their seducers.'
Their relations, in the first moments of resentment,
refuse to receive, protect, or acknowledge them ;
they are abandoned by the world, without character,
without friends, without money, without resource;

35°

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[St George's Fields

and -ivretched indeed is their situation ! To such
especially this house of refuge opens wide its doors;
and instead of being driven by despair to lay
violent hands on themselves, and to superadd the
crime of self-murder to that guilt which is the
cause of their distress, they find a safe and quiet
retreat in this abode of peace and reflection."

A large block of Peabody Buildings now covers
the site of the old Magdalen. The trees which
stood in front of the latter are still made to do
duty by "screening the windows which front the
street.

Shortly after the foundation of the Magdalen,
another valuable institution, the Asylum for Female
Orphans, was established, principally through the
exertions of Sir John Fielding, the active magis-
trate, and St. George's Fields was chosen for its
site. Like the Magdalen, this institution has
migrated farther into the country, having within the
last few years taken up its quarters at Beddington
— the fine old Elizabethan dwelling-house of the
Carews — near Croydon. While the Foundling
Hospital is limited to the reception of infants, the
Asylum for Female Orphans has been founded for
the reception of destitute children, who are ad-
mitted at a more advanced age. The children are
educated and industriously employed until suffi-
ciently old to be apprenticed out, when the utmost
care is taken that they are provided with suitable
situations. The Asylum stood originally at the
junction of Kennington Road and Westminster
Bridge Road, on the spot now covered by Christ
Churcli. The old building formed three sides of
a square, but its dimensions appeared contracted,
and not of that commanding character expected
from the celebrity of this charity.

The Royal Freemasons' Charity School for Girls,
in Elizabeth Place, Westminster Bridge Road, of
which we give an illustration on page 343, was
founded about the commencement of the present
century, for the maintenance and education of the
daughters and orj)hans of decayed members of the
Masonic body. The schools were removed a few
years ago, to make room for improvements in the
neighbourhood.

In 1788 the Philantiiropic Society established
an industrial school in St. George's Fields, for the
rescue of young children from a career of crime.
The first place of reception of the Philanthropic
Society was at a small house on Cambridge Ilcath,
but the prosperous encouragement it received in-
duced tlie directors to contract with the Corporation
of London for a piece of ground in the London
Road, at the corner of Garden Row, not far from
the Obelisk ; and on this site it r;inaiucd till about

the year 1850, when the operations of the society
were transferred to a more convenient building
near the Red Hill station of the Brighton Railway.
St. Jude's Cluirch, in St. George's Road, was till
1S50 the Philanthropic Society's chapel.

The School for the Indigent Blind, occupying
considerable space on the southern side of the
Lambeth Road, and shown in our illustration of
the Obelisk on page 349, was originated at the
premises of the old " Dog and Duck." When new
Bethlehem Hospital was erected, in 181 2, the site
was required, and the Blind School was removed
to its present site. Of institutions like this. Dr.
Lettsom observed that " he who enables a blind
person, without excess of labour, to earn his own
livelihood, does him more real service than if he
had pensioned him to a greater amount." While
the poor blind were thus cared for in St. George's
Fields, those deprived of speech and hearing found
a home in the Old Kent Road, where we have
already paid them a visit.*

The London Road, which forms a continuation
of the Blackfriars Road to the " Elephant and
Castle " tavern, may be dismissed with one remark.
The building now known as the South London
Palace of Amusement was, from 1793 to 1848, in
which last-named year St. George's Cathedral was
completed, the principal chapel for the Roman
Catholics of this part of the metropolis.

Besides witnessing the events mentioned above
as having occurred here, St. George's Fields have
borne their share of celebrity in the annals of
England. They were very often the scenes of
royal pomp and knightly cavalcades, as well as the
rendezvous of rebellion and discord. It was to
this place that Wat Tyler's and Jack Cade's rebels
resorted, in order to raise the standard of oppo-
sition to the royal authority ; and it was hither
that the former retired, after the arrest of their
leader in Smithfield, and were compelled to yield
to the allegiance which they had violated.

From Westminster, Waterloo, and Blackfriars
Bridges, broad thoroughfares converge to a
point, called St. George's Circus, whence si.x
roads diverge in various directions. It was pro-
posed at one time to erect a large crescent at this
spott in lionour of John Howard, the great phil-
anthrojjist.

In the centre of the circus is the obelisk, erected
in 1 77 1, during the mayoralty and in honour of
Brass Crosby, Esq., who is stated by Allen, in his
" History of Surrey," to have been imprisoned in
the Tower "for the conscientious discharge of his

* Sec antf, p. 353. t Soc GtnfUman'i Magaz'nti Sept , 1716. I

Bethlehem Hospital.]

THE OBELISK.

351

magisterial duty," and to commemorate the inde-
pendent and patriotic spirit with which he released
a printer who had been seized, contrary to law, by
the House of Commons. Full particulars of the
proceedings which led to the committal of Brass
Crosby to the Tower will be found in the pages of
the Gentleman's Magazine for March, 1771, from
which it appears that the printers of several London
newspapers had been apprehended on warrants
issued against them by order of the House of
Commons. On being taken before the Lord Mayor
and Alderman Wilkes, the printers were at once
discharged, his lordship saying that " so long as he
was in that high office he looked upon himself as a
guardian of the liberties of his fellow-citizens, and
that no power had a right to seize a citizen of
London without an authority from him or some
other magistrate." In consequence of this, Wilkes
and Crosby became martyrs ; but while the name
of the former has been handed down to pos-

terity from his connection with the North Briton,
that of the latter is now almost forgotten. On the
north side of the obelisk is inscribed, " One mile
350 feet from Fleet Street ;" on the south side,
" Erected in Xlth year of the reign of King George
the Third, MDCCLXXI., the Right Hon. Brass
Crosby, Lord Mayor;" on the east side, "One
mile 40 feet from London Bridge ;" and on the
west side, " One mile from Palace Yard, West-
minster Hall."

Several Acts of Parliament were passed, at the
close of the last and beginning of the present
centuries, for the improvement of this part of the
metropolis. In 1812 an Act was passed which
enabled the City to sell some detached pieces of
land, mentioned in a schedule annexed to the Act,
and to invest the purchase-money, and a further
sum of ;^2o,ooo, in the purchase of other land
there, so as to make their estate in St. George's
Fields more compact.

CHAPTER XXVII.

ST. GEORGE'S FIELDS (<-(i«^/««.',/).— BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL, ETC.

*' Insanire yx'j^K."— Horace, *' Odes," Til. xix. i8.

The Priory of the Star of Bethlehem— Its Conversion into a Hospital for Lunatics—" Tom o' Bedlams "-Purchase of the Site for a New Hospital
in St. George's Fields— Public Subscription to raise Funds for its Erection— Sign of the Old "Dog and Duck "—The New Hospital
described— Gibber's Statues of " Melancholy and Raving Madness "—The Air of Refinement and Taste in the Appearance of the Female Wards
— Viscomte d'Arlingcourt's Visit to Bedlam— Gray's Lines on Madness— The Ball-room— The Billiard-room- The Dining-room— The
Chapel — The Infirmary Ward— .4 Picture of the "Good Samaritan," painted by one of the Inmates— The Council Chamber — The Men's
Wards— A Sad Love Story— General Particulars of the Hospital, and Mode of Admission of Patients— King Edward's School— Christ
Church, Westminster Bridge Road— St. George's Roman Catholic Cathedral— The School for the Indigent Blind— The British and Foreign
School Society, Borough Road.

lands, and tenements belonging to the establish-
ment; upon which Henry VIII., who perhaps hap-
pened to be short of money at the time, wished to
make them pay for the house itself; but finding
that they would not become purchasers of what
really belonged to themselves, if to anybody at all,
the magnanimous monarch took a liberal alterna-
tive, and made them a present of the house. The
common story is that the king generously gave it
to the " citizens of London," as a hospital for
lunatics, whom he did not like to have so near to
him as Charing Cross ; just as the conscience of
the king led him to build the church of St. Martin's
in the Fields, because he did not like to see so
many funerals pass on the way to Westminster.

The old priory had already been a hospital for
lunatics, amongst whom there were certain out-
pensioners known as " Tom o' Bedlams," who were
relieved and then sent away to beg, being known by
a metal badge fastened on the arm : a distinction,
of course, often simulated by other mendicants.
In 1675 the building had become so dilapidated

Modern " Bedlam", to which we now come in our
progress over St. George's Fields, is a very different
place from the " Hospital of the Star of Bethlehem "
to which it claims to have succeeded, and of which
we will proceed to give a history. It is vulgarly
styled " Bedlam," by a corruption of " Bethlem,"
which again is an abbreviation of " Bethlehem."

It was in the year 1246, and therefore in the reign
of Henry III., that Simon Fitz-Mary, then Sheriff of
London, made a pious determination to establish
the " Priory of the Star of Bethlehem ;" and in
order to endow it with sufficient maintenance, gave
up those lands of his which were in the parish of
St. Botolph Without, Bishopsgate, in the spot now
known as Liverpool Street ; the priory itself standing
on the east side of " Morefield," afterwards called
"Old Bethlem." In the year 1330 the religious
house became known as a public hospital ; the City
of London took it under their protection (an ad-
vantage to the establishment which, in those days
of disorder, was not the least desirable object to
attain), and in 1 546 they purchased all the patronage,

552

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Bethleliem Hospital.

that it became necessary to erect a new one, and
this was done upon a new site on the south side
of Moorfields, at a cost of ;^i,7oo, raised by sub-
scription. Of the appearance of this building at
the commencement of the present century, or down
to the time of the removal of this institution to
St. George's Fields about the year 1S15, we have
spoken in a previous part of this work;* it only
remains, therefore, to state that the edifice which
was erected in Moorfields in 1675 having in its turn
fallen into a bad condition, and becoming gradually
surrounded by narrow streets, and crowded houses,
its site was exchanged for a much larger piece
of open ground in St. George's Fields. In the
Monthly Register for 1802 we read that, "according
to a new City plan for building on Moorfields,
Bethlehem Hospital is to be pulled down, and re-
erected on a more convenient site near Islington."
This plan, however, was not carried out.

The present edifice was erected in 181 2-15,
but various additions have since been made. The
building is three storeys high, and has a frontage of
about 900 feet in length. It covers, with the offices
and gardens, about fifteen acres of ground.

The " first stone " of the new building was laid
by the Lord Mayor in April, 18 12, and it was
erected from the designs and under the direction
of James Lewis, architect. The hospital was in
18 1 5 sufficiently advanced for the reception of
patients. The cupola, or dome, a comparatively
recent addition, which crowns the centre of the
roof, and serves as the chapel, was designed by the
late Mr. Sydney Smirke.

The cost of the erection was about ^122,500,
of which ^72,819 was granted by Parliament at
different times, and ;^io,229 subscribed by public
bodies and private individuals. The Corporation
of the City gave ^3,000, and the Bank of England
;^Soo towards this sum. The following anecdote,
with reference to the above-mentioned subscription,
is told in the Youth's Magazine for 181 2 : — " When
the collection was making to build Bethlehem
Hosjiital, those who were employed to gather dona-
tions for that purpose went to a small house, the
door of which being half open, they overheard an j
old man, the master, scolding his servant-maid for
having thrown away a brimstone-match without
using both ends. After diverting themselves some
time with the dispute, they presented themselves
before the old man, and explained the cause of
their coming, though, from what had just passed,
they entertained very little, if any, hopes of success.
The supposed miser, however, no sooner under-

• Sec Vol. II., p. aoo.

Stood the business, than he stepped into a closet,
whence he brought a bag, and counted out four
hundred guineas, which he gave to them. No
astonishment could exceed that of the collectors
at this unexpected reverse of their expectations ;
they loudly testified their surprise, and scrupled not
to inform their benefactor that they had overheard
his quarrel with the servant-girl. 'Gentlemen,'
said he, ' your surprise is occasioned by a thing of
very little consequence. I keep house, and save
and spend money my own way ; the first furnishes
me with the means of doing the other. With regard
to benefactions and donations, you may always
expect most from prudent people who keep their
own accounts.' When he had thus spoken he
requested them to withdraw without the smallest
ceremony, to prevent which he shut the door, not
thinking half so much of the four hundred guineas
which he had just given away as of the match which
had been carelessly thrown in the fire."

The first hospital in Moorfields could accommo-
date only fifty or sixty patients ; and the second
only 150, the number immured there in Strype's
time. The present building was originally con-
structed for 198 patients ; but this being found too
limited for the purposes and resources of the hos-
pital, a new wing was commenced for 1 66 additional
patients, of which the first stone was laid in July,
1838. Since then other portions of the premises
have been considerably enlarged.

Light iron railings, together with an entrance-
gateway and lodge-house, separate the grounds
from the main road. Let into a brick wall, which
cuts oft" from observation the private grounds in
front of the hospital, is the old sign-stone of the
"Dog and Duck" tavern (shown in page 344),
which, as we have stated in the preceding chapter,
formerly occupied this site. The sign, which is
about a yard square, is cut in high relief, and
represents a dog with a duck in its mouth.

It must be owned that the long line of brick
frontage of the hospital is somewhat sombre and
gloomy in appearance. It consists of a centre and
two wings. The former has a handsome and lofty
portico, raised on a flight of steps, and composed
of six columns of the Ionic order, surmounted by
their entablature and a pediment, in the tympanum
of wliich is a relief of the royal arms, and under-
neath the motto:— HENRICO VIIL REGE
FVND.\TVM CIVIUM LARGITAS PER-
FI'XIIT. (Founded by King Henry VIIL; com-
pleted by the bounty of the people.) The re-
mainder of the central portion of the building is
occupied by the apartments of tiie officers of the
cstablishuKMit, the council chamber, &c. On either

Bethlehem Ilcsplta!.]

THE "BRAINLESS BROTHERS."

353

side of the entrance-hall are the houses assigned to
the two resident physicians, who, of course, are
men who have studied lunacy in all its bearings,
both in theory and in practice. If surgical aid of
a special nature is required, a surgeon is summoned
from St. Thomas's Hospital or Guy's. The hospital
has also accommodation for two medical students
who wish to qualify themselves for practice in
lunacy ; and these two studentships, which give
each of their holders free maintenance and instruc-
tion for six months, are eagerly sought after.

The wings are in three storeys, in addition to a
rusticated basement, which show uniformly grated
windows. Behind the principal front are two other
wings, with the culinary departments between them.
In the vestibule were for years preserved the two
statues of " Melancholy and Raving Madness,"
which were sculptured by the elder Gibber, and
formerly surmounted the gates of the old hospital
in Moorfields. They are of Portland stone, and
have been long since removed to the Museum at
South Kensington. These statues were repaired
by Bacon in 1820. In Lambert's "History of
London " there is an engraving of Gibber's " Brain-
less Brothers," as these statues have been called :
a fine piece of design, though the idea is borrowed
from Michael Angelo. Virtue has preserved an
anecdote that one of them was copied from Oliver
Gromwell's gigantic porter, who became insane.

On entering the grand hall, the eye of the visitor
is immediately attracted by the spacious staircase,
which ascends from the ground-floor to the council-
chamber above. On either side passages run
laterally through the building, the one to the right
leading to the male, the other to the female wards.
The basement and three floors are each divided
into galleries. The basement gallery is paved with
stone, and its ceiling arched with brickwork ; the
upper galleries are floored with wood, and the
ceiling plated with iron. One is struck on entering
the female wards, not so much with the exquisite
cleanliness of everything as with the air of taste
and refinement which may be met with on either
hand. The wards are long galleries, lighted on
one side by large windows, in each of which stand
globes of fish, fern-cases, or green-house plants ;
while the spaces between are occupied by pictures,
busts, or cages containing birds. The whole air
of the place is light and cheerful ; and although
there is, of course, sad evidence of the purposes of
the institution in some of the faces, as they sit
brooding over the guarded fires which warm the
corridors at intervals of about fifty yards, there
is a large per-centage of inmates who look for the
most part cheerful, and are either working at some

business, reading, writing, or playing with the cats
or parrots, which seem wisely to be allowed to
them as pets.

" I visited Bethlehem Hospital, or, as it is
called, 'Bedlam,' which inspired me," writes the
Viscomte D'Arlingcourt, in 1844, "with melan-
choly thoughts. I beheld this noble establishment
with mingled admiration and grief Its galleries,
seemingly of interminable extent, are magnificent,
but peopled with lunatics, whose sadness or gaiety
appear equally fearful. Gonfined in a double prison,
mentally as well as bodily, without light, without
hope, and without end, the unfortunate inmates
struggle at the same time under a twofold condem-
nation. It is true that the prisoners in Bedlam
have not, like those in Newgate, to endure the
tortures of memory and remorse ; but even those
in Newgate might have, if they would, an advantage
over those in Bedlam — namely, the power of fixing
their thoughts on heaven. These last would thus
have still a hope left ; the captive lunatic has none ;
he is not even on a level with dumb animals, for
instinct likewise has forsaken him. He no longer
ranks among men, and he is separated by nature
from the brute creation. In one of the apartments
in Bedlam is a portrait of Henry VIII., painted
by Holbein ; his disagreeable countenance con-
sists of a screwed-up mouth, a bushy beard, a short
nose, small eyes, and a puffy face. This Blue-
beard of the English throne, this royal slayer of
women, appeared to me in his proper place at
Bedlam. But, alas ! he himself was not confined
there."

Turning again to the unfortunate objects of this
institution, their case is thus powerfully depicted,
or rather prophesied, by Gray, in his " Ode to
Eton Gollege : "—

" These shall the fury passions tear,

The vultures of the mind,
Disdainful anger, pallid fear,

And shame that skulks behind ;
Or pining love shall waste their youth.
Or jealousy, with rankling tooth,

That only gnaws the secret heart ;
And envy wan, and faded care,
Grim-visaged, comfortless despair,

And sorrow's piercing dart.

"Ambition this shall tempt to rise.

Then whirl the wretch from high.
To bitter scorn a sacrifice.

And grinning infamy.
The stings of falsehood those shall try,
And hard unkindness* alter'd eye,

That mocks the tear it forced to flow ;
And keen remorse, with blood defiled,
And moody madness laughing wild

Amid severest woe."

354

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Bethlehem Hospital.

Threading our way along the corridor which
leads to the female wards, and descending a stone
staircase, we were led by our guide to the kitchen
and culinary offices in the basement, and in the
rear of the central portion of the building. The
kitchen is a large octagonal building, admirably
furnished, and fitted up with huge boilers, a large
steam apparatus, and all the requisite appliances for
cooking. The water used by the establishment is

enough to require more rigid measures. Thanks
to Dr. Elliotson,* the great modern reformer of
the system on which lunatics are treated in this
country, all severity — such as the use of chains,
manacles, and strait-waistcoats — has now entirely
disappeared here ; indeed, if a patient on being
brought to the hospital should happen to be wearing
one, it is stripped off in the hall, and handed back
to the patient's friends, often much to their surprise

BETHLEHEM MOSFITAL.

drawn from an Artesian well, which is bored down
into the chalk underlying the clay soil. Hence
probably arises the well-known freedom from
diarrhcea and cholera among the inmates of Beth-
lehem when tiiose diseases have raged all around
the walls of the institution.

Near at hand, and in other parts of the grounds,
are the workshops, where those patients who, from
their previous employment, are qualified for the
task, may be seen labouring, with more or less
industry, at their respective trades. Those who
can work at any sedentary employment are en-
couraged to do so : not the slightest restriction,
however, is placed upon the inmates on this score ;
and ►here are but few whose demeanour is violent

Kindness is the only charm by which the attendants
exert a mastei-y over the patients, and the influence
thus possessed is most remarkable.

The ground-fioor of the main building receives
the patients on their admission, and this and the
"iucceeding storey are appropriated for dangerous
cases. Here, too, are the bath-rooms, lavatories,
and sundry rooms, padded with cork and india-
rubber, for the reception of refractory and violent
patients.

One of the inmates of the first ward which wc
visited talked as rationally and sensibly as possible
on the subject of her former pupils when she kept

• See Vol. IV., p. 3a6.

Bethleham Hospital.]

A BALL-ROOM FOR LUNATICS.

355

a ladies' school ; and nobody could have suspected
her of being a " patient " here, had we not known
that there was one subject on which it was for-
bidden to speak. Another poor woman, though
cheerful and even smiling, lived — we were told —
under the constant delusion that she hears the
workmen erecting the scaffold for her execution
on the morrow. A third, a handsome woman of
about fifty, on seeing us enter, came forward to see
if we were part of the nuptial party whom she was
daily expecting in attendance on her heavenly

Passing up the stone staircases, we made our
way through the various rooms on each floor of the
southern wing. Each we found to be furnished
with plain couches and lounges, and almost every
other comfort which could in any way conduce to
the comfort of the wretched inmates. In several
of the wards were pianos. At the end of the
uppermost floor, in this part of the building, is a
ball room, the sight of which would have gratified
Lord Lanesborough ; * in it a ball is given every
month, and a practice-night also is held fortnightly.

'MELANCHOLY AND RAVING MADNESS." [.Sculptured by Cibbtr,)
{Formerly aver tlte gateway of BethUfum Hospital^ Moorjields.)

spouse, the Lord himself, and his companion, the
prophet Isaiah ! Her disappointment on perceiv-
ing her mistake we cannot pretend to describe.
" Well, I know he will come before the end of the
year. He is very kind and good to me ; and I am
not worthy of him." Such were her musings.
Poor, good, simple soul ! how we felt for the pain
which we had unintentionally caused her, as she
retired into a corner to sit down and weep ; while
an aged crone near her gave vent to a torrent of
abuse of the institution ! Another girl was pointed
out to us, who sat, and sits day by day, in a dark
corner, watching a favourite plant, which she is
persuaded will bring her a blessing as soon as it
comes into flower. Poor girl ! how true, again,
are the words of Gray —

" Where ignorance is bliss

'Tis folly to be wise."

The dancers are those of the patients who are fit to
be trusted.

A writer in the Illustrated Times most appo-
sitely remarks : — " An empty ball-room, whether at
Bethlehem or elsewhere, can be but a spacious,
well-ventilated, well-boarded, and handsome saloon.
But the ball I Ah, those periodical balls at Beth-
lehem Hospital ! — who can describe, who imagine
them — their strange, pervading characteristics;
their underlying peculiarities ; their effects ; the
longing anticipations of the relief they must afford
by recalling old memories half-submerged in the
darker broodings which sometimes flood the recol-
lections of a brighter life ? Oh ! may they help
those poor souls to grope their way back to life
and light."

• See Vol. v., p. 4.

35°

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Bethlehem Hospital.

In the corresponding wing on the men's side is
a billiard-room, to which the most hopeful cases
among the male patients have access under certain
restrictions. This is a large apartment, wliich, but
for its furniture, would look like an immense and
lofty green-house, since it is almost entirely glazed
above the height of about six feet — a plan which
ensures a capital light upon the table. Around the
room are raised cushioned seats for those who
desire to watch the play ; while nearer the fire a
large study-table is filled with magazines, journals,
and general literature, in neat, lettered covers, and
all uninjured by the stains which ordinarily mark
these adjuncts to a public room.

Each of the sleeping-rooms contains a low truckle
bedstead, w-ith chair and table, light and air being
admitted through a small barred window at the
top. Some of them, particularly on the women's
side of the hospital, are profusely adorned with
pictures and other objects of interest, which may
have been left by friends visiting the patient.
Each door opens to the gallery, affording a pro-
menade 250 feet in length, where the patients can
walk about when the weather proves unfavourable
for out door e.xercise. To the left of the gallery is
the dining-room, capable of accommodating about
100 persons. The diet, which is plain, but of the
best kind, is served on wooden bowls and platters,
and is seldom unaccompanied by a good appetite.
The patients are allowed the use of knives, but
these, we remarked, were very blunt.

These long corridors or wards are preserved to
an equable temperature through every change of
season by stoves and the introduction of warm-air
pipes beneath the flooring, so constructed that the
warmth of every patient's room can be regulated.

The wards of the women, as already stated, are
much more gay and cheerful than those in the
men's wing. Their windows are nearly all decked
out with evergreens or other plants and flowers,
and the prints on the walls have flowers or needle-
work hung upon them— the latter the work of the
patients. Some of these ply the needle as deftly
as their saner sisters. One in particular, a girl of
about seventeen, who has the reputation of being
an excellent darner, showed us her handy-work
with great pride, and was evidently delighted by
cur praise.

Each storey has connected with it one ot the
galleries, from the last of which a stone staircase
conducts to the chapel, a large octagonal apart-
ment covered with a cupola, but of no archi-
tectural pretensions, which stands over the central
hall. Sucli of the patients as can be trusted to
behave themselves attend service in it twice on a

Sunday, the men sitting on one side and the women
on the other, each attended by their keepers and
attendants. The chaplain generally addresses them
in a conversational and homely manner, instead of .
inflicting on them a \vritten sermon ; and the
patients themselves form a very fair choir. They
have a good organ to aid them in their psalmody.

Beyond the gallery a door opens into a light,
airy, and cheerful room, the beds in which, and
the air of calm quiet pervading it, prepare you to
hear that it is the infirmary ward. Here, once
more, we meet with exquisite cleanliness, but still
something beyond cleanliness — comfort, elegance,
even luxury. The high and neatly-curtained win-
dows admit the light in one pleasant tone, without
either glare or shadow, and show flowers, plants,
busts, and even the neat white-draped beds, all as
pleasant objects. Seated here and there are the
partially convalescent, accommodated with easy
seats, leg-rests, or pillows, by the aid of which
they can lounge over the new number of some
favourite periodical, with which a large table is
liberally supplied, or plunge more deeply into some
book selected from the librar)'.

Descending the staircase to the first floor, we
reach the corridor which passes over the central
hall, by the head of the grand staircase. Here
our attention was drawn to a large painting of the
parable of the "Good Samaritan," wOiich was
painted some years ago by one of the unfortunate
inmates of the hospital — Dadd, a student of the
Royal Academy. The wall at the head of the
staircase is covered with the names of benefactors
to the institution inscribed in letters of gold ; and
close by is the board-room. This is a fine apart-
ment, adorned with the arms and bequests of every
donor to the hospital, together with the excellent
portrait of its founder, King Henry VIH., by Hol-
bein, said to be an original. In the " visitors'
book," which lies upon one of the tables in the
room, are inscribed the signatures of many royal
and noble personages, such as the Emperor of
Brazil, the Empress of Austria, the King of Spain,
&c. ; but apparently more valued than all these
put together is an autograph signature of Queen
Victoria, written when she visited the hospital in
i860 : this is preserved under a glass, upon a table
by itself in one of the recesses between the
windows.

Turning to the right after leaving the board-
room, we pass at once to the men's wards. In
plan and general arrangement these rooms are the
same as on the women's side of the hospital ;
but, although the male patients are provided with
musical instruments, books, and writing materials,

Bethlehem Hospital.]

TREATMENT OF THE PATIENTS.

357

there is an absence of that neatness and taste in
the decoration of the wards and galleries which is
such a striking feature in that portion of the hospital
set apart for females.

A ward on the ground floor, on the men's side,
contains a small plunging bath, which is constantly
in use in the summer months. It was formerly
the custom to plunge patients unawares into this
bath, by letting them fall into it suddenly through
a trap-door, in the hope that the shock to their
nervous system might help to work a cure. But
such forcible remedies as these have long since
been given up, along with strait-waistcoats and other
restraints. Mild and gentle treatment, coupled
with firmness, is now found to be the best of
remedies. The history of the treatment of the
patients in Bethlehem, even to a date so late as
the beginning of the present century, would be a
terrible and sickening recital. In early days the
only system adopted in providing for lunatics was
one of constant repression and severity, while the
common comforts and necessities of life were
almost entirely denied to the poor creatures, who,
hopeless, chained, and neglected, wore out their
fevered lives in the filthy pesthouse, which, in 1598,
was reported to be " loathsome."

In 1770, when two wings appropriated to incura-
bles had been added to the main building in
Moorfields, the public were admitted to the hos-
pital as one of the regular London sights ; and it
may readily be imagined that the promiscuous
crowd, who were admitted at a penny each, pro-
duced a degree of excitement and confusion which
caused incalculable mischief. This state of things
lasted, with only partial improvements, till 181 5,
when the present edifice (or at least the main
building) was completed.

Now, instead of chains and loathsome cells, we
find light and handsomely-furnished apartments, as
shown above, in which the exquisite cleanliness of
everything is mingled with an air of taste and
refinement, which goes far to diminish the horrors
even of lunacy. One room upon the uppermost
floor on the men's side of the building is fitted up
as a library, magazines and periodicals lying upon
the table, for the use of the patients in their saner
moments. This apartment is in every respect as
quiet, as comfortable, as orderly, and as much
adapted to the comfort of the readers as that of
most middle-class clubs, and more than that of
many private houses.

Amongst the men there seems but little con-
versation, and not much fellowship. Smoking is
indulged in by such as care for it, and the general
aspect of the patients is that of contentment ; ex-

cepting, of course, those labouring under particular
delusions. Kindness, as we have stated, is the
only charm by which the attendants exert a mastery
over the patients, and the influence thus possessed
is most remarkable. Whilst the impression left
on the mind of the visitor is that of a mournful
gratification, it is yet blended with a feeling of
intense satisfaction, arising from a knowledge that
the comforts of his afflicted fellow-creatures are so
industriously sought after and so assiduously pro-
moted.

The system of employment carried out seems to
be that of providing means for such occupation as
can consistently be given to the patients according
to their several tastes. The decoration, painting,
graining, and so on, for the institution, was mostly
executed, a few years ago, by two patients, who,
having plenty of time before them, and not being
hurried (for no work is exacted, and no profit by
sale is ever made of work done in the hospital),
the graining, bird's-eye mapling, and general orna-
mentation in wood-work, is a sight to see.

In the rear of the building is the " play-ground,"
a large open space, set apart for the recreation and
exercise of the patients, where they may be seen
pursuing, with considerable eagerness, the different
pastimes in which their fancy leads them to indulge.
There are four of these open spaces appropriated
to recreation — two for the men, and two for the
women — and there is evidence constantly aflbrded
that this exercise not only conduces to the im-
mediate health of the inmates, but also to their
ultimate recovery. Mowing and gardening, and
gathering vegetables during fine weather, and hay-
making in the summer, are a source of employment
and of enjoyment to the men.

We have spoken above of the balls and dancing-
parties that are held in the women's ward. These
are occasionally varied by other entertainments for
the amusement of the unfortunate inmates. The
beneficial effect of these entertainments on the
minds of the patients has at times shown itself
The case of a tailor, who was, a few years ago, an
inmate here, may be taken as an instance m point.
It was mentioned in one of the general reports
at the time. It seems he had been for nearly
four years in a state of morbid insanity, with eyes
fixed moodily on the ground, neither noticing nor
speaking to any one, except an occasional mutter
of dissatisfaction if his wishes were disregarded.
On the occasion of one of the monthly parties
above referred to, an officer of the institution had
undertaken to exhibit some feats of legerdemain,
and for that purpose had disguised himself in a
black wig and a pair of moustaches. It was at

358

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Bethlehem HospitaL

first doubted whether it would be worth while to
introduce the gloomy patient amongst the company;
but Dr. Hood, at that time the principal medical
officer of the institution, had directed him to be
brought to sit next to himself, and he was induced
to favour them with his company. What strange
lucidity passed upon the man's perceptions can
never be explained, perhaps ; but, almost before he
sat down, he had looked half-heedlessly round the
room, and, recognising the conjuror through his

disguise, said, " A good make-up for ! " His

attention had been arrested at last ; he followed
the tricks, discovered the way in whicli many of
them were performed, and finally drank the Queen's
health in a glass of something from the " inex-
haustible bottle." It is scarcely necessary to
remark that from that time there was no relapse
into his former state, and that he gradually and
steadily improved.

A proof of the general health and longevity
enjoyed by the inmates may be found in the fact
that Margaret Nicholson, who tried to assassinate
George IIL at the gate of St. James's Palace, died
here in 1828, at the age of ninety-eight, after an
imprisonment of forty-two years. James Hatfield,
tvho was confined for a similar offence in 1800,
died here in 1841. The following account of
Hatfield's crime was written by Sir Herbert
Croft :—

"On the 15th of May, 1800, during a field day
of the Grenadier battalion of Foot-guards in Hyde
Park, while the king was present, a ball from one
of the soldiers shot a spectator of the name of
Ongley in the thigh, at no great distance from
his Majesty. The king showed every attention to
the wounded gentleman, but ascribed it wholly to
some accident. In the evening the royal family
repaired to the play, which had been ordered by
them at Drury Lane Theatre, as if nothing had
happened. When his Majesty entered the house,
followed by the queen and princesses, while he was
bowing to the audience, a large horse-pistol was
fired at him by Hatfield from the pit. But the
king betrayed no alarm, . . . nor discovered any
suspicion of his soldiers : though, in dragging the
assassin over the orchestra, a military waistcoat
became visible under his great coat. His Majesty
only stepped to the back of the box, and prevented
the queen from entering, saying, ' It was merely a
squib, with which they were foolishly diverting
themselves ; perhaps there might be another.'
He then, according to the account of a gentleman
who was present, returned to the box, advanced
to the front, and with folded arms and a look of
great dignity, said, ' Now fire ! ' Silent but intense

admiration burst into acclamations which shook the
theatre. Hatfield had served his time as a working
silversmith, but afterwards enlisted in the fifteenth
Light Dragoons. He served under the Duke of
York, and had a deep cut over his eye, and another
long scar on his cheek. At Lincelles he was left
three -hours among the dead in a ditch, and was
taken prisoner by the French ; he had his arm
broken by a shot, and received eight sabre wounds
in his head. On being asked what had induced him
to attempt the life of the kmg, he said, ' I did not
attempt to kill the king — I fired the pistol over the
royal box; I am as good a shot as any man in
England ; but I am weary of life and wish for death,
though not to die by my own hands. I was
desirous of raising an alarm, and hoped the spec-
tators would fall upon me ; but they did not. Still,
I trust my life is forfeited ! ' Hatfield was sub-
sequently indicted for high treason, but the jury,
being satisfied that he was of unsound mind, com-
mitted him to Bethlehem Hospital, where he died."

Among the criminal lunatics of more recent
years was Oxford, who shot at the Queen soon after
her marriage (1840). He was released many years
ago, and sent abroad under proper surveillance,
whence he corresponded, from time to time, with
his old friends in the asylum. He died in 1883.

The criminal ward possessed its aviary, plants,
and flowers, and to all appearance was as cheerful as
the other portions of the hospital ; but the criminal
lunatics were removed to Broadmoor, near Alder-
shot, during the years 1863 and 1864, and their
ward has since been converted to other purposes.

One of the most recent changes in connection
with Bethlehem has been the erection of a fine
convalescent hospital at Witley, near Godalming.
This was established by Act of Parliament, and
was brought into working order about the year
1870. To it are sent such of the patients as are
the most hopeful of recovery, to receive tlic finishing
touch, preparatory to their restoration to freedom.
The statute states that it is of great advantage to
the persons received here, "that the governors
should be able to send away from the hospital, for
the benefit of their health, but without relinquisli-
ing the care and charge of them as lunatics, such
of the same persons as are convalescent, and such
others of them as the governors may think fit to
send away." The convalescent establisiiment at
Witley has been established " for the reception
of convalescent and other patients." Regulations
have been made for the new establishment, and
the Commissioners of Lunacy visit the place as if
it were duly registered as an' hospital.

The average number of patients in the hospital

Bethlehem Hospital.]

A SAD LOVE STORY.

359

is about 300, equally divided between the sexes.
The total number of curable patients admitted
during seventy-one years, ending the 31st of De-
cember, 1891, was 15,911; and out of these the
number discharged cured was 8,692, or 547 per
cent. The deaths during the same period amounted
to 1,294, or 8'i per cent.

Bethlehem Hospital is intended mainly for
curable cases ; but unless the patient is of the
well-to-do or pauper class, and unless the symptoms
of mental disease have existed more than twelve
months, it is very rarely that a case is rejected.
A limited number of patients who are not otherwise
eligible are admitted on payment. The number
of patients received during the year 189 1 was 291 ;
and 286 were discharged within the same period.
Of these, 100 patients were sent out "not re-
covered." In every doubtful case the practice of
the committee is to give the patient the benefit of
the doubt, and allow him or her to remain under
treatment at least three months. A glance at the
.\nnual Report for 1891 shows that the inmates
admitted during the year were members of almost
every denomination, the Established Church fur-
nishing, as from its preponderance might have been
expected, by far the largest proportion, and the
Unitarians the fewest ; and that during the same
period the male patients comprised among them
no less than twenty-eight clerks, the highest number
of any other profession or occupation being five ;
whilst on the female side as many as fifteen were
governesses, a fact which is not wanting in sug-
gestiveness. Of the apparent or assigned causes
of lunacy, mental anxiety is set down as that of
twenty-nine patients, and mental work as that of
twenty-seven ; religious excitement was the cause
of bringing eight inmates to Bethlem — of these
three were males and five females ; twenty-three
were brought here through pecuniary embarrass-
ment ; and " love affairs " are set down as the
cause of upsetting the mental equilibrium of two
females.

A sad love-story, ending in madness in Bethlem,
is on record, and may not be out of place here : —
"About the year 1780, a young East Indian,
whose name was Dupree, left his fatherland to
visit a distant relation, a merchant, on Fish Street
Hill. During the young man's stay, he was waited
on by the servant of the house, a country girl,
Rebecca Griffiths, chiefly remarkable for the plain-
ness of her person, and the quiet meekness of her
manners. The circuit of pleasure run, and yearn-
ing again for home, the visitor at length prepared
for his departure ; the chaise came to the door,
and shaking of hands, with tenderer salutations,

I adieus, and farewells, followed in the usual abun-
dance. Rebecca, in whom an extraordinary depres-
sion had for some days previously been perceived,
was in attendance, to help to pack the luggage.
The leave-taking of friends and relations at length
completed, with a guinea squeezed into his humble
attendant's hand, and a brief ' God bless you,
Rebecca ! ' the young man sprang into the chaise,
the driver smacked his whip, and the vehicle was
rolling rapidly out of sight, when a piercing shriek
from Rebecca, who had stood to all appearance
vacantly gazing on what had passed, alarmed the
family, then retiring into the house. They hastily
turned round : to their infinite surprise, Rebecca
was seen wildly following the chaise. She was
rushing with the velocity of lightning along the
middle of the road, her hair streaming in the wind,
and her whole appearance that of a desperate
maniac ! Proper persons were immediately dis-
patched after her, but she was not secured till
she had gained the Borough ; when she was taken
in a state of incurable madness to Bethlehem
Hospital, where she died some years after. The
guinea he had given her — her richest treasure —
her only wealth — she never suffered, during life,
to quit her hand ; she grasped it still more firmly
in her dying moments, and at her request, in the
last gleam of returning reason — the lightning
before death — it was buried with her. There was
a tradition in Bethlem that, through the heartless
cupidity of the keeper, it was sacrilegiously
wrenched from her, and that her ghost might be
seen every night gliding through the dreary cells
of that melancholy building, in search of her lover's
gift, and mournfully asking the glaring maniacs for
her lost guinea. It was Mr. Dupree's only con-
solation, after her death, that the excessive home-
liness of her person, and her retiring air and
manners, had never even suffered him to indulge in
the most trifling freedom with her. She had loved
hopelessly, and paid the forfeiture with sense and
life."

Dr. Rhys Williams, formerly the resident phy-
sician, in the report to which we have referred above,
observes that in an asylum constructed like Beth-
lehem, on the single room system, there are many
difficulties in organising careful supervision during
the night without disturbing the patients, and
that the feeling of security may be obtained to the
detriment of the inmates. The staff of attendants,
as we learn from the Report of the Commissioners
in Lunacy, is well selected ; they consist of twenty-
six men, including the head attendant, and twenty-
nine nurses, six of whom are chiefs of wards. The
night-watch consists of three men in the mile

36o

OLD AND NEW LONDONv

[Bethlehem Hospital.

division, and four nurses on the other side. The
attendants make their rounds of the wards at certain
intervals throughout the night ; and in order to
ascertain that these duties are regularly performed,
an instrument has been devised, in the shape of a
check or " tell-tale " clock, affixed in the wall of
each ward. The warder, in going his rounds,
on arriving at each of these clocks, presses upon
them a duplicate paper clock-face, properly lined

or require the permanent and exclusive attendance
of a nurse. A preference is always given to
patients of the educated classes, to secure accom-
modation for whom, no patient is received who is
a proper object for admission into a pauper county
asylum. A printed form, to be filled up by the
friend or guardian of the lunatic, can be obtained
from the authorities at the hospital. In this form
is a certificate, to be signed by the minister, church-

A WARD IN BErHLEHEM HOSrlTAL, 1S74.

for the various rounds, and by this means receives
upon it the impress of a metal letter at the time
indicated. Each of the six wards has a different
letter, thus— R. E. F. O. R. M.

A few words for the guidance of persons apply-
ing for the admission of patients may not be out
of place here. All poor lunatics presumed to be
curable are eligible for admission into this hospital
for maintenance and medical treatment : except
those who have sufficient means for their suitable
maintenance in a private asylum ; those who have
been insane more than twelve months, and are
considered by the resident physician to be in-
curable ; and also those who are in a state of
idiotcy, or are subject to epileptic fits, or whose
condition threatens the speedy dissolution of life,

warden, or overseer of the parish in which the
lunatic has resided, setting forth that he (or she)
is a proper object for admission into Betiilehem
Hospital. A list of the several articles of clothing
required to be brought for the use of the patient
is also appended to the form ; and it is also parti-
cularly set forth that during the abode of the
patient in the hospital tlie friends are not to furnish
any other articles of clothing than those mentioned,
unless by the written request or jiermission of the
steward or matron. The friends of the patient are
likewise strictly prohibited from giving money to
tlie servants to purchase any articles of clothing
for the ])aticnts ; and tliey are not allowed to offer
or give any fee, gratuity, or ])resent, to any of
the servants, under any pretence whatever. The

St. George's Fields.l

DR. JOHNSON ON MADNESS.

361

infringement of tliese regulations will involve not
only the dismissal of the servant, but also the dis-
charge of the patient from the hospital.

We may also add that patients, when sufficiently
convalescent, are allowed to be seen by their friends
at certain fixed periods ; and that, by an order from
one of the governors, visitors can be admitted to
the hospital on Tuesdays and the three following
days in each week.

there; to which Johnson replies, "Nay, madam,
you see nothing there to hurt you. You no more
think of madness by having windows that look to
Bedlam than you think of death by having windows
that look to a churchyard." Mrs. Buniey : "We
may look to a churchyard, sir ; for it is right that
we should be kept in mind of deatii." Johnson :
" Nay, madam ; if you go to that, it is right that
we should be kept in mind of madness, which is

KING EUW.iRD S SCHOOL, ST. GKOKGE S FIELDS.

Readers of Charles Dickens will not have for-
gotten how he makes his "Uncommercial Traveller"
wander by Bethlehem Hospital on his way to West-
minster, pondering on the problem whether the
sane and the insane are not equal : at all events,
at night, when the sane lie a-dreaming. " Are not
all of us outside of this hospital who dream more or
less in the condition of those inside it every night
of our lives ? " A very pertinent remark for those
who really have entered into the philosophy of
dreams and dreamland.

In Boswell's " Life of Johnson " we read how
poor Mrs. Burney wondered that some very beauti-
ful new buildings should be erected in Moorfields.
in so shocking a situation as between Bedlam and
St. Luke's Hospital, and said she could not live
271

occasioned by too much indulgence of imagination.
I think a very moral use may be made of these new
buildings — I would have those who have heated
imaginations live there, and take warning." Mrs.
Burney: "But, sir, many of the poor people that
are mad have become so from disease or from dis-
tressing events. It is, therefore, not their fault, but
their misfortune ; and, therefore, to think of them
is a melancholy consideration." These remarks,
we need scarcely add, are as applicable to the
present situation of " Bedlam " as they were to its
old site in Moorfields.

From the interior of Bethlehem the change is
pleasant to a building which adjoins it on the
eastern side, and is under the same management,
namely, King Edward's School, which was estab-

362

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[St. George's FielJs.

lished here early in the present century. It was
formerly known as " King Edward's School, or the
House of Occupation," and was constructed for
the accommodation of 150 girls, and about the
same number of boys ; but the latter have, within
the last few years, been removed to Widey, near
(lodalming, and lodged in some school buildings
contiguous to Bethlehem Convalescent Hospital.
The ground-plan of the building here is in the form
of the letter H, the domestic offices, \vith the chapel
above, occupying the central portion. On the
ground-floor of the principal front are two large
school-rooms and class-rooms, and also some of the
rooms in which the girls are taught domestic duties,
such as washing and ironing, &c. The rooms for
needlework are in the rear part of the building.
The dormitories are large, well-ventilated apart-
ments, and scrupulously clean and tidy in their
appearance. The play-ground is divided from the
recreation-ground and garden of Bethlehem by
only a wall and a path ; and yet, what a contrast
1 etween the inmates of the two institutions ! The
bright faces of the girls are of themselves a comment
on the lines of the cavalier, Lovelace —

" Stone walls do not a prison make,
Nor iron bars a cage ;
Minds innocent and quiet take
That for a hermitage."

The boys' school at Witley was in 1S77-8
considerably enlarged by the erection of two new
dormitories, planned to accommodate about fifty
additional children. Similarly the girls' school has
been judiciously re-arranged for the same additional
number. The children are orphans, or such as
have lost their fathers' aid through illness or other
affliction ; they are admitted at the age of twelve,
and stay in the school for four years, when situations
are obtained for them. The excellent teaching and
training which the girls receive here render them
highly qualified for situations as domestic servants ;
and the characters of such as have left the school,
received from time to time by the matron, are
almost invariably good. About seventy girls are
annually placed out in situations by the institution ;
whilst the applications for servants which reach the
matron are, generally speaking, far more numerous
tiian can be met by the supply.

At a short distance from Betlilehem Hospital,
on the site formerly occupied by the Asylum for
Female Orphans, at the junction of Kennington
Road with Westminster Bridge Road, of which
^.'e have spoken in the preceding chapter, stands
Christ Church, a new non-denominational church,
which has been erected to pcrpettiate the work
inaugurated by Rowland Hill at Surrey Chapel. It

was opened on the 4th of July, 1876, the centenary
of American independence. Tiie church, a fine
specimen of Gothic architecture, is one of the hand-
somest ecclesiastical edifices in the metropolis. The
cost, including lecture-hall, tower, &c., was ^60,000.
The organ, a very powerful instrument by Messrs.
Lewis, has three manuals and a pedale, 41 stops, and
2,198 pipes. Towards the cost of these buildings
upwards of ^£'30,000 have been contributed by
friends outside the congregation, the greater part
of which has been collected by the Rev. Newman
Hall, during two visits to America, and by lectur-
ing, preaching, and other means, in Great Britain.
There is ample sitting accommodation for 2,500
persons. The interior, which boasts of several
stained-glass windows, and an ornamental oak roof,
has an appearance approaching that of a cathedral,
to which the service closely corresponds. At one
corner of the church is a tower, surmounted by
a lofty spire. This structure, called the " Lincoln
Tower," owes its origin to the suggestion of some
American citizens, at the close of the civil war,
that it should be built at the cost of Americans,
as a testimony to the sympathy expressed for the
Union by the Rev. Newman Hall and his congre-
gation. The tower, the cost of which was;^7,ooo,
contributed in England and America, is upwards of
200 feet in height. The "stars and stripes" are
inwrought in the stone, and the British Lion and
American Eagle together adorn the angles of the
tower. In the tower are two spacious chambers,
designated the "Washington" and "Wilberforce "
Rooms ; these are used as class-rooms. Mr. New-
man Hall resigned the pastorate in 1892, and was
succeeded by the Rev. F. B. Meyer, a Bajjtist.

Adjoining Christ Church, and in an architectural
sense forming a part of it, is another building, de-
voted to religious and philanthropic purposes, called
•' Hawkstone Hall," after the seat of the head of
Rowland Hill's family (Lord Hill), in Shropshire.
It is sixty-three feet long by fifty feet wide, with a
square gallery, and has sitting accommodation for
about 700, the woodwork being a stained pitch pine.
In the basement beneath the lecture-hall are five
class-rooms, one of which will hold 150 infants,
besides another large room, in which meetings are
occasionally held.

In the last century, as we have seen, St. George's
Fields — now the site of numerous palaces of philan-
thropy—was the scene of low dissipation; and here,
on the very focus of the " No Popery " riots of
1780, has arisen the Roman Catholic Cathedral
dedicated to St. George. This singular evidence
of the mutations to which localities are subject,
and striking proof of our advance in liberality cf

St. George's Fields.]

ST. GEORGE'S (R.C.) CATHEDRAL.

363

opinion, occupies a large plot of ground at the junc-
tion of the Lambeth, Westminster, and St. George's
Roads, and nearly facing Bethlehem Hospital.

For many years previously to the erection of the
Pro-Cathedral at Kensington, St. George's Cathedral
had quite eclipsed St. Mary's, Moorfields, as the
chief church of the Roman Catholic body, especially
during the years 1850-52, whilst Cardinal Wiseman
administered the diocese of Southwark as well as
that of Westminster. It was built between the years
1840 and 1848 : the Kings of Bavaria and Sar-
dinia, and nearly the whole of the English Roman
Catholic aristocracy, were large contributors to its
erection ; whilst the Irish poor, including the waifs
and strays of St. Patrick's Schools in Soho, and
other very poor districts, sent their pence.

" This cathedral," writes Mr. R. Chambers, in
his " Book of Days," " by a happy retribution, is
built on the very spot where Lord George Gordon's
riots were inaugurated by a Protestant mob meet-
ing," a fact to which we have already drawn the
attention of our readers in the previous chapter.*
It is said that the high altar stands as nearly as
possible on the very spot on which the mad-cap
leader, Lord George Gordon, rallied his " No
Popery" rioters in 1780, previous to marching to
Westminster — a curious retribution, if true ; but^
after all, this may be only a tradition.

The cathedral was designed by Mr. Augustus
W. Pugin, who, however, always complained that
he had been cramped and crippled in the carrying
out of his plans, as he was originally called upon
to design a parish church, and not a cathedral.
Unfortunately, the position of the church is reversed
— the high altar, in contrast to that of most Gothic
churches, being at the west instead of the east end.
It has no galleries, save one small one at the end
of the nave for the organ, and will accommodate
3,000 worshippers.

There was a Roman Catholic " mission " in this
neighbourhood as far back as the year 1788, eight
years after Lord George Gordon's riots : mass
having been formerly said secretly in a modest and
humble room in Bandyleg Walk, near Guildford
Street, now New Park Street.f A site for a
chapel was procured in that year in the London
Road, and a chapel was erected in 1789-93, at
the cost of about ;^2,ooo. It was opened
on St. Patrick's Day, March, 1793, the sermon
being preached by Father O'Leary. This chapel
served for fifty years as the centre of ministra-
tions for the Roman Catholic clergy in Southwark ;
but eventually it was found too small, and it was

* See nnte^ p. 346,

t See ante, p. 44.

resolved to supersede it by a larger and handsomer
edifice. This chapel became subsequently a music-
hall, and is now called the South London Palace.
The site of the new cathedral was purchased,
in the year 1839, from the Bridge House Estate,
for ^3,200. The foundations were commenced
in September, 1840, and the foundation-stone was
laid on the Feast of St. Augustine, the apostle of
England, in the following May. It was " solemnly
dedicated " on the Festival of St. Alban, first
martyr of England, July 4th, 1848, the ceremony
being attended by bishops from all the " five
quarters " of the world ; the high mass being sung,
and the sermon preached by Dr. Wiseman, who,
two years afterwards, was here formally installed as
Archbishop of Westminster, in December, 1850, a
few weeks after receiving his cardinal's hat. Here
also the new-made cardinal preached his cele-
brated series of sermons, explanatory of the step
taken by the Pope in restoring the Roman Cathohc
hierarchy in England.

The church, which is built in the Decorated or
Edwardian style of Pointed architecture, consists of
a nave, chancel, and side aisles, without transepts ;
it has also no clerestory — a want which sadly de-
tracts from its elevation and dignity. It measures
internally 240 feet by 70. The material employed
in its construction is yellow brick, instead of stone,
which by no means adds to its beauty. The total
cost of the building, irxluding the residence for the
bishop and his clergy adjoining, was a little over
;^35,ooo. A chantry at the end of the north aisle
was built by the family of the late Hon. Edward
Petre, M.P., in order that masses might be said
there daily for the repose of his soul. This was
probably the first chantry so built in modern times.
There is a second chantry, founded by the family of
the late Mr. John Knill, of Blackheath. Attached
to the church is a staff of clergy, who attend also
the workhouses of Lambeth, St. George's, St.
Saviour's, and Newington, together with Bethlehem
and St. Thomas's Hospitals, and Horsemonger Lane
Prison. Among the former clergy of St. George's
was the Honourable and Rev. George Talbot,
formerly a clergyman of the Established Church,
afterwards chamberlain to Pope Pius IX. The
tower still remains incomplete ; but when sur-
mounted with a spire it will be upwards of 300
feet high. The chancel is deep, and enclosed with
an ornamental screen. On either side of the high
altar are chapels of the Blessed Sacrament and Our
Lady. The font, which stands in the southern aisle,
is of stone, octagonal in shape, and highly de-
corated with images of angels, the Four Evangelists,
and the Doctors of the Church. The organ, which

3^4

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[St. Gf^org^'s Fields.

Stands in the tower, under a pointed arch forty feet
in height, is a powerful instrument. The pulpit,
which stands in the nave, attached to the third
pillar from the chancel on the northern side, is
hexagonal. It is supported by marble shafts ; on
four sides of the pulpit are bassi felievi, elaborately
carved, representing our Lord delivering the sermon
on the mount, St. John the Baptist preaching in
the wilderness, and the preaching of the religious
Orders of St. Francis and St. Dominic. These
sculptures are e.xecuted with all the severity of the
early Florentine school, and many of the figures
are studies from nature and real drapery. The
ascent to the pulpit is by a series of detached
steps, each supported by a marble shaft, with
carved capitals, to which is attached an iron railing.
The work is executed in Caen stone, e.xcept the
shafts, which are of British marble. The large
window in the tower contains figures of St. George
the ALartyr (to whom the church is dedicated), St.
Richard, St. Ethelbert, St. Oswald, St. Edmund,
and St. Edward the Confessor, with angels bearing
scrolls and musical instruments. The rood-screen,
of stone, consists of three open arches, resting on
marble shafts, with richly carved foliated capitals ;
above it stands the cross, bearing the figure of the
Redeemer of the world, and on either side stand
tiie Virgin Mary and the Beloved Disciple. The
cross itself is an original work of the fifteenth
century ; the figure of our Lord is from the chisel
of the celebrated M. Durlet, of Antwerp ; the two
other images were carved in England.

hi spite of the profuse decoration of the chancel
and its side chapels, it must be owned that the
nave of St. George's has a singularly bare and
naked appearance, which is increased by the starved
proportions of the pillars that mark it off from the
side aisles. At the lower end of the church, near
the chief entrance, is a huge crucifix, at the foot of
which, at almost every hour of the day, may be
seen many devout worshippers.

The great window, over the high altar, is of nine
lights ; it is filled with stained glass, representing
the Root of Jesse, or the genealogy of our Lord,
the gift of John, Earl of Shrewsbury. The side
windows contain figures of St. George, St. Lawrence,
St. Stephen, &c. The high altar and the tabernacle
are carved exquisitely in Caen stone ; and the
reredos, also of stone, contains twelve niches filled
with saints and angels. The two side chapels arc
very elaborately carved and ornamented ; and the
Petre Chantry is Perpendicular, and not Decorated,
in style. The tomb of Mr. Edward I'ctre is
covered with a slab, the legend on which requests
the prayers of tiic faithful for the soul of the founder,

who died in June, 1848. The church is opened
from six in the morning till nightfall, and contains
a large number of religious confraternities.

The bishop's house, where the clergy of this
cathedral live in common, is very plain and simple
in its outward appearance, and also in its internal
arrangements, being arranged on the ordinary plan
of a college. The house of the bishop, it must
be owned, is anything but a modern " palace;" it
looks and is a mass of conventual buildings ; and,
to use the words of Charles Knight's "Cyclopaedia
of London," it exhibits more of studied irregularity
and quaint homeliness than of pretension as regards
design, or even severity of character. "Although
these buildings," the writer adds, "are not alto-
gether deficient in character, yet, were not their
real purpose known, they might easily pass for an
almshouse or a hospital."

At a short distance eastward, covering, with its
gardens, a large triangular plot of ground, stands
the School for the Indigent Blind. This institution
was originally established in 1799, at the "Dog
and Duck," in St. George's Fields, and for some
time received only fifteen persons as inmates. " The
site being required for the building of Bethlehem
Hospital," writes John Timbs, in his " Curiosities
of London," " about two acres of ground were
allotted opposite the Obelisk at the end of Black-
friars Road, and there a plain school house for the
blind was built. In 1826 the school was incorpo-
rated ; and in the two following years three legacies
of ^500 each, and one of ;^io,ooo, were be-
queathed to the establishment. In 1834 additional
ground was purchased and the school-house re-
modelled, so as to form a portion of a more exten-
sive edifice in the Tudor or domestic Gothic style,
designed by Mr. John Newman, F.S.A. The
tower and gateway in the north front are very
picturesque. The school will accommodate about
220 inmates. The pupils are clothed, lodged, and
boarded, and receive a religious and industrial
education, so that many of them have been returned
to their families able to earn from 6s. to 8s. per
week. Applicants are not received under twelve,
nor above thirty, years of age, nor if they have a
greater degree of sight than will enable them to
distinguish light from darkness. The admission is
by votes of the subscribers ; and persons between
the ages of twelve and eighteen have been found
to receive the greatest benefit from the institution."
The women and girls are employed in knitting
stockings, needlework, and embroidery ; in spin-
ning, and making household and body-linen, netting
silk, and in fine basket-making ; besides working
hoods for babies, work-bags, purses, slippers, &c-

St. George's Fields.]

SCHOOL FOR THE INDIGENT BLIND.

365

Many of these are of very tasteful design, in colour
as well as in form. The men and boys make
wicker baskets, cradles, and hampers ; rope door-
mats and worsted rugs ; brushes of various kinds ;
and tliey make all the shoes for the inmates of the
school. Reading is mostly taught by Alston's
laised or embossed letters, in which the Old and
New Testaments and the Liturgy have been printed.
Both males and females are remarkably cheerful in
their employment ; they have great taste and apt-
ness for music, and they are instructed in it, not as
a mere amusement, but with a view to engagements
as organists or teachers of psalmody. In fact,
here, and here only in London, a blind choir, led
by a blind organist, may be heard performing the
compositions of Handel, Mozart, and Mendelssohn
with great accuracy and effect. Once a year a
concert of sacred music is given in the chapel or
music-room, to which the public are admitted by
tickets, the proceeds from the sale of such tickets
being added to the funds of the institution. An
organ and one or two pianofortes are provided for
teaching ; fiddles in plenty, too, may be seen in
the work-rooms on the men's side. The inmates
receive, as pocket-money, part of their earnings ;
and on leaving the school a sum of money and a
set of tools for their respective trades are given to
each of them.

A touching picture of a visit to the Blind School
was given by a writer in the Echo newspaper, from
which we quote the following. The writer, after
describing his visit to the basket-making room,
proceeds : " I knelt on the floor to watch one
little boy's fingers, as he was making what might be
a waste-paper basket ; my face was almost against
his, but he was utterly unconscious of my presence,
so that I could see the little hands as they groped
about for materials, and the little fingers as they
wove so diligently and so nimbly. Suddenly,
whilst I was almost touching him, the boy startled
me by saying to himself, aloud, ' That must be a
lie about there being a hall in the West which holds
eight thousand people and has fifty stops in the
organ.' Fifteen of the inmates had been taken to
an oratorio the night before, and he had heard
them talking of it and of the Albert Hall ; now he
was talking to himself about it as he wove, quite
unconscious that my face was against his. I
touched his hand, and the busy weaving stopped, the
hands fell on the lap, and the sightless eyes looked
round for that light which only can break on them
on the morn of the resurrection. . . . The
girls' room is singularly light and airy. The light
is of no use, but the air is. I was bending down,
v;ith my fingers before the eyes of a child of six,

whom I could hardly believe to be blind, when 1
felt a touch upon my head, and, looking back, I saw
three blind girls, with their arms entwined, one of
whom, feeling in the darkness for the very little
girl I was looking at, had touched my hair ; they
drew back respectfully, and waited until the stranger
was gone. Up and down this long girls' work-
room, at the hour of recreation, they walk in twos
and threes, apparently quite happy, talking inces-
santly. When I left that room I thought that there
was more real light in it than in most of the ball-
rooms I had ever entered."

The number of pupils in the school is about 200,
and the articles manufactured entirely by them
realise a profit of about J[,T^o per annum. The
school is maintained at an annual cost of about
;£'io,ooo, which is covered by the receipts derived
from voluntary contributions and from dividends.

In the Borough Road, within about two or three
minutes' walk of the Blind School, used to be the
headquarters of the British and Foreign School So-
ciety, now removed to the Temple Chambers, Vic-
toria Embankment. The British, or, as they were
originally called, Lancasterian Schools, had great in-
fluence during the first seventy years of the present
century in raising the stateof education in thecountry
among the poorer classes. Without entering into the
disputed claims of Dr. Bell and Joseph Lancaster, as
to who was the first to originate the peculiar system
pursued at these schools, there can be no doubt
but that, by the energy of the latter, a practical step
of great importance was made towards developing
a regular, efficient, and economical plan of teaching.
Dr. Bell did much the same kind of work at
Madras, but not till Lancaster had already com-
menced his labours here. Joseph Lancaster was
born in Kent Street, Southwark, on the 27th of
November, 1778. When only fourteen years old,
he read Clarkson's " Essay on the Slave Trade,"
and, it is said, was so much moved by its state-
ments that he started from home, without the
knowledge of his parents, on his way to Jamaica,
to teach the "poor blacks" to read the Word of
God. While still young, he became a member of
the Society of Friends, and soon after this his
attention was directed to the educational wants of
the poor. The lamentable condition and useless
character of the then existing schools for poor
cliildren filled his mind with pity and a desire
to provide a remedy, and in 1796 he made his
first public efforts in education. Before this time,
however, he had gathered a number of children
together, and his fiither had provided the school-
room rent free. When not yet eighteen, he had
nearly ninety children under instruction, many of

366

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Borough Road.

whom paid no school fee. When only in his
twenty-first year, he had nearly a thousand children
assembled around him in his new premises in the
Borough Road. Mr. Lancaster had not proceeded
far in his attempts before he was confronted by a
great difficulty. Possessed of small means, and
surrounded by pupils with no means at all, he
must either relinquish his benevolent work, or
discover some method of conducting his school
without paid teachers and without books. In this
dilemma he hit upon the plan of training the elder
and more advanced children to teach and govern
the young and less advanced scholars ; and he
denominated this method of conducting a school
the "monitorial system." To overcome the diffi-
culty about books, he caused large sheets to be
printed over with the necessary lessons, had them
pasted on boards, and hung up on the school walls ;
round each lesson some ten or twelve children
were placed, under the care of a trained monitor.
This system quickly attracted considerable notice ;
and in 1S05 Mr. Lancaster had an interview with
George III., on which occasion his Majesty uttered
the memorable words, " It is my wish that every
poor child in my kingdom may be taught to read
the Bible." The Duke of Bedford gave Lancaster
early and cordial assistance ; and the most flatter-
ing overtures were made to him in connection with
the proposition that he should join the Established
Church : all which, as a Dissenter, he respectfully
but firmly declined. About this time Lancaster's
affairs were so embarrassed, through the rapid
extension of his plans of teaching, that in 180S he
placed them in the hands of trustees, and a volun-
tary society was formed to continue the good work
which he had begun. Hence the society which,
in 1813, designated itself the "Institution for Pro-
moting the British (or Lancasterian) System for the
Education of the Labouring and Manufacturing
Classes of Society of every religious persuasion,"
but now known simply as the " British and Foreign
School Society." The work was subsequently
taken up and put on a sound foundation by Mr.
William Allen, of Plough Court, a man of means,
and a Quaker, who became treasurer of the institu-
tion, and whose portrait now adorns the committee's
board-room. In tlie meantime, namely, in iSii,
the "National Society" had been started by the
Church of England, in opposition to Lancaster's
"monitorial system."

From the great encouragement given to Lan-
caster by many persons of the higliest rank, he
was enabled to travel over the kingdom, for the
purpose of delivering lectures, giving instructions,
and cstabiisiiing sciiuols. " Flallercd by splendid

patronage," says his biographer in the Gentleman' s
Magazine, " and by unrealised promises of support,
he was induced to embark in an extensive school
establishment at Tooting, to which his own re-
sources proving unequal, he was thrown upon the
mercy of cold calculators, who consider unpaid
debts as unpardonable crimes. Concessions were,
however, made to his merit, which not considering
as sufficient, he abandoned his old establishment,
and left England in disgust, and, about the year
1820, went to America, where his fame procured
him friends and his industry rendered him useful."
He died at New York, in October, 1838, in the
sixty-ninth year of his age. His memory is now
perpetuated in this neighbourhood by Lancaster
Street, a name which has within the last few years
been bestowed upon Union Street, a thoroughfare
crossing the Borough Road in a slanting direction,
connecting the southern end of Blackfriars Road
with Newington Causeway, and skirting the east
side of the school-buildings. Mr. Lancaster for
some years had his school-room in this street,
not a great deal more than a stone's throw from
the buildirig in the Borough Road ; and as lately as
the commencement of the present century, the
little children who attended the schools were often
unable to reach tlie school-room, because " the
waters were out." There was a large ditch, or
rather a small rivulet, which ran northwards down
from Newington Butts, and found its way into the
Thames near Paris Garden.

The institution in the Borough Road in the
first place was, as we have said, the Society's seat
of government ; secondly, here were held the
model schools, wherein were taught 350 boys,
and in which the Society desired to have at all
times examples at hand for imitation by the branch
schools, and into which, accordingly, improved
methods of tuition were from time to time intro-
duced. Thirdly, there were here some normal
seminaries for the instruction of future masters,
who, whilst teaching in the model class-schools,
were students themselves in the art of tuition, the
most practically important branch of their studies.
Of the female training college in connection with
the British and Foreign School Society we have
spoken in our account of Slock well.*

These schools, though they profess to stand on
a Nonconformist basis, are so liberal and unsect-
arian in their teaching that they number among
their patrons many lay members of the Established
Church, and even two of its dignitaries, Dr. Temple,
now Bishop of London, and Dr. Stanley, late Dean

• Sec ante, p. 319.

CHRIST CHURCH, WESTMINSTER BRIDGE ROAD. (i^« A 362.)

368

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tBlackfiiars Road.

of Westminster. The scholars and teachers attend-
ing the schools may be put down as comprising
about thirty per cent, of Episcopalians, twenty per
cent, of the Baptist, and thirty per cent, of the Con-
gregationalist denomination.

The " pupil-teacher system " may be said to
have grown out of the monitorial plan of Bell
and Lancaster. It was originated about 1844, but
has gradually come to be adopted in nearly all
the British schools, which really, from an educa-
tional point of view, are identical in plan with
the National, Wesleyan, and other schools in con-
nection with the Education Department.

The Borough Road College, which stood on the

south side of the Borough Road, was a large and
lofty but plain edifice of four storeys, consisting of
a centre and wings, the latter, however, extending
backwards, and partly connected with each other
by buildings in the rear of the central front. Faced
with red brick, it was finished off with stone
dressings in the shape of cornices, &c. The
edifice was commenced about the year 1840, and
first occupied in 1844. The Female Training
School, which at first formed part of it, was re-
moved in 1861, as already stated, to more spacious
premises at Stockwell ; the College for Masters was
a few years ago removed from the Borough Road
to Isleworth.

CHAPTER XXVIII.
BLACKFRIARS RO.\D.— THE SURREY THE.\TRE, SURREY CHAPEL, &c.

Formation of Blackfrlars Road — The Surrey Theatre, originally the " Royal Circus and Equestrian Philharmonic Academy " — The Circus bunit
down in 1805 — The Amphitheatre rebuilt, and under the Management of Eljiston — The Manager in a Fix — The Theatre burnt down
in 1865, and rebuilt the same year— Lord Camelford and a Drunken Naval Lieutenant— The " Equestrian " Tavern— A Favourite Local ty
for Actors — An Incident in Charles Dickens' Boyhood— The I'emperance Hall — The South London Working Men's College — The South
London Tramway Company — The Mission College of St, Alphege — Nelson Square — The " Dogs Head in the Pot " — Surrey Chapel — The
Rev. Rowland Hill— Almshouses founded by him — Paris Garden — Christ Church—Stamford Street— The Unitarian Chapel — Messrs
Clowes' Printing Office— Hospital for Diseases of the Skin— The "Haunted Houses" of Stamford Street— Ashton Lever's Museum— The
Rotunda— The Albion Mills.

This great thoroughfare — which, starting at Black-
friars Bridge, meets five other roads at the obelisk
in St. George's Circus — assumed something like
its present shape and appearance in the last half
of the last century. It seems at one time to have
been called St. George's Road, but was long known
as Great Surrey Street. The road is perfectly
straight, and is about two-thirds of a mile in length.
Pennant, as ■we have already remarked, describes
the roads crossing St. George's Fields as being "the
wonder of foreigners approaching by this road to
our capital, through avenues of lamps, of mag-
nificent breadth and goodness." One foreign am-
bas.sador, indeed, thought London was illuminated
in honour of his arrival ; but, adds Pennant, " this
was written before the shameful adulteration of
the oil," which dimmed the " glorious splendour ! "
Pennant, doubtless, was a knowing man ; but he
lived before the age of electric light.

One of the earliest buildings of any note which
were erected in this road was Christ Church, near
the bridge on the west side, occupying part of
the site of old Paris Garden ; then came Row-
land Hill's Chapel, or, as it is now generally called,
" Surrey Chapel," of both of which we shall speak
more fully presently. Next came tlio Magdalen
Hospital, which we have already described ; and

finally, the Surrey Theatre. The early history of
this theatre, if Mr. E. L. Blanchard states correctly
the facts in his sketch of it, the " Playgoer's Port-
folio," affords an illustration of the difticulties
under which the minor theatres laboured in their
struggle against the patented monopoly of Drury
Lane and Covent Garden. The place was first
opened under the title of the " Royal Circus and
Equestrian Philharmonic Academj'," in the year
1782, by the famous composer and song-writer,
Charles Dibdin, aided by Charles Huglies, a clever
equestrian performer. It was originally planned
for the display of equestrian and dramatic enter-
tainments, on a plan similar to that pursued with
so much success at Astley's. The entertainments
were at first performed by children, the design
being to render the circus a nursery for actors.
The ])lay-bills of the first few months' performances
end with a notice to the effect that a "Horse-patrol
is provided from Bridge to Bridge." The theatre,
however, having been opened without a licence, was
closed by order of the Surrey magistrates, but this
was not done without a disturbance, and until the
Riot Act had been read on the very stage itself.
In the following year a licence was obtained, and
the theatre being rc-opcncd, a successful harvest
appeared now in prospect, when differences arose

Blackfrinrs RomJ.]

THE SURREY THEATRE.

369

among the proprietors which seriously threatened its
ruin. Delphini, a celebrated buffo, was appointed
manager in 17SS, in succession to Grimaldi, the
grandfather of the celebrated clown of Covent
Garden and Sadler's Wells Theatres ; he produced
a splendid spectacle, with a real stag-hunt, &c.
Then there were several "dog-pieces," so called
because they were put together in order to intro-
duce upon the stage as actors two knowing dogs,
"Gelert" and ''Victor," whose popularity was such
that they had an hour every day set apart for
them to receive visitors. Afterwards a series of
" Lectures on Heads " was given here by a Mr.
Stevens,* and many pantomimic and local pieces
were performed with indifferent success ; among
the latter were the " Destruction of the Bastile,"
" Death of General Wolfe," &:c. The popularity of
the theatre was largely increased by the skill of
a new stage manager, John Palmer, a gay-hearted
comedian, who rather enjoyed than otherwise a
life " within the Rules of the King's Bench ;" but
this gleam of sunshine came to an end, in 1789,
by the arbitrary and (it would seem) illegal com-
mittal of Palmer to the Surrey Gaol as a " rogue
and a vagabond," a clause being, at the same time,
inserted in the Debtor's Act making all such places
of amusement "out of the Rules."

Having been conducted for several years by a
Mr. James Jones and his son-in-law, John Cross,
as lessees, with average success, the Circus was
destroyed by fire in August, 1805 ; it was, how-
ever, rebuilt and re-opened at Easter, 1806. In
1809 the lesseeship was taken in hand by EUiston,
who introduced several of Shakespeare's plays, and
otherwise endeavoured to raise the character of the
house. His success was such that he now resolved
to attempt an enlargement of the privileges of his
licence, a step which is thus recorded by Mr. E. L.
Blanchard : " Hitherto the performances authorised
did not permit the introduction of a dialogue,
except it was accompanied by music throughout.
On the 5th of March, iSio, Sir Thomas Turton
presented to tlie House of Commons a petition for
enabling Mr. Elliston and his colleagues to exhibit
' all such entertainments of music and action as
are commonly called pantomimes and ballets,
together with operatic or musical pieces, accom-
panied with dialogue.' The petition, however, was
rejected, on the ground that it would 'go far to
alter the whole principle upon which theatrical
entertainments are at present regulated within the
metropolis and twenty miles round.' The expenses
of this fruitless appeal were ;£ioo for the petition.

* See Vol. II., p. 539.

and ^^o more for a second application to the
Privy Council."

The amphitheatre, which had previously been
the arena for occasional equestrian exercises, was
now converted into a commodious pit for the spec-
tators, and the stables into saloons. Melo-dramas
now became the order of the day ; and here Miss
Sally Brook made her first appearance in London.
All sorts of varieties followed. One piece was
brought out specially to exhibit two magnificent
suits of armour of the fourteenth century, which
afterwards appeared in the Lord Mayor's show.+

Tom Dibdin, in 18 16, having offered his services
as stage-manager under Elliston, the Circus was
extensively altered and re-opened as " The Surrey,''
and he held sway here till 1S22. After that time the
theatre had a somewhat chequered existence, and
on the whole may be said to have been one of the
chief homes of the English sensational melodrama.
At one time the gig in which Thurtell drove, and
the table on which he supped, when he murdered
Mr. Weare, were exhibited ; and at another, the
chief attraction was a man-ape, Mons. Goufild In
1 82 7 Elliston became lessee a second time, and
made several good hits, being seconded by such
actors as T. P. Cooke, Mrs. Fitzwilliam, &c.

It wic. perhaps during the lesseeship of Elliston
that the greatest " hit " was made at " The Surrey."
" Elliston," as a writer in the Monthly Magazine tells
us, " was, in his day, the Napoleon of Drury Lane,
but, like the conqueror of Austerlitz, he suftered
his declensions, and the Surrey became to him a St.
Helena. However, once an eagle always an eagle ;
and Robert William was no less aquiline in the day
of adversity than in his palmy time of patent pros-
perity. He was born to carry things with a high
hand, and he but fulfilled his destiny. The anecdote
we are about to relate is one of the ten thousand
instances of his lordly bearing. When, on one occa-
sion, ' no effects ' was written over the treasury-door
of Covent Garden Theatre, it will be remembered
that several actors proffered their services gratis,
in aid of the then humble but now arrogant and
persecuting establishment ; among these patriots
was Mr. T. P. Cooke. The Covent Garden
managers jumped at the offer of the actor, who
was in due time announced as having, in the true
play-bill style, ' most generously volunteered his
services for six nights ! ' Cooke was advertised for
' William,' Elliston having ' most generously lent
[N.B., this was ;;(7/put in the bill] the musical score
of Black-Eyed Susan, together with the identical
captains' coats worn at a hundred and fifty court-

t See Vol. I., p. 320.

370

Oi.D AND NEW I,ONDON.

[BUckfriarii Road.

martials at the Surrey Theatre. Cooke — the score
■ — the coats, were all accepted, and made the most
of by the now prosecuting managers of Covent
Garden, who cleared out of the said Cooke, score,
and coats one thousand pounds at half-price on the
first six nights of their exhibition. This is a fact ;
nay, we have lately heard it stated that all the sum
was specially banked, to be used in a future war
against the minors. Cooke was then engaged for
twelve more nights, at ten pounds per night — a
hackney-coach bringing him each night, hot from
the Surrey stage, where he had previously made
bargemen weep and thrown nursery-maids into con-
vulsions. VVell, time drove on, and Cooke drove
into the country. Elliston, who was always classical,
having a due veneration for that divine ' creature,'
Shakespeare, announced, on the anniversary of the
poet's birthday, a representation of the Stratford
Jubilee. The wardrobe was ransacked, the property-
man was on the alert, and, after much preparation,
everything was in readiness for the imposing
spectacle. No ! There was one thing forgotten —
one important ' property ! ' ' Bottom ' must be a
' feature ' in the procession ; and there was no ass's
head ! It would not do for the acting manager
to apologise for the absence of the head — no, he
could not have the face to do it. A head must be
procured. Every one was in doubt and trepida-
tion, when hope sounded in the clarion-Hke voice of
Robert William. ' Ben ! ' exclaimed Elliston, ' take
pen, ink, and paper, and write as follows.' Ben
(Mr. Benjamin Fairbrother, the late manager's
most trusted secretary) sat 'all ear,' and Elliston,
with finger on nether lip, proceeded — ' My dear
Charles, — I am about to represent, " with entirely
new dresses, scenery, and decorations," the Strat-
ford Jubilee, in honour of the sweet swan of Avon.
My scene-painter is the finest artist (except your
Grieve) in Europe; my tailor is no less a genius;
and I lately raised the salary of my property-man.
This will give you .some idea of the capabilities of
the Surrey Theatre. However, in the hurry of
" getting up " we have forgotten one property —
everything is well with us but our " Bottom," and he
wants a head. As it is too late to manufacture —
not but that my property-man is the cleverest in the
world (except the property-man of Covent Garden)
— can_)w/ lend me an ass's head; and believe me,
my dear Charles, yours ever truly, Rorert William
Elliston. P.S. — I had forgotten to acknowledge
the return of the Black-Eyed Susan score and coats.
You were most welcome to them.'

"The letter was dispatched to Covent Garden
Theatre, and in a brief time the bearer returned
with the following answer : — ' Mv dear Roisert, —

It is with the most acute pain that I am compelled
to refuse your trifling request. You are aware, mv
dear sir, of the unfortunate situation of Covent
Garden Theatre ; it being at the present moment,
with all the " dresses, scenery, and decorations,'
in the Court of Chancery, I cannot exercise that
power which my friendship would dictate. I have
spoken to Hartley, and he agrees with me (indeed,
he always does) that I cannot lend you an ass's
head — he is an authority on such a subject — without
risking a reprimand from the Lord High Chancellor.
Trusting to your generosity and to your liberal con-
struction of my refusal, and hoping that it will in
no way interrupt that mutually cordial friendship
that has ever subsisted between us, believe me,
ever yours, Charles Kemble. P.S. — When I next
see you advertised for " Rover," I intend to leave
myself out of the bill, and come and see it.'

" Of course this letter did not remain long un-
answered. Ben was again in requisition, and the
following was the result of his labours : —

" ' Dear Charles, — I regret the situation of
Covent Garden Theatre ; I also, for your sake,
deeply regret that the law does not permit you to
send me the " property" in question. I knew that
law alone could prevent you ; for were it not for
the vigilance of equity, such is my opinion of
the management of Covent Garden, that I am
convinced, if left to the dictates of its own judg-
ment, it would be enabled to spare asses' heads,
not to the Surrey alone, but to eveiy theatre in
Christendom. Yours ever truly, Robert William
Elliston. RS. — My wardrobe-keeper informs me
that there are no less than seven buttons missing
from the captains' coats. However, I have ordered
their places to be instantaneously filled by others.'

" We entreat our readers not to receive the
above as a squib of invention. We will not pledge
ourselves that the letters are vfrliaiini from the
originals ; but the loan of the Surrey music and
coats to Covent Garden, with the refusal of Covent
Garden's ass's head to the Surrey, is ' true as holy
writ' "

At the time when Elliston was lessee of the Surrey
and the Olympic Theatres, about 1833, the actors,
who were common to both houses, had to hurry from
St. George's Fields over Blackfriars Bridge to Wych
Street, and occasionally back again also, the same
evening. Sometimes the " legitimate drama " was
performed here in a curious fashion. The law
allowed only musical performances at the minor
theatres : so a pianoforte tinkled, or a clarionet
moaned, a dismal accom])animcnt to the speeches
of Macbeth or Othello. The fact is that, as Dr. \
Doran tells us in the ejiilogue to " His Majesty's

Blackfriars Road.]

A "THEATRICAL BARRACKS."

371

Servants, " the powers of the hcenser (the Lord
Chamberlain) did not extend to St. George's Fields,
where political plays, forbidden on the Middlesex
side of the river, were attractive merely because
they were forbidden." Considerable excellence
has generally been shown in the scenery at this
theatre, which appeals through tlie eye to the " sen-
sations " of the lower classes ; and M. Esquiros,
in his " English at Home," tells us that Danby, as
scene-painter, produced at the Surrey some of the
chastest effects ever witnessed on an English
stage.

After the death of Elliston, the lesseeship was
held in succession by Davidge, Osbaldiston, Cres-
wick, and other individuals of dramatic note ; but
it never rose far above mediocrity. The fabric was
burnt down a second time in January, 1865, but
rebuilt and re-opened in the course of the same
year, great additions and improvements having been
made in its interior arrangements.

The change in the name of this theatre, after it
ceased to be used for equestrian performances, is
thus mentioned in the " Rejected Addresses : " —

" And burnt the Royal Circus in a hurry :
'Twas called the Circus then, but now the Surrey."

James Smith, in a note in the " Rejected Ad-
dresses," writes : — " The authors happened to be at
the Royal Circus when 'God save the King' was
called for, accompanied by a cry of ' Stand up ! '
and 'Hats off!' An inebriated naval lieutenant
perceiving a gentleman in an adjoining box slow
to obey the call, struck his hat off with his stick,
exclaiming, 'Take off your hat, sir.' The other thus
assailed proved to be, unluckily for the lieutenant.
Lord Camelford, the celebrated bruiser and duellist.
A set-to in the lobby was the consequence, where
his lordship quickly proved victorious."

The exterior of the old theatre was plain but neat,
and the approaches very convenient. The audi-
torium, which was nearly square in form, was exceed-
ingly spacious. The upper part of the proscenium
was supported by two gilt, fluted composite columns
on each side, with intervening stage-doors and
boxes. The pit would seat about 900 persons.
The general ornamentation of the boxes, &c., was
white and gold. The gallery, as customary in the
minor theatres, was remarkably spacious, and would
hold above 1,000 persons. It descended to a level
with the side boxes in the centre, but from its
jjrincipal elevation it was continued along both
sides over them. The ceiling sprang from the
four extremities of the front and of the side
galleries. The centre was painted in imitation of
a sky, with genii on the verge and in the angles.

A handsome chandelier depended from the centre,
besides smaller ones suspended from brackets ovei
the stage-doors, which were continued round the
boxes.

The present theatre, which, as we have stated
above, was built in 1865, is a great improvement
upon the old building in every respect. It is con-
siderably larger, and its construction cost ^38,000 ;
the machinery, with the new appliances insisted on
by the Lord Chamberlain for the security of life
from fire, cost nearly ^^2,000. Like most of the
minor theatres in London, the Surrey has of late
years been occasionally used on Sundays for reli-
gious " revival " services, thereby reconciling to
some extent the old enmities between the pulpit
and the stage.

The fact of the Surrey Theatre having been at
one time used for the exhibition of feats of horse-
manship is kept in remembrance by the sign of a
tavern which adjoins it, called " The Equestrian."

The actors of the transpontine theatres of half
a century ago very naturally had their habitations
almost invariably on the south side of the Thames.
Elliston himself lived in Great Surrey Street (now
Blackfriars Road) ; Osbaldiston in Gray's Walk,
Lambeth; Davidge, of the Coburg, afterwards
manager of the Surrey, lived in Charlotte Terrace,
near the New Cut. St. George's Circus, at the south
end of Blackfriars Road, was so thickly peopled by
second-rate actors belonging to the Surrey and the
Coburg, that it was called the Theatrical Barracks.
Hercules Buildings, in the Westminster Bridge
Road, had then, and for twenty years afterwards,
a theatrical or musical family residing in every
house. Stangate, at the back of "Astley's," was
another favourite resort for the sons and daughters
of Thespis ; and the at/ de sac of Mount's Place,
Lambeth, where EUar, the famous harlequin, lived
and died, was also in great repute as a residence
for the pantomimic and equestrian fraternity.

A house " somewhere beyond the obelisk," but
not capable of identification now, was the scene
of a trifling event in the early life of Charles
Dickens, which he records with some minuteness
in the autobiographical reminiscences preserved by
Mr. J. Forster in his published "Life!" When his
father had to pass through the insolvent Court of
the Marshalsea, it was necessary to prove that
the apparel and personal matters retained were
not above ^20 in value. Charles, we suppose,
must have been regarded by the law as part and
parcel of his father, for he had to appear before
an official at this house in his best holiday clothes.
" I recollect his coming out to view me with his
mouth full and a strong smell of beer upon him,

1. The Uld Tlicatrc, i86j.

lliK SUKRI.Y THKATKE.
a. Interior of New Theatre, 1865. 3- '■'"'"'' "' ''"^ "'^ I'li""---'. '865-

Blackfriars Road.]

SOUTH LONDON TRAMWAYS.

373

and saying, good-naturedly, ' That will do,' and
'All right.'" He adds: "Certainly the hardest
creditor would not have been disposed (even if
legally entitled) to avail himself of my poor white
hat, my little jacket, and my corduroy trousers.
But I had in my pocket an old silver watch, given
me by my grandmother before the blacking days,
and I had entertained my doubts, as I went along,
whether that valuable possession might not bring

means of a thorough education. Professor Huxley
long acted as principal of the college. Among
the work carried on here were technical classes for
carpenters and bricklayers, elementary classes in
chemistry and in mathematics, and a Civil Service
class.

A few doors farther northward used to be the
ofifices of the South London Tramway Company,
which was founded in 1870 to supply cheap and

ROWLAND hill's CHAPEL IN 1814.

me above the twenty pounds' standard. So I was
greatly relieved, and made him a low bow of
acknowledgment as I went out."

Between the Surrey Theatre and the Peabody
Buildings, which, as we have already stated, stand
on the site formerly occupied by the Magdalen
Hospital, is the Temperance Hall, a neat brick-
built Gothic structure, one of several others erected
by the London Temperance Halls' Company. It
was built in 1875, and is used for concerts, lectures,
temperance meetings, and so forth.

Further nortliwards, between Webber Street and
Great Charlotte Street, was a house. No. 91, used
as the Working Men's College. It was opened
In 1868, for the purpose of giving to the working
men of South London, and their families, the
272

rapid communication by street cars, on the American
principle. The company have laid down more than
twenty miles of street-rails along the high roads
connecting Vauxhall, Westminster, Blackfriars, and
London Bridges with Greenwich, Deptford, Cam-
berwell, Brixton, Kennington, and Clapham. The
cars constantly in use are about 86, employing
some 785 horses, and over 300 men. They carry
in a year more than 16,000,000 passengers.

Nearly opposite the above-mentioned offices is
the modern Mission College of St. Alphege, named
after the saint with whose murder by the Danes
the reader has been already made acquainted in our
account of Greenwich.*

* See anUf p. 1^4.

374

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

fBlackfriars Road.

' Nelson Square, close by. on the east side of
Blackfriars Road, was doubtless built at the com-
mencement of the century, when the great naval
hero was in the height of his glory, and named
in honour of him. Beyond a tavern, bearing the
sign of the " Lord Nelson," the square is merely
occupied by small tradesmen and as lodging-
houses, and therefore is one of those fortunate
places which has little or no history attached to it.

The " Dog's Head in the Pot " is mentioned
as an old London sign in a curious tract, printed
by Wynkyn de Worde, called " Cocke Lorelle's
Bote." A sign of this description is still to be
seen in the Blackfriars Road, over the door of a
furnishing ironmonger's shop, at the corner of
Little Charlotte Street, close by Nelson Square.

The building formerly known as Surrey Chapel,
which stands on the east of the road, at the corner
of Charlotte Street, about 500 yards from Blackfriars
Bridge, is an ugly octagonal structure with no pre-
tensions to any definite style of architecture. It
was often called " Rowland Hill's Chapel," after
its former minister, the Rev. Rowland Hill, who,
though the son of a Shropshire baronet and a
deacon of the Established Church, became a
Dissenter from conviction, and was for half a
century the able and eloquent minister of a con-
gregation of Calvinistic Methodists who worshipped
here. He was eloquent, witty, and warm-hearted,
and was for many years a power in the religious
world, being on the best of terms with the more
" Evangelical " portion of the national clergy.
His wit was almost as ready as that of Douglas
Jerrold or Theodore Hook. Once when preachmg
near the docks at Wapping, he said, " I am come
to preach to great, to notorious, yes, to Wapping
sinners ! " Another day, observing a number of
persons coming into his chapel, not so much to
hear his sermon as to escape the rain, he declared
that though he had known of persons making
religion a cloak, he had never heard of it being
made an umbrella before ! His congregation were
much attached to him personally, and always sub-
scribed liberally in answer to his appeals to their
purses ; and he, therefore, compared them to a
good cow, which gives the more the more that
she is milked ! His wife was too fond of dress for
a minister's wife ; and it is said that within these
walls he would often preach at her by name,
saying, " Here comes my wife, with a whole ward-
robe on her head and back;" hut this story is
apocryphal. At all events, lie always denied its
truth, declaring that though he was always outspoken
in denouncing vanity and frivolity, he was not a
bear, but a Christian and a gentleman !

In his youth Rowland was noted for that re-
dundant flow of spirits which never failed him even
to his latest years. He was, likewise, even in his
younger days, celebrated for wit and humour, an
instance of which occurred at Eton, on the occasion
of a discussion among the scholars as to the power
of the letter H. Some contended that it had the
full power of a letter, while others thought it a
mere aspirate, and that it might be omitted alto-
gether without any disadvantage to our language.
Rowland earnestly contended for its continuance,
adding, " To me the letter H is a most invaluable
one, for if it be taken away, I shall be /// all the
days of my life." With the intention of qualifying
himself for one of the livings in the gift of his
family, he entered St. John's College, Cambridge,
where, from his serious behaviour and somewhat
unusual zeal in visiting the sick and engaging in
out-door preaching, he became the subject of much
obloquy. When the time came for taking orders,
he found that his former " irregular " conduct
proved an insuperable difficulty. His brother
Richard was the only member of his family who
approved of his eccentric conduct at this period.
For several years after leaving college he had been
extensively occupied in out-door preaching, both
in the country and in the metropolis. The Church
of England pulpits were, of course, not then open
to him ; but among the Dissenters no such obstacle
existed. It was at one time generally believed
that he would be tiie successor of Whitefield at
Tottenham Court Road Chapel. During four
years he experienced six refusals from several
prelates; but in 1773 the Bishop of Bath and
Wells consented to admit him to deacon's orders.
His first curacy was Kingston, near Taunton. The
Bishop of Carlisle had promised to ordain him a
priest, but was commanded by the Archbishop of
York not to admit him to a higher grade in the
Church, on account of his irregularity. This refusal
caused Rowland to remark that he " ran off with
only one ecclesiastical boot on." After leaving his
curacy, he returned to his former course of field-
preaching, and during the next ten years he visited
various parts of England, Wales, and Ireland,
London not excepted. " As we are commanded,"
he once remarked, " to preach the Gospel to every
creature, even to the ends of the world, I always
conceived that in preaching through England,
Scotland, Ireland, and \\'alcs, / stuck close to viy
parish" In later life nothing gave him greater
[ilcasure than the occasional offer of a Church of
I'jigland pulpit, for to the close of his life, although
fraternising extensively with the Dissenters, he
considered himself a clergyman of the Established

Blackiriars Road 1

ROWLAND HILL'S CHAPEL.

Church. The time at length came when his
somewhat erratic career was to end in a more
settled ministry in the metropolis, and where his
former popularity would be still further extended.

Being in London during the riots of 1780, Row-
land Hill took advantage of the opportunity af-
forded him of addressing the large multitudes then
assembled in St. George's Fields, sometimes preach-
ing to as many as 20,000 persons. Up to this
period of his Jife, he had exercised his ministry
irregularly, preaching in Church of England pulpits
when practicable, but more frequently in Dissenting
chapels or in the open air. He had, it is said, for
some time felt the desirability of a settled ministry,
and his wish was soon afterwards carried into effect
by some liberal-minded persons coming forward
with subscriptions towards the erection of a large
chapel in the south of London. The spot selected
was in the new road then recently opened from
Blackfriars Bridge to the Obelisk. Among the
contributors to the proposed chapel were Lord
George Gordon, who gave a donation of ^50,
Lady Huntingdon, and others. The first stone
was laid early in 1782, and the building, which cost
about ^5,000, was opened in June, 1783. From
that time till his death, in 1833, Mr. Hill was the
minister of the chapel, residing in the adjoining
parsonage-house for the long period of fifty years.

When first erected, the chapel stood almost
among fields, but in the course of a few years the
locality on every side became thickly populated.
With regard to the shape of the chapel, Mr. Hill
is stated to have once remarked that he liked a
round building, for it prevented the devil hiding
in any of the corners. Its close proximity to the
public road, and the excellence of the singing, for
which it was long celebrated, induced many passers-
by to enter the chapel. Many wealthy persons
were regular attendants ; and among the occasional
visitors were Dean Milner, ^Villiam Wilberforce,
Ambrose Serle, and the Duke of Kent. Sheridan
once said, " I go to hear Rowland Hill, because
his ideas come red-hot from the heart." Dean
Milner once told him, " Mr. Hill, Mr. Hill ! I felt
to-day — 'tis this slap-dash preaching, say what they
will, that does all the good ; " and the Duke of
Kent, in Mr. Hill's parlour, mentioned how much
he was struck by the service, especially the singing.

Sir Richard Hill, the brother of Rowland, was
one of the first trustees, and a frequent attendant.
Although in every particular it was essentially a
Dissenting chapel, the liturgical service of the
Church of England was regularly used, while the
most celebrated preachers of all denominations
have occupied the pulpit. For the first few years

375

after the erection of the chapel, Mr. Hill availed
himself of the occasional services of clergymen of
the Establishment, among whom were the Revs.
John Venn and Thomas Scott, and also some
eminent Dissenting ministers. But, in 1803, the
publication of a satirical pamphlet directed against
the Established clergy, entitled "Spiritual Cha-
racteristics," having special reference to an Act
then recently passed in Parliament, with the object
of enforcing the residence of some of the bene-
ficed clergy, and generally believed to have been
written by Mr. Hill, resulted in the withdrawal of
the services of his clerical friends. It was his
usual custom to spend the summer of each year in
itinerant preaching in various parts of England
and Wales, and during these absences from Lon-
don his pulpit was regularly supplied by eminent
Dissenting ministers. He found time to visit
Scotland more than once. The popularity of
several of his substitutes was so great that the
spacious chapel, which had sittings for about 2,000
persons, was sometimes more crowded than when
Rowland Hill was the ofiiciating minister. Very
large sums have been annually raised for the
various charitable institutions and religious so-
cieties connected with Surrey Chapel. The organ,
which in its day was considered a powerful instru-
ment, was for many years played by Mr. Jacobs,
whose musical ear was so fine that he was selected
by Haydn to tune his pianoforte. The singing at
Surrey Chapel was long a special feature ; and Mr.
Hill IS said to have once remarked that he "did not
see why the devil should have all the good tunes,"
for in his lifetime and some years afterwards it was
a common occurrence to hear certain hymns, com-
posed by Rowland Hill, sung to the tunes of "Rule,
Britannia," or the " National Anthem."

The poet Southey, who paid a visit to Surrey
Chapel in 1823, when Rowland Hill was in his
seventy-ninth year, gives in one of his letters the
following particulars : —

" Rowland Hill's pulpit is raised very high ;
and before it, at about half the height, is the
reader's desk on his right, and the clerk's on his
left — the clerk being a very grand personage, vi'ith
a sonorous voice. The singing was so general and
so good, that I joined in it. During the singing,
after Rowland had made his prayer before the
sermon, we were beckoned from our humble
places by a gentleman in one of the pews. He
was very civil ; and by finding out the li}'mns for
me, and presenting me with the book, enabled
me to sing, which I did to admiration. Rowland,
a fine, tall old man, with strong features, very like
his portrait, began by reading three verses for his

376

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Blackfriais Road.

text, stooping to the book in a very peculiar
manner. Having done this, he stood up erect, and
said, 'Why, the text is a sermon, and a very weighty
one too.' I could not always follow his delivery,
the loss of his teeth rendering his words sometimes
indistinct, and the more so because his pronuncia-
tion is peculiar, generally giving e the sound of
ai, like the French. His manner was animated
and striking, sometimes impressive and dignified,
always remarkable : and so powerful a voice I
have rarely or ever heard. Sometimes he took oft'
his spectacles, frequently stooped down to read a
text, and on these occasions he seemed to double
his body, so high did he stand. He told one or
two familiar stories, and used some odd expressions,
such as, 'A murrain on those who preach that
when we are sanctified we do not grow in grace ! '
And again, ' I had almost said I had rather see
the devil in the pulpit than an Antinomian ! ' The
purport of his sermon was good ; nothing fanatical,
nothing enthusiastic ; and the Calvinism it ex-
pressed was so qualified as to be harmless. The
manner, that of a performer, as great in his line
as Kean or Kemble : and the manner it is which
has attracted so large a congregation about him,
all of the better order of persons in business."

Mr. Hill sometimes caused his chapel to take
a prominent part on public occasions, even in
politics. For instance, when the peace of Amiens
took place in 1802, he exliibited in front of his
chapel an appropriate transparency, with the quaint
motto, " May the new-born peace be as old as Me-
thuselah ! " When, a few months later, the peace
was at an end, and the invasion of this country
was tiireatened by Napoleon, volunteer companies
were raised in every district. Mr. Hill at once
invited the volunteers in and around the metropolis
to come to his chapel to hear a sermon, on the
afternoon of tlie 3rd of December, 1803, on which
occasion the building was thronged in every part.
Of this service he afterwards remarked, speaking
of the volunteers, " I acknowledge that your very
respectable appearance, your becoming deportment
while in the house of God, and especially the
truly serious and animated manner in which you
all stood up to sing the high praises of our God,
filled me witli solemn suri)rise, and exliibited before
me one of the most affecting scenes I ever beheld."
Mr. Hill composed a hymn specially for the occa-
sion, which was sung to the tune of the " National
Anthem ;" and another commencing thus —
" When Jesus first, at Heaven's command,
Descended from liis azure throne,"

which was sung to the air of " Rule, llrilannia."
Alter the battle of Waterloo, in which five of his

nephews were engaged, a neat transparency, which
attracted some attention, was placed in front of
the chapel. At the head of it two hands held,
on a scroll, the words, " The tyrant is fallen ! "
Under this came a quotation from Obadiah 3, 4 ;
to which was added, " Be wise now, therefore, O
ye kings ; be instructed, ye judges of the earth."
The subject of the painting was the sun setting
on the sea, exhibiting on the shore, to the left, a
lion crouching at the foot of a fortress near the
trophies of war ; and to the right, a lamb lying by
the implements of agriculture, with a village church
and a cottage before it.

Rowland Hill's labours as a philanthropist are
not so generally known as his fame as a preacher.
During one of his summer visits to Wotton-under-
Edge, Gloucestershire, where he had erected a
small chapel, he became acquainted with Dr.
Jenner, who lived in the vicinity of that village.
He soon saw the advantages resulting from vac-
cination, and henceforward very earnestly recom-
mended the practice of inoculation, publishing,
in 1806, a pamphlet on the subject, in which he
defended the new proposal from the aspersions of
some of its opponents. " This," said he, " is the
very thing for me ; " and wherever he went to
preach on his country excursions, he frequently
announced after his sermon, " I am ready to
vaccinate to-morrow morning as many children
as you choose ; and if you wish them to escape
that horrid disease, the small-pox, you will bHng
them." One of the most effective vaccine boards
in London was established at Surrey Chapel. At
different places he instructed suitable persons in
the use of the lancet for this purpose. It has been
stated that in a few years the numbers inoculated
by him amounted to more than 10,000. It may
be further added that the first Sunday School in
London was established in Mr. Hill's chapel.*

His untiring exertions on behalf of religious
liberty ought not to be forgotten. In the earlier
part of the jjrcsent century a most determined effort
was made to subject Dissenting chapels to parochial
assessments, or the payment of poor's rates, and
the experiment was first tried with Surrey Chapel,
on account of its nondescript character. Mr. Hill
resisted the attempt, because he regarded it as an
invasion of the Toleration Act, which George III.,
in his first speech from the throne, had pledged
himself to maintain inviolable. Mr. Hill and his
friends were summoned to attend at the Guildford
sessions, and although they gained a temporary
success, they were compelled to appear on five

* Sc« iinU\ p. 71.

Blackfriars Road.]

ECCENTRICITIES OF ROWLAND HILL.

377

subsequent occasions, on each of which the
parochial authorities were unsuccessful. The
subject was then taken up by the Dissenters gene-
rally, Mr. Hill meanwhile publishing a pamphlet
on the subject, which soon passed through three
editions. His exertions were at last crowned with
success by the passing of the ReHgious WorFl.ip
Act, which repealed certain Acts relating to religious
worship and assemblies, and henceforward set the
question for ever at rest. During these inquiries
concerning the taxation of Surrey Chapel, it was
elicited in evidence that instead of the revenues
of the chapel going to Rowland Hill, as was by
some persons believed, the chapel was vested in
the hands of trustees, and after payment of all
expenses incident to public worship, nothing but
a very small surplus remained. Some person
once said of him, " Rowland Hill must get a
good annual sum by his chapels and his travel-
ling"; and on this coming to his ears, he re-
marked, "Well, let anyone pay my travelling
expenses for one year, and he shall have all my
gains, I promise him." He did not relax his
labours even in old age, for in one week, when
past seventy-one, he travelled a hundred miles in
a mountainous part of Wales, and preached twenty-
one sermons. During his long ministry of sixty-six
years he preached at least 23,000 sermons, many
of which were delivered in the open air, being an
average of 350 every year.

In the "Picture of London" for 1802 the name
of Mr. Rowland Hill is placed at the head of the
popular preachers among the " Calvinistic Metho-
dists." He is described as " remarkable for a very
vehement kind of eloquence, and on all subjects
having the gift of a ready utterance ; he is fol-
lowed," adds the writer, " by the most crowded
audiences, chiefly composed of the lower classes of

society Many of the most popular

preachers among the Methodists are ordained
ministers of the Established Church, and have no
objection to administer the ordinances of religion
either in the church, the chapel, the meeting-house,
or the open air." As a preacher, he long held a
position in the religious world which has never
been paralleled, e.xcept, perhaps, by Robert Hall.
Even Bishop Blomfield declared that Mr. Hill was
the best preacher that he had ever heard. On one
occasion Bishop Maltby accompanied Dr. Blom-
field to the Surrey Chapel. The two bishops were
great Greek scholars, and as the preacher floun-
dered in some allusion to the original Greek of liis
text, the two prelates sat and smiled to each other,
enjoying the fun.

Mr. J. T. Smith, in his " Book for a Rainy Day,"

tells an amusing anecdote concerning Rowland
Hill, which wc maybe pardoned for quoting. Mr.
Smith narrates how that one Sunday morning, in
his younger days, he was passing Surrey Chapel on
his way to Camberwell, when the " swelling pipes"
of the organ had such an attraction that he was
induced to go inside. He then proceeds : — " No
sooner was the sermon over and the blessing
bestowed, than Rowland electrified his hearers
by vociferating, ' Door-keepers, shut the doors ! '
Slam went one door ; bounce went another ; bang
went a third ; at last, all being anxiously silent as
the most importantly unexpected scenes of Sir
Walter Scott could make them, the pastor, with a
slow and dulcet emphasis, thus addressed his con-
gregation : — ' My dearly beloved, I speak it to my
shame, that this sermon was to have been a charity
sermon, and if you will only look down into the
green pew at those — let me see — three and three
are six, and one makes seven, young men with red
morocco prayer-books in tlieir hands, poor souls I
they were backsliders, for they went on the Ser-
pentine River, and otlier far distant waters, on a
Sabbath ; they were, however, as you see, all
saved from a watery grave. I need not tell ye that
my exertions were to have been for the benefit of
that benevolent institution, the Humane Society.
What ! I see some of ye already up to be gone ;
fie ! fie ! fie ! — never heed your dinners ; don't be
Calibans, nor mind your pockets. I know that
some of ye are now attending to the devil's whis-
pers. I say, listen to me ! take my advice, give
shillings instead of sixpences ; and those who in-
tended to give shillings, display half-crowns, in
order not only to thwart the foul fiend's mis-
chievousness, but to get your pastor out of this
scrape ; and if you do, I trust Satan will never put
his foot within this circle again. Hark ye ! I have
hit upon it ; ye shall leave us directly. The Bank
Directors, you must know, have called in the
dollars ; now, if any of you happen to be encum-
bered with a stale dollar or two, jingle the Spanish
in our dishes ; we'll take them, they'll pass current
here. Stay, my friends, a moment more. I am
to dine with the Humane Society on Tuesday next,
and it would shock me beyond expression to see
the strings of the Surrey Chapel bag dangle down
its sides like the tags upon Lady Huntingdon's
servants' shoulders. Now, mind what I say, upon
this occasion I wish for a bumper as strenuously
as Master Hugh Peters did when he recommended
Inis congregation in Broadway Chapel to take a
second glass.' " Mr. Smith adds, as a foot-note,
that it is recorded of Hugh Peters, a celebrated
preacher during the usurpation of Ohver Cromwell,

378

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Blackfriars Road.

that when he found the sand of his hour-glass had
descended, he turned it, saying, " Come, I know
you to be jolly dogs, we'll take t'other glass."

Mr. Sidney, one of Rowland Hill's biographers,
relates an amusing instance of his ready wit. It
seems he was accustomed, when in the desk, to
read any request for prayer that might be sent in.
One day he thus commenced — " ' The prayers of
this congregation are desired for ' — well, I suppose

Rowland Hill : — As he was entering Surrey Chapel,
one Sunday morning, Mr. Hill passed two lads, one
of whom said to his companion, " Let's go and
hear Rowland Hill, and have some fun." The old
gentleman went inside the porch, just before the
boys, and gave directions to the verger to put them
in a certain pew, in front of the pulpit, and fasten
the door. This was done. After the prayers
were finished, Mr. Hill rose and gave out his text

'-Vh^ ' - ft/

J^^l' i^Ui

I must finish what I have begun — ' the Rev.
Rowland Hill, that he will not go riding about in
his carriage on Sundays.' " Not in the least dis-
concerted, Mr. Hill looked up, and gravely said,
"If the writer of this piece of folly and impertinence
is in the congregation, and will go into the vestry
after service, and let me put a saddle on his back,
I will ride him home, instead of going in my
carriage." He then went on with the service as if
nothing unusual had happened. Being reminded
of this circumstance many years afterwards by Mr.
Sidney, he said it was quite true. " Vou know I
could not call him a donkey in plain terms."

From the Rev. T. W. Aveling's " Memoirs of
the Clayton Family " we quote two anecdotes of

— " The wicked shall be turned into hell, and all
the nations that forget God" (Ps. ix. 17); and
looking ftill into the faces of the two youths, wlio
sat immediately before him, he said, significant!)',
" And there's fun for you." The congregation,
somewhat familiar with the old man's oddities, felt
sure that he had a special reason for this strange
j remark ; and when, each time he repeated the text,
t this singular commentary immediately followed, all
looked to .see in what direction his glance was
turned, and the two lads soon found themselves
I " the observed of all observers." The tremor and
I alarm witli which they heard the words that re-
minded them of their design on coming that
morning to Surrey Chapel were not diminished

Blackfriars Road.]

MR. HILL AND THE DRAYMAN.

379

when they saw every eye fixed upon them, whicli-
ever way they looked ; and conscience, " which
doth make cowards of us all," wrought so power-
fully— in conjunction with Mr. Hill's illustrations
of his text — that one of them fainted away, and had
to be carried out by his companion. The latter

unwelcome re]jroof. One day, going down the
New Cut, opposite his chapel, he heard a brewer's
drayman, who was lowering some barrels, swearing
most fearfully. Rowland Hill rebuked him very
solemnly, and said, " Ah, my man ! I shall appear
one day as a witness against you." " Very hkely,"

IMhKIOK OF IHi. RUTLNDA, IjLACls t KI \ki RO\D, IN lb20.

remained comparatively unaffected, except with a
temporary feeling of shame. The youth who
fainted returned the next Sunday to the chapel;
in the course of time he became an Independent
minister ; and before he died was chairman of the
Congregational Union. The other grew up care-
less and abandoned, and became an outcast from
country and friends.

Another anecdote has been related of Mr. Hill,
which shows the readiness and wit with which
London working men can sometimes retort an

! rejoined the offender ; " the biggest rogues always
turn king's evidence ! " This unwelcome retort
made Mr. Hill resolve to be cautious in future,
when he reproved such men again, hms.' he reproved
them.

Rowland Hill's biographers inform us that a
generous benevolence was a distinguishing trait ol
his character, and that he seemed to possess the
power of inspiring his flock with a similar spirit.
On two occasions on which collections were made
in the churches and chapels throughout the king-

38o

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

(.Blackfriars Road.

dom (the Patriotic Fund at Lloyd's, and the sub-
scription for the relief of the German suft'erers), the
collections at Surrey Chapel are recorded to have
been the largest raised at any one place. The sum an-
nually raised for charitable and religious institutions
at Surrey Chapel varied from _;j^2,ooo to ^^3,000.

Rowland Hill's death took place in April, 1833,
in the eighty-ninth year of his age. Up to the last
fortnight of his life he was able to preach a sermon
of nearly an hour's duration once every Sunday.
He was buried, at his own request, beneath the
pulpit of Surrey Chapel. The funeral service was
attended by a very large congregation, his nephew,
the head of his family. Lord Hill, then Commander-
in-Chief of the army, being the chief mourner.
A tablet and bust in his memory, placed in the
gallery behind the pulpit, have, with the body, been
removed to Christ Church, Westminster Bridge
Road (see ante). His successor in the ministry
of Surrey Chapel was James Sherman, on whose
resignation, in the year 1854, the pulpit became
occupied by the Rev. Newman Hall.

Rowland Hill, when advanced in life, became
possessed of some fortune ; and accordingly, at his
decease, he left the large sum of ^^i 1,000 to the
Village Itinerancy, together with sundry donations
to different religious institutions. Besides these
bequests, he left a sum of money for the perpetua-
tion of Surrey Chapel at the expiration of the lease ;
but this gift having subsequently been declared
informal, as coming under the Statute of Mortmain,
the bequest reverted to Hackney College, and in
1859 the congregation set themselves zealously to
work to subscribe a sum equal to that which they
had lost (;^S,ooo). As they were unable to obtain
a renewal of the lease, a new church was erected in
the Westminster Bridge Road, on the site formerly
occupied by the Female Orphan Asylum, as we
have already stated ; * hither the congregation
migrated in 1876. Surrey Chapel was afterwards
occupied by the Primitive Methodists (now located
in New Surrey Chapel, in the same road), and since
1881 it has been used as a warehouse for machinery.

Surrey Chapel became " the centre of a system
of benevolent societies designed to reach the
various classes of the community"; and in 1812
Rowland Hill established some almshouses in the
adjacent Gravel Lane, in a thoroughfare now known
as Hill Street, on a spot ominously enough named
Hangman's Acre, where twenty-four jjoor widows
found a home. Mr. Charleswortli, in his " Life of
Rowland Hill," gives this instance of the preacher's
shrewdness and humour : — " An aged female wished

Sec ante, pp. 350^ 369.

to qualify herself for admission to an almshouse by
becoming a member of the church. ' So you wish
to join the church ? ' — ' If you please, sir.' ' Wliere
have you been accustomed to hear the Gospel?' —
' At your blessed chapel, sir.' ' Oh ! indeed ; at my
blessed chapel ; dear me ! And how long have you
attended with us ? ' — ' For several years.' ' Do you
think you have got any good by attending the
chapel ? ' — ' Oh ! yes, sir. I have had many blessed
seasons.' ' Indeed ! Under whose ministry do
you think you were led to feel yourself to be a
sinner ? ' — ' Under your blessed xsxvMsXxy.' ' Indeed !
And do you think your heart is pretty good ? ' —
'Oh, no! sir; it is a very bad one.' 'What! and
do you come here with your bad heart, and wish
to join the church ?' — ' Oh, sir ! I mean that my
heart is not worse than others ; it is pretty gooil
on the whole ! ' ' Indeed ! that's more than I can
say; I'm sure mine's bad enough. Well, have
you heard that we are going to build some blessed
almshouses?' — 'Yes, sir, I have.' 'Should you
like to have one of them ? ' Dropping a very low
curtsey, she replied, ' Yes, sir, if you please.' ' I
thought so. You may go about your business, my
friend ; you won't do for us.' The severity of this
treatment was doubtless justified by Mr. Hill's
knowledge of the applicant, and the suspicion o(
her ulterior object."

On the west side of Blackfriars Road, about
midway between Great Charlotte Street and the
bridge, is Christ Church, which dates its erection
from the middle of the last century. The parish
of Christ Church was taken out of that of St.
Saviour, Southwark, and was originally part of the
district called the Liberty of Paris Garden. This
spot, as we have shown in a previous chapter,f was
one of the ancient places of amusement of the
metropolis ; and it seems to have been much
frequented on Sundays for bear-baiting, a favourite
sport in the time of Queen Elizabeth. Paris
Garden, according to the ancient maps, extended
from the west end of Banksidc and the Liberty
of the Clink towards what is now the southern
extremity of Blackfriars Bridge. On the east it
appears bounded by a mill-stream and mill-pond,
and a road marked as leading to Copt Hall ; there
was also a mill, with gates, between the pond and
the Thames. There is, or used to be, a ditch or
dyke running across Great Surrey Street ; but for
some years it has been covered or built upon. All
buildings thereon arc subject to a ground-rent,
payable to " the steward of the manor of Olil Paris
Garden, and are collected half-yearly. | In the

t See anti, p. 53.

X Notes and Qutrus, 1854.

Blarkfriars Road.]

CHRIST CHURCH.

381

centre of the Liberty stood a cross, from which a
narrow thoroughfare, marked " Olde Parris Lane,"
leads down to the river. On the south-east, a
winding thoroughfare, with water on both sides,
leads to St. George's Fields ; and on the south-west
another to the " Manner (su) House." There are
small rows of cottages along parts of these roads.

In early times very few houses stood on this
marshy ground ; but we have an account of a
mansion or manor-house built upon a somewhat
elevated part of the marsh, near the river, by one
Robert of Paris, in the reign of Richard II. ; the
locality is still indicated by the name of Upper
Ground Street. " It is said," writes the author of
" London in the Olden Time," published in 1855,
"that the king commanded the butchers of Lon-
don to purchase this estate by the river-side for
the purpose of making it a receptacle for garbage
discharged from the city slaughter-houses, so that
the inhabitants might not be annoyed therewith.
This plot of ground, called Paris Garden^ — for so it
has always been designated — -is, or was, surrounded
by the Thames and its waters, which flow through
ditches at high tides."

It appears that subsequently this estate of Robert
of Paris came into the possession of the prior and
monks of Bermondsey Abbey ; but on the dissolu-
tion of the monasteries it was sold, and fell into lay
hands. About one hundred and fifty years after-
wards, in the reign of William and Mary, we find
Paris Garden an inhabited locality, the property
of a gentleman named Marshall, who founded and
endowed here a church, which he named Christ
Church, having obtained an Act of Parliament con-
verting the ancient manor of Paris Garden into a
parish under that name.

The first church was erected at the expense of
Mr. Marshall, and finished in 167 1. The steeple
and spire, which were 125 feet high, were not com-
pleted till 1695. This edifice, in consequence of
the badness of the foundations, soon became so
dilapidated, that in 1737 Mr. Marshall's trustees
applied to Parliament for power to rebuild it, with
the sum of ^2,500, which had accumulated in
their hands from the trust, and obtained an Act for
that purpose. The present structure was accord-
ingly erected. This is situated in a spacious burial-
ground. The plan of the fabric is nearly square ;
and at the west end is a square tower, flanked
by lobbies. The walls are of brick, with stone
dressings. The tower is built partly within and
partly without the wall of the church ; it is in three
storeys : the lower has an arched doorway, with a
circular window over it, and the second and third
storeys each have arched windows. An octagon

turret of wood rises above the parapet in two
stages, the lower forming the plinth to the other ;
in four of the faces are dials, and the whole is
finished with a cupola and vane. The general
appearance of the body of the church is plain and
uninteresting, both externally and internally. The
great east window contains some ornamental
stained glass and a painting of the descending
dove ; in the side lights are the arms of the see of
Winchester, impaled with those of Izaak Walton's
"good Bishop Morley," then bi,shop of that diocese.
The churchyard has lately been laid out as a public
recreation ground.

In Church Street, about the year 1730, Mr.
Charles Hopton founded a row of almshouses for
twenty-six " decayed housekeepers," each of whom
received ^10 per annum and a chaldron of coals.

At a short distance northward of Christ Church,
Stamford Street branches off westwards from Black-
friars Road, and thus forms a connecting link with
that thoroughfare and Waterloo Bridge Road. It
is a good broad street, dating from the beginning
of this century ; and, with York Road westward of
it and Southwark Street to the east, serves as a
direct communication, almost parallel with the
river, from the High Street, Borough, to West-
minster Bridge and Lambeth. On the south side
of Stamford Street is a chapel, built about the year
1824 for the Unitarians. The building, from an
architectural point of view, forms a striking con-
trast with the generality of chapels and meeting-
houses. A portico, of the Grecian Doric order,
occupies the whole front of the edifice, and im-
parts to it a commanding and temple-like aspect.
The wall within this portico is unbroken by any
other aperture than a single door, forming the
entrance to the building. The interior corresponds
with the exterior in simplicity of taste and in the
style of its decoration, which is of that plainness
that it might even satisfy a congregation of
Quakers.

Nearly opposite the above-mentioned chapel, at
the corner of Hatfield Street, is the Hospital for
Diseases of the Skin, an institution which since its
establishment, in 1841, has done a deal of good
in the gratuitous medical treatment of the poor
afflicted with cutaneous diseases. This institution
was originally established in New Bridge Street,
Blackfriars, and nearly 6,000 of the suffering poor
are relieved in the course of the year.

In Duke Street, close by, are the extensive
printing works of the Messrs. Clowes and Sons.
This is one of the largest establishments of the
kind in the kingdom, and from its presses have
issued many of the works of Charles Dickens,

382

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tBlackfriars Road.

Charles Knight, and other eminent men of letters,
as well as the publications of the " Incorporated
Council of Law Reporting for England and Wales,"
numerous military works, and statistical reports for
various Government offices. The firm, in 1840,
undertook the contract for supplying the famous
Mulready envelope. The Mirror stated that they
arranged to supply the public with half a million
a day ; but the design was distasteful to the public,
and the envelope was speedily recalled.

At the corner of Stamford Street and Blackfriars
Road, on the spot now occupied by tlie Central
Bank of London and three or four large houses
adjoining it, stood, till 1874, a row of tenements,
which for many years previously, owing to the
eccentricity of their owner, a Miss Angelina Read,
had been allowed to remain unoccupied. They
had long been windowless, and the dingy rooms
encumbered with dirt and rubbish and overrun
with rats; indeed, such a forlorn and desolate
aspect had they assumed that they became gene-
rally known as "the haunted houses." In the
above year, Miss Read having bequeathed them to
the Consumption Hospital at Erompton, they were
demolished, and some fine buildings have been
erected in their place.

A few doors northwards of Stamford Street, on
the west side of Blackfriars Road, is the building
once occupied by the museum collected by Sir
Ashton Lever, and removed hither from Leicester
Square,* when it became the property of a Mr.
Parkinson. The following is a facsimile of an
advertisement of the exhibition, taken from a
London newspaper of March, 1 790 : —

LEVERIAN MUSEUM,
ALBION STREET,
The Surrey End of Black Friars Bridge.
T^HIS admired Assemblage of the Productions
of Nature and Art, with several curious and valuable
additions, both presented and purchased, continues to be
exhibited eveiy day (Sundays excepted) from Ten to Six.
Admittance Half a Crown each person.
Good Fires in the Rotunda, &c.
Recently added to the Museum, a variety of Specimens
of the most rare and beautiful Birds from GUAYANA, in
SOUTH AMERICA.

Annual Admission Tickets may be had at the Museum,
at One Guinea each.

Part the First of the Catalogue of this Collection may be
had at the following ])laces : — Messrs. White and Son, in
Fleet Street ; Mr. Robson, in New Bond Street, Mr.
IChnsly, in the Strand ; Mr. Sewell, in Comhill ; and at the
Museimi. Price 2s. 6d.

This curious, extensive, and valuable collection

• See Vol. Ill,, p. 16s.

here experienced the most mortifying neglect, till,
in 1806, it was finally dispersed by public auction,
in a sale which lasted forty days. The premises
were subsequently occupied by the Surrey Insti-
tution, which vi'as established in the following year.
Here some gentlemen proposed to form an insti-
tution on the Surrey side of the river, on a plan
similar to that of the Royal Institution in Albe-
marle Street. It was intended to have a series of
lectures, an extensive library and reading-rooms, a
chemical laboratory and philosophical apparatus,
&c. In 1820 this valuable institution was dissolved,
the library, &c., being sold by auction. After
that, the building, which was called the Rotunda,
was occupied for some years as a wine and concert-
room. In September, 1833, it was opened as the
Globe Theatre. Two years previously it had been
appropriated to all kinds of purposes, including
the dissemination of the worst religious and political
opinions, and penny exhibitions of wax-work and
wild beast shows. In 1838 the Rotunda was
again opened as a concert-room ; but the concern
never prospered, and its vicissitudes afterwards are
not worth noting. It was finally closed as a place
of amusement about the year 1855, and the build-
ing is now used for business purposes. To such
base uses do all things come !

At the foot of Blackfriars Bridge formerly stood
a range of buildings, which at one time constituted
part of the Albion Mills. This extensive concern
was set on foot by a company of spirited and
opulent individuals, with the view of counteracting
the impositions but too frequently practised in the
grinding of corn. On the 3rd of March, 1791,
the whole building, with the exception of the corner
wing, occupied as the ' house and offices of the
superintendent, was destroyed by fire, together with
four thousand sacks of flour which it contained.
When these mills were burnt down, Horace \Val-
pole was not ashamed to own that he had literally
never seen or heard of them, though the flakes and
the dust of burning grain were carried as far as
Westminster, Palace Yard, and even to St. James's.
" One may live," writes Walpole, " in a vast capital,
and know no more of three-parts of it than of
Carthage. When I was in Florence I have sur-
prised some Florentines by telling them that
London is built (like their city, where you often
cross the bridges several times in a day) on each
side of the river, and yet that I had never been
but on one side ; for then I had never been in
Southwark." What would 1 loracc Walpole have
said of London, had he lived in the reign of
Victoria ?

The front of tiic mill remained for many years

Lambeth.]

THE SWAN THEATRE.

383

unrepaired, but was subsequently formed into a
row of handsome private habitations. These, in
turn, were demohshed a few years ago, to make
room for the Blackfriars station and goods depot
on the London, Chatham, and Dover Raihvay.

Somewhere near this spot, at no great distance
from the southern end of Blackfriars Bridge, stood
the most westerly of the play-houses on Bankside
— the Swan Theatre. It was a large house, and
flourished only a few years, being suppressed at
the commencement of the civil wars, and soon
afterwards demolished.

Before the building of Blackfriars Bridge, in
1766, there was a ferry at this spot for the con-
veyance of traffic across the river. An idea of the
value of some of the ferries on the Thames may be
formed from the circumstance that on the con-
struction of this bridge the committee of manage-
ment agreed to invest the Waterman's Company
with ^13,650 Consolidated Three per Cent. An-
nuities, to satisfy them for the loss of the Sunday
ferry at Blackfriars, which was proved to have pro-
duced, upon an average for fourteen years, the sum
of ^409,000 annually.

CHAPTER XXIX.

LAMBETH.

* So many gardens, dressed with curious care.
That Thames with royal Tiber may compare.'

-Izaak IValton ; from tJic German.

Parochial Division of Lambeth— The Early History of the Parish — Descent of the Manor — Appearance of Lambeth in the time of Charles U. —
L.'imbeth in the Last Century, as viewed frcm the Adelphi — The Romance of Lambeth — Lady Arabella Stuart a Prisoner here — Morland.
the famous Mechanist — John Wesley preaches here — Pepys' Visits to Lambeth — Messrs. Searle's Boat-building Establishment — Lambeth
Marsh— Narrow Wall and Broad Wall— Pedlar's Acre— The " Duke of Bolton," Governor of Lambeth Marsh— Belvedere Road— Belvedere
House and Gardens — Cuper's Gardens — Cumberland Gardens— The " Hercules " Inn and Gardens— The Apollo Gardens— Flora Gardens-
Lambeth Fields— Lambeth Wells — Outdoor Diversion in the Olden Time — Taverns and Public-houses— The "Three Merry Boys" — The
" Three Squirrels '' — The " Chequers " — The '* Three Goats' Heads " — The " Axe and Cleaver " — The Halfpenny Hatch.

The parish of Lambeth, upon which we now
enter at its north-eastern angle, previously to its
sub-division was no less than sixteen miles in
circumference ; being bounded by Newington,
Cambervvell, Streatham, Croydon, by the river
Thames, and by the parishes of St. George's and
Christ Church, Southwark. It is divided into four
liberties, and again sub-divided into the following
eight wards or precincts : the Bishop's, the Prince's,
Vauxhall, Kennington, Marsh, Wall, Stockwell, and
Dean's. The parish, and especially its palace, is
connected with English history ; for, as we have
already observed, Hardicanute is said to have died
suddenly here at a wedding feast — a clear proof
that even in the Saxon times there was a palace
here, or the residence of some Saxon thane.

The early history of the parish is thus told
by Pennant : — " In early times it was a manor,
possibly a royal one, for the great Hardiknut
died here in 1042, in the midst of the jollity of
a wedding dinner ; and here, without any formality,
the usurper Harold is said to have snatched the
crown, and to have placed it on his own head.
It was then part of the estate of Goda, wife suc-
cessively to "Walter, Earl of Mantes, and Eustace,
Earl of Boulogne, who presented it to the Church
of Rochester, but reserved to herself the patronage
of the church. It became, in 11 97, the property of

the see of Canterbury, by an exchange transacted
between Glanville, Bishop of Rochester, and the
archbishop, Hubert Walter. Glanville received
out of the e.xchange a small piece of land, on
which he built a house, called Rochester Place,
for the reception of the Bishops of Rochester
whenever they came to London to attend Parlia-
ment. In 1357 the then bishop, John de Sheppey,
built Stangate Stairs, for the convenience of himself
and his retinue to cross over into Westminster.
Fisher and Hilsley were the last bishops who in-
habited this palace ; after their deaths it fell into
the hands of Henry VHL, who exchanged with
Aldridge, Bishop of Carlisle, for certain houses in
the Strand, and its name was changed to that of
Carlisle House. The small houses built on its
site," he adds, "still (1790) belong to that see."

In the book of Domesday we find the Manor of
Lambeth belonging to this Countess Goda. One
of the holders of the see of Rochester, in the reign
of Henry II., exchanged it for other lands with
Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury ; and we know
that Hubert Walter, one of his successors in the
archiepiscopate and Lord High Chancellor in the
reign of Richard I., resided here.

If the old manor of Lambeth was co-extensive
with the subsequent parish, it must have extended
along the Thames from Battersea to Southwark,

3S4

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth.

and from the river-side to the limits of Norwood,
Kennington, and Streatham, and even to those of
the parish of Croydon ; but diis is not quite
certain.

" Lambeth, anciendy Lamb-hythe," Northouck
thus writes, "is a village situated along the
Thames between Southwark and Battersea, ex-
tending southward from the east end of Waterloo
Bridge, and chiefly inhabited by glass-blowers,

Clapham, and have been bounded to the south by
the beautiful Surrey hills. Lambeth Marsh and
the Bank-side evidently were recovered from the
water. Along Lambeth are the names of ' Narrow
Walls,' or mounds, which served for that purpose ;
and in Southwark, again, ' Bankside ' shows the
means of converting the ancient lake into useful
land. Even to this day the tract beyond South-
wark, and in particular that beyond Bermondsey

THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE THAMES, TAKEN FROM ADELI'HI TERRACE.
{From an Etching by NitgCKt, in 1770.)

potters, fishermen, and watermen." The name
of the [ilacc has been spelled variously as Lamheth,
Lambyth, Lamedh, Lamhees, &c. ; and so far back
as the time of the Danish occupation it was a
village adjacent to the capital.

Pennant, the antiquary, considers that in the
time of the Roman occupation, if not at a later
date, the Surrey side of the Thames near the
metropolis was in all probability a great expanse
of water— a " Llyn," as the Welsh call it ; and he
thought that possibly the name of London is but
a corruption or variation of " Llyn Din " — the city
on the lake. "The expanse of water," he con-
tinues, " might have filled the space between the
rising grounds at (near) Deptford and those at

Street, is so very low, and beneath the level of
common (spring) tides, that the proprietors are
obliged to secure it by embankments."

Pennant tells us also that in 1560 there was not
a single house standing between Lambeth Palace
and Southwark ! Indeed, the place was all open
country even in the time of diaries II. Thus
Pepys writes in his "Diary," in July, 1663: —
" Went across the water to Lambeth, and so over
the fields to Southwark."

In Ralph Aggas' map of London, to which we
have often referred, in the foreground on the left
are the Palace of the Archbishop of Canterbury
and Lambeth Church, with only one house at a
small distance off; a little to the northward is a

Lambeth.]

I.AMBEIH TWO CENTURIES AGO.

385

road leading to the river opposite the landing-place
in Palace Yard. The principal ditch of Lambeth
Marsh, if we may trust the map, falls into the
Thames opposite the Temple Gardens, the ground
being occupied by only a single dwelling. On the
river-bank opposite Whitefriars commences a line
of houses, with gardens and groves behind them,
and continued, with little intermission, to the stairs
and palace of the Bishop of Winchester on the

famous Nonsuch House is conspicuous. Another
striking object in the foreground is the noble cruci-
form church of St. Mary Ovene, of which we have
already spoken, in magnitude and architectural
character the third church in the metropolis, with
its pinnacled tower a huntlred and fifty feet in
height. The park of the Bishop of Winchester
appears also walled in on all sides ; hence comes
the name of Park Street in this locality. On the

SEAKLL's BO.^T-VARD l.N iSjO. (c,ec p. 3S7.;

Bankside. One of the most noted places along
this line is Paris Garden, the site of which, as we have
stated in the preceding chapter, is now covered by
Christ Church in Blackfriars Road. Farther east-
ward, but behind die houses, we see certain circular
buildings for bull and bear baiting — amusements to
which the " virgin " Queen Elizabeth was partial.
Near the bear-baiting place, or " Bear-garden," as
it was styled, was a dog-kennel, from which several
savage dogs are seen issuing forth. From Win-
chester Palace to the Borough High Street, and
along Tooley (St. Olave's) Street to Battle Bridge,
the houses stand somewhat thickly ; but towards
Horselydown the ground is open, and the buildings
are surrounded with gardens. We here see London
Bridge crowded with buildings, among which the
273

right stands St. Olave's Church, the successor of
one built here before the Norman'Conquest.

The history of Lambeth for several centuries was
mainly confined to iis Palace, and consequently
little remains to be said here till we come down to
the beginning of the seventeenth century. No doubt,
every district of this great metropolis has a character,
moral if not physical, of its own ; but the American
writer who remarked that " there is scarcely a greater
difference between Americans and Russians than
between the inhabitants of Lambeth and of Central
London," was guilty of at least a rhetorical exag-
geration, if not of something worse.

A curious old etching by Thomas Nugent, of
about the date 1770, which we reproduce on page
384, shows the south side of the Thames, as seen

386

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth.

from the top of the Adelphi Terrace. In the fore-
ground is the " Shot Tower," still standing, near the
southern end of Waterloo Bridge ; near it, a little to
the west, are Caper's Gardens, a mass of trees and
foliage ; to the south is the Windmill, in Lambeth
Marsh ; and lastly, St. George's Fields. In the
distance are houses, high out of all proportion, and
of foreign appearance ; while the Surrey hills rise
to absurd heights in the background, somewhat like
the chain of the .\pennines or Pyrenees.

.\ poem on this rural spot, published in the
Afirror in 1824, mentions — we know not whether
with a poefs lawful exaggeration or not — " tall
oaks " as still " waving their ancient branches over-
head ; " and in it are recounted many of the his-
torical recollections of the place : how Hardicanute
died suddenly here, while feasting his subjects.

"No rebel hand
Of life with violence that proud prince deprived ; j

The brimming goblet often to his lips j

He raised, in mad contempt of nature's law
And dictates wise : from off the couch he sank
A lifeless corse. In vain the wassail cup |

Passed gaily round the joyous festive board ; I

In vain the vaulted roof with loud acclaim
Of royal goodness did re-echo wide :
The royal patron of the feast was dead."

And then the writer proceeds to record the perse-
cutions of which the Lollards' Tower was too often
the scene ; the shelter afforded by the church porch
to iMary of jModena, when she fled from Whitehall !
with her little son, as we have already said ; the
burials of the two Tradescants, father and son. But
we must descend from the lofty region of poetry
and imagination to sober prose and dry facts.

Lambeth, however, is not quite without its his- '
torical romance, for to this place Lord Percy and
the Duke of Lancaster, John of Gaunt, were glad
to be able to effect their escape from the Savoy |
when that palace was assailed and sacked by the
mob in 1377.*

Here, in iCog.or 1610, the Lady Arabella Stuart,
cousin of James I., having contracted a private
marriage with William Seymour, a son of Lord
Beauchamp, was kept a prisoner in the house of
Sir Thomas Parry. She contrived, however, whilst
here to correspond with her husband, and the
wedded pair managed to effect her removal to
IIighgate,t where she remained, under surveillance,
in the house of a Mr. Conyers, from whom she
endeavoured to escape to France ; but she was
caught in the Channel on board sliip, and brought
back to the Tower to end her days a [irisoner.
Her misfortunes — which read like a chapter in a

romance — seem to have arisen simply and solely
from her nearness to the Crown. Her husband,
surviving her by many years, was invested by
Charles II. with the Dukedom of Somerset, which
had been forfeited by his ancestor, the Protector.

Lambeth, as we have already seen in passing
through those parts lymg about Kennington, has
numbered in its time many residents of note. Be^
sides those whose names we have mentioned, there
was living here, in the middle of the seventeenth
century, one Mr. Morland (afterwards Sir Samuel
Morland), a famous mechanist, not unknown as a
statesman, and at whose house Charles II. passed
the first night of his restoration. It was this person
who, while employed as a clerk at Thurloe's cham-
bers in Lincoln's Inn, J overheard the conversation
between the Protector (Cromwell) and Thurloe, in
which it was designed to inveigle the king, then
an exile at Bruges, and his younger brothers, the
Dukes of York and Gloucester, into the Protector's
power. Morland, it seems, was asleep at his desk,
or was thought to be so ; and Cromwell, appre-
hensive that his conversation had been overheard,
drew his dagger, and would have dispatched the
slumberer on the spot, had not Thurloe, with some
difficulty, prevented him, assuring him that his
intended victim was untjuestionably asleep, since,
to his own knowledge, he had been sitting up
two nights together. It had been privately inti-
mated to the king and his brothers, through the
agency of Sir Richard Willis, that if, on a stated
day, tb.cy would land on the coast of Sussex, they
would be received by a body of five hundred men,
which would be augmented the following morning
by two thousand horse. Had they fallen into the
snare, it seems that all three would have been shot
immediately on reaching the shore. Morland, how-
ever, had not been asleep, as was supposed by
Thurloe and Cromwell ; and through his means
the king and his brothers were made acquainted
with the design against their lives. We shall have
more to say about Sir Samuel Morland when we
reach Vauxhall Gardens.

In spite of the vicinity of the archbishop's palace,
Lambeth, in the latter half of the last century,
could reckon among its residents some of the most
zealous members of the Wesleyan body ; and John
Wesley preached in Lambeth Chapel, opi)osite
Bethlehem Hospital, on February 17th, 1791, only
one brief fortnight before his death.

Ajiparently, two centuries ago, when there was
only one bridge across the Tliames, Lambeth was
the place from which the Portsmouth coach, and

• Sec Vul. 111., p. 95,

t Sec \ul. V , p. 402.

JSte Vul. Ill,, p. 53.

Lambeth. 3

PEDLAR'S ACRE.

387

probably most of the other conveyances to Hamp-
shire and Dorsetshire, started. At all events,
Pepys writes in his " Diary," under date 1660,
'' We took water for Lambeth, and there coach for
Portsmouth." On another occasion he tells us
that he crossed the water to Lambeth in order to
make a journey by land to Woolwich.

Lambeth was a great place for boat-building as
far back, certainly, as the reign of Charles IL At
all events, Samuel Pepys tells us in his " Diary,"
under date August 13th, 1662, "To Lambeth, and
there saw the little pleasure-boat in building by the
king, my Lord Brouncker, and the virtuosos of the
town, according to new lines, which Mr. Pett cries
up mightily ; but how it will prove we shall soon
see." We have already met with Mr. Commissioner
Pett in our saunterings through Deptford.*

Apart from its boat-building, which was carried
on here to a large extent until the formation of
the southern or Albert Embankment, Lambeth
has long been one of the principal points on the
Thames, above bridge, for the traffic both of
watermen and the more modern steamboat con-
veyance. Searle's boat-yard, just above West-
minster Bridge, on the spot now covered by the
Albert Embankment, in front of St. Thomas's
Hospital, was a place as familiar to the boating
men of Oxford in the last generation as the " Ship"
at Mortlake, or the " Star and Garter " at Putney
are now. Messrs. Searle's boat-yard has of late
years been removed to another site higher up the
river, at Stangate, close to Lambeth Bridge.

We have described the marshy nature of the
land lying between the river and St. George's Fields
in former times. Lambeth Marsh — for by such
name the locality was known — was protected from
the incursion of the river by embankments. At a
very early date banks of earth were erected along
the south side of the Thames, in order to keep
out the tidal waters, and to hold them in check.
Our readers will not have forgotten that one locality
in Southwark still retains the name of Bankside.t
Other embankments, too, were raised, in order to
assist in keeping the inland district from inunda-
tion, and to form causeways for passengers travelling
from Lambeth to London Bridge and the several
landing-places along the river-side. Of these em-
bankments, one running nearly parallel with the
river was called Narrow Wall ; another, bounding
the marsh on the east, Broad Wall ; and an ancient
raised road, probably as old as the time of the
Roman occupation, followed the line of the street
now known as Lambeth, or Lower Marsh.

* See nrtte, p. 148.

t See aiite^ p. 45.

Lambert, in his "History of Surrey" (1806),
tells us that on " Narrow Wall " is a manufactory
of artificial stone, established in 1769 by Mr.
Coade. "The preparation," he adds, "is cast in
moulds and burnt, and is intended to answer every
purpose of carved stone. It is possessed of the
peculiar property of resisting frost, and conse-
quently it retains its sharpness, in which it excels
every species of stone, and even equals marble."

About 1870 a sculptured bas-relief (2! feet by 2
feet, and 4 inches thick) was found in the course
of excavations for deep foundation at Broad Wall.
It represented the figure of a chief, attired and
armed as if for the chase, with certain attributes of
costume of a non-European (perhaps American)
character, such as a deep fringe round the loins,
and strings of beads on the neck, arms, and legs.
The spot where it was found was formerly a bog ;
and it was supposed by the Archaeological Institute
to be part of the cargo of a vessel broken upon
the spot many ages ago.

There were, even as late as the beginning of
the present century, oi)en fields, with a windmill,
where now the renowned "New Cut" connects
the Blackfriars and Waterloo Roads. Mill Street,
which was pulled down on the formation of the
South-Western Railway, marked the site whereon
stood a group of picturesque old wooden mills.
The spot between the Belvedere Road and the
river, between Waterloo and \\'estminster Bridges —
till recently known as Pedlar's Acre — was called,
in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Church
Osiers, from a large osier-bed which occupied the
spot. This is a plot of ground of some historical
notoriety, though of no great importance. It was
originally a small strip of land, one acre and nine
poles in extent, situate alongside of the Narrow
Wall, and has belonged to the parish of Lambeth
from time immemorial. It is said to have been
given by a grateful pedlar, on condition that his
portrait and that of his dog shoukl be preserved
for ever, in painted glass, in one of the windows ot
the parish church. This request has been duly
observed down to our own day, for the picture
was, till lately, to be seen in one of the windows
of the church, and some amusing legendary tales
are still told about the pedlar of Lambeth and
his dog. Whatever truth there may be in the
tradition that the ground in question was be-
queathed to the parish by a pedlar, on condition
that the picture of himself and his dog be pre-
served in the window of the church, we will not
pretend to determine. Astute antiquaries, how-
ever, have searched the parish registers, and there
find that the land was beijueathed by some person

388

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth.

unknown.* On Pedlar's Acre was at one time a
public-house, with the sign of a pedlar and his dog ;
and on one of tne windows in the tap-room the
following lines were written with a diamond : —
' " Happy the pedlar whose portrait we view,

Since his dug was so faithful and fortunate too ;
He at once made him wealthy, and guarded his door,
Secured him from robbers, relieved him wheu poor.
Then drink to his memory, and wish fate may send
Such a dog to protect you, enrich, and befriend."

One of the windows of Lambeth Church also used
to contain a figure of the pedlar and his dog. Its
removal caused much local annoyance in 1884.

THt. lEULAR AiMJ nib IJUW, I KOM LAMliElH (JilUKCH.

Hereabouts lived and died an eccentric character,
Henry Paulet, commonly known as " Duke of
Bolton, King of Vine Street, and Governor of
Lambeth Marsh." He had in early life performed
services to the Government in America, and sub-
sequently had assisted Admiral Hawke in defeating
a French fleet off Brest ; but he chose to take up
his abode here in retirement and in the practice
of charity towards his poorer neighbours. " As to
the good which he did with his income," writes
the author of " The Fxcentric," " there is not a
poor man or woman in the neighbourhood of the
Pedlar's Acre who does not testify with gratitude to
some act of benevolence performed for the allevia-
tion of his or her poverty by the hand of this
humane and heroic Englishman."

Belvedere Road probably takes its name from
the Belvedere House and Gardens, a well-known
place of amusement, dating from (^ueen Anne's
time, but of which few records remain. These
gardens are not mentioned by Malcolm, nor by
John Timbs, in his " Curiosities of I,ondon,"

who simply tells us that Lambeth in former days
" abounded in gardens." The Belvedere Gardens,
we may add, are likewise passed over without a
word by Pennant, Northouck, and Lambert.

Adjoining Belvedere Gardens, not far from the
southern end of Waterloo Bridge, on the site now
occupied by the timber-wharves of Belvedere Road,
and close by the Lion Brewery, which abuts upon
the river, stood formerly a noted place of public
resort, known as Cuper's Gardens, and constantly
alluded to by writers in the eighteenth century.
As far back as the beginning of the eighteenth
century, if not earlier, it was famous for its displays
of fireworks. " It was not, however," says Dr. C.
Mackay, in his " Thames and its Tributaries," " the
resort of respectable company, but of the abandoned
of either sex." It is frequently mentioned in the
comedies and satires of the day as bearing a very
indifferent character. Dr. Mackay lets us into a
little of the antiquarianism of the place, for he tells
us that it took its name from Boydell Cuper, who
had been gardener to Lord Arundel on the other
side of the river, and who rented the ground from
his lordship. In our account of Arundel Houset
we mentioned that it was adorned with a variety of
busts and statues ; and it appears that when that
house was pulled down in order to build new
streets, a number of these statues, in a more or
less mutilated state, came into Cuper's possession,
and were set up in different parts of his gardens.
This place of entertainment was suppressed by
the authority of the magistrates in 1753. It is
described by Mr. J. H. Jesse as " a favourite place
of resort for the gay and profligate from the end
of the seventeenth to the middle of the eighteenth
century." It must have somewhat resembled the
" Spring Garden " at Charing Cross, if it be true,
as stated by Mr. Jesse, that " the principal attrac-
tions of the gardens were their retired arbours,
their shady walks ornamented with statues and
ancient marbles, and especially the fireworks."
The trees which threw their shade upon these
walks were standing, at all events, as late as 1770,
for they are shown in the etching which we repro-
duce on page 384, the view of which is taken
from the top of the newly-built Adeljihi Terrace.
The banks of the river, as shown in our illustration,
were at that time steep and irregular, and the
houses few and far between where now is all the
bustle of the Waterloo Railway Station. A print
of Cuper's Gardens is in existence, showing the
groves, alcoves, and statues with which it was
adorned. Some of the plane-trees belonging to

" 'there IS A siniihr tr.iilitti)n
parish of Swaffham, in Norfolk.

of .1 {>eJI.4r being a bcnclactor to the

t See Vol. 111., p. 71.

Lambeth.]

LAMBETH WELT.S.

389

these gardens are still green and flourishing in the
grounds behind St. John's Church, Waterloo Road;
and the name of the place is still preserved in
Cuper's Stairs, nearly opposite the Adelphi. Part
of the site of Cuper's Gardens was afterwards occu-
pied by Beaufoy's* vinegar works till the formation
of Waterloo Bridge and its approaches.

Besides the gardens above mentioned, several
other places for open-air entertainment were estab-
lished in Lambeth in the latter part of the last cen-
tury. The Duke of Cumberland, the " butcher "
hero of Culloden, gave name to some gardens by the
river-side, not far from Nine Elms. The Hercules
Inn and Gardens were at the junction of the Ken-
nington and Westminster Roads, on the spot after-
wards occupied by the Female Orphan Asylum,
and now by Christ Church. The gardens were
opened in 1758 ; their memory is still preserved by
Hercules Buildings, in Westminster Bridge Road.

Mead's Row was the name of a narrow and
short cut leading from the Kennington Road to
the Lambeth Road, and forming the base of a
triangle of which Christ Church is the apex. In it
was an old house known as " Frog Hall," where
Parsons, " the Comic Roscius," lived, and where he
died in January, 1795.

Nearly opposite, close to Messrs. Maudslay's
engineering works, were the Apollo Gardens,
opened in 1788 by a Mr. Cloggett, proprie-
tor of the fashionable Pantheon in Oxford
Street. Here there was a central orchestra, and
alcoves with snug wooden boxes all around, con-
taining grotesque and amusing pictures and sculp-
tures. In the same year the Flora Gardens were
opened in Mtjunt Street ; but in two or three years
these places had acquired such an evil repute that
the magistrates suppressed them.

The Lambeth Fields were for two centuries a
favourite resort of Londoners, and celebrated for
the variety of sweet-smelling flowers and medicinal
herbs growing there. Near the Upper Marsh was
Curtis's great botanical garden, on the spot where in
the old times had stood a lazar-house.

In the reign of William III. there was another
place of amusement, known as " Lambeth Wells,"
in what is now Lambeth Walk, but was then
termed Three Coney Walk ; they were held for a
time in high repute, on account of their mineral
waters, which were advertised as to be sold, ac-
cording to John Timbs, at " a penny a quart, the
same price paid by St. Thomas's Hospital." About
1750, we learn from the same authority, there was
a musical society held here, and lectures, with

• See Pennant's " London,"

experiments in natural philosophy, were delivered
by Dr. Erasmus King and others. Malcolm tells
us that the Wells opened for the season regularly
on Easter Monday, being closed during the winter.
They had " public days " on Mondays, Thursdays,
and Saturdays, with " music from seven in the
morning till sunset ; on other days till two ! " The
price of admission was threepence. The water
was sold at a penny a quart to the " quality " and
to those who could pay for it ; being given g?-atis
to the poor. We incidentally learn that there
were grand gala and dancing days here in 1747
and 1752, when "a penny wedding, in the Scotch
manner, was celebrated for the benefit of a young
couple."

The following notice was issued in some of the
public papers in August, 17 10: — " A gold ring is
to be danced for on the 31st instant, and a hat to
be played for at skittles the next day following, at
the ' Green Gate,' in Gray's Walks, near Lambeth
Wells." About this time, Lambeth Marsh, close
by, and the fields round about, were the scene of
out-door diversion and merry-making during the
summer months, running matches and "grinning"
matches being of frequent occurrence.

A propos of these gatherings for social enjoy-
ment, the following quotation from Fielding's
" Proverbs" may not be out of place here, as Lam-
beth was one of the head-quarters of amusement for
the citizens of London: — "In addition to the May
games, morris-dancing, pageants, and processions,
which were common throughout the kingdom, the
Londoners," he tells us, "had peculiar privileges
of hunting, hawking, and fishing ; they had also
large portions of ground allotted to them in the
vicinity of the City for the practice of such
pastimes as were not prohibited, and for those,
especially, that were conducive to health. On the
holidays, during the summer season, the young
men exercised themselves in the fields with leaping,
archery, wrestling, playing with balls, and practising
with their wasters and bucklers. The City damsels
had also their recreations, playing upon their
timbrels and dancing to the music, which they
often practised by moonlight. One writer sa)s
it was customary for the maidens to dance in
presence of their masters and mistresses, while
one of their companions played the music on a
timbrel ; and to stimulate them, the best dancers
were rewarded with a garland, the prize being
exposed to public view during the performance.
To this custom Spenser alludes— .

' — ■ — -The d.imsels they delight,
When they their timbrels smite,
And thereunto d.ince and carol sweet.'

390

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lamheth.

The London apprentices often amused themselves
with their wasters and bucklers before the doors
of their masters. Hunting with the Lord Mayor's
pack of hounds was a diversion of the metropolis,
as well as sailing, rowing, and fishing on the
Thames. Duck-hunting was a favourite recreation
in the summer, as we learn from Strype."

Among the other sports which prevailed in
Lambeth, in the days of " Merrye Englande,"

Since the first formation of streets in the place
of the fields and marshy ground hereabouts, Lam-
beth, like most other water-side places, has not
been behind hand in the number of its public-
houses, some of which have acquired more than a
local reputation. From a manuscript list, written
about the year 1810, we glean the following parti-
culars of its tavern signs : — In Westminster Bridge
Road, the "Army and Navy," the " King's Head,"

Ol.D WINDMILLS AT LAMEKTH, ABOUT 1750.

was that of " hocking," or catching and binding
with ropes the passers-by in the street. The men
" hocked " the women, and the women the men ;
and each had to pay a small fine on being released.
.Strutt tells us, in his " Sports and Pastimes," that
" Hock-Day " was celebrated jirobably in remem-
brance of the death of Hanlicanute, already
mentioned, wiiich delivered England from the
tyranny of the Danes. In the churchwardens'
accounts of Lambeth for 151 5 and the following
year are several entries of " hock-monies " received
from the men and the women for the church
service. "And here we may observe," adds
Stnitt, with a stroke of dry humour, " the con-
tributions collected by the fair sex exceeded those
made by the men."

the " Rose," the " Crown," the " Red Lion," the
" Dover Castle," tlie " Canterbury Arms," and the
" New Crown and Cushion." In Cobiirg Road,
the " Three Compasses " and the " Olive Branch ''
In Coburg Place, the " Queen"s Anns" and "The
Pilgrim."^ In Broad Wall, the " Mitre" and "The
Bull in the Pound " — the latter of which ])oints to
the time when a bull was liable to be punished
for trespa.ss, and i)ut into the pound or pinfold.
In Gibson Street, "The Duke of Sussex." In
Hatfield Street, "The Duke of Wurtcmberg"— a
sign which commemorated the marriage of the
Princess Royal, daughter of George III., with
Frederick, first King of Wurtemberg. At Lambeth
Butts, "The T.inkcrville Arms."

In Upper Fore Street there is an inn with thp

I. Carlisle House.

OLD VIEWS IN LAMBETH
Entrance to Cuper's Gardens. 3- Remains of Orchestra, Cuper's Gardens.

4. Conspirators' House.

392

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

fLambeth.

sign of the "Three Merry Boys," which, as Mr.
Larwood suggests, is probably a corruption of the [
" Three Mariners," a tavern which is known to !
have existed within the parish. Allen tells us, in ,
his " History of Lambeth," that when this inn
underwent repairs in 1752, there was found in it j
a remarkable arm-chair, with high elbows, covered
with purple cloth, and ornamented with gilt nails. ■
" An old fisherman," adds Mr. Allen, '• told Mr.
Buckmaster that he had heard his grandfather say '
that Charles II. used to frequent this tavern in
disguise, on his water-tours along with his ladies, in
order to play chess, &c., and that the chair found [
was the same in which the king sat. The royal J
chair was repaired, and kept as a curiosity by the
late Mr. John Dawson, but was destroyed at the
pulling down of his old dwelling in Vauxhall. Mr.
Buckmaster sat in the chair many times ; but his
feet would not touch the ground." King Charles,
it will be remembered, was very tall in stature : a
fact which strongly corroborates the idea that the
chair was not only sat upon by his Majesty, but
also designed and made for his special use.

" The Three Squirrels " was the sign of an inn
here, mentioned by Taylor, the water-poet, in
1636, but its exact locality is not known. The
same sign is still to be seen over the door of
Messrs. Goslings', the bankers, in Fleet Street.

In Calcot's Alley was formerly an inn which
bore the sign of the " Chequers." It is worthy of
note here, on account of a fact connected with it
mentioned by Allen, in his " History of Lambeth,''
viz., that in 1454 its owner, one John Calcot, had
granted to him a licence to have an oratory in his |
house, and a chaplain for the use of his family and |
guests, and adapted to the celebration of divine
service as long as his house should continue to be
orderly and respectable.

The " Three Goats' Heads," a public-house
on the road to Wandsworth, was original!)- the
" Cordwainers' " or " Shoemakers' Arms," which
are " azure, a chevron or, between three goat.s'
heads, erased, argent." (kadually the heraldic
attributes have fallen away, or been blotted out
by the clumsy sign-painter's brush, and the goats'
heads alone now remain ; the name of the inn,
too, has sunk from the region of heraldry to that of
vulgar commonplace.

Till near the end of the last century, an inn, with
the sign of the " Axe and Cleaver " — a compliment
to the carpenter's trade — was to be seen near the
garden-wall of the archbishop's palace ; and hard
by was another of a like kind, " The Two Sawyers."
These signs require no comment.

We have mentioned in previous chapters the

existence, in former times, near St. George's Church
in the Borough, and likewise at Rotherhithe, of a
thoroughfare known as the Halfpenny Hatch.*
Lambeth, we may .^dd, could boast of its Half-
penny Hatch as late as the commencement of the
present century. It led from Christ Church, in
the Blackfriars Road, to the Marsh Gate, near
Westminster Bridge, over some fields where now
stands St. John's Church, Waterloo Road.

Here Astley first exhibited his horses, before
taking the ground near Westminster Bridge which
has since been associated with his name. The
Hatch House was at the back of St. John's Church,
at the end of Neptune Place, and its forlorn and
ramshackle condition is graphically described by
Mr. John T. Smith, in his "Book for a Rainy
Day." Its site still presents the same sunken
appearance, the ground around it having been
artificially raised for building purposes. " It was
built," writes Mr. Smith, " subsequent to the year
1 78 1, by Curtis, the famous botanist, whose name
it still retains; but the original Hatch House, I
was informed, stood at the back of the present one."
He tells us how he took a sketch of " this vine-
mantled Half-penny Hatch ; " but his sketch is not
now in existence.

There was a time when the description of Pope,
in his youthful imitation of Spenser, was really
applicable to Lambeth : —

" In every town where Thamis rolls his tyde,

A narrow pass there is, with houses low,
Where ever and anon the stream is eyed,

And many a boat soft gliding to and fro ;
'I'here oft are heard the notes of infant wo,

The short, thick sob, loud scream, and shriller squall.

• « « • •
" And on the broken p.ivement, here and there,

Doth many a stinking spr.it and herring lie ;
A brandy and tobacco shop is near,

And hens and dogs and hogs are feeding by ;
And here a sailor's jacket hangs to dry.

At every door are sun-burnt matrons seen
Mending old nets to catch the scaly fry,

Now singing shrill, and scolding oft between —

Scold answers foul-mouth'd scold ; bad neighbourhood,
I ween.

• • • • •
" Such ]ilace hath Deptford, navy-building town ;

\Voul» ich and Wapping, smelling stiong of pitch ;
Such I.ambetli, envy of each band and gown."

Dr. Charles Mackay quotes these lines, in his
" Thames and its Tributaries," as still applicable to
Lambeth in 1840. In 1877, however, the scene is
very dificrcnt ; and, thanks to the erection of the
Albert Embankment, Lambeth must be removed
out of the category of low river-side scenes.

• See aritt, pp, 75, 133.

Lambeth. 1

THE OLD COBURG THEATRE.

393

CHAPTER XXX.
LAMBETH {con/imu-c/j.—THZ TRANSPONTINE THEATRES.

" .^blegandae Tibcrim ultra."— ^tfr^Ci*.

The Moralily of the Transpontine Theatres— The building of the Coburg Theatre - Its Name changed lo the Victoria— Vicissitudes of the Theatre—
The Last Night of the Oiil Victoria— The Thiatre altered and re-opened as the Royal Victoria Palace Theatre— A Romantic Story— Origin of
Astley's Amphitheatre— Biographical Sketch of Philip Astley— His Riding School near the Halfpenny Hatch— He builds a Riding School
near Westminster Bridge— The Edifice altered, and called the Royal Grove— Destruction of the Royal Grove by Fire— The Theatre rebuilt,
and opened as the .Amphitheatre of Arts— The 'Iheatrc a second time destroyed by Fire- Again rebuilt, and called the Royal Amphitheatre
— Astley and his Musicians- Death of Mr. Astley— The Theatre under the Management of Mr. W. Davis— Ducrow and West— Description
of the Theatre— Dickens's Account of " Astley's "—The third Theatre burnt down— Death of Ducrow— The Theatre rebuilt by Batty— Its
subsequent History— Its Name altered to Sanger's Grand National Amphitheatre.

Unlike Covent Garden, the Haymarket, and other
" West-end " houses, the " Transpontine " theatres
have always been chiefly remarkable for spectacular
or " sensational" performances : in a word, for such
entertainments as appeal more to the eye than to
the understanding ; for, as may be easily imagined,
their managers — in some of them, at least — have to
cater altogether for a different constituency from
that which forms the support of the old patent
theatres, and generally those of the West-end. With
reference to the morality of the transpontine
theatres, Charles Knight wrote, in his Pennj/ Maga-
zine, in 1 846 : " Look at our theatres ; look at the
houses all around them. Have they not given a
taint to the very districts they belong to ? The
Coburg Theatre, now called the Victoria, and the
Surrey, what are they ? At Christmas time, at each
of these minor theatres, may be seen such an
appalling amount of loathsome vice and depravity
as goes beyond Eugene Sue, and justifies the most
astounding revelations of Smollett." Happily,
matters have mended considerably since he wrote,
and the vicinity of even a minor theatre is now by
no means so absolutely and hopelessly depraved.
Allusions to the transpontine places of entertain-
ment are common enough in the writings of the
last generation ; and the authors of the " Rejected
Addresses," published in the year 1812, in mock-
heroic style, attribute, of course in jest, the burning
of so many of our places of amusement to the arch-
enemy. Napoleon Bonaparte !

" Base Bonaparte, fill'd with deadly ire,
Sets one by one our play-houses on fire.
Some years ago he pounced with deadly glee on
The Opera House, then burnt down the Pantheon ;
Nay, still unsated, in a coat of flames
Next at Millbank he crcssed the River Thames,
Thy Hatch,* O Half-penny ! pass'd in a trice,
Boil'd some black pitch, and burnt down Astley's twice ;
Then buzzing on through ether, with a vile hum
Turn'd to the left hand fronting the Asylum,
And burnt the Royal Circus in a hurry —
'Twas called the Circus then, but now the Surry."

* See ante, p. 392,

Of the " Surrey " we have already written at
length in a previous chapter ;+ it now remains for
us to deal with the " Victoria " and " Astley's."
The Victoria Theatre, formerly called the Coburg,
and in more recent times the Royal Victoria Palace
Theatre, is situated in the Waterloo Road, at the
corner of the New Cut, and not far from the South-
western Railway Station.

The building of Waterloo Bridge, which was
commenced in 18 11, and was completed si.x years
afterwards, led to the erection of this theatre, which
was originally called the "Coburg," in compliment
to Prince Leopold of Saxe Coburg (afterwards
King of the Belgians), the husband of the Princess
Charlotte. The first stone was laid by the prince,
by pro.xy, in October, 181 7, and the theatre was
opened on Whit-Monday in the following May.
No doubt, a desire on the part of dramatists and
performers to escape from the vexatious restrictions
then (and still) imposed by the Lord Chamberlain
on theatres within his jurisdiction was largely
instrumental in procuring the erection of this and
of the Surrey Theatre. The builder of the structure
was an ingenious carpenter, a Frenchman, named
Cabanelle, % who arranged it after the fashion of a
minor French theatre, nearly circular in shape,
decorating the interior with strong contrasts of
colour. Few persons, in all probability, are aware
that the foundations of the theatre are extensively
composed of the stones of the old Savoy Palace in
the Strand, which were cleared away in order to
form Lancaster Place. §

The " Coburg " was built with a due regard to
the character of the surrounding population, and
was therefore designed for melodramas and panto-
mimes ; and, until quite recent years, it adheretl
pretty closely to its original purpose, under
a variety of lessees and managers. Among the
pieces performed on the opening night was Trial

t See ante, p. 368.

t This foreigner had constructed the stage of Drury Lane Theatre,
and had also invented, for large buildings, a peculiar kind of roof, which
was called by his name.

5 See VoL III., p 286.

394

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

r Lambeth,

by Battle; or. Heaven Defend the Right, based
on the memorable appeal made by the brothers
of Mary Ashford against her murderer, Abraham
Thornton, the applicant's right to a " trial by wager
of battle " having been acknowledged by the Court
of King's Bench only a month previously. At tlie
end of the first season the public were told by the
proprietor that it was his intention "to have all the
avenues (roads) to the theatre well lighted, while
the appomted additional patrols on the bridge road
— and keeping them in their own pay — will afford
ample security to the patrons of the theatre." The
public were also informed that the theatre was
financially successful, though Tom Dibdin states
that its opening was a " lamentable circumstance "
to both its owners and the lessee of the Surrey ;
for that each speculation showed a loss of several
thousands, whilst one theatre in that neighbourhood
might have reaped a large profit. Be this, how-
ever, as it may, it is worthy of record that amongst
those personages who have appeared on the boards
of the Coburg are to be reckoned Edmund Kean
(who received ;^ioo for performing here two nights
in 1830), Booth, T. P. Cooke, Buckstone, Benjamin
Webster, Liston, Joe Grimaldi, and G. V. Brooke,
the "Hibernian Roscius." In July, 1833 — with
a keen foresight of the future successor to the
Crown — the name of the Coburg was changed to
that of the " Victoria," in compliment to the young
princess who then stood as heir presumptive to the
throne, and the whole of the interior was altered
and embellished afresh. In the June of the fol-
lowing year the great violinist, Paganini, performed
here for a single night — his last public appearance
in this country. A special feature of this theatre,
for some years, was its "act drop," which was
tieither more nor less than a huge looking-glass.
It was lifted up bodily into the roof, where a large
box-shaped contrivance was fitted up to receive
it. Notwithstanding that the old " Vic " — for so
this theatre was popularly called — had in former
times numbered among its scene-painters such
men as Clarkson Stanfield, the great marine painter,
the ])lace does not appear to have been a very
fortunate speculation for its managers or lessees,
several being ruined by it.

When this theatre first opened its doors, up-
wards of half a century ago, it was in the presence
of a " large and flishionable audience," if we may
believe tlie newspapers of the day. Tlie piece
performed on that occasion, which we have men-
tioned above, entitled Trial by Battle ; or, Heaven
Defend the Rit^ht, was described in the play-bills
as an entirely new melodramatic spectacle, in
which was to be portraved the ancient mode of

decision by Kemp fight, or single combat. There
followed it a grand Asiatic ballet, and a new and
splendid harlequinade (partly from Milton's Masque
of Comus), " with new and extensive machinery,
mechanical changes, tricks, and metamorphoses;"
and the play-bills concluded with the comfortable
assurance, " extra patroles are engaged for the
bridge and roads leading to the theatre, and par-
ticular attention will be paid to the lighting of the
same." But the " fashionable " audience did not
long continue ; and the street lamps, the coster-
mongers' lamps of the New Cut, and the vigilance
of the metropolitan police, soon rendered unneces-
sary the " extra patroles " or the manager's " par-
ticular attention " being paid to the lighting of the
surrounding thoroughfares. The old "Vic" for
many years enjoyed a very doubtful reputation.
It was the place of which Charles Mathews once
wrote : " The lower orders rush there in mobs, and
in shirtsleeves applaud frantically, drink ginger-
beer, munch apples, crack nuts, call the actors
by their Christian names, and throw them orange-
peel and apples by way of bouquets." For many
years it bore a terribly bad character for fatal
accidents from crushing ; and a false alarm of fire
here caused the deaths of some fifteen or si.xteen
persons in December, 1858. In a few years more,
however, a change came, and on the -night of the
9th of September, 187 1, a crowded audience beheld
the last of the old Victoria. " It could be seen at
a glance," observes a writer in the Daily A'cics,
" that the evening was one to be held in special
fashion by the liumble dwellers in tlie New Cut.
A cherished institution, dear to them and their
children, was doomed, and they had come to take
a last fond look, and earn the right of narrating
by the winter fire how diey had seen the 'Vic'
proud in its glory and triumphant in its expiring
moments. The increase of prices to the extent of
threepence in every part of the house had no effect
upon the gallery or the pit, so that the jtrecautions
taken by the management to open the doors at
half-past five were (juite necessary. ... A
very laudable desire was felt to do all that could
be done that the \'ictoria Theatre might end its
days in peace, and pass to its rest with no fresh
disaster on its conscience. The audience, over-
awed maybe by the thoughts which seized them,
assisted to secure this result. Tliere, ascending
from gallery front into the dim roof, were the lusty
roughs, short-sleeved, slop-clothed, and cropped as
of yore ; but no missiles came from their hands ;
no internecine warfare was carried on, to the
mingled delight anil terror of the beholders; no '
oaths resounded from side to side ; no Bedlam was

Lambeth.]

THE LAST OF THE VICTORIA THEATRE.

395

let loose, as in the olden times when respectable
West-enders would not have dared to enter the
house without an unquestioned hfe assurance. The
audience at the 'Vic' has been made to answer
the purpose of ' awful warning ' for many a long
year, and we will do that of the closing night the
justice to say that, composed undoubtedly as it was
of persons living in the Lambeth highways and
bye-ways, it was, on the whole, as decorous as that
of any other house in the metropolis. The few
cat-calls that some hardy and unfeeling youths at
an early hour indulged in found no response ;
whistling even was at a discount ; and the very
children in arms stared wondrously at the drop-
scene, and rubbed their sticky litde knuckles into
their sleepy little eyes." The theatre on this
occasion was roused into a faint semblance of its
former self when the foreboding strains of the
overture heralded in " a Romantic Drama, entitled
the Trial by Battle" the chief merit of which was,
as we have before stated, that it commenced the
entertainment when the theatre was first opened,
on the Tith of May, 1818. It was not likely
there could have been a single person present on
the closing night who was also present when the
curtain rose for the first time at the Coburg Theatre,
albeit there were several who had seen themselves
reflected in the famous mirror curtain, and who
could remember the visit of the Princess Victoria
and the house's subsequent change of name. The
manager, Mr. Cave, offered a chastened, but still
appropriate, play-bill for the last night, and en-
gaged some well-known actors to grace the closing
scenes. ^^ Rob Roy" observes the writer quoted
above, "though not of the bloody and ghostly type
of play of which the ' Vic ' was the natural exponent,
is so bold in its situations, so full of ' Auld-Lang-
Syne ' sentiments, and so well seasoned with fighting
material, that it could not fail to touch the heart of
any genuine frequenter of the ' Vic' It is just a
little naughty, too : at least, to the extent of a con-
siderable amount of dram-drinking, a fair allowance
of cursing and swearing, and a sly approval of law-
lessness and contempt for the powers that be."
"Rob Roy," of course, found a host of sympa-
thisers ; and what with the capitally-sung songs, the
sanguinary conflicts, the sentiment, and the final
punishment of the villain "Rashleigh'' — enacted,
by the way, by one of the " Vic's " regular per-
formers, " a painstaking artist, with fine rolling eye,
trembling hand oft raised aloft, strongly heaving
bosom, and r's well rolled out from the inner
depths " — the curtain fell to a thunder of applause
that seemed to come from one capacious and en-
thusiastic throat. The actors were summoned:

they departed ; and still the applause continued,
until the appearance of Mr. Cave sealed the voci-
ferous tongues. The managerial speech was short,
unpretentious, and to the point. Eirst, thanks for
the patronage he had enjoyed during his four years
of management, and then the pathetic statement
— ■' This evening the curtain will drop lor ever
upon the Victoria Theatre." In the next breath
Mr. Cave was on with the new love before he was
off with the old, inasmuch as he announced that in
place of the " Vic " would arise a place of enter-
tainment that would surpass " for magnitude and
grandeur " anything the kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland ever saw. The godlings shouted
" hear, hear ! " as knowingly as members of Par-
liament, on being informed that the best dramas
of the period would there be exhibited before
the audiences of the future, and broke out into a
perfect whirlwind of applause when it was added
that the new proprietors did not intend to destroy
the speciality of the theatre. The Victoria was
henceforth to be half melo-drama and half music-
hall. Mr. Cave then retired, full of honours ; and,
as the curtain fell, a mournful-voiced, bare-armed
young man in the front row of the gallery audibly
summed up the case thus : — " Ah ! the poor old
Wic ! Pass the arf-an'-arf, 'Arry."

The following description of the closing scenes
of the "poor old Wic," from the pen of an eye-
witness, may be read with interest : — "The audience
required but little explanation beforehand as to the
last dish of the farew^ell feast. The bridge over the
rocks, the greasy moon overhead, and the smugglers
in the foreground, told the entire story the moment
the curtain was fairly up. In the first few sentences
our dear old friend ' Ongree ' was introduced,
closely followed by the equally familiar swarthy
ruffian in sea-boots, with enough pistols about him
to furnish a troop. Enter, also, a tall baron ; next
a tottering old man — the feeble father, upon whose
only child the bold wicked noble has the worst of
designs. In these smuggler bands there is always
one buccaneer who plays the part of the repentanf
sinner, through whose honest treachery by-and-by
vice — which is, of course, clothed in velvet and gold
— is punished, and virtue — which, equally of course,
goes in hunger and rags — is rewarded. The actor
who undertook this character, an old stager in
these parts, probably, was mildly requested to open
his mouth by one section, and consoled by cries
of ' Brayvo Bradshaw-er ! ' by another. He was a
weak brother from the smuggler's point of view,
and soon got himself into trouble by such heresies
as, ' Never will I give my consent to bring a vir-
tuous girl to infamy ! ' — a bit of oratory that drew

396

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth.

loud expressions of approval from the only drunken
man to be seen among the 1.500 persons crammed
into the upper regions. The ' Vic ' by this time
was itself again. Shouts were answered by shrill
whistlings, and the voices that one moment yelled
'Go it, my pippin ! ' were the readiest, the next, to
bowl, 'Turn him out!' Sentiment was thrown to
the winds. The repentant smuggler's glib boast,
' Though I am a poor smuggler, I am yet a man ! '

boisterous by any means. Mr. Cave seemed to
think differently, for he shot like an arrow from the
right wing, and rebuked the noisy portion of his
patrons, hinting to them that the melo-drama had
not been produced for larksome purposes, but to
give them a taste of the ancient quality. A decent-
looking man in the pit here made a remark, showing
that he resented the e.xtra prices which had been
imposed ; and Mr. Cave quietly reminded the

jll) "cohlkg" THLATKE I.N

was decidedly gibed at, all approval being reserved
for the unscrupulous villain — the tool of the baron
— who, without any hesitation, swore he cared ;
for nothing in the world so long as he got ' the
rhino.' The plotting of the village girl's abduction
by the smugglers was a sore test of patience. The
pit and other parts o: the house admonished the I
occupants of the gallery to be quiet, but to no pur- j
pose. Tiiere was an under-tone of discontent which ;
would not be allayed. The troubled waters were
calmed by the sudden change of the music from \
the dirgoful to the thunder-and-lightning order of
melody, such as precedes the opening of the trap-
door on Bo.xingnight, and the advent of a herd of 1
demons. The expected tragedy not happening on I
the instant, the discontent wa.xed louder, yet not I

grievance-monger that if he had been there when the
play was first produced, he would have had to jxiy
three shillings for his seat." The piece hereafter
proceeded with moderate interruptions only; but
when the curtain fell and the theatre was cleared,
there was a desolate look on the faces of the vast
crowd tliat lingered outside — it might have been
caused by the paltry number of four deaths during
the melo-drama ; or by the fact tliat tiie public-
houses were closed ; or, peradventure, because the
people had seen the last of the " Vic."

The old theatre, a few days later, was again
opened ; but the principal actor on this occasion
was the auctioneer, whose rostrum was "reeled on
ihe stage, amidst heaps of " properties " and other
articles. The stage, with all its traps, fittings, ,

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274

398

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth.

barrels, pulleys, &c., brought but ^25. The
building, however, was re-opened at the Christmas
of the same year, under the altered and enlarged
designation of the " Royal Victoria Palace Theatre,"
its interior having been entirely re-constnicted and
handsomely decorated by a new proprietary ; but
its success was very transient, for in March, 1874,
it was again offered for sale by auction. The fol-
lowing description of the building we quote from
the announcement of the sale : — " The approaches
to the theatre are six in number, and afford ample
and safe means by stone staircases for the rapid
entrance and exit of crowded audiences, while the
water supply is from five hydrants, attached to the
high pressure main service, and three large cisterns.
The interior arrangements are complete, and include
the noble, lofty, and well-ventilated auditorium, of
unique design, rising to a height of 50 feet, deco-
rated in the Italian style, the walls being effectively
lined with brilliant silvered plate-glass, and con-
sisting of twelve large private boxes, 117 stalls, 119
balcony seats, with promenade to hold 250 more,
560 in pit, with promenade affording space for 400
more, and accommodation for 800 to S50 in gallery,
thus affording, at present, accommodation for 2,300
persons, but with a judicious outlay it is calculated
that additional sitting room may be obtained for 500
more visitors, thus giving a total audience of 2,800
persons. There are lofty, spacious, and appro-
priately-decorated refreshment-rooms adjoining the
stalls, balcony, pit, and gallery, the whole being
lighted by 500 jet burners, fixed to the roof, in a
ring 96 feet in circumference." The theatre has
since been converted into a huge " Coffee Palace,"
the stage being retained for concerts and other
entertainments of a popular character, which are
largely patronised by the working classes.

The " Vic " — or by whatever other name this
theatre has been known — has indeed had a
chequered existence, and one sad romantic tale
at least is connected with it. .A Miss Vincent, one
of its managers, married a poor actor ; but his head
was .so turned by his good fortune, that he was
taken straight from the bridal party at the church
doors to a lunatic asylum ; and Miss Vincent died 1
not long afterwards.

" If there was one place of entertainment — an
institution it may be termed — more sacred to I
Londoners in particular, and provincialists in
general," observes a writer in Once a Week (Dec.
27th, 1862), " one more presumably probable to
have withstood the changes of time and fasliion,
less likely to have succumbed to a novel and not
very classical style of dramatic entertainment, that
place most certainly was Astley's. For, though

the remodelled theatre in Westminster Bridge
Road is still associated with the name of its
founder, yet an Astley's without horses is as yet
simply a misnomer, a shadow without a substance."
This famous theatre, or amphitheatre, dates from
the year 17S0. It cannot, of course, be mentioned
in the same category with the patent theatres
of Drury Lane, Covent Garden, and the " little
theatre in the Haymarket ; " and perhaps it is
inferior also in standing to Sadler's Wells, with
which it is almost cotemporary. " Originally,"
writes M. Aljihonse Esquiros, in his " English at
Home," " it was only a circus, started by Philip
Astley, who had been a light horseman in General
Elliott's regiment. . . . Astley's Amphitheatre,
as it is called, though it has undergone various
transformations since the death of its founder, is
still (1862) a celebrated place for equestrian per-
formances, exhibitions of trained ponies, elephants,
dancing the tight rope, and even wild beasts, more
or less tamed. I saw performed there a grand
spectacle, in which appeared a lion that had killed
a man on the night before. This j^ainful circum-
stance, as may be believed, added a feeling of
' sadness and a species of tragic interest to the
performance. The principal actor — I mean the
j lion — expressed no remorse for what he had done
jT the pre\'ious night ; his face was calm and
even benignant ; he performed his part as if
nothing had happened, and he followed the lion-
conqueror (Van Amburgh) tlirough the various
situations of tlie piece."

Mr. Frost, in his " Old Showmen," gives the
following account of the amphitheatre and its
founder : — " Down to the end of the last century
there are no records of a circus liaving appeared at
the London fairs, .\stley is said to have taken his
stud and company to Bartholomew Fair at one
time, but I have not succeeded in finding any
bill or advertisement of the great equestrian in
connection with fairs. Tiie amphitheatre which
iias always borne his name (excci)t during the
lesseeship of Mr. Boucicault, who chose to call it
the Westminster Theatre, a title about as appro-
priate as the Marylebone would be in Shoreditch)
was opened in 1780, and he had previously given
open-air perfonjiances on the same site, only the
seats being roofed over. The enterprising character
of Astley renders it not improbable that he may
have tried his fortune at the lairs when the circus
was closed, as it has usually been during the
summer ; and he may not ha\'e commenced his
season at the amphitheatre until after Bartholomew
Fair, or have given there a performance which he
was accustomed to give in the afternoon at a large

Lambeth. J

MR. PHILIP ASTI.EY.

399

room in Piccadilly, where the tricks of a per-
forming horse were varied with conjuring and
Ombres Chinoises, a kind of shadow-pantomime.
But, though Astley's was the first circus erected in
England, equestrian performances in the open air
had been given before his time by Price and
Sampson. The site of Dobney's Place, at the back
of Penton Street, Islington, was, in the middle of
the last century, a tea-garden and bowling-green,
to which Johnstown, who leased the premises in
1767, added the attraction of tumbling and rope-
dancing performances, which had become so
popular at Sadler's Wells. Price commenced his
equestrian performances at this place in 1770, and
soon had a rival in Sampson, who performed
singular feats in a field behind the ' Old Hats '
public-house. It was not until later, according to
the historians of Lambeth, that Philip Astley ex-
hibited his feats of horsemanship in a field near
the Halfpenny Hatch, forming his first ring with a
rope and stakes, after the manner of the mounte-
banks of a later day, and going round with his hat
after each performance to collect the largesses of
the spectators : a part of the business which, in the
slang of strolling acrobats and other entertainers of
the public in bye-streets and market-places and
on village greens, is called ' doing a mob.'

" This remarkable man was born in 1 742, at New-
castle-under-Lyme, where his father carried on the
business of a cabinet-maker. He received little
or no education — no uncommon thing at that time
— and, having worked a few years with his father,
enlisted in a cavalry regiment. His imposing ap-
pearance, being over six feet in height, with the
proportions of a Hercules and the voice of a
Stentor, attracted attention to him ; his capture of
a standard at the battle of Ensdorff made him one
of the celebrities of his regiment. While serving
in the army, he learnt many feats of horsemanship
from an itinerant equestrian named Johnson, and
often exhibited them for the amusement of his
comrades. On his discharge from the army, being
presented by General Eliott with a horse, he bought
another in Smithfield, and with these two animals
gave the open-air performances in Lambeth which
have been mentioned."

Next to Lord Granby and the Duke of Wellington,
the most popular hero, if we may judge from his
occurrence on sign-boards, was General Eliott, Lord
Heathfield. Larwood ascribes this popularity in
London to a curious cause — the gift of his white
charger " Gibraltar" to Mr. Astley. This horse, he
remarks, performing every night in the ring, and
shining forth in the circus bills, would certainly act
as an excellent "puff" for the general's glory.

Philip Astley received his discharge from the
army in 1766, and exhibited in the country for
about two years, till he considered himself capable
of appearing before a London assemblage of spec-
tators. He then set up what he termed a Riding
School — merely a piece of ground enclosed by a
slight paling — near a pathway that led through tlie
fields from Blackfriars to Westminster Bridge. The
terminus of the South-Western Railway now nearly,
if not exactly, covers the spot. The first bill of
performance that he issued here ran as follows : —
" Activity on horseback of Mr. Astley, Serjeant-
Major in His Majesty's Royal Regiment of Light
Dragoons. Nearly twenty different attitudes will
be performed on one, two, and three horses, every
evening during the summer, at his riding school.
Doors to be open at four, and he will mount at
five. Seats, one shilling ; standing places, six-
pence."

Early every evening Mr. Astley, dressed in full
military uniform, and mounted on his wliite charger,
took up a position at the south end of Westminster
Bridge, to distribute bills and point out with his
sword the pathway through the fields that led to
his riding school. That it was a "school" in reality
as well as name, we learn from the following adver-
tisement : — " The True and Perfect Seat on
Horseback. — There is no creature yields so much
profit as the horse ; and if he is made obedient to
the hand and spur, it is the chief thing that is
aimed at. Mr. Astley undertakes to break in the
most vicious horse in the kingdom, for the road
or field, to stand fire, drums, &c. ; and those in-
tended for ladies to canter easy. His method,
between the jockey and the menage, is peculiar
to himself ; no gendeman need despair of being
a complete horseman that follows his directions,
having eight years' experience in General Eliott's
regiment. For half-a-guinea he makes known his
method of learning (teaching) any horse to lay {sic)
down at the word of conmiand, and defies any one
to equal it for safety and ease."

An information was soon lodged against Mr.
Astley for receiving money from persons witnessing
his feats of horsemanship, when, fortunately for
him, George III. was riding over AVestminster
Bridge on a spirited horse, which proved restive
and unmanageable even by the king, who was an
excellent horseman. Astley happening to see him,
came up, and soon convinced his Majesty of his
skill in the managing of horses : the result was
that he got rid of the information, and in a few
days obtained a licence.

From the first Astley saw that his performances
were deficient in variety ; sc by energetic teaching

406

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambet'.u

he soon made two other excellent performers : his
wife and his white charger. To make the most of
the horse's performance, he interlarded it v/ith some
verses of his own composition. Introducing the
animal, and ordering it to lie down, he would thus
address the audience : —

" My horse lies dead apparent in your sight.
But I'm the man can set the thing to right;
Speak when you please, I'm ready to obey—
My faithful horse knows what I want to say ;
But first just give me leave to move lus foot,
That he is dead is quite beyond dispute.

[Mmiiig the horse's feet.
This shows how brutes by Heaven were designed
To be in full subjection to mankind.
Arise, young Bill, and be a little handy,

^Addressing the horse.
To serve that warlike hero, Marquis Granby.*

\^Horse rises.
When you have seen all my bill exprest.
My wife, to conclude, perforins the rest."

The riding school being uncovered, there were
but few spectators on wet evenings ; but, as a
partial remedy for this drawback, Mr. Astley ran
up a shed, for admission to which he charged two
shillings. He was soon enabled to invest ^200,
as mortgage, on a piece of ground near Westminster
Bridge. Good fortune followed. The Ynortgagor
went abroad, leaving a quantity of timber on the
ground, and, so far as is known, was never heard
of afterwards. .A-bout the same time, too, Astley
found on Westminster Bridge a diamond ring,
worth seventy guineas, that was never claimed by
the loser. With this assistance he erected a new
riding school on the piece of mortgaged ground
ever since associated with his name. Tliis place
was open at the top ; but next the road there was
a wooden edifice, the lower part of which formed
stables, the upper, termed "the long room," holding
reserved seats for the gentry. .\ pent-house partly
covered the seats round the ride ; and the principal
spectators being thus under cover, Astley now adver-
tised to perform " every evening, wet or dry." We
give on page 397 two views of this structure from
Mr. J. T. Smith's " Historical and Literary Curiosi-
ties." The entrance was reached by steps from
the road, and a green curtain covered tlie door,
where Mrs. .Astley stood to take the monej'. To
the whitewashed walls were affixed some pictorial
representations of the performances ; and along
the top of the building were figures of horses, with
riders in various attitudes : these were made of
wood and painted. This new house was opened
about the year 1770, and one of the first bills
delating to it states that " Mr. Astley exhibits, at

• 'I'hc .MatijiiU of Granby, the pc[)u';u' niitit.iry hero of the d.iy.

full speed, the different cuts and guards made use
of by Eliott's, the Prussian, and the Hessian
Hussars. Also the manner of Eliott's charging
the French traops in Germany, in the year 1761,
when it was said the regiment were all tailors."

About the same time, increasing his company,
he was enabled to give more diversity to his
entertainment ; and one of the most successful
sketches which he introduced was that time-
honoured delight of rustics and children, Billy
Buttons Ride to Brentford. Master Astley, then
but five years old, made his first appearance,
riding on two horses. At this period Mr. Astley
used to parade the West-end streets on the days of
performance. He led the procession, in military
uniform, on his white charger, followed by two
trumpeters ; to these succeeded two riders in full
costume, the rear being brought up by a coach, in
which the clown and a " learned pony " sat and
distributed handbills. This, however, did not long
continue, for Mr. Astley soon announced that he
had given up parading, " and never more intends
that abominable practice."

" Whitefield never drew as much attention as a
mountebank does," writes Boswell, in his " Life of
Johnson ; " " he did not draw attention by doing
better than others, but by doing what was strange.
Were Astley to preach a sermon, standing upon
his head on a horse's back, he would collect a
multitude to hear him ; but no wise man would
say he had made a better sermon for that." Again,
Horace Walpole, in a letter to Lord Strafford,
dated September 12th, 1783, writes: — "London,
at this time of year (September), is as nauseous
a drug as any in an apothecary's shop. I could
find nothing at all to do, and so went to Astley 's,
which, indeed, was much beyond my expectation.
I did not wonder any longer that Darius was
chosen king by the instructions he gave to his
horse, nor that Caligula made his horse consul.
Astley can make his dance minuets and horn-
pipes. But I shall not have even Astley now ;
Her Majesty the Queen of France, who has as
much taste as Caligula, has sent for the whole of
the dramatis persona to Paris."

When the London season was over, Astley
removed his troupe to Paris, a practice which lie
continued regularly for many years with great
success. He next brought out a new entertain-
ment, styled in the bills " Egyptian Pyramids ;
or. La Force d'Hertule." It consisted in the
now well-known feat of four men supporting three
others on their shoulders, these again supporting
two more, the last, in their turn, supporting one.
This was long a very favourite and attractive

Lambeth.]

THE " ROYAL GROVE."

401

specracie, and Astley erected a large representa-
tion of it on the south end of the riding school.
He also named his private residence Hercules
House, after this tour de force. The " Hercules "
tavern and gardens, of which we have already
spoken, were so called after this building ; and the
street in Lambeth, now called Hercules Buildings,
derives its name from the same source.

The centre of the riding school being still un-
covered caused many inconveniences ; and Astley,
as early as the year 1772, with a keen eye to
the future, purchased, at a cheap rate, a quantity
of timber that had been used as scaffolding at the
funeral of Augusta, Princess Dowager of Wales.
Later on, in 1780, a further supply of timber was
cheaply obtained by a clever ruse on the part of
Mr. Astley. It had long been the custom at the
close of elections for the mob to destroy and make
bonfires of the hustings ; but Astle)', mingling in
the crowd, represented that as he would give beer
for the timber, if it were carried to his establish-
ment, it would be a more eligible way of disposing
of it than by burning. The hint was taken, and
with the timber thus obtained Astley covered in
and completely remodelled the riding school,
adding a stage, two tiers of bo.xes, a pit, and a
gallery. But as this was the first attempt to
e.xhibit horsemanship in a covered building, and
the bare idea of doing so was at the time
considered preposterously absurd, as a sort of
compromise with public opinion, he caused the
dome-shaped roof to be painted with representa-
tions of branches and leaves of trees, and gave the
new edifice the airy appellation of " The Royal
Grove."

Mr. Astley was now enabled to give his enter-
tainments by candle-light ; and one of the first
pieces that he produced, however successful it may
have been to the treasury, had a curious-sounding
title, from an equestrian point of view ; it figured
in the bills as " A Grand Equestrian Dramatic
Spectacle, entitled Tlie Death of Captain Cook."
The sensation caused by the discoveries and death
of Captain Cook was then fresh in the minds of
the people ; and Astley, seizing upon the principal
events connected with that tragic affair, placed
them on the stage in such a manner that the piece
was most successful, and formed a very important
step in the ladder by which the quondam sergeant-
major was enabled to rise to fame and fortune.

It would appear, however, that Astley soon
had a rival in the field ; for Pennant writes in
1790: — "In this neighbourhood are two theatres
of innocent recreation, ... of a nature unknown
to every other part of Europe — the British hippo-

dromes belonging to Messrs. Astley and Hughes —
where the wonderful sagacity of that most useful
animal, the horse, is fully evinced. While we
admire its admirable docility and apprehension,
we cannot less admire the powers of the riders,
and the graceful attitudes which the human frame
is capable of receiving." He goes on, in most
prosy commonplace, to praise not only equestrian
skill, but also the "art of tumbling " practised here,
as " showing us how fearfully and wonderfully we
are made;" and very sensibly recommending every
Government to indulge its subjects in such scenes
as " preservations from worse employs, and as
rela.xations from the cares of life." We have
already spoken of Hughes's Circus, afterwards the
Surrey Theatre, in our account of the Blackfriars
Road.*

Up to this time Astley had performed annually
in Paris during the winter months ; and it was
partly with the view of giving up these visits to the
French capital that he constructed the " Royal
Grove ; " but as the proprietors of the patent
theatres raised formidable objections to Astley's
winter entertainments and dramatic representations
in Lambeth, he was forced to continue his journeys
to Paris. The breaking out of the French Revo-
lution, however, put an end to Astley's Parisian
performances ; so, building a circus in Dublin, he
carried on his winter campaigns in Ireland ; and
in 1792 he gave up the principal cares and manage-
ment of the business to his son, whose first appear-
ance we have noticed above, and who had by this
time become a handsome young man, as agile and
graceful as Vestris.

In the following year, war having broken out
with France, the Duke of York was sent on the
Continent in command of the British army ; and
Astley, who had made himself very useful in super-
intending the embarkation of the cavalry and
artillery horses, went with his royal highness. His
old regiment, the Fifteenth, was in the same army ;
and Astley, knowing by experience the wants of
actual service, presented the men with a large
supply of needles, thread, buttons, bristles, twine,
leather — everything, in short, requisite in mending
clothes and shoes. He also purchased a large
quantity of flannel, and setting all the females em-
ployed at the " Royal Grove " to work, they soon
made a warm waistcoat for every man of the regi-
ment ; and in a corner of each garment there was
sewn what Asdey termed " a friend in need : " in
other words, a splendid shilling. This patriotic
generosity being duly chronicled in the newspapers

• See flw/f, p. 36S.

40»

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

fLambeth.

of the period, did not, as may readily be imagined,
lessen the popularity of the " Royal Grove," or the
nightly receipts of cash taken at the doors of that
place of entertainment.

In 1 794 Astley was suddenly recalled from the
Continent by the total destruction of the '• Royal

Bonaparte, then First Consul, for compensation;
and, greatly to the surprise of every one, the petition
was favourably received, and compensation granted.
But scarcely had the money been received when
hostilities again broke out, and all Englishmen iii
France were subjected to a long and painful deten

ENTKANCE TO ASTl.KV's TIIEAI KF. I.N 182O.

Grove" and nineteen adjoining houses by fire.
Nothing daunted, he immediately commenced to
rebuild it on a more elegant and extended scale,
and at the following Easter opened the new house,
re-naming it the " Amphitheatre of Arts." At the
peace of Amiens, in 1803, Asthy went to Paris,
and finding that the circus he had erected in tlie
Faubourg du Temple had been used as a barrack
by the Revolutionary Government, he petitioned

tion as prisoners of war. Astley, however, by a
rare combination of cunning and courage, effected
his escape to the frontier, disguised as an invalid
French officer. But, though favoured by fortune
in this bold escape, dismal intelligence awaited his
arrival in Kngland. Mis faithful wife was dead,
and his theatre a smoking ruin, ha\ing been a
i second time burned to tlie ground. 'I'he confla-
, gration 011 tiiis occasion extended to forty other

Lambeth.]

ASTLEY AND HIS MUSICIANS.

403

houses, and caused the death of young Mr. Astley's
mother-in-law, Mrs. Woodhani, and a loss to the
proprietor of ^30,000. Nevertheless, the gallant
old sergeant-major again set to work to repair
the losses he had sustained, and on the following
Easter Monday another theatre was opened, this
time as the " Royal Amphitheatre."

This amphitheatre is described by Sir Richard

Astley, when he first started his riding school,
had no other music than a common drum, which
was beaten by his wife. To this he subsequently
added a fife, the players standing on a kind of
small platform, placed in the centre of the ring;
and it was not till he opened the Royal Grove that
he employed a regular orchestra. Although an
excellent rider, and a great favourite of George III.,

Hi'"'' m^.

INTERIOR OF ASXl.EV'S AMPHITHEATRE IN 1S43.

Phillips at some length, in his " Modern London," ,
published in 1804. "Being rebuilt after being
lately burnt down," he writes, " it stands on tlie
very ground on which Mr. Astley, senior, formerly
exhibited feats of horsemanship and other amuse- |
ments in the open air, the success and profits of
which enabled him afterwards to extend his plan
and to erect a building which, from the rural cast
of the internal decorations, he called the ' Royal
Grove.' In this theatric structure stage exhibitions
were given ; while in a circular area, similar to that •
in the late theatre, horsemanship and other feats of
strength and agility were continued" I

old Astley was an excessively ignorant man. One
day, during a rehearsal a perlormer suddenly ceased
playing. " Hallo ! " cried Astley, addressing the
delinquent ; " what's the matter now ? " " There's
a rest," answered the other. "A rest!" Asdey
repeated, angrily ; " I don't pay you to rest, but to
play ! " Upon another occasion, hearing a manager
complain of the conduct of his actors, Astley said
to him, " Why don't you treat them as I do mine ? "
— alluding, of course, to his horses—"! never give
them anything to eat till after their performance is
done."

Astley always kept a sharp eye on his instru

404

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[LAniheth-

mental performers. One evening he entered the
orchestra in a rage, and asked of the leader why
the trumpets did not play. " This is a pizzicato
passage, sir," was the reply. "A pizzy — what?"
said Astley. " A pizzicato, sir." " Well, I can't
afford to let them be idle; so let the trumpets
pizzicato too ' " Indeed, as an accompaniment to
equestrian exercises, Astley always considered that
loudness was the most desirable quality in music.
And though he ever took care to have an excellent
band, with a well-qualified leader, he, nevertheless,
considered them more as an indispensable drain
on the treasury than a useful auxiliary to the per-
formance. " Any fool," he used invariably to say,
" can handle a fiddle, but it takes a man to manage
a horse ; and yet I have to pay a fellow that plays
upon one fiddle as much salary as a man that rides
upon three horses." Such opinions, freely ex-
pressed, not unfrequently led to angry scenes, of
which amusing anecdotes have been related.

On one occasion, on the first night of a new
piece, as the curtain rose to slow and solemn
music, Astley, who was in the front observing the
effect, overheard a carpenter sawing a board behind
the scenes. " Go," said the manager to Smith, his
rough-rider and aide-de-camp in ordinary, " go and
tell that stupid fellow not to saw so infernally loud."
Smith, fancying that Astley alluded to the music,
went at once to the orchestra, and whispered in
the leader's ear, " Mr. Astley has desired me to
tell you not to saw so infernally loud." " Saw ! "
retorted the enraged musician ; " go back and tell
him this is the very last night I shall saw in his
infernal stables ! " Of course, when the curtain
fell, the musician's wrath was appeased by the
mistake being explained.

At another time, Astley requested his leader to
arrange a itw bars of music for a broad-sword
combat-—" a rang, tang, bang ; one, two, three ;
and a cut sort of thing, you know ! " for thus he
curtly expressed his ideas of what he required.
At the subsequent rehearsal Astley shouted out to
his stage-manager, "Stop! stop! This will never
do. It's not half noisy enough ; we must get
shields ! " simply meaning that the mimic com-
batants should be supplied with shields to clash
against the broad-swords, causing the noise so ex-
citingly provocative of applause from the audience.
But the too sensitive leader, thinking it was his
music that was " not half noisy enough," and it was
Shields, the composer, to whom Astley alluded,
jumped out of the orchestra, and, tearing the score
to pieces, indignantly exclaimed, " Get Shields,
then, as soon as you please, for I am heartily sick
and tired of you ! "

Although uneducated, old Philip Astley was an
enterprising man, with a strong mind and acute
understanding ; he was remarkable for his eccentric
habits and sundry peculiarities of manner ; and he
is said to have built, at difterent periods of his life,
at his owTi cost and for his own purpose, no less
than nineteen theatres. He was the founder of, or,
at all events, one of the earhest performers at the
Olympic ; and there is extant a print of Asdey's
trained horses, &c., performing there. He was
particularly skilful in the training of horses. His
method was to give each horse his preparatory
lesson alone, and when there was no noise or any-
thing to distract his attention from his instructor.
If the horse was interrupted during the lesson, or
his attention withdrawn, he was dismissed for that
dav, and the lesson was repeated on the next.
Wlien he was perfect in certain lessons by himself,
he was associated with other horses whose educa-
tion was further advanced ; and it was the prac-
tice of that great " tamer of horses " to reward the
animals with slices of carrot or apple when they
performed well. In the same manner j\I. Franconi
treated his horses in Paris.

Like Tom Dogget before him, the gallant old
sergeant-major seems to have taken an interest in
aquatic matters ; at all events, we read in Strutt's
"Sports and Pastimes," published in 1800: "Of
late years the proprietor of Vauxhall Gardens and
Astley, the rider, give each of them in the course
of the summer a new wherry, to be rowed for by a
certain number of watermen, two in each boat."

Astley lived to see another peace with France
and to recover his property in Paris ; for he died
on the 20th of October, 1814, in the seventy-third
year of his age, at his own residence in the Fau-
bourg du Temple, and was buried in the well-known
cemetery of Pfere la Chaise. His son, who was
always termed "Young Asdey," died in 1821, in
the same bed, in the same house, and was buried
in the sanre grave as liis father.

After the decease of young Astley the theatre
was carried on by Mr. W. Davis, and appears to
have been called for a time " Davis's Amphi-
theatre " on the play-bills, though with the people-
at large it never ceased to be " Astley's." A melo-
drama, founded on the battle of Waterloo, was then
among its chief attractions. Bonaparte was brought
upon the stage face to face with Wellington, and
made to utter very generous sentiments, and to do
all sorts of generous things, which were loudly
applauded by the galleries. But the public could
not bear to have tlie old associations of the place
disturbed even upon its play-bills, and the ancient
name prevailed.

Lambeth.]

DUCROW.

405

" Astley is a veteran in scenic feats at his amphi-
theatre and pavihon," writes Malcolm in his "Anec-
dotes of London," about 1810. But feats of strength
and agility always shared the popular favour with
horsemanship at Astley's ; and among the most
renowned performers in old Philip's days was Bel-
zoni, who afterwards quitted the circus for the
tombs of the Pharaohs and the Pyramids, and has
left a foremOot renown as an Egyptian explorer, as
we have shown in our account of the British
Museum.* There was another strong man, the
" Flemish Hercules," whose real name was Petre
Ducrow ; he was the father of Andrew, destined in
after years to become the proprietor of the theatre,
and the most daring and graceful performing horse-
man the world has ever seen.

On the secession of Mr. Davis, the theatre was
taken jointly by Messrs. Ducrow and West, under
whose regime it became principally celebrated for
its equestrian and gymnastic performances, panto-
mimes, and grand military spectacles, such as
the Battle of Waterloo, the Burning of Moscow,
&c. In 1843 was exhibited here a sensational
piece, entitled, Tke Crusaders of Jerusalem, on
which the Illustrated London Nczos observes : —
" Here we have a scene from the circle of Astley's,
so long the home of equestrian glory, the pride of
the horsemanship of Ducrow. Ere-while burnt
gloomily to the ground, the phceni.x has now risen
from its ashes, and the ancient palace of quadru-
pedal melo-drama again astounds its admiring in-
mates with examples of the wonderful instincts of
horses, and the not less marvellous prowess of
those biped actors who have trained them into
obedience to the rein. Here is the true Surrey
stud. ' Sell it ! ' once asked the alarmed Ducrow ;
' Never ! ' ' Abandon it ! ' ejaculates Batty ;
' Never ! ' is his reply, ' until children become
mathematicians, and find me the " square " of my
own " circle " while the horses are going round it !'
' Forsake it ! ' shrieks the dear delighted public,
' Nay, never.'

" 'Nay! shout the people with indignant voices,

And the stud echoes with a thousand nays (neighs) ! ' "

Ducrow had been one of Astley's most famous
riders. Mr. Disraeli, in a speech delivered at High
Wycombe in 1836, compared the then Reform
Ministry of Lord Melbourne to this great horseman.
He said, addressing his audience, " I dare say, now,
some of you have heard of M. Ducrow, that cele-
brated gentleman who rides on six horses. What
a prodigious achievement ! It seems impossible ;

• See Vol. IV., p. 531.

but you have confidence in Ducrow. You fly to
witness it ; unfortunately, one of the horses is ill,
and a donkey is substituted in its place. But
Ducrow is still admirable : there he is bounding
along in spangled jacket and cork slippers ! The
whole town is mad to see Ducrow riding at the
same time on six horses ; but now two more of the
steeds are seized with the staggers, and lo ! three
jackasses in their stead ! Still Ducrow persists,
and still announces to the public that he will
ride round his circus every night on his six steeds.
At last, all the horses are knocked up, and now
there are half-a-dozen donkeys. What a change !
Behold the hero in the amphitheatre, the spangled
jacket thrown on one side, the cork slippers on the
other. Puffing, panting, and perspiring, he pokes
one sullen brute, thwacks another, cuffs a third, and
curses a fourth, while one brays to the audience,
and another rolls in the sawdust. Behold the late
Prime Minister and the Reform Ministry ! The
spirited and snow-white steeds have gradually
changed into an equal number of sullen and ob-
stinate donkeys; while Mr. Merryman, who, like
the Lord Chancellor, was once the very life of the
ring, now lays his despairing lengtli in the middle
of the stage, with his jokes exhausted, and his bottle
empty. "

Grimaldi, whose father lived close by Astley's,
in Stangate, was often engaged here as a clown.
On one occasion, Ducrow, while teaching a boy to
go through a difficult act of horsemanship, applied
the whip to him, and observed to Grimaldi, who
was standing by, that it was necessary to make an
impression on the boy. " Yes," said Joe ; " but
you need not make the whacks (wax) so hard."

The amphitheatre, as it stood in Ducrow's time,
is thus described in Allen's " History of Surrey,"
published in 1830: — "The front of the theatre,
which is plain and of brick, stuccoed, stands laterally
with the houses in Bridge Road, the access to the
back part of the premises being in Stangate Street.
There is a plain wooden portico, the depth oi
which corresponds with the width of the pavement.
In front of this portico is the royal arms. Within
the pediment in front of the building is ' Astley's '
in raised letters, and in the front of the portico, in
a similar style, ' Royal Amphitheatre.' Beneath
this portico are the entrances to the boxes and pit ;
the gallery entrance is lower down the road, and
separated from the front of the theatre by several
houses. The boxes are approached by a plain
staircase, at the head of which is a handsome
lobby. The form of the auditory is elliptical, and
is lighted by a very large cut-glass lustre and
chandeliers with bell-lamps ; gas is the medium of

4o6

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth.

illumination used all over the premises. There is
one continued row or tier of boxes round the
auditory, above the central part of which is the
gallery ; and there is a half tier of upper boxes on
each side, vvith slips over them. The floor of the
ride within the auditory is earth and sawdust,
where a ring or circle, forty-four feet in diameter,
is bounded by a boarded enclosure about four feet
in height, the curve of which next the stage forms
the outline of the orchestra, and the remainder
that of the pit, behind which is an extensive lobby
and a box for refreshments. The proscenium is
large and movable — for the convenience of widen-
ing and heightening the stage, which is, perhaps,
the largest and most convenient in London — and is
terminated by immense platforms, or floors, rising
above each other, and extending the whole width
of the stage. These are exceedingly massive and
strong. The horsemen gallop and skirmish over
them, and they will admit a carriage, equal in size
and weight to a mail coach, to be driven across
them. They are, notwithstanding, so constructed
as to be placed and removed in a short space of
time by manual labour and mechanism."

Our readers will not forget that " Astley's," as it
was some half a century ago, forms one of the
" Sketches by Boz," which made the fame, though
not the name, of Charles Dickens as a young man
known to the world. " It was not a ' Royal
Amphitheatre ' in those days," he wrote, " nor
had Ducrow arisen to shed the light of classic
taste and portable gas over the sawdust of the
circus ; but the whole character of the place was
the same : the pieces were the same, the clown's
jokes were the same, the riding-masters were equally
grand, the comic performers equally witty, the
tragedians equally hoarse, and the ' high-trained
chargers ' equally spirited. -Astley's has altered for
the better — we have changed for the worse." And
then he proceeds to give a sketch of the interior
during a performance in the Easter or Midsummer
holidays, and tlie happy faces of '' the children,"
whom " pa " and " ma " have taken to witness the
scene, including " Miss Woolford " and the other
equestriennes.

Thackeray, too, mentions this place in " Tlic
Newcomes." " Who was it," lie writes, " that took
the children to Astley's but Uncle Newcome ? I
saw him there in the midst of a cluster of these
little people, all children together. He laughed,
delighted at Mr. Merriman's jokes in the ring.
He beheld the Battle of Waterloo with breathless
interest, and was amazed — yes, amazed, by Jove,
sir! — at the prodigious likeness of the ])rincipal
actor to the Emperor Napoleon. . . . The little

girls. Sir Brian's daughters, holding each by a finger
of his hands, and younger Masters Alfred and
Edward clapping and hurraing by his side ; while
Mr. Clive and Miss Ethel sat in the back of the box
enjoying the scene. ... It did one good to hear
the colonel's honest laugh at the clown's jokes, and
to see the tenderness and simplicity with which he
watched over this happy brood of young ones."

The third theatre on this spot was burnt down
in June, 1841, when under the management of
Ducrow, who died insane shortly after the fire,
on account of the losses he sustained. He was
buried, as we have already seen, at Kensal Green
Cemeter)',* where a handsome monument is erected
to his memory.

In October of the same year, the vacant site
was taken on a long lease by Mr. \Villiam Batty,
who, in the following year, erected at his own
expense the present amphitheatre, which is much
larger and more substantially built than any of its
predecessors.

■Very naturally, as we have observed at the
commencement of this chapter, the transpontine
theatres have always been the chief homes of the
sensational drama and of eccentric exhibitions :
and this is as true of Astley's as of the rest.
Here, for instance, in 1790, were exhibited Mynheer
Wybrand Lolkes, the dwarf watchmaker of Holland,
and his wife, who was just three times his height ;
but as time has worn on " sensationalism " seems
to have been triumphant. At all events, in the
autumn of 1S64, Miss Adah Menken here played
Mazeppa to crowded houses ; while other theatres,
although possessing very good actors, were all
but deserted. In 1873 ^h*^ theatre was taken by
Mr. Sanger, who had for a short time previously
occupied the Agricultural Hall at Islington for
equestrian performances. Under this gentleman's
rule the title of " Astley's " has disappeared from
the bills as the name of the establishment, and
in its place we have "Sanger's Grand National
Amphitheatre." But Astley's is Astley's still with
the people, and the old associations of the place
still remain, at all events in part, for elephants,
camels, dromedaries, as well as horses, are still
made to appear upon the stage in order to heighten
the spectacular effect. Although the present theatre
was constructed with both stage and circle for
horsemanship, the latter was for a time discontinued,
but the old tradiiion of the place has since been
revived.

M. Esquiros observes pertinently, with reference
to Astley's : " If asked what relation such a theatre

• Sec Vol. v., p. 230.

Lambeth.]

LAMBETH WATER-WORKS.

407

can have to the poetic drama, I reply, that it is
the pecuhar privilege of the great works of the
human mind that they adapt themselves to circum-
stances. Mr. Cooke, one of the latest managers
of Astley's Amphitheatre, had the idea of applying
the resources and pomps peculiar to this theatre to
Shakespeare's historical plays. He accordingly
brought out here Richard III., and, for the first
time, the hump-backed Richard was seen on the
stage, surrounded by his staff on horseback, and
himself mounted on that famous steed, 'White
Surrey,' whose name Shakespeare has immortalised.
The noble animal marched bravely through the
battle, and died with an air of truth that quite
affected the spectators. Encouraged by this success,
Astley's company ne.\t appeared in Henry IV. and
Macbeth. I will not assert that Shakespeare's
plays thus converted into equestrian pieces satis-

fied all artistic conditions ; but when I look at
the moral effect, i cannot but applaud the experi-
ment. Astley's is the theatre of the people ;
here the East-end" [Transpontine?] "workmen,
costermongers, and orange-women, come to seek
a few hours of recreation after the fatigues and
struggles of a rough day's toil. Shakespeare's
plays — decorated rather than well performed, and
hidden by processions and cavalcades, which,
perhaps, denaturalised their character, but which,
after all, were adapted to the instincts of a class of
the population which lives specially on what strikes
its eyes — at any rate allowed some portion of the
poetical horizon to be brought within their view.
In any case, and to say the least, they happily
occupied the place of those dangerous perform-
ances which arouse in man nothing beyond the
feeling of savage strength."

CHAPTER XXXI.
LAMBETH (cw;^««W).— WATERLOO KOAD, &c.

" In populous city pent.
Where houses thick, and sewers, annoy the air." — Milton.

Ecclesiastical Divisions of the Parish of Lambeth — The Lambeth Water-works — The Shot Factory — Belvidere Road — Royal Infirmary for Children
and Women — The General Lying-in Hospital — St. John'^ Church — The Grave of Elliston — The South-Western Railway Terminus — The
New Cut — Sundny Trading — The Victoria Palace Theatre — Dominic Serres — St. Thomas's Church — Lambeth Marsh — Bishop Bonner's
House — Erasmus Knig's Museum — The " Spanish Patriot " — All Saints' Church — The Canterbury Hall — The Bower Saloon — Stangate —
"Old Grimaldi" — Carlisle House — Norfolk House — Old Mill at Lambeth — The London NecropiilU Company — St. Thomas's Hospital —
I'he Albert Embankment — Inundations in Lambeth— Lambeth Potteries and Glass Works— Schools of Art — Manufactures of Lambeth.

By an order of council, made in 1S25, the parish
of Lambeth was divided into five districts — called
respectively St. Mary's, or the old church district ;
Waterloo, or St. John's district ; Kennington, or St.
Mark's ; Brixton, or St. Matthew's ; and Norwood,
or St. Luke's. Of the three last-named districts
we have already treated in the course of our per-
ambulations. Of St. John's district we will now
proceed to speak.

The formation of Waterloo Bridge — which was
completed and opened on the i8th of June,
181 7 — as may be expected, soon made a great
alteration in the appearance of Southern London,
especially in those parts lying between Blackfriars
and Westminster Bridge Roads. Towards the
close of the last century, water-works for Lambeth
were established in the Belvidere Road, on part of
Belvidere Wharf, and what was formerly a garden
on the Narrow Wall. A company — called the
Lambeth Water-works Company — was established
for supplying the parish of Lambeth and parts adja-
cent with water taken from the Thames. They
commenced their operations with a small capital,
but by careful management, and avoiding a large

expenditure at the commencement, their enterprise
was attended with success.

Previous to the formation of the above-mentioned
company, the portion of the metropolis lying south
of the river Thames was first supplied with water
by two wheels erected at London Bridge, near the
Surrey shore, and also by separate works at St.
Mary Overies. These two establishments, both of
considerable antiquity, were combined, under the
name of the Southwark Water-works, in 1822. In
1805, a third company, the Vau.xhall Water- works
Company, was established for supplying the Surrey
side of London. They took their water at first
from the river Efifra, and subsequently from the
Thames, near Vauxhall Bridge.

All the above-mentioned companies, in the first
instance, supplied water just as it came to hand,
without being over-particular as to its condition.
Between the years 1820 and 1830, however, the
attention of the public was attracted to the quality
of the water they were then receiving, and since it
appeared that improvement was needed, the com-
panies, urged by the jwessure from without, tool:
steps to improve it accordingly. The Lambeth

4o8

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lainlielh.

Water-works Company, shortly after 1830, formed
elevated reservoirs at Brixton Hill and Streatham,
for the purpose of the service generally, and main-
taining a constant supply of water in case of fire.
Of late years, however, they have made a great
improvement in the old condition of things ; for,

twenty-three miles above London Bridge, and far
beyond the reach of the tide.

About the same time that the water-works were
established here, a large shot factory was built close
by, together with a fine wet-dock for the loading
and warehousing of goods. Near Waterloo Bridge,

THE HOUSES IN WATERLOO BKIDGK ROAU.

considering the state of the river in the tide-way
objectionable as a source of supply (owing prin-
cipally to the constant agitation now kept up by
the steamboats plying between the bridges, and
the increased ([uantity of sewage ]ioured into the
Thames in the London district), they olnained, in
1848, an Act to enabh; them to abandon their
former source near the Belvidere Roid.and to lake
water from the pure stream of the river at Ditton,

and close to the site of Cuper's Gardens, of which
we have already spoken,* another shot manufactory
was erected about the year 1789 by Messrs. Watts.
The height of the tower of this manufactory is 140
feet, and the shot f;\lls upwards of i 20 feet. These
; shot towers arc conspicuous objects on the southern
side of the Thames near Waterloo Bridge.

* Sac antt, p. 388.

Lambeth.]

ROYAL INFIRMARY FOR WOMEN AND CHILDREN.

409

The Belvidere Road, or Narrow Wall, is an
ancient way, as it is depicted in views of London
dated 1588; as are Vine Street and the Cornwall
Road ; but no houses seem to have been in either
of them, with the exception of a few in and about
Vine Street. From the Belvidere Road, in the
present day, an excellent opportunity is afforded
of noticing the extent of the artificial elevation
given to the road when the approaches to Waterloo

stands, allowed the committee to purchase the
freehold on advantageous terms. In 1875 the
building was eniarged and considerably improved.
The institution, which is supported by donations
and subscriptions, at first received children only,
to whom it afforded relief for diseases of all kinds,
from the time of birth till fourteen years of age,
being open, in cases of emergency, to all first appli-
cations for admission without any recommendation.

VIEW IN THE NEW CUT, 1870.

Bridge were made. Indeed, it hardly needs the
occasional incursions of the river to remind the
water-side inhabitants that this now dense and
widely-spreading region was once a marsh, and
even a flat swampy level, scarcely raised above the
surface of the Thames.

One of the first institutions which attracts our
attention as we pass down the Waterloo Road is the
Royal Infirmary for Children and Women, which
has stood here for three-quarters of a century.
It was originally established at St. Andrew's Hill,
in the City, in 1816, but was removed to Lambeth
in 1823. The Duke of Kent assisted in founding
the infirmary, and the Queen has long been an
annual subscriber ; and the Prince of AVales, on
whose estate as Duke of Cornwall the hospital
275

There were in 1893 fifty beds ai-^d cots in the
hospital, and an asphalte playground on the roof
for convalescent patients. During the preceding
year 509 in-paiients (children) were received, and
6,700 out-patients (women and children) treated.
The receipts were ;^3,5So, £i,4^° being
annual subscriptions; the expenditure was £3,^60.
In 1 87 7 the Princess Louise (Marchioness
of Lome) formally re-opened the infirmary on the
completion of the enlargement mentioned above,
when one of the wards — hitherto known as the
" Hamilton Ward,'' from having been founded at
the expense of Mr. Francis Hamilton, one of the
vice-presidents — was, at the request of that gentle-
man, re-named the " Louise Ward." There are
now six wards in all. The patients all pay some-

4to

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

rLarulielh.

thing towards their treatment. The out-patients
pay id. for each visit, and the parents of the
in-patients give 6d. a week. In some cases these
sums are provided by friends connected with the
hospital. This hospital, we need scarcely add, is
situated in the midst of one of the poorest districts
of London, and provides comfortable beds, good
food, kind nursing, and medicine for sick children
and women, who cannot get these things at home,
and, therefore, it is an institution well deserving of
the heartiest support.

Another invaluable institution in this neighbour-
hood— a sister hospital to the Magdalen — is the
General Lying-in Hospital in York Road. It was
instituted in 1765, mainly through the e.xertions of
Dr. John Leake, an eminent writer on the diseases
of women, and was incorporated in 1830. The
hospital was formerly in the A\'estminster Bridge
Road, near Marsh Gate, from which, in 1829, it
was removed to its present situation, where a neat
square building of white brick, ornamented with
stone, with a handsome receding portico of the
Ionic order, has been erected. The hospital was
principally intended as an asylum " for the wives
of poor industrious tradesmen and distressed house-
keepers, who, either from unavoidable misfortunes,
or from the burden of large families, are reduced
to want, and rendered incapable of bearing the
expenses incident to the lying-in state, and also
for the wives of indigent soldiers and seamen ; but
the governors, in the spirit of true philanthropy,
have extended the benefits of the institution to
unmarried females, restricting this indulgence, how-
ever, to the first instance of misconduct."

Pennant enumerates the Lying-in Hospital, the
Asylum, or House of' Refuge, and the Magdalen,
as admirable institutions within a short distance of
each other, and together helping to relieve the
sufferings of the weaker sex.

Lower down the Waterloo Road, on the east
side, and nearly facing the terminus of the South-
western Railway, stands St. Jolin's Church, which
was built in 1823-4. The site of this church
having been a swamp and horsc-ponil, an artificial
foundation of piles had to be formed before any
])ortion of the superstructure could be raised.
The edifice, which is anything but ecclesiastical in
character, is built of brick, with stone dressings ;
the ])lan of the basement comprehends not only
the church, but a terrace in front of it — the former
is a parallelogram, the latter forms a transept at the
west end, the whole of the area being laid out in
catacombs. 'J"he terrace was rendered necessary
to fill up the space between the church and the
ioad, which is considerably raised to meet the

level of Waterloo Bridge. The western front of
the building is occupied with a Grecian portico of
the Doric order, sustaining an entablature, cornice,
and pediment, the frieze being ornamented with
chaplets of myrtle. The steeple is situated above
the centre of the front : it consists of a tower and
spire, both of which are square in their plan ; the
storey above the clock-dial is of the Ionic order.
The obelisk on the summit is crowned by a stone
ball and cross. The interior of the church is not
divided into nave and aisles, according to the usual
plan ; the piers between the windows are orna-
mented with pilasters, and the ceiling is horizontal
and panelled.

The sides and west end of the church is occupied
by a gallery, sustained on Doric columns. The
organ was the gift of Mr. Lett, an inhabitant of the
district, who was also the donor of the site of the
church. In the centre aisle is a font of white
marble, brought from Italy, and presented to the
church by the Rev. Dr. Barrett, the first incumbent.
The east end is ornamented with a handsome
stained-glass window, and the reredos is richly
gilt and painted in arabesque.

St. John's Church contains one memorable
tomb, that of Elliston, the comedian, whose name
is so intimately connected, as we have seen, with
transpontine performances. Those who have read
Charles Lamb's reminiscences of Elliston, in his
" Ellistoniana," and his address " to the shade of
Elliston,'' will not need to be reminded how great
an actor he was, though in the main a comedian.
He was well educated, and never forgot the know-
ledge of Latin that he acquired during his youth.
" Great wert thou," writes Charles Lamb, " in thy
life, Robert William Elliston, and not lessened in
thy death, if report speaks truly, which says thou
didst direct that thy mortal remains should repose
under no inscription but one of pure Latinity." He
was born in Bloomsbury in 1774, and was educated
at St. Paul's Scb.ool, being originally intended for
the University. In his boyhood, however, he
chanced to be brought into contact with Charles
Mathews, and both being smitten with a love of
the drama, made their first efilbrt on private boards,
on the first floor of a pastry-cook's shop in Bedford
Street, Covent Garden, along with a daughter of
Flaxman, the sculptor. Having played in public
at Bath, York, and other towns in the provinces,
Elliston made his first api)earance in London at
the Haymarket in 1706. He was a most joyous
and light-hearted man, exiellcnt alike in tragedy
and comedy, and unrivalled in farce ; and he
enjoyed a long lease of popular favour. We have
aheaily mentioned liis conneclion wiUi tlie Olympic

Lambeth. "|

THE SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY TERMINUS.

411

and the Surrey Theatres.* In his capacity as
manager he would often favour the audience with
a rich specimen of the grandiloquent style — a
style immortalised by Charles Lamb in one of his
delightful Essays. He died in 1831.

The churchyard contains some fine plane-trees ;
and since 1876 it has been laid out as a
garden, and made available for the pur[)Oses of
recreation.

Neaily opposite St. John's Church is the London
terminus of the South-Western Railway, together
with the Waterloo Junction station of the South-
Eastern Railway. The South-Western terminus in
itself is spacious, but makes no pretence to archi-
tectural effect. The South-Western Railway was
originally called the London and Southampton
Railway, and had its terminus for several years at
Nine Elms, Vauxhall. About thirty miles were
open for traffic in 1838, the line being extended
in the following year to Basingstoke, and in 1S40
to Southampton. The extension from Vauxhall
to the Waterloo Road was effected in 1848, and
although only a trifle over two miles in length, cost
;^8oo,ooo. From Waterloo Road to Nine Elms
the line is carried through what is — or, at all
events, was at one time — one of the dirtiest parts
of London, upon a series of brick arches, which
were considered marvels of construction when they
were built. From the Waterloo Road, the ap-
proaches to the booking-offices are by inclined
roads. Of the station itself little or nothing need
be said, further than that it has been so much
enlarged and altered at different times since its
hist erection, that it now covers a large space ot
ground, and is a scene of great confusion. It is con-
nected with the South-Eastern Railway by a bridge.
From this station trains run at frequent intervals to
Richmond, Hampton Court, Windsor, &c. ; also to
Winchester, Portsmouth, Southampton, Weymouth,
Salisbury, Exeter, Plymouth, and other large towns
in the south-west and west of England. " The
advantages of this metropolitan station," writes
Bradshaw, in his " London Guide," " have been
very great, both to mere pleasure-seekers and men
of business ; and when about to undertake a journey
on this most tempting and trustworthy of all the
railways, it is felt to be something akin to magic
to be wafted from the very heart of London to the
verge of Southampton Water in less time than one
could walk from here to Hampstead ; or enabled
to enjoy the enchanting scenery of Richmond
and Hampton Court for an expenditure of the
same sum that would be absorbed in the most

• See Vol. III., p. 35 ; and ante, p. 370.

moderate indulgence at a gloomy tavern in town."
A few minutes' ride on this railway will show the
traveller as much as he will care to see of this
crowded and rather squalid neighbourhood, and
speedily carry him into the fields, out of the smoke
'of London.

The New Cut, which runs from the A\'aterloo to
the Blackfriars Road, at a short distance southward
of the railway terminus, is chiefly remarkable for
the number of its brokers' shops, which line both
sides of the way. The thoroughfare, on Sunday
mornings, has somewhat the character of its rival
near Aldgate, formerly called Petticoat Lane ;t and
it has furnished plenty of materials to Henry May-
hew for his sketches of " London Labour and the
London Poor." The following sketch of the New
Cut on a Sunday morning is taken from a pamphlet,
entitled "Sabbath Life in London," published in
I 1874. The writer, a Scotchman, after narrating
what met his gaze in his rambles through Petticoat
Lane, Leather Lane, and Seven Dials, proceeds : —
I " Crossing one of the bridges, the same disregard
of the day of rest is exhibited on the Surrey side of
the Thames ; and from London Bridge to Vauxhall
Bridge, a distance of three miles, there is an almost
continuous line of streets in which business is con-
ducted as on other days. In this respect the New
Cut takes a prominent part, and the thorough-
fare is thronged with women having their aprons
full of provisions. The manner in which these
untidy dames patronise the ginger-beer stalls indi-
cates pretty plainly the dealings they had with the
I publican on the previous evening ; and if that
, is not enough, a plance at the many bruised and
! blackened faces will show, certainly not the joys,
but the buffetings of matrimonial life. Were such
characters to show their figures in any town in
Scotland on a ' Sabbath ' morning, loaded with
articles for the dinner-table, they would cause as
much consternation as if a legion of Satanic forces
were let loose, and the people, in their deep-rooted
regard for the day, would compel these wanton
Sunday desecrators to beat a speedy retreat from
public indignation. There is something noble in
accounts given of the women in America besieging
the public-houses, emptying the destroying liquors
into the sewers, and turning the barrel-bellied land-
lords into tlie streets. Should ever a civil war befall
this country, may it be a rising of Good Templar
Amazons against brewers, distillers, and their
satellites the publicans. Would that the American
spirit could be infused into the mass of London
wives and mothers, not by an exhibition of their

t See Voi. II., p. 164.

412

OLD AND NEV/ LONDON.

[Lambeta

physical determination, but by a display of their
moral power and example, by absenting themselves
altogether from the dram-shop, leaving the publican
to find a better and more certain field of invest-
ment. On my way to Lambeth I passed the door
of the Bower Theatre, and my attention was
attracted by the play-bill, which announced these
pieces : — ' Innocent or Guilty,' ' Charley Wagg, or
, the Mysteries of London,' and the ' Hand of
Death.' This theatre is nightly crowded with
boys, the children of the Sunday-trading women I
have alluded to. There can be no doubt that
such ' penny gafts ' have a tendency to vitiate the
minds of the rising generation, as has also much of
the cheap literature which is issued from the press.
There are parties in the literary and dramatic world
who live upon vice and corruption ; and many
of the penny publications, ostensibly got up for
boys, and profusely illustrated, are little better than
guides to the prison and the penitentiary. Whilst
musing on the base purposes to which the drama
is too often devoted in this mone}'-grasping age,
I was surprised to notice, in large letters, the title
of a piece now being performed at the Adelphi,
' The Prayer in the Storm, or the Thirst for Gold.'
Just as well might the publican designate his
premises ' The House of Prayer,' ' The Gate of
Heaven,' or ' The Celestial Abode.' The legitimate
drama has many beauties, and serves many useful
purposes ; but when it goes beyond the teachings
of morality, and encroaches on the domains of
religion, it deserves to be treated with reprobation
and contempt."

The Sunday trading in the " Cut " is continued
westward through Lambeth Lower Marsh towards
the Westminster Bridge Road, so that the whole
distance from the last-named road to Surrey Chapel
presents what Dr. Johnson would have called "an
animated appearance."

The regular habitues of the place may be divided
into two classes — the various dealers and vendors,
mostly of " perishable articles," with their regular
customers, on the one hand ; and on the other the
dealers in miscellaneous goods, and the hundreds
of men and boys of the working, and what some
people call the " dangerous " classes — irregular
customers — among whom may be seen the real
British " navvy," as good a specimen of humanity
after his kind as one need wish to look upon,
whose Sunday morning costume differs only from
his week-day in having his boots unlaced. To
such as these the New Cut is a Sunday morning;
rendezvous and promenade, and they amuse them-
selves by sauntering u]) and down the half-mile of
roadway, pipe in mouth, and listening to the

oratorical displays of the vendors of every imagin-
able kind of wares, useful and ornamental, on
either side of the street.

A writer in the Daily A'ews, in January, 1872,
gives us the following sketch of a Sunday morn-
ing in the New Cut : — " On entering the Lower
Marsh from the Westminster Road, on the right-
hand side are the Lambeth Baths, in which a
temperance meeting is held every Sunday morning.
A platform at one end holds the speakers and
singers, for, to enliven the proceedings, between
each speech some one sings a song to a lively tune,
accompanied by a piano, and the audience — part of
which is seated in the spacious bath, from which
the water has been drawn off — join in the chorus.
There is a continual flow of in-comers and out-goers,
and it may be hoped that the zealous preachers of
temperance now and then really capture and reform
some wretched drunkard, who perhaps ' came m
to scof,' but remained to listen to and profit by
the retailed experiences of the speakers, many of
whom are by no means asliamed to compare their
present good health and comparatively full pockets
to their former broken-down state and poverty,
which was the result of drink. The sliops in the
Cut may be stated in round numbers to be about
220, of which about one-half were open for business,
the other half closed, on Sunday morning ; while
the stalls and barrows of the costermongers proper,
that is, dealers in ' perishable articles ' (and perhaps
including the vendors of the poor man's luxuries —
nuts and oranges — which keep to the line of the
gutters), might be reckoned at about 120; while
those of the vendors of non-perishable articles and
the itinerant sellers of all kinds of commodities
might be stated at a somewhat less figure. Among
the latter class may be found the familiar figure of
the old razor-paste man ; he is to be met with in
almost every part of the metropolis during the
week, but he is part of the Cut on Sunday. Then
there is the seller of knives at half-price ; of slippers,
braces, boots and shoes, and all kinds of wearing
apparel, after its kind. In front of a chemist's
shop a heart)--looking man is retailing sar.saparilla
from a huge bottle, which he holds under the stump
of his left arm (in fact, all that is left), at id. per
I glass. It will ' cure more disorders than Holloway's
pills and ointment, chase away headaches and
nervous debilil)-, jiurify the blood, and bring flesh
on the bones. I'lom the nunihers \\ho in the
course of a few minutes paid for their draught and
drank it like men, we can ijuite believe the state-
j ment made by the vendor that he sold more than
a thousand glasses ev;ry .Sunday morning. . . .
, Sufferers from 'the ills tks flesh is heir to' are well

Lambeth.]

THE NEW CUT.

413

cared for in the New Cut. A penny stick of some
green substance, like sealing-wax, will make many
scores of plasters on brown paper, warranted to
cure warts, bunions, and corns. Three plasters
applied for three successive days will eradicate
the worst of corns, but the pain will vanish in
five minutes after the first application. Blisters,
already spread, can be bought by the yard ; and
those suffering from toothache can have the offend-
ing ivory extracted then and there. The dental
professor wears a vehet cap, ornamented with
about a hundred long-fanged double-teeth, set in
rows, and stands behind a tray, on which are
displayed some half-dozen villanous-looking in-
struments of extraction, one of which, eminently
terrible, seemed a cross between a pair of lump-
sugar nippers and a pair of tongs. In front were
penny bottles of tincture, warranted to cure ear-
ache, rheumatism, chilblains, and all kinds of
' rualgias.' The volubility of this professor was
extraordinary in his endeavours to dispose of his
tinctures, but he was far surpassed by the torrents
of eloquence which rushed continuously from the
' doctor ' a little higher up, who sold a large box
of pills and a half-pint botde of sarsap.-.rilla for the
modest sum of threepence. The ' doctor ' — really
a clever fellow — did an enormous trade, amjily
compensating him for his unsparing expenditure of
eloiiuence and breath. The result of his medicine
on the scores who purchased it will be much better
felt than described ; but it is certain that his
patients have unlimited faith in iiim and his |
therapeutics, which he illustrated occasional!)' with
a human skull, alleged to be that of an illustrious
murderer, cut into sections, and parts of which
seemed to work on hinges." The writer then
proceeds to describe the bird-dealers, and the
sellers of groundsel and chickweed ; the dog-
fanciers, with their true " doormats " and " mop- '
heads " under their arms ; the purveyors of cheap
pictures, ornaments, and toys, &c. ; the piled
heaps of dirty women's clothing, upper and under,
which female auctioneers are selling by a process
known as a " Dutch auction." " .Sunday morning,"
continues the writer, " is the weekly harvest time
of many of the local shops, notably that of a baker,
who displays on a slab outside most tempting
jam tarts and puffs, purchased eagerly by juveniles !
who are the fortunate possessors of a halfpenny.
A hot plum composition, a kind of compromise .
between cake and pudding, sold in large blocks,
'meets with a ready demand at fair prices,' and at
its current value must be ■ very filling.' Two rival
vendors of this compost at opposite sides of the
street created much amusement by chafting one

another across the higiiway, and assuring intending
purchasers that ' this is the right shop ; ' however,
the owner of a most stentorian voice, for which
natural gift he ought to be thankful, gets the most
custom, according to the rule which seems to
obtain in this transpontine market, that the most
demonstrative and vociferous merchants do the
best trade. There is much good humour, a little
rough horse-play, and some bad language in this
unwashed crowd of buyers, sellers, and idlers;
more of the former and less of the latter than
might be expected, which may possibly be attributed
to the fact that the public-houses do not open till
one o'clock. A few minutes before that hour the
police nod the word, and with almost the qun?kness
of a transformation scene at the theatre, the coster-
mongers and their barrows, the itinerant traders
and their wares, disappear down the many side
streets, and this mercantile Pandemonium is then
hushed. Idlers gradually disperse, and hot dinners
— baked meat and potatoes, the usual wasteful disli
of the English poor — issue from various bakers' and
other shops, reminding even those who unhappily
will not profit by it that this is the poor man's
dinner hour. By half-past one the Cut has resumed
its ordinary aspect, and has become as dull and
quiet, and perhaps as ' respectable,' as Bedford or
Tavistock Squares."

At the corner of the New Cut and \\'aterloo
Road stands the Victoria Palace Theatre, which we
h.ave described in the preceding chapter. One of
the few subscribers that came forward to back the
scheme for building the Victoria (or, as it was at
first called, the Coburg) Theatre, was one .Serres, a
marine painter, whose name became known to the
world through a little piece of Court scandal. He
made interest with Prince Leopold of Saxe Coburg,
and the Princess Charlotte, in order to procure a
licence for its establishment. " Dominic Serres and
his two daughters," observes a writer in a newspaper,
in January, 1837, "lived in a first floor, next to the
fire-engine station, opposite to the stage-door of
the Victoria Theatre. One died there : she was a
short, dumpy woman ; the younger was terribly
deaf Their niece, Johanna, daughter of J. T.
Serres, and Olivia, Duchess of Lancaster, married,
and has children living at the second or third
house in Gibson Street. The surviving aunt has
since gone to live with her." The attempt of the
Serres family to obtain recognition of the title of
Duchess of Lancaster was brought before a court
of law, and finally exposed in 1870, as our readers
will remember.*

* See Vol. IV., p. 567.

414

OLD x\ND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth.

On the west side of the Waterloo Road, facing
the Victoria Theatre, are St. Thomas's National and
Infant Schools, where several hundreds of the rising
generation are educated. A sjiecial service for
policemen has been held here, on stated days, for
some time. This building was for some years used

in addition to the west gallery. The church is
built of brick, and was consecrated in 1857.

In the map of Ralph Aggas, published in tiie
second year of Elizabeth's reign, Lambeth Marsh
is open country, and a little dog running at full
pace up and down its open space seems to be its

nisHOP hOjNnkr's house in 1780.
[From an Original Drawing in the Guildhall Libia ly.)

as a temporary church before the erection of St.
Thomas's Church, in the Westminster Road, nearly
facing St. f'ieori,'e Cathedral. St. Thomas's Cluirch
was built from tiie design of Mr. S. S. Teulon, and, as
originally designed, exhibited a modification of the
fine Dominican church at Ghent ; but the estimates
having been cut down, it has now merely the ap-
pearance of a long and broad parallelogram, with
side aisles of two bays towards tlie east, for galleries,

only inhabitant, and " monarch of all he surveys."
Even in the "new plan" engraved for Northouck's
"History of London" in 1772, a single row of
houses and two or three detached buildings appear
down tiie centre of the Marsh, together with a few
on the south side ; otherwise, all the surround-
ing districts, as far as Vine Street and Narrow
Wall to the north-west, and Rroad Wall and Angel
Street to the cast, are marked oft' as " fields." In

Lambeth.]

BISHOP BONNER'S HOUSE.

415

this map, Lambeth Marsh terminates at about the
point where the Waterloo Road now passes it, and
it is continued westward as far as Stangate Street.
Parsons, the actor, hved at a small cottage in the
Vauxhall Road, which he called Frog Hall, in
allusion to the " Marsh," near which it stood.

In Queen Elizabeth's time this marsh does not
seem to have been a desiralile place to live in, fur
it is coupled l.iy Ben Jonson with " Whitefriara "

July, 1823, when it was taken down, an ancient
fragment of a building called Bonner's House,
though much mutilated and altered from what it
appeared a few years before. This is traditionally
said to have been part of a residence of Bishop
Bonner, which formerly extended a considerable
way fartlier in front. "There is nothing in the
liistory of this place," adds Allen, " to prove that it
I belonged to any of the Bishops of London, except

DRUG MILL OF THE APOTHECARIES COMPANY. (&<-• page 418.)

and " Pickt Hatch," as a residence of dissolute
characters. In Hone's "Year-Book" we read timt '
"in Lambeth Marsh Mr. W. Curtis, the eminent
botanical writer, formed the largest collection of '
British plants ever brought together into one
place ; " but the badness of the air drove him to
more spacious grounds at Brompton.

In Lambeth Marsh, too, was the Lyceum of
Erasmus King, the eccentric coachman, and of
Cards, the rival of the eminent natural philosopher.
Dr. Desaguliers. From the force of his master's
example, though he had received only the poorest
education, he came to read lectures and to exhibit
experiments in physics publicly.

We learn from Allen's " History of Surrey," that
in Lambeth Marsh stood, until the beginning of

an entry of an ordination in Strype's ' Memorials
of Cranmer,' which mentions the same to have
taken place ' in the chapel of my lord the Bishop
of London in the Lower Marsh, Lambeth.' " In
this instance Strype was in error, and, as he sub-
sequently acknowledged, had inadvertently written
London instead of Rochester. " The ordination,"
says Mr. Tanswell, in his " History of Lambeth,"
"really took place at La Place, the house of John
Hilsey, Bishop of Rochester. The Bishops of
London never had a residence in Lambeth."

In Lower Marsh is the " Spanish Patriot," an
inn which owes its sign to the temporary excite-
ment which arose in 1833, at the time of our pro-
posed intervention in the question of the Spanish
succession.

4i6

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth,

At the corner of York Street, with its principal |
entrance in the Lower Marsh, stands All Saints'
Church, which was erected in 1844-45, from the
designs of Mr. William Rogers, at a cost of about ,
;£'6,4oo. It is in the Anglo-Norman style of,
architecture. The principal entrance opens into
a long corridor from a recessed arch, decorated
with zigzag and other mouldings, wrought in the ^
basement storey of a well-proportioned campanile
tower of three storeys, surmounted by a slender
spire. The interior consists of a nave and aisles,
terminated by a recessed angular chancel, which is
lit in a subdued manner by a semi-dome skylight 1
filled with stained glass. Attached to the church,
in York Street, are All Saints' National and Infant '
Schools, which were opened for the recei)tion of
children in 1S54.

Crossing Westminster Bridge Road, we enter
the narrow winding thoroughfare called Lambeth
Upper Marsh. Here, on the left side, between
the Westmin3ter Bridge Road and Stangate Street, ■
stands the Canterbury Hall, the first music-hall
established in the metropolis, which was opened ]
by Mr. Charles Morton in the year 1S49. "The
Upper Marsh, Westminster Road," writes Mr. J.
E. Ritchie, in the " Night-side of London," " is
what may be called a low neighbourhood. It
is not far from Astley's Theatre. Right tlirough
it runs the South-M'estern Railway, and every-
where about it are planted pawnbrokers' shops,
with an indescribable amount of dirty second-hand
clothes, and monster gin-palaces, with unlimited '
plate-glass and gas-lights. Go along there at what
liour you will, these gin-palaces are full of ragged
children, hideous old women, and drunken men.
The bane and the antidote are thus side by side. ,
. . . . Let us pass on. A well-lighted en-
trance attached to a public-house indicates that we
have reached our destination. We proceed up a
few stairs, along a passage, lined with iiandsome
engravings, to a bar, wJiere we pay sixpence if we
take a seat in the body of the hall, and ninepence '
if we ascend into the gallery. We make our way ,
leisurely along the floor of the building, which is 1
really a handsome hall, well lighted, and capable
of holding 1,500 persons; the balcony extends
round the room in the form of a horse-shoe. At
tiie opposite end to that which we enter is the plat-
form, on which are placed a grand piano and a
harmonium, on which the performers play in the
intervals when the professional singers have left
the stage. The chairman sits just beneath them.
It is dull work to him ; but there he must sit,
drinking, and smoking cigars, from seven till twelve
o'clock The room is crowded, and

almost every gentleman present has a pipe or a
cigar in his mouth. Let us look around us. Evi-
dently the majority present are respectable me-
chanics or small tradesmen, with their wives and
daughters and sweethearts. Now and then you
see a midshipman, or a few fast clerks and ware-
housemen. . . . Every one is smoking, and
every one has a glass before him ; but the class
that come here are economical, and chiefly confine
themselves to pipes and porter. The presence of
ladies has also a beneficial effect ; I see no signs
of intoxication. I may question tiie worth of some
of the stanzas sung, and I think I may have heard
sublimer compositions; but, compared with many
of the places frequented by both sexes in London,
Canterbury Hall is, in my opinion, a respectable
place ; though, to speak seriously, I have my doubts
whether all go home quite sober."

The " Canterbury Arms," a public-house still
existing in " the Marsh," was the foundation of the
Canterbiuy Hall. Here, at the time when Mr.
Morton took possession of it, was held a " sing-
song," or harmonic meeting, in a room above the
bar. Mr. Morton gradually expanded this style of
conviviality into a musical entertainment, which,
composed of "operatic selections," together with
sentimental and comic singing by some competent
artistes, soon became a great success. Mr. John
Caulfield was the chairman of the concerts, and
Mr. Ferdinand Jonghmans the musical director,
and the talent was the best that could be procured ;
some of the salaries reaching ^,"30 a week. From
time to time enlargements have been made in the
building, and these successive enlargements have
always been carried out without a suspension of
the entertainments. The hall, as it now stands,
will seat some 2,000 persons in its pit, stalls, and
balcony.

A\'ith respect to the appellation of the "Canter-
bury Hall " — a sign, by the way, originally given to
the adjoining tavern in consequence of its con-
tiguity to the archiepiscopal palace, close by — it
was actually "The Canterbury Hall and Fine Arts'
Gallery," for one ronsiiicuous feature in the general
attraction, arising out of Mr. Morton's penchcint
for and sound judgment of pictures, was a large
collection of paintings — some of them by the best
modern artists — in a Fine Arts' Gallery, running
parallel to and communicating with the Music
Hall. Punc/i called this Fine Arts' Gallery " The
Royal Academy over the Water." Still, the Canter-
bury Hall, as we have stated above, was the parent
of the present music-hall form of entertainment,
and, when it occupied the ground alone, was fre-
quented by large numbers from the West-end.

Lambeth.]

CARLISLE HOUSE.

417

The present .structure, an entirely new building,
has been constructed upon the most approved
principles with regard to ventilation and acoustic
properties ; and it has a large and convenient
entrance in the Westminster Bridge Road.

Close by the Canterbury Hall, near the corner
of Stangate Street, is the '" Bower Saloon," with its
theatre and music-room, which Mr. J. Timbs speaks
of as being " a pleasure haunt of our own time."

Stangate Street formerly numbered among its
residents no less a personage than Signer Grimaldi,
the father of the Grimaldi who made " Mother
Goose" immortal. "Old Grimaldi," as he was
generally called, in common with most of those
persons who exhilarate the spirits of others, was of
a melancholy, nervous temperament, a ghost-seeker,
and a believer in all sorts of marvellous absurdities.
He often wandered over the then dreary region of
St. George's Fields with an old bibliopolist, de-
tailing and discussing all the superstitious legends
of Germany and Great Britain. A very jolly party
used then to assemble at a tavern in St. James's
Market, and, to dispel Grimaldi's gloom, a friend
took him thither. He soon left the room, saying,
" They laughed so much it made him more melan-
choly than ever." His bookselling friend lent him
a book called " The Uncertainty of the Signs of
Death," which so e.xcited his mind with a fear of
being buried alive, that in his will he directed that
his daughter should, previous to his interment,
sever his head from his body. The operation was
actually performed in the presence of the daughter,
though not by her hand. As a proof of the mor-
bidity of the signer's mind upon the subject of
interment, he was wont to wander to different
churchyards, as Charles Bannister said, to pick out
a dry spot to lie snug in. He originally invented
the celebrated skeleton scene, since so common in
pantomimes ; and first represented the " Cave
of Petrifaction," in which, when any one entered,
he was supposed to be struck at once and for ever
into the position in which he stood when his un-
hallowed foot first profaned the mysterious locality.
So prone are many minds to jest in public with the
terrors which render their lives burdensome to them
in private.

Carlisle Lane, which runs from Westminster
Bridge Road to the eastern wall of Lambeth Palace,
keeps in remembrance Carlisle House, which stood
here between the thirteentli and si.vteenth cen-
turies. It was originally the palace of the Bishops
of Rochester, and was then called La Place ; but
afterwards becoming the property of the bishopric
of Carlisle, it was called Carlisle House. Down to
the year 1827, the site of the mansion was occupied

by Carlisle House Boarding School. Early in the
twelfth century, Baldwin, Archbishop of Canter-
bury, attempted to found a college or monastery
for secular canons on this spot ; but tliis attempt
appears to have been unsuccessful : only a chapel,
which was dedicated to St. Stephen and St. Thomas,
having been erected. Baldwin's successor, Hubert
Walter, entered into a treaty with the Prior of
Rochester (the then owner of the land) for the
whole manor of Lambeth, which was exchanged to
him, he granting to the bishops of that see, out of
it, a piece of ground next to the above-mentioned
chapel, in order to erect an occasional residence
as their town-house. On this ground Gilbert de
Glanville, Bishop of Rochester, erected a house for
himself and his successors, who occasionally resided
there till the sixteenth century. Haymo de Hethe,
who was promoted to the see of Rochester in 13 16,
rebuilt the house, which was subsequently called
La Place, till the year 1500, after which the bishops
dated from their "house in Lambeth Marsh." The
last Bishop of Rochester who dwelt in this mansion
was Dr. John Fisher. He was nearly poisoned by
Richard Roose, his cook, who infused a deadly
poison into some soup which he was making, and
which, as a matter of fact, caused the deaths of
seventeen members of the household, and of two
poor people who had gone to the house for charity.
An appropriate punishment was devised for this
murderous cook, for he was "attainted of high
treason, and boiled to death in Smithfield."

Li 1540 Bishop Heath conveyed this house to
the Crown, in exchange for a house in Southwark.
Henry VHI. granted it to Robert Aldrich, Bishop of
Carlisle, and his successors, in exchange for certain
premises in the Strand, on the site now occupied
by Beaufort Buildings. In 1647 it was sold by the
Parliament to Matthew Hardyng ; but on the Re-
storation it reverted to the see of Carlisle. " From
this date," writes Mr. Tanswell, in his " History of
Lambeth," " its history exhibits some remarkable
vicissitudes. On part of the premises a pottery
was established, which existed in George II. 's
time ; but going to decay, the kilns and a curious
Gothic arch were taken down, and the bricks used
for filling the space and other defects in the wall.
It was subsequently opened by one Castledine as
a tavern, and became a common stew ; and on
his demise it was occupied by Monsieur Froment, a
dancing master, who endeavoured to get it licensed
by the sessions as a public place of entertainment,
but ineftectually, in consequence of the opposition
of Archbishop Seeker. It was next tenanted as a
private dwelling ; and was afterwards converted
into an academy and boarding-school for young

4l8

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth.

gentlemen. In the year 1827 it was pulled down,
and the site and grounds covered with about eighty
small houses, including Allen and Homer Streets
and parts of Carlisle Lane and Hercules Buildings.
Before it was built over, the grounds attached to
this house were encompassed by a high and strong
brick wall, which had in it a gate of ancient form,
opening towards Stangate. A smaller back gate
in the south wall had over it two keys in saltire,
and something resembling a mitre for a crest. Two
bricks, one upon the other, served for a shield, and
the workmanship of the arms was of as low a taste
as the materials."

In a garden at Carlisle House
was standing, in the middle of the
last century, a mulberry-tree, which
bore an excellent crop during the
summer of 1753. Its shade was
nearly fifty yards in circumference,
and between four and five hundred
pottles of fruit were gathered off it
in one summer, whilst the ground
all under and around the tree
looked as if soaked with blood,
owing to people treading upon the
fallen fruit.

Another mansion of note here
was Norfolk House, the residence
of the old Earls and Dukes of
Norfolk. It stood in Chun
Street, on the site now occupic
by Messrs. Daun and Vallentin's
distillery and a range of buildings
called Norfolk Row. The mansion
remained in the possession of the
Dukes of Norfolk till the commencement of Eliza-
beth's reign. The old duke, whose life was saved
the night before his intended execution by the
death of Henry VIII., and his son, the Earl of
Surrey, the courtly poet and lover of the fair
Geraldine, both resided here; and the latter .studied
here, under John Leland, the antiquary. On the
attainder of Thomas Howard, the third Duke of
Norfolk of this family, the house was seized by the
Crown, and pranted by Edward VI. in fee to
William I'arr, Mar(]uiK of Northam]iton, by the
title of " a capital mansion or house in Lambchith,
late parcel of the |)ossessions of Thomas, Duke of
Norfolk, and twenty and a half acres of land in
Cotman's I'ield ; one acre in St. George's Field
upon Sandhill ; six acres of meadow and marsh in
Lambehithc Marsh, whereof three acres were within
the wall of the marsh, and three acres without ; one
close, called Bell Close, abutting upon Cf)t man's

niK LllliVALIEK U EO.N.
{/•'rotn it!L Old Cnritiifityi;.)

Field towards the east, containing one and a half securing all the benefits of extramural interment.

acre ; one other close, abutting upon the way lead-
ing from Lambehithe to the Marsh, containing two
acres and a half."

In Wakot Place, near Lambeth Walk, the
notorious Mrs. George Anne Bellamv, after a life
of profligacy and splendour, spent her declining
years in poverty. In her " Memoirs " she tells us
how that, having parted with all her jewellery and
most of her clothes, and maddened with want, she
walked out into St. George's Fields, " not without
the hope of meeting with some freebooters who
frequent those lawless parts, and who would take
away the life of which she was so
weary ; " and how, disappointed in
this, she made her way to the steps
of Westminster Bridge to throw
herself into the Thames, when she
was recalled to her senses by
finding a poor woman with her
child worse off than herself Mrs.
Bellamy took her final leave of the
stage in 1784, and died in poverty
in February, 1788.

Of the "wells " and tea-gardens
in Lambeth Walk we ha\e spoken
in a previous chapter ; but there
was here, in times gone by, one
other object which we- should not
omit to mention : this was the old
mill belonging to the Apothecaries'
Company, for grinding and pound-
ing their drugs, &c. The mill,
wliich stood here long before the
introduction of steam into the
working of machinery, was a pic-
turesque structure, built chiefly of wood, and with
its " sails " had something of the appearance of
an old-fashioned flour-mill, ^\'e give an engraving
of this mill on page 415.

In the Westminster Bridge Road, under the
arches of the South-Western Railway, is the London
terminus of the Great Woking Cemetery, belonging
to the London Necropolis Company. The company
was established by Act of Parliament, by which the
Lord Lieutenant of Middlesex, the Lord Lieutenant
of Surrey, the Bishop of London, the Bishop of
Winchester, and the Chief Commissioners of Her
Majesty's Woods and Forests, are appointed visitors.
" Within a (|uarter of a mile of Westminster Bridge,"
then, as the Coniixiny announce in their advertise-
menl, we li.ive, " to all intents and jnirposes, a
cemetery of 400 acres." A train starts at the West-
minster Bridge Road to the cemetery at Woking
daily, " thus avoiding a long transit by road, and

Limb«lh.l

ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL.

419

We have already made mention of the chief offices
of the London NecropoHs Company in our account
of Lancaster Place, Strand.*

At a house called the " Crown," on the Surrey
side of Westminster Bridge, was born, in 1735,
Dr. Martin Van Butchell, the eccentric physician,
whom we have mentioned in our account of Mount
Street.t Another eccentric resident in the West-
minster Bridge Road, in former times, was the
Chevalier D'Eon, concerning whom there was so
much doubt raised as to whether he was a man or
a woman. Angelo, in his " Reminiscences," tells
us that he used to see the Chevalier D'Eon here.
" He lived a few doors beyond Astley's Theatre.
He always dressed in black silk, and looked like a
woman worn out with age and care."

At the foot of Westminster Bridge, and extend-
ing along the bank of the river towards Lambeth
Palace, is the new St. Thomas's Hospital, of the
foundation of which, close by London Bridge,
and its recent migration to the Surrey Gardens,
we have already spoken. + The institution was re-
moved hither in 1870-71. The ground on which
the hospital stands— between eight and nine acres
in extent — was purchased from the late Board of
Works, at a cost of ;£^ioo,ooo. That part of the'
Thames known as Stangate Bank, where the hos-
pital now stands, had long borne an ill repute — ill-
looking, ill-smelling, and of evil associations. Even
the construction of the Houses of Parliament on
the opposite shore — even the building of the hand-
somest bridge in Europe, that of Westminster —
tailed to redeem the hideous aspect of its fore-shore,
overladen as it was with dank tenements, rotten
wharves, and dirty boat-houses. But the time came
when it was decided to construct the Southern
Thames Embankment, and the necessities of its
formation compelled a large " reclamation " from
the slimy fore-shores. Of the whole site of the
present St. Thomas's Hospital, nearly half of it,
therefore, has been reclaimed from the mud of the
river. The buildings have a frontage of about
1,700 feet in length, and are about 250 feet in
depth. The hospital consists of no less than eight '
distinct buildings, or pavilions. Si.x in the centre
are for patients ; that at the north end, next to
Westminster Bridge, is for the officers of the hos-
pital, board-room, &c. ; that at the south for a
museum, lecture-room, and school of medicine.
The style of the buildings may be called Palladian,
with rich facings of coloured bricks and Portland
stone. There was some difficulty in getting a good
foundation for the buildings, as there always is at

* See Vol. TIL, p. 286. t See Vol. IV., p. 333.

t See nn/fj pp. 89 and 368.

Westminster or its neighbourhood ; and towards the
river front a depth of twenty-eight feet had to be
excavated before the firm clay was reached. On
this a solid basis of concrete was laid, and on this
again, on massive brick piers, the structure was
begun. The blocks are built at a distance of 125
feet from each other. Though the blocks are each
distinct buildings, they are all, in fact, coupled
together by a double corridor, one of which runs
along the river front to the west, and one along the
eastern face, near the gardens of Lambeth Palace.
This latter corridor is entirely glazed in, and has a
solid roof, with a balcony, which can be used either
as a promenade in fine weather for patients, or,
what it is really built for, an easy means of access
to the second floors of the hospital, with all of
which it communicates. The front corridor is a
very handsome stone arcade, but open on its
western side towards the Thames. This is used
as a promenade for the patients who are recovering,
and a most pleasant walk it is ; for the front of the
hospital, towards the river — and, indeed, the back
as well — is laid out in gardens and planted with
trees.

Each pavilion has three tiers of wards above the
ground floor, and in the first five pavihons the
main wards occupy the whole building on the river
side of the corridor. They are 28 feet in width,
120 feet in length, and 15 feet in height, with flat
ceilings throughout, and each have accommodation
for twenty-eight beds, with a cubic capacity of
1,800 feet for each patient. This capacity is largely
due to the ample floor space, which affords abundant
room for the attendance of students and for the
requirements of clinical teaching. The beds are
placed eight feet apart from centre to centre, and
the windows are arranged alternately with the beds,
at a level to enable the jiatients to look out of them.
There are also large end lights communicating
with sheltered balconies towards the river, in which
patients may be placed on couches or chairs in
fine weather. On the ground floor there are
smaller wards, which are used chiefly for the recep-
tion of accidents, and which make up the total
number of beds in each pavilion to about 100. At
the corridor end of each large ward the entrance
passage is carried between smaller rooms, a ward
kitchen, a sisters'-room, a consultation-room, and
a small ward. These small wards are for the
reception of patients who have undergone severe
operations, or who for any reason require unusual
quietude or exceptional treatment. At the river
end there is a lateral projection at each angle of
the pavilion ; and these projections contain on
one side a bath-room and lavatory, on the other

Lambeth. ]

ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL.

421

side a scullery and offices, all cut off from the
wards themselves by intercepting lobbies. Natural
ventilation has been as much as possible depended
on, with simple auxiliary arrangements for cold and
boisterous nights. The warming is eflected mostly
by open fire-places, as the most healthy mode,
with the addition of a warm-water system for use
in very cold weather. It is, perhaps, almost need-
less to say that the whole structure is fire-proof

With these theatres the covered corridors commu-
nicate directly from the wards. There is a special
wing, if we may so term it, set apart in one of the
northern blocks, and adjoining the matron's resi-
dence, which is used for the training of skilled
nurses, whose services, as they become thoroughly
proficient in their duties, are made available as
matrons in hospitals all over the kingdom, through
the agency of the Council of the Nightingale Fund.

THE ENTRANCt-HALL, ST. THOMAb S HObPITAL.

The floors of each storey arc laid on iron girders
covered with concrete, the actual upper floor of
each ward being made of tliin, broad planks of
oak. The walls of each ward, too, are coated with
Parian cement, which, while not so cold, is almost
as hard and non-absorbent of noxious gases, and
quite as smooth, as marble itself

Four of these great hospital blocks which we
have described, each 90 feet high by about 250
feet deep, are set apart for the reception of male
patients. These are on the north side of the
central hall ; the two on the southern side are for
women only. On each side there is a large
operating theatre for men and women, capable of
containing 600 students with ease whenever an
importnnt operation draws such a number together.
276

The " pupil nurses," who must be well-educated,
intelligent young women, from twenty-three to
thirty-five years of age, are trained here for one
year in the practice of hospital nursing, and are
provided during that time with comfortable home,
board, uniform clothing, and small salary. At the
end of the year, if qualified, they may expect good
situations as hospital nurses, with liberal wages,
usually commencing at ^^^20.

The low building at the end nearest Lambeth
Palace is the medical school. The admission fees
for medical students, for unlimited attendance at
practice and lectures, is 100 guineas; for dental
students (for two years), £45- Special entries may
be made to any lectures or to hospital practice,
and a modified scale of fees is arranged for students

432

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth.

entering in second or subsequent years. There
aie special classes for the first M.B. and prelimi-
nary scientific examinations of the University of
London, and private classes for matriculation and
other examinations. Gentlemen can attend the
above classes without becoming students to the
hospital. Qualified practitioners are admitted to
the hospital practice, lectures, and library, on pay-
ment of ten guineas for unlimited attendance.
Two scholarships founded here perpetuate the
names of Alderman Sir John Musgrove and Sir
William Tite ; there are also several college prizes,
ranging from ;^5 to ;!£^20, and also awards of silver
and gold medals. Two house physicians and two
assistant house physicians, two house surgeons and
two assistant house surgeons, and the resident
accoucheur, are selected from students holding
qualifications ; an ophthalmic assistant, with a
salary of ;!^So, is appointed ; clinical clerks and
dressers to in and out patients are selected from
gentlemen attending the hospital ; two registrars,
at an honorarium of ;^4o each, are chosen froni
third or fourth year's students. There are also
numerous minor appointments of anatomical assist-
ants, prosestors, obstetric clerks, &c., open to the
students without charge.

The entrance-hall, facing the new Lambeth
Palace Road, is a large and spacious apartment.
In it is a statue of the Queen, by whom the founda-
tion-stone of the hospital was laid in 1868, and the
building opened in 187 1. The statue, which was
executed by Mr. Noble, is sculptured out of a block
of pure white Carrara marble, and weighs five tons.
The Queen is represented seated on a state chair,
in her full robes of state, holding the sceptre in
her right hand and the orb in the left hand. The
left arm rests upon an arm of the chair, the right
hand being brought forward and resting in the lap.
The feet rest upon a footstool, and are, to some
extent, hidden by drapery. The likeness of Her
Majesty is admitted to be excellent. The pedestal
upon which the statue .stands is of Sicilian marble,
beautifully moulded and carved, with panels in the
centre on each side. The front portion of the
pedestal has a circular projection, and within the
panel immediately under the statue is the following
inscription :— " Her Majesty Queen Victoria. Tlie
gift of Sir John Musgrove, Bart., President, 1873."

There is a chapel which affords sittings for more
than 300 persons ; there are large and sjiacious
surgeries and dispensers' offices, with ample house
accommodation for chaplains, resident surgeons,
dressers, &c. Altogetlier, the hospital can make
up 650 beds for i)atienls ; and coiilaiiis, from first
to last, in all its wards, houses, outolfic^s, kitcliens,

sculleries, stores, and cellars, nearly 1,000 distinct
compartments. The mortuary-house and museum
are close by the medical school, at the extreme
southern end. The extreme northern end abuts
close upon the Surrey side of Westminster Bridge ;
in fact, there is an opening by a flight of steps
which gives direct access from the abutment to the
north end of the hospital buildings which rise above
it. AH the structures occupy together about four
acres, leaving four and a half acres laid out as
garden ground, in parterres and thick plantations,
for the use and recreation of the patients. The
out-patients do not enter the hospital proper at
all, but come by the new Palace Road, at the east
end of the buildings, and pass at once into the
men's or women's waiting-rooms ; and these again
! are sub-divided into medical and surgical depart-
ments.

Altogether, the plan of St. Thomas's Hospital
may be considered perfect ; and though it cost in
all at least half a million of money, it is a cheap
I outlay for the good it is certain to effect for ages
\ to come. As an addition to the great public
' edifices of the metropolis, it certainly will not be
' surpassed in appearance by any of the splendid
structures which of late years have ilone so much
• to enrich and improve London.
I As stated above, the space between the grounds
of St. Thomas's Hospital and the river, and
I westwards to Lambeth Bridge, a distance of 2,200
feet, is filled in by a good solid embankment,
which was commenced in 1866, and opened for
pedestrians in the sjjace of about two years. Tlie
work, called the Albert Embankment, which is con-
tinued beyond Lambeth Bridge, as far as the site of
the London Gas Works, 2,100 feet higher up the
river, was carried out by the Metropolitan Board of
Works, under the direction of the late Sir Joseph
Bazalgette, their engineer-in-chief; and it forms part
of the great design of embanking the Thames in its
course through London, which we have described
in a previous part of tiiis work.* Althougli open
only for foot-passengers, the Albert Embankment
is precisely similar in its construction, as seen from
the river, to the Victoria and Chelsea Embankments
on the Middlesex side of the river. Turning down
the embankment stairs, at the foot of the northern
end of St. Thomas's Hospital, the pedestrian has
before him tlie finest footway in London, but a
footway only. Wlien he has walked along this for
rather more than a cjuarter of a mile, let him stoji
and look back. If it be a fairly clear day, clear
enougli for him to see across the river and as far

• S« Vul III., p. 3M, «/.

Lambeth.]

THE ALBERT EMB'ANICMENT.

4^5

as the bridge, he may admire one of the finest
architectural views in London : all the finer if a ^
flood-tide and a fleet of barges and steamers fill j
the river with life. The scene at this point has
been thus described by a writer in the Times. \
Having, in imagination, conducted the pedestrian ,
to this spot, he proceeds : — " The Thames, ' without
o'erflowing, full,' * spreads at his feet, fenced in and
spanned by three great public works, the Houses of
Parliament, Westminster Bridge, and St. Thomas's
Hospital, forming, as it were, three sides of a I
hollow square. Of the long and stately front of
the Houses of Parliament, surmounted by the great '
clock and flag towers and graceful intermediate
pinnacles ; of the symmetrical lines of the arches '
and piers of the bridge rising out of the water, with
their massive and eternal look, he has, of course, a
full view. The colonnaded blocks of the great
hospital, which towered above him as he walked,
and seemed so much vaster than he had any idea
they were till he came close under them, will be
seen — and perhaps it is as well — rather en profile.
He will acknowledge that, all stained as it is, the
river has something to thank the City for. When
Spenser could sing to it and call it ' silver stream-
ing,' its banks hereabouts and lower down had
little to grace them besides

' Those bricky lowers
Where now the studious lawyers have their bowers.'

The fish have died out of it, and, higher up, the
swans cannot keep themselves white ; but in
Spenser's day the Thames did not wear such a
tiara as that bridge, it did not roll its waters
smoothly between granite walls, and Westminster
and Lambeth did not look down on it so proudly
as they do now with their Houses of Parliament
and hospital. These are great and costly works,
and a little farther on the picturesque battlements
of the Archbishop of Canterbury's half-house, half-
castle, with the dreary, heavy-capped turrets of
Millbank, will give him an opportunity of quoting
Byron's incorrect line —

' A palace and a prison on each hand.' "

Attempts at gardening have been made on the
Albert Embankment, in the vicinity of Lambeth
Palace, but not with the success attending that
carried out on the northern side of the river. Trees,
too, have been planted ; but in the course of a few
years the whole of those from Lambeth Bridget
westwards had to be removed, the reason assigned

* This applic.-ition of Denham's well-known lines was made before
♦lie river had begun periodically to " overflow " the lower parts oi
lambetli and Southwark, as we shall see presen tly.

■^ See VoL IV., p. 5.

being that the exhalations from the adjacent pot-
teries had destroyed their vitality.

The Southern Embankment of the Thames is
not, as we have shown in a previous chapter,| a
new scheme. In the " History of London," by
Fearnside and Harral, published in 1839, it is
stated that '" a proposition has received the City's
approval for a splendid quay from London to
Vauxhall. This, if carried into effect, will render
the banks of old Father Thames unrivalled for
beauty and convenience, and approach a little
towards the Parisian method of managing these
matters." The primary object in embanking the
Thames, particularly on the southern side, was to
prevent the recurrence of floods, in consequence
of a great part of Lambeth and Southwark l}ing
much below the level of the river at high-water
mark ; but this having been carried out no farther
eastward than Westminster Bridge, has left matters
much in the same condition as they were before,
or possibly worse : for since the construction of
the Victoria Embankment it is asserted that con-
siderably more damage has been done in the low-
lying districts than was the case before by the river
overflowing its banks so much more frequently.
A Select Committee of the House of Commons in
1876 reported that the embankment of the southern
side of the Thames was a matter, not of local but
of metropolitan importance, and that, as such, it
ought to be taken in hand by the Metropolitan
Board of Works. This task, however, the Board
declined, and consequently the local authorities be-
came naturally embarrassed. Some private owners
of property abutting upon the river have at times
executed works for the purpose of preventing any
expected overflow ; but these have been only of a
temporary character. In a memorial of the in-
habitants of Lambeth, presented to the Home
Secretary since the above refusal on the part of the
Board of Works, the memorialists held that, irre-
spective of any pecuniary question, "not only what is
necessary in the present, but what may be necessary
and desirable in the future, renders it expedient that
the whole bank of the river should be under the
control of a metropolitan authority, so that uni-
formity and completeness may be secured, and the
metropolis may derive the fullest advantage from
any public expenditure, The prevention of tidal
overflows being declared to be a matter of metro-
politan concern, can be dealt with only by an
authority representing the metropolis ; and, as the
Metropolitan Board declines to accept the reso-
lution of the Select Committee, your memorialists

t See ante, p. 387.

424

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

(Lambeth.

have no alternative but to approach the Govern-
ment, and to pray for relief from the present dead-
lock by the prompt passing of a Bill, framed in
accordance with the resolution of the Select Com-
mittee." It is to be hoped, in the interests of
common humanity, that Parliament will enforce
its decision on this head without delay.

Among the causes which have contributed to the
growth of Lambeth, we must mention the manu-
factories which have been founded here at various
times, forming centres of active industry, and conse-
quently of population. More than 200 years ago,
two Dutchmen established a pottery, and about the
middle of the last century two other potteries were
opened here. The cliief work in this line now
carried on in Lambeth is at the pottery of the
Messrs. Doulton, the producers of the celebrated
Lambeth faience, and whose name is worthy of
record as the revivers, in the last few years, of the
manufacture of Flemish and German stoneware,
which promise to make the name of Lambeth cele-
brated once more in the annals of art. They are
also the revivers of the white cream-coloured ware,
known as Queen's Ware, from the fact that Queen
Charlotte admired it so much when manufactured
by Wedgwood. " It is not many years ago,"
observes a writer in the Queen newspaper (1876),
" since Messrs. Doulton, of Lambeth, began their
career as art potters, having until then only been
celebrated for chimney-pots, drain-pipes, ink and
blacking bottles. And a marvellous success they
have achieved in this short space of time. Every-
body knows their admirable imitation of Grfes de
Flandre, surface-etched and embossed, tinted in
colours which equal those on the ancient ware.
Their terra-cotta ornaments are the delight of
architects, not only for their lasting proijerties,
which will stand even an English climate for
centuries, but equally so for their decorative merits.
. . . . 'i'hc great artistic feature of Lambeth
faience seems to lie in the direction of landscape
and figure painting ; and the success which has
been achieved in this direction, it may be added,
is mainly due to the Lambeth School of Art, which
has long been carried on under the fostering care
of the great river-side potters."

EstablisJicd in the year 1854 by the Rev. William
Gregory, then vicar of St. Mary's, Lambeth, as a
branch of the Central School of Design at Marl-
borough House, tJiis was really tlie first .Art Scliooi
of Design in the kingdom : as, indeed, it .should be.
The Lambeth school went on steadily increasing
until i860, when the Prince of Wales laid the
foundation-stone of the ])resent buildiiiL,'. Since
that time, the exertions of its director, Mr. Jolm

Sparks, have been unremitting in educating painters
I and modellers for Messrs. Doulton's works. With
' sound psychological judgment, he selected his
' pupils from the fair sex, well knowing the natural
artistic feeling of women and girls would lighten
j his arduous task of reviving an art-industry once
I before flourishing in the very same locality, but
long forgotten. Besides, by excluding foreigners
from his school, he wanted to prove that there is
e.xquisite taste and endless inventive power latent
in Englishmen and Englishwomen, which only
want bringing out by proper teaching and training.
] "Our English hands," he says, in one of his lectures,
" are as skilful, our heads as clear, our thoughts as
1 poetical, our lives as high, as any other people's ;
I and still we find French modellers giving the
I work of the largest Stattbrdshire potters a European
fame ; French modellers making the works of our
great silversmiths and electrotypists ; Belgian stone-
carvers cutting Romanism into Protestant reredos ;
and Germans, whose name is Legion, and whose
motto is ' Ubique,' filling our drawing-offices all
over the country." " These things should not be,"
concludes Mr. Sparks ; and that they need not be
he has proved through his pupils' achievements in
Lambeth faience.

Besides the potteries, the principal manufactures
of this parish are white lead, shot, glass, &c. ; but
none have been so celebrated as the Vauxhall
plate-glass. In the thirteenth century the Venetians
were the only people who had the secret of making
looking-glasses ; but about the year 1670 a number
of Venetian artists having arrived in England,
headed by one Rosetti, and under the patronage
of the Duke of Buckingham, a manufactory was
established at Vauxliall, and carried on with such
success, by the firm of Dawson, Bowles, and Co.,
as to e.xcel the Venetians or any otlier nation in
blown i)late-giass. Evelyn, in his " Diary," records a
visit which he paid to this establishment. Under
date of 19th September, 1676, he writes: — "To
Lambeth, to that rare magazine of marble, to take
order for chimney-pieces for Mr. Godolphin's house.
The owner of the works had built for himself a
pretty dwelling-house ; this Dutchman had con-
tracted with tlic Genoese for all their marble. A\'e
also saw the Duke of Buckingham's glass works,
where tiiey make huge vases of mettal as cleare,
ponderous, and thick as chrystal ; also looking-
glasses far larger than any that come from Venice.''
Tlie emoluments acquired by the jiroprietors of
the above-mentioned establishment are stated to
have been very large ; but in the year 1 780, in
consequence of a ilitTerence between them and
the WDiknien, a total stoj) u.is put to tliis great

I anibeth.]

GEORGE MORLAND, THE ARTIST.

425

manufactory, and a descendant of Rosetti ungi-ate- that the " Eagle and Cliild," tlie sign of an adjoining
fully left in poverty. The site of this celebrated I inn, is really taken from the crest of the family,
factory is now covered by Vau.xhall Square. [ Guy i^'awkes, too, it is said, had a house in

Pennant records, in terms of high approval, Mr. , Lambeth, where he and his fellows in the "(Um-
Coade's manufacture of artificial stone, carried on powder Plot " stored their ammunition. We give

in. the street called Narrow Wall, of which we have
already made mention.-'' He likewise describes
Lambeth as remarkable for another and altogether

a view of this old mansion on page 391.

It is to be feared that the accommodation for

the poor in parts of this parish is, or was in 1S74,
differentbranchofindustry, namely, the manufacture 1 most disgracefully inadequate; for, if we may trust
of Englisli wines, and also for the growth of the | Dr. Stallard's work on " London Pauperism," a
vines from which they were made. He writes :— I man, his wife, and three children were found o'ccu-
■■The genial banks of the Thames opposite to our ! pying a front room, only twelve feet square, within
capital yield almost every species of white wine ; a few yards of Westminster Bridge Road.

and by a wondrous magic, Messrs. Beaufoy here
pour forth the materials for the rich Frontiniac,
destined to the more elegant tables, the Madeira,
the Calcavella, and the Lisbon, into every part of
the kingdom. . . . The foreign wines are
most admirably mimicked." We have already
spoken of the growth of vines and the manufacture
of wine in London, in our account of Vine Street,
Piccadilly.! From an entry in Pepys's " Diary,"
in 1 66 1, this place seems at one time to have been
equally famous for its ale ; at all events, we here
read how that the genial Secretary of the Ad-
miralty went "out with Mr. Shepley and Alderman
Backwell to drink Lambeth ale."

Another thriving branch of industry connected
with Lambeth, in which employment is given to a
large number of hands, is the doll manufactory of
Messrs. Edwards, in \V'aterloo Road. Then, again,
various chemical, soap, and bone-crushing works
have also been established ; and Maudslay's engi-
neering works in the Westminster Bridge Road, on
the site of the old Apollo Gardens, | have become
a centre of industry.

Among the " noted residents " in Lambeth, not
already mentioned by us, were Mr. and Mrs.
Zachary Macaulay, the parents of Lord Macaulay,
who occupied a small house here for the first year
of their married life ; their illustrious son, however,
was born, not in Lambeth, but in Leicestershire.

In Lambeth Road, too, at one time lived the
eccentric artist, George Morland, whom we have
already introduced to our readers at Paddington.§
He was most clever in his delineation of cottage
interiors and low hostelries, with their accessories
of donkeys, pigs, &c. ; and it is recorded of him
that at Lambeth he had several four-footed lodgers,
including one of the long-eared tribe.

John Timbs, in his " Clubs and Club Life," says
that the Stanleys at one time had a house here, and

* See ante, p. 387,
X Ste aftti\ p. 389.

+ See Vol. IV., p. 25,.
§ See Vol. v., p. 222.

In a previous chapter we have enumerated the
wards or districts into which the parish of Lambeth
is divided ; || we may here add that, in conformity
with the provisions of the Reform Bill, passed in
1832, Lambeth was one of the four metropolitan
parishes which were erected into Parliamentary
boroughs. Under the Redistribution Act of 1885
it was cut up into a number of divisions. In
1832 the number of inhabitants was 87,856.
In the course of the next twenty years this had
expanded to 116,072 ; and at the time of taking
the census in 1S91 the population numbered no
less than 275,202. Lambeth has returned, at all
events, two distinguished members to St. Stephen's
— the Right Hon. Charles Tennyson D'Eyncourt,
and Sir Benjamin Hawes, the son of a great soap-
boiler, who was one of its first representatives,
and retained his seat for the borough for fifteen
years. Another of its members, Mr. William
Roupell, who was elected in the year 1857, subse-
quently acquired some celebrity — but not of a
very enviable kind ; for having been convicted of
forger)', he was transferred to a convict prison.

In 1877, under an Act of Parliament and an
Order in Council, Lambeth, as well as its neighbour
Southwark, was made to form part of the diocese
of Rochester.

From these dry prosaic matters to the realms of
fancy the change is refreshing. We will, therefore,
conclude this chapter by reminding the reader of
the dream of Charles Lamb, in his essay on
" Witches and other Night Fears." He dreams
that, having been riding " upon the ocean billows
at some sea-nuptials," he found the waves gradu-
ally .subsiding into what he calls "a river motion,"
and that the river was "no other than the gentle
Thames, which landed him, in the wafture of a
placid wave or two, alone, safe, and inglorious,
somewhere at the foot of Lambeth Palace." Thither
we will now proceed.

II See ante, p. 383.

A26

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth Palace.

LAMBETH PALACE, FROM MILLBANK, IN lS60.

CHAPTER XXXIL

LAMBETH PALACE.

*' Lambith, the envy of each band and go\vn"--Pope.

Histoid* of the Foundation of Lambeth Palace— Successive Additions and Alterations in the IJuilding— Fate of the Palace during the Ttme of
the Commonwealth— The Great Gateway -The Hall— Hospitality of the Archbishops in Former Times— The Library and Manuscript Kooin
— The Guard Chamber— The Gallery— The Post room— The Chapel— Desecration of the Chapel— Archbishop Parker's Tomb—The
Lollards' Tower — The Gardens— Bishops' Walk— Remarkable Historical Occurrences at Lambeth Palace— The Palace attacked by the
Insurgents under Wat Tyler-Queen Mary and Cardinal Pole— Queen Elizabeth and Archbishop P.arker— The " Lambeth .Uticles "—The
Archbishop's Dole— The Palace attacked by a London Mob in 164 1— Translation of Archbishop Sheldon— The Gordon Riots— The Pan-
Anglican Synod— The Arches Court of Canterbury— The Annual Visit of the Stationers' Company— Lambeth Degrees— St. Mary's Church
— Curious Items in the Parish Registers- The Tomb of the Tradescants.

" Immkdiatkly opposite to the Abbey and Palace
of Westminster," writes Dr. R. PauUi, in his " Pic-
tures of Old England," '• rose the castellated walls
and towers and chapel of the princely residence
which the Archbishops of Canterbury had chosen,
before the close of the twelfth century, as thcjr
town residence, in the immediate neighbourhood of
the offices of state and the tribunals of justice."
And there, he might have added, it rises still, and
frowns down with mcdircval and almost feudal
grandeur upon the waters of the river as they flow
calmly on towards the sea, just as they did in the

days of our Norman sovereigns. The palace, it
must be owned, wears a \ery solemn and even
gloomy appearance, resembling a fortress rather
than an episcopal palace ; and there was a time
when it rose still more conspicuous before the
eyes of the citizens of London than now — we mean
when the river was the " silent way " along which
nearly all the traftk and the travellers passed.
The reader will not forget Pope's reference to this
palace in his description of the Thames, in emula-
tion of Spenser, which we have ijuoted above, as a
motto to this chaiiter.

428

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth Palace.

The quiet gardens and venerable towers might
ahnost be taken as a symbol of the archbishopric
itself. " Its dingy brick, and solemn litde windows,
with the reverend ivy spreading everywhere about
its Avails,'' writes Mr. A. C. Coxe, in his " Im-
pressions of England," " seemed to house the
decent and comely spirit of religion itself: and one
could almost gather the true character of the
Church of England from a single glance at this
old ecclesiastical palace, amid the stirring and
splendid objects with which it is surrounded.
Old, and yet not too old ; retired, and yet not
estranged from men ; learned, and yet domestic ;
religious, yet nothing ascetic ; and dignified, with-
out pride or ostentation : such is the ideal of
the Metropolitical palace on the margin of the
Thames. I thought, as I glided by, of the time
when Henry stopped his barge just here to take in
Archbishop Cranmer, and give him a taste of his
royal displeasure ; and of the time when Laud
entered his barge at the same place to go by water
to the Tower, ' his poor neighbours of Lambeth
following him with their blessings and pra\'ers for
his safe return.' They knew his better part."

As we have already seen, the manor of Lambeth
was given by Goda, sister of Edward the Confessor,
to the see of Rochester, in the eleventh century.
The manor was afterwards seized by William the
Conqueror, who gave part of the lands to his half-
brother, Odo, Bisliop of Bayeux. It was, however,
ultimately restored to its former owners, the see of
Rochester, one of whose bishops, Glanville, erected
here, at the close of the twelfth century, a residence
for himself and his successors whenever they
visited the metropolis. The ancient possession of
Lambeth liy the see of Rochester is still com-
memorated by the payment to the latter, in two
half-yearly sums, of five marks of silver, in con-
sideration of the lodging, fire-wood, forage, and
other accommodations which the Bishops of
Rochester had been accustomed to receive here
whenever they visited London. This house, being
afterwards exchanged for other lands with Hubert
Walter, Archbishop of Canterbur}', became the
episcopal residence. Pennant tells us that it was
the original intention of Archbishop Walter to have
erected here a " College of Secular Monks " — he
meant, of course, of " monks," 7wt of " seculars " —
independent of those of Canterbury, but that cir-
cumstances obliged him to abandon his [jurpose.

Archbishops Hubert Walter and Langton suc-
cessively lived at the Episcopal Manor House at
Lambeth. The latter repaired it, as well as the
palace at Canterbury. His residence here is
proved by some public acts in i2oy. Of this

house there is no account or description, and it
seems it was afterwards neglected and became
ruinous. Archbishop Boniface, in 1216, as an
expiation, it is said, for his outrageous behaviour
to the prior of St. Bartholomew's in Smithfield,
obtained a bull from Pope Urban R'., among
other things, to rebuild his houses at " Lamhie,"
or to build a new one oti a different site, from
which circumstance he is generally supposed to
have been the first founder of the present palace.
It was gradually enlarged and improved by his
successors, particularly by Chicheley, who enjoyed
the primacy from 1414 to 1443. He was the
builder of that portion of the palace known a's
the Lollards' Tower. " Neither Protestants nor
Catholics," says Pennant, " should omit visiting
this tower, the cruel prison of the unhappy followers
of Wicklifte. The vast staples and rings to which
they were chained before they were brought to the
stake ought to make Protestants bless the hour
which freed them from so bloody a period.
Catholics may glory that time has softened their
zeal into charity for all sects, and made them blush
at these memorials of the misguided zeal of our
ancestors."

Cardinal Morton, Archbishop of Canterbur)-,
who died in 1500, made many additions and im-
provements to the present palace. He was the
builder of the magnificent brick gateway or prin-
cipal entrance at the north-west.

Warham, having acted as ambassador for King
Henry VII. to the Duke of Burgundy, was, on his
return in 1493, appointed Chancellor of Wells, and
soon afterwards Master of the Rolls. He was
subsequently made Keeper of the Great Seal, then
Chancellor; in 1503 he was raised to the see of
London, and in the year following was enthroned
Archbishop of Canterbur)'. In 1515 \\"arham
resigned the Chancellorship, which was bestowed
on Cardinal Wolsey, and retired to his palace.
He was succeeded, in 1533, by Thomas Cranmer,
wlio, writes the author of " Lambeth and the
Vatican," " may be considered one of the most
distinguished men that Cambridge ever produced,
and the most eminent prelate that ever filled the
see of Canterbury." The part which he took in
favour of the divorce between Katharine of Aragon
and Henry VIII. induced the king to nominate him
archbisho]) ; he was, therefore, eventually raised
to the see of Canterbury, in which capacity he
pronounced the divorce between Queen Katharine
and Henry, and ratified his marriage with Anne
Boleyn — a step which so ingratiated him into the
favour of the king. Cranmer's zeal in the cause
of the Reformed religion frequently led him into

L-imbeth Palace]

PURITANICAL BARBARISM.

429

acts of severity towards those whose opinions
differed from his own, from which even the spirit of
the times and the barbarous inhumanity exercised
by the Protestants abroad is neither an excuse nor
an apology. On the death of Edward VI., Cranmer
espoused the cause of Lady Jane Grey ; Mary
triumphed, and the ruin and martyrdom of the
archbishop speedily followed.

To Cardinal Pole, who succeeded to the arch-
bishopric, is attributed the foundation of the .long
gallery in Lambeth Palace. He was appointed to
the deanery of Exeter by Henry VIII. ; but was
abroad when the king abolished the Papal authority
in England, and, not attending when summoned to
return, was proclaimed a traitor and divested of
his deanery. In 1536 he was made cardinal ; and
when Mary ascended the throne he returned to
England as legate from Pope Julius III., and had
his attainder reversed by special Act of Parliament.
" Few churchmen have borne so unblemished a
reputation as this eminent prelate, and few have
carried themselves with such moderation and meek-
ness. He died November 17, 1558, being the very
day on which Queen Mary herself died."

Matthew Parker died here in 1575, and lies
buried in the chapel. After the Civil Wars, and in
the time of the Commonwealth, when fanatical and
political fury went hand in hand, it was found that
every building devoted to piety had suffered more
than it had done in all the rage of family contest.
The fine works of art and the sacred memorials of
the dead were, except in a few instances, sacrificed
to Puritanical barbarism, or to sacrilegious plunder.
Lambeth House — for by that name, and the Manor
of Lambeth, the archbishops at that time dis-
tinguished their residence, and not by the modern
title of palace — fell to the share of two of the
regicides, Scott and Hardynge, who pulled down
the noble hall, the work of Chicheley, and sold the
materials for their own profit. The chapel they
turned into a dancing-room ; and because the
tomb of the venerable Archbishop Parker " stared
them in the face and checked their mirth, it was
broken to pieces, his bones dug up by Hardynge,
to whose share this part of the palace fell ; and
opening the leaden coffin, and cutting away the
cerecloths, of which there were many folds, the
flesh seemed very fresh. The corpse thus stripped
was conveyed into the outhouse for poultry and
dung, and buried among the offal ; but upon the
restoration of King Charles, that wretch Hardynge
was forced to discover where it was ; whereupon
the archbishop had him honourably re-interred in
the same chapel near the steps of the altar."

The palace had for some time previous to this

been used as a prison for the Royalists ; Guy
Carleton, Dean of Carlisle, was one of the persons
committed to it, but he fortunately escaped and
quitted England. Bishop Kennett says, that of
near one hundred ministers from the west of
England who were imprisoned at Lambeth almost
all died of a pestilential fever.

Passing by Grindall and Whitgift, we come to
Archbishop Bancroft, who, as we shall presently
have occasion to state more fully, began the fine
library in this palace, and left his books to his
successors for ever. He died in 16 10, and was
buried in Lambeth Church. Of the other improve-
ments in this venerable pile we shall speak in
describing the buildings themselves.

" With the exception of a Becket,'' writes the
author of " Select Views of London," " there are,
it is supposed, traces of some public act done in
this house by every archbishop, from the time when
the monks of Rochester became possessed of it till
its alienation ; for though in some cases the name
only of Lambeth is mentioned, yet it is so explicitly
averred in others that the archbishops were at the
manor house, that it may be presumed this was
their regular inn."

With the exception of the chapel, the whole of
the present structure has certainly been erected
since the above-mentioned period. The palace, as
it now appears, is an irregular but very extensive
pile, exhibiting specimens of almost every style of
architecture that has prevailed during the last seven
hundred years. The walls are chiefly built of a fine
red brick, and are supported by stone buttresses,
edged and coped with stone. The "great gate''
is enumerated among the buildings of the palace
in the stewards' accounts in tlie fifteenth year of
Edward II. Cardinal Morton rebuilt it about the
year 1490 in the manner we at present see it.
The building, which is chiefly remarkable for its
vast size, consists of two immense square towers,
with a spacious gateway and postern in the centre ;
it is built of red brick, with stone dressings, and is
embattled. The arch of the gateway is pointed,
and the roof beautifully groined. Above, is a noble
apartment, called the "Record Tower," where, until
lately, the archives of the see of Canterbury were
deposited. Access to the different storeys, now
used chiefly as lumber-rooms, is obtained by spiral
stairs in the towers.

Passing through the gateway, we enter the outer
court. On the left is a low wall, partly covered
with ivy, separating the palace demesnes from the
Thames and what was once the favourite prome-
nade known as Bishops' Walk, but now the Albert
Embankment. In front appears the Water Tower.

430

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth Palact.

■nnth the Lollards' Tower beyond ; and on the right
the Great Hall, now the library and manuscript-
room. It is a lofty structure of brick, strengthened
with buttresses, and ornamented with cornices and
quoins of stone. It is nearly one hundred feet in
length, forty in breadth, and fifty in height. The
roof is composed principally of oak, elaborately
carved, and has in the centre a lofty and elegant
lantern, at the top of which are the arms of the
see of Canterbury impaling those of Juxon, and
surmounted by the archiepiscopal mitre. The
interior is lighted, in addition to the lantern, by
ranges of high windows on either side, in some of
which are heraldic devices in stained glass. Over
the hall door appear the same arms as those above
mentioned, together with the date MDCLXIII j
and at the lower end is a screen of the Ionic
order, on the top of which is the founder's crest,
a negro's head crowned. The whole hall is wain-
scoted to a considerable height, and the floor is
handsomely paved.

This hall was probably built originally by Arch-
bishop Boniface in the thirteenth century. In
the stewards' account, above quoted, the "Great
Hall" is mentioned. It was "re-edified" by Arch-
bishop Chicheley ; and in 1570 the roofing was
" covered with shingles " by Archbishop Parker.
During the Commonwealth the hall is said to have
been pulled down, and the materials sold by Colonel
Scott and Matthew Hardyng, to whom the manor
of Lambeth had been granted. The present hall
was commenced after the Restoration by Arch-
bishop Ju.xon, precisely on the site of its pre-
decessor, and as nearly as possible after the ancient
model; but it was not finished at his death. Juxon
appears to have been so anxious concerning its
erection, that he left the following direction in his
will : — " If I happen to die before the hall at Lam-
beth be finished, my executors to be at the charge
of finishing it, according to the model made of it,
if my successor .shall give leave."

The reason why such large halls were built in
the houses of ancient nobility and gentry was that
there might be room to e.\ercise the generous hos-
pitality which prevailed among our ancestors, and
which was, without doubt, duly exercised by most
of the possessors of tliis mansion, though not par-
tiriikirly recorded. What great hospitality Cranmer
maintained, we may judge by the following authentic
list of his liouseliold — viz., "steward, treasurer,
comjnroller, gamators, clerk of the kitchen, caterer,
clerk of the spicery, yeoman of ewry, bakers,
pantlers, yeomen of the horse, ushers, butlers of 1
wine and ale, larderers, squilleries, ushers of the
hall, porter, ushers of the chamber, daily waiters j

in the great chamber, gendemen ushers, yeomen
' of the chamber, carver, sewer, cup-bearer, grooms
of the chamber, marshal, groom-ushers, almoner,
j cooks, chandler, butchers, master of the horse,
I yeomen of the wardrobe, and harbingers." Car-
dinal Pole, his successor, had a patent from Phihp
and Mary to retain one hundred servants, a fact
which affords some idea of his hospitahty and
grandeur.

Of the hospitality of Archbishop Parker, Strype
gives us the following account : — " In the daily
eating this was the custom : the steward, with the
servants that were gentlemen of the better rank,
sat down at the tables in the hall at the right
hand ; and the almoner, with the clergy and the
other servants, sat on the other side, where there
was plenty of all sorts of provision, both for eating
and drinking. The daily fragments thereof did
suflice to fill the bellies of a great number of poor
hungry people that waited at the gate ; and so
constant and unfailing was this provision at my
lord's table, that whosoever came in, either at
dinner or supper, being not above the degree of a
knight, might there be entertained worthy of his
quality, either at the steward's or at the almoner's
table. And, moreover, it was the archbishop's
command to his servants that all strangers should
be received and treated with all manner of civility
and respect, and that places at the table should
be assigned them according to their dignity and
quality, which redounded much to the praise and
commendation of the archbishop. Tlie discourse
and conversation at meals was void of all brawls
and loud talking, and for the most part consisted
in framing mens manners to religion, or to some
other honest and beseeming subject. There was a
monitor in the hall ; and if it happened that any
spoke too loud, or concerning things less decent,
it was presently hushed by one that cried ' Silence.'
The archbishop loved hospitality, and no man
showed it so much or with better order, though he
himself was very abstemious."

The great hall is now used as a library. Ranged
on each side along the walls are projecting book-
cases, containing nearly 30,000 volumes, chiefly
valuable for works relating to theology and eccle-
siastical history and anti(|uities ; these, however,
are varied witli old English poetry and romances,
and topographical, heraldic, and genealogical works.
A collection of books existed at an early period as
an ajjpendage to the arclibishop's household ; but
the first reliable date of the foundation of the
present library is 1610, in which year Archbishop
Bancroft left by will " to his successors tlie Arch-
bishops of Canterbury, for ever, a greate and famous

Lambeth Palace 1

THE ARCIIIEFISCOPAL LIBRARY.

431

library of bookes of divinity, and of many other
sorts of learning," provided they bound themselves
to the necessary assurances for the continuance of
such books to the archbishops successively ; other-
wise, they were to be bequeathed to the " publique
library of the University of Cambridge." Bancroft's
successor — Archbishop Abbot (1611-33) — carried
out these injunctions, and left his own books to
tlie Lambeth library. But the civil war marked
the crisis in the history of the collection, for when
the Parliamentarians were about to seize on Lam-
beth Palace, the learned Selden, fearing the danger
of total dispersion, suggested to the University of
Cambridge their right to tlie books, in accordance
with Bancroft's will, as above mentioned. Very
few of Archbishop Laud's books are here, nearly
all of them having been presented to the library
of St. John's College, Oxford. To Cambridge the
Lambeth books were transferred and preserved,
until, at the Restoration, they were recalled by
Archbishop Ju,\on (1660-3). That primate's death
occurring before the books could be restored, it
was left to his successor. Archbishop Sheldon, to
see them replaced at Lambeth. This primate pre-
sented many books to the library ; but not so his
successor, Archbishop Sancroft, who, although he
had many of the MSS. re-bound and preserved,
yet on his resignation presented his collection to
Emmanuel College, Cambridge, of which he had
been master. P'rom Archbishop Tillotson (1691-5)
we hear of no bequests ; but his successor, Arch-
bishop Tenison, bequeathed a portion of his library
to Lambeth, a part to St. Paul's Cathedral, and
the remainder to the library which he had founded
in St. Martin's-in-the-Fields.* From 1716 to 1757,
when the see of Canterbury was filled by the
primates Wake, Potter, Herring, and Hutton, few
additions were made ; but Archbishop Seeker, who
followed next in order, will be gratefully remem-
bered in the library annals as having given all
the books in his own library, which included also
many interesting pamphlets, to the archiepiscopal
collection. To Archbishop Cornwallis we are in-
debted for presenting and causing the extensive
collection of tracts to be bound and arranged. The
names of Archbishops Manners-Sutton (1805-2S)
and Hovvley (1S28-48) are associated with large
bequests of theological lore to the library.

The great hall was converted to its present use
by Archbishop Howley in 1834, previously to which
time the books were arranged in some galleries
over the cloisters which were then standing. The
bequests of successive primates are generally dis-

• Sec Vol. III., p. isS.

tinguished by their arms or initials on the outside
cover of tlie books, while autographs and memoranda
on the title-pages record noted names, and supply
links of ownership. Among those autogi-aphs may
be found the names of Cranmer ; Foxe, the " mar-
tyrologist ;" Tillotson ; Tenison ; Henry Wotton,
the well-known writer on architecture ; the more
j famous one of Charles I., attached to a " Life of
Archbishop Laud ; " and several of less note. It is
in this way that the interest of the books is iden-
tified with much that is historical. An exhaustive
catalogue of the library and art treasures in the
palace, with a full description of its illuminated
manuscripts and ancient chronicles, was published
in 1873 by the Archbishop's librarian, Mr. S. W.
Kershaw. Space does not admit of our entering
at any great length into a description of the varied
contents of this library ; but we may state that
among the ancient printed books is one of great
rarity : this is " The Chronicles of Great Britain,"
and was printed by Caxton at Westminster in 1480.
There are about five other works printed by Caxton
in the library, although imperfect. The " Golden
Legend," printed by the celebrated Wynkyn dc
Worde, also finds a place here ; as also does the
" Nuremberg Chronicle " (the library had two
copies), and the fifteenth century MSS., known as
the "St, Alban's Chronicle." Of illuminated MSS.,
there are about thirty examples of the various
styles of art in this library ; one of the most rare
being the little MS. known as the " Gospels of
Mac Durnan," written about the year goo, and
presented by King Athelstan to the City of Can-
terbury. The school of English art is represented
most notably in the copy of the New Testament,
printed on vellum, known as the "Mazarine,"
from the fact of the first copy having been dis-
covered in the library of that cardinal.

This Mazarine Bible is of great rarity and value.
About twenty-four copies are known, four being
on vellum. Another interesting example o<"
English art is a MS. known as the " Dictyes and
Sayings of the Philosophers ; " and in this illumina-
tion the author is represented as introducing a
tonsured personage, who presents a copy of the
work to King Edward IV., accompanied by his
queen and their son, afterwards Edward V. Wal-
pole, in his " Royal and Noble Authors," ha^s given
an engraving of this miniature, and it has also been
engraved by Strutt.

There is in the library only one book which is
known for certain to have belonged to Archbishop
Parker, and that is a treatise entitled " De Anti-
quitate et Privilegiis Ecclesise Cantuarensis." The
library contains, inter alia, an original impression

432

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth Palace.

of the scarce plan of London by-Aggas, together entering into orders, became Hbrarian and keeper
with a series of prints of the archbishops of the
see from the Reformation downwards, collected by
Archbishop Cornwallis.

donation was made of theological ; services, and on whose death, in 184S, he resigned

of manuscripts here, under Archbishop Howley,
who conferred on him the Lambeth degree of D.D.,
in recognition of his learning and long and able

hooks

his appointment.

He was the author of many
learned works, amongst
which we may specify —
Inquiries into the
Grounds on which the
Prophetic Period of Daniel
and St. John has been sup-
posed to consist of 1,260
years;" " The
Dark Ages :
being a series
of Essays, in-
tended to il-
lustrate the
State of Reli-
gion and Li-
terature in the
Ninth, Tenth,

TIIF, LOLLARDS' TOWER, L.\MHF.TH P.ALACE.

Selwyn, of Cambridge, one of the honorary curators
of this library. Tius gift supplied many deficiencies
in modem works.

Dr. Ducarel, who was the Archbishop's librarian,
is recorded in " Walpoliana " as a " poor creature,"
and not very anxious to oblige those who wanted to
consult the library. From some incidental hints
given by Horace Walpole, it may be inferred that
a century ago the Archie|)iscoi)al Library was not
very easily available to scholars and literary men.

One late librarian. Dr. Samuel Maitland, who
died in 1866, deserves mention in these jxigcs.
Born about the year 1790, he graduated at Trinity
College, Cambridge, and was for some time a
barrister of the Inner Temple. He, however,
applied himself to the study of church history, and

Eleventh, and Twelfth Centuries ; " " Essays on
Subjects connected with the Reformation in
England;" "Eruvin, or Miscellaneous Essays
on subjects connected with the Nature, History,
and Destiny of Man,'' &c. He was also th'j
compiler of an " Index to such English books
[irintcd before the year 1600, as are in the Archi-
episcopal Library at Lambeth."

The first complete catalogue of printed book.i
which was formed on the plan of the Bodleian
Catalogue, was drawn up by Dr. Gibson (afterwards

Lambeth Palace.)

THE GUARD-CHAMBER.

433

Bishop of Lincoln), the editor of " Camden's
Britannia," who was some time vicar of Lambeth,
and also librarian here. This catalogue is de-
posited in the manuscript library. In 1 718 it was
fairly copied by Dr. Wilkins, in three folio volumes,
and has been continued by his successors to the
present time. In 1873-4 the whole of the books
and manuscripts underwent a complete repair, by a
special grant from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners.

A building of modem date, adjacent to the
library, serves as the manuscript-room ; it was put
into thorough repair a few years ago, and rendered
fire-proof Here are preserved some 1,300 manu-
scripts of the highest interest, together with the
records of the palace, which are kept in patent
" Reliance " safes. Some of the documents date
from a very early time, and one of them, it is
alleged, bears the signature of Canute.

^S^

THK CHAMBER IN LAMBETH I'Al.ACE IN WHICH THE LOLLARDS WERE CONFINED.

It m;iy be added that the archbisliop allows the
library to be open to students, and, indeed, to all
respectable persons, on application, every Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday during the year, vacations
excepted.

Before quitting the hall, we may remark that a
stone on tlie building gives the date of the erection
16S5 ; but a leaden pipe attached to the walls,
running from the roof to the ground, to carry off
rain-water, bears the date 1663. The pipe appears
to be in a very good state of preservation ; and a
coat-of arms, supposed to be that of Bishop Ju.xon,
can be plainly observed on it. To account for the
difterence in date, it is supposed that the pipe
belonged to an older building which stood on the
site of the present structure.
277

Among the " curiosities " of Lambeth Palace

preserved in the manuscript-room is the habit of

a priest, consisting of a stole, maniple, chasuble ;

I cord, two bands marked P, and the corporal ;

1 also a crucifi.K of base metal, a string of beads,

and a box of relics. Here also is kept the shell

j of a tortoise, believed to have lived in the palace

! gardens from the time of Laud (1633) to 1753,

I when it perished by the negligence of the gardener ;

the shell is ten inches in length, and six and a half

inches in breadth.

From the south-east corner of the hall a flight
of stairs leads up to the Guard-chamber ; it is a
large state room, fifty-six feet long by twenty-seven
feet wide, and is so called from having formerly
contained the armour and arms appropriated to

434

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth Falaco.

the defence of the palace. By whom the arms
kept for this purpose were originally purchased
does not appear, but they seem to have regularly
passed from one archbishop to another. The
author of " Select Views of London" says : "Arch-
bishop Parker gave them to his successors, pro-
vided they were accepted in lieu of dilapidations.
They were undoubtedly purchased by his successor,
and so on ; for Archbishop Laud says that he
bought the arms at Lambeth of his predecessor's
executors. In the plundering of Lambeth House,
in 1642, the arms — the quantity of which had been
extremely exaggerated in order to increase the
popular odium against Laud — were removed. They
were, however, restored afterwards, or replaced
with others ; for some of the old muskets and
bandoleers of an ancient make remained during
Archbishop Potter's time in the burying-ground,
the wall of which was pulled down by Archbishop
Herring, and the arms disposed of elsewhere."

The guard-chamber is now used as a state dining-
room. The principal feature which distinguishes
the apartment at present is its venerable timber
roof, which somewhat resembles that of the great
hall, but is much less ornamented ; the windows
likewise are pointed, and of an ancient make.
Over the door of this chamber is the date 16S1,
which shows that there were some reparations made
to it in Archbishop Bancroft's time. ' The lower
part of the walls of the apartment is covered with
oak wainscoting, above which are hung half-length
portraits of many of the archbishops, the most
interesting of wliich, perhaps, are those of Laud,
Cardinal Pole, Cliicheley, W'arliam, and Anmdel.
To the list of archiepiscopal portraits have been
lately added those of Archbishops Sumner and
Longley ; the latter, by Richmond, is hung in the
drawing-room. A portrait of Archbishop Laud,
and .also an etching of liis trial in Westminster Hall,
are to be found among the etchings of Hollar.

Leaving this chamber, we pass on to the chapel
tlirougii a narrow gallery, which contains numerous
portraits of ecclesiastical dignitaries, a small portrait
of ^Lartin Luther on panel, and also a splendid
engraving of Old London. Descending the stairs
at tiie end of this gallery, we enter the vestibule
of the chapel. ^I'his apartment is sometimes called
tJie " post-room," probably from the fact of the
ceiling being supported in the centre by a stout
pillar. It is on record that tlic builder of this
tower, Archbishop Chicheley, " found during his
time the impossibility of punishing all heretics witli
death, therefore wliipping and otlier severe and
degrading jiunislimcnts were consequently resorted
to." 'i'his so called post-room has been by some

considered as expressly set apart for that purpose ;
the pillar serving for the purpose of securing the
unfortunate heretics, confined in the room above,
while undergoing the degrading punishment of tlie
lash.

The chapel is considered by far the most ancient
part of the palace, being probably part of Arch-
bishop Boniface's original erection. It is in the
earliest style of English pointed architecture, being
lighted on the sides by triple lancet-siiaped windows,
and on the east by a window of five lights, set
between massive and deep masonry. It consists
of a body only, measuring seventy-two feet in
length, twenty-five feet in breadth, and thirty
feet in height; but it is divided into two parts by a
handsome carved screen, which, curiously enough,
is painted. Previous to the Civil Wars the windows
were adorned with painted glass, put up by Arch-
bishop Morton, representing the whole history of
man from the creation to the day of judgment.
The windows being divided into three parts, " the
two side lights contained the types of the Old
Testament, and the middle light the anti-type and
verity of the New Testament." Archbishop Laud,
on taking possession of the palace — to use his own
words — found these windows " shameful to look
on, all diversly patched like a poor beggar's coat,"
and he repaired them. " This laudable action of
the prelate," writes Dr. Ducarel, in his " History of
Lambeth," "which would now be justly esteemed
a mark of good taste and liberality, formed in tliat
narrow age of Puritanical bigotry the subject of a
criminal charge, it being alleged against him on
his trial, ' that lie did repair the story of those
windows by their like in the Mass Book ; ' but this
he utterly denied, and affirmed that he and his
secretary made out the story as well as they could
by the remains that were unbroken. TJicsc
beautiful windows were all defaced by our out-
rageous reformers in the last century, who, under
pretence of abhorring idols, made no scruple of
connnitting sacrilege." The roof of the chapel,
which is flat and divided into compartments, is
embellished with the arms of Archbishop Laud.

The interior of the chapel is fitted up with a
range of pews or stalls on eacji side for the oflicers
of the arclibishop's household, with seats beneath
for the inferior domestics. The altar-piece is of
the CorinlJiian order, ]iainted and gilded ; and the
floor is paved with black and white marble in
lozenge-shaped slabs.

Tlie only interment th.it appears to have taken
place here is that of Archbishop Parker, who died
in 1575. His body, by his request, was buried at
the up])er end of this clia]K'l, against tlie communion-

Lambeth Palace.]

THE LOLLARDS' TOWER.

435

table, on the south side, under a monument of his
own erecting, bearing a Latin inscription by his old
friend, Dr. Walter Haddon. The spot where
Parker's body now rests is marked by the following
words cut in the pavement immediately before the
communion rails : —

"Corpus Matth.«i Akchiepiscopi Tandem llic

QVIESCIT."

In the western part of the chapel is a monument,
with a long inscription to his memory, placed there
by Archbishop Sancroft.

During the Civil Wars, in 1648, when Lambeth
Palace was possessed by Colonel Scott, the chapel
was turned into a hall or dancing-room, and the
ancient monument of Parker was destroyed. Nor
was this all. We are further told that his body, by
order of Matthew Harding, a Puritan, was dug up,
stripped of its leaden covering (which was sold), and
buried in a dunghill, where it remained till after the
Restoration, when Sir William Dugdale, hearing of
the matter accidentally, immediately repaired to
Archbishop Sancroft, by whose diligence, aided by
the House of Lords, the bones were found, and
again buried in the chapel, in the spot above
indicated.

Underneath the chapel is a spacious crypt, which
probably dates from the middle of the thirteenth
century. It consists of a series of substantial stone
arches, supported by short massive columns. The
roof, which is about ten feet from the ground, .is
finely groined.

Retracing our steps through the " post-room,"
we come to one of the most interesting portions of
Lambeth Palace, namely, the building called the
Lollards' Tower. It was erected by Arclibishop
Chicheley, in the early part of the fifteenth century,
as a place of confinement for the unhappy heretics
from whom it derives its name. The building is
constructed chiefly of brick, and is embattled.
Chicheley's arms are sculptured on the outer wall,
on the Thames side ; and beneath them is a Gothic
niche, wherein at one time stood the image of
St. Thomas k Becket. The prison in which the
Lollards were confined is at the top of the tower,
and is reached by a very narrow winding staircase.
Its single doorway, which is so narrow as only to
admit one person at a time, is strongly barricaded
by both an outer and an inner door of oak, each
three inches and a half thick, and thickly studded
with iron. The dimensions of the apartment within
are twelve feet in length by nine in width, and
eight in height ; and it is lighted by two windows,
which are only twenty eight inches high by fourteen
inches wide on the inside, and about half as high
and half as wide on the outside. Both the walls

and roof of the chamber are lined with oaken
jjlanks an inch and a half thick ; and eight large
iron rings still remain fastened to the wood, the
melancholy memorials of the victims who formerly
pined in this dismal prison-house. Many names
and fragments of sentences are rudely cut out on
various parts of the walls.

In 1873 the Lollards' Tower, having fallen into a
very dilapidated condition, was thoroughly repaired.
The old roof was removed, the flooring renewed,
the old side walls re-faced with new stone, every
stone and brick ascertained to be faulty taken
out and replaced with sound materials, and the
whole structure restored. The tower for many
years was used as a lumber-room, but after its
restoration it has been occupied by more than one
bishop as a town house.

In addition to the apartments already mentioned,
there are the " Presence Chamber," the " Steward's
Parlour," and the rooms in the new buildings which
now serve as the residence of the archbishop. The
Presence Chamber is a fine ancient room, thirty
feet by nineteen. The precise time of the erection
of this part of the palace is not known. This room
is at present remarkable only for the stained glass
in the windows. Two of these contain portraits
of St. Jerome and St. Gregory, with the following
verses : —

ST. HIERONIMUS.
" Devout his life, his volumes learned be.
The sacred writt's interpreter was he ;
And none the doctors of the Church amonge
Is found his equal in the Hebrew tonge."

On the second window : —

GREGORIIIS.
" More holy or more learned since his tyme
Was none that wore the triple diadem ;
And by his paynefuU studies he is one
Amonge the cheefest Latin fathers knowne."

In this room many causes relating to Merton
and All Souls' Colleges at Oxford have been
decided in presence of the Archbishops as Visitors.

The present buildings, used as the archiepiscopal
residence, owe much of their unity and stateliness
to Archbishop Howley (1828-48), who not only
rebuilt the principal palace front on the south, but
restored much of the older portions. The works
were carried out under the direction of Mr. Blore ;
they were several years in progress, and the entire
expense was little short of ,^{^60,000. The garden-
front of the palace is of Tudor character, and with
its bays and enriched windows, battlements, gables,
towers, and clustered chimney-shafts, is verj' pic-
turesque.

The gardens and grounds, together with the
palace, cover about sixteen acres of ground. "Here

436

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth Palace.

were formerly," as John Timbs informs us in his
" Curiosities of London," " two fine white Mar-
seilles iig-trees, traditionally planted by Cardinal
Pole against that part of the palace which he
founded : these trees," he continues, " were more
than fifty feet in height and forty in breadth, their
circumference twenty-eight and twenty-one inches.
They were removed during the late rebuilding, but
some cuttings from the trees are growing between
the buttresses of the library." The terrace is named
Clarendon Walk, from having been the scene of
a conference between the great and wise Earl of
Clarendon and the ill-fated Laud. It is with regret
we add, that " Bishops' Walk," with its pleasant
elm-trees, trodden by the feet of so many visitors,
both lay and clerical, was swept away to make
room for the Embankment in front of new St.
Thomas's Hospital.

There is extant a curious etching, by Hollar,
of the river-side at Lambeth, including Lambeth
Palace, or Lambeth " House," as it was called.
In other respects it was in his time much the same
as now, except that a grove of trees stands where
now rises St. Thomas's Hospital.

Of the " remarkable occurrences " which have
taken place at the palace, space will only allow
us to speak briefly. Archbishop Anselm ordained
Sampson, Bishop-elect of AV'orcester, both deacon
and priest, together with the Bishop of Hereford,
in 1096, at Lambeth. In 1097, he ordained Hugh,
Abbot of St. Austin, at Lambeth, in the chapel of
the church of Rochester, where the archbishop
then lodged. He likewise presided in iioo at
the council held at Lambeth which announced the
legality of the intended marriage of Henry I. with
Matilda, the daughter of Malcolm, King of Scot-
land.

Archbishops Ralph, Corboyl, Theobald, Richard,
and Baldwin, were all consecrated at Lambeth ;
and though, as we have said, we have no account
of Becket being there, yet on the vacancy of the
see of Canterbury by his death, the suffragan
bishops, in pursuance of the order of Richard
de Luri, assembled at that ])lace, and, if not
unanimously, they at least with one voice made
choice of Roger, Abbot of Bee, to be his successor ;
but he would not accept the trust.

From " Collins's Peerage " we learn how that, in
1345, the nineteenth year of Edward HI., John
de Montfort, Duke of Brittany, did homage to the
king in Lambeth Palace.

In 1367 the consecration feast of William of
Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester, was kept here
with great magnificence by Archbishop Langjiam.

In 1381, (luring tlie insurrection of Wat Tyler,

the rebels not only beheaded Archbishop Sudbury,
then Lord High Chancellor, but plundered this
palace, and burnt most of the goods, books, and
remembrances of Chancery. Sudbury's Register
Book fortunately escaped destruction, and is still
at Lambeth. The damages done by these lawless
banditti were repaired in a great measure by
Arundel and Chicheley ; but much was left for
their successors to do, as may be reasonably con-
cluded from the sums of money expended on the
place by Morton and Warham.

In the account given of the convocation assem-
bled by Archbishop Arundel in St. Paul's Cathedral,
in June and July, 1408, it is related that after the
session of July 26, the bishops, abbots, priors,
chancellors of the two universities, doctors of
divinity and laws, deans, archdeacons, "and other
venerable persons eminent in every branch of
literature, to a number not easily to be computed,"
were entertained with elegance, and with great
profusion of viands, by the archbishop in his
manor-jiouse of Lambeth.

In 1446 Archbishop Stafford held at Lambeth a
convocation of all the prelates resident in London,
to deliberate about the payment of a tenth imposed
by the Pope. The king's prohibition was oftered
as a plea for not agreeing to this demand. In 14S1
the bull of Pope Innocent IV. against the rebellious
subjects of Henry VII. was exliibited to Archbishop
Morton " in a certain inner chamlier within tlic
manor of I-ambeth."

In the year 1501, Katharine of Arragon, after-
wards Queen of Henry VIII., on her first arrival
in England, " was lodged with her ladies for some
days at the archbishop's inne at Lambeth." It
was afterwards honoured with the frequent presence
of royalty. In 15 13, during a visit, it is presumed,
from Henry VIII. to Archbishop Warham at this
palace, Charles Somerset was created Earl of
\Vorcester.

In 1533, Archbishop Cranmer confirmed at
Lambeth the marriage of Henry VIII. with Anne
Boleyn ; and three years afterwards tlie .'anie
prelate, " being judicially seated in a certain low
chapel within his house at Lambeth," by a definitive
sentence annulled the marriage between the same
parties ; the (jueen, in order to avoid the sentence
of burning, having confessed to the archbishop
some just and lawfiil impediments to her marriage
witli the king. A little before the latter event —
namely, on the 13th of April, 1534^ — the com-
missioners sat at Lambeth to administer tiie oath
of succession to the Crown, upon the heirs of the
same Queen Anne, to the clergy, and chiefly those
of London that had not yet sworn. On the same

Lambeth Palace]

CARDINAL POLE.

437

day were conveyed thither from the Tower Bishop
P'isher and Sir Thomas More, the only layman at
this meeting, to take the oath ; but both of them,
as readers of history know, refused.

In 1537, the archbishops and bishops, by virtue
of the royal commission, held various meetings at
Lambeth Palace, to devise the " Godly and Pious
Disposition of a Christian Man," usually styled,
from the composers of it, " The Bishops' Book,"
but were obliged to separate on account of the
plague then raging at Lambeth, and persons dying
even at the palace gate.

In tlie rout of the Scots army, in 1542, the Earl
of Cassilis, who was one of the many persons taken
prisoners, was sent to Lambeth Palace, and was
kept there on his parole.

Several circumstances respecting Cardinal Pole
are noticed as having happened here by Strype,
Burnet, and other authors. Queen Mary is said
to have completely furnished Lambetli Palace for
his reception at her own cost, and to have frequently
honoured him with her company. "In 1554, on
his arrival from the Continent, having presented
himself at court, he went from thence in his barge
to his palace at Lambeth ; and here he soon after-
wards summoned the bishops and inferior clergy,
then assembled in convocation, to come to him
to be absolved from all their prejudices, schisms,
and heresies. The following month all the bishops
went to Lambeth to receive the cardinal's blessing
and directions."

" On the 2ist of July, 1556," says Strype, "the
queen removed from St. James's in the Fields into
Eltham, passing through the park to Whitehall,
and took her barge, crossing over to Lambeth unto
my lord cardinal's palace ; and there she took her
chariot, and so rid through St. George's Fields to
Newington, and so over the fields to Eltham, at
five o'clock in the afternoon. She was attended
on horseback by the cardinal, &c., and by a conflux
of people to see her grace, above ten thousand."
In the winter of the same year the queen removed
from St. James's through the park, and took her
barge to Lambeth, where she visited Cardinal Pole.
After dinner she resumed her journey to Greenwich,
where she kept her Christmas.

In 155S Cardinal Pole died at Lambeth Palace.
His body lay in state forty days, when it was
removed to Canterbury Cathedral for interment.

Queen Elizabeth was a frequent visitor here
to Archbishop Parker ; and the confidence she
reposed in that prelate induced her to employ him
in many aftairs of great trust. On his first pro-
motion to the archiepiscopal see, she committed to
him in free custody the deprived Bishops Tunstal

and Thirlby, Bishops of Durham and Ely re-
spectively, whom, we arc told, he entertained most
kindly. Tunstal survived his confinement only
about four months, and was buried in Lambeth
Church ; Thirlby, however, continued to be the
archbishop's " guest " for upwards of ten years, and
was buried near his brother bishop.

On one occasion when Queen Elizabeth visited
Archbishop Parker — possibly during one of her
" progresses " — the following circumstance is said
to have occurred : — The queen was never recon-
ciled to that part of the Reformation which allowed
the marriage of ecclesiastics ; and, unfortunately,
Parker had not only written a treatise on the law-
fulness of marriage, but had absolutely entered into
the holy state prior to the repeal of the statute
forbidding celibacy. The haughty i^lizabeth, al-
though elegantly entertained by the archbishop and
his lady for several days, could not at her departure
refrain from venting her resentment in the following
rude manner. Addressing herself to Mrs. Parker,
by way of taking leave, she said : "Madam, I may
not call you ; mistress, I am ashamed to call
you ; yet though I know not what to call you, I
thank you."

In 1 57 1, we read, the queen " took an airing in
St. George's Fields," previous to which slie had an
interview with the archbishop at Lambeth Bridge.
It appears, according to Strypc's " Life of Parker,"
that the prelate had in some degree, about this
time, fallen under the queen's displeasure by speak-
ing freely to her concerning his office. The arch-
bishop relates this incident in a letter to Lady
Bacon : — " I will not," he writes, " be abashed to
say to my prince that I think in conscience in
answering to my charging. As this other day I was
well chidden at my prince's hand ; but with one
ear I heard her hard words, and with the other, and
in my conscience and heart, I heard God. And
yet, her highness being never so much incensed to
be offended with me, the next day coming on
Lambeth Bridge into the fields, she gave me her
very good looks, and spake secretly in mine ear,
that she must needs continue mine authority before
the people to the credit of my service. Whereat,
divers of my arches then being with me peradventure
mervailed ; where peradventure somebody would
liave looked over the shoulders, and slily slipt away,
to have abashed me before the world."

Grindall, Parker's successor in the archbishopric,
I soon fell under the queen's displeasure, and it does
not appear that she ever honoured him with a visit.
Archbishop Whitgift, however, seems to have been
more fortunate, for it is reported that Elizabeth was
entertained by him no less than fifteen different

438

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth Palace.

times, and that she frequently stayed here for two
or three days together. James L was likewise
an occasional visitor of Whitgift ; and the last
occasion was on the 28th of February, 1604, when
the prelate lay on his death-bed. It was during
the primacy of Whitgift that an important event

began to furnish matter for fierce disputes. The
controversies which had divided the Protestant
body in its infancy had related almost exclusively
to Church government and to ceremonies. There
had been no serious quarrel between the contending
parties on points of metaphysical theology. The

GKKAI- IIALI,, LAMBETH I'.M.At K, iSoO.

occurred at lambclh Palace which has linked its
history more closely than anything else with tliat
of the Establisiied Church. Tliis was none other
than the Conference where the famous " Lambeth
Articles " were propounded for the signature of the
clergy. Macaulay mentions these articles thus : —
"A class of questions, as to which the founders
of the Anglican Church and the first generation
of I'uriUns had differed little or not at all, now

doctrines held by the chiefs of the jiarty touching
original sin, faith, grace, predestination and election,
were those which are popularly called Calvinistic.
Towards the close of Klizabeth's reign, her favouiite
prelate, Archbishop Wiiitgift, in concert with the
Bishop of London and other tiioologians, drew up
the celebrated iiislrument known by the name of
the ' Lambctli Articles.' In tliat instrument the
most KtanlinLT of the Calvinistic doctrines are

LAMBETH PALACE, iS75-
1. The Cloisters. 2. Entrance to the Palace. 3- Doorway leading from the Cjiape!.

5. Entrance to Cloisters.

6. Garden Front of tlie Palace.

~e^^:^rr — - Kulnn

4. Crypt uiider the Chapel.

44°

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[I-ambcth Palace.

affirmed witli a distinctness which would shock
many who, in our age, are reputed Calvinists.
One clergyman, who took the opposite side and
spoke harshly of Calvin, was arraigned for his
presumption by the University of Cambridge, and
escaped punishment only by expressing his firm
belief in the tenets of reprobation and final per-
severance, and his sorrow for the oftence which
he had given to pious men by reflecting on the
great French Reformer." The precious document
itself, which is thus connected in name with
Lambeth, may be read in extenso in Southey's or
any other " History of the English Church," and
so we may be spared the necessity of quoting it
here ; we may, however, merely add that the
" Lambeth Articles " were nine in number, and
ultra-Calvinistic in their character. They were
drawn up by Dr. Whitaker, Master of St. John's
College, Cambridge, and Regius Professor of
Divinity in that University, at the request of
Archbishop Whitgift, who sought to impose them
on the clergy of the Established Church. They
were rigidly suppressed, however, by order of
Queen Elizabeth ; and so strictly were her in-
junctions executed, that for many years a printed
copy of them was not to be obtained " for love or
mone)'." They were brought forward, some ten
years later, at the Hampton Court Conference, but
only to be rejected. The Irish Protestant Church,
however, adopted them in 1615.

Archbishop Abbot, who was appointed to the
see of Canterbury in 161 1, was accused by the
Duke of Buckingham of living at too costly a rate
for an archbisliop, and of entertaining people who
were not well affected to the king and his court.
On this occasion he replied to Secretary Conway :
" When King James gave me the archbishopric,
he charged me that I should carry my house nobly,
and live like an archbishop, which I promised him
that I would do ; and all tliat came to my house
of the civil sort I gave them friendly entertainment,
not sifting what exceptions the duke made against
tlicm. . . . But I meddled with no man's
quarrels ; and if I sliould have received none but
such as cordially and in truth loved him, I might
ninny times have gone to my dinner without com-
pany."

A propos of the banquets in the great hall, we
may state that Mr. Fenton, a distinguished chef de
cuisine under one of the archbishops during the
[iresent century, left to his family a valuable legacy
— the recipe for "Fcnton's Canterbury Sauce." His
grace was not a gourmand, but he liked a good
dinner, and knew both a good dinner and a good
cook when he had got one.

Although the dinners in the great hall have
ceased to take place, and the fragments, therefore,
are no longer given to the poor as of old, a sub-
stitute for the latter custom is still in practice, in
the shape of the archbishop's bounty or " dole,"
which has been dispensed before the principal
entrance of the palace every week down to the
present time : it consists of money, bread, and
provisions, which are given to thirty poor parish-
ioners of Lambeth, ten receiving it in turn on
different days.

Going back again to the earl)' part of the seven-
teenth century, we must speak of Laud, who was
translated to the archbishopric from the see of
London on the death of Abbot in 1633. This
prelate unfortunately lived in troublous times ; and
Evelyn records, in his "Diary," under date April 27,
1641 — apparently as an eye-witness — the fact of
" the Bishop of Canterbury's palace at Lambeth
being assaulted by a rude rabble from Southwark."
A few days later the palace was again attacked by
a London mob. As we learn from the " Com-
prehensive History of England," " Laud's friend.
Pierce, the Bishop of Bath and Wells, had called
the Scottish war of 1640-41 'bellum Episcopale'
(a war for Episcopacy), and such the English people
were disposed to consider it. During the sitting
of the convocation, a libel or paper was posted
up at the Royal Exchange, inviting the London
apprentices, who were rather prone to mischief, to
rise and sack tlie archiepiscopal palace of Lambeth,
The invitation was accepted, and on the night of
the nth of May, a mob, consisting almost entirely
of apprentices and youths, fell upon the said palace.
But Laud had had time to fortify and garrison his
residence ; the rioters were not very numerous,
and he 'had no harm.' Laud, in noting the
occurrence in his ' Diary,' says : ' May 11. Monday
night, at midnight, my house at Lambeth was
beset with 500 persons of the rascal riotous mul-
titude. I had notice, and strengthened the house
as well as I could, and, God be ble.ssed, I had no
harm.' Clarendon represents the mob to have
been much greater, for he tells us that ' the rabble
of mean, unknown, dissolute persons amounted to
the number of some thousands! 'Since then,' add.;
Laud, ' I have got cannon, and fortified my house,
and hope all may be safe ; but yet libels are con-
stantly set up in all places of note in the city.' "
Ten days afterwards Laud made the following
entry in his "Diary:" — "One of tiie chief being
taken, was condemned at Southwark on Thursday,
and hanged and //iint/eird on .Saturday morning
following." The victim, it np])ears, was (juitc a
youlh, and the horrid punishment of treason was

Lambeth Palaw.]

ARCHBISHOP LAUD.

44f

awarded to him by the court lawyers because there
happened to be a drum in the mob, and the
marching to beat of drum was held to be a levying
of war against the king. Clarendon says that
"this infamous, scandalous, headless insurrection,
quashed with the deserved death of that one varlet,
was not thought to be contrived or fomented by
any persons of quality."

In their accusations against Archbishop Laud,
the Puritan House of Commons charged him with
setting up and repairing Popish images and pictures
in the window of his chapel in Lambeth Palace.
The archbishop, in his defence, urged that the
Homilies of the Reformed and Established Church
allowed the historical use of images, and that Calvin
himself permitted them in that sense ; and that
the Primitive Christians approved of, and had in
their houses, pictures of Christ himself.

Laud was beheaded by the Parliamentarians in
January, 1644, and his body was interred in the
church of Allhallows, Barking, near Tower Hill.
After this event the see of Canterbury was vacant
nearly seventeen years, during which period, as we
have shown above, Lambeth Palace was nearly
demolished.

From Evelyn's "Diary," under date of August 31,
1663, we glean the following particulars concern-
ing the ceremony attending the translation of Dr.
Sheldon to the archbishopric : — " I was invited,"
Evelyn writes, " to the Translation of Dr. Sheldon,
Bishop of London, from that see to Canterbury,
the ceremonie performed at Lambeth. First went
his grace's mace-bearer, steward, treasurer, comp-
troller, all in their gownes, and with white staves ;
next the Bishops in their habites, eight in number ;
Dr. Sweate, Dcuane of the Arches ; Dr. Exton,
Judge of the Admiralty ; Sir William Merick,
Judge of the Prerogative Court, with divers Advo-
cates in scarlet. After divine service in the chapel,
perform'd with musiq extraordinary, Dr. French
and Dr. Stradling (his grace's chaplaines) saied
prayers. The Archbishop in a private roome
looking into the Chapel, the Bishops who were
Commissioners went up to a table plac'd before
the altar, and sat round it in chaires. Then Dr.
Chaworth presented the commission under the
broad seale to the Bishop of Winchester, and it
was read by Dr. Sweate. After which the Vicar-
general went to the vestry, and brought his grace
into the chapell, his other officers marching before.
He being presented to the Commissioners, was
seated in a greate arm chaire at one end of the
table, when the definitive sentence was read by the
Bishop of Winchester, and subscribed by all the
Bishops, and proclamation was three times made at

the Chapell dore, which was then set open for any
to enter and give their exceptions, if any they had.
This don, we all went to dinner in the greate hall
to a mighty feast. There were present all the
nobility in towne, the Lord Maior of London,
Sheriffs, Duke of Albemarle, &c. My Lo. Arch-
biv.hop did in particular most civily welcome me.
So going to visite my Lady Needham, who liv'd at
Lambeth, I went over to London."

"During the great Plague in 1665," writes Miss
Priscilla Wakefield, " the piety of the Christian and
the magnanimity of the hero were displayed by
Archbishop Sheldon. He continued in his palace
at Lambeth whilst the contagion lasted, preserving,
by his charities, multitudes who were sinking under
disease and want ; and, by his pastoral exertions,
procured benevolences to a vast amount."

When Archbishop Sancroft was deprived, in
1690, he left behind him his nephew, who, refusing
to give up peaceable possession, was "dispossessed"
by the sheriff and imprisoned, whilst Tillotson
was installed in the palace. Evelyn, who narrates
this fact in his " Diary," also tells us how he " Din'd
at Lambeth with the new Archbishop, and saw the
effects of my green-house furnace set up by my
son-in-law." Here, in successive meetings of the
Commissioners, was settled the plan of Chelsea
College, the project of Charles II., as already
mentioned.* Among the Commissioners were
Sir Christopher Wren, Sir Stephen Fox, and John
Evelyn, whose " Diary " records their proceedings
from time to time.

Queen Mary II. paid a visit here to Archbishop
Tillotson in 1694, as appears from an entry in the
churchwardens' accounts of " five shillings paid to
the ringers " on that occasion. This was only a
few weeks before the archbisliop's death. In the
preceding year the archbishop had called an
assembly of the bishops at Lambeth Palace, when
they agreed to several regulations, which were at
first designed to be enforced by their own authorit)' ;
but upon more mature consideration it was judged
requisite that they should appear under that of
their Majesties in the form of royal injunctions.
The queen was at different times consulted by the
archbishop concerning this business, and it is not
unlikely tiiat it was the subject of their conversation
on the occasion of the visit above mentioned.

Both of Dr. Tillotson's successors, Archbishops
Tenison and Wake, lived and died here, and the
former was buried in the parish church close by
the palace. Dr. Wake was the author of " The
Church of England and its Convocations," and

♦ See Vol. v., p. 70.

442

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth Palace.

several otlier theological works ; he was celebrated
especially for his controversy with Bossuet, and
his project of union between the English and
Galilean Churches.

Hutton, Seeker, CornwalHs, and Moore, who
were archbishops successively from 1757 to 1805,
likewise ended their days here, and were all buried
in Lambeth Church.

The palace very narrowly escaped destruction
during the Gordon Riots in 1780. The first alarm
was given on Tuesday, June 6th, when a party, to
the number of 500 or more, who had previously
assembled in St. George's Fields, came to the
palace with drums and fifes, and colours flying,
crying, " No Popery ! " Finding the gates shut,
after knocking several times without obtaining any
answer, they called out that they should return in
the evening, and paraded round the palace all that
day. Upon this alarm, it was thought necessary
to apply to the Secretary at War for a party of
soldiers for the security of the palace ; accordingly,
a party of the Guards, to the amount of one hundred
men, commanded by Colonel Deacon, arrived about
two o'clock that afternoon, when sentinels were
immediately placed upon the towers of the palace
and at every convenient avenue. The mob still
paraded round the house, and continued so to do
for several days, notwithstanding the number of the
soldiers. In this alarming situation. Archbishop
Cornwallis, with his wife and family, was with
great difficulty prevailed ujjon to tjuit the palace,
whither they did not return till the disturbances
were entirely ended. The military remained at
Lambeth for upwards of two months, during which
period there were from 200 to 300 men quartered
in the palace.

A good story is told of Archbishop Manners-
Sutton ([805-28) by the Honourable Miss Amelia
Murray, in her " Recollections." " It ha])pened
once that Lord Eldon and tlie Archbishop dined
with the King (George III.), and the former became
rather communicative and merry over his port.
At last he said, ' It is a curious fact, sir, that your
Majesty's Arclibishop and your Lord Chancellor
botii married tlieir wives clan<!estinely ! 1 had
some excuse, certainly, for Bessie Surtees was the
prettiest girl in all Newcastle ; but Mrs. Sutton
was always the same pum])kin-faced thing that she
is at present.' The king was nuuh aniusetl ;" as,
indeed, he well might be.

Coming down to more recent times, we find
Lambeth Palace used for tlie holding of meetings
of prelates of the Reformed Anglican Cliurch at
home and in llie colonies. 'J'he firsi <if thusc
meetings — called the Pan-Anglican Syn(jd — was

held here, under Archbishop Longley, in the autumn
of 1867. It was attended by upwards of seventh
bishops, from England, Ireland, the colonies, and
America ; but beyond the issuing of an address,
couched in very general terms, nothing definite
seems to have resulted from this great ecclesiastical
gathering.

In 1876 the great hall, or public library, was
used as the Arches Court of Canterbury, for the
trial of cases brought before the Dean of the Court
of Arches under the " Public Worship Regulation
Act." The west end of the apartment was fitted up
as a court for the accommodation of the bar, the
reporters, witnesses, &c., and the east end was
barriered off for the general public. The judge.
Lord Penzance, occupied the archbishop's chair.
The first two cases tried here were those of the
Rev. Charles J. Ridsdale, of St. Peter's, Folkestone,
and the Rev. Arthur Tooth, vicar of St. James's,
Hatcham, for ritualistic proceedings in their respec-
tive churches.

There are still one or two items of interest con-
cerning Lambeth Palace which we must not omit
to mention. Here, for instance, every year during
the month of December, the officials of the
Stationers' Company still wait formally upon the
archbishop in order to present him with copies of
certain almanacks which they have the privilege of
publishing, and which were formerly not allowed to
be issued except with the sanction of the Established
Church. The officials and their servants were in
former times entertained by the archbishop, on the
occasion of these visits, with a copious supply of
cakes and ale. This curious custom Iiad a some-
what singular origin, which is now not generally
known, or, more probably, is now "generally for-
gotten," though recorded by Sylvanus Urban in die
Gentleman's Magashie for 1800 :--"0n the annual
aquatic procession of the Lord Mayor of London
I to Westminster, the barge of the Company of
' Stationers, which is usually the first in the show,
proceeds to Lambeth Palace, where from time
immemorial they (the Stationers) receive a present
of sixteen bottles of the archbishop's prime wine.
This custom originated at the beginning of the last
century. When Archbishop Tenison enjoyed the
see, a very near relative of his, who happened to
be Master of the Stationers' Company, thought it
a compliment to call there in fiiU state and in his
barge, when the archbishop, being informed that
the number of the company on the barge was
thirty-two, thought that a pint of wine for each
would not be disagreeable, and ordered, at the
same time, bread and cheese and ale to be given
to the watermen and attendants ; from this acci-

I-ambelh Palact.l

LAMBETH DEGREES.

443

dental circumstance it has grown into a settled
custom. The Company, in return, present to the
archbishop a copy of the several almanacks which
they have the privilege of publishing."

Of course, since aquatic processions on the
Thames have been discontinued, the barge of,
the Stationers' Company no longer performs the
journey to Lambeth Palace; but the present of
the almanacks is still made to the archbishop,
although somewhat nearer the end of the year ;
the honorarium of "cakes and ale " for the bearers,
however, seems to be forgotten. '

The Archbishops of Canterbury used formerly ,
to keep their own barge, in which they crossed
the Thames to the House of Lords or to White-
hall Palace. Their favourite landing-place on the
opposite side of the water was Whitehall Stairs,
the picturesque gateway of which, represented on
page 444, was standing till the present century.

Degrees are occasionally conferred at Lambeth
on individuals who have risen to eminence among
the English clergy, though they have not graduated
in early life at one of the great universities. They
are, however, a legacy from times anterior to the
Reformation, when the Archbishop of Canterbury
had the recognised right of conferring them, as
being the permanent legate of the Pope of Rome. '
The privilege was specially confirmed to the see oi
Canterbury by that self-elected Pope, Henry VHL,
in April, 1534, and it is still occasionally exercised
by the archbishop.

The parish church of St. Mary, Lambeth, is
situate near the water-side, and adjoins the palace.
The whole of tlie building, with the exception of
the tower, was pulled down and rebuilt in 1851.
" Sufficient of the original fabric of the church,"
writes Mr. Tanswell, in his " History of Lambeth,"
"has been preserved to enable us to assign the
latter end of the fourteenth century as the date of
its foundation. The later character of the details :
of the chapels on the north and south sides of the
chancel lead to the conclusion that the church,
when first erected, consisted of a nave, chancel,
and tower only, and that these chapels, which are
the property of the Howard and Leigh families
respectively, were added at a subsequent period."

Mr. W. Newton, the author of " London in the
Olden Time," says that the antiquity of the existing
church is not known, and that it was " originally
a Gothic structure, a portion of which is supposed
to date from about the end of the fifteenth century."
This, however, is scarcely the case, for in the
Bishops' Registers at Winchester is a commission
against such of the inhabitants of Lambeth as
refiised to contribute to the rebuilding and repairs

of the church, dated 1374. Three years afterwards
there was another commission to compel the in-
habitants to build a tower for their church, " then
newly built," and to furnish it with bells. Mr.
Newton adds: " The building has been much altered
from its original state, and is now (1855) rather a
heterogeneous combination of various styles of
architecture, likely to afford but little interest to
the architectural student." From this statement,
however, we venture to disagree.

In January, 185 1, the work of restoration was
commenced, according to the plans and under the
direction of Mr. Philip Hardwick, and it was com-
pleted in little more than a year. Care was taken
that the outline of the original foundations should be
preserved, and that, wherever possible, the ancient
details should be reproduced. The church, as it
now appears, consists of a nave, north and south
aisles, and porch, chancel, and chapels ; the fine
western tower remaining without alteration. The
arcades in the nave have been carefully restored,
and the walling above them has been carried up
to the original height and pierced with clerestory
lights, the whole being surmounted by an open
tmiber roof, divided into seven bays by arched
trusses, resting on the ancient corbels. The
chancel is divided from the nave, and the Howard
and Leigh Chapels from the chancel, by three
lofty arches. The large east window, of five lights,
with the upper part filled with foliated tracery, is
furnished with stained glass, and is inscribed to
the memory of Archbishop Howley. Nearly all
the other windows on both sides of the cluirch are
now filled with gorgeous painted glass, which casts
on the pavement below —

*'.\ dim religious lij^ht,"

most of them having been erected to the memory
of deceased parishioners or of persons formerly
connected with the parish by family lies. The
chancel at first sight looks as if it had been
shortened ; but that is probably the effect of the
erection of the side-chapels above mentioned, to
the north and the south. The west end of the
church is lighted by a large circular window filled
with geometrical tracery, and the organ is placed
immediately beneath it. Till recently there were
extensive galleries on both sides of the church, and
at the west end one still remains. The altar-piece
is of carved oak, enriched with gilding and
arabesque painting.

The east end of the old north aisle was called
the Howard Chapel, from having been built, in
1552, by Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk (many
of whose family are here interred) ; and that of the

444

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tLambeth Church.

south aisle, the Leigh Chapel, built in the same year
by Sir John Leigh (son of Ralph Leigh, lord of the
manor of Stockwell), who, with his lady, lies buried
here. At the bottom of the middle compartment
of the south-east window, painted on a pane twenty-
four inches by sixteen, was the picture of the

Pedlar stands." In 1703 a "new glass Pedlar"
was put up, at the expense of two pounds ; but this
was removed from where it was then placed, in
the year 1816 (when the church was repaired and
" beautified "), to the window above mentioned,
which was much more conspicuous.

I

OI.I) WlHTKHAI.l, SIM!

pedlar and his dog, of wliich we have spoken in a
previous chapter.* At what time this memorial
was first put up there is no mention, but such a
portrait certainly existed in 1608, there being in
the churchwardens' accounts of that year an entry
of " two shillings, paid to the glazier for a panel of
glass for the window where the picture of the

See anfr, p.

The churchwardens' books contain some in-
teresting and curious items concerning the old
church. It appears that it contained, in pre-
Reformation times, no less than five altars : they
were dedicated respectively to the Blessed Virgin,
to St. Thomas, to St. George, to St. Nicholas, and
to St. Christopher. Then tliere are the " accounts
of Wardens of the Brethren of Sent Crystover, kept
within the church of Lambeth in the time of

Lamberh Church.)

F.XTRACTS FROM THE PARISH RF.CISTF.R.

445

Henry VHI.," from which it appears that the
stipend paid to Sir William Webster, the priest,
" for one year and one quarter," amounted to the
sum of ^8 6s. M. In the reign of Queen Mary
is a charge for replacing an altar in the Norfolk
Chapel, on the revival of the old religion : " 1557.

for mending a piece of glasse in the crucifixe in
the Dewk's (Duke's) Chapel, is. ^d."

The ancient pulpit must have been a curiosity in
its way ; for by the above-mentioned accounts it
appears that in 1522 a new pulpit was erected in
this church, at a cost of twenty shillings, and the

LAMBETH CHURCH (1825).

Paid to Nicholas Br)'msted, for making up the
syiie awtor in my Lady of Norfolke's Chapel, and
paving in the churche, and for sande, 4^. 2d.''
This chapel, it appears, was consecrated in 1522,
for in the churchwardens' accounts for that year
are the following entries ; — " Payd for candyls
when the chapel was hallowed, 2d." " To my
lady's grace for cloth for the ambys, £1." Under
dale of 1567 the following entry occurs: — "Payd
278

old one was valued at eightpence only. The new
pulpit continued in use till the year 1615, when
Archbishop Abbot gave another at a cost of ^15.
It was placed against the south-east pillar of the
nave, and was furnished, af'ter the Puritan fashion
of that time with an hour-glass, of which, however,
there are no remains, though it is mentioned twice
in the churchwardens' accounts. The pulpit and
reading-desk were subsequently removed to another

446

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Lambeth Church.

position at the entrance from the chancel to the
nave.

The parish registers begin with the year 1539.
In the churchwardens' accounts are the following
entries respecting them : —

" 1566. Payd for paper ryall, for tlie christenynge
X boke, 6./.

Payd Matthew Allen, by consente of the hole
parishe, for new writing of the olde boke of
baptisnie, marriage, and burial, 6s. SJ.
" 1574. For ii quere of paper to make a boke, 81/.
" 1593. Payd to the curat for writinge our boke of
christenings, weddings, and burials, 2s."

During the Commonwealth the banns of marriage
were often published in towns upon market-days,
and the marriage ceremony was performed by a
civil magistrate. In the Lambeth registers is an
entry of at all events one such marriage : — ■

" 1653, Nov. 7. Mark Perkins and Margaret Payne,
married by Thomas Cooper, Justice of the Peace."

Lambeth has nuinbered among its rectors many
men who have risen to eminence, of whom we
may mention Dr. Hooper, afterwards Bishop of
.St. Asaph, and subsequently Bishop of Bath and
Wells : he was the author of several works in
defence of the Church of England. Dr. Gibson,
the editor of " Camden's Britannia," and author
of the " Codex Juris Ecclesiastici ; " he resigned
the rectory on being raised to the bishopric of
Lichfield. Dr. B. Porteus, afterwards Bishop, in
succession, of Chester and of London. His
successor. Dr. Vyse, rector of the parish during the
latter part of the last century, was the son of a
clergyman at Lichfield, the contemporary and friend
of Dr. Johnson. To him Dr. Johnson addressed
two letters, printed in " Boswell," soliciting him to
ask the Archbishop of Canterbury to present to
the Charterhouse Hospital a nephew of the learned
Grotius.

The church contains some interesting monu-
ments, including those to the memory of several of
the archbishops, but they were, of course, shifted
from the positions which they originally occupied
when the rebuilding of the fabric took place in the
year 1851.

Here repose the bones of the brave old primate
Bancroft, of the meek Seeker, .and of the learned
'i'enison, who successively sat in the archiepiscoi)al
chair. Archbislio])s Cornwallisand Hutton,too, are
likewise interred here, as also are Bishops Thirlby
and Tunstall. The body of Thirlby was accident-
.illy discovered when Archbishop Cornwallis was
buried in 1783. 'i'he body, which was wrapped
in fine linen, was moist, and had evidently been
preserved in some species of ])i<;lilc, which still

retained a volatile smell, not unlike that of harts-
horn ; the face was perfect, and the limbs flexible ;
the beard of a remarkable length, and beautifully
white. The linen and woollen garments were all
well preserved. The cap, whicli was of silk, adorned
with point lace, was in fashion like that represented
in the pictures of Archbishop Juxon. A slouched
hat, with strings fastened to it, was under the left
arm. There was also a cassock, so fastened as to
appear like an apron with strings, and several small
pieces of the bishop's garments, which had the
appearance of a pilgrim's habit.

Besides the above-mentioned, here, or in the
churchyard, rest tiie bodies of DoUond, the noted
maker of telescopes, and founder of the well-
known firm of Ludgate Hill ; Madame Storace,
the vocalist ; and Moore, the author of the tragedy
of the " Gamester." Here, too, sleep in peace
Ashmole, the antiquary, and the Tradescants, whose
united collections of natural history formed the
nucleus of the Ashmolean Museum at O.vford. Oi
the Tradescants we have spoken at some length
in our account of their house at South Lambeth. •''
In 1662, a table monument of free-stone was erected
here by the widow of John Tradescant the younger,
covered on each of its four sides with sculptures :
at each corner is the representation of a large tree,
seeming to support the slab; at one end is a hydra
picking at a bare skull; on the other are the arms
of the family. On one side of the tomb are ruins,
Grecian pillars and capitals, an obelisk and pyramid ;
and on the opposite a crocodile, shells, &c., and a
view of some Egyptian buildings. Having become
very much dilapidated, tliis monument was repaired
in 1773 ; but having again become almost illegible,
it was entirely repaired by subscription, in 1S53,
in accordance with the original form and design.
The tomb, which is raised on a granite plinth, has
upon it the following inscription : —

" John Tradescant, died a.d. MUCKXXVIII. Jane
Tradescant, his wife, died a.d. MDCXXXIV. Johm
Tradescant, his son, died 25th April, a.d. MDCLXII.
John Tradescant, his grandson, died Iith September,
a.d. MDCLII. Hester, wife of John Tradescant the
younger, died 6th of April, A.D. MDCLXXVIII.

" Know, Stranger, ere thou pass, beneath this stone
Lye John Tr.-idcscant, Cirandsire, Father, and .Son,
The last died in his Spring ; the otiicr two
Lived till they had travell'd Art .and Nature through,-
As by Iheir choice Collections may appear,
Of what is rare in land, in sea, in air ;
Whilst they (.as Homer's Iliad in a nut)
A world of wonders in one closet shut.
These famous antiquarians that had been
Doth gardeners to the rose and lily queen,

• Sec /:.•.•.'.•, p. 314.

Vauxhall.]

THE FLIGHT OF MARY OF MODENA.

447

Transplanted now themselves, sleep here ; and when
Angels shall with their trumpets waken men,
And fire shall purge the world, these hence shall rise,
And change this garden for a Paradise.
" This tomb, originally erected on this spot in year 1662,
By Hester, relict of John Tradescant the Younger,
Being in a state of decay.
Was repaired by Subscription in the year 1773.
" After lapse of nearly two centuries since its erection,
It was entirely restored by Subscription in the year 1853."

The fund for the restoration of this tomb — about
_;^ioo — was raised under the direction of the late
Sir William Hooker, the distinguished botanist and
curator of Kew Gardens ; Sir Charles G. Young,
Garter King-at-Arms ; the Rev. C. B. Dalton, Rector
of Lambeth, &c. It was an old debt to the
memories of these first of English gardeners and
naturalists ; men who did so much to minister to
" the inclinations of kings and the choice of philo-
sophers."

Dr. Ducarel, in his " History of Lambeth," tells
us that a beacon was formerly placed on the top of
the tower of this church ; and in Hollar's view of
the palace, engraved in 1647, and also in his view
of London from Lambeth, it is plainly shown.
The beacon also appears in the view of Lambeth
from the Thames in " Nichols' History," and in a

view taken by a Florentine artist in the suite ot
Cosmo, Duke of Tuscany, in 1669. There are no
remains of it in existence now.

Readers of English history will not have for-
gotten that it was under the shelter of the old
church tower, on a wet and dreary night in
December, 1688, that Mary of Modena, having
crossed the river from the Horsefcrry in a tiny
boat, sat crouching, with her infant son in her
arms, till the companions of her flight could find
the coach that should convey her safely to Graves-
end. Miss A. Strickland draws a touching picture
of the scene. " On that spot, which has been
rendered a site of historic interest by this affecting
incident, the beautiful and unfortunate consort of
the last of our Stuart kings remained sitting, with
her infant son fondly clasped to her bosom . . .
Mary Beatrice looked back with streaming eyes
towards the royal home where her beloved consort
remained, lonely and surrounded with jjerils, and
vainly endeavoured to trace out the lights of White-
hall among those that were reflected from the
opposite shore along the dark rolling river." It
is a satisfaction to know that her patience was
rewarded, and that she and her child succeeded
in escaping to France.

CHAPTER XXXIII.
VAU.XHALL.

*' Those green retreats
Where fair Vauxliall bedecks her sylvan seats." — L(rt'es 0/ tJie Triangles.

First recorded Notice of the Gardens— The Place originally known as the Spring Gardens— Evelyn's Visit to Sir Samuel Morland's House— Visit of
Samuel Pepys to the Spring Gardens— Addison's Account of the Visit of Sir Rj-er de Coverley to Vau.xhall — The Old Mansion of Copped
Hall— Description of Sir Samuel Morland's House and Grounds— The Place tak^^, by Jonathan Tyers, and opened for Public Entertainment
— Roubiliac's Statue of Handel — Reference to Vauxhall in Boswell's " Life of Johnson " — How Hogarth became connected with Vauxhall
Gardens— A Ridotto al /^reitv- Character of the Entertainments at Vauxhall a Century ago — Character of the Company frequenting the
Gardens— A Description of the Gardens as they appeared in the Middle of the Last Century— How Horace Walpole and his Friends visited
Vauxhall, and minced Chickens in a China Dish — Byron's Description of a Ridotto al Fresco— Y\ft\A\nz'^ Account of Vauxhall — Sunday
Morning Visitors to Vauxhall— VauxhaH in the Height of its Glory— Goldsmith's Description of a Visit— Sir John Dinely and other
Aristocratic Visitors— How Jos Sedley drank Rack Punch at Vauxhall- Wellington witnessing the Battle of Waterloo over again— The
Gardens in the Last of their Glory— Hayman's Picture of the " Milkmaids on May-day " — Lines on Vauxhall, by Ned Warti the Younger —
Balloon Ascents — Narrow Escape of the Gardens from Destruction by Fire — Closing of the Gardens, and Sale of the Property.

We are now on gossiping ground, and therefore we
can scarcely be severely blamed if we dwell for a
short space on the stories of past times. Quitting
the precincts of Lambeth Palace, and following the
course of the river for a short distance south-west,
we arrive at Vauxhall Bridge Road ; and then,
after passing under the South-Western Railway, we
reach the spot where, till about i860, stood the
grand entrance to Vauxhall Gardens — that para-
dise of enchantment, with its houris in the illumi-
nated walks, and the lamps and the fireworks,
and the water-works, and the hermit in his ca\'e.

and the Rotunda, and Madame Saqui on the tight-
rope, and fowl and ham and rack punch in the
boxes, and poke bonnets, and scanty skirts, and roll
collars, and swallow-tailed coats; — all these have
passed away, and left not a vestige behind. Times
have indeed changed. If there were now a Prince
Regent and a batch of Allied Sovereigns, and a
Duke of WeUington and a Field-Marshal Blucher,
they would not go to an entertainment to show them-
selves to the people ; yet, in the great days of Vau.x-
hall, those renowned personages did pay the gardens
an evening visit, and were duly and right loyally

448

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Va'.ixhall.

clieered and mobbed by tlie crowd who had paid
for admission. When such great persons were not
present, there were songstresses by the score — Mrs.
Bland, the sweet-voiced, dumpy httle ballad singer ;
and Dignum the mellifluous ; and Madame Vestris ;
and sometimes, if we mistake not, the queenly
Kitty Stephens and glorious Incledon. But we are
anticipating the order of events, and must return
to plain historical details.

The fust authentic notice of these gardens occurs
in a record of the Duchy of Cornwall, dated in
1615, at which time the property was vested in
Jane, widow of John Vaux, one of whose daughters
subsequently married Barlow, Bishop of Lincoln.
The residence belonging to tlie estate was then
called Stock-dens, or Stoc-dens, and the grounds
about it were known as " The Spring Gardens," a
name which they retained in theory and in official
documents to the very last, though popularly known
as " Vauxhall Gardens." The exact date at which
these grounds were first opened to the public is
now involved in obscurity. Wycherley, about the
year 1677, speaks of taking " a syllabub at the
New Spring Garden at Vauxhall."

The place, however, is mentioned by John
Evelyn in his "Diary," under date 2nd July, 1661,
as " the new Spring Garden at Lambeth, a pretty-
contrived plantation." Two years later it is
described as being laid out in squares " enclosed
with hedges of gooseberries, within wliich are roses,
beans, and asparagus;" from which it may be
inferred that in the early part of the reign of
Charles IL these gardens were practically useful,
and not a mere resort of pleasure-seekers.

Manning and Bray, the historians of Surrey,
. ascribe the origin of the gardens to the "ingenious"
Sir Samuel Morland, who certainly had a mansion
in this neighbourhood in 1675. lu'elyn, in i6Si,
mentions a vi.sit which he paid to Sir Samuel here
" to see his house and mechanics." A foot-note is
added, stating that in his house here Sir Samuel
had built and fitted up a large room, which he had
furnished in a sumptuous manner, for concerts and
other gatherings, on the top of which was a "pun-
chinello holding a sun-dial." Me had constructed
also some fountains in his gardens. He was much
in favour with the king for services he had rendered
to him while abroad ; and his house bore the
reputation of being the place across the water to
which the " merry monarch " and his gay ladies
would often repair on fine evenings.

Notwithstanding that when first opened, these
gardens were commonly called " The New Spring
Garden at Lambeth," so far! as we know, they bear
no trace of a "walcr spring," or /rf li'caii, such as

we have described in our account of the Spring
Gardens at Charing Cross.* The idea of the place
being borrowed, however, from the gardens at
Charing Cross, it would seem that . a similar name
was given to it, though meaningless.

Samuel Pepys, in his " Diary," under date May
28th, 1667, mentions these gardens in the following
terms :— "Went by water to Fox {sic) Hall, and
there walked in Spring Gardens. A great deal of
company ; the weather and gardens pleasant, and
cheap going thither : for a man may go to spend
what he will, or notliing at all : all is one. Bat
to hear the nightingale and other birds, and here
fiddles and there a harp, and here a Jew's harp,
and there laughing, and there [to see] fine people
walking, is very diverting."

In the space at our disposal it would be impos-
sible to quote half the passages to be found in our
modern classical writers which refer to these gar-
dens in their hey-day of fashion. That they existed
as a place of public amusement soon after Evelyn
made the above-mentioned entry in his " Diary ''
is clear from the Spectator, No. 383, dated May,
1 71 2. Readers of that delightful work will not
readily forget Addison's account of Sir Roger de
Coverley's visit with him to Vauxhall ; how he
" took boat " at the Temple Stairs, and was rowed
thither by a waterman with only one leg ; how
sadly, on his way up the Thames, he contrasted the
many spires of the City churches with the scantiness
of such edifices westward of Temple Bar, and what
badinage he had to put up with from the other
Thames watermen en roiitc for his destination.
They will not forget his description of the place :
— "The Spring Gardens are exquisitely pleasant
at this time of the year. When I considered
the fragrancy of the walks and bowers, with the
choirs of birds that sang upon the trees, and the
tribe of people that walked uniier their shade, I
could not but look upon the ])lace as a kind of
Mahometan ])aradise ;" nor will they forget how
the gardens put Sir Roger in mind of a little
coppice by his liouse in the country, which his
chaplain used to call " an aviary of nightingales."
And they will also call to mind how the worthy
knight and his companion concluded their walk
with a modest glass of Burton ale and a slice of
hung beef, the fragments of whidi he ordered the
waiter to carry to the waterman tliat had l)Ut
one leg.

Such is our earliest notice of Vauxhall as a public
garden, written, most probably, not long after its
opening. The name of the place was originally

• See Vol. IV., p. 77.

Vauxhall.]

THE MANOR OF COPPED HALL.

449

Faux Hall, which in process of time has become
corrupted into the better known appellation of
Vauxhall. In the days of King John, Fulk, or
Faulk de Brent, a stout Norman knight, held a
manor on this spot ; and the house was afterwards
known as Copped, or Copt Hall. It is so called
in Norden's "Survey" (1615), where a residence
is described as being "opposite to a capital man-
sion called Fauxe Hall." The latter, Lysons
imagines, was the ancient manor-house, which,
being afterwards pulled down or otherwise lost,
the name was transferred to Copt Hall. This house
was the residence of Sir Thomas Parry, Chancellor
of the Duchy of Lancaster, and was held by him
of the Manor of Kennington. Here the ill-fated
Arabella Stuart, whose misfortune it was to be too
nearly alhed to the Crown, remained prisoner for
twelve months, under the custody of Sir Thomas.*
In the Parliamentary Survey taken after the execu-
tion of Charles I., the mansion is described as
" a capital messuage called Vauxhall, alias Copped
Hall, bounded by the Thames : being a fair dwell-
ing-house, strongly built, of three storeys high, and
a fair staircase breaking out from it of nineteen
feet square."

In the sixteenth century it is asserted that the
place belonged to the family of Fauxe, or Vaux.
The name of Thomas, the second son of Lord
Vaux (1520-60), is not unknown as a poet; he is
mentioned in Johnson's " Lives of the Poets ;" but
whether he ever lived here we have no authority
for deciding. Pennant, with more rashness than is
his wont, considers that " Vauxhall " was a cor-
ruption of " Faux Hall," and that it was called
after the celebrated Guy Fawkes, of gunpowder-
plot celebrity, who lived here, and, as Dr. Ducarel
imagined, owned the manor. Following up this
mistaken idea in all the simplicity of good faith.
Pennant adds, with a touch of bitterness, " In foreign
parts a colonnc iiifame would have been erected on
the spot ; but the site is now (1790) occupied by
Marble Hall and Cumberland Tea Gardens, and
several other buildings." Mention is made of the
place by Pepys in 1663, when he tells us how tjiat,
on his return from Epsom to London, he and his
companion "set up "their horses at " Fox Hall,"
and returned home by water from Lambctli
Stairs.

There does not appear to be any foundation for
the tradition that the renowned Guy had anything
to do with Faux Hall ; but the story received some
support from the fact that the gunpowder con-
spirators had a house in Lambeth where they

* See Vol. v., p. 404.

stored their powder, as we have stated in a former
chapter.t

The mansion was sold in 1652, but subsequently
reverted to the Crown at the Restoration. After
passing through various hands, in the year 1675
Sir Samuel Morland obtained a lease of Vauxhall
House, as it was then called, made it his residence,
and considerably improved the premises.

Aubrey, in his "Antiquities of Surrey," informs
us that Sir Samuel Morland " built a fine room at
Vauxhall, the inside all of looking-glass, and foun-
tains very jjleasant to behold ; which," he adds,
" is much visited by strangers. It stands in the
middle of the garden, covered with Cornish slate,
on the point whereof he placed a punchinello,
very well carved, which held a dial, but the winds
have demolished it." " The house," says a more
modern author. Sir John Hawkins, " seems to have
been rebuilt since the time that Sir Samuel Mor-
land dwelt in it ; with a great number of stately
trees, and laid out in shady walks, it obtained the
name of Spring Gardens ; and the house being con-
verted into a tavern or place of entertainment, it
was frequented by the votaries of pleasure."

From this period to that of the visit of Addison
and Sir Roger nothing appears to be known con-
cerning Vauxhall ; nor again from that time till the
year 1732, when the house and gardens came into
the possession of a gentleman named Jonathan
Tyers, who opened it with an advertisement of a
" ridotto al fresco " — a term to which the people
of this country had till that time been strangers.
These entertainments were several times repeated
in the course of the summer, and numbers resorted
to partake of them, which encouraged the pro-
prietor to make his garden a place of musical
entertainment for every evening during the summer
season. To this end he was at great expense in
decorating the gardens with paintings ; he engaged
an excellent band of musicians, and issued silver
tickets for admission at a guinea each ; and re-
ceiving great encouragement, he set up an organ
in the orchestra ; and in a conspicuous part of the
gardens erected a fine statue of Handel, the work
of Roubiliac. With reference to this piece of
sculpture, a writer in the y]///w/- (1830) observes: —
"The first work which can with certainty be
ascribed to Roubiliac is that statue of Handel made
for Vauxhall Gardens. He wished to give a lively
transcript of the living man, and he fully ac-
complished what he undertook. He has exhibited
the eminent composer in the act of rapturous
meditation when the music had fully awakened up

t See antr, p. 425.

45"

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

rVanxhan.

his soul. His gladness of face and agitation of
body tell us that the sculptor imagined Handel's
finest strains to have been conceived amidst con-
tortions worthy of the Cumean Sybil. Though
every button of his dress seems to have sat for its
likeness, and every button-hole is finished with the
fastidiousness of a fashionable tailor, the clothes
are infected with the agitation of the man, and
are in staring disorder. It did not remain long at

Mr. Barrett, Duke Street, Westminster.' From
Mr. Barrett's hands the statue found its way, after
various vicissitudes of fortune, to a house in Dean
Street, where it awaits a fresh purchaser."

The son of the original proprietor of these
gardens, Thomas Tyers, having been bred for the
bar, became one of Dr. Johnson's friends, and,
indeed, published a biographical sketch of him,
which is now forgotten. He likewise published

THE OLU MANOR-HOUSE AT VAUXHAI.l. AliOL 1

Vauxhall, but the cause of its removal has not been
stated. 'It stood,' says Smith, 'in 1744, on the
south side of the gardens, under an enclosed lofty
arch, surmounted by a figure playing the violoncello,
attended by two boys ; and it was then screened
from the weather by a curtain, which was drawn
up when the visitors arrived. The ladies then
walked in these and Mary-le-bone Gardens in their
hoops, sacques, and caps, as they appeared in
their own drawing-rooms ; whilst the gentlemen
were generally uncovered, with their hats under
their arms, and swords and bags. The statue,
after being moved to various situations in the
garden.s, was at length conveyed to the house of
Mr. Barrett, of .Stockwcil. and from thence to the
entrance-hall of the residence of his son, the Rev.

sketches of Pope and Addi.son, and a work of
higher pretension, " Tolitical Conferences." He
is pleasantly, though somewhat contemptuously,
described in No. 48 of the Idler, under the
sobriijud of " Tom Restless."

Considering that Dr. Johnson was so frequent a
visitor at the gardens, it is astonishing that there
should be so few references to tlicui in the burly
Doctor's life by Boswell.

" That excellent place of amusement," writes
Johnson, " which must ever be an estate to its
proprietor, as it is ])eculiarly adapted to the taste
of the Englisli nation ; there being a mixture of
curious show, gay exhibition, music, vocal and
instrumental, not too refined for the general ear,
for all which only a shilling is paid ; and, though

VIEWS IN VAUXHALL GARDENS.
I. Fountain at Back of Orchestra. 2. Ruins at End of Walk. 3. The Orchestra.

5, Old Entrance to Vauxhall Gardens. 6. Back of Orchestra.

4. Neptune's Fountain.

452

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Vauxhall.

last not least, good eating and drinking for those
who choose to purchase that regale."

Boswell, in his notes, tells us that in the summer
of 1792, additional and more expensive decorations
having been introduced, the price of admission was
doubled, and adds his own disapproval of the plan,
on the ground that a number of the honest com-
monalty were thereby excluded. Mr. J. Wilson
Croker, in his edition of Boswell, adds that the
admission was subsequently raised to four shillings,
" without improving either the class of company or
the profits of the proprietors."

Among Tyers's numerous friends was Hogarth,
who, as we have already seen, had a residence in
this neighbourhood,* and who, to add to the attrac-
tions of the place, advised Tyers to decorate the
boxes witli paintings. For the following account
of the way in which Hogarth, as a painter, became
connected with the gardens, we are indebted to a
selection of anecdotes published under the title of
" Art and Artists : " — " Soon after his marriage,
Hogarth had summer lodgings at South Lambeth,
and hence became intimate with Jonathan Tyers,
the proprietor of Vau-xhall Gardens. On passing
the tavern which stood at the entrance, one
morning, Hogarth saw Tyers, and, observing him
to be very melancholy, asked him, ' How now,
Master Tyers ? why so sad this morning ? ' ' Sad
times these. Master Hogarth,' replied Tyers ;
' and my reflections were on a subject not
likely to brighten a man's countenance. I was
thinking which is the easiest death, hanging or
drowning.' ' Oh ! ' said Hogarth, ' is it come to
that ? ' ' Very nearly, I assure you,' replied Tyers.
' Then,' said Hogarth, ' the remedy that you think
of applying is not likely to mend the matter ; don't
hang or drown yourself to-day, my friend. I have
a thought that may save the necessity of either,
and will communicate it to you if you will call on
me to-morrow morning at my studio in Leicester
l''iel'-]s.'t The interview took place, and the result
was the concocting and getting up of the tirst
' Ridotto al Fresco,' which was very successful ;
one of the new attractions being the embellishment
(jf the pavilions of the gardens by Hogartli's own
pencil. 'I'hus he drew the ' Four l\irts of the
Day,' whicii liayman copied, and the two scenes
of ' Evening ' and ' Night,' with portraits of Henry
VHI. and Anne Roleyn. Hayman, it sliould be
stated here, was one of the earliest members of the
Royal Academy, and when young was a scene-
jjainter at Drury Lane Theatre. Hogarth at this
time was in prosperity, and assisted Tyers more

essentially even than by the few pieces which he
painted for the gardens ; and in return for this
good service Tyers presented the painter with a
gold ticket of admission in perpetuity for himself
and his friends, which was handed down to
Hogarth's descendants — the ticket admitting six
persons, or, in the current language of the day,
'one coach' — that is, one coachful."

Malcolm, in his "Anecdotes of London," tells
us that the first notice of tlie gardens which he had
been able to find in the newspapers, was in June,
1732, when the " Ridotto al Fresco " is mentioned
as having been given here. The company were
estimated at 400 persons, in the proportion of ten
men to one woman ; and he tells us that most of
them wore dominos, lawyers' gowns, and masks,
i and other disguises, though many were without
either. "The company," Malcolm adds, "retired
between three or four in the morning, and order
was preserved by 1 00 soldiers who were stationed
at the entrance " — a precaution which seems to
explain very significantly the character of the
company whom the worthy proprietor was led to
expect.

Though Pepys tells us that a visit to these
gardens was not expensive, yet Bonnell Thornton
furnishes a ludicrous account of a stingy old citizen
loosing his purse-strings in order to treat his wife
and fomily to Vauxhall ; and Colin's description
to his wife of " Greenwood Hall, or the pleasures
of Spring Gardens," gives a lively picture of what
this modern Arcadia was something more than a
century ago.

Grosely, in his " Tour to London," writes (with
reference to Vauxhall and Ranelagh J) : — " These
entertainments, which begin in the month of May,
are continued every night. They bring together
persons of all ranks and conditions ; and amongst
these a considerable number of females, whose
charms want only that cheerful air, which is the
flower and ([uintessence of beauty. These places
serve equally as a rendezvous either for business or
intrigue. They form, as it were, private coteries ;
there you see fathers and mothers, with their
children, enjoying domestic happiness in the midst
of public diversions. The luiglisli assert that such
entertainments as these can never subsist in France,
on account of llie levity of the people. Certain
it is that those of Vauxhall and Ranelagh, which
are guarded only by outward decency, are con-
ducted without tumult and disorder, which often
disturb the public diversions of France. I do not
know whether the English are gainers thereby;

* See nnte, p. 34a

t See Vol. III., p. 167-

t See Vol. v., p. 77.

\aiixlull.]

A TRIP TO VAUXMALL.

453

the joy which they seem in search of at those
places does not beam through their countenances ;
they look as grave at Vauxhall and Ranelagh as at
the Bank, at church, or a private club. All persons
there seem to say what a young English noble-
man said to his governor, 'Am f as joynus as I
should he ? ' "

When we endeavour to re-people these gardens
with the gay crowds which a century ago frequented
them, so light of heart and buoyant of spirit, we
cannot help remembering the words of Dr. Johnson
on the subject of their rival, Ranelagh, uttered in
one of his gravest moods — " Alas, sir I these are
only struggles for happiness ! When I first entered
Ranelagh, it gave to my mind an expansion of gay
sensation such as I never experienced anywhere
else ; but as Xerxes wept when he viewed his
immense army, and considereil that not one of
that great multitude would be alive a hundred
years afterwards, so it went to my heart to consider
that there was not one in all that brilliant circle
that was not afraid to go home and think."

Perhaps the best defence of such places of
public resort as Vauxhall is to be found in the
well-known words of Dr. Johnson, though spoken
of another place. Having come from the Pan-
theon, Boswell said there was not half-a-guinea's
worth of pleasure in seeing that place. Joliiisoii :
" But, sir, there is half-a-guinea's worth of inferiority
to other people in not having seen it." Boswell :
" I doubt, sir, whether there are many happy people
here." Johnson : " Yes, sir, there are many happy
people here. There are many people here who
are watching hundreds, and who think hundreds
are watching them."

Vauxhall Gardens would appear at first to have
served as a substitute for the old Spring Gardens
nt Charing Cross, when, thanks to the Puritans,
the latter ceased to be a place of public entertain-
ment, and began to be covered with private resi-
dences. After the Restoration, builders invaded
Spring Gardens, and its name, and its " good-will ''
too, was transferred to Vauxhall. Except the
" spring," the amusements were nearly the same as
in the old garden. The " close walks " were an
especial attraction for other reasons than the
nightingales, which, in their proper season, warbled
in the trees. " The windings and turnings in the
little wilderness," observes Tom Brown, " are so
intricate that the most experienced mothers have
often lost themselves here in looking for their
daughters."

In the time of Addison, as we have already
seen, these gardens continued to be noted for their
nightingales and for their sirens ; and Sir Roger

de Coverley is represented as wishing that there
were more of the former and fewer of the latter, in
which case he would have been a more frequent
customer. In our day, and, indeed, during the
last half century of their existence, the gardens
grew worse off for nightingales than ever, while
the undesirable element showed no tendency to
diminish in numbers.

It appears from a notice by the proprietor, in

1736, that, " being ambitious of obliging the polite
and worthy part of the town," at first he admitted
the public by shilling tickets, in order " to keep
away such as were not fit to mix with those persons
of quality, ladies and gentlemen, and others, who
should honour him with tlieir company;" but that
owing to the misconduct of his numerous servants,
and also for other reasons, he had resolved to
abandon the plan, and to take the shillings at the
gate. But two years later the ticket-system was
revived; for in March, 1738, the following notice
was issued by the master of the gardens : — " Tlie
entertainment will be opened at the end of April
or the beginning of May (as the weather permits),
and continue three months, or longer, with the
usual illuminations and bands of music, and several
considerable additions and improvements to the
organ. A thousand tickets only will be delivered
out, at 24s. each ; the silver of every ticket to be
worth 3s. 6d., and to admit two persons every
evening, Sundays excepted, during the season.
Every person coming without a ticket to pay is.
each time for admittance. No servants in livery to
walk in the garden. All subscribers are warned
not to permit their tickets to get into the hands of
persons of evil repute, there being an absolute
necessity to exclude all such." The Watermen's
Company gave notice at the same time that two
of their beadles would attend at Vauxhall Stairs
from five till eleven nightly, to prevent impositions
by members of their society.

In the absence of bridges, the chief access to
the gardens, at that period, was necessarily by
water, and a gay and animated scene the Thames
must have presented at such times. The author
of " A Trip to Vauxhall," published in the year

1737, describes his start from Whitehall Stairs in
the following terms : — •

" Lolling in state, with one on either side,
And gently falling with the wind and tide.
Last night, the evening of a sultry day,
I sailed triumphant on the liquid way.
To hear the fiddlers of 'Spring Gardens ' play ;
To see the walks, orchestr.is, colonnades,
The lamps and trees, in mingled lights and shades.
The scene so luw, with pleasure and surprise,
Feasted awhile our ravished ears and eyes.

454

OtD AND NEW LONDON.

[Vaikhall.

The motley crowd we next with care sur\'ey.
The young, the old, the splenetic, and gay,
The fop emasculate, the rugged brave,
All jumbled here, as in the common grave."

This poem is worth reading, not on account ot its
intrinsic merits, but for the sake of the satirical
allusions to the company which it contains, and
which, being of a contemporary date, give a
graphic account of the manners of the place and
time. The frontispiece, too, is curious, repre-
senting the gardens and the orchestra, with waiters
wearing badges, and carrying bottles of wine to the
company.

Vau.xhall Gardens, until about the year 1730,
must have resembled one of the tea-gardens of our
own time, being " planted with trees and laid out
into walks ; " and it was not until the above date
that it became exclusively a place of evening enter-
tainment ; for Addison refers to it as the " Spring
Garden," and speaks of " the choirs of birds that
sang upon the trees." A fuller account of the
gardens is given in a letter professedly written by
a foreigner to his friend at Paris, and which was
published in the Champion of the 5 th of August,
1742. The writer had previously visited Ranelagh,
and in reference to that place says, " I was now
(at Vau.xhall) introduced to a place of a very
different kind from that I had visited the night
before — vistas, woods, tents, buildings, and com-
pany, I had a glimpse of, but could discover
none of them distinctly, for which reason I began
to repine that we had not arrived sooner, when all
in a moment, as if by magic, every object was
made visible— 'I should rather say, illustrious — by a
thousand lights finely disposed, which were kindled
at one and the same signal, and my ears and my
eyes, head and heart, were captivated at once.
Right before extended a long and regular vista.
On my right hand I stepped into a delightful
grove, wild, as if planted by the hand of Nature,
under the foliage of which, at eijual distances, I
found two similar tents, of such a contrivance and
form as a painter of genius and judgment would
choose to adorn his landscape with. Farther on,
still on my right, through a ncjble triumphal arch
with a grand curtain, still in the picluresiiue style,
artificially thrown over it, an excellent statue of
Handel (Roubiliac's) appears in the action of
playing upon the lyre, which is finely set off by
various greens, which form in miniature a sort of
woody theatre. The grove itself is bounded on
three sides, except the intervals made by the two
vistas which lead to and from it with a jilain
but handsome colonnade, divided into different
departments to receive different companies, and

distinguished and adorned with paintings which,
though slight, are well fancied, and have a very
good effect. In the middle centre of the grove,
fronting a handsome banqueting-room, the very
portico of which is adorned and illuminated with
curious lustres of crystal glass, stands the orchestra
(for music likewise here is the soul of the entertain-
ment) ; and at some distance behind it a pavilion
that beggars all description — I do not mean for
the richness of the materials of which it is com-
posed, but for the nobleness of the design, and
the elegance of the decorations with which it is
adorned."

Perhaps there was not often a gayer or more
lively evening spent at Vauxhall than that of the
longest day in June, 1750, when, as Horace Walpole
tells his friend Montagu, Lady C. Petersham made
up a party, including himself, Lord March (after-
wards the Duke of Queensberry, " Old Q."), Mr.
O'Brien, the Duke of Kingston, Lord Orford, Mr.
Whitehead, Harry Vane, the " pretty " Miss Beau-
clerk, the "foolish" Miss Sparre, and Miss Ashe,
a lively girl of high parentage on her father's side,
known in society as " The Pollard Ashe." The
gossiping Walpole narrates the sallies of wit and
fun with which they passed the time pleasantly
away, and adds : " We minced seven chickens into
a china dish, which Lady Caroline stewed over a
lamp with three pats of butter and a flagon of water,
stirring, rattling, and laughing, and we every moment
expecting to have the dish fly about our ears. She
had brought Betty, the fruit-girl, with hampers and
strawberries and cherries, and made her wait upon
us, and then made her sup by us at a little table."
It was on their way home on this memor.dile night
that they " picked up Lord Granby, arrived very
drunk from Jenny's Whim," as related by us in our
account of Chelsea.* We should much like to
have formed one of the party on this occasion, or
at all events to have occupied a box hard by, as
we should have been sure to have been highly
amused by the wit and repartee of the sprightly
demoiselles.

Walpole has also described, in another letter to
his friend Montagu, an evening which he spent
with Mr. Conway in the next season at a ridolto
al fresco at Vauxhall, for which the entrance was
ten shillings. He describes the crowd of visitors
and of coaches, and of men mas(iuerading in the
dress of Turks, &c. In explanation of the term
" Ridotto," we nwy refer our readers to Lord
Byron, who in his " Beppo" thus covertly satirises
Vauxhall : —

•SseVol. v., p. 45.

Vauxhall.]

OLIVER GOLDSMITH'S VISIT TO VAUXHALL.

455

" They went to the Ridotto — 'tis a hall

Where people dance, and sup, and dance again ;

Its proper name, perhaps, were a masqued ball;
But that's of no importance to my strain.

'Tis, on a smaller scale, like our Vauxhall,
Excepting that it can't be spoilt by rain.

The company is mix'd — the phrase I quote is

As much as saying, ' They're below your notice.' "

The " illuminated saloons and groves of Vaux-
hall," as they arc styled in " Merrie England in
the Olden Time," are thus celebrated by Fielding
in his " Amelia : " — " The extreme beauty and
elegance of this place is well known to almost every
one of my readers, and happy is it for me that it is
so, since to give an adequate account of it would
exceed my power of description. To delineate the
particular beauties of these gardens vVould indeed
require as much pains, and as much paper too, as
to rehearse all the good actions of their master,
whose life proves the truth of an observation which
1 have read in some other writer, that a truly
elegant taste is generally accompanied with an
excellency of heart ; or, in other words, that true
virtue is indeed nothing else but true taste." The
gardens, no doubt, were made not only an elegant
place of enjoyment, but also as innocent as the
manners and customs of the times would permit ;
but, nevertheless, the season of 1759, and again
that of 1763, appear to have been notorious for the
bad behaviour of the company, in spite of the pro-
prietor's laudable efforts to keep the place decent
and respectable. In the latter year, complaints
having been made on the subject on the day fixed
by the magistrates for licensing the public places
of amusement, the proprietor pledged himself that
the dark walks should thenceforward be lighted,
and that a sufficient number of watchmen should
be provided to keep the peace.

The gardens are described in a very dry and
matter-of-fact manner by Northouck, who wrote in
1773. From him it appears that the visitors were
always most orderly and " respectable," and that
the illuminations, &c., were almost always over by
ten o'clock. In respect of early hours it is to be
feared that we have not much improved on our
grandfathers.

Angelo, in his " Remuiiscences," published in
the reign of George IV., thus describes the gardens
as he had known them in his youth : — " I remember
the time when Vauxhall (in 1776, the price of
admission being then only one shilling) was more
a bear-g.arden than a rational place of resort, and
most particularly on the Sunday mornings. It was
then crowded from four to six with gentry, girls of
the town, apprentices, shop-boys, &c. Crowds of
nti.cens were to be seen trudiring home with their

wives and children. Rowlandson, the artist, and
myself have often been there, and he has found
plenty of employment for his pencil. The chef
d'cviivre of his caricatures, which is still in print,
is his drawing of Vauxhall, in which he has intro-
duced a variety of characters known at the time,
particularly that of my old schoolfellow, Major
Topham, the ' macaroni ' of the day. One curious
scene he sketched on the spot purposely for me.
It was this. A citizen and his family are seen all
seated in a box eating supper, when one of the
riff-raff in the gardens throws a bottle in the middle
of the table, breaking the dishes and the glasses.
The old man swearing, the wife fainting, and the
children screaming, afforded full scope for his
humorous pencil.

" Such night-scenes as were then tolerated are
now become obsolete. Rings were made in every
part of the gardens to decide quarrels ; it now no
sooner took place in one quarter than, by a con-
trivance of the light-fingered gentry, another row
was created in another quarter, to attract the crowd
away.

" Mrs. Weichsell (Mrs. Billington's mother) was
the principal female singer. The men were Joe
Vernon, of Drury Lane Theatre, &c. ; Barthelmon,
leader of the band ; Fisher, hautboy ; and Mr.
Hook, conductor and composer. The dashers of
that day, instead of returning home in the morning
from Vauxhall, used to go to the 'Star and Garter'
at Richmond. . . . On week-days I have seen
many of the nobility — particularly the Duchess of
Devonshire, &c. — with a large party, supping in the
rooms facing the orchestra, French horns playing
to them all the time."

Vauxhall in its best days was frequented by all
the successive generations of humorists, from
Addison down to Hogarth and Oliver Goldsmith ;
and by literary men, from Dr. Johnson down to
Macaulay, George Hanger (Lord Coleraine), Cap-
tain Gronow, Lord ^Villiam Lennox, Mr. Grantley
Berkeley, Douglas Jerrold, Leigh Hunt, Thackeray,
and Dickens.

Goldsmith, when he had achieved his first suc-
cesses in literature, and in those lucid intervals
when he had a good coat on his back and a few
shillings in his pocket, especially in the last year of
his life, was often a visitor here, along with Dr.
Johnson and Sir Joshua Reynolds, dressed in a
suit of velvet, of course. Goldsmith, describing a
"Visit to Vauxhall," about the year 1760, having
praised the singers and the very excellent band,
continues : — " The satisfaction which I received
the first night [of the season] I went there was
greater than my expectations ; I went in company

4S6

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Vaiuhall.

of several friends of both sexes, whose virtues I
regard and judgments I esteem. The music, the
entertainments, but particularly the singing, diffused
that good humour among us which constitutes the
true happiness of society." The same author's
account of these gardens in the "Citizen of the
World " contains some interesting passages. This
occurs in the description of the visit of the shabby
beau, the man in black, and one or two other

the visionary happiness of the Arabian lawgiver,
and lifted me into an ecstacy of admiration. ' Head
of Confucius,' cried I to my friend, ' this is fine !
this unites rural beauty with courtly magnificence.' "
A dispute between the two ladies now engages the
philosopher's attention. " Miss Tibbs was for
keeping the genteel walk of the garden, where, she
observed, there was always the very best companj' ;
the widow, on the contrary, who came but once a

Ill , 1 1 J^ M "^^ "li b *! \ _^

THE OLD VILLAGi. ui- VAl/XIIMX, WIIH ENTRANCE TO THE GARDENS, IN 1825.

persons, in company with the Chinese philosopher.
The beau's lady, Mrs. Tibbs, has a natural aversion
to the water, and the pawnbroker's widow, being
"a little in flesh," protests against walking; so a
coach is agreed on as the mode of conveyance.
" The illuminations," says the philosopher, " began
before we arrived, and I must confess that upon
entering the gardens I found every sense overpaid
with more than expected pleasure; the lights every-
where glimmering through scarcely-moving trees ;
the full-bodied concert bursting on the stillness of
night ; the natural concert of the birds in the more
retired part of the grove vying with that which was
formed by art ; the company, gaily dressed, looking
satisfaction ; and the tables spread with various
delicacies ; all conspired to fill my imagination witli

season, was for securing a good standing place to
see the water-works, which, slie assureil us, would
begin in less than an hour at furthest." The cascade
here referred to had been but recently introduced
into the gardens, and was tlien doubtless a great
attraction. A few years later the " water-works "
were greatly improved, and called the Cataract.
The effects then produced were very ingenious and
beautiful ; and at the signal for tlieir commence-
ment— the ringing of a bell at nine o'clock — there
was a general rush from all parts of the gardens.

Garrick was a frciiucnt visitor here, as alSo were
the fair Gunnings, wlio made a greater noise in the
world of fashion than any women since the days of
Helen. " They are declared," writes Walpole, " to
be the handsomest women alive ; they can't walk

Vauxhall.)

SIR JOHN DIN ELY.

457

in the park, or go to Vauxhall, but such crowds
follow them that they are generally driven away."

Another frequenter of Vauxhall Gardens was
that eccentric person, Sir Henry Bate Dudley ;
and amongst the regular visitors here towards the
close of the last century was the equally eccentric
baronet. Sir John Dinely, so well known for his
matrimonial advertisements. It was his habit to
attend here on public nights twice or three times

himself and his ample fortune to any angelic beauty
of a good breed, fit to become and willing to be
the mother of a noble heir, and keep up the name
of an ancient family ennobled by deeds of arms
and ancestral renown. Ladies at a certain period
of life need not apply. Fortune favours the bold.
Such ladies as this advertisement may induce
to apply or send their agents (but no servants
or matrons), may direct to me at the Castle,

THE IT.\LIAN WALK, VAUXHALL GARDENS.

every season, when he would parade up and down
the most public parts ; and it is said that when-
ever it was known that he was coming, the ladies
would flock in shoals to the gardens. He wore his
wig fastened in a curious manner by a piece of
stay-tape under his chin, and was always dressed
in a cloak with long flowing folds, and a broad hat
which looked as if it had started out of a picture
by Vandyke. In spite, however, of his persistent
efforts to gain a rich wife by advertisement, he
died a bachelor, an inmate of the poor knights'
quarters in Windsor Casde, in iSo8. Here is
one of his advertisements, taken from the Ipswich
Jour/ial of August 21st, 1802 : — "To the angelic
fair of the true English breed. Worthy notice.
Sir John Dinely, of Windsor Castle, recommends
27©

Windsor. Happiness and pleasure are agreeable
objects, and should be regarded as well as honour.
The lady who shall thus become my wife will be
a baroness [query, baronetess], and rank accord-
ingly as Lady Dinely, of Windsor. Goodwill
and favour to all ladies of Great Britain ! pull
no caps on his account, but favour him with your
smiles, and pKans of pleasure await your steps.''
It should be added, that though his " ample
fortune " was moonshine, his title was genuine,
and not a sham.

Another frequent visitor to the gardens was
Lord Barrymore, whose pugilistic and other freaks
are related in amusing detail by Mr. Angelo in
his " Reminiscences." They are not, however,
sufficiently edifying to bear repeating here.

458

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Vauxhall,

Apparently the Princess of Wales was an
occasional visitor here during the time of her |
long-standing rupture with her husband ; such, at
all events, is the inference to be drawn from an
epigram on '■ a certain unexpected visit to a late
fetef in the Mornvt^ Herald for July 24, 18 13 : —

" ' Since not to dance, since not tu quaff,
Since not to taste our clieer, '
Says tipsy Dick, with many a laugli,
' Why comes the P*****ss here ? '

' I ken, ' says Sober, ' at a glance.
What lirings her to Vauxhall ;
She means, although she fines not dance,
Still to keep up tlie ball.' "

The following jcu cVcsprit will be found in the
Morning Chronulc, 1S13, headed, "Reason for
Absence from the Vauxhall Fete, given by an
Alderman to a Lady : " —

" ' Tlie Regent- was absent, because, my dear life.

He did not like meeting the world and — his wife.' "

Theodore Hook was a visitor to these gardens
till the end of his life ; and Samuel Rogers tells us,
in his " Table Talk," that he could just remember
going to Ranelagh or Vauxhall in a' coach with a
lady who was obliged to sit on a little stool placed
on the bottom of the vehicle, as the height of her
head-dress did not allow her to occupy the regular
seat.

Readers of Thackeray will not have forgotten
the visit paid — out of the season — to Vauxhall by
Mr. Pendennis, when he meets Captain Costigan,
and gains admission at the entrance for Fanny
Bolton, the pretty daughter of the porter of
"Shepherd's" Inn, and who, having never before
seen the gardens, is equally affected with wonder
and delight at the lamps and the company. And
those who have studied " Vanity Fair" will equally
well remember the " rack punch " whicli Mr. Jos
Sedley drank here, rather in excess, on his
memorable visit to the gardens, in company with
Rebecca Sharp, George Osborne, and Amelia
Sedley, the party who came in the coach from
Russell Square ; how Jos, in his glory, ordered
about the waiters, made the salad, uncorked the
champagne, carved the chickens, and, finally, drank
the .greater part of the liijuid refreshments, insist-
ing on a bowl of rack punch, for " everybody has
rack punch at Vauxhall." They will not have for-
gotten Thackeray's amusing sketch of the "hundred
thou.sand extra lights that were always lighted ; "
the "fiddler^ in cocked hats, who played ravishing
melodies under the gilded cockle-shell in the
midst of the gardens ; " the singers both of comic
and sentimental ballads, who " charmed the ears ; "
the country dances formed by bouncing cockneys

and cockneyesses, and executed amidst jumping,
thumping, and laughter ; the signal which announced
that Madame Saqui was about to mount skyward
on a slack rope, ascending to the stars ; the hermit
that always sat in the illuminated hermitage ; the
dark walks, so favourable to the interviews of
young lovers ; the pots of stout by the people in
shabby old liveries ; and the twinkling boxes, in
which the happy feeders made believe to eat slices
of almost invisible ham."

Vauxhall Gardens, down to a very late date, still
attracted " tlie upper ten thousand " — occasionally,
at least. \\'e are told incidentally, in Forster's m
" Life of Dickens," that one fiimous night, the ^|
29th of June, 1849, Dickens went there with Judge
Talfourd, Stanfield, and Sir Edwin Landseer. The
' Battle of A\'aterloo ' formed part of the entertain-
ment on that occasion. " We were astounded,"
writes Mr. Forster, " to see pass in immediately
before us, in a bright white overcoat, the 'great
duke ' himself, with Lady Douro on his arm, the
little Lady Ramsays by his side, and everybody
cheering and clearing the way for him. That the
old hero enjoyed it all tJiere could be no doubt,
and he made no secret of his delight in ' Young
Hernandez ; ' but the battle was tuideniably tedious ;
and it was impossible not to sympathise with the
repeatedly and audibly expressed wish of Talfourd
that ' the Prussians would come up ! ' " It must
have been one of the old duke's last appearances
in a place of amusement, as he lived only three
years longer.

A description of the gardens as they appeared
about this time, by a writer who frequented them
in the last decade of their glory, may not be out of
place here : — " The mode of entrance into the
gardens, which extend over about eleven acres, is
admirably calculated to enhance their extraordinary
effect on the first view. AVe step at once from the
passages into a scene of enchantment, such as in
our young days opened upon our eyes as we pored
over the magical pages of the ' Arabian Nights.'
It were indeed worth some sacrifice of time, money,
and convenience to see for once in a lifetime
that view. At first, one wide-extended and inter-
minable blaze of radiance is the idea impressed
upon the ilazzled beholder. As his eyes grow
accustomed to the place, he perceives the form
of the principal part of the gardens resolve itself
into a kind of long quadrangle, formed by four
colonnades wliich inclose an open space with
trees, called the Grove. On his right extends one
of the colonnades, some three hundred feet long,
with an arclied Gothic roof, where the groins are
marked by lines of lamps, shedding a yellow-golden

Vauxhall.]

DESCRIPTION OF YAUXHALL GARDENS.

45:^

light, and the pendants by single crimson lamps of
a larger size at the intersections. The effect of
this management is most superb. Near the eye
the lines or groins appear singly, showing their
purpose ; farther off, they grow closer and closer,
till at some distance the entire vista beyond appears
one rich blaze of radiance. In front, the visitor
looks across one of the shorter ends of the quad-
rangle, illuminated in a dififerent but still more
magnificent manner by a chandelier of great size,
formed of coloured lamps, and by various smaller
chandeliers. Still standing in the same place (at
the door of entrance), and looking across tlie
interior of the quadrangle called the Grove, midway
is seen the lofty orchestra, glittering all over with
the many-coloured lights diffused from innumerable
lamps. This was erected in 1735, and has itself
many interesting memories attached to it. Beneath
that vast shell which forms the roof or sounding-
board of the orchestra many of our greatest
vocalists and performers have poured forth their
strains to the delight of the crowded auditory in
front — Signor and Signora Storace, Mrs. Billington,
Miss Tyrer (afterwards Mrs. Liston), Incledon, j
Braham, and a host of others, at once rise to the |
memory. The Grove is illuminated not only by
the reflected light from the colonnades on either
side and by the orchestra, but by festoons of
lamps, gracefully undulating along the sides of the
colonnades from one end to the other. Among
the other attractions of the Grove, we find imme-
diately we step into it some beautiful plaster-casts
from the antique, the light colour of which forms
a fine contrast with the blackness of the neighbour-
ing trees and the solemn gloom of the sky above, j
which assumes a still deeper tinge when seen
under such circumstances. Immediately opposite
these, at the back of the short colonnade which
forms this end of the Grove, with elevated arches !
opening upon the colonnade, is the splendid room
originally called the Pavilion, now the Hall of
Mirrors, a title more appropriate as marking its
distinctive character, the walls being lined with
looking-glass. This is the principal supper-room.
Turning the corner, we enter upon the other of the
two principal colonnades, which is similarly illu- 1
minated. A little way down we find an opening
into the Rotunda, a very large and handsome
building, with boxes, pit, and gallery in the circular
part, and on one side a stage for the performance \
of ballets, &c. The pit forms also, when required, I
an arena for the display of horsemanship. At the
end of this colonnade we have on the right the
colonnade forming the other extremity of the
Grove, hollowed out into a semi-circular form, the .

space being fitted up somewhat in the manner of
a Turkish divan. On the left we find the more
distant and darker parts of the gardens. Here
the first spot that attracts our attention is a large
space, the back of which presents a kind of mimic
amphitheatre of trees and foliage, having in Iront
rockwork and fountains. From one of the latter
Eve has just issued, as we perceive by the beautiful
figure reclining on the grass above. Not far from
this place a fine cast of Diana arresting the flying
hart stands out in admirable relief from the dark-
green leafy background. Here, too, is a large
building, presenting in front the appearance of the
proscenium and stage of a theatre. Ballets, ]jer-
formances on the tight-rope, and others of a like
character, are here exhibited. The purpose of
the building is happily marked by the statues of
Canova's dancing-girls, one of which is placed on
each side of the area at the front. At the comer
of a long walk, between trees lighted only by single
lamps, spread at intervals on the ground at the
sides, is seen a characteristic representation of
Tell's cottage in the Swiss Alps. This walk is
terminated by an illuminated transparency, placed
behind a Gothic archway, representing the delicate
but broken shafts of some ruined ecclesiastical
structure, with a large stone cross — that character-
istic feature of the way-sides of Roman Catholic
countries. At right angles with this walk extends
a much broader one, with the additional illumina-
tion of a brilliant star ; and at its termination is
an opening containing a very imposing spectacle.
This is a representation, in a large circular basin
of water, of Neptune, with his trident, driving his
five sea-horses abreast, which are snorting forth
liquid streams from their nostrils ; these in their
ascent cross and intermingle in a very pleasing and
striking manner. The lustrous white and great
size of the figures are, like all the other works of
art in the gardens, admirably contrasted with the
surrounding features of the place. Passing on our
way the large building erected for the convenience
of filling the great balloon, and the area where the
fireworks are exhibited, we next enter the Italian
Walk, so called from its having been originally
decorated in the formal, exact style of the walks in
that country. This is a very noble promenade,
or avenue, of great length and breadth, crossed
every few yards by a lofty angular arch of lamps,
with festoons of the same brilliant character hang-
ing from it, and having statues interspersed on each
side throughout. On quitting this walk at its
farthest extremity, we find ourselves in the centre
of the long colonnade opposite to that we quitted
in order to examine the more remote parts of the

460

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Vaushaa.

gardens." The inner side of each of the long
colonnades was occupied by innumerable supper-
boxes, in some of which, down to the very last, re-
mained the pictures of which we have spoken
above.

"One of the subjects selected by Mr. Jonathan
Tyers for the artists who decorated the supper-boxes
in Vauxhall Gardens," writes Mr. J. T. Smith, in his
'• Book for a Rainy Day," "was that of ' Milkmaids
on May-day.' In that picture (which, with the rest,
painted by Hayman and his pupils, has lately dis-
appeared) the garland of plate was carried by a
man on his head ; and the milkmaids, who danced
to the music of a wooden-legged fiddler, were ex-
tremely elegant. They had ruffled cutts, and their
gowns were not drawn through their pocket-holes,
as in my time ; their hats were flat, and not unlike
that worn by Peg Woffington, but bore a nearer
sha])e to those now in use by some of the fish-
women at Billingsgate. In the ' Cries of London,'
published by Tempest, there is a female, entitled
'A Merry Milkmaid.' She is dancing with a small
garland of plate on her head, and probably repre-
sented the fashion of Queen Anne's reign."

"May-day IS little observed in London at the
present time, except that the omnibus-drivers and
cabmen ornament their horses' heads with flowers
or rosettes, and their whips with bits of ribbon,
while Jack-in-the-Cireen and Maid Marian are to
be seen in the streets. Not so very long ago,
however, certainly within the present century, says
Robert Chambers, there was a somewhat similar
demonstration from the milkmaids. " A milch cow,
garlanded with flowers, was led along by a small
group of dairy-women, who, in light and fantastic
dresses, and with heads wreathed in flowers, would
dance around the animal to the sound of a violin
or clarionet. In the old gardens at Vauxhall there
used to be a picture representing the May-day
dance of the London milkmaids. In this Vauxhall
picture a man is represented bearing a cluster of
silver flagons on his head (these flagons used to
be lent by the pawnbrokers at so much an hour) ;
while three milkmaids are dancing to the music
of a wooden-legged fiddler, some chimney-sweeps
appearing as side figures."

"Ned Ward the Younger" wrote in tiie London
Magazine, many years ago, tlie following verses,
descriptive of the scene at that time to be witnessed
in these gardens ; —

" Well, Vauxhall is a wondrous scene 1
Where Cits in silks admirers glean

Under innuntierour. lamps —
Not safely lamps, by IIuni|)hry ni.ide :
Ry these full many a soul's lielrayed
I'o ruin I17 llie damps 1

" Here nut-brown trees, instead of green,
With oily trunks, and branches lean,

Cling to nine yellow leaves,
Like aged misers, that all day
Hang o'er their gold and their decay,

'Till Death of both bereaves !

"The sanded walk beneath the roof
Is dry for every dainty hoof.

And here the wise man stops ;
But beaux beneath the sallow clumps
Stand in the water with their /a«(/>f.

And catch the oiled drops.

" Tinkles the bell ! — away the herd
Of revellers rush, like buck or bird :

Each doth his way unravel
To where the dingy Drama holds
Her sombre reign, 'mid rain and colds,

And tip-toes, and wet gravel.

" The bo.tes show a weary set.
Who like to get serenely wet,

Within, and not without ;
There Goldsmith's widow you may see
Rocking a fat and fr.antic knee
At all the passing rout !

" Yes ! there she is ! — there, to the life ;
And Mr. Tibbs, and Tibbs's wife,

And the good man in black.
Belles run, for, oh ! the bell is ringing;
But Mrs. Tibbs is calmly singing,

.\nd sings till all come back !

" By that high dome, that trembling glows
With lamps, cocked hats, and ;rhi\'ering bows.

How many hearts are shook !
A feathered chorister is there,
Warbling some tender grove-like air,
Compos'd by Mr. Hook.

" And Dignum, too ! yet where is he ?
Shakes he no more his locks at me'?

Charms he no more night's car ?
He who bless'd breakfast, dinner, rout.
With ' linked sweetness long drawn out ; '

Why is not Dignum here ?

" Oh, Mr. Bish !— oh, Mr. Bish !
It is enough, by Heaven ! to disk

Thy garden dinners at ten !
What hast thou done with Mr. I). ?
What's thy ' Wine Company,' thy ' Tea,
\\'ilhout tiiat man of men ?

" Vet, blessed arc thy supiicr.-, given
(For money) something past eleven i

I.illiput chickens boiled ;
I'luccllas, w.arm from Vau.vhall ice.
And hams, that flit in airy slice,

And salads scarcely soiled.

" .See ! — the large, silent, pale-blue light
Flares, to le.ad all to where the bright

Lotid rockets rush on high,
Like a long comet, roaring through
The nighl, then melting into blue,

And ^tarriJig the dark sky !

\

¥

Vjuxhall.]

ALBERT SMITHS REMINISCENCES OF VAUXHALL.

461

" And Catherine-wheels, and crowns, and names
Of great men whizzing in bhie flames ;

Lights, like the smiles of liope ;
And radiant fiery palaces.
Showing the tops of all the trees,

And Hlackmore on the rope !

" 'I'hen late the hours, and sad the stay !
The passing cup, the wits astray.

The mv, and riot call !
The tussle, and the collar torn,
I'lie dying lamps, the breaking morn !

And hey for — Union Hall ! "

Dr. C. Mackay, in his " Thames and its Tribu-
taries," writes : — " P'amous is Vauxhall in all the
country round, for its pleasant walks, its snug
alcoves, its comic singers, its innumerable hghts,
its big balloons, its midnight fireworks, its thin
slices, its dear potations, its greedy waiters, and its
ladies fair and kind, and abounding with every
charm except the greatest that can adorn their
sex." The old guide-books almost always call
Vauxhall an "earthly paradise;" and Addison, as
we have seen above, speaks of it as a " Mahomedan
paradise;" whilst Murphy, in his Prologue to
" Zobeide," apostrophises —

" Sweet Ranelagh ! Vauxhall's enchanting shade ! "

Where in all England, it might be asked, was there
a spot more renowned among pleasure-seekers
than —

" This beauteous garden, but by vice maintained ? "

as Addison expresses it, paraphrasing the words of
Jttvenal.

Albert Smith gives us the following reminiscences
of Vauxhall Gardens in his " Sketches of London
Life," published in 1859: — "The earliest notions
I ever had of Vauxhall were formed from an old
coloured print which decorated a bed-room at
home, and represented the gardens as they were
in the time of hoops and high head-dresses, bag-
wigs and swords. The general outline was almost
that of the present day, and the disposition of the
orchestra, firework-ground, and covered walks the
same. But the royal property was surrounded by
clumps of trees and pastures ; shepherds smoked
their pipes where the tall chimneys of Lambeth
now pour out their dense encircling clouds, to
blight or blacken every attempt at vegetation in
the neighbourhood ; and where the rustics played
cricket at the water-side, massive arches and mighty
girders bear the steaming, gleaming, screaming
train on its way to the new terminus. I had a
vague notion, also, of the style of entertainments
there offered. In several old pocket-books and
magazines, that were kept covered with mould and
cobwebs in a damp spare-room closet, I used to

read the ballads put down as ' sung liy Mrs. Wrighten
at Vau.xhall.' They were not very extraordinary
compositions. Here is one, whicii may be taken
as a sample of all, called a ' Rondeau,' sung by
Mrs. Weichsel ; set by Mr. Hook : -

" ' -Maidens, let your lovers languish.

If you'd have them constant prove ;
Doubts and fears, and sighs and anguish.

Are tlie chains that fasten love,
Jacky woo'd, and I consented,

.Soon as e'er I heard his tale.
He with conquest quite contented,

Boasting, rov'd around the vale.
Maidens, let your lovers, St'c.

' Now he dotes on scornful Molly,
Who rejects him with disdain ;
Love's a strange bewitching folly.
Never pleased without some pain.
I Maidens, let your lovers, (Sr=c. '

" I was also told of hundreds of thousands of
lamps, and an attempt was made to imitate their
effect by pricking pinholes in the picture and
putting a light behind it — for the glass had disap-
peared at some remote period, and had never been

' replaced ; and for years I looked forward to going

[ to Vauxhall as a treat too magnificent ever to take

I place."

I He tells us that the time came, though not until
he was twelve years old, and then it was to cele-
brate his promotion into a higher forin at Merchant
Taylor's School. "Twenty years have gone by," he
writes, " since that eventful night, but the im-
jjression made upon me is as vivid as it was on
the following day. I remember being shown the
lights of the orchestra twinkling through the trees
from the road, and hearing the indistinct crash of
the band as I waited for all our party, literally
trembling with expectation at the pay place. Then
there came the dark passage, which I hurried
along with feelings almost of awe ; and finally the
bewildering coup d'oiil, as the dazzling walk before
the great supper-room, with its balloons, and
flags, and crowns of light — its panels of looking-
glass, and long lines of radiant stars, festoons,
and arches burst upon me and took away my
breath, with almost every other faculty. I could
not speak. I heard nothing that was said to
me ; and if anybody had afterwards assured me
that I entered the garden upon my head instead
of my heels I could scarcely have contradicted
thein. I have never experienced anything like the
intensity of that feeling but once since ; and that
was when I caught the first sight of London by
night from a great elevation, during the balloon
ascent last year which so nearly terminated in the

I destruction of all our party.

462

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Vauxhall.

" The entire evening was to me one scene of
continuous enchantment. The Battle of Waterloo
was being represented on the firework-ground, and
I could not divest myself of the idea that it was a
real engagement I was witnessing, as the sharp-
shooters fired from behind the trees, the artillery-
wagon blew up, and the struggle and conflagration
took place at Hougoumont. When I stood, years
afterwards, on the real battle-field I was disap-

Some idea of the place in 1827 may be gathered
from the remarks of a "wonder-struck boy," Master
Peter, given in Hone's " Table Book " :— " Oh,
my ! what a sweet place ! ^Vhy, the lamps are
thicker than the pears in our garden at Walworth '
What a load of oil they must burn ! " Master
Peter's wonderment did not stop at the lamps,
for he was equally enraptured by the orchestra and
the "marine cave;" and even the fireworks and

CHINESL 1 V\ ILl

pointed in its effect. I thought it ought to have
been a great deal more like Vauxhall.

" The supper was another great feature — eating
by the light of variegated lamps, with romantic
views painted on the walls, and music playing all
the time, was on a level with the most brilliant
entertainment described in the maddest, wildest
traditions of Eastern .story-tellers."

Mrs. Weichsel, mentioned in the above quota-
tion, was the favourite singer here a century ago >
she was the mother of the famous actress, Mrs.
Billington. Arne and Boycc composed music for
these gardens ; and nearly all the vocal celebrities
of the latter half of the last century and the first
thirty years of this appeared in the orchestra, where
all the instrumentalists wore cocked hats.

the refreshments are all "taken off" in the same
style.

Another writer about this time, in the IfW/a
(No. 63), gives vent to the following bantering re-
marks : — " I have heard that the master of Vau.xhall,
who so plentifully supplies beef for our bodily
refreshment, has, for the entertainment of those who
visit him at his country house, no less plentifully
provided for the mind ; where the guest may call
for a skull to chew upon the instability of human
life, or sit down to a collation of poetry, of wliich
the hangings of his room of entertainment take up,
as I am told, many yards. I wish that this grand
purveyor of beef and poetry would transport some
of the latter to his gardens at Vauxhall. Odes and
songs pasted upon the lamp-posts would be, I

464

OLD AND iNEW LONDON.

IVMIxlull.

believe, much more studiously attended to than the
price-list of cheese-cakes and custards ; and if the
unpictured boxes were hung round with celebrated
passages out of favourite poets, many a company
would find something to say, who would otherwise
sit cramming themselves in silent stupidity."

" Vauxhall Gardens have undergone," writes the
Rev. J. Richardson, in 1856, in his "Recollections,"
" little change within my recollection. The place
was certainly attended, fifty years ago, by people of
a more aristocratic rank than it has been of late
years. George lY., when Prince of Wales, and his
brothers, were formerly amongst the visitors ; and
their presence attracted other people, who tiiought
it expedient to do as their betters did, and imitate
the practices of the great. It was at that time
decorated with better pictures than the daubs by
which the walls of the boxes are now covered ;
but the amusements, the fireworks, and the illumina-
tion of the coloured lamps, were neither so much
diversified, so numerous, or so brilliant. I never
recollect it resembling the account given in the
Spectator, either as to the warbling of the birds or
the beauty of the groves, &c. The slices of ham
were as transparent fifty years ago as they are now ;
the chickens were as diminutive as now-a-days ;
the charges were equally extravagant. People did
not drink so much champagne, but they contrived
to get the lieadache with arrack-punch, and kettles
of ' burnt ' wine were in more request than brandy
and water. The vocal performances were better,
the concerts were better conducted ; the dancing
was much the same as now, and those who took
jiart in it were neither morally nor physically any
better than their successors." In his subsequent
pages Mr. Richardson sketches off some of the
"characters" connected with Vauxhall: such as
Bradbury, the clown ; Mr. Simpson, the arbiter
elega/itiarum ; and the Nepaulese princes, who, on
their visit to this country, were great patrons of
Vauxhall.

A good story is told in the Counoisieiir of a
century ago about a parsimonious old citizen going
to Vauxhall with his wife and daughters, and
grumbling at the dearness of the provisions and the
wafer-like thinness of the slices of ham. At every
mouthful the old fellow exclaims, " There goes two-
pence I there goes threejience I there goes a groat ! ''
Then there is the old joke of the thinness of the
slices of ham and the expert cutter, who undertook
to cover the gardens — eleven acres — with slices
from one ham !

The author of "Saunterings about London"
(^1853) thus sums up Vauxhall Gardens and the
entertainments provided here : — " Vauxhall was

born in the Regenc)', in one of the wicked nights
of dissolute Prince George. A wealthy speculator
was its father ; a prince was its godfather ; and all
the fashion and beauty of England stood round its
cradle. In those days Vauxhall was very exclusive
and expensive. At present it is open to all ranks ,
and classes, and half-a-guinea v.-iU irank a fourth-. .•■
rate milliner and sweetheart tlirougli the whole
evening. A Londoner wants a great deal for his-''
money, or he wants little — take it which way you
please. The programme of Vauxhall is an immense
carte for the eye and the ear : music, singing, horse-
manship, illuminations, dancing, rope-dancing,
acting, comic songs, hermits, gipsies, and fireworks,
on the most ' stunning ' scale. It is easier to read
the Kolner Zcitmig than the play-bill of Vauxhall.
With respect to the quantity of sights," adds the
writer, " it is most difficult to satisfy an English •
public. They have ' a capacious swallow ' for
sights, and require them in large masses, as they do
the meat which graces their tables. As to quality,
that is a minor consideration ; and to give the
English public its due, it is the most grateful of all
publics."

Fireworks were occasionally exhibited here as
far back as 17 98. Four years later the first
balloon ascent from the gardens was made by
Garnerin and two companions. In 1835, Mr.
Green ascended from these gardens, and remained
up in the air during the night. On the afternoon
of November 7 th, in the following year, Messrs.
Green, Monck Mason, and R. Hollond ascended
here in the monster balloon, called afterwards
the " Nassau." They effected their descent next
morning near Coblentz, having accomplished
nearly 500 miles in eighteen hours.

In June, 1837, these gardens had a narrow escape
from destruction by fire, which broke out one night
in the firework tower, a lofty structure eighty feet
in height, from which the pyrotechnic displays were
exhibited. At the top of this tower was a large
tank, containing 8,000 gallons of water ; this fell
in with a tremendous crash, but, curiously enough,
it produced not the slightest effect upon the flames.
The whole of the tower, including the painting-
room (the largest in England), was totally destroyed,
together with its contents ; likewise fourteen or
fifteen tall trees were burned to the ground, and
twice as many damaged. In the following month
Mr. Green again ascended here in his great balloon,
with Mr. Cocking in a parachute ; but this per-
formance, unfortunately, was attended with fatal
results, for the latter was killed in descending.

In 1838 Mr. Green, accompanied by Mr. Edward
Spencer and Mr. Rush, of Elseniiam Hall^ Essex

Vauihall.J

THE DECLINE OF VAUXHALL.

465

made another ascent in the " Nassau." They
descended at Debden, near Saffron Walden, forty-
seven miles from the gardens, having accomplished
the journey in one hour and a half, the highest
altitude attained being 19,335 ^^^^1 or nearly three
and three-quarter miles.

For some time ballooning served as the staple
feature in the programme, and an attempt was
made to render these gardens attractive by day as
well as by night. Readers of " Boz " will not forget
among them a chapter descriptive of the gardens
by day, and of the ascent of Mr. Green in a balloon
along with a "live lord;" or his remarks on the
cruelty of the disillusion practised on the public by
-Mr. Simpson admitting visitors within its precincts
when the veil of mystery which night and oil or
gas lamps had previously hung around them were
removed. "Vauxhall by daylight, indeed! A
porter-pot without the porter, the House of Com-
mons without Mr. Speaker; pooh ! nonsense ! The
thing was not to be thought of" But "thought
of" it was ; the experiment was tried, but was
soon given up.

Jonathan Tyers ruled over the destinies of Vaux-
hall for many years. He died in 1767 ; and we
are informed that " so great was the dehght he
took in this place, that, possessing his faculties to
the last, he caused himself to be carried into the
gardens a few hours before his death, to take a last
look at them." After Tyers' death the gardens
were conducted by different managers, the best-
known of whom was a Mr. Barnett ; but the pro-
perty still remained with Tyers' family until 1822,
when it was sold to Messrs. Bish, Gye, and Hughes
for ^28,000. Mr. Gye was afterwards M.P. for
Chippenham, and father of Mr. Frederick Gye, the
lessee of the Italian Opera.

In I S3 1 the proprietors endeavoured to secure
the musical aid of Paganini for fifteen nights ; but
he demanded ^10,000, and his terms were de-
clined. Mr. Wardell was some time the lessee of
the gardens ; then came the era of Simpson —
" Vauxhall Simpson," as Cruikshank styles him in
his " Comic Almanac " — with a " million extra
lamps," and balloons, and horse-riding, and tum-
bling, and Van Amburgh with his wild beasts, and
panoramas, and popular nights, at a shilling en-
trance ! but

" The glories of his leg and cane are past;
He made his bow and cut Iiis stick at last."

In 1840 the estate, "with its buildings, timber,
covered walks, &c.," was offered for sale by auction,
but bought in at ;£'20,ooo. "At this sale," as John
Timbs tells us, in his " Curiosities of London,"
" twenty-four pictures by Hogarth and Hayman

produced but small sums : they had mostly been
upon the premises since 1742 ; the canvas was
nailed to boards, and much obscured by dirt. By
Hogarth : Drunken Man, ^4 4s. ; a Woman
pulhng out an Old Man's grey hairs, ^2 3^- >
Jobson and Nell in the Devil to Pay, ^^4 4s. ;
the Happy Family, ^^3 iss. ; Children at Play,
/^4 IIS. 6d. By Hayman: Children Bird's-
nesting, ^5 10s.; Minstrels, ^3; the Enraged
Husband, ^£4 4s. ; the Bridal Day, ^6 6s. ; Blind-
man's Buff, _;^3 8s. ; Prince Henry and Falstaft',
^7 ; Scene from the Raktfs Progress, jQi) 15^. ;
Merry-making, ^i \2s. ; the Jealous Husband,
^4; Card-party, ^6; Children's Party, £^4 \'~,s.;
Battledore and Shuttlecock, ^i ios.\ the Doctor,
£,4 \4S. dd.; Cherry-bob, £2 \cs. ; the Storming
of Seringapatam, ^8 \os. ; Neptune and Britannia,
^i^'S i^s. Four busts of Simpson, tlie celebrated
master of the ceremonies, were sold for 10s. ; and
a bust of his royal shipmate, William IV. for igs."

Then came fitful seasons, sometimes lasting only
a few nights, and generally during St. Swithin's, till
the rain became a standing joke, in which even the
temporary lessees shared, sending out announce-
ments printed on huge umbrellas ; and last came
the fatal day when the " Royal Property " was
broken up by the auctioneer's hammer, the domain
became a wilderness, and Vauxhall was no more.

The gardens were already on their decline in the
reign of William IV., if we may judge from allusions
in the newspapers and magazines of that time.
That they had begun to lose their attractions, and
were no longer patronised by the " upper ten
thousand," may be gathered from the fact that in
Bohn's " Pictorial Handbook of London," pubUshed
in 1851, these historic grounds are dismissed without
any description, and with only the curt remark that
they were " long a favourite place of public amuse-
ment, in which music, singing, and ballets are per-
formed during the evenings of the summer months,"
and that " the admittance varies, being sometimes a
sliilling and sometimes half-a-crown." Alas ! how-
are the mighty fallen 1 how transitor)-, after all, is
the reign of fashion.

Mr. Timbs, in his " Curiosities of London,"
writes : — " Though Vauxhall Gardens retained their
place to the very last, the lamps had long fallen off
in their golden fires ; the punch got weaker, the
admission money less ; and the company fell off
in a like ratio of respectability, and grew dingy,
not to say ' raffish ' — a sorry falhng oft' from the
Vauxhall crowd of a century before, when it num-
bered princes and ambassadors ; when ' on its tide
and torrent of fashion floated all the beauty of the
time, and through its lighted avenues of trees glided

466

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

fVauxhflll.

cabinet ministers and their daughters, royal dukes
and their wives, and all the red-heeled macaronis.'
Even fifty years before the close of the gardens
the evening costume of the company was elegant ;
head-dresses of flowers and feathers were seen in
the promenade ; and the entire place sparkled as
did no other place of public amusement. But low
prices brought low company. The conventional
wax-lights got fewer ; the punch gave way to fiery
brandy and doctored stout. The semblance of
Vauxhall was still preserved in the representation
of the orchestra printed upon the plates and mugs,
and the old firework bell tinkled away as gaily
as ever. But matters grew more and more seedy ;
the place seemed literally worn out ; the very trees
grew scrubby and shabby, and looked as if they
were singed ; and it was high time to say, as well
to see in letters of lamps, ' Farewell.' "

Colin's description (to his wife) of Greenwood
Hall, or the pleasures of Spring Gardens, gives a
lively description of this modem Arcadia as it was
a century before its abolition : —

" O Mary ! soft in feature,

I've been at dear Vaux Hall ;
No Paradise is sweeter,
Not that they Eden call.

" At night such new vagaries,
Such gay and harmless sport ;
All looked like giant fairies
At this their monarch's court.

" Methought, when first I entered,
Such splendours round nie shone,
Into a world I'd ventured
Where shone another sun :

" While music never cloying.
As skylarks sweet, I hear ;
Their sounds I'm still enjoying,
They'll always soothe my ear.

** Here paintings sweetly glowing
Where'er our glances fall ;
Here colours, lite bestowing.
Bedeck this Greenwood Hall.

" The king there dubs a farmer ;

There John his doxy loves ;

But my delight 's the charmer

Who steals a pair of gloves.

" As still amazed I'm straying
O'er this ench.anted grove,
I spy a harper playing,
All in his proud alcove.

" I doff my hat, desiring

He'll tune up ' Buxom Joan ;'
But what was I admiring ?
Odzooks 1 a man of stone !

" But now, the tables spreading.
They all fall to with glee ;
Not e'en at squire's line wedding
Such dainties did I see.

" I longed (poor country rover I),
But none heed country elves.
These folk, with lace daubed over.
Love only their dear selves.

"Thus whilst 'mid joys abounding,
As grasshoppers they're gay,
At distance crowds surrounding
The Lady of the May.

" The man i' th' moon tweer'd shyly
Soft twinkling through the trees.
As though 'twould please him highly
To taste delights like these."

It should be explained that the allusion in the
sixth stanza is to three pictures in the Pavilion,
which represented "The King and the Miller of
Mansfield," " Sailors Tippling at Wajiping," and
" A Girl Steahng a Kiss from a Youth Asleep ; " .
that the '" harper " is the statu-e of Handel ; and

I that the " Lady of the May " is the " Princess of

1 Wales sitting under her Pavilion."

No public favourite ever had so many "posi-
tively last appearances " as Vauxhall. For years
Londoners were informed, at the conclusion of
each season, that Vauxhall would that week " close
for ever ; " and for years, at the commencenient
of the succeeding one, they were assured that it
would re-open " on a scale of magnificence hitherto
unattempted." But, as we have said, the end
eventually came ; this was about the year 1855.

In the autumn of 1859, a vast number of persons
were attracted to the gardens by the announcement
that " the well-known theatre, orchestra, dancing-
platform, firework-gallery, fountains, statues, vases,
&c.," would be sold by auction. There were, in
all, 274 lots, and many of them were knocked
down at the lowest conceivable price. A deal
painted table, with turned legs, one of the original
tables made for the gardens in 1754, was disposed
of for gs. A large historical painting in the coftee-
room, representing the King of Sardinia, with the
Order of the Garter, being introduced by Prince
Albert to the Queen, brought only 35.?. ; while an
equestrian picture of the Emperor and Empress of
the French at a hunting i)arty, in the costume of
Lotiis XIV'., was sold for tiic ridiculous sum of 22s.
Tlie great feature of the day's sale, it is stated, was
the circular orchestra, for which a gentleman of
the Jewish faith offered ^25 ; but several persons
seemed anxious alioiit tlie lot, .md the jirice ran up

to ^99-

Shortly afterwarils the Prince of Wales went tn

Vauxhall.]

THE MARQUIS OF WORCESTER.

467

Vauxhall, but it was to lay the foundation-stone
of a School of Art, on the spot where, in bygone
times, lovers whispered their "' soft nothings " in
the dark walks to the music of pattering fountains ;
a church has arisen on what was once almost the

centre of the gardens ; the manager's house is now
the parsonage, slightly enlarged, but otherwise un-
altered ; and all is respectable and artistic and
decorous, though there are no coloured lamps and
no fireworks.

CHAPrER XXXIV.

VAUXHALL {continued) AND BATTEKSEA.

" Traustiberina patent longc loc;i." — TibuUus.

Boat-r.tcing at Vauxhall— Fortific.-itions erected here in 1642— A Proposed Boulevard — The Marquib of Worcester, Author of the ''Century of
Inventions'" — The Works of the London C/as Company — Nine Elms— Messrs. Price's Candle Factory — Inns and Taverns — Origin of the
Name of Battersea — Descent of the Manor of Batlersea — Bolingbroke House — A Curious Air-mill — Reminiscences of Henry St. John, Lord
Bolingbroke — Sir William Batten — York House — The Parish Church of Battersea — Christ Church — St. Mark's Church — St. George's Church
— The National School— St. John's College — The Ruy.il Freemasons' Girls' School — The " Falcon" Tavern— The Victoria Bridge — -\lbcrt
Bridge — The Old Ferry — IJuilding of Battersea Bridge — Battersea Fields — The " Red House " — Ciesar's Furd — Battersea Park and Gardens
— Model Dwellings for Artisans and Labourers — Southwark and Vauxhall Waterworks — Market Gardens— Battersea Enamelled Ware —
How Battersea became the Cradle of Bottled Ale.

Vauxhall, it may here be stated, has other inter- London. His line, if carried out, would have

esting associations besides those connected with its come down from Hyde Park to Vau.xhall Bridge,
defunct Gardens ; for, like the Nore, it appears of , and thence have passed through the heart of

old to have been the end of the course for small Vau.xhall to Kennington, and so on through Cam--

sailing and racing matches on the Thames. Thus berwell to Greenwich.

Strutt writes, in his "Sports and Pastimes," pub- The Tradescants and Morlands, of whom we

lished in iSoo: — " A society, generally known by have already spoken, were not the only distin-

the appellation of the Cumberland Society, con- guished inhabitants of this locality in former times,

sisting of gentlemen partial to this pastime, gives for among its residents was the celebrated man of

yearly a silver cup to be sailed for in the vicinity science, the Marquis of AVorcestcr, so well known

of London. The boats usually start from the
bridge at Blackfriars, go up to Putney, and return
to Vauxhall, where a vessel is moored at a distance
from the stairs, and the sailing-boat that first
passes this mark on her return obtains the victory."
It would seem natural that while the chief access
to the Gardens was by the " silent highway " of the
Thames and by the " stairs," the owners of Vaux-
hall and of Astley's should have shown some
regard for the river and aquatic amusements ; ac-

as the author of the " Century of Inventions," if not
as the inventor of the steam-engine. He lived at
Vauxhall for some years after the Restoration, from
1663 down to his death in 1667, probably holding
the post of superintendent of some works under
the Government connected with the army and
navy. ' Here he set up his "water-commanding
engine," which was naturally a great curiosity in
those days, when science was at a low ebb. On
this he spent nearly ^60,000, and had to pay the

cordingly we learn from the same authority that the 1 penalty of obloquy and calumny, which always

proprietors of those places used to give annually | attach to great minds in advance of their age.

wherry to be rowed for by the "jolly young 1 His thanksgiving to Almighty God for "vouch-

watermen," or Thames apprentices, much like
Doggett's coat and badge are now the objects of
an annual aquatic contest.

We have, at different points of our perambula-
tions round London, spoken of the fortifications
which were erected during the Civil ^\'ars ; we may
mention here that " a quadrant tort, with four half-
bulwarks at Vauxhall," occurs among the defences

safing him an insight into so great a secret of
nature beneficial to all mankind as this my water-
commanding engine," is one of the most touching
evidences at once of his humility and his conlidence
in the wonder-working power of time. To show
how little the martinis was known or appreciated
in his day, it may be added that, though he died
in 1667, it is not certain whether he died here or

of London which were ordered to be set up by at the residence of his family, Beaufort House, in
the Parliament in 1612. the Strand.t

The late Mr. Loudon, as already stated by us,* , Near Vau.xhall Bridge are the large works of
proposed to make a series of boulevards round the London Gas Company, established in 1833.

See Vol. v., p 257.

\ See Vol. III., p. ifi.

468

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Vauxhall.

Though situated on the south of the Thames, the
company is not wrongly named, for its mains are
carried across Vauxhall Bridge, and extend over
a considerable distance of Pinilico, which they
supply.

Close by the gas-works is the Nine Elms pier, so
called from some lofty trees which formerly grew
there, but were cut down before the South-Western
Railway marked the spot for its own. As stated

its career by stepping in between them at Battersea
Fields."

We have already spoken of the glass-works,
which formed one of the centres of industry for
which Vauxhall was formerly celebrated ; another
scene of industry in our own time was Messrs.
Price's candle factory, which was for many years
one of the most interesting sights in London.
There were formerly two establishments in con-

^•^.•'/..HiH^^^l

OLD )!ATTERSEA MILL, Ai.ui 1 ihoo. (fiom a Conlcmporary Dra7i'iiig.)

by us in a previous chapter, the South-Western
Railway originally had its London terminus here,
the line not being allowed to be brought direct into
London;-^ but upon the extension of the line to
the Waterloo Road, in the year 1848, the old
station was converted into a goods depot. The
railway works here cover a vast extent of ground
on either side of the main line, and give employ-
ment to a large number of hands. Mr. T. Miller,
in his "Picturesque Sketches of London" (1852),
writes : — " Wandsworth had set out in good earnest
to reach Lambeth, and would soon liave been near
the Nine I'^lms Station had not Government stopped

• This was the ca-sc also witli the North-Wcsterii Railway, the
London terminus of which was rjri;;inally at Chalk Farm : sec Vol. V,.
P- 3SO.

nection with the firm, known ns Belmont, at Vaux-
hall, and Sherwood, in York Road, Battersea ; the
latter, however, which was by far the largest, alone
remains, and the large corrugated iron roofs of the
buildings are doubtless well known to the reader
who is in the habit of passing frequently up the
river. The works cover upv/ards of thirteen acres
of ground, six of which are under cover, and they
give employment to about one thousand hands.
It may be added that this factory covers the site of
old York House, of which we shall liave more to
say presently. The neighbourhood would api)ear
to have been, at the early ]iart of the present
century, pretty well supplied with inns and taverns ;
at all events, a manuscri]H list, dated about 1810,
enumerates "The Bull," " 'Ihe Elephant and

fiattetsea.]

A CURIOUS MILL.

469

Castle," "The Bridge House," "The Vauxhall
Tap," "The White Lion," "The King's Arms,"
" The Lion and Lamb," " The White Bear," " The
Fox," " The Three Merry Boys," " The Red Cow,"
"The Bull's Head," "The Coach and Horses,"
"The Henry VIII.," "The Crown," " The Ship,"
■' The Red Lion," and the Nag's Head."

Battersea, or "Patrick's-eye," which bounds
Lambeth on the west, is said to have taken

in his " Circuit of London," writes ; — " The family
seat was a venerable structure, which contained
forty rooms on a floor ; the greatest part of the
house was pulled down in 1778. On the site of
the demolished part are erected a horizontal air-
mill and malt distillery. The part left standing
forms a dwelling-house ; one of the parlours, front-
ing the Thames, is lined with cedar, beautifully
inlaid, and was the favourite study of Pope, the

YORK HOUSE (i79o). (From a Contemporary Print.)

its name from St. Patrick or St. Peter, because in
ancient days it belonged to the Abbey of St. Peter
at Westminster. In Domesday Book, a.d. 1078,
it is recorded that " S. Peter of Westminster holds
Patricesy." The manor, with the advowson, was
granted by King Stephen to the abbot and convent
of Westminster ; but at the Dissolution they again
reverted into the hands of the Crown. Charles I.,
however, granted them to Sir Oliver St. John,
ancestor of Lord Bolingbroke, from whose family
they passed by sale to that of Lord Spencer. By
the ancient custom of this manor, lands were to
descend to younger sons ; but if there are no sons,
they were divided equally among the daughters.

Henry St. John, Viscount Bolingbroke and Lord
St. John of Battersea, died here in 1751. Hughson,
280

scene of many a literary conversation between him
and his friend Bolingbroke. The mill, now [180S]
used for grinding malt for the distillery, was built
for the grinding of linseed. The design was taken
from that of another, on a smaller scale, constructed
at Margate. Its height, from the foundation, is
one hundred and forty feet, the diameter of the
conical part fifty-four feet at the base and forty-
five at the top. The outer part consists of ninety-
six shutters, eighty feet high and nine inches
broad, which, by the pulling of a rope, open and
shut in the manner of Venetian blinds. In the
inside, the main shaft of the mill is the centre of
a large circle formed by the sails, which consist of
ninety-six double planks, placed perpendicularly,
and of the same height as the planks that form the

470

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[BatLersca.

shutters. The wind rushing through the openings
of these shutters acts with great power upon the
sails, and, when it blows fresh, turns the mill with
prodigiouc- rapidity ; but this may be moderated in
an instant, by lessening the apertures between the
shutters, which is effected, like the entire stopping
of the mill, as before observed, by the pulling of a
rope. In this mill are six pairs of stones, to which
two pairs more may be added. On the site of the
garden and tenace have been erected extensive
bullock houses, capable of holding 650 bullocks,
fed with the grains from the distillery mixed with
meal." The above-mentioned mill (see page 468)
has long been removed, or, at any rate, considerably
altered, and a flour-mill now occupies the site. John
Timbs, in his "Curiosities of London," tells us
that the mill resembled a gigantic packing-case,
which gave rise to an odd story, that " when the
Emperor of Russia was in England he took a
fancy to Battersea Church, and determined to carry
it off to Russia, and had this large packing-case
made for it ; but as the inhabitants refused to let
the church be carried away, the case remained on
the spot where it was deposited."

When Sir Richard Phillips took, in 1816, his
" Morning Walk from London to Kew," he found
still standing a small portion of the family mansion
in which Lord Bolingbroke had been born, and,
like Hughson before him, he tells us that it had
been converted into a mill and distiller)', though a
small oak parlour had been carefully preserved.
In this room Pope is said to have written his
"Essay on Man ;" and in Bolingbroke's time the
house was the constant resort of Swift, Arbuthnot,
Thomson, and David Mallet, and all the cotem-
porary literati of English society. The oak room
was always called " Pope's Parlour," and doubtless
was the very identical room which was assigned to
the poet whenever he came from London, or from
Twickenham, as a guest to Battersea.

Happening to inquire for some ancient in-
habitant of the place. Sir Ricliard was introduced
to a chatty and intelligent old woman, a Mrs.
Gillard, who told him that she well remembered
Lord Bolingbroke's face ; that he used to ride out
every day in his chariot, and had a black patch on
his cheek, witia a large wart over one of his eye-
brows. She was then but a child, but she was
taught always to regard him as a great man. As,
however, he spent but little in tlie place, and gave
little away, he was not mucli regarded by the
people of Battersea. Sir Richard mentioned to
the old dame the names of many of Boling-
broke's friends and associates ; but she could
remember nothing of any of them except Mallet,

whom she used often to see walking about the
village, wrapped up in his own thoughts, whilst he
was a visitor at " the great house." The cedar-
panelled room in Bolingbroke House is still very
scrupulously preserved ; its windows still overlook
the Thames, from which the house is separated by
a lawn. In three of the chambers up-stairs the
ceilings are ornamented with stucco-work, and
have in their centres oval-shaped oil-paintings on
allegorical subjects.

Henry St. John was born at Battersea in 1678,
and was educated at Eton, where he became ac-
quainted with Sir Robert Walpole, and where a
rivalship was commenced which lasted through
life. At an early age he was distinguished for his
talents, fascinating manners, and remarkable per-
sonal beauty ; and he left college only to continue
a course of the wildest profligacy. On his eleva-
tion to the peerage, in 17 12, his father's con-
gratulation on his new honours was something
of the oddest : — " Ah, Harry ! " said he, " I ever
said you would be hanged ; but now I find you
will be beheaded!'' Three years later, having been
impeached for high treason, Bolingbroke Hed to
Calais ; and shortly afterwards, by invitation of
Charles Stuart, he visited him at Lorraine, and
accepted the post of his Secretary of State, which
caused his impeachment and attainder. In 1723
he was permitted to return home, and his estates
were restored to him ; but the House of Lords
was still closed against him. In 1736 he again
visited France, and resided there until the death
of his father, when he retired to the family seat
here for the rest of his life. He died of a cancer
in the face in 1751.

Lord Bolingbroke wrote several works which
have handed his name down to posterity. During
his life there appeared a "Letter to Swift," the
"Representation," "His Case," "Dissertations upon
Parties," "Remarks on the History of England,"
" Letters on the Spirit of Patriotism," " On the
Idea of a Patriot King," and "On the State
of Parties at the Accession of George I." His
correspondence, state papers, essays, &c., were
subsequently published in a collected form by
David Mallet, his literary legatee.

Lord Marchmont was living with Lord Boling-
broke, at Battersea, when he discovered that Mr.
Allen, of Bath, had printed 500 copies of the "Essay
on a Patriot King " from the copy which Boling-
broke had presented to Pope — six copies only being
printed. Thereupon, we are told, Lord Marchmont
sent a man for the whole cargo, and they were
brought out in a waggon, and the books burned on
the lawn in the presence of Lord Bolingbroke.

Battersea.]

THE GREAT LORD BOLINGBROKE.

471

The history of Lord BoHngbroke may be read
in his epitaph in the parish church close by, which
is as follows : — " Here lies Henry St. John, in the
reign of Queen Anne Secretary of War, Secretary
of State, and Viscount Bolingbrokc ; in the days
of King George L and King George II. sometliing
more and better. His attachment to Queen Anne
exposed him to a long and severe persecution ; he
bore it with firmness of mind. He passed the
latter part of his life at home, the enemy of no
national party, the friend of no faction ; distin-
guished under the cloud of proscription, which
had not been entirely taken off, by zeal to main-
tain the liberty and to restore the ancient pros-
perity of Great Britain."

" In this manner," says Oliver Goldsmith, in his
life of this distinguished man, " lived and died
Lord Bolingbroke ; ever active, never depressed ;
ever pursuing Fortune, and as constantly dis-
appointed by her. In whatever light we view
his character, we shall find him an object rather
more proper for our wonder than our imitation ;
more to be feared than esteemed, and gaining our
admiration without our love. His ambition ever
aimed at the summit of power, and nothing seemed
capable of satisfying his immoderate desires but the
liberty of governing all things without a rival."

Of Lord Bolingbroke's genius as a philosopher,
the same author observes that " his aims were
equally great and extensive. Unwilling to submit
to any authority, he entered the fields of science
with a thorough contempt of all that had been
estabhshed before him, and seemed willing to
think everything wrong that he might show his
faculty in the reformation. It might have been
better for his quiet as a man if he had been
content to act a subordinate character in the
State ; and it had certainly been better for his
memory as a writer if he had aimed at doing
less than he attempted. As a novelist, therefore,
Lord Bolingbroke, by having endeavoured at too
much, seems to have done nothing; but as a
political writer, few can equal and none can exceed
him."

Tindal, the historian, confesses that St. John
was occasionally, perhaps, the best political writer
that ever appeared in England ; whilst Lord
Chesterfield tells us that, until he read Boling-
broke's " Letters on Patriotism," and his " Idea of
a Patriot King," he " did not know all the extent
and powers of the English language. Whatever
subject," continues his lordship, " Lord Boling-
broke speaks or writes upon, he adorns with
the most splendid eloquence ; not a studied or
laboured eloquence, but such a flowing happiness

of diction, which (from care, perhaps, at first) is
become so familiar to him that even his most
familiar conversations, if taken down in writing,
would bear the press, without the least correction
either as to method or style."

Among the residents of this village was Sir
William Batten, the friend of Pepys, who records
in his "Diary," January 30th, 1660-1, how Lady
Batten and his own wife went hence to see the
bodies of Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw hanged
and buried at Tyburn.

York House, which stood near the water-side, on
the spot now occupied by Price's Candle Factory,
and is kept in remembrance by York Road, is
supposed to have been built about the year 1475
by Lawrence Booth, Bishop of Durham, and by
him annexed to the see of York, of which he
was afterwards archbishop, as a residence for him-
self and his successors when they had occasion to
be near the Court.

Lysons speaks of the house as standing in his
time (the end of the last century), and states that
it was formerly an occasional residence of the
archbishops ; but that for more than a century it
had been occupied only by tenants. " Tradition,
with its usual fondness for appropriation," he adds,
" speaks of Wolsey's residence there ; and the
room is yet shown in which he entertained Anne
Boleyn ; but besides the improbability that Wolsey
— who, when he was Archbishop of York, lived in as
great and sometimes in greater state than the king
himself, and was owner of two most magnificent
palaces — should reside in a house which would not
have contained half his retinue, it is well known
that these entertainments were given at York
House, Whitehall."

When Archbishop Holgate was committed to the
Tower by Queen Mary, in 1553, the officers who
were employed to apprehend him rifled his house
at Battersea, and took away from thence "^300
of gold coin, 1,600 ounces of plate, a mitre of fine
gold, with two pendants set round about the
sides and midst with very fine-pointed diamonds,
sapphires, and balists ; and all the plain, with other
good stones and pearls ; and the pendants in like
manner, weighing 125 ounces ; some very valuable
rings ; a serpent's tongue set in a standard of .silver
gilt, and graven ; the archbishop's seal in silver ;
and his signet, an antique in gold." Holgate was
afterwards deprived of the archbishopric of York,
to which he was never restored.

Of the structural details of the ancient parish
church of Battersea, dedicated to St. Mary, little
or nothing is now known, further than that it is
said to have been a " twin sister " church to that

472

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Pattersea.

of Chelsea on the opposite side of the river, which
it much resembled. The edifice was rebuilt with
brick in the last century, and in a style quite
worthy of that most tasteless era. It is an utterly
unecclesiastical and unsighdy structure, without
aisles or chancel, and almost defies description.
A church had stood on the same site for centuries ;
but the present edifice dates only from 1777, when
it was erected at a cost of ^^5,000. The tower
is surmounted by a low^, heavy-looking octagonal
spire, and contains a clock and eight bells. At
the east end is a recess for the communion-table,
above which is a central window in three divisions.
The painted glass in this window, which was re-
placed from the old church, contains portraits of
Henry VII., his grandmother, Margaret Beauchamp,
and Queen Elizabeth, together with many enrich-
ments and several coats-of-arms. Most of the
old monuments were replaced against the walls
of the side galleries. Against the south wall is
a monument to an heroic person, Sir Edward
Wynter, who seems to have outstripped the
boldest knights of chivalry by his e.vploits, if we
may take the epitaph literally : —

"Alone, unarm'd, a tyger he oppressed,
And crushed to death the monster of a beast ;
Twice twenty Moors he also overthrew,
Singly on foot ; some wounded ; some he slew ;
Dispersed the rest. What more could Sampson do ? "

Among the memorials of the St. Johns is that
of Lord Bolingbroke, already mentioned, and of
his second wife, Mary Clara des Champs de
Marcilly, Marchioness de Villette. This monu-
ment, which is of grey and white marble, was
executed by RoubiUac. The upper part displays
an urn with drapery, surmounted by the viscount's
arms, and the lower portion records the characters
of the deceased, flanked by their medallions in
profile, in bas-relief. Another monument com-
memorates the descent and preferments of Oliver
St. John, Viscount Grandison, who was the first of
his family that settled at Battersea. He died in
1630. Sir George Wombwell, of Sherwood Lodge,
in this parish, who died in 1846 ; and Sir John
Fleet, Lord ALayor of London in 1693, who died
in 17 1 2, are also commemorated by marble tablets.
In the churchyard are buried Arthur Collins, editor
of the " Peerage " which bears his name, and
AVilliam Curtis, the botanist, autlior of the " Flora
Londinensis."

The parish register dates from the year 1559.
In 1877-8 the interior of the church underwent
a partial restoration, being re-paved and rc-seatcd
with open benches, in place of the old-fashioned
pews.

Of late years several other churches and chapels
have been erected in the parish. Christ Church,
at South Battersea, is an elegant Decorated struc-
ture ; it was built by subscription, and opened
in 1849, St. JMark's, Battersea Rise, is of the
Geometric Middle-pointed style of architecture ; it
was built from the designs of Mr. W. White, and
was consecrated in 1874. Around the apse is an
ambulatory, with steps leading to it from a crypt.

St. George's Church, in Lower Wandsworth Road,
dates its erection from 1827 ; it is a large edifice
of the Pointed style of architecture in vogue in the
thirteenth century, and was built from the designs of
Mr. Blore. It was enlarged and repaired in 1874.

There are National and British and Foreign
Schools for boys, girls, and infants. The National
School, in High Street, was founded and endowed
for twenty boys in 1700, by Sir Walter St. John,
'Sa.Tt; it was rebuilt and enlarged in 1859, and
now affords instruction to about 300 boys. Christ
Church Schools are neat buildings in the Grove
Road, and were erected at a cost of ;^4,8oo.

The Normal School of the National Society,
known as St. John's College — for the training of
young men who are intended to becoine school-
masters in schools connected with the Church of
England — owes its origin to Dr. J. P. Kay and
Mr. E. C. Tufnell, assistant Poor-law Commis-
sioners. These gentlemen, with a view of making
an effort for the production of a better description
of schoolmasters than had hitherto generally been
met with, visited Holland, Prussia, Switzerland,
Paris, and other places, for the purpose of examin-
ing the operations of the establishments projected
by Pestalozzi, De Fellenberg, and other enlightened
promoters of the education of the poor ; and the
result of their observations was a desire and hope
to establish in this country a Normal School, " for
imparting to young men that due amount of know-
ledge, and training them in those habits of sim-
plicity and earnestness, which might render them
useful instructors to the poor." With this view,
they were led to select " a spacious manor-house
close to the Thames at Battersea, chiefly on ac-
count of the ver\- frank and cordial welcome witli
which the suggestion of their plan was received by
the vicar, the Hon. and Rev. R. Eden." That
gentleman ofiered the use of his village schools in
aid of the training scliools, as the sphere in which
the " normal '' students might obtain practice and
direction in tlic art of teacliing. Boys were at first
obtained from the School of Industry at Norvtood,
and were intended to remain three years in train-
ing. With these were subsequently associated
some young men whose period of residence was

Batter^ea.]

JOVIAL UNDERTAKERS.

473

necessarily limited to one year. The institution
was first put in operation at the commencement of
1S40; and it continued under the direction of Dr.
Kay and Mr. Tufnell, supported by their private
means, and conducted in its various departments
of instruction and industrial labour by tutors and
superintendents appointed by them, until the close
of the year 1843, when the establishment was put
on a foundation of permanency by the directors
transferring it into the hands of the National
Society. Several Continental modes of instruction
had been adopted by Dr. Kay and Mr. Tufnell,
such as Mulhauser's method of writing, Wilhelm's
method of singing, Dupuis' method of drawing,
&c. ; and the results of their benevolent experi-
ment were so satisfactory, that a grant of ^^2,200
for the extension and improvement of the premises
was made to them by the Committee of Council
on Education, which grant was transferred to the
National Society, and forthwith expended in the
requisite alterations. New dormitories, a dining-
hall, lavatories, &c., were then built; and in ihe
early part of 1S46 a large new class-room was
erected, and filled with every kind of apparatus for
the use of the students. The institution is sup-
ported by the National Society's special fund for
providing schoolmasters for the manufacturing and
mining districts. Only young men are now re-
ceived as students ; and the usual term of training
is generally one year and a half The general
number of scholars is from eighty to one hundred.

Another invaluable institution in Battersea is the
Royal Freemasons' Girls' School. This institu-
tion was founded in 1788, and was originally
located in St. George's Fields ; * but was a few
years ago removed to its present site on St. John's
Hill, Battersea Rise. It was established for the
purpose of educating and maintaining the daughters
of poor or deceased Freemasons. The school,
which stands near Clapham Junction Station, and
close by the side of the railway, is a red-brick
building, of Gothic architecture, and was erected in
185^ from the designs of Mr. Philip Hardvvicke;
it is chiefly noticeable for its great central clock-
tower, and watch-towers at the corners.

At Battersea Rise, which forms the north-western
extremity of Clapham Common, many pleasant
villas and superior houses have been built ; this
being " a most desirable situation and respectable
neighbourhood." Here the first Lord Auckland
had a suburban villa, where he used to entertain
his political friends, Pitt, Wilberforce, and others.

" In the last quarter of the eighteenth century,"

* Sec ante, p. 350.

writes Robert Chambers, in his " Book of Days,"
" there flourished at the corner of the lane leading
from the Wandsworth Road to Battersea Bridge a
tavern yclept ' The Falcon,' kept by one Robert
Death — a man whose figure is said to have ill com-
ported with his name, seeing that it displayed the
highest appearance of jollity and good condition.
A merry-hearted artist, named John Nixon, passing
this house one day, found an undertaker's company
regaling themselves at ' Death's door.' Having
just discharged their duty to a rich nabob in a
neighbouring churchyard, they had . . . found
an opportunity for refreshing exhausted nature ;
and well did they ply the joyful work before
them. The artist, tickled at a festivity among such
characters in such a place, sketched them on the
spot. This sketch was soon after published, ac-
companied by a cantata from another hand of no
great merit, in wliich the foreman of the company,
Mr. Sable, is represented as singing as follows, to
the tune of ' I've kissed, and I've prattled with
fifty fair maids : ' —

" ' Dukes, lords, have I buried, and squires of fame,
And people of every degree ;
But of all the fine jobs that ere came in my way,
A funeral like this for me.

This, this is the job
That fills the fob ;
Oh ! the burying a Nabob for me !
Unfeather the hearse, put the pall in the bag,
Give the horses some oats and some hay ;
Drink our next merry meeting and quackery's increase,
With three times three and hurra ! ' "

Mr. Death has long since submitted to his
mighty namesake ; the " Falcon " is gone, and the
very place where the merry undertakers regaled
themselves can scarcely be distinguished among
the spreading streets which now occupy this part
of the environs of the metropolis.

Three bridges communicate across the river with
Chelsea : the first is a handsome structure, built on
the suspension principle, and called the Chelsea
Bridge. It connects the Victoria Road, on the
east side of Battersea Park, with Chelsea Bridge
Road and Grosvenor Road, and has been already
described by us.f The next is also a suspension
bridge, known as the Albert, built about 1873,
and uniting the roadway on the west side of
the park with Chelsea Embankment and Cheyne
Walk. The third bridge, which has supplanted
the venerable wooden structure known as Batter-
sea Bridge, connects the older portion of the
parish with the oldest part of Chelsea. For more
than a century prior to 1S74 — when certain altera-

. t See Vol, v., p. 41.

474

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

iBattersea.

tions were effected upon it by its new proprietors,
the Albert Bridge Company — the ancient timber
obstruction, by custom and courtesy called a
bridge, had been an object almost of dread to all
who were in the habit of navigating the above-
bridge portion of the "silent highway." The

letters patent, and for the sum of ^"40, the king
gave " his dear relation Thomas, Earl of Lincoln,
and John Eldred and Robert Henley, Esquires, all
that ferry across the River Thames called Chelche-
hith Ferry, or Chelsey Ferry." Some adjacent
lands were included in the grants, and the grantees

OLD BATTKKSEA CHURCH ( 1 79O).

historj' of the bridge stretches away considerably
into the past, and taken in connection with the
ferry which it was built to supersede, and which
belonged to the original proprietors of the bridge,
it is directly traceable to the commencement of
the seventeenth century. As a rule, river bridges
have generally been preceded by ferries, and to
this rule Battersea Bridge forms no exception. A
ferry which preceded it was in full operation when
James L came to the throne, and jjresumably
belonged to the Crown, inasmuch as by royal

had the power to convey their rights to " our very
illustrious s\ibject, William Blake." The Earl of
Lincoln was the owner of Sir Thomas More's
house in CHielsca,* having jiurchascd it from Sir
Robert Cecil. In 1618 tiie carl sold the ferry to
William Blake, who also had a local interest in
Chelsea, inasmuch as he owned Chelsea Park,
which had once belonged to Sir Thomas More, and
was at one time known as " the Sand Hills." This

• See Vol, v., p. 53,

Battersea.]

BATTERSEA BRIDGE.

475

park was sold by Blake to the Earl of Middlesex
in 1620.

When the ferry changed hands is not quite
certain, but in 1695 it belonged to one Bartholomew
Nutt. The ferry appears to have been rated in
the parish books in 1710 at ^8 per annum. It
afterwards came into the possession of Sir
Walter St. John, who, as we have seen,
owned the manor of Battersea and other
estates in Surrey. He died in 1708, and
the ferry, with the rest of the property,
went to his son Henry, who died in 1742,
having left it to his son, Henry, the famous
Viscount Bolingbroke, who died childless
in 1 75 1, bequeathing his estates to
his nephew, Frederick. In the year
1762 the nephew obtained an Act of
Parliament, under which he sold the

being only a fragile structure, as special powers are
granted to the earl to sue watermen injuring it by
boat or vessel. Provision is also made on behalf
of the public by a clause which enacts that in the
event of a tempest or unforeseen accident rendering
the bridge "dangerous or impracticable," the earl

^,

THE TROPICAL GARDENS, BATTERSEA. PARK.

manorial property to the trustees of John, Earl
Spencer. In 1766 Earl Spencer obtained an Act
of Parliament which empowered him to build a
bridge at his own expense at the ferry, and to
secure land for the approaches. The tolls
named in the Act were one halfpenny for foot-
passengers, and fourpence for a cart drawn
by one horse, which was afterwards reduced to
twopence. The framers of the Act appear to
have contemplated the possibility of the bridge

shall provide a convenient ferry,
chargmg the same tolls as on
the bridge. The bridge, how-
ever, was not constructed until
several years after the Act of
Parliament had been obtained,
and between the years 1765
and 1 77 1 it is on record that the ferry produced
an average rental of ^^42 per annum. In the
latter year Lord Spencer associated with him-
self seventeen gentlemen, each of whom was to
pay ^100 as a consideration for the fifteenth share
in the ferry, and all the advantages conferred on
the earl by the Act of 1766. They were also
made responsible for a further payment of ^900
each towards the construction of a bridge. A
contract was entered into with Messrs. Phillips and

470

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Battersu.

Holland to build the bridge for ;i^io,5oo. The
works were at once commenced, and by the end of
1 77 1 it was opened for foot passengers, and in the
following year it was available for carriage traffic.
Money had to be laid out in the formation of
approach roads, so that at the end of 1773 the
total amount expended was ;^i5,662.

For many years the proprietors realised only a
small return upon their capital, repairs and improve-
ments absorbing nearly all the receipts. In the
severe winter of 1795 considerable damage was
done to the bridge by reason of the accumulated
ice becoming attached to the piles, and drawing
them on the rise of the tide ; and in the last three
years of the eighteenth century no dividends were
distributed. In 1799 one side of the bridge was
lighted with oil lamps, and it was the only wooden
bridge across the Thames which at that time
possessed such accommodation. In 1821 the
dangerous wooden railing was replaced by a hand-
rail of iron; and in 1824 the bridge was lighted
with gas, the pipes being brought over from Chelsea,
although Battersea remained unlighted by gas for
several years afterwards.

Further structural improvements were made from
time to time, one of which consisted of laying
the bridge with a flooring of cast-iron plates, on
which the metal of the roadway rested. At various
times, too, the proprietors expended considerable
sums of money in making a road on Wandsworth
Common, and, in conjunction with Battersea
parish, in improving ways of approach to the
bridge. The proprietors, moreover, often expressed
their willingness to contribute towards some altera-
tion of the water-way of the bridge for the benefit
of the public. In this, however, it was but reason-
able that they should expect to be joined by the
Conservators of the Thames, or others interested
in the movement. This expectation not being
realised, they declined to bear the whole cost.
Until 1873 the bridge remained in the hands of
the descendants or friends of the original pro-
prietors. In that year, however, it came into
possession of the Albert Bridge Company ; and it
was by this company, as stated above, that the
recent improvements were carried out. The new
bridge, like the Chelsea and Albert Bridges, is in
the hands of the London County Council.

The extreme length of the old bridge was 726 feet,
and its width twenty-four feet, including the two
pathways. It originally consisted of nineteen ojicn-
ings, varying from thirty-one feet in the centre to
sixteen feet at the ends, the piers being formed of
groups of timber piles. There was a clear headway
of fifteen feet under the centre span at Trinity high

water. The bridge did not cross the river in a
direct line, but was built on a slight curve in plan
— the convexity being on the upper or western
side. The alterations above mentioned comprised
the widening of the water-way at two points in the
bridge, for which purpose four of the spans were
converted into two. The centre opening was then
seventy-five feet wide, with the same headway as
before. The other widening of the water-way was
at a point near the northern or Chelsea end. By
these alterations greater facilities for river traffic
were afforded, while the bridge was considerably
strengthened by means of iron girders and extra
piles. The new bridge, of iron girders on granite
piers, cost ;^i 43,000, and was opened in 1890.

A quarter of a century ago the locality then
known as Battersea Fields was One of the darkest
and dreariest spots in the suburbs of London. A
flat and unbroken wilderness of some 300 acres, it
was the resort of costermongers and " roughs," and
those prowling vagabonds who call themselves
"gipsies." The weekday scenes here were bad
enough ; but on Sundays they were positively
disgraceful, and to a great extent the police were
powerless, for the place was a sort of " no man's
land," on which ruffianism claimed to riot un-
controlled by any other authority than its own will.
Pugilistic encounters, dog-fights, and the rabble
coarseness of a country fair in its worst aspect
were " as common as blackberries in the autumn."
But at length the " strong arm of the law " inter-
fered, and the weekly "fair" — if such it might be
called — was abolished bv the magistrates in May,
1852.

Duels have sometimes been fought in Battersea
Fields, the lonely character of the neighbourhood
causing it to be selected for this special purpose.
One of the most noted of these "affairs of honour"
took place in 1829. In that year the Duke of
Wellington got into "hot water" for the part he
had taken in the passing of the Catholic Relief
Bill. Abuse fell upon him fast and furious ; and
the young Earl of Winchilsea — one of the leaders
of the anti-Catholic party — went so far as to
publish a violent attack on his personal character.
The duke having vainly endeavoured to induce the
earl to retract his charges, sent him a challenge,
and tlic combatants met in Battersea Fields on
the 2ist of March, but fortunately separated without
injury to either. Lord Winchilsea, after escaping
the duke's shot, fired in the air, and then tendered
the apology which ought to have been made at the
outset.

On tlie river-side the monotony of blackguardism
I was somewhat relieved by a glaring tavern, known

Eattersea.]

THE "RED HOUSE.'

477

as the " Red House " — but more frequently called
by cockneys the " Red-'us," as every reader of
'■Sketches by Boz"will remember — in the grounds
of which pigeon-shooting was carried on by the
cream of society till superseded by the more
fashionable Hurlingham. In Colburn's " Kalendar
of Amusements" (1S40), we read that "pigeon-
shooting is carried on to a great extent irt the
neighbourhood of London ; but the 'Red House'
at Battersea appears to take the lead in the quantity
and quality of this sport, inasmuch as the crack
shots about London assemble there to determine
matches of importance, and it not unfrequently
occurs that not a single bird escapes the shooter."

The " Red House " has been the winning-post
of many a boat-race. In the " Good Fellows'
Calendar" of 1826, we read that, on the i8th of
August in the previous year, " Mr. Kean, the per-
former," gave a prize wherry, which was "rowed
for by seven pairs of oars. The first heat was
from Westminster Bridge round a boat moored
near Lawn Cottage, and down to the ' Red
House ' at Battersea." The other heats, too, all
ended here ; and the Calendar adds that, though
Westminster Bridge was crowded with spectatois,
the " Red House " was " the place where all the
prime of life lads assembled," and describes the
fun of the afternoon and evening in amusing
terms.

It is said that about fifty yards west of this spot
Caesar crossed the Thames, following the retreating
Britons ; but the fact is questioned. Nevertheless,
Sir Richard Phillips, in his " Morning's Walk from
London to Kew," tells us that he had more than
once surveyed the ford, from the " Red House "
to the opposite bank, near the site of Ranelagh.
" At ordinary low water," he adds, " a shoal of
gravel not three feet deep, and broad enough for
ten men to walk abreast, extends across the river,
except on the Surrey side, where it has been
deepened by raising ballast. Indeed, the cause-
way from the south bank may yet be traced at low
water, so that this was doubtless a ford to the
peaceful Britons, across which the British army
retreated before the Romans, and across which
they were doubtless followed by Cjesar and the
Roman legions. The event was pregnant with
such consequences to the fortunes of these islands
that the spot deserves the record of a monument,
which ought to be preserved from age to age, as
long as the veneration due to antiquity is cherished
among us."

As lately as 1851 Battersea Fields formed, as
we have said, a dreary waste of open country. A
" Metropolitan Guide " of that year speaks of them

as " destined to be shortly converted into a park,
with an ornamental lake, walks, and parterres, for
the recreation and enjoyment of the people." The
fact is, the disgraceful scenes to be witnessed here
had become such a glaring scandal that urgent
measures had long been in contemplation for its
suppression. Happily, just then the demand for
open spaces in the outskirts of the metropolis had
taken firm hold of public attention, and about this
time these fields, instead of being handed over to
speculative builders, were devoted to the purposes
of a public park. The " Red House," with its
shooting-grounds and adjacent premises, was pur-
chased by the Government for ;£'io,ooo ; and,
under the late Metropolitan Board of Works, in
the course of a few years, the wilderness was con-
verted into a pleasant garden, and now Battersea
Park ranks among the very first of those health
and pleasure resorts which Londoners prize so
highly and justly It is now one of the prettiest
of London parks, and every year adds charms to its
many attractions, the choicest of which, perhaps,
is the Acclimatisation Garden, which may be said
to flourish here not far from the heart of the
metropolis. In Battersea Park palm-trees actually
grow in the open air — not under glass cases, as
at Kew : indeed, this park is no mean or con-
temptible rival to Kew Gardens.

The park, which was opened to the public in
1858, contains about 185 acres ornamentally laid
out with trees, shrubs, flower-plots, and a sheet of
water. For the land ;^246,5oo was paid, and
the laying-out made the total cost amount to
^312,000. The Avenue is one of the principal
features, and forms the chief promenade of the
park. The trees are English elms. " To rightly
appreciate Battersea Park," observes a writer,
" it must not be approached in a hurry. Its
numerous beauties are worth much more than
a bird's-eye view. And here we would paren-
thetically remark that a vast amount of good has
been done towards the cultivation and encourage-
ment of flowers in our parks within the last two
decades. . . . But the palm-trees we would
speak of do not flourish in the more aristocratic
parks of the metropolis — they ha\'e found a home
over the water in Battersea Park, the access to
which is easy in all directions. Steamers ply to it
at all hours of the day ; but we prefer to approach
it from quaint old Chelsea and on a bright Sunday
in summer.

" Passing among a wealth of vegetation and
pavilions which seem to be devoted to the ac-
commodation of the cricket-playing fraternity, a
short walk brings us, after deriving much necessary

478

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Battersea,

assisiance from finger-posts, to the tropical garden ;
and a pleasanter sight we have not seen for many
a long day. Here is ths Acclimatisation Garden of
London ; and if we may believe our own eyes, we
are certainly not far behind the brilliant city of
Paris, as regards the flourishing condition of these
out-of-door palms and rare flowering shrubs. Nearly
all the books of travel we know are recalled by the
charmingly varied character of the foliage and the
quaint peculiarities of the plants. Here is a noble
palm, here an aloe, here an enormous nettle-leaved
shrub, here a plant with prickles starting up in an
angry and porcupine manner all over the leaves,
here rare specimens of Alpine flowers, and ever>'-
where beds of brilliant colour artistically arranged.

" It certainly would appear that it is the fashion
now-a-days to frame in flower-beds with the rare
variations which now e.tist of the Sempervivum
echeria and saxifrage plant. Many of these are
best e.xplained as an idealised version of the well-
known house-leek, and the compact little bosses
of plants, though over-stiff, perhaps, to some
tastes, make an excellent and compact bordering
for flower-beds. They are, no doubt, extremely
fashionable, as Kew testifies, and all the largest
landscape gardens in the kingdom. No visitor
to the Battersea Park Gardens will fail to notice
what great attention is now paid to the foliage
of plants in contradistinction to the bloom or
flower. Plants with grey and brown leaves and
sage-green leaves are preferred to bright blossoms ;
geraniums are encouraged with leaves painted as
brilliantly as a chromatrope ; variations of the
Perilla nankinensis, or Chinese nettle, are every-
where seen. And, in order to increase the strange
effect of these quaker-like beds, it is the fashion to
intermix the plants with paths and mazes of very
finely-powdered gravel or silver sand. ... It
is a charming sight, this tropical garden ; and
amateur or professional gardeners — to say nothing
of general lovers of nature — may well study it."

Here the visitor may see, on a small scale, the
flora of the Alpine region as well as of the tropics.
These and the other beauties of the park are thus
described with minute accuracy in " Saturday
Afternoon Rambles : " — " Here is the lake, with its
fringe of aquatic plants and its beautifully-wooded
island, and studded with water-fowl from various
latitudes, from the sub-Arctic and sub-tropical
regions. . . . Here are Japanese teal, Egyptian
geese, South African and Buenos Ayres ducks.
Here also are ducks from the far north of Europe,
partial to a winter temperature, but still staying on
the Battersea Park waters for the whole year round.
Among the self-invited guests on this lake is a

I colony of moor-hens, who ' make themselves at
I home ' along with widgeon, teal, and Muscovy,
I and pintail ducks. Here the moor-hen has for-
gotten the sound of the gun, and her behaviour
before Saturday afternoon visitors is as tame as
that of the familiar Dorking hen. . . . How
beautiful is that island yonder, with pendulous
trees drooping over its margin ! The ground
seems well clothed with tall grasses and low
brushwood. It should atlbrd a good home and
abundant cover for the water-fowl. Doubtless,
the swans have good landing-places, a plentiful
supply of dead rushes, coarse grass twigs, and
other nest-making materials. As we stand looking
at the lake, there comes rowing up to us, past the
water-lilies, a proud maternal white swan, with
quite a flotilla of little mouse-coloured cygnets in
her wake —

" ' The swan, with arched neck,
Between her white wings soaring proudly, rows
Her state with oary feet.'

There are black swans from Australia here as well.
Yonder goes a squadron of ducks, making an
arrow-headed track in the water. They sail round
the headland in beautiful order, and disappear,
uttering strange shrieks. But our afternoon is
waning. We must take our leave of the sub-
tropical and sub- Arctic scenery at Battersea Park.
To what other horticultural grounds, be they public
or private, around London shall we go for such
sights as these ? Here in this park — not in any
huge glass conservatory or ' Wardian ' case, but
under the open sky — are living side by side the
Arctic saxifrage, the English rose, the tropical
palm, and the desert cactus. . . . Then let
no Londoner remain any longer unacquainted with
this wonderful vegetation at Battersea. Let him
give at least two afternoons of the summer to these
sub-tropical and Alpine gardens. None the less
will he enjoy the purely English landscape scenery.
The more, too, will he delight in the vegetable life
and scenery of the zone which lies between these
sub-Arctic and sub-tropical regions at Battersea."

Close by the park are some blocks of houses,
erected by the Victoria Dwellings' Association as
homes for the svorking classes. The buildings,
which were opened in 1877, were intended as
models of the dwellings for artisans and labourers,
to replace the habitations condemned in various
parts of the metropolis under tlie Act of 1875.

At a short distance eastward of the park are the
reservoirs and engine-house of the Southwark and
Vauxhall Water\vorks Company. The reservoirs
cover about eighteen acres of ground ; and the
steam-engines have sufficient power to force the

BiUcfsca.]

THE ORIGIN OF BOTTLED ALE.

479

water through perpendicular iron tubes to the
height of 175 feet, by which means it is raised
sufticiently to supply the inhabitants of BrLxton and
other elevated places.

Some portion of the ground immediately con-
tiguous to the park is still cultivated as market-
gardens ; but before the formation of the park, and
the railway extensions in the vicinity of Clapham
Junction, some hundreds of acres were devoted
to that purpose. The gardens here were long noted
for producing the earliest and best asparagus in
the neighbourhood of London. Indeed, that this
parish at one time enjoyed the reputation of being
a place for early fruit and vegetables is shown by
the following satirical lines on air-balloons, from
the Spirit of the Times for 1802 : —

" Gardeners in shoals from Battersea shall run
To raise their kindlier hot-beds in the sun."

The produce of these gardens was likewise re-
ferred to in the addresses of the candidates at the
mock elections of the " Mayor of Garratt," in the
neighbouring parish of Wandsworth, as we shall
presently see.

In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries,
whilst its neighbour Vauxhall was acquiring fame
in consequence of the glass manufactured there,
Battersea was celebrated for its enamelled ware,
which still fetches good prices, although the manu-
facture has died out.

But Battersea has other claims to immortality :
in spite of the claims of Burton and Edinburgh,
there can be little doubt, if Fuller is a trustworthy

historian, that one of the ozier-beds of the river-
side here was the cradle of bottled ale. The
story is thus circumstantially told in "The Book
of Anecdote : " —

" Alexander Nowell, De.an of St. Paul's and
Master of Westminster School in the reign of
Queen Mary, was a supporter of ' the new opinions,'
and also an e.xcellent angler. But, writes Fuller,
while Nowell was catching of fishes, Bishop Bonner
was after catching of Nowell, and would certainly
have sent him to the Tower if he could have caught
him, as doubtless he would have done had not a
good merchant of London conveyed him away
safely upon the seas. It so happened that Nowell
had been fishing upon the banks of the Thames
when he received the first intimation of his danger,
which was so pressing that he dared not even
go back to his house to make any preparation for
his flight. Like an honest angler, he had taken
with him on this expedition provisions for the day,
in the shape of some bread and cheese and some
beer in a bottle ; and on his return to London and
to his own haunts he remembered that he had left
these stores in a safe place upon the bank, and
there he resolved to look for them. The bread
and the cheese, of course, were gone ; but the
bottle was still there — ' yet no bottle, but rather a
gun : such was the sound at the opening thereof.'
And this trifling circumstance, quaintly observes
Fuller, ' is believed to have been the origin of
bottled ale in England, for casualty {i.e. accident)
is mother of more inventions than is industry.' "

CHAPTER XXXV.

WANDSWORTH.

" Dulcia et irriguas h.xc loca propter aquas.'* — MarttAl.

The River Wandle— Manufactories— French Refugees— The Frying-pan Houses— High Street— St. Peter's Hospital— Tlie Union Workhouse—
The Royal Patriotic Asylum— The Surrey County Prison— The Craig Telescope— The Surrey Lunatic Asylum— The Friendless Hoys'
Home — The Surrey Industrial School — The Surrey Iron Tramway — Clapham Junction — Wandsworth Bridge — All Saints' Church— St.
Anne's Church— St, Mary's, St. John's, and Holy Trinity Churches— Nonconformity at Wandsworth- Francis Grose the Antiquary, Bishop
Jebb, and Voltaire Residents here— Mock Elections of the " Mayors of Garratt "—Wandsworth Fair— Horticulture and Floriculture.

Wandsworth, which lies immediately to the
south-west of Battersea, on the road to Kingston,
is so named from the Wandle. This river, which
rises near Croydon, passes through Wandsworth
into the Thames under a bridge, which, if we may
accept a statement in the "Ambulator" (1774), was
called "the sink of the country." This epithet
would appear, however, to apply to the bridge
rather than to the river; for Izaak Walton, in his
" Complete Angler," mentions the variety of trout

found in the Wandle here as marked with marbled
spots like a tortoise.

The creek at the mouth of the Wandle forms a
dock for lighters and other small vessels, and on
its sides are coal-wharves and stores. Higher up
the stream are extensive paper-mills, where em-
ployment is given to a large number of hands ;
then there are Messrs. Watney's distilleries, besides
some large corn mills, dye works, match factories,
starch factories, artificial manure works, copper

480

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Wandsworth.

mills, &c. Hughson, in his " History of London "
(1808), remarks : — " At the close of the last century
many French refugees settled here, and established
a French church, afterwards used as a Methodist
meeting-house. The art of dyeing cloth," he adds,
"has been practised at this place for more than

prodigious length, in a pair of shears which will
cut asunder pieces of iron more than two inches in
thickness, and in the working of a hammer which
weighs from five hundred and a half to six hundred
pounds ; the timbers employed are of an enormous
size, and the wonderful powers of all the elements

Tin; i.AKK, B.vrriiKbEA I'AKK. (Sie /a^v 47S.)

a century. There are likewise several consider-
able manufactories : one for bolting cloth, iron
mills, calico-printing manufactories, manufactory for
printing kerseymeres, for whitening and pressing
stuffs, linseed-oil and white-lead mills, oil mills,
vinegar works, and distilleries." At the iron mills,
Dr. Hughson informs us, "are cast shot, shells.
cannon, and other implements of war ; in another
part the wrought iron is manufactured, and the
great effect of mechanic power is exemplified in all
their operations — in the si)liiting of iron bars of.

are here made subservient in the production of
various tools and implements necessary for man in
the arts of war and peace." In fact, Wandsworth,
no less than Lambeth, has long been a centre of
industry.

It was u]ion the revocation of the Edict of
Nantes, towards the end of the seventeenth century,
that many of the French Protestants settled at
Wandsworth, and engaged in silk-dyeing, hat-
making, &c. They rented and enlarged the old
Presbyterian chapel in the High Street, and in it

Wandsworth, i

THE FISHMONGERS' ALMSHOUSES.

4^1

service was performed in French for upwards of a
century. " At the parting of the roads to Cf iphani
and Vauxhall," Mr. James Thorne tells us, in his
" Environs of London," " is a small burial-ground
— the Huguenots' Cemetery — where many old grave-
stones of Frenchmen remain, some almost illegible.
From the many English names on the later grave-
stones," he adds, " it appears to have been used as
the ordinary burial-ground for that end of the

The commons of Wandsworth, Wimbledon, :,nd
Putney have been secured and formally appro-
jiriated to the public for purposes of recreation, on
the payment of a specified rent to the lord of the
manor. Lord Spencer.

On the top of East Hill stands St. Peter's
Hospital (the almshouses of the Fishmongers'
Company), removed hither from Newington Butts.*
The edifice, which was completed m 185 1, occu-

WANDSWORTH IN I790. {From a Conlpnjioiaiy t'lin!.)

parish when the Huguenot population began to die
out."

Aubrey, in his " History of Surrey," tells us that
before his time there had been established at
Wandsworth a manufacture of " brass plates for
kettles, skellets, frying-pans, &c., by Dutchmen,
who kept it a mystery." The houses in which
this mysterious business was carried on were long
known as the "Frying-pan Houses."

The village of Wandsworth — if we may so term
it — lies principally in a valley, between East Hill
and West Hill ; the High Street, which crosses the
Wandle, is the main thoroughfare, leading on to
Putney Heath, and thence to Kingston and Rich-
mond, the roads branching off to those places on
the summit of West Hill.
281

pies three sides of a quadrangle, with a chapel in
the centre, and provides a home for forty-two poor
members of the company and their wives. The
chief entrance to the hospital is by massive gilded
gates, on which appears the motto, " All worship be
to God only." The Union Workhouse, close by,
is a large brick building, with an infirmary attached ;
it will hold between 800 and 900 inmates.

In the angle of Wandsworth Common, formed by
the West-end and Crystal Palace and the South-
western Railways, on their uniting near Clapham
Junction Station, stand three important buildings,
namely, the Surrey County Prison, and the Roya'
Victoria Patriotic Asylums for Boys and for Girls.

•^ S« ante^ p. 23!

483

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Wandbworth,

The Patriotic Asylum was founded and endowed
by the Commissioners of the Royal Patriotic Fund,
which was instituted in 1854 for the purpose of
giving " assistance to the widows and orphans of
those who fell during the Crimean and more recent
wars, and to provide schools for their children."
Her Majesty laid the first stone of the A.sylum for
Girls in 1857, and the building was erected from
the designs of Mr. R. Hawkins. The Asylum for
Boys is situated some three hundred yards distant,
on East Hill. The Surrey County Prison, or
House of Correction, was erected in 185 1, and
covers a large extent of ground. The various
buildings are constructed chiefly of brick ; and the
prison is fitted with all the latest appliances for
ensuring order and discipline among the inmates.

At a short distance south of the prison, forming
a conspicuous object to passengers travelling on
the South-Western main line, or the Crystal Palace
and West-end Railway, stood for several years the
" Craig telescope." This instrument, the largest
which had up to that date been constructed, having
a tube 80 feet in length, shaped like a cigar, was
erected on this site in the summer of 1852. The
object-glass was 24 inches diameter, and its focal
length about 76 feet, but it subsequently turned
out that the optical qualities of the telescope were
not equal to its imposing appearance, or the ex-
cellent manner in which it was mounted and
supported. The tube, which could be placed in
almost any position for celestial observation, was
supported at each end, and was slung at the side of
a massive central brick tower 64 feet high, while
the lower end of the tube rested on a support
running on a circular railway. Not fulfilling the
original expectations of its proprietor, the instru-
ment was some years ago dismantled and removed.

Another large building on the Common is the
Surrey Lunatic Asylum. It was built in 1840, and
consists of a centre and wings, with beds for 950
inmates. Prior to the erection of this asylum,
Surrey, although a metroiioHtan county, had not
been adequately provided with accommodation for
pauper lunatics — a class of sufferers whose twofold
miseries must strike deeply into every benevolent
heart. It is true that the royal chartered Hospital
of Bethlehem is situated in the above-mentioned
district ; but, from its being a general hospital, its
regulations for admission, as we have already
shown,* are not such as to meet local demands ;
hence the provision of an establishment exclusively
for the poor of the county became an important
object. The site on which the new asylum stands

* See antt, p. 360.

was a portion of the Springfield Estate, in the
hamlet of Garratt, formerly the seat of Mr. Henry
Perkins, including ninety-six acres of land, with
the mansion and farm buildings, which were re-
tained for the purposes of the asylum, the reception
of conralescent patients, Sec.

Although the building is, in plan, Elizabethan — ■
being nearly in the form of the letter E — the ele-
vation partakes of several styles. It is built of red
brick, with white stone quoins, window-dressings,
stringing-courses, and parapets, the general effect
of which is good ; but is injured by the battle-
mented towers immediately uniting with the naked,
unparapeted roofs of the extensive wings right and
left of the centre of the design. This portion is
in the Domestic style, with pedimented roofs, and
gables surmounted with Gothic finials. The prin-
cipal entrance is by a small but elaborate pointed
doorway, on each side of which are 'Small windows ;
over the doorway is a bold scroll label in masonry.
This central portion is recessed, and has three tiers
of windows, with an ornamented clock in the gable,
and a copper vane over the pediment.

On either side of the centre the facade extends
with three small windows on the ground-floor,
surmounted by a window in each of monastic
character, reaching two storeys in height, con-
trasting with the small windows immediately above
and below them. The flank of this portion of the
building is blank, save the massive corbelled
chimney. The whole frontage, including the
wings, is about 350 feet in length. The prin-
cipal doors open into a lobby, with a groined
ceiling, leading on the right to an ante and com-
mittee room, office, &c., and on the left to the
superintendent's private apartments. Folding-doors
facing the entrance open to what is termed the
grand staircase : a lofty chamber, extending the
whole height of the building and about twenty
feet square, with two tiers of corridors round
three sides of it; it is covered in with a groined
roof, and lighted by an elaborately-designed
lantern. A doorway on the ground-floor com-
municates with the galleries on either side, leading
to the males' wards on the left, and the females'
on the right. The first-floor partakes of the
same character as the ground floor for each
sex ; and two airing courts, for all classes of each
sex, enclosed with walls in sunk fences, so as to
admit of the patients viewing the surrounding
country. At either extremity of the building, in
the basements, are large groined work-rooms. The
chapel is situated across the gallery on the first-
floor, and in the centre of the edifice.

In Spanish Road, near tiie Fishmongers' Alms-

Wandsworth. 1

CLAPHAM JtlNCTION.

48;^

houses, is another of the many charitable institu-
tions with which this neighbourhood abounds,
namely, the Friendless Boys' Home. This is a
valuable refuge for boys, from ten to sixteen years
of age, " who have lost their character or are in
danger of losing it." The average number of boys
in the Home is about 200. The institution, which
was established in 1852, is one of the oldest of the
kind in or near London. The industrial operations
carried on here include carpentry, tailoring, shoe-
making, and engineering as applied to the steam-
engine on the premises ; also chopping firewood
for bundles, and making wheel fire-lighters with
resin ; gardening, care of horses, &c. A kindred
institution to the above is the Surrey Industrial

Clapham Junction Station, at the north-eastern
extremity of the common, altliough really in Batter-
sea parish, may be more fittingly mentioned here.
The station itself, which was at first one of the most
inconvenient, was rebuilt a few years ago ; and
now, with its various sidings and goods-sheds, covers
several acres of ground, and is one of the most
important junctions in the neighbourhood of
London, if not of Great Britain. As will be seen
from the diagram which we engrave from Mr. John
Airey's " Railway Junction Diagrams," this junction
is used jointly by the London and South-Western ;
the London, Brighton and South Coa.st; the London,
Chatham, and Dover ; and the London and North-
V\^estern Companies. A few years ago the number

"■*o c

FACTORY JUNC%^^
JUNC^

EXPLANATION

^WAf/OSWORTN nOAD

L&*iW -■' 1

W/ EXTJOIffTPnOPEli )EBEmS2SE5S3
afCW.LMfVLSSmSLBgSC I

\

LINES OF KAIL AT CLAPHAM JUNCTION.

School, " for homeless and destitute boys not con-
victed of crime," situated at Bridge House, on the
north side of the High Street.

Wandsworth, we may here state, occupies a fore-
most place in our railway annals, for here was made
the commencement of our modern railways. The
Surrey Iron Tramway was laid down in 1801 from
Wandsworth to Croydon, and thence to Merstham :
in all, about eighteen miles. The line — which was
called by abbreviation a " tram " way, from its
designer, Benjamin Ontram — was formed in order
to carry to the water-side the chalk dug out of the
sides of the Surrey hills about Epsom. Upon this
railroad there worked as a young man Sir Edward
Banks, who, by his own ability and energy, rose to
become an engineer, and the builder — though not
the designer, as generally stated — of three of our
noblest metropolitan structures : Waterloo, South-
wark, and London Bridges. He lies buried at
Chipstead, near Merstham, in Surrey.

of trains which called at this station per day was
863 ; whilst those which passed through without
stopping were 138 ; and it was calculated that on
an average 25,000 passengers passed through
Clapham Junction every twenty-four hours. Now
these figures would, no doubt, have to be con-
siderably augmented. The junction is the busiest
railway station in England, if not in the world.

Wandsworth Bridge, which spans the Thames,
and connects the York Road with King's Road,
Fulham, was built in 1873, from the designs of
Mr. J, H. Tolme. It is constructed of iron, and
is what is known as a lattice-girder bridge ; it is of
five spans, borne on massive coupled wrought-iron
cylinders. The three central stream spans are each
1 33 .feet broad.

The parish church, dedicated to All Saints,
stands in the High Street, near the bridge over
the Wandle ; it is a plain, square, brick edifice,
dating from near the end of the last century. The

484

OLD AND NEW LoNDOK.

[Wandsworth.

greater part of the tower is comparatively ancient,
having been built early in the seventeenth century ;
it was, however, re-cased in 1841, and has been
raised, by the addition of a storey, for the re-
ception of a peal of eight bells. The interior of
the church contains a few monuments, preserved
from the older fabric ; among them, one to Alder-
man Henry Smith, who ■ is represented in gown
and ruff, kneeling at a desk, under an entablature
supported by Ionic columns. Alderman Smith
was a native of this parish, and came of humble
parentage. He is said to have made a large
fortune by business in the City, and having been
left a widower, without children, in 1620, made
over his estates, both real and personal, to trustees
for charitable purposes, reserving to himself from
them an annuity of jCs°° ^ V^^^ f'^"' ^^^ main-
tenance. His benefactions,* as set forth on his
monument, embraced almost every town and village
in Surrey, the object being not merely to afford
" reliefe " to the needy, but the " setting the poor
people a-worke." Among other bequests. Smith
left ^1,000 to purchase lands in order to provide
a fund for " redeeming poor prisoners and captives
from the Turkish tyranie ; " ;^io,ooo to "buy
impropriations for godly preachers ; " other moneys
to found a fellowship at Cambridge for his own
kindred, &c. Alderman Smith died in 1627. Near
his monument is that of another benefactor — or
rather, benefactress — to the parish : it is a mural
monument, with small kneeling effigy of Susanna
Powell, who died in 1630. She was the "widow
of John Powell, servant to Queen Elizabeth, and
daughter of Thomas Hayward, yeoman of the
guard to Henry VHI., Edward VI., and the
Queens Mary and Elizabeth." Several members
of the family of the Brodricks, Viscounts Midleton,
are interred here. Their residence was in the
hamlet of Garratt, in this parish. The register
records the burial (April, 1635) of "Sarah, daughter
of Praise Barbone," sujiposed to be the " Praise
God Barebone," the Puritan leather-seller of Fleet
Street, whose name is well known in history in
connection with Cromwell's first Parliament.

In our account of the Old Kent Roadt we have
mentioned the fate of Griffith Gierke, Vicar of
Wandsworth, his chaplain, and two other persons.
They were hanged and quartered at St. Thomas h.
Waterings on the 8th of July, 1539, for denying
the royal supremacy.

St. Anne's Church, on St. Anne's Hill, was built

• P«rt«of his will were the suliject of protracted lilig.ition in 1877-8 ;
but in the end the v.-ilidity of his bequest was sufficiently established by
the Court of Chancery, on appeal.

t See aHtf, p. 250.

in 1823-4, from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke.
It is a large Grecian temple, with an Ionic portico
and pediment at the western end. The body of
the church is of brick with stone dressings, the
portico and pediment are of stone ; from the roof
rises a circular tower in two stages, and crowned
with a cupola and cross. The other churches in
Wandsworth are St. Mary's, Summer's Town :
Garrett ; St. Paul's, on St. John's Hill ; and Holy
Trinity, near the outskirts of Wimbledon Park.
None of these, however, call for any special
mention.

Another place of worship here is the Roman
Catholic chapel of St. Thomas of Canterbury,
which was opened in 1847.

There are many places of worship for Dissenters
here ; in fact, Wandsworth must be a place specially
dear to the Nonconformist heart on account of, at
all events, one memory. It is stated by eccle-
siastical writers that the first practical movement
to secure a Presbyterian organisation in the neigh-
bourhood of the metropolis began with a secret
meeting held at Wandsworth. The Dissenting
principles of church government and rules of
worship, as we learn from Neale's " History of
the Puritans," were set forth in a publication called
" The Orders of Wandsworth."

Wandsworth has numbered among its residents
a few men of note, of whom we may mention
Francis Grose, the antiquary, who lived at Mulberry
Cottage, on the Common ; and Dr. John J ebb.
Bishop of Limerick, who died at West Hill in
1833. As already mentioned by us, he is buried at
Clapham.J On Voltaire's release from his second
imprisonment in the Bastile, he was ordered to
leave France, and having come to England, was
for some time here as the guest of Sir Everard
Fawkener. His sojourn in England, observes a
writer in the " Dictionary of Universal Biography,"
"beside that it availed to give him knowledge
and command of the language, filled him with
admiration of that liberty, civil and religious, in
which his own country was so deplorably deficient.
In England he learnt to admire, and perhaps to
understand, Newton, Locke, Shaftesliury, I5oling-
broke. Pope, and other noted writers of the same
and of the preceding age. In truth, it was in
England that Voltaire found for himself a standing,
on the ground of philosoi)hic deism, from which he
was not afterwards dislodged by either the reasoning
or the ridicule of the atheists of the Encyclopasdia.
At no point of his course in after life did the
virulence of his hatred of Christianity impel him to

} Sec antCt p. 334.

Wandsworth.]

THE MAYOR OF GARRATT.

485

abandon this position. . . . During his stay
in England — about three years — Voltaire com-
posed the tragedy of Brutus, and afterwards, in
imitation of the Julius Casar of Shakespeare, a
tragedy, which he did not venture to bring into
public on the theatre." His tragedy of Zaire,
which he composed in little more than a fort-
night, and which proved one of Voltaire's greatest
triumphs, is said to have been written during his
stay at Wandsworth.

At some little distance on the south side of the
High Street is the hamlet of Garratt, which, in the
reign of Queen Elizabeth, appears to have con-
sisted of a single house, called " the Garrett," or,
as Lysons says, " the Garvett." This building was
sold towards the end of the sixteenth century by
William Cecil, afterwards Lord Burghley, to a Mr. .
John Smith. The mansion was afterwards the
residence of the Brodricks, Viscounts Midleton,
but was pulled down about the middle of the last
century, and the grounds which surrounded it were
subsequently let to a market-gardener to grow
vegetables.

When Lysons wrote his " Environs of London,"
in the year 1792, this hamlet consisted of about
fifty houses by the side of a small common ; but the
buildings in Garratt Lane — the thoroughfare con-
necting Wandsworth with Tooting — and its neigh-
bourhood have greatly increased in number within
the present century. Various encroachments on
the above-mentioned common, about the middle
of the last century, led to an association of the
neighbours, when, as Sir Richard Phillips tells us,
in his " Morning's Walk from London to Kew,"
they chose a president, or mayor, to protect their
rights ; and the time of their first election of a
mayor being the period of a new Parliament, it was
agreed that the " mayor " should be re-chosen after
every general election. " Some facetious members
of the club," he adds, " gave in a few years local
notoriety to this election ; and when party spirit
ran higii in the days of IVilkes and Liberty, it was
easy to create an appetite for a burlesque election
among the lower orders of the metropolis." With
a keen eye to their own interests, as well as to that
of their village and their country, the publicans at
Wandsworth, Tooting, Battersea, Clapham, and
Vauxhall, " made up a purse," to give it character.
Foote, Garrick, and Wilkes, it is stated, wrote
some of the candidates' addresses, for the purpose
of instructing the people in the corruptions which
attend elections in the legislature, and of pro-
ducing those reforms, by means of ridicule and
shame, which are vainly expected from the solemn
appeals of argument and patriotism. " Not being

able to find the members for Garratt in ' Beatson's
I Political Index,' or in any of the ' Court Calen-
dars,'" says Sir Richard Phillips, " I am obliged
to depend on tradition for information in regard
to the early history of this famous borough. The
first mayor of whom 1 could hear was called Sir
John Harper. He filled the seat during two
Parliaments, and was, it would appear, a man of
wit, for on a dead cat being thrown at him on
the hustings, and a by-stander exclaiming that it
stunk worse than a fox, Sir John vociferated,
' That's no wonder, for you see it's a poll-czX ! '
This noted baronet was, in the metropolis, a
retailer of brick-dust; and his Garratt honours
being supposed to be a means of improving his
trade and the condition of his ass, many characters
in similar occupations were led to aspire to the
same distinctions."

He was succeeded by Sir Jeffrey Dunstan, who
was returned for three Parliaments, and was the
most popular candidate that ever appeared on
the Garratt hustings. His occupation was that of
buying old wigs — once an article of trade like that
in old clothes, but become obsolete since the full-
bottomed and full-dressed wigs of both sexes went
out of fashion. Sir Jeffrey usually carried his wig-
bag over his shoulder, and, to avoid the charge of
vagrancy, vociferated, as he passed along the
streets, " Old Wigs ! " but having a person like
^sop, and a countenance and manner marked
by irresistible humour, he never appeared without
a train of boys and curious persons, whom he
entertained by his sallies of wit, shrewd sayings,
and smart repartees, and from whom, without
begging, he collected sufficient to maintain his
dignity of knight and mayor. He was no respecter
of persons, and was so severe in his jokes on the
corruptions and compromises of power that, under
the iron regime of Pitt and Dundas, this political
punch, or street-jester, was prosecuted for using
what were then called seditious expressions ; and,
as a caricature on the times, which ought never
to be forgotten, he was, in 1793, tried, con-
victed, and imprisoned ! In consequence of this
affair, and some charges of dishonesty, he lost his
popularity, and at the next general election was
ousted by Sir Harr)' Dimsdale, muffin-seller, a
man as much deformed as himself Sir Jeffrey
could not long survive his fall ; but in death, as
in life, he proved a satire on the vices of the proud :
for in 1797 he died— like Alexander the Great and
many other heroes renowned in the historic page —
of suffocation from excessive drinking I Sir Harry
Dimsdale dying also before the next general election,
and no candidate starting of sufficient originality

4P-6

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

l.^^';l^d>worth.

of character, and, what was still more fatal, the
victuallers having failed to raise a " public purse "
— which was as stimulating a bait to the in>tependent
candidates for Garratt as it is to the imiependent
candidates for a certain assembly — the borough
of Garratt has since remained vacant, and the
populace have been without a " prqffssionai poli-
tical buffoon."

" None but those who have seen a London mob

Robert Chambers, in his " Book of Days," gives
a full and detailed account of the scenes enacted
here at the mock elections for the " borough of
Garratt," which, as we have stated above, always
accompanied a general election, as the shadow
attends on a substance. He tells us that the local
publicans found it to be their interest to encourage
the managers of the fun to constitute themselves
a committee (n permanence. On these occasions

THE fishmongers' ALMSHOUSES, WANDSWORTH.

^^^P^g^j

on any great holiday," adds Sir Richard Phillips,
"can form a just idea of these elections. On
several occasions a hundred thousand persons,
half of them in carts, in hackney-coaches, and
on horse and ass-back, covered the various roads
from London, and choked up all the apjjroaches
to the place of election. At the two last elections
I was told that the road within a mile of Wands-
worth was so blocked uj) by vehicles that none
could move backward or forward during many
hours, and that the candidates, dressed like
chimney-sweepers on a May-day, or in the mock
fashion of the period, were brought to the hustings
in the carriages of peers, drawn l)y six horses, the
owners themselves condescending to become the
drivers ! "

local wits drew up a,nd printed election addresses,
squibs, and counter-s<iuibs, &c., and the successful
candiilates were "chaired" round the town like
veritable "knights of the shire." The two last
and the most celebrated members for Garratt were
those ecceiitric characters, "Sir" Jeffrey Dunstan
and " Sir " Harry Dimsdale, who flourished at
W'andsworth whilst Lord North and Pitt ruled
in Downing Street. Of these individuals Mr.
Chambers writes: — "In 1785 the death of 'Sir'
John Harper left 'Sir' Jeffrey Dimstan without a
rival; but in the election of 1795 ^e was ousted
by a new candidate, 'Sir' Harry Dimsdale, a
muffin-seller and dealer in tin-ware, almost as
deformed as himself, hut by no means so great
a h\unoiirist. The most was made of his apjiear-

483

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[WandswortK.

ance by dressing him up in a tawdry and ill-
proportioned court-suit, with an enormous cocked-
hat. He enjoyed his honour, however, only a
short time, dying before the next general election.
He was the last of the grotesque mayors, for no
candidates started after his death ; the publicans
did not, as before, subscribe towards the e.xpenses
of the day, and so the great saturnalia died a
natural death." Of " Sir " Jeffrey Dunstan we
have already given some particulars in our account
of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields,* which was generally
the scene of his daily avocations.

The Garratt election has gained more than its
fair share of notoriety from the fact that Samuel
Foote — who was present here in 1761, and paid
nine guineas for a window to view the proceed-
ings— made it the subject of a farce, entitled The
Mayor of Garratt, which was put on the stage at
the Haymarket. The character of "Snuffle" in
this play was derived from John Gardiner, a local
cobbler and grave-digger, who was one of the
candidates, under the tide of " Lord Twankum ; "
that of "Crispin Heeltap" was copied from another
candidate, also a shoemaker, who came forward
as " Lord Lapstone." The other characters also
are identified by Mr. Chambers ; " Beau Silvester "
being the prototype of " Matthew Mug," the
principal candidate in Foote's drama, who says,
in his address to the worthy electors, " Should I
succeed, you, gentlemen, may depend on my using
my utmost endeavours to promote the good of
the borough, to which purpose the encouragement
of your trade and manufactures will principally
tend. Garratt, it must be owned, is an inland
town, and has not, like Wandsworth, and Fulham,
and Putney, the glorious advantages of a port ;
but what nature has denied, industry can supply.
Cabbages, carrots, and cauliflowers may be deemed
at present your staple commodities ; but why
should not your commerce be extended ? Were
I, gentlemen, worthy to advise, I .should recom-
mend the opening of a new branch of trade —
sparrowgrass, gendemen, the manuflicturing of
sparrowgrass ! Battersea, I own, gentlemen, at
I)resent bears the bell ; but where lies the fault ?
In ourselves, gentlemen. Let us but exert our
natural strength, and I will take upon me to say
that a hundred of grass for the corporation of
Garratt will in a short time, at the London
markets, be held as at least an equivalent to
a Battersea bundle." We have already spoken
of asparagus as one of the chief products of
Fattersea/j-

* See Vol. III., p. ao«.

t See ante, p. 479.

There are in existence three very curious
etchings, by Valentine Green, representing the
Garratt elections, the scenes in the streets, and
the chairing of a successful candidate. All these
will be found given in Chambers's "Book of Days,"
and one of them we reproduce on page 487. It
must be owned that the licence assumed during
these seasons of misrule was somewhat Fescennine
in its character, and that mirth occasionally de-
generated into vulgar bufibonery ; but, after all,
the scene was little more boisterous than that
which was witnessed in our fathers' days at many
a county and borough election, where popular
feeling ran high — especially those at Brentford ;
and doubtless, the mock elections of Garratt had
their redeeming qualities in the safety-valve which
they afforded to discontented spirits.

In 1826 an attempt was made, though without
success, to revive the whimsical farce. A placard
was prepared and issued to forward the interests of
a certain " Sir John Paul Pry," who was to come
forward, along with " Sir Hugh Allsides " (one
CuUendar, the beadle of All Saints' Church) and
" Sir Robert Needale " (Robert Young, a surveyor
of roads), described as " a friend to the ladies who
attend Wandsworth Fair." This placard, which
may be read in Hone's "Every-day Book," displays
a " plentiful lack of wit " compared with those of
the last century. The project, therefore, failed, and
Garratt, in consequence, has had no representative
since the worthy muffin-seller mentioned above.

Like Blackheath, Peckham, Camberwell, and
other suburban spots round London which we
have visited in the course of our perambulations,
Wandsworth once had its annual fair, which was
abolished only within the memory of living persons.
From " Merrie England in the Olden Time " we
learn that at the end of the last century spectators
were invited to see exhibited here "Mount Vesuvius,
or the burning mountain by moonlight ; rope and
hornpipe-dancing ; a forest, with the humours of
lion-catching ; tumbling by the young Polander,
from Sadler's Wells; several diverting comic songs;
a humorous dialogue between Mr. Swatchall and
his wife ; sparring-matches ; the Siege of Belgrade,
&c. — and all for threepence ! " In the year 1840
the fair was attended by the theatrical caravan of
Messrs. Nelson and Lee, and by other lesser attrac-
tions.

Between Wandsworth Common and Garratt
Lane formerly stood Burntwood Grange, the seat
of H. Grisewood, Esq. It was noted for its
magnificent gardens and conservatory, which are
described in Bohn's "Pictorial Handbook of
London," where views are given of the exterior

Putney. J

PUTNEY FISHERY.

489

and interior of tlie conservatory and of the dairy
adjoining. The gardens of Mr. S. Rucker, on
West Hill, were, till they were built over, remarkable
for a great variety of flowering trees and shrubs ;
indeed, horticulture and floriculture seem to have
been extensively practised in this locality for many
years, for, like Battersea in former times, Wands-

worth is mentioned by Lysons, in 1795, as abound-
ing in market-gardens. It may be added that this
place a century ago had about it all the adjuncts
of a country life, for a picture painted in 1786
shows the reapers in the corn-fields here, and a
windmill in full operation at the foot of the slope
of the hill which it covers.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

PUTNEY.

*' Antiquasque domos ! " — ViTgil

The Fishery which formerly existed here— Putney Ferry — High Street— Fairfax House — Chatfield House— The " Palace "— The Bridge of Roats—
Putuey House — The Almshouses — The Watermen's School — Cromwell Place— Grove House — D'Israeli Road — Nicholas West, Bishop o'
Ely— Wolsey's Secretary, Cromwell— An Incident in the Life of Wolsey— Bishop Bonner's House— Essex House--Lime Grove— The
Residence of Edward Gibbon, the Historian- David Maliet, the Scotch Poet— John Tolland and Theodore Hook Residents here— Mrs.
Shelley— Putney School- Douglas Jerrold— Bowling-Green House — Death of William Pitt— The Residence of Mrs. Siddons— James
Macpherson— The Fire-proof House, and the Obelisk— The Royal Hospital for Incurables— Putney Heath— Celebrated Duels fought here —
Duel between the Duke of Buckingham and the Earl of Shrewsbury at Barn-elms — Reviews on Putney Heath— Putney Park — Wimbledon
Common— The Meetings of the Rifle Volunteers— The Oxford and Cambridge Boat-races— Evelyn's Visits to Putney— Putney Church— The
Residence of Gibbons' Grandfather— Putney Bridge— The Aqueduct of the Chelsea Waterworks.

In this chapter we have, fortunately, to guide us
the experience of a local antiquary. Miss Guthrie,
whose work on the " Old Houses of Putney "
deserves some formal recognition from the Society
of Antiquaries, as an attempt to rescue from oblivion
a variety of mansions which are of historic and
national interest. It is almost needless to say that
we have here drawn largely on her work for trust-
worthy information. Putney, which lies between
Wandsworth and Barnes, and forms part of the
manor of Wimbledon, was at a very remote period
a place of some little importance, in consequence
of the "fishery" which existed here. The first
mention of the name — which occurs in the " Domes-
day Book," where it is styled "Putenliie" — is in
connection with the fishery and ferry. According
to an ancient custom of the Manor of Wimbledon,
" out of every fishing-room belonging to Mortlake
and Putney, several salmons were due to be
delivered there for the licence or liberty of fishing
and hauling and pitching their nets on the soil and
shore of the lord of the manor." In 1663 the
fishery was held for the three best salmon caught
in March, April, and May ; but this rent was after-
wards converted into a money payment. At the
sale of Sir Theodore Jansen's estates, on account
of his complicity in the " South Sea Bubble," it
was let for six pounds, but was afterwards raised to
eight pounds. It brought the latter sum till 1786,
since which period the "fishery," as such, has been
abandoned, although, as we learn from Lysons'
"Environs" and Faulkner's " History of Fulhani,"
fishing continued to be carried on here till the

early part of the present century. The salmon
caught here are described as being very few in
number, but of remarkably fine quality ; whilst
smelt were in great abundance in the months of
March and April, and were highly esteemed. One
or two sturgeons were generally taken in the course
of a year, and occasionally a porpoise, which, to-
gether with the sturgeons, were claimed by the
Lord Mayor. The fishermen were bound to
deliver them as soon as caught to the water-bailiff.
" For a porpoise they received a reward of fifteen
shillings, and a guinea for a sturgeon."

The ferry here, at the time of the Conquest,
yielded a toll of twenty shillings to the lord of
the manor. In ancient times, it appears, it was
customary for people travelling from London in
this direction to proceed as far as Putney by water.
During the reign of Elizabeth it was decreed that
if any waterman neglected to pay to the owner of
this ferry the sum of one halfpenny for every
stranger, and a farthing for each inhabitant of
Putney, he should pay a fine of two shillings and
sixpence to the lord of the manor. The ferry
continued to be of importance till early in the reign
of George II., when it was superseded by a wooden
bridge across the Thames from Putney to Fulham,
of which we shall speak more fully presently.

As a town or village Putney now possesses little
to recommend it, except its ancient houses, which
are still very numerous. The High Street extends
from the river-side up to the Heath : it is a broad
thoroughfare, and contains an average supply of
shops and places of business. There are those still

49©

OLD AND New LONDON.

[Putney-

living who remember this street when it had one
very broad pavement shaded by stately trees, and
a kennel on either side, by means of which the
roadway was watered in summer.

Fairfax House, in the High Street, the finest of
all the above-mentioned mansions of Putney, is
believed to have been built by a gentleman of that
name in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. It is even
said that her Majesty dined here upon one occa-
sion. At the back of the house is a lawn, the
trees in which are said to have been planted by
Bp. Juxon. The house was pulled down in 1889.

Chatfield House, also in the High Street, is ren-
dered interesting from the circumstance that Leigh
Hunt died there while on a visit to its occupant.

On a portion of the ground now occupied by
River Street and River Terrace, stood in former
times a building which in its latter days became
known as " the Palace," from the fact of its having
been frequently honoured by the presence of
royalty, f.liss Guthrie tells us that it is described
as having been a spacious red-brick mansion of
the Elizabethan style of architecture, forming three
sides of a square, with plate-glass windows over-
looking the river, and that it possessed extensive
gardens and pleasure-grounds. It was built within
a court-yard, and approached through iron gates.

This house covered the site of the ancient
mansion of the Welbecks, whose monument, dated
1477, is in the parish church close by. The
building was erected at the end of the sixteenth
century by John Lacy, "a citizen and clothworker
of London ; " and the ceilings of one of the rooms,
it is stated, comprised the arms of the Cloth-
workers' Company among its ornamentation. Mr.
Nichols, in his " Progresses of Queen Elizabeth,"
says that she " honoured Lacy with her company
more frequently than any of her subjects." Indeed,
from the churchwardens' accounts at Fulham, it
seems that her Majesty visited Mr. Lacy at least a
dozen times between the years 1579 and 1603 ;
that she frequently dined with this highly-favoured
host, and sometimes sojourned for two or three
days under his hospitable roof; and that the last
occasion of her visit there was only about three
months before her death.

A survey of Wimbledon Manor, WTitten in 1617,
mentions the circumstance of James I. having
been in this house. His Majesty was himself a
member of the Clothworkers' Company. King
James and his queen, we are told, " went from
Putney to Whitehall previously to their coronation."
A few years later the houst in which the " maiden
queen" and " gende Jamie" had spent so many
pleasant liours was occujiied by General Fairfax.

In 1647, Cromwell, equally jealous of the Parlia-
ment and of the king, who was then at Hampton
Court, fixed the head-quarters of his army at
Putney in order to watch their respective move-
ments. The houses of the principal inhabitants
were occupied by the general officers, who, during
their residence here, held their councils in the
parish church, and sat with their hats on round
the communion-table, relieving the monotony of
their deliberations by psalm-singing or a sermon
from some popular preacher. In AV'hitelocke's
"Memorials," under date September 18, 1647, we
read : — '■ After a sermon in Putney Church, the
general, many great officers, field officers, inferior
officers, and agitators, met in the church, debated
the proposals of the army, and altered some few
things in them, and were full of the sermon, which
was preached by Mr. Peters." Old deceased
historians and local authorities, we may here state,
differ widely in their accounts of the manner in
which Cromwell passed his time while domiciled
at Putney. Thus, while the former represent him
as being entirely engrossed with State affairs —
holding conferences, and issuing mandates all
tending to the future overthrow of royalty ; the
latter, on the other hand, would lead us to believe
that his o/ie thought was the beautifying of the
place, and that his chief occupation was the
planting of mulberry-trees all over Putney.

On the escape of the king from Hampton, on
the 13th of November, the army quitted Putney,
after a residence of three months.

After the battle of Brentford, the Earl of Essex
determined to follow the king into Surrey, and a
bridge of boats was constructed for that purpose
between Fulham and Putney. The structure is
thus referred to in a newspaper paragraph of the
period: — ''The Lord General hath caused a bridge
to be built upon barges and lighters over the
Thames between Fulham and Putney, to convey
his army and artillery over into Surrey, to follow
the king's forces ; and he hath ordered that forts
shall be erected at each end thereof to guard it ;
but for the present the seamen, with long boats
and shallops full of ordnance and musketeers, lie
there ujion tlie river to secure it."
j The " Palace," at the time when it was occupied
1 by General Fairfax, is described in a newspaper
of the perioil, i)rinted by tlie authority of Parlia-
ment, as belonging to Mr. Wymondsold, " the high
sheriff." It was afterwards held by Sir Theodore
Jansen, from whose trustees it was purchased by
Paul d'Aranda, whose daughter, generally styled
Madame d'.Aranda, was its owner at the com-
mencement of tile present century when Lysons

PlllMJ-. 1

PUTNEY HOUSE.

49:

wrote liis " Environs." On the death of this lady
the house was thrown into Chancery, and after the
lapse of the usual term of years, none out of the
many heirs who presented themselves having
made good their claim to the property, it was
disposed of to a clergyman, who speedily levelled
with the ground all that remained of the interest-
ing old mansion. Some portions of River Street,
Gay Street, &c., are erected on what was once the
gardens and pleasure-grounds. The stately iron
gates, which in their time had opened wide to
admit the " fantastic Elizabeth," the " ungainly
James," and, when royalty for the time was
nodding to its fall, the martial form of General
Fairfax, were degraded into an entrance to a
brush manufactory ; whilst on a part of the once
beautifully laid-out garden was erected " a shed or
booth, where on Sunday afternoons active maidens
disposed of fruit, lemonade, &c., to carefully-got-up
young gentlemen, who came hither in crowds to
breathe a purer air than that afforded them in the
mighty city — Putney being at the time of which
we speak a favourite resort with the citizens."

In close proximity to " the Palace " was formerly
another ancient building, the residence of the
Hochepieds and Larpents ; and on the site now
occupied by two large ranges of buildings known
as " The Cedar Houses," stood at one time Putney
House, and also another mansion called " The
Cedars." Putney House, in the early part of the
last century, was the residence of Mr. Gerard van
Neck, who lived here in a style of great splendour,
and, it is said, was frequently visited by George H.,
who stayed here as his guest during his hunting
expeditions in the neighbourhood of Putney. For
several years Putney House and The Cedars
were in the occupation of the Hon. Leicester and
the Hon. Lincoln Stanhope, brothers of the
fourth Earl of Harrington. Mr. Heneage Legge,
the latest occupant of Putney House, was well
known for his benevolence. He seems to have
been, too, a true son of the Church, and showed
his appreciation of his pastor in a manner which,
to him, must have been peculiarly agreeable.
" Daily a knife and fork were laid on his table for
the special use of the Rev. Henry St. Andrew St.
John, should he choose to avail himself of the good
old squire's free-hearted hospitality, while a saddle-
horse was kept in readiness for him whenever he
felt inclined for equestrian exercise."

About the year 1839 Putney House was con-
verted into a College for Civil Engineers, which
was founded by subscriptions among the nobility
and others, for the purpose of conferring a superior
education on the sons of respectable persons in

the engineering, mathematical, and mechanical
sciences. The college was broken up \n 1857,
and the fine old mansion pulled down.

At the foot of Starling Lane stood the residence
of Sir Abraham Dawes, the founder of the alms-
houses which bear his name in Wandsworth Lane.
Sir Abraham was one of the farmers of the Customs,
an eminent loyalist of the reign of Charles H., and
one of the richest commoners of his time. The
almshouses were " for twelve poor almsmen and
almswomen, being single persons and inhabitants
of Putney." For some time, however, only women
have been admitted.

The Watermen's School, in Wandsworth Lane,
was founded in 1684 by Thomas Martyn, a
merchant of London, as a token of gratitude for
having been saved from drowning by a Putney
waterman. The school is a spacious red-brick
building, and -in it is afforded maintenance and
education for twenty boys, the sons of watermen.

Cromwell Place now occupies the ancient site of
Mr. Campion's house, where General Ireton lodged
in the year 1646. In Lysons' time this house was
a school, in the occupation of the Rev. Mr. Adams.
According to a date in one of the rooms, it was
built in 1533. Some years ago this interesting old
house was taken down, and its materials employed
in the construction of the cottage, known as Crom-
well Place. The names of Cromwell House and
Cromwell Place naturally lead one to suppose that
Cromwell himself was quartered somewhere in this
neighbourhood. It has been stated that the house
he occupied stood at the corner of the High Street
and Wandsworth Lane ; but the absence of any
record of the fact renders it impossible to fix upon
this, or any other locality, with any degree of
certainty. Grove House, which stood between
the High Street and D'Israeli Road, but has been
removed to make room for a new thoroughfare, was
a fine old mansion, also associated by tradition
with the name of Oliver Cromwell. But we cannot
guarantee this tradition, for it has been observed —
" There is scarce a village near London in which
there is not one house appropriated to Cromwell,
though there is no person to whom they might be
appropriated with less probability. During the
whole of the Civil Wars Cromwell was with the
army ; when he was Protector, he divided his
time between Whitehall and Hampton Court."

D'Israeli Road is, of course, of recent formation,
composed of middle-class houses. The naming o(
the thoroughfare seems, to have given rise to some
little difficulty, and became the subject of pro-
ceedings in the police-court ; for one enthusiastic
resident, taking objection to the name, obliterated

492

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

(Putney.

it from the house whereon it was affixed, and for
so doing was summoned by the Board of Works to
answer for his conduct, and had to pay a fine.

Putney is memorable as the birthplace of at least
two or three eminent characters. Nicholas West,
Bishop of Ely, the reputed son of a baker, was born
here ; as also was Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex,
whose father was a blacksmith in the village. The
site of Cromwell's birthplace is still pointed out by

of the papal supremacy he was made Vicar-General
of the Spiritualities, in virtue of which office he
presided at the synod held in 1537. In the same
year he was created Baron Okeham, of Okeham, in
Rutlandshire, and three years later was elevated to
the earldom of Essex. To support these dignities
he had made to him large grants of land, chiefly
in Essex ; but he likewise had conferred on him a
Errant of the manor of Wimbledon. His sudden fall

FUl.NKY HUUSK

tradition, and is in some measure continncil by the
survey of Wimbledon Manor, quoted above, for it
describes on that spot " an ancient cottage called
the smith's shop, lying west of the highway from
Richmond to Wandsworth, being the sign of the
Anchor." The plot of ground here referred to is
now covered by the "Green Man" public-house.
Cromwell, as every reader of English history knows,
was for some time in the service of Cardinal Wolsey,
in the character of steward or agent. He became
a member of Parliament, and when his unfortunate
master was lying under the charge of high treason,
distinguished himself by a bold and able defence
of the cardinal. The king, we are told, conceived
a very high o])inion of his abilities, and " heaped
on him numerous employments." On the abolition

is well known, and may therefore be here summed
up in a few words. Essex had been instrumental
in bringing about the union of Henry VI 11. and
Anne of Cleves ; and the immeiliate cause of his
downfall is said to have been the king's disgust
for the royal lady. He was arrested for treason in
June, 1540, and in the following month he perished
by the hands of the executioner.

Putney is, singularly enough, connected with the
following incident in the life of Wolsey : — On
ceasing to be the holder of the Great Seal of
England, and obeying the royal mamlatc, Wolsey
quitted the sumptuous palace of Whitehall, which
Henry had marked for his own, and removed to his
palace at Esher. For this purjiose he embarked
on board his barge at Whiteliall Stairs. The news

Putney.]

CARDINAL WOLSEY AND SIR JOHN NORRIS.

493

of his "disgrace" had spread abroad, and the
'I'hames soon became crowded with boats tilled
with men and women, liooting and insulting him,
and shouting aloud their delight to see him sent
to the Tower ; but the indignant prelate threw a
defiant glance on his exulting enemies, and instead
of descending the river to the Tower, as they had
been led to imagine he would, he ascended it
towards Putney. Here he took the road westward

news that you have brought to me, I could do
no less than greatly rejoice. Every word pierces
so my heart, that the sudden joy surmounted my
memory, having no regard or respect to the place ;
but I thought it my duty, that in the same place
where I received this comfort, to laud and praise
God upon my knees, and most humbly to render
unto my sovereign lord my most hearty thanks for
the same.'" Wolsey told the chamberlain thai liis

LIME GROVE, PUTNEY, I.N iSlO.

to Esiicr. As he was riding up Putney Hill he
was overtaken by one of the royal chamberlains. Sir
John Norris, who there presented him with a ring as
a token of the continuance of his majesty's favour.
Slow declares that " when the Cardinal had heard
Master Norris report these good and comfortable
words of the king, he quickly lighted from his mule
all alone, as though he had been the youngest of
his men, and incontinently kneeled down in the
dirt upon both knefR, holding up his hands for joy
of the king's most comfortable message. Master
Norris lighted also, espying him so soon upon his
knees, and kneeled by him, and took him up in
his arms, and asked him how he did, calling
upon him to credit his message. ' Master Norris,'
quoth the Cardinal, ' when I consider the joyfiil
282

(

tidings were worth half a kingdom, but as he had
nothing left but the clothes on his back, he could
make him no suitable reward. He, however, gave
Sir John a small gold chain and cruciii.x. " As for
my Sovereign," he added, " sorry am I that I have
no worthy token to send him ; but, stay, here is my
fool, that rides beside me ; I beseech thee take him
to court, and give him to his Majesty. I assure
you, for any nobleman's pleasure he is worth a
thousand pounds."

Bishop Bonner is said to have had a residence
here, the site of which is now covered by some
houses belonging to Mr. Avis. Bonner's house is
reported to have contained some good old oak
panelling, a portion of which is still in existence ;
it is described as being of the old napkin pattern.

494

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Putney.

u-ith this peculiarity, that in every panel there was
inserted a small cross.

Where the Lower Terrace now stands was at one
time a fine old family mansion. Its entrance-hall
and public apartments were of stately dimensions,
while the kitchen, it is said, afforded unmistakable
evidence of having been a private chapel.

Essex House is generally believed to have been
built and occupied by Queen EHzabeth's ill-starred
favourite, Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, about
the end of the si.\teenth century. The royal arms,
with the initials E. R., appear in the ornamentation
of the drawing-room, and also in one of the bed-
rooms. The wainscoting of the various rooms is
stated to be of wood which formed a portion of one
of the ships of the Spanish Armada. Some weight
is given to the tradition that Lord Essex lived in
this house by the fact that his Countess was the
daughter of Sir Francis ^Valsingham, who passed
the latter years of his eventful life in the quiet
seclusion of Barn Elms, which adjoins Putney on
the west, and where he was frequently visited by
his son-in-law.

At the base of Putney Hill, where the stately
trees of former times have given place to modern
villas, stood Lime Grove, the seat of Lady St.
Aubyn. The mansion derived its name from a
grove of limes which formed an avenue to the
house. The structure was one of those thoroughly
English mansions, erected for convenience and
comfort rather than for display. The apartments
were spacious and lofty, and contained a rich store
of pictures and articles of virtu ; among the former
were several by Opie, of whom Sir John St. Aubyn
was an early patron. This house was for some
time the residence of the family of Edward Gibbon,
who tells us, in his Autobiography, that his grand-
father acquired here " a spacious house with
gardens and lands," and resided here '■ in decent
hospitality." His father, who inheiited the property,
had the nonjuror, William Law, as his tutor ; but,
in Gibbon's words, " the mind of saint is above or
below the present world ; and so, while the pupil
l)rocceded abroad on his travels, the tutor re-
mained at Putney, the much honoured friend and
spiritual director of the whole family." Here the
historian was born, on the 27111 of April (okl
style) in 1 737 ; and his baptism, and those of his
five younger brothers and a sister, may be seen
recorded in the jxirish register. He received his
early education partly at home, and jmrtly at a
day-school in the village, till old enough to be
sent to a boarding-school. A great i)art of his
time was spent with his aunt, at the house of his
iiulerna) grandfather. This house, he tells us,

was near Putney Bridge and churchyard. It was
subsequently tenanted by Sir John Shelley, the
Duke of Norfolk, and other members of the upper
classes. Here Gibbon spent his holidays whilst
at school, until the house was broken up on his
mother's death, when he was in his twelfth year.

An amusing story is told of Gibbon in the last
volume of iMoore's " Memoirs : " — " The dramatis
pcrsome were Lady Elizabeth Foster, Gibbon, the
] historian, and an eminent French physician — the
historian and doctor being rivals in courting the
lady's favour. Impatient at Gibbon occupying so
much of her attention by his conversation, the
doctor said crossly to him, ' When my Lady
Elizabeth Foster is made ill by your twaddle, I
will cure her.' On which Gibbon, drawing him-
self up grandly, and looking disdainfully at the
physician, replied, ' \\'hen my Lady Elizabeth
Foster is dead from your recipes, I will im-
mortalise her.' "

Another resident of Putney was David Mallet,
the Scotch poet, to whom Sarah, Duchess of
Marlborough, left ^500 for writing the hfe of the
great duke, her lord. His character, as we know
from Johnson's Life of him, was immoral ; but, at
all events, it seems to have been in keeping with
such principles as he had ; for Gibbon, in his
" Memoirs," speaks of having been taken to
Putney " to the house of Mr. Mallet, by whose
philosophy,'' he adds, " I was rather scandalised
' than reclaimed."

John Toland, the deistical writer, spent the
! latter years of his life in Putney, living in obscure
, lodgings at a carpenter's, where he died in 1722.
Here, too, at the house of the Countess of Guild-
ford, on Putney Hill, died Henry Fuseli, the artist,
in 1825.

Theodore Hook, in 1S25, took a cottage at
Putney, of which neighbourhood he had always
been fond ; while at Putney he re-wrote — or com-
posed from rough illiterate materials — the very
entertaining " Reminiscences ' of his old theatrical
and musical friend, Michael Kelt)'.

At Layton House was living, in 1839, l^I'iry
Wollstoiiecraft, the widow of the poet Shelley.
Whilst resident here, or at the ^\■hite House, near
the river-side, she wrote her husband's " Memoirs."
She was the daughter of ^Villiam Godwin, the author
of " Caleb Williams," "St. Leon," and other works,
by marriage with Mary ^Vollstonecraft, who was
also eminent as a writer. Mrs. Shelley was the
author of " Frankenstein," and other novels ; she
died in 185 1.

The spacious old mansion in the Richmond
Road, long known by tlic name uf Putney Sclioul,

Putr.cv.^

WILLIAM PITT.

495

owing to its having been for generations used as a
school, was originally a country residence of the
Duke of Hamilton. Here also General Fairfax
resided for the space of nine months, during which
period he was frequently visited by Cromwell. It
is also said that the liouse was at one time the
residence of the notorious Duchess of I'ortsmoutli.
This building, which is now called Putney House,
was for a short time the Hospital for Incurables,

and bowling ; at Marebone * {sic) and Putney he
may see several persons of quality bowling two or
three times a week." Mackay, in his " Tour through
England," says that the "Bowling-Green House"
was resorted to by the citizens for the purpose of
deep play. Horace Walpolc, in a letter to Sir
Horace Mann, dated August 2, 1750, giving an
account of the apprehension of James McLean, the-
"fashionable highwayman," writes : — -"McLean had

I'AIRKAX HOUSE, I'Ul'.NEV. (6a- /JVc" 49°- )

previous to its transfer to Putney Heath. On the
removal of the hospital, the old mansion was pur-
chased by Colonel Chambers, well known as
" Garibaldi's Englishman."

West Lodge, on Putney Common, was for some
years the home of Douglas Jerrold, who here
entertained many of the men who in a few years
were destined to become the leaders of literary
thought. Whilst resident at Putney he founded
the Whittington Club, and wrote his celebrated
" Caudle Lectures."

Putney, two centuries ago, was a place to which
the Londoners repaired to play at bowls ; such, at
least, is the assertion of John Locke, who writes,
in 1679 : " The sports of England for a curious
stranger to see are horse-racing, hawking, hunting.

a quarrel at Putney Bowling-green two months ago
with an officer whom he challenged for disputing
his rank ; but the captain declined till McLean
should produce a certificate of his nobility, which
he had just received." McLean was executed at
Tyburn, as we have stated in a previous part of
this work.f

The house at Putney Heath occupied by the
" heaven-born minister," William Pitt, and in which
he died, was called at that time " Bowling- Green
House ; " it derived its name from the fashion-
able place of entertainment mentioned above, and
which existed on its site nearly a hundred years
before. In the early days of George III. it was

* See Vol. IV., p. 432,

t Sse Vol. V , p 19s.

496

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

A [Putney.

celebrated for its public breakfasts and evening
assemblies during the summer season. It was
occupied for some time by Archbishop Cornwallis
previous to Pitt taking up his residence there.

For the following account of Mr. Pitt's death
we are indebted to Lord Brougham's biography
of the Marquis Wellesley : — " Lord Wellesley," he
writes, " returned home from his glorious adminis-
tration at a very critical period in our parliamentary
history. Mr. Pitt was stricken with the malady
which proved fatal — a typhus fever, caught from
some accidental infection when his system was
reduced by the stomach complaint under which he
had long laboured. This their last interview was
in Pitt's villa on Putney Heath, where he died
within a few days. Lord Wellesley called upon
me there many years after ; the house was then occu-
pied by my brother-in-law, Mr. Eden, whom I was
visiting. His lordship showed me the place where
these illustrious friends sat when they met for the
last time. Mr. Pitt, he said, was much emaciated
and enfeebled, but retained his gaiety and his
constitutionally sanguine disposition, and even ex-
pressed his confident hopes of recovery. In the
adjoining room he lay a corpse within the ensuing
week ; and it is a singular and melancholy circum-
stance, resembling the stories told of William the
Conqueror's deserted state at his decease, that some
one in the neighbourhood having sent a message to
inquire after Mr. Pitt's state, he found the wicket,
and then the door of the house, both open, and,
as nobody answered the bell, he walked through
the rooms until he reached the bed on which the
minister's body lay lifeless, the sole tenant of the
mansion, the doors of which but a few hours before
were darkened by crowds of suitors alike obsequious
and importunate — the vultures whose instinct
haunts the carcases only of living ministers."

Lord Brougham shows us, in his "Autobiography,"
what a gentle, good-natured, and entertaining host
Pitt could be, in spite of his apparent coldness
and hauteur, by telling the story of his friend
William Napier, who went to Putney Heath on a
visit to Pitt, fully resolved to obtrude his strong
Whiggism on his Tory host. " Primed with fierce
recollections and patriotic resolves, he endeavoured
to keep up, and not to conceal, a bitter hatred of
the minister ; but in vain. All hostile feelings gave
way to that of unbounded surprise." Brougham
adds the following interesting sketch of the famous
Lady Hester Stanho])e, the niece of the " heaven-
born minister : " — " Lady Hester was there. He
found her very attractive ; and so ra])id and de-
cided was her conversation, so full of humour
and keen observation, and withal so friendly and

instructive, that it was quite impossible not to suc-
cumb to her, and to become her slave, whether
laughing or serious. She was certainly not beau-
tiful ; but her tall, commanding figure, her large
dark eyes and varying expression, changing as
rapidly as her conversation, and equally vehement,
kept him, as he expressed it, in a state of continual
admiration. She had little respect for the political
coadjutors of Mr. Pitt, and delighted to laugh at
them. Lord Castlereagh she always called ' his
monstrous lordship ; ' but Lord Liverpool she in-
variably treated as a constant theme for ridicule
and contempt."

Pitt, who was only in his forty-seventh year at
the time of his death, had been nineteen years
First Lord of the Treasury, and died on the
anniversary of the day on which, five-and-twenly
years before, he had first entered Parliament.
" In his neighbourhood," writes Mr. John Timbs
in his "Autobiography," "he was much respected,
and was a kind master to his domestics. A
person who, a little before the great statesman's
death, was in the room, stated that it was then
heated to a very high and oppressive temperature ;
and the deep voice of the dying minister, as
he asked his valet a question, startled a visitor
who had been unused to it. There was long a
doubt as to the last words of Mr. Pitt. Earl
Stanhope, in his ' Life ' of the great minister, gave
them from a manuscript left by his lordship's
uncle, the Hon. James H. Stanhope, as, ' Oh, my
country! how I love my country !' But upon re-
examination of the manuscript, a somewhat obscure
one, no doubt was left in Lord Stanhope's mind
that the word 'love' was a mistake for 'leave.'
The expression, as in this manner finally authenti-
cated, is in perfect and most sad conformity with
the disastrous state of the Continental war pro-
duced by the battle of Austerlitz, when Mr. Pitt
was approaching his end. 'We may roll up tiiat
map now,' he said, pointing to a map of Europe ori
the wall of the Foreign Office, when the news came
of Bonaparte's great victory.'

Adjoining Bowling-green House is the \illa
which for the space of two years was the residence
of Mrs. Siddons and her husband. Bristol House,
which is close by, owes its name to the Bristol
family, in whose possession and occupation it was
from the commencement of this century till some
few years ago. It may be added that James
Macpherson, the translator and reputed author of
Ossian's Poems, had a villa on Putney Heath.

In 1776 steps were taken here to commemorate
the Great Fire of London, although Putney had no
close connection with the City. A certain Mr.

Piilney.]

THE FIRE-PROOF HOUSE.

497

David Hartley, the descendant of a namesake who
more than fifty years previously had obtained a
patent for the construction of fire-proof buildmgs,
attempted to revive public interest in the invention
by a series of experiments, to which he nivited the
presence of royalty. A pillar was erected, mainly
at his instance, on the Common, which bears the
following inscription : — " The Right Hon. John
Sawbridge, Esq., Lord Mayor of London, liid the
foundation-stone of this pillar no years after the
Fire of London, on the anniversary of that dreadful
event, a«d in memory of an invention for securing
buildings against fire.''

With reference to the above-mendoned experi-
ments, Sir Richard Phillips, in his " Walk from
London to Kew " (1S17), writes: — "The house,
still standing at the distance of a hundred yards
from the obelisk, serves as a monument of the
inventor's plans ; but, like everything besides, it
recently excited the avarice of speculation, and
when I saw it was filled with workmen, who were
converting it into a tasteful mansion, adding wings
to it, throwing out verandas, and destroying every
vestige of its original purpose. One of the work-
men showed me the chamber in which, in 1774,
the king and queen took their breakfast, while
in the room beneath fires were lighted on the floor,
and various inflammable materials were ignited,
to prove that the rooms above were fire-proof
Marks of these experiments were still visible on
the charred boards. In like manner there still
remained changed surfaces on the landings of the
staircase, whereon fires had been ineffectually
lighted for the purpose of consuming them, though
the stairs and all the floorings were of ordinary
deal ! The fires in the rooms had been so strong
that parts of the joists in the floor above were
charred, though the boards which lay upon them
were in no degree affected. The alterations
making at the moment enabled me to comprehend
the whole of Mr. Hartley's system. Parts of the
floors having been taken up, it appeared that they
were double, and that his contrivance consisted
in interposing between the two boards sheets of
laminated iron or copper. This metallic lining
served to render the floor air-tight, and thereby to
intercept the ascent of the heated air ; so that,
although the inferior boards were actually cliarred,
the less inflammable material of metal prevented
the process of combustion from taking place in
the superior boards. These sheets of iron or
.-opper, for I found both metals in different places,
were not thicker than tinfoil or stout paper, yet,
when interposed between the double set of boards,
and deprived of air, they effectually stopped the

progress of the fire." The invention, however,
seems to have sunk entirely into obscurity, and
few records now exist of it except the pompous
obelisk and the remains of the original Fire-proof
House, which are still embodied in the present
building.

Owing to its healthy and open situation, Putney
is a favourite spot for charitable institutions, as
it was for two centuries for ladies' schools. One
of the most important is the Royal Hospital for
Incurables, which is situated on the summit of
West Hill, near to the Fire-proof House. This
institution was founded in 1854 by the efforts of
the late Dr. Andrew Reed. It was established
to cherish and to relieve, during the remainder
of life, persons, above the pauper class, suffering
from incurable maladies, and thereby disqualified
from the duties of life. To persons having a
home, but without the means of support, a pension
of ^20 a year is given. The first home of the
charity was at the village of Carshalton. At the
end of three years it became necessary to secure
larger premises, and Putney House was engaged.
The accommodation thus secured sufficed till the
year 1S61, when a second house in the immediate
neighbourhood was added as a branch establish-
ment. Two years later the building now occupied
as the hospital was purchased, together with the
freehold of twenty-four acres of land surrounding
it. The edifice, called Melrose Hall, had been a
distinguished family residence ; it was well built,
and contained a large number of rooms suitable
to the purposes of the institution. The building,
since extended by the addition of two wings,
now affords accommodation for upwards of 200
inmates. It contains on an average about 220
patients, whilst upwards of 550 are in receipt of
pensions from the charity at their own homes.
This institution, we may add, is unendowed, and
is therefore entirely dependent for its support on
the voluntary subscriptions of the public.

Putney Heath, some 400 acres in extent, bears
a faint resemblance to that of Hampstead in its
slightly broken surface of sand, turf, and heather.
From the higher portion some good views of
the river and the metropolis are obtained. Like
Wimbledon Common, Hounslow Heath, and other
open spots round London, this heath in bygone
times was a noted rendezvous for highwa)-men ;
and towards the close of the last century it was
the scene of so ghastly a spectacle, that few cared
to traverse it after nightfall, for here was set up
the gibbet on which the body of the notorious
Jerry Abershaw was left to dangle in the wind,
after having expiated his numerous crimes on

498

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Putney.

Kennington Common, which was at that time the
place of execution for the county of Surrey.*

The heath has also been from time to time
the scene of many bloodless, and also of some
bloody, private, and also political, duels. Here,
in 1652, an encounter took place between George,
third Lord Chandos, and Colonel Henry Compton,
which resulted in the latter being killed. Here,
too, Mr. William Pitt, when Prime Minister, e.K-

Duke of Buckingham, attended by Sir Robert
Holmes and Captain William Jenkins ; and Francis
Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, attended by Sir John
Talbot and the Hon. Bernard Howard, a younger
son of the Earl of Arundel. Pepys, in recording
this duel in his " Diary," says it was " all about my
Lady Shrewsbury, at that time, and for a great
while before, a mistress to the Duke of Bucking-
ham; and so her husband challenged him, and

ilOWLl.Ml-GRKLN HOUSE.

changed shots, on a Sunday in May, 179S, with
Mr. George Tierney, ALP.; but, fortunately, the
affair ended without bloodshed. Li September,
1809, was fought the memorable duel — happily,
not a fatal one — between George Canning and
his colleague. Lord Castlereagh. This " affair of
honour" took place near the obelisk, and close by
a semaphore telegraph wliich was erected by the
Admiralty in 1796.

.Mthough not actually on Putney Heatli, the
record of another " affair of honour " which took
place not far off, at Barn Elms, may not be out
of place here. This affair took place in January,
1667-8. The parties engaged were George Villiers,

Sec (ttilf^ \i, 334,

they met ; and my Lord Shrewsbury was run
through the body, from, the right breast through
the shoulder ; and Sir John Talbot all along up one
of his amies ; and Jenkins killed upon the place ;
and all the rest in a little measure wounded."
A pardon under the Great Seal, dated t!ie 5tli of
February following, was granted to all llie persons
concerned in this tragical affair. Lord Shrewsbury
died in con.sequcnce of his wound in the course of
the same year. During the fight the Countess of
Shrewsbury is reported to have held the duke's
horse, in the dress of a page. This lady was Anna
Maria Brudenell, daughter of the Earl of Cardigan.
After the death of her husband she was married,
secondly, to a son of Sir Thomas Brydges, of
Keynsham, Somerset.

I, The Fire-proof House.

IN AND ABOUT PUTNEY.
Obelisk in Fire-proof House Gardens. 3. Putney Church, 1825.

5. Grantham House, Putney Heatli.

4- Red Liou Inn.

500

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Putney.

The heath, however, has witnessed other meetings '
besides those assembled foi the purpose of blood-
shed, for here, in May, 1648, the good people of j
Surrey met to petition the House of Commons
in favour of the re-establishment of episcopacy, j
Charles II. is said to have reviewed his forces on j
Putney Heath; and in May, 1767, George III. re- ;
viewed the Guards at the same place. On this
occasion upwards of ^63 was taken at the bridge,
being the largest amount ever known in one day.

According to Pepys, Charles II. and his brother,
the Duke of York, used to run horses here. We ,
find in the "Diary," under date of May 7, 1667 : — ■
" To St. James's ; but there find Sir W. Coventry j
gone out betimes this morning, on horseback, with
the King and Duke of York, to Putney Heath, to
run some horses."

At tlie east corner of the heath is Grantham
House, the residence of Lady Gra!ntham. On the
west side the heath is bounded by Putney Park
and Roehampton. The former, styled Mortlake
Park in old memorials, was reserved to the Crown
by Henry VIII. Charles I. granted the park to
Richard, Earl of Pembroke, vt'ho here erected a
splendid mansion, which, soon after his decease,
was sold, together with the park, to Sir Thomas
Dawes, by whom it was again disposed of to
Christina, Countess of Devonshire. Waller and
the other poets of the period sang her praises ;
and Charles II. visited her at this place with the
queen-mother and the royal family. The mansion
was at last pulled down by Lord Huntingfield.
Roehampton has been an aristocratic part of
Putney for more than two centuries.

Southward, Putney Heath merges itself into the
more extensive area of Wimbledon Common ; but
space will not allow of our saying more of this
locality than that every July till 1890 it was
the scene of the annual meeting of the National
Rifle Association. The old windmill, formerly a
picturesque object on the breezy common, was
converted into the head-quarters of tlie Rille Asso-
ciation. These annual gatherings were attended
by the S/rU of fashion, and always included a large
number of ladies, who generally evinced the greatest
interest in the target practice of the various com-
petitors, whether it was for the lionour of carrying
off the Elcho Shield, the Queen's or tlie Prince of
Wales's Prize, or the shield shot for by our great
Public Schools, or tlie Annual Rifle Match between
the Houses of Lords and Commons.

We must now retrace our steps down Putney Hill,
and through the village to the river-side. Here we
meet with a few old-fashioned brick dwelling houses,
together with sheds for boat-building, boal-clubs,

and boating-houses ; for Putney has long been the
head-quarters for aquatic matches on the Thames.
The day of the annual boat-race between the rival
crews of the Oxford and Cambridge Universities,
which takes place generally in March or April, has
been for many years — indeed, almost without inter-
mission since 1836 — a red-letter day in the annals
of Putney. For many days prior to the race one
or other of the rival crews, while undergoing their
preparatory trials and " coaching," take up their
abode at the " Star and Garter," a comfortable
hostelry overlooking the Thames, or in the private
houses in the neighbourhood. And the day of the
race itself is looked forward to, not only by the
inhabitants of the village, but by the public at large,
with almost as much interest as is felt concerning
the fate of the "blue ribbon of the turf" when the
" Derby " is run for on Epsom Downs. In 1829,
the first year of the race, the contest took place at
Henley, when Oxford was proclaimed the winner.
In 1836, 1839, 1840, and 1841, the course was
from Westminster to Putney, Cambridge on each
occasion proving the victors. In the following
year the Oxford crew came in first, the race being
rowed over the same course. From 1845 to 1S47
the river between Putney and Mortlake was the
scene of the race, Cambridge on each occasion
carrying off the honours. In 1849, 1852, and 185.^
the Oxford crew were the winners; but in 1856 the
Cantabs once more were hailed as the victors.
From 1857 to i860 each year's race was won
alternately by the respective crews ; but from 1861
to 1869 Oxford came in first on each occasion.
The tables were turned, however, in the following
year, when Cambridge won the race, and this they
succeeded in doing on every subsequent occasion
down to 1S74. In 1875 and 1876 the race was
won alternately by Oxford and Cambridge ; but in
1 87 7 the judges decided that the race was a
"dead heat." In 1878 and 1879 the race -was
again won alternately by the contending crews.
From 1880 to 1883 inclusive, Oxford came in
victorious ; but in 1884 the honours were once
more carried otT by Cambridge. In 1885 victory
returned to Oxford, then Cambridge won four
years in succession, while in 1890, 1891, and
1892 Oxford was again successful. Putney is the
starting-point of the race, and Mortlake its goal.
Formerly the race was sometimes rowed from
Putney tn Mortlake, and at others the reverse
way ; bill of laic years the starting-iMjinl has
always been near the ugly iron aijucduct of the
Chelsea Water-works Company, just above Putney
Bridge. On the day of the race the usually cjuict
village of Putney puts on a festive appearance, the

Putney]

PUTNEY CHURCH.

5°i

place IS gay with banners, &c., and many of the
inhabitants, no doubt, reap a rich harvest for the
time being.

Putney was at one time the starting-place for
the Thames Regatta ; but other races besides the
great University contest still take place here very
frequently during the summer months. Before
quitting the river-side we may mention that in his
"Diary," under date of April i6th, 1649, John
Evelyn tells us he " went to Putney by water in
barge, with divers ladies, to see the Schooles or
CoUedges of the Young Gentlewomen." These
schools were probably those known to have been
kept by a Mrs. B. Makins, who was one of the
most clever and learned women of her time, and
had been tutor to the Princess Elizabeth, daughter
of Charles I.

The river-side of Putney at this time was pro-
bably full of picturesque "bits" of rural scenery;
for a few weeks afterwards we find Evelyn again
making a voyage thither, no doubt by barge, " to
take prospects in crayon to carry with me into
France."

Putney Church, of which we must now speak, is
dedicated to St. Mary, and stands at the bottom
of the High Street, near the bridge. It was
originally built as a chapel of ease to AVimbledon ;
the precise date of its erection, however, is un-
known. That it dated from, at all events, the
beginning of the fourteenth century is certain, as
it is on record that Archbishop Winchelsea held
a public ordination here in 1302. The ancient
structure exhibited the architecture of different
periods far apart. The arches and columns which
separated the nave from the aisles belonged to
Henry VH.'s time, while the north and south walls
were said to be coeval with the original building.
On the south side of the old church was a small
chapel, built early in the reign of Henry VHI. by
Bishop West, whom we have mentioned above.
In 1836 the church, with the exception of the
tower, was rebuilt, from the designs of Mr. E.
Lapidge, and in the Perpendicular style of archi-
tecture. The edifice is large and lofty ; some of
the windows are enriched with stained glass. The
tower, which is of four stages and surmounted by
battlements, is supposed to have been built not
later than the middle of the fifteenth century,
"from the fact of a coat of arms above the belfry
door being appropriated solely to the family of
Chamberlyn, a name not found amongst the in-
habitants of Putney since that period." On the
rebuilding of the church. Bishop West's chapel was
removed to the north side of the chancel, where it
was rebuilt stone by stone ; it is small, and in the

fan tracery of the vaulted roof appear the bishop's
arms and initials. Its eastern window of stained
glass was presented, in 1S45, by Dr. Longley, Arch-
bishop of Canterbury, as a memorial of his mother,
who was long a resident in the parish of Putney.
There are several monuments and tablets, mostly
from the old church, but none of any particular
interest. In 1877 the flooring of the chancel was
re-laid with encaustic tiles, and the body of the
fabric re-seated with open benches in place of the
old-fashioned pews.

Pepys, in his amusing " Diary," thus makes
mention of visits he paid to Putney Church : —

" 28th, 166 — (Lord's Day). After dinner,

by water — the day being mightily pleasant, and
the tide serving finely, reading in Boyle's ' Book of
Colours ' — as high as Barne Elms, and then took
one turn alone, and then back to Putney Church,
where I saw the girls of the school, few of which
pretty ; and then I came into a pew, and met witli
little James Pierce, which I was much pleased at,
the little rogue being very glad to see me; his
master reader to the church. There was a good
sermon and much company. But I sleepy, and a
little out of order at my hat falling down through
a hole beneath the pulpit, which, however, after the
sermon, I got up by the help of the clerk and my
stick."

Again, on the 2 5lh , we find this entry : —

"(Lord's Day.) I up to Putney, and stepped into
church to look upon the fine people there, whereof
there is great store, and the — young ladies!" A

later entry runs thus : — " 2nd (Lord's Day).

After dinner I and Tom, my boy, up to Putney
by water, and there heard a sermon, and many
fine people in the church."

To the north of the church, between the church-
yard and the bridge, there formerly stood an old
red-brick house, surrounded by trees, which at the
beginning of the last century was tenanted by Mr.
James Porten, a merchant of London, whose
youngest daughter, Judith, was the mother of
Edward Gibbon, of whom we have spoken above.

At the commencement of this chapter we have
spoken of the ferry which in former times was the
only means of transit between Putney and Fulham.
Down to the commencement of the last century
the want of a bridge here was gready felt ; for at
that time there was none between those of London
and Kingston. AVhen Laud was Bishop of London,
he narrowly escaped drowning in crossing from
Putney to his palace, one dark night, by the cap-
sizing of the ferry-barge with his horses and suite.
In 167 1, a Bill for the building of a bridge at this
point of the Thames was brought into Parliament,

502

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Putney

but rejected, several of the members who spoke
against it basing their argunients on the assumption
that the City of London would be irretrievably
ruined if such a project were carried out. An
Act of Parliament, however, was ultimately passed,
mainly tlirough the instrumentality of Sir Robert
Walpole, and the bridge was completed in 1729.
Faulkner, in his " History of Fulham," says : " The
plan of the bridge was drawn by Mr. Cheselden,

it. When Faulkner wrote his " History of Fulham,"
in 1813, the tcte dii pont on the Putney side of the
river was " still plainly discernible." The position
of this bridge of boats was about 500 yards below
where Putney Bridge now stands ; and the fort on
this side of the river is said to have remained intact
until about the year 1845, when it was removed;
it stood on the site of a market-ground below the
"Cedars."

i:ssi;.\ iiursE, I'Utnky.

the surgeon of Clielsea Hospital, who," he adds,
" in his profession acquired the greatest reputation,
and by the skill displayed in this useful piece of
architecture has shown the alfmity that exists
among the sciences." This, however, as Mr.
Chasemore points out, in his " History of the Old
Bridge," was a mistake ; "the records clearly proving
that the bridge was built after a design by Sir
Jacob Ackwortli, who was also the designer of old
' Kingston, Chertsey, Steans (Staines), Datchet, and
Windsor Bridges.' " This was not the first bridge
that has spanned tlie Thames between Putney and
Fulham, for, as we have stated abo\c, a bridge of
boats was constructed to enable Lord l^ssex to
cross over with his army after the " battle of Brent-
ford." Forts were erected at either end to guard

By the Act authorising the construction of the
bridge, the sum of ^62 was directed to be divided
annually between the widows and children of the
poor watermen of Fulham and Putney, as a recom-
pense to their fraternity, who, upon the building
of the bridge, were constrained from plying upon
Sundays. The proprietors purchased the ferry —
which, on an average, produced the owners ^^400
per annuni — for tlie sum of ^8,000. Lysons tells
us that on the abolition of the ferry, the Bishop of
London reserved to himself and his household the
right of passing the bridge toll-free. This privilege
held good as long as toll was levied. I''ormerly
the king paid .;^ioo per annum for the passage of
himself and his household over the bridge.

From 1729 down to the year 1885 the river

Piilney.l

PUTNEY BRIDGE.

503

here was spanned by a bridge constructed of
timber, almost as ungainly in appearance as that
of Battersea, which we have described in a previous
chapter ;* it was an ugly black structure with no
redeeming feature to recommend it in point of
taste. The length of the bridge, according to Sir
Jacob Ackworth's design, was 786 feet, and the
width twenty-four feet, with a clear water-way of
700 feet, with twenty-six openings or locks; and
there were also " on the sides of the way over the
bridge angular recesses for the safeguard and con-
venience of foot-passengers going over the same."
The bridge was lighted by oil-lamps, which were
removed in 1845, and gas substituted. With this
exception, the old bridge remained much in its
original condition down to 1S70, when two of the
locks or openings were thrown into one. Since then
three locks have been converted into one ; so that
there remained but twenty-three openings, instead
of twenty-six, as originally.

The approach to the bridge from the High
Street, Putney, is built on arches, which are thus
referred to by Faulkner : — " On Putney side there
is a stone terrace, sixteen feet wide, enclosed from
the water by a wall, being the road from the bridge ;
and to prevent the earth from bulging out, there
are arches turned horizontally in the bed of the
road, a contrivance well adapted for this purpose,
though never used before, by which means this wall
has never bent or started, though the tide rises
twelve feet against it, and it can be taken down at
any time without the least inconvenience to the
road." At the Putney end of the bridge stood a
quaint little toll-house, of red brick ; and at the
Fulham entrance to the bridge there is a double
toll-house, very quaint and foreign in its appear-
ance, the roof of which spans the roadway. In
1880 the bridge was purchased by the Corporation
of London, and the bridge was soon after removed,
a handsome new structure superseding it.

" Passing down the river," says Ireland, in his
'• Picturesque Views of the River Thames," pub-
lished as far back as 1729, "the decayed and
apparently dangerous state of Putney Bridge cannot
fail to disgust the observer. This disgraceful ap-
pendage to the river was erected in the year 1729,
when the pontage or toll was settled on the sub-
scribers by Act of Parliament ; and, as I am

• See a«/t', p. 473.

informed, was within twelve months after so greatly
advantageous to them as to repay all their disburse-
ments. At the extremities of this totkriivf bridge
stand the rival churches of Putney and Fulham,
which are said to have been built by two sisters."

Two toll-collectors were stationed at each end of
the bridge. They were furnished " with hats, and
gowns of good substantial cloth of a deep blue
colour, lined with blue shalloon, and carried staves
with brass or copper heads." These, it ap])ears,
were quite as much for use as for show, for the
people did not at first at all relish the idea of
having to pay toll for crossing a bridge. "They
did not pay when they went over London Bridge ;
why should they pay at Putney?" The conse-
quence of this was that several very serious affrays
took place on the bridge between the collectors
and the passengers during the first ten years of its
existence. But the stalwart collectors stood their
ground, until the popular discontent had abated,
and the tolls were thenceforward paid without
complaint.

In 1730 bells were ordered to be "hung on the
tops of the toll-houses, to give notice of any dis-
order that might happen, so that the collectors
might go to the assistance of each other as there
might be occasion." The two bells were occa-
sionally used for this purpose, and to the last were
rung nightly, when the day tollman w-ent off and
the night tollman went on duty. The date upon
the bells shows that they were cast in 1739.
Doubtless these bells did good service a century
or so ago, when Putney Heath and the surrounding
neighbourhood was infested with highwaymen and
footpads.

What little of the " picturesque " there might
have been in the quaint old bridge in former times,
when taken as an accessory in a view of either
Putney or Fulham as seen from the Thames, was
in the end lost by the aqueduct of the Chelsea
Waterworks Company, which crossed the stream
on massive cylindrical supports a few yards above
it.

In July, 1884, the "foundation-stone" of the
new bridge, designed by the late Sir J. W. Bazal-
gette, was laid by the Prince of \Vales. The
bridge is of stone, and has five arches, the span of
the centre arch being nearly 150 feet. It was
opened in 1 886 ; the cost of its erection was

;^240,000.

504

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Fuiharo.

uLU ruTNEV liUiDGE, 1880. {See />a^e 501.)

CHAPTER XXXVII.
FULHAM

" The mansion's self was vast and venerable,
With more of the monastic than has been
Preserved elsewhere." — Byron,

Probable Derivation of the Name of Fulham— Boundaries of the Parish— The High Street— Egmont Villa, the Residence of Theodore Hook-
Anecdotes of Hook— All Saints' Church— Fulham Bells— Sir William Powell's Almshouses— Bishop's Walk— Kulhani Palace— The l^ardcn,
— A Bishop's Success in a Competition for Lying— The Manor of Fulham— Bishops Bonner, Aylmer, Bancroft, and Ju\on— The Moat —
Craven Cottage— Jew King, the Money-lender— The " Crab Tree "—'The Earl of Cholmondeley's Villa — Fulham Cemetery— The 'Ulolden
Lion"— The Old Workhouse— Fulham at the Commencement of the Last Century— Fulham Kuad, Past and Present— Holcrofts Hall —
Holcrofts Priory— Claybrooke House— The Orphanage Home— Fulham Almshouses— Burlington House— The Reformatory School for
Females— Munster House— Fulham Lodge— Percy Cross— Ravensworth House— Walham Lodge— Dungannon House and Albany Lodge-
Arundel Housr— Sad Fate of a Highwayman— Park House— Rosamond's Bower— Parson's Green— Sanuicl Richardson, the Author of
"Pamela," &c.— East-end House— Mrs. Fitzherbert and Madame Piccolomint Residents here- Sir Thomas Bodle> — F^elbrook Common —
Peterborough House— Ivy Cottage— Fulham Charity Schools— The Pottery— A Tapestry RLanufaclory- A Veritable Centenarian.

The parish ot Fulham, upon which we now 'enter,
hcs in Middlesex, about four miles south-west from
Hyde Park Corner, and covers a large extent of
ground, the greater part of which, down to com-
paratively recent times, was laid out as market-
gardens ; and the parish still contributes largely
to the daily supply of Covent Garden. Originally,

name of Fulham ; but the usual, and certainly
most probable, derivation is from the Sa.xon " Ful-
lenhame," which means the resort or habitation
of birds. It was so called, it is supi)0sed, from
the abundance of water-fowl found here; and it
would be difficult to imagine a place more fitted
for the resort of such birds than P'ulham must have

Fulham was much larger than now, for it included been before the river was embanked, when the

Hammersmidi within its limits ; and e\en at the land for some distance from the stream was a mere

present time it has an area of nearly 4,00c acres, swamp, and, in many places, under water at every

Antiquaries have differed as to the origin of the high title. The place, we are also told, " abounded

Fulham.]

THEODORE HOOK'S RESIDENCE.

505

in trees, which gave them shelter." Camden, in
his " Britannia," derives the name from the Saxon
word " FuUcnham," or " Foulenham," 7'o/ucriaii
domiis, "the habitation of birds, or place of fowls."
Norden agrees with this etymology, and adds, " It
may also be taken for volucrum amiiis, or the river
of fowl ; for ' liam ' also, in many places, signifies
ainnis, a river." In Sonimer's and Lye's Saxon
Diciiondiies it is called FuUaiiham, or Fotil/iam,
" supposed from the dirtiness of the place."

several antiquated-looking family mansions, stand-
ing in their own grounds, and almost shut in from
observation by stately elms and cedars. The High
Street, which branches off at right angles towards
the bridge, has tjie dull, sleepy aspect of a quiet
country town : many of the quaint old red-brick
houses, with high-tiled roofs, carry the mind of the
observer back to times long gone by. As viewed
from the Thames, the scene is far different : here
we have, on the one hand, prim villas embosomed

FULHAM CHURCH, IN I825.

It is Pennant's opinion that as far back as the
days of the Romans " all the land round West-
minster was a flat fen, which continued to beyond
Fulham."

The parish of Fulham is, or was, separated on
the east from Chelsea by a rivulet, which rises in
Wormholt Scrubs, and falls into the Thames oppo-
site to Battersea ; on the west it is bounded by
Chiswick and Acton ; on the north by Hammer-
smith and Kensington ; and its southern boundary
is the river Thames. Notwithstanding its distance
from London, Fulham is now joined on to the
" great city " by lines of houses which extend along
the high road on either side. Near the entrance
to the village, by the Fulham Road, there are
283

in trees, with lawns and gardens sloping down to
the water ; and on the other the old parish church,
backed by the trees surrounding the palace of the
Bishop of London.

Close by, to the left, on entering Fulham from
the bridge, on the spot now occupied by the abut-
ment of the aqueduct, formerly stood Egmont Villa,
some time the residence of Theodore Hook, of
whom we have already had occasion to speak in
our accounts of Berners Street and Sydenham.*
It was about the year 1831 that Hook, who had
been for years the lion of West-end parties, and
the wit of all London circles, took up his abode

See Vol. IV., p. 464 ; and iDilc, p. sod

?o6

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

rFuIham,

here; having got rid of his house in Cleveland
Row, he became the tenant of a modest cottage
close to the bridge, with a small garden sloping
towards the river. Here he spent the last ten
years of his life, entertaining politicians, statesmen,
men of letters, and even royal dukes, and, in fact,
most of those who had idolised him as the accom-
plished editor of John Bull in its early and palmy
days.

As a wit, humourist, and diner-out, Theodore
Hook enjoyed a high reputation in his day; but
his jokes, on some occasions, took that practical
turn which became reprehensible. He had, besides,
a happy knack of dining, uninvited, at the houses
of strangers. In this he was successful, no less by
his unblushing impudence than by his really re-
markable powers as an improvisatore. The follow-
ing story of his ability in this way has been often
told, but will bear repeating : — ■" On one occasion he
and his friend Mathews,* the actor, found their way
into the mansion of a gentleman who was enter-
taining a select company, and having spent a
pleasant evening, to the great confusion and won-
derment of the host, to whom Hook and his friend
were perfect strangers, but very agreeable com-
panions, the intruders were about to depart, when
the gentleman of the house begged to be favoured
with their names. Whereupon Hook seated him-
self at the pianoforte and explained himself in the
following extemporaneous verse : —

' I am very much pleased with your fare ;
Your cellar's as prime as your cook ;
My friend here is Mathews, the player,
And I'm Mr. Theodore Hook !'"

Passing one day in a gig with a friend by the villa
of a retired London watchmaker at Fulliam, Hook
pulled up, and remarked that " they might do worse
than dine in such a comfortable little box ! " He
accordingly alighted, rang the bell, and on being
introduced to the gentleman, coolly told him that,
as his name was so celebrated, he could not help
calling to make his acquaintance ! Hook and his
friend were invited to stay to dinner, and after
spending a jovial afternoon, they set out for home ;
but on their way thither the gig, owing to their
tmsteady driving, was nearly smashed to pieces by
the refractory liorse.

Barhani, in liis " Life and Remains," tells us that
a friend once said to Hook, while looking at Putney
'Bridge from the garden of his villa, that he had
been informed that the bridge was a good invest-
ment, and asked him if it really answered. " I don't

* Another version of the anecdote mukcs lluuk'a Luiiii>.iiiiuti to huvc
been Terry.

know," replied Theodore ; " but you have only to
cross it, and you are sure to be told (tolled)."

It is on record that when Sir Robert Peel's first
administration was formed in the year 1834, the
Lord Chamberlain sent immediately for Hook, and
offered to him the Inspectorship of Plays, then held
by George Colman the younger, in case the ailing
veteran could be prevailed upon to resign. Th^
office was perhaps the only one which could have
been conferred on him without exposing his patrons
to disagreeable comment ; but their kindness was
fruitless. George Colman being an old friend.
Hook felt some delicacy in communicating the
suggestion to him, and the government was again
changed before the negotiation could be com-
pleted. Almost immediately afterwards Colman
died, and Charles Kerable was appointed in his
room ; and he again had resigned in favour of his
accomplished son before Lord Melbourne's ministry
was finally displaced. Their fate was announced
on the 30th of August, 1841, but ere then Theodore
Hook's hopes and fears were at an end. His
death is thus mentioned by Mr. Raikes in his
"Diary:" — "■ Swiday, 2<^th August. — The English
papers mention the death of Theodore Hook,
which has been accelerated by his love for brandy-
and-iiiater. He was a ver)' good natured, cle\'er
man, and a popular novel-writer of the day. His
social and convivial talents rendered him a welcome
guest ; but when the juice of the grape had lost its
exhilarating power he took to spirits to keep up the
stimulus ; under which excitement he gradually
sunk."

Theodore Hook's character is summed up by
Mr. W. Thornbury, in his " Haunted London," as
a " man of unfeeling wit, a heartless lounger at the
clubs, and a humbly-born flaneur, who spent his
life in amusing great people, who in their turn let
him die at last a drunken, emaciated, hopeless,
worn-out spendthrift, sans character, sans every-
thing."

The parish church, dedicated to All Saints,
stands near the river-side, at the end of Church
Lane, and the west side of the churchyard abuts
upon the moat which bounds the east side of the
palace grounds. With the exce]nion of the tower,
it was entirely rebuilt in 1880-S1, in the Perpen-
dicular style, from the designs of Sir A. W.
Blomfield, a son of a former Bishop of London.
Bowack describing the former church in 1705,
says : " It does not seem to be of very great
antiquity, the tower, at the west, being in a very
good condition, as well as the body of the
church ; it has not been patched up since its
first erection, so as to make any considerable

Fulham.]

THE PARISH CHURCH.

507

alteration in the whole building; nor have there
been any additions made, as is usual in ancient
structures, except of a small building for a school,
&c., at the north door ; but both tower and church
seem of the same age and manner of workman-
ship." So far as the body of the fabric was con-
cerned, it had not much architectural beauty. It
has been well described as " little else than a collec-
tion of high pews and deep galleries contained
within four walls, pierced at intervals with holes
for the admission of light ; in fact, one of the worst
specimens of those suburban churches which have
of late years so rapidly and happily disappeared
before the growing taste for a purer and more de-
votional style of church architecture." The only
portion of it which had any architectural pretension
was the east end of the north aisle, which was built
in 1840.

The large east window is filled with stained glass,
and one or two others have also coloured glass in
them, in the shape of armorial bearings. Most of
the windows of the old church were modern,
with semi-circular heads, and without tracery.
The tower of the church, however, is a feature of
which Fulham is deservedly proud. It consists of
five stages, and, like its twin-sister at Putney, is
surmdunted by battlements, with a turret rising
well above them. The date of its erection is
uncertain, but it was probably in the fourteenth
century. It has, however, been restored, and
some alterations have been made in its details ;
the large west window, with flowing tracery, is
modern. This tower is remarkable as containing
one of the finest and softest-toned peals of ten
bells in England ; they were cast, or re-cast, by
Ruddle, in the middle of the last century. Each
bell bears an inscription, more or less appropriate :
on one " Peace and good neighbourhood ; " on
another, "John Ruddle cast us all;" another has
"Prosperity to the Church of England;" another,
"Prosperity to this parish;" and on the tenth are
the words, " I to the church the living call, and to
the grave I summon all."

" The Thames is famous for bells," observed a
Thames waterman, in 1S29, to a gentleman whom
he was carrying from the Temple to Hungerford
Stairs. "You like bells then?" was the answer.
" Oh, yes, sir ! I was a famous ringer in my youth
at St. Mary Overies. They are beautiful bells ;
but of all the bells give me those of Fulham,
they are so soft, so sweet. St. Margaret's are fine
bells, so are St. Martin's ; but, after all, Fulham
for me, I say, sir. But lor', sir, I forget where you
said I was to take you to." Such is part of a
dialogue on the Thames as narrated by Mr. J. T.

Smith, in his " Book for a Rainy Day," from which
we have frequently quoted.

The monuments both within and without the
church are numerous and interesting, notably one
to John Viscount Mordaunt, the father of the
great Lord Peterborough. Lord Mordaunt, who
died in 1675, was Constable of Windsor Castle,
and his statue here — the work of Francis Bird,
who carved the Conversion of St. Paul on the
west pediment of St. Paul's Cathedral-^represents
him in Roman costume, holding a baton in his
right hand. Within the communion rails is the
eftigy of Lady Leigh, who is represented as seated
under an arch supported by Corinthian columns ;
she is holding an infant in her arms, and has
beside her another child, habited in the dress of
tlie times. The monument is dated 1603. Bishops
Gibson and Porteus are also commemorated by
monuments in the church. Several of the Bishops
of London lie buried in the churchyard, not in
the church itself. The example was set by Dr.
Compton, who used to say, " The church for the
living, and the churchyard for the dead." These
graves are marked by altar-tombs, for the most
part with no other ornamentation than the arms
of the diocese of London. Bishop Blomfield,
who died in 1857, lies in the new burial-ground,
opposite the vicarage. There is a tablet to his
memory near the western entrance of the church ;
it is a plain brass plate, enclosed within a frame of
Gothic design. In the churchyard there are other
monuments to men of note in our military, naval,
and civil annals. In this churchyard, in August,
1S41, Theodore Hook was buried "in the presence
of a very few mourners, none of them known to
rank or fame, including none of those who had
profited as politicians by his zeal and ability, or
had courted him in their lofty circles for his wit
and fascination." His executors found that he
had died deeply in debt. His books and other
effects produced ^^2,500, which sum was, of course,
surrendered to the Crown as the privileged creditor.
There was some hope that the Lords of the
Treasury might grant a gift of this, or some part
of it, to his five children, who were left wholly
unprovided for; but this hope was not realised.
A subscription was raised, and the King of
Hanover sent ^500 ; but few of his old Tory
friends aided the widow and orphans with their
purse. Such is gratitude !

Among the ornaments of this church is a very
handsome service of communion plate. In the
report of the commissioners to King Edward VI.,
in 1552, it is stated that they found in Fulham
Church " two chaUiss (su) of sylver, with pattents,

5o8

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Fulham.

parsell gylte, and a lyttell pyxe of sylver parsell
gylte." These still exist, and to them have since
been added two very handsome silver flagons. It
may be added that in this church was consecrated
John Sterne, Bishop of Colchester, one of the last
suffragan bishops who were appointed under the
Act of Henry VI IL, until the revival of the office
in recent times.

Faulkner, in his account of Fulhara, mentions
two fine yew-trees as growing on each side of the
principal entrance of the churchyard, and another,
very much decayed, on the north side, probably
coeval with the church itself

On the north side of the churchyard are Sir
William Powell's Almshouses, founded and endowed
in 1680, for twelve poor widows. They were re-
built in 1793, and again in i86g. The almshouses
are built of light brick and stone, of Gothic
design, and somewhat profusely ornamented with
architectural details.

From the western end of the churchyard a
raised pathway, called Bishop's Walk, leads to the
entrance of Fulham Palace. The pathway extends
for about a quarter of a mile along the river-side,
and has on the right the moat and grounds of the
palace, and on the left the raised bank of the
Thames.

The Manor House of Fulham — or, as it is now
called, Fulham " Palace " — has been the country
residence of the Bishops of London for more
than eight centuries. The present structure is a
large but dull and uninteresting brick building,
with no pretension to architectural effect. The
house and grounds, comprising some thirty-seven
acres, are surrounded by a moat, over which are
two bridges, one of which, a draw-bridge, separates
the gardens from the churchyard. The principal
entrance, which is situated on the west side, is
approached from the Fulham Road under a fine
avenue of limes and through an arched gateway.
The building consists of two courts or quadrangles;
the oldest part dates from the time of Henry VII.,
when it was built by Bishop Fitzjames, whose arms,
impaling those of the see of London, appear on
the wall and over the gateway. The hall, the
principal apartment in the great quadrangle, is
immediately opposite the entrance. As an in-
scription over the chimney-piece states, it was
erected, as well as the adjoining courtyard, by
Fitzjames, on the site of a former palace, which
was as old as the Conquest. It was com]jlcted by
Bishop Fletciicr, father of the dramatist, in 1595;
used as a liall by Bishop Bonner and Bishop
Ridley during the struggles of the Reformation,
and retained its original proportions till it was

altered in the reign of George IL, by Bishop
Sherlock, whose arms, carved in wood, appear
over the fire-place. Bishop Howley, in the reign
of George IV., changed it into a private un-
consecrated chapel ; but it was restored to its
original purposes as a hall in the year i86S, on
the erection by Bishop Tait — later Archbishop of
Canterbury — of a new chapel of more suitable
dimensions. The hall is a good-sized room, and
contains in the windows the arms of the Bishops
of London ; it is wainscoted all round, and has
a carved screen at one end. Upon the walls
hang portraits of Henry VII., George II., Queen
Anne, Queen Mary II. , William III., Henry VIIL,
James II. , Charles I., and Cromwell, besides two
full-length pictures — one representing Margaret of
Anjou, and the other Thomas a Becket.

The new chapel, which is on the south-west side
of the older portion of the palace, is a small brick-
built edifice, erected at the cost of Bishop Tait,
from the designs of Mr. Butterfield, and con-
secrated in 1867. Externally the building has
little or no architectural pretensions ; but the
interior is finished and fitted up in the regular
orthodox manner, the chief ornamental feature
being an elaborate mosaic reredos, representing
the adoration of the shepherds at Bethlehem ; it
was executed by Salviati from designs by Mr.
Butterfield.

One of the most interesting rooms in the palace
is the Porteus library, which contains an extensive
collection of books, gathered by the divine whose
name it bears ; it has a large window opening
upon the lawn and overlooking the river. Some
thousands of volumes, mostly on theological and
religious subjects, fill up its ample shelves. There
are collections of sermons in abundance, com-
mentaries on the gospels, black-letter Bibles, and
a large number of theological works. All around
suggests meditation and repose. On one side
of the room the windows are emblazoned with
the armorial bearings of the different prelates, and
on its walls hang the portraits of all the Bishops
of London since the Reformation.

" All are there," writes Bishop Blomfield's son
in the Life of his father — " Ridley, the martyr ;
Sandys and Grindal ; the ambitious Laud ; Juxon,
the friend of Charles I. ; Compton, who had
adorned the palace gardens with those rare and
stately trees ; the statesman Robinson ; the learned
Gibson ; the divines Sherlock and Lowth ; the
mild and amiable Porteus, who loved Fulham
so well, and thanked God the evening before his
death that he had been suffered to return thither
to die ; and Howley and Blomfield."

Fiilham.]

THE BISHOP'S PALACE.

ijoq

The great drawing-room and the dining-room
are large and handsome apartments on the east
side of the palace, with windows looking out upon
the lawn and gardens. This part of the building
dates from the time of Bishop Terrick, who was
appointed to the see in 1764. It has since been
considerably altered and repaired at different times.
It is a long, plain brick structure of two storeys, its
only ornamentation being an embattled summit.

The palace was considerably altered in appear-
ance early in the last century. Bishop Robinson,
in 1715, presented a petition to the Archbishop
of Canterbury, stating that " the manor-house, or
palace, of Fulham was grown very old and ruinous,
that it was much too large for the revenues of the
bishopric, and that a great part of the building
was become useless." In consequence of this
petition, as Lysons tells us, certain commissioners
(among whom were Sir John Vanbrugh and Sir
Christopher Wren) were appointed to e.xamine the
premises. The purport of their report was, that
"after taking down the bake-house and pastry-
house, which adjoined to the kitchen, and all the
buildings to the northward of the great dining-
room, there would be left between fifty and sixty
rooms, besides the chapel, hall, and kitchen.''
These being adjudged sufficient for the use of the
bishop and his successors, a licence was granted to
pull down the other buildings ; and this, it appears,
was carried into effect. The present kitchen is on
the north side of the great quadrangle ; it is a large
high-pitched room, and the ceiling is enriched with
stucco ornamentation of an ancient character.

From the low situation of the palace and grounds,
much inconvenience is at times felt when the
Thames overflows its banks. A notable instance
of this occurred in 1874, when considerable damage
was occasioned. In some of the rooms of the
palace the flooring was upheaved and destroyed by
the force of the water, whilst a very large part of
the palace grounds was flooded for several days. j

The gardens are of great antiquity, and have j
been famous for their beauty and scientific culture |
since the time of Bishop Grindal, in the reign of
Queen Elizabeth. It appears that Grindal got
himself into some trouble by sending some fine
grapes to the queen, with whom they disagreed,
and the bishop was accused of having the plague
in his house, an accusation which he disproved.

According to Fuller's '' Worthies," it was Grindal
who first imported the tamarisk into this country.
This tree, writes Fuller, "hath not more affinity in
sound with tamarind than sympathy in extraction,
both originally Arabick ; general similitude in
leaves and operation ; only tamarind in England is

an annual, dying at the approach of winter, whilst
tamarisk lasteth many years. It was first brought
over by Bishop Grindal out of Switzerland, where
he was exiled under Queen Mary, and planted in
his garden at Fulham, in this county, where the
soil being moist and fenny, well complied with the
nature of this jjlant, which since is remo\ed, and
thriveth well in many other places."

The great gardener of the palace, however, was
Bishop Compton, who was banished to Fulham by
James II., and remained in the place for two
years, attending specially to his garden. In this
he planted many exotics and trees from other
countries, then almost unknown in England. A
great cork-tree, now much decayed, but at one
time the largest in England, and also a large ilex,
are traditionally said to have been planted by
his hands. Bishop Blomfield planted a cedar of
Lebanon, which is now a fine tree, though, com-
paratively speaking but a few years old ;, but it can
scarcely be said to rival its elder sisters.

The grounds of the palace are remarkable for
the thickness with which the trees are planted.
One bishop having thinned them considerably,
Sir Francis Bacon told him that "having cut
down such a cloud of trees, he must be a good
man to throw light on dark places." It may be
added that Sir William AA'atson, who made a
botanical survey of the grounds a hundred years
ago, speaks of this garden in the following terms,
in a report to the Royal Society : — " The famous
Botanical Garden at Fulham, wherein Dr. Henry
Compton, heretofore Bishop of London, planted a
greater variety of curious exotic plants and trees
than had at any time been collected in any garden
in England."

Fond as Evelyn was of gardening, as we have
already shown in our account of Saye's Court,
Deptford,* it is not surprising that we find him a
visitor here. In his " Diary," under date of
October 11, 1681, he writes : — " I went to Fulham
to visit the Bishop of London, in whose garden I
saw the Sedwn arborescais in flower, which was
exceedingly beautiful."

Among the curiosities at one time to be seen in
the palace was a whetstone, which was placed there
by Bishop Porteus under somewhat singular cir-
cumstances. The story, showing the bishop's
success in a " competition in lying," is thus told in
the New Quarterly Magazine : —

"In EUzabethan times the game of brag was
very popular. ' Lying with us,' writes Lupton, in
1580, 'is so loved and allowed, that there are

• See ante, p. 152.

510

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Fulham.

many tymes gamings and prizes therefore, purposely
to encourage one to outlye another.' In the last
century there were several organised Lying Clubs,
one of which for many years held its meetings at
the 'Bell Tavern,' Westminster. Among other
rules of this society were the following : — ' That

said the Lord Keeper, 'it was a whetstone.' At
Coggeshall, in Essex, there was a famous institu-
tion of this kind. There is a story that Bishop
Porteus once stopped in this town to change
horses, and observing a great crowd in the streets,
put his head out of the window to inquire the

whoever shall presume to speak a word
of truth between the established hours of
six and ten, within this worshipful society, without
first saying, "By your leave, Mr. President," shall for
every such offence forfeit one gallon of such wine
as the chairman shall think fit.' A coarser form
of the same intellectual amusement is the custom
of lying for the whetstone, which formerly obtained
at village feasts in many parts of England. It was
perhaps, some popular version of the story of King
Tarquin's whetstone cut through by a ra/.or which
caused this article to be selected as the appro-
priate prize ; it may have been only an ingenious
symbolism to exjiress the necessary whetting of the
wits ; but, at any rate, it was the recognised emblem
of lying, and is illustrated by a witty sarcasm of
Bacon upon Sir Kenelm Digby. The latter, upon
his return from the Continent, was boasting of
having seen tlic [jhilosopher's stone. ' Perliaps/

Till'. MOAT, FULI1.\M rAI..\(.E.

cause. A townsman standing near replied that it
was the da)' upon which tliey gave the whetstone
to the biggest liar. Shocked at such depravity,
tlie good bishop proceeded to the scene of the
competition, and lectured the crowd upon the
enormity of the sin, concluding his discourse with
tJie emphatic words, ' I never told a lie in my
life.' Wiicrcupon the chief umpire e.vchanged a
few words with liis fellows, and approaching tlie
carriage, said, ' My lord, we unanimously adjudge
, you the prize!' and forthwith the liighly objection-

FULHAM PALACE IN 1798.
I. South-east Front. 2. The Chapel. 3. Inner Courtyard.

5"

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Fulham.

able whetstone was thrust in at the carriage
window. Tradition adds, that in course of time
the good-natured bishop forgot the indignity, and
began to reHsh the joke, inasmuch as for many
years the identical whetstone occupied the post of
honour over the fire-place in his dining-room at
Fulham."

The manor of Fulham, we may here state, is
one of the oldest in England, having been granted
in 631, by the Bishop of Hereford, to Bishop
Erkenwald, of London, so that it has existed as an
appanage of the see for upwards of twelve hundred
and fifty years. This manor was originally held
by service of masses for the dead ; but at a later
period military service was exacted from all holders
of manors. The only service now required from
the Bishop of London is the maintenance of a
watchman to guard the garden and grounds.
There is every reason to believe that the manor-
house here was occupied at the time of the
Conquest; but the first mention of this was in
the account of the capture of Robert de Sigillo,
Bishop of London, who was a partisan of the
Empress Maud, and was made prisoner and held
to ransom by the followers of Stephen. Bishop
Richard de Gravesend resided much at Fulham,
and died here in 1303. His successor, Richard
Baldock, who was Lord Chancellor of England,
dates most of his public acts from Fulham Palace ;
but Bishop Braybroke, who enjoyed the same high
office, and presided over the see of London nearly
twenty years, seems to have spent but little of his
time at this place, as he resided mostly at Stepney.
Lysons, in his " Environs of London," says that
" of Bishop Bonner's residence at Fulham, and of
his cruelties, some facts are recorded in history,
and many traditions are yet current. A large
wooden chair, in which he is said to have sat
to pass sentence upon heretics," he adds, " was
placed, a few years ago, in a shrubbery near the
palace, which gave occasion to an elegant poem,
written by Miss Hannah More, who was then on a
visit at the bishop's." This poem, called " Bishop
Bonner's Ghost," was printed at the Earl of Orford's
private press at Strawberry Hill. One deprived
bishop of the English Church, John Byrde (who
was the last "provincial" of the Carmelites, and
afterwards became Bishop of Chester), seems to
have found an asylum with Bonner, and was living
with him at Fulham in 1555. "Upon his coming,"
says .'\nthony Wood, in his " Athene O.xonienses,"
"he brought his present with him — a dish of apples
and a bottle of wine." Bishop Aylmer, or Elmer,
was principally resident at Fulham Palace, where
he died in 1594. Tlie zeal with which he sup-

ported the interests of the Established Church
exposed him to the resentment of the Puritans,
who, among other methods which they took to
injure the bishop, attempted to prejudice the
queen against him, alleging that he had com-
mitted great waste at Fulham by cutting down
the elms ; and, punning upon his name, they gave
him the appellation of Bishop Mar-elm ; " but it
was a shameful untruth," says Strype, " and how
false it was all the court knew, and the queen
herself could witness, for she had lately lodged
at the palace, where she misliked nothing, but
that her lodgings were kept from all good prospect
by the thickness of the trees, as she told her
vice-chamberlain, and he reported the same to
the bishop."

Fulham Palace has been honoured with the
presence of royalty on several occasions. Norden
says that Henry HI. often lay there. Bishop
Bancroft here received a visit from Queen Elizabeth
in 1600, and another two years later. King James
likewise visited him previously to his coronation.
In 1627, Charles I. and his queen dined here with
Bishop Mountaigne.

During the Civil Wars we find that most of the
principal inhabitants of Fulham, as might have
been expected, were staunch Royalists; One of
the most prominent was the Bishop (Juxon) who
attended his royal master on the scafibld, and to
whom the king addressed his last mysterious word,
" Remember ! " Juxon was deprived of his see,
and the manor and palace of Fulham were sold to
Colonel Edward Harvey, in 1647. The bishop
then retired to his own house at Compton, in
Gloucestershire, where he had the singular good
fortune to remain undisturbed until the Restoration.
With reference to this fact, old Fuller quaintly
remarks : — " For in this particular he was happy
above others of his order, that whereas they may
be said in some sort to have left their bishoprics,
flying into llie king's quarters for safety, he stayed
at home till his bishopric left him, roused him from
his swan's nest at Fulham, for a bird of another
feather to build therein." It should be mentioned
here that a large tithe-barn which stands in the
palace grounds was built by Colonel Harvey during
his tem])orary tenure of the place under the Com.
monwealth. On a beam over the doors is carved
the date, 1654.

Tiie moal which encompasses the palace grounds
is about a mile in circumference, and has been con-
sidered by some antiquaries to have been formed
by the Danish army, when they were encamped in
this neighbourhood in 879. Mr. Blomfield, in his
"Olden Times of I'ulliam," observes : "As winter

Fulham.]

CRAVEN COTTAGE.

5'3

came on, it is not improbable that they [the Danes]
found the high tides encroaching seriously on their
position ; and not Hking to leave the river and run
the risk of being cut off from their ships, they set
vigorously to work, and threw up a bank with a
ditch along the river-flank of their army. The
work once begun would not be hastily relinquished.
Having to pass the winter in a hostile country,
they would naturally be anxious to fortify their
position by carrying the ditch round the whole
camp. The Danish army gone, it was not likely
that any bishop would be at the expense of levelling
the banks and filling up a ditch of such magnitude,
enclosing as it does, and protecting from the river,
a space of ground in the centre of his manor most
convenient for making a residence."

Enveloped as its origin is in mystery, it is certain,
from existing documents, that this moat has been
the subject of various disputes, and a cause of
annoyance, or at least of discomfort, to many suc-
cessive bishops. In 1618, Dr. Edwardes, Chancellor
of the diocese of London, left ;^io, "towards
erecting a sluice to communicate with the river
Thames, to preserve the moat from noisomeness."
Before this, the water was never changed ; the
moat was only filled by the water which filtered in
through the banks, and stood stagnant from years'
end to years' end. After the formation of the
sluice, the water was changed once a month. To
cleanse this immense moat, to make additional
sluices, to replace the river embankments, to raise
by several feet a water-meadow of many acres, to
renew all the fences, and to put the whole of a
neglected estate into a condition of perfect order,
appeared in Bishop Blomfield's eyes a duty laid
upon him as a trustee of Church property, and in
the discharge of that duty he spent as much as
^10,000.

At a short distance westward of the palace stands
Craven Cottage, a cliarming retreat by the water-
side. It was originally built for the Countess
of Craven, afterwards Margravine of Anspach, but
has been considerably altered and enlarged by
subsequent proprietors. After the Margravine,
the cottage was for some years the residence of
Mr. Denis O'Brien, the friend of Charles James
Fox, and in 1805 it was sold to a Sir Robert
Barclay. Mr. Walsh Porter, who was its next
occupant, is said to have spent a large sum in
altering and embellishing it. About 1843 it be-
came the residence of Sir E. Bulwer Lytton. He
was living here in 1846, when he entertained Prince
Louis Napoleon at dinner, after his then recent
escape from the fortress of Ham. The house was
at one time the residence of a celebrated money-

lender, who was generally known as "Jew King."
He was, as Captain Gronow tells us, in his amusing
" Reminiscences," a man of some talent, and had
good taste in the fine arts. He had made the
peerage a complete study, knew the e.xact position
of every one who was connected with a coronet,
the value of his property, how deeply the estates
were mortgaged, and what encumbrances weighed
upon them. Nor did his knowledge stop there ;
by dint of sundry kind attentions to the clerks of
the leading banking-houses, he was aware of the
balances they kept, and the credit attached to
their names, so that, to the surprise of the bor-
rower, he let him into the secrets of his own actual
position. He gave excellent dinners, at which
many of the highest personages of the realm were
present ; and when they fancied that they were
about to meet individuals whom it would be upon
their conscience to recognise elsewhere, were not a
little amused to find clients quite as highly placed
as themselves, and with purses quite as empty.
King had a well-appointed house in Clarges Street,
Piccadilly; but it was here that his hospitalities
were most lavishly and luxuriously exercised.
Here it was that Sheridan told his host that he
liked his dinner-table better than his multiplication
table ; to which his host, who \vas not only witty,
but often the cause of wit in others, replied, " I
know, Mr. Sheridan, your taste is more for Jo-king
than for Jew King," alluding to the admirable per-
formance of the actor. King, in Sheridan's School
for Scandal.

Craven Cottage, as left by Walsh Porter in 1809,
was considered the prettiest specimen of cottage
architecture then existing. The three principal
reception-rooms are described as having been
equally remarkable for their structure as well as
their furniture. " The centre, or principal saloon,"
Croker tells us in his "Walk from London to
Fulham," "was supported by palm-trees of con-
siderable size, exceedingly well executed, with
their drooping foliage at the top, supporting the
cornice and architraves of the room. The other
decorations were in corresponding taste. . . .
This room led to a large Gothic dining-room
of very considerable dimensions, and on the
front of the former apartment was a very large
oval rustic balcony, opposed to which was a
large half-circular library, that became more
celebrated afterwards as the room in which the
highly-gifted and talented author of 'Pelham'
wrote some of his most celebrated works." Along
the Thames side of the house a raised terrace was
constructed, and the grounds were laid out with
great taste.

514

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Fulham.

Continuing our course westward a short distance
farther, we come to a house known as the " Crab
Tree," which has long been famiUar to all Thames
oarsmen, amateurs and professionals aUke. The
crab is the indigenous apple-tree of this country,
and its abundance in this neighbourhood formerly
gave its name to the adjoining part of the parisli.
Faulkner, in his " History of Fulham," remarks that
"it has been said by some ancient people that
Queen Elizabeth had a country seat here. Some
few years ago," he adds, " a very ancient outbuild-
ing belonging to Mr. Eayres fell to the ground
through age. Upon clearing away the rubbish, the
workmen discovered, in the corner of a chimney,
a black-letter Bible, handsomely bound and orna-
mented with the arms of Queen Elizabeth, in good
preservation."

Early in the present century a villa was built on j
the banks of the Thames, near the " Crab Tree," j
for the Earl of Cholmondeley. The design for the
edifice was taken from a villa in Switzerland, which
his lordship had seen on his travels. The house
was built chiefly of wood, of the earl's own growing,
and the interior was principally fitted up with cedar
of the largest growth ever produced in this country.
The exterior was covered with coloured slates,
having nearly the same appearance and solidity as
stone. The front ne.xt the river was ornamented
with a colonnade, extending the whole length of
the building, and thatched with reeds, to correspond
with the roof The house, however, has long since
been pulled down.

Passing up Crab Tree Lane, and returning to
the village by the Hammersmith and Fulham Road,
we pass on our left the cemetery for the ])arish of
Fulham, which was opened in 1865. It is laid out
in Fulham Fields, and covers several acres of land
which had ]jreviously served to rear fruit and vege-
tables. The land all around for a considerable
distance, stretching away towards Hammersmith
and North End, is still covered with market-gardens,
excepting here and there where a few modern build-
ings have been erected. Among these is the St.
James's Home and Penitentiary, wliich was origi-
nally established at Whetstone.

Continuing our course eastward, we reach the
High Street, which extends from tjie I,ondon — or
rather Fulham — Road to Churcli Row. This
thoroughfare appears at one time to have been
called Bear Street, and in the more ancient parish-
books it is denominated Fulliam Street.

The old "Golden Lion," in this street, which
was pulled down only a few years ago to make
room for a new public-house bearing the same
sign, is closely connected by tradition with the

annals of tlie palace. The old house, which dated
back to the reign of Henry VIL, is said to have
been the residence of Bishop Bonner, and when
converted into an inn, to have been frequented by
Shakespeare, Fletcher, and other literary cele-
brities. Bishop Bonner, according to one account,
died at Fulham in his arm-chair, smoking tobacco ;
and the late Mr. Crofton Croker, in a paper read by
him before the British Archaeological .Association at
Warwick, tried to show that an ancient tobacco-pipe,
of Elizabethan pattern, found, in situ, in the course
of some alterations made in 1836, was the veritable
pipe of that right reverend prelate ! Strange
stories are told of a subterranean passage which
existed, it is said, between this house and the
palace. On the pulling down of the old " Golden
Lion," the panelling was purchased by the second
Lord EUenborough, for the fitting up of his resi-
dence, Southam House, near Cheltenham.

The Workhouse formerly stood on the east side
of the High Street. It was built in 1774, but
had been in a dilapidated condition for many years,
and was pulled down about i S60 ; a large Union
for the joint parishes of Fulham and Hammersmith
having been erected in Fulham Fields. Cipriani,
the Florentine painter, lived for some time close to
the workhouse ; he died in London in 1783.

Li 1883 a new church, dedicated to St. Peter,
was built on the Salisbury estate, Fulham.

In order to gain some idea of what the external
appearance of Fulham was at the commencement
of tlie last century, we have only to suppose our-
selves carried back to that date, and to be walking
through the village with old Master Bowack, the
author of a " History of Fulham" published about
that time. We shall observe, as he tells us, " that
the houses are commonly neat and well built of
brick, and from the gate of tlie Queen's Road run
along on both sides of the way almost as far as the
church. Also from the Thames side into tlie town
stands an entire range of buildings, and u[)on the
passage leading to the church, called Ciiurch Lane,
are several very handsome airy houses. But the
buildings run farthest towards the north, extending
themselves into a street through which lies the road
a very considerable way towards Hammersmith.
Besides, there are several other liandsome build-
ings toVards the east, called the Back Lane, and a
great number of gardeners' houses scattered in the
several remote parts of tlie parish." Judging from
the above description, a visitor to Fulham now
would find that the locality has undergone (in
external appearance, at least) marvellously little
alteration during the time that has elapsed since
it was written. " E.xcept that the Back Lane has

, Fulham.]

FULHAM ROAD.

515

apparently lost most of its architectural gems, and
that lilysium Row has sprung into existence and
grown old and venerable since then," writes Mr.
Blomfield, in his work above quoted, "the prin-
cipal features of the town (whitewash and stucco
apart) appear to be much the same. The aspect
of the river-side was, of course, very different. The
bridge was not built till twenty years later, and the
road came down to the bank, and, indeed, in a
pleasant green, on one side of which stood the old
' Swan ' Inn, and the other side was overshadowed
by elm-trees. A clump of trees stood at one
corner of the road, above which rose the tower of
the church, with its leaden spire, and at the river-
side lay the ferry-boat, waiting for passengers.
Fulham was then a point for pleasure-parties on
the water, as Richmond and Kew are now. lu
comparing our appearance now with what it was
then," continues Mr. Blomfield, " we must not, of
course, venture beyond the pump at the end of
High Street, and get entangled in the mushroom
growth of semi-detached villas which have been for
years slowly but relentlessly driving back the
struggling market-gardener from point to point into
the river. We must think of the London Road as
it was at that time, not bordered by comfortable
houses, rows of snug-looking whitewashed villas,
smart public-houses, or red-brick hospitals, but
with a yawning ditch on each side, and, beyond
these, green fields and garden-grounds, hedges and
orchards, and now and then a clump of elms and
a farmhouse or a gardener's cottage peeping through ;
for as to regular roadside houses, you would not
pass a score between Fulham Pump and Hyde
Park. Nor must we forget that the traveller would
observe between Fulham and London certainly not
less than three gallows-trees, bearing their ghastly
fruit of highwaymen hung in chains. Then the
road itself was very dififerent from what it is now :
the only idea at that time of making a good road
was to pave it, and, accordingly, the Fulham Road
was paved, but only in one or two places ; till, at
length, what with part being badly paved, and part
left unpaved, and deep in its native mud ; what
with the narrowness of the way in many places,
and the depth of the ditches on each side, the
road grew so dangerous that, a few years later,
it was found necessary to take the matter up
in Parliament. It then appeared that a rate of
two shillings in the pound was not considered
sufficient to put the road into a safe state ; that it
was almost impassable in winter ; and that a great
deal of mischief had been done to persons who
travelled on that road." If this were so, the
state of the road will almost seem to justify the

derivation of the name of the village as the Foid-
ham.*

Seeing the Fulham Road as it is now, swarming
with omnibuses and butchers' carts, carriages, and
coal-wagons, it is very difficult to imagine its con-
dition a century and a half ago, with perhaps " a
solitary market-wagon toiling through the mud, or
drawing to one side, at the imminent risk of sliding
into the ditch, to allow the Duchess of Munster —
who lived in a large mansion near the entrance to
the village — to pass by in her great lumbering coach
and six, tearing along at the dangerous rate of five
miles an hour ! " But bad as the Fulham Road
was in the olden time, the inconvenience of having
to travel over it was, to Bishop Laud, at least, an
advantage; for, as we have already had occasion
to mention in our account of Whitehall,! in one of
his letters to Lord Strafford, alluding to his health as
not being so good as it was formerly, he expresses
a regret that in consequence of his elevation to the
see of Canterbury he has now simply to glide across
the river in his barge, when on his way either to
the Court or the Star-Chamber ; whereas, when
Bishop of London, there were five miles of rough
road between Fulham Palace and Whitehall, the
jolting over which in his coach he describes as
having been very beneficial to his health.

Holcrofts, which stands on the left side of the
Fulham Road, as we pass from the top of the
High Street, dates from the early part of the last
century, when it was built by Robert Limpany, a
wealthy merchant of London, whose estate in this
parish was so considerable that, as Bowack tells us,
" he was commonly called the Lord of Fulham."
The house, which formerly had a long avenue of
trees in front of it, was sold to Sir 'William Withers,
in 1708, and became afterwards successively the
residence of Sir Martin Wright, one of the Justices
of the King's Bench, and of the Earl of Ross.
The building was subsequently known as Holcrofts
Hall, and was for some time occupied by Sir John
Burgoyne, who here gave some clever dramatic
performances. Here it was that the celebrated
Madame Vestris lived, after her marriage with
Charles Mathews, the well-known actor, and here
she died in 1856, at which time the house was
called Gore Lodge.

Holcrofts Priory, on the opposite side of the
road, was built about the year 1845, on the site of
an old Elizabethan mansion called Claybrooke
House, from a wealthy family of that name who
owned the property in the seventeenth century.
One of the family was buried in Fulham Church in

* See ciUe, p. 503.

t Sec Vol. HI., p. 3S3.

5i6

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Fulham.

1587. Claybrooke House was in the occupation
of the Frewens at the commencement of the last
century, and afterwards became the property of the
above-mentioned Robert Limpany. For many
years prior to its demoHtion it was used as a
seminary for young ladies.

In Elysium Road, near the High Street, is a
large and handsome ecclesiastical-looking edifice,
in the Gothic style. This is an Orphanage Home,

1 side, stands Munster House, which is supposed to
owe its name to Melesina Schulenberg, who was
created by George L, in 17 16, Duchess of Munster.

; According to Faulkner, it was at one time called
Mustow House ; but as Mr. Croker suggests, in his
"Walk from London to Fulham," " this was not im-
probably the duchess's pronunciation." Faulkner
adds that tradition makes this house a hunting-seat
of Charles IL, and asserts that an extensive park

rkiuK'i , I i i.iiA.M.

under the patronage of the Bishop of London,
fountled a few years ago by Mrs. Tait, the wife of
Bishop (since Archbishop) Tait.

In Burlington Road, formerly known as Back
Lane, the thoroughfare running parallel with the
High Street on its eastern side, and extending
from the corner of Fulham Road to King's Road,
Fulham Almshouses originally stood ; they were
founded, as already stated, by Sir William Powell,
in 1680, but rebuilt near the parish cluirch in 1869.
Burlington House, whence the road derives its
name, was for upwards of a century a well-known
academy kept at one time by a Mr. Roy. On the
grounds attached to the house is now a Reformatory
ScJiool for I'cmales ; it was built about 1856.
, Farther along the Fuliiani Road, on llie north

was attached to it ; but there seems to be no
foundation for the statement. In the seventeenth
century the properly seems to have belonged to
the Powells, from whom it passed into the posses-
sion of Sir John Williams, Bart., of Pengethly.
Monmouthshire. In 1795, Lysons tells us, the
house was occupied as a school ; and in 1 8 1 3
Faulkner informs us that it was the residence of
M. Sampayo, a Portuguese merchant. It was
afterwards for many years tenanted by Mr. John
Wilson Croker, M.P., Secretary of the Admiralty,
and who.se name is well known as the editor of
" Boswell's Johnson." About 1820 Mr. Croker
resigned Munster House as a residence, " after
having externally decorated it with various Cockney
eiiiballleuKiUs of brick, and collected tli^ie many

Fulham.J

PERCY CROSS.

517

curious works of art, possibly with a view of recon-
struction." On the gate-piers were formerly two
grotesque-looking composition lions, which had the
popular effect, for some time, of changing the name
to Monster House.

On the opposite side of the road is an extensive
garden for the supply of the London market, by
the side of which runs Munster Road, whence a
turning about half-way down leads on to Parson's

tentious, had pleasant grounds, in which his Lord-
ship gave garden parties. The Queen and Prince
Albert honoured the late Lord Ravensworth with
a visit here in June, 1840. The house has lately
been pulled down. The grounds owed their
charm to a former occupier, Mr. John Ord, a
Master in Chancery, who about the middle of the
last century planted them with such skill and
taste that, though not extensive, they held a fore-

ricu.\rdson's house XT parson's green (1799).

Green. Fulham Lodge, which stood on the south
side of the main road, close by Munster Terrace,
was a favourite retreat of the Duke of York, and
for some time the home of George Colman the
Younger. Fulham Park Road covers the spot
whereon the lodge stood.

Continuing along the Fulham Road about a
quarter of a mile, we reach Percy Cross, or rather,
as it was formerly called, Purser's Cross. Here
Lord Ravensworth had, till lately, a suburban resi-
dence, in the garden of which was a fine specimen of
an old " stone pine," reminding us of Virgil's line —

"Pulcheriima pinus in hortis."

The mansion was concealed from the road by a
high brick wall, and although small and unpre-
284

most rank among the private gardens in the neigh-
bourhood of London.

" Purser's Cross " is mentioned as a point " on the
Fulham Road, between Parson's Green and 'W'alham
Green," so far back as 1602 ; and the place has
never been in any way connected with the " proud
house of Percy." In the " Beauties ot England
and Wales," Purser's Cross is said to be a cor-
ruption of Parson's Cross, and the vicinity of
Parson's Green is mentioned in support of this
conjecture. However, that " Purser," and not
" Percy" Cross, has been for many years the usual
mode of writing the name of this locality, is esta-
blished by an entry in the " Annual Register " in
1781. At Percy Cross was at one time the resi-
dence of Signer Mario and Madame Grisi,

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tFulham.

On the opposite side of the road to Lord Ravens-
worth's house is Walham Lodge, formerly called
Park Cottage, a modern, well-built house, standing
mthin extensive grounds, surrounded by a brick
wall. Here for some years lived Mr. Brande, the
eminent chemist, whose lectures on geology, de-
livered at the Royal Institution in 1816, acquired
great popularity.

A house, now divided into two, and called Dun-
gannon House and Albany Lodge, abuts upon the
western boundary of Walham Lodge. Tradition
asserts that this united cottage and villa were,
previous to their separation, known by the name
of Bolingbroke Lodge, and as such became the
frequent resort of Pope, Gay, Swift, and others of
that fraternity ; but it would seem as if tradition
had mixed up this house with Bolingbroke House,
Battersea, which we have lately described.*

A few yards from Dungannon House, on the
same side of the road, opposite to Parson's Green
Lane, stands Arundel House, an old mansion,
supposed to date from the Tudor period. It ap-
pears to have been newly fronted towards the close
of the last century ; and in 18 19 the house was in
the occupation of the late Mr. Hallam, the historian
of tlie Middle Ages.

On the opposite side of the road is the carriage
entrance to Park House, which stands in Parson's
Green Lane. A stone tablet let into one of the
piers of the gateway is inscribed, " Purser's Cross,
7th August, 1738." This date has reference to the
death of a highwayman which occurred here, and
of which the London Magazine gives the following
particulars : — " An highwayman having committed
several robberies on Finchley Common, was pur-
sued to London, where he thought himself safe,
but wa.s, in a little time, discovered at a public-
house in Burlington Gardens, refreshing himself
and his horse ; however, he had time to re-mount,
and rode through Hyde Park, in which there were
several gentlemen's servants airing their horses,
who, taking the alarm, pursued him closely as far
as Fulham Fields, where, finding no probability of
escaping, he threw money among some country
people who were at work in the field, and told
them they would soon see the end of an unfortunate
man. He had no sooner spoke these words but he
pulled out a pistol, clapped it to his ear, and shot
himself directly, before his pursuers could prevent
him. The coroner's inquest brought in their
verdict, and he was buried in a cross-road, with a
stake through him ; but it was not known who he
was."

Park House, in Parson's Green Lane, is said to

* See anlti p. 470.

be a fac-simile of an older mansion, called Quibus
Hall, which occupied the same site. The old hall
at one time belonged to the Whartons. Lysons,
on the authority of the parish books, states that a
Sir Michael Wharton was living here in 1654.
When the house was rebuilt, it was for a time
called High Elms House. A small house opposite,
Audley Cottage, was for many years the residence
of the late Mr. Thomas Crofton Croker, F.S.A.,
who wrote a minute description of the place, which
is reprinted in the " Walk from London to Fulham,"
to which we are indebted for some of the par-
ticulars here given. The name of the place, which
was at one time Brunswick Cottage, was altered by
Mr. Croker to Rosamond's Bower, the property
hereabouts having at some distant date formed part
of a manorial estate called Rosamonds, which in the
fifteenth century belonged to Sir Henry Wharton.
Lysons, in his "Environs of London," states that
" the site of the mansion belonging to this estate,
now (1795) rented by a gardener, is said, by tradi-
tion, to have been a palace of Fair Rosamond."
This house was taken down about the year 1825, and
the stables of Park House were built on the site.
With reference to the present building, an ordinary
two-storeyed dwelling-house, Mn Croker wrote : —
"When I took my cottage, in 1837, and was told
that the oak staircase in it had belonged to the
veritable ' Rosamond's Bower,' and was the only
relic of it that existed, and when I found that the
name had no longer a precise ' local habitation ' in
Fulham, I ventured, purely from motives of respect
for the memory of the past, and not from any
affectation of romance, to revive an ancient paro-
chial name, which had been suffered to die out
' like the snuff of a candle.' In changing its precise
situation, in transferring it from one side of Parson's
Green Lane to the other — a distance, however, not
fifty yards from the original site — I trust when
called upon to show cause for the transfer to be
reasonably sujjported by the history of the old
oak staircase."

Parson's Green is a triangular plot of ground at
the southern end of the lane, at its junction witli
King's Road ; and it was so called from the i)ar-
sonage-house of the parish of Fulham, which stood
on its west side, but was pulled down about the
year 1 740. The Green, on which successive rectors
and their fiimilies disported themselves, is for the
most part surrounded by small cottages. There
used to be held on the Green annually on the 17th
of August, a fair, which had, as Faulkner tells us,
"been established from time immemorial."

".'\n ancient house at the corner of the Green,"
writes Lamljcrt, in his " History and Survey of

Fulham.]

PARSON'S GREEN.

S19

London and its Environs," in 1805, "formerly
belonged to Sir Edmund Saunders, Lord Chief-
Justice of the Court of King's Bench in 1682, who
raised himself to the bench from being an errand-
boy in an attorney's office, where he taught himself
the mysteries of the law by copying papers in the
absence of the regular clerks. This house," he
adds, "was the residence of Samuel Richardson,
the author of ' Sir Charles Grandison,' ' Pamela,'
&c." We have already spoken of Richardson in
our accounts of Fleet Street and of Hampstead,*
and we shall have still more to say about him
when we reach North End, on our way to Ham-
mersmith.

In Dodsley's " Collection of Poems " are the fol-
lowing verses on an alcove at Parson's Green, by
Mrs. Bennet, sister of Mr. Edward Bridges, who
married Richardson's sister : —

" O favourite Muse of Shenstone, hear !
And leave awhile his blissful groves ;
Aid me this alcove to sing,

The author's seat whom Shenstone loves.

" Here the soul-harrowing genius form'd
His ' Pamela's ' enchanting story,
And here — yes, here — 'Clarissa' died

A martyr to her sex's glory."
» * * # *

" O sacred seat ! be thou revered

By such as own tliy master's power ;
And, like his works, for ages last,

Till fame and language are no more."

Seeing, however, that " Clarissa Harlowe " and " Sir
Charles Grandison " were both written between
1747 and 1754, and that Richardson did not take
up his abode here till 1755, it is North End, and
not Parson's Green, that may lay claim to being
the scene of their production. Edwards, the author
of " Canons of Criticism," died at Parson's Green
in 1757, whilst on a visit to Richardson.

A century or two ago Parson's Green was noted
for its aristocratic residents. East End House, on
the east side, was built at the end of the seven-
teenth century for Sir Francis Child, who was
Lord Mayor of London in 1699. The house was
inhabited by Admiral Sir Charles Wager, and by
Dr. Ekins, Dean of Carlisle, who died there in
1 791. Mrs. Fitzherbert was at one time a resi-
dent here ; and, according to Mr. Croker, she
erected the porch in front of the house as a shelter
for carriages. Here, naturally enough, the Prince
of Wales (afterwards George IV.) was a frequent
visitor. Madame Piccolomini, too, lived for some
time on the east side of the Green.

» See Vol. I., p. 146 ; and Vol. V., p. 461.

Another distinguished resident at Parson's Green
in former times was Sir Thomas Bodley, the founder
of the Bodleian Library at Oxford. Rowland
White, Lord Strafford's entertaining and communi-
cative correspondent, was his contemporary there.
" When the great Lord Chancellor Bacon fell into
disgrace, and was restrained from coming within
the verge of the Court, he procured a licence
(dated September 13, 162 1) to retire for six weeks
to the house of his friend, Lord Chief-Justice
Vaughan, at Parson's Green." So wrote Lysons
in 1795 ; but Faulkner says, "This could not be
the Sir John Vaughan who was Lord Chief-Justice
in 1668. We know of no other who was Lord
Chief-Justice. In the parish books," he adds,
" the person to whose house Lord Bacon retired
is called 'The Lord Vaughan,' who probably
resided in the house now (1813) occupied by Mr.
Maxwell, as a boarding-school, and called Albion
House, a spacious mansion, built in that style of
architecture which prevailed at the commencement
of the reign of James I."

Close by Parson's Green is another open space,
called Eelbrook Common, which " from time imme-
morial " has been used as a place of recreation for
the dwellers in the neighbourhood. In 1878 the
Ecclesiastical Commissioners, as lords of the manor,
having disposed of some portion of this plot of
ground for building purposes, thus infringing on
the rights of the public, the subject was brought
before Parliament, and further encroachments were
abandoned.

On the south-west side of the Green, near Eel-
brook Common, is Peterborough House, formerly
the residence of the Mordaunts, Earls of Peter-
borough, whom we have already mentioned in our
account of Fulham Church.

The present building, a modern structure, dating
from the end of the last century, has replaced an
older mansion, which is described by Bowack as
" a very large, square, regular pile of brick, with
a gallery all round it upon the top of the roof. It
had," he continues, " abundance of extraordinary
good rooms, with fine paintings." The gardens
and grounds covered about twenty acres, and were
beautifully laid out, after the fashion of the period.
Swift, in one of his letters, speaks of Lord Peter-
borough's gardens as being the finest he had ever
seen about London. The ancient building was
known as Brightwells, or Rightwells, and was the
residence of John Tarnworth, one of Queen EUza-
beth's Privy Councillors, who died here in 1569.
The place afterwards belonged to Sir Thomas
Knolles, who sold it to Sir Thomas Smith, Master
of the Court of Requests. He died here in 1609,

520

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Fulham.

and his widow soon afterwards married the first '
Earl of Exeter, whilst Sir Thomas's only daughter
married the Honourable Thomas Carey, the Earl
of Monmouth's second son, who, in right of his
wife, became possessor of the estate. After him,
the place was named Villa Carey. In 1660, Villa
Carey was occupied by Lord Mordaunt, who had
married the daughter and heiress of Mr. Carey.
This Lord Mordaunt took a prominent part in

as a military character prior to the Revolution, and
also in the reigns of William and Mary and Queen
Anne. He succeeded to the earldom of Peter-
borough on the death of his uncle in 1697. He
was twice married : his second wife was the ac-
complished singer, Anastasia Robinson, who sur-
vived him. The earl was visited at Peterborough
House by all the wits and literati of his time,
including Pope, Swift, Locke, and many others.

rLlLRliiJKOUGU HOUSE.

bringing about the restoration of Charles IL, after
which event he seems to have quietly settled
down on his estate at Parson's Green, where he
died in 1675. John Evelyn, in his "Diary," under
date of November 29, 1661, thus makes mention
of a visit to Lord Mordaunt : — " I dined at the
Countess of Peterborow's, and went that evening
to Parson Greene's house with my Lord Mordaunt,
with whom I staid that night." By " Parson
Greene's house," Evelyn no doubt meant Parson's
Green House. Later on, December 2nd, 1675,
]'>velyn makes tlie following (more correct) entry
in his " Diary :"— " I visited Lady Mordaunt at
Parson's Green, her son being sick."

I^ord Mordaunt's son, Cliarles, subsequently
known as Earl of Monmouth, distinguished himself

Faulkner, in his " History of Fulham," says that
Miss Robinson " continued to sing in the Opera
till the year 1723, when she retired, in consequence,
as it is supposed, of her marriage with the Earl of
Peterborough, for she at that time went to reside
at a house in Parson's Green, which the earl took
for herself and her mother." Sir John Hawkins,
in his " History of Music," says she resided at
Peterborough House, and presided at the earl's
table, but she never lived under the same roof with
him till slie was prevailed on to attend him in a
journey, which he took a few years before his death
on account of his declining health. During her
residence at Fulliam she was visited by persons of
the higliest rank, under a full persuasion, founded
on the general tenor of his life and conduct, that

Fulham.]

PETERBOROUGH HOUSF:.

S2I

she had a legal right to a rank which, for prudential
reasons, she was content to decline. She held
frequent musical parties, at which Bononcini, Mar-
tini, Tosi, Greene, and the most eminent musicians
of that time assisted ; and they were attended by
all the fashionable world. It was some years
before the earl could prevail upon himself to
acknowledge her as his countess ; nor did he, till
1735, publicly own what most people knew before;
he then proclaimed his marriage like no other
husband. He went one evening to the public rooms
at Bath, where a servant was ordered distinctly
and audibly to announce " Lady Peterborough's
carriage waits ! " Every lady of rank immediately
rose and congratulated the declared countess.

After Lord Peterborough's death, the house was
sold to a Mr. Heaviside, from whom it was sub-
sequei.dy purchased by Mr. John Meyrick, father
of Sir Samuel Meyrick, the well-known antiquary
and writer on armour. He pulled the old mansion
down, and built the present house on the site.

It is recorded in Faulkner's " History of Ken-
sington," that in a vineyard at Parson's Green some
Burgundy grapes were ripe in October, 1765, and
that the owner of the vineyard was about to make
wine from them, as he did yearly.

King's Road, which skirts the southern side of
the Green, leads direct eastward on to Chelsea, and
passing westward unites with Church Street, at the
end of Burlington Road. At a short distance from
the Green, in the King's Road, stands Ivy Cottage,
which was built at the end of the last century by
Walsh Porter, and is in a debased Gothic style
of architecture. Faulkner states that " there is a
tradition that on the site of this bijou of a cottage
was formerly a house, the residence of Oliver Crom-
well, which was called the Old Red Ivy House.
The house was for some time the residence of the
late Mr. E. T. Smith, the well-known theatrical

manager, who gave it the name of Drury Lodge,
after the theatre of which he was then the lessee.
The house, several years ago, resumed its old name
of Ivy Cottage. Here, in 1878, died the Rev.
R. G. Baker, who was many years Vicar of Fulham,
and well known as an antiquary.

In Church Street (formerly Windsor Street,
according to Faulkner) stand the Fulham Charity
Schools, which were erected in 181 1. Close by is a
pottery, which has existed here for upwards of two
centuries. It was established by John Dwight,
who, after numerous experiments, took out a patent,
dated 23rd of April, 167 1, which was renewed
in 16S4, for the making of " earthenwares, known
by the name of white goyes (pitchers), marbled
porcelain vessels, statues and figures, and fine
stone gorges never before made in England or
elsewhere." Another branch of industry at one
time carried on at Fulham was the manufacture of
Gobelin tapestry ; but the articles produced
were too costly to command a large sale. Mr.
Smiles, in his " Huguenots," writes : " A French
refugee named Passavant purchased the tapestry
manufactory at Fulham, originally established by
the Walloons, which had greatly fallen into decay.
His first attempts at reviving the manufacture,
however, were not successful, and so the industry
was removed to Exeter."

Before leaving the village of Fulham, and making
our way to Walham Green and North End^ we
may remark that this neighbourhood — if it has
not always been remarkable for the healthiness or
longevity of its inhabitants — can boast of having
produced at least one centenarian. In the Mirror
for 1833, we find this record: "Mr. Rench, of
Fulham, who planted the elms in Birdcage Walk
from saplings reared in his own nursery, died in
1 7 S3, aged loi, in the same room in which he had
been born."

CHAPTER XXXVIIL
FULHAM {continued).— \V KLWKVl GREEN AND NORTH END.

Vine Cottage — The Pryor's Bank— The " Swan " Tavern— Stourton House— Ranelagh House— Hurlingham — Broom House— Sandy End — Sandford
Manor House, the Residence of Nell Gwynne, and of Joseph Addison — St. James's, Moore Park— Walham Green — St. John's Church —
The Butchers' Almshouses — A Poetic Gardener— North End — Browne's House — North End Lodge— Jacob Tonson — North End Road-
Beaufort House — Lillie Bridge Running-ground — The Residence of Foote, the Dramatist — The Hermitage — The Residence of Bartolozzi—
Normand House — Wentworth Cottage — Fulham Fields — Walnut-tree Cottage — St. Saviour's Convalescent Hospital — The Residence of
Dr. Crotch — Samuel Richardson's House— Other Noted Residents at Fulham.

Having arrived at the end of the High Street, the church, and thence shape our course along the
whence, at the commencement of the preceding river-side to the eastern boundary of the parish,
chapter, we started on our tour towards the church The first building to attract our attention is a
and palace, we will now pass to the south side of ■ stucco-fronted house, of Gothic design, standing

S2S

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

' [Kulham.

between the church and the river. It occupies the
site of a former house, called Vine Cottage, from a
luxurious vine which covered the exterior. The
humble situation of the old edifice having attracted
the fancy of Mr. Walsh Porter, he purchased it,
raised the building by an additional storey, and
otherwise considerably altered its appearance. The
entrance-hall, constructed to look like huge pro-
jecting rocks, was called the robbers' cave ; one of

Pictures of ancient worthies, wainscoting and rich
tapestries, adorned the walls ; painted glass, rich in
heraldic devices, filled the windows ; and the new
name of the " Pryor's Bank " was given to the
place.

An ample account of all the treasures which the
house and gardens contained, together with details
of the masques and revels which took place here,
are given in INIr. Croker's book from which we

NELL GWYNNE S HOUSE.

the bed-rooms was named the lions' den ; whilst
the dining-room is stated to have represented, on a
small scale, the ruins of Tintern Abbey. Here
Mr. Porter had the honour of receiving and enter-
taining, on several occasions, the Prince of Wales,
afterwards George IV. Vine Cottage was at length
disposed of by Mr. Porter, and became, in 1813,
the residence of Lady Hawarden. It was sub-
sequently occupied by Mr. William Holmes, M.P.
(" Billy Holmes "), and by others. But at length
the cottage was pulled down, and tlie house now
standing was erected on its site. The new owners
filled the rooms with all sorts of antiquarian objects,
from an ancient gridiron to Nell Gwynne's mirror
in its curious frame of needlework ; indeed, the
place became like a second " Strawberry Hill."

have already quoted, and from which we extract
the following : — " Though within the walls of the
Pryor's Bank, or any other human habitation, all
that is rich in art may be assembled, yet, without
the wish to turn these objects to a beneficial
purpose, they become only a load of care ; but
when used to exalt and refine the national taste,
they confer an immortality upon the possessor, and
render him a benefactor to his species ; when used,
also, as accessories to the cultivation of kindly
sympathies and the promotion of social enjoyment,
they are objects of public utility." The revival of
old English cordiality, especially at Christmas, had
been always a favourite idea with the owners of
the Pryor's Bank, and in 1839 they gave a grand
entertainment, which included a " masijue," written

IN AND ABOUT FULHAM.
J. Fulham House and Ranelagh Lodge. a. Old "Swan" Tavern, 1820. 3. PT°r'= Bank. 4. Old Pottery.

524

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

rFulham.

for the occasion, in which the principal character,
"Great Frost," was enacted by Theodore Hook.
The words of the piece were printed and sold in
the rooms, for the benefit of the Royal Literary
Fund, and resulted in the addition of ^3 1 2s. 6d.
to the coffers of that most admirable institution.

The record of this memorable evening in Theo-
dore Hook's " Notes " has a Pepysian twang about
it: — "30 December, 1839. To-day, not to town;
up and to Baylis's ; saw preparations. So, back ;
wTOte a little, then to dinner, afterwards to dress ;
so to Pryor's Bank, there much people — Sir George
and Lady Whitmore, Mrs. Stopford, Mrs. Nugent,
the Bulls, and various others, to the amount of 150.
I acted the ' Great Frost ' with considerable effect.
Jerdan, Planche, Nichols, Holmes and wife, Lane,
Crofton Croker, Giffard, Barrow. The Whitmore
family sang beautifully ; all went off well."

The charms of the Pryor's Bank have been sung
in verse, in the " Last New Ballad on the Fulham
Regatta " — a jeu-d' esprit circulated at an entertain-
ment given here in 1843 — of which the following
lines (some of them not very excellent as rhymes)
will serve as a specimen : —

" Strawberry Hill has pass'd away,
Every house must have its day ;
So in antiquarian rank
Up sprung here the Pryor's Bank,
Full of glorious tapestry.
Full as well as house can be ;
And of carvings old and quaint,
Relics of some mitr'd saint,
'Tis — I hate to be perfidious —
'Tis a house most sacrilegious."

Like those of its prototype. Strawberry Hill, the
contents of the Pryor's Bank have long since been
dispersed under the hammer of the auctioneer. The
first sale took place in 1S41, and lasted six days;
the remainder was sold off in 1854.

Between the Pryor's Bank and the approach to
the bridge stood till 1871, when it was destroyed
by fire, a picturesque old waterside tavern, the
"Swan." It had a garden attached, looking on to
the river. The house is supposed to have been
built in the reign of William HL, and it is said to
have been scarcely altered in any of its features
since Chatelaine publislied his views of " The most
Agreeable Prospects near London," about 1740.
In the elaborate ironwork which supported the
sign was wrought the date 169S. Tlie house, with
its tea-gardens, was the favourite resort of boating
people, and mention is made of it in Captain
Marryat's "Jacob Faithful." Amongst a few old
coins, found in clearing away the ruins after the
fire above mentioned, was a shilling of the time of
William III., dated 1696.

Passing to the east side of Bridge Street we find
several old houses, which have the appearance of
having once " seen better days ; " whilst of others
a recollection alone remains in the names given
to the locality where they once stood. Stourton
House, afterwards called Fulham House, close by
the foot of the bridge, is said to have been a
residence of the Lords Stourton three centuries
ago. Next is Ranelagh House, the grounds of
which are prettily laid out, and extend from
Hurlingham Lane down to the river-side. This
house, in the last century, belonged to Sir Philip
Stephens, one of the Lords of the Admiralty, whose
only daughter was the wife of Lord Ranelagh, to
whom the property was bequeathed. The next
mansion eastward is Mulgrave House, formerly the
seat of the Earl of Mulgrave, and afterwards of
Colonel Torrens and Lord Ranelagh. The Earl
of Egremont, the Countess of Lonsdale, and other
distinguished jiersons, formerly had residences here-
abouts, but these have been for the most part swept
away, or converted to other uses.

Hurlingham House, the grounds of which on the
south side are bounded by the river, is altogether
unnoticed by Faulkner in his " History of Fulham,"
although Hurlingham Field is frequently mentioned
in old documents ; and it has been considered as
most probable that the name arose from the field
having been used for the ancient sport of hurling.
The spot gained an unenviable notoriety at one
time as the site of a pest-house and burial-pit, in
the time of the Great Plague of London. The
pest-house was pulled down in 16S1, and the mate-
rials were sold. Hurlingham was for many years
the residence of Mr. J. Horseley Palmer, Governor
of the Bank of England ; it is now best known by
its grounds, which are much patronised by the
lovers of pigeon-shooting and other aristocratic
pastimes of a similar character.

Broom House was for some time tlie residence
of Sir John Shellej', of Maresfield Park, Susse.x,
who died here in 1852, and afterwards of the Right
Hon. L. Sulivan, the brother-in-law of Lord Pal-
merston. The name of tlie property appears
to be of some antiquity. Bowack mentions, in
his time, the commencement of the last century,
a collection of cottages by the river-side, called
Broom Houses, and says, "The name rose from the
(juantity of broom that used to grow tliere." East-
ward of Rroomhouse Lane, as far as Sandy End
Lane, on the eastern side of the parish, the land
bordering tlie Tliames is occupied chiefly as market
gardens.

At Sandy End, near a little brook which once
divided Chelsea from Ftilham, not far from the

Walham Green.]

SANDFORD MANOR HOUSE.

525

"World's End,"* was Sandford Manor House, once
the residence of Nell Gwynne, of which a sketch
may be seen in Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall's " Pil-
grimages to English Shrines." It now forms part
of the buildings included in the premises of the
Imperial Gas Company. Its gables have been
removed, and the exterior modernised ; but there
still remains the old staircase, up and down wjiich
fair Mistress Nell Gwynne's feet must often have
paced.

We catch another glimpse of Joseph Addison in
this once remote neighbourhood. Faulkner, in his
" History of Fulham," published in 181 1, describes,
at the eastern extremity of the parish, situated on
a small creek running to, or rather up from, the
Thames, a building known as Sandford Manor
House, formerly of some note as having been at
one time the residence of the notorious " Nell
Gwynne." " The mansion," he then writes, " is of
venerable appearance : immediately in front of it
are four walnut-trees, aftbrding an agreeable shade,
that are said to have been planted by royal hands ;
the fruit of them is esteemed of a peculiarly fine
quality." But this was probably a little bit of that
imagination which soon turns royal "geese" into
" swans."

Two letters of Joseph Addison, written from
Sandford Manor House in 1708, are interesting
memorials of the state of this neighbourhood in
the reign of Queen Anne, and also of the intense
relish for rural scenes and pleasures which marked
a man who was the author of many of the best
papers in the Spectator, and also an Under-Secre-
tary of State. They are addressed to the young
Lord Warwick, to whom he afterwards became
stepfather. In the first he gives a particular ac-
count of a curious bird's-nest found near the
house, about which his neighbours were divided in
opinion, some taking it for a skylark's, some for
that of a canary, whilst he himself judged its in-
mates to be tomtits. In tlie second letter he
Nvrites : " I can't forbear being troublesome to your
lordship while I am in your neighbourhood. The
business of this, to invite you to a concert of music
which I have found in a tree in a neighbouring
wood. It begins precisely at six in the evening,
and consists of a blackbird, a thrush, a robin-
redbreast, and a bullfinch. There is a lark that,
by way of overture, sings and mounts till she is
almost out of hearing, and afterwards falls down
leisurely and drops to the ground, as soon as she
has ended her song. The whole is concluded by
a nightingale that has a much better voice than

« See Vol. v., p. 87.

Mrs. Tofts, and something of Italian manners in
its diversions. If your lordship will honour me
with your company, I will promise to entertain
you with much better music and more agreeable
scenes than you ever met with at the opera, and
will conclude with a charming description of a
nightingale, out of our friend Virgil : —

" ' So close in poplar shades, her children gone,
The mother nightingale laments alone,
Whose nest some prying churl had found, and thence
By stealth conveyed the unfeathered innocents ;
But she supplies the night with mournful strains,
And melancholy music fills the plains.' "

This letter places before us a picture of the
elegant essayist on a bright May evening, with
upturned ear, beneath some lofty elm or oak,
charmed with the beautiful oratorio of the birds in
the woods about Fulham — an oratorio now, it is to
be feared, no longer heard.

The south-eastern side of the parish, between
Fulham Road and the river, including the works of
the Imperial Gas Company, was formed, in 1868,
into a new ecclesiastical district, called St. James's,
Moore Park. The church, a large cruciform struc-
ture of Early-English architecture, was built from
the designs of Mr. Darbishire.

Walham Green is — or, rather, was — a triangular
plot of greensward on the north side of the Fulham
Road, upon which, in former times, donkeys had
been wont to graze, and the village children to
play at cricket.

The derivation of the name of Walliam Green
is somewhat obscure and doubtful. Lysons and
Faulkner say it is properly Wendon, the manor of
Wendon being mentioned in a deed of conveyance,
in 1449 ; but it is also called, in various old docu-
ments, by the name of Wandon, Wansdon, Wans-
down, and Wandham. It seems to have been first
called by its present name about the end of the
seventeenth century. The green, as such, has long
since disappeared, and some national schools now
occupy its site. In 1828 St. John's Church was
erected, as a chapel of ease to Fulham. The edifice
covers the spot which was formerly the " village
pond," but which was filled up when the spread
of building in this direction rendered such a pro-
ceeding necessary. The church is a brick building,
of common-place Gothic design, with a tall tower,
adorned with pinnacles.

There were at one time a few noteworthy old
houses at Walham Green, but of these scarcely a
vestige now remains ; and within the last half-
century the place may be said to have assumed
altogether a new aspect, more especially since the
erection of the Butchers' Almshouses, the first

526

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

(North End.

Stone of which was laid by Lord Ravensworth. in
1840. Since that time, as Mr. Croker informs
us, "fancy fairs and bazaars, with horticultural
exhibitions, have been fashionably patronised at
Walham Green by omnibus companies, for the
support and enlargement of this institution." The
almshouses are a neat cluster of buildings, occu-
pying three sides of a square, opening upon Farm
Place, close beside St. John's Church.

In the London Magazine for June, 1749, Mr.
Bartholomew Roque thus apostrophises, in rhyme,
if not in poetry, this once rural spot : —

" Hail, happy isle ! and happier Walham Green !
Where all that's fair and beautiful are seen !
Where wanton zephyrs court the ambient air,
And sweets ambrosial banish every care ;
\\Tiere thought nor trouble social joy molest,
Nor vain solicitude can banish rest,
Peaceful and happy here I reign serene,
Perplexity defy, and smile at spleen.
Belles, beaux, and statesmen all around me shine —
All own me their supreme, me constitute divine ;
All wait my pleasure, own my awful nod.
And change the humble gard'ner to the god."

Mr. B. Roque, it need scarcely be added, was a
well-known florist in his day; and the "belles,
beaux, and statesmen" by whom he speaks of
being surrounded were nothing more nor less than
new varieties of flowers dignified by distinguished
names. He was brother of Mr. Roque, the sur-
veyor, to whose " Map of London and its En-
virons, in 1748," we have several times had occa-
sion to refer in the progress of this work.

The "Swan" Brewery and Tavern at Walham
Green have been established upwards of a century.

North End, a hamlet of Fulham, lying between
Walham Green and Hammersmith Road, is de-
scribed in the "Ambulator" (1774) as "a pleasant
village near Hammersmith, where are the hand-
some house and finely-disposed gardens lately
possessed by the Earl of Tilney, and of the late
Sir John Stanley." Mrs. Delaney, in one of her
letters to Dr. Swift, in 1736, writes : " My employ-
ment this summer has been making a grotto at
North End for my grandfather. Sir John Stanley."
The mansion, called Browne's House, was at the
commencement of the last century the seat of
Lord Griffin, but in 17 18 became the property of
Sir J. Stanley. It was afterwards owned by Francis
Earl Brooke, who sold it to the Duke of Devon-
shire, by whom it was sold, in 1761, to Sir Gilbert
Heathcote. It was pulled down about the year
1800, and its site turned into a brickfield.

At North End Lodge, close by Walham Green,
lived for some time Mr. Albert Smith, the popular
lecturer and writer, and here he died in 1S60.

Jacob Tonson, the celebrated bookseller, of
whom we have already spoken in our account of
the Strand,* had a house at North End for many
years, before removing to Barn Elms, just above
Putney; and Mrs. Nisbet (afterwards Lady Boothby)
was likewise at one time a resident here.

North End Road, by which we now proceed on
our way to Hammersmith, is almost one continuous
line of ordinary cottages and middle-class shops,
which are rapidly extending in every direction
over Fulham Fields. In Faulkner's time, at the
commencement of this century, it was a country
road, winding between market gardens, but con-
tained a few good houses, which had been " succes-
sively occupied by several eminent and remarkable
characters." These, however, have now for the
most part disappeared.

On the east side of the road, at a short distance
from Walham Green, stands Beaufort House, now
used as the head-quarters of the South Middlesex
Volunteer Corps, and the meeting-place for the
sports and races of the London Athletic Club ; and
between this and West London and Westminster
Cemetery, from which it is separated by the West
London Junction Railway, is Lillie Bridge Running-
ground, a place familiar to the lovers of cricket,
pedestrian matches, bicycle races, &c.

Foote, the dramatist and comedian, resided for
many years at North End, where he had a favourite
villa. The place, when he took it, was advertised
to be completely furnished, but he had not been
there long before the cook complained that there
was not a roUing-pin. " No ! " said he ; " then
bring me a saw, I will soon make one;" which he
accordingly did, of one of the mahogany bed-posts.
The next day it was discovered that a coal-scuttle
was wanted, when he supplied this deficiency with
a drawer from a curious japan chest. A carpet
being wanted in the parlour, he ordered a new
white cotton counterpane to be laid, to save the
boards. His landlord paying him a visit, to
inquire how he liked his new residence, was greatly
astonished to find such disorder, as he considered
it. He remonstrated with Foote, and complained
of the injury his furniture had sustained ; but Foote
insisted upon it all the complaint was on his side,
considering the trouble he had been at to supply
these necessaries, notwithstanding he had advertised
his house completely furnished. Tlie landlord now
threatened the law, upon which Foote threatened to
take him oft", saying an auctioneer was a fruitful
character. This last consideration weighed with
the landlord, and he quietly put up with his loss.

• Sec Vol. III., p. 79.

North End.]

NORMAND HOUSE.

527

The house, upon the improvement of which Foote
spent large sums of money, was for many years
called the Hermitage, and its site is now occupied
by Lovibond's Cannon Brewery, at the corner of
Lillie Road and North End Road. At the opposite
angle of the road stood till recently an old dwelling-
house called Cambridge Lodge, which was once
the abode of Francesco Bartolozzi, the celebrated
Florentine artist, who came to reside here in 1777.
He was the father of Madame Vestris, the well-
known comedian, singer, and theatrical manageress.

Close by, in Lillie Road, is Mount Carmel Her-
mitage, an institution for Roman Catholic ladies
which was rebuilt in 1878. Its chapel, of Gothic
architecture, is a conspicuous feature.

A little to the west of North End Road stands
Norman House, a large, rambling, old-fashioned
brick building, profusely ovtrgrown with ivy. Over
the principal gateway was the date, 1664, and the
building is said to have been used as a hospital
during the Great Plague in the following year. In
1 8 13, according to Faulkner, the local historian^
"it was appropriated for the reception of insane
ladies." Mr. Croker, in his "Walk from London
to Fulham," says that Sir E. Lytton Bulwer at one
time resided here. The house, in 1884, was con-
verted into an orphanage for Roman Catholic boys.

Wentworth Cottage, hard by, was once occupied
by Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall. In the garden in
front of the house grows a willow planted by them
from a slip of that which overshadowed the grave
of Napoleon at St. Helena.

The open ground hereabouts, known as Fulham
Fields, but which is being rapidly encroached upon
by the hands of the builder, was formerly called
"No Man's Land." Faulkner says that it con-
tained in his time (18 13) "about six houses."
One of these was "an ancient house, once the
residence of the family of Plumbe," the site of
which is now covered by a cluster of dwellings
which were erected for the labourers in the sur-
rounding market gardens, that reach from Walhani
Green nearly to the Thames, the North End Road
forming the eastern boundary of Fulham Fields.

Retracing our steps to North End Road, we will
resume our walk northwards. Immediately beyond
Bartolozzi's house, enclosed by an old wall sup-
posed to date from the time of Charles II., stood
a tall house, once the residence of Cheeseman, the
engraver, a pupil of Bartolozzi. Farther on, on
the opposite side of the way, also stood till 1846,
when it was pulled down, ^Valnut-tree Cottage,
which was at one time the residence of Edmund
Kean, the actor, and also of Copley, the artist, the
father of Lord Lyndhurst. Cipriani, the painter,

once had a house close by this spot, but it has
long since shared the fate of its more aristocratic
neighbours, and been removed, to give place to
modern bricks and mortar.

A large stucco-fronted house on the right, close
by the railway station, was built many years ago by
Mr. Slater, as a family residence, but has since
been converted to other purposes. About the year
1875 the mansion was taken by the benevolent
Society of St. John of Jerusalem, by whom it was
fitted up, with the intention of using it as a con-
valescent hospital ; but circumstances arose which
caused the idea to be abandoned. The house
was, however, subsequently secured by a religious
sisterhood, by whom it has been used for the
above-mentioned purpose, and is known as St.
Saviour's Convalescent Hospital.

The house once inhabited by Dr. Crotch, the
distinguished musician, which was situated a short
distance farther up the road, has been levelled with
the ground, and a row of humble dwellings, called
Grove Cottages, erected in its place. Dr. Crotch's
house is said to have been previously the residence
of Ryland, the engraver, who was executed for
forgery in 17 S3.

Nearly opposite Grove Cottages is a large house
— now cut up into two, one being stucco-fronted,
and ornamented with a veranda, and the other
faced with red brick — which was for many years
the residence of Samuel Richardson, the author of
" Clarissa Harlowe," " Sir Charles Grandison," &c.
Here he entertained large literary parties, in-
cluding such men as Johnson, Boswell, &c. In
the gardens attached to the house are some fine
cedars. Most of Richardson's works were written
whilst he was living here. Mrs. Barbauld, in her
" Life " of the novelist, prefixed to his " Corre-
spondence," tells us how that he " used to write in
a little summer-house or grotto, within his garden,
at North End, before the family were up, and when
they met at breakfast he communicated the pro-
gress of his story."

Richardson's villa, of which a view is given in
his " Correspondence," is described by Faulkner as
being situated near the Hammersmith turnpike
The precise locality of the house, however, seems
to have been unknown to some at least of the
inhabitants at the commencement of this century,
for Sir Richard Phillips used to relate with glee the
following anecdote respecting his inquiries in the
neighbourhood : — " A widow kept a public-house
near the corner of North End Lane, about two miles
from Hyde Park Corner, where she had lived about
fifty years ; and I wanted to determine the house
in which Samuel Richardson, the novelist, had

528

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

fNorth End.

resided in North End Lane. She remembered his
person, and described him as ' a round, short
gentleman, who most days passed her door,' and
she said she used to serve his family with beer.
' He used to live and carry on his business,' said I,
' in Sahsbury Square.' ' As to that,' said she, ' I
know nothing, for I never was in London.' ' Never
in London ! ' said I, ' and in health, with the free
use of your limbs ! ' ' No,' replied the woman ; ' I

already spoken, may be mentioned Burbage, the
actor, who at one time had a house at North End ;
Norden, the topographer, who dated the preface
of his projected "Speculum Britannias" from his
" poore house neere Fulham;" John Florio, a
scholar of the sixteenth century, and tutor to Prince
Henry, son of James L ; and George Cartvnight,
the author of a long-forgotten play called " Heroic
Love, or the Infanta of Spain : a Tragedy, 1661."

KANELAGH HOUSE.

had no business there, and had enough to do at
home.' ' Well, then,' I observed, ' you know your
own neighbourhood the better — which was the
house of Mr. Richardson, in the next lane ? ' 'I
don't know,' she replied ; ' I am, as I told you, no
traveller. / never was up the lane — I only know
that he did live somewhere up the lane.' ' Well,'
said I, ' but living in Fulham, you go to church ? '
' No,' said she, ' I never have time ; on a Sunday
our house is always full — I never was at Fulham
but once, and that was when I was married, and
many people say that was once too often, though
my husband was as good a man as ever broke
bread — God rest his soul ! ' "

Among the "notabilities" either resident in or
connected with Fulham, of whom we have not

Another resident was John Dunning, Lord Ash-
burton, who having struggled in early life against a
narrow income, left behind him a fortune of
;^i 50,000, though he died at fifty-two. Here, on
reaching affluence, he gave a magnificent dinner in
honour of his mother, who was not only astonished,
but shocked, at the delicacies under which the
table groaned, and went off home next morning,
because she would not witness such scandalous
prodigality. " I tell you," said the good woman,
" such goings-on can come to no good, and you
will see the end of it before long. However, it
shall not be said that your mother encouraged you
in such waste, for I mean to set off to Devonshire
in the coach to-morrow morning ; " and despite her
son's entreaties, she kept her word.

Hammersmith.-) ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISION OF HAMMERSMITH.

529

THE " RED COW

HAMiMERSMliU (1S60).

CHAPTER XXXIX.

HAMMERSMITH.

Ecclesiastical Division of Hammersmith from Fulham— The Principal Streets and Thoroughfares-The RaiUvay Stations— The '■ Bell and Anchor"
Tavern— The " Red Cow "—Nazareth House, the Home of "The Little Sisters of the Poor "—The Old Benedictine Convent, now a Training

~ ' * " ' ' "" " ' Brook Green — i'he Church of the Holy

essrs.

Manor

he Parish Church — The Monument of

College for the Priesthood— Dr. Bonaventura Giflard-The West London Hospiul-The Broadway— Brook Green— The Church of the
Trinity- St Joseph's Almshouses- St. Mary's Normal College-Roman Catholic Keformatories-Blythe House-Market Gardens— M.
Lee's Nursery— The Church of St. John the Evangelist, in Dartmouth Road— Godolphin School Ravenscourt Park The Ancient ^

nt Old Pump — Queen Street-

ursery
House of Pallenswick- Starch Green-The Old London Road— A Q ^ , .,,,_ ^ , ,

Sir Nicholas Crispe— The Enshrined Heart of St. Nicholas Crispe-The Impostor, John Tuck-Latymer Schools-The Convent of the
Good Shepherd-Sussex House-Brandenburgh House-George Bubb Dodington-The Margravine of Brandenburgh-Anspach-The
Funeral of Queen Caroline- Hammersmith Suspension Bridge-Hammersmith Mall— The High Bridge-The "Dove" Coffee-house, and
Thomson the Poet-Sir Samuel Morland-The Upper Mall-Catharine, Queen of Charles H.- Dr. Radcliffe-Arthur Murph.y-De Louther-
bourg-Other Eminent Residents-Leigh Hunt-St. Peter's Church-A Public-spirited Artist-The Hammersmith Ghost.

Down

The town of Hammersmith, where we now
find ourselves, is a large straggling place; the
population of the parish is over 97,000. It lies
principally on the high road, which, before the
introduction of railways, was the main thorough-
285

fare from London to the ^^"est of England,
to the year 1S34 it was known parochially as the
Hammersmith division, or side, of the parish of
Fulham ; but since that period it has not only been
made a separate parish, but it has also become in

5.3°

OLD AND' NEW LONDON.

(Hamnieniniith.

its turn the parent of four separate ecclesiastical
districts. During the Interregnum, it was proposed
to make the hamlet parochial, and to add to it Sir
Nicholas Crispe's house, between Fulham Road
and the river, of which we shall presently speak,
and a part of North End, " extending from the
common highway to London unto the end of
Gibbs's Green." The parish now extends from
Kensington on the east, along the high road to
Turnham Green, and by the side of the Thames
from the Crab Tree to Chiswick; and it includes
the hamlets of Brook Green, Pallenswick, or Stan-
brook Green, and Shepherd's Bush. Faulkner, in
his "History of Fulham" (1813), in speaking of
the separation of Hammersmith from F"ulham, and
its erection into an ecclesiastical district, remarks,
" When the inhabitants of Fulham and the in-
habitants of Hammersmith did mutually agree to
divide the parish, it was also agreed that a ditch
should be dug as a boundary between them, it
being the custom of those days to divide districts
in this manner, whereupon a ditch was dug for ,
the above purposes. This watercourse," he adds,
" begins a little to the west of the elegant seat
of the late Bubb Dodington, Esq. [Brandenburgh
House] ; there it is formed into canals, fish-ponds,
&c. ; out of his garden it crosseth the road from |
Fulham Field to Hammersmith, and so in a
meandering course bearing westerly and northerly, I
it crosseth the London Road opposite the road
leading to Brook Green, and from thence, on the
north side of the London Road, it runs easterly,
and falls into Chelsea Creek, at Counter's Bridge."
The town of Hammersmith consists of several
streets, the principal of which is King Street, which
formed i>art of the road to Windsor, about a mile
and a half long ; at the eastern end this street
widens into the Broadway, where it is crossed by
a road from Brook Green and the U.xbridge Road,
which is continued over the Suspension Bridge into
Surrey. The main streets are lined throughout with
numerous shops, while the busy posting-houses of
former times have given way to four large railway
stations — the London and South-Western, in the
Grove ; the North London, in the Brentford Road ;
and the Metropolitan and the Metropolitan Dis-
trict in the Broadway. Altogether, therefore, the
place now wears a modern business-like aspect,
in spite of a number of old red-brick mansions.
At the commencement of the present century, as
we learn from Faulkner, the village had several
good houses in and about it, and was " inhabited
by gentry and persons of quality." Now these
old mansions are for the most part pulled down,
converted into public inslitiuions or school.s, cut

up into smaller tenements, or made to give place
to large and busy factories. Here and there a
picturesque old tavern may still be seen, recalling
to mind the times when stage-coaches travelled
along the Hammersmith Road, on their way to the
West of England ; one such, in the neighbourhood
of North End Road, is the " Bell and Anchor,'
an inn much patronised by people of fashion in
the early part of the reign of George HL, though
now frequented only by the working population
about North End. Mr. Larwood tells us, in his
" History of Sign-boards," that representations of
the place and of its visitors may be seen in cari-
catures of the period published by Bowles and
Carver, of St. Paul's Churchyard. Another public-
house, farther along the road, bearing the sign of
the " Red Cow," still bears upon its exterior
clear evidence of its antiquity : it is said to have
stood here for over a couple of centuries.

If there is one spot in the neighbourhood of
London to which the English Roman Catholics
look with greater veneration than another, just as
the Nonconformist looks to Bunhill Fields Ceme-
tery, that spot is Hammersmith, which contains an
unusual number of establishments belonging to the
members of that faith.

On the south side of the high road, just before
entering the town, and close to the busy thorough-
fare of King Street East, stands a tall Gothic
building, of secluded and religious appeai-ancc,
three storeys high, the home of those noble-hearted
ladies, of whose self-denial any communion in the
world might well be proud — the " LitUe Sisters of
the Poor." We will not attempt to describe it
in our own words, but will employ those of the
biographer of Thomas Walker, the London police
magistrate, and author of " The Original " — a
gentleman whose Protestant zeal is beyond suh-
picion. He writes : " AVe are under the roof of the
Little Sisters of the Poor. The house is full of
old folk, men and women. It is Death's vestibule
governed by the gentlest charity I have ever seen
acting on the broken fortunes of mankind. The
sisters are so many gentlewomen who have i)ut
aside all those worldly vanities so dear in these
days of hoops and paint to the majority of their
sisters, and have dedicated their lives to the menial
service of destitute old age. They beg crusts and
bones from door to door, and spread the daily
board for their pm/i-i^cs with the crumbs from the
rich men's tables. And it is only after the old men
and women have feasted on the best of the crumbs
that the noble sisters break their fast. I stepped
into the Little Sisters' refectory. The dishes were
lieaps of hard crusts and senilis of cheese ; and at

Hammersmith. 3

NAZARETH HOUSE.

S3I

the ends of the table were jugs of water. The
table was as clean as that of the primmest epicure.
The seniette of each sister was folded within a
ring. And the sisters sit daily — are sitting to-day,
will sit to-morrow — with perfect cheerfulness, their
banquet the crumbs from pauper tables ! Cheer-
fulness will digest the hardest crust, the horniest
cheese, or these pious women had died long ago.
He who may find it difficult to make the first step
to the cleanly, healthy, gentlemanly life into which
Thomas Walker schooled himself, should knock
at the gate of the hermitage wherein the Little
Sisters of the Poor banquet pauper age, and pass
into the refectory of these gentlewomen. It is but
a stone's-throw out of the noisy world. It lies in
the midst of London. Here let the half-repentant,
the wavering Sybarite rest awhile, pondering the
help which a holy cheerfuhiess gives to the stomach
— yea, when the food is an iron crust and cheese-
parings." The edifice, called Nazareth House, or
the " Convent of the Little Daughters of Nazareth,"
is shut in from the roadway by a brick wall, and the
grounds attached to it e.\tend back a considerable
distance. It provides not only a home for aged,
destitute, and infirm poor persons, but likewise a
hospital for epileptic children.

On the opposite side of the high road, and within
a few yards from Nazareth House, is a group of
Roman Catholic institutions, the chief of which
is the old Benedictine convent, now used as a
training college for the priesthood. The site of
this college has been devoted to the purposes of
Roman Catholic education from the days of King
Henry VIII., for it was a school for young ladies
for more than three centuries down to the year
1869, when the building was first used as a train-
ing college. But the tradition is that it existed
as a convent some time before the Reformation ;
and that subsequently to that date, though osten-
sibly it was only a girls' school, in reality it was
carried on by professed religious ladies, who were
nuns in disguise, and who said their office and
recited their litanies and rosaries in secret, whilst
wearing the outward appearance of ordinary Eng-
lishwomen. Faulkner, in his "History of Hammer-
smith," mentions this tradition, and adds that it is
supposed " to have escaped the general destruction
of religious houses on account of its want of endow-
ment." If this really was the case, then poverty is
sometimes even to be preferred to wealth.

On the breaking-up of the religious houses in
England most of the sisterhoods retired to the
Continent, where they kept up the practice of
their vows unbroken ; and we find that a body
of Benedictine sisters settled at Dunkirk in 1662,

under their abbess, Dame Mary Caryl, whom
they regarded as the founder of their house, and
who was previously a nun at Ghent. Another
Benedictine house, largely recruited from the ladies
of the upper classes in England — a colony from the
same city — was settled about the same time at
Boulogne, and soon after removed to Pontoise, in
the neighbourhood of Paris.

As the English Reformation, two centuries and
a half before, had driven this Ghent sisterhood
from England, so in 1793 the outbreak of the first
French Revolution wafted its members back again
— not, however, by a very tranquil passage — to the
shores which their great-great-grandparents had
been forced to leave. Already, however, some-
tliing had been done to prepare tlie way for their
return. Catherine of Braganza, the poor neglected
queen of Charles II., invited over to England some
members of a sisterhood at Munich, called the
Institute of the Blessed Virgin, and these she
settled and supported during her husband's life in
a house in St. Martin's Lane. On the death of
the king, finding their tenure so near to the Court
to be rather insecure, these ladies were glad to
migrate farther afield. The chance was soon given
to them. A certain Mrs. Frances Bedingfeld, a
sister, we believe, of the first baronet of that family,
procured, by the aid of the queen, the possession
of a large house — indeed, the largest house at that
time — in Hammersmith, to the north of the road,
near the Broadway, and with a spacious garden
behind it. This house adjoined the ladies' school
which we have already mentioned ; and in course
of time the sub rosd convent and the sisterhood
from St. Martin's Lane were merged into one insti-
tution under an abbess, who followed the Bene-
dictine rule. The Lady Frances Bedingfeld, as
foundress, became the first abbess ; and she was
succeeded by Mrs. Cecilia Cornwallis, who was a
kinswoman of Queen Anne. The school, though
somewhat foreign to tlie scope of a contemplative
order, was now carried on more openly and
avowedly, though still in modest retirement, by
the Benedictine sisterhood, who, adding a third
messuage to their two houses, at once taught the
daughters of the Roman Catholic aristocracy, and
established a home in which ladies in their widow-
hood might take up their residence en pension, with
the privilege of hearing mass and receiving the
sacraments in the little chapel attached to it.

Thus the school became absorbed in the convent
two centuries ago. In the year 1680 the infamous
Titus Oates obtained from the authorities a com-
mission to search the house, as being a reputed
nunnery, as well as a well-known home of Papists

53'2

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Hammersmith.

and recusants. It is not a little singular that,
although there was no cheap daily press in his day,
we have two separate and independent reports of
this proceeding which have come down to us. The
first is to be found in the Domestic Intelligencer,
or News both from City and Country, for January
13th, 1679-80. The other report, more briefly
and tersely expressed, appears in the True Domestic
Intelligencer of the same date.

Exactly a century passed away, so far as any
records or traditions have been preserved, before
the Benedictine sisters again experienced any
alarm ; but in June, 1780, the convent was doomed
to destruction by the infuriated mob. The only
precaution which the nuns appear to have taken
was to pack up the sacramental plate in a chest,
which the lady abbess intrusted to a faithful friend
and neighbour, Mr. Gomme by name, who kindly
buried it in his garden till the danger had passed
away.

Twenty-five ladies from foreign convents on
their an-ival in England came to Hammersmith,
and made it their temporary home until they could
obtain admission into other religious houses. In
fact, on their arrival they found only three aged
nuns, including the abbess, who rejoiced at being
able to give them the shelter which they so much
needed. The school was accordingly carried on
by the Abbess of Pontoise (Dame Prujean), who
here revived the school which had dwindled away ;
and for many years it was the only Catholic ladies'
school near the metropolis. Faulkner gives no
list of abbesses who ruled this convent during the
two centuries of its existence at Hammersmith.
^\'e are able, however, to give it complete from a
private source, a MS. in the possession of Mrs.
Jervis, a near relative of the Markhams, who, at
various times, were " professed " within its walls.
The list runs as follows : — Frances Bedingfeld
(1669), Cicely Cornwallis (1672), Frances Bernard
(17 15), Mary Delison (1739), Frances Gentil (1760),
Marcella Dillon (1781), Mary Placida Messenger
(1S12), and Placida Selby (1S19). The convent
at Hammersmith, composed as it was of three
private houses, and built in such a way as to do
anything rather than attract the attention of the
public eye, jircsentcd anytiiing but an attractive
ajjpearance. A high wall screened it from the
])assers-by, and the southern face was simply a
plain brick front, pierced with two rows of plain
Sash windows. Inside, the rooms used as dormi-
tories and class-rooms had the same heavy and
dreary look, as if the place were a cross between a
badly-endowed parsonage and a workhouse school.

The chapel, which was, built in 1812 by Mr.

George Gillow, and served for many years — in fact,
down to 1852 — as the "mission chapel" of Ham-
mersmith and the neighbourhood, still stands, the
lower end of it having been cut off and made
into a library for the students who have occupied
these buildings, now called St. Thomas' Seminary,
since they were vacated by the sisterhood.
At the south-eastern corner, between the house
and the road, stood a porter's lodge and the guest-
rooms ; but these have been pulled down. Here,
too, it is said, stood the original chapel. The
principal of the training college, Bishop Wethers,
coadjutor to Cardinal Manning, resides in the
western portion of the building, formerly the
residence of the Portuguese minister, the Baron
Moncorvo.

In the middle of the eighteenth century the
Vicar-Apostolic of the London District — as the
chief Roman Catholic Bishop in England was
then called — had his home at Hammersmith, from
which place several of the pastoral letters of those
prelates were dated.

Here — probably in apartments attached to the
convent — died, in 1733, in his ninetieth year, Dr.
Bonaventura Giffard, chaplain to King James II.,
and nominated by that king to the headship of
Magdalen College, Oxford, though divested of his
office at the Revolution. He became afterwards
one of the Roman Catholic bishops in partibus,
and lived a life of apostolical poverty, simplicity,
and charity. On his deposition from Magdalen
College, Dr. Giffard was arrested and imprisoned
in Newgate, simply for the exercise of his spiritual
functions. Being a man of peace, he hved privately,
with the connivance of the Government of the time,
in London and at Hammersmith, where he was re-
garded as almost a saint on account of his charity.
He attended the Earl of Derwentwater before his
execution at the Tower in 17 16.

Here Dr. Challoner, the ablest Roman Catholic
controversialist of the eighteenth century, was con-
secrated, in January, 1741, a bishop of his church
and Vicar-.'\postolic of the London District, witli
the title of Bishop of Debra in partibus injidelium.
Cardinal Weld was for three years director of the
Benedictine nuns of this convent.

" A nunnery," writes Priscilla Wakefield in 18 14,
" is not a common object in England ; but there
is at Hammersmith one which is said to have
taken its rise from a boarding-school established
in the reign of Charles II., for young ladies of the
Catholic Churcli. The zeal of the governesses and
teachers," she adds, " induced them voluntarily to
subject themselves to monastic rules, a system that
has been preserved by many devotees, who have

Hammersmith.]

BROOK GREEN.

533

taken the veil and secluded themselves from the
world."

In King Street East stands the West London
Hospital, a handsome building, wholly dependent
on voluntary contributions. Stow mentions a Lock
Hospital* at Hammersmith ; but its site cannot be
fixed.

On the south side of the main road, near Brook
Green, at the corner of " Red Cow Lane," are
the new buildings of St. Paul's School, which was
removed to this site in 1S84, from its very confined
site in St. Paul's Churchyard. The buildings are
lofty and fine, and stand in a playground of about
eight acres. They are from the designs of Water-
house, and will accommodate about 500 scholars.

The Broadway forms the central part of the
town, whence roads diverge to the right and left ;
that to the right leads to Brook Green, whilst that
on the left hand leads to the Suspension Bridge
across the Thames. On the north side of the
Broadway, up a narrow court, is a large house
surrounding a quadrangle. It used to be a sort of
seraglio for George IV., when Prince of Wales ;
but it is now cut up into tenements for poor people.

Brook Green — so called from a small tributar\-
of the Thames which once wound its way through
it from north-west to south-east — connects the
Broadway, on the north side, with Shepherd's Bush,
which lies west of Netting Hill, on the U.xbridge
Road. It is a long narrow strip of common land,
bordered with elms and chestnuts, and can still
boast of a few good houses. In former times a
fair was held here annually in May, lasting three
days. At the eastern end of the green is a group
of Roman Catholic buildings, the chief of which is
the Church of the Holy Trinity. This is a spacious
stone edifice of the Early Decorated style of archi-
tecture, and has a lofty tower and spire at the north-
eastern corner. The first stone of the building was
laid in 1851, by Cardinal Wiseman.

The external appearance of this church derives
some additional interest from its contiguity to the
scarcely less beautiful almshouses of St. Joseph,
the first stone of which was laid by the Duchess
of Norfolk, in May, 185 1. The almshouses are
built in a style to correspond with the church, and
form together with it a spacious quadrangle. They
provide accommodation for forty aged persons, and
are managed by the committee of the Aged Poor
Society.

On the opposite side of the road stands St.
Mary's Normal College, built from the designs of
Mr. Charles Hansom, of Clifton, in the Gothic

* See Vol. v., pp. 14, 215, and 528.

style of architecture. It contains a chapel, and
is capable of accommodating seventy students.
Near at hand are a Roman Catholic Reformatory
for boys and another for girls. The former is
located in an ancient mansion, Blythe House.
'I'his house, Faulkner informs us, was reported
to have been haunted ; " many strange stories,"
he adds, "were related of ghosts and apparitions
having been seen here ; but it turned out at
last that a gang of smugglers had taken up their
residence in it, supposing that this sequestered
place would be favourable to their illegal pursuits."
No doubt, in the last century, the situation of
Blythe House was lonely and desolate enough
to favour such a supposition as the above ; and,
apart from this, the roads about Hammersmith in
the reign of George II. would seem to have been
haunted by footpads and robbers. At all events,
Mr. Lewins, in his " History of the Post Office,"
reminds us that in 1757, the boy who carried the
mail for Portsmouth happening to dismount at
Hammersmith, about three miles from Hyde Park
Corner, and to call for beer, some thieves took the
opportunity to cut the mail-bags from off the horse's
crupper, and got away undiscovered. The plunder
was probably all the more valuable, as there was
then no " money-order office," and even large sums
of money were enclosed in letters in the shape of
bank-notes.

At that time nearly all the land in the outskirts
of Hammersmith was under cultivation as nurseries
or market gardens, whence a large portion of the
produce for the London markets was obtained.
Bradley, in his " Philosophical Account of the
Works of Nature," published in 1721, tells us that
" the gardens about Hammersmith are famous for
strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, and
such like ; and if early fruit is our desire," he adds,
" Mr. Millet's garden at North End, near the same
place, affords us cherries, apricots, and curiosities
of those kinds, some months before the natural
season."

Messrs. Lee's nurser)' garden here enjoyed great
celebrity towards the close of the last century ;
and it is said that they were the first who intro-
duced the fuchsia, now so common, to the public.
Their nursery was formerly a vineyard, where large
quantities of Burgundy wine were made. To store
the wine a thatched house was built, and several
large cellars were excavated. The rooms above
were afterwards in the occupation of ^Vorlidge, the
engraver, and here he executed many of the most
valuable and admired of his works.

It was close by Lee's nursery that Samuel Taylor
Coleridge stayed frequently with his friends tlie

S34

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

rHammerimith.

Morgans, who lived on the road between Kensing-
ton and Hammersmith. H. Crabb Robinson, in
his "Diary," under date July 28, 181 1, tells us
how he " after dinner walked to Morgan's, beyond
Kensington, to see Coleridge, and found Southey
there."

The region northward of the main thoroughfare
through Hammersmith is being rapidly covered
with streets, many of the houses being of a superior

The buildings include a large school-room, capable
of accommodating 200 boys, several class-rooms, a
dining-hall, dormitories for forty boarders, and a
residence for the head-master.

Ravenscourt Park, at the north-western extremity
of Hammersmith, marks the site of the ancient
manor-house of Pallenswick, which is supposed to
have belonged to Alice Ferrers, or Pierce, a lady of
not very enviable fame at the court of Edward III.,

1111. l()N\KNr, IIAMMF.RSMITH, 1\ I SoO.

class, particularly in the neighbourhood of Ravens-
court Park. In Dartmouth Road is the church of
St. John the Evangelist, a large and lofty edifice,
of Early-English architectare, built in i860, from
the designs of Mr. Butterfield. It was erected by
voluntary contributions, at a cost of about ^6,000.
Close by St. John's Church is the Godolphin School,
which was founded in the sixteenth century under
the will of William Godolphin, but remodelled as a
grammar scliool, in accordance with a scheme of
the Court of Chancery, in 1861. The buildings of
this institution are surrounded by playgrounds,
about four acres in extent ; the school is built, like
the adjoining church, of brick, with stone niullions
and dressings, and it is in the Early Collegiate
Gothic style, from the designs of Mr. C. H. Cooke.

upon whose banishment, in 1378, the place was
seized by the Crown. The survey of the manor,
taken about that time, describes it as containing
"forty acres of land, sixty of pasture, and one
and a half of meadow." The manor-house is de-
scribed as " well built, in good repair, and contain-
ing a large hall, chapel. Sec." In 1631 the manor
of Pallenswick was sold to Sir Richard Gurney, the
brave and loyal Lord Mayor of London, who died
a prisoner in the Tower in 1647. Down to nearly
the close of the last century, the manor-house was
surrounded by a moat, and Faulkner describes it
as " of the style and date of the French architect
Mansard . . . Tradition," he adds, "has
assigned the site of this house as having been a
hunting-seat of Edward III. His arms, richly

536

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Hammersmith.

carved in wood, stood, till within these few years,
in a large upper room, but they fell to pieces upon
being removed when the house was repaired ; the
crest of Edward the Black Prince, which was placed
over the arms, is still preserved in a parlour, and is
in good preservation. . . . It is very probable
that this piece of carving was an appendage to the
ancient manor-house when it was in the possession
of Alice Pierce." Ravenscourt Park is now laid
out as a public recreation ground.

A little to the north of the Park lies Starch
Green, which — like Stamford Brook Green and
Gaggle-Goose Green, in the same neighbourhood,
mentioned by Faulkner as " two small rural vil-
lages " — is now being rapidly covered with houses,
and is one of those places which are fortunate
enough not to have a history.

The ancient high road from the west to London
commenced near the " Pack-horse " Inn, at Turn-
ham Green, which lies at the western extremity of
Hammersmith, and of which we shall speak pre-
sently. It passed through Stamford Brook Green,
Pallenswick, and Bradmoor. At the beginning
of this century it was very narrow and impassable,
though large sums of money had been spent on its
repair. The road, which is now in part lined with
houses, skirts the north side of Ravenscourt Park,
and joins the U.xbridge Road at Shepherd's Bush.
At the junction of the two roads formerly stood
an ancient inn, where all the country travellers
stopped in their journeys to or from the metro-
polis. This is supposed to have been the house
that Miles Syndercombe hired for the purpose of
carrying out his proposed assassination of Crom-
well, in January, 1657, while on his journey from
Hampton Court to London.

Dull, dreary, and uninteresting as this part of
Hammersmith may have been in former times, it
appears to have possessed at least one curiosity :
the portrait of a quaint old pump, in Webb's Lane,
with a sort of font in front of it to catch the
water, figures in Hone's " Every-Day Book," under
September loth, but apparently little or nothing
was or is known of its history. Under the por-
trait in the " Every-Day Book " are the following
lines : —

" A walking man should not refrain

To take a saunter up Webb's Lane,

Towards .Sliepberd's Bush, to see a rude

Old lumbering pump. It's made of wood,

And pours its water in a font

So beautiful that, If he don't

A(bnire how such a combination

Was formed in such a situ.ilion,

He has no i>ower of causation,

Or taste, or feeling, but must live

Painless and plcasureless, and give

Himself to doing — what he can.
And die — a sorry sort of man ! "

Retracing our steps to the Broadway, we enter
Queen Street, which passes in a southerly direction
to the Fulham Road, from the junction of the
Broadway and Bridge Road. On the west side of
this street stands the parish church, dedicated to
St. Paul. It was originally a chapel of ease to
Fulham, and is remarkable as the church in which
one of the last of those romantic entombments
known as "heart burials " took place. The church
was built during the reign of Charles I., at the
cost of Sir Nicholas Crispe, a wealthy citizen of
London.

Bowack thus describes this church in 1705 : —
" The very name of a chapel of ease sufficiently
points out the causes of its erection, and indeetl
the great number of people inhabiting in and near
this place, at such a great distance from Fulham
Church, made the erecting of a chapel long desired
and talked of before it could be effected; but
about the year 1624 the great number of gentry
residing hereabouts being sensible of the incon-
venience, as well as the poorer people, began in
earnest to think of this remedy ; and after several
of them had largely subscribed, they set about the
work with all possible application. The whole
number of inhabitants who were willing to enjoy
the benefit of this chapel voluntarily subscribed,
and were included within the limits belonging to it
upon the division, so that a very considerable sum
was secured. . . . About the year 1628 the
foundation of the chapel was laid, and the building
was carried on with such expedition, that in the
year 1631 it was completely finished' and conse-
crated ; though, at the west end, there is a stone
fixed in the wall with this date, 1630, which was
placed there when the said end was built, probably
before the inside was begun. The whole building
is of brick, very spacious and regular, and at the
east [west] end is a large square tower of the same
with a ring of six bells. The inside is very well
finished, being beautified with several devices in
painting. The ceiling also is very neatly painted,
and in several compartments and ovals were finely
depicted the arms of England, also roses, thistles,
fleur-de-luces, &c., all of which the rebels in their
furious zeal dashed out, or daubed over ; though
this particular act was more the effect of their
malice against his Majesty King Charles I., and
the sacred kingly office, than their blind zeal
against Popery, endeavouring, to the utmost, that
the memory of a king should be expunged the
world. The glass of the chancel window was also
finely painted with Moses, Aaron, &:c. ; also the

Hamnifrrsmlrli.l

THE PARISH CHURCH.

537

arms of the most considerable benetaclors ; but
these have been much abused (probably by the
same ungodly crew), as relics of Fopery and super-
stition ; however, the remains of them evince their
former art and beauty, which was very extra-
ordinar}'. In several of the other windows like-
wise, there are the benefactors' coats of arms,
particularly Sir Nicholas Crispe's, who may be
called its founder, himself giving, in money and
materials, the sum of ^700 towards its building.
It was likewise very well paved, and pewed with
wainscot, and made commodious and beautiful
within ; the whole charge of which was about two
thousand and odd pounds. . . . Notwith-
standing the ill usage this chapel has met with,
it is still in very good condition ; beside this,
adorned with several stately monuments now
standing."

Such, then, was the condition of this church
within three-quarters of a century of its erection.
Since that time it has undergone extensive repairs
on different occasions, and in the year 1864 it was
restored and enlarged. But it was soon found that
no amount of patching and repairing would convert
an unsightly building into a noble structure worthy
of the parish and of the sacred purposes for which
it is designed. Accordingly in 1882-3, t'""^ o'"J
church was pulled down, and a new one of lofty
proportions, to seat about a thousand worshippers
on the floor, erected on the same site. The most
interesting portion of the old church was some
carving in festoons over the communion-table, said
to be the work of Grinling Gibbons ; but this was
found to be past all repair. The quaint Italian
baldachino or reredos in the former church is said
to have been put up by Archbishop Laud, who
consecrated the building, using the same form of
prayer which was used, after an interval of more
than two centuries, at the opening of the new
edifice. The architects of the new church were
Messrs. Seddon and Gough, and the first stone
of the building was laid by the lamented Duke
of Albany in July, 1882.

A picturesque avenue of old trees leads to the
north door of the church, whilst the footpath is
lined on each side by several rows of tombs, some
bearing foreign names, probably of the Walloons
employed in the tapestry works, or of persons
who were domesticated at Brandenburgh House
during the residence there of the Margrave of
Anspach and his widow. Within the church are
the tombs of many persons famous in history.
Among them may be mentioned one of black and
white marble, to the Earl of Mulgrave, who com-
manded a squadron against the Spanish Armada,

and was afterwards President of the North under
James I. ; he died in 1646. A tomb, with bust
of Alderman James Smith, who died in 1667 ; he
was the founder of Bookham Almshouses, and
" the father of twenty children." Another, of Sir
Edward Nevill, Justice of Common Pleas, who died
in 1705. Thomas Worlidge, the painter, whose
unrivalled etchings are choice gems of the English
School of Art, is commemorated by a tablet ; as
also is Arthur Murpiiy, the dramatic writer and
essayist, and friend of Dr. Johnson. Sir Samuel
Morland, Sir Elijah Impey, and Sir George Shea
were likewise buried here.

As we have intimated above, however, the most
remarkable monument in Hammersmith parish
church is that of Sir Nicholas Crispe, of whom
Faulkner speaks as " a man of loyalty, that deserves
perpetual remembrance." " What especially pleases
us in the consideration of the character of this
worthy citizen," writes Mr. S. C. Hall, in his
" Pilgrimages to English Shrines," " is the broad
principle of his humanity : he honoured and
revered Charles I. beyond all otlier beings ; he
honoured him as a king, he loved him as a man' :
he contributed largely to his young sovereign's
wants during his exile. Yet his loyalty shut not
up his heart against those who differed from him
in opinion ; his sympathies were not conventional,
they were not confined to a class, but extended tc
all his kind. When himself in exile, he made his
private misfortunes turn to public benefits ; he
investigated all foreign improvements and turned
them to English uses ; he encouraged the farmers
of Middlesex in all agricultural pursuits ; through
his knowledge, new inventions, as to paper-mills,
powder-mills, and water-mills, came into familiar
use ; he discovered the value of the brick-making
earth in his immediate neighbourhood, and the art
itself, as since practised, was principally, if not
entirely, his own." Sir Nicholas, shortly after the
Restoration, caused to be erected in Hammersmith
Church, in the south-east corner, near the pulpit,
a monument of black and white marble, eight feet
in height and two in breadth, upon which was
placed a bust of the king, immediately beneath
which is the following inscription : — " This efligy
was erected by the special appointment of Sir
Nicholas Crispe, Knight and Baronet, as a grate-
ful commemoration of that glorious martyr. King
Charies the First, of blessed memory." Beneath,
on a pedestal of black marble, is an urn, enclosing
the heart of the brave and loyal knight, which, like
the heart of Richard Coeur de Lion and that of
the gallant Marquis of Montrose, has found a rest-
ing-place apart from that where his body reposes.

538

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

'"HammersmitTl.

On the pedestal is inscribed : " Within this um is
enclosed the heart of Sir Nicholas Crispe, Knight
and Baronet, a loyal sharer in the sufferings of
his late and present Majesty. He first settled
the trade of gold from Guinea, and then built
the Castle of Cormantin. He died 28th of July,
1665, aged 67." Miss Hartshorne, in her work

who, by his will, dated 1624, bequeathed thirty-five
acres of land in Hammersmith, " the profits of
which were to be appropriated to clothing six poor
men, clothing and educating eight poor boys, and
distributing in money." In consequence of the
increased value of the land, in Faulkner's time
the number of boys had been augmented to thirty,

on " Enshrined Hearts," tells us that Sir Nicholas left a sum
of money for the especial purpose that his heart might be
refreshed with a glass of wine every year, and that his
singular becjuest was regularly carried out for a century,
when the heart became too much decayed. " Lay my
body," he said to his grandson when on his death-bed —
" lay my body, as I have directed, in the family vault in
the parish church of St. Mildred in Bread Street, but let
MY HEART be placed in an urn at my master's feet."

An amusing account of an impostor named John Tuck,
who was afterwards transported for other frauds, officiating
and preaching in this church as a clergyman in the year
181 1, will be found in the "Eccentric." He was the son
of a labourer in Devonshire.

Near the church arc the Latymer Schools, which were
founded in the seventeenth century by Edward Laty:ner,

and the poor men to ten. In 1879
the Charity Commissioners propounded a
scheme under which the Latymer charity
was completely remodelled. The school
lias been rebuilt, and now at'tbrds a middle-
class education to 250 boys, at a small
weekly fee; and ;^75 per annum is
ordered to be set aside for "six poor
men," under the conditions of the will
Tiie uniform which Latymer directed to
be worn has been discontinued.

H.iminersmith,!

BRANDENBURGH HOUSE.

539

In Queen Street, nearly opposite the church,
is a large brick mansion, which formed part of a
house once the residence of Edmund Sheffield,
Earl of Mulgrave and Baron of Butterwick, who
died here in the year 1646. In 1666 the house
and premises, then known as the manor-house and
farm of Butterwick, were conveyed to the family
of the Femes, by whom the old mansion was
modernised and cut up into two. Early in the
last century the place was sold to Elijah Impey,
father of the Indian judge of that name, whose
family long resided in it. The old portion of the
mansion was pulled down many years ago. The
principal front of the house, as it now stands, is
ornamented with four stone classic columns, and it
is surmounted by a pediment.

On the right-hand side of the Fulham Road,
which branches off from Queen Street opposite
the parish church, stands a large group of brick
buildings, designed by Pugin, and known as the
Convent of the Good Shepherd and the Asylum
for Penitent Women. The site was formerly occu-
pied by Beauchamp Lodge. This charity was
commenced in 1S41 by some ladies of the Order
of the Good Shepherd, who came from Angers, in
France, to carry on the work of the reformation
of female penitents under the auspices of Dr.
tiriffiths, then " Vicar-Apostolic of the London
District.'

Farther southward, opposite Alma Terrace, is
Sussex House, so named from having been occa-
sionally the residence of the late Duke of Susse.x,
and where his Royal Highness " was accustomed
to steal an hour from state and ceremony, and
indulge in that humble seclusion which princes
must find the greatest possible lu.xury."

Mrs. Billington, the singer, lived, here for some
time; and it was for many years a celebrated house
for insane patients, under the late Dr. Forbes
Winslow. In speaking of Sussex House, the Rev.
J. Richardson, in his " Recollections," tells an
amusing story of a visit paid to it by Mrs. Fry, the
prison philanthropist, whose restless benevolence
was by the uncharitable occasionally mistaken for
an impertinent propensity for prying into things
with which she had no business. " I'he Rev.
Mr. Clarke, son of the traveller. Dr. Clarke," he
writes, " was at one time confined in a lunatic
asylum. His visit to the place was fortunately
but a short one, and he was pronounced perfectly
compos mentis. A day or two before he left the
place he perceived, from the unusual bustle that
arose, that something of consequence was about to
happen ; and he learnt from one of the subordi-
nates that no less a person than the great Mrs. Fry,

attended by a staff of females, was about to inspect
the establishment. Being fond of a joke, Mr.
Clarke prevailed upon one of the keepers to intro-
duce the lady to him. This was accordingly done.
Mr. Clarke assumed the appearance of melan-
choly madness ; the lady and her suite advanced
to offer consolation and condolence ; he groaned,
rolled his eyes, and gibbered; they became alarmed.
He made gestures indicative of a rush at the
parties ; they retreated towards the door in precipi-
tation ; he rose from his seat, and was in instant
jjursuit. ' Sauve qui pent,' was the word ; the
retreat became a flight. Mrs. Fry, whose size and
age prevented celerity of movement, was upset in
the attempt ; the sisterhood were involved in her
fall ; their screams were mingled with the simulated
bowlings of the supposed maniac ; and it was with
some difficulty that they were eventually removed
from the floor and out of the room. I believe,"
continues Mr. Richardson, " that Mrs. Fry did not
again extend her researches into the mysteries of
lunatic asylums."

On the right-hand side of the Fulham Road,
nearly opposite Sussex House, and with its gardens
and grounds stretching away to the water-side,
stood Brandenburgh House, a mansion which in its
time passed through various vicissitudes. Accord-
ing to Lysons, it was built early in the reign of
Charles I. by Sir Nicholas Crispe, of whom we
have spoken above in our account of the parish
church, at a cost of nearly ^23,000. Sir Nicholas
was himself the inventor of the art of making bricks
as now practised.

During the Civil War in August, 1647, when the
Parliamentary army was stationed at Hammer-
smith, this house was plundered by the tioops
and General Fairfax took up his quarters there ;
Sir Nicholas being then in France, whither he had
retired when the king's affairs became desperate
and he could be of no further use. His estates
were, of course, confiscated ; but he, nevertheless,
managed to assist Charles II. when in exile with
money, and aided General Monk in bringing about
the Restoration. He had, it seems, entered largely
into commercial transactions with Guinea, and
had built upon its coast the fort of Cormantine.
In his old age he once more settled down in his
mansion on the banks of the Thames, and died
there. The house was sold by his successor to the
celebrated Prince Rupert, nephew of Charles I.,
so renowned in the Civil Wars. It was settled by
the prince upon his mistress, Margaret Hughes,
a much admired actress in the reign of Charles II.
She owned the house nearly ten years. It was
afterwards occupied by different persons of inferior

540

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

tHammersmtth.

note, until, in 1748, it became the residence of
George Bubb Dodington, afterwards Lord Mel-
combe, who completely altered and modernised !
it. He added a magnificent gallery for statues and
antiquities, of which the floor was inlaid with
various marbles, and the door-case supported by
columns richly ornamented with lapis lazuli. He
also gave to the house the name of La Trappe,
after a celebrated monastery ; and at the same time

Of Bubb Dodington, Lord Melcombe, we have
already spoken in our notice of Pall Mall ; * but
more remains to be narrated. His original name
was George Bubb, and he was the son of an apothe-
cary in Dorsetshire, where he was born in 1691.
He added the name of Dodington in compliment
to his uncle, Mr. George Dodington, who was one
of the Lords of the Admiralty during the reigns
of William HI., Queen Anne, and George L, and

BRANDENBURGH HOUSE, IN iSlS.

inscribed the following lines beneath a bust of
Comus placed in the hall : —

" Wliilc rosy wreaths the goblet deck.
Thus Comus spake, or sccm'd to speak ;
' This place, for social hours desijjn'd,
May care and business never find.
Come, cv'ry Muse, without rcstr.aint,
Let genius prompt, and fancy paint ;
Let mirth and wit, with friendly strife.
Chase the dull gloom that saddens life;
True wit, that, firm to virtue's cause,
Respects religion and the laws ;
True mirth, that cheerfulness supplies
To modest ears and decent eyes :
Let these indulge their liveliest sallies,
Both scorn the canker'd help of malice,
True to their country and their friend,
Both scorn to flatter or offend. '"

whose fortune he inherited. Mr. S. Carter Hall,
in his " Pilgrimages to EngHsh Shrines," writes ; —
" His amount of mind seems to have consisted in
a large share of worldly wisdom, which enriched
himself, a total want of conscience in political
movements, and a safety-loving desire of being on
friendly terms witli literary men and satirists, that
his faults and jollies might be overlooked under
the sliadow of his patronage. In his Diary, he
coolly details acts of jjolitical knavery that would
condemn any man, without appearing at all to feel
their impropriety. His face would have delighted
Lavater, so exactly characteristic is it of a well-fed,
mindless worldling."

• S«e Vol. IV., p. iij.

Hammersmith.]

GEORGK BUBB DODINGTON.

S41

Bubb Dodington's great failing seems to have was pleased to call his villa " La Trappe," and

been want of respect to himself " His talents,
his fortune, his rank, and his connections," says
a writer in the European Magazine for 1784,
" were sufficient to have placed him in a very
elevated situation of life, had he regarded his own

his inmates and familiars the " Monks " of the
Convent. " These," he adds, " were Mr. Wynd-
ham, his relation, whom he made his heir ; Sir
William Breton, Privy-Purse to the king; and Dr.
Thomson, a physician out of practice. These

HAMMERSMITH I\ 1746 i^FlOlll Roi ]IU s Map)

character and the advantages which belonged to
him ; by neglecting these, he passed through the
world without much satisfaction to himself, with
little respect from the public, and no advantage to
his country."

Richard Cumberland, whilst residing with his
father at the rectory at Fulham, formed an acquaint-
ance with this celebrated nobleman, and, in the
diary which he published, he tells us that Dodington
286

gentlemen formed a very curious society of very
opposite characters : in short, it was a //-/(', con-
sisting of a misanthrope, a courtier, and a quack."

In each of his tawdry mansions Dodington was
only to be approached through a long suite of
apartments, bedecked with gilding and a profusion
of finery ; and when the visitor reached the fat
deity of the place, he was found enthroned under
painted ceilings and gilt entablatures. "Of pictures,"

542

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

fHammersmitb,

says Cumberland, " he seemed to take his estimate
only by their cost ; in fact, he was not possessed
of any. But I recollect his saying to me one day,
in his great saloon at Eastbury, that if he had half
a score of pictures of ^i,ooo a-piece, he would
gladly decorate his walls with them ; in place of
which, I am sorry to say, he had stuck up immense
patches of gilt leather, shaped into bugle-horns,
upon hangings of rich crimson velvet, and round
his state bed he displayed a carpeting of gold and
silver embroidery, which too glaringly betrayed its
derivation from coat, waistcoat, and breeches by
the testimony of pockets, button-holes, and loops,
with other equally incontrovertible witnesses sub-
poenaed from the tailor's shop-board."

Dr. Johnson was an occasional visitor here.
One evening the doctor happening to go out into
the garden when there was a storm of wind and
rain, Dodington remarked to him tliat it was a
dreadful night. " No, sir," replied the doctor, in
a most reverential tone, " it is a very fine night.
The Lord is abroad."

Dodington's gardens are mentioned by Lady
Lepel Hervey as showing " the finest bloom and
the greatest promise of fruit." The approach to
the mansion was conspicuous for a large and
handsome obelisk, surmounted by an urn of
bronze, containing the heart of his wife. On the
disposal of the house by his heir, this obelisk
found its way to the park of Lord Ailesbury, at
Marlborough, in Wiltshire, where it was set up to
commemorate the recovery of George IIL On
one side of its base the following inscription
was placed : — " In commemoration of a signal
instance of Heaven's protecting Providence over
these kingdoms, in the year 1789, by restoring to
perfect health, from a long and afflicting disorder,
their excellent and beloved Sovereign, George the
Third : this tablet was inscribed by I'homas Bruce,
Earl of Ailesbury." The inscription may possibly
afford a useful hint as to the various purposes to
which obelisks may be applied when purchased at
second-hand.

After the death of Lord Melcombe, the house
was occupied for a time by a Mrs. Sturt, who here
gave entertainments, which were honoured with
the presence of royalty and the elite of fashion.
Sir Gilbert Elliot, in a letter to his wife, dated
June 13, 1789, writes: — "Last night we were all
at a masquerade at Hammersmith, given by Mrs.
Sturt. It is the house that was Lord Mclcombe's,
and is an excellent one for such occasions. I went
with Lady Palmerston, and Crewe, Windham, and
Tom Pelham. We did not get home till almost
six this morning. The Princes wjre all tli.ec at

Mrs. Sturt's, in Highland dresses, and looked very '
well." *

In 1792 the place was sold to the Margrave
of Brandenburgh-Anspach, who, shortly after his
marriage, in the previous year, to the sister of the
Earl of Berkeley, and widow of William, Lord
Craven, had transferred his estates to the King of
Prussia for a fair annuity, and had settled down
in England. His Highness died in 1806, but the
Margravine continued to make this house her chief
residence for many years afterwards. She was a
lady in whose personal history there were many
odds and ends with which she did not wish her
neighbours or the public to be acquainted. A
good story is told of her butler, an Irishman, to
whom she one day gave a guinea in order to set
a seal on his lips as to some early indiscretion
which he knew or had found out. The money,
however, took him to a tavern, where, in a circle
of friends, he grew warm and communicative, and
at last blabbed out the secret which he had been
fee'd to keep within his breast. The story coming
round to her ears, the lady reproached him for his
conduct, when Pat wittily replied, " Ah ! your
ladyship should not ha\e given me the money,
but have let me remain sober. I'm just like a
hedge-hog, my lady : when I am wetted, I open
at once."

The Margravine made many alterations in the
mansion, which was later named Brandenburg
House, and the principal apartments were filled
with paintings by such masters as Murillo, Rubens,
Cuyp, Reynolds, and Gainsborough, and adorned
with painted ceilings, St;vres vases, and marble
busts. A small theatre was erected in the garden,
near the river-side, where the Margravine often
gratified the lovers of the drama " by exerting her
talents both as a writer and performer." The
theatre is described by Mr. Henry Angelo, in his
" Reminiscences," as small, commodious, and
beautifully decorated. '' There was a parterre,
and also side-boxes. The Margrave's box was at
the back of the pit, and was usually occupied by
the elite of the company, the corps diplomatique,
iVc, &c. The Margravine, on all occasion.s, was
the prima donna, and mostly performed juvenile
characters ; but whether she represented the
heroine or the soubrctte, her personal appearance
and her talents are said to have captivated every
heart." Angelo, at her invitation, became one of
her standing dramatis persomr, and acted here en
amateur for several years. He tells many amusing
stories concerning the performances here on the

* '* Lifa and Lottcrs of Sir Gilbert Elliot, fint EnrI uf .Minto," vol, i.

Hammersmith.]

THE FUNERAL OF QUEEN CAROLINE.

543

Margrave's birthday, when a gay party assembled,
and the Margrave's plate was displayed on the
sideboard as a Jinale—\>\aXt which, at Rundell's,
" cost two thousand pounds more than that of
Queen Charlotte."

John Timbs, in his " London and Westminster,"
says " the Margravine must have been a grandiose
woman. She kept thirty servants in livery, besides
grooms, and a stud of si.\ty horses, in which she
took much delight. At the rehearsals of her
private theatricals she condescended to permit the
attendance of her tradesmen and their families ;
and on the days of performance. Hammersmith
Broadway used to be blocked up with fashionable
equipages, while the theatre itself was crowded
with nobles, courtiers, and high-born dames."

After twenty years' residence at Hammersmith,
the Margravine of Anspach went to live at Naples.
She had previously parted piecemeal with most of
the costly treasures which adorned her mansion,
and its next occupant was the unhappy Queen
Caroline, wife of George IV., who here kept up
her small rival court pending her trial in the
House of Lords. During the trial she received
here legions of congratulatory, sympathetic, and
consolatory effusions ; so much so, that the neigh-
bourhood of the mansion was kept in a constant
state of turmoil. Indeed, as Theodore Hook
wrote at the time in the Tory John Bull, —

" All kinds of addresses,
From collars of SS.
To vendors of cresses,

Came up like a fair ;
And all through September,
October, November,
And down to December,

They hunted this hare."

The Queen appears to have been unmercifully
lampooned by Hook, if we may judge from his
" Visit of Mrs. Muggins," a piece in thirty-one
stanzas, of which the following is a specimen : —

" Have you been to Brandenburgh, heigh, ma'am, ho,
ma'am ?
Have you been to Brandenbuigh, ho ? —
Oh yes, I have been, ma'am, to visit the (Jueen, ma'am,
With the rest of the gallantee show, show —
With the rest of the gallantee show.

" And who were the company, heigh, ma'am, ho, ma'am ?
Who were the company, ho ? —
We happened to drop in with gemmen from Wapping,
And ladies from Blowbladder-row, row —
Ladies from Blowbladder-row.

" What saw you at Brandenburgh, heigh, ma'am, ho, ma'am ?
What saw you at Brandenburgh, ho ? —
We saw a great dame, with a face red as flame.
And a character spotless as snow, snow —
A character spotless as snow.

"And who were attending her, heigh, ma'am, ho, ma'am?
Who were attending her, lio ? —
Lord Hood for a man — for a maid Lady Anne —
And Alderman Wood for a beau, beau —

Alderman Wood for a beau," &c. &c.

When the "Bill of Pains and Penalties" was
at last abandoned, the Hammersmith tradesmen
who served her illuminated their houses, and the
])opulace shouted and made bonfires in front of
Brandenburgh House. After her ac([uittal, the
poor queen publicly returned thanks for that issue
in Hammersmith Church, and more deputations
came to Brandenburgh House to congratulate her
on her triumph. She did not, however, long
survive the degradation to which she had been
subjected, for on the yth of August, 1821, she here
breathed her last. The following account of her
funeral we cull from the pages of John Timbs'
work we have quoted above : — " Was there ever
such a scandalous scene witnessed as that funeral
which started from Brandenburgh House, Hammer-
smith, at seven in the morning, on the 14th of
.August, 1821 ? It was a pouring wet day. The
imposing cavalcade of sable-clad horsemen who
preceded and followed the hearse were drenched
to the skin. . The procession was an incongruous
medley of charity-girls and Latymer-boys, strewing
flowers in the mud ; of aldermen and barristers,
of private carriages and hired mourning-coaches,
of Common Councilmen and Life-Guards ; wound
up by a hearse covered with tattered velvet drapery,
to vi^hich foil-paper escutcheons had been rudely
tacked on, and preceded by Sir George Naylor,
Garter King-at-Arms, with a cotton-velvet cushion,
on which was placed a trumpery sham crown,
made of pasteboard, Dutch-metal, and glass beads,
and probably worth about eighteenpence. How
this sweep's May-day cortege, dipped in black ink,
floundered through the mud and slush, through
Hamraersinith to Kensington, Knightsbridge, and
the Park, with a block-up of wagons, a tearing-up
of the road, and a fight between the mob and
soldiers at every turnpike, and at last at every
street-corner ; how pistol-shots were fired and
sabre-cuts given, and people killed in the Park;
how the executors squabbled with Garter over the
dead queen's coftin ; how the undertakers tried to
take the procession up the Edgware Road, and
the populace insisted upon its being carried
through the City; and how at last, late in the
afternoon, all draggle-tailed, torn, bruised, and
bleeding, this lamentable funeral got into Fleet
Street, passed through the City, and staggered out
by Shoreditch to Harwich, where the coffin was
bumped into a barge, hoisted on board a man-of-

544

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

CHammersmtth.

war, and taken to Stade, and at last to Brunswick,
where, by the side of him who fell at Jena and
him who died at Quatre Bras, the ashes of the
wretched princess were permitted to rest; — all
these matters you may find set down with a grim
and painful minuteness in the newspapers and
pamphlets of the day. It is good to recall them,
if only for a moment, and in their broad oudines ;
for the remembrance of these bygone scandals
should surely increase our gratitude for the better
government we now enjoy."

In less than a twelvemonth after the death of
Queen Caroline, the materials of Brandenburgh
House were sold by auction, and the mansion was
pulled down. A large factory now occupies its
site, and in the grounds, fronting the Fulham
Road, has been erected a house, to which the
name of " Brandenburgh " has been given ; but
this is occupied as a lunatic asylum.

About a quarter of a mile westward of the spot
whereon stood Brandenburgh House is Hammer-
smith Suspension Bridge, which, crossing the river
Thames, joins Hammersmith with Barnes. The
original bridge, completed in 1827, was the first
constructed on the suspension principle in the
vicinity of London. It was a light and elegant
stnicture, nearly 700 feet long ; its central span was
422 feet. The suspension towers rose nearly
fifty feet above the level of the roadway. The
bridge, being far too narrow for the ever-increasing
traffic, and even dangerous on boat-race days, was
taken down, and a new bridge was built on the
old lines, but of greater width and strength, in
1884-5.

Facing the river, from the Suspension Bridge
westward to Chiswick, stretches the Mall, once
the fashionable part of Hammersmith. It is
divided into the Upper and Lower Malls by a
narrow creek, which runs into the Thames from the
main road. Over this creek, and almost at its
conflux with the Thames, is a wooden foot-bridge,
known as the High Bridge, which was erected by
Bishop Sherlock in 1751. In this part of the
shores of the Thames almost every spot teems with
reminiscences of poets, men of letters, and artists :
let us therefore

" .Softly tread ; 'tis hallowed ground."

In fact, there is scarcely an acre on the Middlesex
shore which is not associated with the names of
Cowley, Pope, Gay, Collins, Thomson, and other
bards of song.

The " Doves " cofTee-house, just over the High
Bridge and at the commencement of the Upper
Mall, was one of the favourite resting-places of
James Thomson in his long walks between London

and his cottage at Richmond ; and, according to
the local tradition, it was here that he caught some
of his wintry aspirations when he was meditating his
poem on " The Seasons." " The ' Doves ' is still in
existence," says Mr. Robert Bell, in i860, "between
the Upper and Lower Malls, and is approachable
only by a narrow path winding through a cluster
of houses. A terrace at the back, upon which are
placed some tables, roofed over by trained lime-
trees, commands extensive views of two reaches
of the stream, and the opposite shore is so flat
and monotonous that the place aftbrds a favour-
able position for studying the chilliest and most
mournful, though perhaps not the most picturesque,
aspects of the winter season." On one of his
pedestrian journeys, Thomson, finding himself
fatigued and overheated on arriving at Hammer-
smith, imprudently took a boat to Kew, contrary
to his usual custom. The keen air of the river
produced a chill, which the walk up to his house
failed to remove, and the next day he was ill with
a " tertian " fever. He died a few days later,
within a fortnight of completing his forty-eighth
year.

Among the noted residents in the Lower Mall, in
the seventeenth century, was the ingenious and ver-
satile Sir Samuel Morland, of whom we have already
spoken in our account of Vauxhall.* Sir Samuel
came to live here in 1684. He was a great
practical mechanic, and the author of a variety of
useful inventions, including the speaking trumpet
and the drum capstan for raising heavy anchors.

" The Archbishop [Sancroft] and myselfe," writes
Evelyn, under date October 25, 1695, "went to
Hammersmith to visit Sir Samuel Morland, who
was entirely blind : a very mortifying sight. He
showed us his invention of writing, which was
very ingenious ; also his wooden kalender (sic),
which instructed him all by feeling; and other
pretty and useful inventions of mills, pumps, &c. ;
and the pump he had erected that serves water to
his garden and to passengers, with an inscription,
and brings from a filthy part of the Thames necre
it a most perfect and pure water. He had newly
buried ;^2oo worth of music-books six feet under
ground, being, as he said, love-songs and vanity.
He plays himself psalms and religious hymns on
the Theorbo."

Sir Samuel died here in 1696, and was buried
in the parish church. There is a print of him
after a painting by Sir Peter Lcly. Sir Edward
Nevill, a judge of the Common Pleas, purchased
Sir Samuel Morland's house, and came to reside

* ^ce ti,fiU, p. 44b.

Hammersmith.]

A MODERN WORKER OF MIRACLES.

545

in it in 1703. He died here two years after-
wards.

In the Upper Mall a few old-fashioned houses
of the better class are still standing, but their
aristocratic occupants have long since migrated
to more fashionable quarters. The Mall is in
parts shaded by tall elms, which afford by their
shade a pleasant promenade along the river-side.
These trees are not only some of the finest
specimens of their kind in the west of London,
but are objects of historic interest, having been
planted nearly two hundred years ago by Queen
Catharine, widow of Charles II., who resided here
for some years in the summer season ; her town
residence, during the reign of James II., as we
have already stated, was at Somerset House.*
She returned to Portugal in 1692.

In the reign of Queen Anne, the famous
physician. Dr. Radcliffe, whom we have already
mentioned in our account of Kensington Palace,
had a house here ; he intended to have converted
it into a public hospital, and the work was com-
menced, but was left unfinished at his death. Sir
Christopher Wintringham, physician to George III.,
lived for some time in the same house. In the
Upper Mall, too, resided William Lloyd, the non-
juring Bishop of Norwich. Another inhabitant
of the Mall was a German, named Weltje, who,
having made a fortune as one of the maitres de
cuisine at Carlton House, settled down here as
a gentleman, and kept open house, entertaining
many of those who had sat as guests at the tables
of royalty. He is repeatedly mentioned, in terms
of regard, by Mr. H. Angelo, in his agreeable
" Reminiscences." He was a great favourite with his
royal master. An alderman was dining one day at
Carlton House when the prince asked him whether
he did not think that there was a very strange
taste in the soup ? "I think there is, sir," replied
the alderman. " Send for Weltje," said the prince.
When he made his appearance the prince told
him why he had sent for him. Weltje called to
one of the pages, " Give me de spoon," and putting
it into the tureen, after tasting it several times,
said, " Boh, boh ! very goot ! " and immediately
disappeared from the room, leaving the spoon on
the table, much to the amusement of the heir
apparent. Among Weltje's visitors at Hammer-
smith were John Banister, the comedian; Rowland-
son, the caricaturist ; and a host of poets, actors,
painters, and musicians.

On the Terrace, which also overlooks the river,
at the farther end of the Mall, resided for many

See Vol. III., p. 92,

years Arthur Murphy, the dramatist, and witty
friend of Burke and Johnson. Here, too, lived
the painter and quack, Philip James Loutherbourg,
a native of Strasbourg, who came to England in
1771. He was employed by Garrick to paint the
scenes for Drury Lane Theatre, and in a few years
he obtained the full honours of the Royal Academy.
Whatever notoriety Loutherbourg may have lacked
as a painter was made up to him as a " quack ; "
for he had been caught by the strange empirical
mania at that time so prevalent all over Europe.
He became a physician, a visionary, a prophet,
and a charlatan. His treatment of the patients
who flocked to him was undoubtedly founded on
the practice of Mesmer ; though Horace Walpole
appears to draw a distinction between the curative
methods of the two doctors when he writes to the
Countess of Ossory, July, 1789: "Loutherbourg,
the painter, is turned an inspired physician, and
has three thousand patients. His sovereign
panacea is barley- water ; I believe it as efficacious
as mesmerism. Baron Swedenborg's disciples mul-
tiply also. I am glad of it. The more religions
and the more follies tlve better ; they in-\-eigle
proselytes from one another." A Mrs. Pratt, of
Portland Street, Marylebone, published, in 1789,
" A List of Cures performed by Mr. and Mrs.
Loutherbourg, of Hammersmith Terrace, without
Medicine. By a Lover of the Lamb of God." In
this pamphlet he is described as "a gentleman
of superior abilities, well known in the scientific
and polite assemblies for his brilliancy of talents
as a philosopher and painter," who, with his wife,
had been made proper recipients of the " divine
manuductions," and gifted with power " to diffuse
healing to the afflicted, whether deaf, dumb,
lame, halt, or blind." That the proceedings of
both the Loutherbourgs attracted extraordinary
attention is very certain. Crowds surrounded
the painter's house, so that it was with difficulty
he could go in and out. Particular days were
set apart and advertised in the newspapers as
" healing days," and a portion of the house was
given up as a " healing-room." Patients were "
admitted to the presence of the artist-physician
by tickets only, and to obtain possession of these
it is said that three thousand people were to be
seen waiting at one time. In the end, the failure
of one of Loutherbourg's pretended "miracles"
led to his house being besieged by a riotous mob,
and he was compelled to make his escape in the
best way he could. He, however, subsequently
returned to his old quarters at Hammersmith,
where he died in 181 2. He was buried in Chis-
wick Churchyard, near the grave of Hogarth.

546

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Hammersmilli.

Besides the personages we have mentioned
above, Hammersmith has numbered among its
residents many others who have risen to eminence;
among them William Belsham, the essayist and
historian, who here wrote the greater part of his
"History of Great Britain to the Peace of Amiens,"
and who died here i" 1827. Charles Burney, the
Greek scholar, who here kept a school for some
time, towards the close of the last century, until

I derived from him the tastes which have been
the solace of all subsequent years ; and I well
remember the last time I saw him at Hammer-
smith, not long before his death in 1859, when,
with his delicate, worn, but keenly-intellectual face,
his large luminous eyes, his thick shock of wiry
grey hair, and little cape of faded black silk over
his shoulders, he looked like an old French abbd
He was buoyant and pleasant as ever, and was

THE OLD "TACK HOKSE'' INN, TURNIIAM GREEN.

liis preferment to the vicarage of Deptford ; and
William Slieridan, Bishop of Kilmore, who was
deprived for refusing the oath of allegiance to
William 111., and who died in 171 1, and now
reposes in the parish church.

Leigh Hunt — who, if we may trust Mr. Blanche,
was not well off during his later years — lived here
in a small house, and spent, among friends and
books, the last few years of his life. Mr. Forster,
in his " Life of Dickens," thus mentions him : —
" Any kind of extravagance or oddity came from
Hunt's lips with a curious fascination. There was
surely never a man of so sunny a nature, who
could draw so much ])leasure from common tilings,
or to whom books were a world so real, so exliaust-
less, so delightful. I was only seventeen when

busy upon a vindication of Chaucer and Spenser
against Cardinal AViseman, who had attacked them
for alleged sensuous and voluptuous qualities."

Mr. Bayard Taylor, in a letter in the JVew York
Tribune, thus describes a visit which he paid here
in 1857 to Leigh Hunt: — "The old poet lives in
a neat little cottage in Hammersmith, quite alone,
since the recent death of his wife. That dainty
grace which is the chief charm of his poetry yet
lives in his jierson and manners. He is seventy-
three years old, but the effects of age are only
physical : they have not touched that buoyant
joyous nature which survives in spite of sorrow
and misfortune. His deep-set eyes still beam
with a soft, cheerful, earnest light; his voice is
gentle and musical j and his hair, although almost

548

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Hammersmith.

silver-white, falls in fine silky locks on both sides
of his face. It was grateful to me to press the
same palm which Keats and Shelley had so often
clasped in friendly warmth, and to hear him who
knew them so well speak of them as long-lost com-
panions. He has a curious collection of locks of
the hair of poets, from Milton to Browning. ' That
thin tuft of brown silky fibres, could it really have
been shorn from Milton's head?' I asked myself
' Touch it,' said Leigh Hunt, ' and then you will
have touched Milton's self.' ' There is a life in
hair, though it be dead,' said I, as I did so ; re-
peating a line from Hunt's own sonnet on this
lock. Shelley's hair was golden and very soft ;
Keats's a bright brown, curiing in large Bacchic
rings; Dr. Johnson's grey, with a harsh and wiry
feel ; Dean Swift's both brown and grey, but
finer, denoting a more sensitive organisation ; and
Charles Lamb's reddish-brown, short, and strong.
I was delighted to hear Hunt speak of poems
which he still designed to write, as if the age of
verse sliould never cease with one in whom the
faculty is born." We have mentioned Leigh Hunt's
death in our account of Putney.

At the western end of the town, a I'ttle to the
north of the Terrace, stands St. Peter's Church.
It is a substantial Grecian-Ionic structure, and
was erected in 1829, from the designs of Mr.
Edward Lapidge ; the total cost, including the
expense of enclosing the ground, amounted to
about ;^i 2,000.

In the good old days when almost every village
had its mountebank, there was one at Hammer-
smith— a " public-spirited artist," immortalized by
Addison in the Spectator for having announced
before his own people that he would give five
shillings as a present to as many as would accept
it. " The whole crowd stood agape and ready
to take the fellow at his word ; when putting his
hand into his bag, while all were e.xpecting their
crown pieces, he drew out a handful of little packets,
each of which, he said, was constantly sold at five
shillings and si.xpence, and that he would bate tlie
odd five shillings to every real inhabitant of that
place. The whole assembly closed with the
generous offer and took off all his phy.sic, after
tiie doctor had made them vouch for one another
that there were no foreigners among them, but
that they were all Hammersmith men ! ' " Alas ! "
remarks Charles Knight, " who could find a
mountebank at Hammersmith now ? "

In the year 1804 the inhabitants of this locality
were much alarmed by a nocturnal appearance,
which for a considerable time eluded detection

or discovery, and which became notorious" as the
Hammersmith Ghost. In January of the above
year, some unknown person made it his diversion
to alarm the inhabitants by assuming the figure of
a spectre ; and the report of its appearance had
created so much alarm that few would venture out
of their houses after dusk, unless upon urgent
business. This sham ghost had certainly much
to answer for. One poor woman, while crossing
near the churchyard about ten o'clock at night,
beheld something, as she described it, rise from the
tombstones. The figure was very tall and very
white ! She attempted to run, but the supposed
ghost soon overtook her ; and pressing her in his
arms, she fainted, in which situation she remained
some hours, till discovered by the neighbours, who
kindly led her home, when she took to her bed,
and died two days afterwards. A waggoner, while
driving a team of eight horses, conveying sixteen
passengers, was also so alarmed that he took
to his heels, and left the waggon, horses, and
passengers in the greatest danger. Faulkner tells
us, in his " History of Hammersmith," that neither
man, woman, nor child could pass that way for
some time ; and the report was that it was " the
apparition of a man who cut his throat in the
neighbourhood " about a year previously. Several
lay in wait on different nights for the ghost ; but
there were so many by-lanes and paths leading to
Hammersmith, that he was always sure of being
in that which was unguarded, and e\-ery night
played off his tricks, to the terror of the passengers.
A young man, however, who had more courage than
the rest of his neighbours, determined to watch
the proceedings of this visitant of the other world ;
he accordingly placed himself in a secluded spot,
armed with a gun, and as near the spot as jjossible
where the "ghost" had been seen. He had not
remained long in his hiding-place when he heard
the sound of footsteps advancing, and immediately
challenged the supposed spirit ; but not receiving
any answer, he fired at the object. A deep groan
was heard, and upon a light being procured it wa.s
discovered that a poor bricklayer, who was passmg
that way from his work on that evening rather
later than usual, and who had on a new flannel
jacket, was the innocent cause of this unfortunate
occurrence. The young man was trietl for murder
and acquitted.

The " Wonderful Magazine," published soon
after the ajipearance of the mysterious visitor,
contains an engraving of the " ghost," in which
the "spectre" appears with ujjliftcd arms and
enveloped in a sheet.

Chii,

THE PEST HOUSE FOR WESTMINSTER SCHOOI,.

S40

CHAPTER XL.

CHISWICK.

*' Et terram Hesperiam vtnies, ubi Thamesis arva
Inter opima viruni leni fluit agmine." — Virgit^ ".-£«.," ii.

Earliest Historical Records of Chiswick — Sutton Manor — Chiswick Eyot — The Parish Church — Hol'and, the Actor — Ugo Foscolo — De
Loutherbourg — Kent, the Father of Modern Gardening —Sharp, the Engraver — Lady Thornhill — Hogarth's Monument — A Curious
Inscription — Extracts from the Churchwardens' Books — Hogarth's House — Hogarth's Chair — The "Griffin" Brewery — Chiswick Mall —
The "Red Lion "—The "White Bear and Whetstone "—The College House— Whittingham's Printing-press— Barbara, Duchess of Cleve-
land— Dr. Rose and Dr. Ralph — Edward Moore, the Journalist— Ale.vander Pope's Residence —Th'; Old Manor House -Turnham
Green— Encampment of the Parliamentarians during the Civil Wars— The Old " Pack Horse " Inn— Tnc Chiswick Nursery— Chiswick
House- Description of the Gardens— The Pictures and Articles of /Vr/«— Royal Visits— Death of Charles James Fox and George
Canning— Garden Parties — Corney House— Sir Stephen Fo.\'s House— The Gardens of the Royal Horticultural Society.

It is curious to note how the gradual — or, we
might perhaps say, rapid — extension of the metro-
poUs is affecting the once out-lying towns and
villages in its immediate vicinity on both sides
of the river. Many places, indeed, as we have
already seen, such as Paddington and Baysvvater,
Stoke Newington and Hackney, Clapham and
Camberwell, have already become entirely absorbed
into the gigantic city ; whilst others are so rapidly
increasing in size that they, too, will soon lose all
signs of a separate existence. Chiswick, which
lies on the bend of the river between Turnham
Green and Brentford, still retains many of its rural
charms, although their effacement by the hand of
the builder may be perhaps but the work of a few
years. To a certain extent, however, this progress
is apparent even so far west as Chiswick, which
we design to form the liriiit of our journeyings in
this direction.

Chiswick is not found in Doomsday-Book, but it
is mentioned in the various records of Henry HI.
by the name of "Chesewicke." According to
the Saxon Chronicle, a battle was fought between
Chiswick and Turnham Green between Edmund
Ironside and the Danes, who were bent on
attacking London, approaching it by the Roman
road across the " Back Common," as it is now
called, but which was the only entrance to the
metropolis from the west, the present western road
dating no farther back than about the eighteenth,
or perhaps the close of the seventeenth century.
A presumed proof of the antiquity of this road
across the "Back Common" is to be found in the
urn containing Roman coins dug up in situ in
the year 1731, concerning which discovery we
shall have more to say presently. With this single
fact we must be content with regard to the early
history of Chiswick, till we come to the reign of
Henry II., when the Doomsday-Book of St. Paul's,
in an Inquisition into the manor and churches
belonging to the metropolitan cathedral, alludes
to the "status Ecclesiae de Sutton "^Sutton, /.<•.,
South Town, being the popular name for that part

of Chiswick which lay between Turnham Green
and the river Thames.

In this document we find an account of the glebe,
titles, and pension payable to the vicar ; and it is
worthy of note that now, after the lapse of nearly
seven hundred years, there is still paid to the
vicar by the Chapter of St. Paul's a " pension " of
thirteen shillings annually, and another of two
shillings to the chapter by the vicar. From
another inquisition, dated 1222, we learn that the
then " Firmarius " of the Manor had made a
collection of Peter's pence ; but, it is added,
" sibi retinet," he keeps it for himself If this
" Firmarius " was, as is suspected, a member of
the Chapter of London, his act was a " robbing of
Peter to pay Paul," and possibly may have given
rise to the saying.

The same source of information tells us that at
"Sutton" there was a "parva capella" attached
to the manor-house ; and as the population in
this part has very much increased of late years, a
new church has been erected recently, almost on
the site of the former fabric.

In 1570, Gabriel Goodman, Prebendary of St.
Paul's, becoming Dean of Westminster, "diverted"
the manor of Chiswick from the cathedral to the
abbey. It was perhaps in consequence of the
new tie thus springing up that a " Pest House "
was built on Chiswick Mall for the use of the
Westminster scholars. It was a plain and sub-
stantial building, comprising a house, dormitory,
and school ; and it is a matter of history that
during the time of the great plague the school
or " College of St. Peter's " at Westminster was
carried on at Chiswick by Dr. Busby without in-
terruption to the regular studies. The Pest House
was pulled down only a few years ago, and its site
is now covered by modern villas. During the de-
molition of this building it was discovered that
some of its walls were as old as the thirteenth
centur)'. But we are anticipating.

If Chiswick is approached by way of the Thames,
but little of it is seen, as it lies opposite a small

55°

OLD AND KEW LONDON.

[ChiswicV,

island of osiers — called Chiswick Ait or Eyot —
which nearly hides it from public view. Thus the
steamers rather avoid the place, and all that can
be seen of it is perhaps the spire of the old church
and one or two of the pleasant houses in the Mall,
which runs along the river's bank, almost a con-
tinuation of that of Hammersmith, mentioned in
the preceding chapter. The visitor to Chiswick,
approaching by land, may find it rather an out-of-
the-way place. It is true that part of it. Turn-
ham Green, on the north side, lies on the high
road at the western end of Hammersmith, but
Chiswick proper lies off the high road and nearer
the river, and it is only by walking that one can
get at the place ; but the walk thither will be well
repaid for the trouble taken in accomplishing it.
Whatever alterations may pass over this once pretty
village, it will always be a spot that the student of
English history and English manners will regard
with a fair amount of interest, for the sake of
several men of mark who have lived or died in its
neighbourhood.

The parish church stands near the river, and
is dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron saint of
fishermen, who, at the time of its erection, as now,
formed the majority of the parishioners. The new
church, erected in 1884 by the liberality of one of
the churchwardens of the parish, is a noble repro-
duction, by Mr. J. L. Pearson, of a late Decorated
or Early Perpendicular structure. The cost of it
was ;!^25,ooo ; the tower of the original church,
and the north wall of the chancel (rebuilt by the
Duke of Devonshire), are all that remain of the
former edifice. The late structure, though adorned
with a handsome tower, was disfigured by a fair
share of the deformities of the architecture of the
eighteenth century, and in other respects was quite
in harmony with its sister edifices which grace — or
disgrace — the valley of the Thames between
I-ondon and Windsor. It consisted originally of
only a nave and chancel, and was built about the
beginning of the fifteenth century, at which time
the tower was erected at the charge and cost of
William Bordal, vicar of the parish, who died in
1435. '^'^6 tower is built of stone and flint, as
was originally the north wall of the church. Some
aisles or transepts of brick, in the hideous style of
the Georgian era, stood on either side, one of them
bearing the ominous date of 1772, and the other of
1 81 7. These excrescences were first erected in
the .shape of transepts ; but as the population
increased, and more space was needed, they were
extended westward. The inside of the nave was a
most barn-like structure, with a modern ceiling,
which had replaced the original open timber roof.

Taking a general view of the interior of the
church, it may be said that, with the exception
of Bath Abbey, there never was a sacred edifice
whose walls were more hideously disfigured with
"pedimental blotches," in the shape of marble
mural monuments. These were of every date, from
the fine classical piece of sculpture which com-
memorates one of the Chaloners of Elizabeth's
reign — Sir Thomas Ciialoner, a distinguished
chemist, in the boldest possible relief, and the
more modest and retiring tablet which, adorned
with a pile of Bibles on either side, recorded the
virtues of the wife of Dr. Walker, a Puritan
minister during the Commonwealth, who signalised
his incumbency by substituting the " Directory" for
the Prayer-book — down to the present century.
Most of these monuments have been now confined
to the aisle which contains the organ ; and the
rest are disposed in and near the tower. Among
them there are monuments of almost every con-
ceivable design, and to such a cloud of peers and
peeresses and honourables as ought to gladden the
heart of " Garter " or " Ulster " himself There
is one to a Duchess of Somerset ; another
to one of the Burlingtons ; three or four to
the relatives of Sir Robert Walpole, all titled indi-
viduals ; and another, very handsome of its kind,
to one of Nature's gentlemen, Thomas Bentley,
the able and public-spirited partner of Josiah
Wedgwood, who resided in the parish, and whose
virtues it commemorates. Bentley lived in a
large and substantial mansion in the high road
leading from Hammersmith to Turnham Green,
now (or lately) occupied by Mr. Vaughan Morgan.
The bas-reliefs, of which he speaks so often in his
correspondence with Wedgwood, still grace the
walls of the house, which (if we except a few
additions) is much in the same state as when owned
by Bentley.

Garrick erected the monument in the chancel
to his friend Cliarles Holland, the actor, who died
at Chiswick House ; and he also wrote the inscrip-
tion. Charles Holland was the son of John Holland,
a baker of Chiswick, where he was baptised April
3'<^'i '733- He was apprenticed to a turpentine
merchant ; but strongly imbued with a predilection
for the stage, and praised for the display of that
talent in his private circle, he a[)plied to Garrick,
who gave him good encouragement, but advised him
"punctually to fulfil his engagement with his master,
and should he then find his passion for the theatre
unabated, to apply to him again." This advice he
followed ; and under Garrick's auspices made his
debut at Drury Lane Theatre, in 1754, in the part
of Oronooko. He distinguished himself principally

ChUwick.]

UGO FOSCOLO.

551

in the characters of Richard III., Hamtit, Pierre,
Tinner in "Zingis," and Mauley in "The Plain
Dealer." Holland was a zealous admirer and
follower of Garrick ; and, as a player, continued to
advance in reputation. His last performance was
the part of Prospero, in Shakespeare's " Tempest,"
November 20th, 1769 ; and he died of the small-
pox on December 7th following. His body
was deposited in the family vault in Chiswick
churchyard on the 15th of the same month ; and
his funeral was attended by most of the performers
belonging to Drury Lane Theatre.

In the church, in the north wall of the chancel
is raised a marble monument, on which is engraved
the following inscription, in a circular compart-
ment, surmounted by an admirable bust : —

"If Talents to make entertainment instruction, to support
the credit of the .Stage by just and manly Action ; If to
adorn Society by Virtues which would lionour any Rank
and Profession, deserve remembrance : Let Hint with wliom
these Talents were long e.xerted, To whom these Virtues
were well known, And by whom the loss of them will be
long lamented, bear Testimony to the Worth and Abilities
of his departed friend Charles Holland, who was born
March 12th, 1733, dy'd December 7th, 1769, and was
buried near this place. D. Garrick."

A view of Holland's monument is given in Smith's
" Historical and Literary Curiosities."

Among the other parishioners buried in the church
are several members of an old Berkshire family,
the Barkers, whose name is still kept in memory
by " Barker's Rails," opposite Mortlake : a place
well known to all oarsmen as the goal of the
University boat-races.

The tower contains a peal of five bells. The
curfew was rung every evening at Chiswick as
recently as thirty years ago, when it was discon-
tinued through the parsimony of the parishioners.
The vestrymen of Chiswick appear to have shown
either extreme precaution or else extremely aristo-
cratic tendencies; for in 181 7 (as we are told by
a tablet on the wall of the church) they passed
a resolution that henceforth no corpse should be
interred in the vaults beneath the church unless
buried in lead.

Chiswick churchyard holds the ashes of more
than a fair sprinkling of those whose names have
been inscribed on the roll of the Muses, or have
achieved or inherited names illustrious in history.
Space will permit us to speak of only a few. Here,
then, lies the third daughter of the Protector,
Oliver Cromwell, Mary, Countess of Fauconberg.
She was married at Hampton Court in 1657, and
resided at Sutton Court. In person, as we learn
from Noble's " Memoirs of the Cromwells," she
is said to have been handsome, and yet to have

resembled her father. In the decline of her life
she grew sickly and pale, and after seeing all the
hopes of her family cut off by her father's death,
she is said to have exerted such influence as
she possessed for the restoration of Monarchy.
She bore the character of a pious and virtuous
woman, and constantly attended divine service in
Chiswick Church to the day of her death.

Here, too, were buried Lord Macartney, our
Ambassador to China, and Ugo Foscolo, the
Italian patriot. The tomb of the latter, restored
and surmounted by a fine block of Cornish granite
in 1 86 1, at the expense of Mr. Gurney, was visited,
during his stay in England, by Garibaldi, who made
a pilgrimage to it, in company with M. Panizzi, at
an hour when few of the good jjeople of Chiswick
were out of their beds. After reposing here for
nearly half a century, the body of Ugo Foscolo was
disinterred and conveyed to his native country, as
is duly recorded by a recent inscription on the
tomb, which is as follows : —

UGO FOSCOLO.
Died Sep. 10, 1827, aged 50.
From the sacred guardianship of Chiswick,
To the honours of Santa Croce, in Florence,
The Government and People of Italy have transported
The remains of the wearied Citizen Poet,
7th June, 1871.
This spot, where for 44 years the Relics of Ugo FoscoLO
Reposed in honoured Custody,
Will be for ever held in grateful Remembrance
By the Italian Nation.

Ugo Foscolo's was one of the few great names
in Italian literature in the present centur)-. He
was a native of Zante, of Venetian extraction, and
was educated at Padua. After some adventures
in the army, he devoted himself to literature, and
was remarkable for the terseness and polish of hiS'
Italian style. He had studied the finest and best
writers of Greece and Italy down to those of the
Middle Ages inclusively. Admiring Alfieri beyond
all others, he imitated him in keeping as close as
possible to the severe style of Dante. Coming
to England with good introductions, he might
have supported himself in comfort, had it not been
for his irritable temper, which was rendered worse
by pecuniary losses. He obtained the entree of
Holland House, but took a great dislike to its
mistress, saying that " he should be sorry to go
even to heaven with Lady Holland." He lived in
lodgings in Wigmore Street, made the acquaintance
of Rogers, Campbell, and the rest of the literary
clique, and contributed to the Quarterly and other
periodicals. He was also the author of " Fieste,"
"Ajax," "Ricciardo," "The Sepulchres," "The
Letters of Ortis," the " Essay on Petrarch," and

5S2

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Ctiiswick.

of many other works, the merits of which can be
appreciated only by ItaHan scholars. He died in
1827. In the year 1871, as stated above, his
remains were disinterred and carried over to his
beloved Italy. Peace to his ashes ! In spite of
his rudeness to Lady Holland, he was in many
ways one of " Nature's true nobility."

Another noted individual who reposes here is
Miles Corbet, the regicide, who died at the age

took lodgings in Chiswick, during his brief stay in
England, in order to be near him ; and there is
recorded in Faulkner's " Chelsea " an anecdote of
another visitor of very opposite principles, Dr.
Samuel Johnson, who, as we learn from Boswell,
often came to Chiswick. One day, being invited
by his host to take a stroll as far as Kew Gardens,
at that time in the possession, if not in the actual
occupation, of Frederick, Prince of Wales, and

OLD COTIAGES ON BACK COMMON, CHISWICK.

of eighty-three. Then there is Barbara Villiers,
Duchess of Cleveland, fliirest and gayest of the
fair but frail beauties of the Court of the second
Charles : this lady was the daughter of William,
Viscount Grandison, and wife of Roger Palmer,
Earl of Castlemainc, one of the Palmers of Wing-
ham, Kent, and of Dorney Court, Bucks.

De Loutherbourg, the artist and magnetiser, of
whom we have spoken in the preceding chapter ; *
and Dr. William Rose, critic and journalist, the
translator of Salkist, and " a constant writer in the
Monthly Review" both lie buried here. Among
Dr. Rose's visitors, it appears, were many, if not
most, of the literati of the day. J. J. Rousseau

See ante, D. 545.

subsequently of the Princess Dowager and family,
he replied to Rose, "No, sir, I will never walk
in the gardens of an usurper : " a tolerably con
vincing illustration, if one be needed, of the great
lexicographer's Jacobite partialities being still
unabated at a time when the crashing defeat of
Culloden was still rankling in the minds and
memories of all adherents of the exiled family.

Another distinguished man whose remains are
interred here was Dr. Andrew Duck, an eminent
civilian, who died at Chiswick in 1649. ^^^ was
some time Chancellor of the diocese of Bath and
Wells, and afterwards Chancellor of London, and
subsequently Master of the Court of Requests.
In 1640 he was elected member for Minehead in
Somersetshire, and when the Civil War broke out

Chiswick.]

CHISWICK CHURCHYARD.

he became a great sufferer for the royal cause.
Among other works, Dr. Duck was the author of a
book entitled " De Usu et Auctoritate Juris Civilis
Romanorum."

Kent, the father of modem gardening, lies buried
in the vault of the Cavendishes. He was the
Paxton of the last century. Horace Walpole says
of him, " As a painter, he was below mediocrity ;
as an architect, he was the restorer of the science ;

553

And realised his landscapes. Generous he
Who gave to Painting what the wayward nymph
Refus'd her votary, those Elysian scenes
Which would she emulate, her nicest hand
Must all its force of light and shade employ."

Kent, as may be judged from the above estimates,
though a second-rate painter, and a moderate archi-
tect, was at the same time an admirable landscape
gardener.

as a gardener he was thoroughly original, and the
inventor of an art which realises painting, and
improves nature. Mahomet imagined an elysium,
but Kent created many." He frequently declared
that he caught his taste for landscape gardening
from reading the picturesque descriptions of the
poet Spenser. Mason, who notices his mediocrity
as a painter, pays the following tribute to his
excellence in the decoration of rural scenery : —

"He felt
The pencil's power ; but fir'd by higher forms
Of beauty than that poet knew to paint,
Work'd with the living hues that Nature lent,
.287

Another worthy who
reposes here is William
Sharp, well-known in his
day as a line-engraver, to
whom we are indebted

for the reproduction of Sir Joshua Reynolds's por-
trait of John Hunter, considered to be one of the
finest prints in existence. Bom in the Minories
in the year 1749, and early trained in copying by
his art the works of the old masters, he would in
due time have proved himself a first-rate artist, had
he not devoted the best years of his life to the
delusions and imposture of Joanna Southcott and

554

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Cliibwick.

the "prophet" Brothers,* whose portrait he en-
graved in dupUcate, in the full belief that when
the New Jerusalem arrived a single plate would
not suffice to satisfy the demand for impressions !
At the foot of each plate he added the words,
" Fully believing this to be the man appointed by
God, I engrave his likeness. — W. Sharp." It is
only fair to add that he maintained his belief
in these delusions down to his very last hour.
Besides the portraits above mentioned. Sharp's
principal works include, "The Doctors of the
Church," after Guido ; the " Head of the Saviour
crowned with Thorns," after Guido ; and " St.
Cecilia," after Domenichino. He also engraved
the "Three Views of the Head of Charles L,"
after Vandyck ; " The Sortie made by the Garrison
of Gibraltar," after TurnbuU ; and the " Siege and
Relief of Gibraltar," after Copley. The plate of
the " Three Maries," after Annibal Carracci, was
left unfinished at the time of his decease, which
took place at Chiswick in 1824. A portrait of
Sharp painted by Longdale was exhibited at the
Royal Academy in 1823, and was purchased by
the trustees of the National Portrait Gallery.

There are also buried here Judith, Lady Thorn-
hiil, the widow of Sir James Thornhill, the painter
of the ceilings of Blenheim and Greenwich, t and of
the dome of St. Paul's ; her daughter, married to
the immortal Hogarth ; a sister of Hogarth ; and
last, not least, the great caricaturist himself, William
Hogarth, to whose memory a large and conspicuous
monument, erected by Garrick, stands in the church-
yard, on the south side of the church, surmounted
with a brazen flame like that on the top of the
Monument at London Bridge. The inscription
on the tomb is as follows : — " Here lieth the body
of William Hogarth, Esq., who died October the
26th, 1764, aged 67 years. Mrs. Jane Hogarth,
wife of William Hogarth, Esq., obiit the 13th of
November, 1789, jetat. 80 years.

"Farewell, great Painter of mankind,
Who reached the noblest point of art,
Whose pictured morals charm the mind,
And through the eye correct the heart .

" If genius fre thee, Reader, stay ;
If Nature touch thee, drop a tear ;
If neither move thee, turn away.

For Hogarth's honoured dust lies here.

" D. G.\RRICK."

The inscription was written by Garrick himself
The monument is adorned also with a mask, a
laurel-wreath, a palette, pencils, and a book in-
scribed " The Analysis of Beauty."

Dr. C. Mackay, in his interesting volume entitled

• Sec Vol. v., pp. 3 J 3, 351.

t Sec anU, p. 180.

" The Thames and its Tributaries," from which
we have frequently quoted during the progress of
this work, criticises the inscription on Hogarth's
tomb in rather severe terms, remarking that " the
object of an epitaph is merely to inform the
reader of the great or good man who rests below,"
and that, consequently, " there is no necessity for
the word of leave-taking." He adds, however,
that " The thought in the last stanza is much
better ; and were it not for the unreasonable
request that we should weep over the spot, would
be perfect in its way. Men cannot weep that
their predecessors have lived. We may sigh that
neither virtue nor genius can escape the common
lot of humanity, but no more ; we cannot weep.
Admiration claims no such homage ; and, if it
did, we could not pay it."

" Dr. Johnson," writes Mrs. Piozzi, " made four
lines on the death of poor Hogarth, which were
equally true and pleasing ; I know not why Gar-
rick's were preferred to them." Johnson's stanzas
were, it seems, only an alteration of those written
by Garrick, as will be seen from the following
letter which appears in Boswell's " Life " of the
great doctor, as addressed by him to the great
actor at the time when the inscription was in
contemplation :—

" Sh-cat/iam, Dec. 12, 1771.

"Dkar Sir, — I have thought upon your epitaph, Imt
without much effect. An epitaph is no easy thing.

"Of your three stanzas, the third is utterly unworthy of
you. The first and third together give no discriminative
character. If the first alone were to stand, Hogarth Mould
not be distinguished from any other man of intellectual
eminence. Suppose you worked upon something like this ;

" The hand of Art here torpid lies

That tr.aced the essential form of Grace :
Here Death has closed the curious eyes
That saw the manners in the face.

" If Genius warm thee, Reader, stay,
If merit touch thee, shed a tear ;
Be Vice and IJulness far away !

Great Hogarth's honour'd dust is here.

" In your second stanza, pictured morals is a bc.Tutiful
expression, which I would wish to retain ; but leant and
mourn cannot stand for rliymes. Art and nature have been
seen together too often. In the first stanza is feeling, in the
second feel. Feeling for taiderness or sensibility is a word
merely colloquial, of late introduction, not yet sure enough
of its own existence to claim a place upon a stone. 7/ thou
has' neither is quite prose, and prose of the familiar kind.
Thus easy is it to find faults, but it is hard to make an
epitaph.

" When you have reviewed it, let me see it again ; you
are welcome to any help that I can give, on condition tliat
you make my compliments to Mrs. Garrick.

" I am, dear Sir, your most, &c.,

" Sam. Johnson."

Clliswi.-.1<.1

EXTRACTS FROM THE CHURCHWARDENS' ACCOUNTS.

555

Hogarth died on October 26th, 1764. The
very day before he died he was removed from
his villa at Chiswick to Leicester Fields,* we are
told, " in a very weak condition, yet remarkably
cheerful." To Hogarth's tomb is appended a
short notice to the eftect that it was restored, in
1856, by a Mr. William Hogarth of Aberdeen,
who, no doubt, was glad to give this proof of his
connection with so distinguished a personage.

Gary, the translator of Dante, resided at Chis-
wick in Hogarth's house, and lies buried in the
churchyard close under the south wall of the chancel.
His monument was a few years ago rescued from
oblivion, and restored at the expense of the vicar,
who carefully inclosed it with iron railings.

It would appear from the parish books also, that
Joseph Miller, of facetious memory, and who was
a comic actor of considerable merit, lies buried
here. He was for many years an inhabitant of
Strand-on-the-Green, in this parish, where he died
at his own house, according to the Craftsman, on
the 19th of August, 1738. But it is always said
that he was buried in St. Clement Danes.t Near
him sleeps James Ralph, well known as a political
writer, and a friend of Franklin. He published
some poems ridiculed by Pope in the " Dunciad."

" Silence, ye wolves ; while RalpVi to Cyntliia howls,
Making night hideous, answer him ye owls. "

If his poems were not good, at all events his
political tracts showed great ability, and he was
in high favour with Frederick, Prince of Wales.

It is worthy of remark that the church and
churchyard cover the remains of a considerable
number of Roman Catholics, including, among
many members of old English and Irish families,
some of the Towneleys of Towneley, Mr. Chideock
Wardour, &c. The Towneleys, we may add, owned
a house in the village on the site of the former
residence of the Earls of Bedford. In 1838, and
again in 1871, the churchyard was enlarged by
the addition of ground at its western extremity,
the gifts of successive Dukes of Devonshire, as
parishioners.

On the outside of the wall of the churchyard,
on the north-east, facing the street, is the following
curious inscription, which is of interest as showing
the sacredness of consecrated ground two centuries
ago. It takes much the same view as that expressed
at such length by Sir Henry Spelman in his book,
" De non temerandis Ecclesiis : " — " This wall was
made at y° charges of y' right honourable and
truelie pious Lorde Francis Russell, Earle of Bed-
ford, out of true zeale and care for y" keeping of

* See Vol. III., p. 167.

t See Vol. III., p. 30.

this church yard and y' wardrobe of Godd's saints,
whose bodies lay {sic) therein buryed, from violating
by swine and other prophanation. So witnesseth
AVilliam Walker, V. a.d. 1623." Beneath this,
inscription is a tablet setting forth that the wall
was rebuilt in 1831.

The churchwardens' books, commencing with
the year 1621, contain a variety of curious and in-
teresting entries. " Our dinner, when we went to
take our oathes," is a constantly recurring item;
so frequent, indeed, and occasionally so costly,
that on one occasion the good vicar was scan-
dalised, and adds a foot-note, " Here they eat too
much." Another frequent item is that of " Boat-
hier " (hire), for parochial excursions ; in one place
we read of " Boat-hier for to take the children
to Fulham to be Bishoped," i.e. confirmed. We
find also frequently large fees paid " for the buryall
of creeples ; " and in 1665-6 the books contain,
inter alia, an account of the Great Plague, and
of the sanitary measures adopted by the parish.
Among other curious precautions, it should be
mentioned that a resolution was passed by the
parish that all loose and stray dogs and cats are to
be killed for fear of conveying the infection, and
that the poor bedesmen are to nurse " the patients
ill with the plague."

Then there are sundry entries concerning
" plague-water," a supposed antidote to the plague,
but which does not appear to have proved an
infallible elixir, for in more than one instance we
read an entry of " plague-water " for A or B, when
the next page has a charge for carrying the said A
or B to church. Other sums are charged as paid to
" maimed soldiers," " Tory ministers," " plundered
persons," and " the widow Steevens in her distrac-
tion." In 1643 occurs a charge " for sweeping the
church after the soldiers," i.e. after it had been
occupied by the London "Train Bands," who
were quartered within its walls, and took part in
the batde fought on Tumham Green between
Prince Rupert and the Parliamentary forces. The
records of fast-days, and of revels, feasts, bell-
ringings, and tar-barrels on festive occasions paid
out of the church rates— ^.^., for " the victory over
the Dutch" — show that Chiswick took an active part
in the politics of the age. The books during the
first half of the last century contain several curious
entries of rewards paid to the beadles for driving
away out of the parish sundry poor women, who
came into its aristocratic precincts in a condition
which showed that they were likely to add to the
population, and so to entail charges on the parish-
ioners. To account for the disappearance of all
earlier registers, it is said, but upon what authority

S5C

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[OiiswicTc

we know not, that when the Protector quartered
his troops in the church, he and his soldiers tore
up those documents to light the fires, and for
other and vOer purposes. We may add that
although there is a tradition that Lady Fauconberg
got possession of her father's body at the Restora-
tion, and deposited it carefully here ; and although
Miss Strickland, in one of her biographies, mentions
a report that the real child of James IL died of
"spotted fever," and was buried at Chiswick, no
traces of any entry of such burials are to be found
in the parish records.

But Chiswick has been remarkable for other
celebrated persons who have lived in it. Amongst
those of whom we have not already spoken, except-
ing with reference to their graves in the churchyard,
may be mentioned Sir Stephen Fox, the friend of
Evelyn, who occupied the Manor House, now the
asylum kept by Dr. Tuke ; Dr. Busby, of scholastic
fame ; Pope, who resided for a time in Maw-
son's Buildings (now Mawson Row); the notorious
Barbara, Duchess of Cleveland; Lord Fauconberg,
the Protector's son-in-law; the Pastons, ancient
Earls of Yarmouth ; Sir John Chardin, the tra-
veller ; Lord Heathfield, the defender of Gibraltar ;
Lord Macartney, our Ambassador in China ;
Hogarth, Zoffany, and Loutherbourg, the painters ;
Holland, the actor, and friend of Garrick ; Dr.
Rose, the translator of Sallust ; Carey, the translator
of Dante ; Sharp, the engraver ; and Carpue, the
anatomist. Thomas Wood, another resident of
Chiswick, was immortalised by an epigram, written
in Evelyn's " Book of Coins " by Pope's own
hand : —

" Tom Wood of Chiswick, deep divine,
To painter Kent gave all this coin.
'Tis the first coin, I'm bold to say.
That ever churchman gave to lay."

The above lines were communicated to JVofes
and Queries, March 15th, 185 1, by the Rev. R.
Hotchkin, rector of Thimbleby, from a copy once
in the possession of Mason, the poet.

At a short distance north-west of the church,
in a narrow and dirty lane leading towards one
entrance to the grounds of Ciiiswick House, still
stands the red-bricked house which was once
occupied by Hogarth, and still bears his name.
The house is very narrow from front to back ; one
end abuts on the road ; but the front of it, which
apparently is in much the same condition now
as when Hogarth lived, looks into a closed and
high-walled garden of about a quarter of an acre,
in whicli a prominent object is a fine mulberry-tree
planted by the painter's own hand. At the bottom
of the garden stood till recently the workshop in

which he used to ply his art, secluded and alone.
Hard by against the wall were formerly memorials
in stone to his favourite dog, cat, and bullfinch.
That over the dog was inscribed—

" Life to the last enjoyed, here Pompey lies,"
and on that of the bird was "Alas! poor Dick;"
the memorial over the grave of the cat disappeared
many years ago. These two memorials remained
upon the grounds till a few years since, it
being in the agreement when the house was
let that they should not be disturbed ; their
position, however, had long been changed. For
some time they were covered over with concrete,
to serve as the flooring of a pigsty ; but in the end
they were carried away, and the bones of Hogarth's
" pets " were disinterred. Hogarth's residence is
now a private dwelling-house, and the garden is
tenanted by a florist. Two leaden urns which
adorn the entrance to tlie house were the gift of
David Garrick to his friend.

Mr. Tom Taylor thus describes Hogarth's house,
as it was in i860 : — "His house still stands, but
sadly degraded within the last few years. It is a
snug red-brick villa of the Queen Anne style, with
a garden before it of about a quarter of an acre.
An old mulberry is the only tree in the neglected
garden that may have borne fruit for Hogarth.
There is down-stairs a good panelled sitting-rcom
with three windows, a small panelled hall, and a
kitchen built on to the house; above, two storeys of
three rooms each, with attics over. The principal
room on the first floor has a projecting bay-window
of three lights, quite in the style of Hogarth's time,
and was no doubt added by hmi. The painting-
room was over the stable at the bottom of the
garden. Stable and room have fiillen down, but
parts of the walls are still standing. The tablets to
the memory of pet birds and dogs, formerly let into
the garden wall, have disappeared."

It was here that Hogarth spent the summers of
his later life, enjoying the fresh air, and the green
fields, which in his time were more extensive
than they are now, although Chiswick has been
less over-built than most of the London suburbs,
and still retains much of its old-world character.
Besides his favourite amusement of riding, the artist
used to occupy himself in painting and in super-
intending the engravers whom he often invited
down from London. And to his Chiswick cottage
he came, after his bitter quarrel with Wilkes and
Churchill, bringing some plates for re-touching. He
was cheerful, but weak, and must have felt that
his end was not far oft', when in February, 1764,
he put the last touches to his " Bathos." His
prints now filled a large volume ; and as the story

ChiBwick 1

HOGARTH'S HOUSE.

557

goes, at one of the last dinners which he gave he
was talking of a final addition to them.

Hogartii was then not in the best of health, and
in reply to one of his guests as to what his next
picture was to be, he remarked, " My next under-
taking shall be the end of all things." " If that is
the case," said one of the party, "your business
will be finished, for there will be an end of the
painter." "You say true," said Hogarth, with a
sigh ; however, he began his design the next day,
and worked at it till it was finished. A strange
and yet impressive grouping of objects have we
there — a broken bottle, an old broom worn to the
stump, the butt-end of an old musket, a cracked
bell, a bow unstrung, an empty purse, a crown
tumbled to pieces, towers in ruins, the sign-post of
a tavern called the " World's End," the moon in
her wane, the map of the globe burning, a gibbet
falling and the body dropping down, Phcebus and
his horses dead in the clouds, a vessel wrecked.
Time with his hour-glass and scythe broken, a
tobacco-pipe in his mouth with the last whiff of
smoke going out, a play-book opened with Exeunt
Omncs stamped in the corner. " So far so good,"
cried Hogarth ; " nothing now remains but this,"
as he dashed into the picture a broken palette ;
it was his last performance.

Passing on a few steps farther, we come to a
plain house, in the garden of which stands Ho-
garth's portable sun-dial, duly authenticated. In
the same house Hogarth's arm-chair, made of
cherrywood, and seated with leather. The latter
is much decayed, and one of the arms is worm-
eaten, but the rest is sound and good.

This chair, in which Hogarth used to sit and
smoke his pipe, was given by the painter's widow
to the present owner's grandfather, who \\as a
martyr to the gout. It moves very easily on
primitive stone castors, three in number. To this
same individual Mrs. Hogarth offered to sell a
quantity of her late husband's pictures for jC^2<:> ;
but the bargain was never concluded, and his
paintings were eventually dispersed.

The principal street of Chiswick is a narrow,
winding thoroughfare, running at right angles from
the river, close by the church. In the middle of
the village is the Griflin Brewer)', where, aided by
the medicinal virtues of a spring of their own,
Messrs. Fuller, Smith, and Turner produce ales in
no way inferior to those of Bass and Allsopp ; and
not far distant is the brewery of Messrs. Sich and
Co., a firm perhaps equally well known.

The Mall, as we have stated above, overlooks
the river, and commands beautiful and extensive
views. It commences at the vicarage, and ex-

tends eastward towards the terrace at Hammer-
smith, with which it forms a continuous promenade.
About half-way along tlie Mall is an old public-
house, the " Red Lion," which has stood upwards
of a century : it is a large house, and some of the
rooms and fireplaces bear evident traces of its
antiquity. Chained to the lintel of the door is an
old whetstone, which was placed there a few years
ago, on the demolition of a still older inn which
stood next door, on the spot now occupied by the
new store-rooms of the Griffin Brewery. This
older hostelry bore the sign of the " White Bear
and Whetstone." The stone itself, which has been
handed over to the safe keeping of the " Red
Lion," bears the following inscription, cut upon it
in deep letters : — " I am the old whetstone, and
have sharpened tools on this spot above i,ooo
years." As originally cut, the number of years
was evidently loo ; the fourth figure is clearly a
more recent addition. From the tool-sharpening
operation that has been carried on, a portion of
the stone is considerably worn away, and with it
part of the inscription, which, we were informed
by an old inhabitant, ran thus: — "Whet without,
wet within." Of the ludicrous uses to which a
whetstone may sometimes be put we have given an
amusing instance in our account of Fulham Palace.*
A little to the east of the " Red Lion," on the
spot now occupied by a row of modern semi-
detached villas, stood formerly a building called
the College House, which was originally the
prebendal manor-house of Chiswick, of which we
have spoken above. In 1570 it was held by Dr.
Gabriel Goodman, Dean of Westminster (one of
Fuller's " worthies "), who granted a lease of the
manor, in trust, for ninety-nine years, to WiUiam
Watter and George Burden, that they should
within two years convey the farm to the Abbey
Church of Westminster. In this lease it was
stipulated that the lessee " should erect additional
buildings adjoining the manor-house, sufficient for
the accommodation of one of the prebendaries of
Westminster, the master of the school, the usher,
forty boys, and proper attendants, who should
retire thither in time of sickness, or at other
seasons when the Dean and Chapter should think
proper." From that time down to a comparatively
recent date a piece of ground was reserved (in the
lease to the sub-lessee) as a play-place for the
Westminster scholars, although it is not known
that the school was ever removed to Chiswick
since the time of Dr. Busby, who resided here
with some of his scholars, in 1657, "on account of

* See ante, p. 509.

558

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Chiswiclc.

the hot and sickly season of the year." In 1665,
when the plague commenced in town, Dr. Busby
removed his scholars to Chiswick. But it spread
its baneful influence even to this place. Upon this
Dr. Busby called his scholars together, and in an
excellent oration acquainted them that he had
presided over the school for twenty-five years, in
which time he had never hitherto deserted West-
minster; but that the exigencies of the time required

process of his own devising. Whittingham com-
menced business on a small scale in Fetter Lane,
but ultimately he realised a handsome income
from the " Chiswick Press."

The old house, which in its latter days was
known as Chiswick Hall, having been disposed of,
was finally demolished in 1874, when the lower
part of the walls, which had been embedded in
stones and wood-work, was found to be of great

ENTRANCE TO CHISWICK.

it now. At the end of the last century, according
to Lysons, the names of Lord Halifax and John
Dryden, who were Busby's scholars, could be seen
written on the walls of this interesting old house.
When Hughson published his " History of London "
(in 1809), the old College House was occupied as
an academy. In more recent times the premises
were taken by Mr. C. Whittingham, who here set
up that printing-press which subsequently turned
out so many beautifully-printed octavos and duo-
decimos, embracing nearly the whole range of
English literature. Mr. Whittingham built for
himself extensive premises at Chiswick, where he
manufactured paper, the reputation of which soon
spread, owing to its strength, and yet its softness.
This was made principally from old rope, by a

thickness. Some part of the old boundary-walls
are still standing. The old materials having been
used in the alterations carried out in the sixteenth
century, there can be no doubt that the fragments
found embedded in the walls were from the earlier
building, and possibly of Norman origin.

Here, probably at Walpole House, on the Mall,
Barbara, Duchess of Cleveland, spent the last few
years of her life. Here, in the summer of 1 709,
says Boyer, she " fell ill of a dropsie what swelled
her gradually to a monstrous hulk, and in about
three months put a period to her life, in the sixty-
ninth year of her age." She died October 9th, in
the year above mentioned, and was buried in the
chancel of the parish church, though no stone
marks the spot. The pall of this mistress of

1, Chiswick Church, 1760.

AT CHISWICK.
2. Hogarth's Tomb, i860.

3 Manor House, Chiawick, 1850.

55o

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[ChiswicV.

royalty was borne by two Knights of the Garter,
the Dukes of Ormond and Hamilton, and four
other peers of the realm. Lords Essex, Grantham,
Lifford, and Berkeley of Stratton. At Walpole
House Daniel O'Connell resided for several years
while he was studying for the law.

In Chiswick Lane, the road leading from the
Mall up to the Kew and London Road, lived
Dr. Rose, a pupil of Doddridge, and a school-
master of repute. He kept an academy at Kew,
where Dr. Johnson came to take tea. Sometimes
Rose would be unavoidably absent, and Johnson
drank cup after cup, condescending to say little
to Mrs. R., as she tells us, except, " Madam, I am
afraid I give you a great deal of trouble." Dr.
Rose, as we have stated above, lies buried in the
neighbouring churchyard.

Another resident was Dr. Ralph, a political
writer and historian, who appears in Bubb Doding-
ton's Diary to have been long in the confidence
and service of the clique at Leicester House.*

In 1766 the quiet village was frighted from its
propriety by the arrival of the celebrated Rousseau,
who took lodgings at a small grocer's shop near the
house of Dr. Rose. " He sits in the shop," says
a writer in the Caldwell papers, "and learns English
words, which brings rnany customers to the shop."
At one time Edward Moore, the journalist, lived
here. Originally a linen-draper, he became the
author of " Fables for the Fair Sex," the tragedy
of The Gamester, two forgotten comedies, a collec-
tion of periodical essays ; and was for some time
editor of the World. He was in the habit of
attending Chiswick Church, and as the tale goes,
his wife called him to account one Sunday for
having been very inattentive during the service.
Moore at once remarked, " Well, my dear, that's
very odd, for I was thinking the whole time of the
'next Worldr'

On the west side of Chiswick I,ane is Mawson
Row — formerly called Mawson's Buildings — a row
of red-brick houses, five in number. Alexander
Pope and his father lived here for a short time.
They removed thither early in 17 16, from Binfield,
the place of the poet's birth ; and left Chiswick
for the more famous residence at Twickenham
about the year 17 19. The elder Pope, who died
herein 1717, lies buried in Chiswick churchyard.
Portions of the original drafts of the translation of
the " Iliad," on which Pope was engaged at this
period, and which are preserved in the British
Museum, are written upon the backs of letters to
Pope and his fatlier, addressed, " To Alexr. Pope,

• Sec Vol. in., p. 164.

Esquire, at Mawson's Buildings, in Chiswick."
Among the writers of these letters appear to be
Lord Harcourt, and Teresa Blount.

Higher up Chiswick Lane stands the old Manor
House, which was once inhabited by the lords of
the manor, and has all the imposing e.xterior of a
French chateau. It is now a private lunatic asylum.
Our readers will not have forgotten that on
Chiswick Mall stood the " Academy for young
ladies," kept by Mrs. Pinkerton, which figures
so largely in Thackeray's " Vanity Fair."

At a short distance westward from Chiswick
Lane lies the hamlet of Turnham Green, which
connects the parish of Hammersmith with that of
Chiswick, to which it belongs. The green abuts
upon the main road, and is enclosed ; and in the
centre stands a church of Early-English architec-
ture, which was erected in 1843, when the hamlet
was made into an ecclesiastical district.

Without going back to mythical times, to speak
of a certain battle which is stated to have been
fought here in the British or Saxon times, and
without inferring, as does Stukeley, that it was a
Roman station simply because an urn of Roman
manufacture was dug up here during the reign of
George I., we may state that Turnham Green in
its time has been the scene of sundry historic
events. Here, in 1642, Prince Rupert encamped
with his army; and on the day of the " Battle of
Brentford" the green witnessed some sharp skir-
mishing, no less than six hundred of the prince's
cavaliers being left dead on the field. The
Royalists — headed by Prince Rupert, and followed
by King Charles — after leaving Oxford, and making
their way through Abingdon, Henley, and other
towns, had reached as far as Brentford, which was
occupied by a broken regiment of Colonel Hollis's,
but " stout men all, who had before done good
service at Edgehill." The Royalists, it appears,
fancied that they should cut their way through
Brentford without any difficulty, go on to Hammer-
smith, where the Parliament's train of artillery lay,
and then take London by a night assault. But
Hollis's men opposed their passage, and stopped
their march so long at Brentford that the regiments
of Hampden and Lord Brooke had time to come
up. These three regiments, hot without great loss,
completely barred the road. The Earl of Essex,
having quartered his army at Acton, had ridden
to Westminster to give the Parliament an account
of his campaign, and while he was absent, Prince
Rupert, taking advantage of a dense November fog,
had advanced, and fallen unexpectedly upon the
Roundheads. The roar of the artillery was heard
in the House of Lords, and the Earl of Essex

Chiswick.]

TURNHAM GREEN.

S6i

rushed out of the house, mounted his horse, and
galloped across the parks in the direction of the
ominous sound. As he approached Brentford,
the earl learned, to his astonishment, the trick
whicli had been played ; he had gathered a
considerable force of horse as he rode along, and
■when he came to the spot he found that the
Royalists had given over the attack and were lying
quietly on the western side of Brentford. "All
that night," says May, " the city of London poured
out men towards Brentford, who, every hour,
marched thither ; and all the lords and gentlemen
that belonged to the Parliament army were there
ready by Sunday morning, the 14th of November."
Essex found himself, in the course of this Sunday,
at the head of 24,000 men, who were drawn up
in battle array on Turnham Green. How the
Royalists took themselves off again to O.xford, by
way of Kingston Bridge, is recorded in history;
and how the Earl of Essex went in pursuit, crossing
over the Thames by a bridge of boats from Fulham
to Putney, we have already told.*

Turnham Green was to have been the scene
of the Jacobite plot to assassinate William III.
on the 15th of February, 1696, as recorded by
Macaulay in the 21st chapter of his history. "The
place," he writes, " was to be a narrow and wind-
ing lane leading from the landing-place on the
north of the river to Turnham Green. The spot
may still easily be found, though the ground has
since been drained by trenches. But during the
seventeenth century it was a quagmire, through
which the royal coach was with difficulty tugged
at a foot's pace." For their complicity in this
plot, six gentlemen, named Charnock, Keyes,
King, Sir John Frend, Sir William Parkyns, and
Sir John Fenwick, were tried, and executed on
Tower Hill. The spot is still easily identified.
In his "Diary" under date May ist, 1852, Macaulay
has an entry : "After breakfast I went to Turnham
Green to look at the place. I found it after some
search : the very spot beyond a doubt, and ad-
mirably suited for an assassination."

A pamphlet, published in 1680, furnishes details
of another sanguinary encounter, on a smaller
scale, which took place here ; the pamphlet is
entitled " Great and Bloody News from Turnham
Green, or a Relation of a sharp Encounter between
the Earl of Pembroke and his Company with the
Constable and Watch belonging to the parish of
Chiswick, in which conflict one Mr. Smeethe, a
gentleman, and one Mr. Halfpenny, a constable,
were mortally wounded."

* Sec ante^ p. 502.

In 1776, Mr. Alderman Sawbrldge, then Lord
Mayor, met with a misnap here. Crossing the
green, on his way back from a state visit to royalty
at Kew, his carriage and suite were stopped by a
single highwayman; even the City "sword-bearer'
sat still and submitted to see himself and the
chief civic dignitary stripped of their valuables.
It is said that when the highwayman had thus
outraged the City magnates, he rode off towards
Kew, and meeting the vicar on the way, made
him deliver up his valuables, and among other
things his written sermon !

But even Turnham Green has its amusing
memories. Angelo, in his " Reminiscences," tells
a good story, the scene of which he lays here. " Re-
turning one day from my professional attendance
in the country, when I reached Turnham Green
I met a happy pair, as I imagined, who were taking
a trip from town to pass their honeymoon in the
country. They happened, however, to have a
quarrel just as a return post-chaise passed by, a
little in front of me ; the postilion was stopped
by the gentleman ; and as I stopped also I beheld
the gentleman hand the young lady out of the
coach and place her in the chaise, singing at the
same time the words of an old favourite Vauxhall
song, ' How sweet the love that meets return ! '
It is said that 'a fool and his money are soon
parted ; ' in this case it may be suggested that for
' money ' we should read ' bride.' "

Like its neighbour Hammersmith, Turnham
Green has numbered among its residents a few
men of note in their day ; among them. Lord
Lovat, the Scottish rebel, and the hero of Gibraltar,
Sir George Eliott, Lord Heathfield.

The old " Pack Horse " has been a well-known
tavern at Turnham Green for a couple of centuries ;
it is mentioned in an advertisement in the Lojidon
Gazette as far back as the year 1697. Here
Horace Walpole used often to bait his horse when
journeying between London and his favourite
Strawberry Hill. The "Pack Horse," as Mr.
Larwood tells us, in his " History of Sign-boards,"
was a common sign for posting inns in former
times : and it certainly points back to a very
primitive mode of travelling. Another old inn,
but which has disappeared within the last few
years, was the " King of Bohemia's Head," a
name already made familiar to our readers in our
account of Drury Lane.t

The locality of Turnham Green has long been
famous for its gardens and nurseries. Almost the
very last entry in John Evelyn's " Diary" relates to

t See Vol. III., p. 37.

$62

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[Chiswiclc

this place; he writes, under date May i8, 1705 : —
" I went to see Sir John Chardine at Turnham
Green; the gardens being very fine and well
planted with fruit."

The parish of Chiswiclc has long been famous
for its nurseries, and it is said that heaths were
cultivated here almost earlier than in any of the
metropolitan establishments of this kind. Of late
years the nurseries have greatly risen in character,
and they are still improving. New houses have
been erected, a wider range of plant-culture has
been taken, and a considerable interest is made
to attach to it on account of the spirit and
enterprise with which new plants are procured,
and the successful manner in which they are
flowered.

The following epitaph on Jemmy Armstrong, a
sheriff's officer, who died in November, 1801, at
his villa on Turnham Green, commonly known by
the name of " Lock-up Hall," will be found in
" The Spirit of the Public Journals " for 1802 : —

"Armstrong's arrested ! sued, as will be all,
By old Time's writ, special-original,
The debt to nature due to make him pay.
Death, Fate's bum-bailiff, served him with ' Ca. Sa. '
His doctor ' to file common bail ' did move :
Not granted. Jemmy puts in bail above.
By Habeas now remov'd from earth to sky,
Before th' Eternal Judge he'll justify."

From Turnham Green, a broad road lined with
lime-trees, and known as the Duke's New Road —
from its having been made by the sixth Duke of
Devonshire — leads to Chiswick House, which used
to be one of the Devonshire seats. In the ninth
year of King Edward IV., one Baldwin Bray,
whose ancestors were settled here for many
generations, conveyed the lease of the " manor of
Sutton within Cheswyke " to Thomas Coveton and
others ; and during the civil war this manor was
sequestered to the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of
London. In 1676 the lease came into the hands
of Thomas, Earl of Fauconberg, whose son's great-
nephew, Thomas Fowler, Viscount Fauconberg,
assigned it about the year 1727 to Richard, Earl
of Burlington. After the Earl's death, the lease
was renewed to the Duke of Devonshire, who
married his daughter and sole heir. The other,
or prebendal manor, is still in the hands of the
VVeatherstone family.

The mansion stands near the site of an old
house, which, it is said, was built by Sir Edward
Warden, or Wardour, but which was pulled down
in 1788, and by Kip's print of it seems to have
been of the date of James I. Towards the latter
end of that king's reign, it certainly was the

property and residence of Robert Carr, Earl of
Somerset, whose abandoned Countess died there
in misery and disgrace. The Earl, who was a
partaker in her crimes, survived her many years,
but was never able to retrieve his broken fortunes
and dishonoured name. On the marriage of his
daughter, Lady Ann, with Lord Russell,* he was
obliged to mortgage his house at Chiswick to
make up the marriage portion which the Earl of
Bedford demanded with his wife, and the mortgage
never being paid off, the estate passed away into
other hands, from whom again it passed through
several changes into the possession of Boyle, Earl
of Burhngton, above mentioned. Faulkner, in his
" History of Chiswick," remarks that " it is a
curious fact that though Chiswick was sold by the
beautiful Lady Ann Carr's father, to enable her
to marry, it was not lost to her descendants ; for
Rachel, the daughter of Lord Russell who was
beheaded, and his celebrated wife, married the
second Duke of Devonshire, so that the present
duke is descended from that lovely girl, and is a
possessor of the place where her youth was spent
— the home of her ancestors."

The house, which is almost hidden from our
view by the tall cedars and other trees among
which it stands embowered, was erected by the
last Earl of Burlington — the " architect earl," as he
is called — in the reign of George II., from a design
by Palladio. It now no longer belongs to the
Duke of Devonshire, having been sold to a
physician for conversion into a lunatic asylum.
The paragraphs which follow describe it as it was
before its transformation : —

" The ascent to the house is by a double flight of
steps, on one side of which is the statue of Palladio,
on the other that of Inigo Jones. The portico is
supported by six fluted columns, of the Corinthian
order, surmounted by a pediment : the cornice,
frieze, and architraves being as rich as possible.
Inside this is an octagonal saloon, which finishes at
the top in a dome, through which it is lighted. The
interior of the structure is finished with the utmost
elegance ; the ceilings and mouldings are richly
gilt, upon a white ground, giving a chaste air to the
whole interior. The principal rooms are embel-
lished with books, splendidly bound, and so arranged
as to appear not an encumbrance but an ornament.

" The gardens are laid out in the first taste, the
vistas terminated by a temple, obelisk, or some
similar ornament, so as to produce the most agree-
able effect. At the end opposite the house are
two wolves by Scheemakers ; the other exhibits a

• Ste Vol. IV., p. 538.

ChU'ick.]

CHISWICK HOUSE.

563

large lioness and a goat. The view is terminated
by three fine antique statues, dug up in Adrian's
garden at Rome, with stone seats between them.
Along the ornamental waters we are led to an
inclosure, where are a Roman temple and an
obelisk ; and on its banks stands an exact model
of the portico of St. Paul's, Covent Garden, the
work of Inigo Jones. The pleasure-grounds and
park include about ninety acres, together with
an orangery, conservatory, and range of forcing-
houses 300 feet in length.

" Horace Walpole, being a connoisseui-, must
needs find fault with something. He desired that
the lavish quantity of urns and statues behind the
garden front should be ' retrenched ' j and this!
might be desirable if these urns and statues were
not exquisite gems of art, and individually of great
beauty and value, demanding a more undivided
attention than would be given them if considered
merely as ornamental appendages to the grounds.
The bronze statues of the Gladiator, Hercules with
his club, and the Faun, are worthy a place in any
gallery. Three colossal statues, removed hither
from Rome, although mutilated, are very fine, as
is also the profusion of minor marbles scattered
throughout the grounds. Nothing can be more
exquisite than the taste that presides over the
Versailles in little. The lofty walls of clipped
yew, inclosing alleys terminated by rustic temples ;
the formal flower-garden, with walks converging
towards a common centre, where a marble copy of
the Medicean Venus woos you from the summit
of a graceful Doric column ; the labyrinthic involu-
tion of the walks, artfully avoiding the limits of
the demesne, and deceiving you as to its real
extent ; the artificial water, with its light and
elegant bridge, gaily painted barges, and wild-
fowl disporting themselves on its glassy surface ;
the magnificent cedars feathering to the ground ;
the temples and obelisk, happily situate on the
banks of the river, or embowered in wildernesses
of wood ; the breaks of landscapes, where no
object is admitted but such as the eye delights to
dwell upon ; the moving panorama of the Thames
removed'to that happy distance where the objects
on its surface glide along like shadow; the absolute
seclusion of the scene, almost within the hum of a
great city, make this seat of the Duke of Devon-
shire a little earthly paradise. The house, notwith-
standing Lord Hervey's sarcasm (who said that it
was ' too small to inhabit, and too large to hang
to one's watch '), is a worthy monument of the
genius and taste of the noble architect. Nowhere
in the vicinity of London have wealth and judg-
ment been so happily united ; nowhere in the

neighbourhood of the metropolis have we so com-
plete an example of the capabilities of the Italian
or classic style of landscape gardening.

" One of the principal objects of interest in the
garden is an arched gateway, designed by Inigo
Jones, which was originally erected at Chelsea, on
the premises which once belonged to the great
Sir Thomas More, but were afterwards known as
Beaufort House,* from being occupied by the
head of that family. The gate subsequently
belonged to Sir Hans Sloane, but as he neglected
it Lord Burlington begged it from him. Its re-
moval hither occasioned the following lines by
Pope : —

' Passenger. O gate ! how cam'st thou here ? ,
Cat{. I was brought from Chelsea last year

Eatter'd with wind and weather ;

Inigo Jones put me together ;

Sir Hans Sloane

Let me alone,

So Burlington brought me hither.'

"Again, it will be remembered that in his poem
on ' Liberty ' Thomson thus apostrophizes Lord
Burlington : —

' Lo ! numerous domes a Burlington confess :
For kings and senates lit, the palace see 1
The temple, breathing a religious awe ;
E'en framed with elegance the plain retreat,
The private dwelling. Certain in his aim,
Taste never, idly worlsing, spares expense.

See ! sylvan scenes, where Art alone pretends
To dress her mistress and disclose her charms ;
Such as a Pope in miniature has shown,
A Bathurst o'er the widening forest spreads,
And such as form a Richmond, Chiswick, Stowe.'

" Dr. Waagen, who visited Chiswick House for
the special purpose of art criticism, reports in
his ' Works of Art and Artists in England,' that
' among the pictures are many good and many
even excellent, but that, unfortunately, tliey are
pardy in a bad condition, either from the want of
cleaning or from dryness. Several pictures, too,'
he adds, ' are hung in an unfavourable light, 30
that no decided opinion can be formed of them.'
Among the pictures are several of Vandyke, Caspar
Poussin, Paul Veronese, Titian, Tintoretto, C.
Maratti, Sir Godfrey Kneller, Cornelius Jansen,
Holbein, &c., and one very exquisite miniature
portrait of Edward VI., after Holbein, by Peter
Oliver, son of Isaac Oliver, one of the favourite
painters of Charles I. Perhaps the finest of all
the paintings is one of Charles I. and his children,
by Vandyke, as to which it is uncertain whether it
is a duplicate or the original of the picture in Her
Majesty's collection at Windsor. Another cele-

■ See Vol. v., p. 53.

5^4

OLD AND N£W LONDON.

[ChUwlck.

brated picture is by J. Van Eyck, which Horace
Walpole mentions in his book on painting in Eng-
land— ' The Virgin and Child attended by Angels,'
as representing in the figures which it contains
several members of Lord Clifford's family (from
whom the Earl of Burlington was maternally

' Drove with the Duke of Devonshire, in his
curricle, to Chiswick, where he showed me all the
alterations that he was about to make, in adding
the gardens of Lady M. Coke's house to his own.
The house is down, and in the gardens he has
constructed a magnificent hot-house, with a con-

descended); though the statement was controverted
at considerable length by an eminent antiquary
and genealogist in the Ge?itkman's Magazine for
1840.

" Among the other articles of virtu in Chiswick
House is a present from the late Emperor of
Russia to the si.xth Duke of Devonshire ; a mag-
nificent clock in a case of malachite, surmounted
with a representation of the Emperor Peter the

servatory for flowers, the

middle under a cupola.

Altogether, it is 300 feet long.

The communication between the

two gardens is through what

was the old greenhouse, of whicli they have

made a double arcade, making the prettiest efiect

possible.'

"In 1814 the Emperor Alexander L of Russia

Great in a storm, who is standing in a boat, with his antl the other allied sovereigns visited the Duke of
hand upon the helm, in a firm and defiant attitude.
The boat itself, which is about a foot long, is of

bronze.

"The grounds of Chiswick House were con-
siderably enlarged by the sixth Duke of Devonshire,

Devonshire here, and the open-air entertainments
which were given at Chiswick by the Duke in
I subsequent years were among the chief attractions
of the ' London season.' Sir Walter Scott, in his
' Diary,' May 17th, 1828, tells us how that, after

In Miss Berry's ' Journal,' under date of June ist, paying a visit to the Duke of Wellington, he drove
1813, is the following entry respecting them: — [to Chiswick, where he had never been before.

Chiswick.1

CHISWICK GARDEN-PARTIES.

S6S

'A numerous and gay party,' he adds, 'were
assembled to walk and enjoy the beauties of that
Palladian dome. The place and highly orna-
mented gardens belonging to it resemble a picture
of Watteau. There is some affectation in the
picture, but in the ensemble the original looked very
well. The Duke of Devonshire received every one
with the best possible manners. The scene was
dignified by the presence of an immense elephant,

Queen Victoria, and other sovereigns and illus-
trious persons to the head of the ducal house of
Cavendish.

" Chiswick has witnessed the death of more than
one political celebrity. At the end of August,
1806, the great statesman, Charles James Fox,
was in his last illness removed to the Duke of
Devonshire's villa, where he died a fortnight later.
The bed-chamber which he occupied opens into

CORNEY HOUSE, IN

who, under the charge of a groom, wandered up
and down, giving an air of Asiatic pageantry to
the entertainment.' This elephant occupied a
paddock near the house ; her intelligence, docility,
and affection were remarkable ; she died in the
year 1829.

In June, 1842, Her Majesty and the late Prince
Consort visited his grace at Chiswick ; and in
the month of June, 1844, the duke gave here a
magnificent entertainment to the Emperor(Nicholas)
of Russia, the King of Saxony, the Duke and
Duchess of Cambridge, and about 700 of the
nobility and gentry.

It may be added that several of the finest trees
in these gardens were planted by royal hands, to
commemorate the visits of the Emperor Nicholas,
288

the Italian saloon, and before the window grew a
mountain-ash, which appears to have been to him
an object of great interest.

" The following anecdotes rest upon the authority
of Samuel Rogers : — ' Very shortly before Fox died
he complained of great uneasiness in his stomach,
and Clive advised him to try a cup of coffee. It
was accordingly ordered ; but not being brought
as soon as was expected, Mrs. Fox expressed
some impatience ; upon which Fox said, with his
usual sweet smile, " Remember, my dear, that good
coffee cannot be made in a moment." Lady
Holland announced the death of Fox in her own
odd manner to those relatives and intimate friends
of his who were sitting in a room near his bed-
chamber, and waiting to hear he had breathed his

566

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

rChlswick,

last : she walked through the room with her apron
over her head. * * * How fondly the surviving
friends of Fo.x cherished his memory ! Many years
after his death, I was at a fete given by the Duke
of Devonshire at Chiswick House. Sir Robert
Adair and I wandered about the apartments up
and down stairs. " In which room did Fox
e.\pire .' " asked Adair. I replied, " In this very
room ! " Immediately Adair burst into tears with
a vehemence of grief such as I hardly ever saw
exhibited by a man.'

" Undoubtedly, Fox was a great orator. Horace
Walpole wrote :— ' Fox had not the ungraceful
hesitation of his father, yet scarcely equalled him
in subtlety and acuteness. But no man ever
excelled him in the clearness of argument, which
flowed from him in a torrent of vehemence, as
declamation sometimes does from those who want
argument.' Burke once called him 'the greatest
debater the world ever saw ' ; and Mackintosh de-
scribed him as ' the most Demosthenean speaker
since Demosthenes.'

" Twenty years afterwards there came hither to
die, in the same villa and the same room, and nearly
at the same age, the classic and witty and brilliant
George Canning. He died on the 8th of August,
1827. The apartment in which the two states-
men breathed their last is thus sketched by Sir
Henry Bulwer (Lord DalHng), in his ' Historical
Characters ' : — ' It is a small low chamber, over
a kind of nursery, and opening into a wing
of the building, which gives it the appearance
of looking into a court-yard. Nothing can be
more simple than its furniture or its decorations.
On one side of the fire-place are a few book-
shelves ; opposite the foot of the bed is the low
chimney-piece, and on it a small bronze clock,
to which we may fancy the weary and impatient
sufferer often turned his eyes during those bitter
moments in which he was passing from the world
which he had filled with his name and was govern-
ing with his projects.' "

In later years Chiswick House was used as
a suburban nursery for the children of the Prince
and Princess of Wales ; and occasionally, during
the summer season, the Prince and Princess would I
take up their residence here, and give garden
parties, which perhaps even excelled in brilliancy
those given in former years.

Corney House, which was pulled down in 1823,
originally belonged to the Russell family, who were
seated here at the commencement of the seven-
teenth century. In 1602 Queen Elizabeth paid
a visit to its then owner, William, Lord Russell,
whose son Francis, first Karl of Dcdford, afterwards

lived here, and took an interest in the concerns of
the parish, as is evident from the inscription on
the churchyard wall already mentioned.* The
house was for some time the residence of the Earl
Macartney; but, like most of the property in the im-
mediate neighbourhood of Chiswick House, it has
passed into the hands of the Duke of Devonshire.
On the demolition of the mansion the grounds
were added to those of Chiswicic House ; its name,
however, is preserved in Corney Reach, a bend of
the river between Chiswick and Mordake Bridge,
which has become familiarised in aquatic annals
in connection with the inter-University boat-race.

It appears by the Court Rolls that Sir Stephen
Fox, in the year 1685, purchased a copyhold estate
at Chiswick, on which he built a mansion, whicli
he made his principal residence after he had retired
from public business. William III. was so pleased
with it that he is said to have exclaimed to the
Earl of Portland on his first visit, " This place is
perfectly fine ; I could live here five days " — a
compliment which he never paid to any other
place in England except Lord Exeter's mansion
at Burleigh. The staircase of Sir Stephen Fox's
house was painted by Verrio. The gardens, as we
learn from Evelyn's "Diarj'" (October 30th, 1682),
were laid out by the architect, whose name was
May : — " The garden much too narrow ; the place
without water, neere a highway and neere another
greate house of my Lord Burlington ; with little
land about it, so that I wonder at the expense ; but
women," he tpaintly adds, " will have their will."
Sir Stephen Fox, who died in 17 16, was the father
of Henry, first Lord Holland, and grandfather of
Charles James Fox.

In 18 18, the gardens of the Horticultural Society
were established on that part of the grounds of
Chiswick House lying between the mansion and
Turnham Green. Up to this time, few of the
inhabitants of London even visited the village ;
but when the Horticultural Fetes were held here
Chiswick achieved some notoriety ; it rose to be
a place of popular resort, and had even its steam-
boat pier.

Other attractions, however, sprang up and threw
Chiswick into the shade ; and when, as we have
stated in a previous volume,t the head-quarters of
the HorticuUural Society were removed to South
Kensington, the visitors to Chiswick became " few
and fiir between," with the solitary exception of
the day of the University boat-race, when the
Chiswick bank of the Thames annually receives
its moiety of eager and expectant sight-seers.

• Sec ante, p. 555.

t Sec Vol, v., p. 116.

General Remarks,]

HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS.

567

The Horticultural Society's grounds are now
used as nursery and fruit gardens, for the culture
of the seeds and rare plants collected by the society
from all parts of the world ; as a school of horti-
culture ; and for raising plants and flowers for the

conservatory and gardens at South Kensington,
and for distribution among the Fellows of the
Society. The plants transferred from Chiswick to
South Kensington are to be numbered by scores
of thousands.

CHAPTER XLL
GENERAL REMARKS AND CONCLUSION.

"A portraiture of London ! It is Babel
In greatness, in confusion, and in change;
But yet there's order in \l."— Babylon tht Great.

A General View of London— Length of its Streets, and Number of Dwellings— Growth of London since the Time of Henry VIII.— The Population
at Various Periods since 16S7— The Population of London compared with that of other Cities— Recent Alterations and Improvements in the
Streets of London— The Food and Water Supply- Removal of Sewage— The Mud and Dust of London— Churches and Hospitals— Places
of Amusement — Concluding Observations.

We have now journeyed together — it is to be
hoped pleasantly, and not wholly without profit —
for six years, traversing one by one the highways
and byways of the metropolis, but always, as we
promised, within sight of the cross and ball of St.
Paul's Cathedral — objects which, from first to last,
we have kept steadily in view. We have, never-
theless, rambled over several hundred miles of
ground — from Highgate and Hornsey in the north
to Norwood and Streatham in the south, and from
the river Lea in the east to Chiswick in the far
west ; and covering altogether an area upwards of
one hundred square miles in extent. It will, how-
ever, be our duty, before we actually part company,
to take our stand as it were upon the vantage-
ground of some breezy height, and to give our
readers a general view of the vast city which we
have traversed in detail, and on which we may be
supposed to be looking down : our view extending,
in the happy and epigrammatic words of Mr. G.
A. Sala, over a sort of panorama — " from where
the town begins to where it ends ; from the marshy
flats below Deptford to the twinkling lights of
Putney and Kew."

Standing, then, in this exalted (mental) position,
and surveying the expanse before us, we see at our
feet London, to use the phrase of the Brothers
Percy, " stretching out its arms, like a second
Briareus, m every direction," swallowing up all the
villas in our environs, and making them gradually
part and parcel of the capital. In order, how-
ever, to make our general view of London at all
permanently interesting and useful, it will be de-
sirable here to add a few generalisadons, based on
Parliamentary returns and other statistics.

First, then, according to a recent estimate, the
total length of the streets of London is about 3,250

miles ; whilst the entire number of houses — " in-
habited, uninhabited, and building "—concentrated,
at the time of taking the census ot 1891, within
the area of " London according to Act of Parlia-
ment," amounted to about 670,000. And this
number is still increasing at the rate of upwards
of 10,000 a year, which, however, is a less rapid
rate than was the case a few years ago. This
large number of houses, with an average frontage
of five yards, would be much more than sufficient
to form one continuous row of buildings round
the island of Great Britain, from the Land's
End to John o'Groat's, from John o'Groat's to
the North Foreland, and from the North Fore-
land back again to the Land's End, or some
1,850 miles altogether.

When we look at the great metropolis from an
antiquarian point of view, there is much to interest
in its gradual growth. Not to speak of the City
proper, which, as a matter of fact, has for centuries
been almost stationary, we may gain a general idea
of the outlying districts of London under King
Henry VIII. from some expressions in an Act of
Parliament passed in the fifteenth year of his reign,
and which regulates the extent of jurisdiction given
to the wardens of certain City companies with
respect to the control of apprentices. Under this
Act certain rights were given to these gentlemen
" within two miles of the City, namely, within the
town of Westminster, the parishes of St. Martin-
in-the-Fields, Our Lady in the Strand, St. Clement's
Danes without Temple Bar, St. Giles'-in-the-Fields,
St. Andrew's, Holborn ; the town and borough
of Southwark, Shoreditch, Whitechapel parish,
Clerkenwell parish, St. Botolph without Aldgate,
St. Catharine's, near the Tower, and Bermondsey
Street." Most of these suburbs had no point of

568

OLD AND NMV LONDON.

[General Rerr.nrks.

contact with the City, and few had any contact
with each other or any continuous buildings. Both
St. Giles' and St. Martin's parishes were then lite-
rally " in the Fields," as, indeed, was St Andrew's,
in Holborn ; Marylebone and Islington are not
even mentioned; while Westminster, Clcrkenwell,
Shoreditch, Whitechapel, and the Strand consisted
entirely of mansions of the nobility, standing in
their own gardens.

The suburbs, therefore, in the reign of which we
speak, must have been nearly void of buildings.
From the map of Ralph Aggas, published about
the year 1560, it appears that almost the whole of
the metropolis was confined, even at that time,
nearly half a century later, within the City walls.
Certainly a few straggling houses fringed one side
of the Strand, and a few more stood round about
Smithfield. Open fields were under grass close to
the City walls throughout almost its whole northern
circumference ; while those houses which stood
within them were for the most part detached and
accommodated with gardens. The village of St.
Giles's lay entirely isolated across the open country.
A single street led up Holborn, almost as far as
Chancery Lane ; between that point and Somerset
House the space was entirely occupied by fields
and gardens. There were also many gardens and
open spaces within the City itself, i^nd more par-
ticularly along the wall, within which a considerable
space was kept clear round the whole circuit, like
the Pomaerium of ancient Rome. The largest area
occupied by gardens was immediately behind Loth-
bury. In the eastern and south-eastern parts of
the City a great many spots were similarly appro-
priated. And yet, within this very limited compass
of inhabited ground was crowded a population of
constant dwellers, amounting to not less than
130,000, or perhaps more than twice the number
of those who regularly sleep within the same area
at the present time.

Carefully, however, as its succes-sive changes may
be described, it is hardly possible for words to
convey so clear and definite an impression of the
alterations which have from time to time been
made in our metropolis as may be gained from the
inspection of an old map of London and comparing
it with one of the present day. Thus, for instance,
in a map issued between 1680 and 1 690, the Thames
is invested with an unusual degree of importance,
and from the number of landing-places and stairs
marked down it is evident that the Londoners of
that day must have been very fond of the water,
and must, moreover, have spent much time upon
it. Berkeley House, Albemarle House, and Bur-
lington House stood in the green fields, which have

since been covered over with dwelling-places and
christened Piccadilly. Near " So Ho " we find
" the road to O.xford," and hard by " the road to
Hampstead " is indicated. The former of these is
now styled O.xford Street, and the other Tottenham
Court Road. Bloomsbury had in it a few houses,
while Clerkenwell was the residence of various
dukes, earls, and others of the nobility.

Passing on a few years further, Lord Macaulay
observes, in his " History of England," that " who-
ever examines the maps of London which were pub-
lished towards the close of the reign of Charles II.
will see that only the nucleus of the present capital
then existed. The town did not, as now, fade
by imperceptible degrees into the countr)'. No
long avenues of villas, embowered in lilacs and
laburnums, extended from the great centre of
wealth and civilisation almost to the boundaries of
Middlesex and far into the heart of Kent and
Surrey. In the east, no part of the immense line
of warehouses and artificial lakes which now
stretches from the Tower to Blackwall had even
been projected. On the west, scarcely one of
those stately piles of building which are inhabited
by the noble and wealthy was in existence ; and
Chelsea, which is now peopled by more than forty
thousand human beings, was a quiet country village,
with about a thousand inhabitants. On the north,
cattle fed and sportsmen wandered with dogs and
guns over the site of the borough of Marylebone,
and over far the greater part of the space now
covered by the boroughs of Finsbury and of the
Tower Hamlets. Islington was almost a solitude ;
and poets loved to contrast its silence and repose
with the din and turmoil of the monster London.
On the south, the capital is now connected with its
suburb by several bridges, not inferior in magnifi-
cence and solidity to the noblest works of the
Coesars. In 1685 a single line of irregular arches,
overhung by piles of mean and crazy houses, and
garnished, after a fashion worthy of the naked
barbarians of Dahomy, with scores of mouldering
heads, impeded the navigation of the river."

We pass on to the London of Queen Anne's
reign, and find that its expansion, though consider-
able, had not been very rapid during that half
century. " A New Map of the Cityes of London,
Westminster, and the Borough of Southwark, to-
gether with the Suburbs, as they are now standing,"
was issued in 1707. What the suburbs were at that
date may be judged from the fact that the map
extends only from Haberdashers' Hospital, Hoxton,
on the north, to St. Mary Magdalen's, Bermondsey,
on the south ; and from Stepney on tiie east to Buck-
ingham House on the west ; the City wall, with its

General Remarks.]

INCREASE OF THE POPUI.ATIOX.

569

gates, being duly indicated. From a note we learn an increase in ten years of 441,394 souls. In
that the spot now known as the Seven Dials was 1871, again, this number had swelled to 3,254,260 ;
then called "Cock and Pye-fields." In another in 1881 it was 3,816,483 ; and the census of 1891
map, published about 1600, a note is made respect- ^ returned the enormous total of 4,211,056. In the
ing "the prodigious increase of building and other ■ Central Area the number was 1,022,529, and in
alterations of ye Names and Situation of Street, : the rest of Inner London 3,188,527. If the Outer
&c., in this last Sentry (century)." Here, too, the , Ring is added, with its 1,422,276, we get a grand
City wall is very carefully shown, and the several total of 5,633,332.

gates are marked, the quaintness of the spelling
being most interesting and even amusing ; as, for
instance, where just outside the boundary, near
"All Gate," is marked "Ye Goounefownders hs."
(The Gun-founder's house), its character being indi-
cated by the presence of a cannon within the en-
closure. In one point, however, this map may
serve to show that our forefathers were wiser than
ourselves ; for ample provision seems to have been
made for open-air sports, and the fields which
stretched out on all hands furnished the young
citizens with as much room as they could well re-
quire for the development of any "muscular"
theories which may then have been in vogue.
Under the four Georges, however, more rapid

Comparing the population of tlie metropolis
with that of other cities, it was pointed out a
few years ago that London (excluding the Outer
Ring) contained nearly twice as many people as
Pekin ; almost thrice as many as Jeddo ; and treble
the number of Paris ; more than four times as
many as there are in New York ; nearly seven
times as many as St. Petersburg ; eight times as
many as Vienna, Madrid, or Berlin ; nine times
as many as Naples, Calcutta, Moscow, or Lyons ;
thirteen times as many as Lisbon, Grand Cairo,
Amsterdam, or Marseilles ; not less than twenty
times as many as Hamburg, Mexico, Brussels, or
Copenhagen ; and very nearly thirty times as many
as Dresden, Stockholm, Florence, or Frankfort. In

strides were made in the gradual extension of the ; comparison with our own large cities, it at present
metropolis, the erection of new houses being no contains six times as many people as the united
longer prohibited by jealous legislation, and free ' towns of Manchester and Salford, and eight times
trade being established in building for the neces- j as many as Liverpool ; nearly nine times as many
sities of the growing population. The great in- I as Glasgow; ten times as many as Birmingham;
crease in our national manufactures and commerce ' fourteen times as many as Dublin ; and seventeen
which followed the establishment of peace in 1S15, ; times as many as Edinburgh. In England the
brought a large access to the population of London, | following are the fifteen largest towns : Liverpool,
and these persons required to be accommodated Manchester, Birmingham, Leeds, Sheffield, Bristol,
with houses near the scene of their daily labours. | Bradford, Nottingham, Hull, Salford, Newcastle,

Hence IsHngton, and Kensington, and South Lam-
beth, and Hackney, and Dalston were each doubled
in population and in houses ; and the introduction
of railways in the second and third quarters of the

Portsmouth, Oldham, and Sunderland ; and yet
their joint population is less than that of London
by some 400,000 souls. This may not be sur-
prising when we are told that five births occur

present century has far more than doubled the j every hour, and that in each week over 600 are
entire London over which George III. was king. added to the inhabitants of the metropolis.

The population of London and its suburbs was A writer in the Si. James's Magazine (1S71) ob-
calculated by Sir William Petty, in 1687, to be [ served that " our metropolitan population is nearly
696,000; Gregory King, in 1697, by the hearth- 1 three times as large as that of the Papal States,
money, made it 530,000 ; and yet, by actual census nearly three times as much as the whole popula-
in t8oi, including Westminster, Southwark, and 1 tion of Norway; it exceeds by 300,000 the whole
the adjacent hills, it proved to be only 864,845. \ population of Portugal, by 1,300,000 that of Swit-
From iSoi to 1841 — that is, in forty years — the zerland, by 200,000 that of Roumania. It exceeds

that of Canada by 80,000, and surpasses that of

population of London advanced from 864,000 to
1,873,000. In forty years the metropolis had in-
creased above a million, or more than through all
the previous history of the kingdom. In ten years
more it had swelled to 2,361,640, or nearly half a
million more ; and it was calculated, as far back as

the Netherlands by more than half a million. Yet
these two countries include independent states,
strong and stable monarchies, while London is but
a city : still, she is the Niagara of cities. The roar
of her population is heard afar off; and, as one

1854, that the annual increase of the population of : man is as another in tliese days, she is, at the
London was at the rate of 40,000 souls. Ac- lowest estimate, even by the rule of counting heads,

cordingly, in 1861 it had risen to 2,803,034, being

the most important place in the world."

57°

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[General Remarks

Again, a writer in the City Press pointed out, in
1870, that the population of ten Londons would
equal that of all Great Britain and Ireland ; and that
of three hundred and fifty Londons would people the
whole globe. " Every eight minutes of every day of
every year," he adds, " one person dies in London ;
and in every five minutes of every day in the year
one is bora London contains 100,000 winter
tramps, 40,000 costermongers, 30,000 paupers in
the unions; with a criminal class of 16,000, out
of whom, in 1867, it was found that only 7,000
could read or write. Suppose an average town
with a population of 10,000 persons; there are in
London, on Sunday, as many people at work as
would fill ten such towns, and as many gin-drinkers
as would fill fourteen. Two such towns London
could people with fallen women ; one with
gamblers ; three with thieves and receivers of stolen
goods ; and two with children trained in crime. It
comprises two such towns of French people, four
of Germans, one of Greeks, and more Jews than
are to be found in all Palestine. It has as many
Irish as would fill the city of Dublin, and more
Roman Catholics than would fill the city of Rome.
It has 20,000 public-houses and beer-shops,
frequented by 500,000 people as customers. In
London, one in every 890 is insane ; there is one
baker for every 1,200 persons, one butcher for
every 1,500, one grocer for every 1,800, and one
publican for every 650."

In an article on " The Census," by Mr. Charles
Mackeson, in the " British Almanack and Com-
panion" for 1882, after showing that the population
of the metropolis had doubled itself in the course
of the last four decades, and that now one out of
every seven of the people of England and Wales
lives in London, as compared with one out of ten in
1801, the writer proceeds: "This growth, it is
scarcely needful to point out, has not taken place
in Central London, where the population diminished
by 7 '8 per cent, during the last decade, but is
entirely due to the building operations in the
suburbs. In the Central area, which includes the
districts of St. George's Hanover Square, West-
minster, Marylebone, St. Giles's, the Strand, Hol-
born, the City, Shoreditch, Whitechapel, and St.
George's-in-the-East, the number of ' inhabited '
houses has diminished by 6,388 during the last ten
years, while 3,045 houses have been transferred to
the list of houses not occupied at night, and used
as places of business, and the progressive decrease
of the population sleeping on the premises points
to the probability that if office, warehouse, and
shop space becomes as valuable in the western half
of this area as it is in the City, the time will arrive

when it will, as far as a resident population is con-
cerned, be relegated to the class of uninhabited
districts." The census of 1891 showed that in the
intervening ten years the decrease in the Central
area had continued.

But notwithstanding the alarm which politicians
and legislators have at various times e.xpressed,
and perhaps felt, at its growth, London has con-
stantly advanced, amidst all impediments and
interruptions, to its present gigantic size ; and,
what is more, it still continues to advance. Con-
jecture scarcely dares to fix its limits, for every
succeeding year we see some waste ground in the
suburbs covered with dwellings, some httle village
or hamlet in the suburbs united by a continuous
street to the great metropolis ; until what once,
and that at no remote period, was a portion of its
environs now forms an integral part of one great
and compact city, likely to verify the prediction of
James I. that " England will shortly be London,
and London England."

London, then, may well be termed " Babylon
the Great ; " for even if we accept the statements
of Herodotus without any discount, the circuit of
ancient Babylon, with its palaces and hanging
gardens, was only 120 stadia, or furlongs; and it
reckoned its inhabitants only by myriads, or tens
of thousands, and not by millions. Yet the great
aggregate of houses called London must now be
larger by far than that of ancient Babylon ; and
at the last census, as we have said, the men,
women, and children who live within " Greater
London " exceeded five and a half million souls.

With such a vast and varied population before
us, it may be of interest to pass for a moment to
the commissariat department, and glance at the
food supply for this "noble army" of Londoners,
the supply of bread, water, and gas, and the various
other domestic and social arrangements whereby it
" lives and moves and has its being."

In the Middle Ages, as we learn from Stow, the
citizens of London were mainly dependent for
their daily bread on the bakers of Stratford-le-Bow,
who seem to have enjoyed the privilege of bringing
their " long carts laden with bread " into the City.
But in respect of our supply of bread, as well as in
other branches of commerce, free trade has long
prevailed. A few years ago there were some
350 corn -merchants engaged in supplying the
metropolis with corn and grain, about 250 corn
and flour factors, about 500 corn-dealers, about 150
millers, 2,500 bakers, and .some 1,300 confectioners.
Kent, Essex, Norfolk, and Suffolk have always
contributed very largely towards supplying London
with corn and grain ; but since the introduction of

572

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[General Remarks.

Free Trade, under the administration of Sir Robert
Peel, great quantities of corn are brought from
foreign parts. Of the average quantities of corn
which change hands in the London market, as
well as the regulations enforced in conducting the
business, ample details will be found in our notice
of the Corn Exchange.* Of meat and vegetables
we have already spoken at some length in our
accounts f of the Metropolitan Meat and Cattle
Markets, Covent Garden, and other places set
apart for these articles of daily consumption.

The water supply of London is a subject which
has long engaged the serious attention of the
Legislature, and frequent official reports are issued,
under the auspices of the Local Government Board,
with respect to the quality of the water supplied by
the several Metropolitan Water Companies. As
to its quantity, it will be sufficient to state that the
water used in London for the purposes of drinking,
washing, street-cleansing, and the extinction of
fires, amounts to about iSo,ooo,ooo gallons daily,
supplied by eight different companies.^

Our metropolitan water supply is apparently
well watched by a paternal government. An
official report is made monthly by an official in-
spector as to the condition of the "intake," the
filter-beds, and the volume of supply of each com-
pany. The water is also analysed monthly by
duly-qualified public analysts. A yearly report, by
the auditor of the accounts, is likewise made to the
County Council as to the fiscal condition of each
undertaking. Of late years a movement has grown
up for municipalising the water supply of the
metropolis, and in 1891 an agreement on the
subject was arrived at between the London County
Council and the City Corporation.

Herodotus was thought to be telling fables when
he recorded the story of the Xanthus and other
rivers in Thrace being dried up by the thirsty souls
who composed the invading army of Xerxes ; but
when we state that in 1891 the average daily con-
sumption of water in London was 179,951,481
gallons, it would almost appear that we are by
degrees drifting into a condition when we shall
be in danger of drying up our own rivers by the
same means. "What other city in the world," it
has been asked, " has provided for the comfort,
direct or indirect, oieach individual oi its population,
a daily supply of so many gallons of this chief
article of life?" The contrast is indeed striking
between this state of things and the ancient con-
duits which doled out water in retail ! A\'hcther,

•See Vol II., pp. I79-I83. * See Vols. 11., p. 491 ; IU.,p.a39; V.,p.3;6.
J See Vol. v., p. 238.

therefore, there is any truth or not in the statement
of Herodotus respecting the rivers of Thrace, we
may certainly assert that in London we have ex-
hausted our rivers, though in another way ; for at
all events one river has disappeared during the last
quarter of a century by the drying up of the Fleet,*
which in former times wound sluggishly down from
the northern heights of Hampstead, and mingled
its slimy contents with the '^silvery" Thames.

Since the introduction of gas for lighting the
streets of London, nearly a century ago, of which
we have spoken in our account of Pall Mall,t both
the demand and supply have been on a par with
the increase of the population. And at last, the
electric light is being adopted by the public author-
ities, who in this matter have lagged strangely
behind private enterprise.

London affords, in practice as well as theory, a
good example to other towns in the removal of
street refuse and sewage matter. Since the es-
tablishment of the old General Board of Health
the metropolis has, in this respect, taken and kept
the lead. From and after the year 1847 'he
abolition of cesspools and the drainage of houses
into the sewers had been made compulsor}', and
upwards of 30,000 cesspools were so abolished
in the space of six years. But the evil was only
transferred, not removed, for all the sewers by
which the cesspools were superseded flowed
directly into the Thames ; the result was that in
about ten years from the commencement of this
reform the foulness of the river became unbear-
able, and measures were taken for the construction
of a system of main-drainage, by means of which
the sewage is conveyed to a more harmless
distance. Of this system of drainage we have
already spoken at length in our chapter on
"Underground London."! By this system, called
the London Main Drainage Works, is ctfected the
removal of the sewage of a population numbering
over four millions, packed within an area of 117
square miles. This is conducted to Crossness,
fourteen miles below London Bridge, and there dis-
charged. Some years ago it was alleged on the part
of the Conservancy Board that the matter in suspen-
sion was forming a deposit off the outlet, which not
only had a tendency to occasion sanitary evils, but
also threatened in some degree to interfere with the
navigation. The engineer of the works, the late Sir
Joseph Bazalgette, maint.nined, in reply, that instead
of causing obstruction or offensive deposit, the
effect of the outflow at Crossness was to scour the

' See Vols. H., p. 418: V., p. 134. f Sec Vol. IV., p. 137.
t See Vol. v., pp. 233-241.

General Remarks.]

MUD AND DUST.

573

channel, the estuarian deposit in that part of the
river having been considerably reduced in quantity
between 1867 and 1885, during which period
systematic soundings had been taken by order of
the board. Subsequent experience, however, has
shown that this was a highly optimistic view, and
it is now generally admitted that while the drainage
of London is efficient in a high degree, the
problem of satisfactorily disposing of the sewage
has yet to be solved.

From speaking of its sewers, our thoughts natur-
ally pass to the mud and dust of London. In a
previous volume we have made mention of the
ash-mounds that were once to be seen in the neigh-
bourhood of King's Cross,* the hidden treasures
of some of which may perhaps have suggested to
Charles Dickens the character of the " Golden
Dustman," in his work entitled " Our Mutual
Friend." That a great deal more is consigned
to the dust-bin than needs be, in the shape of
" waste," there is little doubt ; indeed, M. Soyer
used to say that he could feed 100,000 people
daily in London with what is thrown into the dust-
holes of the vast city.

It is often said that every man in his lifetime
eats a peck at least of dirt ; but the Londoner, in
all probability, swallows much more than a bushel,
if there be truth in the following statement, which
we find seriously made in the Quarterly Review
not many years ago : — " The 300,000 houses of
London are interspaced by a street surface averag-
ing about forty-four square yards per house, and
therefore measuring collectively about thirteen and
a quarter million square yards, of which a large
proportion is paved with granite. Upwards of
200,000 pairs of wheels, aided by a considerably
larger number of iron-shod horses' feet, are con-
stantly grinding this granite to powder, which
powder is mixed with from two to ten cart-loads
of horse-droppings per mile of street per diem,
besides an unknown quantity of the sooty deposits
discharged from half a million of smoking chim-
neys. In wet weather these several materials are
beaten up into the thin, black, gruel-like compound
known as London mud ; of which the watery and
gaseous parts are evaporated, during sunshine, into
the air we breathe, while the solid particles dry
into a subtle dust, whirled up in clouds by the
■wind and the horses' feet. These dust-clouds are
deposited on our rooms and furniture ; on our
skins, our lips, and on the air-tubes of our lungs.
The close stable-like smell and flavour of the
London air, the rapid soiling of our hands, our

• See Vol. II., p. 2

linen, and the hangings of our rooms, bear ample
witness to the reality of this evil, of which every
London citizen may find a further and more
significant indication in the dark hue of the
particles deposited by the dust-laden air in its
passage through the nasal respiratory channels.
To state this matter plainly, and without mincing
words, there is not at this moment a man in London,
however scrupulously clean, nor a woman, however
sensitively delicate, whose skin and clothes and
nostrils are not of necessity more or less loaded
with a compound of powdered granite, soot, and
still more nauseous substances. The particles
which to-day fly in clouds before the scavenger's
broom, fiy in clouds before the parlour-maid's
brush, and next darken the water in our toilet-
basins, or are wrung by the laundress from our
calico and cambric."

Of the ninety-eight parish churches within the
walls of the City at the time of the Great Fire of
1666, only thirteen escaped the general havoc
which was made by the conflagration. Of those
destroyed — eighty-five in number — about fifty were
rebuilt, several others being united to those of
other parishes. Pepys, in his " Diary," under date
of Jan. 7, 1667-8, makes the following singular
remarks concerning the churches destroyed in the
fire : — ■" It is observed, and is true, in the late Fire
of London that the fire burned just as many parish
churches as there were hours from the beginning
to the end of the fire ; and next, that there were
just as many churches left standing in the rest of
the City that was not burned, being, I think,
thirteen in all of each ; which is pretty to observe.'
Of late years, even during the progress of this work,
several of the City churches have been swept away,
the parishes to which they belonged being united
to others, under Act of Parliament. The churches
now standing in the City are about eighty in all ;
and there are considerably more than 1,000 in the
entire metropolis, the sacred edifices in the suburbs
having been much more than doubled since the
accession of Queen Victoria.

It is refreshing to know that suffering humanity
is not forgotten in this " great world of London " ;
and some idea of the benevolence of Londoners
may be gathered from the fact that there are some
seventy general hospitals for the relief and treat-
ment of the various "ills that flesh is heir to."
Besides these, there are scores of other charitable
institutions of a special kind, such as dispensaries,
invalid and convalescent hospitals, lunatic asylums,
homes and refuges ; institutions for the blind, for
the deaf and dumb, for incurables, for nurses, for re-
lief of distress, for gentlewomen, for needlewomen, for

574

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

[General Remarks.

widows, for infants, for orphans, for the protection
of women, for emigration, for employment, for
labouring classes, for the benefit of the clergy,
dissenting ministers, Jews, soldiers, sailors, dis-
charged prisoners, and debtors ; and, lastly,
penitentiaries for women. We may add that the
average number of paupers in the metropolis shows
a marked tendency to decrease. Thus in 1890 it
was 107,343, against 108,788 in 1889. On the
last day of the second week of November, 1891,
the actual number (excluding lunatics in asylums
and vagrants) was 90,827, against 92,048 on the
corresponding day in 1890.

In such a vast area as London, theatres and
other places of amusement are capable of con-
taining and aifording entertainment to thousands
of the inhabitants. First are the three patent
theatres, Drury Lane, Covent Garden, and (in the
summer) the Haymarket ; the only jurisdiction the
Lord Chamberlain has over these is that he can
close them in case of riot or misbehaviour. Then
there are nearly 40 theatres licensed by the Lord
Chamberlain, and six licensed by the County
Council in parts of the metropolis outside his
jurisdiction. A Select Committee on London
Theatres, which sat in 1892, recommended that
the Lord Chamberlain's jurisdiction should in
future extend over all theatres in all parts of the
metropolis, but nothing has yet been done to give
effect to this suggestion. The music halls of
London number several hundreds, and appear to
be growing in popularity, in spite of the vigilant
control exercised over them by the licensing
authority, the London County Council. Several
of these are now run by limited liability companies,
to whom they yield enormous dividends.

A few years ago there was occasion to lament
the paucity of parks and open spaces in London,
compared with Paris and some other European
capitals ; but this deficiency is being gradually
supplied. Among the principal of such open
spaces are the following, in alphabetical order : —
Barnes Common, 100 acres; Battersea Park, 198
acres ; Blackheath, 267 acres ; Brockwell Park,
78 acres; Ciapham Common, 220 acres; Clissold
Park, 53 acres ; Dulwich Park, 72 acres; Epping
Forest, 5,348 acres; Finsbury Park, 115 acres ; the
Green Park, 54 acres; Greenwich Park, 185 acres;
Hackney Downs, 41 acres ; Hackney Marshes, 345
acres ; Hampstead Heath and Parliament Hill, 505
acres; Highgate Woods, 70 acres: Hyde I'ark,
361 acres ; Kennington Park, 20 acres ; Kensington
Gardens, 275 acres; Peckham Rye, 112 acres;
Plumslead Common, 100 acres; Primrose Hill,
50 acres; Ravenscourt Park, 32 acres; Regent's

Park, 470 acres ; St. James's Park, 93 acres ;
Southwark Park, 63 acres ; Streatham Common,
66 acres; Tooting Beck Common, 134 acres;
Victoria Embankment Gardens, 14 acres; Victoria
Park, 300 acres ; Wandsworth Common, 183
acres; Wanstead Park, 182 acres; Waterlow Park,
Highgate Hill, 30 acres ; West Ham Park, 80
acres ; Wimbledon Common and Green, and
Putney Common and Heath, 1,412 acres; Worm-
wood Scrubs, 193 acres.

The great metropolis, then, being such as we
have portrayed it, there have never been wanting
those who have felt towards London and its neigh-
bourhood an attraction which nothing could destroy.
These, of course, have been the persons in whom
the social qualities have predominated. Such, in
their day, were Horace Walpole, Dr. Johnson,
Samuel Rogers, and Macaulay ; and such, too,
were Leigh Hunt, Thackeray, and Dickens. Away
from London and its surroundings such men would
have been lost ; here they found their respective
metiers. The Boswellian reasons for Dr. John-
son's love of London are of general apphcability.
" Johnson," he writes, " was much attached to
London ; he observed that a man stored his mind
better there than anywhere else ; and that in
remote situations a man's body might be feasted,
but his mind was starved, and his faculties apt to
degenerate, from want of exercise and competition.
No place, too, he said, cured a man's vanity or
arrogance so well as London ; for as no man was
either great or good per se, but as compared with
others not so good or great, he was sure to find in
the metropolis many his equals, and some his
superiors."

It would be almost as easy to cull from English
writers a long chain of passages in praise of London
as of others written in praise of country scenes.
Thus Dr. Johnson remarks : " The happiness of
London is not to be conceived but by those who
have resided in it. I will venture to say there is
more learning and science within the circumference
of ten miles from where we now sit than in all the
rest of the kingdom. The only disadvantage is
the great distance at which people live from one
another. But that is occasioned by the very large-
ness of London, which is the cause of all the other
advantages." If Dr. Johnson could speak thus of
the metropolis when its population was under a
million, what would he have said now, when we
number nearly five million souls within a radius of
//■u miles from Charing Cross ? Again, the burly
doctor thus philosophises on the same subject in a
homely and ])racli(-al strain ; — " l^ondon is nothing
to some people but to a man whose pleasure is

General Remnrks.]

THE ATTRACTIONS OF LONDON.

575

intellectual London is the place. And there is
no place where economy can be so well practised as
in London : more can be had here for the money,
even by ladies, than anywhere else. You cannot
play tricks w'th your fortune in a small place ; you
must make an uniform appearance. Here a lady
may have well-furnished apartments and an elegant
dress without any meat in her kitchen."

The same opinion is expressed somewhat more
bluntly by " Jack " Bannister :— " I have lived too
long (he observes) in London, from early life to
the present time, to like the country much ; you
cannot shake off old habits and acquire new ones.
1 must die (please God !) where I have lived so
long. Kemble once said to me, ' Depend on it.
Jack, when you pass Hyde Park Corner you leave
your comforts behind you.' Experientia docet!
London for beef, fish, poultry, vegetables too ; in
the country you get ewe-mutton, cow-beef, and in
general very indifferent veal. London is the great
market of England. Why ? Because it abounds
in customers ; and I believe you may live as cheap
in London, and nobody know anything about you,
as anywhere else. I delight in the country occa-
sionally ; but London is your best retirement after
long industry and labour."

London has also, in an eminent degree, the great
attraction of personal independence and freedom
from the eyes of censorious and inquisitive neigh-
bours. This is well drawn out by Bosv/ell, who
writes : — " I was amused by considering with how
much ease and coolness he (Dr. Johnson) could
write or talk to a friend, exhorting him not to sup-
pose that happiness was not to be found as well in
other places as in London ; when he himself was
at all times sensible of its being, comparatively
speaking, a heaven upon earth. The truth is, that
by those who from sagacity, attention, and ex-
perience have learnt the full advantage of London,
its pre-eminence over every other place, not only
for variety of enjoyment, but for comfort, will he
felt with a philosophical exultation. The freedom
from remark and petty censure with which life may
be passed there is a circumstance which a man
who knows th.e teasing restraint of a narrow circle
must relish highly. Edmund Burke, whose orderly
and amiable domestic habits might make the eye of
observation less irksome to him than to most men,
said once, very pleasantly, in my hearing, ' Though
I have the honour to represent Bristol, I should
not like to live there ; I should be obliged to be so
much upon my good behaviour.' In London, a man
may live in splendid society at one time, and in
frugal retirement at another, without animadversion.
There, and there alone, a man's own house is truly

his castle., in which he can be in perfect safety
from intrusion whenever he pleases. I never shall
forget how well this was expressed to me one day
by Mr. Meynell : ' The chief advantage of London,"
said he, ' is that a man is always so near his
burrow.' "

But there are other writers of authority besides
Johnson whose testimonies in praise of London
deserve to be quoted here ; for instance. Lord
Macaulay, who writes to a friend : " London is the
place for me. Its smoky atmosphere and muddy
river charm me more than the pure air of Hert-
fordshire and the crystal currents of the Rib.
Nothing is equal to the splendid varieties of
London life, the ' fine flow of London talk,' and
the dazzling brilliancy of London spectacles."

Again, we may summon Leigh Hunt, who writes
in his " Table Talk " : " London is not a poetical
place to look at ; but surely it is poetical in the
very amount and comprehensiveness of its enor-
mous experience of pleasure and pain. ... It
is one of the great giant representatives of mankind,
with a huge beating heart, and much of its vice
and misery ... is but one of the forms of the
movement of a yet unsteadied progression, trying
to balance things, and not without its reliefs."

We have said that to the man of intellectual
culture London has attractions beyond all other
places. Nor is this position better illustrated and
enforced than in the inexhaustible Bosvvell : — " Of
London, Johnson observed, 'Sir, if you wish to
have a just notion of the magnitude of the city, you
must not be satisfied with seeing its great streets
and squares, but must survey the innumerable
litde lanes and courts. It is not in the showy
evolutions of buildings, but in the multiplicity
of human habitations which are crowded together,
that the wonderful immensity of London consists.
' I have often amused myself,' adds Boswell, ' with
thinking how different a place London is to different
people. They whose narrow minds are contracted
to the consideration of some one particular pursuit
view it only through that medium. A politician
thinks of it merely as the seat of government in
its different departments ; a grazier, as a vast
market for cattle ; a mercantile man, as a place
where a prodigious deal of business is done upon
'Change ; a dramatic enthusiast, as the grand scene
of theatrical entertainments ; a man of pleasure, as
an assemblage of taverns, and the great emporium
for ladies of easy virtue ; but the intellectual man
is struck with it, as comprehending the whole of
human life in all its variety, the contemplation of
which is inexhaustible.' '

Charles Dickens, too, is not far behind his

576

OLD AND NSW LONDON.

[Conclusion.

compeers in his love of London. Its society and life
was " meat and drink " to him— that on which he
always set his heart most strongly, in spite of his
love for Gad's Hill. Even when spending the
winter in bright and sunny Genoa, he could write
home to his friends, " Put me down on Waterloo
Bridge at eight o'clock in the evening, with leave
to roam about as long as I like, and I would come
home, as you know." In the same spirit, he wrote
again, at a later date : " For a week or a fortnight
I can write prodigiously in a retired place, as at
Broadstairs ; and then a day in London sets me up
again and starts me. But the toil and the labour
of writing day after day without that magic-lantern
(London) is immense."

It would be almost a sin not to add, by way of
conclusion to these testimonies to London's cha-
racter, the merry and good-humoured lines of
Captain Morris, the "Laureate of the Beef-steak
Club " :— *

" In London I never knew what to be at,

Enraptured with this and enchanted with that ;
I'm wild with the sweets of variety's plan,
And life seems a blessing too happy for man.
* * * *

" In town let me live, then in town let me die.
For in truth I can't relish the country, not I.
If one must have a villa in summer to dwell.
Oh, give me the sweet shady side of Pall Mall ! "

• See Vol. III., p. ii8.

THE END.

GENERAL INDEX

Abbey Mill Pumping Station, v. 572.

Abbot's Inn, Southwark, vi. 104.

A'Becket, Thomas, Archbishop, i. 377,
382; vi. 117.

A'Beckett, Gilbert Abbot, his contribu-
tions to Punch, i. 57, 58.

Aberdeen, Earl of, iii. 425 ; iv. 243.

Abemethy, Dr., anecdotes of, ii. 361.

Abershaw, Jerry, executed, vi. 335,

497- . , ^

Abingdon Street, Westminster, iii. 563 ;

"Lindsay Lane;" Lindsay House,

iv. 2.
Abington, Mrs., actress, iv. 136.
Abney Park ; cemetery ; v. 544 ;

cedars, 537, 543.
Abney, Sir Thos., Lord Mayor, and

Lady Abney, patrons of Dr. Watts,

i. 406 ; V. 540.
Achilles, Statue of, Hyde Park, iv. 364,

395-

Achilley, Sir Roger, Lord Mayor, his
funeral, i. 519.

Acrobats at Astle/s Amphitheatre, vi.
4cx>.

Actors at fairs, vi. 58, 59-

Adam, Messrs., architects, iii. 105 ; iv.
448, 450, 473 ; v. 442.

Adam Street, iii. :o6.

Adam, William, his " Northern Ale-
house," i. 272.

" Adam and Eve " Court, iv. 455.

"Adam and Eve" public-house, Ken-
sington, v. 137.

"Adam and Eve" Tavern, Marylebone
Road ; Hogarth's " March to Finch-
ley," iv. 4S2 ; V. 303 ; cakes and
cream ; pugilism, 304 ; menagerie,
cold bath ; Eden Street, 305.

Adams, Jack, a Clerkenwell simpleton,

"• 332-
Adams, Sir Thos., Lord Mayor, i. 404.
Addison, i. 41, 70, 71, 502 ; ii. 89 ;

iii. 27, 65, 276, 277, 431, 440; iv.

104, 141, 153, 166, 170, 218; V.

126, 13S, 144, 165, 166; vi. 448.
Addison Road, v. 161.
Addle Hill, ii. 35.
Addle Street, Wood Street ; Brewers'

Hall, i. 374.
Adelaide Gallery, iii. 134.
Adelaide, Queen, iv. 134.
Adelphi Terrace, iii. 106, 294.
Adelphi, The ; built by Messrs. Adam ;

the dark arches, iii. 106.
Adelphi Theatre, iii. 1 19.
"Admiral Keppel " Tavern, v. 99.
Admiralty state barge, iii. 309 : vi. 197.
Admiralty, The, iii. 383 — 3S6.
Adult Orphan Institution, Regent's

Park, V. 275.
Agar ToHTi ; "Councillor Agar," v.

368, 369-
^^r Newspaper, iv. 251.
289— N.E.

Aged Pilgrims' Friend Asylum, v. 395.

Aged Pilgrims' Friend Society, vi. 278.

Aggas's Map of London, iii. 160, 168 ;
vi. 384, 414.

Agricultural Hall, Islington, ii. 261.

Aikin, Dr. John, v. 538.

Aikin, Lucy, v. 476.

Ailesbury House, Leicester Square, iii.
162.

Ainsworth, W. Harrison, his novel of
"Jack Sheppard,"' ii. 459; his
description of the old view of London
from Stamford Hill, v. 544 ; of the
sports on Tottenham Green, 550.

Air of London, iv. 394.

Air Street, iv. 309.

Airy, Sir G. B., Astronomer Royal, v.
131, 132; vi. 215.

Aislabie, Chancellor of the Exchequer ;
the South Sea Bubble, i. 541, 542.

Akenside, iii. 65 ; iv. 256 ; v. 448.

Akerman, keeper of Newgate, i. 62 ;
ii. 442 ; evidence on the state of
Newgate, ii. 449 ; fire in prison ; his
care of the prisoners, 458 ; vi. 347.

Albany Street ; Guards' barracks, v.
299.

Albany, The, iv. 258.

Albemarle Club, iv. 296.

Albemarle, Duchess of; Newcastle
House, Clerkenwell, ii. 331.

Albemarle, Duke o£ (See Monk,
General.)

Albemarle Street, iv. 293 ; Duke of
Albemarle ; Sir Thomas Bond ;
John Murray, ib. ; Grillon's Hotel ;
Royal Thames Yacht Club ; Gril-
lon's Club, 295 ; Royal Institution,
296 ; St. George's Chapel, 297.

Albert Bridge, Chelsea, v. 67 ; vi. 473.

Albert Embankment, vi. 422.

Albert Gate, Hyde Park, iv. 395 ; v. 21.

Albert Hall of Arts and Sciences,
Royal, v. 112, 113, 114.

Albert Memorial, v. 38.

Albert, Prince, ii. 530; v. 112, 116;
vi. 197, 249, 250.

Albert Road, Peckham, vi. 286.

Albion Archers, vi. 328.

Albion Dock, vi. 141.

Albion Flour Mills, vi. 382.

Albion Newspaper, i. 45.

"Albion" Tavern, Aldersgate Street,
ii. 226.

" Albion " Tavern, Russell Street, iii.
279.

Aldermanbury ; the Old Guildhall, i.

383-

Aldermen, Court of, i. 3S8.

Aldersgate Street, ii. 208 ; Alders Gate ;
rebuilt (161S), :^.; inscriptions, 209;
rooms of the City Crier ; General
Post Office, ib.; St. Martin's Col-
lege, 215; curfew ; crypt ; New

Post Office ; Telegraph Depart-
ment, ib. ; St. Martin's-le-Grand,
219 ; Sanctuary ; St. Martin's lace ;
mansions of the Nevilles and Percys ;
Milton; "Bull and Mouth," ib.;
Shaftesbury House, 220 ; St. Bo-
tolph's Church, 221 ; Shakespeare's
House, ib. ; house of Sir Nicholas
Bacon ; Earl of Peterborough ;
Swift's verses, 226 ; Duke of Mont-
agu ; " Bell" Inn, 227.

Aldgate, ii. 246; the Gate; attacked by
Falconbridge, ib. ; conduit, 247 ;
Chaucer's residence ; prison ; Duke's
Place ; Priory of Holy Trinity ;
Jews' synagogue, ib.

Aldridge's Horse Repository, iii. 158.

Ale, Dorchester, v. 46.

"Ale of Southwark ;" Chaucer; Bar-
clay and Perkins's Brewery, vi. 33.

Alexandra Hotel, v. 8.

Alexandra Institute for the Blind,
iv. 555.

AlexandraOrphanage, Highgate, v. 395.

Alexandra Palace, v. 435 ; a Northern
"Crystal Palace ;" materials of the
Exhibition of 1862 utilised ; con-
struction and decorations ; organ ;
concert-room and theatre ; land-
slips ; Palace opened, ib. ; destroyed
by fire ; New Palace ; park ; race-
course ; trotting-ring ; Japanese
village ; circus ; grove ; view from
terrace, 435.

Alfieri, his duel with Lord Ligonier,
iv. 178.

Alford, Rev. H., Dean of Canterbur)',
iv. 409.

"Alfred Club," iv. 296.

Alfred, King, i. 449.

Alfred Place, iv. 567.

Alhambra Palace Theatre, iii. l58.

Allen, Ralph ; improvements in the
General Post Office, ii. 209.

Allen, Alderman, i. 416.

Allen, Ralph, ii. 209.

Alleyn, Edward, i. 302; ii. 159, 224;
biographical sketch of AUeyne, and
history of Dulwich College, vi. 292 ;

296-303. 332-
AUeyn's Almshouses, Soap Yard,

Southwark, vi. 33.
AUhallows the Great Church, ii. 40.
AUhallows Barking Church, ii. 107,

109 ; monumental brasses, 109 ;

legend of Edward I. ; pilgrimages,

no.
AUhallows' Church, Bread Street;

Milton's baptism, i. 350.
AUhallows Church, Bromley, v. 575.
AUhallows Church, Honey Lane, i. 376.
AUhallows-in-the-Hay, ii. 17.
AllhaUows-in-the-Wall Church, ii. 167.
AUhallows Staining Church, Mark

578

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

Lane, ii. 178 ; Plague, 1606 and

1665 ; churchwardens' books, 179.
All Saints' Church and Schools, Lower

Marsh, Lambeth, vi. 416.
All Saints' Church, Blackheath, vi. 228.
All Saints' Church, Deptford i^ower

Road, vi. 137.
All Saints' Church, Margaret Street, iv.

461.
All Souls' Church, Portland Place, iv.

455-
Almack's, iv. 196.
" Almack's Club," iv. 136.
Almanacs, i. 230 ; vi. 442.
Almonry, The, Westminster ; Caxton's

printing-press; iii. 488, 489.
Alphege, Archbishop, vi. 164, 191.
Alphege, St., Mission College, vi. 373.
Alsatia, a sanctuary in Whitefriars, i.

155. 179. 1S3. 189.
Alvanley, Lord, iv. 162.
" Amazone," or riding-habit, iv. 3S2.
Ames, Joseph, antiquary, ii. 136.
Amphitryon Club, iv. 296.
Ampthill Square, v. 309.
Anaoaptists, i. 243, 370, 371.
Anatomical School, Piccadilly ; Sir C.

Bell, iv. 236.
"Anchor of St. Clement's," iii. 33, 75.
Anderson, hanged for stealing a six-
pence, ii.449.
"Anderton's Hotel," Fleet Street, i. 53.
Andre, Major, iii. 421 ; v. 522.
Andrewes, Bishop of Winchester, ii. 29 ;

iii. 459 ; his tomb, vi. 22, 23, 30.
Anerley ; tea-gardens ; Croydon Canal ;

vi. 314.
"Angel" Inn, Highgate, v. 418.
"Angel" Inn, Islington, ii. 261.
"Angel" Inn, St. Giles's, iii. 200.
Angell, John ; College at Stockwell ;

Angell Town Estate, vi. 329.
Angefctein, J. Julius, his pictures pur-
chased for the nation, iii. 145 ; vi.

230.
Anne of Bohemia, Queen of Richard

II., i. 316; iii. 309, 442; vi. 9,

442.
Anne of Cleves, Queen of Henry VIII.,

vi. 170, 226.
Anne of Denmark, Queen of James I.,

iii. 90.
Anne, Queen, i. 250, 264 ; ii. 104, 369 ;

iii. 208, 315, 368, 437 ; iv. 42,

53, 102, 129, I3>. 423. 554; V.

'53; "Queen Anne's Palace,"

Bromley, iii. 575.
Anstis, John, Garter, i. 298.
Anthony, Dr., his "aurum potabile,"

ii. 356.
Anthropological Institute, iii. 155.
" Anti-Gallican " Tavern, Shire Lane,

i. 74.
Anti-Jacobin, iv. 257.
Antiquaries, Society of, iv. 269.
Antwerp, its trade with England temp.

Elizabeth, i. 525.
Apollo Club at the " Devil Tavern," i.

39-

" Apollo Gardens," St. George's Fields,
vi- 343. 389.

Apothecaries' Company, v. 68.

Apothecaries' Hall ; controversy be-
tween physicians and apothecaries,
i. 215.

Apprentices, City; riots; fees; punish-
ments; pancake- fea.st, i. 32, 194,

305. 309. 3 'I.. 359. 399. S'9-
Apricots, iii. 77 ; vi. 334.

Apsley House, iv. 359 ; George II. ;
Allen's apple-stall, I'lJ.; Lord Apsley,
361 ; house settled on the Duke of
Wellington, 362 ; Waterloo Gallery;
Duke's bedroom ; pictures ; Reform
Bill riots ; iron blinds, il>.; Water-
loo banquets, 363 ; George IV. ;
Stothard's Waterloo shield ; Run-
dell and Bridge, ii. ; the Duke's
death, 364.

Apsley, Sir Allan ; his tomb, ii. 92.

Aquarium, Royal, Westminster, iv. 20.

Arabella Row, v. 9.

Arabin, General, iv. 97.

Arbuthnot, John, M.D., iv. 309; v.

473-

Archteological Institute, iv. 315.

Archers, Slarch of the, i. 536.

Archery, v. 527 ; vi. 255, 304, 328,
343 ; bowyers and fletcliers in
Grub Street, ii. 241 ; in Islington
Fields, 251, 254 ; " The Bowman's
Glory," 338.

Arches, Court of, i. 285, 2S7 ; vi. 442.

Architectural Association, iv. 323.

Architectural Museum, Westminster,
iv. 36.

"Archway Tavern," Upper HoUoway,
iv. 381.

"Areopagus" of the Christian Evi-
dence Society, i. 549.

Argyll Lodge, Kensington, v. 133.

Argyll Rooms, Regent Street ; Nash ;
lady patronesses ; Velluti; Chabert,
the " fire king," iv. 243, 317.

Argyll Rooms, Windmill Street, Hay-
market, iv. 237.

Argyll Square, King's Cross ; New
Jerusalem Church, iv. 576.

Argyll Street, Regent Street, iv. 242 ;
Sir Joseph Banks ; Northcote ;
Madame de Stael, ib. ; the " good "
Lord Lyttelton, 243 ; Argyll House ;
Earl of Aberdeen ; Corinthian
Bazaar ; Hengler's Circus ; Little
Argyll Street, ib.

Arianism at Salters' Hall Chapel, i.

549-
Arlington House, v. 39.
Arlington Street, Piccadilly, iv. 169,

179, 260.
Armada, Defeat of Ihe, celebrated in

St. Paul's, i. 245.
Armenia; Leo, King of, i. 551 ; vi. 237.
Armorial bearings. Lord Thurlow on,

iv. 557.
Armorial bearings of London and

Southwark, vi. 14.
Armorial bearings. (See Heralds' Col-
lege.)
Armouries in the Tower. (A'/ Tower.)
Arms and Armour, at United Service

Museum, iii. 335.
Armstrong, Archibald, Charles I.'s

Jester, iii. 353.
Army and Navy Club, iv. 144.
Army Clothing Club, iv. 40.
Arne, Dr., iv. 435, 436.
Ameway, Thomas, iii. 568.
Arno's Grove, Southgate, v. 569.
Arthur, Prince, son of Henry VIII.,

i. 241.
Arthur's Club House, iv. 156.
Artillery Company ; archers' privileges,

ii. 254.
Artillery Ground ; Trained Bands, ii.

161 ; .Skippon, captain of the

Artillery Garden, 198 ; v. 249.
Artillery Hall, Horsclydown, vi. 113.

Artists' Club, iii. 41.

Artists' General Benevolent Institution,
iv. 300.

Artists' Orphan Fund, iv. 300.

Arts Club, iv. 316.

Arundel Club, iii. loi.

Arundel House, Fulham Road, vi. 518.

Arundel House, Highgate, v. 401 ;
Earls of Arundel ; Comwallis
family ; Queen Elizabeth ; James I.,
ib. ; Arabella Stuart, 402 ; death of
Lord Bacon, 404.

Arundel House, Strand, iii. 71 ; Bishops
of Bath and Wells ; Earl of Arundel ;
the "Arundelian Marbles," ib. ;
Dukes of Norfolk, 73 ; formation
of Norfolk, Arundel, Howard, and
Surrey Streets, 71, 74.

Arundel Society, iv. 300.

Arundel Street, iii. 74 ; famous resi-
dents ; "Crown and Anchor"
Tavern ; the " King of Clubs ;"
Whittington Club ; Temple Club,

75-

Arundell Street, Haymarket, iv. 233.

Ascham, Roger, i. 225 ; ii. 479.

Ashby Street, Clerkenwell, ii. 333 ;
mansion of the Spencers ; private
madhouse ; Brothers, the prophet, ib.

Ashbumham House, Chelsea, v. 86.

Ashbumham House, Westminster Ab-
bey, iii. 457.

Ashburton, John Dunning, Lord, i.
166 ; vi. "528.

Ashburton, Lord, iv. 284.

Ashmole, Elias, i. 75, 298 ; vi. 334,
446.

Aske, Robert ; Haberdashers' Alms-
houses and Schools, Hoxton, v. 525.

Askew, Anne, her trial and execution,

•• 394-

Askew, Dr., ii. 362, 433 ; v. 474.

Astley, John, painter and "beau," iv.
124.

Astley, Philip, iii. 35 ; vi. 398 — 404.

Astley's Amphitheatre, vi. 398 ; Philip
Astley, il>.; first equestrian per-
formances, 400 ; General Elliott's
horse ; Riding School ; first amphi-
theatre ; Astley, jun. ; " Egj-ptian
Pyramids," ib., "Royal Grove;"
Astley in Paris and Dublin ; his
patriotism, 401 ; circus burnt down,
402; rebuilt as "Amphitheatre of
Arts ; " Astley a dkenu in Paris ;
his escape ; another fire, ib. : rebuilt
as the " Royal Amphitheatre," 403 ;
"Davis's Amphitheatre ;" "Battle
of Waterloo," 404; Belzoni, 405;
Petre and Andrew Ducrow ; Ducrow
and West ; Grimaldi, ib. ; Miss
Woolford, 406 ; fire in 1841 ; death
of Ducrow ; William Bally ; Ada
Menkens; "Mazeppa;" Bouci-
cault's " Westminster Theatre,"
ib.; Sanger ; Richard III. on horse-
back, 407.

Asparagus Garden, Banksidc, vi. 55.

Assay office ; assay master, i. 357, 358.

Assembly Rooms, Kentish Town, v.
320.

Assheton-Smith, T., v. 203.

Assize of bread, ii. 181.

Assurance Marine, "Lloyd's," i. 509;

S'3-
Astrology, modem belief in, vi. 214.
Astronomical Society, iv. 272.
Asylum for Deaf and Dumb Females,

V. i;22.

GENERAL INDEX.

579

Asylum for Female Orphans, vi. 362.

Asylum for Idiots, v. 422.

Atchelor, horse-slaughterer to the
Queen, v. 408.

Athenaeum Club, iv. 140, 147.

Athenaeum Club, Junior, iv. 286.

Atkinson-Morley Home, v. 4.

Atkinson, stock-jobber, i. 476.

Atterbury, Bishop, i. 77 ; iii. 460; v. 89.

Atterbury, Dr. Lewis, v. 433.

Auctions and Auctioneers, i. 522 ; iii.
263 ; iv. 200 ; V. 49.

Audley, Hugh ; his wealth ; North
and South Audley Streets, iv. 344.

Audley, Lord ; Cornish rebellion, vi.
143, 225.

Audley Square, iv. 345.

Audrey, Mary ; her "House of Sisters;"
priory of St. Mary Overy, South-
wark, vi. 20.

Augmentations, Court of, iii. 563.

Augusta, a Roman name of London,
i. 20, 449.

Austin Friars, ii. i65 ; priory of beg-
ging friars, 167 ; interments ; monu-
mental slabs, //'.

Austin. James, gigantic puddings, i. 561.

Authors, Royal and Court patronage of,
iv. 119.

Avenue Theatre, iii. 328.

"Axe and Cleaver" Inn, Lambeth, vi,
392-

" Axe and Crown " Inn, iv. 60.

Aylesbury Street, Clerkenwell, ii. 334 ;'
mansion of the Earls of Aylesbury ;
Thomas Britton, the musical small-
coal man, ib.

13.

Babbage, Charles, iv. 425.

Babington's Plot, iii. 45, 200.

Babylon ; its population compared with
that of "Modern Babylon," vi. 570.

Bacon, Sir F., ii. 74, 3S6, 555, 557,
S62; iii. 107, tog ; v. 404.

Bacon, sculptor, i. 387 ; iv. 466, 478.

Bacon, Sir Nicholas, ii. 531, 562.

Baddeley, comedian ; " Her Majesty's
servants ;" scarlet liveries, iii. 220.

Bagnigge Wells House, ii. 296 ; resi-
dence of Nell Gwynne, 297, 298 ;
fruit-trees and vines ; mineral
springs; "Black Mary's Hole;"
poems ; advertisements ; old paint-
ings and engravings, ib.

Bagnio, Perrault's, St. James's Street,
iv. 167.

"Bag o' Nails " public-house, v. 9.

Bagpipes, iii. 106.

Baillie, Dr., ii. 433 ; iii. 143.

Baillie, Joanna, v. 465, 481.

Baily, Francis, F.R.S., iv. 574.

Baker Street, iv. 419 ; Sir Edward
Baker, 421 ; Madame Tussaud's
Exhibition of Wax-work ; Bazaar ;
Cattle Show, ib.; Portman Chapel,
422.

Baker Street Station, Metropolitan
Railway, v. 226.

Bakers' Hall, ii. 99.

Bakers in London ; statistics, vi. 570.

Bakers, rules for buying meal, ii. 181.

Bakewell Hall, ii. 237.

Balconies ; "belconey," iii. 255, 267 ;
"belle-coney," 268.

Baldachino in Hammersmith Church,
vi. 537-

Balfe, Michael, iii. 221, 237 ; iv. 326.
Ballads printed by Catnatch, iii. 203.
" Balloon " fruit shop, Oxford Street,

'V- 245.
Balloons, iv. 434 ; v. 2, 81, 85, 86,

250, 310 ; vi. 464.
Ball's Pond ; John Ball ; the "Boarded

House ; " the pond, v. 527.
"Balm of Honey," v. 185.
Balmerino, Lord, ii. 76, 95; iii. 551 ;

iv. 469.
Balmes House, Hoxton, v. 525, 526.
Baltic Coffee House, i. 537.
Baltimore House, Russell Square, iv.

483. 564-

Bandyleg Walk, vi. 363.

Bangor, Bishops of, their house in
Shoe Lane, i. 131, 132.

Bangor Court, Shoe Lane, i. 131.

Bank of Credit, Devonshire House,
Bishopsgate, ii. 163.

Bank of England, i. 453 ; Jews, Lom-
bards, and Goldsmiths the first
bankers ; William Paterson, founder
of the Bank, ib. ; Act of Parlia-
ment, 454 ; depreciation of Bank
notes, 455 ; extension of charter,
456 ; riots ; renewals of charter ;
formation of the "rest;" the old
building; Gordon riots, 458; for-
geries of notes ; Abraham Newland ;
Sir R. Peel's Currency Bill ; Faunt-
leroy, 459 ; State lotteries ; run on
the Bank ; ;if30,ooo note lost, 460 ;
£1 notes, 461 ; frauds and panic,
464-466 ; light gold called in ; paid
notes burnt ; directors, clerks, en-
gravers, printers, 467 ; the present
Bank, 468, 470 ; court-room ; ro-
tunda ; Lothbury court ; old and
new clearing-houses, 470 ; weigh-
ing-machine for gold ; Bank-note
paper; water-mark; dividend-day,
471; "White Lady of Thread-
needle Street, "472 ; western branch,
iv. 305.

Bankes, the showman, and his trained
horse, i. 221, 376; ii. 174; vi. 58.

Banks, R.A. , sculptor, iv. 466 ; v. 208.

Banks, Sir Edward, vi. 483.

Banks, Sir Joseph, iii. 191.

"Banks, Stunning Joe ; " "Rookery,"
St. Giles's, iv. 488.

Bankruptcy Court, The, iii. 27.

Bankruptcy Court, Basinghall Street,
ii. 238.

Bankside, Southwark, vi. 41 ; Globe
Theatre, 45-47 ; Rose Theatre ; Ben
Jonson ; Hope Theatre ; Swan
Theatre, 48 ; Paris Garden ; bear-
baiting ; bull-baiting, 51 ; cock and
dog fighting ; bear-wards, 52 ; Al-
leyn, "master of the royal bear-
garden," 53 ; James I., "Book of
Sports," 54; 'he Queen's Pike-
gardens; Asparagus Garden ; Pim-
lico Garden; Tarleton ; "Tumble-
down Dick " Tavern, 56.

Banner of the City of London, i. 2S2-
284.

Bannister, Jack, iv. 567 ; vi. 575.

Banqueting House, Whitehall. [Ste
Whitehall Palace.)

Baptisterion, Horselydown ; immersion
of Anabaptists in the Thames, vi.
III.

Baptistery, Ancient, Oxford Street, iv.
440.

Barbauld, Mrs., v. 486, 534, 538.

Barber and Tooke, Queen's Printers, i.

2l8.

Barber, John, Lord Mayor; his epitaph
on Samuel Butler, i. 407.

Barbers, Barber-surgeons, and Dentists, '
vi. 63.

Barber's Barn, Hackney, v. 514.

Barbers, Female, iii. 122, 206.

Barber- Surgeons' Company and Hall,
ii. 232 ; the first hall ; rebuilt by
Inigo Jones, ib. ; Holbein's picture,
"The Presentation of the Charter
by Henry VIII.," 233 ; pictures by
Vandyck, 234 ; plate ; felons re-
suscitated after execution, 236.

Barbican on Ludgate Hill, i. 226.

Barbican, ii. 223 ; Roman watch-tower ;
distinguished residents, 224, 225.

Barclay and Perkins's Brewery, vi. 33 ;
"ale of Southwark ; " Chaucer, ib.;
Thrale ; Mrs. Thrale, 34 ; Perkins ;
Robert Barclay, 35 ; the brewery
described, 36 ; visit of Marslial
Haynau, 39.

Barclay, David, his house in Cheap-
side; royal visits, i. 324, 327 ; oak-
panelled dining-room, 338, 339.

Baretti ; his trial for murder, iv. 220,
426.

Barham, Rev. R. H.,i. 260; iv. 314.

Barillon, French ambassador, iv. 186.

Barlow, Sir William Owen, his eccen-
tricities, i. 52.

Barnard, Sir John, i. 475, 502.

Barnard's Inn, formerly Slackworth's
Inn, ii. 573 ; the hall ; regulations ;
Gordon Riots, 574.

Barnes, Thomas, editor of the Times,
i. 213 ; iii. 192.

Barnsbury Park ; Roman camp, ii. 277.

"Barnwell, George," and "Mrs. Mill-
wood," ii. 195 ; vi. 74, 2S0.

Baronets, Association of, iv. 303.

Barracks: Chelsea, v. 83 ; Knights-
bridge, V. 24 ; St. John's Wood, v.
250 ; Tower, ii. 93.

Barrow, Dr. Isaac, iv. S3.

Barrows : Blackheath, vi. 224 ; Green-
wich Park, 212.

Barry, James, R. A., iv. 461.

Barry, Lodowick, his comedy, " Ram
Alley," i. 137.

Barry, Sir Charles, R.A., iii. 46, 418,
503; IV. 177; V. 533.

Bartholomew Close, ii. 357.

Bartholomew Fair, i. 405 ; Benjonson's
play ; horse market ; booths and
stalls, ii. 345, 346, 347, 349 ; Miss
Biffin; "Lady HolL^nd's mob;"
Wombwell's menagerie, 349 ; decay
and extinction of the fair, 350 ; vi.

58- 59-

Bartholomew Lane ; Auction Mart ;
George Robins, i. 522 ; St. Bartho-
lomew's Church, 524.

Bartlett's Buildings; Society for Pro-
moting Christian Knowledge, ii.

531-
Bartolozzi, Francisco, engraver, vi. 527.
Barton Street, Westminster ; Barton

Booth, iv. 2.
Basing Lane ; Old Merchant Taylors'

Hal), i. 534, 556.
Basing Yard, Peckham ; Basing Manor,

vi. 290.
Basinghall Street, ii. 237 ; mansion of

the Basings, 23S ; Bakewell Hall ;■

St. Michael's Bassishaw Church ;

Masons' Hall ; Weavers' Hall ;

58o

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

Hall;

111.
vi.

Coopers' Hall ; Girdlers'
Bankruptcy Court, ib.

Baskelt, John, King's printer, i. i\%. -

Bateman's Buildings ; Lord Batenian,
iii. 1 86.

Bath House ; Lord Ashburton ; his
pictures, iv. 284.

Bath, Pulteney, Earl of, iv. 384.

"Bath, Queen Anne's," Endell Street,
iii. 208.

Bath, Roman, Strand Lane, iii. 77.

Bath Street, Newgate Street ; bagnio,
or Turkish bath, ii. 435.

Bathing in the Thames, iii. 296 ; in the
Serpentine, iv. 404.

Baths and Washhouses, Public,
208 ; iv. 36, 39 ; V. 228, 256
129, 412.

Baths, Floating, iii. 296.

Bathurst, Allen, Lord, iv. 188.

Battersea, vi. 469, 470 ; " Patrick's
eye," 471 ; customs of the manor ;
manor house ; Bolingbroke and
Pope; "Pope's Parlour;" York
Road ; York House ; old church,
ib. ; present church, 472 ; monu-
ments ; Christ Church, South Bat-
tersea ; St. Mark's, Battersea Rise ;
St. George's, Lower Wandsworth
Road ; Schools ; St. John's College ;
School of the National Society, ib.;
Freemasons' Girls' School, 473 ;
Battersea Rise ; " Falcon " "Tavern ;
Victoria Suspension Bridge ; Albert
Bridge ; Old Battersea Bridge, ib.;
the old ferry ; its successiv; owners,
474 ; erection of the bridge, 475 J
approaches, 476 ; improvements ;
Battersea Fields ; bad characters ;
weekly fair; its abolition ; duels, zA;
" Red House, 477 ;" crossing of the
Thames by Caesar ; Battersea Park,
ib.; Victoria Dwellings' Associa-
tion ; Southwark and Vauxhall
Waterworks, 47S ; market gardens ;
manufacture of enamelled earthen-
ware ; origin of bottled ale, 479.

Battersea Park, vi. 477.

Battersea Suspension Bridge, v. 41.

Battle, Abbots of ; residence in Ber-
inondsey, vi. 104,

Battle Bridge, ii. 276 ; great battle ;
Boadicea, 277 ; King's Cross, statue
of Geo. IV. removed ; dust heaps ;
St. Chad's Well, 278.

Battle of Turnham Green, vi. 555.

Batty, William, lessee of Astley's
Amphitheatre, vi. 406.

Batty's Hippodrome, v. 122.

Baxter, Richard, i. 100 ; ii. 428 ; iv.

23'. 538; vi. 40.
Bayham Street ; residence of Charles
Dickens ; controversy as to the
site, V. 314.
Baynard's Castle, i. 281 — 283 ; ward
of Castle Baynard, 284 ; rijjhts of
the barony ; Robert Fitz-Walter,
banner-bearer to the City of Lx)ndon ;
castle burnt ; rebuilt ; a royal resi-
dence, ib.; destroyed in the Great
Fire, 285.
Bayswater ; its etymology ; " Baynard's
Watering," v. 183 ; " Hopwood's
Nursery Ground ; " springs and con-
duits ; manor of Westboumc Green ;
streams and watercress, ib.; stone
conduit, 184 ; Conduit Passage ;
Spring Street ; water supply ; wells ;
conduit field ; trout fishing, ib. ; tea

gardens, 185 ; Lancaster Gate-;
Craven House ; Craven, Road ;
Craven Hill Gardens ; Pesthouse
fields ; Toxophilite Society ; \Vest-
boume Green, ib.; Terraces, Gar-
dens, and Squares, 186 ; street rail-
ways, 188.

Bayswater House, v. 181.

Bazalgette, Sir Joseph, v. 66, 236.

Beacon on the Tower of Lambeth
Church, vi. 447.

Beaconsfield, Earl of, i. 89 ; iii. 376,

5.^3 ; iv- 370. 446, 505. 542-
Bear and Harrow Court, iii. 22.
Bear-baiting, ii. 308; iii. 364; vi. 51,

52- 53. 54, 55-
Bear Gardens, iv. 15, 406; vi. 51 — 53.
'• Bear " Inn, London Bridge foot, vi. 12.
Bear Yard, Bermondsey, vi. 120.
Beards, restrictions on the growth of,

iii. 52.
" Beating the (parish) bounds," ii. 237 ;

iii. 201, 380.
Beattie, Dr., iv. 464.
" Beau Fielding," iii. 330.
Beaufort Buildings, iii. 100.
Beaufort, Cardinal, vi. 21, 29.
Beaufort House, Chelsea, v. 56 ; vi

526.
Beaumont and Fletcher, ii. 142, 164 ;

V- 531-

"Beaumont" Inn, Paul's Wharf, i.
285.

Beckford, William, authorof"Vathek,"
i. 408 ; iv. 340, 374, 412, 424.

Beckford, William, Lord Mayor, his
monument in Guildhall, i. 387 ;
his speech to George III., i. 407 ;
his house in Soho Square, iii. 185.

" Bedford Arms," Camden Town ; bal-
loon ascents ; music-hall, v. 310.

Bedford Chapel, Bloomsbuiy Street ;
Rev. J. C. M. Bellew, iii. 208.

" Bedford " Coffee House, Covent Gar-
den, iii. 250.

Bedford Court, Covent Garden, iii. 266.

Bedford, Earls and Dukes of ; tolls of
Covent Garden Market, iii. 239 ; iv.

537-

Bedford, Francis, Duke of; statue in
Russell Square, iv. 565.

" Bedford Head " Tavern, Maiden
Lane, iii. 119, 267.

Bedford House, Bloomsbury, iv. 483 ;
Lady Rachel Russell, 536 ; Lady
William Russell ; Earls and Dukes
of Bedford ; Lucy, Countess of Bed-
ford ; Ben Jonson, 537.

Bedford House, Strand, iii. 120.

Bedford, John, Duke of; ground-rent
of Covent Garden Theatre, iii. 229.

Bedford Lodge, Kensington, v, 133.

Bedford Place, iv. 566.

Bedford Row, iv. 551.

Bedford Square, "Judge-land," iv.
564, 566.

Bedford Street, Covent Garden ; Quin;
Thomas Sheridan, iii. 266 ; the
" Pc.icock," 267.

Bedfordhury ; Sir Francis Kynaston,
iii. 26S.

Bedlam. (.S'cc- Bethlehem Hospital.)

Bedwell, Rev. W., Rector of Totten-
ham, V. 560, 563.

Beechey, Sir William, R.A., iv. 449.

Beech Lane, Barbican ; residence of
Prince Kupert, ii. 224.

Beef and Wine Sellers' Asylum, Nun-
head, vi. 291.

"Beefeaters," Yeomen of the Guard,
iii. 368.

"Beef-steak Club," iii. 117, 118, 228,
231, 250, 27S ; iv. 141.

Beer ; origin of the terms " porter, "
"half-and-half," "three threads,"
"entire butt," iv. 485.

Beggars, iii. 45, 206, 207 ; licence to
beg, vi. 258.

"Beggar's Bush " public-house, in the
" Rookery," St. Giles's, iv. 488.

" Beggar's Opera," ii. 347 ; iii. 28 ;
iv. 125, 177, 305, 306; vi. 134,
229.

Belgrave Square ; distinguished resi-
dents, V. 9.

Belgravia, v. 2 ; the " Five Fields," 3 ;
footpads; Thomas Cubitt; drainage,
building operations ; Ebury farm ;
Miss Da vies ; hawking and coursing ;
" Monster " Tavern ; " Slender
Billy ; " Spanish monkey ; Tom
Cribb's dogs ; wealth of the Gros.
venor family, ib. ; Marquisate and
Dukedom of Westminster ; St.
George's Hospital, 4 ; Tattersall's,
5 ; St. George's Terrace, 6 ; Alex-
andra Hotel, 8 ; turnpike ; Grosvenor
Place ; Hobart Place, ib.; Arabella
Row, 9 ; Grosvenor Row ; Belgrave
Square ; Chapel Street ; Eccleston
Street, ib.; Wilton Crescent, II ;
Wilton Place ; Pantechnicon ; Hal-
kin Street; Upper and Lower Bel-
grave Streets; Eaton Square, ib.;
St. Peter's Church, 12 ; Chester
Square ; Ebury Street ; Ebury
Square, ib. ; Lowndes Square ;
Cadogan Place, 13.

"Bell and Anchor" Inn, Hammer-
smith, vi. 530.

Bell, Bishop, i. 310, 311 ; ii. 338, 482.

Bell, Dr. ; National School Society,

vi- 365. 366-
"Bell" inn, Edmonton; "John Gil-
pin;" Charles Lamb, v. 564 — 568.
Bell, Sir Charles, iii. 167 ; iv. 236, 466.
Bell Tower in the Little Sanctuary,

Westminster, iii. 488.
Bell Yard, Fleet Street, i. 75 ; iii. 22.
Bellamy, George Anne, actress, iii. 229 ;

vi. 418.
"Bellamy's," old House of Commons,

iii. 502.
" Belle Sauvage," Ludgate Hill, i. 220.
Bellew, Rev. J. C. M., iii. 208.
Bellingham, John ; Spencer Perceval

assassinated by, iii. 530; iv. 551.
Bellman's Verses ; Isaac Ragg, bell-
man, ii. 541, 542.
Bells, Church ; Great Bell of St. Paul's,

i. 256 ; right of ringing bells, vi, 325 ;

"Big Ben," iii. 519; bells of St.

Clement Danes' Church, Strand,

iii. 12 ; of I'ulham Church, vi. 507;

of Kensington Church, v. 129.
BclCs Wiekly Atesscn^er, i. 64.
Belsize Lane ; Belsize House, v. 490,

491.
Belsize, Manor of; Belsize Avenue, v.

494; Belsize House ; Lord Wotlon,

495 ; amusements, 496, 497 ; music ;

running ; gaming ; Spencer Perceval;

Dclarue murdered by I locker, ib.
Belsize Square, v. 498.
Belvedere Road, Lambeth, vi. 388,

409.
"Belvedere" Tavern, Pentonville, ii.

279.

GENERAL INDEX.

581

Behoni, ii. 293; iii. 49; iv. 459i 53'>

534-

Benbow, Admiral, vi, 138, 154, 156.

Bennet's Hill, i. 303.

Bensley's printing-office, i. 1 14.

Bentham, Jeremy, iv. 22, 42.

Bentinck Street, Marylebone, iv. 442.

Bentinck Street, Soho, iv. 238.

Bentley and Son ; Bentleys Miscellany,
iv. 315.

Bentley, Thomas ; partner of Josiah
Wedgwood, vi. 550.

Bergami, iv. 460.

Berkeley, Hon. Grantley, iv. 251.

Berkeley House, Piccadilly, iv. 275.

Berkeley Square, iv. 327 ; Lord Berke-
ley ; statue of George HI. ; plane-
trees ; the old link-extinguishers ;
Lansdowne House; Lord Bute, ib.;
Junius ; distinguished residents,
328, 330, 331, 332 ; footpads, 333.

Berkeley Street, Clerkenwell ; Sir Mau-
rice Berkeley ; Lord Berkeley, ii.

335-

Berkeley Street, iv. 292.

Berkeley's Inn, Thames Street, i. 302.

Berkshire House, iv. 177.

Bermondsey, vi. 100 ; its etymology,
loi ; tanners j rope-makers ; market
gardens ; Tooley Street ; parish of
St. Olave ; the Church ; King Olaf,
ib., fire in 1843, 102 ; Abbot's Inn,
103 ; Abbots of Battle ; the Maze ;
Maze Pond ; mansion of the Priors
of Lewes; crypt, ib.; St. Olave's
Grammar School ; Saxon Mint ;
fires ; 104, 105 ; St. Olave's Church,
&c., 105 ; Mill Lane, 106 ; Borough
Compter ; Carter Lane ; Anabaptist
Chapel; "the Three Tailors of
Tooley Street ;" Snow's Fields, 108 ;
the Abbey, 117 — 119; descent of
the manor ; Neckinger Road, 119 ;
Long Walk ; Grange Walk ; Ber-
mondsey Square; Bear Yard, 120;
St Mary Magdalen Church, 121 ;
Russell Street ; St. Olave's Union,
124 ; Grange Road ; Willow Walk,
125; tanneries; Bricklayers' Arms
Station ; Fort Road ; market gar-
dens ; the Neckinger Mills, 126;
straw paper ; leather ; chalybeate
spring; " Watemian's Arms" tea
garden ; Bermondsey .Spa ; music ;
paintings by Thomas Keyse, 128;
picture model, "Siege of Gibraltar,"
129 ; Spa Road ; Baths and Wash-
houses ; Parker's Row ; Christ
Church ; Roman Catholic Church
and Convent ; Sisters of Mercy,
ib.; Catholic Schools, 130 ; Jamaica
Road; "Jamaica" Inn; Pepys ;
Jamaica Level ; Bermondsey Wall ;
Cherry Garden Stairs ; " Lion and
Castle " Inn ; the Cherry Garden ;
St. James's Church ; Spa Road
Railway Station, ib.; Drummond
Road ; Peek, Frean, and Co. 's
biscuit factory ; Blue Anchor Road ;
Galley Wall, 131 ; Half-penny
Hatch, 133.

Bermondsey Market ; leather factors,
" Skin Depository," vi. 123 ; skin-
salesmen ; fellmongers ; wool-sta-
plers, 124.

Bermondsey Square, vi. 120.

"Bermudas, The," iii. 158.

Bernal, Ralph, M.P., iv. 451 ; v. II.

Bemers Street, iv. 464 ; Opie and Mrs.

Opie ; Fuseli ; Theodore Hook's
practical hoax ; societies and charit-
able institutions, ib.

Bemers Women's Club, iv. 465.

Berry, Lady, her monument at Stepney
Church ; story of "The Fish and
the Ring," ii. 140.

Berry, The Misses, iv. 351.

Berwick Street, iv. 238.

Best, Captain ; duel with Lord Camel-
ford, v. 176.

Bethell, Slingsby, sheriff of London,
fined for assault, vi. 113.

Bethlehem Hospital, ii. 161, 200 ; first
established in Bishopsgate, vi. 351 ;
Priory of the Star of Bethlehem ;
hospital for lunatics; "Tom o'
Bedlams," ib. ; the hospital in Moor-
fields, 352 ; removal to St. George's
Fields; the present building, ib.;
statues by Cibber of the "Brainless
Brothers," 353 ; the patients, 354;
ball-room, 355 ; billiard-roum,
chapel, infirmary, 356 ; baths ;
treatment of the insane, 357 ;
criminal lunatics ; convalescent
hospital at Witley, 358 ; statistics ;
romantic anecdote, 359 ; regula-
tions, 360.

Bethnal Green, ii. 146 ; ballad of "The
Blind Beggar of I3ethnal Green ;"
Museum ; Sir Richard Wallace's
collection, 147 ; Nichols Street ;
Half Nichols Street ; tramps ; dog
and bird fanciers ; French hospital,
148.

Betterton, Thomas, tragedian, i. 197 ;
iii. 27, 46, 219, 220; iv. 17.

Betting. {See Gambling.)

Betty, William Henry, " the Young
Roscius, " iii. 231 ; v. 309.

Beulah Spa, Norwood, vi. 294 ; the
spring ; entertainments, 315.

Bevis Marks, ii. 165.

Bible Society, vi. 315.

Bibles, misprints in, i. 230 ; in the
British Museum, iv. 513; printed by
Thomas Guy, vi. 93.

Bibliomania, iv. 188.

Bickerstaff, Isaac, iii. 21, 57.

Biffin, Miss, ii. 350.

Billingsgate, ii. 42 ; legend of Belin, 43 ;
fish-fags ; market tricks ; Dutch
auctions ; Mayhew's account of the
market, ib. ; dock, 44, 45 ; tolls;
prices of fish ; market ; Acts of
Parliament, ib. ; Billingsgate lan-
guage, 45 ; "bummarees ;" coster-
mongers ; sprat-selling, ib. ; old
water-gate, 46 ; Dutch eel-boats ;
angling ; fishermen, 47 ; old cus-
tom, 48.

BilHngton, Mrs., iii. 221 ; vi. 539.

Billiter Street and Billiter Square, ii.
176.

Birch, Dr. Thomas, ii. 176, 334.

Birch, Samuel, Lord Mayor ; his shop
in Comhill, i. 412; ii. 172.

Birchin Lane ; Drapers ; " Tom's "
Coffee House, ii. 173.

Birdcage Walk, iv. 47, 49.

Bird-fanciers, ii. 148, 152.

Birkbeck, Dr., ii. 533, 534; v. 221.

Birkbeck Literary and Scientific Institu-
tion, ii. S36.

Bishop, Mr. Geo. ; his Observatory,
Regent's Park, v. 267.

Bishop, Sir Henry R., v. 323.

Bishop and Williams executed, ii. 455.

Bishop of London's Park, Hornsey, v.
429.

Bishop of London's Prison, West-
minster, iii. 489.

Bishops, alleged consecration of in
Cheapside, i. 339.

Bishops, The Seven ; their trial, iii.

551-

Bishopsgate, ii. 1 52; Bishop Erken-
wald ; merchants of the Hanse ;
the Gate; the "White Hart;" Sir
Paul Pindar's house, ib.; " Sir Paul
Pindar's Head ; " .St. Helen's priory,
church, and crypt, 153 ; monu-
ments, 154; Crosby Hall, 155, 157.

Bishops' "inns," or houses, in the
Strand, iii. no.

Bishop's Place, Stoke Newington, v.

532-

Bishops' Walk, Lambeth, vi. 429, 436.

Bisset, animal trainer, iv. 220.

" Black and White House," Hackney,
V. 519.

"Black Bull" Tavern, Gray's Inn
Lane, iv. 551.

" Black Coat School," Westminster,
iv. 40.

" Black Dog " as a sign ; " Black Dog "
Tavern, Highgate, v. 393.

" Black Doll," marine store dealer's
sign, vi. 163.

Blackfriars, i. 200 ; Mountfiquet Castle ;
Dominican convent ; parliaments ;
Playhouse Yard ; the Blackfriars
Theatre ; Burbage and Shakespeare,
ib. ; Puritan feather-sellers : Ben
Jonson's house ; fatal fall of chapel,
201 ; Queen Elizabeth, 204 ; old
and new bridges, 205 ; Bridge
Street; Printing House Square, 209 ;
Apothecaries' Hall, 215; King's
and Queen's printers, 218 ; Ireland
Yard, house bought by Shakespeare ;
St. Andrew's Hill, 219.

Blackfriars Bridge, i. 205 ; Robert
Mylne, his rivalry with Gwynn, ib. ;
laying the first stone, 206 ; first
named " Pitt Bridge," 207 ; repairs,
decay, new bridge, temporary
bridge ; Joseph Cubitt, 20S ; old
ferry, vi. 383.

Blackfriars Road, vi. 368 ; Surrey
Theatre ; residences of actors, 371 ;
Temperance Hall, 373 ; Working
Men's College ; South London
Tramway Company's offices ; Mis-
sion College, ib.; Nelson Square,
374; the "Dog's Head in the
Pot ; " Surrey Chapel and parson.ige
house; Rowland Hill, 374, 380;
Christ Church ; Paris Garden, 380 ;
almshouses, Church Street, 381 ;
Sir .'\shton Lever, 382 ; Leverian
Museum ; Surrey Institution ; Ro-
tunda ; Globe Theatre ; political
and seditious meetings ; waxwork
and wild beast shows ; concert-
room ; auction-room ; .•\lbion Mills,
ib.; old Swan Theatre, 383.

Blackheath, vi. 224 ; etymology ; tu-
muli ; cavern ; encampment of the
Danes, ib. ; Wat Tyler's rebellion,
225 ; Jack Straw ; Emperor of
Constantinople ; royal receptions;
Jack Cade ; Falconbridge ; Lord
Audley's rebellion, /(^. ; the Smiths'
Forge, 226 ; Whitefield's Mount ;
artillery butts; Cardinal Cam-
peggio ; Bonevet, High Admiral

S82

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

of France ; Henry VIII. and
Anne of Cleves, ib. ; Restoration
of Charles II. ; Blackheath Fair ;
monstrosities, 227 ; All Saints'
Church; Tranquil Vale; "Green
Man" Inn; "Chocolate House,"
22S ; manors of East and West
Coombe, 229 ; Woodlands ; J. J.
Angerstein, 230 ; Queen Caroline ;
St. John's Church ; Mrs. Clarke ;
Maze Hill; "Vanbrugh Castle;"
"Mince-pie House," ib. ; Black-
heath Park, 236.

Blacking manufacturers, iv. 549.

" Black Lion " Tavern, i. 195.

" Black Mary's Hole," Bagnigge Wells,
ii. 297, 417 ; iv. 550.

Blackmore, Sir Richard, i. 342 ; ii.
434 ; V. 126, 460.

" Black Parliament " at Blackfriars, i.
200.

" Black Post " Tavern, iv. 309.

"Black Raven" sponging - house,
Covent Garden, iii. 259.

Blacksmiths' Hall, ii. 36.

Blackstone, Sir William, i. 166 ; iii. 26.

"Black Swan," Bishopsgate, ii. 159.

Blackwell, Dr. Alexander, v. 83.

Blackwell, Sir Ralph, founder of Black-
well Hall, i. 533.

Blake, William, artist, iv. 469 ; v. 449,

459-
Blake's Poem on the Charity Children

at St. Paul's, i. 262.
Blake's Charity, Highgate, v. 424.
Blanch Appleton Manor (now Blind

Chapel Court), ii. 179.
Blandford Square, v. 259.
" Blanket Fair ; " Frost on the Thames,

1683, iii. 314.
Bleak Hall, Tottenham, v. 553.
Bleeding Heart Yard, described by

Dickens, ii. 544.
Blenheim Street, iv. 464.
Blenkiron, William ; his racing stud at

Eltham, vi. 242.
Blessington, Countess of, iv. 352 ; vi.

119, 120.
"Blind Beggar of Bethnal Green," ii.

147.
Blind Chapel Court ; manor of Blanch

Ap])leton, ii 179.
"Blind Man's Friend" Society, iv. 31,

549-
Blind, Royal Normal College and

Academy of Music for the. Upper

Norwood, vi. 316.
Blind, School for the Indigent, St.

George's Fields, vi. 350, 364 ; blind

choir and organist, 365.
Blind, School for the, St. John's Wood,

V. 250.
Bliss, Dr., Astronomer Royal, vi. 215,

244.
Blitheman, organist of the Queen's

Chapel, his epitaph, ii. 20.
Blood, Colonel, ii. 81 ; iv. 38, 166, 543;

V. 190.
Bloomfidd, Robert ; the " Farmer's

Boy," ii. 244.
Bloomsbury, iv. 4S0 ; the village of

" Lomesbury," 481 ; royal mews;

-Southampton, or Bedford House;

Montagu House; Capper's farm;

eccentric old maids, ib,
Bloomsbury Market, iv. 543.
Bloomsbury I'lace, iv. 544.
Bloomsbury Square, iv. 537 ; Earl of

Southampton ; Bedford House ;

Earls and Dukes of Bedford ; Lord
William Russell ; Lady William
Russell ; Lady Rachel Russell, ib. ;
fortifications ; Dr. Radcliffe ; other
residents, 538 ; Gordon riots, 539 ;
Lord Mansfield ; his house sacked,
541 ; Pharmaceutical Society, 542 ;
Royal Literary Fund ; duels ; statue
of Fox, 543.

Bloomsbury Street ; French Protestant
Church ; Baptist Chapel ; Bedford
Chapel, iii. 208 ; iv. 48S.

Blount, Martha, iv. 442.

Blowbladder Street, ii. 219.

Blucher, Marshal, iv. 95.

Blue Anchor Road, Bermondsey, vi.

13'-
Blue Coat School. [Sei Christ's Hos-
pital.)
"Blue Flower Pot," Holbom Row;

a chirurgeon's sign, iv. 545.
" Blue Posts" Tavern, iv. 309, 479.
" Blueskin " (Blake) and Jonathan

Wild, ii. 473.
"Blue Stocking Club," iv. 334, 416,

418.
Boadicea ; London burnt by, i. 20 ;

battle with Suetonius Paulinus at

Battle Bridge, ii. 277.
" Boar and Castle," Oxford Street, iv.

471.
Board of Green Cloth, iv. 70.
Board of Trade, iii. 377, 3S8.
Board of Works, iv. 79.
Board Schools, vi. 570.
Boarding Schools for Young Ladies,

Hackney, v. 518.
" Boar's Head," Eastcheap, i. 561 ; old

signs ; Shakesperian dinners ; Pitt ;

Falstaff; James Austin's gigantic

puddings ; epitaph on a waiter ;

Goldsmith, ib. ; Washington Irving,

562 ; Shakespeare, 563.
"Boar's Head" Inn, Southwark, vi.

87, 88.
"Boatman's Chapel," Paddington, v.

228.
Boat races ; Doggett's coat and badge,

iii. 308 ; Oxford and Cambridge, vi.

SCO.
Boat-racing, vi. 467, 477.
" Bogus'' swindle, i. 213.
Bohemia, Queen of, iii. 164.
"Bohemians, The" (Club), iv. 300.
Bohun's almshouses, Lee, vi. 244.
Boleyn, Anne, Queen of Henry VIII.,

i. 316; iii. 309, 340, 404, 545;

y- 57, 520, 532; vi. 167.
Bolingbroke, Viscount, iv. 237 ; vi,

469.
Bolt Court, Dr. Johnson's residence

and death in, i. 112, 113 ; " Doctor

Johnson" Tavern; Lumber Troop,

114 ; Cobbett, 1 1 7.
"Bolt-in-Tun" Inn, i. 53.
Bolton, Duchess of, vi. 192, 229.
Bolton House, Hampstead, v. 465.
Bolton House, Russell Square, iv. 564,

566.
Bolton, Miss (Lady Thurlow), iii. 232.
Bolton Row, iv. 334.
Bolton Street, iv. 292.
Bolton, William, Prior of St. Bartho-
lomew's, ii. 270, 344, 353.
Boltons, The, Bromjiton, v. loi.
Bond, Sir Thomas, iv. 293 ; Bond's

G.ardens, Camberwcll, vi. 272, 286.
Bond Street, Old and New, iv. 249 ;

"Conduit Mead;" fashionable 1

loungers, 299 ; residents ; societies,
300 ; librarians ; Hancock ; Hunt
and Roskell ; Copeland and Co.,
301 ; Dore's pictures ; Long's Hotel,
302 ; Clarendon Hotel ; Stevens's
Hotel ; Western Exchange, 303.

Bonfires, City, i. 332.

Bonner, Bishop, i. 243; vi. 73, 512,
514.

Bonner s House, Putney, vi. 493.

Bonner's Road, v. 508 ; Orphan
Asylum; Hospital for Diseases of
the Chest ; Bishop Bonner's Fields,
Hall, and Hall Farm, ib.

Bonnycastle, anecdotes of, i. 267, 268.

Bonomi, architect, R.A. ; Spanish
Place Chapel, iv. 425, 461.

Boodle's Club, iv. 164.

Book auctions, iv. 201.

Booksellers in Paternoster Row, i. 274.

Booksellers' stalls in Moorfields, ii. 197;
in Westminster Hall, iii. 542.

" Boot," Burning of the, i. 40S.

" Boot " Tavern, Cromer Street ; head-
quarters of the Gordon rioters, v.

365-

Booth, Barton, iii. 220 ; iv. 2.

Bordeaux wines, importation of, ii. 21.

Bordello, or " stews," Bankside, vi. 32.

Borough Compter, vi. 106.

Borough Market, vi. 17.

Borough Road College, vi. 368.

Borough, The. (.SVc Southwark.)

Boruwlaski, Count, iv. 279.

Boss Alley, ii. 36.

Boswell Court (Old and New) ; distin-
guished residents, iii. 22.

Boswell, James, i. 51, 54, 167, 418;
iii- 75. 275 ; iv. 141, 183, 291 ; v.
194 ; VI. 346, 575, 576.

Botanic Garden, Chelsea, v. 68.

Botanic Society. {Sit Royal Botanic
Society.)

" Botany Bay ;" Victoria Park, v. 508.

Botany, British Museum, iv. 525.

" Bottled ale," Origin of, vi. 479.

Boucher, Joan, the Maid of Kent, ii.

339-
Bouffleurs, Madame de, i. 167.
Boulevards, proposed by Loudon, v.

257 ; vi. 467.
Bourgeois, Sir Francis, vi. 302.
Bourne, Dr., preaching at Paul's Cross,

i- 243-
Bouverie Street ; the Daily News, i.

137—140.
Bow and Bromley Institute, v. 572.
Bow Bridge and Church, v. 570, 571.
Bow Church, Chea])side, i. 335 ; the

bells ; the steeple ; e.irly histoiy ;

violation of sanctuary, ib.; Great

Fi''<-'> 337 ; Sir C. Wren ; Norman

crypt ; .seal of the parish, 33S.
Bow Lane, i. 352.

"Bower Banks," Tottenham, v. 552.
Bowes, Sir Martin, Lord Mayor, i. 400 ;

ii. 366.
"Bowl, The," St. Giles's, iii. 200.
Bowling alleys, ii. 32S ; vi. 54.
Bowling-Grecn House, Putney, vi. 495.
Bowling-Grccn Lane, Clcrkenwell, ii.
Bowling Greens, iv. 77, 236 ; vi. 495.

328; "r.all Mall;" "Cherry Tree

])ul)lic-house ;" whipping post, ib.
Bowling-pin Alley, i. bo.
Bowman, first cofifec-house opened by,

ii. 172.
Bow Street, iii. 272 ; Police Office ; Sir

John Fielding; "Robin Redbreasts,"

GENERAL INDEX.

583

ib. ; Waller, 273 ; Moliun, come-
dian ; Harley, Karl of Oxford ;
Grinling Gibbons ; Kneller ; Dr.
Radcliffe; Wycherley ; the "Cock
Tavern;" "Garrick's Head Tavern ;"
"Society of Sign-painters," ib.

Bowyer family, Peckham, vi. 290.

Bowyer House, Camberwell, vi. 272.

Bowyers. {See .Archery.)

Boydell, Lord Mayor, i. 343, 344, 345,

346. 390. 4" ; iv- 135-

Boyer, Jeremy, master of Christ's Hos-
pital, ii. 373.

Boyle, Richard, Earl of Burlington.
(See Burlington.)

Boyle, Robert, v. 89.

Boyle Street, iv. 305.

Boys' Home, Chalk Farm, v. 296.

Boys, Thomas, publisher, iv. 470.

Boyse, his poems, i. 424.

Boyton, Captain Paul, iii. 321.

Bozier's Court, iv. 479.

Bracegirdle, Mrs., iii. 41, 81, 220; iv
171.

Bradley, Dean, iii. 400, 461.

Bradley, Dr., Astronomer Royal, vi.

Bradshaw, regicide, iii. 539-

Braham, John, vocalist, ii. 146, 294 ;
iv. 191 — 196, 458.

Braidwood, James, v. 543 ; vi. io5.

Braithwaite ; first steam fire-engine, iv.
244.

Bramah, John Joseph, engineer, v. 44.

Branch, Helen, her bequests, i. 530.

Brandenburgh House, Hammersmith,
^''' 539> 54° ! gardens ; masque-
rades, 542 ; Queen Caroline ; her
death and funeral, 543-

Brandon, Gregory and Richard, execu-
tioners, ii. 143; iii. 350; V. 197.

Brassey, Thomas, M.P., v. 13.

Bread Street, Cheapside, i. 349, 350 ;
birth and baptism of Milton; the
prison; "Mermaid" Tavern, ib. ;
old Salters' Hall, 548.

Breakfasting House, near Sadler's
Wells, ii. 296.

Breakneck Steps, Old Bailey, ii. 476.

Bream's Buildings, ii. 536.

" Brecknock Arms " Tavern, v.
376.

Brecknock Road, v. 373.

Breeches-maker's shop bill, vi. 13.

Breslau, conjuror, iv. 84, 232.

Breweries, or "here houses," temp.
Henry VH., ii. 123.

Brewers' Hall, ii. 8.

Bricklayers' Arms Railway Station, vi.
125.

Bridewell, i. 190 ; the old palace, 191 ;
trial of Queen Katharine ; converted
into a prison ; Great Fire ; flogging
of prisoners, ib.; Hogarth's "Har-
lot's Progress," 192 ; John Howard,
Pennant, 193 ; contumacious appren-
tices : Court-room, 194 ; women
whipped, 306.

Bridewell Bridge, ii. 419.

Bridewell Dock, i. 195.

Bridewell, Westminster. (See Tothill
Fields' Prison.)

Bridge Foot, London Bridge. (See
Southwark.)

Bridge House, pubHc granary, ii. I So.

Bridge House, Tooley Street, vi. 13, 14.

Bridge Street, Blackfriars ; Sir Richard
Phillips, i. 20S.

Bridge Street, Southwark, vi. 13.

Bridgeman, gardener to Caroline, Queen

of George H., v. 154.
Bridgewater House, iv. 177.
Bridgewater Square, Barbican ; mansion

of the Earls of Bridgewater, ii. 224.
Bridport, Admiral Lord, v. 119.
"Brill" Tavern, Somers Town; Brill

Row, V. 342.
Briot, Nicholas, coins executed by, ii.

104.
Bristol House, Putney Heath, vi. 496.
tiristol House, St. James's Square, iv.

184.
Bristol Hotel, iv. 308.
"Britain's Burse," iit. 104.
British Almanack & Companion, i. 230.
British and Foreign School Society, vi.

365-

British Artists, Gallery of, iv. 230.

British Association for the Advance-
ment of .Science, iv. 296.

"British Coffee House," Cockspur
Street, iv. 84.

British College of Health ; James Mori-
son ; " Morison's Pills," v. 366.

British Home for Incurables, vi. 327.

British Institution, Pall Mall, iv. 136.

British Lying-in Hospital, iii. 208.

British Museum, iv. 490 ; Sir Hans
Sloane's collections ; the Harleian
MSS. ; Sir John Cotton's library;
George III.'s library; Montagu
House, ib.; Ralph, Duke of Mon-
tagu, 491 ; gardens ; the Gordon
riots ; encampment, 493, 494 ; Go-
vernors and Trustees, 495 ; public
opening ; admission tickets, 496 ;
statistics of admissions ; Egyptian
antiquities; Elgin marbles; royal
library, 497 ; Towneley marbles,
500 ; Payne Knight's collection ;
library and old reading-rooms ;
old and recent regulations, ib.; new
buildings ; Sir Robert Smirke ;
.Sydney Smiike, 502 ; Grenville
library ; new reading-room, 503,
509 ; catalogue, 504, 505, 506 ;
present regulations, 505, 509 ;
book-cases ; press-marks, 506 ;
books of reference, 508 ; Printed
Book Department, 509; "King's
pamphlets ; " " King's library, "512;
Bibles ; Grenville library ; rare
books; autographs, 513; Magna
Charta ; Manuscript Department ;
" Codex Alexandrinus, " 514 ; early
newspapers, 515; copyright, 517;
prints and drawings ; past and pre-
sent officers, 518 ; Macaulay, 519;
recent alterations, 520 ; Roman gal-
lery, Greek sculpture, and Ephesus
rooms, 521 ; Egyptian galleries
and Assyrian transept, 522 ; Phoe-
nician room and the "White"
wing, 524 ; Department of Anti-
quities, and British and Mediaeval
room, 525 ; medal room, 526 ;
bronze and vase rooms, 527 ;
Egyptian relics and Assyrian re-
mains, 529-532 ; Lycian gallery, 532;
comparison with other museums,

533. 534-
British Orphan Asylum, vi. 327.
Britton, John, F. S.A., ii. 568, 323 ; iv.

575-
Britton, Thomas, the small-coal man,

ii. 334 ; V. 524.
Brixton, vi. 319 ; Royal Asylum of St.

Ann's Charity ; Female Convict

Prison ; treadmill ; Clapham Park ;

the Cedars, 320.
Broad Court; "Wrekin" Tavern, iii.

274.
Broadsides printed by Catnatch, iii.

203.
Broad Street, Bloomsbury, iv. 484.
Broad Street, Golden Square, iv. 239.
Broadway, Westminster, iv. 20.
Bromley, v. 573-576 ; Convent of St.

Leonard's ; its history ; old church

and monuments ; present church,

574-

Brompton, v. 26, 100 ; Oratory of St.
Philip Neri, 26; West, Old and New,
loi ; Cromwell, or Hale House ;
Cromwell Road ; Thistle Grove ;
'■The Boltons;" St. Mary's Church;
cemetery, ib.; Brompton Hall, 102 ;
Lord Burleigh ; St. Michael's
Grove ; Jerrold and Dickens ;
Brompton Grove ; Lower Grove ;
Gloucester Lodge, ib. ; Hosj^ital
for Consumption, 104 ; Cancer Hos-
pital; Onslow Square; Pelham Cres-
cent ; Keeley ; Eagle Lodge ; Thur-
loe Place and Square ; International
Exhibition, 1862, ib. ; annual exhi-
bitions, 106 ; School of Cookery ;
National Portrait Gallery, 107 ;
Meyrick collection of arms and
armour ; Indian Museum, 108 ;
.South Kensington Museum, 109 ;
Museum of Patents ; Science and
Art Department ; Royal Albert
Hall, 112 ; concerts; National
Training School for Music, 115;
gardens of the Royal Horticultural
Society ; statue of the Prince Con-
sort, 116.

Brompton Park Nursery, v. 122.

Brompton Road, v. 26.

Brompton Square, v. 26.

Brondesbury. (See Kilburn. )

Brook Green, Hammersmith, vi. 533 ;
fair ; Roman Catholic Church and
Almshouses ; St. Mary's College ;
Reformatory, ib.

Brook Street, Grosvenor Square, iv.
342 ; Claridge's (Mivart's) Hotel,

343-
"Brooke House," Hackney; Fulke

Greville, Lord Brooke, v. 520.
Brooke Street, Holborn ; suicide of

Chatterton, ii. 545.
Brookes, Joshua, F.R.S., anatomist,

iv. 256, 464.
" Brookes's " Club, iv. 152, 158.
Brooks, Shiriey, i. 57, 58 ; v. 267.
Broom House, Fulham, vi. 524.
Broome, gardener of the Inner Temple,

i. 181.
Brothers, Richard, the " prophet," ii.

333 ; v. 212, 262.
"Brothers' Steps," or "Field of the

Forty Footsteps," iv, 482.
Brougham, Lord, iii. 179, 532; iv.

298, 327.
Browning, Thomas, the prisoner of Lud

Gate ; " Prison Thoughts," i. 225.
Brownlow Street, Holborn, iv. 552.
Brownlow Street, St. Giles's ; Sir John

Brownlow, iii. 207.
Brownrigg, Elizabeth, murderess, i.

99 ; ii- 458-
Bruce, David, King of Scotland, ii

64 ; V. 549.
Bruce Castle School, ToUenham ; the

old Castle, residence of the father

584

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

of King David Bnice ; history of
the place, v. 554—557.
Bruce, the African traveller, iv. 260.
Brummell, George, "Beau Brummell,"
i. 412; iv. 95, 165, 284, 317, 332,
353. 399, 418 ; V. 248.
Brunei, Isambard K., iii. 132; v. 223.
Brunei, Sir II. I. ; the Thames Tunnel,

ii. 129; iv. 33; V. 86; vi. 139.
Brunswick Square, iv. 563.
Brunton, Miss (Countess of Craven),

iii. 232.
Bruton Street, iv. 326, 327.
Bryanston Square, iv. 412.
Bryanston Street, iv. 408.
Brydges Street, Covent Garden, iii. 282.
Buchan, Dr., anecdotes, i. 278.
Buckhurst, Lord, v. 143.
Buckingham, Catherine, Duchess of,

iv. 63.
Buckingham, Duke of, Dryden's

" Zimri," ii. 25, 26.
Buckingham, Duke of (temp. Richard

III.), at Guildhall, i. 394.
Buckingham, Edward Stafford, Duke

of, iii. 545.
Buckingham, George Villiers, Duke of,

'''• 436, 437. 446 ; iv. 62, 432.
Buckingham House, Pall Mall, iv. 128.
Buckingham, James Silk, M.P., v. 268.
Buckingham, John Sheffield, Duke of,

iii. 346, 383, 436 ; vi. 498.
Buckingham Palace, iv. 61 ; James I.,
62 ; the Mulberry Garden ; Arling-
ton House ; John Sheffield, Duke of
Buckingham ; Buckingham House,
ib.; "Princess" Buckingham; the
house bought by George III., and
settled on Queen Charlotte, 63 ;
Dr. Johnson, 64; Gordon riots, 65;
Nash's new palace ; altered by
Blore, 66 ; Marble Arch ; State
apartments; ball-room, throne-room,
picture-gallery, 68 ; yellow drawing-
room ; pleasure-grounds, pavilion,
frescoes ; royal mews ; state-coach ;
"the boy Jones," 69 ; the King of
Hanover ; departure of the Guards
for the Crimea ; interview of Charles
Dickens with Queen Victoria ;
Board of Green Cloth, 70 ; royal
household ; courts, drawing-rooms,
and levees, 71.
Buckingham Street ; Buckingham
House ; George Villiers, iii. 107 ;
house of Pepys ; Peter the Great,
108, 109.
Buckland, Rev. William, Dean of

Westminster, iii. 461.
Bucklersbury, i. 435.
Buck&tone, J. B., comedian, iv. 226.
Budge Kow, Cannon Street, i. 550.
Budgell, Eu.stace, ii. 300.
Bugsby's Hole ; pirates hung in chains,

ii. 135.
Building regulation?, iii. 41.
"Bulk-shops," Butchers' Row, iii. n.
"Bull and Mouth," Aldersgate Street,
Bull-baiting, ii. 308; iii. 364; vi. 51,

52. 54. 55. '72-
Bull, Dr. John, organist, i. 532 ; ii. 20.

ii. 219.
Bull, executioner, v. 196.
Hull Feathers' Hall, Society of, ii. 279.
" Hull " Inn, Bisliopsgate, ii. 161 ;
liurb.ige's Theatre ; Hobson, the
Cambridge carrier, ib.
Bull's Head Court, bas-relief of Charles
J.'s giant nnd dwarf, ii. 430.

Bullock's American Museum, iv. 257.
Bunhill Fields and Burial-ground, ii.

202, 204, 206 ; vi. 108.
" Bun House, Old," Chelsea, v. 69.
Bunn, Alfred, iii. 221, 226, 234; iv.

194 ; v. 104.
Bunning, J. B., architect, ii. 50 ; v.

374. 376.
Bunyan, John, ii. 440 ; vi. 13, 40.
Burbage, James, i. 200, 201 ; vi. 47-49.
Burbage, Richard, ii. 195.
Burdett-Coutls, Baroness, iii. 105 ; iv. 10,
171,281,400; v. 406, 411, 506, 509.
Burdett, Sir Francis, iii. 75, 476 ; iv.

171, 281 ; V. 20.
Burford's Panorama, iii. 170.
Burgess, Bishop of Salisbury ; Royal

Society of Literature, iii. 154.
Burghley, Lord, v. 178.
Burke, Edmund, i. 166, 388; iv. 134,

154, 201, 208, 461 ; vi. 576.
Burleigh House, Strand, iii. 113.
Burleigh, Lord, ii. 561 ; v. 102 ; iii. 434.
Burlington Arcade, iv. 272.
Burlington, Earl of, iii. 469; iv. 263.
Burlington Gardens ; Atkinson, per-
fumer ; Truefitt, hairdresser ; Lon-
don University, iv. 304.
Burlington House, Piccadilly, iv. 256,
262 ; Richard Boyle, Earl of Bur-
lington, 263 ; political plans, 265 ;
fetes to Allied Sovereigns ; Elgin
marbles ; the house bought by
Government, ib. ; plans for the re-
moval of the Royal Academy,
National Gallery, Royal and other
Societies ; commencement of new
buildings ; Banks and Barry, archi-
tects, 266 ; present Royal Academy;
Geological Society, Royal Society,
Linman Society, Society of An-
tiquaries, Astronomical Society,
Chemical Society, 267-272.
Burnet, Bishop, i. 77 ; ii. 325, 326 ;

iii. 45, 80, 574; iv. 125.
Burney, Dr. Charles, iii. 172 ; iv. 34,

232, 464, 515; vi. 161.
Burton Crescent, iv. 575.
Burton, Decimus, architect, v. 269.
Burton, James, iv. 576.
Burton Street ; Mrs. Davidson ; " New

Jerusalem Church," iv. 574.
Bury Street, St. James's, iv. 202.
Busby, Dr., iii. 422, 476 ; vi. 549,

557.
Busby ; wig so called, iv. 459.
" Busby's Folly," ii. 279.
Bush Hill Park, Southgate ; grounds

laid out by Le Notre ; carving by

Grinling Gibbons, v. 569.
Bushnell, George ; Trojan horse, v.

209.
Bushnell, John ; statues by him, i. 2 •,

3°-
Butcher Hall Lane; "Three Jolly

Pigeons ; " Caulitlower Club, ii.

434-

Butchers' Almshouses, Walham Green,
vi. 525.

Butchers in London ; statistics, vi. 570.

Hutchersof Clare Market; their patron-
age of the drama, iii. 42.

Butchers' Row, iii. 10.

Bute, Earl of, i. 35, 408 ; iv. 88, 328,

345-
Butler, Bishop, i. 73, 77 ; v. 480.
Butler, Samuel, author of " lludibras,"

i. 105, 155, 407 ; ii. 221 ; iii. 255,

264 ; iv. 290, 329.

Butterflies; "The Camberwell Beauty, "
vi. 279.

Butterwick Manor House, Hammer-
smith ; Earl of Mulgrave, vi. 539.

" Button's Coffee House ; " Daniel
Button; the "Lion's Head," iii.
277, 280 ; death of Button, 281.

Butts, Dr., i. 183 ; li. 233.

Bu.\ton, Jedediah, ii. 321.

Buxton Memorial Drinking Fountain,
iv- 33-

Buxton, Sir T. Fowell, v. 449.

Byron, Lord, i. 46, 261, 429; iii. 113,
226, 234, 240, 310; iv. 30, 167, 176,
293, 296, 302, 311, 397,405,430,
458, 470 ; V. 291, 418, 457 ; vi.

253. 293-
Byron, William, fifth Lord ; his duel
with Mr. Chaworth, iv. 137.

C.

Cabot, Sebastian, ships provided for
him by the Drapers' Company, i.
518.

Cabs ; introduction of; licences ; office
in Scotland Yard, iii. 333.

Cade, Jack, i. 545 ; ii. 8, 14 ; vi. 9,
13, 86, 112, 145, 225.

Cadell, Thomas, publisher, iii. 80, 123;
iv. 544.

Cadgers' Hall and Cadgers, i. 74 ; iv.
48S.

Cadogan Place, v. 13.

Cadogan Street and Terrace ; Earl
Cadogan, v. 98, 99.

Caen (or Ken) 'iVood, Hampstead ;
etymology ; seat of the Earl of
Mansfield, v. 441 ; the house and
grounds, 442.

Caesar, Sir Julius, Master of the Rolls,
i. 77 ; ii. 154 ; v. 404, 563.

Cage, St. Giles's, iii. 200.

Cagliostro, Count, iii. 557 ; v. 97.

Cake-house, Hyde Park, iv. 383.

Callcott, Sir Augustus, R.A., v. 134.

" Calves' Head Club," iv. 229.

Cam, Thomas, longevity of, ii. 195

Camberwell, vi. 269 ; etymology ; early
history ; mineral springs ; descent
of the manor, ib. ; the Grove, 272 ;
old residents ; the Bowyer family,
Bowyer House ; Literary and
Scientific Institution ; Wyndham
Roiid ; Flora Gardens, ib. ; St.
Giles's Church ; the old church ;
new church, 273 ; churchwardens'
accounts, 274 ; John Wesley and his
wife ; the " Little Woman of Peck-
ham ; " "Equality Brown ;" Cam-
den Chapel ; Rev. Henry Melvill ;
St. George's Church; Vestry Hall,
ib.; the Green; Camberwell Fair,
275; the "Old House on the Green,"
278 ; Green Coat and National
Schools ; Free Grammar School ;
Aged Pilgrims' Friend Asylum,
ib.; liutlerllics, 279; "The Cam-
berwell Beauty ; " Myall's Farm ;
Strawberries ; Coldharbour Lane ;
River " F.lTra ; " ElTra Road ; Den-
mark Hill Grammar School, ib.;
Dr. Lcttsom ; the Grove ; George
Barnwell, 280 ; Grove House
Tea-Gardens ; Camberwell Hall ;
Camberwell Club, 2S1 ; Collegiate
School, 283; Champion llill ;
" Fox-undcrtheTliU " Tavern; old

GENERAL INDEX.

58s

families and residents, 284 ; "Mili-
tary Association" and Volunteer
Corps, 285 ; growth of population ;
conveyances; " Caniberwell Coach;"
omnibuses and tram-cars ; Camber-
well House Lunatic Asylum, ib.

Camberwell Club, vi. 281.

Cambridge, H.R.H. the Duke of, iv.
161.

Cambridge Hall, Newman Street, iv.
467.

Cambridge Heath Gate, v. 50S.

Cambridge House, Piccadilly, iv. 285.

Cambridge Square and Terrace, v. 202.

Camden Chapel, Camberwell, vi. 274.

Camden, Lord ; Camden Town, v. 309.

Camden, the antiquary, Clarencieux
herald, i. 298 ; ii. 38, 375, 476 ; iii.
425, 472, 482.

Camden Town, v. 302 ; Lord Camden ;
Camden Town and Square ; High
Street ; Statue of Cobden, v. 309 ;
"Bedford Arms" Tavern, 310 ;
balloons ; music-hall ; Park Street ;
Royal Park Theatre ; " Mother Red
Cap," "Mother Black Cap," and
other inns, ib.; "Mother Shipton,"
Maiden Road, 311; Bayham Street ;
first home of Charles Dickens, 314;
Camden Road, 315 ; Camden Town
Athenaeum ; North London Railway
Station ; Tailors' Almshouses ; St.
Pancras Almshouses ; Maitland
Park ; Orphan Working School,
ib. ; Dominican Monastery ; Gospel
Oak Fields and Fair ; Dale Road ;
St. Martin's Church, 316 ; "Gospel
Oak " Tavern, 317 ; Great College
Street ; Royal Veterinary College,
322 ; Pratt Street, 323 ; St. Mar-
tin's-in-the-Fields' burial-ground ;
Charles Dibdin ; Agar Town, ib.

Camelford House, iv. 375.

Camelford, Lord ; his fatal duel, iii.
182 ; iv. 302, 446 ; V. 176.

Camomile Street, ii. 158, 165.

Campbell, Dr. John, iv. 554.

Campbell, Lord, iv. 81 ; v. 25.

Campbell, Sir Colin, v. 25.

Campbell, Thomas, poet, iii. 574 ; iv.
176, 250, 252, 408, 459, 460; vi.
296, 304, 306.

Campden House, Kensington, v. 130.

Campeggio, Cardinal, vi. 11, 226.

Canada Dock, vi. 141.

" Canal, The," St. James's Park, iv. 50.

Canals ; Paddington Canal ; Regent's
Canal, v. 219.

Canaletti ; View of Westminster Bridge,
iii. 381.

Cancer Hospital, v. 104.

Candle-makers in Cheapside, i, 304.

Candlewick Street (Cannon Street), i.

544-

Canning, George, i. 338; iv. 33, 257,
303, 326, 426 ; V. 104 ; vi. I08,
498, 566.

Cannon Row, iii. 380 ; canons of St.
Stephen's Chapel, ib.; Board of Con-
trol ; Civil Service Commissioners ;
Rhenish Wine House ; distinguished
residents ; last days of Charles L,

Cannon Street, i. 544 ; London Stone ;
Salters' Hall," 548 ; Salters' Hall
Chapel ; Arianism ; mysterious mur-
der, 549 ; South-Eastern Railway
Station, 550 ; Cordwainers' Hall ;
St. Swithin's Church, ib.

Canonbury, ii. 269 ; the Manor ; Priory
of St. Bartholomew's ; Sir John
Spencer ; his daughter. Lady Comp-
ton, ib. ; Canonliury House, ojd
carvings, 270,272 ; Prior Bolton, 270;
Goldsmith, 271 ; Church of England
Young Men's Association, 273.

Canterbury, Archbishops of ; Lambeth
Palace, vi. 42S-443.

Canterbuiy Music Hall and Gallery of
Fine Arts, vi. 416.

Canute, i. 236, 452 ; iii. 491 ; vi. 8,
101, 132, 134.

Canute's "Trench," vi. 341, 433.

"Capability" Brown, v. 154.

Carburton Street, iv. 458.

Cardinal's Cap Alley, vi. 32.

Carew, Thomas, iv. 26.

Carey, Henry, author of "Sally in our
Alley," ii. 335.

Carey House, Strand, iii. loi.

Carey Street, iii. 26.

Carlisle House, iii. 294.

Carlisle Lane, Lambeth ; Carlisle
House; residence of the Bishops of
Rochester, vi. 417.

Carlisle, Sir Anthony, iv. 453.

Carlisle Street Soho; " Merry Andrew
Street," iii. 177, 1S7.

Carlton Club, iv. 148.

Carlton House, iii. 146 ; Frederick,
Prince of Wales, iv. 86, 87 ; George
IV.; colonnade ; portico ; armoury,
86 ; state-rooms ; garden ; rookery ;
riding-house, 87 ; political faction ;
banquets; marriage of George IV.,
89 ; the Regency, 92, 95, 98 ; the
Princess Charlotte, 92-94 ; the
house demolished, 99.

Carlton House Terrace, iv, 99.

Carlton, Lord ; Carlton House, iv. 87.

Carlyle, Thomas, i. 65 ; v. 64.

Carnaby Street ; Pest-house and Pest
Field, iv. 239.

Caroline, Queen of George II., iv. in,
401 ; V. 69, 142, 145, 154 ; vi. 215.

Caroline, Queen of George IV., i. 35 ;
ii. 293, 512 ; iii. 410, 532 ; iv. 81,
82, 89, 92, 102, 178, 344, 418;
V. 146, 147, 185, 203, 354; vi. 197,
230, 458.

Carpenter, John, Founder of the City
of London School, i. 375.

Carpenters' Company and Hall, ii. 197.

Carr, Rev. Wm. Hohvell ; National
Gallery, iii. 145.

Carriage-builders, Long Acre, iii. 269.

Carriages, introduction of, iii. 269.

Carrington Street ; " Kitty Fisher," iv.
352.

Carter Lane, Tooley Street, vi. io6.

Cartwright, Major, iv. 575.

Cassell, the late John, i. 52 ; v. 220.

Cassivellaunus, his capital at Verula-
miura, i. 18.

Castle Baynard, i. 200.

"Castle," Paternoster Row, i. 271,
276 ; Richard Tarleton, 275, 276 ;
ordinaries, 276 ; " Castle Society
of Music," 278.

"Castle Tavern," Fleet Street, i. 63.

" Castle " Tavern, Holbom ; " Tom
Spring," ii. 536.

"Castle," Kentish Town, v. 321.

Castle Street, Holbom. {See Fumival
Street.)

Castle Street, Oxford Street, iv. 461.

Castlemaine, Countess of. {See Cleve-
land, Duchess of.)

Castlereagh, Lord, iv. 190 ; vi. 498.
Catacombs, ancient and modern, v.

407.
Catalpatree in Middle Temple Garden,

i. 1S2.
"Cat and Bagpipes," Downing Street,

iii. 392.
"Cat and Dog Money," ii. 152.
" Cat and Fiddle," a public -house

sign, iv. 261.
"Cat and Mutton" public-house. Cat

and Mutton Fields, v. 507.
"Cat Harris," iv. 223.
Catherine of Arragon, Queen of Henry

VIII., vi. 166. (i't^^also Katherine.)
Catherine of Braganza, Queen of

Charles II., iii. 92, 356 ; iv. 76,

105, 249; vi. 545.
Catherine Street, Strand ; derivation

of its name, no ; " Sheridan

Knowles " Tavern ; " Club of

Owls," iii. 282.
Catherine Wheel Alley, iv. 156.
" Catherine Wheel " Inn, Southwark ;

" Cat and Wheel " public-house,

Bristol, vi. 88.
Catnatch, James, printer ; broadsides ;

ballads ; last dying speeches, iii.

203.
Cato Street conspirators, ii. 76, 94,

454; iv. 340,410; V. 315.
Cattle Market, Deptford, vi. 149.
Cattle Market, Islington ; its failure,

ii. 282 ; new market, Copenhagen

Fields, 2S3 ; statistics, ii. 284 ; iii.

376.
Cattle Show, Smithfield Club, iv. 421.
Cattley, Nan, iv. 435.
Cats endowed by "La Belle Stewart,"

iv. 109.
"Cat's Opera," iv. 220.
Cauliflower Club, ii. 435.
Cave, Edward, ii. 317, 318, 320, 321 ;

iii. 512 ; iv. 461.
Cave's cotton mill, ii. 425.
Cavendish Club, iv. 454.
Cavendish, Hon. Henry, iv. 568 ; vi.

322.
Cavendish Square, iv. 442, 443 ; statues

of William, Duke of Cumberland,

and Lord George Bentinck, 444,

445 ; Harcourt House, 446.
Caxton, i. 381 ; ii. 20; iii. 488, 489,

490, 569; iv. 513.
Cecil Court, iii. 159.
Cecil Street, iii. loi, no.
Celeste, Madame, iii. 221.
"Celestial Bed," Dr. Graham's, iv.

124.
Cellar dwellings, St. Giles's, iii. 205,

207.
Cemeteries, ancient and modem, v.

409 ; Abney Park, v. 543 ; Bromp-

ton, V. loi ; Deptford and Lewis-
ham, vi. 246 ; Hampstead, v, 504 ;

Mile End, v. 576 ; Nunhead, vi.

291 ; Norwood, vi. 316; Stratford,

West Ham, v. 573.
Centenarians, iii. 201, 230 ; iv. 470,

479 ; v. 76, 130, 208, 558 ; vi. 161,

274, 521.
Centlivre, Mrs., iii. 256; iv. 80, 172.
" Century " Club, iv. 206.
Chabert, the Fire King, ii. 281 ; iv.

243-
Chalk Farm ; Chalcot Farm ; manor-
house of Upper Chalcot, v. 291 ;
duels, 293 ; Wrestling Club, 295 ;
" Chalk Farm " Tavern, 296 ;

586

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

sports ; Chalk Farm fair ; railway
goods and passenger stations, il/.

Chalon, J. J., v. 408, 44S.

Chaloner, Sir Thomas, ii. 329 ; vi.
550.

Challoner, Bishop, iv. 554.

Challoner, execution of, i. 94, 95.

Chalybeate springs, Sadler's Wells, ii.
290 ; Bermondsey Spa, vi. 129.

Chambers, Sir William ; Somerset
House, iii. 93 ; iv. 272, 464.

Champion, the King's ; antiquity of the
office ; the Dymokes of Scrivelsby ;
challenge at the coronation banquets
of Richard II., Henry VIII.,
William III., George I'V., iii. 544,

554, 555. 556, 557-

Chancery, Inns of, ii. 570.

Chancery Lane, i. 76 ; Rolls Chapel
and Rolls Court ; Masters of the
Rolls, 76, 77 ; Sir Julius Csesar ;
Sir Joseph Jekyll ; Sir William
Grant, 79 ; Sir John Leach ; Lord
Gifford, So ; Bowling Pin Alley ;
Wolsey's house, 80, 81 j birth-
place of Strafford ; house of Izaak
Walton, 82 ; Old Serjeants' Inn
and Hall, 83, 84 ; residence of Sir
Richard Fanshawe ; "Hole in the
Wall " Tavern ; Chichester Rents,
83, 84 ; Southampton Buildings ;
the "Southampton," 85, 86, 87;
Tooke's Court, 88 ; Cursitor Street;
Sloman's sponging house, 88, 89 ;
Law Institution, 90 ; execution of
Eliza Fenning, 92.

Chandos portrait of Shakespeare, iv.
177 ; v. 108.

Chandos Street, Cavendish Square, iv.

447-

Chandos Street, Covent Garden, iii.
268; the "Three Tuns;" "Sally
Salisbury," ib.

Chandos, the "princely" Duke of,
iv. 443, 448.

Change Alley, i. 472; "Garraway's;"
"Jonathan's, " ii. 172, 173.

Chantrey, Sir Francis, R.A. , iii. 142 ;
iv. 208, 253, 352, 497 ; V. 9, 10.

" Chapel of the Pyx," iii. 454.<

Chapel Street, Park Lane, iv. 369.

Chapel Street, Somers To\vn ; market-
place, V. 342.

Chapman's " Homer ; " his burial
place, iii. 231.

Chapone, Mrs., iii. 26.

Chapter Coffee House, Paternoster
Row, i. 278, 279.

Chapter House, Westminster. (Set
Westminster Abbey.)

Charing Cross, iii. 123 ; its name;
Queen Kleanor's funeral ; the cross,
tb.: its demolition; lines on its down-
fall ; Wyatt's rebellion, 124; statue
of Charles I. ; Marvell's lines, 125 ;
pillory ; execution of the regicides ;
shows ; Punch, 128.

Charing Cross Hospital, iii. 129.

Charini; Cross R.ailw.ay Station and
Hotel ; reproduction of the Queen
Eleanor cross, iii. 1 30.

Charing Cross Road, iii. 197.

Charing Cross Theatre, iii. 129.

Charity children at St. Paul's, i. 261 ;
Blake's poem, 262.

Charity Commission, iv. 203.

Charles I., i. 24, 26, 83, 86, 160, 161,

245. S"i. 50.? ; '"■ >43. 243. 253 ;

567; III. 347, 349, 350, 351, 352,

366, 368, 549 ; iv. 28, 52, 77, 78,
105, 107, 230, 512; v. Ill, 197,
200, 263 ; vi. 173, 386, 536, 537.

Charles II., i. 249, 405, 436 ; ii. 513 ;
iii. 125, 219, 315, 316, 345, 352,
370. 376, 405. 406, 437, 446, 549;
"'• 50> 75. 76, 77, 104, 109, 178,
232, 267, 268, 383, 512, 549 ; V. 24,
70, 74, 82, 125, 248, 397; vi. II,
15, 57, "52. 196, 227, 24S, 324,
392, 500.

Charles V. of France at Blackfriars, i.
200.

Charles X. of France, iv. 344, 422 ;
V. 125.

Charles Square, Hoxton, v. 125.

Charles Street, Berkeley Square, iv.

334, 338.

Charles Street, St. James's Square, iv.
20S.

"Charlies," nickname for watchmen,
iii. 22 ; iv. 244 ; vi. 57.

Charlotte, Princess, iv. 65, 82, 87, 92,
93, 94, 133, 279 ; V. 147, 203, 213.

Charlotte, Queen of George III., iv.
63, 64, 65 ; iv. 551 ; V. 58, 69.

Charlotte Street, Portland Place, Insti-
tutions, iv. 458 ; Morland, 472 ;
Church of St. John the Evangelist ;
Hogarth Club ; Dressmakers and
Milliners' Association, 473.

Charlton, Kent, vi. 231 ; etymology ;
St. Luke's Church ; interments ;
descent of the manor ; Sir Spencer
Maryon-Wilson; Charlton House, M.;
chapel ; state apartments ; museum
and park, 232 ; orangery ; cypress ;
market and fair; "Horn Fair,"

233-

Charlton Street, Somers Town ; the
" Coffee House," v. 344.

Charterhouse, ii. 380 ; Carthusian
Monastery, 381, 382 ; Sir Walter
de Manny ; rules of the Order ; dis-
solution of monasteries ; the prior
executed ; monks punished ; reve-
nues ; miracles, ib.; Queen Eliza-
beth ; Duke of Norfolk ; James I.,
3S3 ; Hospital and School founded
by Thomas Sutton ; biography of
Sutton, 383 — 3S7 ; government ;
poor brethren, 387 ; antiquities ;
water supply, 38S ; Charterhouse
Square and ISuildings, 389 ; chapel,
390 ; founder's tomb, 392, 393 ;
tomb of Lord Ellenborough, 392 ;
remains of Norfolk House ; Mas-
ter's Court ; Preacher's Court ;
Pensioner's Court, 394 ; school ;
hoop-bowling; " Hoop'l'ree," 395 ;
site purchased by Merchant Tay-
lors' Company, 395 ; " Co.ich
Tree ;" .School removed to Godal-
ming ; discipline and customs, 396 ;
fagging, 397; "pulling in," 398;
Thackuray ; 399, 400 ; Founder's
Day, 399, 401 ; plays ; Elkanah
Settle, 401 ; Archbishop Sutton ;
Basil Montagu ; John Leech ;
Bishop Thirlwall ; Havelock, 402,
404.

Chateaubriand in Kensington Gardens,
v. 158.

Chatham, Earl of, i. 387 ; iii. 425, 447,
526; V. 448.

Chaltcrton, i. 134, 278; ii. 173, 509,

545-
Chaucer, i. 32, 155, 305,347, 393, 575 ;
ii. 248; iii. 36, 97, 141, 430, 563 ;

V. 524; vi. 77—84; the "Canter-
bury "Tales," vi. So.

Chaumette, L. A. de la, Stock Ex-
change, i. 489.

Chaworth, Mr., his fatal duel with
Lord Byron, iv. 137.

Cheapside, i. 304 — 345 ; records in
Guildhall ; candle-makers ; illegal
goods destroyed, i. 304; conduit and
cross ; trade riots ; executions ; the
'prentices ; Westchepe Market, 305 ;
the pillory ; penance ; fish market ;
new conduit, 306 ; Lydgate's de-
scription of Chepe, 309 ; Gold-
smiths' Row ; other trades forbid-
den ; 'prentices and trained-bands ;
great riots, ib. ; "Evil May Day,"
310 ; shows and pageants, 315 —
332; tournament, 315; the Stan-
dard; Lord Mayor's Show, 317,
318, 320, 321, 322 ; state visit
of George II., 323 ; house of Mr.
Barclay, the Quaker ; William
Pitt, 324; George III.'s state visit
(1 76 1), 323 — 328 ; Lord Mayor's
State Coach, 32S; men in armour;
Sir Claudius Hunter and EUiston,

330 ; Midsummer Marching Watch,

331 ; bonfires, 333 ; fountain ;
punishments; the Cross, its vicissi-
tudes and destruction, ib. ; conduit
and water-carts, 335 ; Church of St.
Mary-le-Bow, 335 — 338 ; Barclay's
house ; carved oak panelling, 339;
" Queen's Arms " Tavern ; Statue
of Peel ; Saddlers' Hall, 341, 342;
Alderman Boydell, 343 — 346.

Cheapside Tributaries, North, i. 353 —

382.
Cheapside Tributaries, South, i. 346—

352.
Chelsea, v. 50; boundaries, 51 ; etymo-
logy; " Dwarfs " Tavern ; Chelsea
buns ; flower-gardens ; stag-hunt ;
history of the manor, ib. ; Cadogan
family, 52 ; old manor-house ; dis-
tinguished residents ; "Viscount and
Lady Cremorne, ib. ; Lindsey
House, 53 ; Shrewsbury House ;
paper manufactory ; Winchester
House ; Bishops of Winchester, ib. ;
Chelsea Church ; More's chapel
and monument, 58 ! Sir Hans
Sloane ; St. Luke's Church, 59 ;
Cheyne Walk, 59 ; Don Saltcro's
coffee-house, 61 ; John Salter's
Museum, 62 ; Richard Cromwell ;
Franklin ; Thomas Carlylc, 64 ;
Mrs. Carlyle ; Thames Embank-
ment, 65 ; Lombard Street, 66 ;
"Old Swan" and "Swan" Ta-
verns, 67 ; Albert Bridge ; Mul-
berry garden, 68; Doggetl's "coat
and badge " rowing match ; Swan
Brewery ; Royal Botanic Garden ;
Apothecaries' Company ; statue of
Sir Hans Sloane, ib. ; cedars ; (he
"Old Bun House;" royal visitors,
69; custards, 70; Chelsea Hos-
pital, 70, 71, 74, 75; "Snow
Shoes" Inn; Royal Military Asy-
lum, or Duke of York's School,
76 ; Cremorne Gardens ; Lord Cre-
morne, 84; "Stadium" Tavern;
balloons ; aerial machine, 85 ; Ash-
burnham House, 86; tournament;
King's private road ; St. Mark's Col-
lege,;/'. ,' "World's End " Tavern,
87; florists; Chelsea Common or

GENERAL INDEX.

587

Heath; Fulham Road, ib. ; Marl-
borough Square, 88 ; Whitehead's
Grove ; Pond Place ; nursery
grounds and orchards ; Jubilee
Place ; CheUea Park ; silk manu-
facture ; the "Goat in Boots" sign ;
" Queen's Elm " Hotel ; Queen
Elizabeth ; Jews' burial-ground ;
Little Chelsea, ib. ; Shaftesbury
House ; workhouse ; Robert Boyle ;
Church Street, 89 ; old inns, 90 ;
Chelsea China, 92 ; Lawrence
Street ; Monmouth House, 93 ;
Moravian Chapel ; "Clock-house;"
Glaciarium, v. 94 ; Hospital for
Women, 95 ; Vestry Hall ; Literary
Institution ; Congregational Church ;
Sloane Square ; Dispensary ; Royal
Court Theatre, ib. ; Sloane Street,
97 ; Trinity Church ; Wesleyan
Chapel ; Ladies' Work Society ;
School of Industry, ib. : Earl
Cadogan ; Cadogan Terrace, 98 ;
Cadogan Street, 99 ; "Marl-
borough " Tavern ; Hans Place ;
Prince's Cricket Ground, ib.

Chelsea Hospital, v. 71 — 75.

Chelsea Suspension Bridge, v. 41 ; vi.473.

Chelsea Water Works, iv. 179, 385,
395, 401 ; v. 83, 184 ; Aqueduct,
Putney, vi. 503.

Chemical Society, iv. 272.

Chemistry, College of, iv. 316.

Cherbury House, Great Queen Street ;
Lord Herbert of Cherbury, iii. 210.

Cherokee Kings, iv. 435.

Cherry Garden, Bermondsey, vi. 130.

"Cheshire Cheese Tavern," Wine
Office Court, i. 119, 122, 123.

Chester Square ; St. Michael's Church,
V. 12.

Chesterfield Gardens, iv. 356.

Chesterfield House, iv. 353 ; boudoir ;
library ; grand staircase ; music-
room ; drawing-room ; Dr. John-
son and the " Dictionary," ib., 358 ;
Countess of Chesterfield, 356.

Chesterfield, Philip, Earl of, iv. ill,
142, 353. 358. 39S, 539 ; vi. 210.

Chesterfield Street ; distinguished resi-
dents, iv. 353.

Cheverton, Sir Richard, ii. 332.

Cheyne Walk, Chelsea, v. 59.

Chichester Rents, i. 83 ; iii. 57.

Chick Lane. (iVt- West Street.)

Chicken House, Hampstead, v. 485.

" Children of Paul's," chorister boys,
i- 245-

Child's Banking House, i. 35 ; the
room over Temple Bar, 23, 30, 37,
461.

Child's Coffee House ; Addison ; Dr.
Mead ; Sir Hans Sloane ; Halley,
i. 266.

Child's Hill, Hampstead, v. 506.

Chimes of the Royal Exchange, i. 503.

Chimes of St. Clement Danes' Church,
Strand, iii. 12.

Chimney-sweepers at Mrs. Montagu's
feast, iv. 418.

"China Hall " Tavern, Lower Road,
Deptford, vi. 136.

Chinese Bridge, St. James's Park, iv.
58.

Chinese Collection, Mr. Dunn's, v. 22.

Chinese Junk, iii. 290.

Chirurgeons, iv. 545.

Chi-iholm, Caroline ; Female Coloniza-
tion, V. 423.

Chiswick, vi. 549, 557 ; early history,
550 — 555 ; Sutton Manor ; pest-
house in Chiswick Hall ; West-
minster School ; the plague ; Chis-
wick Ait or Eyot ; Parish Church ;
monuments, ib.; bells ; curfew, 551 ;
churchwardens' books ; plague and
"plague-water," 555; distinguished
residents ; Hogarth's House, 556 ;
his sun-dial and arm-chair, 557 ;
Griffin Brewery ; " Red Lion " Inn ;
old whetstone from the " White
Bear and Whetstone " Inn ; College
House, ib.: the " Chiswick Press ; "
Walpole House, 558 ; Chiswick
Lane, 560 ; Rousseau ; Mawson
Row ; old Manor House ; St.
Agnes' Orphanage, ib. ; Comey
House ; Corney Reach ; gardens
and fetes of the Horticultural So-
ciety, 566.

Chiswick House, vi. 562 ; lessees of
the manor ; successive ovraers ;
house converted into an asylum ;
the house ; gardens, ib. ; Inigo
Jones's gateway ; pictures, 563 ;
elephant, 565 ; royal visits ; Queen
Victoria and the Prince Consort,
ib. ; death of Fox and Canning
in the same room at Chiswick
House, 566 ; the house occupied by
the children of the Prince of Wales ;
royal garden parties, 566.

Chocolate houses, iv. 157; vi. 228.

Cholera in 1853, iv. 238.

Cholmeley, Sir Roger ; Grammar
.School, Highgate, v. 419, 421.

Choristers of the Chapel Royal, iv.
104.

Christ Church, Newgate Street, ii. 42S ;
the Grey Friars, 429 ; church rebuilt
by Wren ; interior ; exorbitant burial
fees ; monuments ; steeple ; Spital
sermons, ib.

Christ Church, Westminster Bridge
Road; "Lincoln Tower;" organ;
Rev. Newman Hall, vi. 362.

Christian Evidence .Society, i. 549.

Christie, auctioneer, iv. 128, 200.

Christmas-trees, iv. 65.

Christ's Hospital, i. 41 1 ; reception at the
Mansion House, ib. ; Grey Friars'
Convent, ii. 364 ; the old church ;
royal offerings ; Whittington's li-
brary ; school founded and given to
the City by Henry VIII.; confirmed
by Edward VI., ib. ; royal inter-
ments, 365 ; monuments sold by Sir
Martin Bowes, 366 ; Great Fire ;
church rebuilt by Wren ; its bene-
factors ; the mathematical school ;
"King's boys," A; the "Twelves;"
Hertford branch, 367 ; statues of
Edward VI. and Charles II., 368 ;
dining-hall ; picture of Edward VI.
renewing his gift, ib, ; of James II.
and the Blues, by Verrio ; other
pictures, 369, 376 ; celebrated
"Blues;" school days of Leigh
Hunt and Charles Lamb ; the boys'
dress, 369, 370 ; the dungeons ; cor-
poral punishment ; expulsion, 372 ;
Jeremy Boyer, 373 ; Coleridge ;
grammar school, 374 ; Easter gloves
and meat ; presentation governors,
375 ; public suppers ; visit of Queen
Victoria ; Spital sermons, 376 ; boys
presented to the Sovereign and
Lord Mayor ; Grecians' orations ;

University scholarships ; dietary,

379 ; infirmary ; dormitories ; Tice,

head beadle, 380.
Chronographer and Time Signals,

General Post Office, ii. 218.
Chudley, Duchess of, iii. 532.
" Chunee," iii. 116.
Church Entry, i. 303.
Church House, Hackney, v. 515.
Church Lane, St. Giles's, iii. 202.
Church-rates, v. 133
Church Row, Hampstead, v. 473.
Church Street, Chelsea, v. 89.
Church Street, Stoke Newington ; old

houses and eminent residents, v.

536.
Churches of London, statistics, vi. 574.
Churchill, Lady Arabella, iv. 184, 236.
Cibber, Caius Gabriel, CoUey, and

Theophilus, i. 41, 502, 503 ; ii.

146 ; iii. 220, 267 ; iv. 78, 161, 209,

222, 543 ; vi. 353.
" Cider Cellars," Maiden Lane, iii. 268.
Cipriani, John B., i. 32S ; iii. 366,

378; v. 59; vi. 514.
Circulating Libraries, iii. 77.
Cirencester Place, iv. 461.
City of London School, i. 375.
City of London Union, Hackney, v.

521.
City of London and Tower Hamlets'

Cemetery, v. 576.
City Road; "Eagle" Tavern and

"Grecian Theatre," ii. 227.
City Temple, Holborn Viaduct, ii. 501.
Civil and Military Club, iv. 454.
Civil and United Service Club, iv. 454.
Civil Engineers, Institution of, iv. 32.
Clandestine Marriages. (See Fleet

Prison ; May Fair.)
Clapham, vi. 320 ; Clapham Park ;

Thomas Cubitt ; the Common, ib.;

residence of .Pepys; residence of

Macaulay, ib.; Henry Cavendish,

322 ; Evangelical preaching, 323,

324, 325 ; " Clapham Sect " ;

" Claphamites," 321, 325, 326 ;

Bible Society, 326 ; " Plough " Inn,

327 ; Clapham Rise ; seminaries

for young ladies ; orphan asylum ;

Home for Incurables ; Clapham

Road, 327.
Clapham Junction Railway Station, vi.

483

Clapton, v. 521.

Clare Court ; Alamode Beef House ;

Dickens, iii. 284.
Clare Market, iii. 40 ; Earl of Clare ;

Holies family ; charter for market ;

Clare House, 41 ; the butchers as

dramatic critics, 42.
Clare Market Chapel, iii. 31.
Clarendon, Lord, iv. 273; vi. 152.
Clarendon Hotel, iv. 275, 295, 296,

303-
Clarendon House, Piccadilly, iv. 273.
Clarendon Square, v. 345 ; Life Guards'

Barracks ; Polygon ; artists ; Mary

Woolstoncraft and Godwin ; Roman

Catholic Chapel, ib.
Clarges, Anne, iii. 87, 104.
Clarges Street, iv. 263.
Clarke, Alderman, i. 416.
Clarke, Dr. Adam, ii. 327 ; v. 188.
Clarke, Dr. Samuel, iv. 255.
Clarke, Mary Anne, mistress of the

Duke of Vork, i. 80 ; vi. 230.
Clayton, Rev. John, Weigh House

Chapel, i. 564.

S88

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

Clayton, Sir Robert, Lord Mayor, i.

405, 42S, 520, 522 ; ii. 165, 367 ;

vi. 91.
Cleave's Police Gazette, smuggling of un-
stamped copies, i. 132.
Clement's Inn ; its history ; sun-dial ;

hall, iii. 33.
Clement's Lane, Lombard Street, i.

528, 529.
Clement's Lane, Strand, iii. 23, 25, 32.
Cleopatra's Needle, iii. 328.
Clergy Orphan Schools, St. John's

Wood, V. 250.
Clerkenwell, Clockmakers in, ii. 325.
Clerkenwell Close, ii. 32S ; "Crown"

Tavern ; eminent residents, ib. ;

private madhouse, 329.
Clerkenwell Green, ii. 332 ; mansions ;

pillory ; first Welsh Charity School,

ib. ; Lady Bullock's house attacked,

333-
Clerkenwell, House of Detention, ii.

309-
Clerkenwell Sessions' House, ii. 322.
Clerk's Well ; miracle plays, ii. 335.
Cleveland, Barbara, Duchess of, iii.
354, 356> 357; iv. 178; v. 172 ;
vi. 552, 558.
Cleveland, John, his poems, ii. 27.
Cleveland House. (See Stafford House. )
Cleveland Row, St. James's, iv. 176.
Cleveland Street, iv. 465 ; Strand Union

Workhouse ; Sick Asylum, 466.
Clifford Street, iv. 303 ; Clifford Street
"Club" and "Coffee House";
Messrs. Stuiz, tailors, ib.
Clifford's Inn ; Attorneys of the Mar-

shalsea Court, i. 92.
"Clinch, Tom, going to be hanged";

Swift's lines, ii. 527 ; v. 191.
Clinical Society, iv. 465.
Clink, Prison and Liberty of the, vi.

16, 32.
Clipstone Street, iv. 458.
Clissold Park, vi. 575.
Clive, Kitty, iii. 210, 221.
Clive, Lord, iv. 331.
" Clock House," Chelsea, v. 94.
"Clock House," Hampstead, v. 466.
Clock Tower and Clock, Houses of

Parliament; " Big Ben," iii. 519.
Clock Tower (Old), New Palace Yard ;

Bell; "Old Tom," iii. 537.

Clocks: St. Dunstan's, Fleet Street, i.

34, 133; St. James's Palace, iv. loi ;

St. Paul's, i. 256 ; striking thirteen,

257-

Clockmakers in Clerkenwell ; Horo-

logical Institute, ii. 325.
Cloth Fair, Smithfield, ii. 357, 363.
Clothworkcrs' Company and Hall, ii.
177 ; Fullers ; Weavers ; Burrel-
lers; Testers; Shearmen; Drapers;
Tailors ; schools and charities ;
royal members, 1 78 ; vi. 490.
Clowes and Sons' printing works, vi.

381.
Club-land : Pall Mall, iv. 140 ; St.

James's Street, 152.
Club Life of Covent Garden and its

neighbourhood, iii. 281.
" Coach and Horses " and " Coach
and Six," signs of taverns, iv. 261.
Coaches, iii. 336 ; iv. 428 ; amateurs of
the whip, 260, 261; "Coaching
Club," 400 ; Coaches on the
Thames; "Frost Fair," iii. 314;
in Hyde Park, iv. 381, 386, 3S7,
399 ; Lord Mayor's Coach, i. 328.

Coachmakers' Hall, i. 363.

Coal E.vchange, ii. 49 ; sea coal, 50 ;
prices ; duties ; weights and mea-
sures ; Pool measure ; master-
meters, ib. ; opening of new Ex-
change, iii. 337.

Coal Yard, Drury Lane, iii. 209.

Coat and Badge Boat Race, iii. 30S ; v.
67 ; vi. 59, 243.

Coates, " Romeo," i v. 399.

Cobbett, William, i. 52, 117, 446 ; iii.
75, 121 ; iv. 281 ; V. 130.

Cobden, Richard, M.P., v. 309.

Cobham, Lord, i. 45 ; ii. 65 ; iii. 200.

Cochrane, Lord. (See Dundonald,
Earl of. )

" Cock and Pie Ditch," iii. 216.

"Cock and Pie Fields," iii. 158.

"Cock and Tabard" Inn, Tothill
Street, iv. 17.

" Cock " Tavern, Fleet Street, i. 44.

Cocker, Edward, i. 266 ; Cocker's
Arithmetic, vi. 71.

Cockerel!, Prof C. R., R.A., i. 469;
iii. 470 ; iv. 155, 502, 532 ; v. 275.

Cock-fighting, ii. 309 ; iii. 39, 374 ; iv.

44-

Cocking, killed by fall of a parachute,
vi. 464.

Cock Lane, ii. 435 ; " Cock Lane
Ghcst ;" its contriver ; Dr. John-
son, 437; "Scratching Fanny;"
fraud exposed ; coffin of " Scratch-
ing Fanny " opened, 438, 4S9.

Cockpits ; Little Cock-pit Yard, iv.
551 ; the " Phcenix," Drury Lane,
iii. 39 ; Bird-cage Walk, iv. 44 ;
Whitehall, residence of Cromwell
and Monk, iii. 370 ; Privy Council
Office, 374 ; Tufton Street, West-
minster, iv. 38.

Cock-pit Gate, Westminster, iv. 26.

"Cock-pit" Theatre, Drury Lane, iii.
209, 218, 219.

Cockspur Street, iii. 144 ; " British
Coffeehouse ; " statue of George
HI., iv. 83, 84, 85.

"Cocoa Tree Club," iv. 157.

Coffee, early sale of, i. 44; ii. 172,
533 ; iii- 65 ; iv. 28, 153 ; vi. loS.

Coffins, Wicker, iv. 122.

Cogers' Hall, Shoe Lane, i. 124.

Coinage ; " Britannia " modelled from
"La Belle Stewart," iv. no; de-
preciation of, i. 455 ; " galley
halfpence," ii. 177. (AvMint.)

Coining process described, ii. 105.

Coiners, resort of, i. 74 ; iii. 21.

.191.

Coins and Tradesmen's Tokens, i. 514.
Coins, Roman, i. 21, 22 ; ii. 93, 149,
Coke, early manufacture of, vi. 196.
Coke, Sir Edward, i. 160; ii. 507,

5'9-
Coke, Sir Thomas, Lord Mayor, i.

399-
Colburn, Messrs., New Monthly Maga-
zine, iv. 312.
Colby House, Kensington, v. 124.
Coldbath Fields, ii. 29S ; the prison ;

silent system ; treadmill ; John Hunt

imprisoned, ib.
Coldbath Square, ii. 299 ; old bath,

300.
Cold Harbour, ii. 17 ; Poullney's Inn ;

Sir lohn Poultney ; Richard II. ;

Richlinl III., ib.
Cold Harbour Lane, Camberwell, vi.

279.

Coleman Street, ii. 243 ; Armourers'
and Braziers' Hall ; St. Stephen's
Church, ib. ; Cromwell and Hugh
Peters, 243 ; Cowley's " Cutter of
Coleman Street," 244.

Coleraine, Lord ; George Hanger, iv.
136; V. 294, 351.

Coleraine, the third Lord, iv. 136; v.

550. 556, 557-

Coleridge, Sir John Taylor, a-nd Sir
John Duke (now Lord Chief Jus-
tice), iv. 451.

Coleridge, S. T., i. 93 ; ii. 374, 430;
iii. 113, 263; v. 421, 422, 472; vi.

533-

Colet, Dean of St. Paul's, i. 242, 272,
273, 274 ; ii. 26, 140.

Colet, Sir Henry, Lord Mayor, i. 400.

College for Civil Engineers, Putney, vi.
491.

College for Men and Women, iv. 555.

College Hill, i. 381 ; ii. 25, 26; Mer-
cers' school, 26 ; St. Michael's
Paternoster Royal ; Cleveland's
poems. 27.

College of Arms, iv. 536.

College of Chemistry, iv. 316.

College of Physicians, i. 215; first
meetings at Linacre's house, re-
moved to Warwick Lane, 303 ;
lines by Dr. Garth ; Sir John
Cutler, miser; his statue, ii. 431 ;
early physicians, 431 — 434,; re-
moval to Trafalgar Square ; iii.

143-

College of the Poor, Soutlnvark, vi.

33-
College of Preceptors, iv. 555.
College of Surgeons, iii. 29 ; museum

and buildings, 46 ; library ; lectures,

47-
Collier, John Payne, i. 214, 230.
Collins, the poet, ii. 267.
Collins, William, R.A., v. 208.
Collyer, Rev. Dr., vi. 290.
Colman, George, elder and younger, i.

165; ii. 257, 297; iv. 95, 225; V. 26.
Colonial Office, iii. 392.
Colosseum, Regent's Park, v. 269 ;

Panoramas ; London, 270 ; London

by Night ; Paris ; Sculpture Gallery ;

Swiss chalet ; Skating Hall, 272 ;

alterations ; exhibitions ; pulled

down for building purposes, 273.
Colours ; political ; buff and blue, iv.

341-

Colquhoun, C. ; river desperadoes, iii.
302, 310.

Colton, Caleb, i. 146 ; " Lacon " and
other works ; his suicide, ib.

Columbarian Society, i. 46.

Columbia Square and Market ; Nova
Scotia Gardens ; Baroness Hurdctt-
Coutts ; the market and its build-
ings, V. 506.

Commercial Docks and Timber Ponds,
vi. 140.

Commissionaires, Corps of, iii. 120.

Common Council of London ; Council
Room, Guildhall, i. 390, 392.

Commons, House of. ySce Houses of
Parliament.)

Compter, Wood Street, i. 368.

Comptou family; Sir William Complon ;
Bnice Castle, Totlenliain, v. 540.

Compton, L.idy, daughter of Sir John
Spencer, i. 401 ; ii. 269.

Complon Street, Soho ; Bishop Comp-
ton, iii. 194.

GENERAL INDEX.

589

Concerts of Ancient Music, iv. 317.

Concord, Temple of, iv. 179.

Conduits : Fleet Street, i. 63 ; Cheap-
side, 305, 316, 317, 335; Comhill,
ii. 170 ; Holborn Bridge, 236 ; Aid-
gate, 246 ; White Conduit House,
280; iv. 550; Henry VIU. 's, Ken-
sington I'alace Green, v. 139 ; Bays-
water, 183.

Conduit Fields, Hampstead, v. 498.

Conduit-heads, Highbury and Penton-
ville, ii. 273, 279.

Conduit Street, iv. 249; "Conduit
Mead,' 324 ; shooting and hunt-
ing ; Limmer's Hotel ; Macclesfield
House ; Societies ; Trinity Chapel,
ib. ; residents, 326.

Conference Hall, Stoke Newington, v.
532.

Congregationalists imprisoned in Bride-
well, i. 191.

Congregational College, Hackney, v.

^ 513-

Congregational Memorial Hall, 11. ^OQ.
Congress Hall, Clapton, v. 522.
Congreve, Sir William, ii. 259 ; iii. 81,

S3, 417 ; iv. 3, 76, 172, 176, 179,

210, 306 ; vi. 231.
Conservancy of the Thames, i. 442 ; iii.

289.
Conservative Club, iv. 148, 156.
Constable, John, R.A., iv. 473 ; v.

472.
" Constabulary, The," Westminster,

ii'- 537-
Constantine, London Wall built by,

i. 20.
Constantinople, Emperor of, vi. 225.
Constitution Hill, iv. 177, 178, 179.
Consumption Hospital, Brompton, vi.

382.
Convent of the Good Shepherd, Ham-
mersmith, vi. 539.
Conway House, Great Queen Street,

iii. 210.
Cook, Captain, vi. 148.
Cook, Eliza, her poems, i. 59 ; vi. 70,

340.
Cooke, Sir W. Fothergill, F.R.S., v.

242.
Cooke, Thomas, miser, ii. 286.
Cookery, School of, v. 107.
Cooks ; Centlivre, " Yeoman of the

Mouth," iv. 80 ; a cook boiled to

death, vi. 417.
Coombe, William, "Dr. Syntax," vi.

69.
Cooper, Abraham, R.A., v. 408.
Cooper, .Sir Astley, ii. 166 ; iii. 121 ;

iv. 81, 326.
Coopers' Hall ; state lotteries, ii. 238.
Cope, Sir Walter ; Holland House, v.

162.
Copeland, Sir William, Alderman ;

memorial window in St. Helen's

Church, ii. 154.
Copeland, W. T., Lord Mayor, ii. 158;

iii. 28, 29 ; iv. 301.
Copenhagen Fields, ii. 275 ; " Coopen

Hagen ;" house and tea-gardens ;

fives-playing ; dog-fighting ; Corre-
sponding Society, ib.; trades unions ;

Robert Owen, ii. 276, 283 ; v. 374.
Copley, J. S., iv. 322 ; vi. 527.
Coram, Captain, v. 356 ; Foundling

Hospital ; his burial there ; portrait

by Hogarth ; statue by Marshall ;

biographical notice, 362, 365.
Corbel, Miles, regicide, vi. 552.
280— N.E.

Corbett, Mrs., her epitaph by Pope, iii.

569-
Cordcll, Sir William, Master of the

Rolls ; his epitaph, ii. 323.
Cordwainers' Hall and Company, i.

550.
Corinthian Club, iv. 454.
Cork .Street, iv. 309 ; eminent resi-
dents ; " Blue Posts " Tavern, ib.
Cornelys, Mrs. ; her masked balls in

Soho, iii. 189 ; iv. 244, 436 ; v. 21.
Comer, G. R., F.S.A. ; history and

antiquities of Bermondsey, vi. ill.
Corn E.Kchaiige ; history of the Corn

Market, ii. 179 — 183 ; famines ;

prices ; granaries, 180 ; com ports ;

markets ; assize of bread, 181 ;

factorage, 182.
Corney House ; Corney Reach, vi. 566.
Cornhill, ii. 170 ; Corn Market ;

drapers ; Tun Prison ; Standard ;

conduit; St. Michael's Church, ib.;

St. Peter's Church ; "Pope's

Head "Tavern, 171 ; Pope's Alley,

172 ; fires ; Change Alley ; St.

Michael's Alley ; first London

coffee-house; "Garraway's" shop

bill ; introduction of tea ; prices,

ib. ; "Jonathan's," 173; Freeman's

Court ; Finch Lane ; Birchin Lane ;

"Tom's Coffee-house," ib.
Corn-Law League Bazaar, iii. 234.
Corn-Law Riots, 1815, iv. 171.
Corn Mills, ii. 182 ; on London Bridge,

vi. II.
Cornwallis, Lord, his trial, iii. 550.
Coronation banquets, Westminster Hall,

iii. 544, 545, 554. 555. 556.
Coronation chairs, iii. 442.
Coronation ceremonies, from Harold

to Queen Victoria, iii. 401, 405,

406, 409, 410, 544, 554.
Correspondmg Society ; Thelwall, ii.

^75-
Corsica, Theodore, King of, iii. 182 ;

iv. 302.
Coryat, Thomas, his "Crudities," i.

352.
Costermongcrs, iv. 466 ; vi. 570.
Costume, i. 15S, 359, 443, 446; ii.

577; iii. 52, III, 443, 527, 534;

iv. 72, 75, 114—119, 167, 185, 197,

238, 24S, 260, 3S2, 383, 448 ; V.

15S ; vi. 173, 226.
Cosway, Richard, R.A., iv. 430.
Cottenham, Lord, iv. 448.
Cottington, John ("Mull Sack"), i.

40, 43-
Cotton's Garden and Cotton House, iii.

500 ; Cottonian Library, iii. 560 ;

iv. 490, 514, 560.
Cotton's Wharf; fire in 1S61, vi. 105.
County Fire Office, iv. 245.
Courier Newspaper, iii. 389.
Coursing, v. 3.

Court of Augmentations, iii. 563.
Court of Pie-poudre, ii. 344.
Court of Record, Stepney, ii. 138.
Court of Requests, Westminster, iii.

497-

Courts of Justice in the Tower, ii. (3'^.

Courts of Law, iii. 560 ; established at
Westminster ; Judges, ib. ; present
Courts built, 561 ; chopping sticks,
counting horse-shoes and hobnails,
ib.; " Tichborne Case," 562. (See
also Law Courts.)

Court Theatre, v. 95.

Courvoisier, murderer, ii. 457 ; iv. 375.

Coutts, Angela. (See Burdett H. Coutts,
Baroness. )

Coutts's Bank, iii. 104 ; Thomas Coutts ;
Sir Francis Burdett, 105.

Coutts, Harriett. (See St. Alban's,
Harriett, Duchess of.)

Covent Garden, iii. 23S ; the market
(see Covent Garden Market) ; the
site ; " the Convent Garden ; " pond
and spring, ib.; Duke of Somerset;
Earls and Dukes of Bedford ; Long
Acre ; Inigo Jones, 239, 242 ; Piazza
as a promenade and residence ;
Hogarth's " Morning," 240 ; famous
residents, 241 ; Gay's "Trivia ; " St.
Paul's Church and parish, 241, 242;
column with sun-dials, 243 ; hackney
coach-stands ; Mohocks ; highway-
men, ib. ; Powell's puppet-show,
249; "Bedford Coffee House,"

250 ; Floral Hall ; " Hummums,"

251 ; "Evans's" Hotel, 252;
elections and hustings, 257 ; " Black
Raven" sponging-house, 259 ; "The
Finish," 260.

Covent Garden Market, iii. 239 ; site,
origin, and early condition ; market
buildings ; tolls, 244 ; Strype's de-
scription, 242 ; best time to view it ;
basket-women, 245, 246 ; coster-
mongers ; flower-market, 248.

Covent Garden Theatre, iii. 227 ; built
for John Rich; "Rich's glory,"
ib. ; first performance; "Beefsteak
Club ; " ground-rent, 22S ; Handel's
" Messiah ; " Peg Woffington ;
George Anne Bellamy, 229 ; death
of Rich ; Harris ; Macklin ; house
rebuilt, 230 ; the Kembles ; Mrs.
Siddons ; Master Betty ; theatre
burnt down and rebuilt; "O.P. "
riots, 231 ; "Kitty" Stephens ; Miss
O'Neill ; Farren, 232 ; improved
costumes ; Planchc ; Osbaldistone,
Helen Faucit ; Macready ; Madame
Vestris and Mr. Charles Mathews ;
Bunn ; Corn-Law League Bazaar ;
JuUien's Concerts ; reconstructed as
the "Royal Italian Opera-house;"
Grisi ; Alboni, ib. ; receipts and ex-
penditure, 236 ; Fred. Gye ; again
burnt down and rebuilt ; present
theatre, ib. ; its cost, 237 ; Harri-
son ; Miss Pyne ; Balfe ; "guard
of honour," tb.

Coventry House, Piccadilly, iv. 285.

Coventry, Sir John, assault on, iv.
220, 231.

Coventry Street, iv. 233 ; Secretary
Coventry ; exhibitions ; Messrs.
Wishart, tobacconists, ib,

Coverdale, Miles, i. 574.

" Coverley, Sir Roger de," iii. 305,
442 ; iv. 39, 57 ; vi. 44S.

Cowan, Sir John, Lord Mayor, i. 414.

Cowley, iii. 297, 385, 476.

Cowley Street, Westminster, iv. 2.

Cowper, i. 44, 173; ii. 231 ; iii. 2S7,
474 ; V. 565.

Cowper's Court, ii. 173.

Cox, Bishop, ii. 518; Ely Place; Sir
Christopher Hatton, ib.

Crab, Roger, the English Hermit, ii. 140.

Crabbe, George, ii. 446 ; iv. 135, 202,
208, 294, 32S, 557 ; V. 431, 454.

Cr.abtree Street, iv. 472.

"Crab-Tree" Tavern, Fulham, vi. 514.

Craggs, Secretary; South Sea Bubble, i.
540, 541 ; iii. 417 ; iv. 305 ; vi. 2S1.

590

OLD AND N^ LONDON.

" Craig Telescope," Wandsworth, vi.
4S2.

" Cranbourn Alley ; " bonnets and mil-
linery, iii. 172 ; street songs, 173.

Cranbourn Street, iii. 161.

Crane Court, i. 104, 107 ; Royal So-
ciety ; Scottish Society ; Dryden,
Wilkes and the North Briton, ib.

Cranfield's Sunday Schools, Southwark,
vi. 70.

Cranmer, Archbishop, ii. 70 ; vi. 428,

430. 436-
Craven Cottage, Fulham, vi. 513.
Craven House ; Craven Hill, Bays-
water; Lord Craven, v. 185.
Craven, Lord, his house in Drury Lane,

iii. 37 ; the plague, iv. 15.
Craven, Sir William, Lord Mayor, i.

402.
Craven Street, formerly "Spur Alley,"

residence of Franklin ; James Smith's

epigram, iii. 134.
Crawford Street, Mar)'lebone, iv. 411 ;

St. Mary's Church, 412; Homer

Row, 411.
Creed Lane, i. 303.
Cremorne Gardens, v. 84 ; " Stadium ";

tavern ; Groof s fatal descent, 85 ;
the " captive " balloon, 86.
Cremorne, Lord and Lady; "Chelsea

Farm," v. 52, 84.
Creswick, lessee of Surrey Theatre, vi.

371-

Cribb, Tom, pugilist, v. 3.

Cricket, iv. 137 ; history and laws of;
Artillery Ground ; White Conduit
Fields ; Lord's Ground ; Maryle-
bone Club, v. 249, 250 ; vi. 268 ;
Kenninglon Oval, vi. 333.

Crimean Memorial, Westminster, iii.
477i 478; iv. 35; Guards' Memorial,
Waterloo Place, 209.

Criminals, Statistics of, vi. 570.

Crippled Boys' Home, Kensington, v.
136.

Cripplegate, ii. 229 ; the gate ; St.
Giles's Church, 229-232 ; perambu-
lation of the parish, 237 ; fox-hunt-
ing, 273.

Cripples' Nursery, iv. 407.

Crispe, Sir Nicholas ; his heart en-
shrined in Hammersmith Church,

•"• 536. 537-

Criterion Restaurant and Theatre, iv.
207.

Crockford, John ; Crockford's Bazaar
and Club House, iv. l6o, 201 ; v.
268.

Crockford's fish shop, iii. 20.

Croker, John Wilson, iii. 386 ; iv. 484;
vi. 516.

Croker, Thomas Crofton, vi. 518.

Cromartie, Lord, iii. 551.

Cromwell, Elizabeth, wife of the Pro-
tector, ii. 20.

Cromwell, Henry, v. 100.

Cromwell House, Brompton, v. 100.

Cromwell House, Highgate ; grand
staircase, v. 400 ; Convalescent
Home for Sick Children, 401.

Cromwell, Oliver, i. 431 ; ii. 28, 232 ;
iii- 23. 53; iv-S3; V- 100, III, 381,
534, 536; vi. 130, 386, 490, 536;
his death and funeral ; fate of his
body, iii. 370, 437, 540 ; iv. 27, 28,
545 ; V. 542 ; his head exposed at
Westminster Hall, iii. 539 ; now in
the possession of Mr. Horace Wil-
kinson, 302, 542,

Cromwell Place, Putney, vi. 491.

Cromwell, Richard, vi. 55.

Cromwell Road, v. loi.

Cromwell, Robert, v. 222.

Crooked Lane, i. 555 ; bird-cages and

fishing tackle ; Leaden Porch ; St.

Michael's Church, ib.
Crosby, Brass, Lord Mayor, i. 409 ; vi.

35°-

Crosby Hall ; Sir John Crosby ; occu-
pied by Richard IH. ; notices by
Shakespeare, ii. 154, 155 ; eminent
residents, 156; converted into a cha-
pel and warehouse ; Miss Hackett's
exertions for its restoration, 157.

Crosby Square, ii. 159.

"Cross Bones, The;" imconsecrated
graves, vi. 32.

Cross, Charing. (See Charing Cross.)

Cross, Cheapside, i. 305, 316, 317, 332,

364-
Cross, Edward; his menagerie, "King's

Mews," iii. 116, 141 ; removed to

Surrey Gardens, vi. 265, 266.
Cross, John, lessee of Surrey Theatre,

vi. 369.
Cross, Paul's. (&<• Paul's Cross.)
Cross, Stone, near Butchers' Row, iii.

II.
Crotch, Dr., vi. 527.
Crouchback, Edmund, son of Edward

n., iii. 447.
Crouch End ; Christ Church ; St.

Luke's Church, Homsey Rise, v.

437-
"Crown and Anchor " Tavern, Strand ;
Burdett ; O'Connell ; Cobbett, iii.

75-

Crown Court, Russell Street ; Scottish
National Church, iii. 280.

Crown Jewels in the Tower, ii. 77.
(See Blood, Colonel.)

Crown, State, of Queen Victoria, ii. 77,
80 ; its conveyance to the House of
Lords, iii. 528.

Crown Street, Soho ; "Hog Lane;"
Hogarth, iii. 196.

Crucifix Lane, vi. 41, 109.

Cruden, Alexander ; his " Concord-
ance," ii. 263.

Cruikshank, George, i. 87 ; v. 306 ; vi.
207.

Cruickshank the Elder, iv. 254.

Crusades and Knights Templars, i. 147.

Crutched Friars, ii. 250 ; Whillington's
Palace ; Priory ; Drapers' Alms-
houses, ib.

Crystal Palace, Hyde Park. [See Great
Exhibition of 1851.)

Crystal Palace, London. [See London
Crystal Palace.)

Crystal Palace, Sydenham, v. 38 ; vi.
308 ; site and prospect ; Paxton ; his
residence. Rock-hills ; history of the
undertaking ; opening ceremony ;
fire ; dimensions, ib. ; centre tran-
sept ; "Paxton Tunnel," 309;
.Screen of Kings and Queens, 310;
Crystal Fountain ; Handel Festival
Orchestra ; organ ; theatre ; Fine
Art Courts ; terrace and grounds ;
waterworks and fountains, ih. ; geo-
logical model ; antediluvian ani-
mals, 311 ; fetes; library ; reading-
room; lectures^ aquarium, 313.

Cubitt, Thomas, builder, v. 2, 22, 44 ;
vi. 320.

"Cuckold's Point;" "Horn l''air;"
legend of King John, vi. 142, 233.

Culpeper, Colonel, vi. 74.

Cumberland, Duke of (King George
of Hanover), iv. 70, II3.

" Cumberland, Duke of," public -house,
iv. 407.

Cumberland Gate, Hyde Park, iv. 395,
405.

Cumberland House, Pall Mall, iv. 124.

Cumberland Market, v. 299.

Cumberland, Richard, iv. 447.

Cumberland, William, Duke of, iv.
124, 370 ; vi. 333 ; statue in Caven-
dish Square, iv. 444.

Cuper's Gardens, Lambeth, vi. 388.

Cupid's Gardens, Dockhead, vi. 116.

" Curds-and-Whey-House," Hyde Park
Comer, iv. 365.

Cure, Thomas, vi. \i>.

Cure's College, Southwark, vi. 33.

Curfew, vi. 551.

Curiosity Shops, Soho, iii. J 76 ; iv.
470.

Curll, Edward, i. 48 ; iii. 264, 471.

Cursitor Street, ii. 531 ; Cursitor's Inn ;
the Cursitors ; Lord Eldon's "first
perch ;" his wife, ib.

Curtain Theatre, Curtain Road ; called
the "Green Curtain," ii. 195.

Curtis, Sir William, Lord Mayor, i.
329,411.

Curtis, William, botanist, v. 88; vi.
389, 415, 472.

Curzon Street, May Fair, iv. 347 ;
chapel ; secret marriages ; eminent
residents, 349, 351, 352.

Custards made at Chelsea, v. 70.

Custom House, ii. 52 ; successive
buildings ; revenue farmed ; its
growth ; New Custom House, 53 ;
Long Room ; quay ; officers and
clerks ; tide-waiters, 54, 55 ; statis-
tics ; statutes, 56 — 58 ; Queen's
Warehouse ; sales, 59.

Cutler, Sir John, miser, ii. 431 ; iii.

143-
" Cyder Cellars," The, iii. 119.
Cyoll, Cycillia ; Crosby Hall occupied

by her; her bequests, ii. 156.
Cyprus, King of, entertained by Sir

Henry Picard, i. 556.
"Czar of Muscovy" Tavcm ; Peter

the Great, ii. 98.
Czar of Muscovy's Head, Great Tover

Street, vi. 155.
Czar Street, Deptford, vi. 156.

D.

Dacre House, Lee, vi. 244.

Dacre, Lady, iv. 23, 40 ; v. 59 ; vi.

244 ; her Almshouses and School,

Dacre Street, Westminster, iv. 12,

22, 23.
D.igger in the City Arms, i. 398 ; ii. 5.
1 )aguerre ; the Diorama, v. 2O9.
Daguerreotype, iv. 254.
Daily News Office ; history of the

paper, i. 137—140.
Daily Telegraph ; Col. Sleigh ; J. M.

Levy, i. 160 ; progi'ess of the paper,

i. 61 ; iii. 20.
Dairies at Islington, ii. 255, 256;

Highbury ; Cream Hall, 273.
Dale, Rev. Canon, v. 353.
D.ilston, v. 529 ; early notices ; nur-

ser)'-grounds ; building ; railways ;

Refuge for Destitute Females, ib.;

German Ilo.spital, 530.

GENERAL INDEX.

591

Dalton, John, iv. 268.

Damer, Mr., his suicide, iii. 258.

" Damnable, Mother," v. 310, 311, 471.

Danby, Dick, the Temple barber, i.
167.

Dance, architect, i. 384, 387, 435 ; ii.
165, 195, 485.

Dancing ; studied by barristers at
Lincoln's Inn, iii. 51, 53 ; Almack's ;
the waltz, iv. 197 ; quadrilles,
198 ; ball at the coronation of
George IV., 199 ; vi. 389.

" Dandies '' in 1646, iv. 383 ; in 181 5,

399-
Danes, invasions of London, i. 448,

449, 450, 452 ; vi. loi, 164, 224.
Dangerfield publicly whipped, ii. 530.
Danish Church, Whitechapel, ii. 146.
Danvers Street ; Sir John Danvers,v.92.
Dartineuf, Charles, iv. 107.
Dartmouth, Earl of, vi. 245.
Dartmouth Road, Hammersmith ; St.

John's Church ; Godolphin School,

vi. 534-
Dashwood, Sir Samuel, Lord Mayor,

i. 322, 406.
Davenant, Sir William, i. 195, 196 ;

iii. 27, 31, 39, 40, 426.
David, King of Scotland, entertained

by Sir Henry Picard, i. 556.
Davidge, lessee of Surrey Theatre, vi.

371-

Davies, Lady Clementina, v. 128.

Davies, Mary, heiress ; married to Sir
Thomas Grosvenor, v. 16 ; Ebury
Farm ; Belgravia, 2, 3.

"Davies, Moll," iv. 184, 230, 231.

Davies, Sir Thomas, Lord Mayor ; his
show, i. 322.

Davies Street, Berkeley Square ; "Joe
Manton ;" Byron, iv. 335.

Davies, Tom, bookseller ; Johnson and
Boswell, iii. 275.

Davis, Sir John, expelled from the
Temple, i. 160.

Davy, Sir Humphry, iv. 269, 374.

Dawes's Almshouse, Wandsworth Lane ;
Sir Abraham Dawes, vi. 491.

Dawson, Capt. James ; "Jemmy Daw-
son ;" his execution, vi. 335.

Dawson, Nancy, iv. 554 ; v. 494.

Day and Martin, blacking manufactu-
rers ; Charles Day, the " Blind
Man's Friend," iv. 311, 549.

Dead-houses, iii. 303.

Dead Letters, ii. 212.

Deadman's Place, Bankside, South-
wark ; Cure's College ; almshouses,
vi. 32, 33, 40.

Deaf and Dumb Association and
Chapel, iv. 440.

Deaf and Dumb Asylum, vi. 251.

Dean Street, Park Lane, iv. 368.

Dean Street, Soho, iii. 194; Sir James
Tliomhill ; Royalty Theatre ; Miss
Kelly, ib.

Dean's Yard, Westminster ; Scholars'
Green ; window gardening, iii. 480 ;
Office of Queen Anne's Bounty, 4S2.

De Beauvoir Town ; Richard de Beau-
voir, V. 525 ; De Beauvoir Square ;
St. Peter's Church, 526.

" Decoy," St. James's Park, iv. 50, 53.

De Crespigny family, vi. 284.

Deer on site of Hyde Park ; hunting,
iv. 377. 379> 3Sio, 399 ; St. James's
Park a nursery for deer, 48, 50,
17S; in Greenwich Park, vi. 210,
212; royal parks; Eltham, ?39.

Defoe ; " History of the Plague," i.
515 ; ii. 142, 173, 268 ; iii. 276,
375: iv. 158; v. 521, 537.

Defoe Street, Stoke Newington, v.

537-

De Groof's aerial machine, v. 85.

Dekker, Ben Jonson satirised by, i.
422.

Delahay Street, Westminster, iv. 29.

Delane, Mr. John, i. 213.

Deloraine, Countess, v. 146.

Delpini, clown, iv. 245.

De Moret, proposed balloon ascent,
V. 2.

Denham, Sir John, i. 261 ; iii. 311 ;
iv. 262, 272.

Denman, Lord ; trial of Queen Caro-
line, iii. 532.

Denmark Hill Grammar School, vi.
579.

Denmark, Prince George of, vi. 214.

Dentists, Barbers acting as, vi. 63.

Denzil Street ; Denzil, Lord Holies,
iii. 42.

D'Eon, Chevalier, iv. 551 ; vi. 419.

Deptford, vi. 143 ; etymology ; "'\Vest
Greenwich ; " Upper and Lower
Deptford ; ship - building yard ;
parishes of St. Nicholas and St.
Paul ; Deptford Bridge ; the Ravens-
bourne, or Deptford Creek, ib. ;
historical notes, 144 ; corn and
other mills ; Henry VIII. and the
Navy, 145 ; Royal Dock, or
" King's Yard, 146; spinning hemp ;
manufacture of cables ; old store-
houses ; royal and distinguished
visitors; Edward VI., ib. ; mimic
sea-fight ; Queen Elizabeth ; Sir F.
Drake's ship, The Go/den Hind, 147;
Peter the Great ; famous ships ;
Pepys, 14S, 152 ; Dockyard closed ;
Foreign Cattle Market, 149 ; Saye's
Court ; Evelyn, 150, 152, 155 ;
William Penn, 154 ; Czar Street ;
workhouse, 156; "Red House"
Storehouse; "Royal Victualling
Yard," 158 ; Goods Depot of
Brighton Railway ; Corporation of
Trinity House ; hospitals for master
mariners and pilots ; St. Nicholas
Church ; interments, 160 ; churches,
schools, and institutions ; Evelyn
Street ; proposed Grand Surrey
Canal, 161 ; marine store-shops,
163.

De Quincey, i. 65.

Derby, Countess of (Miss Farren), iv.
340.

Derby, Earl of, iv. 159.

Dermody, Thomas, vi. 245, 305.

Derrick, executioner, v. 197.

Derwentwater, Earl of, i. 27 ; ii. 76,
95; iii. 202, 551.

Desborough Place ; Cromwell's brother-
in-law, V. 224.

Desenfans, Noel Joseph ; Dulwich Col-
lege Picture Gallery, vi. 302.

Despard, Colonel, vi. 253.

D'Este, Sir Augustus, v. 203.

Destitute Boys, Homes for, iii. 212.

Dethick, Gilbert, Garter King at Arms,

i. 294. 297.
De Veres, Earls of Oxford, v. 117,

178.
Devereux Court, Strand, iii. 65.
" Devil Tavern," i. 38 ; sign of St.

Dunstan and the Devil, 39, 42 ;

Apollo Club, 39, 41 ; Ben Jonson

and Randolph; "Mull Sack" and
Lady Fairfax, 40 ; Swift, Addison,
Garth, Cibber, Dr. Johnson, Mrs.
Lennox, 41; Pandemonium Club,42.

Devonshire Club, iv. 160.

Devonshire, Georgiana, Duchess of, iv.
129, 159, 275, 278 ; v. 81.

Devonshire House, iv. 275 ; pictures,
276 ; first Duke of Devonshire ;
Queen Anne, 278 ; George IV., 279;
Fox ; third and sixth Dukes ; Sir
Robert Walpole; Allied Sovereigns;
Princess Charlotte ; Count Boruw-
laski ; "Guild of Literature and
Art ; " Lord Lytton ; Dickens, ib.

Devonshire Square, Bishopsgate, ii.
159 ; "Fisher's Folly;" Queen
Elizabeth ; Earls of Devonshire,
162 ; Bank of Credit, 163.

Devonshire Tenace, Marylebone, resi-
dence of Dickens, iv. 430.

De Worde, Wynkyn, i. 63, 135.

Diamonds ; " Pitt " Diamond, iii. 531 ;
" Koh-i-noor," v. 38, 106.

Diana, Altar of, on site of Goldsmiths'
Hall, i. 361.

Dibdin, Charles, iii. 69, 170, 308; v.
323 ; vi. 36S.

Dibdins, The, at Sadler's Wells Theatre,
ii. 294.

Dice found under Middle Temple Hall,
i. 164.

"Dick's Coffee-house," Fleet Street,
i. 44 ; Miller's play, " The Coffee-
house ; " Cowper's insanity ; St.
Dunstan's Club, //'.

Dickens, Charles, i. 38, 137, 171, 292,
545; ii. 347, 350, 413, 4S5, 542,
573, 575; 1". III. 233. 237, 246,
281, 290, 296, 311, 382, 428, 512,
521, 557 ; iv. 70, 99, 193, 196, 201,
237, 254, 257, 279, 320, 407, 430,
442, 450, 458, 479, 540, 551, 561,
573; V. 65, 102, 140, 275, 293, 305,
353. 365, 407. 454, 456 ; vi. 61,
63, 87, 113, 205, 254, 281, 371, 406,

458, 576.
Digby, Sir Kenelm, ii. 159 ; iii. 252,

254.
Dilettanti Society, iv. 155, 196, 284.
Dilke, Sir Charles, and Sir Charles

Wentworth, Barts., v. 96.
Dilly, Edward and Charles, book-
sellers, i. 418.
Dimsdale, Sir Harry, iii. 183.
Dinely, Sir John, vi. 457.
" Dining with Duke Humphrey," i. 239.
Diorama, Regent's Park ; pictures by

Bouton and Daguerre ; converted

into a chapel, v. 269.
"Dirty Lane," Southwark, vi. 63.
Dispatch Newspaper, i. 59 ; Alderman

Harmer ; " Publicola," " Caustic ;"

Eliza Cook, /'/'.
Disraeli, Benjamin. (See Beaconsfield,

Earl of.)
D'Israeli, Isaac, i. 113; iv. 153, 218,

257, 274, 410, 542.
D'Israeli Road, Putney, vi. 491.
Dissenters' Free Library, Redcross

Street, ii. 239 ; removed to Grafton

Street East, iv. 570.
Dissenting chapels. Hackney, v. 5:3.
" Diver, jenny," lady pickpocket, v,

482.
Dividend-day at the Bank, i. 471.
Diving-bell ; Evelyn, vi. 147.
"Dobney's" Tavern, Pentonville ;

horsemanship, ii. 287.

592

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

Dobson, painter, patronised by Van-
dyke and Charles I., ii. 441.

Dockhead, vi. 1 1 3, 116; London Street ;
Jacob's Island, ib.

Docks at Rotherhithe, vi. 140.

Dockwra, Prior, St. John's Gate built
by, ii. 317.

Dockyard, Deptford. (See Deptford.)

" Dr. Johnson Tavern," Bolt Court, i.
114-

Doctors' Commons, i. 285 ; College of
Doctors of Law ; Court of Arches ;
Court of Audience, ib.; Prerogative
Court ; Court of Faculties ; Court of
Admiralty ; Court of Delegates,
286 ; Probate Court established ;
its effects, 2S6 ; Chaucer's " somp-
nour ;" doctors and proctors ; Com-
mon Hall, 287 ; Prerogative Office,
288 ; Faculty Office ; marriage
licences, 289, 290 ; touting for
licences, 292 ; singular wills, 293 ;
Cathedral Choir School, 293 ;
Savings' Bank, 293.

Dodd, Rev. Dr., his Ufe, trial, and
execution, i. 141 ; ii. 449 ; iv. 238,
543 ; V. 47, 193 ; vi. 348.

Dodington, G. B., iv. 123 ; vi. 540.

Dodsley, R., publisher, iv. 134, 256.

' Dog and Duck" Tavern, Mayfair, iv
352-

" Dog and Duck " Tavern, St. George's
Fields, vi. 136, 343, 344, 352.

Dog-fanciers ; Bethnal Green, ii. 14S.

Dog-fighting, ii. 308.

Doggett, Thomas, Coat and Badge boat-
race, iii. 308 ; v. 67 ; vi. 59, 243.

Dog-kennel Lane, Camberwell, vi. 269.

Dogs, iv. 50, 538 ; V. 3 ; vi. 369.

"Dog's Fields," Piccadilly, iv. 236.

"Dog's Head in the Pot," Blackfriars
Road, vi. 374.

Dole at St. Saviour's Church, South-
wark, vi. 21.

Dolittle Lane, ii. 36.

Doll manufactory, vi. 425.

' ' Dolly's " Tavern, Paternoster Row,
i. 278.

Domesday Book in Record Office, i.
loi.

Dominican Monastery, Haverstock
Hill, v. 316.

Dominicetti ; medicated baths, v. 60.

Donkeys on Hampstead Heath, v. 453.

Donne, Rev. Dr. John, i. 47, 76 ; ii.
414; iii. 38.

Don Saltero's Coffee House. (See
Salter, John.)

Dorchester House, Highgate ; Marquis
of Dorchester ; William Blake's
Charity, v. 424.

T)ori Gallery, Bond Street, iv. 302.

D'Orsay, Count, iv. 352; v. 119, 120.

Dorset, Charles, Earl of, iv. 27.

Dorset, Countess of, imprisoned in the
Fleet, ii. 414.

Dorset Gardens Theatre, i. 138, 140,

'95-197-

Dorset House, Whitefriars, i. 197.

Dorset Mews East, Paddington Street ;
French ^m/jr/ clergy, iv. 428.

Dorset Square ; first " Lord's Cricket
Ground," v. 260.

Dorset Street, Manchester Square ;
Charles Babbage, iv. 425.

Douce, Francis, iv. 574.

Doughty Street ; Dickens, iv. 551.

Doulion, Messrs., polteiy works, Lam-
beth, vi. 424.

Dover House, Whitehall ; Lord Dover ;
Lord Melbourne ; Duke of. York,
iii. 3S7 ; iv. 10, 60, 292.

Dover Street, iv. 274 ; eminent res -
dents, 292, 293.

Dowgate Hill, ii. 38.

Downing Street, iii. 388 ; residence of
First Lord of the Treasury ; Cabinet
Councils ; Walpole, Lord North,
Pitt, Grey, Melbourne, Peel, ib. ;
meeting of Wellington and Nelson ;
Stuart, proprietor of the Courier ;
Reform riots, 389 ; John Smith,
"king's messenger," 390; "Cat
and Bagpipes ; " George Rose ; old
Foreign Office; new Foreign, Indian,
and Colonial Offices, 392.

Dowton, comedian, iv. 194.

Doyle, Richard ; his contributions to
Punch, i. 59.

D'Oyley's Warehouse, Strand, iii. in.

Dragoon Guards. (See Guards, Horse
and Foot.)

Drainage, Main, v. 41.

Drake, Sir Francis, ii. 18 ; iii. 21 ; his
ship. The Golden Hind, vi. 147.

Drapers' Almshouses, ii. 112 ; vi. 257.

Drapers' Company, i. 516; clothiers and
staplers, 517 ; weavers' guild; Flem-
ish weavers ; wool staple and cloth
market ; first hall, ib. ; disputes with
the Crutched Friars, 518; dress or
lively of the Company ; elections ;
funerals ; banquets ; old customs,
ib. ; apprentices' fees and punish-
ments ; trade search ; pensions,
519; processions; charters; Great
Fire, 520 ; present hall ; pictures,
521 ; garden ; Arms of the Com-
pany, 522 ; bequests of Helen
Branch, 530 ; pageants, 548 ; Har-
mer's Almshouses, v. 525 ; Sail-
makers' Almshouses, 557 ; vi. 194.

Drawing Rooms at Court, iv. 105 ;
temp. Queen Anne, 113; a modern
Drawing Room, 114, 116; Court
dress ; hoops ; silk stockings ; hair
powder; wigs, 1 1 7, 1 18; hair; the
farthingale ; lace collars, 1 19.

Drayton, i. 47, 314 ; iii. 311.

Dreadnought, vi. 188.

Dream of the assassination of Spencer
Perceval, iii. 530.

Dressmakers' and Milliners' Associa-
tion, iv. 473.

Drinking Fountain and Cattle Trough
Association, iv. 41.

Drinking Fountain, Regent's Park, v.
266.

Drogheda, Countess of, married to
Wycherley, ii. 543.

Drowning in the Thames ; river-
waifs and dead-houses, iii. 292, 303.

Drug-mill of the Apothecaries' Com-
pany, Lambeth, vi. 418.

Drummond, Messrs., banking-house, iv.
80, 81, 159.

Drummond Road, Bermondsey, vi. 130.

Drury, Master ; his sermon at Hunsdon
House, Blackfriars i. 210; fatal
accident, 21 1.

Drury Lane, iii. 36 ; Hundred of
Drury ; Drury House ; " Cock and
Magpie," 38; the "Norfolk Giant,"
39; "Coal Yard, 209;" Oldwick
Close; "Cock-pit" Theatre;
" Plifcnix "Theatre ; Parker .Street ;
" White Lion ; " Flash Coves' Par-
liament, ib.

Drury Lane Theatre, iii. 218 ; first
styled " The Covent Garden
Theatre," " The King's Theatre,"
"The King's House," "Cockpit"
and "Phcenix" Theatres, ib.; Killi-
grew's " New Theatre in Drury
Lane," 219; "His Majesty's Ser-
vants," 220; their scarlet livery;
hours of performance ; Betterton ;
Mrs. Bracegirdle; Mrs. Oldfield ;
Booth; Cibber, ib. ; Quin, 221 ;
Macklin ; Garrick ; Kitty Clive ;
Mrs. Billington ; Miss Farren ;
Harriet Mellon ; Mrs. Jordan ; Mrs.
Robinson ; Kean ; Grimaldi ; Mrs.
Nisbet ; Madame Celeste ; Balfe's
Operas ; Malibran ; salaries, tb. ;
Theatre burnt, 224; rebuilt by Wren;
reopened ; Dr. Johnson's prologue ;
Mrs. Siddons ; John Kemble ;
theatre again rebuilt ; Sheridan ;
"Pizarro;" burnt down, ib.; the
"Rejected Addresses," 225; pre-
sent theatre ; Whitbread ; Van Am-
burgli ; Macready ; Bunn ; English
and Italian Opera, 226 ; auditorium
and stage, 227.

Dryden, i. 37, 46, 102, 195, 196, 545 ;
ii. 24, 220, 224, 529 ; iii. 264, 269,
276, 428, 474; iv. 27, 62, 75, 177 ;
vi. 152.

Duburg's E.xhibition of Cork Models,
iv. 342.

Duchess Street ; H. T. Hope's Art
Gallery, iv. 448.

Duchy of Lancaster, iii. 9.

Duck hunting, ii. 256 ; iv. 352 ; v. 46 ;
vi. 136, 343, 390.

Duck Lane, Smithfield, ii. 363.

Duck Lane, Westminster, iv. 39, 41.

Duck, Stephen, iii. 29.

Ducks in St. James's Park; "Duck
Island," iv. 50, 51, 56.

Ducksfoot Lane, ii. 28.

Ducrow, Petre and Andrew ; Astley's
Amphitheatre, vi. 401.

Dudley and Ward, Earl, iv. 353.

Dudley House, Park Lane ; the eccen-
tric Earl of Dudley, iv. 372, 373.

Dudley, Lord Guildford ; his execution,
ii. 95.

Dudley Street ; " Monmouth Street ; "
cellar rooms, iii. 205.

Duels, i. 44, 64 ; iii. 65, 113, l6l, 182,
2i^, 278; iv. 16, 77, 137, 171, 178,
251, 389, 483, 543; V. 176, 392,
293. 376, 526 : vi. 476, 498.

Dufferin Lodge, Highgate, v. 441.

Dugdale, Sir William, i. 294, 298.

' ' Duke of Albemarle " Tavern, iv.
274.

Duke of Norfolk's College, Greenwich,
vi. 196.

Duke of York's Column, iv. 76.

Duke of York's School, v. 76.

Duke Street, Bloomsbury, iv. 488.

Duke Street, Grosvenor Square, iv.

343-
Duke Street, Manchester Square, iv.

423.

Duke Street, Stamford Street ; Clowes
and Sons' printing works, vi. 381.

Duke Street, St. James's, iv. 201.

Duke's Place, Aldgate ; Jews' Syna-
gogue, ii. 248.

"Duke's Playhouse," Portugal Street,
iii. 27.

Duke Street, W'estminster ; distin-
guished residents ; Judge JefTreys ;

GENERAL INDEX.

593

State Paper Office ; Public Offices,
iv. 29.

Duke's Theatre, Holbom, iv. 552.

Dulwich, vi. 292; "Green Man;"
Dulvvich Wood ; hunting ; stocks ;
cage ; pound ; Bevv's Corner, 293 ;
Dulwich Wells, 294 ; Dulwich
Grove ; Dr. Glennie's School ;
Taverns ; Dulwich Club ; eminent
residents ; Manor House, 296 ;
Alleyn's College, 292, 297 ; the
founder's rules ; election of master
by lot, 299 ; government and re-
venue ; chapel ; font and palindrome
inscription, 301 ; Picture Gallery ;
Desenfans ; Sir Francis Bourgeois ;
New School Buildings, 302 ; Art
Schools ; " speech day," 303.

Duncombe, Sir Charles, goldsmith, i.

525-
Dundonald, Earl of, i. 479, 4S0 ; iv.

353. 374 ; V. 268.
Dunning, Lord Ashburton, i. 166 ; vi.

528.
Dunn's Chinese Collection, v. 22.
Danstan, Sir Jeffrey ; his eccentricities,

iii. 184 ; vi. 289.
Dunstan, St. ; punishment of unjust

moneyers, ii. 100.
Dunton, bookseller, i. 424.
Durham House, Strand; "Inn" of

the Bishops of Durham, iii. loi,

102, 103.
Dust and mud of London, vi. 572.
Dutch gardening, v. 153.
Duval, Claude ; Du Val's Lane, ii.

275; V. 195. 3Sl-
Dwarfs, i. 34 ; iii. 46 ; iv. 83, 220,

258, 279.
"Dwarfs" Tavern, Chelsea, v. 50.
Dwight's Pottery, Parson's Green, vi.

521.
Dyer, George, i. 93, loS ; ii. 266, 376.
Dyers' Buildings ; William Roscoe, ii.

S3I-
Dyers' Company ; swans and ' ' swan-

upping," iii. 303.
Dyers' Hall, ii. 41.
Dymoke family ; hereditary office of

King's Champion, iii. 544, 554, 555,

556, 557-
Dyot Street, Eloomsbury Square (now
George Street), iii. 207; "Turk's
Head " Tavern ; " Rat's Castle," a
thieves' public-house, iv. 487.

E.

Eagle Street, Red Lion Square, iv.

545-

" Eagle " Tavern, City Road, ii. 227.

Eagles, vi. 231, 28S.

Earl Marshal's Court. {Se^ Herald's
College. )

Earl Street, Westminster, iv. 4.

Earl's Court Road and Terrace, Ken-
sington, V. 161 ; Sir Richard Black-
more ; John Hunter ; skeleton of
O'Brien, the Irish giant ; Mrs.
Inchbald, !&.

Early Closing movement, i. 557.

Earthenware, Enamelled ; manufactory,
Battersea, vi. 47.

Earthquake shocks, iv. 365 ; v. 506.

East and West Coombe, vi. 224, 229,

Eastcheap, i. 560 ; cooks' and butchers'
shops; the " Boar's Head," i:^.,- old
signs ; Shakespearian dinners ;

James Austin's gigantic puddings ;
Falstaff; Goldsmith, 561 ; Wash-
ington Irving ; Shakespeare, 562,

563.

Easter Ball, Mansion House, i. 441.

East Country Duck, vi. 140.

Last India House, Leadenhall Street,
ii. 183 ; Court Room ; Library
and Museum ; history of the
Company, 184 ; India Stock ;
Board of Control; "John Com-
pany ; " extent of its business ;
Charles Lamb, 185 ; government
transferred to the Crown ; Council
of India, 186.

East India United Service Club, iv.
190.

Eastlake, Sir Charles Lock, P.R.A.,
iii. 148 ; iv. 473.

East London Railway, ii. 134 ; v. 227.

Eaton Square, v. 11.

Ebers, iv. 301.

Ebury, Manor of, v. 2, 15, 16.

Ebury Square, v. 12.

Ebury Street; " Eabery Farm," v. 2,
12.

Eccles, William, surgeon, ii. 202.

Eccleston Street ; Chantrey, v. 9, 10.

EcAo Office, iii. 1 10.

Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, vi.
249.

Edmonton, v. 564 ; the " Bell," and
Johnny Gilpin's Ride, il>. ; Charles
Lamb, 567 ; Church Street, 568 ;
a witch ; Rectory House ; fair, 569.

Edmonton Church ; tower ; restora-
tions ; monuments ; Peter Fabell ;
the "Merry Devil," v. 568.

Education ; systems of Bell and Lan-
caster ; pupil teacher system, vi.
368.

Edward I., ii. no; iii. 443, 494, 537 ;
vi. 165.

Edward HI., i. 556 ; iii. 433, 441.

Edward IV., i. 517 ; vi. 225.

Edward V., ii. 66 ; iii. 440, 485 ; v. 429.

Edward VI., ii. 364, 368 ; iii. 341, 346,
435; iv- 377, 5'°; vi. 60, 90, 91,
146, 166, 170.

Edward the Black Prince, i. 556 ; ii.
8; vi. 331.

Edward the Confessor, iii. 396, 424,
442, 443, 444, 452, 491, 567.

Edward Street, Marylebone, iv. 437.

Edwardes Square, Kensington, v. 161.

Edwards, Talbot, keeper of the regalia,
ii. Si, 93.

Edy, Simon ; St. Giles's beggars, iii.
207.

"Eel-pie House," Homsey, v. 430.

Effra, The River, vi. 279 ; Effra Road,
ib.

Egerton Club, iv. 156.

Egg, Augustus, R.A., v. 134.

Eggs, Plovers', ii. 496.

Eglinton Tournament revived, v. 86.

Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly, iv. 257 ;
Bullock's Museum : " Living Ske-
leton ;" the Siamese Twins, ib.;
"General Tom Thumb ;" Albert
Smith ; Maskelyne and Cooke ;
Pantherion, 258.

Eldon, Lord, i. 35, So, 89, 165 ; ii. 531 ;
iv. 2 1 9, 286, 567 ; vi. 442.

Eldrick's Nursery, Westminster, iv. 13.

Eleanor, Queen of Edward I. ; memo-
rial crosses ; Cheapside and Charing
Cross, i. 305, 317, 332; ii. 19; iii.
123. 441-

Elections for Westminster. {See Covent
Garden. )

Electric telegraph, v. 242 ; the old com-
pany ; Cooke and Wheatstone's
patents ; business taken by Govern-
ment ; transferred to the Post-
Office, tb.

"Elephant and Castle," Newington,
vi. 255.

Elephants, ii. 277 ; iii. 46, 1 16.

Elgin marbles, iv. 265, 286, 497,

532.
Eia, Saxon manor of; site of Hyde

Park, iv. 376.
Eliott, General, Lord Heathfield, vi.

399-

" Elizabeth Fry's Refuge, Hackney,"
V. 514.

Elizabeth, Queen of Edward IV., iii.
485 ; vi. 119, 165.

Elizabeth, Queen of Henry VII., i.
316 ; iii. 436.

Elizabeth, Queen, i. 25, 204, 244, 245,
2S4, 316, 365, 420, 495, 496, 514;
ii. 40, 69, 104, 149, 176, 226, 255,
383. 479. 51S, 554. 560 ; iii. 70. 73.
89, U4, 297, 309, 341, 344, 345.364.
404, 440, 446, 525 ; iv. 46, 53, 376,
377,477. 512; V. 3, 52, 5S, 88, in,
139. 536. 537 ; VI. iS, 53, 147, 167,
168, 170—173, 437.490, 5H-

Elizabethan Club, Westminster School,
iii. 477.

Ellenborough, Lord, i. 51, 52; ii. 392.

Ellis, Sir Henry, iv. 512, 51S, 525.

Ellis, Wynn, v. 14.

Elliotson, Dr.,F.R.S.,iv. 326; vi. 59.

Elliston, R. W., comedian, i. 329 — •
331 ; iii. 35; iv. 2; vi. 373, 411.

Eltham, vi. 236 ; " Eald-ham " market,
237 ; royal residence ; descent of the
manor ; barony of Eltham ; Henry
III.'s palace; John of Eltham;
Edward HI.; King John of France,
lb. ; Froissart, 238 ; parks and
buildings ; remains of the palace,
hall, bridge, and buttery, 239 ;
moat ; Middle Park ; Blenkiron's
racing-stud, 242 ; distinguished resi-
dents, 243.

Elwes, John, M.P., miser, iv. 242, 418,
442.

FJy, Bishops of; residence in Dover
Street, iv. 293.

Ely Place, ii. 514; "hostell" of the
Bishops of Ely ; vineyard and
orchard, ib. ; old gatehouse, hall,
and chapel ; streets built on the
garden; the "Mitre," Mitre Court ;
death of John of Gaunt, 515;
Shakespeare and the bishop's straw-
berries, 516 ; Sir Christopher
Hatton ; Bishop Cox ; Queen Eliza-
beth's letter, 518 ; death of Hatton ;
the " strange " Lady Hatton; hos-
pital and a prison, 519; feasts of
serjeants-at-law ; Joe Haines, 520 ;
masque before Charles I. described
by Whitelock, 521 ; mysteries and
miracle plays ; St. Etheldreda's
chapel, 525 ; crypt ; Evelyn ; Bishop
Willdns ; a loyal clerk, 526; restora-
tion of chapel, 526.

Embankments of the Thames, old ; Nar-
row Wall and Broad Wall, Lambeth,
vi. 387. {See Thames, The River.)

Emery, John, comedian, ii. 505.

Emery Hill's Almshouses and School,
Westminster, iv. lo.

594

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

Emmanuel Hospital for the Blind, v. 321.

Emmanuel Hospital, or Dacre's Alms-
houses, Westminster, iv. 12, 22,
24.

Empire Theatre, iii. 166.

Endell Street, formerly Belton Street,
iii. 207; Queen Anne's Bath ; Lying-
in Hospital ; Baths and Wash-
houses, 208.

Ennismore Place, v. 26.

Enoii Chapel, Clare Market, iii. 31.

Entomological Society, iv. 551.

Epitaphs, i. 227, 348, 349, 350, 351,
352, 362, 363, 365, 367, 371, 375,
376, 419, 514, 524, 527, 549, 550,

551. 552. 554, 556, 557. 558, 561;
ii. 20, 37, 40, 41, 112, 138, 140,

237. 245. 324. 329, 354. 392, 429.
505, 509 ; iii. 30, 201, 256, 418,

424, 425, 428, 430. 433. 436, 440.
441. 5^9, 570; iv. 345; V. 517, 518,
560, 56S ; vi. 28, 95, 472, 551, 562.

" Equality Brown," vi. 274.

Erasmus, i. 273 ; ii. 156 ; v. 53, 54.

Erber, The, Dowgate ; residence of the
Scropes and Nevilles, ii. 18.

Erectheum Club, iv. 184.

Erkenwald, Bishop, i. 236 ; Bishop's
Gate built by, ii. 152.

Ermin Street; Arminius, v. 531.

Ermin's Hill, Westminster, iv. 21.

Erskine House, Hampstead, v. 446.

Erskine, Lord, i. 164; iii. 530; iv.
298 ; V. 9, 446, 447.

Essex, Arthur Capel, Earl of, ii. 323.

Essex, Earl of, his imprisonment and
execution, ii. 71, 95.

Essex House, Putney, vi. 494.

Essex House, Strand, iii. 68, 71, 95 ;
execution of the Earl of Essex ;
Spenser ; Pepys ; Strype ; Paterson,
auctioneer ; Charles II., ib.

"Essex Serpent" Tavern, iii. 263.

Essex Street, Strand ; residents ; Uni-
tarian Chapel, iii. 69.

Essex, Thomas Cromwell, Earl of, ii.
93. 95. 5^1 ; vi. 492, 560.

Esterhazy, Prince, iii. 410; iv. 448.

Ethelbert, first authenticated church at
St. Paul's built by, i. 236.

Eton College ; land at Primrose Hill,
v. 287.

Etty, William, R.A., iii. 109.

Eucharist, Holy; mode of preparing it,
vi. 118.

Eugene, Prince, iii. 164.

Eugenie, Empress, iv. 422; v. 112.

Euston Road ; statuary ; " figure
yards," iv. 287 ; taverns and tea-
gardens ; gin palaces, v. 301 ; old
turnpike, 302; "Adam and Eve"
Tavern, 303, 354.

Euston Square, iv. 483, 485 ; statue of
Robert .^tephenson, v. 351, 352.

" Evangelicalism," iv. 478.

" Evans's Hotel," Covent Garden, iii.
251 ; " Paddy (Jreen," 254.

Evelyn, John, i. 248, 334 ; ii. 331, 526,

530. 543 ; iii- 38. 40, 74. io9. "36.
156,100,184,205,279, 297,314,316,
322. 356, 359. 436, 472 ; iv. 51, 56,
62, 104, 227, 251, 255, 260, 269, 273,
274. 275. 280, 292, 380, 381, 490,
536 ; v. 17, 47, 70, 134, 142 ; vi. 52,
55. 59. 74. 90, 147. 148, 150. '52.
•53. '59. '62, 176, 191, 195, 196,
207, 214, 239, 246, 271, 294, 321,

334. 342, 424. 441, 448, 501, 509.
520, 544, 561, 566.

"Evil May Day" (1513), i. 310—314;

ii. 192 ; iii. 545.
Examination Hall of Royal Colleges of

Physicians and Surgeons, iii. 328.
Exchange, Middle, Strand, iii. loi ;
New Strand, 104.

Exchange, Royal. (See Royal Exchange.)

Exchanger, The King's, i. 346.

E.\chequer "tallies," iii. 502, 521.

Excise Office, Old Broad Street ;
revenue ; riots, ii. 165.

Executioners at the Tower and Tyburn,
V. 197 ; Bull ; Derrick ; the Bran-
dons ; Dun; "Jack Ketch," ib.

Executions in Cheapside, i. 305 ; in
Smithfield, ii. 341 ; at Tyburn and
Newgate, 469 ; v. 189 — 209 ; in
Skinner Street, ii. 470 ; at St.
Giles's, iii. 200 ; at St. Thomas a
W'atering, Southwark, vi. 250.

Execution Dock, ii. 135.

Exeter Arcade, iii. 112.

Exeter Change, iii. 116 ; milliners'
shops ; the menagerie ; Pidcock ;
Polito; Cross ; the elephant " Chu-
nee," ib.

Exeter Hall " May meetings ;" orato-
rios, iii. 118.

Exeter House, Strand ; Bishops of
Exeter, iii. 66.

Exeter, John, Duke of; his tomb, ii.
1 18.

Exeter Street, Strand, iii. 112, 284.

Exhibitions. (See International Exhi-
bitions.)

Extinguishers for links, iv. 339, 445.

"Eyre Arms," St. John's Wood, v.
251.

Eyre, Charles, King's printer, i. 2lS.

Eyre, Sir Simon, Lord Mayor ; his
pancake feast, i. 399 ; ii. iSo, 188.

Eyre Street and Eyre Street Hill,
Leather Lane, ii. 544.

Fabell, Peter ; the " Men-y Devil of
Edmonton," v. 568.

Fagniani, Mademoiselle Maria, iv. 369 ;
v. 131.

Fagots, Chopping, ancient tenure cus-
tom, iii. 561.

Fairholt, Thomas, F.S.A., i. 20, 387,

.437-

Fairlop Fair, ii. 137.

Faiilop Oak, v. 353.

Fairs: on Tower Hill, ii. 117; West-
minster Fair, iv. 16 ; May Fair, 345 ;
Edmonton, Beggars' Bush Fair, v.
569 ; .Southwark Fair, vi. 14, 58 ;
Greenwich, 201 — 205, 208, 209 ;
Blackheath, 227 ; Camberwell, 275 ;
Peckham, 287 ; Clapham Common,
321 ; Kennington Common, 338 ;
Battcrsea Fields, 476 ; Wands-
worth, 488 ; Parson's Green, 518.

Fair Street, Horsclydown, vi, 109.

Fairfax, General, v. 166.

Fairfax House, Putney, vi. 490.

Fairfax, Lady, robbed by " Mull
Sack," i. 40, 43.

I'"alconbridge, Aldgatc attacked by,
ii. 246 ; vi. 9, 10.

Falcon Court, Fleet Street, i. 135 ;
Fisher and the Corilwainers' Com-
pany ; Wynkyn de Wordc, ib.

Falcon Square, part of old London
wall, i. 19.

Falcon Glass Works, vi. 41.
"Falcon" Tavern, Bankside ; Shake-
speare, vi. 41.
"Falcon" Tavern, Battersea, vi. 473.
Falcon's nest at the top of St. Paul's,

i. 256.
Falconri', iii. 129 ; Hereditary Grand

Falconer, iv. 47.
Famines ; regulations for supplies of

corn, ii. 180.
Fanshawe, Sir Richard and Lady, i.

83 ; iii. 22, 26.
Fantocini, vi. 288.

Faraday, Michael, F.R.S., v. 260, 407.
Farinelli, iv. 211.
Farm Street, Berkeley Square ; Jesuit

Church, iv. 335.
Farnborough, Lord ; National Gallery,

iii. 146.
Farncomb, Lord Mayor ; banquet to
Prince Albert and provincial
mayors, i. 416.
Farren, Miss (Countess of Derby), iii.
221, 232.

Farringdon Market, ii. 497.

Farringdon Road Station, Metropolitan
Railway, v. 227.

Farringdon Street, ii. 496 ; Ward of
Farringdon Without ; W. Farindon,
goldsmith ; John Wilkes, alderman,
lb. ; Fleet Street bankers, 497 ; Far-
ringdon Within ; Fleet Market ;
transfer of the Stocks Market ; Far-
ringdon Market, ib. ; watercresses ;
Congregational Hall and Library,
SCO.

Farthing Alley, vi. 1 14.

Farthings; first coined, i. 514; Queen
Anne's, ii. 104.

Fashion ; westward extension of the
metropolis, iv. 246, 248, 483, 484.

Fashions in dress, iv. 167, 176, 238,
246, 339, 399, 400. (.Si"^ Costume.)

Fastolf, Sir John, vi. 87, III.

Faucit, Miss Helen, iii. 233.

Fauconberg, Countess of, daughter of
Cromwell, vi. 551, 556.

Fauntleroy's forgeries, i. 459 ; ii. 455 ;
v. 181, 412.

Fawkes, Guy ; Gunpowder Plot, ii. 73 ;
iii. 548, 563, 566 ; vi. 449.

F.iwkes, the conjuror, iv. 232.

Feather-sellers in Blackfriars, i. 201.

"Feathers'" Inn ; George IV., v. 8.

Featherstone Buildings, iv. 552.

Fell, Dr., iii. 47O.

Fellmongers, vi. 124.

" Fellmongers' Arms " Tavern, vi. 123.

Fellowship Porters' Hall ; sermon in
St. Mary-at-llill Church; Ticket
porters ; Tackle porters, ii. 52.

Felton, murderer of the Duke of Buck-
ingham, ii. 74, 98 ; V. 190.

Female barbers, iii. 122, 206.

Female Convict Prison, Brixton, vi. 319.

Female Royal Academicians, iv. 272.

Female prize-fighters, iv. 455, 477.

Female soldiers, v. 94.

Female telegraph clerks, ii. 216.

Ferrers, Earl ; his execution, ii. 471 ;
iii. 551 ; V. 191, 437.

Ferries : site of London Bridge, vi. 3 ;
Blackfriars, vi. 383; Battersea, vi.
474 ; Putney, vi. 489, 501.

Festnig, Colonel Sir F. W., vi. 247.

I-"enchurch Street, ii. 175 ; Northumber-
land House ; .St. Catherine Coleman
Church ; the Pl.iguc ; Ironmongers'
Hall, i."6; Denmark House; St.

GENERAL INDEX.

595

Dionis Church ; St. Margaret Pat-
ten's Church, 177.

Fenning, Eliza, e.xecuted for murder,
i. 92.

Fenning's Wharf; fire in 1S36, vi. 105.

Fetter Lane, i. go ; its name; CHfford's
Inn ; Waller's plot ; execution of
Tomkins and Challoner, 91, 94;
" Praise - God Barebone," 95 ;
Charles Lamb, 96 ; " Captain
Starkey ; " Hobbes of Malmesbury,
97 ; Levett, apothecary, gS ; Eliza-
beth Brownrigge ; Paul Whitehead ;
Flatman, poet and painter, 99 ;
Moravian Chapel ; Sacheverel's
trial; Count Zinzendorf; Baxter;
Independent Chapel, 100 ; Public
Records ; Domesday Book ; Record
Oflice, loi ; Dryden and Otway ;
Dryden's House, 102.

Fever Hospital, Hampstead, v. 491.

"Fielding, Beau," iii. 330; iv. 178,

387.
Fielding, Copley, iv. 467.
Fielding, Henry ; Haymarket Theatre,

iv. 222.
Fielding, Sir Godfrey, Lord Mayor, i.

399-
Fielding, Sir John, ii. 550 ; iii. 100,

272, 2S6;'iv. 238, 2S7, 303, 435,

436 ; vi. 455.
Field Lane, Holborn ; stolen handker-

chiels, ii. 542.
" Field of the Forty Footsteps," iv.

482.
Fife House, Whitehall Yard, iii. 335 ;

Earl of Fife ; Earl of Liverpool ;

East India Museum, 336.
Fifth Monarchy men, i. 370.
Figg, prize-fighter, and his theatre, iv.

406, 430, 455 ; vi. 58.
" Figure-yards ; " statuary ; Piccadilly;

Euston Road, iv. 287.
Finch, Hon. John, stabbed by "Sally

Salisbury," iii. 268.
Finch Lane, CornhiU, ii. 173.
Finch, Lord Chancellor, iii. 45 ; v.

142.
Finch, Sir Heneage, i. 161.
Finch's Grotto Gardens, Southwark,

vi. 64.
"Finish, The," Covent Garden, iii.

260.
Finsbury, ii. 201 ; Finsbury Fields ; Pro-
tector Somerset ; archery, 251, 254.
Finsbury Chapel, ii. 209.
Finsbury Park, v. 431.
Finsbury Pavement, ii. 208.
Finsbury Square, ii. 206.
Fire-arms, Museum of, vi. 290.
Fire Brigade, i. 554. ; vi. 65.
Fire-engines, ancient, iii. 575 ; steam,

iv. 244 ; syringes for extinguishing

fires, ii. 176.
Fires : in the Temple, i. 161 ; Houses

of Parliament, iii. 521 ; Alexendra

Palace, v. 435; Barclay's Brewery,

vi, 35 ; Tooley Street, 105. (See

Great Fire of London.)
Fireworks : Peace Festival (1814), iv.

54; Green Park {1749), 179, 183,

394 ; Marylebone Gardens, 434,

43Si 436 ; Ranelagh Gardens, v.

77 ; Surrey Gardens, vi. 265, 266 ;

Peace Celebration (1S56), v. 291.
Firs, The, Hampstead ; Firs on Hamp-
stead Heath, v. 448.
" Fish and Ring," Story of the, ii. 140.
Fish in the Thames, iii. 302.

Fish Markets : CornhiU ; Cheapside,
i. 306 ; Queenhithe ; prices of fish ;
regulations of sale ; whales and por-
poises, ii. 2 ; Billingsgate Market.
{Sef Billingsgate).

Fishmongers' Almshouses, Newington,
vi. 257 ; Wandsworth, 481.

Fishmongers' Company and Plall, ii. i ;
Sir William Walworth, i, 2; rules
for sale of fish ; wealth of the Fish-
mongers, 2, 3 ; affrays between Fish-
mongers and Skinners, 3 ; Great
Fire ; second hall, 4 ; present hall ;
" Sir William Walworth's " pall, 5 ;
Doggett's coat and badge, iii. 308 ;
model dwellings, Walworth, vi. 268.

Fish Street dinners, ii. 8.

Fish Street Hill ; the Black Prince ;
Jack Cade, ii. 8.

Fisher, John, Bishop of Rochester,
ii. 14, 66, 95, 108 ; iii. 546 ; vi. 10.

" F'isher, Kitty," iv. 352.

Fisher Street, Red Lion Square, iv.

549.

Fisher's gift to the Cordwainers Com-
pany, i. 135.

Fishery at Putney ; salmon ; porpoises ;
sturgeons, vi. 48g.

Fitz-Alwyn, Henry, Lord Mayor, i.
396, 520, 521 ; ii. 248.

Fitzherbert, Chief Justice, ii. 562.

Fitzherbert, Mrs., "iv. 94, 98; v. 112,
275 ; vi. sig.

Fitzpatrick, General, iv. 158.

Fitzroy Market, iv. 473.

Fitzroy Square ; Charles Fitzroy, Duke
of Grafton ; the brothers Adam, iv.

473-

Fitz-Stephen, iii. 463.

Fitzwalter, Maud, imprisoned in the
Tower, ii. 64.

Fitzwalter, Robert, banner-bearer to
the City ; barony of Baynard's
castle, i. 28r, 282, 284.

"Five Fields," Belgravia, v. 2.

"Five Houses" (pest-houses), Tothill
Fields, iv. 14, 15.

"Fladong's" Hotel, Oxford Street,
iv. 423.

Flambard, Bishop of Durham, ii. 63.

Flambeaux, iv. 137, 231.

Flambeaux-extinguishers, iv. 339, 445.

Flamsteed, John, astronomer, ii. 94 ; vi.
155,213,214.

Flanders mares, iv. 387.

" Flash Coves' Parliament," iii. 20g.

" Flask " Inn, Highgate, v. 418, 423.

" Flask " T.avcrn, Hampstead ; the
"Upper Flask," "Lower Flask,"
V. 459,460, 461, 467.

Flask Walk, Hampstead, v. 467.

Flatman, poet and painter, i. 99; ii.
221.

Flaxman, John, R. A., sculptor, iii.
231, 265, 540 ; iv. 469, 497, 569.

" Fleece" Inn, York Street, iii. 285.

Fleet Market, ii. 497.

Fleet Prison, ii. 404 ; wardens appointed
by Richard I. and John ; burnt by
Wat Tyler ; wardens' fees and fines,
16. ; Star Chamber prisoners, 405 ;
burnt down in the Great Fire, and by
the Gordon rioters ; John How'ard ;
the tapster, 405, 408 ; begging
box ; abuses by Huggins and Barn-
bridge, 406 ; debtors put in irons ;
Hogarth's picture of the Committee,
407, 408 ; " liberty of the rules ;"
"day rules," 409 ; Fleet man'iages ;

Fleet Chapel, 410 ; " Hand and
Pen" marrying-house, 411 ; "Mr.
Pickwick ; " Dickens' account of
the Fleet, 413 ; distinguished pri-
soners, 414 ; marriage register
books, 416.

Fleet River and Fleet Ditch, ii. 416 ;
"the River of Wells;" its sources,
course, and tributary streams, 16. ;
"the Hole-bourne;" " Hockley in
the Hole ;" " Black Mary's Hole ;"
antiquities ; anchors, 417 ; Fleet
Hythe ; ships at Holborn Bridge ;
mills ; Fleet Bridge, 418, 419 ;
Bridewell Bridge ; navigation, 419 ;
Pope's lines on the ditch, 420 ;
Gay's " Trivia ;" Swift ; Turnmill
brook ; stream covered in, 422 ;
floods ; storm ; ditch blown up ;
sewer ; main-drainage system ; ex-
plorations, 423, 444, 467.

Fleet Street, i. 32 ; riots in the Middle
Ages ; shops, temp. Edward II. ;
Duchess of Gloucester's penance,
i6.; 'prentice riots ; Templars and
citizens ; Titus Oates ; Mohocks ;
shows, 33 ; giants and dwarfs ;
sign-boards ; Dr. Johnson, 34 ;
Wilkes' riot ; burning of the
"boot ;" Queen Caroline's funeral,
35 ; Messrs. Childs' bank, 23, 30,
35. 37> 38; "Devil" Tavern,
38 ; Apollo Club and Ben Jonson,
39, 40 ; " Mull Sack " and Lady
Fairfax, 40, 43 ; Swift ; Addison,
41 ; sign-board of the " Devil ;"
Pandemonium Club, 42 ; " Cocl<
Tavern;" "Dick's Coffee-house;"
St. Dunstan's Club ; the "Rainbow
Tavern ; " Bernard Lintot, 44 ;
Lord Cobham's house ; Green Rib-
bon Club ; " Palace of Henry VIII.
and Wolsey ;" "Nando's" Coffee-
house ; Mrs. Salmon's waxwork,

45, 48 ; Tonson, 46; Iz.aak Walton,

46, 49 ; Praed's and Gosling's
banks ; John Murray's shop, 46 ;
St. Dunstan's Church ; clock and
giants, 34, 133, 135 ; Drayton's
house, 47 ; Edmund Curll ;
early booksellers, 48 ; printers ;
the " Hercules Pillars ; " Hoaie's
bank, 50; the "Mitre Tavern;"
Cobbett ; Peele's Coffee - house ;
Repeal of the Paper Duty, 52-;
the " Green Dragon ; " Tompion,
watchmaker ; Pinchbeck ; Ander-
ton's Hotel; St. Bride's Church, 55;
newspaper offices, 53, 56, 59, 60, 61,
62, 64, 66 ; Wynkyn de Worde ;
conduit ; " Castle Tavern," 63, 64 ;
Joseph Brasbridge, 65 ; Alderman
Waithman, 66, 68 ; M 'Ghee, the
black crossing-sweeper, 68 ; John
Hardham, tobacconist ; Lockyer's
saloop-house, 6g ; roasting the
Rumps, 95, 96.

Fleetwood, General, v. 534, 543.
Fleetwood Road, Stoke Newington, v.

537-

Fletcher, John, dramatist, vi. 27.

Fletchers. {See Archery. )

Fleur-de-Lys Court ; unstamped news-
papers, i. 104.

Flint, Patience, centenarian, iv. 470.

Flogging at Bridewell, i. 191.

Flood in Westminster Hall, iii. 548.

Floorcloth, manufacture of, v. 25.

Floral Hall, Covent Garden, iii. 251.

596

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

Florio, John, i. 123, 124.
Flower-girls, Hyde Park, iv. 387.
Fludyer, Sir Samuel, Lord Mayor, i.

323—328, 407 ; iv. 50.
Fludyer Street, Westminster, i. 407 ;

iv. 29.
"Flying Coach." (.SV^ Stage-coaches.)
" Flying Horse " Tavern, Hackney, v.

514.
Foley Place, iv. 458.
Foley Street ; Foley House, iv. 452.
Folly Ditch, Dockhead, vi. 1 14.
" Folly, The," on the Thames, iii.

290.
Food supply ; statistics, vi. 572.
Foote, Miss (Countess of Harrington),

iii. 232.
Foote, Samuel, iii. 65, 250, 275, 278,

285 ; iv. 223, 224 ; vi. 526.
"Footman;" "Running Footman"

Tavern, iv. 334.
Footpads. (5' <? Highwaymen.)
Fordyce, Alexander, stockjobber, i.

476.
Fordyce, Dr. George, iii. 69.
Foreigners, jealousy of; "Evil May

Day," i. 310, 311.
Foreign Office, iii. 392 ; old office.

Downing Street ; new office ; Sii"

G. G. Scott and Lord Palmerston ;

the building described, ib.
Forest of Middlesex, v. 426, 429, 527,

531-

Forgery of Bank notes by " Old Patch ;
other forgeries, 1. 459 ; George Nor-
land ; John Mathison, 464; death
punishment, 466 ; Bank losses, 467 ;
Fauntleroy, 459; Vaughan, 461.

Forrester, Alfred, ^" Alfred Crowquill,")
vi. 331.

Forster, John, v. 138, 140.

Forster, Sir Stephen, Lord Mayor, i.

225. 399-
Fortescue and Pope, i. 75 ; iii. 22, 51,

65-
Fortescue, Sir John ; Temple students,

i. 156.
Fortifications during the Civil War, ii.

138, 256; iv. 178, 238, 289, 380,

538 ; vi. 9, 344, 467.
Fort Road, Bermondsey, vi. 125.
Fortey, W. S., ballad-printer, iii. 203.
"Forty Footsteps, Field of the," iv.

482.
Fortune Theatre, The, Whitecross

Street, ii. 224.
Foscolo, Ugo, iv. 443, 464; v. 172,

268, 290 ; vi. 551.
Foster Lane, i. 353 ; Goldsmiths' Hall;

churches, epitaphs, 362, 363.
Foubert's Passage, iv. 251.
Founders' Hall, St. Swithin's Lane, i.

55'-

Foundling Hospital, v. 356 ; esta-
blished by Captain Coram, ib. ;
parliamentary grant ; reception of
infants ; basket at the gate ; abuses ;
tokens for recognition, 357 ; grant
withdrawn ; money ])remium for
admission ; present rules, 358 ;
names of children ; country nur-
series ; education ; apprenticeship,
359 ; royal visits ; pictures ; Ho-
garth ; "March to P'inchlcy,"362 ;
Handel'sbenefactions ; the Messiah;
organ, 364 ; statue of Coram, 365.

Fountayne, Dr., his academy, Mary-
Icbone, iv. 429 ; Handel, 434.

Four-in-Hand Club, iv. 400.

"Four Swans," Bishopsgate, ii. 161.
Fowke, Captain, R.E., v. 105.
Fowke, Sir John, Lord Mayor, i. 404 ;

v. S13.
Fowler, John, C.E. ; Metropolitan

Railway, v. 226, 22S.
" Fox and Bull " Inn, Knightsbridge,

v. 21.
"Fox and Crown Inn," Highgate, v.

412.
Fox, Charles James, iii. 417; iv. 89,

107, 121, 129, 158, 159, 543 ; V.

171 ; vi. 565.
"Fox Club," iv. 159.
Fox Court, Gray's Inn Lane ; birth-
place of Savage, ii. 552.
Fox, George, founder of the Quakers'

sect, ii. 174.
Fox-hunting in London, iv. 323 ; v.

154-

Fo.x-hunting on the Thames ; " Frost
Fair," iii. 323.

" Fox-under-the-Hill " Tavern, Den-
mark Hill, vi. 284.

" Fox-under-the-Hill ' Tavern, Strand,
iii. lOl, 296.

Fox, Sir Stephen, v. 70, 76, 168 ; vi.
566.

Foxe, the martyrologist, ii. 231, 340.

Framework Knitters' Company, v. 525.

Francis ; his attack on the life of Queen
Victoria, iv. 179.

Francis, Sir Philip and Lady, iv. 190.

Franklin, Benjamin, iii. 26, 214; iv.
539 ; V. 64.

Fraser's Magazine ; its editor and con-
tributors, iv. 251.

Fratricide, legendary, at Kilbum, v.
246.

Frederick, Sir John, Lord Mayor, i.
404; ii. 367.

Freelmg, Sir 1"., ii. 212 ; iv. 412.

Freeman's Court, ii. 173.

Freeman's " London Progresse ; "
spread of London, v. 392.

Freemasons' Charity Schools for Girls,
vi. 350, 472.

Freemasons' Hall and Tavern, iii. 213 ;
former and present Hall ; public
meetings and dinners ; eminent
Freemasons, ib.

Freemasons' Lodge at the " Goose and
Gridiron ; " old Lodges near St.
Paul's, i. 272.

Freemasons ; Prince of Wales inau-
gurated as Grand Master, v. 115.

Free Public Library, Westminster, iv.

36.
Free-Thinking Christians Meeting

House, ii. 323.
French Hospital, Bethn.il Green, re-
moved to Victoria Park, ii. 148.
French Hospital, Hackney Common,

v. 509.
French Industrial Exhibitions, v. 29.
French Plays, iv. 193, 195, 222.
French Protestant Churches, ii. 228 ;

iii. 208.
French refugees in Leicester Square,

Soho, and St. Giles's, iii. 161, 172,

177, 200 ; iv. 466, 553 ; v. 51, 341 ;

vi. 480.
French weavers in Spitalfields, ii. 152.

vi. 570.
Frescoes at Houses of Parliament, iii.

507, 508, 516.
Friar Street, i. 303.
Friday Street ; the Friday Market

Place, i. 437.

Friendless Boys' Home, Wandsworth,

vi. 483.
Friend of the Clergy Corporation, iii.

155-
Friern Place, Peckham Rye, vi. 292 ;

Friern Manor ; dairy farm, ifi.

Frith Street, iii. 177 ; " Thrift Street ; "
residents, 192, 194.

Frobisher, Sir Martin, ii. 230.

" Frog Hall," Islington, ii. 262.

Frognal, Hampstead, v. 501 ; Frognal
Priory ; Frognal Hall, 502.

Frosts on the Thames, iii. 311 — 321 ;
"Frost Fair " (1683), 312 ; Fog and
"Frost Fair" (1814), 317.

Frosts ; Serpentine frozen over, iv. 402.

Fry, Jlrs. ; Ladies' Prison Visiting As-
sociation, ii. 459 ; vi. 439.

Fryar, Peg, centenarian actress, iii. 28 ;
iv. 479.

Fulham, vi. 504 ; etymology ; water-
fowl ; boundaries ; Egmont Villa ;
Theodore Hook, 505, 506, 507 ;
church, 506, 507 ; tower and bells ;
monuments ; Bishops of London ;
church plate ; Powell's Almshouses,
508; Craven Cottage; distinguished
residents, 513; the "Crab Tree"
Inn ; cemetery ; market -gardens ;
High Street ; " Golden Lion " Inn ;
Workhouse, 514; Fulham Road;
Holcrofts Hall ; Holcrofts Priory,
515; Elysium Road; Orphanage
Home; Munster House, 516;
Dwight's pottery ; Gobelin tapestry
factory, 521 ; Vine Cottage ; Prior's
Bank, 523 ; the " Swan " Tavern,
524; Stourton House, 525 ; Ranelagh
House ; Mulgrave House ; Hurling-
ham House ; aristocratic sports ;
Broom House; Sandford Manor
House ; residence of Nell Gwynne ;
Addison ; St. James's Church,
Moore Park, ii.

Fulham Palace, vi. 508 ; moat and draw-
bridge ; hall ; chapel ; Porteus
library ; portraits ; floods ; gardens ;
cork-tree ; cedars, 509 ; Lying clubs ;
"lying for the whetstone ; " Bishop
Porteus, 510; the manor; royal
visits; history of the moat, 512.

Fulham Road, v. 87.

Fulwood's Rents, ii. 536.

Funerals and funeral leasts, i. 231, 519.

Fumival's Inn, ii. 570 — 572.

Furnival Street, ii. 531.

Fuseli, R.A., i. 268, 345 ; iv. 4^8, 464 ;
V. 477 ; vi. 494.

Fust, Sir Herbert Jenner, i. 291.

Fyefoot Lane, ii. 37.

Gaiety Theatre, iii. 112.
Gainsborough, iv. 124, 371.
(iallery of British Artists, iv. 230.
Gallery of Illustration, iv. 208.
Galley Wall, Bermondsey, vi. 131 ;

Venetian galleys, 132.
Gallini, Sir John, iv. 317, 318 ; v. 251.
"Gallows Close," v. 17S.
Gait, John, iv. 574.
Galvanism applied to a murderer's dead

boily, ii. 471.
Gambling, iv. 141, 153, i??, 158, 160,

161. 162, 221, 236, 284, 332, 359,435-

GENERAL INDEX.

597

Game pie, i. 394, S49-

Gaming. (5« Gambling.)

Gaol fever ; Newgate, ii. 467.

" Garbeller of spices, " i. 431.

Gardener's Lane, Westminster, iv. 29.

Garden of Drapers' Hall, i. 522.

Gardens at Chelsea, v. 51.

Gardens, London, iv. 567.

Gardens on the banks of the Thames,
iii. 300.

Gardens on the Thames Embankment,
iii. 324, 328.

Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester, ii.
566.

Garenciers, Dr., ii. 329.

Garnerin's balloon, v. 81.

Garnet, Father, i. 245, 265, 395 ; ii. 15,
73 ; " the face in the straw," i. 265.

Garratt, hamlet of, Wandsworth, vi.
485 ; encroachments on the com-
mon resisted ; club ; " Mayors of
Garratt ;" mock election, 486 ;
Foote's farce, 488.

'* Garra way's " Coffee House ; his shop-
bill ; early prices of tea, ii. 172 ; vi.
108.

Garrick, David, i. 69 ; ii. 146, 173,
317 ; iii. 28, 213, 221, 250, 264, 267,
278, 296, 425; IV. 128, 134, 154;
vi. 551.

Garrick, Mrs., iii. 213, 267, 296 ; iv.
248.

Garrick Street, iii. 263 ; Garrick Club ;
theatrical portraits, ib.

" Garrick's Head" Tavern; "Judge
and Jury Club," iii. 273.

Garter King at Arms, i. 296 ; iv. 536.

Garth, Sir Samuel, i. 41, 71, 215, 217,
218 ; ii. 363, 431 ; iii. 144 ; iv. 158 ;
V. 179.

Gascoigne, Sir Christopher, Lord
Mayor, i. 407.

Gascoigne, Sir Crisp, Lord Mayor, i.

435-
Gascoigne, Sir Wm., ii. 560 ; vi. 64.
Gascon wines, ii. 22.
Gas-lighting, history of, i. 195 ; iv. 8,

59. 137. 339 ; V. 236.
Gas-lighting of railway carriages, v.

228.
Gas supply ; gas companies, v. 236 ;

statistics ; progress of consumption,

237 ; vi. 467.
Gate House and " Gate House " Inn,

Highgate, v. 390, 418.
Gate House Prison, Westminster, iii.

479 ; prisoners, 489 ; Royalists ;

Lovelace ; " the German Princess ;"

Jeffrey Hudson ; Jeremy Collier ;

Savage ; Raleigh ; a debtors' prison ;

keeper's fees, ib.
Gate Sireet, Lincoln's Inn Fields, iii.

215
Gatti, Messrs., Refreshment Rooms,

iii. 134.
Gauden, Sir Dennis, vi. 321.
Gaunt, John of, i. 238, 239; ii. 515 ; iii.

100 ; vi. 332, 386.
Gay ; the South Sea Bubble, i. 543 ; his

"Trivia," ii. 422 ; iii. 45, 74, no,

112, 116, 205, 240, 315; iv. 125,

141, 161, 176, 177, 305 ; V. 70, 167,

470; vi. 134.
Geddes, Dr., v. 210.
Geese, French and Irish, ii. 495.
Gefferey's Almshouses, v. 525.
General Post Office, ii. 209 ; first offices,

159 ; old office, Lombard Street, i.

526 ; Penny Post temp. Cliarles II.,

ii. 210; revenues farmed, 212,;
London Post ; Ralph Allen ; John
Palmer ; statistics ; Post Office,
Lombard Street ; mail - coaches ;
Money Order Office ; Sir Francis
Freeling ; Sir Rowland Hill ; Penny
Postage ; Office in St. Martin's-le-
Grand ; dead letters ; sorting ; valen-
tines, ib. ; Savings Bank Depart-
ment; revenue, 213 ; Telegraph De-
partment, 214, 215 — 219 ; New Post
Office, 215 ; female clerks, 216 ;
chronopher; time-signals, 218; an-
nual procession of mail-coaches, iv.
3 ; Mulready's Envelope, vi. 382.

Gentleman's Magazine ; Cave ; Dr.
Johnson; St. John's Gate, ii. 317,
319, 320, 321.

Geographical Society, iv. 309.

Geological Society, iv. 271.

George I., i. 250, 406; iii. 29, 152,
161, 469; iv. 59, III, 210, 212,
339, 544; V. 124, 142, 145.

George II., i. 323 ; iii. 435 ; iv. 81,
Jil. 153, 232, 237, 356 ; v. 69, 80,
93, 142, 145. 146, 569.

George HI., i. 106, 251, 392 ; iii. 144,
147, 164, 406 ; iv. 63, 64, 65, 85,
loi, ioi, 307, 317, 408, 490, 509,
540 ; V. 8, 27, 69, 86, 164, 170, 201 ;
vi. 197, 2S9, 304, 399, 403, 500.

George IV., i. 146; ii. 278; iii. 118,
142, 154, 183, 190, 206, 212, 231,
409; iv. 58, 64, 68, 89-98, 102, 158,
165, 189, 199, 238, 244, 268, 284,

317, 326, 332. 333. 353. 424, 497.
567; V. 21, 27, 102, 112; vi. 519,
522, 533-

' ' George and Vulture " Tavern, Tot-
tenham, V. 553.

"George" Inn, Southwark, vi. 85;
landlords' "tokens," 86.

George of Denmark, Prince, iii. 384.

George Street, Bloonisbury, iv. 487.

George Street, Hanover Square, iv.
321 ; St. George's Church ; Copley ;
Lord Lyndhurst, 322.

George Yard, Whitechapel, ii. 145.

Gerard's Hall ; Norman crypt, i. 556.

Gerard's " Herbal ;" his physic garden,
Holborn, ii. 539; vi. 341.

Germain, Lord George, iv. 136.

German Anabaptists burnt, i. 243.

German Chapel, St. James's, iv. 76,
106.

German Fair, iv. 453.

German Hospital, Dalston, v. 530.

German residents in London ; statistics,
vi. 570.

Gerrard, Sir Samuel, Lord Mayor, i.
406.

Gerrard Street ; residence of Dryden
and Burke, iii. 1 78.

Ghost-stories, v. 135, 164; Cock Lane
Ghost, ii. 437, 489; "Hammer-
smith Ghost," vi. 548; "Stockwell
Ghost," vi. 328.

Giants shown in Fleet Street, i. 34 ;
Robert Hales, the " Norfolk Giant,"
iii. 39 ; O'Brian, the Irish Giant,
iii. 46, 144, 168; iv. 84, 220, 221.

Giants, The, in Guildhall, i. 384, 3S6.

Gibbets, ii. 135 ; Hampstead, v. 448,
454 ; Blackheath, Shooter's Hill,
vi. 234 ; Putney Heath, 497 ;
Fulham Road, 515.

Gibbon, Edmund, i. 154; iii. 279; iv.
159, 164, 167, 442 ; vi. 494.

Gibbons, Grinling, i. 221, 250, 256, 530;

iii. 273, 369 ; v. 141, 569; vi. 153,

. 537-
Gibbon's Court, Clare Market ; theatre,

iii. 41.
Gibbon's Tennis Court, iii. 43.
Gibbs, architect, iii. 152 ; iv. 430, 442.
Gibson, Right Hon. Milner, M.P. ;

repeal of the Paper Duty, i. 52.
Giffard, Dr., i. 62.
Gifford, Lord, i. 80.
Gifford, William, iv. 25, 257.
Gill, Rev. Dr., Baptist Chapel, Carter

Lane, vi. 106.
Gillray, caricaturist, iv. 167.
"Gilpin, John" ; Cowper's poem, v.

565.
Giltspur Street, ii. 485 ; the Compter,

487 ; its removal ; Pie Comer ;

cooks' stalls ; termination of the

Great Fire, 488.
Gipsies, vi. 263, 292, 293.
Gipsy Hill, Norwood, vi. 314.
Girdlers' Hall ; girdle-irons ; master's

crown, ii. 238.
Girls' Home, iv. 458.
Gladstone, Mrs., Female Servants'

Home, iv. 456.
Glass ; Vauxhall Plate Glassworks, vi.

424.
Glass painting, "Field of Cloth of

Gold," iv. 471.
Glasshouse Street, Golden Square, iv.

237-
Gleichen, Count, iv. 443.
Glendinning's Nursery, vi. 562.
Glennie, Dr., his school at Dulwich;

Byron, vi. 296.
Globe Club, i. 61.
"Globe Permits," a bubble company,

i- 532-

" Globe Tavern," Fleet Street, i. 61.

Globe Theatre, Bankside, vi. 40, 45 ;
sign and motto ; boxes or " rooms ;"
galleries ; Lord Chamberlain's Com-
pany ; King's players ; Shakespeare,
lb. ; burnt down and rebuilt, 46, 47.

Globe Theatre, Wych Street, iii. 35.

" Globe, the Great," Leicester Square,
iii. 170.

Gloucester, Eleanor, Duchess of, i. 25,
32, 239 ; iii. 433 ; v. 429.

Gloucester House ; Duke of Glou-
cester ; Earl of Elgin, iv. 286.

Gloucester, Humphrey, Duke of, vi.
165, 206.

Gloucester Place, Portman Square, iv.
412.

Gloucester Square, v. 186.

Glover, Richard, author of " Leoni-
das," ii. 40; iv. 25, 297.

Glue-makers, vi. 123.

" Goat and Compasses," v. 9.

"Goat in Boots" Tavern, v. S8.

Goat's Yard, Horselydown ; Benjamin
Keach's meeting-house, vi. 1 10.

Gobelin tapestiy, manufactured at Ful-
ham, vi. 521.

Godfrey, Michael, founder of the Bank
of England, i. 460.

Godfrey, Sir Edmundbury, iii. 92, 134,
153. 456 ; V. 287, 289, 290.

Godbman Street, i. 303.

Godolphin School, vi. 534.

" God s Gift College." (See Dulwich.)

Godwin, Mary Woolstonecraft, ii. 490 ;
iii- 539 ; V. 533 ; vi. 494.

Godwin, William, ii. 490; iii. 539.

Gog and Magog in Guildhall, i. 384.
386.

598

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

Gold, Light, called in, i. 467.

Gold refiner)', Wood Street, i. 369.

"Golden Cross" Inn, Charing Cross,
iii. 129.

" Golden Head," Leicester Square, iii.
167.

Golden Square, iv. 235, 236 ; its name ;
Dog's Fields ; Windmill Fields ;
Pest-house, ib.; residents; statue of
George IL ; Childs, Lord Byron's
servant, 237, 249.

Golder's Hill, Hampstead, v. 448.

Golding Lane, Whitecross Street ; nur-
sery for actors, ii. 224.

Goldsmid, Abraham, i. 4S5.

Goldsmith, Oliver, i. 29, 61, 62, 119,
120, 169, 171, 275, 41S, 561 ; ii. 8,
271, 471, 476, 569 ; iii. 65, 69, 137,
275. 27S, 429; iv. 53. 154. 232;
V. 80, 166, 248, 459 ; vi. 40, 289,

455-
Goldsmiths, i. 453 ; their business as
bankers ; loans to Government, ib. ;
opposition to the Bank of England,

455, 456.

Goldsmiths' Company, i. 353 ; quarrels
with tailors, 354; religious observ-
ances ; livery, night-watch, and
army, 356 ; trial of the pix ;
assay office ; hall marks, 357 ; assay
master ; St. Dunstan's feast, 358 ;
pageants ; costume ; apprentices
punished, 359 ; "searches " for bad
work, 360; New Hall, 361.

Goldsmiths' Company's Almshouses, v.
507.

Goldsmiths' Row, Cheapside ; other
trades there forbidden, i. 308, 339,
356.

Goldsmiths' Row, Hackney; "Hack-
ney Buns," V. 507.

Gomm, Sir, William, vi. 137.

Gondoraar, Spanish Ambassador, ii.

519.
Goodge Street, iv. 472.
Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester, iii.

489.
Goodman's Fields, ii. 249.
Goodman's Fields Theatre ; first ap-
pearance of Garrick, ii. 146.
Goodwin, Dr. Thomas ; Fetter Lane

Chapel, i. 100.
Goodwin, John, Puritan writer, ii. 244.
"Goose and Gridiron," St. Paul's

Churchyard, i. 272.
"Gooseberry Fair," Spa Fields, ii.

302 ; i. 477.
"Goose-tree's" Club, iv. 136.
Gordon, Duchess of, iv. 129.
Gordon, Lord George ; the Gordon

Riots, i. 56, 165, 207, 363, 420 ;

ii. 117, 275, 410, 446, 574; iii.

47, 212; iv. S3, 65, 124, 183,

239, 442, 493, 539, 554 ; V. 308,

365, 443 ; VI. 32, 65, 345, 375,

442.
Gordon Square ; Catholic and Apostolic

Church, iv. 572 ; University Hall,

573.
Gore House, Kensington, v. llS.
Goring House, iv. 260.
Gosling's Bank ; original silver sign, i.

46.
Gospel Oaks ; Gospel Oak Fields and

Fair, Kentish Town, v. 316.
Gough, John, F.S.A., i. 20.
Gough .Square, i. 118; Dr. Johnson

and liis Dictionary, il/.
Goulburn, Rev. I)r.,iv. 409.

Governesses' Benevolent Institution, iv.

450.
Gower, poet, iii. 308 ; vi. 21, 25, 26.
Gower Street and Upper Gower Street,

iv. 567 ; Bannister ; De Wint, ti. ;

University College, 568.
Gower Street Station, Metropolitan

Railway, v. 226.
Gracechurch Street, ii. 174 ; herb

market ; St. Benet's Church ;

Bankes's horse ; ' ' Spread Fagle, "

li.
Grafton, Duke of, and "Junius," iv.

306, 307, 30S.
Grafton, Richard, the Bible printed by,

i. 50.
Grafton Street, Bond Street ; distin-
guished residents ; Gr.afton Club ;

Junior O.xford and Cambridge Club,

iv. 29S.
Grafton Street East, iv. 570.
Graham, aeronaut, v. 310.
Grammont, Due de, F'rench Ambassa-
dor, iv. 199.
Granaries, ii. iSo, 182, 183, 18S.
Granby Street, v. 305.
Grand Junction Canal Company ; Pad-

dington Canal, v. 219.
Grand Junction Waterworks Company,

V. 179-
Grand Surrey Canal Dock, vi. 140.
Grand Theatre, Islington, ii. 2S9.
Grange Road, Bermondsey, vi. 122,

125.
"Grange, The," public-house, Carey

Street, iii. 26, 31.
Grange Walk, Bermondsey, vi. 120.
Grant, Albert, iii. 171, 185 ; v. 125.
Grant, James, i. 64, 214.
Grant, Sir Francis, P.R.A., iii. 148.
Granville, Earl, iv. 170.
Graphic Club, i". 570.
"Grasshopper" Bank, Pall JIall, iv.

137-
Grasshopper, Sir Thomas Gresham's

crest, i. 495, 502, 506, 524, 525.
Gravel-pit Meetinghouse, Hackney, v.

575-

Gravel Pits, Notting Hill, v. 178.

Gray, Stephen ; liis electrical dis-
coveries, ii. 400.

Gray's Inn, ii. 553 ; Lord Gray of
Wilton, 554 ; hail • tables given by
Queen Elizabeth ; chapel ; library
gardens, 555 ; regulations, 556
costume ; moots ; revels, 55S
plays ; Prince of Purpoole's revel,
559 ; rebellious students ; eminent
members, 560-569 ; yearly rental,

569-

Gray's Inn Lane, ii. 550 ; eminent
residents ; the " Blue Lion," 552.

Great Bath Street, Coldbath Fields ;
Swedenborg, il. 304.

Great Bell Yard, residence of Bloom-
field, ii. 244.

Great Carter Lane, i. 302; "Bell"
inn, (A

Great College Street, Camden Town,
V. 322.

Great College .Street, Westminster, iv. 2.

Great Coram Street ; Russell Institu-
tion, iv. 574.

Great Cumberland Place, iv. 407.

(ireat Dover Street, Southwark, v"i. 523.

Great Eastern Railway ; Depot and
works at Stratford, v. 573.

Great E.xhibition of 1851, v. 28;
French Exhibitions ; Society of

Arts, ill. ; the Prince Consort, 29 ;
Royal Commission, 30 ; Paxton,
32 ; the budding, 33, 34 ; State
opening, 35 ; arrangements, 36 ;
" Koh-i-noor," 38 ; Crystal Palace,
Sydenham ; Albert Memorial, ti.

Great Fire of London, 1666, i. 161,
191, 200, 226, 229, 294, 303, 348,
349, 350, 351, 566, 572; ii. 197;
V. 135, 388; vi. II, 55, 342.

Great George Street, Westminster, iv.
31 ; Wilkes; lying in state of Lord
Byron, ii. ; Institution of Civil
Engineers, 32 ; National Portrait
Gallery, ii.

Great James Street, Bedford Row,
iv. 551.

Great Marlborough Street, iv. 241.

Graat Marylebone Street ; Leopold I.,
iv. 437-

Great Northern Railway Station,
King's Cross, li. 278.

Great Ormond Street, iv. 556 ; Powis
House ; the Great Seal stolen,
557 ; Working Men's College, 560 ;
Hospital for Sick Children, 561,
562.

Great Peter Street, Westminster, iv.
38.

Great Portland Street, iv. 456 ; its
charitable institutions ; St. Paul's
Church ; Jewish Synagogue, 457,
458.

Gieat Queen Street, iii. 2og — 212 ;
fashionable and eminent residents,
id. ; Paulet House, 210; Cherbury
House ; Conway House, ti. ; the
Gordon Riots, 212 ; Home for
Destitute Boys, ib. ; Freemasons'
Hall and Tavern, 213 ; Wesleyan
Chapel, ib. ; Wyman's printing-
office, 214, 215.

Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, iv.
483 ; eminent residents, 489.

Great Seal, iv. 6, 556.

Great Smith Stieet, Westminster, iv.
36 ; Free Library ; Baths and
Washhouscs, ib.

Great Stanhope Street, Park Lane,
iv. 368; residents: Stanhope Gate,
ib.

Great Suffolk Street, Southwark, vi.
63; "Dirty Lane;" "Moon-
rakers' " public-house, ib.

Great Titchfield Street; eminent resi-
dents, iv. 461.

Great Tower Street, ii. 98 ; Earl of
Rochester; Peter the Great; "Czar
of Muscovy " Tavern, 99.

Great Warner Street, Clerkenwell, ii.

335-
Gre.it Western Railway, v. 223 ; I. K.

Brunei ; Box Tunnel ; Paddington

Terminus and Hotel, ib.
Great Windmill Street, iv. 236.
"Grecian Coffee House," Strand, iii.

65-
Creci.in Theatre, City Road, ii. 227.
Greek mercluants, ii. 182.
Greek residents in London ; statistics,

vi. 570.
Greek Street, "Grig Street," iii. 177.
Green, Charles, aeronaut, vi. 464.
Green, " Paddy " ; Evans's Hotel, iii.

254.
Green.icre, murderer, ii. 455 ; vi. 272.
Cireenberry Ilill ; Barrow Hill, v. 287.
Green-coat School, Ciniberwell, vi. 278.
Green-coat School, Westminster, iv. 10.

GENERAL INDEX.

599

"Green Dragon," in Fleet Street, i.

Green Lettuce Lane, ii. 28.

" Green Man and Still," Oxford Street,

iv. 245.
"Green Man" Tavern, Dulwich, vi.

293-

Green Park, iv. 177.

Green Ribbon Club, i. 45.

Green Street, Grosvenor Square, iv.
374-

Green Street, Leicester Square, iii. 161.

Green Walk, Southwark, vi. 41.

Green Yard, Cripplegate, ii. 239.

Greenwich, vi. 164 ; etymology ; Da-
nish invasions, iii. ; murder of Arch-
bishop Alphege, 165 ; East and
West Coombe ; Danish encamp-
ments ; the manor ; Humphrey,
Duke of Gloucester ; Pleazaunce, or
Placentia ; deer, i6. : Grey Friars'
convent, 166 ; birthplace of Henry
VHL ; Catherine of Arragon ;
jousts ; festivities ; masquerade, ib. ;
tilt-yard, 168 ; banqueting-room ;
Anne Boleyn ; birth of Queen
Elizabeth, ib. ; Anne of Cleves,
170; Will Somers, 171; death of
Edward VL ; Mary and Elizabeth,
170 — 173; palace and park or-
dered to be sold, 174 ; new build-
ings, 176; palace dedicated to
disabled seamen, tb.; Parliamentary
representation, 191 ; assizes ; popu-
lation and progress ; church of St.
Alphege, ib. ; chapel for Huguenot
refugees, 193 ; Queen Elizabeth's
college; Jubilee almshouses, 194;
baths and washhouses, 195 ; public
buildings, ib. ; Royal Thames Yacht
Club, 196 ; Admiralty barge, 197 ;
royal visits ; royal state barge ;
" Ship ; " " Crown and Anchor ; "
"Trafalgar," ib. ; ministerial fish
dinner; whitebait, 197 — 200; dinner
to Dickens, 201 ; " touting ; " tea
and shrimps ; fairs, ib., 203, 205 ;
hill ; park, and prospect, 2oi5,
207; deer, 208, 210; ranger's
lodge, 212 ; Chesterfield House ;
Montagu House ; barrows, ib.

Greenwich Hospital, iii. 367 ; vi. 177 ;
painted hall, vi. 177 ; chapel, 179 ;
lying in state and funeral of Nelson,
182 ; management and funds, 183 ;
disestablished, 184 ; Royal Naval
College, 186 ; Naval Museum, ib. ;
Nelson and Franklin relics, 187 ;
Drake's astrolabe ; Seamen's Hos-
pital Society's infirmary, ib. ; Dread-
nought, 1 88 ; Royal Naval School,
ib. ; officers of the establishment,
189.

Greenwich ; London and Greenwich
Railway, vi. 98.

Greenwich Observatory. {See Royal
Observ.;tory.

Gregory, Barnard, v. 502.

Grenades ; " Granados," vi. 207.

Grenadier Guards. {See Guards, Horse
and Foot.)

Grenville, Rt. Hon. Thos. ; his library,
iv. 513.

Gresham Club House, i. 524.

Gresham College and Lectures, i. 375 ;
ii. 159, 160.

Gresham Committee, i, 381.

Gresham, Sir Richard, Lord Mayor,
i- 376, 4°'^, 494 ; ii- H?-

Gresham, Sir Thomas, i. 494, 498,

524, 525; ii. 104, 243; ill 154,

213.
Gresham House, Bishopsgate, i. 525.
Grtsham Street; "Swan with Two

Necks," i. 374.
Greville, Colonel, iv. 473.
GreviUe Street, Hatton Garden, ii. 549.
Grey Coat School, Westminster, iv. 11.
Grey, Earl, iii. 388, 389.
Grey, Lady Jane, ii. 66.
"Greyhound" Tavern, Dulwich, vi.

296.
Griffin, Prince of Wales, ii. 64.
Griffiths, Captain, " Honour and Glory

Griffiths," ii. 242.
Grillon's Hotel, Grillon's Club, iv. 295.
Grimaldi, father of the clown, vi.

417.
Grimaldi, grandfather of the clown, vi.

369-

Grimaldi, Joseph, clown, ii. 279, 285 ;
iii. z:i ; vi. 405.

Grinning-matches, vi. 344, 389.

Grinning through horses' collars, v. 503.

Grocers' Alley, Poultry, i. 419.

Grocers' Company, i. 431 ; Pepperers,
history of the Company, ib, ; hall
and garden, 432; eminent "Gro-
cers," 433 ; charities, 434.

Grocers in London ; statistics, vi. 570.

Grose, Francis, Richmond Herald, i.
298.

Grosvenor and Scrope ; heraldic con-
troversy, i. 347.

Grosvenor Canal, v. 41.

Grosvenor family, v. 3.

Grosvenor Gate, Hyde Park, iv. 395.

Grosvenor Hotel, v. 41.

Grosvenor House, iv. 370 ; Duke of
Westminster ; Grosvenor Gallery,
ib. ; the family of Grosvenor, 371.

Grosvenor Place ; distinguished resi-
dents, V. 8.

Grosvenor Row, v. 9.

Grosvenor Square, iv. 338 ; architecture
of the houses ; Pope ; " Grosvenor
Buildings ;" Sir Richard Grosvenor,
ib.; statue of George L, 339.

Grote, George, "History of Greece,"
iv. 310.

"Grove House" tea-gardens, Camber-
well, vi. 281.

Grub Street. {See Milton Street.)

Guards' Club, iv. 143.

Guards, Horse and Foot, iv. 47 ; bil-
leted at inns ; Macaulay ; Life
Guards, Grenadiers, Blues, Dra-
goons, ib.

Guards' Hospital, Westminster, iv. 11.

" Guild of Literature and Art," iv. 279.

Guildford, Lord Keeper, i. 38, 83.

Guildford Street, iv. 563.

Guildhall, i. 383 ; old hall, Alderman-
bury ; erection of the present hall,
ib.; the Great Fire ; " improve-
ments " by Dance, 384 ; restoration
by Horace Jones, 385 ; crypt ;
figures of Gog and Magog, 386 ;
monuments, 387, 388 ; law courts,
and Fine Art Gallery, 389 ; Com-
mon Council Chamber, 390 ; Guild-
hall Chapel ; Library and Museum,
392 ; historical notes, 393, 394,

395
Guildhall School of Music, iii. 324.
Guineas first coined, ii. 104.
Guizot, M., iv. 308.
" Gull's Horn Book," i. 276.

Gulliver, Lemuel, vi. 138.

Gully, John, M.P. and ex -pugilist,
iii. 26.

"Gun" Tavern, Pimlico, v. 45.

Gundulf, Bishop of Rochester, ii. 60 ;
iii. 213.

Gunning, The Misses, iv. 348.

Gunpowder Alley, Shoe Lane, i. 126,
128; Lovelace; Lilly, the astrologer,
128.

Gunpowder explosions : Great Tower
Street, ii. 108 ; Regent's Canal, v.
268.

Gunpowder Plot, i. 245 ; iii. 10, 548,
563, 566 ; vi. 28.

Gurney, Baron, i. 17S.

Gurney, Sir Goldsworthy, v. 299, 300.

Gurwood, Col., his monument, ii. 93.

Guthrie, historian, iv. 426.

Guthrie, Miss, "The Old Houses of
Putney," vi. 489.

Gutter Lane, Cheapside, i. 374.

Guy's Hospital, vi. 93 ; biographical no-
tice of Thomas Guy, i. 474 ; ii. 172 ;
the building, vi. 94 ; statue of the
founder ; his tomb ; chapel ; medical
staff and school ; theatre, 95 ; mu-
seum and benefactions, 96, no.

Gwydyr House, Whiiehall, iii. 377.

Gwyn, architect, i. 255.

Gwynne, Nell, ii. 238, 239, 297 ; iii. 27,
38, 45. '53. 209, 219, 358 ; iv. 125,
144, 176 ; V. 70, 395 ; VI. 287, 289,

522. 525-
Gye, Frederick ; Royal Italian Opera

House, iii. 236 ; Horal Hall, 251.
Gyze, George, Steel Yard merchant,

ii. ii-

H.

"Ha! ha!" in Kensington Gardens,
V. 154.

Haberdashers' Company, Hall and
School, i. 371 ; v. 525.

Hacket, Bishop, rector of St. Andrew's,
Holbom, ii. 512.

Hackett, Miss ; restoration of Crosby
Hall, ii. 157.

Hackman, murderer of Miss Ray, iii.
260 ; V. 193.

Hackluyt, iii. 476.

Hackney, v. 5 10; etymology; manor,
the property of the Knights Tem-
plars, ib. ; Temple Mills, 512 ;
hamlets in the parish ; described
by .Strype; houses of the gentry
and nobility, ib. ; growth of the
population, 513 ; Parliamentary
representation ; Well Street ; Hack-
ney College ; Monger's Almshouses ;
House of Dr. Frampton ; St.
John's Priory ; Mare Street ; Hack-
ney a centre of Nonconformity ;
Roman Catholic Church, ib.; " Fly-
ing Horse "Tavern, 514; "Elizabeth
Fry's Refuge;" Dr. Spurstowe's
Almshouses ; Town Hall ; Great
Eastern Railway : Tower House ;
Barber's Bam ; Loddidge's Nur-
sery, ib. ; watercress beds, 515 ;
Gravel-pit Meeting-house ; Church
House, ib. : old parish church and
burial ground, 515 — 518 ; new
church of St. John, 518; "Black
and White House," 519 ; boarding
schools; Sutton Place ; "Mermaid"
Tavern; " Waid's Corner ; " Tern-

6oo

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

plar's House, ib.; Brooke House ;
distinguished residents, 520 ; City of
London Union, 521 ; asylunis, 522 ;
" Hackney " horses and coaches,

524-

" Hackney Buns, v. 507.

Hackney Church, v. 515 ; church taken
down ; the old tower left, 516 ;
Rowe Chapel, 517 ; bells and burial
ground ; new church, 519.

Hackney coaches, iii. Si, 333, 334.

Hackney coach-stands, iii. 243.

Hackney Common, v. 509.

" Hackney" horses and coaches ; ety-
mology of "hackney," v. 524.

Hackney JIarsh, v. 521.

Hackney Road, v. 50S.

Haggarty and HoUoway executed, ii.

453-
Haggerston, v. 506 ; " Hergotstane ;

St. Chad's Church, 507 ; Brunswick

Square ; St. Mary's Church ;

Church Association ; Shoreditch

Almshouses ; Goldsmiths' Row

(" Mutton Lane ") ; " Cat and

Mutton" Public-house, ib.
Haines, Joe, ii. 520.
Hair of Milton, Shelley, Keats, Johnson,

Swift, Lamb, vi. 54S.
Hale, Archdeacon ; antiquities of the

Charterhouse, ii. 3SS.
Hale House, Brompton, v. 100.
Hale, Sir Matthew ; Appeal Court

after the Grea' Fire, i. 93.
Hales, Robert, the "Norfolk Giant,"

iii. 39.
" Half-and-half;" beer, iv. 485.
Half-moon Street and Half-mocn

Alley, Bishopsgate, ii. 153, 15S.
Half-moon Street, Piccadilly, iv. 291.
"Half-Moon" Tavern, Dulwich, vi.

296.
" Half-Moon " Tavein, Piccadilly, iv.

291.
Half Nichols Street, Bethnal Green, ii.

148.
Halford, Sir Henry, iv. 351.
Halfpenny Alley, vi. 114.
Halfpenny Hatch, Bermondsey, vi. 133,

136-
Halfpenny Hatch, Lambeth, vi. 392.
Halfpenny Hatch, Tottenham Court

Road, iv. 470.
"Halfway House," Kensington, v. 122.
"Halfway House," Rotherhithe,vi.I35.
" Halfway House" to Tyburn, iii. 200.
Halifax, Earl of, iii. 83.
Halkin Street, v. II.
Hall, Bishop, ii. 385, 566.
Hall, Jacob, rope-dancer, i. 405 ; vi.

59-
Hall of Commerce, Threadneedle

Street, i. 536.

Hall, Rev. Newman, ii. 274 ; vi. 362.

Hall, S. C. and Mrs., vi. 527.

Halley, astronomer, ii. 268 ; v. 506 ;
vi. 215, 244.

Hamilton, Duchess of (Elizabeth Gun-
ning), iv. 348, 350.

Hamilton, Duke of; duel, iv. 319.

Hamilton, Emma, Lady, iii. 455 ; iv.
254, 292, 321, 329, 430, 446 ; V.
Ill, 158.

Hamilton, Lady Archibald, iv. 88.

Hamilton, Ja/nes, ranger of Hyde
Park, iv. 378.

Hamilton, W. G., M.P., iv. 373.

Hamilton Place, iv. 291 ; Col. Hamil-
ton ; Duke of Wellington, ib.

Hamilton Terrace, St. John's Wood ;

St. Mark's Church, v. 251.
Hamlet, silversmith and jeweller, iii.

173 ; iv. 232, 2S0, 461.
Hammersmith, vi. 529 ; ecclesiastical
division from Fulham, ib. ; boundary
ditch, 530 ; King Street ; railway
stations; " Bell and Anchor " and
"Red Cow" Inns; Nazareth
House ; the " Little Sisters of the
Poor," ib.; Benedictine Convent,
531-2 ; King Street East, 533 ; West
London Hospital ; Broadway ; Brook
Green ; nursery gardens ; Millet's
Garden ; Lee's nursery, ib. ; Dart-
mouth Road, 534 ; Ravenscourt
Park, 336 ; Pallenswick manor and
the manor-house ; Starch Green ;
old pump ; Webb's Lane ; Queen
Street ; St. Paul's Parish Church ;
church injured by the Puritans, ib. ;
restored, 537 ; altar-piece ; church-
yard ; trees and monuments ; Sir
Nicholas Crispe ; his heart en-
shrined in the church, ib. ; Edward
Latymer, 538 ; Queen Street, 539 ;
Butterwick Manor-house ; Earl of
Mulgrave, ib. ; Convent of the Good
Shepherd ; Asylum for Penitent
Women, 540 ; Sussex House ; Duke
of Sussex, 542 ; private lunatic
asylum ; Mrs. Fry, 543 ; Branden-
burgh House, 544 ; Hammersmith
Suspension Bridge; Upper and
Lower Malls; High Bridge; the
"Doves' Coffee-house," !/'. ; the
residents; the Terrace, 545; St.
Peter's Church ; the Hammersmith
Ghost, 548.
Hampstead, v. 438 ; etymology, tb.;
manor granted to Abbot of West-
minster by Ethelred, 440 ; chapelry
to Hendon ; made a separate bene-
fice ; descent of the manor ; Sir
S. Maryon-Wilson, Bart. ; Hot Gos-
pellers ; hollow elm, ib. ; Caen
Wood Towers, 441 ; Dufferin Lodge ;
Caen (or Ken-Wood), seat of the
Earl of Mansfield, 441 — 443 !
Hampstead Ponds, 443 ; source of
the Fleet River, 444 ; disputes on
"water privileges ;" Bishop's Wood j
Mutton Wood, ib.; "Spaniards'"
Tavern ; view from the grounds,
445 ; New Georgia, 446 ; Heath
House, 448 ; gibbet ; highwaymen ;
Nortli End ; Golder's Hill, ib. ;
" Bell and Bush," 449 ; the Heath ;
its landscape, ib. ; Sir Thomas M.
Wilson's claims, 452 ; Metropolitan
Commons' .\ct ; manorial rights
purchased by Board of Works,.;ii.;
donkeys and amusements, 453 ;
"The Hill;" "stage-coaches,"
454; "Jack Straw's Castle," 455 ;
race-course ; suicide of John Sadleir,
M.P., ib. ; deodands, 456; Vale of
Health ; South Vdla, 457 ; poets
and painters, 458 ; Judge's Walk,
459 ; " Clarissa Harlowe," 460,
461 ; the town ; High Street, 462 ;
chapels,' 464; " Hollybush " Inn,
465 ; "The Clock House," 466 ;
Fire Brigade Station, 467 ; Old
Hampstead ; present " Flask "
Tavern ; Flask Walk ; source of
the Fleet River ; " Wells Tavern ;"
Well Walk, ib. ; chalybeate springs
and Spa, 46S ; concerts at the

" Wells," 470 ; irregular marriages ;
Zion Chapel, ib. ; "Mother Huff,"
or " Mother Damnable," 471 ;
raffling-shops ; Dr. Soame, ib. ;
geological formation, 472 ; Church
Row and distinguished residents,
473 ; Reformatory School for Girls,
477 ; old parish church, 478 ; old
and new churchyards, 482 ; Vane
House ; Soldiers' Daughters' Home,
484; "Red Lion" Inn, 4S5 ; the
Chicken House ; St. Elizabeth's
Home ; Presbyterian Chapel, ib. ;
Rosslyn House and Earl of Ross-
lyn, 488 ; Belsize Lane, 490 ;
Downshire Hill ; St. John's Chapel ;
Hampstead Green ; Bartram's Park ;
Sir Rowland Hill ; Keiimore House ;
St. Stephen's Church, ib. ; the
"New Spa;" Fever Hospital;
Town Hall ; " Load of Hay," 491 :
Sir R. Steele's Cottage, ib. ;
Belsize Park ; manor of Belsize,
494 ; residence of Lord Wotton,

495 ; races, music, and hunting,

496 ; murder of Delarue by Hocker,
497 ; St. Peter's Church, 499 ; Shep-
herd's Well, Shepherd's Fields,
and Conduit Fields, 500 ; Finchley
Road ; " North Star " Tavern ;
West End Lane ; Frognal, 501 ;
Frognal Priory, 502 ; West End and
West End Fair, 503 ; Child's Hill ;
death-rate ; population ; prophecies
of earthquakes, 504.

Hampstead Church; incumbents, v.

479- „ ,
Hampstead Ponds, v. 443.

Hampstead Road, v. 303-308 ; Tol-
mer's Square; Sol's Arms; Sol'sRow;
Stanhope Street, Granby Street^;
Momington Crescent ; " Old King's
Head ; " Drummond Street ; St.
James's Church ; Rev. Hem7 Steb-
bing ; St. Pancras Female Charity
School ; AmpthiU Square, ib. ;
Harrington Square, 309.

Hand Alley, Bishopsgate, a burial-place
during the Plague, ii. 165.

" Hand and Pen," Fleet Intch, and
other "marrying houses," ii. 411.

Hand Court, Holboni, iv. 552.

Handel Festivals: Westmmster Ab-
bey; St. Margaret's Church ; Ban-
queting House ; Whitehall; Crystal
, Palace, iii. 407. 4o8.

Handel, George Frederick, 1. 231, 269 ;
ii. 334 ; iii. 229, 310, 428 ; '"■ 104.
179, 211, 245, 263, 343. 435; ^■•
363, 364 ; vi. 449-

"Hand-in-Hand" Tavern, iv. 552.

" Hand " Inn, Southwark, vi. 74.

Hand, Mrs. ; Chelsea Bun House v.

69- , . •

Hanger, George, Lord Colerame, iv.
136; v. 294, 35' ; vi. 68.

Hanging in Chains. (i>cc Gibbets.)

" Hangman's Gains," in the Tower
precincts, ii. 99.

Hanover Chapel, Peckham, vi. 290.

Hanover Court, Long Acre ; Taylor,
the " water-poet," iii. 271.

Hanover, King of, iv. 70, 113.

Hanover Square, iv. 314; statue o
Pitl, 315; Harewood House; Lail
of llai-ewood ; " Beau " Lascelles ;
other eminent residents, ib. ; Zoo-
logical Society, 3'6; Royal Agricul-
tural Society; College of Chemistry;

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TJi;! ,--1 _ A

GENERAL INDEX.

6ot

Oriental Club ; Aits Club ; Hanover
Clulj ; Hanover Square Rooms,
ib.; the "Mill Field," 317; Sir
John Gallini ; Concerts of Ancient
Music ; George III. ; Philharmonic
Concerts ; Brummell and George
IV., ib. ; Miss Linwood, 318 ;
Carnarvon House, 320.

Hans Place, Chelsea, v. 99.

Hanway, Jonas, iv. 470, 54S ; vi. 348.

Hanway Street ; " Hanover Yard," iv.
470 ; curiosity shops ; old china ;
centenarians, ib.

" H.appy Man's Row," Pentonville, ii.
286.

Harborough, Earl of, attacked in Pic-
cadilly, iv. 290.

Ilardham, John, tobacconist, i. 69.

Hardicanute, vi. 332, 3S3, 3S6.

Hardwick, Thomas, Philip, and P. C,
architects, iv. 430 ; vi. 443, 473.

Hardwicke, Lord Chancellor, ii. 54S.

Hardy, Sir Thomas Duffus, i. loi.

Hardy, Thomas ; shop in Fleet Street,

i. 53-

" Hare and Hounds " public-house,
St. Giles's, iv. 48S._

Hare Court Buildings, i. 172.

Hare Place, Fleet Street, i. 137.

Hare, Sir Nicholas; Hare Court,
Temple, i. 167.

Harewood House, iv. 315.

Harewood Square, v. 260.

"Haringey;" Honisey. (ArHornsey.)

Ilarley, Earl of Oxford ; Harleian
MSS., iv. 449, 490.

Harley Fields, iv. 440, 442.

Harley, Lady Ivlargaret ; Prior's
"Lovely Peggy," iv. 442.

Harley, Rt. Hon. Thomas, Lord Mayor,
i. 40S.

Harley Street, iv. 449 ; Harley, Earl
of Oxford ; Harleian MSS. ; Lord
and Lady Walsingham ; other resi-
dents, ib. : Queen's College for
Ladies ; Governesses' Benevolent
Institution, 450.

Hamier, Alderman, i. 59, 213.

Harmer's Almshouses, v. 525.

Harmonic Institution, iv. 244.

Harold ; his coronation, iii. 401.

Harp Alley, Shoe Lane, i. 129 ; Van-
dertout's shop-signs ; exhibition by
Hogarth, ib.

" Harp" T.avern, Russell Street ; " City
of Lushington " .Society, iii. 279.

Harpur, Sir William, Lord Mayor, iv.

323, 551.
Harpur Street, iv. 551.
Harrington, James, ii. 75 ; iv. 48 ;

Rota Club, iii. 53S.
Harrington Square, v. 309.
" Harris, Cat," iv. 223.
Harris, Henry, manager of Covent

Garden Theatre, iii. 230, 233.
Harris, the "Flying Highwayman;"

his execution, ii. 448.
Harrison, \V. H. ; Operas at Covent

Garden Theatre ; iii. 237.
Harrowby, Earl of; Cato Street con-
spiracy, iv. 340, 411.
Hart Street, Bloonisbury ; St. George's

Church, iv. 544.
Hart Street, Covent Garden, iii. 271 ;

the " White Hart ; " Charles Mack-

lin, ib.
Hart, tragedian, i. 197.
Hartley, David ; Fire-proof House and

Column, Putney, vi. 497,

291— N.F.

Hartopp, Lady, v. 534, 541.
Hartshorn Lane, CharingCross, iii. 159.
Harvey, Dr., i. 285, 303; ii. 360; iii.

143-
Hastings, Warren, iii. 476, 554.
Hatchara ; the Church ; ritualistic prac-
tices and disturbances, vi. 247, 248.
Hatchett's Hotel, iv. 261.
Hatfield, John ; St. Paul's clock

striking thirteen, iii. 537.
Hatherley, Lord, i. 413.
Hat-making, vi. 123.
Hat-manufacture, Bermondsey, vi. 75.
Hatton Garden ; Wycherley and ihe

Countess of Drogheda, ii. 543.
H.atton, Sir Christopher, i. 159; ii.

51S, 519; iii. 446; vi. 239.
Hatton, the " strange " Lady, wife of Sir

Edward Coke, ii. 519.
Havelock, General Sir Henry, ii. 404 ;

iii. 142.
Haverstock Hill, " Adelaide " Tavern,

v. 296; Sir R. Steele, 491.
Hawes, Dr. Willkim, founder of the

Humane Society, ii. 263.
" H.awkabites ;" members of dissolute

clubs, iv. 57, 166.
Hawking in London, ii. 251 ; iv. 48 ;

V. 3-

Hawkins, Sir John, ii. 322 ; iv. 34 ; v.
426.

Hawksmoor, architect, i. 527 ; iv. 544.

Hawk stone Hall, vi. 362.

Haydn, vi. 375.

Haydon, B. R., iv. 173, 242, 302 ; v.
458, 461 ; vi. 69, 209.

Hayes, Catherine, murderess, iv. 245 ;
V. 191.

Hayes Mews; "Running Footman"
Tavern, iv. 334.

Hay Hill, iv. 275, 2S9, 333.

Hayman, pictures at Vau.xhall Gardens,
vi. 452, 465.

Haymarket at Broadway, Westminster,
iv. 20.

Haymarket, The, iii. 14S ; iv. 207 ;
oxen, sheep ; the old market for hay
and straw, 2l6; removal to Cum-
berland Market, 217; riots; Addi-
son, 218; " Tiddy Doll," the pie-
man, 219 ; Wolcott and Madame
Mara; jlichael Kelly, ib.; Sir
John Coventry; Baretti; "Mrs. Mid-
night's Oratory;" "Cats' Opera,"
220; exhibitions, -221.

Haymarket Theatre, iv. 221 ; built by
John Potter, //'. ; French comedies ;
the " Little Theatre in the Hay-
market " pulled down and rebuilt ;
Henry Fielding ; Sir Robert Wal-
pole ; Theophilus Gibber, 2?.2 ;
Foote ; "Cat Harris," 223; riot;
' ' Romeo " Coates, 224 ; George
Colman (the Elder and Younger) ;
fatal accident ; present theatre ; de-
signed by Nash, 225 ; " Paul Pry,"
Benjamin Webster ; J. B. Buck-
stone, 226.

Haynau, Marshal, vi. 39.

Haynes, John, restored after execution,
V. 196.

Hayter, Sir George, v. 260.

Hayward, William ; under-sexton ; the
plague-pit, ii. 245.

Haywood, W., C.E., ii. 530 ; street
subways ; Holborn Viaduct, v.
241, 242.

Hazard-playing at Court, iv. 153, 15S,
i6o.

Hazelville Road, Highgate, v. 395.
Hazlitt, William, i. 65, 83, 84, 85, 87,

88, 135 ; ii. 275 ; iii. 1S3, 194 ; iv.

22, 26p.
Head of Cromwell. (&■ Cromwell,

Oliver.)
Heads of traitors on Temple Bar, L

27 — 29, 37, 42 ; on London Bridge,

ii. 10, II, 13, 15, 16; vi. 10, II.
Heath, Archbishop; York House, iii.

107.
Heath House, Hanipstead, v. 448.
Heath Street Chapel, Hampstead, v.

464.
" Heaton's Folly;" Nunhead, vi. 291 ;

Camberwell, 292.
" Heaven" Tavern, Westminster Hall,

iii. 559.
" Heavy Hill " (Holborn Hill), ii. 529.
Heber, Richard, M.P., his library,

V. 48.
' ' Hectors," members of dissolute clubs,

iv. 57, 166.
Heddon .Street, iv. 311.
Hedge Lane.-, iv. 207, 231.
Heidigger, Master of the Revels, iv.

359-
"Hell" Coffee House, Westminster

H.all, iii. 558.
Hell-Fire Club, i. 410.
" Hells ; " gambling-houses and clubs.

{Sir Gambling.)
Hemans, Felicia, iii. 154.
Hemp's sponging-house, -Shire Lane, i.

74-

Henderson as Falslaff, ii. 263.

Hengler's circus, iv. 243.

Henley, Rev. John (" Orator"), iii. 41.

Henrietta-Maria, Queen of Charles I.,
i. 317; iii. 90; iv. 106, 108, 210;
V. 200 ; vi. 152, 173.

Henrietta Street, Cavendish Square,
iv. 443 ; Countess of Mornington ;
Theed, sculptor; Count Gleichen, ib.

Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, iii.
262.

Henry I., i. 237.

Henry III., i. 238 ; ii. 60; iii. 397, 431,
432, 436, 44r, 524 ; vi. 237.

Henry IV., vi. 21, 165, 225, 238.

Henry V., ii. II, 12, loi, 560; iii.
441 ; iv. 514; vi. 9, 225.

Henry VL, i. 240; iii. 495; vi. 10,
225, 238. _

Henry VII., i. 241, <,},(>•, ii. 520; iii.
96 ; v. 429.

Henry VII. 's Chapel, Westminster;
described ; its cost, iii. 399, 434 ;
communion-table ; tombs of the
Dukes of Buckingham, ; tomb of
Flenry VII. and his queen, 436;
other royal tombs, 437 —444 ; Oliver
Cromwell's burial, 437, 439, 440.

Henry VIH., i. 45, 190, 200, 242, 284,
3 14, 3S0 ; ii. 84, 1 1 7, 25 1 , 364, 520 ;
iii. 339, 375. 404. 49^; iv. 232, 376,
510 ; V. 20, 56, 139, 426, 531, 537 ;
vi. 88, 166, 226, 239, 352, 353, 356.

Henslowe, vi. 297.

Hentzner's account of the Tower
armouries, ii. 81.

Heralds' College, i. 294 ; at Cold
Harbour House, at Ronceval Priory,
at Derby House, St. Bennet's Hill ;
burnt in the Great Fire, ib.; rebuilt,
296 ; hall, library, and search-room ;
kings-at-arms, heralds, and pur-
suivants ; duties of heralds ; armorial
bearings ; office of Gaiter King, ib.\

6o2

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

heraldic courls, 297 ; visitations,
degradation of kniglits ; Earl Mar-
shal's court ; heralds' fees ; anec-
dotes of heralds, ih. ; Oldys, 298 ;
heralds' messengers, 300 ; knight-
riders ; queen's messengers ; library
of the college, ib.

Herbert Hospital, Shooter's Hill, vi.
236.

Herbert, J. R., R.A., v. 477.

Herbert of Cherbury, Lord, i. 347 ; iii.

332-

Herbert of Lea, Lord ; statue of, iv.
129.

" Hercules " Inn and Gardens, Lam-
beth ; Hercules Buildings, vi. 3S9.

" Hercules Pillars," Fleet Street, i. 50.

" Hercules Pillars " Tavern ; site of
Apsley House, iv. 287.

Her Majesty's Theatre, iv. 209, 212 ;
introduction of Italian opera, 209 ;
Sir John Vanbnigh, 210 ; Congreve ;
Valentin! ; masquerades, ib. : Fari-
nelli,2ii ; burnt down in 1789, ib. ;
Novosielski, architect ; Braham ;
Catalini, 212; lady patronesses,
213; costume; reconstructed in
1818; Nash and Repton ; Veluti ;
Pasta ; Sontag ; Grisi ; Rubini ;
Tamburini ; Lablache ; Mario ;
"Omnibus" row; Laporte, tb. ;
Lumley, 214; Jenny Lind ; Sims
Reeves ; Catharine Hayes ; Titiens,
ib. ; Piccolomini, 215, 21S; E. T.
Smith ; Mapleson ; Christine Nils-
son ; burnt down, 1S67 ; rebuilt ;
Moody and Sankey's religious ser-
vices, ib.

Hermes Hill ; Dr. de Valangin ; Wil-
liam Huntington, " Sinner Saved,"
ii. 284.

Hermitage and Hermits, Highgate, v.
419.

Hermitage, The, Highgate;GeorgeIV.;
Sir Wallis Porter, v. 412.

Hermit's Hill, Westminster, iv. 21.

Heme Hill, Camberwell, vi. 269.

Heron family, v. 530.

Herons, vi. 269.

Herrick, Robert, ii. 191, 542.

Hertford House, Piccadilly, iv. 2S5.

Hertford, Marquis and Marchioness,
iv. 331,424; V. 267.

Hertford Street, Mayfair ; " Dog and
Duck" public-house, iv. 352.

" Hertner's Eupyrion," i. 123.

Hervey, Lady, "the fair Lepel," iv.
170.

Hervey, Lonl, iv. 178.

Hewet, Sir William, Lord Mayor ; his
child's life saved by his apprentice,
i. 9, 401.

" Heydock's Ordinary," iii. 64.

Hey wood, John, dramatist, v. 56.

Hey wood, Thomas; "Fortune by
Land and Sea ; " execution of pi-
rates, ii. 135.

Hickes, Dr., author of the " The-
saurus," ii. no, 112.

Hicks, Anne; apple-stall, Hyde Park,
iv. 404.

Hicks, Sir Baptist; Hicks's Ilall, i.
352, 382; li. 321, 322; V. 130,
440 ; the hall pulled down, ii. 322.

Hickman's Folly, Dockhcad, vi. 116.

Highbury, ii. 273, 274 ; Knights Hos-
pitallers; Wat Tyler; "Jack Straw's
Castle ; " conduit-heads ; eminent
residents, 273; Highbury Barn

Tavern ib.: charity dinners ; High-
bury Society ; Cream Hall ; Inde-
pendent College, 274.

High Cross, Tottenham, v. 551.

Highg.-.te, V. 389 ; extent and popu-
lation ; height above the Thames ;
forest and game ; the High Gate ;
toll, ib. ; " Gate House " Tavern,
391 ; healthiness of the district, ib. ;
Highgate Hill, 392 ; Roman Ca-
tholic schools, 393 ; St. Joseph's
Retreat ; new monastery ; the
"Black Dog," ib.; the Infirmary,
394 ; .Sick Asylum ; " Old Crown "
Tavern ; Hornsey Lane ; Win-
chester Hall ; Highgate Arch-
way, //'. ; " Woodman " Inn, 395 ;
Ale.xandra Orphanage ; Aged Pil-
grims' Friend Asylum, Lauderdale
House ; Convalescent Home to St
Bartholomew's Hospital, 395, 396 ;
house of Andrew Marvell, 39S ;
Croni'tt'ell House, 400 ; Ireton, 401 ;
Convalescent Hospital for Sick
Children ; Arundel House ; Earls
of Arundel ; Cornwallis family ;
Queen Elizabeth; James I., ib. ;
Arabella Stuart, v. 402 ; death of
Lord Bacon, 404 ; Fairseat, resi-
dence of Sir Sydney Waterlow, 405 ;
Swaine's Lane and Traitor's Hill,
ib. ; Highgate Cemetery, 406 ; in-
terments, 407 ; old " Mansion
House," 410; Sir William Ashurst,
Lord Mayor ; Millfield Lane ; Ivy
Cottage, residence of Charles Ma-
thews the elder, ib. ; Holly Lodge ;
Lady Burdett-Coutts ; Holly Vil-
lage, 411 ; Highgate Ponds, 412;
"Fox and Crown" Inn; (Jiieen
Victoria in danger ; William and
Mary Howitt ; the Hermitage ;
Nelson's tree, ib. ; taverns, 413;
"swearing on the horns," 413 — 418 ;
old Chapel and Free School, 418 ;
Hermitage, 419 ; new School and
Chapei, 422 ; Southwood Lane
Almshouses ; Baptist Chapel ; Park
House ; London Diocesan Peni-
tentiary ; .St. Michael's Church ;
monument to Coleridge, ib. : dis-
tinguished residents in Highgate,
423, 424 ; Highgate Green, or
Grove, 425 ; Church House, 426 ;
Literary Institute ; Forest of Middle-
sex, ;'/'. ; Highgate Wood, 428.

Highg.ate Cemetery, v. 406 ; London
(Jcmctery Company ; S. Geary,
architect ; Ramsey, landscape-gar-
dener ; site and grounds ; chapel ;
Egyptian avenue, ib. ; interments
of distinguished individuals, 407.

Highgate Free School and Chapel, v.
41S ; Chapel in the 14th century,
419 ; Bishop Braybrooke ; hermits
and hermitage ; chajiel granted to .Sir
Roger Cholmeley'sgranmiar school ;
Bishops (jrindal and Sandys ; the
old school, ;/'.; repairs .and enlarge-
ments, 420 ; monuments ; minis-
ters, ib. ; tomb of Coleridge, 421 ;
new school-house and chapel, 422.

Highgate Ponds, v. 443.

High Ciale, Westininstcr, iv. 26.

Highlander, The, a tobacconist's sign,
>v. 233.

Highwaymen, ii. 257, 275, 448, 550;
iv. 16, 20, 244, 249, 290, 207, 333,
39S, 408, 435, 440, 455, 477, 480,

550; V. 2, 17, 21, 46, 86, 135, 189,
195, 228, 320, 381, 448, 524; vi.

296, 5IS, 533.

Hill, Emery ; Almshouses and School,
Westminster, iv. 10.

Hill, Rev. Rowland, vi. 71 ; Surrey
Chapel, 374-380.

Hill, .Sir John ; Bayswater ; essences,
balms, and tinctures, v. 185.

Hill, Sir Rowland ; Penny Postage, ii.
212; v. 490.

Hill Street, ISerkeley Square, iv. 334 ;
Lord Lyttelton ; other distinguished
residents ; Mrs. Montagu ; the
" Blue Stocking Club," ib.

Hill Street, Peckham, vi. 2S6.

Hill, Thomas; biographical sketch, vi.
305 ; sale of his library, 307.

Hilton's picture at St. Michael's Pater-
noster Royal, ii. 27.

Hind, J. R. ; observatory, Regent's
Park, V. 268.

Hinde Street, iv. 424.

Hingston, John, organist to Charles I.,
iii. 370.

Hippodrome, Netting Hill, v. 181.

Hoadley, Bishop, i. 71.

Hoare's Bank, i. 50 ; v. 454.

Hobart Place ; " Feathers' " Inn, v. S.

Hobbes of JLalmesbury, i. 97.

Hobnails and horse-shoes. Counting, iii.
561.

Hocker, Delaiue murdered by, v. 497,

"Hocking;" Hock Day, vi. 390.

Hockley-in-the-Hole, ii. 306 ; bear-
garden, 30S ; bull baiting ; dog-
fighting ; fireworks ; sword fights ;
back-swordsmen, ib. ; cock-fighting,

309, 417-
Hogarth Club, iv. 473.
Hogarth, William, i. 79, 129, 130, 192 ;

ii. 16, 136, 291, 359, 362, 407 ; iii.

39, 41, 49. 53, ti4, i47, J59, >67.
172, 196, 227, 240, 250, 273, 279,
375 ; i^'- 44, 83, 263, 353, 371, 430;
V. 200, 207, 359 ; vi. 58, 452, 465,

554, 556, 557-

"Hog in the Pound," or "Gentleman
in Trouble," Oxford Street, iv. 245.

Hog Lane, iii. 2 1 8.

Hog's Back, Noi'thern, Hornsey, v.
432.

Holbein and his works, ii. 32, 33, 46,
190, 23i, 234 ; iii. 362 ; V. 57, 142.

Holbein's Gateway, Whitehall, iii. 341.

Holborn, ii. 526; Ilolborn and High
llolborn ; paved in 1417, ib.; Kid-
der, the pastrycook, S31 ; "Old-
bourne Bridge " over the Fleet, 527 ;
Holborn Bars; City tolls; Middle
Row ; processions to the gallov\-s ;
Tom Clinch, 527; "Heavy Hill,"
529 ; whippings, 530 ; Titus Gates ;
Dangcrfield ; statue of the Prince
Consort; "Rose" Inn, ib.; Squire's
Coffee House, 536 ; George Alex-
ander Stevens, 538 ; Gerard's
physic-garden, 539; the ".'•'lying
Pieman ; " Ragg, the bellman, 541.

Holborn Amphitheatre, iv. 549.

Holborn Bridge, ii. 418, 527.

Holborn Theatre, iv. 552.

Holborn Town-hall, ii. 569.

Holborn Valley Improvements, ii. 500 ;
'Viaduct ; cost and construction, ib. •
sewers, gas, and water-pipes ; tele-
graph, 501 ; v. 239 ; subway ; bridge
over Farringdon Street : statues, ib. ;
opening ceremony, ii. 502.

GENERAL INDEX.

603

Holcrofts and Holcrofts Priory, Fulham

Road, vi. 515.
" Holebourne, The," ii. 417.
" Hole-in-the-Wall" Tavern, Chancery

Lane, i. 83.
Holfoid House, Regent's Park ; Baptist

Training College, v. 268.
Holford, R. S. ; Dorchester House ;

pictures and books, iv. 368.
Holinshed's narrative of " Evil May

Day," i. 310.
HoU, Henry, actor and novelist, v.

314-

HoU, William, engraver, v. 314.

Holland, Charles, actor ; tomb with
epitaph by Garrick, vi. 551.

Holland, Henry Rich, Earl of, iii. 538 ;
iv. 377 : V. 165.

Holland, Henry Richard, Lord, v. 171,
172 ; political and literary salon,
Holland House ; Lady Holland,
lb.

Holland House ; its historical asso-
ciations, V. 161-176; Sir Waher
Cope, 162 ; Henry Rich, first Earl of
Holland, 164 ; family of Fox, Lord
Holland ; John Thorpe, architect ;
the house ; chapel; terrace; pictures
and prints ; ghost stories ; library ;
relics of Napoleon, ib. ; room in
which Addison disd, 166 ; his death
and funeral ; Charles James Fox ;
Samuel Rogers ; descent of the
property ; Fairfax ; third Earl of
Holland ; his widow married to
Addison, ib. ; Henry Fox, 168 ; Sir
Stephen Fox ; Lady Caroline Len-
nox ; Lady Sarah Lennox and
George HL, 170 ; Stephen, second
Lord Holland, 171 ; Henry Richard,
third Lord ; his patronage of litera-
ture ; Lady Holland ; political and
literary assemblies, ib. : fourth Lord
Holland ; gardens, 175 ; Rogers'
seat ; Inigo Jones's gateway, ib.

"Holland's (Lady) mob," at Bartholo-
mew Fair, ii. 349.

Holland Street, Southwark ; " Hol-
land's Leaguer," vi. 32; "stew,"4l.

Hollar, Wenceslaus, iii. 74, 569 ; iv.
29; vi. 174.

Holies Street, Cavendish Square, iv.
446 ; Byron's birthplace ; Napoleon
HI., 447-

Holies Street, Clare Market, iii. 42, 43.

Hollingshead, John ; "A Night on the
Monument," i. 569.

HoUis, Denzil, iii. 240.

Holloway, ii. 274 ; v. 373 ; " Mother
Red Cap,"ii. 274 ; "Half Moon ; "
Holloway Cheesecakes ; Sir Henry
Blount, ib ; the "hollow way," v.
373 ; Copenhagen Fields and Cattle
Market, 374 ; "Brecknock Arms"
tavern, 376 ; fatal duel between
Munro and Fawcett ; City Prison,
ib. ; New Jerusalem Cliurch, 380 ;
Seven Sisters' Road and tavern ;
the seven trees, ib. ; Holloway Hall,
381 ; Upper Flolloway ; St. Sa-
viour's Hospital ; St. John's Church ;
' ' Archway Tavern ; ' ' Duval's Lane,
ib. ; la:ar-house for lepers, 382 ;
small-pox hospital, 3S4 ; Whitting-
ton's stone, 385 ; story of Whitting-
ton, 3S6 ; Archway Road and
Whiltington College, 388.
HoUow.iy, Messrs. ; " Holloway's
Pills," iii. 20.

Holloway, the murderer, execution of,

ii- 453-
Holly hedge at Saye's Court, vi. 154.
Holly ; " Holly Bush " Tavern, Hamp-

stead, V. 465.
Holly Lodge and Village, Highgate, v.

411.
Holme, The, Regent's Park, v. 267.
Holt, Chief Justice, ii. 563.
Holy Wells, iii. 21 ; vi. 129.
Holywell Lane, Shoreditch, ii. 195.
Holywell Street, Strand, iii. 33.
Holywell Street, Westminster, iv. 3.
Home Office, iii. 388.
Homerton, v. 521.
Homoeopathic Hospital, iv. 562.
Homes for Destitute Boys, iii. 212.
Hone, William, i. 51, 52, 221 ; ii. 476 ;

v. 293, 341, 563.
Honey Lane, i. 376.
Honour Oak, Peckham Rye, vi. 292 ;

" Oak of Honour liiU ;" semaphore

telegraph, ///.
Hood, Thomas, i. 59, 65, 261 ; v. 220 :

vi. 140, 284.
Hook, James, father of Theodore Hook,

'V. 435-
Hook, Theodore, i, 74, 109, lio, III,
445 ; iii. 249; iv. 90, 95, 165, 176,
194, 424, 464 ; vi. 494, 505, 506,

507, 524-
Hooker, Dr., Master of the Temple, i.

155-
Hoole, James, translator of Tasso, i.

75 ; iii. 212.
Hooper, Bishop, ii. 404.
Hope, H. T., M.P., art collections in

Duchess Street and Piccadilly, iv.

286, 44S.
Hope Theatre, Bankside, vi. 50.
Hopton's almshouses. Church Street,

Blackfriars, vi. 41, 3S1.
Horace Street, Lisson Grove, formerly

Cato Street, iv. 410.
Horatia, daughter of Lord Nelson, iv.

43°-
Home, Sir William, iv. 449.
" Horn Fair," Charlton, vi. 233.
" Horn in the Hoop," Fleet Street, i.

53-

Horner, Thos., his panorama of London
from St. Paul's, i. 255 ; v. 269, 270,
272.

" Horns " Tavern, Kennington, vi. 339.

Hornsey, v. 428 ; etymology ; situation
and growth ; Hornsey Wood, //'. ;
Lodge Hill, 429 ; fortifications ;
Bishop of London's Park ; historical
events, ib. ; Hornsey Wood House,
430 ; " Sluice House," 431 ; Moore,
434 ; Lalla Rookh Cottage, ib. ;
Alexandra Palace, 435 ; Crouch
End, 437 ; growth of population, ib.

Hornsey Church, v. 433 ; the old tower ;
monuments; Dr. Atterbury; Rogers;
daughter of Moore ; rectors, ib.

Hornsey Lane, v. 394.

Hornsey Road ; Claude Duval and
Turpin, ii. 275.

Hornsey Wood House, v. 430.

Horological Institute, ii. 325.

Horseferry Road, Westminster, iv. 5 ;
the old "horse ferry;" escape of
Maryof Modena and James II., ik. :
Horseferry and Vauxhall Regatta,
6, 41.

Horse Guards, The, iii. 386 ; clock ;
parade-ground ; Spanish and Turkish
cannon ; mounted sentinels, ib. ;

origin of the name, 387 ; Com-
mander-in-Chiefs Department ; his
duties ; levees, ib.

Horse Guards, Regiments of. {See
Guards.)

Horselydoivn, vi. 109 ; " Horsey
Down ;" Artillery Street ; Fair
Street, ib. ; St. John's Church, 1 10 ;
Cioat's Yard ; Benjamin Reach's
Anabaptist meeting - house, ib. ;
Baptisterion, III; " Dipping Alley ;"
School of St. Olave's and St. John's,
ib. ; "The Rosary," 112; Artillery
Hall, 113; Jacob's Island, 116;
Halfpenny Alley ; Farthing Alley ;
Folly Ditch, 1 14 ; Mill Street ;
Hickman's Folly, 116 ; woodchop-
pers, 117.

Horsemonger Lane Gaol, vi. 253 ; Col.
Despard, 254 ; Leigh Hunt ; Moore
and Byron ; execution of the Man-
nings, lb.

"Horse and Horseshoe" Taveon, iv.
487.

Horses : German ; Flanders maares ;
Hyde Park, Rotten Row, iv. 382,
383, 386, 387, 398, 399.

Horseshoe Court, iii. 22.

" Horseshoe " Tavern, Tottenham
Court Road, iv. 485.

Horseshoes and hobnails. Counting, iii.
561.

Horsley, Bishop, iid. 460 ; vi. 263.

Horticultural Society, Royal. (See
Royal Horticultural Society.)

Hosier Lane ; old houses, ii» 48S.

Hospitals, iii. 197; iv. 467, 551, 560,
561 ; V. 4, 23, 27, S3, 95, 104, 507,
508 ; vi. 38, 495.

Host, The ; bread for the sacrifice of
the altar ; mode of preparing it, vi.
118.

Hotel Metropole, iii. 32S.

" Hot Gospellers," v. 440.

"Hot-houses," or "Hummums," iii.
251.

Houndsditch, ii. 163 ; Ben Jonson ;
Beaumont and Fletcher, ib.; charity;
Jew clothes-men, 164.

Hour-glasses in pulpits, i, 36S ; ii. 14G ;
iii. 574; vi. 377. ^

" House of Charity," Greek Street, iii.

195-
House of Detention, Clerkenwell, ii.

3°9-

House of Detention, Holioway, v. 376.

Houses in London, total number of, vi.
557.

Houses of Parliament, iii. 524 ; origin
of Parliaments ; peers, abbesses,
and peeresses summoned ; Magna
Charta and its ratification, ib. ;
knights, citizens, and burgesses sum-
moned, 496 ; separation of the two
Houses, 497 ; old House of Lords ;
tapestries ; meetings of the Com-
mons in the Chapter House ; re-
moval to St. Stephen's Chapel, //'. ;
old House of Commons, 499 ;
Speaker's house, 500; "Bellamys,"
502 ; Great Fire of 1834; burning
of Exchequer "tallies," 521 ; new
Hosses of Parliament, 503 ; de-
signs for their erection ; Barry ajid
Pugin ; extent and dimensions, ib.;
buildings described, 504 ; Speaker's
House, 505, 518; Victoria Tower,
505 ; Royal Staircase, iii. 506 ; Re-
bing Room ; Royal Gallery and

6o4

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

House of Lords, 507 ; frescoes, 507,
516; Throne, 507; Central Hall, St.
Stephen's Hall, and statues, 508,509;
House of Commons ; the "Whip ;"
galleries ; the reporters' gallery ;
Speaker's chair, ib.; ventilation, 510,
518 ; lighting, 510 ; history of Par-
liamentar}' reporting, 512; swear-
ing in of members, 513 ; strangers'
gallery, 514; intruders in the two
^ Houses, 515 ; divisions and " tel-
lers,"517; refreshment rooms, 519 ;
clock-tower; clock; "Big Ben,"
ill. ; historical reminiscences, 524 —

532 ; Queen Victoria's first speech,

533 ; the fire in 1834, 557 ; " State
services " in St. Margaret's Church ;
Speaker's pew, 570.

Howard, John, i. 193 ; ii. 405, 408

441 ; V. 521 ; vi. 68.
Howard Street, Strand ; murder of

Will Mountfort, iii. 81.
Howitt, William and Mary, v. 412.
Howley, Archbishop, vi. 429, 435.
Ho.xton, v. 25; " Pimlico," old tavern
so called ; " Pimlico Walk ;"
"Hogsdon;" "Plocheston;" Charles
Square ; Aske's Hospital ; Haber-
dashers' .School ; Balmes House ;
Sir George \Vhitmore, ib. ; Lunatic
Asylum, 526 ; Whitmore Bridge ;
Tyssen and De Beauvoir families ;
De Beauvoir Town ; De Beauvoir
Square ; St. Peter's Church ; Tot-
tenham Road ; Roman Catholic
Church, //'.

Hoyle, author of "Whist," iv. 430,
442.

Hudson, George, the " Railw,ay King,"
V. 22.

Hudson, Sir Jeffrey, dwarf, ii. 430 ; iii.
489.

"Huff, Mother," or "Mother Dam-
nable," v. 471.

Hugo, Rev. Thos., Crosby Hall and
.St. Helen's Church, ii. 155, 151,
158.

Huggm Lane, 1. 364, 365.

Huggins, farmer of the Fleet Prison,
ii. 406.

Huguenots, iv. 76, Si ; vi. 481.

Hulbert, James ; Fishmongers' Alms-
houses, Newington, vi. 257.

Hullah, John, iv. 193.

Humane Society, iv. 402, 404 ; vi. 377.

Humboldt, vi. 323.

Hume, Joseph, M.P., iv. 412.

Humfrey, Ozias, v. 26.

" I lummums, Old " and "New,"Covent
Garden, iii. 251.

Humphrey, Duke, dining with, i. 239.

Hungerford Market, iii. 131.

Hungerford Stairs, iii. 296.

Hungerford Suspension Bridge ; its re-
moval, iii. 132.

Hunsden House, Islington, ii. 267.

Hunsdon House, Bkickfriars ; fatal fall
of the cha|)el, i. 201.

Hunt .and Roskcll, iv. 301.

Hunt, John, imprisonment of, ii. 299.

Hunt, Leigh, ii. 369; v. 65, 118, 221,
258. 457. 500 ; vi. 253, 490, 546,
576.

Hunter, Dr. John, iii. 46, 168: v. 5.

Hunter, Sir Claudius, Lord M.ayor, i.
"6, 329—33'-

Hunter Street, Brunswick Square, iv.
576 ; Marchioness Townshend, v.
365-

Hunting, in and near London, iv. 48,

17S, 323. 376. 377, 438, 4SS; v.
51, 263, 426 ; VI. 239.

Hunti.ngdon, Countess of; Spa Fields
Chapel, ii. 303 ; v. 464 ; vi. 375.

Huntington, William, "Sinner Saved;"
his eccentricities, ii. 2S4 ; iv. 461.

Hurlinghain House, Fulham ; aristo-
cratic sports, vi. 524.

Hutchinson, Colonel, and his wife,
Lucy Apsley ; romantic story, ii. 507.

Hyde Park, iv. 376 ; site in British
and Roman eras ; manor of Eia ;
the manor of Hyde ; Abbey of
Westminster ; Henry VIII. 's hunt-
ing-grounds ; rangers, ib.; deer ;
herons and hawking, 377 ; trained
bands ; General Monk, 378 ; park
sold by Parliament, 380 ; fenced-
in ; fortifications ; opened to the
public, ih.; apple-trees; Evelyn;
Pepys ; the "Ring," 3S1, 382,
3S6, 3S7 ; coaches, 381, 382 ; camp
of refuge from the plague, '^'^ \
Cake-house ; walnut-tree avenue,
ib.; fruit and flower women, 3S6 ;
reviews and encampments, 388 ;
duels, 389, 393 ; peace rejoicings
(1814 — 1815),;'^.; situation; rural
scenery ; purity of air and extent,
394 ; entrances, 395 ; riding-house ;
Chelsea Waterworks ; mineral
springs ; statue of Achilles ; Sir
Richard Westmacott, ib.; Rotten
Row, and the " Lady's Mile," 398 ;
the Drive ; Horace Walpole at-
tacked by highwaymen, ib. ; the
fashions ; carriages and horsemen,
399 ; Four-in-IIand and Coaching
Clubs, 400 ; springs and conduits ;
Serpentine river ; Caroline, queen
of George II., ib.; John Martin's
plans, 401 ; Royal Humane Society,
402 ; bathing, 404 ; swimming
club ; boating ; drownings ; powder
magazine ; bridge ; Great Exhi-
bition of 1851 ; apple-stall keeper,
ib.; political meetings, 405 ; rail-
ings destroyed ; flower-beds ; Mar-
ble Arch, ib.

Hyde Park Comer ; toll-gate, iv. 290,
3''5S ; V. 8.

Hyde Park Place, iv. 407.

" llyndman's Bounty," vi. 42.

I.

Ice-houses, iv. 178.

Illuminations, iv. 53, 260, 413.

Jlliislmteii I.oitilon News, iii. 71.

Imperial Gas Works, v. 371 ; vi. 525.

Imperial Institute, v. 116.

Inchbald, Mrs., v. 125, 130, 177.

Incledon, Charles, iii. 231 ; v. 482.

India Gffiec, iii. 393 ; Sir M. Digby
Wyatt ; Imilding described ; decora-
tions ; records ; library of Oriental
MSS. and books; Museum, 394.

Indi.m Museum, v. 108.

Ingr.ani, Herbert, founder of the Illtis-
IratcJ I.ondou Naos, iii. 71.

Inkliom Court, ii. 145.

Inns of Chancery, ii. 570 ; iii. 51.

" Inns" of Ciiuit, iii. 32, 51, 58.

Inns of Court Hotel, iii. 50.

InnhoUIer.s' llall, ii. 41.

Insane persons in London, vi. 570.

Intellectual attractions of London ;
opinions of eminent writers, vi. 575.

International E.xhibitions (1S51, 1862),
V. 28, 29, 104, 528. (See also Great
Exhibition of 1851.)

Inverness, Duchess of, iv. 407 • v
150.

Ireland, Jews transported to, i. 426.

Ireland, Rev. John, Dean of West-
minster, iii. 460.

Ireland, Samuel, iv. 167.

Ireland Yard, Blackfriars ; house
bought by Shakespeare, i. 219.

Ireton, General, iii. 539 ; v. 400 ; vi.
491.

Irish labourers, iii. io5.

Irish localities, iii. 23.

Iiish residents in London, iii. 1S9,
207 ; statistics, vi. 570.

Ironmonger Lane, i. 346 ; Mercers'
Company and Hall, 376— -3S3 ; .St.
Martin's Church, 383.

Ironmongers' Company and Hall, ii.
177 ; V. 525.

Irving, Mr. Henry, iii. 117.

Irving, Rev. Edward, iv. 466 ; the
" unknown tongues," 572 ; v. 490.

Irving, Washington, i. 1,62 ; ii. 225,
435. 476.

Isabella, Queen of Edward II., ii. 365,
369-

"Isle of Ducks," vi. 108.

Islington, ii. 251 ; etymologj' ; Roman
road ; Fitzstephcn ; hawking and
archery; Islington butts, ih.; "Mar-
quis of Lslington," 252 ; archery,
'253; "Robin Hood" Tavern, 254;
Prince Llewellyn, 255 ; game ; re-
ligious martyrs ; Islington dairies,
ib.; entrenchments, 256 ; cream and
cakes ; duck -hunting ; "The Merry
Milkmaid;" ducking-ponds; "The
Walks of Islington;' "Saracen's
Head," ib. ; the plague, 257 ; Col-
man's " Islington Spa ;" " Delights
of Islington;" highw.aymen, ;/'.; Col.
Aubert and the Loyal Islington
Volunteers, 258; old "Queen's
He.ad" Tavern, 260; residence of
Raleigh; "Pied Bull," /i.; "Angel"
inn, 261 ; Agricultural Hall ; St.
Mary's Church, //'. ; Fisher House,
262; "Frog Hall;" 'Barley
Mow;" George Morland ; " Rainy
Day Smith ; " house of the Fowler
family, ib. ; "Old Parr's He.id,"
263 ; Laycock's Dairy, ib. ; Cole-
brooke Row ; residence of Charles
Lamb, 266 ; William Woodfall ;
D'Aguilar, miser ; St. Peter's Church ;
Irvingile Church ; New River, ib. ;
the poet Collins, 267; the "Crown ;"
Hunsden House, ib. ; Brown,
founder of the "Brownists," 268;
Topham, the "Strong Man," 268;
Cattle Market, Lower Road ; its
failure, 282; ImiJcrialTheatre, iv 20.

Italian Chapel, Oxendon .Street, iv. 231.

Italian sermons, Mercers' Chapel, i. 3S0.

Ivory, James, iv. 26.S.

Ivy Bridge Lane, Strand, iii. loi.

J-

"Jackanapes on Horseback," sijjn, vi.

172.
" Jai kers, The Honourable Society of,"
" iii. 32-

GENERAL INDEX.

605

"Jack in the Green;" May Day, v.

223.
Jackson, pugilist, v. lOi.
'•Jack's Coffee-house," ii. 1S2.
"Jack Straw's Castle," Hampstead ;

Jack Straw, v. 454.
"Jack Straw's Castle," Highbury, ii.

273-
Jacob's Island, Dockhead, vi. 113.
"Jacob's Well " Tavern and passage,

i. 412.
Jamaica Road and Jamaica Level,

Bermondsey, vi. 130.
James I., i. 25, 160,532; ii. 29, 72, 179,

253. 383. 387 ; "i- 287, 344, 37S,

404. 437, 440; IV. 46, 377, 512,

515 ; V. 67, 70, 313 ; vi. 32, 54,

173, 332, 490.
James II., i. 501 ; iii. 299, 328, 369,

384; iv. 5, 53, 104, no, 178, 255,

323 ; V- 74.

James I. of Scotland, vi. 21.
James IV. of Scotland, i. 300, 365.
James, Sir Bartholomew, Lord Mayor,

i- 399, 517-

James Street, Buckingham Gate, iv.
25 ; Tart Mall ; Richard Glover ;
Gifford, i!>. ; John, Duke of Marl-
borough, 26.

James Street, Covent Garden, iii. 262.

James Street, Haymarket ; Royal Ten-
nis Court, iv. 231.

Jansen, Bernard, Northumberland
House, iii. 136.

Janssen, Sir Theophilus ; South Sea
Bubble, i. 542.

"Jarveys;" hackney coachmen, iii.

334-

Jay, Cyrus, trial of Hone, i. 51.

Jeaffreson, Henry, M.D., ii, 202, 363.

Jeffrey, Lord, iii. 530; v. 292.

Jeffreys, Judge, ii. 75, 136 ; iv. 29.

Jekyll, Sir Joseph, Master of the Rolls,
i. 79, 166.

"yt' lie sals qiioi" Club, iv. 136.

Jenkins, Judge, ii. 563.

Jenner, Dr., v. 153.

"Jenny's Whim," Pimlico, v. 45.

Jenyns, Soame, iv. 39S, 556.

Jerd.in, William, iv. 173 ; v. 102.

Jernian, architect, i. 501 : ii- 4-

Jermyn Street, iv. 203 ; Henry Jermyn,
Earl of St. Albans ; St. Albans
House, /(5.; strange story ; Brunswick
Hotel, 204 ; Museum of Practical
Geology ; Royal Society for the
Prevention of Cruelty to Animals,
205 ; Turkish Baths, 206.

Jerrold, Douglas, i. 57, 58, 137 ; iii.
75, 104, 214 ; iv. 280 ; V. 102, 249,
321 ; vi. 316, 495.

Jersey, Earl and Countess of, i. 38 ; iv.

197, 332-

Jerusalem Chamber, iii. 45S ; West-
minster Abbey ; death of Plenry
IV., ib.; lying in state of Addison,
Congreve, and Prior ; Committee
for revision of the Bible, 459.

Jerusalem Coffee House, ii. 172.

"Jerusalem" Tavern, ii. 317, 323.

Jesuit Church, iv. 335.

Jesuits' College, Clerkenwell, ii. 327.

Jewels, Keeper of the King's, ii. 232.

Jew clothesmen in Houndsditch, ii. 164.

**Jew King," money lender, vi. 513.

Jewin Street, Aldersgate, i. 428 ; ii.
220.

Jewish cemeteries, v. 570.

Jewish customs, ii. 146,

Jewish dissenters, iv. 409, 410.

Jewish exiles drowned, ii. 16.

Jewisli school, Greek Street, iii. 195.

Jewish slaughter-house, Clare Market,
iii. 41.

Jewry, Old, i. 425.

Jewry, The, in the Liberties of the
Tower, ii. 107.

Jews admitted to Parliament, iii. 513.

Jews' burial ground, v. 88, 509.

Jews, converted, their house in Chan-
cery Lane, i. 76, 425, 42S.

"Jew's Harp" Tavern, v. 255.

Jews' Hospital, Lower Norwood, vi.

316.
Jews in London, statistics, vi. 570.

{See also Old Jewry.)
Jews massacred at the coronation of

Richard I., iii. 402.
Jews' .Synagogues: Stepney, ii. 140;

Great St. Helen's, 160 ; Duke's

Place, 248 ; Greek Street, iii. 195.
Joe Miller and the "Jest Book," iii. 29.
John Bull newspaper, i. 109, no, in ;

iv. 90.
John, Kmg, i. 281, 425; ii. 404, 441 ;

vi. 142, 287.
John, King of France, i. 556 ; iii. 95 ;

vi. 237.
John of Eltham, vi. 237.
John Street, Adelphi ; Society of Arts,

iii. 107.
John Street, Bedford Row, iv. 551 ;

Baptist Chapel ; Hon. and Rev.

Baptist Noel, ;/'.
John Street, Berkeley Square ; Ber-
keley Chapel, iv. 334.
John Street, Lisson Grove, iv. 410.
"John's" Coffeehouse; Fulwood's

Rents, ii. 536.
Johnson, Dr., i. 35, 41, 51, 54, 98, loS,

109, no, 112, 113, 115, 118, 166,

167, 206, 219, 41S ; ii. 14, 317, 318,

437, 439, 446, 449, 4S9, 575 5 ">■
69, 75, n2, 134, 178, 224, 265,
266, 275, 27S, 284, 305, 474, 512,
569; iv. 64, 141, 154, 172, 182,
220, 279, 2S6, 292, 328, 340, 343,
356, 357, 368, 452, 459, 461, 464,
498, 512, 554; V. 26, 61, 80, 92,
194, 351, 437, 502; vi. 34, 35, 194,
208, 276, 317, 346, 361, 446, 450,

453, 54S, 552, 560.

Johnson, Gerard, sculptor of Shake-
speare's tomb, Stratford-on-Avon,
vi. 93.

"Johnson's Alamode Beef-house,'
Clare Court ; Dickens, iii. 284.

Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, i. 109 ;
Dr. Johnson's residence, no; John
Bull nev.'spo.per, 109,110, ni.

Joiners' Hall, ii. 41.

"Jonathan's" Coffee House; Addison;
Mrs. Centlivre, ii. 173.

Jones, George, R.A., iv. 458 ; v. 408.

Jones, Sir Horace, architect, i. 3S5 ;
ii. 493. _

Jones, Inigo, 1. 7", 245, 246 ; li. 36,
158, 234; iii. 44, 47, 54, 91, 209,
213, 238, 242, 248, 249, 330, 341,
342, 404, 457 ; iv. 50, 176, 536; vi.

173, 563-
Jones, J. Winter, iv. 518.
Jones, John Gale, iv. 281.
Jones, Owen, iv. 455 ; v. 35.
Jones, Richard (" Gentleman Jones "),

teacher of elocution, v. 9.
"Jones, the boy," at Buckingham

r.ilace, iv. 6g.

Jonson, Ben, i. 39, 201, 351, 422, 513 ;

ii. 20, 164, 259, 345 ; iii. 54, 57,

159, 201, 341, 342, 425, 472, 563 ;

iv. 2, 291 ; V. 39, 50, 525, 526 ; vi.

45, 47, 48, 50, 52, 250, 297.
Jordan, Mrs., iii. 221 ; v. n, 14.
Jordan's figures of Corineus and Gog-

magog, i. 384, 386.
Jubilee Almshouses, Greenwich, vi. 194.
Jubilee masquerade, Ranelagh, v. 78.
Jubilee Place, Chelsea, v. 88.
Judd, Sir Andrew, Lord Mayor, i. 401.
Judd .Street, iv. 576.
Judge's Walk, Hampstead, v. 459.
Jullien's Promenade Concerts, iii. 234 ;

vi. 267.
Junior Athenaeum Club, iv. 286.
Junior Carlton Club, iv. 150.
Junior Naval and Military Club, iv. 144.
Junior Oxford and Cambridge Club, iv.

298.
Junior St. James's Club, iv. 160.
Junior Travellers' Club, iv. 184, 322.
Junior United Service Club, iv. 145.
Junius, iv. 328, 538.
Justice W.alk, Chelsea, v. 92.
Juxon, Bishop, ii. 567 ; vi. 512.

K.

Katherine of Arragon, Queen of Henry

VIII., i. 200 ; ii. 155 ; vi. 436.
Katharine of Valois, (Jueen of Henry

v., i. 316; iii. 434,441 ; vi. ng.
Kauffmann, Angelica, iv. 272.
Keach, Benjamin ; meeting-house, vi.

no.
Kean, Charles, and Mrs. Kean, iv. 462.
Kean, Edmund, iii. 309 ; vi. 527.
Keats, John, i. 65, 341 ; v. 458, 472,

500 ; vi. 54S, 568.
Keeble, Sir Henry, Lord Mayor, i. 554.
Keeling, Lord Chief Justice, ii. 237.
Keith, Dr. George ; .secret marriages,

iv. 347, 349-

Keith, L.ady (Miss Thr.ale), iv. 286.

Keith, Rev. Alexander ; Fleet mar-
riages, ii. 4n.

Kelly .-xnd Co., printers, " Post-Office
Directories," iii. 23, 212.

Kelly, Michael, iv. 98.

Kelly, Miss ; Royalty Theatre, iii. 194.

Kenible, Adelaide, iii. 233.

Kemble, Charles, iii. 231, 232, 233; iv.
200; vi. 373.

Kemble, Fanny, iii. 254.

Kemble, John Philip, iii. 231, 232; iv.
277; vi. 575-

Kemble, Stephen, iii. 231.

Kendal, Duchess of; South Sea Bubble,
i. 542.

Kenmure, Lord, belieaded on Tower
Hill, ii. 76; iii. 551.

Kenniugton, vi. 331 ; etymology ;
descent of the manor, i/>. ; royal
residence in Saxon times, 332 ; Ilar-
dicanute ; Richard I. ; Edward the
Black Prince ; James I., //'. ; Long
Barn, 333 ; manor house ; Caron
House ; Vauxhall Well ; Kenning-
ton Oval ; .St. Joseph's Convent,
ii. ; Beaufoy's Vinegar Works, 334 ;
Tradescant ; Kennington Common,
now Kennington P.ark ; place of
execution, ;/'., 335, 339 ; Chartist
gathering, 335 ; fair, 338 ; field
preachers ; Whitetield ; Charles
Wesley ; model fai'm cottages, il>. ;
St. Agnes Church, 339 ; St. Mark's

6o6

OLD AND NE\>' LONDON.

Church; the "Horns" Tavern;
South London Waterworks, ib. ;
Spring Garden, 340; Licensed Vic-
tuallers' School ; maypole, «' J.

Kenrick, Dr., i. 275; iv. 436.

Kensal Green Cemetery, v. 220.

Kensington, v. 117; descent of the
manor ; Domesday Book ; the De
-Veres, I'i. ; Henry Rich, Earl of
Holland, llS ; a parochial enigma ;
etymology ; Gore House and estate,
ib. ; Wilberforce, 119; Countess of
Blessington ; literary society, ib.;
Count D'Orsay, 120 ; sale of Lady
Blessington's effects, 122; "sym-
posium ;" Soyer ; Albert Hall ;
Park House ; lirompton Park Nur-
sery ; Loudon and Wise ; Batty 's
hippodrome ; turnpike and halfway
house, ib,; St. Stephen's Church,
123; " Hogmire Lane;"' Christ
Church, Victoria Road, ib.; "Kingly
Kensington," 124; High Street;
"Red Lion" Inn ; proclamation of
George I. ; Colby House ; Kensing-
ton House, ib.; Old Kensington
Bedlam, 125 ; Albert Grant's man-
sion ; Kensington Square, ib. ;
Kensington Church, 128 ; Charity
School, 130 ; new Vestry Hall ;
Campden House, ib. , Campden
Hill, 131, 132; private theatre;
caper-tree ; Campden House burnt
down ; observatory ; Sir James
South, 131; Argyll Lodge, 133;
Bedford Lodge ; Holly Lodge ;
Macaulay, ib.; Orbell's Buildings,
134; Kensington Gravel Pits;
Slieffield House ; artists ; Callcott ;
Wilkie ; old street lamps, 135 ;
highwaymen ; ghost story, iO. ;
Scarsdale Terrace, 136 ; Crippled
Boys' Home ; Scarsdale House ;
Wright's Lane ; Catholic University
College, //'. ; monasteries and con-
vents, 137 ; Fathers of the Oratory ;
Catholic churches and schools ;
Pro-Cathedr.al, Newland Terrace ;
" Adam and Eve " public-ho»se, ib.;
Palace Gate House, 139 ; High
Street ; " King's Arms" Tavern ;
Henry VHI.'s Conduit; Queen
Elizabeth ; Palace Green ; Volun-
teers; Water Tower, ib. ; Thackeray's
house, 140; Earl's Court Road, 161 ;
Earl's Court Terrace ; Leonard's
Place ; Edwardes Square ; Warwick
Road; Warwick Gardens; Weslcyan
Chapel ; West London Railway ;
Addison Road, ib. ; Holland House
(see Holland House).

Kensington Gardens, v. 152 ; William
\\\.\ Lcudon and Wise, gardeners ;
Dutch and French gardening ; Le
Notre, 153 ; additions by Queen
Anne ; conservatory ; banqueting
house ; fetes ; orangery ; Albert
Memorial ; broad walk ; kitchen
garden ; apple-trees ; alcove, //'. ;
gardens improved by Bridgman,
154; round pond ; avenues ; " pros-
pect house;" "hermitage;" wall
and fosse, or, "Ha! ha !;" Kent ;
"Capability Brown"; nightingales;
gardens opened to the public ; regu-
lations ; fox-hunting, //'.,• military
bands, 155 ; trees, shrubs, and
(lower-beds, 155, 160 ; .Scotch pines,
156; Serpentine, 157; l)rrdgc ;

basins ; fountain, ib. ; promenades,
158 ; costume ; hoops ; head
dresses ; Macaronis, pigtails, ib. ;
Madame Recamier ; Duchess of
Kent and Queen Victoria, 159.

Kensington Gate, Plyde Park, iv. 395.

Kensington ; nursery grounds ; Messrs.
Lee, V. 177.

Kensington Palace, v. 142, 145 ; Not-
tingham House ; purchased by Wil-
liam HL; improvements; Queen
Anne ; orangery ; additions by
George L. George IL, and Duke
of Sussex, ib.; Court of William
HL, 142 — 146; death of the King,
his Queen, Queen Anne, Prince
George of Denmark, George H.,
and the Duke of Sussex ; court of
Queen Anne ; gentlemen ushers, or
King's guard ; Princess Sophia ;
Queen Caroline ; Princess Charlotte,
ib. : library of the Duke of Sussex,
148 ; Duke and Duchess of Kent ;
birth of Queen "N'ictoria ; her chris-
tening; accession to the throne, ib.;
her Majesty's first council, 149 ;
Duke of Sussex ; Lady Augusta
Murray ; Duchess of Inverness,
150 ; the building, 141 ; state and
private apartments ; grand stair-
case ; chapel royal ; historical
paintings, ib.

Kensington Palace Gardens, v. 13S ;
Thackeray's house, 140.

Kensington Park Gardens, v. iSo.

Kensington Volunteers, Old ; their
colours, V. 139.

Kent, Duke and Duchess of, iv. 451 ;
V. 25, 149, 159 ; vi. 375, 409.

Kent, landscape gardener, vi. 553.

Kent Street, Southwark, hospital for
lepers, vi. 70.

"Kentish Drovers" Tavern, Peckham
Road, vi. 287, 28S.

Kentish Town, v. 317 ; Cantilupe
Town ; Bishops de Cantilupe ;
manor of Kantelows, ib. ; Fortess
Place, 318 ; armed guard for tra-
vellers, 320 ; Assembly Rooms ;
Weston's Gardens; races; "Cor-
poration of Kentish Town," ib. :
"Castle" Tavern, 321; Emanuel
Hospital for the Blind ; Dr. Sluke-
ley ; Lower Craven Place ; Douglas
Jerrold, ib.

Ken Wood, Hampstead. (Sec Caen
Wood.)

Keppel Street, iv. 566.

Ketch, John; "Jack Ketch," execu-
tioner, v. 197.

Key, Sir John, Lord Mayor, i. 116,

413-

Keyse, Thomas ; his pictures, Ber-
mondsey .Sp.a, vi. 128.

Kidder, the famous pastrycook, ii. 531.

" Kiddles;" nets placed in the Thames,
ii. 62.

Kilburn, v. 243 ; its former rural as-
pect ; extent ; Maida Vale ; its
subjection to the Abbey of West-
minster ; hermitage, //'. ; Benedic-
tine Piiory, 244, 245 ; pilgrims to
St. Albans ; inventory of the sup-
pressed priory ; relic of the holy
cross ; descent of the property ; St.
Mary's Church, ib. ; Sisterhood of
St. Pcter'.s, 245 ; St. Augustine's
Church ; mineral spring ; " Kilburn
Wells," ib. ; legend of fr.itricide,

246 ; Roman Catholic chapel and
monastery, 247 ; " Beau " Brum-
mel ; Brandesbury House, 248.

Killigrew, Thomas, i. 195 ; iii. 39, 41,
219, 220.

Kilmarnock, Lord, ii. 76, 95 S '"• 55' '■>
iv. 469.

Kindergarten Schools, Stockwell, \'\.

329-

" King of Bohemia's Head " Tavern,
vi. 561.

" King of Clubs" (Club), iv. 310.

King Edward's School, St. George's
I'ields, vi. 362.

"King John's Palace," public-house,
iv. 479.

King Street, Cheapside, i. 383.

King Street, Covent Garden, iii. 263 ;
"Three Kings" Inn; sale-rooms;
" Essex Serpent ; " Coleridge ;
Garrick Club, /'/'.

King Street, Snow Hill, ii. 4S9 ; Dr.
Johnson's "Betty Broom," ib.

King Street, St. James's, iii. 201 ; Na-
poleon III., ib. ; Nerot's Hotel, iv.
191 ; St. James's Theatre ; Braham,
ib. ; Willis's Rooms, 196 ; Christie
and Manson's auction sales, 200.

King Street, Wardour Street, iv. 238.

King Street, Westminster, iv. 26 ; dis-
tinguished residents ; Cromwell and
his mother, 27, 28 ; Charles I. ;
the Plague ; coffee-houses, ih.

King's beam, for weighing wool, i. 43 1 ;
the Weigh-house, 563.

King's Bench Prison, vi. 64; first prison
near the Marshalsea ; Prince Hal
and Justice Gascoigne ; Wilkes, ib.;
burnt down by the Gordon rioters,
65; rebuilt; the liberties or "rules;"
discipline ; Jones, the marshal, ib. ;
described by Smollett, 66 ; John
Howard ; Crown prisoners, 68 ;
Haydon's "Mock Election," 69;
its demolition, ib.

King's College Hospital, iii. 29.

King's College, Strand, iii. 94.

King's Cross, ii. 278 ; statue of George
1\' ; its removal ; dust-heaps ; St.
Chad's well ; Great Northern Rail-
way station, ib.

King's Cross Station, Metropolititn
Railway, v. 227.

King's evil, iii. 353 ; iv. no.

King's E.xchange, i. 346, 356.

" King's Head " Tavern, Euston Road ;
Hogarth's " March to Finchley,"
iv. 482.

" King's Head " Tavern, Fenchurch
Street ; Princess Elizabeth, ii. 176.

"King's Head," Ivy Lane; Dr. John-
son's literary club, ii. 439.

"King's Mews," Charing Cross, iii.
129, 141.

King's Road, Chelsea, v. 86.

"King's Square," old name of Soho
Square, iii. 174.

Kingsgate Street, Holborn ; the King's
gate, iv. 549.

Kingsland, v. 527 ; hospital for lepers ;
" le lakes," ib.

KingsUind Ro.ad, v. 525; almshouses;
Shoreditch Workhouse ; St. Co-
lumba's Church, //'.

Kingston, Duchess of, iii. 532.

Kirby's Ca.stle, Bcthnal Green, ii. 147.

Kitchiner, Dr., iv. 476.

Kit-Kat Club, i. 70, 71, 72, 74; iii.
80 ; iv. 141 ; V. 459.

GENERAL INDEX.

607

"Knave of Clubs" Inn, Southwark,
vi. 13.

Kneller, Sir Godfrey, i. 70 ; iii. 146,
212, 273, 249 ; V. 141.

Knight, Charles, iv. 542 ; v. 413, 477.

Knight, Richard Payne, iv. 500.

Knightrider Street ; Linacre's house.
College of Physicians, i. 303 ; fish
dinners, ii. 2.

Knightsbvidge, v. 15 ; derivation of the
name ; early history ; bridge over
the Westbourne ; village green and
maypole, 16 ; bad roads and high-
waymen, 17 ; forest on the site of
Lowndes Square, iS ; Lord Howard
of Elscrick ; Algernon Sidney :
Rye House Plot, ;/'. ; burial of
Henry VHI., 20; " Swan" Tavern ;
riots ; " Spring Garden," ib. ; the
"World's End," 21 ; Knightsbridge
Grove ; Mrs. Cornelys ; George
IV. ; Albert Gate, 21, 22 ; Cannon
Brewery, 22 ; George Hudson ;
French embassy ; Dunn's Chinese
collection, il>. ; ancient lazar-house,
23 ; Church of the Holy Trinity ;
irregidar and "secret" marriages,
ib.; barracks, 24 ; floor-cloth manu-
factory, ih. ; Kent House, 25 ; Stra-
theden House ; Kingston House ;
Rutland Gate, ib. ; Ennismore
Place, 27 ; Brompton Road ;
Brompton Square ; residents at
Knightsbridge ; Knightsbridge Ter-
race ; Tattersall's new auction
mart; the Green ; may-pole ; pound,
ib. ; old inns, 27, 2S : civil war,
2S ; cattle market ; air and water
supply, ib.

Knight's Hill, Norwood, vi. 314.

Knights Hospitallers. [Sei St. John's
Gate.)

Knipp, Mrs., comedian, and Pepys, i.
44 ; iii. 219, 220.

Knockers, stealing, iv. 472.

Knut. (.ytY Canute. )

" Koh-inoor," The, v. 38, 106.

Koningsmark, Count ; murder cf
Mr. Thomas Thynne, iii. 419 ; iv.
227, 277.

Kossuth, Louis, v. 298.

Kynaston, Edward, i. 197 ; actor of
women's parts ; Cockpit Theatre,
iii. 2ig, 256.

Kynaston, .Sir Francis ; the " Museum
Minerv:e," iii. 26S.

L.

Lackington's " Temple of the Muses ; "

his autobiography, ii. 206.
Ladbroke Square, v. 180.
Lad Lane, Gresham Street ; " Swan

with Two Necks." i. 374. ,
Lade, Sir John, iv. 97.
Ladies' Sanitary Association, iv. 465.
Ladies' Work Society, v. 97.
" Lady Holland's mob ;" Bartholomew

Fair, ii. 349.
Ladywell, Lewisham, vi. 246.
Laguerre, iii. 40.
Lalla Rookh Cottage, Muswell Hill ;

Moore, v. 434.
Lamb, Charles, i. 45, 16S, 176, 413,

544; ii. 266, 370; iv. 123, 191 ;

v. 567, 56S.
Lamb, Dr., conjuror, i. 421.
Lamb, William ; Lamb's Conduit ;

Lamb's Conduit Street, iv. 550.

Lambarde, William, vi. 191, 194, 225,
229, 237, 23S.

Lambert, Daniel, 259.

Lambert, Sir John ; South Sea Bubble,
i. 542.

Lambe's Almshouses, ii. 236.

Lambeth, vi. 3S3 ; the parish ; liberties
and wards ; early history ; descent
of the manor, ib. ; glass-blowers
and potters, 3S4 ; etymology ;
Roman and Danish occupation, ib.;
Lambeth Marsh, 385 ; imprison-
ment of Lady Arabella Stuart, 386 ;
boat-building, 387 ; Searle's boat-
yard ; old embankments ; Bank-
side ; Narrow Wall ; Broad Wall ;
Coade's artificial stone works ; old
windmill ; Mill Street ; Church
Osiers ; Pedlar's Acre ; the pedlar
and Ills dog, ib. ; Henry Paulet,
"Governor of Lambeth Marsh,"
388 ; Belvedere Road ; Belvedere
House and Gardens ; Cuper's
Gardens,//^.,- "Hercules" Inn and
Gardens, 389 ; Hercules Buildings ;
Apollo and Flora Gardens ; Curtis's
Gardens ; " Lambeth Wells ; "
sports, //'. ,• tavern signs, 390 ; Half-
penny Hatch, 392 ; Lambeth Water-
works, 407 ; shot factories, 408 ;
Infirmary for Children and Women,
409 ; St. John's Church, 410 ; South-
western Railw.ay Station ; New
Cut, 41 1 ; " Bower " Theatre, 412 ;
" penny gaffs ;" Sunday trading ;
Lambeth Baths, ib. ; St. Thomas's
Schools, 414 ; Lambeth JIarsh ;
Bonner's House, 415 ; All Saints'
Church and Schools, Lower Marsh,
416; Canterbury Music Hall, ib.;
Stangate, 417; "Old Grimaldi ;"
Carlisle Lane ; Carlisle House, resi-
dence of the Bishops of Rochester,
//'.; Norfolk Hou:-,e ; Dukes of Nor-
folk, 418 ; drug-mill of the Apothe-
caries' Company ; London Necro-
polis Company, ib. ; St. Thomas's
Hospital, 419 ; Albert Embankment,
422 ; Lambeth potteries, 424 ;
Lambeth School of Design ; Vaux-
hall plate-glass works, ib. ; British
Wine Manufactory, 425 ; doll
manufactory, Waterloo Road ; Par-
liamentary representation ; career of
William Roupell, ib. ; St. Mary's
Church, 443 ; painted window of
the Pedlar and his Dog, ■]'\'[ ; pulpit
and hour-glass, 445 ; interments
and monuments, 446 ; beacon, 447 ;
flight of Mary of Modena, ib.
Lambeth Bridge, iv. 5.
Lambeth Hill, ii. 36.
Lambeth, old ferry to Westminster, iii.

29S.
Lambeth Palace, vi. 42S ; GlanviUe,
Bishop of Rochester ; exchanged
with Archbishop Walter of Canter-
bury, //'. ; Palace rebuilt, ib. ;
prison for Royalists, 429 ; great
gateway, outer court, ib. : great
hall, 430 ; hospitality of Cranmer
and Parker ; library founded by
Bancroft, ib. ; books and MSS.,
431 : librarians, 432 ; guard-chamber,
433; chapel ; "post-room," 434;
crypt, 435 ; Lollards' Tower ;
archbishop's residence ; presence-
chamber ; gardens and grounds, ;/'.,•
fig-trees, 436 ; Bishops' Walk ;

historical notes ; convocation in
1466 ; royal visits ; dissolution ot
Anne Boleyn's marriage, ib. ; the
"Bishops' Book," 438; "Lambeth
Articles, ib. ; banquets, 440 ; aixh-
bishop's dole ; Archbishop Laud,
ib. ; Sheldon's translation, 441 ;
Gordon riots, 442 ; Pan-Anglican
Synod ; Arches Court ; annual visit
of Stationers' Company, ib. ; state
barge ; Lambeth degrees, 443.

Lambeth Waterworks Company, vi.
407.

Lamps, Street, v. 135 ; vi. 368.

Lancaster, Duchy of, iii. 9, 96.

Lancaster Gate, v. 186.

Lancaster, Joseph ; the "monitorial"
school system, vi. 365.

Lancaster Place, Strand, iii. 286.

Z<7«(V/ Newspaper, iii. 121.

Landon, Miss, i. 172 ; iv. 412 ; v. 99.

Landor, Walter Savage, his contribu-
tions to the London Alagazine, i. 65.

Landseer, Sir Edward, R.A., v. 24S.

Landseer, Thomas, v. 248.

Laneham at St. Anthony's School, i.
537 ; bear-baiting at Kenilworth
Castle, vi. 52.

Langham Place ; Sir James Langham ;
Langham Hotel, iv. 452 ; St.
George's Hall ; German Fair, 453.

Langhorne, Rev. John, ii. 552.

Lansdowne House, iv. 329 ; Marquesses
of Lansdowne ; Lansdowne SiSS. ;
antique marbles ; pictures, ib.

Lant family ; Lant Street, Southwark,
vi. 60, 61.

Larwood on " Signs and Sign-boards."
{See Signs.)

"Last Dying Speeches" of criminals,
iii. 203.

Latimer imprisoned in the Tower, ii.
70, 103.

Latymer Schools, Hammersmith ; Ed-
ward Latymer, vi. 538.

Laud, Archbishop, ii. 75, 95, loS, 566 ;
iv. 21 ; vi. 434,440,537.

Lauderdale House, Aldersgate Street,
ii. 221.

Lauderdale House, Highgate, v. 395,
396 ; as a Convalescent Home, 396 ;
presented to the London County
Council, 396 ; its associations, 396
-398.

Laundresses in Moorfields, ii. 196.

Laurence, William, monumental tablet ;

Cloisters, Westminster, iii. 456.
Laurie, Sir Peter, Lord Mayor, i. 413;

V. 269.
LawCourtsand Lawyers in Westminster

Hall ; Lydgate, iii. 543.
Law Courts at the Royal Palace, West-
minster ; in Westminster Hall, iii.
543. 544. 560. 561, 562.
Law Courts ; Early Courts, iii. 15 ;
their concentration at Westminster ;
the new Law Courts. 16, S3 : selec-
tion of Mr. G. E. Street, R.A., as
architect, 17; completion and open-
ing, 18.

Law Institution, Chancery Lane, i. 90.

Law, John, the Mississippi scheme, iv.

543-

Lawrence Lane ; Church of St. Law-
rence ; " Blossoms " Inn, i. 376.

Lawrence, .Sir John, Lord JIayor, i.
405, 416; ii. 154.

Lawrence, Sir Thomas, P.R.A., iii.
14S, 195 ; iv. 250, 566.

6o8

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

Lawson, printer of tlie Times, i. 214.

Lawyers satirised by Lydgate, iii. 543 ;
by Peter the Great, 544.

Laxton, Sir William, LordMayor,!. 555.

Lavard, A. H., Assyrian Exploration,
'iv. 531, 534.

Laycoclx's Dairy, ii. 263.

Lazar-houses, v. 23, 27, 3S2, 3S3, 3S4,
3S6, 528.

Lea, River, v. 545 ; its course ; former
commercial importance ; Leymouthe
ascended by the Danes ; invaders
defeated ; Lea Bridge, ib. ; com
and paper mills, 546 ; angling ;
Izaak Walton, ih. ; Lea Bridge ; the
"Jolly Anglers," 548.

Leach, Sir John, Master of the Rolls,
i. 80.

Leadenhall Market, ii. 188 ; mansion
converted into a granary ; chapel ;
wool and meal market, t/i. ; meat
and leather market ; Church of St.
Catherine Cree, 189.

Leadenhall Street, ii. 183-187 ; East
India House ; " Two Fans ; " Mot-
teux's India House, 188 ; Roman
pavement, 191.

Leake, Colonel, iv. 431.

Leather Lane, ii. 544.

Leather trade, Bermondsey, vi. 123.

Leathersellers' Company and Hall, ii.
160 ; .School at Levvisham, vi. 246.

Lee Boo, Prince, vi. 136.

Lee, Kent, vi. 243 ; Church and monu-
ments, 244 ; almshouses ; Dacre
House ; Lady Dacre ; the Green ;
the stocks ; villas ; churches, id.

Lee, Messrs. ; nursery garden, Ham-
mersmith, vi. 533.

Lee, Nat, iii. 1 1 ; vi. 62.

Lee, Sir Henry, of Ditchley, iii. 364.

Lee, William, inventor of the stocking-
loom, ii. 238.

Leech, John, i. 57, 58, 22S ; ii. 402,
404 ; iv. 280, 563.

"Leg (or League) and Seven Stars,"
iii. 26.

"Legate's Tower," Baynard's Castle,
i. 285.

Leicester, Dudley, Earl of, constable
of the Temple Revels, i. 159.

Leicester Square, iii. 160 ; " Leicester
Fields ; " French emigrants ; statue
of George I.; duels, 161, 162;
Leicester House, 164 ; Sir Ashton
Lever's Museum, 165 ; house of
Sir Joshua Reynolds, 166 ; Pan-
orama of Bal.iclava, //;. ; Sir
Thomas Lawrence ; Sir Charles
Bell, 167 ; Hogarth ; " Sablonniure
Hotel;" Tenison's school and
library ; Pic-nic Club, i/>. ; John
Hunter'smuscum, 168; Panopticon;
Alhambra Palace Theatre, tt). ; C.
Dibilin's Sans Souci, 170; the
" Feathers;" Burford's Panoramas ;
Wyld's " Great Globe," ib. ; neglect
of the enclosure, 171 ; mutilations
of the statue ; litigation ; Albert
Grant ; garden ; statuary ; fountain,
^i. ; foreigners, 1 72.

Leighton, Archbishop, ii. 440.

Leighton, Sir Frederick, iii. 148.

L. E. L. {Sfc Landon, Miss.)

Lcly, Sir Peter, iii. 242, 254, 256 ; vi.

«93-
Lcman, Sir John, Lord Mayor ; show ;
drawing at Fishmongers' Hall, i.
321 ; ii. 8.

Lemon, Mark, i. 57, 58 ; iv. 456.

" Le Neve " Inn, Thames .Street, i. 302.

Le Neve, Peter, Norroy ; the Paston

letters, i. 29S.
Le Neve, Sir William, Clarencieux, i.

29S.
Le rvotre, iv. 50 ; v. 153, 569 ; vi. 207.
Lennox, Countess of, imprisoned in the

Tower, ii. 70.
Lennox, Lady Caroline ; elopement

with Henry Fox, v. 170.
Lennox, Lady Sarah, and George III.,

V. 164, 170.
Leopold I., King of the Belgians, iv.

94, 133 ; V. 203.
" Lepel, The fair" (Lady Hervey), iv.

170, 176.
Lepers' Hospitals, iii. 197 ; v. 23, 527 ;

vi. 70.
Le Serre ; St. James's Park, iv. 51.
Le Sceur, Hubert; statue of Charles I.,

iii. 125.
Lettsom, Dr. John, vi. 279.
Lever, Sir Ashton, iii. 177 ; vi. 3S2.
Levett, apothecary, i. 98, 191.
Levy, Mr., and the i>aily Telep-aph,

i. 60.
Lewes, Priors of ; residence in Ber-
mondsey; ancient crypt, vi. 104, 105.
Lewis, M. G. ("Monk') v. 147.
Lewisham, vi. 244 ; etymology ; the

Ravensbourne, 245 ; Granville Park ;

parish church ; interments ; St. Ste-
phen's Church ; St. Mark's Church ;

descent of the manor ; priory ;

Priory Farm ; Admiral Legge ;

Viscount Lewisham, ib. ; schools

and almshouses, 246 ; Ladywell ;

railway station ; Deptford and

Lewisham Cemetery ; St. John's

Church, ib.
Lewknor's Lane, St. Giles's ; Sir Lewis

Lewknor ; Jonathan Wild, iii. 20S.
Lewson, Lady, her eccentricities, ii.

300.
Licensed Victuallers' Asylum, vi. 249.
Licensed Victuallers' School, vi. 340.
Lichfield House, St. James's .Square,

iv. 189.
Lich-gate, St. Giles' s-in-lhe-Fields, iii.

202.
Lieutenancy of the City, i. 442.
Lieven, Prince, iv. 372.
Life Assurance carried on by the

Mercers' Company, i. 379.
Life Guards. (See Guards, Horse and

Foot.)
Lightfoot, Hannah, iv. 207 ; v. 27,

477 ; vi. 2S9.
Ligonier, Edward, Viscount, iii. 447 ;

iv. 178, 344.
Lightning conductors, i. 106, 256.
Lightning, Death by, iv. 478.
Lilburne, Jolni, ii. 405 ; vi. 243.
Lillie Bridge, vi. 526.
Lillo, George, vi. 1 38, 281.
Lilly, William, .astrologer, i. 12S, 129;

iii. 45, 526.
Lillywhite, cricketer, v. 408.
Lime (jrove. Putney, vi. 494.
Lime Street ; sale of lime, ii. 1S8.
Linacre, Dr., his house, Blackfriars ;

College of Physicians, i. 303 ; iii.

U3-
Lincoln Court, Drury L.ine, iii. 40.
Linciilne John ; " Evil May Day " riot,

i. 3'0— 314-
Lincoln's Inn, iii. 51 ; " limsof Court ;"
Fortescue ; "Revels,";/'.; costume,

52 ; beards of students ; " moots ;"
Earl of Lincoln, ib. ; old hall, 53 :
chapel, 54 ; crypt, 56 ; new hall
and library ; Stone Buildings ; New
Square ; Gardens, ib. ; early his-
tory, 57 ; Bishops of Chichester ;
legal education, ib. ; Society oi
Lincoln's Inn, 58 ; readers, ib.

Lincoln's Inn Fields, iii. 44 ; formation
of the Square : its dimensions ; de-
signs of Inigo Jones ; houses erected
by him, ib. : noble families, 45 ;
infested by thieves and beggars,
"mumpers " and "rufflers ;" .Square
railed in ; execution of Lord Wil-
liam Russell, ;■/'.; College of Sur-
geons, 46 ; Sardinian Chapel ;
Newcastle House, 47 ; Soane Mu-
seum, 48.

" Lincoln's Inn Theatre," iii. 27.

Lindsay House, Old Palace Yard, iii.
. .S63.

Lindsey House, Lincoln's Inn Fields,
iii. 47.

Lindsey Place and Row, Chelsea, v.

. 53-
Lindsey, Theophilus, Unitarian minis-
ter, iii. 69.
Link-boys and Link-extinguishers, iv.

327, 339, 445, 549-
Linley, Francis, blind organist, ii. 286.
Linnrean Society, iii. 180, 191 ; iv.

267, 270.
Lintot, Bernard, i. 44.
Linwood, Miss, iii. 165 ; iv. 318.
" Lion .and Castle " Inn, Bermondsey,

vi. 130.
Lion's Head, at " Button's Coffee

Flouse," iii. 277.
Lisson Grove ; Lisson Green, v. 257.
Liston, John, comedian, v. 6.
Liston, Robert, surgeon, iv. 303.
Literary Club; Dr. Johnson, iii. 178.
Literary Society, The ; Willis's Rooms,

iii. 179.
Literature, Royal Society of, iii. 154.
Litlington, Abbot, iv. 2.
Little Britain ; Earls of Brittany ;

bookstalls, ii. 223, 435.
Little Chelsea, v. 88.
Little Cockpit Yard, iv. 55'-
Little College Street, Westminster, for-
merly " Piper's Ground," iv. 2.
Little Dean Street, Westminster, iv. 36.
Little James Street, Westminster, iv.

22.
Little, John, miser, v. 321.
Little Holland House ; Mrs. Inchbald ;

Miss Fox, V. 177.
" Little Man's " CofTe'e House, iii.

334-
Little Park Street, Westminster ; "The

Three Johns," iv. 44.
Little Tower Street ; James Thomson,

poet, ii. 99.
Little Trinity Lane, ii. 37.
Little Vine Street, iv. 253.
Liverpool, Earl of, iii. 336, 532.
Liverpool .Street, Finsbury, ii. 207.
Liverpool .Street, King's Cross ; King's

Cross Theatre, iv. 576.
" Living .Skeleton," iv. 257.
Livingstone, David, iii. 418.
Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, ii. loi, 254.
Lloyd's Alley, St. Giles's, iii. 20".
" Lloyd's ;" historical sketch of, 509^

513-
"Load of I Lay" Tavern, Ilaverstock
Hill, V. 491.

GENERAL INDEX.

609

Local Government Board, iii. 377.
Lock or Lazar Hospitals, v. 14, 215.

527. 528-
Locket's Ordinary, Charing Cross, iv.

So.
Lock's Fields, Walworth, vi. 268.
Loddidge's Nursery, Hackney ; Lod-

didge's Terrace, v. 514.
Lodge, Edmund ; Lancaster Herald, i.

299 ; "'■ 542-
Logography, the Times newspaper

printed by, i. 209, 212.
Lollards, Persecution of the, i. 239,

242 ; ii. 13, 65 ; vi. 23S.
Lollards' Tower, Lambeth Palace, vi.

435.

LoniLiard Street, i. 509 ; Marine As-
surance ; origin ol' "Lloyd's," ib. ;
tlie Lombards, money-lenders and
bankers, 524 ; William de la Pole,
factor to Edward HI.; Gresham's
shop, ib,; Post Office, 525; churches,
527 ; Roman remains, 529, 530.

Lombard Street, Chelsea, v. 66.

Lombard wine merchants, ii. 22.

Lombards; jealousy of; "Evil May
Day," i. 310, 31 1 ; early bankers
and usurers, i. 453.

Londinium, plan of, i. 15.

London and St. Katharine's Docks, ii.
117, 118.

London Artizans' Club and Institute,
IT. 467.

London, Bishops of; London House,
St. James's Square, iv. 1S6 ; vi. 50S.

London Bridge, ii. 9 ; Roman and
Saxon bridges; "Old Moll" the
ferryman's daughter, //'.; wooden
bridge destroyed, 10; stone bridge
built : St. Thomas's Chapel ; heads
of traitors placed on the bridge, ibr,
Brethren of the Bridge, ii. II, 12 ;
Henry V.; triumph and funeral, //'.;
Lydgate, 12, 13, 14; danger of
"shooting'' the bridge, 13; Jack
Cade's and Wyatt's rebellions, 14 ;
Nonsuch House, 15; waterworks;
houses on the bridge ; decay ; re-
pairs ; temporary bridge burnt ;
Smeaton ; new bridge commenced
by Rennie, ib.; traffic, 16 ; earliest
description of a bridge at this spot,
vi. 5 ; first stone bridge erected, 8 ;
built by a tax on wool ; Bridge-
foot, Southwark, ib.; Jack Cade's
rebellion, 9 ; pageants, 10 ; the
Great Fire ; towers, houses, and corn-
mills on the bridge, 1 1 ; booksellers'
shops, 13 ; the new bridge, 15.

London Bridge railway stations, vi. 98.

" London " Coffee House, Ludgate Hill,
i. 227, 228.

London County Council, iv. So.

London Crystal Palace, Oxford Street,
iv. 455.

London Docks, ii. 123, 124; built by
Rennie ; description and statistics by
Henry Mayhew ; tasting-orders ; the
"Queen's pipe," 124, 125.

London Fields, Hackney, v. 507 ; " Cat
and Mutton Fields ; " rights of the
Bishops of London; Ridley Road, ib.

London Fire Brigade, i. 554.

London Gas Company, vi. 467.

London Hospital, ii. 146.

London Institution, i. 428, 429 ; ii. 207

London Journal, \'J'2.\, iv. 347.

London Library, iv. 189.

London Magazine, i. 64, 65.

London Mathematical Society, iv. 290.
London Necropolis Company, vi. 418.
London Orphan Asylum, v. 522.
London School Board, iii. 326.
London Seamen's Hospital, i. 513.
" London Spy," by Ned Ward. See

Ward, Ned.)
London Stone, i. 544.
London Street, Dockhead, vi. 113, 116.
London .Street, Fitzroy Square, iv. 475.
London University, Burlington Gardens,

iv. 304.
London Wall, ii. 16S, 232.
London and Brighton Railway, vi. 99.
London and Greenwich Railway. (See

Greenwich.)
London and North- Western Railway,

V. 347—350-

London and South-Western Railway,
vi. 411, 46S.

London, Chatham, and Dover Railway,
i. 220 ; ii. 501 ; v. 41.

Long Acre, iii. 269 ; original condition ;
" The Elms ; " " The Seven Acres ;"
head-quarters of carriage-builders ;
distinguished residents; St. Martin's
Hall, lb. : " Queen's Theatre," 270 ;
Merryweather's fire-engine manufac-
tory, ib.

Longbeard's rebellion, i. 309, 310.

Long Fields, Bloomsbury, iv. 4S2, 564.

Longman and Co., publishers, i. 274,

27s; ii- 435-

Long Lane, Smithfield, ii. 363.

Longevity. [See Centenarians.)

" Long Southwark," vi. 17.

Long Walk, Bermondsey, vi. 120.

Lord Mayor's Banqueting House, Ox-
ford Street, iv. 406, 43S.

Lord Mayors of London, i. 396 — 416 ;
title of "Lord,"i. 398; election,
duties, and privileges, i. 437 ; v.
150; costume and insignia, i. 443,
446 ; Lord Mayors' Shows, by land
and water, 3I7~332 ; iii. 3°9-

Lord Mayor's State Barge, i. 447.

Lord's Cricket Ground ; game of
cricket ; its history ; Marylebone
Club, v. 249.

Lordship Lane, Dulwich ; "Plough"
Inn, vi. 292.

Lothbury ; foundry and metal workers,
i. 513; St. Margaret's Church; con-
duit, 514,

Lotteries, State, i. 245, 346, 379 ; ii.
238, 489. 537> 53a; iii. 165; iv.
292.

Loudon and Wise ; gardens of Ken-
sington Palace, v. 152.

Loudon, gardener (169S), vi. 155, 467.

Lough, J. G., sculptor, v. 260.

Louis Philippe, iv, 422.

Louis XVIII., iv. 344, 422.

Loutherbourg, Philip James, iv. 461 ;

vi. 545-

Lovat, Simon, Lord, ii. 76, 95 ; iii.
551 ; iv. 469.

Lovel Family ; the gi-eat Lord Lovel,
vi. 134.

Lovelace, Richard, i. 126; iii. 4SS.

Love Lane, Cheapside, i. 374.

Love Lane, Eastcheap. i. 563.

" Love-locks," iv. 383.

Lover's Walk, iv. 442.

Loving cup, iii. 56S.

Lowe, Rt. Hon. Robert, M.P., v. 13.

Lowe, Tommy, proprietor of Maryle-
bone Gardens, iv. 435.

Lower Belgrave Street, v. II.

Lower Grosvenor Street, iv. 341.

Lower Seymour Street ; charitable
institutions, iv. 423.

I.owndes Square, v. 13, 20, 21.

Lowthcr Arcade, iii. 132.

Ludgale Hill, i. 220 ; railway bridge ;
"Belle .Sauvage " inn, ib. ; plays
acted there, 221 ; Banks, the show-
man ; Grinling Gibbons ; William
Hone ; Wyat's rebellion, 224 ; St.
Martin's Court, 226 ; Roman re-
mains ; St. Martin's Church, ;/'.;
"London" Coffee House, 227 ; shop
of Rundell and Bridge, 22S ; Sta-
tioners' Hall and Company, 229 —
233 ; Almanack day, 230 ; feast of
St. Cecilia, 231 ; Dryden's odes ;
funerals and banquets, ib.

Lud Gate, history of, i. 221, 223 — 226.

Lully, Raymond, ii. 117.

Lumber Troop, i. 114, 116.

Lunardi, iii. 321 ; iv. 245.

Lupus Street, v. 41.

Lushington, Dr., Dean of Arches, i.
292.

Lutherans, Persecution of, i. 243.

Luttrell, Colonel, iv. 173; v. 26.

Lyceum Theatre, iii. 117 ; exhibitions;
Sir R. K. Porter's pictures ; theatre
burnt down ; English operas ;
"Beefsteak club," ib.

Lyell, Sir Charles, iv. 449.

Lydekker, Captain, i. 513.

Lydgate's poems, i. 308 ; ii. 12, 13, 14 ;
his " London Lickpenny," iii. 543 ;
vi. 9.

Lying Clubs; "lying for the whet-
stone," vi. 510.

Lying-in Hospital, Queen Charlotte's,
V. 255.

Lyndhurst, Lord, iv. 322 ; v. 407.

Lyons Inn, iii. 35.

Lyric Hall, iv. 456.

Lyttelton, George, Lord, iv. 243.

Lyttleton, Chief Justice, iii. 22.

Lyttleton, Sir Thomas, iii. 80.

Lytton, Lord, iv. 279.

Lyveden, Lord, iv. 310.

M.

"Macao;" gambling at Watier's, iv.
284.

Macaronis, v. 158.

Macaulay, Lord, i. 213 ; iii. 530; iv.
167, 218, 351, 495, 519, 538, 562,
563 ; V. 14, 50, 128, 133, 143,172;
vi. 321. 323. 325. 425 ; VI. 576.

Macclesfield, Anne, Countess ol,ii. 552.

Macclesfield Street, Soho, iii. 179.

Macdonald, George, ii. 274.

Mace, the Speaker's ; House of Com-
mons, iii. 513.

Maces of the Lord Mayor, i. 446.

McGhee, Charles, the black crossing-
sweeper, i. 68.

Machealh, Captain, ii. 527.

Mackay, Chas., LL.D., i. 539 ; iii. 2S7,
29S ; vi. 27, 142, 159, 167, 182.

Mackintosh, Sir James, iii. 530 ; iv.
453 ; V. 4S2.

Macklin, Charles ; comedian and cen-
tenarian, i. 61; ii. 291; iii. 221,
230, 260, 272.

M.acready, W. C, iii. 221, 233.

Maddox Street, Museum of Building
Applkances, iv. 322.

M.agdalen Hospital, vi. 31S, 348.

6:c

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

Magee, Rev. Dr., Bishop of Peter-
borough, iv. 405.
Magic Lantern, Marylebone Gardens,

iv. 436.
Maginn, Dr., i. 58; iv. 251.

Magna Cliarta, iv. 514.
" Magpie and Stump," Newgate Street,
ii. 436.

Mahoney (" Father Prout "), iv. 251.
" Maid of Kent," v. 189.

Maida Vale ; battle of Maida, v. 243.

Maiden Lane, Battle Bridge, ii. 276.

Maiden Lane, Covent Garden, iii. 119,
267; " Bedford Head," old Welsh
ale house ; Marvell ; Voltaire :
Turner ; " Shilling Rubber Club ; "
Hogarth and Churchill, //'.; Catholic
Church, 268; "Cider Cellars;"
origin of its name, ib.

Maiden Lane, King's Cross, formerly
Longwich Lane, v. 372 ; now York
Road and Brecknock Road, 373.

Maiden Lane, Wood Street ; churches ;
Haberdashers' Hall, i. 371.

Mail coaches, annual procession of, ii.
2 to ; iv. 260.

Mail-coach robbery. Pall Mall, iv. 137.

Main drainage system, ii. 423 ; iii. 324 ;
V. 41 ; vi. 572.

Maitland, Dr. Samuel, vi. 430.

Malibran, Madame, iii. 221.

" Mall, The," St. James's Park, iv. 50,
51 ; the game so called ; " mailes,"
iv. 74 ; "Pall Mall' implements, 75.

Mallet, D.ivid, vi. 494.

Malt factors and maltsters, ii. 182.

Manchester Buildings, Cannon Row,
iii. 381.

Manchester House. [See Manchester
Square.)

Manchester Square, iv. 423, 424 ; Duke
of Manchester ; Manchester House ;
Marquis of Hertford ; George IV.
and the Marchioness ; Spanish Em-
bassy ; Sir Richard Wallace ; Theo-
dore Hook ; William Beckford, 324.

Manchester Street ; Joanna Southcote ;
Hewlett's Hotel ; Lady Tichborne,
iv. 425.

" Man in the Moon " Tavern, iv. 253.

Mann, Sir Horace ; the " Cock Lane
Ghost," ii. 437.

Manning, Cardinal, iv. 9.

Mannings, Execution of the, vi. 254.

"Mann's" Coffee-house, iii. 334.

Manny, .Sir Walter de, ii. 381.

Mansel, Dean, i. 237, 254.

Mansfield, Earl of, i. 176 ; iv. 452,
541, 544 ; V. 441—443. 542 ; his
house attacked by the Gordon
rioters, iv. 539 ; v. 443 ; vi. 346.

Mansfield Street, iv. 44S.

Mansion House; described, i. 436;
Egyptian Hall ; works of art ; the
kitchen, 437 ; Lord Mayor's house-
hold and expenditure ; cost of the
building, 443.

"Mansion House," old, Highgate, v.
410.

Mansion House Station, v. 231.

Manton, Joe, iv. 335.

Mapp, Mrs., bone-setter, vi. 248.

Marble Arch, iv. 405 .

Marching Watch, i. 331, 338, 380.

M.are .Street, Hackney, v. 513.

Margaret of Anjou, i. 316.

Margaret Street, Cavendish .Square, iv.
459, 460 ; Lady Margaret Caven-
dish ; Rev. David Williams ; Camp-

bell ; Belzoni and Bergami ; West
London Synagogue ; All Saints'
Church ; the " Sisterhood," ib.

Maria V'/ood, the Lord Mayor's state
barge, i. 447 ; iii. 309.

Marie de Medici, mother of Queen
Henrietta Maria, i. 304 ; iv. 107.

Marine Assurance, " Lloyd's," i. 509 —

513-
"Marine-store " dealers, vi. 163.
Marionettes, iv. 346.
Markets of London, iii. 41.
Mark Lane ; Allhallows Staining

Church ; Corn Exchange, ii. 179.
Market-gardens, v. 179, 212 ; vi. 136,

478, 533-
Marlborough Club, iv. 150. 164.
Marlborough House, Pall Mall, iv. 129

—133-

Marlborough House, Peckham, vi. 287
129—133.

Marlborough, John, Duke of, iv. 26,
117; V. 145.

Mailborough, Sarah, Duchess of, i. 38,
176, 461.

MarJDorough .Square, Chelsea, v. S8.

Marlowe, Christopher, vi. 160.

Marochetti, Baron, iii. 567.

Marriages : in Mayfair, ii. 347 ; Mar-
riage Act, 349 ; irregular, in the
Fleet Prison, and its rules, 410 —
412 ; in Mayfair, iv. 347 ; at
Knightsbridge, v. 23 ; at Hamp-
stead Wells, 470 ; m the Mint,
Southwark, vi. 62 ; banns pro-
claimed in market-places, ii. 506 ;
St. George's Church, Hanover
Square, iv. 321 ; re-marriage in
Bermondsey Church, vi. 121 ; mar-
riage by civil magistrates, 446.

" Marrowbones and Cleavers," iv. 322.

Marshall, Sir Chapman, Lord Mayor,
i. 414.

Marshall's " Peristrophic " Panorama,
iv. 82.

Marshall Street, Golden Square, iv. 239.

Marshalsea, or Palace Court, residence
of the attorneys, i. 92.

Marshalsea Prison, vi. 73 ; jurisdiction ;
abuses ; Bishop Bonner ; Colonel
Culpeper ; described by Dickens, 74.

Marsham Street, Westminster, iv. 4.

Martin, John, painter ; his plans for
public improvements, iv. 401 ; v.
86, 257.

Martin, Samuel ; duel with Wilkes, iv.

389.

Martyrs burnt in Smithfield, ii. 339, 351.

Marvell, Andrew, iii. 64, 125, 267,
350 ; V. 39S, 399.

Mary of Modena, Queen of James H.,
iv. 5, no ; vi. 447.

Mary, Queen, iii. 404, 440 ; vi. 167,170.

Mary Queen of Scots, i. 521 ; iii. 43S.

Mary, Queen of William IIL, iii. 446;
V. 141, 142, 143, 144; vi. 176,439.

Marylebone, iv. 42S ; etymology ; a
country village; present population;
extent ; manor and owners ; Duke
of Portland ; F.arl of Oxford and
Mortimer; L.ady Harley; names of
streets derived from owners, ib. ;
old parish church, 429 ; manor
house ; high street ; Fountayne's
academy, ib.; new church, double
gallery, and altar-piece by West,
430 ; " Farthing Pie House," 433 ;
" Marylebone Basin," 434 ; "Cock-
ney Ladle ;" Long's Bowling Green,

ib. ; Harley Fields, 440 ; the parish
and its associations, v. 254 — 262 ;
Marylebone Gardens, iv. 431 j
Charles Bannister; Dibdin, ('ii.; fetes
and fireworks, 432 ; bowling-alleys;
Gay ; Sheffield, Duke of Bucking-
ham, ib. ; " Consort of Musick,"
434; Handel; Dr. Arne; robberies;
balloons ; fireworks ; Miss Trusler's
cakes, zb.; gambling, 435 ; highway-
men, 436 ; tea-drmking ; lectures
on Shakespeare and mimicry, ib.

Marylebone ; old and new court-
houses, iv. 431, 437.

Marylebone Road, iv. 431 ; charitable
institutions ; workhouse ; Cripples'
Home ; Hospital for Women ;
Western Dispensary ; Association
for Improvement of Dwellings ;
Police Court, ib,

Marylebone Theatre, v. 259.

Marylebone Waterworks, iv. 456.

A/ary J\osl\ vi. 146.

Masham, Lady, iv. 309.

Maskelyne and Cooke, iv. 25S.

Maskelyne, Dr., vi. 215.

Masonic Avenue, ii. 238.

Masons' Hall, ii. 237.

Masons' Hall Tavern, ii. 238.

Masons' yards, Huston Road, v. 303.

Masques and Masquerades, i. 160 ; ii.
521, 557; iii. 51, 339, 342; iv.
210 ; v. 78 ; vi. 166, 167.

Massinger, Philip, vi. 27.

Mass-houses, iii. 218.

" Master of the Revels ; " licences
granted by him, iii. 344.

" Matfellon, St. Mary," Whitechapel ;
origin of the name, ii. 143.

Mathew, Rev. H., iv. 469, 472.

Mathews, Charles, the elder, iii. 132,
263 ; iv. 339 ; V. 410.

Mathews, Charles, the younger, iii. 233.

Mathison, John ; bank forgeries, i. 464.

Matilda, Queen, iii. 197.

Mat o' the Mint," vi. 62.

Mattheson's lessons for the harpsichord,
i. 269.

" Maunday " money, iii. 36S.

Maurice, Rev. F. D. ; Working Men's
College, iv. 560 ; v. 40S.

May-Day celebrations, iv. 100 ; v. 223 ;
vi. 2o5. (See Maypole.)

May Fair, iv. 2S5 ; the ancient fair ;
its suppression ; Pepys, 345 ; booths,
346; riot; puppet-shows; " Tiddy
Dol,":/'. ; May Fair Chapel ; secret
marri.-tges ; Marriage Act, 349.

Mayhew, Henry, i. 57, 58 ; statistics of
Billingsgate Market, ii. 43, 45, 46 ;
of St. Katherine's Docks, ii. 119;
London Docks, ii. 124; Rosemary
Lane, ii. 144 ; watercress sellers, ii.
500.

Mayhews Horace, i. 57, 58.

"^lay meetings;" Exeter Hall, iii. 118.

-Maypole at St. Andrew Undershaft, ii,
191 ; denounced and destroyed, 192.

Maypole, The Strand ; account of its
erection, iii. 86 ; Maypole .\llcy, 8S.

Maypoles : West Green, Hampstead,
v. 503 ; Kensington Green, remain-
ing till 1795, vi. 340.

Mazarine Bible, vi. 429.

Mazarine, Duchess of, v. 53, 126.

iMaze Hill, Greenwich, vi. 230.

Maze Pond, Bermondsey ; the Maze,
vi. 104.

" Maze," Tothill Fields, iv. 15.

GENERAL INDEX.

6it

Mead, Dr. Richard, ii. 142, 160, 433 ;
iv. 560 ; V. S3.

Meadows, Kenny, i. 57.

Me.irs, Richard, publisher, i. 269.

Meat Market, Leadcnhall, ii. 1S9.

Meat Market, Metropohtan, ii. 491 ;
its liistory ; railway system ; supply
of dead meat ; Newgate Market,
;7'. ; New Market and Underground
Railway Station, 493 ; opening
ceremony, 494 ; tolls and rentals,
495 ; game ; quails' and plovers'
eggs, 496.

Mechanical automata, E.xhibition of,
iv. 421.

Mecklenburgh .Square, iv. 563.

Medical and Chirurgical Society, iv.
465.

Medical Men, Society for Relief of
Widows and Orphans of, iv. 465.

Medici, Marie de, i. 304 ; iv. 107.

Melbourne House ; the Albany, iv. 258.

Melbourne, Lord, iii. 3S7, 3SS ; v. 149,
151.

Mellitus, first Bishop of London, i.
236.

Mellon, Harriett {Scv St. Alban's,
Harriet, Duchess of. )

Melons, iii. 77.

Melvill, Rev. Henry, vi. 274.

Melville, Lord, tri.ai of, iii. 531, 554.

Memorial Hall, Farringdon St., ii. 416.

** Memory Thompson," v. 501.

Menageries, ii. SS ; iii. ii5, 315; v.
196, 305, 569 ; vi. 226.

Mennes, Sir John, ii. Ill, 112.

Mercer Street, Long Acre, i. 377.

Mercers' Company and Hall, i. 376,
525 ; the "Mercery," 377 ; Mercers'
jealousy of the Lombards ; Thomas
A'Becket ; Whiltington ; grants to
the Comjiany ; Mercers' Hospital,
i7'. ; loans to King and Parliament,
379 ; life assurance ; financial diffi-
culties ; lottery, i/i. : hall and chapel,
3S0 ; charities ; school, 3S1 ; dis-
tinguished " mercers, "382; costume
of mercers, 38"^.

Mercers' School, College Hill ; eminent
scholars, ii. 26.

"Mercery" in Cheapside, i. 372.

Merchant Adventurers, i. 453.

Merchant Taylors' Company and Hall,
i. 531 ; " Linen Armourers ;"
charters ; dispute ^\ith the Skinners,
li.: ii. 4; Stow's "Annals," pre-
sented by him to the Company, i.
532 ; Speed ; the Plague ; James L ;
Dr. Bull ; old customs ; charities,
ii>. ; armoury, 533 ; civil war ;
school ; livery hoods ; searching
and measuring cloth, ii.; Old Hall ;
Basing Lane ; present Hall and
Almshouses, 534 ; Arms of the
Company, 536 ; Henry VIL en-
rolled ; march of the Archers, I'i. ;
almshouses, Lee, vi. 244.

Merchant Taylors' School, i. 533 ;
" INLanor of the Rose;" Pulteney's
Hill ; site and statutes of the school ;
scholarships ; Great Fire ; eminent
scholars, ii. 29.

Merchants of the Staple, i. 453.

Merlin, Prophecy of, ii. loi.

Mermaids, vi. 195, 276.

" Mermaid " Tavern, Cheapside, i. 35 1 ;
Raleigh ; iNIermaid Club ; Ben Jon-
son ; .Shakespeare, i/i.

"Mermaid" Tavern, Hackney, v. 51S.

Merryvvcathcr's fire-engine factory, iii.

270.
Meteorological Department, iv. 26S.
Metliodist preachers in Newgate, ii.

447-

Methodists' Tabernacle, Finsbury, ii.
1 98.

Metropolitan and Metropolitan District
Rail\\'ays, ii. 122 ; iii. 131, 323,
325, 327 ; Charles Pearson ; oppo-
sition to the plan, v. 224 ; construc-
tion, 225 ; irruption of the Fleet
Ditch ; opening and success, ii. ;
Inner and Outer Circles, 226 ; statis-
tics ; line and stations, ib. ; signals
and ventilation, 230 ; workmen's
trains, 232.

Metropolitan Board of Works, iv. 79.

Metropolitan Meat Market. (See Meat
Market.)

Metropolitan Police, iii. 333.

Metropolitan Tabernacle, vi. 258.

Meux and Co.'s brew house, iv. 485.

"Mews," Royal, Charing Cross, iii.
129.

Meyrick, Sir S. Rush, ii. 83 ; v. 108.

Middle Circle Railway, v. 161.

Middle Exchange, Strand, iii. loi.

Middle Park, Eltham ; Blenkiron's
racing stud, vi. 242.

Middle Row, Holborn, ii. 537.

Middle Scotland Yard ; United Service
Museum, iii. 335.

Middlesex Hospital, iv. 459, 465; cancer
wards ; Samuel Whitehead ; French
refugees ; Lord Robert .Seymour ;
Sir Charles Bell, 466.

Middleton, Sir Thomas, Lord Mayor,
i. 404.

Midlantl Railway, v. 368 ; St. Pancras
Terminus ; demolition of St. Pan-
cras Clmrchyard ; Agar Town, il>. ;
underground works, 369 ; Terminus,
Hotel, and Station ; goods station,

370, 371-
Midsummer Marching \\.atch, i. 331,

33S.
Milborne, Sir John, Lord Mayor ;

Drapers' Almshouses, ii. 250.
Mildmay House and Mildmay Park,

Stoke Newington, v. 531.
" Miles's Music House," afterwards

Sadler's Wells Theatre, iii. 42.
Miles's pair-horse coach ; " Miles's

Boy," V. 2o5.
"Milestone, Old," City Road, ii. 227.
Milford L.ane, iii. 7°.
"Milk Fair," St. James's Park, iv. 76.
"Milkmaids on May Day," picture at

Vauxhall Gardens, vi. 460.
Milk Street, i. 374 ; City of London

School, 375 ; Church of St. Mary

Magdalene, ii.
Mill, James, v. 128.
Mill, John Stuart, iii. 531.
Mill Lane, Tooley Street, vi. 106.
" Mill-sixpences," ii. 104.
Mill Street, Conduit Street, iv. 322.
Mill Street, Dockhecvd, vi. 116.
Millar, Andrew, iii. 80, 286 ; v. 59, 86.
MiUbank Prison ; Jeremy Bentham ;

prison discipline, iv. S.
Millbank, Westminster, iv. 2, 3.
Miller, Joe, author of the "Jest Book,"

iii. 29, 41 ; vi. 58, 555.
Miller, Rev. James, his play, T/ie

CoffcL-house, i. 44.
Milliners ; Milliners' shops and stalls,

i. 373 ; iii. 104, 172, 542.

"Million Gardens" (Melon Gardens),

Westminster, iv. 12.
Mill Pond, Rotherhithe, vi. 135.
Millman Street ; Chevalier D'Eon, iv,

551-

Milman, Dean, i. 252; iii. 179.

Mills, Dr. Jeremiah, President of the
Society of Antiquarians, i. 527.

Milner, Dr., his school at Peckham ;
Goldsmith, vi. 239.

Milton, John, i. 49. 274, 338, 350 ; ii.
219, 220, 225, 268 ; iii. 50. 330, 42S,
574; iv. 22, 53, 78, 166, 172, 230,
549 ; V. 167, 382, 399, 514 ; vi. 54S.

Milton .Street, formerly Grub Street, ii.
240 ; Pope's Grub .Street poets ;
bowyers and fietchers ; Grub Street
Society, 241; "General Monk's
house," 242.

"Mince-pie House," Blackheath, vi.
230.

Minchenden House, Southgate, v. 569.

Mincing Lane, ii. 177 ; Genoese
traders, or " gallymen ;" "galley
halfpence ;" Great Fire ; Pepys ;
Clothworkers' Hall, /;''.

Minories, ii. 249 ; Abbey of St. Clare,
ii. ; Holy Trinity Priory ; Lord
Cobham,25o; st.ay-makers ; Thistle-
wood, ii.

Mint of the Saxon period, Bermondsey,
vi. 105.

Mint Street, Southwark, vi. 60 ; the
old mint ; Henry \'HI. ; Edward
Vt. ; Archbishop Heath; the Lant
family ; Lant Street, ii.: protection
from arrests, 61 ; irregular mar-
riages, 62; "Mat o' the Mint;"
Jonathan Wild ; Nahum Tate ;
Nathaniel Lee ; Pope ; Thomas
Miller's description of the " Mint,"
ii. ; Jack Sheppard, 63 ; coiners ;
Asiatic cholera, ;/'.

Mint, The, ii. 100 ; British, Roman,
and Saxon coinage ; Alfred's silver
penny ; dishonest minters, ib. ;
Moneyer's Company, loi ; Comp-
troller of the Mint ; first gold
coinage ; silver groats of Henry V.,
ii. : debasement of the coinage, 102 ;
coins struck by Queen Elizabeth,
104 ; milled money ; Briot ; Simon ;
first copper coins ; tin coinage ;
Queen Anne's farthings ; first gui-
neas ; bullion ; .Spanish silver cap-
tured ; Chinese ransom, //'..■ process
of coining, 105. (&!' Coinage.)

Miracle-plays, ii. 344, 255.

"Mischief, The," Oxford Street, iii.
19S.

Misers, ii. 2S6 ; vi. 352.

Mission College, Blackfriars Road, vi.

Mission Hall, Queen's Square, West-
minster, iv. 42.
Mitre Court Buildings ; Charles Lamb,

i- 135-
"Mitre" Tavern, Fleet Street, i. 51,

54 ; Johnson and Boswell ; Society

of Antiquaries ; Royal Society ;

Poets' CJallery, ii.
" Mitre " Tavern, Wood Street, i. 369.
Moat at P'ulham Pakice, vi. 512.
Model lodging-houses, iv. 4S8 ; George

Peabody, vi. 570.
Mohawks, Mohocks, iii. 243 ; iv. 57,

166, 298.
Mohun, Lord, i. 70; iii. 82, 161, iSo,

278, 551 ; iv. 3S9.

6l2

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

Mohun, Major, comedian, iii. 273.
Molesworth, Lady, burnt to death, iv.

373-

Money Order Office, ii. 212.

Monger's almshouses, Hackney, v. 513.

Monk, General (Earl of Albemarle), ii.
165, 242 ; iii. 87, 104, 122, 422,
440; iv. 108, 378; vi. 71.

Monkwell Street ; Hall of the Barber-
Surgeons, ii. 232 ; Lamb's alms-
houses, 236.

Monmouth Court ; James Catnatch,
printer, iii. 204.

Monmouth, Duke of, ii. 75, 95 ; iii.
174, 1S5, 186.

Monmouth House, Chelsea, v. 93.

Monomaniac in the ball of St. Paul's,
i. 257.

Monsey, Dr., ii. 434 ; v. 71.

■' Monster " Tavern, v. 3, 45.

Montagu, Basil, ii. 402 ; iii. 261.

Montagu, Duke of, iv. 54.

Montagu House ; fields ; duels ; sports ;
"Prisoner's Base," iv. 483. (See
British Museum.)

Montagu House, Greenwich Park, vi.
210.

Montagu House, Whitehall, iii. 377.

Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, i. 71,
72 ; iii. 242, 255 ; iv. 153, 260,
446.

Montagu, Matthew, iv. 418.

Montagu, Mrs., iv. 413 — 418 ; bio-
graphical sketch of ; Blue Stocking
Club; "feather hangings;" Cow-
per's lines ; chimney-sweepers, t/>.

Montagu Square, iv. 312.

Montague Close, Southwark, vi. 28.

Monteagle, Lord ; Gunpowder Plot,
vi. 28.

Montefiore, Abraham, i. 4S4.

Montefiore, Sir Moses, Bart., iv. 372.

Montfichet Castle, Blackfriars, i. 200,
285.

Montlort, Simon de, vi. 9.

Montgomery, Rev. Robert, iv. 472.

Monument, The, i. 566 ; described ;
inscriptions, ili. ; Popish allusions
obliterated, restored, and finally
effaced, 567 ; Gibber's bas-relief ;
illuminations ; suicides, 567, 568,
569 ; Great Fire, 572.

Monument Yard, ii. 8.

" Moon-r.ikers " public-house, Great
Suffolk Street, vi. 63.

Moore, Thomas, i. 275 ; iv. 98, 165,

202,

30. 424;

121, 164,

292, 434 ; vi. 253, 296.

Moore's Almanack, i. 230.

Moorfields, ii. 196 ; p'itzstephen and
.Stow ; primitive skates ; cudgel-
players ; Train-band musters ; laun-
<lresses and bleachers ; wrestling ;
fighting, id.; book-stalls, 197 ; fugi-
tives after the Great Fire ; Artillery
Ground; Carpenters' Ilnll, i/'. ; the
T.abcmacle, igS; old lietlilem Hos-
pital ; St. Luke's Hospital, 200;
vi. 351 ; Peerless Pool, ii. 201 ;
open-air preachers ; carpet-beating,
208.

Moots : in the Temple, i. 180 ; Gray's
Inn, ii. 557; Lincoln's Inn, iii. 35,
52.

Moravian chapels, i. 97, 100 ; v. 94.

Morden College, Blackheath ; Turkey
Company, vi. 236.

More, Hannah, iv. 248.

More, Sir Thomas, i. 315, 537 ; ii. 14,

95, 156, 381, 382, 572; iii. 33, 58,
545 : V. 53—59. SS, 530 ; _vi. 10.

Morison, James; " Morison's Pills,"
v. 367.

Morland, George, ii. 262, 544 ; iv.
472; v. 67, 212, 222, 308, 428; vi.
69, 425.

Morland, Sir Samuel, v. 24 ; vi. 386,
44S, 449, 544.

Moruing Advertiser^ i. 64.

Alorniyig Chronicle, iii. III.

Morning Herald, i. 478.

Morning Post, iii. 1 13.

Mornington, Countess of, iv. 443.

Mornington Crescent, v. 305.

" Morocco men " executed, v. 190.

Morris, Captain, iii. 118 ; vi. 576.

Morris, Peter ; " forcier " at London
Bridge, for water-supply to houses,
v. 237 ; vi. 100.

Mortimer, Roger de, ii. 64; v. 189.

Mortimer Street, iv. 465 ; earldom of
Mortimer, 458 ; Nollekens ; John-
son ; St. Elizabeth's Home, 459.

" Mother Black Cap," Camden Town,
v. 310.

"Mother Red Cap," Camden Town,
V. 302.

Mother Shipton, history of, v. 311.

Mountfort, Will, murdered in defence
of Mrs. Bracegirdle, iii. Si.

Mountmill, Goswell Street ; Plague Pit,
ii. 202.

Mount Street, iv. 335; fort; "The
Mount ' ' Coffee House ; Sterne ;
Martin Van Butchell, ib. : St.
George's Workhouse, 337 ; Wedg-
wood's show-rooms, 338.

Moxhay, Edward, Hall of Commerce,

i- 536.

Mud and dust of London, vi. 572.

Mudie's Circulating Library, iv. 4S9.

" Mug-houses," i. 141, 142, 143.

Mulberry Garden, iv. 62.

Mulberry-trees, ii. 153; iv. 62; v. 67,
88, 459 ; vi. 418.

" Mull Sack " (John Cottington) and
Lady Fairfax, i, 40, 43.

Miiller, Franz, executed at Newgate,
ii. 457-

Mulready, W., R.A., vi. 382.

"Mumpers" of Lincoln's Inn Fields,
iii. 45.

Munday, Anthony, ii. 237, 245.

"Muns.'' members of dissolute clubs,
iv. 57, 166.

Munster, Earl of, v. II.

Munster House, Fulham Ro.ad, vi. 516.

Munster .Square, v. 299.

Mur|)hy, Arthur, v. 2O.

Murray, John, senior and junior, pub-
lishers, i. 46 ; iv. 293, 294.

Murray, Lady Augusta, iv. 29 ; v. 152.

Museums : liuilding Appliances, iv.
322 ; Don Saltero's Coffee-house,
v. 62 ; Indian ; .South Kcnsiirgton, >/'.;
N.atural History, v. 108 ; Guildhall,
i. 392; V. 108 ; " Museum Mincrvrc,"
iii. 268 ; Patent, v. 1 12. (See also
Brilish Museirm.)

Museum Street, iv. 489.

Musgrovc, .Sir John, Lord Mayor ; his
show, i. 41O.

Music and mttsical instrument shops in
St. Paul's Churchyard, i. 268.

Musical clocks ; Christopher Pinch-
beck, i. 53.

Music-halls, statistics, vi. 574.

Music houses, i. 272.

Musvvell Hill, v. 434 ; the "Mits-well;"

Priory of St. John of Jerusalerrr ;

pilgrimages; Alexandra Palace, 435 ;

view from the Palace, 437.
Myatt's Farm, Camberwell ; ctraw-

berries, vi. 279.
Myddelton, Sir Hugh, i. 507 ; v. 237.
Mylne, Robert, architect, i. 205, 254.
Mysteries, ii. 344, 525.

N.

Name of London, its deriv.ation. I. 19.
Names of streets and squares ; their
origin, iv. 407 ; family names, 428,

442. 443> 476.
"Nando's" Coffee-house, Fleet Street,

i. 45-
Napier, Sir Charles, iii. 142.
Napoleon III., iv. 99, 160, 169, 201 ;

V. 22, 112, 119.
Nares, Archdeacon, iv. 5.:j4.
Nares, Capt. Sir George, R.N., vi. 247.
Nash, John, architect, iv. 66, 87, 208,

230, 250, 263, 405, 576, 450.
"Nassau " balloon, vi. 464.
"Nassau" Coffee-house, iv. 242.
Nassau Street, iv. 466.
National Benevolent Irrstitution, iv. 543.
National Columbarian Society, i. 46.
National Dental Hospital, iv. 456.
National Gallery, iii. 145 — 149.
National Liberal Club, iii. 32S.
National Orthopaedic Hospital, iv.

456.
National Peristeronic Society, i. 46.
National Portrait Gallery, iii. 149 ; iv.

33 ; V- 107-
National School Society ; Dr. Bell, vi.

365. 366.
National Society for Education, West-
minster, iv. 34.
National Society ; St. John's College,

Battersea, vi. 472.
National Theatre, Ilolborn, iv. 549.
National Training School for Music, v.

115.
Natural History Museum, South Ken-

.sington, v. loS.
Nautical Almanack, vi. 215.
Naval and Military Club, iv. 285.
Naval Club, Old Royal, iv. 155.
Navy Office, Seething Lane, ii. 100, 112.
Navy, Royal, vi. 146 — 149.
Nazareth House, Hammersmith, vi.

530; the "Little Sisters of the

Poor," 531 ; list of abbesses ;

chapel ; training college, and library,

532-
"Neapolitan Club," iv. 155.
Ncckinger, The ; Bermondscy, vi. 119,

122, 125 ; Ncckinger Road ; Ncck-
inger Mills, 126.
Necromancer's, Prtnishment of, iv. 14.
Nectarines, iv. 567.
"Needham, Mother," iv. 170.
Neele, Henry, ii. 509.
Neild, John Camden, miser', v. 60.
Nelson Cohrmn, Trafalgar Square, iii.

142.
Nelson, Lady, iv. 449.
Nelson, Lord, i. 251, 3S8 ; iii. 385,

386, 389, 447 ; iv. 254, 260, 302,

34°-
Nelson, Robert, author of " Fasts and

Festivals," iv. 554, 556 ; y. 135.
Nelson Square, Blackfriars, vi. 374.
1 Nelson Street, llighgate, v. 412.

GENERAL INDEX.

613

Nerinckx, Rev. J., v. 345.

Nesbitt, Mrs. ; Prince of Wales's
Theatre, iv. 473.

Neville family ; their residences in Upper
Thames Street ; the great Earl of
Warwick, ii. iS, 19.

Newbery, John and Francis, booksellers,
i. 120, 2(36.

New Burlington Street, iv. 311 ; Earl
of Cork ; Lady Cork ; Cocks and
Co., music-publishers, ib. ; Col-
burn, AWc Monthly Magazine, 314 ;
Bentley and Son, BeiitUy's Misal-
lany ; R. H. Barham ; Dickens;
British Medical Benevolent Eund ;■
Archxological Institute, 315.

Newcastle House, Clerkenwell, ii. 329
— 332 ; Duke of Newcastle's me-
moirs, by his wife ; Pepys ; Evelyn ;
Sir Walter Scott, ii.

Newcastle House, Lincoln's Inn Fields,
iii. 47.

Newcastle, John, Duke of, iii. 425.

Newcastle, William, Duke of, iii. 428.

New Cavendish .Street, iv. 45S.

New Compton Street ; Bishop Comp-
ton, iii. 194.

New Cross, vi. 246; " Golden Cross "
Inn ; Royal Naval School ; railway
stations, 247.

New Cut, Waterloo Road ; Sunday
trading, vi. 411.

Newgate, ii. 441 ; fifth principal City
gate ; a prison temfi. King John ;
bequests by Walworth and Whit-
tington ; the gate and its statues ;
John Howard, //'. ; prison burnt in
Gordon riots, 442 ; vi. 347 ; Aker-
man, keeper of the prison, ii. 443 ;
accounts of the burning ; rioters
hanged, 446 ; Methodist preachers,
447; the "Flying Highwayman,"
448 ; Dr. Dodd, 449, 450 ; Gover-
nor Wall, 452 ; Haggarty and
Holloway, 453 ; Cato Street con-
spirators, 454: Fauntleroy, Bishop
and Williams, Greenacre, 455 ;
Miiller, Courvoisier, 457 ; Elizabeth
Brownrigg ; press-room, 458 ; Mrs.
Fry ; Jack Sheppard, 459, 460 ;
debtors removed, 461.

Newgate Market, ii. 439, 491, 493.

Newgate Street, ii. 42S; Christ Church;
the "Salutation and Cat ;" "Magpie
and Stump ;" "Queen's Arms," 430.

New Georgia, Hampstead, v. 446.

Newington ; Newington Butts, vi.-255 ;
etymology ; "Elephant ancl Castle ;"
Joanna Southcott, 256 ; Cross Street,
257 ; Drapers' Almshouses; Fish-
mongers' Almshouses, il>. ; sema-
phore ; Metropolitan Tabernacle,
258, 260 ; St. Mary's old and new
churches, 261, 262, 263; church
pulled down ; clock-tower, 264.

New Inn, iii. ■^T,.

New Jerusalem Church, Camden Ro.ad,
V. 3S0.

New Kent Road, vi. 252.

Newland, Abraham, i. 459, 470.

Newman Street, iv. 466, 467 ; Banks ;
Bacon ; West ; Rev. Edward Irving ;
Stothard ; Copley Fielding ; Cam-
bridge Hall, ill.

New Monthlv Magazine, iv. 312.

New Ormond Street, iv. 563.

New Oxford .Street, iv. 487.

New Palace Yard, iii. 536 ; state in the
seventeenth century ; the High Gate,
292-.\'.E.

lb.: "Paradise," 537; the "Con-
stabulary ; " fountains ; sun-dial ;
clock-tower and bell ; " Old Tom,"
ib. ; punishments and executions,
538 ; pillory ; Titus Oales ; the
"Turk's Head,"/*.

Newport .Market, iii. 177.

Newport Street ; Wedgwood's show-
rooms, iii. 266.

New Pye Street, Westminster, iv. 20,39.

New River, ii. 266 ; v. 430, 53S.

New Road, The ; Paddington coaches,
V. 302.

New Scotland Yard, iii. 330.

Newspapers, history of, iii. 76.

Newspapers, old, iv. 515.

Newspaper statistics, iii. 122.

Newspapers, unstamped, i. 132.

New Square, Lincoln's Inn, iii. 26.

New Street, Covent Garden, iii. 265 ;
■ Dr. Johnson ; the " Pine Apple ; "
Flaxman, ib.

New .Street, Golden Square, iv. 23S.

New Street, Spring Gardens, iv. 81 ;
Spring Gardens Chapel ; St.
Matthew's Chapel, 82.

New Street Square ; Queen's Printing
Office, i. 219.

Newton, Sir Isaac, i. 104, 105, 107,
455 ; iii. 65, 172, 419 ; iv. 232, 267,
268 ; V. 134 ; vi. 214.

New Universuy Club, iv. i6o.

New Way Chapel, Westminster, iv. 20.

Neyte, the M.anorof, Westminster, iv. 3.

Nichols, John Gough, F.S.A., i. 229.

Nichols, Messrs., printers, v. 506.

Nichols Street, Bethnal Green, ii. 14S.

"Nickers," members of dissolute
clubs, iv. 57, 166.

Nightingale, f'lorence, iv. 305.

Nightingale, J. G., and Lady, their
tomb by Roubiliac, iii. 447.

Nightingales, iv. 87; v. 154, 162, 167,
177 ; vi. 44S, 453.

Night Watch, i. 380.

Nine Elms ; Nine Elms' steamboat
pier, vi. 468.

Nithsdale, Lord ; his escape from the
Tower, ii. 76.

Nixon's statue of William IV. i. 550.

Noah, play of, in the Towneley col-
lection, ii. 525.

Noel, Hon. and Rev. Baptist, iv. 551.

Nollekens, iv. 459, 470.

Nonconformists ; the " Clapham Sect ;"
" Claphamites," vi. 321, 325, 326.

Nonsuch House, London Bridge, ii. 15.

Norfolk, Charles, eleventh Duke of, iv.
182, 185.

Norfolk, Duke of; Charterhouse; re-
mains of his house, ii. 383, 393.

Norfolk, Duke of, imprisoned in the
Tower, ii. 66.

Norfolk House, Church Street, Lam-
beth ; Dukes of Norfolk, vi. 418.

Norfolk House, St. James's Square, iv.
182, 185.

Norfolk Street, Park Lane ; murder of
Lord William Russell, iv. 374.

Norfolk Street, Strand ; St. John's
House for training nurses, iii. So ;
Conservative Land Society ; famous
residents, 81.

Norland Square, v. iSi.

Norman, Sir John, Lord Mayor, i. 317,
382, 399 ; iii. 309.

Normand House, North End, Fulham ;
Great Plague ; Hospital for Insane
Ladies, vi. 527.

Norris, Lord and Lady ; their tomb,

iii. 447.
North, Lord, iii. 388 ; iv. 86.
North, Roger, ii. 225.
North, Sir Dudley, iv. 28.
North, Sir Edward ; Charterhouse, ii.

3^3-

" North and South American Coffee
House," i. 537.

North Audley Street, iv. 343 ; Hugh
Audley ; his wealth ; Lord Ligonier;
"Vernon's Head;" St. Martin's
Church, 344.

Northcote, James, R.A., iv. 430.

North - Eastern Hospital for .Sick
Children, v. 507.

North End, Fulliam, vi. 526 ; Browne's
House ; eminent residents ; North
End Road ; Beaufort House ; Lillie
Bridge running-ground ; Foote, ib. ;
Mount Carmel Retreat, 527 ; Cam-
bridge Lodge ; Normand House ;
Lun.atic Asylum for Ladies ; Went-
worth Cottage ; S. C. and Mrs.
Hall; "No Man's Land;" Wal-
nut-tree Cottage ; St. Saviour's
Convalescent Hospital ; residence of
Richardson, ib. ; other residents, 528.

North Kent Radway, vi. 98.

" North Pole " Inn, Oxford Street, iv.
245, 404.

North Street, Fitzroy Square, iv. 476.

North Street, Westminster, iv. 2.

North Surrey District School, Anerley,
vi. 3I.S-

Northumberland Avenue, iii. 141.

Northumberland, Duke of, iii. 23I.

Northumberland, Earl of, imprisoned
in the Tower, ii. 73.

Northumberland House, iii. 135 ;
Northampton House ; Bernard Jan-
sen and Gerard Christmas ; name
changed to Suffolk House and
Northumberland House; thePercies,
136; Sir Hugh Smilhson ; Hollar's
view of the house, 137 ; alterations ;
tire ; the Percy Lion, 13S ; interior ;
gardens, 140; house pulled down,
141.

Northumberland Street ; Ben Jonson ;
Pall Mall Gazette, iii. 134.

Northumberland, the " proud " Earl of,
iii. 346.

North- Western Railway, v. 290, 296.

Norton, 'Hon. Caroline, iv. 175,292,353.

Norton Street, iv. 461.

Norwood, vi. 314 ; gipsies ; Gipsy Hill ;
"Queen of the Gipsies" Inn; the
wood ; Vicar's Oak ; Knight's Hill ;
Lord Thurlow's house, ib. ; Beulah
Spa, 315; churches and chapels;
Queen's Hotel ; North Surrey Dis-
trict School ; Roman Catholic
Orphanage, zb. ; Jews' Hospital,
316 ; the Westmoreland Society's
Schools ; Norwood Cemetery ; Col-
lege for the Blind, Upper Norwood,
ib.

"Noseg.iys" presented to criminals
going to execution, ii. 484.

Notting Hill, V. 177; etymology; De
Veres, 178 ; thieves ; potteries ;
artists ; Dukes of Argyll and Rut-
land ; Dow.ager Duchess of Bedford ;
taverns; Shepherd's Bush; "Gal-
low's Close ; " Kensington ; gravel-
pits ; tradesmen's tokens, //'. ; Grand
Junction Waterworks, 179 ; Tower
Crecy ; Ladbroke Square, 180;

6i4

OLD AND NEV LONDON.

Kensington Park Gardens, i8l ;
St. Jolui's Church, Lansdowne
Crescent ; Norland Square ; Orme
Square ; Bayswater House ; Hip-
podrome, ib. ; races, 182 ; Porto-
bello Farm, 1S3.

Nottingham, Earl of (Lord Chancellor
Finch) ; Nottingham House, now
Kensington Palace, v, 142.

Nottingham Place, Marylebone, iv. 431.

Novosielski, iv. 285.

Numbering of houses, iii. 210, 267.

Nunhead, vi. 291; Nunhead Green;
"Nun's Head" Tavern; Asylum
of Beer and Wine Trade Associa-
tion ; Cemetery ; Southwark and
Vauxhall Water Company's Reser-
voirs; St. Mary's College; Heaton's
Folly, ih.

" Nursery Maid's Walk ; " Park Cres-
cent and Park Square, v. 226.

Nurses, Training School and Home for,
Westminster, iv. 34.

Nutford Place, iv. 410.

O.

" Oak of Honour." {Sec Honour Oak.)

Oakley Square, v. 310.

Gates, Titus, i. 26, 31, 33 ; ii. 530 ; iii.

3S0, 5 38 ; V. 290; vi. 531.
Obelisk in Red Lion Square, iv. 546.
Obelisk in St. George's Circus, vi. 350,

351- . . „

Obelisk, Victoria Embankment, lii. 328.
O'Brien (O'Byrne), Irish giant, iii. 46,

144, 168 ; iv. 84, 221.
Obstetrical Society, iv. 465.
O'Connell, Daniel, i. 214 ; iii. 75, 530 ;

iv. 453-
October Club, iv. 28, 141.
Odd Fellows, v. 8.
Okey, John, regicide, v. 514.
Olaf, King of Norway, i. 448, 450; vi.

3,5,6,101.
Olaf, the Norwegian saint ; pation of

St. Olave's, ii. g; vi. loi.
Old and Young Club, iv. 157.
Old Bailey, ii. 461 ; its name ; Old

Sessions House, 462 ; constitution

of the Court, ib. ; an alibi, 464 ;

Old Court, ib. ; New Court, 465 ;

remarkable trials, ib. ; ])ress-yard,

467 ; torture ; gaol fever, ;'/'. ;
sheriffs' dinners ; marrow puddings,

468 ; triangular gallows and new
drop, 470 ; statistics of executions ;
bodies burnt ; accidents at execu-
tions; pillory, ;'/'./ pillory abolished,
471 ; Surgeons' Hall, A ; Jonathan
Wild, 472, 475 ; Little Old Bailey ;
Green Arbour Court, 476.

" Old Bell" Inn, Warwick Lane, ii. 440.

"Old Blackjack" Tavern, iii. 32.

Old Broad Street, ii. 165 ; Venice
Glass House; Pinners' (Pinmakers')
Hall; Excise Office ; Roman pave-
ment ; church of .St. Peter-le-Poor,
166, 191.

Old Burlington Street; Florence Night-
ingale, iv. 305.

Old Cavendish Street, iv. 446.

Old Change, formerly the King's Ex-
change, i. 346.

Old Chick Lane ; thieves' lodging-
house, ii. 543.

" Old Crown " Tavern, Ilighgatc, v.
394.

Oldfield, Mrs., actress, iii. 220, 417 ;
iv. 28, 171, 107.

Old Jewry, i. 425 ; Jews in Saxon
times ; colonies in London ; power
of the Jews ; fined, persecuted, and
massacred ; synagogues, ib. ; cos-
tume of Jews, 428 ; expelled from
England ; house of Sir Robert
Clayton ; London Institution, ;'/'. ;
Baptist chapel; Presbyterian church,
i. 430.

Old Kent Road, vi. 24S ; Watling
Street ; Kent .Street Road, 249 ;
Licensed Victuallers' Asylum, ib.;
South Metropolitan Gas Works,
250 ; St. Thomas a Watering ;
executions, //'. ; Ueaf and Dumb
Asylum, 251.

"Old Man, The," Inn, Westminster,
iv. 46.

"Old Man's" Coffee House, iii. 334.

" Old Moll," the ferryman's daughter,
foundress of St. Mary Overie's nun-
ner}', ii. 9.

Old I'aLace Yard, iii. 563 ; Lindsay
House ; Chaucer ; Gunpowder Plot,
ib.; cellar under Parliament House,
565 ; execution of Raleigh ; statue
of CcEur-de-Lion, 567.

" Old Parr," iii. 74, 42S ; iv. 46.

" Old Patch," Bank-notes forged by,
i. 459.

" Old Pick my Toe ;" old sign, South-
wark, vi. 89.

Old Pye Street, Westminster, iv. 20, 39.

"Old Simon;" the "Rookery," St.
Cnles's, iii. 207 ; iv. 488.

Oldwick Close, iii. 209.

Oldys, William, Norroy King-at-.\rms,
i. 298 ; ii. 36.

Oliver, Isaac, miniature painter, i. 209,
302.

Oliver's Mount, Moimt Street, iv. 3S0,

385-
Olympic 1 heatre, i. 522 ; iii. 35.
" Ombres Chinoises," iv. 232.
Omnibuses, iv. 261 ; Shillibeer, 410 ;

V. 256.
O'Neill, Miss, iii. 232.
One-Tree-Hi'l, Greenwich Park, vi. 207.
Onslow Stjuare, v. 104.
" O.P." riots, Covent Garden Theatre,

iii. 231.
Open spaces, statistics, vi. 575.
" Opera Comique " Theatre, iii. 35.
Opera House. (Siv Her Majesty's

Theatre.)
" Opera, The ;" the Duke's Theatre,

Lincoln's Iim, so called, iii. 27.
Operas at the Pantheon, iv. 244.
Operas, Italian, Introduction of, iv.

209.
Opie, iii. 212 ; iv. 464.
Orange Street, Leicester Square, iv.

232 ; chapel ; Newton's house ; Dr.

and Miss Burney, ib.
Orange-trees; St. James's Park, iv. 51 ;

Kensingtcm, v. 153.
Orange-women, Hyde Park, iv. 3S7.
"Orator" Hcnlcv, iii. 41.
Or.rtorios, iii. 118, 574; iv. 211.
Oratory, The, Brompton, v. 26.
Orchartl Street, Westminster, iv. 40,

423-
Ordinaries described in the "Gull's

Horn Book," i. 276.
O'Reilly, Paris correspondent of the

Tiiiia ; exposure of ' ' Bogus " fraud,

i. 213.
Organs, iii. 231, 505, 422 ; v, 114, 507;

vi. 104, 362, 363.

Oriental Club, iv. 316.

Orleans, Duke of, imprisoned in the

Tower, ii. 64.
Orme Square, v. 181.
Ormonde House, St. James's Square,

iv. 183. _

Ormond Street, iv. 551.
Ormond Yard, St. James's Square, iv.

203.
Ornithological Society, iv. 51.
Orphan Asylum, Bonner's Road, v. 508.
Orphan Working School, Haverstock

Hill, V. 315.
Orphanage for Boys, Stockwell ;

founded by Rev. C. H. Spurgeon,

vi. 329.
Orrer)', Charles, Earl of; the "Orrery,"

v. 89.
Orvietan, an antidote to poison, iv. 545.
Osbaldiston, "Squire" George, v. 249.
Osborne, Lord Mayor ; apprentice to

Sir Wm. Hewitt ; saves the life of

his master's daughter, i. 401.
Osborne, Thomas, bookseller, ii. 556.
Osier beds, Pimlico, v. 40.
Osnaburgh Street, v. 299 ; St. Savi-
our's Honre and Hospital ; Trinity

Church, 300.
Osyth, St., iv. 239.

Otto, M., French Ambassador, iv. 413.
Otway, Thomas, i. 102 ; ii. 97.
Outran), Benjamin, " tram ''-ways, vi.

483-

Outran), General Sir James, iii. 328.

Oval, Kennington, vi. ^,2,^.

Overbury, Sir Thomas, ii. 74, 414.

Overend, Gurney, and Co., i. 466.

Overy, John and JIary, Legend of, ii. 9.

Owen, Robert, iv. 575.

" Owls ■' Club, iii. 282, 2S4.

Oxen roasted on the Thames ; " Frost
Fair," iii. 313— 3"7-

Oxendon Street, iv. 231.

Oxford Chapel, Vere Street, iv. 442.

Oxford, Edward, his attack on (Jueen
Victoria, iv. 179.

Oxford Market, iv. 461.

Oxford Road. (&c Oxford Street.)

Oxford Square and Terrace, v. 202.

Oxford Street, iv. 244 ; shops ; <iuag-
mire ; cut-throats ; " Charlies ;"
the Pantheon, //'. ; " Green Man and
Still," 245 ; " Hog in the Pound ;"
"North Pole;'' "Balloon" fruit-
shop," ib.; Via Trinobantina, 406 ;
formerly " Uxbridge Road," "Ty-
burn Ro.ad," an;! "Oxford Road ;''
Lord Mayor's Banqueting House ;
Bear Cianlcn, ib.; former state, 440 ;
Laurie and Marner, 441; "North
Pole" public-house, 464; "Boar
and Castle" posting-house, 471 ;
Oxford Music Ilall ; twice burnt
down, ib.

Oxford and Cambridge Boat-races, vi.
500.

Oxford and Cambridge Club, iv. 146.

"Oyster, The Whistling;" Vinegar
Yard, iii. 282.

Pace, Dean of St. Paul's, ii. 140.

" Pack Horse " Tavern, Turnliani
Green, vi. 561.

P.addington, v. 205 ; growth of popu-
lation, 206 ; P.addinglon stages ;
Miles and "Miles's I'.oy ;" ])ait of
St. Margaret's, Westminster ; manor
l>resented to Westminster Abbey ;

GENERAL INDEX.

615

Bishops of London, ili. ; "head of
water " granted to City Corporation,

207 ; Priory of St. Barlhoioinew's ;
grazing land ; old parish churches,
ib. ; present Church of St. Mary,

208 ; scrambling for loaves ; inter-
ments, ib. ; B. R. Ilaydon, 209 ;
Paddington Green, 210; churches,
212 ; Gloucester Gardens ; Old
Church Street ; Brothers, the pro-
phet ; old public-houses ; market-
gardens ; laundresses, ib. ; Green
enclosed, 213; the Vestry Hall;
Wyatt's studio ; distinguished resi-
dents; Princess Charlotte ; Pad-
dington House ; Paddington May-
dance, ;■/'. ; Westbourne Place, 2 14;
Desborough Place ; Westbourne
Farm, ib. ; Lock Plospital and
St. Mary's Hospital, 215 ; Dis-
pensary, 218 ; Dudley Stuart Home;
Boatman's Chapel ; footpads; Arti-
sans' Dwellings Company ; Baths
and Washhouses, ib. ; old alms-
houses, 219 ; Paddington, Grand
Junction, and Regent's Canals ;
Western Waterworks, ib. : Kensal
New Town, 220 ; Kensal Green
Cemetery, ih. ; Roman Catholic
Cemetery, 221 ; London Board
School, 222 ; Praed Street ; Great
Western Railway ; Paddington Ter-
minus and Hotel, 223.

Paddington coaches, v. 203, 205.

Paddington Street ; cemeteries, iv. 426.

Page Street, Westminster, iv. 8.

Page, Thomas, C.E., v. 41, iSo.

Pageants, i. 315—332, 359 ; Drapers'
Company, 54S ; ii. 5, 11, 23, 189 ;
vi. 9, 10, 166, 16S, 171.

Pagoda, St. James's Park (1814), iv. 54.

Paine, Tom, i. 117.

Painted Chamber ; Palace of West-
minster, iii. 497.

Pamter-Stainers' Hall, ii. 37.

Palace Gate House, Kensington, v. 138.

Palace of Westminster, New. {Sec
Houses of Parliament.)

Palace of Westminster, Royal. {See
Westminster.)

Palgrave, Sir Francis, v. 490.

Pall Mall East, iv. 226 ; Society of
Painters in Water-Colours ; Ben-
jamin West ; Messrs. Colnaghi ;
Palestine Exploration Fund, 227.

"Pall Mall," game of, ii. 328; "The
Mall," iv. 74; its "sweet shady
side," 123 ; Cumberland House,
124; Schomberg House; Bowyer's
Historic Gallery,//).; Nell Gwynne,
127 ; Army and Navy Club, ib. ;
Buckingham House, 128 ; Lord
Temple ; Lord Bristol ; Lord Nu-
gent, ib. ; War Offtce, 129 ; statue
of "Sydney Herbert ;" Marlborough
House, 129 — 133 ; literary associa-
tions, 134 ; " Hercules' Pillars,"
135; "The Feathers;" Shake-
speare Gallery; Boydell Gallery, ib.;
exhibitions and amusements, 136 ;
British Institution ; Institute of
Painters in Water-Colours ; "Al-
mack's Club;" " Goose Trees
Club;" Lord Coleraine; Lord George
Germain ; Mrs. Abington, ib. ;
" Grasshopper " Bank, 137 ; " Star
and Garter " Hotel ; mail-coach
robbery ; street gas-lighting, ib.

Pallavicini, Sir Horatio, ii. 149.

Pallenscourt manor-house, Hammer-
smith, vi. 534.

Palls: "Sir William Walworth's " at
Fishmongers' Hall ; Merchant Tay-
lors' ; Saddlers', ii. 5, 6.

Palmer, John, ii. 209.

Palmer's Almshouses, iv. 40.

Palmer's \'illage, Westminster, iv. 40.

Pahnerston, Lady, iv. 197.

Palmerston, Viscount, iv. 285, 2S7, 315.

Palsgrave Place, Strand, iii. 63.

Pan-.\nglican Synod, Lambeth Palace,
vi. 442.

Pancake feast toLondon 'prentices, i. 399.

"Pancake, throwing The," at West-
minster School, iii. 477.

Pandemonium Club, i. 42.

Panizzi, Sir Anthony, iv. 503, 5'7' S'-^-

Panopticon, Leicester Square, iii. 16S.

Panoramas, iii. 1 70; iv. 22 ; v. 269 — 272.

Pantechnicon, v. II.

Pantheon, The, Oxford Street, iv. 244 ;
bazaar ; masquerades ; career of
Mrs. Cornelys ; Horace Walpole ;
Lunardi's balloon ; George IV. ;
Delpini ; Handel ; opera-house ;
O'Reilly ; Cundy ; Miss Linwood ;
political meetings, 245.

Pantherion, iv. 258.

Panton Street; Col. Panton, iv. 232, 236.

Panyer Alley, " highest ground '' in the
City, i. 280.

Paoli, General, iv. 344, 40S.

Paper manufactory, Chelsea, v. 53.

Papey, The ; Brotherhood of St. John
and St. Charity, ii. 165.

Parade, Horse Guards, iv. 59.

" Paradise," at Westminster, iii. 537.

Parchment-makers, vi. 123.

Pardon Churchyard, ii. 380.

Paris Garden ; Liberty of Blackfriars,

\i. 51. 53> 55> 380, 381, 385-

Park Crescent, iv. 450.

Park, J., his " History of Hampstead,"
V. 476.

Park Lane, iv. 291 ; Dudley Plouse,
367, 36S ; Holdernesse House ; Dor-
chester House ; R. S. Holford, ib.

Park Place, St. James's, iv. 171.

Park Square, v. 269.

Park Street, Grosvenor Square, iv. 374;
Davy ; Beckford ; Lydia White ;
Lord Wensleydale, ib.

Park Street, Westminster, iv. 44. ,

Park Theatre, v. 10.

Park \"illage East, v. 299.

Parker, Archbp., vi. 429, 430, 434, 437.

Parker, leader of the mutiny at the
Nore, il. 143.

Parker Street, Drury Lane, iii. 209.

Parker Street, Westminster, iv. 35.

Parks and openspaces ; statistics, vi. 575.

Parliament Hill, HIghgate ; Gunpowder
Plot, V. 405.

Parliament, Houses of {See Houses of
Parliament.)

Parliament Square ; statues, iii. 539.

Parliament Street, iii. 381, 382 ; Ni-
chols's printing-office ; Mr. Drum-
mond shot ; Whitehall Club, ib.

Parliamentary oratory, iii. 530.

Parliamentary reporting, i. 141 ; ii. 320;
iii. 512.

" Parr, Old," iii. 74, 428 ; iv. 46.

Parr, Queen Katharine, v. 52, 58.

Parr, Rev. Dr. Richard, vi. 284.

Parris, E. T. , Panorama of London,
v. 272.

Parry, Sir Edward, v. 44S.

Parsons, comedian, i. 352.

Parsons, contriver of the " Cock Lane
Ghost," ii. 435—438-

Parson's Green, vi. 518 ; Fair ; Parson s
Green Lane, 519; Park House;
Richardson ; other eminent resi-
dents ; Eelbrook Common ; Peter-
borough House, ib.; Earl of Peter-
borough, 520.

Partridge-.shooting on the site of Gros-
venor House, iv. 550.

Pasquali's concert-room, iv. 472.

Paston Letters, i. 400.

Pastor's College ; Rev. C. IL SpC"-
geon, vi. 326.

Patches on the face, iv. 383.

"Patchwork Closet," Kensington Pa-
lace, v. 141.

Patents, Museum of, v. 112.

Paternoster Row, i. 274 ; sale of pa-
ternosters ; mercers ; tire-women ;
booksellers ; house of Longman and
Co. ,ib.; the "Castle," 275; Richard
Tarleton; ordinaries, 276; "Dolly's"
Tavern, 278 ; celebrities of the
"Chapter Coffee House," ib. ;
"Printing Conger," 279; Mrs.
Turner ; poisoning of Sir Thomas
Overbury, 280 ; St. Michael's
Church ; Leland ; Panyer Alley,
the " highest ground " in the
City, ib.

Paterson, William, founder of the Bank
of England, i. 347.

Pathological Society, iv. 465.

" Patrick's-eye " (Battersea), vi. 469.

Patriotic Asylum, Wandsworth ; Pa-
triotic Fund, vi. 4S2.

Pattens, iv. 47 1 .

Paulet, Henry, " Governor of Lambeth
Marsh," vi. 38S.

Paulet House, Great Queen Street, iii.
210.

Paulet, Sir Aniyas, his house in Fleet
Street, i. 45.

Paul's Chain, i. 266.

Paul's Cross, 1. 238 ; folkmotes ; papal
interdict against the Florentines ;
Dr. Bourne preaching, 243.

Pauperism ; statistics, vi. 570, 574.

Pavements, Experimental, iv. 471.

Pavements, Roman, i. 18, 21, 557; ii.
34, 166, 191.

Pavements, .Street, iii. 266.

Paxton, Sir Joseph, v. 32.

Payne, Tom, iv. 125.

Peabody Buildings, St. George's Fields,

^''- 350-

Peabody, George, iii. 418.

Peace Festival (1814), iv. 53, iv. 393;
{1856), V. 291.

Peacock's pocket-books, i. 146.

Pearson, Charles, Metropolitan Rail-
way, V. 224.

Peckham, vi. 286 ; Queen's Road ;
Albert Road ; Peckham Park ;
Peckham Park Road ; Hill Street ;
manor-house, //'.; Peckham House
Lunatic Asylum, 2S7 ; High Street ;
police-station ; Avenue Plouse ; Miss
Rye ; Marlborough House ; Blen-
heim House ; " Rosemary Branch "
Tavern; Peckham Fair, ib.; Theatre,
289 ; Nell Gwynne ; Dr. Mllner's
School ; Goldsmith, ib.: Hanover
Street, 290 ; Basing Yard ; Basing
Manor ; Rye Lane ; railway sta-
tion ; Museum of Fire Arms ; Peck-
ham Rye, ib.

6i6

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

Pedlar's Acre ; the pedlar and his dog,

vi. 387, 444-
Peek, Frean, and Co.'s biscuit factory,

Bermondsey, vi. 131.
Peel, the late Sir Robert, Bart., i. 341,

459; iii- 38S, 531 ; i^'- !79. 40S. 444-
*'* Peele's Coffee-House,'* i. 52.
Peerless Pool, formerly Perilous Pond,

ii. 201.
Pelham Crescent, v. 104.
Pelicans, vi. 2S8.

Pemberton Row, Fetter Lane, i. 59.
Pemberton Row, Ilij^hgate; Sir Francis

Pemberton, v. 424.
Pembroke, Countess of, ii. 157, 219.
Pembroke House, Whitehall, iii. 377.
Penitentiary, Female, Pentonville, 11.287.
Penitentiary, Millbank. (^Vi-Millbank

Prison.)
Penn, William, ii. 75, 97, 414 ; iii. Si ;

vi. 154.
Pennant, Sir Samuel ; his death caused

by gaol fever, i. 407.
Pennethorne, Sir James, architect, i.

loi, 305.
Pennington, Sir Isaac, Lord Mayor, i.

404 ; ii. 5.
Penny Wedding at Lambeth Wells, vi.

3«9.

Penton, Henry, ALP., his estate at
Pentonville, ii. 279.

Pentonville, ii. 279 ; Geoffrey de Man-
deville ; Hospitallers ; the conduit
heads ; Henry Penton, ALP. ;
"Belvedere" Tavern; "Busby's
Folly ; " Joe Grimaldi ; White Con-
duit House, ill. ; St. James's Chapel,
286; " Prospect House" Tavern,
2S7 ; " Dobney's ; " horsemanship ;
bee-taming ; F'emale Penitentiary ;
tragedy in Southampton Street, 287.

Pentonville Prison, ii. 281.

Pepperers in Soper Lane, i. 352.

Pepys, i. 44, 50, 196, 248, 274, 309,
383, 572 ; ii. 20, 99, III, 112, 176,
178, 18S, 196, 224, 330, 337, 555,
560 ; iii. 27, 38, 39, 57, loi, 109,
122, 128, 219, 354, 356, 374, 405,
434. 488, 542, 549 ; IV. 26, 28,
50, 51, 52, 56, 62, 76, S3, 105, 109,
141, 207, 228, 231, 260, 269, 273,

275. 381, 383, 3S6, 432, 549; V-
21, 124, 405; vi. 51, 52, 59, lOI,
130, 134, 136, 148, 152. '76, 191,
195, 234, 314, 321 , 342, 387, 448, 501 .

Perambulation of parish bounds, ii.
237 ; iii. 380.

Perceval, Rt. Hon. Spencer, iii. 530 ;
iv. 345, 551 ; V. 497 ; vi. 231.

Pcrcival, John, Lord Mayor, i. 400.

" Percy Anecdotes," iv. 469, 470.

Percy Chapel, iv. 472.

Percy Cross, Fulham Road ; " Purser's
Cross," vi. 517.

Percy .Street, iv. 472.

Perkins's steam gun, i. 123; iii. 133.

Pcro's " I'.agnio," iv. 167.

Perry, James ; Morning Chroiiidd, i.

^ 75 ; iv. 573-

Perukes, iv. 167.

Pest-ficld and Pesc-house, Carnaby

Street, iv. 236, 239, 250.
Pcst-field, Bayswater, v. 185.
Pest-houses, iv. 14, 15, 236 ; vi. 549.
Peterborough, F.arl of, iv. 292.
Peterborough House, Fulham, vi. 519.
Peterborough House, .Millbank, iv. 2, 3.
Peter of Colechurcli, London Bridge

built by, ii. 10 : iii. 21.3.

Peter the Great, ii. 98 ; iii. 81, 162,
544 ; V. 143 ; vi. 148, 154, 155.

Peters, Hugh, iii. 573 ; vi. 377.

Peto, Sir S. Morton, v. 269.

Pett, Peter, master shipwright, Dept-
ford, vi. 160.

Peltico.at Lane, ii. 144.

" Petty Calais," Westminster, iv. 21.

" Petty F'rance," Leicester Fields and
Westminster, iii. 172 ; iv. 17, 21,

34, 45- . , .

Petty, Sir Wm., 1. 515 ; iv. 256, 209.

Petty Wales, ii. 93.

Peyrault's "Bagnio," St. James's
Street, iv. 167.

Pharmaceutical Society, iv. 542.

Phelps, Samuel, tragedian, ii. 294.

Philanthropic Society's School, St.
George's Fields, vi. 350.

Philip of Flanders, his armour in the
Tower, ii. 86.

Philippa, Queen, iii. 441.

Philips, Ambrose, iii. 277.

Phillips, Lord Mayor, banquet to Prince
of Wales and King of the Belgians,
i. 416.

Phillips, Sir Richard, i. 208, 278, 413 ;
ii. 26S ; iv. 172, 312, 395, 470; v.
14, 26, 47, 09, 77, 82, 154; vi.
470.

Philological School, v. 257.

Phijips, Sir William, a lucky specula-
tor, i. 527.

" Phcenix" Theatre, Diiuy Lane, iii.
209.

Physic Garden, Chelsea, v. 68.

Physicians. College of. (Sec College of
Physicians.)

Physiorama, iv. 461.

Piazzas ; the Piaz/a, Covent Garden,
iii. 239, 240, 248, 249.

Picard, .Sir Henry, Lord Mayor, i. 398,
556.

Piccadilly, iv. 178 ; formerly Portugal
Street, 249 ; Criterion Restaurant
and Theatre, 207 ; " Piccadilly
Saloon,"' 208 ; origin of the name ;
"pickadils," cakes or turnovers ;
' ' ]ieccadiIlos, " ' ' picardills, " "piqua-
dillo," "pickardill," " pickadilla,"
"pickadilly," "i)eckadille," "picke-
dila," 207, 218, 233, 235, 248;
Piccadilly Hall; pillory, ?/'.,- Goring
House, 249; Arlington Street;
Clarendon House ; Burlington
House ; Devonshire House, //'. ;
St. James's Church, 255 ; Sir Wm.
Petty, 256 ; Chapman and Hall,
257; Hatchard ; Pickering; De-
brett ; Anti-Jacobin ; F^gyptiaii
Hall; Bullock's Museum ; "Living
Skeleton ; " Tom Thumb, Hk ; the
Albany, 258 ; Daniel Lambert, 259 ;
" White Horse Cellar" and coaches,
260; Ilatchctt's Hotel, 261 ; Bur-
lington House, 262-272; Burlington
Arcade, 273; Clarendon House, ili.;
Berkeley House, 275 ; Devonshire
House, ii>. ; Stratton Street, 280 ;
Bath llouse, 282; Watier's Gam-
bling Club, 284 ; Turf Club, 285 ;
Naval .and Military Club ; Cambridge
House ; Hertford House ; Coventry
House; St. James's Club; mansions
of the Rothschilds ; Lady Keith,
;/'. ; Junior Alhenxum Club, 286;'
Henry Thomas Hope ; Lord Kldon ;
Gloucester House; J)uke of Glou-
cester ; Karl of Elgin ; I'.Igin

marbles ; Duke of Queensben-y, il/.;
Byron, 2S7 ; " Hercules Pillars ; "
statuaries' "figure-yards;" Picca-
dilly Terrace, il>. ; "Triumphal
Chariot " watering - house, 288 ;
Wyatt's rebellion and fortifications,
2S9 ; highwaymen, 290 ; toll-gate
at Hyde Park Corner, id.

Piccadilly Hall, gaming-house, iv. 236.

Pickett, Alderman ; Pickett Street,
Strand, iii. 10, II, 23; v. 534.

"Pickled Kgg" Tavern, Clerkenwcll,
ii. 305.

Pickle Herring Street, vi. 113.

" Pickwick" in the Fleet Prison, ii. 413.

Pic-nic Club, iii. 167.

Pic-nic Society, v. 81.

Picton, Sir Thomas, iv. 322, 437,

Pidcock's menagerie, iii. 116.

Pie Corner, ii. 363.

' ' Pigeon expresses, " .Stock Exchange,
i. 490.

Pigeon-shooting; "Red House," Bat-
tersea, vi. 476.

Pigtails, v. 158.

Pike Gardens, the Queen's, Bankside,
vi. 55.

Pilgrimages ; Our Lady of Muswell,
.Muswell Hill, V. 434. (5t't^ Tabard
Lin, Suuthwark.)

Pillory, The, i. 33, 306; ii. 471; iii.
I2'8, 538 ; iv. 135, 170, 471 ; the
punishment abolished, ii. 471.

Pimlico, v. 39 ; etymology ; "Pimlico"
at Hoxton ; Ben Jonson, //'. ; Ar-
lington House, 40 ; Grosvenor
Canal ; osier beds ; Willow Walk ;
Warwick .Street ; Warwick Square ;
St. Gabriel's Church ; Vauxhall
Bridge Road ; St. George's Square ;
Army Clothing Depot, ib. ; Lupus
Street, 41 ; churches ; Victoria
Railway Station ; Grosvenor Hotel,
th. ; Mission House, 44; Orph.an-
age ; .St. John's .School ; Bramah's
factory ; Thomas Cubilt, builder,
ib. ; "Monster," "Gun," "Star
and Garter," and "Orange" Ta-
verns, 45 ; "Jenny's Whim," ib. ;
highwaymen, 46; Tart Hall ; Lord
Stafford ; Stafford Place and Row ;
Karl of Arundel, //'. ; Arundel
marbles, 47 ; Richard Heber, -M.l'.;
his library, 48.

Pimlico tJarden, Bankside, vi. 55.

"Pimlico," Iloxton, v. 39, 525; ale-
house, Pimlico Walk, ib.

Pinchbeck, Christopher; "pinchbeck,"
and musical clocks, i. 53 ; ii. ^^^.

" Pindar of Wakefield," Gr.ay's Inn
Road, ii. 27S, 297.

Piiukar, Sir Paul, i. 246; ii. 159; his
house, Bishopsgatc, ii. 152, 153;
the "Sir Paul Pindar's Head," to.

Pinkerfon, John, iv. 574.

Piozzi, Mrs., iv. 442; vi. 34, 35, 317,
318.

Pipe 1' ields. Spa I' ields, ii. 303.

Pirates hung in chains, ii. 135.

Pirie, Sir John, Lord Mayor, i. 416,
506, 50S.

Pitcairn, Dr., ii. 433.

I'itt I'iridge. (SW Blackfiiars Eridge.)

" Pitt Club,"' iv. 159.

Pitt Diamond, The, iii. 531.

Pitt, Rt. Hon. Wm., i. 207, 324, 327 ;
iii. 388. 416, 531 ; iv. 129, 136,
159, 171, 3 '4. 423; vi. 200, 248,
3 '7, 495. 496-

GENERAL INDEX.

Cr7

Pitt Street, iv. 476.

Pix, Trial of the, i. 357.

Pizarro at Diury Lane Theatre, iii. 224.

Placentia, or Pleazaimce ; Palace of
Greenwich. (See Greenwich.)

PLigues (1348), ii. 380; (1349), i". 455 :
(1361), V. 16 ; (1363 and 1603), iii.
572 ; (1569), iii. 466.

Plagiie ; Defoe's " History," i. 515.

I'lague, Great {1665), i. 47, 370, 405,
532 ; ii. 112, 113, 13S, 165, 176,
257 ; iii. 37, 208 ; iv. 15, 28, 236,
383; V. 23, 50, 390, 522; vi. 153,

173, 555. 557-
Plague-pits, ii. 202 ; iv. 249.
Planche, J. R., F.S.A., ii. 83 ; iii.

126, 233 ; iv. 458, 573 ; V. 102,

108, 119, 134 ; vi. 203.
Plane-trees ; Berkeley Square, iv. 327.
Planta, Right Hon. Joseph, M.P., iv.

447. 5'S.
Plaster modellers, iv. 550.
Plaster moulding of the face ; Pepys,

iv. ?.l.
Platen, Countess of; South Sea Bubble,

i. 542.
Playbills, iii. 28.
Plough Alley, iii. 22.
Plough Court, Lombard Stieet, house

of Pope's father, i. 526.
** Plough " Inn, Clapham, vi. 327.
Plough Monday, feast at the Mansion

House, i. 440.
"Plough" Tavern, Kensal Green, v.

221.
Plovers' eggs imported ; the first of the

season for the Queen, ii. 496.
Plowden, Edmund, i. 154.
Plumbers' Hall, ii. 41.
Plumtree Street, Bloomsbury, iv. 488.
Pneumatic Despatch Company, v. 242.
Poer, Lord, iv. 183.
Poet Laureate ; his butt of sherry, iv.

119.
Poet's Corner. (.Sv Westminster Abbey.)
"Poet's Head," St. James's Street, iv.

164.
Poland Street ; Dr. Burney, iv. 464.
"Political Betty," iv. 169.
Polito's menagerie, iii. 116.
Polygon, The ; Godwin and MaiyWool-

stoncraft, v. 345.
Polytechnic Institution. [See Royal

Polytechnic Institution.)
Pond, John, .-Vstronomer Royal, vi. 215.
Pond Place, Chelsea, v. 88.
Pond Street, Hampstead, v. 491.
Ponds, llarnpstead and Highgate, v.

412, 443, 444.
" Poodle Byng, " iv. 256.
Poole, John, dramatist, i. 65.
Pope, Alexander, i. 75, 526, 527 ; ii.

26, 420; iii. 276, 277, 264, 311,

569 ; iv. 49, 50, 81, 88, 107,

141, 167, 178, 243, 262, 279, 284,

327. 332, 3SS, 541 ; vi. 62, 470,

556, 560, 563.
Pope, The, burnt in effigy, i. 7, 27.
Pope's Head Alley, Cornhill, ii. 172.
" Pope's Head " Tavern, Cornhill, ii.

171 ; goldsmith's wager ; Bowen

killed by Qiiin, 172.
" Pope's Head " Tavern ; Pope and

Curll, iii. 264.
Pop-gun Plot, Stock Exchange, i. 4S0.
Popham, Andrew, rejected at the

Charterhouse, ii. 389.
Poppin's Court, hostel of the Abbots

cf Cirencester, i. 135.

Population of London, past and pre-
sent ; statistics, vi. 569 ; comparison
with other British and Foreign cities,
countries, and theentire globe ; illus-
trations of its amount, 569, 570.

" Porridge Island," iii. 141, 158.

Porson, first librarian of the London
Institution, i. 178, 429 ; v. 98.

" Porter;" beer; origin of the term,
iv. 303, 485.

Porters. (Sec Fellowship Porters,
Tackle Porters, Ticket Porters.)

Porteus, Bishop ; his library, I'ulham
Palace, vi. 508 ; whetstone at Ful-
ham Palace, 510.

Portland Chapel, iv. 456. .

Portland, Duke of, iv. 445.

Portland Place, iv. 450 ; distinguished
residents ; Foley House, Mansfield
House, 452.

Portland Road Station, Metropolitan
Railway, v. 226.

Portland vase, iv. 526.

Portraan Chapel, Baker Street, iv. 422.

Portman family ; Sir William Portman,
iv. 407, 412,423,425.

Portman Market, v. 259.

Portman Square, iv. 412 ; distinguished
residents; Mrs. Montagu, 413.

Portman Street, iv. 418.

Portobello Farm, Notting Hill, v. 183.

Portpool Lane, ii. 554.

Portrait Gallery, National, v. 107.

Portsmouth, Duchess of, iii. 356, 357.

Portugal Street, Grosvenor Square, iv.

373-
Portugal Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields,

iii. 27.
"Portugal Street;" "Piccadilly" so

called, iv. 249, 256.
Postern Row, Tower Hill, ii. 98.
Post Olifice. (See General Post Office.)
Pott, Messrs. ; vinegar-works, vi. 42.
Pott, Percival, surgeon, ii. 362.
Potteries, Notting "llill, v. 178.
Pottery, Dwight's, Parson's Green, vi.

521.

Poultney's Inn, Upper Thames .Street,

ii. 17.
Poultry Market, New, Smithfield, ii.

495-
Pouhry, The, i. 417 ; Vernor and

Hood ; Thomas Flood ; the " Rose"

or " King's Head" Tavern; Stocks'

Market, ib. ; St. Mildred's Church ;

epitaphs, 419 ; the Compter, 423 ;

Dekker ; Jonathan Strong, the

African slave, and Granville Sharp,

ib.
Pound, St. Giles's, iii. 200.
Powell.SirW., almshouses, vi. 508, 516.
Powell's, puppet show, iii. 249.
Powis House, Great Ormond Street ;

Marquis of Powis, iv. 556.
Powis Place, Queen Square, iv. 562.
Praed's Bank, Fleet Street, i. 38, 46.
" Praise God Barebone, " i. 95.
" 'Prentice riots." (bee Apprentices.)
Prerogative Court and Will Oflice, i.

2S3, 286, 2S8; iii. 327.
Press Yard, Newgate ; torture, ii. 467.
Pretender (The Old ; the Young), iii.

86, 93 ; iv. no.
Price's Candle Factories, Vauxhall and

Battersen, vi. 46S.
Pridden, Sally, Hon. John Finch

stabbed by, iii. 268.
" Pride's Purge," iii. 526.
Priestley, Dr., v. 515.

Primrose Club, iv. 170. I

Primrose Hill, v. 287 ; Barrow Hill ; '
ancient barrow ; reservoir of West
Middlesex Waterworks ; manor of
Chalcot ;murdcr of Sir Edmundbury
Godfrey, ib. ; Wliile House, or
Lower Chalcot Farm, 2S9 ; duels,
290 ; land secured for the Crown ;
North-Westem Railway Tunnel, ;'//.;
.Sh.ikespeare oak, 291.
Prince of Wales's Gate, Hyde Park, iv.

.395-

Prince of Wales's Theatre, the new,
Coventry Street, iv. 233.

Prince of Wales's Theatre, Tottenham
Street, iv. 472, 473 ; Pasquali's con-
cert room ; Concerts of Ancient
Music ; Col. Greville ; Circus ; Brun-
ton ; Mrs. Yates; " New Theatre";
" King's Ancient Concert Rooms ";
"Regency Theatre" ; "Theatre
of V.arieties " ; " West London
Theatre"; "Queen's Theatre" ;
" Fitzroy "; Mrs. Nesbitt ; Madame
Vestris ; Mrs. Bancroft, ib.

Prince's Court, Westminster, iv. 35.

Prince's Cricket-ground, v. 99.

Prince's Hall, Piccadilly, iv. 254.

Princes .Street, Drury Lane, iii. 40.

Princes Street, Hanover Square; Emily
FaithfuU, iv. 310.

Princes Street, Leicester Square, iv.238.

Princes Street, Westminster, iv. 34, 35.

Princess's Theatre, iv. 461 ; Queen's
Bazaar ; burnt down ; rebuilt ; David
Roberts; Physiorama ; Hamlet, the
silversmith, //'. ; Charles Kean and
Mrs. Kean, 462.

Pringle, Sir John, and the Royal So-
ciety, i. 106.

" Printing Conger " at the " Chapter "
Coffee House, i. 279.

Printing House Square ; Times news-
paper, its history, i. 209 — 215.

Printing on the Thames ; " Frost Fair,''
iii- 313—320.

Prior, iii. 269, 42S, 437 ; iv. 29, 54, 83,
172, 442 ; V. 143; vi. 59.

Prison at Lud Gate, i. 224.

Prison discipline, v. 3S0.

Prison of the Clink, vi. 32.

Prisoners' Base, iv. 4S3.

Prisons at Westminster ; the Gate
House ; the Bishop of London's
prison, iii. 4S9.

Prisons. (See Bridewell, City Prison,
Coldbath Fields, Fleet, Horse-
monger Lane. House of Detention,
Millbank, Newgate, Pentonville,
Tothill Fields, Wandsworth.)

Privy Council Offices, iii. 374 ; oath of
the Clerk of the Council, 388.

Privy Gardens, Whitehall, iii. 335, 376.

Prize-fighting, ii. 302 ; iv. 406, 455 ;
V. 296, 304, 370. (See Female
Prize-fighters.)

Probate Court, i. 2S6.

Procter, B. W. (" Barry Corm\"all "), iv.

437.
" Prout, Father," iv. 251.
Providence Chapel, Great Titchfield

Street, iv. 461.
Piynne ; preservation of public records,

i. lOI ; imprisoned, ii. 75, 405 ; iii.

58. 53S.
Pryor s Bank, Fulham ; antiquities and

curiosities ; festivities ; auction sale,

vi. 522, 524.
Public-houses ; statistics, vi. 570.

6iS

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

Puckle's Machine Company, i. 539.

Pudding Lane, ii. 35.

"Puffing Billy," v. 112.

Pugilism, {iei! Prize-fighting).

Pugin, A. W. ; Houses of Parliament,
iii. 503 ; vi. 363.

" Pulteney guinea," British Museum,
iv. 527.

Pulteney Hotel ; Pulteney, Earl of
Bath, iv. 284.

Pulteney, Sir John, Lord Mayor ; the
"Rose," or " Pulteney 's Inn," ii.
28, 137.

Pultock. Robert, author of " Peter
Wilkins," i. 93.

Pumps, Old, i. 167, 346 ; ii. 160 ; iii.
22 ; iv. 550 ; vi. 536.

Funck office ; history of the paper, i.
56-59.

Punch, or Punchinello, Introduction of,
iii. 128 ; iv. 83.

Puppet -shows, iii. 249; iv. 346, 347.

Purcell, Henry, iii. 4S3 ; iv. 38, 1S4.

Purdon, Ned ; Goldsmith's epitaph, i. 62.

Putney, vi. 4S9 ; Domesday Book ;
fishery and ferry ; old houses ; High
Street ; Fairfax House, 490 ; army
of the Commonwealth ; bridge of
boats; the "Palace," ib. : "The
Cedars," 491 ; Putney House ; Col-
lege for Civil Engineers ; Dawes's
Almshouses ; ^Yatermen's School ;
Cromwell Place ; D'Israeli Road,
ib.; Thomas Cromwell, Earl of
Essex ; Wolsey, 492 ; Bonner's
House, 493 ; Essex House, 495 ;
Lime Grove ; residents ; the bowl-
ing-green ; Bowling-green House ;
death of Pitt, ih.; Hartley's fire-
proof house and obelisk, 497 ; Hos-
pital for Incurables ; Putney Heath ;
highwaymen ; gibbet, ib. ; duels,
498 ; reviews, 500 ; Grantham
House; Putney Park ; boat-houses;
boat-clubs ; Oxford and Cambridge
Boat-race; "Star and Garter, " iA;
Church and Bridge, 501 ; tollhouses
and bells, 503 ; collectors' uniforms;
the old and the new bridge, ib,

Pye, Poet I aureate, iv. 42, 257.

Pye, Sir Robert ; Old and New Pye
Streets, Westminster, iv. 20, 39.

Pym, John, v. 94.

I'yne, Miss Louisa; operas at Covent
(iarden Theatre, iii. 237.

Pynson, Richard, |irinter, i. 49, 50.

"Pyx, Chapel of the." {See West-
minster Abbey.)

O.

QuacR doctors, vi. 75.
" Quadrantes ;" Squares, iv. 326.
Quadrilles, at " Almack's," iv. ig8.
Quails imported from Egypt, ii. 496.
" Quaker " Tavern, (ireat Sanctuary,

Westminster, iii. 488.
Quarritch, bookseller, iv. 254.
Quarterly Kevieu', iv. 293.
"Quays, Legal," vi. 141.
Quebec Institute, iv. 423.
Quebec Street ; (Quebec Chapel, iv. 409.
Queen Anne .Street, iv. 447 ; Richard

Cumberland, 448; Turner; Euscli ;

Lord Cottenham ; I'rincc Esterhazy ;

I'urkc; Chandos House, ib.
"Queen Anne's Bounty," iii. 482.
Queen Anne's Gate, Westminster, iv.

41 ; Mission Hall ; Residence of
Jeremy Bentham, 42.

Queen Elizabeth's College, Greenwich,
vi. 194.

Queen Elizabeth's Walk, Stoke Newing-
ton, v. 536.

Queenhithe ; tolls given to Eleanor,
queen of Henry II.; Eleanor, queen
of Edward I., ii. 19 ; corn-ware-
house, 181.

Queen Square, Bloomsbury, iv. 4S3,
554; statue of Queen Anne ; Church
of St. George the Martyr ; charitable
institutions ; Dr. Stukeley, ib.

Queen Square, Westminster, iv. 41,
42.

Queen Street, Cheapside, i. 352.

Queen Street, Mayfair, iv. 353.

Queen Victoria Street, iii. 324.

" Queen's Arms," Newgate Street, ii.
430-

"Queen's Arms," St. Paul's Church-
yard, i. 267.

" Queen's Arms," Cheapside, i. 341.

Queensberry, Duke and Duchess of, iv.

305-

Queensberry, Duke of (" Old Q."), iv.
2S6, 334; V. 131.

Queensberry House, iv. 305.

Queen's College for Ladies, iv. 450.

" Queen's Elm" Hotel, Brompton, v. 88.

"Queen's Head and Artichoke"
Tavern, v. 255.

" Queen's Head " Tavern, Islington, ii.
260.

Queen's messengers, i. 300.

Queen's Park, Paddington, v. 228.

" Queen's Pipe," London Docks, ii. 125.

Queen's Road, Chelsea, v. S3 ; Earl of
Radnor ; Charles II. ; Dr. Mead ;
Dr. Blackwell ; Victoria Hospital
for Sick Children ; Guards' Bar-
racks, tb.

Queen's Road, Peckham, vi. 286.

Queen's .Scholars, iii. 465.

Queen's Theatre, Long' Acre, iii. 270.

Queen's Wardrobe, Watling Street, i.

.551-
Quick, comedian, ii. 263.
Quin, comedian, ii. 172 ; iii. 28, 221.

R.

Races, iv. 15 ; v. 182, 320, 455 ; vi. 242.
"Rack-punch," Vauxhall Gardens, vi.

458.
Rackstraw s Museum, Fleet Street, i.

45-
Radcliffc, Dr., ii. 173, 433; iii. 143,

212, 273 ; iv. 538; V. 143.
Kadcliffe, E. Dehne, iv. 326.
R.idnor House, iv. 184.
Kafflingshops, v. 471.
" Rag and I'amish ;" Army and Navy

Club, iv. 145.
Rag Fair, Rosemary Lane, ii. 144.
Rag-shops, vi. 164.
Rahere. (.See Rayer.)
Railw.ay Benevolent Institution, v. 347.
Railway Clearing House, v. 346.
Railway mania, i. 486.
Railway signals, v. 229, 230.
"Rainbow" Tavern, Fleet Street; early

sale of coffee, i. 44.
Rainforth, MIns, vctcalisl, iv. 193.
Raleigh, Sir Waller, i. 357 ; ii. 71, 93,

260 ; iii. 22, 489, 566, 569 ; vi. 173.
Ram Alley, I'lccl Sireel, now Hare

Place. {See Hare I'l.ace.)

Ramsay, Allan, iv. 449.

Ramsay, Davy ; digging for treasure,
i. 129.

Randal, Jack, pugilist, i. 83.

Ranelagh Gardens, v. 71 ; Ranelagh
House ; Lord Ranelagh, //'. ; the
Rotunda, 76 ; masquerades, 77, 81 ;
firew^orks ; lake and boats ; music,
lb. ; Jubilee masquerade, 78 ; royal
and noble visitors, 80 ; Dr. John-
son ; Goldsmith ; regatta on the
Tliames, ib. ; Pic-nic Society, 81 ;
Garnerin's balloon ; ball given by
Knights of the Bath ; entertain-
ment by Spanish Ambassador, //'. ;
demolition of the place, 82 ; French
" Ranelagh," Paris, ib.

Ranelagh House, Fulham ; Lord Rane-
lagh, vi. 524.

Rann, Jack, " Sixteen-string Jack," ii.
484 ;_ v. 194.

Rapliael's cartoons, iv. 64.

Rastell, John, printer, i. 351.

Ratcliff Highway, ii. 134; Ratciiff
Cross ; -wild beast shops ; Marr and
A\'illiamson families murdered, ib. ;
Swedish Church ; burial-place of
Swedenborg, 135, 13S.

Rathbone Place, iv. 406, 469 ; Captain
Rathbone ; Percy Chapel ; Flaxman ;
Blake ; " Percy Anecdotes," ('/'. ;
Hone, R.A., 470; E. H. Bailey,
R.A. ; De Wint ; Baron Maseres, ib.

Rats, Tame, iv. 479.

Ravensbourne, The, vi. 143, 144, 145,
244 ; Deptford Bridge ; Deptford
Creek ; source of the stream ; origin
of its name ; Wat Tyler ; Jack Cade ;
Perkin Warbeck, ib.

Ravenscourt Park, Hammersmith, vi.

534-

Ravenscroft, Messrs., wig-makers, iii. 26.

Ray, John, naturalist, iv. 257.

Ray, Miss, ii. 334; iii. 260, 385; v. 193.

Ray Street, Clerkenwell ; the Clerk's
Well, ii. 335.

Rayer, founder of St. Bartholomew's
priory, Smithfield, ii. 342, 358.

Raymond, Lord, iv. 548.

Read, Miss Angelina ; " haunted
houses," Stamford Street, Black-
friars Ro.ad, vi. 382.

Recamier, Madame, v. 158.

Keconi Newspaper, i. 53.

Record Office, i. loi.

Records, Public; "Domesday Book,"
i. loi ; iii. 454.

"Red Bull" Theatre, Clerkenwell;
Pe|))s ; Edward .Mleyn, ii. 337 ;
iii. 219.

" Red Ci\\ Mother," v. 310, 311.

"Red Cow "Inn, Hammersmith, vi.530.

Redcross Street ; Dr. Williams's Free
Library, ii. 239; iv. 570.

"Red liouse," Battersea ; pigeon-
shooting, vi. 476.

Red Lion Almshouses, W'estminster,
iv. 21.

Red Linn Court, Fleet Street ; Valpy's
" Delphin Classics," i. 108.

"Red Lion" Inn, Chiswick ; whet-
stone chained lo the door, vi. 557.

"Red Lion" Inn, ll.ampstead ; singular
tenui'e, v. 4S5.

"Red Lion" Inn, Iligligate, v. 418.

" Red Lion " Inn, Kensington, v. r24.

Red Lion Square, iv. 545 ; its early
state; "Red Lyon''' Imi : "Blue
Fluwcr Pot ;" burial of the regi-

GENERAL INDEX.

6lQ

cides; Cromwell, ;'/'. ,• obelisk, 546;
Wilkes, 548 ; Lord Raymond ;
Jonas Hanway ; Sharon Turner ;
Sheriffs C'ourt, ili. ; charitable
societies ; Milton, 549.

Red Lion Street, Clerkenwell, ii. 323 ;
Wildman, owner of " Kclipse ;"
"Jerusalem" Tavern ; John Britton;
Dr. Triisler, ib.

Red Lion Street, liolborn, iv. 550.

" Red Lion " Tavern, West Street ;
thieves' resort ; murders, ii. 426.

" Red Lyon " Inn, Holborn. (iV^Red
Lion Square.)

" Redriflf." (See Rotherhithe.)

Reeve, John, comedian, v. 26.

Reeve, .Mrs., actress, iv. 62.

Reform Bill ricts, i. 116 ; iii. 389.

Reform Club, iv. 148 ; ^L Soyer ; the
kitchen, 149.

Refuge for the Destitute, v. 529.

Regalia in the Tower, ii. 77 ; its con-
veyance to the House of Lords, iii.
528. (&? Blood, Colonel.)

Regent Square, iv. 573 ; Scotch Pres-
byterian Church ; Rev. Edward
Irving ; St. Peter's Church, 576.

Regent Street, Lower, iv. 208 ; Gallery
of Illustration, ib. ; St. Philip's
Chapel, ib. ; County Fire Office,
345 ; Regent Street, 249; Quadrant,
250 ; Tenison's and Hanover
Chapels, 251 ; St. James's Hall, 254.

Regent Street, Westminster, iv. 9.

Regent's Canal, v. 219, 268, 29S.

Regent's Park, v. 263 ; Marylebone
Park Fields ; manor of Marylebone ;
royal hunting-ground ; deer and
timber ; estate disparked ; let on
lease ; successive holders ; Duke of
Portland ; park laid out and built
by Nash ; extent ; Broad Walk, ib. ;
ornamental water, 265 ; aquatic
birds ; skating ; fatal accident, ib.;
flower-beds, 266 ; drinking-fountain ;
Sunday bands ; Ulster, Cornwall,
and Hanover Terraces ; Sussex
Place, ib. ; Kent Terrace, 267 ; the
Holme ; St. John's Lodge ; St.
Dunstan's Villa ; clock and giants
from St. Dunstan's Church ; South
Villa, ib. ; Regent's Canal, 268 ;
explosion of gunpowder ; Holford
House ; distinguished residents in
the Park; Park .Square, ib. ; the
Diorama and Colosseimi, 269 ; St.
Katharine's Collegiate Church and
Master's house, 273 : Sir Herbert
Taylor, 275 ; .St. Andrew's Place ;
Adult Orphan Asylum ; Chester
Terrace ; Chester Place ; Stockleigh
House; Mrs. t'ltzherbert's Villa,//!./
Toxopholite Society's Gardens, 276 ;
Royal Botanic Society's Gardens,
279; Zoological Gardens, 263, 28 1.

Regicides, Trial and execution of the,
ii. 467 ; iii. 128 ; iv. 545 ; v. 198 ;

vi. 552-

"Rejected Addresses," by James and
Horace Smith, ii. 167; iii. 225, 232;
vi. 281, 393.

Relics at Westminster .'\bbey, iii. 404.

Relics of saints in St. Paul's, i. 239.

Re-marriage in Bermondsey Church,
vi. 121.

Rennie, John, F.R.S.,i. 545; ii. 15, 123.

Reporters' Gallery, House of Com-
mons, iii. 320, 512; parl'amentary
reporting, i. 140.

Reviews of troops and volunteers, iv.

3S8, 389 ; vi. 500.
Reynolds, Sir Joshua, P.R.A., i. 253,

345: iii. 147,159, 166; iv. 235, 461.
Rhodes's .Mews, iv. 483.
Ricardo, David, Stock Exchange, i. 486.
Riccard. Sir Andrew, ii. no, 112.
Rich, Henry, Earl of Holland, v. 118.
Rich, John, manager of Covcnt Garden

Theatre, iii. 28, 224, 227, 22S, 230 ;

iv. 125.
Richard I., ii. 107,404; iii. 401,404, 567.
Richard IL, i. 551 ; ii. 17 ; iii. 308,

422, 442, 544 ; V. 429 ; vi. 8, 225.
Richard HI., i. 284, 394, 518; ii. 17,

155, 240.
Richardson's "Pamela "and " Clarissa

Harlowe," i. 143, 144, 145 ; iv.
. 243 ; V. 460 ; vi. 527.
Richardson's Theatre, vi. 275-
Richborough, i. 18.
Richmond, Charles, Duke of; school

of art ; Richmond House, iii. 378.
Richmond, Duchess of ; " La Belle

Stewart;" Charles II., iv. 109.
Richmond, Lewis, Duke of, iii. 437.
Richmond, Jlargaret, Countess of, iii.

439-
Richmond Terrace ; Richmond House,

iii. 377-

Riding-house, Hyde Park, iv. 395.

Riding House Street, iv. 458.

Ridley, Bishop of London, i. 243 ; ii. 70.

" Ritlotto al fresco," Vauxhall Gar-
dens, vi. 452, 454.

Riots, i. 179, 189, 305, 309, 410; ii.
152 ; iv. 21S, 224, 305, 405. (Sei
" Evil ^lay Day," Gordon and Re-
form Bill riots.)

Ripley, Thomas, architect, i. 370.

Ripon ; F. Robinson, Lord Goderich,
Earl of ; corn-law riots, iv. 305.

Rippon, Rev. Dr., vi. 107.

River-wall, Roman, ii. 34, 53.

Rivinglon and Sons, Messrs., book-
sellers, i. 268.

Roberts, David, R.A., iv. 461.

" Robin Redbreasts ;" Bow Street
officers, iii. 272.

Robins, George, auctioneer, i. 522 ; iii.
255 ; V. 221.

Robinson, Anastasia (Countess of Peter-
borough), vi. 520.

Robinson, "Long" Sir Thomas, iii. 377 ;

iv. 359-
Robinson, Mrs. ("Perdita"), iii. 212,

221 ; iv. 98, 170, 238 ; v. 94.
Robson, Frederick, comedian, ii. 227.
Rochester, Earl of, ii. 98.
Rochester Row, Westminster, iv. 10 ;

Almshouses, Palmer's Village, iv. 40.
Rodney, Admiral Lord, i. 251 ; iv. 315.
Roehampton, vi. 500.
Rogers, Rev. John, ii. 340, 482.
Rogers, Samuel, i. 113, 178; iii. 123;

iv. 172, 202, 311 ; V. 164, 172, 173,

176, 532; vi. 2C0 ; his tomb in

Hornsey churchyard, v. 433.
RoUe, Lord ; coronation of Queen

Victoria, iii. 41 1.
Rolls Chapel, i. 76.
Rolls, Charles, engraver, v. 314.
Rolls Court ; Masters of the Rolls, i.

76—80.
Romaine, Rev. Wm., i. 47 ; iv. 20.
Roman antiquities, i. 226, 236, 362,

505, 531, 557; ii- 34, 52, 93, 146,
149, 166, 277, 417, 526; iv. 523;
V. 342, 531; vi. 341.

Roman baths, Strand Lane, iii. 77.

Roman bridge over the Thames, ii. 9.

Roman Catholic Cathedral, St. George's
Fields, vi. 362, 364.

Roman Catholic residents in London ;
statistics, vi. 570.

Roman London, i. 17; Ca?sar's inva-
sion ; name of London, 19 ; " Lon-
dinium ;" first mentionetl, 19 ; city
burned by Boadicea, 20 ; wall built
by Constantine, 20 ; Watling Street,
20 ; Roman wall and towers, 20,
21 ; cemeteries, 21 ; tessellale 1 pave-
ments, 21 ; bronze statues, 21 ;
silver and jjold ornaments, pottery,
coins, and baths, 22; " Via Trino-
bantina;" Watling Street, iv. 376.

Roman pavements. {See Pavements,
Roman.)

Roman salt-pits, i. 548.

Roman wall on Tower Hill, ii. 1 14.

Romilly, Sir Samuel, iii. 192.

Romney, George, iv. 446; v. 15S, 464.

Romney House, St. James's Square,
iv. 183.

Romney Street, Westminster, formerly
" Vine Street ; " vineyards, iv. 4.

Rookery in the Temple Gardens, i. 171.

" Rookery," St. Giles's; "Holy Land;"
" Little Dublin ;" low lodging-
houses, iv. 484, 4S8.

" Rookery, The," Westminster, iv. 40.

Rooks' nests in Cheapside, i. 364.

Rope-dancing at Soutiiwark Fair, vi. 59.

Roper, Margaret, ii. 14 ; v. 57, 59 ;
vi. 243.

Roque, Bartholomew, florist, vi. 526.

" Rosamund's Bower," residence of T.
Crofton Croker, vi. 51S.

Rosamond's Pond, iv. 49.

Roscoe, William, ii. 531.

"Rose and Crown" Inn, Knights-
bridge, V. 30.

"Rose and Crown" Tavern, Stoke
Newington, v. 538.

" Rose" Inn, Holborn Hill, ii. 531.

Rose, Lord Mayor ; banquet to Prince,
and Princess of Wales, i. 416.

" Rose, Manor of the," St. Lawrence,
Poulteney, ii. 28.

"Rose of Normandy" public-house,
Marylebone; bowling-green; Nancy
Dawson, iv. 429.

" Rose " sponging house. Wood Street,
i. 369.

Rose .Street, Long Acre, iii. 264 ; " Red
Rose Street ;" Samuel Butler ; Dry-
den ; "Rose" Tavern; "Treason"
Club; Curll: the " Pope's Head,";/'.

Rose Street, Soho, iii. 196.

" Rose " Tavern, Russell Street, iii. 278.

Rose Theatre, Bankside, vi. 50.

Rosemary, an emblem of remembrance,
vi. 287.

" Rosemary Branch" Tavern, Peckham,
ib.

Rosemary Lane, ii. 144.

Ross, Bishop of, imprisoned in the
Tower, ii. 70.

Ross, Mother, v. 94.

Ross, Sir W. C, A.R.A., iv. 473 ; v.
408.

Rossiter, aeronaut, v. 310.

Rosslyn, Earl of (Lord Loughborough) ;
his character, v. 489.

Rota Club, ili. 538.

Rotherhithe, " Redriff, " vi. 134; "Red
Rose Haven ;" historical notes ;
Lovcl familv, ib.; fires, 135 ; "Half-

OLD AXD NEW LONDON.

way House ;" Mill Pond ; vine-
yards, il>.; Southwark Park, 136;
market-gardens; "China Mall"
Tavern; theatre; "Dog and Duck"
Tavern ; parish church ; Prince Lee
Tioo, ib.; Union Road, 137; churches;
Deptford Lower Road; Free School;
Ijoard schools, ilf. ; St. Helena Tea
Gardens, 13S; Thames Tunnel and
Railway, 139; Docks, 140 ; "Legal
(Juays," and "Sufferance Wharfs,"
141; "Cuckold's Point;" "Horn
Fair ;" legend of King John, 142.

Rothschild ; derivation of tlie name, iii.
254.

Rothschild family, i. 466, 4S2 ; iv.
457 ; mansions in Piccadilly, 285.

Rotten Row, iv. 386, 39S.

Rotunda, Blackfriars Road, vi. 382.

Roubiliac, sculptor, iii. 159, 428, 447 ;
iv. 267 ; vi. 472.

" Round House," St. Giles's, iii. 209.

Roupell, WilHam, M.P., vi. 425.

Rousby, Mrs., actress, iii. 270.

Rouse, Tlionras; " Eagle " Tavern, City
Road, ii. 227.

Rousseau, iii. 296 ; vi. 560.

Rowe, Nicholas, iii. 83 ; iv. 15S ; v. 422.

Rowley, William ; Forliine by Land and
Sea ; execution of pirates, ii. 135.

Rowley's comedy, A Woman Never
Vexl, i. 225.

Roxburgh, John, third Duke of, iv. iSS.

Ro.\l)urglie Club, iv. 1S8, 295.

Royal Academy, iii. 93, 146 ; its origin
and history ; Kneller ; Thornhill ;
the Academy in St. Martin's Lane, il>.;
Hogarth, 147; Society of Arts ; Ex-
hibitions in Spring Gardens ; in Pall
Mall; the "Instrument" signed by
George HL ; rules ; Reynolds, ib.;
succeeding Presidents, 14S ; removal
to Burlington House, 149 ; iv. 266,
272.

Royal Academy of Music, iv. 320.

Royal Agricultural .Society, iv. 317.

Royal Albert Hall, v. 112.

Royal Alfred Tlieatre, Marylebone, v.

259-

Royal Alms, Distribution of; "Maun
day " money, iii. 36S.

Royal Aquarium, Westminster, iv. 20.

Royal Arcade, New Oxford .Street, iv.
487.

Royal Asiatic Society, iv. 296.

Royal Astronomical Society, iv. 272.

Royal Botanic (iarden, Chelsea, v. 68.

Royal Botanic Society, v. 279 ; gardens
in the Regent's Park, ])lanted by
Robert Marnock, //'.; rare trees and
plants, v. 280 ; herbaceous garden ;
medical garden ; orchid house ; con-
servatory, //'.

Royal Court Theatre, v. 95.

Royal Dock, Deptford. (See Deptford.)

Royal Exchange, i. 346 ; the Old Ex-
change; Gresham family; .SirThomas
Grcsham, 494; firU "Bourse," 495;
shops in the Exchange ; visit of
Queen Elizabeth, 496 ; hawkers and
loungers, 497 ; L.ady (Iresliani, 498 ;
Evelyn's description, 500 ; Great
Fire of London ; Plague ; Pepys, ib.;
New Exchange ; erected by Jerman ;
described, 501 ; statues by Cibber,
502 ; milliner's shops, 503 ; cost of
building ; clock and cliimes ; burnt
down (1838), ;/'.,• Sir William Tite's
design, 505 ; first stone laid liy Prince

Albert ; opened by Queen Victoria,
506 ; present building described ;
statues, clock, bells, chimes, 507 ;
"New Exchange," or "Britain's
Burse," in the .Strand, opened by
James I., iii. 104.

Royal Exchange Assurance Company,
i. 50S.

Royal Horticultural Society, v. :i6;
gardens ; conservatory ; statue of the
Prince Consort, ib. ; gardens and
fetes at Chiswick, vi. 566.

Royal Humane Society, iii. 292 ; iv.
402; V. 21; vi. 377.

Royal Infirmary for Children and Wo-
men, Waterloo Road, vi. 409.

Royal Institute of British Architects, iv.

323-

Royal Institution, iv. 296, 297.

Royal Italian Opera House, iii. 234-236.

Royal Literary Fund, iv. 543.

Royal London Ophthalmic Hospital,
ii. 206.

Royal London Yacht Club, iv. 309.

Royal Jlint Street, formerly Rosemary
Lane, ii. 144.

Royal Naval School, Cambervvell, re-
moved to New Cross, vi. 247, 2S5.

Royal Observatory, Greenwich, vi. 212 ;
tower built by Humphrey, Duke of
Gloucester; Henry VIIL; Queen
Elizabeth ; the longituae ; M. de
St. Pierre's proposal ; Flamsteed ap-
pointed "Astronomical Observator, "
ib.; Observatory erected, 213, 214 ;
Flamsteed's observations ; " mural
arc ;" catalogue of stars ; his pupils ;
quarrel with Newton ; his death, ib,;
Haliey, 215 ; transit instrument ;
mural quadrant ; Dr. Br,adley ; Dr.
Bliss; Dr. Maskelyne; Natitical Al-
manac; Royal .Society ; John Pond ;
Sir G. B. Airy, ib. ; electric clock ;
public barometer ; yard measure,
216 ; transit circle, transit instru-
ment, and transit clock, 218; altazi-
muth; lunar observations, 219; great
equ.atorial telescope ; magnetic ob-
servatory, 220 ; anemometers, or
wind-gauges, 222 ; time signal-ball.

Royal Palace of Justice. (See Law
Courts.

Royal Park Theatre, Camden Town,

V. 3>o-

Royal Polytechnic Institution, iv. 454.

Royal .Society, i. 104 ; origin and
history ; removal to Crane Court,
105 ; first catalogue of museum ;
satirised by Butler and .Swift, ib. ;
dispute on lightning-conductors, 106;
Sir Hans Sloane and Dr. Wood-
ward, 107 ; house in Crane Court,
105, 106, 108 ; Somerset House,
iii. 74, 94; iv. 267; V. 70; removal
to Burlington ILiuse, iv. 269.

Royal .Society of Literature, iii. 154.

Royal Society of Musicians, iv. 317.

Royal State P.arge, iii. 337; vi. 197.

Royal swanhcrd, iii. 303.

Royal Thames Yacht Club, vi. 196.

Royal Veterinary College, v. 322.

Royalty Tlieatre, ii. 146 ; iii. 194 ;
rebuilt ; f.ill of the roof, ib.

Rubeus, iii. 366 ; vi. 174.

" Rufllers" of Lincoln's Inn Fields, iii.

45-
Runilord, Count, v. 26.
" Rump, The," iii. 526.
Rundell and jiridge, goldsmiths, i. 22S.

Rundell, Mrs., her "Art of Cookery,''

i. 229 ; iv. 293.
"Running Footman" Tavern, iv. 334,
Rupert, Prince, i. 37 ; ii. 224 ; iv. 378,

549 ; vi. 560.
Rush, Mr., Minister from the United

States, iii. 410 ; iv. 410; v. 173.
Ruskin, Professor, ii. 33.
Russell, Earl, iv. 344, 353.
Russell Institution, Great Coram Street,

iv. 574.
Russell, Lady Rachel, iv. 536, 537.
Russell, Lord William, ii. 75, 467 ; iii.

45 ; iv. 537, 538-

Russell Place, I" itzroy .Square, iv. 474.

Russell Square, iv. 483 ; Baltimore
House; John Wilson Croker, 4S4;
"Judge-land," 564 ; statue of
Francis, fifth Duke of Bedford,
565 ; Duke of Bolton, 566 ; Lord
Loughborough ; Sir Samuel Rom-
illy ; Lord Tenterden ; Justice
Holroyd ; Lord Denman ; Justice
Talfourd ; Sir Thomas Lawrence,
ib.

Russell Street, Bermondsey ; Richard
Russell, his wealth and will, \i. 124.

Russell Street, Covent Garden, iii. 275 ;
Tom Davies, bookseller ; Johnson
and Boswell ; Foote ; coffee-houses ;
"Will's," ib. ; "Button's," 277,
280, 281 ; "Tom's, "278 ; " Shake-
speare's Head ;" Beefsteak Club ;
"Rose" Tavern, ib. ; "Albion"
Tavern, 279 ; Evelyn ; Gibbon ;
"Harp" Tavern ; "The City of
Lushington Society," ib.

Russian ambassador, The first, ii. 175 ;
v. 550.

Rutland Gate ; Sheepshanks Gallery,
V. 25, 26.

RutuptL«, the ancient Richborou':;h,i. i8.

Ruvigny, Marquis de ; Huguenot
refugees, vi. 191, 193.

Ryan, comedian, iii. 212.

Rye House Plot, v. 18.

Ryland, engraver, executed for forgery,
v. 47.

Rysbrack, sculptor, iii. 419, 425 ; iv.
87. 430,435. 442; V. 68, 141.

S.

"Sablonniere Hotel," iii. 167.

Sacheverell, Dr. Henry, ii. 316, 506;
V. 423.

SackviUe Street, iv. 308; "The Prince"
Inn ; Board of Agriculture ; chari-
table institutions, tb.

Sackville, Thomas; his "Mirror for
Magistrates," i. 198.

.Saddlers' Company and Hall, i. 341 ;
embroidered pall, ii. 6.

" S.addling the spit," iii. 34.

Sadleir, John, .M.P. ; his frauds and
suicide, v. 455.

Sadler's Wells, ii. 285,289; "Isling-
ton .Spa ;" Sadler ; burlestpie poems,
290 ; visit of royal princesses ; the
theatre ; water-pieces ; New River ;
fatal acciilenl, //'. ; Macklin, 291 ;
Ned Ward ; Hogarth's picture,
" Evening," ib. ; new theatre, 292 ;
King, comedian ; Mrs. Bland ;
Bologna; Braham ; Miss Richer;
Grimaldi, /A. ; Mrs. Siddons, 293 ;
the Dibdins ; Belzoni ; visit of
Queen Canilinc, ib. ; T. P. Cooke,
294; Samuel Phelps; "Sir Hugh

GENERAL INDEX.

621

Myddelton " Tavern, il/.; Rosoman ;
old picture, 295.

Saffron Hill, ii. 542.

" Sail-cloth Permits," a bubble com-
pany, i. 539.

Sailmakers' Almshouses, Tottenham, v.

557- .. ^

Sailors' Home, Bethnal Green, 11. 146.

Sailors' Orphan Girls' School, Uamp-
stead, V. 4S3.

St. Alban's Church, Wood Street, i.
365 ; epitaphs, 367 ; hour-glass, 368.

St. Albans, Harriet, Uuchessof, iii. 105,
221 ; iv. 280 ; V. 398.

St. Alphage Church, London Wall, ii.
232.

St. jVlphejje, Archbishop, murdered at
Greenwich, vi. 165 ; St. Alphege
Church, Greenwich, 191.

St. Andrew's Church, Holborn, ii. 503 ;
church in 1297 ; changes of owner-
ship ; dissolution of monasteries ;
rebuilt by Wren; interior described,
ib. ; alterations in 1872, 505 ; old
organ, Ijy Harris ; interments ; John
Emery, comedian, I'i. ; Dr. Sache-
verell, 506 ; registers ; banns of
marriage published in the market-
place ; marriage of S.r Edward
Coke, !/i. ; his wife. Lady Elizabeth
Hatton, 507 ; marriage of Colonel
Hutchinson and Lucy Apsley ; their
romantic marriage, li. ; Richard
Savage christened, 510 ; burial of
Chatterton and Henry Neele ; John
Webster, dramatist, parish clerk,
id. ; burial of Tomkins, executed
for Waller's plot, 510 ; William
Whiston, 512 ; Bishops Hacket and
Stillingfleet ; Rev. Charles Barton,

S'3-

St. Andrew s Church, Stockwell, vi.329.

St. Andrew's Church, Well Street,
Oxford Street, iv. 464.

St. Andrew Undershaft Church, ii.
191 ; ancient maypole ; Herrick's
lines, il>. ; maypole denounced and
destroyed, 192 ; old books ; monu
ment of Stow, 193.

St. Andrew's Wardrobe Church, i. 302,

303-
St. Anne-in-the-\\ illows, ^\ cod Street,

i- 371-
St. Anne's Cliurch, Blackfriars ; inter-
ments of Vandyck, Oliver, and
Faithorne, i. 302.

St. Anne's, Soho ; formation of the
parish, iii. 160 ; the church, iSi ;
interments ; Lord Camelford ; Theo-
dore, King of Corsica, 1S2.

St. Anne's Church, Wandsworth, vi. [484.

St. Anne's Lane, Westminster, iv. ^S ;
Sir Roger de Coverley, 39.

St. Ann's Society, Royal Asylum, Brix-
ton, vi. 319.

St. Anne's Well, Hyde Park, iv. 393.

St. Antholin's Church ; epitaphs ; bells ;
seditious preachers, i, 552, 553-

St. Anthony's Free School, Thread-
needle Street, i. 274, 537.

St. Augustine's Church, Watling Street,

i- 349> 551-
St. Barnabas Church, Pimlico, v. 42.
St. Barnabas Church, Rotherhithe, vi.

137-
St. Bartholomew- the-Great, Smithfield,
ii. 269 ; limits of the Priory ; its
privileges, 351 ; revenues, 352 ;
iarly seals ; ruins of the priory ;

refectory ; crypt ; prior's house, //'. ;
present church, 353 ; monuments,
354 ; Bishop Walden ; Dr. Anthony,

356.

St. Bartholomew thc-Less, Smithfield;
old monuments and epitaphs, ii. 358.

St. Bartholomew's Church, Royal Ex-
change, i. 524.

St. I'.artholomew's Hospital, ii. 359 ;
early history ; presidency of the
Royal Hospitals; Thomas Vicary,
first superintendent, 360 ; Dr. Har-
vey ; great quadr.rngle rebuilt, //'. ;
museum, 361; theatres; library;
Dr. Abernethy, ifi. ; Percival Pott,
362 ; great staircase ; painting by
Hogarth ; "view day;" Dr. Askew,
i'/k ; Dr. Jeaffreson, 363.

St. Benedict ; Benedictine monasteries,
iii. 451.

St. Benet's Church, Paul's Wharf, ii.
35, 36.

St. Benet Fink Church, i. 531.

St. Bennet Sherehog Church, i. 352,
55S.

St. Botolph s Church, Aldersgate Street,
ii. 221.

St. Botolph's Church, Bishopsgate ;
tomb of Sir Paul Pindar, ii. 159.

St. Bride's Church, i. 55, 56.

St. Bride's Passage, i. 146.

St. Bride's Street, i. 129.

St. Catherine Coleman Church, Fen-
church Street, ii. 176.

St. Catherine Cree Church; ii. 189; mo-
rality plays ; flower sermon, 190.

St. Cecilia, Feast of ; Dryden's odes, i.

231-
St. Chad's Church, Nichols Square, v.
506.

St. Chad's Well. Battle Bridge, ii. 27S.

St. Christop'icr-h-Stock's Church ; site
of the Bank of England, i. 469, 514.

St. Clement Danes ; traditional ac-
counts, iii. 1 1 ; former and present
churches, i/>. : Dr. Johnson's pew,
14 ; fire in the vaults ; interments —
Rymer, Otway, Nathaniel Lee, //'. ;
marriage of Sir Thomas Grosvenor ;
registers, 15 ; baptism of Cecil ; his
character, //'. ,' a walk round the
parish, 16 — 32 ; population, 24.

St. Clement's Church, Clement's Lane,
i. 52S.

St. Clement's Lane. {S(e Clement's
Lane.)

St. Clement's Well, Strand, iii. 21.

St. Columba's Church, Kingsland Road,

V- 525-

St. Dionis Church, Fenchurch Street ;
syringes for extinguishing fires, ii.
176.

St. Dunstan's Church, Heet Street, i.
47 ; famous incumbents ; Cowper's
lines ; figure of Queen Elizabeth ;
monument to Hobson Judkins ; re-
markable burials, ii. ; clock and
giants, V. 267.

St. Dunstan's Club, i. 44.

St. Dunstan's Feast of the Goldsmiths'
Company, i. 356, 35S.

St. Dunstan-in-the-East Church, ii.
113, 114; rebuilt by Wren; again
rebuilt by Laing ; registers ; Fuller's
memory, i/'.

St. Dunstan's Villa, Regent's Park, v.
267 ; clock and giants from St.
Dunstan's Church ; Marquis of
Hertford, id.

St. Edmund King and Martyr Church,

Lombard Street, i. 527.
St. Edward's Convent, v. 260.
St. Floy; "Loy's Well, Tottenham,"

V. 561.
St. Erkenwald, Bishop of London, i.

23'"', 237, 239.
St. Ethelburga's Church, Bishopsgate,

ii. 159.
St. Etheldreda's Chapel, Ely Place, ii.

525-
St. Evremond, "governor" of "Duck

Island," iv. 50 ; v. 126.
St. Gabriel's Church, Pimlico, iv. 40.
St. George, Sir Henry, Clarencieux, i.

296.
St. George's Barracks, iii. 149.
St. George's Church, Bloomsbury, iv.

544- , .

St. George's Church, Camberwell, vi.
274.

St. George's Church, Hanover Square ;
fashionable weddings, iv. 321.

St. George's Church, Southwark, vi.
71 ; curfew bell, 72.

St. George's Club, iv. 309.

St. George's Fields, vi. 341 ; Roman
remains ; marshes ; Lambeth Marsh ;
Marsh Gate; drainage; inundations;
Canute's Trench, i/>. ; restoration of
Charles H., 342 ; refuge from the
Great Fire ; show-vans; field-
preachers, ill. ; Chequer Mead, 343 ;
St. George's Dunghill ; archery ;
"Apollo Gardens;" "Dog and
Duck," tb. ; St. George's Spa, 344 ;
fort; grinning match; "Wilkes
and Liberty " mobs, il>. ; Gordon
Riots, 345-34S ; Protestant Asso-
ciation ; Lord George Gordon, ili. ;
Magdalen Hospital, 348, 349 ; Pea-
body Buildings, 350 ; Female Or-
phan Asylum ; Freemasons' Charity
School ; Philanthropic Society's
School ; School for the Indigent
Blind ; St. George's Circus ; obelisk
to Brass Crosby, ib. ; Bethlehem
Hospital, 351-361 ; King Edward's
School, 361 ; Christ Church, 362 ;
Hawkstone Hall ; Roman Catholic
Cathedral of St. George, ib. ; School
for the Indigent Blind, 364 ; British
and Foreign School Society ; Joseph
Lancaster, 365 ; National Society,
366.

St. George's Hospital, v. 4, 5.

St. George's Square, Pimlico, iv. 40.

St. George's Terrace, Primrose Hill, v.
6, 291.

St. George the Martyr Church, Queen
Square, Bloomsbury ; burial ground,

"■ 554- . , . ,

St. Giles, the patron samt of cripples,

vi. 269.

St. Giles's Church, Camberwell, vi.
273, 274 ; old and new churches ;
destruction of the old church by
fire ; monuments ; interments, ib.

St. Giles's Church, Cripplegate, h. 229;
monuments to Speed, Constance
and Margaret Whitby, and Fro-
bisher, 230; Milton's burial and dis-
interment, ib. ; Fox, martyrologist,
221 ; marriage of Cromwell ; part
of London wall, 232.

St. Giles's-in-the-Fields, iii. 197 ; St.
Giles ; Queen Matilda ; lepers' hos-
pital ; village in early times, ib. ;
stone cross, 198 ; growth of the

622

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

parish, 200 ; gallows ; criminars
last drink ; "TlieBowl;" "Bowl
Alley;" "Tlia Angel;" execu-
tions ; cage and pound, ib. ; alms-
houses, 20I ; vineyard ; past and
present church ; inlerments and
epitaphs ; burial of the Earl of Der-
wentwater ; " Resurrection Gate-
way," tb. ; bas-relief ; Church Lane,
202 ; Monmoutli Court ; Seven
Dials, 203 ; the poor, 206 ; Irish
immigrants, 207 ; old parish regula-
tions ; Denmark Street ; Lloyd's
Alley ; Brownlow Street ; Endell
Street, ib. ; the Plague ; Lewknor's
Lane, 20S ; coal-yard ; " Round
House," 209.
St. Giles's-in-the-Fields Cemetery, v.

335-

St. Gregory's Church in St. Paul's
Churchyard, i. 264, 265.

St. Helena Tea Gardens, Deptford
Road, vi. 13S.

St. Helen's Priory and Church, Bishops-
gate, ii. 154; crypt; monuments;
tombs of Sn- Julius Ccesar, Sir John
Crosby ; Sir Thomas Gresham ; Sir
John Spencer ; charity-box ; restora-
tion of the church, ib.

St. James's Chapel, Pentonville ;
Francis Linley, organist ; altar-
piece by West, ii. 28b.

St. James's Chapel, St. James's Square,
iv. 203.

St. James's Church, Clerkenwell, ii.
338 ; the old church and monu-
ments ; Bishop Bell ; Lady Eliza-
beth Berkeley ; John Weever ; the
new church, ib.

St. James's Church, Garlick Hythe,
ii. 32 ; tomb of Richard Lions ;
Steele, on the Church Sen'ice, //'.

St. James's Church, Hampstead Road ;
Rev. Henry Stebbing; interments, v.
308.

St. James's Church, Piccadilly, iv. 255,
Wren ; font by Gibbons ; altar-
piece ; organ ; spire ; distinguished
rectors, ib. ; fire in the vaults, 256.

.St. James's Club, iv. 285.

St. James's Coffee House, iv. 153.

St. James's Fields, iv. 206, 235.

St. James's Hall, iv. 254.

St. James's Market, iv. 207.

St. James's Palace, iv. 100 ; Hospital
for Leprous Women ; endowments ;
grant of a fair ; hospital taken by
Henry VHI. ; palace built, ib. ;
gate-house, loi ; bell ; clock ; the
colour court ; proclamation of Queen
Victoria ; daily parade ; Chapel
Royal, lb. ; marri.ages of Queen
Anne, Frederick, Prince of Wales,
George IV., Queen Victori.a, and the
Princess Royal, 102; choir; "Gen-
tlemen and Children of the Chapel
Royal," 103; " spur-money, " 104 ;
Duke of Wellington ; est.iblishment
of chapel ; state apartments, :/'. ;
drawing-rooms, 105 ; Ambassadors'
Court ; royal library ; Lord Cham-
berlain's department ; Clarence
House, 106 ; Greek Church for
the Duchess of Edinburgh, 107 ;
chaplain's dinner, 109; "touching"
for the evil, no; George I., Ill ;
George II. ; Caroline, his Queen;
George III. ; riot ; fire, ;/'. ; Uuke
of Cumberland and his valet, Sellis,

113 ; kitchen in the time of George
III. ; drawing-room in the reign of
Queen Anne, ib. : sedan chairs,

114, 116; costumes; a modern
drawing-room, ib. ; John, Duke of
Marlborough, 117 ; Court influence
on fashion in dress, ib. ; Court tlress,

115, 119; hoops; silk stockings;
hair-powder ; wigs ; long and sliort
hair ; the farthingale ; lace collars,
ib. ; the Poet Laureate, 119; his
butt of sherry ; royal and court
patronaga of authors, ib.

St. James's Park, iv. 47 ; Storey's Gate,
ib. : Birdcage Walk ; Rosamond's
Pond, 49 ; Duck Island, 50 ; the
canal, 51; water-fowl, 52; peace
rejoicings and Chinese bridi^e, 53 ;
skating, 58 ; Horse Guards' Parade,
59 ; funeral of the Duke of Wel-
lington, //'. ,■ the Mall, 74 ; the
cows in " Milk Fair," 76.

St. James's Place ; Burdett ; Rogers,
iv. 170, 171.

St. James's Square, iv. 1S2 ; distin-
guished residents ; its fashionable
character; ".St. James's Fields;"
the square enclosed, ib. ; Norfolk
House, 182, 185 ; statue of William
III., 183; Johnson and Savage;
Ormonde House ; Romney House ;
fireworks, ib. ; Bristol House,
1S4; Radnor House; Erectheum
Club; "Moll Davis;" Arabella
Churchill ; Sir W.itkin Williams
Wynn, Bart. ; Winchester House,
ib. ; London House, i85 ; Roxburgh
Club, 188 ; bibliomania ; Windham
Club, ib. ; London Librar}^, 1S9 ;
Lichfield House ; Mrs. Boehn's
house, ib. ; East India United
Service Club, 190 ; Lady Francis ;
Queen Caroline; Lord Castlereagh;
Government offices, ii.

St. James's Street, iv. 152, 15S, 160,
164 ; clubs ; White's ; Brooks's,
153; Boodle's; St. James's Coff.-e
House, ib. ; "Thatched House"
Tavern, 154; Thatched House
Clul), 156 ; Egerton Club ; Con-
servative Clulj ; Arthur's, ib. ;
Cocoa Tree Club, 157; "Wits'
Coffee House," 158; " Fox Club "
and "Pitt Club," 159; New Uni-
versity Club, 160 ; Junior St.
James's Club ; Devonshire Club ;
Crockford's Club House, ib. ; Marl-
borough Club ; the " Poet's Head "
Tavern, 164; George IV. and Brum-
mell, 165 ; Fcnton's Hotel, 169, 206.

St. James's Theatre, iv. 191 ; Braham ;
French Plays, 193; Hooper; Ger-
man Opera, 194 ; Morris Barnctt ;
John .Mitchell, ib.

St. John of Jerusalem, Priory of. {.Set
St. John's (iate.)

St. John's Chapel, Chapel Street, Bed-
lord Row, iv. 551.

.St. John's Church, Clerkenwell ; crypt ;
Cock Lane (Jhost, ii. 316.

St. John's Churcli, Waterloo Road, vi.
410 ; tomb of Elliston, 41 1.

St. John's College, Baltersea ; Normal
School of the National Society, vi.
472.

St. John's Gate, ii. 310; Knight's Hos-
pitallers ; crusades, ib. ; rules of the
order, 31 1; creation of knights,
312; sanctuary, 31J; Priory of Si.

John of Jerusalem, 314 ; its wealth ;
priory churc!i, /'. ; historical scenes,
315; Tylney, M.aster of the Revels
to Queen Elizabeth, ib. ; the gate
built by Prior Docwra, 317 ; Cave's
printing-office; "Jerusalem" Ta-
vern ; Dr. Johnson ; Garrick, ib. ;
Johnson's chair, 318; remains of first
gatehouse, 319 ; Gentleman^ s Afaga^
zine, 320, 321 ; Urban Ckb, 321.

St. John's Lane, Clerkenwell ; the
"Old Bajjtist's Head," ii. 327.

St. John's Lodge, Regent's Park, v. 267.

St. John's Priory, Hackney, v. 513.

St. John's Square, Clerkenwell, ii. 323 ;
Father Corker's convent ; riots in
16S8 ; Lord Keeper North ; Dove's
" English Classics ; " Free-thinking
Christians' meeting-house, ib. ; Bur-
net House, 325 ; Bishop Burnet,
326 ; Dr. Joseph Towers ; Dr. Adam
Clarke, 327 ; Wesleyan Chapel ; Gil-
bert and Rivington, printers, ;/'.

St. John .Sireet, Clerkenwell, ii. 322 ;
a way for pack-horses ; the "Long
Causeway ; " footpads ; fortifica-
tions, ib. ; resort of carriers, 323.

St. John the Evangelist Church, West-
minster, iv. 4, 8.

St. John's Wood, v. 248 ; Priors of St.
John of Jerusalem ; artists and
authors : Landseer, ib. ; " Squire "
Osbaldiston, 249 ; Soyer ; Thomas
Lord ; Lord's Cricket-ground,
ib. ; family of Eyre, 250 ; " Eyre
Arms" Tavern; balloon ascents;
St. John's Wood Athenaeum ;
N.ipoleon III. ; barracks ; -A.bbey
Road ; Ladies' Home ; St. John's
Wood Road ; Clergy Orphan
Schools ; Grove Road ; Female
Orphan School ; Roman Catholic
Chapel ; Avenue Road ; .School for
the Blind, ib. ; Hamilton Terrace,
251 ; St. Mark's Church ; Aberdeen
Place ; Abercorn Place ; St. John's
Wood Chapel and burial-ground;
Joanna Southcott and her strange
delusions, ib.

St. Joseph's Convent, Kennington, vi.

333-

St. Joseph's Retreat, Highgate, v. 393.

St. Jude's Church, Stoke Newington,
V- 532- .

St. Katharine's Docks. {S<-i: London
and St. Katharine's Docks.)

St. Katharine's Hospital, near the
Tower, ii. 117 ; its history and con-
stitution, V. 273 ; Matilda, Queen of
King Stephen, 274; queen's consort;
bead-roll of the fraternity ; removed
for construction of St. Katharine's
Docks, if'.: new hospital, chapel,
and master's house, Regent's Park,
275 ; tomb of John Duke of Exe-
ter ; Sir Herbert Taylor, master,
etc. , ib.

St. Lawrence Jewry, Church of, i. 376.

St. Lawrence Poidteney Church and
College ; epitaphs, ii. 40.

St. Leonard's Church, Fish Street Hill,
ii. 8.

St. Leonard's Church, Foster Lane, i.
362.

St. Leonard's Church, Shoredilch, ii.
195 ; the actors' church ; burial-
place of Somers, Tarlton, Burbagc.
Greene, Wilkinson, ;/'.

St. Leonards, Lord, iv. 201.

GENKRAL INDEX.

623

St. Luke's Church, Berwick Street, iv.
238.

St. Luke's Church, Old Street, ii. 201.

St. Luke's Hospital, Okl Street, ii. 200.

St. Magnus Church, i. 573 ; old reli-
gious service ; Miles Coverdale, 574.

St. Margaret Moyses Church, i. 349.

St. Margaret Pattens Church, Fenclmrch
Street, ii. 176; altar-piece by Carlo
M.iratti; burial-place of Dr. Birch,//'.

St. Margaret's Church, Westminster,
iii. 567 ; first church of Edward the
Confessor ; rebuilt tci>if. Edward L ;
present church ; tower and bells, //'.;
porch, 568 ; pulpit ; window pre-
sented to Henry VIE by the magis-
trates of Dort ; subject of a law-
suit ; loving cup ; charitable be-
quest ; monuments ; Thomas Arne-
way, ib. ; tomb of Lady Dudley,
569 ; Mrs. Corbett ; epitaph by Pope ;
tomb of Skelton, ib. ; Speaker's
pew; "State services," 570; in-
cumbents and preachers, 572 ; re-
ligious changes ; pkague, ib.; Solemn
League and Covenant, 573 ; icono-
clasts ; long sermons ; gallery, ib. ;
performances of the "Messiah,"
574 ; Wilkes ; electioneering piety ;
Slilton and Campbell's marriages,
ib. ; ancient fire-engines, 575 ; Past
Overseers' Society, 576 ; tobacco-
box in silver cases ; engraved by
Hogarth ; other engravings and in-
scriptions on it ; the box detained ;
legal proceedings, //'.

St. Margaret's Hill, Southwark, vi. 58 ;
Southwark Fair; "Our Lady Fair; "
Hogarth's picture, //'.

St. Mark's College, Chelsea, v. 86.

St. Martin's Church, Ironmonger Lane
(called " Pomary "), i. 3S3.

St. Martin's Church, Ludgate, i. 226 ;
curious epitaph ; font, ib.

"St. Martin's Hall," Long Acre, iii.
269, 270 ; Hullah's music-classes ;
Dickens's lectures ; hall burnt down
and rebuilt ; converted into the
Queen's Tlieatre, ib.

St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, iii. 149, 150;
windmill ; growth of the parish ;
first chapel, ib. ; present church,
152 ; George L ; Gibbs ; the vaults,
//'. ; burials, 153; Sir Edmundbury
Godfrey ; Jack Sheppard ; Rou-
biliac ; Farquhar ; Nell Gwynne ;
the "Watermen's Burying-ground ;"
rate-books ; registers ; sanctuary,
ib. ; burial-ground, Camden Town ;
Charles Dibdin, v. 323.

St. Martin's Lane, iii. 159 ; old houses;
noted residents; "Slaughter's"
Coffee House, ib.

St. Martin's-le-Grand, ii. 215; St.
Martin's College ; curfew ; crypt ;
sanctuary ; St. Martin's lace, 219 ;
French Protestant Church, 228.

St. Martin's Place, iii. 154.

St. Martin's Street, iii. 172 ; Newton
and Dr. Burney, ib.

St. Mary Abchurch ; rebuilt by Wren ;
pulpit, monuments, carvings, i. 530.

St. Mary-at-Hill Church, ii. 41.

St. Mary Axe, ii. 191.

St. Mary-le-Bow Church. (S^e Bow
Church, Cheapside. )

St. Mary-le-Strand Church, iii. 84 ;
the old church, 84, 291 ; Protector
Somerset ; new church by Gibbs, S6.

St. Mary Magdalen's Church, Ber-

mondsey. vi. 121.
St. Mary Magdalen Church, Fish Street

Hill, ii. 3O.
St. Mary, Moorfields, ii. 207.
St. Mary-in-thc-Savoy. (i'tv .Savoy, The.)
St. Mary Overics, Southwark, ii. 9. (Sit

St. .Saviour's Cliurch.)
St. Mary Woolnoth Church, Lombard

Street, i. 527 ; .Sir Martin Bowes ;

Sir Hugh Price; Rev. John Newton;

Hawksmoor, //'.
St. Mary's Aldermary Church, i. 554 '<

crypt, monuments ; epitaph to Sir

Henry Keeble ; restoration by Wren;

sword-holder; Richard Chawcer, 555.
St. Mary's Church, Whitechapel, ii.

143 ; " St. ALary I\LatfcIlon ;" origin

of the name ; Kennet White, De.in

of St. Paul's, //'.
St. Mary's College, Peckhani, vi. 291.
St. Mary's Hospital, Paddington, v. 225.
St. Mary's, Moorfields, ii. 200.
St. Michael-le-Quern ; corn-market,

ii. 181.
St. Michael's Alley, Cornhill ; first

coffee-house, ii. 172.
St. Michael's Church, Cornhill, ii.

170, 171 ; pulpit cross ; burial of

F'abian ; Stow's grandfather ; re-
built by Wren ; restored by Sir G. G.

Scott ; the devil in the belfry, 171.
St. Michael's Church, Crooked Lane ;

Sir William Walworth's monument,

'• 555- „ ,

St. Mich.ael's Paternoster Royal
Church ; rebuilt by Whittington,
ii. 26 ; almshouses, 27 ; college ;
picture by Hilton ; burials ; Cleve-
land's [loems, //'.

St. Nichokas Aeons Church, Lombard
Street, i. 527.

St. Nicholas Cole abbey Church ; tombs
of Fishmongers, ii. 2, 20, 37.

St. Olave's Church, Hart Street;
monuments, ii. no, 112; Pepys
and his family, ib., 250.

St. Olave's Grammar School, New, vi.
105, III.

St. Olave's Union, vi. 124.

St. Pancras, v. 325 ; biographical
sketcli of the saint ; churches bear-
ing his name, ;/'.; corruption of e
name, 326 ; former rural character
of the parish; population, ib,; ex-
tent, 327 ; prebendal manors ;
Domesday Book; Carthusian monks,
//'.; manor-house, 32S ; Earl Cam-
den ; Lord Southampton ; manor
of Ruggemere ; Skinners' Company ;
River Fleet ; floods, ib.; " Elephant
and Castle " Tavern, 329 ; King's
Road ; workhouse and vestry-hall ;
parish schools, Hanwell ; infirmary,
Ilighgate; old parish church, ib.;
benefactions, 332 ; land and re-
venues ; family of Eve or Ive ;
monument to Robert Eve, /[>/«/.
Edward IV. ; Canons of St. Paul's,
ib.; restoration of church, 333;
piscina and sedilia ; Norman altar-
stone ; churchyard ; Roman Catholic
burials, //'. ; numerous interments of
remarkable persons, 334 ; Turkish
minister, ib.; works of the Jlidland
Railway, 337 ; encroachments on
the burial-ground ; desecration of
the dead, //'.; new cemeteiy at
Finchley, 33S ; "Adam and Eve"

Tavern, 340 ; St. Pancras Wells ;
Stukeley ; Roman cam]) at the
Brill ; fortification at Brill Farm,
ib.; "Brill" Tavern, Brill Row,
Somers Town, ib.; market-place,
Chapel .Street, 344 ; Ossulston
Street; Charlton Street; "Coffee
House," ib.; Clarendon Square,
345 ; The Polygon ; Roman Ca-
tholic Chapel of .St. Aloysius, ib.;
Seymour Street, 346 ; Railway
Clearing Hcuse ; St. -Mary's Chapel,
ib.; Druinmond .Street, 347 ; Rail-
way liencvolent Institution ; Lon-
don and North-Westcrn Railway
Terminus, ib.; Euston Square, 351 ;
Montgomery's Nursery Gardens ;
Dr. Wolcot, ib. ; Euston Road,
352 ; statue of Robert .Stephenson,
ib.; New Church; almshouses, 315.

St. Pancras Church, Soper Lane, i. 352.

St. Pancras New Church, v. 353, 354 ;
William Inwood, architect ; pulpit
and reading-desk ; Fairlop Oak ;
vicars; Rev. T. Dale; Rev. W. W.
Champneys, tb.

St. Paul's Cathedral, i. 235 ; supposed
temple to Diana ; British, Roman,
and .Saxon remains on the site, ib.;
first authenticated church built by
Ethelbert, 236 ; Mellitus, first
bishop ; St. Erkenwald ; his shrine ;
charters of Saxon kings, ib.; of
William the Conqueror, 237 ; Lan-
franc's council ; the church burnt
down ; rebuilt ; again partially
burnt, //'.; Henry IH.'s council,
238 ; the bishop beheaded ; Wy-
cliffe before the council, ib.; the
Lolkards, 239 ; John of Gaunt's
grave ; abuses ; buying and selling
in the church ; sacred relics, ib.;
King John of France, 240; chantries;
Duchess of Gloucester's penance,
//'. ; Jane Shore's penance, 241 ;
marriage of Prince Arthur ; Henry
VH. lying in state, ib.; Bishop
Fitzjames, 242 ; Dean Colet ;
Wolsey ; Henry VIIL, ib.; Ana-
baptists burnt, 243 ; the Refor-
mation ; Dr. Bourne preaching ;
Bishops Ridley and Bonner, ib.;
wooden steeple burnt, 244 ; trading
and other abuses, ib. ; " children
of St. P.iul's," 245 ; lotteries; Gun-
powder Plot ; execution of con-
spirators at St. Paul's ; Garnet
executed ; Inigo Jones's portico, ib.;
desecration under Cromwell, 246 ;
Wren's report on the building, 247 ;
the Great Fire, 248 ; the rebuild-
ing ; first stone laid, ib. ; Cathedral
opened, 249 ; Queen Anne, 250 ;
victories celebrated ; Thomhill's
paintings ; organ ; Queen Anne's
st.atue ; Gibbons' carvings; cost of
the Cathedral ; visit of George I.,
//'..• visits of George III., 251 ;
Wren's tomb ; first monuments ;
Howard ; Johnson ; Reynolds ; Nel-
son's funeral, ib.; Wellington's fu-
neral, 252; other interments, 254;
robbery of plate ; improvements of
the interior ; description and di-
mensions, //'..■ Horner's Panoramic
^■iew of London, 255 ; narrow es-
capes of Gwyn'and Thornhill, ib.;
lightning conductors, 256 ; falcon's
nc~t ; kbrary ; trophy-room ; clock ;

62A

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

great bell, «'.,■ the clock striking
thirteen ; a monomaniac, 257 ;
Sydney Smith, _ 261 ; Barham ;
Cockerel! ; poetical notices, ib. ;
Choir School, 293.

St. Paul's Churchyard, i. 262 ; Book-
sellers ; Shakespeare's poems and
plays ; the precinct ; Pardon Church-
yard, ;//.; the Cloister, 263 ; Dance
of Death ; Paul's Cross ; St. Paul's
School ; the Deanery ; St. Gregory's
Church ; gates ; church railings ;
Garnet's execution, ib.; the "lace
in the straw," 265 ; John Newbery
and his nephew, 256 ; St. Paul's
Chain; Chapter-house; "St.Paul's"
Coffee House ; "Child's" Coffee
House,!i^. ; "Queen's Arms" Tavern,
267 ; Rivington and Sons ; music-
shops, 26S ; Jeremiah Clark, 269 ;
Richard Meares ; Handel ; John
■young, violin maker ; Talbot
Young, "Dolphin and Crovm " >li.;
St. Paul's Abbey, 272; "Goose
and Gridiron ;" Freemason's Lodge ;
"Mitre;" music-houses, id.

St. Paul's Church, Covent Garden, iii.
255 ; built by Inigo Jones ; burnt
down and rebuilt ; Walpole's stric-
tures on its design ; marriages and
burials, ii>.

"St. Paul's" Coffee House, i. 266.

St. Paul's Cross, Spital Sermons, ii. 249.

St. Paul's School, i. 272 ; described by
Erasmus ; addresses to sovereigns ;
school - room ; library ; eminent
Paulines, 273 ; Pepys, Milton, 274 ;
the New School, vi. 533.

St. Peter ; legend of his dedication of
Westminster Abbey, iii. 395.

St. Peter ad Vincula Church, in the
Tower. (See Tower of London.)

St. Peter-le-Poor Church, ii. 166.

St. Peter's Church, Cornhill ; murder
of a priest, ii. 171.

St. Peter's Hospital (Fishmongers'
Almshouses), Xewington, vi. 257 ;
removed to Wandsworth, 258, 48 1 .

St. Peter's Hospital for Stone, iv. 465.

St. Peter's in Chepe, i. 31S, 364, 398.

St. Philip's Church, Stepney, ii. 140.

St. Pierre, M.de; the longitude, ii. 9; vi.
212.

St. Saviour's Church, Southwark, vi.
320; "the Priory Church of St.
Mary Overy ;" legend of Mary
Audrey, the ferryman's daughter ;
her " House of Sisters," 2i ; college
for priests ; great fire in 1212 ;
church rebuilt ; royal weddings ;
Prior Linsted ; dole, ;'.''. ; Lady
Chapel, //'. ; converted into a bake-
house, 21, 23 ; restoration, 21 ;
Bishop Andrewes' Chapel, 22 ; west
front ; nave ; chapel of St. Maiy
Magdalene, ili.; chapel of St. John,
23 ; Bishop of Winchester's Couit ;
tomb of Pjishop Andrewes, ib. ; of
Gower, 21, 25, 26 ; Fletcher, Mas-
singer, 27 ; election of preachers,
28.

St. Saviour's Convalescent Hospital,
North End, Fulham, vi. 527.

St. Saviour's Grammar School, vi. 17, 42.

St. .Saviour's Home and Hospital, Os-
naburgh Street, v. 299.

St. Saviour's Hospital, Holloway, v. 3S1.

St. Sepulchre's Church, ii. 477 ; early
history J the Great lire, ib. ; re-

pairs and alterations, 478 ; interior ;
tower and porch ; organ, ib. ; in-
terments, 479, 481, 4S2 ; Awfield,
a traitor ; his body refused inter-
ment, 483 ; endowment for admo-
nitions and bell tolling at executions ;
curious ceremony, ib.; nosegay pre-
sented to the condemned, 4S4 ;
bequests to the church, ;/'.

St. Stephen's Chapel, Westminster, iii.
494 ; its erection ; wall paintings ;
occupied as the House of Com-
mons, 497 ; cloisters, 557 ; crypt ;
its restoration ; chapel of Our
Lady de la Pieu, 560.

.St. Stephen's Church, Coleman Street,
i. 514 ; tomb of Anthony Munday ;
alto-relievo of " the Last Judg-
ment," ii. 245.

St. .Stephen's Church, Walbrook, i.
55S ; Wren ; picture by West, ib.

St. Stephen's Club, iii. 329.

St. Swithin's Church, Cannon Street ;
epitaphs, i. 550, 551.

St. Swithin's Lane ; Founders' Hall,
i. 551.

St. Thomas A'Becket's Chapel on Lon-
don Bridge, ii. 10, 16.

St. Tliomas Aeon, college and church,

i- 377. 380, 381.

St. Thomas a \\ atering ; boundary of
the City liberties ; place of e.xecu-
tion, vi. 250.

St. Thomas's Hospital, vi. 89 ; Prior
of Bermondsey, ib. ; "almery, " or
hospital, dedicated to St. Thomas
tlie Martyr, 90 ; Bishops of \\'in-
chester ; Ridley, Bishop of London ;
royal endowment of the hospital,
ib.; decay of the establishment, 91 ;
public subscription ; new building ;
statues of Edward VL and Sir
Robert Clayton, ib. ; court-room,
92 ; portraits ; building taken for
London Bridge Railway Station ;
removal to Surrey Gardens ; to
Albert Embankment, //'.; the new
Hospital, 419.

.St. Thomas's Schools, Waterloo Road,
vi. 414.

St. Vedast Church, Foster Lane ; stone
coffins ; epitaphs, i. 363.

Salisbury, Countess of, her execution,
ii. 92, 95.

Salisbury Court, Fleet .Street, i. 138,
140, 141 ; the Whig "Mug-house:''
history of mug-houses ; Dorset Gar-
dens 'Theatre, ib.

.Salisbury Court Theatre ; Davenant,
Divdcn, i. 195.

Salisbury, Marchioness of, iv. 170.

.Salisbury Square, Fleet Street, 140,
143, 146 ; Richardson's printing-
ofiice ; "Pamela;" John Eyre, his
transportation ; the Woodfalls, ib.

Salisbury Street, Strand ; Salisbury
House, iii. lOl.

"Sally Salislniry ;" the Hon. Jolin
Finch stabljed by, iii. 268.

.Salmon, Mrs., her exhibition of wax-
work, i. 45.

" Saloop-house," in Fleet Street, i. 69.

Salter, John, "Don Saltero ;" his
cofrce-house and museum, v. 62.

Sailers' Company, i. 547 ; successive
M.-ills ; present Hail, 548 ; arms ;
dinners and pageants, ib.

Sailers' Hall Chapel and Meeting
House, i. 548, 549.

Salt-pits, Roman, i. 548.

" Salutation and Cat," ii. 430.

.Salvation Army Congress Hall, v. 522.

Samaritan Hospital, iv. 423.

Sams' Library, iv. 169.

Sanctuary, riglit of; its antiquity, iii.
4S4; cities of refuge, 485; "general"
sanctuary, 4S3 ; "peculiar" sanc-
tuary, 484; plea of "benefit of
clergy," ib. ; right restrained by
Pope Innocent VHL, 485 ; limited
by Henry VHI. and James I., 485 ;
.Sanctuary, The, Westminster, 483 ;
its church, churchyard, and close,
ib.; Thieving Lane, ib.; instances
of the use and violation of sanctuary,
39S, 484 ; Jon Prendigest, Knyte ;
Judge Tresilian ; Duchess of Glou-
cester, ib. ; Elizabeth, Queen of
Edward IV., 485 ; birth of Edward
V. ; Skelton, poet laureate, ib. ;
procession of sanctuary men, 486 ;
tjreat and Little .Sanctuary, 486 ;
488 ; iv. 28, 40, 45.

Sanctuaries: Cold Harbour, ii. 17;
Montague Close, Southwark, vi. 28 ;
Ram Alley, Whitefriars, i. 137 ; St.
George's Church, Southwark, ii.
143 ; priory of St. John of Jerusa-
lem, ii. 313 ; St. Martin's-le-Grand,
ii. 215, 219.

Sandby, Thomas and Paul ; their
drawings of the Thames, iii. 289.

Sanderson, Sir James, Lord Mayor, i.

411. 443.

Sandford, Francis, Rouge Dragon, i. 298.

Sandford Manor House, Fulham, resi-
dence of Nell Gwynne, vi. 525.

Sandwicli, Earl of, and Miss Ray, iii.
260, 385.

Sandy End, Fulham, vi. 524.

Sanger, lessee of Astley's Amjihitheatre,
vi. 406.

Sanquhar, Lord, e.\ecuted for murder,
i. 1S6.

.Sans Souci Tlieatre ; Charles Dibdin,
iii. 170.

Sardinian Chapel, Lincoln's Inn Fields,
iii. 47.

.'^a/trisl Newspaper, iv. 25 1.

Saunders, Ricliaid, his carved figures
of giants in Guildhall, i. 3S7.

S.avage, Richard, ii. 320, 414, 465, 509,
552; iii. II, 4S9; iv. 183, 288.

Savile House, Leicester Square, iii.
165 ; burnt down, 166.

.Savile Row, iv. 309 ; Geographical
Society, .St. George's Club, ib. ;
Scientific Club, 310; George G rote,
M.I'.; Sir Benjamin Brodie ; Savile
Club ; Burlintjton Fine Arts Club,
ib. ; Charies Day, 311.

Savings Hanks, Post Office, ii. 213.

Savoy, Precinct of the, iii. 9.

Savoy, The, iii, 95 ; palace and hospital ;
early history ; I'etc]. Earl of Savoy:
Edniuiid, ICarl of L ncaster ; death
of John, King of France ; palace
burnt by Wat Tyler, //'. ; rebuilt .is
a hospital by Henry VH., 96; the
S.avoy Chapel ; liberty of the Duchy
of Lancaster, 96 ; Savoy Confer-
ence, 97 ; French emigrants, 98 ;
Jesuits ; h.all of the hospital ;
prison ; barracks ; Imrial-grouml,
lb.; present chapel, 90 ; its restora-
tion : John of (iaunt, 100.

Savoy Hotel, iii. 328.

Savoy Theatre, iii. 328.

GENERAL INDEX.

625

Saxon London, i. 447 — 452 ; Saxon
Bridge ; Edward the Confessor ;
Athelstane ; Edmund Ironside ;
Canute ; "gemot," ih. ; remains on
the site of St. Paul's, 236 ; fortress
on site of Tower of London, ii. 60 ;
antiquities in Fleet Ditcli, 417.

Sayers, Tom, pugilist, v. 370.

Scalding Alley, Poultry, i. 416, 419.

Schomberg House, Pall Mall ; Duke
of Schomberg, iv. 124, 125.

School of Art for Ladies, iv. 555.

School of Design, Lambeth, vi. 424.

Science and Art Department, v. 112.

Scientific Club, iv. 310.

Scotch pines, Kensington Gardens, v.
156.

Scotland Yard, iii. 330 ; Saxon Palace
for Kings of Scotland and Scottish
ambassadors, ib. : Vanbrugh, 332 ;
"Well's" Coffee-house; Lord Her-
bert of Cherbury ; Palace Court,
ib. ; Metropolitan Police-offices,
333 ; office for cab licences ; first
hackney coaches ; sedan chairs, ;A;
" Jarveys," 334. {See Middle Scot-
land Yard.)

Scot's Yard, Thames Street ; Roman
river-wall, ii. 35.

Scott, American diver, iii. 321.

Scott, Colonel, R.E. ; Royal Albert
Hall, V. 113.

Scott, John, killed in a duel, i. 64.

Scott, Sir G. G., R.A., ii. 171 ; iii.
423, 452, 454, 479 ; iv. 35 ; V. 128,
370, 4S3, 533 ; VI. 245, 273, 339.

Scott, Sir Walter, i. 186, 275 ; ii. 220,
331 ; iv. 220, 294, 302, 460 ; V.
466 ; vi. 564.

Scottish Corporation, i. 107 ; the
"Scottish Box;" Kinloch's bequest;
annual festival ; house and chapel, ('/'.

Scottish National Church, Crown
Court, Covent Garden, iii. 279.

"Scourers," members of dissolute
clubs, iv. 57, 166.

Scroope's Inn, Paul's Wharf, i. 2S5.

Scrope and Grosvenor families ; heraldic
controversy, i. 347 ; iv. 371.

Scrope family, their residence in Upper
Thames Street, ii. 18.

Seacole Lane, iii. ^^.

" Sea-coal sellers," iv. 218.

Seal, Great, iv. 6, 566.

Seal of the Bank of England, i. 468.

Seal of the Corporation of London, i.
4^6, 504.

Seamen's Children's School, ii. 146.

Seamore Place ; Lady Blessington ;
• Count D'Orsay, iv. 352.

Searle's boat-building yard, Lambeth,
vi. 387.

Sebert, King, iii. 394, 431.

Sedan chairs, iii. 334, 336; iv. 114,
248. 290.

Sedley, Sir Charles, iii. 21.

Seething ' Lane ; Sir Francis Walsing-
ham ; Navy Office, ii. 99.

Selby, Mrs. ; costume ; the hoop
invented by her, v. 1 58.

Selden, i. 154, 172 ; ii. 521.

Selwyn, George, ii. 450; iv. 165, 177,
455 ; V. 131, 171, 193-

Semaphore, iii. 383 ; v. 506 ; vi. 99,
258, 292.

" Serle's " Coffee-house, iii. 27.

Serle's Place (Upper, Middle, and
Lower), iii. 21.

Serle Street and Serle's Court, iii. 26.
293— N.E.

Serjeants' Inn, Chancery Lane, i. 83,

84.
Serjeants' Inn, Fleet Street, i. 84 ;

sale of buildings, i. 84 ; the hall, i.

137-
Sermon or Shircmoniars Lane, i. 303 ;

ii. 36.
j .Sermons, Long, ii. 49 ; iii. 573 ; hour-
j glasses in pulpits, i. 368 ; ii. 146 ;

iii. 574 ; vi. 577 ; Flower Sermon,

ii. 190. (j't'f Spital Sermons. )
I Serpentine River. {See Hyde Park.)
Serres, Dominic, marine painter, iv.

82; vi. 413.
Serres, Olivia, "Duchess of Lancaster,"

iv. 567 ; vi. 413.
Sessions House, Old Bailey. {See Old

Bailey.)
Sessions House, Westminster, iv. 33.
Settle, Elkanah, i. 406 ; ii. 178, 01. •
Seurat, Claude Amboise ; tire " Living

Skeleton," iv. 257.
" Seven Chimneys" (pest-houses). Tot-
hill Fields, iv. 14, 15.
Seven Dials, iii. 204; "the seven

streets ; " column and dials, ib. ;

trade of the locality ; cellar rooms,

205 ; female barbers, 206 ; George

IV. at a beggar's carnival, ib. ; iv.
292.

Seven Sisters' Road, v. 3S0.

" Seven Sisters," Tottenham, v. 550.

Severndroog Castle, vi. 236, 243.

Sewage ; Fleet Ditch, v. 234 ; Metro-
politan Commissioners of Sewers,
236 ; main drainage scheme ; Sir
Joseph Bazalgette ; high, middle,
and low level sewers, ib. ; statistics,
23S.

Seymour Hall, iv. 23

Seymour Street, Euston Square, v. 346 ;
Railw.iy Clearing House ; St. Mary's
Church, lb.

Shacklewell ; wells ; old manor-house,
v. 530.

Shad Thames ; "St. John-at-Thames, "
vi. 113.

Shadwell, dramatist, i. 188, 196; iii.
243, 278.

Shadwell, ii. 137 ; rope-walks; St.
Paul's Church ; waterworks ; Shad-
well Spa, ib.

Shaftesbury, Earl of ; his house in
Aldersgate .Street, ii. 220 ; iv. 340 ;

V. 89 ; notices of him by Butler,
Dryden, and Scott, ib.

Shaftesbury House, Chelsea, v. 89.
Shakespeare, i. 49, 50, 123, 157, 158,

181, 200, 201, 219, 264, 302, 351,

545. 560, 563 ; ii. 28, 94, 104, 155,

221, 515, 516; iii. S3' 327 ; '^■■

128, 135, 167, 177, 253, 536; V.

loS, 28 ; vi. 27, 41, 45, 46, 49, 93.
Shakespeare, Edmund, the poet's

brother, vi. 27.
"Shakespeare Head," Wych .Street;

Mark Lemon, iii. 284.
Shakespeare Oak, Primrns^ Hill, v. 291.
"Shakespeare's Head," Russell Street,

Covent Garden, iii. 278.
"Shard Arms," public-house; the

Shard family, vi. 251, 287.
Sharp, William, engraver, vi. 553.
"Shaver's Hall," Haym.arket, iv. 221.
Shee, Sir Martin Archer, P.R.A., iii.

148 ; iv. 446.
Sheepshanks, John ; his pictures, v. 26.
Sheffield House, Kensington, \'. 134.
Sheil, Richard Lalor, M.P., v. 125.

Shelley, iv. 176; v. 22, 457, 458, 500;
vi. 548.

Shenstune, William, iii. 10, 65, 243.

Shepherd's Bush, v. 178.

Shepherd's Fields, Hampstead, v. 498 ;
Shepherd's Well, 500.

Shepherd's Market, iv. 352.

Sheppard, Jack, i. 74 ; ii. 460 ; iii. 32,
34. '53 ; V. 190; vi. 63.

Sheridan, i. 88, 166, 388 ; iii. 212, 224,
262; iv. 1 58, 159, 220, 298, 311,
327, 329, 389, 423 ; V. 137 ; vi. 375.

"Sheridan Knowles " Tavern, iii. 282.

Sheriffs' Court, Red Lion Square, iv. 548.

Sheriffs' dinners at Old Bailey, ii. 468.

Sheriffs, Election of, i. 437, 441.

Sherlock, Bishop, i. 155 ; v. 473.

Shillibeer's omnibuses, etc., v. 256.

" .Shilling Rubber Club," iii. 267.

" Ship and Shovel," Toolcy .Street, vi.
106.

"Ship at anchor," sign of Longmans,
publishers, iv. 295.

"Ship in full sail," sign of John
Murray, publisher, iv. 295.

Shipton, Mother, history of, v. 311.

Ship Yard, Fleet Street, i. 74 ; resort
of coiners and thieves ; the " Smash-
ing Lumber," iii. 21, 22.

.Shire Lane, Fleet Street, i. 70 — 74 ;
Kit-Kat Club, ;(5. .• the "Trumpet,"
75 ; Trumpeters' Club ; the
"Bible;" Jack Sheppard; mur-
ders; the "Retreat;" Cadgers'
Hall; "Sun" Tavern; "Anti-
Gallican " Tavern ; illustrious resi-
dents, ;/'. ; iii. 20, 21, 22.

Shoe Lane, i. 123; John Florio ;
Cogers' Discussion Hall, 124, 125 ;
Fludson, comic song writer, 130;
unstamped newspapers, 132; burial-
place of Chatterton, ib. ; ii. 548.

.Shoes, rights and lefts, iii. 441.

Shooter's Hill ; highwaymen; gibbets;
Herbert's Hospital, vi. 236.

Shore, Jane, i. 241, 314; described by
Drayton ; her penance, ib.

Shoreditch, ii. 194 ; the legend of its
name refuted : Soerdich family ;
Barlow, " Duke of Shoreditch " ;
archers, ib., 252 ; almshouses, v.
507 : workhouse, 525.

Shot factories, Lambeth, vi. 408.

Shovel, Admiral Sir Cloudesley, iii.420.

Shower, John, minister of Old Jewry
Chapel, i. 430.

Shrewsbury, Francis, Earl of, and his
Countess; fatal duel, iii. 215; vi.
498.

Shrewsbury Plouse, Cold Harbour, ii.

17-

Siamese Twins, The, iv. 257.

Sick Children, Hospital for. Great
Ormond Street, iv. 561.

Sick Children, North-Eastern Hospital
for, v. 507.

.Sick Children, Victoria Hospital for,
Chelsea, v. 83.

Siddons, Mrs., iii. 224, 231, 232 ; v.
209, 214, 261.

Sidney, Algernon, ii. 75, 95 ; v. 18.

Sidney Alley, iii. 161.

Signs of shops and taverns ; I.ar-
wood's " History of Sign-boards,"
i. 34, 37, 46, 50, 129, 228, 272,
305, 410, 417, 424, 524; ii. 137,
147, 41 1 ; iii. 21, 22, 26, 33, 38, 63,
64, 104. 196, 254, 263, 266, 267,
273. 290, 3'4. 382, 488, 559; iv.

6:6

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

6, 12, 17, 44, 60, 135, 164, 167, 207,
208, 233, 234, 23S, 239, 245, 253,
2S7, 288, 291, 295, 301, 309, 322,

334. 407, 429. 485. 545. 552 ; V. 9,

45. 178, 304, 393; VI. 13, 63, 74,

88, 123, 251, 256, 390.
Silk and Silkworms ; mulberry -s;ardens,

V. 67.
.Silk manufacture, v. 88.
.Silk-weavers in Spitalfields, ii. 150.
.Silver Street, Golden Square, iv. 239.
Silver .Street, \Vood Street ; Parish

Clerks' Company, i. 369.
"Simon the Tanner," public-house,

Bermondsey, vi. 123.
Simon, Thomas ; his coins, ii. 104.
Simpson, master of the ceremonies,

\'auxhall Gardens, vi. 465.
Sion College, ii. 168 ; the library, 170 ;

iii. 324.
"Sir HuRh Myddelton " Tavern, Sad-
ler's Wells ; old picture, ii. 294, 295.
" Sixteen-string Jack," ii. 484; v. 194.
Skates, primitive, ii. 196.
.Skating-hall, Colosseum (1844), v. 272.
.Skating rinks, iv. 421, 454 ; v. 95, 100.
"Skeleton, Living," iv. 257.
Skelton, poet laureate, iii. 485, 569.
Skinners' Company and Hall, li. 38 ;

affray with the Fishmongers, i. 305;

ii. 3, 38 ; wearing of furs restrained,

39 ; regulations for importing furs ;

processions ; elections ; arms ; the

Hall, i/'.
Skinners' Estate, St. Pancras ; Sir

Andrew Judd, v. 341.
Skinner Street, Snow Hill, ii. 489 ;

Alderman Skinner; houses disposed

of by lottery ; neglected houses ;

execution of Cashman ; shop of

AVilliam Clodwin, 490.
" Slaughter's " Coffee House, iii. 159.
Slavery, i. 423, 424 ; ii. 157 ; iii. 34 ;

iv. 15 ; V. 14.
Slave trade ; the South Sea Company,

i. 538.
" Slender Billy," v. 3.
Sloane, Sir Hans, i. 107 ; ii. 433 ; iv.

490. 494. 539 ; V. 59, 62, 68, 69,

87. 95. 360.
Sloane -Square, v. 95.
Sloane Street, v. 97.
Sloman's sponging-house, i. 89.
"Sluice House," Hornsey, v. 431.
Small-pox Hospital, iv. 472 ; v. 385.
.Small-pox ; vaccination, vi. 376.
.Smeaton ; repairs of Old London

Bridge, ii. 15.
.Smart, .Sir George, iv. 457.
.Smart's Quay, Billingsgate, a seminary

for thieves, ii. 48.
Smirke, Sir Robert, R.A., iv. 476,

500, 502.
Smiike, Sydney, iv. 500, 502.
Sniilli, Albert, i. 57, 58 ; iii. 132 ; iv.

56, 246, 250, 25S ; vi. 202, 209,

461, 526.
.Smith, Alderman Joshua Johnson ; his

kindness to Lady Hamilton, iv. 254.
Smith, Captain John, captured by the

Indians (Pocahontas), ii. 4S1, 482.
Smith, C. Roach, I'.S.A., i. 20, 21 ;

ii- 34-
Smith, E. T., vi. 521.
Smith, George, Assyrian Collection,

British Museum, iv. 531.
Smith, James and Horace, " Rejected

Addresses," ii. 167 ; iii. 225, 232 ;

vi. 281, 393.

Smith, J. T. (" Rainy Day Smith "j, ii.
262, 452; iv. 238, 458, 459, 518;
v. 255 ; VL 377.

Smith, Dr. Pye, v. 513, 521.

Smith, Thomas Assheton, iv. 412.

Smith, Rev. Sydney, i. 260 ; iv. 374.

Smith, Robert '\'ernon ( "Bobus Smith"),
iv. 310. I

Smith, Sir!. P. ; the screw-propeller, I
iv. 254. '

Smith and Son, Messrs. ; \V. H. Smith, !
sen. and jun., iii. 76.

Smith's Forge, Blackheath, vi. 226.

Smithfield, ii. 339; tournaments ; death
of Wat Tyler ; Sir William Wal-
worth ; Richard H. ; religious mar- 1
tyrs burnt at the stake, ili.: the
gallows, 341 ; execution of Wallace;
Priory of .St. Bartholomew, ili.; the
king's Friday market, 342 ; old
Hospital of St. Bartholomew, 344 ; '
miracle-plays; Court of Pie-poudre;
mulberry-trees ; Prior Bolton, i'Ik :
New Hospital, 345 ; Bartholomew
Fair, 345 — 350 ; relics of the Smith-
field burnings, 351.

Smithfield Club Cattle Shows, iv. 421.

Smithfield Market ; Dickens; statistics;
lemoval to Copenhagen Fields, ii. 350.

Smith .Square, Westminster, iv. 35.

Smollett, i. 53S, 539 ; iv. 352 ; v. 92,
93 ; vi. 66.

.Smyth, .A.dmiral, iv. 268.

Snow Hill, or Snore Hill, ii. 440 ;
death of John Bunyan ; Dobson,
painter, 441 ; " Saracen's Head "
Inn, 4S5 ; described by Dickens ;
origin of the sign, //..,• conduit, 4S9.

Snow, Paul, and Bates, bankers, iii. 64.

" Snow .Shoes " public-house, v. 76.

Snov/'s Fields, Bermondsey, vi. 108. 1

Soap Yard, Southwark; Alleync's alms-
houses, vi. 33.

Soane, .Sir John, i. 46, 469 ; iii. 47,
503, 561 ; iv. 128, 385 ; V. 300; vi.
302.

Social attractions of London ; opinions
of eminent writers, vi. 575.

Socicte Franijaise de Bienfaisance, iv.

Society of .-Vntiquaries, iii. 94 ; iv. 269.

Society of Arts, iii. 29, 107, 115, 147,
262.

Society for the Prop.agation of the
Gospel in Foreign Parts, iv. 125,
170.

Soho, iii. 173 ; etymology; "So Hoe;"
the situation, //'.,■ Square, or Soho
Fields, 174; history, 176; old
houses, 177; Newport Industrial
School, ii. ; Newport Market ;
Earl of Newport's house ; French j
refugees ; gardens of Leicester
House ; Toxophilite Society, //'. ;
Gerrard Street, 17S ; "Turk's
Head;" the "Literary Club" and
"Literary Society," il>. ; Maccles-
field House and Street, 179 ; Princes
Street; Windmill Street, 180; for-
mation of St. Anne's parish ; the
Church, 181 ; the watch-house ;
Sir Harry Dimsdale, 1S3 ; Carlisle
Street, iii. 187; Carlisle House;
Mrs. Cornclys, ;/..; Sutton .Street,
189 ; Roman Catholic Chapel ; the
Irish in London, ili.; Frith .Street,
192 ; Compton Street, 194 ; New
Compton Street ; Dean Street ;
Royalty Theatre, //■./ Gigek Strcc',

195 ; Wardour Street, ig6 ; Crown
Street ; Rose Street ; Hog Lane, tt.

Soho Bazaar, iii. 190.

Soho Square, iii. 1S4 ; " King's
Square;" "Monmouth's Square;"
a fashionable quarter ; famous resi-
dents, :b.; the Duke of Monmouth,
1S5 ; statue of Charles II.; ancient
fountain ; Albert Grant ; Alderman
Beckford ; Burnet, ib.; Monmouth
House, 1S6 ; the "Wliite House,"
190 ; Crosse and Blackwell's ware-
house ; Soho Bazaar, ih. ; Sir
Joseph and Miss Banks, 192 ;
Linnxan Society ; Sir J. E. Smith ;
Conway, //'.

Soldiers' Daughters' Home, Hamp-
stead, V. 484.

'■ Sol's Arms," v. 351.

Somers Town ; its origin and decline,
V. 340.

Somers, Will, vi. 170.

Somerset House, iii. 89 ; Protector
Somerset ; the old P.alace, occupied
by Queens Elizabeth and Anne of
Denmark, li.: Henrietta Maria, 90:
her chapel, 91, 92 ; Catherine of
Braganza, 92 ; murder of Sir Ed-
mundbury Godfrey; cemetery, i/>.:
gardens, 94 ; new Somerset House ;
Royal Academy ; Public Offices, i/'.;
Society of Antiquaries, Royal So-
ciety, 94 ; wills preserved, 327.

Soiiu-rsct House Gazelle, iii. 328.

Somerset, Protector, ii. 95 ; iii. 84,
88, 89, 90, 546.

Somerset, the "Proud" Duke of, iv.
131, 161.

.Sonier\ille, Mary, iv. 315 ; v. 94.

Sons of the Clergy, annual festival, i.
441 ; iv. 544.

Soper Lane, Cheapside ; " pcpperers ;''
Sir Baptist Hicks, i. 352.

Sophia, Princess, v. 146, 220.

Sorbiere's account of Bartholomew
Fair, ii. 346.

Sotheby, Wilkinson, and Hodge, great
literary sales, iii. 286.

South, Sir James ; observatory ; equa-
tori.al broken up and sold, v. 131 ;
vi. 69.

Southampton (afterwards Bedford)
House, Bloomsbury, iv. 536.

Southampton Buildings, i. 85, 86 ; the
first Temple Church, 147 ; remains
of Southampton House, ii. 532 ; of
the old Temple ; Lord and Lady
William Russell, ih.; coffee-houses,
533; attempted suppression of them;
Mech.anics' (now Birkbeck) Institu-
tion ; Dr. Birkbeck, ili.; the Soldier's
Well, 536.

Southampton, Earl of, ii. 506 : Anne
Askew tortured by hiin ; Catherine
Parr arrestetl by him, //'.

•Soulhainpton Row, iv. 543.

Southampton Street, Bloomsbury, iv.

543-
.Southampton .Street, Peutonville, ii. 2S7.
Southampton Street, Strand, iii. uy;

the "Bedford Head," il'.: Garrick

and Mrs. Garrick, 267; Cradock ;

Gabriel and Collcy Cibber, il>.
South .\udlcy Street, iv. 345 ; Henry

Audlev, 344; Charles X. of France;

Louis 'XVHL; Paoli ; Sir Ricluid

Wcstmacott ; Alderman Wood ;

Queen Caroline ; Duke of York ;

Lord J(}hn Russell ; Lord Uute ;

GENERAL INDEX.

627

chapel ; interments ; epitapli on
Wilkes ; Spencer Perceval, ib.

Southcott, Joanna, iv. 425; v. 212,
251, 256.

South-Eastern Railway, i. 550 ; vi. 98,

99-

Southey, ii. 430 ; iii. 474 ; iv. 252,
294, 482 ; V. 375 ; vi. 375.

Southgate, V. 569; Minclieiiden House;
Arno's Grove ; Bush Hill Park, ib.

South Kensington Museum, v. 109 —
116; specimens of art workman-
ship ; loan collections ; the build-
ings ; portraits ; sculpture, textile
fabrics, art library, ceramic art,
glass, pictures ; Raphael's cartoons ;
museum of patents ; .Science and
Art Department ; special exhibi-
tions, ib.

South London Company's Water
Works, vi. 339.

South London Railway, vi. 99.

South Place Chapel, Finsbury, ii. 206.

South Place, Finsbury, ii. 206.

South Sea Company and South Sea
House, i. 538 : South S-a Bubble,

539—543; "■ 173; vi. 93-
South Street, Park Lane ; Lord Mel-
bourne ; Mdlle. D'Este, iv. 369.
South Villa, Regent's Park ; observa-
tory, V. 267.
Southwark, vi. 3 ; St. Mary Overie ;
ferry across the Thames ; first tim-
ber bridge ; etymology ; Olaf, ib. ;
Roman embankment, 4 ; Saxon
entrenchment ; William the Con-
queror's invasion ; incorporation of
Southwark ; granted to the City of
London ; the Lord Mayor bailiff of
Southwark, ib. ; present govern-
ment, 5-S ; London Bridge built
by the priests of Southwark ;
Danish fortifications ; bridge de-
stroyed by Olaf, ib. ; the Bridge-
foot, 8, 12 ; Jack Cade, 10 ; Sir
Thos. Wyatt, 11 ; Southwark Fair,
II, 14; fortified during the Com-
monwealth, ib.: Bridge House, 13;
armorial bearings, 14 ; Palace of
the Bishop of Winchester ; pil-
grimages, ib. : growth of the borough;
fire in 1676; "Tabard;" "White
Hart," 15; "the Borough;" Li-
berty of the Clink, 16 ; the High
Street, 17 — 20; "Long South-
wark ;" railway bridge ; clock
tower ; Borough Market ; old St.
Saviour's Church and Grammar
School, ib.; Winchester House, 29 ;
Bordello, or "Stews," 32; Dead-
man's Place ; Soap Yard, 33 ; Bar-
clay and Perkins's brewery, ib. ;
Globe Theatre, 40 ; Zoar Street ;
Bunyan's chapel ; Bankside, //'. ;
Crucifix Lane, 41 ; Stoney
Street; Holland Street. " Holland's
Leaguer ;" Falcon Glass Works ;
"Falcon" Tavern; Green Walk,
lb. : churches ; Sumner Street, 42 ;
Southwark Street, 44 ; Bandyleg
Walk ; Gravel Lane ; Hop Ex-
change ; subway, ib.; High Street ;
Town Hall, 57, 58 ; Southwark
Fair, 57 ; Union Street ; Union
Hall, 59; Mint Street, 60; Lant
Street ; the "Mint," 60—63 ! Great
Suffolk Street, 63 ; Winchester
Hall, 64 ; Finch's Grotto Gardens ;
King's Bench Prison, ib.; High

Street, 69; Kent Street, 70; St.
George's Church, 71 ; Marshalsea
Prison, 72 ; hat manufacture, 75 ;
tanners and curriers ; slaugliter-
houses, ib.; famous inns, 76 — 89;
St. Thomas's Hospital, 89 ; St.
Thomas's Church, 93 ; London
Bridge Railway Station, 98 ; former
water-supply, 99 ; .St. Saviour's
Church, (iff St. Saviour's Church.)

Southwark and Vauxhall Water Com-
pany, vi. 291, 478.

Southwark Bridge, i. 545.

Southwark Bridge Road, vi. 65.

Southwark Park, vi. 136.

.Southwark .Street, vi. 44.

Soyer, Alexis, v. 122, 249.

Spa Fields, ii. 301 ; Ducking-pond
Fields, 302 ; female pugilists : foot-
pads ; the "Welsh" or "Goose-
berry Fair," ib.; Pantheon : con-
verted into a chapel, 303 ; Countess
of Huntingdon, ib.; burial-ground,

305-
Spa Road and Railway Station, Ber-

mondsey, vi. 130.
" Spaniards " Tavern, v. 445.
Spanish Armada, ships of, iii. 467.
" Spanish Galleon " Inn, Greenwich,

vi. 134.
Spanish panic on the Stock Exchange,

i. 4S6.
" Spanish Patriot " Inn, Lambeth, vi.

415-

Spanish Place; Roman CatholicChapel,
iv. 425.

Spencer family ; mansion in Clerken-
well, ii. 333.

Spencer House, .St. James's Place, iv.
176.

Spencer, Rev. George (" Father Igna-
tius") V. 393.

Spencer, Sir John ("rich Spencer"),
Lord Mayor, i. 401 ; ii. 157, 269.

Spenser, Edmund, i. 160 ; ii. 98, 430 ;
iii. 68 ; iv. 26.

Spitalfields, ii. 149 ; Priory of St. Mary
Spittle ; .Spital sermons, ib. ; silk-
weavers, 1 50 ; iv. 2S0 ; riots ; bird-
fanciers, ii. 152.

Spital sermons, i. 310; ii. 149, 376, 429,

Sprat, Rev. Thomas, Dean of West-
minster, iii. 460.

Spread Eagle Court, Bread Street, i. 350.

".Spring Garden," Kennington, vi. 340.

" Spring Garden," Knightsbridge, v. 20.

Spring Gardens, iv. 77, 78, 81, 82, 83.

" Spring Gardens," Greenwich, vi. 195.

".Spring Gardens," Vauxhall. [6ee
Vauxhall Gardens.)

Spring Garden Terrace, iv. 78.

" Spring Tom " (Thomas Winter),
pugilist, ii. 536.

Sponging-houses, i. 369 ; iii. 259.

Spurgeon, Rev. C. H., vi. 29, 260,
267, 326.

" Spur-money," iv. 104.

Spurstowe, Dr.; almshouses. Hackney,

V. 514. 517-
" Squire's " Coffee House, ii. 536.
Stael, Madame de, iv. 242.
Stafford Club, iv. 309.
Stafford, Earl of, iii. 433, 550.
Stafford House, St. James's, iv. 120;

formerly Cleveland House ; Fox ;

Duke of York, 121 ; Stafford

Gallery ; Duke and Duchess of

Sutherland, 122.
Stafford Street, iv. 274.

Stage-coaches, iv. 261, 440 ; v. 93, 206,

257. 303. 454-
Stag-huntiuj;, ii. 136; v. 51.
Stamford Hill, v. 544, 545.
Stamford Street, Blackfriars, vi. 381 ;

Miss Read's decayed houses, 382.
Standard in Cheapside, i. 317.
Standard in Cornhill, ii. 1 70.
StanJiird Newspaper, i. 62, 63.
Stanfield, Clarkson, R.A., iv. 573 ; v.

483.

Stanhope, Earl ; South Sea Bubble, i.
541.

Stanhope Gate, Hyde Park, iv. 395.

Stanhope Street, Strand, iii. ^,'1.

Stanley, Very Rev. A. P., Dean of
Westminster, iii. 453, 454, 457,
461, 464, 466, 467.

Staple Inn, Holborn, ii. 575.

"Star and Garter" Hotel, Pall .Mall,
iv. 137.

"Star and Garter," Putney, vi. 500.

Star-Chamber, The, iii. 501, 502.

j'/ar- C/ia7«i^fr Newspaper, iv. 446.

"Star" Tavern, Coleman Street;
Cromwell and Hugh Peters, ii. 243.

Starch Green, Hammersmith, vi. 536.

State Coach, abandonment of, i. 416.

Stationers' Company, i. 229 ; monopoly
of printing almanacs; "entering"
and registry of books, ib. ; mis-
prints in Bibles, 230 ; almanacs ;
charities, 232 ; school ; arms of
the Company ; masters, 233 ; vi.
442.

Stationers' Hall, i. 230 ; first hall in
Milk Street ; removal to Ludgate
Hill : destroyed in the Great Fire ;
decorations of the hall, ib.; festival
of St. Cecilia ; Dryden's " Ode to
St. Cecilia" and "Alexander's Feast;"
Handel ; funerals and banquets,
ib. ; court room ; the company's
plate. 232 ; pictures, 233.

Stationery Office, Her Majesty's, West-
minster, iv. 34.

Statistics, vi. 567 ; length of the
streets of London ; number of
houses ; evidences of its giadual
growth, ib.; suburbs or outlying
villages ; old maps, 568 ; popula-
tion, 569, 570 ; compared with that
of other British and foreign cities,
countries, and the entire globe ;
births and deaths, ib. ; class popula-
tion, 571 ; tramps; paupers ; coster-
mongers ; criminals ; foreigners ;
Jews ; Irish ; Roman Catholics ;
public - houses and beer - shops ;
bakers ; butchers ; grocers ; insane
persons ; illustrations of the extent
of population ; recent improve-
ments ; model lodging - houses ;
Board schools ; new streets and
buildings ; Cleopatra's Needle,
ib.; food supply, 572; corn-mer-
chants, dealers, and flour-factors ;
markets ; water-supply ; analysis
and total daily consumption, ib.;
gas-lighting, 574 ; sewage ; street
refuse ; mud and dust ; churches ;
hospitals ; theatres ; music-halls
and other places of amusement, ib.;
parks and open spaces, 575, 576 ;
intellectual and social attra:tions ;
opinions of Dr. Johnson, Bannister,
John P. Kemble, Boswell, Burke,
Macaulay, Leigh Hunt, Dickens,
Captain Morris, ib.

62S

OLD AND NjiW LONDON.

Statuary; " figure-yords ;" Piccadilly;

Eu.ton Road, iv. 287 ; v. 303.
Steel Yard, and Merchants uf the

Stiel Yard, i. 453 ; ii. 32, 33, 34, iSl.
Steele, Sir Richard, i. 70, 71, 503; ii.

32; iii. 27, 39, 65, 112, 277, 2S0;

iv. 104, 141, 166, 172, 202, 288,

539 ; V. 62, 93, 144, 167, 459, 491

—494-
Stephens, Miss (Countess of Essex), iii.

232.
Stephenson, Robert, iii. 41S.
Stepney, ii. 137 ; Court of Record ;
fortificatioris ; the plague ; cholera ;
Stratford College ; church, 138 ;
epitaphs ; monument of Lady Berry;
story of "The Fish and the Ring ;"
Jews' burial - ground ; almshouses
and hospitals, 140 ; vicars, 14! ;
noted residents, 142 ; children born
at sea, 142.
Sterne, iv. 299, 335.
Stevens, George Alexander ; lecture

on heads, ii. 295, 53S ; vi. 369.
" Stews," Bankside, Southwark, vi. 32.
Stillingfleet, Bishop, ii. 513 ; iv. 29,

256, 416.
Stirling, Edward, the "Thunderer" of

the Tunes, v. 25.
Stock Exchange, i. 473 ; Change
Alley ; Sir Henry Furnese ; stock-
jobbers ; "bulls "and "bears,"//'.;
Thomas Guy, 474 ; the Exchange
in 1795, 476; the New Exchange ;
Capel Court, 477, 494 ; newspaper
"money articles," 477; frauds,
478; Lord Cochrane; "ticket-
pocketing," 479 ; the Rothschilds,
482, 486 ; Abraham Montefiore,
484 ; Abraham (Joldsmid ; battle
of Waterloo, 485 ; railway mania,
486 ; scrip ; omnium, 4S8 ; " pigeon
expresses," 491; failures, 4S5-6 ;
"Alley men," 492 ; eminent mem-
bers, 493.
Stock fishmongers, ii. 2.
Stocks' Market, i. 436 ; ii. 497 ; iii. 125.
Stocks, The, iii. 29 ; v. 208 ; vi. 244,

293-
Stockwell, vi. 327 ; etymology ; Green ;
Albion Archers, 328; "Stockwell
Ghost ; " St. Andrew's Church, ib. ;
hospitals, schools, asylums, etc., 329.
Stoke Newington, v. 530 ; etymology,
S31 ; Ermin Street ; Puritanism ;
-Mildmay Park ; Mildmay House ;
Newington Green ; residence of
Henry VHL, ih.; King Henry's
Walk, 532 ; St. Jude's Church ;
the Conlerencc Hall; distinguished
resident.s, il'.; old and new ])arish
church, 533, 534 ; rectors, 530, 531,
532. 533. 534- 537, 539. 542 ; Queen
Elizabeth's Walk. 536 ; Church
Street, ih. ; Sandford House, 537 ;
Defoe Street ; Manor House ;
Church Row ; Fleetwood Road,
//'.,• reservoirs of New River Com-
P''>ny. 539; Abncy House; Abney
I'ark Cemetery, 539, 540, 541.
"Stones' End," Southwark, vi. 69.
Stoney Lane, Bermondsey, vi. iii.
Stoney Street, vi. 41.
Storace, Madame, vi. 446.
Storey's Gate ; Edward Storey, keeper

of the aviary, v. 24.
Stothard, Thomas, iii. 269 ; iv. 467 ;

vi. 248.
Slourlon, Lord ; hii execution, iii. 546.

I Stow's "Annals," presented by him
j to the Merchant Taylors' Company,
I i. 532 ; his monument, ii. 192.

\ Strafford, Wentworth, Earl of, i. 82 ;
i ii- 75. 9>. 144; iii- 5tS.

Strahan, William, King's printer, i.
; 21S, 219.
" Straits of St. Clement's," iii. 10.
'■.Strand" Inn, an Inn of Court, iii. 88.
Strand Lane; "Strand Bridge;" the

old Roman bath, iii. 77.
"Strand, Straits of the," iii. 158.
Strand, The. iii. 59 ; its condition
under the Plantagenets and Tudors ;
traffic ; rotten road ; introduction
of carriages, ib. ; name of the
"Strand," 60; mansions of the
nobility, 61, 66, 67, 71, 89, 95,
too, 113; Maypole, 62, 86;
Milford Lane, 70 ; Ai-undel Street,
74 ; Messrs. W. H. Smith and
Sons, 75 ; Strand Lane ; the old
Roman bath. 77 ; Norfolk Street,
80; Surrey Street; Howard Street,
81 ; St. Mary-Ie-Strand Church,
84 ; Monk. Duke of Albemarle,
and his Ducliess, 87 ; Maypole
Alley ; Newcastle Street, 88 ;
Somerset House, 89 ; King's Col-
lege, 94 ; the Savoy, 95 ; Cecil
Street, lot ; Exchange ; Coutts's
Bank, 104 ; Adelphi, 105 ; Society
of Arts, 107 ; Buckingham Street ;
"Water Gate," loS; Villiers Street,
109; Catherine Street, no ; Exeter
Street; Exeter Arcade; Theatres,
H2, 119: Exeter Change, 113;
Cross's menagerie, 116; Exeter
Hall, iiS; Maiden Lane; South-
ampton Street, 119; Commission-
aires, 123; newspaper offices, ui,
121, 123; Lowther Arcade, 132;
Craven Street ; Northumberland
Street, 13^.
Strand Union Workhouse, iv. 466.
Stratford-le-Bow, v. 570 ; Bow Bridge ;
"Stratford-atte-Bowe,"!A,' Convent
of St. Leonard's, 571 ; the bridge ;
inquisition in 1303; toll; new
bridge ; church, ib. ; Bow and
Bromley Institute, 573 ; railways ;
Old Ford ; " King John's PalacJ ; "
Town Hall ; West Ham Park ;
Cistercian Abbey ; Abbey Mill
Pumping Station, ;/'. ; new town of
Stratford, 575 ; Great Eastern depot
and works ; West Ham Cemetery ;
Jews' Cemetery, ib.
Stratford Place, iv. 437 ; Stratford,

Lord Aldborough, ib.
Stratton, Charles S., "General Tom

Thumb," iv. 258; v. 210.
Stratton Street ; Lord Lynedoch ; Mrs.
Coutts ; Baroness Burdett-Coutts ;
Sir Francis Bunlett, iv. 2S0, 281.
"Straw-bail," i. 155.
Straw, Jack, vi. 225.
Streatham, vi. 316; descent of the
manor; Manor House; mineral
si>rings, ;■/'. ; Streatham Place ;
Thrale ; Dr. Johnson and Mrs.
Thrale, 317; M.agdalen Hospital,
318.
Streatham Street, New Oxford Street,

iv. 488.
Street tramways, v. 188 ; vi. 4S3.
Streets of London ; their total length,

vi. 567.
Stroud Green; Staplcton Hall, ii. 275.

Strutt, Joseph, ii. 510, 543.

Strutton Ground, Westminster,iv.ii, 12.
I Stuart, Lady Arabella, ii. 73 ; v. 404 ;
' vi. 386.

Stuart, Lord Dudley Coutts. iv. 202.

Stuart, The royal family of, iii. 358, 360.

Stukeley, Dr. Win., iv. 483, 554, 556 ;
v. 321, 342.

Stulz, Messrs., tailors, iv. 303.
" Stunning Joe Banks ;" Rooker)-, St.
Giles's, iv. 4S8.

Subway, Tower. (Ji-,; Tower Subway.)

Subways for sewers, &c., v. 239 ; vi. 44.

"Sufferance Wharfs," vi. 141.

Suffolk House, Southwark, vi. 60.

Suffolk House, Strand, iii. 136.

Suffolk Lane ; Merchant Taylors'
School, ii. 28.

Suffolk Street, Pall Mall East, iv. 227 ;
Earls of Suffolk ; " Vanessa," Dean
Swift, ;/.. ; "Cock" Tavern, 228;
" Calves' Head Club," 229.

Sumner Street, Southwark, vi. 42.

" Sun and Hare," old sign, Southwark.
vi. 88.

Sunderland House ; Earl of Sunder-
land, i. 542 ; iv. 258.

Sun-dials, i. 177, 178; iii. 26, 12,, 243,
370, 376, 537 ; vi. 557.

Surgeon, College of. (.i'« College of
burgeons. )

Surgeons' Hall, Old Bailey, ii. 471,
472.

SuiTey Chapel ; Rev. Rowland Hill,vi.
374—380.

Surrey Commercial Dock, vi. 140, 141.

Surrey County Prison, vi. 482.

Surrey, Earl of, i. 394, 395 ; ii. 66, loS,
414; iv. 1S5.

.Surrey Institution, vi. 382.

Surrey Lunatic Asylum, vi. 4S2.

Surrey Sessions House, vi. 255.

Surrey Street ; Congieve ; Voltaire,
iii. 81.

Surrey The.itre, vi. 36S ; the " Roval
Circus .and Equestrian Philharmonic
Academy ; " Charles Dibdin and
Charles Hughes ; horse-patrol to
protect visitoi-s ; riot, ib.; Grimaldi,
grandfather of the clown, 369, 370 ;
Delphini ; acting dogs ; Stephens's
"Lecture on Heads; " John Palmer ;
lessees ; burnt down and rebuilt ;
Elliston ; licensing system ; Thomas
Dibdin; the "Surrey;" T. P.
Cooke ; R. W. Elliston and Charles
Kemble, //'. ; Danby, scene-painter.
371 ; Davidge ; Osbaldiston ; Cres-
wick ; burnt down in 1865 ; rebuilt ;
residences of actors, //'.

Surrey Zoological Gardens, vi. 266,
267, 268 ; the menagerie ; picture
models .and fireworks ; Rev. C. H.
.Spurgeon's preaching ; the Music
Hall ; JuUien's Concerts ; the Hall
destroyed by fire ; temporary St.
Thomas's Hospital, ;/'.

Sussex, Duke of, iv. 407, 568 ; v. 142,

148, 150, 220.
Sussex House, Hammersmith, vl. 539.

Sutherland, Duke and Duchess of, iv.
122.

Sutton, Archbishop, ii. 402.

Sutton PUace, Hackney, v. 518.

Sutton Street, Soho ; Komaii Catholic
Chapel, iii. 189.

Sutton, Thomas, founder of the Charter-
house, i. 231 ; ii. 3S3— 386, 387,
392, 393 ; V. 518, 533.

GENERAL INDEX.

629

Swaine's Lane, Highgate ; formerly

Swine's Lane, v. 405.
Swallow Street, iv. 249, 253.
"Swan "and " Okl Swan" Taverns,

on the Thames, iii. 30S ; v. 67.
Swan Brewery, Chelsea, v. 68.
" Swan " Inn, Stockwell, vi. 328.
Swan Stairs, London Bridge, ii. 40.
" Swan " Tavern, Kulham, vi. 524.
"Swan" Theatre, Bankside, vi. 50,

383.

Swans in the Thames, iii. 302 ; swan
marks, ii. 23 ; " swan-upping," 303 ;
the "Swan with Two Necks,"iv. 17.

"Swearing on the Horns" at High-
gate, V. 413— 41 S.

" Sweaters," members of dissolute
clubs, iv. 57.

Swedenborg, Emanuel, biographical
sketch of, ii. 135, 304.

Swedish Church, Katclifif Highway,
ii. 135.

.Sweedon's Passage, Grub Street, ii. 243.

Swift, i. 41, 45, 105, 543 ; ii. 173, 363,
422 ; iii. 27 ; iv. 54, 125, 141, 153,
154, 166, 169, 202, 227, 263, 392,
450; V. 90, 124, 134, 144; vi. 54S.

Swimming, iii. 296 ; iv. 404 ; in the
Serpentine ; in the Thames ; Swim-
ming Club, ;/'.

Sword Blade Company, i. 540, 542.

.Sydenham, Dr., iv. 25(1.

Sydenham, vi. 303 ; beauty of the site,
//'.; medicinal springs, 304 ; Wells
House ; George IIL; Croydon Rail-
way ; Campbell, //'.; Thomas Hill,
305 ; growth of population, 304,
307 ; churches, 307 ; Sydenham
Park, ih. ; chapels, 30S ; schools ;
Crystal Palace, //'.

Sydenham Wells, vi. 294.

Synagogues, ii. 165 ; iv. 40S, 409,457.

Syringes for extinguishing fires, ii. 176.

"Tabard" Inn, Southwark, vi. 14, 15.

76 ; sign altered to the " Talbot ;"
Abbots of Hide ; old inn for pil-
grims to Becket's shrine, Canter-
bury ; Chaucer, tli.; Pilgrim's room,

77 ; characters in the "Canterbury
Tales," 81—84.

Tabarders, at Queen's College, Oxford,

vi. 84.
Tabernacle, Moorfields : Whitefield's

pulpit, ii. 198 ; John Wesley, 200.
Tackle porters, ii. 52.
Tailor's Almshouses, v. 315.
Talfourd, Justice, iv. 566 ; vi. 316.
"Tallies," Exchequer; burning of the

Houses of Parliament, iii. 502, 521.
Talleyrand, Prince de, iv. 316, 424;

v. 128.
Tallis, Thomas, composer of church

music, vi. 191.
Tanners' trade, Bermondsey, vi. 123 ;

tan-yards ; tan-pits ; tan-turf, 125.
Tapestry manufacture, Fulham, vi. 521.
Tarleton, I\ichard, his " Book of Jests,"

i. 276; ii. 174; vi. 55, 64.
Tart Hall, iv. 25 ; v. 47.
Task, Alderman, Sir John, his great

wealth, i. 64.
Tate, Nahum, vi. 62.
" Tattersall's " Auction-mart, Gros-

venor Place ; Richard Jattersall, v,

5 ; new auction-mart. Knights-
bridge, 27.

Tavistock Place, iv. 574 ; Francis
Douce ; John Pinkerton ; John
Gait ; Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt ;
Francis Baily, ii.

Tavistock Row, Covent Garden ; mur-
der of Miss Ray, iii. 260.

Tavistock Square, iv. 573 ; Tavistock
House; James Perry; Dickens;
his private theatricals ; Stanfield, 1//.

Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, iii.
119, 260.

Taylor, G. Watson, RLP., iv. 444.

Taylor, Michael Angelo, M.P., iv. 164.

T.aylor, Sir Herbert, G.C.B., v. 14, 275.

Taylor, the water-poet, ii. 51 ; iii. 74,
271, 309; vi. 47.

Taylor, Tom, i. 58, 59.

Tea-drinking ; tea-gardens, iv. 435.

"Tea-house" of William HL, St.
James's Park, iv. 50.

Tea, introduction and prices of, i. 45 ;
iii. 64, 266 ; iv. 62, 418.

Telegraph Department, General Post
Office; instruments, ii. 214 — 219.

Telegraph Hill, Hampstead, v. 506.

Telford, Thomas, iv. 2, 32.

Templars, i. 147 ; origin of the order ;
its first home in England ; removal
to the banks of the Thames ; rules of
the order; the Crusades, i/i.; decay
and abolition of the order, 14S.

Templar's House, Hackney, v. 519.

Temple, The, i. 55 ; Chaucer and
the ¥\iai; il>.: the Serjeants, 156;
the "Roses," 157 ; the flying
horse, 15S; revels and masques,
159, 160, 164; Sir Edward Coke;
Spenser, 160 ; Fire of London, 161 ;
Erskine, 165 ; the Gordon Riots ;
Eldon ; keeping terms ; George
Coleman, id. ; Dunning, Kenyon ;
Blackstone, Burke, and .Sheridan ;
epigrams, 166 ; Cowper's attempted
suicide, 173 ; murders, assaults,
robberies, and executions, 174 — 176;
sun-dials, 177, 178 ; Person ; Gurney ;
Rogers, 178 ; admission of mem-
bers ; student-life, 17S, iSo ; riots,
179 ; Alsatia ; old banquets and
customs, i/>. ; moots, 180 ; eminent
members, 182 ; the Inner Temple,
161 ; hall and library destroyed by
fire, ii.; the old hall ; its rebuilding,
164 ; new hall and library, 172 ;
garden, 179 ; Mr. Broome, gar-
dener, l8l ; rooks, 1S2 ; Middle
Temple, i. 158; the hall ; its roof,
busts, and portraits ; performance of
"Twelfth Night" in 1602, ii. ;
revels and masques, 159 — 1 64 ;
dicing, 164 ; revenue and accounts,
1S2 ; the garden ; catalpa-tree, li.:
Brick Court, 170 ; Crown Office
Row, 176; birthplace of Charles
Lamb, ii. ; Elm Court, Guildford
North, 173; Essex Court; the wig-
shop, 167 ; Fig Tree Court; fig-
trees in London ; Thurlow, 172 ;
Fountain Court; the Fountain, 171 ;
Garden Court ; Cioldsmith, 169 ;
Hare Court ; Sir Nicholas Hare ;
old pump, 167, 168 ; Inner Temple
Lane ; Dr. Johnson, 167 ; Charles
Lamb, li. ; King's Bench Walk ;
Mansfield ; Sarah, Duchess of Marl-
borough, 176 ; Paper Buildings;
destroyed by fire ; Tie\v buildings.

172 ; I'ump Court ; Tanfield Court ;
Chief Baron Tanfield, 157; Sarah
Malcolm, murderess, 1 74; Temple
Lane, 177.

Temple ; the "Outer" Temple, iii. 66.

Temple Bar, i. 23 ; iii. 63 ; the first
"wooden house;" historical pa-
geants, i. 23 ; rebuilt by Wren, 24 ;
heads of traitors, 27, 28, 29 ; plans
(or its removal, 30.

Temple Bar Memorial, iii. 20.

Temple Church, i. 150 ; its restora-
tions ; discoveries of antiquities,
ii-; penitential cell ; tombs of the
Templars, 152 ; stone coffins in
churchyard, 153 ; organ, 1 54.

Temple Club, iii. 75.

Temple .Station, Metropolitan Railway,
V. 231.

Ten Acres Field, iv. 305.

Tenison's School and Library, iii. 155,
167.

Tennis Courts, iii. 43, 46 ; iv. 231, 232,
236, 237 ; vi. 54.

Tennyson, Alfred, i. 44, 59.

Tenterden, Lord, i. 52.

Tenterden Street ; Royal Academy of
-Music, iv. 320.

Tewkesbury Buildings, Whitechapel,
ii. 145.

Thackeray, John ; almshouses, Lewis-
ham, vi. 246.

Thackeray, W. M., i. 57, 58, 89; ii.
399, 404 ; iii- 83 ; iv. 86, 141, 166,
169, 200, 202, 218, 251, 306, 574;
V. 104, 118, 124, 128, 140, 194,
221, 461 ; vi. 60, 205, 406, 458.

Thames, The River, iii. 2S7, 310 ; the
" Pool," ii. ; the stream at London
as a highway, iii. 287 ; conservancy
of the river, 2S9 ; view by Thomas
and Paul Sandby, //'.; " The Folly,''
a floating coffee-house, 290 ; Chinese
Junk, //'. ; Thames Police-station,
292 ; Royal Humane .Society's
Receiving-house, ii. ; Hungerford
Stairs, 296 ; floating swimming-
baths, ii.; open bathing, 297, 310 ;
Cowley's funeral, 297 ; Lambeth
Ferry, 299 ; James II. and the
Great .Seal, it. ; poetical eulogies,
287 — 301 ; banks of the river ;
trees and flowers, 300 ; waterside
scenes, 302 ; river desperadoes, 310;
fish ; swans, 302 ; "swan-upping,"
303 ; river waifs and dead-houses,
ii.; Thames watermen and wherry-
men, 305, 310 ; their licences and
fares, 305 ; tilt-boat for goods, 306 ;
water tournaments, 308 ; Doggett's
coat and badge race ; Dibdin's
ballad-opera. The ll'aterman; old
" .S\\'an " Inn, Chelsea, ii.; Taylor,
"the water -poet," 309; Lord
Mayors' "water-pageant;" funeral
of Anne of Bohemia ; Queen
Elizabeth ; the Maria IVood ;
City Company's barges ; Queen's
state barge ; Admiralty barge, ii. :
training-ships, 310 ; remarkable
frosts from 1150 to 1S14, 311 — 321 ;
Frost Fair in 1683 ; printing on the
ice, 313, 314, 315, 317, 320; dog-
grel verses, 313, 314, 320 ; "Blanket
Fair ; " bull-baiting ; sledges ;
coaches ; Charles II. and his family
on the ice, 315, 316 ; oxen roasted,
313, 314,316, 317; fatal and other
afcidents, 317, 320, 321 ; fo" and

630

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

" Frost Fair" of 1S14, 317 ; experi-
ments and wagers, 321 ; Captain
Boyton ; Scott, the American diver ;
high and low tides, ib. ; Victoria
Embankment, 322, 323 ; ancient
embankments, ib. ; Queen's visit by
water to the Coal Exchange, 337.
Thames Embankment, iii. 322, 323 ; v.

65-

Thames Police Station, iii. 292.

Thames Tunnel, ii. 129 ; .Sir M. I.
Brunei ; company formed ; Act of
Parliament ; progress of the works ;
teredo shield, ib. ; irruption of the
river ; narrow escapes, 1 30 ; loss of
life, 131 ; more accidents, 132; the
work completed, 134.

Thames Tunnel and Railway, vi. 139.

Thames Yacht Club, Royal, vi. 196.

Thanet Place, .Strand; the "Rose"
Tavern, iii. 63.

"Thatched House" Club, iv. 156.

"Thatched House" Tavern; iv. 154.

Thavies Inn, ii. 573.

Thayer Street, iv. 424.

Theatres, Modern ; statistics, vi. 574.
(^e-Adelphi, Astley's, &c.)

Theatres, Old : the Globe, Rose, Hope,
and Swan, Bankside, vi. 45—48;
"Cockpit," Drury Lane, iii. 39;
Pantheon, iv. 244 ; Blackfriars
Theatre, PK-iyhouse Yard, i. 200 ;
at Newington, I7tli century, vi. 258 ;
" The Theatre," .Shoreditch ; the
first theatre in London, ii. 195.

Theatrical licences, vi. 369, 370.

Theatrical portraits at the Garrick Club,
iii. 263.

Theed, William, sculptor, iv. 443.

Thelwall, Jolm, i. 413 ; ii. 275 ; iii. 47.

Theobald's Road, iv. 550.

Theodore, King of Corsica, iii. 182.

Thieven Lane, Westminster, iii. 483 ;
iv. 28.

Thieves and thieves' resorts, i. 74 ; ii.
426 ; iii. 39, 45.

Thirhvall, Bishop, Charterhouse School,
ii. 403.

" Thirteen Cantons," The, iv. 238.

Thistle Grove, Brompton, v. loi.

Thistlewood ; Cato Street Plot, ii. 76,
94. 298, 454; iv. 340. 4'l; v. 315.

Thomson, James, poet, ii. 99, 408 ; iv.
79. "23. '41. 243 : vi. 544.

Thornhill, L.ady, vi. 554.

Thornhill, Sir James, i. 250, 254, 255,
388, 530, 544 ; iii- 146, 159. "94. 262,
367 ; iv. 536 ; V. 207 ; vi. 278.

Thornton, Bonnell, i. 129, 130, 207,
278 : iii. 273 ; V. 80.

Thrale and Mrs. Thrale, vi. 34, 35, 317.

Thrale, Miss (Lady Keith), iv. 286.

Threadncedle Street, i. 21, 531 ; Roman
pavements ; church of ,St. lienet
Fink ; .Merchant Taylors' Hall, 531 ;
march of the archers, 536 ; Hall of
Commerce ; Edward Moxhay, ib. ;
beggars, 537 ; " Baltic " Coffee-
house ; St. Anthony's School ;
Laneham ; .SirThom.is More ; Whit-
gift ; " North and South American"
Coffee House, //'.; South Sea House
and Company, 538 ; .South Sea
Bubble, 539 — 543 ; Charles Lamb,

544-
"Three Brushes" Inn, Southunrk, vi.88.
"Three Chairmen " Tavern, iv. 333.
"Three Compasses " Inn, Ilornsey, v.

430-

"Three Compasses," Pimlico, v. 9.
"Three Cranes," Hackney, v. 516.
" Three Cranes," in the Vintry, i. 44 ;

Ben Jonson ; Pepys ; Elizabeth

Cromwell, ii. 20.
"Three Cranes," Poultry, i. 41S.
Three Crown Court, Southwark, vi. 58.
"Three Crowns," Stoke Newington,

V. 538-
"Three Goats' Heads" Inn, Lambeth,

vi. 392.
" Three Jolly Pigeons ; " Cauliflower

Club, ii. 435.
"Three Kings" Tavern, iv. 275.
"Three Merry Boys" Inn, Lambeth,

vi. 392.
" Three Morrice Dancers " Tavern,

Old Change, i. 347.
" Three Squirrels " Inn, Lambeth, vi.

392.
" Three Tuns " Inn, Southwark, vi. 88.
" Three Tuns," Chandos Street, iii. 26S.
"Three Widows," Southwark, vi. 89.
Throckmorton, Sir Nicholas, i. 395,

515; ii. 190.
Throgmorton Avenue, i. 522.
Throgmorton Street, i. 515, 516, 520.
" Thumb, General Tom," v. 210.
Thurloe Place and Square, v. 104.
Thurlow, Lord, i. 45 : iv. 556 ; vi. 314.
Thurtell, murderer, iii. 35, 381.
Thynne, Lord John, iii. 422.
Thynne, Thomas, assassination of ; his

tomb, iii. 419 ; iv. 227, 277.
"Tichborne Case, The," iii. 562.
Tichbome Court, Holborn, iii. 215.
Tichborne, Sir Robert, Lord Mayor, i.

404.
1 Tickell's poem, " Kensington G.ardens,"
1 V. 153, 158.
Ticket porters, ii. 52.
"Tiddy-doll," vendor of gingerbread,

iv. 219, 346.
Tides, high and low, in the Thames,

iii. 321.
Tilbury, Messrs. ; the "Tilbury, " \-.

262.
TiUotson, Archbishop, iii. 45 ; v. 569 ;
Tilney Street, Park Lane ; Soame

Jenyns ; Mrs. Fitzherbert, iv. 368.
Tilt-boats, vi. 196.
"Tilt Yard" Coffee-house, iv. 82.
Tilt-yard, Whitehall Palace, iii. 341,

344. 364-
Times Newspaper ; its history, i. 209 —

.215, 478 ; V. 25.
Time-signals, General Post Ofiice, ii.

218.
Tite, Sir William, F.R.S., .NLP., i.

505, 507 ; V. 13.
" Tityre-Tus," dissolute clubs, iv. 57,

166.
Tobacco ; Iiill-he.id of tobacconist,

h-mp. Queen Aime, vi. 13.
Tol)acco-box of the Past Overseers' .So-
ciety, St. Margaret's, W'estminstcr,

•ii- 575. 576.
Tobacco Warehouse, London Docks,

ii. 125.
Tokenhouse Yard ; farthing tokens, i.

5'5- . .

Tokens, Tr.-idesmcn s, 1. 514, 515 ; iv.

21S, 248; vi. u, 86, 87, 88, 89.
Told, Silas, preaching in Newgate, ii.

447. 448.
"Ton\ o' Bedlams," vi. 351.
"Tom's" Coffeehouse, Birchin Lane,

ii. 173.
" Tom's" Coffee-house, Russell Street ;

literary club ; old snuff-box, iii.

278.
"Tom s" Coffee-house, Strand, iii. 65.
"Tom Thumb, General," iv. 258.
Tomkins and Challoner ; executed, i.

94, 3S9; ii- 5'0-
Tompion, Thomas, watchmaker, i. 53.
Tonbridge Chapel, v. 366.
Tonson, Jacob, i. 46 ; ii. 556 ; iii. 77,

79-

Tooke and Barber, Queen's printers, i.
218.

Tooke, Home, i. 410.

Tooke's Court, i. 88.

Tooley Street, vi. 13, 14 ; St. Olave's
Street ; Bridge House, ib. ; a cor-
ruption of " St. Olave's Street ; "
fires; Topping's Wharf, 102, 103; St.
Olave's Church, 104 ; fires at Top-
ping's, Fenning's, and Cotton's
Wharves, vi. 105 ; the " Three
Tailors of Tooley Street," 108.

Topham, the "Strong Man," ii. 268,

304, 305-

Torregiano, in. 436, 439.

Toten Hall, Manor of, v. 303.

Tothill Fields Prison, iv. 10 ; the old
Bridewell, Westminster ; old gate-
way ; Howard ; present arrange-
ments, ib.

Tothill Helds, Westminster, iii. 478 ;
iv. 14; origin of "Tothill;"
punishment of necromancers ; fair
and market tournaments ; trial by
combat ; pest - houses ; burials ;
plague, ib. ; "maze," 16; race-
course ; bear-garden ; butts, ib. ;
duels ; highwaymen, 16 ; West-
minster Fair, 17 ; v. 3.

Tothill Street, Westminster, iv. 17 ;
distinguished residents ; Swan Yard ;
"Cock," or "Cock and Tabard"
Inn, 18 ; Stourton House ; Dacre's
Almshouses, 12.

Tottenham ; Tottenham High Cross, v.

549 ; division of parish into wards ;
extent and boundaries ; Waltheof,
Earl of Huntingdon ; Domesday
Book ; manor of " Toteham ; "
descent of the manor ; David Bruce,
King of Scotland ; Dean and Chapter
of St. Paul's, //'. ; Lord Colerame,

550 ; Hermitage and Chapel of .St.
Anne ; " Seven Sisters ' public-
houses ; the seven trees ; the Green,
//'. ; the high cross, 551 ; "Bower
B.anks," 552 ; Cook's Ferry, 553 ;
Bleak Hall ; almshouses; "George
and Vulture " Tavern, ib. ; Roman
Catholic chapel, 554 ; Bruce Castle,
residence of the father of David
Bruce, ib. ; successive buildings ;
)iresent school, 556 ; Bruce Grove,
557 : .Sailniakers' Almshouses ; All
Hallows, Church ; Mosel river, //'. ;
Tottenham (Jraniinar .School, 561 ;
St. Loy's Well ; Bishop's Well, ib. :
White Hart Lane, 562 ; Wood
Green; Tottenham Wood; "Tur-
nament of Tottenham," //'.; sanit.iry
im|)rovcmenls, 563.

Tottenham Church, v. 560 ; its history ;
tower, 557 ; porch, 558 ; hagio-
scope ; font ; monuments and
brasses, //.. ; restoration of the
church, 560 ; chantry ; bells, 561.

Tottenham ("ouit, v. 304.

Totlciihani Court Road, iv. 477 ; Tottcn
Hall inanor-housc ; William de Tot-

Tournaments, i. 315

339 ; "'■

496; iv. 14; vi. 166, 169, 171.

Tower, The, ii. 60 ; Roman and Saxon
fortresses ; work of Gundulf, Bishop
of Rochester ; Henry III. ; em-
bankment, water-gate, and wharf,
ib. ; rights of the warden to use
" kiddles " or nets, 62 ; White
Tower ; inscriptions ; crypt ; ban-
queting-hall ; Chapel of St. John
the Evangelist, il). ; Maud Fitz-
walter, 63 ; inner and outer wards ;
towers ; access of citizens to the
king ; courts of justice, ib.; dis-
tinguished prisoners ; executions,
63 — 76 ; murder of the young
princes, 66 ; escape of Lord Niths-
dale, 76 ; inscriptions by prisoners,
62, 68, 69, 70 ; Jewel House and
Regalia, 77 ; crown jeweb pledged,
80 ; Keeper of the Regalia ; Master
of the Jewel House, tb.; Col. Blood's
attempt to steal the crown, 81 ; the
Armouries, inventory of armour,
tfinp. Edw. VI., !?'.; supposed spoils
of the Armada ; "collar of torment,"
82 ; armouries arranged by Dr.
Meyrick, 83 ; improvements by
Planche ; Horse Armoury ; chain-
mail ; plate-armour, ib. ; block ;
heading-axe ; thumb-screws, 86 ;
Small Arms Amioury ; Train Room;
naval relics; curiosities, 87 ; "Con-
stable of the Tower," 88 ; warders ;
their dress ; ceremony of " locking-
up ;" Tower Coroner ; Menagerie ;
Keeper of the Lions, ib. : the Moat ;
stone shot, 89 ; Church of St. Peter
ad Vincula, go, 92 ; place of execu-
tion, 93 ; Flamsteed's observatory ;
the Tower ghost, 94.

Tower Bridge, vi. 117.

Tower Crecy, Notting Hill, v. i8o.

Tower Hamlets, Tlie, parliamentary
borough, ii. 98.

Tower Hill ; scaffold and executions,
ii. 95 ; old liouse, 98 ; Roman wall,
114; Trinity House, 115; fair,
117.

Tower Liberties, Perambulation of the,
ii. 96.

Tower Royal, or Queen's Wardrobe, i.

SSI-
Tower Subway, The, ii. 123.
Towers, Dr. Joseph, ii. 327,

tenhall ; Domesday Book ; manor
leased to Queen Elizabeth ; Fitzroys,
Lords Southampton ; turnpike gate ;
Tottenham Court Fair; wrestling;
cock-fighting; female pugilists;
"Gooseberry Fair;" theatricals;
highwaymen ; depository for dead
bodies; "T.ihernacle," //'. ; Rev.
George Whitefield, 478 ; his monu-
ment ; "Evangelicalism;" Top-
lady ; Bacon, sculptor ; John
Wesley ; death by lightning, ib. ;
"King John's Pal.ice," public-
house, 479 ; tame rats ; Moses and
Son ; Shoolbred & Co. ; Hewetson ;
Peg Fryer, centen.irian ; " Blue
Posts" Tavern; Bozier's Court, //'.

Tottenham Street ; Prince of Wales's
Theatre, iv. 473.

Tottenham Wood, v. 562.

"Touching" for king's evil, iii. 353;
iv. no.

"Tournament of Tottenham," satire,
tc»i/>. Henry VII., v. 562.

GENERAL INDEX.

Towneley, C. ; Towneley Marbles, iv.

44. 459, Soo.
Townsend, Bow Street runner, ii. 135,

299.
Townshend, Marchioness of, iii. 376 ;

v. 365.
Toxophilite Society, iii. 177; v. 185 ;

Gardens in the Regent's Park, 276 —

278 ; Finsbury Archers ; history of

Archery, ib.
Toynbee Hall, Whitechapel, vi. 572.
Tradescant family, vi. 446 ; John

Tradescant, his house and museum,

vi- 334-
Tradesmen's tokens, i. 514; iv. 218,

248; vi. II, 86, 87, 88, 89.
Trafalgar, Battle of; model, iii. 335.
Trafalgar Square, iii. 141 ; the site ; its

formation, removal of courts and

alleys, ib. ; Nelson Column, 142 ;

fountains ; statues of George IV.,

Flavelock, Napier ; College of Phy-
sicians, lb.
Traffic statistics, iv. 472.
Train, G. F. ; street tramways, v. 188.
Trained-bands, i. 309, 370; ii. 161,

196 ; iv. 378 ; V. 87 ; vi. I09.
Training-ships in the Thames, iii. 311.
Traitors' Hill, Highgate ; Gunpowder

Plot, v. 405.
Tramways, Street ; v. 1S8 ; vi. 483.
Travellers' Club, iv. 145.
Treadmill, its introduction, ii. 299 ; vi.

320.
Treasury Buildings, Whitehall, iii. 38S ;

built by Sir John Soane ; altered by

.Sir C. Barry ; Privy Council Office ;

Home Office ; Board of Trade ;

oath of the Clerk of the Privy

Council, ib.
Trees in Kensington Gardens, v. 155,

156, 160; in Greenwich Park, vi. 207.
Trelawney, Sir Harry, his romantic

marriage, i. 564.
Trench, Rev. Richard Chevenix, Dean

of Westminster, iii. 461.
Trevor, Sir John, expelled from the

House of Commons, i. 77 ; iii. 23.
Trial by combat, iii. 563; iv. 14 ; vi.

394-
Trinity Chapel, Conduit Street, iv.

323-
Trinity Church, Knightsbridge, v. 22.
Trinity Church, Osnaburgh .Street ; .Sir

John Soane, v. 300.
Trinity Church, Trinity Square, vi. 253.
Trinity Corporation ; its establishment

at Deptford ; powers and privileges ;

removal to Tower Hill, ii. 115, I16.
Trinity Hospital, Greenwich, vi. 196.
Trinity House, ii. 11 5, 1 16 ; constitution,

powers, and duties of the Corpora-
tion ; former and present buildings ;

pictures ; museum ; masters, //'.
Trinity Street, .Square, and Church,

Southwark, vi. 253.
"Triumphal Chariot" Tavern; .Steele

and Savage, iv. 2S8.
True cross. Relic of the, iii. 404 ; iv.

76, 105.
Truefitt, hairdresser, iv. 304.
"Trumpet," Shire Lane; Trumpeters'

Club, i. 70, 71, 73.
Truro, Lord, v. II.
Trusler, Dr., ii. 323.
Tudor, Owen, vi. 119.
Tufton Street, Westminster, iv. 36 ;

Architectural Museum ; cock-pit, ib.
Tulip mania, v, 51,

631

"Tumble-down Dick" Tavern; Richard
Cromwell, vi. 55.

Tun, The, a prison in Cornhill, ii. 170.'

Tunnel, Thames. (.Sir Thames Tunnel.)

Tumuli, Blackheath, vi. 224.

Turf Club, iv. 2S5.

Turkey Company, vi. 236.

"Turk's Head" Inn, Covent Garden,
iii. 285.

"Turk's Head" Tavern, Soho, iii.
178 ; Dr. Johnson's Literary Club ;
Society of Artists, 179.

Turnagain Lane, ii. 48S.

Turner, Charles, A.R.A., v. 40S.

Turner, J. M. W., R.A., i. 253 ; iii.
119, 146, 267 ; iv. 447 ; V. 86.

Turner, Mrs. Anne, executed, i. 280 ;
ii. 74 ; V. 189, 190.

Turner, Sharon, iv. 54S.

Turner, Sir Gregory Page ; South Sea
Stock, i. 543.

Turner's Wood, Hampstead, v. 446.

Turnham Green, vi. 560 ; Prince Ru-
pert's encampment ; battle of Brent-
ford, ii.; flight of the Royalists,
561 ; pursued by the Earl of Essex ;
plot to assassinate William HI.;
highwaymen ; Lord Mayor Saw-
bridge robbed ; " Pack Horse "
Inn ; " King of Bohemia's Head ;"
gardens and nurseries, ib.; Lock-up
Hall," 562.

Turnniill Street, ii. 425 ; thieves and
highwaymen ; Cave's cotton-mill ;
\ Dr. Thomas Worthington ; Turn-
' mill Brook, ib.

Turn-overs; "piccadillas," iv. 236.
I Turnpikes, iv. 407 ; v. 122, 177, 257,
I 303, SoS.

! Turnstile Alley, Holbom, iii. 50.
I Turnstile, Great and Little, Lincoln's
, Inn Fields, iii. 215.

Turpin, Dick, ii. 275, 309 ; iv. 20,
435 ; V. 381, 524.

Tusser, Thomas, i. 419.

Twining and Co., early sale of tea, iii. 64.

Twiss, Horace, i. 213.

"Two Chairmen, The," Tavern, iv. 82.

"Two F'ans," Leadenhall Street ;
Motteux's India House, ii. iSS.

"Two Heads, The;" a dentist's sign,
iv. 234.

Twyn, John ; executed for sedition,
barbarous sentence, v. 196.

Tyborne, Village of, iv. 43S.

Tyburn and Tyburnia, iv. 438; v. 189;
the Tye-bourn ; execution of Roger
de Mortimer; elms; the "Tyburn
Trees ; " early executions ; gallows
removed from St. Giles's Pound ;
executions of priests and highway-
men ; the cart, ib. ; murderers,
traitors, housebreakers, sheep -
stealers, forgers, "Morocco men,"
190; Mrs. Turner, poisoner ; Jack
Sheppard ; Jonathan Wild, ib.;
Catherine Hayes ; Tom Clinch ;
Earl Ferrers, 192 ; Hackman ; Dr.
Dodd, 193; ".Sixteen-string Jack,"
194: M'Lean ; Claude Duval, 195;
early executioners ; Bull ; Derrick ;
theBrandons; Dun; "Jack Ketch,"
lb.;" "Tyburn Ticket," 197 ; regi-
cides, 199 ; "Tyburn Road," 200 ;
Hogarth ; penance of Queen Hen-
rietta Maria, ib.; exact site of the
gallows, 201 ; seats to witness exe-
cutions, 202 ; Oxford and Cam-
bridge Squares and Terraces, ii.;

632

OLD AND NEW. LONDON.

Connaught Place, 203 ; residence
of Queen Caroline ; Princess Char-
lotte ; Sir Augustus D'Este ; T.
Assheton-Smitli, ih.

Tyburn Road. (Set O.xford Street.)

Tyburn Turnpike, iv. 407.

Tyburn, various places of execution
so called, iv. 546.

Tyers, Thomas, proprietor of Vauxhall
Gardens, vi. 450, 465.

Tyler, Wat, his rebellion, i. 156, 551 ;
li. 24S, 339, 404 ; iii. 95 ; vi. 9,
145. 225, 436.

Tyrconnel, Duchess of, "the White
Milliner," iii. 104.

Tyrrell, Sir James, murder of the
young princes, ii. 66.

Tyrrell, \ ice-.\dniiral, his monument,
Westminster Abbey, iii. 417.

Tyssen family, v. 526 ; Hackney and
SliacklewcU ; Francis Tyssen ; lying
in state at Goldsmiths' Hall ; costly
funeral, //'.

U.

Umbrellas ; Jonas Hanway, iv. 471.
Underground London ; its railways,

subways, and sewers, v. 224 — 242.
Undertakers, vi. 473.
Union Club, iv. 146.
Union Street, Southwark, Police Court,

. y- 59-

Unitaiian Chapel, Stamford Street, vi.
. 3S1.

Unitarian Chapels, iii. 69 ; iv. 458.

University Boat Race, vi. 500.

United Kingdom Benefit Society, iv.
562.

United Service Museum, iii. 335 ;
models of battles of Waterloo and
Trafalgar ; arms and armour ; relics
of Sir John Franklin ; lectures, ib.

United Service Club, iv. 145.

University College, iv. 304, 569.

University College Hospital, iv. 570.

University Hall, iv. 570, 573.

" Unknown Tongues," iv. 572.

Unstamped ne\\'spapers, i. 132.

Upper Baker Street ; Mrs. Siddons, v.
261.

Upper Bedford Place, iv. 566.

U(iper Belgrave .Street, v. 11.

Upper Berkeley Street ; West London
Synagogue, iv. 409.

Upper Brook Street; "Single-speech
Hamilton;" Lady Molesworth
burnt to death, iv. 373.

I'pper Bryanston .Street, iv. 40S.

Upper F'itzroy Street, iv. 476.

Upper Grosvenor .Street, iv. 370 ;
Grosvenor House ; Duke of West-
minster ; the Grosvenor Gallery, ib.

Upper St. .Martin's Lane, iii. 158.

Upper Seymour Street, iv. 408 ; Camp-
bell ; I'aoli ; Boswell ; Peel, ib.

Upper Thames Street, ii. 17; noble-
men's mansions ; Cold Harbour
.Sanctuary ; the Erber ; Scropes
and Nevilles ; Sir Francis Drake,
18 ; Qucenhithe, 19; the "Three
Cranes " tavern, 20 ; the Vintry and
Vintner's Hall, 21, 22 ; College
Hill, 24; St. Michael's, Paternoster
Koyal, 26; Suffolk Lane; Merchant
Taylors' School, 28 ; St. James's,
Garlick Hythc, 32; Steel Yard;
Hall of the Merchants; Holbein's

pictures, i!>. : Roman remains,
river wall, 34 ; Paul's Wharf, 35 ;
Boss Alley, 36 ; Lambeth Hill ;
St. Mary Magdalen ; St. Nicholas
Cole Abbey, ;/'. ; Fyefoot Lane,

38 ; Little Trinity Lane ; Painter
Stainers' Hall, ib. ; Garlick Hill,

39 ; Queen Street ; Dowgate Hill ;
Lawrence Poultney Hill ; Skinners
Hall ; St. Lawrence Poulteney
Church, ib. ; All Hallows the Great
Church ; Swan Stairs, 40 ; Dyers',
Joiners', and Plumbers' Halls, 41.

Urban Club, at St. John's Gate, ii. 321.

Usher, Archbishop, iii. 349.

Uwins, Thomas, R.A., v. 213.

Uxbridge House, iv. 305.

Uxbridge Road. {Scf Oxford Street.)

Vaccination ; Rev. Rowland Hill, vi.

376;
Valangin, Dr. de ; his house on Hermes

Hill, ii. 2S4.
Vale of Heath, Kanipstead, v. 457.
Valence, Aymer de. Earl of Pembroke,

ill. 447.
Valence, William de. Earl of Pembroke,

'' iii- 433-

Valentines, ii. 212.

Valpy, Dr. ; " Delphine Classics," i.

loS.
V''anbrugh, Sir John, Clarencieux, i.

298; iii. 332; iv. 209, 212; v. 130;

vi. 230.
Van Butchell, Martin, iv. 335, 549 ;

vi. 419.
Vandertrout's shop-signs, i. 129.
Van der Velde, Cornelius, iv. 256 ; v.

24-

Van Dun's Almshouses, Westminster,
iv. 21.

Vandyke, i. 209, 302 ; iii. 189, 352 ;
vi. 243, 563.

Vanhomrigh, Miss ; " Vanessa," iv. 227.

Varley, John, v. 459.

Vaudeville Theatre, iii. Iig.

Vauxhall, vi. 467 ; boat-racing ; boule-
\ard proposed by Loudon ; fort ;
Marquis of Worcester ; London
Gas Company's works, ib. ,- Price's
Candle Factory ; old inns, 468.

Vauxhall Bridge, iv. 9.

Vauxhall Gardens, vi. 44S ; John
\'.iux ; "Stock-dens," the residence;
" Spring Gardens," the grounds; Sir
.Samuel Morland ; Addison's " Sir
Roger de Coverley," ;/'.; " Copped
Hall," 449 ; the fountains; Jonathan
Tyers ; " ridotto al fresco ; " Rou-
biliac's statue of Handel, ;/'. ;
Tyers, jun. ; "Tom Restless," 450;
pictures by Hogarth; llayman ;
guard of soldiers, 452 ; nightingales,
448, 453 ; evening entertainments ;
illuminations ; Horace Walpole ;
party, 454 ; Fielding ; dark walks ;
Goldsmilh, 455 ; waterworks, 456 ;
Sir John Dinely, 457 ; Thackeray's
"rack" punch; .Madame Saqui ;
Duke of Wellington and Dickens,
458 ; gardens described, //'. ; the
orchestra; pavilion, 459; statues;
Italian walk, ib. ; picture, ".Milk-
maids on Mayday," 460 ; Albert
Smith, 461; "Vauxhall slices,''
464; fireworks and firework tower;

balloon ascents ; "Nassau" balloon,
ib. ; Simpson, master of the cere-
monies ; auction sale. 465 ; gardens
closed ; final sale, 466.
V'auxhall plate-glass works, vi. 424.
\'auxhall Regatta, vi. 467.
Velluti, vocalist, iv. 243.
Venetian Galleys; "Galley Quay;

Galley Wall, vi. 132.
Vere Street, Clare Market; Theatre,

iii- 39, 44-
Vere Street, Oxford Street, iv. 442 ;
De Veres, Earls of Oxford ; Rys-
brack ; St. Peter's Chapel, ib.
Vernon, Admiral, iv. 344.
Vernon, Robert ; his gift to the National

Gallery, iii. 146.
Vestris, Madame, iii. 233 ; iv. 352,

473 ; V. 220; vi. 515.
Veterinary College, Royal, v. 322.
, Victoria Embankment, iii. 322—328 ;
ancient embankments of the river ;
I railways and stations ; new City of
London School ; ornamental garden ;
Cleopatra's Needle ; Savoy Theatre,
I Jb.

Victoria Gate, Hyde Park, iv. 395.
j Victoria, Her Majesty Queen, i. 26 ;
I ii- 376, 377. 502 ; iii- 99. 4>o.
I 533; IV. 70, 74, loi, 102, 179;
i V. 14S, 149, 150, 159; vi. 536.
; Victoria Hospital for Sick Children,
I V. S3.

i \ ictoria Park, v. 50S ; purchase of the
! ground ; boundaries ; e.xtent ; de-
j scription ; lakes ; boating ; Chinese
pagoda ; flower-beds ; tropical
plants, ib. ; love of flowers at the
East-end, 509 ; orchestral bands ;
toy yacht-club ; bathing ; cricket ;
gymnasium ; drinking-fountain, //'.
I Victoria Railw.iy Station, v. 41.
i Victoria .Street, Westminster, iv. 40,
Victoria Suspension Bridge, Battersea.

(See Chelsea Suspension Bridge.)
Victoria Theatre, vi. 393; the "Co-
burg ; " Cabanelle, builder, ;/.. ,•
i patrols to protect visitors, 394 ;
[ Kean ; T. P. Cooke ; Grimaldi :
I name changed to the "Victoria:"'
I'aganini ; " looking-glass" curtain;
j fatal accidents ; closed in 1S71, ib. ;
melodrama ; the audience, 395 ;
j sale of properties, 396 ; re-opened ;

Miss Vincent, 39S.
I Victoria Tower, Houses of Parliament,
iii. 505.
Vigo .Street, iv. 30S.
1 Villiers Street, iii. 107.
Vincent Square, Westminster, iii. 478 ;

iv. 9.
Vine Street ; Little Vine Street, iv.
' 253.
Vinegar Yard; " 1 he Whistling

Oyster," iii. 2S2.
Vineyards, ii. 21, 335, 514; iv. 4, 49,

; 253; vi. 135, 521.

I Vineyard Walk, Clcrkenwell, ii. 335.

Vintners' Company and Hall, ii. 22 ;
Saxon and Norman vineyards ;
foreign wines ; prices ; right of
search ; charters and arms ; wine
patentees, //'. / p.ageant, 23 ; song ;
the Hall; swans in the Thames;
swan-marks, ib. ; "swanupping,"
iii. 303.

\intry, The; " Three Cr.ancs ; " Vint-
ner's Hall, ii. 20, 21.

Voltaire, iii. 81, 119, 267, 48} ; vi. 484.

GENERAL INDEX.

(>i3

Volunteer corps, Old, v. 139 ; vi. 285 ;

Camberwell ; Kensington ; their

c lours, il>.
Vyner, Sir Robert, Lord Mayor, i.

405. 436. 525. 527 ; i'- 8i-

\\\

Waithman, Robert, Lord Mayor, i. 66
—68,413,551.

Wakley, Thomas; the Lancet, iii. 121.

\Valbrook, i. 434, 557.

Waldegrave, Countess of, iv. 193.

Wales, Frederick, Prince of, iv. 88, I
102, 124 ; the Princess, 89.

Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of; Marl-
borough House, iv. 134, 343; v. 113,
286 ; vi. 249.

Walham Green, vi. 525 ; its name ; St.
John's Church ; Butchers' Alms-
houses, ib. ; Bartholomew Roque,
florist, 526; "Swan " Brewery, ?A

Walker, G. A. ; charnel-house, Enon
Chapel, iii. 32.

Wallace, Sir Richard, ii. 147 ; iv. 424.

Wallace, Sir William, ii. 10 ; vi. 10.

Wall, Governor, ii. 452.

Walleis, Henry, Lord Mayor ; Parlia-
ment of Edward L at his house, ii.

Waller, poet ; his conspiracy, i. 94 ;

. '"• 273. 572; iv. 51. 107. "O, 167-

Walpole, Horace, i. 206, 221 ; ii. 437 ;
iii. 182; iv. 56, 155, 157, 167, 211,
244, 246, 260, 269, 330, 351, 398,
407, 418; v. 24, 45, 78, 93, 135,
142, 195. 317. 354; VI. 347, 382,
400, 454, 533.

Walpole, Lady, iii. 439.

Walpole, Sir Robert, i. 538 ; iii. 38S ;
'V. 57, 59, 170, 207, 222, 279, 284,
307. 356> 401 ; V. 24, 53, 75, 146.

Walter, John, sen., founder of the
Times newspaper, i. 209.

Walter, John, jun. ; Ttines first printed
by steam, i. 213, 215.

Walton, Iz.iak, i. 46, 79, 82 ; ii. 225,
_ 332 ; iv. 28 ; v. 546, 551 ; vi. 334.

Waltzing, iv. 197.

Walworth, vi. 265 ; Surrey Zoological
Gardens, ib. ; Walworth Mechanics'
Institute, 268 ; Lock's Fields ; St.
Peter's Church, //'.

Walworth, Sir William, Lord Mayor,

>• 398, 555 ; ii- I. 2, 4. 5. 339. 44" ■
vi. 26S.

Wandle River, vi. 479.

Wandsworth, vi. 479 ; river Wandle ;
corn and paper mills ; distilleries ;
factories ; manure \\'orks, ib. ; French
refugees, 4S0 ; Huguenots' Ceme-
tery, 481 ; " Frying-pan Houses ; "
the Common ; Fishmongers' Alms-
houses (St. Peter's College) ; work-
house ; Surrey Prison ; Victoria
Patriotic Asylum, ib.; the " Craig
Telescope ; " Surrey Lunatic Asy-
lum, 482 ; Friendless Boys' Home,
483 ; Industrial School ; old tram-
way to Merstham ; Clapham Junc-
tion railway station ; Wandsworth
Bridge ; All Saints' Parish Church,
lb. : monuments, 4S4 ; .St. Anne's
Church; Roman Catliolic chapel;
Dissenting chapels ; eminent resi-
dents, lb ; hamlet of Garratt ;
" mayors " of Garratt, 485 ; the
elections, 486 ; Foote's farce, 4S8;

Wandsworth fair ; Burnt wood

Grange, ib.
Wapping, ii. 135 ; Execution Dock ;

Bugsby's Hole ; hanging in chains,

ib. ; arrest of Judge Jeffreys, 136;

stag hunt, ;^.,' tavern signs; "Wap-
ping Old Stairs," 137.
War Office, Pall Mall, iv. 129.
Warbeck, Perkin, iii 538 ; vi. 145.
Ward, Ned, "London Spy," i. 423;

ii. 206, 33S, 476 ; iii. 50, 346 ; iv.

166, 230 ; vi. 460.
Ward, Sir Patience, Lord Mayor ;

sentenced to the pillory, i. 405, 530,

536 ; ii. 40.
Wardour Street, iii. 196 ; furniture

dealers ; curiosities, ib. ; fortifica-
tions, iv. 238.
Wardrobe, The, Blackfriars, i. 301 ;

Masters of the Wardrobe ; the office

abolished, 302.
" Ward's Comer ;" the notorious John

Ward, v. 518.
Warner, Lucy ; the "Little Woman of

Peckham," vi. 274.
Warren, Samuel ; " Ten Thousand a

Year," iv. 312.
Warren Street ; Dr. Kitchiner, iv. 476.
Warwick Court, Holborn, iv. 553.
Warwick Gardens, v. 161.
Warwick Lane, ii. 439 ; house of the

Earls of Warwick ; bas-relief of

Guy of Warwick ; "Old Bell" Inn ;

" C3.\ford .•Xrms," 440, 431 — 434.
Warwick Road, Kensington, v. l5i.
Warwick Square, iv. 40.
Warwick Street, Pimlico, v. 40.
Warwick Street, Regent Street; Roman

Catholic Chapel, iv. 239.
Warwick Street, Spring Gardens, iv.

S2.

Warwick, the " King-maker," i. 240 ;

ii. 69.
Watch-house of St. Anne's, Soho, iii.

183.
W atchmen ; their nickname " Charhes;"

the Watchman's Box, iii. 22.
Water-carts, i. 335 ; iv. 388.
Watercress-beds, iv. 482 ; v. 183, 575.
Watercresses in Farringdon Market, ii.

497-

" Water-dock Essence," v. 1 85.

Water Gate, Buckingham .Street, iii.
32S.

" Watering - houses," for hackney
coaches, iv. 288.

Waterloo Barracks, in the Tower, ii. 93.

Waterloo, Battle of, i. 485 ; iii. 335 ;
iv. 1S9 ; vi. 376.

Waterloo Bridge, iii. 292 ; Sir John
Rennie, 293 ; cost of the bridge ;
its name ; Act of Parliament ; open-
ing ceremony, ib.; traffic, 294.

Waterloo Place, iv. 209.

Waterloo Road, vi. 409.

Waterlow, Alderman, i. 416.

Waterlow, Sir Sydney, Lord Mayor, v.

395. 405-
Waterlow Park, Highgate, v. 395,

405-

Waterman, Sir Geo., Lord Mayor, i. 405.

Watermen, Thames, 305, 310, 320 ;
licences ; fares ; coarse manners, ib.

Watermen and Lightermen's Company ;
Watermen's Hall, ii. 51 ; Acts of
Parliament ; freemen and appren-
tices ; fares of watermen ; Ta)'lor,
the "water-poet;" Watermen en-
rolled in the navy, ib.

Watermen's School, Wandsworth Lane,

vi-49i- „ „

Water supply, ii. 236 ; iv. 378, 385,

395, 43S ; V. 2», 183, 207, 237,

23S ; VI. 408, 478 ; statistics ; d.uly

consumption, 572.
Water tournament.s, iii. 308.
Waller's Gambling Club, iv. 284.
Watling Street; Roman road. i. 551 ;

vi. 224, 24S ; St. Augustine's

Church, i. 551 ; Tower Royal, or

(Queen's Wardrobe, ;/'. ; St. Antho-

lin's Church, 552 ; F'ire Brigade

Station, 554 ; St. Mary's .■\lderniary

Church, ib.
Watts, Dr., and Sir Thomas and Lady

Abney, i. 406 ; ii. 165 ; v. 540, 543.
Wax-work figures, iv. 419, 420; in

Westminster Abbey, iii. 447 ; Mrs.

Salmon's ; Madame Tussaud's, i\.

419, 420.
Weavers' Hall, ii. 237 ; William Lee

and the stocking-loom, 238.
Weaving ; silk-weavers in Spitalfields,

ii. 150.
Weber, Carl Maria von, iv. 457.
Webster, Benjamin ; the Haymarket

Theatre, iv. 226.
Webster, John, dramatist ; parish clerk

of St. Andrew's, Holborn, ii. 509.
Weddings. (See Marriages.)
Wednesday Club, Friday Street, i. 347.
Wedgwood, Josiah, iii. 195, 266, 332,

iv. 65, 12S, 33S.
H'eei/yyourtial {ijiy), iv. 299.
H'eeilp Medley (1717), iv. 314.
Weeks-'s Museum, Haymarket, iv. 221.
Weever, John, author of " Funeral

Monuments," ii. 328, 329, 338.
Weigh-house, Little Eastcheap, i. 431.
Weigh-house, Love Lane ; Presby-
terian Chapel, i. 563 ; John Clay-
ton ; Thomas Binney, 564, 565.
Welbeck Street, iv. 442 ; Welbeck

Priory, Notts ; Count Woronzow ;

Hoyle ; Mrs. Piozzi ; Martha

Blount ; Lord George Gordon ;

John Elwes, ib.
Welby, Henry, the Grub Street hermit,

ii. 242.
Well Close Square, ii. 144, 146.
Wellesley, Marquis, v. 25.
Wellington Barracks, St. James's Park,

iv. 47.
Wellington, Duke of, i. 116, 252, 388,

507 ; ii. 93; iii. 389, 531 ; iv. 59,

104, 197, 365, 425; v. 20,37, 75,

213; vi. 337. 458.
Wellington Street, Strand, iii. 284.
Wells, chalybeate and medicinal, iii.

21 ; V. 467, 469, 470, 472, 561 ; vi.

27. 293, 294, 304, 317, 344, 3S9.
Wells, Holy, iii. 21 ; vi. 129, 246.
Well Street, Hackney, v. 113.
Wells Street, Oxford Street ; Dr.

Beattie ; St. Andrew's Church, iv.

464.
Welsh Charity School, ii. 332.
Weltje, cook to George IV., vi. 545.
Wensleydale, Lord, iv. 374.
Wesley, Charles, iii. 482 ; iv. 430, 436 ;

vi. 338. ■
W esley, John, ii, 200, 227 ; iii. 482 ; iv.

478 ; V. 576 ; vi. 274, 323, 3S6.
Wesley, Samuel, i. 407 ; iv. 436.
Wesleyan College, Stoke Newington,

V. 542.
West, Benjamin, P.R.A., iii. 148, 254 ;

iv. 20S, 430, 466, 497.

634

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

lady

West, Miss; "Jenny Diver

pickpocket, v. 482.
Westbourne Green, v. 185, 224.
Westbourne Terrace, v. 186.
Westbourne, Tiie, v. 17.
West End, Hampstead, v. 503.
West Ham Park and Cemetery, v. 572,

573-

West London Railway. (See Middle
Circle Railway.)

\\'est London School of Art, iv. 457.

West London Synagogue, iv. 409, 461.

Westmacott, Sir Richard, K.A., iii.
447. 448 ; iv. 344, 395.

Westminster, City of; origin of its name,
iii. 5: its early histoi7,6; its growth;
municipal importance ; population
and civic position, 8, 9 ; establish-
ment of a market and wards ;
the " Liberties ' of Westminster ;
ecclesiastical and civil government ;
extent and boundaries, il>.; city and
Liberties, 567 ; iv. 45 ; Great Col-
lege Street, iv. 2 ; Little College
Street ; Barton Street ; Cowley
Street ; Abingdon Street ; Wood
Street ; North Street, il). ; Mill-
bank, 3 ; Peterborough House ;
Church of St. John the Evangelist,
lb.; Lord Grosvenor's residence, 4 ;
Vine Street ; vineyards, A; Horse-
ferry Road, 5 ; Vauxhall Regatta ;
Gas, Light, and Coke Company, 6 ;
Page Street ; Millbank Prison, 8 ;
Vauxhall Bridge, 9 ; Vauxhall
Bridge Road ; Vincent Square ;
Church of St. Mary the Virgin, zO.;
Rochester Row; Emery Hill's Alms-
houses, 10 ; St. Stephen's Church ;
Tothill Fields Prison ; the Old
Bridewell, il>.; Grey Coat School ;
Strutton Ground, 1 1 ; Dacre Street,
12; King Street, 27; Gardener's
Lane, 29 ; Delahay Street ; Duke
Street ; Fludyer Street, ib. ; Great
George Street, 30 ; Sessions House ;
Westminster Hospital, 33 ; National
Society ; Her Jlajesty's Stationery
Office, 34 ; Parker Street ; Crimean
Memorial, 35 ; Great Smith Street,
iv. 35 ; Bowling Alley, 36 ; Little
Dean Street ; Tufton Street, ib. ;
Great Peter Street ; St. Ann's
Lane, 38 ; Old and New Pye
Streets, 39 ; Orchard Street ; " The
Rookery ; Palmer's Village, 40 ;
Victoria Street, 41 ; Duck Lane ;
Horseferry Road ; Queen Anne's
Gate, ib. ; distinguished residents,
35—41-

Westminster Abbey, iii. 6, 8, 394,
395 ; its early history ; founded by
Sebert ; legend of its dedication by
St. Peter, ib. ; Edward the Con-
fessor, 396 ; Abbot Laurentius,
397; abbots, 398 ; violation of sanc-
tuary, lb. ; Abbey surrendered antl
converted into a liishopric, 400;
present establishment founded by
Queen Elizabeth, 404 ; the Abbey
in the age of the I'kint.igenets ;
rules of the Benedictine Order,
400 ; Coronations — from I larold to
Queen Victoria, 410 ; massacre of
Jews, 402; funeral of James L,
404 ; iconoclasts, 405 ; Handel
Festivals, 408 ; repairs, 406, 409 ;
Queen Caroline, 410 ; its ex-
terior anrl interior, 413, 414 ; monu-

ment to Pitt, 416; Fox; Admiral
Tyrrell ; Congreve ; Mrs. Oldfield ;
Craggs, 417 ; Wordsworth; Robert
Stephenson ; Sir C. Barry ; George
Peabody ; Livingstone ; Sir C.
Lyell ; services in the nave, 418 ;
choir screen ; Newton's funeral and
tomb ; monuments to Thomas
Thynne ; his assassination, 419 ; to
Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovel,
420 : Major Andre ; Sir Charles
Carteret, 421 ; General Monk and
his family ; Dr. Busby, 422 ; King
Sebert ; Anne of Cleves ; Aymer
de Valence ; Edmund Crouchback,

423 ; Canning ; Peel ; Palmerston ;
Grattan ; Aberdeen ; Chatham,

424 ; Dukes of Newcastle ; Poet's
Corner, 425, 428, 430; choir and
stalls ; organ ; mosaic pavement,
422 ; portrait of Richard IL, ib.;
reredos, 423 ; Edward the Con-
fessor's work, 424 ; chapels and
royal tombs, 431 — 449 ; com-
munion-table ; marriage of Evelyn,
436 ; coronation chairs, 442 ; dis-
interment of the body of Edward L,
443 ; waxwork figures, 446 ; St.
Benedict ; Benedictine monasteries,
iii. 451 ; Chapter-house, 452; crypt;
vestibule from cloister; dimensions ;
wall paintings, ib.; meeting-place
of the Commons in Parliament from
1377 to 1547, 453 ; depository for
public records ; decay ; repairs ;
restoration, ib.; " Domesday Book,"
454; records removed; "Chapel
of the Pyx," the Treasury of Eng-
land ; great robbery, it>.; " Dark
Cloisters," 455 ; Little Cloister ;
Littlington Tower; bells; prison;
King's Jewel House; Great Cloister;
graves of early abbots; "Long
Meg ;" Plague, ib. ; the Abbey
establishment, 459 ; meetings of
Convocation ; Committee for Re-
vision of the Bible ; Bishopric of
Westminster, its suppression ; dis-
tinguislied Deans of Westminster,
ib.; precautions against fire, 461 ;
restoration of Chapter-house, iv.
270 ; water-supply from Hyde Park,
376, 400 ; lands in tlie suburbs be-
longing to, v. 14, 18, 95, 119, 206,
207, 243, 244, 440 ; vi. 323, 469.

Westminster Bridge, iii. 297 : the Old
Britige, 298 ; cost ; opening cere-
mony ; Labelye, the architect, ;/'.;
alcoves, 299 ; watchmen ; the new
bridge, ib.

Westminster Chambers, iv. 41.

Westminster Clul), iv. 296.

Westminster, Duke of, v. 4.

Westminster elections, iii. 257.

Westminster Hall, iii. 544 ; built by
Rufus ; coronation of Richard H. ;
Hall rebuilt, 545 ; " Evil May
Day ;" trial of 480 persons ; State
trials, 545, 546, 548, 550, 551,
554; the Hall flooded : Gunpowder
I'lot conspirators, 548 ; trial of
Charles I., 549; heads of Cromwell,
Ircton, and Bradshaw, exposed,
539 ; stalls of milliners and book-
sellers ; Courts of Law, 542, 543 ;
proclamation of Charles IL ; his
coronation bamiuct, 549 ; trial of
the Seven Bisliops, 551 ; .attempt to
burn the Hall, ib. : coronation

banquet of George IV. ; bill of fare,
554, 556 ; the Dymokes, champions
of England ; challenge at the coro-
nation banquets, 544, 554, 555, 556;
roof repaired ; art competition, 557.

Westminster Hospital, iv. 33.

Westminster, New Palace of. (See
Houses of Parliament.)

Westminster Palace Hotel, iv. 41.

Westminster, Royal Palace of, iii. 491 ;
extent and boundaries occuj^ied by
Canute ; rebuilt by Edward the
Confessor, ib.; birth of Edward I.,
494 ; Palace partially burnt and
pillaged ; stew-ponds ; the quin-
tain, ib.; Henry VI. presented to
the Lords of Parliament, 495 ; deatli
of Edward IV., ib.; Henry VIII.,
496 ; jousts ; fire ; removal of the
Court to Whitehall, ib. ; Court of
Requests, 497 ; Old House of
Lords ; Prince's Chamber ; Painted
Chamber, ib.

Westminster School, iii. 463 ; "College
of St. Peter ;" the old monastic
school, ib.; "Master of the No-
vices," 464 ; school established by
Henry VIII. and Elizabeth; elec-
tions to the Universities; "Queen's
Scholars," j'(^.; "challenges;" elec-
tion of "Captain;" tuition and
boarding fees, 465, 471 ; "hos-
pital ;" the plague, 466 ; college
hall ; school-room, 467 ; old cus-
toms, 469 ; Westminster "Plays;"
prologues and epilogues, 470 ; "Col-
lege Gardens ;'' the old dormitory,
471 ; rivalry with Eton School;
management, 466, 471, 472 ; " Ol d
Westminsters," 472, 474, 476 ;
"throwing the pancake; "' memorial ;
sports, 477; "Mother Beakley's ;"
battles of Scholars' Green, iii. 479.

Westminster and West of London
Cemetery, Brompton, v. loi.

Westminster Town Hall, iv. 21.

West Street, formerly Chick Lane,
ii. 425 ; " Red Lion " Tavern
(called "Jonathan Wild's house"
and "The Old House in West
Street "), 426 ; dark closets ; trap-
doors ; sliding panels ; escape of
thieves ; murders ; the house de-
molished, 426.

Weymouth Street ; B. W. Procter, iv.

437-
Whale in the Thames at Deptford, vi.

162.
Whales salted for food, ii. 2.
Wheatstone, Sir Charles, iv. 452 ; v. 242.
Wherrymen, Thames, iii. 305, 310 ;

"tilt-boat," for goods on the

Thames, iii. 306.
Whetstone at Fulham Palace ; lying

clubs; "lying for the whetstone,"

vi. 509, 510.
Whetstone Park, iii. 215.
Whig Green Ribbon Club, i. 45.
Whig "mug-houses," i. 141.
" Whistling Oyster,'' The, Vinegar

Vard, iii. 2S2.
Winston, Rev. William, ii. 512 ; vi. 107.
WliitbreaH, .SannicI, iv 465.
Wliitcomb Street ; " Hedge Lane," iv.

231.
White, Miss Lydia, iv. 374.
White, Sir 'I'homas, Lord Mayor,

founder of St. John's College, Ox-
ford, i. 401 ; ii. 29.

GENERAL INDEX.

63 S

Whitebait, vi. 197 — 200.

"White's" Club House, iv. 142.

" White's " Club, iv. 161. "

Whitechapel ; Strype ; Beaumont and
Fletcher ; Defoe ; St. Mary's
Church, ii. 142.

White Conduit House ; the first tavern,
ii. 279: Woty's "Slirubs of I'ar-
n.issus ;" " White Conduit Loaves ;"
the old conduit, '280 ; tea-gardens;
Chabert, the tire-king ; balloon as-
cents ; fireworks ; Christopher Bar-
tholomew, 281.

Whitecioss Street ; debtors' jirison ;
Nell Gwynne's bequest, ii. 2.38.

Whitelield, Rev. Geo., ii. 304 ; iii. 574 ;
iv. 478 ; V. 464 ; vi. 338 ; his Taber-
nacle, Finsbury, ii. igS.

Whitefield's Mount, Blackheath, vi. 226.

Whitefriai's ; Carmelite convent ; Wliite-
friars Theatre ; Alsatia a sanctuary, i.
155, 179; murder of Turner by Lord
Sanquhar, 183, 1S4, 185 ; Scott's
"Fortunes of Nigel," 1S6 ; .Shad-
well's "Squire of Alsatia," 187;
rules for the sanctuary, 189.

Whitefriars Gas-works, i. 195 ; theatre,
;■/'. ; Dorset House, 197.

Wliitehall ; the Palace ; manners of the
Court ; York Place ; Archbishop de
Grey; Wolsey, iii. 338; Henry
VIIL, 339 ; masque ; Anne Boleyn,
340 ; new buildings ; Holbein's
gateway; Edward VL ; Latimer;
Wyatt's rebellion ; tilting-matches,
341 ; Queen Elizabeth, 341,344,345;
masques ; Ben Jonson ; Inigojones ;
Charles L ; James L, 341, 342, 344 ;
" M.aster of the Revels;" licences
granted by him ; tilt-yard, 344 ;
anecdotes; Charles H.'s library, 345;
Pembroke House; Gwydyr House;
Local Government Board ; Board
of Trade ; Montagu House ; Rich-
mond Terrace, 377 ; Wallingford
House, now the .\dmiralty Office ;
semaphore, 3S3 ; the office of Lord
High Admiral, 384 ; Nelson's
funeral ; the Horse Guards ; Dover
House, 3S7 ; Treasury Buildings ;
Downing Street, 38S ; prime minis-
ters, 3S9; new Foreign, Lidian, and
Colonial Offices, 392.

Whitehall Evening fost, iii. 3S2.

Whitehall Gardens ; fashionable resi-
dences ; Lady Townshend ; Earl of
Beaconstield, iii. 328, 376 ; Sir
Robert Peel, 377.

Whitehall Palace ; the Banqueting
House,iii. 347, 364, 365, 367 ; execu-
tion of Charles L 347 ; Richard
Brandon, the reputed e.\ecutioner;
350 ; damaged ijy fire ; its extent,
360 ; the buildings described ; hall ;
chapel ; galleries ; additions by
Henry VlH. ; tennis-court ; cock-
pit ; Holbein ; his gateway and
pictures, 362 ; King Street gateway ;
terra-cotta busts, 363 ; tilt-yard ; bull
and bear baiting ; dancing ; Sir
Henry Lee, of Ditchley ; "touch-
ing" for the king's evil, 352 ; re-
storation of Charles H., 353 ; his
court and queen ; his death, 356,
357. 359; Inigo Jones; design for
the Palace, 364 ; Stone Gallery ;
lodgings of the Duke of York ami
Prince Rupert ; proposed completion
of the Palace, 365 ; Chapel Royal ;

ceiling by Rubens, 366 ; repaired
by Cipriani, 367 ; the clerical esta-
blishment; marriage of Queen Anne;
distriliution of royal alms ; ceremony
described, 368 ; yeomen of the
guard; "Beefeaters;" statue of
James H. ; Court removed to St.
James's, 369.
Whitehall Place ; Government offices,

iii- 3.34-
Whitehall Yard ; Fife House, iii. 33S :

Whitehall Stairs, 336.
"White Hart," Bishopsgate, ii. 152.
White Hart Court, Bishopsgate, ii. 158.
^Vhite Hart Court, Gracechurch Street,

ii. 174.
"White Hart" Inn,Knightsbridge, v.22.
"^Vhite Hart" Inn, Southwark ; Jack

Cade, vi. 15, 86 ; Sam Weller, 87.
W' hitehead, Paul, his writings ; " Hell

Fire Club," i. 99.
Whitehead's Grove, Chelsea, v. 88.
" White Horse Cellar," iv. 260.
" White Horse" Inn, Chelsea, v. 90.
" White Horse " Tavern, l-'riday Street,

i. 347-

White Horse Street, Park Lane ; Sir
Walter Scott, iv. 291.

" White House," The, .Soho, iii. 190.

" While Lion," Drury Lane, iii. 209.

"White Lion" Inn, Suuthwark, con-
verted into a prison, vi. 88.

" White Lion" Tavern, CornhiU, burnt
down, ii. 172.

Whitelock, masque before Charles I.
at Whitehall ; his minute account of
it, ii. 521.

Whitfield Street, iv. 476.

Whitgift, Archbishop, i. 537 ; ii. 566 ;
vi. 438.

Whitmore Bridge, Kingsland ; Sir
George Whitmore, v. 526.

Whitlock, Bulstrode, vi. 176.

Whittingham, Charles, printer ; the
" Chiswick Press," vi. 558.

Whittington Club, iii. 75.

Whittington, .Sir Richard, Lord Mayor,
i- 374. 377. 39S, 507 ; ii- 26, 243,
250, 364, 427, 441 ; his legendary
adventures; his benefactions; his
true history, v. 3S6, 387 ; Whitting-
ton's Stone and College, 388.

Wicker coffins, iv. 122.

Widows' Retreat, Hackney, v. 521.

Wig-makers, iii. 26.

Wigmore Street ; Ugo Foscolo, iv. 443.

Wigs, iv. 167 ; the busby, 459.

Wilberforce, Bishop, iii. 461 ; v. 119.

Wilberforce family ; burials at Stoke
Newington, v. 534.

Wilberforce, William, M.P., iii. 418;
statue in Westminster Abbey, v. 14,
95, 119; vi. 323.

Wild birds in London, iv. 52.

Wild, Jonathan, ii. 472, 475 ; iii. 32,
46 ; v. 190 ; vi. 62.

Wild Street, Dniry Lane, iii. 209 ;
Watts's printing-office ; Benjamin
Franklin's printing-press, iii. 214,
215.

"Wilderness, The," Spring Gardens,
iv. 79.

^ViIdwood House, Hanipstead ; Earl ol
Chatham, v. 448.

Wilkes, Jolin, Lord Mayor ; the A'orili
Briton, i. 107; his "Essay on
Woman," loS ; biographical sketch
of, 4ir, 41S ; ii. 324, 446, 496 ; iii.

538. 574 ;iv- 0°. 35. 170,345. 393.

54S ; v. 20, 122; "Wilkes anr)
Liberty" mobs, vi. 344.
Wilkes' riot; burning of the '•boot,'

i-35-
Wilkie, Sir David, R..\., iv. 458; v.

134. 305-
Wilkins, Bishop; his consecration,

ii. 526.
Wilkins, William, architect ; National

Gallery, iii. 146 ; iv. 569 ; v. 4.
William I., i. 237 ; iii. 401.
William II. ; Great Hall of Westminster

Palace, iii. 493, 544; vi. 119.
William HI., iii. 437, 446 ; iv. 50,

no, 183; v. 20, 129, 141, 142,

143, 144. 152; vi. 561.
William IV., i. 116, 413, 550; iii. 384,

410; iv. 334; V. 443.
Williams, Rev. Dr. Daniel ; his Free

Library, ii. 239 ; iv. 459, 570; v. 94,
Willis, Henry, Organs built by, v. 114.
Willis's Rooms; "Almack's," iv. 196;

lady patronesses ; Charles Kemble ;

Thackeray ; Charlotte Bronte, 200.
Will Office at Doctors' Commons, i.

2S3 ; at Somerset House, iii. 327.
Will Waterproof, i. 44.
Willoughby d'Eresby, Baroness, her

residence at the Barbican, ii. 223.
Willow Walk, Bermondscy, vi. 125.
Willow W.alk, Pimlico, v. 40.
" Will's " Coffee House ; Will LIrwin ;

Dryden ; Defoe ; Addison ; Pope,

iii. 276.
Wills preserved at Somerset House, iii.

327-

Wills, W. IL, i. 56—59 ; ii. 214.

Wilson, Andrew ; stereotyping, v. 323.

Wilson, Beau, iv. 543.

W^ilson, Richard, R.A., iii. 249 ; iv. 461.

Wilson, Samuel, Lord Mayor, i. 416.

Wilson, Sir Thomas, and Sir Spencer
Maryon, Barts., Lords of the Manor
of Hampstead, v. 440, 452.

\ViIton Crescent, v. 11.

Wilton, Miss Marie (Jlrs. Bancroft),

iv. 473-
Wilton Place, v. 11.
Wimbledon Common ; National Rifle

Association, vi. 500.
Wimbledon House, Strand, iii. in.
Wimpole Street ; Burke ; Duche.ss of

Wellington; Hallam ; the Chalons;

Admiral Lord Hood, iv. 437.
Winchester Hall, Southwark Bridge

Road, vi. 64.
Winchester House, Chelsea ; Bishops

of Winchester, v. 53.
Winchester House, St. James's Square,

iv. 1 84.
Winchester House, .Southwark ; palace

of the Bishops of Winchester, vi. 21 ;

James I. of Scotland, tb. ; described

by Stow, 29 ; gardens and park ;

.Southwark Park ; New Park .Street ;

Winchester Yard ; Cardinal Beau-
fort, il>. ; fire in 1814, 30.
Winchester Street, Bishopsgate ; Win-
chester House, ii. 167.
Windham Club, iv. 188.
Windmill Fields ; Hayraarket, i\. 207,

236.
Windmill Hill, Gray's Inn Lane. i!. 554.
Windmill, Old, Battersea, vi. 469.
Windmill Street, Haymarket, iv. 236.
Windmill Street ; Tottenham Court

Road ; windmill ; elm-trees,. ;v. 470,

472. 479-
W indow gardening, iii. 480,

636

OLD AND NEW LONDON.

Wine Office Court ; Goldsmith's resi-
dence, i. 119, 121; fig-tree, 122;
the " Cheshire Cheese," 119, 122;
G. A. Sala and W. Sawyer on the
court and the tavern, 122, 123.

Wing, Tycho, portrait of ; his almanac,
i. 230, 233.

Wiseman, Cardinal, iv. 423 ; v. 316,
221, 526 ; vi. 363.

Wise, Queen Anne's gardener, v. 153.

Wisliart, Messrs., tobacconists, iv. 233.

Witches, V. 56S.

" Wits' Coffee House, The," iv. 15S.

Woffington, Margaret ("Peg"); her
jealousy of George Anne Bellamy,
iii. 229, 241 ; iv. 329 ; vi. 460.

Wolcot, Dr. John ; " Peter Pind.ar,"
iii. 256 ; iv. 257 ; v. 351.

Wolfe, General, iii. 446; vi. 192, 212.

W'ollaston, Sir Johu ; Highgate Alms-
houses, v. 422.

Wolsey, Cardinal, i. 45, 78, 81, 242,
311; ii. 558; iii. 338, 339, 341,
362 ; V. 520 ; VI. 10, 493.

W'olves on Hampstead Heath, v. 454.

Wombwell's Menagerie, Bartholomew
Fair, ii. 349.

Women, Society for Promoting the
Employment of, iv. 46,.

Women's Chili, Berners, iv. 465.

Women's Suffrage, National Society for,
iv. 465.

Wood, .Sir Matthew, Lord Mayor ;
state barge, i. 413; iii. 309; iv. 344.

Woodbridge Street, Clerkenwell ; Red
Bull Theatre, ii. 337 ; Ned Ward,
his public-house and poems, 338.

Wood-choppers, Dockhead, vi. 117.

Woodfall and Kinder, printers ; the
" Letters of Junius," iii. 71.

Woodfall, Henry Sampson ; Public
Advertiser 3.nA " Letters of Junius,"
i. 140, 141 ; V. 92.

Woodfall, William ; Parliamentary re-
ports ; literary parties, i. 141.

Wood Green ; Printers' Almshouses,
V. 562.

"Woodman" Inn, Highgate, v. 395.

Wood ])avements, iv. 472.

Wood Street, Cheapside, i. 364 ; Cheap-
side cross ; plane-tree ; rooks' nests ;
St. Peter's in Chepe ; Wordsworth's
ballad ; St. Michael's Church ; St.
Mary Staining ; head of James IV.
of Scotland ; St. .Michael s Church ;
St. Alban's Church, 365 ; hour-
glass in pulpit ; the Compter, 368 ;
Silver Street ; Parish Clerks' Com-
pany ; gold refinery; the "Rose"
sponging-house ; " Miirc " Tavern,
369; Anabaptist rising, 370; Maiden
Lane ; Church of St. John Zacliary :
Church of St. Anne in the Willows ;
Haberd.islicrs' Hall, 371.

Woo<l .Street, Cripplegate, ii. 239.

Wood Street, Westminster, iv. 2.

Woodstock Street, iv. 343.

Woodward, Dr., expelled from the
Royal Society, i. 107.

Wool ; wool-staplers ; skin-wool; shear-
wool : Bermondscy Market, vi. 124.

Wool market, Leadenhall, ii. 1S9.
Wool, Old London Bridge built from

a tax on, vi. 8.
" Woolpack" Tavern, vi. 123.
Wnol-staplers, vi. 123.
Woolstonecraft, Mary. {See Godwin,

Mary Woolstonecraft. )
Worcester china, v. 106.
Worcester, Earl of, patron of Caxton,

ii. 20; beheaded, 21.
Worcester, Marquis of; residence at

Vauxhall, vi. 467.
Worde, Wynkyn de, iii. 490, 491.
Wordsworth, i. 364; iii. 299, 41S ; iv.

I73-
Workhouse Visiting Society, iv. 563.
Working Men's College, Blackfriars

Road, vi. 373.
Working Men's College, Great Ormond

Street, iv. 556, 560.
Workmen's Trains, Metropolitan Rail-
way, V. 232.
Works, Bo.ard of. (iV; Board of Works.)
"World, The," Club, Pall Mall, iv. 142.
" World Turned Upside Down,"

Tavern, vi. 251.
"World's End," Knightsbridge, v. 21.
" World's End "Tavern, Chelsea, v. 87.
Wormald, Thomas ; St. Bartholomew's

Hospital, ii. 363.
Woronzow, Count, iv. 442, 44S.
Worthington, Dr. Thomas, ii. 425.
Wotton, Lord; Belsize House, v. 494.
Woty's " Shrubs of Parnassus, ii. 2S0,

297.
" Wrekin " Tavern ; " The Rationals ;"

"The House of Uncommons," iii.

274-
Wren, Sir Christopher, i. 22, 30, 104,

172, 195, 248, 249, 250, 272, 365,

367, 371, 527, 528, 530. 53'. 550.

552, 5S5> 558. 565. 573 ; ii- 27, 32.

40, 52, 113, 171, 174, 366,503; lii.

12. 156, 1S6, 213, 224,322,330,412,

573 ; iv. 129, 167, 207, 236, 238,

255, 269, 544, 550 ; v. 70, 74, 142,

■55. 27s.
Wrestling ; Westmoreland and Cum-
berland Club, V. 293.
" Wright's" Coffee House, York Street;

Eoote, iii. 285.
Wyatt, Matthew, sculptor; Wellington

statue, V. 213.
Wyatt, Samuel, architect of the Trinity

House, ii. 116.
Wyatt, Sir Matthew Digby, iv. 574;

V. 34- .
Wyatt, Sir Henry, imprisoned in tlie

Tower, ii. 65.
Wyatt, Sir Thos., his rebellion, i. 25,

69,224; ii. 14,95; iii- 124,341, 540;

iv. 289; V. 17, 18; vi. ID, II, 20,

251.
Wyatvillc, Sir Jeffrey, iv. 343.
Wych Street, "Shakespeare's Head,"

Mark Lemon, iii. 34, 284.
Wycherley, ii. 543 ; iii. 256, 273, 274.
Wycliffe before a council in St. Paul's,

_ i. 23S.
Wykeham. William of, vi. 436.
Wyld's " Great Globe," iii. 170.

i Wyman and Co., printers; Benjamin

Franklin's press, iii. 214, 215.
Wyndham Road, Camberwell ; Flo. a

Gaidens, vi. 272.
Wyrgarde, .■\. van der, Butcher's Row,

iii. 10.
Wynn, Sir Watkin Williams, Bart., iv.

184.

V.

Varrell, William, iv. 202.

Vates, Mrs., actress, iv. 473.

Yates, Richard, actor, v. 47.

" Yearsmind," or anniversary, ii. 237.

Yeomen of the Guard, "Beefeaters,"

iii. 368 ; iv. 104.
"Yeoman of the Mouth;'' chief cook

to Queen Anne, iv. So.
"York and .Mbany"' Hotel, v. 296.
York, Duke of, i. So ; iv. 76, 120, 121,

170, 344-
York, Duke of; Royal Military Asylum,

Chelsea, v. 76.
York House, iii. 107 ; residence of

Archbishop Heath ; Lord Bacon ;

the water-gate and water-tower,

108.
York House, Battersea ; Archbishops

of York, vi. 471.
York Place, Baker Street, iv. 422 ;

Cardinal Wiseman ; E. H. Bailey,

sculptor, ib.
York Place, Whitehall, iii. 338 ;

Hubert de Burgh ; the Black

Friars ; De Grey ; Archbishop of

York; Wolsey, ib. ; Henry VHL,

339 ; Whitehall Place, 341.
York Road, King's Cross, v. 373.
York Street, Covent Garden, iii. 2S5 ;

Henry G. Bohn ; " Fleece " Inn ;

" Turk's Head ;" "Wright's" Coffee

House ; Foote, ih.
York Street, St. James's Square, iv. 203.
York Street, Westminster ; Petty

France, iv. 17, 21.
"Yorkshire Stingo" Tavern, iv. 410 ;

V. 256.
" Young Man's " Coffee House, iii. 334.

Z.

Zinzendorf, Count, i. too.

ZoarCliapcI, .Soutliwark, vi. 40.

Zoological Gardens, v. 281 J buildings ;
tunnel, 2S2 ; Zoological .Society;
Tower Menagerie ; Carnivora, ib. ;
lions; chimpanzees, 2S3 ; hippopot-
amus, 2S4 ; hippopotami born in the
Gardens; "Guy Fawkes,' 285;
giraffes purchased ; others born ;
reptile-house ; keeper killed by a
cobra ; bear-pit ; monkey-house ;
elephants ; seals, ib.; ]iariots, 286 ;
sale of animals : Prince of Wales's
animals from India, ib.

Zoological Society, iv. 317, 327.

Zouch, George, Lord, v. 521.

Zucchcro, painter, i. 521 ; ii. 33.

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